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WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 1 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
tl 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 Printed by Q. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq. 
 
 -/ 
 
»l; 
 
 Th 
 
^'I^^^ 
 
 ^' 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS 
 
 OR, A 
 
 'LEASURE TOUR IN THE CANADAS. 
 
 BY 
 
 WILLIAM H. G. KINGSTON, 
 
 AUTHOR OF 
 
 THE H..KR , How TO Em,„kate j" " The Emiob^^t's Homb ;•■ 
 
 ETC. ETC. 
 
 .'.1^ 
 
 >.■ < 
 
 iN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICCADILLY 
 
 MONTREAL: BENJAMIN DAWSON. 
 
 MncCTI.VI. 
 
 '^ 
 
pflAP 
 ■v.\ 
 
 
 I 
 
 \^ 
 
TO 
 
 ARTHUR MILLS, Esq. 
 
 My pear Mills, 
 
 To your introductions I am indebted for 
 some of the most valuable acquaintance I formed 
 in Canada and the United States ; and I cannot, I 
 think, better evince ray appreciation of them, and 
 of your kindness, than by dedicating to you the 
 following pages. 
 
 While engaged with you in labours which we 
 believed would benefit the colonies and their future 
 inhabitants, I first learned justly to appreciate those 
 noble possessions of the British crown ; and I feel 
 that the adoption of your enlightened views has 
 
VI 
 
 been the main cause of any service my pen may 
 liuvu reiiderctl tljem. 
 
 I have only to regret that circumstances have 
 not enabled me at present to enter, as deeply as I 
 eould have wished, into several important subjects, 
 but I feel sure that the work I hear you arc 
 about to produce will make ample amends for my 
 deficiencies. 
 
 VVith sincere esteem, 
 Believe me 
 
 Very truly yours, 
 
 WILLIAM H. G. KL\(;STOK 
 
 Blackhmth, 2M Oct. 185-5. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The reader must not expect to find, in the following 
 
 pages, my profoundly philosoplncal o. otherwise learned 
 
 research into the origin, history, institutions, or manners, 
 
 of the people of America. My book is the result of a 
 
 visit made to that continent by myself and my wife 
 
 when (I see no valid reason to disguise the fact) we were 
 
 on our wcdding-tour. During it we kept o.ir eyes and 
 
 ears open, and I have attempted little more than to note 
 
 down what we saw and heard. 
 
 Perhaps, as was to be expected, we looked at things 
 generally through rose-coloured spectacles; and as they 
 are, I opuie, under all circumstances of life, more ac^ree- 
 able to use than a yellow or smoke-tinted lens, I shJl \>e 
 truly glad if the reader glances at our sketches through 
 the same pleasant medium. 
 
 Advice as to the plan of our tour we received in 
 abundance before starting. Our destination, in the tirst 
 place, was Canada, after seeing which we proposed 
 making as long a sojourn in tho United States as time 
 
vni 
 
 rilEFACE. 
 
 would allow. We were told that we must not fail to 
 visit London, jind Paris, and Woodstock, and Ilaniilton, 
 which ])laces we supposed were httle villages with big 
 names somewhere in the backwoods. Everj^body said, 
 Of course you will go to Niagara ; and some young ladies 
 entreated that we would not fail to sing " Row, brothers, 
 row," as we descended the rapids of St. Anne,— but whare 
 those rapids wore to be found they knew, I suspect, as 
 little as we did. With this vague notion of localities, 
 all we cauld definitely resolve on was to glide over the 
 waters of the gi-eat lakes, to climb the mountains, and to 
 descend the streai;ns, of the mighty continent; to thread 
 tiie mazes of the dark forests, to search for the wio-wams 
 of the Red Indians, to visit the rough settler m his log- 
 hut, the fai-mer at his cleared homestead, and the citizen 
 in his town dwelling ; in fact, to behold a specimen of 
 each style of scenery, and become acquainted with everv 
 class and phase of society to be found in that rich portion 
 of the New World. We also subscribed to two principles : 
 — One was not to bind ourselves to proceed in any par- 
 ticular direction, should we find it convenient to alter 
 our course ; the other, not to allow ourselves to be dis- 
 quieted by any of the contretemps to which travellers in 
 all lands are liable. 
 
 While we were laying in a store of waterproofs and 
 woollens to shelter us from autumn nuns and winter 
 frosts, our friends collected numerous letters of introduc- 
 tion, so tliat we might not appear as unknown strangers 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IX 
 
 in the New World On examining the packets we found 
 letters addressed in Canada to all classes of the popula- 
 tion, including the Governor-general, some of the bishops 
 and clergy, officers, military and civil, merchants, settlers, 
 and farmers ; and in the United Stiites, to several who 
 are as higldy appreciated in P:ngland as they are in their 
 own land ; to the historian Prescott, to the poet Long- 
 fellow, to Wills, Mrs. Sigourney, Professor Agas?iz, Dr. 
 Howe, the Hon. Abbott Lawrence, and to many other 
 literary and influential persons engaged in mercantile 
 pursuits, or moving in the world of fashion among the 
 " Upper l\in Thousand" whom it would be most agreeable 
 for us to know, and who were likely to give us a favour- 
 able impression of American society. Thus iTepared, we 
 started on our jouniey. 
 
Fii 
 
 
 n( 
 
CONTENTS Oi' yoL. I. 
 
 PllEFACE 
 
 Page 
 
 VI] 
 
 CHAPTEli I. 
 
 ''"mf a xl^fyTr r"""^ '''' Mousey- Anecdote of Jullien 
 and a New York Aiidieuce—fWaiu West — C^ivilifv rf a 
 
 «aul-ri e tapta,,,'. Account of the B„il,li„g of his ,Shi,>- 
 l«8o,.- A.u..oa.„t.-Kl.ctro-Iii„lo,,,_iLt Di„;'o;'o,, 
 
 . 1 
 
 OHAFraiK II. 
 
 '"'' ™teri™ % ""f : ;^f-'-« I-'a->-Su,K.,.b View „„ 
 
 Bntcring Nov \ort Hart,..m-_.Sl,ippi„g-._|.i,,t„f,,s,.„5 A,,- 
 
 peanmco „ Now York.^l.n^i^^Cn,L. If„ns J,^ e S 
 
 Nchoto l„w_s,,„,, f,„. R„„,„,_,-,,^„, »^'- 
 
 n or„,g „„te,_J,„g„if,,e„t Furniture and scant, CoXri™ 
 
 itir. ? T'/'""!*'"-" "f Ie„_I.,™riou/l,rcakLt 
 Ample Sui,,lj „l P„,v«,on»-Uiu„e,. Arm„(.c„„,,t,s-I.,r„,d 
 way-Sun, a, in Now V.u-fc- Various ru,L of the W 
 liit)()n~Police~(V)ini)anvat I)inn,.v p, ^a '•"*^'" 
 
 • • . . 17 
 
 ^f 
 
Xll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAITEH III. 
 Driven from the City by the Heat- Streets at Right Angles- 
 Superiority of Now York Omnibuses to those in Lonaon- 
 Cnihty of all (Masses -The New York Exhil)ition— The 
 Albany Steamer- Vast Size and elegant Decorations— Mode of 
 forwarding Lugga:,'e-The fludsou-Leave Albany by Train- 
 Breakfast at Saratoga -Murean- Take the Stage for Lake 
 George -Companions in the Stage-Mrs. Beeeher Stowe- 
 Wild Views — Snnimary Mode of collecting Rents— Reach 
 Shirnir.s Hotel— Neatness-Civility of Attendants Page 43 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Steamer John Jay-Beauty of Sceneiy on Lake George-Legends 
 of Bygone Days-Fort Ticonderoga— James's Novel— Exact- 
 ness of his Descrii.tions-Lake C1iam plain -Fine Mountain 
 Ranges-Splendour of Sun,set-Plattsburg-. Railway to the 
 bt. Lawrence-(]ro8s the River to La Chine-Railway to 
 Montreal-(.\5nvenience of Luggage Tiekets-Tlie Mountain- 
 Donegana's Hotel -View from the Tuwer of the Cathedral— 
 Provitlential Escape— Tin-coxcred Roofs-Market Place— 
 Lidians— D(!scend tlie St. Lawrence— Trois Rivieres— First 
 View of (Quebec -Obtain Liformatiou for our future Pi-ogress 
 —Excursion to the Chaudiere Falls-Suburb of St. Roch— 
 Frequency of Fires-River Charles -Ship-building- Dilh- 
 culty of hudiiig Crews— Horrible System of Crimping- 
 Beauport ... ^.o 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 The River Saguenaj'—Grandeur of its Sceiieiy— River St. MauTi(;e 
 —Iron-Mine and Fomidries— Shewinagan Falls— Preparations 
 for the West— Leave Quebec— View from the Steamer— 
 Overwrought Descriptions r.f Canada— Montreal -La Chine 
 —Canals— "Jem.y Lind" shooting the Rapids— Tedious Pro- 
 cess of ascending Locks— Prescott-BT'o.Aville- Lake of the 
 Thousand I«]es-Now Canadian ViUage-Mr's. Belton, pur- 
 veyor of Parliamentaty Luncheons— Kingston— Lake Navi- 
 gation— Pnbhe Buildings— Provincial Penitentiary— Heat still 
 considerable— Westward ho ! . . . , qq 
 
 
 .1 
 
CONTEXTS. 
 
 XIU 
 
 it An<^!es — 
 1 London — 
 ition — The 
 IS — Mode of 
 by Train— 
 e for Lake 
 or Stowe — 
 its' — Reach 
 Page 43 
 
 p — Legends 
 el — Exact- 
 e Mountain 
 Iway to thf 
 Railway to 
 lountaiji — 
 .'athedral — 
 et Place — 
 res — First 
 re Progress 
 St. Roch — 
 ing--DiiIi- 
 'rimping — 
 . 68 
 
 >t. Maurice 
 •eparations 
 Steamer — 
 -La Chine 
 (lions Pro- 
 jako of the 
 L-lton, pur- 
 ake Navi- 
 -Heat still 
 , 90 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 The Magnet Steamer— Voyage across Lake Ontario-Va?t Extent 
 -r'irst View of Toronto-Handsome Appearance- Length of 
 Streets— Scenery in the Neighbourhood— Reminded of Home 
 —Unsettled Weather— Railways in Progress— Toll-gates— 
 Moving a House-The Huniber— Drive along the Lake Shore 
 —Pleasant Dinner-party- Start for the Far West— The Lake 
 Simcoe Railway— Voyage aci-oss Lake Simcoe— Beauty of 
 Scenery— Purity of V^^ater— Abundance of Fish — Sheriff of 
 Simcoe County-L-^Iands in the Lake-First Intn.duction to 
 Lidians— Lake Couchachine— The Killarney of Canada P.] 14 
 
 CHAPTER VH. 
 Village of Orillia-Primitive Vehicles-Night Journey across the 
 Country-Evening in a Log-hut— Dreadful Road— Amusing 
 Companions-Mr. Ri-iggs-Coldwater- Abandoned School- 
 house— Reach Lake Huron ^30 
 
 CHAI>TER VHJ. 
 
 Steamer Kaloolah-The Georgian Bay - Commencement of 
 Voyage— Histoiy of Ceorge, a Red Indian— His white Wife- 
 Autobiography of the Sheriff— Anecdote of ^L Le Batte-- 
 TombLsland— Oaloof Wind an.i heavy Sea -The Christian 
 Islands- Visit Indian Village - Canoe Voyage -Ruius of 
 Jesuits' Forts-Briggs and the Indians- Indian Dances- 
 Incongruous Costumes — Indian Squaws and their Pa- 
 P°^'^^'^ 149 
 
 CHAPTPIR TX. 
 
 Collingwood-A new Settlement- Visit the Shore-Owen\s 
 Sound-Sydeuham-Rough Pa«sago-The Great Manatoulins 
 — Manatouwanjni:g— ludian Mi.ssionary Station— Residence 
 of Supenntendent of India.is-Ger.rge's Setth^ment-Strancre 
 fccene-La Cloche Mountains -Continuance of Stormy 
 W ■ ,ither-Tako Sheltei- in Gore Harbour— The Romance of 
 kaloolah . . .^, 
 
 . 1/4 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 '''''^r' f.";'!^? ^" P"''"^' '^"" ^^^"^-Tl-" «t. Mario 
 Ruer-Beat. .M Scenery-Inclians on it.Banks-The Town 
 
 Captaiu-Hi. Adventures-Lake Superior-Settlements - 
 M;Tr,rV'' ,^f«-^- Canal-Indian ChieftainelL 
 Ml. Logans Description of Lake Superior . . Page 191 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Fort Bradj-Officers of United States Army- Gallant Exnloit rf 
 an EngHsh Officer-Dutch Workmen-lLs^oS^^^^^^^^ 
 
 the J^alls of S Anthony-Unfinished Chapel-Burnt Forest 
 -House built by Captani Armytage-lrip to Oros CW 
 propos..l-Hudson's Bay Companys Post-^Lrt^^^^^^^^ 
 
 Z^lt'^—'-^ Fishing-Wondei^fZ;;: 
 ^ 205 
 
 CHAPTER Xn. 
 
 H ./ T^ ■^ Comtmiy-Deoreasc of the Indian Itace- 
 Hislory „l Luis (Vlotto and l,i» Er.Klisl, Wff,. *, 
 
 EnU.n,r.o,,ftho An..rican.-Want Jt U»f^^^^ 
 
 • • . .225 
 
 CHAITER XHL , 
 
 Romantic Night Scene-OurFellow-nasseniTPr^ Tl.. * ■ 
 Anny-The Island of Arackmaw-TrR~^^^^^ 
 Fertihty of Canadian Shore-Lake 8t Uhl t\ ? 
 Excellent Ih^tel-Sandwich-The D^, Ri^^I^^l I 
 ^ oyage in the Buckeye State-Dance on Board-Buldo- 
 Sh>pwreck-The Emerald Steamer-Fort EnV V.T 
 of a «ctt,.-T,. MMlan., Cana,-Ta,!::, "^VeW^r.:; 
 
CONTEMN. 
 
 XV 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 [Symptoms of an Approach to Niagara — (•:7iii)pewa- Railway to 
 the Falls— First Olimpso— The Cliftou-house Hotel — Father 
 Hennepin— Description of the Niagara River and Falls- Gout 
 Island— Vouug America— ITie Horseshoe Fall— The Ame- 
 rican Fall— Table Rock—Provideutial Escape— Interesting 
 ^^''^*^ Page 265 
 
 CHAPlTilR XV. 
 
 OrosH the River-Excursion to Goat Island-Hermit of the Falls 
 —American Mode of Sight-seeing~The Whirlpool— Moon - 
 hght Walk Home 281 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Sunday at the Falls -New Monument to General Brock -The 
 Rapids seen from Street's Mills-Drummoudvillc— Rattle of 
 Une—Tlie Niagara Museum— The Spirit of the 
 291 
 
 Lundy's 
 Falls' 
 
 CHAPTER XVII, 
 Dreadful Catastrophe— Indian Legends of the Falls— Quit Niagara 
 —Land J(,urney~ Great Western Railway— The Welland 
 Canal-Magnihceut L<-.cks-St. Catharine's -Rapid Progress 
 01 Canada-Negroes in Caua.la- Christian Indians— Beams- 
 villc— Grimsby— Arrival at Hamilton .... 300 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 KivaJ Cities-The City Hotel -Excellent Hotels in Hamilton- 
 ^\ alk uj. th..i Mountain-Hospitable Reception-Barton Lodge 
 -Magmuccnt View-Tfie great Colonial Exhibitic»n-Dundas 
 Lake-Burlington Iky and. Heights-N<;vv BuritU (Jround- 
 Birds of Upper Canada- Ancaster Springs -VtUuable l^'o- 
 perties-Beauty of Woods— Settlers' Burial-phices- Trees of 
 Upper Canada 2,2 
 
KVl 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CIIAITER XIX. 
 
 The Indian Summer— Climate of Upper Canada little under- 
 stood in England—Streets of Hamilton— Extousive Shores- 
 Fine piiLlie Buildings — Rapid Progress —Banks— System of 
 Budding — Excursion on the Creat We.stern Railway — Expense 
 of constructing Railways in Canada— Mode of preserving 
 Provisions in the Winter Pago 335 
 
 m 
 
 mM 
 
I little under- 
 sive Shores — 
 s— System of 
 \'iiy — Kxpcnse 
 of tjrtworviiig 
 . Pago 335 
 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS, 
 
 lire. cfc. 
 
 Tilt: OIUVH OK TilK IIACKWOOL'SMA.N. 
 
 n 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 A VISIT to America having b.^en proposed, duly discussed, 
 and finally .resolved on, we foimd ourselves, on the 24th 
 of AuiTust, 1853, on board an active, bustling little craft, 
 with a huge specimen of Uncle Sim's banner flying over 
 lier taifi-ail, paddling towards one of the magnificent 
 steam-ships of the American Collins' line, the Atlantic, 
 
 ^ OL. 1. jj 
 
2 
 
 WEHTEKN WANDEUING8. 
 
 whicli lay in the niid-stroain of tlio Mersey. The decks 
 of the tiny satellite were crowded with [)assenger8 and 
 piles upon piJea of trunks, eai-pet-ba/rs, hat-boxes ; but 
 notwithstanding this vast amount of luggage and appa- 
 rently irretrievable confusion, when v>e got on board the 
 huge steamer, the officers and men paid so much atten- 
 tion to the passengers, and took so nnich pains to show 
 them wliere each ch«'st, parcel, and ])ackage, was stowed, 
 that after a search of some minutes, while my wife sat 
 on deck amused with the novel scene, I ascertained that 
 liot a i)articlfc of our pro[)crty was missing. 
 
 Retiring to our cabin wo wrote letters, which we de- 
 spatched by the agent; and I then, like an old voyager, 
 hung up our cloaks and secured our trunks, dressing- 
 eases, and books, so that, should a gale overtake us, they 
 might not go independently cruising about the cabin. 
 Tliis done, with consciences at ease and hope in the fu- 
 ture, we ri'turned on deck to watch the fun. The perse- 
 vering tributary was again cmploy(>d in tlischarging a 
 motley assemblage of voyagers and their luggage into the 
 ship. 
 
 Noon arriAcd, the mighty engines oegan to clank, 
 and, at a pace slow and digniiietl, we commenced ouj- 
 progress, soon to increase it to the headlong sj-Kied of 
 fourteen miles an hour. Just then two river-steamers 
 came spluttering past luider our stern, with bands on hoard, 
 whicli struck up m compliment to our starry ajid striped 
 banner, '••' Hail. Columbia !"" and " Yankee Doodle." Our 
 American fellow-passengers seemed much })l(>ased with 
 the compliment. May the national anthems of our two 
 great nations ever sound with friendly notes in each 
 others waters! 
 
 This reminds me of a story 1 have since heard 
 
WESTEllN WANDEUING8. 
 
 3 
 
 dnre heard 
 
 n-^rnrclin^r Jullien, the most dictatorial of musicians, 
 playing just then to a hat-wearing, down-sitting audience' 
 in repuhlican New York. Often had his mighty soul 
 chafed at the visible want of that r.-spect he justly decerns 
 due to his potent art. One evening, with all the power 
 of his vast genius thrown into the whole str{>n<rth of his 
 band he struck up " Hail, Columbia !" Everv'^one was 
 enraptured; and "Encore I Encore! Encore .'""resounded 
 through the hall. Ho rose, bow in han<i, and waving it 
 on high, bowed to tlie sovereign people: " (Jentlemen " 
 he cried, " when I play * God save the Queen,' and othJr 
 national anthems, in the Old World, my audience are wont 
 to stand up uncovered in resjject to the sovereign who 
 rules the land. In this happy, glorious countrv the people 
 reign supreme: they themselves the only sovereio-n thej 
 acknowledge-therefore, most enlightened of audiences 
 in respect to yourselves, with hatless heads, rise to your 
 teet, or my instruments will refuse to ])roduce those in- 
 spiring strains which speak to your souls of your nation's 
 glory." The spark of enthusiasm thus kindled blazed up 
 brightly-" Bravo! Bravo! Bravo!" was the vociferous 
 rei)ly. All present rose to their feet; and Jullien cLl.ns 
 the glory of having taught our good cousins to honour 
 themselves, though they may hold but in light esteem 
 the occupants of what they may regard as the toUevln. 
 thrones of the ancient world. *^ 
 
 The day was intensely hot for England, for there was 
 an unclouded sun, and scarcely a breath of air; and as 
 hundreds of small steamers were pulHng about before 
 Liverpool, the slight wind stirring blew their smoke in 
 dense, black wreaths towards the city, makinir it appear 
 precisely as if they were hotly engjiged in bombarding it. 
 
WESTERN WANDERIN08. 
 
 At one tlic [mrsor and letter-bags eamo oft', and as our busy 
 little attendant, having jierfonned her last trip, turned 
 her bows away from our lofty side, wo felt infinite con- 
 tentment at being started on our ex|X'dition ; and having 
 congratulated ourselves on the event, I hastened below 
 to inquire the probable hour of dinner. In the evening 
 we were in sight of the high and rocky shores of the Isle 
 of Man, steering b(»tween it and the north end of Ireland. 
 We took a more than usual northfi iy coiu'se, by which 
 we made a shorter voyage, but encountered cold weather 
 and fogs. I would gladly have bargained for a longer 
 voyage with fine warm weather. At se\'en the next 
 morning, being twenty miles from North Cape, we bade 
 farewell to Europe. 
 
 There were on board 170 chief cabin passengers and 
 60 in the fore-cabin, while the officers and |)ersons of all 
 grades employed in the ship a -'ounted to 146 souls. 
 Among these is a surgeon and a barber, a coloured man, 
 Amos by name, who has followed the captain's fortunes 
 many years. The stewards, who wear a neat uniform, 
 are mostly black or coloured, and are merry, active, 
 intelligent fellows: I learned to prefer them in many 
 respects to their white brotliren. Four priests of ebon 
 hue officiate in the caboose for the benefit of the passen- 
 gers, and two devote their services to the crew. Their 
 chief has ministered to Captain We -it for twelve years; 
 and, negro thouph ho i-., ;■ better se;. -cook I never wish to 
 find. How can i sufficiently praise his super-excellent 
 Irish stew, a dish fragrant to the nose and delicate to the 
 taste, unlike any Irish stew I ever before eat — such as 
 one might suppose Nora Creina, or some other fair 
 daughter of Erin's Isle, to have concocted in her happiest 
 
 i -5. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 as our busy 
 trip, turned 
 infinito con- 
 and havinjT 
 tened below 
 the evening 
 ? of the Isle 
 I of Ireland, 
 e, by which 
 old weather 
 i)r a longer 
 n the next 
 pe, we bade 
 
 ?engers and 
 iTsons of all 
 
 146 souls, 
 oured man, 
 ii's fortunes 
 at vuiL'orm, 
 rry, active, 
 n in many 
 sts of ebon 
 the passen- 
 ew. Tlieir 
 olve years; 
 (ver wish U) 
 or-excellent 
 licate to the 
 t — sucli as 
 
 other fair 
 ler happiest 
 
 mood- liis delicious puddings, his e\(inmtc petitt phiCnf* 
 Be it known to my non-nautical readers that the ''cabcwso" 
 js a kitchen; it is the name given by the Phu'uician 
 worsiiippers of Hre to the temples dedicated to their Gt)d, 
 which they carried on the deck- of their ships. When it 
 was found convenient to cook dinners th<>rein, tlu' name 
 was Ptill retained, while lilackio, the cook, took the phico 
 of the officiating priest. 
 
 * I hore for tho firat time met with a most <U)li',ious prepa- 
 ration of maize or Indiaii com flour, which I afterwards found in 
 general use both in Canada and the United States. I introduced 
 it into England under the name of Matanta, or Hefim^d American 
 Maize Floiu-, and placed it in the hands r,f Messrs. Fortiium and 
 Mason for mle. It can be used for all the purposes f,.r which 
 arrowroot is employed, and may be cooked in the same way. It 
 is, however, of a lighter nature, and i)ossesses a far more delicate 
 flavour. It serves to make the lightest and most excellent l)aked 
 puddings, soufiles, cakes, blanc-mange, custards, ice-creams, and 
 tarts. I can more especially recommend the blanc-mange. 
 custards, and puddings, made with it. Plainly boiled, and 
 afterwards mixed with milk, it makes a most whc^lesome food for 
 infants. Persons with delicate stomachs may use it simply boiled 
 in water, and allowed to cool in a fonn, or warm with sugar and 
 wine or brandy. It" may have a little stroiig meat gravy mixed 
 witli it, and being allowed to cool in a form it will make an 
 excellent dish of gravy jelly. From its e.vtromo delicacy, it will 
 take the full flavour of every kind of seasoning. To test its 
 superiority over arrowroot, I placed some boiled maranta in one 
 basin, and some boiled arrowroot in another, and allowed them 
 to remain for three days. The arrowroot had turned into liquid, 
 while the maranta had retained its original consistency. 
 
 1 procured the following recipes in America, and think them 
 worthy of being copied : — 
 
 "■Uahd Pudding.— Yive table-spoonfuls of the flour to one 
 quart of milk. Dissolve the flour in some of the milk ; heat the 
 remainder of tho milk to nearly boiling, after having put in a little 
 
^ WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Every luxury we could desire we were aniplv sup- 
 plied with. Ik^sides an abundance of pikes de rdsLtance, 
 we had numer .1 i well-made entremets. Meat, fish, and 
 vegetables, were preserved fresh in ice; and we had ice 
 at every meal to cool our water, milk, and wine. The 
 routine of each day was much as follows :— At half-past 
 seven a gong sent its deep sounding breath through every 
 corner and cranny of the vessel to awake sleepers to the 
 
 salt ; then add the dissolved flour ; boil three minutes, stirring 
 It briskly ; allow it to cool, and then thoroughly mix with it three 
 eggB, well beaten, with three table-s]K)onfulB of sugar Flavour 
 according to taste, and let it bake half-an-hour. 
 
 •' manc-J/ange,~Om quart of milk and six table -spoonfuls of 
 flour. Beat the ilour with three eggs and some salt and sugar if 
 required, and add to it the milk when nearly boiling. ]]oil it a 
 few minutes, stirring it briskly. Flavour it with rose, vanilla, or 
 lemon, and pour it into a mould. It may be used with a sauce 
 ot sugar and cream, and should be eaten cold. 
 
 " Minute Puddm<y.-Vvepave as above, ^yith any sauce that 
 may be fancied; or by stirring in fruits an excellent plum- 
 pudding may be made. To be eaten warm. 
 
 "Boiled Custard, or Mod-- Oream.-Ty,'o table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, one quart of milk, two or three eggs, half a tea-spoonful of 
 butter. Heat the milk to near boiling, and add the flour pre- 
 viously dissolved in a part of the milk ; then ad.l tho eggs weU 
 beaten, with four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar ; let it boil up 
 once or twice, stirring it up briskly, and it is done. Flavour with 
 lemon according to taste. 
 
 - /ce-Cremn.-Omittmg tho [)uttor and salt, tlie above pre- 
 paration for custard can be made into a verv excellent ice-cream 
 
 «/'ie...-Line adeep plate with crust, and bake tlie cnist in a 
 quick oven. When done, fill with the custard, strew the top with 
 powdered sugar, set it again into the oven to bake. 
 
 " Cul-e.--Om pound of sugar, three .luarters 'of a pound of 
 huttcT, SIX eggs, one pound of the maize-rtour ; bake in small 
 p itty tins. Lxquisilely liglit cakes are produced. 
 
WESTERN WAX DElllNGS. 
 
 bnsiiioss of tlie day. At eight it again sounded, and tliej 
 coinniencod this same onerous business by going to break- 
 fast, whieli continued on tlie table till ten o'clock. A 
 tempting bill of fare was lianded to each person, from 
 which he selec-ted food to his fancy, and this was i)hiced in 
 a few moments hot and a[»pctite-encouraging l)efore hitn. 
 Excellent bread, rolls, corn- bread,— that is cake made of 
 Indian corn,— served up hot, and looking like small close 
 sponge-cakes, buckwheat-cakes, rice-cakes, somewhat 
 snnilar to pancakes, of ground rice, and other farinaceous 
 delicacies, were bake<I on board. 'Ilie advent of every 
 meal was announced by a gong, .uid as peoiile were 
 always feef'ing, the gong had little rest. When aroused 
 from sleep, f used to wonder whence came the dread 
 sounds I }iear<i. nor c.uld I for many days discover their 
 source. It seemed as if some noise-loving spirit were 
 ranging at large about the decks. At lengtli, one morn- 
 ing resolved to solve the mystery, I rush(>d from my 
 cabin as 1 heard them approaciung, and encountered a. 
 youthful negro, with uhite teeth grinmng and eyes 
 rolling, i)erfijrming, to his very evident satisfaction, the 
 office of sleep-rouser general. 
 
 A iunciieon, of hot soup, potatoes, and meat, was 
 served at noon. At lialf-past three the gong once more 
 sounded, warning that dinner was preparing; and at four, 
 I)eople being seated and an army of waiters marshalled 
 outside, the liead steward entered, and, looking round at 
 the guests to see that all wen^ accoimnodatefl, waved his 
 hand. At the signal, the black troo[)s entered in files, 
 armed with plates offish and soup, \^hich they offered to 
 the diners. Each steward had three or four persons 
 under bis charge, to Avhose wants he was bcmnd especially 
 
8 
 
 WESTERN WANDEUTXGS. 
 
 to attend. For the second conrse, tlie waiters a<Tain 
 entered in file, l)";irin^r covered dfslies. As soon as^he 
 leading man reached the tnrtlier end of the saloon, they 
 halted and faced riglit and left. At a signal, they place 
 the dishes on the table, and at another they ^vhisked off 
 the covers. The principal viands, hcnve'ver, did not 
 )nake their appearance, but were carved in the butterv. 
 The immense variety of puddings and tarts sui-prised us, 
 when we remembered the Hmall space allotted to their 
 preparation. A card with a {xmcil was given to each 
 IKn-son who required whie, that he nn'ght si^-n his order 
 and be satisfied that he was not charged fiir more than 
 he had consumed. Tea was on the table at seven, and 
 supper was ready at nine for those who wanted it; so 
 that tndy the most hungry of mortals would find it 
 difficult to keep a constant shai-p edge on his appetite. 
 On going on board, two .lays before sailing, we remarked 
 m the dining saloon cards with the names of passengers 
 pinned to the tablen^ov-r. In this way people engage 
 the seats they may wish to occ^upy during the voyage. 
 We accordingly juade our selection, but \he first' dsty, 
 when we had takeii our places, w(^ were politely invited 
 by Captam West to occu]>y seats at his tabled and he 
 nistalled us in a snug corner, which we retained, to our 
 very great comfort, during the voyage. 
 
 People talk of the tediousness\tf a voyage. For my 
 part I love the deep majestic sea too much ever to weary 
 of I . I have a predilection, however, for pleasant com- 
 panions, a good sliij., and fine weather. We had left 
 port about forty hours wlien thick weatlier came on, and 
 some sportful «eas getting up began to tumble the ship 
 about, cojitinuing so to do incessantly for some davs. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 9 
 
 sadly thinning the dinner-tables, while most of the pas- 
 sengers who ventured to emerge from their bertlis sat 
 mopingly silent and lookhig very sorry for themselves. 
 
 When the ocean became cahner, the men, i.-^su^ng 
 from tJieir dens, monopoHsed one-half of the deck with 
 the game of " shovel-board," which went on from mom 
 till eventide. It is doubtlessly of nautical oriirin, and 
 well calculated for shipboard. Squares, with a number 
 in each, are marked with clialk on the deck. The 
 l)layers use flat, round boards, which they shove witli a 
 stick or the hand towards the squares. Their aim is to 
 send the boards into the squares with the highest 
 numbers. ^ 
 
 On Sunday the 28th, a fine and calm, though still 
 cold day, Dr. Tynge, a clergyman of the Prolestant 
 Episcopal Church of the United States, performed divine 
 service in the dining saloon to a large congregation, many 
 of whom I imderstood were not Episcopalians. The 
 service differs slightly from that of the C^hurch of 
 England, chiefly by the omission of rei)etitions— a few 
 expressions being also changed, I think for the better. 
 He afterwards gave an extemjjorai-y sermt)n with much 
 eloquence, well fitted for so varied an assembly. 
 
 On, on, sped our sln'p. Often on my way to our 
 eabin I sto])ped to watch the mighty engines at work. 
 Ceaselessly they toiled— day after day, and night after 
 night— unwearied by their herculean hiboiirs, with 
 measured strokes moving majestically. There is true 
 grandeur in that mighty steamship — triumph of human 
 art. Vast in bulk, powerful in frame, independent almost 
 of weather, on she hastens in her determined course, 
 beneath bright or o'ercast skies, through blue or leaden- 
 coloured seas, m calm or storm, for thousands and thou- 
 
 i 
 
10 
 
 WESTERN AVAXDERINGS, 
 
 sands of miles, persevei-ing and confident of attaining her 
 destined port within some short liours of the time long 
 before arranged— fit emblem of an unconqnerable will. 1 
 took still greater interest in the stout Atlantic, when I 
 heard her Captain tell how her keel was laid, each timber 
 brought to the yard, and foshioned, placed together and 
 secured, under his own w^atchful eye; how he had traced 
 the shapeless masses of iron cast into the furnace, melted, 
 and wrought into form ; how, with shears, and blocks, 
 and ropes, the perfect engines had been hoisted into their 
 destined places; how, with eagerness intense, he had 
 seen the fires lighted, the caldrons heated, the steam 
 gradually let on; and, oh! Ids intense gratification as the 
 mighty pistons began to move, the vast wheels to revolve, 
 and the noble ship he was to command rushed majestically 
 through the yielding waters. Tt seemed to him truly, he 
 said, as if the breath of life was being breathed into some 
 Frankenstein-like monster. That moment could never 
 be forgotten by him. His manner, usually so calm and 
 unim passioned, became warm and enthusiastic as he gave 
 us the description to which I have in no w^ay done 
 justice. Tt was poetry spoken from the gallant seaman's 
 heart. 
 
 " Day by day the vessel grew, 
 With timbers fashioned strong anil true ; 
 Stcmson and keelson and sternaon-knee, 
 Till, framed witli perfect symmetry, 
 A skeleton whip rose up to vi^w ! 
 And around the bows and along the side 
 The heavy hammers and mallets phed, 
 Till after many a week at length, 
 Wonderful for form and strength, 
 Sublime in its enormous bulk, 
 Loomed aloft the shadowy hulk ! 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 11 
 
 seamans 
 
 And around it columns of smoke, upwrcathing, 
 
 Rose from the boiling, bubbling, seething 
 
 Caldron, that glowed, 
 And overflowed 
 
 With the black tar, heated for the sheathing. 
 
 And amid the clamours 
 
 Of clattering hammers. 
 
 He who listejied heard now and then 
 
 The song of the master and his men :— 
 
 'Build me straight, worthy master, 
 
 Staunch and strong, a goodly vessel. 
 That shall laugh at all disaster, 
 
 And with wave and whirlwind wrestle !'" 
 
 Captain West's description reminded us of Lon.?- 
 fellow's magnificent poem, « The Building of the Ship/ 
 from Avhich I cannot help quoting. I delight in it. Had 
 he written nothing else lie might have taken high rank 
 as a poet. Our captain also told us of what steam and 
 electricity can do. Leaving Liverpool, after a speedy 
 passage the Atlantic reached New York one mornino at 
 half-past seven. The price of cottons at Manchester was 
 the nnportant news she brought. On it the prosperity 
 <^r rum, perhaps, of many depended. The electric wire, 
 soon after charged with the intelligence, conveyed it 
 mierringly to New Orieans, one tlumsand six hundred 
 mdes distant. The effect this news had produced on the 
 markets of that lar-off city was published ihe same 
 evenmg in the New York ].aj)ers. What mav seem 
 stranger still to those who forget how the world turns 
 romid, this news, which left New York at about a quarter 
 before eight, reached New Orleans at a quarter past 
 seven, thus beating time by a full half hour! Rapidly, 
 mdeed, does news trav el in America. Day after day as 
 we moved on chasing the sun, whose briglit sheen glit- 
 
 m 
 
12 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 tered on the waters ahe;ul, we managed to pick uj) nearly 
 half-an-liour in addition to f)ur usual quantum of four- 
 and-twenty ; but as we lost it again on oui- return home, 
 we cannot boast of having increased the lejigth of our 
 days by our trip to Amerietu 
 
 When we got well to the south and west of Cni^e 
 Race, so as to be sheltered by the shores of New- 
 foundland and Nova Scotia from the cold drauc-ht-, of the 
 north, and hito blue water, the sea became calmer and 
 the atmosphere increased in warmth. Tlie sunsliine and 
 calm brought out the hitherto forlorn and soTowful 
 l)assengers, and tliose who had been shrunk up like mere 
 grubs in their berths for many a day came fortli in gay 
 suits, and skipped and frolicked about like gaudy butter- 
 flies; but not like them silent, for louder clatter was 
 never heai-d from human tongues. We sat on deck 
 reading, drawing, talking, or looking on amused at the 
 scene, or gazhig on the fair ocean, or watching at noon 
 the rainbow tints playing on the spray cast up by our 
 mighty wheels. In an evening i'ully a hundred persons 
 collected in the saloon; the ladies workintr, the men 
 playing cards, or reading or talking. There were some 
 fine voices among them which sang deliciously. Their 
 nigger songs delighted the coloured boys. Many of our 
 ccjmpanions were retmiiing fnjm their travels in Europe. 
 They spoke witli aifection of the Queen of Great Britain. 
 Our sovereign, by some acts of courtesy she so well 
 knows how gracefully to bestoAV, has gained the love of 
 all right thinkers and feelers in the States. All liked 
 
 England also. That worthy Colonel praised our 
 
 cities, but especially Edinburgh. He bore no love to 
 Paris however — to the Parisians still less. 
 
 " There ai-e many fine buildhigs, and sights enough 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 13 
 
 to tire Olio's eyes out," observed my friend ; « })ut for my 
 part I was soon heartily sick of their carries on, and 
 potter, and all their Punch-and-Judy tomfooleries. The 
 French may be a great people, but they don't suit n- -, I 
 guess." 
 
 Among those on board who deserve mention was 
 Amos, the coloured barber and captain's f-ictotum, of 
 bright eye and intelligent countenance — how every 
 morning he plied his razors on the clvins of the passengers 
 in front of our cabin-door. In a calm or tumbling sea 
 with equal art he cleared the stiff stubble. Those he 
 o[.erated on sat in a high chair with a low back, secured 
 to the deck, their feet on a stool level with the lower 
 button of their waistcoats, while he stood with out- 
 stretched legs rirmly planted fearlessly lathering. Pie 
 proudly boasted that even when leaning over a sick 
 voyager in his berth he had never drawn blood. The 
 airs and graces of those coloured boys amused us much. 
 I often heard them betting among each other, the stakes 
 many dollars; and judguig from their conversation they 
 were large owners of railway or canal shares and similar 
 property. Our voyage sped pleasantly along ; indeed it 
 aj^peared to us that we hiui scarcely arranged our cabin 
 and made ourselves at home before it Avas over. 
 
 Our fellow-voyagers did their best to make them- 
 selves agreeable. One gentleman entertained a large 
 audience for several calm evenings by an exhibition of 
 his unrivalled electro-biologic power over his own or anv 
 other person's walking-stick. By a few passes on each 
 side of its head he made it support itself at an angle of 
 forty-five degrees, more or less. There it stood, to the 
 astonishment and admiration of all beholders. Some 
 smiled, some gaped, but most looked awe-struck, ajid. 
 
14 
 
 WESTEKN WANDERINGS. 
 
 gliiricea uneasily at one another, douhtinji^ whence the 
 stranger's art nn'ght come. Often was he pressed to 
 show the effects of his hidden powers during the day ; 
 hut he invariably declined, on the plea tliat tjie requisite 
 strenuous exertions of mental ^^ ill never failed to bring 
 on a severe lieadache, which nothing but a night's res^t 
 could remove, and that he nmst thej-efore wail till nc^ar 
 bedtime to perform the work. He spoke so much and 
 so learnedly on the subject that few could remain scep- 
 tical as to his powers. After each performance the 
 gentlemen attempted to make their sticks stand in a 
 similar way; and it was iniinitely anmsing to watch 
 them patting them on either sid(? of the head in vain, 
 coaxing and coercing them in every possible way. Not 
 a stick would a(;knowledge their mesmeric influence, but 
 each fell lielplessly on the dcH-k. Even that of the great 
 mesmeriser liimself, in other hands, was unstable as the 
 rest. On the last evening of the voyage, the larger 
 number of passengers being collected around him, he 
 gave an eloquent lecture on mesmerism, which, if not 
 exactly comprehended by his hearers, was not owing to 
 his wajit of woi-ds. If somewhat obscure at times, he 
 allowed the full light of the noble science to blaze forth 
 at the end. '* Yes, ladies and gentlemen," he exclaimed, 
 " the great, the important secret shall be revealed. This 
 black thread fastenied to my knees is the only portion of 
 the black art I ])ossess. For what J know to tlie con- 
 trary, electro-biologists may— I beg their pardons if I 
 wrong them —humbug as mucii as 1 have for a brief 
 space deceived you; but I deceived at first to instruct 
 m the end, and you will, 1 am sure, forgive me hi consi- 
 deration of the humble share of amusement I have 
 afforded you during the voyage." His explanation of 
 
AVESTEltN WANDERINGS. 
 
 15 
 
 the art dectro-l.iologic was about as lucid as that of 
 another gentleman on board, who wished to enable a lady 
 of uiqinruig mind to eomprehond the principle of the 
 steam-engine. 
 
 "Why you see, mann," quotii he, "it's just one 
 thing goes up, and tlien another thing comes down, and 
 then they let the smoke on, which makes the wheels ..o 
 round. Tliat's what they call the hydraulic principfe. 
 It's quite simple when you know it." 
 
 "La me I I never understood it before ; but then I 
 never had it properly explained," replied his fair listener, 
 with a smile of satisfaction. 
 
 The last day's diuxier was marked by champagne, 
 clean napkins, and the utmost exertion of the cook's *art.' 
 On the cloth being removed speeches innumerable were 
 delivered. I was deputed to return thanks for the 
 honour done England when the health of Ejigland's 
 Queen was di'unk, which it was right loyally. I said, 
 among other pretty things, that I hoped 'the' Stars and 
 Stripes might eA^er float at peace alongside the Union 
 Jack of Old England, and tiuit I felt towards Americans 
 as towards brothers, with the certainty that as a brother 
 I sho-ld be treated through whatever part of their coun- 
 try I miglit jouHK^y. Dr. Tynge, in reply, hoped to 
 bind me to the States with bands of gutta-percha, that 
 when I departed I might be drawn back closer than 
 ever. ^ After dinner, and during the next morning, man>' 
 Americans with whom we had not before spoken canje 
 up and politely addressed us, evincing a strong wish to 
 show us every attention in their power. It is' pleasant ' 
 to think of the cordial feelings, thus easily excited, with 
 which we parted from our fellow- voyagers. Durino- the 
 
16 
 
 WESTEItN WANDEllINGS. 
 
 voja^f, also, we received the kindest attention from 
 ( -aptain West, tlian whom it would be difficult to meet a 
 hotter specimen of the American sea-officor. Ccjnsidering 
 tjie mixed multitude we had on board, and puttinj: aside 
 a few ix'culiaritles, I rejoice to say a better-beliaAcd or 
 kiiidlier-raanjiered set of people I hav«> never met. 
 
vJHAPTEJl II. 
 
 A WHITE and silvery %, but 8o opaqu.^ as mucli to 
 circumscribe our view, bad been resting on tbe cabn 
 ocean since early dan n, when, as I was steppino- on 
 deck, one of the officers of the ship tour-hod ,nv an,rand 
 said, "Sir, I guess you'd like to see the hmd/ There it 
 IS . On a sudden an unusual sensation, sonieuhat more 
 akm to entlmsiasni than one is apt to feel in this material 
 age, rose in my breast. Then,, before my eyes lay- 
 stretched out the land I liad so often read and dreamed 
 oi,— that wondrous Now World! All of it, how- 
 ever that I saw just then was a deep 1)1p.. wa^ line 
 dearly defined against the bright sky,-t,he east eml ,.f 
 Long Island, hi a short time a wide sandy beach ap- 
 peared, and then dark trees rose up beyoiurit. To t'-e 
 eye the shore was .ievoid of all beauty, but, brightened 
 with the tints of the imagination, I gazed at it with 
 intense eagerness. It was Anu^ica, with its intereslina 
 past, Its magnificent present, its glorious future ! 
 ^ Travellers are apt to pick up very wrong informa- 
 tion on the commonest matters even on the spot where 
 they might expect to obtain it most correctlA 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 1 m 
 
18 
 
 WERTF.UN WANDEItmOS. 
 
 with a curious inatanco of tlii.s. () no Am eriean ^Gentle- 
 man assured uu; that tlie island in .si<fiit was, for the most 
 part, a wild district, thr(»ugh which deer and Indians 
 ranged at large. Immediately afterwards another of 
 our f(^llow-j>a5sengers came up and told me that tlu; land 
 is mostly fertile, the scenery very pretty, and that there 
 are on it a large immher of first-rate, udmirahl v cultivated 
 farms, while a railroad runs from one end to the other ; 
 and if there are a few miserahle Indians and deer, they 
 are all cooped up within some helts of wild ground ex- 
 isting in the interior. At the west end of the island is 
 Brooklyn, one of the vast subin-bs of New York. Num- 
 bers of the iidiabitants of that city congregate on the 
 coast to bathe. The hathingnseason is made one of con- 
 stant festivity. Then it is, we were told, that havin(» 
 danced all the evening, chivalrous cavaliers, to exhibit 
 their gallantry, lead timid damsels into the water, and, 
 hand in hand, aid them in confronting the roaring billows 
 of the raging ocean. 
 
 At II A.M. the two stumpy masts and well-rounded, 
 broad-l)eamed hull of a stout little pilot schooner, loomed 
 through the moist n)ist, which had again settled down 
 over the sea; and a cockle-shell of a beat, leaving her 
 side (piickly, put a pilot on board us. Immediately the 
 stranger step])ed on deck he was |)ressed upon by an an- 
 xious crowd inipiiring for news. Instead of giving verbal 
 replies, he produced a bundle of papers. Sad, alas I to 
 the hearts of many from the Southern States was the 
 intelligence they contained. The yellow fever, the 
 scourge of the Tropics, was raging in New Orleans, and 
 thousands were being struck down daily by its dire 
 powers. Frequent exclamations of " Ah, he's gonel" 
 and deej) sigJis met oui' eai's as the deaths of fellow- 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS, ig 
 
 citizens and Monds >vore found recorcica. The unusually 
 iiot wcjitlior II New York l.n.l ..1 .^ i . n- "" . ''"^V 
 c 1 w , '^^^ "'•'^'^ "*'^'" te linir w th fear- 
 
 fu cftcc, on the livo, of i„ ,„,„i,i,„„t,. ,„tlt ;.^ 
 .uformcd thncwe should find the .e„,,,era.urc, on I™ 
 still very oxccsaue. 
 
 On, with «U„, dignity, glidcl the stout ship, seendnff 
 conscious that she h.d „ln,„,t ,K,rforme,i l,cr t^"Th, 
 boa„„, hor freight of near 300 sonis aero s X^!: 
 
 port. here was no noise, no bustle; the very wheels 
 evolved, an. sure. ,„ore silently and cautiously! Only 
 at mtervals was heard the voice of the officer of 2 
 
 orders to the hehusman. Our American friend, we e 
 mos an.v,ous that we should have a fine day, to en, ^ 
 he beau,K.s presented by the coast in the neighb uS 
 of New lork; and at length their wishes, as well Z 
 oars. seen..d likely to be gratified. Slow , the li 
 bogan to roll away from the land ; and hills, id groT 
 «nd green fields, and white villas, and Howerv rndZ 
 I^J >«>. in prfused masses front nndcrl^:!^^^ 
 which had enveloped them, glittering like rich cems 
 
 white sa Is of the schooners and other small cralt which 
 s«.>rmcd around us danced cheerily in his bcnms 1, 
 we ^.dvanced Sandy Hook w.as seen with i , sped 
 hgh house, on the southern side of IWita,, Bay; Tl 
 we , few still more ;„ >™,, ,,, ,„,j^ ., ,,„„,/;X , 
 to close aroimd „s, till we fom.d ourselves in what 
 api>eared to be a magnificent bay, but wh di wal , 
 H^ahty t lie entr.anee of the passage between Lon^ a, 
 
 ^Z^te ,^7r"'>™-'-J y^" near..r „/co. d 
 <Ji»t,nj,u,sh the high shores of Staten Island, covered 
 
 Ifl 
 
20 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 thickly with pretty villas, with cool-looking, deep 
 verandahs rising from among groves of shade-giving 
 trees, and fields, and gardens of refreshing greenness. 
 On each available spot stood a villa of every variety of 
 architect lire ; some, perhaps, from their style, as old as 
 the " Lust in rust " of the worthy, comfort-loving Dutch 
 who once owned that fair land. To our c^yes there was 
 a bright, foreign, soniet\hat tropical look about the 
 scenery. The fields and lawns, too, were painted with a 
 light yellow dazzling tint, totally unknown to dwellers in 
 England. The clear atmosphere, the deep blue sky, and 
 the shining waters, increased the beauty of the scene, and 
 gave it a fairy-like aspect it may not always wear. As 
 the passage through which we were to pass was just 
 opening out before us, a towering steamer came rushing 
 forth from it. Slie was the Pacific, starting on her out- 
 ward voyafTC. Our respective guns thundered forth a 
 noisy greeting — OTir l)anners were lowered and hoisted, 
 and the voices of the crews and passengers joined hi 
 cheerful shouts, as the two mighty ships, their sides almost 
 n-ra/jng, swept majestically past each other ; and 1 doubt 
 not, had tlicre been bantls on botu'd, they Avould have 
 played " The jSIeethig of the Waters," as ap|)ropriate to 
 the occasion. Entering that picturesque channel, called 
 the Narrows, we soon fomid ourselves in tlu- superb 
 expanse of New York liay. Having landed a passenger 
 on the nortl.orn shore, we took a health-officer on board 
 in his stead. The absence of a fee-expecting official, with 
 grutf voice demanding our passports, made us feel that 
 however foreign in appearance was the land before us, it 
 was a land owned by a kindred race — a land of frcinen. 
 No one asked us whence we came or whither we were 
 going, except from the purest and most iinioccnt curiosity. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 21 
 
 New York was a-liead, an,l as ^ye steamed on towards 
 that great einporiiim of the Western World's trade, we 
 found ourselves among clustering forests of masts,'col- 
 lected from every port in America, as well as from the 
 furthermost parts of old Ocean's confines. It was a fine 
 sight, and well might an American's heart be proud of it, 
 for the stars and stripes outnnmbered far the flags of all 
 other nations. Besides the little schooners I have siwken 
 of, there was a vast number of high flat-sterned, long- 
 stemmed cutters, painted all over of a bright green wiSi 
 white sails. They are unlike any other craft I have seen, 
 except in a toy-shop. I conclude they are employed in 
 the navigation of the numerous inlets* in the neighbour- 
 hood of New York, and I have no doubt are better sea- 
 boats than at first sight they appear. But we were very 
 soon attracted from all other objects to a class of vessels 
 for the invention of which America has all the glory. 
 That they were steamers we discovered by their funnels] 
 whence smoke issued, and by an odd iron affair at the 
 top of everything, evidently part of an engine, which kept 
 see-sawing up and down ; but from their long white hulls, 
 with galleries and decks, or platforms piled one above' 
 another, we should otherwise have taken them at a dis- 
 tance for Chinese junks. Phantom-like they were fiittinir 
 about in all directions, every tier crowded*^ with human 
 I)eings.^ Many were crossing the harbour and other wide 
 arms of the sea, and my first impression was, that should 
 they be caught in a s.juall they must inevitably be blown 
 over and over; but on examining them more minutely, J 
 saw that the wide platforms, extcMiding on either side of 
 the paddle-wheels and almost fiush^ with the water, 
 would tend much to keep them on an even keel ; and f 
 afterwards learned tliat the exact sort of catiistroplu; I 
 
 PI 
 
22 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 ■ 
 
 antici})ated for them seldom or never occurs, tliougli ti.ey 
 are tolerably well accustomed to bein- blown up, driven 
 on shore, snagged, burned, and to many other of the 
 little wntretemps to wlilcii things floating are subject. 
 As Cousin Jonatiian is fully satisfied Avitli "all his belong- 
 ings I do not wish to over-praise any of them, but he 
 would be mdecl a man of no taste was he not proud of 
 the approach to the chief of his cities. We at all events 
 gave It Its full mead of admiration. Directly before lis 
 lay the south end of Manhattan Island ; out of which 
 seen beyond a forest of masts, the light tracery of their 
 nggnig forming a thick net-work, rose numerous towers 
 and spu-es, tall rimnneys and lofty warehouses, while 
 several fortifie<l islands stretclu>d right and left in the 
 foreground, guardians of the great citv's wealth On 
 one of them, Governor's Island, stands a fort (>alled Castle 
 William, which is a conspicuous object, as it is sixty feet 
 high and has three tiers of guns ; but formidable, as it 
 looks, from its very height, I much doubt its strenath or 
 Its capability of withstanding for many hours the blitter- 
 mg of a steam-frigate's long guns. I trast it may never 
 >>e tried. It also has probably long guns, and would 
 prove that two can play at that same game of battering. 
 Un our left appeared .he mouth of tlie Hudson, and more 
 to our right, East River, which runs into Long Island 
 bound. On the west shore of the Hudson, opi>osito New 
 Urk, we saw Jersey City-a large place; and at the 
 north end of Long Island, the still larger town ol Brook- 
 lyn, both of which may be looked on as vast suburbs of 
 New York itself. Many of its chief merchants ha^-e their 
 residences in them. New York, stan<li„g on an island, is 
 almost surroun.led by wharves. Those on the East River 
 side are devoted to the use of sailing ships navigating the 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 23 
 
 ocean, those on tlie Huclson side to the use of steamers. 
 We noAv found ourselves advancing a little way up that 
 beautiful river towards our destined stopping jplace. I 
 hiid always fancied that New York consisted of intcr- 
 niinable streets of tjill red brick warehouses, like those 
 at Liverpool, with huge cranes wagging their heads out 
 of each story, ready to crush with bales of cotton the ill- 
 starred passers-by; but we were most agreeably dis- 
 api)(jint(;d, for, instead of this, to our pleased eyes, it wore 
 a very foreign and picturesque look. There were 
 mimerous steeples and towers, and old-fashioned gable? 
 and balconies, and large gaily-painted sign-boards ; but 
 the }ncturesqnencss of the scene was much heightened by 
 the rows of quaint stalls (so we called them) or docks, 
 each of which held a fantastic, junk-like steamer. The 
 tlivisions of these docks were formed by long wooden 
 piers, covered with ancient sheds of primiti\ u construction, 
 evidently intended more for use than ornament. We 
 speedily glided into one of the stalls, and warps being 
 carried to the quay, after a little pulling and hauling'^ 
 just as the clock on the neighbouring spires marked the 
 hour of ^ve., we found oursehes attached to tlie shores of 
 the New World. 
 
 For some minutes we stood silently looking at the big 
 shed and the broad-brimmed-straw-hat-and-nankeen- 
 trouser-wearing personages un^ler it, and the sign-boards 
 and towers, and high gables beyond, while we endea- 
 voured to realise to our minds the fact, that what we saw 
 was really and truly a portion of America, and that a 
 few steps would take us on shore. Had v^^e been tossed 
 and buffeted by waves and winds for many past weeks 
 or months, half-starved and near shipwrecked, as were 
 the old vo} agers one reads of, the truth would have been 
 
24 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 more credible; but we had reached our bourn so easilv 
 and so speedily, so comfortably and so safelv, so amply 
 fed and cared for, that it was indeed verv lUfficult to 
 persuade ourselves that we had bodily crossed that broad 
 Atlantic, which takes up so much space on the map of 
 the world. 1 scarcely think we were convinced of the 
 fact until, mmy weeks afterwards, we found ourselves, far, 
 far away, squattinor in a veritable Indian wig^vam and 
 nursmg a veritable pajwose, whose red-skinned mother 
 sat opposite grinning her approbation. As soon as the 
 ship was secured, th(^ ends of two huge boards were 
 hoisted up to her side, and the passengers and their lug- 
 gage were shot or slid ex],oditiouslv into the shed, our 
 gallant captain standing at the gang-wav to give each a 
 partmg farewell. I slid on shore witli the rest, and 
 havn.g engaged a vehicle, the driver aided me in findinc. 
 and then m uncording, our trunks, which a very '^WU 
 custom-house ofhcer examined as speedily and with as 
 little annoyance as possible. ]>>„t even civilitv could not 
 make amends fur the warmth of the weather." Oh, how 
 hot It was ! Dear reader, if you value your comfort, do 
 not attempt to unpack and unstraj), and to pack and strai, 
 up agam, eight trunks, portmanteaus, and carpet-bags 
 in succession, with the tliermometer at 90°, especially 
 after a chilly voyage across tlie banks of Newfoundland 
 [ felt as if no internal or external icing would ever bring 
 me down to a comfortable temperature aaain. At last 
 the work was finished, and returning for mv wife, we 
 bade farewell to the Atlantic. 
 
 New York abounds in hotels, some of which are the 
 largest m the world; but as size does not insure c(mifort 
 we had been advised to go to the Clarendon or New 
 lork Hotel, where, we were told, we should find as n.uch 
 
WESTERN WANDElMxNGS. 
 
 25 
 
 as we could reasonably desire. We, however, wanted to 
 see American life, and had therefor-, determined to go to 
 the bt. ^u^holus in Jiroadway, as being the newest, the 
 largest, and most gorgeous of all tlx- hotels in Americ^u 
 Ihitlier, nccordmgly, we proceeded. As we drove 
 through the city we were in no way disapj)oinred with 
 the Ulterior, as one often is with many towns after 
 admiring them at a distance. The broad streets, with 
 rows oi trees on either side, the green blinds and raihngs, 
 the j.amted sign-boards and otlier devices, and the infinite 
 variety of architectural adornments, ilhiminated by a 
 profusion of gas-lamps, gave it a novel and fantastic 
 appearance, which the clearer light of dav did not 
 greatly alter. Then there was the hurry and bustle, the 
 incessant hum and rattle of human voices and carriaoe- 
 wheels commingled, increasing as we advanced, which 
 made us sensible that we were in the heart of a large city. 
 At length we arrived in front of a sast palace, "a 
 blaze of light streaming from the interior. Our driver 
 pulled up, and telling me that this was the St. Nicholas 
 Hotel, advised me, before 'uiloadiiig the carriage, to 
 ascertain at the office whether we could obtain rooms'; of 
 which, though it affords sleeping accommod..ion to some 
 SIX hunt.red i)eople, he seemed by no means certain. I 
 entered, accordingly, a large marble hall, full of men 
 smoking in straw hats, with a long counter at one side, 
 at which a number of clerks was standing, with a row 
 of ^^•aiters sitting ojiposite, ready to (jbey the summons 
 issued by any of tlie hundred bells over their heads. I 
 inscribed our names in a large book presented bv the 
 head clerk, wlio, calling out the number of a room', told 
 a waiter to conduct me to it. Having unloaded our 
 carr;ige, which carried the whole of our luoL^nfe. and 
 
20 
 
 WESTEim WANDERINGS. 
 
 would have cavried twice as nmeli by aid of a platfurin 
 let down behind, wo entered the hotel bv a jwivate door 
 jwlnted out by the coaeliiuan, up a tliickly-carpeted 
 staircase. It nuist be understood tliat we felt not a little 
 travel-stained and unpolislied, and tluit our habiliments, 
 thou^rh well suited to (h'fend us from sea-spray iuid coal- 
 dust, wore in no way fitted to enter into society. We 
 were expecting to be led unol)ser\ ed to our (piiet rooms, 
 wlien, to our astonishment and no little dismay, we found 
 ourselves in the midst of brilliantlv -lighted corrido/s, 
 with richly-adoi.ied apartments opening on either side, 
 all crowded with ladies and gentlemen in evening cos- 
 tume, talking, laughing, and bowing. Some of them 
 took the trouble to look at us; but we certainly did not 
 appear to create any sensation. 
 
 " Why, we must have made a mistake, and got into 
 a house where a ba'l is going on!" exclaimed my wife. 
 " Do let us get aAvay again," 
 
 I was somewhat of her opinion, and after we had 
 made two or three turns amor.g the gay and laughing 
 throng without meeting any one to whom wo could appl^ 
 for information to direct our steps, I agreed to beat a 
 retreat, when I recognised the waiter I was to meet. He 
 quickly led us to our rooms, which were on the same 
 floor, in the very midst of the hubbub and bustle. Gladly 
 would we, at that moment, have exchanged this gorgeous 
 magnificence f(^r a neat, whitewashed, dimity-curtained 
 quiet chamber in a cool climate; but we wer-e too tired 
 and hot to attempt to moAc, even to another floor, after 
 we had once thrown ourselvos into two damask-covered 
 chairs which oflered some ten?i)tation to rest our weary 
 limbs. There we sat contemplating our apartment, while 
 some L-ish porters were bringing up our dingy black 
 
 ha 
 
VESTEIlN WANDERINGS. 
 
 27 
 
 tinTnks-ineoTigniou.s articles unions so much splendour, 
 l^rom an arabesque ceilin<r hung a gilt lamp, emitting 
 bright jets of gas; large mirrors in gilt frames adorned 
 each wall; richly-coluured damask curtains shaded the 
 wmdovvs; and damask-covered sofas and chairs were 
 scattered about; but iu the centre, four crooked legs 
 supported a small marble slab, the onlv and most com- 
 fortless apology for a table hi the room! Even the bed- 
 room had no dressing-table, and but a scanty washinir 
 apparatus. ^ 
 
 Fancying it was necessary to don a (K)stume fit to 
 encounter the gay throng at the tea or supper table, and 
 feelmg ourselves incapable of so much exertion, we rang 
 the bell, in the hope of getting some food brought to us. 
 After some time an Irish lad rolled into the room, and 
 placing a jug of iced water on the table, was rolling out 
 again, when I begged him to bring us tea. 
 ^ ^^"That ain't my business; but I guess I'll see about 
 It," was the reply, and he disappoare<l. 
 
 We Wiiited till our parched throats would let us wait 
 no longer, and I rang again. At the second summons 
 another Irish lad sauntered in with a further supply of 
 iced water, and he likewise promise<l to endeavour to get 
 our wants suj)plied; but he proved faithless as the fi^st. 
 A third time I rang, and a third youth came in, like the 
 first, with more water, huge lumps of ice floating in it, 
 as if we could not possibly retiuire anvthing else in that 
 hot weather. I, however, so pathetically entreated to 
 have some more substantial food, that at length he 
 induced a fourth waiter to come and receive oiu- orders. 
 A tea-pot, with a few broken bits of cake and rolls, were,* 
 after some time, placed on the table by the waiter, who 
 appeared to consider ' ' ' ^ 
 
 had done us a great fav 
 
 our m 
 
28 
 
 AVESTEILV AVAxNDKKIXftS. 
 
 bnuKing them. We were lain to eat -Juxt was put 
 bofoi-e us for by this tirae we were too hungrv and 
 weary to struggle further. I do not wi.sli to excitJ com- 
 miseration, hut rather to advise my friends to take warn- 
 ing by our example, and to conform to the rules of the 
 house. We should have acted more wisely had we gone 
 m our sea-stained garments into the public rooms, where 
 we sho.dd have got a very good tea and an excellent 
 snpper. What would it have mattered had the gaily- 
 dressed ladies and gentlemen chosen to take notice of us? 
 They wouhl have seen that we had just arrived and 
 were hungry; and they, knowing that our only chance 
 of getting iWi was by coming to the public room, would, 
 had they considered us worthy of further thought, 
 supposed that we were old travellers who knew the 
 country, and were doing exactly what, in our situation, 
 they would have done themselves. The fact is, that in 
 those vast American hotels, ample arrangements are 
 made to afford a supply of creature comforts for the 
 guests in public, which would be totally inadequate were 
 they to require their meals in their private rooms ; and 
 to prevent such a custom being introduced, everv dis- 
 couragement is thrown in the way of private feedincr. 
 Meals, therefore, sent to private rooms are often scanty, 
 cold, and ill-dressed; mid solitary eaters are compelled to 
 pay nearly twice as much as those who feed in public. 
 Experience teaches wisdom, and we resolved in future to 
 brave the criticism of beaux and belles ; and in spite of 
 dusty coats, crumpled gowns, and stain-marks of travel, 
 to satisfy the cravings of hunger wlierever the best pro- 
 vender could most speedily be found. 
 
 Having despatched the broken cakes and unsatisfac- 
 tory tea with such contentment as we could muster, we 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 29 
 
 rang for a cliamber-maia to })ut our rooms into liabltable 
 order. For many minutes \ e feared our ringiiiir would 
 have as niucli effect as Gleiidower sununoning spirits 
 from the vasty deej). Several Irish lads bobbed tlieir 
 heads into the room, and as s[)eedily vanished when thev 
 heard what we required; l)ut still no chamber-maid 
 aj)peared. At length a damsel glided into our presence, 
 and asked wliat we wanted. 
 
 " Cans of liot water, tulis and washing-stands, soap 
 and towels," &c. &c. I re[)lied. 
 
 " Well, I guess, you won't get them very easily to- 
 night, for the help on this floor has gone out to a party, 
 and T know nothing about things down here," she replied. 
 
 She looked as if she intended to be civil, so I beo;o-ed 
 her to try what her influence ccndd efiect foi- us, and she 
 therefore guessed slie would see what she could do. 
 The result was, that, though we oljtained what we 
 wanted, I had to put my basin on a damask-co\X'red 
 chair hi the uhsence of a washhand stand. The civil 
 damsel regretted much we had not arrived a few da-s's 
 before when there was a grand ball at the St. Nicholas. 
 We did not tell her how thankful we were at havino- 
 escaped such an infliction. We had little comfort, quiet, 
 or retirement now — what should we have found with 
 dancing, fiddling, and extra feeding, going on ? As it 
 was, we heard, till a late hour, the loud echo of laughing 
 voices and the tramp of feet; and every now and then 
 some one would put his head into tlie room, tmd having 
 contemplated us steadily, observe, " 1 guess I've made a 
 mistake; I thought this was a saloon;" till at last we 
 l)etljought ourselves of locking oui- door. We finally 
 resolved not to take u]) our abode at a fashionable hotel 
 in America, unless W' were pre])!U'ed to enter hito the 
 
30 
 
 W K aTf:R N WA N I)K R I XG S. 
 
 spirit of the occupants. I an, ohlicrc-.l to confess, tliat .ve 
 clKl not just then see that the cause of our nou-enjoy.nent 
 % .nore with ourselves tliau with the phice we were in: 
 imleed, the hotel was so full, that we had been placed in 
 the reoion of saloons, instead of on the bedroom floors 
 where we slioul.l have enjoyed more quiet au<l comfort.' 
 Oh, i.ow hot it was! The weather, however, had 
 become more temperate than it had been some weeks 
 previously, when hundnxls .>f persons had died from the 
 lieat. In spite of our fatigue, the .i^nats made it impos- 
 sible to sleep, and thoui.-h 1 conin.itted great havoc 
 among them, I found it as difficult to extirpate them as 
 It IS to destroy an army of Kaffirs. 
 
 About midnight i heard a loud shouting in the 
 street, mid, on going to the window, I saw a long pro- 
 cession defiling past, of men dressed in white, each of 
 whom held a torch which he waved above his head In 
 jront came a band of wind instruments, and, at intervals 
 banners with various inscriptions and emblematic designs' 
 but I could not decipher their meaning. There nmst 
 have been a thousand or more people in the procession. 
 Now an.l then they halted and shouted, and then marched 
 oil again in good order. I made in<p.iries next morning 
 who they were, but no one could or would give me any 
 information about them, and I consequent! v took it into 
 my head that they were members of the Lone Star 
 Association. I>erha,.s my i.lea may have been wrong, 
 and they were, only pacific members of some Trades' 
 l-nion ;y.t the steady mar. ■!,, the wavhig torches, and 
 the loud shouts, might Meli excuse me for fancyin^r them 
 a band of that ill-omened confederation. Ill-omened- 
 accursed, truly, it must be in the sight of God and man 
 unless report speaks falsely of its objects and desicms' 
 
WESTERN WANDEItlXGS. 
 
 31 
 
 , that ne 
 iijoyment 
 were in ; 
 placed in 
 m floors, 
 comfort, 
 ver, had 
 10 weeks 
 fioni tlie 
 it inipos- 
 ■t havoc 
 them as 
 
 in the 
 )iig pro- 
 each of 
 ad. In 
 itervals, 
 desifjns, 
 •e must 
 cession. 
 1 arched 
 lorning 
 me any 
 it into 
 e Star 
 wrong, 
 Prades' 
 'S, and 
 ; them 
 nied — 
 1 man, 
 asigns. 
 
 
 I dare say that sophistry may induoe many of tlie more 
 conscientious memhers to fancy tliose designs just, from 
 behoving that it is patriotic to endeavour to add to the 
 extent of their already nn"ohty Vulon. lint, putting aside 
 the obvious injustice of attacking with fire and'^sword 
 a peaceable peopK' for iio other' objc^ct, I susj.ect that 
 e\-ry increase of teiritory will tend to weaken the power 
 of the Union, and dimiin'sh rather than add to its wealth. 
 Sunday arrived at last, but no coolness came wafted 
 on the wings of the morm'ng. After ringing incessantly 
 for upwards of an h..ur, an Irish Ilobedchoy (one of the 
 call-boys, I believe they are called ; the same name given 
 to those employefl behind the scenes) poked his head 
 into the room, and informed us that, it being Sunday, 
 the chandier-maid was not yet up, and that till she was 
 we could not have what we wanted. The joung lady 
 was fatigued after her party, we concluded, so we sum- 
 moned the angel of patience, and waited. It seems ab- 
 surd to write about such trifles, but I own they were 
 annoying (>nough at the time. Yet probably an Ameri- 
 can in Enolnnd would find many greater reasons for 
 conij)laining. 
 
 (.)ur good-lmmour was speedily restored at the siuht 
 of the numberless delicacies sjiread out on many long tables 
 in the two superb breakfast-rooms of the hotel, to which 
 a gong sununoned us at an early h..ur. Water melons, 
 and sweet melons, and peaches, juid grapes, and pears, 
 were in ]»rofusion : there were hot meats, and cold meats, 
 and potatoes dressed in various ways; and delicious 
 bread, light and pure, in every vju'iety of form ; and 
 Graham rolls, made of brown meal, very nice ; and lioston 
 bread, also mamifactured with brown meal, or some 
 • mixtm-e with treacle far too lu;avy and luscious for my 
 
32 
 
 WESTEUX WAXDKIilXGS. 
 
 taste; and corn-bmul, made of niaizo-mcal, in attmotive 
 littlo sciuart's, very palatable; and Indian cakes, and rico 
 cakes, and })uckAvhoat cakes, in thickness like pancakes. 
 Tiie latter pleased my taste, and I was proposijig to send 
 some of the Hour home to niannfacture them, wjien 1 was 
 advised hy my American friends to despatch a Vankee 
 cook at the same time, as they were sure no Enfj;hshman 
 would ever tui'n them out in a satisfactory manner. 
 Dipped toasts was a favourite dish. It seemed to be 
 simply toast soaked in hot nn'lk. We pronounced it 
 very insipid. To wind up my list of comestibles, there 
 were eggs cooked in every vari(;ty of way — plain and 
 poached, and scrambled and fried. At all evimts, we 
 were enabled to make ample amends to our appetite's foi- 
 the very objectionable tea of the pi-evioiis evening. I 
 am not quite certain that a Scotch breakfast, or the 
 substantial meal in an English country-hodse, with some 
 ten or a dozen cold dishes on the welllfovered sideboard, 
 is not altogether more satisfactory than oven such as the 
 St. Nicholas can produce. Yet for u (diango we w«^re 
 well content to j.artake of the latter. 
 
 We found sitting opposite to us some of oui- fellow- 
 passengers, an American gentleman and his two daughters 
 —most polished people, with wliom w.^ had much pleasant 
 conversation about Italy and other places in the old world 
 they had visited. We were somewhat surprised at tlie 
 costume of many (,f the ladies — high dresst;s, with short 
 sleeves and inharmonious colours, detracted much from 
 the beauty many of them ]K>ssi^ssed. A large j,roportion 
 were ft-om the far South, fugitives from that nun-resj,ecter 
 of persons, the deadly- yellow fever. 
 
 One of the greatest of luxuries in hot weatlie)- is the 
 abundance of ice with which tjie thirsty uunates oi' hotels 
 
 
attniotive 
 S and rico 
 pancakes, 
 ig to send 
 Jien 1 was 
 a Vankoe 
 i^Jilishman 
 njanner. 
 ed to be 
 Minced it 
 1<'S, there 
 plain and 
 't^nts, we 
 •etites fbi- 
 juijig. J 
 , oi- the 
 itJi some 
 ideboard, 
 [^h as tlie 
 we w<»re 
 
 r t'eliow- 
 anght(>i> 
 pleasant 
 Id world 
 i at tile 
 itli short 
 ch from 
 oportion 
 os])ecter 
 
 y k the 
 
 
 WESTEKN AVAXDKKLvos. 33 
 
 "■0 bobbing .bout- r r ','""' "'*-j""' "■'■"' 
 
 o """iiL, ,in(i there were liii<r<. Ji,.>, v • 
 the centre of .^ch h'.if of f) 'Y\ V' "^ '"'' ^" 
 
 ranged a,.n,tiu.e:n;::'l;;ti!;::'t:"r':^ 
 
 were basins full oPir-e that ... • 1 ' '"''''' ^^'^'"' 
 
 rates. At l,e St. Nicholas it conmie.wed at six and 
 
 fontmued t ml.l.l.ix r i * "*"" 
 
 « nii muki.u. Luncheon was ready at one 
 
 <» clock, and there was a diimer at h... j , 
 
 Mag,„hc.„t bills of faro at di,,,,,.,- wore )m,Klo,l ,„ 
 
 "s- All tlio ,l,.,l,oa are carved out of the room , ,„! tl>,. 
 -rver,, appeared to „,e to di,,H.„.se their f-.v , 1 «, 
 -O' ..ne,,ual hands, or ol.. the .harper waiter, an .^ 
 '■' get ,«Kse.«,o„ of the best shares lor .hose ,n,d,T li;ir 
 
 "butmn o( favours arises, I was told, fron, a n.ode of 
 ;"l>c.,v praefsed by many old stage., an.on. tllAn 
 --, rfput,n,g a dolla,. note under their pl^es the fi::t 
 
 I) 
 
34 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 day of their ari'ival at an hotel. The sharp-ejed waiter, 
 whether white or black, speedily espies it, and nods his 
 firm resolve to attend to their inter(.'sts as long as they 
 remain. We were at the time iiot a('(piainteJ with this 
 ingenious mode of securing proper attendance; and I 
 cannot exactly understand how peotple can rectmcile it to 
 correct notions of justice, as certainly, if some guests are 
 unduly cared T ir, others mvist proportionnhly suffer. At 
 all events I never put a dollar note under my plate, and 
 though thereby ] now and then got the drumstick of a 
 turkey, aiid was told that the dish I particularly desired 
 was exliausted, 1 seldom failed to make a very fair 
 dinner. At most of the liotels we visited in the States 
 every one was as attentive and ol)liging as we could 
 desire, without expecting fee or reward. 
 
 The St. Nicholas is truly a vast establishment, com- 
 pletely casting into shadow the once far-famed Astor 
 House. It lakes its own gas and its own bread, and 
 washes th(^ iuien of its visitors, charging somewhat exor- 
 bitantly, by the by, for the last oi>eration. It contains, 
 moreover, a bridal-chamber of richest decoration, for the 
 use of which one hundred dollars a-nioht are charged. 
 1 heard of only one couple wdio have occupied it. The 
 whole house is a mass of (jilding — idh caudelabras, and 
 mirrors wdth gilt frames and gilt cornices, marlile tables, 
 ;uid rich hot damask curtains and chair and sofa covers, 
 and thick gaily-colonn.'d curtains. Never had 1 been in 
 a mansion so abounding m gilding and gaudy hues. 
 
 It being Sunday, we had jnu'posed attending the 
 church under the minisrrv of Dr. T\nue, our fellow- 
 jiassf 'Tiger, he having kindly offered us seats in his pew. 
 The heat, however, was far too great to allow us to 
 attend the ser\'ice with the hope of any moral ov physical 
 
?d. waiter, 
 nods his 
 g as tlioy 
 with this 
 :;; and I 
 icile it to 
 quests ;ire 
 iler. At 
 ilate, and 
 tick of a 
 y desired 
 very tail' 
 lie States 
 kve conld 
 
 Rnt, corn- 
 ed Astor 
 ■ead, and 
 luit exor- 
 contains, 
 1, tor the 
 charfred. 
 It. The 
 l>ras, and 
 le tables, 
 a covers, 
 1 been in 
 les. 
 
 ling the 
 ' t'ollow- 
 his pew. 
 w lis to 
 physical 
 
 WESTERN AVANDERINGS. 35 
 
 and ...d, and tned „.ost assiduonsly to become cool. 
 Vain, vani was the attempt. We drank iced water 
 and washed our faces therein, and held big lump, of ice 
 I" ou. hands till the lumps dissolved iiUo strLn of 
 topid water; but,ahts! when we had consumed all our 
 - we were as hot as ever. At length, somewhat re- 
 vivcd by some cool water-melon at luncheon, we resolved 
 to stroll h.rrh before the dinner-hour, to see what sort of 
 a place this far- famed New Y.>rk might be 
 
 Out we went, therefore, and walkc-d up Broadway 
 and down Broadway, and looked along a uumber of 
 cross streets ; most uf n hich were hned with fresh green 
 trees cool and pleasant, and shade-giving. We ;ame 
 speedily to the conclusion that BroadNvay, if „ot as fine a 
 street as we had been led to suppose," was a very pic- 
 tnresque one. its footway, nlso, are shaded by rows of 
 trees. hen there is an inhnite variety of architecture 
 displayed in tlie buildings; the houses are of all sizes and 
 heights, n.) two alongside of each other, or facing each 
 othei- bemg alike. Some are truly suj,erb palaces, with 
 marble fa(;ades, and almost as extensive as one side of 
 Fortman S^p.are. l^he shop-fronts and their signboards, 
 c-ach vie with the other in the elaborateness^ of thrir 
 <lesigns, the brilliancy of their paint, and the size of the 
 gilt letters by which the ])ublic are made aware of the 
 names of their owners and the valuable ai-ticles they 
 ha\(^ to sell. Tlie streets were ci-owded, chieriy witli 
 artisans; the beards which most of them wore, and their 
 >tyle of rhvss, gave them more tin; appearance of French- 
 men^ than Anglo-Saxons. Many, probably, Aveiv French 
 nr Germans, a great number (»f whom are* settled in New 
 ^'•rk. Indeed, few cities contain people of so many 
 
36 
 
 WESXERiSr WAXDEItiyGS. 
 
 different races. I was struck by the swaggering, inde- 
 pendefit air with which most of them walked ; h)oking, I 
 fancied, as if they would have had no little satisfaction in 
 gouging out one's eye, or smashing in one's nose, in the 
 case of a rowdy-row being got up in a hurry. The part 
 of the population most novel and most amusing to us 
 were the Negroes, who, dressed in their Svmday best, 
 came tripping by, men and women, with smiling coun- 
 tenances, grhining teeth, and round rolling eyes. They 
 were the only people who looked careless and happy. 
 What was the heat to them? What cared they for 
 president - electing, governor - choosing, dollar- making, 
 Texas annexation, or the other weighty matters which 
 kept away the smiles from the visages of their fellow- 
 citizens ? Neai'ly all the white men we saw wore straw 
 liats, white vests, goaty beards, and nankeen terminations; 
 while the blacks Avere generally clothed in white trousers, 
 gaily-tinted vests, black hats, and were free from beards 
 of any sort. The sign-boards are highly ornamented 
 after the fashion of Paris — somewhat in the extreme, 
 perhaps — and nearly every other name was French or 
 German. 
 
 Simday out-^if-doors appeared to be kept much in the 
 same way that it is in an English town, everybody we 
 met seeming to be orderly and well-disjx)sed towards 
 each other. Inside our hotel the ladies and gentlemen 
 [)araded the corridors, and flirted and laughed much as 
 usual. Episcopacy is decidedly the most fashionable 
 church establishment in New York: the city contains no 
 less than fifty-two Episcopalian churches. In Boston the 
 Unitarian c^reed predominates, and is professed by many 
 of the most wealtliy citizens. Our friend. Dr. Tvnue, 
 appeared to be a great favourite with his congregation. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 37 
 
 Once in every two or three years they raise a sub- 
 scription, and, i)resenting him with a purse, give him 
 leave ot' absence to travel and recruit his liealth. Fancy 
 a set of English parisliioners franking tlieir vicar or his 
 curate on his travels for his liealth and amusement to 
 Greece or Egypt. 
 
 An ornament in Broadway wiiich especially attracted 
 my eye was a lofty pole, once a giant of tsome far-off pine- 
 forest, now surmounted by a flaming "cap of liberty. 
 Pr(jbably it w^as erected by some red-hot Red Republican 
 from France, sent across the Atlantic to cool his aidour, 
 for the Americans have too much of the reality 1 should 
 think to care about so ])altry a symbol. Tliere it stood 
 like some monster fishing-rod, waving high above the 
 roofs of all the surrounding houses, to pro\X' how nnich 
 esteemed i^ liberty, equality, and fraternit)-, even hi the 
 barbarous regions of the West. 
 
 If the accounts 1 heard were^ correct, I fear that the 
 morality of the i)opulation of Xew York is not better than 
 riuit of many l^^uropean cities; nor is there much less 
 suffering, or even poverty. Vice is rampant among all 
 classes, and folly seems to reign over those who wish 
 to be considered the exciusives and fiishionables. It 
 is no longer an American, Init a perfect cosmopolitan, 
 city ; and if it contaius all the luxuries, so it does all tlie 
 vices which can be imported from other lands. This is 
 the true dollar-making, money-worship[)iug centre of the 
 world— the n\Ighty city of Mauunon. Here wealth, and 
 wealth alone, is respected; and wealth forms the only 
 mark of nol)ility, the only difference in the social scale. 
 If a man abounds in riches, no matter how procured, he 
 is a merchant-prince ; if he is destitute of it, he is a low 
 
38 
 
 AV EST E R N AV A S DE R r SO S. 
 
 scoundrel, at whose approach it is wise to take caro of 
 one's ])ockets. 
 
 There is, however, fashion at New York, and tJiere 
 are fashionable j)eop]e. How they pass their time, the 
 uiitJiors of ^' The Upper Ten Thousand'' and " The Poti- 
 l)har i^ifHTs" give us some notiun. Botii tiiese are 
 admirabh^ ^vorks, written hy Americans, somewhat after 
 the maniH-T of TJiackerav. 
 
 1 have too much regard for the Ainerieans, and too 
 grateful a sense of the kindness 1 received from many I 
 met, to sav a word agaiiist them which their own jx-ople 
 would not utter. In fact, fi-om my own personal expe- 
 rience, I know nothing of society in New York, and can 
 only six>ak of what I heard. There are exceptions to 
 every rule, and I have n,, doubt, in spite of what I liave 
 said, that there is a considerable numl)er of the well-to- 
 do citi/ens of New York who si^-nd respectable, useful 
 lives, and in no way deserve the censure of these 
 satirists. 
 
 There is a class of men who do a considc^rahle amount 
 ot nnsclnef, and whom it is difficult enough to keep in 
 order. They are somewhat like the Alsatians ..f old 
 Loudon city, and are well known under the name of 
 "Rowdy boys." They w<.uld speedily he put down did 
 there exist an efficient iK^lice in New York ; but unfor- 
 tunately the very materials for such a force are wanting. 
 No true American fit for the duty would think it worth 
 his while to turn policeman, because with half the labour 
 and v\ ithout daily risk of a broken head, he could make 
 twice as many dollars by his own independent exertions ; 
 and though Gennans and Irish might be foun-l willin-r 
 enough to accept the office, as they are to take service 'm 
 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 3y 
 
 
 the ranks of the army, I was assured that if such a force 
 were to be sent to keep order among a band of those 
 excitable gentry, tliey would instantly be annihilated. 
 If Americans could be got to act as policemen, American 
 rowdys nn'ght consent to be kept in order. 
 
 New York should not be stigmatised as prominently 
 bad. It should rather be said that it is a large city, with a 
 mixed population, many individuals of which, imperfectly 
 educated, possessed of much wealth quickly acquired, 
 spend it foolishly, if not a iciously ; that there is a large 
 number of wild spirits, easily able to support themselves, 
 and restrained from doing that which is pleasing in their 
 sight by no respect for laws, human or divine; and, 
 fmally, that Ireland las been pouring annually many 
 thousands of the ])ooj-est of her ignorant and debased 
 population into the city, a considerable percentages of 
 whom remauis in her courts and alleys festering and cor- 
 rupting, as they do at home; while strangers from all 
 paits of the globe are daily arriving, some the offstxnir- 
 ings of their native lands;— my surprise is, not that dis- 
 orders exist, but that so much order is maintained among 
 so mixed an ii,ssetid)lage. This, I fully believe, is owing 
 to the good sense of the American part of the population ; 
 and I do think that even the greatest admirers of 
 monarchies nmst actknowledge that Keprblicans have 
 this advantage over those who llva imder other Ibrms of 
 government — that they learn to govern themscdves. IJut 
 1 must return to orir narrative. 
 
 After our walk in Broadway a gong summoned us to 
 dinner. A master of the ceremonies — or steward or 
 h(}ad- waiter he may have been — stood at the door to 
 direct us to the seats we were to occu[)y. I had never 
 sat down with so large a party in my life i)efore. Even 
 
 
40 
 
 AV'ESTERN WANDEIIINGS. 
 
 the extensive dining-rooms at the German waterincr- 
 places sn,k into perfect insiginficance wl.on conmared 
 with the sumptuous J.alls of the St. Mclmlas. The 
 latter also, far surpass them in decoration, cleanhness. 
 attendance, and style of provision. In Germany one ,rets 
 tarts and puddings in tlie middle of dinner: here the 
 oourses succeed each other in the order observed in 
 l^.nghnid. In Germany oacli disl, is lumded round: here 
 one orders from a bill of fare. But tl^e great difficulty I 
 found at first was to know what first io order so as^ to 
 secure a sufficient supply of satisfactory food. Tlie 
 greatest mconvenience, also, from the st^'fe of dinin.r of 
 which I am speaking is, that a person wiih a fair appetite 
 really lias not time to talk or think about any ot],er 
 matter than the cliaracter of the food lie is discussin^., or 
 that he contemplates eating if he can get it. We, I nmst 
 own, coidd do little more than select our food from the 
 gaily-decorated carte, and eat it up. Our neighbours 
 seemed generally to be equally assiduously employed. 
 Indeed anything like general conversation was out of the 
 <luestion. I .vas roninded of the re,>ly a friend of mine 
 received at a cpiality ball in the West Indies from hi. 
 sable partner, -Hold your tongue, massa; me come 
 here to diuxne, not to talkie." Everybody- and we 
 certainly did not pretend to be excei,tions to the general 
 rule-evidently came to eatie, not to talkie. There was 
 a profusion of fruit, especially of peach(.s; but they were 
 inferior in size and f' ivour to Enghsh wall j^eaches. 
 
 \^ e had been told that it was necessary to dress in 
 evening eostume for these large hotel dinners; but we 
 found that most of the gentlemen appeared in gingham 
 coat., light haiKlkerchiefs, ;md many without waist<mts-- 
 a higiily commendable mode in this liot weather. At 
 
WESTERN WANDE1!1NGS. 
 
 41 
 
 fashionable waterin^-pl^.eos fashionable j,e(.]>lo probablv 
 paj more attention to tlieir toilette. Many of the ladie^, 
 however came ont in very elaborate V-ostmne; and 
 though there might to our eye ha^■e been a want of bar- 
 inonj m the colours they wore, aiid son,e of the dn-sses 
 imght not altogether have been afror the style in which 
 the first of Parisian modisUs attires her customers, we 
 could not but adun're the nianerous young and prettv 
 faces above which fluttered many a tasteful and uii-'y 
 rrench ca]». 
 
 Before dark Ave again strolled out. The streets were 
 qmet^and orderly, though thickly thronged with foot- 
 passengers, (nnnib ses, and Aehicles of all descriptions, 
 from the heavy coach to the light, spider-like gig. 
 
 We were struck by the brilliant ai.pearance of'^some 
 of the cotiee-houses and re^tauranU. I d„ubt if the 
 Boulevards of Paris can show anything more magnificent 
 or m better taste. Probably these ysvvo established bv 
 Frenchmen; 1)ut cest ,'gal The wise boast of the 
 Americans is, we import from all pai-ts of the world every 
 article of luxury or convenience they can produce, and 
 what good things we don't happen to invent we show our 
 sense by appreciating. 
 
 In one respect the streets disappointed us. Though 
 lew thoroughfares can exhibit so many fine buildings as 
 Broadway, many of the houses are dis])roportionably low 
 and insignificant; the ])avement is in many places of 
 wood, not more convenient than in several of the far- 
 west towns we visited ; while from o)ie end to the other 
 houses being erected, and pii(«s oJ' brick and forests of 
 scaffolding impeding tlu> Avay, gave it the appearance of a 
 city lately s])rung into existence. Probably Axhile I 
 write tlie disorder may have tlisappeared, and Broadway 
 
42 
 
 WESTERN WANDEKINGS. 
 
 may be shining forth more brilh'ant and pollslicd than 
 over. 
 
 The^ hi'Ht and f'atiom. ,h-uve ns soon back to our 
 hotel. Tea, with suitable liulit coniestibh^s, was set out 
 m the broakfast-rooni ; but, to my dismay, 1 could procure 
 nothn.g bnt green, thouorh the waiters stoutly denunl its 
 verdant hue. The long corridors and some dozen or 
 more public parlours were brilhantly lighted up, and the 
 ladies and geiitlemen passetl the evening in walking up 
 andclown, ur sitting in gr..Lips on the ottomans, laughing, 
 flu'tmg, and fknning themsi'hes m(^st assiduously with 
 huge pidmettu-leaf tlu.s. We joined the throng tor a few 
 mnmtes, and then retired to our rooms to try and read: 
 — and thus ended our first day in America. 
 
lan 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 So intense did we still find the heat on IVIonday morning, 
 that we agreed it would bo impossible to endiire another 
 four-and-twcnty hours at New York. I sent, therefore, 
 to inquire when the steamers started up the Hudson, 
 when, to our disapiwintment, I found that no vessels were 
 then navigating the river during the day, as the greater 
 number of passengers, for the sake of economising time, 
 prefer travelling by niglit. 
 
 The route we j)urposed following was up the Hud- 
 son to Albany; thence?, by rail and coach, to Lake 
 George; through that lovely sheet of water and Lake 
 Champlain, to I'lattsburg; and on again, by rail, to 
 Montreal. We resol ved, however, as we had intended, 
 to start that very night, with the hope that we might be 
 able to return down the Hudson some future day. In 
 the meantime we set to work most diligently, in spite 
 of the broiling heat, to lionize the city. 
 
 The streets in New Yoi-k stand mostly at right 
 angles with each other. Those running east and west 
 are called Avenues, and are numbered thus,— Second, 
 Fourth, and Fifth Avenue, and so on to the Tenth. The 
 streets are mostly honoured by names, but some thirty 
 
44 
 
 WE8TE1JN AVAIfDEKINUS. 
 
 m the newer part of tlie city are aistin^nii.^licl only bv 
 numerals, from First Street to Tliirtletli Street, 'l 
 should nev.-r reeolleet tlie address of mv friends living i.i 
 sueli undistiiiiiuishable quarters. Anion^r the s.,uares, 
 VVaslungton S^iuare, Howard Square, and the Battery, 
 sound well, but 'J\)ujj.l<ins Square does not strike eupho- 
 inously on ears aeeustomed to the aristocratie names of 
 Grosvenor, Berkeley, and Belgra ve. 
 
 Up the Fourth, Sixth, Eighth, and Tenth Avenues 
 run long lines of railway connnunicating witli the busi- 
 ness parts of the city. The rails are laid down in the 
 centre of the road without any paling or in'otection; but 
 as the huge vehicles win'eh run ..)i them, each holdincr 
 some fifty people or so, are dragged by horses, foot-pas- 
 sengers are ni^t more en.hmgered by tjiem than they are 
 by the onuiihuses whicJi ply in the other streets. The 
 first time I saw one of those ears (for so railway car- 
 nages are called) moving along a crowded tluM'oughfare, 
 I fancied that it nmst be some monster caravan belomr.' 
 ing to a wild-beast show. " 
 
 TJie omnibuses in New York are very superior to 
 any the London 'bus-proprietors choose to tui-n out. 
 They are broad, high, and Avell ventilated, and the pas- 
 sengers are provided with the means of stopping the 
 vehicle hyaline fastened to the driver's arm, and run- 
 ning along the roof, while the other end is secured to 
 the door. The tendency of the door is to swing open, 
 and thus, when a person wishes to get in, the" driver 
 Slacks the line and lets him enter. When a passenger 
 desires to get out, he pulls at the line, and ha^■ing paid 
 hjs fare through a little trap in the roof behind the 
 driver's seat, the door is allowed to open, and he descends 
 by a flight of broad steps, with a good rail to hold on by. 
 
only by 
 
 -I'CCt. 1 
 
 living in 
 s(|uares, 
 Battery, 
 
 ouplio- 
 lanios of 
 
 Avenues 
 he busi- 
 
 1 in the 
 on; but 
 
 lioldhig 
 "oot-j)as- 
 they are 
 . The 
 ay r;ar- 
 iglif'are, 
 belonii- 
 
 erior to 
 I'u out. 
 he pas- 
 ng the 
 rid run- 
 ured to 
 2J open, 
 driver 
 ssengor 
 ig paid 
 nd the 
 iscends 
 on by. 
 
 WKSTEKN WAXDEKIiVGS. 
 
 45 
 
 Thus no conductor is required, and the proprietors save 
 the expense of his wages. These omnibuses are craily 
 panitcd nis.de and out, the pannel on the door generally 
 luvnig a p„.ture intended to represent Jenr.y Lind, 
 t anny Jvenible, General Jackson, or some other cele- 
 brity. Up and down Broadway they run without ces- 
 sation all day, and most of the night. In one of them 
 we took our seats soon after breakfast to dri^e to the 
 Great Exhibition of New York. 
 
 I invariably received niuch attention and civility 
 from any stranger I happened to address in ].ublic con"- 
 veyances in tlie States. Que cannot but be struck bv 
 the general intelligence of all classes, and the amount (".f 
 mformation they poss-ss about all matters (doming under 
 their iuunediate notice. The same men are, however, 
 not a little prejudiced, and their un'staken notions with 
 regard to England— her nobles and landed gentrv, her 
 labourers and paupers — would be amusing' in the ex- 
 treme, were they not somewhat prejudicial to the good 
 understanding which should exist between the two coun- 
 tries. In most of the kingdoms of Europe the ionorance 
 or wrong-headedness of the mass of the iKjpuUuion has 
 hut little influence on the ]K)litical relations of the Com- 
 monwealth ; but in the United States, where every man 
 has real practical power, it is of vital importance to the 
 well-being of the State that all shoidd be well informed 
 on public nuitters at home, and on tlie constitution of 
 foreign countries: i'. is, therefore, with regret that I see 
 that the public ))ress in America does Jiot attempt t(. 
 instruct the million as to the institutions of England and 
 the character of her people. I am very certliin, from 
 what 1 saw of America and Americans, that the better 
 V* e become ac(iuainte(l witli each other the firmer friends 
 
4G 
 
 WESTERN W A NDE ICINGS. 
 
 WO Hhallbe, and the more we sliaJI appreeiate eacli otlier's 
 {»o«h1 (|nalities. 
 
 The Exliihition is at tlie east end of tlie city, and, as 
 we drove towards it, we passed the ends of iimnerous 
 streets, full of dweHint^'-hoiises and shaded with trees. 
 The houses were generally of two stories, built of stone, 
 with green blinds to the \\indows, and they have a very 
 substantial, ronifortable look. 
 
 Nearly all the streets, except thos(^ built within the 
 
 last ten yt.'ars, have trees planted on either side. Latterly, 
 
 that most admiral»le custom in a hot climate has been 
 
 much neglected, and in some of the business j)arts of the 
 
 city the trees have saci-ilegiously been cut down to bui-n 
 
 ofR'rings on the altar of the false god of the Heatlien, 
 
 Mannnon. I'he trees are, I consider, the great beauty 
 
 of New York. Their bright fresh foliage must remind 
 
 the dwellers among the dry, hot, glaring buildings of the 
 
 city of the cool green fields, the laughing sti-eams, the 
 
 quiet, the iimocence of the coimtry ; and, perhaps, some 
 
 engaged in the rabid })ursuit of wealth, may, as they 
 
 smell their sweetness and ft>el their shade, recollect that 
 
 there are better things than gold, a liappier life than that 
 
 of the city. 
 
 Longfellow must be amused at seeing the odd adap- 
 tations of the title of one of liis most beautiful poems — 
 among others we [)assed in our drive the "Excelsior" 
 Bakery, and I fully expected to see the " Hyperion" 
 Brewery. 
 
 The Exhibitio)! building luis no j/retension to beiiif 
 called a Crystal Palace. The outside is not attractive. 
 It has the look of a huge barn theatre — a big wax-work 
 show, \'an-covei-cd, with brown and red paint. It is 
 injudiciously placed close to vhe Croton ^^"ater-^^■orks, 
 
WESTEUX WANDKJJINOS. 
 
 47 
 
 ch otl 
 
 ler's 
 
 jy and, as 
 imneroua 
 ith f:rees. 
 of stone, 
 re a very 
 
 itliin the 
 Latterly, 
 has been 
 I'ts of the 
 1 to burn 
 lleatlien, 
 t beauty 
 t remind 
 gs of the 
 aiiis, tlie 
 .j)S, some 
 as they 
 llect that 
 ban that 
 
 Id acUij)- 
 
 [XUMUS — 
 
 \celsi()r" 
 ypei'ion " 
 
 to being 
 tractive, 
 ax-work 
 . It is 
 
 ^-^^■orks, 
 
 wliich have, fi.r .)vertuppinrr if, n, lofty Chinese-looklng 
 tower, containinrr the pipes through which the water is 
 forced to supi)ly the upper parts .»f the city. The reser- 
 voir itself is a magniHcent work, co.iij.Jsed of mights- 
 blocks of hewn stone, formed somewhat like the base of 
 one of tlio proudest of Egypt's temples. 'J^his edifice, 
 solid and grand, built to endure for ages, made the other 
 by contrast look tawdry and ephemeral. The interior 
 was, however, far more pleasing than 1 expected, although 
 to my taste rathei- too profusely decorated witli arabescjue 
 and otlier meaningless designs. In size it does Jiot bear 
 comparison to the original for it is smaller even than the 
 Dublin Exhibition of 1853; still, had I not seen the 
 others, 1 should have considered it a large edilico to be 
 built of wood and glass, and a v(>ry creditable affair. 
 The centre is the higliest part, with four broad roads 
 brandling from it, forming a cross, and galleries shnilar 
 to that of London. 
 
 Many of the contents are of great interest. The 
 (.•entre ornament is api)ropriate— a statue of Wasliington, 
 at which 1 looked, now first seen on his native soil, witli 
 that resj)ect and atbniration one nmst teel for so areat 
 and good a man. 
 
 Some ohl friends also I recognised — Kiss's statue of 
 the Amazon and l^^nther now astonishes and amuses 
 the unsophisticated minds of the New York damsels. 
 '' I can't make it out; is the beast a-kissing the horse, or 
 tl;e horse the beast?" ask.(M.l a wortliy dame, who now 
 came for the first time in lu^r life to view a collection of 
 works of art. Power's "Greek Slave" has also recrossed 
 tlu' Atlantic, and now stands pre-eminently beautiful 
 among a group of his works, but uidbrtunately several 
 are so nmcli larger tliat tliey overpower hei-. There is 
 
48 
 
 WESTER>T WANDERINGS. 
 
 a boy with a slioll, and an Eve, who looks mgantk in her 
 presence, thoiigli the figures bj themselves are graceful 
 and excellent. 
 
 I examined some life-boats and their carriages built 
 for the United States' Government, and I recognised the 
 same birch-bark canoe which hung up in the Canadian 
 department of the London Exhibition. 
 
 The galleries are high nnd broad, and the whole side 
 of one is devoted to paintings. Several we thought 
 good, but had Jio time to give more than a cursorj glance 
 over them. Below them was tlie conipartme.it for 
 uiachmery. Shavings lying about and carpenters at 
 work reminded us of the early days of its predecessor. 
 
 We were told that if we ventured into the buildin<^ 
 we should be roasted alive, but we found it the coolesit 
 spot on whicli we had set our feet since we landed. 
 
 As we expected to see it again, we were content with 
 our burned visit, and entering a Fifth-Avenue omnibus, 
 we drove down that most aristocratic of thorou-rhfares 
 l>assmg a number of the palaces of the merchant-princes 
 (as the Aew Yod^ers delight to call them), situated in it 
 and m streets branching off right and left from it. Those 
 houses are mostly built of white stone, and have a verv 
 handsome appearance. 
 
 We reached the St. Is'icholas in time only for the fag 
 end of the early diiuier; but we were fain to eat wha*! 
 we could get and be thaiikful. Haviiiir then packed up 
 our goods and ehattels as well as the heat would let us, 
 we rumbled do^vn in a big coach to the pier whence llu- 
 .Vlbany stoainer was to start. 
 
 On getting out of the carriage .-it six o'clock, I wa. 
 salut(>d by a tall gaunt man, askitig, in a rude and 
 authoritative tone, wher.- we were going to. At thv 
 
 all 
 
ntic in her 
 •0 graceful 
 
 iages built 
 
 guisL'd the 
 
 Canadian 
 
 vliole side 
 '■ thoucrht 
 ny glance 
 ;nient for 
 'enters at 
 cessor. 
 ' building 
 be coolest 
 led. 
 
 tent with 
 omnibus, 
 iighfares, 
 it-princes 
 ated in it 
 :. Those 
 'e a verv 
 
 r the lag 
 eat wliat 
 leked u]» 
 I'l let us, 
 ence the 
 
 k, I was 
 
 lido and 
 
 At tlu' 
 
 ^^'^'I'^^N WANDERINGS. 49 
 
 ..ortor, wore „»„.;„„ trv L ! '^ TV""' '™'' 
 
 .•v-.v.,„.ly vooif,.va,;„ ,:7,.™ ''"'•■'' '="• ^*— •• 
 ■ A. r . *^ ^'' ^"t" steamer Wiis <>« +1. 
 
 And now, what is it you ask'^" .ni,l T , ■ 
 hiau ' V, tunmig to 
 
 _ " I presume, sir, vou are bound for (^an-ida Wl : i 
 
 "ToM„i,treal,"s,ii,l J. 
 
 " Tla.,, as ,vou will Hnd i, .,„,,,,■ i,„,«,n,le ,„ e„rrv 
 
 lickclnl, ai„l taki. ll,,. dioiks. V„„ „,ii „, , , 
 
 li.finv I had ti,„e to rcpl,, each package had a brass 
 
 1.0 nh a number s,ra|,,,od „„ „, i,, duplicates bei,,,, 
 l'a.uled .. ,„e, t,,„„„,, ij ,,.^^ ,,^^^ ^ *, 
 
 ^"V".gs .hat I led tbe greater part ot„ur prcJr " f the 
 •J- ."..rev nf s,ra„,ers, takiu. under'eul .^ u ■ r 
 Iv te« necessar, a.-ticles. Kven these I fe„„d „,„ d 
 
 ":"«■ P..M,„o „u,. eabiu, but were seized „p„„ by te 
 >n« F.rtors, and carried „ft; bv ,hc adn„. f „ , 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 friend, to be placed under charge of the barber of the 
 steamer. 
 
 FoHovving our portmanteaus and bags, we found our- 
 selves among [)iles of bales, casks, and packages of every 
 descriptiun ; and I was wondering wh^n we sliould reach 
 the vessel, when we discovered that we were already on 
 board and half across her decks. Leaving my wife in 
 the ladies' saloon, I followed the porters through a 
 narrow lane of boxes, past the luige mass of intricate 
 machinery, till at length, somewhat in the fore part of 
 the vessel, we reached the spot where tlu^ barber reigned 
 supreme — a good-sized cabin, with washing-places at- 
 tached to it. 
 
 The barber was a man of coloin*, and so was liis 
 assistani, as 1 believe are all biU'bers in the States, A 
 gentleman was imdergoing the lathering process, and 
 others were standing ready for its performaiu-e, discussing 
 meanwhile thf ati'airs of the nation. 
 
 Oui cousins know the value of time, and so every 
 steanujr is provided with a barber, that when travelling 
 the\' mav not only sleep and eat on board, but jxet 
 signed, and be ready on landing to commence the work 
 of the day. Washing is a sim))le process, and one towel 
 serves for many fac.'es and hinids. 
 
 The barber having }>romised to deliver my luggage 
 t(» me on demand, I dismissed mv Irish i>orters, thev 
 requesting half a dollar each as moderate com[)ensation 
 for the task they had performed. " Get money — h<mestly 
 if you can, but gi^t money," seems fo be the rule with all 
 dasst's in ISew York. I bought my experience at the 
 St. Nicholas, and in every money transaction during the 
 two days I was there. 
 
 I now tiirea<UKl my way hnd<. among the ))il(s and 
 
WESTERN WANDEKJNGS. 
 
 51 
 
 I 
 
 piles of goods to wl,eve I had left my wife havin,, r 
 must own a ve,v i„d;sti„et „„„•„., .. tol,.. 'p,!: «i, 
 vasi laOnc we wero in Ti.^ i 
 
 were in. Ihe vessel was crowded with 
 
 XV rT' ' *^"' ™' ""'■' "»" to !«= I'ad. 
 
 VV e had now time to loolc „l,„ut us. I f„u„d l]nt we 
 wore „„ what „,av he ealled the ,„ai„.doclc. It *, 
 .mm«hatel^ above the wate,-, whieh it over n!s „ 
 enher sale eo„side,-ahly, extending to the exttjc^id h 
 of the pudd e-box platforms. It is o,.„ at the .sides ; h 
 s to say, the dock above is supported by pillars, 'pa^ 
 ar. however, closed in; l„,t thev do not extend the 
 wl^ole width of the vessel, leavin, a .s^^ of 1 1 . 
 runmn, all the way round. I„ the after^rt fZ 
 ck ts the lad,es- saloon, wi,ile the maehine y and sJme 
 ther per ,o„s forward are more or less cloLl in \ 
 I ur of foldiusHloovs ,livides the ladies' saloon_in whieh 
 out a m„lr«l beds were made „p-f,.o,n „„ JZ 
 leek. The „uts,de .s han.lsomely decorated, „,aki„„ i, 
 look .somen hat hke the front of a theatre. 0„ eiti.e" 
 Mle a fl,,ht of steps leads to the saloon above. 
 
 We ascended, and found, to onr astonishment, a vast 
 all-for so ,t „,ay r.ghtly be called -with an arched 
 ""» supported by iron pillars, and joined bv li, ,t 
 Uaeery-work arcl,,. like that of a (Jothie eathecLal. The 
 centre of the roof is composed of coloured glass. This 
 uumense saloon runs the whole length of the vessel. The 
 Msta ,s l,o«ever, interrupted by ,l,e „,aehinery whi.-l, 
 «ses through tt to the .leek abo,e, though „, either 
 I are ,.„..,d passages. 81eeping-cabins-„r 1 wonld 
 ..her call them cabins eont.aining beds-open frou, each 
 >"le of the saloon, and are ,lnbbed -'state-rooms- At 
 each end of tUn w..l : i ... '' 
 
 oou IS a platform or t! 
 
 ri-ace 
 
 viiti a 
 
52 
 
 WESTEKX WAND ,IUNG8. 
 
 roof over the after-one ; and here ]>eopie may si' n the 
 open air view ij jit the scenery. No passerg(u-s are uHoM'ed 
 on tlie roof of the saloon ; but there is yet anotlier deck, 
 or part of a deck, on which is placed the wlieel-house, 
 where stands the helmsman, perched high above every- 
 ihln^, so as to obtain a clear look-out aliead. To tliis 
 upper deck only the crew and officers have access. 
 
 I have not yet half described the saloon. It is ele- 
 gantly painted ii' white and gold with arabesque patterns; 
 and the flt)or is covered with a rich carpet. From one end 
 to the otlier, also, are placed sofos, and chairs, and settc'es, 
 of every sha|)e and design. Nor are spittoons — tliose 
 elegant Jittle usefulnesses in an American sitting-room — 
 forgotten. Thev are made of white-and-o;old china. 
 
 Before oin- survey was com])leted the stewardess 
 brought us the key of a state-room which she had 
 secured. It was truly an elegant littk" room, pahited 
 with Avhite and gold: the curtains were of gauze. It 
 had a looking-glass in a gilt frame, and appeared neat 
 and clean. We deposited our carpet-bags tlierein, con- 
 templating with no little satisfaction a (^uiet and cool 
 night's rest 
 
 The gong soon sounding for tea, we rushed down 
 with the rushing throng, first to the main-deck, and tlitn 
 through the ladies' saloon to another deck Ijclow that, 
 where we were Irouirht uj) bv a pair of foldiiio-doors. 
 As others st(X)d in fiatient expectation of tlie d<»ors open- 
 ing, so did we. At length they did open; and in we all 
 rushed pell-mell as if we had not eaten fur the last 
 twelve hours, or as a band of thirsty pilgrims hurry 
 tow ai-ds a stream of pia-e water after crossing the arid 
 sands of the desert. 
 
 The scene was novel- -a vast saloon was before us, 
 
WESTERN WANDEllINGS. 
 
 53 
 
 witl) rows of tables extending apparently to the other end 
 of the vessel, and covered with a variety of viands, at which 
 already some Imndred persons werJ making desperate 
 onslaught. On either side of the saloon were two tiers 
 of berths for gentlemen, with rows of life-buovs hanging 
 up between them, so that in the event of the craft being 
 casually snagged, the passengers might have wherewith 
 to float them. 
 
 The provisions were not bad, but it was far too 
 hot to allow us to eat. All we could do was to imbibe 
 tea; but that, and the atmosphere of the cabin, added so 
 much to the caloric in our frames that we were glad to 
 get back to the upper saloon. 
 
 I have not attempted to describe the scenery of the 
 Hudson; in the tirst place, so crowded was the after-plat- 
 form, that it was imiiossible to get a seat there, and in the 
 next, it very soon became too dark to distinguish any 
 ol)ject on the shore. I suspect, however, that no portion 
 of the river surpasses in beauty the scene at its entrance. 
 The sensation of being on board an American river 
 steamer for the first time is very curious. One hears 
 the splashing of the paddles, and one experiences the 
 slightest possible vibration, and one feels oneself carried 
 rapidly onward; butneitlier helmsman, officers, nor crew, 
 does one see. Now and then one hears a bell tinkle— 
 the huge fabric stops — the bell tinkles, on, on it goes 
 again. That is the only sign the ])assengers have that 
 the vessel's course is directed by lunnan agency. In fact, 
 the captain and crew have no conmiunication whatever 
 with the ])assengers. 
 
 In hopes of obtaining some mu(;h-re(]ulred rest, we 
 retired to our elegant little cabiji; but, nlas, a'las! 
 scarcely had our heads touched our pillows, when so 
 
51 
 
 WESTERN WANDKniN'GS. 
 
 I 
 
 tornfic an onslaught was made by a whole army of 
 previous occupants, that we were fain to rise and beat a 
 retreat. Accordingly, we spent the night on chairs as 
 best we might, in fr.mt of the cabin ; for, as may be sup- 
 posed, all the sofas and comfortable settees had long been 
 occupied. 
 
 1 mustconfess to the folly of having made very frequent 
 visits to a large tank of iced water, which stood tempt- 
 ingly in the fore-part of th(> saloon, with a number of 
 glasses beneath it. It scarcely cpienched my thirst, and 
 tended to increase tlje sensations of heat from which I 
 was suflbring. Now and then, also, T tried to catch a 
 breath of air on the forward platform, but in vain; even 
 the i-iipid motion of the steamer seemed to create no 
 current. Never do I j-ecollect so oj.ijressive a night. 
 
 As f stood watching the stai's and the dark water 
 through whicli we were cleaving our way, I now and 
 then caught the outline of some mountain-ridge or rocky 
 height sc^en against the sky ; and anon some lights gliding 
 by, and the tinkling of bells, gave us notice that we were 
 passing another of the floating dwellings of those waters. 
 At length our I)e11 tinkled more frequently than ever— 
 a few murnun-ing sounds from the regions above us 
 reached ..ur ears -a few faint lights danced before our 
 eyes, and we discovered that we were at Albany, it beino- 
 then about four in the mornino-. ' " 
 
 As the cars were not to start for some hours, and no 
 hotels were open, we were glad to remain on board; 
 indeed, we sliould not ])i-obably have found so cool a place 
 as the after-plattbrm then was. J left my wife there 
 while I went to redeem our luggage from the hands of the 
 bai-ber. She was inquiring of a damsel who sat near her 
 the distance from Saratoga to Caldwell on Lake George. 
 
W ESTKIJN \v AN DEIU NG S 
 
 55 
 
 •' Well, then, I don't know just," was the answer. 
 *'It's nr)t fu, I guoss; just about in the neirrliboiu-liood, 
 Vm siiro,— not more tlian u hundred miles !" 
 
 Wfiat an expansive intellect ! what fjrand ideas of 
 distance and space must the maiden have possessed! 
 She, probably, would have thouo-ht no more of journey- 
 ing a thousand iniles or so to visit her friends in the 
 Western States, than does an Englishwoman of going 
 from London f. Putney! 
 
 At length daylight appeared, and wc^ were able to 
 got on shore witliout the risk of tumi)ling into the river. 
 Albany is one of the oldest cities in the Union. 
 What we saw of it, however, did not look very venerable. 
 It seemed a decent, res[)ectable place, and behig a centre 
 whence several ciuials and railroads diverge, and having, 
 moreover, the magnificent Hudson flowing j.ast its quays,' 
 It has risen to conslderaijle wealth and importance. We' 
 did not stop to adnn'r(> it, but hiring a cab, drove forth- 
 _ with to the cars, which were starting for Saratoga. 
 
 We found the cars — as the railway carriages are 
 called— standing in the middle of the street. There was 
 an office near at hand where we procured our tickets. 
 Ft was a mert; slied; the cost of erection not more thaii 
 twenty or thirty pomids probably. British railway 
 directors might take hints of no little value to their share- 
 holders from oui- American cousins. 
 
 The cars are unlike any English railway carriages. 
 The entrance-d(x>i-s are at each end, to whicli convenLit 
 steps lead up. Platforms j)roject ov(.'r the buffers, and 
 thus join all the carriages, and as there is a passage 
 through every carriage, the guards can traAerso them 
 from one end of the train to the cither without let or 
 hmdrance. Each carriage contains from ten to twehe 
 
 ,|l 
 
53 
 
 "WESTERN WANDERIIVGH, 
 
 rows of seats; four people in a row, witli the pjissa^e in 
 tlie centre. Thus two peojile sit to<retiier. The backs 
 being moveable, thej niaj face tlie on nine or not as they 
 please. The \\inaows are placed like those iji an onini- 
 l»us, but open and shut with j.erfect ease, and have, 
 besides, Venetian blinds. In the \^ inter, stoves are placed 
 ni the carriages, jind, besides, there are withdj-awing 
 rooms, and a sofa for any lady who may be unwell. 
 
 I like the style of carriage very nmch for sunnner 
 travelling; but as there is only one class, people of very 
 different habits find themselves sitting alongside each 
 other— the more refined having their sensibilities not a 
 little shocked by the manners of their coarser fellow- 
 civatures. Could, however, the almost universal custom 
 of spitting be given up, I believe a traveller would meet 
 witli fewer annoyances in an American rail-car than he 
 would in general in second and third-class carriages in 
 England. As both ends of the carriages are alikej'lhere 
 is no necessity for turning them to get in or out of a 
 station. 
 
 Taking our seats, a^vay we went with much content- 
 ment. The can-iage was hung apparently on springs; 
 for though -Jie inovemen. was considerable, there was 
 not much jolting. If we might judge of the speed by 
 the noise prtjduced, we must have bec^i going at a terrific 
 rate, as we rushed roarmg, and rattling, and hissing 
 along iirough the A\ild forest. Never have I b(H}n in a 
 (Conveyance which made so much clatter. 
 
 The scenery to us wtis novel and very beautiful. 
 Now we were traversing a bit of forest, then we would 
 come to a wide clearing, with snake-fences and Indian 
 corn ; next we were passing along the summit of a range 
 of hills, with views of the Hudson below us on our ri.rht. 
 
WESTEKN WAXDERrXGS. 
 
 57 
 
 "tl„.,s u„,l,l,„g a„,l f;,ami„„ „,,•,■ 1,1.1, ,.„,kv |,.|„,„ ; , , 
 
 in;,r ,2 V'™' "7'™' """'™ '"■'■■'«-• *""-l'»' "v- 
 
 Several ""■■'""'""" <"• J-^""i"«to„ of the Statel 
 
 be e,al a -ge |,„td, „<.„,. the .station te.uptod „s to «to„ 
 
 wlK... we fo,,„d a la,.«e ..art., a«.,.,bled, .lo ng , J ,„ 
 active, clea,, blaek waitei-s. I„ two L „*'"""" "^ 
 
 o *. . a,.i o,h...tt,,,e.ive e,lible„ with „o,„e nne I, ! 
 t o ,alA. eottee. We w.,,-e then hy our desire sla.wn i„ „ 
 .. ."o.n, wl,e,x. the appHcation of hot water. bruHi,es, and 
 towels, niueh n-fresheil iis. 
 
 Tlu, States Hotel, int. whieh we had thns hv ehanee 
 'nte e,l, was a l„,.e i.uilding for.nin. Ihree sides of a 
 quadrangle. „e interior of whieh was a lawn fnll of tree, 
 cool and fresl,.h„king. The l,on,,e. see„,ed Htted , ,' 
 everj. attent,„„ to cleanliness .™1 co.nfint, bnt none 
 -■■0 show The ,.„o,„s we saw we-v shnpl, wl it 1 
 vv.-.shed, and had dimit.y or chintz cu,-tai„,. 
 
 J i-em.uk«l a very go«i plan f,„- secn,-ing h, a hot 
 elnnafeso,ne decree of orlvi,.,, ..„ l . i , 
 
 c,,,.. r Y I""'"-y iiiid coolness at the satne 
 
 tunc. Every doorway had before it a Ught-«,lo,„-ed 
 
5H 
 
 WESTEHN WANDEUIXGS. 
 
 calico curtain, sufficient to prevent idlers from lookiiijrr in 
 ^vitllout impetling the circulation of air. As every cur- 
 tain was of a different colour, people could not mistake 
 their own rooms. 
 
 Both on the o-ardcn and street sides of the lictel were 
 deep verandahs, in wliich a mnnbei* of men were sitting 
 snu)]-,)!i(_-, in attitudes which Mrs. Trollope has made 
 familiar to the English eye. But then the weathei- was 
 ver}^ hot, and, with the thermometer at 90°, the comfort 
 of placin«i' the feet on a level with the nose is very 
 
 great. 
 
 The season of the Saratoga Springs was now over; 
 the fashionables — "the IJ])j)er Ten Thousand "— had 
 flown back to their country-houses, to tlie sea-side, or to 
 other places of public n^sort. The people wlio were 
 there were chiefly those who remained really for the sake 
 of takiniz the waters. 
 
 The Americans go ahead in their anuiseruents as 
 much as they do in business, nnd out-Hei-od Herod in 
 following lOnglish or French customs. In the season the 
 company give themselves up body and soul to dressing, 
 eatmg, dancing, flii-ting, and driving. The e'lite, by all 
 accounts, put on a fresh costume for breakfast, luncheon, 
 dinner, and the cAening. Indeed, I suspect it would be 
 impossible to find a better [>lace for studvino; the humoiu's 
 of Vanity i'air than tht; Springs of Saratoga, 
 
 The town is full of hotels of the first magnitude; and 
 though the bedrooms in them are small and unpre- 
 tending, the ])ublic apartments are spacious and hand- 
 some, with gardens well fitted for public resort. Indeed, 
 it is altogether an amusing place for those emploved in 
 the melancholy occupation of killing time. 
 
 It was here I received a very proper rebuke fi-ora one 
 
WESTKHN U'AXDEKINGS. 
 
 69 
 
 of tho bl^tck wmters. Entering the breakflist-l.ull climtl v 
 
 fn,,„ t].e vcran,lah I had io..gotton to mnovo n.y hat". 
 
 lakeott ^.mr hat sir; r>coi,ic don't like it," said one. 
 
 Ves people don't hke it," echoed another. I instantly 
 
 iofted my sombrero in obedience to the order, and be.-ed 
 
 blacky s ,,ar.lun for my schism in ^ood n.anners. 
 
 At an oftce near at hand we took tickets to frank us 
 on to Montreal by the va.-iety of c-onveyances in which 
 we were destined to tra^el. Having "rc-sted for son.e 
 tiine m the cool shade of the verandah of the hotel, we 
 once more repaired to the railway-station, to proceed to 
 Moreau, whence a stage was to carry us across the countrv 
 to Caldwell, on J.ake George. 
 
 This was the only occasion on whicli 1 was adch-essed 
 w.th, - W ell, stranger, where do you come from ? Eng- 
 land, J guess?" ® 
 
 '' Yes," said I ; « I have that honour." 
 "Well, then, and where are vou goin^ to now^^" 
 contnnied my friend. - o o 
 
 "Oh, back again, by all means," I replied. "It's 
 too hne a country to leave for ever, if one can help it " ^ 
 
 His manner was perfectly civil, and 1 should Inive 
 liked to have had more conversation witli him. 
 
 We had satisfactory demonstration that our lug.^ao-e 
 which we hud left under such suspicious circumstances,' 
 vyas on its way north, by seeing it piled up in a van in 
 the very train by which we were going. The regulations 
 under which luggage is sent about the States are very 
 excellent, and no charge is made when travellers go by 
 conveyances belonging to the same owners. 
 
 Moreau is a small village where there was no hotel, 
 but we fbund stages waiting to convey passengers to Lake 
 George. Wc took our seats in one of them.'" It was like 
 
60 
 
 \V ESTERN W A N DE IlINGS, 
 
 one of the ancient coaches wliicli Dick Tiiq)in nii<rlit 
 havo stopped with his terrific •' Siaiid and (U'livcrl" 
 The hack-seat held two persons, a hiiiid Scotch gentk>man 
 and his American wife; tiie middle, three, their daughter 
 sat on it with my wife and me. A broail strap served us 
 to U'an against. Two gentlemen from the Soutli sat facing 
 us; and our Jehu was perched on the box, «ith along 
 whip to urge on his ibur steeds. He was a driver of 
 some dexterity, or we shoidd scarcely have escaped a.i 
 overset into the Hudson, or some of the numerous valleys, 
 streams, and gullies, we passed, as we galloped along a 
 road, now corduroy, now of plank liroken and rotten, now 
 of shingle, now a rough and rugged composition of all 
 three. 
 
 "Oh, the railways have done all thisl" observed one 
 of the party, as we bumped and jolted along. No one 
 dreams of mending roads when they have to compete 
 with rails anrl steam-engines. 
 
 Our comi)anions were all of the old school — high 
 Tories they would liave been in England, and liked 
 things as they were. The vexed (juestion of slavery 
 was introdiu-ed. They considered it an institution, if 
 not to be admired, at all events not to be got rid of. 
 Mrs. Beecher Stowe was then brought on the^ai)is, and 
 not few or gentle were the anathemas hurled on her 
 head. The veiy attack they made on her Mould have 
 convinced me, that the wjiole of " Uncle Tom's Cabin" 
 is founded on facts. Indeed, from the columns of Ame- 
 rican newspapers instances nn'ght bo quoted to corro- 
 borate every tale she narrates. She does not attempt to 
 prove that slavery universally produces the results she 
 describes, but that it may and frequently does so, while 
 it invariably lowers the moral feelings both of owners 
 
WESTICUN WANDERINGS. 
 
 61 
 
 Mid shr es, prevontu.^r, in the latter, the (loveloi.iuent of 
 anj the higher qualities of human beings, and oncou- 
 rauM g tlw worst passions in the former. Our eoni- 
 ,•'''1^ IS were so i)leasing and courteous, that I was most 
 unNViihng to say a word to wound th.-ir feelinns. I, 
 t. i'fore, aeknu-vledged, as an a])straet prinei]!le, thJ 
 im])r.>priety of one State atten){.ting to interfere in tiie 
 internal atlairs of another, and observed, that tlam..], most 
 Lnghshmen — thanks to the teacin-ng of Wilberfmre and 
 other philant!.ropists-now looked upon slavery with 
 abhorrence, all sensible men were fully aware of the 
 great difficulties Americans nuist encounter in abolishing 
 a system which has taken such deep root in the land. I 
 had resoJanl, bef<,re entering the country, to take no 
 part in a)iy (.f tlu^ questions of the day likely to excite 
 unpleasant feelings; I, therefore, contented myself with 
 leading on my companions to express their opinions on 
 the subject. 
 
 Should, however, those pages ever meet the eye of 
 any slase-liolder or advocate of slavery, let me assure 
 him of the utter detestation in which the system is held 
 l)y all right-minded men in England; and let me urge 
 liun, as he would avert the direst curses of Heaven from 
 his magnificent country, to spare no exertion in securing 
 Its timely abolition. This desirable end, I am aware] 
 ean only be produced by degrees ; but lot every year see' 
 a refoi-m in the slaxe-laws, and, without violence or dis- 
 order, the stigma which rests on the great Iiej)ublic's 
 name may be removed for ever, and she may stand forth 
 |)roudly as one of tlu? civilised nations of the'eartli. The 
 work would not be so difficult were all slave-holders to 
 set about it witli a will -no longer allow the separation 
 ot husbands and Avives, parents and childi'en— let no 
 
62 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS, 
 
 I 
 
 slaves be sold away from tlie estate on wlileh they are 
 born-let all dilldren born from henceforth be free- 
 spread education among thon— encourage them to legis- 
 late among themselves on all matters in which they are 
 interested-fit them, by every possible means, to become 
 tree, and thus make them comprehend that tlie whites 
 are truly anxious to enable them to enjoy the benefits 
 of freedom; and I feel assured that, mitil tiiey are fitted 
 for tlie change, they will make no undue exertion to 
 obtain it. 
 
 However, we are on our way to CaldwtH. Our 
 friends seemed highly gratified ^ith the flattering recep- 
 tion a lady from one of the Southern States had received 
 from the Queen of England, while iio similar compliment 
 had been i^aid to Mrs. Beccher Stowe. TWy aunised us 
 much by describing the go-ahead ladies of America,— 
 the moral Bloomers, who, instead of looking after their 
 babies and household affairs, claim their I'iuht to seats in 
 the legislature and the privilege of weiu-ing' breeches. 
 
 Witli conversation on subjects so anmsin<r, we jour- 
 neyed pleasantly on in spite of the heat; and soon a 
 th.uiderstorm broke over our heads, laid the du^t, and 
 cooled the air, giving a won.kn-fully improving wash also 
 to the tace of Nature. The beauty of the landscape was 
 much heightened by the bright gleams of sunlight and 
 the htful shadows of the clouds as thev floated throiu-h 
 the sky, in addition to the varied tints of the wide forest 
 the mellow corn-fields, and the green pasture-lands. 
 
 We were here first introduced to snake-fences. Thev 
 
 are well so .-ailed; for, in all iiewlv-opened districts theV 
 
 are seen wriggling through tlie countrv, „p and down 
 
 nil and across tlie plain in all directions,-the first rou<.]i 
 
 boundary thrown uj. by the fanner whe;^ he has con- 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. ^3 
 
 Jiuered the ancient forest and laid it prostrate before 
 
 ot thick f,r-l,„ards laul across the rond, and when new 
 . as s,nooth as the floor „f a r„o,„, ojt whel old n^ 
 .otU-n, as was th,s one, it is far from pleasant to driv 
 o er, ^ over., .nstant one finds tI,o wheels let into Z 
 7 ' ^^Sy earth beneath, out of whicl, nothin,. but , 
 d,d,K.,Ung jork can pull then,. ^ '' 
 
 and'll,""' ^r "''''■' ''■"'" ^I°'-^™-« P^^^d aien's Falls 
 
 L on Iv- "" " '"""''• "'-™ ""- ""'1-' leaps 
 
 u, ou»lj- over a steep ledge of black rock. Once tL 
 
 pot nu,s, have been wild and romantic in the extreme 
 but uuU-owners have taken possession of tie wa e^' 
 l'"v.lege, and it now turns son.e forty wheels Z Ce- 
 
 d ra',":i': *"; ;'-'-^ ""' '"""-'■- -^>y -.nr ; 
 
 I- , i^'iiUi., their cheery sound reininrls 
 
 one of the ,„a„y hearts thev n.ake to r'joice by . 
 ploymcnt ,uid food they affijrd. 
 
 Thongh perhaps, Cvild and forest land pn^lounnated 
 e iound UKle patches of ..artially cleared ground W 
 t .0 black stumps of the ,,i„es which had been bnrn 
 'own reu,au,cd, while green gr,ass and voung sit 
 d stored round them in stron,, and picture.,ue con st 
 Son,e of the lences, formcl of the twisted roots of the 
 P."es range, in l„„g row.,, have a very curiou ft "' 
 
 P tron, the earth. Anything like good cu tivatiou 
 <■.•.■ was .,0,. The field., produced ohi^Hv Indi,an co 
 somettmes ,u,.ved with the large gold-coloured .-onrd . [ 
 .Nhandso„,e Honor, and son.etiu.es these grew t„.et e 
 '""'"• ""• '"•"'-!'- •"■ »" ""ineloscd orchard of: 
 
64 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 trees, laden with a small fruit of a bright red and 
 yellow. 
 
 We were told that the farms in this part of tlie State 
 of New York seldom exceed three hundred acres. The 
 h'Jid, in days of yore, belonged to the Dutch Padroons, 
 a title some of the proprietors still keep up. 
 
 The settlers are generally of a bad description and 
 lawless disposition, and they have, moreover, a mortal 
 antij)athy to paying rent. For some years they main- 
 tained tiiat no one had a right to demand it, but the law 
 decided agiiinst them. They still, however, amiably 
 give as much trouble as they can to the collectors. 
 
 Some years ago, when not a particle of rent was 
 forthcoming, a spirited proprietor resohed to take the 
 matter into his own hands ; so. arming himself with four 
 brace of pistols, a rifle, and bowie-knife, he rode up to 
 the cottage of one of the most contumacious of his 
 tenants. 
 
 " I've come for my rent," said he, as soon as he had 
 entered the cottage and closed the door. 
 
 " Kent : who's going to pay you rent ? " quoth the 
 tenants 
 
 " Why, you are, my smart fellow, I guess," said the 
 proprietor, drawing a pistol, and cocking it; "I've not 
 come here to j.lay the fool. Hand out the rent, or, by 
 thv- immortals, I'll shoot you as dead as that flitch of bacon 
 over the fire-place !" I'he tenant saw he was caught. He 
 looked up wistfully at his rifle hvuig against the wall. 
 
 "Yes, but that won't do," said the ])ropriet<.r. " If 
 you attempt such a trick, I'll blow your brains out. 
 Hand me the dollars: you've got them in the house, I 
 fiuess." 
 
 I 
 

 WE3TEEN WANDEEING8. 65 
 
 Wliile the tenant stooped to get out his dollars the 
 
 he_ha™,„er, restored it to its plaee. Having „ot pos- 
 ess.o„ of h,s money, he mounted his horse and g^ -Cd 
 
 were"°btilfo?' f"'^"',°l"'" "^ ''°"'^'' ™ l'-«' 
 coJous had a fresh, guy appearance. One ,ve re- 
 marked, w,th some pretension as to size, and n t e 
 
 had wl e doors, and windo«-blinds of the most inten-, 
 and bnlhant bh,e, while rod, and pink, and ^ 1 L; 
 adorned other portions of the edifice. ^ ' 
 
 rhe stages stopped at a very neat .and prettv hotel 
 to allow those of the passengers who might be hu^j to 
 d.ne. All the hotels which we saw in°the Sta^f bo h 
 
 country n Europe, though they may not heat an old- 
 fashioned mn in an English country tov.-n. 
 
 After we left Glen's Falls the scenery became far 
 
 us, the lotty blue mountams of Vermont were seen in 
 ti^- distance; and we bumped and thun,ped alon. over 
 pank-bcdges which gave syznptoms of letti^. u 
 .^^rough, and by the edge of deep ravines with tall tree 
 grown,g n, them, on whose branch., we thought aZ 
 -as every probability of our finding a roct ' 
 
 At length we ca,ne in sight of Laue George, its lofty 
 banks coverc-d with luxuriant foliage; and on' 1,» oZ"^ 
 Mte shore SherrilPs Ho.el, to v l.ich we were i,ound, wiri, 
 .ts green lawn .,l„ph,g down to the w.ter, looking cool 
 ™d attractive. We accordingly skirted the headrf tij 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 lake, among tall and graceful trees, to the front of the 
 hotel, immediately before which is a dear old-fashioned 
 green, and beyond a high hill thickly covered with 
 shrubs and trees. The landlord stood ready to receive 
 us, and politely ushered us to the drawing-room while 
 our rooms were being apportioned to us. Indeed, with 
 scarcely an exception, we found the masters of the hotels 
 in the States as attentive and i Miging as any in England 
 can be. A tea-and-supper meal was inmiediately {)ut on 
 the table for our benefit ; and afterwards the housemaid 
 brought us an ample supply of tubs and cans of water. 
 1 won her heart by admii'ing the pail in which she 
 carried hot water. It was of iron, painted white, and 
 looked neat and strong. Our room was very neat, with 
 a beautiful view of the lake from the Avindows. A deep 
 verandah ran round each of the stories of the house. 
 We sat in the lowest all the evening watching a thunder- 
 storm, which, long before threatening, now lu'oke in 
 earnest over the lake, and gave an unwonted freshness to 
 the air; but too much caloric had been instilled into us 
 to allow us to get cool in a luu'ry. We resolved to give 
 ourselves a complete rest during the next day; and a 
 succession of thunder-showers and storms of wind much 
 assisted us to keep our resolution. We gat out, howev^er, 
 in the evening to sketch and wander about on the banks 
 of the lake. 
 
 I cannot forget the deliciously cold water my friend 
 the chamber-maid brmght me in the morning, and that 
 for the first time smcj lanch'ng I felt really cool and able 
 to enjoy existence. Most ,»f the waiters were Negroes. 
 ^ye were much amused by the grin of delight with which 
 a youthful blai;ky ran through the house sounding the 
 gong for dinner, and scarcely loss so at the dignified 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 67 
 
 attitude yith which the head-w.itor-a m™ of li«ht 
 
 h s„bord„u,tos brought in some hu^e piles of plato 
 other. „„n>b ,,,, „^,,^„^,.,.^^ ^^,_^^^ ^ j P^^^, 
 
 ^d foXl"r:f „:'' " "^"^^ *" "- """ -^ -'nife' 
 The shores of Lake George are richlv wooded- and 
 
 the S cotd, hkes, the hills s,u-rom,di„g the latter are 
 genen.IIy far loftier. „,ore abrupt, and ^gged. It is 
 most lovely spot and the hotels „„ its b,n1s are much 
 
 .tr'oif'-thfgrr^i,"""'''"'"''--- 
 sherHi,H.est. ¥;:l:at\.terrrsl!':; 
 
 was w,th no slight satisfaction that we looked for Wt^' 
 entering Canada on the following day. °" «■<! ^ 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 May the tliunder-cloiids which have broken over the 
 world purify the moral atmosphere as much as did the 
 storms of the previous day brighten up and refresh the 
 air the morning of our departure! At seven o'clock, 
 after a hurry-sKurry breakfast, we embarked from a 
 rough, wooden pier at the foot of the garden on board 
 the steamer John Jay, to proceed doAvn Lake George. 
 She was a neat and clean vessel, and the roof of the 
 saloon being decked over, enabled us to enjoy the 
 beauties of the lake-scenery. 
 
 By an excellent plan we were preserved from the 
 dirtiness of the smoke. The mouth of the funnel was 
 covered with a close wire-net, within which the impri- 
 soned blacks, like birds in a cage, skipped, and jumped, 
 and fluttered, in fruitless effinls to escape. As wood is 
 used, and as tlie sparks from it are much larger and keep 
 burning far longer than those from ccal, I suspect that 
 the network is employed ratlu^r to prevent the vessel 
 from being set on fire than for any extraordinary solici- 
 tude for the cleanliness of the jjassengers' habiliments. 
 
 The air was positively cold, though most exhilarating 
 to our feeluigs; but the sun soon brought it to an enjoy- 
 
 c 
 I 
 c 
 
 V 
 
 u 
 h 
 
 V 
 
WESTEKN WANDEEING8. 61) 
 
 able temperature, without in any way impairing its 
 bnlhant clearness. Indeed, during the greatest heft we 
 had endured we had never in the least suffered from 
 an^thmg I.ke oppression, nor had we felt any weight in 
 the atmosphere. Very delightful did we fi.ul it ^s we 
 sat on the deck watching the soft outlines of the richlv- 
 
 waTers Y^ T 'n '" ''^" *^ ^"^^^^^^^ ''^^^ ^-^^t blue 
 ^vaters of Lake George, dotted with innumerable tree- 
 
 clothed m the most luxuriant and graceful fohage, looked 
 ke a beautiful bouquet floating on the azure bosom of 
 the Jake In some places the shores are broken into 
 high and steep precipices. 
 
 At the farther end of the lake is a rock, about two 
 hundred feet m height and standing at an angle of 
 twenty-flvx^ degrees, which goes by the name of Rogers's 
 febde. Doling the war between the English and the 
 French, whu.h ended in the former gaining possession of 
 C^anada, a Lntish partisan officer. Major Rogers, was 
 traversmg the country alone during the middle of winter, 
 when his tnul was discovered by a party of hostile 
 Indians. They gave cliase ; but he happily got warning 
 of their approach, though he felt that the enhances of 
 escape were few. He hurried on as rapidly as he could 
 on his snow-shoes through the forest; for by speed alone, 
 unless help should arrive, could he hope to elude his 
 crafty foes. His trail, clearly marked on the snow, 
 would too well hidicate the direction he had taken. Still 
 undaunted he persevered. Lake George was before 
 him: valleys and ravines running up inland would pre- 
 vent hun skirting its shores. Already he heard them 
 close behind him as they broke through the miderwood. 
 
70 
 
 WESTERN WANDERING'S. 
 
 Their briglit tomahawks glittered m the sunbeams as he 
 cast one glance over his shoulder. A precipice was 
 before In'm. Not flir from the opix)site shore of the lake 
 a Britisli outpost might be reache.l Providentially he 
 was no stranger to the locality. The precipice was at a 
 sufficient angle to allow the snow to rest on it. Without 
 hesitation throwing himself on his back, he launched 
 himself over its edge, and with fearful velocity slid down 
 to the bottom. Even the Indians tliirsting for his blood 
 stood aghast at the daring feat, and shrank from following 
 him. The ice was firm: ho reached it in safety, and, 
 rapidly running over its smooth surface, he gained the 
 o})posite shore before his foes had recovered from their 
 astonishment and found a path by which to resume the 
 pursuit. In those days rifles were less common in the 
 hands of the Indians than they afterwards became when 
 the white men supplied them to aid in each other's 
 destruction. The savages Avere without one, and before 
 they could overtake him he had reached hi safety the 
 British post. 
 
 On the east side of the lake is the Black Rock, a 
 mountain 2200 feet above its surface. It is encircled by 
 rounded hills and covered with trees, shrubs, and grass, 
 and adds much to the pictm-es<iue beauty of the sur- 
 rounding scenery. 
 
 The names of numerous sj^ts in the neighbourliood 
 commemorate sanguinary encounters between^the French 
 and English, and their Indian allies. Two miles from 
 our hotel IS a piece of watvT called the "JiloiAy Pond " 
 m consequence of a thousand dead bodies of both parties 
 having there found sejnilture at the termination of a 
 battle. We passed a jjrojection on our left, called « Sab- 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 I 
 
 hatli-dav Point," wlioro, one Sunday, a furious encxage- 
 nient took place between a party of F.n^Mi and a'^tribe 
 of Indians in alliance with the French. 
 
 The voyag(i ahogether was niost interesting. We 
 were continually entering some wood-surrounded'' bay, to 
 call at the romantic retired little hotel shelter(>d tlierein, 
 or we were pii.ssing between the shores of tlie numerous 
 islands, of ^^hi(;h the lake contains three hundred or 
 more. 
 
 As we glided smoothly on, our ears were assailed by 
 the loud baying of dogs close to us, and looking o\-er the 
 side, we saw two boats pulling about in an eccentric; 
 manner, with a inan in each, accompanied by several 
 dogs swimming near them, in chase of a fine roebuck, 
 who, poor Ijeast! was straining every nerve to escape 
 from his pursuers and to reach the shore. The prospect 
 of his return to his wooded hills, whence he had evidently 
 just been driven, was small indeed. His foes waved 
 their hats and shouted as we ])assed, in triumph at their 
 ex])ected success. Their object, evidently, was to throw 
 a net over his head to hold him secure, while they de- 
 spatched him. Had 1 been one of the lumters, I should 
 have been as eager for his death as they were ; but I was 
 not sorry that the steamer was too far off to see distinctly 
 the end of the tragedy. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Indians are taught to consider 
 the water of the lake holy, and it is used in bai)tism by 
 their priests. 
 
 I doubt whether, In any part of the States, a more 
 delectable spot can be fovmd in which to pass the hot 
 months of sunmier than the l)eautiful sliores of Lake 
 (reorge. Wo land(;d at half-past nine at the head of the 
 lake, where we found a stage, which carried us b\ an 
 
72 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 I 
 
 oxorrablr road, bumping and tiniinping, In rather more 
 than an hour, across a nuck ot laiul to Fort Ticonderoga, 
 on Lake Chainplain. In spite of tlie jolting;, tlie trip was 
 I'leasant; for W(> had (.ur former kind companions— the 
 blind ovntleman and his family, and seme agreeable 
 friends who had Joined them, and the scenery was hixrhly 
 interesting. "^ 
 
 ^ Ti.e ever-graceful and elegant novelist, James, wh<. 
 IS now residing in the States, has made this tlie scene of 
 one of his latest novels, selecting a i)eri,Hl a short time 
 before, the capture of Quebe<% 1 have since read the 
 tale with great interest. His descriptions of scenery Jire 
 most tnithful. and the highly-wrought-up adventures lie 
 introduces gi^■e one, I should think, a very good idea of 
 the style of Jife of border settlers, and the system of war- 
 ftu*e carried on in those days. 
 
 The f<.rt, when Jiekl by the French, was attacked by 
 a British army of 16,(»0() men under Lord Howe, and 
 (captured after much fighting. Its ruins still rema'in on 
 the summit .)f the hill overlooking tlie lake. We waited 
 here two hours, enjoying the cU'licious breeze, tor the 
 Canada steamer, which was coming from tlie south 
 through a h^ng narrow branch of Lake Champlain. 
 At length she arrived. We were surprised to find so 
 large a vessel on comparatively so small a lake. She 
 had the same number (.f decks as the one we voyao-ed 
 m on the Hudson. She was smaller, certainly, but still 
 a vast structure. VVHiether it was expected that she 
 would sink or blow up some day, 1 do not know; but in 
 preparation for such an event, between each berth, in the 
 sleeping-cabin, was suspended a huge life-buoy, sufficient 
 to support two or three men at least. The truth is, that 
 m consequence of the mnnberless accidents which have 
 
WE8TERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 78 
 
 occurred, the Legislature passed a law ('orni)ellinfT all 
 ^oauun-s to carry a life-bucy for every per.so.i on board. 
 Uie Kn^hsh rnicrht take the hint md puss one to the 
 same effect, especially with regard to emigrant ships. 
 
 1 he scenery of Lake Champlain is totally different to 
 that of Liike George; it is fUr mon^ extensive, ranges of 
 lofty m.3untains am seen in the distance, towns and 
 vilh^i-es ai-e scnttered along its banks, and numerous 
 vessels float on its waters. 
 
 The largest town is Rurlington, in Vermont State, 
 on the east shore, where we touched about four o'clock. 
 It stands on a conunan.ling height, backed by ranges of 
 picturesque hills, and with a sj^lerKlid panoramic view of 
 the mountains across the lake. As it possesses a large 
 collegiate building, and several churches and other public 
 edifices, It must be a place of some importance; at all 
 events, as seen from the water, it has a very fine ap- 
 pearance. * 
 
 We nowhen, on our travels met with finer scenery 
 than on this lako, with the exception of that in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Quebec. Notlung could exceed the beautiful 
 colouring of the landscape -the lights and shadows were 
 perfect; for though the day was most brilliant, the sky 
 was not cloudless. Towards sunset it increased in beauty. 
 The lake on which we floated was of the brightest blue 
 and overhead was a lighter, yet scarcely less brilliant 
 cohMir ; the whole eastern sky was of the softest pink tint 
 blendmg into yellow, and a long range of mountains 
 appeared of a tender blue, while the sim tinged with the 
 most daz/ling gold a cloud some,^'hat in the shape of a 
 coronet which rested on a hill t(. our left. 
 
 "Ah !" said I to an American, who stood near admir- 
 ing the scene with us, " Russia's Czar, or the proudest 
 
 m 
 
 K I 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
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 1.25 
 
 JfiM IIM 
 
 •a 1^ 1 2.2 
 
 - lis i M 
 
 1.8 
 
 lA. 11 1.6 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. 14.S80 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
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 74 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 monarch of ancient Europe, never wore so bright a 
 diadem as this you can show us iii your land of free- 
 dom." 
 
 A vast number of curious cutters, painted white and 
 green, with broad cock-up sterns and cabin windows in 
 them, navigate the lake. It has a communication by 
 water with the St, Lawrence, through which a vast 
 quantity of timber from the river Ottawa and merchan- 
 dise is carried in and out of the States, so that the towns 
 on its shores liave all the advantages of a sea-boai\l. 
 
 It had becom(i so cold, that we were glad to don 
 cloaks and great-coats,— a great contrast to New York, 
 where a shirt of gauze and a coat of crinoline were as 
 weighty clothing as a man would wish to wear as fai* as 
 his comfort was concerned. 
 
 It was dark when we landed at Plattsburg, whore we 
 took the rail, which carried us to the banks of the St 
 Lawrence, opposite La Chine. A small, dirty, ill- 
 conditioned steamer ferried us across the river. We 
 found our luggage on board. How it contrived to meet 
 us I do not know. A civil custom-house officer desiring 
 me to declare that it contained nothing contraband, it 
 was allowed to pass without examination. 
 
 La, Chine is nine miles from Montreal, a distance we 
 were conveyed by the first railway established in Canada. 
 The carriages are on the usual English plan. The 
 village got its name from some of the early French 
 settlers, who, wandering westward, with their notions of 
 localities formed from the original idea of Columbus, 
 fancied that they had arrived on the confines of China, 
 On emerging from the tram, we were beset by swarms 
 of drivers and commissaires, with deafening cries recom- 
 mending their respective hotels. Wo had fi^ed to go to 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 75 
 
 Donegana's. the chief liotel in the city. Without any 
 care for our luggage we drove thither, and then sent the 
 porter with our brass checks to claim it. 
 
 The master of the hotel was away, and some raw 
 Irish waitmg-lads stared at us as we walked in, without 
 offering any kind of welcome. In truth, our first re- 
 ception in Montreal was fiir from gratifying. However, 
 as, on a subsequent visit to the hotel, wo found it as 
 comfortable as any we had been in, I blot out the irate 
 remarks I was about to commit to [)rint. 
 
 Never have I enjoyed purer or fresher air than that 
 I inhaled as I sallied forth early the next morning to get 
 a glimpse of the city. Soon after breakfast we went out 
 again, l)ut the smi had much warmed up the air, and wo 
 were glad to keep on the shady side of Notre Dame 
 Street, along which we took our way. 
 
 Montreal stands not far from the confluence of the 
 timber-floating Ottawa and the mighty St. Lawrence, 
 and is built along the north bank of the latter stream. 
 A narrow branch of the Ottawa, however, runs to the 
 north of it, and .joining the St liawrence, forms the land 
 on which the city is built into an island, with a hill in 
 the centre, called Mont Royal, from which the city 
 derives its name. For want of any other high gromid 
 to compare it with, it is dignified witli the title of the 
 mountain. We were much struck by the effects of the 
 great fires in all directions. Last year whole streets 
 were burnt down, and one cannot but feel that at any 
 moment the inhabitants may ho exposed to a similar 
 catastrophe. 
 
 Our first exploit, in order to get a thorough view ol 
 the city and its environs, was to ascend the tower of the 
 Roman Catholic Cathedral. 
 
 H 
 
 ft^ 
 
 \l 
 
u^i I iiiiiijiipnpiiipvpp 
 
 76 
 
 WESTERN M'ANDERINGS. 
 
 and™:"*!" t '■• ""'"J "'""'"^ """^' -'1 '-ks fre,h 
 
 shabby. ItTfitd^^'^^r''"" " -'"'™-l.«l a,.<I 
 
 f-ofa,uarterdoI,ati ;" ideet,. '"'"'"'' '' 
 
 steps to tlio toD „f th„., " "'' innumerable 
 
 f.7 the JhJZ"! l,'""'^''' '"" ""o ^-^^^ "«" repaid 
 
 enjoyed of the mlSt I '"*"■'""'' ™^ ^■'' 
 
 -e defined soon r:;fj;.tltrr ■''''*"''- 
 
 >ate^r:tribw:r'r''-n-'^^ 
 
 scaffolding near tbe ton of ,. If ™ working on some 
 
 Ws hoM,td wal'e -pt'ted^ ' "f"" !" "^''^ 
 he struck a buttrer reL ,• i"'^''''- ^'' ''" *J' 
 
 twni„t„an;tth<:':::';f,j7 "''? '-' --^ 
 
 whom he tenaciously clu^ Fort^'r; " -^"l' *" 
 h« post, and the man held on„^h tni " '"'""^"P' 
 despair till succour was sen, hhn T>, *" ''^'^"«* "^ 
 
 c^roit:^-:^l7--f™^^^^ 
 
 on them at different a,, J„ ' T^ "" ™" «'™ing 
 
 degrees of glea!7brfc"T'th"'''"'r-^'^^^^^ 
 the St. Lawrence stretchr^' " """^ "'^ "^ >'''« 
 
 south-west, with :; t fn Vs^H^^^ "' "^"' ""^ 
 -d far beyond it conid e te „ ,he bh' '" ""' """"' 
 "■^ ^"ited States. To the nj. tt S:^^ ;f 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 77 
 
 e^celknce, and all the rest of the sumunding country was 
 flat though not unprofitable, for the island of Montreal is 
 particularly well cultivated. Wo looked down, also, on 
 the scene of desolation caused by the fire, among which 
 were the run s of the Roman Catholic bishop's paL and 
 - college Some of the streets were in cotxrse of re- 
 bmldmg, but many of the blackened shells remained as 
 tne conflagration had left them. Were Montreal peopled 
 by Yankees instead of French Canadians, I suspict that 
 long ago the burnt portion of the city would with new 
 vigour have risen from its ashes. 
 
 The market-place, built on a steep hill reaching down 
 to the river, is a handsome building, surn.ounted by a 
 large dome. In the upper story is the court-house, the 
 next IS devoted to butchers; and in the lowest, fruit, 
 vegetables, and fish, are sold, but the latter articles of 
 food are an-auged in so untidy and unnice a way that 
 they looked but little tempting to us. A number of 
 Indian women were wandering about it. One broad- 
 faced old squaw had on a man's hat, a new blanket worn 
 like a shawl, a blue petticoat hke a serge bathing-gown 
 and under her arm she carried a basket with a queer 
 httle dog in it. Some of the others were sadly dirty 
 nor did the gaudy gilt necklaces they wore set oft' thei^ 
 brown throats to advantage. They were remarkably 
 hke the lowest class of old Irishwomen. A party of 
 them dressed in cloaks and wide-awakes, were sittino- at 
 a table eating, and using knives and forks with "the 
 gi-eatest gravity; while some young girls were making 
 purchases at a toy-stall of miniature dogs made to bark, 
 and ,t was amusing to mark the grin of delight with 
 which they contemplated their treasures. 
 
 Ii 
 
78 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Montreal has been so often described that my readers 
 will thank me, I doubt not, for proceeding with our 
 journey. 
 
 We dined at five o'clock, and walked down to the 
 quay to embark for Quebec on board the steamer John 
 Munn, which was to sail at seven. Again we could not 
 help remarking with admiration the effect of the settmg 
 sun on the roofs and spires, while a soft, rich glow was 
 suffused over the whole city. The mail from England, 
 tna Tioston, did not arrive for an hour after it was due, 
 80 that we had an abundance of time to contemplate its 
 beauties. 
 
 The John Munn was a huge, spider-looking, American- 
 bmlt boat, as are nearly ail those on the American 
 waters, but much inferior, in point of elegance, to those 
 we had paddled in both on the Hudson and L^ike 
 Ohamplam. The r,aloon was full of passengers- French 
 Canadians, English, Americans, and the usual sprinkling 
 of other nations. A lai-ge party were grouped round a 
 square pianoforte, on which several damsels performed 
 by turns most execrably, except one little body with a 
 sallow face, black hair all drawn back, and huge glancing 
 ear-rmgs, who played Scotch reels very well,^hough 
 most certamly she came not « fra the north." There w^s 
 a party also of jovial priests in broad-brimme^ hats and 
 long petticoats, with their tails tucked up hiside their 
 waist-belts, who seemed to have a great many good jokes 
 among themselves. One of them was a sleek ecclesiastic 
 of higher rank hi a mulberry-coloured robe turned up 
 with cnmson, and grey locks escapmg from beneath a 
 black skull-cap. 
 
 A few words will suffice to describe the scenery of 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 79 
 
 the St. Lawrence, near Montreal. The banks are low 
 and wooded, witn here and there railroad-stations and 
 farm-honses appearing amon^ the trees. The river is 
 about a mde broad, with a wooded island in the centre, 
 and on ,t a fortified barrack. Of the scenery of thJ 
 St Lawrence l>etween Montreal and Quebec, except 
 rom hearsay, I can describe no better than i can that of 
 tne Hudson as all the pa.sen.er steamers, for the stike 
 of saving the time of merchants and other regular pas- 
 sengers, nm at night. Unfortunate tourists, therefore, 
 heir mterests uncared for, have to draw somewhat 
 largely on their imagination as they glide through the 
 midnight gloom on those mysterious waters. Th^^re is 
 however nothing striking in the scenery if I may iud.re 
 by the ghmpses of the river we got as we travelled up 
 by land in the winter, except in the neighbourhood of 
 Quebec. I at first stramed my eyes through the dark- 
 ness in an endeavour to trace the outline of the coast; 
 but all I could see was everv now mid then some bi> craft 
 on her way down the river, or some tug-steamer towin. 
 up a long line of sailing-vessels, ships, brigs, and 
 schooners. 
 
 We stopped to wood and land passengers and cargo 
 at Trois Rivieres somewhere about midnight, when the 
 crew and people made so much noise that we for a time 
 were under the impression that we were snagged, or on 
 shore, or had run another vessel down, or were ourselves 
 going to blow up. 
 
 In the morning, when we went out on the platform 
 mthe fore-part of the vessel, we were saluted by a 
 dn^^[mg rain, through which we could see some high 
 clifis on either side of us, and very soon the Heights of 
 Abrahom; the citaael of Quebec, with a few buildings 
 
 \i 
 
80 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 below it; tlie village of Point Levi on the opposite shore; 
 a line of ships at anchor; and in the distance a fine 
 range of lofty mountains loomed through the watery 
 atmosphere. Having made a wide sweep round and 
 come in sight of the city, the greater part of which 
 climbs up the north-eastern side of the cliff, and was 
 thus before hid from our view, we ran alongside a 
 quay swarming with Irish and Canadian car-drivers and 
 jwrtei's. 
 
 We landed under shelter of umbrellas and mackin- 
 toshes, and were welcomed by a relation, at whose house 
 we were to stay. Ltuiding, we drove up a very steep 
 hill, through a massive gateway, into the city. 
 
 The most determuied irregularity of the streets 
 
 their ups and downs, and twists and turns, the odd- 
 shaped open spaces, ajid the green Venetian blinds with 
 which every window was furnished, give Quebec a very 
 picturesque appearance. When, however, we returned 
 in the winter, and found the gay Yonetians removed, and 
 flat, additional windows hooked on in their stead, while 
 the streets were some feet thick in a compound of snow 
 and mud, our admiration of its beauties fell with the 
 thermometer. 
 
 I give no description of Quebec at present, as we 
 remained there but a few days, being anxious to explore 
 the Upper Province before the connnencement of winter. 
 At that time, also, there was but little society. Lord 
 Elgin was in England ; General Pvowan, the acting Go- 
 vernor, was at Montreal; the Bishop was away. Many 
 of the residents, who had gone to the sea-side to avoid the 
 scorching heat of the simfimer, had not returned; and all 
 the mei-chants were still incessantly engaged in business in 
 preparation for the coming winter, when little or nothin<r 
 
losi'te shore ; 
 ance a fine 
 the watery 
 round and 
 t of which 
 % and was 
 alongside a 
 drivers and 
 
 nd mackin- 
 '^hose house 
 very steep 
 
 3 streets — 
 , the odd- 
 blinds with 
 bee a very 
 e returned 
 iioved, and 
 ;ead, while 
 id of snow 
 with the 
 
 snt, as we 
 to explore 
 of winter, 
 ty. Lord 
 icting Go- 
 y. Many 
 avoid the 
 I ; and all 
 )usiness in 
 >r nothinii 
 
 WESTERN WANDERI\G8. gj^ 
 
 :LTZt t " °" '^■''^ """"«'' *« Upper Pro- 
 
 nas explored the rernotpst mrfa r>f +1, o 
 
 f /■ «^iiiwuaL parts ot the Jrrovnico and 
 
 ^.n^iu.we.eeivedan.^^^^^ 
 
 Sunday, the llth of September, being cold, dreary 
 
 chmate of Quebec, for the great heat having only just 
 abated, .t api>eared a. if we had plunged frol summed 
 at once .nto winter. Ho.ever,%ome fine days su 
 eeded the bad weather, one of which, as delicious Tl 
 
 to the Chaudi^re Falls on the opposite side of the river 
 and wbch we had been told are superior to those o^" 
 Montmorency With wallets at our sides, containing 
 provisions and sketch-books, we crossed by a fraif 
 rattletrap ferry-steamer to Point Levi 
 
 The steamer was the very worst I ever entered, carts, 
 
 Z!:r^7r''"""' "" "^^^ ^^S^^^^^-' ^^e water 
 horn the paddles was washing over the decks, the shafts 
 
 were exposed, and so were the rudder-chains, in a wav 
 well calculated to catch women's dresses and seriously t; 
 injure them. I met on board an Irish caleche-driver, a 
 very u,tell,gent man, who told me that he had driven in 
 Quebec, where he arrived fiu-thlngless, for sixteen years ; 
 tba he had saved money, and with it had bought a pro- 
 perty m the neighbourhood of Toronto, to which he was 
 on the pomt of removing with his family. 
 
 VOL. I. -^ ^ 
 
 H i! 
 
82 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 " Faith, your lionoiir, tlie Upper Province is, after 
 all, the place to live in. The Lower is all very well 
 when one can't ^et away froni it." 
 
 This is one reason that the Lower Province advances 
 so slowly comj)ared to the Upper, the best men for 
 settlers, the thrifty and industrious, invariably n)ove up- 
 wards when they have made money, or migrate to the 
 States. 
 
 Landing at Point Levi, from a number of caleches, 
 whose Irish and Frtmeh drivers in their n^spective lan- 
 guages offered their services, we selected one driven by 
 a French lad, wlio looked as if he could communicate 
 information, and had, moreover, an active little steed. 
 It was u very light, spidery, large- wheeled, little-bodied 
 vehicle, with a big hood, out of all proportion to its 
 size, and a curiously uncomfortable bit of a seat for the 
 neat, straight-backed, ugly lad who drove— exceedingly 
 well, too, he did drive. He reminded me of the way in 
 which his Neapolitan brethren of the whip dash up and 
 down hills, and turn and back out tlirough the narrowest 
 passes and over the worst roads. Our merry-going, active 
 grey pony spun away with us as soon as we were 
 seated; and along we flew at a great rate, o>ir lad most 
 cleverly evading the worst of the pitfalls and the biggest 
 stones and bits of timber m the road, without once re- 
 laxing his sj)eed ; and even when we came to a precipi- 
 tous ascent, he jumped off, laid a hand on the shaft, 
 and the little horse changed its smart trot into a strong, 
 bounding, pulling gallop, quite delightful to see and 
 feel, and we were at the top of the hill, and the boy on 
 his perch again, in a second. 
 
 The distance from Point Levi to the Falls is about 
 t-en miles, a considerable portion of which is along the 
 
WESTEltN WANDERINGS. gs 
 
 bank, of the riv,.r. whence the view, arc very lovely 
 especjdly look,,,,, b«,.k at Q,.ebc. and the Heigh,, of 
 Abraham, ,„n„ou„ted by Wolfe, Monu,„e„t, the trowds 
 o< ,l„p|„„g I„„ng the ,l,ore, and anehor«l out in the 
 » .-earn, and the magnifioent range of „,o,u,tain, down 
 
 8de of the road are very picturesque. They a,-e of 
 
 extre,,,e y deep vera„,Iah, all round, and ,ta„d on ;e,le,- 
 tol, or terrace* o ,to„e or wood, ,„ that when , now 
 covers the ground they may he rais«l above it They 
 were, ,nd«-d, exactly like Swiss cottages, or the little 
 wooden .nodels one sees brought to E„gla;,d. A co,! i- 
 derable number nestle in the nooks „f the high wooded 
 cbff, under which the road passes; ,md they n.'ust ha^l 
 superb v.ew fro,„ their window,, though I doubt if their 
 mmates can appreciate it .fudging by the ua,„e, over 
 the doors they are all Irish or French. 
 
 Fa,-ther on, scatteml over the co'untry, we passed a 
 number of square tele box-like log cottages, containir,g 
 only one room w,th a huge stove in the centre. We 
 were assnrcl that they are very warm in winter, a, the 
 French ,nmate, allow the ,now to heap up round them 
 to the very roof, often not even clearing it from tl,e 
 Windows. 
 
 A large number of vessels were building along the 
 shore, schooners, brigs, and even ships ; and there was a 
 general air of prosperity in the villages through which 
 we passed, but the fielc^s were mostly small and roughlv 
 cultivated, though the fences were substantial and in 
 good order. 
 
 The most gratifying mark of improvement, however, 
 
 . '' 
 
 t- 
 
 i i 
 
 " 'e 
 
•V 
 
 64 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 was the railway to Uichmond, which we crossed con- 
 tinually, now rapidly advancing' towards completion. By 
 its moans Quebec has now a r:«ilway conuuunication 
 with the States, and will be connected, viil Montreal, by 
 tlie Grand Trunk line with the Upper Province, as also 
 with the fertile district of the Eastern townships, instead 
 of bein^f, as it then was, cut off during the winter months 
 from the rest of the civilised world, except by a dis- 
 agreeable journey over tlie snow. 
 
 We speedily accomplished our ten miles of bumping, 
 when our di-iver, pulling u[) at a cottsige in a field, ex- 
 claimed, *'/,« voilii!" Wo looked and listened, but 
 neither could we see or hear the expected falls. 
 
 " You must go across some fields, and you will come 
 to them," he added. So across these fields we tnulrred. 
 
 Ill O " 
 
 and at last, through a line of trees, saw some spray, and 
 heard a slight roar. Going a little farther, the s{)ray 
 announced its existence by sprinkl'.iig us thorougldy, and 
 then we saw a river tumbling over a black wall of rock 
 in isolated spouts, some eighty feet high or so, with- 
 out any j)retenGions to gi-andeur or even picturesque 
 beauty. We looked up and down, and hi every direc- 
 tion, and then agreed that we had made some unaccount- 
 able mistake, and that this could not be the beautiful 
 Chaudiere we had heard so highly lauded. Still it was 
 a waterfall, and there could scarcely be two together of 
 so large i. size even in the land of torrents. Still 
 doubting, we hcM a retreat from the sj)ray, and, select- 
 ing a shady spot, we sat down on the tnink of a tree, 
 and discussed both the contents of our wallets and the 
 l)ossibility of this being the Chaudiere. Before we had 
 finished our limcheon, we concluded that it could be 
 
 
 I 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 85 
 
 'ossed con- 
 letion. By 
 tuuiiicjition 
 ontroal, by 
 ICO, as tdso 
 ips, instead 
 ter months 
 by a dis- 
 
 f bumping, 
 
 I field, ex- 
 tened, but 
 ills. 
 
 will come 
 e tnuiged, 
 spray, and 
 the spray 
 ighly, and 
 
 II of rock 
 80, with- 
 
 icturesque 
 ery direc- 
 naccount- 
 
 beautiful 
 itill it was 
 Dgether of 
 ts. Still 
 !id, select- 
 
 of a tree, 
 i and the 
 'e we had 
 could be 
 
 nothing ."Iso: and then the horrible idea occurred to us, 
 whether the great Niagara itself might not have been 
 equally over-i)rai3ed, and whether we might not be 
 ecpially disapiK.inted. The s-quel will show. However, 
 when we had satisfied our hunger, we aguii, braved the 
 wetting spray, and ch,acendiiig tho bank a little way, 
 took out our sketch-books, and hi them immortalised the 
 water-fall. We, however, observed that the black rock 
 was full of cracks and cavities, and, recollecting that it 
 was autiunn, and that tho summer had been very dry, 
 we concluded that our informants had seen it under 
 more favourable circumstances for a watery exhibition, 
 after the melting of the winter snows,— and our minds 
 thereon felt hapi)icr with regard to Niagara. At all 
 events, it is superior to some of the Italian water-fails 
 visited by tourists, who, in dry seasons, have to wait till 
 the custos lifts uj) a sluice, and lets down a scant torrent 
 for their edification. 
 
 On our way back we met a large wedding-party of 
 hahitam, as the French Canadians are called. They 
 were a well-dressed, well-looking, and meny set. Indeed, 
 I saw no physical inferiority m them to the English 
 settlers. On the contrary, I observed among them at 
 different times some very fine specimens of humanity, 
 who would have done credit to any nation. I heard 
 tliem, also, always well sp<:>ken of by English friends 
 Ic.ig established in the country, as honest, industrious, 
 good-tempered, obliging, charitable, kind, and intelligent. 
 A magnificent sunset lighted up the cHffs of Quebec 
 and the distant mountains as we recrossed the river. 
 
 Another day, passing through the suburb of St. Roch, 
 I walked to the village of Beauport, on the road to 
 
 
 u il 
 
 1 I 
 ■ I' .. 
 
 I 
 
86 
 
 WESTEnX WAXDERINGS. 
 
 Montmorency, on the other side of the river Charles 
 One of the last gi-eat fires in Qnr^ec took place in 
 i5t. Koch, and consumed the whole quarter. It has been 
 r.^built, and considerably improved in point of appear- 
 ance ; but as the houses are constructed of wood, it will 
 probably b(. burnt down a^rain when, in the course of a 
 year or so, they get thoroughly dried. To prevent fires 
 spreadmg from the sparks falling on the roofs, a law 
 exists by which they should be covered with tin. A 
 friend of mine was residing at a boarding-house kept bv 
 a Canadian, when the sto^-e in his room got red-hot, and 
 set the floor on firo. He rushed to the master of the 
 house to demand his assistance. "Oh, never fear 
 Monsieur," he re])lied, quite coolly. « My house cannot 
 be burnt, for the roof is covered with tin. We have 
 obeyed the law. Monsieur -have no feai-." My friend 
 not having the same faith in his tin-covered roof to ])re- 
 vent a fire from raging which has begun inside, insisted on 
 havmg some buckets of water brought to extinguish the 
 conflagration. In spite of the vast number of dreadful 
 fires which have taken place, the inhabitants of the 
 suburbs will persist in building their houses of wood, and 
 liave hitherto been very careless in bringing a supply of 
 water mto the city. 
 
 The mouth of the Charles River is fiUed with rafts 
 of timber which have been brought down hundi-eds of 
 miles by the tributaries of the St. Lawrence. Here tliev 
 remain m readiness fbr shipment. 
 
 On the shores of the Charles, also, a considerable 
 number of hne ships are built, chiefly by Canacbans. I 
 observed ten buil.ling within sigi.t of each other. I 
 looked over one ^vhicli was of one thousand five hundred 
 
WESTERN WAXDERINGS. 
 
 87 
 
 r Charles, 
 k place in 
 t has been 
 of appear- 
 )od, it will 
 ourse of a 
 event fires 
 )fs, a law 
 b tin. A 
 e kept bv 
 1-hot, and 
 ter of the 
 ver fear, 
 se cannot 
 We have 
 ly friend, 
 jf to j)re- 
 isisted on 
 trnish the 
 dreadful 
 :s of the 
 ^ood, and 
 supply of 
 
 ^'ith rafts 
 idi-eds of 
 ere they 
 
 dderable 
 Lians. J 
 ther. I 
 iuindred 
 
 tons burden, and had some conversation with the builder, 
 a very intelligent man. He told me that she had been 
 sk montlis only on the stocks, and in another month 
 would be launched and have her cargo on board, in 
 readmess to proceed to Enfrland. 
 
 There is very great difficulty in finding crows for the 
 ships built in the country. To supply the demand, a 
 horrible system of crim])ing has hitherto been practised. 
 Every inducement is offered by those most detestable of 
 human beings, the crimps, to the seamen of the English 
 merchantmen to desert; and they are then kept concealed, 
 in a state of drunkenness, till the colonial-built ship is 
 ready to sail ; or they are, perha])s, put on Iward another 
 English ship, which has been deprived of her crew by 
 the very wretches who now sell her ca])tain a fresh one. 
 The men at finjt are of course totally unfit for work, so 
 the pilots and people from the city get the sliip mider 
 way and carry her down the river, and it frequently 
 happens that she is out at sea before the men come to 
 their senses. A naval friend told me that he once 
 boarded a ship just clearing the river, when he found 
 the master in a violent rage with the crimps for having 
 sent him ii dead body instead of a living seaman. The 
 corpse hod been hoisted on board with a number of 
 drunken men, from whom it differed so little in appear- 
 ance that it was only after it had been stowed away in a 
 berth for some time that it was discovered to have been 
 dead sevend days. The annoyance is so great that 
 respectable masters will not go to Quebec if ther can by 
 any possibility get a freight elsewhere. Various plans have 
 been suggested to remedy the evil, and it has been pro- 
 posed to pass a law to compel shipbuilders to import 
 
 
 .' „ 
 
88 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Clews for their ships, or to liave half oftJiem native-born 
 Canadians. I fear, however, that the abuse will exist as 
 long as seamen will get drunk and desert, or till the 
 colony caii breed up a race of mariners capable of man- 
 ning the ships she builds. 
 
 Beauport is a pretty French village, w.th a church 
 having two tall tin spires, and its houses ai>e .n platforms, 
 and have broad verandahs. A few miles beyond it, to 
 the north, close in sight, rise up some tree-covered hills, 
 which form the extreme borders of civilisation. Beyond 
 IS wild forest-land, chains of rugged hills, lakes, and 
 streams, among which the Red Indian and the moose-deer 
 range at large It seems strange to find a complete 
 lie Qref^^^^ *' '^' ^^'^' ""^ '" old-eetablished city 
 
 Oil our walk we met, coming from school, a party of 
 httle Canadmn gn-ls, neatly dressed, with the broadest 
 bnmmed straw-n.ts, extremely pretty features, and full 
 of life ana spmts,- probably the same style of hats in 
 which their ancestors had come across the sea. In- 
 terested m their appearance, I was led to make inquiries 
 vespeetmg the education of the lower orders hi the 
 liastem Province. 
 
 Gov«mnK.nt, it appc^s, is anxious to do its duty in 
 affording the means of instruction to the rising „L- 
 ration but at the very outset it has the greftft of 
 difteultios to overcome. There are no instructors of 
 mtijer sex fit to teach, and the priests, fearful of losing 
 their .nfluonce, throw every impediment in the way 
 which their ingenuity can suggest. Large sums have 
 been voted, as yet to little purjiose, for where the i^ 
 specters of schools are very ignorant, and the inastera 
 
itive-bom 
 II exist as 
 r till the 
 3 of man- 
 
 a church 
 ilatfornis, 
 nd it, to 
 red hills. 
 Beyond 
 kes, and 
 )oso-deer 
 complete 
 ihed city 
 
 party of 
 broadest 
 and full 
 
 hats in 
 Ja. In- 
 nquiries 
 
 in the 
 
 duty in 
 ? geno- 
 itest of 
 tors of 
 losing 
 le way 
 s havo 
 ;ho in« 
 lasters 
 
 WESTERN WANDEKINGS. 89 
 
 and mistresses can scarcely road or write, the unfor- 
 tunate pupils have but little chance of pick^'ncr „p any 
 crumbs of knowledr^e. However, on this, and'on many 
 other mteresting subjects, I hope to enlarge on our return 
 to Quebec. 
 
 m 
 
CHAPTER r. 
 
 The river Saguenay, we wore told, is a locality unrivalled 
 111 interest and magnificence of scenery throughout 
 Canada. Thither, therefore, we resolved to steer our 
 course before proceeding westward. Probably many of 
 my readers have never heard it even named ; yet already 
 ten thousand British subjects, mostly Britons," inhabit its 
 banks; and tiu.se persevering pioneers of civilisation, the 
 hardy lumberers, are every season hewing their way up 
 its tributary streams. 
 
 The mouth of the Saguenay is to be found about a 
 hundred and forty miles below Quebec, flowing into the 
 St Lawrence on its north side. About a hundred and 
 twenty miles from its mouth, in a noi-tli-westerly direc- 
 tion, is the Lake of St. John, a fine sheet of water, 
 whence it takes its rise. A considerable number of 
 rivers, flowing from the wild and hitherto unpi-ofitable 
 regions of the Hudson's Bay Company, fall into the lake ; 
 inany of them are navigable, and one of them is said to 
 be so for a hundred miles from its mouth. The lake 
 itself, ht.ncver, from its comparative shallowness, is very 
 dangerous to navigate: the slightest gale causing a heavy 
 sea to break over its surfai-e. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 91 
 
 Near the mouth of the Saguenay, is tho village and 
 harbour of Tadousac, whence the distance to Chicoutimi, 
 another settlement, is about seventy miles, a short way 
 only above which the river is navigable, as here com- 
 menciis a series of rapids which extend to Lake St. John. 
 For about fifty miles from its mouth, the shores of the 
 Saguenay tower up in perpendicular clil!s, from a thou- 
 sand to fifteen hundred feet in height, giving an air of 
 the wildest grandeur to the scene, while the depth of 
 water is so great, that large ships may sail close under 
 the rocks, so that those on board can look up to their 
 summits, which, beetling above them, appear broken into 
 a variety of fantastic shapes, representing castles, and 
 houses, and trees, anil figures, and faces. In truth, the 
 scenery is very fine, and very wild, and very curious, 
 and, moreover, very httle known to civilised ladies and 
 gentlemen, though a visit to it is now easily accomplished. 
 Far north as it appears on the map, the climate is 
 scarcely as severe as that of Quebec, while on the shores 
 of Lfike St. John it is considerably milder. 
 
 My friend, Mr. Ilussel, told mo that he had explored, 
 in a canoe, a number of the rivers and streams, which 
 run in a somewhat eccentric course to the west and south 
 of the lak(«, and invariably fomid the country in their 
 neighbourhood exceedingly fertile. The great drawback 
 to the district is, that the only means of commimicating 
 with it is by sea, and that for the five long winter months 
 it is comi)letely cut off" from the rest of the world, as 
 between it and Quebec there is a wild desert of a hundred 
 miles or more, across which, in the first place, it would 
 be difficult and ex[)ensive to cut a road, and without 
 inhabitants along it, impossible to keep it in proper repair 
 in summer, or practicable for sleighs in winter. 
 
 Though land may be purchased there very cheaply. 
 
92 
 
 WESTEllN WANDERINGS. 
 
 I do not advise any of my readers to take up tlieir abode 
 in tlie district just at present, unless tliey have a fancy for 
 a complete hermit-like existence. During the summer, 
 however, they might haveplenty of visitors; for a steamer 
 frequently nuis from Mr)ntreal and Quebec to Ila-ha bay, 
 a few miles from the lake; and the previous autumn, 
 a powerful s(3a-going vesi^el ^yas built, called tlie Saguenay. 
 She was now to make a trial-trip, and we waited for her 
 arrival at Quebec, with the intention of proceeding in 
 her, expecting to be absent from between three and four 
 days. We were very anxious, also, to see thi^ grander 
 features of the St. Lawrence, which are to be found only 
 below Quebec. Above it there is nnicli very attractive 
 scenery — the rapids are W'ld and furiou; tlu> Thousand 
 Islands are soft and beautiful, and the width of the jiyer, 
 so many hundred miles from the sea, is in itself interest- 
 ing; but nowhere do the banks rise to an elevation above 
 an ordinary hill, and the term of grandeur is in no respect 
 ap],hcable to it. On going down the stream, on the 
 contrary, soon after one passes the Isle of Orleans, Cape 
 Torment, on the north, rises to the height of nearly two 
 thousand feet above the water, and the river itself ex- 
 pands to a width of about thirty miles. 
 
 The south shore is generally tolerably level and well 
 cultivated, and a number of small towns, villages, and 
 settlements, are scattered along it. On the nortl^ on the 
 contrary, mountain-ranges extend the whole way to the 
 moutli (jf the Saguenay ; but even tliey are not <lestitute 
 of cultivation, and hamlets and farms are to be seen 
 perched on every available spot, often a thousand feet or 
 more above the river. 
 
 The occupants of these mountain abodes are chiefly 
 hahtans. They are a hardy and industrious rar-e, thou.Th, 
 1 doubt, their wisdom in selecting .pots so elevated in 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 93 
 
 their abode 
 a fancy for 
 e summer, 
 • a steamer 
 lu-lia bay, 
 .8 autumn, 
 Saguenay. 
 ed i\)r her 
 ceeding in 
 3 and four 
 le grander 
 bund only 
 attractive 
 Thousand 
 the jiyer. 
 If interest- 
 'ion above 
 no respect 
 1, on the 
 ans. Cape 
 early two 
 itself ex- 
 
 and well 
 
 ages, and 
 
 h, on the 
 
 ay to the 
 
 <lestitute 
 
 be seen 
 d feet or 
 
 'e chiefly 
 , though, 
 vuted in 
 
 that severe climate, except that they must haA^e got tlieir 
 land without payment. Wheat, 1 f-mcy, they cannot 
 raise, but of barley, oats, and i^tatoes, they i)roduce an 
 ample supply. Such was fhe amount of information we 
 received while we waited for the arrival of the Sai.-uenay. 
 The weather, however, having in the meantime be- 
 come cold and rainy, made us fancy that the winter was 
 setting in, and the steamer not arriving at the time 
 expected, our ardour cooled down so much, that we 
 abandoned the excursion, and resohed to proceed west- 
 ward without delay. Little did we then know what we 
 should find the real commencement of a Quebec winter. 
 We hoped to accomplish the trip at a more favourable 
 season ; one 1 should advise every lover of the pictur- 
 esque who visits Quebec to make if he can. 
 
 Another trip we were advised to take in search of the 
 picturesque was to the Falls of Shewinagan, on the river 
 St. Maurice, which runs into the St. Lawrence at .he 
 town of Trois Rivieres. The steamer leaving Quebec in 
 the afternoon reaches Trois Rivieres l)y midnight, a7id 
 there is ample time to make the excursion and to return 
 so as to proceed on to Montreal by the following night, 
 thus losing only a day. There are some tolerable 
 hotels at Trois Rivieres. The best mode of proceeding 
 is to hire a carriage at daylight, and to drive to the 
 portage du Ores, visiting on the way the Forges of St 
 Maurice. This foundry was established ui consequence 
 of the discovery of a fine iron mine. The ore is abim- 
 dant, and said to be ecjual to the best Swedish. Stores 
 of every description, caldrons for potash, and maple- 
 sugar boiling, machinery for mills, wheels for railway- 
 cars, are manufactured, and pig and bar-iron is exported. 
 Upwards of three hundred men are employed. The 
 
 \i • 
 
94 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 \ 
 
 manager is a Scotclinian: but most of the workmen are 
 Canadians. We were to liave had a Jetter to him or to 
 his second in command, and were told that he would 
 gladly have aided us in finding a canoe and Indians to 
 paddle it. As the smallest hut in the country has a stove, 
 and every house has several, recollecting, also, that for 
 five months in the year they are burning day and night, 
 an idea may be formed of the great demand tliere must 
 be for thorn in the country. 
 
 Embarking at the GrOs, a paddle of eight miles 
 carries one to the mouth of the Shevvinairan, or rather 
 to the foot of the falls where it is precipitated into the 
 bt Maurice from a height of nearly two hundred feet. 
 Ihc St. IVIaurice also here makes a considerable descent, 
 uniting its waters with those of the smaller stream in a 
 boihng caldron. On descending again one may shoot 
 the rapids of the Gr6s in the canoe, and return the whole 
 distance to Trois Rivieres b^ water. 
 
 There is a vast qutrntity of lumber cut on the banks 
 of the St. Maurice, and brought down the rapids by 
 slides, such as I shall have hereafter to describe. A 
 large portion of it is conveyed uito the United States 
 through the Richelieu river and canal; and now that 
 timber has become co scarce there it commands a hiah 
 price. This trip, like that to the Saguenay, was put off 
 to another day. 
 
 Meantime we had been making vast preparations for 
 our journey to the "west countrie." I cannot exactly 
 recollect what sort of a land we thought it was: but I 
 believe we had an idea that log-huts and slianties were 
 the prmciital residences; wagons and bark-canoes the 
 chief means of conveyance; and that the inhabitaris 
 prmcipaily wore long beards, and hatchets in their belts 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 95 
 
 and occupied themselves in cutting down trees and 
 digging potatoes. Perhaps Mrs. Moodie, in her very 
 amusing book, or perhaps some other writers on bush- 
 life, had given us this impression— one entertained, I 
 can answer for it, by a very large number of people at 
 home, who do not take the trouble to look into a map to 
 see the position of the locality aLout which they are 
 reading. 
 
 A Canadian friend of ours wa? in England a short 
 time ago, when, on a visit to a country residence, as he 
 was wandering with a fair companion through the 
 grounds, they came to one of those little rustic summer- 
 houses covered over with split branches— very pic- 
 turesque, but totally unlike any real abode — "Ah!" said 
 the young lady, as they entered and sat down, " this is 
 just like the sort of house you live in out there, is it 
 not?" My friend laughed, and assured her that if 
 Canadian log-houses and English summer-houses were 
 not very different, the inhabitants of the former would 
 very soon be frozen to death, and that brick, stone, and 
 mortar, were in pretty general use even in the upper 
 country. 
 
 We, indeed, knew that there was a town called 
 Toronto — we had friends living there, and were bound 
 thither; but whether it was built of brick or wood we 
 had not considered; and certauily we were under the 
 impression that after we had passed Montreal we were 
 not likely to be able to procure any other articles except 
 those of the most ordinary necessity. We laid in, there- 
 fore, a large stock of everything that travellers could 
 require, not omitting even hanuner, uaLls, and rope, to 
 mend the wagons we intended to travel in, should they 
 break down. We discarded all our heavv luffcrafTo, and 
 
 lij 
 
96 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 packed^ our property in small j>ortmanteau8 and cases 
 convenient to be carried~an arrangement from which we 
 atterwardn much benefited. 
 
 All those mighty preparations perfected, on Friday 
 ^optember 16, at five p.m. we went on board the steamer 
 ^.anada, winch wa.s to convey us to Montreal. The 
 weather, though no longer rainy, was cold, and unpleasant, 
 and unpronniing. 1 mention this to mark the change we 
 experienced as we got farther south, as people are too 
 apt to confound the climates of the two provinces* 
 whereas clouds, rain, and storms, may prevail in the 
 Lower Province, while Western Canada may be basking 
 in sunshine and calms. ° 
 
 The view looking back on Quebec as we got a short 
 distance from it was very fine, and on that evening 
 especially the tints were remarkably picturesque; the 
 distant mountains were of the bluest blue; and the sur- 
 re mdmg cliffs were tinged with brightest patches of 
 yellow, and green, and pink, and red, and grey; ,uid the 
 stern, stout walls of the fortress, bristling .Wth guns, rose 
 up on the left, looking down on the hues of shinning 
 which lay secure beneath them anchored across the 
 s ream or moored in every cove, and nook, and bay, 
 along the north shore, ready to take in the mighty logs 
 of timber therein collected. We longed to be able to 
 stop the steamer to make use of our colour-boxes; but, 
 as we paddled quickly on, all we could do was to take a 
 hasiy sketch of tlie lovely scene. 
 
 After a time, as we sat on the after-platform, the 
 
 moovi rose from behind the south bank larger, and redder, 
 
 and rounder than I ever saw her before even in Portu J 
 
 or .tdy. Without making use of poetical license, she 
 
 eemed truly to float in the pm-e ether. Our friend 
 
WESTERN WA.NDEUINGS. 
 
 97 
 
 J and cases 
 [11 wliicli we 
 
 on Friday, 
 till' steamer 
 real. The 
 unpletisaiit, 
 change we 
 pie are too 
 jirovinces; 
 ^ail in the 
 be basking 
 
 got a short 
 it evening 
 sque ; the 
 d the sur- 
 patches of 
 '; and the 
 guns, rose 
 f shipfting 
 icross the 
 and bay, 
 ighty logs 
 >e able to 
 xes; but, 
 to take a 
 
 ■orni, the 
 d redder, 
 J^ortugal 
 enso, she 
 ir friend 
 
 Capta.n West declared that the moon seen in England 
 ooks hko a dab of red putty stuck on a wall compared 
 to the American hnninary; and though among foreigners 
 1 thmk It patriotic and praiseworthy to stand up for 
 everythmg English, even for our sun, ^nd our moon, and 
 our chmate, wo now acknowledged to the full the cor- 
 rectness of his remark, though my readc-rs may not 
 adnnrc-^the poetical beauty of the siniile. 1 looked at her 
 through my spy-glass-a very good one-nn.l could dis- 
 tmguish, more clearly than I ever could before through a 
 common telescope, the mountains, and plains, and the 
 ocean boundaries. She seemed to ascend, too, hi a more 
 rapid way than usual; and, as I have seen a balloon do, 
 she soon shot upwards into a dense cloud, and was hid 
 from sight. After a long contest, however, with heavv 
 clouds, she triumphed gloriously, and gave us her liglJt 
 tor the rest of the niglit. 
 
 By the by, this reminds me that I must join issue 
 with Sir Francis Head on some of his remarks about 
 America as f-ir as Canada is concerned. He says, « The 
 hea%ens of America appear infinitely higher, the sky 
 bluer, the clouds lu-e winter, the air is fresher, the cold is 
 mtenser, the moon looks larger, the stars are bricditer 
 the thunder is louder, the lightning is viNider, tlurwind 
 IS stronger, the rain is heavier, the moimtains are hi.dier 
 the rivers larger, the forests bigger, the phuns broader," 
 than in tlie Old World. Had he spoken only of the rivers 
 and forests, and described the foliage more varied and 
 beautifully tinted in autumn, and the lakes more exten- 
 sive, I should have agreed with him; but, comparing 
 Canada with Groat Britain, the momitains of Scotland 
 and Wales far surpass the latter in height and picturesque 
 beauty; the clouds are as white, the wind as strono-. the 
 VOL. I. jj ^ 
 
 
08 
 
 WE8TEUN WAN'DEHINGS. 
 
 rain as heavy, tho thunder as loud, and tlie h'^hlnin;^ as 
 vivid, I susi»ect, — thoujxh points not more to })oast of than 
 the length of a Portuguese lenirue, whicli f lieard, when 
 travelling in Spain, my J^usitanian attendant deelare far 
 surpassed the miserahle ones in tliat country. " We," 
 (|uotli h(', " havf! got leagues which take three hours to 
 travel, while one may trot over one <»f yours in thirty 
 minutes." The sky is as Idue, the air a;; fresh, the moon 
 looks as larger and the stars as hright, in Italy or Por- 
 tugal ; and p/arely the cold is as intense, and the plains as 
 hroad, in Russiii. That style of description is apt to 
 mislead peo[)lo. We never, again, saw the moon wear 
 other than her ordinary Euroi)ean asf)ect; luid even 
 during the clearest nights in winter the stars were not 
 very unusually bright. Canada has a sufficient abun- 
 dance of excellencies without exaggerating any of them, 
 or giving her qualities she does not possess. 
 
 At tea-time a large multitude collected ; but where 
 they all can>" from pu/zled us, for tliere did not a[)pear 
 to be many scattered through tlie saloon. They rivalled 
 our cousins Jonathan in the si)eed with wdiich the meal 
 was discussed. Why, when there is nothing else to do, 
 people shoidd be in so great a hurry to eat it, is tlifficult 
 to say. I always, like a sturdy Briton, sat quietly at the 
 deserted ta!)les, in spite of the frovras and hints of waiters, 
 till I had at a moderate speed satisfied my hunger. It is 
 to be hoped some day that Americans will learn that 
 tliey can make quite as many dollars without bolting 
 their food, an.l enjoy them iar longer. W- -r,t through 
 the night, howexer, and in the morning found ourselves 
 moored ^) a wharf at Montreal. 
 
 As soon as I had transferred our luggage to the 
 Kijigston steamer, the Ottawa, we went to the Montreal 
 
WESTE'.N WANDERINOS. 
 
 9 
 
 Hotel, near the river, wlu-n- wu t^ot a very 'A^iod biijak- 
 tast ill a eli-an room with eivil atteiidiints. JIji\i»^' 
 returned to the Ottawa at nine, we entered the first look 
 of the La Chine Canal, at the west end of Montrenl. 
 
 This canal was cut at an expense of 137,000/,, to 
 avoid the rapids of St. Louis, and reaches about nine 
 milfjH to the mouth of the Ottawa. It was very curious, 
 us we sat in the cabin, to watdi the vessels, houses, trees, 
 and fields, comhi<,f into si(rht as the big steamer rose in 
 tlie lock ; and still more curious was it to find ourselves 
 passing throuoli a thorouulily rural landscape, ari.i to be 
 unable to see the water on either side. The basin, or 
 (lock, from whiJi we st^u-ted, was crowded with steamers 
 and sailinor craft of all descriptions, while a number of 
 new buildings in the neighbourhood gave si^ns of the 
 increasing |)ros))erity of Montri-al. 
 
 The surplus water from the canal is not allowed to 
 escape witluuit doing its duty. It is made to turn a 
 variety of mill-wheels. Wsiterworks have also been 
 erected to supply the city with the water of the Ottawa, 
 it being considered far more wholesome than that of the 
 St. l^awrence. 
 
 We saw a number of rafts passing through the cannl 
 on their way, probably, from the Ottawa to Quebec. 
 They were compactly formed, but were only small 
 ))i>rtions of the fioathig islands which navigate the St. 
 Lawrence. 
 
 During our voyage through the canal we got a go(xl 
 view of Montreal, and a very fair idea of a large portion 
 of the city and the country to the M'cst of it, which 
 sufficiently repaid us for the somewhat tedious mode of 
 proceeding. 
 
 We rcacliod La Chine at tvNelve, where we found the 
 
100 
 
 Wi:8IEliN WANDERINGS. 
 
 rest of the intended passenirers, who had come thitlier by 
 the railway. Several H<,dit sliips mark the entrance to 
 the canal. Af't(>r waiting an hour, we steamed across a 
 wide expanse, formed l.y the junction of ^' Ottawa with 
 the St. Lawrence, cidled the Lake of St. Louis. 
 
 On the; opi)osite shore to Lachine is tlie Irocpiois 
 settlement of Cauglmawaga, or "the villaao of the 
 rai>ids;" and at the west end of the lake is Isle Perrot, 
 with a windmill at one end of it. There is nothing 
 grand in the features of the scenery, except the mere 
 exi>anse of water at this j miction of the tw(j mighty 
 ri^ ers ; but the banks and islands are wooded and fertile, 
 and in the present utilitarian age this is far b(,'tter than 
 the barren magnificence of rugged mountains and lofty 
 precipices. 
 
 We passed here one of those floating Islands of the 
 St. Lawrence, a log-raft, just come out of the Ottawa 
 probably. It hail on it huts, and sheds, and flag-staffs, 
 and a number of peoi)le, and looked indeed like a village 
 taking a pleasure excursion down the river. 
 
 Soon aft(!rwards we saw, among groups of islands 
 ahead, several lines of dark foam-crested waves, leaping, 
 and tumbling, and r<:)aring, as if about to rush down to 
 our destruction; but Ave, turning south, entered the 
 B^vauharuois Canal, which was constructed by the Go- 
 vernment, to avoid a succession of very foi-midable rapids, 
 known by the names of the Cascades, the Cedars, or the 
 Split-rock, and the Coteau du Lac. This canal cost 
 162,281^. It is eleven and a quarter miles long, and has 
 nine locks. 
 
 Working iipwnrds as we were the steamers pass 
 through the canals, but on their descent they shoot the 
 rapids. We had ascended two or three locks, step by 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 101 
 
 step as it Awre, in a curious manner, wlien we were 
 summoned to the windows of the saloon, »vlience we 
 looked down, as from the ui)per story of a house, on the 
 river to see a steamer, tlie "Jenny Lind," [)erforming 
 that operation. The "Swedish niir]itinoalu " glided on 
 merrily an.l quickly, now rose a little to the heaving 
 billow which bubbled and foamed around her, then 
 plunged a trifle and rose once more, and in a few 
 nn'nutes Avas again in smooth water. There seemed 
 nothing very formidable in the fo^it when those who 
 know every nK-k and stone are at the helm, and nothing 
 but gross carel(!ssncss could cause an accident. We had 
 to look forward till our i-eturn to the pleasure of shooting 
 the ra])ids. I have often descended the Douro, in Por- 
 tugal, through far more turl)ulent-looking v,aters in 
 small flat-bottomed boats, though with a skilful crew I 
 did not feel that I was running the slightest risk. Our 
 steamers ^vheels proj)elled us througli the canal, nor did 
 they appear to injure the embankment. By the by, 1 
 must remark, that the canals of Canada far surpass, in 
 size and solidity of construction, any I have seen hi 
 England. 
 
 We were four hours and a rpiarter in the Beau- 
 harnois canal, passing among green fields and forests, 
 gardens and cottages, so that it was evening before 
 we emerged into a fine exprnise of water called Lake St. 
 Francis. 
 
 The St Lawrence in its course widens frequently 
 into these beautiful expanses, which are called lakes. 
 About halfway through Lake St. Francis, which is forty 
 miles long, stands the village of Lancaster, on the north 
 bank, near the boundary line of the Last and West 
 Provinces. A large body of Glengarry TTigliland.ers are 
 
 ij 
 
 
102 
 
 U'ESTERN WAXDERfXGS. 
 
 located liere. When Sir John Colborne, now Lord 
 Seaton, was C.overnor-General, as a mark of tlieir respect 
 for him, they erected in the neighbourhood a Large cairn, 
 or pile of stones, such as of yore was thrown up for 
 renowned warriors in Scotland. 
 
 The sln:)res and scattered islands were low, scrubby, 
 and dreary, in the extreme, as seen in the evening gloom ; 
 and a more desolate-looking place I never beheld than a 
 little grey, wooden hamlet, sitting on a damp flat tield, at 
 which we stopped to take in wood. Then a strange, 
 hu-id, egg-shaped moon arose over the dull, leaden 
 Avaters, totally unlike the moon of the previous night. 
 TJie air ceased to move, and became heavy and o})- 
 ])ressivc, and dark vapours obscured the blue vault of 
 heaven ; while, as if to increase the threatening aspect of 
 the atmosphere, the funnels of our steamer cast forth 
 immense quantities of large bright sparks, which rose 
 high up above our heads, and then dropped on every 
 side, and far astern, in heavy showers of falling stars ; 
 and as they approached and alighted on the dark, calm 
 water, the tremulous reflexion seemed hastening upward 
 to meet them till they both vanished together. Every 
 instant, too, the night grew more and more sultrv — 
 thunder rolled in the distance, and bright flashes of blue 
 lightning burst forth from the gathering clouds and illu- 
 mined the sky around. At nine o'clock heavy toi-rents 
 of rain came on, at whicli we could look complacently 
 from our snug cabin. They tended much to relieve the 
 weight in the atmosphere. 
 
 We now entered the Cornwall Canal, which cost the 
 Government r>(),00(i/. ; it is eleven and a half miles long, 
 and has seven locks. They are worth examining from 
 their size and the solidity of their construction. Close to 
 
 I 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 103 
 
 the canal is the town of Cornwall, a place of some size, 
 with a ])()pulation of about two thousand. 
 
 Opposite Cornwall, on the south bank, is the village 
 of St. Regis, inhabited hy Iroquois Indians. Here the 
 boundary-line between Lower Canada and the State of 
 New York -strikes the St. Lawrence. Thus the territory 
 going upwards on the left hand is that of the United 
 States, while that on the right is of the Province of 
 Upper or Western Canada. 
 
 It is a curious way in which one literally steps up the 
 St, Lawrence by means of these canals. The huge 
 vessel glides into a space between two stone walls, with a 
 gate at the farther end — a gate is closed behind her, the 
 water which couics from a))ove is slowly let into the 
 space, and as gi-adually slie rises a new country is seen 
 from her deck. The front gate is then opeji, and she 
 having attained an upper level even with another space, 
 the same process is repeated; or, if there is only one 
 lock at that place, she paddles on along the canal, 
 S])lashmg with her paddle-wheels the muzzles of the sage 
 old cows, who look cahnly up at her as they crop the 
 grass in the green fields through which she passes, or 
 putting to flight herds of frisky young colts, or innocent 
 lambs, who cannot make out, for their lives, what strange 
 noisy monster has got into their nursery. To be sure, 
 this process of mounting hjcks is somewhat tedious after 
 the novelty of th(> thing has worn off; but then again, as 
 one may ])e walking about, or eating, or sleej)ing, or 
 reading, or drawing, or talking, it is one's own fault if 
 one cannot find amusement inside the vessel. Thus oui- 
 huge steamer was carried uj) a hill some hundretl feet in 
 height without imy furthc-r manual exertion than that 
 enijiloyed by the old loc^k-keepers in tmnnng the wind- 
 
104 
 
 AVESTERX WAXDERINGS. 
 
 \ 
 
 lasses to open the gates and let in tlie water. They 
 even do not liuny tlicmselves, and I was amused hy 
 seeini!; a fellow umncliing an apple as lie slowly turned 
 his wincli. We went to bed wliile goino tinough the 
 Coniwall canal, and in the night passed several villages, 
 and worked our way agaiiist several rapids not sufficiently 
 forn}idable to be avoided by caiials. We tlnis did not 
 \ niake much way during tliat period. 
 
 On looking out of the window of our cab>n in the 
 morning, we were passing amid smiling, trec-covcTed 
 little islets, and deep, clear, flashing, rapid water, with 
 fields, and woods, and cottages on the banks. We soon 
 after reached the town of Prescott, when we stopped to 
 wood, and found a number of steamers waiting there for 
 the same ol)ject. It was called after Sir G. Prescott, 
 lieutenant-governor of Upper Cauada, It contains about 
 two thousand hihabitants, but for the last ten years has 
 not made much progress. It was a place of considerable 
 trade before tlie formation of the J^ideau Canal, which 
 connects Bytown ^vitli Kingston, and which ti-adc was 
 of coui-se cai-i-ieil tu the latter place. However, its }>ro- 
 sperity will probably return agahi with the opening of 
 the newly-formed railroad between it and Bytowii, to 
 connect that city with the St. Lawrejice, and still more 
 so when the Grand Trunk llailway comes into opera- 
 tion. 
 
 Tlie river is liere a nu'lo and a half broad, and 
 directly opposite Prescott is the American city of Ogdens- 
 burgh, which I must confess, in size and appearance, far 
 suriiasses her JJritish sister. Seven miles farther on we 
 came to the attractive-hxiking little town of lir(,ckvillo, 
 called after the well-bel..ved General Brock, who was 
 killed in the last American war. The many small 
 
They 
 
 rh the 
 
 AVESTER _\ W AN DERING S. 
 
 105 
 
 islands soattered before it, th(5 fine width and cleamess of 
 the river, its grey, rocky banks, its elegant villas, its 
 neat cottages, its spires and houses, its surrounding 
 woods and green sniiHng fields, with a number of gaily- 
 painted pleasure-boats anchored near it, niadi? it ajipear 
 to cnv eyes by far the prettiest place we saw in Canada : 
 indeed, in that style of calm, soft, cheerful scenery, it 
 would be difficult to find a place to surpass it in beauty. 
 
 The Lake oi' the Thousand Islands, as a wide ex])anse 
 of the St. Lawrence is called, full to overflowing of 
 islets, may be said to connnence in sight of Brock ville. 
 The locality is famed throughout Canada for its lieauty, 
 — and l)eautiful, or rather prettv, I should certainlv <av 
 it IS ; but it has no right to claim any larger amount of 
 })raise. There are in all, some scattei-ed up and down 
 the stream, and the rest grouped together, the full score 
 of a thousand, all so much alike that it is impossible for 
 a passing stranger to distingiiish one from the other. 
 A light-house on one of the easternmost isles put me in 
 mind of a shepherd's dog dri\ing an unruly flock of sheep 
 befoi-e him, some of whom have cmtrived to slip back 
 again to the rear. 
 
 The islands are rocky, covered with gi-aceful, feathery 
 trees, and are of various sizes, some of several acres, and 
 others witli a single solitary bush growing on them, or 
 still smaller, sciux-ely affording resting-ground to the 
 wild fowl which inhabit the regions. Tht-y are interest- 
 ing, Ik »wever, from the variety of tlieir shapes and their 
 positions, now clustering togetner, and leaving passages 
 so narrow, that the steamer (;an scarce force her way 
 between them, or separating to a distance and allowing 
 fine broad, lakelike expanses of clear wate-; to appear. 
 Had not our expectations been raised too hio-h, J 
 
 ! ''I \ 
 
 J . t 
 
106 
 
 WES'I EK N \y A \ i ) E i; I N OS. 
 
 should probalily have felt more inclined to cnlaro;e on the 
 beauties of the Lake of tlie 'J'housand Islandsr Let it 
 rest content with its ealm loveliness, with its orev rocks 
 Its clear, blue, sparklino- waters, its graceful trees, and its 
 autunni-tint(;d leaves, and well is it worthy of the ])ainter's 
 bi-ush and the poet's ])rais(!. 
 
 Soon after clearing the islands, we stopped to wood at 
 a place calleil Garron.jchray, which may l)e taken as a fair 
 s])ecimen of a new Canadian village. There was a rough 
 wooden quay, built of imhewn, unbarked timber, wiUi 
 numberless piles of wood heaped up in long rows around, 
 ready to supj^ly the steamers on the river. Along the 
 shore, and extending back from it, were rows of plank 
 cottages, mostly of th.- natural colour of the wood a little 
 darkened by exposure: others i)alnted white, and some 
 black. There was a rough, muddy road leading from a 
 distance tlown the centre of the \illage, with a raised 
 plank footpath by the side of it. Behind it, and circling 
 round it, was the dark i)ine-forest, out of which this 
 nook, where trie location stands, has been cut. The spire 
 of a church, and some ambitious store, or wealthiei- 
 settler's mansion, were seen a little beyond the other 
 buildings. A few canoes were on the shore, and others 
 padtUing about, with boys or Indians fishing. A. cart 
 was standing ir. a yard rudely pah.^d in. There were a 
 few cattle in the neigh))ouring fields, some rough men 
 and women, in rougher habiliments, moviuij about, and 
 here and there wreaths of white smoke curlino- upwards 
 to the calm blue sky, with the bright waters flashin.v in 
 front of the landscape. Such is an exact picture of the 
 «cene before us. 
 
 We had several passengers on board, to on(}ofwhom, 
 a resident of Kingston, ne are indebted fl^r nnicli after 
 
nEST£R\ NVANDERIXGS. 
 
 107 
 
 Ji;e on the 
 Let it 
 ev rocks, 
 s, and its 
 ])iiinter's 
 
 wood at 
 as a Mr 
 a rouo;li 
 )er, -with 
 < around, 
 long the 
 of phink 
 d a little 
 lid some 
 f from a 
 a raised 
 circling 
 lich this 
 'he spire 
 realthier 
 le other 
 d others 
 A cart 
 were a 
 gli men 
 ut, and 
 ipwards 
 liing ill 
 
 i of the 
 
 'whom, 
 h after 
 
 kindness, courtesy, and attention. When we then met 
 for the first time as strangers, he gave us mjiny very 
 useful hints and much valuable information. I entered 
 into conversation also with a very amusing and original 
 character. 1 had observed near me at dinner a dame 
 whose use of the knife and fork showed that she did 
 net belong to the more polished orders of society, yet 
 from her inde})endence of manner that she did not feel 
 'lerself in the slightest degree out of place. 1 found 
 that she was the well-known and much-esteemed Mrs. 
 Belton, keeper of the })arlian\entary fnut and luncheon- 
 itore. Wlierever tlie eccentric legislature of Canada 
 moves, there she follows, ready to sujtply the hungry 
 members with their midday meal Born an Irish wo- 
 man, she married a soldier and followed his ibrtvuies for 
 thirty years half round the globe — to the Cape, the West 
 Indies, and every part of Canada. During tliis time lie 
 became a sergeant, when she kept a canteen. Her ad- 
 ventures on the Lakes were amusing. She told us how 
 slie had been wrecked with a large party, among whom 
 were several Indians, on an island ; how they caught 
 sahnon and trout ; and how, having saved some flou?-, she 
 made paste, and, fastening it, with some fish, on the ends 
 of sticks round a fire, she produced some dishes which 
 astonished everybody. On the dtsath of her husband, 
 she went into service as cook, but she had been inde- 
 pendent too long to like the life, and so st?t up her pre- 
 sent business, in whicli she flourishes. She is a first- 
 rate [HJiitician, and knows everything that goes on better 
 than most members of the Lcgislatur(?, and speaks of 
 men and their manners Avith the greatest freedom; while, 
 judging from the hearty slap on the bajk slie gave a 
 young officer on board, she is hail-fellow-well-met with 
 
108 
 
 WESTEUN \V\SI)EIUS('.9. 
 
 hL'v very large circle of acquaintance among the niilitary 
 
 as well as the civil members oi' 8(x-iety. 
 
 After leaving the Tlmusancl Islands, tlie river ex- 
 FHK^ m-y n.uch. We mnv passed the north shore of 
 
 Wolfe s Island, on the other side of which is the Ameri- 
 can chann..! of the St, Lawrence, issuing from Lake 
 Untario. 
 
 Ivin,:,ston then, with its white stone forts a)id mar- 
 tello towers, its towM-hall, and churches and villas, an- 
 peare( on our right; un.l very soon, with the wide, 
 oeean-hke expanse of Lake Ontario before us, our voyage 
 ter^unated at one of its quays, where lay, also, a number 
 of ^vhite-pamted vessels, chiefly three-masted schooners, 
 arge cloud-hke craft, with sharp bows, long low hulls 
 c^nd w,de-spreadmg snowy canvass. Picturesque they 
 are, but there is a thorough fresh-water look about them. 
 ^Vo took up our abode at the British American Hotel 
 winch we found as comfortable as the excessive heat 
 wou d a low us to be. The storm which had raged over 
 our heads on Saturday had, we found, done much mis- 
 (•met here, mjuring several people severely. 
 
 Kingston is no longer a riaval station, the last shin 
 of war havu,g been sold two years ago. Government, 
 however, wished to have steamers at command, and 
 consequently paid 5000/. towards the building of the 
 Magnet, thai she might be sufficientlv strengtlL.ed for 
 ^^'ar purposes; thus securing also to tliemselves the ri^ht 
 of buying her. As, howe^'er, she was built of iron before 
 It was discovered that round shot have an ugly knack of 
 gomg m on one side and con.ing out at the othe.-, between 
 wmd and water, she would have been of little use for the 
 purpose for which she was intended. They made a 
 Mnnlar bargam about a vessel on Lake Huron ; but the 
 
WESTER X WAX DE RINGS. 
 
 109 
 
 le 
 
 militmy 
 
 incr ex- 
 
 I sJiore of 
 he Anieri- 
 »nn Lake 
 
 a) id mar- 
 villas, ap- 
 tlie wide, 
 ir voyage 
 
 II number 
 eliooners, 
 ow hulls, 
 lue they 
 )ut them. 
 m Hotel, 
 iive heat 
 ged over 
 icli mis- 
 
 ast ship 
 'niment, 
 nd, and 
 of the 
 sued for 
 lie ricrht 
 1 before 
 nack of 
 between 
 for the 
 iiude a 
 )ut the 
 
 owners wishing to sail lier under American colours, did 
 some smuggling in her, and by a, private arrangement 
 witli some smart Yankees, got her seized and bought up 
 immediately l)y their friends. So the Government have 
 Jost their .5000/., and if we should ever unl]apj)ily quarrel 
 with the Americans, they would have tlie war-steamer 
 which ought to have been ours. 
 
 However, it is jjleasanter, more satisfactory, and more 
 C(msoling, to see suspension-bridges and railways running 
 across the Niagara river, and steamers and ferry-boats o'f 
 every descrij)tion plying iiourly from shore to shore, than 
 to^ have our forts bristling with cannon and the dockyards 
 of Kingston crowded with vessels of war. Unless Great 
 Britain could have kept up a regular fleet on those inland 
 waters, it was far wiser in her to disarm completely, as 
 she has done,— a strong proof to her cousins o/ her 
 earnest desire for peace. To be sure, she miglit have 
 saved her 10,000/. by inquiring a little more into the 
 state of affairs, much in the same way that she might 
 have avoided sending out water-tanks for the vessels 
 building on these fresh-water lakes during the last war ! 
 The peoj)le of Canada will have to look after their own 
 naval and military, as well as civil affairs ; and if they 
 will go to loggerheads with their neighbours, they must 
 create a Board of Admiralty on the spot, better able to 
 manage matters for them than one across the Atlantic. 
 
 A considerable immber of merchantmen are built at 
 Kingston, chiefly for the lake navigation; but a short 
 time ago a builder linislied a large vessel, which, with ; 
 
 a 
 
 
 Canadian crew, he navigated to Liverpool, where he 
 sold her so well that he is tiow building another to take 
 to the same market. I was mucli pleased with the hand- 
 some appearance of a large three-masted schooner, called 
 
liu 
 
 WESTERN WA NllElUXGS. 
 
 tJie Cloud. Slio was a 1otil% low craft, [laiiited white 
 with a touch of red j.aint, tdunt masts, and snowv 
 canvass,-altogethcr a very phantoui-like bark, fit to 
 figur.' in juo of Cooper's adiiiirahle sea romances. 
 
 A (Mirious phenoMunion takes place on the lakes with 
 regard to the rise and tall of the waters. On Lake 
 Ontario there is a considerable rise every fourteen years. 
 The water takes seven years to rise and seven to fall ; 
 and this year, 1853, it had been higher than was ever 
 before known; but liad already decreased considerably. 
 We were shown a quay which it had completely covered, 
 and which had now again emerged from the water. I 
 made a imndxir of iiiquiries as to an explanation of the 
 cause of the phenomenon, and read several papers on the 
 subject ; but none of them were satisfactory. The wind 
 by some is said to be the agent, and certaiidy the wind 
 has a great effect on the lakes, and will raise the water 
 to a considerable height in the direction towards which 
 it blows, especially if th(^ shores ther.> narrow much. A 
 better solution of the mystery is, that the current issuing 
 from the lakes throws up a bank in the St. Lawrence, 
 and thus decreasing thi size of the aperture, throws back 
 the mass of water above it; but that havhig attained a 
 certain elevation, it is gradually worn away by the force 
 of the water rushing from the lake, which thus Hnding 
 an outlet, subsides by degrees to its natural level. 
 
 Vessels of some hundred tons burden may pass by 
 means of the canals into Lake Ontario, and from thenc^ 
 by the Welland Canal into Lake Erie, and on through 
 Lake St Clair to Lakes Muron and Mi<»higan, and verv 
 soon when tlie Saute St. Marie Canal is finished, into 
 the far-off miirhty Superior itself. J was, therefore, at 
 first surprised to h'nd that more sea-going vessels did not 
 
WESTERN WANDEHINGS. 
 
 HI 
 
 perform tlin voyacre, till I was ri'ininded uf the iiicom- 
 pura I. ly cheaper rate at which vessels adapted tor inland 
 naviiration can be sailed, than those fitted for the heavy 
 seas and storms of the ocean. A har^^o suited for the 
 waters of the St. Lawrence costs (say) 300/., while her 
 amphibious crew of aspiring seamen, with hay-seed still 
 m tJieir hair and tar on their hajids, are content with low 
 wages while learning th jir new business ; whereas a sea- 
 going craft of the same bui'ilen costs 2000/. and her crew 
 of real seamen demand the full wages of their class,— 
 thus merchants can atford to pay the expenses of ti-ans- 
 slupment, and still em[)loy less capital, by using barges and 
 steamers, while the vessels are sent back across the ocean. 
 We readied our hotel, whi<;h is at no great distance 
 from the Avater, at about half-past one; and as it was 
 Sunday, we attended divine service at a church near at 
 hand, performed especially for the beneht of the troops 
 quartered there. We found that we nmst remain at 
 Kingston till three o'clock on the following day, tJie 
 steamer awaiting the arri\al of the Montreal boat, which 
 on Sundays leaves later in the afternoon. 
 
 The heat was almost as great as it had been at New 
 York, and we did not therefore see much of Kingston at 
 that time ; Ave, however, got out sufficiently to form some 
 idea of the place. It can certainly boast but of little 
 picturesque beauty, and even the usual features of a 
 Canadian landscape are wanting; for every tree in the 
 neighbourhood has been cut down. The streets are well 
 laid out, broad and clean, rising on a gentle slope from 
 the water ; many of the houses ai-e of granite, and the 
 market-place, or town-hall rather, has a fine apj^earance, 
 while Fort Frederick, joined to the city by a bridge, and 
 Fort Flemy, the [>rincipal fortification on the other side 
 
112 
 
 WEjilTERN WANDKUIXGS. 
 
 of Navy Bay, liavi' an im]M)sin(: ctK-ct, increased hy tlie 
 nuirtclkt towors, wln"ch skirt tli<? shoro. Fovt Jfcnry 
 stands on a liiJI n.^jiiig from tlio water; the {'nmt is 
 scarped, and it is in tlie most modern style of fortification. 
 The views from it of tlie town, the harhour, tiie htke, tlie 
 ishinds, and tlie American shore, are very interestiiin; 
 
 Kini^ston stands on the site of the old Fort Cataraijui. 
 wliicii was afterwartls channed to tliat of Fort Frontenac, 
 in lionour of the French Viceroy, Count de Frontenac. 
 The seat of government was removed to it from Toronto 
 in 1841 l)y J.ord Sydenhain, hot it was once more 
 transferred to !\[(.)itreal in IH44, and has not since been 
 brought back.* Wiien the troops h'ave the town, which 
 they probably veiy shortly will do, if; will de])end alone 
 for its pros[)erity on the energy of its citizens and its 
 position as a mercantile post. 
 
 The market-house is the finest and most substantial 
 in Upper Canada; it cost 25,000^., and besides, the mar- 
 ket below it contains the town-hall, several public offices, 
 and some large stoi-es. It has a fine dome. To the top 
 of the dome a\ e mounted, and enjoyed an extensive \iew 
 of the lake and islands, the beautiful country towards thf* 
 6iu of Quinte on one side, and on the other Navy Bav, 
 with the connnencement of the Bideau Canal, the forts, 
 and the St. Lawrence flowing away in the distance. 
 
 There is in the city a large Presbyterian collegiate 
 institution called Queen's C^ollege, as also a Roman 
 Catholic college and cathedral. 
 
 Near the town, in the direction of the Bay of Quinte', 
 
 at Portsmouth Harbour, is the Provinci;d Penitentiary 
 
 for both provinces. It contains about four himdreil men 
 
 and twenty-five women, who are so far ke\,i. on the 
 
 * It lias Litely been removed from Quebec to Torouto. 
 
WE^^TEUN WANDERINGS. 
 
 113 
 
 Silent system that tl.oy are allcw.-d only to sfK^ak about 
 the work on whi.l, they are cMigai;,..!. The mon are 
 employed n. cabin(.r-makin^, shoennaklnu, brush-making. 
 &c. ; and the uo.nen bind shoes and mend elofhes. This 
 work is now leased out, at one shilling per diem for each 
 person, to an American, who is allowed to come in and 
 sup-nntend theiu, so that he may get his due quantum 
 o work performs. Each man, o,i being dismissed, is 
 allowed a suit of clothes and four dollars to tin.l his way 
 home. The building, which we saw well from the lake 
 18 a remarkably fine granite edifice, with round towers 
 and high walls. 
 
 To the west of the city there are several fine houses, 
 with colonnades in front, and a number of very pretty 
 villas. In its neighbourhood, also, to the wesl^, is the 
 beautiful Buy of Quinte, a.s a narrow channel, with 
 numberless sinuosities and offshoots to the north of 
 Prmce Edward's Island, is called. The whole shor<. is 
 covered with fine woods, interspersed with villas and 
 ^irm-houses, orchards, coni-fields, and green mea.lows. 
 W e Wi>re strongly advised to make an ( xcursion up this 
 same Bay of QuinK^', which would occupy a couj.le of 
 days gomg an<l returning; but "Westward! west- 
 ward ! ho !" was then our cry. 
 
 vor, I. 
 
VIKW Of TORONTO, IfUOM I 
 
 CHAPTER YI. 
 
 After a licavy shower we ombarked, at three o'clock 
 (jii Monday, Sejitember 19, on board the Magnet, Cap- 
 tain Sutlierland — by far the most seaworthy-Iookinc- 
 steamer we met with in American waters, thanks to the 
 liberahty of the British government. Our skij.jKr, also, 
 was an oM salt; and he told me tjuit it was only the 
 previous year, in consequence of tlu^ remonstrances of his 
 passengers, he had been compelh.'d to build a saloon on 
 deck, previous to which she was a reguiai" flush-deck. 
 
WESTEilN \VA\DE11INGS. 
 
 11, 
 
 S(>a-going vessel ; Init her accoinniodatioii was, in const- 
 Hueiice, very- limited. 
 
 Slie had on board a most useful style of life-l.)uo\'. 
 It was a seat m the shape of an hour-glass, and the i)art 
 winch would be of glass made of tin, water-tight. While, 
 however, the captain wa.s careful to save hi's passengers 
 from drowning, they and the stewards seemed verv care- 
 less about beirjg luirnt Unp-uarded candles were I. 'ft 
 most tlioughtlessly close to the bed-curtains in the 
 cabins; and sucii \vas frequently tlie case in other 
 American steamers. 
 
 The \iew of the St. La^vrcnce, as it rushes full- 
 grown at its birth from Lake Ontario, with Fort Hein-y 
 on the left, and Wolfe's Island and tlie American shore 
 on the right, is very interesting; and seen with the 
 ciiangefu] light of a storm-threatening sky was highly 
 picturesque. We met a tolerably strong breeze as we 
 coasted along Prince Ed\>ard's Island. 
 
 There is something very grand in tlie contemplatit.n 
 
 of those vast lakes as one enters them for the first time, 
 
 the long line of forest-covered shore on one side, the trees 
 
 <v<tending, one knows, for luuulreds of miles far away, 
 
 till they become stunted, dwarfed, and finally destroyed by 
 
 the icy blasts of the North Pole; then, on^he other, the 
 
 Nvide sheet of glittering waters, fresh and pure as the 
 
 crystal fountain, ^^■\\h its horizon unljounded to the eve, 
 
 and here and there white glancing sails coming into view! 
 
 increasing the idea of their extent. Then to remend)er 
 
 that these waters, aided by the science and industry of 
 
 man, ntWml a comnuuu'cation far towards the interior of 
 
 that mighty continent to fertile lands, where, on hundreds 
 
 of miles of yet uninhabited coast fit for the abode of 
 
 u "'.lions of human beings, no axe has yet been heard to 
 
116 
 
 AVESTEHX WANDERINGS. 
 
 sound, no plough lias 1)roken up a sod. But still more 
 strange is it to find one's-self on tliose fresh-water 
 expanses wh(m strong winds are blowing, and tlieir fretful 
 surface is lashed into foaming seas. Far rather would I 
 be in a heavy gale in mid-Atlantic tlian on one of those 
 inland lakes, the luige, but fr.iil-looking craft rolling, and 
 pitching, and heaving, and tumbling, groaning, and 
 creaking, and appearing as if every instant she was about 
 to go down bodily, or turn the turtle. Many an old salt 
 finds himself strangely moved on such occasions, and has 
 to acknowledge that the men who navigate those waters, 
 though they do float on the beverage they drink, ctmaot 
 be such despicable seamen after all. 
 
 We in the Magnet tumbled about a little, but not 
 near ruough to disturb our equanimity . The strangest 
 thing to me was to find myself on the deck of a vesser, to 
 watch an ocean apparently (^ncircling me, and to feel a 
 strong breeze blowing in my iacc, but to find that breeze 
 totally unlike any sea-breeze I had ever inhaled before- 
 balmy and cool, but without a jwrticle of salt in it, with- 
 out briskness or animation, vapid and dull: it was like 
 iced sugar and water compared to chainpagnc. I was no 
 longer surprised at an old seama?) dwelh'ng far up the 
 country pining, and at last dying, for want^of a sniff of 
 the briny ocean. I felt myself that I could not go long 
 without it 
 
 We found our cnbin very comfortable, and everybody 
 on board most civil and attentive. A grey mornino-, 
 which bv degrees brightened as the sun mse, and a fine' 
 fresh l;)reeze just crisping the water, and adding to it life 
 and animation, gave p,romise of a fine day. Tlie mists, 
 too, which lay like snow-drifts in the valleys on the shore 
 to our right, gradually floated away ; and"^ a line uf low 
 
still more 
 Vesh-water 
 lieir fretful 
 r-r would I 
 le of those 
 oil in (T, and 
 ming, and 
 M'as about 
 an old salt 
 IS, and has 
 )st' waters, 
 tik, cannot 
 
 ;, but not 
 ? stranjrest 
 . vessel, to 
 
 to feel a 
 hat breeze 
 I before — 
 n it, w ith- 
 . was like 
 
 I was no 
 iw up the 
 
 a sniff of 
 t go lon<; 
 
 iverybody 
 morning, 
 and a fine 
 :>" to it life 
 Die mists, 
 the shore 
 lo uf low 
 
 n-ESTERX WAXDERINGS. 
 
 117 
 
 cliifs, surmounted by feathery trees, were seen lieading 
 lis, and circling round to tlio left; and soon after the 
 steeph's, and spires, and domes, and white buildhigs, of 
 Toronto ap])eared before us in the distance.* 
 
 Toronto faces about south-east ; and, from the north 
 side of the city, a very narrow tongue of land, with a 
 line of trees on it, springs out, and sweeping round to the 
 south and w«;st, forms a breakwater in front of the city, 
 with a long, spacious bay or lagoon inside ; thus creating 
 a most j)erfect and valuable natural harbour. Vessels 
 and boats, with white sails, moving inside this fringe of 
 wood, had a very ])ictures(pu' apjiearance ; and the blue 
 water and clear sky, the bright sun and sparkling atmo- 
 sphere, made everything look doubly beautiful. Beyond 
 rose the city on a gentle slope, backed by a dark pine- 
 forest, some hundred and twenty feet above the water. 
 On the south-west end of the point is a lighthouse, 
 rounding which we entered the harbour, having passed, 
 on our right hand, a fine stone edifice with a lai^ge dome, 
 the provincial lunatic asylum ; the new Church-of-Eng- 
 land University, Trinity College ; and an extensive stone 
 pile, formerly the House of Assend)ly, and now converted 
 to the use of the l^nivci-sity of Toronto. Having touched 
 at one quay to put some passengers on board a steamer 
 bound for Niagar, , we proceeded to another, v.here we 
 landed near se\eral other steamers and a crowd of sail- 
 ing craft, giving us at once a favourable idea of the 
 mercantile prosi)erity of the place. 
 
 When leaving Quebec, we liad, as I said, a sort of n 
 indefinite notion that Toronto was a rt-gular city of the 
 backwoods — in point of civilisation a century or so 
 behind that town and Montreal, and in j)oint of archi- 
 
 * My sketch hHows the position, but in no way does justice 
 to the "dzii and hundsumc appearance, of the cit)'. 
 
 I 
 
ilh 
 
 WESTEIJ N WAN DERIXGS. 
 
 tecture, u primitive jumbl(> of log-hiifs, brick-lHiildiiifTs, 
 inud-cottages, and plank-iiovisos and slianties. We ]iad 
 lieard it spoken of bj some conij)urntively recent travel- 
 lers as - muddy little' York ;" and ]\Irs. Moodle had led us 
 to expect to find everything in the rough heyond the 
 shores of the St, Lawrence, Our surprise, therefore, 
 was very great, and very agreeable, to find ourselves in a 
 large, handsome, adTnirably-lald-out city; the streets 
 wide, long, and straight, running at right angles to each 
 other, and with many fine public buildings, and stores, 
 and private houses in them ; and with shops, which, in 
 size, elegance, and the value of their contents, ma}' vie 
 with those of any city in England, except, i>erhaps, 
 i.ondo!! an.l Liverpool. It is especially free from the 
 narrow, dirty lanes to be found in nearly all the cities of 
 the Old World, and even in Quebec and Montreal, anrl 
 the old French towns of Canada; while all the outlets to 
 the harbour are broad and spacious, and allow an ample 
 sco],e for the erection of fine (^uays and Avharves, which 
 London might well envy. Most of the streets not only 
 run through the city without a tm-n and with equal 
 width from one end to the other, })ut extend far away 
 into the country, so as to allow of its indefinite extension"^; 
 and as the gr )und on either side is laid out in buildino-. 
 lots, it is already making rapid strides into the country. 
 Yonge Street, indeed, may boast of being the longest in 
 the world; for it extends for upwards of fbrty mile's, only 
 it does not happen as yet to have houses on either side Jf 
 it for the whole distance, T believe, however, that alono- 
 Its entires length, from the shore of Lake Ontario to tha't 
 of Lake Simcoe, very little uncniltivated ground is to be 
 found, as there is on either side of it a succession of some 
 of the finest farms in Canada, the property of many of 
 her most respectable settlers. To those n\ ho take dvU'^M 
 
WESTERN AVANDE1UXG8. 
 
 119 
 
 :-buil(liiie:s, 
 We luul 
 !ent travel- 
 ; bud led us 
 jojond the 
 
 therefore, 
 'selves in a 
 ■he streets 
 les to each 
 uul stores, 
 
 which, in 
 s, ma A' vie 
 , i>erhai)s, 
 
 from the 
 le cities of 
 itreal, and 
 
 outlets to 
 
 an ample 
 .^es, which 
 
 not only 
 "itli equal 
 far away 
 'xtension ; 
 buildinir- 
 ! country, 
 longest in 
 liles, only 
 er side of 
 hat along 
 io to that 
 1 is to be 
 I of some 
 
 many of 
 e d'-'li.'.'h.t 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 m 
 
 in agricultural prosperity, there cannot be a more in- 
 teresting drive than an excursion of ten or tventy niiles 
 through Yonge Street. 
 
 In speaking of Toronto as a very handsome city, it 
 must be understood rather that it contains all the requi- 
 sites for becoming one. As yet it is young ; its prosperity 
 is of late yeai-s, and it contains many of the imperfections 
 of youth ; but so rapid has been its progress, and so 
 rapid will it, I think, continue, that those imperfections 
 which 1 speak of to-day may in another year or so have 
 completely vanished. Though in many of the streets 
 there are rows of handsome brick and even granite 
 buildings; in their near j)ropin(iuity are to be found 
 small and shabby hous 's of i)lank ; though the streets are 
 broad, many of them are undrained, uiupacadami/ed, and 
 full of holes and ruts, while a narrow ])]ank-causeway 
 aifbrds the only nieai. by which passengers on foot can 
 traverse them. This foot vav, however, is throuo-hout 
 the city kept in good repair and clean, so that in the 
 wettest weather a dry walk can always be found. 
 
 The soil on which the city is built is of a fine sandy 
 nature, and in the streets, left in their primitive condition, 
 the hot sun in sunnuer creates masses of dust, wdiich the 
 wind wantonly blows into thick and disagreeable clouds. 
 Fortunately for us, some heavy rain had laid the dust, 
 so that we did not suffer from this infliction. Great 
 exertions, however, were being made by the corporation 
 of the city both thoroughly to drain and macadamize the 
 streets ; and, fortunately, having fewer prejudices to over- 
 come tlian London Aldermen or British C(^mmissioners of 
 Sewers, they every year contrive to get a considerable 
 I)ortion of work done on a sj'stematic and good plan, so 
 that by the time any reader of this Avork visits the i)lace, 
 
 I 
 
120 
 
 ^\ ESTEUX ^\'A N DERIXG S. 
 
 he nuiy fiiul the whole city as well paved, well drained, 
 and well lighred, as any in Euro|»ee ^rom all I could 
 hear and sec, [ shouhi think it as healthy a place as any 
 in Canada; and as the gentle slope on which it stands 
 aftbnls every facility for perfect drainage, this all-im- 
 |)ortant point may be attained, while from the higher 
 gronnd ahove it, watr-r may be carried up to the tops of 
 tiie bouses. 
 
 To'-onto is bounded on each side by a small river. 
 That to tlie north, the Don, is slow and meandering, with 
 l)icturesque banks ; while the Humber, on the south, is a 
 rapid, brawling, niill-tui-ning stream, with still higher 
 and more romantic banks, along which we took a very 
 interesting, though somewhat upset-risking drive. 
 
 VVe went to Beard's, now RusselFs Hotel, which will 
 be found, unless it has altered for the worse, a very com- 
 fortable and well-ordered establishment. We reached it 
 while breakfast was still on the tal)le in the \mg eating- 
 salor*n— a meal to which wo were able to do ample 
 justice. The Canadian hotels have very nuich the same 
 system of managemc.'ut as tlie American, tliough in ajD- 
 pearance not so handsome or luxurious ; but their guests 
 have the advantage of seeing their dinnej-s put on the 
 table in English fashion ; and if they are late for any 
 meal, of being able to procure food to iati^fy their hunger 
 witlumt being obliged to Avait for the next prepared for 
 the public. Most of them, however, have dinner at the 
 very inconvenient hour of two o'chx^k, and at fin;t we 
 had son.e little ditHculty in getting our appetites sharpened 
 sufficiently fv partake of it at that time. 
 
 The weather whm we landed was ver}- hot and sultry, 
 though in the open air it Mas in no way\)i)presslve. As 
 soon as we had broakfa^ted and dressed, we chartered a 
 
WESTEIiX UAVDEIIINGS. 
 
 121 
 
 cab to carry ourselves and card-cases, and drove off to 
 leave a packet of letters of intro.liiction. Our vehicle 
 was reniarkul.ly like a raudorn London cab in shape; 
 hut it had heather curtains at the sides, and the doors 
 were taken off to allow a frci-r circulation of air— a very 
 ifensihle arrangement in hot weather. We had the plea- 
 sure of finding most of the persons we called on at home, 
 and we afterwards received from them all the greatest 
 kindness and attention. 
 
 In the course of our drive, we went two or three 
 iniles along Yonge Street, and for the greater part of the 
 distance there were few spaces uid.>uilt on. We were 
 amused with the mode in which the shop-kt>cpers exhibit 
 their rivalry, each trying to outvie the other in the size 
 of the letters with which his cjdlitig and the goo<ls he has 
 to dispose of are notified, either over his shop-tloor or at 
 the side of his house; 
 
 An old family friend on whom we called invited us 
 to dimier. Thougli a])le to live in the most jwrfect 
 luxury in England, having a largo juunber of sons and 
 daughters, ho judgc-d it svisc to enn'grate to a land where 
 he might find employment for his boys. He travelled 
 through the States and a greater part of Canada, and 
 finally settled at Toronto, as, under his circumstances, 
 the most eligible place he could lix on. He wanted to 
 find society for his elder children, education for the 
 younger, and a variety of occupation for his sons, while 
 he might not be without objects of interest himself. In 
 all theso i>oints he has been completely successful. With 
 rcigard to society, Toronto may vie with any of the 
 larger county towns in England. In tlie first place, it is 
 the chief seat of the law, the residence of the Judge and 
 Bar of Upper Canada : then there are the two univer- 
 
122 
 
 WE.'i Tl-:i? N V^- A \ 1 )EU 1 N(; S. 
 
 B 
 
 aities, that of Trinity Collooc and tlio Toionto Univer- 
 sity, ami several other hc-iiolastic estahlishnients. Till 
 lately, liri ash troops av ere stationed there; it is still the 
 head-(|uarters of the Canadian Jiifles. There are several 
 banks, with their managers and dii'ectors. A number of 
 old Canadian families, whose property is in the neigh- 
 bourhood, have their permanent abodes tliere ; and a great 
 variety of settlers of edueation, of all ijrofessions, now 
 turned I'armers, live witliin a stage-drive of the city, 
 while the railways oj)ened and opening in several direc- 
 tions, will bring a still larger circle within visiting 
 distiuice» 
 
 TJie scenery in the neighbourhood of Toronto is not 
 particularly interesting ; but as a few hours' absence will 
 enable one to visit Niagara and some of the finest views 
 in the country, such is of no great moment; and, with 
 that exception, 1 think no more desirable residence for a 
 ftunily is to be found in Canada. Indeed, very pic- 
 turesque views of wood, and lake, and distant shores, are 
 not altogether Avanting. E\erybody we met seemed 
 contented and happy that they had cast their lot in that 
 j)lace. Ordering our cab again, with doors to it, for the 
 rain had begun to fall heavily, we drove off to our 
 dinner-party. We had. in truth, the greatest difficulty 
 in persuading oursehes that we had crossed the Atlantic 
 —had come all the way up the St. Lawrence so far west- 
 ward. The streets we passed j>ut us in mind of the 
 suburbs of London. We reached an English-looking 
 lodge-gate, wln'ch w as opened by a tidy, pretty damsel 
 just as a church-clock in the neighbourhood gave forth 
 the hour of six ; we drove through an avenue of European- 
 looking trees, and descended at the |)ortico of a thoroughly 
 comfortable mansion. On enterhig, the illusion was still 
 
WESTERN WANOEinXGS. 
 
 123 
 
 ) Univer- 
 iits. Till 
 s still the 
 re several 
 umber of 
 'le nein;h- 
 1(1 a great 
 ous, now 
 the city, 
 ral direc- 
 : visiting 
 
 nto is not 
 scnce will 
 lest views 
 md, with 
 ?nce for a 
 very pic- 
 liores, are 
 seemed 
 ot in that 
 t, for the 
 f to our 
 difficulty 
 Atlantic 
 far west- 
 id of the 
 ti-looking 
 Y damsel 
 ive forth 
 
 lUropean- 
 
 oroughly 
 was still 
 
 more complcto, when we met familiar faces, arranircment 
 of furniture, kindly welcomes, sights and sounds sj)oak- 
 ing strongly of an English home and English comforts. 
 We were waitctl on by women-servants, the general 
 custom of the ccnmtry where men can find ample and 
 UKjre manly employments out-of-doors. Indeed, T jirefer 
 the attendance of woincMi, and feel that it is a duty one 
 owes to society to find as much oc( .ipation for them as 
 one can. A butler or a footman is generally a line 
 fellow spoilt; and a valet, nine times in ten, an honest 
 man turned into a rogue. This was our first dinner- 
 l)arty since leaving England, and a most ]>leasanf one we 
 found it. Several times we discovered ourselves forgetting 
 that we were so many thousand miles awav from home, 
 and could scarcely be persuaded of our real whereabouts. 
 Some of our letters of introduction liad not that 
 definite direction which would enable us to find the pre- 
 sons to whom thev were addressed. One esi)eciallv was to 
 '' W , Esq., of Lake Ont u'io. Now, as Lake On- 
 tario is some two hundred miles long, and nearly half as 
 
 many broad, our chance of finding Mr. W was small 
 
 indeed. The friend who gave me the letter doubtless 
 thought that in size it was equal to Loch Lomond, or 
 Windermere, or the Lakes of Killarney, or some such 
 little pools in Great Britain. For some time we had 
 incpilred in vain, when, fortunately, to-day mentioning 
 the circumstance, a lady at table said, " I have no doubt 
 
 he is Mr. W , near H , who succeeded his brother, 
 
 Colonel W ." On making further inquiries, 1 felt 
 
 sure that the Mr. W she described was my friend 
 
 of Lake Ontario. 
 
 We were now in a considerable dilemma as to what 
 course we sliould i)ursue. Tlie weather had broken up, 
 
124 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 and those wlio prot'ossrd to iinderstand its pi'ocoedinojs 
 assured us, that It would CDntiiuic unsettled for ten da}s 
 or a f'ortniirht, and that we should be wise to remain in 
 the neiohhourhood till the termination of that period. 
 We liad been, ho^vover, advis<'d to make a tour throuoh 
 Lake Simeoo alouo the head of Lake Huron to the Saute 
 St. Marie on Lake Su])erior, returniiio- (b^vn l^ake Miehi- 
 ^an to Cliieago, or by Lake Huron, visitintr Detroit and 
 Buffalo, ajid so on to Niagara. At the same time, we 
 had a strong desire to see th(> great and terril)le falls 
 without delay. 'J'iiree hours would earrv us there by 
 steam. We miglit choose a hue day, and go and return 
 so as to sleep at Toronto the same ni<ilit. But Nia^^ara 
 was not to be thus beheld ibr the first time in such a 
 mere sight-seeing mode. Wlion we should go, we would 
 remain till we had not only seen it, but comprehended it; 
 — gazed at it on every side — mastered whatever of cran- 
 deur or sublinn'ty it might contain— stamped it indelibly 
 on ova- juinds, so that to whatever part of the world we 
 nn'ght ^^;^nder, we might ever have its grand outlines 
 fresh and vivid to our recollection. JSTearly everybody 
 we met hud seen it : but, notwithstanding the praise they 
 lavished on its beauties, I must own that all this time 
 the nearer vv(} drew to the portals of this majestic temple 
 of the floods, the more we were afraid we should be 
 horribly disappointed. By going also first to Lake 
 Superior, we should see it to better advantacje })y beinir 
 able to follow its waters down from tlieir source till they 
 took the frantic leap over its rocky precipice. To Lake 
 Supt'rior we determined, therefore, if possible to give the 
 preference. We hoped, by going there, first to be able to 
 reach Hamilton hi time to be present at the Great In- 
 dustrial Exhibition of Canada, which was shortly to take 
 
WESTERN AVANDERINfiS. 
 
 125 
 
 pl.'U'o, nnd wliicli, wc were assured, would bo well worth 
 seeing. This, therefore, we were very anxious to do, 
 though we iniglit hav(! to deftu' beholding Niagara, so a-< 
 to make it our last aet before leaving the Up])er Pro- 
 vince. Not only should we see fat cattle and fat pigs, 
 fleet horses and long-legged fowls, wheat and (^orn of all 
 sorts, vegetal)les and fruit, oopiu-r and iron ore. and 
 steam-engines and otnnihuses, and ploughing and reaj)- 
 ing machines, and cloth and leather manufactures, bark 
 canoes and models of sailing vessels, but it was ])romised 
 us that we should bo introduced to all the rank and 
 fashion of the ])rovince to be there collected at a grand 
 ball to be held during the time of the Exhibition. We 
 were, therefore, very anxious to be j^resent. 1 believe it 
 in no way fed short of the most sanguine expectations of 
 its patriotic promoters, very clearly proving the extraor- 
 dinary progress made by Upper Canada during the last 
 few years. 
 
 The weather remained unsettled all the time ve were 
 at Toronto; and thiHigh the heat was considerable during 
 the middle of the day, the air in the mornings and even- 
 ings was pure and exhilarating in the extreme; and I 
 certoiidy had not for a long time felt my s])irits so light 
 and cheerful as they then became. From slee|)lng with 
 the Avindow of our cabin open while crossing Lake 
 
 Ontario A had caught so bad a cold that our plans, 
 
 of necessity, remained as unsetthid as the weather. A 
 magnificent day, liowever, induced us to accept the kind 
 invitation of a friend to drive with him alonji' the banks 
 of the Ilumber, an'l at two o'clock wo started in a 
 Canadian wagon. Now a Canadian wagon has four 
 wheels like an English one, but here the similarity ends ; 
 for there are two seats ; and it is, in fact, a very com- 
 
I2() 
 
 W KSTF UN \V A N DKUI NfiS. 
 
 tortiible plmoton, thou^rh, for a re.'isdii I cannot coinpiv- 
 hcMid, it8 front axle is not nuido to turn. Ooing west- 
 ward wo passt'd Ti'initv Collcur,. on our ri^ht, and the 
 Lunatic Asylnni on our left, the latter a \i«r\ handsome 
 lariTo stone l)uildin<r surniountcMl by a donio, on tiio top 
 of which is a larju'e lank, so that in case of tire tin." Avhole 
 edifice nuiy he flooded in an instant. In front there is u 
 large balcony entdosed by iron bars, throuoh which we 
 could see the uiilmppy imnates thrusting their arms and 
 legs in a vain onfleavour to escape. 
 
 The road was very good, broad, and even: here and 
 there a little phu.k, but chieHy roughly macadanu'zed, 
 with excellent bridges over streams and gullies; but the 
 ground on th(^ sides was not as nm<-h cultivated as 1 
 expected to find it. The ])rimeval forests had been foiled 
 long ago, a ftnv patriarc;lial trees alone riMuaining to speak 
 of f(jnner days ; but a new growth had sprung up in 
 many places, and had already attained a couiSderable 
 lieight. In other places tail trees were standing, but 
 branchless, l>urnt, and charred: in others black stumps 
 alone, two feet above the ground, remained, left thus to 
 rot by themselves till their roots can easily be removed. 
 J.og-huts were connnou, and snake-fences general. In- 
 <leed, they oidy disappear when cultivation has progressed 
 considerably. Tjiere were, however, abimdant s?gns of 
 advanced civilisation. As we drove oji the horse shied a 
 little, and no wonder if he had been raised in the back- 
 woods; foi, from u long cutting below us, rapidly there 
 hissed, puffing by, a locomotive, with panting ' breath 
 dragging after it a long line of railway-carriages bound 
 tor the shore of Lake Simcoe. Directly afterwar-ls we 
 l-assed two more railways, oug of whicli then nearlv 
 completed, and now long since open. Cominir on them 
 
WKSTERN WAN'bEIUNGS. 
 
 127 
 
 ainld ft wil.l piece of forest they had a very cdrious 
 t'ffbct. One was the Ilmnihoii iind. Mtijrara* liiu', tht 
 other the (hieH", ParLs, Bmntford. and Sandwich line, 
 oponini,' up a great extent of eonntry, and short.'nin^^ tlic 
 ••onnnnniejition with the Far West by two huntlred niile^ 
 or more, thns hrinoiprr thr()no:h Cu.lada a lar-!:e anionnt 
 of the traffic of the Western States. No railways liave 
 been more jmh'cionaly phnme<I,or more certain (if provini-' 
 advantageous to the country throitnli which tliey pa.s.«. 
 
 The railways wer(> not the only marks of'pro. -^'89. 
 On each side of the road was an ehietric-teh-grapii n> ;re, 
 supiH.rted on high rough j.oles. We were' told thev 
 wer(> rival h'nes, communicating at the Falls of Niagara 
 and SandwicJi with the States, and extending all the wav 
 round the north shore of Ontario, having branches in 
 every direction down the St. Lawrence to Montreal and 
 Quebec, up tlie Ottawa to Bytown. and across the former 
 river thiiaigh the Eastern townships; thus connecting 
 the whole of Canada, even to i-emote villages, in a net''- 
 work <.f ele(.-tric wires. Rivalry creates cheapness ; and 
 in this case, 1 believi;, a message of twenry words is 
 carried for about tour shillings from one end of the 
 Uj)I)er Province to the further end of the L(Aver. 
 
 The toll-gates in Upi)er Canada are very convtaiient, 
 especially in {>reserving the health of the kee[)ers in 
 winter. The house is of two stories, and in the toy. one 
 IS a small window, from which the custos can look out; 
 a broad shed extends across the road, and the gate slides 
 in grooves like a portcullis, the keeper having a winch 
 inside his house to raise and lower it. lie has also a 
 ladle, with a long stick, to receive his toll, and a small 
 hole to pass it through. Thus, instead of having at night 
 to descend into the cold, or even to open a wTndow, he 
 
128 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 looks through the glass when a traveller appears, pokes 
 out his ladle through the hole, and raising his gate, 
 lets him pass. In Lower Canada the common English 
 toll-gate is still used, to the constant killhig, I should 
 think, of the unhappy keepers, if they do not rather re- 
 frain from levying toll at night. I describe the plan as a 
 hmt to English phihuitln'o])ic boards of highway trusts. 
 The toll for the one we passed was twopence only for 
 our one-horse vehicle. 
 
 Our friend told us of the vast flight of pig(ions which, 
 like quails in the Syrian deserts, at certain seasons of the 
 year fly over Toronto, and when resting in the neigli- 
 bourliood completely cover the ground. As soon as they 
 appear the sportsmen, gun in hand, rush out and commit 
 di'cadful ImA^oc among them, to the great advantage of 
 their larders. 
 
 In our pi'ogress we saw what we had often heard of, 
 a house clumLnnii; its localitv. Tln're it came moviiiff 
 along the road, up a slope indeed, oig two-storied ])lank 
 tenement, with as much dignity and self-possession as if 
 it was still standing in its own cabbatre-iiarden. The 
 back-door was open, and there was the furniture, tables, 
 chairs, and beds, in their places. The cups and saucers 
 I don't think were on the table, the children and other 
 inmates were out, and the ])igs could not scramble in, as 
 it AAas somewhat lifted above its usual level on stout 
 rollers. The effect altogether was irresistibly comic. A 
 row of levers was applii'd to the rear, on each of which 
 sat a man as if on a see-saw, or spring-board, working 
 himself gently up and down, and by the movement he 
 thus made the house was inch bv Inch edired on. Other 
 men, with crowbars, stood at the side to Jog on the fr<mt 
 rollers, and to keep them in their places. The house 
 
MESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 129 
 
 pears, pokes 
 ig liis ji;ate, 
 lion English 
 ig, 1 should 
 t rather re- 
 he plan as a 
 liway trusts, 
 ice only for 
 
 [iious which, 
 ;asons of the 
 the neigh - 
 soon as they 
 and commit 
 dvantage of 
 
 en heard of, 
 me moviiie 
 toried ])lHnk 
 ;session as if 
 rden. TIk? 
 ture, tables, 
 and saucers 
 1 and other 
 amble in, as 
 el on stout 
 ■ comic. A 
 L*h of which 
 •d, working 
 ovement he 
 on. Other 
 on the frcmt 
 The house 
 
 stood as steadily as if it was well accustomed to take a 
 journey: even the brick chimney kept its j)lace w^ith 
 becoming decorum, nor did the wandows shake as much 
 as they are apt to do in a London mansion when an 
 omnibus rattles by. 
 
 We were remarking on the scarcity of birds we 
 observed, when we were told that this part of Canada, 
 and the districts still farther south, swarm with them 
 in summer; but that by far the larger number of species 
 had already migrated to regions where wild fruits, and 
 rice, and seeds of various sorts, are to be found in 
 greater abundance. 
 
 Having gone some way on the Hamilton road, we 
 returned, and struck off into a piece of wild forest land 
 towards the lake. At first we began to fear that our 
 ideas of an American forest were much exaggerated, for 
 though there were some rather gigantic stumps, tlie trees 
 were not taller or so wude-spreading as those W) most 
 parts of England. The fact is, that all the finci trees 
 have long since been "cidled," but enough i-omain to 
 make the spot very pretty and romantic; at least we 
 then thought it so, especially as the leaves were l)eglnning 
 to change colour, and the rals and oranges, j)inks and 
 yellows, which after a short time so delighted ns were 
 appearing in the foliage. We soon found ourselves on 
 the summit of some high grouixl above the Humber, 
 looking down on a very picturesque view, with its 
 rugged broken banks, and the river branding and fbam- 
 ing far below us. The stream turns a number of mills. 
 
 We had intended keeping along the banks to the 
 lake; but after proceeding by a narrow path for some 
 way, with deep ravines on either side, we stuck fast, and 
 came to the conclusion that we could get no farther ; in 
 
 VOL. T. jj 
 
130 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 fact, that we had lost our way. Now, as Canadian 
 carriages are not mad(} to turn on their axles, turn we 
 could not, without an almost certainty of going down the 
 steep bank into the Iluraber. Fortunately, wo found a 
 wider space a little fartlier on, and taking out the horse, 
 by " backing, and filling the can-iage," as a sailor would 
 say, we got it at last round, and drove back the way we 
 came. Our good star was in the ascendant, for we hit 
 on the {jath we were searching for, and drivhig merrily 
 through the dark green forest, we reached, })y a pictu- 
 resque descent, the shores of the splendid >)right Ijlue 
 expanse of Lake Ontario ; and as by the briglit ed<Te of 
 its shining waters we drove (piickly back towards Toronto, 
 we passed on our left hand a number of remarkably 
 pretty villas — some of them handsome mansions, facing 
 the lake. We liad to turn aside near the city to avoid 
 the deep cuttings for draining it, and the railway works 
 Avhich were going forward. 
 
 We had a pleasant dinner-] )arty at the house of the 
 l)rincipal of the University of Toronto. He is well 
 known as a man of iiigh talents, very nutsical and 
 poet; al, and full of wit and hinnour. My Avife had been 
 suffering so severely from a cold that, when we returned 
 to our hotel, our plans for tlie following week were still 
 unsettled. 
 
 1 awoke by daybreak : the morning was bright and 
 clieerful. The Simcoe steamer only proceeded to the 
 head of the lake once in the \veek. If we missed this 
 day we should have to wait seven days for anotluu" 
 opi)ortunity, and be unable to n'tin-n for the Hamilton 
 Exhibition ; so, suddenly, we determined to " chance it," 
 and proceed at once to the far, far-off, unknown regions 
 of :lie West. There was a delightful uncertainty as to 
 
as Canadian 
 des, turn we 
 irig clown the 
 , wo found a 
 at the horse, 
 sailor would 
 : the wav we 
 it, for we hit 
 vhig merrily 
 , by a pictu- 
 
 bright blue 
 right edge of 
 rds Toronto, 
 
 remarkably 
 sions, facing 
 ;ity to avoid 
 lilway works 
 
 house of the 
 He is well 
 murtical and 
 ife had been 
 w(' returned 
 ek were still 
 
 i briglit and 
 edt'd to the 
 missed this 
 for another 
 le Hamilton 
 " chance it," 
 own regions 
 rtainty as to 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 131 
 
 wliat we M-ere to see and how 
 
 only our rough-and-ready 
 of more civilised make to 
 
 were to proceed, which 
 gave much interest to the expt^dition. We again divided 
 our lugg;ige, taking with 
 garments, and sending th^ 
 meet us at the Falls. 
 
 In spite of all our packing, dilatory waiters not pre- 
 paring breakfast, sundry directions and notes to write, 
 we found ourselves seated in one of the cars of the Lake 
 Suncoe railway by eight o'clock. As in the States, we 
 stepped into the car from the public road, a few wooden 
 sheds serving for offices. The carriages, also, are called 
 cars, and are similar to those across the border, but 
 superior in neatness and cleanliness, and were far more 
 easy and less noisy. There was a shriek and a whistle, 
 and away we plunged out of Toronto into the back- 
 woods at the rate of .twenty miles or so an hour ! The 
 ground on either side was generally undulating, the road 
 taking us through the wild forest; but here "and tliere 
 were clearings, with c;ottages, or log-liuts, or shanties, on 
 them; and others could be seen picturesquely situated 
 among the trees. I r.bserved vast heaps of the charred 
 remains of trees which had been cut down and burned, 
 and suggested that they might adyantageously have been 
 carried to Torr)nto for sale; but, In reply, I was told 
 that tlie profit to be made on them would not pay the 
 expense of ti'ansport. 
 
 When a sottler wishes to clear his ground his creat 
 aim is to get rid of«the timber which cumbers it, Wliat 
 he cannot use for his snake-fences, or his log-house, 
 he drags with his oxen into great heaps, and Imnis as 
 rajjidly as he can. He thinks not of the future, when 
 he may want more timber, or of the price it might fetch 
 at the nearest town. Even if it would pay him he could 
 
132 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 not spare his oxen to ttvke it thither; so, notwithstanding 
 the high price of firewood in Lower Canada and the 
 States, tliousands and tliousands of acres of superb trees 
 are each year burnt off the face of the fair earth, their 
 ashes alone being of any use, as serving to aid in fer- 
 tilising it. Unaccustomed as we tlien were to the 
 cliarred stitmps, the blackened logs, and dtbris of fires, 
 to be seen in a noMdv-begun clearing, their desolate 
 appearance oii either side of the line at fi"st gave us 
 quite a melancholy fixding. Even now I am not perfectly 
 convinced that the logs might not have been carried bj 
 train to Toronto and sold to advantage, or 'piled up to 
 form a wall to remain till wanted. However, I have no 
 doubt that the engineers who made the road know more 
 about the matter than I do. 
 
 The railway brought us, at a quarter to eleven, to a 
 spot called Bradford-landing, at the head of a narrow, 
 sedgy creek, which rims up from Lake SiuK^oe. Here 
 we walked out of the car into the steamer Morning, 
 awaiting our arrival to start. A stage-coach, also, went 
 a\^-ay across a newly-erected bridge somewhere into the 
 ba(;k^\o(»ds; but these marks of advancing population 
 looked out of place in the wild, desolate region to which 
 we had come— a birch-bark canoe and a few Red Indians 
 m war-paint and fiuithers would have been more appro- 
 priate to the spot. On each side of the creek, and far 
 away as the eye could reach, were vast fields of sedges, 
 with a line of dark ]jine-forest a,j)pearing in the distance 
 above them. These, with the narrow, silvery, snake-like 
 l)iece of water, and th(^ blue sky overhead, were the only 
 features in the landscape. Our very civil captain had 
 done what he could to make his steamer suit the scenery ; 
 for he had ornamented her bows with a huge pair of 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 133 
 
 antlers, and had stuck a pine-branch over the wJioel- 
 house. In consequence of the increasing traffic brought 
 by the railway, a saloon was being erected on deck, a 
 work at which the carpenters were busy during our 
 voyage. For U])vvards of an hour did we j^addle slowly 
 through this sedgy expanse, the creek being fully seven 
 miles long. Sometimes we had to cut our way between 
 the sedges, and frequently through floating islands, and 
 now and then to stop the engines, or reverse them, to 
 avoid the logs, which had we struck mitht altofferher 
 have stopjjcd our progress. Here and there a single 
 stunted tree grew on some mound among the reeds, 
 increasing the desolate look of the scene; and to add to 
 it, a hawk, after circling high in the air, perched on one 
 of them, where he sat watching for fish or fowl which 
 might pass within his ken. 
 
 Nature sprinkles her brightest gems often in the most 
 dreary regions, and here she has covered the dull stream 
 with a profusion of water-lilies. As we floated by they 
 modestly drew their wide-spreading leaves beneath the 
 surfiice, as might bashful water-nymphs endeavour to 
 conceal their beauties as some monster of the land comes 
 prowling along. Divers and a qua-itity of wild fowl 
 were flying about, atfbrdijig abundancie of game for the 
 sportsman. We saw also a number of fish leaping. The 
 lake abounds with a vast variety of species, and for one 
 especially, the Maskanonge, a kind of jiike or sturgeon of 
 great size, it is celebrated. On emerging from the creek, 
 we entered a sheet of water called St. Paul's Bay, and 
 tlion passed between two points to the wider expanse of 
 Lake Simcoe itself. The open blue water, and the farms, 
 and cottages, and gardens, and orchards, which line the 
 east shore of the lake, were most pleasing and refreshing 
 
 - i\ 
 
 b 
 
'Tr 
 
 134 
 
 WESTERN WAxNDERINGS. 
 
 to the eye and i'eclings after the dreary scone we Jiad 
 passed. The heat of the sun in the creek, also, had 
 been most oppressive, but now the breeze which met us 
 was cool and cheerincr. 
 
 The slioro of Lake Simcoe is considered the most 
 health) part of Canada, and its waters the purest, in 
 consequence of Its much higher level than all the neigh- 
 bourinj.- lakes. It is 472 feet hicrher than Ontario, and 
 120 higher than Lake Huron, while Lake Sui)erior is 
 onlv 20 feet higJier than tlie latter; thus makino- Sinicot^ 
 100 feet higher than Superior, which is also, on account 
 of Its height, .:'onsiderod very healthy. 
 
 We passed close to Rochas Point, on wlilch is 
 situated n pretty village surrounded by rich orchards, 
 called Keswick. A gentleman now addressed us. He 
 was a man with a large, clear, bright eye and most 
 intelligent countenance. 
 
 " In that pretty cottage," said he, " Mrs. Jamieson, in 
 her Tour through Canada, tells us that she stopped, and 
 that most unex])ectedly she Ibund in it a copy of 
 Shakspeare and a Spanish gnltar, and that it made her 
 thmk higldy of the innuites. Tiie owner was my brother, 
 and she was riglit in her judgment." 
 
 1 soon found that the speaker was Mr. Smith, Sheriff 
 of Simcoe county, consequently the chief authority in 
 that district. 
 
 A little way forthor on we came near some islands 
 reserved for the (;xcluslve use of the Induins. They are 
 under the care of a missionary and a schoolmaster, and 
 occasionally a medical man visits them, paid of course by 
 Govenmiont. I shall describe by and bv more fully the 
 s^'stem of Indian reserves. The largest ol' the isles is 
 Snake Island, covered with graceful feathoj-y trees, 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 135 
 
 already tinted with the gorgeous liues of autumn, and 
 full of i-ornantic little bays. Hero the small portion of 
 the tribe of Chippewas, a remnant of the Red men who 
 once thickly inhabited these regions, pass an easy and 
 contented, though somewhat lazy life, fishing and catchino- 
 small game when so disjiosed, and making mats, birch- 
 bark canoes, and baskets, and trusthig to the white man 
 for aid when pressed by famine. 
 
 *' Often as I behold that spot I feel that the poet's 
 dreamy imaginings of ideal beauty are there indeed 
 realised," observed the Sheriff. 
 
 Truly, as I looked, I thought the Sheriff was right. 
 The island was considerably elevated above the water, 
 and partly surrounded by crumbling cliffs. Here and 
 there were cleared s|)aces, on which stood the huts and 
 wigwams of the inhabitants ; and from one of the wood- 
 surroiuided little bays a canoe shot out into the lake, 
 while near at hand another lay floating idly on its placid 
 surface. Here, too, for the first time we saw some 
 tolerably rough specimens of the children of the wilder- 
 ness on their native lands. They w.-re dressed in gar- 
 ments of red, blue, and black, their long ebon hair 
 hanging over their shoulders. They appeared to be 
 young girls and little boys, and seemed to be busily 
 engaged in playing hide-and-seek' among the stumps and 
 roots of tlie trees which lined tlu; shore. 
 
 I'o the west of Snake Island is Bird Island — heart- 
 shaped and covered with graceful trees, among which 
 grows in profusion the wild vine. On another small 
 island there are quantities of strawberries. The Sheriff 
 told me that, one day landing to pick some, ho was so 
 furiously assailed by hosts of mosquitoes, who flew forth 
 like guardian genii to defend them, that he was fain to 
 
 m 
 
l.'ifi 
 
 WESTERN WAXDERINGS. 
 
 I 
 
 beat ii hasty retreat without liis intended dessert. Though 
 the east shore is so thickly populated, on the west scarcely 
 a house is to be seen. This is owing to all the best 
 watt-r-frontages belonging to absentee proi)rietors, chiefly 
 officers in the army and navy, and other gentlemen 
 settlers, who failing, as is too commonly the case, as 
 agriculturists, have abandoned the country in diso-ust. 
 
 Farther back, on the second line, there are a number 
 of hard-working, thriving settlers, who are obliged to be 
 content with inferior locations while the best are lying 
 idle. The only successful way of remedying the evil 
 according to law, has been found to levy a tax on all 
 lands ; and after a certain time, if the tax is not paid, to 
 sell the land for the amount due. In this way absentees, 
 who have often not a notion where their land lies, are 
 justly deprived of what is not only of no use to them, 
 but by keeping which in a state of nature they are 
 retarding the progress of the industrious settler. 
 
 Tile railway is to come down to the west shore, 
 rowards its southern end, and then to continue on to 
 Barrie and the shore of Lake Huron, to a spot called the 
 Hen ajid Chickens in the Georgian Bay, where the new 
 settlement of Collingwood is situated. 
 
 The little steamer Morning runs only once in the 
 week to Orillia, passing the rest of her time between 
 Barrio and Bradford. Barrie, the chief town of Simcoe 
 County, is about six miles uj) a gulf, or creek, on the 
 west shore (;f Lake Simcoe. I'he lake at this part is 
 abi)ut fifty miles broad— the shores, as we passed up the 
 centre, formiiig a low and distant blue line. 
 
 To the north of Lake Simcoe, and opening into 
 it, is Couchachiiie Lake ; into wlifch we entered, p^assing 
 through a turning wooden bridge. Some fine marble 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 137 
 
 :t. Though 
 est scarcely 
 ill the best 
 tors, chiefly 
 
 gentlemen 
 he case, as 
 disgust. 
 .' a number 
 •liged to bo 
 t are lying 
 ig the evil 
 
 tax on all 
 lot paid, to 
 
 absentees, 
 id lies, are 
 s to them, 
 I they are 
 
 '•est shore, 
 inie on to 
 called the 
 '0 the new 
 
 ?e in the 
 3 between 
 of Simcoe 
 ?k, on the 
 lis part is 
 ied up the- 
 
 ning into 
 d, passing 
 le marble 
 
 I 
 
 (piarries exist on the shores of this lake, and five vessels 
 are already employed in carrying it to Bradford, whence 
 it is transi)orted by train to Toronto. On the west 
 shore of Lake Couchachine is the sweetly smiling village 
 of Orillia, to which v/e were bound. It retains its 
 euphonious Indian name. Mr. Cameron, the manager 
 of one of the Toronto banks, was on board on his way 
 to see a villa he had purchased close to the water, 
 intending it for a summer residence. Tie pointed it out 
 to us, and a very prettily situated place it seemed. The 
 water of the lake is said to be very healthy f^r bathing ; 
 and I have no doubt, before many years are (jver, that 
 from this circumstance, the beauty of the scenery, and the 
 invigorating purity of the atmosphere, the shores of the 
 lake will be lined with connnodious villas and cottages, 
 which the inhalntants of Toronto and Hamilton may 
 retire to avoid the heats of summer. Opposite Orillia 
 is the island of Kama, an Indian reserve ; and we observed 
 several canoes putting off from it as the lied Man saw 
 tlie steamer approacli, most of them steered by women. 
 They look far more pic^turesque at a distance than near 
 at hand. The waters of this bright lake are so clear, 
 tliat fish can bo seen swimming almost down to their very 
 depths. We should nuich like to have caught sight of a 
 patriarchal maskanonge — one of which has been taken 
 weighing, we ^vcre told, one hundred and six pounds : 1 
 don't know wliether 1)y line or net. The sloping banks, 
 distant heights, iuid numerous islands, all richly wooded, 
 as indeed is every shore and hill in sight, make this truly 
 a very beautiful lake; its attractions being much in- 
 creased by its crystal waters, bright skies, and bracing 
 atmosphere. 
 
 Lake Couchachine is called the Killarney of Canada. 
 
 If 
 
138 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 I cannot say that I saw any resemblance, except that, as 
 the geography-books say, both are "expanses of water 
 surrounded by land." However, in their own j)eculiar 
 way both are very beautiful, but I doubt if Killarney 
 would take it as a coinpliniont to be comijared to Coueh- 
 achine ; and j)robably Couchacliine would j)ique himself 
 031 being a much largejr and finer fellow than that little 
 Irish chaj) Killarney. 
 
■,1 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 At 4 1>.M. we landed very deliLerately at the pleasant 
 smiling little viUnov of OHIHa, which stands scattered 
 ahout on the sides of a tolerably high, slojang hill, facing 
 the lake, and backed by a forest of tall, aristocratic- 
 looking pine-trees. While oiu- Inggage was eomlno- on 
 shore, and preparations were slowly' l)eing made for 
 starting across the country to Lake Huron, we sat our- 
 selves down in front of a little inn looking towards the 
 lake. The steamer Morning having landed one set of 
 passengers turned herself roiuid, and taking another set 
 on board, steamed away by the track we had come, 
 leaving us on the outskirts of civilisation. I noted thi 
 scene before us as we sat patiently waiting for the coae:. 
 to move, by which, in our innocence, we fancied we were 
 to travel. There it stood near the inn, with four wheels 
 and a flaming red body of bulky proportions and a coach- 
 box, its style cdeaidy proclaiming it to }>elong to a bygone 
 ag(,'. ^ It was just such a vehicle as the renowned Dick 
 Turpin was wont to stop with his terrific « Stand and 
 deliver!" but though gentlemen of the road are unknown 
 in Canada, we had some uncomfortable mism v^in^rs that 
 
140 
 
 WESTERN WAXDEUINOS. 
 
 unless the roads wore very good, we niit/ht i)()ssil)lv lu? 
 brou^rht to ii liiilt 1))' a hrt'ak-down or an overturn. 
 Indii^i, liow // in an) way was to carry all the pa.sben<^ers 
 and their lu«,'ga<ie across to tlie waters of Liike Huron 
 puzzled us exeecidiu'dv. 
 
 The calm heauty of the view pnjvented us from being 
 much troubled by the possibility of disaster. Below us 
 were the bri<rlit waters of the lake, and its blue shores in 
 the disf.anoe ; a little way off, tlie Island of Kama, with 
 here and tliere an [ndian cottafie or witrwani peeping 
 from ainono- tlic trees, and several open spaciis wliere 
 maize and corn, pumi)kins, and other plants, were culti- 
 vated. Other islands lay scattered abtait, and many 
 green ])oiuts ran (nit into the lake on both sides of us; 
 whiie liigher up, to the right and left, api>eared the plank 
 and plastered cottages of Orillia. Every now and then 
 a birch-l)ark (;anoe would come uito view from behind 
 some island or green point, and landing near the vdhige, 
 its red crew would stroll up thnjugh the road, to hear 
 the news, or to barter wild duck or other birds, and fish, 
 with the white strangers. A crowd of i)eo[)le had col- 
 lected on the rough, long wooden pier aiding the departure 
 of the Morning; and us she glided away, her smoke 
 formed a graceful wreath over the picture, tlic whole 
 light(?d up brilliantly by the sun, which, with undimmed 
 splendour, was sinkuig towards the tops of the fringe of 
 dark })ine-trees in our rear. 
 
 All this time the big coach did not move, and we 
 began to think that we were to remain at Orillia all the 
 night, when up drove several vehicles with four liorses, 
 into which the luggage and most of the i)assengers were, 
 after much packing and fitting, stowed away. We had 
 to wait a little longer for one of more aristocratic pre- 
 
WESTERN WANDEia.VOS. 
 
 141 
 
 possibly 1)0 
 
 I overturn. 
 
 passe 'ii;L!;ors 
 
 iikf Huron 
 
 from IxMno; 
 liclow us 
 10 shores in 
 itaiuii, with 
 tm peojiing 
 ices wliore 
 were culti- 
 and nitiny 
 ides of us; 
 1 the plauk 
 V and then 
 om behind 
 the village, 
 id, to hear 
 3, and tish, 
 had col- 
 ! departure 
 ber smoke 
 tlie whole 
 undiinnied 
 le fringe of 
 
 e, and we 
 Ilia all the 
 )ur horses, 
 gors were, 
 ^ We had 
 ;ratic pre- 
 
 tensions, fit to carry the Sheriff; a civil engineer, his 
 friend, ourselves, and a fat, fussy, tuke-very-goi(d-eare-of- 
 niyself old gentleman, who, with earpot-bag iji lu.nd, 
 mounted the box next the dri\-er. 1 call it aristocratic 
 relativ(>ly to its com|.anions. It was an extraordinarily 
 long open car, like a tray or shallow box, witli fi\-o 
 benches across it, each of them intended to lioKl three 
 humsui beings by packing very tightly. Jlai/pily wo 
 were but ton. First, our driver, a good-natured, jolly 
 fellow, in a straw hat, white shirt, witJi red under-sleeves 
 showing, and unbuttoned Avaistcoat; our fussy friend, 
 who for want of another name we shall call liriggs; then 
 
 Mr. Snu"th and Mr. F sat opposite us; and behind 
 
 were two men, one rather elevated, and two women with 
 a baby. How the infant survived that limb-dislocating 
 journey seemed afterw:mls a miracle. 1 doubt if the 
 machine had springs; if it had they were of a very 
 unbending nature. Instead of cushions, a buffalo robe 
 was thrown in, on which we sat and wrapped up our 
 legs. Our Jehu, now gathering u]) his rt;ins, turm;d his 
 fom- horses, with rotten-luoking harness and gaping 
 blinkers, off the highroad into another gi'assy one, where 
 out of a c<jttage came her Majesty's mails; and after 
 stopping at Tipping's store, where stood a dirty Indian 
 in a blmiket-coat sn)oking, a chief rejoicing in the ro- 
 mantic name of Leatherlegs, and passing a number of 
 plank cottages, some of rather tasty architectuj-e, and a 
 neat little wooden church with a tin spire, we at length 
 fairly left Orillia behind, and entered on the wild forest 
 road, with the tall trees on either side of us, and tlu> red 
 sun setting in a flame of fire directly ahead. Humble as 
 was our conveyance, we soon had cause to rejoice that 
 we were not enclosed within the dusty, fusty, all-be- 
 
 4: h 
 
142 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 painted, old, asthmatic, lord-mayor's-show-looicing stage 
 we saw befort! the inn. 
 
 In a few minutes we began a series of bumpings, 
 thumpings, joltings, and other dislocating movements, 
 wliich ended not till the termination of our journey. Our 
 companions, however, with most agreeable conversation, 
 so beguiled the way that we cared but little for the 
 roughness of the road. The sun very soon set amid a 
 wide-spreading radiance of gale-betokening ruddy hue, ui 
 the centre of a wild forest vista; and this made us 
 inquire, somewhat anxiously, how we were to tra\'crse 
 such a road by night, or, if such was impossible, where 
 we were to stop? We were then told, that at the 
 distance pf about a third of the way from Orillia was to 
 be found Mrs. Barr's clearing and log-hut, whore we 
 might remain if we pleased till monung; dawned, and rest 
 our limbs after the fatigue they were then undergoing. 
 As there was something interestino- in the idea of be- 
 coming inmates of a log-hut, and that one on the extreme 
 verge of the inhabited portion of the globe, wh^ did in no 
 wise object to the plan, so bumped on contentedly; 
 although, as e\ery now and then canu- a more than 
 usually fracturing jolt, our vehicle appearing about to 
 separate to the four quarters of the world, we did fetl 
 somi'what anxious to arriv e at our bourn. 
 
 We pas'^ed a number of clearings — little nooks 
 chopped out of the forest, with log-huts standing in the 
 centre of the space. The black stumps, some two feet 
 high, still remaining in the ground, there to coutimie till, 
 in six or seven years, they rot away, or till the settler 
 has tin)e and strength to root them out. This was the 
 wildest forest we had entered, but for some time we were 
 disappointed with the size of the trees, for they did not 
 
ooking stage 
 
 if l»umpings, 
 
 movements, 
 
 juriiey. Our 
 
 oonvorsation, 
 
 little for the 
 
 1 Bet amid a 
 
 'uddy hue, iii 
 
 bis made us 
 
 ? to tra^crse 
 
 ssible, where 
 
 that at the 
 
 )rillia was to 
 
 t, where we 
 
 nod, and rest 
 
 undergoing. 
 
 idea of be- 
 
 the extreme 
 
 we did in no 
 
 contentedly ; 
 
 more than 
 
 iig about to 
 
 we did feel 
 
 dittle nooks 
 nding in the 
 nie two feet 
 c'onthnie till, 
 1 tlie settler 
 riiis was the 
 Ime we were 
 they did not 
 
 %VESTERN WANDERINGS. I43 
 
 aiipear larger than many in Europe, and the Sheriff 
 assured us they were not imdcr the avera^^e lieight. 
 VVlien, h,.^ve^er, we stood directly under them, looked 
 up to then- topmost boughs, ami attempto<l to si>an their 
 gu-th, we found that our eyes had deceived us, and that 
 they would indeed be considered giants in the Old World 
 The log-huts and cl<.mngs became more solitary, the 
 tal trees grew taller ,.nd arched closer over our heads, 
 and by degrees the gloom gave way to total darkne : 
 and yet we plunged on, along ^e broken conluroy and 
 rotten planks, into slushy mi and pools, over "rocks 
 ruts an.l holes, while we had to hold on, lik.. grim Drath' 
 to the sides of the waggon, not knowing vviiere the next 
 uioment we might find ourselves lodged. Had it been 
 ight, we should have seen through the trees the pretty 
 Bass Lake, so culled from the fish with whici, it abounds. 
 An average good corduroy road affords a certain 
 amount of regular bumping, against which precautions 
 can bo taken. It is composed of rough logs, as long a. 
 the WKlth of t ,e road, laid close together and paralld to 
 each other. It is formed where the 3wan)pv nature of 
 the ground allows of no other foundation. " When the 
 trunks of the trees are not of large girth, an.l the inter- 
 stices are filled up with twigs and rubbish, it is tolerably 
 smooth, m this road set all calculation at defianci 
 i"i<l our steeds showed wonderful sagacity in pieking 
 fheir M^ay. How they manage<l not to fall J cannot 
 
 We hpd great cause for thankfulness in the doath 
 or svanber of th. venomous tn\.e. of „,osqnito(>s for 
 winch tlm road is notorious, so that people are frequentlv 
 comi,elled to carry little torches to drive them away from 
 tlieu* faces. 
 
144 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 ■ 
 
 We came upon three inagnificent fires, Avliicli, seen 
 among tlie crees under the dark vault of heaven, looked 
 wild and picturesque in the extreme. They were burn- 
 ing log-lieaps, each log the trunk of a mighty tree. The 
 hardy backwoodsmen stood by, their figures glowing 
 with tlie ruddy light while they fed the fires, and 
 watched that the flames did not spread to their huts 
 or the neighbouring trees. As the trees are felled, they 
 are dragged tt)gether by oxen, and piled in heaps thus to 
 burn — the operation being called " logging." 
 
 I have remarked that the birds of Canada, though 
 tJiey make odd noises, have no notes like our own dear 
 English songsters of the grove ; but both our companions 
 fisserted, that of late years it has been generally ob- 
 served that, in the neighbourhood of the habitations of 
 men, they have been heard to sing as they never sang 
 before. 
 
 At about eight o'clock we came bumping up to iMrs. 
 Barr's clearing and inn. It was a regular log-hut, or 
 rather house composed of huge trunks of trees, grooves 
 being chopped in their ends so as to allow of one fitting 
 into the other. It had several rooms. The entrance 
 had a noble, wide cdiimney and fireplace, worthy of the 
 media3val age, full of blazing logs, in front of which sat a 
 nmnbcr of rough backwoodsmen, regular ])ioneers of 
 civilisation, smoking short black pipes. Upstairs were 
 six little rooms lined with plank, and in each was a clean 
 Ixi'd, a table, and chair, so neat and comfortable that we 
 were well content at the thoughts of restinjj there. In 
 a good-sized inner room, neatly fined and roofed with the 
 ruddy pine-boards, on a long table, with a clean white 
 cloth, was laid out a capital supper and tea — consisting 
 of wild-pigeon pies, cold lamb, excellent hot potatoes, 
 
;s, wliicli, set'H 
 heaven, looked 
 ley were biirn- 
 lity tree. The 
 gures glowing 
 the fires, and 
 to their huts 
 are felled, they 
 1 heaps thus to 
 
 , 9? 
 
 ^« 
 
 Canada, though 
 ? our own dear 
 )ur companions 
 generally ob- 
 habitations of 
 liey never sang 
 
 ting up to iMrs. 
 lar log-hut, or 
 ■ trees, grooves 
 ' of one fitting 
 
 The entrance 
 
 worthy of the 
 ; of which sat a 
 ar })ioneers of 
 
 Upstairs were 
 Lch was a clean 
 )r table that we 
 ting there. In 
 I'oofed with the 
 
 a clean white 
 ;ea — consisting 
 t hot potatoes, 
 
 WESTERN WAxVDERINGS. 145 
 
 such as grew before the disease was known, apple-tarts, 
 good bread and cake; and at one end stood our jovial 
 Scotch hostess ready to serve her guests. Her cheerincr 
 fare enabled us to bear the announcement that as soon Z 
 the moon arose the stages would proceed onward, and 
 that the Kaloolah would start by daybreak in the morn- 
 ing. While awaituig the luminary's appearance, we 
 discoursed with good JMrs. Barr on the relative merits 
 of Crtashe and Can/m^-she infinitely preferrincr the 
 latter. She came from Glasgow twenty-one years" ago, 
 aud settled m the forest near this spot. She has now a 
 hundred acres of land, fifty of wliich are under culti- 
 vation. Two years ago she went to Sc^otland, but 
 "didna just like it:" old friends were dead, their 
 children cbd not care about her; when she rose in 
 the morning felt cold and damp-could not breathe, and 
 got the asthma. The doctor told her tliat she would 
 recover when she returned to the air she was accustomed 
 to m Canada : that .he had done so her cheerful, rin.nmr 
 voice assured us. '^ *^ 
 
 ^ At half-pa:it nine we again started, lighted by a 
 bright moonshine, which fell in sidelong jileams, throu<rh 
 tJie openings between the taU pines, across the rugo^d 
 road, over whu>h our primitively constructed vehicle vmit 
 joltmg, and bumping, and creddng along, though almost 
 at a snail s pace, yet with no less violence- than before. 
 Ihere we all sat, our legs firmly wedged in among 
 sundry boxes and carpet-bags, securely jammed down with 
 a big, dusty buffalo-robe; we often giving way to un- 
 cx^ntrollable fits of laughter, in spite of our misery, as our 
 unhic.<y persons bounded and rebounded on the benclie. • 
 our vehicle sometimes leaning over at an angle of 46^ as 
 the wheels of one side sunk into a deeper rut tlian usual, 
 
 TOL. I. 
 
146 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 where the planking had rotted away, or into some ditch 
 or natural watercourse. ]\Iy surprise is, that we escaped 
 rolling over and over into the jiouds and valleys below 
 us. Briggs sat on the box, holduig on with both hands 
 and pressing his feet on the splash-board, while he ad- 
 jured the driver to be careful not to upset him and his 
 carpet-bag; but we suspected that he totally forgot that 
 he had any com])anions to share his destiny. 
 
 Sometimes we passed a wide track, where tall, 
 branchless poles and Ijlack stumps showed where fire 
 jiad been connnitting its devastating work. Besides 
 pines there were many other trees, among AvLich, by 
 their spire-like tops, we could distinguish tlie Canadian 
 balsam, a species of spruce. We knew, too, when we 
 were passing a cypress swamp by the greater gloom, and 
 by the roughness of the corduroy, or the depth and 
 watery consistence of the mud. 
 
 Tliis r<jad was long ago formed by Government, as 
 a military comnmnication between Toronto and Lake 
 Huron, and now being of no further use for that object, 
 has been allowed to fall into decay. Originally a width 
 of sixty or seventy feet was cleared of trees, but the 
 stout underwood has grown up, and so narrowed the 
 road, that often we were neai'l}' hooked out of tlie 
 carriage l)v the branches. The forest abovu^ds in wild 
 plums, grapes, ras J )berries, strawberries, blackberries, and 
 many other fruits less tasteful to man ; but the only 
 living thing we saw on the road was that most odious of 
 animals, a skunk. If one happen only to pass in and 
 out of a cottage, his visit can be perceived for a week 
 afterwards ; and if one is killed, it is scarcely possible to 
 get rid of the odour. We b'Hinded and jolted on between 
 tall trees and high banlis till midnight, vdien we reached 
 
WESTEliN WANDERINGS. 
 
 147 
 
 large clearing; i„ whldi stood a gamit, drearv-lor^king 
 /iuuk-house, where we stopped. 
 
 To our no small satisfaction we heard that this was 
 ColdwatcT, .uid believed tliat iiere our journey was to 
 terminate.. What was our dismay, however, on learnincr 
 that we had still five miles farther to proceed, over a 
 road far worse than we had yet passed ! Leaving us to 
 descend at our leisure, our driver disappeared into the 
 darkness w,th her Majesty's mail-bag on his shoulders. 
 We were too glad of tlie opportunity of stretching otu- 
 egs, and of asc^aining whether any of our limbs had 
 actually been jerked out of place. 
 
 Wo found, on entering the house, a large hall, which 
 served as bar-room, kitchen, sitting-room, and sleeping- 
 roorn for the fanuly, wliere a half-awake won.an in a 
 mghtcap was serving out drams to a number of rough- 
 lookmg men. Hearing an odd, sniffling noise procecdbg 
 from a huge diest with the lid open, we looked in, and 
 amid a heap of clothes discovered, by a light which the 
 Sheritt brought to exhibit it, a n.ost imwashed infant. 
 
 _ 1 hat s a buuk," said he. - It serves thus as a bed 
 at mght, and n, the day-time as a seat-a useful, thoucrh 
 not ornamental, piece of furniture." '' 
 
 This large melancholy -looking frame-house was 
 erected by Governmenr as a school-house for Indians 
 a missionary and protector of natives being established 
 iiere; but the Indians have long since died off in the 
 neighbourhood, or have been removed to some more 
 distant location, and the people who have rented it are 
 little able to keep it in repair. 
 
 The first part of <mr journey was calculated to 
 eave a tolerably permanent impression on our minds, 
 but the last five miles it is impossible to forget, for never 
 
148 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 were mortals exposed to more tremendous shaking ; and I 
 doubt whether four wheels ever attempted to pass over a 
 worse road without sticking fast. It appeared exactly 
 as if we were jolting headlong down the rough bed of a 
 mountain torrent. We had to be grateful to our coatless 
 driver, and our good fortune, in escaping all the jierils to 
 which we were exposed. No lady could have borne it 
 better than did my wife ; and certainly we laughed far 
 more than we groaned as each successive jerk or heel 
 ovei* sent us almost iiying out of the caiTiage. Our 
 companions expressed themselves delighted that an Eng- 
 lish lady should bear with such perfect good humour 
 the rough experiences of life in the backw-oods. At last, 
 just as the dawn was breaking, we came to the top of a 
 hill, imd beheld, to our satisfaction, the glitter of the lake 
 below us. Down we rattled faster than we had gone the 
 whole niglit to the very border of the lake, where, at a 
 wooden pier, we found a huge, white, unsubstantial- 
 looking construction, which proved to be the steamer 
 Kaloolah. 
 
 I 
 
INDIAN SF.TTLFMENT. MAiHTOirLI.V ISLAM. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Mad Me been told that the vessel on board of which we 
 were about to embark was built of pasteboard, we might 
 ahiiost have believed it. She api)eared as if she was 
 kept together alone by the huge arch which ran from 
 her stem to her stern, but which in reality adds ixreat 
 strength to vessels of her construction. On goinff on 
 board, we found that the captain had (piitted her, as^had 
 some of the mates and engineers. I believe the stew- 
 ardess, also, had been disnn'ssed; so that, considering 
 
1.50 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 there was a heavy gale blowing, we had but little 
 promise of safety or comfort. Had it r;ot been for tlie 
 nigged way we nmst retreat, I tlunk we should have 
 turned back. However, as the owner and his son were 
 on board, and by the map it a[)peared that our course 
 would not lead us through any broad part of the lake, 
 we resolved to bide by the ship. 
 
 A very steady, tall, gaunt, old West Highlander, with 
 a round blue bonnet on his head, acted as master, aided 
 by a most respectable young man, the owner's son ; and 
 then we had a steward, Luis, an Italian, who was a host 
 in himself,— a more active, intelligent, willing fellow 1 
 never met. How^ he, the native of a southern cJime, 
 managed to get into this out-of-the-way northern region 
 I could not learn. Without him I verily think the 
 ship would not have kept afloat. He acted the i)art of 
 stewnrd and stewardess, chief cook and barber, wniter 
 and carpenter, &c. ; every now and then lie ^^ as to be 
 seen hurrying about with hammer in hand, mending 
 windows and nailing up doors which the gale had broken 
 open. We were accommodated with the only enclosed 
 cabin in the ship, the rest of the sleeping-places being 
 mere ordinary berths at the side of tlie sale .1 and the 
 ladies' cabin ; and most thankful I was that my ^v•ife had 
 a place in which to rest after her unwonted fatigues. 
 As the light increased, I foimd that we were at the liead 
 of a gulf, the thick forest '^rjmpletely covering its shores, 
 with the exception of a nook in which stood a solitary 
 little inn for the accommodation of voyageurs, Indians, 
 and other clianc(j passers-by, for the steamer only visits 
 the place once in the week. 
 
 Far as we appeared to have come, and on the ex- 
 treme vei'ge of civilisation as we were, it must be re- 
 
WESTERN AVANDERINOS. 
 
 151 
 
 Lcl but little 
 hoen for tlie 
 should have 
 his son were 
 t our course 
 of the lake, 
 
 ilanrler, witli 
 iiastor, aided 
 f's sou ; and 
 
 was a host 
 in^ fellow I 
 thorn clime, 
 thern rem on 
 y think the 
 
 the part of 
 fbcr, w niter 
 3 M as to be 
 id, mending 
 
 had broken 
 ily enclosed 
 ilaces being 
 H>ii and the 
 ny 'svife had 
 ed fatigues. 
 at the head 
 J its shores, 
 
 1 a s<jlitary 
 rs, Indians, 
 ' only visits 
 
 on the ex- 
 
 nust be re- 
 
 membered, that after all we had not travelled a m-eater 
 distance than can, with a little exertion, be performed in 
 one day when the road between Lake Simcoe and L«ke 
 Huron is properly repaired. I must l)eg my readers to 
 look at the m ap to see our whereabouts. We were now 
 entering the Georgian Bay, as the eastern portion of 
 Lake Huron is called. Tlence, in a nortiiM\ esterly 
 direction, runs a series of ish nds called the Manitoulin 
 Islands. Tliey reach almost to the mouth of the St. Marie 
 river, whicli flows from Lake Superior into Lake Huron. 
 Along the north shore of the chain of islands lay our 
 course. The north coast of Lake Huron, as lar as the 
 Bruce Mines near the St. Marie river, is entirely un- 
 settled,— not a white man is to be found there, and but 
 thin and scattered ftmiilies of natives, chiefly Chip- 
 l)ewas. 
 
 The Manitoulin Lslands are Lidian reserves, some 
 thousands of Red men are located on them under the 
 superintendence of Captain Ironsides. As th(.^ Indian 
 tribes are considered independent, he is nominally a sort 
 of envoy or resident minister to them ; but in reality he 
 is their governor and protector. A large number of the 
 Lulians are Roman Catholics, and have several Romish 
 priests residing among them, 'J'he Pi-otestants, who are 
 decidedly in the minority, have a Church-of-England 
 clergyman ministering to them, who resides, as does 
 Captain L'onsides, at the village of Manatouwanning in 
 Great Manitoulin Island. Few of those inhabiting the 
 north shore of the lake are, I believe, Christians, but 
 they are generally peaceable and well disposed, though 
 sadly inferior to the Red warriors Cooper so beautifully 
 describes. 
 
152 
 
 WESTEUN WANDERINGS. 
 
 On tho south and west coasts of tho Georgian Bay 
 
 tlicro are sevoral EngIislisottleinonts,\vliicli we were now 
 
 aljout to visit, n?. also a few Indian reserves. We o-ot 
 
 under »vay at about live a.m., and in two hours reached 
 
 Peiietanguishine. The liarljour is a deep gulf; like a 
 
 Iligjdaiid loch, completely sheltered from all winds. 
 
 On the left side is a \illage, and on both shores a nnndjer 
 
 of farm-houses and clciuiiigs scattered about amid the 
 
 forest. The village is chiefly inhabited by Canadian 
 
 voyageurs and half-breeds. A little way from it, down 
 
 th(> harbour, there are Govermnent stores and barracks, 
 
 and the ruins of a fort. Troops wore quartered here in 
 
 the American war to guard this part of the province 
 
 against any e.xix'dition the enemy might send by water. 
 
 We here took in wood and a tipsy old Indian, who 
 
 vociferated contiiuiallv most vehemently. 
 
 As we were steaming away, we were hailed by two 
 Inditms who came paddling after us in a canoe. ' We 
 stoi)pcd, hauled them up with a bag of com and some 
 fisliing-tuckle, and then hoisteil in tlieir birch-bark canoe. 
 They were on their Avay to lish among the IManitoulin 
 Islands, a distance of some sixty miles or more, nor 
 woidd they have hesitated to perform the voyage in their 
 frail bark. We had several Indians on board. Most oi 
 them were dressed in coats made out of blankets, the 
 black edge serving for collars and cuffs. Their colour 
 is rather dirty brown than copi)er, their features coarse 
 in the extreme, thick noses and heavy lips, narrow fore- 
 heads and eyes pointing downwards, and long straight 
 black hair. Generally they are smaller than English- 
 men. They are intelligent and energetic enough when 
 they have some obje.;t in view, but otherwise they are 
 
WESTERN AVAXDERINOS. 
 
 153 
 
 in<l..lont and apatliotic like most sava;ies. Wc had on 
 board a very superior and interestinj,' Indian (,f the name 
 of George. 
 
 I mentioned tliat with us in the stacje «as a white 
 woman and a cJn'IcL I heard Luis, the steward, tell her 
 that her husband was on board, and j)resently the Indian 
 appeared, and the white womnn and the red innn, for 
 they were husband and wife, shook linnds with the most 
 stoical indifference. Of the two the Indian was the more 
 animated, when he looked at his little whity-brown baby, 
 who seemed not a bit the worse lor its terrific bumping 
 dunno- the night. Mrs. George had been to visit some 
 relatives near Toronto. She was dressed as a somewhat 
 line housemnid in England would be. He wore a 
 shooting-jacket and round hat, and looked like a supe- 
 rior mechanic. George narrated his own history to me 
 m Ins simple, though somewhat broken English! As a 
 boy, he was taken to servo in the house of a cKu'gvman 
 at Manat.mwanning. Being found to bo a lad of quick 
 parts,^ the minister educated him, and had him taught 
 a variety of mechanical arts, so that he became a very 
 good carpenter, with a fair knowledge of farming matters. 
 His wife, an American by birth, was a servi^it in the 
 house, and he married her. He was then employed 
 m assistmg the missionary in teaching in the schools and 
 111 preaching the gospel to the Indians ; and I was told 
 that he preached very well. Indeed, the Indians natur- 
 ally excel as orators. He saved a good deal of money, 
 built himself a house, furnished it nicely, and cleared a 
 tarm and stocked it with cattle and sheep, but he was 
 not content. He was aml)itious of becoming a chief, and 
 of forming a settlement of his own. Indians have nothing 
 to pay for land on Indian reserves; and to the nortli^ 
 
154 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 west of Manatouwannin*,' there arc numberless beautiful 
 spots fit i'or bis object. lie select('d oiu! on the shore of 
 a deep channel, between two Islands, throu^di which tlie 
 sU'amer jjasses eacli voyage she makes, and where it is 
 found convenient for her to stop to take in a supply of 
 wood. Thither all bis family bad followed him — his 
 gnindfather, uncles, and aunts, and cousins, and be had 
 now come up to Coldwater to buy provisions for the 
 coming winter. He s<'enied a kind-hearted fellow, very 
 fond of bis wife and baby. Wliile she dined in the 
 saloon he always nursed the infiint, and dined himself 
 at the second table. lie recited prayers, scraps of ser- 
 mons, and bits of poetry, to give me a notion of the 
 Chippewa language. It sounded sonorous, though not 
 musical ; but I daresay, when uttered by an enthusiastic 
 chief, endeavouring to excite his hearers to foll.jw his 
 counsels, it would appear to far greater advantage. 
 
 On getting outside the harbour of Penetanguishlne, 
 wo found that the expected gale had sprung up, and we 
 began rolling, and i.itching, and tumbling about in the 
 most unenviable manner ; the short chop[)ing seas lookincr 
 as if every instant they would break aboard of us and 
 send our frail craft to the bottom. Not a stitch of can- 
 vass, nor a stick to set it on, had she to aid in steadying 
 her ; mid I saw that if our machinery gave way, we must 
 be driven, without the power of guiding ourselves, at the 
 mercy of the winds and waves. As we could see the 
 waves breaking with no httle violence on the headlands 
 and points to leewai'd, to contemplate the possibility of 
 such a disaster was far from pleasant ; so I said nothintr 
 about the matter, and endeavoured myself not to think 
 of it. Had I known what a civil engineer, a fellow- 
 passenger, afterwards told me, that the engine was higli- 
 
WESTERN WANDEUINGS. 
 
 155 
 
 l)ressuro, and tliat it wa? rtnrib!- out of order, I should 
 littvo been far loss at v.n- One is apt to fancy a 
 
 lake an ornamental and ' arm!' 38 bit of water, but I would 
 a luindred-fuld rather La.- ' n in a tolerably good ship 
 in a heavy gale of wind m mid ocean than where we 
 then floated on board ;!.. n doolah. A'l we could do 
 was to sit in a sort ot stern^gallery outsider the saloon, 
 holding on by the stanchions which supported the roof; 
 and here our two friends joined us and did their best to 
 amuse ns. 
 
 The Sheriff gave us a sketch of his early life, with 
 permission to publish it for the benefit of the rising ffonera- 
 tion. His father, a baker by tratle, came from England and 
 settled in Canada, somewhere near Kingston, whe'i-e he had 
 a large taniily. He afterwards removed to Penetangni- 
 shine, the place wo had just left. Having made a fair 
 fortune, but being without education, and feeling much the 
 want of it, he resolved to give his children the benefit of a 
 good one. His boys he therefore sent to the best school 
 in the province, then kept by Dr. Strachan, now Bishop 
 of Toronto. One of the youngest, our frien.l, then about 
 twelve years old, took it into his head on one occasion 
 that his clothes were not fit to appear in at an examina- 
 tion wliich occurred just before the holidays, so ran off, 
 a week before they began, to find his w ay across the wild 
 forest to Peuetanguisliine. Aided by a carter, who fvave 
 him a lift, he, in two days, reached Hollands Landing on 
 Lake Siincoe. Here he joined company witli a Canadian 
 fur-trader and his squaw, who were proceeding in the 
 direction he wisned to take; but after a day's"iourney 
 their route altered, and he then engaged two Indians, for 
 half the money he had in his pocket, to escort him home. 
 One went before and one behind throuiih the narrow 
 
156 
 
 WESTEUN AVANDEUIXGS. 
 
 forest track. The men were accoiiipanied by their 
 squaws. On their way they encountered four bears — 
 two big ones and their cubs. The latter climbed up a 
 tree. An Indian shot one of them, and our friend was 
 about to attack the other, when a squaw stopped him, 
 telling him that the big bear would have turned and torn 
 him to pieces. lie arrived at home with his clothes 
 rather more ragged than when he left Toronto. People 
 asked him if he was not afraitl to trust himself with wild 
 Indians ; but he said that as he had never harmed them, 
 he was sure they would not harm him. On the death of 
 his father, his eldest brother got possession of the pro- 
 [)erty, and refused to give any of it up to the rest of the 
 family. He was, tlierefore, glad to get apprenticed to a 
 chair-maker, as was a younger brother to a blacksmith. 
 When he had learnt his trade, finding his brother not 
 sufficiently strong for his, he ransomed him from his 
 apprenticeship by giving his master six first-rate chairs. 
 While working at chair-making, he had not neglected 
 his studies, and having attracted the attention of a })rinter, 
 got a good engagement froi.i him as a compositor in his 
 office. When his term was out, an extensive? store- 
 keeper wanting a clerk made him a good oU'er, and 
 after some time sent him up to manage a store at Kes- 
 wick on Lake Simcoe. When a steamer was put on the 
 lake, the owner made liiin purser, with ])crmission to 
 execute commissions for the settlers, half-pay officers, 
 and others on the banks, on his own account. This 
 answered so Avell, that he was able to open a store him- 
 self at liarrie, while he set up his brother in another at 
 Keswick. He now made several successful speculations 
 in land, and much increased his means. Lately, dis- 
 covering that there was a considerable extent of crown 
 
f*A 
 
 WESTERN WAXDEKINGS. 
 
 157 
 
 laiul at Collingwood, the proposed site of a settlement, lie 
 bid for it, and having no competitors, bought it at eight 
 shillings per acre. In a short time he had sold a small 
 portion of it in lots for 3000/. He next stood a contested 
 election for sheriff' of the comity of Simcoe, and though 
 his opponents accused him of being a mere pedlar and 
 speculator, he was returned triumphantly. The sim- 
 plicity with which he gave us this brief account of his 
 career was very interesting. It reminded me much of 
 Gait's history of Laurie Todd. 
 
 He tol! me that the Sheriff of the neighbouring 
 county had risen in a very similar manner. Indeed, his 
 is only one of numerous examples that talent, upright- 
 ness, perseverance, and energy, are certain of bringing 
 success in a new country like Canada, where they have 
 free scope and abundance of opportunities of exercise. 
 Our next port was to be Collingvvood, the Sheriff's new 
 
 settlement, where he and Mr. F were to land. A hot 
 
 dispute had been raging as to the propriety of bringmg 
 the Lake Simcoe and Huron Railway down to this place, 
 or avoidiiig it altogether, and carrying it on to the 
 flourishing village of Sydenham, at the head of Owen's 
 Sound. Collingwood is on the shore of an open bav, 
 with certain reefs and rocks rumnng out, Avhich forma 
 sort of natural harbour, and is, therefore, c asily accessible 
 for sailing vessels, whereas they would have often to beat 
 up Owen's Sound, which is a deep inlet of the lake, and 
 lose thereby much time. However, the latter appeared 
 to me a very fine and secure harbour, while with a (jah 
 blowing on shore, the Hen and her Chickens did not 
 appear ca])able of affording much protection to vessels 
 brought up inside them. 
 
 We kept the coast aboard on our larboard side all 
 
 I 
 
158 
 
 4 
 
 WESTERN WANDEKINGS. 
 
 I 
 
 the way— now and then crossing deep bays and standing 
 oif a little to double some headland or other. It was 
 uniformly covered with wood. Here and tht;re, scattered 
 wide apart, were a few clearings, but in general the 
 country is unsettled. 
 
 We passed a clearing belonging to a French gentle- 
 man, M. Le Batte, with whom F was acrpaainted. 
 
 He told us, that during the winter he was making a 
 journey on snow-shoes along the edge of the ice, when, 
 almost done up with fatigue, he came in sight of the 
 residence of Le Batte, who treated liim with the greatest 
 kindness. Thirty years ago Le .Batte was making a 
 voyage in a fur-trading bateau, when he was wrecked on 
 this spot. He built himself a shanty and remained some 
 time. iVfterwards he purchased some land and soon 
 disappeared; but returned again shortly with a wife, 
 erected a house and settled. He has brought up a larfre 
 family without ever quitting it. Who he is, or whence 
 he came from, or what brought him to Canada, no one 
 knows, but he seems to be a gentleman of edu(>ation and 
 
 talent, though somewhat eccentric. Next day F 
 
 tried to walk to Penetanguishine, sixteen miles, but the 
 water having got over the ice, made it so sloppy and 
 heav3% that he had great difficulty in performing his 
 journey- 
 In the winter the mail- r^^e conveyed from Coldwater 
 to Manatouwanning, tj . Bruce Mines, and the Sault 
 St. Marie, by Indians, with sleighs and dogs. The 
 course they keep is on the north shore of Lake Huron. 
 This is file only communication these places enjoy durintr 
 
 the long winter months with the civilised world. ' F - 
 
 described to as a number of cases in which men are 
 lost in the woods in winter. He was one of a searchinfr 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 159 
 
 party lor a poor fellow who was missing from his home. 
 They discovered him at no great distance frou) a spot 
 where he would have found shelter. He was sitting 
 with his back against a tree, but dead, with his faithful 
 dog crouching at his feet. 
 
 I was much amused at hearing that one of the men 
 in the hind seat of oiir waggon took me for an American, 
 because I was so proud. We went on pitching and 
 rolhng about dreadfully all the morning; BriL^g^ but- 
 toning his coat up closer, pressing his spectacled firmer 
 on his nose, and tying his wide-awake tighter under his 
 chm, looked askance at us from a distance, but he did 
 not draw near, for he evidently had taken a dislike to the 
 Sheriff. He f^incied him a sort of .Jonah, I believe, 
 whom he longed to pitch overboard. Briggs, also, most 
 certainly, di.l u..t admire this method of making a pleasure 
 toui-, nor did he the way mutters were managed on 
 board. J think he was right. 
 
 We passed Tomb Island, so called from having a 
 curious elevation m the centre like a long oval tomb- 
 stone. One n.ight fancy it the resting-place of some 
 giant warrior, a mighty chief among" the Red men, 
 long before their days of degeneracy. Our i>itchings 
 and numberiess occentric tmnblificatioiis had now reached 
 a point M'hich the ruling powers on board deemed no 
 longer safe, and, fortunately, the Christian gr<,up of 
 islands being near at hand, we ran for shelter uiiTi..t their 
 lee, and anchored in -> deep bay, on the rising shores of 
 wliich grew so dense a < ucst of tall trees, that though 
 the gale howled outside, scarcely a zephyr reached us. 
 The sky above us was bi'ight and blue, the air wfirm, 
 though pure, t'-, -.ater calm, and the trees so fresh anc' 
 grcvn, that we i;ppeared all of a sudden to have leaped 
 
 mM^ 
 w^ 
 
160 
 
 WESTERN WANDE1{IN38. 
 
 from autumn back again into the middle of summer. 
 After a one o'clock dinner, at the suggestion of the 
 Sheriff, we borrowed one of the ship's boats, in order to 
 visit an Indian settlement on the shore. Our party 
 
 consisted of the Sheriff and F , and several other 
 
 passengers, including, of course, Briggs. We pulled on 
 shore, and speedily found ourselves with real Indian 
 •wigwams, birch-bark canoes, bows and arrows, fishing 
 spears, and other articles which we had been wont to see 
 in museums, now actually before our eyes, backed by a 
 forest of tall tliiii trees, and, what was more, face to face 
 with a party of living Red Indians, who, with aj)pro))riate 
 stoical indifference, stood ga/ing before their conical bark- 
 covered habitations, withorJ advMicing a foot to meet 
 us. A )rund>er of squaws were also seated on the 
 ground and engaged in some work or other, but our 
 ap])earance in no way interrupted their oc.cu[)ati(vns. 
 We landed among several canoes, a little way from the 
 village. (.)n a tree close at hand, hung some bows and 
 bolt-headed arrows, with whicJi Briggs endeavoured to 
 exhibit his talents as a msii-ksman. Shoving back his 
 wide-awake, he threw himself into an attitude, and 
 shutting one eye, he ga/ed with the other fiercely 
 through his spectacles, and drew the string, aiming at a 
 tree some twenty yards off; but, instead, the arrow 
 flying u]) towards the Indians, made them fancy we had 
 landed with hostile intent, and two of them came down 
 to learn ^hat was the matter. Though we did our best 
 to ]»ersuade our eccentric companion that they wen' 
 bent on demanding our heads or their scalps, and ol' 
 hanging them upon the trees above their bows, Briggs, 
 nothing daunted, seized a second arrow, and slu)t again; 
 but even he could not withstand the griii of auuisement 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 161 
 
 which his attempt actually brought out on the generally 
 grave countenances of the Red islanders. We, in the 
 m<.>antime, were examining the canoes, A-hich were 
 beautifully made with ribs and inside planking of white 
 cedai-, split and scra])ed as ,<niooth as ivory with a com- 
 mon knife ; tlie outside being composed of "^a single sheet 
 of bircli-bark, sewn on with the root of the tamarack-tree, 
 the gum from whicli serves to cement the seams. The 
 Indians sell canoes such as I am describing for about 
 twelve dollars. One of them carried four whites of 
 our i)arty, and three Indians as crew, and could easily 
 have held two or three more people. Briirgs, growin- 
 tired of shooting, had bustled otl' to the village, with hk 
 wide-awake pressed deeply over his brows, mid his stick 
 cluvchod firmly in his hand, evidently intending to create a 
 sensation; but he had to retreat somewhat hastilv before 
 a crowd of dogs, who rushed forth, barking f\u'iouslv 
 at him; their Indian masters not deeming it requisite 
 to call them off. He afforded a strong contrast to the 
 Sheriff, who, knowing well those we came to visit, led 
 the way uitli dignified slowness among the stumps of 
 trees up the slope, towards the wigwams, huts, and lean- 
 tos, which appeared scattered about before us. Their 
 fields and gardens, we were told, were some way off, 
 wliere the soil was richer, in the centre of the island.' 
 We visited most of the habitations in succession, shaking 
 hands witii the sc^uaws and men, and saying, " Boo joo," 
 "Boo joo," they answering "Boo joo/' A corruption, 
 evideiitly, of - Bon jour," which they have learned from 
 the C'-anadian voyageurs, who themselves do not speak 
 the purest French. 
 
 ^ These wigwams were formed of eight or en long 
 thm poles, their lower ends spread out on the grounrl^ 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 M 
 
162 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 while near the upper end, they ai-e tied togetlier so as to 
 form a cone. On the outside are laid one or two layers 
 of birch-bark, reaching almost to the top, where, how- 
 ever, a small space is left to allow the escape of the 
 smoke from the fire. They are sometimes lined with 
 mats, with which also the floor is carpeted, having a space 
 left in the centre for the fire, which is always placed 
 there. The lean-tos are more like gipsy-tents in shape, 
 though they, like the others, are made of the all-useful 
 birch-bark. Some have only one side, — that on wliich the 
 wind blows — covered, in. Besides these more primitive 
 habitations, there were several good plank huts in the 
 village. Some we entered were divided by a cui-tain 
 Into two apartments, with broad benches all the way 
 /ound, covered with beautifidly mado sti-aw mats. These 
 benches serve for beds. The roof of each was thickly 
 hung with the yellow heads of Indian corn —the ^vinter 
 store of food for the family— forming a richly-coloured 
 ceiling. 
 
 In front of one of the first we came to, seated on the 
 ground, was a large family party, consisting of a s. liling 
 buxom mother and several girls and little brown boys, 
 all busily employed in husking the ears of Indian corn. 
 They left only a few paper-like leaves near the stem by 
 which to hang them up. The little boys gazed motion- 
 less at us with open eyes and moutli ; and one papoose, 
 not satisfied,— as he saw Briggs's spectacles, wide-awake, 
 and nose,— but that we were some strange wild animals, 
 took fright and began to roar and cry most histily, nor 
 would he be consoled by his laughing mamma, who wiped 
 his eyes and caressed him most affection;; tely, nor by a 
 glittering six}>ence which the Sheriff bestoAved on him. 
 This latter gift, however, won tlie hearts of the rest 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 163 
 
 of the party. They all lanphed heartily as we carried 
 on a most voluble conversation by signs, which they 
 seemed perfectly to comprehend. They ai,peare<l a very 
 merry and contented set, not at all addicted to scalping, 
 and totally unlike all the ideal I had formed of North 
 American Indians, whom I had fancied g.-ave, taciturn, 
 and somewhat morose, scarcely indulging in a smile, and 
 never giving way to laughter. Some of' these girls had 
 regular featiu-es, and were very nice-looking. One the 
 flower of the flock, had a broad brass ring on each of her 
 eight fingers, and two or three necklaces of coloured 
 beads. Both men and women wear ear-rings of every 
 variety of form, often aprx>aring from under dirty loner 
 shocks of black matted hair redolent of grease. This 
 happy-looking family party were dressed chiefly in blue 
 cotton prmt gowns. On parting, we repeated « Bm 
 joo, and shook hands ail round 
 
 A little way off, sat by herself an old woman, 
 sheltered from the wind by a blanket stretched on poles, 
 shelling maize, which she tossed into a big iron pot, 
 making a mixture, in appearance very like" pea-soup! 
 Ihe Indians make soup of everything -fish, and fowl, 
 and corn, and vegetables. They are certainly not 
 epicures. They say, as it meets after it cets into the 
 mouth, why should it not before, and thus save trouble 1» 
 I took a head of the corn, giving the old woman some 
 pnce m return; she made no objection, but neither 
 smded nor stopped in her employment. She would have 
 served a painter as an excellent model for a witch in 
 Macbeth. Another pot full of leaves, with two big 
 stones to keep them down, was stewing away outside 
 a Init. The leaves were to produce some dye for stain- 
 nig the rush-mats. 
 
164 
 
 WESTERN WANDEIilNGS. 
 
 I 
 
 Creeping under a ragged blanket^ Ining up to serve 
 as a door, we next entered, accompanied bj the Slierifl 
 
 and F , a bircli-bark wigwam. On one side sat a 
 
 fat middle-aged woman, dressed in a bine cotton gown, 
 plaiting a mat of dyed rushes. " Boo joo," said we. 
 "Boo joo," replied the matron, and we all sat down, 
 uninvited, round the Avigwam, on tolerably clean mats, 
 which covered the ground, not, however, apparently 
 causing her any displeasure. Had she felt any at 
 first, the Sheritrs gift of a silver coin speedily made 
 us welcome. The frame of this wigwam consisted of 
 eight long sticks, spread out to form a cii'cle about 
 nine feet in diameter. In the centre were the embers of 
 a fire, over wliich, from the top, hung an iron pot; 
 round the side were placed, without an}' order, boxes, 
 and bundles, and baskets, and tubs, made of birch-bark, 
 and wooden spoons ; while from the roof were suspended 
 fish-roe, dried fish, fishing-spears and other tackle, two 
 iron pots, and a number of fine heads of Indian com. 
 There was also a little blanket hammock, and on lifting 
 up the covering, we there discovered, apparently almost 
 smothered by a heap of ])lankets, a little red, or rather 
 brown papoose, whose physiognomy would certainly have 
 been the better for wasliing. I otfered to adopt him if 
 my wife wished ; but even four dollars would not tempt 
 his mother to part with him, and I would not give more ; 
 indeed, I could have bouglit one of the beautiful mats 
 she was making for about the same sum, and that would 
 have been more convenieiit to carry away. The good 
 squaw seemed highly gratified with the attention we 
 were paying her pa})oose — a sign that a mother's heart is 
 of much the same material under whatever coating it 
 beats. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 165 
 
 We were about to take our departure, when we heard 
 lintrcrs outside inquiring what hud become of us ; pre- 
 sently his spectacles, snub nose, and wide-awake, apjwared 
 a1)ove the l)hinket, which served as a door, while, forget- 
 ful of the frail nature of the structure, he leajied his 
 elbows on the line whicJi su])ported it, and narrowly 
 escaped bringing the whole tenement down about our 
 heads. As it was, the line gave way, and he toppled 
 headforemost into the w^igwam, very nearly landinn- 
 among the burning embers in tlie middle, and upsetting 
 the pot of scalding soup over himself and us. However, 
 without doing any real damage, he contrived to })ick 
 himself uj) and to take his seat in the circle. He anmsed 
 us much witli his attempts at nursing the baby, and with 
 the remarks he addressed to the mother. As my wife 
 would not have it, I endeavoured to persuade him to 
 adopt the papoose, and to exhibit it to his friends in 
 England as a proof of his desire to introduce the advan- 
 tages of civilisation among the Red children of the far 
 West. On the ground near the hanunock was a curious 
 little tray cradle. It is, as 1 have called it, a tray, on 
 which the cliild is laid on its back, firmly secured bv 
 bandages, wliile a half-hooy), projecting from the upper 
 part, guards the head. The mother hangs it over her 
 back witJi straps when she moves about, its face turned 
 outwards, or leans it against a tree or bank when she 
 wishes to rest. I am sur[)rised that when Indian children 
 begin to Avalk, they do not try at first to Malk back- 
 wards. 
 
 I have not, as yet, described the costume of the men, 
 because it would have sadly spoilt tlie picturesqueness of 
 the sketch ; but truth compels me to confess that most 
 of them wore not ill- made l)lanket coats and decent 
 
166 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 trousers ; that some even had on shooting-jac;kets and 
 caps and otliors blac k coats and trousers, and black 
 round hats; nor did the complexion of the wearers difler 
 mucli from that of many Portuguese and Brazilians I 
 have met. They looked not quite like gentlemen, but 
 rather like the col,>ured waiters at an hotel, or those 
 renmants of barbarism, mutes in attendance on a fmieral, 
 though the latter might well have envio.l those natural 
 weeiK3rs, their long elfin locks, which hung from imder 
 their hats and cai),s. One jolly young fellow, ^md food- 
 look ing withal, made his api,earance from one of the 
 best huts m the village, his smiling face painted with red 
 stripes and a white and red turban on his head, though 
 his lower man was clothed much like his companions, 
 except that he had adorned his cuffs with beads, and 
 hung some fringe round his knees mid ankles. He wa« 
 evidently got up extensively to commit execution on the 
 heart of some briglit tinted damsel, though he dc^nied the 
 soft nnpeachment, and declared that he had a wife 
 working in the fields. As a professing Christian, his 
 allowance would only be one. All the men compre- 
 bended what was sai<l to them, though none of them 
 uttered a word of English. 
 
 The Sheriff, notwiriistanding that he had not been 
 here for twenty yenrs or more, recollected that in the 
 neighbourhood there then existed the remains of a fort 
 built by the I rench Jesuits, either the celebrated Father 
 Hennepm, or his immediate successors, the first pioneers 
 of Christianity and civilisation in those l,enighted regions. 
 Thougdi the ^uccess of the pious fathers was smalf, and 
 has left but few traces behind, their courage and perse- 
 verance were great. Not only were they sunWed 
 by fierce and warlike tribes longing for the scalps of 
 
WESTERN WAXDERINGS. 
 
 167 
 
 -jackets and 
 , and liliick 
 carers difl'cr 
 Brazilians I 
 tlemen, but 
 el, or tliose 
 n a funeral, 
 loso natural 
 from under 
 , Jind tfood- 
 one of the 
 ed with red 
 ■ad, though 
 ompanions, 
 beads, and 
 I. He was 
 tion on the 
 denied the 
 ad a wife 
 fistian, his 
 n conipre- 
 3 of tliem 
 
 not been 
 lat in the 
 i of a fort, 
 ed Father 
 t pioneers 
 d regions, 
 imall, and 
 nd perse- 
 iJi'oundcd 
 scalps of 
 
 white men; but they had to makt; their way through 
 unknown forests, aci'oss rivers and lakes, with a most pre- 
 carious supply ol" food, and to remain for th<; long drearv 
 winter months shut up without the possibility of holding 
 communication with civilised men. To learn the vvhere- 
 :ibouts of the fort, the Sheriff called a tall Indian, the 
 father of the smiling damsels, and otners of the men who 
 stood round, while he drew its form with his stick on the 
 sand, indicating the direction in which lu; believed it to 
 exist. He then took out a shilling, and, holding up two 
 lingers, pointed to a canoe, and then again doing the 
 same, pointed to another. At each telegraphic process, 
 the Indians grunted out, in their deep-toned voices, an 
 acknowledgment that they comj)r<ihended, and also let 
 us know that tht^ fort was two miles otf. 
 
 Before launching the canoes, turning them botti^m 
 up, they br-mght some lighted torches from the huts, 
 and held them over the seams, applying, at the same 
 time, some more tamarack gum. Two men then gently 
 lifted them into the water, and they were brought along- 
 side our boat. Briggs, eagtT to lead the way, instantly 
 tumljled into one, very nearly capsizing her. Great as 
 is the Aveight these canoes are capable of carrying, it is 
 necessjiry to sttip very carefully into tlie exact centre to 
 avoid a capsize. Escaphig such a catastrophe, we, with 
 
 the Sherifl" and F , embarked 'n one, having two 
 
 Indians sitting on narrow thwarts level with the gun- 
 wale, paddling hi the bows, and a third at the stern. 
 A low box was placed for my wife to sit on, but we men 
 had to s(puit down in a posture neither graceful nor 
 C(mifortable. Away ^v^i went right merrily, cutting 
 rapidly through the bright blue waters along tlie tree- 
 
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 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
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 talking to each other, delighted, doubtless, with the nn- 
 expectcd harvest of wealth they were about to make. 
 iinggs, with three other men, were in another canoe, his 
 wide-awake and siHvjtacles just appearing above the sides 
 on which his two hands grasped firmly, afforded us 
 amusement the whole way. We were rather jealous, 
 however o his having the be-painted Adonis, who 
 pulluig the b.>w-paddle, mnde a capital figure-head to tlie 
 canoe. The idea then struck me that the world would 
 be much «i,fied with a true ,md authentic account of the 
 Briggs s adventures among the Indians. The trees on the 
 ^hore loo««l like mere saplings as we pulled along, being 
 at some little distance from them ; yet when we sto«l „eaf 
 feir branches stems, we found their size considerable. 
 We coasted thus for two miles, highly delighted with 
 our novel position and mode of transit, when we landed 
 by means of a fallen log, and plunged at once into 
 the intricate labyrinth of an Indian Bush. Our Red 
 friends led us m Indian file, breaking off the twigs .as if 
 by mstmct to mark our course, as we tin^eaded our way 
 aniong trees of all heights and d..scriptions, maple, black^ 
 *^o™, pme, birch whUe the wild vine and numberless 
 other creepers twined round their stems, and hung in 
 graceful festoons over our heads; and thonsandf of 
 shnibs and plants with leaves of every shape, and often rf 
 grea ze, covered the gromid hi rich profusion. Count- 
 ess fallen trees, some of them giant, of tlie forest, in all 
 stages of decomposition, lay h, our way; and fi-equently 
 as some ot the party spnmg on tlieir seimuigly fll Cl 
 Aey;-"^ "r to their knees in the softest Lei.-™: 
 Alter walking m this mamier for some little distance. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 169 
 
 and passing over bits of very swampy ground, suggesting 
 rattlesnakes and other unpleasant denizens of the forest, 
 we came upon the ruins A^e were searching for. 
 
 The waUs were still three feet or more above the 
 decayed vegetable soil which surrounded them. The 
 fort was square, with a round tower at each comer, and 
 the stones were fastened with cement. In the interior 
 were two tanks and a deep well; for, though the lake 
 was but a few yards off; in case of an attack, the de- 
 fenders might have been unable to supply themselves 
 with water. There were division-walls, showing that 
 the fort contained three or more apartments on the 
 ground-floor. Round the outer walls we found the re- 
 mains of what must have been a deep trench, or it 
 would long since have been filled up, and we could 
 trace the channel by which the water from the lake was 
 let into it. A tall tree now grows with floui'ishing 
 branches on the highest wall. This island-fort is the 
 only existing trace of the Jesuit Fathers and their self- 
 denying labours, while the Indians still roam tlieir na- 
 tive wilds and blue lakes. But a change has come over 
 them— tlieir numbers are rapidly thinning, and soon they 
 wiU scarcely be known in the lands of their fathers, but 
 by tradition. Even now they are no longer the same 
 people they once were ; for, unless historians, poets, and 
 novelists, strangely deceive us, the good-natured, easy- 
 going, laughing, idle, brown fellow of the present day 
 contrasts greatly witli the fierce Red warrior of a century 
 ago. These are said to be the most ancient, if not the 
 only ruins in Canada. 
 
 Having satisfied ourselves witii inspecting them, my 
 wife aiid I set out tc find our way back to the canoe, not 
 waiting for our Indian guides or the rest of the party, 
 
 !! 
 
 '■I! 
 
 !: 
 
w^ 
 
 ^" 
 
 170 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 and in two minutes had practical experience with what 
 perfect ease people may lose themselves in an American 
 torest We did the wisest thing under the circum- 
 stances stood still, admiring the wild luxuriance of the 
 forest thickets, till the Indians found us and led us to 
 the canoes, which there were a hundred chances to one 
 we should not have found by ourselves. 
 
 Seeing smoke ascending from the steamer's funnel, we 
 paddled back to her, fancying she was preparing to get 
 under way, but either the cook was stirring up his fire or 
 the blacksimth was mending some of the machmery, for 
 she remained steady at anchor till next morning. I missed 
 the opportunity of sketching the village, with its half- 
 savage inhabitants, their canoes, and the various articles 
 ot domestic use and manufacturing implements scattered 
 about It. In the evening several canoes came off, some 
 with squaws and their papooses and others with men- 
 but our friends had made an extraordinary change iii 
 then- costumes, and had domied what they considered 
 their ba Wresses. They were no longer the mute-like, 
 respectable-looking citizens, in black coats and tweeds, 
 we had seen in the morning ; now huge plumes of many- 
 coloured feathers decked their heads, and tails of foxes 
 and other animals hung down their backs. Theh- faces 
 were painted in stripes of red and black, while beads 
 and leathers formed fringes round their waists, their 
 knees and ankles. One carried a drum, and the rest bore 
 m their hands war-clubs, tomahawks, and calumets orna- 
 mented with feathers, while their feet were covered with 
 embroidered moccasins. To be sure trousers and tweed 
 coats could be seen from under the feathery and skin- 
 coverings of bygone days ; and one or two had put 
 coloured shirts over their other garments to add grace 
 
WESTEEN WANDERINGS. 
 
 171 
 
 and elegance to their costume. A funny jumble it was 
 truly, the oddest mixture of the past and present I 
 ever saw. There .vas a far greater variety of costume 
 than is to be found among the members of the most 
 civilised c'rcles, as each man had consulted his own 
 taste or notions of elegance. One exquisite had painted 
 one cheek red and the other green. The physiognomy 
 of a second was adorned with red and white stripes, and 
 a patch of red on his brow ; a third had covered the 
 whole of his face with the orightest vermilion ; some 
 wore huge straggling head-dresses of feathers; anotlier's 
 scalp was covered with three distinct bushes, ^hile 
 several had on turbans of red and white Imen, the ends 
 hanging down far over then- backs. 
 
 A^'hile the men were coquetting, in order to find out 
 how much fire-water they were lii- . ly to receive as a 
 reward of their exertions, rather than from any native 
 bashfulnesp, the squaws came on board, leaving their 
 infants leaning up in their frames against the side of 
 the canoes. Not a cry escaped from one of the little 
 creatures, but, with their bright intelligent eyes, they 
 seemed to be contemplatmg the curious-looking monster 
 before them, and deeply interested in watchmg every 
 movement on board. 
 
 The negotiation about the grog having been satisfac- 
 torily arranged, the man with the drum seated liimself 
 on some of the cargo, and began drumming away, and 
 uttering a monotonous chant, the rest arranging them- 
 selves in the open space in front of the ladies' cabin, 
 which was to serve as the ball-room. Our friend with 
 the enormous feather head-dress, and a fantail down his 
 back, opened the ball with a pas seul a la grinouille to 
 the most lugubrious of chants and least musical of 
 
 % 
 
172 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 druminings ; though, when he had concluded, he appeared 
 to have performed some most anmsing act, for he burst 
 into fits of laugliter, in which he was joined by all his 
 companions. Next, six or eight of them came on at once, 
 with war-hat(diets or tomahawks in tlu^ir hands, jumping 
 round and round, following each other in a circle in a 
 squatting attitude, sometimes rising and then sinking 
 again, all the time uttering loud cries and yells, grunts 
 and squeaks, apparently to imitate foxes; the drum 
 and the singer making very approi^riate music. At the 
 conclusion they gave way to shouts of laughter, to liide, 
 I began to suspect, a certain }>mount of shaine ihey felt 
 at thus exhibiting themselves for the amusement of 
 strangers. Next, two of them advanced to perform a 
 war-dimce. This was far better; though, instead of 
 war-clubs, by the advice of the missionaries, on such 
 occasions, they held in their hands large bunches of 
 feathers. They knelt, they sank down, they glided 
 cautiously towards each other, they struck, now slowly, 
 then rapidly, they sprang backwards, then forwards,* 
 then on cue side, then on the other; indeed, with the 
 most admirable precision as to time, they went through 
 every attitude into which men engaged in a deadly com- 
 bat with short weapons could be supposed to throw them- 
 selves. All the time they were uttering the most mi- 
 earthly shrieks and cries, while their eye-balls seemed 
 almost starting out of their heads with their excitement 
 and exertions. One of the dancers id'terwards got a 
 large bell, and rang it, instead of shaking the feathers, 
 m his adversary's face, to the great amusement of the 
 rest. 
 
 On a second performance of the comic dance, a huge 
 figure, covered with white skins, rushed forwai-d with a 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 173 
 
 big club in his hand, and hopped round with even 
 greater vehemence than the rest. We had concluded 
 that he was the great medicine-man of the tribe, when 
 part of his head-gear getting loose, revealed the good- 
 natured features of our friend F . 
 
 All this time the squaws had been getting up a pri- 
 vate dance by themselves, at which Briggv stood admir- 
 ingly gazing. One of them had intrusted him with her 
 pai)oose, wh n, he not being able a^ain to distinguish the 
 mother, began to be dreadfully afraid that she contem- 
 plated leaving it on his hands altogether. In like man- 
 ner, after examining a tomahawk, and flourishing it about 
 most vehemently, it wa? highly amusing to watch his 
 perplexity a.s h? went round from one red savage to the 
 others, to find the lawful owner. Poor Briggs ! thou 
 wert an honest good fellow at bottom, I verily believe, 
 though, from necessity perhaps, a Uttle self-caring, from 
 nature not a little eccentric. It was late before our 
 savage guests took their departure, and I was not sorry 
 to bo free of them. 
 
 That they were still more savage than civilised, the 
 mode in which they treat their women undoubtedly 
 proves. Such is the only remnant of wild Indian life to 
 be found in these regions. We should have had to 
 travel many hundred miles towards the Far- West to see 
 ^he Red Man in his primitive savage condition, where 
 blankets, beads, and fire-water, cannot reach him. 
 
 f ■# 
 
 I 
 
■ii^ 
 
 pn 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 The wind falluig somewhat at daylight, the steamer was 
 got under way and ran towards the new settlement of 
 Co hngwood As we neared the place about eight 
 oclock, the Sheriff, wl.o was enthusiastic about its beau- 
 ties, begged me, in defiance of the icy-cold wind which 
 was blowmg, to come on deck and behold the CoUing- 
 wood mountains and the site of the future town. On 
 lookmg out, I saw a range of wood-covered hills, a saw- 
 mill, and several plank-houses, the principal one a large 
 store wbch had suddenly arisen on the forest-shore. 
 To the left we could distinguish the long cutting through 
 the forest, made for the railway, which already reaches 
 close down to the water ; and to the right were the rocks, 
 called the Hen and Chickens, said to constitute it a safe 
 harbour. Bnggs having surveyed the place through a 
 telescope, I asked him what he thought of it 
 
 "Think, sir ! why that the whole affair is a hum- 
 bug P he replied, testHy. " It's an open roadstead, and 
 the Hen and her Chickens they talk so much about can 
 be of no more use in protecting vessels at anchor than 
 a duck and her ducklings would be. The country about 
 
WE8TE11N WANDE1IING8. 
 
 175 
 
 looks fine enough, but no one who hasn't got land to sell 
 can see anythuig like a harbour in there. That's my 
 opinion, sir, and the public tire welcome to it." 
 
 The SherifFhad politely asked him to go on shore to 
 correct his opinior. by a nearer inspection, but he shook 
 his head, and muttered, sotto wee, " It's a humbug !— it's 
 a imnibug !— I'll none on'tl" We, however, very gladly 
 accepted our companion's invitation to visit the i)kce, as 
 it was precisely the sort of settlement we wished to see, 
 one in the first few weeks of its existence. We landed in 
 the steamer's boat near v.diere a stout wooden pier was in 
 the com-se of construction, with the railway embankment 
 coming down to it ; and then we took our way along a fine 
 hard sandy beach, among logs and heaps of sawn timber, to 
 the house of the place, a large plank-store of three stories, 
 capable of holding many thousand pounds' worth of 
 rough merchandise suited to the wants of the country. 
 Several sites of future streets were marked out. One 
 called Pine Street, and another Hurontario Street, which 
 is to reach in a straight Une from Lake Huron to Lake 
 Ontario,— but not, however, to be lined all the distance 
 with houses, I presume. I always was Interested in 
 looking down a long vista cut through tli.' forest for a 
 new road, the pioneer of progress and civilisation in a 
 free country, of tyranny and extortion in a despotic one. 
 E\'ery inch of the ground was rough with logs, fallen 
 tnmks, great and small branches, chips, stones, planks, 
 and other sawn timber, down to the very water's edge. 
 
 Seeing a number of people with their hands in their 
 pockets standing about, we inquired how it was they 
 could find time to be idle, « We don't work in this 
 country on a Sunday," replied the Sheriff. We had 
 only got up just before leaving the vessel, and had for- 
 
 5 
 
 i *l 
 
176 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 gotten the day. Manj, I fear, are apt to do so in the 
 back-woods. 
 
 Most of the intended streets were still filled with 
 blackened stumps, some three and four feet high, looking 
 like representatives of the future population hurrying 
 out of their dwellings on some exciting occasion. Other 
 streets were only to be dis^inguinhed by the blazing on 
 the trees. Having made our way to Pine Street, \\e 
 entered a two-roomed house, where a quiet, respectable, 
 happy-looking fiimily were sitting in their kitchen-parlour 
 after breakfiist «' reading their books," as they say in Scot- 
 land. We were introduced in form, shook hands all 
 rouhd, and then sat down and chatted a little with them, 
 and found they liked the place and their prospects. Our 
 visit was, of necessity, short. Hand-shaking as before, 
 we wished them farew(>ll. Lastly, we entered the cottjige 
 of a gentlemanly young man, the American ' eng-neer 
 employed on that part of the road. He had a pretty 
 young wife and sister. It seemed strange to find so 
 much refinement in so wild a spot. They were tired of 
 the life, and were looking forward to the winter to return 
 to the States. Of course we shook hands with every- 
 body, both entering and leaving. We then hurried 
 back to the boat, and taking a cordial farewell of the 
 
 Sheriff and F , than whom more good-natured, 
 
 agreeable companions I have seldom met, we embarked 
 on an impromptu pier of planks constructed for our ac- 
 commodation. 
 
 In spite of the prognostications of the worthy Briggs, 
 may Collingwood succeed, and may we live to see it a 
 fine and flourishing town, as we beheld it in a state of 
 sturdy and promising infancy. Coasting along, we 
 passed a number of clearings, "little bites," as A 
 
WESTERN WANDEKINGS. I77 
 
 callerl tlio^, out of the huge, even, cake-like forest whieh 
 covered tlie face of the wirth. 
 
 Stoi.j>ing at auotlier new village, with a few acres 
 only cleared, and four <,r five log-huta on it, we entered 
 tliat very fine estuary, Owen's Sound. I'he land on the 
 right IS an Indian reserve, and thither a large tribe of 
 ndiana had been removed from the neighbourhood of 
 Montreal about a year before. They a],peared to have 
 been very industriously employed; for, in that short 
 tune, <-lcanngs had been made all along the shore, and 
 log-huts, frame-houses, mid wigwams, ]m\ sprung up in 
 all directions. * 
 
 At the head of the Sound we brought up alongside a 
 substantial pier, close to the thriving-looking town of 
 Sydenham, with its river flowing into the lake a-head of 
 us and on the oprK)site shore the picturesque little Indian 
 village of Neewash. The inlutbitants of the town came 
 down m crowds to visit the steamer, neatlv dressed in 
 {Sunday attu-e, all looking thoroughly and perfectly Eng- 
 lish. Seven years ago, Sydenham was like Collingwood 
 -a speculation-a town in prospect, but then a name in 
 a nook of the forest. Now many hundred acres have 
 been cleared round it, several long streets have not only 
 >een laid out, but have dwellings, frame-houses, brick- 
 iiouses, log-houses, and cottages, on each side of them 
 two or more places of worship, a substantial stone court- 
 house and gaol, and several mills on the river. It is 
 prettily situated on a hill-side on the east shore of the 
 bound and ext^-nds some way up the bank of the river. 
 It IS about to stretch itself on the level ground on the top 
 ot the hill, which seemed from fifty to a hundi-ed feet 
 Jngh. We landed, walked along the pier, and over a 
 new road of shingles and logs, with the black stumps of 
 
 VOL. I. XT 
 
 N 
 
 fl 
 
-"— f- 
 
 I7(i 
 
 WESTERN WANDERIN08. 
 
 rn 
 
 lately-<.'learcHl ground on either sido of us, looked up n 
 long broad street of cottages, with a gotnl-size*! inn at 
 one end, and tlun thought it pi-udont to r» trace our 
 steps. Some ol' the dwellings were as rough as any 
 romantic lover of the backwoods might desire, but others 
 were formed of neatly-cnt and smoothed planks, some 
 decorated with columns and Corinthian or Doric ca{)ital8 ; 
 others with deej) verandahs and gi'een bUnds, a style 
 most fitted for the country; some were neatly painted to 
 lo(jk like s«.one ; a few were of two stories ; and two or 
 more were of brick : but all wore an air of comfort, and 
 prosperity. Each stood in a good-sized ]>lot of ground, 
 fitted for the reception of a far larger mansion when the 
 means of the owner will allow him to build one. 
 
 The Lake Simcoe and Huron Railway is to be ex- 
 tended shortly as far as Sydenham, and will add very 
 much to the prosperity of the place. Surrounded also, 
 as it is, by a fine agricidtr-al district, and with the 
 commerce of the lake in additici, and cheap water com- 
 munication to the farms which will ere long fringe the 
 shores of the gulf, and a perfectly secure harbour, it 
 cannot fail to grow in size and flourish exceedingly. 
 
 It was provoking to find that the steamer did not 
 sail agjiin till dusk, so that we might have made an in- 
 teresting excursion uito the interior, where we were told 
 the scenery along the side of the river is very pretty. 
 Some pleasure-boats were sailing about, and a number of 
 canoes, with Indians, came oft' from their village to have 
 a look at us. 
 
 Briggs was enraptured with the place : " Compare 
 Collingwood with this, sir ! Pooh ! pooh ! it is not to be 
 compared," said he. " Here is a harbour, if you please, 
 — a well-sheltered natural harbour. Now, this is a spot, 
 
WESTERN WANDEI11N08, 
 
 179 
 
 on the top of that hill there, for instance, where I could 
 settle down and make myself comfortable. When the 
 railway is brought here, as well as to CoUijigwood, it 
 will soon bo proved who was right I" 
 
 All night long wo were steering a northerly course 
 along the Georgian Bay, rolling and pitching in the 
 most di8(iuieting manner. Our state-room was "a sort of 
 pocket out of the ladies' cabin, and having windows 
 looking on the water, I could watch the dark leaden 
 waves leaping and tumbling; and appearing every mo- 
 ment as if about to wash over our low deck and send us 
 to the bottom. For a couple of hours or more, till we 
 got under the lee of the Great Manatoulin Island, we 
 were exposed to the full sweep of the Lake Huron. A 
 glance at the map will show, that there is here ample 
 distance to allow a very disagreeable sea to get up. 
 Fortunately, at that time we were still in blissfiil igno- 
 rance of the condition of our high-pressure engine. The 
 space between our cabin and the bulwarks was occupied 
 by five or six Indians, men and women, habited in 
 blanket-garments; and there they sat, crouching down 
 side by side ull night long, their long lank hair and dark 
 brown features alone showing that their bodies were not 
 bundles of bed-clothes. They were miserable, melan- 
 choly specimens of humanity, brought thus low by a 
 pseudo civilisation. I was truly thankful when, at early 
 da-yn, we got into smooth water, and I cotdd distinguish 
 the low-wooded land stretching away on our weather- 
 side. 
 
 Rounding the eastern end of the Great Manatoulin, 
 we entered a deep gulf, called Heywood Sound, and 
 brought up before a picturesque little village of cottages, 
 and a church with a tin-covered spire standing on a 
 
 
 i. 
 
180 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 point running into it. This was Manatouwanning, tJie 
 capita] of this Indian inhabited ..sland. In a neat cottage, 
 with green Venetian blinds, at the end of the point, resides 
 Captain Ironsides, the Indian su[)erintendent for all the 
 regions in the neighbourhood of l^akes Huron and Supe- 
 rior. Under him is a chaplain, school-master, and sur- 
 geon, but no white persons are allowed to settle on the 
 islands. This was the place where George was brought 
 up under Mr. O'Meara, the clergyman. There are only 
 twelve families living in the village, though there are 
 upwards of two thousand natives on the ishuid, the 
 greater proporticjn of whom profess the llonn'sh faith. 
 At a 8ettlem(?nt on the other side, a considerable imniber 
 reside under four Jesuit fathers, and they are said to be 
 a very- obedient, industrious, and intelligent set, and 
 superior to the IVotestants ; but of the truth of the asser- 
 tion I have no means of judging. 
 
 Landijig, we walked to the little church, which was 
 of planks, and had a small spire. The door yielded to 
 our pressure. The interior was wiiite-vashed, perfectly 
 plain, and full of benches. On the desk was a New- 
 Testament in the Chippewa dialect. The Jesuits [)ro- 
 bably offer more attractions to the eyes of the savages 
 than can the worthy Mr. O'Meara. The whole popu- 
 lation, clad in blanket-garments, turned out to meet 
 George and his wife and baby ; but he a]-»]ieared to treat 
 them all with the most apathetic indifference. The 
 tinkUng of the steamer's bell made us hurry on boai-d. 
 
 Nothing can be more retired than the life led by 
 Captain Ironsides' family. Two of his daughters and 
 two nieces came off to go for a little gaiety (as they told 
 us) to the American village at the Sault St. Marie, ajid 
 that is one of the most remote outposts of the United 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 181 
 
 States. Everything is by comparison. Poor girls! they 
 were sadly (li.sapi^)inted : we Jiad a rainy, stormy time of 
 it there, and the steamer being late, started again the 
 very morning after h..T arrival, antl they had to return 
 in her, instead of spending the day with their friends. 
 
 Heywood Sound is a very picturesque place, and 
 twenty years lience, or perhaps even in less time, when 
 the white tide of population sweeps thus far, and the 
 dark-skinned natives recede before it, as hitherto they 
 ha\-e unfailingly done, these islands will be covered with 
 fertile and flourishing farms and villages, and will sup- 
 port many more thousand inhabitants than they at present 
 number families. 
 
 The weather was so cold that we were glad to have 
 the fire lighted in the cabin-stove. I found George 
 nursing his l)aby close to the chimney, wliich was nearly 
 red-hot. I told him lu; would roast it. He laughed at 
 the notion, and shook his head, as much as to say, it takes 
 a great deal to hurt an Indian baby, but he moved 
 away. He is a clever mechanic, can make furniture, and 
 build houses and canoes, and sings w^ell. He dresses 
 neatly in a shooting-jackt^t, and, though a full Indian, 
 does not look darker than many a Portuguese or Bra- 
 zilian I have seen. He married, when he was twenty, 
 an Indian wife, but she took ill and diel, he told me ; 
 anrl then he fell in love with his present wife, of whom 
 he seems to think a great deal. 
 
 We now ran between a succession of wooded islands, 
 with the distant shore to the north and east seen beyond 
 them, till at length we appeared to be entering a long 
 narrow gulf, when, on the left, were seen on the shore a 
 number of white spots. 
 
 "There is mv village!" said George, somewhat 
 
 my 
 
182 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 proudly. " We call it Little Current. I go ashore there, 
 and must wish you good-byl^" I shook hands then, 
 in case I should miss him in the hurry of landing. The 
 white spots were the birch-bark covered wigwams of his 
 tbllowers, and the seeming gulf was the passage of the 
 Little Current. We soon threw our hawsers on shore 
 at a wooded point, while, with shouts and cries, a party 
 of Indians rushed down to secure them. The point was 
 partly cleared of trees, and on it were piled up a number 
 of cords of wood ready for the steamer. Above it rose a 
 wooded height, on which George told me he should build 
 his house; and close to the water, a little way on, were 
 six wigw.'uns, tuid a large shanty intended for his present 
 use. A few acres along the shore were partially cleared, 
 though the black stumps and many fallen logs still re- 
 mained. 
 
 Scarcely were we moored, when an extraordinary 
 figure came hurrying out of the forest towards us with 
 loud halloos and shrieks or shouts of laugliter. lie was 
 a very old Indian, with a broad-brimmed hat turned up 
 on one side and stuck full (,f feathers, a coatee and 
 trousers trinnned witJi leather, a leather-belt round his 
 waist, find yellow moccasins on his feet, and a long 
 thick stick in his hand —a complete Indian Edie Ochil- 
 tree he appeared. He was George's grandfather, u 
 prophet, conjuror, medicine-man, and chief of his family. 
 Long white hair straggled from under his hat ; he had'a 
 short white beard ; his features were strongly marked 
 and his eyes intensely bright, with the fire, I susi,cct, of 
 msamty. He continued gesticidating and vociferatincr 
 all the time we were there. His death is daily expectecC 
 but ho. app(.ared to me full of life. Wlien'he departs 
 George will succeed him as chief. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 183 
 
 The rest of the population — all George's relatives — 
 were wild-looking, active fellows, and busied themselves 
 energetically in getting the wood on board While this 
 was l)eing done, we landed in a drizzling rj^in, with 
 water-proof boots and sticks in hand, and walked along 
 an Indian path to the village. We first came to a small 
 log-hut, which was being erected for the winter habi- 
 tation of Mrs. George and her brown baby, and close to 
 it was a shanty, their sunmier residence. The latter 
 was a circular-roofed hut, the frame formed of stout 
 saplings, b^nt over and joined at the top, the whole 
 covered with thick layers of glittering white sheets of 
 birch-bark. It was rather square than round, about 
 twelve feet in diameter and seven or eight in height. 
 At each side were wide bed-places like broad benches or 
 ta])les raised from the ground, covered with matting and 
 piles of blankets. The floor was also covered with 
 matting, and several chests, and baskets, and bundles. 
 Cooking utensils and articles of domestic furniture lay 
 about, so that it looked capable of being made tolerably 
 comfortabk^, and we did not, therefore, so very much 
 pity its white mistress. As also, in the winter, she 
 would have a stove in her log-hut and abundance of 
 fuei, she would be far better oft' than thousands of the 
 poor emigrants who arrive towards the fall in Lower 
 Canada. Yet when we saw her, on that dreary day, 
 sitting on the bank, with her town-adapted garments, in 
 a shower of rain, under an umbrella, her baby in the 
 ai-rns of a squaw, she the only white woman for many a 
 niile, she certainly did look a subject for pity ; yet the fact 
 is that George is a very fine fellow and infinitely Jier 
 superior. 
 
 George hjis chosen his settlement with great taste and 
 
 .1 1 
 
 ?! 
 
184 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS- 
 
 judgnient It is on the sliorc of a beautiful little bay, 
 free from the current which rushes hy outside, witli high 
 land rising above it ; while from it are seen a rmmber'of 
 beautifully wooded islands, and the blue-i'idged mountains 
 of La Cloche on the mainland beyond them. A long, 
 narrow island forms the opposite side of the narrow strait, 
 and completely land-lo.^ks and shelters the bay ; while at 
 the point close at hand the water is so deep that our 
 paddle-box jirojected over the shore, while we had many 
 feet of water under tmr keel. He j)urposes to open "a 
 store here, and will find voyageurs, woodcutters, and 
 Indians, his customers. He has engaged, also, to supply 
 the steamer with wood ; and as his ])eo])le are expert 
 fisliermen, and fish swarm in the neighbom-hood, while 
 by salting them he will have a certain market with the 
 tish-dealers who come round on purpose to buy from the 
 Indians, J see a fair prospect of his becoming" a vrealthy 
 man. Near hb shanty was a clearing, witli a fine crop 
 of potatoes growing among the stumps, as also squashes, 
 or pumpkins; some canoes and two Mackinaw boats 
 were hauled up on the beach, with some fishing-nets 
 hung on polos, some spears and paddles lyijig near Siem ; 
 and a little way on were four wigwams, towards which we 
 wound our way among the stumps and fallen trees. 
 They were of a similar conlcjd form to those I have 
 before described, witli frames of eight long poles ; but the 
 biirt which covered them Avas of the sdver birch, and 
 beautifully white. In one was a woman and three 
 children; but though the urchins smiled, they stood 
 sturdily before the curtain to bar our entrance. In 
 another the sole furniture was a travelling criidle, two 
 iron pots, and a few mats. There was a lean-to, with a 
 frame in it for making mats, and a very neat one on it 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 185 
 
 ncai-Iy finished. There was a small trunk of a tree 
 hollowed out at the end to form a mortar, and a Ion« 
 pestle with a poimder ut each end, for pounding corn ; 
 dso a frame for hanging the ears of com to, and a variety 
 of other articles of domestic use of the most primitive 
 construction. Across a stream wa.. another wicrwam so 
 romantically situated on a hill In a little nook of 'the 
 forest, that we lon-ed to reach it. We found a locr 
 thrown across the stream, and another log with notches 
 cut in It to enahle us to descend tlie bank. We got 
 across, and 1 took a sketch from the spot, but the heavy 
 drizzle soon compollod us to retreat shipward. 
 
 On our way back we found friend Briggs endea- 
 vouring to convince an Indian that he ought to have • 
 made the door of the log-hut on the side next the hiU 
 and not to open towards tlie lake. He held forth ener- 
 getically in Englisli, while the Indian listened attentively 
 and rej,hed, with equal eagerness, hi a long si>eech u, the 
 choicest Chippewa ; and then they walked romid the 
 liouse together, and Briggs pointed move vehemently 
 and spoke still louder. Next, in his turn, the Indian 
 nodded, and gninted, and threw abo^.t his arms, and 
 harangued at Briggs, who seemed to be paying the 
 greatest attention to iiis view of the case, till we could no 
 longer restrain our laughter, in wliich even Briggs good- 
 naturedly joined as he accompanied us on board. 
 
 " Those fellows have no woms," he observed. " They 
 might once have been handy chaps at scalping; but 
 when you come to teach tliem the arts of civilised life 
 they are worse than babes. Now, after all t said 1 
 don t suj)pose that copi>er-faced gentleman will follow 
 my advice." 
 
 In a heavy rain Georp-e onrl l,;^. „.,*f< 
 
 and liis wife and child 
 
 were 
 
186 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 put on shore, on that wet leafy bank, not even in sight of 
 their shanty ; and the last wo saAV of the wliite woman, 
 she was seated on her box among a group of !)lanket-clad 
 squaws. One, a gentle-faced girl, had taken her infant, 
 which a number of little brown children were pressing 
 round to examine; while George and his men were 
 slioving tlie steamer off the bank with long jwles, yelling 
 and laughing, and some of them calling out in broken 
 English, nmch to the merriment of the rest, « Go way ! 
 Go way! Goot byi! Mek hest /" — the old prophet all the 
 time waving his wand, and prophesying and shrieking 
 out most unearthly farewells. A lighthouse is shortly to 
 be built at the entrance of this pas^-^ge, which, though 
 narrow, is deep and free of dangers. George began 
 his settlement about a year ago, and, considering his 
 means, hsis done well. I shall always be anxious to hear 
 of its progress. 
 
 Continuing our course we passed between a number 
 of small islands, having the Great Manatoulin on our 
 left, and the long, though not very high, range of the La 
 Cloche Mountains on our riglit. They are so called from 
 the fact of a rock found among them giving out, when 
 struck, the sound of a bell. In fine weather the voyage 
 would have been intei-esting, ]>ut it was bitterly cold, 
 damp, and dreary ; the wind Iiowled, and the rain ever 
 and anon came down in torrents: so that our chief 
 resource for amusement was to sit round the stove, and 
 listen to the conversation of our rough companions, pick- 
 ing up such information as we could draw from them. 
 They were chiefly miners bound for the Bruce or Lake 
 Superior Mines, backwoodsmen, log-cutters, fishemien, 
 or fish-pedlars, carpenters, or other artisans or petty 
 tradesmen ; but they were mostly honest, good-natured. 
 

 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 187 
 
 civil feUows, and we infinitely preferred theb- society 
 to that of many we had befbr(3 encountered. They put 
 many persons to shame who plume themselves on their 
 civilisation by their moderation in eating ; and I observed 
 that having satisfied their hunger with the first dish 
 placed before them, they never thought of helpmg them- 
 selves to any other. One fish-trader landed a number of 
 barrels at an Indian village, to be filled with the fish 
 caught and salted by the inhabitants. Barrels were also 
 left at other places to be called for on his return. This 
 rough man was a good pioneer of civiHsation. In the 
 same way the steamer, by her consumption of wood, 
 mducos the Indians to chop it down to supply her. 
 Then she takes their fish and their mats, the canoes thev 
 bmld, and other manufactures, to a better market thaJi 
 they could otherwise find, and brings them blankets and 
 printed cotton from Manchester, and iron-pots from 
 Bmmngham ; and the despised Indian may thus claim 
 some r3cognition even from the hand of the disciples of 
 tlie Manchester school. 
 
 Wood is sold throughout Canada by the cord. A 
 cord is a pile of chopped logs of a size to enter a 
 steamer's furnace, and is eight feet long and foui- feet in 
 height and depth. A cord here costs four dollars and a 
 quarter. A white man in the neighbourhood used to 
 sui)i)ly tne steamer, but he cheated the Indians he 
 empbyed, so they wisely left him in tlie lurch. 
 
 Some of the canoes belonging to the Great Mana- 
 touim are thirty feet long, carrying twenty-five persons, 
 all paddlmg together. They go as far as Owen's Sound, 
 but seldom venture out of sight of land towards the 
 centre of the lake. The price varies from three dollars 
 to twenty. The one we were in, which was about thirteen 
 
188 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 iKi 
 
 feet long, would have cost about eight dollars, and an 
 expert workman miglit have built it in a week after 
 he had collected his materials. 
 
 Entering the saloon while the second dinner was 
 going forward, I saw two blanket-coated Indians, and a 
 squaw of the wild*' / aspect, seated at table in company 
 with several white men, and using their knives and forks 
 with the greatest propriety. The squaws use their 
 blankets as cloaks. They keep them very clean, wash- 
 ing them constantly on a flat, sloping stone, on which 
 they beat them, letting them glide gently and slowly 
 backwards and forwards in the water. 
 
 The purser gave me an account of the young Eng- 
 lishwomau who became the Avife of a half-caste Indian, 
 one of the men exhibited as a Red chieftain hi Catlin's 
 exhibition in London. Poor, poor gu-1! little did she 
 dream of the sad fate awaiting her, or of the melancholy 
 contrast betAveen the li^e her romantic imagination had 
 pictured and the reality. She came through the lake in 
 a steamer, and had a piano and a variety of elegant 
 furniture on board He described her as a fine, hand- 
 some, intelligent person. Siie sang and i)layed well: 
 indeed, her great delight was music, and it was her sad 
 and only solace when she reached, not as she expected 
 the rustic palace of the great Red chief, but the miserable 
 shanty of the rough half-caste carpenter, her husband, to 
 instruct the young squaws in such music as they were 
 capable of learning. What we then heard respecting 
 the poor girl deeply interested us in her fate, and when 
 we reached the Sault St. Marie, we made all the in- 
 quiries about her in our power. She had then rested 
 from all her troubles for nearly two years ; and should 
 these pages ever meet the eyes of her relatives, it may be 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. IfiQ 
 
 a consolation to them to know that, infatuated as she 
 was, she proved herself a virtuous, high-minded, and 
 devoted woman, striving even to the verv last, when all 
 feeling akm to love must have fled her' bosom, to en- 
 lighten the spiritual being of the man who had so deeplv 
 wronged her. ^ ^ 
 
 The wind continuing to bio v hard, and the weather 
 bomg dark and rainy, greatly to my satisfaction it was 
 deemed prudent to bring up for the night under shelter; 
 and to obtain it we ran, towards the evening, into the 
 most curious and romantic little woodland-surrounded 
 bay ,t has ever been my lot to see. The entrance is 
 narrow, with one or two turns, so as completely to shut 
 out the rest of the lake; and then suddenly we found 
 ourselves within a complete circle of tall trees, so closely 
 packed that not a glimpse of light was to be seen between 
 them. It was called Gore Harbour, from having been 
 eiitered by the Kaloolah's predecessor, the Gore steamer, 
 he water is forty feet deep close to the banks, so that 
 she used to be moored fast to the trees. Blowino- hard 
 as It w;w outside, the water was here as smooth as glass, 
 though every now and then an inquisitive eddy would 
 hnd Its way in, and run like a cat's paw over the surface. 
 VV itii a bright sun shining on the blue waters, when 
 the unnumbered hues of autumn have tmted the leaves. 
 It must appear an amphitlieatre of most fairy-like 
 beauty. The boat went away with some of the pas- 
 sengers to endeavour to kill some wild fowl, the only 
 inhabitants of the place which made their appearance, 
 lo us It seemed little short of sacrilege to disturb the 
 silent tranquUlity of the spot. 
 
 Towards dusk the wind went down, but our fresh- 
 water navigators were afraid of tein]>ting the dangers of 
 
 B-SVJI 
 
 J, 
 
 ■ 
 
 5 , 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 ^ ' 
 
 ■ 
 
 \ ■ 
 
 ■ 
 
 k 
 
 ■ 
 
 ? " 
 
 ■ 
 
 % " 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 
 
190 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINOB. 
 
 tlie voyage across to the Bruce Mines in the dark ; so, 
 ill perfect accordance with our wishes, the good ship 
 Kaloolah — as by an excess of courtesy she might have 
 been callcu — hiy quietly at anchor during the night 
 
 As she neither blew up nor went down, we certainly 
 benefited by her peculiar qualities; for we thus saw 
 several interesting spots which, had she been more sea- 
 worthy, we should have missed. Our voyage was more 
 like that of the early navigators than those performed 
 generally in the nineteenth century. I asked the old 
 Scotch master how he liked floating about in a craft 
 without a mast and an engine which threatened dislo- 
 cation. 
 
 " 'Deed, no very weel ; but ye ken if she was ony 
 Ijetter craft I wadna likely be master." 
 
 Honest Sandy's answer was humble, but true. Since 
 the Kaloolah had the honour of bearing Briggs and his 
 fortunes, and our humble selves, she has undergone, I 
 hear, a thorough repair and refitting, and is consequently 
 equal to any boat probably to be found on those waters. 
 Her name reminds me to recommend my readers, if they 
 have not perused the adventures of the fair Kaloolali and 
 Jonathan Romer by Dr. Mayo, forthwith to purchase it 
 for a shilling on their next railway jouniey ; and much 
 do I pity their taste if they do not find it a most delectable 
 and laugh-inspiring history. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 I 
 
 We were to have left our anchorage at early rlawn ; but, 
 as the owner ingenuously informed me, the master and 
 the engineer, and even Luis the steward, overslept 
 themselves, and thus it had been some time broad 
 daylight before there was anybody up to light the fires— 
 an account somewhat pleasantly sug^^estive that it was 
 not the custom of the ship to keep a watch on board. 
 Truly, according to nautical notions, this inlaiid navi- 
 gation is queer work. 
 
 " It's too bad— it's too bad, sir," observed Briggs. 
 " Why, sir, we might all have been blown up out of our 
 beds sky-high, and not have found it out till we were 
 hanging like clothes to dry among the trees yonde)\ 
 If Fm ever caught again on board this precious craft, say 
 I'm a Dutchman." "^ 
 
 When we got outside, we found it raining in torrents, 
 and blowing almost as hai'd as ever from the north-east. 
 On went tlie uncouth monster, rolling and scrambling, 
 and shaking her life out with her engines jumping ; her 
 whole frame quivering, and her bulkheads and windows 
 creaking and rattlmg, offering a very strong contrast to 
 
 ii 
 
192 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINQg, 
 
 the fair and beautiful African princess from whom slie 
 
 takes her name. Every now and then a window would 
 
 blow in, and Luis had to hasten t.) mend it, as the rain 
 
 found its way through the upper deck; or a door would 
 
 burst open, and it was so cold withal that wo were fain 
 
 to sit, as we did yesterday, round the stove, with our 
 
 faces roasting and our backs icin^r. Outside, with no 
 
 land to be seen, - dark, louring sky, leaden waters 
 
 topped by white foam, formed a picture of a wintry s,.a 
 
 far from attractive. We were told that we were mensly 
 
 feeling an equuioctial gale, and that it will blow itself out 
 
 in three days ; but a Job's comforter in the circle asserted 
 
 that he had known such gales last three weeks. We 
 
 devoutly hoped that he might never find another of so 
 
 j)ersevering a character. 
 
 At about one o'clock we reached the Brr ,e Mines, on 
 the north shore of Lake Hui-on, at no great distance 
 from the mouth of th.- River St, Marie, which connects 
 that lake with Lake Superior, l^he region, frou) beini. 
 rocky and bare of trees, is wild and desolate ; but the 
 mmes have already collected a number of iidiabitants, 
 and upwards of twenty cottages of stone and plank, and 
 a large smelting-house, greeted our eyes whei-e we ex- 
 pected to find scarcely a human habitation. While some 
 oxen and provisions were being landed for the winter 
 store of the uihahitjmts, clothing myself hi waterproofs, 
 I nui along a wooden pier, and onwards fbr five minutes, 
 to the nearest shafts. At one of them two wvsi were 
 managing a coppc^r bucket, which, rais-.i Ly tw > horses 
 and a large wheel at a distance, came up each time full 
 of the finest ore. A little way off the ore crops out so 
 near the groimd that no shaft is necessarv. I saw a vein 
 bemg cut into from the surface. Fillhig my pockets witli 
 
WBUTKRf WANDEIUNOS. [83 
 
 .pc-imem, I f„||,.„ed the cmr,. of a little railway by 
 h,ch .he ore ,, eo„v„y«l to the water, and got on bc,.ra 
 
 the steamer ,|i,st before she started. 
 
 The Bruce Mh.es were diseovered about sii yean, 
 ago, and wetx- ™ ealled iu e„„,pli„e„t to Lord ill 
 Governor-General of tho Canadas. Three ves,el» ha e 
 "«1 u. the ,aer where we stop,x,l. and have «,"„• 
 
 h.nce dn-ect to Swansea Many others have translnW 
 
 ler carpus at Quebec. A large proportion o re 
 Foduee ,s sold at Boston for „,„ti ,j, 'b.,ilers. T e 
 Jeei^r the shafts are sunk the richer the^re is Ja tl. 
 
 ofl. An Lnghsh company, also, I understood were com- 
 .".■ncmg to work one several miles to the east of ti.e 
 B uce Mutes. Indeed, front what I could W,, the 
 whole of that region on the northern shore of Lalte 
 Huroa, e::te,iding almost round Lake Superior, is abound- 
 mg m nuneral wealth, awaiting energy, science, and 
 capital, to win it tor the benefit of maa 
 
 <!, t "•'" IV "™ ""''■■' "''"'''''•'* "' '" "'» ""»"■» "f the 
 
 bt Mane Kiver, or rather strait, for it is but a connect- 
 
 n.g link l«tween the two great lakes. The entrance is 
 
 ull of islands composed of rocks, many of a considerable 
 
 ught, and covered with waving trees often bending over 
 
 |.e deep eddying waters below. The rain ceased at 
 
 noes and the sun shone forth, lighting up the scene 
 
 nith a brilliancy which made us note it as infinitelv 
 
 rT'"'J.i'" 'T'"'^^"^ "'^"'y 'o the much-talked-,;f 
 Lake of tlie Thousand Islands in the St Lawrence. As 
 2 »Jv»i.ce<l fantastically shaped hills appeared before 
 u . and to our right, with a long, low lino of trees in 
 *e foregrmuid, was seen, among a range of broken 
 te.ghte, a beautiful lake; and a little farther on, (rZ 
 
 » OLt I, 
 
 O 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 ■!■ 
 
194 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 out of the forest beneath the liills on the British side, 
 peeped forth a, succession of Indian haljitationa, the 
 varied fohage of the woods and the tints of the wigwams, 
 the shanties, and huts, combining form a richness of 
 colouring we had seldom or never before seen. On our 
 left, which was the American side, we passed, at a 
 French location, a pretty cottage, with a deep verandah 
 full of smiling children. They waved their hands, and 
 seemed highly delighted at seeing a venerable, gentle- 
 manly-looking French priest, who came on board at the 
 Bruce Mines. Several Indians we passed, in their canoes 
 or on the shore, saluted him respectfully and affection- 
 ately. Indeed, he seemed a man of manners so wiiming 
 that he might easily gain the hearts of all he meets in 
 that wild region, where courteousness, from its rarity, 
 is so nmch more valued. He told me that there 
 are about five hundred Indians scattered in and about 
 the Sault St. Marie, but many of them have mucli 
 French blood in their veins. In the evening, the weather 
 becoming fine, we could walk on the forecastle, and 
 enjoy the beautiful views which each turn of the river 
 presented to our eyes: trees, and rocks, and hills, and 
 islands, and water, and Indian huts an<l wigwams, in 
 various combinations, forming the pictures. Altogether 
 this was by far the prettiest scenery we have met with 
 smce we came to Canada •, nor need it make the Ame- 
 ricans jealous, for half of it belongs to them. 
 
 The Sault de St. Marie, or the rapids (literally the 
 Leaps) of St. Marie, are situated at the point where the 
 waters of Lake Superior find that outlet whi(,'h ultimately, 
 through Lakes Huron, St. Clair, Erie, Ontario, and tlif 
 St. Lawrence, carries them into the distant Atlantic. 
 On the south shore, in the territory of the United States, 
 
WESTEILV WANDERINGS. 195 
 
 States and Canada, who go tliZTl • , '^''^ ""' 
 
 Opposite to it is a considerabJe outno.t nf fi xr j , 
 % Co.pa„,, and there al»o st „t ^ , Rrf "? t" ' 
 toi-y a snhstantial stone-house built hi '"' 
 
 gentleman some fifty year;!^^ f ^f """"■'"■'^'"S 
 
 fcajed, the outhouses tumbled I,v ,1', ""' 
 
 Louse itself .-emained unoeouZltl ; ,' ""'■''>' 
 
 -n,,,,industH„„3,littlei:iripi nTL^fe^itr 
 
 Canadian wife, who oi,en.^t ;. "" "vname, with a 
 
 had been advsed tolh „' ™.''f' ' '"^ '^"'^ -« 
 
 courleoiw and intellicrent ..entleman ! *'"'"'''• ^ ""-.V 
 official dignity i„ the'nhce i 7 V ''T'*'"" "" "'" 
 "■ako u|, the s,u , „f t 'T t '"' "*" '"''"<^^'"=* 
 
 The^LT r"."*-' '^"'■'^ "" "■" »PI"-»aehed the " Soo " 
 
 } wild and gloomy a,>,».-aranee. Above then, wa, the 
 wide watery expanse of the somewhat n.vsterioj I ,1 ! 
 V™r, w„h distant blue hills linhig its'sho I „ ' L 
 -.th an almost untro.1 wilderness of forest, ext.l 
 
 i h 
 
 I 
 
196 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 far 
 
 away to uuki 
 
 the 
 
 blackened 
 
 nown regions; 
 branchl ;h for many miles, the result of a raging fire; 
 but there was a relief to the excessive dreariness of the 
 prospect in the neat white-washeu houses and little 
 palisaded fort yclept Brudy on the American side, and 
 more than all in the welcome sight of friend Pirn's com- 
 fortable hostel rie. 
 
 On the American side a large steamer lay near the 
 quay; and as wo looked up the watery hill, we could 
 see anf.ther above the rapids letting ofi' her steam, having 
 just come in from the mining regions of Lake Superior. 
 Passing close to the American shore and the entrance of 
 the new canal, then lately commenced, Ave shot close to 
 the rapids across to the British side, and brought up at 
 a wooden pier near tlie Hudson's Bay Company's post 
 Here Pirn, the lajidlord of the Stone-house Hotel, took 
 charge of us ; and not having his boat in readiness, we 
 embarked in one full of fish-barrels, and pulled by several 
 wild-looking half-ca^te Indians. Thus, seated on the casks 
 like a boat-load of young Bacchuses, we were ferried oft' 
 to a landing-place near the hotel : and, in a few minutes, 
 found ourselves comfortably seated before a blazing tire 
 m a neat little parlour, with all sorts of nick-nacks and 
 books s(«attered about,~sofas, arm-chairs, and footstools. 
 
 Having seen chat our bedroom was also habitable, 
 we were speedily seated at a \A-ell-(!overed supi)er-table, 
 with a magnificent white-fish as one of the chief dishes. 
 We tasted it with the consideration due to its noveltv 
 and rtq)uted merits, and pronounced it the most delicious 
 fresh-water fisli we had ever eaten, not excepting the 
 trout, — at least for a coi.tinuahce. One may enjoy trout 
 every day for a week, but after that one would desire 
 a change, whereas the delicate-flavoured, tender, yet 
 
WESTKItN WANDERIJfQS. 197 
 
 firm wl,ite-fi,h, may bo eaten every day while he U in 
 season, without woaryi,.g the ,«late, if fcs "j wUl tl^! 
 sc,e„ce bestowed on him by the aetivch ndtrMan- 
 P.ms coolc, and the bride of our friend Luirhc kL' 
 loolah's steward. The white-fish had somJw at the 
 
 i^rj::;.'^""'^ ^^ •■^ " ^'^ "-^ o-.'/ « no; 
 
 After supper we returned to the parlour, and voted it 
 
 gent f<llo,v-travellers; the engineer, and a stoat, burlv 
 rongh-l„okn,g, ut good-ten.pered and commu .e2e 
 young man, who was dubbed "Captain" by Pi„,'s 
 .use oM. A. first I thought he mnst'comman'd Zl 
 loke-trader. but us .gnorance of afl^airs nautical eonvineed 
 me was .mstaken. I could not fancy him even a 
 m.ht,a-man, but ut last discovered that he was a m^int 
 «P a,n, that ,s, the chief of a gang of miners,- tbTv^j" 
 man I wanted to meet; so I forthwith set ,0 work ,0 
 x^raet all the ore of information his experience would 
 Jield. I g,ve the produce of my kbours almost in the 
 unaduterated form I received it, and as I rougldy no ed 
 It at the moment in my journal. ' 
 
 w.th an explonng party round the whole coast of Lake 
 
 «ndei ,t, and some under a tent, where there was ground 
 
 mto he mtonor, where the rocks gave signs of mineral 
 vealth, returning to prosecute their voyage. He as- 
 
 rtt^J:!i;!^.^T^'^--^^^^^ 
 
 that he caught cold tlie first nidit he si 
 
 (ipt in a bed. 
 
 I 
 
198 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 (I suggested it might have been a damp one.) The wliole 
 eastern coast of Lake Superior, which belongs to the 
 United States, from its northern point at tiie River St. 
 Marie opposite Gros Cap tt) Fond du Lac, is full of the 
 richest veins of iron and copper ore, and of native copper. 
 The most northern American mine is at Carp River, 
 whence the purest iron ore is produced. It is melted 
 into bars, and then shipped off to the " Soo." To show 
 its purity, a horse-shoe was hammered out of a piece of 
 ore, rough as it was won from the mine. There are 
 copper-mines at Copper Harbour, Eagle River, and 
 there are several on the banks of the Ontonagan River. 
 Some appear to be complete hills of copper, from the 
 sides of which tlie co})per may be wrenched off with 
 pickaxes and crowbars. There are rapids in the river, 
 and a bar at its mouth, so that the copper thus easily 
 won has to be brouglit down at some risk in boats and 
 embarked outside on board the steamers, thus fiivL.ir a 
 considerable advantage to the Bruce Mines, from which 
 it is shij)ped into sailing vessels at little cost and no risk. 
 There are three paddle-wheel steamers, and four 
 screw or propellers, as they are called, on Lake Superior. 
 The f)addle-wheel vessels are of considerable size; and 
 having been built on Lake Erie, or somewhere in the 
 south, have all been carried over the land for a distance 
 of upwards of a mile to avoid the rapids, and launched 
 again on the lake. They go as far south as La P^inte, 
 and we proposed making a trip in one of them. 
 
 The whole United States coast is very bold and 
 rocky ; and there are few, or indeed no crood harbours, 
 and even the tolerable ones are far apart, so that the 
 casualties among the shipping are very serious. Until 
 within the last few years, except a reniott; fur-trader's 
 
': If- 
 
 WESTERN AVANDERINOS. I99 
 
 post « habitation, of civilised men were to be found 
 ou tiie shore, of that vast inland sea; now, sLrthe 
 nnneslhave spolcen of have been oi-e.led, tClat 
 si^rung up at each of them, with hotels an? a nl 
 
 tThrliirr""'"'"'''''™ '" '^■■-"™' ^'^w - 
 
 ': ' '.,' ''"»'' "'""■<•■ " '■'!»»% rich in mineral weilth ; 
 but e thcr trom want of enterprise and capital among h 
 Cana-hans, or perhaps from there having an abundance 
 empio ent efewhere for both, few Lisfactory e" 
 plorations have been made. ^ 
 
 ^ By the by Iheard a very j„,t excuse for any de- 
 hcences ,„ ,he Gmadians when comparing th™ rth 
 7 ■"■« '■'"r; , Tl- people of the Unit rf Sta™ s a e 
 at home, backed by the unrivalled resources of a va^^ 
 tcrntor, and a mighty repuWic ; whereas the Can!d a's 
 are but the mhabitant, of a colony, till lately bu 'aX 
 apprecated by the mother-country, n.any of thcrbul 
 newly arnved, with all their capital and energies o 
 ecess, y employed in founding homes for themseWe h. 
 Ae.r adopted country. Compa,-e, also, the population f 
 Canada w.th that of the (Jnited States, and, in'proportio 
 the,r numbers, truly I ,hi„k they should not 'be ac- 
 cusid of havmg progressed at a slower rate than th» 
 An,er,ca„s That they might have done more, wMc n 
 .derable advantage to themselves than they have per- 
 fc.rn,ed ,s very possible, especially in this very rcioHf 
 wluch am writing. They nnght have explored k 
 covered, and worked mines which doubtlessly exist • thev 
 ™.gl.t, could, and should have cut a canal th „ug Br til 
 gmund to connect Lakes Superior and Huron 'and hey 
 "ght have established extensive and lucrativ fisheril 
 
 ha, 
 
 ve 
 
 they done, while their iit-ighbours 
 
 are work 
 
 ing 
 
200 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 m 
 
 numerous rich mines, are cutting a most important canal 
 to connect the two lakes through tlieir own territijry, and 
 are the chief purchtisers of the fish caught in tliese waters. 
 
 No sooner does a young American find himself pos- 
 sessed of a little knowledge of geology, a little money, 
 and a little time to spare, and health and strength, than 
 he joins with others enjoying a similar renuinerative 
 capital, and sets off to chance it at the mineral regions. 
 If the party find a mine, it is very possible they may 
 make their fortunes ; if they fail, they return home, 
 having made a pleasant tour, not much the worse in 
 pock(!t, and probably the better in health. By such 
 parties mtjst of the American mines have been dis- 
 covered. 
 
 The neglect of the Canadian (iovernment in forming 
 the canal is a sore subject with all the British acquainted 
 with this region. The ground was actually surveyed, 
 and found more practicable than that on the American 
 side. Why it was not done seems a mystery. The 
 l^ow(n' Canadian party are accused of throwing obstacles 
 in the way of the work through jealousy at the advan- 
 tages it would bring to the Upper Province, but that 1 
 should scarcely think possible. It is far more probable 
 that the neglect arose altogether from ignorance of or 
 indifference to the important advantages the unde taking 
 would have secxu*ed to the country at large. What 
 nourishes the limbs, must surely benefit the mouth as 
 well as the rest of the body. 
 
 The population on the British side, and a large pro- 
 portion of that on the American, are half-castes, the off- 
 spring of Inciians and French Canadian voyageurs, and 
 are a degenerate, dissolute, ill-conditioned set They 
 wox'k when driven Ijv necessity to find food ; 1.)ut as 
 
IVESTEUN WAXDEEING9. 201 
 
 IlK'V can generally obtain mod wajr,., th„v „„ 
 
 half their time in ;,«„,„,.! Uo^ZfZZZ^ 
 
 course, to this rule. e-^^ptions, o< 
 
 VVe Leora „,■ , i„^,^,„^ ^,_^^_^^^_^ ^^ 
 
 the feoo, a pure Indian woman, the widow of a iea 
 
 veil educated, uid have all maiTiod wliite men of mod 
 
 taning .n socety, mostly mi„i,.er, of the Gos J ■ Z' 
 
 bel,eve, ,,, the well-known and talented mi, J,^ ' 2]' 
 
 Ind,a„ supcrintendant, Mr. Schoolcraft Th X^ 
 
 CSS hves ,„ a con.fortable, well-furnished loZ Z 
 though now of great age, retains all her facuWri; Ml 
 .>f We and spirits, and takes great pleasure ^Z^ 
 and ,n hearmg what is going on In the wor d fe 
 manners are d.gnified and courteous, and worthy of tt 
 
 .gh rank she holds an.ong her p.,,.le. ^It strte 2 
 
 hn hand was a wiute man: as a daughter, she would 
 
 imhans I. d-Frenchmen, who abound here are generally 
 we are told, not only degenerate in mind, hut in p ly^;,' 
 
 The following account of the shores of Lake Superior 
 was wn ten by n,y friend Mr. L„gan, the eminent X 
 g«t and h««l of the Cieolog„.al Survey of C^a t 
 whom I am indebted for n.ueh valuable inform;;ro:f;i 
 
 prese„ft\old' T "'T' "'' ''"''' ^"l'™»^ "' «»«'-'J 
 « en._a bold and rocky coast, diversified in the charac- 
 ter oi.ts scenery m accordance with the distribution of 
 
 Lu;Tl'"r'' '""™"'""^ Cliils and eminence: 
 
 u 
 
 iights varj-ing from 300 to 1300 feet, dose 
 
202 
 
 WE8TERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 upon its margin, and this vl(3eply indented in some places 
 with extensive bays, and in others presenting extensive 
 clusters of islands, is, in a nmltitude of j)laces, carved out 
 into well-sheltered coves and inlets, affording inimmor- 
 ahle harbours of a safe and -commodious character, 
 destined greatly to facilitate whatever commerce may 
 hereafter be established on the lake, whether in the 
 produce of its mines or its fisheries. Tlie timber of the 
 district does not .^ecm to promise much encouragement to 
 traffic ; it is not of the size nor of the kinds most esteemed 
 in traffic, though there is nmcli useful wood capable of 
 being rendered available for mining or house-building 
 purposes, as well as for fuel. Ilard-wood is scarce, red 
 pine not often seen, and white pine not abundant. The 
 trees most common are spruce, balsam-fir, white biich, 
 and yjoplar, with cedar in moist places. On the imme- 
 diate coast, many of the hills are nearly denuded of trees, 
 particularly where granite and gneiss prevail. The hills 
 composed of trap are better clothed; but it is in the 
 trappean valleys and on the surface underlaid by sand- 
 stone, which are usually fiat, that tlie largest growth is 
 met with. It is chiefly in these localities, also, and at the 
 mouths of the princii)al rivers, that is to be found what- 
 ever land may be fit for cultivation; and, although of 
 this, in comparison to the area of the district, the extent 
 cannot be called great, nor such as even less remotely 
 situated would tempt settlement, sutHcient would pro- 
 bably be found to supply many of the wants of a mining 
 population, should the metalliferous minerrls of the region 
 be found in sufficient abundance to be worked with 
 profit. 
 
 '■' Several considerable streams fall into the lake, the 
 chief of which are the Kainfuiiti([uia, the Neepigon, the 
 
some places 
 ig extensive 
 , carved out 
 ig inimmor- 
 i character, 
 imerce may 
 ;tlier in the 
 imbor of the 
 iragement to 
 ost esteemed 
 1 capable of 
 iiise-building 
 s scarce, red 
 ndant. The 
 white biich, 
 n the iiume- 
 uled of trees, 
 I. The hills 
 it is in the 
 aid by sand- 
 «t growth is 
 50, and at the 
 found what- 
 altliough of 
 ct, the extent 
 less remotely 
 , would pro- 
 s of a minhig 
 1 of the region 
 worked with 
 
 the lake, the 
 Neepigon, the 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 Pic, the Michipicoten, -md the Montreal. Tl 
 
 flow 
 
 on the north, and the other two 
 
 203 
 
 ic first three 
 on the east side ; 
 
 ] ^1 , , , -„..v.i twu uii rne east side* 
 
 and the whole taking their origin in the height of land 
 separatn^g the waters of Hudson Bay from those of the 
 bt. Lawrence, may pass through 100 to 200 miles of 
 coimtry be^re yielding their tribute to the grand head 
 reservoir of the latter, which, with a nm of 500 lea. c^ 
 com,.ises an area of 32,000 square miles, its greatest' 
 length being 300 miles, its greatest breadth 140. Its 
 greatest depth is supposed to be 1200 feet, which would 
 make Its bottom 603 feet below, while its surface is 597 
 feet above the level of the sea; and its mean depth beini 
 tak.. at 600 feet, would give about 4000 cubii miltof 
 
 "The frosts of winter are not of sufficientlv lonff 
 duration to cool, nor the he.ts of summer to warm, this 
 great body ot water U, the temperature of the sm-round- 
 mg s^irface; and the lake, in consequence, considerably 
 modifies the temi^erature of the country on its banks, 
 winch IS neither so low in the one season, nor so high in 
 he other, as it is borh to the east and to the west. In 
 he imddle of the lake, on a calm day of sunshine on the 
 7th ot July, it surprised me much to find that the tem- 
 perature of the water at ^he surface was no more than 
 38 Fahr. lor this fact, which was ascertained by 
 repeated trials, it appears difficult to account, even allow- 
 ing a degree or two for inaccuracy in the construction of 
 the thermometer: as it is known that water attains its 
 gi-eatest density at 39^°, and hence it might be expected 
 hu the body of the lake having once attained such a 
 density, the stratum of particles at the snrfiice would 
 maintain its place, and be readily either heated or cooled 
 liut whatever might have been the cause, a consequence 
 
204 
 
 WESTERN WANDEIUNGS. 
 
 was that the teinf)erature of the atmosphere above the 
 lake was no more than 51°, while in tlie interior of the 
 fountry, it may j)robal)ly liave been l)etween 70° and 80° 
 or more. 
 
 "The result of such differences is the great pre- 
 valence of fogs on the lake, the vapour brought in warm 
 currents of air from the interior land Upcoming con- 
 densed over the cool water of the surface. These fbcrs, 
 us was to be expected, appeared to diminish in frequency 
 as tlie summer i)assod away; but it is probable they 
 would increase again in winter by a reverse of the pro- 
 cess, the lake giving the vapour, and the laud t]u> 
 condensing curi'ents of air."* 
 
 Extraot from Logan's " Geological Survey of Canada." 1847. 
 
ire above tlie 
 Interior of tlio 
 \ 70° aiid 80^ 
 
 le great pre- 
 ught in warm 
 ecoming con- 
 These fbijs, 
 I in frequency 
 probable they 
 ?e of the pro- 
 the land the 
 
 [/'anacla." 1847. 
 
 SCOOP FIHIUNO 
 
 CHAl'TER XI. 
 
 I HAVE ever found my anticipations of evil le„ ft-e 
 .iu«ntl.v realised than those of eon.in,, gj ,-„ ^1 
 o great and s^all W. had pre„a«L„ Id. | 
 a >.to.„,y, ,.an,y ,iay, f„, „|,i^H ^,^, ^^ 
 
 -en,„g gave certain p-onn-s., i„,^,l „(■ ,, ," 
 
 ;«^a,.tdul the day continuing splendid to its close 
 rhose who professed to nnderstand the eceentricit "rf 
 the weather, said that it would continue fine 
 
206 
 
 WESTERN WANDKllINttS. 
 
 After broakfiist, wo embarked in our landlord's flat- 
 hottoined boat, and, engagin^r a sidky Englishman to pull, 
 we crossed over to the American side of the river. We 
 had to keep up the stream some? way, an<l then to dart 
 across, to be as short a time as p{)ssible in the current. 
 Jiecause I made a remark t<j our crew for bumping us 
 purj)()Sfly against the pier, to show his indep«!ndence, he 
 walked oti'and left us to row back by ourselves. 
 
 Tiie American fortress, called Fijrt Brady, is to the 
 east of the town, on the water's edge. It is merely a 
 collection of barracks, offices, quarti-rs, and store-houses, 
 surrounded by a high white-washed stockade, looking as 
 if the tall branchless stems of some burnt forest had fallen 
 into the ranks, and been whitened over as a reward fbi 
 their good conduct. It is in the style of the old border 
 fortifications, intended to guard against any sudden attack 
 of Indians. 
 
 This is the most northern point of the United States ; 
 a station in no way desired by her military officers, who 
 are so unfortunate as to have to remain here during the 
 five months of winter. A company of infantry are now, 
 I believe, the only troof»s stationed in the fort. The 
 o.^-jers, the first soldiers we have seen, are dressed and look 
 like Frenchmen, in green full short surtouts and long thin 
 [)eaked shades to tlieir caps. We met some of them who 
 were, as T believe is gwierally the case with the officers 
 of the United States' army, pleasing, gentleuiiuily men. 
 Their costume, if not so martinet-like, was fiir more 
 serviceable, healthful, and comfortable, than the Bi-itiah 
 defenders of their country are doomed to wear to the 
 outrage of connnon sense and humanity. The rank and 
 file had certainly not a soldier-like appearance ; they are 
 mostly Irish, Germans, or Dutch. Very few native-born 
 
WESVEHN WANDEULVGS. 
 
 207 
 
 Amoncans wUl enlist in tl,e .v.mlar ..rvice, Tl.e 
 d,sc.p ine IS stnct an.l the pay less than tl.cv can got by 
 any other work; and those warlike youths \vho vvant a 
 itth. hghtuig are pretty certain to fin.l work to their 
 taste under the hanr.er of the lone Star in Mexican 
 wars, S3.npath.n.. ot.t-hreak., Cuban expeditions, o 
 «mular creditable TUidertakin^s. 
 
 A short time ago, ,urn^ disturbances an.ong the 
 nd.ans on the ake Superior shores being approhe.ded, 
 con.pany of Hntish tr<.ops were sent up to the Engb'sh 
 Soo to keep them ,n order. The men were stati^ncni 
 ere lor some tm.e without .ny occupation; not liking 
 their cpaarte.^ probably, and hearing that liberty, 
 equality and fraternity, were the order of the d-iv 
 across the bord..-, or more probably that thev could ^iet 
 good wages and plenty of liquor, several of" them, l^ke 
 recreants, deserted their colours and imprudently took 
 up ^.e.r quarters ijifancn^d security in the AnLican 
 
 veie on he most nmmatc terms, and the former feeliug 
 how he should w,sh to be treated under similar circun! 
 stances gave his friend a hint where his men had stowed 
 themselves away, intimating that he would not interfere 
 With any ,:^ans lie might form for their recapture. 4c. 
 
 Tot? ^?-''"*" —.' ^"^'"^ ^^^^'^' ^'-^^ -^i «'--^g 
 
 •t juity of his men with stout sticks, pulled across ihe 
 river as soon as it was dark, surrounded the house where 
 he deserters were carousing, dragged them out, and 
 before any sympathisers could come to their rescue (had 
 anj Americans been disposed to interfere), got them into 
 ^ue boats, and returned with tliem in triumph to tlieir 
 
 TTl'% "'"^'*^''' ""^ ^^"^^^' ^'-^'"^ ^« the ears of tiie 
 
 United States' Government, and was made tlic subject of 
 
 ) I 
 
 i 
 
208 
 
 WESTEKN WANDERINGS. 
 
 mucl) diplomatic correspondence; but, I believe, ulti- 
 mately both ofHcers got much credit, as I think thev 
 deserved, fur the spirited manner in which thej acted. 
 
 The town of the Sault St. Marie is composed almost 
 entirely of fraine-buildijigs neatly whitewashed. Van- 
 Anden's large hotel is built entirely of wood. Brick 
 chinmeys, t?ven, are not required, as iron stoves with iron 
 fmmels alone are used. We landed close to the eastern 
 entranct^ of the Huron Canal. Men were busily at work 
 with j)ickaxe and shovel *, and big cranes were lifting the 
 mud and gl•a^■el they dug up, or lowering huge bl«.»cks of 
 granite to form the locks ; while stone-masons and car- 
 penters, with chisels and saws, were fashioning the mate- 
 rials to be eniploycd in the work. A number of plaui, 
 boarded frame-houses formed a long line built for the 
 use of the labourers. A large proportion of these is 
 Dutch ; and it is hoped when the work is done they will 
 remain in the place, as they make good settlers. 
 
 Pim, who was our cicerone, gave us this and many 
 other bits of information, regri iting that the many bene- 
 fits acci'uing from the undertaking were not to be reaped 
 on the British side. We walked about three-quarters 
 of a mile along a caj)ital plank road, smooth as a floor 
 to the portage (the landing-place) on Lake Superior. 
 
 The canal will be abtmt a mile long, as it debouches 
 on Lake Superior a little to the left of the old portage; 
 but on that side the line was merely marked out, no 
 cutting having been commenced. The Americans do 
 not understand blasting i-ocks, and the difficulty of find- 
 ing labourers who do had caused some delay. It is an 
 awkw:ml operation to perform in a bungling way. 
 
 The contractors had engaged to complete the canal 
 by July 1854 ; but as not more than a third of tlie work 
 
WESTEBN WANDEKINUS. jOS 
 
 was then done, and that had taken two year, ,^at 
 doubts were entertained as to their oower of ?^ 
 
 ing their undertaking. '^ "* accomplish- 
 
 We examined th^ tramway by wln'eh the Sam Ward 
 a large pa<ldle-wheel st«u„er, was conveyed ^Zii^",' 
 over the portage from Lake Huron toTl.% ""'' 
 n. ground is ,«rfect,y level, but stmtt w^ a tXIh 
 of engmeenng skill. The expense, however, v ry 1 "iv 
 equalled her value. The success led to tw^ „th« We 
 ^eam^r. bomg carried over, besides several smalW ^ 
 
 In another year, probably, by means of the canal 
 the waters of Lake Superior will be crowded wilh s^'^ 
 l.mg, ,md flourishing towns will soon afterwards be fS 
 sprmgmg up along its now silent shores. 
 
 We sat down on a stout wooden pier at the portaxre 
 
 itT rt'" "■*'' "™™' s™"'™- »'^hin;2 
 
 attrachve-lookmg trout. The water was so clear bdow 
 us^«.at the fishermen could see the flsh they ^^Ih^'t 
 
 "ait O , "'" r™" ""= »"'^ "'<- '■■'king 
 pound had the siK,ts much yellower than those on a., 
 Enghsh trout There was not much beautv in tTe 
 scenery here, but it was interesting a-s being the" junction 
 o two m,gl.ty lake. The sky over-head^was LJZ 
 blue, and the water under our feet beautifully clear. On 
 he s,dc of Lake Suprior was a deep bay 'vith wooded 
 P»nts; on the other, the white, fo^mung, tumbling, 
 bubb mg water rushed between two cypress-covere! 
 islands mto the St Marie. 
 
 On a sheltered nook among the trees on the British 
 : tt,!Mr.'5.•"T•^ '^.'•^ -- "■" I-'-l-^ence, 
 
 wrecked last year, and onlj lately got 
 
 VOL. I 
 
 up; and being 
 
210 
 
 WESTERN AVANDERINCJS. 
 
 in debt, was placed under English protection to avoid 
 seizure. The two Governments would do well to come 
 to some understandino; to prevent such tricks. 
 
 The Sault St. Marie is upwards of four hundred miles 
 distant from any town of size, the nearest being Detroit ; 
 wliije tlie next, Cliioago, is six hundred miles. In 
 winter the only communication is by means of wild 
 Indian tracks through the forest While the steamers 
 are running, liowever, it is well supplied with all the 
 necessaries, as well as some of the luxuries of life ; and 
 we found several fruit-shops with a ,^lons, water-melons, 
 |)eaches, and grapes, as well as bakers and confectioners. 
 
 We returned to a ca])ital dinner at Pirn's, of delicate 
 white-fisli, tendt>r roast uuitton, mashed potatoes, roast 
 chickens, and other delicacies, very well cooked. Three 
 Englishmen and a very gentlemanly American officer 
 dined at table. They assured us that we should find tlie 
 island of Mackinaw at the entrance of Lake Michigan 
 well worthy of a visit. It contains a curious natural 
 arch in a rock of great height and depth thrown over the 
 sea, so that a ship may sail under it. A number of 
 Indians reside there. A strong fo 'tress stands on it, 
 garrisoned when the British ho] 1 sway in the land during 
 the wars with the Indians by a strong force. 
 
 The princi})al scenes in " Wacousta/' a novel of con- 
 siderable interest, are laid there; so that from what 
 we heard we became anxious to visit it. We had at 
 tlus time a very interesting trip in contemi)lation. Wt> 
 projwseti stoi>ping first at Mackinaw, ami, taking the 
 following steamer, to proceed down Lake Michigan to 
 the new and wonderfully flourishing city of Chicago, 
 calling at Milwaukie and several recently established set- 
 tlements. From Chicago we contemplated going across 
 
 ■^i:ij^< 
 
WESTEUN WAXDEKINCiS. 211 
 
 t rT '7 ^"77 '" *^"''""'' '' '>""■' 'I-'"""" Iron. 
 tl.at nver, whore wo ,si,„„l,i fi,„, « sta,„„.n .hioh w, u 
 carry us .,p t„ St Paul's ; .houoo we iutoudod v h 
 he uu^uufioont Fall» „f St. Anthony. At Chica,,o w^ 
 l.o,.od to moot ,o.„« (Honds who were on a »hooti 1 
 e.xcur.,,„ ,„ ,0 neighbo„rho,Kl,-thoir ,;a„,e, the doh'" « 
 pa,„o.l,on alutost if not ,,uite, e,,u,d to <hJ«r„u „ W 
 
 1 r..u e. In our oxi«ctat,on,s of its sublime expanse we 
 
 ■','' '"'"-'S'nal uthabitants of tl,e order Fera- 
 not a buftalo should we have seen. 
 
 We nu-i,d,t, however, have witnessed a prairie fire 
 wluch an aecjuatntanee of ours did about th, t tin.e o t' 
 u he ratlway carriage „r a sta«e. He described iZ 
 t™ly magn,fiee„u The raging «a,„es flew along Z 
 ground „u a hue parallel with his road, darting hi.d. „, 
 ...to, the^tr, and illutninating the whole heatens%i:,': 
 
 Rrturning to Chicago, we had some uotiou „i' strikiu,; 
 
 »uth to vtstt the famcl Mam.uoth Caves of Kentucky 
 
 VVe heard so tnucl. of their wonders, that our L^ 
 
 behoKl thejr subterranean porches, and halt, and 
 
 sters, ajtd lakes, and strea-us, and tnountains and 
 
 ^afleys, and eyeless inhabitants, was sufficient to put our 
 
 hod.es m ,„ot,o„ to attain that object had no. the fiUes 
 
 iH-eu unpropitions. Had we not gone to Kentucky w.^ 
 
 be s ate of M,eb,gan to Defroit, and from thence gone 
 ilirect into C.-uiada. ^ 
 
 We had before this a somewhat vague plan of going 
 
212 
 
 "WESTERN WAXDEH'NGS. 
 
 by steamer tlirmigh Lake Superior to Fond du Lac, 
 which will be found at tlio southern extremity of that 
 mighty sheet of water ; and thence to proceed (k>wn the 
 St. Croix j-iver to St. VnuVf. The plan looked most 
 temptingly easy of execution on tlie map ; but when we 
 came to make inquiries as to the best mode of proceeding, 
 we found that bii'ch-bark canoes, with not over -trust- 
 worthy Indians as guides, were the only means of transit ; 
 thai many days must be spent on rivers, and many nights 
 in wigwams, or under the canopy of heaven amid the 
 wild-beast-haunted forest, before we could hope to reach 
 St. Paul's, with a tolerable probability of catching marsh- 
 fevers or agues ; and that though sportsmen might find 
 the excursion amusing, and ac^complish it without mar- 
 tyrdom, it was far too difficult an undertaking for a lady 
 to hazard. 
 
 That scheme was, therefore, quickly abandoned ; and 
 we now awaited the arrival of the Garden City steamer 
 to proceed to Chicago, and to follow up one of the other 
 plans I have sketched out. In case they should fail, we 
 hiM^ yet another in contemplation. Our purpose wa.s, 
 having watched the waters of Lake Superior Inirsting 
 from their boundfii'ies over the Sault St. Marie, to follow 
 them through Lakes Huron, St. Clair, and Erie, till 
 we should see them taking their terrific plunge over the 
 lofty precipices of Niagara, and then aftenvards to float 
 down with them more calndy to Quebec. This was the 
 plan we were ultimately compelled to adopt; and it is 
 one I strongly recommend to all >vho would see, tmd, 
 moreover, feel Niagara aright But to my present story. 
 There is an abundance of excellent fishing in the 
 rapids, as well above as below them. Trout, white-fish, 
 
WESTERN WANDEBING8. 213 
 
 herrings, or a fish so called, maskinonge, and many 
 others are caught in great numbers and salted down to 
 be sent to the eastern markets. 
 
 The Indian population live ehieflj on fish, which they 
 catch, not only in summer, but in winter through holes 
 in the ice. They catch the white-fish in the very rapids 
 themselves during the evening and night, with what is 
 culled a scoop-net Two men go in each canoe ; one sits 
 aft to paddle and steer, the other stands in the bow, 
 fm-mshed with a long pole and a net something like a 
 land.ng-net, three and a half feet in circumfert^ice and 
 SIX feet deep. He knows exactly the holes under the 
 rocks where the fish are wont to lie ; so, m-ging his light 
 canoe up the rapid with his lor.g pole, as soon as he 
 reaches the desired spot he lays it down, and seizing his 
 net with a rapid whirl over his head, he scoops out the 
 hole, as It were, and seldom fails to bring a fish to the 
 surface I hey also spear the nsh in the usual way on 
 the rapids. "^ 
 
 Since our arrival, I had been looking with longing 
 eyes towards the mysterious north, unex},lored, as f^ 
 Tl '^^^J^^^*^' V any of the white inhabitants of the 
 boo. So after dinner, with waterproof boots on my 
 feet and a stout oak-stick in my hand cut from a wood 
 in the Highlands, I set off due north on an expedition 
 of discovery. Striking across a field, I found my way, 
 by following a cattle-track, through a dense wood ; when 
 asconduig a hill, I came suddenly on an old, plank-built 
 chapel. The door was open. The building had not even 
 been completed. Sitting down on a stump, I sketched 
 the romantic scene- the little church— the wild forest 
 -the lofty Gros Cap hill, and Lake Superior in the 
 
214 
 
 WESTEKN AVANDERINGS. 
 
 disfaiice. Ai-ound me were fallen trees, black stumps, 
 and stunted nprouts ; below, were tne foaming, roaring 
 rapids, the Hudson's Bay jM^st ; and across the water tlie 
 wlnfe-washed Arnorican town; while turning round, I 
 could see the blue river winding its tortuous way towards 
 the far-distant Huron, among broken hills and dju-k 
 forests, with here and there the cottages of the Fron<di 
 settlers peej>ing out from among them. Again moving, 1 
 pushed my way through a thick wood up to my ankles 
 in water, with certain unpleasant recollections of rattle- 
 snakes sj)oken of in the vicinity, and at last emerged into 
 what was truly a scene of the wildest and most nielan- 
 choly desolation. For six miles on either side, far as the 
 eye could reach, lay spread out betbre me a biunt forest, 
 —not a tree had escaped. A few tall, gaunt, black, and 
 branchless stems still stood defying time and the elements, 
 —sad memorials of the once green and joyous wood ; but 
 the .oTound was mostly covered with short stumps, fallen 
 logs, and numerous stems of saplings ; the scorchmg 
 flames had not even spared them— all were alike charred 
 and blackened. The only gre«.'n visible was the rank 
 grass, which, with an unwholesome growth, had sprunw 
 up among the burnt timber. The saplings, from having 
 been green when the fire reached them, slight as they 
 were, had escaped total destruction at the moment ; but 
 they, too, were branchless and dying. I walked on, 
 taking note of the shape the tops of some of the tall.^r 
 trees had assumed, so that I might steer my course by 
 them on my return. Tn maiiy places the ground was 
 very swampy ; a)id having to avoid tJieni, and to thread 
 ray way uriong the stumps and falk>n logs, I speeilily 
 got out cf my dirent line. At last I came to a deep 
 
WESTEUN WANDERINGS. 
 
 215 
 
 ravine with a stream at the bottom; but having in vain 
 triocl to discover a way across it, I thought it would be 
 wise to retrace my stoj>s. 
 
 As I turned round, the confusion of black stems at 
 once convinced me that, should the sun, now my only 
 sure guide, sink beneatli the horizon ]>efore I (!ould reach 
 the chapel, I miglit chance to miss my way and have to 
 pass a night most unsatisfactorily in this barren region. 
 I therefore made the best of my way towards the river 
 in time to stop for a few minutes before 1 plunged into 
 the wood to contemplate this strangely wild and "desolate 
 scene. No churchyard, no battle-field, no city of tombs, 
 could create feelings more melancholy and" oppressive 
 than did this burnt forest. It seemed the abode of the 
 very spirit of sadness and regret ; and as the gloom came 
 on, the blackened trees shaped themselves into gaunt 
 spectres stalking over the ground —fit denizens of such 
 a locality. I could endure the depressing influence no 
 longer, and hurried away ; sphushing through the wood, 
 heedless of rattlesjialces or adders, nor stopped to medi- 
 tate again till 1 found myself under the shelter of friend 
 Pirn's hospitable rot)f. I had, however, on my way up 
 taken a look through my telescope of the ground over 
 which the British (;anal ouglit to have been cut ; and 
 as far us that glance enabled me to judge, there are no 
 engineering difficulties to be encountered. 
 
 liriggs, who had taken up his abode on the American 
 side, ignorant of the comforts to be fomid at Pim's hotel, 
 declared that the whole Canadian Parliament ought to be 
 forthwith sent up, chained two and two, from' opposite 
 sides of the house, to form the canal before the Americans 
 could finish theirs. 
 
 The chapel, I found, was built by the Rev. Mr. 
 
216 
 
 WESTERN WANDEUING8. 
 
 M' Murray, partly for the benefit of the few Protestant 
 whites m the neighbourhood, and partly for tlmt of the 
 Indians, tor wJioni a mission was then about being estab- 
 lished He, however, was appointed to some other sphere 
 ot usefulness, and tlie mission w,is withdrawn before the 
 building was completed ; and it was a matter of regret 
 that no one on the spot seemed to trouble themselves 
 further about the matter, I must, however, urge on the 
 Bishop of Toronto the importance, if he cannot station 
 a minister of the Gospel here, at all events of sending 
 one ui> occasionally in the summer, when the journev 
 can be performed with the greatest ease, and of finisliinff 
 the almost-completed church. He would find a conm-e- 
 gation not only on the British side, but numbers wcmid 
 come from the American, where there is no Episcopal 
 chuiTh ; and it seems to me where souls are to be fed 
 It matters not whence they come. There is a Jesuit 
 mission at the '' Soo;" indeed the Romanists have it all 
 their own way, and keep the i^rench Canadians, half- 
 cast^, and Indians, completely under their government 
 
 J his stone house, we hear, was built forty years ago 
 by Captain Arinytage, whose son is the proprietor. He 
 established a fur-trade with the Indians by giving them 
 good value l^r their skins, cut down man/a^es !f^Z 
 fenced them in with stout rails, built on the river a little 
 mil , which only ground a bushel of wheat, a farm-house 
 and many outhouses now tumbling down. The stone 
 Knise IS a square building with a porch, and four, large 
 ooms on each story, now di^.ided into smaller ones; it is 
 urmshed as comfortably as necessary, and never was 
 
 t Ted i"r '": '"^^^"'^^ "' ^"^^"^^^•>'' "- 1-- - 
 
 More ef iPrt' "'"^ "^ ^"^'^^^ ^" America. 
 More especially do I remember with tender regard 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 217 
 
 Mary's delicious souffle pancakes; but to Pim's deep 
 regret that rogue Luis carried oft' the near-haiided Mary 
 .0 make pa^icakes at an inn they were elsewhere abom 
 to esfcibhsh. Besides excellent fishing there are snir^ 
 woodcock, and wild fowl, ready to be shot ; lZ:Zl 
 u.teresting scenery down tho river to be sketched ; Indiar. 
 w.gwa,ns to be v.Ued, and Indian curiosities to be Lught ; 
 u tup to Gros (.^ap n, a ca^oe, and a descent down the 
 n.p.ds to be accomplished; excursions to be made alontr 
 the east shores of Lake Superior to the mines in ! 
 steamer or ahmg the north coast in a canoe, with abun- 
 aance of boatmg on the river; but of roads there are 
 none nor means that I could discover of penetrating into 
 the mterior on horseback. . 
 
 A hard frost, making us fancy that winter was 
 commg, ushered in the morning of the 29th September 
 I never have seen elsewhere the flakes of frost so large 
 as those winch covered every piece of timber about the 
 house. The air was truly pure and racing, and a wai-m 
 sun soon dissipated the whiteness. 
 
 The most interesting trip from hence is to Gros Cap. 
 1 he best way to perform it is in a largo canoe, manne.l 
 by hve Indians, each of whom demands a dollar and a 
 half or two dollars as jmy. Send them by dawn above 
 the rajnds to wait at tlie Portage on the American side, 
 and follow as soon as possible by land, so as to have all 
 the day for the excursion. It takes seven or eight hours 
 to get there, but loss to return. Gros Cap is a loftv, 
 precipitous, tree-covered promontory, seven hundred f^et 
 ingh, commanding an extensive view over Lake Superior 
 and along its eastern and northern shores. On retuniinf.' 
 the exciting thing is to shoot the rapids, an operation,' 
 with stoady boatmen, to be performed without any risk 
 
218 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 We had intemW f-oinfer tliere; but with the weutho,- 
 nncerhun ,« it was, the days wen. too short to allow us 
 to perfo™ the trip without danger of being ko,,t out 
 onger than we thought advisable. I ,„ust, thero- 
 
 de^ribe ™ " '" """" '""'" '''"^™''"' "'="■""'''* "• 
 Cauoche, an half-caste Indian, well known to Pim i, 
 one of the best men to aet as captain. The men ask 
 high »..ge., .as they can all m.a):e several .lollars a-day 
 by fishmg. About six miles of the distance is throu-h a 
 narrow pass,^e, .and then nine miles across a wide bay in 
 he open ,.ke. Should a sea get up, it may be neccsLy 
 to sku't along U,e shores of the bay, and so much prolong 
 the voyage. Frad, however, as the canoe may ap,«ar 
 for so long a tnp, with a good crew, there is no datiler 
 provided the passengers do not attempt to stand up or tJ 
 press a sharp-pointed stick against the bottom. 
 
 We dined .at the prin.itive hour of one, in company 
 mth the mmer, the cooper who works in the old mill 
 manufactunng fish- barrels, and one or two shnila 
 characters ; but better-behaved men I do not desire to 
 nteet, bosUes which I was able to draw fro.n them a 
 good d<.l of „.teresth,g information. After dinner, we 
 engaged Canoche to pull Pim's boat, and went u^ to 
 the Hudson s Bay Company's post at the Kapids. 
 
 in a™l,r "'7 "■"' •■' """' "*"'S'^"' f^""-. »J 
 n appeanmce far more white than red, his Indian 
 
 Uooa showtng o,dy in the shape of his nose and eyZ 
 Yet ho ,s more than half-Indian, his mother being a 
 squaw and hts father h.alf-caste; but though he married a 
 a half-caste wife, his children .are all flir. He 1 
 Enghsh perfectly, a. well as French .and Chippewa. ' 
 i he post IS a neat wliite-washed edifice, partly built of 
 
Wi:STEU\ WANDKIIIXGS. 
 
 219 
 
 \o^ and partly frame, and surrounded l.y a paling.. 
 More ax the interior, it wovd.l be a stockade. Tlu lo^. 
 buiJdmg IS i,ifi„itoly the most eomfortabh., and whc^ 
 |.lauko( over looks very neat, and most eftectually keeps 
 out botJi cold and heat. 
 
 All the dvvellinrrs at the Ifudson Ikv Company's 
 posts are of log; but their stores are frame-buildings 
 Mr. Margraves, the snptnntendant, an old oHicer of the 
 Company, with cordial hospita'itv invited us into the 
 iiouse, where he and his wife treated us with great kind- 
 ness. We spent an hour with them most pleasantly 
 receiving a groat deal of information about the country 
 ^^^o years ago, having to move from York Factory, on 
 Hudsons IJay, to his present post, as the shortest ai,d 
 least fatiguing route, he sent his wife and children to 
 England direct; thence they ag.'.in crossed the Atlantic 
 ti New York, and came, via. Buffalo, to the « Soo." He, 
 meantime, eml>arked in a canoe with seven Indians, takinc' 
 a course through Lake Winnepeg, and after descending 
 a number of rivers a.id traversing various chains of 
 lakes, emerged at length near Fort William, on Lake 
 Superior. The Company emj^loy the half-castes about 
 liore as messengers and carriers to their various stations 
 and posts in the interior. They are generally not so 
 strong as either whites or Indians, and have a tendency 
 to consumption. A large in'oportion of the children of 
 the Company's oflicers sent to England for their educa- 
 tion perish. 
 
 People in England have a very mistiU^en notion of 
 the character of Indians. There are some fine, honour- 
 able, brave fellows ; but Cooper's characters are altocrether 
 niiaginative. Those living close to the ^vhite settlements, 
 thanks, probably, to the instruction thev receive, lie. 
 
220 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 choat, and steal, wlienever opi)<)rtunities offer; those In 
 the inferior are ho,iest and truthful ; hut, according to an 
 l^.uropemi'8 notion, arrant cowards. They never think of 
 a 8tand-u,. fight, or of exi)osing themselves to any danger 
 they can avoid. There is not, in fact, a warlike tribe on 
 this side tile Ilocky Mountains. Mr. Hargraves has been 
 among fiercer tribes, who sport bears'-(;law collars, and re- 
 joice over an enemy's scalp. « Ah," he continued, in his 
 warm, genial Scotch ; " but even with them there's no 
 80 much valour as ye would think ; no, no. They'll be 
 as proud if they can get the scalp off an auld wife as if 
 It was a first-rate warrior, and go about dancing, and 
 yelling, and boasting, like frantic fools." They all 
 munler their enemies if they can catch them unawares 
 but run away from them unless certain of victory 
 Ihe greater number on this side the Rocky Mountains 
 dress m blanket-coats, given by Government, and use 
 fire-arms. Those on the plains use the bow and arrow 
 to hunt the buffalo, and are braver and fonder of fighting 
 rhey, however, go about almost naked, and paint their 
 bodies. 
 
 ^ The Indians employed by the Company have an 
 ingenious way of catching fish. They form across the 
 soft bed of a river a sort of gridiron, with sides to it of 
 sticks and thin poles, and then drive the fish down the 
 stream into it, picking them out by tliousands. This is 
 done late in the autunm, as soon as the frost sets in. 
 ihoy are then frozen and piled up hke bricks in the 
 Company's stores for winter consumption. All their 
 meat is kept frozen. 
 
 There are numerous settlements of half-castes through- 
 out the Company's territories. The largest is on the Red 
 Kiver, where Dr. Anderson was sent as Bishop. They are 
 
WESTBKX WAXDEIilNGS. 
 
 221 
 
 suiKjnor to those I have before described, and were thev 
 not thus brought within the pale of civilisation by being 
 collected together, encouragtMl in the pursuit of ayri- 
 c-ulture, and by having clergyn.ei,, niissior.aries, and 
 8c loolnmsters sent among then., w.mid prove a some- 
 uhut djujgerous ingredient in tlie social bod v. We shall 
 hear some day of this hyj^erborean population, of whom 
 tho world has taken so little cognizance, forming a state 
 and dcmandmg a constitution. Even when a bishop was 
 a})pomted, jK-opIe wondered for what he coidd be required 
 in so remote a region. 
 
 From the ImUans we fell to talk of natural history 
 The black bear is found near Lake Superior, and in 
 many parts south and west. He is a t.ime, good-natured 
 beast; somewhat of an inquisitive dispositK.n, and fond 
 of maple-sugar and other sweets; but he never attacks 
 the lords of the creation. The gri.zly bear, however, is 
 no respecter of persons, and shows fight on all occasions. 
 Mr. Ilargraves having caught a young one, took it to 
 England; but it grew so big and so fierce on the passage, 
 that the seamen could not apT,.-uacJi it. The sea-life, 
 probably, did not agree with its temper, so it was turned 
 mt. . bacon. He saw one on the sliore near A'ork Factory, 
 and hastening out, it took to the water, when an Indian' 
 with hmi shot it dead. It proved to be one of the largest 
 ever killed, so he sent the skin to the British INluseum 
 He has been thirty years in the Company's service. 
 With kind pohteness he insisted on seeing us to our 
 I)oat, fuid with many a sincere farewell, we parted from 
 him. 
 
 We next steered our course for the rapids, on 
 reaching which, Canoche poled the boat up to a point 
 among the rocks, where the water running with less 
 
222 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 violence, we could remain at rest, while we watched the 
 procc^edings of the scoop-fishermen. Though we lay so 
 quietly in our little nook, we were close to the bubbling, 
 foaming, leaping mass of roaring waters. Near us were 
 some log -huts, where some wild- looking, red -skinned 
 fishermen, and big Indian dogs, were lounging about, 
 among a number of calves, chickens, goats, and chikh-en. 
 It was pleasant to watch the waves, as, rushing over the 
 rapids, they tossed and glanced in the low evening sun. 
 Two steamers at anchor, far above us, looked very strange, 
 as we saw them up this wild watery slope. On'the other 
 side, white frame-houses dotted the landscape ; then there 
 was the modest-looking Fort Brady, with the American 
 flag flying, with a back-ground of low covered banks, 
 with a beautiful sweep of the blue river below us and 
 soft woods beyond. 
 
 In the centre of the picture soon appeared four, five, 
 and then six canoes, two men h -ach, one paddling, the 
 other managing the long prope. ng pole and scoop with 
 its thin, pliant iiandle. The canoes lay floating side by 
 side, till first one, then another, and then altogether, were 
 urged strongly upwards into the midst of the rapids, 
 riding merrily over the riotous waves. Now was the 
 exciting moment; the bow-man, as he stood balanced 
 with wonderful firnmess in his frail bark, laying down 
 his pole and seizing his nets, plunged it deep into the 
 water, and while the canoe fell back to its station, he 
 quickly swung round tlie scoop, and behokl ! on most 
 occasions, a great fish wailop})ed in the loiig net pouch. 
 We saw several fish thus caught of four or five pounds 
 each. The scene was animating and beautiful ; the iatter 
 quality due more to the bright evening light and the 
 glittering waves than to the actual features of the land- 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 223 
 
 'e watched the 
 ugh we lay so 
 > the bubbling. 
 
 Near us were 
 ', red -skinned 
 ungiiig about, 
 , and chilch-en. 
 shing over the 
 ' evening sun. 
 I very strange, 
 
 On the other 
 pe ; then there 
 the American 
 3vered banks, 
 beh)w us and 
 
 red four, five, 
 paddhng, the 
 id scoop with 
 ating side by 
 ogether, were 
 f the rapids, 
 ^ow was the 
 ood balanced 
 laying do-vvn 
 leep into the 
 s station, he 
 >ki ! on most 
 g net pouch. 
 r five pounds 
 id ; the latter 
 ight and tiie 
 of the land- 
 
 scape, as a beaming smile often imparts loveliness to a 
 very ordinary face. For sixpence I became the pos- 
 sessor of two fine white-fish to serve for our supper and 
 breakfast 
 
 Canoche assures us that there is no danger in navi- 
 gating the rapids by people accustomed to "them. He 
 knows only of three people dron ned in them. On one 
 occasion, six Americans put off from the Upper Portage 
 in a large boat, and, unable to n)rmage her, were curried 
 by the current into the midst of the raj^ids, when she was 
 speedily capsized. At first they all clung to the be f ; 
 but three of them, in the hopes of reacliing the shore by 
 swimming, struck off fr<jm her, and were soon sucked 
 under and drowned. Two remamed holding on to her 
 keel and were ultimately picked up ; a third poor fellow, 
 however, was washed off by tlie foaming waves, and 
 sinking, was carried hurriedly down the rapids beneath 
 the waters. Now it happened that a half-caste L.lian, 
 who had not seen the accident, was spearing fish at the 
 foot of the falls, wjien his quick eye detected a dark 
 object, too large for an ordinary white-fish, floating some 
 sixteen feet below the surface. Thinking it sonu; curious 
 monster, he darted his unerring spear at it, when, to his 
 surprise and no little consternation, he brought up not a 
 fish, but the body of a human beirg, speared only, how- 
 ever, through tlie leg of the trousers. TJiongh the body 
 gave no signs of animation, the fishennan fancied there 
 might yet be life in him, and pulling his canoe to the 
 shore, took him instantly to the liouse of a surgeon n(^ar 
 at hand. Means for restoring life Avere at onco resorted 
 to with such success, that the m^arly drowned man at 
 length oi)ened his eyes and finally recovered, hving many 
 
224 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 years afterwards to tel] the tale, showing thereby that a 
 mail may, after all, be the better for bemg run throu^i 
 with a spear. Ha,l, however, the weapon struck him in 
 the body, he would have had a different tale to tell or 
 rather might, most probably, have been unable to tell 
 any tale at all. 
 
; thereby that a 
 ng run through 
 n struck him in 
 t tale to tell, or 
 I unable to tci! 
 
 J3URM F0JIE8T, NEAB SAULT SI. MAlllE. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 On the last day of September, the weather Continued so 
 tlireatemng as to compel us to abandon our intended 
 excursion to the Gros Cap. After breakfast, therefore, 
 not altogether to throw away the time, I engaged a little 
 lialt-caste Canadian to act as my guide in penetrating 
 through the burnt forest into the interior. With water- 
 proof boots on my feet and my trusty Highland oak 
 stick m my hand I sallied forth, gained the wooden 
 church, traversed the region of charred wood, crossed 
 
 VOL. 1. 
 
226 
 
 WE8TEKN WANDERINGS. 
 
 he ravine and the stream at its bottom by scrambhn^on 
 liaiKls and knees alon^. a blackened log/ whereby much 
 of Its sombre tint adhered to them, and again ascendin. 
 found myself on the cor.^nes of a new growth of trees 
 witli the groimd, however, of a nature so swampy, that' 
 It seemed nnpossible to phuigo across it. There wis 
 certamly a path to the right, heading, as my guide told 
 me, to tlie sugar-bush;" but it se-emed marked out more 
 tor the use of alligators and eels than for bipeds, sol 
 dechued pursuing it. Which way to turn I knew not, 
 and yet I was certain that a path to lead me aright into 
 the bush should exist; but the unrestrained rocaush 
 glance m the yoimg monkey's eyes convinced me thlt he 
 was resolved not to take a long walk, and that he had 
 purposely led me tlu-ough the swampy places instead of 
 picking out the dry ground as he migiit have done. 
 
 A sugar-bush is the Canadian te,-,n, be it understood, 
 for a maple forest, and very anxious I was to see one in 
 Its prmi.tive condition just at that time of the year 
 especially when the leaves are beginning to assume thei^ 
 gorgeous livery of red mid jank and many golden hues, 
 and I wanted also to examine the trees which had been 
 tapped to let the rich sap rim forth from which the sugar 
 IS made; but after many attempts, I was obliged to 
 abandon the undertaking and to own myself outwitted 
 by the htih urcliin who pretended to be my guide So 
 Frfect a little imp did ho look, that had I seen him take 
 a hop, skij), and a jmni, across the Rapids to the starrv- 
 bannered land of liberty, 1 should scarcely have be;n 
 surprised. 
 
 As I was wandering about the high ground, looking 
 down on Lake Superior and the foaming waters flowin. 
 from It, I came suddenly upon a solitary tomb -some 
 
 »toJt!iiiiai^«^i^ 
 
! 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 00 J 
 
 hackwoorlsnian's humble grave. It was composed aj)- 
 
 propriately of logs of equal length, each layer three deep, 
 
 p]ax3ed at right angles to the other, so as to form a square.' 
 
 A few tall trees overshadowed it, a few others, hewn down 
 
 with the hatchet, lay about ; the work, it might seem, 
 
 of the mouldering tenant of the spot. Lake Superior,' 
 
 into which the sun, with a warm, red glow, was dipping,' 
 
 when I visited it the following evening, lay beyond it. ^'l 
 
 noted it as a fitting subject for a picture or a poet's pen.* 
 
 On my way back I exammed a snake-lence. It is 
 
 thus formed:— At each end of a long thin log, a short 
 
 piece of timber is placed. The log is then kept down by 
 
 two stakes stuck firnily in the ground, and crossed over 
 
 it. On the fork of these two stakes another log is placed, 
 
 as are also the ends of the logs forming the continuance' 
 
 of the rail at an obtuse angle, from Avhich it gains its 
 
 name of snake-fence. These, agmn, are kept down by 
 
 longer stakes, on the fork of which the upper and heaviest 
 
 tier of logs is placed. 
 
 On my way through the swampy wood, I was furiously 
 assailed by hosts of Hies and midges ; a slight taste, 1 
 suspect, of what one would have to experience in a 
 siunmer ramble through the forest-^A lids of (Canada, 
 and a sure indication of coming rain, which did not fail 
 speedily to follow soon ;.!'ter I got housed. The day 
 before, on going through this wood, I put up a browm"sii 
 snake, very thin, and about five feet long. Fortunately, 
 I did not attack him, and the reptile wriggled away into 
 the bush. On getting to the inn I was told that he was 
 of a very \'enomous character, and most tenacious of life. 
 Pim, I think it was, asserted that our friend Luis, the 
 Italian steward, encountered one of them in the woods, 
 * See vignette to first chapter. 
 
 ! 
 
 ' r- 
 
228 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 when, with his accustomed bravery, he attacked it, and 
 cut the reptile in two. WJiat, however, was his horror, 
 when tlie head i)<)rtion turning round with fiery eyes, 
 made chase after him along the grass ! Human courage 
 could not avail against so ferocious an {mtagonist. Luis 
 fled as fast as his trembling legs would carry him, the 
 snake pursuing full of vengeance dire against the man 
 who had deprived him of his tail. Thus hastening on 
 with pallid countenance and hair on end, the steward 
 was met by a backwoodsman with a gun. Breathless, 
 all he could ejaculate was, «De snake I de snake I" and 
 sunk Minting oii the gi'ound. The man shot the snake 
 and carried Luis to the inn, where Mary tended him till 
 he recovei-ed. For the tnith of the tale I do not vouch, 
 however. 
 
 Pirn informed me that thi« district is forthwith to be 
 formed into a county, that Colonel Prince is coming as 
 chief magistrate or sheriff, and that the land is to be put up 
 for sale. Now, as all the people here are squatters, they 
 will either have to purchase the land on which their huts 
 stand, or quit them. This coTises great dismay among 
 the half-(-aste fishing population, who, not being a saving 
 race, are not likely to possess the necessary purchase- 
 money. Indeed, it would be a disadvantage to the future 
 town if they could, as they possess nearly all the best 
 water-frontage. From its position, this should become 
 a thriving place, as it may be made a depot for the trade 
 with tlie mines, which will probably be opened in the 
 course of a few years along the northern shores of Lake 
 Superior. The ground in the neighbourhood nmst afford 
 good pasturage, judging from the appearance of the cattle 
 which feed on it, but it appears too cold and swampy for 
 agricultural purposes. However, I was told that fair 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 229 
 
 ttacked it, and 
 kvas his horror, 
 ith fiery eyes, 
 'uman courage 
 agonist. Luis 
 carry him, the 
 ainst the man 
 hastening on 
 i, the steward 
 . Breathless, 
 5 snake I" and 
 iliot tlie snake 
 ended him till 
 do not vouch, 
 
 •rthwith to be 
 is coming as 
 3 to be put up 
 ^uatters, they 
 ich their huts 
 ismay among 
 eing a saving 
 ry purchase- 
 to the future 
 " all the best 
 ould become 
 for the trade 
 ened in the 
 ores of Lake 
 . must afford 
 of the cattle 
 swampy for 
 Id that fair 
 
 gi-ovuid for farms is to be found at no great distance, 
 A British canal would have nuicli contributed to tlu? 
 success of a town on the spot, but even with the aid of 
 the canal on the opposite side, it might become a flourish- 
 ing place. 
 
 At present five steamers come up here during the 
 
 week. The Garden City, the finest of them all, should 
 
 leave this on Monday for Chicago, and by lier we intended 
 
 to go ; but from the bad weather or some accident, she 
 
 did not make her a[.pearance. The Kaloolah leaves on 
 
 Tuesday, the Albany on W(.dnesday, tJie Northerner 
 
 (a lu"gh-prt^ssure boat) on Friday, and the Pacific on 
 
 Saturday for Detroit. The stormy weather had, Iioav- 
 
 ever, thrown tliem so entirely out of tl [r usual course, 
 
 that it puzzled us much to know by which to proceed. 
 
 We had no intention of remaining so many days in a 
 
 place possessing so small an amount of interest as the 
 
 " Soo," unable as we were to make excursions from it ; but 
 
 baited with the hopes of seeing the Garden City, we were 
 
 completely entrapped. Fearing to miss her, we did not 
 
 even make an excursion by steamer to one of the 
 
 American mining-stations, which we might, without 
 
 much difficulty, have done, and 1 fancy they are well 
 
 worthy of a visit. 
 
 The weather clearing up one aftenioon, I acting as 
 crew, we [lulled across in Pim's boat to the American 
 " Soo," for the jnirpose of getting some peaches, having 
 purchased some very delicious ones on a former occasion, 
 but none were to be procured, for as they i-ipen only some 
 seven or eight hundi'ed miles off—the supply depends on 
 the arrival of the steamers. We saw also melons, water- 
 melons, and other fruit, Avhich come from a still greater 
 distance, and which, being so unsuitable for food in so 
 
230 
 
 ^VESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 I 
 
 ."J a climate tho medical man l,.,re t«l,l me he con- 
 »ue,.ed ca„.,l ,„uch ill.,... However that may b t 
 
 «J ,„ «,. How, l,y moans „f railways and .L„,i 
 'l.e luxun,., „f „ southern clime, its rich and juicy S 
 may^hej^ought to the door of the distant ^y^J^ 
 
 Our dinner-con.panion, the stout ( Vnish minin,, 
 a,,ta,,, „ an i„.,.|,ig,„,, &,,„„_ ,,„^, j „,,,,^^7™^^ 
 
 a good deal of .nformation out of his huge l,odv. Hav nf 
 
 tiun, m h.s own estnnat.on, like a gentleman. He 
 » »ved me son.e beautiful s,«cime„s of copper ore and 
 
 •» he nught have done had they been of gold. On his 
 "P along the north shore of Lake Superior.l.e discove ^ 
 mmerons and certain indications of 'rich mines. Tle^ 
 
 i.v«.ptio„ of about nine nules, where the rooks rise sheer 
 out of the water He told us how on landing ZfZ 
 he came sudden^- on the bones of a man sti^ oovor^l 
 w „s othes, but that the " varmints " had eaten a fe 
 fl<^b <.ft hnn. II,s canoe, broken to pieces, lay close U, 
 1" "■ He probably ha,l been seized with sonL te s 
 whde p,„, h„, along the coast, and unable to m 3 
 1"= e,moe, had been ca.,t on shore and died of hunger ^ 
 
 hi caught m the lakes, told me that some thousand 
 Ciisks, each weiahimr about !>i)nii„ „ „ '""■"'" 
 
 this distrlof 1j rf? '"'••'"''' """""y sent from 
 
 acmss the portage, and embarked in Mackuiaw lx>at, to 
 be conveyed to the shore near where the fish are t'jeen 
 and where they are cleaned, salted, ™d packed By &; 
 'I'^' largest quantity of the fish ea.gl/are white-fish 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 231 
 
 then come trout, and tlien the hiscious sciscowett. Of 
 these taken, there are two sorts distinguished by the 
 different tints of their pink colour. The cooper affirmed that 
 they are a fresh-water salmon ; hut except in the colour 
 of their flesh, I could discover no similar^t3^ They are 
 most delicious, though very rich when projierly (.-ooked ; 
 hut unless placed before the fire with great care, they 
 are of a nature so oleaginous, that they will melt away 
 till nothing but their bones and skin remain. Many a 
 hungry stranger, in expectation of a rich dinner, has 
 thus been cruelly disappointed, as Avas the furious polka- 
 dancing youth in the dog-days, who, going to get an ice 
 for his somewhat fat, yet fair partner, found, to his 
 sorrow, on his return that she had dwindled into her 
 satin shoes. A pint of oil can be produced from one 
 sciscowett. There are also fresh -water herrings, similar 
 in most respects to those which inhabit the salt occcin. 
 In the spring they are very rich, but at other times dry. 
 There are excellent harbours all along the British coast of 
 Lake Superior fitted for fishing-stations ; but he asserted, 
 what I heard very strongly contradicted, that the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company oppose every attempt made to esta- 
 blish such stations, and that tlieir agents instigate the 
 Indians to destroy the nets, huts, boats, and barrels of 
 the fishermen, and to offer them every other annoyance 
 in their power. My informant, it must be remembered, 
 was a wild backwoodsman. " Aye," he added, " if they 
 had treated me so, I'd have been like to put a rifle- 
 bullet through the head of one of theml" T tried to 
 j)ersuade him that such was not the Christian nor the 
 woridly-wise way of settling a difficidt question, and 
 promised that I would niake his tale known as far as I 
 could. He shook his head as he replied yet unconvinced, 
 
232 
 
 WKST£BN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Well, ,vc 1, ,f I'd a shot two or three on 'em, it wouhl 
 Lave put 'em off fro.n trymf. ,„ehlikc joke, V-ain, 
 
 TZ , ^'. "'*^'' "' "'^ y.-""g man', cold r1 e™ 
 I Wt that ,.■ h,. wa,, „o. already a homicWe, he wol' 
 not scruple to be guilty of mch a„ act. At all events, 
 here can be no doubt that those m.a^^n-flcent inland sea. 
 . fford an abumlance of delicious and wholeson.e food for 
 thousands of h«n,a„ ki,^.,, and that they mav he,.o,„e 
 a scnjrce of wealth to any who have the necessa^v capital 
 and knowldge, and energy, to come and take it." 
 
 ihe hsh are mostly taken in Kill-nets, Uke the onli- 
 nary <lee,«ea net, about thirty fi„hon>s in length, with 
 lo. ds and iioats. They were introduce.1 on the^la^es b, 
 a liraaha,, hshennan, and soon superseded the sein hefoi.. 
 
 Uke i„ hslnng Some are owned by the fishermen them- 
 selves, and others by the .ish-tra,lers, who. however 
 upply the salt to both parties. A good nntny wh 
 nen are employed, ..biefly Americms, but the larger 
 number are haf-eastes. As their chief market is fbt^.l 
 m the States, the boats must all be under the Amorie™, 
 Hag, otherwise then- present tariff wouJd prevent the 
 "nportatum o the fish.- The men live in tents am 
 vgwams on the bea,* while they euro the fish. The 
 bateau.x, which bring up the salt and barrels, return 
 abon every two months with their foil cargoes 
 
 him tLf ;f''«T"''.'T'''™"« ""^ '""P"-' '"drew fron, 
 h.m that the Hndsons li.ay Comp,my had not of late 
 
 attempted lo n,terfere with the fisheries. Thev eertahilv 
 
 however, ap|K.ar to be u, bad odour in tliese regions' 
 
 partly, perhaps, because the ill blood between them and the 
 
 twertt iT;t« '; '''"r.""" '™''"" "™"'™w t^'y '>'■ 
 
 tweeu tlie L nited States auj Canittia was in force. 
 
WESTERN V.'A\DI;:KING8. 
 
 233 
 
 I 'em, it would 
 okes a^'ain, J 
 cold grey eye, 
 ide, he would 
 At all events, 
 mt inland seas 
 )sonie food for 
 may becornt' 
 essary capital, 
 ke it 
 
 like the ortli- 
 length, witli 
 I the lakes b) 
 be sein before 
 »Ic>yed on the 
 lermen them- 
 10, however, 
 many white 
 t the larger 
 rket is found 
 he Americfui 
 prevent the 
 n tents and 
 ? fish. The 
 rels, return 
 rgoes. 
 
 I drew from 
 not of late 
 y certahily, 
 ?se regions, 
 lem and the 
 
 ial treaty be- 
 
 North- West American Company is not forgotten, and partly 
 be(^:iust' the pursuits they encc.urage are not compatible 
 with advancing civilisation. Before its tidf they must 
 inevitably retire, and it is worse than folly if their agents 
 are permitted to oppose it. I believe they have, in a 
 degree, benefited the Indians by encouraging them in 
 the pursuits of partial civilisation, and have done their 
 best to keep from them the; baneful fire-water, whatever 
 might have been their motive for so doing. Perhaps 
 even witliout this means the Red man in the N(»rth would 
 have diminished as rapidly as have those near the Ca- 
 nadian and United States borders. Mr. Harcrraves. 
 indi'cd, insists that the Indian race is not dying out, but 
 that, amalgamating with the white, it will ultimately 
 form a separate ty])e, the red merging in the stronger 
 race of the white. I caimot say that I think facts bear 
 out his theory ; for in the localities I visited where now 
 dwell a few ill-conditioned half-castes, once powerf\d 
 trilies of warlike Indians owned the land. Whither also 
 have gone the people who once roamed through the 
 wide-spi-eading lands now inhabited by the Anglo-Saxon 
 race? Perhaps in the Hudson's Bay Comjumy's ter- 
 ritories the number of half-castes equal that of the pure 
 Indian stock, who found subsistence there before the 
 udvent of the white traders ; but as by all ordinary rules, 
 civilisation should enable a far greater tumibe]- of per- 
 sons to exist in a country than could by possibility do so 
 in a state of barbarism, it is only ])roved that in this case 
 civilisation, rather than amalgamation, has retardi'd the 
 total extinction of the red blood when brouirht in contact 
 with the white man. He had, indeed, before told me 
 that the offspring of the twij were of far weaker constitu- 
 tions than th(.Mr parents ; and such being the case, they are 
 
234 
 
 W ESTF R N W'A \ DERINO fl. 
 
 unlikely. ,„ e,™,„ „,„ ,,„„,„ „^^|_,^, 
 
 ra«. n( tlie <l,irkiT 1,1,k«I. '^ 
 
 The „fiic„,., of ,1,0 f;o,„pany ure. „f c„ur,o. in d„,y 
 
 " M. ,,„lv ,0 wind, th,.v l„.|,„,., and wh„ „,„ „t- 
 
 d. , , ,,lly .,,„,,j<„„l of a ,„„,t r..»,.,,„l,l„ a,„l i„d,Vi. 
 
 ".vlh iu,„„urul,k. ,.la.s „f men, fnm, Sir Georgo Si,n,,su„ 
 
 a ..„mo|«,ly ,H i„ ,|,„.i,| i„,,„„,^,.^ „||„^^,,, ,^ _ 
 
 ™,aot,o„s should I,. „,adc, manifest in tl,c bmad ll. 
 ot day, a, ,t ,, tl,e duly of those charfied with d,e 
 "^-c,,., of the British ,,n,,,ic, of hun„anity, „d of 
 natu,„a l.ononr, ,o take jealous eare that neither a^ 
 betrayed, by watdiins, with lynx-.^yed scrutiny, the pro- 
 oeedmgs of the inonopolirta. ' 
 
 I must now tell a sad tale, the particulars of whi.* 1 
 
 M, ( athn the well-known exhibitor of North An.erican 
 Indmn cunos,t,e», and e.en.plifier of the tnanners an.l 
 custon,s of the people, in his anxiety to o-.ter for tl e 
 amuseu.ent if not instruction, „f tlu- B , ,, " 
 •.otho„«ht_l„n, of collecth,g a ban.l of real live'c lil 
 
 of the gUe, London, and to its most civilised quarter 
 Ro^nt Street tself; where they ntight show t^ 
 n h«l n,ult,tudcs how the R,h1 man h, his nafve wilds 
 d ™x,d h,s war-dauce and sung his war-song, toma- 
 hawk,,! and scalped, tortured and triumphed, over his 
 
 dan e or smoked the calumet of ,«.„., drove his slei.h, 
 
 Ihc Idea was excellent, doubtless, but its execution far 
 
 
WESTERN WANDEUINOS. 
 
 235 
 
 )arentl_y to the 
 
 >urse, in duty 
 10 proceeding's 
 wlio are un- 
 'o and indivi- 
 por^ro Siin})son 
 »nopolii's, or if 
 1 to exist, its 
 IP broad light 
 led with the 
 iiiity, and of 
 t neither are 
 tiny, tlie pro- 
 
 rs of which I 
 persons who 
 me years ago 
 th American 
 naruiers and 
 !;iter for the 
 itish pul)Hc, 
 I Jive Chip- 
 lised portion 
 sed quarter, 
 ow to asto- 
 lative wilds 
 iong, tonia- 
 d, over his 
 danced the 
 ■ liis sleigh, 
 or femilj. 
 ecution fiir 
 
 
 from ensy. An hyena, even of the laughing 3})ecie3, 
 may be caught, if not tamed ; an elephant may be taught 
 to stiuid on his head, and a lion or tiger may be nuide to 
 lie down at their keeper's bidding; but the wild man of 
 the forest, savage though he be, is one of the lords of the 
 creation, and believing in the sweets of liberty, is too 
 waiy to be caught, or, if caught, to be tortured into the 
 hahit^s of civilisation, still less to obey the orders of a 
 white man for such a pittance as he could offer. Of this 
 the indefatigable exhibitor soon became aware, and though 
 he could not bring over a wild chieftain and his band of 
 Red braves, he could with comparative ease tempt any 
 number of tajne Chippewas, or their brown-tinted de- 
 scendants, with magnificent promises of an unlimite<l 
 supply of rum, to follow him round the world, to dance, 
 or sing, or scalp, either in fact or in fiction, whenever he 
 might bid them. The requisite number to perform the 
 scal[i-dance of war, or the fox-jump of peace, were soon 
 collected in the outskirts of the " Soo " itself; but a 
 chieftaui was wanting who might in appearance, if not 
 in deed, give dignity to liis exalted rank. Now, there 
 dwelt at the said town of the « Soo " a fine-looking fellow, 
 a carpenter by trade, of French descent, whose mother, 
 or grandmother rather, was a squaw. Besides French 
 and English he spoke the Chippewa and other Indian 
 dialects, and having been much among them was com- 
 pletely conversant with their habits and customs. He 
 had, too, been employed as interpreter on those occasions 
 when the Indian tribes assemble to receive presents from 
 the Government, as bribes to keep them on their good 
 behaviour. Here was the very man to suit the exhi- 
 bitor's pur|)ose. If not a real chieftain, an unlimited 
 supply of red and yellow ochre, birds' feathers, foxes' 
 
236 
 
 WESTERN WAXDERINGS. 
 
 tails and teetli, deer's skins, beads, and bears' claws, 
 would make him every whit as good as one, besides beinij 
 much bett(>r able to explain to all inquisitive inquirers 
 the customs and habits of the tribe whom he and his 
 companions so admirably represented. An overture was 
 made, the terms were agreed on, the bargain was struck; 
 and Luis Cadotte, laying aside his saw and hanuner! 
 turned his talents, evidently intended for a higher sf>herei 
 towards a new field more suited for their di.si)lay. In' 
 course of time the exhibitor, with his wild Indians and 
 other stage properties, arrived in London; and there, I 
 need not tell how successfully they competed in inte- 
 resting an enlightened public with Bushmen, Siamese 
 twms, Esquimaux, elephants, and the happy family. 
 Luis Cadotte j)layed his part to perfection ; lookincr every 
 mch the chieftain, as he described, in glowing ten-ms, to 
 his admiring audience, the pleasures of a freedom unre- 
 strained by tlie heavy shackles of civilisation, the delights 
 of a wild life in the far-off forests of America, wiiere 
 thousands of brave warriors were reiulv to follow their 
 chief to battle, or to obey his slightest behests. These 
 and immy other tales did he tell, of gallant deeds per- 
 formed, of hairbreadth escapes, of adventures on shining 
 akes and glittering streams, of buffalo-hunts and d-er- 
 huiKs, ot burning forests and blazing prairies ; in truth, 
 not an mcident of which romance-writers have tak-n full 
 advantage . .caped his a])propriate illustration, sketched 
 out for him by the well-practised propric^tor of the 
 exJnbition. Now comes the serious part of my historv. 
 Among the crowd of visitors to the spectaclo was a young 
 lady, the dau;.hter of a wealthy .uid highlv-res],Jctabk^ 
 citizen of London. She was handsome, virtuous, ami- 
 able, and accomplished, as far as a knowledgr. of music 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 237 
 
 i bears' claws, 
 le, besides bein£»- 
 isitive inquirers 
 loni he and liis 
 Ln ovei-ture wjis 
 ain was struck ; 
 and liainuier, 
 I lii^^her sphere, 
 ir display. In 
 ild Indians and 
 1 ; and there, I 
 i])eted in inte- 
 iimen, Siamese 
 hapi)y family. 
 ; looking every 
 )Avino; terms, to 
 freedom unr(>- 
 m, the deliglits 
 merica, where 
 :o follow their 
 t'liests. These 
 mt deeds per- 
 ires on shining 
 mts and deer- 
 I'ies ; in truth, 
 lave taken full 
 ition, sketched 
 rietor of the 
 )f my history. 
 ' was a young 
 ly-res])eetable 
 irtuous, ami- 
 idgo of music 
 
 and languages could make her so, and well read in much 
 elegant literature, es|)eciall)' of Cooper's imri vailed ro- 
 mances. Of an enthusiastic and poetical disposition, her 
 imaguiation [)ictured scenes and circumstances which had 
 no existence except in her own ill-regTilated or disordered 
 mind. With credulous ear slie listened to the tales 
 flowing so glibly from Luis Cadotte's facile tongue. She 
 taught herself at length to believe that lie was himself 
 the heroic chieftain he so artfully descril)ed. Again an 
 again slie went and listened to guileful serpent — the 
 rich blood mantling to her cho<. her eloquent eyes, her 
 breathless attention as he spoke, soon ;5h()^^'e(l him the 
 power he possessed. He inquired, and lieard that she 
 was wealthy, or would possess what to him would be 
 wealth. On this, growing bold, he talked of love and 
 happiness to be culled in the far-off parts of hi;-.; native 
 land. Perhaps he persuaded himself that ho spoke but 
 the truth, and that he really love<l iliQ hapless gii'l. He 
 never told her that he was a chieftain, but she would 
 make him so in spite of liimselfl Her heart was no light 
 or wanton tlnng. It wa*; fonned for iove ; but to love 
 but one, and for once. Fearfid was the stake for which 
 she threw her all. They often met, and with pride and 
 joy (how miserably to be disapjwinted!) she consented to 
 beconje the bride of the supprtsed chieftain, and to accom- 
 pany him to his woodland home across the Atlantic. 
 Her relations and friends in vain endeavoured to j^er- 
 suade her to abandon her mad project. She was firm in 
 her resolution ; shi; had pledged her word to one worthy 
 of her, she said, and would redeem it. It seems strange 
 that all her friends should have failed to detect th(- real 
 character of the man, and should hav<; enTertaincnl with 
 her thr^ preposterous notion, that u proud Red chieftaui 
 
238 
 
 WESTEKN WA2fDEElNG8. 
 
 would consent to como and exhibit J,i,nself before a 
 gaping cromi of white faces. That the exhibitor himself 
 sliould not have warned lior or her friends of the real 
 position of Cadotte speaks little in liis favour ; but that 
 some of the unhai,|.y girl's acquaintance, who, if ignorant 
 hat Cadotte was not what he ai)peared, at all events 
 kmnv st.ffiaently of the life of an Indian to be aware 
 that an Enghsli girl of i-efmed habits could not fail to be 
 miserab^ as the sharer of his wigwam, even should she 
 escape being brought down to the level of the squaws 
 with whom she would have to eonsort, should not have 
 endeavoured, by every means in their power, to open her 
 eyes to the reality of the dreadful condition to which she 
 was reducing herself, was most cniel and unj.ardonable. 
 They could not interfere, she was not a daughter of 
 theirs- she might fancy the life, though the foncy was 
 a strange one; and uttering similar frivolous excuses 
 they allowed, with unmanly cowardice, the misguided 
 victun of credulity to rush to her destiniction. The 
 prcvposed marriage between a handsome English lady and 
 a Ch.pi,ewa chief became the subject of conversation for 
 some days, if not weeks, in London, and did not fail to 
 bring grist to the mill of Mr. Catlin, as numbers crowded 
 o the exhibition to see the distinguished and hapnv 
 bmlegroom elect. Son.e few, with a slight sensation of 
 pity, regrettt^ that a Christian girl was about to marrv 
 a heatlK^; but that he was one Cadotte indignanti; 
 denied, albming that not only was he a Christian, but 'a 
 ^•ue son of holy mother Chnrcl, a pious subject of the 
 i-ope. The poor g.rl s unhappy father, ,>artl)-, like others, 
 deceived, having exhausted all his influence to prevent 
 th<. inauspicions union, gave his reluctant consent, and 
 promised to make some allowance for her supi,ort \t 
 
WESTERN WANDERIXCrS. 
 
 
 239 
 
 length the term for which tlie Indian trocp had been 
 engaged having expired, Cadotte and his bride saUed for 
 the land where his supposed government existed. She 
 took with her her piano and books, and several articles 
 of elegant furniture, an abundant supply of fashionable 
 di-esses, and many luxuries for the toilette. Arriving in 
 tiie St. Lawrence, they proceeded at first to a backwood 
 village on the shores of one of the great lakes. Here the 
 now doubting bride began to inquire when they were to 
 reach the chieftain's country, of which her lord had so 
 eloquently spoken. A shout of brutal laughter was his 
 first reply; the next, the fire-water mounting to his 
 brain, a blow, not once, but often repeated. Then the 
 eyes of the loving, flevoted, and infatuated wonian began 
 to 0}>en, and soon she felt convinced liow grossly she had 
 been deceived. For tw(^ long years she en< lured, un- 
 complainingly, this existence, supporting her husband with 
 the remittances she received from home ; but at length 
 he grew tired of tlie place, and resolved to return to his 
 native village at the Sault St- Marie. Any change to 
 her was welcome. Perliaps even then she expected to 
 fin.i that he was really the chief she had Mipj)osed. Still 
 carrying her piano and furniture she reached tlie village 
 of the " Sault." Here she was taken, in the first instana^, 
 to a miserable log-hut ; but it ajjpears, either from his 
 finding occupation at hk former trade to employ his time, 
 or from his heart softening towards his unh'a[)py wifcs 
 that Cadotte no longer treated her with liis former 
 brutality. Her friends had in the meantime heard of 
 lier miserable condition, and frequently offered to receive 
 her Dack should she desire to return to hw home, but 
 she jK)sitively refused to quit her husband on any terms. 
 With a noble and virtuous spirit, she replied that she had 
 
240 
 
 WESTERN WANDEKINGS. 
 
 I 
 
 become his wife for better or for worse ; that if he was 
 bad, the more was it her duty to remain and endeavour 
 to reform him ; and tfiut if he had deceived her, it was 
 his love for lier had persuaded lii.a to the act, while she 
 confessed that she had deceived herself. She now sought 
 for comfort at the only source where, either in prosperity 
 or affliction, true comfort can bo found; but, alas! no 
 mmister of her own faith was there to give counsel to her 
 distressed heart. But there were priests of Rome, and 
 they soon obtained that mastery ovei- her mind they ever 
 seek to possess. She became a Roman Catholic : throucrh 
 then- aid her husband built a better house, and by their 
 admonitions ceased to ill-treat her. They also enabled 
 hej- to open a school for the children of their faith, which 
 contributed to her support. Her great hope, it was said 
 m thus assunilating lier faith to that of her husband wai 
 to reform him. She believed that she i^erceived the germ 
 of better thmgs within his dark soul, and she trusted to 
 draw them forth, and see them fructify. Was it possible 
 after the deception practised on her that she could still 
 love on? No, the idol she had once adored had pro^ed 
 a hideous monster-her love had fled, and her heart was 
 breakmg. Yet to the last she refused to leave him, with 
 her English home, comfort, and a kind welcome, offered 
 her; her sole earthly desire to see him better prepared 
 for the eternity to which she was herself so rapidlv 
 hastening. And thus she died and slept at last in peai 
 —another of the many examples of woman's folly, and of 
 woman's constancy, mid of severe and bitter punishment 
 for one fault. No sooner was she dead than her prayers 
 seemed answered. Cadotte was inconsolable, and ob 
 tauung leave from his employers for a week, he devoted 
 It to buddmg a tomb over her grave. Here every even- 
 
WESTERN WANDEUIXGS. 
 
 241 
 
 ir It IS said, he goes, and, moaning, prays for her his 
 c .ueltj has dostrojed. From that time he became an 
 altered man. Shunning society, as soon as his daiJv 
 work was done he would retire to his hut, wliere he 
 w..uJd read and meditate half the night throucrh. Thus 
 it is said, he still occupies his time. When we were at 
 the Sault he was engaged on the works of the new canal. 
 ThuH ends my tale. 
 
 The latter i^rtion I heard from an American mer- 
 chant, who had been residing at the Sault and knew 
 Cadotte thoroughly. He said that he was one of the 
 few m whom he had any confidence, that he would come 
 and sit with him for hoims together, and unburden his 
 heart to him ; and that, while confessing numerous faults 
 he most emphatically denied having intentionally de- 
 ceived the English girl, or knowingly tempted her to 
 lier fata 
 
 Nearly every day I spent at the Sault I found mv 
 way up to the chapel, whence I could look down on the 
 rapids and neck of land where the British canal ought to 
 have been; and I own that as I looked I did not feel so 
 proud of my countrymen as I could have wished. For 
 hundreds of miles from the spot there is not a road on 
 tintisli ground ; yet the Americans have Ion., had a 
 good one across their portage, while the British portage 
 IS almost impassable. They have numerous mines at 
 work, and towns springing up, on. the shores of Lake 
 J5uperior ; the Canadians have none. Tliev have seven 
 steamers ploughing its waters ; the Canadians have none, 
 l^^ight or ten steamers under the stars and stripes run 
 between St. Marie and the ports of Detroit, Chicago, and 
 many oth(TS : the Kaloolah is the only one under the 
 British Hag, and she visits the place hut once in the week 
 VOL. I. j^ 
 
242 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 ■ 
 
 The Americans have a thriving town, with a fort and a 
 garrison, two large inns, and other houses of entertain- 
 ment ; our friend Pim is the solo unofficial upholder of 
 the British name across the straits; while Mr. Wilson 
 maintains the dignity of the British empire by represent- 
 ing, hi his single person, the character of Chief Magistrate, 
 Postmaster-General, the Board of Trade, and holding* 
 for what 1 know to the contrary, several other posts of 
 honour, if not of emolument. The Americans, also, have 
 buildings in which different sects worship God; the 
 British have only the little unfinished chapel which, like 
 a good resolution not carried out, stands as a testimony 
 against them. Feeling that it was the duty of any man 
 capable of performing the service of the Church of 
 England to worshif) God in pubhc, I begged our landlord 
 to assemble all he could find on the Sunday morning, 
 hoping to offer uy) prayers with them, and to read "a 
 sermon afterwards ; but though Pim seemed much pleased 
 with the proposal, the result proved the melancholy con- 
 sequences of the habitual neglect of His ordinances from 
 whom all blessings flow. Alas ! when the time arrived, 
 
 excuses alone came. Mr. was unwell, Mrs. P -' 
 
 was dresshig, Mrs. had the baby, Mary was busy 
 
 with the dinner, and so on. I mention the circumstance, 
 not to find tault with the persons concerned in the present 
 instance, but to remark on the effect which the want of 
 God's ministers produces, and to urge on the laymen of 
 Canada and our colonies generally, as well as on the 
 bishops and other ecclesiastical authorities, the uuportance 
 of senduig travelling missionaries throughout tlu^ country 
 to collect the scattered people when and where they can, 
 to offer prayers to God, and to deli\er the messages of 
 His grace. 
 
AVESTEIIN WANDERINGS. 
 
 243 
 
 ivith a fort and a 
 ses of entortain- 
 Scial upholder of 
 lile Mr. Wilson 
 re by represent- 
 ^hief Magistrate, 
 le, and holding, 
 fil other posts of 
 •icans, also, have 
 ship God; the 
 lapel which, like 
 s as a testimony 
 luty of any man 
 the Church of 
 ^ed our landlord 
 inday morning, 
 and to read a 
 ed much pleased 
 melancholy con- 
 ordinances from 
 le time arrived, 
 
 ill, Mrs. P 
 
 Mary was busy 
 16 circumstance, 
 d in the present 
 lich the want of 
 1 the laymen of 
 well as on tlie 
 , the unportance 
 Dut the country 
 vliere they can, 
 :he messages of 
 
 Busy, indeed, had been Mary with the dinner, for w. 
 were summoned to eat it at half-past twelve. Afterwards 
 to our no little satisfaction, the Pacific from Detroit 
 came m ; and hearing that she would depart the same 
 evenmg, we crossed the river with Cunoche, to secure a 
 passage by her instead ot ^^ aiting for the vessel to Chica.ro 
 which might not after all arrive, and we had no wisluo 
 stay miother day at the «Soo.- Finding, on reachin<T 
 the American shoi v, thi.t the steamer would not be off 
 till late at night, we took a real walk along a fine, broad 
 ro;id, a luxury not to be enjoyed un the British side; 
 then we returned i pack uj. and have an enrly tea, so as 
 to recross by daylight. Our vexafion was not small 
 wlien on going back we were told, n ith the most provoking 
 coolness, that the Pacific would not start till some time 
 the following morning; so we had to row o^'er the river 
 for the fourth time, again to take up our quarters at the 
 imi. ^ By the by, I must do justice to the moderation of 
 Pun's charges,, which, did n.Jt exceed a dollar a-day for 
 each person, and on this occasion he refused to accept 
 more than a small trifle in addition for our night's lod^rino- 
 and breakfast. ,. "^ "^ 
 
 On Monday, the 3d of October, at an early hour, we 
 made our last breakfast on Avhite-fish, strappni up, shook 
 hands with Mr. and Mrs. Pim, the fat Cornish miner, 
 and the rights-of-uum-believing coo})er, and, CanochJ 
 being our Charon, finally crossed the St. Marie Strait to 
 the land of Liberty. The morning was lovely, and we 
 anticipated a delightful paddle and full enjoyment of the 
 beautiful scen(;ry, when, again, oiir hopes were disap- 
 pointed by being told that the Pacific would wait for 
 the Manhattan expected in from Lake Superior. With 
 many a grudge at the loss of that magnificent day in the 
 
244 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 little uninteresting town of the "Soo," we waited hour 
 after hour in the hopes of starting. Again, we walked 
 past Fort Brady, with its whitt^-washed palisades and 
 mushroom-looking little towers at the four comers,— a 
 castle, I should think, unrivalled in modem architecture. 
 On the green sward before the gates an awkward 
 squad of matchless awkwardness, in blue shell-jackets, 
 were drilling under a corporal with the most powerful 
 Irish brogue, evidently imported lately from the bogs of 
 Kilkenny. The physiognomies of most of the men be- 
 tokened them to have come from the same Green Isle, 
 though some were undoubtedly Germans or Dutch.' 
 We watched them, much amused at seeing one give his 
 front tile a punch in the small of the back to make him 
 move faster, and another a kick in a less honourable 
 part, apparently with the same object in view. 
 
 We dined at Van-Andeu's big wooden hotel at one 
 o'clock, in company with Mr. Wilson, the British magis- 
 trate at the "Soo," and several residents of the place 
 wliom we had met before. We were attended by two 
 quiet damsels and a moustachioed, imperialled, hyadnth- 
 ine-locked Apollo of a waiter, who, while we were still 
 at the table, sat down at the head of it, to tl e roast beef 
 and other comestibles we had left. As we were going 
 out, I inf^uired whom I was to pay for our dmner^ 
 when Ajx)llo, without rising from his seat, stretched out 
 his hand and took my d;'Iar with the most sublime and 
 tmly impressive indifterence. 
 
 In the parlour, a small room with all the windows 
 closed, and, exquisite as was the day, with a stove ab- 
 solutely red-hot, we fomid two women in rocking-chairs, 
 with their feet on its edge, complaining mournfully of 
 sick headaches. I afterwards, on board the steamei-, 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 245 
 
 Fe waited hour 
 ain, we walked 
 
 palisades and 
 ur comers, — a 
 Ti architectuiv, 
 s an awkward 
 e shell-jackets, 
 most powerful 
 in the bogs of 
 if the men be- 
 le Green Isle, 
 ns or Dutch. 
 g one give his 
 
 to make him 
 S8 honourable 
 
 BW. 
 
 1 hotel at one 
 
 British magis- 
 
 of the place 
 
 ended by two 
 
 leil, hyacinth- 
 
 we were still 
 
 tl e roast beef 
 
 e were going 
 
 • our dmner, 
 
 stretched out 
 
 ; sublime and 
 
 the windows 
 1 a stove ab- 
 )cking-chairs, 
 lournfully of 
 
 the steamer, 
 
 expatiated largely on the destructive effects to female 
 beauty of hot stoves and mixtures of sweet things and 
 rich food. 
 
 Mr. Wilson assured me, that the Hudson's Bay 
 Company do not interfere with any one fishing on the 
 coast of Lake Superior. Their own people catch as 
 many fish as are required for their wants, and there is an 
 abundance for all. Though there is much fishing on the 
 British shore, and many British subjects, whites and 
 half-castes, are einployed, the boats and capittil are all 
 American. I consulted him about sending out a party 
 of Shetlandei-s to these regions (an idea I had for some 
 time entertained); and he was of opinion they would 
 most certainly thrive. In Shetland they all cultivate 
 small farms or crofts, aided actively by the women, and 
 are, at the same time, bold and successful fishermen. 
 Boat-builders, he told me, would succeed, as there is a 
 great and increasing demand for l^oats. I afterwards 
 communicated with the Canadian Government on the 
 subject, and received every encouragement from them to 
 carry out my plan. The land, Mr.'wilson assured me, 
 somu little way from the shore on the British side where 
 there is a maple-bush, is excellent for all agricultural 
 purposes. 
 
 Alack ! how we wandered up and down that day I 
 
 sometimes on l>oard, sometimes on the quays — sometimes 
 towards Lake Superior, sometimes towards Fort Brady 
 —till at last we saw the rear of tlK; van which had been 
 waiting for the Manhattan's passengers disappear round 
 the corner, and with hope of emancipation reviving 
 witiiin us, once more repairing on l)oard. we sat down 
 m the saloon among other weary mortals and awaited our 
 late. In the course of half-an-hour biir fellows with 
 
246 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 IittJo carpet-hags began to come on board, tlie first bdJ 
 rang, and wo. t,, express our satisfaction, gave a sub- 
 dued - 1 iip, lap, iuirraii !" and felt more amiable. Then 
 some -,jr ocouiTod on the wharf, where dull apathy had 
 reigned all day-~a clatter of plutes in the saloon be- 
 tok*..ned preparations for tea. The second bell rang. Fe- 
 male friends cam*., to see others off, g,;t afraid of being 
 carried away, and n-n iutd to go and make inquiries 
 to pacify them. The third bell rang. Away they hurried. 
 J here was a shouting and a heaving of ropes, a fizzin.^ 
 and a splash, and the Pacific was positivelv moving" 
 JVow, as if a weight were removed, upsprang our elastic 
 spirits -the bright evening seemed brighter, and the 
 golden and crimson hues of sunset attracted our eyes 
 and excited an interest of which a few minutes before wJ 
 liad felt incapable. Thus, probablv for ever, we bade 
 adieu to the Sault St. Marie. 
 
t 
 
 1, tlie first lifli 
 fi, gave a sub- 
 Liniable. Then 
 ull apathy hud 
 the saloon be- 
 Ijell rang. Fe- 
 ufraid of beincr 
 make inquiries 
 y theylmrried. 
 ■opes, a fizzing 
 ively moving. 
 *ng our ehtstic 
 hter, and the 
 ;ted our eyes, 
 utes before we 
 iver, we bade 
 
 1 wl 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Thb: quiet features of tlie landscape wore their sweetest 
 smile as we were borne down the blue stream of the 
 St. Marie. The ripple of our wake glowed wnth a rosy 
 light; several quick-gliding canoes, and a large boat 
 with white canvass passed between us and the setting 
 sun, whose level rays rested with a calm mild radiance 
 on the woodland shores and l.jnely log-huts wliich ever 
 and anon peeped forth as Wf glided by. 
 
 We slopped for the night twelve miles from the Sault, 
 that certain sand-banks might be passed by dnylight, and 
 that the ship might be stored witii fuel. Huge piles lay 
 on the bank, and soon, with much noise, and torches 
 waving to and fro, were brought on boai-d. Then, as we 
 stood on the small verandah deck, happily deserted by 
 the rest of the passengers, silence and a deeper darkness 
 settled over us. Lights gleamed at a distance from In- 
 dian huts across the lake-like stream ; as the stars shone 
 out, their soft reflexions looked steadily up at us, scju*cely 
 qmvering on the placid surface benetUh. Canoes came 
 noiselessly gliding from out of the obscurity and crept 
 stealthily round the steamer. One was paddled by 
 
 ■i m'i 
 
2 AH 
 
 WESTEUN WA\DKI(IN0«. 
 
 r 
 
 vvoint'ii, and thvy wore sinking a low mournful ci,aiit, 
 winch, ,„nn-ng from afar, struck uiclocliously on our 
 (•ru-H — in truth, thu beauty of the scene recompensed us 
 h^>r tlie delay. We stood there for long and talked of 
 Nia^'ara, for mv were now fai.-ly on our way to see it as 
 we conceived it should be seen. 
 
 The rest of the i)assengers sat round a fearfully hot 
 ''rove, the stifling smell from which, as pacing back- 
 wards and forwards we passed tlie open door'^of the 
 saloon, actually oppressed us. Yet these people n^ 
 inau.ed under It, malign influen.'e the whole evenin- 
 through. No wonder so many women look dull-eyed 
 and pasty. There was heat enough in the place to stew 
 an oyster. 
 
 Our companions were not the most delectable s])ecimens 
 oi Immamty-u.osily petty shop-keepers from the new 
 settlements (m Lake Superior, with whom the rou^h 
 nuners and backwoodsmen bore a favourable comparison • 
 yet they were all as civil to us as we could desire. The 
 gregarious habits of tlie lower orders of Americans 
 teach_ them a courtesy and forbearance towards their 
 associates which Englisli people of the same chiss do not 
 ]>ossess. 
 
 All were not alike. We had an agre^-able man, who 
 gave me the curious tale of Cadotte's life, and there was 
 a gent emanly young officer relieved from his post at 
 i^ort Br^y, From what he .aid, the officers of the 
 nited States' army have decidedly aristocratical ten- 
 tlencies, and would willingly interpose a barrier to the 
 l>rogTess of^ democracy. They are, in consequence, 
 looked on with no little suspicion and with small love by 
 the people. No British scion of nobility could be more 
 anti-republiciirx in his feelings than was our young friend 
 
WESTERN WAMJEUINOS. 
 
 240 
 
 »our?iful chant, 
 liously on our 
 •C'conij)(>nsi'(l us 
 urul talked of 
 'ay to see it as 
 
 a fearfully hot 
 ]>acing back- 
 i door of tlio 
 'HO people re- 
 vhole eveninn- 
 ook dull- eyed 
 l)lace to stew 
 
 il)le sj)ecirnens 
 Prom the new 
 n the rouffh 
 3 coni})arison : 
 desire. The 
 »f Americans 
 towards their 
 3 class do not 
 
 ble man, who 
 nd there was 
 1 his post at 
 ficers of the 
 cratical ten- 
 u-rier to the 
 •on sequence, 
 nail love bv 
 lid be more 
 oung friend. 
 
 Th 
 
 and yet he was a thorou^rh ■ triotic American 
 
 men are well disciplin d, an^. !.,ing, with few exceptions, 
 strangers from all pair • uf t'l.e world, obey their officers 
 from instinct, luid folk . |: > who pay them. Knowing 
 this, I was amused at the iv^t of my young friend that 
 the American army f?^' ' ^s patriots t» defend their 
 hearths and homes. 
 
 "I ask pardon," I continued, laughing; "truly the 
 fellows we saw yesterday don't dream nnich of i)atriotism ; 
 !ior did your men in the Mexican war of their hem-ths 
 and homes." 
 
 " Well, no; perhaps not: but our militia are patrio- 
 tic," he replied. 
 
 " Granted willingly," said I. « I believe that not a 
 mure patriotic, braver body of men exist tlian the United 
 States militia, nor have they degenerated from those who 
 won the independence of your peo])le." 
 
 I had taken a cabin on the lee-side, the wind hold- 
 nig, as I expected, from the west, and thus we were able 
 to sit with our door opening on the deck pleasantly shel- 
 tered, and as exclusive as we desired in our society. 
 
 A perfectly lovely sunrise awoke us the next morn- 
 ing, and most luxuriously we indulged ourselves in gaz- 
 nig at it through the cabin windows without getting oft' 
 our shelves, our steamer meantime hurrying towards the- 
 oi)en lake. I^irst when we looked out, the whole sky 
 was tinged with a bright glow of yellow and red, every 
 instiuit ch:mging, till the sun, like a ball of glittering 
 gold, shone forth from among the branches of the ftiathery 
 pme-trees covering the numerous islands among which we 
 were threading our way. Truly tliesc sunrises and sun- 
 sets on the lake are beautiful, but all else sadly unsatis- 
 factory — vanity and vexation of spirit. 
 
250 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 We were compelled, however, to choose between 
 romance and reality, to get up or to lose our breakfast. 
 So, as the inward man would not agree to do the latter, 
 we had, much against our will, to appear in the world. 
 Our repasts on board this vessel were oven more hurried 
 than usual, for there was what I should scarcely have 
 expected in so re[)ublican a part of the country, a second 
 table, the sitters at which being the hungry stewards 
 themselves, they used to spirit off the provender with 
 such lightning-like ra])idity, that we had rarely got 
 through one (piarter of our meals before we were de- 
 serted by our companions, and had to lay viohiut hands 
 on anv dish«}S within our reach to save oarselves from 
 starvation, while I humbly recpiested the expei^tant 
 feeders, not regarding our ])resence, to fall to and eat. 
 This they generally did very much to my satisfactica, 
 and I hope to theirs. 
 
 Kunninjx alonjx with the end of the Great Manitouln 
 on our left, at about ten o'clock we emerged into Lake 
 Huron, then looking bright, ami beautiful, and calm. 
 We soon afterwards passed, with many regnits at being 
 unable to visit it, the curious island of Mackinaw, rising 
 like a blue hillock out of the glittering waters in the far 
 distance. Often we saw a whole fleet of vessels to- 
 gether on these remote waters, several of them large 
 three-masted schooners, with taunt masts and a wide 
 spread of white canvass, but there was little to interest us 
 during the rest of the day. 
 
 At night it came on to blow, thunder, lighten, and 
 rain, and continued so long that we began to (question 
 whether the amo\uit of pleasure to be foinid on these 
 great lakes could coimterbalance the disagreeables they 
 so liberally provide at the time of the year we had taken 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 251 
 
 [oose between 
 Diir breakfast, 
 • do the latter, 
 
 in the world. 
 
 more hurried 
 scarcely have 
 ritry, a second 
 iigry stewards 
 rovender with 
 id rarely got 
 
 we were de- 
 
 vi()h;nt hands 
 larselves From 
 the expectant 
 dl to and eat 
 y satisfactioii, 
 
 ;at Manitourn 
 Ted into Lake 
 ul, and calm. 
 o;n3ts at being 
 ckinaw, rising 
 ters in the far 
 of vessels to- 
 of them large 
 s and a wide 
 i to interest us 
 
 *, lighten, and 
 m to (question 
 Dimd on these 
 greeables they 
 we had taken 
 
 to traverse them. At about ten in the morning, how- 
 ever, the storm blew off, and with a bright cheering 
 sunshine, we entered the River St. Clair, here about half 
 a mile wide. 
 
 We had now many objects on eitlier hand to interest 
 us. On thc^ Canadian shore was the neat and pretty little 
 town of Sarnia, about to become the terminus of the 
 Gi'aiid Trunk Railway. Two steamers lay thei-e ; while 
 on the American side was Port Huron, a thriving-look- 
 ing place. In strong contrast to them, we came shortly 
 after to i a Indian reserve on Canadian territory, all 
 forest or wild land," a few miserable wigwams only 
 appearing here and there, while a canoe passed us, 
 paddled by two uncouth, dai'k-skinned squaws. The 
 whirling eddies of the dark blue waters showed how 
 rapidly the current ran which bore us on to Niagara. 
 
 The Canadian shore was the most interesting, though 
 both sides wore an air of advancing civilisation. There 
 were villages and farm-houses, corn-fields and meadows, 
 rustic cottages and log-huts, sheep and oxen feeding ; 
 township cuttings striking u}> through the forest in a 
 far away perspective; railways begim; ordinary roads, 
 with carts and carriages ruiming on them ; steamers and 
 other boats plying along shore, added to which, the sky was 
 bright, the ixlr was y)ure, and the maple-groves and many 
 forest-trees had already l)egun to assume the rich and 
 varied tints of crimson, red, and pink; of yellow, purple, 
 and of brown, in which autumn, in seemingly fantastic 
 mood, delights to deck them. 
 
 At about one o'clock, emerging from the Straits, we 
 found ourselves amid a wide expanse of green rushes on 
 the waters of Lake St. Clair, which, from its name, J 
 suppose, I had all my life been accustomed to fancy nmst 
 
252 
 
 AVESTEP.N WANDERINGS. 
 
 be a most lovely and romantic sheet of water. In reality, 
 the shores being rather low, and itself too small to Jxcite 
 the imagination, it is the least interesting of all the 
 lakes. 
 
 Towards three o'clock, we entered the Kiver Detroit, 
 or narrow river, Mery appropriately so called, witli a 
 number of windmills, speaking loudly of agricultural 
 prosi)erity on the Canadian shore ; and an hour aftenvards 
 we arrived off the American town of Detroit, which, 
 with numerous spin-s of churches towering above hand-' 
 some buildings, has from the water a somewhat imposing 
 appearance, wiiile the number of steamers and other 
 vessels at the quays, and the general stir and bustle in 
 their neighbourhood, sliowed that there must be a con- 
 siderable amount of eonunercial business transactinir. A 
 variety of omnibuses, cars, carriages, and vehicles, 
 awaited our arrival on the wharf, so closely packed, tliat 
 it api)eared impossible to pass them. While one set of 
 ticketed porters took charge of our luggage, we found 
 ourselves handed into an jiiry and clean omnibus, to he 
 conveyed to the National Hotel, which we had' hoard 
 well spoken of. How we were to get through the 
 throng of carriages standing hither anil thitlier ^across 
 the noses of our 'bus liorses, seemed a puzzle ; for one 
 and all were deserted by their Irish drivers, who had 
 gone to "devart" then, .elves by seeing the passengers 
 land, and i)erhaps jjick up a fare. However, our driver, 
 a genuine Yankee, mounted his box, and bv snappiriir jiis 
 whip at one pair of steeds, cajoling a second,, caTiincr 
 " Get out there!" to a third, shouting to a fourth, thev 
 began to back, and to side, and in the fumiiest manneV 
 possible a way was cleared for our exit without the 
 
 intervention of any other human being. 
 
 Passino; throuiih 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 253 
 
 ter. In reality, 
 
 small to excite 
 
 ting of all the 
 
 Kivcr Detroit, 
 called, with a 
 of agricultural 
 lour afterwards 
 Detroit, which, 
 g above hand- 
 ;what imposing 
 ers and other 
 
 and bustle in 
 nust be a con- 
 •ansaeting. A 
 
 and vehicles, 
 y packed, tliat 
 liile one set of 
 igo, we found 
 minibus, to bo 
 we had heard 
 
 through the 
 thither across 
 izzle ; for one 
 ers, \vho had 
 he ]3asse)igers 
 ir, our driver, 
 r snapping his 
 5cond„ calling 
 :i fourth, they 
 miest nininier 
 ; without the 
 ssing through 
 
 several fine broad streets, with good houses and handsome 
 shops, we stop])ed in an open space before the National 
 Hotel, which showed an im^wsing front, and had a flight 
 of many steps heading up to its first floor. 
 
 We found it very clean and most comfortable. It 
 was handsomely, but not gaudily, furnished ; the master 
 was very civil and his servants attentive, and altogether 
 it was as nice an hotel as any we had seen. 
 
 Before tea was ready, we took a walk through the 
 town. First we went along a broad street of detached 
 houses, or rather villas, of considerable size and of 
 various styles of architecture. If not elegant, they were 
 thorouglily comfortable-looking; then we turned into 
 one full of factories, our ears beirg assailed by the roar- 
 ing of bellows, the hammering at steam-boilers, the clank 
 of engines, whih^ huge masses of machinery met our eyes, 
 and smoke and dust came raining down on our heads. 
 Gratifying as were these signs of prosperity, we hastened 
 awav from the deafening din into another street, lined 
 with handsome shops, where we made some purchases 
 at about the same price we shovdd have paid in Oxford 
 Street. All the streets are broad, and ui man}^ trees 
 have been planted on both sides of the road, — a custom 
 of wliich I am most especially fond. It contains from 
 2(),0(K) to 25,000 inhabitants, to whom no httle credit is 
 due for building so neat and pretty a town. 
 
 VVe rose at six, and found an excellent breakfast on 
 the tal)le at seven ; : fter partaking of which, and being 
 lianded to our omnious b^ the head clerk, and politely 
 bowLHl out bv the master, we embarked on board the 
 Buckeye Statf? ^^teamer, bound for Buftalo. The crush 
 to get ticke*- ( i. board was frightful; and anxious f . 
 
254 
 
 WESTERN WANDEllINGS. 
 
 secure a cabin for my wife, I had to figlit my way up to 
 the counter where the clerk was serving them out. I 
 then, having exhausted nil my dollar notes, tendered him 
 English sovereigns, which he refused at first to take; 
 and wh.n he did, would not allow their proper value for 
 them. However, this m as one of the very few occasions 
 on which I met with any incivility in the States. 
 
 One or two other vessels which ought to have gone 
 during the previous week to Buffalo having hroken domi 
 or blovvn up during the bad weather, the Buckeye State 
 liad an undue share of passengers, which circumstance made 
 our A oyage through Lake Erie very for from pleasant. 
 
 Opposite Detroit is the Canadian town of Sandwich, 
 at which, as we remained an hour on board before start- 
 ing, wo lind an abundance of time to gaze. It consists of 
 a largt! number of neat and many very j)retty houses 
 surromided by gardens, so rJiat from the water it looks 
 like a town of villas. It is now the terminus of the 
 Great Western Railway; and must, in addition to that, 
 with its extensive water communication, become a place 
 of considerable importance. \Ve had thought of crossing 
 to it, and from thence travelling overland to Niagara, 
 London, and Hamilton; but as we sjiould then have 
 had to abandon our plan of gli.bng down the waters of 
 Niagara, we kept to our original intention. 
 
 The next Cana<lian place wo came to was Maiden, 
 jnst at the ontraTice of Lak(> Erie. It appeared to consist 
 clnefly of cottages closely packed together. The shores 
 of Lake L^rie near the Detroit Kivi^r are comi)osed of a 
 succession of low sandy cliffs fringed on the to]) with 
 lofty trees, from among which appeared a number of 
 pretty cottages and cultivated farms; while lakewards 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 255 
 
 t my way up to 
 g them out. I 
 's, tendered hin) 
 t first to take; 
 :)roper value for 
 •y few occasions 
 States. 
 
 it to have gone 
 i(j^ liroken down 
 Buckeye State 
 iumstance made 
 rom pleasant, 
 n of Sandwich, 
 rd before start- 
 It consists of 
 j)retty houses 
 water it looks 
 irnijnus of the 
 Idition to that, 
 )ecome a phce 
 ght of crossing 
 id to Niagai'ii, 
 dd then have 
 the waters of 
 
 I was Mnlden, 
 
 ared to consist 
 The shores 
 
 coni|)osed of a 
 the to]) with 
 a ninnber of 
 
 lile lakewards 
 
 several wooded islands floated sleepily on the blue waters, 
 making a view, altogether aided by a bright sunsiune, of 
 much interest and beauty. 
 
 We had some curious specimens of humanity among 
 the heterogeneous crowd on board. One lady, a cabin 
 ))assenger, was smoking a short pipe of strong tobacco all 
 (lay — a "dudeen" it would be called in Ireland; and slie 
 would persist in coming and sittuig next to us wherever 
 we moved. I fancy that she had the same taste for the 
 picturesque that we had, and consequently came to the 
 side whence the vie\A-s most [)leased her; but she spoke 
 not a word to us, or to any one else that I saw. 
 
 As we sat on deck two women, after long examininir 
 us, came forward ; one of them addressing me with 
 " Please, sir, let me look through your glass." I thought 
 she meant ray telescope, but she pointed to my eye-glass; 
 and without giving me time to take the ribbon off my 
 neck, down she went on her knees by my side ; and with 
 many contortions of visage peeped earne.'stly througli the 
 glass, while 1 sat ]>erfectly uiu-oncerned, wonderuig what 
 she would next dt>. " Well," said the damsel at last, " 1 
 can't see nothing. We thought it was an opera-glass." 
 
 A civil stewardess I had askeu to attend my wife in 
 her cabin, replied, excusing herself for the moment on 
 the plea of pre-occupation, " After that, sir, I'll come 
 and fix yoiu- missus right away." 
 
 VV^e saw many lovely simsets, but none more beautifid 
 thnn that on Lake Erie. The most delicate tints of red, 
 pink, yellow, and tfreen blendino- softlv int(^ each other 
 with a perfect velvety look, covered the greater portion 
 of the sky, except the space overhead, which w;is mottled 
 like a trout's back. Though the sign, as it proved, of 
 
25() 
 
 WESTEliN AVANDERINGS. 
 
 fine weather, the night to oiir cost wjis bitterly cold ; and 
 {US the state-room, awarded to us after all my strugcdinrr, 
 hehig close to the erin;ine and horribly odorous, was 
 totally uninhabi table, we were compelled to sit up in the 
 saloon the live-long night by the side of the stove, a 
 nmrderous draught pervading the whole place. 
 
 When driven into the saloon by the cold, we heard a 
 violin s(|uc;ik several times, and a voice crying loudly, 
 " Ladies and gentlemen wishing to dance, please step 
 forward." On tliis a universal move to the forward 
 saloon took place. Damsels ap])eared from their state- 
 rooms in low gowns, long gloves, and roses in their hair; 
 beaux cast aside Chestei-fields, or exchanged shooting- 
 jackets fur n-ul-coats. We followed the crowd. A black- 
 tiddler, and a guitarist of the same hue, with huge shirt- 
 collars and enormous white ties, stoovl at one end of the 
 saloon, while the passengers arranged themselves M-ith ail 
 the gravity of the Anglo-Saxcm race in position for a 
 quadrilla Then the negro fiddler, with a graceful flou- 
 rish of his bow giving forth the figure to be danceil, 
 struck up the tune. Never did musician play with more 
 animation or stamp with more vehemence; and never did 
 a dancing-master of the ceremonies feel more interest in 
 the display of his favourite pupils than did Sambo in the 
 terpsicliorean exploits of those now ranged under his 
 directions, I scarcely think the lattei- did him justice. 
 The damsels smiled and looked animated enough, hut 
 the men seemed to makt; it rather a matter of business 
 than pleasure. In some of the tunes the two musicians 
 sung a queer kind ol' negro melody as an accompaniment ; 
 and then he of the fidclle-stic-k plied it more vigorously 
 and stajnped more vehemently, till the dancers, catching 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGJ5. 
 
 257 
 
 his enthusiasm, whirled, and twisted, and turned as 
 furiously as he could desire ; and thus the ball was kept 
 uji with the greatest animation till midn: /ht. 
 
 The slow « tinor ting " of the captain^s bell— a sifrnal 
 to the engineers below-— announced to us that ourfor- 
 from-pIeasHnt voyage through Lake Erie was on the 
 |)nint of being tiTuiinated. This auspicious moment was 
 ahout half-past five on the morning of the 7 th October. 
 
 The rosy dawn slowly found its way through the 
 stained windows of our gaudy prison-house ; and after a 
 vast deal of quarrelling and bloodshed,— one man having 
 knocked another down and broken his nose with no little 
 satisfactioii,— we got clear of the ill-managed Buckeye 
 State. During her last voyage, in a gale of wind she 
 ran down a schooner near Buffalo, and got her own star- 
 board paddle-box stove in, wliich, in addition to a number 
 of broken windows, gave her a somewhat dilapidated 
 a])pearance. The schooner foundered immediately. The 
 officers of the steamer stated that on this they lowered 
 a boat, but after pulling about for three hours i^)uld find 
 no trace of the people in her. The gale had hicreased so 
 much, that when she came in M-ith this news no pers(ms 
 from Buffalo would go to prosecute the search. How- 
 ever, the masters of several schooners in the liarl)our, 
 with a fellow-feeling for their brother lakemen, got a' 
 lifi'-boat, and putting her into a waggon, drove down 
 along shore to the spot near wliich the accident was said 
 to have occurred. Knowing the depth of water, they 
 fully expected to find the masts rising some way out of 
 It. Nor on launching their boat w(Te they mistaken ; for 
 after pulling a short distance, they discovered a poor 
 relluw still clinging to the fore rigging, and he declared 
 tJiat no boat had come near him since the accident Tlie 
 
 V(^L. I. g 
 
258 
 
 WESTERN WANDEKINGS. 
 
 master, who was owner, and three men, were lost in tlie 
 schooner. 
 
 On landing we took a cab, and drove to the Claren- 
 don Hotel, an excellent, clean, ami liandsome house, 
 where the master, [)ertectly the gentleman i]i his maimers, 
 was walking about, and watching that all the servants 
 did their duty. We got an excellent breakfast for the 
 usual embargo of one dollar fifty cents for two persons; 
 but then, in addition, we had the use of a room for 
 washing and dressing, and received plenty of civility, for 
 which I am always ready to pay, as it puts me in good- 
 humour, not only with the place and people present, but 
 with tlie world in general. 
 
 IJuffalo is decidedly a fine city. At the head of the 
 navigation of the upper lakes, and with railroads branchinc 
 from it east, west, and south, it has become a place of 
 great connnercial imi)ortance. The streets struck us as 
 very wide even for this land of fine cities. They are 
 lined with lofty, massive-looking houses, not run up for a 
 day, but intended to last. The shojjs are also handsome; 
 the greater number of them, judging by the names, kept 
 by Gernuuis, French, or Italians ; though, as in no country 
 does the process of denationahsation go on so rapidlv as 
 in the Stntes, many of them might have been in reality 
 thorough Yankees. Neai* the harbom- we passed several 
 canals, or perhaps the same canal tuniing in different 
 dire(;tions : with large warehouses built along their edges, 
 reminding us of Antwerp and Rotterdam, and other towns 
 in Holland and Belgium. It contains upwards of sixty 
 thousaud inliabitants, and is, consequently, about the size 
 of Toronto ; but the liouses appeared to me larger and 
 more substantial than in the Canadian citv. Tliis, how- 
 ever, may have been owuig to our eyes having been 
 
WESTERN AVAXDERINGS. 
 
 259 
 
 were lost in tlie 
 
 e to the Claren- 
 landsome liouse, 
 ti ill bis manners, 
 all the servants 
 )reakfa.st for the 
 or two persons; 
 ! of a room for 
 by of civility, for 
 uts me in good- 
 <tple present, but 
 
 ; the head of the 
 llroads brancbinc 
 come a ])bice oi 
 lets strnck ns as 
 itics. They are 
 not rnn rip for a 
 '^ also handsome ; 
 ■ the names, kept 
 , as in no country 
 on so rapidly as 
 ; been in reality 
 ve passed several 
 ling in diiferent 
 Jong their edges, 
 . and otlier towns 
 ipwards of sixt\' 
 y, about the size 
 a me larger and 
 itv. This, how- 
 )^Q& having been 
 
 aceustomec for so many days to the sight only of plank 
 ed.hces and log-huts. The city has near it a "fine s.mdy 
 beach and possesses a sn.all artificial harbour; but a 
 umch larger one is in course of construction more suited 
 to Its commercial wants. 
 
 As we were in a somewhat excusable hurry to see 
 Niagara, we left the hotel the same morning and went by 
 an ommbus, for which the charge was at the rate of a 
 \ork slnllmg each, on board the Emerald steamer, 
 starting at \) a.m. tor the Canadian village of Chippewa, 
 situated a short distance only above the Falls. 
 
 A railway connects Buffalo with the American side 
 of the talis; but as it is a most unromantic, and far less 
 interesting and agreeable way of approaching the miabty 
 spectacle, I strongly a.lvise my friends to pursue the 
 course we did. On our way to the steamer we passed the 
 Niagara hue of railroad ; cars were standing in the middle 
 of a street without even a shed or office near them, or 
 any gate before or behind, or any railing at the side to 
 guard people from getting in their way. The truth is, 
 I. sui-pose that the Americans are so early taught to keep 
 their wits and eyes in active operation, that tliev do 
 not require the safeguards considered requisite to sliield 
 the dcnnzens of other countries from dimger. 
 
 Buffalo is situated in a bay at the^'entrance of the 
 Niagara River or strait, which is just her j so very narrow 
 that, looking at it as we left the harbour, ] thought it 
 must be some small creek, and could scarcely persuade 
 myself that down its channel hurrv with impetuous 
 force millions of tons of water per hour to take their 
 terrihc leap over the lofty cliffs of xMagara. On lookin<r 
 up the lake westward, I saw no less than twelve good" 
 sized vessels under sail, two and three masted schooners ; 
 
260 
 
 WE8TEUN VVANDKUINflS. 
 
 I 
 
 which fnct gives a favourable idea of tlie extent of tho 
 commerce carried on in this district. Some, ])robahlv, 
 were only hound to Sandusity, Chwciand, or Detroit; 
 hut otliers were doid)tlessiy on tlii-ir way to the entrance 
 of Lake Superior, or through Lake Michifjjan to Chicago, 
 or a\o\)(r the Canada shore, with stores for the new towns 
 of Syih'uluun and Collingwood. Some had saih>d from 
 Buft'alo, and others had come throu^li the Welhmd Canal 
 from Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence. 
 
 Tile Lake Erie entrance of tliis maifnificent work, the 
 Wehand ('anal, of which Canada may justly be proud, is 
 some miles to tho west of the Niagara Kiver at Port 
 Colborne; it is, however, joined to the Niagara River 
 by tho Chii.pewa lliver, which, intersecting it at right 
 angles, is comiected with it by means of a series of locks. 
 " This canal," as Briggs observed, " has done what 
 nothing else would do — it has, in s])ite of its power and 
 size, its foaming and leaping, its roaring and raging, com- 
 pletely circumvented the niighty cataract." 
 
 Our steamer, the Emerald, was a remarkably nice, 
 clean, little vessel, with a good, clear walk fore and aft 
 on her ui)per deck, whence we could enjoy the points of 
 interest to be seen in our progress. 
 
 The moment also I heard the captain issue his orders, 
 I knew from tlie tones of his voice that lie was an old 
 salt; and on telling him so, at which he was nmch 
 pleased, I found that I was right. We soon became 
 friends ; and as we walked the deck together, he gave 
 me an outline of his history. There is nothing romantic 
 ill it, but it may be of practical use to others, on which 
 ground I know that he will allow me to repeat it. He 
 followed the sea for sixteen years, part of which time he 
 was a master. He then married ; and wishing to live on 
 
WESTERN WAXDEIUXOS. 
 
 2f)i 
 
 slioro, cjiiiuj out t(i Caiiml.'i to sottio as a. f'armor, liopincr 
 t<» inako up by hitolli^cnco for what he wanted in prac- 
 ricui knowledge. He aocordin^irjy |,ovi^r|,t a section of 
 wild ground in the iiei<^hhourhood of Toronto, and set to 
 work manfully and liopefnlly to clear it. In tlio winter 
 time he remained on shore, lahoiirin;,' with his own 
 hands ; in the sunnner he command.'d a steamer, and 
 then he had to pay labourers to work for him. This he 
 found far from remimerative. So <j;ivin^r up the command 
 ot his steamer, for a year he tried how far ho could 
 succeed by Avorkiu^•• himself, and by em[)l()yinnr others 
 under him wlumi he could efiicietitly superintend. He 
 w as very active, was always ready to helj) a neighbour, 
 got up " bees;' and did his best to set a good example. 
 When others were idle he used to say, " Never mind I 
 You stay at home by the fire and smoke your pipe : 
 we'll do the work, and you'll get the benefit you know." 
 This never failed to shanu* his neighbours into hel])ing 
 cacli other. 1 le saw how much time j)eople wasted by 
 want of management and a little pre-arrangement. As 
 an example, every time a man wanted to go out of his 
 field on horseback, \\v luid to lower a pole in tlu? fiance, 
 get off, aud put it up again. So he had a gate made on 
 board the steamer. And when he got it put u]) before 
 his house, all from far and near came to look at it ; for 
 no one in the neighbourhood had before tliouglit it worth 
 wliile to go to the expense of making a gate. At length 
 lie hurt his hand with an axe, and could nt» longer work 
 himself. He, therefore, had to hire more labour: and at 
 the end of the year he found that he was umch out of 
 pocket. Despairing of success, he sold his farm, and has 
 regretted doing so ever since. With the proceeds he 
 went into business ; but a Yankee correspondent did him 
 
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 262 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 out of all his property, so he had to begin the world 
 again. Friends who knew him were kind, and got him the 
 command of the Emerald. The Company were building 
 a new vessel for him, which he showed me on the stocks 
 at Chippewa with no little pride. She is to accomplish 
 the distance between Buffalo and that place in less than 
 an hour, and to return against the current in two. He 
 told me that he has never known young men accustomed 
 to luxury and to society succeed as formers in Canada. 
 The' greater number (I speak of bachelors, of course), 
 get tired and disgusted with their solitude ; and thinking 
 .10 one observes them, take to drinking, and soon ar? 
 rumed m mind, body, and estate. If a man, tliou^h 
 a gentleman, and a strong, active, intelligent fellow, were 
 mdustnous and would not get disgusted, he would 
 succeed as well as a mere hard-working labourer, if not 
 better. But then, unfortunately, there are few such. 
 Many flatter themselves that they have all the requisite 
 qualities for success, but when they come to be tried 
 they are found wanting. « There," observed our worthy 
 kmd-hearted captain, pointing with pride to the Canadian 
 shores, "that's as fair a country as any in the world; 
 there 's not better land anywhere throughout tlie States! 
 or a better to live in in every respect for all classes,' 
 gentle or simple. All can get on, if each one will only 
 attempt what he 's fitted for by nature ai.d education." 
 
 The shores on either side of the river, as we floated 
 rapidly on over the deep blue, calmly whirling waters, 
 appeared low and fringed with trees, with many fine 
 clearmgs between them, showing luidoubted signs of 
 being fertile and cheerfully inhabited. 
 
 The first point of interest we came to on the Canadian 
 shore was Fort Erie, long since dismantled and aban- 
 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 2(53 
 
 egin the world 
 and got him the 
 y were building 
 le on the stocks 
 i to accomplish 
 ice in less than 
 it in two. He 
 len accustomed 
 ers in Canada. 
 3rs, of course), 
 ; and thinking 
 . and soon are 
 I man, tliough 
 nt fellow, were 
 ;ed, he would 
 abourer, if not 
 are few such. 
 1 the requisite 
 le to be tried 
 ;d our worthy, 
 ) the Canadian 
 in the world; 
 )ut the States, 
 or all classes, 
 one will only 
 education." 
 as we floated 
 lirling waters, 
 th many line 
 3ted signs of 
 
 the Canadian 
 3d and aban- 
 
 
 doned, but enough of the walls remains to -how for what 
 purpose they were erected. During the 'ast American 
 War, it wjis attacked and defended, and taken and 
 retaken, I believe, several times. I trust that railway 
 tenriini will prove more lasting securities for peace than 
 A^'ould a hundred Gibraltars or Ehrenbreitsteins built 
 along the Canadian coast. 
 
 We iiext came in sight of Grand Island, belonging to 
 the^ United States. Here one of the principal agricul- 
 turists in America has a vast number of sheep arid also 
 cou-s, from which he used to supply all Buffalo with 
 milk ; but the railways now bring it in at a cheap rate 
 from all ])arts of the country, and enable others to under- 
 sell him. Thus the inhabitants both of city and country 
 benefit; the first by being able to obtaiii cheaper and 
 bet.er provisions, and the second l>y having a certain 
 market for their productions. 
 
 VV^e found ourselves soon near the scene of the 
 Filibustering expedition under Mackenzie. On the 
 Ctmada shore, in a wide clearing and close to the river, 
 a neat little cottage was pointed out, once the residence 
 
 of poor Major . Some of the sympathisers owed 
 
 him a grudge, and, aware that he was on his guard and 
 would certainly sell his life dearly if they attempted to 
 attack him openly, had recourse to a cruel stratagem to 
 destroy him. Accordingly, a party of them crossing the 
 river one night, seized a neighbour of his, whom tb.ey 
 compelled to ac(.'ompany them to his cottage, and then 
 threatening liim with instant death if he disobeyed, 
 ordered him to call the Major up, and to entreat him 
 to come out and assist him, as his house was beins 
 att^icked. 1 need scarcely stop to ask how even the fear 
 of death could make any man guilty of such an act of 
 
'W^ 
 
 264 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 trcacliory. The terror-stncken man, however, obeyed, 
 and the Major, throwi ofF his ^mard by the fjuund of a 
 friendly voice, appeared with a light at his door; at the 
 same moment the atrocious villains shot him dead with 
 their rifles, and instantly decamping, re-crossed the river. 
 The annals of the rebellion do not contain a more 
 cowardly or barbarous 'action. 
 
 We had a full account of the Caroline affair and 
 Navy Island heroes. How the gallant Captain Drew 
 cut her out with the hopes of bringing her in triumj)li 
 across to the Canadian side, and how, when he fijuiid 
 thuit she was drilling too close to the Rapids io give him -i 
 hope of saving her, he had set her on fire and allowed 
 her to drift away over the Falls. These and mmiy other 
 things were told us ; but our thoughts were all so con- 
 centrated on one great ol>ject, that we could think of 
 little else : and yet, now that every instant was bringiiiLr 
 us nearer to our destination, we had many misgivings 
 whether we should not be disappointed even at the laS. 
 But Niagara, often as it lias before been described, merits 
 at least a chapter to itself. 
 
vever, obeyed, 
 ;}ie sound of a 
 s door ; at the 
 liim dead with 
 >ssed the river, 
 •ntain a more 
 
 line affair and 
 Captain Drew 
 er in triumj)}i 
 ^hen he fovind 
 ■ to give liim a 
 e ajKl allowed 
 id niiuiy other 
 re all so con- 
 'ould think of 
 ; was bringinif 
 ny nii.sifivino's 
 en at the last 
 >cribed, merits 
 
 NIAGAIU, HU)M Minvf THF. JALI.S. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Our steamer was somewhere off the west end of Grand 
 Island, and we were walking the deck with the captain, 
 when stopping, he touched my arm and pohited out a 
 wliite cloud, suspended in inid-air in the far distance, 
 just then shaped like a barristc!r's wig, though of some- 
 what large dimensions. Ever and anon other little white 
 clouds rose up from the earth, some of them joining it 
 without nmch hicreasing its si/e, the rest Boating away 
 in(le|xmdently to leeward, in the otherwise unclouded sky, 
 looking as if they had no right to be up there to detract 
 from its azure splendour. 
 
'W 
 
 266 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 " There," saKl our captain; "yonder, fully twelve 
 miles away, is the vapour from the Falls. Some- 
 times it will arise and form a large cloud, which it 
 eontniues to feed, and which at each instant crrows 
 darker and darker, till the wind rising, bears it away 
 and It bursts over the country in a den.e shower of 
 ram. Sometimes you may thu. get a thorough drench- 
 mg from the Falls of Niagara twenty miles off. Some 
 winds have the effect of beating tlie vapour down and 
 preventing it from rising." 
 
 Such was the first thrilHng intimation we had of our 
 near approach to the great object of our pilgrimage. 
 We had already watched those v.urers, some of whfch 
 were just now hanging up like a beacon in the sky to 
 guide us on our way, whirling by us with mightv force 
 as they rushed forth from Lake Superior ; we h;d seen 
 them collecting from Lake Michigan and Lake Huron 
 hurrying through the Straits of Detroit and St. Clair 
 traversing the shallow bed of L^e Erie, and at leiwth 
 in ajiother hour or so, we should behold them taking 
 thei.- awful plunge. The current bore us swiftly on, 
 whulmg and (tidying in its course, and passing between 
 iSavy Island and the Canadian shore. Goat Island 
 appeared in sight when the foaming rapids, leapincr, -nd 
 curling, and fojuning in their troubled career, spread out 
 before us. As vre gazed at the giddying sight, and saw 
 the dark waters whirling in rapid eddies past us, know- 
 ing what was beyond them, we could not altogether 
 Rxoid feeling a certain uneasy anxiety lest some of the 
 machinery of the steamer giving way, we might he 
 hurried, with little time for shrift,' to inevitable destruc- 
 tion. Though the entrance to the ri^er, as I have said, 
 is very narrow, it here expands, a^ the waters rush over 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 267 
 
 H sluillow and rocky bed into a wide field of whitened 
 foam. It was, therefore, with much inward satisfaction 
 tliat we found the steamer gHding between embankments 
 into an artificial mouth of the Chippewa River; the real 
 mouth being a little way down and too near the full 
 force of the rapids to make the entrance pleasant or s^fe. 
 V\^e passed through a drawbridge to the quay of the 
 village of Chippewa, where landing, we found some 
 antique-looking railway cars, drawn by sober-minded 
 steeds instead of locomotives, standing ready to convey 
 us and our baggage to Niagara Falls. 
 
 "Ah," said a colonial youth, who saw us shaking 
 hands with the steamer's >vorthy captain ; " he's a fine 
 man now that, ain't he ?" The compliment was from the 
 heart and deserved. 
 
 A busy scene presented itself on the banks of the 
 little river. Saw-mills and flour-mills were at work, 
 turned by its untiring current ; the new steamer to take 
 the place of the Emerald, was on the stocks, near which 
 other craft were building, and boats and barges were 
 loading and reloading. We, however, were in too great 
 a hurry to reach our destination to take much interest 
 In what was going forw-ard. To be sure, we would 
 rather have approached the mighty cataract by any other 
 means than by so unromantic a conveyance as a railway 
 (>ar, though drawn by broken-winded nags ; but as we 
 had no choice, we were fain to submit to our fate. 
 
 Instead of a whistle and a shriek, the tlriver cracked 
 his enormously long whip, and the train was put in 
 motion, taking us directly along the banks of the river. 
 The doors of the cars were open, or rather doors there 
 were none, and many a neck was outstretched to catch 
 the first glimpse of the mighty sight all had come to see. 
 
 i N 
 
268 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 We had resolutely detenu iiie J not to look at it, and tried 
 to turn our lieads the otlier way over our shoulder. It 
 must be understood that we were travelling alonfr a 
 pleasant open down, on high ground above the Falls; 
 lor though we had not as(;ended since we landed, the 
 river had sloped downwards towards the east, so that wo 
 now looked down upon it from a considerable height, or 
 rather should have done so, had not thick woods of 
 graceful trees of many kinds and many hues hidden it 
 from our sight. ^,Ve kept our resolution most mag- 
 nanimously as long as there was nothing to see, and we 
 
 were congratulating ourselves in 
 
 so 
 
 arranixmg 
 
 that 
 
 JNiagara should burst upon us in all its magnificenci! ; 
 but when our companions exclaimed, " Ah, there it is, 
 oh, my I— how fine ! " I must own that I could not "resist 
 a glance. I intended it should only be a single one. 
 However, when I looked 1 could not withdraw my 
 gaze. 
 
 I saw between the trees, not the river— -not the 
 waterfall, as I expected, but what seemed to be the huge 
 rounded rim of some gigantic vase of green malachite, 
 yet unfinished by the hand of the monster workman. 
 It was the upper edge of the cataract at the centre of the 
 Horse-shoe Fail, where the great bulk of the water 
 rushes over the rocky precipice before it breaks into 
 masses of foam and vapour. I would not look again ; 
 but that single glimpse convinced me that we might have 
 raised our expectations far higher than we had done and 
 not have been disap])ointed. 
 
 From the accounts we had read, we expected to feel 
 the ground shaking, and to find the human voice over- 
 powered by tlie roar of waters; but not a perceptible 
 quake did the ground give, to the best of my recollection 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 269 
 
 : at it, and tried 
 ir shoidder. It 
 ^'clling along a 
 )ove the Falls; 
 we landed, the 
 cast, so that wo 
 rable height, or 
 thick woods of 
 hues hidden it 
 on most niaL'- 
 
 to see, and we 
 arranging that 
 I magnifieencH! ; 
 Vh, there it is, 
 •oukl not "resist 
 3 a single one. 
 
 witiidraw my 
 
 'iver — not tlie 
 to be the huge 
 •een malachite, 
 Lster workman, 
 le centre of the 
 of the water 
 it breaks into 
 ot look again ; 
 we might have 
 3 had done and 
 
 xpected to feel 
 lan voice over- 
 t a perceptilile 
 nj recollection 
 
 there was not sufficient noise to attract our attention; 
 certainly we were not required to speak louder than 
 usual. Of course, the loudness of the roar depends very 
 much on the position in which one is placed, whether 
 down the river, where it eomes like a shot from a gun, 
 concentrated by the high precipitous banks, or to wind- 
 ward or leeward. 
 
 The car stopped where the railway crosses a hicrh- 
 road on the side of a steep hill on the left, leading uj) to 
 Lundy's Lane, on which stand two lofty wooden towers, 
 built to enable visitors to inspect the field of battlo fought 
 between the English and Americans. Tourists of the 
 latter nation are very fond of visiting the battle-field, 
 conceiving, I believe, that tliey gained the victory, 
 whereas the Britishers equally lay claim to the honour. 
 The Irish car-drivers take ample advantage of this fancy, 
 and drive the visitors about in all directions, with naive 
 discursiveness narrating events which never occurred, 
 and with equal talent selecting spots as remote from 
 each other as possible for the scenes on which they 
 pretend they took place. 
 
 The termination of our journey was doomed to be 
 as unromantic as the commencement. A comfoiiuble 
 omnibus was in waiting, into which we got, and were 
 conveyed, in the company of several English and 
 Americans, to that most magnificent of hotels, the 
 Clifton House. The whole expense of the journey from 
 liuffalo to our hotel was seventy cents (three shillings 
 sterling) for each person, — steam-boat, railway, and 
 onmibus. 
 
 "Now let's go and have a grand look and be done 
 with it," exclaimed one of our Yankee companions, as he 
 with his friends jumped out of the 'bus, and rushed away 
 
270 
 
 WESTERN VVAXDE11ING8. 
 
 towards the Table Rock. It is possil)le our friend was 
 joking; but a large })ro|)ortion of the visitors got through 
 the sight with equal rapiditv. They take it as a nmttor 
 of business or duty. Niagara has to be seen, because 
 everybody wlio can atfortl to move goes to see it — it is 
 respectabhi, and serves to em[)Ioy a holiday. 
 
 We took another glance at the new as])ect of the 
 Falls seen frotn the front of the hotel before we entered 
 the house, and had to make the necessary arrangements 
 for securing accommodation. Fortunately for us the 
 season was past, and a very comfortable room was 
 assigned to us on the most favoured side of the hotel 
 facing the river. The Clifton House is a vast building, 
 of a scjuare form, in very good taste; one angle is so 
 turned to the Falls, that a gv)od view can be obtained of 
 them from two sides, wjiile, to artbrd shelter from sun or 
 rain, deep covered verandahs run entirely round two of 
 the principal stories.* 
 
 To see the Falls in all the grandeur and sublimity 
 with whi(;h nature endowed tliem, one should behold them 
 as did the rcTiowned Father Hennepin, their first Euro- 
 pean discoverer, when after toiling for days through the 
 tangled forest they first burst on his astonished sight in 
 all their pristine magnificence; but as such a mode of 
 proceeding in these civilised days was not allowed to us, 
 we did the best that circumstances would permit. 
 
 As soon as our luggage was arranged, the porters 
 dismissed, our dresses dusted, and our hands waslied, wo 
 opened the Venetian blinds with re\erential awe, and 
 stepped out together iiito the broad verandah, where a 
 full and perfect view of the Falls ai)peared before our 
 
 * Tlio position of the Clifton House is seen in the sketch of 
 the FaUs. 
 
3 our friend wag 
 iters jret tlirou^fh 
 ke it aa a mutter 
 )e seen, because 
 3 to see it — it Ig 
 ay. 
 
 w asi)ect of the 
 yfore we entered 
 ry arrangements 
 tely for us the 
 aide room was 
 ide of the hotel 
 a vast buiidintr, 
 one angle is so 
 II be obtained of 
 Iter from sun or 
 ly round two of 
 
 r and sublimity 
 uld behold them 
 lieir first Euro- 
 ays through the 
 mished sight in 
 uch a mode of 
 I; allowed to us, 
 permit. 
 
 red, the porters 
 nds waslied, W(! 
 ?ntial awe, and 
 findah, wdiere a 
 red before our 
 
 I ill the sketch of 
 
 WESTERN WAVDERINOS. 271 
 
 eyes. There were the very wators on which for dav.s 
 past we had Hoated, so .aim and placid geniTuIlv, now 
 loapuig, foammg, spouting, and dashing over a lofty clilF 
 fro.il a wide and ii«juid plain, about level with our eyes' 
 and j.lungmg into a deep chasm far down below our 
 hvt. We were, however, very much more struck with 
 the l)eautiful and i)icture3(]ue view than with tlie 
 gn.ndeur of the spectacle, so totally different to what all 
 prints, sketches, and models, had led us to expect. We 
 were deliglited with the form of tlu- cliffs, the varied 
 tints of the trees, the unifiue combination of wood and 
 water, but we were not overwhelmed with awe The 
 roar even was neither loud nor deep, nor wus it necessary 
 to spoidc at all in a higher key than usual to make our- 
 selves heard. Every now and then an eddy of wind 
 would bring a light shower of spray towards us, to prove 
 to us tb.e reality of the waterfall. Even in spite of this 
 our feehng was for some time, till we had gone over, and 
 under, and on either side, and touched tlu, foaming 
 waters of the cataract, that we were gazing on some 
 strange and wo.iderful picture rather than on an actual 
 object m nature. My wish is to make my readers under- 
 stand what Niagara really is, -^ far as pen and pencil 
 can do so, rather than to 1Ay into ecstatic raptures and to 
 utter oft-re])eated notes of admiration on its grandeur 
 and sublimity, or to enlarge on our own sensations of 
 wonder and awe. 
 
 The Niagara River runs nearly south and north from 
 Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, and thus the American 
 shore is on the eastern side, and Canada on the ^vest. 
 Lake Erie, it must be known, is 565 feet above the level 
 of the sea, and 334 above Lake Ontario. 
 
 The river below the Falls, extending for some miles. 
 
272 
 
 WESTERN WANDEfllNOS. 
 
 is like the most ))iotiirPsfjUO [)art of the Avon, near 
 Clifton, but tho jioriH-ndicuhir clilis on either side are 
 more lofty, iintl frinjfod with a greut vnriety of tall trees, 
 now assuming tlie most brilliant of their sliort-tinduring 
 autumnal tints. Suppose us, then, standing on the west 
 or Canada sido o\' this deep gorge, the river rushing 
 smoothly, hut in whirling eddies at our feet, to the right, 
 or towards tlie south, the gorge is abruptly terminated 
 by a wall of rock nnming directly across the river, 
 almost to the height of the bank on which we are stand- 
 inff, in somewhat of a horseshoe form, that is to sav, it 
 recedes in a circiilar shape towards tho centre, and bulges 
 out slightly at the ends. On a level with the top of this 
 wall, wbich looks as if the gates of some gigantic lock 
 had been removed, and their place blocked up by rocks, 
 over which a vast overplus of the upper stream has 
 begiui to flow, is seen extending a wide lakelike sheet of 
 water, fringed by the covered hanks, wi*h several sniall 
 islands floating on it. Far off up towards tho south end 
 of this seeming lake, which is the wider portion of tlie 
 Niagara Klver, the water is blue, bright, and cahn. As 
 it draws near it leaps, nubbles, and froths, sometimes 
 rising in huge jets, till across its entire width long lines 
 of foam are formed — iliese are the great rapids of 
 Niagara, once getting within wliose jK)wer scarcely a 
 hope remains for any flloaling thing, the stoutest ship or 
 frailest birch-bark < iiioey of escaping destruction — the 
 waters seem to writhe and struggle for a time, as if 
 unwilling to take tlieir niighty plunge ; then yielding to 
 the^. fate for an instant, they grow calm, and the next 
 glide rounding their backs over the wall-like precipice 1 
 have described ; and as they do so in their almost perpen- 
 dicular descent, jets of foam burst from their many 
 
the Avon, near 
 n either side are 
 rioty of tall trees, 
 jir sliort-enduriiig 
 idin^ on the west 
 :he river rushinc 
 foot, to the right, 
 •uptly tenninuted 
 across the river, 
 ich we are stand- 
 
 that is to sav, it 
 centre, and bulges 
 ith the top of this 
 )me gigantic lo(;k 
 'ked up by rocks, 
 ipper stream has 
 ! lakelike sheet of 
 a*h several small 
 rds the south end 
 ler portion of the 
 t, and calm. As 
 froths, sometimes 
 i width long lines 
 
 great rapids of 
 K)\ver scarcely a 
 e stoutest ship nr 
 destruction — the 
 or a time, as il' 
 
 then yielding to 
 lin, and the next 
 11-like precipice 1 
 lir almost perpen- 
 Toni their manv 
 
 U'KSTEKX WANDEHIXO?. 
 
 27;j 
 
 t..ldcd iKjuid slieets, till they break entirely into masne. 
 ot fr..th, and are lost to sight in the clouds of white 
 vapour caused by the force <.f their rapid desc-ent into 
 the bottom of the ravine, 'i'his is tlu, llors(;shoe Fall. 
 
 At its eastern extreuu'ty is a huge mass of rock, 
 ol some acres in extent, covered thicklv with trees 
 called Goat Jsland, one part of which forms th.^ cliffs on' 
 the east side of tlie ravine through which the river flows 
 :m.l which are ahnost at right angles with the .roneral 
 line ot the Ilor.'^eshoc YnM ^ 
 
 The upper level of the ravine sweeping round (Joat 
 Island, rushes onward in a succession of rapids throu^di a 
 narrow chamn>l till it leaps over the cliffs on the eastern 
 si.le, in a perpendicul.ir sheet, into the river below, form- 
 ing what is called the Americm Fall, and directly'facing 
 the hank on which we are standing. It is of itself a 
 superb water-fall, and were it not for the Horseshoe 
 Fall would be looked on with wonder. A small island 
 covered with trees, at the north end of Goat Island, cuts off 
 ;i portion of the water, which flies oxer the cliff in a thick 
 massive jet, projected many feet from the rocks, and from 
 the force with which it flies out is entirely covered with 
 foam. This, from its hurry in separating itself from its 
 parent stream, and its brawling, foann'ng,' blustering man- 
 ner, we forthwith ai)propriately dubbed "Young Anrerica." 
 Verily, however, it is a noble little jet, and dten have! 
 journeyed many a mile to gaze at a si.out vcrv nmch its 
 inferior, so Yoimg America need not be ashamed of its 
 namesake. We have now got the two falls united in 
 the lower channel of the river. From the base of each of 
 them arise clouds of white vapour, souietimes kept down 
 by the winds to the upper level of the cliffs, but oftener 
 siirmonnting them, and sending plentiful showers in the 
 VOL. I. ^ 
 
274 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 direction in which tliey are driven, the 'ghter particles 
 forming clouds in the clear hlue sky, to be floated away 
 far from the spot which gave them birth. Wc delighted 
 to watch the magnificent and perfect iris which was 
 formed when facing them with the sun behhid us on 
 these masses of spray. A small round tower has been 
 built on the very edge of the preci})ice, on some rocks 
 which rise above the water some thirty yards or so from 
 the wesi; end of Goat Island. Standing on the top of 
 this tower, we could see part of the bow formed on the 
 spray rising from the Horseshoe Fall, and the remainder 
 of the ai.c on that caused by the American i all, the effect 
 being most beautiful and curious. 
 
 To return to the lower level of the river. It tiow 
 fl(nvs on in a deep eddying stream, closely confined 
 between its lofty perpendicular banks for about two 
 miles, wliere it meets, directly facing its strong-willed 
 impetuous course, a lofty circular cliff, formhig almost 
 an entire basin, its only outlet being a narrow chaimel 
 at a very acute angle to that by which tlie river 
 enters. 
 
 The excited waters njeeting with this obstruction, and 
 hotly pressed in the rear, flow nmnd and round the 
 sides of this circular basin, and do not escape at once 
 by the narrow channel open to them, but obtaining a 
 rotatory motion, form a tremendous whirlpool, in whose 
 eddies huge trees are often retained for days, and even 
 weeks together, their ends being thrown every now and 
 then many feet above the surface, to be again carried 
 down to its lowest depths. The centre of the whirlpool, 
 instead of being lower, is, it is said, seven feet higher 
 than at the edges. 
 
 Across tlie river, trora cliff to cliii, m sight of tiie 
 
'ghter particles 
 
 be floated awav 
 
 We delitvhted 
 
 iris which was 
 
 ti behind us on 
 
 tower has been 
 
 , on some rocks 
 
 yards or so from 
 
 g on the top of 
 
 w formed on the 
 
 id the remainder 
 
 111 1 all, the eifect 
 
 e river. It now 
 closely confined 
 1 for about two 
 its strong-willed 
 , forming almost 
 narrow channel 
 tvliich tlie river 
 
 5 obstruction, and 
 I and round the 
 )t escape at once 
 
 but obtaining a 
 
 lirlpool, in whose 
 
 )r days, and even 
 
 rn every now and 
 
 be again carried 
 
 of the whirlpool, 
 seven feet higher 
 
 'i, m sight of tile 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 275 
 
 Falls, a light suspension-bridge has been thrown, wlience 
 the view is very beautiful. 
 
 The widtlj of the Horseshoe Fall, following the line 
 of the curve from the Canada shore to Goat Island, is 
 about seven hundred yards. That of the American 
 Fall is three hundred and thirty yards, and the small 
 centre Fall is about thirty-three yards across. The 
 American Falls have the ad\-antage in point of height 
 over the Canadian, being one hundred and sixty-four 
 feet, while the latter are only one hundred and fifty- 
 eight feet high. From Chippewa, on the Canadian side, 
 to Scholosser, on the American, the river is the widest, 
 and thence there is an inclined plane, with a descent of 
 ninety feet, forming the raj)ids to the top of the per[)en- 
 dicular falls. The river below the Falls, at the ferry 
 opposite the Clifton House, is fifty-six rods wide, and 
 about ten minutes are required to cross it. It is said 
 that tlie cloud of spray rising from the Falls can be 
 ■seen a hundred miles off, but I suspect that must be on 
 the American side. To give nn idea of the volume of 
 water which falls over the cliffs, a very ingenious cal- 
 culator has computed that 5,084,089,280 barrels descend 
 in twenty-four hours, 211,836,753 in an hour, 3,530,614 
 in a minute, 68,853 in a second. How many saw-mills, 
 tloui"-niills, and cotton-mills, this quantity of water vould 
 be able to sot in motion I cannot find anywhere stated ; 
 that it does turn some dozen or more wo had ocular 
 demonstration, and very unromantic blurs they are to 
 the beauty of the scenery. 
 
 I do not pretend to say that wo saw all I have 
 described, as we took our first gaze from the verandah 
 of our hotel. What we did see was a landscape of very 
 great beauty, unique, if not unsurpassed by others on 
 the face of the globe. After spending several days at 
 
276 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Niagara, viewing the Fulls in every direction, above 
 and below, on every side, and at each angle, we came to 
 the conclusion that although tliere may be notliing like 
 it in the world, and though it may be very mighty and 
 very grand, and full of ever -varying beauties and 
 attractions, yet that there are other spectacles in nature 
 more grand and beautiful — more sublime and attractive. 
 However, so far from feeling any disappointment, we 
 were very nuich delighted with the scene we beheld. 
 It Avas not so vast, so grand, nor so overwhelming, as we 
 expected, but it was fai* more beautiful, far more pic- 
 turesque, and far more attractive, than any accounts we 
 had read had prepared us lor. 
 
 All the writers I have met with have been so 
 occupied with describing their own sensations that they 
 have forgotten to give any account ol' the scenery, and 1 
 hope, therefore, my readers will pardon me for offering 
 them the somewhat prolix one I have attempted. After 
 looking at the scene for some time, as we were rather 
 fatigued from not having been in bed during the previous 
 night, and were, moreover, very hungry, we returned 
 to our rooms, and dressed for the two o'clock public 
 diniier. Nature being somewhat recruited with the 
 nund, we afterwards sallied forth in order, by a closer 
 inspection, to become more intimately acquainted with 
 the Great Fall. We hud formed a i)lan to see it on the 
 same principle on whicli we were viewing Canada, 
 namely, first to circle it round so as to get a sort of 
 general outside view of it, and then to visit the spots of 
 greatest interest in detail. 
 
 An excellent road runs along the top of the cliif, as 
 far as the end of the Horseshoe Fall, and along this we 
 l-;ent our steps, xinotlicr road, dire<'tly in front of the 
 hotel, winds down the clifi' to the river, across whose 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 277 
 
 irection, above 
 Tie, we came to 
 be notliing like 
 ery niigbty and 
 r beauties and 
 taclos in nature 
 1 and attractive. 
 )pointinent, we 
 ?ne we beheld, 
 dielniing, as we 
 , far more pic- 
 ny accounts we 
 
 have been so 
 ations that they 
 i scenery, and 1 
 me for ofFerinjj; 
 :empted. After 
 we were rather 
 ing the previous 
 y, we returned 
 
 o'clock public 
 •uited with the 
 ler, by a closer 
 acquainted with 
 to see it on the 
 iewing Canada, 
 :o get a sort of 
 visit the spots of 
 
 )p of the clitf, as 
 
 id along this we 
 
 In front of tlie 
 
 2r, across whose 
 
 troubled waters two small ferry-boats constantly ply, 
 pulled by slight lads. The landing-pliu;e on the opposiU' 
 side is within a few feet only of the American Fall, 
 and, consequently, crossing is often a very wetting 
 operation. 
 
 It appears also as if it must be a very difficult and 
 dangerous one, as the boat is tossed about by the waves, 
 and drifted rapidly down the stream for a few minutes 
 towards the voracious whirlpool, but in reality a back 
 eddy on either side makes it a very easy affair, without 
 the slightest risk whatever. The road we took is lined 
 with a collection of museums, curiosity sho})s, refresh- 
 ment booths, and raree-shows, where guides and cicerones 
 congregate; but fortunately, as the season was over, 
 most of the tribe had taken their departure, and we 
 were but little persecuted by their offers of st^rvice. A 
 number of Chinese pagoda-looking edifices and other 
 incongruous buildings have been erected on the Canada 
 bank, and others are rearing their ill-shaped forms 
 wlicrever a spot can be found whereon to perch them. 
 But it matters little ; the puny efforts and bad taste of 
 man, hi his attempt to adorn nature, can do little towards 
 spoiling Niagara. Its might and majesty can scarcely 
 he blemished by his Lilliputian efforts. 
 
 We walked on with high wooded banks on our 
 right, and the river on our left, till we reached a ledge 
 of rock projecting over the stream, and some twesity or 
 thirty feet only from the edge of the Great Fall, with 
 the top of which it is about level. This ledge is called 
 Ta])lo Rock. Notwithstanding its somewhat perilous 
 position — a huge crack running directly across it — and 
 knowing also that a portion had already lately given 
 way. and now lay in fragments below, wo ventured out 
 
278 
 
 ■WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 to the extreme edge, that we might there look the 
 mighty cataract face to face. There we stood, and 
 gazed our fill rnth a feeling somewhat akin to that 
 with which one looks at a newly-caugiit lion, having a 
 double row of stout iron bars between his claws and one's 
 own body. The cataract roared and raged, but near as 
 we were we felt be} ond its power. The deepest part of 
 the edge of the fall, just where it curls over before it 
 takes a perpendicular direction, is said to be seventeen 
 feet in depth. This is at the end, near which we were 
 standing. It comes along from the rapids above in a 
 solid rounded mass of deep-green colour, and descends 
 unbroken for some feet, when jets of foam burst from it, 
 increasing in number till it becomes one confused mass 
 of vapour. In other parts, the water the instant it 
 passes the edge breaks into froth ; in some it comes 
 foaming down Irom the rapids above ; here and there ii 
 spouts upwards from striking on some hidden ledge, 
 while the whole is ever moving, ever varying. Now 
 one portion is hidden, or only dimly seen as the wind 
 drives hither and thither the white clouds of spray— 
 sometimes one part is cast into shadow, then another as 
 the smi moves onward in his course — in the afternoon 
 giving the greatest beauty to the scenery on the Canadian 
 shore, in the morning to that on the American side. 
 From the point where we were standing, the concave or 
 horseshoe form of the Fall can best be seen. Near Goat 
 Island it bulges out like a huge buttress, and on scmie 
 rocks above water, on the top of this buttress^ the round 
 tower of which I have spoken has been built, with a 
 wooden bridge leading to it, supported on smaller rocks, 
 under which the waters rush, it jemg a few feet only 
 from tbp! pflcTp of tlio precinice= As t iO tower is built of 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS; 
 
 279 
 
 there look the 
 
 we stood, and 
 at akin to that 
 it lion, having a 
 5 claws and one's 
 ged, but near as 
 2 deepest part of 
 s over before it 
 
 to be seventeen 
 ' which we were 
 pids above in a 
 r, and descends 
 ,m burst from it, 
 B confused mass 
 f the instant it 
 
 some it comes 
 lere and there i'c 
 e hidden ledge, 
 
 varying. Now 
 jen as the wind 
 iuds of spray — 
 
 then another as 
 in the afternoon 
 on the Canadian 
 
 American side. 
 !;, the concave or 
 ^en. Near Goat 
 )ss, and on some 
 ttressj the round 
 jn built, with a 
 )n smaller rocks, 
 
 a few feet only 
 tower is built of 
 
 rough stone, without any architectural ornament, so far 
 from being out of keeping with the locality, it is a 
 picturesque object. 
 
 A few feet beyond Table Rock, by leaning over the 
 edge of the cliff, we could see under the water as it was 
 projected away from the cUff. It is on a narrow ledge 
 under this portion of the Fall that people, ambitious of 
 enjoying the largest shower-bath in the universe, are 
 conducted. From this spot, also, we always hoard th^ 
 roar of the Fall deepest and loudest, but even there it is 
 in no way deafening. Again, a few feet farther, we 
 stood at the very edge of the Fall, and I dipped my stick 
 into the fretting, troubled water. 
 
 Just at this spot we were told, by one of the best behaved 
 of g-uides (best behaved because he retired with a bow 
 when he perceived that his services were not required), 
 that five weeks ago a lady and gentleman were seen 
 standuig gazing at the Falls. Suddenly the lady sprang 
 from the side of the gentleman towards the precipice. 
 He rushed forward and seized her clothes, but they tore 
 in his grasp, and she plunged headlong into the frightful 
 abyss. Some six feet below the top of the cliff is a 
 narrow ledge, which, seen from the spot where we stood, 
 seemed scarcely capable of s^ipporting the feet of a single 
 ]>erson using every exertion to remain there. Yet on 
 this awfully perilous si)ot hung the unhappy lady. 
 Witliout a moment's reflection or preparation for the 
 almost certain death he braved, the gentleman sprang 
 down to where she convulsively clung. Just there the 
 cliff slopes slightly backwards, and is composed of loose 
 and broken stones. He seized her in his arms, and with 
 almost superiumian strength climbed up by this giddy 
 ascent to the summit of the cliff. " I would not for ten 
 
280 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 thousand pounds leap down to that place as ho did," said 
 the guide. I agreed with him that neither would I ; nor 
 would, probably, the very man who had lately perfbnred 
 the feat. The poor lady, Ave afterwards heard, was 
 slightly deranged; and the gentleman, who had so im- 
 |)rudently brought her to a spot so calculated to excite a 
 brain thus afflicted, of course felt that he must save her 
 or perish in the attempt. 
 
 We continued our walk through a copse by the 
 margin of the rapids, and then climbed up a steep bank, 
 among a variety of beautifully-tinted trees, till we reached 
 the open downs abo\'e. Thence, as we made a circuit 
 homewards, we caught occasionally most j 'cturesque 
 glimpses of Navy Island and the river, the foaming 
 rapids, the Horseshoe and the American Falls, Goat 
 Island and its little tower; indeed of all the points I have 
 been describing, seen now, however, far away down 
 below us. It was dark by the time we reached our 
 hotel, and we agreed that we had never taken a more 
 beautiful or interesting walk, or indeed seen so much of 
 novelty in one day. Since we last slept we had seen 
 Detroit, some hundred miles away, and Buffalo, and had. 
 us the guide-books say, " o})ened a new page in our life's 
 history'* by gazing for the first time on Niagara. 
 
as ho did,'' said 
 r would I ; nor 
 itelj perfbnred 
 ds lieard, was 
 lio had so im- 
 ited to excite a 
 ( must save her 
 
 copse by the 
 p a steep bank, 
 
 till we reached 
 niade a circuit 
 )st J 'cturesque 
 r, the foaminif 
 m Falls, Goat 
 le points I have 
 ir away down 
 e reached our 
 • taken a more 
 leen so much of 
 »t we had seen 
 Lift'alo, and had. 
 ii>-e in our life's 
 
 lagara. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 October the 8th was a lovely day, and late as was the 
 period of year, the air still retained the genial Avannth 
 of summer, at the same time thfit it was pleasantly mixed 
 with the briskness and freshness of autunm. N(»t to 
 give cause of offence to the American side of Niagara, 
 we had determined to devote the forenoon to an in- 
 spection of its b-'auties ; as soon, therefore, as breakfast 
 was over, with waterproof cloaks on our arms, we de- 
 scended by the Avinding-road which leads down the cliff 
 from the hotel to the ferry directly facing the American 
 Fall. 
 
 The bank on our right Avas covered with the richest 
 foliage of every tree, from the dee[)est red to the faintest 
 veil 
 
 ow, 
 
 and with everv variety of creen and brown 
 Avhich Nature's brusli can produce. Beyond this higlily- 
 coloured framework were seen the Falls, witli their green 
 and blue and whitened waters. A neat, well-built boat, 
 about sixteen feet in length, lay drawn up on the rocky 
 beach. In attendance on her stood a most uncouth- 
 looking lad, whittling to keep his fingers from being idle. 
 As we gazed at the white mass of raging foam hurtling 
 
282 
 
 WESTKRN WANDERINGS, 
 
 down the cliff before U3, and the whirling, eddying waters 
 which must be crossed before we could reach tlie oppo- 
 site shore, we felt that had we not seen the same slicrht 
 lad rowing backwards and forwards many times in the 
 day, we should have hesitated long indeed Ijefore we had 
 ventured within the power '^'' their fearful vortex. 
 
 " Well, my lad," said I, seeing that the whittling 
 ferryman did not move, "we should like to cross the 
 river." 
 
 "Step in, then," answered the youth, with a nasal 
 gro%vl. " You won't if you stand there." 
 
 We did as we were bid, and after whittling a little 
 more, and looking rip the road to see if other passengers 
 were coming, lie followed and shoved the boat into the 
 water. A back eddy enabled us to get up the stream 
 towards the great fall without difficulty, and then thrust- 
 ing forth into it, we were whirled downwards again many 
 fathoms in the direction of the winrlpool ; while clouds of 
 spray, driven by the wind from both falls, showered down 
 upon our waterproofs, till we looked as if we had been 
 diving under the very cataracts themselves. Our surly 
 Charon pulled right sturdily across the troubled tide, 
 when, much to our satisfaction, iuiother eddy caught our 
 boat, and took us up to a rough stage at the foot of a 
 perpendicular cliff, up which it was difficult to discover 
 how we should )nan:ige to ascend. It was grand to look 
 upwards through the mist, for not fifty yards from our 
 heads came thundenng down the American cataract, with 
 a fury which made us content not to approach it nearer. 
 The boat was now urged up a slide, and landing in a 
 dense slKjwer of spray, we found ourselves at the foot ot 
 a long wooden tunnel, with a railway and a flight of steps 
 within it leading to the top of the cliff: As we had no 
 
eddying waters 
 reach the oppo- 
 the same sHght 
 ny times in the 
 I Ijefore we had 
 [ vortex. 
 ,t t}ie wliittlincr 
 ke to cross the 
 
 1, with a nasal 
 
 whittling fi little 
 )t]ier passengers 
 le boat into the 
 
 up the stream 
 md then tlirust- 
 rds again many 
 
 while clouds of 
 showered down 
 f we had been 
 ,^es. Our surly 
 
 troubled tide, 
 idy caught our 
 it the foot of a 
 ;ult to discover 
 IS grand to look 
 yards from our 
 n cataract, with 
 roach it nearer, 
 d landincr in a 
 es at the foot ot 
 a flight of steps 
 
 As we had no 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 283 
 
 fancy to perform a labour which would be looked on as a 
 highly satisfactory penance ])y a pious Romanist, we took 
 our seats in a car ; and a bell being rung by our boat- 
 man, we were speedily drawn upwards into the interior 
 of a large shed, which we found stood on the summit of 
 the cliff. Dismounting, we paid sixpence to a man who, 
 pointing to a door, said, " There are the Fills." 
 
 The shuw-liko look of the place, and the man's in- 
 different tone, were dreadfully unromantic, and almost 
 made us fancy that we were going to see a painted 
 panorama instead of the reality. However, on passing 
 through a garden, and finding ourselves on the very edge 
 of tlie Fall, we instantly forgot the vulgar method by 
 which we had reached the spot. In a succession of the 
 wildest foaming billows the waters come ruslnng down 
 a steeply-inclined plane, till they glide in a compact 
 mass over the cliff, where they burst instantly into sheets 
 of foam. 
 
 Passing along the edge of these whirling, giddy ing 
 rapids, we crossed a small stream, a modest contribution 
 to the waters of Niagara ; then through a lumber-yard, 
 belonging to one of many saw-mills with which the 
 American Falls are adorned ; and finally taking the way 
 over a long wooden bridge to the .ight, thrown from 
 rock to rock, we crossed the very rapids themselves to 
 Goat Island. Looking upwards from the centre of this 
 bridge, the spectacle is indeed curious. From so much 
 greater a height do the waters of the rapids come than 
 that on which we were standing, making it impossible to 
 see the land beyond them, that literally they seem to be 
 leaping, rolling, and tumbling, in long wreaths of foam 
 out of the sky itself. On our left, bordering the river, 
 were flourishing rows of saw, corn, cotton, and l>aper mills ; 
 
284 
 
 WEST E n N W A \ DE U I NG8. 
 
 while others, in their lust of <rai„, had bohUy onoroached 
 
 into tlie very rapids themselves. Truly jonatlmn has 
 
 iimde good use of the uin-ivalled water-power at Jiis 
 
 disposal ; though we, in our romantic mood, felt a high- 
 
 souled contempt for the sordid minds which can nmkti 
 
 Niagara turn their mill-wheels on the very verge of his 
 
 own cataracts, like a caiitive i)rince (diain-d to mean 
 
 labour in the palace of his fathers. We were glad that 
 
 the Canadian side was free from. such incongruous orn;i- 
 
 ments, but we agreed not to make too minute in(|uiries as 
 
 to the cause. TJie pagodas and temples, and eatimr- 
 
 looths and nniseums, show that refined taste has not 
 
 much to do with the matter. 
 
 My readers must not be shocked at the unromantic 
 digressions I make, nor at the imcouth objects I describe. 
 I wish to paint Niagara as it exists in these days of civili- 
 sation, ot as tlie enthusiastic imagination of most writers 
 have pictured it to, the reading i)ublic. Ample enough 
 of grandeur and beauty remains to make it still the boast 
 of America. Perhaps, indeed, I may not be thanked by 
 some for blurring over the landscape ; but I would rather 
 be the means of aftbrding an agreeable surprise to some 
 future visitor now reading these pages, than the cause 
 of disappointment by i^resenting a too highly coloured 
 portrait. 
 
 The first bridge ends in a small island decorated with 
 a pavilion, containing Indian curiosities, walking-canes, 
 aiid refreshments, as also the residence of the custos of 
 Goat Island, to whom, by payment of one shilling for 
 each person, we were made free of the insular territory, 
 the property of a private individual, during cm- stay in 
 the neighbourJiood. Ilehind the pavilion a little wooden 
 bridge led us to another small island, on which grow 
 
WESTERN WAXDERINGS. 
 
 285 
 
 iMly oncroaclu'd 
 \y JonafhaTi has 
 iT-powcr At his 
 ood, fblt a hii'li- 
 'hich can make 
 sry verge of his 
 lain m1 to mean 
 ! were glad tliat 
 xmgruous orna- 
 iiite in(|uiric's as 
 Bs, and eatinif- 
 tasto has not 
 
 the unromantic 
 jects 1 descnl)e. 
 e days of civih'- 
 of most writers 
 Ample enough 
 t still the boast 
 be thanked b}- 
 : I would rather 
 Lirprise to some 
 than the cause 
 lighly coloured 
 
 decorated with 
 walkiug-canes, 
 f the custos of 
 ne shilling for 
 sular territory, 
 ig oiu" stay in 
 a little wooden 
 n which grow 
 
 several writhing twisted cedars. Hence the rapids aj)- 
 peared even to greater advantage than from the bridge ; 
 and more terror-inspiring, for, rushing towards us, they 
 seemed about to sweep the plot of ground and our own 
 precious persons to destruction over the Falls. An )ther 
 ;t«ut plank-bridge, j)assable also for carriages, carried us 
 over the rapids to (ioat Island ; iti which, by keeping to 
 he right, we discovered every point of interest without 
 difficulty, and free from the tiresome race of guides. 
 
 We followed the shore of the island some way, l>or- 
 dering the rapids, till, descending a flight of steps in the 
 bank, we found ourselves close to Young America, with 
 a magnificent view down the river, terminated by the 
 suspension-bridge, including the larger Ainerican fall on 
 one side, and the Clifton House, an object of no little 
 interest, on the other. 
 
 Crossing Young America by a wide plank, we stood 
 on a little island, or rock, not ten yaixls in cireumference, 
 with a rotu^ing cataract on either side of it. As we saw 
 the foaming water rushing round us, it required no little 
 mental exertion to recollect that, as probably the rock 
 on which we rested had there remained for centuries, we 
 need be under no immediate alarm t)f its beinir hurled 
 down over the clifi' before we could escape from it. 
 
 By grasping the trunk of a tree which hangs over the 
 fall, I managed to look down into the terrific abyss with- 
 out fear or giddiness. Not for worlds under ordinary 
 circumstances could I have gazed into so dreadful a 
 de[)th, but after living nuicli in the open air, travelling 
 over mountain heights, floatiiig on the ocean, or anior.g 
 any exciting scenes, 1 have invariably found that my 
 nervous system was so strung up and strengthened tluit I 
 
286 
 
 WKSTEUN WANDERINGS. 
 
 couM staiKl Avitli ploasuro on spots from which a short 
 tiiuo bt'tbro I should havo shrunk hack with horror, and 
 eoidd do many other thinf^'s which I shouM at other times 
 have found inipossihh\ 
 
 Ucturnin^r u]* the stcjis, we continued along tho top 
 of the (diff's till wo came hcforc a iriost lacturcHtjue view 
 of the IFor^seshot! Fall, with a fine foregroinid of richlv- 
 tinted trees on hroken hanks, imd the frothy stream 
 below, while the little tower came in apjtropriately on the 
 left ov(!rlookin<j; rlie cataract. The whole island is beau- 
 tifully \vo(Kh'd with a great variety of trees, and is as 
 romsuitic and intiin-sting a spot as the most enthusiastic 
 of meditative [»oet8 <^ould desire, 
 
 S6me years ago a young Engllslunan took up his 
 abode here, in a hut lie built with his own hands by die 
 side of the rapids. He sjjont his nights in ga/ing on 
 tho starlit waters, and his days in playing his flute 
 and writing fHX'try ; but whether he grew tired of such 
 unproductive amusements, or died in his madness, I 
 know not. 
 
 We next came to a signboard indicating that hard 
 by was the entrance to the Cave of the Winds. To our 
 eartldy eyes it looked like a wooden trough leading 
 perpendicularly down the clifi'; and as we had heard that 
 wet jacki'ts, not to speak of rheumatism and influenzas, 
 were the reward of those who ventui-ed into that ro- 
 mantic region, we d(>clined the exploit. The l .v< of 
 the Winds is, I believe, a cavern a hundred ard .'v. -a 
 feet wide and thirty feet deep, in front of whitdi descends 
 a part of the American Falls, When tlie sun slunes in 
 the afternoon, a perfectly cirtnilar rainbow can be seen 
 from it. I should think it is more worthy of a visit 
 
WE8TEUX WANDElJNOrt. 
 
 287 
 
 n which a short 
 with horror, and 
 M at othor tinu-s 
 
 'd along the top 
 m;tureH(|iie view 
 rouTKl of riclily- 
 ? frothy stream 
 *o|)riatcly oti the 
 e island is heau- 
 troos, and is as 
 iiost entliiisiastic 
 
 an took up his 
 \n \\ix\nh by Jie 
 ts in gazing on 
 aying his flute 
 v^' tired of such 
 his madness, I 
 
 ating that hard 
 
 ^'inds. To our 
 
 trough leading 
 
 ' had Jieard that 
 
 and influenzas, 
 
 1 into that ro- 
 
 The t^avc of 
 
 red art ^-.n' 
 
 which descends 
 
 le sun shines in 
 
 )w can be seen 
 
 rthy of a visit 
 
 than its rival on tlio Canadian side, but I shoidd wisli to 
 pay my respects to either of them in tln> dog-days rather 
 (iian at any other time i>f the year. 
 
 Descending a winding path, we reached tlio south 
 end of the Iloisesiioe Fall, where a wooilen bridge, some 
 forty yards long, or more, resting on a succession of 
 small rr)cks parallel with the very brhjk of the Fall; but 
 tJM'ee or four fwit from it tarried us to the foot of tlie 
 little tower, whence we ascended a sjyiral stair to a ])lat- 
 (orm on its sunnnit, surrounded by a light iron railing lite- 
 rally overhanging the great cataract itself. Here the sight 
 is grand and aw(vinspiring. We stood where thousands 
 had stood before ; but, as we looked up the river at the 
 widc-s])reading rapi<ls, and watclied the fiercely-foaming 
 mass come rushing down towards our resting-place, and 
 whirling under our feet, then taking its tremendous 
 phmge down into the caldron on the bri u of whicli we 
 stood, and sending up clouds of vap(..ir which kept 
 circling r(»und our heads, already somewhat confused by 
 the din and roar, a more than usual exertion of mind 
 was recjuired to feel tlie reality of the security we were 
 enjoying. Not that we experienced anything akin to 
 fear, more than the trained soldier does in the raging 
 battle-field. After we had encountered the first sliock 
 of this novel existence, though the wind blew' strong 
 round the tower — though tlu; frail fabric shook beneath 
 our feet — tliough the whiiding spray blinded our eyes, 
 uiid the roar of tlie cataract — for here indeed it did 
 roar — almost deprived us of the sense of hearing, such 
 only tended to excite and strengthen our nerves, all 
 other feelings were absorbed in the wild grandeur of the 
 scene. 
 
 For some time we were left to the full enjoyment of 
 
288 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 our sensations ; but at length anotlier visitor came, a 
 tall, lank, cadaverous fellow. '" Well, 1 say, can >-oii 
 tell me where the man went over the oth' day^?" was 
 Ids salutation. Sluulderinp-, I denied ali Oeli'ef in so 
 dreadful a catastr()|»h(', all belief in anything, oxcej^t tliat 
 I was looking do\vii into the raging caldron of Niaoara, 
 and wished hiin, not at the bottom of it, but safe back at 
 his home. Seeing that no information was to be gained 
 from me, he pulled out his guide-book, and therein'fbund 
 all he was to see, think, and feel. We left Iiim readiu"'; 
 and, as we regained the bank, we saw him deliberately 
 turning his back to the Falls atul busily employed in 
 carving his own great name, among thousands of others, 
 on the woodwork of the tower. 
 
 We now contimted our circuit of the romantic island, 
 passino- a si)ot where, between it and another little island,' 
 the waters rush with a fall of many feet, and where the 
 young iMiglish hermit dwelt in his log-hut. The hut, 
 as well as its occupant, luive long since disappeared. 
 
 Our steps were now hurried l)y the near aj)j)roach of 
 the hotel dinner-hour. Eating may be considered by 
 romantic youths and damsels a base interruption to the 
 time which should be devoted to the contenqdation of 
 grand scenery; but let them try Ik.^v very soon romance 
 would fade away without the modest invisible sui)|>ort of 
 food, and they will excuse our anxiety to return in time 
 to enjoy the entertainment provided for us by the Chfton- 
 House chef at two o'clock. We hastened aci-oss the 
 i)ridge, ran down the steps, were ferried over the river 
 by the young Charon, and climbed up the hill before the 
 rest of the guests hail taken their seats. 
 
 After dimier, we again sallied forth with our sketch- 
 books on a road leading down the river along the ei\s,o of 
 
in. 
 
 M'ESTEKN WAXDERLVOS. 
 
 289 
 
 !!• visitor came, a 
 I, I say, can }ou 
 otb' day?" was 
 i all Deliof in so 
 ^tiling, oxcojit that 
 Idroii of Niao-ara, 
 ;, but safe back at 
 I was to bo gained 
 and therein found 
 left Iiim reading; 
 r him doliberately 
 isily employed in 
 msands of others, 
 
 e romantic island, 
 other little island, 
 :^t, and where the 
 ?-hnt. The hut, 
 disa!)peared. 
 near a))proach of 
 le considered by 
 iterrnption to the 
 contem|)Iation of 
 ny soon romance 
 visible supi»ort of 
 :o return in time 
 us by the Chfton- 
 tened across the 
 d over the ri\ei' 
 lie hill before the 
 
 with our sketch- 
 iloncf the edcre of 
 
 tlie cliffs. At the distance of a mile from the hotel, we 
 reached the suspension-bridge leading over to the Ame- 
 rican side. It is supported by huge wooden-work pillars. 
 A vast structure (dose to it was in progress, with magni- 
 ficoit stone pillars, to support a tubular tnnnel which 
 was to contain a rJiilway for locomotives, a road for 
 horse-carriages, and another for foot-passengers.* The 
 river, where it rushes under the bridge, with calm but 
 ti-einendous force, is said to be one hundred and twenty- 
 five feet deep. 
 
 Since the opening oi' the Great Western Railway, a 
 considerable village has, I understand, sprung up in this 
 spot where then, besides the toll-house and a few cot- 
 tages and log-huts inhabited by workmen, there was not 
 a building to be seen. The jiighroad turns off to the 
 left; but, as wo were bound on anexplonng expedition to 
 the Whirlpool, we kept along the top of the cliff' through 
 a thick and very ]ncturesque wood. The path was so 
 sliirhtlv marked that we had no little difficrdty in tracinf 
 it. Now we climbed over logs, then among stumps — 
 sometimes close to the edge of the cliff", and often thi'ougli 
 beautiful woodland glades of greenest grass, where there 
 was no ]>ath whatever to be discovered. At last we 
 came u> the conclusion that we had walked ((uite far 
 enough to have reached the Whirlpool, but how to 
 lesiMMid tli(? bank to look at it was now our puzzle. 
 The sun had nearly set ; and as a fall over the jn'eci- 
 picc into the whirlpool lielow might be our fate should 
 we miss our way and get benighted, we became most 
 unromtmtically anxious to obtain a sight of the object of 
 our expedition, and to find the highroad again with as 
 little delay as possible. We made several attempts to 
 
 * This in now open. 
 VOL. I. U 
 
 ( 
 
 rri 
 
290 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 descend the bmtks, and I had already clambered down 
 some way, and might, in another moment, Jiave toppled 
 over, when we heard some voices above us, nd espied a 
 party of Americans, the driver of whose citrriage was 
 acting as their guide. Ho civilly showed us a imth we 
 had not observed, leading to a spot whence we could look 
 directly down into tiic basin of the Whirlpool. I have 
 seldom been in a wilder situation. We stood on the side 
 of an amphitlioatre of lofty cliffs, mostly covered with tree,;, 
 her? and there only the rocks appearing among them. 
 On our right the river, througli a narrow channel, came 
 roaring into the basin, and ultimately again made its 
 escape through an equally narrow passage on the other 
 side of a sharp point almost in the same direction. 
 
 I took a sketch of the same, my feet resting on a 
 scathed stninp which overhung the 'pool, and then we 
 climbed the bank, and exerted all our faculties to find 
 the way out of the wood again. Every instant it was 
 growing darker and darker. At first the wheel-;,racks 
 of the American party guided us, but that guide we soon 
 lost. However, by keeping the most open-looking ground 
 we at last, after a circuit of a mile or more out of our 
 way, found ourselves on a fine new j)lank-road, pleasant 
 walking for weaiy feet. S])ringing cheerily along, in 
 full enjoyment of the soft moonlight and the' bahny air, 
 with the suppressed nmrmurs of Niagara in our ears, we 
 crossed the new cutting of the railway to Quoenstown, 
 passed the susjiension-bridge, and reached our hotel in 
 time for th.^ last meal, a matter of some imjwrtance after 
 our day's hard exercise. 
 
iS. 
 
 Y clambered down 
 nent, liave toppled 
 e us, ind espied a 
 hose carriage was 
 ived us a path we 
 .^nce we could look 
 liirlpool. 1 have 
 } stood on the side 
 covered with tree,:;, 
 ing among them, 
 •ow channel, came 
 y again made its 
 sage on the other 
 ( direction. 
 
 feet resting on a 
 •ool, and then we 
 ' faculties to find 
 ry instant it was 
 
 the wheel-;,racks 
 tiat guide we soon 
 3n-looking groimd 
 
 more out of our 
 mk-road, pleasant 
 heerily along, in 
 id the bahny air. 
 [•a in our ears, we 
 7 to Queenstown, 
 hed our hotel in 
 
 importance after 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Niagara is not to be seen hi a day; and yet too pro- 
 longed a view even of its manifold wonders may wearv 
 as does any other great excitement. Happily Sandav— 
 that blessed day of rest from toil and the cares of \,he 
 v^-orld-came to our relief; and though we had no thought 
 of shuttmg our eyes to the beauties of God's creation 
 we resolved not to do any lionizing of the Falls. We 
 were, however, induced to take more exercise than we 
 intended, by hearing that divine service was to be fK>r- 
 foi-med at Cliippewa, and that we should find it an easy 
 widk thither. Accordingly, we set off across the open 
 downs, and enjoyed a very pleasant, thouirh a far longer 
 journey than we expected, heard service in a very neat 
 and well-arranged churcli, got a fine view of the river 
 heyond Navy Island and up to Grand Island, as also of 
 the )-apids, and found dinner nearly over on our 
 return. 
 
 As far as I could leai-n, one clergyman only has the 
 cai-e of souls over a wide and populous district, so that 
 tew of the inhabitants can benefit by his ministry. He 
 was to porfi)rn, service agaii. 'm the aftcnioon at Drum> 
 
292 
 
 WESTERN WANDEllINGS. 
 
 inondville, a village a little way above the Falls. When 
 it is possible, I think man is bound to give the best of 
 his strength and the first of his thoughts to the worship 
 of God. 
 
 In the evenhig we took a stroll, by the jiale light of 
 a young moon, to Table Rock, wliere we stood indelibly 
 im})ressing tm our minds the scene before us. Beautiful 
 and grand as it is, I cannot at all entek- into the feelings 
 of those (supposing people to feel as they write) who 
 sj)eak of Niagara as showing the greatness and power of 
 the Almight}^, who describe it as drawing them nearer 
 to heaven liy its sublimity, and talk of it as impressing 
 them with a sense of the insignificance of man, the little- 
 ness of human affairs, and very much in a similar strain. 
 Such terms, we agreed, are not only inappropriate said 
 often ridiculous, but approaching even to blasphemous. 
 The creative power of the Almighty is shown as nmcli 
 in the smallest of the creatures wLicli crawl the earth as 
 in the largest animal which has life ; and it appears to 
 me, that instead of fancying we hear His voice in the 
 roar of the cataract, in the rattling of the thunder, hi the 
 raging of the tempest on the billowy ocean, we might 
 rather consider, on such occasions. He has thonoht fit to 
 relax His omnij)otence over the elements. Justly we 
 may pray to Hun for aid against the injuries they may 
 inflict : but, looking on Him as we ought as a God of 
 mercy and love, we cannot associate strife, and tumult, 
 and disorder, with His attributes. Surely He created 
 rivi3rs to irrigate the land and to afford easy means of 
 communication to those dwelling on it Niagara is an 
 excejition to the ordinary rule. It was allowed to exist, 
 perhaps, as an ornament on the face of nature, or to test 
 the ingenuity of man to counteract the impediment 
 
WKSTEliX WANDEllIXGS. 
 
 293 
 
 offered to tlie free navigation of tliose inland seas. It is 
 no wonder, surelj. A poet may describe it as his fer- 
 vent imagination may dictate, but, in earnest unexag- 
 gerated prose, it consists simply of a good-sized river 
 falling over a very ordinary-sized cliff, and very, very 
 inferior in grandeur or in terror-inspiring power to a 
 storm on the ocean when lightnings dart from the low- 
 ering sky, the wind howls, and the waves, lashed to l\iry, 
 threaten the labouring shij). I^t us give Niagara its 
 due. It is a very beautiful sight, and more worthy of 
 a \isit than most sights ( though defend me from living 
 long near it), and Cousin Jonathan finds it very usi>ful 
 for turnhig his mills, and it luis afforded ample amuse- 
 ment for sketchers, and will afford subjects for the 
 painter's brush as long as the world lasts. 
 
 We crossed again tlie next morning to Goat Island. 
 An old man, standing on the bridge, was drawing out 
 fish from the most rapid part of the rapids. « Can fish 
 Indeed swim in these waters ?" I asked. " Little ones 
 can, but big ones get sent over the Falls, I guess," was 
 the reply. Such, thought I, is often the fate of the 
 great of the earth when they attempt to swim in troubled 
 waters. 
 
 We stood long in a shower of spray, watching a mag- 
 nificent iris forme<l on the mist rising from the American 
 fall, and I did my best to sketch the scene of which it was 
 the most attractive feature. Then we went to the top of the 
 tower, once again looked into the foamhi2 caldron, f^ot 
 almost drenched with the dense white showers which 
 came flying over, and looked at a still more beautiful and 
 curious iris. Three portions of a bow appeared on as 
 many different clouds of sj)ray, altogether forming an 
 entire b.jw. The i>;iri- on the left was formed on t])e 
 
294 
 
 WE8TERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Spray of the Great Fall, the centre on that of the Ame- 
 rican Fall, and the right on that which ascends from the 
 water projected to the right of tlie tower close to Goat 
 Island. Dark clouds gathering rapidly in the Avest gave 
 a more purely malacrhite tint to the edge of the Falls, 
 and l>rought out the white foam in greater relief, so, 
 wanied by the signs of approa(>hing rain, we hurried 
 home. It came in a pelting shower, but after dinner 
 we were able to pay a visit to Table Rock, when we 
 watched a number of wild fowl sporting on the edge of 
 tlie Fall. Now and then one would pitch on the hurtling 
 waters, when down it would be carried amidst the mass 
 of foam ; but, though we narrowly watched several thus 
 treated, we could not discover whether they ever again 
 rose, or were destroyed in the vortex below. Others 
 were flying rapidly backwards and forwards in the mist, 
 seeming to enjoy themselves, though I have some doubts 
 whether they were not more frightened than amused. 
 The boys in the ferry-boats shot those within their reach, 
 and several of the slain were floating in the eddy. Our 
 yomig Charon requested leaA'C to pull ott' into the very 
 centre of the beilhig current in order to pick up one he 
 had just killed, on which proceeding, however, I put my 
 veto till we were sife out of his Ixiat 
 
 In the evening several officers and gentlemen assem- 
 bled at the hotel to be in readiness to attend the cere- 
 mony of laying the foundation-stone of the monument to 
 be raised to the memory of General Brock, on Queens- 
 town heights, in lieu of the one destroyed by an Ame- 
 rican sympathiser of the name of Lett, one of the rebel 
 IVIackenzie's rag-tag followers. 
 
 Captain Baker, an old artillery officer, most kindly 
 invited us to visit him in the neishbourhood of Bvtown 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 295 
 
 at of the Amc- 
 cends from the 
 r close to Goat 
 II the Avest gave 
 ;o of the Falls, 
 sater relief, so, 
 in, we hurried 
 ut after dinner 
 lock, when we 
 on the edge of 
 on the luirtliiig 
 midst the mass 
 cd several thus 
 hey ever again 
 below. Others 
 rds in the mist, 
 ve some doubts 
 [ than amused. 
 ;hin their reach, 
 ;he eddy. Our 
 ff into the very 
 pick up one he 
 everj I put my 
 
 ntlemen assem- 
 ttend the cere- 
 le monument to 
 ck, on Queens- 
 ed bv an Ame- 
 )ne of the rebel 
 
 21', most kindly 
 lood of Bvtown 
 
 should wc bond our ste])s in that direction. As neither 
 of us had known of each other's existence five minutes 
 before. Colonel Irvine, who had come from Quebec, and 
 who kiiiw my brother there, having only just introduced 
 me, I a'; first thought that the invitation was intended as 
 a simp'C compliment, but, from the warm way in which 
 he pri sscd us to accept it, I felt sure that it would please 
 him as much as it would us if we did so, and accord- 
 ingly gladly promised, if we possibly could, to take 
 Bytt wn in our route, and to descend the Ottawa to 
 Mon real. 
 
 1 he next morning the weather changed verj' much 
 for the worse ; we, however, managed to take a walk up 
 the river along its banks to the upper part of the rapids, 
 whence the scene of the wild troubled waters, as they 
 rush on in a succession of huge, fantastically leaping 
 waves, seen through the beautifully varied tinted trees, is 
 very fine. 
 
 Mr. Street, ihe owner of the onlv mills that I know 
 of on the Canadian side near Niagara, has a lovely 
 residence on the hill above the rapids, and is well known 
 for his hospitality and kindnes ^. The mills are for the 
 manufacture of a coarse brown woollen cloth, which, 
 from its appearance, seemed very good and well fitted 
 for the climate. From the top of the liiH leading down 
 ti) Street's mills, 1 took a sketch of the rapids looking 
 eastward, and I think it will be found to give a very 
 good general idea oi the upper level of the Niagara river, 
 as well as of the appearance of the country on either side 
 of the Falls.* 
 
 Inst(>ad of turning down to the river, we kept on 
 through a turnpike to Drummondville, a clieerful large 
 
 * Beo A'igrvctte of Niagara. 
 
296 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Village, full of neat houses, and cottages, and several 
 shops, and small Jiotels, and lodning-h(Juse». We agreed 
 that on another visit to Niagara, we would rather"take 
 up our abode here, out of the noise of the Falls, and away 
 from the clatter vihich tlie concussion of the plunrjing 
 water causes all the windows to make hi its neiojibour! 
 hood. ° 
 
 Turning out of Drummondville to our left, we went 
 along a broad plank-road, kno^vn as Lundy's I.aiie, and 
 which has had the honour of giving the name to a ])attle 
 fought here between the Americans and British in the 
 last war. On the right of the road are two lofty wooden 
 frame-work look-out towers, held by rival owners, hi 
 each is stationed an old soldier who was at the battle; 
 one informs his visitors that the liritish won it, the other 
 gives the ])alm of victory to the Americans, thougli they 
 occasionally vary tlieir tales, as did tlie famous physician, 
 who suited his medi(;ine to Jiis patients' tastes. We got 
 the American version of the story from an old Republican 
 soldier, wdio assured us that the I^ritlshers were " wopped " 
 at Lundy's Lane. By his account, tlie Americans ha\ing 
 taken and destroyed Fort Erie, advanced to Chippewa, 
 where they drove the EnglisI, before them; thence they 
 marched on victorious, and twenty days aftenvanis 
 planted their cannon on a spot close beneath tho tower, 
 where now a graveyard is situated; that the British first 
 retreated, but again rallying, remained masters of the 
 field. My iiearty prayer is, that similar scenes of blood- 
 shed between kindred ract^s may never again be enacted 
 on that lovely spot 
 
 The view from the top of the tower is very interest- 
 ing, not on account of the battle-field below it— a mourn- 
 ful subject of contemplation, and which I would Ibr 
 
WESTEItN AVANDERIVG?. 
 
 S97 
 
 rather were wiped away from the mcinorv of man— but 
 from its extending over one of the ricliest and most 
 beautiful positions of the Ui)])er Canadian Peninsuhi. 
 Tlie eye can reach the waters of Lake Erie on one side, 
 and Ontario on the other, with numerous villages and 
 hamlets scattered between. 
 
 Some fifteen miles off is the British town of Niacrara, 
 a place of some importance, wlii(;h must not be con- 
 founded with the new toM'n of the Falls, nor with tlie 
 American town of mills and liotols close to the cataract. 
 The hotels at the American town are very larL'e and ma'T- 
 uificent ; but none of them have any view of the Falls, 
 so that a grei',t number of Americans come over to the 
 Clifton House. We saw the Clifton House with its 
 whiter establishment ; but in the summer, it is the most 
 frequented hotel in either province, and a very amusint' 
 place to spend some time at. There is a magnificent 
 ball-room attached to it, a reading and billiard -room, 
 and eight or ten private houses, where families can live 
 separate from the other g tests, attended on by their own 
 servants, and having their meals provided from the 
 hotel. There is also ;i large garden belonging to the 
 hotul, which is lighted uj) in summer nights with varie- 
 gated lamps, and must have a very pretty appearance. 
 For my own part I would infinitely rather avoid any- 
 thing to draw off my attention from Niagara itself ; but 
 JUS a few years ago I might have thought differently, I 
 will not rail against those who, amid scenes of grandeur, 
 can spend their time in amusements so frivolous as 
 dimcin<i and Hirtliiir. 
 
 We did not see all the sights of Niagara. I was 
 sorry to find that v/e had missed visiting a menagerie, 
 
2VH 
 
 WESTERN WAXDERING8. 
 
 containing all the animals of Canada, which would have 
 been excessively interestiiig to us. A favourite in^t 
 an.ma among the Canadians is the raccoon. We saw 
 several chained outside the doors of the cottages 
 hoy are something like pigs, with long brown Lr 
 and short yellow snouts; they seemed very tame and 
 fond of nuts. They make use of their clans like 
 moiikevs. 
 
 Xn the afternoon we went to Tal.le Rock, to bid 
 farewell to N,.g„r., peri.aps for over. A wo«]e„ »haft, 
 «.th a windmg stair, l.as been fonned t^ enable ,«o,,|.. to 
 defend the eliff. We found onr way down' it and 
 ,ms„,g under Table Rock, scrambled along till m; Jt 
 close to the Water-fall, and farther it wonid have bt^ 
 dangmus to proceed without a grtide. The s,u, h,a<l set 
 
 tl^ Fdls'^T "■" ''ft" '■"■"■ '"^ P"'^ ''8'" "''°™ 
 the 1 ,ble Rock; at our feet were large blocks of stone, 
 and the .ee.hn,g, creun.y, foaming waters, while before 
 us umc hundonng down the mighty cataract, half 
 concealed by the vast ma« of mist which rose fro;, the 
 cadron beneath it; and as T ga.ed, it seemed to assmae 
 the d,m outlme of some sage with Mowing beard and 
 s^cannng lock. I called Imn the Spirit of the'caL™. 1 
 that „,satmte bemg to whom the Indians believe m ist 
 evcty year be offered up two human sacrifices. Un- 
 .appdy, he never fails to obtain his due: the last victim 
 « as oiferal up bt.t a few days before, as I will narrat. 
 The sound here was ,„deed tenific, and I could scarcely 
 help f,„,cy,ng that the cliff was about fo fall and crush us 
 a. a p,u-t of ,t had lately done, and that the Spirit of tie 
 Cataract bad apj^eared to warn us of the da Ler r to 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 299 
 
 forebode our destined fate. At all events, we gladly 
 climbed up the shaft again to a safer position, where we 
 walked about enjoying the scene, watching a lovely pink 
 tint which glowed over the upper banks of the river, 
 vvliile the moon grew brighter and brighter, luid two 
 glittering stars came fortli, md shone over the hoary- 
 head of the S])irit of the Cataract. 
 
CIIAPTEK XVII. 
 
 We wer.- at length compelled to bid farewell to Klacvara 
 We had spent fixe very delightful davs within its in- 
 fluence; we had experienced many new sensations, and 
 had truly opened a fresh page in the journal of our 
 existence; but still I must own we were not sorry to go 
 away. We were literally fatigued with the roar and 
 tujnult of the watery spectacle, with the imceasing 
 concussion of the ground we stood on, and oh ! mosi 
 miromantic of causes, with the constant rattle and clatter 
 of the v.rV,aows of the hotel. In the bed-rooms, or tlie 
 eatmg-rooms, or sitti.ig-roorns, our eai-s were assailed by 
 tlie same ceaseless din, putting us forcibly in mind of the 
 passmg of a line of heavy omnibuses along the stone- 
 paved street in front of a London lodging-house. One of 
 the guests suggested that the windows were allowed to 
 
 be loose, that their rattling miglit give greater eff^xt to 
 the ± alls. 
 
 A visit to Niagara is, indeed, too exciting to be l„nc. 
 enjc^d,if aperson is ui all of an excitable ten.}>erament^ 
 we felt at last, as we should have done m a heavy gale 
 ot wind at sea, and experienced the same relief wlieii we 
 
 ■i ' 
 
WESTERN WANDERIN08. 
 
 301 
 
 got away from the neiglibourliood, as ono does on reach- 
 ing a calm harbc.ur after being tossed about on the 
 billowy ocean. We had engaged a carriage to convey 
 us through St. (Jatherine's, wliere some of th(? finest 
 works of the VV(illand Canal are to bo seen, to Hamilton, 
 whence we projKJsed visiting London, Woodstock, Paris, 
 and otlier places to the west, before returning U) 
 Toronto. 
 
 Our d'-iver was an Irish lad, and possessed of the 
 (loscriptivr jwwer so constantly found among all classes 
 of his countrymen. I was standing early in the morn- 
 ing, looking at the Ameri(;an Fall for the last time, when 
 he drove up, and descending from his box, touchod his 
 hat, and asked if I hnd heard tell of tht; dreatlful 
 accident which had lately occurred there. I replied, 
 that several versions of the story had been narrated to 
 nie, but that tliey materially differed from each other. 
 " Well, yer honor, as I was looking on for most of the 
 time, T can tell ye all al)out it," he answered. I cannot 
 give the account in the Irishman's own words, which I 
 regret, as they were most graphic and forcible ; but I 
 have endeavoured to throw as much as possible of his 
 spirit into uiy description. 
 
 On the evening of the 18th of July, three men were 
 loading a barge with sand on the American side of the 
 Niagara Iliver, some way above the Falls. The youngest 
 of them was Joseph Ebert, a fine, tall, active lad, of 
 about eighteen years of age. Their day's work being 
 concluded, one of tlunn proposed to try and catch some 
 fish for their supper before returning homewards. They 
 accordingly got into the small boat belonging to the 
 barge, and at once became completely engrossed in their 
 sport. No sooner did thev throw out their lines than 
 
302 
 
 WESTEKN WANDERINGS. 
 
 the bait was seized, and they very quickly had caucrlu «. 
 many as tliey could wish for, when tlie gathering "dark^ 
 ness warned them that it was time to pull to the" shore 
 btiil unwdhng to desist, they ^er. about to throw in for 
 the last time just to catch one more apiece, wlion the 
 boat gave a sudden whirl, liftin<x slightly on a ^^ave 
 Ihe UTiexpected movement now for the first time made 
 them look up to see where they had got to. Hom.r 
 seized their hearts, when they perceived, throuo-h the 
 thickemng gloom, that they were already withTn the 
 power of the dreaded rapids. They seized the oars, and 
 with trantic strokes endeavoured to pull towards the 
 shore. The fierce current carried them away rapidly to 
 destruction. They strained every nerve. The oars bent 
 with the force of their sti-okes. They shrieked in their 
 eagerness; the waters answered mockingly to their cries 
 In vain were all their efforts. No bark had wev floated 
 on tliat foaming tide and lived. Still hope did not 
 abandon them; like true sons of the Angh,.Saxon race 
 tliey exerted themselves to the last They might still 
 guide their boat, if she should escape the rocks in their 
 course, to reach Goat Island, if not the main shora 
 Alas I that .^aint chance of escape was denied them As 
 they tugged und tugged, with a strength udiich despair 
 aione could gn-e them, one of their oars broke, the next 
 Histant the boat came broadside to the current, and, 
 hurled against a rock, was histantly dashed to pieces. 
 I' or a few moments they struggled in tlie wild vortex, 
 and then the waters closed over the heads of two of tli^ 
 party foi- ever. One still floated, keeping his head above 
 tlie bodmg flood. Dreadful, indeed, were his sensations, 
 a^ he was tlms fiercely hnrried along to what he deemed 
 "levitable destruction. He approached the Falls; a few 
 
fS. 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 303 
 
 ;kly had cauglit as 
 e gathering dark- 
 I)ull to the shore. 
 'Ut to throw in for 
 
 apiece, wJion the 
 ?htly on a \\ave. 
 e first time made 
 
 got to. HoiTor 
 ved, through the 
 ready within tiie 
 ized the oars, and 
 pull towards the 
 
 I away rapidly to 
 '. The oars bent 
 shrieked in their 
 £^ly to their cries. 
 
 had e^■er floated 
 
 II hope did not 
 iiglo-Saxon race, 
 rhey might still 
 le rocks in their 
 the main shora 
 Allied them. As 
 h which despair 
 
 broke, the next 
 e current, and, 
 ished to pieces, 
 lie wild vortex, 
 Is of two of the 
 ; his head above 
 ? his sensations, 
 vhat he deemed 
 lie Falls ; a few 
 
 yards more only, and he must take that fearful plunge, 
 to be no more seen, when, directly before him, a])peared a 
 log of timber, firmly jammed between the rocks in the 
 stream. With a desperate effort he clung to it, and 
 succeeded in dragging himself out of the water. Hope 
 now revived; but still his position was full of danger. 
 Night had come on. No chance passers-by could see him, 
 and the roar of the cataract would drown his voice 
 should he cry for aid. How he passed that cb-eadful 
 night it is impossible to describe. When morning 
 dawned, he was seen by those on shore clinging to the 
 log. He soon discovered that he was observed, and he 
 knew that his fellow-men would rescue him if they could. 
 His dreadful situation quiekl}'- became known, not only in 
 the village, but throughout the country, and thousands 
 from far and near came hurrying to the spot, either 
 anxious to learn if means had been found for his escape, 
 or to assist by their own efforts in his rescue. The 
 position he was in was about half-way between the bridge 
 leading to Goat Island and the American Fall. The 
 bridge was soon crowded with anxious spectators; but 
 among them all there was no naval man capable of 
 talcing the command in any measures adopted for his 
 preservation. At first sight it miglit have appeared easy 
 to let a rope with a piece of timber float down to him, 
 with lashings by which he might secure himself to it, 
 and thus be haiJed up to tiie bridge ; but, dragged through 
 that tremendous current, there were many chances against 
 his being landed alive, even if the rope should withstand 
 the strain, or escape being cut by the sharp rocks which 
 tluu'e rise almost to the troubled surface of the water. 
 It was pa-'nful In the extreme to watch him as he clmig 
 to the log, which itself might any moment be washed 
 
304 
 
 WESTEIIN WANDERIXGS. 
 
 away. So near was he, tliat it seemed u hand miuht 
 ahnost have been stretcJied out to help Inm, and yet how 
 tar from human aid. Sometimes he would descend from 
 the end of the log jmd walk about on the rocks sur- 
 roundmg ,t, as if contemplating the possibility of reaching 
 di-y ground by swiunning or wading, till he was beckoned 
 back by the spectators. In the meantime, numbers 
 were at work to render him such aid as tlu^y c;ould 
 devise. Th,^ fij-st thing suggested was a raft. This they 
 formed by idacing a cask in the centre, with some stron. 
 tnnbers fastened over it in a square form, and seyer.-a 
 stout ropes secured to it on either side. The .pirits of 
 the poor lad revived when he saw the preparations 
 making, as did the liopes of the spectators. The raft 
 was launclied, and floated slowly down towards him All 
 watched it with anxiety ; but none could ha^■e felt as 
 did he for whose preservation it was intended. It swam 
 buoyantly on the waves-it drew nearer-it was almost 
 withm his reach-in anotluT minute lie might be saved, 
 when, alas! more of the rope was slackened than was 
 requisite, and sinking for a moment, it j.-unmed between 
 the rocks, kaWng the raft floating arcely a do.en feet 
 from hmi. A sigh of regret vm through the crowd; 
 but other means of escape for him might b. ^bund, even 
 should this fail. Ebert, still undaunted, maintained his 
 spirits. lie sat contemj.Iating the raft for some time as 
 If discussing in his mind the possibility of cbsengacnng 
 the rope from the rocks. Then bracing up his nerves 
 to the hazardous tusk, he slid down into the water and 
 waded out till he could reach the rope; grasping it, he 
 hauled, and pulled, jerking it up and down, m, after 
 some time and great labonr, he succoeded in fiv.in.. it 
 from the rocks which held it. The spectators shou'ted 
 
GS. 
 
 mod u hand nuVlit 
 
 I liim, and yet how 
 t'ould descend from 
 
 on the rocks sur- 
 (sibility of reacJiing 
 
 II ho was beckoned 
 lean time, numbers 
 ii(J as th(5j (;ould 
 
 a raft. Tliis they 
 , with some strong 
 form, and several 
 le. The spirits of 
 the pre])arations 
 taiors. The raft 
 towards him. All 
 ould ha\e felt as 
 tended. It swam 
 ?r — it was almost 
 e miglit be saved, 
 ckencd than was 
 jammed between 
 yccly a dozen feet 
 Aigh the crowd; 
 tit h ' ^biind, even 
 1, maintained his 
 for some time as 
 y of disengaging 
 g up his nerves 
 to the water and 
 ; gras])ing it, ho 
 do^v•n, till, after 
 led in fn'i.'in" it 
 ectators shouted 
 
 AVESTERX WANDEIlI^^GS. 
 
 .305 
 
 vith satisfaction, and still more so when they saw him 
 maafully towing tiie raft out of the strength of tlie 
 current towards the placti of his refuge. He was not 
 long in securing himself to the raft bj the lashings made 
 fast for that purpose, and hi giving the signal that he was 
 ready to conmience his feai-ful voyage. Those who had 
 charge of the raft commenced hauling away, and it 
 floated in the boiling current where the water was 
 deepest; tlu^n it sheered over towards the little islands 
 near Goat Island, and had reached within thirty fet4 of 
 one of th(mi in safety, when again the rope caught in the 
 rocks, and the raft lay in the most feai-ful part of the rapids. 
 Now more than a sigh— a groan of sorrow and com- 
 miseration, escaped from the bosoms of the spectators. 
 In vain those on shore hauled at the rope, fearful all the 
 time lest it should be cut by the rocks, and the poor 
 fellow ai'ter all be carried over the precipice. Ebert 
 himself could not now venture to ^nove lest he shouKI 
 hv washed^ off the raft. But th(;re were many gallant 
 heajls anxious to save him, though the wish to do so was 
 evidently greater than their knowledge of the best means 
 to ol>tain success. A boat was now brought overland, 
 and with a tow-rope secured to hei-, a volunteer bravely 
 shoved off frouj the island as far as he could venture 
 towards the young man. "Courage, Ebert! courage, 
 my lad!" he sang out; « we'll heave you a rope, and 
 just you make yourself fast to it, and we'll lianl you safe 
 on sli e." But Ebert shook his head. He felt his 
 strength failing, and feared that whih^ he was securing 
 the ro})e to his body he might be washed off the raft^ 
 V^'irious other plans were now pn^posed for getting the 
 raft or its occupant to the shore ; but one after [he other 
 was aba(Kh)Tied as beinn too fid! of vhk. Seldom ha^^ a 
 VOL. I. ^ 
 
306 
 
 WESTERN AVANDER1NG8. 
 
 human heing been j)Iaced in a position of danger so 
 terrific, v ot so close apparently to aid. As soon as lie 
 was discovered, some humane person had sent off to 
 Buffalo for a life-boat, under the belief that it would 
 more safely float in those troubled waters than one of 
 ordinary build. How frequently are the best intentions 
 tlie means of destroying those they are intended to aid ! 
 Had Ebert remained on his first resting-place, while in 
 the meantime food had been conveyed to him, till the 
 arrival of the life-boat, he might have managed to leap 
 into it, and have escaped the peril in which he was now 
 placed. However, at length the life-b(»at arrived by the 
 railway, was dragged down to the Falls, and with a 
 strong tow-line attached to her, was lamiched a little 
 above where the raft floated. With anxious gaxe poor 
 Ebert watched what was going forward. Now was the 
 time to summon all his energies. In another moment he 
 expected to grasp the side of the life-boat and be saved. 
 He cast off the lashings by which he was held to the 
 raft — the boat came floating down buoynntly towards 
 iiim — the lookers-on held their breath witli tlie intensity 
 of their anxiety — would the boat reach him, or would it 
 even then be dashed to })ieces in those fiercely agitated 
 waters? No ; she floats, she floats— the boat nears hiin 
 —she has touched the raft itself — Ebert sees her— the 
 courage for which ho has been so conspicuous through- 
 out this terrible day revives within him. A shout of joy 
 is heard — all think he is in safety. He springs up and 
 leaps towards the boat. Wliat means that cry of horror 
 which escapes from the crowd? Alas! he has missed 
 his aim, the boat sheers away from him, and he falls 
 headlong into the foaming current. " Haste ! haste ye 
 who hold the rope, slacken it out— let the boat di'op 
 
ms. 
 
 sition of danger so 
 d. As soon as lie 
 on had sent off to 
 elief that it would 
 waters than one of 
 the best intentions 
 re intended to aid! 
 iting-place, while in 
 ed to him, till the 
 ^e managed to leap 
 which he was now 
 )oat arrived hy the 
 Falls, and with a 
 ; launched a little 
 anxious gaiie poor 
 rd. Now was the 
 mother moment he 
 boat and >)e saved, 
 e was held to the 
 buoynntly towards 
 witli the intensity 
 h him, or would it 
 ie fiercely agitated 
 he boat nears hiin 
 3ert sees her — the 
 spicuous throtigh- 
 1. A shout of joy 
 [Ie springs up and 
 that cry of horror 
 s ! he has missed 
 him, and he falls 
 * Haste ! haste ye 
 let the boat di'op 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 307 
 
 down to him-he may grasp it yet ! » Still ho is not lost. 
 He rises to the surface — he strikes out l>oldly~his 
 foot touches a rock- he springs with the last efforts of 
 despnir towards the shore — he makes three or four 
 almost superhuman leaps— as many more, and" he will be 
 safe; but, alas! the water deepens -again he swims — 
 he swmis strongly in spite of all his exertions. Life is 
 sweet, mid Ebert has life, and youth, and strength : the 
 fair ^vorld, and its joys and pleasures. He seems to 
 makii way against that headlong tide; it was but for 
 a moment — the waters are too mightv for him — his 
 strength begins to tail— his strokes growVeebler— slowlv 
 he recedes from the shore— his straining eyeballs fixed 
 on those who would save him, but cannot. Now he is 
 home backward into the fiercer part of the current. All 
 ho])e has fled ; swiftly and more swiftly lie is borne 
 omvara towards the brink of that terrific precipice. 
 The unrelenting Spirit of the Cataract; claims the brave 
 youth as his victim. He has him as his own. No 
 human aid can avail him now. His fellow-men, those 
 standing around, sicken at the sight. In another 
 moment ho reaches the fatal edge, still full of life and 
 nervous energy. Even then he strives to combat with 
 his inevitable fate. Just as he reaches the very edge, as 
 if to gain one more look at the fair world he is about to 
 leave, ho sprhigs upright, clear out of the water— his 
 arms waving frantically above his head ; he seems thus 
 to stand for a moment, rigid and fixed, then uttering one 
 last fearful shriek, heard even above the ceaseless roar of 
 the torrent, he falls backwards, and the next instant is 
 hid for ever from human ken, amid those wildly foamini 
 waters as they fall into the river below. 
 
 " Oh, YQT honor, 3-0 may bclavc me, it was man\' a 
 
 %' 
 
308 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 m 
 
 night before J could got tlie sight out of my liead at 
 night of that poor fellow as I saw him last standing up 
 against the waters there, and shrieking out for mercy, 
 wliich was not for him in this world. Och, it was 
 terrible I" This remark was made by our driver just as 
 we entered our carriage, and with the sensations excited 
 by this horrible story still vibrating on my nerves we 
 drove away from the scene of its occurrence. I could 
 never again look at the sketch I made of the spot 
 without thinkiniT of the trafj'edv. 
 
 Accidents are constantly occurring at the Falls, and 
 when we consider the great number of people who visit 
 them animaily, this is not surprising. One of a very 
 sad description took place three years ago. A pai'ty of 
 Americans were spending the evening on Goat Island, 
 when one of the gentlemen took up a little girl, the 
 daughter of a lady present, and in a playful manner was 
 swinging her over the rapids, when he lost his balance 
 and fell in. The spot was some twenty feet from the 
 American Fall, where, though the water is shallow, yet 
 the current is so strong, and the stones so slippery, that 
 he could not regain his feet. lie struggled bravely for 
 some moments, still grasping the little girl, when the 
 fierce tide overpowering him, cai-ried tliem both together 
 over the Falls. 
 
 Not a year i>asses, indeed, but two or more persons 
 lose their lives in the Falls, or in the rapids above, 
 giving a sanction to the belief of the Indians that the 
 Spirit of the Cataract demands annually t\vo human 
 victims to appease liis anger. The legend would form a 
 good subject for a tale ; and I intended, while on the 
 spot, to have written one for this work, but Canada is 
 full of so much hiteresting redity that fiction, I feel, 
 
WESTERN WANDF.RINGS. 
 
 309 
 
 would bo out of place, and almost like an impertinence 
 to mv readers. 
 
 The morning we stju-tcd was cold and dull at first, 
 but the sun soon broke through the clouds and mist, and 
 warmed up the atmosphere to a most genial temperature. 
 Our carriage was open, it conveyed all our luggage, 
 and including all charges, we paid ten dollars and a 
 half from Niagara to Hamilton. We drove pleasantly 
 along over a broad road, tolerably well kept, with fine 
 clearings, ftirms, and orchards on either side. The 
 orchards especially attracted our notice, by the bright, 
 ruddy hue of the apples with which some of the trees 
 were loaded, and by the milky whiteness of the fruit 
 which others bore. In most of the farms we observed 
 huge piles of large red pumpkins near the orchards, and 
 sometimes in the open fields. Here they are not onl}' 
 used as food for man, but are given to the cattle, which 
 accounted for the quantities which had at first surprised 
 us. Soon after starting, we drove under a magnificent 
 arch of the Great Western Railway — quite like an 
 Egyptian work, from its solidity and boldness of execu- 
 tion. We crossed jmd recrossed the Railway constantly. 
 Great efforts were then making to complete it in the 
 time proposed, which was triumphantly accom])lished. 
 Among other unexpected objects were the elcctric- 
 t'ilegraph wires, which border nearly all the roads in 
 Canada, and convev a message for a few shillinjTs from 
 one end of the iJritish North American possessions to the 
 other. A traveller can thus, at a very small expense, 
 let his friends at home know of his progress, and where 
 his letters may be forwarded. 
 
 By the by, I found a young monkey near the Falls 
 one dav amusing himself bv haiilinir awav on the 
 
310 
 
 WESTEKX WANDERINGS. 
 
 telegraph wire, which ho reacherl by standing upon the 
 ■ i;:^^''^P^t-^vall of a bridge. [ h-ctured him severely on 
 His cnme, administering at the same time, with" my 
 stick, some forcible argimients against its repetition, L 
 on pnbiic grounds I felt bound to do. 
 
 The moi-ning was so cold that we were glad to wrap 
 ourselves closely in our plaids, when, bowling awav 
 through wood arul fell, we got into ecstasies with the 
 inexpressible brilliancy and variety of the lovely hues in 
 which the trees were clad. They can scarcely, we 
 agreed, properly be called autumnal tints, i'or that 
 conveys the idea of the presence of the original green 
 Now the great wonder to our eyes was the intense and 
 en ire redness of the red, the purity of the pale gold, the 
 ric liness of the apricot colour, the brilliancy of tlie rose 
 mid the depth of the crimson. Withal a great many' of 
 the trees were still green -some dark, and others with 
 the light, cheerful hues of spring, so that the effect of the 
 blended colours was perfect. Every turn of the roiid 
 brought us to some new combination, some scene more 
 beautiful tlmn the last ; and yet, lovely as were the woods, 
 they fell inhnitely short in fairy-like, romantic beauty to 
 some we afterwards travelled through beyond Hamilton, 
 t oets may sing of the beauties of Canadian forests in 
 autumn, painters may attempt to represent them, but 
 by gazmg on the reality alone can a true idea be formed 
 of their extraordinary appearance. 
 
 We had ordered the driver to take the road throucrh 
 w „ ^^^;"';"^''^' ^'" ^^-^^"i- to see a series of locks on the 
 VVelland Canal, by which a very considerable elevation, 
 called the Moiuitain, is surmounted. The stone-work of 
 these ocks is of the most magnificont description, built 
 to endure till the cliffs of Niagara give way, and an 
 
WE8TERX AVANDERINGS. 
 
 311 
 
 open channel is formed between Lake Eric and Ontario. 
 A clever account appeared some few years ago, doacrib- 
 nig in most graphic ttu'ms the destruction of the Falls 
 of Niagara. Numbers believed the story, and regretted 
 that they had not b( fore the catastrophe gone to see the 
 mighty cataract 1 lad they gone to see it they would 
 have been convinced that the Welland Canal is not 
 likely to fall into disuse for some centuries to come, in 
 consequence, at all events, of the open navigation of the 
 Niagara River, and that there is every probability of the 
 big waterfall remaining much in its present state, to be 
 looked at and heard to roar by crowds of adn»'ring 
 tourists for the same period of time. 1 have no doubt 
 that instead of dimhiishing, the railroads now open, and 
 opening, will very much add to the traffic on it by 
 opening up the country to settlers, and increasing im- 
 measurably its commerce. The finest locks which we 
 had expressly intended to see we missed altogether by 
 our Irish driver havijig taken another road, either to 
 avoid a turnpike or a hill, or to make a shorter cut. We 
 were, however, able to judge of their size by those below 
 St. Catherine's itself. 
 
 There were several steamers at the quays — either 
 screws or propellers — with paddles right aft, looking 
 somewhat like the haunches of some animal deprived of 
 its forefeet. There were also a number of sailing vessels, 
 many of them large three-masted schooners, fit, as far as 
 size was concerned, and in most other respects, to sail 
 round the world. 
 
 The Wei bind Canal is one of the most iniportant 
 works in Canada. It is about twenty-six miles in its 
 entire length from Port Dalhousie, on Lake Ontario, to 
 Port Colborne, on Lake Erie. It is fed from the Grand 
 
312 
 
 WE8TEKN WAiNDERINGS. 
 
 Kivcr by a fmk'i- of the- same leu^rtb. It has cost 
 l.2<)9,()0()^. There are thirty-nine locks, wliich are one 
 hun.bvd and fifty feet lon^r by twenty-six and a halt' 
 wide, and have about ten feet depth of water in tJiem 
 B -tween St. Catherine's and IMiorokl are found twenty of 
 these hx'ks, five of which luivo a fall of no less than 
 fourteen feet, wiiieh were those we wished to see. In 
 conse(|uence of tlie valitabJe water-power aflbr(k>d by the 
 canal, manufactories are springing up along its banks, 
 the most advantageous site beuig that between Tliorold 
 and St. Catherine's, where there is a fall of nearly thrre 
 hundred feet. Large as was the sum this canal (-ost the 
 colony, as in the year 1849 no kvss, I find, than 26o,326 
 tons of shipping passed through it up and down (an 
 amount of tonnage, since then certainly very nmch 
 nicreased, if not doubled), it has paid well. People in 
 Englimd, from the contemptuous wav it hiis been vul- 
 garly tlie fashion to speak of the colonies, have been 
 npt to fancy that Canada is very far behindhand the 
 States HI works of material progress. We had already 
 seen enough during the short distance we had driven this 
 da\ to prove the contrary. 
 
 To begin with the superb Clifton Hotel, then, there 
 wen^ the good broad roads, the well-cultivated f\n-ms, 
 the rich orchards, the railway embankments, viaducts, 
 and brklges, the flourishing villages and towns, and now, 
 histly, the magnificent locks of this wealth-bearing cjuial. 
 St. Catherine's has, as yet, a stniggHnii-, imfinished arn 
 l.earan<-e, as have all the towns in Upper Canada, as if 
 the houses had not yet got accustomed to each other's 
 society. It contains nearly four thousand inliabitjmts ; 
 and, as there are seven or more churches, it is to be 
 hoped that they are a God-fearing people. A town-hall. 
 
WESTEUN WANDERI N'flS. 
 
 313 
 
 l)uilt of ciU-stoiK', ji inarket-phico, two newspapers, six 
 ^rrist-inills, two woolK'ii factories, a saw-mill, two dis- 
 tilKu-ics, a brewery, and marble factory, indeed nume- 
 rous phices where niiuiy other braju^hea of industry are 
 carried on, and p(.'i-ha})s by the time these pages see the 
 light the numbers may be doubled, so ra])id is the pro- 
 gress towns jHissessing free communication with the 
 world now make in Canada. 
 
 While our man and his beasts were ri'freshing tliem- 
 selves, we walked down to the canal and looked at the 
 locks and the mills. I afterwards got into conversation 
 with a most intelligent negro, and commenced a series of 
 (juestions, which I put to a great luimber cf his race, to 
 ascertain if they themselves had ever thought of sug- 
 gestmg any plan by which the emancipation of their 
 brethren in the Southern States could be brought about 
 witliout the ruin of their masters and the utter demorali- 
 sation of tlio negroes themselves. The results I will 
 mention by and bv. He told me there are twenty-five 
 thousand negroes in Upper Canada, a large number of 
 whom are either emancipated, or have taken *' French 
 leave" of their masters. My friend acted as ostler at the 
 inn. He was contented and happy, though, as he told 
 me, he was alone in the world — no wife, nor children, 
 nor brothers, nor sisters — yet he had known them, but 
 tliey were all dead. Providence has kindly implanted a 
 conrented, uncomplaining disposition in the bosom of the 
 negro, enabling him to bear up against misfortunes which 
 would break the spirits of his white-skinned fellow- 
 mortals. 
 
 I own that I felt a m*eat interest in the success of the 
 runaway slaves, who find freedom, employment, and 
 kind treatment and syrnnathy in Canada, and contribute. 
 
314 
 
 WE8TERX WANDEKINGS. 
 
 in return, much to the prosperity of the country. Yet I 
 certainly do not hlimie the Southern shivtxmnera in 
 being anxious to prevent any Hudden einaiuipation of 
 those tliey hold in bondage ; yet, as their suicere well- 
 wisher, f urge them again and again to prepare for the 
 inevitable future, when the slaves must be pacifically set 
 free, or, should this not be done, when they will free 
 tliemsclves with bl.-otlshed, fire, and sword. 
 
 There is a se'rlenient of Christian Indians on the 
 Grand Kiver, the renuiant of a once |)owerfid tribe, jtart 
 of the Six Nations, now reduced to a few hundred peo[»Ic. 
 Wo found that it would prolotig our drive too nuieh to 
 enable us to reach Hamilton that evening if we visited 
 them: indeed, with the exception of a few of the chiefs, 
 who are superior in physical and moral qualities to the 
 rest, these so-called civilised Indians are generally a 
 very infej-ior race. In every look and action they seem 
 to feel their degradation ; for, though falling far short, 
 m reality, of the romantic character given to them by 
 Cooper, they were, at all events, lords o{ the soil, free to 
 roam where they listed and to fight with whom they 
 chose. Now they wear blanket-coats, weave mats, re- 
 ceive alms from the white man, and get drunk whenever 
 they can. 
 
 On the road we passed a figure worthy of appearing 
 in one of the great novelist's tales. He was an old man 
 — an Englis' man, we agreed — with long white locks, 
 aiid countenance shrivelled and bm-nt red by exposure. 
 He was driving a substantial waggon, full of household 
 property, and l)y his side sat an old red squaw, liis wife, . 
 with several ch ildren. In that space, probably, were con- 
 fcahied all his worldly goods and chattels. I had a great 
 fancy to know that man's history. There are many such 
 
WESTERN WANDEniNGS. 
 
 315 
 
 in tho colony — not vajtjabond.s, as we understand tlie 
 word commonly, yet wanderers — pediars and tinkers, 
 who arc known and respected wliercver they go — very 
 useful mcml)ers of society in a new country. 
 
 Seven n)iles, [)artly over an excellent plank-road, 
 took us to the river Jordan, and to a village so calltxl, 
 wliere we watered our horses. It is a very neat pretty 
 location, with a deep valley on one side, through which 
 flows the " Twenty-mile Creek," navigable from the lake 
 throe miles oil', and upward to near the village, for boats. 
 On tho left conunencc the wooded heights, called the 
 Mountain, wliicli extend all the way to Hamilton, and 
 contribute so nuich to the picturesi[uo beauty of the 
 scenery. An immensely long osik-bridge extends across 
 the river and valley to support tho Great Western Rail- 
 way. It is well worthy of remark tiiat, during the 
 whole day's journey, we were scarcely ever out of sight 
 of a house, cottage, or habitable hut or shanty. 
 
 The next village we came to, six miles from tb(! last, 
 was Beamsville, so cjUled by a Mr. Beam, who, seventy- 
 five years ago, settled on tho sj)ot where there stood only 
 three or four birch-bark shanties. The venerable patriarch 
 has lived here ever since ; and, perhaps to encourage the 
 younger part of the population to do likewise, only two 
 years ago took to himself a wife. Of late it has not 
 made much progress in extent, but the frame-houses are 
 being displaced by those of brick, a fair sign of the in- 
 creasing wealth of the inhabitjmts. It is surrounded by 
 a rich agricultural country, and many roads branch off 
 right and left to other hamlets; the black stumps are 
 also removed from most of the fields, though snake- 
 fences are still in vogue. These will give way ultimately 
 to rails or palings. The bridges, Hkewise, of loose planks. 
 
316 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Avitliout parapet or rails, were indications of a new coun- 
 try advancing so rapidly that alone time can be found to 
 finish the portion of works deemed absolutely necessary. 
 We drove on through well-cultivated ' land till we 
 came to Grimsby, another neat and pretty village, seven- 
 teen miles from Hamilton, standing close under lofty and 
 wooded heights, putting us in mind of many pictui'esque 
 places we had seen in Germany. While our horses 
 baited, by the advice of a gentleman, an engineer en- 
 gaged on the railway, we walked through the remains 
 of the forest for a mile till we reached the shores of the 
 blue lake. The evening had become very pleasant, and, 
 as we sat watching the placid scene, the calm lake, the' 
 yellow shore, the tall forest-trees, through the stems of 
 which the rays of the setting sun cast alternate lines of 
 light and shade, while not a sound was heard but the 
 scarcely perceptible ripple of the water on the sand, we 
 felt a soothing calm steal over us m. refreshino- after 
 the ceaseless boom of Niagara, and- to descend from 
 Pegasus— the rattle and jingle of the windows. 
 
 While waiting at the inn for our horses to be put to, 
 a spectacle somewhat unexpected in that quiet little 
 peaceable village made its appearance. A big gun, 
 with an officer and a party of artillery-men, marched 
 through the street and halted just before us. For a 
 moment I thought miotlier rebellion had broken out, or 
 that an army of Sympathisers were on their march to 
 the frontiers, till I recollected the ceremony to take place 
 the next day of laying the foundation-stone of a monument 
 to General Brock, and rightly conjectured that the gim 
 was to be most harmlessly employed in firing a salute 
 on the occasion. As all the world was going there, and 
 we heard that it would prove an interestincr sr.PPfnpl.. wo 
 
GS. 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 317 
 
 :>ns of a new coun- 
 ne can be found to 
 olutely nccessiiry. 
 ^ated land till we 
 3tty village, seven- 
 se under lofty and 
 many picturesque 
 Vvliile our horses 
 , an engineer en- 
 ough the remains 
 the shores of the 
 'ery pleasant, and, 
 he calm lake, the 
 lugh the stems of 
 . alternate lines of 
 as heard but the 
 on the sand, we 
 refreshing after 
 to descend from 
 indows. 
 
 )rses to be put to, 
 that quiet little 
 e. A big gun, 
 ■y-men, marched 
 ifore us. For a 
 d broken out, or 
 I their march to 
 3ny to take place 
 le of a monument 
 'ed that the gim 
 ri firing a salute 
 going there, and 
 inor spectacle^ wo 
 
 regretted that we had not arranged to be present. Our 
 rogue of a driver had agreed to take us to Hamilton 
 before it was dark, though we had scarcely left Grimsby 
 ero night came on. However, as a bright moon shone 
 forth, he seemed to consider that he had fulfilled his 
 contract. Had we not resolved to see the scenery, and 
 been, into the bargain, somewhat tired and very hungry, 
 we should have had little cause to complain, for the air 
 was soft and pleasant, and the moon amply lighted our 
 way. From his ignorance as to the situation of our 
 hotel, as he drove about looking for it, we had the oppor- 
 tunity of seeing more of Hiunilton than we expected, and 
 we were much struck by the width of the streets and 
 the height and size of the houses. Tliis was a place, 
 too, we had but a short time before fancied a small 
 village somewhere in the backwoods. At length, at 
 about nine o'clock, we reached the City Hotel, where an 
 excellent supper uiviting our attention restored very 
 speedily the equanimity we had lost. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Hamilton and Toronto are docidwlly rivals in the race 
 to wealtli and prosperity. The former contains ah-eady 
 some three or foiir-and-twenty thousand inhabitmits, the 
 latter three or four-and-fbrty thousand, yet Toronto was 
 a city before its sister had a name or location. Toronto 
 always affects to speak of Hamilton as that « aspiring 
 little city," in a half-jealous, half-affectionate tone, ^ 
 some youn^ pretty mothers, who have not cpiite mven up 
 dancing, wre apt to do when they see their dauLdifors, 
 just emerging from the school-room, standing oprmite to 
 them in the quadrille. In tins case, however, the simile 
 no longer holds good, for both cities may go on flourish, 
 mg side by side, increasing and prospering, till they rival 
 many of the largest in the Old World. We were truly 
 astonished with Hamilton, with its size and evidences of 
 prosperity, its admirable site for commercial purposes, 
 and tlie beauty of the surrounding scenery; in the latter 
 pomt, ('specially, it far surpasses all other towns in 
 Canada, with the exception, in certain points, of Bvtewn 
 and Quebec, which are, however, uuieiuo in their way. 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 319 
 
 rivals in the race 
 
 contains already 
 :1 inhabitiuits, the 
 
 yet Toronto was 
 >cation. Toronto 
 s that "aspiring 
 ctionate tone, as 
 ot quite given up 
 
 their daughfors, 
 tiding opposite to 
 vever, tlu' simile 
 7 go on flourish- 
 ig, till they rival 
 We were truly 
 and evidences of 
 lercial purposes, 
 ry ; in the latter 
 other towns in 
 3ints, of Bvtewn 
 
 in their way. 
 
 Hamilton stands on the shore of a deep bay, called 
 Burlington Bay. I sliould, however, rather call it a 
 small lake with a very narrow opening into Lake On- 
 tario. Above, or rather inside it, is another lake, reach- 
 inir as far as Dundas, now almost filled with sedces or 
 rice-plants. The Dundas Lake has also a narrow open- 
 ing into Burlington Bay. During some great convulsion 
 of nature, when the waters which covered the earth 
 came sweeping down towards the Atlantic, having first 
 filled the up-per lakes, one part found its way through 
 the Niagara River, while another came in this direction, 
 first filling the Dundas basin, out of which it escaped 
 by a narrow channel it formed for itself into Burlington 
 Bay. Here it met witii another impediment in a long 
 straight sand-bank, thi'own up probably by the first part 
 of the flood, and not liaving strength to clear the whole 
 away, it cut itself an outlet like an artificial canal. The 
 Mountain I have s))oken of, as sweei)lng round from 
 Niagara, rises about a mile and a half from this bay, 
 and on the intermediate space the city of Hamilton has 
 been laid out. The street in which the City Hotel is 
 situated extends from the water to the foot of the Moun- 
 tain. There are several other fine l)road streets parallel 
 to it, and others at right angles to them, with interme- 
 diate squares and open s])aces, some already filled with 
 churches, schools, and other pubhc edifices. 
 
 Hamilton contains more good hotels than any city in 
 Canada. The one we were at is not the largest ; but 
 the landlord, Mr. Davidson, is most attentive, the house 
 is most comlbrtable, and the provisions most excellent, 
 A new railroad hotel is about lieing erected to vie with 
 the finest in the States, and to be conducted, with certain 
 variations, on the American ]ilan. Probably, however, 
 by this time, in all the cities through which railways 
 
320 
 
 WESTERN WANDEUINGS. 
 
 pass new hotels will be erocted'to supply the wants of the 
 travellers tliey bi'ing. 
 
 My first business was to leurn the direction of Barton 
 Lodge, the seat of Mr. Whyte, to whom, us I before 
 mentioned, I had a letter of introduc'tion. Ho inherited 
 the property, which is situated on the Mountain, and 
 reputed one of the prettiest places in Canada, from his 
 brother, Colonel Whyte of the (niards. Thither, there- 
 tore, a.s soon as breakfast was over, I set off directly up 
 tlie street, m ith some really large, handsome villas on 
 either side of me, and then, ascending the Mountain by a 
 steep flight of wooden steps, 1 turned to the ri.dit, ad- 
 mu-mg the beauty of the view overlooking the dty,' the 
 bay, and tlie heights beyond, till I came to a turninir 
 when I jxidged it wi.e to ask my way of a man drivin.' 
 a team Following his direction, I .quickly reached a 
 lodge lik<, a park-lodge in the old country, and keepinc. 
 along a private road, soon steod before the house 1 was 
 m search of. I still Imd doubts v^'llether I was to find 
 the right Mr. V\^hyte after all, but they were speedih set 
 at rest when I was admitted and received a vnj kind 
 invitation to make his house our home wiiile we remained 
 in tliat part of the country. [lis only daughter is 
 "larried to Colonel Gourlay, the son of a ^vell-known 
 old Canadian settler, and their kindness and attention 
 increased the pleasure of our visit, while the infor- 
 mation they gave us added much te our store of know- 
 ledge. 
 
 I returned te Hamilton with Colonel (:;ourlay, and 
 walked back again A^ ith my wife. The day was one of 
 the most lovely of the numy lovely ones we spent in the 
 Upper Province. The atmosphere was beautifully clear, 
 and the sun was ])right: and though the air was warm, 
 tliere was a fvos\m,s, and purity in it whici, i.revented 
 
GS. 
 
 'ly the wants of the 
 
 lirection of Bar ton 
 ■liom, as I beforo 
 on. lie inhoi'itwl 
 le Mountain, ujid 
 Canada, from liis 
 . Thither, tliere. 
 sot off dn-c.^tly up 
 mdsomc villas on 
 he Mountain by a 
 
 to the riglit, ad- 
 ding the city, the 
 nio to a turniniT. 
 
 of a man driving 
 uickjy reached a 
 itry, and keeping 
 
 the house 1 was 
 ler I was to find 
 were speedily set 
 ived a very kind 
 iiih^ we remained 
 n]y dau«Thter is 
 uf a well-known 
 ss and attention 
 >vhile the infor- 
 r store of know- 
 
 ol (iourlay, and 
 day was one of 
 we spent in the 
 )eautifully clear, 
 e air was warm, 
 vhich prevented 
 
 WESTEIi?^ WANDERINGS. 
 
 321 
 
 our feeling either opi)ression or fatigue. Delightful as 
 was the day for a walk, it was with some difficulty that 
 1 could persuade the people at the hotel that we intended 
 to go on foot, and that I wished our luggage to bo sent 
 after us. Where horses and vehicles can be kept at so 
 cheap a rate, no one in the country thinks of walking 
 any distance, and that a lady should dream of such a 
 thing seemed a piece of eccentricity not easy to be 
 accounted for. 
 
 Mrs. Gourlay told us that she was looked upon- as a 
 V(:Ty odd person for having accompanied her father in 
 liis shooting excursions through the forests before she 
 was married, and it was reported that she carried a gun 
 and shot also ; which she assiu-ed us was not the case. 
 It was her delight, however, to collect specimens of the 
 plants and shrubs, to learn the names of the trees, and 
 the habits of the birds and beasts they met with. Few 
 ladies are, thercfere, more practically acquainted with 
 the natural history of the country than she is. On one 
 otx-asion they made a tour through the bye-roads to the 
 remote villages and clearings of the colony, and en- 
 countered so many amusing adventures, that we longed 
 to be able to follow their example. 
 
 Barton Lodge stands on the brow of the mountain, 
 with a precipice below it of one hundred and fifty feet or 
 so; the tops of the tall ti-ees appearing just below the 
 leA'cl of the gi-ound on which the house is built. The 
 view from the lawn is most lovely. Below, in front, are 
 the streets, the squares, the gardens, the railroads, the 
 churches, the colleges, the schools, the public halls, the 
 hotels, and the suburbs full of fine villas, in esse and 
 pom, of Hamilton; then there are the blue bay and 
 harliour, and the opposite lieights, with the Honourable 
 
 VOL. I. y 
 
322 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 Adam Fergusson's house and grounds. To the right is 
 seen the curious narrow sand-bank, which shuts in the 
 bay, with the narrow canal cut througli it, and its light- 
 house to mark its position, having at the south end a 
 rising village called Wellhigton Square. To the left of 
 the city appear the Burlington Heights, which separate 
 Dundas Lake from the hay, and over which now runs 
 the Great Western Railway. Between the heights and 
 the city is situated Durndrum, the castellated-looking 
 residence of Sir Allan Macnab, one of the oldest settlers 
 in that part of the country. More to the left, again, is 
 Dundas Lake, with the flourishing town of Dundas at the 
 end of it, while, on either side, along the edge of the 
 mountain, are thick groves of trees, left standing to 
 enable the purchasers of the building sites to lay out their 
 grounds with as nmch timber as they may require. In 
 some places the mountain goes sheer down to the plain in 
 a precipice of two hundred feet, and in several, deep 
 gullies run up out of the plain full of trees, the tops of the 
 tallest of which do not reach to the summit of the hill. 
 The whole mountain is, I believe, of limestone. It is 
 not a mere ridge; but an undulating plateau which 
 extends, at the same height, for many miles back into 
 the interior ; indeed, the height of the mountain is about 
 the general level of the country, which, however, slopes 
 gradually towards Lake Ontario. 
 
 Though a wide breadth of country lias been cleared 
 and brought luider cultivation, each fari.i contains from 
 ten to fifty acres of forest-land, which add most materially 
 to the beauty of the scenery; along the edge of the 
 mountain also, com])aratively few trees have been cut 
 down, so seen from the plain, it has the appearance of a 
 macmificent wood-crownetl ridm^. 
 
ros. 
 
 Is. To the right is 
 which shuts in the 
 ^li it, and its light- 
 at the south end a 
 are. To the left of 
 hts. which separate 
 er which now runs 
 en the heights and 
 castellated-lookincr 
 f the oldest settlers 
 to the left, again, is 
 i^n of Dundas at the 
 :ig the edge of the 
 ;s, left standing to 
 sites to lay out their 
 y may require. In 
 lown to the plain in 
 id in several, deep 
 rees, the tops of the 
 summit of the hill, 
 if limestone. It is 
 ;ing plateau which 
 ny miles back into 
 i mountain is about 
 ch, however, slopes 
 
 y has been cleared 
 'mm contains from 
 idd most materially 
 g the edge of the 
 ees have been cut 
 he appearance of a 
 
 WESTER \ WANDERINGS. 
 
 323 
 
 It would be difficult to find throughout Canada more 
 picturesque, and at the same time perfectly advantageous 
 sites for villas, than towards the edge of tlie mountain 
 above Hannlton, both to the right 'and left of Barton 
 Lodge. Probably, in a very few years, on the ground over 
 which we wandered amid the wildest forest scenery, 
 country-houses, and villas, and crescents, and even rows 
 imd streets, will stand thickly clustered together. 
 
 The great drawback to Hamilton and its immediate 
 neighbourhood, is the Dundas Lake and its marshy shore. 
 From the shallowness of the water, and the quantity of 
 decayed vegetable matter it contains, the vapours arising 
 from it hi the spring and autumn bring certain f ^ae on 
 their noxious wings. Truly the plague comes on their 
 wings ; fo- not only near the marsh, but to a considerable 
 distance along the plain under the foot of the mountain 
 and up the deep gullies I have described, the wind at 
 times blows the vapour, and as certainly as it does so, 
 tliose living within its influence suffer from the ague. 
 A family I visited, whose house was situated in a most 
 pictures(|ue position, a little way down the side of the ravine, 
 and but a few feet only from the highest part, of the moun- 
 tain, suffered sadly from a draught of air constantly 
 bringing up through tlie pass the vapours of the laJce, 
 which yet lay two hundred feet below them. Had their 
 house been built a hundred yards to the right of where 
 it stands, they would have probably escaped the visi- 
 tation. However, I should think that no more healthy 
 sites for d^vellings can be found in any part of Canada 
 than those overlooking Burlijigton Bay. I did not 
 henr that the ground on which Hamilton itself stands is 
 CO' sidered unhealthy, though in the summer the heat 
 is very considerable. When the wind blows over the 
 
324 
 
 WE8TE11N WANDERINGS. 
 
 Dundas inarsli, people very susceptible to ague may 
 suifer in a sli^lit degree; and most certainly shonlrl the 
 city as it increases not be properly drained and siipplioil 
 with water, from its position it will be visited by cholera, 
 fevers, and the other plagues which invariably follow the 
 neglect of such arrangements. I believe, however, that 
 pre])arations were making for carrying out a general 
 system of drainage, as also for supplying the city with 
 water. 
 
 In winter, Hamilton is a very pleasant residence for 
 those who wish to avoid the excess of cold, as it is several 
 degrees warmer than on the high land, and often almost 
 free from snow when the mountain is covered to the 
 <lepth of several feet. Taking the whole year round, 
 therefore, probably Hamilton is as healthy as any other 
 city in Canada, and «'ertainly superior to Quebec and 
 Montreal, which have frequently been visited by cholera, 
 when it has escaped. At the same time, I most earnestly 
 urge the inhabitants of a city, in whose prosperity I feel 
 the greatest interest, to make the most perfect sanitary 
 ai'rangements, or I must warn them that they must not 
 hope always to escape with impunity the fearful \'isita- 
 tions which have afflicted other cities in the Provinces. 
 
 The morning after our arrival, 1 accompanied Mr. 
 Whyte in a long walk to '\ number of the points of 
 interest in the neii]i;hl)ourhood of Hamilton, which he was 
 kindly anxious to show me. Descending the momitain 
 by a steep winding path, and keeping to the west of the 
 city, we directed our course to the spot of ground on 
 which the great Colonial Exliibition was held a few dap 
 ago. It was on an open elevated ^pace, a short distance 
 from the city, and with a fine view <.^' the bay and lake 
 from it. The more we heard of it, the more we regretted 
 
WESTERV WANDEKIN09. 
 
 325 
 
 not ] saving bncn present, as we should not only have 
 there met ti iiuniber of persons to whom wc had letters, 
 hut we should have become acquainted with a large and 
 important class of the })opulation of the Province. 
 
 Not far from it we went through the grounds of 
 Durndrum, the property of Sir Allan Macnab. The 
 house was shut up, as Sir Allan and all his family were 
 away, so we did not entei- it It is by far the largest 
 house in the Upper ]Vovince, somewhat in the old 
 French style of architecture; but as wood has been 
 more liberally used than stone, the imposing apjx.'arance 
 which it presents at a distance somewhat dei;reases on a 
 nearer approach. He is well known for the active part 
 he took . Avith other loyal men, in suppressing the Canadian 
 Rebellion. 
 
 Descending a steep bank through his grounds to the 
 shore of the bay, we found ourselves on the line of the 
 Great Western Railway, which, after leaving Hamilton, 
 runs partly on an artiticial embankment, and is partly 
 cut out of the clitfs before it turns off over Burlington 
 Heights. VVc proceeded along it, observing the works 
 going on, and had to run for our lives to avoid an ava- 
 lanche of rocks, which a few pounds of powder sent 
 iuu'tlinii'down from the cliffs above. We then turned to 
 our right over Burlington Heights. 
 
 1 mentioned that the Dundas Lake was comiected 
 with Burlington Bay by a narrow channel. Over this 
 it was necessaiy to throw a bridge to support the rail- 
 way ; but the ground on either side was so marshy a 
 short way under the soil, that the engineers considered it 
 better to cut a new channel sufficiently wide and deep to 
 allow a steamer to pass, and to throw a causeway over 
 the old one. This has been done through the narrowest 
 
326 
 
 WESTERN WAXDERINGB. 
 
 part of the liciVljtH, and as wo crossed over tlio bridge, we 
 , looked down t.n the deck of a little steamer which lay at 
 the bottom of the deep cutting. The railrt)ad then winds 
 away over the heights towards Toronto. 
 
 We saw a machine worked by steam for cuttintr 
 throiigli gravel or earth, which has been nicknamed tho 
 "Irish Navigator." It was rather a com])linient to the 
 sons of Erin tlum otherwise, for it seemed to get through 
 a vast deal of work very rapidly. 
 
 Burlington Heights would seem to be a beautiful 
 situation for building on, but, unfortunately, no water is 
 to be procured tliere. A sanguinary conflict took place 
 here between the English and Americans in the last 
 American War. We walked over tlie ground where the 
 slain lie buried. A few simple toml)stones still remain 
 to mark the spot. Subsequently it was used as the 
 burying-place of the neighbourhood; Init the stem iron 
 conqueror of the desert will soon obliterate all remaining 
 traces of the tombs and their mouldering occupant?. 
 My companion waited most patiently while I took a 
 sketch lookuig up at Dundas, and another doAvn the 
 bay. 
 
 Dundas Lake is full of wild rice-fields ; the stems of 
 the phmts are some ten or a dozen feet long, and grow in 
 water of that depth, so that they have the appearance of 
 islands. Imnimerable wild-fowl come here to feed when 
 the seed is ripe. 
 
 The lake is known by the name of Cootes' Paradise. 
 A Major Cootes came here many years ago, and being a 
 devoted sportsman, was so delighted with the abimdance 
 of game, that he built himself a hut and a canoe, and 
 defying ague and malaria, spent his days and nights on 
 the lake in killing ducks. He lived here for many years 
 
WESTERN WANDEKrNOS. 
 
 327 
 
 Cootes' Paradise, 
 ago, and beiny a 
 
 and never onco was ill. He probably, however, pos- 
 sessed one of those iron constitntions which no climate 
 afllvcts; but old Charon seized him at last and punted 
 him across to other Elysian fields. He has, however, left 
 Ix.'lund him a name, which will probably last till means 
 are found of draining the marsh and converting the rice- 
 fields into meadows. 
 
 The entrenchments thrown up by the British force 
 across the narrow neck of Burlingt(ju Heights still 
 remain, a short way in front of the spot where so many 
 of its defenders he buried. From the to[) of the mound, 
 we looked into an exceedingly prettily laid out Protestant 
 burying-ground lately (established. The views from it 
 extend over the lake toAvards Dundas. It has walks, 
 and flower-beds, and lawns, and shrubs, with marble 
 monuments and tombstones interspersed. At a short 
 distance oif is the Roman Catholic burying-gi'ound, laid 
 out nmch in the same style. These pleasant resting- 
 places for the bodies of the departed aid to rob death of 
 linlf his ideal terrors. They also prevent the horrible 
 custom which has so long existed of desecrating God's 
 temples by consignuig the crumbling remains of mortality 
 within their sacred walls. Why death should, of necessity, 
 be associated with churches, I coidd never comprehend. 
 Cliiu-ches are properly buildings, where living men either 
 with joyous or repentant hearts meet together to worship 
 the Creator, to praise Him, and to express contrition for 
 their sins. Praise and thanksgiving should ascend in a 
 pure atmosphere, amidst light and warmth. ¥'hen the 
 innnortal spirit has fled, what have the crumbling 
 remains to do with a church or prayer ? It may be a 
 fitting occasion for a minister of the gospel to point out 
 to the survivors the uncertainty of life when th2y 
 
328 
 
 WESTEUN WAXPERINOS. 
 
 assemble to see the dead deposited in its Inst restiiKT. 
 . place; hut surely tliat restin^r-pluce should not be where 
 the living eonf,'regate. 
 
 My wife eauie in from a jjleasant scramble throuirh 
 the woods with Mrs. CJourlay, laden with hiekory-niUs, 
 and butter-nuts, and nuts of all sorts; and maple-leaves 
 of every hue, of red and ])ink ; and beech-leaves, tinted 
 of delicate yellow and green; and many othcT forest 
 spoils. TIk; nnts we put in a bag; the leaves we pressed 
 in a book, where they still retain all their gorgeous 
 hues. I have since seen tables beautifully ornamented 
 with dried maple-leaves. If they are gummed on to the 
 wood, and then thickly coated with varnish, by which 
 means their lovely tints are secured for ages. The 
 ladies in their walk also came on an Indian burying- 
 ground, a cleared open space, long since deserted', the 
 only memorial remaining of a race, which, but a few 
 years back, dwelt in the land. IJow rapidly have they 
 passed away I 
 
 The next day, with my trusty stick in hand, 1 
 accompanied Mr. Whyte on a shooting excursion. lJi> 
 wards of seventy as he is, I had hard work to keep pace 
 with him over the snake-fences. TJKjugh we saw no 
 game, properly so called, he killed a few birds to show 
 liie. Among them were robins, large brown birds with 
 reddish breasts, which are said to make capital pies. 
 The blue- birds are most common, whi(.'h, with tlu>ir 
 bright azure plumage, as they Hit in and out among the 
 amber -coloured maple -trees, are very beautiful; but, 
 however, the greater number of Canadian birds have- 
 long since migrated to warmer climes for the winter. 
 The woods are full of squirrels of all sorts and sizes, 
 and the funny little, wee chip-monk often ran along 
 
WESTERN WANDEIUN08. 
 
 32U 
 
 the anake- fences as we past tliom. Mandrakes are 
 found in ([iiantities in the Hurton groves. The} grow 
 rather low, and have large Iriglit green leaves and 
 handsome white flowers. The fruit is liki; a tine yellow 
 plum spotted with red. ft is l>ulpy within a rind, and 
 has small seeds and a high flavour. When pulled uj) by 
 a strong hand it makes a {)eculiar sound. The wo(»ds 
 abound in beautiful wild flowers in spring, with varied 
 tinted humming-birds, and a great variety of the feiithered 
 tribe. 
 
 Mrs. Gourlay showed my wife a pond full of what 
 she ealled "snapping turtles," from a propensity tliey 
 have of biting at wdiite fingers. Tlie Anglo-Saxons, in 
 return, make soup of them. Sonu' were seen basking on 
 the stomas or logs, as they usually do. We eertainly 
 fancied that " snapping turtles " was a name given to 
 alligators ; but these, at any rate, are tortoise l)eastie8. 
 rVay-fish are also foimd in the streams and ponds in the 
 neiijlibourhood. In the thick woods there are several 
 sorts of snakes, some of tliem venojuous, especially the 
 rattlesuaki>. 
 
 Tlie F»iU'ton Lodge garden is very productive, as is 
 also the farm, so that the family have an abundance of 
 fruit and vegetables, eggs, milk, liutter, and cheese. 
 They kill their own mutton and beef, pork, lamb, and 
 veal; they grow their (jwn corn, and bake their own 
 bread, brew their own beer, and make their own candles, 
 and nuich of the sugar ; indeed, except groceries, wines, 
 and spirits, the farm supplies everything they require, 
 and yet there are only eighty acres under cultivation, 
 and some twenty or thirty kept for firewood. I'he 
 land near Barton sells for one hundred pounds per acre 
 for building on. By the common arrangement, the 
 
330 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 seller holds a niortgago on it, the amount to be paid 
 before the expiration of twenty-one years, bcai-iiig interest 
 at six per ceiit in the meantime. If not paid, he gets 
 back his land and all improvements on it. 
 
 We were highly amused will a friend's descrip- 
 tion of an Irish family in the iioighbourhood. '' Mr. 
 
 is a kind-hearted man, but not cut out for a settler. 
 
 His aunl, a good creature, lives with them, and toils and 
 slaves herself to death for the good of the children ; hut 
 there are certain people who are always in a nuiddle and 
 never get out of it. The men, instead of working on the 
 farm, are employed half the day in driving the pigs and 
 cattle out of the garden. And then they'll h:.ve a fort- 
 night's washing; and having hung out the clothes to dry, 
 will forget to take them in some night, so down come the 
 Indians from their settlement and make a clean sweep of 
 sheets, shirts, counterpanes, and all. Or else it comes on 
 to snow in the night, and the whole of the clothes are buried 
 some feet deej) under the earth's winter mantle ; and when 
 one goes to call some fine frosty morning, the men are 
 employed digging little frocks and ])inafores out of the 
 snow, instead of cutting timber for the winter's fuel. Or, 
 perhaps, as they are killing a pig, they take the barn- 
 door for a table, and forgetting to put it on its lunges 
 again, are quite suri)rised to find in the morning all the 
 cows playing sad J,.*voc among the corn." Oh, Faddy, 
 Paddy, you are a i-ight caiiital good fellt)W, but you are 
 nmch the same all the world over. 
 
 We took a delightful drive one day in Mr. Whyte's 
 waggon to the Ancaster Springs — the scenery most 
 beautiful, hill and dale, and forest and lake, and distant 
 views and quiet homes, bits refreshing and pleasant, 
 interesting glimpses of Hamilton. Dundas. and Burlintrton 
 
WESTERN WANDEUING8. 
 
 331 
 
 Bay; land splendidly farmed, large orchards, whose 
 dark-green trees were richly laden with garlands of 
 brilliant apples; often the fruit grew so close together 
 that it was like the great strings of onions they hang up 
 in the shops. And as to the etfulgence of the foliage, no 
 words can properly describe it — bright crimsons, delicate 
 yellows, purples, reds, browns, greens, light and dark, 
 pinks, — indeed, the whole contents of a colour-box appeared 
 in every variety of combination ; an ^ when we fancied 
 that we had seen a spectacle whici uld not be sur- 
 passed, another turn in the road brought, us to a fresh 
 scene still more gorgeous and brilliant. vSom of the 
 fields were of great extent, not sur[)assed in the model- 
 farms at home, and scarcely a stump was to be seen. 
 As I before mentioned, thesp woods cover st^ldom more 
 than forty acres of ground- each farmer keeping that 
 quantity to supply himself with firewood and fences, or 
 for building purposes. They are, therefore, just of suffi- 
 cient size to preserve the l>eauty of the scenery without 
 detracting from its cultivated appearance. In some 
 parts of the country, unfortunately, such deadly war has 
 been waged against the forest, that scarcely a tree has 
 been left standing on many estates, totally destroying the 
 natural beauty of nature's face, and depriving the occu- 
 pants of what they are now much in need of — fii-ewood 
 and timber. 
 
 On the highest spots on several of the farms, we 
 observed tombstones and monuments, railed in as in an 
 English churchyard. The custom of burying the dead 
 on these apots was introduced befort^ churches and 
 public burying-grounds were established, and l.»y many 
 farmers is still ke}>t up, either because the public places 
 of seuultm-e are at a distance, or because they do not 
 
332 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 like to part with the remains of those they liave loved in 
 life. Some, perhaps, having no particular prejndice in 
 favour of what is called consecrated ground, keep up the 
 custom because it is an old custom, and they do not 
 require tlie spot for any other purpose. Those dissenting 
 from the Church of England chiefly maintain the system. 
 
 We passed a great number of cottages orn(5es and 
 small houses, principally belonging to gentlemen, or to 
 men who have raised themselves to independence by their 
 mdustry. Captain Hammersley has lately bought a 
 cottage and a line farm, which we passed. 
 
 We drove through Ancaster, the 'ongest established 
 town in that part of the country. It consists of a long 
 street with a number of scattered houses outside it, and 
 contains an extensive cloth-manufactory and some flom-- 
 mills. About a mile from it is the spring, which was 
 the object of our expedition. It is in a deep hollow, 
 surrovmded by trees, and bubbles up into a cask sunk for 
 its reception. Its chief ingredient is sulphur ; but it has 
 little of the rotten-egg taste generally found in sulphur- 
 springs ; and after taking a tumbler or two, I foimd it so 
 refreshing and strengthening, that during the remainder 
 of my stay, I took no other liquid, and carried a bottle 
 or two away with me to drink on our journey. It is 
 found most efficacious in curing that most difiicult to 
 be cured of diseases, dyspepsia; and many who have 
 been long suffering from stomach complaints have gone 
 to reside in the neighbourhood, and, having taken the 
 waters regularly, have been completely relieved. 
 
 While Mr. Whyte fill(Ml a numbJr of l)ottlcs he had 
 brought for the purpose with tlie healing fluid, I having 
 drunk two or three tumblei-s of it with nuich gusto, sat 
 down to make a sketch of the romantic (1(>IL a fresh- 
 
WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 333 
 
 57 have loved in 
 lar prejudice in 
 nid, keep up the 
 lid they do not 
 Those dissenting 
 itain the system, 
 iges ornt^es and 
 ;entlernen, or to 
 sndence by their 
 at(?ly bought a 
 jed. 
 
 gest established 
 insists of a lonir 
 I outside it, and 
 and some flom'- 
 •ing, which was 
 a deep hollow, 
 a cask sunk for 
 hur ; but it has 
 md in sulphur- 
 vo, I foimd it so 
 I the remainder 
 carried a bottle 
 journey. It is 
 lost difficult to 
 laiiy who have 
 flints have tione 
 ving taken the 
 'lieved. 
 
 P bottles he had 
 ; fluid, I having 
 luch gusto, sat 
 ^ dell, a fresh- 
 
 water stream which runs througli it, and the green 
 lawn which lines its banks ; but in vain I attempted to 
 do justice to the amphitheatre of gorgeous foliage which 
 surrounded us. 
 
 In the neigh bourlKiod are a number of chestnut- 
 trees, to which peo})lo come in pic-nic parties to gather 
 the fruit. It is, however, very much smaller than the 
 Spanish chestnut, and even than many I have seen in 
 England. We discovered that what we called lignum 
 vita; is the white cedar. It has clusters of yellowish- 
 looking berries just like it. Dog-wood is harder even 
 than iron- wood or horn-bean, of which an axe can be 
 made, and made to cut as well, probably, as some served 
 out to our troops in tiie East. Dog-wood is not so 
 common, nor does it grow so large. It has Avhite flowers in 
 sjn'ing, and its leaves are of a dark purplish red brown, with 
 red berries in clusters like those of honeysuckle. There 
 are many kinds of nut-trees, the leaves seemed all more 
 or less like walnut or chestnut, but smaller, — hickory- 
 nut, butter-nut, bitter-nut, chestnut. There are many 
 varieties of oak — .some with very large broad leuves, otheis 
 fine and deeply indented. They are now of magnificent 
 crimson and l>roAvn shades. The lovely maples, how- 
 ever, surpass all other forest trees in this their own 
 native land, with their tender bright green rich amber, 
 bright rose pink, pale gold, softest, fiiintest yellow ; and 
 they coquettislily love to hang out their gayest colours 
 near the deep sombre stems of the grave old pines, wlio 
 stand immoved by the changing fashions of the seasons, 
 as if the} despised such frivolities. Bass-wo(jd turns out 
 t*) be the lime ; and tamarack, which sounds such a fine 
 wild Indian kmd of a tree, is nothing more nor less than 
 a larch. In tlie same way the ac«cia is called the 
 
334 
 
 WESTERN WANDERINGS. 
 
 locust-tree. Then there are magnificent beeches, and 
 tliey cliange then- colours most beautifully. One sees 
 tiie clear shiny green towards the centre of the tree 
 getting paler and yellower, till at the tips of the branches 
 tliey become brightly golden. We have also seen many 
 very large weepiiig willows, as well as numerous 
 sumachs, now of a dark red colour. Tlie ground on 
 which they grow is almost as gay and brilliant as the 
 leafy canopy above, what with the various greens of 
 many grasses, crimson bilberry, and many berry- bearincr 
 shrubs, yelk,w needles from the old pines, and numberless 
 leaves which lie fresh fallen on the surface. Alas ! that 
 so rich an habitation should be deserted by most of its 
 g4ily-dressed feathered inhabitants; but, luxurious epi- 
 cure« that they are, they find that the fruits are withered, 
 tJie berries have lost their juice, and the seeds are 
 scattered on the ground, and they have gone to more 
 genial regions, where bountiful nature affords an ever- 
 constant repast. But a few blue-birds remain, and 
 bright and beautiful they looked, as they flew in and out 
 among the amber-coloured maple-leaves. There are 
 also woodj)eckers and robins; the latter, I believe 
 remain all the winter, and ai^e somewhat m appearance' 
 Ike their tnendly Httle namesakes in England, with their 
 brown jackets and red waistcoats; but thev are much 
 larger, and are treated in a very different way, for they 
 are shot without compunction, for not a bad reason, that 
 they make excellent pies. With this learne<] dissertation 
 on the natural history of the peninsula of Canada, J must 
 conclude the chapter. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Some of our friends tell us that the Indian summer has 
 hegun; that it may last ten days, or a fortnight, or a 
 month, and that then the winter will set in with all its 
 rigour. Others say that we are only enjoying the fine 
 autmnnal weather of the Upper Province, that we shall 
 have a little blowing, and raining, and mist, and that 
 then the real Indian summer will commence. However, 
 we are well content to enjoy the present, and nothing 
 can be more delicious than the atmosphere in which we 
 exist, thougii the air is sufficiently warm to make 
 sitting out-of-doors in the shade pleasant The rays of 
 the sun are hot, yet there is a lightness, a freshness, a 
 purity in the atmosphere, which enables us to take as 
 much exercise as we desire without feeling anything like 
 oppression or fatigue. The signs of the Indian suuuner, 
 we were told, are a perfect stillness in the air, a warm 
 sun, and a thin gauze-like im"st hanging over the whole 
 face of nature and obscuring all distant objects. 
 
 I had been taking a view of Hamilton from between 
 the trees on the lawn of Barton Lodge, when one 
 morniniT; as I went out to put in a few finishing touches. 
 
a.^fi 
 
 AVF.STERN AVANDEUINGS. 
 
 colour-box in lianil, I loiiiid ihc view ohacurod l)y just 
 such ii mist. ii.s I huvo dcscrilii'd. *' Well, lioro i^ the 
 Indiiin suinnior conio a*- all evciita," I oxclaiinwl, as I 
 oiitorod till' bivaktast-room. '* Wo must make the most 
 of it and soo us much of tlio country m wo can before 
 till- winter sets Iti." " Don't be frijrlitoned aliout it and 
 buny yourselves," answered our bost. " Don't trust to 
 the (!roakers. 'Diis weather may last till (/hristinas, and 
 I see no ri'ason why it should not this year." Froai 
 letters I received from him when 1 was at Quebec, I 
 found that hc! was rii2:lit in his proonostievitions, and that 
 the tine weather histed till the S'vi'y eiul uf the year. 
 
 People in lOiiirland are ai)t to lia\e very cirroneous 
 notions of the climate of Upper Canada in winter, because 
 they form them from what they have heard of that of 
 tlie Lower Province, and es[H'<ially of Quebec, Avbereas 
 the I'limates are tot^dly diftennit. While we in the latter 
 place wciv rnnnini!; about over the snow with blue noses, 
 and fini^cr-tips without sensation, our friends at Toronto 
 and Hamilton were still enjoying warm autunui weather. 
 Indeed, the winter in the Upper Province is scarcely 
 nu»re than half the length of that in the Lower, and tiot 
 nearly so cold; imb'ed, it is not ('older thiui at New 
 Vork or Boston, and no one in England ever thinks of 
 dreading the rigour of the winter in those places, fn- 
 dei'd, I suspect, that (hiring tliis very winter, the inhabi- 
 tants of Ibiuiilton suffered less from cold than did our 
 friends in England. 'However, as the climate of Canada 
 is a subject of nuich interest, I shall discuss it more at 
 larr^e by and by. 
 
 I took several walks into Hamilton with Mr. Wliyte 
 and Colonel Gourlay. Hamilton not only supplies the 
 immediate neighbourhood Avith goods, but has a largo 
 
V obacurod l)y just 
 
 'Well, hm' i/tho 
 
 I cxoIiiIuuhI, as I 
 
 lUst iimko the most 
 
 ry us we can before 
 
 it('ii(!tl aliout it niul 
 
 it. " Dtm't trust to 
 
 till (/liristiniis, and 
 
 this )Ciir." From 
 
 was ut Quebec, I 
 
 Dstleutions, aiul that 
 
 :ul of the year. 
 
 live very (!i-ron(>ous 
 
 a in winter, because 
 
 ■0 hoard of that of 
 
 of C^uebec, Avhereas 
 
 bile we in tlie latter 
 
 ow with blue noses, 
 
 • friends at Toronto 
 
 m autunui weather. 
 
 'rovince is scai'cely 
 
 tlie Lower, and not 
 
 )ldor thiui at New 
 
 ;land ever thinks of 
 
 I those places. In- 
 
 ' winter, the inliabi- 
 
 cold than did our 
 
 ?. climate of Canada 
 
 discuss it more at 
 
 on with Mr. Wliyte 
 >t oniy supplies tho 
 Is, but has a larjie 
 
 WEHTKRN WANDEIUNGH. 
 
 ,3.') 7 
 
 whol<'sale trade to furnish a wide extent of the intc-rior 
 of the eonntry, in wliich are a nnudiei of ilourishing 
 towns and villa(r(>s. I was nuich struck with the extent 
 ;ui(l handsome apprarane,(^ of many "f the stores, over 
 which th..' pr(.|.riet..rs must politely shnw.'d uk^. Shops 
 are often ( .dh-d - ,sf„n.s" in the colonics ; but these I speak 
 of are enormous wan li.»us(«, (tontainmu' goods of ('very 
 possible description -Hrocii.rs, i rot. mono cry, woollen and 
 cotton manuhictures, wines, bool^s, conlaae, silk ;. shoes, 
 hats, and .luiliinn of .-very dcss. liption- incK'od, when a 
 customer enters, he cxprct to find everything I,,. re~ 
 (piires. Some only supply the sho[)-keepers in the 
 smaller towns and villages in the interior, wliil.; others 
 retad a pomxl ufMigar, a paper oi" pin-, (»r a penknife. 
 Among others, I went over the stores of Messrs. ]{. 
 .Inson and f'o., Iat(;ly erected, with a very hands(.me 
 stoiic I'n.nt, as aho another still larger belongimr to 
 Mr. Hudiauan, late mcnd)er for Hamilton. Mr. Kerr, 
 Mr. liejmer, Mr. Dsbonie, and Mr. M'l.aren, most po- 
 litely show^'d me over ihcii- very flourishing establish- 
 ments. Mr. Ibit lianan look uk^ through every d.-part- 
 menl. vvhich, tluiugh under the .same roof, is k<'pt per- 
 fectly separate, each flr.or havino it., pendiar line of 
 trade. The wines and -p'rits were' under-groimd, the 
 groceries and iron-nunmfactures on the ground-Hoor, the 
 woollen on tla- first floor, thr cotton on tli.^ next, and the 
 silks and ribbons on the next. I had never seen any- 
 tliing in F.ngland at all to be compared to the.se colonial 
 ^'eneral stores. \\y degr(>es, however, trade is dividing 
 Itself, and wine-merchants, and hardware merchants, and 
 wo(dlen merchants, are making ihejr appearance in the 
 larger commercial cities. 
 
 i he ndiabitajits <>i' Hamilton are very proud of their 
 VOL. 1. Z 
 
338 
 
 WESTEKN WANDERINGS. 
 
 city. It is an honourable boast with lliem that it has 
 risen to its present fiourishin<j!: comh'tiun entirely by the 
 exertions of its eiti/ens, and that tliey have never re- 
 ceived the slightest pcu'uniary aid, either from the home 
 or colonial govtirnnients. A gentleman told me, that 
 eigliteeu years ago only, when he came here, there was 
 but one brick or stone house in the place, all the rest 
 wer<3 of wood ; and now there are numerous shops, and 
 warehouses, and private dwellings, and public edifices, 
 churches, banks, and hotels of substantial l)rick, or with 
 handsome stone fronts, and many entirely of s'<mc. 
 
 We visiUid a very well-conducted mechanics' institute, 
 iwith a aood reading-room belonging to it. Also we 
 went into the public ball-room, wliich is well-proportioned 
 and handsomely decorated, and fully as large as the 
 Hanover Square Rooms in London. Concerts and publi(; 
 meetings are held here. Among other establishments, 
 which show the size and flourishing condition of the city, 
 is that of Mr. Lawson, the tailor, who employs a hun- 
 dred workmen and two sewing-machines (an American 
 invention, I believe). It is the largest in Canada. 
 
 In an open space, near the centre of the to mi, is a 
 handsome stone bin'lding;, the National School, for the 
 children of the inhabitants of all rclijiious denominutions. 
 The only charge is one shilling a-week for each boy, 
 which goes towards firing, .m important item of ex- 
 pense in the winter season. The boys seemed to be of 
 a very respectable class, ha})py, intelligent fellows. 
 
 Excellent stone for building purposes is pvocuj-ed from 
 the freestone and limestone quarries in the mountain di- 
 rectly above the town, and this gives a remarkably hand- 
 some and substantial a[)pear:mce to all the houses. A 
 number of villas, especially thoi?e standing on the rising 
 
8. 
 
 WESTERN WANDEKING8. 
 
 339 
 
 lliem that it has 
 in entiroly by the 
 J have never re- 
 ;r from the horpe 
 in tohl nie, that 
 
 here, there was 
 ;)lace, all the rest 
 ueroiis shops, and 
 d public edifices, 
 ial brick, or with 
 ly of s'one. 
 lichanics' institute, 
 
 to it Also we 
 well-proportioned 
 as larm- as the 
 )ncert?i and public 
 er establishments, 
 ulition of the city, 
 
 1 enj ploys a hun- 
 les (an American 
 in Canada. 
 
 of the town, is a 
 
 I School, for the 
 ins donominutions. 
 ek for each boy, 
 tant item of ex- 
 
 seenu;d to be of 
 mt fellows. 
 3 is procui'ed from 
 
 the mountain di- 
 remarkably liand- 
 
 II the houses. A 
 :n<i; on the ris^in^ 
 
 ground under the mountain, attracted my attention from 
 their elegance and si/A-, and I could scarcely believe that I 
 was in a city which a few years ago was not in existence. 
 Hamilton was laid out A.i). 1813, but for a long 
 time made little pi-ogress. In 1845 it contained only 
 6000 inhabitants, in 1850 they had increased to 10,200; 
 and, incredible as it may seem, their imnd)ers have since 
 then more than doubled, and they now amount to up- 
 wards of 22,000 persons, while, i>rol)ably, this veiy year 
 4000 or 5000 more will be added to them. Hamilton 
 contains some fifteen or more churches or })lac{!S of jniblic 
 worship, some of them very elegant structures. Manunon 
 has also his temples in five banking establishments, of 
 which the handsoiuest building is that of the Bank of 
 British North America. This bank has branches in all 
 the towns of any size in Canada, the elegant buildings 
 belonging to it contrasting strongly \\'ith the very un- 
 pretending office in St. Helen's Place, London. I had 
 hitroductions to several of the managers, and feel most 
 gi-ateful for the kindness and attention tluy showed us 
 in their private capacity. 
 
 Besides Mr. Davidson's City Hotel, which we found 
 so comfortable, there are the Burlington House and 
 Hamilton House, both large, well-conducted establish- 
 ments, the latter frequented njostly by Americans. Se- 
 veral gentlemen connecUid with the railway are also 
 building an hotel of the largest size and magnificence, 
 such as the constant influx of visitors will require, To 
 add to the attractions of the place, a tlieatro also was 
 building, and is by this time open. 
 
 The streets are laid out at right angles, with many 
 open spaces. King Street is the main street, and is 
 very wide ; James Street and John Street, very har-d- 
 
340 
 
 WESTERN WANDEIUNOS. 
 
 sonw tliorouuhfaros, load Irom tlu- hurbour lor flio Jis- 
 taiu'o of two mJlf'K or more to tlic mountain uj) whicli 
 thoy riso, with pittLy villas on oithor side, till tlirv reach 
 the toot of the cliH's. Tlu; Market Scimire is a fine open 
 space, and the ooiirt-honse and gaol stand in another 
 handsoni<> s(|iiare; indeed. Avilhout entering more into 
 particuhirs, Hamilton is rapiiil} becoming one of the 
 handsomest and most flourishing cities in North America. 
 
 Land in the outskirts sells for biiildhig purpostis at 
 ab(»ut 300/. per acre. It is a favourite mode servants 
 have of investing tlu'ir mon(>y in purchasing one of the 
 small lots into which each acre is divMed, so tiiat, when 
 jthey marry, they have at (jnce a spot on which to build 
 a cottage. Something very like the truck system is 
 emplo\'ed here by builders, who have little or no capital 
 A builder <'oes to a store-keeper, and gives him a. mcn't- 
 iiaixe on the bouse he is about to build, getting in re- 
 turn so many hundred pounds' worth of tickets, of the 
 nominal value ol'five or ten shillings eat-h. With these 
 tickets he i)ays his workmen, and for them the receiver 
 can take out the value in goods at the stoi'e. Instead of 
 a mortgage, the budder perhaps accepts a bill at six 
 months' date, and allo^^■s the store-keei)er twenty per 
 cent for the acconunodation. A meeting of the principal 
 jnerchants was held lately at Hamilton to pnt a stop to 
 this very obnoxious system. There is mnch of it on the 
 Ottavva 1 was told. 
 
 Having met Mr. Brydges, the resident manager of 
 the Great Western Railway, he invited me to attend the 
 dinner and fete to be nivrn in honour of the opening of 
 that important line of connnunication. I regretted not 
 being able to wait till then. Mr. Why to afterwards 
 sent me a full account of it. Mr. Brydges was on the 
 
W ES'IEUN W A N DEUI N GS. 
 
 341 
 
 our for tlio dis- 
 ntaiii up which 
 B, till tlicy reach 
 re is a fine open 
 taiid in another 
 ering more into 
 lin^i ono of the 
 1 North America, 
 ling pnr|ioses at 
 ) mode servants 
 lasing one of the 
 'd, so that, when 
 [1 which to huild 
 truck system is 
 :tle or no capital. 
 ive.s him a, mort- 
 ;1, getting iji re- 
 jf tickets, of the 
 Lch. With these 
 leni the receiver 
 to)"e. Instead of 
 pts a, bill at six 
 L'))cr tuerity per 
 jf of the principal 
 to put u stop to 
 rmch of it on the 
 
 dent manager of 
 me to attend the 
 of the opening of 
 I regretted not 
 ''hyte afterwards 
 dges was on the 
 
 point of starting to irispert the line in tlio direction of 
 
 Niagara, and I was glad to 
 company him. 
 
 Close to the railway tern 
 
 a(x;e 
 
 pt hi 
 
 s mvitation to ac- 
 
 unus IS a Jarn;e iron 
 
 -foiuidi 
 
 own.Ml by Messrs. M'Questin, which has just been re- 
 moved from James Street for the greater convenience of 
 transporting the goods. 
 
 The engines have large funnels, with net-work tops 
 
 to catch the sparks as they fly ui)wards. We waiti'd for 
 
 some time for an engine to convey us, bat as it did not 
 
 come, we started in an open car worked with a crank by 
 
 two men ; and away we went in this novel conveyance at a 
 
 great rate through the forest. Still no engine appeantd, 
 
 so, after we had gone some miles, we stopped and walked 
 
 a mile along a temporary branch-rail, formed to bring 
 
 ballast from the shores of the lake to the main line. 
 
 Mr. Brydges having looked at his ballast and 1 at the 
 
 lovely blue waters of the lake, we walked back to our 
 
 car. On our return, as we were going at a rapid rate 
 
 down a hill, with a steep trench on either side, Mr. 
 
 Brydges' quick eye espied an obstacle in the way, and he 
 
 had just time to stop our human-power locomotive when 
 
 we came upon a log thrown across the road, with a spade 
 
 stuck deep into the earth before it. Some villains had 
 
 evidently placed it there to injure us, and we nn'ght liave 
 
 been killed or very seriously injured. However, though 
 
 probably the fellows were watching us in the wood, we 
 
 agreed there would be no use in attempting to hunt 
 
 tliem down; indeed, as it was already late, we were 
 
 anxious to reach Hannlton. Mr. Brvdires told me, that 
 
 he calculated the expense of forming a railway here was 
 
 about a third of the first cost of one in P^ngland; but 
 
 then, again, as in England, the works are of a far more 
 
 I 
 
342 
 
 WESTEUN WAVDEKING8. 
 
 suhstuntial clmrju'tor, thoy arc calrulatcd to last very 
 much longer, thua di'(ToaHin««; tlu^ dineretice in tlie end. 
 
 This (lay was the warniest ami the most perfect 8in(;e 
 our arrival. The tints on the trees were most heautilul, 
 untl as we cranked alon^ in our primitive ear throuj^h the 
 cutting in the forest, it was like rushing through a vast 
 kaleidoscope, so rapid were the changes oFcolours. Still 
 the most heautiful view in the neighl)ourhoo<l is that of 
 the city from our friend's lawn, which I have sketched; 
 and ndthiiig can sur^-ass the rich glow which spreads 
 over the plain as the sun sinks towards the horizon. 
 
 This is a great cider coimtry, and fruit of all de- 
 scriptions is ahuudant. There are very fine melons and 
 water-melons, peaches grow as standards. There seems 
 to he much good feeling among the rural population 
 caused by nmtual depi>ndence. Farmers help one an- 
 other to thrash their corn. There are also travellinjr 
 thrashing-machines, which require eight liorses and 
 twelve men to work them. The ma<;hine receives three 
 dollars for each hundred bushels. The labourers live on 
 buckwheat -cake, molasses, fat pork, and api»le-sauce, 
 and sometimes muttoii and custard, and receive about 
 three shillings each per day. Wood-cutters get good 
 pay. For splitting and l>iling up they receive one shilling 
 and sixpence per cord, and for cutting up fit to burn two 
 shillings in addition. There is a great fire-wood market 
 in Hamilton, when as many as eigiity waggons como into 
 the city together. Beech, maple, and hi(;kory, are the 
 best woods for burning- -bass, pine, and poplar, are not 
 so good. When a piece of land is to be cleared, the 
 trees arc; cut down three feet from the ground, and in 
 six years the stumps rot, except those of the pine-tree, 
 which must be rooted out. Trees cut when the sap is 
 
WESTERN WANDEUINGS. 
 
 343 
 
 tod to last very 
 lice in tlie end. 
 Host perli't't since 
 •e most beautiful, 
 i car through the 
 y through a vast 
 of colours. Still 
 rlnxxl is that of 
 [ have sketched; 
 V which S})read8 
 he horizon. 
 
 fruit of all de- 
 fine melons and 
 1. There seems 
 rural population 
 jrs help one an- 
 3 also travellintj; 
 i^dit liorses and 
 no receives three 
 labourers live on 
 and apple-sauce, 
 id receive about 
 cntters get ^ood 
 :eive one shilling 
 p fit to burn two 
 fire-wood market 
 iggons como into 
 bi(;kory, are the 
 1 poplar, are not 
 
 be cleared, the 
 
 » ground, and in 
 
 of the i)ine-tree, 
 
 when tlie sap is 
 
 up rot much sooner, but the w h„| ;•, , ,>t so good. Oxen 
 wi)rk better than do horses anioi.^, che stunii.s. Coals 
 cost seven dollars a ton, and t - " -, about e.pial to four 
 cords of wood for domestic purj Fuel fur two fires 
 
 costs about 18/. a-year. The -out of a sinjdl stone 
 house, fit for a gentleman t.. • a, is from 5U. to 751. 
 a-jear. A person may livi.> at a good ht>tel for about fiv(.' 
 dollars })ei' week. About thirty steamers beloncr to the 
 port of liamiia)!!. Two fine large steamers run from it 
 to Oswego !?nd back every day. 
 
 Mr. Whyte keeps all his meat in a stone cellar during 
 the winter, without actually freezing it. He will liav(? 
 two oxen, eight or ten sheep killed, and a certain number 
 of pigs and snialler animals hung uj) in the cellar, lie 
 has also a root-house underground, in which potatues, 
 cauliflowers, and all sorts of xegetables, arc preserved 
 free from tlie frost during the winter. Nowhen? did I 
 taste such delicious breatl as he bakes at home, and, to 
 wind up his kindness, when we departed he bestowed 
 two magnificent loaves on us, which lasted us for many 
 a day. 
 
 END OF VOL. 1. 
 
 London : Printed by G. Ui.acLii,Y, Castle St. Leicester Sq.