ACRL News Issue (B) of College & Research Libraries C&RL News ■ October 19981669 Detroit A desktop travelogue for the 9th National Conference by William P. Kane You can’t help your­ self—whenever you re­ m em ber that ACRL’s u p co m in g N atio n al Conference is going to be in Detroit, you start thinking, “Honolulu, why not Honolulu?” or “Paris, what’s wrong with Paris?” Come to think of it, though, it’s been a while since you’ve been to Detroit, and besides, didn’t you see the January 1998 C&RL News article describing Motown as a hip, hoppin’, happenin’ place? In addition, you recall more than one recent piece in the national media concerning Detroit’s revitaliza­ tion, and the Red Wings do seem to keep win­ ning those Stanley Cups, so you have to figure that the place is riding pretty high these days. But still, it’s always a good idea to try and get a closer look at a town before actu­ ally showing up, suitcase in hand, heading for the convention center. What you might do, you figure, is get an insider's perspec­ tive, see what the locals see, get a sneak peek at Detroit’s local (albeit gritty) charm. Like any tourist worth a right-click, you can find the standard weather forecasts and attrac­ tions for cities all over the world, from Akron to Zanzibar, in a hurry. You work in a library, have reasonably easy access to the Web, and you’re in the mood for some sleuthing, maybe in the guise of professional development. You want to take your time on your virtual travel­ ogue, looking for places that are a bit off-beat, but maybe likewise indicative of the city’s soul. So, you fire up your browser, load up the inkjet, crack your knuckles, and have at it. w w w .visitdetroit.com Standard but useful information to be had here, and not a bad starting point, particu­ larly if you’re interested in some quick and quirky facts and figures. For example, you never knew that Detroit has the largest an­ nual fireworks display in the world, or that it’s the only U.S. city that’s actually north of Canada. However, when you learn that De­ troit is the potato chip capital of the world, and that Detroit has more registered bowlers than anywhere else, you figure that may be more than you need to know. You order some free visitors’ guides and move on. w w w .d ia.org Now you’re getting somewhere. You’d heard that Detroit has the fifth largest fine arts mu­ seum in the United States, and their Web site includes lots of good stuff about upcom­ ing exhibits, permanent collections, and such, but also, and most interestingly, a waycool database of some 1,000 plus digital images o f artworks from the collections that you can search, browse, view, and obtain. You knew that museums would start acting like librar­ ies some day. Meanwhile, you’re happy to realize that the museum’s right up the street from the convention center, because you’d love to see that massive Diego Rivera fresco “Detroit Industry” firsthand, as it’s evocative o f a place with a pulse. pewabic.com More artsy-craftsy stuff here, further dispel­ ling the notion of Detroit as purely shot-and- About the author William P. Kanecochairs ACRL's National Conference Local Arrangements Subœmmittee and is regional sales manager for Blackwell'sBookSen/ices,e-mail:william.kane@blackwell.com http://www.visitdetroit.com http://www.dia.org mailto:william.kane@blackwell.com 670 / C&RL News ■ October 1998 Built in 1928 in the tradition of great movie pa magnificent theater was beautifully restored in offers the finest in entertainment from concerts an to magicians and ice shows. beer blue collar. Pewabic pottery, founded during the Arts and Crafts Movement, is rooted in tradition and elegance. You’re quite happy to see that there are public installa­ tions throughout the city, and, if you could afford it, you’d plaster the tiles throughout your house. Maybe a small tile as a souvenir is in order. w w w .heidelberg.org Speaking of art, you can hardly even believe the Heidelberg Project. Artist Tyree Guyton has spent the past 12 years collecting and displaying found objects d ’artes (some might say “garbage”) onto a city street’s landscape. House after some otherwise maybe aban­ doned house on a block of Heidelberg Street is festooned with thousands, maybe millions of big and bright polka dots, punctuated by oddball and somehow sad assortments of life’s remnants— baby dolls and old purses and board games and shopping carts and lawn mowers— all covered by those big, bright polka dots. The street is lined with painted, polka dotted shoes and old polka dotted vacuum cleaners. A tall polka dotted tree has old polka dotted telephones nailed all the way up its polka dotted trunk, with polka dotted suitcases sprouting from polka dotted branches like polka dotted leaves. Polka dotted mannequins sit on polka dot­ ted porches smiling out at polka dotted car hoods; polka dotted hubcaps adorn the polka dotted sidewalks lining the polka dotted lawns. You get the feeling the artist has a thing for polka dots. Go figure. Even if you don’t, you can tell it’s an eye-popping, jaw- opening, get-out-of-your-car- and-stare, one-of-a-kind city block, and probably worth the quick side trip (following the d o w n lo a d a b le m ap s) w hen you’re in town. You hope that it’s still there com e April, as you’ve read that the City Coun­ cil (no doubt prompted by some polka dot-weary neighbors) is laces, this negotiating with the now world- 1988 and renown artist for the project’s re­ d musicals location. In any case, you can’t remember the last time you’ve seen such a real-life illustration of how discard and decay can somehow end up colorful and poignant and ultimately up­ beat. w w w .h fm gv.o rg On the other side of town, but just a click away, you find another (perhaps more tradi­ tional) showcase of ideas: the Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village. This unique and huge indoor/outdoor complex illustrates innovations and ingenuity, and is one of the major tourist attractions in southeast Michi­ gan. The kind of a place you can learn, study, inquire, or just take a peaceful walk back through the American centuries. Like seeing the Empire State Building when you’re in New York City, or the Grand Canyon when you’re in Arizona, you know you have to see it when you’re in Detroit, if just so you can check it off your must-see list. Ed. note: Conference-goers will have the museum to themselves on Saturday night for an ACRL party. w w w .fordhouse.com www.um d.um ich.edu/fairlane Speaking of Henry Ford, you’re starting to get the impression that the guy had an im­ pact on this town: there’s the museum, the hospital, the college, the high schools and, oh yeah, the auto company. You can’t help thinking that his and his son’s estates would be worth walking around, to witness first­ hand the physical manifestation of the wealth of one family, and, by extension, the rewards http://www.heidelberg.org http://www.hfmgv.org http://www.fordhouse.com http://www.umd.umich.edu/fairlane C&RL News ■ October 1998 / 671 of the work of an entire city, as it is handed down from one generation to the next. The estates are quite different from each other and at opposite ends of the city, but they’re both beautifully preserved architectural land­ marks to icons of industry. bhere.com/ruins In stark contrast, you stumble across this site, dedicated to “The Fabulous Ruins o f Detroit,” equating some abandoned industrial and commercial and residential buildings in De­ troit to the ancient ruins of Rome and Ath­ ens. You’re not sure what to make of that juxtaposition, but the photographs and de­ scriptions of the old, once-proud buildings are indeed haunting, and you’re starting to get the idea that Detroit’s cityscape is an in­ teresting mix of the really new and the pretty old. You’re not sure if you’d be embarrassed by the lack of preservation efforts, or proud of the moxy it takes to cut your losses and start anew. In any case, Detroit seems like a big place that’s enjoyed a lot of room to spread out and keep growing, and sometimes, obviously, it doesn’t look back. w w w.foxsearchlight.com /polish/ But lots of people do look back, and cap­ ture the spirit of Detroit on paper and on film. Elmore Leonard is a Detroit native, and keeps churning out those novels punctuated by somehow witty but dumb-guy dialogue, which you wonder how the novelist can cap­ ture seeing as how he lives in the tonier part of town. Meanwhile, it might be your imagination, but it seems like Hollywood has caught on lately: “Out of Sight” (based on an Elmore Leonard novel), “Grosse Pointe B lan k ,” “Hoffa,” and “True Romance” are just a few of the flicks set and filmed in Detroit. Indeed, you’re sorry you missed “The Polish Wed­ ding” when it came out in theaters last sum­ mer, as you’re a big Clare Danes fan to begin with, and you’ve learned that it was filmed in the Detroit enclave of Hamtramck. Didn’t some trendy magazine recently vote Ham-town as one of the “most trendy” cities in the United States? You’re not sure what that even means if it’s true, but you get a kick out of the idea of the leather-clad trendoids on their way home after a long night at the hip after-hours clubs and looking for latte passing the old ladies with babushkas on their morning kielbasa run. You’re also getting a hankering for one of Hamtramck’s famous p aczki (pronounced “poonch-key”, and look­ ing not unlike a big fat jelly donut), found everywhere on Fat Tuesday (the day before Ash Wednesday). All this http’ing is starting to make you hungry. m etrotim es.com Restaurants, you’re interested in restaurants. Every city it seems has its weekly arts and entertainment rag, but Detroit’s Metro Times is pretty sophisticated, with full-feature ar­ ticles and investigative reporting that verge on real journalism, and you like its Web ver­ sion for the online calendar of events— there’s lots going on in the bars, in the con­ cert halls, in the sports arenas, and, yup, in the restaurants. The dining reviews here are up-to-date and loaded with attitude, and you can even sort by price or cuisine or location. You’re glad you like to experiment while din­ ing out, because Detroit’s evidently got a bit o f everything— from Ethiopian to Greek to Middle Eastern to Irish to big, old midwest steakhouses. Plus, the desserts tend to go beyond the merely huge and venture into the enormous —which is a good thing, because you like dessert. In general, though, whether you’re interested in a swank establishment with an extensive wine list, or a lunch counter slinging cheeseburgers, you can rely on the Metro Times to give you a pretty good idea o f what to expect, and for that alone you’d give it a rating of four forks. All right, you’ve seen enough; you’ll save the other tempting Web sites— like those for the Museum of African American History, De­ troit Science Center, Detroit Public Library, Holocaust Memorial Center, Center for Cre­ ative Studies, Cranbrook Institute, etc.— for some realtime sightseeing once you get to the Motor City. Sure, Detroit’s not Disneyland, but it’s clearly cosmopolitan and comfortable, and just different enough to keep things inter­ esting: it’s got that big-city pace, loaded with the usual as well as some unusual things to do and places to see, and filled with friendly folks who are rightfully proud to show off their town. You can’t wait. ■ http://www.foxsearchlight.com/polish/ C&RL News ■ October 1998 / 675