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Las diagrammas suivants illustrant la mithoda. errata to I palure. on A n 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 6 6 --^ » l l»lf 1 11 II >« '■il- ■*> ;";? .;< -^ ',:1; hi I : ■ /: /.'f THBOVGHnUB ' v ,-,? ■ , AKD NADi, ■■■■/v-^ ,<«'>^- H, P. Cape Cav. ■■-■.''^.- •'^':- ^'^ ■■•::':., ..',/•'•■•: -:',.■ /: ■ . . ': ** %'t^'i^6imho related wtttit I^ has liii9iwelf i»e& wiU be read wtthJli^teroMi," ^ IJK. JoHKgON. •« ffhef ielwy^ of a people |» beat given bjriiKBIdt^ of daily Ufo." H0CHELA(?A. i^^JJMfci.r: ;0|tQf8 tBIliAbB) SAMHBESMttk ; .cj ^ap|UK^ UJ^^AXJ*^ AK]> CO., STA11#1^' HAli; CatJi^T. V'.* . t w l y ii mmmmi^tlmtm >»»^*M»>».*T* ' 'liil' "»'H'l l«|li«ii ' II i .V l.<. |» » .Ll l > 'l^ ii^i i l rt ^i i ima ^wMiiiii* •VJ' . -'■/ ■M t? s^a t;uii **• • ««i. .*"=!/. I \ w.. NO '^f: SIM El'i.>'f'. ,\'i'J DIARY OP A f;7. 3 TOUR THKOUOH THE NORTHERN STATES OF THE UNION, AND CANADA, BY MAJOR JOHN THORNTON, H. P. Cape Cavy. •• A Traveller Who relates what tt has himself seen will be i-ead^^ith ir ^rerest." '** The picture of a 'people ib 'bbst'giVeh' • ' • picture of a 'people ib'bbst'gi' , l»y sketches of daj^y life.*,\ V, ' • \ » f^* » 'i ■• »* • .* * JibfcXBLAaA. LONDON: p. BABKER, DOBCAS TERBACE, HAMMERSMITH. SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS HALL COURT. 1850. 4 f . BARKEE, PBINTEB, OOBCAS TEBBACE, HAMMEBSMITH • * .4 * » • • '• • * • • • « * • • • • • * . • • • • • • * « • •■ « " « » <« « • « • • . • « » • • • • 4 ^1 « • • • • • • • • « • • • • • • • » ^ * j^ PREFACE. ♦ Though works on America abound, yet as the minds and opinions of writers are as diverse as their features, and their opportunities of observation diverse also ; every one will have his own story to tell. The aspect of Society too is ever on the shift ; whether it be by the innumerable torrent of Emigration, or by the passage of time, or by the ordinary increase of population. All these items furnish materials to the writer for his subject. To make the experience of a man generally useful, he should possess the mental characteristics of sincerity, correctness, and accuracy in his observation of men and things^orrectness in his mental impressions of nature, and mankind— accuracy in describing them, and sincerity in relating neither more nor less than the truth and fact ; — these the writer conceives are some of the pre-requisites to ensure a faithful narrative. The following Diary of a brief visit to America is published to gratify the desire of friends to peruse it, and not to cater to what Scott sarcastically calls the *' non est tanti feelings, or no feelings of fashionable folks.' ' To the pure and imsophis- ticated mind, the writer trusts there is nothing to offend or 61936 E' I mV'\ PREFACE. contaminate, but something to amuse and instruct, and as a lover of the rising generation, whom he would above all things endeavour to lead to the Christian Standard, for the formation of their minds and manners, he will add nothing more than thus express his sentiments, and leave the following pages to say how far he has carried out in practice this avowal. A Diary or Journal was originally adopted as best admitting of desultory remarks and casual observations. With these few observations, the writer retires with an Adieu to the Reader. -^A ^^ > e f as all :he ing ing ral. ing k an DIAKY. i /- EUviNa decided to undertake a voyage to America, to visit some relations long settled there, and to see nature in her grandest garb, particularly the far-famed Falls, I took my passage for New York, in the good ship Monte- zuma, Oapt. Lowber, and embarked 11th June, 1849, at Liverpool. We sailed immediately — ^towed out of the Mersey by a steam-tug some forty miles into the Irish Channel — one's feelings and reflections on departing from England indescribable — ^trifling present to a poor emi- grant family from Dumfrieshire called forth delight and gratitude. Well hath Dr. Johnson remarked, " the spon- taneous kindness of a fellow mortal is valuable" — in* voluntary tears — ^how inexplicable and mysterious our mental nature and emotions I How responsible is man that his intercourse, his influence, and power over others should be for good and not for evil. 6 WARY OP A TOUR 12th June. — ^Rounded Holyhead — ^This evening the whole Welsh Coast well defined, the clouds clearing ofif, and showing Snowdon and adjacent ridges in perfection ; Plinlimmon also clear and conspicuous ; beautiful sun- set, surmounted with a sky of fretted gold. " These are thy glorious works — these thy universal voice — Parent of good." 13th June. — ^Roimded Tuscar Rocks — Steering a course to carry us far into the wide Atlantic and give us plenty of Sea-room. June 14th. — Passed Cape Clear this evening. 16th June. — All sails full, running ten knots in the wide Atlantic — ^wind lulled in the evening, with a long heavy westerly swell. 17th Jime— The Sabbath.— The Rev. 0. French preached from 3 John, iii. 5. An excellent discourse, well supported with scriptural references ; " Man cannot change himself, but must be changed by divine power, St. John sets forth the divinity of Christ decisively. 18th June. — ^To-day being the anniversary of Waterloo, brings with it reminiscences of Flanders, Ostend, and the stirring events of that period. On Monday, the day after- the battle, Col. Murray arrived at Ostend, with the captured standards, and dispatches for England. A Yorkshire horse-dealer, who left the field while the battle was raging, said to me, " Sir, they are not fighting, but slaughtering each other." ^ f ••» DIARY OP A TOUR f* ;♦ s i June 19th to 30th. — Foggy weather, and the glass varymg from 60deg. down to 34deg.,indicated the vicinity of icebergs and the banks of Newfoundland. On the night of the 30th, the ship laji^-to in a thick fog, with a strong favourable gale, the Captain not daring to run, and the ship rolling heavy all night. We lost a fine run by the fog. July 1st.— To-day the latitude and longitude places us on the edge of " The Banks." In the afternoon the weather cleared, and we fell in with an iceberg, distant about a league, floating in solitary grandeur in mid-ocean: it was estimated at a quarter of a mile in circuit and 100 feet high. Looking at it attentively through a telescope, it appeared now and then to cleave asunder, and melt into the ocean, but instantly re-appcared: it was the sea overwhelming it at intervals, and rushing over it with all the force of the Atlantic swell. Icebergs being sunk into the ocean several times their height out of it, they present an abrupt and large opposing surface to the impetuous billows ; and it was so in the present instance. On nearing the icy mountain, v/e could see the mighty waves dash up and over it in one clear sheet, with tremendous power, with the whole weight of the ocean swell. The sea rolled on with a power which nothing could resist ; and, v/ithout breaking, ran over the iceberg, completely veiling it from view ; and, in the grandest style imaginable, flying up in one vast body into i 8 DIARY OP A TOUR the air, apparently invading the sky— where for a moment it seemed as if suspended ; till, by the power of gravitation, it was drawn back to blend again with its parent ocean. Such are the sublime scenes which occasionally reward the adventurous traveller and hardy tar while embarked on the unstable ocean, leading the contemplative mind from God's works to their divine author, and imper- ceptibly begetting in it admiration, love, and devotion to the onmipotent Creator. July 2nd. — ^As usual, the Rev. Missionary read, expounded, and prayed. Among the petitions, I was struck with the following :— ** May we have no plans but such as we can bring before the mercy seat of our Grod and Saviour.'* July 3rd to the 13th. — ^T^ariable weather, the glass varying from 34deg. to 70deg. July 14:th. — ^Wind fair, and yards square, effected a metamorphosis in all on board. July 15th — ^The Sabbath. — ^The Reverend Missionary preached an excellent sermon from " The Lord reigns, let the earth rejoice." Wind still favourable and running down the remainder of our distance rapidly. July 16th.— Fair wind and fine weather, the cap- tain singing gaily and in high spirits. He could not previously subscribe to the Rev. 0. French's doctrine that " all's for the best." Surely it is so with us, who have escaped icebergs and other dangers ; and though ^ I a ^ DURY OP A TOUR d delayed by fogs, have nearly reached our destined haven. The captain told me he was once foul of an iceberg seven or eight days, and nearly lost, but at length got clear. July 17th. — ^A steam-tug came alongside this evening, and towed us into the Hudson, past Sandy Hook, and the Narrows. The banks of the river are studded with villas and edifices of all descriptions : a most beautiful and varied picture of active life and prosperity. The government are now laying the foundation (on a solid rock, level with the water,) of an extensive and strong fortress at a narrow part of ihe river, and opposite to a circular fort already built. About eight p.m. we anchored at the quarantine ground, within sight of the shipping at New York. July 18th. — The Rev. 0. French, wife, and children, Mr. Phillips, and myself landed, at some risk, in a leaky boat, at the quarantine station, and there we took the steamer for New York ; and landing, in the midst of dust, heat, und confusion, were soon separated. I took up my quarters at No. 1, Waverly Place, Broadway. At dinner and tea the conversation general, and unreserved ; Mrs. TroUope's strictures acknowleged to have done good ; if any one at a public place of assembly behaves unman- nerly, immediately a cry is heard: "TroUope I TroUope!" I was told no smoking is allowed in the streets of Boston, and hardly at New York. A lady complained to me it was " a New York nuisance." 10 DIARY OP A TOUR Having letters of introduction to Principal McV. and Dr. M. of Columbia College, the latter went with me about the city, and to the Astor House and other places . but I was too much weakened by the voyage to be able to talce all the advantage I wished of his kindness. The doctor engaged me to dinner to-morrow, at five p.m. July 19th. — Cousin William drove me out to the Blind Asylum, and through the patrician parts of the city ; which, as it extends northwards, is divided into wide avenues, numing nearly parallel with the Hudson, which are again intersected at right angles by streets numbered from No. 1 upwards ; and as the city is expected in process of time to cover the whole of Manhatten Island (13 miles long,) distinguishing parallel streets by numbers is a good plan, as the number will always indicate the whereabouts of a street, or how far north it lays; the avenues run east and west, the streets north and south ; and both respectively parallel to each other ; already the street numbers are above 30. Met at dinner at Dr. M's., his son and daughter, Mrs. H. and Dr. H., and Professor R — , a pleasant party — ^the host convivial — and gave champagne and excellent Madeira. ^ - July 20. — ^Embarked with cousin William in one of the splendid Hudson River steam-boats, and sailed up to Sing Sing, near to which his father resides ; at last we met, after the lapse of 64 years since we were play-fellows inYorkshire : '* Some natural tears he shed, but wiped them soon.*' '• DIARY or A TOUR 11 We clasped each others hands. He very much resembles our grandfather — ^his habitation and sur- rounding property (purchased by his father in 1797) beautiful — his house in the villa style, with large virandah looking on the water — stands on a steep verdant bank of the Hudson, embosomed in trees, where the river forms a secluded cove, with woody banks to the water's edge. The Hudson presents a fine broad sheet of water, land-locked and bounded by bold banks on every side, and more like a lake than a river. Immediately opposite is Rockland village and lake, famous for pure ice. July 22nd — the Sabbath. — ^Was driven to church (Presbyterian) by cousin Edward, about one mile and a half. The preacher was from New York, and gave us a kind of declamatory discourse or moral oration on the beneficence of God, from a text in Ecclesiastes. I was doubtfiil for some time to which religious sect he belonged, as he said " look at Washington," " look at Wellington," but omitted to say " look unto Jesus," till in the con- cluding section of his sermon he alluded to the Saviour, and his creed may be orthodox. Man's natural state as a sinner and the remedy Christ, should, to my mind, be the sum and substance of all sermons. In the evening drove to the Episcopal Church, which is a handsome edifice, and heard an excellent sermon by the Eev. Mr. Halsey, on Christ's words to Nicodemus— ** Except a man be born again, (&c." The preacher 12 DIARY OP A TOUR alluded to Nicodemus as an earnest and sincere enquirer of the truth, especially " The truth as it is in Jesus," and divided his discourse into — 1st. Man's state by nature. 2nd. The meaning of the term Regeneration. 3rd. The Evidences of it. In his introductory remarks, he alluded to the various opinions of mankind about the mind or soul of man- that it had been compared to a sheet of white paper, upon which anything might be traced or inscribed; but that reason, history, and revelation, all agree in giving a very different account of it. 2nd. To be regenerated, is to be renewed or changed from a death unto sin to a life of righteousness; and this can only be effected by divine power and the Spirit of God. 3rd. The Evidences of it are a holy life and conversa- tion ; for when the tree is good (the Heart regenerated) the fruit will be good — ^when the fountain is cleansed and purified, the stream* will.be pure, and the conduct good and virtuous. July 23rd. — Oousin Edward drove his son and self to Tarrytown, to intercept the steamer to New York. Our off-horse broke down into a hole, going over a bridge out of repair, and was overthrown, and for some seconds on his side, the other horse standing like a lamb; soon the horse recovered his footing, and appeared unhurt ; and we drove through to Tarrytown, and several miles after- DURY OF A TOUR 13 ^ ' ' wards. On our return, I waa shown the spot where Andr^ was captured after his interview with Arnold at West Point July 25th. — Cousin Edward took me a drive to-day through "Sleepy Hollow," celebrated by Washington Irving, in one of his works. He resides near it, and is represented to be a very merry sort of man. The drive was hilly, and very secluded and interesting. July 26th. — ^The weather very sultry — cousin pro- posed to show me the State Prison at Sing Sing, which is a large solid edifice, for both sexes, in two distinct buildings. I have an aversion to looking over prisons, and declined. This evening we had rain, with lightning and thunder. July 27th. — ^Drove to Tarrytown this morning, and had some conversation with Mr. Gardner, a young engi- neer, at present employed on the New York and Albany Railway, which is soon expected to have forty miles ready for traffic. July 28th. — ^Rececived a rouleau of Golden Eagles for our journey by the hands of Edward, Jun., who escorted Miss B , a very agreeable young lady, to cousin's placj. July 29tK. — In our way to church, saw school-boys in uniform (blue shell jacket and white trousers) marching regularly in file to church — excellent practice as teaching order and regularity — ^if general throughout the United 14: DIARY OF A TOUR States, excellent as preparatory training for the Militia. Battalions are soon formed and drilled when men can march and are accustomed to move in ranks. Text, John iii. 3, " Except a man be born again, &c." The preacher first alluded to the sincerity, earnestness, and rank of Nicodemus — his frank avowal of the Divine Mission of Christ, and his desire for farther instruction and teachiTig. He (the preacher) would first show what Kegeneration was not — and then what it was. It was not any mere outward change, but a real one of the heart, and disposition, the will and affections of the inner man ; as well might you address a corpse as expect spiritual life in the natural man. Kegeneration is that thorough cleansing of the fountain, the intellect and heart of man, which will make the streams of thought and of action to be good and consistent with virtue. In the afternoon, attended, with cousin Mary and Miss B , the Rev. Mr. Halsey's Episcopal Church. He preached a good sermon from "If the Lord make you free ye shall be free indeed." The church intolerably hot ; and to make bad worse, the seats and cushions covered with moreen. f July 30th. — Cousin Edward drove to Tarrytown, passing Captain and Commodore Perry's place, and Mr. Phelps's; it is a beautiful drive, over a good' road of hill and dale, with sufficient clearing and cultivation to con- vey the idea of a long settled country. . ^ - • .. July 31st. — Drove to Sing Sing, and embarked with DIARY OF A TOUR 15 If cousin Edward in one of the spacious and splendid steamers which navigate the Hudson, and sailed up through the Highlands in the midst of a dark thunder- storm, to West Point, which giving only glimpses of the scenery, enhanced its wildness. We landed at West Point, and were conveyed in an omnihus by a zig-zag road up the woody cliff to Cozens's Hotel, a spacious and delightful residence, commanding views (over the foliage of the forest) of both banks of the river. The hotel itself is a parallelogram of consider- able dimensions, and is belted on the east and south sides by flower-garden beds and parterres on ground reclaimed from the forest. A delightful virandah extends round three sides of the building, and affords a pleasant and salubrious promenade for those who prefer the precincts of the house to more wild and extended excursions ; and here each may consult his taste to perfection. Being provided with a card of introduction to Captain Brureton, the Oonmiandant of the United States Military Academy, we visited it — distant about a mile and a half from the hotel. Capt. B. showed us the Church — an elegant and commodious building; the Library, with some Mexican banners displayed, and well supplied with books ; the Museum, not yet completely Arranged, and the new barracks for Cadets, now in course of erection ; and the parade-ground. The Cadets were at drill in several squads, and appeared fine active young fellows 16 DURY OF A TOUR ^vell set up, and having much the aspect and bearing of our own youth, and were clothed in a neat uniform. When the new barracks are ready for occupation, the old ones are to be pulled down, which will give more space to the parade and drill-ground. This locality for the purposes of a military academy and parade, appears to me a very good one, combining as it does fine scenery, health, and, by its seclusion, freedom from city disssipa- tions. This establishment comprehends the whole or the only one in the U. S. for military education, and is sufficient for the present wants of the Bepublic, which does not require such distinct establishments as our own at Woolwich, exclusively for the Engineers and Artillery ; at Sandhurst, for the Infantry and Cavalry of the regular army ; at Addiscomb, for the Cadets of the Sepoy army of Hon. E. I. Company. We returned to Cozens's hotel, which is excellent for its accommodations and good fare, and for its society : it is of recent erection; and with its appendages must be an outlay approaching 100,000 dollars, — ^the meal hours are, breakfast eight, dinner three, tea seven. The waiters are drilled, and place and remove dishes by signal, march- ing in and out in file. The evening closed with music and dancing in the Salle, while in the spacious and elegant drawing-room there was the piano, chess, &c. Met here General Scott, and General Garland, the DIARY OF A TOUR 17 Mexican Heroes, Monsieur et Madame Poussin, and their daughter Faimable et douce Melanie, Mrs. and Miss Kelly of New York, and Mr. and Mrs. Chandler from Mobile. I was introduced to General Garland, and con- versed with him on the Mexican war. He knew Cap- tain Thornton of the United States Cavalry, who was slain by a cannon shot in a reconnoissance near Mexico, Altogether there was a very pleasant and social party at this hotel; cousin Edward conversed some time with General Scott, who had his family with him. I admired the hotel drawing-room, and its beautiful mirrors, sofas, lounging-chairs, piano, and an elegant cir- cular centre-table, very convenient for a tete-a-tete which I had the good fortune to enjoy for too brief a period, with one of those charming beings who appear to be sent into the world as an earnest of good to come, and who had charmed me in the morning with her taste and skill in music. August 1st. — Left Mr. Cozens's charming hotel with regret, and embarked in a fine steamer for Albany ; and after sailing through a great variety of romantic and beautiful scenery, on as fine a day as one could choose, arrived at Albanyabout 4 p.m. The views on the Hudson are superb and varied; after clearing the highlands the river expands, and you get a distant view of the Catskill Mountains, which may be about four thousand feet high, and ten or twelve miles from the river. There B IS DIARY OP A TOUR is an hotel on the summit for those fond of rusticating amidst forest scenery in seclusion and solitude. August 2nd. — Left Albany early this morning by the railway-cars for Cayuga Bridge, passing through a fine tract of country, in many places with strong traces of having been recently reclaimed from a state of nature, the ground being covered with the stumps of felled forest trees standing a foot or so above the ground. The stations on this railway are, at many places, the commencement of cities, especially at Syracuse, and other large towns on this route. Reached Cayuga Bridge about 3 p.m. and the steamer being ready immediately embarked on Lake Cayuga — and in weather beautiful, though sultry, sailed up it to the forest city, where we arrived about 6 p.m. after witnessing a great variety of beautiful land- scapes on the shores of the Lake. The approach to Ithaca is quite oriental in scenery and verdure, the Lake narrowing to a river, and the ridges on each side of the lake terminating in a natural amphi- theatre of woody hills, in the centre of which the city stands embosomed in foliage. On our left, as the Lake narrows, you have a full view of the Water-Fall, eighty feet perpendicular ; which, with the surrounding scenery, is splendid, when the torrent down the glen is large ; but at present it is a mere rill which descends over the pre- cipice, and is soon dissipated into foam and mist. We were met at Ithaca by the Rev. Mr. H., son-in-law to DIARY OF A TOUR 19 cousin Edward, and received a most hearty welcome from him and his wife cousin Gertrude, who proved to be a UxOst amiable and commanding personage — tall and portly in her carriage and demeanour. The expenses at the principal hotels are pretty much the same throughout the States, about half a dollar a meal,, or 2 dollars a-day for three meals and your bed, which covers all expenses of servants, and generally of the car- riage to and from the railway station^ — each hotel having its own omnibus or other conveyance in waiting at the stations. Excellent order is observed in the railway cars, and the travellers (apparently of respectable character,) about an equal number of both sexes. Only one class of tickets are issued (except for the emigrant trains,) and the railway cars for comfort and easy motion superior to our own (at least in those I travelled.) Our engineers and railway directors should take a lesson from the American system, worthy of their attention and adoption. August 3rd. — The national fast and prayer to avert cholera, as recommended by presidential authority, was observed to-day throughout the United States, and at Ithaca by the various congregations. The inhabitants closed their stores, and public worship was generally attended as on a Sabbath. At the presbyterian church (a large one and well filled) the service was conducted by the Bishop of the Wesleyans, assisted by the Rev. Mr. Henry. The Bishop preached an excellent sermon 20 DIARY OF A TOUR from Jonah iii. 9. He exhorted his hearers to holiness of life and conversation, to propitiate the divine favour and be saved from the prevailing malady, which is go- verned by no fixed laws, but goes forth, like the destroying angel, to do its work of destruction on young and old and reprove the nation. The preacher represented the President as following the steps of the penitent king of Nineveh in the work of national humiliation, penitence, and prayer. " Who can tell if God will turn and repent, and turn away from his fierce anger that we perish not." This place of w^orship had a choir of singers, while the congregation generally were mute : the only presbyterian church I ever knew to follow such an indevctional prac- tice. August 4th. — This morning Mr. H. drove us to see the Water Fall, and the surrounding glen scenery, which, with a view of the adjacent lake, is varied, extensive and beautiful ; but the Fall, for want of water, was not seen to advantage : it is about eighty feet perpendicular, and is surmounted by a succession of minor Falls, at intervals, as the country rises behind the main Cascade : when plen- tifully supplied with water during the rains, they present fine landscapes, and are so near the city as to be within an easy walk. After viewing the principal Fall, we re- turned to the carriage, and drove to the Cemetery, which stands in a very secluded spot, combining hill, wood, and lake scenery, and parts of the Sylvan city. Our excursion DIARY OP A TOUR 2t 8 r f party this morning consisted of cousin Gertrude, her children, and the two Miss H 's, Mr. H. and myself. Little Charlotte was my companion at the Falls, and a delightful one. August 5th — The Sabbath. — Attended divine service at the Rev. Mr. Henry's Church (Dutch Reformed ;) his text Acts X. 47, from which he set forth the necessity of penitence and faith, and the spiritual baptism of the Holy Ghost. Mr. Henry's congregation joined in the singing. In the evening, the Bishop of the Methodists preached in Mr. Henry's pulpit, a plain but somewhat singular sermon ; drawing a parallel between angels and men in reference to the Saviour and each other, as to the bliss of the heavenly life, &c. &c. A glorified man will doubtless bo superior to angels in many respects : as for instance — in his peculiar capacity for holiness and happiness as a Christian, especially in his alliance and resemblance to Christ as his Saviour, Redeemer, Brother, Friend — and in the variety and happiness of his mental associations, as well as in the unspeakable and intense gratitude, reverence, and attachment for the Lord, his Saviour and Redeemer — and that " Lamb of God," which atoned for the sins of the whole world. August Gth. — Mr. H. drove us out to see the Upper Falls, and the river scenery, and paper mills. On some of the cleared estates north-east of the city, wo saw striking vestiges of the primaeval forest and vegetable DIARY OP A TOUR ruins, in the shape of enormous roots and stumps, which had been torn out of the ground by machinery, and then placed edgeways, so as by interlacing the roots they made an impervious and durable fence. The country around Ithaca is hilly, and is crossed by steep roads ; but the scenery, for beauty and variety, cannot be excelled. Land in and near the city may be bought from thirty to sixty dollars an acre, according as it is situated, is more or less cleared, and with or without house, bams, &c. There is a considerable clashing of ideas (English and American) in the meaning of the same word : — thus at dinner yesterday (the Sabbath) I happened, on Mrs. H. saying there was no after-course, to reply, we had at home only one joint on the Sabbath ; it was immediately remarked by cousin Gertrude (to her papa, the Judge) that she could not understand what was meant bv " one joint," upon which I had to explain it meant one dish, as a leg of mutton, sir-loin of beef, &c. The Judge said, if the knuckle were cut off there would be " no joint," which set us all laughing ; so it was necessary for me to explain my meaning, which was the common one in England with the butchers, who enquire " ^Tiat joint will you have ? " The Judge said, suppose you want steaks, then there is no joint, which plainly showed he meant by joint, the junction of two bones and nothing more — and was blind to my meaning, the usual English one, " A joint of meat," while Gertrude understood it as 1 ii i i' DIARY OP A TOUR 23 one joint and not two ! Such is the confusion of ideas when the same word is conventional of two meanings in different countries, as in the present instance. It occa- sioned a good deal of laughter and merriment among us. The Yankee idioms are singular, and generally expressive; also a disjointing of a word sometimes occurs, as " can not," for cannot, which when one meets with in reading is like an obstacle to a fox-hunter at full gallop ; and when a thing fails, or is abortive, it " falls through," cer- tainly very expressive. When I first heard the latter idiom, it seemed to me as if the ceiling was coming down. August 7th. — Left Ithaca and our kind friends there, and drove through a great many fine farms and splendid scenery to Gough's landing-place, on Lake Seneca ; and after half-an-hour*s halt there, embarked in a steam-boat for Geneva. After a pleasant sail up the Lake, took the railway-cars for Canandaigna and Rochester, through a fine productive country, very much cleared and highly cultivated. The farms and scenery between Canandaigna and Rochester are particularly worth notice — as indeed the whole tract from Geneva to Rochester — on this route you see here and there the wild wreck of the ancient forest, with trees prostate and decayed to powder, and the trunks laying loosened in bends, according to the inequalities of the ground by reason of rottenness. Land, I learnt, might be bought here for 24 DIARY OF A TOUR h% about sixty to seventy dollars an acre, with a good house, barns, and other buildings. A solicitor, of Geneva, told me he had a very fine estate of two hundred acres to sell at about thirty dollars an acre, on which is much wood and a beautiful glen within view of Lake Seneca, and edging down to it amidst surpassing scenery, which I had noticed in our way down to Gough*s Ferry. Gough is an old settler of fifty or sixty years back, and is still living in his original log hut Mr. H met here his brother-in-law, the Rev. Mr. C , Episcopal Minister at Rochester, and introduced the Judge and myself. We went to look at the Falls of the Genessie River, but found the whole body of water diverted into the mill races, and only the precipice which forms the cascade, to be seen. The river, by the present drought, is exceedingly low ; the flour and other mills are numerous, and require all the water privileges to keep them going in a dry season. We walked through the principal streets of Rochester, and I Wiks astonished at the apparent prosperity and commerce of a parvenue city. There are " first-rate " shops and spncious streets, and all the iK)pulation bustle and activity, which indicate trade and the circulation of cash and property by sale or barter. Rochester contains immense mills for various purposes, the machinery of which is set in motion by the waters of the Geueaaie ; and as the line of railway from Buffalo to 1 DURY OP A TOUE 25 I f Albany (soon to be completed on to New York) passes through Rochester, as also the traffic by steam-boats from Oswego (at the mouth of the Genessie) and from Canada, generally, the commerce of the place is immense and increasing. Some few Indians are to be seen occasionally at the stations here and there, offering trifles for sale ; they are good-looking and muscular, and of a deep brown or olive colour — ^grave, yet cheerful. The Rev. Mr. Cooper took us to see his new church —contrived to seat about six hundred, without galleries » it is pewed uniformly, in a neat and simple style. There is no lack of churches in the numerous rising towns in the Northern States, and they are pretty much on the same plan for all sects, viz., a portico, surmounted with a dome cr cupola, under which are the entrances in front of the main body of the building. Augast 8th. — Came on to Buffalo by train, passing througl a country of the same character as yesterday — rising :owns — reclaimed land — decaying forest wreck, and stirnps in the midst of corn-fields and the primeval forest. Bufflio, which thirty years back hardly existed, is now a large Rity of about fifty thousand souls, surrounded by forests f,nd the remains of forests in every direction, except dfi the margin of Lake Erie, and is a place of great trade, ai^i the focus of the commerce and intercourse of I i 26 DIARY OP A TOUR the Great Lakes of North America; and the cities on the line of railway to Albany, and by the Hudson for New York. The principal streets of Buffalo are very spacious, and at one point radiate towards the lake and port as from the centre of a circle. The houses are large and solid, and the well-stocked stores indicate a prosperous and increasing trade ; if the city increases as anticipated, some of the streets will be a league in length : and the same may be observed also of the cities of Rochester and Syracuse. On re-calling the scenery of the past few days, the ' forests in many parts of our route contain stu- pendous trees and the wrecks of trees, some twisted off and round their trunks by the whirlwind, and some which have fallen from age and lie embedded in the earth and sod, in every stage of decay and decomposition. In the afternoon we embarked in the steamei which sails down the River Niagara to Cheppewa. Bafalo has a most imposing appearance as viewed from tie Lake (Erie ;) the practice of roofing the cupolas, domej, roofs, (fee. with bright tin, has a most dazzling effect wien tho sun's rays are reflected from them. We soon entered the River Niagara, passing Grand Island, aboit eight miles long and seven wide, almost covered witi wood, containing wild animals and game. On this sland it was lately proposed to collect the remnant of the Twelve Tribes, and there locate them as a step to their re-union as a nation and conversion to Christianity, tnd final I DIARY C? A TOUR 27 ' restoration to the Holy jand; but the attempt failed^ Passed also Navy Islanr" ♦He rendezvous of the " Sym- pathizers." We were uow rapidly approaching the River Chippewa, and could distinguish the crest of the Great Fall, about a mile before us, and the cloud of haze and mist rising therefrom like a white column in the air. The current of the river had now become swifter, and of course suggested the possibility of disaster ; on enquiry of the Skipper in case of accidents what he would do? ''Cast anchor, sir," and " suppose the anchor gave way ? " " Why then, sir, there's nothing for it but going over the Falls." We were now closely hug- ging the Canada Shore, with the mouth of tlie small river Chippewa just showing itself, the current running smoothly but with the swiftness of an arrow, whilst the rushing rapids were foaming over every obstacle in the main channel of the river. The vessel beau- tifully obeyed her helm, and we glided safely into the mouth of the Cheppewa, leaving our dangers and fears behind us. At the bridge over the Cheppewa we quitted the steamer, and were conveyed in a carriage tc the Clifton Hotel, on the British shore, immediately in front of the Grand Fall, and in full view of both cataracts : but it was now getting dark, and we could only see glimpses of white crested foam, and hear the noise of the falling waters. My bed-room being directly opposite the Great Horse Shoe, I was soon lulled to rest by the 28 DIARY OF A TOUR roaring of the Falls, and there is evidently a gentle tremor of the earth felt every few seconds as you lie reposing. The hotel is about half a mile in an air-line from the British Fall, and about six hundred yards from the American Fall, both being in sight from the " Clifton." The tremor comes and goes, and the cataract evidently shakes the earth all around for probably a circuit of a mile radius, more or less, as the body of descending water is greater or smaller. August 9th. — ^Anon at glimmer of day, I was on the alert, and went solus to Table-Rock, to enjoy in welcome solitude the first impression of this mighty wonder of the great Creator's handy work. I was soon awe-struck and transfixed on Table-Rock, and had the overwhelming stunning scene all to myself for an hour, enjoying the sublime spectacle of commingled elements and the im- mense cascade of pure emerald green which rolls and rushes over the centre of the Horse Shoe, and is estimated to be from twenty to thirty feet deep, according as the river is full or short of water; this summer it was exceedingly low ; when swollen by high westerly winds sending the waters of the upper lakes in a large body down the river, it rises many feet above its present level ; which is evident by the position of the debris on the banks immediately below Table-Rock, where the trunks of immense trees are strewed about at least twenty feet above the present level of the river. To see the cata- l DIARY OP A TOUR 29 racts to perfection, they should be visited in the spring, in April or May, or in "the Fall," in October or Novem- ber, and then the mass of waters shooting over the precipice is tremendous, and on a sunny day occasions all those beautiful prismatic changes and other sublime phenomena of nature's chaotic works, which at Niagara delight and astonish the beholder. One's impressions before this mighty object, which reality alone can give a true conception of, cannot be defined ; but it seems to rivet one to the spot, and you feel as though you could gaze for ever and worship for ever. About a hundred yards up the bank, above Table-Rock, the centre of the Horse Shoe Fall has the appearance of a vast vortex, and gives the beholder a graphic idea of a whirlpool. Less than a mile below the falls, the river becomes smooth and placid, and of a deep emerald green, and the chaos of the cataracts is here unfelt. After breakfast, walked down on the Canada side of the river to see the Chain Bridge recently erected about two miles below the Falls. Both banks are precipices one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high, wooded at the summits and in the clefts, and they hem the river into comparatively a narrow channel of thirty to thirty -five fathoms deep. The Chain Bridge appears to be well constructed — has a light airy appearance, and is calculated for carriages and foot-passengers, all of which pay toll. The structure rests on wooden towers, about fifty feet high, over which 30 DIARY OF A TOUR ii i pass iron ropes of various strength, to which the bridge is suspended, equal to bear the carriage of some hundred tons. Immediately below this Bridge, the river for the next two or three miles has a considerable fall, which occasions a succession of violent rapids, terminating about two miles down in a sort of whirling agitation of the water, which is magnified into a whirlpool ; but in reality the river here at first attempts to escape by a direct course between the high cliffs, which hem it in on either hand ; and failing to effect this, it is driven back as out of a cul de sac, and escapes by a lateral passage through the pre- cipice, with a violent agitation and whirling of the waters ; but no vortex or suction. The river turns at a right angle, forming what they call "The Devil's Hole," and forces a channel for itself in the direction of Lake Ontario, i.fter viewing the whirlpool, returned by the precipi- tous bank of the river to the Clifton Hotel — the road affording every now and then fine glimpses of the River and the Falls. In the evening went upon the Heights, immediately opposite the American Falls, and flanking the British Fall, where the spectator's view of both is surpassingly fine, from a lofty wooden observatory, just above the Horse Shoe. It must be indescribably grand when the volume of the Biver is at its highest ; then, with the sun in splendour, the prismatic colours of the rainbow will come out, and shew all those beautiful and varied hues which enchant and delight the admiring gazer. DIARY OF A TOUR m The ground hereabouts affords several beautiful build- ing sites, which command front and flank views of the Falls and surrounding romantic scenery, and must soon become very valuable. But like all earthly things, even Niagara loses by familiarity ; the eye is soon satisfied and insatiable of novelty , it seems more than ought else to speak the divinity within us : nothing can fully satisfy the mind of man but love, which indeed is God himself* as the converse axiom proves " God is Love ;" and there- fore, when love is in the heart of man, God is there also ; or the " Royal Law," which is the ruling principle in the rectified mind. Aug. 10th. — This morning crossed by the ferry-boat to the American side. On landing, the passengers are conducted to the foot of a very steep inclined plane, and are seated in a chair and hauled up the precipice at some risk, by a windlass ; should the machinery or rope give way, death would be inevitable. Went immediately to the Cataract H otel, and visited the gallery, which looks upon the Rapids and Goat Island. Nothing of the Falls can be seen from this gallery, but the spray and mist rising from the American Fall, which is about three hundred yards lower down the River than the hotel. I then sallied forth and crossed over to Goat Island by a strong wooden bridge, over the foaming cur- rent ; and on paying toll, was directed to keep the right- hand path; which I followed accordingly ; it conducted m DIARY OP A TOUR me along the rapids to the American Falls, which, owing to the low state of the River, are now seen to disad- vantage, for after rushing over the precipice, they descend in wreaths of froth and foam, their only supply of water being from the minor branch of the Niagara, which runs on the north side of Goat Island. The spectator s posi- tion here is so completely a prolongation of the crest-line of the Fall, that it is impossible for him to obtain any- thing like so advantageous a view as is obtained on the British side of the Horse Shoe Fall. The American Fall is about 300 yards wide, in a direct line, and the scene altogether dis-similar to the view of the British Falls, but both must be superlatively grand when the River Niagara is at its highest volume : for then the wreaths of froth and foam would be changed to the grand Cascade of emerald green — ^now only to be seen at the Horse Shoe. A good deal of misapprehension seems to be entertained generally, by those who have not visited the Falls of Niagara, as to their exact position, and they are as generally considered to be one general Fall, with only a few slight interruptions : but the reality is that Goat Island is about a quarter of a mile broad, and presents to the spectator for that distance, a complete precipice of rock, some 200 feet high, at right angles to the Course of the River above the Falls, which completely separates the Cataracts, and forms them into two distinct Falls, almost at right angles to each other, and completely i ■i DIARY OF A TOUR 33 separated by the quarter of a mile of clifP, which Goat Island presents to the observer's view : this island is a very picturesque object, being richly clothed with the native forest trees of 100 to 120 feet high. Continuing one's course along the precipitous bank of Goat Island, you approach the Horse-Shoe Fall ; and can view it from the summit of the tower built among the rapids, so as to look into its very centre, where the largest body of water shoots over, and which is evidently wearing away the rock, and continually changing the aspect and outline of the Fall. The dimensions of the " Horse-Shoe," taking the irregular crest of the Fall, may be about 600 yards, and the chord of the arc or direct line across, about or upwards of 300 yards in an air line from Goat Island at its nearest point to the famous Table Rock on the British shore. I would recommend tourists not to follow the usual route recommended by the toll-keeper, but rather take the left-hand path close by the water, and go round the head of the island ; after which, on turning towards the great Falls, the view of the Rapids is very fine, particularly in mid-Channel, between the British shore and Goat Island, the surges rising 20 or 30 feet high, where a rocky opposition is encountered. As you approach the great Horse -Shoe Fall, by the southern shore of Goat Island, it has again the appearance of a vortex (as before noticed,) and must be appalling to look at, when the 34 DIARY OP A TOUR i river is at its Lighest. Sometimes when the wind ia favourable for driving the waters from Lake Erie, and during the spring, when the ice ard snow begin to melt and swell the Rivers which feed the upper Lakes, the waters rush down the river Niagara, in a very large volume ; and this is the time to see the Falls in their grandeur. August 11th. — This morning rode down to the pier near the Chain Bridge, to embark on board the *' Maid of the Mist," a small steam-boat which plies three or four times a-day, with the curious to go beneath the Falls and view them immediately in front, and in close proximity. Here, on the heights above the river, you have the best general view of the Falls, about two miles below them ; and in this view, more than any other, they have the appearance of a single Fall, the spectator's position exactly flanking the rocky cliffs of Goat Island, there hardly appears any interruption or division of the cataracts. An inclined road in face of the cliffs conducts to the pier and the steam boat, on board which we embarked. The sail up the river through its precipitous and woody banks, and deep green waters, on a sunny day, such as we enjoyed, is charming. The precipices which overhang the river, cast their broad shadows on its profound and rapid, though here unruffled waters, which are of a deep green, surpassing the green hue of any DIARY OP A TOUR 35 I river I ever beheld, and the poetical couplet on the Thames is here more applicable to the Niagara: " Though deep, yet clear ; though gentle, yet not dull ; Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full." The "Maid of the Mist" conveyed ns first to the American Falls into the very midst of the foam and spray, and I confess to something of a feeling of trepida- tion at this moment, as it appeared quite possible that an eddy in the surge might send us under the Falls, or wreck us on the rocks beneath, which were dimly vi&ible through the descending spray and mist. It was neces- sary to be cloaked, or be wet through, as the spray came over us very heavy for the minute or two occupied in passing in front of the Fall: several of the passengers, though cloaked, ran under cover. After passing the American Fall, the boat was steered under Goat Island towards the Great Fall, hugging the cliffs closely ; for the Skipper said it was impossible to get so near the Horse- Shoe Fall as the other, for the moment we left the cliff, the impetus of the falling water would turn us off in- stantly ; and so it happened, for the moment we steered from under the cliffs to go beneath the Great Fall, that in- stant the boiling waters turned the boats head downwards, and we were hurried away, enabled only to catch a momentary glimpse of the watery chaos in front and around us : nor are you loth to escape from a scene which threatens every moment to engulph you. 1 DIARY OF A TOW ^^ ^ -u in front of the Falls Certainly tto view and -sit m ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ...ouldnotbe missed exh.« - ^^^^^ ^^,^,,et .eantifd and ^^^^o^Ze i. apparent danger I of the nniverBe, for thoug _^^^^.^ ^^^^^^ ^^.t believe there is none ^^'f'^. ^^.y^ny ^.vigated, the •, every way worthy, «^a. he«g ^^^^^ ^^^ ^g.„,. ^ost timid may ver.«^*«J,^^,,„,,i,Hors,andyon Uon. Macintosh cloj^a^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ ^ arc landed nnder the OWton ^^ .^ ,,,,, point of e»>'«^''-!'';^: t this point and walk do^vn Ithink,for tt«;«""^ .Xil to see the whirlpool and the American shore of the n ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ,t ed de sac. which causes the reca ^ ^^^^^ tuenissuesoutandfiudsv^^^j; ^.^^^.^ ^^^ „,,, to its previous course. ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ,pot is agitated in taking this new d. _^^.^ ^^ ^^^ ^.^,.. ealled-DeviVsHole. Thep y^^^^_^^^^^^ havinglandedmeurdr^^^O ^^^,^^.^^^^^^^^^^^ veyance. and wentonthrougn ^^^ ^ ^^, Lane) to Oueen's Town,--m o« y ^^^^^.^^^ ^^^,,, Brocks Monument, a colmnnah^ ^^^^,aing one onaprecipiceahoveQu-s^o^^^.^^^ of the finest views in Canada ^ ^^^ ,ocky bed, „ent of B. Niagara -- ^^^ ,nd its onward course about sevenmilesbelowthjnn.^ ^^^^.^_ .^ ^, ,,d junction with the -^^^ ^ ^^ ^,,t of the river distance-the woody heights on ea , Falls of the rchitect anger I le Mist" ited, the Imagina- , and you , original [t is best, alk down flpool and er, and it ight angle ^ery mucli the spot is the Mist," lired a con- iUe (Lundy Lted to visit liigh, seated manding one tie debouche- d rocky bed, nward course itario, in ^^^ z of the river I BRITISH T E MJbleEock' 'ftOfh Ifo. It.OuppefVcii^ U. S. T E R R I TERRITORY Ch^znhriff/jic ™^^ (ill de^ Sac ^SS£€*^iSStI5f O'- Jyktrlpool -^^ / MUf, m TERR ITORY iim .1 T O R Y rn/ rZe Sclc a^iSi^a^S^^^^^r^ "^ W/urlpool H^ r»« ^ Y 4 r 1 ■ 1 i * i 1 ' • DIARY OP A TOUR 87 1 and an interminable view of the British and American Territories on both sides of the river, terminating with the boundless lake itself. Brock's monument is in a shattered condition, though still standing — ^but useless as an elevated point from whence to enjoy the surrounding natural panorama ; the column was maliciously blown up or rather, injured, by some villain of an incendiary, and cannot now be ascended. Embarked at Queen's Town, on board a fine steamer, for Hamilton — the day was such an one as you would be- speak for a steam sail — ^we had the Canadian coast close on board all the way, varying in elevation, and generally fringed with wood to the water's edge. There was a lady passenger whom I took knowledge of as a Christian. Her faith appeared strong, and our conversation was like a bright spot in the world's wide wilderness, for we spake of Christ, and what He had done for man, "thought meeting thought" as out of the abundance of the heart. We reached Hamilton early in the afternoon, the approach to which, through Burlington Bay, is beautiful. Sir Allen Macnab has a fine place and park on the margin of the Bay. Hamilton is a city in embryo, and a very fine one, the natural site being admirable, and the streets very spacious, and generally at right angles ; the houses and stores, solid and spacious, and an appearance of trade and commerce encouraging. 38 DIARY OF A TOUR ■5^ m August 12th — The Sabbath. — ^Accompanied the lady I travelled with to Church, and heard a good sermon ; the Chapel Congregation and singing much the same as at home, the people being remarkably well dressed and genteel looking. Angus; 13th. — ^Hamilton is backed up about a mile in- land by a ridge of rocky Heights, in some parts, pre- cipitous and running parallel with the waters of the Lake. Walked towards these Heights, which command fine views of hill, wood, and lake scenery. The city is extensively laid out, and the main street very wide, though the two sides of it are not parallel ; the population I hear numbers over 11,000. After breakfast proceeded by Diligence to Guelph, via Dundas, Gait and Preston, passing through a great variety of country, in some parts exceedingly wild and uncleared, at others somewhat reclaimed from the native forest. About 5 p.m. reached Guelph, which is beautifully situated, and the land well cleared all round it. Not long since an estate of about 700 acres, chiefly of wood, and stocked with cattle, was sold for £1,800 to a Mr. H . I was most hospitably received by Col. and Mrs. H. who would not allow me to stay in the hotel, but provided me a room, looking upon the valley of the Speed, and a fine cleared estate opposite. -,,*»««»«*•» i # DIARY OP A TOUR 89 Aug. 14. — After breakfast Col. H. drove me on an excellent road to see his farm, about 130 acres, some 3 or 4 miles from his residence in Guelph. Here his late excellent wife (Ellen C.) lived with him several years, and here their 3 children were bom. She planted two fir trees, which the Col. pointed out near the house, and they are now flourishing, The farm and log house is at present occupied by a tenant-farmer, at a rental of £25 a year, and is prettily situated in a clamp of trees. Met at an excellent dinner, Mr. G. (the Sheriff,) his wife and daughter, Mr. F. (the Judge,) Dr. C. and the Colonel's own family — ^a very pleasant party; there being several children of the forest present, whose naive and simple manners delighted me. August 15th. — ^I was this morning introduced to Mr. Jones, the Canada Company's Commissioner, resident at Goodrich, who was returning home in a light spring waggon drawn by a pair of fine horses, going to Stratford, 45 miles, the first day, and to Goodrich the next. Took a stroll in the environs of Guelph, and in walking up an eminence on which stands the Eoman Catholic Church, I perceived the door open and numbers standing about the porch. I entered and found a Priest preaching in bad English to a large congregation (150 to 200.) He stated " the Virgin had prayed three days before her death, that all the Apostles might, by miracle, be brought from all parts of the world into her presence, to comfort her i Nil \ 40 DIARY OF A TOUR r dying hours: her prayer was granted! St. John was preaching in the pulpit at Ephesus, and was caught away from his astonished auditors ; the Apostles were glad to meet, but sorry for the occasion ; this, said the Priest, should teach Christians of every age to follow the example of the Virgin, and be surrounded at death by Christians and not sinners." We drove out in the evening to the Sheriff's, and spent a few hours with an agreeable party ; the juveniles had music and dancing. I am more and more pleased with Canadian manners, and the simple elegance of the young ladies, whose mothers I observe are elegant and accom- plished, which accounts at once for their daughters* good breeding. Aug. 16th. — Visited the Court-house where the ses- sions are held, and where the Sheriff and the Treasurer (Col. H.) have their offices. It is a solid stone building, with a district prison behind it. How do prisons pro- claim the general depravity of human nature ! go where you will, you find prisons. Walked about the town of Guelph ; the locality is diversified with hill and dale — the houses yet but scattered and intermixed with verdure and trees, and surrounded at the distance of half a mile with the wild native forest, with cultivated clearings here and there. From the eminence opposite to the Court-house, the prospect is delightftil, and Guelph truly appears " beautiful for situation." There are several mills worked by water-power for flour, sawing timber, i iJwi i w i*g DIARY OP A TOUR 51 )n their i) were and as eh like going e wild march taking e foot- fruit e wild ack to ructed Jssary, of a > Rev. The ti the Oom- rock, ords, age, ever ■Si 4^'; changing ; though truth is ever the same in every age, still the outward expression and worship of the truth may and does vary, as our present ideas and usages would not sanction many of the practices of the early Christians. The association of our ideas is doubtless of great im- portance to the purity and spirituality of our worship ; and ' reix. • seen the grep^ weight of education in the formation of the mind, to nt it for spiritual worship. The few words of the text " God is a Spirit, and they that worship Him must worship Him in spirit and in truth," are words sublimely comprehensive and simple, and should be treasured up in the memory of every Christian, and meditated on as a religious axiom. Aug. 27th, — This being my last day in this district, I walked the round of Guelph, and went to the confluence of the two streams which swell the waters of the Speed which rolls on to the Grand River, and finally into Lake Erie. Though Guelph is not yet one quarter built, the town lots have greatly increased in value since 20 years : l-8th of an acre costing now about £30 in the out- skirts of the town, and the price is far dearer in the Market-place and centre of Guelph. Aug. 28th. — Started for Hamilton at 5 a.m., and soon after passed the Sheriff's, where apparently all were enjoying " nature's soft restorer balmy sleep." x\fter passing Col. S.'s property, came to a fine opening in the woods, suitable for occupation and building. We halted ii I i I fi '■ i I' 52 DIARY OP A TOUR at the widow Knssers ta-^'^'^m and farm, who is enlarging her house. She told me a gentleman of Toronto (Mr. Dyott) owned a large extent (300 acres) of " the Bush" near her, probably the spot I had just seen and admired ; but the widow said his land had no tenant, as his terms were too hard for wild land. Passed through a great deal of the wild forest, with masses of trunks in every stage of decay, giving the idea of a wilderne ss. Passed Fisher*8 mills, with a good farm-house and bams, with the horses employed treading out the corn. Just before reaching Preston I observed some excellent land, well farmed by Dutch Settlers. After passing through Preston, the Grand River appears and presents to the traveller some fine landscapes, and wr M cultivated farms. The approach to Gait is admirable, t . also is its situation standing on both banlts of the grand Kiver, over which is a solid st^ne bridge sufficient to keep up the communication at all geasons and states of the river, which at times must rise very high. The wreck of the primaeval forest around Gait is a finished picture nature alone can do justice to. The trees riven and twisted by the tempest, and destroyed by the scythe of time, are prostrated in all sorts of con- fusion; and the spots cleared and cultivated by human industry and skill, contrast strangely with nature's wild- ness. The majestic oak, the stately cedar, the graceful tamarask, the tough hickery, the lofty pine, the saccharine maple, the useful elm, the spreading "beech, the hardy I': DIARY OF A TOUR 53 alder, and innumerable dwarf plants and curious creepers, all grow or lie in wild and rich profusion — ^the produce and the wreck of ages. From Gait the country is not particularly interesting till you approach within 4 or 5 miles of Dundas, when it becomes every furlong more and more beautifully picturesque. The approach to Dundas from Gait is very fine, in a view of wood, water and distant heights as you descend the high ground to the town. The country between Dundas and Hamilton is a succession of well- cleared estates, and presents many fine and noble views of forest-clad hills, lake scenery, and fine cultivation. The road about a mile or two within Hamilton passes the park and mansion of Sir Allan Macnab. The view of Hamilton and surrounding scenery as seen from the rocky heights above the city, is, without exception, one of the finest, most extensive, and diversified views that could be met with anywhere, and intermixed with rich verdure and forest. The property in the environs will improve daily, the building sites all around, especially those on the rising ground towards the heights, having greatly increased in value, and are now difficult to obtain in the best situations. The traveller here sees the beginnijigs of a noble city, and all the rich scenery of a bold and varied coast view, and the sea-like lake spread out befoxe him. An excellent hotel on the heights commando the whole of the magnificent views around 54 DURY OF A TOUR m ! I Hamilton, and in the direction of Dnndas, and East and West : embracing some very fine forest scenery inland. August 29th. — About 7 a.m. embarked in the Princess Royal Steamer for Toronto, and arrived about 11 a.m. The view of the city from the lake approach is fine, and has an English aspect ; landed and walked for an hour about the city — ^King-street is the principal Street, but wants width — ^in i- are to be had all the necessaries of life and its luxuries ; the houses generally are solidly built, and there are some fine buildings. Two churches it appears have been recently burnt down. Saw" Mr. Widder, the Canada Company^s Commissioner, who had returned from Niagara with his family. Re- embarked in the same fine steamer for Kingston — ^fare 5 dollars, including meals and state-room bed. Met Col. and Hon. Mrs. Dyneley (sister to Lord Ellenburgh,) his son and daughter, and Adjutant Mr. Pipon. The Col. was on his tour of inspection, and had just visited fort George, and the forts near Lake Huron. The Col. is a Maida and Waterloo man, and knew many of my 31st and 78th friends, and we had some interesting reminis- cences over a glass of wine. The mention of Waterloo reminds me of some interesting correspondence with various officers who fought and were wounded in that decisive and bloody battle of which the following are extracts : The first is from Capt. W. G. Cameron, 1st Foot, Guards, dated Bruxelles, 20th July U imp DIARY OP A TOUR 55 ! 1815. "I have forgotten to give you any detailed account of what befel me on the 18th, which I will now endeavour to send you. Not being attached as Q.M. Gen. to any division I was attendant on de Lancy, and con- sequently always in the suite of the Duke of Wellington. Poor de Lancy fell before me, having received a cannon- shot in his body, occasioning a most desperate wound, against which he struggled, notwithstanding, for a week; — ^upon his removal, in which I assisted m some degree, I followed the heels of his successor on the spot, Lieut. Col. Torrens Until half-past 6 in the evening of the memorable 18th, all was well with me : I had received a grape-shot through my foraging cap, and my horse was twice wounded, but we were still capable of scouring the field. At length, whilst separated from the Dulte of Wellington's suite, but pushing forward to regain it, an unfortunate heavy shot brought me and my charger to the ground, carrying away my right arm, great part of the flesh of my right thigh, and killing the horse in- stantaneously. I was then carried off by two Dragoons, laid across one of their horses and brought during the night into Bruxelles, when I fell into the hands of an ignorant Surgeon, who has done me much mischief. A large abscess formed a few days after in my thigh, whicli on being oiyened, it was found the silver in my purse had been flattened into a mass by the shot, and turned up with the lacerated flesh at the flrst dressing, and occaBioned '?< 56 DLiRY OP A TOUR ' •I r ;■*■ the abscess. Smee its removal, the wound in my thigh is doing well. These are the particulars which have occurred to me. I am mending daily, and could I but secure my majority, should think it an exchange more than equivalent to the loss of my right arm and the pain I have suffered." Another extract is from a letter of Lieut. Mill, 13th Light Dragoons, dated Gennvilliers, 15th July, 1815. " We are now enjoying ourselves in Paris, our quarters being only 3 miles from that celebrated city. The Emperors are all here, and everything is as gay as possible. I must confess we earned all the pleasure we find here, as I believe never was a harder battle fought than at Waterloo: we lost — 3 officers killed, and 9 wounded — some were not returned — in short, there was only your friend Bowers who was not hit, either in himself or horse. His brother is wounded in the head, and George Doherty's life was saved by his watch, having a musket-ball embedded in its centre. I consider myself very fortunate in escaping as I did with only a sabre-cut in my sword-hand, and a few contusions, in being knocked off my horse and rode over by our own Dragoons, as well as the French. My charger was wounded by a thrust in the head, and lost for several days, but I fortunately found him at last with the King's German Light Dragoons, and he is likely to recover." During our trip we coasted the Newcastle district, and passed the the Port of Oobourg, where a number of DIARY OP A TOUR 57 [high lave but lore I pain H. P, officers reside* We reached Kingston, after a delightful sail, at 6 a.in. August 30th. — ^Parted with Col. and Mrs. Dyneley and family, the Col. purposing to visit the forts at Bytown, and descend the Ottawa to Montreal. Landed at Kingston and walked about the town, which is solidly built, and of consideiable extent — ^the 20th Regiment are now stationed here with detachments in the forts. The lake approa h to Kingston is strongly fortified with forts and Martello towers. Embarked on board the Highland'^r steamer for Mon- treal, to pass through the Thousand island, •, and descend the St. Laurence. Soon after quittir^or Kingston you pass Long Island, 12 miles long, and St, John's Island, 9 miles, and then you enter on the splendid scenery of the " thousand islands," apparently innumerable, but are said tx) be upwards of 2000. Willis's Island was pointed out as the resort of Ben Johnson, a noted smuggler, who burnt the Sir Robert Peel Steamer, on the south side of that island, having a grudge against the Britishers for pruning his smuggling propensities. Here the St. Law- rence appears quite obstructed by woody islands of all shapes and sizes ; and thus impeded, the current becomes accellerated, and you rush through indescribable scenery, the most varied, rich, and magnificent in nature. Tourists, who have leisure and taste, ouould come here to gratify it, and to see the scenery to the best advantage, they 58 DIARY OP A TOUR \M should descend in a British boat, and ascend in an Ameri* can one, as the British and American boats keep each their own side of the river, which here being exceedingly wide (7 or 8 miles,) the thousand island scenery can only be seen to the best advantage by a double inspection, and especially by the ascent of the river, which being against the current, is necessarily slow and gives time for accurate observation. We arrived at Brockville about 11 a.m. The St. Laurence is about 2 miles wide at Preston, on the British shore, and at Ogdensburg, on the American side, which is the largest town of the two. Preston is protected by a fort. These towns are nearly opposite to each other. About 2 p. m. we reached the Long Sault Eapid, where the river is pent up, and turning at a right angle is greatly agitated, and a sort of whirlpool is formed in the midst of numerous woody islands, and you proceed on through beautiful and eddying rapids, and varied scenery, which banishes fatigue and ennui In our progress down, pas» 6ed the interesting white spire of the Indian village of St. Regis, inhabited by Romish Indians, who have a resident priest. Through St, Regis runs the boundary line 45® north lat. between the U. S, and the British territory, which in indicated by metal posts fixed in the ground, with " Ashburton Treaty" on them. Opposite to St. Regis, on the Canada shore, a Mr. Macdonnel has a fine estate, of 600 acres. A little further down is mmktm DIARY OP A TOUR 59 Cornwall, also on the British bank of the river. Then Bucceeds the expansion of the river into lake St. Francis. About 8 p. m. we reached Coteau du Lac, where the bulk of the passengers landed, and went on by rail to Montreal. Here it was necessary to remain till the morning, previous to the descent of the dangerous rapids between this place and Montreal, called the Cedars and Cascades. August 31. — The morning was foggy, and the few passengers who remained on board the Highlander, to shoot the rapids, were detained till the fog cleared up, which it did about 10 a. m. We then started with Indian pilots, who alone can steer safely through these dangerous waters, of which there is a succession at intervals, each increasing in interest and danger as you proceed. The first is " the Cedars," the second " the Cascades." As we approached the first, I went forward to view the scene and watch the eye of the chief Indian pilot, who now had the charge and guidance of the vessel, and on whose skill our lives depended. His position was elevated in a kind of tower in front of the hurricane deck, and about 10 or 12 yards in rear of the head of the boat, and is a most com- manding position, with sufficient space for several hands to help at the wheel. The Indian's eye was intently fixed on the course before him. He seemed alive to nothing but present duty, and safely steered us through the wind- ing channel and surroimding breakers ; and in surveying the scene, one could not help admiring the temerity and 60 DIARY OP A TOUR. :J boldness of man. I thought on dear James, and v;ished him, Mr. W. and his boys present to admire and wonder. The last danger of " the Cascades" is the most apalling, where the river is intersected diagonally by a ledge of granite rocks, with hardly any interval for an exit, or room for the steamer to shoot through. Here I witnessed all the powers and energies of the Indian character in active exercise, not with weapons of destruction, the tomahawk and scalping knife, but in the peaceful pursuits of every day life, and in insuring the safety, and not the destruc- tion, of his fellow man. He was dressed as any other pilot, but in his countenance you at once detected the wild man, and that he had all the nerve and resolution of his race ; age about 30, and an Atlas in strength. His dark penetrating eye was intently fixed on the devious course before him, and he steered the boat through the turbulent rapids and rocks, with an accuracy and safety the passenger would almost think impossible. At the most dangerous point of the " Cascades" the river is one sheet of boiling surges, with only one narrow outlet in the centre: the Scilla and Charybdis of the scene — the rocks on either side appearing near the surface, and a passage of not more than 60 or 60 feet, through which the water rushed as down a descent, while it broke on the sunken ridges of the granite rocks all around/ — through all these dangers and difficulties the keen eye of the Indian brought us safely. Ho was a very fine specimen DIARY OF A TOUR. 61 . v;islied wonder. apalling, ledge of or room essed all in active )maliawk of every i destruc- my other ected the olution of ^ h. His le devious rough the md safety . At the ver is one itlet in the icene — the ace, and a Ligh which oke on the r-through jye of the 3 specimen of the wild man — ^his features quite characteristic, dark copper complexion, an eagle eye, and most athletic and muscular in person, and a physiognomy denoting ** He coidd do or die." It is only within 3 or 4 years since this dangerous passage was attempted, at first by Indian canoes, and then by the steamers steered by Indians ; and only one has been lost since : it can never be safely attempted in thick weather, and should a mist or fog suddenly arise before xhe passage is completed, a wreck must inevitably ensue, as it would be impossible to anchor, and there would be no resource but a sauve qui peut on planks, like that of St. Pcul at Milita. After these animating scenes, it is charming to glide into the smooth and expansive channel of the St. Lau- rence, near its confluence with the brown waters of the Ottawa. The approach to Montreal is extremely inte- resting — the city, with its Cathedral, Churches, Market Place, and other buildings ; its glittering shining roofs and domes and spires are seen extending along the bank of the river, with an island just below, and backed up inland by the Montreal Mountain, clothed with wood, and studded with villas and various other buildings interspersed with gardens and shrubberies. After landing, I walked about the city, and saw a good many public and private buildings in ruins from fire, especially the Parliament House and the large hotel, &c., which gave 62 DIARY OP A TOUR. !■ Su 'A the idea of a sad unsettled state of things, and not much security for person and property. Ascended the Montreal mountain, and admired the splendid view beneath, and up and down the St. Lau- rence. Saturday, September 1st. — Took railway early to La Chine, and embarked in a steamer for Hawkesbury, on the Ottawa, which, here at its junction with the St. Laurence, resembles a lake, and indeed soon becomes le lac des deux montagnes — ^its waters are the colour of tan, and make a sombre contrast with the clear green waters of the St. Laurence, which retain their purity till contaminated or rather, invaded, by their duskj'^ neigh- bour, for the two rivers retain their respective hues in two distinct streams (though in contact,) till the mighty waters of the St. Laurence, some 20 miles below Mon- trep^ , overpower those of the Ottawa, and recover their native purity. At the foot of les deux montagnes we passed an Indian Village, with its pretty spire, inhabited by the remnants of 3 Tribes, viz. : the Iroquois, who dwell on the west of the village church, and the Algonquins, and Nipisings east of the church — they are all Romish Christians. Had some interesting conversation with a passenger, who gave me much information about the country, and the Indians, of which only 5 villages now exist in lower i DIARY OP A TOUR. 69 Canada, viz. : St. Kegis, on the boundary line of 45®. The village Lac des deux Montagues, just alluded to ; Coughnawaga (Iroquois,) opposite to Montreal ; a village of Indians opposite 3 rivers ; and Lorette (Hurons) on the river St. Charles, 10 miles from Quebec. On exchanging cards at the termination of our voyage, I found myself acquainted with the celebrated Mons. Louis Pappineau, a seigneur, and a member of the legis- lature of Canada. He told me he was on his way to visit his seigneury, which was some 15 or 20 miles above Hawkesbury, and was in extent 15 miles long, and 10 wide, or 150 square miles, contiguous to the Ottawa, and on its north bank. We, who were going to Hawkes- bury, landed on the south bank, while the passengers for Byetown landed on the north bank, to avoid the rapids and shallows in the river ; each party had to make several miles of land journey ; ours was 12 miles by Diligence on a good road, commanding here and there very fine views of the river, and the woody ranges near Byetown. At the point where we landed the river is about 250 to 300 yards wide, and of a deep tan colour : the volume of water is at prese*it small, and the stream fordable in many places ; the banlcs are picturesque. On approaching Hawkesbury, a thought struck me as I was about to visit a strange family, whether my letters of introduction, forwarded by post from New York, had gone safely — otherwise I should be in dilemma— on i 64 DIARY OP A. TOUR :( tf M r arriving, to my dismay, I found my friends had not received the letters, but had been informed there were two strange letters to their address advertised in the list of those not forwarded by the American authorities, for want of the frontier postage — as all letters posted in the States for Canada, require that the frontier postage should be paid by the sender — and this my friend (whom I had requested to post the letters) had neglected to do ; — my new friends had written about them, remitting the postage, and daily expected them — after explanations on my part I was very kindly received, and hospitably entertained, and stayed with them 3 days. September 2nd — The Sabbath. — ^There being no service this morning at the Episcopal Church, attended the Presbyterians, and heard a good sermon from the Rev. Mr. Mair. The text " So run that ye may obtain." Man cannot run at all in the right path without the aid of God*8 Spirit, which must be earnestly prayed for, and then real and patient perseverance must complete the good work, and the race will be won. Walked with Mr. H. to the Episcopal Church, which stands on an eminence, and commands an extensive out- line of woody hills in a north and north-easterly direction, and river scenery, Monday 3rd Sept. — Mr. H. took me to see his saw- mills at work, which are put in motion, and worked by water-power, and are on a very grand scale, complete, i DIARY OF A TOUR 65 ad not were in the orities, 3ted in )ostage [whom to do; ing the ions on pitably ing no ttended on) the obtain." the aid For, and ete the , which ve out- rection, is eaw- rked by )mplete, and complex in the work they do, sawing up, in a few minutes, immense trunks of trees, or rather ready-shaped cylindrical frustrums of wood into planks, which are then placed under circular saws, which cut them of an uniform length fit for rafting — ^they are then discharged by the machinery to workmen outside, and are plunged into the docks to be framed, or cribbed, into rafts, which, when completed, are of immense size, containing 60 or 70,000 deals, each worth from J to J a dollar. These rafts are> at the proper season, when the Ottawa is large, floated down it and the St. Lawrence to Quebec, where they are shipped to England, and all parts of the world. This is called the lumber trade, and a very profitable one it has been, but recent laws, I hear, have cramped it. Messrs. H. employ an immense number of hands, European, Canadian, and Indian, who are severally employed in felling and preparing the timber for the markets of the world. Some of the Indians go 100 or 120 miles from Hawkesbury into the wilderness to select timber, and when a locality is exhausted of its large trees, another is sought out by these indefatigable pioneers of the forest, and thinned in like manner. The Government grant the privilege of felling for a certain rent, and the Indians give information of the woody districts where large timber is to be found. The whole of the establishment at Hawkesbury Mills is on a very large scale ; and the family being numerous they have two dwellings — one a B 66 DIARY OP A TOUR 1^ ! Is •i^ 1 1 large mansion, where on his late visit Lord Morpeth was accommodated ; and the other a large and elegant fur- nished cottage residence, and these are used ad libitum as the season makes one or the other most agreeable and convenient. I had the honor of a State bed-room in the mansion, and joined Mrs. H. and family at meals in the cottage : the whole routine of which was so well regu- lated and bountifully supplied, that one had nothing to desire, the society being as congenial as the minor conco- mitants were in unison. Departed with Mrs. S. in a curricle and pair, provided by kind friends at Hawkes- bury, in the afternoon, and there being some haste in our start to save the steamer, and in the confusion of departure from two habitations, I was prevented from taking leave of Hennie and Isabella H., and their kind Mama, which I now notice to exculpate what might appear negligence on my part, and I beg them to accept my present thanks and souvenir for the past omission. Descended the Ottawa in Capt. Shepherd's steamer, whose wife was staying with her father at a pretty place on the banks of the river. Mrs. Shepherd's maid came out with their little one to greet papa en passant We did not reach Montreal till late. Tuesday, 4:th September. — Embarked in one of the fine steam-boats which navigate the St. Laurence to and from Quebec — the present one was about 120 yards long. Called at several places, including Port St. Francis and DIARY OP A TOUR 6T Three Elvers, where the Hon. Mat. Bell resided, to whom I had a letter of introduction, but he had died lately. Saw his house and plantations which overlook the river. For many miles below Montreal the banks are low, but begin to be bold 40 or 50 miles above Quebec, the approach to which is exceedingly beautiful. Ah you near the city, the promontory of Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, commands your attention, while between it and the opposite shore to Point Levy, innumerable vessels are at anchor or sailing. Below the city, and opposite Mont- morenci, the island of Orleans, in the direct channel of the River, apparently closes the exit, and gives it a lake-like appearance, with no egress downwards. Im- mediately opposite the city and citadel the banks of the River contract to about 1200 yards, and therefore what it loses in breadth it makes up in depth, which the im- mense volmne of water requires to find vent downwards, opposed as it is by the insurmountable obstacle of the Isle of Orleans exactly in mid-channel : accordingly the River between the narrows opposite Quebec is from 100 to 120 fathoms deep, and I was informed that ships have ever been in the habit of discharging their ballast into the stream, without its having in the least diminished the depth or obstructed the chann^ of the river. The banks on both sides are bold, rising 300 to 400 feet ; and north- east and south the distant mountains present an interest- ing and romantic prospect. 68 DIARY OF A TOUR i f )i ^ September 5th. — After visiting the lower town, started about mid-day to view the heights of Abraham, the scene of Wolff's victory and death. I first looked over the citadel and admired the view from the angular battery, next the river, which is unique, and incomparably interesting. About a mile from the glacis of the citadel you reach the column recently raised to the General's memory : a sjaall plain pillar at present (1849) without any inscription, standing on the very spot where the hero fell. The ground corresponds exactly with the pictures of the battle, and the written descriptions of it. A pro- prietor who resides on, or owns the land immediately above the heights, scaled by the Highlanders of Wolff's army, has shut out the public by a high whitewashed pali- sading, which is continued from the main turnpike -road down to Wolff's cove, where his army landed, and above which rise the heights of Abraham. Being admitted through this fence, I was enabled to examine the steep ; and am convinced, though difficult of access, the obstacles were only such as a skilful General, like Wolff, would determine to surmount to turn his enemy. On a general inspection of the whole scenery and position, the great wonder is that Montcalm should have left his strong-hold, to fight in the plain, instead of remaining within his fortifications, and concentrating his force. I refer the reader to Warburton's " Hochelaga" for many inte- resting particulars on this subject. DIARY OP A TOUR 69 Returned to Quebec by Wolff's cove, and the zig-zag or planlt road up the cliff, from which the observer has extensive and magnificent views of river and land scenery. Paid a second visit to the citadel, which is strong by nature and art ; it appeared to me, from the hasty view I had of it from one or two points, an irregular bastioned fortification, with numerous outworks at the weakest points, and immense faces of solid masonry of great height, where the foundation was a precipice — ^not having time to examine the whole of the works, I could not perceive the weak, or weakest points, but from the general interior and exterior view I did obtain, I should think the citadel and fortifications of Quebec are of great strength, and, with a sufficient garrison and provisions, could hold out indefinitely. The glacis in all parts appears, from the nature of the ground, to be abruptly short, but well smoothed down. At the upper angle of the citadel, on the river face, a heavy gun is mounted, en harhettCf on a pivot, and immediately adjacent, on a lower command are 7 or 8 large guns also en barbette. All these cannon have a fine range on the river, and completely command it with a plunging fire. On the land ide there appear to be 3 bastioned faces and curtains rivetted in masonry, with demilunes place dJarmeSf covered way, and glacis. September 6th. — Mr. T. sent a conveyance to bring 70 DUnT OP A TOUR !■ me to breakfast at his country house (Webi^nM,) where I had the pleasure to meet his wife and daughters. The place commands a fine view of the valley of the St. Charles, and the distant mountains. About noon we started in a curricle and pair, for the Falls of Mont- morenci, and after a very pleasant drive of about 10 miles, we suddenly came upon the bridge, some hundred yards above the Falls, where w^e alighted and walked down the banlis of the stream, which are high above the water, with abundance of wood. My kind friend Mr. T. pioneered for me, and I had to follow my leader through no choice path, but rather a fragmental one, covered with the debris of the precipices, and over loose planks and steeps, till we stood on the brink of a precipice, and beheld the Falls in all their beauty, as far as a diminished volume of water could display — ^it is a single Fall, and when the River is full must be strikingly grand* the cascade being 280 feet perpendicular, as plumbed by the Seigneur himself : a Yorkshireman (Mr. Patter- son,) who some 50 years back came out to Canada, and by diligence and integrity is now the possessor of the seigneury, and a princely mansion and domain, where we had the pleasure to partake of his hospitality and good cheer, and to drink some of the same madeira he set before Lord Morpeth. After the refreshment, he invited us to accompany him through a beautiful clover park, leading to a zig-zag road down the precipice, to mmmmmm DIARY OF A TOUR 71 i i V; his extensive saw-mills, driven by water-power, and witnessed them in full operation, sawing np simultane- ously an immense number of trees, or prepared frustrums, as at Hawkesbury. We compared notes about York- shire, and I found he had not forgotten his native place, Whitby. Lord Morpeth, during his late tour in America, had paid him a visit, and of course was highly gratified with the natural and artificial advantages of his property. We viewed the Falls to great advantage below from the mills, to which you are led by the zig-zag path before noticed — up this path we returned, and through a rich second crop of clover, which conducts to the mansion. The ascent back tried our lungs, and is certaingly better than any medicine for the health. We also had an excellent view of the Falls close to the mansion, or from the flower- garden in its front. Though the Seigneur produced his excellent madeira, I regretted he did not partake of it himself. He had eight men mowing down a second crop of clover equal to the rich crop we had passed through : his heart seemed to open out at our visit, and the re- currenco to his native place and country. We took leave, much gratified by the kindness of the Seigneur, who is now the owner of large possessions, the product of ingenuity, industry, and integrity. In our drive back to Quebec we had fine views of the River, the Isle of Orleans, Point Levy, the shipping, the city, and opposite shore of the River, and the oountrv 72 DIARY OP A TOUR i t r » i northwards, up the St. Charles River, and returned home time enough for a 5 o'clock dinner, and were made ex- tremely happy in the evening in the society of the ladies. Mr. T. projected a run to the Indian village of Lorette to-morrow morning, to include the society of the ladies. The River St. Laurence rises and falls 20 feet with the tide at Quebec. Mr. T. had to-day heard from the post-office authorities at Washington, that the letters I had brought out from Mr. C. had been destroyed, and therefore his introduc- tions, in my behalf, could never be known, as far as these letters were concerned — a summary and unwarrantable act on the part of Brother Jonathan, and not in the style of his usual business habits , as I understand it is usual to keep the detained letters at least three months before destroying them, and these were posted in July. Friday, September 7th. — Being a wet morning, the excursion to Lorette was given up, and I had not another opportunity to see my fair friends. After taking leave of Mr. T. I embarked to return to Montreal ; our passage was hindered by a dense fog, which obliged us to anchor, and our arrival was delayed till 10 o'clock a.m. On the passage from Quebec to Montreal I was told by a Canadian sportsman, that salmon are plentiful in the Jacques Cartier River, about 25 miles west of Quebec ; also in the Jacqueray River salmon are found in wonder« ful abundance ; and there is good fishing in Lake Charles, 1 I i DIARY OF A TOUR 73 Mr. Deane, a young Canadian, gave me some interesting information about the River Sanguanay, which enters the St. Lawrence, about 120 miles below Quebec. It is navigable for large vessels about 120 miles up its course to the Bay of " Ha Ha," so called by the Indians from its fine Echo. Such is the immense depth of this river that Mr. Dean said he had seen a ship's bowsprit entangled in the trees ashore, while her hull was riding in 60 fathoms of water, and the river 130 fathoms deep in the middle of the channel, which is from a mile to three-quarters of a mile broad. Lake St. John is about 300 miles due north of Quebec, and discharges its superfluous waters into the Sanguenay River. Saturday, 8th September. — On landing, drove to Major C.'s, and afterwards into the city, where I met Capt. Whetherel, whom I had not seen since we met at the Cape, in 1825. Sunday, September 9th. — Accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Scougai to St. George's Church, and heard a sermon by Mr. Leech — ^being at the extremity of the Church could not hear distinctly — the sentences I did hear were good. I observed in a very conspicuous site, and in juxta- position with other Churches (Episcopal and Romish,) an Unitarian conventicle, with an imposing portico, and in the centre of the pediment this inscription " Christian Church, xvii., John, 5th verse." Unitarians, by denying Christ's Divinity, do not seem to consider that they overset 74 DIARY OF A TOUR I t 1'^ .' 1 li ; 1 Christianity altogether, and reduce it to a mere human system with no ^'preciov^ bloocC' to atone for, and cancel human sin, and no " everlasting righteousness'* to cover the sinner's spiritual nakedness, and no omnipotant arm to van- quish man's great enemy, Satan, and if the great truths of Scripture are to be explained away as mere allegory, Satan wants no greater ad\'antage, for the great shield of faith is cast down, and the other Christian armour rendered useless. Such are the fearful results of saying as the Unitarians do " we want no atonement," but how they can say so with any reason in face of xvi. Liviticus, 21 and 22 verses, it is impossible to conceive. Besides it is allowed on all hands that Christ was faultless, a per- fect man fulfilling the whole law ; he was holy, harmless, and separate from sinners, therefore the sword of Divine Justice could not possibly touch him, except as a voluntary substitute for the sins of others, or in other words, as an atonement to reconcile God and man : so that God can be just and yet the justifier of guilty man. Montreal has a most brilliant appearance on a sunny day as you see it from the river approach — the site of the city is on a gentle ascent to the mountain, and the city, with its most conspicuous buildings, as the towers of Notre Dame Cathedral, the dome of the Market Place, and the various towers and spires of the churches and the public and private edifices, with the roofs of tin gleaming in the sun's rays, offer a view rarely to be met MMMMPH !i.i J I DIARY OF A TOUR with, and the whole backed up with the wood and verdure of the Montreal mountain. Monday, Sept. 10. — ^Wrote to Mr. H., enclosing Major B.'s letter to the Hon. M. B. as a substitute for those lost. I was detained here to-day owing to the day- steamer up Lake Champlain not sailing till Wednesday. Sept. 11. — Colman drove me to the quay to embark, and at parting, with suffused eyes bid me farewell. Crossed from Montreal to La Prairie, with a good many habitanSf male and female, and priests, and then went on by the cars to St. John's. The country we travelled through is well named La Prairie, being an extensive and verdant flat for many miles, conveyimc a good idea of the interminable western prairies. After tea at the hotel, embarked in the steamer for Lake Champlain, up which we sailed, and ran on to Plattsburg, the scone of a consi- derable contest in 1812. It is worthy of rek '•'<: that the Americans choose fine active well-dressed young men as commanders of steam-boats, ;^> irsers, check takers in rail- way cars, and such-like posts. Tlioy are the elite of the American youth of their class, and their ostensible aspect is a good introduction, niiJ gives the public confidence. Sept. 12th. — This morning started at 5 a.m. with beau- tiful weather for seeing the distant mountains, on either side of the lake. Saw some very remote: tlie white mountains and the Green Vermont Mountains very high. Touched at Burlington, which rises from the water's f ' 1^^ 4 1 1 i; I } ! 'I 76 DIARY OF A TOUR edge to a considerable elevation, by a gentle slope, and may number 5000 or 6000 inhabitants. Touched at several other places, particularly West-port, which is a beautiful locality, very inviting to halt at. Off Split Rock, the captain (a well-dressed genteel-looking man, wearing an immense diamond brooch,) assured me the lake was 1000 feet deep. Inland from West-port, lofty mountains are conspicuous. Among our passengers the captain pointed out the Editor of a Troy paper, and his young Bride, a playful and interesting school-girl, running about sport- ing with her husband, putting on his hat, &c. — quite re- freshing to witness her ease and happiness. About 1 p.m. reached the landing place at Ticonderago, where I landed, and had an hour or two to look about and inspect the sites and ruins of the forts on the heights above ; the main fort has originally been a work of some strength, in reference to Indian warfare, but against an enemy with cannon is useless, being commanded by Mount Defiance on the opposite side of the lake, within range, and con- sequently untenable. There are two works situated on a tongue of land, about 100 yards from each other, and con- nected by a sort of covered way, they are of irregular trac6 ; and rivetted in stone ; the innermost work is considerably larger than the one at the point of the promontory, which terminates in a rocky precipice next the lake, on the sum- mit of which the smaller fort stands : both are now in ruins. About 2 p. m. was conveyed in a stage over a rough 'i. I DIARY OF A TOUR 77 e, and several jautiful >ck, the ring an as 1000 ains are pointed Bride, a it sport- ][nite re- nt 1 p.m. where I d inspect 30ve ; the strength, lemy with Defiance , and con- aated on a ', and con- ;ulartrac6; msiderably ory, which )n the snm- ow in ruins. 7QV a rough road, through very interesting and romantic scenery, to the pier at Lake George, where a steamer was in readiness to convey passengers to Caldwell, at the other end of the lake. We embarked instantly, and the next moment were gliding through this beautiful sheet of water, nar- row, and full of sinuosities, and said to contain as many islands as there are days in the year. The scene changes at every 100 yards, smd about the centre, the mountains rise 2200 feet, and upwards, from the margin of the waters, and the banks and islands are clothed with wood, and verdure, and are of every shape and altitude — nothing could exceed the beauty of this scenery seen as we wit- nessed it with a refreshing breeze, a blue sky and a bright sun. The tourist, however, to see it to the best advantage, should sail one day up, and the next down the lake, beginning at Caldwell, the course from which is the most beautiful and interesting of the two. On reaching the hotel, I was astonished and delighted to hear my name echoing down the spacious staircase, and to see two pair of open arms, and sylph-like figures flying down to greet me, and not expecting any such good fortune, it required a moment or two for the recog- nition of those, who by the sound of my own name, were made a charming reality. Most kindly and frankly did my dear friends, the Misses H. greet me, whom I had expected to meet at Saratoga, and not at Caldwell. I i fil " j I I I J ! ( 78 DIARY OP A TOUR had the pleasure besides to become known also to their brother-in-law, and sister (Gen. and Mrs. C.) After refreshment in the Salle a Manger, we adjourned to the spacious and elevated balcony virandah, which over- looks the lake, and a great extent of wood and mountain scenery on its shores. The General adjourned to enjoy his cigar, and I was left in possession of the ladies, in whose charming society and converse, I soon lost all sense of fatigue of the day's journey. Sept. 13. — After breakfast Gen. Cooper drove me in his barouche and beautiful pair of greys, to see the ruins of Fort William Henry, where the English garrison capitu- lated to a French force (before the War of Independence,) and after evacuating the fort unarmed were inhumanly left to be intercepted by the Indians, and massacred. The General then drove to another fort, within musket shot of the large one, founded on :^ocky ground and a commanding eminence. The site of Fort William Henry is now over-grovrn with trees and underwood, so as to make it difficult to trace the entire pourtour ; but its situation is strong, protected on one side by the lake, on another by a marsh and by strong entrenchments. After a drive of 2 or 3 miles on the Saratoga road, the General pointed out a pond hard by the road, callod " Bloody pond," from the bodies of the 1 500 slaughtered by the Indians being cast into it. After viewing the pond, we drove back and through tlie village of Caldwell, and enjoyed the rich DIARY OP A TOUR 79 3 their After , to the over- 3untain Ljoy his whose ense of me in ruins of napitu- dence,) amanly .. The ; shot of landing is now make it ation is :her by irive of pointed i;'from s being ick and be rich landscape scenes, which every step of our progress disco- vered to us. We passed under a woody hill, called Rattle- snake Mountain, it being infested by these reptiles. After dinner we embarked in the General's boat for a row on the placid lake : in crossing it, you get very fine view s of the mountains on both sides of the lake and down it; scenes which a sketcher, who followed his calling con amore, would never tire of. After rowing across the lake, we landed with the ladies and rambled among the wild woody scenery on the margin of the lake. Thej^ skipped over every obstacle with the nimbleness of wood- nymphs, observing here and there excellent sites for a country villa, or rustic cottage, which the General talked of erecting for a summer resort, surrounded by this surpassing scenery. Afterwards re-embarked and re-crossed the lake to Pic Nic Island, where we also landed, and then rowed back to the hotel. I should observe that I do not recollect any where to have felt the air so bland and balmy — so " soft and soothing" as I did during this water excur- sion. On Pic Nic Island, a place resorted to for such parties, it was quite delicious, and in keeping with the surrounding scenery. •* If a cursed world possess such charms, What must have been the beauty of a world uncurst — Called by its great Creator * veri/ good* " On returning to the hotel we examined a couple of 80 DIARY OF A TOUR :f ^} S n h rattlesnakes, cauglit on the neighbouring mountain — they were enclosed in a deal case, with glazed doors, through which you could safely examine the noxious reptiles — the largest appeared to be about 4 feet long, and very thick about a foot from his head — they were horrible looking creatures, and the owner, every now and then, turned the case topsy turvey, to rouse the animals from their torpidity : though kept without any food for several months, they were, when roused, quite lively. The owner told me he had caught 70 last spring on Kattle- snake mountain, where, however, they were formerly far more numerous than at present. I understood him to say he caught them at this particular season (spring,) with a sort of noose thrown round the head. Sept. 14th. — After an adieu with my kind friends, Gen. and Mrs. C, and sisters, the latter gave me a beautiful rose, made up of the forest moss, and coloured silk, by their own fair hands, for Eliza, which I am sure will be warmly received, and highly prized. At parting, the Gen. invited me to his house in Albany, and kindly added, in an American idiom, " I wish to have your feet under my mahogany." Came on in the diligence from Caldwell, in company with a young clergyman, to whom ihe General had introduced me, and we had a good deal of interesting conversation about religion, and the importance of educa- tion for the people based on religion ; as it alone could f DIARY OP A TOUR. ax 1 — they hrough [)tiles — nd very lorrible id then, lis from several The Rattle- erly far . him to spring,) is, Gen. )eautiful silk, by will be ng, the kindly our feet ompany ral had cresting i educa- le could give them those great and fixed principles of honesty which make men good members of society, and happy in themselves : and this sort of education should be imiversal. After crossing the Eiver Hudson, near Sandhill, left the stage and took the cars for Saratoga, where we arrived about noon. The hotels here are of immense size — put up at the largest, the U. S. Hotel — walked about the place and environs, and saw the Congress Hall and other hotels. The walks about the Congress Hall lead to several springs, and are pretty and varied. Sept. 15. — Came on by the railway to Troy, through a picturesque country, with occasional glimpses of the Hudson, with its bold and woody banks and cultivated, farms. Troy appears to be a large commercial place, with steamers plying to and from New York. I took the cars for Albany, Canaan, and Lebanon, near to which is the village of the Shakers. The w^hole country passed through to-day is well cleared and cultivated, and has the appearance, between Canaan and Lebanon, of our own Derbyshire. Arrived at dusk, travelling with a person who said he had come from London to see the Shakers. The Sabbath — September 16th. — After breakfast walked 2 miles to the Shakers' village, to witness their mode of worship; the road to it is through fine and well cleared estates, under good culture, and having the DIARY OF A TO OR i i !iH Uif aspect of a Icng settled country — ^the approach to the village is very pretty, having many well-built habitations in the midst of gardens and orchards. Arriving an hour too soon, I found the community .it private worship in a large building adjoining their public place of worship, which is a large parallelogram, sufficient to hold 600 or 700; there are two large entrances in front — the left hand one for males, the other for females — there are besides end doors. During their private worship in the house above alluded to, I could hear their cheerful voices, and see the female figures through the windows, dancing a kind of animated step, in unison with their voices. As people began to arrive, I entered the church, and found the floor occupied by parallel rows of forms, half for males and half for females, sitting opposite to each other ; these forms were at right angles to the fixed seats, occupied by strangers, and which were ranged between, and on each side of the main entrances, so as to accomodate 200 or more. About half-past 10, the main body of the fraternity entered, and took their seats on the forms, the sexes opposite to each other, and ranged in parallel rows ; in number about 200 or upwards : after sitting silent awhile, all present behaving decorously, and the silence profound, the Shakers suddenly stood up and set aside their forms ; their rising all at once was startling — they then ranged themselves in opposite ranks, face DIARY OF A TOUR 83 roach to the It habitations Arriving an ivate worship lie place of icient to hold s in front — males — there ^ate worship :heir cheerful the windows, a with their i the church, ws of forms, : opposite to s to the fixed ,vere ranged nces, so as to he fraternity s, the sexes lei rows ; in itting silent , the silence nd set aside startling — ranks, face to face, and five or six deep, and an elder stepped out to offer thanksgiving and exhort. After two or three others had also spoken, and some singing had taken place, the ranks were again formed, and an aged man stepped out more to the front, apparently to preach to the visitors. He took his text from Revela- tions, about " the Mighty Angel who predicted that great Babylon should fall, and be the abode of every unclean thing, &c." Great BrJ Ion, ho .^aid, was the union of state power with the CI oh by Ccnstantine the Great — that God's people must come out of her, and that Great Babylon must be cast down — Generation must cease that Ee-generation may begin, and increase. He had recourse to figures from Christ's words " except ye eat my flesh and drink my blood, ye have no life in you." Here you see our Lord spoke spiritually, yet the Jews called it a hard saying, because they took his words naturally and not spiritually — they thought the Lord wished them to become Cannibals, whereas he ex- plained his meaning — " The words I speal?: unto you : they are spirit and they are life." All man- kind are born natural, and must become spiritual to understand spiritual things : nothing is done in creation without male and female spirits, and Regeneration is by them." After the discourse, the congregation resumed tlieir seats; and after some further exhortations from their 4 ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4^ 1.0 1.1 II.25 IM ■50 |Z5 u,m 12.2 Z LS, 12.0 u HlMu I m U 11.6 ^ 71 V y Photographic Sciences Corporalion •SJ <^ 33 WIST MAIN ITRIIT WIMTIR.N.Y. MSM (71*) 172.4903 ^^•^A.^"^ 6^ I; b I 84 DIARY OP A TOUR Elders, the forms were again suddenly set aside, and those Shakers who had their coats on took them off, and hung them on pegs ; and the whole appeared in their shirt sleeves, and men and women ranged themselves, as at first, in parallel ranks, standing, and one giving the ding- ing signal^ they commenced their orderly dance, keeping exact time, advancing and retiring upon each other, and by no means ungracefully — this went on for some time, when another formation succeeded, and the motions were more animated with a light dancing step, the hands keep- ing time as well as the feet — ^the figure being somewhat in concentric circles, had a mazy effect to the eye ; and this dancing was kept up with animated changes for nearly half an hour. Afterwards, with a brief thanksgiving, the service concluded. The females of this fraternity were uniformly dressed in white muslin caps, and light shawls and brown russet gowns; the men in brown russet trousers, blue cloth waistcoats, and drab coats and hats. The establishment here consists of about 350 of both sexes; the chief manager is Jonathan Wood, who resides opposite this place of worship, and has been at the establishment above 40 years ; there are a good many aged men and w^omen among them — the juvenile females had a delicate and pale complexion, as noticed by Mrs. Trollopo, and others. Tho visitors to day were numerous, probably 200, but all behaved becomingly. One stood up in the midst of the worship and addressed DIARY OF A TOUR 85 d those i hung ir shirt , as at e ding- [eeping ler, and le time, ns were Is keep- tnewhat and this ' nearly ing, the y were shawls russet id hats, of both I, who a been a good uvenile iced by y were tningly. dressed the Shakers, saying, he had come all the way from London, and travelled 4000 miles to see this people, and and that they should be his people. When the service was over, he joined the fraternity. Their territory comprehends several thousand acres of land in a beautiful hilly country, well stocked and cultivated, and is amply sufficient, with the produce of their ingenuity, to supply all their wants ; and their habitations are large wooden erections of two or three stories, affording ample accom- modation, and surrounded with gardens and orchards. Walked back to Lebanon Springs by another road, and in the evening attended the Presbyterian Church, and heard a good sermon by a preacher from Vermont, from text " Thy Kingdom Come." The preacher said, this, the Saviour's pattern prayer, is very comprehensive, as in its accomplishment will be realized all the blessings of Christianity, and the downfall of Satan's kingdom on earth. Monday, September 17th. — Took the Diligence, at Lebanon Springs, and after travelling several miles through a beautiful, varied and woody country, and past a lake, came to the station on the New York Line, and then took the cars for Boston, and was conveyed rapidly through a very interesting country, well cleared and cultivated, and populous, especially about Hinsdale, Chester factory, and Village. The train passed through Springfield, on the Connecticut River, and on to Wil- il h i! ' I '■' 86 DURY OF A TOUR braham, Palmer and Warren, where there is good fishing. At Worcester there is a large asylum for the insane, and a Eomanist College — reached Boston about 5 p.m., the rate of travelling being 20 to 25 miles the hour, including stoppages. The railway cars are, to my taste, far more agreeable and convenient than our*s at home, aw} cheaper, bsing about l|d. a mile — you sit at ease, and see the country, and you and your friend may occupy a seat to yourselves, each seat accommodating two passengers only. The cars carry each about 50 persons — the rows of seat? are about 12 in number, with a passage about two feet wide down the centre of the cars, from end to end, and the seats on either hand, each holding two persons, or four abreast — the backs of the seats are contrived to turn over, so that four friends, in pairs, can sit vis a vis. Each seat is well stuffed, and occupies about a yard in width, and distant from each other also a yard, and the seat itself about 18 inches deep — the height of the car is near seven feet, with a rounded roof. The windows have lattices, and silk blinds, and admit the air, and give the view. Walked to Park -street, to make a call, and in crossing the Park, passed the fountain in the public walk, which, this hot weather, is extremely refreshing, the wind scattering the cool spray most agreeably in one's face. In my ramble this evening saw several fine churches, and a numerous and active population all full of bustle and I 3 good for the L about les the , tomy )ur's at u sit at id may ^dating out 50 lumber, ntre of : hand, lacks of friends, stuffed, m each 1 inches with a id silk rossing which, ) wind ce. In \, and a tie and m DIARY OP A TOUR business. Many of the shops in Washington-streefe are splendid, and would ornament any city. During my recent journey in the cars, I had some conversation with a passenger, on the slavery question, and suggested to make it a national question, and raise a fund to indemnify those who inherited slave property, and embark the slaves for Africa. The gentleman quaintly replied, he would rather get rid of the Irish. Tuesday, September 18th. — In my way through the Park, which is a delightful verdant promenade, I had the opportunity of seeing the colours of the rainbow beautifully reflected in the mist of the jet-d'eau, by the sun's rays ; and by the waving of the watery shower in the cool breeze, I was much refreshed in visage and person, as also by the cool atmosphere to leeward of the fountain. Rode out to Mount Auburn, to see the cemetery there, which is extensive, covering, I was told, 110 acres, and has the appearance of a woody wilderness, containing a large quantity of wild timber, and a surface of hill and dale, allowing scope for walks in the Labyrinth style. The mousoleums, enclosures, and tomb-stones are innu- merable, awd read a good moral and religious lesson of Bible verities, and the uncertainty of life. Here is an antidote to the resolve "Soul take thine ease." The tombs are of various patterns, according to the taste and purse of those that raise them. The inscriptions not M 1 i I 88 DIARY OP A TOUR being blackened on the white marble slabs, cannot be easily made out without a near approach. Here in pensive solitude, the pious, the affectionate, and the sensitive heart may, and often does, give vent to its feelings — as was evident by the chaplets and wreaths of the ever- lasting flowers, suspended here and there ; and by the little garlands and beds of flowers, trained by a brother, a sister, or a parent's hand. Who that has a heart bat would join in sympathy with the children of grief, for the loss of tender ties, too oft abruptly severed; alas ! we are mortal, and cannot escape the King of Terrors. " Death is the doom of all the sons of earth, And such the sad conditions of our birth." Approaching the church of the cemetery, I perceived the door open ; and expected, on entering, to find some one in charge, but no — ^no one could be thought capable of misbehaving in so sacred a place, and the visitor was left to his own reflexions, and to the solitude, so suitable, congenial, and desirable to those whose minds can be softened and solemnised by surrounding objects, and the consciousness of this being the la^t receptacle of the dead, where the last act of earth h performed by surviving friends, to the now cold and inanimate body — no longer an instrument of the soul, but a clod of earth. One of the epitaphs in the cemetery on a young lady, aged 16, ran thus : — DIARY OP A TOUR S9 •gS' inot be tensive nsitive as e ever- by the »rother, art bat grief, jvered : ing of pceived i some japable or was litable, can be nd the e dead, viving longer r lady, ^ I " At the last parting Of all earthly ties, the pious thought gushed Forth that with a noble light had tinged The current of her pious life. There is No fear in death. As I have loved you Here, so shall I love you in our home On high, and there our sweet communion Be eternal." — "Henceforth thou art to us A precious pearl-drop set in memory's gold, Still purely gleaming from a cloudless sphere To cheer us heaven-ward where we part no more." Returning to Boston, had the good fortune to see Mr. Jenkins, and to spend a pleasant evening with him and his wife. This evening encountered in the public walk, or park, opposite to the State House, a number of youths playing at a game (cudgel and ball) much practised in Yorkshire, and in which, when a boy, I used to join in with delight, and in the same impetuous style in which these boys played with all their heart ; I could not help a long look at them. Everything here showa Anglo-Saxon origin and bears the impress of " the old country," as they term England — cartainly if ever two nations had motives to love and serve each other, it is the English and Ameri- cans — let each nation bury old animosities engendered by the selfish and narrow minded policy of by-gone 90 DURY OP A TOUR. ages, ard only contend who shall most benefit the other. Wednesday, September 19th. — Went on board two very fine ships, the first to sail being the *•' Washington Irving," on the 5th October, with " first-rate" accom- modation, at 60 dollars the passage — a little incident decided me, if I could get away so soon, to sail in this vessel : there was an elegantly boimd Bible, and also a Testament, in the ladies cabin, which augured good, and that the captain was a Christian. Afterwards I visited Cbarlestown, a suburb of Boston, where the battle called "Bunker's Hill" was fought. A lofty monument commemorating the battle and the death of General Warren, stands on the ground where the General fell. I ascended the monument by an interior staircaise' — it is a quadrilateral pyramid terminating in a rounded vertex, and is a substantial monument of white granite 220 feet high ; the ascending steps, as I counted them were 294, to which must be added 20 feet more for the surmounting vertex. The prospect from this elevation is beautiful, as far as can be viewed from a window at each quarter of the compass, or face of the pyramid. \.* As the spectator cannot conveniently take his views from these ill-contrived windows, and is, besides, liable to take cold from the draughts and gusts of wind rushing through them, an external gallery might be contrived, and would be a great improvement^ to enable the visitor DIARY OP A TOUR n to view the prospect with comfort and advantage ; if the cone-shaped summit was taken down, an elevated platform would be obtained for the construction of the requisite gallery for viewing the extensive, vari d, and charming panorama around, of all that eaith,in its highest perfection, can show. General Warren was a General of the Militia, and not in command at the period, but in going out to dinner he heard the firing, and galloped down to the scene of action; where joining the combatants he fell on a spot near the monument. The Government are now fixing a granite block, with an inscription indicating the exact spot where the General fell The Government Arsenal is aL-30 seen, with the Men of War covered in, as at Woolwich and other of our own Dock yards. In my way to and from Charles Town, I eaw many quays, and wharves, and warehouse^ most solidly built, some of granite and some of brick. The 'iiincy Market is a most substantial and well contrived market, about 200 yards long, for fruit, vegetables, &c. &c. Thursday, 20th September.— At 9 a.m. took the train for Laurence, passing through an interesting cor.ntry. It stands upon the river Merimac, which is dammed up by a powerful dam to feed the various mills at this place- walked out to N. Andover, about 2 miles, on a sandy soil, not destitute of wood; and in my way saw an immense manufactory standing on the bank of the River ft DIARY OP A TOUR. II Mi: , ! l!l with a front of about 360 yards ; it it called " The Bay State Manufactory," Samuel Laurence & Co., of Boston, being the chief managers. The Co. consists of an in- definite number of individuals, the shares being saleable like those of a Joint Stock Co. Returned to the station at Laurence time enough for the train to Lowell, and on arriving there was surprised at the extent of the place. I went into the centre of the town, and saw hundreds of the factory girls just going to their work, after dinner — very neatly dressed in the American bonnet, and green veils, which many of them handled most gracefully, and the luxuriant beauty, and rich tresses of some looked quite enchanting. Having permission to visit one of the largest mills in the place (Prescott's) where an immense number of hands, male and female, are employed, I availed myself of it, and was astonished to see the many processes the cotton undergoes from the raw material, till it is spun and wound on the jennies and wove into cotton, all done by complex machinery, set in motion by water, and attended to by the factory girls, who, in many instances, are charming creatures, w^ell deserving the epithet of young ladies, and I should think that man a fastidious and callous being who could long hesitate to choose a wife among so much youth and beauty. I was delighted to witness the cheerfulness and activity, the contentment and decency which prevailed among those girls, and there are 700 or 800 employed in this DIARY OF A TOUR. 93 'he Bay Boston, an in- saleable station and on 3 place, ireds of nner — green ly, and looked of the imense yed, I many al, till e into on by many ? the aan a isitate y. I ivity, mong 1 this one Factory alone. The work geneially requires great attention, care, and much expertness of fingers. I was particularly struck with the strong Anglo-Saxon character of the Lowell-girls — ^they bear the impress of their English origin in their aspect and features, as well as in the native elegance of their carriage and de- meanour. Many of the fair hands so numerously employed are farmers daughters from the surrounding country, who prefer Factory work before anything menial. I took the rail to return to Boston, deeply impressed with the con- viction that Lowell was a famous nursery for wives, and to be prized accoidingly. Friday, September 21st. — This morning, started at 7 a.m. for Worcester, Springfield on the Connecticut to New Haven, which we reached about noon. It is a very well built town, the seat of Yale College. This was the peach season, and here they were to be had in perfection, either white or blooming, fully ripe ; I purchased four white ones for 2 cents (about an English penny,) which were delicious. Dined excellently, with dessert after, for ^ a dollar, at the Tontine hotel, and no hurried meal. A young gentleman, a student, who sat next me at dinner, Mr. Easter, accompanied me to see Colonel Trumbul's gallery of paintings, given by him to the College : the admission money being to support some students at the College. The best picture in the collec- tion is that of General Washington, in full military ^P f =' \i Hi ! V ! 94 DURY OP A TOUR costume, taking his measures to cut oif Lord Comwallis* detachments, at Trenton. There are also several other portraits of celebrated men, who figured during the war of Independence, and some professors of Yale College, particularly the great theologian, Dr. Dwight. Again took the Railway Cars at 4 p.m. and reached N. York about 8 p.m. n|^ich fatigued, and covered with dust. The course of the Railway, from New Haven, is through a sandy and generally level country, not much wooded, and shewing a great extent of grass and grazing land. On the wet level flats, liable to be flooded, they have a curious method of harvesting their hay on the ground where it grows, in cocks placed upon small piles which are firmly fixed in the ground, and rise from 6 to 12 inches above its surface, thus securing the hay when the meadows are flooded. The train of cars stopped as we approached the city, and horses being attached, we were slowly drawn on through the streets to the centre of the city, not far from the Astor House. Saturday, September 22nd — The New York Omni- buses are very light convenient vehicles, and accom- modate 19 inside, and 3 outside — ^the charge is six cents the whole distance ; they have no conductor, the driver being (on their plan) sufficient to drive, take the fare, and superintend the entrance and exit of passengers. In all public conveyances in the States and Canada, M DIARY OP A TOUR 95 ■I ■s females are treated with the greatest respect by all ranks of men, which begets a corresponding confidence in the fair, that their feelings and character will be respected : in the new world they are not subject to the foolish and whimsical restraints which too frequently prevail in long civilized commimities, and in times of over-strained refinement — ^the conventional formfof which I have known used to cloake malice and persecution, and have seen the sad effects on the unfortunate victims. No doubt in this doomed world, cursed "for man's first dis- obedience, and the fruit of that forbidden tree," we have nothing left but a choice of evils, for the Prince of this world ruleth — but there is one good way to muzzle his malice and oppression by stern laws, to punish the private traitor, hypocrite, and oppressor ; and by schools of instruction to inculcate confidence among the youth of both sexes, and cultivate a high sense ai)d value of a virtuous character, together with the compulsory law of opinion and habit, to promote marriage at an early age, as the most respectable and happy state for either man or woman, would go far to disarm the legion of evils of the present life. The aid, confidence and love of the sexes are mutually required to modify and lighten the cares and evils of life, and not make them irremediable by discord, hatred, and disunion, for this is the DeviPs work and His Agents. Some may start at the word " compulsory/" but are we not under the law of compulsion 96 DIARY OF A TOUR if and necGBsity in imvy things: are we consulted whether we will be born into this world or not, whether we w^U be connected in parentage and relationship, with those with whom we are connected — whether we will be rich or poor — wise or ignorant? — certainly not, and therefore the law of necessity, when founded on wisdom and honest experience, resulting in just laws and customs, it should be our desire and happiness to uphold. In training the young, a false shame should be de- precated, and gentleness, goodness^ and truth encouraged, and shame attach to nothing but vice and wickedness, and especially to a false, and lying, and slanderous tongue — dn a word the mind should be trained to good dispositions and christian charity, as defined by St. Paul to the Corinthians ; then we should see the Phoenix of regeneration arise, and the Millennium commence its reign of virtue, happiness, and love. The picture which these reflexions present is not chimerical, for to sever the sexes by strife, hatred, and injury, is to set man against himself at the very source and foundation of his happiness. I have seen, felt, and know what the follow- ing extract means, and it is not in the least too strong, however appalling the reality. "There is a grief which may darken a whole life- time, shut out the heart from every influence but its own, remain unchanged through every change of varied fortune, flinging its own broad shadows over every thing that is fair and good DIARY OP A TOUR 97 whether we will ith those be rich herefore om and itoms, it . be de- ouraged, ikedness, anderous to good St. Paul Loenix of its reign ch these ever the let man )n of his 3 follow- strong, ole life- its own, . fortune, y that is d good — ^itsown bitterness over alHhat is flw^6t ; it goes abroad with a smooth brow and a smiling lip, except in a mo- ment of mental absence, when the spontaneous scowl will arise — ^it knows not the relief of tears, and the language of complaint it disdains ! none have fathomed its depths, for its existence is denied — ^to be understood it must be felt by its withering influence, and seen by its blasted eftects — pride is mingled with its strength, for the hidden soul knows there is that within which has blasted its hopes, and parts it from its kind, and perhaps triumphs in this agonizing consciousness." Diabolical is the spell, and strange the infatuation of idolatry, but whenever the human mind gives itself up to blind affection, irrespective of merit and worth in the beloved object, so surely may it be fatally prostrated, as described in the above extract. Visited Trinity Church, New York — an elegant struc- ture, elaborately ornamented, and arranged much the same as our best Churches in London, such as St. Pancras, the Temple Church, &c. ; it, however, wanted light, ai?d I think would be improved by a diminution of the stained glass, which deadens the light. Crossed the Fulton-Ferry to Brooklyn — a largo suburb of New York, and was struck with the dexterous style in which passengers, traffic, horses, carriages, and waggons, with their loads, are incessantly crossing and re-crossing this Ferry, the distance about one-third to half a mile. 98 DIARY OP A TOUR h diagonally across the stream. There are on either side of the Ferry two harbours, or receptacles, for the stea mers arriving and departing; the boats are divided into three parallel compartments, running longitudinally from head to stern : the centre one for all sorts of vehicles, horses, and cattle, and the side compartments for male and female passengers respectively, though no objection is made to a mixture, if agreeable to the parties crossing. When I reached the Ferry, and was standing (as I thought) on the wharf, ready to enter a steam ferry-boat, anon I felt the whole concern move on with its immense burden of man, beast, and merchandise, and glide into the River, and just as one ferry-boat leaves, another arrives and enters the adjacent dock, so that an incessant flow of traffic of all kinds is passing to and fro with scarcely a moment's pause, or delay. The Americans are certainly an ingenious, active, and enterprising people. Called on Captain Lowber, at Brooklyn, and saw his wife — a most agreeable lady, and just such a wife as is suitable for him — she said when the wind was adverse, she always took care to be out of the way. He is now superintending the building of a new ship, in which I should like to make another voyage with him. Found out Mr. Allen, who was very glad to see me — astonished of course, having no pre- vious notice; his mind had to rush across the Atlantic to realize my presence, and his reception of me was really flattering. We afterwards met at the New York Hotel. DIARY OF A TOUR 99 Br side cf tea mere ito three om head J, horses, id female made to When I jught) on on I felt burden of he River, rives and t flow of carcely a certainly w his wife is suitable le always intending :e to make , who was g no pre- tlantic to vas really c Hotel. m I then visited the State-House — a marble structure — and afioended to the summit, from which there is an extensive view of the city, the distant country, and the River on both sides of Manhattan Island, on which New York is built Was introduced to Mr. and Mrs. Smith, who reside at Peterborough. Mr. Smith is one of the largest landowners in the State of New York, and a great advocate for abolition, and has given away hundreds of thousands of acres to poor emigrants and emancipated slaves. September 23rd — ^The Sabbath. — ^Attended divine service at the Marble Church, at the top of Broadway, which is a splendid structure. Cousin William brought his wife to see me, who made much of me, and we are to have an en famille dinner together to-morrow. In the atlernoon, Mr. Allen took me to hear Dr. Hawk, whose church was crowded — a good sermon on Christ the ransom for sinners. " The invitations of the Gospel are general to the whole human race, and none need perish, except through the pride and scorn of their own natm'al heart." In the evening heard a Dutch reformed minister, in a beautiful Porticoed Church, near Broadway. Text " These all died in the faith." ,At the head of this chapter we Jiw^e {etfifl tfte i)re»cto;^jadfiiiitjci4 of faith succinct anil "cbinpfeKeii&ivd. ' If 'We** lose ••sight of Christ weWe/ihrdarioiaeu.-.V'lf \fc r^sC «6£'m of the you must )ly carried out by the United States in the enrolment of their militia. Before going to the field, a lunch and Champaign were on the General's table, and partaken of generally. After the Mayor's parade, the 0£&cers adjourned to Sing-Sing, with music, and dined at the several hotels, where Cham- paign also circulated freely, with suitable toasts. Brig. General Darhee, of Brooklyn, eloquently addressed the Major-General's table. After dinner, the inspection and review by Brig. General Lockwood took place, after which, he sent up a detachment of Dragoons to announce to the Major General the troops were ready for his inspection,upon which we went down to the field mounted. The Major General was received with a discharge of artillery, and a general salute from the troops, and after going down the front and rear of the line, the Cavalry, Artillery, and Infantry marched past, and afterwards went through some manoeuvres. After all was over we adjourned to Staff Surgeon Brandnum's elegant mansion, on the margin of the Hudson, where a handsome collation, and Champaign refreshed the Chief, and Officers, after the fatigues of the day— one of the finest that could be imagined. The Major General who is '^n eloquent man, and many years a senator, at length alluded to my relative, whose absence from illness he lamented : he then spoke of myself as an old officer, who with the practiced eye of a veteran had witnessed the doings of that day, and would carry away. 104 DIARY OF A TOUR ! ! u III he trusted, a favourable impression of it, and the General concluded by proposing " The British Army." I en- deavoured to make a suitable reply premising I was unaccustomed to public speaking. I was listened to with profound attention : I spoke what I felt, that I had been highly gratified by the kind mention of my relative, and with all I had seen and experienced during my tour in the United States. I had seen much to admire — ^nothing to annoy — ^that my expectations of America were more than realized. What I had geen that day had delighted me, and revived old recollections — ^troops, cavalry and infantry marching past in order, — ^well clothed, armed, and ap- pointed — ^well commanded and presenting a fine specimen of an armed force only enrolled to preserve peace and order, and for self defence, subservient to the civil powers. It was gratifying also to see the esprit de corps of the officers in their new and splendid uniforms, and in the order and discipline of the troops. In the midst of applause, I concluded these few observations by proposing " Prosperity to the United States of America," which was drunk with enthusiasm ; and then the Mayor proposed our beloved " Queen Victoria," which was drunk with honors, as was also my final toast, " The President of the United States of America." September 28th. — ^Inspected a portion of the Hudson Biver Railway, immediately in front of cousin's villa- walked over about half a mile of it, which runs across the /•) DIARY OP A TOUR 105 eneral I en- I was to with ,d been ve, and r in the hing to )re than ted me, infantry and ap- pecimen jace and powers. )S of the d in the midst of poposing which >roposed nk with nt of the Hudson s villas- cross the cove on a raised bank : it is solidly constructed, like the best of our English railways — ^the iron rails resting on solid sleepers, and it is well ballasted. The public works of the Americans are stupendous, and worthy the son of John Bull : witness the Croton Aqueduct, which supplies New York with water ; it is entirely covered in, and conveys from the River Croton, a large volume of the best water 40 miles, for the use and supply of its inhabitants — ^it is conveyed over hill and dale, above and below the ground, and over every obstacle in an arch of solid masonry and large capacity, Sufficient for the wants of this large and increasing city. A similar Aqueduct, from a lake some 20 miles from Boston, conveys water for the use of that city. Then their public Hospitals, Asylums, and State Prisons are generally of great size and solidity, and convey the idea of utility and durability, and a nation possessing large resources. Divine providence is no doubt working out a great problem in the new world, which will be seen in generations to come. The census of the United States in 1850 is expected to number 25 millions, and to be quadrupled in 50 years to 100 millions ; now if this aggregate of mind would be trained to good and not to evil — ^to forget self, and to labour for the general good — in a word to be practical Christians, how soon would the world become, not an Utopian, but a real paradise. September 29th. — Galled on General Ward to take 106 DIART OF A TOUR , 1! I I .-'1 i leaxtf and understood from him he was engaged in the warfare of 1814:, at or near Plattsburg, I presented the General with a British Army list of 1814. This is the first day of opening the Hudson River Railway to the public, on which trains run three times up and down from New York to Peakshill. It is a very solid and well constructed railway, and I should judge will have a large traffic, especially in the winter, when the river traffic is stopped by the ice. September 30th. — ^Attended Church, and heard a sermon from Rom. ix. first 3 verses. " When the believer is united to Christ, nothing can separate him from his Saviour, neither height, nor length, nor breadth, nor depth, nor aught else. Paul's zeal in his Master's cause could desire to be cursed, or undergo a curse (as His Master did) for the salvation of his brethren the Jews." October Ist. — ^Proceeded in a hired conveyance to the quay to embark for New York; and to give an idea of the free and easy manners of brother Jonathan, I will relate the following adventure: — I had not proceeded far before a perfect stranger called to the driver to pull up, and opening the carriage door entered without a " with your leave," or " by your leave." I, of course, said nothing agamst it, and he waa soon in earnest conversation, giving me information on this, and that, and about the State- prison which we had to pass in our way to the quay, over which he informed me he had once had a charge. t DURT OF A TOUR 107 in the edthe Kiver nesup y solid je will len the ^ard a lever is )iii his h, nor } cause (as His ews." I to the a of the 1 relate p before ip, and thyour lothing giving 3 State- e quay, charge. Having ridden as far as he wished, he again called a halt, and made his exit franked. We should think this strange at home, but it is the result of a principle in universal force throughout the States, that every advantage is to be taken of opportunities gratis, provided it is not injurious to another ; here was a carriage going the same way with the stranger, and there being room for him within, he at once took advantage of it, was helped on^ and at no real inconvenience, or expense to me (the hirer of the vehicle) who was responsible for the fare. It would be well for mankind, if their universal honesty admitted this principle oi reciprocity to be acted on every where. Landed at New York, at 10 a.m., and drove to the New York Hotel, in Broadway, which is the most comfortable hotel in New York, especially for families, the accommodations being convenient and splendid. It is superintended by the proprietor, Mons. Monnot : the Salle k Manger is spacious and elegant, and fitted up in excellent taste ; the walls are pure white, with gilt mouldings, and every panel contains a large mirror. This room is a well proportioned parallello- gram of about 100 feet by 70 feet, and lofty in propor- tion — ^there are two tables parellel to each other, admits ting of plenty of space for the circulation of servants and other purposes — ^the good things from the Cuisine are introduced from a room, or passage, at the left hand upper angle of the Salle, and as the guests all enter at the opposite end, there is no clashing. There is a suite of 108 DIARY OP A TOUR lil i III ^ with-drawing-rooms in style to correspond, where such of the company as please can assemble before meals. There are private drawing-rooms also for families. The dinner hour is five, when the gong sounds, and the company, generally full dressed, enter and take their seats ; and being usually in little knots, or parties, the fashion is very agreeable, and like a private party, the society of the ladies giving here, as every where else in America, the tone and spirit of the whole party ; and the good breeding of the gentlemen is under such advantages quite decided. Long may the ladies possess influence, and that influence be for good. To those who prefer an early dinner at 3 p.m., or have to depart early on a journey, Mons. Monnot has his own table, at that hour in the Salle, at which any guest can join. I purpose dining at it to-morrow, having to depart by steamer for Boston, The dormitories are all comfortable, but offer various accommodation which regulates the cost per diem — ^the lowest being, for all charges, including meals, 2 dollars a-day; staying only 2 or 3 days I was charged 2|f dollars a-day. Mr. Allen was living at this hotel while I was there, and was very useful to me. I had a good deal of inte- resting conversation with Mr. Witney, on the subject of his projected railway to the Pacific, and also about his travels in the Prairie Wilderness, and the rocky moun- tains, and of his having been made prisoner with all DIARY OP A TOUR 09 4 J i 'iif his party, by the Sioux Indians who, after holding a council, agreed to spare their lives, on understanding the nature of their business in their country. Mons. and Mad. Poussin were also at the New York Hotel during my stay there. October 2nd. — ^Received a card from Dr. M., to attend the Columbia College Rehearsal, at a church in a distant quarter of the city, but the card found me too late, or Should certainly have attended. Called at the Panama railway office, and was very obligingly shewn the plan of the railway, by Mr. Serelle, the engineer, who also gave me a pamphlet of the prcrject to peruse at leisure. Having a desire to see a specimen of the Californian gold in its native state, and understanding a banker, near the Exchange, had some fine ingots just in the state they were found, I went to the Bank (I think in Wall-street,) and on enquiry of the cashier, he very politely produced three fine specimens of an oblong shape, apparently virgin gold — much the colour of a sovereign, the largest of which, he told me, was worth about £35 sterling. After dinner drove down to the quay, near the battery, and embarked in the superb steamer " Empire-State" for Fall River, and on by the cars to Boston. Nothing can exceed the magnitude and splendour of this floating palace. Her length is about 120 yards, by 25 yards extreme breadth, and she makes up 400 to 500 beds. There are three distinct range of decks, the hurricane deck 'I ii ...^ i h v.. U V f 110 DIARY OF A TOUR over all. She cut through the water at the rate of 17 knots an hour, starting about 5 p.m., and reaching Fall River about J-past 3 a.m. The passage through " Hill Gates" was a trifle to her. There were a gieat many passengers, and a supper was served, including tea, ooffee, and solids, which left nothing in the eating and drinking way to be desired. Ladies and gentlemen mixed like a private party, and most sociable ; nothing can exceed the respect shewn to the fair sex in the United States throughout, nor does it spoil them, while it softens the more ruggid manners of the male race, and ensures to the fair a far larger proportion of happiness in private life, than they could otherwise realize. Attention and deference to woman, if carried to a faulty extreme, is an error on the right side ; but I deem it rather praise- worthy than faulty : for whatever is excellent in creation centres in the heart ot a virtuous woman, and Wordsworth was right in saying, *• See how divine a thing is woman." The world fell by woman *tif5 true, but it will be regene- rated and restored no doubt chiefly by the instrumentality and virtue of woman. Left a packet of letters with Mr. 0., for cousin William written by his grandfather, about 1796, strongly demo- cratic, but just in sentiment and strong in affection ; stating that his relatives were dear — ^very dear to his heart, and engraven as it were on the palms of his hands. DIARY OF A TOUR 111 but the deep principles of freedom had torn him from their boeoms, to seek an asylum in a foreign land, which he had found in the United States. October 3rd. — ^Disembarked early, and proceeded to Boston by the railway, and drove to the Tremont House Hotel, near the Park. Called on Mr. T , and found him in his library. He received me very kindly, and enquired how he could be useful to me, and what I had seen at my previous visit. I informed him I had sur- veyed the city from the summit of the State House, and the Bunker's Hill Monument, and should carry away a correct mental picture of Boston, the Park, the Cam- bridge University, and the Auburn Cemetery, &c., all of which I had visited. Mr. T. then introduced me to the Librarian of the new Athenseum, at Boston, and I accompanied him to the new building, which has a noble and lofty entrance, supported by iron pillars, and communicating with an immense hall on the ground floor, for statuary, and with a beautiful news-room — ^you then ascend a spacious staircase, which conducts to the library on the first floor where about 60,000 vols, are admirably arranged. A second staircase conducts you to a finely lighted picture gallery, in the upper story, where are some valuable portraits and pictures, particularly one of General Wash- ington, said to be the best likeness ever taken of him— nothing is finished in this painting but the visage of the 112 I^BY OF A TOUR to more advantage. ^;„tine of the interior of » There is also -J^^^^^ .tdevotion. Convent of Capuchins, with *f « ^^ & Co.'s This aft--U .Id^reOdoUarsfora^ssage ett::i:^"Cd^^."--^^ Irving"— Oapt. Gorhain. Fremont's gold «8Bl.g. i" "l^^iTAion. . to «»' ««» „h»wcoi r»..t»"» ^*;°„„,, „j.„ through all oT^staxiles. wilderness the Then follow seenes of ^^^^^^^ g^one Biver, pagination can conca^ ^n ^ ^.^^^^^. .^. :C"-r:ifrtllo hun. together .ith ^iL^rXe^ESe^of^erochymo^ins, DIARY OF A TOUR 113 drapery portrait ^riOTofa on. a & Co/B a passage Washington Fremont's egon, over ico, and the irst division to depart on ri, and across Pass, in the cenery in the down with a ng the stream nlderness the r Stone Biver, tt Missouri, in- together with )cky mountains' and the distress of Col. Fremont, and party, among the snowy mountains, at the culminating point where the ice and snow appeared insurmountable, and individuals of the party are seen falling over the snowy precipices. View of the American Falls, on a branch of the Co- lumbia River, the Rapids of that river, with parties of emigrants embarking on the Columbia, to descend it to Fort Wallah Wallah, and to Fort Vancouver, and a view of the country occupied by settlers, and the Mormons, reported to be very rich land. View of the Pyramid Lake, Great Salt Lake, Sacramento Rio, and Town and Bay of S. Francisco, and the River at the Gold Diggings where the Gold Finders are seen in the mountain torrents up to their knees at work, and the waters rushing down from the lofty ranges above. After the panorama was over, I had some conversation with the Exhibitor, and understood from him that it be- longed to some persons at Philadelphia; and on my recommending its exhibition in London, he said it was their intention to exhibit it in London this spring, (1850.) October 5th. — Embarked in the good ship ^ Washing- ton Irving," for Liverpool, with a good many cabin passengers, including the Rev. Mr. Waterman, of Provi- dence, and a young gentleman (Mr. Parkman,) late a student at Cambridge, near Boston, who had the adjoin- ing cabin to the one I occupied. li 114 DIARY OF A TOUR October 6th. — Sailed this morning — towed out by a steam-tug to sea, and the same evening, and all night, experienced very rough and boisterous weather, and were in some danger of being embayed (the captain told me) between Cape Cod, and Cape Ann, but the wind favored us at the critical moment two points on both tacks, and we were thereby 40 miles more to wind-ward in the morning than the Captain expected. October 8th to 13th. — ^Wind variable — while running 9 or 10 knotjj we passed a New York Liner, and exchanged salutes. October 14th — ^The sabbath. — A cold windy day — ^had divine service in the cabin, by Rev. Mr. Waterman, who read prayers, and preached from 2 Cor. vi. 3, "If our gospel be hid, it is hid to them that are lost," — a good sermon. The gospel is only hid from those who will not seek it, and who neglect the Lord's counsel and advice, *'Ask and ye shall receive — Seek and ye shall find — Knock at the door of mercy, and it shall be opened — Whomsoever cometh to me, I will in no wise cast out." October 21st. — Boisterous weather, running 10 knots. At 6 a. m. on Saturday, the 27th October, we made Tuscar-light, bearing N.N.E. distant 10 miles; about noon we sighted the Welch Coast, and in the evening the mountains of Carnarvonshire, Snowden, &c. and the Light House at Holyhead. About 9 p. m. were boarded by a DIABY OF A TOUR. 115 Liverpool Pilot, and cheering it was to hear the ship hailed, and see her thrown aback to receive him on board — a fine young fellow, with a true English countenance, who immediately took charge of the ship ; and the wind con- tinuing fresh and fair, we were soon in the River Mersey, and in the morning early on Sunday, 28th October, found ourselves in dock at Liverpool, after a rapid run of little more than 21 days from. Boston to Liverpool, in the " Washington Irving" Captain Gorham, a beautiful fast sailing ship, and well commanded and served. A few general observations will now close this Diary. The principal change which reminded me of being on the Continent of America, was the heat, and its deleterious effects (like the canker in the rose) on the constitution and complexion of the fair, and the public generally. The language, physiognomy, and dress being decidedly English ; the climate, smoking, and hotel habits chiefly remind you of a foreign land. The Americans, as I found them, are universally kind and social. They are a diligent and active people — there are no idlers in the States, or in Canada — ^no beggars — all are on the alert, and if they will but remember the wise maxim " Union is strength^* with their excellent origin, an amalgam of all nations, chiefly Britinh , in arts, language, and religion, they will, they must become a great and mighty power. Could they satisfactorily settle the Slave question, it would add greatly to their strength and stability ; at present it is DIARY OF A TOUB like a concealed mine, ready to explode by any cliance spark. The quality of the land varies very little in appearance to what an Englishman would expect, it being of a light «andy nature throughout the entire route I travelled, with a few exceptions, such as Preston,, in Upper Canada, and Quebec, Montmorenci, &c. in Lower Canada. Religion, in America, is apparently prosperous, if we may judge from the number of churches, but I fear wants cohesion : — ^manifest union and oneness, which should ever be conspicuous in that faith which is derived from a divine source, and is the only solace and antidote for the evils of life — ^the only guide and way to salvation and eternal happiness in the life to come. When we consider that religion is the sacred question between God and man — good and evil — ^life and death (Deut. xxx.l5) it is self-evident such a question should stand on an immovable basis, and this the Giver of all good has pro- vided for in the sacred scriptures : for here we find tlie never^-changing data for our Christianity, and for first principles in religion (Isaiah, xl. G, 7, 8) as also for the " sure foundation" — the " tried stone" — the " rock of ages,'* which alone will sustain the edifice ere^ted on it for ever. While the religious \\^orld is perplexed and puzzled with theoretical questions about the modus operandi of the Holy Spirit's influences — the wciglitier matters of DIARY OF A ?ODR 117 cliance ^arance '. a light ed, witb wla, and IS, if we t I fear ly which J derived . antidote salvation ^en we ^een God , XXX. 15) id on an I has pro- e find the d for first so for the " rock of d Oil it for id puzzled perandi of matters of the law "judgment, mercy, ai 1 truth" are forgotten, and what relates to the actua^ "^ xiare of the human soul i& neglected; and present unanimity and Christian love compromised or lost. Christianity is essentially a prac- tical system, and would mankind hut obey and be guided by God's rule (the Bible) which commands us to repent and be baptized, how soon would the golden age return^ and the blessings be realized that are connected with obedience : that effect compared, by our Lord himself, to the wind which bloweth where it listeth, and no one can tell whence it cometh, and whither it goeth : so is every one bom of the spirit. If the Lord himself describes this vital change as a mystery, what man shall presume to put his own gloss or definition on it. Many of mankind disregard forms, even of divine origin, but if God has coupled the blessing with the com- mand who shall disjoin them, and still expect the blessing ! Would Abraham have beta in covenant with God had he not, as commanded, circumcised himself and household? Would the waters of Marah have become sweet had the tree not been cast into it? Would Naaman have been cured of his leprosy had he not, as commanded, dipped in Jordan ? so neither can we expect the blessings of Christianity without obedience to its commandments : though the axiom ever holds, that man is saved by grace, and justified by faith, w ithout the? deeds of the law. 118 DIARY OF A TOUR I had no opportunity of ascertaining the statistics of the religious world in America, but I believe the Episcopal Church is, numerically, the dominant Church (if the Presbyterian does not equal it) and consists generally of the wealthy nnd influential classes. Its incomparable liturgy, and formularies of public worship, and its pure creed, will always secure for it in every Christian Stato the most conspicuous preference and position. Let the preacher be what he may, he must go through the liturgy and lessons, and his chief scope to err is in the sermon. To the Emigrant of small means and a large family, I would say let him not be discouraged. If his family are healthy, sober, thrifty, and industrious, they will be a fortune to him, and they make him independent, being a little well ordered community within themselves. Labour is well paid in America, and labour is the poor man's capital, which under the above combined advantages, soon accumulates sufficiently to buy land, which diligent hands will rapidly improve; and honesty, integrity, and good conduct, with God's blessing, are sure to result in gain, and let us hope in Godliness. A great deference, perhaps too great, is shewn in the United States to public opinion, which is too unstable and infirm in character to be a safe principle of action, or to be equivalent to a principle of rectitude — ^we are "not to follow a multitude to do evil," which we are very liable •, >,<., 'ji DIARY OF A TOUR. 119 to do when public opinion is extensively influential. Every day brings its opportunities of doing good or evil. The Christian hopeth all things, endureth all things, putteth the best construction, and maketh the best of every thing, and every body. In any object of con- tention and collision of interests, he looks not only to his own rights, but the rights of his fellow man, and asks hmself what may reasonably be expected by the one or the other under similar and opposite circumstances? Human opinions, and esteem, are only valuable and re- spected as they are foimded on truth. The " Mens conscia rectC* will always sustain the upright and honest mind in the vicissitudes of this chequered life, and the strange versatilities of other minds I A conscience void of offence to God and man is the standard of the sincere Christian. A parting word to brother Jonathan on the indiscrimi- nate and unmeaning use of the word " guess." To speak with ambiguity, when you can speak with certainty, is prejudicial to truth, and the best interests of mankind, and is a habit brother Jonathan would correct did he see its bearings with the eye of experience. The vague and ill defined use of the word "guess" embodies in it a dangerous principle inasmuch as people may go on tcr guess at every thing, and be. ce.rj:fiin of nothing, . ,'The exprj^^ion " I guess" shouiai '.iieVfe)* he h^e^ ]&ut! 'irC 'it^ trUe !iii(l proper sense, or othprwi^e itse.ry(J!j too.wejl to aid.the fyaudjilent, the false, and Chb mdtcil)ilS,'bt.r?ii^^g llb'iiSbls .jMd sus- I ; r 120 DIARY OF A TOTJR. Yv *y..f win be cheated to the last, AndhethatwiUbec ^^^^ Delusions strong as heU shau om But if the wanderer his nustakedxscani, < iiuiu*" .«^ lonff for a return, Bepent his ways, and long Bewilder^a oft, must he lament lus 10 8 ^fnrever> No, the Cross! •For ever and for eyer . x^u, . ^ ..^n^ To Wot out sin and weteome make ^ V 3r' kery meets you. no deception there. Se^^n:lfBin.tUatT.Undedyoub^re. livLh there and captivate no more. FINIS. • * .'« < > i f «' ' ' ' ' , '■ ,-