PLAIN and FULL INSTRUCTIONS To raise all sorts of FRUIT-TREES That prosper in ENGLAND; In that Method and Order, that every thing must be done in, to give all the advantage, may be, to every Tree as it is rising from its Seed, till it come to its full growth.  
TOGETHER With all necessary directions about those several ways of making Plantations, either of Wall-Fruit, or Dwarf-trees in Gardens, or large Standard-trees in Orchards or Fields.  
TOUCHING Which last, because it's so vast an Improvement of Land, all the profitable and practical ways are here directed to with all exactness.  
AND In the last place the best directions are given for making liquors of the several sorts of Fruit.  
By T. LANGFORD, Gent.  
LONDON, Printed by J.M. for Rich. Chiswel at the Rose and Crown in St Paul's Churchyard, 1681.   

TO THE READER.  
I Would not hinder any man so long from the Book itself, as he must be in the reading this Preface, if I had nothing to say for it, but that I would not be taken notice of to break an old Custom, or that I would pre-engage the Readers favour, of which I think there will be no need: Yet I would not have him come with prejudice, and therefore this little stop is given him at setting out.  
If the obscurity of the Author shall frighten any Man, that takes this Book up in his hands, I scarce look he should read over the Title before be reject it; but then he must be content to be told the truth, that he doth not do well in it, because he doth he knows not what, and may do himself a greater discourtesy than he is ware.  
I think there are few Books of this kind extant, and of note, but I have read them, and been the better for it, and named some of them sometimes in what follows, and will not detract from them any further, than to say, I see no reason why for any of them, or all of them together, this may not be acceptable, but much reason why it should; and that's the chief thing I desire the Reader may understand.  
I am not so fond conceited of what I have here done, as to think there may not be some that may know as much as is here said of Planting without my telling them; but they must then know more than is to be found in. Books already; and I fancy too, some (even amongst them) may meet with some things here of use, that they may never have taken notice of any where else, though the tract be calculated chief for young beginners, and such as are unperfect.  
I should not mention the convenience of the smallness of the Volume, being thereby the more cheap and profitable, and so of readier use; but that it may be noted, that some of the most excellent Books of this kind are in folio, and therefore both dear and tedious: There are others indeed not much bigger than this, but the one half of them, and sometimes more, rather an hindrance than a furtherance to a man that would set himself to work by them; for the Rules and Directions he is then to go by, are almost lost and smothered among Moral, Mystical, and Philosophical Discourses, Quotations, and sometimes Whimsies, Crotchets, and Legendary Tales, so that he that inquires into them finds himself in a wood before ever he hath raised one Tree: And yet it seems most of these Writers could not for their hearts forbear, (for some opinion of fineness and gaiety in them) but out they must come; and they did not amiss, if they intended their Books only for the delight of reading; but certainly unadvisedly, if they designed them only for use.  
I have therefore pruned off all such superfluous branches, and here shown the plain Dunstable way to the propagating of all manner of Fruit-trees, without leading the learner through bushes, and a wilderness of Words, to tyre and lose himself with a little diversion.  
I have been long acquainted with raising Fruit-trees, and I think have left out nothing conducible to this end, that is any where else to be met with, and have added much more, and yet nothing but what is necessary to carry on this Art further, if not fully to perfection; having had it all along in my design, to guide the Planter in every the most minute particular, and in that order, that if he should have some old experienced. Master always at his Elbow when any thing is to be done, he could not do it better, and be less at a loss.  
And I verily believe, nothing hath hindered Planting more among us than this, That Books are no more curious to acquaint People in every circumstance that is needful to a due conduct of this business; and therefore for want of some flight observations in appearance, but of great consequence in reality, some very much disposed this way, meeting with unexpected and frequent disappointments, have knocked off before they have well begun, and then fallen to thinking that the vast improvement of Land by Planting, is but such a kind of talk, as that of the Philosopher's Stone, goodly Words but no Wool.  
The manner of expression I have used is plain, I have abstained carefully from all hard words, as judging it to much more purpose to be understood by a Ploughman, than commended by a Scholar.  
And so I have said what I here designed, and shall say no more, but that if this be not enough to dispose him that knows of it, to read this Book, it will be to as little purpose to say ten times more. Farewell.  
T. L.   

Mr Chiswel,  
I Have read the Treatise of Fruit-trees, etc. which you lately put into my hand, and find the entire Mystery so generously discovered from its very Rudiments, to its full perfection; that (with the ingenious and experienced Author) as I know of nothing extant which exceeds it, so nor do I of any thing which needs be added to it. The Gentleman will by this free communication much oblige the whole Nation, and therefore needs not the suffrage of  
Your humble Servant, J. EVELYN.   

THE CONTENTS.  

The INTRODUCTION.  
Showing the reason why a Planter should have a Nursery of his own.   

CHAP. I. Of the Seminary.  
Sect. 1. How the ground is to be ordered for the Seminary.  
Sect. 2. How Stones are to be set.  
Sect. 3. Of setting Nuts.  
Sect. 4. How the sowing of Seeds is to be ordered.  
Sect. 5. How to secure what's set or sown from prejudice.  
Sect. 6. How to order these Plants when they are come up.  
Sect. 7. What kind of Stones and Seeds are to be set and sown to make proper Stocks for all kind of Fruit.  
Sect. 8. Other ways of raising Stocks.   

CHAP. II. Observations concerning the raising of Stocks in the Seminary or elsewhere.  
Sect. 1. Seeds and Stones produce not Trees that without graffing, etc. will bear the same Fruit as that out of which they were taken.  
Sect. 2. Concerning Stocks for Peaches, Apricocks, Nectarines, and Plums.  
Sect. 3. Of Stocks for Cherry-trees.  
Sect. 4. The Cyens that is graffed, etc. must have some agreement in nature with the Stock.  
Sect. 5. Stocks may contribute something to the bettering of the Fruit.  
Sect. 6. That Crab-kernels yield best Stocks for Orchards and Fields, yet Apple-kernels are of special use.  
Sect. 7. A Discourse of the sympathy betwixt the pith of a Tree and the kernels of its Fruits.   

CHAP. III. Of Transplanting the Seedlings.  
Sect. 1. Of what growth the Seedlings must be before they are removed into the Nursery, and how the soil for these must be ordered.  
Sect. 2. In what Order and Manner they are to be set at this removal, and how to be ordered.  
Sect. 3. Some difference to be observed about Stocks to be set in Fields, and how all those young Stocks are to be dressed up.   

CHAP. IU. Of Inoculating.  
Sect. 1. The way of Inoculating described.  
Sect. 2. Of the different ways of Inoculating.   

CHAP. V Observations concerning Inoculating.  
Sect. 1. Several necessary things to be observed about Inoculating.  
Sect. 2. How high above ground the Stocks are to be Inoculated.  
Sect. 3. Of buds that are to be inoculated, and when Inoculation is to be used rather than Graffing.  
Sect. 4. Reasons why Inoculating is to be preferred before Graffing, where it may be used.  
Sect. 5. What time of the day is best for Inoculating.   

CHAP. VI Of the several ways of Graffing.  
Sect. 1. Of Slicing or Packing.  
Sect. 2. Of Graffing in the bark, and the reason why these two are the best ways of graffing.  
Sect. 3. Of Whip-graffing.  
Sect. 4. Of Side-graffing.  
Sect. 5. Of Graffing in the Cleft.  
Sect. 6. Of Graffing by Approach.   

CHAP. VII. Observations concerning Graffing.  
Sect. 1. What bigness Stocks are to be of at Graffing.  
Sect. 2. About the choice of Cyens, or Graffs.  
Sect. 3. Of the time of Graffing.  
Sect. 4. Of cutting of Graffs, and ordering them before graffing.  
Sect. 5. About the joint in a Graff or Cyen, and how high Stocks are to be graffed above ground.  
Sect. 6. What course may be taken to know readily of what kind every Tree is.   

CHAP. VIII. Of Planting Wall-fruit.  
Sect. 1. The best time to remove young Trees after graffing and inoculating.  
Sect. 2. Of preparing the ground for Wall-fruit, and what distance is to be observed in setting such Trees.  
Sect. 3. How to temper the Soil for them, and to settle their roots in the holes they are to be set in.  
Sect. 4. How to order a Tree in spreading it upon a Wall.  
Sect. 5. The roots are sometimes to be bared, and the soil about them recruited.  
Sect. 6. How the soil for these, or other Trees is to be amended.  
Sect. 7. How to renew old Trees.  
Sect. 8. Directions what Walls are proper for each kind of Fruit.  
Sect. 9 Instructions about making the Wall.   

CHAP. IX. Concerning Dwarf-trees.  
Sect. 1. The advantage of Dwarf-trees.  
Sect. 2. Stocks for Dwarf-Pear-Trees.  
Sect. 3. What Stocks are best for Dwarf-Apple-trees.  
Sect. 4. What things are to be observed in getting and ordering Cuttings that are to be set for Stocks.  
Sect. 5. How they may be helped to roots by Circumposition.  
Sect. 6. Other ways to raise Stocks for Dwarf-trees.  
Sect. 7. Of raising them of Suckers.  
Sect. 8. How to raise Stocks for Cherries and Plums.  
Sect. 9 How to order the heads of Dwarf-trees.  
Sect. 10. Codling-hedges and Trees may be raised from the Cuttings only of such Trees whose Cuttings will grow.  
Sect. 10. coddlings and Moils may be graffed on Crabstocks.   

CHAP. X. Of Planting an Orchard.  
Sect. 1. How to choose ground for an Orchard.  
Sect. 2. Directions how to qualify that ground when it is not of itself (as divers ways it may not be) fit for Planting.  
Sect. 3. How an uneven ground is to be ordered in Planting.  
Sect. 4. The time and manner of ordering Trees in planting an Orchard.  
Sect. 5. How long they may remain in the Nursery after Graffing before they are transplanted.  
Sect. 6. Of the distance these Trees ought to be set at one from another.  
Sect. 7. Whether old Trees or young are fit to be transplanted, and how to order old ones at such a time.  
Sect. 8. What order these Trees are to be set in.  
Sect. 9 Concerning the fence for an Orchard.  
Sect. 10. Concerning Pruning of Orchard-trees.  
Sect. 11. The soil about their roots must ever after be kept in good heart.   

CHAP. XI. Of Planting in Fields.  
Sect. 1. Exceptions against Planting in Fields answered.  
Sect. 2. Reasons to show its profitable to plant Pear-trees in Fields.  
Sect. 3. Seven ways, The first, By planting in whole Fields.  
Sect. 4. A second way of planting in Fields, where an account is given how such Trees may best be fenced.  
Sect. 5. The Third, By doing it near Hedges.  
Sect. 5. The Advantages.  
Sect. 5. The Distance.  
Sect. 5. Where not good.  
Sect. 6. The Fourth, In Hedges.  
Sect. 7. The Fifth, By Cuttings.  
Sect. 7. Of choice, and ordering them for that purpose.  
Sect. 8. The Sixth, By long Crab-stocks.  
Sect. 8. Advantage.  
Sect. 8. Disadvantages.  
Sect. 9 The Seventh, By Graffing old Crabtrees.  
Sect. 9 Directions therein.  
Sect. 9 Of doing it in the Cleft or Bark, with some difference from graffing small Stocks in the bark.  
Sect. 9 Directions to prevent the breaking out of the Cyens;  
Sect. 9 And for pruning the bodies.   

CHAP. XII. Of the Annoyances about Fruit-trees.  
Sect. 1. To prevent Moss and Canker, etc.  
Sect. 2. To preserve Trees from Hares, or Rabbits.  
Sect. 3. Against Aunts, or Pismires.  
Sect. 4. Of Moles, Water-rats, Snakes, and Emmets or Askers.  
Sect. 5. To prevent Blasting, Cuterpillers, Snails, etc.   

CHAP. XIII. Some particulars about raising some kinds of Fruit-trees.  
Sect. 1. Directions about planting Vines.  
Sect. 2. Of the Soil and manner of propagating them and renewing old Vines.  
Sect. 3. Of Pruning them.  
Sect. 4. Concerning Vineyards.  
Sect. 5. Of planting Figtrees.  
Sect. 6. Of raising Quince-trees.  
Sect. 7. Of propagating the Medlar and Service-tree.  
Sect. 8. Of Walnut-trees.  
Sect. 9 Of raising Goosberries, Currants, Barberries, and Raspberries.   

CHAP. XIV. Of the several kinds of Fruits.  
Sect. 1. That it's convenient to have variety of Fruit.  
Sect. 2. Of several sorts of Peaches.  
Sect. 3. Of Nectarines.  
Sect. 4. Of Apricocks.  
Sect. 5. Of Plums.  
Sect. 6. Of Cherries.  
Sect. 7. Of Grapes.  
Sect. 8. Of Pears.  
Sect. 9 Of Apples.  
Sect. 10. Of Quinces.  
Sect. 11. Of Walnuts, Chestnuts, Filbeards, etc.  
Sect. 12. Of Figs, Medlars, and Services.  
Sect. 13. Of Mulberries, Goosberries, Currants, Raspberries and Barberries.   

CHAP. XV. Of gathering Fruit, and making several sorts of liquors.  
Sect. 1. Of gathering Fruit and ordering them in keeping.  
Sect. 2. Of a Ladder.  
Sect. 3. Of a Mill.  
Sect. 4. Of Cider.  
Sect. 5. Of Perry.  
Sect. 6. Of Rasberry Wine.  
Sect. 7. Of Curran Wine.  
Sect. 8. Of Goosberry Wine.  
Sect. 9 Another way to make any of the three last sorts of Wine, and Cherry.  
Sect. 10. Cherry and Goosberry Brandy.  
Sect. 10. The Conclusion.    

THE INTRODUCTION.  
HAving undertaken in this Book to publish all necessary Directions concerning Planting, the first step I am to take, (to proceed in due order) is to give instructions about Seminaries, and Nurseries, wherein young Plants are to be raised and cherished in their Infancy.  
And because Men are generally (through ignorance) so indifferent whether they have these of their own or no; because for a little money they can have Plants from others ready brought up to their hands; therefore I shall here in the first place present such with reasons, that I suppose cannot but make them of the same mind, that I am myself, That it's far better to have them of their own bringing up, and to have Seminaries and Nurseries of their own for this purpose.  
1. Because this way a Man shall be sure to meet with no failure, either in the kind or goodness of his Trees, and Fruit; in both which he shall be often disappointed, if he have his Trees upon trust from others, who make a Trade of selling them, and are therefore many times incurious in raising them, and instead of the right kind (if they can get any thing by it) will not stick to put him off with another.  
2. The trouble and expense of buying young Plants, and getting them home, (many times from places very remote) and the prejudice they often receive in the carriage will be wholly prevented.  
3. This way a man shall with almost the same labour and charge, both furnish himself sufficiently, and have so many more as to defray the charge he may be at about it, if he will sell them, or to gratify his Friends if he had rather bestow them.  
4. He will this way be provided with Stocks for Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, and all choice Wall-fruit raised from Kernels and Stones of Fruit: which are incomparably better than Stocks procured any other way.  
The means some use to furnish themselves with Stocks for Appletrees is, by getting young Crabtrees out of Hedges, rough Grounds and Woods; and with Stocks for Pears, Plums, and Cherries by Suckers springing from the Roots of old Trees of those kinds; but there is much to be said against both courses.  
Against using those Crabtrees got out of Woods, etc. there lie these Objections.  
1. The workmen in getting them break some, and hurt others of the principal Roots; and it sometimes falls out that they have been cut down, and sprung up again out of the remaining stump, or otherwise hurt, which though not easily discerned because skinned over, yet will be a prejudice to them for ever.  
2. Many of the Stocks so got out of Woods, and Hedges, have for want of room, and by reason of shades, and the dropping of other trees about them, been checked and baffled in their growth, and so become crooked, scabby, ill grown, rough, and unkindly, and never like to make good Trees.  
3. Some that furnish themselves this way with Stocks, choose such as are largest, and those having for the most part thick and hard bark, and old roots, come on but slowly when they are removed to make Appletrees.  
4. If these Stocks be not graffed very low (and if they are, a years growth or two will be lost) they will put forth branches of their own every year in such abundance that without constant pruning of them off, the graffs will be in danger of being starved.  
5. A better advantage may be made of Crabtrees in Hedg-rows and rough grounds, by graffing them where they are, (as you shall be hereafter directed) where they will thrive better.  
There is but one scruple, (that I can foresee) that can here be started; and that is, that a man cannot be furnished with Trees of a good largeness to bear so soon by stocks raised by Kernels and Stones, as by either those gotten out of Woods, etc. or those raised by Suckers, that may be of several years' growth before they are made use of.  
To this I answer, That if at the same time that you get Crab-tree-stocks, (of six or seven years' growth) out of the Wood, or Suckers, and set them in order to be graffed, you sow Kernels and Stones, the Stocks and Suckers you so graft, for six or eight years may continue larger and bigger than the Trees that come of Kernels and Stones; but yet these lesser Trees shall so get ground of the other, that by the tenth or twelfth year they shall have overtaken them.  
And as to the way of raising Stocks for Pears, Plums, and Cherries by suckers, it is to be noted, that Trees so raised will be ever apt to cast up such Suckers themselves; and such as do, are seldom found to be good bearing Trees, by reason they expend their Sap so much that way.  
Nevertheless they may be useful for Wall-fruit and Dwarf-trees, as you will see hereafter in a peculiar Chapter.  
And lastly against both these ways of furnishing a man's self with the aforementioned Stocks there is this to be said, That a man shall very difficultly store himself with as many as he may desire, and many of them will prove bad and miscarry, whereas from Kernels it's almost the same labour to have thousands as hundreds, and such as will almost all of them be sit for use.  
Having thus given reasons from certain experience, why a Planter ought to have a Nursery and Seminary of his own, I shall proceed to direct how to order them, and thence take my first rise, from whence the Planter is to take his.  

CHAP. I. Of the Seminary.  


Of ordering the Ground.  SECT. 1.  
Against the beginning of October prepare Ground by digging and cleansing it from weeds and roots, making the mould very fine, choose not a wet or very stiff Clay-land, nor over rich with Dung, but such as being of itself good, you may make better only with a little mixture of very rotten dung, let it be fenced from the cold, as well as you can, so that it be free from shade, and droppings of Trees.   


Of sitting Stones.  Sect. 2.  
When you set Stones, (which if they be Stones of Fruit soon ripe, you must keep in sand till October) do it by a Line, pricking holes about a hands breadth distance one from another, and then put in the Stones, about three inches deep with the sharp end uppermost; when one row is finished remove your Line a foot further, and set another row in the same manner; but let your third row be about two foot distant from the second, that you may have liberty to go betwixt every two rows to weed, etc. and so proceed to set as many as you have a mind; possibly some of these Stones may not come up till the second spring after they are set, and may not deceive you if you then expect them.   


Of setting Nuts.  Sect. 3.  
After the same manner you are to set all kind of Nuts: but because it's necessary that your young Walnut-trees and Chestnut-trees should grow longer in your Seed-plot than Stone-fruit, before they will be fit to be removed to the place they are to spend their lives in, you must set them at much further distance, that they may have more room to grow big without hurting one another.   


Of sowing Seeds.  Sect. 4.  
To raise Stocks from Seeds or Kernels of Apples, or Crabs, (each of which sorts are to be sowed by themselves) you must thus go to work.  
When either you, or any Neighbour hath made Cider, Verjuice, or Perry, take the Must (or as some call it the Pouz) which is the substance of the Fruit after the juice is pressed out, the same day or the next day after, before it heats, and with a riddle sift out the Seeds on a clean floor or cloth, and these you must sow (as soon as you can conveniently) upon beds of very fine Forth, very thick, for some being bruised in the grinding, or pounding the Fruit, and others, not being ripe, many never come up; then sift mould upon them about two finger's breadth in thickness: this way is much better than to sow the Seeds with the Must or Pouz together, (as some do) because the Must will heat them, and many of the Seeds will putrify, and others will not be able to root, or shoot up, because they are so imprisoned in that dry and tough stuff clinging about them.  
The beds of Earth you sow them on may be made about two foot in breadth, with a good distance between the beds, that you may the better come at to weed them, and draw them up as you have occasion.   


Of securing them from prejudice.  Sect. 5.  
To keep Fowls or Birds from scraping them up, lay some white-thorn on the beds till the Ground be well settled. Some cover the beds with Fearn or Straw to keep them warm in the Winter, which may not do amiss; but than it ought to be taken off when the Spring approacheth.  
If Moles or Mice get in, (which you will discover easily, (the Mice leaving shells of the Seeds on the top of the beds) they must be destroyed. For Mice therefore lay Poison, or Oatmeal mixed with pounded Glass, and Butter, and cast bits of it upon the beds: or set traps for the Mice and Moles, better known than described.   


Ordering Plants.  Sect. 6.  
The next spring you will see these Stones and Seeds come up plentifully; first the dissimilar leaves, almost of the shape of the Kernel split in two, and from betwixt them will the stem put forth; keep them clean from weeds all the year, which must be plucked up while they are young, lest if they get root, in drawing them up you root up the seedlings with them.  
These weeds and such as are plucked up any where else, thrown up into a heap will rot, and become very good Manure, but this should be before they are seeded, for then the Manure made of them will be apt to make the ground it is cast upon more subject to weeds.  
If a dry time happen, you may sometimes in the Summer water the beds.   


The proper Seeds for Stocks.  Sect. 7.  
To furnish yourself with a competent variety of Stocks for the several sorts of Fruit-trees, your Seminary is to be stored with these following; such as come of Peach-stones, Plum-stones, Cherry-stones, Apple-kernels, Crab-kernels, and Pear-kernels; and from Nuts you raise your Nut-trees.  
Peach-stones are to yield you Stocks for Peaches and Nectarines; Plum-stones, Stocks for Peaches, Nectarines, Apricocks, and Plums; Cherry-stones, Stocks for Cherries; Seeds of Apples and Crabs produce Stocks for Appletrees; and lastly the Seeds of Pears yield Stocks for Pear-trees.   


Other ways to raise Stocks.  Sect. 8.  
There are likewise some other ways to be furnished with Stocks, and which you shall find hereafter are in some cases to be made use of, that is, for Pears, Plums, and Cherries by Suckers springing out of the roots of Trees of the same kind, and for several sorts of Apples and Pears by Cuttings of Appletrees and Quince-trees: which I here intimate, because Stocks thus raised are sometimes brought up in Nurseries; but the full directions about them are given in the Chapter of Dwarf-trees.  
Mr. Evelyn saith, the ends of roots that are cut off from young trees, taken up to be Transplanted, and set in beds of good Earth, will shoot forth tops, and become good Stocks. Such may serve for Dwarf-trees, or for Walls.  
And I have heard an Ingenious person speak of inoculating Buds on the small roots of great trees that grow at furthest distance from the bodies, and after a years growth to cut off the root, about a foot in length, with the new shoot growing upon it, and Transplant it; because a Tree will be sooner raised thus than from a Seed or Stone.  
In case of an exigent for a Stock or two, this way may be practised, but it would be found too troublesome for general use.    

CHAP. II. Observations concerning the raising of Stocks in the Seminary, or elsewhere.  


Seeds produce not their own Fruit.  SECT. 1.  
Seeds or Stones of Fruits gathered from Trees that have been graffed or inoculated on Stocks of different kinds from the Cyens, produce of themselves, (not being graffed or inoculated) not the same Fruit as that was from whence the Seed or Stone came, but a different, and most commonly a worse.  
The Stones of Peaches produce Trees that will bear Peaches, sometimes better than the Peaches out of which the Stones were taken, although those Peaches grew upon a Tree that was inoculated on a Plum: And therefore some Gardiner's by setting many Stones of the Newington Peach, have found some among the Trees come up from them, to bear a fruit rather improved than worse; and by giving it a new Name, and inoculating from it, have made good gain of it. But this is not a practice for every private person; because Peach-trees so raised, will be longer before they bear fruit, than those which are inoculated; and because he must run the hazard of filling great part of his wall with these Peach-trees thus raised from Stones, and not one it may be in many prove any thing extraordinary, and the rest of no use unless for Stocks, after he hath waited several years to see what Fruit they will bear.   


Stocks for Apricocks, Nectarines, and Plums.  Sect. 2.  
It is controverted amongst men of this Profession, whether Stocks from Peach-stones are best to inoculate Peaches upon: both sides have their peculiar advantages, which I shall here set down, and leave every man to his choice.  
Stocks from Peach-stones will be sooner ready to inoculate, and the buds will take very sure, that are inoculated into them; but they must be carefully and tenderly used in the removal, and must not be expected to make long lasting Trees.  
Stocks from Plum-stones and budded with a Peach will make a more firm and lasting Peach-tree; and such as will bear Fruit well.  
Therefore rather raise Stocks for Peaches, Nectarines, Apricocks, and Plums from Stones of the Wheat-plum, which is a White-plum ripe in August (if you can have them,) or in want of them from the Stones of the White-pear-plum, which is generally commended and used, or of other good White-plum, whose Tree puts forth large shoots or branches. If you are not sufficiently furnished with Stones of these White-plums, you may for Apricocks and Plums raise Stocks from the Stones of the Muscle-plum, the Black-pear-plum, Primordian, or any other Black or Red-plum of free growth.  
And it's a way much commended, first to inoculate an Apricock very low on such Plum-stocks, and then after a years growth, inoculate a Peach or a Nectarine on it; only this way there will be two years' loss of time, and take notice that the Red-Roman-Nectarine will hardly take on a Plum-stock any other way.  
The Suckers likewise from the roots of the Wheat-plum before mentioned make excellent Stocks for the Fruit spoken of in this Section.   


Cherry Stocks.  Sect. 3.  
Stocks for Cherry-trees are raised from Cherry-stones, set or sowed, or young wild Cherry-trees got out of Woods, etc. or Suckers from the common harsh red Cherry. The wild Stocks make large handsome Standard-trees, but though graffed with a good kind, do not bear Fruit so plentifully as the Suckers of the red being graffed do, which last also are fittest to graft Cherries on for Wall or Dwarf-trees being of much smaller growth than those of the wild kind are.   


Cyen and Stock must agree.  Sect. 4.  
It's plain all Stocks and Cyens (that prosper when they are joined together) are congenerous, and related in some degree of affinity; I have tried a Nectarine on a Horse-plum and it failed; on the very same Stock an Apricock grew very fast. I have also inoculated an Apricock on a course Black-plum (known in some Countries by the name of the Lammas-plum) and it took well, and bore a good Fruit. I have inoculated Pears upon a Hawthorn or White-thorn, and it hath taken very well, but the growth was so small, it's not worth the practice. A Pear graffed on a Wick●y-berry-tree grew very well, but on the Hazel or Nut-tree it failed. I have tried the inoculating buds of Walnut-trees upon Ash-trees to hasten the raising Trees, but not one of many (that I tried) came to any thing. Mr. Evelyn reports it from one, that said, he had it to show, that a white Apple graffed upon an Elm did grow and bear a red Apple.  
Cherries graffed on Plum-trees will not prosper long, nor Plums on Cherries; neither do Apples on Pears, nor Pears upon Apples.   


Stocks may meliorate the Fruit.  Sect. 5.  
It is an Assertion of my Lord Bacon in his Natural History, cent. 5. Exper. 452. That Graffing doth meliorate Fruit; and I have heard that the Golden-renating was the Fruit of a Cyens of an Appletree graffed by his direction on an Appletree, and thence had its name as being in a manner born again.  
But mere Graffing doth not better the Fruit at all, as if you graft a Cyen upon the same Tree you took it from, the Fruit will be the same, without any the least alteration from what the Tree bore before it was so graffed.  
But it is a harder question to resolve, if you graft a Cyen on a Stock differing from it in kind, whether the Fruit of this new Tree will be any thing better than the Fruit of the Tree from whence the Cyens was taken?  
This is by many held in the negative; because (say they) the Stock only conveys food and nourishment to the Cyens, and then when the Cyen hath received it, it converts it perfectly into its own Nature; so that the Fruit which this Cyens shall bear, must be the very same that the Tree bore from which the Cyens was taken, and neither better nor worse. But that the Cyen doth thus perfectly transmute the juice it receives from the Stock into its own kind is not proved, neither (as I verily believe) ever will; and it may therefore prove for all that's said to the contrary, that the Fruit may participate something of the Nature of the Stock, and may so far be made by it either better or worse; for such a union as that of the Stock and the Graff in natural bodies is hardly conceivable without some commixture of their Natures, and there are some reasons from Experience that make this probable, as  
1. The Seeds of a graffed Tree take much after the Stock, and it is hard to conceive the Kernel should participate so much of the Stock, and the Fruit be nothing influenced by it.  
2. Those that produce the best Fruit by their Stones or Seeds, yet vary from the Fruit the seed or stone was taken out of, which in all likelihood proceeds from the mixture of the quality of the Stock and Cyen in that Tree the Stone came from.  
3. It's manifest that amongst Trees of one kind, in the same Orchard, you shall have some one of them bear better Fruit than any of the rest sometimes; and I know not what to impute this excellency to more probably, than that the Stocks they were graffed on might be Crabtrees that bore Crabs of several kinds, some better, some worse.  
So that to conclude this discourse. ti cannot be amiss to be so far curious about the Stocks you graft, as rather to choose such seeds and stones to raise them from as come from Trees that bear the best fruit in their kind (if you can have them) than to take them at adventure.   


Crab Kernels best.  Sect. 6.  
In raising Appletrees for Orchards or Fields, whether for Cider or baking, etc. the Crab-kernels are preferred before Apple-kernels, as yielding stocks more hardy, and so better able to endure cold and course Land, and because they root better and so will make larger Trees: Neither are some sorts of Crabs so contemptible a fruit as they are generally accounted; for being gathered very ripe and kept a good while to mellow, some of them will make good Cider; and generally they yield a strong Liquor: so that such kind of Crab-stocks may rather help to mend some Apples of weak juice than make them worse.  
Yet where you cannot conveniently be stored with Crab-kernels; Apple-kernels are not so much inferior to them, but they may well enough be made use of, (as they commonly are) for raising stocks to graft Apples upon.  
And concerning the seeds of Apples it's to be observed, that although they produce not Trees bearing the same kind of Apples as those the seeds were had out of; yet without graffing they will bring forth a good harsh fruit that may yield good Cider: and thus (it's said) we came by some of our best Cyder-Apples.  
If you sow the seeds of several sorts of Apples mixed together, you would certainly have fruit multiplied into various kinds; but yet perhaps find none better for Cider than those already known, nor so good, and such Trees will be longer before they come to bear fruit than others that are graffed: so that it would be but an unpleasant Experiment to search this way for a Cyder-Apple to exceed all that have been before, because the trial would be so tedious, and the labour in greatest likelihood lost at last.  
But if a man had a mind to raise a good new Fence about a field he designs to enclose, which he can keep for four or five years together to bear Corn or Clover-grass to mow, that Cattle may be so long kept out of it, he might do it rarely well by sowing Apple-kernels of as many sorts as he will, on the top of a new made Ditch-bank, making the dead Hedge (that is usually on the top of the bank) on the outside of the ditch to defend them.  
When they are grown up he may plash this Hedge, leaving at every four or five yard's distance, one of the best Trees to grow up, which of themselves will bear good Cyder-fruit, or may be graffed to bear what pleaseth the owner; and by this means in a little time and with small charge he shall have a fruitbearing and impregnable Hedge.   


Of the Pith and Kernels.  Sect. 7.  
It's held by some, that the Kernel of the fruit hath a great dependence upon and sympathy with the pith of the Tree, and that hollow-trees though they grow and bear fruit, yet that fruit hath few kernels in it, and those little better than withered husks.  
When I was a young Planter, I was once in want of Pear-stocks; and made my complaint to an ancient practiser, a man of very good judgement in the opinion of those that knew him, and he told me he had oft sowed kernels of Pears and never could get any to grow: Yet I procured some Seeds of Pears from the Mill, that were very ripe, and had stocks enough from them, which makes me believe my friend took his kernels from a Tree that was hollow-hearted, as Pear-trees are more subject to be than any other Fruit-trees.  
I mention this the rather, because if a Planter try any thing but once, and fail, he should not be discouraged, and particularly in this; but if he can get ripe Seeds, (which will be then very black) and of a sound Tree, he need not doubt the success.  
And to have plenty of stocks such as are best for large standards for Orchards, or Fields, there is no better way of raising them than by Kernels; with which a man can no way be plentifully and easily provided, but at the time and place of making Perry, though he do send some miles for them.  
I shall end this Chapter with this one Observation more, not unsuitable to what went before, and which I have met with verified more than once or twice in my own Experience, That there are some hollow Fruit-trees that bear fruit so much more excellent than any of the same kind the owners have had, or could elsewhere meet with, that they have been very desirous to propagate from them, but never could any manner of way raise young ones of those old Trees, that would bear so good a Fruit; which seems to infer that the fruit of a Tree may be the better for the piths being consumed; and if that be true, it must be so, because the pith conveys to the fruit a worse sort of juice than any other part of the Tree doth, and therefore being freed from that infection by the Consumption of the Pith, the Fruit becomes more choice and delicate. And that the Pith is the conveyance of a courser, or other sort of juice, is rendered in some sort probable, because (as hath been before observed) the Kernels of Fruit depend much upon the Pith, which almost never produce such good fruit as they come out of, and generally much worse.    

CHAP. III. Of Transplanting the Seedlings.  


Of removing Seeding.  SECT. 1.  
In October after one Summer's growth in the Seed-plot, you ought to draw up with your hand, such of your Crab, Apple, or Pear-seedlings as you sinned grown above a foot in height: as for those from Stones they need not be removed, but inoculated in the Seminary, the stones being set at the distance aforesaid.  
When they are drawn up, cut off the side-spriggs from about the top, and the strings from about the roots, and snip off the extremities, both of the top, that it may not run too fast upward, but the body may grow in bigness, and of the tap or heart-root, that it may not run directly downward (lest it run further than the good soil) but may be more apt to spread its Roots in breadth.  
Have beds ready prepared, of good fertile, dry Earth, not over rich, lest upon removal afterwards into a much worse Soil (as for the most part Orchard and Field ground is) your Trees coming of a sudden from such delicate food, to such course far, pine away if they do not perish; and this is but reasonably thought to be the cause why many Trees bought out of London Nurseries (which are vastly deep with fat, and rich manure) decay, or come on very poorly, when they are brought into the Country. Therefore upon every removal endeavour to have Earth as good, or better (to place next the roots) than that out of which they were taken.  
If any of these spring upright, top them early, it will make them grow bigger bodied, and so become sooner ready for graffing.   


Of saving them.  Sect. 2.  
Let every bed you make, for setting these Plants in, be about two foot broad, leaving room betwixt each bed to walk and work about them, without prejudicing the Plants: Set two rows a foot or more distant each from other on every bed, by drawing a line, and pricking holes a full foot asunder; let the holes be so deep, that if the roots be not very long, you may set your Plants at least two singer's breadth deeper in the ground than they grew in the Seed-plot, close the mould about them, and if it be a very dry time, water them the same day, the better to settle the Earth about them.  
If you can get old Fearn (in some places called also Brakes) or for want of it Straw, or new Dung, cover the Beds with it, which will keep the roots warm in the Winter, and preserve them from overmuch heat in the Summer; if the land be any whit stiff, this cover will make it mellow, and when rotten every it, and very much hinder the growth of weeds, which ought duly to be plucked up; and put new Fearn, etc. as the old rots.   


Of dressing them.  Sect. 3.  
Those of your Plants, which are not grown above a foot in height, you may let remain in your Seed-plot till another year.  
If you intent to raise any Stocks, to be set out in Fields before they are graffed, you need not top them upon their first removal, neither need you remove them, till they are grown high enough to stand in the Fields; if you find that they spread their roots, and run not downward, as in gravelly and such kind of soils they will not be apt to do; (and by the first you draw up you may judge of the rest, whether they do or no:) If you reserve any for this use, you had best choose such as grow strait, and at convenient distance one from another; which you may contrive to do, in drawing out the first two years, such as be of stature to be Transplanted from among them: Dress these once or twice a year by cutting off the biggest side-branches to hasten their growing tall, but leaving some small side-branches, for this causeth them to thrive in bigness the more, which they ought to do proportionable to their height, or else they will be too weak to bear a top.  
Observe this also in graffed Trees in your Nurseries or elsewhere.    

CHAP. IU. Of Inoculating.  


Way of Inoculating.  SECT. 1.  
About a fortnight before, or after Midsummer (which is the best time, though it may be done from the beginning of May till August) when you have pitched upon such stocks as are sit to be inoculated, choose out a strong and well liking branch, or shoot of that years growth upon a Tree that bears such kind of fruit as you would by this operation produce, and about the middle, or lower end of it, (for the top will be too tender) six upon a leaf, that hath a fresh and fair bud growing out betwixt it and the bark, and about half an inch below, and above the bud cut off the branch, and so you will have a piece of it about an inch long remaining, with a bud and a leaf on; this you must cleave just through the midst, so as the bud may be directly in the middle of the one half; and then snip off a part of the leaf, and holding it by the remainder, clap it to a smooth place on the stock; and with a Penknife score out, on each side of it, so much of the stock as it covers, or rather a little broader (because when the bark on which the bud is, is taken off from its own wood and applied to the stock, it will cover a wider space of the stock than it did before;) after you have thus marked your Stock, withdraw the Cyen again, and cut the bark through where you had marked it, then cut the bark cross and strait, from the uppermost end of one score to the upper end of the other, and cut the bark again cross and strait, from one score to the other, but not so low as the lower ends of the scores by a quarter of an inch, then take the oblong square piece of bark, that is cut on every side quite off the Stock, and raise up that part of the bark that remains betwixt the side scores, at the bottom of the work, from the wood, till you come to the lower ends of the side scores.  
Take then a Goose-quill, cut in the fashion of an Apple-scoop, or Scraper, and having with your Nail a little loosened the upper part of that Bark that is on the Cyens, thrust the quill betwixt the bark and the wood, holding it close to the wood, that it may separate them, and take off with the bark a little wood or root of the bud over against it: If you see a hole on the inside over against the bud, when you have taken the bark off, cast it away, that little labour is lost, and try another till you find it otherwise.  
Then put in the lower end of that Bark or Cyen betwixt the bark that was raised on the Stock and the Wood, and so bind it on the stock gently with Woolen-yarn, or narrow shreds of Linnen-cloth, or gentle Stuff, or with Bases, or Bast, of which the Russia Mats are made, but so that the Cyen may lie close to the wood of the stock that was made bare, and have a special care that you hurt not the bud.   


Several other ways.  Sect. 2.  
There are some other ways of inoculating used, differing only in the manner of the cut both in the bark of the Stock, and of the Cyens.  
And first, Some proceeding in all other things as is before directed, cut the Bark out of the whole length of the side scores, and apply the Cyen to the disbarked place.  
Secondly, Others cut one slit only, down the bark of the Stock, and another cross the top of it, like a great T: when this is done, they prepare the Cyens or bark as before directed, (only cutting it sharp pointed at the lower end before they take the bud off its wood) then raise the bark of the Stock up on each side the slit, and put in the Cyen, beginning at the top and sliding it downward gently, and so bind the Bark gently upon it. This is the common way used among Gardeners.  
Thirdly, You may make the cross cut in the middle of the downright score on the Stock, and lifting up the four corners of the bark, and making the Cyen sharp at both ends, put it under the bark of the Stock at both ends, and then bind it. But in doing this there is danger of hurting the Cyens.  
Fourthly, Mr Rea commends the making the cross cut at the lower end of the down right cut, and having opened the sides, put in the Cyen upward, being made sharp at the upper end only.  
Thus much to satisfy the curiosity of such as have a mind to make trial of every way; but the first that I have described at large, I take to be the best.    

CHAP. V Observations touching Inoculating.  


Necessary Rules.  SECT. 1.  
Lest one bud fail, or any mischance break it, put two in every Stock, but not directly under one another, on the same side of the stock: The branch or shoot, you cut one Cyen off, may yield you several.  
About a month after the inoculating, or sooner, if you perceive the bark swell where the binding is, cut off the binding.  
If it grow it will fix to the stock, keep its colour, and that part of the leaf and stalk that was left will drop off, and the bud appear fair; then sometime before the next spring cut off the top of the stock, a hands breadth above the place it was inoculated at, and all the side-branches, that grow any where upon the Stock; and at Spring the bud will put forth, and if any other sprouts or buds appear on the stock, cut them off.   diagram of tree 


A Denotes the cutting of the Bark for inoculating the first way directed.  
B The upper part of the bark taken off and the lower part raised.  
C The Bark prepared to put in the Stock.  
D The first inoculation finished.  
E The second way described by taking the Bark off the Stock in an oblong square.  
F The same finished.  
G The cutting the Bark of the Stock according to the Gardiner's ordinary way.  
H The sides of the Bark opened to put in the bark or shield.  
I The Bark of the Cyens prepared for that purpose.  
K This way of inoculation finished.  
L The cutting of the Bark of the Stock according to Mr. Rea 's best approbation.  
M The opening the Bark on each side the slit.  
N The Bark prepared to be put in.  
O The same finished.  
P The cut of the Cyens and the Stock for side-graffing.  
Q The cut of the Bark of the Stock for another way of side-graffing.  
R The cut of the Cyens and Stock for Slicing.  
S The cut of both for graffing by Approach.  
T The manner of Stock and Cyen for Whip-graffing.  
V The manner of cutting the Bark of the Stock for graffing in the bark.  
W The manner of Circumposition.    
Apricocks will have buds sooner ready than other Fruit; so that you may begin with them, and follow with other kinds.   


Size, height and ordering.  Sect. 2.  
Stocks raised of Peach-stones are commonly big enough to be inoculated the second Summer, sometimes the first after they are set; when they, or any other Stocks are an inch and half in compass, or thereabouts, they are big enough to be inoculated.  
Those you intent for Wall, or Dwarf-trees, are to be inoculated within a handful of the ground, and not Pruned at all till you remove them, and then you will better see what's necessary to be cut off: And these you may remove after one years' growth, or two with more safety.  
If you inoculate any Plums, Cherries, Pears or other Fruit, that you intent for an Orchard, or other place, for tall standards, you may do it higher on the stocks, and Prune these up in the Nursery, and let them grow there three or four years (according as they grow in height) before they be removed.  
After Stocks that are inoculated have made one or two years' growth, you must cut off the head of the stock, that remained above the bud at your first cutting it: Cut it close to the new branch, that it may grow over the cut; let it be cut a little slope, and clayed over, if you desire the branch should quickly cover it, and the sooner it doth the better.   


Choice of Buds, and what Fruits.  Sect. 3.  
Care must be had in choosing branches, or shoots, from which you are to have your buds, that are of strong growth, the Bark firm, and not sponge y; suffer them to fade as little as may be, before you use them; and if the fruit you design to raise, be at such a distance that you cannot have buds to inoculate the same day they are cut, put them in wet Moss, or Grass in a Box, and so they will keep a day and a night very well.  
Nectarines, Peaches, and Apricocks, are seldom raised otherwise than by Inoculation; I knew an Apricock graffed in the cloven, as likely as might be to grow, but failed; I have heard of one graffed in the bark that grew.  
The bark of Cyens taken from some Plums, is so tender and spongy, they will often miscarry when inoculated; from such one would choose rather to raise by Graffing; but most Plums will hit very well being inoculated.  
Cyens of Apples fail for the most part, their Bark being tender, and buds weak; but to preserve kind of a dying Appletree, that I could not well cut a Cyen to Graff off, I have taken a hungry bud of the year foregoing, and it hath taken, and grown very well.  
Cherries and Pears take very sure being inoculated on young fresh Stocks, whose Bark is not very thick.   


Inoculating preferred before Graffing.  Sect. 4.  
Where Inoculating succeeds well, it is to be preferred before Graffing.  
1. Because the Stock will be big enough to inoculate sooner by two or three years, than to graft, and your Plant groweth much faster, after the Nature is so altered, than it did before, and will be sooner ready to Transplant, than if it be suffered to grow two or three years longer, as it must be before it will be fit to be graffed.  
2. It makes a sounder Tree than one that is graffed, especially in the cloven; because it covereth the Stock speedily and well.  
3. It hurts not the Stock so much as graffing; and if it chance to fail, it may be inoculated next year again, and sometimes the same year.  
4. It's more speedy, easy, and delightful than Graffing, and may be practised by Gentlemen, who in June may lie on the ground and do it; whereas they cannot bear the cold without danger of taing hurt, in February, or March, which is the chief Graffing season.   


Of the time of the day.  Sect. 5.  
It is debated among Planters what time of the day is best for Inoculating: I have heard an Ingenious person argue stiffly for the morning; because there passeth up much more sap, or juice, in the day time, than in the night; as was observed by him in piercing the Birch-tree, and other Trees, to get the liquor, that distils out of them, for Physical uses; and consequently the bud inoculated in the morning, must be more likely to grow, having the whole days plenty of sap to invite it to unite with the Stock, than if it be inoculated late in the day, and so must be discouraged in its new habitation, by the niggardly provision of the nights Sap. If you follow this advice, you had best wrap some broad leaves, or Fearn, about the Stock, so as to shade the Cyens from the scorching heat of the day following, to prevent its drying before the Stock hath undertaken the charge of preserving it.  
But this work may be done in the middle of the day, if the heat be not violent, and then you must (as at all times you ought) be very quick in the doing of it.  
And for all that hath been said before, the afternoon may be as good a time as any; because if the bud have less liquor afforded it in the night, than the coolness of that time makes it less thirsty; and as its thirst increaseth by the heat of the next day, a more plentiful stream will be very seasonable to satisfy it.    

CHAP. VI Of the several ways of Graffing.  


Slicing, or Packing.  SECT. 1.  
As there are several ways (as you have seen) of Inoculating, so are there of Graffing, as now I come to let you see; and the first I shall speak of is that which is called Slicing, or Packing, which I shall describe here at large, and so it will serve as a general direction for all.  
Cut off the top of your Stock in some smooth strait place; if you do it with a Handsaw, cut it smooth afterward with your Knife, leaving the top flat and even.  
Then prepare your Cyens or Graff, by cutting it on one side, from the joint, or seam, (that is, at every years' growth) down slope-wise in the old wood, till it's cut quite off, that the slope may be about an inch long, or something more, observing its bent, that when the Cyen is fixed to the Stock it may stand almost upright; give a cut then cross through the bark at the top of the slope, and then cut a thin chip of that slope upward to the cross-cut, that there may be a shoulder to rest on the top of the Stock, but cut not this shoulder too deep, little more than through the bark will be enough, and this will cause a little rising in the sloped part, which you must cut down, that the whole slope may be plain and smooth, without dints or rise, and lie even to the side of the Stock.  
Cut then the top of the Cyen off, close above a bud, about four inches above the shoulder if it be for a standard Tree, two buds above the clay being full enough; but for Dwarf, or Wall-trees, you may let the Cyen be six inches long with several buds▪ that they may shoot forth many branches, and spread from the very Stock.  
The Cyens or Graff thus prepared; lay the cut part of the Cyens on the West, or South-west side of the Stock, and so measure and mark the breadth and length of it, then cut away so much of the bark of the Stock, as the cut part of the Cyens may fit, drawing your Knife upward; but as the stock is bigger, and the bark thicker than that on the Cyens, so the chip must be longer, and broader, or else the passage for the sap in the Stock and Cyen, (which is chief betwixt the bark and the wood) will not meet together (as in the work you will easily see) which should be aimed at.  
Then lay the cut part of the Cyens on the cut part of the Stock, and bind it on with course Woollen-yarn, Bases, or the inward peeling of the Witch-tree; if you bind with such a material as will not be lose, or rotten by Midsummer, about that time give it a cut  with a Knife to set the prisoners at liberty.  
Have in readiness good Clay, free from Stones, mixed with long Hay, and daub it about the Stock and Cyen, a full inch above and below the head of the Stock, work it up round the Cyen till it be sharp at the top, that the rain water may run down it; and with a Knife or little trowel dipped in water smooth over the clay; in doing this be sure not to displace the Cyen.  
Thus you may Graft Pears, Plums, Cherries, and Apples, if it be before the bark of the Stock will part from the wood of them, for when it will, the next way following is better for Apples.   


In the Bark the best ways.  Sect. 2.  
The second way (called Graffing in the Bark) is much like this, and I prefer it from experience much before the , or any other way, but it can only be used for Apples, because all Cyens of other Fruit will be grown past use, before the bark of the Stocks will peel; which is about the end of March or the beginning of April; but this will be time enough for Apples, if your Stocks be in any thing good liking, which if they be not, they are not fit to be Graffed any way.  
Prepare then your Stock and Cyen exactly as you were directed in packing, only instead of cutting the bark off the Stock, slit it on the South-west side, from the top, almost as long as the sloped part of the Cyens, and loosen the bark at the top of the slit with the point of your Knife.  
Have in readiness a little Instrument made of Ivory, or a Deer or Sheep-shank, or Silver, or hard smooth Wood, at one end let it be made of the shape of the slope part of the Cyens, but much less every way; thrust it down betwixt the Bark and the Wood of the Stock, where it was slit, to make room for the Cyen, take it out and put in the Cyen, but first cut a little of the bark at the thin end of the slope of the Cyens, that it double not in going down, yet leave it with a sharp edge; and because when your Cyen is put in, it will bear the bark hollow from the stock, nick or slit the bark, on each side the Cyens, so that it may fall close to the Stock, and to the edges of the Cyens. Bind and Clay it as you have already heard.  
These two are the best ways of Graffing for these Reasons.  
1. Because Stocks may be Graffed thus, some years before they can be ready to graft in the cloven; and though Whip-graffing may be used sooner than either of these, yet there are other great inconveniences attending it, as you will see hereafter.  
2. The Stocks are this way less harmed than where a cleft is used, because the cleft lets wet into them, and makes them not so fit for Graffing again (if any fail to grow the first time) as these continue to be, though they should once miscarry, or come to any mischance.  
3. The Cyens will much sooner and better cover the Stock, and so make a more healthful, sound, and swifter growing Tree.  
4. This is much more speedy, easy, and sure to succeed.   

Sect. 3.  

Whip-Graffing.  There is another way, called Whip-graffing, and here your Stock and Cyen ought to be exactly of the same bigness, as the manner of performing it plainly showeth, which is as followeth.  
Slope off the Cyen a full inch or longer, and do the like to the Stock, and tie the one upon the other.  
You may if you will, make a shoulder on the Cyens, and cut the top of the Stock to suit with it, and then bind them together, and clay about the place.  
This way is successful enough, so that special care be taken, that both Stock and Cyen suit exactly where they are joined together, which is somewhat troublesome to do, and so it is to find Cyens and Stocks of an equal bigness; besides the head will be apt to overgrow the Stocks; all that can be done to prevent it, is to Graff these very low, or if high, to give the Stock more liberty to thicken, by slitting the Bark of it with a Knife.  
In this way of Graffing there is another little knack may be added to very good purpose; and that is, when the Stock and Cyen are prepared (as you heard before) to be joined together, to make a slit with a Knife in the bare place of the Stock downward, beginning towards the top of the slope, and so slitting it a little way, and doing the like in the sloped face of the Cyens, but beginning at the same distance from the lower end of it, as you did before from the top of the Stock, and so carrying it upwards, and then join them by thrusting the one slice into the other, till the bare place of the Cyens cover the bare place of the Stock.  
This may be done likewise in Graffing by packing, and in both conduceth much to strengthen the work, and is called by some, Lipping, or Tonguing.   


Sid● Graffing.  Sect. 4.  
I am now going to describe another way that I never read of, neither ever knew more than one that used it, and he a skilful Gardner and used it very much: Knowing no name for it I have given it the name of Side-graffing.  
It's done by preparing the Cyen as in Whip-graffing; then without cutting off the head of the Stock, (but making it thin of side Branches) from a smooth place of it on the Westside, take off as much bark as the Cyens will cover (as in Packing) and slit both Cyen and Stock, according to the directions given in the end of the last Section, and fix them together accordingly: Bind it close and clay it.  
If it grow, at a years end cut off the top of the Stock at the graffed place slope-wise, and clay it.  
Some done thus grow well, and I have used it successfully, but suffer not the top of the Stock much to overgrow the Cyen the first year before it's cut quite off.  
There is another way of this kind, I have known used, and is easier done than the former, that is, to slit the bark of the Stock in the form of a great T, and loosening it with the point of a Knife, and then clapping in a Cyen, prepared as hath been said before, (but without the slit for Lipping,) bind and clay it.  
This can be used only when the Bark will part from the Stock.   


In the Cleft.  Sect. 5.  
The next way is that which is called Graffing in the Cleft, and is very ancient, and still used by common-Planters, and it's thus performed.  
Cut off the head of the Stock even and smooth, cleave it with a strong Knife, or Chissel, (hereafter described when I speak of Pruning big Trees) let the slit run near two inches deep, let it be as near the middle of the Stock as you can, but not in the pith or heart; have in readiness a stick of hard Wood, near a foot long, at one end made like a wedg; when you have taken out the Cleaver, put the wedg into the slit, and open it so wide as to put in the Cyen, when it's prepared.  
Which is by cutting it down slope on each side, about an inch in length, beginning at the joint, but leaving it much thinner on that side that goeth into the Stock than the other that is outward, (that side must be outward that will cause it to lean rather outward than inward;) you may let it have a shoulder on one side, or both, or either, all these ways are used; but shouldering takes up more time, and makes the Cyen weaker, and so apt by any chance to be broke off. Then with your Knife cut away any Jags, or roughness, or blackness that remains after cleaving on each side of the cleft within, and so put in either one or two Cyens (according as your Stock is in bigness,) place them so as the passage of the sap betwixt the bark and wood, both of the Stock and Cyen, may meet all along the cloven, as near as you can; draw then forth your wedg, and if the Stock be a big strong Stock, and do pinch the Graffs, drive a little wedg of dry wood into the slit, but not so as to let the Cyens lose; or for such strong stocks cut the Graffs as thick on that side that goes into the Stock, as on the outside, which will prevent the Stocks hurting the sappy part and bark of the Cyens.  
Many cleave big Stocks crosswise again, and put in two more Cyens, but cleaving hurts the Stock so much that you had better (if you will have more than two Cyens in one Stock) Graff the other two in the bark, according to the second way of Graffing, forecasting one of them to be on the Westside the Stock.   


By approach.  Sect. 6.  
There is another way, called Graffing by Approach, Ablactation, or Enarching, which is by having a Stock, or Stocks grow so near another Tree, whose Fruit you would propagate, that the stock and the branch of that Tree may be joined together in the manner following.  
Cut the side of the Branch and of the Stock (where they will meet) about three inches in length, till you come near the pith of each, and fit them both together, that the passages of the sap may join, in which posture bind and clay them: Assoon as you find the Cyen and Stock to be well cemented together, cut off the head of the Stock, about four inches above the binding; and in March following, cut off the stub you left of the Stock, and also the Cyen underneath, close to the Graffed place, that it may subsist by the Stock only.  
It's also used to be done by cutting off the head of the Stock at first, and sloping half off about two inches long, and joining the Cyen thereunto, being cut accordingly. See the Figure.  
This manner of Graffing is unnecessary, and scarcely practicable in the Fruit-Trees, chief intended in this Book; but for Oranges, Lemons, Pomgranats, Vines, Jessamins, and such like shrubs it may be practised.  
Also it's said that Trees of different kinds will sooner take this way than otherwise.  
Among all these sorts of Graffing, the second way for Apples, and the first for all other Fruit-trees, are to be preferred before all the rest.  
The Figures with these directions, I hope will make all easy to any man's understanding.    

CHAP. VII. Observations concerning Graffing.  


Size of Stocks.  SECT. 1.  
If the Plants that you removed out of your Seed-plot into the Nursery, and such Stocks for Stone-fruit in the Seed-plot as you intent to Graff, be half an inch over in thickness, where they are to be Graffed, or little more, it's enough: It's best not to have them above an inch in the diameter, both that you may lose no time, and that the Stock may be easier covered by the Cyen.   


Choice of Cyens.  Sect. 2.  
In providing Cyens or Graffs of Pears, Plums and Cherries you must observe to cut them in ●●nuary, or the very beginning of February, having respect to the forwardness or backwardness of the Spring, and the warmth or coldness of the Country you live in; but you must be sure to cut them before the buds have any speck of white appear upon them.  
Cyens for Appletrees will seldom be too forward any time before the beginning of March.  
Choose strong and well grown Cyens, that grow at the top or outside of a Tree that bears well, and good fruit of its kind, and cut not off the tops of the Cyens till you Graff them, for so they will keep the better.  
I have always found a shoot or branch of the year next foregoing to thrive best; and though in Graffing old Trees in Hereford-shire, some commend and use Cyens of two or three years' growth, yet those are seldom found to have convenient buds to put forth at, and oftentimes have blossoming buds on them, and make not so good a growth, neither have they so good a joint to Graff at, as those of the last year.  
When you get them, you had best cut off at least a hands breadth of that which grew the year before with them, besides the last years shoot; for so they will keep the better, and you must use about an inch of that old wood in every Cyens when you Graff it.   

Sect. 3.  

Time.  In January or February, as you find the weather grow warm, the wind not being North, or North-East, you may Graff Plums, Cherries, and Pears, but not Apples till the bark of the Stocks will rise or peel from the wood, which is seldom before the middle of March, and often not till April, because this is necessary for the best way of Graffing them; but if you will Graff any Apples in the cloven, you may do it a little sooner.  
Perhaps you may not have several sorts of Plums, Cherries, or Pears, so near you as that you may get buds fresh enough for Inoculation. In this case you may procure Cyens and Graff them, and they will continue fresh though you should send for them from beyond Sea.   


Cutting and ordering.  Sect. 4.  
These Cyens may be kept three weeks, or a month after they are cut, before they are used, and there ought to be a fortnight or three weeks betwixt the time of their being cut, and of their being Graffed, that the Stocks in that time may be more replenished with sap, and the Cyens be more empty of it.  
To keep your Cyens or Graffs after they are cut, you need not, as some direct, bury them in moist mould, for this may be a means to make them swell and bud forth, by receiving moisture from the Earth; and then when by Graffing they are exposed to the cold open Air, they will be in danger to whither and die before they have nourishment from the Stock.  
You may lay them in a dry house, so it be near no heat, or under an old Tree, or Hedge, and cover them all over with dry mould, that the Air may not have too much influence upon them: though they seem somewhat dry, yet if they cut with a fresh colour, and be not much withered, they will not grow the worse, but rather the better; yea some that have seemed withered, being carried in a Cloak-bag seventy or eighty miles have grown well.  
Suffer not the buds to be hurt, or rubbed in the binding or carriage.   


Of joints and height of Graffing.  Sect. 5.  
There be some indifferent whether they Graff at a joint or no, but forecast to have a bud directly behind the shoulder of the Cyens: If Cyens with joints were scarce, you might practise so on small Stocks that will be speedily covered, but if Cyens can be had with joints, never Graff with others, for these will cover the Stocks sooner.  
It will do well in Graffing Stocks for large Standards, to put but one Cyen into a Stock, and if it put forth several shoots, to cut off all but one, that is the straightest and strongest: But for Dwarves and Wall-fruit put in two Cyens, if the Stock be big enough. Let the later be Graffed near the ground, the former at such height as the Stock will allow.   


Marking T●ees.  Sect. 6.  
In Graffing or Inoculating, it may be necessary to have some mark, to know what kind of Fruit is put upon each Stock; if you Graff many of one kind, (as it's necessary for Cyder-Fruit) you may observe to make every row to consist but of one kind, and it's but entering in a Book, that such a row hath such a kind of Fruit in it, and no other; but where there are several in one row, there may be a Stake knocked into the ground at the beginning of every new sort, and so entered in your Book; and where you have very few of a kind (or for your whole Nursery, if you please) you may make marks of several figures or shapes, in the bark of the Stocks; which marks enter into your Book, and what kind it denotes, and at two or three years when you remove it, the mark will be very visible; and by renewing the marks sometimes, you may continue it as long as you please, and if any Tree be stolen you may own it by the mark.    

CHAP. VIII. Of Planting Wall-Fruit.  

SECT. 1.  

Time.  Stone-fruit will be first ready to remove, for after two years' growth in the Seed-plot or Nursery, after they are Inoculated, or Graffed, you may well remove them, be they for Wall or Dwarves, which you ought to do in October or November; early removing being advantageous for all Fruit-Trees, both for the security of their growing, and for their well growing.  
Young Trees, having been taken up about November, and the ends of the roots cut off, and laid in the Earth till March to be Planted, being then taken forth again, it hath appeared that they have put out many fibrous roots, at the ends of those big roots that were cut off; which had they done in the place they were to grow in the next Summer, this would have been a good preparation against Spring; and it's always seen that Trees set in February or March, make generally a much less growth the next year, than those that were set before Winter. If a dry Summer happen to succeed, it often kills some of the late set Trees, and puts such a stop to others, that they recover not of many years.  
In sharp Frosts, though you could dig, it's not good to remove Trees.   


Preparing ground, and distance.  Sect. 2.  
Make a Trench by the Wall-side you are to set them up to, about two foot broad, and as deep, and in every place where a Tree is to be set, about a yard square, mingle good old rotten Neats-dung, with the Earth, and fill it up, near as high as you intent the borders to be, and when you have filled it about half full, tread it down; But if you design no borders, make then only a hole for each Tree, of the square before mentioned; but if your Soil be wet, or binding gravel, or such like, very bad in the bottom, go not so deep, it will be better to set them shallow, and raise the Earth about them.  
As to the distance Wall-fruit-trees are to be set at, where they are to grow, you may learn that best by considering their aptness to spread: Apricocks and Pears spread most, the May Cherry and some others are of very small growth; it's impossible to give rules for all, but the general distance is about four yards asunder.   


Mixing Soils, and setting them.  Sect. 3.  
If it be not a manured Land you set them in, have in readiness some very fine rich Mould, or shovellings of a yard where Cattle are frequently lodged or fed, that hath lain on heaps till it's mellow, and become dry, or rotten Neats-dung, which you may mix with the Earth that came forth of the hole, and so order it, that it may be as good or better, than that out of which your Trees came: Fill the hole half way up with this, and tread it down in such form (having respect to the roots of the Tree that is to be set in it) that the roots may rest close upon it. Cut off the ends of all the roots, (if it have one long downright root, you may cut it almost half off,) try (by setting the Tree in the hole) which side will stand best to the Wall, and then cut off such branches as grow directly toward, and fromward the Wall, leaving only the side branches, to be nailed unto it, then clap your Tree in, placing it as far from the Wall as the top will allow, that must be spread upon it, that the roots may have the more liberty to spread backwards: Fill up the hole with the mould, and use all diligence to place the roots of your Tree in the same posture they were in before you removed it: If the Tree be young, and the Roots slender, this can be performed no way but by throwing in a little Soil at a time, and then raising up with your hands such Roots as are pressed down by it below their proper situation, spreading them on the soil you have cast in, and then throwing in more, and ordering the Roots as before, so continuing to do till you have filled up the hole.  
Old Trees with sturdy Roots do not require so much curiosity; but you must be sure that the mould lie close under, betwixt, and among the Roots.  
If the Soil be light, you must press it down gently with your foot, then cover them half a yard about with Fearn or Straw; or if your ground be not very rich, with Dung.   


〈…〉 the 〈◊〉.  Sect. 4.  
Every year it will be necessary to prune and nail them to the Wall, twice, or thrice, according as they grow more or less; wherein you must observe, to bend down the strongest shoots (that would grow upward) towards the sides, otherwise they will be apt to run strait upward, and not cover the space you design for them, and by their luxurious growth, will extremely rob the side branches of their nourishment. There will branches enough spring out fresh to run upwards out of them when they are so bowed.  
Cut off such as grow directly outward close to the body; if you cut a part of any branch off, do it at a bud, that the cut may be covered with a fresh sprig.  
Lay none , or under one another, but let them spread as the fingers of your hand when it is expanded.  
The Winter pruning may be done, as soon as the fruit, and leaves are fallen, or any time before February, except Nectarines, and Peaches, which are apt to die, if pruned before the Sap rise. Mr. Rea saith, the best time to Prune them, is after they flower.  
Shreads of Woollen-Cloth are the best things to Nail them up with; some use gentle Leather, or an old Hat, any of these may serve turn.   


〈…〉  Sect. 5.  
Sometime in the Winter, after two or three years, if the Soil the roots are to spread into, be not rich enough, open the ground at the outside of the holes you made at setting, as near round about, as the Wall will permit. If you find no roots bare, let it lie open a month, and then fill it up with the Earth that came forth, well mixed with such a manure as suits with it.   


Amenling Soil.  Sect. 6.  
Where the natural soil is not good enough of itself, whether it be in Garden, Orchard, or Field, there it ought to be by skill assisted, and bettered, at leastwise for such a compass as the roots of every Tree take up for some time, if not so far round as they are ever like to extend themselves.  
And this must be done by mixing such Manures with the Soil, as suit best with its temper.  
If the Soil be clay, or clay mixed with gravel, or wet heavy land, hot Dung, as that of Horses, or Poultry, is best to mix with it, to bring it to a due temperament.  
And if the soil be a light, hollow, eskie, or sandy land, Marle, Mud our of a Pond or River, or shovelling● of dirty yards or highways, if they be not sandy, and be well mellowed, by lying on heaps, and especially if those heaps are mixed with Lime, are proper to mend it.  
If this last soil be barren likewise, you may properly add a mixture of Neats-dung.  
If your Land be too rich (which is seldom seen) you may mix coal Ashes with it.  
I have seen an Appletree on a Hemp-but, which was constantly Ploughed, and Manured to a great richness, bear more Apples than four such Trees in an Orchard would do. And it's constantly seen in barren hungry Land, Trees thrive poorly, grow Mossey, or Bark-bound, bearing very little, and that a very poor Fruit.  
Only Walnut-trees and Pear-trees do not necessarily require a very rich ground, and will prosper best on stony and light land.   


〈…〉  Sect. 7.  
When your Wall-trees are grown old, and full of big wood, you may in three or four years' time renew them, by cutting out some of the biggest stems, or boughs, yearly, cutting each branch off at some small twig, (if it may be) that either it, or a fresh branch may grow over the cut place; which must be kept covered with Clay; and so go on yearly, till all the big wood is cut out.  
Or if you dislike the kind of Fruit, you may Inoculate, or Graff the boughs with a better sort of Fruit, but not all in one year, but some one, and some another.  
By either of these ways, you may renew a decaying Tree, and keep your Wall almost still furnished, with less trouble and charge, or loss of time than by taking up the old one, and planting a young one in its stead.   


Appropriating Fruit to Walls.  Sect. 8.  
In furnishing your Walls with Fruit-trees, observe always to Plant Peaches and Nectarines up to the Wall that is most ; the East Wall is to be allotted to Apricocks, carly Cherries, and the choicest Plums; the West may be set with Pears, Cherries, and Plums.  
Some of the coursest Pears and Plums, you may set to the North Wall, both to cover the wall handsomely, and many years they will bear as well on it, as on standards; especially if your wall stand not directly North, but so as to have some considerable benefit of the Sun; Nut-trees likewise are proper for this wall, and will prosper well up to it.  
If your conveniencies will allow it, and you are to build a new Wall, it is much better to have your Garden walls not stand directly towards the four points, than otherwise, and then the worst wall will be much better, and the best good enough for your purpose.  
As thus, the East-wall, to incline to the South; the South, to the West; the West, to the North; the North, to the East; or contrary, but not so well.  
In the first way the two first walls will be extraordinary good, and the two later good enough for ordinary Fruit.   


Making a Wall.  Sect. 9  
In building a New Wall, it would be very advantageous, to make it with half rounds, each semicircle being eight yards round in the inside, and about six yards in the face or diameter, each taking two Trees; and betwixt every half round, let there be two foot breadth of plain walling, where you may place a Flowerpot on a pillar two soot high, or Plant a Vine to run up it, which every Summer, you may let spread itself a little into the half rounds on each side it.  
I know an honourable Gentleman, in somewhat a cold Country, that hath his Garden walls so made, and his Trees bear Fruit plentifully in such years as his neighbours generally fail.  
I also saw a wall made thus for raising Melons under, by a pattern or directions from Italy.  
I have also seen Grapes ripen delicately on every side the cluster, that grew in a half round.  
By means of these rounds, every wall will one time of the day or other, have a share of the Sun, and the best walls (by reason of such a reflection, and collection of the Sunbeams as will be in every round) will be exceeding hot, and the Trees be more secure from winds.  
Having said thus much here of the Wall, that Fruit-trees are to be set up to, thus much more may not improperly be here added.  
That a Pale is as good for this purpose, and in respect of ripening Fruit better than any thing else it can be raised up to, if the Pale be made of sawed boards, nine or ten foot high, and exactly joined, that no wind may come through; next to this in goodness is a Brickwall, and then a Stone wall, and the worst of all that which is made of Timber and Mortar; but in this every one cannot be his own chooser, but must comply with what the Country he lives in will permit him to do for his best convenience.  
When you Plant your Garden with Fruit-trees, you may do well to draw the Platform of it in Paper, and so set down the name of every Tree, according to the place it stands in, whether in Wall-fruit or Dwarf-trees; the same course you may use about your Orchard, and you will find it both satisfactory and useful, that you may readily at any season of the year, know what kind of Fruit every Tree beareth: The Fruit Planted in Fields, not being of so much variety, may be easily distinguished without this help.    

CHAP. IX. Concerning Dwarf-trees.  


Advantage of Dwarves.  SECT. 1.  
These Trees have been of late much affected and coveted, because they are of special advantage for Table-fruit, (whether Pears, Apples, Plums, or Cherries) and being but of low Stature, may be Planted in the borders of Garden-walks, without doing any thing else there about them any prejudice, by overshadowing them; and their fruit will be as well secured, and commodious for gathering as the Wall-fruit.   


Stocks for Pear-trees.  Sect. 2.  
Plants for this purpose must be provided, and prepared somewhat differently from those for Orchards, or Fields.  
The Quince-tree is generally used, and best for Stocks for Pears, both for Dwarves and Wall; as well because it may possibly somewhat meliorate the Pear as (and that chief) because it groweth not to that bigness, as on a Pear-stock it would be apt to do.   


For Appletrees.  Sect. 3.  
For Dwarf-Apple-trees the best Stocks are such as are raised of the cuttings of other Appletrees, as of the Gennet-moil, the Kentish-Codling and others.  
That these are more proper for Dwarf-trees, than Crab-stocks, appears;  
1. Because the Fruit will be rather bettered, and not tainted with any asperity, or roughness, as possibly it might be, if Crab-tree-stocks were made use of; and one chief design in these Trees is to have choice, and delicious Fruit for eating.  
2. Appletrees that are raised on such Stocks, will not grow so big as those on Crab-stocks, but are with ease and certainty kept Dwarves. Mr. Rea judging the Paradise-Apple of somewhat slow growth in bringing forward a Cyens, advises to Graff a Paradise on a Crab-stock, and the Fruit you would have on that Paradise, that the Crab might yield plenty of juice or sap to the Paradise, and the Paradise retard the growth of the Apple planted on it, so as to keep it a Dwarf; but besides loss of time, I doubt the success of this, because the Crab will put forth strong Roots, and yield plenty of nourishment: For why Appletrees raised by cuttings grow not to be very large Trees, I take to be, their putting forth such small roots, by which means the Tree hath sap conveyed to it accordingly.  
3. By using these cuttings for Stocks, you shall get at least four years' time, reckoning from sowing the Crab-kernel, and the setting the Stem or Cutting, being duly ordered; As  

1. By setting the Stem in the place you intent the Dwarf-tree shall grow.  
2. And setting it in good Earth, for then after one years' growth you may Graff it, and you will easily discern the advantage in point of time.   
If it be said Crab-stocks ready grown may be made use of instead of cuttings; there's this Answer ready, They must grow two if not three years after they are set before they are sit to Graff, and in respect of their large growth will not be sit for Dwarves.  
Some Nursery Men have made advantage to themselves by this speedy way off raising Trees by Cuttings, but to the disadvantage of them they put them off to for Planting in Orchards, because they are never like to make large, or long lasting Trees.   


Rules for providing them.  Sect. 4.  
The way then to provide these Stocks is thus.  
In October from such Trees whose cuttings will grow, take such stems, or branches that grow straightest, and which (in the place where they shall be Graffed) are an inch, or more thick, if they be near two inches it's so much the better, cut them off, if you can, a hands breadth below such knots or burrs as are on them, (for at those burrs they principally put forth their roots) and cut off the top, that they be not above a yard long, (if you cannot get them so long) of Quinces you must be content with shorter, (if they be two foot it may do reasonably well: Cut off also all side branches close to the body, except one small twig near the top, for the Sap to vent itself at, set these presently in beds as your Seed-plants were, or rather if your Garden be laid out (that you can know the places they shall stand in) set them there.  
You need not fear setting these as deep, as the length will bear, so that there be about a foot above ground, because they will shoot out roots all along, almost to the top of the ground, and so spread their roots in the good Soil; and by setting them something deep they are in less danger of dying, and this prevents the trouble of covering the ground about them with Fearn or Straw; and by this means likewise they will stand the firmer in the lose Garden-land, for Graffing at a years end, and better support a spreading top afterwards.   


By Circumposition.  Sect. 5.  
But because it's hard to meet with great plenty of such branches, thus to be cut, and set for Stocks, that have burrs or knots upon them; Planters have therefore found out a way (which is called Circumposition) to bring these Knots or Burrs upon Branches, that had them not before, and to mend and improve those that before had them, and the way of it is as followeth.  
About the beginning of February next before you design to cut these stems, directly above the place you intent to cut them off at, for about a foot in length, fasten about them some Earth in an old Hat, or Boot, or Bag made of some strong Cloth: and in that Earth they will have put forth Roots against the October following, when you are to cut them off to set them.  
Or (which is a quicker and readier way) you may dawb some wet Earth or Clay about the place, and wrap a Hay-band about it, putting some moist Earth likewise betwixt the rounds of the band, and then running it about again over the spaces betwixt those first rounds of the Hay-band and making fast the ends of it. If the stem have no burr before you go either of these ways to work, than first take off here and there a little slice of Bark about an inch long round about it near the middle of the place to be covered as hath been directed.  
Some direct, That before this application of the Earth, about an inch breadth of the Bark be taken off, round about the part of the branch, that is to be surrounded with the Earth, that roots may shoot out in greater quantity, by coming out in the upper skirts of that circle, as well as in the lower; but this is but a Crotchet, and grounded (as my Lord Bacon hath truly observed) upon the opinion of the Descension of the Sap; whereas indeed there is no such thing, for the whole mass of Sap is always afcending; in lesser quantity in the Winter, because the Tree is then only to be nourished, and kept alive, to which end a small supply is sufficient, and yet necessary; and in greater plenty in the Summer, to furnish the Tree with leaves, fruit, and new yearly growth. And the true reason why the leaves and fruit fall off towards Winter is, not because the sap returns downward from them, but because they have arrived to their full ripeness, and the Tree fails by degrees, to convey up so much Sap as it did in the Summer to them, to produce fresh ones; and therefore consequently that's an idle mistake too, to think that the sap or juice in the Winter, is laid up in the Roots as a repository, as appears plainly, inasmuch as they are ever found dryer in the Winter than in the Summer.  
So that upon the whole, this taking the Bark off round the branch, is good for nothing, but to endanger it, by intercepting the juice or sap, which rifes in greatest quantity betwixt the bark and the wood; but if as before was hinted, you take some little slices of the bark off round the branch, here and there, leaving the Bark entire in some places, this may by checking the Sap, cause it the more abundantly to pass into roots.  
But to proceed to the business in hand, you have seen the way of preparing cutting, by circumposetion, and though some will pretend to raise Trees of any kind by the use of it, yet it's certain it avails not, but only in such as by a peculiar property are apt to put forth roots, being cut off and set into the ground; and those generally known, and made use of this way, are the Kentish Coddling, the Genne●-Moil, some sorts of Sweet-Apples, and Bitter-sweets, the Quince-tree, the Mulberry-tree, and the Paradise-Apple-tree, which last is much commended by the skilful Mr. Rea, for to raise Stocks for Dwarf-Apple-trees.   


〈…〉  Sect. 6.  
Another way to raise Stocks for Dwarf-trees, is to cut down some one Tree of little worth, of such a kind as you want Stocks of, about a foot, or more from the ground: This will make some kind of Trees very apt to cast forth very good Suckers from the old roots, such as at two years' growth may be transplanted; and the Stump above ground, will also put forth abundance of young Shoots: After these young shoots have grown out of the stump one year, cast Mold, or Earth about them, a good height; so that you cover not the tops of any of them; where let them grow two years more, and they will be well rooted, then cut them off from the old Stock, (which after that may yield fresh ones again) and set the shoots you take off as before hath been directed about Cuttings.  
These will be about three years longer before they be ready to Graff than Cuttings, but will be very good young fresh Stocks, and is a good way to raise Stocks of the Quince-tree for Pears; because Quince-trees generally grow so crooked and irregular, that it's difficult to procure any considerable quantity of them by Cuttings.  
If they shoot up tall after they are moulded, you had best top them at a convenient height, it will make them grow the more in bigness, and so be sooner sit to Graff. But if you have a desire to have any of the same kind, as the old Tree was, you need not top them.  
And by this means if you want Quince-trees, coddlings, etc. you may be furnished with plenty, that will make better and handsomer Trees than if you raise them by Cuttings.   


By Suckers.  Sect. 7.  
You may also raise Stocks for Dwarf-Pear-trees from Suckers of old Pear-trees, (if you cannot conveniently get enough of the Quince-tree) for many Pear trees cast them naturally, which being preserved from Cattle, may be taken up, and set in beds of Earth as you did the Seedlings.  
If your Pear-trees yield not Suckers of themselves, you need only cut off the top of some old ill Pear-tree (and Graff it with a better Fruit if you please) and the roots will cast forth Suckers plentifully, and you may help them by making a small Ditch or Gutter, so as to bare some of the roots, about two yards distant from the Tree, or pair off the Grass (if any grow about the Tree) that they may have the more liberty to spring up.  
Or in this case you may bare the roots, and then give a cut cross some roots almost to the heart, and from the cross cut cleave the root, raising up the lose part, and put in a little stone to keep it open, cover it three inches over with mould: let this be done, if you can, where you find a bud, or eye, on the root, for the sucker to shoot out at; and either Inoculate the young shoot in the place where it stands, or remove it to some other place after a years growth, and when you do, cut off with it about a foot of the old root; and by this means you may have suckers from some other Trees, that do not naturally yield them.   


For Cherries, and Plums.  Sect. 8.  
To have Stocks for Dwarf-Cherries, and Plums, or for such Trees for a Wall, the speediest way, and such as will succeed for that purpose, is by suckers of the common Red-Cherry, and any ordinary Plum-tree; both which cast up suckers plentifully.  
If the Suckers grow in a place that is secure from harm, you may Inoculate or Graff them before removal, under their Mother Plant, and let them grow there one year after; and hereby you will gain a years time and more; choose such suckers as grow at greatest distance from the old Tree.   


Ordering the heads of Dwarves.  Sect. 9  
In Graffing or Inoculating Stocks for Dwarf-trees, observe to do it as low as you well can, with two Cyens, and those longer than in Graffing for large Standards, that they may spread from the ground.  
And after they are grown two, or three years in the places they are to stand in, to make them spread, and to keep the boughs outward, you may tie an old hoop of a Barrel, or some such thing, in the midst of the branches, to bear them a good distance one from another; but if one branch be much stronger, or more inclined to grow upright than the rest, than you may drive a Stake into the ground, and tie the sturdy one down to it.  
If you cut the bark  in several places on the inside of the branches, when they are placed as you would have them, it will be a means to make them more willing to continue in that order of their own accord, after some years' growth: If any one branch shoot out much further than the other, cut off its top to keep it even with the rest, and yearly cut much off, especially new shoots, that grow directly upward, after they are grown to that height you design them to be of, which may be about a yard and a half.   


Trees of Cuttings.  Sect. 10.  
Having directed how to raise Kentish-Codlings, Gennet-moils, Quinces, or any that grow of cuttings for Stocks, I need give no other rules for raising Trees, or Hedges of the same kind of Fruit, only you need not cut them so short as you do for stocks.  
I have seen coddlings Graffed on Crab-stocks, and set in a Garden; but I think it will increase their growth, because Crab-stocks have great roots, and will yield them more plenty of nourishment than roots of their own putting forth, when they are raised by Cuttings.  
Others Graff Gennet-moils on Crab-stocks, and they thrive well, and bear a larger and (some think) a better Fruit than those Trees of that kind raised by Cuttings; I have Graffed several of them in rough and woody grounds which have grown with very strong shoots, and covered the Stocks very soon.    

CHAP. X. Of Planting an Orchard.  

SECT. 1.  
So far as it lieth in a Man's power to choose a plot of ground for his Orchard, 
Choice of ground.  he ought to do it with respect to these advantages.  
It should lie conveniently near him, declining and lying open towards the South, Southeast, or South-West, and defended from the North, North-East, and North-West winds by buildings, woods, or higher grounds; the land should rather incline to dryness than moisture, without Springs; the Soil deep, and a fat Earth, not a stiff cold Clay, or binding Gravel, nor a light sandy or eskie hollow Earth: Yet with good Husbandry, if it run not into the extremes of any of these, Fruit-trees may prosper reasonable well in it.  


A. The erder of Trees in the Orchard  
B. The Garden wall.  
C. The chisel.  
D. The Ladder  
E. The Instrument to graft in the bark with.     


To qualify ground.  Sect. 2.  
If the Land you intent for it be a Turf, or green-sward, you will do well to Blow it two years before you set your Trees in it, to make it mellow and lose, that the Trees may the better take root; and you may then lay on Manure, which by Ploughing will be well mixed with the natural Soil; and use such Manure as will best suit to amend it, according to what you have heard before in the 8th Chap. Sect. the 6th.  
If your Land lie very flat, that wet is apt to stand upon it, or be a shallow soil, you may something help it in Ploughing also, by gathering the Land always up, in and near the place where you intent the rows of Trees shall afterwards stand, which in two years' time will something raise it, and thicken the Soil, and the Reanes or Furrows so made, will help to carry off the Water.  
But if it be a springey Land, you must Trench it at the head of the Spring, and that deeper than the Channel of the Spring runs in the Earth, which you may leave open, and yearly cleanse, or fill it with Oler boughs, and cover them with the Turf and Earth that came forth, much higher than the other Land, for the Wood and lose Earth will sink very much by degrees.  
If it be not springey, but only lie so low and flat, that in the Winter Rain, or Land-floods will lie upon it, and that it hath been lately Ploughed, or that you will not lose two years' time by Ploughing it, before you set your Trees, or if it be a shallow or ebb soil, you had best set the Trees by Tumping, according to the directions in Field-planting, which you will find hereafter spoken fully to in its proper place.   


Of uneven ground.  Sect. 3.  
If there be any unevenness in the Land, some direct to levelly it, by carrying the banks into low places; but this will not only be very chargeable, but hurtful, by making the high places too barren, and the low ground too rich.  
But that your Trees may grow somewhat level in their tops, and not one over-shade another, and also appear comely, you may forecast to set such Trees as grow pendant, or are not apt to grow tall Trees, on the highest ground, and such as are aspiring in the lower places.   


Time and manner of planting it.  Sect. 4.  
The best time to Transplant into Orchards, is from the end of September, to near the end of November, the sooner the better: If the leaves are not all fallen when you remove your Trees, pick them off.  
If your Trees are not very weak bodied, Prune them up, leaving three or four of the principal branches on the top, that grow outward, which should be lopped off almost a years growth; but if they be weak (lest the wind should injure them by tossing them) you may top them lower, doing it at a bud, or small twig; and in big Trees, cut the top almost all off; and whensoever you transplant young Trees, cut off the end of all big roots.   


Of removal of Trees.  Sect. 5.  
At three years' end, after Graffing in the Nursery, Trees may be fit to be removed into an Orchard, especially if you Blow (or which is safer dig) the Orchard land, and set Beans and other Kitchen-Garden-stuff in it for some years; but if it be such a piece of Land that you Graze, than you must be sure their heads be grown out of the reach of Cattle before you set them there, and you must Fence them one of the ways mentioned hereafter, in the Chapter of Field-planting.   


Of distance.  Sect. 6.  
The distance of Trees in Orchards ought not to be less than eight yards, neither need it be more than thirteen, or fourteen; the richer the Land is, the greater distance you ought to set the Trees at from one another, to which you ought to have respect, and also to the kinds of Fruit-trees you Plant, for some Trees take up more room in their growth than others, as most Pear-trees more than Appletrees, and some Appletrees more than others, according to their aptness to grow more or less, too tedious and difficult to be here related; only the Redstrake being generally a desired Fruit, you may take notice that it's one of the least Appletrees, where it yields the best Cider, sometimes it's almost but a shrub.  
It's certainly best in many respects for Trees to be Planted at a very good distance; for,  
1. The Plantation will be little annoyance to the Land, if either you set Garden stuff in it, sow Corn on it, while the Trees are young, or Graze it when they are grown up.  
2. Whereas some say the more Trees, the more Fruit; that's absolutely false, for when they are set so close, that the Sun cannot have a good influence upon them, they bear poorly and ripen worse.  
3. They cannot grow to be Trees of that size as they would, (if the land be good) being set at a good distance, and some kind of Trees being of stronger and swifter growth than others, will so domineer over their neighbours, that they will make them almost good for nothing.  
4. You may plant betwixt every Tree a Cherrytree, or Codling-tree, which may grow up, and bear with the other Trees many years, and never prejudice them, but will decay before the others are at full growth.  
Or you may set a young Appletree or Pear-tree, betwixt every two of your standards, that you set in your Orchard, and nurse it up with necessary dressing and pruning, seven or eight years, or less time, to Transplant into Fields, or Pasture-land where Cattle feed, whereby with little help it will not be in such danger of hurt from Cattle, as small ones would, and bear Fruit soon after it's set; and you cannot let them grow so long in your Nursery without galling, or hurting one another; unless when you remove Trees out of your Nursery you take care to leave every other Tree, whereby they may have liberty to grow big, and so more sit for your fields.   


Of transplanting Trees young or old.  Sect. 7.  
I know some are for removing Trees very young, and it's certainly the best way if they can be secure from danger, which in Orchards or Fields where Cattle have liberty to feed they cannot well be with ordinary fencing, unless they be of five or six years' growth after graffing. He that hath a Nursery of his own, and removes them into places so near that he can well do it, let him the very same or the next day after they are taken up, set them in the place appointed for them, and not cut off too much of the roots, but the greatest part of the top. And he may do well to plant strong and well grown Trees, especially in his fields and out-grounds; for the charge of Fencing will be much eased, and being carefully set they may prosper as well, or better than small ones, especially in uncultivated, or stiff land by Nature, where young Trees cannot so well put forth roots. And here I shall propose a surer way to have old Trees removed grow, and prosper well, than is commonly practised; that is,  
If you chance to have any Trees betwixt ten and thirty years old, that you have a mind to remove, you must about November, the year before you transplant them, dig a trench, as narrow as you please, but so deep as to meet with most of the spreading Roots, at such a distance round about the body of the Tree, as you would cut the roots off at, when you remove it; (about half a yard distant from the body may do well, if they be not very large Trees, but if you have not far to carry them leave them longer;) as you make the Trench cut the roots you meet with clear off, and smooth, without splitting them, or bruising the bark, fill up the Trench again; and by October next after, when you take up the Tree to set it elsewhere, you will find those great roots will have put forth many fibrous roots, and made preparation for more; which fresh and tender roots, upon removal, will enable the Tree to draw more nourishment than otherwise it would, and consequently to prosper the better in its new mansion.   


The order.  Sect. 8.  
The best way you can set Trees in an Orchard is according to the Figure which is called a Quincunx.  
You are to proceed in setting your Trees in the ground by the same general rules, given for Wall-fruit, observing exactly all that is there, but only what in particular concerns the wall.  
Also in transplanting any big Trees, men generally observe to coast them, (as it's termed) tha● is, to place the same side of the Tree ●o the South, East, etc. as grew so me●ly that way, where it stood before; to which end before you remove it, you had best make some mark in the bark of the Tree, which way it stood; this you may observe in strait Trees, but it's more material if your Trees lean one way more than another, to set the leaning side towards the South-West, from whence the strongest winds blow.   


T●● Fence.  Sect. 9  
The best quick Fence for your Orchard is a good white-thorn, that when it's grown up may be plashed, the better to prevent the creeping of Hogs, or Sheep into it; set no smooth quick in it, that may grow to great Trees, because they will be hurtful both to the Hedge and Fruit-trees, both by their tops and roots, when they are grown up; but set two rows of good Hawthorn, and make the dead-hedg on the outside the ditch, and the quickset will grow the faster; for the hedge upon the ditch is apt to choke the quick: And thus with sometimes weeding it, you may soon raise a good fence.  
If you have an old hedge already about your Orchard, scour the ditch, and plash the hedge, and cut down all big Trees that grow in it, unless on the North, or Westside, the one requiring a defence to keep the Orchard warm, the other to secure it somewhat from the strong winds, that blow down the fruit before its ripe, though it's better they grew on the outside the hedge.   

Sect. 10.  
Your Orchard-fruit-trees as well as others, 
Pruning  will need some pruning, which you may observe to do after this manner; if you desire they should be tall Trees, cut off all the side- branches till they are grown to the height you desire; if to spread low, let some be left on each side, that the boughs on any one side may not weigh down the Tree, but that it may grow strait upright.  
And suffer them not the first three years (at least) to grow thick and bushey headed, by cutting off some of the inside shoots, and such as grow cross one another, or pendant; what you cut off from the bodies, or any branch, do it close and even, that the bark may grow over it: It you cut part of any shoot, or a Cyen for graffing, cut it close at a bud or sprig, that in that case the wound may again grow up and a stub end not be left behind.  
When Trees grow big, that a knife will not prune them, procure an Instrument like a broad Chissel, the handle of Iron, and the edge alike on both sides, not sloping on one side like that of Joiner's, but plain as a knife, and very thin, about 3 or 4 inches in breadth, the form you will see in the Table of Figures; with which, and a Mallet, you may take off a bough, or large branch as you will, without either hurting the bark of the Tree, by cutting too near, or leaving a stump, by not cutting near enough; one of which is not easily avoided by the chance blows of an Axe or Hatchet; and being amongst thick boughs, your Chissel and Mallet will be more governable than other instruments. If the boughs are very large you may use a Saw first, and then smooth it with the Chissel.   


〈…〉  Sect. 11.  
You will do well, if your soil be not rich enough, once in three or four years, in the Winter time, to open the Earth for a good space round about the body of each Tree; and about a month after, with some proper manure mixed with what came forth fill up the hole again: but if you Dig or Blow your land, you will have no need to do this so long; and if your Trees were set by tumping, you need not do this till the roots are grown past the ditch that was made about the tump.  
The Water that soaks from a Dunghill is a good thing to enrich the Earth, about the roots of Trees; and if your Orchard chance to lie so, as that it may be sloted with it sometimes, you may do it after this manner.  
Make a little trench along the upper part of the Orchard, and from it cut a small gutter down every row of Trees, take off the upper turf, for half a yards breadth round about every Tree, at about a feet breadth distant from the body; when a rainy day comes, let this soak go down one row, so that (as near as you can) every Tree may enjoy it three or four days at several times in one Winter.  
If your Orchard stand so that you cannot convey this water to the Trees after this manner, you may carry two or three Pale-full to every Tree, twice or thrice a year, and pour it in where the Roots were opened, and against spring put in the old Earth again; when you do this first, stir up with something the bottom of this water, the more to thicken and enrich it.  
This will follow the roots, and enrich Trees more than can be done by Manure, or Dung, so that you suffer the water not to be above a days time at once upon any one Tree.   


〈…〉  Sect. 12.  
Within your Orchard, on the North-side, set the first rows of Pear-trees, or such other Trees, as you know are apt to grow tallest, and the rest Southward, as they decrease in height, as near as you can judge; for so shall all your Trees share in greater measure of the South-Sun, and will be less liable to receive damage by the Northern cold.  
On the outside of your Orchard, if it be not well defended, plant on the North-side two or three rows of Walnut-trees, Chestnut-trees, or some large growing Trees, thicker than is usually done on other accounts, to preserve your Orchard from the Northern air.  
Some are also for Planting a defence on the West side, to help to preserve them from the Autumnal winds, which throw down the Fruit before its ripe.    

CHAP. XI. Of Planting in Fields.  


〈…〉  SECT. 1.  
The benefit of this kind of Planting is apparent in several Countries in England, where it hath been of long and general usage, and in many other Countries, Gentlemen have begun already to imitate them, which should much encourage others to follow; for the more there are that plant, the less particular persons will lose by Thiefs, and where fruit is in great plenty, it is found to be more slighted by idle people; and besides if a Man have store, he will not feel the loss of a little; or it may quit his cost, to have one to cast an eye to them, for a Month's time near ripening; and further yet, Cyder-Apples, Baking-Pears, and Pears for Perry, are so little grateful to the taste, (which pilferers chief aim at pleasing) that he that tastes them once, shall scarcely find his teeth water after them a second time.  
However the benefit of planting in Fields much outweighs these, and all other inconveniences, for by this means you may almost have a double crop on your lands, viz. grass or grain, and your fruit, and the land rather benefited (as the matter may be ordered) than damaged; one of these Trees also sometimes bears as much fruit, as three of the best in a thick planted Orchard; the benefit whereof for sale, or use in a Family for baking, or Liquors, or other uses is known to be so considerable, that I need say no more of it.   


Particularly of Pears.  Sect. 2.  
But because the planting Pear-trees abroad in Fields, is of less reputation generally than the planting other Fruit-trees, I shall here give you sufficient suggestions to take off the Aspersion.  
1. Some Pears do not make so contemptible a liquor, as Perry is commonly reckoned, but very strong, and kept two or three years, drinks to admiration, so that several good Palates, that have drank of it, have not been able to distinguish it well from liquors of more esteem.  
2. Their fruit is not eatable, and so in less danger of Thiefs, in your out-grounds than Apples are.  
3. They will grow on barren land, where Apples will not prosper so well.  
4. They are Trees of long continuance, and often grow to that bigness, and bear so plentifully, that one single Tree will bear fruit enough to make a Hogshead of Perry, sometimes two or three in one year, which would save the expense of much Malt, though the liquor were but mean.   


Seven ways.  Sect. 3.  
There be seven ways of Planting in this kind; I shall set them all down, that every man may use that which best suits with his conveniency, and good liking.  

I. Of Planting whole fields.  1. If your land be in Tillage, you may set fruit-trees at thirty yard's distance from one another, throughout the whole Field, after the manner of an Orchard; and you may go on with your Ploughing, with the loss only of about a yard, or four foot square of land, about every Tree, for twenty years; and when they are grown so big, that you think your Corn receives hurt by the shade, or droppings of the Trees, if you can turn it to Pasture, the Trees will improve most kind of land, by keeping it warm in the Spring, they will make the Grafs grow more early, and by shades in the Summer, preserving it from burning; but the Trees being set at such a distance, the land may continue sit for my purpose for ever, if you dress or prune these Trees higher up than any other, that no boughs may hang in the reach of Cattle, and for the convenience of going about them with your Team, to any work, and thereby the Air and Rain will have free access to the grass, or grain near about them, and the fruit will be safer from common pilferers.  
These need no other fencing than thorns bound about them, and a stake driven in the midst, to keep them from shaking; because you may receive the profit of the Stubble or Fallow, without suffering any large Cattle, that will browse upon them, to come into the ground.   

Sect. 4.  

II. Walks.  Another way of planting fruit-trees in Fields, is by setting walks of them, running through the midst, or along the sides of your Pasture ground, where you have a mind to have walks for ornament: For why we should not plant Fruit-trees for walks, as well as Sycomores, Ash-trees, etc. I know not, there being some sorts of Fruit-trees that will (and almost any kind may be ordered by pruning, so as to) grow very handsome in shape, besides the beauty and sweet smell of the blossoms, and worth of the fruit.  
To prevent damage by Cattle, 
Of Fencing.  if you go this way to work in Field-planting, they must be well grown before you set them; that is, they must be of about six years' growth, and then well fenced: and there are two ways used to save them harmless.  

By Tumping.  1. One much commended is by tumping them; and it is performed thus: Set your Tree in the place designed, almost on the top of the ground, no deeper than to make it stand, though all the roots be not covered, till the tump or mound be raised about it; and then take a line, about a yard and quarter long, tie the one end of it about the Tree, but so that in going round the Tree, with the line strained, it may slip about the Tree as you go, fasten the other end to an iron setter, or stick with a sharp point, and as you go round the tree mark the ground; make then a ditch on the outside of the round score, and lay the turf handsomely, two or three heights, with the grass side outward, so as to make the work full half a yard high; cast the mould out of the ditch, observing to throw the best of it next the roots of the Tree, till you have raised it within, as high as the turf, then prick strong thorns into the mould, that they may lie upon the turf, and point outwards, a yard over the turf; as you place the thorns, put more turf, or fast heavy Earth out of the ditch upon the ends of them, treading it down, the better to six them; and lay the Earth shelving down from the turf towards the Tree, that if rain fall, it may soak towards the roots; if you have any small Thorns, Briers, Furs, or Gorst, lay it on the top of the work finished, round the Tree, and repair all yearly, as you see cause, which may be done with small trouble. The great convenience of this way of setting fruit-trees, will appear in these following Observations.  

Advantages therein.  1. If your land be over moist, this ditch will drain all wet from the roots of the Tree; but if the land be clay, or such that water will stand in, then when you perceive it (which is very rarely) cut some little notch or trench, to let it out.  
2. This way of setting, is commended in dry land; because the Earth of the mound will secure the roots from the heat of the Sun, and every shower of rain will much refresh it, by soaking towards the Tree.  
3. You need not bind your tree to a stake which doth often gall and hurt the Tree, for so much Earth about it will keep it steady.  
4. If your land be stiff, or strong old land, the mound made of it will mellow and improve about the roots, and also by that time the roots spread as far as the ditch, it will be filled up with mould, fallen from the tump, and with sticks, leaves, etc. which will be rotten, lose and good for Trees to root in; and by that time they will need little or no defence, if any at all; a few thorns tied about the bodies of the Trees, to keep Cattle from rubbing against them, will be enough.  
5. The chief benefit of setting Trees thus, is, that where the soil is somewhat too moist or shallow, the Tree being set on the top of the land, will put forth its roots plentifully into the Earth cast up, and thence shoot into the upper turf, and best land, that had been Ploughed and manured before.  
2. The second way of fencing is, 
By Pa●ing.  by erecting, at a foot and half distance one from another, about every tree, three small posts, (if they be sawed they need be but three inches square) or you may use poles, or strait boughs, either whole, or if big enough, cloven in two, three, or four parts, about five foot above the ground in height; being driven into the ground, nail a cross-bar of wood, from each to other, within a hand breadth of the tops of the posts, to which bar, nail a pale, or two, betwixt each two posts, stuck into the ground, or nailed to the like cross bar, within a foot of the bottom of the posts; the way of it may be seen now in divers places, and learned in a minute; but I think what's here said makes it plain enough.  

Where it's requisite.  This is more chargeable than tumping, where timber is scarce, but much more durable than it, and absolutely necessary where Deer, or Rabbits, or any thing that peels the bark of Trees come into the land planted.   


III. By Planting near hedges.  Sect. 5.  
Another way of planting in Fields, (which I have practised successfully) is thus, When you scour a ditch, and cut down or plash an old quick-hedg, than set a row of Trees within a yard of the hedge on that side that is not ditcht, and fence them with half round tumps only on the one side, for the hedge will secure them on the other; and from the cut or plashed hedge, you will commonly have Thorns and Briers enough for the mounds, to fence it as hath been before directed; and at the same time, or in Summer, draw some of the quick thorns, hips, or briers, from the hedge into the fence, about the tump, which will contribute to the strengthening and preserving the dead fence you had made about it before, so that you may be free from trouble about it for ever after.  
There are these advantages in this way of Planting.  

1. The ditch on the outside the hedge, 
Benefits hereby.  drains the ground and makes it healthful.  
2. The ground near the hedge, is commonly very rich, as not having been impoverished by Tillage, but improved, sometimes by the oft scouring of the ditch, and commonly with the dung of Cattle that for shelter, shade, or fodder, repair much thither.  
3. It's not the least hindrance to ploughing, or grass, for the hedge when it's grown up, usually beareth out as far as the tree is set in the field.  
4. And this is much better than planting in the hedg-row, as many do; for in the hedge, when the tree is grown to have a large top, it's apt to weaken the hedge under it; but these being set a little distance from the hedge, and growing (as they will) with the greatest part of their heads from it, will not damage it.  
5. The Fruit will be gathered with much more ease, than of those that are planted in the hedges.  
6. They will not be choked, or hurt by the hedge when it's grown up, but be good handsome, fair Trees.   
You may set these at eight yard's distance, 
Distance.  or nearer being but one single row, and so if but half a field (as usually it falls out) have the ditch on the outside, you may set a considerable number, and find advantage, without damage, and with inconsiderable charge, especially if the ditch stand on the North-side; if you can therefore, choose such hedges.  

Where not good.  This is not to be practised near hedges that are full of great wood, or trees; but if there be but few trees, it's but leaving a vacancy near such trees, and setting your fruit-trees against such places where there grow none in the hedge.   


iv In Hedges.  Sect. 6.  
Another way of planting in Fields is this, If you would Plant without any charge of fencing, you may do it in your Hedges; these Trees must be well grown, and strong, that the hedge choke them not while they are young: And when you plash, or cut down a quick hedge, observe no certain distance, but as it happens where you find it most free from quick, set a tree, and enclose the body in the hedge, but bind not the Etherings too close about it, lest they gall it, and as it groweth, observe what Thorns annoy it and cut them off.   


V By Cuttings.  Sect. 7.  
If you have a mind to set any Cuttings of Gennet-moils, or other Appletrees, that grow of Cuttings, they will prosper very well in, or rather near a hedge; because generally there, the mould is lose and mellow for them to put forth Roots in, and somewhat enriched by the frequent cleansing of the ditch: If you plant them near the hedge, you must a little fence them on the one side, as by the third foregoing direction; but the tumps you raise to set the thorns in, must not be above a foot high, for the cuttings will shoot out their roots, almost to the top of the Earth about them, and a high mound falling down by degrees, some of the best roots may be left bare, or very little Earth upon them.  

Of preparing them.  The way of preparing plants for this purpose, is by circumposition, etc. as is directed in the Chapter of Dwarf-trees.  

Choice and ordering.  Make choice of Cuttings or stems as big as a man's wrist (if you can) towards the lower end, before you set them, prune them out of the reach of Cattle, and leave but little top on them when you set them, neither let them be very long: If the tops be out of the reach of Cattle, it's enough.   


VI By long Crab stocks.  Sect. 8.  
There be some that get long Crab-tree-stocks out of woods, or else dress some up in their Nurseries, to grow tall, and set them in their fields, or hedges, and at three years standing graft them; which may do well, 
Advantage  and is the better approved of, because there needs no removal after they are graffed; but some inconvenience there is in this way: 
Disadvantage.  The long stocks, out of woods, being commonly very old, their bark thick, their roots big, they thrive but indifferently; and those raised in Nurseries will seldom be taper grown, or strong enough to bear a large top well, after they are graffed so high as they ought, being set in fields: You will also be longer in raising stocks to that height, and any considerable strength (as is necessary for this purpose) than in raising trees, if your stocks be graffed young in your Nursery, because they thrive more after graffing than before.  
And in both cases if you graft them high, the stocks will be continually putting forth sprouts of their own kind below the place they were graffed at, which will require frequent cutting off. If you graft them not very high, you will find it difficult to defend them from the nipping of Cattle, and from the Cyens being broke out of the stock by some casualties or other, to which they are more exposed in fields that lie common to Cattle, than Nurseries that are enclosed.   


VII. By Gra●●●● old Crabtrees.  Sect. 9  
The last way I shall speak of, is that which is most used in the planting Countries, and that is, by graffing such Crabtrees, as grow in the hedges, or grounds, and this is the speediest way to have fruit; because the big Trees have bodies already, and in four or five years' time (well ordered) will have good tops to bear; and if you graft small stocks in your ground that have grown of their own accord there, and fence them, they will speedily bring on graffs, being so well rooted.  

A mischief used herein.  I have seen many cut off the tops of old Crabtrees and Appletrees, and graft the body or trunk, but the Cyens could never cover the heads of those stocks, and by that time the top was a little grown up, the body was ready to perish with rottenness.  

Necessary directions.  The best way for big Crabtrees (or if you would change the kind of any Fruit-trees) is to graft them in the boughs, where they are not bigger than a man's arm, making use of none but those that grow handsome, at convenient distance one from another, cutting off the others smooth and even, close to the body of the tree.  
To do this, that Winter that you cut, or plash a hedge, order the workmen to trim up, but not to lop or top the Crabtrees, unless it be the tops of the boughs, half a yard or more, above the place you intent to graft them at, and then in March following, saw off the heads at proper places, and graft them.  

Of graffing 〈◊〉 in the Cleft.  Many are for graffing these in the cloven, because they think the Cyen hath better hold, and will not be so subject to be broke out by the wind, as those graffed in the bark; but I have seen those in the cloven broke out by the wind, neither could I ever find that the wood of the Cyens in the cloven, did ever cement with the wood of the stock, but only on the outside as the others do: And those in the cleft are not so apt to grow all of them, nor to make so great a growth as those in the bark; 
In the B●●….  which with a little wariness may be preserved from danger of wind, and full as much care must be had about those graffed in the cloven, if you will preserve them all from the same prejudice.  

〈◊〉 to be observed.  I have been used to observe the following difference in graffing these great boughs from all the forementioned varieties of graffing, and look upon it as a thing well worthy to be taken notice of and observed.  

In s●itting 〈…〉  When you have prepared the Cyen, as you are directed to do, when you graft in the bark, apply it to the place you design to put it in, and slit the bark of the bough through, on both sides, the Cyen close to it, beginning at the top of the bough, and not carrying the slits much above half the length of the slope of the Cyens, separate that little portion of the bark between the two slits, from the wood with your instrument, thrusting it a little lower than the slits, to let in the Cyens as far as it is sloped, and then stick the Cyen in, having first taken off from the edges of the Cyen any unevenness (not cutting through the bark) that all may the better sit together; and you may put in two, three, or four Cyens in every head, having respect to the bigness of it; or you may in the biggest put in two Cyens in the cloven, and two others in the bark, doing one of the later on the Westside of it, for then the wind blowing it towards the head, is not so apt to break it out, as if it drove it from the head; bind the heads, and clay them as you heard before, and continue so to do yearly till the heads are almost covered.  

Of preserving them f●om injures.  At the first claying, stick in feathers or long escures, to prevent birds lighting on the Cyens.  
In July following (whether you graft these big stocks in the cloven or bark) pick off most of the leaves of the Cyens, and cut off such sprigs, as growing inward will make the head thick, and all stragleing out-boughs, that the wind may not have so much force upon them, to break the branches out of the stocks.  

Of 〈…〉.  Cut off also some of the biggest shoots, the Crabtree puts forth of its own kind; but for the first three years you must not cut off all, lest the Tree not having liberty to vent all the sap that cometh up, furfeit and die, the small graffs not being able to receive near so much sap, as the old top did the year before.  
Thus many Countrymen when they take off the whole head of an old Oak, have sometimes found it die; and therefore in some Countries they leave one big bough to grow for one year, to draw up the sap, (as they term it) whereas it is indeed that the sap may have liberty to vent itself; for Trees that have a thick bark, as old Oaks have, when all the small boughs are cut off, are long in putting forth branches; and difficultly at last put forth so many, as will spend the sap which comes up the Tree in some proportion, to what it did the year before, when the whole top was on; which sap being chief in the greatest channel, betwixt or near the bark and outside of the body of the Tree, and not being vented, is either dried or consumed by the heat of the Sun, or putrisies for want of that continual motion that is in it, when it hath vent, that several trees die of this disease; and when trees die this way, the bark will drop off from the body of them sooner by some years than otherwise.  
Hence it is that you may kill a Tree, by lopping off the whole top in the Summer time, or so much of it, that the remaining boughs cannot receive all the sap, but lieth choked up for want of issue.  
The second Summer you ought to bind some hay-ropes about the lower part of the Cyens; I have not seen need of repeating this the third Summer, but if done it will the more certainly secure them from breaking by the wind.  
And thus I have ended what I had to say of Field-planting, and have been the more large in it, because I have not seen it any where else taught without much imperfection, and many defects; and indeed not much more than mentioned, rather than treated of.    

CHAP. XII. Of the annoyances about Fruit-trees.  


Of Moss and Canker.  SECT. 1.  
The nature of the soil is the chief cause of Moss and Canker, and therefore without altering the one, you can scarce prevent the other; However you may scrape or with a haircloth rub the moss off, after rain, or (as some say) burn it with a bottle of straw under the Tree.  
All Canker, filth, and worms must be picked clean off, and bind some clay well mixed with hay about the cankered place: If the Tree grow but poorly, which is for the most part caused by the ill temper of the soil, open the ground about the roots, and put in some manure proper to cure it.  

Bark boand.  Slitting the bark is an excellent additional help to most of the aforesaid evils, and also for bark-binding, some advice that the bark be cut according to the grain of it, as in Appletrees, Pear-trees, etc. strait down; in Cherries, 
Some Trees prosper where others will not.  etc. round about the Trees.  
But I have found in the same land, some kinds of Fruit-trees very subject to some of these evils, and others prosper very well; when once you discover this, (because it's utterly in vain to make ground and trees, of different genius agree together) you must make it your business by degrees, to change your Trees, till you have left none against which your soil beareth such an implacable hatred, and furnish it with such as will flourish, and be fruitful.  

Bark galled.  If any of your Trees are galled, by being bound to stakes, or by thorns, or otherwise, lay some clay upon the galled place and wrap hay-hands about them.  

Dead tops.  Big Plants also, that upon their removal have had their tops cut off, are apt to die from the place they were cut off at, to the next sprig, or branch upon them; these dead parts ought to be cut off close to the next good twig or shoot, and covered with clay, as in graffing, that the head may be well grown over, by such twig or shoot, and the wet prevented off getting into the pith, to the damage of the Tree.   


Hares and Coneys.  Sect. 2.  
Hares and Rabbits are very mischievous to Nurseries, and young Orchards, by peeling off the bark of the Plants: If your fence be a wall, or close pale, or water, there's little danger of them; but because such fences about Orchards are rare, and no other can keep them out, some expedient must be made use of.  
Some have used Hay-ropes, 
Hay-ropes.  bound about the Tree, from the ground to a sufficient height; but this were endless in a Nursery, it may be done in an Orchard; but there are other ways to be preferred before it.  
Others therefore dawb the bodies of the Trees over with Tar, 
Tar.  which being used alone, endangers the life of very young Plants, and extremely hardens the bark, and otherwise hurts them, which evil is prevented by mixing the Tar with any kind of Grease, 
Tar and Grease.  and boiling them on a fire, so as both may incorporate, then with a brush, or little broom, daub over the body of the Tree, as high as a Hare or Rabbit can reach; and if this be done in November, it will preserve the Trees for that whole year, with that once doing, it being the winter time only that they will feed upon the bark.  
Some use Grease alone, 
Grease.  and then it may require to be laid on twice in a Winter.  

Man's dung.  Some thin stuff out of a House of Office, or the thick tempered with water, and brushed on, once in a Winter hath been often used with good success.   

Sect. 3.  

Pismires.  If you find Pismires, or Aunts breed about, or near the roots of any of your Trees, cast away the Earth they lodge in, and supply its place with some stiff clay; if they breed distant in several places, some direct to dawb the Tree about with Tar, that their feet may be taken in it; but you heard already that's prejudicial to young Trees; but if they pester you extremely, and your Tree be young, you may bind a single list, or shred of Cloth about it, and once aweek (when buds and blossoms are putting forth, for that is the chief time they prejudice them) daub the Cloth over with Tar.   

Sect. 4.  

Moles.  Moles are to be killed, especially in Seed-plots and Nurseries; Spring-traps, or Box-traps are best to destroy them, not easily described, but are now know almost generally.  
I have heard that Water-Rats will spoil a whole Nursery, 
Water-rats.  getting through Mole-holes, and barking or eating the young roots: I found several roots once so served; and it being near a Fishpond, I suspected it was done by them; but finding also a Snake in a hole among the Roots, 
Snakes.  I knew not whether that might not be the Enemy.  

Ests, or Askers.  Ests, or (as some call them) Askers, are also said to be pernicious to Trees; but these three last accidents are so rare and inconsiderable, that it's needless to labour much about remedies against them, only as men find them to destroy them.   


Blast, Caterpillars.  Sect. 5.  
The greatest prejudice to fruit, is by blast, frosts immediately succeeding rain, Caterpillars, or black Flies, that cat up buds, leaves, and blossoms: There's one way used to help in all these cases, for Orchard fruit; but I know not how it should be useful for any but the last two, for which I dare commend it: And that is, that when in the Spring you perceive these Caterpillars, or Flies appear, make fires of something that will smoak, so near the Orchard, and in such places that the wind may carry the smoke as much through the Trees as may be. 
Smoak.  A thing frequently used is Hempsheaves, (as it's called) being the stalk of the Hemp, when the tow is separated from it, and it's certainly very good; but bad Chaff, wet Straw, or moldy Hay, or any thing of that nature may serve turn.  
Snails are pernicious to Wall-fruit, 
Snails.  therefore destroy as many of them as you can, when they are best to be discovered, which is early in the morning.  

Cover wall-fruit.  And to preserve your Wall-fruit from blasting winds and Frosts; it will be necessary to cover them in the nights, and cold days by hanging before them Mats or Blankets: some stick branches of broom before the blossoms and young tender fruit.  
To preserve ripe fruit from birds, 
Birds.  spread an old Net before the Wall-fruit, or upon the Dwarf-trees.    

CHAP. XIII. Some particular Rules about some kinds of Fruit-trees besides the general rules already mentioned.  


Of Vines.  SECT. 1.  
Grapes seldom or never ripen well in this Isle, without help of art and industry, to which purpose take these directions.  
1. To plant such as ripen soon in the year, that they may have as much of the summer heat at ripening time as may be.  
2. Let the wall you plant them against, be a full South, or but a little inclining to the East; or if you have a half-round, or corner in a wall, or the back of a brick Chimney, make use of such places for them.  

Of low Walls.  Vines will prosper well against a high wall, yet that is not altogether so necessary but that low walls may serve turn, and the higher may be reserved for such fruit-trees as will not do well without them: That of a Tarras-walk may do well for Vines, and the gravel-walk under the wall will mightily increase the heat about them.  

Narrow places in Walls.  If you plant any Trees against your dwelling House-wall, there may be some narrow places between two Windows, or the like, where other fruit-trees have not room to spread: A Vine may grow up there, and above those narrow places enlarge itself where ever it meets with room.  

Betwixt Fruit trees.  You may also plant a Vine betwixt every fruit-tree that groweth against your hottest walls, and let it spread a little in the Summer time into the Fruit-trees on either side, especially if the fruit of such Trees use to be early ripe, or that they bear little Fruit, or have not been so long set as to have covered the wall. And though such Vines cannot extend themselves to that bigness, as those planted where they have more room; yet by this means you will make advantage of such portions of your wall, as otherwise you could have had little benefit from.   


Proper Soil.  Sect. 2.  
The best ground for them is that which is rich and dry, inclinable to stony or gravel, so it bind not; the best dung to fatten the Earth they grow in is Horse or Sheep's dung: Make bare the roots in the beginning of Winter, and throw in plenty of the same dung most Winters.  

Way of propagating.  The best way of propagating of them is, in November to lay a branch of that years growth into the Earth, under the old Tree, without cutting it off, lay as many joints or buds in the Earth as you can, leaving but one or two out; for it puts forth its roots chief at the joints; at a years end or in the February cometwelve-month cut it off from the old one, and plant it where you design it should grow, lay it in the Earth in the same posture it lay in before, and also lay some of the buds of the new wood, that grew out since it was first laid down, that it may gain the more roots, leaving out of the ground again not above one or two buds.  
You may chance to have suckers of an old Vine which will be sure to grow. 
Suckers.   
Or you may take Cuttings of Vine branches of that years growth, 
Cuttings.  and set them in good warm lose land, and many will grow; if it be in the place you intent they shall always stand in, next year lay down a part of that which hath grown out, to root also, or else upon removal lay in the new growth all but a bud or two, with that part which is already rooted; If it have made but small growth the first year, lay part of the second years growth in the ground, it will more advantage them by helping them to good roots, than the loss of a year or two's growth in the top will amount to.  

Cure an old Vine.  If you have an old Vine, that beareth not well, lay down in February, or March some of the strongest branches of the foregoing year, (that grow low) in the mould under the old Tree, without cutting them off, leaving out of the ground a bud or two to grow, and your wall will quickly be furnished with new, and fresh branches; so that by degrees you may cut off many of the old branches of the Vine; for though one Vine may cover abundance of walling, yet three or four roots in that compass will strengthen it the more to bear.   


Of pruning.  Sect. 3.  
As Vines stand in more need of pruning than other Fruit-trees, so great care is to be taken in the performing of it; when you have set your Vine, as you have been before directed, so that not above two buds of it remain above ground, you are to nail up such branches, as grow forth up to the wall, till it have overspread as much wall as you design for it, suffering not above two branches to grow from the ground, and snipping yearly the tops of the branches a considerable length, as far as they are weak and tender, and also all small poor ones, close to the body, unless the well liking branches be but few, and then you may leave the lowest bud of some of them, to grow forth next year, and this you are to do towards the end of February, or beginning of March yearly.  
When your Vine comes to bear, you are to use your knife about it three times in the year.  
1. 
Time.  In February or the beginning of March you are to prune off part of the foregoing years shoots, where they are too thick, close to the old wood. As it enriches your Vine to keep it thin of branches, so you must take care it be well stored with buds against the spring following, for it bears Grapes only on the new shoots of every year; and in cutting off these branches, you must take care your wall continue furnished with such branches as may be spread upon the wall regularly and decently, not thick in one place and thin in another, nor crossing one another.  
2. The next time to take off superfluities from your Vine, is about Midsummer, when the Grapes are knit, clip off then the end of the branches that have Grapes on them, a little above the Grapes, that they may have the more nourishment, and keep them nailed to the wall, as also barren branches where the wall needs them.  
3. The last time of cutting is in August, for then because leaves and branches may be so thick, as to keep the heat of the Sun from the Grapes, which is necessary to ripen them, you may pluck off some of the leaves, and cut off some of the branches to open way for the Sun to come to them.  
There's one thing to be observed in the pruning these peculiar to it, 
Place.  That whereas others are cut at a bud, the branches of these must be cut off near the midst, betwixt two buds, and that not later in the year, than the beginning of March, for afterward the sap or juice will run out, and the Vine will be much weakened by bleeding: 
Bleed.  You will by that time also see what the Frost of the Winter foregoing hath killed, which must be taken all away.  
If Frosts come before any Grapes are ripe, 
Frosts.  defend them in the night time with Til●s or Mats.   

Sect. 4.  

Vineyard.  It's scarce worth while to have a Vineyard here in England; there having begn many, and now so few, affords a strong Argument to prove that attempts of that kind never turn to account: The usage of the People in such cases being of no small authority.  
It's possible that persons that have very warm ground, well situated, with care and industry, may some years have good Grapes without the benefit of a wall. I have seen, not far from Bristol, in a year that was very favourable to them, Grapes ripen well without such help.   

Sect. 5.  

Figtree.  Figtrees ought to be planted in a very warm place, against a wall, defended from the North and North-East wind; every old Tree will yield plenty of suckers, fit to raise new ones.   

Sect. 6.  

Quince-tree.  You have seen the way of raising Quince-trees, in the Chapter of Dwarves; I shall here only add, that if you have a part of a Tree, that groweth so low, that you can bring it to the ground, either by plashing or otherwise, you may do it in the beginning of Winter, and cover it all with Earth but the ends of the branches, and let it continue so one year, and then uncover it, and every twig will have put forth roots in the Earth, which being cut off and transplanted, will make you a tree.  
And this is the way of propagating of Fruit-trees by layers; 
Layers.  and you may here take notice, that all such Trees that may be propagated by Cuttings, may be raised likewise by Layers, and this way takes more sure than by Cuttings.  
Quince-trees delight in a moist rich Land; 
Soil.  near some gutter that carries away the soak or wash of a Dunghill, or House, is a place usually chosen for them, and is such as they like very well in.   

Sect. 7.  

Medlar-tree.  Medlars are raised by graffing on the Pear-tree, Crabtree, White-thorn or Service-tree, the last is the best, and the White-thorn by much the worst.  
You may get Plants of Services out of woods, 
Service-tree.  where they grow wild, from which you may raise Service-trees, or stocks for Medlars, or if you can get none such, graft the Service on the Wickey-berry-tree, or the White-thorn.   

Sect. 8.  

Wallnut-trees.  Wallnut-trees are much Planted of late, and are very proper for walks in grounds and a good fence to shelter Buildings and Orchards; the fruit is useful, and very profitable if you can spare any to sell, or for Oil for Painters if the market should be glutted with them; and the Timber so excellent for Tables, Chairs, and Stools, stooking of Guns, etc. that it goes off well, and takes a good price.  

way of raising.  They are raised by Nuts, gathered from the same Trees, if you can let them have their green husks on them, for the bitterness thereof will defend the kernels from being eaten by worms before they spring up; but you must chief respect their full ripeness, at which time they are apt to shed their husks: You may either set them as they come immediately from the Tree, or keep them in the sand till March.  

Soil and transplanting.  Set them in rich dry warm Land, and when you transplant them, set them as speedily as you can after taking up, and cut off little of the roots, but by no means the tap or heart-root, (as in other Trees) and top them not at all if you can help it; but if the Tree be so tall, crooked, or dead at the top before removal, that you must put a peg, or some soft wax into the pith-pole, or cover the cut with clay, that wet may not get in, and make it die downward, because these Trees have a large pith; when you do cut off the top, do it, if you can, at a side branch or sprig, and that will spread under the clay, and cover the tops again. You may cut off many side branches when you transplant them.  
No Cattle will bronze or peel them, 
Fencing.  by reason of their bitterness; so that a fence that will preserve them from Cattles rubbing against them is sufficient.  
They will grow well in a lose, 
Soil.  gravelly, stony, or almost rockey land, and best where they are at first set without being removed; 
Plant without 〈◊〉  to which end you may in such a hillock as is spoken of in Field-planting (but not so broad nor so high) set three, or four Nuts, or more, and about two years after they are grown up, pluck up gently all but one of them, that is likely to make the best Tree.  
I have seen Chestnut-trees grow in England to be very large, 
Chestnut-trees.  and bear good Fruit on a hot, dry land; They are excellent for a defence from winds, and better than Walnut-trees, but of much slower growth. It's not good to top them, as some do when they transplant them.  

way of raising.  They are raised by setting Nuts, that are come fresh from beyond Sea, at the end of the year; or from good Nuts well ripened in England, which you may set with the husks on, when they are fallen, or rather kept in Sand till the great Frosts are over: These Trees grow best likewise without being ever removed; some say they will grow well being graffed upon Oakes, Beech, or Walnut-trees.  
The Horse-Chesnut groweth of Layers, and makes delicate Trees for Avenues.  

Filbeards, Nuts.  Filbeards and Hazle-nuts, worthy to be planted in Orchards, or Gardens are raised from Nuts set in the Earth, or Suckers from the roots of an old Tree, or may be graffed on the common Hazelnut.   

Sect. 9  
Mulberry-trees are raised by Suckers, Layers, or Cuttings.  

Goosberies, Currans, Barberries, and Raspberries.  Goosberries, Currants, Barberries, and Raspberries are raised by Suckers, of which you may have plenty about the roots of old Trees.  
When they have grown some years, suffer not many suckers to grow about them, nor cut the tops to a round close bush, as many Gardeners do; whereby they grow so thick, that they neither hear nor ripen their Fruit so well as if they grew taller and thinner.    

CHAP. XIV. Of the several kinds of Fruits.  


Of choice of Fruit-trees.  SECT. 1.  
As to Wall-fruit and Dwarves, if the Planter have convenient room, he ought not only to have one, or two Trees of each good kind, but also some of that which is but indifferent, that is ripe, or will keep good at such time, when better eating fruit is not to be had; and more of lasting winter fruit than of summer or any one sort.   


Of Peaches.  Sect. 2.  
Of Peaches the first and soon ripe is the White-Nutmeg, next to that the Red-Nutmeg, next to that the Troy which is ripe almost assoon and a better Fruit; next ripe are The 

Izabella  
Savoy  
Early Newington  
Bordeaux  
Old Newington  
Violet-Muscat  
Persian  
Modena  
Morello  
Rumbullian  
Scarlet  
Bellice  
Royal   Peach.  
These are accounted excellent kinds of Peaches, and there are many other good sorts besides these; and so there are of Apples, Pears, etc. more than I have mentioned in this tract; for I think it not necessary to trouble either the Reader, or myself with them here, but only to mention some choice Fruit of every kind, and leave every one to please his own fancy, and store himself with them, or others, as he approves them and hath convenience so to do.   


Of Nectarines.  Sect. 3.  
The best Nectarines, are The 

Red-Roman  
Murry  
Tawny  
Paper-white   Nectarines.  
There are others though worse sorts, as The 

Yellow  
Painted  
Russet  
Red   Nectarines.  
The Algiers is commended by some, because it parts easily from the stone.   


Of Apricocks.  Sect. 4.  
Amongst Apricocks the Algiers and Masculine are first ripe: The Turkey is much commended, so is the Orange, the white Apricock is also accounted better than the common.   


Of Plums.  Sect. 5.  
Plums to be preferred before others are as follow; The red and blue Primordian as being first ripe, though not so good Fruit as several following;  
The next ripe, The 

Morocco  
Merabolen  
Violet  
Apricock  
Barbary  
Black and  
Green Damascene  
Prunella  
Queen Mother  
Kings  
Matchless  
Black-Pear-Plum  
Peascod  
Bonum Magnumque  
Cheston  
Marbled  
Imperial  
Nutmeg  
Turkey   Plum.  
These you may set to a wall, though most of them will bear well, being Dwarves or Standards if you have not wall enough.  
The White-pear-plum, Prune, Damsons, and Verdock, are good Preserving Plums.  
The 

Muscle  
Wheat  
Lammas   Plum, 

Bullice,  
Damsons,   and several course Plums are raised by Suckers, without graffing or inoculating, and may be set in Orchards, Hedges, or any common places.   


Of Cherries.  Sect. 6.  
The May Cherry is first ripe, and should have a good wall to expedite its ripening, for though they are but ordinary Fruit, yet their earliness makes them a rarity. Next ripe are The 

Duke  
Flanders  
Red-heart  
Lukeward  
Bleeding-heart  
Spanish-black  
Naples  
Carnation  
Amber   Cherry.  
The great bearing Cherry of Milan, and Morella are blackish when ripe and blood-red within, excellent to make Cherry Wine, affording a strong and vinous liquor.  
These two last and the Prince-Royal are good to Preserve.  
If you have not room upon your walls, these will bear well in any warm place, planted as standards.  
Those that you find put forth small twigs, and have a small, dark, green leaf, are easiliest kept Dwarf-trees.   


Of Grapes.  Sect. 7.  
The first ripe Grapes are the small Black, or Cluster Grape, next the Muskadine red and white, the two sorts of Frontiniacks.  
The 

Muscat  
Grape de Arbois  
Raison of the Sun  
Red Orleans  
Burlet  
Parsley   Grape.   


Of Pears.  Sect. 8.  
Pears are of very many kinds, and are much improved by being Planted against walls. In France they are accounted among their best Fruit, and the best kinds do well deserve it.  
The Summer and Winter-Bon-Cristien, growing pendent, are sitter for a wall, than to be Planted of Standards, the Winter will keep till May, and is a very choice Pear.  
The 

Bury de Roy  
Violet  
Dove  
Great-Musk  
Amadote  
Rousellet  
Messier-Jaen  
Great-Soveraign  
Blood  
Windsor  
Green-field  
Dionier  
Great-Burgamot  
Virgalous   Pear.  
Double-flowered keeps till May, not fit to eat till March. These do well planted against a wall: If you have not wall-room enough, such as grow with small twigs, or almost any, graffed on Quince-stocks, may be kept Dwarves.  
The Winter and Summer Burgamots may also make Dwarves.  
Meat Pears for Standard-trees in common Orchards are such as follow, both for Summer and Winter Fruit.  
The 

Hill  
Primating  
White and Red  
Geneting  
Green-Chissel  
Pearl  
Sovereign  
Orange  
Katherine  
Anthony  
Sugar  
Pimp  
Berry  
Poppering  
Dedman's  
Scarlet  
Prick  
Royal  
Nonsuch  
Kings  
Ladies-buttock  
Muscat  
Oak  
Virgin  
Ice  
Gascoin-Burgamot  
Winter Poppering  
Little Dagobert  
Great Kair ville  
Long Burgamot   Pear.  
With divers others, each Country affording variety.  
The Slipper and the Lewis Pears are good to dry.  
In Fields you may set Baking Pears, and Perry-Pears.  
For Baking.  
The 

Norwich  
Black Worcester  
Quince-pear  
Bishops  
Arundel  
Bell  
Painted   Pear.  
Also Wardens of several sorts very good.  
For Perry. The Red and White Horse Pear. There are also divers other wild or Choke Pears, whereof the red-coloured yield the strongest liquors. The Bosbery, and Bare-land Pears are by much the best I have known or heard of: and the Tree of the first of these two kinds groweth to that bigness, that it will bear fruit to make one, two, or three Hogsheads of Perry in one year: I could tell you several stories to set forth its excellence when it's two or three years old. The tree will prosper on almost any base Land.   


Of Apples.  Sect. 9  
Apples are seldom planted against a wall: A man had best furnish himself with the choicest of these following, for Table-fruit, by making them Dwarves in his Garden, or larger Trees in a secure Orchard, being tempting Fruit, and some of them early ripe.  
The 

Juniting  
Flax  
King  
Margaret or  
Magdalen  
Golden Russeting  
Spice  
Summer Queening  
Go no further  
Royal  
Golden Pippen  
Good-Huswife  
Giant  
Pomewater  
Summer Pearmain  
Bellaboon   Apple.  
There are also some of special account in their respective Countries;  
The 

Stocking Apple in Herefordshire.  
Darling in Cheshire.  
Golden Rennating in Hartfordshire, etc.  
Angels-bit in Worcestershire.  
Kirton Pippen in some part of Northamptonshire.  
Harvy-Apple in Cambridgshire.    
These next following are good Winter Apples, or such as may be planted in Orchards.  
The 

Winter-Pearmain  
Winter-Queening  
Quince-Apple  
Nonsuch  
John-Apple.  
Leather-coat  
Winter-reed  
Golden Doucet  
Lones Pearmain  
Westbury  
Pome-Roy  
Lording hath little Core  
July-Flower  
Pear-Apple   Apple.  
The 

Flower of Kent  
Parsly  
Winter-Chesnut  
Maligar  
Red-fennel  
Short-tart  
Russeting   Apple.  
There are divers kinds of Pippens, I have heard of eighteen several sorts, those of them I know are so good, I can scarcely tell which to prefer.  
There are also several sorts of Renating, very choice good Apples.  

〈…〉 of Winter Apples.  In Planting Winter-fruit, the best course is to Plant several Trees of some few of the best kinds, after you have found what sort prosper in your soil best; for many sorts will be troublesome in the gathering, and keeping them severally when you have done.  
Long lasting and fair Apples will adorn your Table, and yield most prosit.  

Of Cyder-fruit.  For Cyder-fruit the Redstrake, and Brombery-Crab have the general pre-eminence, the last of which is not ready for grinding till almost Christmas.  
The Jennet Moil was once accounted the best, and still many Gentlemen that are Cyder-Masters prefer it, and preserve it for their own drinking.  
The white and red Must-Apples make a Cider very good, to be drunk about Christmas next following the season of making Cider. The Tree is of quick and large growth, a good bearer, and twelve or fourteen Bushel or Strikes of them will make a Hogshead of Cider.  
The Winter Queening is not commonly used for Cider, yet it yields a strong and vinous Liquor; but so dry a fruit, that near twenty four Bushels will go to make one Hogshead. The fruit must not be ground till very late in the year.  
The Golden Pippen is said to make an admirable and restaurative Cider.  
Pippens and Pearmains mixed, are much used, and Pippens alone, make a strong and wholesome Liquor.  

Of planting several kinds.  Some are apt to object, That since one or two kinds of Fruit may be had very good for Cider, what occasion is there to Plant of so many sorts?  
For answer, They will find it advantageous to have several sorts of Fruit for Cider, if they consider,  
1. One sort of Fruit-trees may, and do bear one year, when another fails.  
2. Cider made of some kinds, will be ready to drink sooner than of others, and thereby you may have it successively ready for your use. The Must-Cyder may be clear a month after making: The Jennet Moil, a quarter of a year after: The Redstrake, near half a year after, though it's much improved by longer keeping.  
3. You may make your Cider with more ease, the Fruits you make it of ripening one after another.  
4. Though some Fruit yield not so good Cider as others; yet the Trees may be quicker of growth, bear more plentifully, and last longer than those that yield better: And the Palates of men being various, some like one sort, and some another, and so all may be pleased.  
5. Some Fruit-trees agree with the Soil and Climate better than others, which you will not be able to know till you have made trial of several.   


Of Quinces.  Sect. 10.  
Of Quinces there are some sorts, though not many, somewhat different from each other.  
The Portugal-Apple and Pear-Quince, are held to be the best, and are the largest.  
The Barbary Quince is good but smaller.  
The Lions and Brunswick, are also good Fruit.  
The English is the most stony.   


Of Walnuts.  Sect. 11.  
There are several sorts of Walnuts, some being larger, others thinner shelled than the common, but differing so little one from another, that Men have not much minded giving them names. The largest sort is usually called the French Walnut.  

Of Chestnuts.  The best Chestnuts among us, are those that come from beyond Sea; but of those that grow with us, some are larger than others, without any difference worth observation.  

Of Filbeards.  There are two sorts of Filbeards, distinguished by the colour of the skin of their kernels; the one being red, and the other white.  
There is another sort called the Filbeard of Constantinople; the leaves and fruit of which, are bigger than either of the former.  
And there is besides these an excellent large plump Nut, that hath a very good kernel, the best of which have a very thin shell.   


Of Figs.  Sect. 12.  
Figs are a Fruit that agree with English Palates and Soils much alike, there being few that affect them. Among the several sorts of them, there are two of chiefest note among us. The great Blue Fig which is most common, and the Dwarf blew Fig, that is sooner ripe▪ and better tasted.  

Of Medlars.  There are three or four sorts of Medlars, the biggest sort is best, without any thorns upon the branches, as the common hath: There is another kind also without stones in the Fruit.  

Of Services.  There are two sorts of Services, one larger than the other, that groweth wild in the wood; but neither the sorts of these, nor of Medlars are distinguished by Names, and the fruit of both is not eatable till they are rotten.   


Of Mulberries.  Sect. 13.  
Mulberries are distinguished by their colours, for there are black, red, and white.  

Of Goosberries.  There is some variety in Goosberries likewise; the best sorts are the Amber, and great Hedgehog Goosberry, which is prickly, but the other smooth, both of a bright, yellow colour, and the white Holland Goosberry which is large and transparent; there are likewise some that are of a blue, others of a red, and others of a green colour.  

Of Currans.  The white and red Currants of the largest size, are the best sorts of that kind of Fruit; the great dark-red Dutch-Curran is largest, and hath a sweet relish; some persons affect the common black Curran.  

Of Raspberries.  There's scarcely any other difference found among Raspberries, but that some are red, and some white.  

Of Barberries.  And the like difference is to be found among Barberries, but some are without Stones.    

CHAP. XV. Of Gathering Fruit, and making several sorts of liquors of them.  


Hurt not the Trees.  SECT. 1.  
In gathering of Fruit, be careful the branches of your Trees be not battered and broken.  

How to gather Fruit for keeping.  Such as you design to keep any time, ought not to be shaked off the Trees because of bruising; but picked off with your hands. Be sure the Fruit you gather be throughly ripe; which you may know by its beginning to drop, or the kernels turning black: Let the weather be fair and dry when you gather, and no dew upon the Trees. Lay up what you thus gather in a close, but sweet room, upon a boarded-floor, without any green leaves, or sticks among them.  

Of preserving.  If you have some Pears, that are choice and lasting, wrap them up in Paper, and lay them one by one upon a shelf, or hang them up by the stalks, and keep out the air from them as much as you can.  
As you find any in your heaps rot, pick them out; and in a sharp Frost, cover them with a Straw Mat.  
In gathering Cider Fruit you must be sure to let them be well ripe, then let them be gently shaken down, and laid upon a sweet and dry floor, in a heap, and there lie a fortnight. The Red-strake, and harder Apples you may let lie longer, (that is) three weeks or a month; the longer they lie, the less Cider indeed they will yield, but much the better, it being necessary to have them as ripe as may be, so that too many of them begin not to rot; some are for picking out the rotten ones before you grind them; others say a few rotten Apples do no hurt, but rather good, in helping the liquor to ferment.   


Of a Ladder.  Sect. 2.  
And because I am here speaking of gathering Fruit, I shall give you the description of a Ladder, convenient to be used both in getting the fruit off young trees, and pruning them, they not being strong enough to bear an ordinary Ladder without harm.  
Take a Board like the head of a joint-stool, but thicker; let there be joined to it a Ladder (of what length you judge convenient, having respect to the height of your Trees) with such Irons as it may ply to and fro, and at the other end, let two feet of equal length with the Ladder, be put in so as they may stand wider at the bottom than the top. See the Figure.   


Of an Engine, or Mill for grinding fruit.  Sect. 3.  
Of many sorts of Fruits may be made very noble and delicious liquors for drinking, by separating the juice from the feculent parts of them, which is performed by Pounding, or Grinding them, by such instruments as were to be had: But lately hath been found out an Engine, incomparably more commodious for this work, than any thing ever known before; many of which are already dispersed throughout the Kingdom, made according to the first model: But they have lately received so vast an improvement, that they seem now quite another Invention, and to want nothing to their perfection. The Inventor had a Patent for them, the property of which is now in one Mr. Henry Allen, at the sign of the Cabinet in Exeter-street, on the back of Exeter-Change in the Strand in London, who makes them himself, and licenses any Artists in the Country, to do the same upon reasonable terms. Any that are near London may have the Engine with the Frame, those that live more remote, may have the Engine alone, with directions how to make the frame. The price of this Mill is from 4l. to 10l. according as it is in bigness, or for curiosity of work. The excellencies of it are, That it takes up so little room, no more than two yards square: It grinds according to the bigness of it, from 50 to 20 Bushel an hour, with the labour only of one man, the feeding of it now being contrived with a little assistance of another. It performs the work better than any thing else. And lastly, It grinds all manner of Fruit with a little alteration in setting of it.   

Sect. 4.  
Other Authors have given directions about making liquors, of several sorts of Fruit; but that he that hath this Book may not be troubled to seek for them any where else, and because I can truly pretend to exactness in this particular, no less than (I believe) I have justly done in all that went before; and withal having guided the Reader in the way to get choice Fruit, before I take leave with him, I shall in the last place, instruct him how to order it, and how to make use of it.  

Of ●●king O●der.  In grinding, or pounding and pressing their Fruit, every one may be safely left to the custom or convenience of his Country, but the management of the liquor after it is pressed out is of great importance; Thus therefore you must proceed, When your Apples are ground, or pounded sufficiently, and the liquor pressed forth, strain it immediately through a sieve, and tun it up in a Hogshead or Barrel, seasoned and sweet; fill it not up by two gallons at least, and stop it up only with a lose stopper for two or three days, and then stop it up close with clay on the top, and put a cork, or some stopper in the vent hole; but for a weeks time or more, you may once a day draw it forth a little, lest it break the vessel, or force some other vent; then stop it close up also, and so let it stand till you think it may be something clear; and then pierce it to try how it fines; the Summer Fruit after a Month, the Moil after the first Frosts, the Redstrake not till after January; other Winter-fruit Cider about the same time.  

Of sinning Cider by racking.  If your Cider be not fine at the times aforementioned, try them again about a month after; and than if it be not fine, rack it off, as you would do Wine, setting another vessel in a convenient place, that through a pipe of Leather, or a Siphon, or Crane of some metal or glass the liquor may run out of the one into the other without being exposed to the air, which is a most material thing to take care of at the first pressing, and at all times; the spirits of Cider being very apt to evaporate.  

With Izinglass.  Some choose rather to fine their Cider with Water-glew commonly called Izinglass, than by racking it, which is thus done. For a Hogshead take about a quarter of a pound of Izinglass (and so proportionably for a greater or lesser quantity) beat it thin upon an Anvil, or an Iron-wedg or such like thing, cut it in small pieces and lay it in steep in a quart of White Wine, or some of the liquor you would fine, so it be not sharp, but it dissolves best in white Wine, let it lie therein all night, the next day keep it some time over a gentle fire, till you find it well dissolved; then take a greater proportion of the liquor you intent to purify, after the proportion of one gallon to a Hogshead, in which boil the dissolved Izinglass, and cast it in the whole mass of liquor, stirring it well about and leave the vent-hole for sometime open: This will fine any kind of Liquor.  
But the common and best way is that among Vintners, etc. that have frequent use for it: And it is to dissolve a considerable quantity of Izinglass in White Wine without putting it on the fire, which it will do in about a month's time and turn to a jelly, which they keep by them, and it will keep good a twelvemonth, and when they have occasion to use it remove the scum that will be on the top of it, and take what quantity will serve their turn out of it according to the proportion of a quart to a Hogshead; and this they beat to a froth, and mix it with a quantity of the Liquor it's to be put in, and then pour it into the vessel mixing it well together with a broom, and so leaving the work.  
When it is very fine either draw it out of the Vessel as you drink it, or which is better bottle it; and take notice, after it is fine, the sooner you draw it off the better.  

New Vessel.  If the vessel you put it in be new, scald it with hot water, in which some of the Must or Pouz, hath been boiled.  

Tainted Vessel.  If it be tainted take some unslact Lime and put it in the vessel with water, and stopping it well, roll it about a while.  

Wine Casks▪  Wine Casks, if sweet, are accounted proper to receive this liquor.  

Choice Cider.  If any one shall desire a small quantity of Cider extraordinary for its goodness, let him take the liquor that comes first from the Must, without much pressing, and dispose of what comes afterwards by itself, or mix it with the juice of another grinding.  
Some have been so curious as to pick off the trees the ripest Apples, and especially those that have had most of the Sun, and to make use of them by themselves for choice Cider.   


Of Perry.  Sect. 5.  
Perry is made the very same way as Cider, only observe to let your Pears be very ripe before you grind them. And it's a thing advised by some, to mix Crabs among the Pears of weakest juice to mend the liquor.   


Of Rasberry wine.  Sect. 6.  
If you have plenty of Raspberries they will make delicious Wine, after this manner.  
To every two quarts of Raspberries, put one pound of fine white Sugar; let them stand two days in an earthen pot, often stirring and bruising them; then put them in a woollen bag and hang them up, that the liquor may drop out into a Milk-pan, or such like thing, for  hours, or more; put then the liquor into an Earthen Pot, with a Faucet in it, let it ferment there and scum it off, at a week's end or sooner (if it be any whit sine) bottle it up, and at another week's end, shift it into fresh bottles, reserving the settle in the bottom of the bottles, which you may after put together into one bottle by itself; shift the bottles thus twice or thrice, as long as you see any settlement in them.   


Curran wine.  Sect. 7.  
Of Currans also you may make a delicate Wine thus: Gather the Currants very ripe, bruise and strain them; to every two quarts of the juice put one pound and a quarter of Sugar, put it into an Earthen Pot, scum it oft, and at a weeks end draw it off, take out the settling, put it in the Stean-pot again; do this twice or thrice till it be very fine, and bottle it; if you find it not fine in the bottles at a week's end, shift it into other Bottles.   


Goosberry Wine.  Sect. 8.  
To make Goosberry Wine: Gather the fruit before they are too ripe, and for every six pound of Goosberries, take two pound of Sugar, and two quarts of water, stamp the Goosberries, and steep them in the Water and Sugar  hours, strain them, and put the liquor into a vessel close stopped for a fortnight or three weeks: Draw it off if you find it fine, if not, let it stand a fortnight longer, and then draw it into Bottles; but if it be not then fine, Rack it, or use Izinglass.  
Delicate Wines are made these ways upon Experience; but if you desire to make a greater quantity of liquor of your Fruit, you may either for Rasberry, Curran, or Goosberry Wine add more water, and make them after this manner.   


〈…〉  Sect. 9  
For every pound of ripe Fruit stamped, take a quart of spring water, and a quarter of a pound of fine white Sugar, boil the Water and Sugar, scum it and put in the juice of your Fruit, let it boil up again, take it off the fire, run it through a hair sieve, and when it's throughly cold put it in a Stean-pot or Vessel, after six or seven days draw it out into Bottles, put into each Bottle the quantity of a Nutmeg of loaf Sugar. It will not be sit to drink under a quarter of a years time and will keep good a year.  
According to this last direction you may also make Cherry Wine, or to make it stronger, use no more water than juice of the Cherries.   


〈…〉  Sect. 10.  
Cherry Brandy is usually made with black Cherries, by filling a bottle half full of Cherries, and putting in Brandy till the bottle is near full; shake it sometimes; within a month it will be ready to drink.  
If you put the like quantity of Goosberries instead of Cherries, it will make the Brandy very delicious.  
Reader, I have no more (and I am pretty well assured there's little more necessary) to say to thee as a Planter; 
The Con●●●●on.  but when thou goest to work by these directions, then as a good Christian observe the Characters of the Divine wisdom, power and goodness, that thou shalt every where meet with in this ingenious and beneficial Employment, and chief take notice how all ends in that which serves only for thy own use and pleasure; therefore praise and adore him, and observe his bounds in the Enjoyment: And in so doing thou mayst have the benefit of, and I'll take my leave of thee in, the words of him that spoke of Trees, From the Cedar tree that is in Lebanon, even unto the Hyssop that springeth out of the wall. Go thy way, eat thy bread with joy, and drink thy wine with a merry heart; for God now accepteth thy works, Eccl. 9.7.     
THE END.  

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The Country Man's Physician. For the use of such as live far from Cities, or Market-towns. 8ᵒ  
Dr Burnet's Sermon before the Lord Mayor upon the Fast for the Fire, 1680. 4ᵒ.  
Conversion and Persecutions of Eve Cohan, a Person of Quality of the Jewish Religion, lately Baptised a Christian. 4.º  
New England Psalms. 12ᵒ  
An Apology for a Treatise of Humane Reason Written by Ma. Clifford Esq; 12ᵒ  
The laws of this Realm concerning Jesuits, Seminary Priests, Recusants, the Oaths of Supremacy and Allegiance explained by divers Judgements and Resolutions of the Judges; with other observations thereupon, by William Cawley Esq fol.   

In the Press.  
DR. Burnet's Account of the late Earl of Rochester. 8º  
— History of the Reformation of the Church of England. The second and last part. fol.  
Bishop Sanderson's Sermons.  
Fowlis his History of Romish Conspiracies, Treasons and Usurpations. fol.  
The Tything Table. 4.º  
Markham's Perfect Horseman. 8ᵒ  
Robinson's Phrases for Winchester School. 8ᵒ   
FINIS.