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OLD MACKINAW 
 
 OR, 
 
 THE FORTRESS OF THE LAKES 
 
 AND 
 
 ITS SURROUNDINGS. 
 
 BY 
 
 W. p. STRICKLAND. 
 
 -••^ 
 
 ' ^ '^ S 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 James Challen & Son, 
 
 no. 25 south sixth street. 
 
 1860. 
 
Katerod rtccording to Act of Congress, In the year, 1860, hy 
 
 JAMES GHALLEN & SON, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the 
 Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 STEREOTYPED BY 8. A. (IKORaE, 
 
 607 BANSOM STBEET. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In the preparation of this voUime a large 
 number of works have been consulted, among 
 which the author desires to acknowledge his 
 indebtedness to the following: "The Travels 
 of Baron La Hontan," published in English 
 and French, 1705; " llelations des Jesuits," 
 in three vols., octavo ; " Marquette's Journal ; " 
 Schoolcraft's works, in three volumes ; " Shea's 
 Catholic Missions and Discovery .f the Missis- 
 sippi;" "American Annals;" "Lanman's His- 
 tory of Michigan;" "Parkman's Siege of Pon- 
 tiac;" "Annals of the West;" "Foster an4, 
 Whitney's Geological Report;" "Ferris' Great 
 West;" "Disturnell's Trip to the Lakes;" 
 " Lanman's Summer in the Wilderness ;" " Piet- 
 zell's Lights and Shades of Missionary Life ;" 
 
 (3) 
 
Preface. 
 
 "liifo of Rev. John Clark;" "Lectures before 
 the Historical Society of Michigan;" "Mans- 
 field's Mackinaw City ;" " Andrews' Report of 
 Lake Trade;" "Heriot's Canada ;"" Presbyte- 
 rian Missions," &c.,&c. He desires particularly 
 to mention the works of Schoolcraft, which have 
 thrown more light on Indian history than the 
 productions of any other author. He also 
 desires to acknowledge his indebtedness to 
 Wm. M. Johnson, Esq., of Mackinac Island, 
 for his valuable contributions to the history of 
 that interesting locality. The statistics in 
 relation to that portion of the country embraced 
 in the work are taken from the most recent 
 sources, and are believed to be perfectly re- 
 liable." 
 
 We are indebted to J. W. Bradley, of Phila- 
 delphia, the publisher of " The North American 
 Indians," for the beautiful frontispiece in this 
 work. Mr. Catlin, the author, visited every 
 noted tribe, and, by residing among them, was 
 initiated into many of their secret and hidden 
 mysteries. It is a valuable work. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. VAOB 
 
 Mackmuw uua lU HurrouiidlogH — Indian logondH — Hluwatua — UtiiiWHn und 
 OJlbwas— Pau-pau-kn-wiH— San-ge-man— Kau-be-man— An Indian cuHtoni 
 —Dedication to tbo nplritH — Au-RO-gnm-ugft— Exploits of San-gn-tnan — 
 Point St. IgnatiuH — Magic lance — Council of peace — ConqiiuHtH of Kan-ge- 
 man !) 
 
 CHAITER II. 
 
 Indian HpiiituallBta — Medicine men — Legendii — ^Tho ■pirit-world — Difference 
 between Indian and modern HplrltuallHts — Cbusco the splritnaliiit — Scbool- 
 craft's testimony of— Mode of communicating wltli spirits — Belief in Ha< 
 tanic agency — Interesting account of clairvoyance 10 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Marquette's visit to Iroquois Point— Chapel and Fort — Old Maclciuaw — ^The 
 French settlement in the Northwest — Erection of chapel and Fort — The 
 gateway of commerce — Tbo rendezvous of traders, trappers, soldiers, mia- 
 sionPTles, and Indians — Description of fort — Courriers des Bois — Expedi- 
 tion of Marquette and Joliet to explore the Mississippi — Green Bay — Fox 
 River — Wisconsin — Mississippi — Peoria Indians — Return trip — Kaskaskia 
 Indians— St. Xavier Missions — Mission to "the Illinois" — Marquette's 
 health declines — Starts out on return trip to Mackinaw — Dies and is bur- 
 ied at mouth of Marquette River — Indians remove his remains to Macki- 
 naw—Funeral cortege — Ceremonies — Burial in the chapel — Changes of 
 time- Schoolcraft on the place of Marquette's burial — Missilimackinac — 
 Name of Jesuit missions 39 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 La Salle's visit to Mackinaw— English traders— La Hontan's visit — Macki- 
 naw an English fort — Speech of a Chippewa chief— Indian stratagem — 
 Massacre of the English at the fort— Escape of Mr. Alexander Henry- 
 Early white settlement of Mackinaw— Present description— Relations of 
 the Jesuits— Remarkable Phenomena— Parhelia— Subterranean river 61 
 
 (5) 
 
Contents. 
 
 CHAPTKU V 
 
 PAitll 
 
 iHlaad ofthn f^lKiit falrlos— PAMnnNlon by thft RnRlliih— Rroettoa of unreta- 
 tiinnt houin'— French romaln nt Old Macklniiw— Finally abandonrd— Ex- 
 t0Dt of tlin Ulund—HlMtory—Di^Mcriptlnn— Natural eurtoiltlfli— Arnh Rook 
 — Siijfar Loaf Kock— Scull Kock— DonHtnaa'H farm— Dav««nport'a farm— 
 UoblnKon'K folly— The Dovll'n Punch Bowl — HoaUbful atniottphflre — 
 Tranitparoncy of tho watorH— Compared with Baratoga, ('ap« May, and 
 Mt. VVuNhinKton an ii point for health and recreation— DeNcriptlon of a 
 traveler In 18A4— Arrival of HteamcrMand Mailing veaiiolN at the port durlDi; 
 thd year — Mr. Johnton't reminlMcenceH — Indian name of Isliind — Myth- 
 ology — Three brotherH of the great genii- Vinit to the aubterranean abode 
 of the gpriil — VlMlon — Apoxtropho of an old Indian chief — Old bulldingM— 
 Door of Marquette'a chapel— John Jacob Antor and tho fur tnido— Preaent 
 ^'iipport uf the place — Fort Mackinaw — Fort Holmo« — Fin»< view — lutereat- 
 irig localitioH— War of I8I2— Death of Major Hohnoa- Soil ofthn IMand.... 
 
 y 
 
 83 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Lake Superior — Scenery — Transparency of its waterM — Climate — IhIo Royale 
 — ApoHtlofe' lalanda — La Point — Thunder Cape — Cariboo Point — A won- 
 derful lake — Romantic scenery — Pictured rooks — Rock Castle — The Orand 
 Portal— The chapel — FluctuatlouN in tho wutera of Lake Superior — Curi- 
 ous phenomena — Retrocession of the waters — Mirage — Iron raountalna 
 aod mines — Description of — Products — Shipments — Copper — Immense 
 boulders — Produce of the minen for 18A7 — Shipment of copper from the 
 Lake for 18A8 — Centre of the mining country — Iron mountains— Copper 
 mines of Great Britain — Coal — Mackinaw a great manufiicturing point- 
 Key to the Upper Lakes — Commerce of lakes- Growth of cities lOS 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Lake Huron- Eastern shore of Michigan — Face of the country — Picturesque 
 view— Rivers — Grand — Saginaw — Cheboy-o-gun — Natnral scenery — Fort 
 Gratiot- White Rock— Saginaw Bay— Thunder Bay— Bols Blanc Island 
 — Drummond's Island — British troops — St. Helena Island — Iroquois Wo- 
 man's Point— Point LaBarbe— Point aux Sable- Point St. Vital— Wreck 
 of the Queen City — St. Martin's Island — Fox Point — Moneto pa-maw — 
 Mille au Coquin— Great fishing places — Cress village— Catholic convent... 127 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Three epochs — ^The romantic — The military — The agricultural and commer- 
 cial — An inviting region— Jesuit and Protestant Missions— First Protest- 
 ant mission — First missionary — Islands of Mackinac and Green Bay — La 
 Pointe — Saut St. Mary — Presbyterians — Baptists — Methodists — Revival at 
 Fort Brady — Ke-wee-naw — Fon da Lac— Shawnees — Pottawatimies — 
 Eagle River— Ontonagon— Camp Rlrer— Iroquois Point— Saginaw Indians 
 -Melancholy reflections— Number of Indians in the States and Terri- 
 tories 143 
 
Contents. V 7 
 
 ('IIAITKU IX. PAOI 
 
 Indian nains of Michigan— UUiidi — Liiunian'pi Kiiniiiiflr In thn WlldornnM 
 — Plains — Troet— Rlvark— A trndlllouary land— nnmitirul d)<>tcilptlnn— 
 Ofllclal report In relation to the trade of thn lake* — Oreen lUy— Grand 
 TraverM Day — Boaver Ivlnudu — L'Arbrn Crorhe — HoundarlrM uf Luke 
 Michigan— It* cnunoctlonii — lliillroad from Fort Wuynn to Marklniiw— 
 Kocent report of— Amount completed- Laud KrautM lAft 
 
 CIIAITBlt X. 
 
 Mackinaw, tho ilto for a great central city— The Vouico of tho laknH— Early 
 Importance ai a central ponltlon- NIcolet— ComparmI K')OKraplilrally with 
 other polutit — Immnniie chain of coast — Future prospoctit — Temperature — 
 Testimony of the JeHult fathers- HealthfulnesM of the rllmate— Dr. Drak*^ 
 on Mackinaw— Resort for Invalids — Water curreuts of romniercn — Hurface 
 drained by them — 80II of tho northern and Nouthnrn poulnsulas of Michi- 
 gan — Physical resources — Present propriotors o( Ma'^kluaw — Plan of tho 
 city — Streets — Avenues — Park — Lots and blocks for churches and public 
 purposes — Institutions of learning and objects of benevolence — Fortlflca- 
 tlons- Docksandferrlos — Materials for building — Harbors — Natural buauty 
 of the site for a olty — Mountain ranges — Interior lakes — Fish- Qamo 17.1 
 
 CIIAIIEU XI. 
 
 The entrepot of a vast commerce — Surface drained— Superiority of Macki- 
 naw over Chicago as a commercial point- Exports and imports — Michigan 
 the greatest lumber-growing region in the world — Interminable forests 
 of the choicest pine— Facilities for market— Annual product of the pineries 
 —Lumbering, mining, and fishing Interests — Independent of financial 
 crises— Mackinaw the centre of a great railroad system— Lines terminating 
 at this point— North and South National Line — Canada granta— Orowth 
 of Northwestern cities— Future growth and prosperity of Mackinaw- Chi- 
 cago— Legislative provision for opening roada in Michigan— The Forty 
 Acre Homestead Bill— Its provisions 205 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 The Great Western Valley— Its growth and population— Comparison of At- 
 lantic with interior cities— Relative growth of river and lake cities— Cen- 
 tre of population — Lake tonnage— Progress of the principal centres of 
 population 228 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Hichigan Agricultural Reports for 1854- Prof. Thomas' report— Report of 
 J. S. Dixon— Products of States— Climate— Army Meteorological Reports. 2.'»5 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Agricultural interest— Means of transportation— Railways and vessels- 
 Lumber— Vessels cleared— Lake cities and Atlantic ports— Home-market 
 
8 
 
 Contents. 
 
 PAOB 
 
 — BreadstuffH — Michigan flour— Monetary panics— Wheat— Importations 
 — Provisions— Fruit— Live stoolt-Wool— Shipping basiness— Railroads — 
 Lake Superior trade— Pine lumber trade— Copper interest— Iron Interest 
 -Fisheries — Coal mines— Salt— Plaster beds 372 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Desirableness of a trip to the Lakes — Routes of i.-<ivel — Interesting localities 
 — Scenery — Southern coast — Portage Lake^l^r. Houghton — Ontonagon — 
 Apostles* Islands — Return trip — Points of interest — St. Mary's River — 
 Lake St. George — Point de Tour — Lake Michigan — Points of interest — 
 Chicago 395 
 
PAOB 
 ns 
 
 ... 272 
 
 98 
 
 .. 39« 
 
 
i 
 
--H 
 
 :>ii .1 Ji* 
 
 FOIf 
 
 OLD MACKINAW 
 
 OF 
 
 Tin: FORTm:ss of tto: lakes a\d its sii^roindixos 
 
 Hefur^tn/^ /i ft /'// OftCitifitrn 
 
C" 
 
 ^ 
 
 f 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 Mackinaw and its surroundings— Indian legends — Hiawatha 
 — Ottawas and Ojibwas — Paw-pau-ke-wis — Sau-ge-man — 
 Kau-be-man — An Indian custom — Dedication to the spirits— 
 Au-se-gum-ugs— Exploits of San-ge-man — Point St. Igna- 
 tins — Magic lance — Council of Peace — Conquests of San-ge- 
 man. 
 
 .'/ 
 
 Mackinaw, with its surroundings, has an interest- 
 ing and romantic history, going back to the earliest 
 times. The whole region of the Northwest, with 
 its vast wildernesses and mighty lakes, has been 
 traditionally invested with a mystery. The very 
 name of Mackinaw, in the Indian tongue, signifies 
 the dwelling-place of the Great Genii, and many are 
 the legends written and unwritten connected with its 
 history. If the testimony of an old Indian chief at 
 Thunder Bay can be credited, it was at old Mack- 
 inaw that Mud-je-ke-wis, the father of Hiawatha, 
 lived and died. 
 
 Traditional history informs us that away back in 
 
 (9) 
 
lO 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 a remote period of time, the Ottawas and the Qjib- 
 was took up their journey from the Great Salt 
 Lake towards the setting sun. These tribes were 
 never stationary, but were constantly roving about. 
 They were compared by the neighboring tribes to 
 Paw-pau-ke-wis, a name given by the Indians to the 
 light-drifting snow, which blows over the frozen 
 ground in the month of March, now whirling and 
 eddying into gigantic and anon into diminutive 
 drifts. Paw-pau-ke-wis signifies running away. The 
 name was given to a noted Indian chief, fully equal 
 in bravery and daring to Hiawatha, Plu-re-busta, or 
 Man-a-bosho. 
 
 The Ottawas and Ojibwas dwelt for a time on the 
 Manitoulin Island in Lake Huron. While the 
 tribes dwelt here, two distinguished Indian youths, 
 by the name of San-ge-man and Kau-be-man, re- 
 markable for their sprightliness, attracted the atten- 
 tion of their particular tribes. Both were the young- 
 est children of their respective families. It was the 
 custom of the Indians to send their boys, when 
 young, to some retired place a short distance from 
 their village, where they were to fast until the mani- 
 toes or spirits of the invisible world should appear 
 to them. Temporary lodges were constructed for 
 their accommodation. Those who could not endure 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 11 
 
 the fast enjoined upon them by the Metais or Medi- 
 cine-men, never rose to any eminence, but were to 
 remain in obscurity. Comparatively few were able 
 to bear the ordeal ; but to all who waited the ap- 
 pointed time, and endured the fast, the spiritual 
 guardian appeared and took the direction and con- 
 trol of their subsequent lives. San-ge-man in his 
 first trial fasted seven days, and on the next he 
 tasted food, having been reduced to extreme debility 
 by his long abstinence, during which his mind be- 
 came exceedingly elevated. In this exaltation his 
 spiritual guide appeared to him. He was the spirit 
 of the serpent who rules in the centre of the earth, 
 and under the dark and mighty waters. This spirit 
 revealed to him his future destiny, and promised 
 him his guardianship through life. San-ge-man 
 grew up and became remarkably strong and power- 
 ful. From his brave and reckless daring he was 
 both an object of love and fear to the Ottawas. 
 
 About this time, as the legend runs, the former 
 inhabitants of the Manitoulin Island and the ad- 
 joining country, who have the name of the Au-se- 
 gum-a-ugS; commenced making inroads upon the 
 settlements of the combined bands, and killed 
 several of their number. Upon this the Ojibwas 
 and Ottawas mustered a war party. San-ge-man, 
 
13 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 though young, offered himself as a warrior; and, 
 fall of heroic daring, went out with the expedition 
 which left the Island in great numbers in their 
 canoes, and crossed over to the main land on the 
 northeast. After traveling a few days they fell 
 upon the war path of their enemies, and soon sur- 
 prised them. Terrified, they fled before the com- 
 bined forces ; and in the chase, the brave and daring 
 youth outstripped all the rest and succeeded in 
 taking a prisoner in sight of the enemies' village. 
 On their return the Ojibwas and Ottawas were 
 pursued, and being apprised of it by San-ge-man, 
 they made good their escape, while the young brave, 
 being instructed by his guardian spirit, allowed 
 himself to be taken prisoner. His hands were tied, 
 and he was made to walk in the midst of the war- 
 riors. At night they encamped, and after partaking 
 of their evening meal, commenced their Indian 
 ceremonies of drumming and shaking the rattle, ac- 
 companied with war songs. San-ge-man was asked 
 by the chief of the party, if he could che-qwon- 
 dum, at the same time giving him the rattle. He 
 took it and commenced singing in a low, plaintive 
 tone, which made the warriors exclaim, "He is 
 weak-hearted, a coward, an old woman. Feigning 
 great weakness and cowardice, he stepped up to the 
 
 NJ 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 •3 
 
 Indian to whom he had surrendered his war club ; 
 and taking it, he commenced sliaking the rattle, 
 and as he danced round the watch-fire, increasing 
 his speed, and, gradually raising the tone of his 
 voice, he ended the dance by felling a warrior with 
 his club, exclaiming, " a coward, ugh I" Then with 
 terrific yells and the power of a giant, he continued 
 his work of death at every blow. Affrighted, the 
 whole party fled from the watch-fire and left him 
 alone with the slain, all of which he scalped, and 
 returned laden with these terrible trophies of vic- 
 tory to join his companions who returned to the 
 Island. 
 
 San-ge-man having by his valor obtained a chief- 
 tainship over the Ottawas, started out on the war 
 path and conquered all the country east and north 
 of Lake Huron. The drum and rattle were now 
 heard resounding through all the villages of the 
 combined forces, and they extended their conquests 
 to Saut St. Mary. For the purpose of bettering 
 their condition they removed from the Island to the 
 Detour, or the mouth of the St. Mary's river, where 
 they occupied a deserted village, and there separated, 
 part going up to the Saut, which had also been de- 
 serted, and the other portion tarrying in the above 
 village for a year. 
 2 
 
 II 
 
H 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 !>' 
 
 At the expiration of this time San-ge-riinn led a 
 war party towards the west, and reached the present 
 point St. Ignatius, on the north side of the straits 
 where he found a large village. There was also an- 
 other village a little east of Point St. Ignatius, at 
 a place now called Moran's Bay, and still another 
 at Point Au Chcnes on the north shore of Lake 
 Michigan, northeast of the Island of Mackinaw. 
 At these places, old mounds, ditches, and gardens 
 were found, which had existed from an unknown 
 period. From this point a trail led to the Saut 
 through an open country, and these ancient works 
 can be distinctly traced to this day thougli covered 
 with a heavy growth of timber. 
 
 After a hard fight with the inhabitants of these 
 villages, San-ge-man at length succeeded in conquer- 
 ing them, and after expelling them burned all their 
 lodges with the exception of a few at Point St. Ig- 
 natius. The inhabitants of this village fled across 
 the straits southward from Point St. Ignatius and 
 located at the point now known as Old Mackinaw, 
 or Mackinaw City. 
 
 In the mean time, San-ge-man had returned to the 
 Detour and removed his entire band to Point St. Ig- 
 natius. In the following spring while the Ottawas 
 were out in their fields planting corn, a party of 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 «5 
 
 Au-sc-guni-ugs crossed over from Old Mu<;kiimw, oii 
 the south side ot'tlu; straits, and killed two of the Ot- 
 tawa women. San-gc-nian at onee selected a party of 
 tried warriors, and going down the straits pursued the 
 Au-se-gum-ugs to the River Chehoy-e-gun, whither 
 they had gone on a war expedition against the Mush- 
 eo-dan-she-ugs. On a sandy bay a little west of the 
 mouth of the river, tliey found their enemies' ca- 
 noes drawn up, tliey having gone into the interior. 
 Believing that they would soon return, San-ge-mau 
 ordered his party to lie in ambush until their return. 
 They were not long in waiting, for on the following 
 day they made their appearance, being heated and 
 weary with their marches, they all stripped and 
 went into the Lake to bathe previous to embarking 
 for Mackinaw. Unsuspicious of danger they played 
 with the sportive waves as they dashed upon the 
 shore, and were swimming and diving in all direc- 
 tions, when the terrific yell of armed warriors broke 
 upon their ears. It was but the work of a moment 
 and one hundred defenseless Indians perished in the 
 waters. When the sad intelligence came to the re- 
 mainder of the tribe at Mackinaw, they fled towards 
 the Grrand River country. 
 
 The village now deserted possessing superior at- 
 tractions to San-ge-man and his warriors, the Otta- 
 
 :^V 
 
i6 
 
 OKI Mackinaw. 
 
 Hi 
 
 I', 
 
 was crossed tluj stniits and took possession, nnd 
 hero he remained until after he nnfhirly succeeded 
 in obtaining the magic lanee. 
 
 It was while here that a large delegation of In- 
 dians of the Mush-co-dan-she-ugs from the Middle 
 village, Uvdv Kiver, and (irand Traverser eame to 
 shake hands and smoke the pi[)e of peace with him. 
 They had heard of his fame as a mighty warrior. 
 The (x;easion was one of great rejoicing to the inha- 
 bitants of Mackinaw, and all turned out to witness 
 the gathering. San-ge-man and his warriors ap- 
 peared in council, dressed in richest furs, their heads 
 decorated with eagle feathers, and tufts of hair of 
 many colors. Among all the chiefs there assembled, 
 for proud and noble bearing none excelled the Otta- 
 wa. A fur robe covered with scalp-locks hung 
 carelessly over his left shoulder leaving his right 
 arm free while speaking. As the result of these 
 deliberations the bands became united and thus 
 the territory of the Ottawa chief was enlarged. 
 
 It was from this point that he sallied forth every 
 summer in war excursions toward the south, con- 
 quering the country along the eastern shore of Lake 
 Michigan, extending his conquests to Grand River, 
 and overrunning the country about the present site 
 of Chicago. It was here that he received reinforce- 
 
Okl Mackituw. 
 
 ini'i»t> Iroiii Ins old iillies llu' Ojibwas, and ox- 
 ((Mulod his (M)iiiiucsts lown t\\v IllinoiH Uivor until 
 he rcjujht'd the " fatlicr ol" wuicrs," 
 
 From this plm he went turth tu tho slau^httT nf 
 tin; rnxjiUMs at the Drloiir, and expelled them 
 from the Island dI' Ma(!kinavv and Point St. Ignatius. 
 From hence be went armed to wage an unnatural 
 war against his relatives the Ojihwas, and was slain 
 by the noble chief Kau-be-man, and it was to this 
 place that the sad news came baek of his fate. Thus 
 much for th(3 Indian history of Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Equally romantic is the history of tho early mis- 
 sionaries and voyagers to this great centre of tho 
 Indian tribes. On the far-oiV shores of the north- 
 western lakes the Jesuit Missionaries planted tho 
 cross, erected their chapels, repeated their pater nosltrs 
 jiiid ave marias, and sung their Te Deumn, before tho 
 cavaliers landed at Jamestown or the Puritans at 
 Plymouth. Among the Ottawas of Saut St. Marie 
 and the Ojibwas and Hurons of Old Mackinaw, 
 these devoted self-sacrificing followers of Ignatius 
 Loyola commenced their ministrations upwards of 
 two hundred years ago. They were not only the 
 first missionaries among the savages of this north- 
 western wilderness, but they were the first discov- 
 erers and explorers of the mighty lakes and rivers 
 2* 
 
i8 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 of that region. In advance of civilization they 
 penetrated the dense unbroken wilderness, and 
 launched their canoes upon unknown rivers, break- 
 ing the silence of their shores with th«r vesper 
 hymns and matin prayers. The first to visit the 
 ancient seats of heathenism in the old world, they 
 were the first to preach the Gospel among tb^ hea- 
 then of the new. 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
CHAPTEE II. 
 
 Indian Spiritualists — Medicine men — Legends — The Spirit- 
 world — Diflference between Indian and Modern Spiritualists 
 — Chusco the Spiritualist — Schoolcraft's testimony of — Mode 
 of communicating with spirits — Belief in Satanic agency — 
 Interesting account of Clairvoyance. 
 
 The earliest traditions of the various Indian 
 tribes inhabiting this country prove ihat they have 
 practiced jugglery and all other things pertaining to 
 the secret arts of the old uncivilized nations of the 
 world. Among all the tribes have been found the 
 priests of the occult sciences, and to this day we 
 find Metais, Waubonos, Chees-a-kees and others 
 bearing the common designation of Medicine men. 
 In modern parlance we would call them Professors 
 of Natural Magic, or of Magnetism, or Spiritualism. 
 The diflference however between these Indian pro- 
 fessors of magic and those of modern date is, that 
 while the latter travel round the country exhibiting 
 their wonderful performances to gaping crowds, at a 
 
 (19) 
 
20 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 shilling ii head, the former generally shrink fronn 
 notoriety, and, instead of being anxious to display 
 their marvelous feats, have only been constrained, 
 after urgent entreaty and in particular cases, to exhi- 
 bit their powers. The Indian magicians have shown 
 more conclusively their power as clairvoyants and 
 spiritualists, than all the rapping, table-tipping me- 
 diums of the present day. 
 
 Numerous interesting and beautiful Indian le- 
 gends show their belief in a spiritual world — of a 
 shadowy land beyond the great river. Whether 
 this was obtained by revelations from their spiritual 
 mediums, or derived from a higher source of inspi- 
 ration, we know not ; but most certain it is, that in 
 no belief is the Indian more firmly grounded than 
 that of a spirit- world. 
 
 The Indian Chees-a-kees or spiritualists had a 
 different and far more satisfactory mode of commu- 
 nicating with departed spirits than ever r!>odern 
 spiritualists have attained to, or perhaps ever will. 
 Forming, as they did, a connecting link or channel 
 of communication between this world and the world 
 of spirits, they did not affect to speak what the 
 spirit had communicated ; or, perhaps, to state it 
 more fully, their organs of speech were not em- 
 ployed by the spirits to communicate revelations 
 

 '^ 
 
 1 
 
 from 
 
 ?x 
 
 isplay 
 ained, 
 
 9 
 
 exhi- 
 
 
 shown 
 
 
 ts and 
 
 ''^H 
 
 g me- 
 
 'fl 
 
 an le- 
 
 
 — of a 
 
 
 bethel" 
 
 
 ►iritual 
 
 
 inspi- 
 ;hat in 
 
 •^1 
 
 i than 
 
 ''9 
 
 had a 
 
 ■-^H 
 
 Dmmu- 
 
 sj 
 
 »odern 
 
 I'l^^H 
 
 jr will. 
 
 
 hannel 
 
 
 world 
 
 '9 
 
 at the 
 
 
 tate it 
 
 ',^^1 
 
 at em- 
 
 
 lations 
 
 wM 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 21 
 
 from the spirit world ; but the spirits themselves 
 spoke, and the responses to inquiries were perfectly 
 audible to them and to all present. In this case all 
 possibility of collusion was out of the question, and 
 the inquirer could tell by the tones of the voice as 
 as well as the manner of the communication, whether 
 the response was genuine or not. 
 
 Chusco, a noted old Indian who died on Round 
 Island several years ago, was a spiritualist. He was 
 converted through the labors of Protestant Mis- 
 sionaries, led for many years an exemplary Christian 
 life, and was a communicant in the Presbyterian 
 Church on the Island up to the time of his death. 
 Mr. Schoolcraft in his " Personal Memoirs," in which 
 he gives most interesting reminiscences, running 
 through a period of thirty years among numerous 
 Indian tribes of the northwest, and who has kindly 
 consented to allow us to make what extracts we 
 may desire from his many interesting works, says 
 that " Chusco was the Ottawa spiritualist, and up 
 to his death he believed that he had, while in his 
 heathen state, communication with spirits. When- 
 ever it was deemed proper to obtain this communi- 
 cation, a pyramidal lodge was constructed of poles, 
 eight in number, four inches in diameter, and from 
 twelve to sixteen feet in height. These poles were 
 
22 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 set firmly in the ground to the depth of two feet, 
 the earth being beaten around them. The poles 
 being securely imbedded, were then wound tightly 
 with three rows of withes. The lodge was then 
 covered with ap-puck-wois, securely lashed on. The 
 structure was so stoutly and compactly built, that 
 four strong Indians could scarcely move it by their 
 mightiest efforts. The lodge being ready, the spir- 
 itualist was taken and covered all over, with the 
 exception of his head, with a canoe sail which was 
 lashed with bois-blanc cords and knotted. This 
 being done, his feet and hands were secured in a 
 like firm manner, causing him to resemble a bundle 
 more than anything else. He would then request 
 the bysta 'ders to place him in the lodge. In a few 
 minutes after entering, the lodge would commence 
 swaying to and fro, with a tremulous motion, accom- 
 panied with the sound of a drum and rattle. The 
 spiritualist then commenced chanting in a low, mel- 
 ancholy tone, gradually raising his voice, while the 
 lodge, as if keeping time with his chant, vibrated, 
 to and fro with greater violence, and seemed at 
 times as if the force would tear it to pieces. 
 
 In the midst of this shaking and singing, the sail 
 and the cords, with which the spiritualist was 
 bound, would be seen to fly out of the top of the 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 23 
 
 lodge with great violence. A silence would then 
 ensue for a short time, the lodge still continuing its 
 tremulous vibrations. Soon a rustling sound would 
 be heard at the top of the lodge indicating the 
 presence of the spirit. The person or persons at 
 whose instance the medium of the spiritualist was 
 invoked, would then propose the question oi* ques- 
 tions they had to ask of the departed. 
 
 An Indian spiritualist, residing at Little Traverse 
 Bay, was once requested to enter a lodge for the 
 purpose of affording a neighboring Indian an op- 
 portunity to converse with a departed spirit about 
 his child who was then very sick. The sound of a 
 voice, unfamiliar to the persons assembled, was 
 heard at the top of the lodge, accompanied by sing- 
 ing. The Indian, who recognized the voice, asked 
 if his child would die. The reply was, " It will die 
 the day after to-morrow. You are treated just as 
 you treated a person a few years ago. Do you wish 
 the matter revealed." The inquirer immediately drop- 
 ped his head and asked no further questions. His 
 child died at the time the spirit stated, and reports, 
 years after, hinted that it had been poisoned, as tlie 
 father of the deceased child had poisoned a young 
 squaw, and that it was this same person who made 
 the responses. ' 
 
 t 
 
H 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Old Chusco, after he became a Christian, could 
 not, according to the testimony of Schoolcraft, be 
 made to waver in his belief, that he was visited by 
 spirits in the exhibitions connected with the tight- 
 wound pyramidal, oracular lodge; but he believed 
 they were evil spirits. No cross-questioning could 
 bring out any other testimony. He avowed that, aside 
 from his incantations, he had no part in the shaking 
 of the lodge, never touching the poles at any time, 
 and that the drumming, rattling, singing, and re- 
 sponses were all produced by these spirits. 
 
 The following account of Chusco, or Wau-chus-co, 
 from the pen of William M. Johnson, Esq., of Macki- 
 naw Island, will be found to be deeply interesting : 
 
 "Wau-chus-co was a noted Indian spiritualist 
 and Clairvoyant, and was born near the head of 
 Lake Michigan —the year not known. He was eight 
 or ten years old, he informed me, when the English 
 garrison was massacred at Old Fort Missilimacki- 
 nac. He died on Bound Island, opposite the vil- 
 lage and island of Mackinaw, at an advanced age. 
 
 " As he grew up from childhood, he found that 
 he was an orphan, and lived with his uncle, but 
 under the care of his grandmother. Upon attain- 
 ing the age of fifteen his grandmother and uncle 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 25 
 
 urged him to comply with the ancient custom of 
 their people, which was to fast, and wait for the ma- 
 nifestations of the Gitchey-monedo, — whether he 
 would grant him a guardian spirit or not, to guide 
 and direct him through life. He was told that 
 many young men of his tribe tried to fast, but that 
 hunger overpowered their wishes to obtain a 
 spiritual guardian ; he was urged to do his best, and 
 not to yield as others had done. 
 
 " Wau-chus-co died in 1839 or '40. He had, for 
 more than ten years previous to his death, led an 
 exemplary Christian life, and was a communicant of 
 the Presbyterian Church on this Island, up to the 
 time of his death. A few days previous to his 
 death, I paid him a visit. ' Come in, come in, no- 
 sin !" (grandson) said he. After being seated, and we 
 liad lit our pipes; I said to him, ' Ne-me-sho-miss, 
 (my grandfather,) you are now very old and feeble ; 
 you cannot expect to live many days ; now, tell me 
 the truth, who was it that moved your chees-a-kee 
 lodge when you practiced your spiritual art?' A 
 pause ensued before he answered : — ' Nosis, as you 
 are in part of my nation, I will tell you the truth : 
 I know that I will die soon. I fasted ten days when 
 I was a young man, in compliance with the custom 
 of my tribe. While my body was feeble from long 
 
 a 
 
26 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 fasting, my soul increased in its powers; it appeared 
 to embrace a vast extent of space, and the country 
 within this space, was brought plainly before my 
 vision, with its misty forms and beings — I speak of 
 my spiritual vision. It was, while I was thus lying 
 in a trance, my soul wandering in space, that ani- 
 mals, some of frightful size and form, serpents of 
 monstrous size, and birds of different varieties and 
 plumage, appeared to me and addressed me in hu- 
 man language, proposing to act as my guardian 
 spirits. While my mind embraced these various 
 moving forms, a superior intelligence in the form of 
 man, surrounded by a wild, brilliant light, influ- 
 enced my soul to select one of the bird-spirits, re- 
 sembling the kite in look and form, to be the 
 emblem of my guardian spirit, upon whose aid I 
 was to call in time of need, and that he would 
 be always prepared to render me assistance when- 
 ever my body and soul should be prepared to receive 
 manifestations. My grandmother roused me to earth 
 again, by inquiring if I needed food : I ate, and 
 with feeble steps, soon returned to our lodge. 
 
 " ' The first time that I ever chees-a-keed, was on 
 a war expedition toward Chicago, or where it is now 
 located — upon an urgent occasion. We were afraid 
 that our foes would attack us unawares, and as we 
 
OKI Mackinaw. 
 
 27 
 
 wore also sliort of provisions, our cliiet' urged me 
 iiujessantly, until J consented. After prep' ' -ng my 
 soul and body, by lasting on bitter herbs, &c., I en- 
 tered the Chees-a-kec lodge, which had been pre- 
 pared for me : — the presence of my guardian spirit 
 was soon indicated by a violent swaying of the lodge 
 to and fro. '* Tell us ! tell us i where our enemies 
 are ?" cried out the chief and warriors. Soon, the 
 vision of my soul embraced a large extent of coun- 
 try, which 1 had never before seen — every object 
 was plainly before me — our enemies were in their 
 villages, unsuspicious of danger; their movements 
 and acts I could plainly see ; and mentally or spirit- 
 ually, I could hear their conversation. Game 
 abounded in another direction. Next day we pro- 
 cured provisions, and a few days afterward a dozen 
 Scalps graced our triumphant return to the village 
 of the Cross. I exerted my powers again frequently 
 among my tribe, and, to satisfy them, I permitted 
 them to tie ray feet and hands, and lash me round 
 with ropes, as they thought proper. They would 
 then place me in the Chees-a-kee lodge, which would 
 immediately commence shaking and swaying to and 
 for, indicating the presence of my guardian spirit; 
 frequently I saw a bright, luminous light at the top 
 of the lodge, and the words of the spirit would be 
 
28 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1 liiliii. 
 
 audiblo to the spectators outside, who could not un- 
 derstand what was said; while mentally, I under- 
 stood the words and language spoken. 
 
 " * In the year 1815, the American garrison at 
 this post expected a vessel from Detroit, with sup- 
 plies lor the winter — a month had elapsed beyond 
 the time for her arrival, and aj)])rehensions of star- 
 vation were entertained; iinally, it call was made to 
 ine by the commanding officer, through the traders. • 
 After due preparation I consented ; the Checs-a-kee 
 lodge was surrounded by Indians and whites ; T had 
 no sooner commenced shaking my rattle and chant- 
 ing, than the spirits arrived ; the rustling noise they 
 made through the air, was heard, and the sound of 
 their voices was audible to all. 
 
 " * The spirits directed my mind toward the south- 
 ern end of Lake Huron — it lay before me with its 
 bays and islands; the atmosphere looked hazy, re- 
 sembling our Indian Summer ; my vision terminated 
 a little below the mouth of the St. Clair River — 
 there lay the vessel, disabled ! the sailors were busy 
 in repairing spars and sails. My soul knew that 
 they would be ready in two days, and that im seven 
 days she would reach this Island, (Mackinaw,) by the 
 south channel, [at that time an unusual route,] and 
 I so revealed it to the inquirers. On the day I men- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 lot un- 
 under- 
 
 ison at 
 tU sup- 
 beyond 
 of star- 
 Tiade to 
 traders. 
 Ds-a-kco 
 ; Thad 
 I ciiant- 
 ise tliey 
 mnd of 
 
 tioncd tln! .sclioontu* liovo in sight, by the south chaii 
 nel. The captain of the vessel corroborated all I 
 li:i(l stated. 
 
 " ' I am now a praying Indian (Christian). T ex- 
 pect soon to die, Nosia. This is the truth : T pos- 
 sessed a power, or a power possessed me, which I 
 cannot explain or fully describe to you. I never 
 attempted to move the lodge by my own physical 
 powers — I held communion with supernatual beings 
 or souls, who acted upon my soul or mind, reveal- 
 ing to me the knov^rledge which I have related to 
 you.' 
 
 " The foregoing merely gives a few acts of the 
 power exhibited by this remarkable, half-civilized 
 Indian. I could enumerate many instances in which 
 this power has been exhibited among our Indians. 
 These Chees-a-kees had the power of influencing 
 the mind of an Indian at a distance for good or 
 evil, even to the deprivation of life among them : 
 so also in cases of rivalship, as hunters or warriors. 
 This influence has even extended to things mate- 
 rial, while in the hands of those influenced. The 
 soul or mind — perhaps nervous system of the indi- 
 vidual, being powerfully acted upon by a spiritual 
 battery, greater than the one possessed more or less 
 by all human beings." 
 3* 
 
30 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 In Scho()l(5raft'H "Aincriomi rmlians" an interest- 
 ing account is given of a woman-s[)iritualiHt, who 
 boro the name of tlie " Prophetess of Che-moi-elie- 
 goi-me-gou." Among the Indians she was called 
 "The woman of the l>lue-ro])e(l cloud." The account 
 was given by herself after slie had become a member 
 of the Methodist Church and renounced all con- 
 nection witli spirits. IMie following is her narra- 
 tive : — 
 
 " When I was a girl of about twelve or thirteen 
 years of age, my mother told me to look out for 
 something that would happen to me. Accordingly, 
 one morning early, in the middle of winter, I found 
 an unusual sign, and ran off, as far from the lodge as 
 I could, and remained there until my mother came 
 and found me out. She knew what was the matter, 
 and brought me nearer to the family lodge, and bade 
 me help her in making a small lodge of branches of 
 the spruce tree. She told me to remain there, and 
 keep away from every one, and as a diversion, to 
 keep myself employed in chopping wood, and that 
 she would bring me plenty of prepared bass-wood 
 bark to twist into twine. She told me she would 
 come to see me, in two days, and that in the mean 
 tine I must not even taste snow* 
 
Old Muckinuw. 
 
 3' 
 
 "I (lid iiH (Hrcutoil; ut tho end ol' two tluys kIio 
 cjuno to soo mo. I thought h\w would Hurcly bring 
 Tiio Hoiiiothing to oat, but to iny disappoiutiiuiiit sho 
 brouglit nothing. I .sulVrrc<l more I'roin l/iirsf tluin 
 hunger, liiough I felt my .Mtonuich gnawing. My mo- 
 ther Hut <iuietly down and .said (alter aseertaining 
 tliat 1 had not tasted anything), *My ehild, you are 
 the youngoHt ol' your sisters, and none are now left 
 me of all my sons and ehiMren, but you /<>///•' (alhid- 
 ing to her two elder sisters, herself and n little son, 
 still a mere lad). ' Who,' she continued, ' will take 
 care of us poor women ? Now, my daughter, listen 
 to me, and try to obey. Blacken your face and fast 
 really, that the Master of Life may have pity on you 
 and mc, and on us all. Do not, in the least, deviate 
 from my counsels, and in two days more, I m\\ come 
 to you. He will help you, if you are determined to 
 do what is right, and tell me, whether you are 
 favored or not, by tho true Great Spirit ; and if your 
 visions are not good, reject them.' So saying, sho 
 departed. 
 
 " I took my little hatchet and cut plenty of wood, 
 and twisted the cord thai was to be used in sewing 
 ap-puh'way-oon-un, or mats for the use of the family. 
 Gradually I began to feel less appetite, but my thirst 
 continued ; still I was fearful of touching the snow 
 
¥ 
 
 32 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 to allay it, by sucking it, as my mother had told me 
 that if I did so, though secretly, the Great Spirit 
 would see me, luid the lesser spirits also, and that 
 my fasting would be of no use. So I continued to 
 fast till the fourth day, when my mother came with 
 a little tin dish, and filling it with snow, she came 
 to my lodge, and was well pleased to find that I 
 had followed her injunctions. She melted the snow, 
 and told me to drink it. I did so, and felt refreshed, 
 but had a desire for more, which she told me would 
 not do, and I contented myself with what she had 
 given me. She again told me to get and follow a 
 good vision — a vision that might not only do us 
 good, but also benefit mankind, if I could. She 
 then left me, and for two days she did not come 
 near me, nor any human being, and I was left to my 
 own reflections. The night of the sixth day, I fan- 
 cied a voice called to me, and said: 'Poor child! I 
 pity your condition ; come, you are invited this 
 way ;' and I thought the voice proceeded from a cer- 
 tain distance from my lodge. I obeyed the sum- 
 mons, and going to the spot from which the voice 
 came, found a thin, shining path, like a silver cord, , 
 which I followed. It led straight forward, and, it 
 seemed, upward. After going a short distance I 
 stood atill and saw on my right hand the new moon. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 33 
 
 with a flame rising from the top like a candle, which 
 threw around a broad light. On the left appeared 
 the sun, near the point of its setting. I went on, 
 and I beheld on my right the face of Kau-ge-gag-be- 
 qua, or the everlasting woman, who told me her 
 name, and said to me, ' I give you my name, and 
 you may give it to another. I also give you that 
 which I have, life everlasting. I give you long life 
 on the earth, and skill in saving life in others. Go, 
 you are called on high.' 
 
 " I went on, and saw a man standing with a large, 
 circular body, and rays from his head, like horns. 
 He said, ' Fear not, my name is Monedo Wininees, 
 or the Little man Spirit. I give this name to your 
 first son. It is my life. Go to the place you are 
 called to visit.' I followed the path till I could see 
 that it led up to an opening in the sky, when I 
 heard a voice, and standing still, saw the figure of a 
 man standing near the path, whose head was sur- 
 rounded with a brilliant halo, and his breast was 
 covered with squares. He said to me : ' Look at 
 me, my name is 0-shau-wau-e-geeghick, or the Bright 
 Blue Sky. I am the veil that covers the opening 
 into the sky. Stand and listen to me. Do not be 
 afraid. I am going to endow you with gifts of life, 
 and put you in array that you may withstand and 
 
 
Or 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Mil':' 
 
 endure. Immediately I saw myself encircled with 
 bright points which rested against me like needles, 
 but gave me no pain, and they fell at my feet. This 
 was repeated several times, and at each time they 
 fell to the ground. He said, ' wait and do not fear, 
 till I have said and done all I am about to do.' I 
 then felt different instruments, first like awls, and 
 then like nails stuck into my flesh, but neither did 
 they give me pain, but, like the needles, fell at my 
 feet as often as they appeared. He then said, * that 
 is good,' meaning my trial by these points. ' You 
 will see length of days. Advance a little further,* 
 said he. I did so, and stood at the commencement 
 of the opening. * You have arrived,' said he, * at 
 the limit you cannot pass. I give you my name, 
 you can give it to another. Now, return! Look 
 around you. There is a conveyance for you. Do not 
 be afraid to get on its back, and when you get to 
 your lodge, you must take that which sustains the 
 human body.' I turned, and saw a kind of fish 
 swimming in the air, and getting upon it as directed, 
 was carried back with celerity, my hair floating be- 
 hind me in the air. And as soon as I got back, my 
 vision ceased. 
 
 " In the morning, being the sixth day of my fast, 
 my mother came with a little bit of dried trout. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 35 
 
 But such was my sensitiveness to all sounds, and m y 
 increased power of scent, produced by fasting, tliat 
 before she came in sight I heard her, while a great 
 way off, and when she came in, I could not bear the 
 smell of the fish or herself either. She said, ' I have 
 brought something for you to eat, only a mouthful, 
 to prevent your dying.' She prepared to cook it, 
 but I said, ' Mother, forbear, I do not wish to eat it 
 — the smell is offensive to me.' She accordingly left 
 oft' preparing to cook the fish, and again encouraged 
 me to persevere, and try to become a comfort to 
 her in her old age, and bereaved state, and left me. 
 
 " I attempted to cut wood, as usual, but in the 
 eftbrt I fell back on the snow, from weariness, and 
 lay some time ; at last I made an effort and rose, 
 and went to my lodge and lay down. I again saw 
 the vision, and each person who had before spoken 
 to me, and heard the promises of different kinds 
 made to me, and the songs. I went the same path 
 which I had pursued before, and met with the same 
 reception. I also had another vision, or celestial 
 visit, which I shall presently relate. My mother 
 came again on the seventh day, and brough me some 
 pounded corn boiled in snoiv-water, for she said I 
 must not drink water from lake or river. After 
 taking it, I related my vision to her. She said it 
 
36 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ilM 
 
 '|i rl 
 
 H 
 
 was good, and spoke to me to continue my fast three 
 days longer. I did so ; at the end of which she took 
 me home, and made a feast in honor of my success, 
 and invited a great many guests. I was told to eat 
 sparingly, and to take nothing too hearty or sub- 
 stantial ; but this was unnecessary, for my absti- 
 nence had made my senses so acute, that all animal 
 food had a gross and disagreeable odor. 
 
 " After the seventh day of my fast (she con- 
 tinued), while I was lying in my lodge, I saw a dark, 
 round object descending from the sky like a round 
 stone, and enter my lodge. As it came near, I saw 
 that it had small feet and hands like a human body. 
 It spoke to me and said, ' I give you the gift of see- 
 ing into futurity, that you may use it for the benefit 
 of yourself and the Indians — your relations and 
 tribes-people.' It then departed, but as it went 
 away, it assumed wings, and looked to me like the 
 red- headed woodpecker. 
 
 " In consequence of being thus favored, I assumed 
 the arts of a medicine- woman and a prophetess; 
 but never those of a Wabeno. The first time I 
 exercised the prophetical art, was at the strong and 
 repeated solicitations of my friends. It was in the 
 winter season, and they were then encamped west 
 of the Wisacoda, or Brule River, of Lake Superior, 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 37 
 
 fast three 
 she took 
 y success, 
 )ld to eat 
 y or sub- 
 my absti- 
 11 animal 
 
 (she con- 
 ,w a dark, 
 J a round 
 ;ar, I saw 
 lan body, 
 ift of see- 
 le benefit 
 ;ions and 
 it went 
 like the 
 
 and between it and the plains west. There were, 
 beside my mother's family and relatives, a consider- 
 able number of families. They had been some 
 time at the place, and were near starving, as they 
 could find no game. One evening the chief of the 
 party came into my mother's lodge. I had lain 
 down, and was supposed to be asleep, and he re- 
 quested of my mother that she would allow me to 
 try my skill to relieve them. My mother spoke to 
 me, and after some conversation, she gave her con- 
 sent. I told them to build the Jee-suh-aun, or pro- 
 phet's lodge strong, and gave particular directions 
 for it. I directed that it should consist of ten posts 
 or saplings, each of a different kind of wood, which 
 T named. When it was finished, and tightly wound 
 with skins, the entire population of the encamp- 
 ment assembled around it, and I went in, taking 
 only a small drum. I immediately knelt down, and 
 holding my head near the ground, in a position as 
 near as may be prostrate, began beating my drum, 
 and reciting my songs or incantations. The lodge 
 commenced shaking violently, by supernatural 
 means. I knew this by the compressed current of 
 air above, and the noise of motion. This being re- 
 garded by me, and by all without, as a proof of the 
 presence of the spirits I consulted, 1 ceased beat- 
 
38 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ! !! 
 
 ing and singing, and lay still, waiting for questions 
 in the position I at first assumed. 
 
 " The first question put to me was in relation to the 
 game, and where it was to be found. The response 
 was given by the orbicular spirit, who had appeared 
 to me. He said, ' How short-sighted you are ! If 
 you will go in a west direction, you will find game 
 in abundance.' Next day the camp was broken up, 
 and they all moved westward, the hunters, as usual, 
 going far ahead. They had not proceeded far be- 
 yond the bounds of their former hunting circle, when 
 they came upon tracks of moose, and that day they 
 killed a female and two young moose, nearly full- 
 grown. They pitched their encampment anew, and 
 had abundance of animal food in this new position. 
 
 " My reputation was established by this success, 
 and I was afterward noted in the tribe, in the art of 
 a medicine-woman, and sung the songs which I have 
 given to you." 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 Marquette's visit to Iroquois Point— Chapol and Fort — Old 
 Mackinaw — The French Settlement in the Northwest — Erec- 
 tion of Chapel and Fort — The Gateway of Commerce -The 
 Rendezvous of Traders, Trappers, Soldiers, Missionaries, 
 and Indians — Description of Fort — Courriers des Bois — 
 Expedition of Marquette and Joliet to Explore the Missis- 
 sippi — Oreen Bay — Fox River — Wisconsin — Mississippi — 
 Peoria Indians — Return Trip— Kaskaskia Indians — St. Xa- 
 vier Missions — Mission to "the Illinois" — Marquette's 
 Health declines — Starts out on Return trip to Mackinaw — 
 Dies and is Buried at mouth of Marquette River— Indfans 
 remove his Remains to Mackinaw — Funeral Cortege— Cere- 
 monies — Burial in the Chapel — Changes of time— School- 
 craft on the Place of Marquette's Burial— Missillmackiuac 
 — Name of Jesuit Missions. 
 
 In the year 1670, the devoted and self-sacrificing 
 missionary, Jean Marquette, with a company of 
 Indians of the Huron tribe, subsequently known 
 as the Wyandots from the Georgian Bay, on the 
 northeastern extremity of Lake Huron, entered for 
 the first time the old Indian town on the northern 
 
 (39) 
 
40 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 side of the Mackinaw Straits. During the time 
 he was planting his colony, and erecting his 
 chapel at Iroquois Point, which he afterward de- 
 signated St. Ignace, he resided on the M.ackinaw 
 Island. In 1671, he furnished an account of the 
 island and its surroundings, which was published in 
 •' The Kelations Des Jesuits" He says : 
 
 " Missilimackinac is an island famous in these 
 regions, of more than a league in diameter, and 
 elevated in some places by such high cliffs as to be 
 seen more than twelve leagues off. It is situated 
 just in the strait forming the communication be- 
 tween Lakes Huron and Illinois (Michigan). It is 
 the key, and, and as it were, the gate for all the 
 tribes from the south, as the Saut, (St. Marie) is 
 for those of the north, there being in this section 
 of country only those two passages by water, for a 
 great number of nations have to go by one or other 
 of these channels, in order to reach the French set- 
 tlements. 
 
 "This presents a peculiarly favorable opportu- 
 nity, both for instructing those who pass here, and 
 also for obtaining easy access and conveyance to 
 their places of abodo. 
 
 "This place is the most noted in these regions 
 for the abundance of its fisheries ; for. according to 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 4« 
 
 the Indian saying, ' this is the homo of the fishes.' 
 Elsewhere, although they exist in large numbers, it 
 is not proi)erly their 'home,' which is in the neigh- 
 borhood of Missilimackinac. 
 
 " In fact, beside the fish common to all the 
 other tribes, as the herring, carp, pike, gold-fish, 
 white-fish and sturgeon, there are found three varie- 
 ties of the trout — one common; the second of a 
 larger size, three feet long and one foot thick ; the 
 third monstrous, for we cannot otherwise describe 
 it — it being so fat that the Indians, who have a 
 peculiar relish for fats, can scarcely eat it. Besides, 
 the supply is such that a single Indian will take 
 forty or fifty of them through the ice, with a single 
 spear, in three hours. 
 
 " It is this attraction which has heretofore drawn 
 
 to a point so advantageous, the greater part of the 
 
 savages, in this country driven away by fear of the 
 
 Iroquois. The three tribes at present living on the 
 
 Baye des Puans (Green Bay) as strangers, formerly 
 
 dwelt on the main land near the middle of this 
 
 island — some on the borders of Lake Illinois, others 
 
 on the borders of Lake Huron. A part of them, 
 
 called SauteurSf had their abode on the main land 
 
 at the "West, and the others look upon this place as 
 
 their country for passing the winter, when there are 
 4* 
 
42 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 no fish at the Snut. The liurons, called Etonontnth' 
 ronnons, have lived for some years in the same island, 
 to escape the Iroquois. Four villages of Ottawas 
 had also their abode in this quarter. 
 
 " It is worthy of notice that those who bore the 
 name of the island, and called themselves Missilimack- 
 inac, were so numerous, that some of the survivors 
 yet living here assure us that they once had thirty 
 villages, all inclosed in a fortification of a league and 
 a half in circuit, when the Iroquois came and de- 
 feated them, inflated by a victory they had gained 
 over three thousand men of that nation, who had 
 carried their hostilities as far as the country of the 
 Agnichivnnons. 
 
 " In one word, the quantity of fish, united with the 
 excellence of the soil for Indian corn, has always 
 been a powerful attraction to the tribes in these 
 regions, of which the greater part subsist only on 
 fish, but some on Indian corn. On this account 
 many of these same tribes, perceiving that the 
 peace is likely to be established with the Iroquois, 
 have turned their attention to this point so conve- 
 nient for a return to their own country, and will 
 follow the examples of those who have made a be- 
 ginning on the islands of Lake Huron, which by 
 this means, will soon be peopled - from one end to 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 43 
 
 the other, an event higlily desirable to facilitate tlio 
 instruction of the Indian race, whom it would not 
 bo necessary to seek by journeys of two or three 
 hundred leagues on these great lakes, with incon- 
 ceivable danger and hardships. 
 
 "In order to aid the execution of the design, 
 signified to us by many of the savages, of taking 
 up their abode at this point, where some have 
 already passed the winter, hunting in the neighbor- 
 hood, we ourselves have also wintered here, in 
 order to make arrangements for establishing the 
 mission of St. Ignace, from whence it will be easy 
 to have access to all the Indians of Lake Huron, 
 when the several tribes shall have settled each on 
 its v>wn lands. 
 
 " With these advantages, the place has also its 
 inconveniences, particularly for the French, who are 
 not yet familiar, as are the savages, with the diffe- 
 rent kinds of fishery, in which the latter are trained 
 from their birth ; the winds and the tides occasion 
 no small embarrassment to the fishermen. 
 
 "The winds: For this is the central point be- 
 tween the three great lakes which surround it, and 
 which seem incessantly tossing ball at each other. 
 For no sooner has the wind ceased blowing from 
 Lake Michigan than Lake Huron hurls back the 
 
I ■■"■ - '■" ' ' ' l"!-^.. 
 
 44 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 il 
 
 y 
 
 gftlc it has rocnivcd, and Ijako Superior in its turn, 
 s«>n(ls forth its hhists from another (quarter, and thus 
 tlie game is phiyod from one to the other — and as 
 tliese hikes arc of vast extent, the winds cannot be 
 otherwise than boisterous, espeeially during the; au- 
 tumn." 
 
 •'Old Mackinaw," the Indian name of which is 
 Pe-quod-e-non-ge, an Indian town on the soutli side 
 of the Straits, became the place of the first French 
 / settlement northwest of Fort Frontenac, or Cada- 
 raetpie (m Lake Ontario. The settlement was made 
 by father Marquette, in 1671. Pe-quod-e-non-ge, as 
 wo liave seen in a previous Chapter, with its coasts 
 and islands before it, has been the theatre of some 
 of the most exritlng and interesting events in In- 
 dian history, previous to the arrival of the " white 
 man." It was the Metropolis of a portion of the 
 Ojibwa and Ottawa nations. It was there that 
 their Congresses met, to adopt a policy which ter- 
 minated in the conquest of the country south of it 
 — it was there that the tramping feet of thousands 
 of plumed and painted warriors shook Pe-quod-e- 
 non-ge, while dancing their war dances — it was from 
 there that the startling sound of the war yell of 
 these thousands was wafted to the adjacent coast 
 and islands, making the peaceful welkin ring with 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 4? 
 
 its turn, 
 
 Htid thus 
 
 r — and as 
 
 3annot bo 
 
 g tin; uu- 
 
 which 18 
 ?out]i side 
 8t French 
 or Cadu- 
 was niado 
 ion -go, as 
 ts coasts 
 } of some 
 ts in In- 
 3 "white 
 )n of the 
 lere that 
 hich ter- 
 mih of it 
 housands 
 e-quod-e- 
 was from 
 ' yell of- 
 jnt coast 
 ing with 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 their iinoarthly shouts of victory or death. In 
 process of time a Chapel and Fort were erected, 
 jmd it became a strong- hold and trading post of the 
 greatest importance to the entire region of the 
 lurthwest, being the gateway of commerce between 
 till' St. Lawrentjo and the Mississij)pi, and also the 
 ;;i:md avenue to the Upper Lakes of the north, and 
 the rendezvous oC the traders, merchants, trappers, 
 s.t|(li(«rs, missionaries and Indians of the whole 
 northwest. Villages of llurons and Ottawas were 
 located in the vicinity of the Fort and Chapel. The 
 Fort inclosed an area of about several acres, and was 
 surrounded with cedar pickets. The remains of the 
 fort and buildings can st'Ii bo seen. On an emi- 
 nence not far from the fort, the Ottawas erected a 
 fortification. Within the inclosure of the Fort and 
 adjoining the Chapel, the Jesuits erected a College, 
 the first institution of the kind in the Western 
 country. It was also the great depot for the Coiir- 
 riers des Bois, or rangers of the woods, who, from 
 their distant excursions, would congregate here. 
 The goods which they had brought from Canada, 
 for the purpose of exchanging for furs with the In- 
 dians of Green Bay and Illinois, and along the 
 shores of Lake Superior, and the region lying be- 
 tween that and the banks of the Mississippi, had to 
 
¥' 
 
 ,'«--«rn»(S««WBI 
 
 46 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 be deposited here, and they were usually on hand 
 a long time before they could be disposed of and 
 transferred to the distant marts of trade. 
 
 In the year 1672, while Marquette was engaged 
 in his duties as priest at the Chapel, the site of 
 which now bears the name of St. Ignatius, and also 
 employed in instructing the Indian youth of the 
 villages, he was visited by Joliet, a member of the 
 same order who bore a commission from Frontenac, 
 then Grovernor of Canada, empowering him to select 
 Marquette as a companion and enter upon a voyage 
 of discovery. The winter was spent by these men 
 in making preparations to carry out the commands 
 of their superiors. The specific object of their mis- 
 sion was to explore the Mississippi, which was sup- 
 posed to empty into the Gulf of California. That all 
 possible information might be gained in regard to 
 this unknown river, Marquette held conversations 
 with all the noted Indian explorers and trappers, as 
 well as the rangers of the woods within his reach. 
 From the information thus gained he made out a map 
 of the river, including its source and direction, and 
 all the streams known to empty into it. 
 
 Spring at length came, and on a bright, beautiful 
 morning in the month of May, having bid adieu to 
 his charge at his mission, and commended his flock 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 4/ 
 
 on hand 
 sd of and 
 
 engaged 
 e site of 
 and also 
 b of the 
 ler of the 
 rontenac, 
 I to select 
 a voyage 
 bese men 
 ommands 
 iheir mis- 
 was sup- 
 That all 
 •egard to 
 ersations 
 ppers, as 
 is reacli. 
 ut a map 
 bion, and 
 
 beautiful 
 adieu to 
 lis flock 
 
 V 
 
 I 
 
 to God, Marquette and his companion, with five 
 others selected for the purpose, entered their bark 
 canoes with paddles in hand, and St. Ignatius was 
 soon lost to the sight of the devoted missionary for- 
 ever. After sailing along the Straits they entered 
 Lake Michigan, and continued their voyage until 
 they arrived at Green Bay, passed the mouth of the 
 Menominee Kiver, finally reaching that of the Fox 
 Eiver. On the 7th of June, having sailed upwards 
 of two hundred miles, the voyagers reached the 
 mission of St. Francis Xavier. They had now 
 reached the limit of all former French or English 
 discoveries. The new and unknown West spread 
 out before them, and the thousand dangers and 
 hardships by river and land, heightened by tales of 
 horror related to them by the Indians, were pre- 
 sented to their imagination. Resolutely determined 
 to prosecute the enterprise committed to their 
 charge, they knelt upon the shore of Fox River to 
 renew their devotions and obtain the divine gui- 
 dance and protection. Encouraged by past success, 
 and urged on by a strong faith, they launched their 
 canoes upon the bosom of the Fox River, and 
 breaking the silence of its shores by the dip of their 
 paddles, they sailed up its current. When they 
 reached the rapids of that river, it was with diffi- 
 
48 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 i I 
 
 
 i 
 ■ ji 
 
 f 
 
 1 
 
 ■ ) 
 
 culty they were enabled to proceed. There was not 
 power enough in the paddles of the two canoes to 
 stem the current, and they were obliged to wade up 
 the rapids on the jagged rocks, and thus tow them 
 along. Having made the voyage of the Fox they 
 arrived at the portage, and taking their canoes con- 
 taining their provision and clothes upon their 
 shoulders, they reached the Wisconsin and launched 
 them upon that stream. They had no longer to 
 breast a rapid current, as the waters of the Wiscon- 
 sin flowed west. With renewed courage they pro- 
 secuted their voyage, and after ten days their hearts 
 were made glad at the sight of the broad and beau- 
 tiful river which they were entering, and which 
 they supposed would bear them to the far-off west- 
 ern sea. They had reached the "father of waters." 
 No sight could be more charming than that which 
 presented itself to their vision as they beheld on 
 either side, alternately stretching away to a vast 
 distance, immense forests of mountain and plain. 
 
 At length, on the 25th of June, as they were 
 sailing along near the eastern shore, they disco- 
 vered foot-prints in the sand. At sight of these 
 they landed and fastening their canoes, that they 
 might again look upon the face of human beings, 
 they followed an Indian path which led up the 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 49 
 
 re was not 
 canoes to 
 
 wade up 
 tow them 
 Fox they 
 inoes con- 
 pon their 
 
 1 launched 
 longer to 
 s Wiscon- 
 
 they pro- 
 leir hearts 
 and beau- 
 nd which 
 "-off west- 
 f waters." 
 lat which 
 beheld on 
 to a vast 
 
 plain, 
 hey were 
 Ley disco- 
 of these 
 that they 
 n beings, 
 up the 
 
 
 bank. They were not long in finding two Indian 
 villages, which proved to be those of the "Pewa- 
 rias" and " Moing-wenas." In answer to a question 
 proposed by Marquette, who addressed them in In- 
 dian, and inquired who they were ; they answered, 
 " We are Illinois." After an exchange of friendly 
 greetings with these peaceable Indians, the voyagers 
 re -embarked and passed on down the river. They 
 continued on their downward passage until they 
 reached the mouth of the Missouri, whicli poured 
 its turbid flood into the Mississippi; and still fur- 
 ther until they passed the mouth of the Ohio, and 
 u.H » on down until they passed the Arkansas, and 
 a^ .1 within thirty miles of the mouth of the 
 Mississippi. It was not necessary to proceed any 
 further to satisfy the explorers that the river entered 
 into the Gulf of Mexico, instead of that of Cali- 
 fornia. 
 
 Having accomplished the end of the expedition, 
 the company started out upon their return trip on 
 the 17th of July. When they reached the mouth 
 of the Illinois river, they determined on returning 
 by that route to Mackinaw. Arriving at the por- 
 tage of that river they fell in with a tribe of In- 
 dians who called themselves the Kaskaskias, who 
 kindly volunteered to conduct them to Lake Michi- 
 6 
 
 .,, 
 
•■ ihm'^iMfvmmmifHttll 
 
 so 
 
 Old MackinaAv 
 
 lu 
 
 gan, where in due time they arrived. After sailing 
 along the western shore of the lake they again 
 found themselves at Green Bay, and were heartily 
 welcomed by the brethren at the mission of St. 
 Francis Xavier. Worn down with fatigue, Mar- 
 quette determined to remain here to recruit his 
 health before returning to his missionary labors. 
 He spent his time at this mission post in copying 
 his journal of the voyage down the Mississippi and 
 back, which he accompanied by a map of the river 
 v/and country, and sent by the Ottawa flotilla to his 
 superiors at Montreal. The return of this flotilla 
 brought him orders for the establishment of a mis- 
 sion among the Illinois, with whom he had so 
 friendly an interview on his exploring voyage. 
 Having passed the winter and succeeding summer 
 at the St. Xavier mission, he started out in the fall 
 for Kaskaskia. The difficulties of the journey were 
 such, it having to be accomplished by land and 
 water, that his health, which had been greatly en- 
 feebled by his former voyage, was not sufficient to 
 enable him to endure the cold winds of winter 
 which had set in before the completion of the jour- 
 ney. On reaching the Chicago Eiver it was found 
 closed, and he did not consider it prudent to under- 
 take an over-land journey. He therefore resolved 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 51 
 
 to winter at that point, and giving his Indian com- 
 panions who accompanied him the proper instruc- 
 tions and pious counsel, he sent them back to Green 
 Bay. Two Frenchmen made an arrangement to 
 remain with him during the winter. The nearest 
 persons to their lodge were fifty miles distant. They 
 were French trappers and traders, one of whom V 
 bore the title of a doctor. This latter person being 
 informed of Marquette's ill-health paid him a visit, 
 and did what he could for his relief. He also re- 
 ceived friendly offices from the Indians in the neigh- 
 borhood, a party of whom proposed to carry him 
 and all his baggage to the contemplated mission at 
 Kaskaskia. His health, however, was such that it 
 did not allow him to accept their kind offer, and he 
 was obliged to remain in his camp during the 
 winter. 
 
 Spring at length returned after a long and dreary 
 winter, and Marquette, with some Indian compa- 
 nions, started out for the upper waters of the Illi- 
 nois Eiver. In about two weeks he reached Kas- 
 kaskia, and at once entered upon the duties of his 
 mission. After having instructed the Indians, so 
 as to enable them to understand the objects of his 
 mission to them, he called them all together in the 
 open prairie, where he had erected a rude altar sur- 
 
¥ 
 
 52 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 mounted by the cross, and adorned with pictures 
 of the Virgin Mary. The chiefs and warriors, and 
 the whole tribe, were addressed by him in their 
 native tongue. He made a number of presents to 
 them, the more effectually to gain their affections 
 and confidence, and then related to them the simple 
 story of the cross, after which he celebrated mass. 
 The scene was truly impressive, and the effect upon 
 the sons of the forest was all that the missionary 
 could desire. Bright and cheering were the pros- 
 pects of converting the Kaskaskias to Christianity, 
 but the devoted missionary was doomed to disap- 
 pointment. His former malady returned, and as- 
 sumed a type of so alarming a nature, that he was 
 satisfied his labors on earth would soon come to an 
 end. 
 
 Thoughts of hiy beloved mission at Mackinaw, 
 where he had spent so many days in preaching to 
 Ottawas and Hurons, and in teaching their youth 
 Christian science, filled his mind ; and the Christian, 
 not to say natural, desire of his heart, was again to 
 bow in the Chapel of St. Ignatius, and again behold 
 the parents and children of his former charge. 
 Having received the last rites of the church he set 
 out to the lake, accompan 1 by the Kaskaskias 
 who sorrowed much at his r 3parture, but who were 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 J3 
 
 comforted by the dying missionary, who assured 
 them that another would soon be sent to take his 
 place. When they reached the shore of Lake Mi- 
 chigan the Indians returned, and with his two 
 French companions Marquette embarked in a canoe 
 upon its waters. As they coasted along the eastern 
 shore of the lake the health of Marquette continued 
 to fail, and he at last became so ■';.:■' that when 
 they landed to encamp for the night they had to 
 lift him out of the canoe. Much further they could 
 not proceed, as the journey of life with the mis- 
 sionary was rapidly drawing to a close. 
 
 Conscious of his approaching dissolution, as they 
 were gently gliding along the shore, he directed his 
 companions to paddle into the mouth of a small 
 river which they were nearing, and pointing to an 
 eminence not far from the bank, he languidly said, 
 "Bury me there." That river, to this day, bears 
 the name of the lamented Marquette. On landing 
 they erected a bark cabin, and stretched the dying 
 missionary as comfortably as they could beneath its 
 humble roof Having blessed some water with the 
 usual ceremonies of the Catholic Church, he gave 
 his companions directions how to proceed in his 
 last moments. He instructed them also in regard 
 to the manner in which they were to arrange his 
 5* 
 
54 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 body when dead, and the ceremonies to be per- 
 formed when it was committed to the earth. Ho 
 then, for the last time, heard the confessions of his 
 companions, encouraging them 16 rely on the mercy 
 and protection of God, and tlicn sent them away to 
 take the repose they so mu-h needed. After a few 
 hours he felt that he was about^ taking his last 
 sleep, and calling them, he took his crucifix and 
 placing it in their hjiuds, pronounced in a clear 
 voice his profession of faith, thanking the Almighty 
 for the favor of permitting him to die a Jesuit Mis- 
 sionary. Then calmly folding his arms upon his 
 breast with the name of Jesus on his lips, and his 
 eyes raised to heaven, while over his face beamed 
 the radiance of immortality, he passed away to the 
 land of the blest. 
 
 In conformity with the directions of the deceased, in 
 due time his companions prepared the body for burial, 
 and to the sound of his Chapel bell bore it slowly and 
 solemnly to the place designated, where they commit- 
 ted it to the dust, and erected a rude cross to point 
 out to the passing traveler the place of his grave. 
 
 James Marquette was of a most ancient and hon- 
 orable family of the city of Laon, France. Born 
 at the ancient seat of his family, in the year 1637, f 
 he was, through his pious mother, Kose deja Salle, 
 
 m 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 J5 
 
 allied to the venomble John Baptist do la Salle, tho 
 founder of the institute known an the Brothers of 
 the Christian Schools. At the age of seventeen ho 
 entered the Society of Jesus, and after two ^(ears of 
 study and self-examination had passed away, he 
 was, as is usual with the young Jesuits, employed in 
 teaching, which position he held for twelve years. 
 No sooner had he l)een invested with the priesthood, 
 than his desire to become in all things an imitator 
 of his chosen patron, St. Francis Xavier,- induced 
 him to seek a mission in some land that knew not 
 'rod, that he might labor there to his latest breath, 
 and die unaided and alone. His desire was grati- 
 fied. For nine years he labored among the Indians, 
 and was able to pl-each to them in ten different lan- 
 guages ; but he rests from his labors, and his works 
 follow him. He died, May 18, 1676. 
 
 The Indians of Mackinaw and vicinity, and also 
 those of Kaskaskia, were in great sorrow when the 
 tidings of Marquette's death reached them. Not 
 long after this melancholy event, a large company 
 of Ojibwas, Ottawas, and Hurons, who had been 
 out on a hunting expedition, landed their canoes at 
 the mouth of the Marquette river, with the inten- 
 tion of removing his remains to Mackinaw. They 
 had heard of his desire to have his body interred in 
 
56 
 
 Old Mackinaw 
 
 the consecrated ground of St. Ignatius, and they 
 had resolved that the dying wish of the missionary 
 should be fulfilled. As they stood around in silence 
 and gazed upon the cross that mr.rked the place of 
 his burial, the hearts of the stern warriors were 
 moved. The bones of the missionary were dug up 
 and placed in a neat box of bark made for the oc- 
 casion, and the numerous canoes which formed a 
 large fleet started from the mouth of the river with 
 nothing but the sighs of the Indians, and the dip 
 of the paddles to break the silence of the scene. 
 Ar. they advanced towards Mackinaw, the funeral 
 cortege was met by a large number of canoes bear- 
 ing Ottawas, Hurons, and Iroquois, and still others 
 shot out ever and anon to join the fleet. 
 
 When they arrived in sight of the Point, and 
 beheld the cross of St. Ignatius as if painted against 
 the northern sky, the missionaries in charge came 
 out to the beach clad in vestments adapted to the 
 occasion. How was the scene heightened when the 
 priests commenced, as the canoe bearing the re- 
 mains of Marquette neared the shore, to chant the 
 requiem for the dead. The whole population was 
 out, entirely covering the beach, and as the proces- 
 sion marched up to the Chapel with cross and 
 prayer, and tapers burning, and laid the bark box 
 
 ^t: 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 57 
 
 , and they 
 missionary 
 1 in silence 
 be place of 
 •riors were 
 jre dug up 
 for the oc- 
 i formed a 
 river with 
 ad the dip 
 the scene, 
 he funeral 
 moes bear- 
 itill others 
 
 Point, and 
 bed against 
 arge came 
 ted to the 
 when the 
 ig the re- 
 chant the 
 lation was 
 ihe proces- 
 cross and 
 bark box 
 
 beneath a pall made in the form of a coffin, the Horm 
 iind daiiglitors of the forest wept. After the fune- 
 ral service was ended, the coiTm was placed in a 
 vault in the middle of the church, where the Catholic 
 historian says, "Mar([uetto reposes as the guardian 
 angel of the Ottawa missions." 
 
 "lie was the fii'st and last white man who ever 
 had such au asHombly of the wild sons of the forest 
 to attend him to his grave. 
 
 "So many stirring events succeeded each other 
 after this period — first, the war between the English 
 Colonists, and the French; then the Colonists with 
 the Indians, the Revolutionary War, the Indian Wars, 
 and finally the War of 1812, with the death of all 
 those who witnessed his burial, including the Fathers 
 who officiated at the time, whose papers were lost, 
 together with the total destruction and evacuation 
 of this mission station for many years, naturally 
 obliterated all recollections of the transaction, which 
 accounts for the total ignorance of the present inha- 
 bitants of Point St. Ignatius respecting it. The 
 locality of his grave is lost; but only until the 
 Archangel's trump, at the last, shall summon him 
 from his narrow grave, with those plumed and 
 painted warriou who now lie around him." 
 
 The Missionaries who succeeded Marquette, at 
 
 -'M 
 
 I 1 
 
58 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Mackinaw, continued their labors until 1706, when, 
 finding it useless to continue the mission, or struggle 
 any longer with superstition and vice, they burned 
 down their College and Chapel, and returned to 
 Quebec. The governor, alarmed at this step, at 
 last promised to enforce the laws against the disso- 
 lute French, and prevailed on Father Marest to 
 return. Soon after the Ottawns, discontented at De- 
 troit, a French post, which was served by the Re- 
 collects, and where the blood of a Recollect had 
 been shed in a riot, began to move back to Macki- 
 
 J naw, and the mission was renewed. In 1721, Char- 
 levoix visited this mission, and this is the last we 
 hear of it. 
 
 Nearly two hundred years have passed away 
 since that event. The Chapel of St. Ignatius has 
 passed away, and with it the Chapel, and Fort, and 
 College at Old Mackinaw. Nothing is left but the 
 
 J stone walls and stumps of the pickets which sur- 
 rounded them, and which may be seen to this day. 
 To the Catholic, this consecrated spot, the site of 
 one of their first Chapels, and their first College in 
 the great northwest, must possess unusual interest. 
 As there is a diflference of opinion in relation to 
 the burial place of Marquette, whether it was on 
 the north or south side of the Straits, we give the 
 
 I 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 59 
 
 L706, when, 
 or struggle 
 hey burned 
 returned to 
 lis step, at 
 t) the disso- 
 Marest to 
 mted at De- 
 by the Re- 
 jcollect had 
 k to Macki- 
 1721, Char- 
 the last we 
 
 assed away 
 gnatius has 
 d Fort, and 
 left but the 
 
 which sur- 
 ;o this day. 
 
 the site of 
 b College in 
 ual interest. 
 
 relation to 
 • it was on 
 we give the 
 
 following from "Schoolcraft's Discovery of the 
 Sources of the Mississippi." lie says: "They car- 
 ried his body to the Mission of Old Mackinaw, of 
 which he was the founder, where it was interred. 
 It is known that the Mission of Mackinaw fell on 
 the downfall of the Jesuits. When the post of 
 Mackinaw was removed from the peninsula to the 
 island, which was about 1780, the bones of the Mis- 
 sionary were transferred to the old Catholic burial 
 ground, in the village on the isluuJ. There they 
 remained till a land or property questin/i arose to 
 agitate the Church, and when the crisis h.ippeueu. 
 the whole grave-yard was disturbed, and his boi'*j.» , 
 / with others, Avere transferred to the Indie u s illage 
 f of La Cros.se, which is in the vicinity oi L'Arbre 
 I Croche, Michigan." 
 
 There is a difference of opinion rJso as to the point 
 
 ^ from whence Marquette and his companions started 
 
 '1 for the discovery of the Mississippi. Schoolcraft 
 
 says: "Wherever Missilimackinac is mentioned 
 
 'in the Missionary letters, or in the history of this 
 
 ?; period, it is the ancient Fort ou i^he apex of the 
 
 ^, Michigan peninsula that is alluded to." In his In- 
 
 'Production to the above work, he says, that " Father 
 
 Marquette, after laying the foundation of Missili- 
 
 ^^mackinac, proceeded in company with Sieur Joliet, 
 
 :l 
 
 y 
 
 I !9 
 
6o 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 up the Fox Eiver of Green Bay, and crossing the 
 portage into the Wisconsin, entered the Mississippi 
 in 1673." 
 
 It is an established fact, that Marquette organized 
 the Mission at Old Mackinaw, in the year 1671, 
 subsequently to that at the opposite point, and that 
 he remained there until the year 1673, when he em- 
 barked with Joliet on his exploring tour of the Mis-' 
 sissippi. Charelvoix places the Mission of St. Ig- 
 nace, on the south side of the Straits, adjoining the 
 Fort, and has made no such designation on the north 
 side, showing at least that this mission was more 
 modern than the other. Nearly all the Jesuit Mis- 
 sions bore the name of St. Ignatius, in honor of 
 their founder, as those of the Franciscans bore the 
 name of St. Francis. Ignatius Loyola and Francis 
 Xavier were the founders of these sects. 
 
ising the 
 ississippi 
 
 rganized 
 ir 1671, 
 and that 
 n he em- 
 the Mis-' 
 P St. Ig- 
 aing the 
 he north 
 as more 
 uit Mis- 
 onor of 
 )ore the 
 Francis 
 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 ■m 
 
 -I 
 
 m 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 La Salle's visit to Mackinaw — English traders— La Hontan's 
 visit — Mackinaw an English fort — Speech of a .Chippewa 
 Chief— Indian stratagem — Massacre of the English at the 
 fort — Escape of Mr. Alexander Henry — Early white settle- 
 ment of Mackinaw — Present description — Relations of the 
 Jesuits — Remarkable phenomena — Parhelia — Subterra- 
 nean river. 
 
 In the summer of 1679 the Griffin, built by La / 
 Salle and his company on the shore of Lake Erie, 
 at the present site of the town of Erie, passed up 
 the St. Clair, sailed over the Huron, and entering 
 the Straits, found a safe harbor at Old Mackinaw^ 
 La Salle's expedition passed eight or nine years at y 
 this place, and from hence they pene'trated the coun- 
 try in all directions. At the same time it continued 
 to be the summer resort of numerous Indian tribes 
 who came here to trade and engage in the wild sports 
 and recreations peculiar to the savage race. As a 
 city of peace, it was regarded in the same light that 
 
 « (61) 
 
jgtm*9ll(f^ 
 
 62 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 the ancient Hebrews regarded their cities of Refuge, 
 and among those who congregated here all animosi- 
 ties were forgotten. The smoke of the calumet of 
 peace always ascended, and the war cry never as 
 yet has been heard in its streets. 
 
 In Heriot's Travels, published in 1807, we find 
 the following interesting item : 
 
 'In 1671 Father Marquette came hither with a 
 party of Hurons, whom he prevailed on to form a 
 settlement. A fort was constructed, and it afterward 
 became an important spot. It was the place of general 
 assemblage for all the French who went to traffic 
 with the distant nations. It was the asylum of all 
 savages who came to exchange their furs for mer- 
 chandise. When individuals belonging to tribes at 
 war with each other came thither, and met on com- 
 mercial adventure, their animosities were sus- 
 pended." 
 
 Notwithstanding San-ge-man and his warriors had 
 braved the dangers of the Straits and had slain a 
 hundred of their enemies whose residence was here, 
 yet it was not in the town that they were slain. No 
 blood was evor shed by Indian hands within its pre- 
 cincts up to this period, and had it remained in 
 possession of the French the terrible scenes subse- 
 quently enacted within its streets would in all prob- 
 
 ir 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 63 
 
 ability never have occurred, and Old Mackinaw 
 would have haci ;^ city of Refuge to this day. 
 
 The English, excited by the emoluments derived 
 from the fur trade, desired to secure a share in this 
 lucrative traffic of the northwestern Lakes. They, 
 accordingly, in the year 1686, fitted out an expedi- 
 tion, and through the interposition of the Fox In- 
 dians., whose friendship they secured by valuable 
 presents ; the expedition reached Old Mackinaw, the 
 "Queen of the Lakes," and found the El Dorado 
 they had so long desired. 
 
 The following interesting description, from Park- 
 man's " History of the Conspiracy of Pontiac," of a 
 voyage by an English merchant to Old Mackinaw 
 about this time, will be in place here : "Passing the 
 fort and settlement of Detroit, he soon enters Lake 
 St. Clair, which seems like a broad basin filled 
 to overflowing, while along its far distant verge a 
 faint line of forests separates the water from the sky. 
 He crosses the lake, and his voyagers next urge 
 his canoe against the current of the great river 
 above. At length Lake Huron opens before him, 
 stretching its liquid expanse like an ocean to the 
 furthest horizon. His canoe skirts the eastern shore 
 of Michigan, where the forest rises like a wall from 
 the water's edge, and as he advances onward, an 
 
*'■■' 
 
 64 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 endless line of stiff' and shaggy fir trees hung with 
 long mosses, fringe the shore with an aspect of deso- 
 lation. Passing on his right the extensive Island 
 of Bois Blanc, he sees nearly in front the beautiful 
 Island of Mackinaw rising with its white cliffs and 
 green foliage from the broad breast of waters. He 
 does not steer toward it, for at that day the Indians 
 were its only tenants, but keeps along the main 
 shore to the left, while his voyagers raise their song 
 and chorus. Doubling a point he sees before him 
 the red flag of England swelling lazily in the wind, 
 and the palisades and wooden bastions of Fort Macki- 
 naw standing close upon the margin of the lake. 
 On the beach canoes are drawn up, and Canadians 
 and Indians are idly lounging. A little beyond the 
 fort is a cluster of white Canadian houses roofed 
 with bark and protected by fences of strong round 
 pickets. The trader enters the gate and sees before 
 him an extensive square area, surrounded by high 
 palisades. Numerous houses, barracks, and other 
 buildings form a smaller square within, and in the 
 vacant place which they enclose appear the red 
 uniforms of British soldiers, the grey coats of the 
 Canadians, and the gaudy Indian blankets mingled 
 in picturesque confusion, while a multitude of squaws 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 65 
 
 with children of every hue stroll restlessly about 
 the place. Such was old fort Mackinaw in 1763." 
 
 La Hontau, who visited Mackinaw in 1688, says : 
 "It is a place of great importance. It is not above 
 half a league distant from the lUinese (Michigan) 
 Lake. Here the Hurons and Ottawas have each of 
 them a village, the one being severed from the other 
 by a single palisado, but the Ottawas are beginning 
 to build a fort upon a hill that stands but one thou- 
 sand or twelve hundred paces off. In this place the 
 Jesuits have a little house or college adjoining to a 
 church, and inclosed with pales that separate it from 
 the village of the Hurons. The Courriers de Bois 
 have but a very small settlement here, at the same 
 time it is not inconsiderable, as being the staple 
 of all the goods that they truck with the south and 
 west savages; for they cannot avoid passing this 
 way when they go to the seats of the Illinese and 
 the Oumamis on to the Bay des Puanto, and to the 
 Eiver Mississippi. Missilimackinac is situated very 
 advantageously, for the Iroquese dare not venture 
 with their sorry canoes to cross the stright of the 
 Illinese Lake, which is two leagues over; besides 
 that the Lake of the Hurons is too rough for such 
 slender boats, and as they cannot come to it by water, 
 so they cannot approach it by land by reason of the 
 6* 
 
II 
 
 66 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 f 
 
 marshes, fens, and little rivers which it would be 
 very difficult to cross, not to mention that the stright 
 of the Illinese Lake lies still in their way." 
 
 As rivals of the French, the English were never 
 regarded with favor by the various Indian tribes. 
 Constant encroachments by the English from year 
 to year, though they were lavish of their gifts did 
 not tend to soften the hostility of the tribes. Thus 
 matters continued until Mackinaw passed into the 
 hands of the English, which event took place after 
 the fall of Quebec in the year 1759. This transfer 
 of jurisdiction from a people that the Indians loved 
 to one that they experienced a growing hate for 
 during three-quarters of a century, filled them with 
 a spirit of revenge. Such was the dislike of the 
 Indians of Mackinaw to the English, that when 
 Alexander Henry visited that place in 1761, he was 
 obliged to conceal the fact that he was an English- 
 man and disguise himself as a Canadian voyager. 
 On the way he was frequen^^y warned by the Indans 
 to turn back, as he would not be received at Macki- 
 naw, and as there were no British soldiers there as 
 yet, he was assured that his visit would be attend with 
 great hazard. He still persisted, however, and finally, 
 with his canoes laden with goods he reached the fort, 
 which, we have before remarked, was surrounded 
 
 
»^ '" 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 67 
 
 with palisades, and occupied the high ground imme- 
 diately back from the beach. When he entered the 
 village he met with a cold reception, and the inha- 
 bitants did all in their power to alarm and dis- 
 courage him. 
 
 Soon after his arrival he received the very un- 
 pleasant intelligence, that a large number of Chippe- 
 was were coming from the neighboring villages in 
 their canoes to call upon him. Under ordinary cir- 
 cumstances this information would not have excited 
 any alarm, but as the French of Mackinaw as well 
 as the Indians were alike hostile to the English 
 trader, it was no difficult matter to apprehend dan- 
 ger. At length the Indians, about sixty in number, 
 arrived, each with a tomahawk in one hand and a 
 scalping knife in the other. The garrison at this 
 time contained about ninety soldiers, a commander 
 and two officers. Beside the small arms, on the bas- 
 tions were mounted two small pieces of brass can- 
 non. Beside Henry, there were four English mer- 
 chants at the fort. After the Indians were intro- 
 duced to Henry and his English brethren, their 
 chief presented him with a few strings of wampum 
 and addressed them as follows : 
 
 " Englishmen, it is to you that I speak, and I de- 
 mand your attention. You know that the French 
 
68 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 King is our father. He promised to be such, and w « 
 in turn promised to be his children. This promise u .! 
 have kept. It is you that have made war with this 
 our father. You are his enemy, and how then could 
 you have the boldness to venture among us, his 
 children. You know that his enemies are ours. We 
 are informed that our father, the King of France, is 
 old and infirm, and that being fatigued with making 
 war upon your nation, he has fallen asleep. During 
 this sleep you have taken advantage of him and 
 possessed yourselves, of Canada. But his nap is 
 aliiiost at an end. I think I hear him already stir- 
 ring and inquiring for his children, and when he 
 does awake what must become of you? He will 
 utterly destroy you. Although you have conquered 
 the French you have not conquered us. We are 
 not your slaves. These lakes, these woods and 
 mountains are left to us by our ancestors, they are 
 our inheritance and we will part with them to none. 
 Your nation supposes that we, like the white people, 
 cannot live without bread, and pork, and beef, but 
 you ought to know that He, the Great Spirit and 
 Master of Life, has provided food for us in these 
 spacious lakes and on these woody mountains. 
 
 Our father, the King of France, employed our 
 young men to make war upon your nation. In this 
 
 '!," 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 69 
 
 warfare many of them have been killed, and it is 
 our custom to retaliate until such time as the spirits 
 of the slain are satisfied. But the spirits of the slain 
 are to be satisfied in one of two ways ; the first is 
 by the spilling the blood of the nation by wliich 
 they fell, the other by covering the bodies of the 
 dead, and thus allaying the resentment of their 
 relations. This is done by making presents. Your 
 king has never sent us any presents, nor entered 
 into any treaty with us, wherefore he and we are 
 still at war, and until he does these things we 
 must consider that we have no other father or 
 friend among the white men than the King of 
 France. But for you, we have taken into con- 
 sideration that you have ventured among us 
 in the expectation that we would not molest 
 you. You do not come around with the intention 
 to make war. You come in peace to trade with 
 us, and supply us with necessaries, of which we 
 aie in much need. We shall regard you, therefore, 
 as a brother., and you may sleep tranquilly with- 
 out fear of the Chippewas. As a token of friend- 
 ship we present you with this pipe to smoke." 
 
 Henry was afterwards visited by a party of two 
 hundred Ottawa warriors from VArhre Groche^ about 
 
70 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 seventy miles southwest of Mackinaw. One of the 
 Chiofs addressed him thus : — 
 
 "Englishmen; We, the Ottawas, were some time 
 since informed of your arrival in this country, and 
 of your having brought with you the goods wo so 
 much need. At this news we were greatly pleased, 
 believing that, through your assistance, our wives 
 and children would be able to pass another winter ; 
 but, what was our surprise, when a few days ago 
 we were informed the goods which we had expected 
 were intended for us were on the eve of departure 
 for distant countries, some of which are inhabited 
 by our enemies. These accounts being spread, 
 our wives and children came to us crying, and de- 
 siring that we should go to the Fort to learn with 
 our ears the truth or falsehood. "We accordingly 
 embarked, almost naked as you see, and on our 
 arrival here we have inquired into the accounts, 
 and found them true. We see your canoes ready 
 to depart, and find your men engaged for the Mis- 
 sissippi and other distant regions. Under these cir- 
 cumstances we have considered the affair, and you 
 are now sent for that you may hear our determina- 
 tion, which is, that you shall give each of our men, 
 young and old, merchandise and ammunition to the 
 amount of fifty beaver skins on credit, and for which 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 7» 
 
 I have no doubt of their payin^r you in the summer, 
 on their return from their wintering." 
 
 The demands of the Indians upon the English, 
 and their dissatisfaction arising therefrom, had the 
 effect to rouse th'^ dift'erent tribes, and they were 
 noticed assembling from tho surrounding country in 
 great numbers, and gathering in the vicinity of 
 Mackinaw. One night four hundred Indians lay 
 around the Fort, evidently plotting mischief. A 
 Chippewa chief apprised Henry of the impending 
 danger; but when the suspicions were communi- 
 cated to the Commandant of the Fort, Major Ethe- 
 rington, he took no notice of it, supposing that tho 
 Indians only resorted to this for the purpose of in- 
 timidation. The next day being the King's birth- 
 day, the Indians proposed to celebrate it by a game 
 of haggatiway. It was played with bat and ball, 
 and the contestants were the Chippewas and Sacs. 
 Major Etherington was present at the game, and bet 
 largely on the side of the Chippewas. In the midst 
 of the game, when all were in a high state of ex- 
 citement, a warrior struck the ball and sent it whiz- 
 zing over the palisade into the Fort. Instantly tho 
 Indian war yell was heard, and the savages rushed 
 within the gate, not however for the ball, but to 
 tomahawk and scalp every Englishman within the 
 
 1 !1 
 
 I ■ 
 
 I 
 
72 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 h 
 
 Fort. The BVencli stood by as silent y ». otaiors of 
 the bl(jody scene, and wore not attackta.. 
 
 Henry witnessed the dreadful slaughter from his 
 window, and being unarmed he hastened out, and 
 springing over a low fence which divided his house 
 from that of M. Langlade, the French Interpreter, 
 entered the latter, and requested some one to direct 
 him to a place of safety. Langlade hearing the 
 request, replied that ho could do nothing for him. 
 At that moment a alavo belonging to Langlade, of 
 the Pawnee tribe of Indians, took him to a door 
 which she opened, and informed him that it led to 
 the garret where he might conceal himself. She 
 then locked the door and took away the key. 
 Through a hole in the wall Henry could have a 
 complete view of the Fort. He beheld the heaps of 
 the slain, and heard the savage yells, until the last 
 victim was dispatched. Having finished the work 
 of death in the Fort, the Indians went out to search 
 the houses. Some Indians entered Langlade's house 
 and asked if there were any Englishmen con- 
 cealed in it. He replied that he did not know, they 
 might search for themselves. At length they 
 opened the garret door and ascended the stairs, but 
 Henry had concealed himself among a heap of 
 birch-bark vessels, which had been used in making 
 
Old Muckinaw. 
 
 73 
 
 mnplo sugar, and tlius cHoapcd. Fatigued and ex- 
 liausted, lie lay down on u mat and went to sleep, 
 and while in tliis condition he waH surprised by the 
 wife of Langlade, who remarked that the Indians 
 had killed all the English, but she hoped lie might 
 esca|)e. Fearing, however, that she would fall a 
 prey to their vengeance if it was found that an 
 Kiu'lishnmn was concealed in her house, she at 
 length revealed the place of Henry's concealment, 
 giving as a reason therefor, that if he should be 
 found her children would be destroyed. Unlocking 
 the door, she was followed by several Indians, who 
 were led by Wenniway, a noted chiel*. At sight of 
 him the chief seized him with one hand, and bran- 
 dishing a large carving knife, was about to plunge it 
 into his heart, when Ik^ dropped his arm, saying, "I 
 won't kill you. My brother, Musinigon, was slain 
 by the English, and you shall take his place and be 
 called after him." He was carried to L'Arbre Croche 
 as a prisoner, where he was rescued by a baud of 
 three hundred Ottawas, by whom he was returned 
 to Mackinaw, and finally ransomed by his Indian 
 friend Wawatam. At the capture of the place 
 only one trader, M. Tracy, lost his life. Captain 
 Etherington was carried away by some Indians from 
 the scene of slaughter. Seventy of the English 
 
74 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 troops were slain. An Englishman, by the name 
 of Solomon, saved himself by hiding under a heap 
 of corn, and his boy was saved by creeping up a 
 chimney, where he remained two days. A number 
 of canoes, filled with English traders, arriving soon 
 after the massacre, they were seized, and the tra- 
 ders, dragged through the water, were beaten and 
 marched by the Indians to the prison lodge. After 
 they had completed the work of destruction, the 
 Indians, about four hundred in number, entertain- 
 ing apprehensions that they would be attacked by 
 the English, and the Indians who had joined them, 
 took refuge on the Island of Mackinac, Wawatam 
 fearing that Henry would be butchered by the sa- 
 vages in their drunken revels, took him out to a cave, 
 where he lay concealed for one night on a heap of 
 human bones. As the Fort was not destroyed, it 
 was subsequently reoccupied by British soldiers, 
 and the removal to the Island did not take place 
 until about the year 1780. 
 
 Old Mackinaw, the theatre of so many thrilling 
 scenes and tragic incidents, has a history as a white 
 settlement, reaching back to 1620, the year of the 
 landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth. W. M. John- 
 son, Esq., of Mackinac Island, in describing its his- 
 tory, says: ''Mackinaw City," for such has become 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 75 
 
 the name of this wonderful point, " with its coasts and 
 the islands before it, has been the theatre of some of 
 the most exciting and interesting events in Indian 
 history, previous to the arrival of the ' white man.' 
 It was the metropolis of a portion of the Ojibwa and 
 Ottawa nations. It was there that their Congresses 
 met, to adopt a policy which terminated in the con- 
 quest of the country south of it ; it was there that 
 the tramping feet of thousands of plumed and 
 painted warriors shook Pe-quod-e-nonge — the In- 
 dian name — while dancing their war dances, it was 
 from thence that the startling sound of the war yell 
 of these thousands was wafted to the adjacent coast 
 and islands, making the peaceful welkin ring with 
 their unearthly shouts of victory or death. 
 
 "How remarkable, in reflecting upon the early 
 and sound judgment of the Indians in seizing upon 
 the points commanding all the natural avenues and 
 passes of the LaKes, when it is considered that 
 there selections must necessarily have been the 
 result of an intimate knowledge with the geogra- 
 phical features of the country ! This has been 
 yearly proved by the re-occupation of posts and 
 places long neglected, but the importance of which 
 has become evident in proportion as we have set a 
 just value upon the Indian's judgment, with the 
 
 N 
 
76 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 natural advantages of the country. Perhaps in no 
 instance, is this more strikingly exemplified than in 
 Mackinaw City, the commanding position of which, 
 although always known to the Indians, Traders, and 
 Missionaries, and lately confirmed by Military Sci- 
 entific Europeans; hut as yet not perceived hy our Go- 
 vernment. It is the only point which can control 
 the passage of the Straits of Mackinaw, and also 
 the Indians living in numerous villages south of the 
 Straits. The Island of Mackinac was merely occu- 
 pied by the English to escape a second massacre as 
 in 1763 ; and wbicli occupancy our Government has 
 blindly followed, believing it, as an evidence of 
 English military skill and judgment in the selec- 
 tion of commanding posts, while they at that period 
 did not make this selection with any reference to a 
 future hostile maritime power who might wish to 
 pass, or force a passage through the Straits. 
 
 " The land rises gradually from the water at 
 Mackinaw City, until it reaches an elevation of se- 
 venty-five feet, from which beautiful and picturesque 
 views are obtained of the waters of the Straits, with 
 the numerous Islands sleeping on its bosom. The 
 prospect from the City is beautiful, beyond descrip- 
 tion — the Battery at New York can only be com- 
 pared to it, which is like it in its location. The 
 

 SCO AR-LOAF— HACK INAC. 
 
 MACKINAC ISLAXU. 
 
 !. UTCr's Leap. '.'.Harbor 3. Vlliage. 4. Porf. 5. Signal. 6. Sugar Loaf. 
 I. Mission. «. Robinson s Kolly. 
 

 
 r 
 u 
 fi 
 
 o 
 
 q 
 
 b. 
 r( 
 
 CJ 
 
 St 
 
 tl 
 s\ 
 C 
 
 g' 
 
 C 
 
 Iv 
 
77 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 visitor will enjoy the view presented of the Islands, 
 Points, and adjacent shores; especially on a calm 
 day, for the lake, and the green woods upon isle 
 and promontory, lie with a sleepy stillness before 
 him, enhancing the beauty of the prospect ; and 
 when the mind contemplates the events of two 
 hundred and fifty years ago, when thousands of the 
 red sons of the forest passed and repassed the site 
 upon which he now stands, he will appreciate more 
 fully the rapid strides of civilization. 
 
 " Two hundred and fifty years ago, bark canoes 
 only dotted the surface of the Lake ; this spell of 
 quiet was then broken a few years afterward by the 
 boisterous Canadian Voyageur with his songs, as he 
 rowed or paddled his bateaux and large northwest 
 canoe. Now, the roaring noise of the wheels of 
 steamers, the shrill whistle of the propeller, and 
 the whitening sails of hundreds of vessels have 
 succeeded to the past age of darkness and quiet. 
 Civilization and commerce have broken the charm 
 which bfuutified Indian scenery in years forever 
 gone by." 
 
 A work, published under the auspices of the 
 Canadian Government, in three large octavo vo- 
 lumes, French, entitled " Kelations of the Jesuits," 
 containing the most remarkable events that tran- 
 
78 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 .vt< 
 
 spired in the missions of the Jesuits in New France, 
 furnishes valuable information of the missions in 
 the Mackinaw region. Among the remarkable phe- 
 nomena which came under the observation of the 
 Jesuit Fathers in Mackinaw, was the appearance of 
 a parhelion on the 21st of January, 1671. This 
 remarkable phenomenon occurred about two hours 
 before sunset. It presented the form of a great cres- 
 cent with its points turned toward the sun. At the 
 same time two other suns appeared, equidistant 
 from it, partly covered by a cloud having all the 
 colors of the rainbow, very luminous and dazzling 
 to the eye. The' Indians said it was a premonition 
 of great cold, which followed soon after. On the 
 16th March the same parhelion appeared, and was 
 seen from three different places more than fifty 
 leagues apart. The observer at the Mackinaw mis- 
 sion saw three suns distant some half league from 
 each other. They were seen twice the same day, 
 one hon v before sunrise and one hour before sunset. 
 In the morning they were on the south side of the 
 true sun, and in the evening on the west side. That 
 on the south side w;i>^ so accurate that it was difficult 
 to distinguish it from the irue sun, excepting that it 
 was partly surrounded by a scarlet band on the side 
 toward the sun. That on the other side had more 
 
Old Miickiiuiw. 
 
 79 
 
 the appearance of an oval iris than a sun, iieverthe- 
 lesa it was an imago like those which painters ailorn 
 with golden rays, giving it a very magnificent ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 The same parhelion was seen on the island of 
 Manitou in Lake Huron, and accompanied by a very 
 remarkable appearance. Three suns appeared in 
 the west, parallel with the earth. They were equal 
 in size, but not in beauty. The true sun was west- 
 by-southwest, and the false sun on each side. At 
 the same time were seen parts of two circles parallel 
 to the horizon, having the colors of the rainbow, be- 
 side a fourth part of the circle perpendicular to the 
 horizon, having nearly the same color, touched the 
 false sun, which was in the southwest, and cutting the 
 half circle parallel to the horizon, was mingled and 
 lost in its rays. The false suns disappeared from 
 time to time, and even the true sun. Finally, a 
 fourth sun was seen placed in a right line. "When 
 the false suns disappeared they left after them two 
 rainbows, as beautiful as their own light. The In- 
 dians, who attributed all these signs to the Genii, and 
 who believe that they are married, v/anted to know 
 of the missionary if these were not the wives of 
 the sun. At this question it occurred to him that a 
 favorable opportunity was presented for explaining 
 
8o 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 to them the mysteries of the Trinity. On the next 
 day the Indian women, who before would not come 
 to hear prayers, came and presented their children 
 to be baptized. 
 
 At the Saut St. Mary, seven false suns appeared 
 around the true sun. The true sun was in the centre 
 of a circle formed by the colors of the rainbow. On 
 either side were two false suns, and also one above 
 and one below. These four were placed on the cir- 
 cumference of the circle, and at equal distances di- 
 rectly opposite from each other. Beside this, another 
 circle of the same color as the first, but much larger, 
 rested the upper part of its circumference in the 
 centre of the true sun, while below and on either side 
 were the false suns. All these eight luminaries made 
 a grand spectacle. 
 
 Auroras, even in midsummer, are of frequent oc- 
 currence, and exhibit a brilliancy and extent rarely 
 observed in lower latitudes. The phenomena which 
 most frequently occur are the following; A dark 
 cloud tinged on the upper edge with a pale lumin- 
 ous haze, skirts the northern horizon. From this 
 streaks of orange and blue colored light flr.dh up, 
 and often reach a point south of the zenith. They 
 rapidly increase and decrease, giving to the whole 
 hemisphere the appearance of luminous waves and 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 8i 
 
 occasionally forming perfect corona. They eoni- 
 mencc shortly afti'. sunset and continue during the 
 night. The voyagers regard them as the precursors 
 of storms and gales, and our own observations have 
 confirmed the result. Occasionally broad belts of 
 lio-ht are seen spanning the whole arc of the heavens, 
 of sufficient brilliancy to enable one to read. In the 
 winter these phenomena are much more frequent, 
 and the ground appears tinged with a crimson hue. 
 
 We find in these relations of the Jesuits other 
 matters of equal interest. The fathers of the mis- 
 sions in and around the Straits of Mackinaw gave it 
 as their opinion, that the waters of Lake Superior 
 entered into the Straits by a subterranean passage, 
 and in support of it, mention the wonderful fact 
 that the current floats against the wind, and not- 
 withstanding it drives furiously in one direction, ves- 
 sels are enabled to sail in a contrary direction as 
 rapidly as though the wind were not blowing. In 
 addition to this, they refer to the constant boiling 
 up of the waters. Without admitting this theory, 
 they affirmed that it was impossible to explain two 
 things. The first is, that without such subterranean 
 passage it is impossible to tell what becomes of the 
 waters of Lake Superior. This vast lake has but 
 one visible outlet, namely, the river of the Saut, 
 
V 
 
 82 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 while it receives into its bosom the waters of a large 
 number of rivers, some twelve of which are of 
 greater dimensions than the Saut. What then, they 
 ask, becomes of all these waters if they do not find 
 an issue through a subterranean river. The second 
 reason for their belief in this theory is the impossi- 
 bility to explain from whence come the waters of 
 Lake Huron and Lake Michigan? But very few 
 rivers flow into these lakes, and their size is such as 
 to justify the belief that they must be supplied 
 through the subterranean river entering into the 
 Straits. 
 
 M 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Island of the Qiant FairioB — PosseBsion by the English — Erec- 
 tion of Government house — French remain at Old Mackinaw 
 — Finally abandonc ' — Extent of th*^ Island — History — De- 
 scription — Natural curiosities — / Rock -Sugar Loaf 
 Rook— Scull Rock— Dousman's Farm — Davenport's Farm- 
 Robinson's Folly— The Devil's Punch Rowl— Healthful at- 
 mosphere — Transparency of the waters — Compared with Sa- 
 ratoga, Cape May, and Mt. Washington as a point lor health 
 and recreation — Description of a traveler in 1854 — Arrival 
 of steamers and sailing vessels at the port during the year 
 Mr. Johnson's reminiscences — Indian name of Island— My- 
 thology — Three brothers of the groat Genii — Visit to the sub- 
 terranean abode of the Genii — Vision — Apostrophe of an old 
 Indian Chief— Old buildings — Door of Marquette's Chapel — 
 John Jacob Astor and the fur trade — Present support of the 
 place— Fort Mackinaw — Fort Holmes — Fine view — Interest- 
 ing localities— War of 1812— Death of Major Holmes— Soil 
 of the Island. 
 
 The old fort having been deserted by the English, 
 as we have noticed in a previous chapter, and they 
 having fled to the Island of Mackinaw, which, in the 
 
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84 
 
 Old Mackinaw 
 
 Indian n ime, signifies Island of the giant fairies, pre- 
 parations were made for a settlement. Sir Wm. 
 Johnston called a grand council with those Indian^ 
 who had been engaged in the massacre at Old Macki- 
 naw. By this council, which was held in 1764, the 
 spring following the siege, a way was opened for 
 St. Clair to negotiate for the island, and also for the 
 grants previously made by the Indians to the 
 French for military purposes. The first thing done 
 after the island had been obtained was the erection 
 of a government house. The French and others 
 who still remained at Old Mackinaw, amounting 
 only to about thrg^Jii^ndrejl, continued a few years, 
 when they finally left, and everything was suffered 
 to go into decay. A desolation reigned over it for 
 many years, and, on account of the bloody siege, that 
 point, which was the most attractive as well as the 
 most important to Indians, French, and English in 
 all the Lake region was, as if by common consent, 
 abandoned. 
 
 The "New Mackinaw," as it is called, distant seven 
 miles from the Old, is on an island about nine miles in 
 circumference, and covers an area of six thousand 
 acres. Its extreme elevation above the lake is about 
 three hundred and twelve feet. The village and for- 
 tress are situated on the southeastern extremity of 
 
ABCH ROCK. 
 
 ROCK CASTLE — PICTURED ROCKS. 
 
■«,!l 
 
 ni 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 85 
 
 the island, where there is a good harbor protected by 
 a water battery. The island remained in possession 
 of the British jintil 1793, when it was surrendered to 
 the United States.^ It was retaken in 1812, but re- 
 stored again by the treaty of Ghent, in 1814. It is sit- 
 uated in North lat. 45° 54', West Ion. 84° 80' from 
 (jreenwich, being 7° 30' west from Washington. It 
 is three hundred and fifty miles north of Chicago 
 and about three hundred miles north from Detroit, 
 and about two hundred and fifty miles west of Ool- 
 ' lings wood, Canada. The fort stands on an elevated 
 ground about two hundred feet above the water. 
 The town contains at present three hotels, six board- 
 ing houses, eight dry-goods stores, and seven groce- 
 ries. Its public buildings are a Court House, Jail, 
 Custom House, Post Office, and Express Office. 
 There are two Churches, the Roman Catholic and 
 Presbyterian. 
 
 The first thing we shall notice as a natural attrac- 
 tion on the island, is what is called "The Arch Rock." 
 This is a natural arch projecting from the precipice 
 on the northeastern side of the island, about a mile 
 from the fort, and elevated about one hundred and 
 forty feet above the level of the water. Its abut- 
 ments are formed of calcareous rock, and have been 
 produced by the falling down of great masses of 
 8 
 
 ^i 
 
86 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 •Mi 
 
 rock, leaving a chasm of eighty or ninety feet in 
 height, and covered by the arch which spans it of 
 fifty or sixty feet sweep. The scene presented by 
 cliff and chasm is one of wild grandeur. Like the 
 Natural Bridge of Virginia, it possesses an attraction 
 to all fond of natural curiosities, sufficient of itself 
 to justify a visit to the northern lakes. The view 
 from the beach is particularly grand. Before you is 
 a magnificent arch suspended in mid air. Indian 
 tradition says that this wonderful arch was formed 
 by the giant spirits who inhabited this island. Geo- 
 logical tradition, however, indicates that it was 
 formed by the action of the waters, which were at a 
 remote period much higher than at the present 
 time. 
 
 The next object which strikes the attention of the 
 visitors is the " Sugar Loaf Eock," a high, isolated, 
 conical rock which, resting upon the elevated pla- 
 teau that forms the next highest point of the island 
 from that of Fort Holmes, exhibits a rise of some 
 sixty to eighty feet. This is but little less than the 
 elevation of the ridge which forms the crowning 
 plan of the island, and upon which the dismantled 
 post of Fort Holmes is seen, being separated there- 
 from by a distance not exceeding one hundred and 
 fifty yards. By what violent throe of nature it 
 
 iiii.l! 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 87 
 
 has become severed from the adjacent ridge, of 
 which it no doubt, formed a part, is matter of curi- 
 ous inquiry. Has nature done this by gradual re- 
 cession, or by the slow upheaval of the land ? On 
 inspection, this rock is found cavernous, slightly 
 urystalline, with its strata distorted in every con- 
 ceivable direction. In its crevices grow a few ce- 
 dars and vines. As the visitor approaches it by the 
 road side its effect is grand and imposing; still 
 more so, perhaps, when beheld from the top of the 
 j'idge, where its isolated position with its bold form, 
 breaking the outline of the island, strikes the be- 
 holder with wonder and admiration. 
 
 Robinson's Folly is a high bluff', northeast from 
 the village of Mackinaw, half a mile from the mis- 
 sion house. Soon after the settlement of the modern 
 Mackinaw, Capt. Eobinson, of the English army, then 
 commanding this port, had a summer house built on 
 the brow of this bluff) now called Kobinson's Folly, 
 for the purpose of enjoying the prospect from that cool 
 and elevated spot. Often he and his brother officers 
 resorted there during the summer days, to while 
 away lonely and tedious hours. Pipes, cigars, and 
 wine, were brought into requisition. No Englishman 
 at that period was without them ; in fact, no hospi- 
 tality or entertainment was complete without them. 
 
tr"^" 
 
 88 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 They were indeed isolated ; the nearest white settle- 
 ments being then Detroit, Green Bay. Saut St. 
 Mary, and Chicago. Communications with these 
 places were not frequent. 
 
 A few years after, from the action of the elements, 
 the brow of the bluft', where Kobinson's Folly stood, 
 was precipitated to the base of the rock, where the 
 fragments can now be seen, which disastrous event 
 gave rise to its name. 
 
 The " Scull Rock," half a mile or three quarters 
 northwest from the rear of Fort Mackinaw, is chiefly 
 noted for a cavern, which appears to have been a 
 receptacle for human bones, many of which were 
 still to be observed about its mouth a few years ago. 
 The entrance is low and narrow, and seems to promise 
 little to reward the labors of exploration. It is 
 here probably that Alexander Henry was secreted by 
 the chief Wawatam after the horrid massacre of the 
 British garrison at Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Chimney Eock well repays the trouble of a visit, 
 with the other points of interest on the island. 
 
 Dousman's Farm, two miles west from the Village 
 of Mackinaw, consists of a section of land ; the road 
 to the English or British landing passes through 
 it, also to Scott*s or Flinn's Cave, which is on the 
 northwestern portion of the farm. There are three 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 89 
 
 springs of cold delicious water on this lUnn, two of 
 them are shaded by beech and maple trees. This 
 farm yields yearly from eighty to one hundred tons 
 of hay, besides a large quantity of potatoes and other 
 farm produce. 
 
 Davenport's Farm, about one and a half miles 
 from the village, is situated on the southwestern por- 
 tion of the Island. At the base of the bluff, on the 
 south part of this farm, is the Devil's Caves, and near 
 them is a beautiful spring of clear cold water,- shaded 
 by evergreens and other trees. Half way up the blufl; 
 which is nearly, if not fully, three hundred feet high 
 at this point ; stands out, detached from the lime- 
 stone, an isolated rock, in appearance similar to 
 the Sugar Loaf Rock, which some persons have 
 called the Lover's Leap ; it is worth the trouble of 
 a visit, which a few minutes walk from the vil- 
 lage accomplishes. There are several points called 
 Lover's Leap, so called by t-i: antic visitors, within 
 the last few years. A gentleman from Chicago, has 
 purchased this farm, and report says that several 
 summer-houses are to be built upon it, which will 
 enhance the beauty of this locality. 
 
 Wm. M. Johnston Esq., furnishes the following 
 tradition of Lover's Leap : 
 
 "The huge rock called the ' Lover's Leap' is situated 
 8* 
 
 ! , 
 
90 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 about one mile west of the village of Mackinaw. It 
 is a high perpendicular bluiT, one hundred and fifty 
 to two hundred feet in height, rising boldly from 
 the shore of the lake. A solitary pine tree formerl3i 
 stood upon its brow, which some Vandal has cut 
 down. 
 
 " Long before the pale faces profaned this island 
 home of the Genii, a young Ojibwa girl, just ma- 
 turing into womanhood, often wandered there, and 
 gazed from its dizzy heights and witnessed the re- 
 ceding canoes of the large war parties of the com- 
 bined bands of the Ojibwas and Ottawas speeding 
 south, seeking for fame and scalps. 
 
 " It was there she often sat, mused and hummed 
 the songs Ge-niw-e-gwon loved ; this spot was en- 
 deared to her, for it was there that she and Ge-niw- 
 e-gwon first met and exchanged words of love, and 
 found an affinity of souls existing between them. It 
 was there she often sat and sang the Ojibwa love 
 
 song — 
 
 ' Mong-e-do-gwaiu, iu-de-naiu-dum, 
 Mong-e-do-gwain, in-de-nain-dum, 
 Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, 
 Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, 
 A-nee-wau-wau-san-bo-a-zode, 
 A-nee- wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode. ' 
 
 I give but one verse, which may be translated as 
 follows : 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 A loou, I thought WRH looming, 
 
 A loon, I thought was looming : 
 
 Why ! it is he, my lovor. 
 
 Why ! it is he, my lover ; 
 
 His paddle, in the waters gloaming, 
 
 His paddle in the waters gleaming. 
 
 P 
 
 " From this bluff' she often watched and listened 
 for the return of the war parties, for amongst them 
 she knew was Ge-niw-e-gwon ; his head decorated with 
 war-eagle plumes, which none but a bravo could 
 sport. The west wind often wafted far in advance 
 the shouts of victory and death, as they shouted and 
 sang upon leaving Pe-quod-e-nong (Old Mackinaw), 
 to make the traverse to the Spirit, or Fairiy Is- 
 land. 
 
 " One season, when the war party returned, she 
 could not distinguish his familiar and loving war 
 shout. Her spirit, told her that he had gone to the 
 Spirit-Land of the west. It was so : an enemy's ar- 
 row had pierced ais breast, and after his body was 
 placed leaning against a tree, his face fronting his 
 enemies, he died ; but ere he died he wished the 
 mourning warriors to remember him to the sweet 
 maid of his heart. Thus he died far away from 
 home and the friends he loved. 
 
 '' Me-she-ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua's heart hushed its 
 
92 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 beating;^, unci ;»11 tlio wiinn emotions of tliat heart, 
 were chilled and dead. The moving, living spirit 
 of her beloved Oe-niw-c-g\von, she witnessed (joii- 
 tinually beckoning her to follow him to the happy 
 hunting grounds of spirits in the west — he appeart'd 
 to her in human shape, but was invisible to others 
 of his tribe. 
 
 " One morning her body was found mangled at the 
 foot of the bluff. The soul had thrown aside its 
 covering of earth, and had gone to join the spirit of 
 her beloved Ge-niw-e-gwon, to travel together to the 
 land of spirits." 
 
 Another point of interest and curiosity is the 
 Devil's Punch Bowl, situated south from the gate- 
 way, as you enter the farm of the late J. Dousmau, 
 Esq. 
 
 This Island which rises like a gem on the brow 
 of the lakes, is favored by the clearest and most health- 
 ful atmosphere, and washed by the purest and most 
 transparent water in the world, imparting the most 
 pleasurable sensations imaginable. When this en- 
 chanting region shall become fully known, Saratoga, 
 Cape May, and Mount Washington will be forgot- 
 ten by those who fly from the heat and dust of our 
 inland cities, to breathe a pure air and drink health- 
 giving waters. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 93 
 
 A traveler in I8r)4, thus clescribcs this intcrcHtin^ 
 locality, " Evorytliin;^- on tluj island is acuiriosity, tlio 
 roads or streets that wind around the liarbor or 
 r.tiiong the f^rovedike forests of tlu; island, are. na- 
 turally pebbled and macadamized, the buildings are 
 of every style, from an Indian lodge to an English 
 house, the isLand is covered with charming natural 
 scenery, from the beautiful to the grand, and one 
 may spend weeks constantly find lag new objects of 
 interest, and new scenes of beauty. The steamors 
 nil call here on their way to and from Chicago, and 
 hundreds of small sail vessels in the iishing trade 
 have here their head quarters. Drawn upon the 
 pebbled beach, or gliding about the bay, are bark 
 canoes, and the far-famed Mackinaw boats, without 
 number. These last are the perfection of light sail 
 boats, and I have often been astonished at seeing 
 them far out in the lake, beating up against winds 
 that were next to gales." 
 
 We are indebted to Mr. Johnston for the following 
 official list, giving the number of sail vessels and 
 steamers that have passed through the Straits of Mac- 
 kinaw during the day time, as reported to the Eeve- 
 nue department; for six months, ending September 
 80th, 1869. 
 
Nit 
 
 94 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Barques. Brigs. Solir's. Steamers. 
 
 April, 14 9 101 47 
 
 May 9 11 177 82 
 
 June, 15 18 221 194 
 
 Next 3 men's 98 61 764 353 
 
 136 94 1263 586 
 
 Total, 2079. 
 
 It would be a pretty correct estimate to add at 
 least one- third more of the total number for those 
 that passed during the night, — which would be a 
 very low estimate of the shipping passing through 
 our straits. 
 
 But few of the vessels passing through the straits 
 leave the main channel, and go to the island some 
 miles out of the way. 
 
 The lake traffic has of late years become per- 
 fectly enormous, the increase of the western naviga- 
 tion being unprecedented. For example, three 
 thousand and sixty-five steamers passed up from 
 Lake Erie to Lakes Huron and Superior, by Detroit, 
 in 1859, and three thousand one hundred and twenty- 
 one passed down. The greatest number up in a single 
 day was eighty -five — down seventy-three. Detroit 
 statistics show that five steamers, five propellers, 
 four barques, seven brigs, and eighty -five schooners 
 have been more or less engaged in the Lake Supe- 
 rior trade during the past season. Forty vessels left 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 95 
 
 during the season for European and seaboard ports, 
 some of which have I'eturned, and one has taken her 
 second departure. Navigation at Detroit opened 
 March 14th, and closed December 15th. 
 
 William Johnston, Esq., who has long resided on 
 the island, says: 'The Indians, from the earliest 
 times, have always regarded the Island of Mackinaw 
 with veneration. The Indian name is ' Moc-che-ne- 
 mock-e-nug-gonge,' which, as before stated, signifies 
 Island of Great or Giant Fairies. 
 
 " Indian mythology relates that three brothers of 
 great or ^iant Fairies, occupied different Islands in 
 this section of the country. The eldest occupied the Is- 
 land Missillimackinac, the second lived on the Island 
 Tim-au Ein-ange-onge, in Lake Michigan, now called 
 Pottawattime Island, the youngest inhabited an 
 Island called Pe-quoge-me-nis, in Lake Huron. The 
 heathen Indians, to this day, look upon them with 
 awe and veneration, and in passing to and fro, 
 by their shores, still offer to the Great Spirits to- 
 bacco and other offerings, to propitiate their good- 
 will. The stories they relate of these Great Fairies, 
 are very interesting and worthy of record. 
 
 "The present southern gate of Fort Mackinac 
 overlooks the spot, where in olden times a door ex- 
 isted, to the entrance of the subterraneous abode of 
 
 I I'i 
 
(/, 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 '1'. 
 
 m- 
 
 these Giant Fairies. An Indian Chees-a-kee, or 
 spiritualist, who once encamped within the limits of 
 the present garrison, related, that some time during 
 the night, after he had fallen asleep, a fairy touched 
 him and beckoned him to follow. He obeyed and 
 his spirit went with the fairy ; they entered the sub- 
 terraneous abode, through an opening beneath the 
 present gate near the base of the hill. He there 
 witnessed the giant spirits in solemn conclave in 
 what appeared to be a large beautiful wigwam. 
 After being there some time, lost in wonder and 
 admiration, the chief spirit directed one of the lesser 
 ones, to show the Indian spirit out and conduct him 
 back to his body. This Indian could never be in- 
 duced to divulge the particulars of what he witnessed 
 in his mysterious visit. , 
 
 An old Indian chief upon leaving this island, to 
 visit his friends in Lake Superior, thus soliloquized, 
 as he sat on the deck of McKnight's splendid steamer, 
 the Illinois, while the darkness began dimly to 
 shadow forth the deep blue outlines of the island : 
 
 " * Moc-che-ne-mock-e-nug-gonge, thou Isle of the 
 clear, deep-water Lake, how, soothing it is from amidst 
 the curling smoke of my opawgun (pipe), to trace thy 
 deep blue outlines in the distanc. ; to call from 
 memory's tablets the traditions and stories connected 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 97 
 
 with thy sacred and mystic character, how sacred 
 the regard, with which thou hast been once clothed 
 by our Indian seers of gone-by days ; how, pleasant 
 in imagination for the mind to picture and view, as 
 if now present, the time when the Great Spirit al- 
 lowed a peaceful stillness to dwell around thee, when 
 only light and balmy winds were permitted to pass 
 over thee, hardly ruffling the mirror surface of the 
 waters that surrounded thee. Nothing then dis- 
 turbed thy quiet and deep solitude, but the chip- 
 pering of birds, and the rustling of the leaves of the 
 silver-barked birch ; or to hear, by evening twilight 
 the sound of the giant Fairies as they with rapid 
 step, and giddy whirl, dance their mystic dance 
 on thy lime-stone battlements.' 
 
 "Several old buildings are now standing, the frames 
 of which were brought from old Mackinaw in the 
 year 1764, which gives an odd and venerable appear- 
 ance to the village. Mr. Schoolcraft had the door of 
 Marquette's Chapel pointed out to him, which had 
 been brought over from Mackinaw, and hung to 
 one of the edifices of the town. 
 
 " The village formely received its greatest support 
 from the fur trade, when in the hands of the late 
 John Jacob Astor, Esq., being, at that time, the out- 
 fitting and furnishing place for the Indian trade. His 
 9 
 
 ! r 
 
98 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1 1 
 
 outfits extended then to the head waters of the 
 Mississippi, on the northwest, south to Chicago, 
 southwest by the way of Green Bay, to the Mis- 
 sissippi, and Missouri Eivers, in fact his business was 
 carried on throughout all the then northwest Indian 
 country. This trade became extinct in 1834, when 
 Mr. Astor, sold out to Eamsey Crooks, Esq., of New 
 York, and others, but it lacked the energy and con- 
 trolling influence which had been characteristic of 
 Mr. Astor 's business, and after languishing a few 
 years, the new company became involved and their 
 outposts were discontinued. 
 
 " The place since then has been mostly supported 
 from the fisheries, which are excellent and exten- 
 sive. It is estimated that twenty thousand barrels 
 of white fish and trout are exported from this coun- 
 try alone annually, estimated worth, at this point, 
 about one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. A 
 material support is also derived from the immense 
 amount of trade. 
 
 " The population is fluctuating, owing to the influx 
 of strangers seeking health, traders, and Indians ; but 
 the permanent inhabitants of the village are about 
 one thousand and fourteen, as per census of 1854. 
 
 "Fort Mackinac stands on a rocky eminence im- 
 mediately above the town, and is at present gar- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 99 
 
 risoned by a company of United States troops : a 
 chaplain (Episcopalian) is attached to the garrison, 
 and services are held there every Sabbath. Fort 
 Holmes occupies the highest bluff* of the island, and 
 is not at present occupied : this fortress was erected 
 by the English, while they held possession of the 
 island, during the last war, and by them named 
 Fort George. But after the surrender of the island 
 in 1814, the name was altered in compliment to the 
 memory of Major Holmes of the United States Army, 
 who fell in the unfortunate attack upon the island 
 by Col. Croghan. The gallant Holmes was killed a 
 little below the rise of ground, as you descend to- 
 ward the Dousman farm-house, on your way to the 
 British landing. On Fort Holmes is a triangular 
 station for the government engineers, who have been 
 at work some years in the straits. 
 
 "Visitors mounting the station on a still clear day, 
 have a view of this island, the straits with its curves, 
 islands and points, and the adjacent shores, which 
 well repays them, especially on a calm day, for the 
 lake and green woods lie in stillness before them, 
 taking the mind for hundreds of years back, to the 
 time when thousands of warriors occupied the pro- 
 minent points brought within view. 
 
 " Off to the northwest, some four or five miles, lies 
 
 
 Jl 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 t: 
 
 
 : 1 
 
 t 
 
 1 • 
 
 ' \ 
 
 i I- 
 
 
 It' 
 
 ..-I I 
 
lOO 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 the mixed Canadian and Indian settlement of Point 
 St. Ignace and Moran Bay, with a few farms, which 
 give a more agreeable view to the otherwise same- 
 ness of wood and water. There the Indians, called 
 the Au-se-gum-ugs, lived until driven away by the 
 Ojibwas and Ottawas, as they extended their con- 
 quests south and west. There also the Iroquois 
 were permitted to locate and live before the French 
 reached and settled on the St. Lawrence, there 
 some of the Iroquois were massacred and driven off 
 by the Ojibwas and Ottawas. North of this can be 
 seen the outlines of the bluff called " Rabbit Sitting," 
 northeasterly the St. Martin Islands, the entrance 
 of the Chenoux, and the dividing ridge between this 
 and the Saut St. Mary. On the northeast can be 
 seen the Detour, and to the south, Bois Blanc Light- 
 House, and the Cheboy-e-gun ; and on the west the 
 Straits of Lake Michigan, with Waugoohance Point 
 and Light-House. 
 
 " To the northwest of the ridge, where the woods 
 slope by a gradual descent to the shores of the Island, 
 is the place at which the English in the last war 
 (1812), from six to eight hundred strong, composed 
 of a few English, Canadians, the majority being In- 
 dians, landed at night, and having secured Michael 
 Dousman's cattle, at his farm adjoining the landing, 
 
 i 'i^; 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 101 
 
 and succeeded during the night in reaching the hol- 
 low, which may be seen on the way from Fort 
 >[ackinac to Fort Holmes, a little northwest of the 
 present parade-ground, or nearly opposite the north- 
 west rear gate of the present fort, with their cannon, 
 which by daylight, was placed in battery on the 
 knoll south of the hollow before alluded to, which by 
 its position completely commanded the western gate 
 and the garrison itself, took their station. 
 
 ''At dawn the citizens of the village were roused, 
 and told to flee to a place called the Distillery, west 
 of the present village, as the English troops were 
 about to attack the American fort, and that the 
 English commanding officer had pledged his word for 
 the safety of the lives of those citizens who would 
 flee to the place designated. This was the first inti- 
 mation the citizens had of war being declared be- 
 tween the United States and Great Britain. Soon 
 a cannon shot was fired over the fort, its booming 
 being also the first intimation the American garri- 
 son had of the country being in a state of war. An 
 English officer appeared with a flag to summon the 
 garrison to surrender, stating the overwhelming 
 force they had in command. The American garri- 
 son, being short of one full company of men, was 
 surrendered, and the few troops taken and sent to 
 9^^ 
 
 ( . 
 
 1 
 
 1 -,■ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
102 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Detroit on parole. After this the English built and 
 occupied Fort George, (now called Fort Holmes) be- 
 tween the years 1812 and 1814. The English gov- 
 ernment paid ten thousand pounds as prize-money 
 to the volunteers and soldiers, and merchandise and 
 arms to the Indians. In the year 1836 I examined 
 the list or pay-roll for this prize-money ; the names 
 of all those who participated in the taking of Fort 
 Mackinac were there enrolled, the money was di; 
 vided according to rank, and each person receipted 
 for his individual share. 
 
 " It is worth knowing, that by the treaty of Paris, of 
 1783, acknowledging the independence of the United 
 States, and fixing its boundaries. Fort Mackinac 
 fell under the jurisdiction of the United States, and 
 was surrendered, according to McKenzie, in 1794. 
 In 1812 it was taken, as before stated, by the English 
 and their Indian allies. It resisted an attack from 
 a strong detachment of the American army and 
 navy in 1814, under Col. Croghan, and was finally 
 restored to the United States by the treaty of 
 Ghent. 
 
 "In 1814 Col. Croghan landed at the English Land- 
 ing, under cover of the guns of the American ves- 
 sels. The troops moved from the landing, and had 
 reached Mr. M. Dousman's farm-house. The skirm 
 
 y 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 >03 
 
 ishing with the English and Indians had already 
 commenced. East from the house is a ridge over 
 which the road lay. On this ridge and back of it, 
 also on each side of the road, the English were 
 posted in force. The gallant Major Holmes, on 
 reaching the clearing near the house, formed his 
 men for a charge upon the enemy posted on the 
 ridge. To encourage his troops he led the charge. 
 The English and Indians, seeing the strong force, 
 had commenced retreating, when an English ser- 
 geant thought he might as well discharge the cannon 
 before retreating with his comrades, so accordingly 
 applied the match. At this instant. Major Holmes 
 was either killed by a grape shot, or by an acciden- 
 tal musket ball. His death threw the Americans 
 into a panic, and they immediately commenced a 
 retreat, which ended in confusion. 
 
 " When the fleet first appeared before the island, 
 there was only one company of troops in the fort — 
 had Col. Croghan then summoned it to surrender, it 
 would have been given up; but he sailed away, 
 went and burnt the trading-houses at Old St. Jo- 
 seph's Island, and from thence sent an expedition to 
 the Saut St. Mary, under Major Holmes, who burned 
 the North West Fur Company Houses on the Canada 
 side, and carried away all the personal property of 
 
 ^ 
 
104 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 individuals on the American side. Thus ten or 
 twenty days were lost. In the mean time, the In- 
 dians had come to the defense of Fort Mackinac, 
 and, on the second appearance of Col. Croghan, 
 they were prepared, and our troops shamefully de- 
 feated. 
 
 " This island, although the blufts present the ap- 
 pearance of sterility, is covered with a strong soil, 
 which is continually renovated by the spontaneous 
 decomposition of calcareous rock. The common 
 growth of trees on the island are the sugar-maple, 
 beech, birch, white and yellow pine, white and red 
 spruce, balsam fir, white cedar, iron wood, and the 
 poplar ; the trees now seen are the second and third 
 growth. On the northwestern part of Mr. Dousman's 
 farm, a few of the old patriarchs of the forest are 
 still standing." 
 
CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 Lake Superior — Scenery — Transparency of its waters— Cli- 
 jjjate — Isle Royale — Apostles' Islands— La Point — Thunder 
 Cape — Cariboo Point — A wonderful lake— Romantic scenery 
 —Pictured Rocks — Rock Castle — The Grand Portal — The Cha- 
 pel—Fluctuations in the waters of Lake Superior — Curious 
 phenomena — Retrocession of the waters — Mirage — Iron 
 mountainsandmines— Description of— Products — Shipments 
 — Copper — Immense boulders — Produce of the mines for 
 1857— Shipment of copper from the Lake for 1858 — Centre 
 of the mining country — Iron Mountains — Copper mines of 
 Great Britain — Coal — Mackinaw, a great manufacturing point 
 — Key to the Upper Lakes — Commerce of Lakes — Growth 
 of cities. 
 
 Lake Superior, though it possesses not all the 
 vastness of the ocean, is yet equal in sublimity. In 
 gazing upon its surface, whether spread out like a 
 vast mirror reflecting the varying tints of the sky, 
 or ruffled by gently curling waves, or lashed into 
 fury by the tempest, one is impressed with the idea 
 of the Infinite. It is known to be the largest body 
 of fresh water on the globe, being nearly four hun- 
 dred miles long from east to west, and one hundred 
 
 (105) 
 
 :i 
 
 f ■ 
 
 i 1 
 
io6 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 and thirty wide. It is the grand reservoir from 
 whciioo proceed the waters of Mioliigan, Huron, and 
 Erie. It gives birth to Niagara, the wonder of thu 
 world, fills the basin of Ontario, and rolls a mighty 
 flood down the St. Lawrence to the Atlantic. 
 
 This lake lies in the bosom of a mountainous re- 
 gion, where the Indian yet reigns and roams in his 
 wonted freedom. Except an occasional picketed 
 fort or trading house, it ia yet a perfect wilderness. 
 The entire country is rocky and covered with a 
 stunted growth of vegetation such as is usual in 
 high latitudes. The waters of this lake are mar- 
 velously clear, and, even at midsummer, are exceed- 
 ingly cold. Mr. Charles Lanman, who has written a 
 most admirable book, entitled " Summer in the Wil 
 derness," says, " In passing along its rocky shores, 
 in my frail canoe, I have often been alarmed at the 
 sight of a sunken boulder, which I fancied must be 
 near the top, and on further investigation have 
 found myself to be upward of twenty feet from the 
 danger of a concussion. I have frequently lowered 
 a white rag to the depth of one hundred feet and 
 been able to discern its every fold or stain. The 
 color of the water near the shore is a deep green; 
 but off soundings it has all the dark blue of the 
 
 ocean. 
 
 ?j 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 107 
 
 ,uious re- 
 
 Speak iiig of the climntc, he says: "In midaum- 
 mcr it is beyoud compjiro, tlio uir is soft and bracing 
 at the pamc timf>. A healthier region docs not exist 
 on the eartli, an assertion corroborated by the fact, 
 that the inhabitants asually live to an advanced age, 
 notwithstanding the many hardships. The common 
 diseases of mankind are here comparatively unknown, 
 and I have never seen an individual whose breast 
 did not swell with a new emotion of delight as he 
 inhaled the air of this northern wilderness." ' 
 
 The largest island in Lake Superior is Isle Roy- 
 ale. It is forty miles in length and from six to ten 
 miles in width. Its hills reach an altitude of four hun- 
 dred feet. During the winter season it is entirely 
 uninhabited, but in the summer it is frequently 
 visited, particularly by copper speculators. Near 
 the western extremity of the lake are the Apostles' 
 Islands, which are detachments of a peninsula run- 
 ning out in the same direction with Keweenaw, 
 which is known as La Point. The group consist of 
 three islands, which rise like gems from the water. 
 There is a dreamy summer about them which make 
 them enticing as the Hesperides of the ancients. 
 
 The two most prominent peninsulas are Thunder 
 Cape and Cariboo Point. Thunder Cape is about 
 fourteen hundred feet high. It looms up against the 
 
.* 
 
 'I!'! ^ « 
 
 108 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ii;l; : 1 •! 
 
 iill 
 
 :| 
 
 ■ il'" 
 
 ■■,1/ 
 
 
 
 sky in grandeur, and is a most romantic spot. Ca- 
 riboo Point is less lofty and grand in its appearance, 
 but is celebrated for its unknown hieroglyphics 
 painted upon its summits by a race which has long 
 since passed away. In the vicinity of the bluff are 
 found the most beautiful agates in the world. 
 
 In the northeastern part of the lake is an island 
 situated about twenty miles from the Canadian 
 shore, which has a wonderful lake in its centre, 
 about one mile in length. It is as beautiful as it is 
 wonderful. It is imbosomed in the fastnesses of 
 perpendicular cliffs, which rise to a height of seven 
 hundred feet. It has but one outlet and is impass- 
 able even to a canoe. At the opening of this nar- 
 row chasm stands a column of solid rock which has 
 a base of about one hundred feet in diameter. The 
 column rises, gradually tapering until it reaches a 
 height of eight hundred feet. A solitary pine sur- 
 mounts the summit of this wonderful column. There 
 it stands like the sentinel of this calm, deep lake, 
 whose silence and solitude are rarely ever broken, 
 and whose tranquil bosom has never been ruffled by 
 the slightest breeze. 
 
 The scenery on the shores of Lake Superior is in 
 some places of the most romantic character. About 
 one hundred miles west of Saut St. Mary, a range 
 
pot. Ca- 
 
 pearance, 
 oglyphics 
 has long 
 bluff are 
 Id. 
 
 an island 
 Canadian 
 iS cenire, 
 il as it is 
 lesses of 
 of seven 
 3 impass- 
 this nar- 
 irhich has 
 er. The 
 caches a 
 
 pine sur- 
 1. There 
 3ep lake, 
 
 broken, 
 iffled by 
 
 •ior is in 
 About 
 
 a range 
 
 SOCK CHAPBL. 
 
 THE CASTLES. 
 

 
 ^l;'-' 
 
 i'lpl ' ' 
 
 i ' 
 
 nil I ill' 
 
 i m^ 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 109 
 
 of cliffs are to be seen, what has been called the " Pic- 
 tured Eocks." They are a series of sandstone bluffs 
 extending along the shore of the lake for about five 
 miles, and rising, in most places vertically from the 
 water, from fifty to two hundred feet in height. 
 These towering cliffs have been worn away by the 
 action of the lake, which for centuries has dashed 
 an ocean-like surf against their base. The surface 
 of these rocks has been, in large portions, strangely 
 colored by bands of brilliant hues, which present to 
 the eye of the voyager a singularly pleasing appear- 
 ance. One of these cliffs resembles so much the 
 turreted entrance and arched portal of some old feu- 
 dal castle that it has been called "Eock Castle." 
 Beyond this is another architectural curiosity, deno- 
 minated " The Grand Portal," which consists of an 
 arched opening in the rocks. The cliff is composed of 
 a vast mass, of a rectilinear shape, projecting out into 
 the lake six hundred feet, and presenting a front of 
 three hundred feet, and rising to a height of two 
 hundred feet. An entrance has been excavated from 
 one side to the other, opening out into large vaulted 
 passages which communicate with the great dome, 
 some three hundred feet from the front of the cliff. 
 The Grand Portal, which opens out on the lake, is 
 of magnificent dimensions, being one hundred feet 
 10 
 
 j.\.. 'I 
 
 I i 
 
 i ! 
 
 I 
 

 mm. 
 
 § 
 
 mm 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 1 1 
 
 
 
 no 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 high, and one hundred and sixty-eight feet wide 
 at the water level. The distance from the verge 
 of the cliff, over the arch to the water, is one him- 
 dred and thirty-three feet, leaving three feet for the 
 thickness of the rock above the arch itself The ex- 
 treme height of the cliff is about fifty feet more, 
 makiuj^j in all one hundred and eighty -three feet. It 
 is impossible, adequately, to describe this wonderful 
 scene. The vast dimensions of the cavern, the 
 vaulted passages, the rare combination of colors, the 
 varied effects of the light as it streams through the 
 great arch and falls on the different objects; the 
 deep, emerald green of the water, the unvarying 
 swell of the lake, keeping up a succession of musi- 
 cal echoes ; the reverberation of one's voice coming 
 back with startling effect, must all be seen and heard 
 to be fully appreciated. 
 
 Not far from this point is " The chapel" of the voy- 
 agers which nature has cut out of the cliff thirty or 
 forty feet above the lake. The interior consists of a 
 spacious vaulted apartment. An arched roof from 
 ten to twenty feet in thickness rests on four gigantic 
 columns of rock. These columns consist of ^ne\y 
 stratified rock, and have been worn into curious 
 shapes. At the base of one of these pillars an 
 arched cavity or niche has been cut, access to which 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Ill 
 
 is had by a flight of steps formed by the project- 
 int' strata. The arrangement of the whole resembles 
 very much the pulpit of a church, while the arched 
 canopy in front, opening out to the voluted interior, 
 with a flat tabular mass rising to a convenient height 
 for a desk, and an isolated block resembling an altar, 
 all fashioned as appropriately as if formed by the 
 hand of man, constantly impresses one that he is 
 within the walls of a church. 
 
 In the Geological Eeport, made by Foster and 
 Whitney, to Congress, we find the following remark : 
 " It is a matter of surprise, that so far as we know, 
 none of our artists, have visited this region, and 
 given to the world representations of scenery, 
 so striking and so different from any which can be 
 found elsewhere. We can hardly conceive of any 
 thing more worthy of the artist's pencil, and if the 
 tide of pleasure-travel should once be turned in this 
 direction, it seems not unreasonable to suppose, that 
 a fashionable hotel may yet be built under the 
 shade of the pine groves near the chapel, and a 
 trip thither become as common as one to Niagara 
 now is." 
 
 Beyond the grand portal, the rock, being less 
 exposed to the force of the waves, bears fewer marks 
 of their destructive action. The entrance to Chapel 
 
 !| 
 
 
 t 
 
112 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 I plilljllilliii!! 
 
 
 river is at the most easterly extremity of a sandy 
 beach, which extends for a quarter of a mile, and 
 affords a convenient landing place, while the drift 
 terrace elevated about thirty feet above the level of 
 the lake, being an open pine plain, affords ex- 
 cellent camping ground, and is the most central and 
 convenient spot for the traveler to pitch his tent, 
 while he examines the most interesting localities in 
 the series which occur in the vicinity, particularly 
 the Castle and the Chapel. 
 
 One who had resided upon the shores of Lake 
 Superior for several summers says, " Our attention 
 has been directed to the fluctuations in the level of 
 its waters, and while we have failed to detect any 
 ebb and flow corresponding with the tidal action, we 
 have on the other hand noticed certain extraordi- 
 nary swells, which appear to be independent of the 
 action of the sun and moon." The Jesuit Fathers in 
 1670-1, had their attention called to these extraordi- 
 nary swells. In their " Eelatibns," they say, " We 
 found at one time the motion of the waters to be re- 
 gular and at others extremely fluctuating. We have 
 noticed however, that at full moon and new moon, 
 the tides change once a day for eight or ten days, 
 while during the remainder of the time there is 
 hardly any change perceptible. The currents set 
 
 'I'ii:! 
 
 t ,1 • '■ 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 "3 
 
 almost invariably in one direction, namely toward 
 Lake Michigan, and they almost invariably set against 
 the wind, sometimes with great force." 
 
 Mackenzie who wrote in 1789, relates a very 
 curious phenomenon, which occurred at Grand Port- 
 age, on Lake Superior, and for which no obvious 
 cause could be assigned. He says, " the water with- 
 drew, leaving the ground dry, which had never be- 
 fore been visible, the fall being equal to four per- 
 pendicular feet, and rushing back with great velo- 
 city above the common mark. It continued thus 
 rising and falling for several hours, gradually increa- 
 sing until it stopped at its usual height." 
 
 Professor Mather, who observed the barometer 
 at Copper Harbor during the prevalence of one of 
 these fluctuations, remarks, "As a general thing, 
 fluctuations in the barometer accompanied the fluc- 
 tuations in the level of the water, but sometimes the 
 water level varied rapidly in the harbor, while no 
 such variations occurred in the barometer at the 
 place of observation. The variations in the level of 
 the water may be caused by varied barometric pres- 
 sure of the air on the water, either at the place of 
 observation or at some distant points. A local in- 
 creased pressure of the atmosphere at the place of 
 observation would lower the water level, where 
 10^* 
 
 It 
 
 I , ! 
 
 ! ■• Hi 
 
 « 
 
 an 
 
i II 
 
 /jl! - 
 
 li. 
 
 114 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 there is a wide expanse of water ; or a diminished 
 pressure, under the same circumstances, would cause 
 the water to rise above its usual level." 
 
 In the summer of 1884, according to the report 
 of Foster and Whitney, made to Congress, in 1850, 
 an extraordinary retrocession of the waters took 
 place at Saut St. Mary. The river here is nearly a 
 mile in width, and the depth of the water over the 
 sandstone rapids is about two and a half feet. The 
 phenomenon occurred at noon. The day was calm 
 but cloudy ; the water retired suddenly, leaving the 
 bed of the river bare, except for the distance of 
 about twenty rods where the channel is deepest, and 
 remained so for the space of an hour. Persons went 
 out and caught fish in the pools formed in the rocky 
 cavities. The return of the waters was sudden and 
 presented a sublime spectacle. They came down like 
 an immense surge, roaring and foaming, and those 
 who had incautiously wandered into the river bed, 
 had barely time to escape being overwhelmed. A 
 similar event occurred in 1842, when the current 
 set back from the rapids, and the water rose upward 
 of two feet above the usual mark. 
 
 In 1846, Foster and Whitney, while coasting in 
 an open boat between Copper Harbor and Eagle 
 Biver, observed the water rise up, at a distance of a 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 »»5 
 
 fourth of a mile to the northwest, to the height of 
 twenty feet. It curled over like ?n immense surge, 
 crested with foam and swept tow»,.d the shore. It 
 was succeeded by two or three swells of less mag- 
 nitude, when the lake resumed its former tranquillity. 
 At the same time the mirage was beautifully dis- 
 played, and imaginary islands were seen along the 
 horizon. In 1849, they witnessed at Eock Harbor, 
 Isle Eoyale, the ebbing and flowing of the water, 
 recurring at intervals of fifteen or twenty minutes, 
 during the entire afternoon. 
 
 The difference between the temperature of the air 
 and the lake, gives rise to a variety of optical illu- 
 sions known as mirage. Mountains are seen with 
 inverted cones, headlands project from the shore 
 where none exist. Islands clothed with verdure or 
 girt with clifife rise up from the bosom of the lake. 
 On approaching Keweenaw Point, Mount Houghton, 
 is the first object to greet the eye of the mariner. 
 In peculiar stages of the atmosphere, its summit is 
 seen inverted in the sky long before the mountain it- 
 self is visible. On the north shore the Paps, two ele- 
 vated mountains near the entrance of Neepigon Bay, 
 at one time appear like hour glasses, and at another 
 like craters, emitting long columns of smoke, which 
 gradually settles around their cones. 
 
ii6 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 1 ' ..*i' 
 
 i 1' ;•:■■' 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 I' 
 
 1 
 
 iliiliitiMii 
 
 The mines and minerals of the northwest consti- 
 tute the most striking feature of the country, and at 
 the present time one of the groat sources of its wealth. 
 The centre of the mining country is called the Supe- 
 rior country, or the northern peninsula of Michigan, 
 but there is no reason to believe it is confined to this 
 region. Coal and iron, the most valuable of all mine- 
 rals are found in various places in the northwest. The 
 principal and most valuable minerals found west 
 of Mackinaw, are iron, copper, and lead. A gene- 
 ral view of the mineral region may be found in 
 Owen's Geological Survey oj" Iowa, Wisconsin, Min- 
 nesota, and Superior. Great beds of iron are found 
 in ridges or cliffs, some of which rise up to an im- 
 mense height. Some of these ore-beds of Lake Super- 
 ior are fifteen feet in thickness, and one of them con- 
 tains iron enough to supply the world for ages. 
 Above them are immense forests, suitable for char- 
 coal. 
 
 The discovery of the iron mountains and mines 
 of Lake Superior was made in 1846, but they were 
 not fully developed until the year 1855, when the 
 ship canal at Saut St. Mary was completed. The 
 mines are from three to sixteen miles from Mar- 
 quette, a thriving village of upward of one thousand 
 inhabitants, overlooking the lake, about one hundred 
 
Old Mackin;^^. 
 
 117 
 
 and forty miles above the Saut. The tnme ne m 
 the lake is about two and a half miles distant om 
 Marquette, and bears the name of Eureka. Th» om 
 is said to be of surpassing richness, and yields an 
 iron of the best quality, adapted to cutlery. The Jack- 
 son iron mountain, and the Cleveland iron moun- 
 tain, are fourteen and sixteen miles distant. They 
 send to Marquette an aggregate of one thousand tons 
 per week. These mountains rise gradually to the 
 height of six or seven hundred feet, and are a solid 
 mass of iron ore, yielding from 50 to 60 per "cent, of 
 the best iron. The New England iron mountain is 
 two and a half miles beyond the Cleveland moun- 
 tain, and abounds with ore of equal richness. A 
 mile or two further is the Burt mountain, and the 
 same may be said of this, both as it regards quantity 
 and quality, as of the others. A railroad has been 
 constructed from Marquette to the iron regions, and 
 immense quantities of ore and iron are transported 
 over it daily. 
 
 All the hills and mountains surrounding Lake 
 Superior, abound in valuable minerals of which cop- 
 per is the most abundant. It exists in every variety 
 of form. According to the opinion of the lamented 
 Houghton, this region contains the most extensive 
 copper mines in the known world. The native cop- 
 
u8 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 illfeivv , 
 
 ■Mi ■ 
 
 t'li ■ ; 
 
 fii ■ ■ 
 
 per boulder discovered by the traveler Henry in 
 the bed of the Ontonagon river, and now in Wash- 
 ington, originally weighed thirty-eight hundred 
 pounds. A copper mass of the same material, found 
 near Copper Harbor, weighed twelve hundred 
 pounds. At Copper Falls, there is a vein of solid 
 ore which measures nine feet in depth, and seven 
 and a half inches in thickness. At Eagle river a 
 boulder was found weighing seventeen hundred 
 pounds. The number of mining companies in opera- 
 tion on the American shore is upward of a hundred. 
 
 The Minnesota mine, fifteen miles from Ontonagon, 
 during the year ending January 1, 1867, produced 
 8,718,403 pounds of copper. The Cliff mine during 
 the year, produced 8,291,229 pounds of copper. The 
 Portage Lake District, including Isle Boyale, Por- 
 tage, Huron, Quincy and Pewabic shipped 539 tons 
 of copper in 1857. 
 
 The Lake Superior miners estimate the total ship- 
 ment of copper mineral from the lake during the 
 year 1858, at 6,008 tons, of an average purity of 67 
 per cent — making the product of ingot copper about 
 4,000 tons, worth in the market at present $1,840,000. 
 Estimating the population of the copper region ^t 
 6,500 persons, this gives an annual product of about 
 $280 for each man, woman and child. The ship- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 119 
 
 ments were as follows: From Keweenaw Point 
 2,180 tons; from Portage Lake 1,162 tons; from 
 Ontonagon District 2,676 tons ; total 6,008 tons. 
 
 The extent and importance of the copper mines 
 of Superior, in relation to the general trade in that 
 metal, may be estimated by the following account of 
 the amount of pure copper produced in other parts 
 of the world. The United Kingdom of Great Bri- 
 tian 14,466 tons, Norway 7,200 tons, Eussia 4,000, 
 Mexico 600, Hesse Cassel 600, Hartz Mountains 212, 
 Sweden 2,000, Hungary 2,000, East Germany 443 ; 
 making a total, out of America, of 80,820 tons. The 
 single District of Ontonagon can produce as much 
 copper as the entire Kingdom of Great Britain. The 
 copper mines of the United States, are doing their 
 part as effectually in adding to the solid wealth of 
 the country, as the gold mines of California, or the 
 silver mines of the Arizonia. The copper mining 
 countries are another illustration of the principle 
 upon which success is based, namely, that concen- 
 trated talent, effort and capital are necessary to a 
 development of the resources of a country. 
 
 When we look into the manufacture of this arti- 
 cle, we shall find a new element in the future growth 
 of towns to arise in this region. At present, a large 
 portion of this copper is shipped abroad to be smelted. 
 
120 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 p 
 
 ; 1' 
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 i 
 
 1 :i| 
 
 
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 ■ \ 
 
 ijiilif i 
 
 
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 .1 
 
 1 tin mi X. 
 
 
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 iiiillil. 
 
 
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 "•''P 
 
 t!\U:«n:, 
 
 
 Jjii. 
 
 iHl'P'' 
 
 iMIi 
 
 ■i'ii ; 
 
 But is there not every reason, as well of economy as 
 of material, for carrying on smelting, and all other 
 manufacturing processes, at the point of production ? 
 The cost of transporting the raw material is greater 
 than that of carrying the manufactured product. 
 But when all the elements of successful manufactur- 
 ing exist where the raw material is found, then the 
 economy of the process is doubled. Of metals, of 
 navigation, of food, we have shown there is an inex- 
 haustible supply. But there is also coal near enough 
 to supply the last and only material which might be 
 supposed wanting. Coal is found in the Southern 
 Peninsula of Michigan, in abundance and of good 
 quality. This coal is found at Jackson and at Lan- 
 sing. This was a matter of so much importance 
 that Prof. Douglas, of the State University, pro- 
 ceeded immediately to analyze it. 
 
 The following are the principal results of his 
 analysis. It was made chiefly in reference to the 
 manufacture of gas : — 
 
 " The coal was of the bituminous variety, having 
 a jet black color and slaty structure. It was readily 
 ignited, burning with a dull flame and smoke, the 
 fragments comminuting more or less by the heat. 
 It had a specific gravity of about 1.25. 
 
 100 parts gave violatile matter 50.780, sulphur 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 121 
 
 4.028, iron 4.400, ash 8.400, carbon (not volatilized) 
 41.600. 
 
 The value of coal for the manufacture of gas is 
 usually estimated by the amount of volatile matter 
 it yields at a full red-heat." 
 
 Of ten samples of English coal, this had more 
 volatile matter than six. Of American coals, it had 
 more of the burning principle than any, except one. 
 The quality of this coal is unquestionably good, and 
 its distance from Mackinaw is no objection, since ac- 
 cess can be obtained both by water and railroad. 
 Both the coal and iron used in the manu&ctures of 
 Cincinnati are brought from places distant from one 
 hundred to five hundred miles; and yet scarcely 
 any place in America has prospered more by manu- 
 factures than the Queen of the West. Mackinaw 
 has more than the advantages of Cincinnati for ma- 
 nufactures. It not only has iron and coal, but cop- 
 per and lead, near enough for all the purposes of 
 successful manufacture. Favorable indications of 
 (^oal exist within fifty miles south of the Straits, and 
 indications also exist of lead. When we consider 
 these facts, and the vast extent of country, of inland 
 oceans, and of streams around it, why should not 
 Mackinaw be a point of concentration for manufac- 
 tures, as well as of distribution for commerce ? 
 11 
 
122 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 liiif^" 
 
 m- 
 
 
 ' iiirv 
 
 ' Mackinaw is centrally situated in the mineral re- 
 gion, and with coal and hard wood for charcoal in 
 perpetual abundance, and the cheapest possible mode 
 of transportation, will become a great manufacturing 
 point, and be able to manufacture innumerable ar- 
 ticles, which are now made in Europe, and which 
 our people have beer^ compelled to import for use, 
 simply because the material hitherto employed has 
 been of a quality unsuitable for such purposes. Be- 
 sides the healthful and bracing temperature of this 
 locality, when compared with Ohio and Pennsyl- 
 vania, whose summers are found to be exceedingly 
 enervating, especially to those employed in the 
 manufacture of iron, aftbrds advantages, and offers 
 inducements which cannot be overlooked, since in 
 the physical strength and comfort of the workmen, 
 is involved the all-important question of economy. 
 If it should be asked, is the site such that a great 
 city can be built upon it, without imperial wealth, 
 like to that of St. Petersburg, or with the artificial 
 foundations like to those of Chicago, or bankrupting 
 successive companies like Cairo on the Ohio, — the 
 answer is at hand and decisive. At Mackinaw there 
 are no marshes to fill up or drain, no tide sands, no 
 flood- washed banks, no narrow and isolated rocks or 
 Tidges, to intercept the progress of commercial 
 
 ^'iiii; 
 
 1 I':.:' 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 123 
 
 crrowth and activity. On the contrary, the lake 
 rises under the heaviest rains but little, and breaks 
 its waves on a dry shore rising gradually far above 
 its level. There is no better natural site for the 
 foundation of a city in the world, nor one possessing 
 more inviting or beautiful surroundings, and when 
 we consider its available resources, it is evident that 
 nothing can prevent its rise and progress. The 
 straits are so completely the key of the Upper Lakes, 
 Mackinaw must, as in the days of the fur trade, un- 
 lock the vast treasures of the entire northwest. The 
 shore of Lake Superior, being but about fifty miles 
 north of Mackinaw and dependent on a canal 
 navigation, annually navigable sixty days less than 
 the straits, on account of ice, to say nothing of break- 
 age, it is perfectly obvious that there can be no com- 
 peting city further north. 
 
 The following from the Toledo Blade shows the 
 immense importance of this point as a key position : 
 
 " The immense commerce of the lakes, the growth 
 of which has been unparalleled by anything in the 
 the history of the world, and the vast mineral, timber 
 and agricultural resources of their shores, which are 
 even now, only beginning to attract attention, may 
 well awaken a desire on the part of enterprise to get 
 possession of the key position which is to command 
 
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124 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 
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 and unlock the future treasures of this vast empire. 
 Already, six important commercial cities, with an ag- 
 gregate population of about 350,000 inhabitants, 
 have sprung up on these island waters, and are the 
 most flourishing of any away from the Atlantic coast. 
 Others are struggling into notoriety on the borders 
 of Lake Superior, and must, at no very distant time, 
 become important and active places of business. But 
 the place of all others, where we would expect a citj 
 to spring up and grow rapidly into importance, is 
 stiU undeveloped. 
 
 " The Straits of Mackinaw, four and a half miles 
 wide, make the only natural ferry communication 
 between the great peninsula, enclosed by the lakes 
 and the rich mineral region lying on the southern bor- 
 der of Lake Superior ; and must, hence, be the ter- 
 minus of all the great railroad lines that traverse 
 Michigan longitudinally and compete for the trade 
 north of the straits, now rapidly growing up into im- 
 portance. It must therefore be the point of radiation, 
 eastward, through Canada; westward through the 
 mineral region ; and southward, through Michigan. 
 Canada has already made grants of land for several 
 important roads which must ultimately reach the 
 straits ; and lines are also provided for by govern- 
 ment grants, from the straits through the Northern 
 Peninsula, and from the straits southward to Fort 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 12 
 
 
 Wayne by the way of Grand Rapids, and to Toledo, 
 through Lansing. The culminating point being thus 
 settled for several roads, all others will naturally 
 centre at the same crossing, even if the coast line had 
 not made such a thing inevitable. 
 
 " The point which projects northward into the lake, 
 from the Michigan Peninsula, to form this strait, is 
 admirably located for a great city. It is the site of 
 old Fort Mackinaw, and in health and commercial 
 position, can have no rival in those southern waters. 
 This point has been selected by a company of capi- 
 talists, on which to plant the commercial city of the 
 north ; the Venice of the Lakes, foreshadowed in the 
 extract which we have placed at the head of the arti- 
 cle. This new city is to bear the name of the an- 
 cient fort and strait, and to be called Mackinaw. It 
 will hold the key of all the northern lakes; and 
 should its growth be marked by energy and enter- 
 prise, will command the trade of the greatest mining 
 region in the world ; be the chief depot of the north- 
 ern fisheries; the outlet of an immense lumber 
 trade ; and the focus of a great network of railways, 
 communicating with tropics on the south, and stretch- 
 ing out its iron arms, at no distant day, to the Atlantic 
 on the east, and Pacific on the west. 
 
 The proposed city will have the advantage of the 
 11* 
 
126 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ! 
 i 
 1 
 
 ! 
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 1 
 
 ■i 
 
 il!li!t;:'.:,'- 
 
 most salubrious climate to be found in the temperate 
 zone, and will be the resort of those seeking health, 
 as well as those seeking wealth. It has a northern 
 position, being on the same parallel as Montreal; 
 but the winters are equable, and the summers 
 though short, are mild and pleasant, being modi- 
 fied by the great body of water which stretches 
 out on every side, except at the south. As a manu- 
 facturing point it may well command universal at- 
 tention. The Lake Superior iron is known to be the 
 best in the world, and coal and wood are at hand in 
 the greatest abundance; while communication by 
 water is so wide as to leave nothing to desire on that 
 head. It should be as famous for smelting as Swan- 
 sea, in England, for it must have unbounded supplies 
 of iron and copper ore. 
 
 " But we have no space to speak of its commercial 
 position. It must be seen at a glance that, as all the 
 produce w^hich flows through Chicago, Milwaukee, 
 and the great West must sweep by on its way to the 
 East, and all the goods and merchandise of the East, 
 must be borne by its wharves on their way to the 
 West, that it cannot fail to be a point which must 
 spring at once into importance. The government, 
 too, must have a fort, a light-house, and custom- 
 house there, which with the fisheries, must supply a 
 large profitable business to its earlier population." 
 
 iiii 
 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Lake Huron— Kaatern shore of Miohip;an — Pace of the country 
 — Picturesque view — Rivers — Grand — Saginaw — Cheboy-e- 
 gun — Natural Hcenery — Fort Qratiot — White Rock — Saginaw 
 Bay— Thunder Bay — Bois Blanc Island — Drummond's Island 
 — British Troops — St. Helena Island — Iroquois Woman's 
 Point— Point La Barbe— Point aux Sable— Point St. Vital- 
 Wreck of the Queen City — St. Martinis Island — Fox Point 
 — Moneto pa-maw — Mille au Coquln — Great fishing places — 
 Cross Village — Catholic Convent. 
 
 Lake Huron, which, with Lake Erie and St. 
 Clair, washes the eastern boundary of the southern 
 peninsula of Michigan, is two h^indred and fifty 
 miles long and its average width is about one hun- 
 dred miles. Its depth is about eight hundred feet. 
 The southeastern shore of Michigan presents a level 
 surface covered with a dense forest, at points meet- 
 ing the edge of the bank. The trees of this heavily- 
 timbered land, with their massive shafts standing 
 close together, "cast a gloomy grandeur over the 
 scene, and when stripped of their foliage appear like 
 
 (127) 
 
 II 
 
]28 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
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 iii;ii. 
 
 the black colonnade of a sylvan temple." In advanc- 
 ing into the interior, a picturesque and rolling coun- 
 try opens to view, covered with oak-openings or 
 groves of white oak thinly scattered over the ground, 
 having the appearance of stately parks. The appear- 
 ance of the surface of the country is as if it was 
 covered with mounds, arranged without order, some- 
 times rising from thirty to two hundred feet in 
 height, producing a delightful alternation of hill and 
 dalC; which is sometimes varied by a rich prairie or 
 burr-oak grove. 
 
 The principal rivers of the State are the Grand, 
 St. Joseph's, Kalamazoo, the Eaisin, the Clinton, the 
 Huron, and the Eouge. The Grand is two hundred 
 and seventy miles in length, and has a free naviga- 
 tion for steamboats which ply regularly between 
 Lake Michigan and Grand Bapids, a distance of 
 forty miles. The Saginaw empties into Lake Huron 
 and is navigable for sixty miles. These, with the 
 others we have named, interlock their branches run- 
 ning through different parts of southern Michigan, 
 and while they beautify the landscape they afford 
 water-r ower and fertilize the soil. 
 
 The river Cheboy-e-gun is the largest stream in 
 the northern portion of the lower peninsula and 
 empties into the Straits of Mackinaw opposite Bois 
 
 m 
 
 I iliHi 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 129 
 
 Blanc Island. At its mouth is a village containing 
 two steam saw mills and one water saw mill. A 
 licrht-liouse stands a mile or two east from this point. 
 Brook-trout, bass, pike, pickerel, and perch, are 
 caught at the entrance of the river. In the fall and 
 spring numerous water-fowl resort to the upper forks 
 of the river and to the small lakes forming its 
 sources. These lakes also abound with a great 
 varioty of fish, which can be taken by spearing. 
 
 The natural scenery of Michigan is imposing. The 
 extensive tracts of dense forests, clothed with the 
 richest verdure, fresh as when it first came from the 
 hands of the Creator ; the prairies and lakes which 
 abound, the wide parks, whose soil is entirely cov- 
 ered for miles with large and rich flowers, present 
 a striking and agreeable contrast. The beech and 
 black walnut, the elm, the maple, the hickory, and 
 the oaks of different species and large size, the lind 
 and the bass-wood, and various other kinds of forest 
 trees, plainly indicate the fertility of the soil from 
 whence they spring. Grape vines often hang from 
 the branches a foot in circumference, clustering 
 around their trunks, or thickening the undergrowth 
 along the banks of rivers; and, while the glades 
 open to the sun like cultivated grounds, the more 
 thickly-timbered forests, shut out from the sky by 
 

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 130 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 the mass of vegetation, present in summer a gloomy 
 twilight. 
 
 In traveling along the main roads of Michigan, 
 splendid tracts of park-like lawns sweep along the 
 path for miles covered with flowers, broken by 
 prairies, thick forests, and lakes. 
 
 Fort Gratiot stands at the foot of Lake Huron and 
 commands the entrance to the upper lakes. Ad- 
 vancing along the western shore of this lake the 
 voyager sees a long, alluvial bank covered with a 
 forest of pine, poplar, beech, and hemlock. 
 
 On advancing further the banks become more ele- 
 vated until they rise to forty feet in height. About 
 fifty miles from Fort Gratiot, a large rock rises to 
 the surface of the lake, a mile or so from the shore, 
 which is called the *' White Eock." From the ear- 
 liest period this rock has been regarded as an altar 
 or a landmark. It was to the early voyagers a bea- 
 con to guide them in their course ; but to the In- 
 dians it was a place of oblation, where they offered 
 sacrifices to the spirits of the lakes. 
 
 Saginaw Bay is a large indentation of the shore- 
 line like to that of Green Bay in Lake Michigan, 
 but not so large. Near its centre are a number of 
 small islands. Twenty miles from its mouth stands 
 the thriving town of Saginaw. From the north- 
 
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 li; 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 '3' 
 
 westerly cape of Saginaw Bay to Flat Rock Point, 
 the shore of Lake Huron presents a bank of alluvial 
 soil, with a margin of sand along its border inter- 
 sected with frequent masses of limestone rock, in 
 some places ground to fragments by the surging of 
 the waves. 
 
 Thunder Bay is also another indentation made 
 by the Lake. It was thus called from the impres- 
 sion that at this point the air was more than ordina- 
 rily charged with electricity. 
 
 Bois Blanc Island, at the head of Lake Huron, 
 stretches in the form of a crescent between the 
 Island of Mackinac and the lower peninsula of Mi- 
 chigan. It is from ten to twelve miles in length by 
 three or four in breadth. The lower part of this 
 island is sandy, but the larger portion of it is 
 covered with a fertile soil bearing a forest of elm, 
 maple, oak, ash, white-wood and beech. It has been 
 surveyed and a government light-house stands on its 
 eastern point. 
 
 In the northern part of Lake Michigan are located 
 Beaver Islands. There are five or six of this group 
 bearing difterent names. Big Beaver is the most 
 considerable, and contains perhaps forty square 
 miles. These islands all lie in the vicinity of each 
 other, and within a few miles northwest of Grand 
 
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 Old Mackinaw. 
 
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 till: 
 
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 It 
 
 and Littlo Traverse Bays in Lake Michigan. The 
 Big Beaver was, up to July, 1866, in possession 
 of the Mormons, who claimed it as a gift from the 
 Lord. 
 
 Another interesting locality is Drummond's Island, 
 between the Detour and the False Detour. It was 
 taken possession of by the British troops when they 
 surrendered Fort Mackinaw in 1814. On this island 
 they built a fort and formed quite a settlement. 
 Upon an examination of the boundary line between 
 the United States and Great Britain, it was ascer- 
 tained that this island was within the jurisdiction 
 of the former, and it was accordingly evacuated by 
 the British in 1828. The British subjects living on 
 tli^. island followed the troops, and the place was 
 soon deserted and became a desolation. 
 
 St. Helena Island is a small island near the 
 Straits of Mackinaw, not far from the shore of the 
 northern peninsula, containing a few acres over a 
 section of land. It is a great fishing station, and 
 enjoys a good harbor protected from westerly 
 winds. Its owner, who has exiled himself a la Na- 
 poleon, spends his time in fishing, and other pursuits 
 adapted to his mind. 
 
 In addition to the numerous islands constituting 
 the surroundings of Mackinaw there are a number 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 m 
 
 of intorcsting looalitios denominated " Points, tlmt 
 ^re must not omit to mention. The first, because the 
 most important, and one which is connected with 
 ninny historic associations which wo shall direct 
 attention to, is the " Iroquois Woman's Point," the 
 Indian name for Point St. Ignatius on the opposite 
 ^ide of the straits from Mackinaw, distant between 
 lliree and four miles, about the same as from the 
 Battery at New York to Staten Island. The origi- 
 nal inhabitants with their descendants have long 
 since passed away. Its present occupants are prin- 
 cipally Canadians. It has a Catholic chapel. 
 
 Point La Barbe, opposite to Green Island Shoals 
 and Mackinav , is a projection of the upper penin- 
 sula into the straits. It is four miles distant from 
 Gross Cape, and derives its name from a custom 
 which prevailed among the Indian traders in olden 
 time on their annual return to Mackinaw of stop- 
 ping here and putting on their best apparel before 
 making their appearance among the people of that 
 place. 
 
 About half way between Mackinaw and Cheboy- 
 e-gun, a projection from the lower peninsula into 
 the straits, is Point aux Sable. Point St. Vital is a 
 cape projecting into Lake Huron from the south- 
 eastern extremity of the upper peninsula. There is 
 12 
 
iiili: 
 
 iiip 
 
 134 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 a reef of rocks oflf this point where the steamer 
 Queen City was wrecked. On a clear day this point 
 may be seen from Fort Holmes, and it presents an 
 enchanting view. The St. Martin's Islands are also 
 in full view from this point. 
 
 In the southwestern part of the straits, about 
 twenty miles distant from Mackinaw, is Fox Point. 
 A light-house has been erected on a shoal extending 
 out two miles into the lake. Moneto-pa-maw is a 
 high bluff still further west, on the shore of Michi- 
 gan, where there are fine fisheries, and is a place of con- 
 siderable resort. Further west, near the mouth of the 
 Mille au Coquin river which empties into Michi- 
 gan, there are also excellent fisheries, and to those 
 who are fond of this kind of sport apart from the 
 profit connected with it, there is no place in the 
 world possessing half the attractions as Mackinaw 
 and its surroundings, while the " MackiLP.w trout," 
 with the "Mackinaw boat" and the "Mackinaw 
 blanket," are famous over the world. 
 
 Between Little Traverse and Mackinaw is the vil- 
 lage of Cross, or La Crosse. The following interest- 
 ing account of a visit to that place is taken from the 
 Mackinaw Herald in 1859 : 
 
 " The name of this village — * Cross,' recalls to one's 
 mind, some reminiscences connected with the early 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 13J 
 
 history of the Indian Missions. Suffice it to observe, 
 that it derives its name from the circumstance of a large 
 cross having stood for many years on the brow of 
 the hill, on which the present Indian village stands, 
 planted there by some of the followers of James 
 Marquette, during their explorations and missions 
 in this part of the country. The old cross was of 
 oak, and was still standing about forty-five years 
 aero. Recently it has been replaced by another. An 
 old Indian, called The Short- Arm, over whose bead 
 some eighty winters had passed, was still living in 
 1836, and who, when a little boy, recollected to have 
 seen the last Missionary of this place. ' I am old, 
 my children,' said the aged Missionary, ' and I wish 
 to die among my own people — I must leave you.' 
 He left ; and in the course of time the Arbre-Croche 
 Indians relapsed into Paganism. They continued in 
 this state until a young Christian Ottawa, named 
 Aw'taw-weesh, who had just returned from among the 
 Catholic Algonquins in Canada, appeared among 
 them and taught religion. He became also, in some 
 respects, what Cadmus was of old, or Guess among 
 the Cherokees — the first teacher of letters, among 
 his people. As writing paper was then scarce, at 
 least among the Indians, he taught them to write on 
 birch bark, with sharpened sticks, instead of pens. 
 
 ■^■i:^;:!ii!r.--. v^ 
 
136 
 
 Old Mackinaw* 
 
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 This man is still living. He is now old, poor, al- 
 most entirely blind ; and although having been a 
 real benefactor to his people, he may go down to his 
 grave, unpitied, and unknown. 
 
 "But awakened by his teachings, the Indians after- 
 ward called loudly on Missionaries to come among 
 them, and they have had them during the past 
 thirty or forty years. 
 
 " At this day tw'o Catholic Clergymen and a Con- 
 vent of four Brothers and twelve Sisters — being 
 a religious community, of the Third Order of St. 
 Francis — are stationed at this place. But, to return : 
 As rough voyaging generally gives keen appeti ^', 
 so the party did ample justice to the eatables, whicl 
 had been prepared by the Indians. Perhaps some 
 reader at a distance might suppose this supper to have 
 been taken in a wigwam; with the fire-place in the 
 centre, a hole above for the escape of smoke ; and 
 the party squatting down upon the ground, with 
 legs crossed in tailor fashion, around a single dish : 
 no, no ; but it was prepared in a good, substantial 
 house; on a table with a table-cloth, with crockery, 
 dishes, tea-cups and saucers, and knives and forks, 
 such as are used by common white folks. Then 
 there stood the waiters, ready to assist the double- 
 handed manipulations going on at the table. At 
 a convenient hour, the party separated for* the night; 
 
 1, ;! 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ^37 
 
 
 the agent was put in possession of the clergyman's 
 house, then temporarily absent on a mission, by the 
 Rev. Mr. Weikamp, the Superior of the Convent. 
 
 " The next day, after the forenoon services of the 
 church at the village, the agent and party, according 
 to previous invitation, went to the Convent for 
 dinner. Arrived there, they were introduced first 
 into a log cabin, situated at some distance in the rear 
 of the convent, occupied by the four Brothers, be- 
 longing to the order, and the Rev. Superior. He 
 occupies a single room, in real new-settler style. 
 This is his sitting-room, library, study and bed-room. 
 He has traveled in Europe, and some parts of Asia ; 
 he has various objects of curiosity ; and among these 
 is a silver coin of about the size and value of a Mexi- 
 can quarter of a dollar, which he brought with him 
 from Jerusalem." This piece of money is said to be 
 one of the kind of which Judas received thirty pieces, 
 from the chief priests and magistrates, the price for 
 which he sold his Divine Master. Another thing, is 
 a Turkish pipe, with its long, pliable stem, with 
 which the lover of the ' weed' could regale himself 
 without being annoyed by the smoke, as usual ; for 
 the pipe, which is made somewhat in the shape and 
 of the size of a small decanter and half-filled with 
 water is so arranged that while the wet tobacco :.^ 
 12* 
 
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 '38 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 burning in the cup on the top, the smoke, during 
 auction at the stem, descends through a tube into 
 the water, and none of it escapes visibly, into the 
 open air. The Eev. Mr. Weikamp, the Superior, is 
 a German, and speaks English fluently. He is in 
 the prime of life, and is full of energy and perse ver 
 ance. He is not one of those who, from the fact of be- 
 longing to a religious order, may be supposed to be 
 gloomy, with head bowed down, not hardly daring 
 to cast his eyes up into the beautiful light of the 
 heavens; but he converses with freedom, ease and 
 assurance ; and he relishes a joke as well as any man, 
 when it comes a propos. A fanciful peculiarity, 
 though nothing strange in it, attends his steps wher- 
 ever he goes, in the shape of a small black dog 
 called "Finnic," with a string of small horse-bells 
 round his neck. "Finnic" has two black, watery 
 and glistening spots in his head for eyes, which seem 
 ready to shoot out from their sockets, especially 
 when spoken to. When told in German, to speak, 
 'Finnic' begins to tremble — he shakes his head- 
 jingles his bells ; and utters a kind of guttural snuff- 
 ling, and half-suppressed growl or bark. But, as we 
 are not acquainted with the German language, we 
 cannot say, that " Finnic" pronounces it well I 
 "Dinner being announced at the convent, the party 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 139 
 
 B, during M\ 
 <ube into ^K 
 
 into the M' 
 
 perior, is Kg 
 He is in HI 
 
 persever ^U 
 act of be- ^M 
 sed to be H| 
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 sase and Wm 
 
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 3uliarity, ^^ 
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 ack dog ^H 
 rse-bells |H 
 
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 Lch seem ^h 
 
 pecially ^H 
 
 3 speak, ^m 
 
 head— ^m 
 
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 age, we H 
 
 went over with the Superior to partake of it. Every- 
 thing about the table was scrupulously neat — an 
 abundance of the substantials of good living had 
 been prepared by the Sisters. Some time after 
 dinner the vesper bell rang at the convent ; and by 
 special permission, the party were shown into the 
 choir usually occupied by the Brothers alone during 
 the services of the church. This was on one side of 
 the altar ; and on the other, was a similar choir for 
 the sisters. In the body of the church, thelndians 
 or others are admitted. For a few moments after 
 entering, all was silence ; — but the priest having in- 
 toned the vespers, the sweet tones of a large melo- 
 deon suddenly swelled through the sanctuary, ming- 
 ling with the voices of the sisters. This for a time 
 had a singular effect. To hear music in these wild 
 woods, far away from civilized society where instru- 
 mental music forms part of the ordinary pleasures 
 and amenities of life, served to recall to one's memory 
 other days and other climes. After vespers, the 
 Superior of the convent conducted the party through 
 the building to view it. The dimensions are : 160 
 feet long, 80 wide, and 28 feet high. There are two 
 court yards, each 40 by 40 feet, and the church also 
 40 by 40, placed between them . When finished, this 
 building will contain 108 bedrooms, a large school- 
 
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 ip^w" 
 
 iiii: 
 
 i iiiiiiij a 
 
 m ;:■ :< ; 
 
 iii 
 
 140 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 room, carpenter and blacksmith shops, dining-rooms, 
 kitchen, store-rooms, halls, corridors, &c. It will be 
 separated into two parts ; one to be occupied exclu. 
 sively by the Sisters, and the other by the Brothers. 
 At the time of this visit, there were some cultivated 
 flowers yet in bloom in the court-yard. So much 
 for the material building : and now a hasty sketch 
 of this religious order may not be unacceptable to 
 some of our readers. 
 
 " This religious community, is the Third Order of 
 St. Francis, of Assisi, instituted in Europe by this 
 saint in 1221. It was established for persons mar- 
 ried or single living in the world, united by certain 
 pious exercises, compatible with a secular state. It 
 soon spread over all Europe, and even kings and 
 queens on their thrones vied with the poorest pea- 
 sants in eagerly entering this order, to share the 
 labors of the mission within its sphere, and to parti- 
 cipate in its spiritual benefits. Among the persons 
 of this order, who were expelled from their cloister 
 homes during the revolution which agitated Europe 
 in 1848, was Sister Teresa Hackelmayer, This nun, 
 at the proposal of a missionary father in America, 
 and by permission of her Superior, came to New 
 York in the t iter of 1851, to establish a com- 
 munity of hei order in that State. But meeting 
 
 ! Mi';. - 
 
 ' Iiii;; 
 
 ili|pii|;0 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 141 
 
 with disappointment there, she finally established a 
 convent at Oldenburg, in the State of Indiana. In 
 1851, a second convent of this order was founded at 
 Nojoshing, four miles from Milwaukee, on Lake 
 Michigan. In 1853, the Rev. J. B. Weikamp 
 founded, in West Chicago, the third convent of this 
 order, and also formed a .^ munity of Brothers; — 
 and in October 1855, with the understanding of 
 Bishop Baraga, then Vicar Apostolic of Upper Michi- 
 gan, he transferred those two communities to ' Cross 
 Village' — his present location. 
 
 The company having ranged through the building, 
 as observed, took a walk outside. From the south 
 side of the convent, a broad walk is laid out reaching 
 to an inclosure of some forty feet square, at the dis- 
 tance of about fifteen rods. Another and narrower 
 walk through the centre of this inclosure leads to a 
 small square building, on the opposite side, having 
 a four-sided roof meeting in a point, and surmounted 
 by a cross. On entering this building, a lounge or 
 settee, stands in front, and on the wall above it, hangs a 
 piece of board or canvass, painted black, on which are 
 human skulls of different sizes, each with two cross 
 bones painted in white. A trap-door is raised from 
 the floor, and a d«ep, spacious vault is opened to 
 view : this is the place of burial for the Superior of 
 
 m 
 
 ■11 
 
 :i 
 
142 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 the convent. On the outside, the spaces on either side 
 of the little 7alk are intended to be the last resting- 
 places of the brothers and sisters. It is a solemn 
 thought to see men thus prepare deliberately for 
 Death I But as the party retraced their steps in such 
 cheerful, good humor, loitering toward the convent, 
 one might have supposed that the beautiful weather, 
 the bright sunshine, and the bracing air had, for the 
 time, scattered away all thoughts of death. Among 
 the questions proposed to the Superior was, ' "Whe- 
 ther at any time the brothers and sisters were al- 
 lowed to have social, familiar intercourse with » .a 
 other?' The Superior answered, in substance, that 
 they were not ; nor even allowed to speak to each 
 other, without permission of the Superior. ' Then 
 according to your principle,' some one rejoined, * the 
 world would soon come to an end I' The remark 
 raised a general laugh, in which the Superior him- 
 self joined heartily." 
 
 • !■■ 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Three epochs— The romantic — The military — The agricultural 
 and commercial — An inviting region — Jesuit and Protestant 
 missions — First Protestant mission — First missionary — 
 Islands of Mackinac and Green Bay — La Pointe — Saut St. 
 Mary — Presbyterians — Baptists — Methodists — Revival at 
 Fort Brady — Ke-wee-naw — Pon du Lac — Shawnees — Potta- 
 watimies — Eagle River— Ontonagon— Camp River — Iroquois 
 Point — Saginaw Indians— Melancholy reflections — Number 
 of Indians in the States and Territories. 
 
 The history of this region, in the language of one, 
 exhibits three distinct and strongly marked epochs. 
 The first may be properly denominated the romantic, 
 which extends to the year 1760, when its dominion 
 passed from the hands of the French to the English. 
 This was the period when the first beams of civiliza- 
 tion had scarcely penetrated its forests, and the pad- 
 dles of the French fur trader swept the lakes, and 
 the boat songs of the voyageurs awakened the tribes 
 on their wild and romantic shores. 
 
 (148) 
 
 
 If 
 
'44 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1 
 
 M> 
 
 The second epoch is the military, which com- 
 menced with the Pontaic war, running down through 
 the successive struggles of the British, the Indians, 
 and the Americans, to obtain dominion of the coun- 
 try, and ending with the victory of Commodore Perry, 
 the defeat of Proctor, the victory of General Harrison 
 and the death ofTecumseh, the leader of the Anglo- 
 savage conspiracy on the banks of the Thames. 
 
 The third may be denominated the enterprising, 
 the hardy, the mechanical, and working period, com- 
 mencing with the opening of the country to emi- 
 grant settlers, the age of agriculture, commerce, and 
 manufactures, of harbors, cities, canals, and railroads, 
 when the landscapes of the forest were meted out by 
 the compass and chain of the surveyor, when its 
 lakes and rivers were sounded, and their capacity, 
 to turn the wheel of a mill or to float a ship, were 
 demonstrated, thus opening up avenues of commerce 
 and industry. Its wild and savage character has 
 passed away, and given place to civilization, religion, 
 and commerce, inviting the denizens of over-crowded 
 cities to its broad lakes and beautiful rivers, its rich 
 mines and fertile prairies, and promising a rapid and 
 abundant remuneration for toil. 
 
 We have alluded to the labors and sacrifices of 
 the Jesuit missionaries in the early period of the 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 •45 
 
 history of the nortliwest, and it is right and proj)er 
 that the labors of the Protestant missionaries, though 
 of a much later period, should not be forgotten. 
 The Jesuit fathers were not alone in sacrifice and 
 toil in introducing the Gospel among the tribes of 
 the northwest. The first Protestant missions estab- 
 lished in this region, as far as we have been able to 
 learn, were those of the Presbyterian Church on the 
 Island of Mackinac and at Green Bay. 
 
 The first missionary who visited Mackinaw was 
 the Rev. David Bacon, father of the Rev. Leonard 
 Bacon, D. D., of New Haven. He was sent out by 
 the Connecticut Missionary Society in 1800, and 
 commenced his mission in Detroit, where, after re- 
 maining a year or two, he relinquished his field to 
 a Moravian missionary, Rev. Mr. Denky, and visited 
 the Indians on the Maumee. From this he returned 
 to Detroit, and from thence went to Mackinac, where 
 he remained until tho missionary society was com- 
 pelled, from want of funds, to recall their mis- 
 sionary. 
 
 The following interesting account was given by 
 C. J. "Walker, Esq., before the Historical Society of 
 Dciroit : 
 
 " The Connecticut Missionary Society is, I believe, 
 the oldest Missionary Association in America. It 
 13 
 
 IB 
 
146 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 I 
 
 was organized in June, 1796, the General Aiwocia. 
 tion of Connecticut, at its annual meeting that year, 
 having organized itself into a society of that name. 
 Its object was 'to Christianize the heathen in Nortli 
 America, and to support and promote Christian 
 knowledge in the new settlements within the United 
 States.' For some years its eflbrts were principally 
 directed to sending missionaries ' to the new settle- 
 ments in Vermont, New York, and Pennsylvania,' 
 and subsequently 'New Connecticut,' or the West 
 em Reserve of Ohio, became an important field of 
 its operations. The trustees, in June, 1800, deter- 
 mined ' that a discreet man, animated by the love of 
 God and souls, of a good common education, be 
 sought for, to travel among the Indian tribes south 
 and we3t of Lake Erie, to explore their situation 
 and learn their feelings with respect to Christianity, 
 and so far as he has opportunity to teach them its 
 doctrines and duties.' A very sensible letter of 
 ' Instructions' was adopted and a long message ' to 
 the Indian tribes bordering on Lake Erie' prepared, 
 showing very little knowledge of Indian mind and 
 character. Mr. David Bacon presented himself as a 
 candidate for this somewhat unpromising field of 
 labor. His son says he was one of those men who 
 are called visionarv and enthusiasts bv men of more 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 '47 
 
 niosiiic and plcMldiiig tcmpcratnoiit. lie had not u 
 liberal education, but was a man of eminent intollco- 
 tiiiil powers* and of intensely thoughtful habits, and 
 lit'side a deep religious exporient;o, ho hud endoavoreil 
 (lilligcntly to fit himself for ti missionury life, the 
 self-denying labors of which he ardently coveted. 
 Oil examination Mr. Bacon was accepted. 
 
 " On the 8th of August, 1800, Mr. Bacon left Hart- 
 ford on foot with his pii/k upon his buck, and on the 
 4th of September he was ut BufTjdo, having walked 
 most of the distance. Ihi th. 8th, he I 'ft on a 
 vessel for this city, which he read re after a quick 
 and pleasant voyage on the Iflh. He vj.4 made 
 welcome at the house of tlo commandant, Majoj 
 Hunt, where, I believe, his first religious services 
 were held. Gen. Uriah Tracy, of Litchfield, Conn., 
 General Agent of the United iStates for the Western 
 Indians, was then here, and, together with the local 
 Indian agent, Jonathan Schieftelin, took an active 
 interest in the mission of Mr. Bacon. John Askin, 
 Esq., the same liberie? minded merchant, who so es- 
 sentially befriended the Moravians twenty years be- 
 fore, and BenjaTuin Huntington, a merchant here, 
 formerly of .Norwich, Conn., rendered him valuable 
 information and assistance. Learning from these 
 sources that the Delawares at Sandusky, were about 
 
148 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 !| 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 
 ! 
 
 ir.; ^1 
 
 
 i 
 
 j 
 
 '1 
 
 
 
 ;!^'v ■■■■ ' 
 'Dili ■■ 
 
 
 
 
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 ii 
 
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 i! 
 
 ■1, ■ ■ ,. |i 
 
 
 to remove, that the Wyandottes were mostly Catho- 
 lies, and that there were no other Indians 'south 
 and west of Lake Erie,' among whom there was an 
 inviting field of labor, his attention was turned to 
 the north, and, with the advice of these judicious 
 friends, on the 13th of September, he took passage 
 with General Tracy in a government vessel bound 
 for Mackinac, and went to Harson's Island, at tlie 
 head of Lake St. Clair, near which there was quitu 
 an Indian settlement. Although only forty miles 
 distant, he did not reach there until the 17th, being 
 four days upon the voyage. Jacob Harson or Hars- 
 ing, as it was originally spelled, the proprietor of 
 this island, was an Albany Dutchman, who, in 1766, 
 on appointment of Sir Wm. Johnson, came to Nia- 
 gara as Indian blacksmith and gunsmith, and his 
 original commission or letter of appointment, written 
 by Sir William, is now before me. On the breaking 
 dut of the Eevolution, finding Mr. Harson friendly 
 to the Americans, the British stripped him of his 
 property and sent him, sorely against his will, 
 to this frontier. He established himself upon the 
 island as early as 1786, where his descendants 
 now reside, acquired great influence with the In- 
 dians, and lived in a very comfortable manner. He 
 received Mr. Bacon in this beautiful retreat, with 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 >49 
 
 great kindness and hospitality, and he thanks the 
 Lord that he is provided a comfortable house, a con- 
 venient study, and as good a bed and as good board 
 as I should have had if I had remained in Connecti- 
 cut. I know of no place in the State of New York 
 so healthy as this, I believe the water and the air as 
 pure here as in any part of New England, and I 
 have never been before where venison and wild 
 geese and ducks were so plenty, or where there was 
 such a rich variety of fresh-water fish. There were 
 many Indians in the vicinity. Mr. Harson encour- 
 uged the establishment of a mission, and Mr. Bacon 
 deemed it a most favorable opening. Bernard us 
 Harson, a son of Jacob, was engaged as interpreter. 
 He returned to Detroit on the same vessel with 
 General Tracy, Sept. 30th, to attend an Indian Coun- 
 cil which was held here on the 7th of October, when 
 lie was formally introduced to the Indians by General 
 Tracy, and was most favorably received. He re- 
 turned to the island and remained until the Indians 
 departed for their winter hunting grounds, when he 
 left for Connecticut, where he arrived about the 
 middle of December. He was soon ordained to the 
 ministry, and I believe married, for he returned with 
 a young wife of whom nothing is heard previously. 
 "Late in January 1801, Mr. Bacon commenced his 
 
i^o 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 I 'W 
 
 mi 
 
 Mm 
 111 I 
 
 Plill'l' 
 
 I il''":" ': 
 
 
 return journey with his wife and her brothei*, Bejiii- 
 mont Parks. Esq., now of Springfield, Illinois, a 
 young man who came with him to learn the Cliip- 
 pewa language and to become a teacher. The 
 sleighing leaving them they remained at Bloomfield, 
 Ontario county, New York, until spring, and did not 
 reach here until May 9th. Mr. Bacon's plan was to 
 remain at Detroit, until he became so familar with 
 the Indian language that he could successfully pro- 
 secute his mission. He remained here until the 
 spring of 1802, holding regular religious services in 
 the Council House. For a time he preached twice 
 upon the Sabbath, but the afternoon attendance be- 
 ing thin, he accepted a call from the settlement on the 
 river Eouge to preach to them half a day. To aid in 
 defraying expenses he commenced keeping a school in 
 the house where he lived on St. James street, just in 
 the rear of the Masonic Hall, and in this he was as- 
 sisted by his wife. One at least of our present fel- 
 low citizens was a pupil of Mr. Bacon, and has plea- 
 sant memories of that little school. Amid many 
 discouragements the study of the Chippewa was 
 pursued by this missionary family, and although they 
 made ' but slow progress' and it was ' hard work to 
 commit their words to memory' and ' extremely dif- 
 ficult to construct a sentence according to the idioms 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 J51 
 
 of their language,' they * hope and expect we shall 
 bo uhle to surmount every difficulty.' 
 
 " While thus toilfuUy but hopefully preparing for 
 his anticipated work, getting acquainted with Indians, 
 their life and character, and as yet uncertain at what 
 precise point to commence his mission, Mr. Denhey, 
 a Moravian missionary, desired to occupy the field 
 upon the St. Clair Kiver, which Mr. Bacon in some 
 measure occupied the year before, and to this Mr. 
 Bacon assented. His attention had been called to 
 Mackinac and L'Arbre Croche, but he resolved to 
 visit the Indians upon the Maumee, and ascertain by 
 personal interviews and examination what encourage- 
 ment there was for a mission in that vicinity. For 
 this purpose, with his brother-in-law and a hired 
 man, on 29th of April, 1802, he left in a canoe for 
 the 'Miami,' as the Maumee was then called. He 
 found most of the Indian chiefs engaged in a drunken 
 debauch, and it was not until the 14th of May, 
 and after repeated eftbrts, that he succeeded in 
 gathering a full council, and addressing them upon 
 the subject of establishing a mission among them. 
 He felt it his duty to have translated the message sent 
 to the Indians by the Missionary Society. The poor 
 savages listened courteously to this long piece of 
 abstruse theological narrative and argument, but 
 
\ 
 
 152 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 
 i 
 
 \m' 
 
 1 1 ■ 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 they must have been terribly, bored, notwithstand- 
 ing Mr. Bacon's efforts to * express the ideas in lan- 
 guage better adapted to the capacity and more 
 agreeable to their ways of speaking.' No wonder 
 that Little Otter was ' too unwell to attend in the 
 afternoon.' After this translation. Mr. Bacon made 
 a well conceived speech of considerable length, set- 
 ting forth the advantages which the Indians would 
 derive from a mission. There was no little point in 
 the polished reproof of Little Otter, in the commence- 
 ment of his speech, who said : ' Now brother, if you 
 will listen to us we will give you an answer. But it 
 is our way to be very short. Our white brothers, 
 when they make speeches, are very lengthy. They 
 read and write so much that they get in a great 
 many little things. But it is not so with your red 
 brothers. When we go on any great business and 
 have any great things to say, we say them in a few 
 words.' With no little ingenuity, but with apparent 
 courtesy, these sons of the forest declined a mission 
 in their midst. The gist of the reply is contained in 
 the following sentence : ' Brother, your religion is 
 very good ; but it is only good for white people. 
 It will not do for Indians, they are quite a different 
 sort of people.' 
 
 " On the following day Mr. Bacon started for De- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 '« 
 
 troit, and remained here until June 2d, when, with 
 l)is family, he removed to Missilimackinac, then the 
 great centre of Indian population in our Territory. 
 Here he remained until August 1804, perfecting 
 himself in the language, teaching, preaching and 
 pursuing the other labors incident to his mission. 
 He very clearly saw that a successful Indian mission 
 involved no inconsiderable expenditure in establishing 
 
 schools and in educating the Indians in agriculture 
 and the ruder arts of civilization. These expendi- 
 tures were too large for the means of the Missionary 
 Society, and in January, 1804, they directed the 
 mission to abandoned, and that Mr. Bacon should 
 remove to the Western Eeserve. The intelligence 
 of this reached Mr. Bacon in July, and in August he 
 removed and became the first founder of the town of 
 Tallmadge, Ohio. Thus ended this first Protestant 
 effort to convert the Indians of Michigan to the faith 
 of the cross. It was while Mr. Bacon was residing 
 here that Eev. Dr. Bacon was born. We may there- 
 fore, with pride, claim him as a native of our beau- 
 tiful city." 
 
 Sometime after a mission was established at La 
 Pointe near the southern extremity of Lake Supe- 
 rior. The Mission at Mackinac was subsequently 
 revived and continued until 1837, when the popu- 
 
154 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 m 
 
 lation had so entirely changed, and the Indians liad 
 discontinued their visits for purposes of trade, 
 that it was deemed best to abandon it, which was 
 done, and the property sold. The Rev. Mr. Pitezel, 
 in his " Lights and Shade of Missionary Life," who 
 visited the island in 1848, thus speaks of this mis- 
 sion : •' We visited the mission establishment once 
 imder the care of the Presbyterian Church, but now 
 abandoned. It is a spacious building, and was once 
 thronged with native and half-bred children and 
 youth, there educated at vast expense. Little of the 
 fruit of this self-sacrificing labor is thought noAv to 
 be apparent, but the revelations of eternity may 
 show that here was a necessary and a very impor- 
 tant link in the chain of events, connected with the 
 Christianization of benighted pagans." During the 
 time of Mr. Pitezel's visit, a large number of Indians 
 of different tribes had assembled at the island, for 
 the purpose of receiving their annuity, among which 
 were several Christian Indians, from Saut St. Mary, 
 Grand Traverse, and elsewhere. The Rev. Mr. 
 Daugherty, a Presbyterian minister, from the latter 
 place, accompanied his Indians, and had his tent 
 among them for the purpose of keeping his sheep 
 from the hands of the woolfish white man, who 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 »55 
 
 would first rob him of his religion, and then of his 
 
 money. 
 
 In 1828, the Baptists established a mission at 
 Saut St. Mary. This mission was opened under the 
 most favorable auspices by the Eev. A. Bingham, 
 and continued in a state of prosperity for many 
 years. In 1843 it was still under the superintend- 
 ence of the Rev. Mr. Bingham, who for twenty years 
 had been laboring to bring the Indians under Chris- 
 tian influence. Indian children were boarded in 
 the mission establishment, and a school was kept up, 
 whicli, in the language of one, would have been a 
 credit to any land. The Rev. Mr. Porter, a Congre- 
 gationalist missionary, also labored here. The la- 
 bors of these missionaries were greatly blessed, and 
 numbers of officers and soldiers at the fort and gar- 
 rison, as well as Indians, were converted. 
 
 The Baptist missionaries extended their labors to 
 various points on the northern peninsula and on the 
 shores of Lake Superior. 
 
 The Methodists commenced a mission at Saut St. 
 Mary, under the labors of "John Sunday," a con- 
 verted Indian, soon after that established by the 
 Baptists. In 1831 a portion of the Oneida Indians 
 removed to Green Bay, and the Rev. John Clark was 
 sent out as a missionary among them the following 
 
 ii^gt.. 
 
 * . 
 
156 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 4 
 
 ll 
 i 
 
 '■;i 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 '1 1 
 
 ''f^v 
 
 is- 
 
 1 liiili!' 
 
 Ililil: 
 
 n 
 
 year. In a report ma<ie by the missionary to the 
 Board, lio thus describes his field of labor : " The 
 white settlement is located on the left bank of the 
 Fox Eiver, extending up the river about five miles 
 from the head of the bay. The population is about 
 one thousand, but greatly amalgamated with the Me- 
 nominee Indians, over whom it is said they have 
 great influence. The Indian settlement is about 
 twenty-five miles from this place, on the left bank 
 of the Fox river." Mr. Clark preached at this set- 
 tlement and at Green Bay on alternate Sabbaths. 
 Messrs. Marsh and Stevens, of the Presbyterian 
 church, were located here, laboring among the Stock- 
 bridge Indians and kindly welcomed Mr. Clark 
 among them. These Indians emigrated from Stock- 
 bridge, Mass., and were at one time under the pas- 
 toral care of Jonathan Edwards. While this distin- 
 guished divine was missionary among these Indians, 
 at Stockbridge, he wrote his famous " Treatise on 
 the Will." Mr. Clark was cordially received by the 
 Indian agent, Mr. Schoolcraft. 
 
 In 1883, he visited Saut St. Mary, and found a revi- 
 val in progress. Nearly all the ofiicers, and thirty or 
 forty soldiers, in Fort Brady had been converted. 
 The cpmmand was soon after removed to Chicago, 
 and was succeeded by another. A gracious revival 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 •57 
 
 followed his labors at the fort, and officers and sol- 
 diers were seen bowing at the same altar, happy in 
 the enjoyment of a common salvation. Still holding 
 his connection with Green Bay, he visited that place 
 und preached in Fort Howard and also among his 
 Indians who had removed to Duck Creek. 
 
 At Ke-wee-naw, John Sunday commenced a mis- 
 sion among the Chippewas, and in 1834 Mr. Clark 
 visited that interesting field. He continued to su- 
 perintend the missions in this region, until he vr»lun- 
 teered as a missionary for Texas, and the superin- 
 tendence of the Indian mission was given to the 
 Rev. W. H. Brock way. The Be v. Mr. Pitezel la- 
 bored at Ke-wee-naw with great success for several 
 years, preaching at tho different mines on the shores 
 of Lake Superior. The Methodists also established 
 a mission at Fon du Lac near the east shore of 
 the Winnebago Lake. In the year 1830, a branch 
 mission was organized among the Wyandottes and 
 Shawnees on the Huron river, and also one among 
 the Pottawatimees at Fort Clark on the Fox river, at 
 which place, in 1837, upward of one hundred were 
 converted. 
 
 In 1847 a mission was established at the Cliff" 
 Mine, on Eagle River, a stream which empties into 
 Lake Superior, about twenty miles west of Copper 
 
158 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Harbor. Tho Methodifits have missions also at On. 
 tonagon and Carp River, all of which arc more or 
 less prosperous. 
 
 At present this church has maintained mis- 
 sions and schools among small bands of Indians 
 collected on reserves in Isabella and Oceana 
 counties in the lower peninsula of Michigan. The 
 Indians at the old mission in the vicinity of Saiit 
 St. Mary, are assembling at Iroquois Point at tlie 
 lower end of Lake Superior, and are supplied with 
 a missionary. A mission was also established in 
 the Bay Shore Reservation, among the Saginaw In- 
 dians, which still exists. 
 
 It is a matter of melancholy reflection, that tlie 
 immense tribes, each of which could muster thou- 
 sands of warriors in this vast region, have dwindled 
 down to small and feeble bands. The same re- 
 mark will apply to all the tribes in North America- 
 The race is rapidly passing away, and the nation, 
 like that of Edom. will at no distant day become 
 entirely extinct. The last report of the Secretary of 
 the Interior, states, that the whole number of Indians 
 within the limits of the States and Territories of the 
 Union, does not now exceed three hundred and 
 twenty-five thousand. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Indian name of Michigan — iMlands — Laiimaii'ti Uiimmer in the 
 wiUlorneHH — Plains -TreoH— RiverH — A traditionary land — 
 IU>nutiful d«8cription— Official report in relation to thetrado 
 of tlu) lakes — Green Bay — Grand Traverse Bay — Beaver 
 Islands — L'Arbre Croohe — Boundaries of Lake Micliigan — 
 Us connections — Railroad from Fort Wayne to Mackinaw — 
 Recent report of — Amount completed — Land grants. 
 
 The Indian name of the State of Michigan, is 
 Miclii-sawg-ye-gan, the meaning of which in the 
 Algonquin tongue is the Lake country. Surrounded 
 as it is ahnost entirely by water, it possesses all the 
 advantages of an island. It has numerous streams 
 which are clear and beautiful, abounding in fish. 
 The surface of the western half (we allude now to 
 the lower or southern peninsula) is destitute of rocks, 
 and undulating. In the language of Lanman in his 
 "Summer in the Wilderness," "It is here that the 
 loveliest of lakes and streams and prairies are to be 
 found. No one who has never witnessed them 
 
 (159) 
 
lOo 
 
 Old M.iokinaw. 
 
 (ran form any idoa of ; exquisite luxiuty of the 
 thoUBand lakcH whioh gorii tho woHtorn part of Michi- 
 gan. They aro tlic brightoHt and j)urcst mirroiH the 
 virgin Hky lias ever used to adorn herself. On th»i 
 bunks of these lakes, grow in rich profusion, tliu 
 rose, the violet, the lily and the 8wcet brier. 
 
 " A great [)r()porti()n of Michigan is covered with 
 white-oak openings. Standing on a gentle hill,th(! 
 eye wanders away for miles over an undulating sur- 
 face, obstructed onl}'- by the trunks of lofty trees,— 
 above you a green canopy, and beneath, a carpet 
 of velvet grass, sprinkled with flowers of every hue 
 and Ibrm. 
 
 "The prairies are another interesting feature of 
 Michigan scenery. They meet the traveler at every 
 point, and of many sizes, seeming often like so many 
 lakes, being often studded with wooded islands, and 
 surrounded by shores of forests. This soil is a deep 
 black sand. Grass is their natural production, al- 
 though corn, oats and potatoes flourish upon them. 
 Never can I forget the first time I entered White 
 Pigeon Prairie. Sleeping beneath the shadows of 
 sunset, as it was, the effect upon me was like that 
 which is felt on first beholding the ocean, — over- 
 powering awe. All that the poet has said about these 
 gardens of the desert is true. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 161 
 
 "l^iirr Oak Plains. The only difteroiice Ih3- 
 twocn these and the oak oponingH, Ih the character of 
 ibo trees and the evenness of their surface. The soil 
 ii* a mixture of sand and black loam. They have 
 tli<5 appearance of cultivated orchards, or Knglish 
 parks; and on places where the foot of the white 
 mm has never trod, a carriage and four could easily 
 pass through. They produce both wheat and 
 corn. 
 
 "The wet prairies have the appearance of sub- 
 merged land. In them the grass is often six or seven 
 hit higli. They are the resort of water-fowl, musk* 
 rats, and otters. 
 
 "But the best and most fertile soil in Michigan is 
 that designated by the title of timbered land. It costs 
 more to prepare it for the plough, but when once 
 the soil is sown it yields a thousand-fold. And 
 with regard to their beauty and magnificence, the 
 innumerable forests of this State are not surpassed 
 by any in the world, whether we consider the va- 
 riety or grandeur of their production. This timber 
 is needed for prairie States, Lake cities, and exports. 
 
 " A friend of mine, now residing in westetn Michi- 
 gan, and who once spent several years in Europe, 
 thus writes respecting this region : 
 
 " ' Oh, such trees as we have here I Magnificent, 
 14* 
 
 > 11 
 
 i' SI 
 
-4 
 
 l62 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ; I- 
 
 tall, large-leafed, umbrageous. Vallombrosa, the 
 far-famed Vallombrosa of Tuscany, is nothing to 
 the thousand Vallombrosas here! A fig for your 
 Italian scenery ! This is the country where nature 
 reigns in her virgin beauty ; where trees grow, where 
 corn grows ; where men grow better than they do 
 anywhere else in the world. This is the land to 
 study nature in all her luxuriant charms, under 
 glorious green branches, among singing birds and 
 laughing streams ; this is the land to hear the cooing 
 of the turtle-dove, in far, deep, cool, sylvan bowers; 
 to feel your soul expand under the mighty influences 
 of nature in her primitive beauty and strength.' 
 
 " The principal inland rivers of Michigan, are the 
 Grand Eiver, the Kalamazoo, the St. Joseph, the 
 Saginaw, and the Raisin. The first three empty into 
 Lake Michigan, and are about seventy miles apart. 
 Their average length is about two hundred and fifty 
 miles, and they are about thirty or forty rods in 
 width. At present, they are navigable about half 
 their length for small steamboats and bateaux. 
 Their bed is of limestone, covered with pebbles. I 
 was a passenger on board the Matilda Barney, on 
 her first trip, — the first steamer that ever ascended 
 the St. Joseph, which I consider the most perfectly 
 beautiful stream that I ever have seen. I remember 
 
Ti;k 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 163 
 
 well the many flocks of wild turkeys and herds of 
 deer that the ' iron horse' frightened in his winding 
 career. The Indian canoe is now giving way to tho 
 more costly but less beautiful row-boat, and those 
 rivers are becoming deeper and deeper every day. 
 Instead of the howl of the wolf, the songs of husband- 
 men now echo through their vales, where may be 
 found many comfortable dwellings. 
 
 " The Saginaw runs toward the north and empties 
 into Lake Huron, — that same Huron which has been 
 celebrated in song by the young poet, Louis L. Noble. 
 This river is navigable for sixty miles. The river 
 Raisin is a winding stream, emptying into Lake 
 Erie, called so from the quantity of grapes that 
 cluster on its banks. Its Indian name is Numma- 
 sepee, signifying Eiver of Sturgeons. Sweet river ! 
 whose murmurs have so often been my lullaby, 
 mayst thou continue in thy beauty forever. Are 
 there not streams like thee flowing through the para- 
 dise of God ? 
 
 ''Notwithstanding the comparative newness of 
 Michigan, its general aspect is ancient. The ruin of 
 many an old fort may be discovered on its borders, 
 reminding the beholder of wrong and outrage, blood 
 and strife. This was ouce the home of noble but 
 oppressed nations. Here lived and loved the Al- 
 
 1 
 
-^ 
 
 164 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 mHHLMUW<l: 
 
 MBnlinP' 
 
 rl 
 
 gonquin and Shawnese Indians ; the names of whose 
 warrior chiefs — Pontiao the proud, and Tequniseh 
 tlie brave — will long be treasured in history. I 
 have stood upon their graves, which are marked only 
 by a blighted tree and an unhewn stone, and have 
 sighed deeply as I remembered their deeds. But 
 they have gone — gone like the lightning of a siiinmer 
 day! 
 
 '^ It is traditionary land. For we are told that tlie 
 Indian hunters of old saw fairies and genii floatiug 
 over its lakes and streams, and dancing through its 
 lonely forests. In these did they believe, and to 
 please them was their religion. 
 
 " The historian, James H. Lanning, Esq., of this 
 State, thus writes, in alluding to the olden times: 
 ' The streams rolled their liquid silver to the lake, 
 broken only by the fish that flashed in their current, 
 or the swan that floated upon their surface. Vege- 
 tation flourished alone. Roses bloomed and died, 
 only to be trampled by the deer or savage ; and 
 strawberries studded the ground like rubies, where 
 the green and sunny hillsides reposed amid the 
 silence, like sleeping infants in the lap of the forest. 
 The rattlesnake glided undisturbed through its prai- 
 ries ; and the fog which hung in clouds over its stag- 
 nant marshes spread no pestilence. The panther, 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 .6j 
 
 the fox, the deer, the wolf, and bear, roamed fearless 
 through the more remote parts of the domain, for 
 there were none to dispute with them their inherit- 
 ance. But clouds thickened. In the darkness of mid- 
 nifht, and silence of the wilderness, the tomahawk and 
 .scalping knife were forged for their work of death. 
 Speeches were made by the savages under the voice- 
 less stars, which were heard by none save God and 
 their allies ; and the war-song echoed from the banks 
 of lakes where had never been heard the footsteps 
 of civilized man.' 
 
 •' Then followed the horrors of war ; t'len and there 
 were enacted the triumphs of revenge. But those 
 sounds have died away ; traced only on the page of 
 history, those deeds. The voice of rural labor, the 
 clink of the hammer, and the sound of Sabbath-bells 
 now echo in those forests and vales. Tlie plough is 
 makhig deep furrows in l.'s soil, and the sound of 
 the anvil is in every yjin. i\. \/el]-endowed Univer- 
 sity, and seminaries oi learning ; >a^ there. Kail roads 
 and canals, like veins v ? health, iue gliding to its 
 noble heart. The red man, in his original grandeur 
 and state of nature, has passed away from its more 
 fertile borders ; and his bitterest enemy, the pale 
 face IS master of his possessions." 
 
 From a report made, by order of Congress, by 
 
'U'i 
 
 166 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Israel D. Andrews, in 1853, in relation to the trade 
 of the great lakes and rivers, we extract the follow- 
 ing : — " Michigan is the second of the great lakes in 
 size, being inferior only to Lake Superior, and in 
 regard to situation and the quality of the surround- 
 ing soil and the climate is, in many respects, prefer- 
 able to them all. Its southern extremity, rising 
 south in fertile regions, nearly two degrees to the 
 south of Albany, and the whole of its great southern 
 peninsula being imbosomed in fresh waters, its cli- 
 mate is mild and equable, as its soil is rich and pro- 
 ductive. The lake is three hundred miles long by 
 sixty in breadth, and contains sixteen thousand nine 
 hundred and eighty-one square miles, having a mean 
 depth of nine hundred feet. On the western shore 
 it has the great indentation of Green Bay ; itself equal 
 to the largest lakes in England, being one hundred 
 miles luag and thirty broad. It is well sheltered 
 at its mouth by the Traverse Islands, and has for its 
 affluent the outlet of Winnebago and the Fox Eiver. 
 " Grand Traverse Bav is a considerable inlet of Lake 
 Michigan, which sets up into the lower peninsula, 
 one hundred miles south from the Island of Macki- 
 nac. It is a good farming and lumbering country. 
 There are two mission stations and six or seven 
 steam and water mills located at this point. It is 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 167 
 
 now an organized county called Grand Traverse. 
 The county seat is at Grand Traverse City, West 
 Bay, where they have a court-house and jail. 
 
 " L'Arbre Croche Village is an old Indian town, 
 situated about twenty-five miles southwest from 
 Mackinaw, on the lower peninsula. It is composed 
 mostly of Indians. It has a Catholic Church and a 
 Home Mission Station, with a teacher and other 
 assistants to instruct the Indians in the English lan- 
 guage. It has extensive clearinns for miles, along 
 tlie banks of the lake shore, and extending from one 
 to six miles back into the interior, indicating that 
 once a large population must have inhabited this 
 section of the country. 
 
 "The principal tributaries of Lake Michigan are the 
 Manistee, Great Kalamazoo, and St. Joseph's rivers, 
 from the southern peninsula of Michigan, the Des- 
 Plainos, the O Plaines and Chee rivers, from Indiana, 
 Illinois, and from the northern peninsula, the Meno- 
 minee, Escambia, Noquet, White Fish and Manistee 
 rivers. The lake is bounded to the eastward by the 
 rich and fertile land of the southern peninsula, send- 
 ing out vast quantities of all the cereal grains, equal 
 if not superior in quality to any raised in the United 
 States. It is bounded on the south and southwest by 
 Indiana and Illinois, which supply corn and beef of 
 
•^11 
 
 i68 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 A^l 
 
 the finest quality, in superabundance, for exporta- 
 tion. On the west it is bounded by the productive 
 grain and grazing lands and lumber district of Wis- 
 consin, and on the northwest and north by the invalu- 
 able and not yet half-explored mineral district of 
 northern Michigan. 
 
 " The natural outlet of its commerce, as of its wa- 
 ters, is by the Straits of Mackinaw into Lake Huron, 
 thence by the St. Clair Eiver down to the lower 
 marts. Of internal communications it already pos- 
 sesses many, both by canal and railroad, equal to 
 those almost of any of the older States, in length 
 and avail? bility, and inferior to none in importance. 
 First, it has the Green Bay, Lake Winnebago, and 
 Fox River improvement connecting it with the Wis- 
 consin Kiver, by which it has access to the Missis- 
 sippi River, and thereby enjoys the commerce of its 
 upper valleys, and its rich lower lands and prosper- 
 ous States ; — and second, the Illinois and Michigan 
 canal, rendering the great commercial valley of the 
 Illinois tributary to its commerce. By railways, 
 perfected and projected, it has, or will soon have, 
 connection with the Mississippi in its upper tributa- 
 ries and lead regions by way of the Milwaukee and 
 Mississippi, and Chicago and Galena lines. To the 
 eastward, by the Michigan Central and Southern 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 169 
 
 Railroad, it communicates with the lake shore road, 
 and thence with all the eastern lines from Buft'alo to 
 Boston. To the southward it will speedily be united 
 by the great system of projected railroads. 
 
 " A road is now in progress extending from Fort 
 Wayne, Indiana, to Mackinaw. From a recent re- 
 port made of this road, which will prove of vast 
 importance in developing the immense resources of 
 Michigan, we extract the following : — 
 
 "The distance from point to point, as measured by 
 the engineers, are as follow : 
 
 "From Fort Wayne to the 'Air-line Kailroad, In- 
 diana, 28 miles; the Air-line railroad, to Wolcottville, 
 6; Wolcottville to Lagrange, 10 ; Lagrange to Lima, 
 5: Lima to Sturgis, Mich., 5 J ; Sturgis to Mendon, 
 14 ; Mendon to Brady, 8 ; Brady to Kalamazoo, 12 ; 
 Kalamazoo to Grand Eapids, 47 ; Grand Rapids to 
 Laphamville, 13 ; Laphamville to Little Traverse Bay, 
 169 ; Little Traverse to the Straits of Mackinaw, 27. 
 Total ; 344. 
 
 " Tiie Avork of construction now performed, is 
 mostly between Wolcottville and Kalamazoo. Be- 
 tween Lagrange and Sturgis the earth-work and 
 bridges are nearly done — $1,500 will complete it for 
 the ties. About one-fourth of the earth-work, bridges 
 and ties, of the remainder of the line from Wolcott- 
 15 
 
i 
 
 170 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 vilie to Kalamazoo, is done. Between Kalamazoo and 
 Grand Rapids, work to the amount of $8,000 lias 
 been done. 
 
 " The construction of the road bed, bridging, ties, 
 ballasting, &c., from Kalamazoo to the north bunk 
 of the Muskegon River, one hundred and three miles, 
 is let to Daniel Beckel, Esq., of Dayton, Ohio. Near 
 two hundred hands are engaged on the work — on 
 the twenty miles north of Grand Rapids. It is the 
 intention of the company, as we are informed, to 
 complete this twenty miles early the coming sum 
 mer. 
 
 " We are informed by the annual report, that on 
 July 21st, $216,316 18 had been collected and ex- 
 pended. 
 
 " The land grant made by Congress is of great 
 value. The portion of the road to which it attaches. 
 extends from Grand Rapids to Little Traverse Bay ; 
 the precise length of which is, as adopted by the 
 proper departments at Washington, one hundred 
 and eighty-two miles and three thousand and sixty- 
 seven feet. Under the rules of adjustment adopteil 
 by the department, the quantity of lands granted 
 will be somewhere from 600,000 to 674,164 acres. 
 
 " These lands are generally timbered farm lands— 
 of the best quality, in limber, soil and water, ^oiiu' 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 171 
 
 arc pine lands, some pine and hard wood mixed ; and 
 a stniill portion are cedar swamp lands. But there 
 is none too much of either description for the value 
 of tlie lands and the prosperity of the country. 
 Niiture has distributed and interspersed them in such 
 proportions as will best contribute to the support 
 of u populous and well improved agricultural 
 country. The great bulk of these lands are what are 
 oenerally denominated ' beech and sugar-tree lands.' 
 The soil is generally rich sandy loam. The estimated 
 value of the lands, when the road is completed, has 
 been put, by different parties, from $4 to $10 per 
 acre. 
 
 " The lands granted are the odd numbered sections 
 within six miles of the line ; and if any such sections 
 are sold or pre-empted, then the company has the right 
 to select other sections outside of the six miles and 
 within fifteen miles of the road, to make up such 
 deficit. 
 
 '' The odd numbered sections, outside of the six- 
 mile limits, and within the fifteen-mile limits, arc 
 set apart to this company, out of which to select 
 lands to make up any deficit that may occur in the 
 six miles. 
 
 " By those best acquainted with the value of these 
 lands— and who arc familiar with that portion of the 
 
, 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 172 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 State — they arc estimated at $10 per acre, on the 
 completion of the road. This will give tlio compfmy 
 the sum of $6,600,000. And if the road when fiillv 
 equipped costs $30,000 per mile, then the gioH8 cost 
 will be $10,500,000 ; which by the proceeds ol tli.) 
 land grant will be reduced to the sum of $3,9UO,O0U, 
 and will reduce the actual cost of the road to $11, 
 142,85 per mile. Anything like fair success in the 
 construction of the road will enable the company to 
 do it, after applying the proceeds of the land grant, lui 
 about eleven thousand dollars per mile. Such a n suit 
 will not only give to the country all the advantages 
 of this much-needed work ; but when done the capi- 
 tal stock must prove to be a good paying invest- 
 mert." 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 * 
 
 Mackinaw, tho sito for u grt-jit central city — Th« Venice <>l 
 the lakes — Early im]>ortunce as a central position — Nicolijt 
 —Compared goograi illy with other points — Immense 
 chain of coast — Future prospects — Temperaturt- — Testi- 
 mony of the Jesuit fathers — Healtlifulness of the climate 
 —Dr. Drake on Mackinaw — Resort for invalids — Water 
 currents of commerce — Surface drained by them — Soil of 
 tlie northern and southern peninsulas of Micliigan — Physi- 
 cal resources — Present proprietors of Mackinaw — Plan of the 
 (tity — Streets — Avenues — Park — Lots and blocks for churches 
 and public purposes — Institutions of learning and objects 
 of benevolence — Fortifications — Docks and ferries — Mate- 
 rials for building — Harbors— Natural beauty of the site for 
 a city— Mountain ranges — Interior lakes — Fish — Game. 
 
 Ferris, in his " States and Territories of the Great 
 West," says : " If one were to point out, on the map 
 of North America, a site for a great central city in 
 the lake region, it would be in the immediate vicini- 
 ty of the Straits of Mackinaw. A city so located 
 would have the command of the mineral trade, the 
 tislicries, the furs, and the lumber, of the entire 
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 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 North. It might I ecome the metropolis of a great 
 commercial empire. It would be the Venice of the 
 Lakes." Mackinaw, both straits and peninsula, 
 was so naturally the key point of the great system 
 of northern lakes and their connection with the Mis- 
 sissippi, that while the New England colonies were 
 yet but infant and feeble settlements, the Indians 
 of the northwest, the Jesuit missionaries, the French 
 voyagers, all made Mackinaw the point from whence 
 they diverged — in all directions. When Philadel- 
 phia and Baltimore had not begun, and when the 
 sites of Pittsburg, Cincinnati, and St. Louis were 
 unknown places in the wilderness, Nicolet took his 
 departure from Quebec in search of the mysterious 
 river of the west. In passing to meet the Indians 
 at Green Bay, he was the first to notice the Straits 
 of Mackinaw. About thirty years after, James Mar- 
 quette established, on the northern shore of the 
 straits, the Mission of St. Ignace. Here, amidst 
 the wilds and solitudes of the North American for- 
 ests, and on the shores of its great inland seas, 
 Marquette and Joliet planned their expedition as we 
 have already described, and it was Mackinaw and 
 not New Orleans or New York that the lines ra- 
 diated from to the earliest settlements of the west. 
 Mackinaw presents one of the most remarkable 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 175 
 
 rjeographical positions on the earth. Constantinople 
 on the Bosphorus, the Straits of Gibraltar, Singa- 
 pore on the Strait of Malacca, and the Isthmus of 
 Panama, are the only ones which seem to present a 
 piirallel. The two former have been for ages re- 
 nowned as the most important in the commercial 
 world. Singapore has rapidly become the key and 
 centre of Asiatic navigation, at which may be found 
 the shipping and people of all commercial .nations, 
 and Panama is now the subject of negotiation among 
 the most powerful nations with a view to the ex- 
 ceeding importance of its commercial position. 
 Geographically, Mackinaw is not inferior to either. 
 From the northwest to the southeast, midland of the 
 North American continent, there stretches a vast 
 chain of lakes and river dividing the continent nearly 
 midway. This chain of Lakes and rivers is in the 
 whole nearly three thousand miles long. At the 
 Straits of Mackinaw the whole system of land and 
 water centres. The three greatest lakes of this sys- 
 tem, Superior, Huron, and Michigan, are spread 
 around, pointing to the straits, while between them 
 three vast peninsulas of land press down upon the 
 waters until they are compressed into a river of 
 four miles in width. On the north is the peninsula 
 of Canada, on the south that of Michigan, and on the 
 
% ■■ t 
 
 176 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 west that of the copper region, all of which are 
 divided only by the narrow Straits of Mackinaw. 
 Here are three inland seas of near eighty thousand 
 square miles and about five thousand miles of coast. 
 From coast to coast and isle to isle of this immense 
 expanse of waters, navigation must be kept up, in- 
 creasing with the ever-increasing population on 
 their shores till tens of millions are congregated 
 around. Of all this vast naviprtition and increasing 
 commerce, Mackinaw is the natural centre around 
 which it exists, and toward which it must tend by 
 an inevitable law of necessity. Superior, Huron, 
 and Michigan have no water outlet to each other 
 but that which flows through the Straits of Macki- 
 naw, and its geographical position is unrivaled in 
 America. Whoever lives twenty years from this 
 time will find Mackinaw a populous and wealthy 
 city, the Queen of the Lakes. 
 
 If any serious objection be made to the site of a 
 city at this place, it can only be that the climate is 
 .supposed to be cold. But, what is climate? Climate 
 is relative and composed of many elements. Tlie 
 first is temperature, as determined by latitude. The 
 Straits of Mackinaw are in the latitude of 45° 
 46'. North of this lies a part of Canada, containing 
 at least a million of inhabitants. North of this lati- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ^77 
 
 tudc lies the city of Quebec in America ; London, 
 Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin, Vienna, Warsaw, Copen- 
 hagen, Moscow, and St. Petersburg, in Europe; 
 Odessa and Astracan, in Asia. North of it, are in 
 Prussia, Poland, and Kussia, dense populations, and 
 a great agricultural production. The latitude of 
 Mackinaw, therefore, is in the midst of that temperate 
 zone, where commerce, population, cities, and the 
 arts have most flourished. The climate, however, 
 is actually milder than the latitude represents. The 
 isothermal line, which passes through Mackinaw, 
 also passes in Wisconsin, nearly as low as 43°, and 
 in the east also deflects south. This is the true line 
 of vegetation ; and thus it appears that the actual 
 climate of Mackinaw is about that of 43° 30'. The 
 same isothermal line, passes through Prussia and 
 Poland, the finest grain countries of Europe. The 
 climate of the straits is, therefore, as favorable as 
 that of most civilized States, either for the produc- 
 tion of food or the pursuits of commerce. 
 
 The Marquette Journal gives some items relative 
 to the winter of that locality. The mercury was not 
 below zero until the evening of January 8th, and 
 then only 2° below. The highest point reached in 
 January, was 20° above, and lowest 16° below zero. 
 In February, the highest point was 55° above, the 
 
178 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 lowest 20° below zero. The average tenipcrtituro 
 for the three winter months had beea about 15° 
 above zero. In tlie " Relations of the Jesuits," 3(1. vol- 
 ume, 1071, it is stated that that the "winter in Macki- 
 naw is short, not commencing until after Christmas 
 and closing the middle of March, at which time 
 spring begins." 
 
 The Lake Superior Journal for February 23, 185!>, 
 says : — 
 
 " We are now within five days of the first spring 
 month, and have scarcely had a brush of winter yet. 
 But very few days has the thermometer been below 
 zero, and but a single day as low as ten degrees be- 
 low. Most of the time it has been mild. For two 
 weeks past, there has been a blandness and mellow- 
 ness in the atmosphere, which was enough to cause 
 the moodiest heart to sing for joy. There was u 
 fture-up, however, for a single day (the 20th), when 
 the storm descended, the wind blew, and there was 
 great commotion in the elements, but the next day 
 all was calm and delightful as before. We have 
 quite a depth of snow on the grou.id, have had fine 
 sleighing since the 10th of November. But our bay 
 has not been closed more than a week at a time this 
 winter, and but a few days in all. It is open now, 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 '79 
 
 and 'the stern monarch of the year,' seems to bo 
 melting away into spring. 
 
 " In regard to the healthfuhiess of Mackinaw, it 
 may be remarked that the northern regions of the 
 earth are everywhere the most healthy. Yet there 
 are differences in situation and exposure which make 
 differences in health. Mackinaw has now been known 
 and settled for two hundred years, a period long 
 enough to have both tested its healthiness, and created 
 u permanent reputation. The Jesuit Missionaries, 
 the frontier traders, and the French voyageurs, have 
 lived and died there ; yet we have never heard of any 
 prevalent disease, or local miasm. It seems to have 
 been the favorite resort of all the frontiers men, who 
 inhabited or hunted in the region of the Northern 
 Lakes. In recent years, it has been visited by men 
 of science, and accomplished physicians, and their 
 report has been uniformly in favor of its superior 
 healthiness. Dr. Drake, who visited Mackinaw in 
 1842, for the express purpose of examining tlie cli- 
 mate and topography, says, " From this description, 
 it appears, that the conditions which are held to bo 
 necessary to the generation of autumnal i'ever, are 
 at their minimum in this place ; and when we consider 
 this fact, with its latitude nearly 46°, and its altitude 
 above the sea, from six to eight hundred feet, we are 
 
•< 
 
 
 180 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 prepared to find it almost exempt from that disease; 
 and such from the testimony of its inhabitants is the 
 fact, especially in reference to the intermittent fevers, 
 which, I was assured by many respectable persons, 
 never originated among the people, and would cease 
 spontaneously in those who returned, or came with 
 it from other places.' 
 
 "Speaking of this region as a place of resort for 
 invalids, the same writer says : 
 
 "'The three great reservoirs of clear and cold 
 water. Lakes Huron, Michigan, and Superior, with tbp 
 Island of Mackinac in their hydrographical centre, 
 offer a delightful hot-weather asylum to all invalids 
 who need an escape from the crowded cities, paludal 
 exhalations, sultry climates and officious medication. 
 Lake Erie lies too far south, and is bordered by too 
 many swamps to be included in the salutiferous 
 group.' 
 
 " ' On reaching Mackinaw, an agreeable change of 
 climate is at once experienced.' 'To his jaded 
 sensibilities all around him is fresh and invigorating." 
 Dr. Drake looked upon Mackinaw as one of the 
 healthiest portions of the whole Northwest, and to 
 which, in time, tens of thousands of persons, even 
 from the furthest south, would resort to be reinvi- 
 gorated in body, refreshed in mind, and delighted 
 with the contemplation of the sublime and beautiful 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 i8i 
 
 scenery in that region of expansive waters, of rocky 
 coasts, of forest-bearing lands, and distant islands. 
 
 " Here the great currents, which are the natural lines 
 of movement for the people, commerce, and produc- 
 tions of half North America, concentrate around a 
 single point. No other place has the same advan- 
 tage o( radial lines. Quebec is relatively on the At- 
 lantic. The upper end of Lake Superior is compara- 
 tively on an inhospitable land. Chicago is at a 
 lateral point on the south end of Lake Michigan, — 
 three hundred miles from the main channel of com- 
 merce. At Mackinaw concentrate all the radial 
 lines of water navigation in the upper lakes. Which 
 will be seen, if we take the following distances of 
 direct navigation from this point to the principal 
 points on the upper lakes : 
 
 " From Mackinaw to Fon du Lac (west end of Lake 
 Superior), 550 miles; to Chicago, 350; to ( • t end 
 of Georgian Bay, 300 ; to Detroit, 300 ; to Buffalo, 
 700; to Gulf of St. Lawrence, 1,600. 
 
 " Here are two important points to be observed. 
 Any city which, by competition, or the rivalry of 
 production, or the power of wealth, can be supposed 
 to interfere with the growth of Mackinaw, must arise 
 on Lakes Michigan or Superior; for there only can 
 be any commercial mart to receive and distribute 
 16 
 
l82 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 the products around those immense bodies of water. 
 But in consequence of the form and surface of those 
 lakes, no lines of transit to the waters of the St. 
 Lawrence can be made so short or cheap as tlio 
 water transit through the Straits of Mackinaw. The 
 concentration of products will, therefore, be ultima- 
 tely made at Mackinaw, for all that immense dis- 
 trict of country which lies around the upper lakes. 
 Again, it will be seen that as the water transporta- 
 tion to that point is the best, so the radial line from 
 that point to the Atlantic by water, is much the 
 shortest. A steam propeller, leaving any one of the 
 principal points on the upper lakes for either Bufthlo 
 or the Gulf of St. Lawrence, must, as compared with 
 Mackinaw, pa.ss over the following lines of transit, 
 viz.. From Fon du Lac (west end of Lake Superior) to 
 Buffalo, 1,250 miles; Chicago, 111., 1,000; Mackinaw, 
 Michigan, 700; Fon du Lac to the Gulf of St. Law- 
 rence, 2,150; Chicago to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
 1,900 ; Mackinaw to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 1,600. 
 " It must be granted, at once, that for any water 
 communication with the ports of the Atlantic, Mack- 
 naw has greatly the advantage over any commercial 
 point in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Northern Illinois, 
 Northern Michigan, or Northwest Canada. How 
 great this advantage is, we shall see from the con- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ■83 
 
 sideration of tho Hurfm'.c dniined by tlie water cur- 
 rent of Mackinaw. An inspection of tho map will 
 show that from Long Lake, ahove latitude 50°, 
 to tiie south end of Lake Michigan, below latitude, 
 40°, and from the Lake of the Woods, longitude 
 1)5'^, to Saginaw Bay, longitude 83°, the country is 
 entirely within the drainage of lakes and river whose 
 currents concentrate at the Straits of Mackinaw. 
 This surface comprehends a square of over six hun- 
 dred miles on the side, or nearly four hundred thousand 
 square miles. Deducting the surface of the lakes, it is 
 enough to make eight States as large as Ohio. In 
 that whole surface, there is not a single point which 
 can rival Mackinaw as a point of distribution for the 
 products of that country. That the advantage by 
 water lines is in favor of Mackinaw, we have shown. 
 That it will be equally so by railroad, is evident, from 
 the fact that Mackinaw city to Port Huron, and 
 thence to Buffalo, need not exceed four hundred miles, 
 while that from Chicago to Buffalo, in a direct line 
 is five hundred and fifteen miles. 
 
 " From any other point of Lakes Michigan or Supe- 
 rior, where a city can be built, it is further. Mack- 
 inaw is, therefore, the natural centre of drainage and 
 distribution for a surface equal to that of eight large 
 States, and whose products, whether of field, fruit. 
 
•<l' 
 
 184 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1 1 
 
 or mines, are superabundant in whatever creatos 
 cornmeree, sustains population, or alTords the ma- 
 terials of industry. 
 
 " Wo are now considering Mackinaw in a state of 
 nature, and must look to its natural products as the 
 tirst and greatest elements of success. We have con- 
 sidered its climate, its water currents, its lines of 
 navigation, and the surface drainage for its support. 
 The latter within a space where there can be no com- 
 petition, we have found to be but little less than 400,- 
 000 square miles. Vast as this is, it could not support 
 a great commercial city, if that were a barren plain. 
 " Hence, we must now consider how far the products 
 of the earth will sustain the city, which such lines of 
 navigation, such means of commerce, and such an 
 extensive surface leads us to anticipate. 
 
 " The soil is the first thing to be examined. The 
 peninsula of Michigan — that of Wisconsin and the 
 Copper region — of Minnesota and Canada, which 
 make up the larger portion of surface drained by the 
 currents of Mackinaw, has been supposed to be cold 
 and wet. But is it more so than northwestern Ohio 
 or northern Illinois, which, but twenty years since, 
 were scarcely inhabited, but now are found to aflbrd 
 some of the richest lands in the country ? On this 
 point, we have numerous and competent witnesses, 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 iR? 
 
 and whiitevor cliaructcr they give to tlio cjoiuitry, wo 
 shall adopt as the true criterion of its producing re- 
 sources. 
 
 " First of the Superior Country, the least agrieul- 
 tural portion of this district, we have the concur- 
 rent testimony of geologists, miners, settlers, and 
 tnivelers, that it is one of the richest mining districts 
 in the world. But in the midst of it are found some 
 fertile sections. Of these, Mr. Ferris, in his account 
 of the Great West, says : * The surveyors report 
 some good agricultural lands (of which many 
 townships are specially enumerated), and these tracts 
 of fertile land will become of great value, when the 
 rivers shall have been opened and a mining popula- 
 tion introduced, creating a sure and convenient home 
 market for the productions of the farm.' 
 
 ^'Distumell, an accurate authority, speaking of the 
 Superior region, says : ' The traveler finds the whole 
 district to within a few miles of Lake Superior, 
 abounding in every resource which will make a 
 country wealthy and prosperous. Clear, beautiful 
 lakes are interspersed, and these have plenty of large 
 trout and other fish. Water and water powers are 
 everywhere to bo found, and the timber is of the 
 best kind — maple groves, beech, oak, pine, etc. No 
 thing is now wanted but a few roads to open this 
 16* 
 
■t i-^ 
 
 186 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 m 
 
 rich country to the settler, and it will soon teem 
 with villages, schools, mills, farming operations, and 
 every industrial pursuit, which the more southern 
 portion of our State now exhibits.' 
 
 " Turning to the immen;>;:; territory north and north- 
 west of Superior and the Straits, now constituting a 
 portion of the British Dominions, and every part of 
 which must be tributary to Mackinaw, we find that 
 it affords, like Prussia and Poland, a fine agricultural 
 region for all the breadstuff's and vegetables which 
 are raised in the northern part of Europe. A writer 
 in the Toronto Globe, exhibiting the value of a canal 
 from Georgian Bay to Toronto — (a canal, the whole 
 commerce of which coming from the northwest, must 
 first have passed the Straits of Mackinaw) says: 
 'Westward we possess vast and fertile countries 
 adapted to all the pursuits of agriculture life, countries 
 susceptible to the highest cultivation and improve- 
 ment. Between Lake Superior and the Lake of the 
 Woods (above 49° of latitude), we possess a country 
 of this description, in soil and character inferior to 
 no part of Minnesota, and bordering upon this ter- 
 ritory lies the valley of the Assinibone, or the Eed 
 River, as it is sometimes called. As a wheat grow- 
 ing country, it will rival Canada. It does so now in 
 soil and climate.' The writer is here speaking of 
 British possessions north of Lake Superior, and 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 187 
 
 several degrees north of Mackinaw. He says they 
 are as fertile and grain -growing as Canada, and 
 Canada we know already produces not only its own 
 breadstuflfs, but large quantities for exportation. The 
 valley of the Assinibone, referred to, and the whole 
 region west of Superior to the Lake of the Woods 
 and the Red River, can have no market outlet ex- 
 cept through Lake Superior, and thence near the 
 Straits of Mackinaw. The writer sees this, and says : 
 'The future products of these immense countries 
 must seek the seaboard, and all the canals and rail- 
 roads which can be constructed will scarce suffice to 
 afford facilities for the products of the West.' 
 
 "Let us next examine the Southern Peninsula of Mi- 
 chigan. If the country far north of it is so productive, 
 it can scarcely happen that this can be very deficient, 
 although not ranked among the most fertile districts. 
 On this point, we need only cite the same accurate au- 
 thority to which we have referred. He says : ' The 
 numerous streams which penetrate every portion of 
 the peninsula, some of which are navigable for steam- 
 boats a considerable distance from the lake, being 
 natural outlets for the products of the interior, ren- 
 der this whole region desirable for purposes of set- 
 tlement and cultivation.' Even as far north as the 
 Straits of Mackinaw, the soil and climate, together 
 
i88 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 with the valuable timber, offer great inducements to 
 settlers ; and if the proposed railroads under the re- 
 cent grant of large portion of these lands by Con- 
 gress, are constructed from and to the different points 
 indicated, this extensive and heavily timbered re- 
 gion will speedily be reclaimed, and become one of 
 the most substantial and prosperous agricultural por- 
 tions of the West.' After speaking of the timber in 
 that country, the same writer adds : ' But as the tim- 
 ber is exhausted, the soil is prepared for cultivation, 
 and a large portion of the northern part of the south- 
 ern peninsula of Michigan will be settled and culti- 
 vated, as it is tlie most reliable wheat- groiving portion 
 of the Union.^ 
 
 The Detroit Daily Tribune of 1857, says :'' Michi- 
 gan is greatly undervalued because greatly unknown. 
 The tide of emigration sweeps past us to Illinois, 
 Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota, because the public 
 do not know — what is but the sober truth— that 
 Michigan possesses advantages unrivaled by any 
 sister State in the Northwest, and an undeveloped 
 wealth that will far exceed any one of those named. 
 This is not a random statement, originating in State 
 pride or self-interest, but the simple truth whi is 
 slowly being found out by the shrewd among men. 
 We propose to speak of some of the advantages 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 189 
 
 which we possess in the northern half of our lower 
 peninsula, as yet almost uninhabited and unknown. 
 
 " ' No other State can boast of such valuable 
 forests of such perfect timber. Already our lumber 
 trade exceeds in value and importance that in any 
 other staple products, not excepting wheat, while if 
 It were to increase in the ratio of the past five years, 
 ill five years more it would exceed all the other staples 
 united, excepting only copper. But such a rate of 
 increase would exhaust the pine timber to a great ex- 
 tent within ten years' time. Yet the demand for 
 pine lumber is absolutely unlimited, and cannot be 
 met. 
 
 " Look for a moment at the vast region depend- 
 ing upon the pineries of Michigan for its supply of 
 himber for building purposes of every kind — ^houses, 
 fence and shelter of every description. The great 
 States of Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, and the Terri- 
 tory of Minnesota, depend almost solely upon Michi- 
 gan, and must do so. The present season, lumber 
 has been taken from the forest of southwestern New 
 York and northern Pennsylvania, and sold in the 
 market of St. Louis, so urgent is the demand and so 
 entirely inadequate are the present or prospective 
 rates of supply for that demand. We have before us 
 the statistics of the lumber trade of the different 
 
l/ 
 
 190 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 States and the principal markets in the country, but 
 of what use is a parade of figures when a simple fact 
 will show that the value of the pine forest of Michi- 
 gan must be ? Take the State Iowa alone. If every 
 quarter section were to be enclosed with a common 
 post and board fence, it would take every foot of 
 pine G-* the soil of Michigan ! Leave out of sight 
 the great Territory of Minnesota, which can find but 
 a mere drop of supply from the pineries of the Up- 
 per Mississippi. Leave out of sight the great State 
 of Illinois, which depends upon us wholly. Forget 
 entirely that villages are springing up like magic all 
 along the lines of a dozen railroads running from 
 Lake Michigan to the Mississippi ; that cities are 
 growing and spreading with unprecedented rapidity 
 — and that every town and village, and city, and 
 farm, must have its dwellings, and that the cheapest 
 and best material for construction is pine. Leave all 
 these out of the calculation, and remember only that 
 one of these States would consume all our vast forests 
 of pine in fence hoards alone, and the dullest compre- 
 hension can perceive, with all these other demands 
 of which we have spoken, in all those other regions, 
 the value of the pine region is as certain as though 
 it were a gold mine. And when we consider 
 the pressing need for material whereof to build 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 191 
 
 over all the western prairies the wealth of 
 northern Michigan cannot be put at any low amount. 
 It must be immense — untold. 
 
 "After the timber shall have been removed in 
 obedience to the pressing demands of a cash market 
 and high prices, the value of northern Michigan will 
 just begin to be developed. The soil possesses riches 
 of which the heavy growth of timber is the outcrop- 
 ping. Eich as any prairie land, even more substan- 
 tial in the elements of fertility, with a genial climate, 
 southern Michigan, itself a garden, we predict will 
 have to yield the palm of productive wealth to this 
 portion of the State. Any one who will take the 
 trouble to examine a map of this half of the State, 
 projeotQ^ on an extended scale, cannot fail to be 
 struck with the superabundant water privileges that 
 exist. It is literally covered with navigable rivers, 
 and their tributaries, large streams, like the veins in 
 the human system. These waters reach the remotest 
 part and thread every portion, affording unfailing 
 supplies and thousands of valuable sites for mills of 
 every description and of all magnitudes. The State 
 is divided near its geographical centre by a slight 
 ridge, sufficient to divide the course of its streams. 
 Two of the largest rivers of the State, the Manistee 
 
 and the Eastern Au Sauble, rise within about three 
 
"^ 
 
 i I'l 
 
 i:i';^ 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 192 
 
 miles of eacb other, run parallel, southward, for 
 twenty miles or more, approaching then within half 
 a mile of each other, then turning abruptly almost 
 due east and west, emptying into Lakes Michigan 
 and Huron respectively on almost the same parallel 
 of latitude. 
 
 " The Grand Traverse region, embracing the val- 
 ley of the Manistee, is also one of the finest agricul- 
 tural regions of the State ; lying in the northerly 
 portion, this region still has a mild climate, and the 
 finest grains and fruits are raised at the settlements, 
 as far north as the bay. 
 
 " Much might be said of other counties throughout 
 this region. The whole slope of the peninsula em- 
 bracing the courses of the Muskegon and Manistee 
 Rivers, and from Grand River to Mackinaw, is a re- 
 gion of rich soil excellent timber of all kinds, good 
 climate, and of easy access. 
 
 " The counties in the eastern part of the State, 
 Alpena, Alcona, Iosco, Arrenac, and others north of 
 Saginaw Bay, well situated, having a large extent of 
 coast on Lake Huron, are not so well adapted for 
 agricultural purposes, there is much good farming 
 land in them all ; but the forests of pine extending 
 to within a few miles of the coast, render them very 
 desirable. Alcona county, watered by Thunder Bay 
 
 ■'iliiu;.. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 »93 
 
 Eiver, with some smaller streams emptying into Lake 
 Huron, is almost wholly a pine region. Some of the 
 finest specimens of yellow, or Norway pine, in the 
 whole State are found in this country. The white 
 and yellow pine is nearly equally distributed in this 
 ret^ion, extending also into the counties south, and 
 reaching Eifle River in Saginaw and Arrenac coun- 
 ties, having an outlet on Saginaw Bay. 
 
 " This part of the State, upon whose advantages 
 we have not space to particularize as we would like, 
 will be very soon penetrated by railroads. 
 
 " There are three roads contemplated by the Act of 
 Congress granting lands to this State at its last ses- 
 sion. These, if built, will add more to the develop- 
 ment of the natural wealth of Michigan than any- 
 thing heretofore proposed in the way of public im- 
 provement. 
 
 "The different routes pass through some of the 
 best counties in the State, and the opening of such 
 thoroughfares will induce a tide of emigration, such 
 as will soon render northern Michigan what it ought 
 to be, one of the most important point in the West. 
 
 " The State of Michigan is in all respects more fa- 
 vorably situated than any of the Western States, 
 being surrounded by the lakes and with railroads 
 extending in every direction, affording the most ex- 
 17 
 
-iS"'^ I 
 
 194 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 traordinary opportunities to reach markets of every 
 class, great or small. 
 
 " With these natural advantages of transportation 
 considered with the immense natural resources of 
 this region (soil and timber) no one will doubt the 
 very great value of Michigan lands. 
 
 " Fruit of all kinds is abundant in every part of 
 this State. All our exchanges from the interior are 
 acknowledging presents of luscious peaches, plums, 
 pears, apples, etc., etc. This is as it should be. May 
 they all, each succeeding year, be remembered in 
 like manner. 
 
 " What is here said of the northern part of Michi- 
 gan, is directly applicable to Wisconsin, the north- 
 ern half of which must contribute directly to Mack- 
 inaw. Of the agricultural capacity of this new State, 
 we need say no more, than that it has already at- 
 tained half a million of inhabitants, and pours forth 
 its surplus products though the ports of Lake Michi- 
 gan. 
 
 *'0f Minnesota, and its productiveness, less is 
 known. As three-fourths of that rich and beautiful 
 country, and the regions around the heads of the Mis- 
 sissippi, must contribute to the commercial importance 
 of Mackinaw, let us glance at its agricultural capacity 
 and prospects. Minnesota, of which we heard but 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 '95 
 
 yesterday, lias now two hunrlrcJ thousand inhabi- 
 tants produces this year two millions of bushels of 
 wheat. St. Paul, its principal town has fourteen 
 thousand inhabitants, and far to the northwest 
 from St. Peters to the Red River, and Assinibone, 
 tlu; settlers are crowding in to till farms and create 
 towns, where but recently the wild wolf and tlie 
 wilder savage, alone possessed the face of the earth. 
 In latitudes higher than that of Mackinaw, Michigan 
 or Canada West, settlements are forming, and it re- 
 quires no flight of imagination to see that beautiful 
 land of lakes, rivers, forests, and prairies, — cold as it 
 may be in winter — settled, tilled, and civilized. The 
 fact of its rapid progress in population, is sufficient 
 proof of its agricultural capacity ; but we shall again 
 refer to the testimony of actual observers. Turning 
 to Mr. Ferris's first description of the Northwest, we 
 find his summing of the climate, and agricultural 
 advantages of Upper Minnesota. ' Minnesota is de- 
 tined to become a great agricultural, and grazing re- 
 gion. Its upland and lowland plains would support 
 a dairy that would enrich an empire. All the prin- 
 cipal grains, and roots thrive there in great vigor, 
 as high toward the north as Pembina, below the 
 dividing line between the United States and British 
 America. Latitude does not always indicate the 
 
k/) 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 climate as has already been sliown. The character 
 of the soil lias great influence upon the temperature 
 of tlio air. A quick warm soil makes a warin at- 
 mospherc. The autumns of Minnesota are greatly 
 lengthened out by the Indian summer, that smoky, 
 dreary, balmy season, which protects the surlhcc 
 from frost, like a mantle flurjg upon the; caith. 
 The cold nips the vegetation, about as early aloiitr 
 the Ohio, as along the St. Peters. The winters of 
 Minnesota arc cold ; but then they are still and calm, 
 and the icy air does not penetrate, as it does in a 
 windy climate.' 
 
 " In the brief review of the agricultural advantages 
 of that great northwestern region, whose centre of 
 commerce must ever be at Mackinaw ; we have ar- 
 rived at the certain fact, that except small portions 
 of the Superior country, where raining and mines 
 absorb all other interests, no country in the northern 
 part of America or Europe, has greater advantages. 
 It is filled with inexhaustible springs, and streams; 
 fertile in soil, rich in production, and only needs tjie 
 cultivating hand of man, to render it capable of sus- 
 taining such dense populations as now inhabit the 
 same isothermal parallel in Prussia and Poland. 
 
 "Let as now turn to its forests, mines, fisheries 
 and resources, which though not bread, are those 
 
pill Mackitiavv. 
 
 '97 
 
 from which tlui implotneiits, conveniences, jind much 
 ,il the wcaltli of civili/iation is derived. Of forests, 
 tiirnisliing almost illimitable (juantitics of timber and 
 liiinber — this is the very centre. Of this, we have 
 tviilonce in the wharves of Chicago, Milwaukee, 
 Detroit, and far down the lakes. The testimony of 
 actual observers on this point, is so strong as to seem 
 iihnost incredible. We shall cite but two or three 
 unquestionable authorities. The peninsula, of Michi- 
 gan is at the present moment, one of the greatest 
 depositories of lumber in the world. Mr. Ferris 
 says : ' On going toward the north, the lumber be- 
 comes more and more plentiful. Beeches begin to 
 mingle with the oaks, and in a day or two beeches and 
 maples will predominate over other varieties of tim- 
 bers ; large white-woods and bass-woods will be seen 
 towering above the forest. The white ash, the shag 
 bark, the black cherry, will have become abundant. 
 The woods will seem to have been growing deeper 
 and denser every mile of the way. Soon the travel- 
 er will doubt, whether Omnipotence himself could 
 have planted the trees larger, taller, and thicker to- 
 gether, than they are.' 
 
 "Pressing still forward, the emigrant will enter 
 the great pine woods of the north. For a while, 
 however, before reaching them, he will have been 
 17^ 
 
t' 
 
 198 
 
 Old Markinaw." 
 
 wandering througli grovos of oak, and along tlic 
 bordoi'H of natural meadows, and through elutnps 
 ot'bceoli and maple. But soon, as with a single step, 
 the timber has beeome all pino — y.ollow pine, nionn 
 ing overhead, darkening all the ground, shutting out 
 the sun, shutting out the wind." The tall trunks 
 support the dark green eanopy full fifty feet abovr 
 the earth. This belt of pine woods, stretehcs across 
 the peninsula of Michigan from Saginaw Bay. After 
 a while as you proceed further to the north, the 
 pine grows thinnor, and is succeeded by other tiiii 
 ber. " The level lauds again become covered witli 
 beech and maple, of a full and convenient growtli, 
 with here and there a gigantic Norway pine, six 
 feet through without limb, till it begins to stretch up 
 half its length above the surrounding trees. 
 
 In northern Wisconsin, wo find another great 
 pinery, in which, in one year, was sawed not less 
 than two hundred millions of feet of pine timber 
 The same authority to which we have frequently re- 
 ferred, says : " Still further north and northwest, is 
 one of the finest tracts of pine land in America, 
 through which the streams tumbling down frequent 
 falls, afford an incalculable amount of water-power, 
 just where it is most needed for the manufacture )f 
 lumber. The Wisconsin forest of ever-greenfi is 
 
0\(\ Mackinaw. 
 
 u» 
 
 porfootly irnirioiisc, (M>voniig <->iHvthinl the Stato. 
 Tlu' priiiries of the I'ihum- WiscDiiHiu and its tribu- 
 taries, are at tho present most t^KtcMisivu, unci tluwo 
 iiro distinguished still niort; lor tlio fine quality^ 
 than for the inexhaustible (junntities of the tim- 
 ber." 
 
 In the same manner, an immense t'ovest extends 
 over the upper part of* Minnesota, while far to the 
 northwest in the British possessions, extend deep 
 forests of pine, spruce, and hemlock. It is evident, 
 therefore, that on the great current of the Straits of 
 Mackinaw, there will float for generations to (5ome. 
 all the timber and lumber, which arc necessary for 
 the markets of commerce, or the uses of a growing 
 population. 
 
 Nor are the fisheries to be neglected, in any right 
 estimate of the natural resources of that region. 
 Not only do the one hundred thousand square miles 
 of lakes and streams, furnish illimitable quantities 
 of fish ; but they furnish varieties, which are no- 
 where else to be found, and which an epicurean taste 
 has long since pronounced among the richest luxu- 
 ries of the palate. The lake trout, the Mackinaw 
 trout, the Muskeluuge, and the white fish, are cele- 
 brated throughout America. Good fishing grounds 
 occur all along the north shore of Lake Superior, 
 
iC'^'n 
 
 200 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 affording a bountiful supply. On the south shore, 
 there are fisheries at White Fish Point, Grand 
 Island near the Pitcairn's Rodes, Keweenaw Point, 
 La Point, and Apostles' Islands, and at differ- 
 ent stations on Isle Royal, where large quan- 
 tities are taken and exported. Mackinac Island 
 alone exports yearly a quarter million of dollars' 
 worth. 
 
 The site of Old Mackinaw, now the county seat 
 of Emmet county, and its surroundings, belonged to 
 the Government of the United States until the year 
 1853, when Edgar Conkling, Esq., of Cincinnati, real- 
 izing its importance as a vast commercial centre, and 
 one of the finest positions for a great city, formed 
 a company consisting of seven persons, and entered 
 at the Land Office in Ionia, Michigan, near one thou- 
 sand eight hundred acres. In 1857 that portion em- 
 bracing the ancient site of Old Mackinaw was sur- 
 veyed and divided into lots. Mr. Conkling has, re- 
 cently, become the sole proprietor of the city, and 
 intends devoting his energies to its development. 
 A pamphlet, published some time since, describes it 
 as follows : 
 
 "The streets of the city are laid out eighty feet in 
 width, and the avenues from a hundred to a hun- 
 dred and fifty feet respectively. In the deed of 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 201 
 
 dedication to the public, of these streets and avenues, 
 provision is made for side-walks lifteeu feet in width 
 on each side, to be forever unobstructed by improve- 
 ments of any kind, shade trees excepted, thus secur- 
 ing a spacious promenade worthy of a place destined 
 to become a principal resort for health and pleasure. 
 Provision is also made for the proper use of the 
 streets and avenues by railroad companies adequate 
 to the demands of the business of a city. The lots, 
 with the exception of those in fractional blocks, are 
 fifty by one hundred and fifty feet, thus affording 
 ample room for permanent, convenient, and orna- 
 mental improvement. 
 
 The park, now laid off and dedicated to the city, 
 embraces the grounds of Old Fort Mackinaw, sacred 
 in the history of the country. These grounds, now 
 in their natural condition, are unequaled for beauty 
 of surface, location, soil, trees, etc., by any park in 
 any city in the country, and when the skillful hand 
 of the horticulturist has marked its outline and 
 threaded it with avenues and paths, pruned its trees, 
 and carpeted its surface with green, it will present 
 the very perfection of all that makes a park delight- 
 ful. The character of the soil, being a sandy loam, 
 with sand and gravel underlying it, renders it" cap- 
 able of the easiest and most economical improve- 
 
202 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 merit, securing walks always dry, hard, and smooth. 
 The park, with suitable blocks and lots for county 
 and city purposes, such as public buildings, scliool- 
 houses, etc., will be duly appropriated to those uses, 
 whenever the proper authorities are prepared to select 
 suitable sites ; and lots for churches, institutions of 
 learning, and charity, will be fully donated to parties 
 contemplating early improvements. Thus the proprie- 
 tor proposes to anticipate, by avoiding the errors of 
 older cities, the wants of Mackinaw city in perpe- 
 tuity, and free forever its citizens from taxation for 
 any grounds required for the public good. He also 
 designs to place it in the power of the General 
 Government, to secure, by like donation at an early 
 day, the grounds necessary for such fortifications as 
 the wants of the country and commerce may require, 
 on the simple condition of speedy improvement. 
 This liberal policy will best promote the true inter- 
 ests of the city and country, and at the sam^^ time 
 be productive of pecuniary profit to the proprietors 
 and all who may make investments at that point. 
 
 The proprietor intends also to expend a large por- 
 tion of the income from sales in providing for the 
 public wants by the construction of docks at the 
 most important points, and the establishment of 
 ferries, for which he has purchased the land on 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 203 
 
 the opposite side of the straits. He intends to 
 make loans also, as his means will justify, to aid 
 parties in the establishment of manufactories. 
 
 Building materials of great variety and in abund- 
 ance are at hand. Lumber can be had for the mere 
 cost of preparation, and the soil, at no distant point, 
 is suitable for making bricks ; while for immediate 
 use, Milwaukee can furnish the articles of the best 
 kind in any quantities. The shores of Lake Supe- 
 rior abound with exhaustless quantities of granite, 
 sandstone and marble ; the limestone and sand are 
 on the spot. 
 
 Three fine harbors adjoin Mackinaw ; the one on 
 the east being the most spacious, and the best pro- 
 tected. The new United States charts show the 
 depth of water sufficient for vessels of the largest 
 size navigating the lakes. As many as thirty ves- 
 sels have been at anchor in this harbor. The coun- 
 try in the rear of Mackinaw rises gradually until, at 
 the distance of a mile or two, it rises into an eleva- 
 tion of high table land, from points of which there 
 is a fine view of the straits and surrounding islands. 
 A mountainous ridge extends up to within two 
 miles of Mackinaw, covered with a dense forest of 
 hard wood. The southern extremity of this range 
 reaches to the head waters of the Grand and Sagi- 
 
■m 
 
 ■J 
 
 204 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 navv rivers. From two to ten miles south of Macki- 
 naw are several beautiful lakes, surrounded by a 
 rich, warm soil of great fertility and covered with 
 a heavy forest of hard wood, some of which has 
 attained a gigantic growth. These lakes abound 
 with fish of different varieties. Turtles have been 
 taken from them, measuring from one and a half to 
 two feet in diameter. Almost every kind of game 
 can be found in the woods bordering upon these 
 lakes, such as the black bear, raccoon, martin, fox, 
 lynx, rabbit, ducks, partridges and pigeons. 
 
 11^^ 
 
 1 Wi: 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 The entrepot of a vast commerce — Surface drained — Superi- 
 ority of Mackinaw over Chicago as a commercial point — 
 Exports and imports — Michigan the greatest lumher-grow- 
 ing region in the world — Interminable forests of the 
 choicest pine— Facilities for market — Annual product of the 
 pineries — Lumbering, mining and fishing interests — Inde- 
 pendent of financial crises — Mackinaw, the centre of a great 
 railroad system — Lines terminating at this point — North 
 and South National Line— Canada grants — Growth of north- 
 western cities — Future growth and prosperity of Mackinaw — 
 Chicago — Legislative provisions for opening roads in Michi- 
 gan—The Forty Acre Homestead Bill — Its provisions. 
 
 The physical resources of this region are of 
 such a nature and variety as to make Mackinaw 
 city the entrepot of a vast commerce. This will 
 appear, if we consider that it is the nearest point of 
 that extensive district, including the entire north of 
 the lakes inaccessible to Chicago. When all the 
 lines of internal communication are completed, and 
 the different points on the lakes settled down upon, 
 1 8 (205) 
 
t 
 
 206 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 then the real limits of Mackinaw will drain a 'rpn. 
 graphical surface of three hundred thousand square 
 miles; deducting the surface of the lakes from 
 which, there will remain two hundred and eigjity 
 thousand square miles of country, with all the re- 
 sources of agriculture and mining in the most (ex- 
 traordinary degree. It will be nearly three-fold 
 that which can be drained by Chicago, and in point 
 of territory, whether of quantity or quality, Macki- 
 naw is vastly superior, as a commercial point. With 
 the exception of a small portion of the mineral re- 
 gion, the agricultural advantages of Michigan, Up- 
 per Wisconsin, Minnesota, Canada West, and the 
 Superior country, are at least equal, at the present 
 time, to the district shipping at Chicago, while it is 
 more extensive, and will have a large home market 
 in a country affording diversity of employment. 
 Nothing can be more obvious, than the superior ad- 
 vantages of Mackinaw, as a manufacturing point, 
 over any other on the lake coast. 
 
 The value of exports and imports which flow 
 through the Straits of Mackinaw and the Saut 
 St. Mary was estimated a year or two since at 
 over one hundred millions 0/ dollars. But, who can 
 estimate a commerce which every year increases in 
 many fold ? In 1856, there were sent through the 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 207 
 
 St. Mary Canal 11,000 tons of raw iron, 1,040 tons 
 of blooms, and 10,452,000 lbs. of copper ; and the 
 commercial value of what passed tlirougli the canal 
 amounted to upward $5,000,000. But perhaps tlic 
 most correct idea of the rapid increase of conunei\5e 
 in Lake Superior may be taken from the arrivals 
 at Superior City for the last three years, taken from 
 the Superior Chronicle of January, 1857. 
 
 In 1854 there were two steamboats and five sail 
 vessels. In 1855 there were twenty-three steamers, 
 and ten sail vessels ; and in 1856 forty steamers and 
 sixteen sail vessels. 
 
 We thus see that in three years the increase was 
 seven-fold. It is scarcely possible to imagine the 
 limits of northwestern commerce on the lake, when 
 a few years shall have filled up with inhabitants the 
 surrounding territories. 
 
 According to the testimony of Senator Hatch, 
 made on the floor of Congress on the 25th of Feb- 
 rury, 1859, there were over one thousand six hun- 
 dred vessels navigating the northwestern lakes, of 
 which the aggregate burden was over four hundred 
 thousand tons. They were manned by over thirteen 
 thousand seamen, navigating over five thousand 
 miles of lake and river coast, and transporting over 
 six hundred millions of exports and imports, being 
 
208 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 greater than the exports and imports of the United 
 States. 
 
 The State of Michigan is the greatest hunlxT- 
 growing region in the world, not only on account of 
 its interminable forests of the choicest pine, but in 
 the remarkable facilities for getting it to market. 
 With a lake coast, on the lower peninsula alone, of 
 over one thousand miles — with numberlcvss water- 
 courses debouching at convenient distances into lu-r 
 vast inland seas — she enjoys advantages whicli 
 mighty empires might envy. Her white-winged 
 carriers are sent to almost every point of the eom- 
 pass with the product of her forests, which, wherever 
 it may go, is the sign of improvement and progress, 
 while by the large expenditures involved in the ma- 
 nufacture, and the employment of thousands of 
 hardy laborers, the general prosperity is materially 
 enhanced, and a market opened within her own bor- 
 ders for a considerable share of the surplus produc- 
 tion of her own soil. 
 
 The annual product of the pineries alone amount 
 to the sum of ten and a half millions of dollars. The 
 lumbering, mining, and fishing interest combine to 
 furnish by far the best home market in the Union, 
 and one which in seasons when a large surplus is 
 not compelled to seek a market, can boast its inde- 
 
Old Mackinaw 
 
 209 
 
 pendence of the " bulls" and " bears" of the grtH 
 commercial metropolis. The dense forests in the inte- 
 rior of the State have not yet been reached, and when 
 the contemplated roads are made, a field will be pre- 
 sented for the investment of capital of a most remu- 
 nerative character 
 
 The government has already taken such steps as 
 will soon make Mackinaw the centre of a great rail- 
 road system. We need only refer to the actual facts 
 in order to make this clear. Congress, by an act 
 passed in 1855-6, granted to the State of Michigan 
 a large body of land for railroad purposes, designat- 
 ing four routes. 1. From Little Noquet Bay to Mar- 
 quette, in the Superior country. 2. From Amboy, 
 on the State-line of Ohio, through Lansing to or 
 near Mackinaw. 3. From Grand Eapids to Macki- 
 naw. 4. From Grand Haven to Port Huron. It 
 will be seen that this plan is formed on the basis of 
 a direct line from Lake Superior through the mine- 
 ral regions to Lake Michigan. The law fortunately 
 permitted the last two companies to make their lines 
 at or near Traverse Bay, and as Mackinaw is but 
 comparatively a short distance, both companies have 
 wisely concluded to terminate their lines at Macki- 
 naw. It is at once evident that the Michigan line, 
 centering at Mackinaw, must be met there, by rail- 
 18* 
 
210 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 roads penetrating various sections of the northern 
 peninsula. This is evident, and we understand is 
 already foreseen, and measures will be adopted to 
 accomplish that end. In the mean time, let us ex- 
 amine the prospects and influence of the two lon<' 
 lines of Michigan railway terminating at Ma(;kiniuv. 
 The whole amount of land gi anted to the Michigan 
 railways is estimated to be about 3,880,000 acres. 
 From this, however, there will be some deduction in 
 consequence of lands already selected, and w'lich may 
 not be supplied by the quantity within the limited 
 distance. The deficiency will not be great, and we 
 understand that the amount estimated for the two 
 Mackinaw roads will scarcely be less than two mil- 
 lions of acres. Of the quantity and value of these 
 lands, we give the estimate made by these roads, as 
 well as the cost of construction. The estimate made 
 by the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad is as 
 follows : 
 
 " The proximity to lake navigation ; having sev- 
 eral navigable rivers passing through them, the 
 abundance of hydraulic power, the healthfulness 
 of the climate, the fertility of the soil; and lying 
 immediately on the line of this road, are facts which 
 contribute to enhance the value of these lands. 
 
 " The length of this road from the Straits of Macki- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 211 
 
 naw to Fort Wayne, will be about three hundred 
 and fifty miles. ]f the company meet with as good 
 success as the merits of the enterprise deserve, the 
 entire cost of the road should not be over $25,000 
 per mile, which makes an aggregate sum of $8* 
 759,000." 
 
 On the supposition that the minimum amount of 
 land is obtained and sold, at half the price above 
 stated, there will yet be broad enough basis to se- 
 cure the construction of the work. 
 
 The Amboy and Lansing Company are equally 
 confident of success. They have also located a large 
 quantity of land, and expect their value to be equi- 
 valent to the construction of their road. Accord- 
 ingly, they have put a portion of their road under 
 contract, and have obtained large local subscrip- 
 tions. 
 
 Both these lines of railroad will terminate at 
 Mackinaw, on the north, and Cincinnati on the 
 south ; hence they will be carried south till they ter- 
 minate at Norfolk, Charleston, Savannah, and Pen- 
 sacola, thus forming the grandest and most exten- 
 sive system of railroads on the continent. Nothing 
 in America equals it — nothing in Europe can com- 
 pare with it 1 When all the links shall have been 
 
212 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 completed, it will stand out tlio greatest moniunent 
 to human labor and genius which the world presents. 
 
 The single line from Mackinaw to Pensacola lias 
 been looked upon as one of the most important un. 
 dertakings of the age. We extract from the " Ex- 
 positon of its Plan and Prospects," by K. 1). Mans- 
 field, Esq., some of the facts, which exhibit its 
 importance, and bearing, and influence on Mackinaw 
 City. 
 
 " To illustrate," says the Exposition, " the vahie 
 of this North and South National Line, by its power 
 of producing commerce, mark, in a tabular i'orni, 
 the natural products of each degree of latitude, 
 thus : — 
 
 States, 
 
 Latitude. 
 
 
 Productions, 
 
 Florida, - 
 
 ' 31 deg. - - Oranges. 
 
 ** 
 
 . 81 ' 
 
 
 
 • Sugar. 
 
 " 
 
 . 31 ' 
 
 
 
 ■ Cotton. 
 
 Alabama, • 
 
 32 ' 
 
 
 
 U 
 
 " . . 
 
 . 33 ' 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 u 
 
 . 34 ' 
 
 
 
 ' Cotton, Corn. 
 
 Tennessee, • 
 
 35 ' 
 
 
 
 « (( 
 
 u 
 
 36 ' 
 
 
 
 • Cotton, corn, tobac, iron. 
 
 Kentucky, ■ 
 
 . 37 ' 
 
 
 
 Corn, tobac, coal, iron. 
 
 " . . 
 
 . 38 ' 
 
 
 
 • Corn, wh't, cat. tob. h'rap. 
 
 Ohio, . - ■ 
 
 89 ' 
 
 
 
 • Corn, wh't. cat. h'gs,wine. 
 
!^lafes. 
 
 Lntitude. 
 
 " . . 
 
 - 40 " . . 
 
 « . . 
 
 - 41 " - . 
 
 Michigan, 
 
 - 42 " . . 
 
 " . . 
 
 - 48 '• . . 
 
 «' . . 
 
 . 44 " . - 
 
 " . . 
 
 . 45 " . - 
 
 << _ , 
 
 - 46 " . - 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 213 
 
 Produdinns. 
 
 Wh't, c/m, li'gs, cnt., flux. 
 
 Wheat, corn, cattle. 
 
 Wheat, cattle, hay, wool. 
 
 Pino, cedar, coal. 
 
 Pino, cedar, coal. 
 
 Pino, hemlock, cedar. 
 
 Pine, copper, lead, fish. 
 This Htatoment is enough to show an extraordi- 
 nary stimulus to commerce, on a line of railway. 
 Till! length of the entire line will be less than half 
 tliat whicli is proposed to bo made from Cincinnati 
 and other cities to San Francisco; yet, will pass 
 tiirough varieties of production, which that line 
 cannot have. In two days, every inhabitant on that 
 line may bo supplied, from their native source, with 
 sugar, cotton, corn, wheat, tobacco, iron, coal, lead, 
 copper, pine,' cedar, with wool, flour, hemp, and 
 fruits of every description ; with fish of the sea and 
 fisli of the lakes ; with bread, and oil, and wine ; in 
 fine, with everything that supports, clothes, or houses 
 man; with everything that supplies his wants, or 
 contributes to his material happiness." 
 
 It is obvious, that such a line of railroad as this — 
 peculiar in its resources, vast in its comprehensions, 
 and embracing in its grasp all the products of tro- 
 
-tn 
 
 214 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 pic or of temperate climes — must, of itself, rear, at 
 its termini, commercial towns of great importance. 
 But, this is nut all. The road from Grand Haven 
 to Port Huron will intersect the Amboy and Lans 
 ing line about mid-way, and then a railroad will at 
 once be made in the direction of the Canada lines 
 and Buflalo — completing the radii from the far 
 northwest through Mackinaw, to the eastern Atlantic. 
 The natural point of termini for the Northern Pa- 
 cific and Canada Eailroads is also at the Straits of 
 Mackinaw. The one giving financial strength and 
 business to the other, connecting Portland with the 
 mouth of Columbia by the nearest possible route. 
 
 Canada has already granted four million acres of 
 land to railroads running to Saut St. Mary. Those 
 having the management of the Northern Pacific 
 railroad will do well to consider the propriety of 
 co-operating and uniting with the Canada and Pacific 
 Eailroad at the Straits. 
 
 The following from the New York Daily News 
 is valuable in this connection. It is from the pen 
 of E. Conkling, Esq. : — 
 
 "You will please excuse me for calling your at- 
 tention, not to the importance of a Pacific railroad, 
 for that is conceded, and our country is suffering from 
 warn of it, but to the mode of getting the means to 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 215 
 
 construct the Northern Pacific railroad. I don't re- 
 member to have noticed as yet any allusion to this 
 method, or any other practical one, aud I trust you 
 will consider the suggestions, and add thereto any 
 other methods. 
 
 " The railroads now provided for and made to St. 
 Paul, and Crow Wing from Chicago and Milwaukee 
 will have exhausted local means, State aid and avail- 
 able land grants. However desirable it may be to 
 sustain those roads by a business beyond that, and 
 to the country beyond that, by extending the North- 
 em Pacific Railroad, yet for want of means it cannot 
 be done, unless foreign capitalists can be induced by 
 land grants, at least to invest sufficient to make the 
 road finally, and be made to see that their present large 
 unproductive investments in Canada railroads can 
 be made productive in the use of more of their 
 capital. 
 
 Canada railroads lie too far North to receive any 
 benefit in business from railroads terminating from 
 tbe northwest as far south as Chicago, and but little 
 from the railroads terminating at Milwaukee, as the 
 cost of transhipment and delay to cross by steam 
 ferry eight months yearly at Milwaukee with eighty- 
 five miles ferriage, must divert the trade and 
 travel either to the north or south end of Lake Mi- 
 
-fli 
 
 216 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 cliigan, and every year will render that delay and 
 cost more unpopular. And yet to get that trade the 
 Great Western Eailroad of Canada have permanently 
 invested $750,000, in the Detroit and Milwaukee 
 Railroad, and recently loaned a half a million more, 
 demonstrating the idea I shall advance, that to make 
 good present investments more means can he had. 
 The State of Michigan itself will furnish a good 
 trade to roads through it and to roads east of it. 
 
 "The Straits of Mackinaw is the great natural 
 ferry of about four miles wide for roads of Michigan 
 and Canada to centre, the point necessarily for the 
 passage of lake commerce, and for a large population 
 north of it to cross, naturally attracting and com- 
 bining elements of great importance to railroads. 
 
 " Land grants are now made to the straits from the 
 south. The Grand Trunk and Great Western Kail 
 roads of Canada can go to the Straits of Mackinaw. 
 aided by those grants. The Ottawa and Huron 
 Railroad to Saut St. Mary, may also go to the Straits, 
 aided by land grants from Saut St. Mary. From 
 there the three Canadian railroads, aided by land 
 grants yet to be made, can go to Crow Wing or near 
 there, and there form a junction with the Chicago 
 roads — thence to the Pacific, aided by land grants. 
 
 " By affording the Canada interest a chance for a 
 
01(1 Mackinaw. 
 
 217 
 
 portion of the Pacific trade, and thus making present 
 Canada investments profitable, it is made the in- 
 terest of foreign capitalists to make our Northern 
 Pacific railroad. 
 
 " This protective interest to Canada railroads is 
 the greatest inducement to be offered them. 
 
 " They will not invest in the road beyond Crow 
 Wing, simply for the sake of grants of lands, made 
 valuable only by the outlay of their money; even 
 should the lands finally redeem the previous outlay 
 for the road, that is no object, because the road will 
 not pay more than cost of running and sustaining it, 
 and if it should some beyond that, it will be frittered 
 away by bad management and stealing. At least it 
 is fair to suppose so, and hence they must be assured 
 of enough of land grants to finally make the road, 
 which of itself will pay nothing, only in the way of 
 affording the roads east of Crow Wing, owned b\^ 
 them, fair dividends. This consideration will of it- 
 self induce them to furnish capital to the Pacific, and 
 it is in the power of the government thus to interest 
 them. No other proposed route can claim foreign 
 aid because of such good reasons. Our government 
 can aid only in lands; in valueless lands she is or 
 may be wealthy. No bill can pass Congress, only 
 by affording equal aid in lands to the Northern, 
 19 
 
m 
 
 218 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Central and Southern routes, each standing on their 
 commercial merits before capitalists. 
 
 " The chance for us thus to enlist them, is but for 
 a limited time. Soon they will become committed 
 to the North Canada Pacific Koad, north of Lake 
 Superior, when they will not help ours, and thus 
 protract ours for want of means and competing road. 
 At present, two of the most important Canada roads 
 can be enlisted in the above views, because if the 
 Canada road north of Lake Superior is made, it will 
 divert the trade from them, they being too far south 
 to be benefited. But by going to the Straits of 
 Mackinaw, they secure a division of the "Western 
 trade — among the three roads. The road through 
 the mineral regions will develop that country and 
 afford a good market for the produce of the country 
 west of it. 
 
 " Chicago is no more on the direct route from the 
 East to Iowa, than is Mackinaw city on the direct 
 route to the northwest from New York. 
 
 " Lake Michigan naturally forces such a division 
 of the Western and Northwestern trade, and the 
 Strait of Mackinaw is most favorably situated for 
 crossing. Cars can be transferred by ferry boat 
 from point to point, without delay or cost of tran 
 shipment. 
 
 Mi 
 
0!d Mackinaw. 
 
 219 
 
 That country is nearer to market than any other 
 Western State; cheaper lands and good soil, and 
 healthy climate, and a superior wheat country, af- 
 fording employment in lumbering, fishing, mining, 
 manufacturing, &c., offering great inducements to 
 foreigners, and of interest to New York, to be set- 
 tled." 
 
 The history of the West has presented some re- 
 markable facts, contrary to the ordinary experience 
 of human progress. It is assumed, as an historical 
 fact, in European or Asiatic progress, that the growth 
 of towns and states must be slow. It requires gene- 
 rations to bring them to maturity, and even imperial 
 power has failed to create cities, without the aid of 
 time and gradual increase. But, this has been re- 
 versed in America. We cannot take it for granted 
 that because the natural site of a town is now 
 clothed with the forest, and remote from habitations, 
 that it will not become a prosperous city, within a 
 half-dozen years. For, we know that in the North- 
 west, cities have arisen on a substantial basis, to a 
 numerous population, in a space so brief that history 
 has no record of their existence, and the school maps 
 no name for the place of their being. 
 
 Chicago which commenced its growth in 1834, 
 had a population in 1857, of 100,000, Milwaukee in 
 
IJJC 
 
 220 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 twenty-one years rose to 50,000, St. Paul in fifteen 
 years to 15,000 ; Keokuk in eighteen years to 15,000, 
 Grand Rapids in twelve years to 8000 ; Saginaw city 
 in twenty-two year 4000, and Superior city in the 
 short space of two years to 4000. 
 
 We thus see, that, in the Northwest, cities do grow 
 up, in the midst of the wilderness, and the wilderness 
 itself soon blooms as the rose. To say, then, that a 
 point affording every natural and commercial ad- 
 vantage for the growth of a large city is not now a 
 city, is to say nothing against its position or pro- 
 spects. Within the memory of a generation the five 
 great States, (which have heretofore been termed the 
 Northwest,) contained less then a half a million of 
 people, and Cleveland, Toledo, Chicago, Milwaukee, 
 and St. Paul, were not even dots on the map of 
 States. A mission or a military fort was all they 
 could boast. These States now contain six millions 
 of inhabitants, and the towns on the lake shore two 
 hundred and fifty thousand. But to present the 
 point of growth, in the clearest point of view, let us 
 consider it dependent wholly on that of the surround- 
 ing country. This we can tell almost precisely. 
 We know the rate of growth in Michigan, Wisconsin, 
 Minnesota and Canada West. 
 
 Canada West in 1840, had a population of 640,000, 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 221 
 
 in 1850, of 982,0 X), and in 1857, 1,100,000, Michi- 
 gan in 1840, was 212,000, in 1850, 397,000, and in 
 1857, 700,000. Tlio population of Wisconsin in 
 1840, was 30,000, in 1850, it was 305,991, and in 
 1857, it was 600,000. The increase in Minnesota in 
 seventeen years was 200,000. 
 
 The annual increment from 1840 to 1850, was 
 50,000 pel- annum, or about six per cent. The an- 
 nual increment from 1850 to 1857, was 172,,000, or 
 about twelve per cent. The rdtio of increase is, 
 therefore, increasing, and we may assume it will not 
 be less than ten per cent, per annum till 1860. This 
 will give 3,380,000 for 1860, or fourfold the popula- 
 tion of 1840 ! At a diminishing ratio the territory 
 round Mackinaw will contain 5,400,000 in 1870, 
 and (8,000,000) eight millwns in 1880. The princi- 
 pal city of the district (wherever it may be) must 
 then contain about one hundred thousand inhabitants. 
 
 Of the cities and towns we have above enume- 
 rated, the greatest and most rapid in its development 
 is Chicago, whose first warehouse lot was sold in 
 1834, and which, in 1857, is said to contain near one 
 hundred thousand inhabitants. Let us, for a moment, 
 compare the material advantages and resources of that 
 place, with those of Mackinaw city. Dean Swift 
 said, that a large city must combine the resources of 
 19* 
 
222 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 agriculture, coinmcrco and manufactures. Cities 
 have risen, however, to large size almost exclusively 
 on commerce. Witness Tyre and Palmyra. But 
 commerce, we concede, when left to itself, is so fluc- 
 tuating, that the cities it builds, like Tyre and Pal- 
 myra, may, in the decay of commerce, be left to ruin 
 and desolation. Cities may, likewise, be built up 
 almost exclusively on manufactures, such as Bir- 
 mingham and Sheffield ; and it is quite remarkable 
 that the oldest and most stable cities have depended 
 largely on manufactures. Damascus, the oldest his- 
 torical city — which has resisted all the destructive 
 influences of time and revolution — has always been 
 a manufacturing town. Paris, Lyons, Lisle, the 
 great interior towns of France, depend very largely 
 on the manufacture of fine and fashionable articles, 
 distributed throughout Europe and America, Of the 
 great elements of civic success, we consider manufac- 
 tures the most important ; but, to make a city of 
 the first magnitude, it is obviously necessary to have 
 all the resources of food, industry and commerce. 
 Chicago is remarkable chiefly as a grain city — like 
 Odessa, on the Baltic. But, whence is the grain de- 
 rived? By the construction of railroads, at that 
 point, from Indiana, Illinois. Missouri, Wisconsin 
 and Iowa, the whole mass of surplus grain in that 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 2^3 
 
 region — amounting to more than twenty millions of 
 bushels per annum — havS been exported from Chicago. 
 But, this is the drainage of three hundred thousand 
 square miles, two-thirds of which will not export 
 through Chicago when railroads extend directly east 
 to Milwaukee, Superior and Mackinaw, from Wis- 
 consin and Iowa, and connect, from the south, at 
 Cairo, with Missouri and Illinois. Reduced to its 
 own proper limits, the agricultural resources of 
 Chicago must be confined to half the surface of Il- 
 linois, Missouri and Iowa, or about one hundred 
 thousand square miles. This is but little over one- 
 third the surface drained of agricultural products to- 
 ward the Straits of Mackinaw. Will it be said that 
 this new region of the Northwest is less productive 
 in agriculture ? The contrary, for the great element 
 of breadstuffs, is likely to be true. Attentive ob- 
 servers of agricultural production have remarked, 
 that the different grains produced most on the northei-n 
 edge of the belt, in which they will grow at all. Is it 
 not so in Europe? The isothermal line of Mackinaw 
 passes in the midst of those countries which alone 
 produce the surplus grain of Europe, viz., Prussia, 
 Pomerania, Poland, Southern Russia. As if to place 
 this beyond a doubt, the crops of Canada West have, 
 in fact, failed much less frequently than those of 
 
224 
 
 Olil Mackinaw. 
 
 Oliio, Indiana iind IHinois. In regard to agricul. 
 tural production, it will bo diflicnlt to show that tho 
 country drained by Chicago, has any advantage over 
 that which will be drained by the Straits of Mack- 
 inaw. 
 
 In regard to commerce — the natural position of 
 Mackinaw is far superior to Chicago. Mackinaw is 
 at the head of Lake Michigan— Chicago, at the foot, 
 Mackinaw is at the junction of three great lakes; 
 Chicago at the foot of one. Mackinaw will concen- 
 trate the navigation of eighty thousand square miles 
 of water surface; Chicago of twentij-four thousand, 
 Mackinaw is three hundred and fifty miles nearer 
 the Atlantic by water ; three hundred miles nearer the 
 upper extremity of the lakes, and as much nearer 
 any of the Eastern Lake ports which are points of 
 distribution. The comparison need be made no fur- 
 ther, for whoever looks upon the map will see, that, 
 while Chicago touches one end of a single lake, a 
 world of waters gather round Mackinaw. For an 
 internal water commerce, it has no equal. 
 
 It will be said, that railroads now carry commerce. 
 This is true, but, railroads do not carry commerce 
 over the surface of lakes, and the multiplication of 
 vessels on the lakes proves that that commerce will 
 ever be great and increasing. But what railroad 
 
01(1 Mackinaw. 
 
 229 
 
 commeroo can be greater than that wliieli will eon- 
 centrate at Mackinaw, when it connects, in a direct 
 lino, not only with the cities of the Ohio Valley, but 
 witli those of the far South. To Cincinnati, to 
 Louisville, to Charleston, Savannah, and Pensacola, 
 will the cars move, laden with the people and pro- 
 flncts of the North. Lastly, neither Chicago nor 
 any other point can be superior to Mackinaw in the 
 elements necessary to support manufactures, the 
 great support of cities, these elements we have already 
 exhibited in detail. Copper, iron, lead, coal, wood, 
 timber, bread, in fine, everything which can feed 
 machinery, give material for its work, or feed the 
 people vho gather in the great workshops of indus- 
 try, and distribute the products of labor. Here ma- 
 terials all lie near enough for the purposes of either 
 work or distribution. Birmingham, Manchester, 
 Lyons, and Cincinnati, have their materials no nearer. 
 There, if anywhere, is a site peculiarly proper for a 
 manufacturing town. 
 
 But, neither agriculture, commerce, nor manufac- 
 tures are the only things necessary to build up a 
 large city. Healthiness is more important than either. 
 Here again, Mackinaw has more advantage over 
 Chicago. Mackinaw has been proved by two hun- 
 dred years experience to be one of the healthiest 
 
226 
 
 OKI MackijviNV. 
 
 '^1 
 
 points in Ani(M'i(\'i. Clutjago is f^encrnlly hcaltliv^ 
 but in Hiibjoet to inor<KS(!Voroopi(louncs. 'I^lio (tliolcni 
 visited it In in 1882 and in 1841), with roarful force; 
 while its very low position and muddy streets ex- 
 l)()so its iidmbitants to those diseases which arise 
 iVotii damps. 
 
 The Legislature of Michigan, recently passed a 
 bill to provide for the drainage and reclamation of 
 the swamp lands of the State by a system of State 
 roads, accomj)anied by a lengthy and able report. 
 The bill provides among others, a road from Ionia 
 north to the straits, and thence to Saut St. Mary. 
 
 They also passed a bill entitled the " Forty Acre 
 Homestead Ac*.'' This act requires the commis- 
 sioners of the State Land office to issue a certificate 
 of purchase to every settler on the swamp lands be- 
 longing to the State, for forty acres of said lands, 
 whenever such settler shall have resided upon it for 
 five continuous years, and when he has drained tlie 
 same so as to comply with the provisions of the Act 
 of Congress making this grant to the State. Before 
 the settler can acquire the right thus to occupy and 
 drain any of the swamp lands, he is required to file 
 with the commissioner his application, accomp.inied 
 by an oath of his intention to settle upon and drain 
 it for the purpose of obtaining a title thereto. And 
 
Olil Mackinaw. 
 
 "7 
 
 he must also make oatli that ho is not already tlio 
 owner of forty acres of land in any State of the 
 United States. It is also expressly provided that ho 
 slmll not cut or carry away any timhcr from said 
 hiMcl, unless it bo to clear it for cultivation, under 
 sucli penalties as are now prescribed for trespassing 
 upon State lands. It will bo seen, therefore, that 
 the object of the law is to provide homes for the 
 homeless, and at the same time promote the actual, 
 permanent settlement of the northern portion of the 
 State. No man who possesses forty acres of land 
 either in Michigan or anywhero Ise, is entitled to 
 the benefits of the act. It is emphatically a law for 
 the poor man. To all such it secures a home, with- 
 out money and without price. All it requires of him 
 is to settle upon and cultivate it. How many are 
 there in Detroit and other portions of the State, who 
 will avail themselves of this beneficent republican 
 measure ?" 
 
iSvi' 
 
 CHAPTEK Xn. 
 
 The Great Western Valley — Its growth and population— Com- 
 parison of Atlantic with interior cities— Relative growth of 
 river and lake cities— Centre of population — Lake tonnage 
 — Progress of the principal centres of population. 
 
 The following chapter on the population and 
 growth of the Great Western Vallej' is taken from 
 De Bow's Eeview : — 
 
 The westward movement of the Caucasian brancli 
 of the human family from the high plains of Asia, 
 first over Europe, and thence, with swelling tide, 
 pouring its multitudes into the New World, is the 
 grandest phenomenon in history. What American 
 can contemplate its results, as displayed before 
 him, and as promised in the proximate future, with- 
 out an emotion of pride and exultation ? 
 
 Our nation has the great middle region of the best 
 continent of the world, and our people are descend- 
 ants from the most vigorous races. Western Europe, 
 (228) 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 229 
 
 over-peopled, sends us her most energetic sons and 
 daughters, in numbers augmenting with each suc- 
 ceeding decade. Asia is beginning to send forth a 
 portion of her surplus population to our shores. 
 Though of inferior race, the Eastern Asiatics are 
 industrious and ingenious cultivators and artisans. 
 A large influx of these laborers, though it may 
 lower the average character of our people, will, it is 
 hoped, in a greater degree elevate theirs ; and thus, 
 while adding to the wealth and power of a nation, 
 do something toward the general amelioration of 
 the race. While, then, we contemplate with patri- 
 otic pride the position which, as a nation, we hold 
 in the world's affairs, may we not indulge in pleasant 
 anticipations of the near approach of the time, when 
 the commercial and social heart of our empire 
 will occupy its natural place as the heart of the 
 continent, near the centre of its natural capabili- 
 ties ? 
 
 New York has long been, and for some decades 
 of years it will continue to be, the necessary chief 
 focal point of our nation. But, in all respects, it is 
 not the true heart. In its composition and dealings, 
 it is almost as much foreign as American. Located 
 on our eastern border, fronting the most commercial 
 :in(l the richest transatlantic nations, and of easy ac- 
 20 
 
230 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 i;''''; 
 
 cess to extensive portions of our Atlantic coast, it 
 is the best point of exchange between foreign lands 
 and our own, and for the cities of the sea border of 
 our Republic. As Tyre, Alexandria, Genoa, Venice, 
 Lisbon, and Amsterdam, in their best days, flour- 
 ished as factors between foreigners and the people 
 of the interior regions, whose industries were repre- 
 sented in their markets, so New York grows rich as 
 the chief agent in the exchange-commerce between 
 the ocean shores and the interior regions of our con- 
 tinent. As our numbers have swelled, since we be- 
 came a nation, from three and a half millions 
 to thirty millions, so New York, including Brooklyn 
 and other suburbs, has increased in population and 
 wealth still more rapidly, to wit, from twenty-five 
 thousand to more than one million. While the na- 
 tion has increased less than tenfold. New York has 
 grown more than four times tenfold. In 1790 the 
 city of New York contained thirty-three thousand, 
 and the State of New York three hundred and forty 
 thousand — the city liaving less than one-tenth of the 
 people of the State. 
 
 Believing that this most prosperous of the Atlan- 
 tic cities will be eclipsed in its greatness and glory 
 by one or moi*e of the interior cities of the great 
 plain, w'o liiive selected it as the champion of the 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 23' 
 
 Atlantic border, to hold up its progress during the 
 thirty years from 1830 to 1860, the most prosperous 
 years of its existence, in comparison with the pro- 
 gress, during the same period, of the aggregate cities 
 and towns of the plain. The result of our investi- 
 gation, the summing up, will be found in the follow- 
 ing table. It will be seen that many of the items 
 are put down in round numbers — no document be- 
 ing accessible or in existence to furnish the exact 
 number of many of the new towns, in 1830. The 
 estimate for 1860 may, in some instances, be above 
 the figures which the census will furnish, but the 
 ovcr-c '•iniate for 1830 is believed to be in a larger 
 prop ' ..ii to actual numbers at that time. Making 
 a liberal allowance for errors, the result of the ag- 
 gregate cannot be materially varied from that at 
 which our figures bring us : ^ 
 
 1830. 1860 Est. Increase. 
 
 New York, includiug Brook- 
 lyn and other suburbs 234,438 .... 1,170,000. . 5 times. 
 
 Cities and chief towns of the 
 great plain 270,094 .... 2,706,300 . . 10 " nearly 
 
 Leaving out the exterior cities of the plain, to 
 wit, New Orleans, Mobile, Galveston, Quebec and 
 Montreal, the comparison between New York and 
 
232 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 suburbs, and the interior cities of the plain will be 
 shown by the following figures : 
 
 1830. 1860 Est. Increase, 
 
 New York and accessories .... 234,448 .... 1,170,000 .... 5 fold 
 Interior cities and town of 
 the plain 172,000 2,346,000. . . 13 " 
 
 The five largest cities of the Atlantic border ex- 
 hibit a growth, as compared with the five largest 
 cities of the plain, as follows : 
 
 1830. I860 Est. 
 
 New York and dependencies 235,000 .... 1,170,000 
 
 Philadelphia " 170,000.... 700,000 
 
 Baltimore '• 83,000.... 250,000 
 
 Boston " 80,000 ,. 200,000 
 
 Charleston " 31,000 60,000 
 
 599,000.... 2,380,000 
 
 Cincinnati and suburbs 28,000 250,000 
 
 New Orleans " 47,000.... 170,000 
 
 St. Louis " 6,000.... 170,000 
 
 Chicago " 100.... 150,000 
 
 Pittsburg « 17,000.... 145,000 
 
 98,000 885,000 
 
 This table shows the five Atlantic cities to 
 have Quadrupled, and the five cities of the interior 
 plain have increased nine times. Is this relative 
 rate of increase of the exterior and interior cities 
 to be changed; and, if it is to be changed, when is 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 2,33 
 
 the change to commence ? We can foresee no cause 
 adequate to that effect, or tending toward it. On 
 the contrary, it seems to us certain as any future 
 event, that the rate of growth of the interior cities, 
 compared with those on the Atlantic border, will be 
 increased. 
 
 The proportion which their present numbers bear 
 to the numbers of the rural population does not ex- 
 ceed one to six, whereas the urban population of the 
 Atlantic border is not less than one to three of the 
 rural. This disproportion of city and rural popula- 
 tion will hereafter change more rapidly in favor of 
 the interior than the Atlantic cities, because of the 
 greater fertility of soil producing more food from 
 an equal amount of labor ; and also, by reason of the 
 more rapid growth of the general population, of 
 which an increasing proportion will prefer city to 
 country life. "Will it not be so ? "Will not the gene- 
 ral increase of population be greater in the interior 
 States? Will not the productions of the soil in- 
 crease faster ? And can there be a doubt that the 
 large disproportion in the distribution of the popu- 
 lation between city and country, in the interior, will 
 be lessened, so that, instead of being, as now, only 
 one to five or six, they will rapidly approach the 
 proportion of one to two or three ? Here, then, are 
 20* 
 
^34 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 the sources of superior increase so obviously true 
 as to need only to be stated to insure conviction. 
 
 Let us now compare the growth, for the thirty 
 years since 1830, of the five largest Atlantic cities, 
 with the five largest cities of the plain, and, by its 
 side, extend the comparison to 10, 15, and 20 of the 
 largest city of each section : 
 
 1830, I860 Est. 
 
 New York and accessories 235,000. . . . 1,170,000 
 
 Philadelphia " 170,000 700,000 
 
 Baltimore " 83,000 250,000 
 
 Charleston " 31,000 60,000 
 
 599,000 2,380,000 
 Increase 4 times. 
 
 1830. 1860 Est. 
 
 Cincinnati and suburbs 28,000 .... 250,000 
 
 New Orleans " 47,000. . . .270,000 
 
 St. Louis " 6,000.... 170,000 
 
 Chicago " lOOw. 150,000 
 
 Pittsburg " 17,000.... 145,000 
 
 98,000 2,885,000 
 Increase 9 times. 
 
 Let us now compare the ten largest of each sec- 
 tion. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 235 
 
 Atlantic. 
 
 1830. 1860 Est. 
 
 The aggregate of the five largest 
 
 as above 579,000. . . . 2,370,000 
 
 Providence 17,000 55,000 
 
 Lowell 6,500 40,000 
 
 Washington 19,000. . . . 60,000 
 
 Albany 24,000. . . . 65,000 
 
 Richmond 16,000.... 35,000 
 
 661,00v/ 2,625,000 
 Increase 4 times. 
 
 Inlerior. 
 
 1839. I860 Et)t. 
 
 Aggregate as above 98,000 885,000 
 
 Buffalo 9,000. . . . 100,000 
 
 Louisville 10,500. . . . 80,000 
 
 Milwaukee 50 75,000 
 
 Detroit 2,000. . . . 80,000 
 
 Cleveland 1,000. . . . 70,000 
 
 120,550 1,290,000 
 Increase 10 7-10. 
 
 Aggregate of the ten, with five more of each sec- 
 tion added, added, to wit : 
 
 1830. 1860 Ext. 
 
 Aggregate as above 661,000 .... 2,625,000 
 
 Troy 11,500.... 35,000 
 
 Portland 12,500. . . . 30,000 
 
 Salem 14,000.... 25,000 
 
 New Haven 10,000 30,000 
 
 Savannah 7,500 15,500 
 
 716,500 2,760,500 
 Increase 3 8-10 times. 
 
236 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 I8SO. I860 EM. 
 
 Aggregate us above 120,550. . . . 1,290,000 
 
 Toronto 1,700 65,000 
 
 Rochester 9,000.... 50,000 
 
 Mobile 3,000 30,000 
 
 Memphis 1.500.... 25,000 
 
 Hamilton 1,500 .... 25,000 
 
 137,000.... 1,485,000 
 Increase 10 7-10 times. 
 
 Aggregate of the fifteen, with five more added in 
 each section : 
 
 1830. IbtWEst. 
 
 Aggregate as above 716,500 .... 2,760,500 
 
 Springfield, Mass 7,000 24,000 
 
 Worcester, " 4,500.... 24,000 
 
 Bangor, Me 3,000 23,000 
 
 Patterson, N. J 5,000. . . . 22,000 
 
 Manchester, N. H 50 22,000 
 
 736,500.... 2,875,;-)00 
 Increase 3 8-10 times. 
 
 1830. 1860 Est. 
 
 Aggregate as above 137,250 1,485,000 
 
 Dayton 3,000 24,000 
 
 Indianapolis 1,500.... 22,000 
 
 Toledo 30.... 20,000 
 
 Oswego 3,200.... 20,000 
 
 Quincy 1,500. . . . 20,000 
 
 149,700.... 1,591,000 
 Increase 10 6-10 times. 
 
 From the above tables, we see that the city of 
 
1860 E»t. 
 
 . . 1,290,000 
 . . 65,000 
 . . 50,000 
 . . 30,000 
 . . 25,000 
 . . 25,000 
 
 . . 1,485,000 
 7-10 times. 
 
 addeci 
 
 in 
 
 ISWEst, 
 
 .2,760,500 
 . 24,000 
 24,000 
 23,000 
 22,000 
 22,000 
 
 ..2,875,500 
 -10 times. 
 
 I860 Est. 
 
 1,485,000 
 24,000 
 22,000 
 20,000 
 20,000 
 20,000 
 
 .1,591,000 
 -10 times. 
 
 city of 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 237 
 
 New York, with its neighboring dependencies, will 
 have made in growth in thirty years, between 1830 
 and 1860, increasing its population 5 times. During 
 the same period, 
 
 The 5 largest Atlantic cities and suburbs, in- 
 cluding New York, increased 4 1-10 times. 
 
 The 10 largest. Atlantic cities and suburbs, in- 
 cluding New York, increased 4 ** 
 
 The 15 largest Atlantic cities and suburbs, in- 
 cluding New York, increased 3 8-10 " 
 
 The 20 largest Atlantic cities and suburbs, in- 
 cluding New York, increased 3 8-10 " 
 
 And that the 5 largest cities of the great plain, 
 
 during the same period, increased 9 *' 
 
 And the 10 largest cities of the great plain, 
 
 during the same period, increased 10 7-10 " 
 
 And the 15 largest cities of the great plain, 
 
 during the same period, increased 10 7-10 " 
 
 And the 20 largest cities of the great plain, 
 
 during the same period, increased 10 6-10 " 
 
 If the number of cities and towns of each section 
 were increased to twenty-five, thirty, and thirty-five 
 of each section, the disparity would increase in favor 
 of the interior cities, most of these to be brought 
 into comparison, having come into existence since 
 1830. 
 
 We commend the comparison between the old 
 and the new cities so far back as 1830, to give the 
 
238 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 former a better chance for a fair showing. If a later 
 census should be chosen for a siarting point, the 
 advantages would be more decidedly with the into 
 rior cities. 
 
 In the article on the great plain, in the May num. 
 ber of this Review, we gave prominence to the two 
 great external gateways of commerce offered to its 
 people in their intercourse with the rest of the 
 world : that is to say, the Mississippi river entrance 
 into the Gulf of Mexico, and the outlet of the lakes 
 through St. Lawrence and Hudson rivers. These 
 constitute the preseiit great routes of commerce of 
 the people of the plain, and draw to the cities on 
 the borders of the great lakes and rivers the trade 
 of the surrounding country. Between the cities of 
 the great rivers and lakes there has of late sprung 
 up a friendly rivalry, each having some peculiar ad- 
 vantages, and all, in some degree, drawing business 
 into their laps for the benefit of their rivals. That 
 is to say : river cities gather in productions from 
 the surrounding districts which seek an eastern mar- 
 ket through lake harbors ; and lake cities perform 
 the same office for the chief "iver cities. Each year 
 increases, to a marked extent, the intercourse which 
 these two classes of cities hold with each other ; and 
 it may be safely anticipated that no long period will 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 239 
 
 elapso before this intercourse will become more im- 
 portant to them than all their commerce with the 
 world beside. 
 
 In comparing the interior cities of the great 
 plain, situated on the navigable rivers, with those 
 located on the borders of the lakes, two considera- 
 tions bearing on their relative growth should be 
 kept in view. The river cities were of earlier 
 growth, the settement from the Atlantic States hav- 
 ing taken the Ohio river as the high-road to their 
 new homes, many years before the upper lakes 
 were resorted to as a channel of active emigration. 
 
 This gave an earlier development to country bor- 
 dering the central rivers, the Ohio, Wabash, Illinois, 
 and Lower Missouri. The States of Kentucky and 
 Tennessee, also, had been pretty well settled, in their 
 more inviting portions, before any considerable in- 
 road had been made on the wilderness bordering on 
 the upper lakes. Owing to these and other circum- 
 stances, the river cities, Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louis- 
 ville, and others of less note, were well advanced in 
 growth, before the towns on the lakes had begun, in 
 any considerable degree, to be developed. Another 
 advantage the river cities possessed in their early 
 stage, and which they still hold ; that of manufactur- 
 ing for the planting States bordering the great rivers. 
 
240 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 For many years, in a great variety of articles of ne- 
 cessity, they possessed almost a monopoly of this 
 business. Of late, transportation has become so 
 (jlieap, that the planters avail themselves of a greater 
 range of choice for the purchase of manufactured nr- 
 tides, and the lake cities have commenced a direct 
 trade with the plantation States, which will doubt- 
 less increase with the usual rapidity of industrial 
 development in the fertile West. 
 
 If wo claim for the upper lake country some supe- 
 riority of climate for city growth over the great river 
 region, we do not doubt that the future will justify 
 the claim. More labor will be performed for tlie 
 same compensation, in a cool, bracing atmospliere, 
 such as distinguishes the upper lake region, than on 
 the more sultry banks of the central affluents of the 
 Mississippi, where are the best positions for the 
 chief river cities. 
 
 Eefraining from further comment, let us bring the 
 actual development of the interior cities — on the 
 navigable rivers and on the lakes — into juxtaposition 
 for easy comparison. As our comparison of Atlantic 
 cities with the cities of the plain has been made for 
 thirty years, from 1830 to 1860, we continue it here 
 for the same period, between the river cities and lake 
 cities. We select twenty cities, now the largest of 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 241 
 
 each region, and put down the population in round 
 numbers aa n«arly accurate as practicable. That for 
 1800, is of course, an estimate only, but it in cer- 
 tainly near enough to the truth to illustrate the 
 growth, positive and comparative, of our interior 
 cities. 
 
 This table exhibits a growth of the interior cities 
 on the navigable waters of the Mississippi and its 
 atlluents, which brings their population, in 1870, up 
 to 11 4-10 that of 1830. This is, unquestionably, 
 much beyond the expectation of their most sanguine 
 inhabitants, at the commencement of that period, be 
 in<,' three times that of the chief cities of the ^ iluntio 
 border. Yet even this rapid development is seen, 
 by our figures, to fall far behind that which has 
 chcaracterized the cities created by lake commerce 
 (luring the same period. 
 
 Interior River cities 1830. 1800. 
 
 (.'incinnati and dependencies 2.5,500 250,000 
 
 15,500 155,000 
 
 6,C0.> 180,000 
 
 11,000 80,000 
 
 2,500 25,000 
 
 . 6,000 20,000 
 
 1,500 20,000 
 
 1,000 19,000 
 
 800 18,000 
 
 2,000 18,500 
 
 50 16,000 
 
 Pittsburg, 
 
 « 
 
 St. Louis, 
 
 (1 
 
 Louisville, 
 
 II 
 
 Memphis, 
 
 II 
 
 Wheeling, 
 
 II 
 
 New Albany 
 
 II 
 
 Quincy, 
 
 II 
 
 Peoria, 
 
 II 
 
 Galena, 
 
 II 
 
 Keokuk, 
 
 II 
 
 21 
 
 
t""? 
 
 242 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 
 Dubuque, 
 
 14 
 
 Nashville, 
 
 « 
 
 St. Paul, 
 
 << 
 
 Madison, Ind., 
 
 (( 
 
 Burlington, Ind., 
 
 {( 
 
 La Fayette, Ind. 
 
 i( 
 
 Rock Island, 
 
 <( 
 
 Jeffersonville, 
 
 (t 
 
 100 16,000 
 
 6,000 15,000 
 
 15,000 
 
 2,500 13,000 
 
 12,000 
 
 13,000 
 
 8,000 
 
 8,000 
 
 300. 
 800. 
 
 81,550 
 
 Lake CltieN. 1830. 
 
 Chicago and dependencies 100 . 
 
 Buffalo, 
 
 Detroit, 
 
 Milwaukee, 
 
 Cleveland, 
 
 Toronto, C. W. 
 
 Rochester, 
 
 Hamilton, C. W. 
 
 Kingston, C. W. 
 
 Oswego, 
 
 Toledo, 
 
 Sandusky City, 
 
 Erie, 
 
 G. Rapids, Mich., 
 
 Kenosha, 
 
 Racine, 
 
 St. Catharine's.O.W. 
 
 Waukegan, 
 
 Port Huron, 
 
 Fon du Lac, 
 
 (( 
 
 (( 
 
 8,663. 
 2,222, 
 50. 
 1,047; 
 1,667. 
 9,269. 
 5,500. 
 2,500. 
 3,200. 
 30. 
 
 350. 
 1,000. 
 
 300. 
 
 400. 
 
 . 100. 
 20. 
 
 32,408 
 
 914,000 
 
 18G0. 
 .150,000 
 •100,000 
 . 80,000 
 . 75,000 
 . 70,000 
 . 65,000 
 . 50,000 
 . 25.000 
 . 20,500 
 
 . 2o,m 
 
 . 20,000 
 
 . 14,000 
 
 . 10,000 
 
 . 10,000 
 
 . 10,000 
 
 . 10,000 
 
 . 10,000 
 
 . 8,000 
 
 . 8,000 
 
 . 8,000 
 
 (64,000 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 243 
 
 These, according to the table, exhibit a growth 
 which makes them, in 1860, more than twenty-three 
 tiip^^ as populous as they were in 1830. This is 
 double the progress of the river cities, and more than 
 five times that of the cities of the Atlantic coast. In 
 the face of these facts, how can intelligent men con- 
 tinue to hold the opinion that New York is to con- 
 tinue long to be, as now, the focal point of North 
 American commerce and influence ? Yet well in- 
 formed men do continue to express the opinion that 
 New York will ever hold the position of the chief 
 city of the continent. Every one at all familiar with 
 the location and movement of our population, knows 
 that the central point of its numbers is moving in a 
 constant and almost unvarying direction west by 
 north. An able investigator, now Professor of Law 
 in the University of Michigan, Thomas M. Cooley, 
 five years ago, entered into an elaborate calculation 
 to ascertain where the centre of population of the 
 United States and Canadas was, at that time. The 
 result showed it to be very near Pittsburg. It is 
 generally conceded that it travels in a direction about 
 west by north, at a rate averaging not less than seven 
 miles a year. In 1860, it will have crossed the Ohio 
 River, and commenced its march through the State 
 of Ohio. As our internal commerce is more than 
 
flMt (■ 
 
 244 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ten times as great as our foreign commerce, and 
 is increasing more rapidly, it is plain that it will 
 have the chief agency in building the future and per- 
 manent capital city of the continent. If the centre 
 of population were, likewise the centre of wealth 
 and industrial power, other things being equal, it 
 would be the position of the chief city, as it would 
 be the most convenient place of exchange for dealers 
 from all quarters of the country. But this centre 
 of wealth and industrial power does not keep up, iu 
 its western movement, with the centre of population ! 
 nor, if its movement were coincident, would it be at 
 or near the right point for the concentration of our 
 domestic and foreign trade, while traversing the in- 
 terior of Ohio. If we suppose our foreign commerce 
 equal to one fifteenth of the domestic, we should add 
 to the thirty- three millions of the States and Canadas, 
 upward of two millions of foreigners, to represent 
 our foreign commerce. These should be thrown 
 into the scale represented by New York. This, with 
 the larger proportion to population of industrial 
 power remaining in the old States, would render it 
 certain that the centre of industrial power of our 
 nation has not traveled westward so far as to endan- 
 ger, for the present, the supremacy of the cities cen- 
 tral to tlie commerce of our Atlantic coast. Until 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 245 
 
 the centre of industrial power approaches a good 
 harbor on the lakes, New York will continue the 
 best located city of the continent for the great ope- 
 rations of its commerce. That the centre of wealth 
 and consequent industrial power is moving westward 
 at a rate not materially slower than the centre of 
 population, might be easily proved ; but, as those who 
 read this article with interest must be cognizant of 
 the great flow of capital from the old world and the 
 old States to the New States, and the rapid increase 
 of capital on the fertile soil of the new States, no 
 special proof seems to us to be called for. The cen- 
 tre of power, numerical, political, economical, and 
 social, is then, indubitably, on its steady march from 
 the Atlantic border toward the interior of the conti- 
 nent. That it will find a resting place somewhere, 
 in its broad interior plain, seems as inevitable as the 
 continued movement of the earth on its axis. The 
 figures we have submitted of the growth of the prin- 
 cipal lake cities plainly show great power in lake 
 commerce, so great as to carry conviction to our 
 mind that the principal city of the continent will 
 find its proper home and resting-place on the lake 
 harder, and become the most populous capital of the 
 earth. A full knowledge of the geography of North 
 America will tend to confirm this conviction in the 
 21*^ 
 
155' I ' 
 
 246 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 mind of tho fair inquirer. The lakes penetrate the 
 continent to its productive centre. They afford, 
 during eight or nine months of the year, pleasant and 
 safe navigation for steam-propelled vessels. Their 
 waters are pure and beautifully transparent, and the 
 air which passes over them exceedingly invigorating 
 to the human system. Their borders are replete 
 with materials for the exercise of human industry 
 and skill. The soil is fertile and very productive 
 in grains and grasses. Coal in exhaustless abund- 
 ance crops out on or near their waters, to the extent of 
 nearly one thousand miles of coast. The richest 
 mines of iron and copper, convenient to water trans- 
 port, exist, in a<>:gregate amount, beyond the power 
 of calculation. Stone of lime, granite, sand, and 
 various other kinds suitable for the architect and the 
 artist, are found almost everywhere convenient to 
 navigation. Gypsum of the best quality crops out 011 
 the shores of three of the great lakes, and salt springs 
 of great strength are worked to advantage, near 
 lakes Ontario and Michigan. Timber trees in great 
 variety and of valuable sorts, give a rich border to 
 the shores for thousands of miles. Of these, the 
 white oak, burr oak, white pine, whitewood or tulip 
 tree, white ash, hickory ard black walnut, are the 
 most valuable. They are of noble dimensions, and 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 247 
 
 clothe millions of acres with their rich tbliugo. No- 
 where else on the continent are to be seen such 
 abundance of magnificent oak, and the immense 
 groves of white pine are not excelled. Heretofore 
 little esteemed, the great tracts of timber convenient 
 to lake navigation and to the wide treeless prairies 
 of the plain, are destined soon to take an important 
 place in the commercial operations of the interior. 
 Already, oak timber, for ship-building and other 
 purposes, finds a profitable market In New York and 
 Boston. The great Russian steamship *' General 
 Admiral," was built in part from the timber of the 
 lake border. A great trade is growing up, based on 
 the products of the forest. White wood (Dirioden- 
 dron tulipifera) oak staves, black and white walnut 
 plank, and other indigenous timber, are shipped, not 
 only to the Atlantic cities, but to foreign ports. The 
 lumber yards of Albany, New York, Philadelphia, 
 as well as those of Chicago, Milwaukee, Detroit, 
 Toledo, Cleveland and Buffalo, receive large sup- 
 plies from the pineries bordering the great lakes. 
 Cincinnati and other Ohio river cities, receive an in- 
 creasing proportion of pine lumber from the same 
 source. These great waters are also, as is well known, 
 stocked with fish in great variety, whose fine gas- 
 tronomic qualities have a world-wide reputation. 
 
248 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 As before stated, these lakes penetrate the conti- 
 nent toward the northwest as far as its productive 
 centre. They now have unobstructed connection 
 with the Atlantic vessels of nine feet draft and three 
 hundred tons burden, by the aid of sixty-three miles 
 of canals overcoming the falls of the St. Mary. Nia- 
 gara and St. Lawrence Rivers, with a lockage of less 
 than six hund red feet. By enlarging some of the locks 
 and deepei ing the canals, at u cost of a very few mil- 
 lions, navigation for propellers of from one thousand 
 to two thousand tons mav be secured with the whole 
 Avorld of waters. The cost is much within the power 
 of the Canadas and the States bordering the lakes, 
 and will be but a light matter to these communities 
 when, within the next fifteen years, they shall have 
 doubled their population and trebled their wealth. 
 The increase of the commerce of the lakes, daring 
 the last fifteen years, is believed to be beyond any 
 example furnished by the history of navigation. A 
 proportionate increase the next fifteen years, would 
 give for the yearly value of its transported articles, 
 thousands of millions. According to the best authori- 
 ties it is now over four hundred millions. In 1855, that 
 portion of the tonnage belonging to the United States 
 was one fifteenth of the entire tonnage of the Union. 
 During the same year the clearances of vessels from 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 249 
 
 ports of the United States to the Cuuadaa, and the 
 entrance of vessels from the Oanadas to ports of the 
 United States, as exliibited in the following table, 
 show a greater amount of tonnage entered and cleared 
 than between the United States and any other foreign 
 country : 
 
 Clearances from ports in the United States to ports 
 in Canada in 1855 : 
 
 Number of American vessels 
 Canadian " 
 
 « 
 
 Whole number 
 Tonnage American 
 " Canadian 
 
 2,369 
 6,638 
 
 9,067 
 890,017 
 903,502 
 
 Total cleared from the States, - - - 1,793,519 
 
 The registered tonnage of all the States, the same 
 year, was 2,676,864; and the registered and enrolled 
 together, 5,212,000. 
 
 The value of lake tonnage was, in 1855, $14,835,- 
 000. The total value of the commerce of the lakes, 
 the same year, was estimated, by high authority, (in- 
 cluding exports and imports) at twelve hundred and 
 sixteen millions ($1,216,000,000.) This seems to us 
 an exaggerated estimate, tliough based principally 
 on official reports of collectors of customs. Eight 
 
250 
 
 Old Macieinaw. 
 
 hundred millions would, probably, be near to the 
 true amount. It will surprise many persons to learn 
 that the trade between the United States and Canadas, 
 carried on chiefly by the lakes and their connectin<r 
 waters, ranks third in value and first in tonnage, in 
 the table of our foreign commerce ; being, in value, 
 only below that of England and the French Empire, 
 and in tonnage above the British Empire. 
 
 American goods to Canada 
 Foreign gcds 
 
 Canadian goods to the States, 
 
 $9,950,764 
 8.769,580 
 
 $18,720,344 
 12,182,314 
 
 $30,902,658 
 
 We here append a table showing the progress, 
 from decade to decade, of the principal centres of 
 population of the plain since 1820. It has been made 
 with all the accuracy which our sources of informa- 
 tion enable us to attain. There are in it, no doubt, 
 many errors, but it will be found, in the main, and 
 for general argument, substantially correct. For 
 future reference, it will be valuable to persons who 
 take an interest in the development of our new ur- 
 ban communities. Included in each city are its out- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 251 
 
 lying dependencies — sucli as Newport and Coving« 
 
 ton with Cincinnati, and Lafayette with New Or- 
 leans. 
 
 1830. 1840. 1830. 1800. 
 
 New Orleans 46,310 90,000 130,565 180,000 
 
 Oinciunati 21,831 47,000 130,739 250,000 
 
 St Louis 5,852 16,469 82,000 180,000 
 
 Chicago 100 4,650 29,963 150,000 
 
 Pittsburg 12,568 25,000 71,595 125,000 
 
 Buffalo 8,653 18,213 42,265 100,000 
 
 Montreal 30,000 40,000 55,000 90,000 
 
 Louisville 10,341 21,210 43,194 89,000 
 
 Detroit 2,222 9,162 21,019 80,000 
 
 Milwaukee 50 1,730 20,061 75,000 
 
 Cleveland 1,047 6,071 19,377 70,000 
 
 Toronto 1,677 13,500 27,500 70,000 
 
 Rochester 9,269 20,191 36,409 50,000 
 
 Quebec 26,250 32,500 41,200 55,000 
 
 Columbus, 2,450 6,671 17,882 40,000 
 
 Mobile 3,194 12,672 20,515 35,000 
 
 Hamilton, C. W.... 1..500 4,200 13,000 25,000 
 
 Mempir 1,500 3,500 8,839 25,000 
 
 Nashville.. 5,566 6,929 10,478 26,000 
 
 Dayton 2,954 6,067 10,977 25,000 
 
 Indianapolis 1,000 2,692 8,034 22,000 
 
 Wheeling, Va 5,221 7,885 11,435 20,000 
 
 Kingston, C. W.... 2,500 ,5,500 10,000 20,000 
 
 Lockport, N. Y 3,800 6,500 12,323 20,000 
 
 Oswego 3,200 4,665 12,205 20,000 
 
 Toledo 30 1,229 3,829 20,000 
 
 Zanesville 3,000 6,000 12,355 20,000 
 
 est. est. 
 
 New Albany 1,500 4,000 9.895 20,000 
 
 est. est. 
 
2^2 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1830. 
 
 Peoria 800 
 
 est 
 
 Quincy, Til 1,000 
 
 Galena 2,000 
 
 Dubuque 200 
 
 Keokuk 
 
 Davenport 
 
 Burlington, la 
 
 Columbus, Ga 1,000 
 
 Alton, 111 250 
 
 Steubcnvillc 2,964 
 
 Chillicothe 2,840 
 
 Grand Kapids, Mich. 300 
 
 Huntsvillo. Ala 1,200 
 
 Adrian, Mich. 200 
 
 Ann Arbor 200 
 
 Sandusky City 350 
 
 Fort AVayne, la 100 
 
 Madison, la 2,500 
 
 St. Paul 
 
 Lafayette, la 200 
 
 Maysvillo, Ky 1,800 
 
 Terre Haute, la GOO 
 
 Evansville, la 300 
 
 Jefferson ville, la 500 
 
 Portsmouth, Ohio.... 1,000 
 
 Marietta, 1,200 
 
 Springfield, 111 800 
 
 Rock Island City 
 
 Chi-ttanooga, Ten. . . . 500 
 
 Bytown, or | 
 
 Ottawa, C.W. j *•• ^"" 
 
 London, C. W 500 
 
 St. Catherines, do. . . . 200 
 Galveston, Texas 1,200 
 
 1840. 
 
 18.V). 
 
 I860. 
 
 2,000 
 
 5,095 
 
 20,000 
 
 est. 
 
 
 
 3,000 
 
 6,902 
 
 20,000 
 
 4,000 
 
 6,004 
 
 20,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 3,108 
 
 16,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 2,478 
 
 16,000 
 
 500 
 
 2,478 
 
 12,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 1,848 
 
 12,000 
 
 4,000 
 
 5,052 
 
 10,000 
 
 2,500 
 
 3,585 
 
 10,000 
 
 5,203 
 
 6,140 
 
 (..000 
 
 3,977 
 
 7,100 
 
 9.000 
 
 1,500 
 
 3,148 
 
 9,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 2,863 
 
 6,000 
 
 1,800 
 
 3,006 
 
 9,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 4,868 
 
 9,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 8,500 
 
 13,000 
 
 1,600 
 
 4,282 
 
 13,000 
 
 4,500 
 
 8,508 
 
 13,000 
 
 • • • 
 
 1.012 
 
 15,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 6,129 
 
 13,000 
 
 2,741 
 
 4,256 
 
 9,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 4,900 
 
 9,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 3,235 
 
 9,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 3,487 
 
 9,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 4,011 
 
 9,000 
 
 1,815 
 
 5,254 
 
 9,000 
 
 2,579 
 
 4,553 
 
 9.000 
 
 400 
 
 1,711 
 
 8,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 3,500 
 
 8,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 5,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 5,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 800 
 
 4,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 4,177 
 
 10,000 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1830. 
 
 Houston, " 
 
 Erie, Pa 1,260 
 
 Lexington, Ky 4,500 
 
 0(,'den8burg 1,000 
 
 Natchez, Miss 2,000 
 
 Throe Rivers, C. E. 800 
 
 Racine, Wis 
 
 VVuukesha 
 
 Murshall, Mich 200 
 
 rontiac, '* 150 
 
 l"t Huron " 100 
 
 .luckson " 150 
 
 Kalamazoo '* 150 
 
 Mineral Pt., Wis 500 
 
 Kenosha " 
 
 FoudnLac, " 
 
 Janesville 
 
 Beloit 
 
 Madison 
 
 Kigin 
 
 Oshkosh, 
 
 Monroe, Mich 400 
 
 Lansing " 
 
 Columbus, Miss 800 
 
 Jacksonville, 111 800 
 
 Waukegan 
 
 Lasalle 
 
 Joliet 
 
 Jefferson City, Mo... 1,000 
 
 St. Joseph " 
 
 Independence " 
 
 Iowa City, Iowa 
 
 Muscatine " 
 
 Springfield, Ohio 1,080 
 
 Newark •' 1,000 
 
 22 
 
 • • • t • • 
 
 • • • • • • 
 
 • •••• ••• 
 
 it 
 
 50 
 
 1840. 
 
 500 
 
 3,500 
 
 6,997 
 
 3,000 
 
 3,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 200 
 
 1,200 
 
 1,300 
 
 400 
 
 1,000 
 
 900 
 
 800 
 
 500 
 
 1,000 
 
 1,200 
 
 500 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 • • • 
 
 2,000 
 
 100 
 
 1,500 
 
 1,500 
 
 800 
 
 1,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 500 
 
 • • • 
 
 400 
 2,094 
 2,705 
 
 18A0. 
 
 3,000 
 
 6,858 
 
 9,180 
 
 6,500 
 
 4,434 
 
 4,000 
 
 5,111 
 
 2,313 
 
 2,822 
 
 2,820 
 
 2,313 
 
 3,051 
 
 2,363 
 
 2,584 
 
 3,055 
 
 3,451 
 
 2,782 
 
 2,732 
 
 1,500 
 
 2,359 
 
 2,500 
 
 2,813 
 
 1,229 
 
 2,611 
 
 2,745 
 
 2,949 
 
 3,201 
 
 2,659 
 
 3.000 
 
 2,557 
 
 3,500 
 
 1,582 
 
 2,540 
 
 5,108 
 
 3,654 
 
 253 
 
 I860. 
 
 10,000 
 10,000 
 10,000 
 10,000 
 9,000 
 8,000 
 9,000 
 8,000 
 8,000 
 8,000 
 8,000 
 6,000 
 6,000 
 6,000 
 8,000 
 6,000 
 7,000 
 6,000 
 7,000 
 5,000 
 6,000 
 5,000 
 5,000 
 5,000 
 5,000 
 6,000 
 6,000 
 6,000 
 5,000 
 5,000 
 6,000 
 5,000 
 6,000 
 8,000 
 7,000 
 
254 ^'^^ Mackinaw. 
 
 IMO. 1840. 
 
 Homilton •• 800 1,109 
 
 Lancaster *' 1,000 2,120 
 
 Akron " 800 1,664 
 
 Mt, Vernon " 800 2,363 
 
 Tiffin •* 728 
 
 Urbana '* 400 1,070 
 
 Massillon " 600 1,300 
 
 Lawrcnceburg, la 600 2,000 
 
 Richmond, la ftOO 1,000 
 
 Knoxvillo,Tonn 1,800 
 
 \m). 
 
 iNOi 
 
 3,210 
 
 7,000 
 
 3,483 
 
 n.ooo 
 
 3,266 
 
 6,000 
 
 3,711 
 
 7,000 
 
 2,718 
 
 7,000 
 
 3,414 
 
 6,000 
 
 2,697 
 
 n.noo 
 
 3,487 
 
 6,000 
 
 1,443 
 
 5.000 
 
 2,076 
 
 6,000 
 
 The preceding table is instructive, showing, as it 
 does, the steady and rapidly increasing tendency of 
 the people of the plain to seek a home in cities and 
 villages, notwithstanding the great temptation which 
 fertile, cheap, and easily-improved lands hold out tf) 
 become tillers of the soil and growers of cattle. Stock 
 farming is largely remunerative, but our western 
 people — wild and uncultivated as they are supposerl 
 to be by those unacquainted with their true charac- 
 ter — prefer homes where the advantages of education 
 and social intercourse is a constant enjoyment. No- 
 where in the world are educational establishments 
 on a better footing or more universally accessible 
 than in some of the new States of the centre, as in 
 Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin and other States." 
 
 '■k. 
 
CHAPTER XIT. 
 
 Michigun Agri(3uUurnl ReportH for 18ft4 — Professor Thomas's 
 Report— Report of J. S. Dixon — Products of States— Climate 
 —Army Meteorologioal Reportn. 
 
 From the Agriculturnl Reports of the State of 
 Michigun we take the following: — 
 
 "From old Fort Mackinaw to the Manistee River, the 
 land immediately upon the lake shore, and not un- 
 frequently extending back for many miles, is con- 
 siderably elevated, and occasionally rises very ab- 
 ruptly to the height of from one hundred to three 
 01' four hundred feet. The country (more particu- 
 larly the northern portion) continues to rise as we 
 proceed into the interior, until it attains an elevation 
 equal to any other portion of the peninsula. 
 
 "This is more particularly the case in the rear of 
 Traverse Bay, where this elevation continues for many 
 miles into the interior, giving to the landscape a 
 very picturesque appearance when viewed from some 
 of the small lakes, which abound in this as well as 
 in the more southern portion of the State. 
 
 (255) 
 
0] ' 
 
 256 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 " The tract of country under consideration is based 
 on limestone, sandstone, and shales, which are cov- 
 ered, excepting at a few points, with a deposit of red 
 clay and sand, varying in thickness from a few 
 inches to more than four hundred feet. The interior 
 of the northern portion of the peninsula, west of the 
 meridian, is generally more rolling than that on the 
 east. It is interspersed with some extensive cedur 
 swamps and marshes, on the alluvial lands, and in the 
 vicinity of heads of streams and some of the lakes. 
 The upland is generally rolling, has a soil of clay, 
 loam and sand, and is clad with evergreen timber, 
 intermixed with tracts of beech and maple, varying 
 in extent from a few acres to several townships. 
 Several of the most extensive of these tracts are 
 in the vicinity of the Cheboygan and Tahweegon 
 rivers, their lakes and tributary streams. There are 
 also large tracts of beech and maple timber lying be- 
 tween the head of Grand Traverse Bay, and the 
 Manistee and Muskeegon rivers. 
 
 " The elevated portion of land on the shore of 
 Lake Michigan, known as the 'Sleeping Bear' as 
 well as Mauitou Island, (see latitude 45) which, 
 when viewed from a distance, has the appearance 
 of sand, is found to be composed of alternate lay- 
 ers of highly marly clay and sand. The clay is of 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 2J7 
 
 a deep red color, and in many places its strata are 
 much contorted. 
 
 " The hilly region, to which allusions have been 
 made, is mostly heavily timbered with beech, maple, 
 bass, oak, ash, elm, birch, etc., interspersed with an 
 occasional cedar swamp. In the vicinity of Grand 
 Traverse Bay, this character of country extends into 
 the interior for many miles, bordering on a neries of 
 small and beautiful lakes, which vary in length from 
 two to eighteen miles, and are generally free from 
 marsh and swamp. This country, as also that in the 
 interior from Little Traverse Bay, is well adapted to 
 the purposes of agriculture. 
 
 " Passing south of this rolling district, the country 
 becomes less elevated and more variable, the soil 
 assuming a more sandy character, and being gener- 
 ally clad with evergreen timber. There are, how- 
 ever, exceptions to this in some tine tracts of beech 
 and maple near the lake coast, also, in the vicinity 
 of some of the streams in the interior. 
 
 " It is nevertheless true, that there are many ex- 
 tensive swamps and marshes in this part of the penin- 
 sula, but it is doubted whether, upon the whole, they 
 exceed the quantity or extent of those of the more 
 southern part of the State. 
 
 " In pQint of soil and timber, this portion of the 
 22* 
 
5t'' 
 
 258 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 State is not inferior to the more southern — and 
 such are the advantages it offers to the settler, that the 
 day is not distant when it will be sought as a place 
 of residence by the agriculturist. 
 
 " The beauty of its lakes and streams is not any- 
 where surpassed. Such is the transparency of their 
 waters as to permit objects to be distinctly seen at 
 the depth of more that thirty feet. 
 
 ''That part of the peninsula situate north of 
 Grand Kiver is usually regarded by many of the in- 
 habitants of the more southern part of the State, 
 as being either an impenetrable swamp, or a sandy 
 barren waste, and as possessing too rigorous a cli- 
 mate to admit of its successful application to pur- 
 poses of agriculture. 
 
 " This is an erroneous opinion, and one which will 
 most certainly be corrected, as the facts with regard 
 to this part of our State come more fully to be 
 known. The inhabitants of Flat, Koyale, Muske- 
 gon and White Eivers, and the Ottawa Indians, 
 living on the Grand and Little Traverse Bays, and 
 on the Manistee River, have extensive cultivated 
 fields, which uniformly produce abundant crops, 
 
 " The country on Flat and Royale Rivers is gener- 
 ally rolling, interspersed with level and knobby tracts ; 
 but none is so rough as to prevent it from being 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 259 
 
 successfully cultivated. The timber in the vicinity 
 of the streams consists of black, white, and burr oak, 
 which is scattering, and forms what is denominated 
 openings and plains; small tracts of pine barrens, 
 beech, maple and oak lands, interspersed with tracts 
 of white pine. 
 
 "Settlements are rapidly advancing in this part 
 of our State, and much of the land under cultiva- 
 tion produces excellent crops of wheat, oats, corn, 
 potatoes, etc., and so far as experience has been 
 brought to the test, is not inferior to, or more sub- 
 ject to early frosts in the fall, than more southern 
 counties of the State. 
 
 " The soil varies from a light sand to a stiff clay 
 loam. 
 
 " The country on the Muskegon is rolling, and 
 may be considered as divided into beech and maple 
 land, pine lands, pine barrens, oak openings, plains 
 and prairies. Small tracts of the latter are situate! 
 near the forks of the river, about forty-five mileK 
 from its mouth, and between thirty and fori/- five 
 miles north of the Grand Eiver. 
 
 "Crops of corn, oats, wheat, etc., were here as 
 flourishing as those of the more southern part of 
 State. The soil of the prairies and openings is 
 
*■.,•"! 
 
 26o 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 sandy, while that of the beech and maple lands is a 
 sand and clay loam. 
 
 " The Indians on Grand and Little Traverse Bays 
 and vicinity, also obtain good crops of corn, pota- 
 toes, squashes, etc. Some of the most intellio-ent 
 Indians informed me that they were seldom injured 
 by frosts in the fall or spring. They also have 
 many apple trees which produce fruit in consider- 
 able quantities. 
 
 " The soil is strictly a warm one, and, exposed as 
 the whole country, bordering on Lake Michigan, is 
 to the influence of the southern winds during sum- 
 mer and parts of spring and fall, it seldom fails to 
 be productive." 
 
 Professor Thomas, G^,ologist, has placed in our 
 hands the following report of the Geology of Macki- 
 naw, Michigan : 
 
 " From the site of old Fort Mackinaw, at the very 
 extremity of the peninsula, south to the Manistee 
 Kiver, a direct distance of about one hundred and 
 forty miles, the immediate shores of the lake are 
 almost invariably considerably elevated, sometimes 
 rising abruptly to a height of from three to four 
 hundred feet. 
 
 " The soil of the vicinity, in consequence of the 
 large amount of calcareous matter which enters into 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 261 
 
 its composition, possesses a fertility that a superficial 
 observer would scarcely ascribe r.c i .. 
 
 "The limestone chiefly consists of an irregular 
 assemblage of angular fragments united by a tufa- 
 ceous cement. These fragments usually appear at 
 first sight to have a compact ?cructure, but a more 
 minute examination shows chem to contain minute 
 cells, sufficiently large to admit water, which, by the 
 action of frost, subjects the rock to rapid disintegra- 
 tion. Portions of the rock may, nevertheless, be 
 selected partially free from this difficulty, and which 
 are possessed of sufficient compactness to render 
 them of value as a coarse building stone ; horn-stone, 
 striped jasper (imperfect); hog-toothed spar, calca- 
 reous spar, and fluor spar, are imbedded in the rock, 
 although the latter is of rare occurrence. 
 
 " Lime rock again occurs at the Straits of Macki- 
 naw, and in the vicinity, it appears upon the Island 
 of Mackinac, together with the Bois Blanc, Eoand, 
 and St. Martin's Islarids, as also upon the northern 
 peninsula north from^ Mackinaw. 
 
 ''Gypsum occurs on the St. Martin's group of 
 islands, and also upon the northern peninsula be- 
 tween Green Bay and Mackinac. 
 
 " Mackinaw Limestone. — The rock is of a light 
 color, and the fragments of which it is composed 
 
 
262 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 frequently contain numberless minute cells. These 
 were undoubtedly once filled with spar, which has 
 been washed out of the exposed part of the rock by 
 the action of water. The upper part is unfit for 
 building purposes, but the lower is more compact, 
 and has marks of regular stratification. 
 
 " Coal. — The coal is highly bituminous, a charac- 
 ter in common with all that has been seen in tlie 
 State, n:v\ it may safely be said, that none other 
 may b(^ looked for in the peninsula. 
 
 "Fr )!!) the facts now before me, I am led to hope 
 'lat 3< t;i) will be found in the elevated hills of the 
 i^f)rr/i;( ii' part of the peninsula, east':n^ly from Little 
 Travenre Bay, a circumstance which, should it prove 
 to be the case, wiU add much to the value of that 
 portion of the State." — lloug/itoti' Geological Eejjorts 
 of Michigan. 
 
 " Foster and Whitney, United States Geologists, in 
 their Keports to the Government, laid down the On- 
 ondago Salt Group of rocks as extending over a por- 
 tion of the southern part of the northern peninsula 
 of Michigan, not a great distance from Mackinaw, 
 and also as existing on the hit. ivIurtinV. and Macki- 
 naw Islands. 
 
 " Onondaga Salt Group. — As a whole, it is an 
 immense mass of argillo-calcareous shaly rocks. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 263 
 
 inclosing veins and beds of gypsum ; hence this has 
 been designated by some as the ' gypseous shales.' 
 
 "Four divisions have been distinguished in the 
 description of the Onondaga Salt Group, though 
 the lines of separation are by no means well de- 
 fined. 
 
 "1. Red and greenish shales below. 
 
 "2. Green and red marl, shale, and shaly lime- 
 stone with some veins of gypsum. 
 
 '■ Shaly, compact, impure limestone, with shale and 
 marl, embracing two ranges of plaster beds with 
 hopper-shaped cavities between. 
 
 " 4. Drab-colored, impure limestone with fibrous 
 cavities; the 'miignesian deposit of Vanuxem.' Of 
 these, the third is tlie only one that has yielded gyp- 
 sum in profitable quantities. The included masses 
 of gypsum, though, for the most part, even-bedded 
 at their base, are usually very irregular at their 
 upper surface, often conical. The plaster beds are 
 supposed to be separations by molecular attraction 
 from the marl. 
 
 "This third division contains not only the gypse- 
 ous beds, but is most probably the source of all the 
 salt so extensively manufactured at Onondaga, Ca- 
 yuga, and Madison ; at least Vanuxem informs us 
 that, except in these gypseous beds, there is no evi- 
 
264 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 dence of salt existing in the solid state in any of 
 the other divisions of the O'^iondaga Salt Group. 
 
 "The fourth division is remarkable for a fine 
 columnar structure, or needle-formed cavities, dis- 
 persed through the mass. 
 
 " In the middle counties of New York, the entire 
 thickness of the Onondaga Salt Group must be from 
 six hundred to a thousand feet. Notwithstandinsf 
 its great thickness, this formation is very barren in 
 fossils. The corals and shells of the Niagara group 
 suddenly ceased to exist, perhaps, as Hall suggests, 
 being overwhelmed by a sudden outbreak of a buried 
 vulcano at the bottom of the ocean, by whicli the 
 waters became surcharged not only with argillaceous 
 sediment, but became contaminated, either with free 
 sulphuric acid, or sulpiiate of magnesia and soda. 
 
 "The country through which the Onondaga 
 Salt Group extends, is usually marked by a series of 
 low, gravelly hills, and clayey valleys, on which a 
 stunted growth of timber prevails, known by tiie 
 name of ' Oak Openings.' Small portions of sul- 
 phate of strontia, galena, and blende, with rhomb 
 spar, occur in the upper portion of the group. Gyp- 
 sum and salt are, however, the only minerals of eco- 
 nomical value : of the former many thousand tons 
 are excavated. Several acidulous springs issuing 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 265 
 
 from these deposits, have been found to contain free 
 sulphuric acid." — D. D. Owen^s Review of the N. Y, 
 Geological Reports . 
 
 Jules Marcou, in his Geology of the United States, 
 places the northern portion of the southern penin- 
 sula of Michigan in the Terrain Devonian. 
 
 Report of J. S. Dixon and others, on Grand Tra- 
 verse Bay, p. 628, in Michigan Agricultural Reports 
 for 1834, says : 
 
 "The atmosphere is moist and wholesome — no 
 disease, and healthy as any portion of country. It 
 is a well established fact, that water cools first on 
 the surface, then sinks while the warm water rises, 
 and consequently ice never forms till the whole body 
 of water has been cooled to thirty degrees. Now, 
 from this fact, the philosopher will at once deduce 
 the climate of this region. Traverse Bay is from 
 one hundred to nine hundred feet deep and the water 
 never cools to thirty-two degrees till the middle of 
 February, and in Lake Michigan in the middle never, 
 and so long as the water in these continuous reser- 
 voirs is warmer than the air, the former must ob- 
 viously warm the latter. 
 
 "It is accordingly well known that in England, 
 on the east side of the Atlantic 7° or 8° farther 
 north than Traverse Bay, the climate, as it regards 
 23 
 
266 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 cold in winter, is about equal to that ofWashiugtf>,t 
 City, and so it is on the east side of the Pacific ocejui, 
 in Oregon. Hence it is evident that the seasons on 
 the east side of Lake Michigan must be uniform. 
 
 " Around Traverse Bay the frost seldom kills ve- 
 getables till in November, and seldom occurs in 
 spring later than the 1st of May. In November it 
 gets cold enough to freeze. The vapors arising from 
 the lake and bay fall in snow and cover the ground 
 before the frost has penetrated it at all ; it accumu- 
 lates several months till it is two feet deep, some- 
 times deeper, and remains till April ; and when it 
 goes oft', cattle find enough to eat in the woods. 
 This region is much more cunny between the middle 
 of March and December than southern Michigan, 
 and every vegetable physiologist will at once state 
 that the influence of this on vegetation must be very 
 great, and accordingly spring crops grow with such 
 rapidity that corn is fit to be cut by the 1st of Sep- 
 tember, From December to March, as above, the 
 atmosphere is hazy, cloudy, and frosty, though the 
 thermometer never sinks so low as in the south of 
 Michigan by ten or twelve degrees (8 or 10 degrees 
 below zero, being the lowest yet known), and a win- 
 ter thaw is unknown here. Hence we never have 
 mud in winter, and but little at any season. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 267 
 
 *' With the very dot'octivc cultivation hitherto 
 used here, yield of crops arc u.-^ f'oUowB: — Potatoes, 
 free of rot, 15l; to ii' >0 bushels to the acre ; oats 26 
 to 60 ; corn 25 to 50 ; wheat (spring) the largest yet 
 raised 27 bushels'. Wheat raised here is much inorc 
 plump than in southern Michigan, and tliere is no 
 instance of its being smothered or injured by snow, 
 because the snow never thaws and alternately 
 freezes into a hard crust, or ice, so as to oxcl ^e the 
 tiir from the wheat, as in other places. 
 
 "We couildently predict that this will become 
 tlio most prolific wheat region in the west ; rust and 
 insects are unknown. All experience goes to prove 
 that this will be a great fruit country. The Indian 
 apple and peach trees, although few in number 
 bear well every year; and as to wild blackber- 
 ries and raspberries^ both as to size and flavor, 
 there is absolutely no end. They serve all the 
 inhabitants and millions of pigeons for several 
 months," 
 
 United States census, 1850, shows products of 
 States. 
 
 Average per acre of 
 Wheat. Oats Corn. Potatoes. 
 
 Michigan 10 Bushels 26 32 140 
 
 Illinois 11 " 29 33 105 
 
 Indiana 12 " 20 33 100 
 
 Iowa 14 *' 36 32 100 
 
^ 
 
 ^^> 
 
 •C^*"^. 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 k 
 
 A 
 
 {./ 
 
 ^ >. 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ^1^ 
 
 1.25 
 
 US 
 
 1^ i^ 
 
 U, Uli 
 
 •^... ■£ 
 
 HI 
 U 
 
 IM 
 
 2.0 
 
 I 
 
 U 116 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4S03 
 
? 
 
 J^^ 
 
 F.<^ 
 
 
T 
 
 268 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Average per acre ol' 
 Wheat. Oats Corn. Potatoes. 
 
 Ohio 12 " 21 36 
 
 Wisconsin 14 " 35 30 
 
 Pennsylvania 15 ** 20 ' 
 
 New York 12 " 25 27 
 
 Climate. — Council Bluffs is in latitude 41 J°, Du- 
 buque 42 1 °, Green Bay 43 J°, and Mackinaw City 
 about 46°. By reference to the following tables ol' 
 temperature, it will be seen that these points are 
 about on the same isothermal line, practically remov- 
 ing, -by these tables, the prejudices generally exist- 
 ing against the climate of northern Michigan — see 
 Blodgett's Climatology and Army Meteorologieal 
 Reports of United States. 
 
 Quebec, Canada, average in January above zero, 13° 
 
 Montreal, " " " " 16 
 
 Hampden, Maine " " ** 17 
 
 Portland, " ** " " 21 
 
 Cannel, " " « . « 15 
 
 Burlington, Vt " « " 19 
 
 Deerfield, Mass " « *' 21 
 
 Granville, N. Y " « " 22 
 
 Potsdam, " '' « " 18 
 
 Plattsburgh " " « " 20 
 
 Gouverneur, " " " " 20 
 
 Lowville, " " " " 22 
 
 Oneida, " " " " 22 
 
 Buffalo, " " « " 23 
 
 Silver Lake, Pa « « " 22 
 
 Concord, N. H " " " 22 
 
41i° 
 
 , Du- 
 
 inaw 
 
 City 
 
 tables of 
 
 Doints are 
 
 ly remov- 
 
 ally 
 
 exist- 
 
 ligan 
 
 — see 
 
 orological 
 
 zero, 
 
 13° 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 1.8 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 23 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 22 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 269 
 
 Boston, Mass. average in January above zero, 28° 
 
 Albany, N. Y " •' '« 24 
 
 Chicago, Illinois " " " 24 
 
 Ottawa, " " " " 23 
 
 Muscatine, Iowa " . " " 20 
 
 Detroit, Michigan " " " 27 
 
 Pittsburgh, Pa " « ** 29 
 
 Philadelphia, " " " " 32 
 
 Cincinnati, Ohio " ** " 30 
 
 Green Bay, Wis " ** " 19 
 
 Dubuque, Iowa, " « " 20 
 
 Council Bluffs " " " 19 - 
 
 Mackinaw City " " " 19 
 
 These extremes of latitude of Philadelphia and 
 
 Mackinaw include the principal agricultural, mining, 
 
 manufacturing, and commercial interests of America, 
 
 elements naturally pertaining to Michigan, and 
 
 gecond in their variety and extent to no State of the 
 
 Union. 
 
 Archangel, Russia, in January, averages above zero 6.60° 
 
 St. Petersburg, " " " " 15.70 
 
 Christiana, Norway, " " " 21.30 
 
 St. Bernard, Switzerland,.. " " " 14.40 
 
 Moscow, Russia, " " " 13.60 
 
 Erzeroum, Turkey, " " " 18. 
 
 Taganwa, Sea of Azof, " " " 20.70 
 
 Astracan, Caspian Sea,... " " " 21.30 
 
 Kasow (Volga) Russia " " " 3.50 
 
 Stockholm, Sweden " " " 24.30 
 
 Cracow, Poland, " " " 23.40 
 
 Pekin, China, " " " 26.00 
 
 Odessa, S. Russia " " " 25.20 
 
 Berlin, Prussia " " " 27.70 
 
 28* 
 
270 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Extremes below zero, 1835. 
 
 Bangor, Maine January 4, below 40" 
 
 Bath " " "40 
 
 Portland, " " "21 
 
 Boston, Mass " "15 
 
 Salem, " " "17 
 
 Chicago, 111 February 8, " 22 
 
 St. Louis, Mo " "22 
 
 Cincinnati, O " "18 
 
 Lexington, Ky " "20 
 
 Nashville, Tenn " '10 
 
 Huntsville, Ala " • 9 
 
 Philadelphia, Pa " " 6 
 
 Lancaster, Pa " "22 
 
 Washington City " "16 
 
 Clarksville, Geo " "15 
 
 Army Meteorological Eeports for 1854. 
 
 January. Range. above below 
 
 Mean. Max'm. min'm. mean. mean. 
 
 Fort Hamilton, N. Y. 31.49° 50. 12. 18.5 19.5 
 
 Fort Niagara, " 25.04 48. 6. 23. 19. 
 
 Alleghany, Pa 29.08 64. 5. 34.9 24.1 
 
 Fort Delaware, Md 32.38 54. 10. 21.6 17.4 
 
 Cincinnati, Ohio 31.78 54. 1. 22.2 32.8 
 
 Fort Snelling, Min 1.30 45. 36. 43.7 37.3 
 
 " Leavenworth, Kan. 24.68 67. 8. 32.3 32.7 
 
 " Mackinaw, Mich. 13.09 34. 15. 10.9 28.1 
 
 Blodgett's and Army Eain ChartS; showing rain 
 and snow in inches for a series of years. 
 
 Jan. Feb. M'ch. Dec. Total in year. 
 
 Mack'w Island, Mich. 1.25 .82 1.14 1.24 23.87 
 
 Fort Kent, Maine... 3.73 2.60 1.77 3.36 36.46 
 
 Portland, " ... 3.37 3.39 2.92 4.17 45.25 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 271 
 
 below 40° 
 
 « 
 
 40 
 
 « 
 
 21 
 
 « 
 
 15 
 
 <( 
 
 17 
 
 (1 
 
 22 
 
 (( 
 
 22 
 
 (( 
 
 18 
 
 (( 
 
 20 
 
 < 
 
 10 
 
 t 
 
 9 
 
 a 
 
 6 
 
 ii 
 
 22 
 
 « 
 
 16 
 
 « 
 
 15 
 
 bove 
 
 below 
 
 aean. 
 
 mean. 
 
 8.5 
 
 19.5 
 
 3. 
 
 19. 
 
 t4.9 
 
 24.1 
 
 1.6 
 
 17.4 
 
 2.2 
 
 32.8 
 
 3.7 
 
 37.3 
 
 2.3 
 
 32.7 
 
 0.9 
 
 28.1 
 
 Jan. 
 Charleston, Mass.. . . 2.66 
 Montreal, Canada.. 2.84 
 
 Fayetteville, Vt 3.93 
 
 Cincinnati, Ohio,... 3.35 
 Green Bay, Wis.. . . 1.19 
 
 Detroit, Mich 2.18 
 
 St. Louis, Mo 1.93 
 
 Fort Hamilton, N.Y. 2.98 
 
 Pittsburgh, Pa 2.18 
 
 Philadelphia, Pa 3.09 
 
 Feb. 
 
 M'ch. 
 
 Dec. Total in year. 
 
 2.22 
 
 4.08 
 
 2.27 
 
 35.83 
 
 1.84 
 
 2.69 
 
 2.58 
 
 47.28 
 
 3.91 
 
 4.07 
 
 3.55 
 
 53.99 
 
 3.51 
 
 3.93 
 
 4.29 
 
 46.89 
 
 0.87 
 
 1.70 
 
 1.30 
 
 34.65 
 
 1.38 
 
 2.86 
 
 1.30 
 
 30.07 
 
 3.37 
 
 3.82 
 
 1.99 
 
 41.95 
 
 3.67 
 
 3.65 
 
 3.84 
 
 43.65 
 
 2.17 
 
 2.70 
 
 3.13 
 
 34.96 
 
 2.94 
 
 3.43 
 
 4.03 
 
 43.56 
 
 Wing ram 
 
 Total in year. 
 23.87 
 36.46 
 45.25 
 
"rf. 
 
 CHAPTER Xin. 
 
 Agricultural interest — Means of transportation — Railways and 
 vessels — Lumber — Vessels cleared— Lake cities and Atlantic 
 ports — Home-market— Breadstuff's — Michigan flour — Mone- 
 tary panics — Wheat — Importations — Provisions — Fruit — 
 Live stock — Wool— Shipping business — Railroads — Lake 
 Superior trade — Pine lumber trade — Copper interest — Iron 
 interest — Fisheries — Coal mines — Salt — Plaster beds. 
 
 We copy from tbe Detroit Tribune of 1860, a 
 somewhat elaborate and lengthy article containing 
 recent and highly important information in regard 
 to the industrial interests of Michigan. Though 
 there are portions of this article which we have to 
 some extent anticipated in some of our previous 
 chapters, we consider it highly important to extract 
 largely from it, because of its more recent date. To 
 all interested in the development and future growth 
 of the Northwest, it will prove most valuable. The 
 writer, Mr. Kay Haddock, commercial editor of the 
 Tribune, says : — 
 (272) 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 273 
 
 " We know of no similar extent of country on the 
 globe so highly favored by nature as our own State, 
 which but twenty-three years since emerged from 
 the chrysalis condition of a territory, but wiiich to 
 day, by the quickening influence brought to bear 
 upon her natural advantages by an enterprising and 
 enlightened people, possesses elements of wealth and 
 greatness that might well be coveted by empires. 
 The characteristics for whicli she is pre-eminent are 
 neither few in number nor ordinary in character.- 
 She occupies the very front rank in respect to im- 
 portant minerals, as well as in the extent and quality 
 of her forest products, while her fisheries are altoge- 
 ther unrivaled, and, like her mines and forests, are 
 the source of exhaustless wealth. "With regard to 
 the extent and diversity of her natural resources, it 
 would indeed seem difficult to over-estimate them. 
 Predictions that seem visionary to-day, are to-mor- 
 row exceeded by the reality, as some new treasure is 
 revealed. A glance at the map is of itself the most 
 eloquent commentary that could be presented with 
 reference to her geographical position. As nature 
 does nothing in vain, the shipping facilities afforded 
 by the noble inland seas that clasp our shores, are a 
 sign and promise of the commercial greatness that 
 awaits us in the future. We mav well be proud of the 
 
X ;.'-' 
 
 274 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 condition of our agricultural interest — that great in- 
 terest which underlies every other ; which alike 
 gives to the wealthy his opulence and the beggar his 
 crust. Our farmers have unmistakably indicated 
 their determination to accept of no secondary 
 position in the quality of their wheat, and their wool 
 is not only rapidly gaining the first rank as respect 
 the amount produced, but is sought for with avidity 
 for its superior quality by all the principal manu- 
 facturers of the country. Pomona, too, has thrown 
 her influence in the scale. The region that has thus 
 far been devoted to the culture of fruit, in propor- 
 tion to its extent, cannot be surpassed in the Union, 
 if indeed it can be equaled. Such is a faint picture 
 of the * Peninsular State.' 
 
 *' The snail-like progress hitherto made in the set- 
 tlement of a large share of the State, is an enigma to 
 those not versed in our early history. While oc- 
 cupying the position of a dependent of the central 
 power at Washington, we were so unfortunate in 
 some instances as to have men placed over us with 
 whom personal interests were paramount to the great 
 interests of the territory, which, at the critical period 
 when the seeds of prosperity should have been planted, 
 was fatal to our advancement. Next came the era of 
 Utopian projects of internal improvement, by which 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 275 
 
 our people were saddled with an onerous load of debt. 
 In the mean time immigrants were misled by false 
 reports concerning the character of the soil in the in- 
 terior of the State, and there were no roads by means 
 of which they could satisfy themselves of the true 
 character of the country. They therefore passed on 
 to find homes upon what then seemed the most attrac- 
 tive prairies of the far West. But there is at last a 
 great change in the tide of affairs. The value of our 
 timber is justly regarded as greatly overbalancing 
 the doubtful advantage of settling upon prairie hind, 
 and the active demand that has recently sprung up 
 for it must constantly make a still greater difference 
 in our favor. Lands long held in the iron grasp of 
 speculators are rapidly coming into the possession of 
 actual settlers. Our State is being intersected by a 
 system of roads, which will ere long demonstrate the 
 necessity of an extension of the system. Our course 
 is indeed onward and upward. 
 
 " Having seen a statement, given upon the author- 
 ity of some gazeteer, to the effect that about six mil- 
 lion dollars were invested in this State in manufac- 
 turing, which we felt assured was a libel upon the 
 State, we have taken steps to procure statistics of the 
 more important industrial establishments throughout 
 the entire State. We find that in the manufacture 
 
276 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 of pine lumber alone, there are about seven million 
 dollars invested, exclusive of the standing timber of 
 proprietors, which perhaps might properly je in- 
 cluded as part of the capital. 
 
 Such indications of thrift, enterprise, and pros- 
 perity in a region that twenty-four years ago was 
 a howling wilderness, it may be safely said, is with- 
 out a parallel. The other counties, we are tolerably 
 safe in estimating, will swell the amount to $10,000,- 
 000, making, with the lumber manufactories, and 
 the $2,148,500, invested in the iron manufaotiuv, 
 more than twenty million dollars ! 
 
 The apathy of the citizens of Detroit in availing 
 themselves of the magnificent advantages possessed 
 by the city for prosecuting manufacturing upon an 
 extensive scale, is wholly inexplicable. There is a 
 mine of unproductive wealth in our midst that might 
 at once be placed at compound interest. It now lies 
 dormant in the sinewy arms of men and the nimble 
 fingers of women and children. There is thus a 
 moral aspect in this question that addresses itself 
 with peculiar earnestness to the philanthropic. But 
 it were a philanthropy that would lay up treasures 
 on earth. Daily, almost hourly, raw material takes 
 its departure from our city destined to be received 
 at eastern manufactories, there to be worked up and 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 277 
 
 returned to ua for our consumption, by which we 
 arc taxed with the freight both ways, in addition to 
 losing the profit of the manufacture. Every pro- 
 perty holder has a direct interest at stake. If a 
 liberal sum were to be subscribed to-morrow for in- 
 vestment in this important brancli of enterprise, the 
 direct benefit that would accrue to the real estate of 
 the city would be at least double the amount in- 
 vested. 
 
 The Western States look with deep interest to the 
 Grand Trunk Kailway, and are hopeful that it may 
 prove a great benefit to them in enabling producers 
 to reach the markets of European consumers at a 
 cheap rate for carriage. Unquestionably great bene- 
 tits will grow out of the opening up of the great 
 thoroughfare. At the same time there are questions 
 of grave importance to shippers which will soon 
 have to be met, and nothing can be lost, while some- 
 thing may be gained, by meeting them at the out- 
 set. 
 
 We set out, then, with the proposition that the 
 bulky products of the West must be carried by 
 water and not by rail, and will state a few facts that 
 ia our humble opinion will place this proposition be- 
 yond all cavil. So far as figures can be obtained, and 
 correct calculations made, it has been demonstrated 
 24 
 
278 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 that freight cannot bo moved on American railroniis 
 for less than one cent per ton per mile. This is nc- 
 tually tha first cost, even in the coal regions of Penn- 
 sylvania. It is therefore fair to presume that the 
 Grand Trunk, with conceded advantages of superior 
 and economical management, cannot move freight at 
 a less cost, and that the figure named will yield no- 
 thing to the stockholders in the shape of dividend. 
 It is true that freight has been carried at an aetual 
 loss, and, as we are about to show, the same thing 
 will to some extent be done again, but if persevorcrl 
 in this can only result in ruin, and no one will assert 
 that it ought to be taken as a legitimate basis for 
 future calculations. It follows, then, that $8,80 is the 
 lowest sum for which a ton can be moved from Be 
 troit to Portland, the distance between the two cities 
 being eight hundred and eighty miles. This show 
 ing may not be relished by those most immediately 
 interested in the Grand Trunk Eailway, nor may it be 
 palatable to the producers of the West, who have 
 built high hopes on this road as an outlet to the At- 
 lantic, but it is useless to attempt to shut our eyes 
 to obvious facts. The West has for years possessed 
 shorter and consequently cheaper routes to the sea- 
 board, and in winter the cost of reaching the At 
 lantic cities has alwavs been and now is from 100 to 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 279 
 
 200 per cent, greater by rail than during the navi- 
 gation setuson by the cheaper mode. This is easily 
 proved. Let us look at the distance by the old route 
 by the way of Suspension Bridge : 
 
 Detroit to Suspension Bridge, is 232 miles; the 
 Bridge to Albany, 300 ; Albany to Boston 200 ; 
 total 782. 
 
 Thus we sec that the whole distance from Detroit 
 to Boston is seven hundred and thirty -two miles, or 
 one hundred and ibrty-eight less tlian (Vom Detroit; 
 to Portland. As regards shipments from Detroit to 
 Boston, via the Grand Trunk, the matter is worse, 
 for we have to add one hundred and three miles from 
 Portland to Boston, making the old route two hun- 
 dred and fifty-three miles shorter to that point than 
 by the newly opened road. It ia evident therefore, 
 that the West is not likely to gain anything per- 
 manently by the new route, except in so far as it 
 may open up some local trade, which, inconsider- 
 able at first, may eventually assume considerable 
 importance. Of course, what is true regarding Detroit, 
 is also true with respect to every point west of us. 
 
 Every one conversant with trade must admit that 
 goods can be carried as cheap from any port in 
 Europe to New York as to Portland. The distance 
 from New York to Detroit, via Albany and Suspen- 
 
28o 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 sion Bridge, is six hundred and eighty- two miles, or 
 one hundred and ninety-eight miles less than from 
 Portland to Detroit. Goods ought certainly to be 
 carried cheaper from New York to Detroit than by 
 a route near two hundred miles further. 
 
 We learn that the New York Central Eailroad 
 Company are now perfecting a plan for ticketing 
 passengers and goods from any point in the Western, 
 Southern, and Southwestern States, and vice versa. 
 Thus at least one important advantage to the West 
 is already apparent, growing out of the comprehen- 
 sive action of the Grand Trunk managers, while the 
 action of the New York Central is the sure precur- 
 sor of a momentous era in railroad annals. The pre- 
 sent year is likely to witness the first battle in a war 
 for the European and domestic trade of the West, 
 that may in the end turn the entire current into 
 other channels. It will be a strife of giants, and the 
 prize the most magnificent ever battled for, either in 
 the tented field or in the nobler contests of nations 
 for commercial supremacy. That prize is the car- 
 rying trade of an empire fast rising into manly 
 vigor, and destined to attain to a point during the 
 present generation that will dazzle the world with 
 its vastness and grandeur. On one side will be 
 arrayed the Grand Trunk Eailway, with its sixty 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 281 
 
 vice versa. 
 
 million dollars of capital, backed by the government 
 of Canada, and sustained by every merchant of the 
 British North American colonies, aided by powerful 
 friends in Europe — men of character, standing and 
 capital, who will strain every nerve to supply 
 their darling road with business, in which they will 
 have the sympathy of the whole English people — 
 for in both England and Canada the Grand Trunk 
 is looked upon as a great triumph of national engi- 
 neering skill, while at the same time it gratifies the 
 national pride, as it gives the world one more con- 
 vincing proof of that indomitable pluck that is the 
 chief secret of the great celebrity attained by the 
 merchants of the " fast anchored isle" for commer- 
 cial enterprise. 
 
 On the other side will be marshaled the forces of 
 the " Grand Trunk" lines of railroad leading to the 
 Western States from the Atlantic sea-board. The 
 most prominent on the list is the New York Central 
 Railroad, with her natural allies, the Great Western 
 of Canada, the Hudson Kiver Kailroad, and the 
 Western Kailroad of Massachusetts. Next in 
 order, as parties in the struggle, are the New York 
 and Erie, the Pennsylvanij^ Central, and the Balti- 
 more and Ohio Railroad, not to speak of the local 
 24*- 
 
282 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 roads in Ohio, Indiana, and Michigan, that will be 
 affected more or less in the contest for supremacy. 
 
 The Grand Trunk will fight under one banner, 
 and that banner will carry on its broad folds the 
 commercial prestige of the British Empire, and will 
 have the sympathy of the British people. This, 
 which will probably carry with it, as a coincident, 
 plenty of the " sinews of war," will be decidedly a 
 vantage ground to stand upon. > 
 
 The American interests will come into the field 
 under different leaders, having no unity of action, 
 and hating and fearing each other ; who have never 
 had confidence in each others' words or actions; 
 who have never displayed any generosity toward 
 each other; whose dealings with each other have 
 been marked by cheating and bad faith, as the 
 breaking of all convention treaties has proved. 
 TJnder such a load of demoralization, all of them 
 combined are perhaps not more than a match for 
 the Grand Trunk. One of the American roads will 
 have to stand in the van and sustain the first onset, 
 and the elected one will be the New York Central. 
 In every point of view it is the one best able to dc 
 so. It is managed and controlled by men of large 
 experience and iron will — men who do not know 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 283 
 
 what defeat is, and who, come what may, will show 
 that their metal has the true ring. 
 
 The result of such a contest none can foresee; 
 albeit after the smoke of the battle is cleared away, 
 the wreck will only show that it has been a costly 
 and useless fight for the stockholders, and the con- 
 viction that God's highways are superior to man's 
 will gain strength, insomuch as to assume far more 
 practical importance than it has hitherto attained. 
 The only method of carrying on a successful trade 
 between the Western States and the seaports of Eu- 
 rope, is by water, and to this conclusion all mus*: 
 come, in the end, on both sides of the Atlantic. 
 
 In order to make the trade productive of sub- 
 stantial benefit to all interested in it, the West must 
 have free course down the St. Lawrence, and an en- 
 largement of the Canadian canals, so that vessels of 
 say eighteen hundred tons can pass down to the 
 ports of Montreal and Quebec without unloading, 
 and continue on their way to Europe without break- 
 ing bulk. A depth of fourteen feet water, with 
 locks of corresponding capacity on the canals 
 would accomplish this important end. The multifa- 
 rious and rapidly increasing products of the Great 
 West, her timber, flour, wheat, corn, oats, rye, bar- 
 ley, pork, beef, butter, lard, cheese, meal, and every 
 
tcM^ 
 
 284 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 I M 
 
 description of agricultural produce could then be 
 laid down in the ports of England so cheaply that 
 it would greatly reduce the cost of the necessaries 
 of life, and give a new impetus to the manufacturing 
 interest of Great Britain. At the same time it 
 would directly tend to cheapen every article that 
 the West requires to import, thus proving of double 
 advantage to our producers. In both cases the pro- 
 ducer and consumer would be brought face to face, 
 to the obvious advantage of all concerned. The 
 manufacturing prosperity of England depends upon 
 an unlimited supply of cheap labor, and that supply 
 cannot be had unless she can supply such laborers 
 with an unlimited supply of cheap food. The West 
 has the capacity not only to furnish an inexhaus- 
 tible quantity of cheap food, but it can purchase 
 and consume a larger amount of the productions of 
 English skill and labor than any other section of 
 the world. Why, then, cannot both parties hit on 
 some scheme that will bring them more closely into 
 the fellowship of trade? It can be done, if both 
 will unite to obtain an unimpeded outlet via the St. 
 Lawrence for vessels and steamers of heavy burden. 
 So far as Quebec and Montreal are concerned, it 
 is very difficult to say whether the consummation 
 of the proposed enlargement would redound most 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 285 
 
 to their benefit, or to that of our Western lake 
 cities. In both cases the gain would be beyond 
 computation. The two important Canadian cities 
 named wou^d become at once important seaports. 
 They would become two of the depots for the vast 
 commerce of two continents, and would derive great 
 benefits from the opening up of a local traffic with 
 the West, which at present amounts to but very 
 little, so far as they are concerned. Our lake cities 
 would all become large commercial centres, and 
 would supply the population of the region tribu- 
 tary to them, respectively, with dry goods, crockery, 
 hardware, paints, oils, and all kinds of imported 
 merchandise, at a cheaper rate by a considerable 
 per centage, than they could be purchased at New 
 York, or any city on the Atlantic. Detroit would 
 be much nearer Liverpool than Buffalo now is by 
 the usual route, and Chicago and Milwaukee would 
 be almost as near, practically. 
 
 A few figures will show the decided advantage 
 of water over rail as a medium of transporting the 
 bulky products of the West to market. 
 
 It has already been shown that a ton of any kind 
 of freight cannot be laid down at Portland from 
 Detroit, by rail, under $8.80, without a loss to the 
 stockholders, nor to Boston under $9.65, except 
 
erl 
 
 286 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 with the same result; nor at New York via the 
 Great Western, New York Central, and Hudson 
 River roads under $6.82, without actual loss to 
 those roads, so that the case would stand thus : — 
 Detroit to Portland, per ton, via G. T. R., $8.80 ; 
 Detroit to Boston, do. do., $9.85 ; Detroit to New 
 York, $6.82. Add $4,00 per ton for ocean freights, 
 and we have in each case respectively, $12.80, 
 $13.85, and $10.82 per ton to Liverpool. 
 
 Now we maintain that a screw steamer of 1800 
 tons burden, costing, when completed, $150,000, can 
 carry much cheaper than a road like the Grand 
 Trunk, costing $60,000,000, or the New York Cen- 
 tral and its connections. A steamer of that capa- 
 city would carry 1,500 tons of freight ; 600 tons of 
 coal would run her across the Atlantic, and she 
 could coal from Chicago or Detroit to Newfound- 
 land, and from the latter point to Liverpool. By 
 doing this, she could carry 300 tons more freight 
 than if she coaled for the entire voyage from Chi- 
 cago to Liverpool. All the principal exports and 
 imports of Michigan, Indiana, Western Ohio, Ken- 
 tucky, &c., would find their way to Detroit, and this 
 point would of necessity become the great centre 
 of the direct trade between Europe and the States 
 above mentioned. 
 
 r 
 '.'1 
 
 i 
 
 I, 
 
 11 
 
 m 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 287 
 
 Two steamers per week could be run with profit 
 on the route during the season of navigation ; each 
 steamer would make two round trips and a half per 
 season of seven months' navigation, allowing two 
 months for each round trip. At this rate sixteen 
 ocean steamers would be required to make up a 
 semi- weekly line, and were the Canadian canals en- 
 larged and ready for use by the middle of next 
 April, there would be at once sufficient trade to sus- 
 tain them, at much cheaper rates for freight and 
 passage than is now charged by any route or com- 
 bination of routes in existence, as the following will 
 show conclusively : 
 
 Each round trip would give the following sums 
 for freight and passage : — 1600 tons of freight at $6 
 per ton, $9,000 ; 40 cabin passengers at $50 each, 
 $2,000 ; 50 steerage do. do. $26 each, $1,260. Total 
 for the trip out, $12,250. Inward bound : — 600 tons 
 feight at $6, $3,600; 76 cabin passengers at $60, 
 $4,500; 300 steerage do. do., $30, $9.000— $17,100. 
 Add outward receipts, $12,260. Total, $29,350. 
 The total cost of the trip, including insurance, 
 would not exceed $14,000. Total net profits, 
 $15,260. 
 
 It will be seen by the above figures that our 
 staple products can be carried to England in the 
 
288 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 right kind of vessels, at one half the cost that rail- 
 roads and connecting steamers can perform the 
 same service, even when the latter carry at a rate 
 that brings no profit to the shareholders, while the 
 former would pay large dividends. At the rates 
 named for passage (but little more than one-half the 
 present cost of going from Detroit to England) 
 crowds of the European settlers in this country 
 would flock to the mother country to see dear friends 
 and relatives, and tens of thousands of the Ameri- 
 can people would embrace the opportunity to be- 
 hold the tombs and temples and wonders of the land 
 from whence their ancestors came. A feeling of 
 friendship of the true stamp would spring up spon- 
 taneously between the Anglo-Saxon races on each 
 side of the Atlantic that never could be severed, 
 and which would alternately shed the blessings of 
 Christianity and civilization to every corner of the 
 world. Such free intercourse would show that to 
 be appreciated by each other they only need to be 
 better acquainted. And it is our firm belief, that 
 the day that beholds the commencement of direct 
 trade between the old world and in the inland seas 
 of the Great West, by vessels of the class named, 
 will see a day of glory and promise brighter and 
 greater than has ever yet dawned on any efforts put 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 289 
 
 forth to subdue the world by human means, to peace 
 and universal brotherhood. 
 
 Our readers are aware that a trade of great im- 
 portance has sprung up within two or three years 
 between Detroit and otlier lake ports, and the lead- 
 ing seaports of Europe. The particulars of its inau- 
 guration are already familiar to the public. Of the 
 vessels which cleared lience in this trade in 1858, one 
 was owned and sent out by a mcrcliant of tliis city; 
 another was loaded by a Cleveland liousc ; the others 
 were all owned or chartered by Capt. D. C. Pierce, 
 the enterprising pioneer of the trade. His first ven- 
 ture on the Kci-fihaiv, notwithstanding some few inci- 
 dental circumstances that worked to his disadvantage, 
 was productive of some direct profit, but a much 
 greater })rofit inured to himself, and those who fol- 
 lowed him in this important commerce, by his be- 
 coming well versed in tlie European trade, insomucli 
 as to be enabled to avail himself of the peculiar ad- 
 vantages oftered by each market, as well as in determi- 
 ning the character of freight most profitable to carry. 
 The cheapest, best and safest means of transporting 
 the diversified products of the West, and particularly 
 the region of which Detroit is the centre, to the Euro- 
 pean markets, reurning with foreign fabrics in ex- 
 change, had long challenged the attention of capital- 
 
 j.) 
 
 \ 
 
«" 
 
 290 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1 ) 
 
 istS; who saw in it the germ of a miglity commerce, 
 but seemed to luck the practical knowledge and 
 tact to put the ball in motion. Last year twenty-one 
 vessels cleared from the different lake ports, mostly 
 from Detroit. 
 
 Another important point which is now in a fair 
 way to be gained, is the making of European con- 
 sumers acquainted with the fact that their wants 
 can be supplied to any desired extent. When this 
 iiilormation becomes general the consumption must 
 be vastly stimulated, affording one of the most in- 
 viting fields for enterprise known in the commercial 
 annals of the world. The resources of the State 
 are amply sufficient to afford employment for half a 
 century to a tenfold larger number of vessels than 
 have yet engaged in it. By a carefully compiled 
 estimate, it has been ascertained that in prosperous 
 times the annual product of our ^^mer/es is hard 
 upon TEN MILLION poLLARS. Large as this sum is, 
 it is the opinion of those who are well qualified to 
 form an estimate, that it may easily be surpassed 
 by the product of our hard timber. Take for ex- 
 ample the region around Saginaw Bay, which is 
 perhaps the most I'oinarkable locality in the world 
 as respects the quality and variety of hard wood 
 timber. Here, f<^r near a hundred miles in extent, 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 291 
 
 upon streams dohoucliing into t,lio buy, arc dense 
 torests of the choicest oak, witli a profusion of hick- 
 ovy, black wahiut, white ash, whitewood, and otlier 
 desirable varieties. Tiio manufacture of agricultu- 
 ral implements, as well as many other articles that 
 .•itlbrd employment to tlie toiling millions of the old 
 world, must receive a new impetus when it is found 
 that wood admirably adapted to their construction 
 can be had direct from our forests at the moderate 
 rate at which it will bear transportation. So of 
 birds-eye maple for cabinet ware, red elm for car- 
 riage hubs, and other varieties applicable to specific 
 uses. We have designated only such as abound in 
 great plenty. The profusion of the growth is in 
 fact equaled only by its accessibility, the whole 
 country being so permeated by streams that it can 
 be floated off with very little trouble. 
 
 The Saginaw District, important and extensive as 
 it is, comprises but a small portion of our hard-wood 
 lumber region. In addition to numerous almost in- 
 terminable forests in the north, equally accessible 
 and almost equally valuable, there are extensive re- 
 gions in the interior where timber abounds of such 
 choice quality as to abundantly warrant railroad 
 transportation hither. Although some of the ship- 
 ments last season were of the far-famed Canada oak, 
 
2i)2 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 8hii)por.s all concJir in assuring us that tlic Michigan 
 timber was liokl in ashi^h ostiniation. if not liigliyr, 
 tlmn any othiM* oflbrtMl in tlio f()r(.'i«^ni market. A 
 most signidcant fact, (joining rlglit to tlie point, canu! 
 under our oljservation a few months since. In tho 
 summer of 1858, five- passenger cars for the Miiihi 
 gan Southern Koad were huilt at Adrian, wliieli un- 
 prejudiced judg(!s j)ronoune(Ml the ilnest (?ver Iniih. 
 in the United States. Every loot of timber in them 
 — as well as every pound (jf iron — was of Arichigan 
 production. Last spring, after being in use some 
 twenty months, these cars were for the first time 
 overhauled for repairs, along with a number of 
 eastern cars which had been in use for a like period of 
 time, when it was found that the latter, owing to the 
 inferior quality of timber, cost for repairs nearly as 
 many dollars as the Michigan cars did cents I Wo 
 have the authority of gentlemen of the highest re- 
 spectablity for stating this as a literal fact. 
 
 The following is a complete list of the vessels 
 which cleared for European ports the past year, to- 
 gether with the character of their cargoes, respec- 
 tively, and the port to which they sailed : — 
 
 Bark D. C. Pierce, Staves, Liverpool. 
 
 " Allies, Lumber and staves, Cork. 
 
 " W. S. Picrson, Lumber and staves, Greenock. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ^93 
 
 Ituik iMuJ'Millon, 
 
 liiniilxM' un<i staves, 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 Hrig 
 
 .1. (J. PrshU'r, 
 
 St lives. 
 
 Glasgow. 
 
 • • 
 
 Caroline, 
 
 Linnlif'r und staver". 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 tt 
 
 Hluck lluwk, 
 
 Htaves, 
 
 London. 
 
 Hchr 
 
 It. II. Iliu'inon, 
 
 .Staves, 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 It 
 
 J. F. Wan.or, 
 
 Staves, 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 ti 
 
 (jold Iluntcr, 
 
 Staves, 
 
 Cork. 
 
 (I 
 
 Dousmun, 
 
 Staves, 
 
 London, 
 
 i( 
 
 Valeriu, 
 
 Lumber and .staves, 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 H 
 
 VanguartI, 
 
 Staves, 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 tt 
 
 Grand Turk, 
 
 liuniber, ' 
 
 Hamburg. 
 
 tt 
 
 St. Helena, 
 
 liUmber and staves. 
 
 Cork. 
 
 ti 
 
 Chieftain, 
 
 lainiber and staves, 
 
 London, 
 
 tt 
 
 C. H. WalkLM', 
 
 Lumber and staves. 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 tt 
 
 M. S. Hcott, 
 
 liUmber, 
 
 Hamburg, 
 
 tt 
 
 E. Bates, 
 
 Lumber and staves, 
 
 Liverpool 
 
 It 
 
 H. Barclay, 
 
 .Staves, 
 
 London. 
 
 tt 
 
 Republican, 
 
 Lumber and staves. 
 
 Cadiz. 
 
 il 
 
 Messenger, 
 
 .Staves, &c. 
 
 Calais. 
 
 Of the above, Messenger cleared from Buftalo; the 
 Pienson and Republican hailed from Milan, Ohio; 
 the Massillon and Valeria from Cleveland ; the Scott 
 loaded at St. Joseph, and was sent out by a Milwaukee 
 house ; all the others either loaded at this port, or 
 were owned or chartered here. Eight of the number 
 were chartered by Messrs. Aspinwall & Son, and two 
 of the others were owned here. 
 
 The following is the aggregate amount of lumber 
 and staves shipped to Europe the past year, exclusive 
 of the cargoes from Cleveland, Milan, and Buffalo : — 
 
fl ll^ 
 
 294 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 West India staves No 692,057 
 
 Standard pipe staves, No 142,662 
 
 Lumber, feet 474,693 
 
 [A Quebec standard pipe is equal to four West India staves.! 
 
 The Lily of Kingston, was the ^rst vessel that 
 ever passed down from the lakes to the ocean, 
 bound to an European port. Her destination was 
 Liverpool. This was about the year 1847. She after- 
 ward sailed in the Quebec and Liverpool trade, but 
 was lost, we believe, on her third ocean voyage. 
 
 As collateral to this trade, an important commerce 
 has sprung up between the lake cities and the At- 
 lantic ports which promise to increase rapidly. 
 Prior to 1857, the passage of vessels from the Wel- 
 land Canal to the ocean was of very rare occurrence. 
 As a matter of curiosity, we present a complete state- 
 ment of the vessels which have passed through the 
 canal bound for Atlantic or European ports, with the 
 year of sailing, avoiding a repetition of the list above 
 given. The Dean Eichmond, and those clearing in 
 1857 and 1858, all sailed for Europe. Those desig- 
 nated in this list as having sailed in 1859, all cleared 
 for Atlantic ports : 
 
 1847 . . . American steam revenue cutter Dallis. 
 " ... Canadian barque Arabia. 
 1848. . .American barque Eureka. 
 1850. . .Canadian schooner Scotia. 
 
jcurrence. 
 
 1854.. 
 1855.. 
 1856.. 
 1857.. 
 
 ii 
 
 1858. . 
 
 ii 
 ii 
 
 €i 
 
 ii 
 ii 
 ii 
 Ii 
 
 1859.. 
 
 ii 
 
 a 
 
 (t 
 t< 
 « 
 (( 
 (( 
 II 
 it 
 it 
 u 
 (< 
 (( 
 (< 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 .Canadian schooner Cherokee. 
 . Canadian bark Reindeer. 
 .American schooner Dean Richmond. 
 . American bark C. J. Kershaw. 
 .English schooner Madeira Pet. 
 . American brig IJlack Hawk. 
 .American schooner R. H. Harmon. 
 .American schooner Col. Cook. 
 . American schooner C>orrespondent. 
 .American bark D. C. Pierce, 
 .American schooner 1). B. Sexton. 
 . American schooner John E. Warner. 
 . American bark H. E. Warner. 
 . American bark C, J. Kershaw, 
 .American schooner C. Reeve. 
 .American schooner Harvest. 
 . American bark Parmelia Flood. 
 .American bark Magenta 
 .American brig Sultan. 
 .American brig Indus. 
 . American brig Kate L. Bruce. 
 .Canadian schooner Union. 
 .American schooner Kyle Spangler. 
 .American schooner Muskingum. 
 .American schooner Adda. 
 .American schooner Clifton. 
 . American schooner Metropolis. 
 .American schooner Energy. 
 • American schooner W. B. Castle. 
 .American schooner Alida. 
 .American tug Uncle Ben. 
 .American tug Cushman, 
 .American schooner Typhoon. 
 . American schooner Sarah Hibbert. 
 
 295 
 
296 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Presuming that those who may hereafter become 
 interested in this commerce, would like the benefit 
 of the experience of those who have already em- 
 barked it, we have procured some valuable informa- 
 tion for their benefit. First, as to the kind of timber 
 most profitable to ship : Although black walnut ap- 
 pears to be growing in favor, and where once it has 
 been used is again inquired for, yet a decided pre- 
 ference is given to oak, with the qualities of whicli 
 all are entirely familiar. Choice, selected oak com- 
 mands more money for cabinet purposes in all the 
 foreign markets than the same quality of black wal- 
 nut. Contrary to previous expectation, it is not 
 likely that the latter can ever be brought into general 
 use in Great Britain. It is the greatest mahogany 
 market in the world, and that wood is in universal 
 use, particularly the common or cheap kind. If ever 
 so common, it is not liable to warp, which cannot be 
 said of black walnut, although, as we have before 
 intimated, those who have worked it, praise it very 
 highly. Beech, elm and ash, are used for a great 
 many purposes, and are in good demand, but oak 
 commands more money than either of them, and is 
 therefore the most profitable to ship at present. 
 
 The fact is notg enerally known, but the informa- 
 tion has been purchased at a dear rate, that the pur- 
 
Old Mackinaw 
 
 297 
 
 chase of lumber for the foreign market by board- 
 measure, instead of cubic, involves a heavy loss. 
 In European markets all lumber is sold by the cubic 
 foot, so that the cost of sawing is completely thrown 
 away. Black walnut, for example, cannot be laid 
 down in Detroit, or any lake port, under $18 to $20 
 per M., while the lumber can be obtained for $125 to 
 $150 per M. cubic feet, 1,000 feet cubic measure 
 being equal to 12,000 feet board measure. Thus, in 
 purchasing by cubic measure, the buyer pays only 
 $125 to $150 for an amount that by board measure 
 would cost $216 to $240, making a clear difference 
 of ninety dollars upon only one thousand cubic feet, 
 equal to $900 upon a cargo of some of the vessels 
 engaged in the trade last year. The same rule 
 would apply substantially to other kinds of lumber. 
 Independent of this, a decided preference is given to 
 lumber in the log, owing to the good condition in 
 which it can be delivered. There is one more point 
 which manufacturers as well as shippers should bear 
 in mind. The value of much of the lumber sent 
 out was greatly impaired by being attached to the 
 heart, which is the most porous part of the tree, and 
 therefore most liable to crack. To obviate this ob- 
 jection the saw should pass upon each side of the 
 heart, thus leaving the whole of it attached to a 
 
298 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 
 single piece of timber, instead of one or more pieces, 
 and thereby making only one cull. By observiiu/ 
 this rule a difference will be made in the market of 
 thirty or forty per cent. 
 
 Are staves or lumber the more profitable to ship ? 
 This depends upon circumstances. Last year it was 
 very dull for both. For staves especially the season 
 could not, for various reasons, have been more unfa- 
 vorable. In the first place, the grape crop was a very 
 short one, not only in France, but in all the vine 
 countries, including the Canaries. This, of course, 
 greatly lessened the demand for staves, and there 
 were consequently very few taken from England to 
 France, althoi;?-h French vessels are in the habit of 
 taking them for u Hast at a merely nominal rate, ow- 
 ing to the difficulty they experience in procuring 
 return freights from England. The short crops in 
 Canada and the great scarcity of money, forced an 
 unusual number of laborers in that country into the 
 stave and lumber business. Under advices that 
 heavy shipments were in prospect, coupled with the 
 general check upon business on account of the war, 
 prices became depressed. Notwithstanding all this, 
 the shipments hence, being early in the market, 
 sold to advantage, and may therefore be considered 
 as a signal success, under the circumstances. The 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 299 
 
 smallest vessel going out from here netted a freight 
 of $3,500. 
 
 The most striking feature with regard to Detroit, 
 in a commercial point of view, is her admirable loca- 
 tion, which constitutes her the metropolis of a vast 
 region, than which no city off' the sea-board can 
 boast one equally grand or important. The region 
 embraces a circuit of some three thousand miles, 
 composed of land and water, which both seem .to 
 vie with each other in contributing to the material 
 prosperity of our city, while every interest involved 
 is benefited in some degree by her. In the far 
 north, where the rugged coast of the upper penin- 
 sula is lashed by the waters of the monarch of lakes, 
 Detroit enterprise assists in redeeming the hidden 
 treasures of the earth from their state of profitless 
 inertion. There is not a hardy delver in tlie mines 
 who is not familiar with the skill of Detroit ma- 
 chinists, nor an echo in all the majestic wilds skirt- 
 ing that noble expanse of waters, that has not been 
 awakened by Detroit steamers. Further down upon 
 the limpid waters of Lake Huron, where the army 
 or rather the navy of fishermen set their nets for 
 the capture of the finny tribes, liore, too, our city 
 possesses an interest almost as direct as if the canvas 
 of their tiny crafts were spread Avithin sight of her 
 
300 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 spires, the product comprising one of the most im- 
 portant staples in her multiform commerce. Last, 
 but not least, is the great lumber region with whicli 
 the prosperity of Michigan is so largely identified. 
 The population of this region, as well as of the 
 others we have referred to, raise almost literally no- 
 thing for their own consumption, their respective 
 pursuits being inconsistent with that of tillers of the 
 soil, so that in addition to the usual stores required 
 by farmers, they have to purchase their breadstuff's 
 and similar supplies. The bulk of these are bought 
 of our dealers, this being not only the most con- 
 venient, but the cheapest and best market, as is 
 amply proven by experience. 
 
 Under the appropriate head will be found a com- 
 plete and authentic statement of the commerce of 
 the Saut St. Mary Canal, by which it will be seen that 
 the aggregate value of the upward- bound freight is 
 estimated at $5,298,640. The up-freight nearly all 
 carried by steamers, of which the number running 
 the entire season was seven, three from Detroit, one 
 from Chicago, and three from Cleveland. The De 
 troit boats have generally been loaded to their 
 utmost capacity, while we have the word of the 
 Cleveland captains to the effect that two-thirds of 
 their cargoes are usually taken on at this port. We 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 301 
 
 must therefore be clearly within bounds in claiming 
 that three-fourths of the above amount is part and 
 parcel of the commerce of our city which would 
 show our Lake Superior exports to be $3,960,000. 
 In seasons in which the crops of our Canadian neigh- 
 bors partially fail — a common occurrence within the 
 past few years, but which we hope may never occur 
 again — they naturally become our customers; and 
 since the partial destruction of the wheat crop in 
 Ohio last summer by frost, there have been con- 
 siderable shipments of breadstuff's to Cleveland, To- 
 ledo, Sandusky, etc., which may very properly be 
 included in the home traffic. 
 
 The shipments of flour and grain for the supply 
 of our home trade by lake craft, from the opening 
 of navigation for the year 1869, as appears by the 
 books of our Custom House, are as follows : 
 
 Flour. 
 
 Port Huron 10,885 . . . 
 
 Saginaw 3,790. . . 
 
 Cleveland 6,155 . . . 
 
 Thunder Bay 106... 
 
 Green Bay u . . . 175. . . 
 
 Northport 175. .. 
 
 Sandusky 705. . . 
 
 Huron, 660. . . 
 
 Toledo 665. . . 
 
 Lake Superior 11,321. . . 
 
 26 
 
 Wheat 
 253 
 30 
 28,057 
 
 616 
 
 Corn. 
 6,916 
 
 • • 
 
 1,146 
 
302 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Flour. Wheat 
 Other Amrican ports 245 
 
 Maiden 1,289. ... 160 
 
 Chatham 3,671. . . . 1,736 
 
 Wallaceburg 705 
 
 Goderich 318 
 
 Saugcen 168 
 
 Bayaeld 200 
 
 Other Canadian ports 1,330.... 95 
 
 Corn. 
 
 • • 
 
 14,54tt 
 
 1,274 
 
 749 
 
 There were also 7,446 bushels oats to Port Huron, 
 and 588 bushels do. to other ports, beside 3,400 
 bushels corn, and 11,962 bushels oats which were 
 included in the heavy shipments to Lake Superior. 
 We give the places for which vessels cleared ; many 
 of the shipments were for intermediate ports. Be- 
 sides the flour and grain there were large shipments 
 of pork, butter, lard, meal, etc., etc. 
 
 The above were all by water. There were in 
 addition large local shipments to various points on 
 the Great Western, the Detroit and Milwaukee, and 
 other roads, that may with equal propriety be re- 
 garded as pertaining to the home trade. 
 
 The article of corn is one to secure customers, for 
 in Canada it is not essential there should be short 
 crops there. Large amounts are taken for the sup- 
 ply of the numerous distilleries on that side. A 
 single house in our city has sold the past year 
 100,000 bushels for that purpose. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 303 
 
 During the year commodities have been inter 
 changed by lake craft between Detroit and no fewer 
 than sixty-three lake and river ])ortH, to say nothing 
 of the hundreds of towns and cities on the various 
 railroads that are daily trading with us. We have 
 not included those ports to which the bulk of our 
 surplus produce is forwarded, but only such as come 
 strictly within the scope of our subject. There 
 are few places where trade develops statistics of si- 
 milar character, or anything approximating thereto, 
 while there are plenty of cities of no inconsiderable 
 pretensions, and even great advantages, that would 
 think themselves made if they possessed one-fourth 
 the commercial facilities we enjoy. 
 
 Within the past year, by the opening up of new 
 and most important channels of railway communi- 
 cation, our position with respect to the great railway 
 system of the continent, is rendered all that could 
 be desired. In that regard it is indeed difficult to 
 point out how any improvement could be made. 
 With respect to our local advantages, however, 
 admirable as they are, there is yet much in store 
 for us. The signs are far more favorable than at 
 any former period for the rapid settlement of the 
 State, as well as for the more adequate development 
 of her resources. We are constantly receiving in- 
 
304 
 
 OKI Mackinaw. 
 
 telligence that Home new Hource of wealth has been 
 revealed within our bordern, or that one })reviou.slv 
 (liHCOvered is likely to surpass the expeetations at, 
 first entertained. These events must not only tcMid 
 directly to hasten the settlement of the State, but 
 also add in a still greater ratio to her commercial 
 importance and lier wealth. 
 
 If we were to fail to refer, in this connection, to 
 the law passed by our legislature last winter, pro- 
 viding for the reclamation of the "swamp lands," 
 technically so called, and inaugurating an admirable 
 system of State roads throughout all the upper por- 
 tions of the State, we should be ignoring decidedly 
 the most pregnant of the signs of promise. In 
 adopting so well-timed and beneficent a measure, 
 our law-givers have proved themselves worthy 
 guardians of a commonwealth whose interests so 
 plainly bespeak a much greater degree of wise le- 
 gislation than has heretofore been wielded for her 
 benefit. Next in importance to these wholesome 
 measures, is the law providing for the appointment 
 of Commissioners of Emigration — one resident 
 here, and the other stationed in New York. Those 
 seeking homes in the West have only to be made 
 aware of the unequaled inducements presented by 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 3°: 
 
 «■-: 
 
 our State, to secure immense accessions to our popu- 
 lation. 
 
 Detroit does not alone reap the benefit of her 
 advantageous position. It is shared by all interests, 
 but perhaps by none others to so great an extent as 
 the tillers of the soil. It is a most significant fact 
 that breadstufFs and provisions not unfrequently 
 bring as high prices here as in New York, giving 
 producers all the advantages at home of a sea-board 
 market, and virtually putting the cost of shipment 
 g into their pockets. Thus a farmer whose land pos- 
 
 sesses a nominal value of ten or twenty dollars per 
 acre, can enjoy all the pecuniary advantages of a 
 location near one of the largest eastern cities, where 
 farms are valued at one to two hundred dollars 
 per acre. This fact alone should go very far toward 
 transforming our northern wilderness into cultivated 
 fields. 
 
 As a matter of interest, and to some extent of 
 curiosity, we present a comparative statement exhi- 
 biting the ruling prices of extra Michigan .flour 
 twice a month throughout the year, in Detroit, New 
 York and Liverpool, and also the prices in the 
 latter market, for the corresponding dates in the 
 year 1868 : 
 26* 
 
3o6 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Jun. Ist. 
 
 " inth. 
 
 Fob. 1st. 
 
 •• I5th. 
 Mar'h IhI. 
 
 " ISth. 
 April iHt. 
 
 •• 15th. 
 May l»i. 
 
 •• ir)th. 
 •Tunc l8t. 
 
 •• intli. 
 July l8t. 
 
 •* 15tli. 
 Aug. 1st. 
 
 •• l.5th. 
 Sept. Ist. 
 
 " 15th. 
 Oct. Ist. 
 
 " 1.5th. 
 Nov. Ist. 
 
 " 15th. 
 Dec. Ist. 
 
 *• 15th. 
 
 Liverpool, 'A8. 
 
 5 76tt0 74 
 5 76tt6 24 
 5 76u6 24 
 5 52uG 00 
 5 i)2ni) 24 
 5 .52ttG 24 
 5 2Ha5 52 
 5 2Ha5 7(5 
 5 28a5 52 
 5 28a5 .Vi 
 5 04ar) 28 
 .") ()4ar» 28 
 5 (Ha5 28 
 5 08a5 40 
 5 28a5 40 
 5 04a5 28 
 5 16a5 40 
 5 16a5 40 
 5 04a5 28 
 5 04a5 28 
 5 04a5 28 
 4 80a5 04 
 4 80a5 04 
 4 80a5 04 
 
 LIv'l., '.W. 
 4 80a5 01 
 4 80a5 04 
 4 80a5 04 
 4 80a5 04 
 4 80a5 04 
 4 80a5 04 
 4 80a5 04 
 
 4 80ii5 04 
 
 5 04 a5 28 
 r> OOaG 21 
 
 a5 7(J 
 a5 76 
 a 
 5 04a5 28 
 
 4 80a5 52 
 
 5 04a5 52 
 5 04a5 52 
 
 4 80a5 52 
 
 5 28a5 76 
 5 28a5 76 
 5 52a6 00 
 
 5 76a6 24 
 
 6 76a7 00 
 6 76a7 00 
 
 N. Vork, V.O. 
 
 4 l)5a5 15 
 
 5 60a5 85 
 5 90a6 40 
 
 5 90a6 25 
 
 6 .'(OaG 50 
 6 50a6 75 
 6 aOaG 75 
 6 00a6 60 
 
 6 25a6 75 
 
 7 30a7 85 
 7 00a7 40 
 6 70a7 05 
 6 00a6 50 
 5 45a6 00 
 4 90a5 50 
 4 30a4 65 
 4 40a5 00 
 4 65a4 85 
 4 7.5a5 10 
 
 4 80a5 20 
 
 5 00a5 30 
 5 24a5 45 
 5 45a5 65 
 5 48a5 65 
 
 Detroit, fto. 
 5 OOuf) 12 
 5 0()ii.:> 12 
 
 5 7rmf» (10 
 
 6 25u(; :,{) 
 (» 25ii<; .-)() 
 
 6 50a(; 75 
 
 a6 7ft 
 a() ,')0 
 ad no 
 aH 00 
 a7 r»0 
 
 7 12a7 :';■) 
 
 a7 25 
 
 7 00a7 12 
 
 4 75a4 87 
 
 4 50a4 75 
 
 4 62a4 75 
 
 4 25a4 50 
 
 4 62a4 75 
 
 a4 75 
 
 a5 00 
 
 a5 12 
 
 a5 12 
 
 a5 12 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 The Detroit mills manufacture excellent flour, 
 and it is to be regretted that they are not capable 
 of making a much larger quantity of their well- 
 known brands. There are six flouring mills of dif- 
 ferent capacities in the city, and although they are 
 generally at full work such is the demand for flour 
 they make, that they are very often not able to 
 
Old Muckinnw. 
 
 307 
 
 supply their customers. These mills ought to be 
 enlarged, or others built. Detroit, the eommereial 
 metropolis of a i^reat wheat-growing State, should 
 he capable of iiianufaeturing an immense quantity 
 of flour. The increased expenditure of money, in 
 I I the purchase of wheat, would bo very b»;netieial to 
 the trade of the city. 
 
 For the last lil'teen years, the exports of bread- 
 stufts from the United States have lluctuated very 
 much. In 1840 they amounted to nearly twenty- 
 eight millions of dollars, and rose in 1847 to sixty- 
 nine millions. In 1848 they fell to thirty-seven, 
 and in 1852 to twenty-six millions. In 18o3 they 
 amounted to nearly thirty-three millions, and in 
 
 1854 they rose to about sixty-n\illions, but fell in 
 
 1855 to about thirty-nine millions, and again rose in 
 1857 to seventy-seven millions. In 1858 they again 
 declined to about fifty millions. We cannot accu- 
 rately detail the exports of 1859, but they have 
 been very light on account of fall in the European 
 market, after the termination of the war in Italy. 
 During these years there were various causes for 
 the remarkable fluctuations which we have noted ; 
 namely, famine in Ireland, the Crimean war, and 
 the failures of the harvest at home and abroad, nor 
 have these exportations been regularly divided or 
 
♦? 
 
 3o8 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 spread over the various months of each year. They 
 have increased or diminished according to the Eu- 
 ropean demand, governed by the supply at home 
 and regulated by advices from the other side of the 
 Atlantic. It is likely that the export of breadstuffs 
 in 1860 will be very considerable. 
 
 Michigan possesses many advantages over her 
 sister States, and these enable her to bear up against 
 monetary panics better than they. Her immense 
 length of lake coast is indented with excellent har- 
 bors, which invite commerce from every quarter, 
 and furnish excellent outlets for her surplus produce 
 or mineral wealth. The great and diversified re- 
 sources of the State support her in the evil day, and 
 bring her through a commercial crisis in safety. 
 From the ushering in of the year to the close, there 
 is not a day in which the marts of commerce are not 
 enlivened by the contributions of grain or live stock 
 from our fields, fish from our lakes, lumber from 
 our forests, or ores of various kinds from our inex- 
 haustible mines. 
 
 According to the census returns of 1840, the 
 State of Michigan produced 2,157,108 bushels of 
 wheat, there were 190 flouring mills at work, em- 
 ploying 491 hands, and producing 202,880 barrels 
 of flour annually. In 1863 this State produced 
 
 I 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 309 
 
 7,275,032 bushels of wheat, there were 245 flouring 
 mills at work, employing 604 persons, and manu- 
 ihcturing 1,000,000 barrels of flour in a year. It 
 will be seen that the flouring mills have increased 
 greatly both in number and capacity since 1840, 
 Hud that very large quantities of flour are now ma- 
 nufactured in the interior of the State, a circum- 
 stance which partly accounts for the comparatively 
 small quantity of wheat that is now exported. The 
 number of flouring mills have doubtless increased 
 since 1853, and as steam power has been applied in 
 many instances their manufacturing capacity must 
 now be very great. Farmers are beginning to un- 
 derstand the importance of disposing of their pro- 
 duce near home, and having the surplus exported 
 in a manufactured state, instead of sending away the 
 raw material; the bran and "shorts" being very 
 valuable for mixing with the food of horses, cattle, 
 and swine. A flouring mill is a great benefit in a 
 rural district, it furnishes the farmer with a home 
 market, and when he receives the price of his pro- 
 duce, there are many domestic wants which must be 
 supplied, and on this account we always see stores 
 and mechanics' shops clustering around a mill, and 
 villages springing up in places where the solitude 
 of the forest was, until lately, unbroken by a sound. 
 
■^i«ll«F?..> 
 
 310 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 It is evident that the mill power of Michigan is in- 
 creasing rapidly, and that in future the greater part 
 of the surplus grain crop will be exported in a ma- 
 nufactured state. 
 
 In former years the prices of grain in the United 
 States were controlled by the European markets, 
 and consequently the grain trade of the Western 
 States was governed by the produce merchants in 
 the Atlantic ports, but lately the whole order of 
 things seems to have been reversed, as breadstufils 
 of every kind were dearer in the Western than in 
 the Eastern markets. There were several reasons 
 for this anomaly. On account of the ravages of 
 insects, and other causes which we have alluded to, 
 farmers were induced to place very little reliance 
 on the wheat crop, and many were driven into other 
 branches of husbandry, and in some places wheat 
 became scarce. Add to this the rapid increase of 
 the population which created a local demand for all 
 kinds of food, and caused immense quantities of 
 breadstuffs to be required in places where a few 
 years before there was no market for anything. 
 The rapid and extraordinary growth of Detroit and 
 all the Western cities, and the formation of new 
 settlements, created a home market for Western 
 produce, for the population of cities being consu- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 3»> 
 
 mers of the fruits of the land, instead of producers, 
 have always a wonderful effect on the markets of 
 their localities, and the pioneers in the forest or 
 prairie must for a time depend on the older settle- 
 ments for subsistence. 
 
 From a defective system of agriculture the soil 
 of the old States has been deteriorating for several 
 years. In Massachusetts the hay crop declined twelve 
 per cent, from 1840 to 1850, notwithstanding the ad- 
 dition of 90,000 acres of mowing lands and the grain 
 crop depreciated 6000 bushels, although no less than 
 6000 acres had been added to the tillage lands of that 
 State. 
 
 In 1840 the wheat crop of New York was about 
 twelve and a quarter millions of bushels, and only 
 nine millions in 1850, a decrease of 25 per cent., 
 while the Indian corn in the same State increased 
 during the same period from about ten to twenty 
 millions of bushels. The harvest of 1859, found 
 several parts of the country entirely destitute of 
 flour, and the farmers with a fixed and firm deter- 
 mination never again to allow themselves to run out 
 of the staff of life. 
 
 The number and capacity of the flouring mills have 
 increased considerably since 1853, so that it is pro- 
 bable that there are at present more than three hun- 
 
3^2 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 (1 red of them at work in the State, and the number 
 of hands employed by them cannot be much less 
 than twelve hundred. It is probable that they are 
 now capable of manufacturing 1,25,000 barrels of 
 flour annually, and this quantity would require 
 5,625,000 bushels of wheat. Add to this the large 
 quantity of seed required for sowing an increased 
 breadth of land, and the portion of the crop kept for 
 domestic use, and the result will be sufficient to ex- 
 plain the reason why so little wheat has been ex- 
 ported from Michigan this season. There are about 
 50,000 families in this State who depend on agri- 
 culture for subsistence ; all of these had suffered more 
 or less inconvenience form failure of the wheat crop, 
 and the high price of ilour for the last few years, and 
 it is no wonder that they should endeavor to secure 
 a full supply of wheat or flour of the produce of tlie 
 late harvest, and a very large portion of the crop 
 was disposed of in this way. 
 
 Since the Keciprocity Treaty came into operation, 
 thre has been considerable exportation of flour from 
 Detroit to Canada on account of the repeated failures 
 of the wheat crop in that country, and thus a new 
 market for Michigan produce has been opened near 
 home. 
 
 Some of these sources of demand are trifling when 
 
">■•* 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 313 
 
 standing alone, but the aggregate makes a very- 
 large amount. It is considered that about half 
 the produce of the wheat crop still remains in the 
 hands of the farmers and may be expected to reach 
 the maritet gradually. 
 
 Michigan wants woolen and cotton, and various 
 other factories to provide employment for the over- 
 crowded population of her cities and villages, and to 
 open a market for all her produce. The farmers of 
 Great Britain and Ireland could not pay the high 
 rents and taxes which are imposed on them, were it 
 not far their proximity to the great manufacturing 
 cities of England. The cotton factories of Manches- 
 ter, the woolen factories of Leeds and Huddersfield, 
 the hardware works of Birmingham and Sheffield, 
 and the potteries of Staffordshire, employ hundreds 
 of thousands of men, women, and children, who con- 
 sume the fruits of the soil, and create a steady de- 
 mand for the farmer's stock and grain. All these 
 manufactures were fostered b}- protective laws until 
 they had attained a magnitude and importance which 
 enabled them to protect themselves by the wealth of 
 their proprietors and the excellence of their pro- 
 ducts. Large cities always afford a market for 
 farm produce, and on this account exert a very bene- 
 ficial influence on agriculture. The population of 
 
 27 
 
-]^r 
 
 3'4 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 |-?; 1^ 
 
 ' I i ■ ■ *' 
 
 ■;'. •„■ i''>! ': 
 
 London is about two and a half millions, and they arc 
 possessed of so much wealth, and are so fastidious in 
 their requirements, that almost every part of the 
 world contributes to supply them with the necessaries 
 or luxuries of life. The rapid growth of the cities of 
 Michigan afford a home market for the fruits of the 
 the soil. A great deal of land in the old settlements 
 of this State has been exhausted by a too frequent 
 repetition of the wheat crop, and is now being em- 
 ployed as pasture for sheep and cattle. After re- 
 maining in grass for a few years, this land will be 
 in excellent condition for producing wheat, especi- 
 ally when fertilized with that plentiful supply of 
 barn-yard dung which the raising of stock always 
 produces. 
 
 There are some varieties of wheat which are much 
 better suited to the climate and soil of Michigan than 
 others, as they are in a great measure able to with- 
 stand the combined attacks of wheat insects and the 
 various diseases to which the plant is liable. These 
 are now fast supplanting the worn out grain, and as 
 every malady has its cure or preventive, it is proba- 
 ble that the introduction of the best kind of seeds, 
 the alternation between grass and tillage, and the 
 supply of rich manure which the raising of stock 
 creates will have a very great tendency to improve 
 the wheat crop oftliis State. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 3>5 
 
 It is a remarkable fact that although the wheat 
 crop has rather declined in the majority of States, 
 the corn crop has steadily increased in all of them. 
 Thus in 1840, the entire corn crop of the United 
 States amounted to 400,000,000 of bushels ; in 1850 
 it was nearly 600,000,000 of bushels. The crop of 
 1855 was between 7 and 800,000,000, and that of 
 
 1858 was fully 800,000,000 of bushels. Taking into 
 consideration the large breadth of land planted in 
 
 1859 and the damage by the frost, we might with 
 safety set down the crop as amounting to 800,000,000 
 bushels. 
 
 Last year our importations from Indiana were 
 large, but since the new crop came in, that State 
 has been shipping largely toward the Ohio River, 
 and we get comparatively little. The immense dis- 
 tilleries of Cincinnati consume a very large quantity 
 of corn annually, and Indiana is beginning to find a 
 good market in that quarter. The demand for Mi- 
 chigan corn is always active on account of its excel- 
 lent milling qualities, and on this account it gener- 
 ally sells from wagons as high, or a shade higher 
 than the outside figure for Western corn from store. 
 The corn crop of Illinois has been much injured by 
 the frosts of June and July, and on this account the 
 receipts in Chicago up to this date have been much 
 
3i6 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 J,' 
 
 lighter thnn usual. The European potato crop has 
 been greatly damagccl by rot, and it ia probable that 
 a large export of corn will take place from this 
 country in order to supply a deficiency occasioned 
 by this i'ailure. It is said that several New York 
 capitalists have gone west and purchased corn and 
 provisions, storing them up until next spring, anti- 
 cipating at that time a considerable advance in price. 
 The generality of farmers have sorted their corn 
 carefully this year and used up the unripe and infe- 
 rior part for feeding hogs and cattle : there is a 
 large quantity of very good corn in the country, 
 which will no doubt command a good price in the 
 spring. 
 
 Indian corn is one of the staple productions of 
 Michigan, and can be raised with success in any 
 suitable soil in the lower peninsula. According to 
 the statistics of 1850 this State produced nearly 
 6,000,000 of bushels that year. It is probable that 
 the census of the present year will show a vast 
 increase in the amount. In 1850 the value of this 
 crop in all the States amounted to nearly $300,000- 
 000, being about equal to t'je united values of the 
 wheat, hay, and cotton crops, and it has perhaps 
 doubled since that date. In fact the value of the 
 corn crop to Michigan and all the other States can- 
 
 mfjl 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 317 
 
 
 not be estimated, as it is much used for the food of 
 man and all the domestic animals, and to it the 
 American farmer is indebted for much of his pros- 
 perity, for without it he would not be able to bring 
 his cattle and hogs into the market at the right time 
 and in proper condition. 
 
 Heretofore the amount of pork packed has al- 
 ways *)een insufficient to meet the demand, and the 
 deficiency has been supplied by importations -from 
 other cities, chiefly from Cincinnati. This season 
 not only has there been a considerable increase in 
 the number packed, but the market opens a great 
 deal duller than last year, when the Canada trade 
 and the building of the Detroit and Port Huron 
 link of the Grand Trunk Railway induced a fair 
 demand. 
 
 Cincinnati is the greatest provision maket on the 
 continent or in the world. At that place specula- 
 tion has been quite rife for the past two or three 
 years, operators obtaining a controlling interest in 
 the stock for the purpose of putting up prices. Last 
 year the plan did not work well, owing to various 
 causes, one of which was the small number of works 
 in progress, such as railroads, etc., the supply of the 
 laborers upon such works, being the life of the provi- 
 sion trade. Heavy losses were sustained, but it is said 
 27* 
 
3'8 
 
 Old Ma('kinaw. 
 
 mi 
 
 
 ^ *:■''■ 
 ■ .r V-i.''.' 
 
 ';<u<»'.'«' 
 
 tluit th(^ Huftbrers were u diftercnt cluss from that re- 
 gularly engaged in the trade. This season the specu- 
 lative fever has again prevailed. The issue has yet 
 to be revealed. 
 
 Last year nearly 1,000 head of cattle were slaugh- 
 tered here, all of which were forwarded to Lake Su- 
 perior as soon as packed. The price of mess beef 
 has ranged from $8.50 to $12.00. About the first of 
 July prices reached their highest point. During the 
 fall the range has been from $8.50 to $10.00. 
 
 When the marshy lands, skirting our water- 
 courses in St. Clair, Macomb, Wayne, and Monroe 
 counties, shall have been drained, (which will, no 
 doubt, be consummated at no distant day,) a large 
 tract will be rendered available for grazing, which 
 will prove equal for that purpose to any in the 
 Union. Butter and cheese will then become a lead- 
 ing article in our commerce. 
 
 Potatoes constitute another of our staple products, 
 and, in seasons of scarcity elsewhere, large purchases 
 are made for shipment, but being generally based 
 on present demand, they can hardly be called specu- 
 lative. The crop of 1857 was rather meagre, and 
 last spring and summer prices ruled high, going up 
 to $1.20 for a short time in June. Last year we 
 had an abundant crop, since which, under a limited 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 V9 
 
 export demand, prices have ruled low. The receipts 
 at this point, from all sources, did not vary greatly 
 from 175,000 bushels, of which 80,500 bushels were 
 exported, chiefly to Ohio and the upper country. 
 
 It is claimed, that southern Michigan produces 
 more fine fruit than any other locality of the same 
 extent in the United States, if not on the globe. 
 At the same time almost every quarter of the State 
 is constantly improving both in quality and quan- 
 tity. This fact is creditable to the sagacity of our 
 agriculturists, for probably in nothing else can an 
 equal amount of profit be realized with the same 
 outlay. 
 
 Our market is not an important one for live stock, 
 much of the greater share of the receipts by rail 
 being through freight. Our wholesale market is 
 mainly governed by that at the East, buyers for ship- 
 ment are always on the look-out, and whenever any- 
 thing can be purchased that affords even a moderate 
 margin, it is promptly taken. Extra cattle are al- 
 ways sought for by our butchers, and command full 
 rates. A spirit of emulation on the subject of fine 
 stock is pervading the minds of our farmers, and, as 
 a consequence, its quality is rapidly improving. At 
 the last State Fair, the display of cattle was such as 
 to elicit the admiration of good judges from abroad. 
 
'•flf- 
 
 ■"h 
 
 
 1 * 
 
 
 I. 
 
 JT- 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 j 
 
 ■i it 
 
 
 
 320 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 There aro so many interests claiming the attention 
 of our agriculturists, that the idea of becoming 
 famous as to qnunlily, is perhaps precluded ; if so, 
 they may well rest content in the attainment of high 
 rank in point of quality. 
 
 The raising of fine sheep is constantly attracting 
 more and more attention, and from the progress 
 already made by our State, she bids fair at no dis- 
 tant day to take a position in advance of all her 
 sister States, 
 
 The year 1869 opened with rather flattering pros- 
 pects for wool-growers. The last year's stock was 
 nearly exhausted befOiC che new clip came into the 
 market. Prices of woolen fabrics were advancing, 
 and bid fair to rule high. On the eve of the wool 
 season prices declined in the Eastern markets, al- 
 though there was no particular reason for this unfa- 
 vorable turn. It was considered at the time, that 
 the fall in prices was occasioned by a regular combi- 
 nation among buyers to break down the market. 
 The news of the passage of the Ticino by the Aus- 
 trians, and the actual commencement of hostilities 
 in Italy, arrived in this country before the wool was 
 brought into the market, and this circumstance was 
 seized on as a pretext for lowering the price of the 
 new clip. Buvers were very industrious in circulat- 
 
Old Mackitiaw. 
 
 3i» 
 
 ing roportH that a genenil Kuropfan war was com- 
 mencing, and, an it was not known how aftuii'H would 
 terminate, it would bo unHaf'e for American buyers 
 to make investments in the wool trade, except at 
 prices tluit wt)uld leave a large margin I'or proHt. 
 It was fortunate that farmers did not take the same 
 view of transatlanti(; complications, for they re- 
 fused to sell except at remunerating })rices, a deci- 
 sion which caused some of the Eastern buyers to 
 retire from tli(; market in disgust. Almost the en- 
 tiro press of Michigan support(!d the views of the 
 farmers on this occasion, juid declared that they 
 could see no reason why the war in Italy should 
 affect the prices of wool in America, especially as all 
 the domestic clip, and a very large quantity of 
 foreign wool would be manufactured in this country. 
 Michigan produces excellent wool. There are nu- 
 merous flocks of French, Spanish, and Saxon Meri- 
 nos in this State, which have been selected or bred 
 with the greatest care, and the wool produced by 
 them cannot be surpassed in any of the Western 
 States. There are also flocks of coarse-wooled sheep 
 which produce heavy fleeces, and when fattened for 
 the butcher make excellent mutton. In 1840 tho 
 wool clip of this State was about 150,000 lbs., in 
 1850 something over 2,000,000 lbs., and 1859 it 
 

 Ay,' 
 
 , 1. 
 
 r'i- 
 
 %r 
 
 
 ' I-.' ;•> 
 
 '■••or,v 
 
 
 -i: 
 
 **i*? 
 
 I 
 
 322 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 amounted to nearly 4,000,000 lbs. It will be seen 
 by these figures that it has nearly doubled during 
 the last nine years. There are but few woolen ma- 
 nufactories in Michigan, and the most of the wool 
 clip of this State is purchased by Eastern manufac- 
 turers. A considerable portion of it goes to Boston 
 and other parts of Massachusetts. We want a large 
 woolen factory in Detroit, where everything that is 
 necessary for its operation can be easily procured. 
 We want more manufactories of every kind in Mi- 
 chigan. 
 
 Our city is largely interested in the shipping busi- 
 ness, and its trade gives employment to a larger 
 number of side- wheel steamboat lines than any other 
 three cities on the entire chain of lakes. During the 
 last season, the following regular lines of steamers 
 were in successful operation : 
 
 Detroit and Cleveland, 
 Detroit and Toledo. 
 Detroit and Sandusky. 
 Detroit and Saginaw. 
 Detroit and New Baltimore. 
 Detroit and Maiden. 
 
 Detroit, G. Bay and Buffalo, 
 Detroit, and Lake Superior. 
 Detroit and Port Huron. 
 Detroit and Chatham. 
 Detroit and Wallaceburg. 
 Detroit and Gibraltar. 
 
 Two of the above routes sustain opposition lines, 
 and to the list might be added the line of lake stea- 
 mers to Buffalo, and the line to Goderich, which 
 though not run last year, will probably be in sue- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 323 
 
 cessful operation the coming season, making in all 
 sixteen lines. It is significant that the late financial 
 revulsion, which fell with such crushing weight upon 
 the shipping interest all over the country did not 
 occasion the withdrawal of any of our steamboat lines, 
 save one. As a still more striking fact, we may state 
 that until last season none of the cities located in the 
 vast region between the foot of Lake Michigan and 
 the foot of Lake Erie, has for many years past sup- 
 ported a single line of steamers that did not make 
 Detroit a terminus. Last year a line was put in suc- 
 cessful operation between Buffalo and Cleveland, 
 and another between the latter place and Toledo, 
 but it ought to be added that both of these were es- 
 tablished by Detroit enterprise. 
 
 In addition to the line above enumerated, we have 
 daily lines of propellers to Ogdensburg, Buffalo, 
 Dunkirk and to the Upper Lakes, which do an im- 
 mense freighting business. 
 
 We are indebted to Captain J. H. Hall, the public- 
 spirited proprietor of the Detroit shipping-office for 
 following statement of the number of vessels that 
 passed Detroit in 1859 : 
 
324 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Number of Vessels passing Detroit, 1859. 
 
 
 
 No. Times. 
 
 
 No 
 
 Times. 
 
 Steamers passed 
 
 up. 
 
 194 
 
 Steamers passed down. 
 
 195 
 
 Propellers, 
 
 (< 
 
 492 
 
 Propellers, 
 
 a 
 
 503 
 
 Barks, 
 
 (( 
 
 273 
 
 Barks, 
 
 « 
 
 284 
 
 Brigs 
 
 K 
 
 295 
 
 Brigs, 
 
 « 
 
 314 
 
 Schooners, 
 
 (( 
 
 1,811 
 
 Schooners, 
 
 <( 
 
 1,825 
 
 Total number 
 
 up, 
 
 3,065 
 
 Total number down, 
 
 3,121 
 
 Greatest number passed up in one day, eighty- 
 five ; greatest number down, seventy-three. 
 
 The number of entries and clearances reported at 
 the Custom House during the year is as follows : 
 
 Arrived. Cl'd. 
 
 Jan 48 70 
 
 Feb 49 71 
 
 March 161 288 
 
 April 334 375 
 
 May 438 586 
 
 June 458 568 
 
 July. 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept 
 
 Oct., 
 
 Nov. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 Arrived. 
 
 ...403 
 
 ...461 
 
 ...316 
 
 ..288 
 
 ..294 
 
 .. 45 
 
 Cl'd. 
 
 597 
 519 
 481 
 319 
 316 
 71 
 
 During the past year the amount of total losses 
 has been light, not greater, probably, than the num- 
 ber of vessels built, so that although the classifica- 
 tion is slightly changed, there is no material change 
 so far as concerns the aggregate tonnage. Detroit 
 owns, therefore, nearly one-sixth of the entire tonnage of 
 the lakes. 
 
 As a matter of some interest we present a com- 
 parative statement showing the tonnage, steam, and 
 
Old Mackinaw. 325 
 
 total, of a number of the more important maritime 
 places in the country, taken from the report of the 
 Register of the Treasury on Commerce and Naviga- 
 tion : 
 
 Steam tonnage. Total tonnage. 
 
 New York 118,638 1,432,705 
 
 New Orleans 70,072 210,411 
 
 Philadelphia 22,892 219,851 
 
 Baltimore 18,821 194,488 
 
 Pittsburg 42,474 " 56,824 
 
 Cincinnati 23,136 26,541 
 
 Chicago 8,151 67,001 
 
 St. Louis 55,515 61,266 
 
 Bostoa 9,452 448,896 
 
 Buffalo ., : 42,640 73,478 
 
 Detroit. 35,266 62,485 
 
 Charleston, S. C 8,230 60,196 
 
 The following exhibits the number and tonnage 
 of vessels owned in this district — nearly all of them 
 in this city — on the 31st of December, 1859 : 
 
 Number Tons. 9fiths 
 
 Steamers 73 29,175 02 
 
 Propellers 32 6,090 81 
 
 Barks 4 1,337 08 
 
 Brigs 7 1,877 75 
 
 Schooners 131 19,671 56 
 
 Scows and all others 136 4,322 68 
 
 Total 383 62,485 05 
 
 In 1857 301 52,991 60 
 
 Increase in two years 82 9,493 50 
 
 28 
 
'** t 
 
 m' 
 
 326 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 The following was the aggregate tonnage of the 
 lakes in December 1858 : 
 
 AMERtCAN. 
 
 69 Side-wheel steamers register tons 44,562 
 
 lip Propellers 
 
 70 Tugs (propellers).. . . 
 
 46 Barks 
 
 79 Brigs 
 
 711 Schooners 
 
 109 Scows 
 
 do 45,562 
 
 do 6,880 
 
 do 18,788 
 
 do 22,558 
 
 do 166,725 
 
 do 11,848 
 
 1194 Total 316,923 
 
 Canadian. 
 67 Side-wheel steamers, register tons 25,966 
 
 16 Propellers 
 
 4 Tugs (propellers).. . . 
 
 19 Barks 
 
 16 Brigs 
 
 186 Schooners 
 
 XO i^C/OiVs^« ••«• •••• •••• • 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 dor. 
 
 4,631 
 
 388 
 5,697 
 2,988 
 
 do 19,311 
 
 do 609 
 
 .321 
 
 Total 59,580 
 
 The Michigan Central was the first railroad built 
 in the State, and since its completion has been known 
 as one of the best managed in the West. Its bene- 
 ficial effects to the region of country through which 
 it passes, is incalculable. On its linC; have sprung 
 up a number of beautiful towns and villages as if by 
 magic, while many of those that had an existence 
 prior to its construction have grown into flourishing 
 cities. Ypsilanti, Ann Arbor, Jackson, Marshall, 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 327 
 
 Battle Creek, Albion, Kalamazoo, Niles, and others 
 that might properly be included, all located upon this 
 road, are beautiful places, noted for their thrift and 
 enterprise as well as for their rapid advances in all that 
 pertains to well-regulated cities. Their commerce 
 is rapidly increasing and the country along the en- 
 tire route will vie with that traversed by the great 
 throughfares of any of the older States along the sea- 
 board. 
 
 The Central was commenced and partially built 
 by the State, but in 1844, passed into the possession 
 of the company now owning it, who completed it to 
 Chicago. A telegraph line has been in use for some 
 years past along the entire line of the road, with an 
 office at each station, by which means the exact posi- 
 tion of each train may be at all times known at each 
 and every point. To this admirable system may be 
 attributed in a very great degree the extraordinary 
 exemption of the road from serious accidents, while 
 its advantages are very great in every point of view 
 respecting the general management. The eastern 
 terminus of the road being at Detroit, it has the full 
 advantages of the numerous connections at this point, 
 the Great Western and Grand Trunk Railways, the 
 important steamboat route from Cleveland, the lines 
 of Detroit and Buffalo propellers with their immense 
 
328 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 f 1 
 
 »v i 
 
 freight traffic, as well as the numerous other steam- 
 boat routes of which our city is the nucleus. At 
 Chicago it has the advantages of connection with 
 all the roads radiating from that flourishing city. 
 Freight is now taken from Chicago to Portland with- 
 out breaking bulk but once. An important " feeder" 
 is the Joliet Cut-off, by means of which it has a 
 direct connection with St. Louis, via the Chicago, 
 Alton, and St. Louis Railroad. An important ar- 
 rangement was consummated last summer with the 
 latter road, for the direct transmission of freight be- 
 tween this city and St. Louis. Fifty cars have been 
 diverted to this route, under the name of the " De- 
 troit and St. Louis Through Freight Line." The 
 time between the two cities is thirty-eight hours. 
 The advantages of this line to shippers are very con- 
 siderable, and the arrangement is adding, and will 
 continue to add, materially to the commerce of our 
 city. 
 
 A commendable progressive spirit has latterly 
 been evinced by the managers generally, of our rail- 
 roads, in the transmission of freight, especially live 
 stock and grain. The improven^ '''^ is a most grate- 
 ful one to shippers, who have ordiu) ' v quite enough 
 anxiety and vexation to suffer in ' iie fluctuations of 
 the market and subjection to mlooked for and 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 329 
 
 onerous charges, without having superadded unrea- 
 sonable exposure and deterioration of their property 
 while en route to market. In this movement the 
 management of the Central has fully sympathized. 
 Their stock and grain cars have received high com- 
 mendations from those for whose benefit they were 
 intended. The entire equipment of the . .ad is such 
 as to comport with them ; the safety, comfort and 
 convenience of the public, being constantly -kept in 
 view, regardless of the cost incurred. 
 
 The three staunch and magnificent steamers be- 
 longing to the company, the Plymouth Rock, West- 
 ern World and Mississippi, owing to the hard times 
 have been laid up at their dock since the fall of 
 1857, to the great regret of the public generally, as 
 well as to the detriment of the business interest of 
 our city. With the return of a more prosperous era 
 they will doubtless be again placed in commission. 
 The line formed by these boats is the most pleasant 
 and expeditious medium of communication between 
 the East and the West and Southwest, and cannot 
 fail to be well patronized, especially now that the 
 Dayton and Michigan Railroad is completed, which 
 will bring a large amount of both freight and pas- 
 senger traffic by way of Detroit that formerly souglit 
 other routes. 
 28* 
 
330 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1^, 
 
 The rolling stock now on ♦he road consists of 
 ninty-eight engines, seventy first class passenger cars, 
 twelve second class cars ; twenty-nine baggage curs, 
 and two thousand seven hundred and sevonty-eight 
 freight cars, making a total of two thousand eight 
 hundred and eighty-nine cars and all of which were 
 built in the company's own shops. 
 
 This road is one hundred and eighty -eighi; miles 
 long, and has been in operation throughout its whole 
 extent since November, 1858. It is deserving of the 
 distinctive appellation of the Back Bone Road of 
 Michigan, having been of incalculable value in deve- 
 loping the resources of the region through which it is 
 located, decidely one of the richest and most import- 
 ant in the West. The principal towns and cities 
 upon its line are Pontiac, Fentonville, St. Johns, 
 Ionia, Grand Eapids and Grand Haven. The growth 
 of these places has received a great impetus since its 
 completion, while numerous villages have also sprung 
 into being as if by magic at various points along the 
 line. These changes are plainly visible in the im- 
 proved trade of our city, and the increase from the 
 same cause, must continue to be strongly marked. 
 Last season over one-fourth of the wheat and wool re- 
 ceived here was by this new route, and a number of 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 33> 
 
 vessels loaded at the company *s noble and spacious 
 wharf for European ports direct. 
 
 Within the year past, the company have com- 
 pleted one of the finest railway wharves in the world. 
 It is 1,600 feet long by 90 broad, the west end of 
 which is occupied by the freight house, the dimen- 
 sions of which are 450 by 132 feet. 
 
 One of the most important events to Detroit 
 and the entire West, that has transpired for many 
 years, is the completion of this great thoroughfare. 
 ^ e link from Port Huron to this city was opened 
 to traffic on the 21st of November, since which date 
 the businesss crowding upon it has fully equaled 
 its capacity. It is the Minerva of railways, having 
 reached at a single bound a condition of prosperity 
 outrivaling many of the oldest established roads on 
 the continent. 
 
 It possesses important advantages over any other 
 road both for freight and pussenger traffic. Being of 
 uniform guage, no change of cars will be necessary 
 from Sarnia to Portland ; and being also under the 
 management of one corporation, it affords better 
 facilities for the protection of passengers and the 
 preservation of their baggage than where they are 
 required to pass over lines under the control of dif- 
 ferent and perhaps conflicting corporations. Having 
 
 :ssiSaKW5y,-i,vST.-; 
 
332 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 IV 
 
 )- K; 
 
 u 
 
 only one set of officers quartered upon its ex- 
 chequer, it can afford to do business at lower pro- 
 portionate rates, than a number of shorter lines, each 
 having a different set to salary, while the delay and 
 vexation which not unfrequently arise from short 
 routes, being compelled to wait upon ea(;h other's 
 movements, will all be avoided, which is certainly 
 no small consideration both to passengers and ship- 
 pers. 
 
 The harbor of Portland is one of the finest and 
 most eligible in the world, and our immediate con- 
 nection with a point of such importance is of itself 
 a matter deserving particular mention. Portland 
 district, as appears by the official statement of the 
 tonnage of the United States, made to June, 1857, 
 then owned 145,242 tons of shipping, being the 
 ninth port in the Union in point of tonnage ; she is 
 very largely interested in the West India trade, her 
 annual imports of molasses exceeding those of any 
 port in the United States. She offers, therefore, to 
 the Western States, peculiar facilities for procur- 
 ing at a cheap rate the products of the West Indies. 
 The harbor is without any bar, and so easy of ac- 
 cess that no pilots are required, and strangers, with 
 the sailing directions given in the American Coast 
 Pilot; have brought their ships into it with safety. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 333 
 
 rp 
 
 There are no port charges, hnrbor dues, or light- 
 house fees, excepting the oflicinl custom house fees. 
 
 The Grand Trunk Railway is likely to bec^oine the 
 jivenue through which an irnniense tide of ininiigra- 
 tion will pour into Michigan. It will be a favorite 
 route for emigrants, who will thus avoid the rascally 
 impositions of the swindlers and Peter Vunks of 
 New York, who have given that city an unenviable 
 notoriety throughout the world. It is predictijd that 
 more immigrants will hereafter come by the new 
 route than by all others put together. There is 
 no valid reason why this prediction should not 
 prove strictly true. This is therefore a matter likely 
 to be of vast importance to our State, with a large 
 share of her territory as yet an unbroken wild, offer- 
 ing tempting inducements to the hardy settler. 
 
 The completion of this stupendous bond of con- 
 nection between the Eastern and Western States, 
 Canada and Europe, will render markets available 
 which were before difficult of access, and enable far- 
 distant countries to exchange their products at all 
 seasons. The Grand Trunk may be called the first 
 section of the Pacific Railroad, as it already 
 communicates with the Mississippi through Michi- 
 gan, Illinois and Wisconsin Railroads, and we ex- 
 pect to see the line completed from the Mississippi 
 
334 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 V ^'■ 
 
 Si 
 
 
 m :-■ 
 
 to California. It is not easy to form an estimate of 
 the amount of traffic and intercourse that the 1,150 
 miles of Grand Trunk Railway will bring to Michi- 
 gan and the neighboring States. A junction lias 
 been already formed with tliat model of western 
 linos the Michigan Central by which freight and 
 passengers reach Chicago and the numerous lines 
 whioh diverge from that great commercial city. It 
 is probable that another junction will be made with 
 the Detroit and Milwaukee Railway by means of a 
 branch from Port Huron to Owasso. In this case 
 there will be a direct line across Michigan connect- 
 ing with the Milwaukee railroads by the ferry across 
 the lake, and penetrating into Iowa, Minnesota, Ne- 
 braska, and Oregon by lines which have not yet 
 been traced on the railway maps of the United 
 States. 
 
 The ostensible western terminus of this road is 
 at Windsor, opposite our city, but it is practicalh"- 
 as much a Detroit road as any that can be named. 
 The connections with the other routes centering here 
 is made by a number of ferry boats of the most 
 staunch and powerful description. The receipts by 
 this route of general merchandise consigned to the 
 cities and points westward of us is immense, and it 
 enjoys a large and growing local traffic 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 335 
 
 The main line of the Southern Michigan and 
 Northern Indiana Kailroad, which taps a rich and 
 important portion of Michigan, is 461 mile.H in 
 length. The business on this line has recently shown 
 a decided improvement. 
 
 The D. and T. Road, which is 65 miles in length, 
 was opened to traffic in January 1867. It was built 
 by the ''Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Rf ilroad Com- 
 pany," who leased it to the Michigan Soul hem Ro.id. 
 It is now an important link in the great lailv/ay 
 system extending from the East to the Great South- 
 west, of which system, Detroit, from its favorable 
 position, has become the centre and soul. Since he 
 opening of the Grand Trunk, in November, a large 
 amount of freight has passed through, billed lor 
 Liverpool direct, a species of freight which must 
 steadily increase. 
 
 L. P. Knight is agent at Detroit. The office is in 
 the depot building of the Detroit and Milwaukee 
 Railway. 
 
 The Dayton and Michigan Railroad was completed 
 last fall, placing us within a few 'Jiours' ride of the 
 Queen City of the West. This is justly regarded 
 as a most important route to our city, and will de- 
 velop new features to some of our leading business 
 interests. The consumer of our State will have the 
 
W'^ 
 
 Vf^ 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 m 
 
 benefit of lower prices for the products of Kentucky, 
 Tennessee, Louisiana, and the West Indies. The 
 want of direct communication between Detroit and 
 New Orleans has long been felt. Sugars and mo- 
 lasses can now be laid down here for fifty cents per 
 100 lbs., including all charges from New Orleans, 
 via the Mississippi and Ohio Eivers, and D. and M. 
 Eailway, giving us, in a word, the benefits of as 
 low freights in winter as in summer. With the cost 
 of transportation thus reduced to a merely nominal 
 standard, prices of Southern products will be upon 
 an average no higher here than in Louisville. It is 
 more than probable, nay, quite certain, that the ad- 
 vantages which must ultimately accrue to the State 
 from our connection with Cincinnati per se, if not so 
 general, will be even more marked and important 
 than those to which we have above referred. The 
 prices of provisions will be equalized, giving our 
 lumbermen and miners the benefit of reduced rates 
 throughout most of the year, and when speculation 
 is rampant, and the price of pork, the great staple 
 of our neighbors, reaches an extreme figure — as has 
 been the case for two successive seasons, and will be 
 the case again — our farmers will reap the benefit of 
 the movement. The growth of Cincinnati is alto- 
 gether without parallel in the world, taking into ac- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 337 
 
 count the character of that growth — its quality, so to 
 speak. All its great interests, particularly its manu- 
 factures, have kept pace with its numerical increase. 
 It is indeed difficult to determine whether manufac- 
 tures or commerce is most intimately identified with 
 its prosperity. The connection with her will give 
 us new and desirable customers for some of our sur- 
 plus products, particularly our choice lumber. 
 
 The entire line of the Flint and Pere Mtirquette 
 Kailroad, as located, is 172 J miles ; track laid and 
 completed, 7 J miles; additional length graded 24J 
 miles, the ties for which have all been delivered. 
 
 It is thought that hereafter twenty miles per year 
 will be completed without difficulty until the whole 
 is completed. This road will be important in de- 
 veloping the resources of a very rich tract of coun- 
 try. 
 
 On the line of Amboy, Lansing, and Grand Tra- 
 verse Eailroad, the entire distance from Owasso to 
 Lansing, twenty-six miles, is ready for the iron, ex- 
 cept three miles. On the division from Lansing to 
 to Albion, thirty-six miles, the work of grading and 
 furnishing ties is progressing, and some one hundred 
 men at work. Between Owasso and Saginaw, thirty- 
 three miles, arrangements are nearly completed to 
 start the work. The work of grading and prepar- 
 29 
 
 wmmmm. 
 
i'»V 
 
 
 
 
 Rf 
 
 
 m 
 
 338 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 
 ing for the iron is done by local subscriptions, of 
 which $3,000 per mile has been subscribed and is 
 being paid. 
 
 The existence of copper on the shores of Lake 
 Superior appears to have been known to the earliest 
 travelers, but it has been only a few years since it 
 has entered largely into Western commerce. But 
 the country had long been a favorite resort for fur 
 traders, and as long ago as 1809, and perhaps still 
 further back, the Northwest Company (British) 
 owned vessels on Lake Superior. This organization 
 was at that period the great trading company of the 
 region in question, the operations of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company being confined chiefly to the region 
 further north. At the period of which we speak, 
 the bulk of the trading was done by means of birch 
 canoes, some of them large enough to carry two or 
 three tons. With these, the traders passed up to 
 the Indian settlements in the fall, with goods, pi-ovi- 
 sions, and trinkets, usually returning to the trading 
 posts during the month of June with the furs whicli 
 they had procured in exchange. Mackinac and the 
 Saut were trading pi)sts at an early day. At a 
 somewhat later period, the Northwest Company had 
 an agency on an island in Lake Huron, not far from 
 the mouth of Saut river. The formation of the 
 
339 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Aluericau Fur Company was of more recent date, 
 that company daiing its origin during the war of 
 1812, or soon after. 
 
 Prior to the building of the canal, a number of 
 steamers had been taken over the portage to Lake 
 Superior, but so far as our knowledge extends, 
 only one or two craft larger tliaii a canoe were over 
 iukeu over the rapids, one of which was the schooner 
 Mink. She was built of red cedar, on Lake Su- 
 perioi", about the year 1816, and was of some forty 
 tons burden. She became the pi'operty of Mack & 
 Conant, who had her brought down the rapids. In 
 making the descent she suftercd some injury by 
 striking against a rock, but, notwithstanding this 
 mishap, she lived long enough to ride out many a 
 stormy sea, running for several years in the trade 
 between Buffalo and the City of the Straits. Shu- 
 bael Conant, Esq., at this day an honored citizen of 
 Detroit, was one of the firm that purchased the 
 Mink. 
 
 In the spring of 1845, the fleet on Lake Superior 
 consisted of the schooner White Fish, belonging to 
 the Hudson's Bay Company, the Siscowit, belonging 
 to the American Fur Company, and the Algonquin, 
 owned by a Mr. Mendenhall. The same year the 
 schooners Napoleon, Swallow, Uncle Tom, Mer- 
 
i 
 
 H\ 
 
 
 
 *^ 
 
 340 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 chant, Chippewa, Ocean, and Fur Trader, were all 
 added. In 1845, the propeller Independence, the first 
 steamer that ever floated on Lake Superior, was taken 
 across the portage, and the next year the Julia Palmer 
 followed her, she being the first side-wheel steamer. 
 In the winter of 1848-9, the schooner Napoleon was 
 converted into a propeller. In 1850, the propeller 
 Manhattan was hauled over by the Messrs. Turner, 
 and the Monticello in 1851, by Col. McKnight. The 
 latter was lost the same fall, and Col. McK. supplied 
 her place the next winter with the Baltimore. In 1853 
 or 1854, E. B. Ward took over the Sam Ward, and 
 Col. McKnight took the propeller Peninsula over 
 in the winter of 1852 or 1853. 
 
 In the spring of 1855, the Saut Canal was com- 
 pleted, since which date the trade with that important 
 region has rapidly grown into commanding impor- 
 tance. It will be seen by the table below that the 
 importations of machinery, provisions, supplies, and 
 merchandise, for the past year amounted to $5,298,- 
 640, while the exports of copper, iron, fur and fish 
 amount to $3,071,069. 
 
 The following are the names of the steam craft 
 now regularly employed in this trade : 
 
 S. B. Illinois. Prop. Mineral Eock. 
 
 S. B. Lady Elgin. Prop. Montgomery. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 341 
 
 Prop. Northern Light. 
 Prop. Iron City. 
 
 S. B. North Star. 
 Prop. Marquette 
 
 A number of other steam-craft made occasional 
 trips last year, and next season it is expected that 
 another line will be placed on the route permanently. 
 The Detroit shipping-office has published the names 
 of ninety-six sail vessels that have been engaged in 
 the iron trade the past year. 
 
 Rapid as this trade has increased, it is destined, no 
 doubt, to yet undergo a still greater transformation. 
 The latent resources of the Upper Peninsula are of u 
 character and magnitude that defy all estimates of 
 their future greatness. With regard to the import- 
 ance of the trade to our city, and the steps to be 
 taken to retain it, ample comments have already ap- 
 peared in the Tribune, both editorially and in the form 
 of communications, to which we can add nothing. 
 
 The aggregate amount of tolls collected in May, 
 July, August and September, was $10,374.18, a large 
 increase over the corresponding months last year. 
 Including the probable amount for the months not 
 reported, and we have at the lowest not less proba- 
 bly than $16,000, as the tolls for 1859. 
 
 Number of passengers : May, 2,493 ; June, 1,764; 
 July, 2,116; August, 2,617; September, 1,538; Oc- 
 tober, 1,015. 
 29* 
 
 RipiPi 
 
 4.- 
 
ffv 
 
 B 
 
 m 
 
 '.'"' -;■ i-^P 
 
 III 
 
 w 
 
 fr.: 
 
 
 34^ 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 It is 7101V almost universally admitted that the 
 State of Michigan possesses in her soil and timber 
 the material source of immense wealth. While in 
 years past it has been difficult to obtain satisfactory 
 information concerning the real condition and na- 
 tural resources of a large portion of the surface of the 
 Lower Peninsula, the re-survey of portions of the 
 government land, the exploration of the country by 
 parties in search of pine, the developments made by 
 the exploring and surveying parties along the lines 
 of the Land Grant Railroads, and the more recent 
 examinations by the different commissions for lay- 
 ing out the several State roads under the Acts passed 
 by the last Legislature, have removed every doubt 
 in reference to the subject. The universal testimony 
 from all the sources above mentioned, seems to be that 
 in all the natural elements of wealth the whole of 
 the northern part of the Peninsula abounds. 
 
 The pine lands of the State, wh-'ih are a reliable 
 source of present and future wealth, are so located 
 and distributed as to bring almost every portion of 
 the State, sooner or later in connection with the 
 commerce of the lakes. The pine timber of Michi- 
 gan is generally interspersed with other varieties of 
 timber, such as beech, maple, white-ash, oak, cherry, 
 etc., and in most cases the soil is suited to agricul 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 343 
 
 tural purposeri. This is particularly the case on the 
 western slope of the Peninsula, on the waters of 
 Lake Michigan and along the central portion of the 
 State. On the east and near Lake Huron, the pine 
 districts are more extensively covered with pine 
 timber, and generally not so desirable for farming 
 purposes. There are good farming lands, however, 
 all along the coast of Lake Huron and extending 
 back into the interior. 
 
 A large proportion of the pine lands of the State 
 are in the hands of the Canal Company, and indivi- 
 duals who are holding them as an investment, and it 
 is no detriment to this great interest, that the whole 
 State has been thus explored and the choicest of the 
 lands secured. The developments which have thus 
 been made of the quality and extent of the pine dis- 
 tricts, have given stability and confidence to the 
 lumbering interest. And these lands are not held 
 at exorbitant prices, but are sold upon fair and rea- 
 sonable terms, such as practical business men and 
 lumber men will not usually object to. 
 
 It is a remarkable fact that almost every stream 
 of water in the State, north of Grand Eiver, pene- 
 trates a district of pine lands, and the mouths of 
 nearly all these streams are already occupied witl- 
 lumbering establishments of greater or less magni 
 
m ' 
 
 344 
 
 Old Mackinaw 
 
 it " 
 
 In 
 
 1 
 
 tude. Those lumber colonies are the pioneers, and 
 generally attract around them others who engage iu 
 agriculture, and thus almost impreceptibly the agri- 
 cultural interests of the State are spreading and deve 
 loping in every direction. The want of suitable 
 means of access alone prevents the rapid settlement 
 of large and fertile districts of our State, which are not 
 unknown to the more enterprising and persevering 
 pioneers, who have led the way through the wilder- 
 ness, and are now engaged almost single-handed in 
 their ^-^bors, not shrinking from the privations and 
 Bufierings which are sure to surround these first settle- 
 ments in our new districts. 
 
 The Grand Traverse region, with its excellent soil, 
 comparatively mild climate, and abundance of tim- 
 ber of every description, is attracting much attention, 
 and extensive settlements have already commenced 
 in many localities in that region. The coast of Lake 
 Michigan, from Grand River north, foi- upward of 
 one hundred miles to Manistee River, presents gene- 
 rally a barren, sandy appearance, the sand hills of 
 that coast almost invariably shutting out from the 
 view the surrounding country. 
 
 North of the Manistee, however, this characteristic 
 of the coast changes, and the hard timber comes out 
 to the lake and presents a fine region of country ex- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 VK 
 
 tending from Ijnko Michigan to Grand 'rraverso Buy 
 and beyond, embratjing the head waters of the Man- 
 istee River. Tliirt hirge tract of agricultural land is 
 one of the richest j)ortions of the State, and having 
 throughout its whole extent extensive groves of 
 excellent pine timber interspersed, it is one of the 
 most desirable portions of the Peninsula. Grand 
 Traverse Bay, the Manistee and the River Aux 
 Bees Scies are the outlets for the pine timber, and 
 afford ample means of communication between the 
 interior and the lake for such purposes. The pro- 
 posed State roads will, if built, do much toward 
 the settlement of this region. 
 
 A natural harbor, which is being improved by 
 private enterprise, is found at the mouth of the River 
 Aux Bees Scies, and a nev/ settlement and town has 
 been started at this point. This is a natural outlet 
 for a consideration portion of the region just de- 
 scribed. 
 
 The lands here, as in other localities in the new 
 portions of the State, are such as must induce a rapid 
 settlement whenever the means of communication 
 shall be opened. 
 
 The valley of the Muskegon embraces every variety 
 of soil and timber, and is one of the most attractive 
 portions of the Peninsula. The pine lands upon this 
 
 ■^^^^IS^rrr 
 
346 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ^ 
 ^A'. 
 
 M 
 
 h ' 
 
 a,-): 
 
 river are sciittiTod all Jiloii;^ tlio vulloy in gnaipH or 
 tracts containing several tliouaand acres (;acli, inter- 
 spersed with hard timber and snrroiuidcd ])y f'nio 
 agricultnral lands. 
 
 The Pere Man^uette Uiver and White River, large 
 streams emptying into Tjako Mielngan, pass through 
 a region possessing nuicii the same characteristics. 
 This whole region is underlaid with lime rocks, a 
 rich soil, well watered with living springs, reseinbling 
 in many features the (Irand River Valley. Beds of 
 gypsum have been discovered <m the head waters of 
 the Pere Mar(|uette. 
 
 The unsettled counties in the northern portion of 
 the State, the northern portion of Montcalm and 
 Gratiot, Isabella, Gladwin, Clare and a portion of 
 Midland, are not inferior to any other portion. There 
 is a magnificent body of pine stretching from the 
 head of Flat River in Moncalm county to the upper 
 waters of the Tettibiwassee, and growing upon a fine 
 soil well adapted to agriculture. 
 
 This embraces a portion of the Saginaw Valley, 
 and covers the high ground dividing the waters of 
 Lakes Huron and Michigan. The eastern slope of 
 the Peninsula embraces a variety of soil and timber 
 somewhat different in its general features from other 
 portions of the State. The pine lands of this region 
 
Old Mackinuw 
 
 U7 
 
 lire near tho coast ot'tiio lake, atid lie in lar^c tracts 
 but with good agricultural land adjoining. Tlicro arc 
 in the Lower Peninsula, in round numbers, about 
 24,000,000 acres of land. 
 
 Taking Houghton Lake, near the centre of the 
 State, as a point of view, the general surfac*' may be 
 comprehended as follows: The Muskegon Valley 
 to the southwest following the ^[uskegon River in 
 its course to lake Michigan. The western >slopo of 
 the Peninsula directly west, embracing the pine and 
 agriculture districts along the valleys of several 
 large streams emptying into Lake Michigan. The 
 large and beautiful region to the northwest embrac- 
 ing the valley of the Manistee and the undulatiii^i^- 
 lands around the Grand Traverse Bay. Nortliward, 
 the region embraces tlio hoad-waters of the Manistee 
 and An Sauble, with the large tracts of excellent 
 pine in that locality, and beyond, the agricultural 
 region extending to Little Traverse Bay and the 
 Straights of Mackinaw. To the northeast, the val- 
 ley of th(i Au Sauble, and the pine region of Thun- 
 der Bay. To the east, the pine and hard timber ex 
 tending to Saginaw Bay. To the southeast, tlu; 
 Saginaw Valley ; and to the south, the high lands 
 before described in the central counties. 
 
 That portion of the State south of Saginaw and 
 
 msfsaoBmrn 
 
.-hs 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Ir !' 
 
 ^It- 
 
 
 the Gruud Hivor Valley is so well known th. i u(v 
 Hoription hero would bo unnooesaary. 
 
 'VUixH wo luivo yot undovoloped ovor linlf the sur- 
 fuco of this Poiiinsulu, oinbraoing, oortainly, 1 2,0U0,- 
 000 to 15,000,000 of acres, possessing stores of wealth 
 in the timber upon its surface, reserving soil for the 
 benefit of those, who, as the means of communica- 
 tion are opened, will come in and possess it, and 
 thus introduce industry und prosperity into our 
 waste places. 
 
 AVo have not the figures at hand, but it is proba- 
 ble that at least one-tenth of the area north of the 
 Gnmd River is embraced in the pine region. The 
 swamp lands granted to the State will probably cover 
 nearly double the area of the pine lands proper 
 The remainder for the most part is covered with a 
 magnificent growth of hard timber suited to the neces- 
 sities of our growing population and commerce. 
 
 The statistics herein furnished will give some idea 
 of the importance and value of the lumber traffic in 
 tliis States. The trade in pine timber, lumber, 
 shingles and other varieties of lumber, with the traf- 
 fic in staves form one of the most important branches 
 of manufacture and commerce in our own State, and 
 this trade alone is now accomplishing more for the 
 
349 ^^^ Mackinaw. 
 
 development and sottlcniout of the country than all 
 other causes in operation. 
 
 The lumber maimfnctorioM in Detroit and its 
 suburbs are eleven in niimb(»r. Tlio following are 
 the names of the proprietors and the amount cut last 
 year by each : 
 
 YT. I.UMHRH. P<>». LATH. 
 
 n. A. & H. (J. Wight (;,r)(M).()(m 2,220,000 
 
 Samuel PilU H,.'iOO.O(»0 482,000 
 
 — Moffttt (est) l.r)(M),()00 
 
 IT. B. Koiison :V2r)4.020 
 
 W. Wurnor k Co lOt.il'O 
 
 BrookH & Adams :<.H00,000 
 
 Baughman, Hubbard & Co 3,378,080 1,043„300 
 
 Klbbet', Fox & Co 3,000,000 800,000 
 
 N. Roevo 80(M>00 20,0ii00 
 
 Davis & David 2.00(1.000 
 
 Copcland 1,000,000 
 
 Total 29,426,479 4,745,300 
 
 The aggregate of capital employed by these mills 
 is $1,440,000. The above amount is no criterion of 
 their capacity. The same mills cut 46,000,000 feet 
 in 1856, and nearly the same in 1857, and their pro- 
 bable capacity is 54,000,000. Warner k Co., run 
 their mill only about five weeks last year, and are 
 now about retiring from business. One of the others 
 sustained a temporary loss of business by fire. The 
 product will in the aggregate be doubled next season. 
 The logs sawed in Detroit are procured from St. 
 30 
 
 HwiiW>fr-<.> 
 

 !■> 
 
 350 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 i:'' 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 ■«: 
 if ' 
 
 Clair River, Black River, Mill Creek and. Bello 
 River. As a large share of that sold here has been 
 on contract, there has been no great fluctuation in the 
 market at this point. On the first of July the rates 
 by the cargo were $25a$26 for clear and $19a20 for 
 second clear ; on the first of October, $24 for clear, 
 and $18 for second clear. 
 
 Last winter and spring were very unfavorable for 
 lumbering. Owing to the small quantity of snow, 
 but few logs were got out, and many of them being 
 on small streams, owing to the failure of the usual 
 spring freshets, were not sawed, so that upon the 
 whole the mills of the State turned out only about 
 half the amount of their capacity. 
 
 The market opened in the spring with flattering 
 prospects. Buyers from a number of important 
 points in the Eastern States, previously deriving 
 their supplies from Maine, visited our State, anxious 
 to secure contracts for choice lumber, and the opin- 
 ion prevailed that the demand would exceed the 
 supply. The prospect encouraged manufacturers to 
 make unwonted exertions in turning out all the 
 stock that could be rendered available, which in- 
 volved increased expense. In some places, as was 
 the case at Saginaw, a very large amount was 
 got out in the early part of the summer. About 
 
 i- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 35' 
 
 the close of June, the market experienced a sudden 
 and unlooked-for depression, after which prices 
 tended speedily downward, falling to such a low point 
 before the close of the season that manufacturers on 
 the west coast generally suspended their shipments. 
 Those on the east coast continued to ship, but their 
 shipments to a very great extent still remain unsold. 
 We are cognizant of 7,000,000 feet held in that way 
 by only four manufacturers. 
 
 The accounts this winter are very favorable, but 
 the idea that obtains, fixing the amount at a very 
 high figure, is vague and erroneous. The true state 
 of the case is, that manufactures, as a general thing, 
 in view of the depressed condition of the trade, have 
 been making calculations to do a light business, and 
 got out their logs sooner than they expected, and 
 will on the whole do rather more than they had 
 anticipated, having gone into the woods lighthanded. 
 The most experienced judges concur in fixing the 
 amount of logs got out this winter on River St. Clair, 
 at Port Huron and Saginaw Bay, but not including 
 the rivers above, at 175,000,000 feet. In the Sagi- 
 naws, it is ascertained that about 100,000,000 will 
 be got out. Taking the entire east coast, it is thought 
 the logs this winter would exceed those of last by 
 fifteen to twenty per cent. 
 
> 
 
 35^ 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 By Custom House statements of shipments, added 
 to actual receipts at one of the receiving points — 
 Chicago — it will be seen below that for 1859 a little 
 over 269,000,000 feet is the amount of shipments ar- 
 rived at. These figures, taken in connection with the 
 estimates of those competent to judge, render it cer- 
 tain that the actual amount shipped out of the State 
 did not vary materially from 400,000,000 feet. There 
 being no penalty involved in the fiiilure of masters of 
 vessels to report, there is great carelessness in the 
 matter. The Cleveland, Toledo and Sandusky ship- 
 ments, are at the outside, not more than half reported. 
 Those reported to Buffalo, Oswego etc., are a little 
 nearer the truth, but they fall, considerably below 
 the mark. 
 
 The amount made in 1859, did not vary materially 
 from that shipped. In the district embracing the 
 River St. Clair, Port Huron and the Lake Shore, 
 6,000,000 feet more were wintered over last year 
 than this. On the west coast it was different gene- 
 rally, so that the variation in the aggregate cannot 
 be much either v/ay. The capacity of the mills in 
 the pine lumber region is 900,000,000 feet, or pos- 
 sibly a little more. 
 
 As regards the amount of shingles made, even 
 dealers are much in the dark. To add 50 per cent. 
 to the Custom, House returns would certainly be 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 3?3 
 
 within bounds for the eastern coast. This would 
 give 120,000,000 as the amount. For the west coast, 
 if we take the amount received at Chicago, say 165,- 
 000,000, with an additional twenty-five per cent, 
 for that received at Milwaukee, and then estimate 
 that two-thirds of the whole amount were from the 
 west coast of Michigan, which is doubtless true, we 
 have 137,500,000 as the amount shipped by the coast, 
 making 267,500,000 for the whole Stnte. . 
 
 The improved demand (or staves has greatly 
 stimulated the production, and in localities where the 
 production of pine lumber is decreasing, that of stav(S 
 is taking its place. At Saginaw 2,500,000 were got 
 out last year, and this year there will be full as much, 
 or more. The greatest activity prevails, and dres- 
 sing by machinery has been started. At Lakeport, 
 Burchville, Lexington, Port Sanilac, Forester, Point 
 aux Barque, and Foresterville, 850,000 'vere got out 
 last year ; from Port Huron ana St. C^luir V,"0,000. 
 The amount turned out in the whoiO State could not 
 have been short of 20,000,000. 
 
 An immense amount of lath were turned out. A 
 mill that can turn out three millions of lumber, gene- 
 rally makes one million of lath. On this basis about 
 133,000,000 must have been turned out. The sup- 
 ply generally exceeds the demand. 
 30* 
 
314 
 
 Old Markinaw. 
 
 m 
 
 The lumber on the oast coast is worth at the mills 
 $9 per M.; that on the west coast $7. At the average 
 of $8, the amount made last year would be worth 
 $3,200,000. The value of shingles at $2 per M., was 
 $515,000, and the lath at $1 per M., are worth $133- 
 000. 
 
 We are enabled to present a nearly complete list 
 of names of owners, with the amount of capital re- 
 spectively, which will be of some interest, both at 
 home and abroad. So far as the east coast is con- 
 cerned, tic ilgures are in the main entirely reliable, 
 beiiig upon the authority of one of the best men in 
 the State who knows whereof he advises. Those for 
 the west coast, thought not perhaps so strictly correct 
 as the others, will as a general thing be found within 
 bounds. We hope the statistics will prove an incen- 
 tive to lumbermen to be more particular hereafter 
 in furnishing information ; 
 
 ' HLACK RIVKR. 
 
 Name. Capital. Name. Capital. 
 
 J. & J . Bayard S^IS.OOO Davis' mill $ 8,000 
 
 Sweetser & Bayard... 7,000 R. Wadham's mills.. 10,000 
 Comstock mill 7,000 
 
 MILL CREEK. 
 
 Bunce's mill 4,000 John H. Westbrook. 4,000 
 
 L. Brockway 2 mills 5,000 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 355 
 
 Name. 
 
 U.S.Lester 24,000 
 
 Hayues & Baird 24,000 
 
 Howard & Bachelor. . 15,000 
 
 Fish, two mills 35,000 
 
 Welles 24,000 
 
 PORT HURON. 
 
 Capital. Name. 
 
 Avery 
 
 Bunce 
 
 Hibbard 
 
 Black River mill... . 
 
 LOCKPORT. 
 
 Farrand 
 
 Woods, two mills*-. 
 
 Hubbard . . . 
 Jenks & Co. 
 
 BURCHVILLE. 
 
 30,000 John S. Minor.. 
 
 LEXINGTON. 
 
 8,000 Stevens & Davis. 
 20,000 Hitchcock & Co. 
 
 BARK SHANTY. 
 
 Oldfield. 
 
 FORESTER. 
 
 Emely , 
 
 Colin Campbell... 
 Daniels & Ripley. 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 B. B. Ward. 
 Bast 
 
 Moore & Scott. , .... 
 W. Truesdale 2 mills. 
 
 E. Smith 
 
 Smith & Chamberlin. . 
 
 ALGONAC. . , . 
 
 15,000 Smith 
 
 NEWPORT. 
 
 20,000 B. S. Horton 
 
 10,000 
 
 ST. CLAIR. 
 
 20,000 Oaks & Holland, two 
 
 60,000 mills 
 
 15,000 St. Clair 
 
 5,000 
 
 Capital. 
 
 75,000 
 24,000 
 40,000 
 35,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 7,000 
 
 10,000 
 30,000 
 
 lu,000 
 
 50,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 24,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 40,000 
 30,000 
 
>*^>' 
 
 m ; 
 
 w: 
 
 m 
 
 !* ' 
 
 'jy 
 
 M 
 
 I 
 
 as^ 
 
 Name, 
 E. B. Ward. 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 FOBESTVILLE. 
 Capital. Name. 
 
 . . 50,000 Breckinridge 
 
 VICK8BUR0, 
 
 Williams & Mills, three mills 
 
 Capital. 
 2,000 
 
 55,000 
 
 CIIKAOYOAN. 
 
 Three mills. 
 
 CHERRY CREEK. 
 
 Peninsular Bank. 
 
 Luddington 
 
 t Tubbard & Co 
 
 J)oDahue 
 
 A rmstrong & Co 
 
 Clark, Ballou & Co. .. 
 
 Moore & Smith 
 
 Geo. Lord & Co 
 
 Saml. Pitts 
 
 Beeson & Wheeler. . , 
 
 Beebe & Atwood 
 
 Henry Doty 
 
 J. J. McCormick .... 
 
 Portsmouth mill 
 
 Budd's n.ill. 
 
 • • ■ • • 
 
 HURON COUNTY. 
 
 12,000 Smith & Co.., 
 
 W. R. vStaiford.... 
 Pt Austin Company 
 Crawford & Co 
 
 50,000 
 30,000 
 10,000 
 
 BAY CriY. 
 
 35,000 McEwiiig & Brother 
 
 30,000 Bangor mills 
 
 24,000 Drake mills 
 
 30,000 Henry Raymond... 
 
 24,000 Catlin & Jennison.. 
 
 10,000 Miller & Butterfield 
 
 35,000 Frost & Bradley. . . 
 
 PORTSMOUTH. 
 
 10,000 Partridge mill 
 
 15,000 H D Braddack & Co 
 14,000 Watson & Southard 
 
 ZfLWAlKEK. 
 
 J. J. Westervelt. 
 
 CARROLLTON. 
 
 Name Unknown. 
 
 100,000 
 
 15,000 
 
 50,000 
 
 15,000 
 
 100,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 30,000 
 35,000 
 24,000 
 30,000 
 10,000 
 14,000 
 35,000 
 
 24,000 
 14,000 
 14,000 
 
 35,000 
 
 .35,000 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 357 
 
 EART SAGINAW. 
 
 Name. Capital. 
 
 Garrison & Co 24,000 
 
 I. Hill 20,000 
 
 Holland 10,000 
 
 Copeland& Co 10,000 
 
 Nanio. 
 
 Cushing & Co.. .. 
 
 L. B. Curtis 
 
 Wm. Gallagher. . . 
 Atwater mill 
 
 Oitpitiil. 
 
 36,000 
 24,000 
 14,000 
 30,000 
 
 20,000 
 50,000 
 
 SAGINAW CITY. 
 
 V. A. Payne 30,000 GDWilliains&Son 
 
 Curtis & King 30,000 D. Rust & Biother 
 
 New mill 20,000 
 
 TITTIBIWASSEK, PINE RIVEK AND SWAN CRKKK. 
 
 Eight mills 65,000 
 
 CASS, BAD, AND SHIAWASSEE HIVKRS. 
 
 Seven mills 50,000 
 
 LAPEER 
 
 D. Parrer 8,000 
 
 W. Williams 15,000 
 
 Crofoot & Baldwin. . . 15,000 
 
 Manwaring & Co 21,000 
 
 Wm. Peters 14,000 
 
 Thorp's mill 14,000 
 
 H. D. Torner 8,000 
 
 Lawrence & M'Arthur 7,000 
 
 Wm. Peter 30,000 
 
 Sixteen small mills.. . 85,000 
 
 N. H. Hart 
 
 Rogers & Jenness. 
 Smith & Jenness.. 
 
 Smith 
 
 J. B. Wilson 
 
 James Farrell .... 
 White & Peter. . . 
 
 W. H. Crapo 
 
 H.L. Hemingway. . 
 
 PINE RUN. 
 
 McFarren. 
 
 MONTROSE. 
 
 Name unknown. 
 
 21,000 
 24,000 
 15,000 
 14,000 
 14,000 
 10,000 
 10,000 
 60,000 
 6,000 
 
 20,000 
 30,000 
 
 ALPENA AND VICINITY. 
 
 G. N. Fletcher & Co. 35,000 Smith & (Jhamberlain 15,000 
 
 Lockwood & Miner. . . 25,000 D. D. Oliver 5,000 
 
 Harris & Co 35,000 Whitmore & Co 25,000 
 
 •"-*f' 
 
* 
 
 358 
 
 Old Mackinaw 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 SANILAC COUNTY. 
 Nam«. Capltiil. Natnit. CaplUl. 
 
 J. L. Woods & Co 5,000 Stevenson & Davis. . . 20,000 
 
 Mason & Luce 17,500 
 
 AU SAUBLK IIIOHLANDS. 
 
 Harris's mill 24,000 
 
 RIFLK RIVER, SAOANIN, COQUAMN, AND SAND BEACH. 
 
 Six mills 85.000 
 
 TUSCOLA COUNTY. 
 
 A.Watson 10^00 Edmunds & North. . .14,000 
 
 W. A. Hart 10,000 Richardson &Bro.... 14,000 
 
 Perry 5,000 Holmes 5,000 
 
 Others 30,000 
 
 FLINT AND VICINITY. 
 
 Eleven mills 715,000 
 
 There are also others on the east slope of the 
 lower peninsula, representing a capital of say — 
 $120,000. 
 
 Beyond the lower peninsula, there are some very 
 heavy manufactories, particularly around Green Bay, 
 (Michigan) generally estimated at $1,000,000, but 
 •which it would be safe to put at — $750,000. 
 
 Total capital, including Detroit, - - $5,360,000 
 
 WESTERN SLOPE — OTTAWA COUNTY. 
 
 Name. Capital. 
 
 Plugger & Nyn 24,000 
 
 Howard & Co 14,000 
 
 Ryerson & Morris, 2 
 
 mills 65,000 
 
 Chapin, Marsh & Foss 50,000 
 
 Name. Capital. 
 
 Ferry & Co 50,000 
 
 W. M. Ferry, Jr 50,000 
 
 Joseph Weld & Co... .30,000 
 T. W. White & Co... 50,000 
 
 Becker & Spoons 40,000 
 
 Richard Roberts 24,000 
 
 Jno. Haire 24,000 
 
 E. Jewitt 15,000 
 
 Smith, Forbes & Co.. .35,000 
 Trowbridge, Way & 
 Son 65,000 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 359 
 
 Name. CapiUl. 
 
 J. B. Bailey 14,000 
 
 Porter «fe Slyfield.... 14,000 
 
 C. Davies & Co 50,000 
 
 Durkce, Truesdell & 
 
 Co 40,000 
 
 George Ruddmain .... 40,000 
 
 Lewis & Davis 24,000 
 
 Eldridge& Co 24,000 
 
 Carleton & Co." ••. .24,000 
 
 Ferry & Son 40,000 
 
 Lind& Slater .50,000 
 
 Young, Savedge & Co.30,000 
 
 Amos Norton 40,000 
 
 Benj. Smith 30,000 
 
 Rhodes, Cloyn & Co.. 24,000 
 
 Hatch & Merritt 15,000 
 
 C.TTart 10,000 
 
 KENT 
 
 Jennison & Bro 14,000 
 
 W. T. Powers 2,000 
 
 Seymour 24,000 
 
 Gooch & Webber.... 5,000 
 
 A. McFarland 4,000 
 
 Thos. Myers 21,000 
 
 George Funck 8,000 
 
 S. Lapham 5,000 
 
 A. House 5,000 
 
 Farrell&Sons 10,000 
 
 J. C. Clements 15,000 
 
 T. Spencer 8,000 
 
 Dewey & Co 14,000 
 
 Namo. CaplUl. 
 
 L. G. Mason & Co.... 35,000 
 
 Beidler&Co 40,000 
 
 Mears & Co 24,000 
 
 Hill & Co 24,000 
 
 Colgrove & Co 18,000 
 
 Wm. Thompson 14,000 
 
 Harris & Co 8,000 
 
 Jno. Ford 8,000 
 
 Denton & Co 14,000 
 
 Carleton & Co 10,000 
 
 Jos. Dalton & Bro. . . . 10,000 
 
 S. Lawrence. 12,000 
 
 Edward Dalton 8,000 
 
 E. W. Merrill & Co... 14,000 
 
 Reed & Co 10,000 
 
 Brown & Grist 8,000 
 
 COUNTY. 
 
 Reed & Plum 5,000 
 
 N. H. Withey .'i.OOO 
 
 Knickerbuck 4,000 
 
 Robert Konkle 10,000 
 
 A. Roberts & Son... 25,000 
 White, Worden & Co. 25,000 
 
 C. C. Comstock 9,.^)00 
 
 D. Porter .5,000 
 
 Chase, Harris & Co.. 8,000 
 
 C.W.Taylor 6,000 
 
 D. Caswell 12,000 
 
 Hubbard, Hitchcock 
 
 &Co 16,000 
 
 NEWAYGO COUNTY. 
 
 Newaygo Company. . . 80,000 J. M. Wood, 2 mills. .25,000 
 Name unknown 24.000 Jamea Bntchford 10,000 
 
u*- 
 
 li 
 
 360 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 M 
 
 m 
 
 Name. Capital. Naina. Capital. 
 
 U. p. Mitchell 5,000 Amos Bigelow, 4,000 
 
 Weaver 3,000 
 
 8TONY CRRKK, OOKANA COUNTY. 
 
 Campbell, Wheeler & Co 25,000 
 
 PKRK MARQURTTK, BLACK CRKRK AND RIO HAUBLR. 
 
 C. Mears & Co., 3 mills 95,000 
 
 8PRINO CRRRK. 
 
 Hopkins & Co 24,000 
 
 MANI8TRR. 
 
 Coles 80,000 John C. Haines 55,000 
 
 McVickcr &Ingk'man.24,000 John Strnnch 40,000 
 
 One near Manistee. . .24.000 
 
 GRAND TRAVRRSR. 
 
 Hanna, Lay & Co 32,000 A. H. Wadsworth. . . . 15,000 
 
 WIIITK RIVRR. 
 
 Amos Rathbonc 24,000 
 
 MI COSTA. 
 
 Leonard, Ives, & Co 20,000 
 
 MONTCALM COUNTY. 
 
 Bruce 10,000 E. Gregory & Co 20,000 
 
 Slaght 14,000 
 
 LELANAW COUNTY. 
 
 Averill & Son 2,000 
 
 BEC SCRR's river. 
 
 R. Gardner 15,000 Name unknown 2,000 
 
 Chamberlin & Co 20,000 Harris & Co 10,000 
 
 IONIA COUNTY. 
 
 Estimated Aggregate 100,000 
 
 All others, on West Slope, estimated 350,000 
 
 Capital Western Slope 2,669,500 
 
 Total Capital of State $8,029,5000 
 
 :ii.<":- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 361 
 
 An intnlligent gcntlonian who, at our instance, 
 visited all the establishnuMita around Saginaw, and 
 procni\ I statistics, reports tlic amount of lumber 
 manufactured as follows : 
 
 Plao«. No. of Mills. 
 
 Bay City 11 
 
 Portsmouth 4 
 
 ZilwauUcc I 
 
 Carrollton i 
 
 East Saj?inaw ^ .... 
 
 Sii/riiiaw City 4 . . , 
 
 Bad River 2 
 
 Raited liUnibcr 4,000,000 
 
 FmI. 
 
 20,000,000 
 
 , r),ooo,ooo 
 
 3,000,000 
 , 2,800,000 
 .19,750,000 
 , 14,000.000 
 
 4,r)0o,ooo 
 
 Total 73,050,000 
 
 Valuation, at s(|;8.r)0 i)er M. $020,925 
 
 Of the above lumber, ()3,000,000 has been ship 
 ped ; the rest is now on the docks. 
 
 Shingles manufactured 25,000,000 at $2.50 $02,500 
 
 Lath " 5,000,000 at 1.00 5,000 
 
 Oak Staves " 
 
 and shipped 2,000,000 at 30.00 00,000 
 
 Add Lumber 020,925 
 
 Total $748,425 
 
 The supply of pine in some few localities is be- 
 coming exhausted, and some few mills have ceased 
 operating. This is the case at Lexington, but the 
 machinery and capital have been taken elsewhere. 
 At the present ratio of consumption, the supply of 
 31 
 
■*", 
 
 f^^. 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 125 
 
 liilza 
 
 :^ 1^ 12.0 
 
 IL25 iu 
 
 M 
 
 1.6 
 
 ■I 
 
 
 Hiotographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 CorporatiQn 
 
 23 WIST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 
 
 (716) 872-4S03 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 '^ 
 

y 
 
 IK I 
 
 [i 
 
 m- 
 
 362 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 pine must rapidly become diminished, but profitable 
 employment will then be found in the manufacture 
 of hemlock and hard-wood. Some little has already 
 been done in the way of turning out hemlock. The 
 
 manufacture of hard-wood lumber is increasinsr 
 
 very 
 
 rapidly. 
 
 The copper interest of Michigan was first brought 
 into public notice by the enormous speculations and 
 the mad fever of 1845. The large spur of country 
 which projects far out into the lake, having its base 
 resting on a line drawn across from L'Anse Bay to 
 Ontonagon, and the Porcupine Mountains for its 
 spine, became the El Dorado of all copperdom of 
 that day. Tn this year the first active operations 
 were commenced at the Cliff Mine, just back of 
 Eagle Eiver harbor. Three years later, in 1848, 
 work was undertaken at the Minnesota, some fifteen 
 miles back from the lake at Ontonagon. 
 
 The history of the copper mines on Lake Superior 
 shows that even the best mines disappointed the 
 owners in the beginning. "We give the facts relative 
 to the three mines at present in the' Lake Superior 
 region to illustrate this. The Cliff Mine was dis- 
 covered in 1845, and worked three years without 
 much sign of success ; it changed hands at the very 
 moment when the vein was opened whicli proved 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 363 
 
 afterward to be so exceedingly rich in copper and 
 silver, producing now on an average 1,500 tons of 
 stamp, barrel, and mass copper per annum. 
 
 The Minnesota Mine was discovered in IS-iS, and 
 for the first three years gave no very encouraging- 
 results. The first large mass of native copper of 
 about seven tons was found in a pit made by an an- 
 cient race. After that discovery much money was 
 spent before any other further indications of copper 
 were found. This mine yields now about 2,000 tons 
 of copper per annum, and declared, for the year 1858, 
 a net dividend of $300,000. The dividends paid 
 since 1852 amount to upward of $1,500,000 on a 
 paid-up capital of $66,000. 
 
 The same has been experienced at the Pewabic 
 Mine. That mine commenced operations in the 
 year 1855, with an expenditure of $26,357, which 
 produced $1,080 worth of copper; the second year 
 it expended $40,820, and produced $31,492 of cop- 
 per ; in 1857 $24,484 of expenses produced $44,058 
 worth of copper; 1858, the amount expended was 
 $109,152, and the receipts for copper $76,538; the 
 total expense amounts to $235,816, and the total re- 
 ceipts for copper to $153,168, leaving an excess of 
 expenses amounting to $82,648, which is, however, 
 
3^4 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 i-t 
 
 r : 
 ' 'A . 
 
 if 7 
 
 ! 
 
 amply covered by the extensive works established 
 above and below ground at the mine. 
 
 The Pewabic will undoubtedly take its place 
 among the dividend-paying mines of the present 
 year. 
 
 It is scarcely ten years that mining has been prop- 
 erly commenced in that remote region. At that time 
 it was difficult, on account of the rapids of St. Mary's 
 Kiver, to approach it by water with large craft. Being 
 more than a thousand miles distant from the centre 
 of the Union, destitute of all the requirements for 
 the development of mines ; every tool, every part 
 of machinery, every mouthful of provisions had to 
 be hauled over the rapids, boated alcng the shores 
 for hundreds of miles to the copper region, and 
 there often carried on the back of man and beast to 
 the place where copper was believed to exist. Every 
 stroke of the pick cost tenfold more than in popu- 
 lated districts ; every disaster delayed the operations 
 for weeks and months. 
 
 The opening of the Saut Canal has changed all 
 this and added a wonderful impetus to the busi- 
 ness, the mining interests, and the development 
 of the Lake Superior country. Nearly one hundred 
 different vessels, steam and sail, have been engaged 
 the past season in its trade, and the number ^f 
 
 ||5^.., 
 
Old Mackinaw. 365 
 
 these is destined largely to increase year by year, 
 an indication of the growth of business and the 
 opening up of the country. For the growth in the 
 copper interest we have only to refer to the ship- 
 ments from that region year by year. These, in 
 gross, are as follows : 
 
 1853. 2,535 tons. 
 
 1854 3,500 " 
 
 1855 4,544 " 
 
 18.5G 5,357 " 
 
 1857 6,094 " 
 
 1858 6,025 " 
 
 1859 6,245 " 
 
 The same facts of development would hold gener- 
 ally true, with regard to the other industrial interests 
 of that vast country. 
 
 It remains yet almost wholly *' a waste, howling 
 wilderness." At Marquette, Portage Lake, Copper 
 Harbor, Eagle Eiver, Eagle Harbor, and Ontonagon, 
 and the mines adjacent, are the only places whe^e 
 the primeval forests have given place to the enter- 
 prise of man, and these in comparison with the 
 whole extent of territory embraced in this region, 
 are but mere insignificant patches. What this coun- 
 try may become years hence, it would defy all spe- 
 culations now to predict, but there seems no reason 
 
 . 81* 
 
 mmmmmm. 
 
 iSi^,i 
 
»'» 
 
 366 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 li^ 
 
 V 
 
 It 
 
 1.1' f 
 
 
 S&v 
 
 
 to doubt thiit it will exceed the most Hanguinc ex- 
 peetations. 
 
 The copper region is divided into three districts 
 viz., the Ontonagon, the most northern, the Kewee- 
 naw Point, the most eastern, and the Portage Lake, 
 lying mostly below and partially between the range 
 of the two. In the first are situated the Minne- 
 sota, the Rockland, the National, and a multitude 
 of other mines of lesser note, profit, or promise. In 
 the Cliff, the Copper Falls, and others. In the last 
 are the Pewabic, Quincy, Isle Koyale, Portage, 
 Franklin, and numerous others. Each district has 
 some peculiarities of product, the first developing 
 the masses, while the latter are more prolific in 
 vein-rock, the copper being scattered throughout the 
 rock. 
 
 There have been since 1845 no less than 116 cop- 
 per-mining companies organized under the general 
 law of our State. The amount of capital invested 
 and now in use, or which has been paid out in ex- 
 plorations and improvements, and lost, is estimated 
 by good judges at $6,000,000. The nominal amount 
 of capital stock invested in all the companies which 
 have charters would reach an indefinite number of 
 millions. As an offset to this, it may be stated that 
 the Cliff and Minnesota mines have returned over 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 367 
 
 $2,000,000 in dividends from the beginning of tlicir 
 operations, and tlic value of tliese two mines will 
 more than cover the whole amount spent in mining, 
 and for all the extravagant undertakings which 
 have been entered upon and abandoned. While 
 success has been the exception and failure the rule 
 in copper speculations, yet it must be admitted that 
 these exceptions are remarkably tempting ones. 
 Doubtless there is immense wealth still to be devel- 
 oped in these enterprises, and this element of wealth 
 in the Lake Superior region is yet to assume a mag- 
 nitude now unthought of. 
 
 The copper is smelted mainly in this city, Cleve 
 land, and Boston, the works in this city being the 
 largest. There is one establishment at Pittsburg 
 which does most of the smelting for the Cliff Mine, 
 we believe ; one at Bergen, N. Y., and one at New 
 Haven, Conn. There are two at Baltimore, but 
 they are engaged on South American Mineral. The 
 Bruce Mines on the Canada side of Lake Huron have 
 recently put smelting works in operation on their 
 location. Prior to this the mineral was barreled up 
 and shipped to London, being taken over as ballast, 
 in packet ships, at low rates. 
 
 The amount of copper smelted in this city we can 
 only judge by the amount landed here, but this will 
 
*'*: 
 
 368 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 tv 
 
 :M 
 
 i* 
 mh 
 
 ft'-"! 
 
 i' 
 
 ': 4; 
 
 i f 
 
 *:''?? 
 
 afford a pretty accurate estimate. The number of 
 tons landed here, in 1859, was 3,088. The copper 
 yield of Lake Superior will produce between HO and 
 70 per cent, of ingot copper, which is remarkably 
 pure. The net product of the mines for 1859, is 
 worth in the mai'kets of the world nearly or quite 
 $2,000,000. This large total shows the capabilities 
 of this region and affords us some basis of calculation 
 as to the value and pi-obable extent of future deve- 
 lopment. 
 
 Beside the amount already noticed as landed 
 here there were 1,268 tons brought to this city from 
 the Bruce Mines, and sent on to London. The 
 mineral of this location is of a different quality from 
 that of Lake Superior and not near so productive of 
 pure copper. The price of ingot copper in New 
 York the past season has arranged from 20J to 23J 
 cents per pound, averaging full 22 J cents. 
 
 There are indications that Michigan is slowly but 
 surely taking the rank to which she is entitled in the 
 manufacture as well as production of iron. The first 
 shipment of pig iron of any consequence was made by 
 the Pioneer Company in the fall of 1858. Dr. Eus- 
 sell, of this city, is turning out large quantities. His 
 works went into operation about two years and a 
 half ago, but were burned after running sixty days. 
 
 ri I 
 
Old Mackinaw. 369 
 
 They were immediately rebuilt by the enterprising 
 proprietor. 
 
 The Lake Superior iron has been proclaimed the 
 best in the world, a proposition that none ean suc- 
 cessfully refute. Its (luulities are V)ecoming known 
 in quarters where it would naturally be expected its 
 superiority would bo admitted reluctantly, if at all. 
 It is now sent to New York and Ohio, and even to 
 Pennsylvania — an agency for its sale havin'r been 
 established in Pittsburg. For gearing, shafting, 
 cranks, flanges, and, we ought by all means, to add, 
 car- wheels, no other should be used, provided it can 
 be obtained. 
 
 A large amount of capital is invested in the iron 
 interest in Michigan, as tl: llowing figures prove : 
 
 Pioneer $150,000 
 
 Jackson 300,000 
 
 Collin? 150,000 
 
 Clev ! , >d 300,000 
 
 Lake S iperior and Iron Mountain R. R. Co.... 700,000 
 
 Northern Michigan Iron Company 110,000 
 
 Wyandotte Rolling Mills 236,000 
 
 Eureka Iron Company 117,000 
 
 Pr. G. B. Russell's 60,000 
 
 Ford & Philbrick's Steam Forge 25,000 
 
 2,148,000 
 Marquette is the only point on Lake Superior 
 
 "•»*«»■ 
 
370 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 1^ '■ 
 
 '.LYr 
 
 
 where the iron ore (le|)(3sits have been worked. 
 There are tlepoHits of iron in the rnouutains back of 
 L'Anse, but this wonderful re'don leaves nothiii'"- 
 more to ^e desired for the present. At a distance 
 of eighteen miles from the lake, are to be found iron 
 mountains named the Sharon, Burt, Lake Superior, 
 Cleveland, Collins, and Barlow, while eight miles 
 further baek lie the Ely and St. Clair mountains. 
 Three of these mountains are at present worked, the 
 Sharon, the Cleveland, and the Lake Superior, and 
 contain enough ore to supply the world for genera- 
 tions to come. The mountains further back embrace 
 tracts of hundreds of acres rising to a height of from 
 four to six hundred feet, which, there is every I'eason 
 to believe, from the explorations made, are solid iron 
 ore. The extent of the contents of these mountains 
 is perfectly fabulous, in fact, so enormous as almost 
 to baffle computation. The ore, too is remarkably 
 rich, yielding about seventy per cent, of pure metal. 
 There are now in operation at Marquette three Iron 
 Mining Companies, and two blast furnaces for mak- 
 ing charcoal pig iron, the Pioneer and Meigs. The 
 Pioneer has two stacks and a capacity of twenty tons 
 of pig iron per day ; the Meig sone stack, capable 
 of turning out about eleven tons. The Northern 
 Iron Company is building a large bituminous coal 
 
 m., • 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 37' 
 
 furnace at the mouth of the Cliocolate River, three 
 miles south of Marquette, wliich will be in opera- 
 tion early in the summer. 
 
 Each of the minin<( companies, the Jackson, 
 Cleveland and Lake Superior, have docks at the har- 
 bor for shipment, extending out into the spacious 
 and beautiful bay which lies in front of ^farquette 
 to a sufficient Icnryth to enable vessels of the lar'jrest 
 dimension to lie by their side and to be loaded 
 directly from the cars, which arc run over the vessels 
 and dumped intoshutcs, which are made to empty di- 
 rectly into the holds. The process of loading is 
 therefore very expeditious and easy. 
 
 The amount of shipments of ore for 1859, fiv»m 
 Marquette to the ports below, reaches 75,000 gross 
 tons in round numbers, and the shipments of pig iron, 
 6,000 gross tons more. To this must be added the 
 amount at Marquette when navigation closed, the 
 amount at the mines ready to be brought down, and 
 the amount used on the spot. This will give a total 
 product of the iron mines of Michigan for the past 
 year of between ninety and one hundred thousand, tons. 
 These mining companies simply mine and ship the 
 ore and sell it. Their profit ranges between seventy- 
 five cents and one dollar per ton. 
 
 The quality of the iron of Lake Superior is cop- 
 
 Hwr-gt .> ,^ , 
 
I: 
 
 
 k 
 
 If. 
 
 tl 
 
 372 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ceded by all to bo the best in the world, as the 
 analysis of Prof. Johnson, which we reproduce, shows. 
 The table shows the relative strength per square inoli 
 in pounds. 
 
 Salisbury, Conn., iron .'iH.OOO 
 
 Swedish (best) .')8,184 
 
 English cable 59,10.') 
 
 Centre county, Pa 50.400 
 
 Essex county, N. Y .')9,9f)2 
 
 Lancaster county, Pa 58,()(>1 
 
 Russia (beat) 76.0G9 
 
 Common English and American 30,000 
 
 Lake Superior 89,582 
 
 The manufacture of pig iron at Marquette will 
 probably be carried on even more extensively as the 
 attention of capitalists is directed to it. The follow- 
 ing may be considered a fair statement of the cost of 
 producing one ton of pig iron at the Pioneer Iron 
 Co.'s works : 
 
 l^ tons iron ore, at $1.50 per ton $2 50 
 
 125 bushels charcoal at 7 cents per bushel. . . . 8 75 
 
 Fluxing 50 
 
 Labor 2 50 
 
 Incidental expenses 1 00 
 
 Cost at the works 15 00 
 
 Freight on R. R. and dockage 1 37 
 
 Cost on board vessel $16 36 
 
 The quantity of wood required for charcoal for 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 373 
 
 both furnaces, is iinmonso. Tlio pioncor furimoo 
 requires 2,500 busliels of coal in twenty-four hours ; 
 and in blast as they aire, (hiy and niglit, for six 
 months, and at a yieUl of forty Inishels of coal to a 
 cord of wood, it would re([uire 15,000 cords of wood 
 to keep tliem going. The corni)any has had 120,000 
 cords chopped this season. ^IMiis vast consumption 
 of wood will soon cause the country to be completely 
 stripped of its timber. Coal will then come into use. 
 The business of manufacturing pig iron may be ex- 
 tended indefinitely, as the material is without limit, 
 and the demand, thus far, leaving nothing on hand. 
 
 These facts exhibit the untold wealth of Michigan 
 in iron alone, and point with certainty to an extent 
 of business that will add millions to our invested 
 capital, dot our State with iron manufactories of all 
 kinds, and furnish regular employment to tens of 
 thousands of our citizens, while our raw material and 
 our wares shall be found in all the principal markets 
 of the world. 
 
 The superior fish, found in such profusion in our 
 noble lakes and rivers, while they afford a highly- 
 prized luxury for immediate consumption, from one 
 of our leading articles of export, and are very justly 
 regarded as constituting one of our greatest interests. 
 
 It is estimated by men of intelligence that the 
 82 
 
 ■HP 
 
 aSBB 
 
 m mmm^m i>f' 'm nm t ti\, ' i .'!« wi« »»\ -iHi*^^ -: 
 
n 
 
 fiv 
 
 374 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ID 
 
 if 
 
 m 
 
 value of our yearly catch of fish is greater than that 
 of all taken in fresh waters in the thirty-two remain- 
 ing States of the Union. This may at first blush 
 seem like a broad assertion, but it is no doubt strictly 
 within bounds. If the claim be not too much of the 
 nature of a truism, we may add that so far as quality 
 is concerned the superiority of our finny tribes is 
 even more strongly marked than in regard to quan- 
 tity. In the sluggish streams that abound in " ten 
 degrees of more effulgent clime," the fish partake 
 of the slimy properties of their native element ; it is 
 only in the limpid waters of the North that they are 
 found of flavor so unexceptionable as to please an 
 epicurean taste, or exalt them to the dignity of a 
 staple of commerce. Fish possess peculiar qualities 
 to commend them as an article of food, independent 
 of the arbitrary preference of the epicure. They are 
 universally esteemed as a wholesome and nutritious 
 diet. In that pleasant work, Irving's " Astoria," a 
 tribe of Indians are described who subsisted entirely 
 on fish, whose rotund appearance contrasted strongly 
 with the physique of their brethren of the forest. 
 The profusion with which the finny tribes propagate 
 their species is a peculiarity said to be imparted to 
 those who partake freely and regularly of them for 
 food, d supposition which would seem to be strongly 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 375 
 
 supported by facta. B'isherrneri are proverbial lor 
 the number of their deseendaiits. One of the tribe 
 who dries his nets in Sarnia, is the happy father of 
 nineteen children, and we can cite numerous proofs 
 almost equally striking in support of this theory. 
 
 The fisheries have always been a leading subject in 
 the government policy of sea-board nations. They are 
 a prime source of revenue, and have been the cause of 
 numerous wars. The serious controversy between 
 the United States and Great Britain concerning the 
 Newfoundland fisheries, is still fresh in the memory 
 of our readers. Recently the earnest attention of the 
 French government has been directed to propositions 
 for the artificial propagation of fish, as a means of 
 aftbrding good and clieap food to the people at a 
 merely nominal cost. The gradual diminution of 
 the species, as well as the ultimate extinction of the 
 large birds and quadrupeds, is everywhere a condi- 
 tion of advanced civilization and the increase and 
 spread of an industrial population. To provide a 
 remedy for the evil, the science of pisciculture has 
 latterly attracted no small degree of attention, and, 
 at this time, gentlemen prominently identified with 
 our fishing interest have it in contemplation to stock 
 lakes in the interior of Michigan with a view to the 
 prosecution of the science. 
 
 'STssasmmmmBSf. 
 
 llMMMHil) 
 
37^ 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 !#■ 
 
 Moat oC the fish packed on Lake Huron, and riv- 
 ers St. Clair and Detroit, find their way into the Ohio 
 market. The trade with that State has rapidly in- 
 creased, but in its early stages it had some difficul- 
 ties to contend with, to one of which we will briefly 
 allude. Some twelve or fourteen years ago, a largo 
 quantity of fish, not less than 8,000 to 10,000 barrels, 
 which had been caught in Lake Superior, were in 
 the possession of a single dealer, who had them 
 stored in the large warehouse recently torn down at 
 the Detroit and Milwaukee Railway depot. He had 
 oportunities to dispose of them at $8 per barrel, but 
 refused to sell them for less than $10, and the result 
 was that they were kept so long that many of them 
 spoiled. They were complained of as a nuisance, 
 and 1,500 barrels were turned out into the river at 
 one time. Part of the lot was, however, sent to Ohio, 
 and the effect was, for a time, extremely prejudicial 
 to our trade, requiring a great deal of explanation 
 before the Cincinnati dealers could be again induced 
 to stand in the position of customers. But when 
 confidence once more became fairly restored, the 
 circumstance seemed to have the effect to precipitate 
 the trade between tl two cities. At least it grew 
 rapidly from that day, our neighbors purchasing 
 freely of our staple articles and sending us sugar and 
 
 
 i I 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 377 
 
 molasses in return. Thus, as in Samson's time, honey 
 was gathered from the carcass of tlic dead lion. Ohio 
 has become a very large consumer of our fish, and 
 her influence is being extended rapidly into Indiana. 
 
 The habits of fish are as interesting as anything 
 in the animal economy, constituting a beautiful study 
 for the lover of nature; but this branch does not 
 come within the scope of our article, and we must 
 content ourselves with a brief description of the prin- 
 cipal varieties, particularly such as are held in 
 highest repute for packing, with such statistics as we 
 have been able to procure. 
 
 White-fish are more highly prized than any other 
 kind found in our waters, being decidedly the most 
 delicious in a fresh state, and when packed command 
 a higher price than any other by $1 per bbl. They 
 are found in the Straits and all the Lakes. They spawn 
 in the fall, in the Straits, and in shoals and on reefs 
 about the Lakes. They are caught in seines, gill 
 nets, trap nets, and with spears ; never with hooks. 
 Those found in Detroit river come up from Lake 
 Erie regularly in the fall to deposit their spawn. 
 They were found in our lakes and rivers in vast quan- 
 tities when the white men first visited their shores. 
 They constituted, with other kinds, the principal 
 food of the white and Indian voyagers as they coasted 
 32* 
 
 1 1..." -UUK 4**., 
 
37« 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 m 
 
 iinnind the lakes, and were invaluable to the first 
 settlers of the country, who, perhaps in some cases, 
 but for the assistance they afforded, would have been 
 connpelled to relinquish their settlements. They 
 could catch a supply at any time, and they then had 
 an unfailing resort when their crops failed. White- 
 fish were a great favorite with the Indians. They 
 would give many times their weight in trout or any 
 other species in exchange for them. It is said that 
 a person can subsist longer upon them than upon 
 any other kind. 
 
 Their ordinary weight is from 3 to 5 lbs, length 15 
 inches, though some have been caught weighing not 
 less than 18 lbs. They are a beautiful fish, and 
 when first taken out of the water and struggle and 
 flounder in the sun, they exhibit all the colors of the 
 rainbow, but they soon expire, and when dead they 
 are of a delicate white color. The trout, pike, and 
 muscalonge devour them without mercy. Some of 
 these voracious kinds have been caught with the re- 
 mains of six white-fish in them. 
 
 The Detroit Eiver white-fish are more juicy and 
 better flavored than those caught in the upper lakes, 
 probably from the fact that they feed on more 
 delicate food, but those found in Lake Superior sur- 
 pass all others in size. They were once so numer- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 379 
 
 ous that eight thousand were taken at a single haul. 
 At present a haul of one or two thousand is thought 
 a very good one. In all the rivers they arc growing 
 scarce very gradually, but surely. The ratio of de- 
 crease cannot be arrived at with any degree of j)re- 
 cision. A few years ago they were mostly taken 
 with gill nets, and when they fell of in one place, a 
 corresponding increase would be found in another. 
 Now they are taken with trap nets along the shore. 
 The trap nets are a decided advantage over gill nets. 
 They allow the fish to be kept alive, and they are 
 taken out at leisure; they are therefore of better 
 quality. 
 
 Pickerel are also held in high esteem. They are 
 good either fresh, or salted and dried, and for pack- 
 ing, rank next in value to white, although held 
 nominally at the same price as trout when packed. 
 They generally run up the rivers and lakes in the 
 spring to spawn, where they are caught in consider- 
 able numbers. Average weight, 2 lbs ; large, 20 lbs ; 
 common length, 15 inches. 
 
 Lake or Mackinaw trout are as voracious as pike. 
 They are chiefly caught on Lake Huron with gill 
 nets and hooks. Saginaw Bay appears to be a 
 favorite resort with them. Some winters large 
 quantities are caught in the Bay through the ice, 
 
 " •«-''^**«l»*'^fl"«i«*P«!HBIBW»»W 
 
38o 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 
 
 with u decoy lisli and spear. They spawn in the 
 fall, generally in the bays and inlets. Average 
 weight 5 lbs ; large 751bs. 
 
 Siscowits are mostly found in Lake Superior, and 
 are preferred by some to any other kind. They are of 
 the trout family, and for fat are unequaled ; they are 
 mostly taken in gill nets. They spawn in the fall, 
 and are very superior for packing. They are also 
 of some value for their oil. Common weight 4 
 pounds, length 16 inches. 
 
 Large herrings are very good fish, found only in 
 the straits and large lakes. They spawn in the fall ; 
 but few are caught. Average weight If pounds ; 
 common length 10 inches. 
 
 In addition to the above the muskelonge— a large 
 and delicious variety — black and white bass, rock 
 bass, perch, sturgeon, and at least twenty other 
 kinds, abound in our waters ; a minute description 
 of which we are compelled to forego. White-fish 
 are taken both spring and fall, chiefly the latter ; 
 spring is the season for pickerel ; trout are taken at 
 all seasons. . 
 
 Something over a year since some excitement was 
 occasioned by a mode of fishing adopted by a party 
 of fishermen on Detroit river, who stationed nets over 
 a mile and a half in extent across the mouth of the 
 
 
I- 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 381 
 
 stream, a procccdiug that was not only calculated to 
 destroy the value of the seine fisheries above, but 
 which would ultimately have driven the fish out of 
 the river altogether. A formidable opposition was of 
 course arrayed against this unusual and unwarrant- 
 able proceeding, and the party found it expedient to 
 desist, but the Legislature, which met shortly after, 
 failed to pass an inhibitive measure. This action, or 
 rather want of action, would have been considered 
 extraordinary in a State less favored by nature. 
 
 We have fortunately been able to procure esti- 
 mates of the amount of the catch at all the various 
 fisheries, together with other leading statistics ; and 
 with the view of imparting to the subject a more 
 general interest, we include two or three points be- 
 yond the limits of the State. The estimates are 
 furnished by gentlemen of intelligence and expe- 
 rience, and may be relied on as substantially cor- 
 rect: 
 
 Sandusky fisheries, catch mostly sold fresh : 
 
 Whitefish, valuation $50,000 
 
 Pickerel, bass, etc 40,000 
 
 Value of seines and fixtures 16,000 
 
 Paid for wages 37,000 
 
 Maumee Eiver, pickerel, white bass, etc., etc., mostly 
 
 sold fresh. 
 Valuation $50,000 
 

 382 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Heincs and fixturo8 $15,000 
 
 Paid lor wages 12,000 
 
 Maumec Bay and Monroe County, Michigan, white 
 
 fish and pickerel : 
 
 Valuation $20,000 
 
 Pounds, Huines, and fixtures 9,000 
 
 Paid for wages 10,000 
 
 Detroit River, nearly all white : 
 
 Valuation $75,000 
 
 Seines, fishing grounds, and fixtures 40,000 
 
 Paid for wages 20,000 
 
 St. Clair River and Rapids, mostly pickerel : 
 
 Valuation $11,000 
 
 Cost of fixtures 2,000 
 
 Paid for wages 1,200 
 
 Port Huron to Point au Barque, 3,000 barrels, 
 
 mostly white : 
 
 Valuation $25,000 
 
 Au Sauble 6,000, barrels, | white, the rest trout : 
 
 Valuation $50,000 
 
 Boats, nets, etc 13,000 
 
 Paid for wages 7,000 
 
 Thunder Bay and vicinity, above Sauble River, 
 6,000 barrels, mostly white : 
 
 Valuation $50,000 
 
 Saginaw Bay and River, 2,000 barrels pickerel and 
 
 1,500 white and trout. 
 
 Valuation $32,000 
 
 Tawas, 600 barrels, mostly white. 
 
 Valuation $5,000 
 
Old Mackinaw. 383 
 
 Between Thunder Bay and Mackinac, 500 barrels, 
 mostly white : 
 Valuation $4,500 
 
 Mackinac, including all brought there, 7,500 barrels, 
 
 } or J white : 
 Valuation $62,000 
 
 Beaver Islands and neighborhood, 7,000 barrels, 
 nearly all white : 
 Valuation $59,000 
 
 Green Bay in Michigan, 3,000 barrels, all wiiite : 
 
 Valuation $25,500 
 
 Island between De Tour and the Saut, 1,000 barrels, 
 5 white, the rest trout : 
 Valuation $8,000 
 
 Green Bay in Wisconsin, 2,500 barrels white and 
 500 barrels pickerel, all packed : 
 Valuation $25,000 
 
 Of the catch of Lake Huron, only an inconsider- 
 able amount are sold fresh. On Detroit Kiver about 
 4,000 barrels were packed last year. 
 
 Having procured specific information of the cost 
 of outfit and amount paid for wages at the Sauble 
 fisheries, we have taken such expenditures as the 
 basis for those of all the upper lake fisheries in pro- 
 portion to the catch, which in the main will doubt- 
 less prove substantially correct. At the Sauble last 
 
\ . 
 
 r|.' 
 
 I: 
 
 384 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 BeuHon there were sixteen boats employed for two 
 months, and eiglit tor the rest of the season. The 
 value of the boats was $200 each, and the nets, etc., 
 eost an additional sum of $600 for each, making tlie 
 aggregate value of the boats and their outfit about 
 $18,000. About forty men were employed on an 
 average during the season, receiving a probable ag- 
 gregate of $7,000 for wages. Taking these outlays, 
 etc., as a fair average, and we have the following 
 result : 
 
 From Port Huron to the Beavers, inclusive, to- 
 gether with Green Bay in Michigan, and the Saut 
 
 Islands : 
 
 Cost of outfit S83,500 
 
 Amount paid for wages 45,000 
 
 Average number of men .300 
 
 The amount shipped from Lake Superior, as ap- 
 pears from the report of the Superintendent of the 
 Saut canal is 4,000 barrels. This is probably not a 
 tithe of what might be done. The mouth of almost 
 every stream in that region affords good fishing 
 grounds, which is also true of most of the islands, par- 
 ticularly Isle Roy ale, where the siscowit is very 
 abundant. 
 
 The fisheries on the east coast of Lake Michigan 
 have for about six years past increased very rapidly 
 
Old Mackinaw. 385 
 
 in importance, some years gaining 100 per cent, on 
 the year preceding. A few years since a party of 
 Norwegians came 011 and embarlced in the business, 
 which they have prosecuted ever since with advaU' 
 tage and profit. Trained in the severe school of 
 their rugged northern liorae, they exhibit the great- 
 est daring, going out in their tiny craft during the 
 heaviest gales. They frequently venture out twenty- 
 five miles from shore, almost meeting their country- 
 men from the Wisconsin side of the lake, who are 
 engaged in the same hazardous calling. We have 
 the following returns : 
 
 Little Traverse, 600 barrels : 
 
 Valuation ^4,000 
 
 .300 nets and 6 boats, worth 1,800 
 
 Paid for wages ,')7.'> 
 
 Big Point Sauble, 1,500 barrels : 
 
 Valuation $1 2,000 
 
 GOO nets and 8 boats 3,600 
 
 Paid for wages 1,700 
 
 Little Point Sauble, 2,000 barrels: 
 
 Valuation $16,500 
 
 750 nets and 10 boats 4,500 
 
 Paid for wages 2,000 
 
 White Lake, 1,500 barrels : 
 
 Valuation $12,000 
 
 500 nets and 5 boats 3,000 
 
 Paid for wages 1,600 
 
 88 
 
.J 
 
 h 
 
 fc 
 
 386 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Grand Haven, 4,000 barrels : 
 
 Vulutttion $32,800 
 
 800 noiH and 8 boats 4,000 
 
 Paid Tor wagcH 6,000 
 
 Siiugatuck, 2,000 barrels : 
 
 Valuation $16,000 
 
 600 nets and 6 boats 3,600 
 
 Paid for wages 2,500 
 
 South Haven, 2,100 barrels : 
 
 Valuation $16,800 
 
 600 nets and 6 boats 1,200 
 
 Paid tor wages 2,500 
 
 St. Joseph's 8,500 barrels : 
 
 Valuation $28,000 
 
 1,200 nets and 9 boats 7,500 
 
 Paid for wages 
 
 New Buftalo, 300 barrels : 
 
 Valuation $3,000 
 
 400 nets and 5 boats 2,600 
 
 Paid for wages 450 
 
 Michigan City, 3,000 barrels : 
 
 Valuation $30,000 
 
 1,020 nets and 18 boats 8,000 
 
 Paid for wages 4,400 
 
 Showing an aggregate of 21,000 barrels, of which 
 about 18,000 barrels are salted; valuation $169,800; 
 value of fixtures $43,600 ; estimated amount paid for 
 wages, $22,000. 
 
 The fishing grounds of Michigan City are almost 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 387 
 
 entirely within our State. The number of barrels 
 include those Hold Irosh as well ns salted, there being 
 a consifUirablo quantity of the former, in some of the 
 lisheries last named, Michigan City and NewBullalo 
 especially, fn^m whence they are sent packed in ice 
 to the diftcrent towns in Michigan; also to Lafayette 
 and Indianapolis, Indiana, to Louisville, Kentucky, 
 to Cincinnati, and also to Chicago, where they are 
 repacked in ice, and some of them find their way to 
 St. Louis, Cairo, etc. From St. Joseph and Grand 
 Haven there are large (quantities sent fresh to Chi- 
 cago and Milwaukee, where they are repacked in 
 
 ice. 
 
 At a fair estimate for the few small fisheries on 
 this coast from which we have no return, together 
 with those on the west coast of Lake Michi|[an, they 
 are worth at least $60,000, but we have no data by 
 which to form an estimate of the proportion packed. 
 
 The number of men employed, and the consequent 
 expense, varies according to the method employed. 
 With seines the occupation is very laborious, and 
 requires a much stronger force than pound nets. 
 One set of hands can manage a number of the latter. 
 Some of the fisheries on Detroit and St. Clair rivers 
 use seines altogether, to draw which, horse-power is 
 brought into requisition in some cases. A double 
 27^ 
 
m- 
 
 388 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 rf* 
 
 
 set of men are employed, working alternately day 
 and night, and the exposure is a most disagree- 
 able feature of the business, particularly in bad 
 weather. The great bulk of the aggregate catch 
 continues to be taken with seines or gill nets, but 
 pound (or trap) nets are on the increase. They have 
 been in use below Lake Huron more or less for the 
 past four or five years, but it is only about two 
 years since their introduction in the upper lakes. 
 With these nets 100 barrels of white-fish have been 
 taken at a single haul. Of course their general use 
 must produce a material diminution in the supply. 
 
 As regards capital invested, there is in particular 
 instances a wide difference. George Clark, Esq., 
 nine miles below Detroit, has $12,000 invested in 
 his grounds, owing mostly to the cost of removing 
 obstructions. But this is an exception. 
 
 The barrels for packing constitute no inconsider- 
 able item of this vast and important trade. Their 
 manufacture is a regular branch in Port Huron, but 
 most of them are made by the fishermen when not 
 engaged in their regular vocation. They are made 
 at all the villages and fishing stations on Lake 
 Huron, pine being generally easy of access. The 
 barrels are worth 62J cents each ; half-barrels, 50 
 cents. Over two-thirds of the packages used are 
 
 
Old Mackinaw. ^^K<; 
 
 halves, but our estimated totals of the catch repre- 
 sent wholes. 
 
 Formerly the nets used also to be made almost 
 entirely by the fishermen, who usually procured the 
 twine from Detroit. Latterly, many of them have 
 been brought from Boston already made. 
 
 Salt is another large item. For packing and re- 
 packing, about one- fourth of a barrel is used to each 
 barrel of fish. For the amount packed, therefore, 
 in the fisheries we have described, about 20,000 
 barrels are used. 
 
 Total proceeds of Michigan fisheries $620,000 
 
 Total proceeds of all enumerated 900,000 
 
 Total capital invested 252,000 
 
 Paid for wages 171,000 
 
 Aggregate of barrels salted, say 80,000 bbls. 
 
 Cost of packages 70,000 
 
 Cost of salt 22,000 
 
 The catch at the Sauble and Thunder Bay showed 
 a falling off last season, owing not to the want of 
 fish, but to the unfavorable weather. At these 
 points they congregate only from October to the 
 close, and the weather being very rough last fall, 
 the catch was comparatively light. 
 
 Mackinac has been famous as the greatest fishing 
 
 point on the lakes. Gill nets are mostly in vogue. 
 
 The work in that locality is mostly done by half- 
 33* 
 
 u 
 
390 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ft'.r 
 
 breeds, in the employ of the merchants, the latter 
 furnishes the salt, and paying them in trade, of 
 which the outfit generally constitutes a part. But 
 vvith the late general depression, prices declined 
 some thirty or forty per cent., and consequently the 
 business, previously quite lucrative, lost its attrac- 
 tion for the time being. The merchants advanced the 
 means in summer, and could not realize until the 
 ensuing year. Small holders were obliged to sell, 
 some of the time by forcing the market, and this 
 added to the difficulty experienced by large holders 
 in obtaining returns. 
 
 Much has been said in reference to the coal fields 
 of Michigan, and within the past two or three years, 
 explorations, with a view of developing these depo- 
 sits, have been conducted in different portions of 
 the State. There is no longer any doubt of the exist- 
 ence of a valuable field of coal in central Michigan. 
 There have been openings at diflerent points in the 
 State ; at Jackson and Sandstone, in Jackson county ; 
 at Owasso and Corunna in Shiawassee county; at 
 Flint in Genesee county, and at Lansing, coal has 
 been found deposited in veins of from twenty inches 
 to four feet in thickness. Most of the openings 
 have been upon veins outcropping at the surface of 
 the ground, and there has been little difficulty in 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 391 
 
 procuring samples of coal from these veins in many 
 localities in the State. These deposits of coal found 
 at, and near the surface, are producing coal in 
 limited quantities in different localities, but no 
 works have been prosecuted with a view to supply- 
 ing any but a limited local demand. From the sur- 
 face evidences of a coal field on the line of the De- 
 troit and Milwaukee Road near Owasso, and from 
 explorations and developments already made, some 
 specimens of the coal having been produced and 
 shipped to Detroit, it has been determined to prose- 
 cute the work at that point. 
 
 In Jackson county, however, the matter of mining 
 has become an enterprise of some magnitude, and 
 we are enabled to give some facts and figures which 
 exhibit in some measure the importance to the State 
 of this new branch of industry. There are several 
 "workings" of coal in the vicinity of Jackson, and 
 several companies have been formed for the purpose 
 of mining coal. Considerable coal has been mined and 
 sold from these different workings and mines. The 
 principal mine, and one which in all its arrange- 
 ments and provisions is equal to any mine in the 
 country, is that of the Detroit and Jackson Coal and 
 Mining Company. The works of this Company are 
 at Woodviile station on the line of the Michigan 
 
ciu'. 
 
 392 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 Central Railroad, about three and a half miles west 
 of Jackson city. 
 
 The mine is situated on the north side of the 
 Railroad and about half a mile from the main track. 
 The Coal Company have built a side track from the 
 Central Road to the mouth of their shaft. The 
 shaft from which the coal is taken is ninety feet 
 deep, and at the bottom passes through a vein of 
 coal about four feet in thickness. This vein has 
 been opened in different directions for several hun- 
 dred feet from the shaft, and with a tram-road 
 through the different entries the coal is reached and 
 brought from the rooms to the shaft, and then lifted 
 by steam to the surface. This coal has been trans- 
 ported to different points in the State and is rapidly 
 coming into use for all ordinary purposes, taking 
 the place of many of the Ohio coals and at a re- 
 duced cost. The mine to which reference is made is 
 within four hours' ride of Detroit, on the Central 
 Road, and a visit of two hours (which can be ac- 
 complished any day, by taking the morning train, 
 leaving the city at 9 45 and returning so as to reach 
 here at half past six in the evening,) will repay any 
 one for the trouble. The station is called Wood- 
 ville, and is only three and a half miles west of 
 Jackson. 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 393 
 
 Michigan, hitherto a heavy importer of salt, is in 
 a fair way not only to have amply sufficient for her 
 own wants, but something perhaps to spare. To aid 
 in developing our saline resources, the Legislature 
 wisely provided a bounty upon the production, 
 which has already brought forth good fruits. At 
 Grand Rapids,, salt water has been discovered 
 much stronger than that of tht Syracuse springs, 
 requiring only twenty -nine gallons to produce a 
 bushel. — Arrangements liave been almost perfected 
 for commencing the manufacture upon a very exten- 
 sive scale. 
 
 At Saginaw, within a few days, at the depth of 620 
 feet, copious volumes of brine were revealed. This 
 is also stronger than any in New York. From some 
 cause, it is sought to keep this information a secret, 
 but it is fair to presume it would soon have leaked 
 out. The salt both at Grand Rapids and Saginaw, 
 is a beautiful article, of great purity. 
 
 When Nature formed the Grand River and Sagi- 
 naw valleys, she seems to have been engaged in an 
 animated contest with herself. The developments 
 are such as to warrant the conviction that other and 
 perhaps equally valuable salt springs lie hidden in 
 the intervening space between those valleys. These 
 and other discoveries plainly indicate that the em- 
 
it-'' 
 
 394 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ployment of a large amount of capital in develop- 
 ing the latent resources of Michigan would amply 
 " pay." 
 
 The inexhaustible plaster beds of Grand Rapids 
 constitute one of the prime sources of prosperity of 
 that enterprising metropolis of the Grand River 
 Delta. Our whole State has also a great interest in 
 the trade, the material being, it is admitted, a better 
 fertilizer than the imported article. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Desirableness of a trip to the Lakes — Routes of travel — In- 
 teresting localities — Scenery— Southern coast — Portage Lake 
 — Dr. Houghton — Ontonagon — Apostles' Islands — Return 
 trip^Points of interest — St. Mary's River — Lake St. George 
 — Point de Tour — Lake Michigan — Points of interest — 
 Chicago. 
 
 A trip to the northern lakes, for variety and 
 beauty of scenery to such as are seeking enjoyment 
 and pleasure, possesses advantages over every other 
 route of travel in the United States, and with the ex- 
 ception of the works of art and the classical associa- 
 tions of the old world, is unsurpassed by any on the 
 globe. To such as are in quest of health, no compari- 
 son can be instituted, as it has been demonstrated that 
 the Northwest, especially in the region of the lakes, 
 possesses the most invigorating climate in the world. 
 A reference to the mortuary tables removes all doubt 
 on this point. In the town of Marquette, on Lake 
 Superior, containing a population of over three 
 thousand, there were during the last year but eight 
 
 (395) 
 
 
 I 
 
Old Mackinaw, 
 
 396 
 
 ,,t d 
 
 [fr' 
 
 deaths, ond only a portion of that number was from 
 disease. 
 
 Our object in this chapter is to notice the various 
 routes of travel to the interesting localities in the 
 Northwest. During the summer months the most 
 pleasant mode of conveyance is by water. The 
 Hudson Eiver boats, compared with which no inland 
 steamers are superior, leave, every day, the foot of 
 Courtland street for Albany. By taking passage on 
 an evening boat, after a quiet night's rest the traveler 
 will find himself at Albany the next morning, where 
 he can take the cars for Buffalo, at which point he 
 will be able to take a steamer for Detroit. From 
 thence he can take a steamer for Superior City, pas- 
 sing through Lakes St. Clair and Huron, and up the 
 Saut St. Mary to Lake Superior. On the route 
 from the Saut he will pass the following points, 
 Point Iroquois, White -Fish Point, Point Au Sable, 
 Pictured Eocks, Grand Island, Marquette, Manitou 
 Island, Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, 
 Ontonagon, La Point, Bayfield and Point De Tour. 
 The usual time occupied in passing over this route 
 is about twenty-four hours. In leaving the Saut 
 above the Rapids the steamer enters Lequamenon, 
 passing Iroquois Point fifteen miles distant on the 
 southern shore, while Gros Cap, on the Canada shore, 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 397 
 
 can be seen about four miles distant. The porphyry 
 hills, of iich this point is composed, rise to a height 
 of seven hundred feet above the lake, and present a 
 grand appearance. North of Gros Cap is Gou- 
 lais Bay, and in the distance a bold headland named 
 Goulais Point can be seen. Indeed the whole north 
 shore presents a scene of wild grandeur. Near the 
 middle of Lequamenon Bay is Paris ien Island which 
 belongs to Canada ; opposite to this island on the north 
 is seen Croulee Point, an interesting locality in the 
 vicinity of which are numerous islands. Still further 
 on the steamer passes Mamainse Point, another bold 
 headland once the seat of the works of the Quebec 
 Copper Mining Company, but now abandoned in con- 
 sequence of their unproductiveness ; some fifteen or 
 twenty miles further north, is located the Montreal 
 Company's copper mine. The traveler has uow 
 fairly entered the fast mineral region of Lake Super- 
 ior, and passes along a coast hundreds of miles in 
 extent, " abounding in geological phenomena, varied 
 mineral wealth, agates, cornelian, jasper, opal, and 
 other precious stones, with its rivers, bays, estuaries, 
 islands, presque isles, peninsulas, capes, pictured 
 rocks, transparent waters, leaping cascades, and bold 
 highlands, lined with pure veins of quartz, spar and 
 amethystine crystals, full to repletion with mineral 
 34 
 
398 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 m 
 
 » 
 
 riches, reflecting in gorgeous majesty tbo sun's bright 
 rays, and the moon's mellow blush ; overtopped with 
 ever verdant groves of fir, cedar, and mountain ash, 
 while the back ground is filled up with moutain upon 
 mountain, until, rising in majesty to the clouds, dis- 
 tance loses their inequality resting against the clear 
 vault of Heaven." 
 
 On the southern shore, beyond White Fish Point, 
 immense sand hills can be seen rising from four hun- 
 dred to one thousand feet in height. After passing 
 Pictured Eocks, which we have elsewhere described, 
 the steamer approaches Grand Island, the shores of 
 which present a magnificent appearance. This 
 island is about one hundred twenty -five miles from 
 the Saut and is about ten miles long and five wide. It 
 is wild and romantic. The cliffs of sandstone bro- 
 ken iiito by the waves form picturesque caverns, 
 pillars, and arches of great dimensions. Forty-five 
 miles further is the town of Marquette one of the 
 most flourishing places on the borders of the lake, 
 and the entrepot of the vast mineral wealth in that 
 region. Near this place are the Carp and Dead 
 rivers, both which have rapids and falls of great 
 beauty. Sailing in a northwestern direction the 
 steamer passes Standards Kock, a solitary and dan- 
 gerous projection, rising out of the lake at the en- 
 
 iV': 
 
Old M;*' kinnw. 
 
 399 
 
 trance of K<;wcc .w Ba; At tlio head of this buy 
 stands the harb^v of I/Anso a short distance from 
 which arc located a iloinua Catliolic and Methodist 
 mission house and ehiirch, l)oth of which, on oacih 
 sides of the bay where tliey are located, are sur- 
 rounded by Indian tribes and settlements. 
 
 Passing along, the steamer (inters Portage Fjake 
 an extensive and beautiful sheet of water extending 
 nearly the entire breadth of the peninsula of Ke- 
 weenaw Point, which is a large extent of land jut- 
 ting out into Lake Superior, from ten to twenty 
 miles wide and sixty in length. This whole section 
 abounds in silver and copper ores. After passing 
 Manitou Island, Copper Harbor, one of the best on 
 the lake is reached. At this place there is a flourish- 
 ing village. The next points are Agate Harbor, 
 Eagle Harbor, and Eagle River Harbor. It was at 
 this point that the lamented Dr. Houghton was 
 drowned in October 1845. He was the State Geo- 
 logist of Michigan, and while coming down from a 
 portage to Copper Harbor, with his four Indian com- 
 panions du voyage, the boat was swamped in a storm 
 about a mile and a half from Eagle River. Two of 
 the voyageurs were saved by being thrown by the 
 waves upon the rocks ten feet above the usual level 
 of the waters. 
 
k 
 
 400 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 ill i 
 
 I H 
 
 iy 
 
 The next point, threo hundred and ihirtygix miles 
 from the Saut, is Ontonagon Hituated at the mouth 
 of a river of the same name. A flourishing town is 
 located here having several churches. In its vicinity 
 are the Minnesota, Norwich, National, Rockl; iid, and 
 several other copper mines of great productiveness ; 
 silver is also found intermixed with the copper ore, 
 whicli abounds in great masses. La Point, four hun- 
 drcd and ten miles from the Saut and eighty-three 
 from Superior City, which is next reached, is situated 
 on Madeline Island, one of the group of the Twelve 
 Apostles. It was settled at an early day by tlie 
 Jesuit Missionaries and the American Fur Traders. 
 The population is mixed, consisting of Indians, 
 French, Canadians and Americans. It has long been 
 the favorite resort of the " red man" as well as the 
 "pale face," and possesses a historic interest to 
 travelers. The adjacent islands of the Twelve Apos- 
 tles grouped together a short distance from the main 
 land, present during the summer months a most 
 lovely and beautiful appearance. Cliffs from one to 
 two hundred feet, may be seen rising above the wa- 
 ters, crowned with the richest foliage. Passing Ray • 
 field, a village on the mainland, and Ashland, a set- 
 tlement at the head of Chag-wamegon Bay, and the 
 Maskeg and Montreal Rivers, the steamer, after round- 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 401 
 
 ing Point do Toxir, cntorH Kon dn Lac, n nohlo buy 
 at the head of I^ako Superior, twenty miles in width 
 and filty miles in length, on the shore of which stands 
 Superior City, near the mouth of St. Louis Uiver. 
 ^'his is a flourishing place, possessing great com- 
 mercial importance, and wliich, at no distant day, 
 must be conntMitcd with the mouth of the Columbia 
 Kiver and I'uget Sound. On the return trip coast- 
 ing along the northwest, the steamer passes numer- 
 ous points of interest. At the extreme west end of 
 Lake Superior, seven miles northwest from Superior 
 City, stands the village of Portland. Along the shore 
 northward are bold sandy blufts and highlands which 
 are supposed to be rich in mineral wealth. Encamp- 
 ment, the name of a river, island, and village, is a 
 romantic spot. Immense clift'a of greenstone are to 
 be seen rising from two hundred to three hundred 
 feet above the water's edge ; northward along the 
 shore porphyry abounds in great quantity. This 
 point is noted for the singular agitation of the mag- 
 netic needle. Hiawatha, Grand Portage, Pigeon 
 Bay, Pie Island, Thunder Cape, and Thunder Bay, 
 surrounded by grand scenery; Isle Royale, Fort 
 William, a strong post of the Hudson Bay Company. 
 Black Bay, Nepigon Bay, on the extreme north 
 of the lake. St. Ignace Island, State Islands, Pic 
 34* 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 402 
 
 
 m 
 
 Island Michipicoten Island, formely the seat of Lake 
 Superior Silver Mining Company of Canada. Mon- 
 treal Island, Carabon Island and other points of in- 
 terest. 
 
 Re-entering the Saut the steamer shapes her 
 course for Mackinaw. The Garden River settlement, 
 an Indian village ten miles below the Saut, is on the 
 Canada shore. A mission church and several 
 dwellings occupied by Chippewa Indians may be 
 found here. The St. Mary's River presents the 
 finest scenery. A traveler in describing it says, 
 " There is a delicious freshness in the countless ever- 
 green islands that dot the river in every direction 
 from the Falls to Lake Huron." The next point is 
 Church's Landing on Sugar Island, opposite to which 
 is Squirrel Island belonging to the Canadians. Lake 
 George twenty miles below the Saut is an expansion 
 of the River which at this point is five miles wide. 
 The steamer soon enters the Nebish Rapids, after 
 passing Lake George, and the main land of Canada, 
 stretching out to the north in a dreary wilderness, is 
 lost sight of. Sugar Island which is a large body of 
 fertile land belonging to the United States, near the 
 head of St. Joseph's Island is next reached, and then 
 in succession, Nebish Island, Mud Lake, another ex- 
 pansion of the river. Lime Island, Carltonville, St. 
 
 11- 
 
 Fit 
 
Old Mackinaw. 
 
 403 
 
 
 Joseph's Island, a large and fertilebody of land belong- 
 ing to Canada, once the site of a fort ; Drummond Is- 
 land, belonging to the United States, and Point De 
 Tour, at the mouth of the river, the site of a light- 
 house and settlement. The other points of interest 
 are Round Island, Bois Blanc, at the head of Lakes 
 Huron and Mackinac, all of which we have else- 
 where described. At east the steamer enters 
 the Straits of Mackinaw, and the site of the old 
 fort and town heave in view. These straits are from 
 four to twenty miles in width-, and extend east and 
 west about twenty miles. 
 
 Lake Michigan now spreads out its beautiful sheet 
 of water, second in size to Superior, and invites the 
 traveler to sail along its shores and among its 
 islands. The points of interest are. La Gros Cap, a 
 picturesque headland; Garden and Hog Islands, 
 Great and Little Beaver Islands, Fox Island, on the 
 west of which is the entrance to Green Bay, and on 
 the east the entrance to Grand Traverse Bay, the 
 Great or north Manitou, and the Little or south 
 Manitou Islands, Kewawnee, Two Rivers, Manitoulin 
 and Sheboygan, Port Washington, Milwaukee, Ra- 
 cine, Waukegan and other places of minor import- 
 ance. After passing the localities on the western 
 shore, at length Chicago is seen in the distance, 
 
1 
 
 i-> 'I 
 
 404 
 
 Old Mackinaw. 
 
 stretching along for miles and presenting a fine ap- 
 pearance. From this point the traveler can return 
 to New York, by way of Detroit, through Canada on 
 the railroad, or he may if he chooses take a southern 
 route. Such are the facilities for travel that the 
 tourist will be at no loss during the entire season in 
 finding excellent steamers and good accommodations. 
 Steamers of the first class leave Cleveland on Mon- 
 days, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays of each week, 
 for Lake Superior, touching at the various ports on 
 the route. Persons in the West or South, who may 
 desire to visit the lakes can thus be at any time 
 accotn'Modated. 
 
 Should the tourist prefer taking another route 
 from Buffalo, instead of passing over Lake Erie and 
 up the Detroit Eiver, he can go direct to CoUing- 
 wood at the foot of Georgian Bay, and from thence 
 can take steamer for Saut St. Mary, Chicago or any 
 other point he may desire in the Northwest. 
 
 THE BND. 
 
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