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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. errata Ito e pelure, ;on d n 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 I \l .11 % QUEBEC: AS IT WAS, Al AS IT IS ! *., OR, A BRIEF HISTORY , • * or" • . THE OLDEST CITY IN CANADA. FROM IT!^ FOUNDATION TO THE PRESJENT TIME, V. ■ ' * . • .. •" WITH .; • , ft A GUIDE FOR STRANGERS, fl> TO THE ,. DIFFERENT PLACES OF INTEREST WITHIN ,% THE CITY, AND ADJACENT THERETO. FOURTH EDITIOHr. BY (bussell's hotel.) QUEBEC : PRINTED FOR THE PROPRIETOR, BY G. T. GARY, 11 & 13, FABRIQUE STREET. 1864. *-. .*• %. w(^ ^'• ^ \ w * A ^b £4- i QUEBEC: AS 1^ ir ASa Air® AS im is^ f mi fi The for it that i visitc fame wort] place carri tivat( ities, socia striki and, any with Tlie r or wi fields illnst iners, thec] bled ; are h lover in he] and a objec PREFACE- -il The com[)ilcr of this little work offers no apology for its publication. He believes, or rather, he knows that it is wanted, and that the residents as well as the visitors who are attracted to Quebec by its historic fame and its unequalled scenery, will find it well worth a perusal. Quebec is no ordinary or common- place city, for though like other large communities it carries on trade, commerce, and manufactures ; cul- tivates arts, science, and literature ; abounds in char- ities, and professes special regard to the amenities of social life, it claims particular attention as being a strikingly unique old place, the strong-hold of Canada, and, in fact, the key of the Province. Viewed from any one of its approaches, it impresses the stranger with the conviction of strength and permanency. The reader of American history on entering its gates, or wandering over its squares, ramparts and battle- fields, puts himself at once in communion with the illustrious dead. The achievements of daring mar- iners, the labours of self-sacrificing missionaries of the cross, and the conflicts of military heroes, who bled and died in the assault and defence of lis walls, are here re-read with ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her grandest and most rugged, as in her gentle and most smiling forms, will find in and around it an aflauence of sublime and beautiful objects. The man of science too may be equally a2 / ■5 ■VI PREFACE. gmtiiicd, I'or lioro tlio groat forcos of nature and her Hocrot jilcliyniy may be studied with advantage. (2ucl)uc can uover be a tame or insipid place, and ■with inod'M'ato opportunities for advancement, it must hocomo one of the greatest cities of the now worhl in respect of learning, arts, commerce and manufiichircs. That it is fast, though perhaps noise- lessly, progressing towaids industrial greatness, no one wlio looks at the continually increasing numl)er of tall ('himne3'S towering above the surrounding houses in tlio suburbs will doubt, and the time can- not be I'ar distant when it will move in this direction with greatly accelerated steps. The book, though not without interest to residents, is chieily designed for visitors, who through its pages, will be directed to the most remarkable objects in the city and its environs. It has been too much the custom with travellers seeking for instructive, pleasur- able and healthful recreation, to hurry through this old Cabinet of Curiosities in one or two days, when, in fact, they have hardly commenced to appreciate its coiitents, and, therefore, if by putting this little book in their hands they are induced hereafter to give it a more interested attention, the compiler will be abundantly rewarded for his labour of love. No special credit is claimed in the way of origi- nality or arrangement of material, the author having freely availed himself of the works of previous writers, but he trusts that the contents will be found to be pertinent and accurate. llusaBLL's Hotel, Quebec, May, 1862. Fom Ren Th( auje. CONTENTS. It f Chapter I. Former extent of British Dominion in America — (irowtU of Ca- nada and United States — Elfoct of tlio Con(iiiost ot 175'j — Discorery of the St. Lawrence by Cartici — Koundatioii of (Juebec — Progress of the Colony — Cliam plain surrcndcra Canada to the English — The Country, lookod upon as worth- loss, returned to F'rance — Seminary and Convent i-stablisliod at Quebec — Massacre at Sillory — First Bishop — Sir Hovcn- den Walker's tieet lost in the St. Lawrence — Population of Quebec — Visit of Professor Kalm — Appeaninces of Quebec and neighbourhood ia 1749 — Present condition of the Koiti- iications — Pormerand present appearances of the llarboar —Interior of a Convent — Reception of a now Governor in 1 749~Uog Carts— Shipbuilding— The Habitant;,— The Ladies of Quebec — And what is to follow. Chapter II. Remarkable periods in Canadian History — Increase of Population —View from Durham Terrace— Consul General Andrews on Quebec— General Wolfe and Admiral Saunders -British Fleet and Army opposite Quebec— Tlie Bombardment— Tho Assault at Montmorency— Cook the Navigator — Wolfe and tlie Poet Gray— The Landing— Ascent to the I'lains of Abra- ham — Battle of Quebec— Death of Wolfe and Monument — Death of Montcalm — Surrender of the Town — Sailing of tho Fleet — Exultation of the English "at home " and iu America. -I Chapter III. The Capitulation — The Cession to Great Britain— Tho Quebec Act—The American Revolution — Montgomery's Invasion — Geneial Arnold — Arnold's character — Tho Expediliou through the Wilderness — Tho Order of March — A fatiguing Journey— The Flag-staff Mountain — Sickness of the Troops — Encampment on Lake Megantic — Descent of the Chaudiero — Washington's Manifesto — Arrival at Point Levy— Cross- ing of the River — Arnold on Plains of Abraham — Arrival of Montgomery — Tho Siege— British Force in Quebec— Tho Assault — Skirmish at Pres-de- Ville — Fall of Montgomery- Arnold's Attack — Sortie of tho Garrison — Loss of tho Ame- ricaug— A CisintermeuWRemarks on the Invasion— -1812. vm CONTENT8. Cliaiiter IV. Tlio RfthellicMj— Attack upon Fort Maiden— Tho Totnptatlon— Incidents of tlio Escape — Tho Alarm — Tho AccldeDts — An Eucounter in Town — irousoH of Rofage — Wrath of tho Com- niandiint -Thcllcr's View of Quebec — Tho Conflagrationa of Muy and June, 1845 — The Qovernmont Hiding School Burnt. Chapter, V. A Drive— Tho Cemotory— Marine Hospital-" Chien D'Ot "— Churches — Churches of England — Presbyterian Churcbes— Wosleyan, Congref,'fttional, and IJaptist ChurcbcB-St. Patrick's Church — lloniau Catholic Cathedral— University of Laval —Water Works— The Music Hall— The Court House— Par- liament House — Hotels — Literary Institution^— The Chau- diurc — Lake St. Chailes — St. Anne. Chapter TI. rieasuros of tho Trip — The St. Lawrence and the watering places — Island of Orleans — Crane Island— Kamouraska—Cacouna- Entrance of the Waguenay — Price & Co — Lake It. John — Tho Crops— Mode of Travelling — Tho Perikoha — RuaaeH'a Report on the Sagueuay Coiiutry. M *A i '^k .■»,„. ition— ts— An Com- ODB of Burnt. Of "— :he8 — trick's Laval -Par- Cbau- places una — ~Tho ieport QUEBEC : AS IT WAS, AND AS IT IS, Clinptei* 1. Former extent of British Domltiion in Ain"riiii— (Jiuu lii dre'iumda and Unitod Status — Kt1"(!<'t of tlu; (;um|iic.s( of 1 TOU — Discovery of tlit^St. liiiwronco by (Jiirtior — FoiiiKiiition of «^iicbcc— Progress of tho Colony — Clianiplaiii surioudois Canada to llio English — The Country, looked upon as worthless, returned to France — Seminary and Convent estiililished jit (^uiiboc— Massacre at Sillory — First Ilishop — Sir Ifovi lukii Waikor'd licet lost in the St. Lawrence — Population of Quebec — Visit of Professor Kalm — Appearances of Quelioc aiul neighbour- hood in 1749 — Present condition of tlie Foitilb utions — For- mer and present appearauc(!s of the Jlarbour — Interior of a Convent — Reception of a now Governor in 1719 — Uog Carts —Shipbuilding — The Habitants — The Ladies of (jiiebee— , And what is to follow. A city more iiimous in tho annals of'lilstory, or inoro l)icturesqnely situated than Quebec, .scarcely any- where exists. liong the seat c»l' Fren(;h power in America it passed, in 1750, altogether into tho hands of the English, and with it all Canada, so that for a while, Great Britain lield dominion over that vast extent of territory, from the mouth to the head waters of the St. Lawrence, and from the source of tho Mississip])i to the Gulf of Mexico, — which already the Jesuit-Fathers had studded with Churches, and French Commanders had, if not wisely go\erned, at least judic'ously fortified, — and over all that land which the pious zeal of the Pilgrim Fathers luad set- tled and improved, Dutch adventurers had reclaimed from a wilderness, the London or South Virginia Com- mm mi ^f- If. A., 2 CANADA AND TIIF T'NITED STATF?. pany had colonized, or wliieli luid been t^imply granted to some pet lord of a rather privileged king, as a proprietary government — a totality of empire in Noi'li America from Hudson's Bay to the months of the Mississippi. A few years, however, after this event, the old English Colonies of America obtained an independent existence, and Canada, Newfoundland jS"ew Brunswick, and Nova Scotia remained to Great Britain, asylums for United Empire loyalists, and tlie cherished home of those whose ])eculiar instiuitions the British people had consented to protect and main- tain. Since then, Canada has rapidly advanced in wealth and population, and Quebec has grown witli the Province to great importance as a militaiy position, and as a seaport and place of business. The comparative growth of Canada and the United States, since the former has boon a Province of Cireat Britain and the latter a nation, mav l)e gathered from the fact that immodiately preceding that event, or in 1753, the English Colonies of New England, Connecticut, New York, the Jerseys, Pennsylvania Maryland, Virginia, Nortli and South Carolina, and Georgia contained witli the 5,000 English inhaljitants of Nova Scotia, 1,051,000, while the French Colonies of Canada and Louisiana contained oidy 52,000 people, 7,000 of whom where inhabitants of the latter. Im- mediately after the coufjuest of Canada, and especially after the independence of the old Englisli Colonies, the growth and advancement of the latter, compared with the progress in Canada was very great. The conquest deprived Lower Canada of an accession of I P^- 4 dimply kI king, apirc ill oiitlis of 'ter this Dbtained undlciiid to Great and tlie tiiiitions [d main- need in vn with military s. United f Great athered t event, n gland, ylvania la, and ihitants colonies ]")eople, r. Im- )ecially jlonie?, n pared It. The si on oi' ■i^ i:ffect of the conquest. 3 new people from Europe. It was a comitry inhabited by Frenchmen, under the protectorate of Great Britain, and besides tlie military, such Englishmen as resided at Quebec, Montreal, or Threo liivers, were only factors for the Liverpool or London merchants, and bore ni) closer relationship to the colonist than the English resident at Canton, does to the Chinese. The thirteen United States on the other hand had all become not personal proprietaries as Pennsylvania and Mary- laiul were, not the property of ])ersonal proprietors, with the government and jurisdiction in the Crown, as in the Carolinas and Jerseys formerly, not plantations the property and government of which rested with the Crown as in Virginia, Kuw York, and New Hamp- shire, not a proj,)erty in the j^eople and their repre- sentatives, the government being with the Crown as in Massachusetts Bay ; but the jjroperty and govern, ment in the freemen uf the colony as it was in llhode Island and Connecticut. They had secured to them- selves in L7S3, that wliich Canada only obtained in 1840, and «aw perfected, with some trilling exception, in 1853, a government wholly responsible to the people, and tjiereby a credit in the London Money ]\larket, alibrding the ability of nuiking roads and canals, improving rivers and harbours, and of bringing, by artificial means, places when unimproved, a far way off, in close proximit}' to each other. It is impossible either for an Englishman or an American not to feel an interest in Quebec, long the chief, and yet the most notable and curious city in Canada. .^ k* . 1 It 4 QUEBEC FOUNDED, Tlic site of the city was first visited by Jacques Cartier, the celebrated navigator of St Malo, in France, who in 1535 bein;ts with necessaries, to send a largo nuniher of clergymen, to lie sujjported by the Associates for lil'teeu years, and to have glebe or reserved lands asi.-igned to them for sufticient future support. This latter plan of settlement was, however, roughly iiiterl'ered with by the declaration by England of war against France in 1628, when Sir David Kirk pro- ceeded to the St. Lawrence, burned the Village of Tadousac, and obtained from Cham plain the surrender of the Fort of Quebec, carrying with him to England all the European inhabitants ot Canada. In 1631, Clianiplain was re-appointed Governor of Canada, the country being considered worthless by the people of England : and colonization was systematically undertalvcn by the Je.uits. After the death ot Clianiplain, vrhich occured in 1635, the Seminary was founded at Quebec, and the Ursuline Nunnery established through the instrumentality of the Duchess d'Aiguillon. Next year a very melancholy affair oc- curred at Sillery, which is situated about four miles al)ove Quebec, on the north bank of the St, Law- rence. Four hundred Huron families, men, women, and children, were massacred by the Iroquois, during service in the church. The French were at this period literally confined at Quebec, Three Rivei-s, and '<'U SEMINARY — EARTHQUAKE. I' Montreal ; but, nevertheless, made considerable pro- gviss. In 1659, the Bishop of Petrea arrived at v^iiebec, to preside over the Catholic Church, and was appointed to the See of Quebec by Pope Clement X, in 1664. Francois de Laval united the Seminary of Quebec with that of Du Bac, in Paris, in 1796, and did his best for the spread of education, and not a little for the extension of religion, by ob- taining four hundred additional soldiers from France for the Garrison of Quebec, to keep the natives in order. Soon after these events a rather fabulous earthquake occurred, which filled Quebec with terror, and which is carefully narrated by Charlevoix ; and two years after that occurrenco, a Monsieur Jolljet accompanied the Reverend Pere Marquette to the Mississippi, the months of which river La Salle after- wards discovered. In 1710, New England, being plagued by the Canadians, who allowed their Indians to perpetrate unheard ot atrocities, resolved to defend herself, and asked Queeiji Anne for assistance. It was intended to send an expedition from Boston to attack Quebec. Sir Hovenden Walker, accordingly, sailed for Boston, and there being manned and pro- visioned by the colonists, sailed for the St. Lawrence, where the fleet was nearly wholly destroyed. About midnight, on the 22nd of August, a part of the fleet was driven among islands and rocks on the north shore, eight or nine transports were cast away, and nearly 1,000 soldiers were drowned, the consequence being that the intended attack upon Quebec was abandoned. Quebec had now 7,000 inhabitants, and <'i a, «