-■l /' .-•1 y- .^.>V '^J^ / ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (Mt-S) 1.0 £fUll2£ lit 1^ ^22 'ui 1.1 m u 1. ,. ■40 1^ " • : |J4 1.25 1^ ..^ I '1 / V V ■..^:i#' % ■ ^r^A^ iijifj^r«ii r;*i- p., . JScMices ; ^^ Corporalion - 23 \linf T MAM STtm ^ WnSTIR,N.Y. 14SM (7i*)«7a>4ioa A-ASf ,\ v ■■■^.<(^' s*fc % 6^ -■-> -, CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. (IMonopraphs) v\ w .i^ CiHM/iCMH Coiiection de microfiches, (monographies) . n Tfchnical and Biblioflraphk Notts / NotM tachniquts tt bibliographiquM Tht Imtitutt has attamptad to obttin tha bast original COPY avaiiabia for filming. Faaturas of this copy which jnay ba Mbliographically uniqua. wrtiich may altar any of tha imagM in tha raproduction, or which may significantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, art chackad balow. < . - L'Institut a microf ilmi la maillaor axamplaira qji'il lui a M poftiMa da sa procurer. Las details da cat axamplaira qui sont paut4tra uniquas du point da vua bibliografihiqua, qui pauyant modif iar una imaga raproduita. w qui pauvant axigar una modification dans la mMioda,normala da f ilmaga sont indiquis ei-dassous. □ Co^ourad covars/ Couvartura da coulaur □ D Covars damagad/ Couvartura andommagta Covars rastorad ahd/or laminatad/ Cotivartura rastauifa at/ou palliculte □ Covar titia mitsihg/ La titra da couvartura manqua □ Colourad pagas/ Fagas da cm^laur □ PHMilM^wad/ Pagas aiidommagaas / • «»•.■ ■ □ Pagas rastorad and/or laminatad/ Pagas rastaurias at/ou pallicultas Pagas discolourad. stainad or foxad/ Pagas dicolorlas, tachatiM ou piquisa D Colourad maps/ Cartas gtegraphiquas an coulaur □ Pagas datachad/ Pagas ditachtas '-^^ □ Colourad ink (i.a. othar than b|ua or Mack)/ Enira da coulaur (i.a. autra qua Maua ou noira) r~71 Colourad platas and/or illustrations/ Pian^as at/ou ^illustrations an coulaur D Bound with othar mataria Ralii avac d^utras documents □ Tight binding may causa shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La raliura sarrte paut causar da Tombra ou da la distorsion la long da la marga intAriaura , . □ fliank laavas addad during restoration may appear within tha text. Whenever possib^. these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pag a s blanches ajoutias tors d'une reetauration apparaissent dans la taxte, . meis, lorsque cela itait possible, ces peges n'ont pas ktk filmtes. (3 Additional comment^:/ Commentaires suppl4mentairesT Varfoue pagfnga. This item is filmed et the reduction ratio checked betow/ > Ce document est film* au taux da reduction indiqui ci-dassous. 10X UX 18X 0Showthrbugh/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ Qualiti inigale da I'imprassion I ^ Continuous pagination/ D Pagination continue Includes index(es)/ Comprend un (des) index . Title on heeder taken from:/ La titra da I'en-ttte provient: D Title pege of iuue/ Page da titra da la livraison V~~~\ Caption of issue/ D «> p (\ Titre de depart da la Uvraison Masthead/ Ginirkiue (piriodiques) de la livraison ^ '■ 'ft.-... ^ ■■ . ■ 22X 26X 30X / ux Yf)l »X -V-* 2^X mX" 32X y- The copy filmad here Mm bMn raproduead thanks to tha ganaroshy of : Library of the NatioiMl ' ArehivM of Canada L'axamplaira film4 fut raproduit grica A la OinArofitA da: U MMiotMqua das Archival nationaias dii Canada Tha imagaa appaaring'hara ara-tha posaibla eonaidaring tha condition of tha original aopy and in kaaplnfl filming aontraet spadfleationa. ; quality laglbillty Original eoplaa hi printod papar eovora aia fHmad baglnntag with tha front covar and anding on tha teat paga «vlth a printad^or Hkiatiatad Impraa- tlon. or tho back eovar «vh«n appropriata. All othor original copiaa ara fNmad baglnning oil. tha first paga with a prirtlad or Hkiatratad impraa- slon. and anding an tha laat paga wMi a printad or ilhiatratad impraasion. \ Tha laat ra^onlad ffama on aach mleroficho, ahaN contain'^ symbol -^> (moaning "CON- tlNUEO"). or |ha symbol ▼ (moaning ^'ENO"). Mapa. ptetaa. chirta. ate., may ba fHmad at diffarant raduotion ratios. Thoaa too larga to bf awtiraly Inchidad in ono axpoaura aro fNmad / baginiiing in tha uppar toft.hand aomar. laft io right and top to bottom, aa many framas aa raquirad. Tha following diagrams llluatrata tha ^r \ 2 ■ r Las imagas suivantas ont AtA raproduitas avsc la plus grand soin. compta tanu da la condition at da te nattatA da raxampialra fiimA. at an conformltA avac tea' conditions du contrat da , fiimaga> * ' . Las aRaniptairaa originaux dont te couvartura mn papiar aat imprimAa sont filmAs aiv commandant par te pramter plat at an tarminant soit par la damlAra paga qui comporta una amprainta d'impraasten ^ dHIUstratiOn. soit par te sacond plat, salon te caa. Tous laa futraa axamplairite Iginaux sont filmAs an commonfant par la mlAra paga qui comporta uno omprainta ' dimpraaaion ou d'iNustrttlon at an tarminai^Mr te damlAra paga qui comporta una taila ^ . amprainta. K-... ■ ■ « ■. ^ f " ■ ■ . : ' Unltlaa aymbolaa'Sulvants spparattra sur te damiAra imaga da chaqua microfichs. salon la cas: te symbola — ^ signif is " A8UIVRE". te symbote ▼ signifte "FIN". Las cartaa. ptenchas. tabteaux. ate. pauvant Atra filmAs A das taux da rAduction diff Arsnts. Lorsqua te documam ast trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saul clichA. il aat fiimA A partir da I'angte supArteur gaucha. da gaucha A droita. at da haut an bas. an pranam te nombra d'ilhagaa nAcassaira. Laa dtegrammas suivants illustrant te mAthoda. A^ ■■»■•• I ■*•■ 1^ -^-i -■f 32X/ 6 ■*■>■, w i,'A} ..I / / -.N^ :/ '•• -W •V ?• f" ^.:" '■ / (V' ' " r".t*tsgrss .;« / / w A/ SUMMEil SlilAld ¥\A ISIK JOHN F1IANKL1>(, APPENDICES. i> ■-. "x •t I .it T'i vlfjl ^llt i '•••te^SB M-r^-'fc ■■5* n V .4 / % _ _ J. A . ■ ,, i^7 ' 4 . ', *■ ■?iSSSm*».*K*4 « Tffcl *'i^ r^-m;' ''■'^< •*k a z z> ■* O, , <^ sn X \- s •'0 ■ . I • . c . a X ■ ■ I- ,. 1 !- • \ UJ rr; . (O - ■o UJ ■x f l^'-;r- UJ A SUMMER' SEARCH WR SIR JOHt FRANKLIN; .'^ WITH /^ A PEEP INTO THE POLAfi BASIN. z^' BY COMMAND^ E. A. INGLJIJEIELD, R N BY PROFESSOR WITH SHORT NOTIC ANT, . AND HY DR. SlTTppRLAND. ON THE METEOROLOOY XnD OEOIXWY; TiONDON : TTTOMAS TTARRISON, r,0. PALL MALL, (LATE JOHN OLLIVIER.) - ■ • • '' 1853. ^4; n( , ^ ■V, ' / rniKTKD BT HAnnisoir ai»d sow, K'Nuiim i.A/iTTK i>r»H'», ST. M*iiTirr> i.iKr ANl- •>ncii*iii> sTitrr. afsTMi^-Tm, / r /'. ' / . -v /'. DEDICATED f IIKAR ADMIRAL SFR FRAXCIS REArVoRT, K.O.H. T WII08K l\)I'\HKI, (IllnEI). / • WIKtHE KKIKNnsHIP CIIEERRD, . AND WltORIi APrnonATION «AH MV AMniTION. J "IIN.-.ill MOVRS ..kSK^, ,,yi. HAnnsilIl.. if a 'Ji ,•/: ^. ■ n / -m r I < I P E P h > ■ r -.«»■ INTRObUqriON I J-i. •( I Tire Isabel screw -schooner, of 149 tons register, w^s originally fitted by Mr. Donald Beatson j ^ for -y,-^ voyage in"^ searcK of. the missing ships under Sir John Franklin. V *^® ''2!^ of^hring Strait and along the north shores of Siberia. But that expedition, owing to unavoidable difficulties •which prevented the accomplishment of his P''?je0» was "reluctantiy abandoned by Mr. Beatson, and thus the Isabel, with fiveye^* prpvisions for twelve men, and | a small high pjessurQ enguie of sixteen-horjse power, which, had been fitted to drive An^rchi- ; Ii L VI INTHOUUCTION. 'i . ■ : ■: >v mediuu. screw, besides Having been doubled, strengthened, and covered as far up as the bends with galvanized iron, was thrown back upon the hands of li^dy Franklin. This vessel,^© well adapted for Arctic service, was offered to the Admiralty as a gift, conditionally that '^he should be sent upon the service for which she had been e equipment of the vessel in a goveniment yard, though at my own expense. ^ '^ Having several times volunteered to serve in the Arctic expeditions lately sent out by Government, and being one of / ■i \ \c M il _ \ Vlll INTRODUCTION. that numerous parfy who consider that Franklin is to be found, *or at all events to be followed by the same path hfe had pur- sued, this was too tempting an /opportunity to be lost; I sou^t counsm of several friends upon the subject, /but they all refused to advise in a uiatter where not only my own, but thejires of my crew might be jeopardized, £^d principally on .account of the vessel being' ui^accom- panied, when about to vei^tiire upon ground never beforp visited and totally unknown. After much deliberation, and carefully weighing all these points, but trusting in an ever watchM Providence, I determined to undertake the expedition — of course con- tingent upon the compliance of the Admi- ralty mth my reqiiest; and upon their Lordships having fully granted all my applicatijon, I lost no time in acquainting Lady Franklin with my decision. Upon the equipment at a Governnjent ,7 :>/&^: '.-/t': INTRODUCTION. IX yard I had laid particulai* stress, as I %lt convinced that it could only be by the exertion I might expect there that I could possibly hope to leave England in time to do any thing in the Arctic Seas, as the season was'now far advanced. On the 22nd of Jime I became the sole proprietor of the ship or vessel called the Isabel, aT my register ticket quaintly sets forth. On the following day I formaUy took possession, and carried her down the river, mider steam, to Woolwich Dock Yard, there to be strengthened by the addition of two iron beams amidships, and thoroughly overhauled. , The dockyard authorities exerted them- selves to the utmost, and seemed to vie with eaoh other in zeal for the cause I had undertaken. I cannot help particularizing the exer- tions of my friend Mr. Macdonald, the master attendant, who, though previously , h 2 ' \w\ II / ^ INTRODUCTION. ' unknown to me, did all that my oldest and %est friend could have done towards the full equipment of my little vessel. At this period my time was so much occupied in London that had it not been for his invaluable assistance it would have been impossible that she could have been pre- pared in the requisite time. With the engine thoFoughly examined, provisions well stowed, sails duly repaired, and ship considerably strengthened,'with the addition of sledges, tents, travelling and cooking apparatus, and innumerable arti- cles which my friend fbund the means of supplying, I was ready to move out of thev basin on Sunday the 4th of July. It is an old saying with sailors, " Sunday sail never fail," still I consider that no work should be performed on that holy day that can be safely postponed; but in this par- ticular case, there were tidfes to be con- sulted, as well as the convenience of certain ■ \ .. if »»< ■f- .'.' '■ii. / / ^7, tWRODOCTION, xi dockyard authorities,/and moreover the requisition I had made to^ the Admiralty for a steamer to tow us forth upon our voyagfe on the Monday evening, hoping at that time that we should have left the basin on the Saturday. BuT there was powder to be got on board, ind compasses to be corrected by swinging ship at Green- hithe, all of which must be done ere we cmM be ready for the tow rope. I thus satisfied my conscience that the work was indeed one of necessity, and so by 6 o'clock on Sunday afternoon we reached the swing- ing buoy off Greenhithe pier. The ship secured, I went up to London, to take leave of my much valued frieiid. Sir Francis Beaufort. This Sunday evening passed away too rapidly.' My kind friend thought, I fear, too well of me ; he expected too much of my abilities and judgment; but I feel sure in no degree too much of my desire and will to perform my duty. < y I Xll INTRODUCTION. At the hc^ur of parting I hurried away rdther abruptly, but the admiral followed ine down stairs, and giving me one fare weU blessing at his door, bid me " God speed," and so I parted with one of the kindest hearted men with whom it has ever been lAy lot to meet. Monday the 6th was spent in swinging the ship for local attraction, and taking on board gunpowder, of which, with every utensil for its appliance we had been most liberally supplied by the Master General and Board of Ordnance. Owing to the amount of iron in the vessel, th^ local attraction was very great. The boiler, engine, screw, its shaft and gearing, together with the iron sheathing, were all powerful agents to bewilder our magnetic^ instruments. In an Appendix will be inserted a tabu- lated form, filled in by my late friend Captain Johnson, after his observations 'M ■ \- ■ ^' ;^ ■ ■ ' ,. ^ "INTRODUCTION. were, c(|iiple ted, and from their results he deduced the deviation of our standard and binnacle compasses. During the afternoon J was honoured ^y a visit from Sir Roderick Murchison and Doctor Shaw, Doctor and Mrs. Scoresby, and " my friend Mr. Thorold, who had all taken the deepest interest in the object of our expedition, and now came to bid me a hearty farewell. ■'■ f \ Lady Franklin, the devoted wife of him for whom J was about to seek, with her, niece. Miss Qracroft, and several other ladies also came on board. They did not seem to think very highly of my accomi^o- dation, at which I do not wonder, as my cabin was only six feet by five feet and a quarter, including tabje and bed'; but they forbore, I 0ould see, to say all they thought. After reinaining on board two hours, thev left the ship overwhelming me with kind ex- pressions and good wishes for the dark future. 'w I '■ '■ / XIV fNTROUUCTION. • t , - ■» At four o'clock, my friend Macdoiialii came down from Woolwich in the Monkey, bringing |jome few things of which I had been unable to wait the com- pletion in the dockyard. ^^ Shortly after live, the Lightning, steamer, took our tow-ropes, and slipping the buoy . w^ were soon gjiding 'down the river, # a /ate that mrfde lis ajji feel we had been fortunate in ^bl^niiig the assist- ance of this vessel, which had been kindly directed by the Board of Admiralty to take us as far as Peterhead; and it is with the utmost pleasure that I record here, my grateful acknowledgment of the ready and constant aid that on every occasion I re- ceived at their Lordships' hands. '^-— though the expedition might be for the public good yet^it was in part purely a .private one, still I derived^ that coun^^ tenance and assistance from the noble Duke of Northumberland, down to the ^b,.wi*aijl CfcV' ii%,i|^o»4,4-. ■ t V INTRODUCTION. XV lowest official, withoat which I could not have got away when I did, nor gone forth on my voyagte so well prepared and so alnply stored. I was supplied with everything for which I chose to ask, and though it was upon the understanding that I was to pay for it, still to those who are aware of the superiority of the material, and excellency of the work at a goveniment yard, this was no small boon. Well! on we sped, accompanied for a short distance by my friend Macdonald, who after seeing us fairly off, and requiring np farther aid, manned the Monkey's "ggWg» and giving three hearty cheers, bid us adieu. Whilst we are being tugged up the east coast of England and Scotland, I will give a slight sketch of what my views were ' in undertaking this search of the missino- squadron in a single vessH while so many [fi Is, « I m. r XVI INTRODUCTION. ships had been employed by government; -and were still on this service. The return of Captain Austin's and Mr. Penny'sexpeditions, without having obtained positive information as to the route pursued by Sir John Franklin — though indubitable evidence was shown, that he wintered at the entrance of the Wellington Channel, in .1846 and 1846 — induced the. Admiralty again to dispatch the vessels previously commanded by Captain Austin, under the command of Sir Edward Belcher, for a further search in the same direction ; and though this large squadron was increased by a store ship (the North Star), yetijt would still require its full force for the examination pr<^osed, and it was therefore impossible to suppose they could make a tour in the direction of. Smith and Jones Sounds, albeit a part considered by many ^well worthy of iriquiry, as beine one to which it; is , w»ell known Sir John ^- INTRODUCTION. XVII t Franklin's attention had been sometimes directed. The west coast of Baffin Bay also ap- peared to me to deserve more serious attention, for though we may reject the story of the mate of the brig Renovation as to the character of the vessels seen on the travelling iceberg, still it is a part of the bay, where Franklin might have met with an accident on his homeward voyage, and where information might be obtained from tha Esquimaux, who are in continual communication with each other, and thus a clue to such a catastrophe would easily be obtained by communicating with them. My first object was. to endeavour to reach Whale, Smith and Jones Sounds by either the eastern or western shores, ac- cording as I might find the state of the ice would enable me to do so, and having thoroughly examined these S(^unds, bays, inlets, or "whatever they might turn out to ;M IJ' : /" ■>*,, U^ m :«« ;■:;'" "1! ' -^''7?^. • *i \i^- . xvm INTRODl'CTION. '^ .€" ^ ;■'"■*."■ be (for we have no certain knowledge of them) I would then, il" not forced to winter in those high latitudes, proceed down the - western coast of Baffin Bay, exploring its'^ shores as far ^outh as I^abrador. ^\ That I might be able satisfactorily to communicate with the natives,.! hoped to have previously obtained the assistance of an interpreter, ft^ Holsteinburg, or some other of the Danish settlements, and to, facilitate this I was furnished with a.letter of mtroduction from the Danish Ambas- sador in London, as well as an intima- tion from Lord Malmesbury the Foreign Seci*etary, that he had comm^cated with the Danist^, government ^SSJ^tel subject of my -voyage, and requmSmS^lt assistance should I be in need of it. If the lateness of the season or any other ihould oblige me to winter to the '^rd M_ Lancaster Sound, I hoped ing the^rtrig to be enabled by means / "'PfW^ir.' Hi' '^ <& • INTKODUCTION., tlX s « iff I my dog sleclgoa'to eonimunicate with the government squadron, m well as to make a careful search and general survey o^all the deep inlets of Baffin Biy, and this, should I be unsuccessful in the great object of my undertaking, would enable me to addf largely to ^ our geographic knowled'go of that region aiid to set at rest fo> ever the much vexed question, of the entrance into the Great Pokr Basin through the so-called Smith Sound, f hich the reader shouW be aware had never, before out voyage, been approached nearer than seventy miles. The above is a rough outline of .what I hoped, with God's blessing, to effect in the Arctic regions. ' . Having arrived at Peterhead, I hastened " on shore for letters^ which I expected to find there awaiting my arrival. On my passage northward, I |iad forwarded to the Admi^ ralty by a pilot boat an urgent request * that the Lightning, steamer, might be M }■ .f^- V i ■(■): • 4 rflf* &-?h'' &M, ^S^k^ ® %k K-^: /^k ■"■-* *x INTRODUCTION. ailowed to take me clear of Cape Wrath, ^nd great was my disappointment at ^ learning that she could not be spared for that purpose. I then tried to hire a mer- • chant steamer, either at Peterhead or , Aberdeen, and would gladly hay^ paid for her service; so essential did it ap- ,pear to get with all speed to Ithe field of operation. But there was not one to be had at .either, place, and the necessary ^^ economy of my store of fuel forbade my using a poimd of it, if possible, until actually ^ on the searching ground. At Peterhead, I found awaiting my arrival^ Mr. Manson the ice-master, who had .' served in thfl(t capacity in Mr. Penny's expedition, Mr. Ogston the second mate, an excellent steady carpenter, and five . able seamen; all young and active whalers. I lost as little time there as possible. A i ■ ■ ■ I crow's-nesty ice-saws,^ fresh beef, and a few other i^eeessaries, of which our five days' \, .#- •'?^-. INTRODUCTION. / ^xi voyage had shown us the need,/were soon proeured,\^d on the evening of the 10th of July, we tripped our anchor, and amidst the good wishes and cheers /of the kind ^ hearts that accompanied us a 4ort distance out, sailed away^^n our lonel|l voyage-- for my part with as %ht a heJrt as itver carried from my native shores] putting my ^ust in;i0ne jdiosg^m I kneW would: never fail me, and leaving the result ti His wisdom and goodness. J »t!l ■«, ."■* > % A SUMMER SI ARCH K)R 4lE J^HN FBMlirN CHAPTBR t. ; . The crew and officers who formed what the newspapers caUed my "little band of spirited adventurers," numbered seventeen, and consisted of two .ce-masters and a mate, a surgeon, an engmeer, a stoker, who wa« aJso a blacksmith two ca^nter^, a cook, and eight able, seamen! For myself, I r^l^ed to have noihing different from my cr«w, no servant, and my provisions the same, and served at the same houm as theirs ; by these means I hoped to p,^vent the poss.bd.ty of anything Kke discontent, should naMslups or-privations be our lot. Mr. Aberaethy and Mr. Manson, (he two ice-maste,^ were both well known in "Arctic . B I' ' A' '11 I !» ii I ^.m II ' i' % " I i; 1 tJ ! (' 111 If I! I ii ij A SUMMER SEARCH circles," the former having been several times in government expeditions, and the latter many voyages in whaling pursuits. Mr. Bardin, the engineer, had been origin- ally engaged for the vessel by Captain Beatson, and having superintended the construction of the engines I'was very glad to obtain his services. ^" Eact of these oflScers, entering fully, with me^ into the spirit of our enterprise, agreed to go at wages much . below what they would have received in the government service ; and to each I feel my thanks are due for the manner in which they came forward and offered themselves unreservedly to me in this perilous undertaking. Dr. Sutherland, the surgeon, having besen engaged in the previous arctic expedition und^r Mr. Pennj, and before that in two whaling, voyages, was, from his experience in the meteor- ^ ology of those climes, an invaluable acqui^tion to our numbers. The mate, Mr. / Oyston, was formerly a whaling master, and had been several voyages to Old Greenland. Our little Isabel did not of course afford us \ KOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN 'i ve^r exteMve personal accommodation. My eabm was^ot more than .ix feet square, having V'"*y.^g¥atthe topof akind of trunk, which passed through a store-room, buUt on the middle of tie quarterdeck. My hunk, or sleeping berth, was on the starboarf side, fonr,feet above ^^e deck, and could only be approached through an aperture in a kind of wooden screen; and certain convenient book shelves and lockers were fitted in all the ome^land angles, which - none but those accustomed to a seafaring life could have so ingeniously appropriated. A table, ^ f!t ^ *r -<»» ''al^>as fix^ against the bulfc^i^ which sepamtbd "the doctor's "•I'm from the captain's '| state-room;" the ■ f 7' «»°«thing smaUer th^n the latter, the bunk the same size, but ananged a« the sleeping berths of the doctor and Mr. Manson. The engineer's cabin and Mr. Abemethj^ occupied positions on either side of th« engine-room hatch, so that, when the steam was up, they en„ed a temperature of a hund^d Fahrenheit The boiler which was ph«ed as low in the bottom of the vessel as was practicable, hy fore . BO i I ;. '^ ■ }, r\- '!! 4 . A SUMMER SEARCH,, » • and aft, and was separated from the half-deck by moveable hatches.; and the engine, which was com|!^D8ed of two direct action qylinders, on dia- gonal beams placed like a V, Occupied a very small space immediately before ithe after-cabin, and drove the screw shaft which bassed beneath it, by a circular plate carrying craiik pins for the connection of the drag-Unks, with :a kind of ex- pansive gearing, which worked oy a lever,- at once served to set the engine a-head, or astern, or by a more contracted scope to cut off a por- tion of the steam, and thus virtually wire-draw- ing it. Nothing can be inore simple br do better for a high pressure-engine, working con- tinually at forty pounds on the square inch. . The half-deck contained on one side the mess place for the officers, and on the other, the pr^ vision store, armoury, and the seamen's library. From the mainmast, as far foinvard as the foremast, the deck was filled with provisions of every description, a bulk-heading of patent fuel separating them from the men's mess place. The water in tanks was stowed in the square of the main hatchWiay -^. ' f^S^^ ^^a^irS n'l [..■^ ^^^b ^i^^^ f.-^^b^^gy^ '^ lire''"' 'v X FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 5 Upwards of forty-five tons of fiiel occupied the hold, and the upper deck was paved with the same material, which completed our stock to about ninety-seven tons. ' A large space, forward, was bulk-headed off for the magazine and sail room ; and^ store of bread and salt-provisions was kept bo^tmually i on deck for iantemeigency, ready at a momenfai 1^ wammg to be put over the side, should the ^ destruction of the vessel seem inevitable, either from the irresistible pressure of the ice, or from " striking on some sunken rock of the coa^- and the teck^es of the long-boat were always kept up and hooked ready for use at the shortest ' ^ notice. ' Fearing light winds in the Pentland Firth, :we stood to the northward, and'pa^ing through the Boost (as it is termed), took a departure ' from Fair tsland, of which we lost sight at six * P.M. on the 12th of July, 1852. A long swell from the N.W. seemed to indi- cate that a gale had been blowing from that ' quarter. f, . I Baffling winds kept us from making much I h ,*- ' ^-^4't ■ / A SIIMMKR SEAIICII progress, and on the 14th steam was got up, to urge us forward, though it was most reluc- tantly that I decided upon attacking our all- important st(ye of fuel ; moreover, deep as we were I could not expect it to add much to her speed, and indeed we only succeeded during a "Stark calm, in going a- head three knots. From the 15th to the I7th we spent in struggling against light and adverse breezes, occasionally resorting to the engine. - On Sunday the 18th, I gave out to the people the Bibles and Prayer Books, which had been generously supplied by the Society for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge. Divine servic§ was performed in the fotenoon, and it was most satisfactory to'see the attention of all the crew to this important duty. The 19th, we exchanged colours with an English barque bound to the eastward, and on the 20th two more sails were observed working in the same direction. Our observations, at noon placed us in 58° 4' N. and 19° 44' W., leaving 796 miles yet to run to Cape J'arewell. 25th. — Being Sunday, the crew were mus- " FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 7 tered; the lower deck inspected, and divine service performed, aft^r which I read to the men , one of those exceUent discourses written for the use of seamen by the Rev. Samuel Maddock. At noon the latitude w^s found to be only , 59° 1 8' N. and the longiliude 28° 26' W* ' Unsettled cloudy weather on the 26th ^lid 27th precluded all observations, but we tried fbi- soundings with ninety fathoms— no bottom 28th.-.At noon by the sun's altitude we had reaxjhed to 59° 23' N. and by chronometer to 36° 43' W. . / The 29th, a succession of sudden squalls with thick weather during the day, increased to a heavy gale towards' midnight, aceompaoj^dj^ a heavy tumbUng sea, during which a studding ^ sail boom was carried away, and the sail neaxly lost in recovering the wreck. the morning of the 30th broke with a perfect ^hurricane of wind from E.S.E., the sea washing our decks ft)re and aft, threatening our top hamper, and washing away some planks and spars that were ill secured oii the quarters. At iwo, the sea had risen so high and the vessel \ ■I ! !,' f ■,i ■•• , "Brff •^ . V'., a A SUMMKR^SEAHCII «-j.. laboured BO much, that I deemed it advisable to heave^er to ; the water pouring down the hatch- ways and flooding the lower deck wamecJ *$is of the proximity of the Foul Weather CapeJIks Cape Farewell i4 termed, vessels seldom pafiisHig it without encountering a gale. . . * ' At noon the "w eather moderated, and we stood away to the northward, my reckoning and observation "determined the shjjb'i^, position to be in lat. 58° 1*2', and long, b^'ehronometer, ^a ai85 «f Aifnold, 43°*1>'; or sixty miles to the S.E. of Ciape" Farewell. At two, p.m.,, land was reported from .aloft, .as seen on the starboard-bow, and going upwards of eight knots through the wat0r, we soon rose it on the deck, when every eyes was eagerly bent to catch the first glimpse of the snow-capped mountains. Towards sunset |we were well in with the land. Bold, rugge^, and tempest' riven, the coast seemed to pajrtake the character given by Greenland sailprs to the weather always ex- perienced off I its inhospitable shores. A stormy Petrel flying on board was easily ca^jf- tured, the pooir little greature had lost otje leg^ 4 -.., es be >ts k, he 18. ^^v- FOR SIR JOHN KRAi«KLIN. Q and though the stump wa^ perfectly healed, I doubt^ot the want of it occasioned its capture as these buvds use their, feet as a rudder to guide them liUheir flight. By eight p:m, Mr^d sighted several icebersoUcitous about the screw, dreading that some of the floe pieces Avhich had Ibn^ projecting tongues under water would catch it j I soon however perceived, that when the bow i struck a piece of ice, it either %■ a I r , -.; * ■ f .. . ■it ■ A .K- 10 •, „- A SUMMKH SEARCH received a whirling motion, whicli wbuld%3si8t Is^teaThlg^ itself^ff om anythiiig thafrlt might encounter abaft;, or on the other hand, that i bounding oft* to a respectable distance, if not large, it was set by the ripple from the bow, away on the vessel's quarter ; to make alL sure however, I had the screw disconnected, and thus left free to accommodate itself to any pressure it might receive from external causes. To have raised it would only have endangered it the more, as it coijld not have been lifted- high, enough to clear the water, deep !as we were. I could ijot help remarking how singularly different the character and formation of these bergs were,fvto those I had seen off Cape Horn. The latter being so much more ice-like, and thes^e appearing as if made out of snow, pressed Jntounwieldly masses. . About one a.m., Mr. Manson, who was on the foretopsail j^ard, reported that we seemed to be i-unning into a bight in the pack, out of which, had it once fairljr entrapped us, 'would have cost hours to beat. He advise.d that we should %viear round some loose pieces on our lee beq,m,' FOR SIR J9HN F^aIkLIN. 11 ^ and thus head lier off the way we came in— ' "the handswere speedily turned up, and the wind leading her away to the S.W. soon brought us into clear water. *_ ^ •. ^ was my first introduction to the ice, and glad I was wiien 1 found that we had fairly cleared the stream that had stopped our onwkrd 'J)rogress. . ^ ' The 3 1st was fine and the sun shining brightly, we eagerly seized the opportunity of drying the bedding and clothes which had beeii drenched by the gale of the 29th. Two corona were observed this morning through thej thick fog that enveloped us till the sun haci acquired sta-ength stijficientto disperse it— the outer one of purple, the inner of a brilUant orange. Shortly after noon the wind fell, when the steam was got up and we screwed our way midst the drifting ice and heavy bergs which intercepted our path. Doctor Sutherland busied himself with his towing-net and found abundance of animal life. The forms he particularly observed were" the Cetokilus Arcticm and the Scujita. Medusa! ^ ■■■■■'. .i.. ■ ■■ , ■ ■ ■',.., \ / ,' - -"ii^..- "-: ' ,; ij ; -J; h-,' m If', g 'Ik »" i^.* \V j> c^ ,^ 12 A SUMMER SEARCH were very abunida^nt and so completely clogged , the Bet that in a fev^vminutes it was with diffi- culty it could be drawn/in. * August the 1st daiihied upon us with strong breezes from N.W. iand thick drizzling mist; Whilst working to windward, shortly before noon, we suddenly/ found the little Isabel run- ning stem on, anitl within a few fathoms of a gigantic berg ; there was no time to wear, and had not she been very ready at stays, a few moments woi^ld have sufficed to spnd us to our long home, as neither the precipitous base of this enoqnous ice island, nor its inhospitable front, showed a single crevice or projection by which one man could have been sav6d. We .were, however, mercifully spared from such an awful death, and a short tack to wind- ward enabled us to clear it when we n^xt stayed. I Midst this uncertain weather and dangerbus navigation, I was compelled to give up our meeting for divine service in the forenoon, and strong breezes, which, obliged us to reef the top- sails, kept us all on the alert during the rest of the day. ■ .i- '. » . jjsr.- , ^ ■ ^ -..' '■W __,_.4i ,. .■ * . ; •'., ■ _— ■ ' r;; -•■■ ', - ■ '7- a- ■ 1 . Jk:.- '■ ■ ' . . ( ■ . . .- 9 \- / ■ ■ . ^ t FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 13 In the evening, I sent to invite any of the officers and men who were so disposed, to come to my cabin for prayers, and I was glad to find it soon so crowded that it would contain no "^^'^J ^""^ *he fixture, therefore, I determined, When the weathbr permitted, to have a regular Sunday evening service on the lower deck. On the 2nd, the wind becoming lighter, the steam was got up, and we soon found it a great advantage, in plying to windward, to keep our screw at work. The wind gradually freshenlg, the fires were banked up, and 4 pressed her on with all the sail that she could cany. The thick weather of the last two days had prevented our getting observations, and it was, therefore, charming to learn from the pole star, and frbm' the moon, on the morning of the 3rd, that we had advanced to the latitude of 60° 21'. An Aurora Boreali? was observed at midnight ^ of the 4th, which illumined the whole of the southern sky with its variegated coruscations of brilliant %ht. During the following day we stood in to within eight' miles of the shore, and '* ^^ supposed that we were^pff.Omenarsuk. '..■■■' ♦ "-■ •■*• ■; . >m ■7 .;,,.,. ■ --*^ \ ■ W. Jii ^ ^ ■. "WS .TfP- •t.,, T '■*■ ;:,.■ i. A , it ■- ■ 1 X 4^ 1 tt -..WVi!:.' - B • V* f m m- ' a .■■X' 1 ■/•• 14 A SUMMER SEARCH We obtained soundings in thirty-five fathoms — sand and broken shells. Mr. Abemethy, having received a hurt from a tank falling on his leg, I kept the „ morning watch, and was well repaid by the sight of as glorious a sunrise as ever gladdened the face of nature; the! yellow tints of the golden orb shedding tljieir refulgence on the rude and grotesque classes of ice scattered here and there; and the lamd just tipped on its snow-capped heights by tis beams seemed to hail the warmth which woiild soon send the melting torrents down its stjeep glaciers, or hurl its frozen masses on the deep, there to be slowly carried to the mild Atlai^tidJ to be dissolved, and to drop their burdens— huge lumps of rock and earth — to the botto^l, thus performing nature's endless work of decay and renovation. To no one whose mind is not whoDy engrossed by the world and its busy matters can a sunrise fail to lead his ' thoughts heavenward, and when that is amidst . the most glorious and stupendous of Nature's works, how must the reflective nfiin turn his a J thoughts'^ the All Wise Creator, whose foot- ■:S. \2' _ FOR SIR JOHN FRANKUN. I5 Stool is the earfli, and who " nieasureth out the -waters in the hoUow of liis hand." What;^n- significant beings we become even in our own estimation, when we'reflect on His Majesty, His Wisdom, ^nd' His Power. Such thoughts involunt^Iy presented them- selves to me, and I rejoiced in the chance which , had led me to the contemplation of such a noble scene, as that I now Ueheld ; heightened as it occasionally was by the hoarse surge of the waters as they rolled into the caverns of some mountain of ice, or by th^ roar of some other berg while rent in twain with the noise of a park of a thousand artiUeiy, and scattered over the water in showers of fragments for miles around. , Stormy weather on the 5 thmg that we could do wa^ to keep plenty of ^ea^room ; but all anxiously looking forwaixi to a change of weather, as the lateness of the season rendered it most desimble We should lose no time in getting on our searching ground The northerly winds might, however, be doing^ ^r^ iH ■n iX 16 A SUMMER SEARCH .»■•*' good in clearing away the ice from th^ sounds to which we were bound, and this was the con- solation we- offered each other as day after day brought us no ch^lJlgie. . ^ The 7th proved a6 threatening as the two pre- .vious days, and a heavy sea sadly knocked about , our little barque so" that we were glad-to see under our lee sonie islands, where shelter might be had from the gale that wifis brewing ; accordingly we rap in towards the sWe, and after a short- time observed some natives coming bff in their light kyacks. vThey soon made us understand that^e were off Fiskemcesj a Danish settlement, and al latitude I succeeded in getting at noon satisfied me that we had understood them aright. , Having taken the Esquimaux and their canoes, aboard, one of them, seemipgly more intelligent^ than his fellows, proposed to take tile- ship into an anchorage, and deeming it prudent to come to for the night, I yielded to the inclination I felt to see the settlement, and to leUm a little of the manners and customs of this northern race • of people. Passing Lichtenfels on the starboard . hand, we shortly came in sight of the' little p- '^'' SIB JOHN PRANKIJN. jy harbour -Of Fiskemces, where, with some diffi- culty, we anchored in twelve fathoms; but so ve^ smaU was the- bay, that my preeiods bt le /^ .„ t,,„ding to her anchor stiuct, -th her heel on a shelving rock,' on tE^ ' -«th shor., ana much to my dismay, knocked away aU &« pintles of the 'rudder. . Lneky it was that this dis^r occuW under shelter, (for an hour's work e«able*us to hangW spar. ™dder) whereas I«a#e misfortune befeUen amongst the ice, we should-have found much, difficulty m .epairing it^ ^3 ^^ ^^ ^^ stempoat had suffered. feeUng the urgent necessity of pr^^dim, onward^th as Uttle delay as possible, I wa! •eonstramed to work aU the .^mainder of that day and a fe^ hou« of the foUowing Sunday ~^'''7««'"-«^-««''todoaloft; settmg ' up nggmg &png the crow's nest, and making ^ various other arrangements p..pa,at»,y to get ting fairly amongst, the ice. ■. ' ^ ■ -f ■ I; .!>' c . '. I • ^ i 1 -,-—-«. — -^, M. », ^.' '. :. -t^ '■ ^)- .18 A SUMMEI} SEAROtI V CHAPTER It. :. « - " . *■ ■ ' ii * - , When the vessel was properly secured, I landed to wait on the Danish governor, Mr. Lazzen. Dr. Sutherland accompanied me on shore, and •^Tiaving presented the letter with which I was provided from the Danish ambassador in " England, we were received with every mark o^ courtesy and hospitality, and were immediately pressed to dine with the family. The repast was served up with wonderful alacrity ; for in ten ihinutes we &und ourselves enjoying excellent, salmon' and venison, garnished with/ certain fresh vegetables, which were luxuftes we had not expected to mfeet wi«A in 63° lati- tude. Codfish is one of the staple commodities \ 'Ii vi r-r ■ - - D ■■_ f^ 1 '\ ■' ^ * . -- ' ■ * 1 11 1 %/: * . ii • ' ' "~j^l, * -X~ : ^.- ' ■ .,^^.' p'/JZ - s ( 11 M » ■ "• , /-■' :'-7. . » ^ 1 ' A . * k:-, "^ % f *£ J!!Sr:*' \ .. /\ r. FOR SfRy^OHN FRANKLIN 19 ,..: -been carried away io Demnark >^ew days previo-Us to onr arrival. ■ Thongh the governor could neither speak nor _ unde,Btanda word of Anything but Danish, and h.B secreta^ but a very little broken English I managed to learn a few.particul^. relative t^ the. ^ode of life in these region! Owing to' . some- pecul^rities in the ice which wer. not sufficiently explained to „e, sledgmg is not practised m this bay. and aU their carria^ IT perfo^ed by water. Their kyacks, and Their I'ght canoj^ are principally employed in fish- mg operations, and a Uiger vessel, whiih is -Ued a woman boat, (being the only kind in wh,ch the.r women can venture), is used Where whales pe to be attacked, or fish in h„|e q™.„. ' ^ titles taken. si*" These women-boa<« are alsp employed, in ««^g the fire-wood, wWch is colleid at s6me distance up *h, deep fjords, and is the only fuel on which they can rely W their -nter stock. It is a bnd of creeping ^Uow. seldom bigger than a mi,'s thumb- in ^ .and scanty in quantity. ' ■•■•/■-'.. ' ■ •■ ■■ ' ;'!'.: A. It ' 20 A SUMMER SEARCH A few goats supply the governor's family with jnilk, and his little garden, carefully protectied from the winter/ gales, keeps them in vegetables. Nothiiig could exceed his kindness to me, milk was sent off to the' vessel with some salmon, and a boat was dispatched into the bay to catch codfish, also to be sent^ on board. My host was an inordinate smoker, but a fine portly man, dnd fidl of a pleasant humour, which kept every one happy around him. The matroi Jy wife was a donaestic looking lady, who evidently busied herself much in th^f culinary ptocess, as her repeated goings and comings with a fork or a spoon in hei: hand, from her kitchen or her larder, plainly indicated; but it was u right good repast, and tVe had no business to spy into tl^e machinery by which it had been prepared- Their &mily. consisted of a son and two little daughters, but I was given to understaml they . ha^ certain other sons and daughters,' resi- " dent in Copenhagen or elsewhere. The house in which my Mend was domiciled was a good residence, two stories high, the upper part being occupied by the secretary, who thus \ ^ -r. ■ . ■M :^' ■ ' , ■ ■>>■ ;< (t vv T . ' ^^■■ .»'■. ^'^ X ' -", /■ *" •>*-; FOR sir/ JOftN FIli^KUN. 21 dwelt within calling distance of ^is master, along ^ with his smaU wife anddai^e baby, pinner ended, ,1 supposed we w^e expected to retire, as each person rose from fes sedt, and waring ^grasping me by the hand, muttered some wor^ quite" uninteUigibl* to my untutored eai^ and then performed the same ceremony all round. I . accordingly took my cap, and was about to proceed with 'the observations I had commenced before dinner, when I was eamestly. pressed back again to my seat on,% sofa, and entreated to wait till coiFee was serv4 1 then remem^ bered the Russian custom of ^race after meals, V which is performed by each persorf shaking the hand of every one in company, and say^ : mg, " Much good may it do you." Excellent coffee was soon produced, and I was then allowed to go on with my observations in the governor's garden. . Y The gale blew till sunset, when a calm gavi promise of a change bf wind, but on the followf ing morning I was ^adly disappointed to find it blowing from the old quW ; I consoled myself,- however, as before, with the reflection that it was ' A . J^ ■ f|>i - !|: *4 /" 22 A SUMM£R SEARCH »«r clearing the, ice out of the head of the bay and giving us a fair scope for our search in the high latitudes. ^ >" [The governor, upon learning that I was going to read th^ service to the crew at eleven> expressed a wish to attend, and accordingly, our work being finished and the ship cleared up, his Excellency came on board a Uttle before that hour with his wife and secretary and all the don^estic appen- dages belonging to each. Upon his stepping over the side, the Danish flag was hoisted at ■the fore, and a salute of seven guns fired, much to his surprise and to the flight of the women and children. Afterthe salute, We took thein /below, and then divine service was performed,/ which, though they could ndt understand, they certainly seemed to appreciate. The steam being up it was very warm; so having compassion on their frigid temperaments, I dispensed with a sermon on this occasion, and invited them into my cabin I' to see sufth European novdties as I had to show, and to give the children some dolls and toys with which I had been provided by ilome kind fiiends in London. "^"^- — '- ~ ^r /" « ;,^ FOR SIR JOnk FRANKLIN. 23 Wine'and "biscuits were offered to their Excel lencies, and success to our voyage was cordikUy .^ drank by them and aU present. The secretary, ^ who seemed an intelhgent young man, took much' interest in examining the engine, and to gmtify • hii|, the screw was set in motion and then the st«am blown off, 'to the delight and amaze- ^ ment of th^ children and the Esquhnaux Having presented the GpVernor with so'me cases of preserved beef and soup and a few bottles of good wide, (with which I had been liberally supplied by Lady Franklin,) I allowed my friends to carry me off to the shore,, where a . sumptuous dinner had been prepared; and on this occasiWthe secretary and his i^jiie-were of the party. Salmon and venison treated i|i vari- ous ways seemed, the- principle articles of food/ and with soft bread, butter and vegetables, We fared luxuriously. It would be hard to describe several of the dishesf of which there was such a diversity displayed as woAd have done ^credit to a Parisian cook,' Being anxious to Avitness the forms and .^ simple ceremonies ofjlle serv^^ in a native W--' i;i M J -, I L X 24 A SUMMER SEARCH church, I obeyed the summons of the bell in the neighbourhood, .and soon found myself in a lar^e, low, whitewashed room, and taking my seat quietly in a corner, I watched the Esqui- - maiux assembling in this f&i off land, to worship the same God and Saviour, that my coiintiy- men had, a few hours before, b^en praising in our English churches. Softly, but rapidly the little meeting-house - filled, and then the door closed, and an Esqui- maux with the most forbidding exterior of any I had seen slowly rose, and with much solemnity gave out a hymn ■ and in a few moments the melodious harmony of many well tuned voices , broke forth. I was delighted with the strain, for though not a word was intelligible to me, I could nevertheless feel that each person was lifting his heart to his Maker, and I unconsciously joined in the harnM)ny with words which> having learnt in chUdhobd, now rushed into my mind and bid me mingle them with the hallelujahs of these poor semi-savages. After the hymn, a chiper of the Bible was re»4 in the Esquimaux language, and tlien a • ^Wi 'm-~ ■"If: I^OR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. \ 25 prayer, extempore, but full of that felvour and earnest devotion wliich made me Wiwith more r reverence at the. ungainly native w J was thus leading the hearts of his feUows t/the mercy seat ofHeaveh. / ■; A sermon foUowed, and then burst from the preacher's hps a flow of elocution that I have seldom heard equalled;, withotit gesticulation he warmed on his subject till the large drops of perspiration fell on the sacred volume, \nd his tone and emphasis proved that he was gifted with eloquence of no ordinary nature. - Another hymn foUowed, and then they sepa- rated with the blessing of this native Esquimaux catechist- for such I afterwards found, he was. A Danish clergyman resides at Fred(?riks>ab, but he is able to visit Lichtenfels and Fiskemoes only on eveiy other Sunday. _, , The musical talent of these people was shown ' upon several occasiq^s. At night, they came down to the rocks dfceast of the ship and sung some native melodies that were so graceful and fiiU . of harmony, that the most cultivated musician naiglit have been charmed with them. t! kW :is^ I ;«r- •h # /? /-.'^ r^ Ic 26 > A SUMMER SEARCH In the afternoon I aUowed the ship's coto- , . pany togo on shore for a walk, and Jack seemed ■ to enjoy the opportunity of stretching his legs. Some mosses were collected, and specimens of sea-weed and marine animals 'were dredged up by the doctor. In the evening having finished aU my observations for latitude, longitude, vari- ation, dip, and intensity— and the wind being very light— we had recourse to steam, and on a beautiful eyeiiing we cast ft^mo^ anchors' and set forth well prepared to taJce the ice-in,goo4 ■ earnest. ' . ' Our Esquimaux pilof being at his post, we slowly wended our way among the rocks and! small islands which land-locked the harbour, ' during which the hearty cheers of the Esqui-' maux women, who could not, like their hus- bands, accompany us in their kyacks, received' from ^e sailors similar loud tokens of ferewell and good feeling. And then on we 'screwed, surrounded by about twenty of those boats, iii which the natives seemed proud of exhibiting their dexterity in throwing the lance, and glid*^ ing past each otl|er with wonderful celerity, theh * ■■!• . ■ ■.* FOB SIR JOHN FRANKtlN. 27 regaining their spears, and sometimes darting , them forward far a-head of the: ship. Occa- sionaUy they would rest from this exhausting amusement, and, keeping time with their pad- dles, they woiild sing and whistle in parts, their native glees, which lent a characteristic chaxi» to the wild scenery of those >ude and rugged shores. . s .. They seemed happy, and, perhaps, that- hap- piness was more real and genuine than that of the wealthy, whose gold is a source of anxiety, and whose possessions involve unremitting care.' As the shades of evening closed around us, our companions dropped off, oV pilot alone' remained, but as he .also seemed anxious to return, I rewarded him with some biscuit, a piece of pork, and an old paif of trowsers, and he left us.. ; y ■- ■ -M- .-• ■ — ■" ■ ; A treacherous mist coming on, rendered it rather difficult to get well clear of the islands which girt the shores of this part of Greenland, but at length a light breeze coming from the southward, .our studding sails were spr^ abroad, we had no further excuse for wasting (! .: I ' A SUMMER SEARCH '1 oijr steam, and therefore quickly blew the /Ms out. Before bidding a final adieu to the littl J port of Fiskemoes, T may remark that it forms/a Ireiy. convenient anchorage for vessels 'that /ne^ a reWe from stormy weather ; but the bLw^ cajrns on the adjoining hills and islands are *he only guides the mariner has, in conjunction with hia lathude, to point out its position; Esqui- ni4«x .pilots, however, are always ready to push ^ of]^ and in ahnost ^ny weather, to conduct him to the anchorage. * * i , There are some dangerous rocks on the port hali4 going in, which are "covered at high water, and some others always above water, on the op- posite,side, near the town; but these are all the dangers we observed in entering^ by the south channel. The harbour itself is very smaU, there being scarcely room for two vessels, and therefore a ship going in with a leading wind should shorten aU sail, and rounding to, drop into a berth, letting go her anchor in about fourteen fathoms, and then secure her stern by hawsers from either quarter, to ringbolts pro- i»yf FOR.SIR JOHN PKANKLIN. 29 yided for the purpose on tlie rocks. Of the natives I can safely say that we found them inva- riabk honest, they came on board in twenties and tees whenever they pleased, ^nd we °6^®rj^lt the smallest article. -^^^ffk southerly wind on the 9th and 1 ^Oth carrfed us rapidly up the coast, and as I was anxious to keep the shore in sight, lest we should pass Holsteinburg, where I hoped to obtam an interpreter, we kept within eight or ten miles of it; but a thick fog coming on, it was deemed prudent to haul a Uttle farther off, and much to my regret the g^e increased so rapidly, that we were o|,liged tb' run past Ho^ steinburg, and to abandon the hope of making it. I regretted this the more, as it was my mtention to persuade Adam Beck to join our ' party, and by a strict search of Wolstenholme ' Sound with him, to test his vei^ity in the local ' circumstances to whicl^ he appealed for the cOn-. firmation of that cruel report of the murder of Sir John Ffenklm auk his crew, by the natives , on that coast. V | Having resolved to! push! for Goodhaven^ in !^i t \':'i '1 :? . m V- :t-\ I ■ » t 1 ll. » l- "% ■'<^» 30 >» A SUMMERv SEARCH ' I. Disko, in order to obtain dogs and interpreters, ' on the evening of the 1 1th, ^fe sighted the bold cHffs of that island, but the wind Ming light .: when still fifty riiles distant, we were obliged to . ."get up steam^^and yet did! not reach the- anchor- age nntil five o'clock ih the evening of the :(2th. The harbour was not eksy to find, and thougt both ice-^asteAi an4 the surgeon had beerf there before, they were not certain foi- whi^ point tp; stiser, in order to make the little harbour of Lievely, &s it is termed by the Danes. ^e vast and grotesquely formed icebergs, which lay grounded off the-point, are continually . changing^ and altering the aspect of the coast, ^ ,and hence the difficulty in recognising the spot : that may have been often visited; Luckily we;. , had been kindly supplied by the governor, of Fiskernces, with M. jlinke's Danish chart, which" , had been recently pubUshed, and on whicji I was • enabled to lay off a course that duly brought us • u^ to a cone-shaped beacon, painted red and ' white in- vertical stripes, from which the natives , signahze to each other the approach of whales to the coast. ' „ . \ .. T" Xj 1 .v.: ■. t -9 • ■ *■ • :• .^' . m t TT-^ . i ■ t* ■T ■ ,«^ ;:■./.._,. m . ft •/: ■ » > * r- lett .' « '"!»;, r'^' ■• /" ': iv FOR siR JQHN FRANKLIN. 31 z. » ^ : .So uncertain, however, were we yet as'to o{ir ' be^fig on ,tlie ri^ht track for the harb'our o^ ' ^^^^^b^t^at it was notuntilawhale^oatw^ ' , seen coming round the* point, that we felt at aJl ' V sure of our position ;' but a' P^ot^^oon jumped X on board, and, rounding «i^ rocky promontory " on which the beacon stands, and shootfiic intq^^ • me creek at the back, we. shortJy cam^' to an . . anchor-opposite the settlement, which' seemedjto ' consist only of four woc;den?liousesfan(isj^ mud huts. We did n6t;remain theye longe,-4an^to ■ ^ obtam a^few supplies of ^^hi' ■ ■ '■j-'f ■ ■ ' . ' . ^^,:U i" i. w. s ■i I- ~*1tZ 4 » ( », \ ^ '*, I ■ <^ 32 A' SUMMER SEARCH 1-1 I I out, and pushed away northward with foil power. . Passing very n^ar the -shore, we h^ a gpod- opportunity'foi^pbserving the formation of the ro^, which appear all secondary, though granite was seen at , one place. Vast flocks of petrel3 coveredithe surface' of the sea off North East T Bay, sitting on the water as far as the eye could reach, and apparently so gorged, that they would scarcely rise as we ploughed our way amongst them. The towing net was put oveis to collect some of the animaculaEi upon which they w^. feeding, but our speed was too great, the net was torn and we caught nothing. Muskets were now served to the people, and a target put up at the yard-arm for practice j and I was glad to find th'8M»» knew the use of fire-arms, and that some were very fair marks- men. I had a good opportunity of trying, the JMinie rifles, with which I- had been supplied by the Board of Ordnance, for the vessel being becalmed,. a molly-moke, sitting on the water about 350 yards distant, offered a fair object to try the effect of this wonderfol weapon, and to my surprise, at ^ the third shot, the l^ll [ . m ' 1 ■■ ^.- -V-: _ • tt . \ ■ 'l jl * t _■-'/■#* i 1 L-, 1 • ■•*' ■ 1 ■k: V -H' * ^ .■ POR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. m passed through its .body,;of which to satisfV myself I had the bird pickf^a up/ ' • ' Liev,Iy. having failed to produce either dogs or interpreters, of both of which I sto6d in neS, » I determined to steer for. Upernivik; r_I^sing along the toast, 1 -niade fetches of the ITeadlarids, and always accomMnied them with ang^ and one true bearing; for it appeared to- me tiliat faithfql views would prov6 of great assis^qe to the mariner; in visiting fof the mmr^ these shores. Sauriderso«'s Hope is a remarkable nlountain,' about 3000 feet in height, ^ and forming a good landmark; Svorte->fuk and Dark' Head, also are remarkable features. ' V' We obsen^ed loons in great numbers here * flying past us occasionaUy in flocks, or «wrni- '• ming in parties of about fifty .bn the water: ' Towards evening, they wefe seen taking fcr " fliglit to the rocks, whefe they roost in holes, high abdve the influence of the^ea.- -^^ A ' ^. .|We found'oprselvBs off".clernivil^eMm ^ Sunday, the 15th. An Esquimaux came off , about midnight (which it must be remembereciv '• was now as light as day), an«j, offered to pilot^- ^ " '^- " ' ■ ' - ■•./ >'■/ X' K*' 1P X.v::'' 4 i • * f' l> ■ 34 A SUMMER SEARCH •♦n*- m > I us to the anchomge, and ere long we brought up in the entrance ^a little creek, where the' Danish vessel was moored Some little distanc(0 "north of the settlement. i On landing on the. following morning, I. was not long in procuring the dogs and other 'neces- saries, of which we stood in neipd. Tom and Bella, the latter named after the vessel, seemed ill pleased with their change of abode, and it was some days before they settled down into doniiestic ship habits. Mr. Petersen, who had been last year with Mr. Penny's expedition, was living, here, and he proved of great use as interpreter' to me,- in . . / ■ ■ " obtaining^ * what I needed from the Danish goyempr. A description of this settlement would be quite superfluous, for one of these Greenland villages is so exactly the counterpart of another, that any one account of their houses and huts would be' equally suitable to all ; two •or three woo.V^ f , f. TOR SIR ^OIIl» PRANKUN. ', 3J helped thi, pilot in gating us ouk, as we had- takema wther dangerous positipn. Assisted by two boats from the Danish vessel toky out haw- sers and ice anchors to'tI.e neighbouring ,^ks -we got under '^fay with a fresh soutlmrly wind ~ ai^d had not the steam .been ready, we«houliK, certainly have gone MiorBTIST^he- nH.ri.ent the anchor ^tripped, a strong jfeftom-tjie ' gully off Saunderson's.;pop^piabd such » strain upon the whale line, that 1 p,«sently broke, and had we not screwed ahead with ^ '"H «PM we must inevitably'have tailed • It instantly occurred to me that the screw * must have caught up the rope which had been ^6d away, knd which of course, owing to ' ^e ship's way, had taUed under the counter- ' Wytumswere round the screw in an instant ' ^d luckily nothing being foul fo^arf, it's •^«any tightened, and then, stopped the • ' «4gme; had a man's leg. or arn, been in the ■■/■■■"■ ^i^i .-■- ■. ■ ■' -^'^^'-ly 2,. • ./ ••■* li H MM ■ it *m H ±i: , i\ A„ V w A\ \ *•'..• .. r * ■ \ IF y yrr , » . / ^ 36 A SUMMER SEARCH coil, he would have had it neatly amputated with a sixteen horse-poWer hip* As it was, no further damage was done than stopping the <■ cofFee mill," as the sailors quaintly called our corapact little high pressure engine., The wind at this critical moment lulling and drawing off, the jibs were run up, and in a few moments we were clear — a burden off my mind, for the time, almost insupportable. With regard to the anchorage, it appears to be very unsafe, should the wind blow from the S.W.; the only secure spot Against all weathers being the position occupied by the Danish brig, behind some low rocks, where she lay secured between four stout posts. ...1 '-"* ^ .■■'J? 'ftwri,!,* " "* __ V ^.-:^- • ' . ' **■ -:■ '\ ^,:. .•■■:_.;: '■ * ./ '- / V:X„ ' •. - ■, . \/, ■■,*„ 7 ' ^ "' / / . ■ ' V ■ 1 ■■■■ • / I »■; V -^ •" M ^f^ " ! ■■■ \ t / /••■ . / .(. ■ ./. .„ \ \/ -'r-r- L. J'Oll SItt JOHN FRANKLIN./ 37 t J 7 CHAPTEB 111. A STIFF southerly breeze ; 1; i;ll *rs«3|^g^?J;V;?» "■ ■>. Jr 88 /A__aU>IMER SEARCH soil to a miidar clime, where the ^^unTwouH loosen them /from the icy- grasp oi their ad- versary, and/ lodge ' them in the fathomless depth^elow. I made sketches and .took nume- rous observations and angles to fix the coast Iine> but the rapidity with which we passed along prevented much being dcme in the waxof sounding/ j^ A " ^" A sudgen squall bringing us by the lee at mid- night of the 17th, carried away the mainb|M)m with a |srash that awoke me from my slumbers, with the impression that we had run stem "on to an iceberg, and were sinkyig". ,v^ Our excellent old carpenter, Davidson, sopn repaired the damage by cutting off the jaws and fitting them to the broken part, thus reducing the bpom a few feet in length, which proved no disadvantage. I was very sorry, however, that, in falling, the spar had severely damaged the standard compass, in which I had placed great trust, and looked on it with great respect. The vast quantity of drifting seaweed^ which I fancy is torn up from the bottom of the sea by ■ ■--::- - ■ ■ •■■ 1 " ■■ ■ ■ • 1 ■ ■ ■ ■ "^ the bergs scraping along in tfeeir southward * .':,,■ : '"" ''..•.■.,' { , ■ ■■■'. " ■" ^ .'■:{ ' ' . , ■ ■ ■ .."■.'. . .H ■ .;■. 35^ P. % FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 39 # course, conttnuall^^Ied. the patent log, to which! naainly^^^for the distances run along the coast*. J On the eveninji^pisth we Were abreast' . of the DevlTs ilrPS); a renmitable pinnacle"^ of land, which, with another known as the' Sugar Loaf, form prominent 'features in the entrance to MelyiUe Bay. The 19th proving cahu, steam was got up, and with smooth w^ter we steamed across Melville Bay, which was fiiU of large icebergs, but they did not impede our progress. On the 2qth a %ht breeze springing up from the westward, our fires were banked up, - . and all saU made. "Cloudy skies '^j||p-equent. mists prevented all observations, and rather puzzled us as we neared a pack seen about noon from the crow's-nest. At first I was doubtful- whether it would not te best at once to dash in, and'press through it to Cape York, biit the '' > ice-masters carefuljy looked out "for a lane, and we succeeded, about a mile and a half to the. east- ward,' in ge^ting-into a^fine openmg, which gave every prospect of leading us into open water. ii r ii f i ii l iill ll II I" . ^~ .^.r- ~ ■■■■•- ~^ I it I r .f /• 40 A SUMMER SEARCH ^We had not lon^^%een struggling with the loose ice wheii a great bear came close down to the ship,to inquire our business ; I saluted him with ; a shot from "the rifle," but not striding him in a vital part he made off, and our -efforts to follow him in the whale-boat proved fruitless. I was sorry to leave the poor brute so bWly wounded, and my dogs wete as much in need of the flesh ' as I wa^ of the^skl^ to fulfil some of the pro- mises I made to my friends on leaving England. ,- Having succeeded in passing through the pack, and in reaching the open water, we pushed eagerly on ; while the sun bursting forth dis-, ' polled the mist, and gladdening our hearts amidst the soUtude of ice and snow,*rkpidly thawed the latter that lay on our decks and . yards after a morning shower, which, though slight, had covered them. ■ , *.'/ Forty-one days only. have elapsed since we tripped anchor from Peteriiead, and here'we are in ^ielville Bay, three days later only (as re- gards the period of the season) than die Penni|: Expedition of last' year, with apparently a /ar v,._.d mr . - 1' • '0 ■ * ■ ■ . y" ■ ,- t '^*f^ : 2^:L ' V-v-.. I ■' -. ■ i>,.-' « . s ' * ' ^^: *>m _ -m .■«*:' >OIl SIR, JOHN FRANKLIN. 41 witku consort or with aiiyordb^ ,^_ i. A clear sky'and a tolerable horizon enabled ^^ ^^ «^*ain a good azimuth, which gave the ' ^ ^ variation 88° 19' W. ; but I had no means 6^ \ ^' , ascertaining the deviation due to local ^tmcf tion, though I endeavoured to allow a propor- " I tionate increase to thkt which was observed at ' , Greenhithe where the ship was swung previous to her departure. * » We now kept the steam continually up, ready - ' for any emergency, as the slight expenditure necessary for banking ujp. was not to be weighed against the advantage of having this all-power- ful agent ready atW^^er of an hour's caU. ^ ^*H*^h6lo#wishe^r Cape York hoved'"^^^ ^^ in sight-^ljishnan Island on the lee bmim, and ' | the Crimson., Chffs and Cape Dudley Digges " stretching far away to the northward. The coast *mnetZ tolerably free from, ice, though gigantic -- bergs were seei^ here, and there, like -^rim watchmen" of^tjie b^y, scowling on the adven- ^ turous stran^^ who,)vould teinpt those dread ^ * ^ ■ shores which had witnessed the destruction of • *' ^'. \, 'i .;lil i.. n^ !• ■•■#- /'. . T— , ir -— r^.- , -CT-Yw— ^— ..^ l! « ■^m m r A SUMMER SEARCH ■■>,. » ••»■ majif a fine vfessel, and which, as we afterwards leaijnt, had been the scCTie of the total loss of two fine whalers but a few weeks before our arrival. . v* . ■ - We kept the whale-boat always ready/wiiS a weed's provisions, so that ^ejnight be detached at a moment's notice, and not be distressed JTor twaor three days should any difficulty occur in returning. '\ . ... A \ tf>'. At four A.M. of the 21stwe wer^^ up with- ■p i}\Q loose ice, which was lyipg off Cape York ; and as I found it would be impossible to get near enough to the shore to look out for any natives, 'with whom it was veiy desirable to Communicate, we pushed boldly in, and soon comm|nced thumping our way along in the J narrow lanes as they presentfed themselves." A wedge of a ship's mast, a cask, a cork, and some staves were picked up, and at the ...„ time appeared to be well worthy of our notice ' with reference to the missing squadron, but the , disasters of the whalers in Melville Bay (which ^ we learnt on our arrival at Beechey Island) ac- ■ 7«^.0ounted for the presence of J^ese articles. \ . . /. ,: .A k <■■'■. yL_ _*L. \ «' ^ I'" ' , \ --I, '-:a ■• - '-■ f *T>' m %i i\ ~*=^ •■** ards / loss ! our tth a " --Vf—r shed ' ■::i ■\ ssed ( \; ccur 4 ' ; \ mth ^ ■ )rk;' get !' any 1 to - fl oon ,-■■"''■• '■ the rea.- )rk, , the- r^"' bice J •-•<■■'-■: the ich H • . ac-- ■"3Z" • ,,J': #.'■ '■' ' . I 'i iir 'n- -i^'i'iT T •'iti-ragn site:: .^>i- 4- I i ( s € r h h fc as th H re an :- ^;'- \ t '■■' fe — 1 — V « •:' \^ ■ «i -1 s - .^'\ » ^ \, ..J " * \ .L FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLftf. .43 ,Whils^ working^^ur way ampngst this ice, a beais^wa^ observed frofn the crow's-nest, swW ming amongst the loose pieces. A boat was' lowered and I proceeded in pursuit, but Bruin swam hard for his hfe, and we did not succeed in (Jomihg up with him, till we' w^re some ^ distance from the shi^, , A shot I put into him ' with th^M*ni^ rifle rendered him despemte, and he turned upon me, swimming and plunging v over the Wsh'ice to^et, aMe boat ; -but the i^ ^ rifle had been discharged ^d was not prepared foi^a second shot, ^nd we had not provided ^ ourselves with' an axe, a very necessary weapon ^ prevent these brutes from gdtting^ into th| boat, whf^ they1&i4ys att^pt to do when badly hurt. I was,.howew, otherwise prepared* for my ^haggjr ^i^ehiy, wM ||^ng and blowing;* as he* advanced, whisperll desperate thiiMtp those who wei^ not cognizant of Ihy resources. ' He came within a single yar(J, when a Colt's revohrei^was pulled from my breast-cdat-pocket, and waiting till his no^e nearly touched the ■ ImuzzIe-^Bruin- lay dead-his head falling be- Ween his fore-legs-and we quietly towed Vim alongside. ■.M-" I ^M ■^"^ - 1.-*^ . -•'il! ';.■:.; f:.> ^-.; V fl#. 'ii^ and hi^^ arrival was m^X w^ooipi^ ^ .r«;.^l- dogs, ^^SwiclW'" * lined themselves ^. the scraps iiscuit, arid remaiins^f pea-soup, |^Sf^Hwii*% we i^ad been forced Mfeed them. another '/-' * W:^'*'''^^ bearw^s scarcely l^oisted jri, • , *%•' >4sfeen,'and though the vessel W ,^ 1 'H ■;•,•. fe — :- ' •■'''■■"■■< 1 ^, \ > t: — k* ViU'i M X 46 %. : A SUMMER SEARCH beating "to windward, amongst the stupfenddM b^rgs that lay neajp Conical Island. An extra- ordinary spot, of granitic formation, and com- posed of a number of peaked masses/^ch seemed piled in rude confusion ov^p-^ach other ; angles, sketches, and bearingM^re taken to fix, with fliore exactitude, t^e^ast line of these rarely visited shores. A^g6od lati^de at noon, 76° 1( longitudQ 68^50", gave a baset pcJint ^r /our angles,^;£d I hoped the matter T colledted, mi^ft prove useful to the hydrography >iMiiB laid down gulf , ^^ / • Becalmed 'towards the evening, we "dkiffed tolerably close to the great glacier of ^^Petowak, and riot liking our position. surrouflQed as w6 were by stupendous bergs, one -hundred and eighty of which Jiad been counted from.the crow's-nest, I ordered steam to be got \ up. In the mean t&e voices were, heard shoutiiig from the shore, and soon Esquimaux were observed coming down the face of the glacieii* iiL" an i adjoining ravine ; they seemed most anxious we should communicate with £hem, aat^l was ehimlly willing for the visit; the whale-boat>as ... i- 1- A I \ ■ .'^ ? , « t '^ \' ' . # ^. ^ •m . " ■ ikt& .; ; ■"■ ■♦ tea-^-:-'^V -; ') >m- J J . ;': er ; i> fij?, _^ * • our lllB . ••-•■■■ ■%"» Fed 'J s y dc, 1 ■•: - W0 *■ .•'""■ md *• I ■K FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 47 1. ■■'■■. ■ \. ■ .repared> and in making our way amongst the brash-ice, which lay (jff the shore,. I was sony to observe that in every stiU ^ot bay ice imme diately formed ,v the certain harbinger V< winter. __^s glacier of P^ovirak is a wonderfiil work of ^^re, extending as it does, upwards of^ mUe into the sea, ' and four or five miles inland with a smooth unbroken Vrface ; it , carries; one's thoughts back to the age wh^n thS gigantic ice formation was in its infancy ,;^ and when, durfn^g the summer months, it was possibly but a Uttl^' purUng stream, at the head of a,deep bay. ? ^ Glaciers are the manufactories, if I might so say, of ice-bergs, and the vast reservoirs from , wh^fc^;]^roce4 th^se wondrous ice-islands. The ^acti6n of^e?sea,%kd more moderate bmpe- . rature of.fe water at the foot of the glacier r.. cause gre^t pieces of- ice to \>^ dislod^d, which ,«; ^sHpping 6fr the parent stock; are launched fortb» -^ no belied south by winds and tiSes, tiU a° Wepfpate, melting their sides,' (which I . Kavelfen occasionaUy pouring forth a torrent of • w^J^J^ngles tte mass with the mighty deep. - Unto Approaching a ^Uttle s^dy bay near I* '! :'tr'i 'u; ^ ; /i II m ') . Mi •\ / 48 /• ^* AjSUMMKR-SKAHOH . "^ .\*fhich the ntrfll^fRpnSl vflten^'bur amval with spme^anxioty* I observed that they con- jr. suited awhilb and then seanofpered offJi iSJI .at. V I ...a. «"'♦' 50 A SUMMER SEARCH" half off the shore, and which, I shoij^d suppose, is covered in . spring tides. . ' How I longed for time to survey this coast! The chart was .80 incorrect that I was compelled to trust to iny wits, and every opportunity was ■ embraced^ for* getting observations and angles to fix its outline more exactly. The wind heading as we approached Cape Atholl, we were oblig^ to ply under steam and sail to windward, ?ind bSlore.S a.m. of the morning of the 23rd,"we w^e well inside the point. Whilst aloft i» the^ crow's-nest at four' o'clock this morning, ob- serving something floating behind a piece of ice, which attracting ^,my attention, I hurried ' down, and immediately lowering one of the light '•"boats, went, with one other hand, to examine it, and found it to be a part of a ship's, deck with a heavy piece of iron bolted firmly to it. ^ Long afterwards we learned that it must have been ]paxt^m~me American whaler that was lost in Melville Bay, but at the time it attracted a good deal of our attention,^ and excited no littie interest in people eagerly searching for informa- tion of any kind. :x/.r r \r::^:: ^' FOR SIR JOHN KRANKUK - 51 ^ : The Strong northerly current along ihU shore IS weU- shown by the above circumstance; and yet,be It remembered that we bad ^perienced heavy gules from the northward, so that the . strength of current may be appreciated which h^d carried thia drift in a few weeks so for ^^"^^ the coast and against a northerly wind A fine calm day enabled us to make a careful and close exammation within pistol-shot of the" shores of Wplstenholme Sound, which we fol- lowed without seeing either inhabitants or any traces of human beings till we reached the si& pf the winter quarters of the North Star, which weremarked by the grave-stones of the poor L lows who had died during their long winteL night on that inhospitable shore. ' ^ ' ^ At the back of an extraordinary looking rocky J»tcaJIed Mount toda^ was seen ^e village - r ■ '*/''''^^^;^^'^ a tenn-of North OmenaJ.. Wishi^ Jf^examii, ^^^ j^^^ ^^^ nati^ie graves, I landed with a party of officeiB and men, weU prepared with pickaxes and shovels, and commenced our not veiy pleasing operstion. ^ m- 'II. m \ ' >• lil til i . '' vM i A SUMMED' SEARCH ^ Each hut and storehouse was closely lopked - "into, and from some of the graves we turned out the filthy clothes and household goods of the, • natives, so that nothhig of importance might escape oiir notice, being anxious that nothing should be len undone th^t could for ever set at rest the malWant story of Ada|n Be,ck a$ to /. the murder of^ir John Franklin and his. .*v ^' m '' p"^ ^^v- .1 1 ■ . FOB SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 3 ing exctifsiops. and would ifetum in th^inter to .North Oxnenak. These people, H. would seei^ - liJce their more feshionable brethren 6f our u/re ciymzed yhorfes, change their ^qdes purine summer and winter. In aUminei-.they dweU in seal-skin teii^ shifting them fi^quen% to hunt ^ f^jm as well for ttieii- present wants as , ^ for their stores in >^nter ; during tlje nine., dark . mon^ of rwhich they hiiddle themselves toge- *' i , therein an uAdeiigroun^i burrow, ^ere^% " 0- #an^f ah oil lamp, they mana^^to sustain ^ sufficient caloric to^Jjeep tlie body from fizzing/. : %s these poor creatures 'exist, happj^ during H the plenty of summer; and'ui^Iess impjovidence or scarcity shoul^d a^il them, c6n<^ted during ? •aaf severity of winter Which ,d#6s all other v , animals^to Some milder regions. * • ' ' ^vingcarefolly examined N(^;^ ' JgJ^rmmed to coniplete t6e s^aijch of Wolsten- ' ;;^n,te:So|,^d, by deainihg, as close as possible .?: , roUndthe r^^^nder of th^ bay,, for ,Mch ^ ; v. .fi^fj^ . .puiHe we returned on board, and the patent"' ^ ' ' ' ' 'WM U ^%Mng set, wew^ able to riinia ierie^^f v , ' /: - jpr 1 3 ^^ ^^^ in order^Ui ceHify.the $m,nsions ' ' ■ ^t •' ^'' ^|> 1^11! \y. .^i'^-^- ■^•* '■ -■-IL^' '.«,;v .'.f-'- :^;v, *'■ ■• .. 'r-'-t'iLfl r^i>^'' •■ ■ " . •:• ■->■ .*;"-.^: -.-'r -;..•:. ^'.:ii:-"i|r , -^BSi^; . tf ' ■*■■ A Summer search :J" "WT of the sound. The result was that the distance ' froin Mount Dundas to the extreme eastern shore is fourteen mileij, which somewhat re-^ J./ duces the present outhne of the sound. About ^enty miles from the tase of the sound,.and Allying about one-eighth of a mile off the north shore, iWQ small islands, imnoticed on the.chartS,' ' "' were seen, and having taken angles ahd sketches ' to secure their positions, we passed oU'to the; . examination of Granville Bay. ^ ^ Here I was surprised to observe that' two * , islands placed in the Admiralty chart, jas" blocking up the entrance of thiit bay, were not' to be seen, and again, that some little distance off the west point of its entrance, three curiously . _ . shaped low islands of trap formation, lying in a south line of each other, were not mentioned there. To satisfy myself of their true position,- we made a board in to the mouth of the bay, and a ske tch ^a s tdken of thpa. These tiiree i^and», - ' y I named the X^ree Sister Bees, after the three industrious young ladies j«rho had supplied «me >, with tlie^oUs for the Greenland children. li|| The two islands, y.before discovered, were " - -^ 1 . — \ •■■, a •1 a d » h al ■ « •4 ni so ^ ob \ • pe ' .* -*.■.■ -r -) ' ' SU] «"r tJ\~ t''« ' .J ••v r. V 1^ ^. 4 jt- ,«' ,nce ;§m re^ taut and irts," jhes the; two as*; not' ince isly : in ned ion, and ids, M*ee mie v,i' ■•-, ■r ere " •• •■1 '>1 , Ml. r — J,- FOR SIR J^iN FRANKLIN. \ 55 learned the Manson Islesilaiier our'ile-master \ ^ who^wa^ the first to observe them; and aneigli- ' ' bouring cape was called after Mr. AbWlethy,' 'who.Was my second in command. ,\\ ' In passing out of Wolstenholme Soiind\bec tween Saunders Island and the main, ye\w *%numerous gkciei^ and-s^rever the eye i ^^^btelo wander far inland, it fell upon nothing. r; but vast sheets 'of Jce. The sound was toler-\\ ably clear of ice, but in the bay thire were A ifJ^rf J^ ««^*-^^ .a^c^the loose ,. . V' ;; floe pieces .were seen ^eat'numti^of walrus .,' and seal, the fornifer allowing us la app^oacji t'. y close enough to have ,put a harpoon>to^eip, ' ,had we been so prepared, Ij^ijt o^^sliots only ;\ * " I had now been on dec^ two diys and two"* , . ' nights without sleep, and nature demanding ^'''* -' some^r^st^i^as obKged to Iliscontifiue my V" ' ^ . . ' ^4; observations for a few houre; but having no '' /* / ; -^person to take my pl^ inthatduty> it much '" '^'k ' . . 5* grieved me, thusjtolSse the chance 6f'*securing ' .:' . ''^' It 1' ' • sufficient angles to fix the positions of aJl the /»'■ "r, % ' .V, ^ • » 1^ '..*»« ...'»'• >/ ,vl . , i- * -^ 4ii': . ''^ 56 A SUMMER "SEARCH " '^ ' * ^i^oints and islands ; •> but as I knew .that we wer^ ^ ■ . approa^liug more "important ground, I de- / tennined to fortify myself foy the work that wab.in store, . V' ihe morning ?«: • -^of 350. f^t high, and shaped sotnewhat like a -«'. .'ibell, .forming an invaluajble landmark for* the~ entrance of Booth Sound. That plate I "had intended examining; but the wind hea(fing-as we neg,red it, wfe. were obhged to c^ntnience 'J V. . * beating, -and '^diortly the Tieavy sea-*\i^fuch ensued obliged .*ts'^' bear. up, and we steered [ ' away with thl^vi^ention of taking shelter in ' j ; ♦ Granville Ba;j^'^'°^bwever, when near Blackwood ,.. r » , "Point, the "^^d moderated, and under steam . /^we endeavoured to push along the shqi« in the . . * direction of Cape Parry. NumerOT^b^irgs," . . , however, which had grounded off' Booth Swind, " j '\ _j^4 rendered it difficult to approach, and cleariv --J^^^-^ .'; shewed -that shoal vwater lay off it, andws we '*,^,„, V, ' neared the nortbem point of the entrance ofjiie * :* ,^' Bou^j the wiod, again freshening and heading^ ♦ .; ; • obliged u^afaja to put the helm Up, drid . so \ve* ■ f /.-'■^ .»•- "* "/^ '*■<>» SIR JOHN' FRANKLIN. V.i 5Y ,..•*'■ ,. • bore away a second titoe for Granvi^e Bay /A third time the same change occumug, 1 de^ mined to t.y ^d beat a^ |t, ^d. at last! succeeded in holding „Sr own, though Ve pas«Kl - a stormy night. " ' ' " ^ ^ Here Uie strong h^rfy set was again^e- :^ J ^^*«^^««ei«sI^or^^w,eping.supeaeUime ^^. towards the point frok ^hich we' had run back . f_ . ana not unfrequently giving us ca4 for much • - -^ /an^ety on account of the grbunded beigs, as ,/^we drove so- mpidly past, that we h^d some , . / v.aifliculty in qlearihg them. ° . >^ >» ' - v ' The gale we had been expecting blew with ^ so^e fu^and the ship having be&i placed • / * under snug sail with her head off shore, we 4 - ,,r routed it out till noon of the 25th„when we , ^und ourselves about fifteen miles east of the • * ^ ,. Cary Islands. There I ob^ined agoed latitude; ' - ., , and my si^ts at nine supphed a tolerable ^ . , ' : gitude; these with the variation and tnie bear- - h ^ \ Jngs, observed at the same time, prov^.useful . ^-.^■inatteron which to b^se my new work, asmy ." -^ . «>^?.r, i^/ j^: U . Ihond the Hydrographer^Jjad warned, n^e thaiT" k;*^^/ : xl i§ f L;. ; WlUantf ^.the norfchwiMtl c^ ^.. . (j^^yyt^^ /■; P ■'» ' ■' "" • '. 'A*. -r V i ■ ' " ,'.■'./ ■■.'.'VJII ' ' „ ■■,■*;■-'•»*«•. . ■ -'^ * : ' '■ - *•• *,«•/■ "■ «' j{. ■ '.Jf f ^^1 y-fi^ I i.-' "■KVfr « K * w .........z^^.^l^ _ i t^- •A •.* 58 A SUMM£R HEAKCH was new, and s6 in earnest I commenced a careful running survey. ,^ Tiie fine clear sunny day tnat now smiled upon us, having enabled us to pass C«to^; Pairv within a mile and- a half, w€ closely inspected the shore, and /soundings were .<0ibtained at forty- five fathom^-^light cplojired ^and. A i^all bight, two miles by patent log inside the cape, was passed, and soundings obtained there of the same depth. Cursorily eiaitoining this iittle bight, I should c6nsider a v^sel might find tolerable anchorage, and on a pinch, perhaps, conceive a winter harbour^ might be secured there, as a low reef seems to protect its entrance. Passing on, we came upon a stream of fresh water-ice, and beittg ripw rather short of water, having pumped out our t^njss rather' too soon, we got on board, in ballast ba^ets, a quantity of the purest ice, which, though floating in thie briny element^ when melted has no brackish ,#ste, "apd is generally found puret than the snow. ;\" .'.« » i» ./ •J Dr. Sutherland was actively Employed' 'f*- '♦ / collecting sea-weed, which We found fio$,tihg iu^ :%' .** •' % "f ■ 4 *--JS- ^ A / ■r. .• \ M a led Ded ty- all pe, ;he tie hd m, ity ■' he sh ;.: he ! »,^^^ ip.-^.^.„*_i^l «•' I FOR SIU JOHN FRANKLIN. ps, ed ce. ' ' '. II sh ^^! #^^ ■• - V, ^ . '59 V' F"** abundance. Some pieces that lie^ibtained when exaniined, proved to he Encrusted with zoophytes ^n^serpuUe, and^tJie roots to contact » I bivalve and other varieties of ^ell.n \ : .The 4a literally swarmed ' with "fol48;of'thi:^ -^^inp»#mwute din^ension^ i-^ke 6etochilus, mdeh distributed here, attains an unusual .^ize, one or : two of these which we.,o6tained were three - . quarter^ of an. inch in kngth, and of the sagitta ■ ' .-.^ome were fully two inches long :-6.r:oe' are most abundant, and the cUo sM Imiacine meet *he eye m every cubk'fbot of water ::iSpecimens ^ of ^- these Mere preserved by our exceUent " ^ • naturalist, who wojfeed with untiring zeal in this branch of res^rcLf • . ' ^ . Alfer tun^g i^fc^^one^ mfc'fcm CapA. • „ Parry along the shore, huts were obser^ in a / hight that proved to be a small deep water bay, md shortly ailerwards natives, were observed ranning abom, And evidently anxicms that we should approadi tile shore^. ,:*, ". ''■'". - .' , When near enough, the boat was |o\ver^ and the doctor, Mr. Abernethy, aiul myself landed, to -, make soH|e acr}uaint^;«;e,Wtfi"the.new comers. • . ./ . -; / 'R^-- '1 i'" f ' I - ' V.I P<^ 'ij I ;■ v| 1. ♦ * '.< *i. •«♦ h « » >.- 'V -AST "r «.vv ^it^U\ ■ / -'\ >■■■ *■■ -t~- -''^^:*»v"--- ' > )1 60 A SUMMER SKARCH ^ .; The same fear was observed as at Petowak ; and the same means having tranquillized them, we soon estabUshed ourselves on a friendly footing with them. , ^ . , They at first indulged in the most extravagant ^augtter and gesticulation, examining our cloth- ^ ing and our boat with unfeigned wonder and admiration; they were swathed in fiira md skins, and as filthy as can well be imagined J no kyacks were seen, though nimierous do^ and '. sledges were found at their summer habitations,' which I lost no time in visiting, as, having no interpreter, it was by this m«ans J hoped to }eam intelligence of our' missing^^ countrymen; r Their miserable wintefohoveig were passed on y our way to their summer tents, atod one of the former having the dooj* blocked up by'a stone, • which I removed, was found d co»tain.the dead , . >}>0dy of'a, plan. T have since learnt that'it is at . . vfrequent custom with Esquimaux, when the last' '■'", «?f* family djesto let his house form his iomk --^' 'jinfl ISjivjrig hiHj where he di^d, close^ up the ' 'f- "^j^ure^i^hd forsake the neighbourhood. '.^' ' ' ■ S^^ftef »^<^aikmgfor aboyt a mile and a ] ^ Ml /■■: "N half wo ^, i. t, , M\ ^*y V - * "A* ^ r ■ V V^'V •i ^ « ■ M,-^'; i. \. i 1A ' 1 .*' came to the summer tents, which were misemte- d.rty a«d so small that the ntober intended to dweU „. eaeh eould only be provided with shelter by.hnddKng together in a mass, with t»wely rpom to move hand or foot Each hut was careiuUy searched for En^pean articles of manufecture; but afl tha* eould be ■ discovered wasa knife-blade, stamped B. Wikon, ««^««^-.and set into an ivoiy handle, the ; .~^a Vrd wo^edaxe-Vithout handle, a dJap-dat^ tm e^(,, ,^a som^small pieces of steel, euriously fixed in oie p^ „f bone, so - as to form a;-c6ntinhous blade. 'A' piece of rope ' was fou.d witlTan ey. spliced in one end; but ■ • '^\^ «o Protoly been dHffrf.„„ ,h„,e from • ^7!¥^''■■*'•" 4 importance-wal attached to it; '' , whde^e other Articles had most profcably been ,,; oUamed m barter with other Esquimaux who /J. had ^een whalers forther «out%^„d>.^o^ , y weU W nomadic habits mfeht lUmnt for ;;. their reaching, so high a latitude, as within ' twelve and a half degrees of the polej ' . v ' On.our ,^ay to tbose||i,|er habitjtionit # •> « ■ i several stores of bi«bber a^ _1 ■'-^'■t'*'^' and , walrus I'fri ^■»" ■ !i*i ; I' it I 5!, I t.>^. \:'^:MW^W^ > t w 62 ■*■.; •■;= ' ^^l '• '■ ''-i Bl • ^: •A ( ■ • ■.■»". ■ ■« ■ .' 'Iv ■' *• -- ,' V' * • :% -:& 1 i 1 i . 1 i I( s ■' t] si h > tl si is] t an \ tO( 1 -'-'-■■^■'" ' ^h€ .^sea '■"■■'■■»■■ bea "sho call 9 - Ad] . • * • "XT.. IX. ■ V iujherto conaideml j eo„l|^»l^^ w« • composed of a group of islandlRiit tl^ ' -emed to Be cK.ny.„fe„t pa^^^ Ltween t^em. IIoMnotimeWa.it waa near »id- n.gtt m proceeding to, the ress^I, and finding tor ^ome^l^nce fi«towhen.I j^i^H^:; tha she had twice struck mther ieavify on a sunken rock in the middl^ of, the little hay "we h«l enters TlK.bgh. she wa. Jsaid. to hSve • trfembled for* anrf aft fo,m th% violent concus- -■ s'oh, yet I believel!,o mjury was ^ustairifed , ■ . -In passing between the newly discovered ^islands, which I named affeHMff Grace th6j3rst &rd of the Admiralty, Northu^erland Island and another I eaUed after Sir Thomas Herbert I •took DBmerqus angl ./^■■^v; ;"■■"""■." "-^'>:j •■■■; ■4r\'^ ■.'■'■ ^^■'"■' - *' a J* "1 ■ ' ' ' *»■ .... ,;-,.-......-;. ^w^... :'■■._[-'■" .■' ■■■.-■ I ■■■' > ^ fc*s ■^, '^iLi^: / J IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 US ~ "^ la liJ 12.2 |40 |L8 1.4 i 1.6 - 6" Fho togK n A ic ■' / x^-.- ¥f^ a>^ •< .Sciences Corporation 23 WBT MAIN STRIKT WltSTIR,N.Y. USM « (716)t71-4S03 * ^^^ ^^A W^^ V^ '^ ■ft •-* ^ \- V & ^ ^■, -^ , ' -/ .^ '•*. cl^ ^^. j4'A "n,,*' ■. vm ■ y, .,/ y- ■'■■■ /;. VxV % "4- - -^ \' ■' "~:v, - -.#« 5*^^ t ~7 . -^ - ' /•V'- --. *'~ „#'■ "■ w G4 A RUMMER SKARCII Another island between it g,nd Hei-bprt Island, 1 called after the Earl of Tyrconnel. ' Tliis fair strait, which I called after my kind friend the President of the Royal Geographic Society, Sir Roderick Murchison, opened pyt to us a field foir discovery, that proved almost too tempting for me to withstand the puisuit. I had a severe struggle in my own mind,\ w^i a sense of duty to our lost countnrmen, VWch plainly pointed to the northward and westwaVd, prevailed, and sailing away WB manftilly turned our backs on a fairer opportunity for researa and discovery than often falls to the lot of man to be offered. < j On we stood northward, every few miles making numerous observations and sketches, to which the well-stocked angle and sketc}i-book will bear ample witness. A reef, existing off the north-west point of Northumberland Island, was detected by the fleet of icebergs that were grounded on it. Hakluyt Island, of Baffin, so incorrectly laid down in the char^, was properly fixed, and proved to be many miles to the east- ward of its supposed pcNiition. Hf^ I •-t^ - ir _1A A* ■' i I FOR SIIV, JOHN PRA>fKLIN, 65 The strong northerly set before experienced was still felt, and in a calm iff the north point of Northumberland Island, nearly occa- sioned bur falling off board a large grounded;^ „ hetg ; for the current seemed here to be split by 4he south angle of Prudhoe , Island^ and thus to" set tl^rough Murchison Strait as well as towards Smith Sound.- Steam got up, we^made rapid progress from such an unwelcome associate ; and .now, the vessel under foil command of ^eam, ^%*^^ current, we sped away to the north- ward, and by twelve, p.m., of the 26th, found ourselves within half-a-jnile of Cape Alexander,* /"of which the view given njay form a tolerable ' ' notion. Soufiding at this distance from j^Ji^ shore we obtained 145 fathoms— sand and Walt spots. . . . ' . ,/ We wete entering the Polar Sea, and wild thoughts of getting to the Pole— of iSnding our way to Behring Strait — and most of all, &f re^hing Franklin and giving him help, rushed rapidly through my brain. A few hours and we should eithet be secure in. our winter quarters, or else plying onward in the unfreezing Polar Basin. m \ !l *r'' (Id A SIMMEU SKAHCIt CHAPTER IV. As may well be iiiia^nfted my time was now fully enj^aged, and my/ pencil and sextant were rarely out of my hand by night more than by dey. Siba-weed was observed flpa^ig in abun- dance on the water, its roots cofnlpng several- species of cotter i'as and bivalyesj aniJ the sides of Cape Alexander were covered Hvith bright green mosses iind grasseL .^tiThis headland, is jather remarkable, and a/ smaH island, a httle to the southward, whicli/ I called Sutherland Island, not loss so. Tiife/shore between Cape^ Alexander « and Capo Robbtxson is of .that peculiar tabulated form so remark»i)le in Lancaster Sound; but this table-land was broken up by vast glaciers, which bursting forth through the yielding ravines pour their yearly trpute of icebergs out upon the deep. ..^ ^^ \^. ■■ . ^ ^ # .^- .^j^-: % "' KOK SIK JOHN KKAXKI.IN. «: ^ ^ i- On roundinnr Cape Aloxandcr the full glory of beinjr actually in\ tJio l>«lar Sea burst' upon my thoughts, for tiion I Uheld the open sea stretching thcough sWen points of the compass, and apparently uneniunibered with ice tliou|h' bounded on east anir.^ by two distinct .headlands; the one onVtho western shore was named after His lioyal Highness Prince Albert; as, by a hapjiy coincidence, it was at h^Ke I'.M., on Jiis birthday, that |he point was first observed. lifimediately to the northward of Cai)e Alexander somt) extraordinary table-topped cliftH attracted i>ur notice, and so perfectly even and marked into galleries did they appear, that my mind immediately associating them with the glassy sides of the Great Exhibition, .[ named them the Crystal' Palace Clifts. Very careful sketches were made of the head ' lands, and ahgles were taken to fix their position. ' The changed appearance of the land to the northward of Cape Alexander was very remarkable '^south of this cape ; nothing but snow-capped hills and cliffs met the eye, but to the northward, an agreeable change semed to 1 *. ♦ i ■ til ■f "! »4 ^ t' / J'-V '^"^ I \'l- 68 A Sl'MMfcR search" have been worke'd by some invisible agfency- here the rocks appeared of their natural black or reddish brown colour, and the snow, which had clad with heny^ flakes the more soutlifiaf shore, had only partially dappled them^in this higher latitude, whilst the western. shore, which was ~ girt with a belt of ice upwaitteuf twelve iniles broad, seemed clad with perpetual snows. We pushed on while the weather was fair, and beautiful indeed was the prospect before tis; thfe ' sun had just sheltered himself for an hour bielow the horizon, and still shot his rays far into ihe northern sky^ tinging the snows on the western land with crimson hues, and' throwing a glbw over nature which ill accorded with the biting cold." As the morning of the 27th dawned, the wind drew to the northward, and freshened too much to admit of our steaming — accordingly the tacks were haufed on board, and we commenced plying to windward amongst the and floe pieces, which were now drifting southward. No time was lost, and everyone on Doarcixseemed anxious to push on, but Provi- dence had ordered otherwise, the breeze which \ . \ ■ ^ . '^% • • \ * \^ ' «' . ■m-'^ FOR isIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 69 '>. i..». ■«* had now increased to a modeiate gale, beat sorely against (Mir little barque. Stretching over to the west fi^e, with ^ view to making careful se^^fo^^ (^irjjs, we were stopped by the vast bo^^jpe, ^hich was twelve miles in breadth, m^, firmfy'fixed to the land; At nine I obtained tolerable sights, but the refta»;f 1 tion and encumbered horizon made us far from ^^'' certain.as to the actual altitude of the sun. / As we ran back to the east shore, I measured by patent log the distance,' and estimating tl^ ice to be twelve n^les wide, I found tht^ part of the entrance to the Polar Basin, thirty-six miles across. The western land showed at some distance'* back a high range of mountains, which were called after His Royal Highness the Prince^ Wales; and these terminating in the extreme' northernmost point that we could see, I called after our most gracious queen, Victoria Head; and the bay intervening between that and Cape Albert, was named after the Princess Marie, present Duchess of Hamilton. Other capes on the west shore were called afl«r the Earl of fMmi m • T^ -:^^ ■ *^-, 70 vr A Ml'MMfCK HKAKCII 1 ^: Canliperdoxvii, Colonel Sabine, MImh CracrofTE%k (niccp of Sir John Franklin), and Major Wade. Two high niountairM near Cape iHahella were named Mounts Leedsjxafter IIjh Grace the Duke of LcedH, and my Lord Bolton. On the eastern liind, the furthest northern point we observed, was called after His Danish Majesty King Frederick yil., being the most ijbrthem point of his dominions, and in gra- titude for, the assistance and attention so unreservedly shewn to me by' \n4 Majesty's officials at the Greenland settlements. The nearest bay to this point was called aftqr Lady Franklin, and the next cape ^pi^h, aft^r my very kind friend, Lord Douglas, now Duke of Hamilton. Names were given to other {joints and bays after Admiral Hyde Parker, my friendB Mr. ThelluBon and Mr. Thorold, and two points to the northward of a cape, which I called aft^r my friend, Lord Hatherton, were respectively named Stafford Head and Pelham Point. An island just to the northward of the Crystal Palace (Qlifts was called Littleton Island, aftcr l«Hi[«h ~ vu'igi?!';;''' wve.' -,ianp* 1C=1«G- V'ff^»TTT~- " -*rcrieH*''-sr-!r3i**'t3^- ■TtSfVif '*'*!» van ♦I ■ — \ \ '» V h ■ * \ j " •f- KOIl Ml M JOHN FHANKUN. 71 the Hun. Mr. Littleton, and «aerwurclH « Hut t^»I>H inks Keen f«r,i^rtl., rticclved the nan.e - "f X<»u,H Napoleon Island, in honour of tl,<. tremh P,.3Hident, from .>.on, I had recci.^1 Honie vor>' flattering attcntionn. -We continuc.1 beating: to windward tiTl n.K»n hut now much icx) n.n,nienred dria^ south' H*ld c,>nHidenihly in,,H,dt.l our pro^re^; leo t J wa« sben for ahead, and by some, an iee-blink wa« obHerved to Uie extreme north, though my own unpre^ion in, that them wan not£^„ the ' cant Hhore that would have >n)vent a calm, but a heavy swell, the thick fog and mist remaining, precluded our seeing any dis- tance before us, and thus we imperceptibly drew too near the JMJ|Pack off the western shore, ^ that a Uttle If r Mr. , Abemethy had come on deck in the morning watoh^ I was called ^ up, as he said that the>ip was drifting rapidly into the ice. Soon on deck, I found that there was no question on that score, for even now the loose pieces were round us, and the sweU was rapidly Ufling the ship farther in to the pack, whilst the roar of the waters surging on the vast flo^ pieces gave us no very pleasant idea of what ?U ij' ■c v^ 74 A HJl'MMKH HEAKt'll woiikl iKj.uur fiitcv if We Vere fairly outra|i|Nxl i»- iliiH triKtiiful chaos. TIio wlialo-buat wiw lowered, and iv feot>lo etTort made to get li^r head a- ration was made for tlie worst. Each man* on Imard knew he was working for his 'life, and each toiled with his utmost mifjfht ; ice-ancliors were laid out, diid hawsers got upon, eitlier b9W and quarter, to keep the ship from driving far-' ther in,' but two hours must elapse before we could ex[>ect the use of^ the dhgine. Eager were the inquiries when mtf't%e steam be jip ? and wood and blubber wgrovlieaped in Ibhe furnace to get up the gr^test heat we could command. ^ At last the engineer, reported all was reiuly,^ ^d then warping the ship's head round to sea- 9 J V • I ft ''f--'\w^~ ■I ' ■:««^ -/. y .•-^■*iS.-. Hf" ('4 ^ M * "^ ./' 9 "1 (.ttvsiM Pftl ALL Ll.iK S C'\^'L A, IjtANIK l\ ■f :v- «f?, /J* .■ „ ■ .' ;«■■ .V V ' '} ! '",- -: • " ■ "' ■ ' ;■ ■;^■, :-^''' . }•■■'. ■ ■ - . ■ ?-... , - ^# •■***v> .-'-■' ' -" ■# . ^ -^ " r. - ~ ' - • ■'■A--. ^, • ■-A . > "' ■r t : .'\.r :- "^i ~ « ^ J. * ^ f * . Vi"- ••■ 7 ' - ... •> ■ « , , ■ , . ^'.;,. •^ '-* ■'" - *: ■is: o f o CI CD CO UJ X O CO O Q- tO O or LlJ O cr o ■•II;] ■ 1: V Ml ' I'l If , . I . HI?'" 4 M It::? v'il-; ■.-■mi" i V \. )■ t. ( i 'fl ii -f.p- ~\ ^* „ •-"I ■ V ■ / / / •^.<.—>" war at 1 deiK Ii the exp( the anxi then /"Ea drop diffic daiiij nishc t that when servi( for oi winte these Th lowed and h ' . .--■ , i » _U. , ^k^ I • • "l ■i^^'i. ^-■■- ^ »■» ^.'Ju -— •- '^' > f -f.p- ---t.J'. ,,.£. i- KOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN ,75 ward, we screwed ahead with great ilaution, and at last found ourselves, through ' God's provi- dence and mercy, relieved from oiji-^^culties. It was a time of the deepe^Tsuspense to me ; the lives of my men and the success of our expedition, depended' entirely r^n the safety of thesc|?ew,\Ad'thus I watched with intensfe' anxiety the pieces of ice as we drifted slowly past them; and, passing the word to the engineer, ^" Ease her," "Stop her," till the huge masses dropped into the wake, we succeeded with much difficulty in saving the screw from any serious damage, though the edges of the fan were bur- nished bright from abrasion against thp ice. t feel sure there was^not a heart amongst us that was not lifted up m gratitude to its Maker, when we met togetherVfor our usual divine service, and a special thaiiksgivmg^^Was offered for our marveUous escape fr^ the horrors of a winter in the pack, or perhaps fi^ wreck among these frightftil masses. The western shore was now attentively fol- lowed with our glasses, and certain cabes, inlets, and bays, jiamed as we passed them, thbugh we "paiings. ^ As soon as the boiler had '^cooled sufficiently (though it was Sunday night), the engineer and ; ^lacksmith recommenced its repairs, and before Anoming it was finished. A The 30th found us off the headland, which had been called by previous voyagbrs Crarence Head. Two inlets, seen distinctly to the north- ward of this, were called after the Earls Talbot and Cadogan, and a series of points were named . Gale Point, Paget Point, Dunstterville Head, Cape Faraday, Pence Point,. Bofer Point, and Cape Combermere, the lai^te'r after the Viscount Combermere. A small island to the northward of this point was called after the daughter of one of my friends, Mittie Island, and a double coned mountain, a little to the northward of Clarence Head, named Mount iGlentworth, after the Dowager Viscountess Glentworth. On the 31st, at four A. M., we entered. Glacier Strait, and thou'gh under steam, and though it was nearly calm, little progress was made, not moving \ *?;. FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. mucli ^,^ than three knots, owing to the' set out of Jones' Sound, which I consider was at ,vthe rate of ahnost two miles an hour to the eastward; various observations, angles, and sketches, were taken to fix Cobou/g and Kent Islands, and the seveml headlands. Light variable wind& springing up towards noon, we commenced plying to windward, but closely examining the coast as wd^sed along^ not a rock or stone, that did not receive froA one of the many telescopes always ready, the closest scrutiny. We were not unfrequently startled by rocfes that ha^ the appearance of cairns, and crevices m the glacier that were mistaken for flagstaffs and sometimes by the singular ^Jipeaxance of smoke seen amongst the hills, and veU known to Arctic voy^rB, as a kind of steam or fog that 1 IS drawn from certain parts, by what I suppose to^ be uhequal radiation. The nigjit of the 31st ^ spent in beating against the westerly wind, which had now freshened to a stiff breeze, and Cone Island and Smith Island were passed A cape on the north shore of Glacier Strait trto* I! ft I r' N, 78 A SUMMER SEARCH was caHed C. Tennyson, in honour of the Poet Laureat, and an extraordinary shaped island, reached about noon of the Ist September, was called Sir Bl)bert Inglis Peak. Indifferent observations only could be obtained, for the drifting ice so encumbered ^Mb sea, it was almost * impossible to be sure of the horizon, and here and there it was obstructed by vast icebergs, 150 feet in fi^ght. , The timfe was noW approaching when we must expect ter ber ;frozen in, and I began to cast about 'ah anxious eye, for a winter har- bour ; nothing however that could afford a shelter from tlie rigours of a northern winter could be observed, and it was also evident that we must not long remain in our present position, unless sheltered by spme land that would give ' protection from the drift ice. Already we had passed through vast fields of floe pieces, sonle of them five and tvfenty feet in thickne^,' and a change of wind would brings them back upon us wijl^ a crushing violence that nothing could withstand ; still on we plied, till after our observations at noon, made just to the \: FOU SIH J(,HX FKANKLIX. 79 sc^uthward of Ttifrlis IVak, when to our mirprif^, on drawing a little farther to the westward, we found the north shore suddenly turning away to the northward while the south shore of the sound continued to stretch away in a westetj^ direction, till lost in thte distance. * . Farther to the westward no land could be dis- cerned, hor was any visible between the extreme north-west point, and the south shore. Heavy drifting ice> indeed, was seen every- where, and we had already found much diffi- tulty in plying through what wo had passed in the^ forenoon. It was foggy at two o'clock, and, therefore, ' little could be done in the way of examining 4. the shore, and feeling the responsibility of "" remaining in auch a dangerous position, at this ' late season of the year, I felt- it my duty to determine at once, upon quitting a locality, which, from the fog, we had no opportunity of examining ; where the shores presented so bold and rugged a front, that no human foot could have found a resting place ; and neither anchorage, nor shelter of any sort, could b^ muu M r iir.^l 80 A SUMMER SEARCH i % ■■■ R,' * obtained. Aceordkigly, having attained the longitude of *84° 10' W., in the latitude .of 76° 11' N., we bore up, and running over to the 'south shore, before the gale, which had com- menced to blow with some violence, we ejtamined, in the intervals of fog, every rock with our ,^ glasses, naming certain headlands as we passed, after my^eiy kind friend Mr. Macdonald, the Master Attendant of Woolwich Dockyard (to whom I felt so muc^ indebted for his valuable aid), Mr. Newman Smith, and my old mess- mate and chum, Lieut. Hardy. The extreme points discovered on the north shore were called Cape Eden, after the kind and excellent Commodore at Woolwich Dockyard, Cape Waldegrave, in honour of the Earl of that name, and Cape MaiweU, after Sir William Maxwell, my good friend pf Calderwood Castle. Rapidly we sped before the freshening gale, towards the eastward, and eagerly did our glasses scan the shore, but it was all in vain, no trace of anything human cotlld we observe, all yas k mass dI" ice. 'j^e southern land differs somewhat frobi the nortiiem in general aspect. t t . 'Oil am loiix riiASKi.r;(. g, the ktee/being Woke,. „,. b, ,,,^i,„; ^^,,,^ "'" '77 ''""'"^' »•>"- "■"fo™ outline of base,, fanged wUh soa-wa«hed ^k, ,„d .,„' jecting into the sound. '^ Before such a gale as we now experienced r ^:«'^' »"* '""S in passing th4h W Anne. St.i, but little did wo antieU^I danger which awaited us of the 2nd, ,n a fog, ^^ suddenly f„„„d „J «^^ under the cHirs of Cape ParL/anduT funded by heavy floe ice on oveiy side. The -ast head, whilst ice, thick heavy i«„hen».ed J. our Me vessel. A gale, or even a stiff W ftom either ««t or north, would hJ^T 2 UB a miserable wreck on this iron-bound 7!*' t <™"'P'«' l-- «P lite an empty egg ^d^^but we were again spa«d,-aS'aSr r^'"'"" f «■"««»<-* e-rtion and wearing r:'^'''''"-'^'"-"' open, which admitted of our steaming out of aU these difficulties. •n>ankfi.I, most thankful, did wg all feel for "■J 0. \ 3. %. S2 A SUMMER SRARCII this liboratioii from rtno of two jfruat diHastors, which appeared to be our inevitable fate— i winter in the pack, or 8hip\*Teck on ^i Parker; but we were still mcrcifuUy harmlessly carried on through all our ^ny perils. leaving steamed out to an ofRng] it waof necessary now to decide wha,t should be ^ur next step ; and after much deliberation, I deter- mined to risk the chance of being caugM, by freezing'-v^pFand of spending the winter out here, for the^ benefit that I might confer upon the service in which we were mutually engaged, by catrying my surplus provisions, shares, and coals .to the squadron of Sir Bidward Belcher, and by ^ving him an account of my discoveries, as well as tl^e latest intelligence from. England, only seven- weeks old. Iq^|j fca j | £M||pe. too, I \ .might car^Wk to Engl^||||^HHKthere i||P^ no doubt that I could reac^Seiore the winter, the latest intelligence of the movements of the squadron, and of their chances of success.' ^jt ^bought the benefit to the country, and th£>satisfaction to the friends of the missinsr aim searching navigators, would be well worth ':? f.'CT*, ^ "^Bp ,.^,"' KOB HIK JOHN KHANKUN. 83 /» tl.0 riHk ana exi^rtion, J tlierc-foro detomiined upon ..iaking an effort to rcaclUhe shores of Beechcy Is|and, where ^ knew the dep6t ship North Star, wa£lying. -- ' ' ■ ■ ■ - '. — '. Lightvvariable winds pfeventef| our effecting that object before tiie 7th September, whe# it produced no little surprise as. the Isabel was Heen steaming round the ^dnt of Erebus aiid Terror Bay. ^ ' When we were near enough to^see fron^ur crow's-nest the mast heads of the North Star, I had ordered one of the twelve pounders to be fired, and the people who were working on shoK were greatly puzzled at hearing such a sound, m they believed that nothing human but their own party could be within hundreds of miles of them. ^^ "\ - / ■ .. ■■'■ ^ The temperatureiiad now become sufficiently cold to freeze the seas a« they broke over our vessel, the consequence was that our bows were one mass of ice, and the anchor, which had been frozen to the yessei's side, required a con- siderable degree of coaxing to get it adrift ; by the time, however, we reached d good bertj ' i : T IT- ■.V--. ■*^^:i. t . " ■ • -' • y ^ - «■■... i. ^j. i-'^^^ ^4' A SUMMfiH SEARCU and we came too in fourteen fathoms abater. There was a good deal of loose drifting ice on the outside of the bay, and young ice was forming very rapidly in the still water, .jftear the shore. I soon .waited upon Captain Pullen, who kindly had sent a boat to render an^ssistance we might require, and giving him the letters and papers I had brought from EngMnd for the squadron, received in return all the intelligence relative to the search, and hearty congratulations on what we had ourselves done tbwards that great object. / The North Star had been in so^ne peril since the departure of the squadron; by/ the^ breaking up of the ice in the \)^y, which wa^ of fest year's formation, and into which they Ijtad with much labour cut their way to an anchiorage. A gale of wind had caused it to break up suddenly, and the ship was well nigh drifted out into the strait by the vast masses that accumulated round her bows. // . Sir Edward Btelcher and Captain KeUett hlad sailed from 35fl!iBchey Island, w^ith their steam- =4= mg:^- < - .. 4-:--- ■V ■ k -t-.,' 'f /■ FOR SIR JOHN KRANKtIN 85 , J4;eiul£a:a, aboui ^^reg w^s ~^^^^^^ "" mer up Wellington Channel and th^ latter to ^ Melville Island ; nothing since had b^n heai-d ' of either of them, and it was supposed tliat Sir Edward had gone away into open w^ter, beyond - Parry Strait. "Dr. Macqrmick * had left the • NorA Star in a boat for the' purpose of exa- . min|ig Prince Alfred and Baring Bays, and had ^ at the time we arrived been absent a fortnight. at; dnec^Jhe officer, who by his disajypointed face I coii|t^^|p^ had received no letter, offered to tate bI^ on shore, and shew me the reUcs ' of tJie missing squadron, while the others were preparing their despatches ; for we could only afford to give them a few hours, wishing to jie off on our own search, and fearing that delay might " oblige us to winter in that strait, to which we 'did : . not feel at aU inchned, after our disappointment in securing yinter quarter^ to the northward. That md/ emblem of mortaUty-^the grave —soon mef my ey^, as ' we plunged along through the knee-deep snow which covered the island. The last ' resting place of three of Franklin's people was clh^ely examined ; but 1 fc 'N^ ■'■it: A SUMMER SEARCH ■4 ■' 86 nothing that had not liitherto been observed could we detect. My companion told mlp that a huge bear was seen continually sitting oA one of the graves keeping a silent vigil over the dead. Having picked up some of the meat canisters ^ ^|^ with which the island is strewed, and made a f^ -v| collection of some of the relics of canvas aA^ wood which were still found scattered here and there, we returned towards the bi^ tgv vidential indeed was it that we had not thus been more serious difficulty^ The helm ^was soon put up/andraway^wejwent before the fevouring gale, searching with eager ^ze the western shore, as we ran down the coast, and as nea§4s ^as considered prudent. At night we fired guns and threw up rockets to attract the attention of any poor wanderers, that might be looking for succour. \ ; On the 14th yve weir'e off Ca^e Bowen, and I landed to ^ look for traces and erect a cairn; nothing, fioweJer, could be seen but the bold footprint of a hiige bear and the tiny track of a small arctic fpx. I observed the dip here; but the cold driving^ sleet prevented my taking the proper series of observations for the variation. A cairn was erected to mark the spot of our visit, and some specimens of the rock coDected for my kind friend Sir Roderick Murchison. We then returned on board, and shaping our course along the land continued our examination as far as Cape Adair, where I again attempted to land, but the brash ice extending a ipile off the losi con sto] off - . '^ "^, FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 91 the shore quite prevented it, and thus, after losing much time,^ we returned on board to continue our course, which lucklessly was soon stopped by a body of ice with which we fell in off Scott Inlet, firmly packed on to the shore. *.-...,. 'w-*"""-" i:M ■ *(' t ■ ^1 \i yjr 92 A SUMMER SUAKCll CHAPTER V. Having failed in landing at -Cape Adair we were obliged to content ourselves with scraping up anything with our dredge in the depth of. twenty fathoms. The bottom we found com- posed of decayed rock forming a fine sand, which I think would be tol^^ble holding-ground, and as there does not seiatfjto be more than twenty-six fathoms at two miles' distance, a ship might safely anchor there for a tidoy if the ice was not too near a neighbour. v. When fully assured of the impossibility of getting farther, along the coast, I determined to press along the edge of the pack and seek for an opening to carry us again in shore that our "search might be continued, and qji the 1 6th I fancied wc were about to, effect this desirable ^' .T if POR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 93 object, but to my distress I found wo were run- ning into a deep bight, out of which it after- wards cost us some hours to work. The ice that seems to have been collected at tliis point by tlie great bergs whUffi had grounded on tl^ Hecla and Griper Banks, had doubtle^ been drifted out df the northern sounds, and cdWied. souili by the continual set in that directionVexperienced on these western shores. \ My ice-masters informed me that not urif/e- ^ quently the whalers are thus prevented from ' coasting to the soutliward from Pond Bay, lut that when the ice hangs' about the River Clyde (which Ues.a little to the southward of Scitt Inlet) they are usually obliged .to stretch ox3r___ to Disko before they can get away souii. However, on the morning of the 17th, I wis in great hope that we were to be rescued fron our difficulties, for a strong breeze accompanied by a heavy sea from the south-eastward gave us cause to think that there was clear water far to windward, and that we had reaUy rounded the tail of the ice. On the 18th, hoping now to make a little (J \*- m ' f^ 9i * A SUMMER SEARClS f ft It soutliing, with the view of getting in with the west coast, we stood away in that dh-ection, but were not a little mortified at obsemi^the pacft stretching right across our bows ahii 3 veiy far ahead. Again we stretched to the nocth ward, and on the 19th, hoping we had got far enough to the eastward, another attempt was made to ' close 4he west shore, and^te^m was got up, the wind Ming light. Tt^rds noon a gentle breeze springing up, we were enabled to dis- pense with the use of our engine, and as it was Sunday I was ^lad to be able to give the smuttj stokers their day of rest. Thick sndw fell in heavy flakes during the afternoon, and beating down the wind, soon left us lying with all sail set, flapping lazily to and fro, and waiting for the breeze to freshen, which the state of the barometer gave us every reason to expect. Sit- ting reading in my cabin about five o'clock, I was startled by feeling the vessel suddenly heel over, and great was my surprise on reaching the deck to -find that a squall had suddenly struck us, and split several of the sails, ani" carried away many sheets and hauly^rds, while A' J, \' - *<-v " ^^^ SIR JOHN PRANKLIIf. 95 the flapping of the torn wet canvas ma^e it both difficult to hear the. word of command to shorten sail, and still more difficult to do what was. ordered. Our "Big Tom" was spUt to nbbons in the head, but this I soon found was rather hailed with delight by Jack, for as It was a spare mainsail, fitted to set between the foremast and mainmast, it was not veiy handy to manage, and though useful in light winds had not won good opinions from those who had to furl or set it. Ere a quarter of an hour, the sea whfch had been before so smooth now became so rough and boisterous,, as to break clean over aU. Each plunge loadirtg the rigging and spari^Wlong ' milk-white icicles, and stiffening by freezing everything it fell upon. £ * None but those who have voyaged in these seas, and taken a share in the manual laboi^of working the vessel as I have done, can know the discomfort of labour under suoh difficulties each rope, each sail, to be handled, are as thbugh • they were made of oak instead of hemp, a^d^ freeze to the.flesh if touched by the bare hand^^ .■\ ■i-i If. I r I '] I I] Mr-- f A SUMMER SKARCFI 9^ i"'V "" '■.•■.• . -^ ■ .^ iphe rest of Sunday and the following day were spent in beating against the strong north" gale t^hich followed the squall. • The pack we knew was nbt far under our lee, % and thus we were, compelled to make every effort to keep it there ; btit on the 21st, the weather moderating, we^ made an attempt to get through it, and accordingly dashed boldly into themiddle of the pack. Pancake ice was forming rapidly » everywhere, warning us that delay woidd be dangerous, and I am now' convinced, had we not been supplied with steam-power, we, should in a . few hours have been sealed up for the winter. We struggled on with our ice-masters in the crow*s-nest, conning the ship into the lanes of open water as they seemed to invite in the direction we wished to go. Aboilt four o'clock ' in the afternoon, while busy in my cabin at my , charts, I was informed that three bears were near us on the ice, and our poor dogs really needing a fresh meal (having supplied Captain . Pullen "«Hith the remainder of^ my Cape Yolifk bears), I eagerly set off*in pursuit of theintrudera. The trio were evidently composed of a mother 1 . :-^„_ ;..^r'a^"-.:-: ^.'^^ryz. ^ ' r ii^ i^i y t-u ■ \ yon SIR JOIIN FRANKLIN 97 and twins; and beinff rather anxious to secure the latter, for carrying to England alive, I fired .cautiously at the mother, but not being successful ^ in hitting her the first tithe in a vital spot, I was obliged, as she scampered over the ice to fire such random shots, that I wounded one Ind kiUed the other of her dubs, and it was nearly - seven o'clock before aU three were secured, and hoisted on board. Poor Mrs. Biiiin ! it was quite heart rending to see the aflection that existed between her and her, cubs. The latter when they saw their mother wounded, regardless of their own sufferings, commenced licking her wounds, whilst she with that natural instinct obseirable amongst all wild animals, scraped snow up with her huge paw and plastered it upon the bleeding part, to^taunch the blood by/' ^ its styptic eflfects. _ ._ *^' Wlien she began to eat the snow we knew she was mortally wounded, but even then her ca^e for the cubs did not cease, as she kept con^ , tmually turning her head from one to the other and, thpugh roaring with ^in, she seemed to warn them to escape if possible ; but their attach- * JL ^ J m *^"^- 98 A Summer search _^.^i(^_ ■/ ^ , ment was as great as hers, and tl^us I was obliged to destroy them all. It went muj4irch I must confess during some eighteen years^ of a sea hfe, I had never fairly experienced till now. Right glad was I when this tremendous gale began to, break, for though the Isabel behaved nobly, it was not a littjg dangerous driving amongst ice- bergs, which the drifting sleet and snow made it hard to distinguish from the foaming crests • of the waves. >^ Everything had to be lashed and doubly lashed, but notwithstanding this, our spare spars got adrift, the boat's falls were chafed throuo-h planks were washed overboard, and heartily did we long for "the c^lm that comes after the storm." At last the long expected lull allowed us to look about, and to see the damage we had sus- tained from the fury" of the elements; water being the first thing thought of, we soon found that there was too little on board to admit of our remaining more than a few days longJi- at II. • Mi J. \ \'f liM: 9* 102 A SUMMER SEARCS sea, a great quantity that had been stowe^ • for present use on deck, having been spoilt by the salt watqr getting into the tanks. The rigging, too, was so much rubbed, and sails so torn, that! soon found it was not only expedient, bilt aWolul^JK, necessary, that we should put injto the li^ireMi po|rt. I had been anxious t^i reach L Holsteinburg, in order to run a- meridian distance across to the wes{ shore, but the Whale-fish Islands being the nearest point we could coveniently make, we steered for them, and xm the 2nd of October, after a few dsiys of light winds, found ourselves off a small- group called the Hunde I^nds, a little south of the Wliale-fish, and by noon observing the-, flag-staff on the top of a low hill, which marks the settlement, we steered in, arid brought^up, in seven fathoms of water^ amongst d cluster of rocky islands which forms good' shelter from- any, gale. The governor pame on board to see \«hat our business was at tjiis late season of the year, but our weather be^n appearance soon told the tale for itself, that stress of Weather had * forced us in to refit! - . /J*?',. 4fj «-*^* y-^^^ ■■* \ - .P ■A .*■.;.•■•. FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 103 . W'' ' The remainder of ^aturday was occupied in getting out the long-boat, and making every preparation for work on the Monday morning. The Sabbath was kept as a day of rest, I aUowed the men to go on shore for a walk after ' divine service, and all seemed monstrously to eirjoy the opportunity of stretching their legs. They roamed over the islands, visiting the Esquimaux huts, and collecting curiosities to take to England for th^ Polls or Sues. We aU thoroughly^njoyea'this quiet day after,, the excitement and anxiety of the past week; for inyself, I confess that the rest of mind was' most enjoyable, and filled my soul with ^dti- tude to. Him; who « maketh the storm a calni; so that the wave^ thereof are still ;" and, indeed, that gladness of which the psalmist speaks when he says-« Then are they glad, because they be ,qtiiet; so he bringeth them unto their desired" haven ;" seemed to take fuU possession of one's whole heart. , Monday, thb 4th October, was commenced by watering the ship, and a lake on one of the ' near islands proved most useful for this pur- i\ io;: ^ i M H ■A ' • . \t i 104 A 'summer SEARCH pose. I engaged eight or ten Esquimaux, who readily undertook the work' without any terms, and moreover completed it without supervision V or the shghtest trouble. ^ r Having no casks, we were obliged, to clear and clean theiong-boat out, and then towing her V to the nearest point of the lake, filled her with ^ water and brought her alongside, when the Esquimauk completed the fidendly operation of ,' bahrig and pumping the water into our tanks, y^he 5th land 6th proving calm fine days, I was ^ enabled to swing the ship for local attraction, ,^ and was much surprised at finding how .great the deviation had become. - " An island, fifteen miles distant, seemed a good object for the constant bearing, aiid the islands and rocks surrounding the- vessel , ' proved very useful for securing the hawsers, which were employed to cast the ship's head to each point of the compass. In the appen- ^ dix will be found the result of these obser- tions, and by a comparison ^v!fh the second and fqurth columns, it will be seen'Tiow much the .. ^ . local attraction had altered with ithe difference \ \. I' ' yFOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. . i05 if", - ■ ',-■ of latitude; according to ouf^^roximity to the - magnetic p6le and its rapidly varying dip. ' • 1 obtained a good set of observations on shorp for latitude and; longitude, and the varia- tion, dip. a^nd intensity of the needle. On the 5th, I received, a message from the governor, that as it was ttfe King of Denmark's . birthday, the Esquimaux would assemble at his« house, and have a dance, and the pleasire of my company was solicited for the occasion; accordingly at six o'clock! repaired t6 the wooden palace of his Excellency, and there ^<^"H crammed into a smallish . chamber^ as many Esquimaux as could conveniently starid. I had prepared myself with .certain bottles ^ by which; punch could be quickly made; and several of the officers and crew joining the party, by their assistance, each of the Esquimaux ladies was first supphed with a glass foU-^of the beve- rage, and^ afterward the gentlemen, " when I . made them understand that, they were to give three cheers for the King of Denmark, which V was done with a vigour and goodhearteduess, that made the wooden walls echo againr ■ * ^ 7* !'. I ,V » . .^:^ m M m m^ ! M 106 A SUMMER SEARCH I had prepared another treat for- them, which 1 am quite sure was to many the inost agree- able, of the two! My coxswain ca^ae in to tell me when all was ready, and then I begged the , governor would tell the party tQ go outside, where I had somewhat to shew them.. When all were assembled, the booming of one of our guns, which by signal was fired from the vessel, not a little alarmed some of the most i timid, and their fear was not much allayed, when, from under their very noses, a shower of rockets flew into mid-air, with a whirl that startled some of the more ancient sages amongst them, though when no damage was found to accrue to any of the party^ the shouts of joy overpowered the noise of the rockets. The blue lights and white lights, which were burnt to enliven the performance, were objects of great curiosity, and I could see some enquir- ing faces, eagerly watching our movements, as the port-fires were placed to ignite therm. Dancing was afterwards cotaimenced, and feeling that it was my duty to lead off with the governor's wife, who was an Esquimaux, T • X % -r- % If P ./■ 1 '? ■ ^, " ^ ^ ";t-> » <•■■. ■^ :M ■ .» ■ ■ S V "■[/■ FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 107 begged the honojir of hjer hand, for a dance, in the best Esquimaux of w^iich I was master, and to the scraping of a disabled fiddle, bouhd round With twine and splints, I laHo^^^ied into the mys- teries of an Esquimaux quadrille, which^but for the gtrenuous exertions of my partner, to keep me right, I should certainly have s6t into utter confusion. » It was composed of a. chaine des dames and a reel, complex to a wonderfiil degree, and exhausting to a frightful extent^ and yet it appeared to be tlje determination of the whole party to continue at this one figure till tired nature sunk. ' . Unaccustomed to this kind of violent exercise, 1 was soon knocked-up, and tried, though un- successftUly, to make my escape ; but at last I had the gratification of observing an elderly lady opposite beginning to falter, and out of compliment to her I presume this dance was terminated. ' The Esquimaux seem to think it is impossible to be /too warm, so the doors and ^vindows were ' tightly closed, and certain lamps and tallow ' ' ■■ '^ ■ ■ ■ '^ ■ ■- - it M '108 A summkrXearch 1.1 ■tl- Hi! ' candles (with whicli,^had supplied his ExeeU lency,) soon bpatigjjt" the temperature up to / blood heat. • AftoT/i^sting from my labour, I detennined to tijrtheir waltz, which I found was not very ;ulilike ^ureT being pbrfoi-med somewhat in the ^ / same manner, and the fair ladies Avith whom I now alterhatejy figured instructing me in the mysteries of the measure. Some of my sailors having obtained permission to attend the ball, they were now solicited to give a specimen of . their skill, and accordingly a sailor's hornpipe and reel, with the usual heel and toe accom- paniment, i»et with great applause.. i I had had sufficient fun by nine o'clock, but IKe party did not break up till after twelve; before I^ went away, however, at my special request, some Esquimaux melodies Were sung by the party, and afterwards a Danisli national hymn by the governor. When the officers and menjvere returning in their boat to the ship " they were serenaded by the ladies of the party, ^ who joining hand-in-hand walk«id along the rocks towards the ship, singing a plalhtivu air. %■ .M I V. . M / FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, 109 ^■*, /■ which might well haVe been taken for their evening hymn. -And such it may have been, for these poor people, demi-civilized and in- sti-ucted as they have been by the DanBs, are full of fervour and zdat for their religion, the Lutheran, and show more real moral principle than any nation I ever visited. ^ The strictest honesty and the most unflinch- ing observance of tryith appeared l^o be such marked features of *their character, that among our Greenland sailors it is quite proverbial; so that, ^hile on the west coast of Davis Strait they are notorious thieves, on the eastern shore, where the blessings of religion and civilization ai^^omewhat known, nothing can exceed their hone&ty. ^/^ ' ' It was the morning of the 7th ere/we were quite ready for «ea ;; land , having /sent the Governor some fuel, candles, and sugar, of which he sjood sorely in need, we were abdut to trip anchor, vhen his Excellency came on board to ^express his gratitude, for my gift, and bringing a reindeer skin, begged my acceptance of it. frfl -t !! t.. < ', .'. !>■'->■. 'Sr 110 U r) 'w^^- 5 A SUMMEft SEARCH I was anxious not to loso the breeze whieb bid fair for getting out of this little archipelago; ; so, getting his Excellency away as soon as J /pohtely could, we slipped the hawser laid out i astern, and away we went before a stiff bredar; fi^om the south-eastward, i^hi^h however soon freshened to a very troublesoiiie^-gale from the southwafd, and before nig^tfallWe were again hove to, buffeting with the eleriients, though under more comfortable circumstaiices than the last gale we experienced. Towards the eyening of the 9th the gale broke, and we began to make over in earnest to the west shore, but this brief change only ushered in a still more furious gale from the north-eastward, before which we scudded with ^ a high following sea until we were unable to heave to.* ~ , Seldom had I witnessed Sything equal to wh4t we now experienced : the roaring breakers sweeping fiiriously before the gale were barely outstripped by our trembling bark, as she \ seemed to fly in terror before them ; and occa- sionally, a lofty one, whose velocitj was some- - •^ -,?. r* ■ Iftte^ " FOR SIR JOHN FhANKLIN. Ill thing greater than our own— ierhaps because its swelling sides had for k iinJe almost becalmed our sails— came tumbling An board, washing the poor helmsman almOst overboard^ and drenching the deck fore ^d aft with a sea that swashed about, owing to the want of proper scuppers, until it had leeked through the deck into the cabin below, much to my continual discomfort, and to the no small detriment of my books itid charts. I had 7seen very heavy weather off Gape Horn, where the South At- l^tic and Pacific Oceans blend their waters in- mountainous waves, but in no degree did they ^qual the seas we experienced in Davis Strait on our southward passage. ^^ ■^£■ Towards the morning of the 13th the gale somewhat moderated, but the* heavy sea stil| remained to anno^ us, by surging the vessel to and fro, the yard arins often under water ; and now, by my dead reckomng." I found the ship had run piEist her port, or rather,' the Jnlet I had wished to make, and in which I had had some intention of wintering. '.« ;.;^- v^...% * ^ I > I': ■■»: . I-- 112 ,\ ■s A SUMMER SEARCH A k-. X At IIogp,i;tli^ Sound, or in the head of Cumberland Inlet, I had hoped to complite my sea^h along tKte west coast (rf Biiffin Bay by sledges, and tiien, during; the^; follomng spring, to have completed the survey of Davis Strait, from Cape Walsin^ham- south, as far as Newfoundland.' However, it was ordered otherwise : . • • " L'homme pro;^ mais Dieu dispose." » , ^. • By our reckoning on the 12th, we thought >e should have sighted the land, but we had seen no appearance of it, and now it was impos- sible to get in with the shore, and most dangerous to maJce an attefaipt while the sfea w^, ^so boisterous. Now, too, the ice-mastera Qpne to ^ asid urging the lameness pf the season and the dangerous nature of the cdast, entreated me to relinquish aU further attempts to get in with the shore at such a period of the season, when few hours of dayhght afforded : an opportunity for doing anything, and no chart existed of the coast we were to explore, A. ,\- A- <; , ., A FOft SIR JOHN PRANKIifJt. 113 though it was certainly known- to be guarded by numberless rocks and shoals. • YcouU not reject the sa;ge counsel of my ^ ancient mariners, and therefore, without at once making up my mind on the .subject, I told them I would think of it, mentally determining that if the weather did not inoderate in forty boijrs, or some change take place which I (i,uld reasonably hope would give us a chance of . reaching a pla<5o of safety, I would bear up for England. No^change did take place fiirnishingme with valid excuse for prolonging my stay in these seas, so we put the Itelm up ^r our native shores, and I saw many faces brightening a« the order was given, some expressing aloud their satisfaaion that the. perilous voyage we had "^ made had ended so &r successfuUy, and that .nothing but the oidinaiy dangers of a sailor's life was now before them I, too, felt thai^ful, most thankful, to the Ahnighty for so ordering our goings that we ' were able to return this winter without one f r -^-- .-MiSm w 114 A SUMMER SEARCH drawback, one accident or mishap, to mar the satisfaction of a voyage which has been called, by the most distmguished authority that can be quoted (Sir Francis Beaufort), on^ of the most remarka|)le voyages upon record. " ' V 1 ■ , i 1 -'".1 j :;-' I 1 — ' « « . . - ._ "- --.:-■ ^- -f - ■ 'f ' ■.. » Ka( rem i 1 * :l 4 • i 1 vC : . ■,-_". ^ FOR. SIR JOHN KRASKFJS. 115, I v-' \ • " M- » \ CHAPTER VI. We experienced a continuance of heavy weather while recrossing the Atlantic; but as nothing ofany importance took place differing from the usual occurrences of a sea voyage, I will not dwell upon this part of my journal, but pass on to oi^ arrival on our own stores, which we reached on the 4th of November, anchoring at Stromness the very day four months from our quitting Woolwich. We wer^ received with the greatest kindness, and I wai most hospitably entertained by the femUy of/ Dr. Hamilton, a connection of Dr. . Rae, the/ distinguished Arctic voyager. We ^ remained a few days at this anchorage, waiting 12 'i M -',t . J a ' T ■ I •♦■ r 1 1 .1 )>i I i mi . '^•. # t .^•» ' t 116 A StTMMEll SEARqH for a fair jdnd to caray us' through the Pentland \ Frith, and from thence we r6ached Peterhead ' on the 10th,*«fhere . we remained a few hcJurs - '. to discharge a part of ^he crew we had shipped - at. that place. It was on the 10th of July that we had sailed from tliere,' and the 10th of November found us ftteer^g into the little; bay"", : sAuth of the town, very muieh to the surprise of . £fc inhabitants, who would hardly credit bur statement when* told of what we had aocom- Ijplished in so short a time. ' A part of our crew being discharged, some ' letters landed, ana fresh provisions procured, • we lefb Peterhead in the afternoon foi^ Woolwich, but stress of weather obUging us to put into % 4' --1 1 1 ( ■ ' \ k k e "''■ ' t] \ fi . m tl _....es th Si po m -+.r »<*.-; ♦ .'.Hi , 1 s . i 1 'i^< 4 FOR SIR JOHN FRANlfLIN. ^ U7 ; t^eh imwufrom thai; dep6t, and ctmiipeucei •ptherwise to dismantle our little barque. , ,' -"AndnowUat our Arctic voyage is ended," ' let us c^Jmly review what ha« been done, what ' ihfbrmation has b^en acquired relative to tEe missing expedition, what adlMtioii ti^Jeo^phy obtained, and how has been ^solved; the longV'^ ■ vexed question of the head of B^n ElayVnc^ its opening in^o tike Pola^ B^ ? . ' |: ^ First, upon ^xataiping\the*,chari. wlii(^' h'a»"' '^ ^n carefu% cpmpHed' from aU t^e data I could'V ^^ collect in-my nytheii push,, it ,will be seen ^'th^-t the coast on -tl^e eastern shored was -care- ' #!» •■■1 *._''■ - . * .i f , > . - ; — -rr' v-^^vwii oj*wic». w«is^care- < » ^ '. flilly examined as &r ijortb a^ 78° 35; ftnd*that "^ \i, 4 f • when natiyes or t^ir habitations were dis- '' '. covered, the mp&t minute iKqiiiries and the most ,rigi<^. search- were, prosecuted amongst! .them. !■.(■- '' ,:' , '; , ., \,' /. ^ '- '/W . ' '• " • ■■'.,■ ' ■• t ■ ' ' ' Whale Sound was not exatnlned to its farthest f * extremity, ibr this. reai|ii— that als nothing but /. . the most improbable accident could have brought ' i Sir John FrankUn to these shores, I could We ' no excuse but geographic rese^h for extending ^ . 4» "ay cruise amongst tl)e islands discovered .there • +.: T ^ i: ':' / ; i ■ <*•■ I • ■fRI ;\!i V<: \\ T 5i i L $^ 118 A SUMMER SEARCH and as I visited the habitations of the natives, and dosely examined their dresses, &c., without ' discovering any thiifg that could leacLto a sup- position that Franklin had ever ^sited that region, it behoved me to leave this most interest- ing field for future discovery and to push boldly^ on for a higher latitude. Smith Sound was reached, and here nothing betrayed the slightest tokefn of ijie previous presence of a human being, though there ^^e several prominent and easily accessible points which would have afforded him good opportu- nities for leaving such marks. Or erecting such cairns, that must at once have arrested the eye of a passing mariner. *iHi(wought in vain for any thing of the kind ; and though continuf^lly within half a mile of the coast nothing fpreign ^ to those iron-bound shores could be discovered, though an object the size of a man's hat could hardly have escaped our notice— so perfectly clear and continually bright was the weather. The gale which forced us to relinquish all far- ther attempt to get to the northward prevented :^y other search peing made, but such as we ^' 1 # a ■7. _ I ' 01 ol tc sc n( at th Sc • \ r T^ Mr; ' '^ FOR SIR. JOHN FRANKLIN. 119 could prosecute with Wglasifs from the deck of tke vessel; and this was donfe by ea«h person who possessed a spy-glL; with an anxiety that ;-. oft6n kept one or two Lf us f|r the whole night t from going t^l "bed. ! Jones Sound was nel ^edLmed but with no ^ better success, no mark oPcaJi cquld beobserved, \aiid bad weather, the laUJis of the' season, and other; difficulties made it [necessary to retreat fromitW gulf before the in rea,! earnest. In sho to believe that FmnkUn of the two so^nds.last J oienlioned,- as hewould otherwise have certa -/ ■ ^ le nter had commenced [here is every reason ^ 'er. attempted eitlier feflj some indication of his presence; and 4b' latter w^ observed to" be of so different a jcllaracter lo those open sounds we had previouiJe^^^ that I could * not but Consider it as iofiiing more than a gulf »;t having no outlet, excek Jossibly by s^me small frozen strait into the Mlar Sea. ^-V *rhat \jones Sound^s an impenetrable gulf^ at least in a westedy direction, I argue from the facts, that while Whale Sound, Smith^ Sound, and Lanc^ter Sound, were found free, '■* ..' :■'''%■ '* .■' ■'' ■I \ ' ■■\ C \ ; ..t; f\. f! 120 '*,*■ k A SUHH£R SBAKCU and navigable ^|^rently to kny distance, with strong currents setting into them, Jones Sound was observe^ to be choked with ice, certainly drifting, but of a' thiqkness which proved it to be of many years' formation, and thus uri^ questionably seldom driven out of that -lo- cality. ^ r Icebergs were seen in it as far as 84° W., of vast dimensions, some 150 feet in height, and this may be considered an essential feature differing widely from the other sounds. r The set of the current observed in Jones Sound was to the eastward, bul; slight, and we had no opjiortunity of determining whether it was permanent, or, |s in other parts of Baffin Bay, wholly dependent on the prevailing winds. That the western extremity of Jones Sound is closed, I have little doubt, but that it may open a way to the northward by a frozen strait, is very possible, for this reason, that the. current which was detected in ca,rrying out to the east- ward, ice, of niany yelrs' formation, must have had some corresponding inlet ; and thus the iouhd, though' not altogether a cd de-sac has ^-tcr- , ♦ / ■m- T '#*,- . , p. f .1 \(\ • / "i.* k FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 121 .■■^^i- t — such a smiU aiid contracted^inlet towards the Polar ^ea, as not to allow of the ice escaping, or indeed to give any impalse >> it, excepting' on such, opcasionis as this very fevourable sum- : mer. y this I may ° add, ;that Dr. Suther- land was the perso n^ whoin^ he exp?ditiofbf the' foregoing ^reaf; colored % north-east shore of Wellington Channel a^i^nnyl^trait, and he feels perfectly assuredUh^ range of moun- tains intervenes between Baring Bay a^d the V western head of Jones' Sqund. Lancaster Sound was visited by us from two motives— one in order to give ' Sir Edward > Belcher the^ advantage of our discoveries, and ; the other that should I be ^^' to return this season to England,*'! could iTthat case convey : the latest mtelhgence of the government expeOi- tion to those most interested about it; theSe ' objects appeared to me to be forcible enough t^ induce me to determine upon going there, 'and " ' thus risking the sacrifice of aU our own ulterior intentions to them. ^Z * The west coast of Baffin "Bay, as far south ^ ■ fhe river Gyde, was examined as well as our {; it >f\ t \ '^i '• ' -^'' ■■ \ \i\ V. •J> ■' • / t'l' \ -.-'..v « ■ " St li h l!'^f It- .if It; If'- » 122 A 8UMAIEK SEAHCH feeble means would acUnit, but with no better _ results than the others. ^ • Our object here was to search for the crews of the berg-borqe ships, which some supposed .might have been wrecked on theSe shores/or at least that thtsy ^might have escaped to land as the vessels were driven gputh on their icy craxiles. To give notice of ottr position, rockets and guns were fired at %ht, and a boat put in to the shore twice to seek for traces, but none could be found, and with/this our search for the missing expedition ended. Secondly.— With regard to the geogra{)hic information obtained, I may again quote the word? of the hydrographer of the Admiralty, ^ who in a letter to me says, " Remembei- from the Gary Islands to the northward all is new, as well as the interior of Jones Sound." ' - A reference to the .^hart will show how much has been added from Cape Parry northwards, and besides this addition of 600 miles of «ontin- ous new coast line, several alterations and addi- tions were made to the previously imperfect out- line with which we were supplied. •Si- '-r u ■,a FOR SIR JOHN FRANKUN. 123 The meteorological journal, which has been most careftiUy and strictly kept, and registered every three hours by my indefatigable friend. Dr.- _. Sutherland, wiD, I think, prpve'of some import- ance by its comparison with that of Sir Edward ^Belcher's expedition in WeUington Channel. And the,ifrurts of the Doctor's dre^e, in the several new species of marine animals; and the sea-weeds, as well as plants, brought to England by him, will be found not uninteresting to those, : who, like himself; ak devoted to the natural history of tiiese northern climes. ' ;^ § To those persons who understand thci vahie of^ such research, the examination of the sea-water wiU suggest ideas with reference to the whde ' fisheries that may be worth more than the pas- . . ^ sing consideration— especiaUy now that our fish- ;,. eries are so rapidly declming. « In Whale Sound, the two weU known ^on^ of molusca, called the clio borealis and sagitta, ^, were observed to be larger and in greater quantity • than elsewhere ; and I cannot but feel persuaded J^^ a season spent in waters where the, whale's *!• ]> J k W ^^ -t^ '»:«*«■ iM J: s 124 , A^-^SUMMER SEARCH food is found in such abundaiice must prove a fruitfbl field for -the exertions' of the industrious whaler. JS^eveual whales were seen by our people ; while there, an(i the natives ^ewed us soine of the vertebra? evidently obtaineteom the carcase, of a dead fish which had ^een thrown ashore, a^ they had no kyacks o?; means of capturing the live animal. , . ; ? • Whale Sound, opening as it did upon our view, with several large islands and fine inlets, affords a scope for foture searchhyhich I think from the singular similarity that it ppssesselto its. opposite neighbour Lancaster Sound, as therei we neither saw ice nor bergs, would well repay the adventurous whaler, or the discdveiy ship, by its examination. • rf ■ ' . /■■'■■. . . . • On the whole, I think it not improbable that the land intervening between Lancaster and Smith Sounds, as well as that on the east^ore- between Whale Sound and the latter, will one day prove to be a group of islands, though now ranging themselves apparently into continuous coast-hnes, which form the limits of ]Eiffin Bav ■■^/ ■^, J.' -t. ' 4i 'WC'^ '■ ^ FOR SIR joHW PRANKLIM. 125 These island] are only ti of the grej with prudence ^e^ every reason to believe, I tnay use such a term, lin; and if "penetrated a fair sed^on, wjll perhaps effect a readier communication with the missing Expedition, and ^rUer solv^ the north-west pas^ sage problem, than pureuing our comrades in their own foo^t»ps, on the route which, we thfnk, they must lilive followed. For myself, I wish no better fortune than to be allowed next^ear to Mow u^ the discoveries we have^ made, and should I be lucky enougji to reach these newshores, tt^'^|^teginning, in- stead of at the close 6f the na^^le seaso^,! have httle or no doubt that the pole of the earth might easily be attained and paa^d; or a direct course shap^ towards Beh^ng Strait;' dnd even, if aU could not be effected in a single season, steani power would lead us, to a point fiom which a voyage in the foUowingyeai^ would be coBapleted,-.from whence an interesting por-' „tion of the polar features would be developed,— 1 and t^e problem solved upon which so. many \: .fr- •'H- <^y ;'■»' ■L\. ■ , fi It 1 1 \S\K / ■M-^ 126 ■*•■ A SUMMBItvSEARCH ^ valuable lives have been periUed and so many thousands of pounds expended. In a geographic point of view this would in- deed be interesting, but Baffin Bay, caiinot, 1 think, ever be made a useful Commercial route, „ . while, on the other hand, I be^lieve that a voyage might be readily undertaken and completed through the SpitAergen Sea. But prejudice seems to have exduded, of late years, aU idea * of an attempt by this route, and yet I cannot but feel convinced, that the dying words of that great voyager Baffin deserve more considera- tion. He parted with his life on the scene of his last discweries, declaring that he firmly believed ,had he kept a more riiiddle course between^itzbergen and Nova Zembla, that ho would have passed into clear water and through the great Pblyniia of the Ru^ians. % To those who may be inclined to ask, why did I not return to Smith Sound, after the gale had ceased which forced me to retire from it. on the 27th of August, a word of^xplanation is duft* ,1 ■V ■ .;,', .J»c V V.' * '. /!•> J/, ;^.- FOI^ ^ft JOHN FRANKUN. '^ 127 i. A week previous to the attainment of our most northern latitude I had been warned by Mr. Abemethy, who had spent many winters in the Arctic regions, that I had not mote than ^ five or six days longer to navigate, as it was not ^ only esseniial that winter quarters' should be found, but every engagement made for entering / some place of safety at an hour's notice. To prepare for this, the water had been pumped out of the tanks and everything made ready, ^ but no spot could be observed where even an " anchorage cjjuld be obtained, and it must be remembered, th^t much more than bare anchor- age ground js necessary for laying a ship up for the winter. | Thus it was that when the ^le assailed our lonely barque, prudence pointed out the necessity of retreating to thi southward, though I do think, that had fair winds favoured another atteUpt, I could havb resisted the temp- tation; but/the reader will recollect, that, in- " * stead of anV such tempting change, a thick fog and snow. With ligKt variable winds, drove us into the ice|, and gave such an unpleasant fore- - y ./"■ . 'X] 1 ■- I * r" ' ■ . ■ , ' », ■ I* / isSfc I :ii I r fi- ll I' I i?r .Mi nl I,, .» ■ ' » 128 ° SEARCH FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. ta^ of its iron grasp, that I believe the ener- / gies of all of us were a little damped, and tniit snug quarters, rather than more adventure, were wished for by aU, ^ *■ ■\ i.*f? Female Igsquimaux, Servant to the Goreraor at Fiskemaei. W 1 . « ,\^ ■'-. • f i - (».-. »f . ■'*■ . I . _ t V 0: Table anowiNG the Deviation op Standabd Compa88. 1852 Enoland. Oreonhitho, ~ SthvJiily. V NORTH. 2 45 N. byE. 3 57 N.N.E. 5 10 N.E. by N. 5 45 N.E. :6 20 N.E. by e.6 5 E.N.E. |5 56 E. byN. 5 5 ^ • Dirjec. tion. ' EAST. ,4 20 E.by8. 2 40 E.S.E. S.E.byE. s.E. jl 20 s.E.by3. |1 45 S.S.E. 2 25 1 40 20 8. byE. |2,42! w. w. w. w. SOUTH. j3 10 B. by w, 3 30 8.8.W. |3 50 s.w:l)y.8. 4. 1,| w' S.W. ,4 34 w. 3.W. byw.j4 66 w. W.8.W. 5 30 w. by 8. ,5 30 E. E. "e. E. E. E. Greenland. ~th Octobor. o t 4 20 20 4 20 7 20 I'D 20 11 50 13 20 ll^t) E. E. E. E. W. W. W 14 40 14 13 2o[ 11 5| 8 50 6 30 4 10 2 15 Direc- tion. W. £. E. E. E. E. E. E. Enoi.ani). Groeiililthe, satli Nov, Direc- tion. 3 M 1 22 55' 1 55 2 55 4 25 5 55 6 37 w. w. E. E. E. E. .E. 4 ■.. :. E. Reuarks, JEC. ' I' £. ± E. K 20 2 4(J 5 40 E. W. W. wf 7 20 5 45 4>10 3 10 a*|o, 2. 15! 2*10 1»42 £. E, E. B, E. E. E. E. 115 20 35 '47 1 65i 2 60 3 42 F It wa*-fe«nd-; after leaving Grccnbjthe, that an anvil and two mol-dols had been stowed under the coal within 10 feet of standard compass on the port side ; these were of necessity removed, but no other alter- ation was made before the ship was swunR at the Ilunde .Is- lands, in Greenland. w • It is most pr^able that the - last deviations do not exhibit the maximum amount of devi- ation, ifk the most northern part of the voyafco; but pro- bably a table n ight be deduced showing its ratio to the in- crease of latitude. ' At Hnn^o Islands the stan- dard compass was taken on shore to observe the bearing of the island in line with the ship. i-U • i- ,. .-* « ,^ f t. V -'■■' lj i' .■-*' :,' -* ■% 'I -. >'r '''t' - ■■•<■*':. ^i... .■• An* • .%.■.■; !: .-•sr -*!*''. •«» •t / "m • , ■ ^"- ;:> - •- ' ■ -■■ ■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■^.-'% -,. ■«; .- , .■.'■■ .. ■> '- /^■: • V'. ■;•■■>■■'■ V n. •;:■■'■•: ^ ■. ■' '• ■ ^v .,. •.;-■■■:.■ • .: - '.-' ■■■' '■ '-••■ ' . i Hi ^ as j M III ^ 1*1 '1 n ^ ' 1 1 ' ' ■ ■ • riB i^H ^^,1 :J-T' ?^J i '"J C"^ ■k ' ^4 'i^rH '^-^^^^ NOTES • ON ^ o PLOWEIUNG PLANTS AND ALG^, COLLECTED DURING THE VOYAGE OP v. ^4. 0^;. . THE "ISABEL." By G. DICKIE, M.D., PROPESSOB OF KATBRAL HISTOBY, QUEEN'S . COLLEGE, BEIP^T, m %i \ 1 5 '■•■l ^ m ■m::iftk ^-■4- »• >, IpK «» ■» ^a^ • V \ / ml X € ^ I ^^:- -\r:. E R V ^- ' „ R ) « if k- '^. P« |«,V -- .Co !> c. D. 1 ' c - ' - ■ * \ ^ t • .'■ftv • V *.L w . - .•/ ■ S' r •» * » ^ ir-- « 1 .\'^^ ';'' "^ / .%. - OS ' y-- r *M- r ; »ES ON FLOWERING -PLANTS AND ALG^ « « J ''■ 't^'i-vphjo null presented to myself l,y Dk Sutherland ' '■ s- ^ \ DICQTYLEDONES. ».*' a ^ I- f. i " " Jianunculacea;. '' Ranunculus hyerboreus,.i). C. Disco Islan.f - » , «■ nivalis, W«M. Wolstenholme Sound '*' R. frigidus, ;ra/rf. Wolstehholme Sound. ■ \ ',* - - '". ': ■ . . .: A" ■ - . » "> , '. - •„ ^ •" i, ,■" -Papaveracew. PaiHivel|niaicauIe*Z. WolstenholiMe Sound .GWU;ari^klongiiblia/i):a' Disco Mand and Wolsteu- » . holme Sound. ' Jandica,Z. Fiskema^s ' " ■ pina, L. Whale Sound arid Wplstenholme Sound L. Whale Sound. ' . * a «'^*^^'«. Whale Sound and Wolste«holn.e ■.,,... ■ ■ ■ J 4^ - I „ v'% ;r; ■f .\ 'ir^' it. •^ ;-.iv; •i)^- -^•, ^ '--'■%" ^■^ Mi IBI- Stellararffieaia^. Fiakeni4e& » S. I^gipes, Ooldie. Fi^maes, Wfiale Sound/iftld Wol- • stenhoftue Soujftd. Cera«tiiMji alpinfam, 1/ Disco Island and Whale Soimdjj C. latifolium, l\ IMsco Island, 4 ■» ,^ . <^ 1 1 i'jr i ^ Lychnis alpina, ^. Fi^kemaes, L. apefcala, Z. VKobtenholme Sound and Whale. Sound. I ^f )f Sogacea. ' Potentillatridentata,'ul»<. Fiakemaes. <* V P. njvea, L. 'Whale Sound. V jPryaA integrifolia, X. Fiskemaes. - * J^henfilla alpina, Z. Fiskemaes. %: - Oncnjfrtfcea.x # #* tmaes. Epikbium flkB§ustif(3k|| Jt. Fi^, Saxifrajgft nivalis,Z. ,* K^m^:?/. • ; ^- *, '" -* S. ciespitosa, 1« ! ^i«fcemaflj|>, » • ' ^"^ JEfcT '' •8.^6on*lfc: F^Tu^^ '^ .:'" \ ' J%' •• ill '\' •";• S. cemua, Z. ^Mfcnholmb Souni • ' y^' «"i« »'■' ^' *"<«»pi l^eraciun!! miiroruBi, Z. Fiskprnaes. ~^ ^naphaiium sylvaticum, Z. FiHkernacs, '"' Leoutodoa Tarakacum, Z . Whale Sound. , / --V 3-Ba 'Eu Pe( ^Ql Oxj / ^ v. fe..; -n-, ^ — ^T^ '■K ,pt t ':^: i^hymus Seri)yUum, L. Fiskemaes. X ^ % W. Polygonacew. -^Qlygonmn vi^pani^-i;- Fiskemaes, Disco Islanarand- Wolstcnholine Sound. ' < ■ - ■ Oxyria renifomiis, L. ' Fiskemaes. j^OBijiigia islands, is D^MLlaland. ' 'M •^ • /y « 0* .^ f ' 1 ' ■ 1 1 1 ' I ^ \i 'Ci t I -T' i 'I I Hi i\\ ii\t t*\ / :S& / H I' !■• t i i ■ ■ -IT- ■t : ; \ -»'■- ■ ! - 138 APPENDIX. Umpetraceee. "" Empetrum nigrunf L. Fiskernaes. -ll. Hetulaceie. Betula nana, lI. Fiskernaes. Sali caeew. \^. Salix arctica, Fall. Ffakemaes and Whale Sound. S. glauca, £. Fiskemaes. S. myrtilloides, L. ~ Fiskemaes. , S. herbacea, Z. Disco Island, y ' .V- '. -^f "•' -■■ ■ ; ,v MONOCOTYLEDONES. ' "K' Orchidavra! ' '■ '• Habeuaria albida, j&V. Fiskemaes.*^ ■' ^' ;' ■,■■■■,.."' ' '■ .."■'■*•■.', ■. * ■■ ■ ^ tTuiivacete. . » Juncus trifidua, /,. Fiskemaes.' ^ . :. Luziila spicata, Z>. e. Fiskemaes. L. camijestris, I. {var. congesta) Fiskemaes «nd Wolsten- holme Sound. '// Eriophorum polystachyum, L. Fibkeniaes.* E. capitatum, Sclirad. Disco Island. Carex csespitosa, Good. Fiskemaes. _C. exilis, Beweii. Msco Island. C. scirpoidea, Mich. Disco Island. C. rigida, L. Disco Island. \m;. -%■ '■Sky; NOTJCS ON FLOWERIiVc PLANTS^ ■ ' I- ■ Ommiiieu: 13.9 Deyeuxia Htiigoaa, AM. Fiskommss. M ■ ' ■^Jrisetum subspicatum, jB' »/., ^ife V - 140 APPENDIX. in^-^ **••»?• ■ *■*» f- AhOM 4(. MELANOSPERlVIEi^.* Mtcacea. : ^-: -«*... L A .t ik' Fucua vbsiculosus, Z. Hunde Islands, 40 to 50 fathoms;'.,, WhaleMslands ; floating near Beechy Island ;" o«i^ - -, the beach, Whale Sound. The specimens neaily «{Q1 destitute of vesicles. <•' , ~* F, nodosus, L. :^skema^s and , Whale Islandsj and floating in 73°fi;o'N., \^ . V • , ,. ■ „ Sporochnacea. Desmarestia Iviridis, Lam. Hunde Islands,- 50 to WO ' ^^ fathfcms. ■ i ■ «" ; • • .'. * D. a^uleatayfcrtvH. Fistemaes ;' Hunde Islands; §0- to 100 fathoms; Whale Islands ; floating- in. lat. 73° 20* N. Eaminariacea: ^'i Al^ esculenta, Crej;. On the beach, Whale JSound. It ' attains a large size even in such high latitudes. ■_^ some ^f the fronds being up.warcb* of six inches BroAd. - ^, ^ Laminma Ea«3la, A^^^ Hunde Islaucis,. iii -W «5jp fattows L. sac^harinaj, Zny«. Hunde Islands, in r : .. i^thom^.- il. |«llf 4 k Ect *1^« •'. *»•« •4- ■reilBBVMP" ' i.V.- *-^'.- .,.•; ■z-:i '. J. At' ;V„ r . .. i ■'-''" '^4 nv- NOTES ON ALG^. 141 L. longi(*arig, i).7« P^^ Melville B^y; Wh^e Soiml; (.ape Saumarez ; specimens found floating off ©ark llead, coast of West Greenland, lat 72° IS* N iiust have been Upwards of lo'feet in length, their . roots abounding in animal forms peculiar to deep ^'ater. ; * * L. (ligitatai Zaw. Whale Sound. * "^ • '' Agarum Tjtoieri, Post and Mupr. Hunde Islands, in 10 to ^^. fathoms / Whale Island, in 40 to 50 fathoms • MplvilleBay. . , ■ ' - ' ' ' . * Dtctyotyacea;: -^ • .< pyota J'as ciola, Lam. Hunde Islands, in 40 to 50 fathoms* . , / W]ialel8li«ids,20ut« 40 fathoms. • ' -, ' ^. ^'^°«^PJi«.^ faenieul^eus, (Srev. Hunde* islands, in 50 to ^rt' 70 fathoms; and floating in^jiat. 73° 20' N .AsperdcoccuiiTum^, ZT^o*. Fiakemaea ' Chbrdairuiqea.'' . * - Chordaria flj^liformis, Ag. Fiskemaes;" tlunde IslanHs, 40 to„ 100, fathoms; Whale Islands; MelviUe.:^y.' Elachista'fucicola, J'W^>. PiskemasB^Vhale Islands. . E. flaccida,- Aresch (?) On Dfesmwjestia aculeata, Whale ^ \,' IsUuds. ' Mj^oncma itrangulafis, Grev. A mi^te pliant, probably ■' .. idepical wi^ this aiiecies, was found infesting CaUithawnion Rothii, at Jow-water mark Hunde , ■ fer-....^l8h,nd8. V.'^^-' ,:,v-.,^^-- ^.> ~y ■•.■---.^: ,- / \- Ectocarp'acfia, •i^f 4 ChaBto|JterisJ plumosa, Kutz. Hund^ Islands, 26 to^ 30- "k fathoms; on" ]Khe .beach, Wht^ Sound. Ectocarpus littoralfef Lj/ngbj : Fiskei^aes-f « iTundevfTslanda, ; , ■ 60 to foO fattomsH and Wting j^ lat. 73'' 20' N. «i % J'! ark Head. > D. angustissiraa, GVJ^^ Whale Islands. ' ' ' ' : / ".Calliblephajfts ciliata, Kutz. On the beach, Whale Islands, ■'' ^ ■'• '■:'.'■ ■ • "''■:■ . ■ ' Peys!«nitWia Dubyi, Croiiali. Cape Adair, in 12 to 15 , / . , fathoin.H, on .stones. . i. " f \r-f # "..■• Jihhdjjtttniiat'p(P. ^. Euthora cristata, /. Jy. Hunde Islands, 90 to 100 fathomti. ' r^ Cli C. rt.» C. . ' c. Co Ci I El tr < I -Si— t- .' )t' ;>»» '. It: * / • * '*(V ' .J I. i r^-^-*- - - ^- ' ■ ■^*^-» Tf-- - ^- r-^fi? -,-■' fc- ■ — ^ -■ ■' 'i -, -•'■„■-# - ■"- ■' ,*■* -f— E ' -.■••• - ■', ,.;';,. , ,~ ' - ■ <■ ,■.■,'■• V ::■.,. , , ' f '. '.^ ( ^' ^ «■ les. ms. of ads nd. 15 10, b ea; 18 XOTKS -ON ALGvE. (^rifptonctqUu-fii 14a .-i^. * • * xU) ■ , ' CaHophyllis laciniata, /u,/.. Whale Is&nds, floating md . . cast dn the beach. ' • Halosaccipn ramentaceum, J: 4y. Whale Island;, ca^t up! '" ■ .■ ■ ■ . . i(^ramtneea: " * ^ PtilotM .sermta; A'j.^^. A\rhale ftknds, 30 to « fathoms •" i^ia Whale Sount^ floating., / ' . • Callithamnion Rothii, iy,,^^: ; Hunde Islands, at low-water mark : Caiie Adair, on stones, dredged in 12 to 18 tathomk ', , ■ ' : -. ■• . ■• ' ' ■ ' "^i " ■ '♦' ■ ; " ■ ■ .1 .".'• •''• f.. 15 PJT LOROSPERMM.* ', , / . ', ( 'i>iif'rrriifr(f>. ' "% ," V . V , Cladophora luglefieldii, .y. .V. Low- water mark, tffekeniaes.-' • "i C. rupestris, /u/. Low-wator mark, FisJ^ej^Vs. - • 'v" / '4 V f>' ft rf'. .1. " ^.i •4¥ 'v* «» ...... / ■ '- \ / >' " ■'W A- ,■» '^ ^ -x * h D. •. ''.'V .. t' « t - X.' if ./' H ■* .. ■ • % ;» A » . ' . "• v> V / f '.'■.'■ ide ?ct at. '?■ *^., ■'"Vt,.. X- .y ^ "./T * -A-- ■V A. FE)^ EEJIAEESI ou Tira IIYSICAL GEOGRAE DAVlSSTBAIfS,AND lis EAST j(NDffKST SHORES. ' ' pi?; V *^ BY 4 PC. SUTHERLAISTD, SimoEDN TO TII^ EXPEDlTieN. ' HJ**il ^ - i i: ;*^ __od i ,^- ^ Tr", TTTT 1 . - > ' * ' J'" e» :4 * ^ *^ *> ^ f - « y*r' ■4^. • ^ K ^*f A- *!^ .*".. < % 'A v^. /-« 1 !..!J il I \ \ ^:^, .-.«!,,;■ % V !•( '\ .^'^ ' l*^V ' ll % 1-^ T, sti eaf sh( fro gei sea Jan mc mu( cha: sect of ^ inte: d^es 6f^tJ ■>^-*JTf * ,f^^, ' ■- *— •••^#w w*-^ ,4,:« . ""*■ ^\- 11 A FEW KKMAHK: . u Ije ni at ist id ^ . " ■ - '•HYSICAL (JEOG l{ A I'H V, KTC i i- \ ' X4f) nature, aad he probaWy look« forward with pro phehc v,«,o„ to the far fetant day in whid^ «° ~' part of this island, 'J'^,^^Z 1' ftttr : "'" .'"™ '"-«' <•-» under. the feot rf,,.e,. *to th4troubW,.atek ,t^^^ And t^ ditecfon aad^orco of the current's uf '■ the ocean the cfreul^tor^.y^terngf the „n "r^f m .ncreashj^ »'';d!niiniBhin^ ^ Wpora.;"re esearck If, then,:eaeh of these Jmturalnhenb-- '' rofT"" "^f"'^^ ^t^nV'on.^ surelfh;- part of the world m which alt of thom\v„rK together m the most perfect harm<^.y aoe. I, an especial manner. "■ , , ' jn.eJ3anish. settlors in West ^JeniWhrtvo pret 4lfl i I ' •141 51^ i I i I 4 8 i ■* ■ I V If- !■ <;: i'Vi ill I'll' ■■'■■? U)() I JlEI^rAIlKS ON TH*; ; -rf^ Cumberland" an^ Frobisher Straits, it is less perfectly ^nowii* from the , difficulty experienced in approaching it by the whaling and discovery ships — the only ships that ever attemptto reach it. Commencing with Cape Farewell, there is no difficulty in at qnce referririg the rocks to the crystalline fonnations from. the rugged *and peaked outline of the coast presented to the navigator as he advances towards it from the stward. , Here, as in most parts of the same ioast and many otlier parts of the icy regions, he coast is intersected bywords of great length, in which the tide is generally very rapid and the >^ater is of considerable depth; and it appears as if composed of a chain of islands, varying much in size and clustering together in front of the vast elacier continent of Greenland. Pro- ceeding nortjiward, at Disco Islajip^a, on the 70th parallel of Mitude, we find an 'appearance of coast altogether different. Viewing this island from a disfeince of ten miles to seaward, it pre- sents a siicc^ssion of steps, and appears to be made, up of a number of truncated cones, planted so closely together that the bases of all of them meet, some at the level^ of the sea, bounding' long and winding Valleyijjytnd others at every intermediate point, until) the highest point is ^fW^ -^:- 0. 1- .c c S( tl isi til se CO th \ ,M '* I PHYSICAL Reached at, probably aft ^p^^^npj^^, thousand feet. SuchaconMK once sug- gestree of volcanic origin. mThe; noi;«iem extrehnty of this inland hypogenous rocks occur, fromthesealevel t3 an elevation of, ^about one |undred feet. The settlement of GodhaV^n, or Leively, ,s on this.part 6f the islknd/ fro^" whicli, at a distance of only one or two miles V the. northward, the tufaceous fonnation can b^e discerned, overlying the harder and moreprinii- tive rocks In South-east Bay, ten to twenty miles southwa# of Disco, a nmnber of inlands ^^bserved inseyeral groups, which/ from thei. general appearance and from specimens collected ° ■on the spot, evidently partake ofthe cry^taUine - character of the south end^ this islaiid , i;rom the researches ofb^ Rink, a^TiHt^ prising Danish traveller, we learn that coal and ^ar^tone are abiftidantly met. with on the so^-easfe and north-east shores of Disco Inland the north side of ihe Waigat. sfi^, the south ' ^lore of Omenak's Fiorde, Hare Island, and an island m North-east Bay, and in the coast on^ the 72nd parallel, a' few miles southwar(||^^e settlement of Proven. Of the purity ^f this' coal,^and«f its value as fuel, we may judge from ■ the following analysis, ^Wnch was performed by ^'"'^'^'M^ry^ Ki^ College, Abenleer; V f » i! » ! '. in '. * 1 i ■^ ■-.'■L 1 - • ■ - ', .> j * ■i - V ' ■ * ■ . i-r '/ '■" . "r^ - - ■ i ' ■ . - ' ... ■ ■ '■) .' '. .'.;'.' •. ■ . ■"» '■'.■•■■■■'■■ 4$ ■ ■ ■ %. ; V,- ■ *'<• 'i ,;• ■.'■ £ % u IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3J // ^/ ,.« Coke, consisting of di&h . 984 , Fixed carbon . ... . 39-56 «» m 49-4 100- As X never luid an opportunity of visiting the cojil-bearing localities, the necessary detail with respect to direction, extent, and thickness of beds, cannot be entered into at present. At Cape Cranstoune. situate on the north side of North-east Bay, the trap formation peculiar to Disco Island occurs, and extends northward apparently in one unbroken vein as far as Proven, in lat. 72° 20', or there- about. Here we find the volcanic rocks inter- rupted, and northward, to Capo York, lat. 76°, with one or two slight excQptions in lat. 73° 20' and 74°, numerous islands; and every *i? part of the coast that protrudes from beneath the glacier, are composed of gneiss and granite. At Cape York, and on to Cape AthoU, thirty to forty mjj^'farther north, although differing 40V piivsicAL geography; etc. 153 m outline by the glacial accuiiiiilation from Disco Island, and other well known parts, of the coast^to tho southward, the rocks can be referred with ..unquestionable certainty to the same yolcftiiic origin. Northward of the last men- tiobed CApe, in the entrance of Wolstenliolme* Sound, w^ find a flat island, (called Saunders Island, out of compliment to the commander of H.M.S. " North Stor," which ship wintered .near, it in 1849-50,) which, from its distinctly stratified appearance, suggests the commence- ment of a different series of rocks, or at least u slight interruption to those of igneous chamcter Eastward of Cape Atholl, on the south shore of the sound, the strata are seen cropping out, with d dip to the south-west. This dip is at varianc^** with what we Observe in Saunders Island, wh<^^ the strata are perfectly horizontal. At Onieiiak - the native Settlement, in the sound, and^ the reported scene of the destruction by fire of Franklin's ships and of the murder of their crews, a calcareous sandstone, with a dip of about 15° to west-southwest, occurs interstratified with greenstone ; and immediately to the west- ward of the settlement. Mount Dundas, a tabu- lated hill of very striking appearance, is probably composed of materials of the Kime igneous origin as the latter. The, unconformable condition of I ., :'»'■ ■ ■m: ■:4 'iy ~:mmv., ■ ■■: '■■ 154 REMAUK8 UN TIIK |«iS| the Kccondary or deposition strata and their anso- tiation in sucli intimate relation with volcanic rocks, prepares us for what "wo observe as we ■ advance northward. At the top of Wolsten- holme Sound, in the sanie^luif, the stratii, ' dipping about south-we8<^, vary from 10° to 25° or 30°. In. Granville Bay, about twenty miles farther north, they vary considerably, occurring Kometimes nearly perfectly horizontal, and '^ again- with an angle of 45° in several directions. In the entrance of this bay several small islands / occur, which, ffotn their rough and dark appear- ance, togetlier ^ith the depth of^Jhe water around, as indicated by the size of^JjHjfeebcrgs seen close, to them, \vc may sjifely^ jSRSown as volcanic. Towards Cape Parry, arid but a few miles southward of it, in Booth Sound, a re- markable b6ll shaped rockl* (Fitzclarence Rock,) of a dark colour, and apparently exceedingly hard, rises in an isolated form to a height of probably five or six hundred feet out of a- com- paratively level plain, the seaward continuation of one or more of the numerous taluses in the neighbourhood. To this, even in the entire absence of specimens, may be safely assigned the igneous character of the small islands already noticed. « From Cape I'arr) eastward to Bardjn^Bay, ] ijrtt i>ir yfr^w^f •m^/r^i^K^^vti nl^ d' HHVSICAL OEOGHAPIIY, KTC. l.W s 111 tl.o south shore of Wh«lo Sound, the Htmta iiidiiie a little to the westward, and they are in many places scuuewhat curved. Still further to the eastward they are partly conformable with a dip of about 30° to south-west, and they are frequently intersected by irregular dikis of igneous rocks, which are of a very dark colour when viewed from a distance of five or six miles One of these dikes rises in the form of ^ angry looking . peak above the outline of the otlSr strata, and in thjg entrance of ,Bardin''*Bay, the ship drawing ton to twelve feet of water, struck ^upon a rock,^jvhich, from the depth of the water (fifty to sixty fafclioms) within a couple of hun- dred yards, I consider to' be a second protrusion of the same rocks above the contour of the ileposition strata at tlie bottom. At a point on the east side of Bardin Ray we recogni^sed the same calcareous sandstone observed at Omenak, sixty miles to the soutliward, occurring in unconfonnablb and somewhat curved strata, inclining west-south-west, at an angle of 15V A specimen picked up from the brow of the hill above this pofht, at no great distance from one of the trap dikes, appears to be a sort of poii)hy- ritio greqnstone. In other parts oi Whale Sound, as we can iU . ■•' :r«^-,^ r^-frc- :--,_%.- ^ 15G KKMAUK8 judge from tho appeararKro of portions of NorthumbtTland, Herbert, and Milne Islands, the deposition strata are perfectly horizontal. And at Cape Sauniarez in the same cojvst, but thirty miles north of this sound, the sjune strata can be traced from one cliff to another, in con- formable and horizontal lines over many miles.. At Cape Alexander, the eastern boundary of the entrance of Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, in latitude 78° 15', we again find the strata a little curved ; but only a few miles farther north they are so regular in parallelism and succession, as to vie with a distant view of the Crystal Palace, with thepameof which Captain Inglefield hni' honoured one of the bli^ffs, and thus perpetuated ' in the icy i^rth the Recollection of that memo- rabje although only temporary edifice. In tlie absence of specimens, for we had no opportunity of landing, hnd of highly chamcteristic outlines, the nature of the remainuig part of the coast northward of the Exjiibition Cliffs, y^^iaijaiil island close to Cape' Alexander, n\m be im to be "determined by future explorersi^ the inland however seems to be composed of a very roifgh- grained light-coloured sandstone, probably simi- lar to that found at Bardin Bay, Whale Sound. The west shore of Smith's Sou nd, from Victoria ^. -X IMIYSICAI. GKOORAI'MY. ETC. i."): - ( ' Head, beyontt the 7J)th degrco of, latitude to - Cape Isabella, and the coast leading northward to Jon(^s* Sound, ih^/o inappro/ichable from tlie . driftinir pack-ice in the season f(>r navigation, that T fear we will not soon have specimens of the rocks by which to determine tb sembling the coast at Cape FarcAvell, the iclea.of fossiliferous strata may safely be excluded.^ The north shore of Jones' Sound^s,from Cape Clarence to Pickthonie Bay, appears in outline to resemble a tufaceous formation. Brit ^ suspect it and the south shore ,frota Cape Fitzroy westward into the Trenter Maintains, together with Coburg and Leopold Islands, and Princess Charlotte's Monument in the entrance of Jones': Sound, are all one hypogenous fonnation, con tinuous with that alretTdy indicated northward of Cape Clarence to Victoria Head. From CapV Fitzroy southward to Hyde Bay, the coast •^IKK^ I I' ( Mi tt ^K' V < i ^^^^1^ • ^j- ) .**y HKMAHKS ON THK jipiHiars to |»oiliikr of tin. smno primitive tli.i meter. IJnt at till' latter locality, one or t\v.. tabulated liills ooour with uiidulatiii.fr slopes, which seem to be either a secondary probably r«»ssilifcrous formation or trap, assuming' at the distance from which we observed it a distinctly stratified appearance. From tlfese table hills to (:a|)e Warronder and westward to Or«iker Hay, , iHi the north shore of Lancaster Sound, there is a sliorht resemblance with Disco Island ; this, however, is not sufficient to refer so larjre a portion of the coast to the same igneous agency as that island ; although, there iieed be no doubt of its noii'fossiliferous character.' On the opposite shore of Lancaster Sound, at Cape Walter Bathurst, the cry8tallinQ(|n»eks are again recognized, and from this point south- : ward they form the whole coast, with, soOTur as my knowledge goes, ordy one exception, near Cape Walsingham, where co^l has. been foimd by the whaling ships. The islands in and on both sides of Cumberland Straits, of Baffin, and Hudson, or Hogarth Sound, of Penny on the nith and (ISth degrees of latitude, are chiefly, so far as that unexplored part has been examined, composed of primitive and metamorphic roc'ks. At Kingaite, a large inlet on its north side 4: If •*^ f'HYSrCAr, CKOhRAPHV, FTC. }r,9 oadm^r ,n the direction \' Cupo WalHinglm,,, Horn thcappearanco of the land at n; distance of ^nn analogies betweeir the ^olo^cal characte,^ \ ^ of tJie east and west shores of Davis Stmits and 7 l^ffinBay. V ^ '"»« c'^tensive primitive fi^nation indicated' m these remarks, to extend from Victoria Head, abo,U latitudeVD^ to Cape Enderby, latitude 68^ on the side of Cumberland Stmits. is flanked to the wG^rd by an equally, if not much morei ' V .*„ " , » — J'" ""*' "mill more, extensive Formation, *f silurian rocks, the limits ofwhichasyetwe hMe been quite unable to ascertain. The chief, indeR in the present state of our knowledge, it may be paid, the only navigable channel through which the latter 1^4 been reached is Lancaster Sound ; it is probable however, we may find it continuous to the west- ^a«l with the ilmerican series of the same n»ck«. Through the labours of Mr, Konig and Professor Jameson, thirty years ago, and of Mr. • baiter only^ veiy recently, some of the point>r^ peculiar to North Somerset, J^orth Heron ^ I in t I 1.'' -.•I r ) - - i mi f?Tl ii^ ^Sy - \ 160 KEMARKS ^N THE the Nortli Ocrtrjriaii iHlanda, have Ihkti dcscrilnCl from the fm<,'iuoiitnry spocimeiis Hrouoflit homo by the ships ei)»rairetl in the discoverv of these pkocs during the last thirty yeais.* * Tn tlie vicinity of Cape Farewell, at Julianas llaab, T believe, some ore otcopptr has been foujid by the Danes, but o!ily in small quantity-. And northward to Upper Navik, in the same coast, fji'ttphite of tolerable jjurity occurs in con-> sidenible abundance. The Danish settlers have not yet bc Albert," a ship recently rotume^ frpni Batty Bay, Prince Regent's Inlet, on the east shore of North Somerset, thus proving undeniably ' the presence of the ^SSilurian series of rocks in that Idcolitv. / r ^ r PHYSICAL OEOGIUl'HY, £Td>. igj I »«rth part of the Ma^^torn and westcn, I.enii- sphoroH, wo sh<,uld find indicati.>ns of both elevation .and suhsidunco of the land The ex tenm-o researches of Sir Charles Lyall nr.>ve tha these wonderful phenomena have oteurred ill the north of Europe, and those of Dr. Pinc.el < and Captain Graah, in Greenland, leave m> doubt that tlie east coast of that icy continent IS gradually subsiding.* The tertiary deposits of the ektensive fossiliferous region ' westward of l^ncastpr Sound, occurring, at evuiy ^vaticS:^ trom the sea level to |5^bftWy1,0()« tlie peatest height attained by any part of the'uand in that tract, marked by mised beaches and aboundmg in shells found alive in the present day ,n the surrounding seas, .sug-est the idea with an unnustakeal^ meaning of a gmdual uphejival. It is di^' to conclude whether, the deposition of the calcareous san^ston^^ and- the eruption of the subriiarine volcanic matter found m West Greenland is contemporaneous with that of the fossiliferous strata, five hundred mdes to the westward'; the probability, however V cannot be denied, that the accumulation of thj t detntus of the latter strata, rontoining as it does l marme shells, took place at a period subsequent;^. • Pmciples of Geology, Seventh Edition, chap, xui 'i,'!' « ■<. \\\ ■^c .^- I- ' ^ ^f --^J- > -t ^ i(;2 '-^HEMAKKM ON-TIIK"* . • ; . -«» , ' • - , to tlio flovntibii <»f tlic former froili iK-iivytlrtlio ofcnn. On.tlw! OroenljHul witlJ wctintl iiuiiuinw! ^ liouMcrs of f^iU'isH ami j^jUiite rrstiii«:r on islaiitlH mid parts of thi' cMast, ^iNliicli presgut (|uito^ a ' HiHt-rciit .structure from that of the rocks sup- port! nne, previous to the elevation of the CJrccnland coaSt, coirfd Iiave dropped theiii uimui thcfj&ircsting places. Onilib undtilatmj^ ^4opes and j^long the raised beaches .of the Noith Georj^ian group,xanll North Devon, we also find travelled luatOrials^ such as fmgnieiit^ of ^eeii- stonc, quartz, and aiitliracite, sci^xSntine gneiss, ^^ granite, but of sticli small size that we at once refer their ftiode of conveyance not to icebergs* but to coast-ice, sujch as in the jiresent day occupies the comparatively shallow seas in the ' . various inlets and channels leading from the western extremity (tf I^ncaster Sound. If, then, these two regions differ in the present day, by "• the one undergoing subsid^ce while the other is moving in an opposite^direetion, or is at least in <■ a state of apparent permanency, they also differ with respect to thi phy^iical agents peculiar to each' in by-gone epochs. * This leads the attcn- - tion to'-'glacial action, which is of vast impor- - t^tice to the geologist and physical geographer. -i ■' i f 1 (J t ti a V • ii St X hi til fif th im sic in .till in Til 4 Af .J • I I • /' / <> -. ' At CnpoFaruAvdI,:tlie fiords nfiiiso fiir into ^ tl.e interior timt not one otthe ireb%t e«^^,inatn.;f njasses in the " ndijrhbourhood offthia l^ronumtoiy, they. n.UHf have drifted to it froh'i other .sources. As we advance northward alon.r the oast of^West Greenland, and tlAis diminish the annunl mean temjieraturo both bf the sea and 6f.^ho atmosphere, wO find the glacier ji^,- proaches nearer and neaped ^he coast-lino, until ' •^ 111 Melville 1%, latitud6 75", it presents to the Hea one con^nuoiis w(ill ofTce, unbfoken by hind^ lor a space of prvbabl^ seventy or eighty mile^. : tor the southward gT Melville Bay there are humei't.^outlctH^in the. coast for .the ice, and they vary in breadth from two or 'threg up to fifteen to twentjF^miles. ^ To have n correct idea of the glacier accumulation in Greenland, we must imagine a continent of ice protectedon its seaward «ide by a number of islands, and lost Jo ,vision m every otli^r direction as one boundless and con- .tinuous plain. This is remarkably well shown - m the maj) accompanying. Dh Rink's work.* .Tlirough tlrfe spaces between tbefiT islands, A Af^i, ^^r^*"" Hanaclsdisihktcf. I. Nord, Greenland, At II. Riiik.^ ' ^ ^ ' ' • . '.,■■■ ''■'"- ^ r ■ • - , _ v^- •S%" v-^ 1(54' KEMAUKS ON TIIK m "T"' i^^^- N *ltlie gathered winter of a thousand years" slowly seeks its passage to the sea, and sends off an annual tribute of icebergs to pncumber, to cool, and to dilute the waters of the adjoining ocean. The aVcafage height or depth of the ice at its free, edg© in these valleys^ is about twelve or fifteen hundred feet, of which I beheve on6- eighth or one hund:|Bd and fifty feet will be above -water. In some of the valleys, however/ the depth is upwards of two ^ousand four hun- dred feet. This may be^onsidered to be satis- factorily ascertained, for the Esquimaux around South-east Bay, latitude 68°, while pursuing their fishing, avocations during the winter months, require lineo of three hundred fathoms to/reach the bottom at the foot of the glacier in '^ the vicinity of Claushaven. ^ In South-east and also in North-east Bay, we iheet with the ice that draws the greatest depth of Water ; tut those of Melville Bay and of several of the smaller bays immediately to the south- _ ward of it are of the greatest cubic contents. At Cape York, in latitude 76° ^ although the glacier is the northward continuation of the glacier in Melville Bay, its protrusions into the sea never exceed fifty to sixty feet above the sea level ; and in some places it does jiot enter /■ ,/ -^Sfci: t^ PHYStCAL GEOGRAPHY, ETC. 1G5 the sea in a continuous mass; but havincr descended over the cliffs it breaks off and slipt down mto the water over the rocks, which thus become scratched and scored in a remarkable manner. This is well seen at Cape Fitzroy, on the south side bf Jones' Sotind, and at Cape Bowen, on the^outh side«fc>ond's Bay, where the free edge of. the ice is about fifty feet thick, and at least two hundred feet above the ., ,.«ea leveV which with a tolerable slope would make a surface of, I should say,Hhree hundred feet m- breadth, ovef which the scaring process might extend. It is somewhat interestino- to , the geologist to observe this powerful abradin^r Hction; it would bo a mistake, however, to consider It generally applicable, for .althoucrh many hundred (I may safely state several thou- sand) mdes of coast intersected by glaciera were X examined in this voyage of the "Isabel," the cited Jocahties, with one or twcVtrifling exceptions, were tBe oirly-^placeswhere it jvas observed. I believe It can be acco^int^^ L far by tfie steepness of the inchnation, but chiefly by the ice having 6f|ome^ more friable (less plastic) from th^ diibmshed temperature ; it is probable also the thickness or depth of the ice m^iy take an im- portant part .in developing this interesting ' 1 ; ■'\i ^M .1()6 ItKMARKS ON THE '! ; m w-U feature. One cannot easily detennine why tlic icebergs that come from the glaciers at and to \ the northwavd of Cape York, and on the west side of Davis Straits and Baffin Bay are' .generally of less dimensions than elsewhere. At "Cape York, where we have a new formation 'of rocks commencing, and farther northward in the same coast, it Is probably owing to the com- , parative' shallowness of the valleys, and to a diminished supply of snow from the greater intensity of the cold. On the west coast, from Victoria Head to Jones' Sound, although the land has almost a perfectly icy casing, the ice- bergs that are sent off are by no means large, and this, as so far in the other case, may arise from the decrease of vapour with the decrease of , temperature. Again, .from this souift^-sbuth- ward, there cannot be such extensive accumula- tions of ice a« on the opposite and more northern shore of the straits, although the rocks in both cases are of the same crystalline nature, for the # reason, I believe, that the vapour-bearing stra- tum of air coming from the northw^ard over an extensive tract of land, yields but^reantily to the growth of the glagii^-x)!! tKb former as . compared \vith.^e 'latter. . But it/ baffles sftill, more to uecount for the entire absei ce of glacier ] ( I c € C e a - %"'lfetfe i Ajife ' 'ft"'»M^i'- ; i t'l \|" a "a 'iJt - ''t «T" ■ -<■ PHYSICAL geography;. ETC. ■ >' j«^" 167 on the Silurian formation, west ward of Lancaster KSound. Why the snow and rain, falling on the land around Barrow Straits and its toutary inlets and bays, should all escape into the sea in running streams every year during the two short months of July and August, while that faUing on the coasts of Davis Straits makes its escape ^ Jis hard but yielding ice after a lapse of many ages, is a question worthy the deepest attention of the student of nature. Jhe annual mean temperature in the creeks and inlets of Barrow Straits is several degrees lower than that in corresponding latitudes on the shores of Davis Straits ; and even -at Wolst^hholme Sound, nearly two degrees farther north, the annual mean temperature is Ihke degrees higher than at Melville Island. This comparison of annual mean temperature will not throw any light upon our difficulty. The ranges of temgefature will pr6b^bly prove naofe- usefiil. A few degrees up or dowjj, about the freezing point of water would -settle 4he question.. We know that the sea exerts a wonderful influence' in rendering tlie climate temperate, as weU as reducing the ranges of temperature. Where there is the griatest extent of water, be it fresh or salt, there the annual mean is greatest and the ranges are least. «., ,' i ;■! & . ! ■< Mr f: ■'I r ,.'t f| 168 REMARKS ON THJi Upon this theory, which has been so ably proved to be correct, by Sir Charles Lyall, the summer ^ in the neighbourhood of Barrow Straits ought to be hotter thah in Davis Straits, in the same latitude. And sucjh we find it, as far as our limited observations in theni- can bo made available. The month of July\ 1851, at Corn- wallis Island, was found to be three de£rrees warmer than the same month of the preceding year, in a corresponding latitude, on the east\ side of Davis Straits. This di£fer^ce is but , slight, however, it is on Jhe favourable side, and when we associato^^fci^tjths- 'j^i^l|^inimalized character of the land, 'and*alagjr thej 'diminished supply of vapour during the winter months, we have an approximation ^o the true cause why tlrergiaxaer preponderates so largely in one direc- tion, while it is entirely absent in another. The travels of Professor J. Forbes and of Agassiz, in the Alps, have so fully established the true theory Of the descent of glaciers, despite the apparent difference between the regions they visited and Greenland, as to render any remarks here almost altogether unnecessary. Tlie introduction of extraneous matter into thf substance of the ice to be borne along must be«« the same in ovQiy country. ^ And so also musL^ / ^ "■^TT^' /" PHYSICAL OEOGRAPIIY, ETC. 169 / be the deposition of moraines where the glacier begins to protrude beyond the land, whether#iey occur at the sea-level or at turnings at higher elevations. This deposition of earthy matter arises from the decay of the ice, rich in such material, consequent upon free exposure to the action of the suiTj. and it was remarkably well seen at the south s^e of th(> Petowak glacier, in the neighfjourhood of Cape AthoU, both at the sea levd and at an angle two miles farther up the sidy of the glacier. The concentric and wavy appearance, so often noticed to be peculiar to the si/rface of the glaciers in the Alps,, is well exemplified in the vicinity of Cape Saumarez and of Cape Aliixander. "Professors Forbes and Ag^ssiz agree in attributing the roughness and ii^gularity of the surface to the inequalities of le bottom over which it has to pass, and more, Especially if the action of the ^un has not been distributed irregularly by means of extraneous matter. The concentric lines and wavy appear- ance above adverted to are scarcely to be attri- buted by these observers to the inequalities of the Wtom; the other irregularities, however, such as "crevasses," and extensive "faults" can be referred to no other source, although.it must be confessed that the relation of sympathy ' N.Jl ■»iwti^«w»|r|i^r' .»• iSj?- ■' -'^' \\ ¥ \ w ■' % \ m m r ili! 1% 170 REMARKS ol^ TilE cannot be voify poworful which appears to exist between tlxe lower and upper surfaces of sucli a plastic mass as a glacier, apart as they are in some cases upwards of two thousand feet. That there is this sympathyand relation, however small or limited they may be in their operation, there need be no doubt, for, in many icebergs we often observe crevasses extending throudiout all" of their length and breadth that is visible, which liave become so filled wi^ mud and extraneous matter as to be discernible at a distance of many miles; and these crevasses could not have XfMJcurred at any time or under, any circumstances except during the desceijt of the glacier. Tlie glacier of Petowak, and another glacieiptf small size neiar Cape Fitzroy, shew the crevasses and faults, or slips in great perfection. There is, , however, a peculiarly pinnacled condition of the upper surface of many magnificent^ icebergs and ' extensive glaciers which cannot possibly bje attributed to inequality at the bottom, and many icebergs and glaciers of very large ^ze, as well as small, are so flat and smooth in the upper surface that one can hardly conceive any rocky bottom to be equally smooth, torn up, as it can- " not fail to be, by glacial action. On the noHh side of Clarence Head, in the north shore ofA, \- ■ ■ f '&'^- ' - ' ^jL^ ■ ' -" ' & -^ A%'^&^ - JrtA ' * N- \- 4^" PHYSICAL OKOGRAI'IIY, ETC. 171 Jones' Sound, I observed that one portion of the 8yrfac^> of a flat but extensive ghieier that pro- truded several miles into the sea was exceedingly ' smooth, while another portion of it was "so nunutely rough and pinnacled that to have walked over it would have been quite, impos- sible. We must assign this roughness either to some peculiar atmospheric influence, or to the difference of temperature betweenlttie si/rface and the interior of the glacier, togelh^r with a downward motion. Eight feet is the tlHgltnesS^- to which a mininmm temperature of ^ 45°, a monthly mean ojf -^ J3p*; or an annual niJan temperature of + 2'5, extended the freezing .j)oint of water through freshwater ice on a lake in lat. 74° 40' north, and loh. 94° 16' west ; the greatest depth of the Water i^ the lake being only two;fetIioins. If we can presume the con*- ducting Jiower of ice formed on the surface of, water and of glacier ice io be the same, then the temperature of thfe'' glacier below the above depth with the same minimum or mean annual degree of cold, would be + 32°. The surface ex- posed to every alternation of heat android, from the freezing point to - 45°, or possibly many degrees lower, would necessarily become con- ^ torted and disturbed by contraction and eximn- ( •>, ■1 I! '!.'.' I fU X. * a ' , -, -^ vr t % .' 'fVlf^ r" '"■i*^*»."7 172 % REMAIIKS ON THE uy sioii, oven dl^poHo the vbodies supporting it were standing still. \ But when we reflect tliat the latter retains its plasticity and continues its downward motion, it need hot be wondered that the former, hard aijd brittle, assumes a broken up appeamnce. Tliis view, however, does not quite satisfy us for the reason that it is not uni- versally applicable. ^ \ FWlowing the example of Mr. Christie, one of tlV secretaries of the Royal Society,* during a winW in Barrow Straits,'^ I performed a number of exphrinients bjswubiiiitting water, in a strong iron botHe, -to various. temperatures, from +30° to - 4 5^ XThe result d#^^^^^ as a matter of\course,\,€OngeIation of the water, acconipunfcdbV the usual expansion, in which a cohunn of ice ^se through the orifice of the bottle to a heightXin proportion to the quantity * of water used/ and the dimensions of the orifice. -While the temperatVe did not descend more than .eight or ten deWees below the free^'ing point, the colunm of^ ic6 ascending through the j)rifice or " fuze hole, • and always ftmountiriff to about one-tenth, of the AVhole mass of water, 4'. " * / *v Sir Charli'd Lyall's Prmuipk^a of Geologv. Seventli MUM, p. 22tt. V I - ■ ^ PIIYi«ICAL OKOOUAPIIT, ETC. i7M retamed its cohenivo property in hucIi perfection that, without beinpr broken, and althouj?!, only half an inch in diameter, the whole apparatus, weighing four or five pounds could be raised,' and soinetini^s even invented by its means. But at ^ower temperatures t[»e ice escaped with a creiijtating sound, and frequently with exjilosive re^s, accompanied each by a sudden rejection or propulsion of a portion of it to a distance of several feot ; it was so friable, too, that it sepa- nited into discs, half or a quarter of an inch in thickness, and sometimes crumbled into frag- ments among the fingers. Ther important points contested some year^ ago by Professors J. Forbes and Mr. Hopkins come within this field of research. They are well known, and need not be recounted hero. From what has been observed in the Alps, it may be considered a settled question, that the do^vnward motion of glaciers inconstant, and unaffected vby lo^ temperatures applied to the surface, especi- ally when the thickness or depth of tlie solid ice amounts to a great number of feet. In the Alps, and even within the tropics, although it, may appear strangejio-^ontemplate glaciers in the latter region, they travel great distances from the snow and ice-clad heights until gradu- • ^"-^- ■I, >f 'iH f, \ m r i-"*^^^ ■^* mry- c ■-..-.* J^r < » 1 1 ' i M ^ ,#1. / • 174 HE)<|!^ltKS ON THE 4 ally thoy descund to arid perhaps beyond tlio regions habiUiMe by man, where they undcr«'o dissolution by the "inerense Of temperature. In Greenland, after dejjcendincj to the rtea throu«(h the valleys, they retain their hold of the partu- rient womb beyond until the buoyant i)roperties of ice come into operation, and then thoy jrive birth to icebergs of sometimes inconceivable di- mensions. The const/int rise and fall of tlie tide exerts great power in detatching these floating ice -islands. By it a hinge-like action is set up as soon as the glacier comes within its influence, and is carried on although tlio su/face of the sea for many leagues around is covered with one continuous sheet of ice. After summer has set in and advanced somewhat, the surface-ice either drifts or melts away, and we have winds prevail- ing in a direction contrary to what they had been during the cold season of the year, and', the result of these winds is a Ircat influx of water iiito Davis Straits, causing tides unusual for height at other Reasons' of the year, and thus setting at^iberty Miole fields of icebergs^ which then commence theif'^low southward course. In August, 1850, the number set free in a deep fidrde, near Omenak, North-east Bay, so occupied the navigable passage out of the harbour at that n^ . r^-sa^^' ■=■■') "'nF**^ ^ ■'"'^ rilYSICAL UEOdlM'i'HY, ETC. 17:> i ■ sittlenient tlmt'tho Dunish Hl,i,v which had but a nuuitli |)rcvi(.UHjy entered tl;e harbour with perfect safety, was in danj^er of boin- detained for the winter. In the wimo month of 1 8.-52, th# ^ PliYHICAL GEO«»UAPIiy, JTC. if; ki c 4 ,| . net ,on, m its most intense fom.. upon their * .,^tl* r y "' r"^^' ^^''^'^' A«^'Ji-»« and cirr- ^ ^ iilKdM^^and innny other auinialH which att^idi th,ciu8oIve8.to the rocks at cdnsidorabltf depths ara^^often brougrht up. Tho Echinodenns! ^-: whtch we know ar6 too^low in^their moUons ^o escape danger, swami in the utmost pmfusion « ^. %^^8. Tlie sea-urchin (^c/m„« ne^/«^«.^, and several genera of brittle-stars have b^eir r fQund m Melville Bay; at depths vaiying from 90 up to 200 fathoms. And tl^e same crea- tures, together with many others, among which ^ may be recognized the genem Tcrchratula, Mya, Saxicava, MijtiM Cardium, (perhaps Vcnencardia,) Pecten Astarie, Lcda, NucJa, Lima, Natica, Scutaria, Chitm, Patella, Fmu- relh, besides great varieties of Corallines Ser- ' puh, Ac, have also been found at various depths, from two to one hundred fathoms among the Hunde Islands in North-east Bay where icebergs abundantly float about and often take the ground, ^me of the larger shells taken up were ar;godd deal broken up, and not unfreqMently deposits of their finely divided de^tus were discovered by means of the dredge ' Exeept fr^m the evidence tjius afforded by plants and^ animals at the. bottom, we have no i^ ]■ <■';■' I ■t. <1 * 1 ft" ■ . - - 1 .•■.'. . ' « , '*" r ,-. ■ ''^ I , , ft>^ .,p:i.).'';> ■>%■*., '^;,,\'^'v?, « , ' ' • <^Pp. : '^ „ ^- ■ / • . ' ' ■ i/: ■( .' >78 llllMAKKS ON THK means whatever to ascertain the effects produced by icebergs upon the , rocks. Doubtless, when these powerful agents contain earthy matter they must scratch and groove the rocks at the bottom "as the diamond cuts the glass," and when they are impelled along a muddy bottom they cannot fail to raise moraines and leave deep depressions in its otherwise smooth surface. But ii' will be well to bear iri mind that when' an iceberg touches the ground^ if that ground is hard and resisting, it must come to a stand ; the propel- ling power continuing a slight leaning over in the water or yielding motion of the whole mass compensates, very readily for being so suddenly arrested. If, however, the ground is S(|R, so as not of a sudden to arrest the motion of the ice-, berg, a moraine will be the result; but the moraine thus raised will tend to bring the ice- berg to a stand. This is the more readily con- ceived when we contemplate that th§. power which impels icebergs is applied to about the upper third or fourth part of their whcde bulk. The conveying power of icebergs is so well known to geologists and observers generally that any remarks I can make here will scarcely add to their importance, which cannot be too duly appreciated. . The chief, indeed it may be safely .- * ;. ■ L, - " ■ . ^ "V^/-' PHYSICAL GEOGRAFHY, KTC. 179 t ' asserted, the only source from" which they receive foreign matter is the land constituting both sides of the valleys.traversed by the glaciers. It may howe^e^be received from other source^?' f W.e often tfigught that the fiugments of a huge ice- berg, acquiring a state of quiescence \fter the J)arent mass had separated into such fragments . m one of it^ fearfully grand revolutions, had turned up the mud and other earthy matter from the bottom. Thjs, however, is doubtfiil, for w-e can hardly conceive it possible that any- . thipg extraneous can adhere to hard and brittle ice p^smg rapi^^ through the water. Icebergs are sometimes floated so close along a bold and overhanging rocky coast as to touch the perpen- ^ dieiil^r diffs and to rembve disintegrated frag- ments of the rock. Anmher, and probably the most common of these unusual modes is from i coast-ice, which, impelled by the winds and tides, ' IS often piled up with its load of rounded pebbles, sand and mud, against the sides o^ icebergs. The foreign matter thus cast upon icebWgs must necessarily be precipiMed to the boLm the '5 first revolution it undergoes ; so that it is not ^ ikely to be conveyed to the same distance as that received by the iceberg while in the fonn of a glacier. In some, cases however, it might ■U Mi.. 180 REMARKS ON THE r require a few revolutions to cast off the whole of the adven|y;iou8 matter received from the coast- ice. .■^ The quantity of rocky matter^ which ice is ijcapable of floating away caii be estimated from the specific gravity of botti substances. Taking 2-5 as the specific gravity of granite '92 as that of ice, an iceberg, half a mile in breadth, a mile in length, and two hundred feet in height aboV^y f*^/l ' the sea level— dimensions, I may observe, by no means out of the average — will carry a load of extraneous matter upwards of one hundred and fifty millions tons weight. Some of the ice- bergs seen in Davis Straits are so charged and ^^Tftipregnated with earthy matter that by an inex- perience4 person they may be mistaken for land itself And we often observe large masses of rock, each upwards of one htmdred tons weight, lying on the surface of the iceberg, or deeply imbedded in its substance. By far the greatest number of these floating worlds, as they may well be termed, dissblve in Davis Straits, and deposit their earthy contents throughout its extent. Some of them, how- ever, find their way into the AtlantijC, and appear disposed to push far to the southward into the temperate zone. As Sir Chalrles Lyall has .^m e of 3 IS •om ing hat aile ■ no ■ ■■" ■ md ice- md - ex- md of ht, ply in [its iW- jar Jie las PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, ETC. JSl remarked, where the greatest number of these undergo dissohition there the deposition of rocky , matter is most active, consisting, a« it does, of angular and rounded fragments, together with sand ana mud, much of which are from sources -of very opposite characters. ^ Surface ice also is,well known as an agetit of importance in conveying a^% to considerable distances the materials of the sea-coast! With strong gales the ice' in the Arctic Seas, when free to move in all directions, is driven in upon the coast with great force, and if the bottom about the low water mark is composed of loose . gravel or mud, moraines are raised to a height of several feet. The wind ceasing, and high tides proving favourable, the ice again withdrax^s from the coast, canying with it large accumulations of the loose shingle or gravel and mud, which it drops in the surroun^ng sea severkl hundred ij^%irom their sc^^^. The moraines'it had" raised are not oblite/ated, Ud as winter begins to hem the coast wj^h a fringe of ice they cause ' , an irregularity in the surface of the latter by the rise and faU of the tides, which results in a large portion of their contents-pebbles, sand, mud, and probably also abundant traces of animal and vegetable matter-being included in the V / •7 ■..)■ :::1 asS: 182 REMARKS ON THE hi "A new ice formation. Tlijs process* ceases alto- gether for that season only with the return of summer, alid then the coast-ice, varying in thick- ness from two or three up to twenty or more feet according to the degree of cold and the stillness of the water, is subject, in some- localities at least, to the power exerted by debacles in load- ing it with foreign matter. Thus loaded then it withdraws from the coast when the straits and inlets open out and drifts many hundred miles before it yields itself and its careftilly borne cargo to the sea under the dissolving action of the sun. We shall find this occurring every season on the south shore of the North Georgian Islands. But from the testimony of numerous travellers, as is shown by Sir Charles Lyall,* it occurs on a much more magnificent scale at the en- trance of the great American and Siberian rivers which discharge themselves into the Arctic Seas. The necessity there is for currents into the Arctic Sea to keep up its mean slalinity will become obvious when we reconsider the vast amounf of fresh water which enters it in the form of icebergs alone from the heaven descended gla-^ ciprs. That there are currents out of it is aKady • Priiicipltvt of Geulogy. iSoveutli^Editiou. I'age 80. V k ii^l i ^S ^ ^ di&im^^ ^^- "^: •^ PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, ETC. 185 natural temperature of 30o, And in the abstracts it will be observ-ed alhiost invariably that the presence of^ Ice diminished the density and this, m my own estimation, is referable to ^.cause except the mere effects of refrigeration wrthoutcongelation or dissolution. -^ ^ ^ Bef^^e^ever, this theory of a northerly seekin^curr^iilMQtoDavis Straits can be finally accepted, we must>over the difficulty arising from the pos^ion of the. great Arctic cuj^ent' in the North Atlantic. ' This current we are told sweeps soifthward across the entrance of Davis Straits, and in this way it must prevent the ingress of any water at the surface from the Atlantic into the Straits. The Rev. Dr. Scoresby I beheve, suggests the idea that two currents varying m temperature may cross by passing, the one underneath the other.* ^The question then arises as to theorder of supei|>osition If sea-water, independpt of its " saline matter, foUows he law of expans;on peculiar to wate; from +40 to +32°, one cuiTent at a tempera- ture of +36° may rise another at +44° and if we separate the extremes, eight degrees m'ore, the coldest is stiU the most buoyant, for, even B^,^' "-"^'^ ^"''•P'- of G-l«8y. Seventh ^ i (Kl ■:. i"i -* } II -n- 'I ■:j^-' V. xf^^^^crV 186 REMARKS ON THE ft: '%'■ although it is sea- water, if in a quiescent state, a portion of it will have become congealed. It is well known that the process of congelation separates the watery from the saline particleSy But there seems to me to be no reas6n why^is separation should be confined solely to the act of congelation, since it is pwing to the universal law of contraction, observed in obedience to cold by, I believe, everything in nature except water, itself, and that only between the temperatures of +40° and +32°. This mayi appear at variance with the experiments of Errman.* Until, however, our knowledge of the physical changes peculiar to these high latitudes extends very considerably, such phenomena as that above alluded to must remain more or less obscure; at present we may rest . assured, that a meeting and commingling of waters differing in point of salinity and temperature takes place in the eutrance of Davis Straits, and to this, causing sudden a^d decided changes in the atmosphere, may be attributed in great measure the extreme violence of the storms experienced by navigators when they approach Cape Farewell. Presuming, then, upon the existence of cur- rents of water from warmer latitudes into the • Loc. cit. Principles of Geology. ',«■ •/ PHYSICAL/ GEOGRAPHY, ETC. ■* , '» 't 187 Arctic seas, whicl? Wy assist the action of the sun m dissolving icebergs and surface ice as well as supply the salts to keep up the mean salinity of these distant ramifications of the ocean, we are ma position to consider thej Went' and character of deposits and accumulations of " till" now foiW^ in the track of these conveying agents.: At the confluence of t.wo opposite cuirents, ,the largest Uount of foreign matter will be deposited, 'for these icebergs and coast ice are brought to a stand in the eddies, and are hable to be detained untU they dissolve. In such cases submarine ridges and mounds begin to grow above the level of the sea bottom, and- they may continue to increase until the surface of the water is reached. A bank in latitude 67° and 680 of the coast of Wqst Greenland, and well known to the whaling and cod-fishing ships by the name RiscoU or EeefkoU, seems to ' answer this description. The depth of water over the highest part of it does not exceed fifteen fathoms. It appears to'be composed of .angular fragments of ro^k, and other materials brought down by iceberg^ and coast ice. This however, can only be inferrM from the sounding hne, and* the rough usage to wtich the lines of the whalers are submitted when they attack \ r" ■k' I., i ■ 'X ;! . t ■ il I* -uyi 188 REMARKS ON THE i m and get fast to their prey in its neighbourhood.* Its limits can be deffned almost at all times by the clusters and groups of small icebergs that ground upon it. Ahdlike other banks of a simi- lar character, but of less extent on the sanxp coast, it is exceedingly fertile in shoals of cdte^ and in abundance of very fine halibut, whiclif^iquent it in the months of May, June, July, and^ugust. Tliese and myriads of other fishes including" vast numbers of sharks may be found in thase seas during the .whole year, but this we have nbt yet had the'means of testing scwfvjlly as we require. In other parts of Davis Stf||fe and Baffin Bay, where the dredge has been moi'e extensively used, the bottom, is. composed of fine mud^ sand, angular fraginents of rock, pebbles, shells,'- and deposits, resulting from the minute subdivision of calcareous phosphatic and siliceous animal remains, portions of which hjlve been brought up in the dredge from time to time. In the imme- diate neighbourhood of isknds composed of ctystajline rocks, the bottoni was found to be rocky with occasional plots or patches of accu- mulations of fraghients of the lame rock. From a depth of twenty-five to thirlsy fathoms, at the Hunde Islands, South-east Bay, already noticed, the dredge passed over a loose and softish i'^^. / >^. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, ETC. 18i) deposit, and' brought up a quantity of dark coloured finely divided matter resembling peat moss, which appeared to have been the result of the decomposition of sea-weed at the bottom ; in some parts the roots, being the hardest and most enduring parts, could be distinguished. DiatoHiacea and other minute animal forms, higher in the order of. creation, -are exceedingly abundant within the Arctic circle -Mud from almost every source has not yet failed to yield "considerable varieties, and not a few new species. But the surfacQ-ice undergoing rapid decay by the action of the sun and of the water to-' gether, is the source where a person is most successful. It often occurred to me th9,t micro- scopic forms may be accumulating in a state of great purity, and to a very considerable extent in some. of>l^ highly favourable localities so common, in Davi^Straits. In many of thewpH sheltered bays where the water is still anTthe ice dissolves without drifting much about, k brownish sHme, consisting of nothing but theSe forms, in the most perfect and living state, occupies the whole surface of the water among^ the ice, which after the ice has all disappeared becomes roUed into peUicles by the rippling of the water, and ultimately sinks to the bottonv /. ■ : , ,' 14? 190 ■^^^ HKMAHKS ON THE Tliis process of deposition, extending over tlioti- sands (|lf years, nirould produce accumulations scarcely second to those of tlie " berg meal/' of Sweden, or of the tripoli of the Isle of France. In addition to such varied materials as we have indicated, this new formation of "till" will contain abundant remains of animals of a much h%her order. Of all parts of the ocean, the polar are those ?nost frequented by the cetacea and the seals. The numbers of the former are very great and that of the latter almost beyond com-, prehension. In the Greenland seas, especially during the months of March and April, in the vicinity of the island of Jan Mayen, I am .in- formed, that for hundreds of miles the fields of ice are studded with seals, which in the c^se of the young ones are so tame as to be approached with a "sealing" club, with which they are killed.- The bones of these animals must be strewed plenti- fiilly on the bottom, and thus they will become constituents of the growing deposit, if they do not undergo decomposition. It may also contain the enduring remains of other mammalia.- Every Arctic traveller is aware of the fact, that polar bears are seen on the ice at;.a great distance to sea, and quite out of sight qf l^nd, and* my OAim , „ experience bears testimony to the fact, that not " ; % 'TIS-.-. 1 1 1 c f t <] a " r * -, - • . i: ■-■ ■* ' ■ *■■ ■ . l ' ■■ . . _ i li ..-.;4-.- -yn- — - - . .: y t -^ /■.;•. ■ "' ^ : J ■ ■■ •}.;'■■'■ ■. i'. ■; ■'■. * '.':■ '- ' '^■■ ' ~. ., ■ .. 1 ' t /. ;- ■^ ■■'~' 1 ' . ^ 1 t'M': '^[..,. J if PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, ETd, ini unfreqiiontly they are fou]hd swimming in the sea when ncitlier ice nor land is iri sight. The Arctic fox, and I believe also the wolf— animals not generally known to take the wjiter, are often set adrift upon the ice and are tliiis blo^yn out to sea where they perish, when the ice dissolves if they have not previously died 6f starvation; * and cases, are known, althougl/ perhaps not . „recorded, in whiqh human beirigs have been, blown away from the land upon 4e ice and were never heard of. Two persons of my knowledge have disappeared in this manner from the coalt of West Greenland, one of them, however, reached the opposite side of the utraits where he spent the remainder of his life, imong his less civilized brethren. An4 the ships engaged in the whaling on the west sideof ihis strait some- times have to discharge a deedjof humanity by taking up from the drifting fjoes, a group of natives whose avocations had pioved too decoy- ing to be safe. So much as allusion has not been made to the remains of Jreindeer, and the other ruminant inhabitants of these regions, for the reason, that I believt they frequent the ice much less than the others, and conse- quently are much less liable to be drifted ^^^y*^* ^^J^igWy probabli, however- that- rfuLi /' i '!. 1 M i u I ; ^ ;V / . ■ ^ '■ * •» • I » 3 ) ;• 1 r> '- A N s i» •- t . - ■ ' « ^ ' > ^ « « 192 REMARKS ON THE; PHYSICAL GEOORAPHV, their bones sometimes reach the bottom of thet Arctic seas, the ice of rivers and inland bays might be the conveying agents. In the pvent of Davis Straits leaving its bed dry by a subsi- . dence of the sea, or by elevation of the land, we should have to add to our list of natural materials manufactured articles, such as ships' anchors and ^ cables, broken pottery, and btjier unimportant,- although enduring tehcs of ci^lization. ] Note. — I cannot allow these remarks to go to press with- out expressing my regret that time and other circumstances were not sufllcieutly under control, to enable me to furnish Captain Inglefield with an abstract of the zoological results of our dredgings iff Davis Straits. "They have been put into the hands of Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, and Prof. E. Forbes, of tho Geological Survey, who have kindly •undertaken to catalogue those already known, and to describe the new, of which I believe there are several species. If it is not a tribute of respect due to Captain Inglefield, it is at least courtesy to take the liberty of stfiting here, that no person in the capacity* of Commander could have rendered greater assistance and facilities than he did, on every possible occasion, for the adviuncement of our knowledge of the Natural History of the Arctic Regions. ,' ' .^i , "»?, ^^. L r t* METEOROLOGY. ABSTRACTS i ., :', ., , -■ ■'/» . . ■ I 1 OF THB • — ' ; THREE-HOURLr METEOROLOGICAL REGISTBr'kEPT C ^OARD THE DISCOVERY-SHIP "ISABEV Br P. C. SUTHERLAND. ESQ., SFEGEON, [ IS THE NORTH ATLANTIC, DAVIS STRAITS, k BAFFIN BAY. >^ JCIY TO NOVBMBEH, 1852. ALSO. A TABLE SHEWING THE INDICATIONS OP THE STANDARD BAROMETER AND OP TWO ANEROID BAROMETERS, EVERY* DAY AT ^' . . NOON, DURING THE MONTH OP . -" SEPTEMBER ' «■ ;■ ■ r ■■}■ f 4i ,?pf- t i w I If «. 3 ''l/i vr ► \ I u -t M. r*v -^■t- & /N? ^ METEOROLOGY. The follcnng explanations of the abbreviations used of S "S, "/ '" *''"^ '^°™ *^« "Admiralty Manual qf ScentWe Inquiry/' Instead, however, of usin/a dot or pent underneath any letter, to expr^s an extra! ordinary degree, I have preferred using an iSie for the purpose of saving space. - ' „, ^ft' *h« heading "Winds," in the column "Esti- mated Force," numbers from 1 to 12 denote the force of the wind; thus,-0, denotes cal>n;l, ligAt air, just per ceptible; 2, light breeze, in which alp, ,Ln Zl m smooth water, would go from one to two knots; 3, gentle breeze (from t^o to four knots) ; 4, moderate freeze (from four to siJ^knots); 5, ^ wHn which a ship could jmt carry, on a wind, royals, &e • e stormy breeze (single-reefed topsails and top-glllant' sails) ; 7, moderate gale (double-reefed, &c.) : 8 fresh gale (triple-reefed and courses) ; 9, stormy galeae reefed, &c.) ; 10, «^Ao/. ^^McIose^reefed'm'I^tt p^^^^^^ and reefed foresail); 11, ,/«.,„ Jstorm staysails), 12 hurricane (no canvass can stand). ' ----Under the heading " Weather," b. denotes blue sky ~ be the atmosphere clear or heavy; c. clouds, detached opening clouds ; d. drizzling rain ; f. foggy ; g. ^fo^wt/ dark weather; h. 7..7; 1. liglUningi T mltyZl; atmosphere; o. overcast; the^^whole sky covered with thick clouds ; p. passing teml)orary showers ; q. squally r^ram, continued pgin; 3.>o«;; t. thunder; u. ug% o2 t I f -.:i li. h ':',(■■;, 111 ■ ' . ■^ — l" _,^..^ ^\^;-: I? 196 APPENDIX. threatening appearance; v. visibility of objects, clear atmosphere ; w. wet. (dew.) And under the heading " Clouds according to Howard's nomenclature/* c. cirrus, expresses a cloud resembling a lock of hair or a feather, consisting of streaks, wisps^ and fibres, and vulgarly known as mares' tails; K. cumulus, denotes a cloud in dense convex heaps, or rounded forms " definitely termioated above, indicating saturation of the upper clear region of the air, and a rising supplj^ of vappuiifrom below ; s. stratus, in an extended conti^colK^le^ slieet, which must not be confounded with the flat base of the cumulus, when it simp^ reposes on the vapour plain; n. nimbus, is a dense dloiidHspreading out into a crowq. of cirrus above, and passing beneath into a shower. The com- binations Ks., cs., and ck., denoting cumulo-strattii, cirro-stratus, and cirro-cumulus, are suflBciently plain without any explanation. .. ■•■•"i; r .^ /# :X /\' METEOEOLOGIQAL- TABLES, ^ ^'■} .•--•J. V ' : t; lb . b'ki I ' ! \ * ;! • . . «. 1 1 ^ ■J 1 I- •• I 198^ - - \ APPENDIX. '% '\ ' ' : '.:-. ' • .: - .•■ '^ ■ ■ ' ■ ■* ' Abstract of the Meteorolooical Journal sept on board the Discovert Ship Isabel, Capt. iNOtEFiEU), R.N^ ^^it^i 1852. — North JIMantic. - f~^ . - \ X -' Dates. Standard Barometer, 'corrected for capillary actimi, and reduced to - 32° of Fahreuheit. . Beading of the Thermometer in the Shade at It ' Sea Water at Surface. 3 A.M. 6 A.M. ■ 9 A.1I. Noon 3 . P.¥. 6 T-u. 9 P.M. Mid- night Mean paily Tern. Density at 60" Fahr. Haz^ Min. Mean. 13 In. QO 11 - In. 30 10 fti. 30,10 o. x o 69 o' 60 69 o 65 o' ' O 58 1 ; o 53-5 1 -0275 •13 Sf0 03 29-96 30-01 60 65 65 63 60 62 e 56 3 1 -0275 14 •29 97 •87 29 93 62 63 63 63 61 62^4 57 1 0275 +15 •78 •76 •78 61 63 63 63 61 J 62-2 56 3 1 0275 16 •80 •76 •80 ' 63 61 60 61 60 66 60 •! 55.5 1-TS275 17 •79 •60 •68 60 61 60 60 58 55 58^ 55-7 1 -0275 18 •59 •49 •64 65 56 67 57 67 '67 56 66 56-4 56 1^0^ §19 •69 •61 •63 65 56 67 67 66 <68 66 65 56-2 66 1 027 • 20 •71 •64 •«7 66 56 63 64 66 ^68 - 57 ,67 59-4 57^2 1 -026 21 •67 '68 •66 64 66 66 67 57 66 53 63 55 1 67 1 027 22 •67 •50 •68 63 ,fi3 53 54 57 66 63 56 58 1 63 6 1 ^027' t2Z /42 ^•28 •33 63 53 64 65 64 53 60 60 52-3 63-7 1-027 24/ •71 •35 •53 50 50 65 64 69 54 62 62 63 2 55 1027 •2» •90 •73 •83 60 52 63 67 67 61 60 40 51 2 66 1^027 " 26 •92 •76 •87 48 48 iS • 53 66 53 ' 63 53 61 4 54-6 1 026 ■ 27 •82 •69 •71 63 64 '66 55 •54 63 63 51 536 63 1^027 ••28 •90 •79 •87- 60 50 64 -67 65 63 63 60 53 51 1 1026 29 •79 •69 , -64 49 49 60 61 48 49 49 50 49 9 49 1 026 30 •70 •60 •66 44 46; 46 47 47 47 45 38 44-7 45 1 026 1 * 31 •69 •64 .•67 37 37 38 38 39 40 36 84 1 37^4 33-9 1 023 Means • ? I, • ' • MeduacB and Oammarinas abundant ^ - *■ \, f Anatl/a of large size, floating in the surface in great abundance ; a small decapodotu crustacean, and Oammarince, also abundant j ^-j t'orpoises in playful 'achools.' Sea not luminoW, but containing ^^CetocAt^tcfai and brownish if eeliMo;, and also sea-jelly (TAo^oMtcoUa). ■ > § Atwmalocera Pater8onii, and other .Cntom(w(raca,ifi~gfeat numbers, in the surface; Korquaal whales, and porpoises. . ', '- . V Pt-atxllaria Mtjuituit twnn. ' . • » Abst Datis. 12 13 14 •15 16 +17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 ' J28 55» §30 ••31 I Means -y •The nearly 100 + Stan of about tv T Pine coruscation Temperatu owing doul § Saw I: -*kan ! ( ■ ,, - i ..::'■■"/■ A •" \-m ■■-■, '. . ^:... • ■ ■- • ■. , • --t ■,: ^ V, E Discovery ' Sea Water at Surfase. Mean paily Tern. Density at 60" Fahr. ; o 53-5 1 -0275 56-3 1 -0275 57 1 0275 56-3 1 -0275 65.-5 1 18275 55-7 1 -0275 56 i-m 66 1 -027 57-2 1-026 57 '1 027 63-6 1 -027' 53-7 1-027 55 1027 55 1-027 54-5 1 026 53 1-027 61-1 1026 49 1 026 45 1 026 33-9 1 023 *■ tail decapodoM letochUida and in the surface; METEOROLOCyr. ' ' jqq AB^Or O, THE M^TEOROLOOic. JoVJ^^ 4»PT O, BOAB. ^E DiSCOVEHT neurl/'oV**""'"™*""' '" '''' cabin8,,wWa the furnace is lighted, varies from 70- up to Of a^'toteUrethVrievd ' *" *"'' ^""'" "^'''°' ^^'^ '* » P'-^d at an elevation conLSSL'^rn'Tr'the iS^f™^!' ?L* «?' t»-ye"ow cftlopr. extending in distinct Temperatun,.of 1 and dSty SnishinrrthiCf" m '^^\«" »»»« "or^em Sj owing doubtless to the almost constTtZZl^ri 7^t *'**? "^ *'"' ^""""o « «»cbed. g.Saw some iceboprs S Cag FS^tiy"°°° ""°° ^"^^"^ f""° faigh northern latitudes. \ ' § S aw Home iceboiffl at Cape Farewell. " Cam e in a mong di-iBingici. f \ t . V: Ki •f * -^'A / ■ iS.. ,lll. 200 APPENDIX. Abstract of the Met^bolooical Jourkal kept 6k board the Discovery- Ship Isabel, Cabt. Ikglefield, R.N., August, 1^53. — Davis Straits, ^c. ] Dates. stand correct action, 32° ard Barometer, ed for capillary and reduced to . ___ ^^ _ 'B^dioiT of the lliennomQter in the ^ w ' Shadoat , ^.-^ ^ vSeal Water at 'Surface. Fahrenheit. 1 ' ^ 3 A.M. 6 A.M. 9 - p.mI KM. ■■■■9 r.te. Mid^ night Mean Density Max. Min. Mean. If A.M. Noon S^ Diuly Tern. at eO" Fahr. In. In. In., o o , o o o o o o o o 1 29-86 29 69 29-79 33 33 36 36 43 43 •|2 45 38-4 39-6 1024 2 94 •80 •89 37 37 36 40 40 40 42 ,44 39 5 44 1^025 •3 30 01 •91 •95 44 44 45 45 45 43 43 40 43 43 1025 4 29 -96 •60 •78 38 36 34 38 44 40 39 37 38^2 36 1. 1025 5 60 •48 •63 36 37 38 •^9 39 38 40 38 38 1 38-2 V026* 6 •65 •62 •63 37 37 37 40 42 40 38 38 38 6 38 1024 7 •73 •68 •63 39 42 42 40 43 42 40 40 41 38-7 1024 8 •83 •75 ■78 38 40 44 43 41 40 39 ■ 36 40 1 88-7 1 023 9 ■91 •75 •87 38 44 43 43 40 30 40 40 39 7 38 7 1 024 10 •86 •74 •79 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 1024 11 •87 •69 •78 40 39 41 43 42 41 41 , 40 40 8 39^6 1 025 12 •73 •69 •72 40 40 41 42 41 41 40 40 40 6 40 1024 +1^ •79 •64 •78 40 39 38 40 41 39 86 36 38 9 39 4 1 023 14 •75 •64 *74 87 38 39 40 , 40 40 39 38 38-8 38 1 1023 15 •58 •34 •61 37 39 42 43 44 43 40 38 40 •? 89-4 1 -024 16 •43 •20 ■30 36 37 39 43 40 • 40 38 36 38 •e 87 6 1 -025 • 17 •51 •41 •45 36 37 40 43 42 47 38 86 ^0 86-4 1 0235 18 •40 •64 46 36 36 36 38 39 38 36 37 87 37-2 1^0235, 1 •023*' J19 •40 •47 •4» 36 35 . 33 34 34 33 32 32 83 -6 36-6 20 43 •64 •51 31 30 31 31 32 32 • 81 zi ^1 '2 32 1-023 §21 •71 ■61 •67 31 31 32 34 34 33 30 28 316J80 6 1 020, ••22 56 ■46 ■52 28 28 29 -30 30 34 30 28 29 •? 30 8 1 022- 23 •44 •29 •39 29 28 33 33 34 83 33 32 31 9 81 . 1023. " 24 •29 •13 •19 32 32 33 37 36 36 34 33 34 1 32 1023 +t25 •82 •20 •55 32 32 32 35 35 33 3,2 82 32 •9J32 1023 26 ■84 ■73 •76 32 33 34 34 34 34 34 34 33 -6 32 -6 ,1024 :t27 •73 •29 ■49 34 33 32 30 2)i 26 27 27 29 -3,'28 -7 1 0235 28 •75 •28 ■66 28 29 30 30 27 28 .28 30 29 -8j30 1^023 29 •82 •72 '■78 29 30 32 32 ^0 30 30 28 30 -1 30 1 -0235 30 •70 •59 ■64 25 26 28 30 33 30 30 80 29 30-4 1 0235 31 •79 •74 •76 28 27 29 30 30 30 28 27 28^6 ^0-4 1 0235 Means • ' ' * TTialaasicolla thickening the water (at the surface only) ; CetocMlus ardicus exceed- ingly abundant a few feet beneath the surface. T Fulmars and kittiwakes in immense numbers, in North-east Bay, — a favourite breed- ing-place for these birds. t Clio lielicina and boredlis, Cetotjdlus articua, an Amphipodoua crustacean, Sagitta bipuncfata, and hosts of Medvm, in the surface. § Acidians, from muddy bottom, at a depth of fifty fathoms. *• Chroditce, Annelidee, Brittle Stars, and laopodous crustaceans, from muddy bottom, twenty-five fathoms. t t Sea abundant in drifting seaweed and Entomostraea of very lai^ge size. ^____ -tt-Waterr itfae r a bi md antliraYtgrttirMm^'e^ « C apeAlcl^an T ley and ifa fem itir Sound ■j^ < '2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 tl3' 14 16 16 17 §18 19 '•20 ■M-21 22 28 24 1J25 '^ 26 27 §§28 29 80 81 Means E Discovery' 'trmts, Sfc. vSeal Water at 'Surface. Mean Density Diiily at Tern. eO" Fahr. o 39-6 1024 44 1-025 43 1025 36 1 1025 38-2 1025* 38 1024 38-7 1024 38-7 1 023 38 7 1 024 40 1024 39-6 1025 40 1024 39-4 1 023 38 1 1023 3d -4 1 024 37-6 1 -025 • 36-4 1 0235 37-2 1-0235, 1 •023&' 36-6 32 1023 30 6 1 020, 30-8 1 022- 31 . 1023. 32 1023 32 1023 32-6 ,1024 28-7 1 0235 30 1^023 30 1 0235 30-4 1 0236 &0-4 1 0235 ' rcHcua ezcecd- iTourite brccd- tacean, Sagitta nuddy bottom, ^^ ■ '' ' -'ft ■ •:. if. MKTEOROLOGY. 201 ■m^t^et OP thbMoteorolooigAi. Journal KEPT o^ board the Disooveby ^/Shi^ Isabel, CAPT.I»oLEFiELU;K.N.;r August, im.-Bavh Straits. Diktes. 1 <, '2 3 4 +5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 tu 14 15 16 17 §18 19 ••20 ■M-21 22 V 23 24 1J25 '^ 26 27 §§28 29 30 31 WiKDa. Direction. Means N.W. N.N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W, N.W., VBLE, N.W. N.W. to 8.W. s.a.E. B.S.E. 8.E. to N.K. S.E. to N.E. 8.W, B.E. N.E. N.K. to S.W. ♦ N.N.W. 8 C. to S.W. W. to N.E. 8.W. 8.E. to N, NORTH. N.E. to S.W. N.W. to 8.W. N.W. to B.E, 8.E. to N.W. N.W. to N.E. N.E. to S.W. 8.E. to N.W, N,W. to S.W. 8.W. to W. Esti- mated Force. Weatreb. A,II, 0-6 2-5 6-4 4-3 2-6 4-1 5-6 0-5 2-7 7 6-0 0-1 1-4 3-1 0-2 1-6 0-2 4-1 1-0 1-3 0-4 4-3 3-1 1-4 6-4 3-1 3-10 10-2 1-2 2-3 4-2 -t. P.M. V.C.O.f. : m.o.c, v.b. vh.f. : b.v.c. ^ ' V.6.C. f. : m.o.c. v.h.c. v.b. e.fi.c. v.b.c. : r.m.co. r.m.c.o. r.m.co, : v.b.c. m.c.o. : r.m.c.o. r.m.co, : v.b.co.^i v,b.c : v.b.c,o. vJb.n. v.b.c. : o.c.m, v.b.c. : f, . o.m.c.r. : o.c.b.v. Clouds, accord- ing to Howard's . qoraen- «Iature. Position at Noon. Lat. v.b.c.m. v.b.o.c. v.b.c.m. , m.o.c, v.b.c.m. P'.i.c v.h.a vJb.c, : p.m.o.c, v.m.o.c. : v.b.c. n v.b.c. : v.o.c. v.b. ox. , v.b.c. , *b.m.p.8.r. m.o.c. : v.b.o.c. J v.hx. v.b.o.c m. N.Bi, 0.8. C.K, CK.8.' K.N.8. 03. K. OS. C8.K. 08.K. K.N. 8.0K, N.K. K.CS. CK.CS. OK.S, 08.K, N.CS. K.CK. N.OK. K.N.CK. OK. OS. C8.K. OK.C. ,0K,8. k.C.CK. N.K. K,0K.8. OK.S. K.CK.8. liong. Names of Places. 60 048 60 10 60 21 4 ^ 6 62 il 63 is 03 63 40 66 49 68 69 70 15 71 26 72 32 '2 50 73 20 74 10 75 20 5 25 75 52 76 20 76 34 76.45 97 5 77 30 78 28,75 77 50 77 77 30 76 49 49 50 52 51 51 53 54 55 53 55 56 56 56 67 58 6-0 66 67 70 69 71 71 76 76 61 76 10 30 40 36 50 58 30 50 15 10 50 30 20 40 10 26 40 10 30 5 30 45 40 30 30 30 Cape Farewell. Davis Straits, E. [shore. Cape Desolation. Lichtcnfels. Fiskemaes. Godhaab. Sukkertoppen. Off Riscoll, Godhavn. Off Disco Island. Black Hook, Proven. Uppemivik, Berry Island. Melville Bay, Melville Bay, Melville Bay, Cap^ York. C. Dudley Diggs, Wolstenholme Snd. Booth Sound. Whale Sound, Cape Saumarcz. Smith Sound. Top Baffin Bay, Cape Isabella. Cape Mowat. Jones' Sound. - .;■ Aurora in yellow „/Ji rT* ''^' "/ ice encountered off Capes Farewell and Desolati6n. nd reddish coruscations on the western sky, extending near the zenith, \toI:&f3dt oTttsZt- ^'"^^^^'^ '^' '^'^''^ «^ - --- - - ^^'^^^ f,^«J^^e8 most abundant; often heard crumbling to pieces. " - tt One hundred and eighty icebergs, on a semicircle of twelve mile* »£ J^argc extent of open water ; v nry fry i<'elR>rOT, I :\ ,i ' .i'i m ■I ] i^r ¥: \- -wr - -pi iS " /i ^m... ft' !■' i 202 APPENDIX. Abmbac* of the Meteoroluoical Journal kept on board the Discovery Ship I84be^ Capt. Inglepield, R.N., September, 1852.— Davis Straits, ^c Dates. ^ '4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 •12 13 14 +15 16 '.17. 18 19 20 . 521- 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 Means standard Borometor, corrected for capillary actioui and reduced to 32° Fuhreuhuit. Max. Min, In. 29 -73 •68 :74 •74 •63 •63 •86 30 02 29-97 •96 3019 •20 29 30 30 •98 •98 •98 '•28 •29 •85 •87 •74 •77 •83 •98 •82 •90 •03 •79 •84' •16 •21 Id. 29 45 •45 •62 ""62 •68 •66 •66 •89 •77 •78 30 02 29 11 •88 •56 •67 30 05 29-95 •84 •74 •64 •71 •79 ■87 ■28 18 •81 68 61 96 30 04 Mean. In. 29-65 •51 •69 •71 •60 •97 •84 •86 go 12 •13 29-94 •79 •73 30-20 •15 29 87 •80 •67 •75 •81 •92 •47 •95 •76 •68 30 02 12 Reading of the Thermometer In the Shade at 8 A.M. 6 A.I(. ^ !Nooii 8 A.M. 1 P.M. 28 28 24 27 24 23 22 22 25 24 21 26 27 .28 S7 28 30 24 29 24 25 26 28' 30 32 34 88 39 35 31 27 . 28 28 28 25 24 23 26 28 24 22 26 28 30 27 29 30 24 29 25 24 26 28 31 32 34 38 39 34 82 28 '29 29 28 26 24 24 28 29 26 26 27 26 30 30 30 30 26 30 26 26 26 28 32 32 36 38 39 32 32 26 29 32 29 25 25 27 29 29 26 26 27 29 80 29 32 30 27 30 26 26 30 29 32 32 34 38 38 34 32 28 29 31 30 ■ 25 24 27 29 26 26 26 28 29 27 30 81 30 27 30 26 26 31 31 32 31 35 38 38 34 32 6 P.M. 11 Sea Water at Surface. 9 Mid- g| Mean Density ■.M. niirht S i 2"'>yl It ,. SS Tem.| 60° Falvr. 27 27 29 261 28 30 .24 24 26 25 26 23 26 28 26 28 30 29 29 31 25 26 26 30 30 32 ?1 37 89 38 34 31 28 26 24 24 24 24 25 22 26 28 27 28 30 30 28| 31 24 25 26 28 30 ,32 32 37 39 38 34 30 28 27 -6 29 6 25 28 29 6 28 28-530 26 27 9 30 -5 24,24 -6 29 1 22 23 7 29 2l'24-728-4 24;26 8 29 24 26 6 29 2224 |29 26:24 429 6 28,27 •2'30 26 27 3 30 2828 6 30 292'9 |30 30 29 8 30 25,29 {30 30 27 6 31 6 24'27 3 32 5 27,25 e^l 25 25 6:30 28:28 •1;31- -6 30 29 2 32 32'31 6,32 34|32 32 1 38 35 6 33 6 39;38 •6,34 36,38 |34 3233 633 1 30'31233 6 1 0235 1 0-22 1024 1 •024 .10215 1 0235 1024 T 0235 0235 •024 •024 •024 024 1 0236 1-0235 1024 1 1 1 1 1 1 024 ■0235 •023 ■023 •023 023 ■1 0235 1 0235 1 024 1024 1024 1 ^024 1024 1 0245 • Cliohelicina almost the only creature found in.the water ; hatdly any Algm. + Bivalvea and Oasteropods, tpgether with B^diata and Cnuitaceam. (Saduria, Idotea. £ranga»^&o.,) occ» at the muddy bott6m. 1^ 18 fathoms; Chrodito also found; Alga extremely, -arc. ^oUeymokes and loons during, but not abundant, rotgfis often seen at the ' middle ice/ r t Ivory gulls abundant at the ' middle ice/ but rarely coming to either side of the Straits. •1 2 3 4 6 6 -^7 8 J9 10 11 §12 13 14 16 16 17 18 19 20 "21 22 23 24 . 25 26 27 28 ++29 30 Means A ri^ X ■ ; ■■'-■ ^^-^ 'm-: . ■ ■ i ■» , 1 t t ■ '-^i£ -' -. " ... -it * > • / [E DiSCOVEBV I Straits, Sfc. Sea Water at Hurfuce. Mean Density D'lilyl at ,. Tern. 160° Fuhr. 1 "■ 29-6 10235 29 -t 1 022 30 1 024 30 fi 1 024 29 1 .10215 29 1 0235 28-4 1024 29 T 0235 29 1 0235 29 1 024 • 29-6 1024 30 1024 30 1 024 30 1 0236 30 1-0235 30 1024 30 1 024 31-6 1 0235 32-6 1023 31 1 023 30 1 023 31-6 1023 32 ■10235 32 1 0235 32 1 1 024 33-6 1024 U 1024 U 1 ^024 J3 1 1024 J3-6 1 0245 Igce. iuria, Jdotea, found; Alga i often Been at of the Straits. f M£T£OROLOOY. 203 Abotbact of thi^Moteorolooical Journal kept on boabd the Discovery ' Ship Isabel, Capt. Inglep«eld, R.N., September, l852.~Davis Straits, Sfc. % « Dates. WiNPS. Direction. •1 2 3 4 6 6 +7 8 J9 10 11 §12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 ••21 22 23 . 25 26 27 28 tt29 30 Epti mated Force, Means W.N.W. 8.8. W. N.W. S.E. to N.W. N.W. NW. BS.E. EN.E E to N.W. N.W. tow. W. to 8. 3. to 8.E. .S.E. to N. N. to S.E. N^ to {T.W. N. and S.E. S.S.E. S.E. and N.,^. N.W. and S.E. N.W. N.W. and S.E. NORTH. W. to S.E. 8.E. S.E. to W. S,8.B. l^^ . 8.8.B. ^'^ a.8.E. 8.8.E., VBLE. N. to W. .Weather. P.M. 5-6 3-4 0-2 1-3 U-5 3-1 1-5 5-7 7-3 2-4 4-1 1-6 b-1 1-3 1-3 1-4 7-4 4-1-3 2-9 9-4 3-3 4-6 6-9 9-11 10-8 10-6 11-8 ■U-9 6-1 lr2 q m.o.c.B.p. p.8.0. : P.6.C. ?'6e. v.b.o.o. v.bc. v.b.c. m.o.c.a. : v.b.c. vh.n. : v.b.c. ' v.bc. v.b.c. : v.o.c. V.B.p, v.b.c. 0.8. v.b.o.c. 0.8. v.b.c. g.v.o.c, Clouds, accord- ing to Howard's ,nomen- c]ature: Position at Noon. lAt. V.1).C. q.t-ap.q, m.o.s.c. g-o^. • p.a.v. ■ V.o.c. v.b.c. v.h.a. .o.c p.8. » o,«.q. g V.B.c.p.B. v.b.o c. v.h.e. : v.o.c. v.o.c. : »,6.c. v.b.c. : o.«. o.a.jp.v. r.p.q. : v.b.c. e.r.q.' : .v.o.c. o.c.r.q. w.fi.p. : o.c. v.b.c. : v.b.o.c. K.N. CK.S. CR.S. K.N. K. KS.K. CK.K.S. K.C8. K.CS. CK.S. CK.N. CK.N. •N.K. K8.N. K3. CS.CK. K- KS. K. K.KH. .KS.K. C.KS. OK.S. K.'' K.S. K.CS. J'; > K.CK. ' K. i— 76 75 74 74 74 Long. 74 30 74 43 74 20lyo Names of Places. 74 20 73 68 74 8 73 55 ?3 39 72 30 71 25 71 71 71 71 71 71 71 .69 69 70 88 83 81 78 6 75 2- 70 69 69 68 65 62 61 61 62 53 57 72 >1 >1 Density at 60" Pahr. •0246 •0245 0245 •0245 0245 024 ■024 024 •024 ■024 •0235 0235 1025 1025 1 0255 1025 1*0255 0255 •026 ■0265 1 -0265 •0265 •0265 •026 •0265 ■0265 •2 1 0265 •0265 •0266 •0265 -0265 Eehinodenm t profusion in seberg action. to alight on .METEOROLOGY. .r— 205 Abstract OF the Meteorolooi^al Journal kept ok board the Discoverv Ship Isabel, Capt. Inolepield, R.N., October, m2.-Davis Straits. DateSi •1 2 3 4 5 H 7 8 9 10 11 tl2 13 14 16 16 17 18 19 20 §21 22 23 2f 25 26 27 28 29 30 "31 Means Winds. Direction. Esti- mated Fence. N.B. to N.W. 8. to N.K. E,N.E. E.N.E. to S.E. 8. tos.w: - 8.W. to B.iB. &E. to S.W. 8.W. to 8. •B.8.W. 8.W. to N. N.B. ir.N.E. Variable, e. vabiable, 8.w, VjUIIABLE, 8.W. 8.W. to E. E. to N.W, N.W, ' N.W. K.N.W. W.N.W. K.W. N.W. WJf.W. W.K.W. irjr.E. b.s.e! E. E.S.B* B.&E. E.N.B. 8-1 1-2 3-9 8-6-9 9-3 4-6 9-1^ 10-3*^ 2-6 i-6-1 3-9 10-11 8-2 4-7 7-5 2-9 9-SM 9-7-9 8-6 6-8 8-7 6-4 6-6 6-7 9-7 9-4 4-6 ^6 ^-10 9-10 10-7 WiEATHER A.M. CIoui acco: iug to Howard's nomen- clature. position at Noon. v.b.c.q, : v.fi.c. v.b.c. : v.b.c. v.b. : v.b. v.b. : v.o.r. o.r.d.ia. v.b.c. Vid.r.g.m. v.b.cq.p.' v.b.c.8. : v.b.c.q, v.b.c.q. : v.ft.c. ■ v.b.c. : v.b.cq.j v.b.c.q.p.r.&o. o.m.d,r. : V.b,c. v.b.c.q.p.r.8. ▼.bx.q.p.r.8. ».6a : v.b.c.q, o,s.p.r.g.v.h. v.b.c.q.p.8.h. v.b.c.q.p.8.h, v.b.c.p.8.h. v.b.c.q.p.h.r. T.b.c.q.p,r. v.b.c.p.r. v.b.c.p.r.0. v.b.c.r.p.q. r.p.q. : vit.c. v,b.c. v.b.c. : v.b. *- ^-»- appi.^S*' ""' ^^•"P^'**"" ;f *>•« sea decrease, „ the west side^of the Stmits ia § Weather exceedingly disturbed. Aurora Borealis frequently most brilliant. Towards the end of this month easterly winds hav^ pr^vail^ «, ,„ nnnnn.1 ovf pM ■.n:: .* « ...*••.'■ -nrr ***?. ■.^■7.i\ ■ /? 20S3 I APPENDIX. ,-/ :Abstiiact OF trb M^eor^i^mical Journal kept on board the Disco tery Ship Isabel, Cap* JtoctEFiELD, R.N., November, 1852.~-Nbrth Atlantic. Dates. j>ineter, cor^ted forjbapillaiy action, and iWuMd/to Si" FahteotieiL Reading of the Thermometer in the Shade at Means In. 1 28-78 2 29 12 3 •23 4 •62 5 •61 6 •35 7 •31 8 •86 9 30 06 10 04 11 29^86 12 •83 13 •79 14 •62 15 •33 16 28-98 17 -93 19 29-46 19 .67 20 •51 21 22 -25 -24 ^It'v It may be right to observe here, that the density of the sea.^fu given in this column of the abstract, is at best but a near approximation. Through the kindness of Professor Pyfe, of King's College, Aberdeen, at the conclusion of the voyage, I ascertained that the instrumept by which the observations were made had an error of about -OOIS, which requires tff be added uniformly to the whole series. 1 did not, however, deem it necessary to apply this correction, for the reason that the difference thus effected in the observations would not in the slightest degree affect the chief feature to be noticed, namely, the extremely regular manner Bt , t e mp e retuf w bolow 89 * witt c t h e pr » cipiUti o n p f t)i e ..x Dates. 1 2 •S 4 ts J6 f 8 9 §10 11 12 13 "14 16 16 18 V 19 20 S. 21 8. 22 ■ Means . s- , 1 saline ingredients of sea-water. 't ■«■-;.■ ■- E Discovery h Atlant'c. 8eaWate-at Surface. Mean DaUy Tern. Den lity al ' 66<> I ihr. n this column 18 of Professor ined that the vhich requires )• to apply this uld not in the igular manner ittti o n p f , ^ METEOUOLOOY. 207 fc*BE^ Caw, taLEHELD, RN., November, 18«2._JVbr« Mhntic. Dates. Winds. Direction. 1 2 4 t5 i 8 9 §10 11 12 13 "14 16 16 1^ ,18 19 20 21 22 Means N.W. to S.W. aw. S. td S.E. 8.&B. 8.W. &E. to S.W. ■ w. N.W. V N: to N.E. N.K.E. , £s.E. E.S.E. B.S.E. «^' . VBtK, K. VBLE., 8.R 8. to W. ' w. to a aw. to aE. aw. to at NOBTH. Esti- mated Force. N.E. to N.w/14-2-8 8-5 6-9 9-3 3-11 8-4 •7-8 6-8 6-8 8-6 6-8 8-9 8-4 ^-8 10-a 6-1 1-6 7 7-6 6-3 3-1 4-7 Weather. A.M. P.M. m. V- i{; .O.r. : v.b.c.q.p. v.b.c.q.p. : ».i.c. v.b.c.l.g^.q. v.o.c.q.p.r. »».v.b.c.r.p.q. - ».6.c.l.m.r.o. v.b. : c.r.m.! v.b.c.r.p.q. ,, v.b.c.p.q.r. v.b.c.q.p. v.l).c. : v.o.c. v.b.e. : v.b.c.q.p. i'.b.c. : q.m.r. m,o.r, . m.o.r, \ m.o.d. . m;b.d.r. : v.b.c. v.b.c. v.b.c. «.b. : ni.ar. m.ftr. in.o.c. : v.b.c.. Cloudsi accord- ing to Howard's nomen- clature. Posittoh at Noon. K.C. K. CK.K. K.C.N. K.S. K.N. K.ir. CK.N. K.N. K.N. K.C.N. ,K.C.N. K.N. Ut. 68 64 58 62 58 56 59 I^nsr- Names of Places. "C 20 31 16 46 10 6 ^8 [In the east side of the N. Atlantic '^ CK. CS.CK. cacK. aca K. Dunnet Head. (In Stromness har- boun Hani Sound. Peterhead Bay. Bell Roclc. Frith of Forth. St. Margarets Hope. Off Bass Island. Flamborough Head, Dudgeon L. Off Winterton. Thames Sea-Reach. / murly1.terIhel1SL^n^^^^ ''""»"«•" '""^ -'*''«™ »«» -eBtemW PeculUr ' of the Frith ^oR f»rt hent.l6Mina 'h<;; "ma "n ;yeo VT nU'aLd a """ "" '"""""^''^de ^w- ■i I '.':!.« i il -TT. 'Mm .'208 APPENDIX. A Tabids, shewino the indications of the Standard BABOMETtat, and op TWO AnEBOID BABOldftXBS, EVERY DaY AT KoON, DUBINO THE MONTH OF SeMehbeb. ^ ■ ~, Difference, as observed, , Aneroid Bannneiers. between the Btant^uxl and Datea the Aneroids. Bar. Ther^ 691% Ther. 4T84. Tber. 5918. 4784. Inches. O Inches. o Inches. O Inches. Inches. 1 29-62 52 29 65 49 29 71 53 + 03 + -09 2 •64 72 '68 68. •63 72 + 04 + -09 3 •83 78 •86 74. •91 78 + 03 + 08 4 •83 66. •82 60 •91 66 - 01 + •OS 5 ■71 70 •74 68 -78 72 »+ 03 + -07 6 •67 78 •71 76 •75 80 + 04 + -08 7 •85 70 •92 63 •96 68 + ^07 * 11 8 30 04 51 30-06 47' 30 10 52 -, + -02 •+ •06 9 . 29-88 45 29 93 42 29-96 45 V -05 i+ 05 10 ■82 52 •93 46 •96 48 + 01 + -14 11 30 18 46 30 26 40 80 28 43 + 07 + -10 12 •18 55 •26 49 •28 61 + •OS + •lO 13 29.97 55 •01 52 •06 64 + -04 + •OS 14 •87 70 •01 67 < •06 70 + 04 ' + -08 15 •80 66 29-84 58 29-87 62 + ^04 + 07 16 80 -35 77 30*40 76 30 44 78 + '05 + -09 17 •22 66 •26 61 -80 54 + -04 + 08 18 29 90 67 . 29-96 51 -00 64 + 06 + 10 19 •87 66 •93 62 29-96 64 + 06 . + -09 20' •67 47 -72 42 •76 45 + 06 + 09 21 ^ -77 43 ■81 44 '86 46 + 04 + •og 22 / ^87 56 ■92 '51 •96 53 + 05 + ^09 23 30 00 51 80 03 46 30 06 45 + 03 + 06 24 29-78 54 29-81 60 29 84 52 + 03 •*■ 06 26 •20 43 •24 ' 40 •27 41 + -04 + 07 26 30 06 41 ■98 38 30 04 35 - 08 - -02 27 29-79 44 ■79 48 29-83 46«' •00 +"^04 28 •67 46 ■63 42 , -67 48 - 04 •00 29 30 04 51 30 08 49 8(r-12 43 + 04 ^ + -08 30 •26 67 •27 62 -22 67 + -02 + 03 NoTB.*-The two lAneroida (Dent's) were placed, one on each side of tlje Standard Barometer, Ibotit twoi feet above the level of the sea. They ranged from 27 -50 to 31, and had .^r^ of wine th^^rmometers. The observations are uncorrected, it being unneccseaiy for mere comparison toJfgiter into such minute detail. t ■' f^-^ i%< (ETtR, AKD OF 3 THE MONTH c6, as observed. :he Standard and Aneroids. 4784. Inches. + -09 + •09 + •08 + ■08 + •07 + •08 (* •11 + •06 i+ •05 + •14 1+ •10 + •10 + •08 + •08 + ■07 + •09 + •08 + •10 + •09 + •09 + •09 + •09 + •06 + •06 + ■07 — •02 +'^ ■04 •00 + ■08 + •03 ' tl)e Standard ■50 to 31, and ng unneccseaiy PROCEEDINfiS OF CO]|([MANDER E. A. INGLEFIELDrR. N., f:OUMANDING THE PRIVATK SCEKW STEAM. VESSEL ISABEL, ON A VOYAGE OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. ^from Commander hghfieU, R.N., to tik Secretary I of the Admiralty. 9, Portsea-place, Connaught-square, ^ ' 21 June, 1852. The Isabel screw schooner, of 170 tons, and thirty- horse power, doubled, fitted and provisioned for a five years cruise, having, through the failure of Captain. Beatson's intended expedition, been thrown upon t^ ~h«,ds of Lady FrankUn, and that lady having Jde offer to me of her vessel (since the reply of theif Lord! ships) on the condition that I should carrv her bv whatever route may appear most likely to obtain some information of the missing expedition, I beg tolTy before you, for the information of my Lords Commis^ aioners of the Admiralty, this proposal ; and. First, to solicit their Lordships' approval and pennis- sion to accept her Ladyship's offer, and to gr^t me leave of absence for that purpose. ^ ; Secondly, to petition; that should their Loidships be disposed to approve the undertaking, they wiU grant me such^assistance, to be paid for by myself, which the / ■/ \ / . / * f • t 1 »' \ 1 -■ ■;♦ « * 1 " 1 «# ». ' ; » 210 •f-T» C0URE8P0NDEN0K JDockyard at Woelwich xiould immediately supply towards some few internal' arrangements still required to eomplete" her, and Which, if done at "a priyate yard, might occasion a prejudicial delay. ^Briefly, my views in Undertaking this expedition are, : to accomplish a perfect examination ^f the west coast / of Baffin Bay and Labrador ; and the seai^ou, from recent — ' accounts from Q»pehhagen, having every appearance of . being, favourable, I am most desirous to lose no time in ' visiting that coa^t, from which, if the story- of the brig . Renovation is to be credited, those icebqrgs pi'obably drifted, on which the vessels were- seen, and thousfh sudi ships may not be.those of Sii* John Franklin's squadron^ the cause of humi»nity Mil bq*furthered as much, by ' ■ \ erfdeavouring to assist their crews, as those of Her 'IMIijesty'^ exjJoring vessels.* . , - v. Notwithstritading my own feelings, and that 6f most Arctic yoyiigers well qualified to express their convic- ttions as to the'fate of Sir John Franklin and his gallant - f comrades, I cannot allow myself io undertake the -' • enterprise, excepting^ith fhe full and entire approval of thfe Board of Adnjiralty ; for having six times volun-' teered for Arctic service, and being still most anxiously looking for either promotion or Employment, I am very unwilling to place myself out of the reach of their . Lordships; but as .'it' is the determination of Lady ' Franklin to send tjus vessel in any case, my own^SSS>^^ guine hopes aS to tffe safety of Sir John, together with ^ the earnest desire to devote myself to the search (though - at my own expense' for the wages of the crew, and , without any chance of remuneration); all these com- Abine and incline me to accept the offef rather than it should be said no officer was to .be found who would V • • • » J *;-.'■ S \ n ired apd, are, oast jent e of 3 in. brig'. iWy iii(^b ron^ by> tfer (lost vic- lant' the iVal :un-' Jsly ery keir ady •ii- \^r ,:\ :' A^, tf Wmi THE ADMIRalt\- 211 ^ith ugh and )m- I it uld immediatoJvt- **'„;*'? ""^^^tood the vSssel wUl be- ' bTToot? "^ W«n to .o.„e whaling ca^t^in, ^ho might ^ IJ h InT "" "^"•'^ h«rdy and «,t*pri8ing than^ . any^ his felio^ of Her Majesty's Navy. *^ \ " I ani, &c.,* (feigned). ,E.A. INGLEFIELD, ■ : Commander, y . J Commander "Inglefielily . ■ /• '^ . - ( ^' •- ^r,. ---.. .„ j^„„, ia«^iiig tiK cqmmanCf of the- ^' Isafeel" / ^ ^orew schoonei;, befoiging ,t6 Lady, Fmrildin, ^ J ^' ' view to proceed to thePoW regies in si ^t^^ ^.ssing expedition iindA' Sir JohnFmhklin;Xd I ^ comman(?ed to acquaint you, that their Lordkiip* ha>,e "' ' . no objection- to your taking, commiUid of the-Ves^i / najned^f you should thinkWoper to be repaid. . * :^:. -^ _ (Signed)^ J,H^HXT,_-:^:. '•■• , '■; - Y,.-.. ; ^ ' ■ ■■■ , JPro. Sect ' % ' » > j»' '- V • Hi J^ •ill' s ' ^ .1 ♦f^T* ^"^i^ •*. ;^- ■\ ■/■. r I 212 ' \ ~ ■• CORRESPONDENCE •Letter frrnn Mr.' J. H. Hay (for the Secretary of the Admiralty) to the Commodore Superintendent of Wpol- 'wich Dockyard. '' \ '■ . . . Admiralty, 22r June, 1852. Commodore «Superint'endent, Woolwich,\ . : Commander fnglefield having applied to my Lords for permission for any repairs or fittings that may be required to tl^e Isabel screw schooner, to be\made good at Woolwich Pockyard, my Jjords have b^ pleased to consent to the request, on the understandii that the expense thereof be repaid; , ♦ I am, &c., ' ^- (Signed) J. H. Hav, ' ' Pro. Sec. \ letter from Commander Inglefield to the Setretary of the Admiralty. „ Screw Discovery Vessel, Isabel, oflF the Nore, Sir, 5 July, 1852. Having left Greenhith«Hi|||jt^w of the Lightning, I cannot take my departure without once more expres- sing my sincere gratitude to my Lords Commissioners - of the Admiralty for the invaluQpble assistance ^I have received at Her Majesty's Dockyard at Woolwich ; and I feel, moreover, that it would be unbecoming of me to leave on^the adventurous voyage I am commencing, without giving their Lordships a short outline of my intended nmte. gj I hope to reach the northern extremity of Baffin Bay, touching only at Holsteinburg, without any further *:r> K 1 "W^ -0 X- ^■fe: the ool- 52*. WH I. ■l ore, ing» res- nera • lave and e to ing, my 8ay, ther Bel i ■ #. W- WITH TUK ADMIRALTY. \ 213 bu!ln m" it^ ^ "^^ ^"'^ •" '''^''S MelviIl\Bay ; but shoidd I be disappointed in obtaining a sufficiWy lugh ^tjtude thi« season to examine SnUth and j\js Sr ;/S *^" «^«- (^f.P-«*i-We) to th, west TIL 1 ^ f " ^^' *"^ commence an examinatioV sputltwird .along that shore; I shaU endeavour tl i taii^ this, will hope to communicate with Sir Edward let across Ae land from. Jones Sound, have once liiore to request you will oflfer their Lord- .hips my Sincere thanks for their assistance, and express oy earnest hope that, te by t^eir Lordships' letter to me, in er that it was only on account -of, there being no available vessel that they refused my request to be towed .eyond Peterhead, I .nay still triik their Lordships will .ermrt the Lightning to^take me some smaU distance ^ipthe westward, as to Buch a^ incalculably valuable jiid I may thas impute the whole success of my under- aking, for the lateness of the season otherwise might Ijrevent my doing morethis year thdh entering the L. :?■■ •• lam, &c, ';■ '/fi^- ,' < ' , '. (Sighed) , E. A. lijGLEFIELD. t -C^ ,*i ' Qpmma^der ..a ♦ * Si-, Letter from th^ Secretary of the Admiralty to Cbmmander tnglefield. N ■/■■ x^- • I ." :%..:..^, ' . • V .'►1 Admiralty, 7 July3852, With reference ^oyouflptter of the 5th instance, miuesting that Hei* Majesty's steam vessel, Light- **H / 1 ■4 214 COKKUSI'ONDENCfi " 1 . rning, may be ordered to tow tlie Isabel beyond Peterhead, I am to acquaint you that they cannot pom- ply with ybur request. \ ' " \/ 1 am^&c, (3igited) A. STAFFOltp. < Letter from Commander Inglejield to the Secretary ' of ~i . . ■ . y the Admiralty. ' >;. Screw Discovery. Vessel, Isabel, 12 August, 1852. Goodhaven, Disko, Greenland. Sir^'' - ■■: :" . :•■■■-. ^The assistance I have received in so many ways 'from tjie Board of Admiralty, in equipping my little vessel for her Arctic voyagei, induces me^to suppose their Lordships will be pleased to learn I have so far advanced on my voyage, and that the squadron under Sit Edward Belcher passed this port yen the 12th of June, having left it on the 10th, and fii^ding the Waigatt Passage^ blocked with ice, returned' dput Ward to take the open ^ I shall sail in a few hours, having o^ly p^tinto Good- haven to make good «pme losses sustained in a gale off Farewell.''.. ;;. ,. ' ■^-^•'^■■' . t \ . . ,v- I am now (from the favourable Appearance of the, season, and the opinion of those here, as to the state of the ice. northward), determined upon proceeding direct $0 Smith Sound. .»./ - ■ ■■■■■ ■■'•'■. ' ". ■... .,■■■''/ - ■..••< ■■■m'.. ' } -S. '■ -v.. A " -^VV. :■ ■ : , ^ No I i < ■ 2-15 J WITH tuE- admiraltV: Melvi He Bay, ,t i8 presumed that they hjwe been sue ' ce«BfuI m leaking an eariy north pasHa^. '^''^'^^ ■ ' I am, &c., . - > ' V (Signed) ^ E. A. INGLEFIEL1>, -L -L , ' Commander, k.nV ' \j letter fromiJonunml^rJ^Mid.to 1/ie Se^ar^ of i^eH (^essel -Isabel, t/te Admira. * ' -> Screw Di off Cape Adair,' West jpoast of Baffin Bav ^^^' 15 September,. 1852. ' :' li^T!?^ ^'"^^ my last con^munication to you, cdm- pitted that part of my voyage in which I undertook the examination ^f the northern. extremity of Baffin Bay in search of the missing vessels under the command of , Sir John Franklin, and presuming upon the interest which my Lords Commissioners of thc^ Admiralty have 1.x "^f^ «^P^O'^t»«a of those a«i^e adjacent shores, 1 take Advantage of a vessel bound to England to acquaint their Lordships of my discoveries in those hi> :4\. y 216 CORUESfONDENCE * • to you, I.procecidecl to UpiKjrnivik, there to obtain an Interpreter, and purchase dogs; the fonper could not be procured, the latter was readily supplied me. 3. From Uppernivik I proceeded northward^ cross- sing Melville Bay with little difficulty. At Cape York I passed tbtough a great quantity of loose ice, composed of large. bergs and floe pieces; the weather, however, w'ais .sufficiently easy to admit of my steaming through, and on the momuig of the 22nd of August I reached the great glaciA" of Petowak. Bpcalmed off this gigantic icfe formation, which extends for upwards of four miles inland and a mile to seaward, with a smooth unbroken sloping surface, I got so closely|n that voices were heard shouting from the beach, aii^ spon natives were descried coming down the face of |he glacier and two small ravines adjoining. On proceeding to the shore, with some difficulty in" getting through the young bay ice, which had commenced rapidly to form, I reached a saiidy cove, where after a little delay in calming^ the apprehensions of the Esquimaux by signs and a few presents, I endeavoured to obtain from them information as to the position of north Oinenak, and if possible a pilot. A woman, who appeared more intel- ligent than the , jest of the party, drew upon the snow an outline of the coast and the position .of the settlement known now as the reputed scene of the murder of Franklin and his people, by the statement of Adam Beck. These people seemed the very opposite extreme of those seen last year at Cape York; they are robust, strong, healthy individuals, and well supplied ^ with children ; they impressed me with a notion thait they had not before seen Europeans : their im%ioderate * lighter when I had assured them of our good intent, # V x / '\ WITH THE ADMIRALTY. 21 led me to this ^ and surprise at our clothing, boats, &c., conviction. » -*v. •■ . S 4. Sjiiling northward, I reached Cape Athol on the mormng of the 23rd, and felling calm, I took advantage of that day to steam right round the Bay, within pistol- shot of the shore^ 5. The smlement of N. Omenak,whichI readily found m a deep bight on the north side, of Wolstenholrae Sound, was deserted, but evidently only for the season, as the store of blubber, winter clothing, and flesh which I discovered in my search for traces of the missin.^ ■ vessels, I think, proved. Every great hut and store*^ house was closely overhauled, and a large heap of heavy stones, apparently without any use, was puUeii down, and a foot deep dug into the frozen earth ; tlhe pile con- sisted of bones of seals, walrus, whale, birds, and fish, but no trace of anything European could be discovered. I may add that I was induced to examine this cairn from the statement of Mr. Abernethy, my chief mate, who was in the same vessel with Adam Beck when he related that the bones of the murdered crew were con- cealed in ^ cairn of this description. No traces dis- covered, and some observations made to fix more correctly the position of Wolstenhohne and Sautfders Island with that of two others before unnoticed, and ^ three incorrectly laid down, off the entrance of Gran- ville Bay ; I proceeded against a heavy gale froin the N.W. (which brought vast quantities of ice to, the southward), towards Cape Parry, and on the aCter^Jpn of the 25th, after having been blown back three times we entered Whide Sound. y V * 6. Twenty-five miles inside this opening in the coast, a settlement of natives was observed and visited; J, -i n. :i • 'S ti 1 ? i' ^ ms COBHESl'ONUENCK ^ \ '4. remarked the some fear afour approacii, but like means mlt^tcd as previously,, soon allayed their apprehensions. A mile from the apot.wjjere I landed we found the summer habitations of these people, whuTw^Je asstrpng, healthy, and vigorous as any I have sfeen on the coast ; an ample store of blubber and flesh, laid by in their winter under-ground Novels, proved that wantj^aa, for this season at least, unknown to Aem. ■ —^r^ ■% 7. Neither here nor at Petowak were kyaks. seen, r but numerous dogs and Jsledges, son^wlmt different in form to those obsprved s0uth ward. ' a. A knife wKich I pbtained, with «B. Wilion, cast* steel," on the blade, and having been apparently a* table-knifoi but mounted i^ a rude ivory handle, made from the tooth of a sea unicorn, an axe tvithout mark, a tin canister, and several pieces of steel curiously con- verted into a knife, with some rope, were the onfy articloB 1 observed of European manufacture, but I did not attach much importance to them, as the nomadic^ habits of the natives on this coast may easily account for the manner in which they may have been acquiied. 8. Before returning to the boat, I ascended an eminence of nearly 1000 feet, and from its summit beheid tlmt the ntoth side of the Sound >vds composed of a group of islands, some of considerable dimensions. A riipitl sketch made on the si)ot will convey sonfe notion of the appearance of the Sound i^t this point. .'' ■■ > — y'\. ■■■.' 10. On returning to my vessel at 12 p.m., which I found at some distance from where I left her, (owing to ' her having struck heavily twice on a sunken rock in*the middle of the bight), I steered away on a course to pass . out on the north side of the largest island, and Between ■I-- * ^ ■^ *? #; ^Jw- WITII TIIK ADMIRALTY. 219 that and a aifOfei^ne; to theflc two islands I have presumed to give the names of his Grace the First Lord, and Sir Thomas Herbert; the next was caUed l^yrconnel Island. 11. In the much surpri at least on 't- away to th beautifully Have definedi'th; |nt one mile and a-half astern, I,waa yi two small openings (so marked P be extensive inlets, opening and "north-eastward; tfie sky the rising sun, would re^Iily — i^thpugh as far as the eye could reacl*, an unbroken horizon met the gaze, and no sicni of ice or obstructibn into an-open strait or inland s^ . could be detected. , .This inlet ^ named after Sir Roderick Murchison. V ^^2. Notl»i^j^t the sense of my «iuty to Lady l-mnkhr prevented my searching the cojirse of this tair strait, through which, owing to a cali^ tkt occurred ?it 4 a.m., I estimated the current to be Wting eaat- Ward 3^ miles an hour. ■ z. 13. No trteestevitig bera^et mth of the missinff -expedition, I felt that Franklin was no longer to be sought for here, and thus I deterfij||to take advan- tage of the evidently open state ^TWe ice, and dash boldly at once to the northward, in the direction of Smith SoundJ ^^14. Cape Alexander I reached at midnight of the 26th, rounding it lAider saU and steam within half musket shot of the shore, having a depth of 145 fathoms, sand and small broken shells. ' - We narrowhr escaped, falling on board pf a large ice- berg, owing to the wind heading us round the point. JVothitig resembling a cairn could be detected on eUher this h(^dland or a curiously shaped island on the south z^. / ■'i^ ^/ .y~~- I it' >^ / : 1 , \ '€■; 4\ , t' ■"• — r I' \ IfX- ■ 4-. ■ I 220 COUUESPONDENCE • side of it ; for though midnightyit was as light as day, and the sun was just gilding the northern sky behind the extreme nort^ point, which in honour to His Boyal Highness' birthday I named Cape Albert We had no sooner fairly opened the Sound than I involuntarily exclaimed, this must lead into the great Polynia of the Bu^sians; and as the eye strained forward into the cleat expanse .of apparently open water, which now occupied from seven to eight points of the compass due north of our position, I could not but admit to my own mind that a great se$ was beyond. „^ • ^ ' 1 15. The strait marked so narrow on our charts (by measurement on the morrow) I found to be about thirty-six miles across ; and now I pushed eagerly on to a further view of this noble inlet. 16. The natural snow-clad asp^ect of the bleak cliffs that surround the head of the bay, seemed changed by the presence of a more genial clime, the side of Cape Alexander itself being streaked with bright gr^en grasses and moss, and the neighbouring hills to the northward were black instead of snow-capped, evideritly too of secondary formation, ' >j, • 17. The west coas*t of this new sea which I had now entered, trended jiway to the N. W., as** the Coast grew still more* to the eastward, an^ a high range of mibun- tains, which I named the Prince of Y(a\eB rt^nge, terminated the western shore'^n a bluff,, which I ^Ued Victoria Head. ' ^> -- "* " / 18. Here the outline of coast ceased ; for though I reached on noon of the 27th. latitude 78° ; th^ 28th, peyond Frederick VII. and Victoria. '.i 4 *, > ■ »:■ ^ 7 ■ .1" • -■•-,'*■■ * * V 7^ V , ■■ ,'..*. . - : '^-t:--^,- nnm miiKtrtBiaiiB '\ "Xf^. WITH THE ADMIRALTY. 22L Rat 19. Afdjviceli6ifgi(and loose ice settihg with our- selvesjlto^ the nortliward, at the rate M about three niiles an hour (a current which I detectiSi during the Whole 'of our r^>up the coast from/ Wolstenholme Sound, and wMch seemed to separate itself by an eddy i^to the. Murchison inlet), togkher. with a fast land-flqe, expending about twelve /miles from the western shoire enclosing Cape Iskb^la, were all .the obstructions which, presented them^elVes to our onward course into this great Polar Sea; ^nd had not circum- stances over which I could have no control, and which - I -may perhaps terin providential, defied my further progress, I should have been allured by the prospect before me to penetrate yet further north. 20. Having satisfactorily obtained the latitude at noon, which I called my officers to witness, and by sights for my chronometers at nine, a tolerable longi- tude, my attention was turned towards effecting a landing, the better to observe the variation and dip, whilst a cairn was erecting to mark our visit;, and note that the British Flag was the first to be carried into this unknown sea. By the time'Ahe people had dined, a still further advance had been ijnade, assisted mate- rially by the northerly set, but the breeze had now freshened to a strong gale, and going against the current, had set up a sea that constrained my officers to advise me against attempting to lanjf^n the light short boat we possessed. . • They declared in th^Sr opinion it would be risking the lives of the people, and anxious as I was to put foot on these newly-found shores, I; felt bound to accept their advice, and now^ whilst seekirtg this landing plaoe in a bay to leeward of an island T named after % ■.:; ^ y ' i i i .— -- :^-:/ ■ .( ■■'■ •l^v- ■V/' ~0t , I * 5 '. •*-■ 222 CORRKSPONDENCE ■ \ /,A my friend Lord Hathertoii/a gale had commenced* with such furjr that we were fairly blown out of the strait; and ere six hours elapsed we were hove to in a tempest o«wind and snow (which lasted thirty-six hours) undep a close-reefed fore topsail. / 21. On the morning of the 29th it moderated, and in „ trying to hug the west shore, with the view of exploring its coasts, we were drifjjipd in^ the lee pack, which \girt the western side of the head of Baffin Bay, extending about twenty mile^ to leeward. ^ The slight breeze and hea^ .swells which had set us on, soon placed the ship in^Tmost d^n^^Uus position ; a leak in our boiler had j^Ut the eng^'^for the. |jme fiors (k combat, and I l?egan to contempjate that in a few hours we should Jje firmly fixed in this extensive Observing the rudder splintering;''^! the crushing pressure of the ice', I ordered the boiler to te hastily secured an^ the steam got up, as out last resource, and by God's mercy, after several hours of anxiety and hard labour on the part of all on board, we were^ extriofeted from our difficulties, and steamed out to , seaward. '22. I determined now upon following down the west «oag» as near as I could, to Coboui'g Island and then pasing through Glacier Strait to proceed up Jones bound. '-^4^ This I accomplished, passing up into the Sound on the 31 St of August, and beating against a fresh westerly breeze, assisted by a strong set, reached longi- tude 84°, from whence the coast suddenly turned away in a N.W. direction, the south shore trending rather northerly ; bi|t as far as the eye could scan in ~» west \ / »■ i < — V ;/" -/n d t( sc ill -«r 1 '■»:(.;• •>>« ■—-'■■f^-'r n i iii ii i n iiiiii lu n . / / «• ■"'-*T^,-" ■^X. WITH THE ADMIRALTY. 223 Lonzon no land could be discovered th^.gh .rcat .nas«e^ of ice were driving mpidl^^own. , '= " ^23^^ traq«p of our missing ISunti^.nen could bo , in with thick fo^, accompanied by a stiff gale from the westward, and snowdrift, t^ inhospitable" appeaJce - whidi seemed to defy the foot of^L, nncT to^pro^etlie nipossibihty .of finding shelter for a winter seaso^ hese combined to warn me that prudence dictated our i-eturu andjp4eed, aa no examination could bo made in such thick weather as now set in, the object of my vWt wouW be defeated if Lran blindly on as' far as the ovtT T ''^f^'^ ^«»W admit, I therefbre rai. pver to the south *^re and towards the eastward • r""T\" ''"''^ '' ' ^^"^^ ''^^ P-°t -d bend Y; the eoast,buno^i^,^no mark couldHbeobseiB^ed. ' 24. heveral additi^s and altemtions in the chart were made and passing through the Lady. Anne Strait by m.dmght I was abreast of Cape Parkier. Herl^^' ferintlT ' '"^ Y '^^ pieces upwards of. twln^ fectintruckness and by them hemmed in on every side, withm a, mile of tho diore ^ ^ ' A breeze from tlife N.W. wouff have se^ our fate in all probability for a winter in this pack, ornvreck on Gape Parker, but aidecf by the powfej^l a'mi of t" we succeeded with much laljpur in bJring out, and by noonof the 2nd had secured a good offing a»„onc.st "brash ice" drifting off Cape Horsb^h. " down* 1"'" T^""'^' ^'^"'" '"*^^^'"S "l'«" '"y ^^-rch down the western coast, of Baffin Bay and Labrador, to take advantage of the' still open appearance of the reason to visit Beechey Island, and obtaining, for the inforn,at.on of their Lordships, the most recei^ account! ^ -m y---A. ^ *• r, i 4 ' t ■^^m %: : m . * ■-■; if' " 224 CORRESPONDENCE , « .# of Sir Edward Belches'a expedition, supply him in return with the mail I had brought from England (our latest dates only eight weeks old), andt above < all, 'ap outline of my discoveries and a tracing from my track chart; which,- as his orders na4 refeuence to a part of thc^ coast I had explored, might prove of sqM^ use tohim. .1'- *: _'^., ,:^ ■.^..■-■..", :^-.::..l!':;-. .26. Light adverse Ivinds jp^vented my reaching " Her Majesty's depot ship 'North Star before the morning of the 7th September, when T entered Erebus 1 and Terror Bay, and finding it well open anchored for a few houEs. '^ / 27. From Commander Pullen I obtained much infor- mation relative |p the expedition, but as the Prince Albert had sailed only a fortnight previously, he had little else than duplicates of the despatches forwarded by h?r to charge me with, and as nothing official can ■ be communicated by me that wiir not have appeared in those despatches, I will not intrude farther upon their Lordships' attention than to acquaint them that I am now vigorously prosecuting the search dowil the west shore of Baffin Bay, touching when practicable, and erecting cairns, at night firing guns and throwing up rockets. . * "T 28. I shall hope, under Providence, to reach England without incurring the heavy expense to myself of remaining out for the winter. 29. With this view I return the despatches from Com- ' mander PuUen, but as I cannot forsee what may, befall the ship in the course of our explorations on the dan- gerous coast of Labrador, I deem it my duty to seize this^ opportunity of communicating to jheir Lordships the result of my labours, and I trupt the exertions I -* '^. =^ ■YJ ■^: 4 -;^l uuir 7 ""? ''"" 'W-oval, and set at re,t th^ public .n,„d a« to the possiWyty of finding traces of th J About half only of .ny fuel is expended, owin^. to the stncte* economy, and thus I trust to makin^ careful exarainatfons to the southward " ° ; 30. October 22.-TWfarf had prepared my letter m the expectation oP^„g in with'whalers off H^^e way; hut upon reaching the Hecla and GripeV Bank my progress was arrested by a va.t body of ice, which' appeanng to be toggled on to the shore by a line J ■Peber^s grounded on the shoals, stretched far away, to senwanl, and^.arried me into longitude eu^ ere 1 r;Hrf?ota,vay«outh. Two days and a night n the M at last enabled me to get through. I \ ,91. On the 22nd, xve had run 120 miW fn fK. southward ; but the-moK of the ^fnl'^^Ue L # >n with the most trepiemh^ g^dc (fr,„n the S.E ) I- ever witnessed; for six dayTWe la/to under /st L sad, occasionally .sighting the lind,or„vast bergs drivTn" ' rapidly past us, through the mist and spr^v, fw M^ater being m.vv nearly 6xpe^ded (having pMsed to >/ allowance of Wptmj,er man, and the ship, moreovel much disafilcd, I waa.cnm,v.ll«.i /.„ *u„ .J', *™^«oveK, that pui-po'se.. from the S. W., which lasted till the 10th, and then S J^er^ng to fVesl^n into a still mo.^ violl oTJZ 33. rtefV,re this,^w^ scudded fi,r two days, making ovt^" /, $: \f n ■ V,-. # V: :\ ..... < attempt! V .'•, 'v r- ' :', ::i':l' • , ■- .34. * Having' waijtedtwro dqyfl affter this advice, in th0^ hope- thajt the- weather Aight moderate, I decided u]{:^A retusning to England, and am now on -my home- I ward vo^ge,| having remainfed within |^th6 Arctic Circle exactly two months later th^n the j6J!C|j«dition of last yeai- ; and (having reached it three podftths later) have, .. neve^heless, accomplished (independent of sailing) 1,473 miles (under steam), 'bringing home with me still sixty-six ton9 of fue). • v 'i|> j 35. I cannot speak too highly of 'th^stdvantag^ 6f* thehigh-pnftp8ui»'e e^i'gine, virhich work^ggj^forty pounds > on the square Inch, has given amj te^^ its utility ; no differet i iwBk,worki|)g, though cons'! :he tipper deck had beei irtumltes of Iture alFect- ent fuel, ySth d exposed to 'Wk L V A ,* * i^ r *k . V \&^ ,1^ WITH THE ADMIRALTY. 227 the Weather, aalt-water and/rampKng on for two months previous to its use. / - 36. My large chart heing now finished\vitb the track I "round Baffin Bay, and the discoveries I have made comprising 600 miles of new coast line correctly laid •down,^I do not now enclose the eye-sketch before aUudedto; but shall take the earliest opportunity of waiting on their Lordships with the same, and numerous sketches of the unknown coasts I have explored. . Apologising for intruding, at such length upon the time of my Lords Commissioiiers, '' . ■ *. ■ V I hayle, &c., "- * (Signed) A A. Inglefield, Commander, r.n. ^K Letter from the President hnd Vice-President of the Royal ^^Q^mpMcal Society to his Grace the Duke of Notthumberland. ' ^ . -, ■ '^ • I^oyal Geographical Society, My Lord Duke, . 12 December, 1852. Conscious of the value which geographers and t#e F"^*' ^ytg^Juted to the recent Arctic researches - »,#j^^^^^pPt>^field, B.N., we venture to submit r^ toy8urGi:|ea|0|ce of those services, which may, , we trust,' liov^V the Lords Commiflsioners of the AdAu%lty to proniote i|t (fistinguish^djofficlbr. ,. .i. The new official A^ of ^P^^^^^Lm^ ^- * l^o^'^'nany errors of foAner delin^tion pf the headlands, gulfs, and inlands jjf, Baffin Bay 'hav€ been "corr^ted if: l\ ■ i,. ^ 'a ( •' V i i f ' t i ) I- -i-'^v;:^ ■^. V » » 4 228 CORRESPOKDENCK \ by h,m,and how he ha« oblaineil entirely net? data re«pect.nf. Smith^ound, which go far to settle the • Nief, that Fran^in mH^liave taken the route of VVelUngton Chanael. - Acquainted as wo were witk the very untoward cir. cumstances unde,^ which ComUander Inglefield volun^ teered to take the command J^. the small private vessel ^ the Isabel, and seeing the enei^y with which, in oyercogmg all difficulties, he carried out the wishes of Lady Frankliti^nd the subscribers to the expedition, we might we 1 admire resultf„ which, in the words of v^ ? W ^'""'^^ authoriti^ on sueh a Subject, ^ Edward^Parry, "have placid Commander IngUeld amo^g the most distinguish^ofoj^r Arctic liaviXrs.- Addling your Grace Pand. th6 Board,/in our capacty^mbers of the Kciy^ Geographical feociety', * we consider Wives precluded from fortifying bur,,-, application by Uy reference to ;the 8ervice>^ Cim^ mander Inglefifeld in the ordinary dut% of his^pro- '■' fessional career, but we may stat^ 4hafr« selection of T ^V f """^"'^ ""^ an ;exploring expedil^n was indeed foundted on our knowledge of thy^aracter of those previous services. / . We nfine ourselves, however, to the fact, ihat- expectations founded on that knotvledge have been' more than realize^ by the zeal and ability which he has . displayed, and by the value to science of the results he obtained. \ It is specially, therefore, as geogmph^-s, that we address your Grace and the Board of Admiklty, in the - hop« that as the recent explorations ofl€omfliander > Inglehcid have beeii «ery generally aj')proveili fou will "^ * I'eward an o%er who hascmployed his b(^t enci^ics,' ^ m J- (;•' :>^ 1 7 ■*'. -i^Ss"'" i^ •,' :s«,\- data , the e of cirr . • lun^ ' ssel u in ' 8 of • ion, y-^^ 8 0f ^.^ eld • P8.*' our • ro- Ji ♦ of V »^a8 : V of lat^ ■■■■ ".v^ en .".^ —— — *- las ^ -' 1 -• he ■ 1 .. t' ve • ^f lie - ' M ill." J ir" ■•1*'',' WITH THE ADAI?RALTY. 229 - . \V'ehaye, &c. ,' ,^ (Signed)^ Roderick Murchison, ' .' " . * V l^resident, R..(/. s. . "Egerton Ellesmkkk," . '_ > . V'^e-Rresidein, a. g: s. . ■■^v ■ i . V\^^wKj;.17Debeinber,l852.-_ »WU„"f "'t n"™"^' '■'^'^"S '"•»'" '<» fate of oimin aound, which, as wpTT no ♦!,« r . , k^.p^ved to ^^■::jz?^^,^- »"="■»«. ■" BmI" n """• ** "'"^'' • "'•""''le discovery H any could only just perceive the looming of iC n^^, was supposed to be only a deep fiord, whe^ Jl^ appears to be a „id, pass.gera„d ;„ ^Z dMFfsOfthooontiDentoCGrccDlaiid. « A„.tiht!ll'"* f ""' '5'' "' '■"'"" f'^™''^ Captain Austm from entermg Jones Sound, but whieh seemed i?- ' ■ -I- ff v;^.n■. * *. . ^Ar ll CORRESPONDENCfi ' ' •■ , t J. to him to bfe »nly adeep bay, now turns out to U another gj^^jaJili^ t^e g*eat cluster of fOTrjr ielanga. *^'^-- -^ With respect tqi Commander Ingl^eld's chart, which -.^ <ccomi)lishedwithout the drawback of a single accident; Ijj^'obst^cle l^ng>e©n|tevercom^ by his perse-" , vte^^ energy, aiPevei|^^ai3tem^tion^^^ by.'. ' o,his fiinglenete'of mp^i; altogeTtliff^ng, in "my ^'1 ,»®^^'i?^*'^»^.9W^^>s^,eitra on % « ("Signed). . R. Beaufort. ^.^^ \ . ♦. * x^ L ^ Si A< Vi t ^ 'II ■ ■ r4--- -'Mr- '■■. . « '/ ' 'I ■' '4 • ■. ■_ / - .- * ' rf- ^ ^ WITH THE ADMIRALTY. 231 S Inglefield. * Sir ' ^\ ' , Admiralty, 20 December, 1852.\ With reference to your lettPi- a£ ^K*u a .1 ^last^off Pot^^M-i • •''""^/ettei- ot I5th September John F»„fcli„;„„/j;^;^"«fc«' «««» »? sir with the station at Becohey ICd t """'"■"°'<^«'' , Admralty approve of the .pirit whieh p,„n,ptrf vouin Oft the discoveries vo„ m«^« • Vdrographer, (Signed) •■A W. A. B. H Admiralty, 24 December, 1852. Sir, V;cc ^t^r'||Royal Geogr^hical Society to ./If IP "I- ;.•» " ,s,- \x^ •I 'H± 3. 1. _. « §': 232^CORRESPONDENOK W[TFI THE ADMIRALTY. his Grace the Duke of Northumberland, recommendfn^ Commanded Inglefield for reward for hia services in the Arctic Seas, I am commanded by their Lordships to «end.you a copy Sf their letter of approbation, addressed to Comraandei; Inglefield, and which wUl show the opinion entertained of that officer. J Signed) I am, &c. W. 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