LAiarj/Ann CB eima (Decoratii^cArt QoueMiofL^ ST^ltLlNG ANDFRANQNE CLAIUC ART INSTITUTE LIBRART c SLii-abztk ^V oodbuzn Sooki on (3iaxdE.n, \^axm CJ cHoms. - BooknoLL ^aim JlofiewdL, J^. 2-. 0S525 ♦ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute Library http://archive.org/details/mrsleachsfancywoOOIeac r.\aC •fO— iA.s.^. IjEjloh:.'s CONTENTS:— PRACTICAL LESSONS IN Art Needlework, Crewel Work, Embi oidery, Macrame Work, Crochet, Knitting, Antimacassar Braid and its use, Bazaars, and what to make for them. Bead Work, Braid Work, Crystoleum Painting, Fancy Stitches, Home Decorations, Kells Embroidery, Mirror Painting, Presents for Gentlemen, Smocking, Terra Cotta Painting, Netting, and Miscellaneous Articles. "VOL- 1. LONDON: R. a CARTWRIGHT, 8, JOHNSON'S COURT, FLEET STREET, E.C ^lAT^ [be London : W. I. RICHARDSON, Pbinter, 4 AND 5, Great Qoeen Strbet, Lincoln's Inn Fields, W.C. (^ INDEX.— Vol. 1. Antimacassar Braid and its use 30 Art Needlework ... 195, 219 Bazaars, and what to ttiake for them 136 Bead Work 160, 196 Braid Work 30 Crystoleum Painting '... 221 Fancy Stitches for orna- menting TJnderlinen... 103 Home Decorations at a small expense 35 Kells Embroidery 215 Mirror Painting 115 Presents for Gentlemen 55 Smocking 217 Terra Cotta Painting ... 157 CREWEL WORK. Antimacassars 4 Brush and Comb Bags 10 Cap, Smoking 4 Crewel Work for Beginners... 5 Cushions 4 D'Ojleys 14 First Steps in Crewel Work. . . 3 Fringing and Knotting 5 Night Dress Bag 4 Mantel Valance 11 Slippers 4 Smoking Cap 4 EMBROIDERY. Anglo-Indian Embroidery ... 200 Creeve Embroidery 148 Embroidery Stitches 5 Mountmelliok Embroidery ... 75 Oleograph Embroidery 4 MACRAME WORK. Brackets, Fringes, &c. ... 198, 223 First Steps in Maerame 135, 153, 156 Serviette Ring ... 225 NETTING. Curtains ... 32 Cloud ... 32 D'Oyleys .. 13 Fire Screen ... 201 First Steps in Netting , To Darn Shawl Page 32 32 32 KNITTING. And how to set about it ... 15 Antimacassars 34, 76, 77, 102, 119, 120, 141, 142, 163, 228 Arrow Pattern 119 Balls, Wool ... 167 Bassinette Cover ... 22 Bean Pattern 143 Bed Rest for Invalids 166 Bodice, Infanta' 11 „ Ladies' 227 Boots, Infants', 28, 33, 48, 49, 73, 74, 83, 99, 124 Bramble Pattern 104 Brioche Stitch 11 Canadian Gloves or Mittens 34 Cap for Jersey Suit 53 Cape for Ladies 44, 95 Cape, Hat and Muff in loops, 4 years 64 Carriage Wrap 26 Chain Stitch 7 Chantilly Lace Pattern ... 118 Chest Comforter 26 „ Protector, 1 year ... 81 Chevron Lace 164 „ Pattern 164 Cloud 163 Cockleshell Border 65 Collars for Boys or Girls 163,201 Combinations, 2 year.s 25 „ 3 years 121 „ 8 years 120 Coral Pattern 78 Cuffs, Beaded, Ladies' 12,67 „ and Gauntlets, Girls' ... 28 „ Gentlemen's 57 „ Ladies' 78 ,, Loop Knitting 125 Curtains, 163, 179, 203, 205, 230 Daisy Stitch 105 Diamond Pattern ... 22, 166 „ with open Trellis... 203 Dish Cloth 125 Double Coraline Pattern ... 77 „ Knitting 106 Dress, Infants' ... ,,, ,., 144 Page Dress, 9 to 18 months 79 „ 3 years 122 „ 5 years 44,228 „ for Boys of 6 years ... 146 Edgings, 17, 18, 23, 77, 78, 102, 106> 108, 125, 126, 127, 128, 147,166, 167, 179, 230. „ Diamond 106 „ Grape 77 „ Lattice 77 „ Queen's 77 ,, Raised Leaf 165 Egg Cosy 177 Fascinator, Creeve 162 Feather Pattern 75 Feet Warmer 204 Fichu, Ladies' 107 First Steps in Knitting ... 6 Gaiters, Infants' 33,204 „ Ladies' 82 Gate Pattern 143 Gauntlet for little Girls ... 28 Gloves, Aborgeldie 58 ,, Canadian ... 34 „ Infants' 47 „ Ladies' 21 „ Silk 22 „ 12 months 72 Glove Toilet, Child's 206 Gothic Pattern 75 Grecian Net Pattern 76 Hat for Baby Boys 50 Heels for Stockings 17 Hearthrug 79 Helmet, Crimean 167 Hemstitch, Open 7 Herringbone Pattern 119 Honeycomb Pattern ... 104,143 Hoods, Children's, 14, 50, 101, 102, 178 Hoods, Women's 67 Jackets, Infants' 25, 73, 145, 201 „ Garden, 2 to 3 years 97 „ 6 years 97 ,, Lattice Pattern, 1 to 2 years 201 Jersey, Ladies' ... 13, 81, 175 „ 2 years 101 „ 3 years ... 102 „ Suit 52 Kilt Plait Pattern 166 Page Knee Cape 22, 125 Lattice Edging 77 Leaf and Trellis Pattern 34, 205 Loop Knitting 11 Mat 79 Mittens in Rabbit Wool ... 58 Muff in Loop Knitting, 2 to 4 years 11 Mufflers 57 Nightdress Case 66 Nun's Pattern 228 Oat Pattern 22 Open Hem Stitch 7 Petticoats, Children's, 34, 71, 84, 96, 123, 161, 162 „ Ladies', 12, 74, 84, 95, 96 Pheasant's Eye Pattern ... 73 Pincushion Cover 145 „ for Drawing Room 205 Porcupine Stitch 206 Pudding Cloth 166 Queen'sLace 77 QuiltTatterns, 17, 63, 116, 140, 143, 177 Rain Pattern ... 144 Raised Leaf Pattern ... 117 „ Plait Pattern .. ... 142 „ Rib Pattern ... 120 Reins, Russian 72, 144 Respirator ... 125 Kidge Pattern ... 202 Rose Leaf Pattern 75 Rug, Carriage ... 79 ScaUop Shell Pattern ... ... 143 Scarf for Schoolboy ... 26 „ Wrap for Child ... ... 26 Seesaw Cap ... 204 Shawl and Scarf Patterns, 26, 44, 65, 77, 78, 104, 108, 118, 14.3, 163, 175, 178, 179, 205, 206, 22S Sleeping Wrap 26 Slippers, Night 101 Socks, 2 to 3 years 10 I, Open Diamond Pattern 82 „ Open Knitting in ... 75 „ Gentlemen's ... ...29,60 „ Infants' 82,100 „ Night 100 Sofa Blanket, Cable Pattern 31 Spider Web 76 Star Pattern 165 I N D KX — contimied. stays for Infants Page 43 Stockings, and how to shape them 15 „ Bicycling ... 58 , Creeve 68 3 Divided Foot 100 J Infants' 8, 46 J Shaped Knee, 10 years .. 7 to ... 63 ) Silk 68 J Openwork ... 75, 76 , 3 J years 53 >» 5 years 82 J) 8 to 10 years 82 Strawberry Pattern ... 78 Tansy Pattern 78 Tea Cosy 176 Teapot Holder 177 Three Diamond Pattern 117 Toes for Stockings 17 Toilet Covers 17 TreUis Pattern 205 Tulip Pattern 230 Undervests, Infants', 11, 46, 72, 80, 101 „ 3 years 204 „ 7 years 80 „ Ladies' 29, 67,80 „ Gentlemen's 57 Vandyke Pattern 76 Viennoise Pattern 203 Work Bag or Peet Warmer.. 204 Wrap Muffler, Ladies' ... 146 CROCHET. Antimacassars, 23, 45, 63. 88, 89, 90, 112, 153, 182, i84, 186 Bag for Bathing Dress 172 Ball Holder 231 Basket Pattern in Triooter ... 23 ,, Babies', Trimming for 46 Bib, Infants' 181 Bodice in Tricot, 2 to 4 years 70 Bonnet for 4 years ... ... 85 „ Beaded 23 „ Ladies' Travelling ... 212 Boots, Infants',. 49, 51, 74, 171, 182 Cap, Bicycle 182 Capes 54, 66, 213 „ Fan Stitch 109 „ Point Neige 18 Case for Crochet Needle ... 232 Chemise Trimmings 24 Cloak, Infants', in Point Neige 25, 49 Collar and Cuflts for little boys, 24, 151, 170, ISO, 181, 209 Collarette, Ladies' 93,232 Couvrette 23,87,128 Cover for Bassinette 62 Crossover 23 Cross Treble Stitch 23 Cushion in Point Neige ... 31 Diamond Pattern 90 Dotted Tricoter Ill D'Oyleys 62, 92 Dress, Cape and Hat in Tricot for 1 year 47 Page Dress, Double Crochet ... 149 „ Point Neige ...64,69,109 „ Ridge Treble 9,72 „ Kussian Crochet, 1 year 85 ,, Tricot, 4 years 167 „ 5 years 44 „ 9 to 18 months 79 Edgings, 12, 24, 61, 90, 91, 92, 93, 113, 114, 174, 188,233 „ Mignardise 30, 61, 62, 92 Egg Cosy, Easter 173 „ Strawberry 138 Fascinators 29, 231 First Steps in Crochet 7 Fringe Trimming 171 Geometrical Pattern 89 Gimp Trimming 92 Gloves for Gentlemen 58 Hat for Baby Boys 50 Head Flannel 33 Hearthrug 82 Hoods, Children's, 19, 50, 54, 71, 110, 132, 212 Infants' Shawl 33 Ice Wool Squares 27 Imitation of Needlework ... 24 Insertions, Crochet and Mig- nardise 61, 188, 189 Jacket, Ladies' 20 „ Infants', 48, 49, 109, 110, 131,133,151,169,190,232 Jam Pot Cover 133 Jersey Suit 53 Kettle Holder 191 Kilted Suit in Tricoter ... 54 Lace for Dresses, &c 183 Lace Trimming for Child's Dress 216 Loop Crochet 20 Mats 23, 93, 154 „ Beaded 230 Muff in Loops 20 Muifle, Ladies' 211 Paletot, 4 to 5 years 45 Panels for Dresses, &c. ... 129 Pelisse in Point Neige, 2 to 4 years, 11 Pence Bag 138 „ Hat 138 „ Jug 192 Penwiper Candlestick 137 „ Dahlia 137 Perambulator Cover 88 Petticoat, Daisy Pattern, 2 years 70 „ Infants' and Children's, 11,34,51,71,83,84,86, 131, 149, 150, 179, 211 „ Ladies', 13, 19, 67, 85, 86, 130, 169, 210 „ Wave Pattern, for Infant 11 Pinafore, Openwork, 6 to 18 months 68 Pincushion Star 185 j Point Neige 8 Page Purse, Beaded 9.3 Quilts ... 64, 88, 152, 188, 207, 208 Eibbed Crochet 7 Puff for the Neck, Loop Crochet 20 Kugs 92 Shamrock and Leaf pattern 232 Shawl Stitches 27,132 „ in Honey Crochet ... 87 „ for Infants 28, 33, 87 Shell Stitch 8 Slippers ... 25, 69, 154, 181, 232 Star Antimacassar.,. 89, 187, 188 Stays for 1 to 2 years 133 String Bag 231 Sunflower Antimacassar ... 89 Tam O'Shanter, Boys' or Girls' 52 „ Gents' ... 59 „ Baby Boys' 148, 170, 180 Tea Cosy 93 Teapot Holder 191 „ Stand 191 Toilet Tidy 213 Tricot 8 „ Basket 22 „ Knot Stitch 169 XJnderdress for Child 51 Washing Hand 172 Watchguard, Beaded 59 MISCELLANEOUS. Antimacassars 33 „ Fern Splashing 158 Ball Fringe 13 Badge for Sailor Tunic 198 Basket, Babies', Trimming for 40 Bassinette Pillow Case 159 Bazaar Articles 137 Bed Pocket in Braid 30 Blotting Pad 37 Bolster for Chair 55 Boot or Shoe Bag 199 Box for Nursery, &c 41 Brush Holder 36 Caps for Knitting Needles ... 222 Chair Back, Canvas 191 Chair or Bed Pocket 36 Christmas Cards, to utilise ... 200 Couvrette for Baby 41 Coverlids, Pretty ... 41 Crazy Patchwork 42 Cretonne Work 135 Cross Stitch, German 135 Cuifs ,, 57 Daisy Fringe .. . ,.. 93 Decoration for the little ones 43 Egg Cosies 40 Fan Bed Pocket 139 Fern Splashing 158 „ Work 31 Footstool. 38 Fringing and Knotting 5 Fur, Imitation 8,20 Pas '■ 94 13d 222 200 36 57 Garters for Boys or Girls German Cross-stitch Work Glove Box Hairpin Lace Hair Tidy Handkerchief Case Hearthrugs, Home-made, 23, 34, 42, 79 Honeycomb Darning 135 Housewives 60 Knitted Moss 40 Mats, Dinner or Table 138 ,, Floor 23,33 „ Toilet .. 30 New Patchwork 137 Newspaper Hack 56 Nightdress Sachet 158 Nursery Quilts 41 Oriental Work 135 Paperweight 66 Patchwork 42 „ Crazy 42 New 137 „ Useful 199 Penwipers 56 Pincushions, Arum 139 „ Braid Work ... 30 „ Cracker 139 „ Daisy 222 „ Drawing Eoom... 158 „ Japanese Screen 139 „ Tennis Racket ... 192 Postage Stamp Case 138 Pursebag for Work 38 Quilt in Lace and Satin ... 18 Receptacle for Tennis Balls... 221 Remnants of the Ragbag ... 135 Rugs and Mats 23 Scrap Bag -.,. 160 Screen, Japanese Palm Leaf 199 Serviette Rings. ... 138, 192, 224 Shirt Box 55 Slipper Bag ... 56 Smoking Cap 57 Soiled Clothes Receptacle ... 41 Stove Ornament ... ... 158 String Bag 56 Spectacle Cleaners 137 Table Cover in Cross-stitch ... 37 Tea Cosy 39,40 Tennis Balls, Receptacle for 221 Tobacco Pouch 56 Toilet Cushion 36 Trinket Box 55 Wall Baskets 39 „ Pocket 159 Waste-paper Basket 38 Watchguards in Braid ... 59 Watch-hooks 30 30 192 Watch-pockets Work-bags Work - basket room Work Case . Writing Case . . 38 for Drawing- 38, 39 201, 223 ... 159 rtiiviu za.i ■I. Xt.X±\iJJ ■U.LTAJL J.V>XI. A PROFITABLE AND PLEASANT EMPLOYMENT TOR LADIES. No. 27. For description see page 4. No. 28. For description see page 4. No. 1. Published by R. S. CARTWRIGHT, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.G. And may be had of all Newsagents in the United Kingdom. ALWAYS IN PRINT. 1 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. lilST OF FANCT WOBK. Designs kept in Stock and sent post free. No. 1. Fairy Antimacassar in Zulu cloth, fringed, knotted and prepared for working, 1/6. No. 2. Dolphin Antimacassar on new Zulu ' cloth, fringed and ready for working, 1/6. No. 3. Night Dress Bag, made in Zulu cloth, and ready tor working, 1/9. Toilet Set, seven pieces, on Zulu cloth, to match brush and comb bag, 1/9. No. 4. Slippers on best black cloth, 2/2. No. 5. Smoking Cap on best black cloth, 2/6. Nos. 9 and 10. Antimacassars. — The same prices and materials as No. 1 and 2. No. 11. Slipper Pattern.— Traced on black cloth, 2/2. No. 12. Toilet Set, traced on Zulu cloth, fringed, ' No. 14. Gold rish in Globe Antimacassar. — Traced for working on cream Zulu cloth, 1/6. No. 21. Lady's Night Dress Bag, cut out in Zulu cloth and traced, 1/-. No. 25. Toilet Set of seven pieces, traced for braiding on white marsala, 9d. NOTICE. — Any article may be Md with the work commenced for One Shilling evtra. We may add that the articles are supplied in tlio full sizes in every case ; that the materials are of superior quality, and free postage is included in the above prices. All inquiries must contain a stamped addressed envelope. All articles sent post free. Address, Mrs. Clara Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London, S.E. CLEARANCE SALE of FAHCY WORK, Greatly reduced in price, post free. Tea Cosies, traced for outlining, on best black cloth, 2/3 and 2/11. Some choice designs in Cosies for crewel work, groups of flowers, traced on black cloth, 2/3. Cushion Covers, traced with groups of flowers, on best black cloth, 2/6 ; black satin, 3/3. Brush and Comb Bags, composed of cream Zulu cloth, traced on both sides with designs of field flowers, lOd. each. Floral Toilet Sets, consisting of 7 pieces, traced on cream Zulu cloth, 1/-. Brackets, traced on good quaUty claret colour cloth, with groups of wild flower?. The bracket and suflicient cloth for covering the board, 1/11. Mantel Valances, traced on best quality Koman satin, in a rich cardinal shade, for outlining, 2 yards long, 4/- each. Mantel Valances, traced for crewel work, in best quality cloth, in navy blue, olive green, and claret, 2J yards long, 3/-. 2 Five o'clock Tea Cloths for sale, traced with groups of field flowers at each corner, on best quality black cloth, 1 yard square, 4/6 each. Address, Mrs. Clara Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London, S.E. Girls' Corset Bands. — This excellent little corset-band will be found one of the finest makes ever invented for girls from five to nine years, both for support and shape. At the same time they are not injurious to the figure. The most delicate child could wear them. They are fitted with shoulder-straps and elastic back-support, and may be obtained in scarlet only, fast free, for 2,s. L. Lady's Knitted Petticoat. Wave Pattern. Specially Designed. Allow 34 stitches for each pattern. It is more convenient to knit the petticoat in 2 or 3 strips and join them carefully afterwards. 1st row. — Slip the 1st stitch, take 2 together, knit 2 plain, take 2 together, 4 plain,* wool forward, knit 4 plain, repeat from * three times, making 4 increasings in all ; take 2 together, knit 2 plain, take 2 together, knit one plain. This completes one scallop, and exactly takes the 34 stitches, and you should have 34 on the needle, because, although you decrease 4 times, you increase 4 times also by bringing the wool forward. T6 proceed — for the second scallop * I plain, take 2 together, 2 plain, take 2 together, 4 plain,* wool forward, 4 plain, repeat from * 3 times, making 4 times in all ; now take 2 together, knit 2 plain, take 2 together, knit I plain. This completes the second scallop. Repeat from the 1st * in the second scallop across the width. 2nd row. — Purl back. 3rd row. — Like the first. Repeat these 2 rows all along. Each scallop is about 5 inches wide, if firmly worked, depending of course upon the working and kind of wool and size of needle used. When about 4 inches are worked you can knit 10 plain rows, and afterwards put the bars of plain knitting about 3 inches apart. If liked, a bar of plain knitting can be knitted at the bottom of the petticoat before commencing the pattern. In the bar of plain knitting you should be able to count five ribs on the right side of the work. Every row of pattern is like the 1st row, and alternate rows are purled as stated above. When it is time to narrow you must work a row in this manner. As we said, you have 34 stitches to each scallop, so to enable you to arrange the decreasings easily, do the scallop this way : — *knit i, take 2 together, knit 1 1 plain, wool forward, knit 4 plain, wool over or forward, knit 11 plain, take 2 together, knit I, repeat from *. Purl the next row as usual. In the next row you can narrow by taking together the 5th and 6th stitches of the 1 1 plain on each side of the scallop. You thus decrease the size of the wave. You decrease in this way on each side of the wave every 14th or 15th round, for two or three times. As the wave gets smaller, put fewer rows between the narrowings. There is, however, as I have remarked in the instructions for the crochet petticoat, no plan so good as working from a nice paper pattern. If liked, the front gore only need be shaped and the back ones plain breadths, or, instead of this, the top could be shaped by knitting the last 10 or 12 inches of each breadth in ribs of 2 plain, 2 purl, or the last 10 or 12 inches of the petticoat could be worked in plain knitting, and that would be very easy to shape. I believe the ribs of 2 and 2 or I and i (i.e. I plain and i purl stitch) are much used just now. Of course they cause the petticoat to cling to the shape of the hips, and do away with a good deal of trouble in narrowing. The petticoat can either be set into a band, or a row of holes crocheted, or a band made by working plain for an inch or two on the lop of the petticoat with a pair of rather fine steel needles — say No. 14. A small crochet scallop can be put round the bottom, but it is not necessary. Materials : — The wool used should be good petticoat yarn, or there is a make of petticoat nngernig, which can be obtained at all Berlin wool shops and fancy repositories. It is not quite so thick as Berlin wool, and is said to be very even and nice to work. The price is according to colour, 5 J;,»' Lady's Crochet Petticoat. Materials — about J or i lb. of petticoat fin- gering or petticoat wool, and hook to suit the wool so as to work the wool firmly. Make a chain the length of the width of the petticoat and then count it so that it can be divided by 31. Unite it into a round, ist round — 2 chain, miss a loop, * one long double into the next loop. Repeat from * until you have 13 long double following one another. Now put 3 long double into the next loop, • I long double into the next loop to that. Repeat from * until you have 13 as before. Miss two loops, and repeat from the first * in the " first round " until the round is completed. Work always into the two back loops. 2nd round and all succeeding rounds until you begin to narrow — same as the first. Proceed in this manner until about one third of the entire depth of the petticoat is worked. To narrow — take 2 stitches together and crotchet them into one, in the middle of each side of each scallop, so that in the next round instead of having 13 stitches on each side of the centre 3, you have only 12, thus decreasing 2 stitches to each scallop. * Do 1 1 rounds without decreasing, nar- row as shown above in the I2th round, repeat from*. You now begin to work backward and forward to make the placket-hole. 'Do 7 rows without narrowing, narrow as before in the Sth row, repeat from*. *Do 4 rows without narrow- ing, narrow in the 5th as before, repeat from*. Crochet a row of treble, and finish by crocheting a row of holes to run a string through. Do them in this way. * i treble into a loop, I chain, miss a loop, i treble into the next loop, repeat from*. Crochet an edge round the placket-hole to make it neat and firm, and make a good scallop round the bottom of the petticoat. The following is a good one. 1st round. Take the bordering colour of wool and work long double all round the petticoat, putting the stitches between the stitches in the previous row to make the border quite firm. 2nd round, i simple ordinary double crochet between two of the long double in the previous row. * Miss 3 lorips or long double stitches, and work a long treble between the 3rd and 4th long double stitches from where you put the double crochet. Now miss three loops again and work a simple ordinary double crochet be- tween the 3rd and 4th long double stitches in the previous row, repeat from*. A long double is made thus, — *wool over the needle, put the needle into a loop and draw the wool through. You have now 3 loops on the needle. Draw the wool through all three at once and repeat from*. A long treble, thus, — wool twice over the needle put the needle into a hole, draw the wool through. You have now 4 loops. Draw the wool through 2 loops, then through 2 again, and finally through the last 2. Arrange the scallops so that one comes at the point of the large scallop of the petticoat, and do not have the border full in the bend of the scallop, or it will not look well. One or two general remarks, — always remember please that the last asterisk is always referred to when we say "Repeat from*" unless expressly stated otherwise. I have detailed the narrowings, but as ladies work so differently, and the required sizes are so various, / always recommend working by a good pattern cut for the special individual that the garment is intended for, in preference to working from detailed stitches and narrowings, as it is so uncertain in the latter case whether the garment will fit. As to colours — The model is in coral and white in stripes. For more useful combinations grey and scarlet, crimson and grey, blue and grey, and scarlet and white. The latter is very effective, but not quite so delicate as the coral ; ali scarlet is very useful. It should be remembered that all crocheted or knitted woollen articles stretch downwards in wearing, and decrease a little in width, so that they may be made slightly shorter and wider than they are really needed. Wool Balls for Ball Fringe, &c. Cdt out two rounds of cardboard the size of a two-shilling-piece. Now cut a hole in the middle of each just one-third of the width across the whole circle ; that is to say, that if your whole circle is three-quarters of an inch across, your little hole must be quarter of an inch across, and so on in proportion according to the size of the circle you have cut. Now thread a large needle wJth one or two strands of wool. Place the two pieces of card together, and wind the wool evenly round them, just as children's balls are made. When the hole is tightly filled up, take a sharp penknife or pair of scissors and cut the wool at the outer edge down to the cardboard, slip the point of the knife or scissors in between the two pieces of cardboard and cut the wool evenly all round. Now take some fine strong string or carpet thread, and tie the wool firmly between the two cards. Tear out the card. Take the scissors and trim the ball into a nice round shape, and it should present the appear- ance of a fluffy wool ball. The balls can be attached by sewing them on wool, or a small chain can be made ready and tied in when the ball is tied round, or after the string is tied a piece of wool can be tied round and the ends left hanging so as to attach the ball to anything that is needed. You must be a little guided by the sort of fringe, and a little " practice will soon make perfect." Netted d'Oyleys. A Very Pretty Way, If you wisfi anything very pretty and out of the common in d'oyleys, a netted border will please you. The following is a most elegant pattern, and is very durable, the model having been in use some time, and being as good as new yet, to all appear- ance. Materials : — netting needles of cwo sizes, large, and small ; crochet cotton also of two sizes, No. 8 or 10 and 16 or 20 ; and three meshes, one about the size of No. 12 or 13 knitting needles, the 2nd about as large as No. 9 knitting pin, and the 3rd about f of an inch across. Knitting needles serve as well as anything else, and all the materials and tools are very inexpensive. Prepare the d'oyleys by cutting to the shape desired, either oval or round, and neatly hem round. They are of diaper usually. Pin your work before oegin- ning to net, to a heavy cushion or your knee. A cushion is best, as it obviates the need for stooping so much. First round — thread a darning needle with the finer cotton and work over the smallest mesh at about an eighth of an inch apart. After the first round use the small netting needle. 2nd round — net into every hole in the first round. 3rd round — net into each hole in the 2nd round. 4th round — take the coarse cotton and the medium mesh and work into the Ist hole,* work into the next hole and repeat from * to the end of the round. Jth round — take the large mesh and still use the coarse cotton, work over the large mesh through two loops at once of the previous round. 6th round — work over the large mesh into every loop of the previous round. 7th round — take the medium mesh but still use the coarse cotton, work into the first stitch,* twice into the next, once into the next, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Sth round — take the fine cotton and small mesh and work once into every loop. 9th round — the same. loth round — take the coarse cotton and medium mesh and work into every other loop. Fasten off, make neat knots throughout, and if you wish it fuller, put more loops. Netting is very easy to learn. The best way is to get an experienced worker to show you. If wanted very smart for anything, a ribbon could be run through the large holes and they could be tied up to fit round a tin or jar or cake, &c., and it could then be placed on a glass dish, &c. , on another d'oyley ; or, if liked, two borders could be worked with a little management on to the same centre, and one could be tied up and the other flat. This would be unique and effective. The loops of one border could be worked round the centre between those of the other. Nearly all these things are matters of taste and opinion, and a Uttle judicious colouring greatly improves the table at supper and " high tea " or tea-dinner, as we English call it, LADY'S KNITTED JERSEY. Front — cast on 220 stitches, decreasing 2 stitches at 20th row, and ccrtinue until length required to top of armhole ; then Decrease each row up to the neck. For the back— cast on 200 stitches and repeat same as above, unless made to button, in which case knit the back in two parts, allo«-ing the button side rather wider. For the sleeve — cast on stitches to the size of armhole ; decrease 2 after 6th row ; continue the same to elbow : then decrease 2 each row to length of arm. No. 14 needles will do for either Scotch yam or Berlm wool. The jersey is joined together under the arms and on the shoulders after each part is com- pleted. LADIES' ALPACA APRONS, fine quality, >:;ii tree, IS. %d. and IS. Mrs. Clara Lkach, 37, New Kent Road, S.E. ■Npel''-' THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Baby's Hood. Very Warm for Winter. Materials : — ij of white single berlin wool and i an ounce of pale blue, or pink. No. 8 or g bone pins. A loose knitter should always use needles a size finer than a tight knitter. You will also need 2 yards of ribbon to match the colour of the wool, and a piece of lining silk about 6 inches deep. Cast on 72 stitches, mo- derately loosely. 1st row : — * wool forward, slip i take 2 together. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row : — this and every row for the present is like the first row. The stitch is simple brioche, and comes in ridges, each ridge formed by a set of 3 stitches. When you have worked J an inch, take the coloured wool and knit a plain row. Knit the next 3 rows after this plain row like the first row of the hood. Now break ofi' the coloured wool and fasten off the end, take up the white wool again, knit I plain row, and then work on in the usual way, repeating the first row, until you have worked 6 inches in depth. You must now begin to make the crown. To do this : — ist row of crown : — knit 15 ridges, or 45 stitches, then bring wool forward, slip l, take iAree together. 2nd row of crown : — knit 7 ridges, or 21 stitches, then, wool forward, slip I, take i/iree together. Repeat the 2nd row, until you have worked off all the stitches from the sides, and have only 24 left on the needles. Now cast oS" these 24 care- fully. To make the curtain : — hold the wrong side of the coloured stripe to you, and miss 10 loops, take up 87 stitches, and leave 10 loops at the other end. ist row of curtain : — purl or seam every stitch. 2nd row : — knit plain. 3rd row : — slip I, wool forward, take 2 together *knit I, wool forward, take 2 together, and re- peat from * to the end of the row. 4th row : — knit plain. Sth row : — * wool forward, slip I, take 2 together, and repeat from * exactly as you made the body of the hood. Proceed in this way until you can measure to an inch from the row of holes at the beginning of the curtain. Now hold the wrong side of the coloured stripe which you made at the beginning of the hood towards you, take up the coloured wool and knit a plain . row. Knit the next 3 rows in the brioche stitch as usual. This will give you a stripe of coloured wool, like you had at the beginning of the hood, but the right side of this stripe should come to the wrong side of the one done at the beginning of the hood. Now take up the while wool, knit i plain row. Now knit for another inch in the brioche stitch, and then cast off. Cast off very evenly. For the border : — take rather a small crochet hook, hold the rig/ii side of the curtain towards you, take the coloured wool, and make a slip-stitch into the first loop of the curtain, * I chain, miss a loop, work 4 treble into the next loop, I chain, miss a loop, slip-stitch into the next loop. Repeat from * all round the curtain. You must arrange a scallop at each corner of the curtain, putting as many treble in the corner scallops as are needed to make them lie flat. You must now make the border round the front of the hood in the same manner, holding the right side of the coloured stripe in the front towards you. For the loop trimming take a pair of steel needles about No. 1 2. Cast on 4 stitches ; no w put the right hand needle into the first loop as if you were going to knit it, * hold it in position with the left hand, then with the right hand wind the wool round the needle and I or 2 fingers 3 times, now bring the wool round the needle only, the fourth time, and knit in the usual way. Now put the needle into the next loop. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row : — knit plaia, carefully taking up all 4 of the loops that lie to each stitch : pull the work tight and in good form when you have knitted the plain row. Repeat thise 2 rows until you have a piece long enough 1 to reach from the top of the hood to the middle of the curtain at the back. This trims half the hood. Make another piece exactly like the one already done. For the feather make a small piece of trir/jming about 5 inches long. Now take your o-.-ioured wool and crochet-hook, and crochet a ti^jle into the first loop of the foundation of the loop knitting, * make 4 chain loosely, miss I loop of the founda- tion I treble into the next loop.. Repeat from * down each side of your loop knitting. If you happen to have it by you, finer wool can be used for the trimming. The colour should just show outside the white loops all down each side of the work. To make up : — turn back the loose piece in front which you left when you were making the curtain, and pin or baste it in position. It form's a roll round the face. Take the lace and sew it inside the front of the hood. It should be a little full, and should project about | of an inch beyond the wool edge. Then take the piece oi lining silk and run it neatly over the edge of the lace inside. Fold the two ends of the lining silk together at the crown, and run the two sides together, drawing them up a little to shape the crown tio the head. The sewing should not show. Now turn in the edges of the silk round the curtain at the neck, and catch the silk in position with £i few invisible stitches. Now place the trimming, putting the two ends where you left off the trimming at the top of the hood, and letting them meet at the back of the curtain. Next place the feather towards the left side, fixing it by means of a few stitches. Now take the ribbon and make a snug little bow, something of a rosette shape, for the top of the hood, run ribbon into the holes at the neck, and draw it up a little, and either make or tie a bow at the back of the neck. Finish by adding strings. You will need about 30 inches for the strings, 10 or 12 for the top bow, and the remainder will do for the jieck. Crochet stitches. For those who do not know the names of the crochet stitches, here are instructions. Slip-stitch : have a loop on the needle, put the needle into a hole, draw the wool through the hole and the loop on the needle at the same time. Double crochet : have a loop on the needle, put the needle into a hole, draw the wool through the hole, then draw the wool through the remaining 2 loops. Treble : have a loop on the needle, draw the wool through the hole. This gives you 3 loops on the needle. Draw the wool through 2 loops, then through the remaining 2. I have gone a good deal into detail in the fore- going instructions, as I have found from long experience that o:.e great reason why so few ladies care to work from written instructions is, that frequently some simple detail is left unexplained, and the omission renders the whole article vague and unsatisfactory. Those given above are written exactly as the hood was worked and put together by an experienced worker. Do not therefore try to remember all the directions at once ; but by doing the work in the order given, and following th, instructions as they come you will find that the whole thing is perfectly easy. This hood is the first size. The second size can be made by using needles a size coarser. For a girl or lady cast on a few more stitches, and trim with swansdown instead of the loop trimming, if preferred. Warm Slippers in Point de Neige. Materials : — ■20Z. of double berlin wool, and crochet needle No. 6. Make 10 chain, work 3 shells on them for the ist row. 2nd row : — (of course you have cut off the wool), make 3 shells over the first 3. 3rd row : — repeat the 2nd row. Go on making rows of 3 shells, till you have done 16 I'ows. At the end of the last row make 5 loose chain, and join them to the chain you made to work the first row on. These are to go across the instep ; see that you do not twist your work. Join the chain carefully with wool-needle or hook. Now work 9 shells across the two ends and the chain in the middle. 2nd row : — take the first 2 shells together as one, then work on in the usual way till you have only 2 shells left. Take those last 2 together as one. You have thus 7 shells in the 2nd row. 3rd row : — plain, without either increase or decrease on the 7 shells. 4th row : — decrease again by taking the first 2 shells and the last 2 together. There will be 5 in this row. 5th row : — plain on | shells. 6th row : — reduce as you did before to 3 shells. This finishes the shoe. For the border, I double crochet in the centre hole of a shell, * 1 chain, I double in the next centre hole, repeat from * ; work this round rather tightly. 2nd round : — I double crochet over a double crochet, * make 3 chain, miss i of the chain just made and take up the other 2 by drawing a loop of wool through each of them. This give you 3 loops on the needle. Take a fourth loop through the next double crochet. Draw the wool through all four, make I chain to keep them firm, and make I double crochet in the next loop. Repeat from * all round. The model was made in pink wool and fitted a No. 4 cork sole. In sewing to the sole pin the middle of the heel and toe in positioQ, and arrange the crochet so that from the toe to the instep it is pretty easy, and from the instep to the heel it is rather tight. This is to make the work fit over the heel. This is a very pretty soft slipper, and with lambswool soles could be used to sleep in. It is very warm and pleasant for anyone just getting up, either ordinarily in the morning or after an illness. The pair can be made in two hours. The Gusset Heel. To turn a gusset heel. Knit to what was the seamstitch and i stitch beyond it. Now take 2 together, knit I. We omitted to say that, when possible, you should begin the heel in a plain row, not a purled one. 2nd row of heel gusset — turn, slip the 1st stitch, taking it on the needle as if for purling, purl 4, take 2 together, purl 1. 3rd row — slip I, knit 5, take 2 together, knit I. 4th row — slip I as for purlii'g, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl I. 5th row — slip i, knit 7, take 2 together, knit I. 6th row — slip i as for purling, purl 8, take two together, purl i. 7th row — slip I, knit 9, take 2 together, knit I. Sth row — slip I as for purling, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl I. Proceed in this manner until all the stitches are worked off. Dutch Heel. A Dutch heel does not give so muc': room in the instep, therefore it should only be adopted by those who wish a low instep to their stocking. To turn an ordinary Dutch heel : — Kr.'k to the sears- stitch, or rather to the stitch which was the seam- stitch, and 4 beyond it. "i'ake 2 together. 2nd row — turn, slip the Ist stitch as for purling, pari 9, take 2 together. 3rd row — slip I, knit 9, take 2 together. 4th row — slip I as for putting, purl 9, take 2 together. S'l' 1^°^ — slip i, knit 9, take 2 together. 6th row — slip I, taking it on the needle as for purling, purl 9, purl 2 together. Proceed in this manner, repeating the plain and purl rows, until the stitches are worked off. In smaller stockings the straight piece must not be so broad. To make a heel for a child's stocking with 5 plain stitches down the centre instead of 9 as above, do as follows : — Knit to what was the seam and 2 stitches beyond. Take 2 together. 2nd row — turn, slip the Ist stitch as for purling, purl 5, take 2 together. 3rd row — turn, slip I, knit 5, take 2 together. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until your heel is finished. Both the above are very superior to the common heel. Common Heel. Knit until the straight piece of the heel is the length desired, cast off, and then sew up. This cannot be recommended, as it is clumsy. These three heels are, we believe, those most generally used. 14 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Very Handsome Anti-Macassar. Materials — either single cr double Berlin wool, according to taste, sz-d crochet needle to suit the size of the wool Colour — pale blue and pale salmon colour are stmelirjes used as a pretty contrast. How to proceed — make a piece of tri- coter 2 or 2j inches square if of single Berlin, or if of double wool you had better make it a little larger, say 3 inches. When you have made a number of squares of one colour, make the same number of the other colour. Now sew them to- gether, first a blue, then a salmon-coloured one alternately, until your anti-macassaris large enough. Put either a border or a fringe. For the border put a row of holes made by one d®uble crochet* I chain, miss a loop, one double crochet into the next loop, repeat from *. 2nd row — one double crochet, into a double crochet, * 2 chain, miss 2 holes, I treble into the next hole, 2 chain i treble into the same hole, 2 chain, miss 2 holes, i double crochet into the last double crochet of the 2nd hole. Repeat from *. 3rd row— double crochet into a double crochet, 3 chain I treble into the centre hole of the scallop, *I chain I treble into the same hole, repeat from* until you have four treble in the centre hole, 3 chain i double croctet into the next double crochet. This completes one scallop ; repeat from *. This is a good scallop, but as the wotk of different people varies, try an inch or two to see if it lies flat. If it is too full or not full enough adapt it to your work. Pay particular attention when coming to the corners, so as to get them flat, and a proper scallop to each corner. When coming to the corners either spread the scallops out or draw them a little closer together lo get the corners right. In our next number will be found a variety of pretty crochet edgings. Also many patterns have been given in different. numbers of Mrs. Leach's Family Dressmaker and the Children's Dressmaker. If preferred you can fringe the edge. A fringe is considered to look handsomest, but it is rather more trouble to some. Knot 2 or 3 strands of the two colours combined into the holes. For anyone who has time and does not mind a little trouble a daisy fringe made of the two colours would look ex- tremely well. In that case the holes could be omitted, and the fringe sewn on the body of the anti-macassar. Scraps of wool can be used up in these anti-macassars. Rich and Useful Sofa Blanket. Materials — double black Berlin wool and moderate-sized crochet needle, about No. 2 or 3. You will require a large quantity of black wool, from a pound to a pound and a half, or even more. A small quantity of maize will be wanted to border the black stripes and just join them, and a few wools of different colours to embroider a design upon each stripe. The best plan will be to make the black stripes, then embroider each stripe, and finally get a small quantity of the maize to join. You fringe the ends, and put a small scallop of a very close description up the sides. To begin — make a chain about 7 inches long or longer if you wish. Work backward and forward in tri- coter until the stripe is as long as you wish the blanket to be ; then break off the wool. Do a second stripe in the same way, and go on till you have as many stripes as will be needed to make your blanket the requisite width. Now obtain a suitable design, either floral or geometrical, and embroider the stripes with the design in suitable colours. Next make a row of I double crochet into a loop, * i chain, miss a loop, I double crochet into the next loop, and repeat from '* down the sides of the stripes where they are to be joined. This should be done in the maize. Then sew or crochet the stripes together, and finish with an extra row of border down the side and fringe at the ends. Of course, other colours can be used for the foundation stripes and for the joining, and the names of the various designs for embroidery are simply legion. The colours given above are thesame as in the model from which these 1 jstructions were taken, and the embroidery wasaconventional design of trailing sprays up the length of the stripe, the stalks executed in brown in two shades, the leaves in two or three shades of the usual subdued greens. The flowers were white. The whole was worked in a large stitch quickly done. Gentleman's Waistcoat. Materials. — Double Berlin wool or fleecy of the same thickness, as double Berlin, and long tricoter hook No. 6. Colour, black, brown, or heather. — Tricoter is fully explained on page 8 of this book. It is easy to learn. It is the stitch in which you have all the loops on the needle, and then draw through 2 loops at a time until all are off. — It will take about f of a pound of wool, more or less according to the size. To proceed — measure the width at the bottom of one front of the waiscoat, and make a chain a little longer than the measure. You may reckon about four stitches to an inch. When you have found the right width, work backward and forward until you have done a piece sufficiently long for one front. Now make the other front in the same manner. When both are done you can have the waiscoat made up in the usual manner. The work must be cut carefully and then it should not wait before being sewn. With these precautions it can be prevented from running down. The waistcoat is very warm and will be much appreciated. It would be as well to make buttonholes as you work the buttonhole side, but they can be made after- wards if you prefer them done after the crochet is finished. Another Way. Use the same materials as above, and work to a tailor's pattern of the right size. To make it very warm, work the back as well to a pattern and sew together under the arms and on the shoulders.— These waistcoats are very warm and comfortable for winter wear, and the labour expended on therri is well repaid by the result. Hearthrug in Cloth and Knitting, very WARM. The three principal requisites, or indeed I might say the two principal requisites, for doing the above are patience and strong fingers ; but I must add that suitable materials and good taste are also very necessary to get a satisfactory result. Materials — A quantity of pieces of cloth about 3 inches long, and about J an inch wide. Coarse steel knitting needles and strong even twine. The needles must match the twine. No. 11 or 12 will do. The hearthrug is worked in strips which are sewn together afterwards. Put sealing-wax knobs on your needles. Cast on as many stitches as you think you can comfortably manage to knit, from 20 to 30 or even more if you like. 1st row plain. — 2nd row. — Slip I, * take a piece of cloth and put it between the needles, now knit a stitch, put the end of cloth which is near you again between the needles. You now have both ends of the cloth on the side away from you ; knit I stitch and re- peat from * to the end of the row. Repeat these 2 rows till your stripe is long enough. Be careful to keep the ends even, and your knitting must be pretty tight or it will not keep the cloth in its posi- tion. If you find it is not tight enough, use a pair of finer needles. The pieces of cloth can be a little shorter if preferred. 2 J or even 24 inches is considered long enough by many ladies. A quantity of black or very dark cloth cut up, and kept for the border round is a great improvement. A black border and a black centre pattern and the rest of the cloth arranged hap-hazard is much liked by some and is said to look very pretty. Stripes of different colours, the whole bordered with black, would be effective. Netted Frills for Ornamenting Potted Meat, Pots of Shrimps, &c. The most tiresome thing about these frills is the " getting up " after washing. They should be starched in ve.'Vj stiff, ^0/ starch, and before they are dry should be run on to a round stick or large round ruler, well crushed together on the ruler, and arranged evenly and then allowed to dry in a warm place. Supposing they are too dry before being put upon the ruler, they must be steamed or other- wise damped, and then dried. They look ex- iremely pretty when done. If only a simple single full frill is used, it should be starched very stiffly and pulled out while damp, before the fire, so that it may dry during the process 01 pulling out, and stand up welL ^Vhen not in use they should be put away in a box that the stiffness may be preserved as long as possible. Directions for making a very pretty netted d'oyley will be found on another page. The centre could be cut the size of the pot required. In those in- structions it details how to net two bor lers to one d'oyley. The only difference you need make would be to increase every 6th or 8th stitch in the first row, then in the third row increase again. Go on increasing every other row until yon have the border as full as you like, always keeping the increasings over those in the previous row. The second method can be used for either the ham or round a pot. No. 8 crochet cotton is very good to use, as it takes the starch better than knitting cotton, and has naturally more substance. A No. 9 knitting needle and a flat mesh nearly half an inch across are nice sizes to use. Reckon about 1 5 stitches of the small mesh to about 3 inches o{ work, so you can easily calculate how many stitches you need altogether. When your foundation is all ready net 2 rows with the fine mesh. Now take the large mesh. - 1st row. — Plain, increasing by netting 2 stitches into I every 8th stitch. Pre- suming you are acquainted with all the various netting stitches, you now proceed to woik in Eng- lish or fancy netting until your strip is about %\ or 4 inches wide. It will take probably two complete patterns of the fancy netting, but you can leave ofl any time when your work is wide enough. Now work I plain row, decreasing by netting every 8th and gth stitch together as one stitch. You should now have the same number as you had before taking the large mesh. Take the small mesh and net 2 plain rows with it as at the beginning. Now cut the last row of the foundation and take your work oft". Thread a string down the middle of your work and tie it to the stirrup or tape. Now still work with the small mesh, and net a plain row, taking a stitch from each side of the strip you have netted, and working through the 2 stitches as if they were i stitch, thus making the frill double. Be careful always to join the opposite stitches ; that is, work through the 3rd stitch on one side and the 3rd stitch on the other side together, and so on through the whole length. Work a second row with the small mesh, work it simply into the row just done. 3rd row — plain, but increase every 5th stitch. 4th row, increase every 6th stitch. 5th row, increase every 7th stitch. Now take the large mesh and work a pattern of fancy English netting. Finish by working one or two plain rows. You must get them up as directed at the beginning before you can use them. A little practice mil soon make it quite easy. This is a fresh shape, and when well made and got up thej' are an ornament to any table, whilst they will never become common. They can be fixed in various ways. The top frill alone can be sewn on to a band of linen, or the frill as detailed can be held in position by being tacked to a linen band, or theband just simply pinned or sewn round the pot outside the frill, but the newest and prettiest and easiest way is to thread some suitable ribbon just under the frill and then you can tie it round anjthing j'ou like. The round part of the frill stands up and the lower part spreads over the plate or dish which holds the meats. The ham frill can be threaded -nith tape and a bow put to finish off the end. The ham frill should be about 24 or 27 inches long so as to wind round the shank several times. In the next issue of the Fancy Work-Basket directions for netting will be given. fe^ Nos. 2 and 3 of The Fancy Work Basket contain illustrations and descriptions for knitting 15 useful articles for ladies and children, crochet work, &c. A Charming Present for a Fond Mother . PATEfiT FOLOING BASSlt^ETTES & BASKET one of BASSINETTE Packed for the INDIAN POST Weighing Gills. d. 6 6 6 THE Pi^snt Foldin? -BABY BASKET These Bassinettes and Baskets have been awarded medals, diplomas of honour and prizes at the Great Exhibitions of Vienna, Philadelphia, Paris, IHanchester, and the Alexandra Palace, for their comfort, convenience, safety and beauty, over all other Bassinettes exhibited, and are especially adapted for families travelling. s. The Patent Bassinette, prettily trimmed with Chintz ._ from 42 ,, „ ,, prettily trimmed with Muslin Lace, &C. .. ,, 52 The Patent Baskets, prettily trimmed to match .. .. .. ' ,i 18 Best French Wicker Bassinette, prettily trimmed with Chintz ., „ 15 „ „ „ Baskets, prettily trimmed with Chintz.. Fllll Particulars and Illustrated Price Lists of tin Sole Patentee and Manufacturer, Bradl y Barnard, 107, St. Paul's Rd., Highbury, London WH E LPTON'S P! LLS Are one of those rare Medicines wliich, for their extraordinary properties, have gained an almost UNIVERSAL REPUTATION. During a period of Fifty years they have been used 1^^^ most extensively as a Family Medicine, thousands ^-r/"**,^^ having found them a simple and safe remedy, and «£^^^;^ one needful to be always kept at hand. These Pills 3 are purely Vegetable, being entirely free from Mercury or any oilier Mineral, and those who may not hitherto have proved^ their trade: MftRK tREClSTERI efficacy will do well to give them a trial. Recommended for disorders of the Head, Chest, Bowels. Ltver, and Kidxeys ; also in Rheumatism, Ulcers, Sores, and all Skin Diseases— these Pills being a direct Purifier of the Blood. In Boxes, pricff 7|d., Is. ip., and Ss. 9d., hy G. WHELPTON & SON, 3, Crane Court, Fleet Street, London. And sent free to any part of the United Kingdom on receipt of 8, 14, and 33 Stamps. Sold by all Chemists at Home and Abroad. SHIA.'W- So 00. Ye "olde" established Sewing Machine Stores and Steam Kilting Works 299, CAMBERWELIi K.OAD (near the Green). Every description of high-class Sewing Machines. A very large and varied Stock to select from. Weekly Payments of 2/6 Or a Large Discount from the List Price for Prompt Cash. PEEAMBULATOES, ■WASHING and WEINGING MACHINES on same Terms. Kdtinrj done up to tldrty-ei'jht inches deep. ESTABLISHED 1851. T3IRKBECK BANK, Southampton Buildings, Cftanccry Lane. i' THREE per CENT. INTEREST allowed on DEPOSITS, repayable on demand TWO per CENT. INTEREST on CURRENT ACCOUNTS calculated on the minimum monthly balances when not drawn below ;^5o. The Bank undertakes for its customers, free of charge, the custody of Deeds, Writin'^s and other Securities and Valuables ; the collection of Bills of Exchange, Dividends and Coupons ; and the purchase and sale of Stocks, Shares, and Annuitiei.^ Letters of Credit and Circular Notes issued. THE BIRKBECK ALMANACK, with full particulars, po.t free, on application FRANCIS RAVENSCROF'i, Manager. The Eirkbeck Building Society's Annual Receipts exceed Five Millions. TJOWTO PURCHASE A HOUSE FOR TWO GUINEAS J-J- PER MONTH, with immediate possession, and no Rent to pay. Apply at the Office of the Birkbeck Building Society, 29, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane. "OAV TO PURCHASE A PLOT OF LAND FOR FIVE - SHILLINGS PER MONTH, with immediale possession, cither (or Building or Gardening purposes. Apply at the Office of the Birkbeck Freehold Land Society, as above. THE BIRKBECK ALMANACK, with full particulars, on application. FRANCIS RAVENSCROFT, Manager. W. J. HARRIS & CO.'S UNRIVALLED LOCK-STITCH SEWING MACHINES Work by Hand, or Treadle. Only 35/- COMPLETE. G2iara7:ieed Cheapest in the World. Especially adapted for Dressmaking, Tailoring, and all kinds of Famil/ Sewing ; and will be found so simple as to require no instruction beyond the Guide Book, which is given with each Machine. Po not fail to see it. Will he c/ieer/iil/y shown at a7iy of our Depots; or DesigtiS J and Samples oj Work post free. %i '^.<. W.J.HARRIS&CO. jMnnufartuitrs. Ch'ef Office : =ig, OLD KENT ROAD, LONDON. And at 54, Powis Street, Woolwich; 66, London Street, Greenwich ; and 64, Hi eh Road, Lee, S.K. HARTMANN'S HKIENIC WOOD WOOL for LADIES Pronounced by the most Eminent Members of the British JNledical l^rofession to be unequalled and unrivalled of iheir kind for Health and Comfort. 2/ nPT Tln7PTl being thus by far cheaper / jJvjJ. JJUZiCli, than the usual expendi- ture in Washing alone. INDISPEHSABLE TO LADIES TRAVELLING HAKTMANr's Patent Wood Wool, used in all the leading Hospitals throughout the country, which spe.iks better than any testimonials. To be had or ordered of every Ladies Outfitter and Dj-aper ikroughout the world at 2S. per doz. Wholesale Agents : " SMART, BLACK & CO,, 32, LONDON WALL, E.G. Samp'e Packages of i doz. at 2^. 3(^., or 6 doz. at lis 6d., per Parcels Post, from the Sole Consignees ior the United Kingdom and British Colonies, ESSINGEE, & NEUBIIE.&EE, 11, Hatton Garden, London, E.G. Wholesale Depot only. CAUTION.— Beware of Spurious Imitations. None genuine unless each Article is Stamped with Trade Mark. Resist mercenary attempts to reconwiend' or substitute inferior kinds. Patent rights rigidly protected. SAVE MONEY, TIME, LABOUR, AND TEMPER, BY USING BEUCE'S OIL GOOKING/STOVES. "THE HOUSEHOLD FRIEND." The Latest and most Improved Stove to Roast, Bake several articles in oven at once, Boil, Fry, or Steam, and Warm Plates at one time ; will cook a dinner, three courses, for six persons, in three hours — cost TWO- PENCE. Complete with siy pint kett le, six pint saucepan and steamer, fry-pan, meat tray and grid, pTa??"wa?ffi&7=CTOJriiaking-c^JigfS, centre moveable tray, funnel, and pair steel scissori; packed in strong box(\i/hich forms a good stand for stove afterwards). OR/ COMPLETE WITH ALL TTTENSILS OK/ OU/" {COMPETITION DEFIED.) QUI' Bazaar says ; ** Having thoroughly tested it, we have no hesitation in recommending it as trustworthy and well finished, all complete, being only 3SS-, making it a marvel of cheapness, and the BEST STOVE of its Size and Price in the MARKET. Mr. Bruce offers, with great fairness, to change the stove or return the money if not approved of." TJie 0?iiy Firm trading- with such exceptional iervis^ Send for Illustrated Price List, Testimonials, &c., ^ Post Free to any Part of the World. WORKMAN'S ^lEKD One pint of oil to last a week will boil 6o pints of water, or will do all the ordi- nary cooking required tor two persons at the expense of one penny per week. Thousands sold, giving perfect satisfac- tion. With quart Kettle, 2^. I If/., or carriage paid to any address in the kingdom, only 3^. td. 3-pint Saucepan to fit, <^d. ; 3-pint Steamer, ^d. ; 7-in. tin Fry-pan, Ga*. ; best enamelled ditto, ii(/.; price of extra wick, 3c/., to last three months. Carriage for all utensils, td. extra. L. H. BRUCE, 90, BLACKMAN STREET, LONDON, S.E. t^> ■r; A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. | jg.imj | HE great success which our first number of \m ^ the Fancy Work-Basket has met with, |&^,ra]| and the constant inquiries made for the second issue, has induced us to bring the present number out earlier than we first designed, and enlarge it by eight additional pages. We have endeavoured to make this number even more interesting and useful, and as there is little pre- liminary observations to be made, full and complete explanations for every kind of stitch in crewel work, embroidery, crochet and knitting having been given in our first number, we have been enabled to devote almost the whole of the present one to tested direc- tions for pretty and useful articles, and we venture to say that the Fancy Work-Basket will thus form a perfect and ample encyclopjedia for ladies' work, KNITTING, AND HOW TO SET ABOUT IT. Many who are quite able to do the plain knitting stitch are prevented from miking much use of their ability by the want of a few simple rules, the observation of which would enable them to set about their work in a practical manner, and so make many articles which would add materially to the comfort of their families. Few children will object to woollen stockings if they are softly knitted, and given to them at the beginning of the severely pinching frost of winter, and they soon become so accustomed to them as to prefer them to any others. Gentlemen are the same ; and it is becoming much more general for ladies to wear stockings of their own knitting; and woollen hose are so highly recommended by medical men, that anyone thinking upon the subject will come to the conclusion that the gradually spreading custom of knitting is only a wise return to another of "our grandmothers' fashions," many of which have been lately revived. Ivnitting is an e.\tremely pleasant as well as useful art. Numbers of people, from practice, can read to advantage whilst they knit. To invalids and elderly ladies it is a very soothing occupation, and possesses several advantages over other kinds of work. For instance, it can easily be done in a reclining position, and is veiy soft to the fingers, so that the poor weak hands (sometimes not strong enough to sew) can amuse themselves with large pins and a ball of soft wool, thus whiling away many an otherwise weary hour. Another inestimable advantage is that it requires little eyesight ; and here let me add a word of caution to those whose eyesigtit is still good. Take care of your eyes ; do not strain them with fine work by gaslight. Save your fine work and bright colours for the daylight, and knit for an hour or two in the evening. You will be astonished to find what a number of pretty warm things you will soon accomplish. To begin, of course the first thing is to decide on what you wish to make, and then on your materials and needles to work with. Great care should be exercised in doing this, as much good work and valuable time are often lost through the unsuitability of the materials chosen, causing the work to turn out unsatisfactorily when done. There are numbers of knitting books, but without abundant leisure it is often difficult to follow the directions given for the making of needlessly fine, and not seldom useless articles. The present work is issued, not for those who have r.nlimited time on their hands, and who can afford to spend hours doing fine work with much counting, but for busy mothers and sisters who wish to have a piece of work on hand to fill up spare moments, and still desire to see something useful or pretty or both in one for their trouble ; and also to try to meet the oft-expressed wish for j easy directions by the following of which even the inexperienced may achieve a good result. In choosing materials several items should be taken into consideration. 1st. Is the ultimate object of the work its appearance or usefulness? 2nd. The age and sex of the intended wearer, if for wear. 3rd. Will the articles require frequent washing? 4th. What sort of workwoman are you ; do you knit tightly or loosely? These are a few of the things to bear in mind, and we can first consider item four. If you knit loosely choose a size finer needles than if you knit tightly. For instance. No. 13 is sometimes given for fingering, but number 14 or even 15 is not at all too fine, if you knit loosely. If your knitting is very fine, of course it looks prettier in the first instance in some things such as stockings, but it is apt to go hard after being washed, and is at no time quite so soft and comfortable to wear as something not quite so fine which perhaps does not look so well in the first instance. As a general rule you may take No. 12 or 13 needles for Alloa yarn, No. 13, 14, or 15 for fingering, and No. 15 or 16 for finer wools, and so on in proportion. No . 9 is a nice medium size of needle for parts of cuffs, babies' shoes, or the knitting of vests with merino or Andalusian wool, and either that size or No. S is very good for brioche stitch, such as babies' hoods, jackets, &c. There is usually a gauge at any wool shop, and the attendants will almost always give you any information in their power as to the size of needles chosen, &c., and if you state what you are wanting the needles for, they can generally mention the usual size sold, which is as a rule a somewhat fine one for the work in question, but the information is a very valuable giiiiie to the uninitated. Before commencing work of any size it is a good plan to work a small piece, so as to be quite sure that you have chosen materials which will suit you. Next as to the washing. Most articles for children do require washing, but of course some less frequently than others. Fingering wool is considered by many authorities to wash better than any other, but (although some makes are really beautifully soft) that is too coarse and harsh for delicate work. Andalusian and merino are nice wools for children's vests, shoes, &c. For the latter, however, some prefer Angola, and others Berlin wool. It is best to go to a large shop (it is no more expensive), and select from amongst the wools suitable to your purpose that which they recommend as wa.shing the best, if you have no experience in the matter. The preference of most people leans towards Andalusian for shoes, and either that or merino for vests, in those cases where Berlin or fingering will not do. Most wools shrink either much or little. We believe good fingering alters least of any kind, but were once told by an old lady, a great knitter, that the higher the price of the wool the more it shrank. How far such a rule is infallible v/e cannot say, but it has decidedly been our own experience to a certain extent. Much, however, may be done by exercising care in the washing. We know many ladies who wash out the little vests, boots, socks, &c., in the bath after the baby has been put to bed, and, wringing them through the towel, pull them into proper shape and dry at once, pulling them out as they dry. The result is much better than sending them to the ordinary wash. Then as to age. Babies of course require very soft wool, even if we have to renew the articles. Little girls can wearsoft fingering, but Ixiys should have stout fingering or Haco yarn. Haco yam makes splendid shooting and bicycling bose, but you should be sure to get the proper make with "Hulton " on the cover. For ladies nothing is better than fingering (Baldwin's 4-ply is a nice soft fine make), but if that is not liked then choice can be made between penelope yarn, merino, Angola, or any other wool which pleases your individual taste, remembering that any of these costs more, takes rather longer to knit, and that there is a little more risk in the washing. For the last item, as to the appearance being the principal object of the work, or its usefulness; if you are making a handsome sofa-blanket or antimacassar, cosy, or fancy article for a bazaar or present, the first consideration is to make it look well, and even for home wear you may make very pretty things with a clear conscience, as a professional cleaner does not charge so very much, and the articles look well a long time when cleaned by the present process. In choosing colours, however, it might be borne in mind that blue is more transient than crimson, and that some shades of yellow are apt to fade. There is no colour makes up so well for antimacassars as double Berlin in shades of crimson and stone or fawn ; but of necessity colours must be chosen to match the room, and the only plan is to make the best selection possible imder the circumstances. It is also better to keep this kind of work in a white cloth, and only get it out when you have half an hour or so to devote to it quietly, asrepeated handling has a tendency to spoil delicate colours. We believe this is as good a place as any to speak of the treatment of wool. All the finer kinds of wool are better wound loosely. This preserves the fluffiness, if we may use the term. The winding loosely can easily be done by putting one or two fingers under the wool as you wind, and as you have occasion to turn the ball, slip out your fingers, and put them in a new place, winding over them again, and so on until the skein is finished. Berlin wool should not be wound at all, and it is quite unnecessary, as a very little care and practice will enable any one to hold the wool over their arm and take a few rounds off as required. By this means the fresh appearance of the wool is preserved. Most practised workers adopt this plan. For the winding of other wools a winder is invaluable. It is hoped that these suggestions may be found of use, but as parting advice let us recommend any who have a "friend who knits" to take an opportunity of consulting her before beginning a new or important piece of work, as verbal instructions practically illustrated are a very valuable adjunct to written directions, however good. HOW TO SHAPE STOCKINGS OF ANY SIZE. Many of you, dear ladies, are deterred from knitting stockings by the difficulty you experience in shapitig them. This difficulty may be quite overcome by remembering and carefully observing a few simple rules which are laid down below. Before giving them, however, we should like to remind you that the success of your work will depend almost as much upon the suitabiUty or otherwise of the materials, for the purpose in hand, as upon youi manner of working. For in- stance, it is an absolute waste of time to knit very fine stockings for growing romping boys, or indeed some girls, whilst it would be cruel to give little babies other than the softest material you can get. The looseness or otherwise does not matter so much, as sometimes the fine knitting is more harsh than the coarse. Fine knitting looks prettier in the first instance, most certainly ; but when it has been washed a few times, it loses all its elasticity 1 and becomes hard and uncomfortable. This fact tHE FANCY WOkK-BASKEt. is frequently the real reason of the remark so often heard, " None of us like wearing knitted things, and the children cannot bear them." It is not a rule which we have ever seen written, but we believe most people would like stockings or other articles if they were knitted tightly on a coarsish size of needles, and such work has a much more regular appearance than loose knitting on fine needles. The first thing in a stocking, as a matter of course, is to set on the right number of stitches. The shape and size of your stocking will entirely depend on the number of stitches, so you cannot be too careful in finding out the correct number. The method of doing this will be given a little further on. We will suppose you have the cor- rect size, and your stitches are cast on properly. Knit a few rows of welts ; then go on knitting plainly round and round until you have knitted two squares, as in figure 3. To measure a square, put the work flat on the table, as in figure i, and fold the needles along the lengthways edge of the stocking, as in figure 2. Thus a square is a Fig. 2. Fig. 3. piece of the length of the stocking equal to the width then on the needles. You will see by this that a square at the top of the stocking will be a much longer piece of knitting than a square at the ankle, where the width on the needles is very much narrower than at the top of the stocking. To narrow for the ankle, you must reduce your stitches to about two-thirds of the number of the top stitches, i.e., the number you first set on. These narrowings must be made at regular intervals. The following rough table may help you. Leave between the decreasings : — For a baby, about 3 or 4 rounds ; for a child under 10, 5 or 6 rounds ; for a lady, 6 or 7 rounds ; for a gentleman, 7 or 8 rounds. For ordinary fingering the smaller of the two numbers of rounds given will generally be found correct. When the ankle is reached you must knit i plain square, measured as before by folding the needles down till they are even with the lengthways edge of the work. You have done a square when the length of plain knitting, without any decreasings, is exactly the same as the width of that on the needles. To divide for the heel — take half the stitches for the instep and half for the heel, and have the seamstitch exactly in the middle of the heel. If at any time the stitches will not divide evenly, take the extra one or two to the heel ; but be careful to have the same number on each side of the seamstitch whilst you are knitting the heel. For all ordinary purposes it is better to work in a second wool to strengthen the heel. The total length of the heel may be about J of the width of the ankle, and in many cases the heel when finished off might measure with advantage the entire width of the ankle. A long heel is considered to make a better shaped foot by many. In knitting the heel, we advise double wool, and in addition you should always slip the first stitch of every row, whether it be plain or purl. In taking up the heel stitches for the foot, you may make every other stitch into two. The stitches across the instep and the stitches you have taken up at the sides will bring your total of stitches up to very nearly as many as you first cast on when you began your stocking. Now, if you like, you can set your stitches by knitting one plain round, and having done that you must narrow every round at the end of the side needles nearest the instep, until you have just the same number of stitches that you had in the ankle. Now knit a square plain. Then narrow for the toe, and when that is finished break off the wool. The result of your work, if you have foUovi'ed the above instruc- tions carefully step by step, will be a very prettily shaped stocking. " There are exceptions to every rule," says an old adage, and a little discretion must be used before following the above directions absolutely to the letter. For instance — if the in- dividual for whom the stocking is to be made has a very plump ankle you must leave the ankle slightly wider than f of the width of the top of the stocking. The width of the ankle will regulate the size of the foot, and we believe that people with plump ankles have plump feet, so that will be all right. Some people narrow every other round in shaping the foot. Whether you do this or narrow every round, depends on the size of instep, but more than all on the heel you have made. A gusset heel gives more room to the instep and you generally have more stitches on the side needles than with other heels ; therefore with a gusset heel it is better to narrow every round. With a Dutch heel you may only need to narrow every other round. We think the gusset heel is gene- rally liked by those who know it, or have worn it. How to find the number of stitches in setting on the stocking: — Knit a small piece about 3 inches wide and ij in depth. Plain and purl it so as to make it look as if it were a piece cut out of a stocking. Now take your yard measure and measure round the leg above the knee, where the garter is worn. The stocking must be a few inches less than the size of the leg. Thus for instance — for a child of 10, suppose the size of leg is lij inches, make the stocking 9 inches. For a lady, size of leg 12 J or 13 inches, make stocking io| inches. For a man, size of leg 15 inches, make stocking 12 inches round the top. Now take your scrap of knitting, which of course must be worked in the wool and with the needles you mean to use for your stocking. From the table above you can soon see how many inches the stocking is to be round. The next thing therefore i; to count how many stitches in the scrap of knitting make one inch in width. If you use 14 needles and ordinary fingering it will perhaps take 8 to make one inch ; but whatever the number it takes for one inch, multiply that number by the number of inches in your stocking, and the result will be the whole number of stitches you must cast on for the stocking. We daresay upon first reading all these directions from the be- ginning, some of our readers may be inclined to say, " .So many directions are confusing, I really cannot be at the trouble of remembering and following them all." Do not, dear reader, tiy to remember them to begin with. Put them into practice, and the remembering will follow more easily than you think ; and do not attempt to follow all the directions at once. It is something like taking up a trouble to-day which we do not really expect to come to us till next week, perhaps. After you have decided to make a stocking, keep the book of instructions near your knitting basket, and only refer to it when you wish to know how to do something. For instance, your first business will be to find out the proper number of stitches. Now, while you are finding the stitches you have nothing at all to do with any other part than the paragraph or portion which tells how to do that. In the same way when you are doing the narrowings, take no trouble about the difficulties in the heel or foot. Thus, by meeting the troubles one by one, as they come and 7iot befere, we can get through stocking knitting, as we can get through many other things, more easily than if we try to do everything at once. We will now take a stocking and work it ac- cording to the rules as a sample. The model stocking before us is both prettily shaped and comfortable to wear. Materials : — Baldwin's black fingering, best quality, 4-ply, and No. 14 knitting needles. If you knit very loosely you must use No. 15 needles. It takes about 5 oz. to knit the stock- ings, but it is better to buy 6 oz., and then you have some over for knitting fresh toes or feet, &c. The first thing after choosing materials is to wind the wool. Even this should be done carefully. Do not wind it too lightly, as you will spoil what " fluffiness " there is in the wool before you knit it. The next thing is to find the number of stitches. The previous paragraphs tell you how to do this exactly. We will suppose the limb measures 12J or 13 inches, then according to the table the stock- ing need only be io| inches round. Now, if we reckon 8 stitches of ordinary knitting to an inch, 10 multiplied by 8 equals 80, and the odd half inch will of course have 4 stitches, so if we add the odd 4 stitches to the So that will make 84 for the whole stocking of io| inches round. Now cast on 84 stitches. That will be 28 stitches on each needle. Knit l| inches of welts, made by knitting 2 plain, 2 purl, round and round. When the welts are finished knit in plain knitting round and round without a seamstitch until you can measure two squares from the beginning of your stocking, including the welts or ribbed part. It is now time to begin to narrow. Make a seamstitch in the middle of one of the needles, knit one plain stitch, then take two together, knit the remainder of the round plain until you are within 3 stitches of the seamstitcli. Take two together and knit the re- maining one plain. Now knit 6 plain rounds. You will find that the 6 plain rounds is the number given in the table. When the 6 rounds are knitted, narrow as before. Knit 5 rounds, then narrow again, and go on in this manner until you have narrowed 14 times. Now knit one square plain on the 56 stitches, when the plain square is finished divide for the heel. There will be 27 for the instep, and 29 for the heel, because you must always have an uneven number for the heel to allow of the seamstitch coming in the middle. Although this is done for facility in counting, you never purl the seamstitch after beginning the heel. About 24 rows will be sufficient in double wool for the straight part of the heel before beginning the gusset. Begin the gusset in the 25th row. Always slip the first stilch of every row, whether plain or purl, when working the heel. There will be about 17 stitches left on the needle when you have finished the gus- set. The total length of the heel at the longest part when it is finished will be about equal to the width of the ankle. Now take up the heel stitches at the sides in the manner I explained in the pre- vious article on shaping a stocking. There will be about 26 stitches on one side and 27 on the other, inclusive of those you had from the gusset. These, with the stitches from the instep, will be 80 ; and as you began with 84, you see that there are nearly as many stitches at the beginning of the foot as there are at the beginning of the stocking, and in many stockings you might arrange exactly the same number of stitches with advantage as you first cast on. When the stitches are arranged, knit a plain round to set them. Now narrow every round at the ends of the side needles nearest the instep, until you have the same number of stitches that you had in the ankle : that will be 56. Knit one square plain. When the square is finished, narrow off the toe and your stocking will be fini- shed. The Norwegian toe is recommended for this stocking. But if you work any other toe you must knit a few more plain rounds in the foot before commencing the narrowing. The size of stocking is medium lady's. We have spoken of various heels, and toes too, but have not detailed them. As most people prefer a choice in everythmg, and as certain shapes fit one person beautifully, and are quite unsuccess- ful if made for another, we propose giving a few directions. By giving them in a general form applicable to any stocking, there will then not be so much need to detail them to every stocking ; and also, what is of more importance almost, any- one who feels doubtful as to her powers, can THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. easily try either a heel or toe from the subjoined instructions, and make herself quite an fail at the work before beginning a whole stocking. The Gusset Heel. This heel is considered to be quite the plea- santest heel to wear by the majority of people. The same plan is adopted in making any sized heel. The detailed heel below is one to suit the sample stocking for ladies. To turn a gusset heel. Knit to what was the seamstitch and I stitch beyond it. Now take 2 together, knit I. I omitted to say that, when possible, you should begin the heel in a plain row, not a purled one. 2nd row of heel gusset — turn, slip the ist stitch, taking it on the needle as if for purling, purl 4, take 2 together, purl i. 3rd row — slip i, knit 5, take 2 together, knit i. 4th row — slip I as for purling, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl I. 5th row — slip I, knit 7, take 2 together, knit 1. 6th row — slip I as for purling, purl 8, take 2 together, purl I. 7th row — slip I, knit 9, take 2 together, knit I. 8th row — slip i as for purling, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl I. Proceed in this manner until all the stitches are worked off. For length of straight part before making the gusset, see below in the " Dutch Heel." Dutch Heel. The straight part of the Dutch heel should be a little longer than that of the gusset. The straight part of the gusset heel should be about two-thirds of the entire length that the heel is wished to be, as the gusset is about one-third of the whole length of the heel when finished. The straight part of the Dutch heel should be about three-quarters of the entire length the heel is intended to be, as the straight piece down the centre of a Dutch heel does not add so much to the length of the heel as the gusset. A Dutch heel does not give so much room in the instep, therefore it should only be adopted by those who wish a low instep to their stocking. To turn an ordinary Dutch heel : — Knit to the seamstitch, or rather to the stitch which was the seamstitch, and 4 beyond it. Take 2 together. 2nd row — turn, slip the first stitch as for purling, purl 9, take 2 together. 3rd row — slip i, knit 9, take 2 together. 4th row — slip I as for purling, purl 9, take 2 together. 5th row — slip i, knit 9, take 2 together. 6th row — slip i, taking in on the needle as for purling, purl 9, purl 2 together. Proceed in this manner, repeating the plain and purl rows, until the stitches are worked off. In smaller stockings the straight piece must not be so broad. To make a heel for a child's stocking with 5 plain stitches down the centre instead of 9 as above, do as follows. Knit to what was the seam and 2 stitches beyond. Take 2 together. 2nd row — turn, slip the 1st stitch as for purling, purl 5, take 2 together. 3rd row — turn, slip I, knit 5, take 2 together, repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until your heel is finished. Both the above are very superior to the common heel. Common Heel. Knit until the straight piece of the heel is the length desired, cast off, and then sew up. This cannot be recommended, as it is clumsy. These three heels are, I believe, those most generally used. We will now proceed to the Narrowing of Toes. There are two methods generally used in Eng- land. One is to narrow at each end of the instep needle, and at the side ends of the other two needles every other round, until there are about 16 stitches, more or less, according to the size of the stocking. You then arrange the stitches on two needles and knit them together, casting off at the same time. In narrowing toes this way you must observe two things: — (i) To have the narrowings exattly at the sides and perfectly even, so that the upper and lower parts of the foot cor- respond. (2) Always leave one plain stitch at the end of every needle when you narrow ; which is to say, that you must always take the 2nd and 3rd stitches together at the beginning of the needle, and at the end of the needle take the last stitch but one and the last stitch but two together, and knit the last stitch plain. (3) You must remember there are no narrowings in the middle of the sole of the foot in this toe, only at the side ends of the sole needles, so as to make the narrowings in the sole correspond exactly to those in the instep. Round Toe, English Style. Divide the stitches exactly into three, beginning your counting from the centre of the sole. Leave one plain stitch at each end of every needle when narrowing. To shape the toe, narrow at the beginning and end of every needle, not forgetting to leave the plain stitch between the narrowings and the ends of the needles. Knit 2 plain rounds. Narrow as before at each end of all three needles. When you have narrowed from 4 to 6 times in this manner with 2 rounds between, leave only I round between the narrowing, and quite at the finishing narrow every round, and cast off the remaining stitches, just darning the end of wool in to keep it firm. The above method finishes a toe off rather more quickly than some knitters like. If that is the case, it can be altered by narrowing 2 or 3 times with 3 rounds between, then 2 or 3 times, or even more, with 2 between ; then every other round until the toe is finished. When any of the above toes are used, it is generally advisable to knit the plain part of the foot longer than the one square plain which I have given as the length for the plain portion of the foot of an ordinary stocking. A square and a quarter would perhaps suit for the above toes, though something depends on the size and shape of the foot of the intended wearer. I would, however, beg everyone to make a fiir trial of the " Norweigan Toe " detailed below. All the directions that are given for stockings are arranged for the use of the Norweigan Toe, unless otherwise stated. Norwegian Toe. The English styles given above may suit some feet. They are preferred to any others by some knitters, but the following method, which is the one practised in Christiana and, we suppose, in Norway generally, is almost universally liked when it is once tried. Its great recommendation is that whilst it seems to give comfortable room and adapt itself to the shape of the toes, it yet does not fill the boot up. After the square plain, begin at the middle of the sole, ist narrowing — * knit 9 plain, take 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit 8 plains round. 2nd narrowing — * knit 8, take 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit 7 plain rounds. 3rd narrowing — * knit 7, take 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit 6 plain rounds. 4th narrowing — * knit 6, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit 5 plain rounds. 5ih narrowing — * knit 5i tzkt. 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit 4 plain rounds. 6th narrowing — * knit 4, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit I round. 7th narrowing— knit 3, take 2 together, and repeat. Knit i round. 8th narrowing — knit 2, take 2 together, and repeat. Knit I round. 9th narrowing^knit i, take 2 together, and repeat to the end of the round. Knit I round. loth narrowing — take 2 together, * take together, and repeat from *, casting off in the same round. For a baby, the same system may be adopted in this manner. 1st narrowing — * knit 5, take 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit 4 plain rounds. 2nd narrow- ing — * knit 4, take 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit 3 plain rounds. 3rd narrowing — * knit 3, take 2 together, and repeat from *. Knit 2 plam rounds. 4th narrowing — * knit 2, take 2 together, and repeat from '. Knit I plain round. 5lh narrowing — * knit i, take 2 together, and repeat from*. 6th narrowing^ * take 2 together, and repeat from *, casting off in the same round. For a child of 5 you may begm with the 2nd narrowing as detailed in the "Toe," that will be " * knit S, take 2 together, and repeat *." The remainder of the directions will serve. At any time when a toe seems Ukely to be longer than you wish, put the narrowings a little nearer together ; but it will be wiser not to alter the directions until you have tried them as they are. Stripe for Quilt, Toilette Cover, &c. Cast on 32 stitches. If you use No. 10 cotton and No. 13 needles, this number of stitches will make a stripe about 4 inches wide. Any width of stripe can be made. In calculating reckon 8 stitches to each pattern and 2 over. Thus for 10 patterns there would be 80 stitches, and the odd 2, making 82 in all. In addition you must have 3 plain stitches at least at each end, so that for the 10 patterns above mentioned you would require 88 stitches in all. To return to our small stripe. Never forget to knit 3 stitches plain at the beginning and end of every rcruK The 3 plain stitches will not be included in the instructions after the first row. 1st row — 3 plain for the edge, to begin the pattern ; — 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 10 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 3 plain for the edge. 2nd row — 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain 10 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl. 3rd row — 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain. 4th row — 2 pur), 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl. 5tli and 6th rows — like the 1st and 2nd. 7th and 8th rows — like the 3rd and 4th. gth and loth rows — like the Ist and 2nd. iilh row — 10 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 10 plain. I2th row — 10 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 10 purl. 13th row — 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain. 14th row — 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl. 15 and i6th rows — like the nth and 12th. 17th and iSth rows — like the 13th and I4tb. 19th and 20th rows — like the nth and 1 2th. Begin again with the ist row. Handsome Deep Border for Knitted Quilt, 6 inches deep and 4 wide. Cast on 29 stitches. All alternate rows plain. 1st row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i, forward, knit 26 plain. 3rd row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i, forward, take 2 together, forward, knit 25 plain. 5th rosv — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i, * forward, 2 together, repeat from * once, forward, knit 24 plain. 7th row— cot- ton forward, take 2 together, knit i,*cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * twice, forward, knit 23 plain. 9th row — cotton forward, take 2 to- gether, knit I, * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * ihr.-e times, forward, knit 22 plain. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. nth row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit I, * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from ' 4 times (that of course makes 5 times in all to bring the cotton forward, and take 2 together), cotton forward, knit 21 plain. 13th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i , * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * five times, for- ward, knit 20 plain. 15th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit I, * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * 6 times, cotton forward, knit 19 plain. 17th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit I, * cotton forward, take 2 to- gether, and repeat from * 7 times, cotton for- ward, knit 18 plain. 19th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i, * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * 8 times, cotton forward, knit 17 plain. 21st row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit I, * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * 9 times, forward, knit 16 plain. 23rd row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i , * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * 10 rimes, forward cotton, knit 15 plain. 25th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i, * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * 1 1 times, cotton forward, knit 14 plain. 27th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i, * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * 12 times, cotton forward, knit 13 plain. You now begin to decrease the scallop. 29th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, *cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from* 12 times, knit 13 plain, but do not bring the cotton forward before knitting the plain stitches now. 31st row — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * 11 times, knit 14 plain. 33rd row — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * 10 times, knit 15 plain. 35th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from "" 9 times, knit 16 plain. 37th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * 8 times, knit 17 plain. 39th row — forward, 2 together, 2 together, * forward, 2 together, repeat from * 7 times, knit 18 plain. 41st row — cotton forward, 2 together, 2 together, * forward, 2 together, and repeat from * 6 times, knit 19 plain, 43rd row — forward, 2 together, 2 together, * forward, 2 together, and repeat from * 5 times, knit 20 plain. 45th row — forward, 2 together, 2 together, * forward, 2 together, and repeat from * 4 times, knit 2 1 plain. 47th TOW — forward, 2 together, 2 together, * for- ward, 2 together, and repeat from * 3 times, knit 22 plain. 49th row — forward, 2 together 2 together, * forward, 2 together, and repeat from * twice, knit 23 plain. 51st row— forward, 2 to- gether, 2 together, * forward, 2 together, and repeat- from * once, knit 24 plain. 53rd row — forward, 2 together, 2 together, forward, 2 together, knit 25 plain. 55th row — forward, 2 together, 2 together, knit 26 plain. This brings the stitches to 29 again, the number which was first cast on. Begin again with the first row of pattern after knitting the usual alternate plain row. Border for Quilt in Knitting, with Heading, suitable also tor Anti- macassar, AND Toilette Covers. Cast on 16. You soon learn the pattern. 1st row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit I, cotton forward, knit 6 ; x cotton forward, take 2 together, cotton forward, take 2 together, cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i x . From x to x is the heading, and will be referred to again. 2nd row — slip I, knit 1, cotton forward, take 2 to- gether, cotton forward, take 2 together, cotton forward, take 2 together, knit plain to the end. Every alternate row is like the 2nd row. 3rd row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit i, cotton forward, take 2 together, cotton forward, knit 5, repeat from x toxin the 1st row. 4th row — like the 2nd. ^ih row — cotton forward, take 2 to- gether, knit I, * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * once, cotton forward, knit 4, repeat from X to X as in ist row. 6th row — like the 2nd. 7th row — cotton forward, take 2 together. knit 1, * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * twice, cotton forward, knit 3, repeat from x to X in 1st row. 8th row — ,as the 2nd. 9th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, knit I, *cotton for- ward, take 2 together, repeat from * three times more, that will be four in all, cotton forward, knit 2, repeat from x to x in 1st row. loth row — as the 2nd. nth row — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * three times, knit 2, repeat from x to X in 1st row. This eleventh row turns the scallop. I2th row — as the 2nd. 13th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, * cotton forward, take 2 together, repeat from * twice, knit 3, repeat from X to X in 1st row. 14th row — as the 2nd. 15th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, * cotton forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * once, knit 4, repeat from x to x in 1st row. l6th row — as the 2nd. 17th row — — cotton forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, cotton forward, take 2 together, knit 5, repeat from x to X in first row. iSth row — as the 2nd. 19th row — cotton forward, take 2 together, lake 2 to- gether, knit 6, repeat from x toxin Ist row. 20th ro'w — as the 2nd. 21st row — begin .again with the first row. SHOULDER CAPE. Very Handsome and Suitable for House Weae, but especially so for Ladies after Accouchement or any other Illness. Materials. — 10 oz. of wool and large wooden hook, which measures about ij inches round. The size of the cape is for 36 inches bust. For colour, crimson or blue in shades ; and in calcula- ting how to arrange your shades you must reckon J an oz. for each of the first eight rows — that will be 4 oz. The remainder of the body of the cape will take 4 oz., and you must have 2 oz. for the border, making in all the 10 oz. specified above. There will be a little over when you have finished. The reason we have particularised so much is that you may be guided in buying the right quantity of each shade. In the model the first four rows are in dark crimson, the fifth and sixth in a lighter shade, the seventh and eighth rows are in a still lighter shade, and the rest of the cape is in a pale rose colour. The border round the cape is in the dark crimson. To arrange for the above, 4 oz. of dark, I oz. of each of the intermediate shades, and 4 oz. of pale rose. Cost of the 10 oz , 3^-. gd. It the cape is for an invalid, you might buy a little more of the light shade; and then you would have enough to make a pair of very elegant bedroom slippers to match. This cape is worked in point de neige, or shell pattern, and the details of the stitch will be found in the previous issue of the Fancy Work Basket. The pattern will be counted in shells. Make about 144 chain loosely. Do 7° shells for the first row. Second row. — Take the 3rd and 4th shells together, the 35th and 36th together, the 67th and 68th together. Third row. — Plain ; there are 67 shells in this row, and the 34th is the middle one. Thread a wool needle with wool of a different colour, and slip it into the 34th shell to mark the middle of the back, and in every succeeding row mark the centre stitch as you do it, so as to keep it quite distinct. Take 2 other wool needles, and, in like manner, mark the i8tli shell from each end. If worked correctly, the cape is a really beautiful shape, but too much care cannot be taken to keep the narrowings in the right places. Fourth row. — Decrease in the fol- lowing way: take 2 shells together on eac/i side of the three markings, that will be at each shoulder of the cape and at the back, making 6 decreasings in .all. Fifth row. — Plain, without decreasings. Sixth row. — The same, plain, and no decreasings. Seventh row. — Take the nth and 12th shells to- gether, the 25th and 26th together, the 37th and 3Sth together, the 52i!d and 53rd together. Eighth row, plain. Ninth row, plain. Tenth row, plain. Eleventh row, plain. Twelfth row. — Count your shells : you should have 5 7. Take the 3rd and 4th together, the 14th and 15th together, the 17th and iSth together, the 27th and 28th together, the 3o;h and 31st together, the 40th and 41st together, the 43rd and 44.th together, the 54th and 55th together; the remaining 2 stitches plain. Thirteenth row. — Yon have 49 shells. Take the 12th and 13111 to- gether, the 15th and i6!h together, the 34111 and 35th together, the 37th and 3Sth together. Four- teenth row. — Has 45 shells to begm with. Take the 3rd and 4th together, the 9th and loth to- gether, the nth and I2th together, the I3lh shell plain, the 14th and 15th together, the 16th and 17th together, the 29th and 30th together, the 31st and 32nd together, the 33rd plain, the 34th and 35th together, the 36th and 37th together, the 42nd and 43rd together. Altogether there are 10 decreasings in this row. Fifteenth row. — In which there are 35 shells. Leave 3 shells, and start on the 4th. Take the 4th and 5th together, the 6th plain, the 7th and 8th together, the gth, lOth ,",nd nth together, the 12th and 13th together, the 14th plain, the 15th and 1 6th together, the 17th, iSth and 19th plain, the i8th is the centre stitch, the 20th and 21st together, the 22nd plain, the 23rd and 24th together, the 25th, 26th and 27th to- gether, the 28th and 29th together, the 30tli plain, the 31st and 32nd together. This leaves 3 shells which you do not work, to correspond with the 3 you left at the beginning of the row. Sixteenth row. — You have 17 shells in the row you have just done. Begin on the second shell, and work it plain. Take the 3rd, 4th and 5th together, from the 6th to the 12th plain, take the 13th, 14th and ISth together, the i6th plain. You thus have left a shell at each end. Seventeenth row. — There arc n shells in the row you have just done, and if you count in the 4 from each end that were not worked in the 2 previous rows, you will have 19 shells. Do a plain row on these ig shells, and that will finish the cape part. For the neck use the same shade as the top part of the cape is worked in, and make 2 treble at the beginning of the row, and 2 treble into the centre of every shell. By the centre we mean the little hole made by drawing the strands which form the shells together. There ought to be 40 treble in the whole row. For the border — take the darkest colour of wool, fasten on with a slip- stitch, make i chain, 2 double crochet into the centre of the first shell, * 2 double crochet into the centre of the next shell, and repeat from*. Round the corners make extra double crochet to cause them to lie flat. You must arrange to get 2 double crochet to each shell round the bottom of the cape. Slip-stitch across the neck. To do this (if you do not know how to slip-stitch), put the hook in the back of the stitch in the previous row, as for ordinary crochet, but instead of drawmg the wool through and then through the 2 strands on the hook .as for double crochet, draw the wool at once through the stitch you slipped the needle into and the strand or loop of wool on your THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. hook. For llie last row of tlie border— -please observe Ihat the double crochet of the previous row lie in sets o( two all round the cape. The present row is entirely worked bcti!fo. 2 will do, but if you work lightly, use No. I. Cast on with the fine wool So stitches. First row — knit back plain knitting : the whole scarf is in plain knitting. Second row — join the white double Berlin, and knit plain to the end of the row. Third row — knit back. You have now a rib of the white Berlin wool. Fourth row — take the pale blue fine wool and knit the fourth and fifth rows of that. Sixth and seventh in the white double Berlin. Eighth and ninth rows — in the pale blue, and so on. This arrangement brin^ 5" the joins to one side of the scarf. Take care to keep the ends of the rows even. You do not break the wool off when you chang'e it. It can be changed like the wool for the stripes of a stocking. When the wrap is long enough, finish off with the pale blue wool.t^j It is better to begin and finish with the fine wool, as it is easier to gather. Gather the ends, and finish off with a tassel composed of the two colours. For ordinary wear black Berlin wool and fine white wool looks well. Some prefer Shetland instead of merino, as it is finer. Chest-Comforter. Materials : — About 2 oz. best white fingerings and pins No. 8 or 9. Cast on 57 stitches. The 57 stitches make it from 8 to 9 inches wide. If wanted wider, cast on more slitches in threes. Knit in brioche until the chest-preserver is as long as you wish it to be. From n to 12 inches is a suitable length. When long enough cast off. Now cast on the same number of stitches, i.e. 57, or more if you have them. Knit plain backward and forward until your plain knitting is just the same size as the piece of brioche. Now lay the plain knitting at the back of the brioche, and either crochet or sew the two pieces together. Now sew a piece of broad tape to the right side long enough to hang it round the wearer's neck, so that it shall not interfere with the set of the shirt collar. Make a button-hole or loop at the other end of the tape, anci sew a large button to the left side. Button the tape on to the button, and the work is finished. To MAKE A Double Comforter for back and front. Proceed as above, making two comforters instead of one. When they are fini.shed, either knit, or make a strap of tape for each shoulder, fasten in front with a button and loop on the left side, School-Boy's Scarf. Materials : — 3 oz. of fingering or Berlin wool, pins No. 9. For a scarf 6 inches wide cast on 48 stitches loosely. First row — knit 2 plain, 2 purl to the end of the row. Second row — same as the first, knit 2 plain, 2 purl. Third row — purl 2, knit 2 plain, repeat. In this row the purl stitches should come over the plain stitches in the previous row. Fourth row — the same as the third. Fifth row— begin again at the firs' row. The pattern comes in little squares. It is very efteclive. When long enough finish off with a fringe. Grey is a good colour, or even fawn for the scarf. If you use grey, it might be varied by a couple of narrow black stripes at each end, and the fringe composed of alternate strands of black and grey. For a httle boy white looks very pretty. This is a warm stitch. Nice Shawl and Comforter Stitches. A VERY comfortable shawl can be made of white fingering wool and No. 3 or 4 needles. You had better have a long pair. Cast on 150 or 200 stitches ; 200 stitches will make a good size. For a cloud wrap perhaps the 150 will be sufficient. Knit 4 plain rows. 5111 row — knit 2 plain, now knit 3 stitches together, * now make 3 stitches of the next stitch, by first purling it without slipping it off the left-hand needle, then knitting it, still keeping it on the needle, then purling it again ; now take 3 stitches together, and repeat from * till you have only 2 slitches left, knit those 2 plain. 6lh row — knit plain. 7th row — knit the 2 [ilain at the beginnirg, * make 3 out of the next stitch, then knit 3 together, and repeat from * till you have 2 stikhes left ; knit them plain. 8lh row — plain. Begin again with the 5lh row, and repeat as often as necessary until you have the length required, or until your shawl is square. Knit the 4 plain rows, for which you must allow in measur- ing. Cast off carefully. « Fringe round. Be care- ful in working to see that you get your brambles between one another. To do this properly, the stitches that you make out of one stitch in one pattern row must be taken together in the next pattern row. You will soon find it quite easy to keep thtm right. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. SAMPLES OF CREWEL WORK FOR a BEGINNERS. For the convenience of ladies who may desire to learn art-needlework, we offer a "Beginner's Sample," post free Is, This sample will be a piece of material traced with any flower in general use, part of which will be commenced; sufficient tracing left to practice upon and crewel and needle. Address, Mrs. Clara Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London, S.E. SHAWL STITCHES IN CROCHET. Shetland Shawl. Materials: — 8 or 10 oz. of Shetland wool will make a large size, and No. I or 2 hook. You commence by making a small square, and you must either work the square tightly, or, better still, use a somewhat finer needle than the one you use for the body of the shawl. To begin the square. Do 9 chain ; work 3 chain more. The last three count for a treble. Make 2 treble into the last of the 9 you made for the foundation, that will be into the 4th from the end you are working at. Miss 2 chain, make 3 treble into the 3rd chain, miss 2 chain, make 2 treble into the next chain to the 2 you have missed, i treble into the end one of the foundation chain. 2nd row — turn. Make 3 chain 2 treble into the 1st hole, 3 treble into the 2nd hole, 3 treble into the 3rd hole, I treble into the last stitch of the previous row. 3rd row — like the 2nd. 4lh row— like the 2nd. You have now a small square mat, and it is time to begin the shawl. The first few rounds of the pattern of the shawl require working carefully, as it is possible to get one side of the shawl wider than the others. You left off the square at a corner, and at that corner there is a hole. Make 3 chain 2 treble into that hole, 3 chain 3 treble into the same hole. This is the corner. Make 3 treble into the side stitch of the set of treble which lies next to the hole into which you worked the corner treble. Make a 2nd set of 3 treble into the next hole. Nov/ make the corner, that is, 3 treble 3 chain 3 treble all into the corner hole or stitch. In this case you make them into the corner stitch, as there is no hole. Be sure to work the corner over several strands of wool, to make it as firm as the corners which are worked into holes. You have now finished one side, which has 2 corners and 2 sets of treble between the corners. Second side : 3 treble into the first hole after the completion of the corner, 3 treble into the 2nd hole ; make the corner as before into the 3rd or corner hole. Proceed in this manner until you have completed the round, and join the last treble to the top one of the 3 chain you began the round with. These 3 chain, you will see, do duty for a treble. 2nd round — having joined the 1st round and examined your work, to see that it is an exact square having just the same number of stitches on each side, make 2 chain, and especislly note that you have made them, as they will again be re.'erred to. You had better mark them. NVork the corner as you worked it in the 1st row, viz., 3 treble 3 chain 3 treble all into the corner hole. Make a set of 3 treble into the ist hole after the corner is done, then into the 2nd hole, and then the 3rd hole, and now work the corner again. Go on in this manner till you are ready to work the last set of treble in the last side of the round before you join the round. Instead of joining the round, woik tlie treble into the hole formed by the 2 chain I told you to remember. Work the corner as before. Now look at your work. If you have 3 sets of treble between every two corners, your work is right. If not, read over the directions and see where the miitake is. You will see that the last corner made begins a new round, and the above arrangement enables you to work on and on without the trouble and unsightlinessof ajoin in every round. Ilence- foith jou work in the simple pattern, 3 treble into every hole, and 3 treble 3 chain 3 treble into every corner hole. This shawl may be made all in white, but a remarkably pretty combination is obtained by the following method. . .Suppose you are making the 8 oz. shawl : have 6 oz. of the palest blue, and 2 oz. of a very delicate light pink. Work up 4j of 5 oz. of the blue, then put 4 or 5 rounds of pink, a few more rounds of Ijlue, then another stripe of pink, a little more of the pale blue, and a deep scallop of the pink to finish the shawl. The following is a pretty scallop to finish and very simple Do several rounds of pink i in the shawl pattern, and for the edge, make I double crochet into a hole, * I chain i treble into the next hole, i chain i treble into the same hole ; go on making i chain i treble into the same hole until you have 4 treble with a chain between. Make i chain and a double crochet into the next hole. Repeat from *. Watch when you are coming near the corners, so as to have the corner scallops right. You will need 6 treble at least, with I chain between to make the corner scallop lie Hat. In every other respect it is like the scallop detailed for the side. If preferred you can have a deeper scallop thus, — When the ir,t scallop detailed above is worked all round, make I double crochet into the hole made by the i chain you made after you worked the double crochet and before working the treble of the scallop in the previous row. We will call this hole made by the i chain the first hole. When you have made the double crochet into this hole, make * I chain, then work a treble into the centre hole of the scallop you are working over. Repeat i chain I treble, until yoa have 6 treble worked into the one hole. Make I chain. Now make a double crjchet into the last hole of the scallop you are working over which corresponds with xiis first hole into which you worked the double crochet. This makes a deep scallop. Make a double crochet into the first hole of the next scallop in the row below, then repeat from*. Make the corners fiat by putting more treble. You will find it best in working the corners to put about 2 treble with a chain between each treble into every hole of the corner scallop instead of putting a great number of I chain i treble into the one centre hole. There will be 5 holes. When the centre of the shawl gets a large size, you may find it advisable to put I chain between the sets of 3 treble, that is, make I chain 3 treble into a hole, I chain 3 treble into a hole, and so on. Also when you are charging the colours, finish off the last row of the colour you are working on the side at which you began the shawl. You will know which side that is by the mark you put into the two stitches mentioned in the beginning of the rounds. When you come to the right place, just make I chain and a slip-stitch into the next hole, make i chain and break off, drawing the end through lightly. There will thus be two holes close together. In the next row you will most likely have to put a set of 3 treble into each hole to get the right number of sets in a side, but ic will not be noticed. Begin the fresh colour in a I'lesh place, and always finish the last row of a stripe of colour immediately over where you began it. In doing the stripes you may join the last and first treble of a row, and begin the succeeding row by 3 chain 2 treble into a hole. Pretty Shawl. Make a chain of whatever width you require your shawl to be. ist row — make a loop through each 3 successive stitches, work through the 3 loops, on the hook together ; make I chain, put llie hook through the 3 loops, just worked, and nuke I double ; then 1 chain, continue. 2nd rov,' — draw a loop through each 3 successive stitches, work through the 3 loops together, and make I chain, work i double, under the 3 loops, put wool over the hook and continue ; go on working second row till your shawl is long enough. In making the edges, make I double into a stitch of the shawl, make 3 chain, miss 2 stitches, and i double into the next ; continue. A very pretty fringe is to m.ake a chain the length required, ist row — I treble, separated by 1 chain into each stitch. 2nd row — I double into a stitch of last row, I chain, miss 5, continue, 3rd row — 3 double trebles, under the $ chain, of last row ; make 5 chain, continue. 4th row — I double into second of 3 chain last row ; 5 chain, repeat. 5th row — i double, 2 trebles, and i double treble, under the J chain la.st row ; 2 chain, I double treble, 2 trebles, and I double under the same chain ; continue. Cut lengths ol wool the same size, and knot 4 lengths into each chain of last row. This will be found the best way of making fringe both in cotton and wooL Ice Wool Squares. ^^fffetSt- These scaifs look very pretty made in pale blue or crimson wool : — Jlake a chain of 18 ; fasten it into a circle, then work 5 chain, put it into fourth stitch of circle, work 5 more chain, put into same hole ; then work 5 more, put into fourth cham, 5 again into same hole ; this will form two sides of the square ; make 5 chain, put into next fourth, then 5 more into same; 5 more chain put into n';xt fourth, 5 more into same hole — makes the four corners ; keep on working 5 into every thiid, until large enough. Quantity required, 2 balls of ice wool, and a coarse crochet-hook. COJIFORTABLE ShAWL. This shawl is three cornered in shape, or in other words it is a half shawl. It is veiy simply made, but by a judicious selection of colour, can be fashioned into an elegant finii^h to the shoulders. Materials for a warm shawl : — Choose Verlin wool, or very good fingering ; about 3 ounces should make one of fair size. The wool may be all one colDur, or a prettier form is to have 2 ounces of one shade and another ounce of a different shade — say while, and i ounce of pink ; or grey, and i ounce scarlet. Bone hook, medium size. Nos. S or 7 are good sizes for the purpose. Make a chain of 6 stitches. Unite by m.eans of a slip-stitch. First row — 4 chain (not too loosely made nor too tightly) 2 treble into the hole or round ; i chain 3 treble, I chain 3 treble, I chain 3 treble. 2nd rcw — make 4 chain 2 tret)le between the first and second treble of the previous row. This is to increase, as it makes an extra hole each time. Now make I chain, and work 3 treble into the first hole made by the I chain between the treble in the previous row, i chain 3 treble into the centre hole, 2 chain 3 treble into the centre hole again, i chain 3 treble into the next hole made by the chain between the treble in the picceding row, and you must '■'- w work 3 treble '■elzi'een the last treble in ther* and the last but one. This increase at the end = the row is to correspond with the increase at Ihe beginning. Every row is like the second row. You always increase between tlie first and second treble stitch of the row, and between the last and the last but one. The 4 chain you make at the beginning of the row are supposed to be equal to a treble stitch, so if you find the neck edge of the shawl gelling too wide, you may make 3 chain instead of 4. "When you have worked up abou; an ounce or so of the light shade, join the dark and make a few rows, then 2 « 3 rows in the light THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. shade, and a rather deeper stripe of dark to follow it ; finish off with a few rows of the light. Crochet a border of the dark wool round the shawl, or you can make i dark row, I light row, and a dark one to finish, or you may reverse it, and have a dark row and a light row to finish. For the border, a scallop can be made thus : — Double crochet into a hole, 2 chain * 2 treble i chain, 2 treble I chain, 2 treble all from * into the next hole, then 2 chain and a double crochet into the next hole to that, which is the third, counting from the one into which you put your first double crochet. This is one scallop : having made it, repeat round the shawl. At the corners you must put more sets of I chain 2 treble to make it lie flat. Another very hand- some scallop, but which takes more wool, can be made thus : — Double crochet into a hole, 2 chain I long treble into the next or second hole, I chain 1 long treble 6 times more. You have now 7 long treble 2 chain and a double crochet into the next or third hole. Make the corners right by putting more treble with a chain between. A long treble is made by winding the wool round the hook twice, putting the hook in the hole, drawing the wool through the hole. You have now 4 strands of wool on the hook. Draw the wool through 2, then 2 again, and finally through the last 2 on the needle. Shawl in Fancy Stitch for Baby instead OF A Cloak, or for Elderly Lady. Materials : — No. 3 hook ; | lb. of white wool, or 14 oz. of coloured. Pale fawn with darker shade or coral is a good contrast. To begin, make 5 chain or 4 loose chain. Unite with a slip- slitch. 2 chain i treble into the hole, * I tight chain; wind the wool round the needle again, draw it through the hole as for a treble; now wind the wool round the needle again, and draw it through the hole as for a treble a second time. You have now 4 loops on the needle, made by the 2 unfinished treble and the original loop on the needle ; that is, 5 in all. Draw the wool through the 4 loops made by the 2 unfinished treble, and again through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. This constitutes a stitch. Repeat from * until you have eleven holes. Do not join 2nd row. One tight chain I stitch into the first hole of the previous row, * l chain I stitch into the same hole ; repeat from * until you have 4 stitches with a chain between, this constitutes the corner ; ** I chain I stitch into the first hole, I chain I stitch into the second hole. For the corner I chain I stitch into the third hole four times. After the corner is done repeat from ** until the round is finished. You can go on working round in this manner, I tight chain I stitch into each hole except the corner hole, into which you put 4 stitches with a chain between. For the border, I stitch into a hole, I chain i stitch into the same hole. * I chain i stitch into the next hole but one, I chain one stitch into the same hole ; repeat from *. These 2 stitches with the chain between them form a set. Please remember this. Put the sets a little closer round the corners. 2nd round — double crochet into a hole formed by the 2 treble placed in I hole, which I explained as a set ; * I chain i long treble into the hole of the next set ; repeat from * until you have 6 treble in that hole, I chain I double crochet into the next set. Repeat from the first in the 2nd round. Round the corners the Vandykes will be wider, but they look better not very pointed at the corners. Make the corners flat but not full, and be especially sure to have them all alike. It is almost impossible to lay down a strict rule as to how they shall be done, but they are simply composed of a greater number of treble with I chain between them. The way you put them depends on the width of Vandyke you make, and so long as they are regularly arranged and all the corners alike, it is very immaterial, supposing they look nice, wh5ch they are pretty sure to do. The fancy stitch of the shawl looks very handsome indeed as a stripe for an antimacassar. The Shetland shawl pattern in this paper is very good for berlin wool with one or two chain between the sets of treble. Another shawl can be made with the same materials as those mentioned for the fancy stitch above; i.e.. No. 3 needle and single berlin wool, in the following pattern. The result is remarkably pretty, and especially suitable for wearing on coming out of concert, or other heated rooms of entertainment. The pattern consists of I treble I chain I treble all into a hole, I treble I chain 1 treble all into the next hole. 2nd row — the same as the firsf, putting the treble into the hole formed by the i chain between the treble. You will find you require a large centre hole to commence this pattern, say 9 or lo stitches, and you fill up the centre hole afterwards by means of a wool needle. Bedroom or Invalid Slippers. The above are far warmer than ordinary slippers, and are especially valuable to ladies beginning to sit up after an illness. They are equally suitable for a present or for a bazaar, at which they would be sure to sell ; and, worked in pretty colours and with warm linings, would be most acceptable either by themselves, or in conjunction with the Shoulder Cape given in the present issue of the Fancy Work-Basket as a very handsome and useful gift to a young mother. They are in Russian crochet. Materials : — crochet hook. No. 8, double berlin-wool, 2 ounces ; colour, pale pink. They must be worked firmly. Make a chain of 12. This size is for No. 5 sock for the sole. First row — II double crochet. Second row — turn. Double crochet into the back of every stitch, but in the centre stitch increase by putting 3 stitches into it. Third row — as a second, increasing in the centre stitch, and always working into the back part of the stitches of the preceding row. When 6 ribs are done, work only on 10 stitches till you have done enough to go down one side — it will take about 1 1 ridges. Break off and begin at the foot, and make a corresponding side to the one you have just done. These join at the back of the heel. Be careful when you begin the second side to have the ribs to match the one already done. Before joining them at the back, you must cut out your lining. The material of this must be according to taste and means. Quilted silk or satin is the nicest, and should be of a colour to match the wool ; but fine flannel or cashmere, or even plain unquilted flannel will do. It is best to quilt a straight piece, and then cut the shape out. When you lay your slipper on the lining, just slightly draw the two ends of the heel towards one another for a distance of, perhaps, half an inch on each side. This will make the slipper the proper shape. You can also, in joining the lining of the slipper, take in a little more at the top of the heel than at the bottom, where it touches the sole. This makes the slip- per cling to the heel better, and it is now ready to make up. For the sole — get a pair of cork socks at 4(/., No. 5. Cut a piece of American cloth the same sire as the sole. Bind the American cloth and the sole together with braid the colour of the wool. Do it in this way. Tack your cloth and sole together. Begin about the instep to sew the braid. You can perh.aps do the sewing by machine in this first stitching, but I warn you it is nearly as much trouble as hand work. Turn the braid over and hem it to the flannel lining of the sole. It is quickly done. Sew the join of braid firmly. This completes the sole. Now pin your crochet slipper and the lining together, arranging all the joins inside. Take a piece of pink, satin ribbon, and bind the lining and crochet slipper to- gether round the instep by sewing it nicely on the light side and then turning it over, fixing it nicely at the corners of the instep. Turn the edge of the lining in, and tack the outer edges of slipper and lining together. It is ready now to sew to the sole. In doing this, exercise a little care, and you will have no difficulty in the matter. Pin the slipper to the sole exactly in the back at the centre of the heel, and again at the centre of the toe. You will find that the toe of the slipper is slightly wider than that of the sole. This is intentional, and you must dispose the fulness in such a way as to m'fee the front of the sl.-pper raised nicely at the tot. the same way that the toe of a boot is raised, carefully done, this makes the slipper much more comfortable. You sew first the lining to the sole very firmly, and then sew the wool of the slipper in such a way that the stitching does not show. Finish with a bow of pink satin ribbon to match the binding. If a smaller size is wished, begin with 10 chain and have 9 double crochet in the first row ; and ocly do 7 or 8 stitches in the strip for round the foot. If you wish to economise in cutting the lin- ing, cut the front part of the foot first, and cut the strips separate, and then join them. It will not use quite so much as cutting them out in a piece. You can make the pieces cut into one another, and be sure to cut both linings exactly the same. Comfortable Cuff and Gauntlet for. Little Girls. Steel pins. No. 15, and pair of No. 7, single Berlin wool of any colour to please. Scarlet and grey make up well. Cast on 40 stitches. These are knitted on two pins. Two plain, 2 purl, till you have done f of an inch in scarlet. Join the grey, go on ribbing till you have it long enough to reach from the knuckle well on to the wrist. Now take the No. 7 pins and work brioche stitch for 6 inches. The brioche can be done in stripes of scarlet and grey, or the whole cuff can be made in one colour if preferred. When 6 inches of brioche are done take the steel pins again, and rib about an inch. Cast off. Sew up the cuff, leaving a space for the thumb. Turn half of the gauntlet inside, and catch the ribbed part of it to the ribbed part of the wrist in two or three places only, as if you sew it all round the ribbed part of the wrist will not stretch. If preferred, you can make a row of holes, 3 rows before you commence the culif, thus : — Bring the "wool forward, take 2 together, bring the wool for- ward, take 2 together. When the cuffs are finished an elastic may be run in these holes, and a small bow of ribbon placed in the centre of the back of the hand. For a smaller child cast on fewer stitches. Very Easy Baby's Shoe. Cast on 28. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — wool forward, knit the rest of the row plain. You thus increase a stitch at the beginning of the row. Re peat the 2nd row until you have 34 stitches. Knit plain till you can count 1 1 ribs of plain knitting. Now slip 16 on to a piece of wool. Knit on the remaining 18 until you can count 7 ribs. Now cast on 16 to make up for the 16 you cast off in the first instance. Knit on plain till you can count 8 ribs. Next row plain, but take 2 together at the end of the row. Repeat this row until you have 28 stitches. Cast off. For the leg take up the 16 from the wool, I in the corner, 8 across the front of the instep, I in the other corner, and 16 on the remaining side of the ankle. Altogether you will have 42 stitches. 1st row — purl. 2nd rov/ — *wool round the needle twice, take 2 together. Repeat from *. 3rd row — purl I stitch, * now purl into the twisted wool, slip the remainder of the twisted stitch off the left hand needle, purl the next stitch. Repeat from *. Count the stitches that you may be sure you have the 42. If you have any diffi- culty in doing the 2nd row you can do it in a simpler way, as follows. * Wool forward, take 2 together. Repeat from *. 4th row — brioche, every row like the 4th row utitil the leg is long enough. Brioche, as has been often stated, is aimply * wool forward, slip I, take 2 together, and repeat from *. Sew the shoe up at the back and along the sole. Gather the toe carefully and sew that up. Finish by crocheting a band or scallop round the top of the leg, and a rosette for the toe. Add ribbon for strings, or a crochet tie of two or three thicknesses of wool, crocheted into a chain about 14 inches long and finished with tassels. For a simple rosette — make 5 chain into a ring and crochet treble with one chain between the hole until the rosette is full enough, THfe FANCV WORK BASKliT. Fascinator. THEabove is Ihe name bestowed by lli^ American ladies on a light covering for the head. It is similar to our English small opera wraps or shawls. If really prettily made they are such an elegant addition for garden or other wear that they may truly be called Fascinators, as they well serve to fascinate or enchant the sterner sex. Materials : Shetland wool, or any deUcate yarn of a suitable colour. Pale pink, pale blue, white with a suitable coloured border, or more deUcate still, all white is extremely pretty ; while if you wish it to be very bewitching, you might have white or pink silk, or white wool with a silk or knitting arrasene coloured border. You will excuse n:y going so much into detail, as I wish both you and myself to do our full share of fascination, and so long as the influence we exercise is in the right direction, the nicer we can look, and the more influence we have on those around us, the better it will be. I believe there is no time we should look so well as in the evening, when husband, sons, or brothers are at home, so as to make home attractive and pleasant for them, and it is especially advisable to look charming if a brother should be good enough to take his sister out for an evening and introduce to her some of those very convenient friends that brothers so often have. The friends occasionally prove quite lasting or very constant friends. After this little prelimi- nary, I must warn you that the " fascinators " are usually of very simple shape, their great charm consisting first in their being skilfully and becom- ingly arranged on the head, and secondly, in the supreme unconsciousness of the wearer as to her appearance. To begin : — Take your materials and a medium-sized hook, No. 8 or 9 will do nicely for most yarns. Now make a chain of five care- fully and evenly, neither too loosely nor too tightly. 1st row : — Turn, work four long treble into the first chain you made, which is the fifth from the needle. This makes just a little point. 2nd row : — Make four chain, turn, and make four long treble into the first treble of the first row, one double crochet into the middle treble of the five in the previous row, five treble (long of course) into the last treble of the previous row. 3rd row : — Four chain, turn, four treble into the first stitch or treble of the previous row, one double crochet into the middle treble of the same picot, five treble into the first double crochet, one double crochet into the middle treble of the next picot, five treble into the last treble or stitch of the row. 4th row : — Four chain, turn, four treble into the first loop, one double crochet into the middle loop of the first picot, (*) five treble into the next double crochet, one double crochet into the middle loop of the next picot. Repeat from (*) to the end of the row, working five treble as usual, into the last treble of the previous row. Repeat the fourth row until the work is as large as you wish it to be. The size is a matter of taste, but about half a yard deep at the widest part from the point to the middle of the outside row at the back is a fair size. Make a border by working a scallop round the fascinator, composed of a number of long treble rather loosely worked, with a double crochet between the sets or picots, like the scallops you have put in your work, but rather larger than those in the work. If you wish a full border, you can work a small scallop, and then a second round of a larger scallop behind the first ; that is to say, the second round is worked into the body of the fascinator, just as the first round of bordering scallops was worked. Be sure to arrange that the scallops come evenly to the three points of the work, — the point where you begin, and the point at each side where you leave off. Another border which I think is prettier than this is given below. It takes a little more tmie to make perhaps, but is quite as easy. To begin : — Make a double crochet into a loop, now make ten loose chain, (*) one double crochet in the next loop, make ten chain, one double crochet into the same loop as you put the previous double crochet. Make ten chain and repeat from (*) all round the work. In doing the point at the ftont, you can put several sets of ten chain, one doUblo crochet, into the same loop so as to make it full ih front. Some ladies might like the front of the fascinator gathered up a little towards the point round the face, so as to make it fit well on the head. A bow can be added at the top if liked. It must be of ribbon to match the wool or har- monise well with it. The point is of course placed in front at the top of the head, towards the fore- head, and the ends are thrown over the shoulders or round the neck or tied in front, as seems most becoming. Both ends could be fastened at one side, with a bow of ribbon to match that at the top. I offer these remarks as suggestions only. A combination of individual taste and good sense is usually the best guide in all such matters. To work the long treble :— Put the wool over the hook, put the hook into a loop, draw the wool through ; then draw the wool through one loop, then through two loops, and then through the remaining two. Gentleman's Sock. Cast on 64 stitches, ist round. — * 2 plain, 2 purl, and repeat from * : work on in this manner until you have done 2 inches in length. Next round, make i stitch in the middle of one of the plain ribs, in the needle which has 24 in it. Mark this for the seam-stitch and always purl it. Next row, narrow by taking 2 together on each side of the seam-stitch, always leaving I plain stitch between the seam and the narrowing. Now knit 6 plain round, next round, narrow as before. Proceed in this way, doing 6 rounds without narrowing and narrowing every 7th round until you have doce 5 narrowing rounds. You will have 45 stitches left, arrange the ribs as nicely as you can, always keeping 4 plain stitches on each side of the seam. Now knit 3J inches for the ankle. Divide for the heel, taking care to have the seam-stitch in the middle of the heel. It is well to use a second wool when knitting it, either a finer wool or the same that you knit the rest of the sock with (I always use the same) and by this means you save yourself a good deal of darning in the future. If the gentleman has rather a high instep, make the gusset heel. If a low instep, you had better use the dutch heel. In taking off' the heel, you need no longer plain and purl, as the gusset of whatever kind comes of course to the bottom of the foot, and is more comfortable plain. There are full instructions for all kinds of heels and toes given on page 5, in Hints on Stock- ing Knitting. When you have finished the heel, take up the stitches at eacli side. About 24 or 25 at each side will probably be sufficient, in- clusive of those from the gusset or dutch heel. Knit I plain round, now narrow every round until you have the same number of stitches that you had in the ankle. Now knit on until it is time to form the toe. You must keep the instep stitches on that needle, because those stitches must be ribbed like the sock leg. The under-part of the foot is in plain knitting ; when the foot is long enough, which will be when you have done 4A or 4} inches, you must narrow for the toe. The toe in the model was formed as follows. — You no longer rib when forming the toe, — begin at the bottom of the foot, * knit 9 take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit 6 plain rounds. 2nd narrowing, — * knit 8 take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round, — knit 5 rounds. 3rd narrowing,—* knit 7 take 2 together and repeat from* knit 4 plain rounds. 4th narrowing, — * knit 6 take 2 together and repeat from* knit i plain round. 5th narrowing, — * knit 5 take 2 together and repeat from* knit I plain round. 6th narrowing, — * knit 4 take 2 together and repeat from * knit 1 plain round. 7th narrowing, — * knit 3 take 2 together and repeat from* knit I plain round. 8th narrowing, — * knit 2 take 2 together and re- peat from * knit I plain round. 9th narrowing, — * knit I take 2 together and repeat from * knit I rcund. loth narrowing, — take 2 together * take 2 together, and repeat from * casting off at the same time. Dam the end into the hole. These socks are for rather a slender leg and foot. They are a good length so as to fit nicely under the drawers. The model was knitted vrith No. 13. needles, and German fingering yam. If you knit loosely, you must use No. 14 needles. The socks are much liked for winter wear. Knitted Vest for Ladies, Medium Size, Materials : — Andalusian, soft fingering, or any wool about that size, and needles Nos. 7 or 8. Cast on very loosely 80 or 88 stitches. Knit plain for about 10 inches — this brings you to the waist. Now knit 4 plain 4 purl, for 4 inches. This shapes the vest to the figure. Now knit plain for 4 inches, now knit 4 plain 4 purl until it is as high as you wish it in the neck ; probably 3 inches will be found sufficient. This will make your vest 21 inches long in the body. When the front is done, you must make the shoulders. To do this, slip the first 16 stitches on to a piece of wool, cast off the remainder with the exception of :6, which will correspond with the 16 you slipped on to the wool. Knit on these 16 until the shoulder is as long as you wish (about 5 inches) then slip the stitches on to a second piece of wool. You can knit the shoulder plainly, or 4 plain 4 purl like the rest of the vest. Do the other shoulder the same way, and when it is the right length, cast on exactly the same number of stitches that you cast off" between the shoulders, then pick up and work the stitches of the first shoulder you did. This should give you exactly the same number of stitches as the number with which you commenced the vest. You can now knit 4 plain 4 purl "right away " until you come to the plain part of the waist. Knit the 10 inches plain, as you knitted them in the front, and then cast off very loosely. Sew up the sides of the vest, leaving a good arm- hole. Crochet a row of holes round the neck, and then over the holes a small scallop of a few simple treble with I double crochet between. Crochet an edge to correspond with the neck round the sleeves. Run a string through the holes in the neck if you think necessar)'. The plan above shown for making the back, prevents any uimecessary fulness across the shoulders, so does not fill up the dress, while the arrangement of the front gives a comfortable and becoming fit over the bust, which only needs to be tried to be appreciated. Scarf Stitch in Knitting. Over with the wool, knit i, purl i, take 2 together. Every row aUke. Have a few plain stitches at the beginning and end of the row. It is also well to begin your work with a few plain rows, and end with the same. Another Pattern. 1st row — knit I, wool lorward, sUp I, knit 2, pass the shpped stitch over the 2 kiitted ones. Purl the back row. Repeat the pattern row, and the purl row. If you do not like purling — and few people do — you might try on a small piece whether you object to the appearance of the work with the back row plain. Another. No. S or 9 pins for single Berlin or fingering, and No. 6 or 7 pins for double Berlin or fleecy. The pattern takes 4 stitches, ist row — * take 2 together, wool forward, knit i, purl I, repeat from * . Every row alike. Always knit 2 plain stitches at the beginning and end of the row. Fringe the ends by knotting in a few strands of wool at intervals along the ends. Use a crochet- hook to pull them through. If you have two colours, us8 a little of the trimming colour in the fringe. Pattern for Vest or Comforter. Cast on any number that will di\-ide by 4 and leave 3 over, ist row — * knit 2, purl 2, repeat firom * till you have only I stitch left. Purl the odd stitch. 2nd row and every row— same as the first. This is a very good pattern, being close and yet elastic. Especially good for warm com- forters. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. ■QUICKLY DONE BRAID WORK. Part I. In a previous work we spol;e of the beautiful results from the patience of the early workers with the ncedl.e. In this one we will discuss one or two methods of making very pretty things with a very small expenditure of either money or trouble. Two sorts of braid are used for this work, — (i) an antimacassar braid, (2) an edging or trimming braid. The braid is sold on cards containing a dozen yards, and the cards range in price from ^d. to is. 2d., according to the size of the braid. The antimacassar braid is similar to point lace braid, but is a liltle more substantial, to allow ^ of its being crocheted upon ,■ and the trimming and edging braid is like Cordon braid, with small pieces of point lace braid at short, regular intervals. You can buy the braid with a larger or smaller number of picots (as we will call each division of the point braid portion) according to the width you wish your edging to be. A DEEP Edging. I HAVE been very explicit in the following edging, because all braid edging of this class can be adapted after this manner. They can be broader or narrower, but the principles of working are the same. The one detailed can be adapted for nearly anything. It will trim under-linen if made a little narrower, and as it stands would border an antimacassar. Of fine materials it would make pretty cufls for house wear. There are a good many stars or asterisks in the following patterns. To prevent mistakes I would just remind rny readers always to repeat from the last * unless it is otherwise expressly stated. A reference to the engraving will show at once which are the point picots. In this edging braid we have four of them alternating with a short length of Cordon braid. The Cordon portion forms the top and bottom of the edging and the point picots the body of the work. The pattern is worked with fine hook and No. 30 sewing cotton. It is a matter of taste if you use crochet or sewing cotton. It is said by some that sewing cotton washes better ; my own feelings are in fiivour of crochet cotton for many things, and knitting cotton for others, such as very large loose antimacassars. There are about 12 loops on each side of the Cordon portion, and 4 loops on each side of each point picot. To begin — make a double crochet into the 6th loop of the cordon portion, i chain I double crochet into the 7th loop, 6 chain I double crochet into the nth loop ; *^* 7 chain 1 double crochet into the 2nd loop of the first point picot, I chain I double erochet into the 3rd loop of the same picot ; * * * | 7 chain I double crochet into the and loop of the 2nd picot, I chain i double crochet into the 3rd loop of the same picot, 7 chain 1 double crochet into the 2nd loop of the 3rd picot, i chain i double crochet into the third loop of the same picot. Complete the last of the four picots in the same way. To turn the end— i chain miss 2 loops of the cordon braid, I treble into the 3rd loop, i treble into the next loop, * miss a loop, i treble into the next loop to the one 3'ou have missed, i treble into the next loop to that. Repeat from * once. I chain i double crochet into the 2nd loop of the first picot of the next set of picots, i chain i double crochet into the 3rd loop of the same picot. In working up this set of point picots you join them to the side already done. To do this — make * 3 chain (after finishing the last double crochet), row slip the needle out of the loop, and put it through the middle one of the 7 chain on the other side, which are immediately opposite to the place at which you are working. Draw the loop you slipped off the needle through this middle chain, then make 3 chain more, i double crochet into the 2nd loop of the next picot, I chain i double crochet into the 3rd loop of the same picot, now repeat from * until all the picots are joined. There -will appear to be three joins between the sets of picots ; * * * you must make a fourth join at the top in the same manner, and when you have completed it and made the 3 chain, make I double crochet into the 2nd loop of the cordon part of the braid. Now make 6 chain and put I double crochet into the 6th loop, I chain i double crochet into the 7th loop, 6 chain i double crochet into the nth loop, and repeat from * * to the end of your braid. To do the second and last row of the pattern — i double crochet into the 2nd loop of the first picot on the outside edge of the braid, * i chain, i double crochet into the 3rd loop, and work from * * * to *_ * in the previous directions. Now make 2 chain and join them to the hole made by the I chain in the picot on which you began your second row, make 2 chain again and make a slip stitch back again to the last picot on which vou were working, 2 chain into the first loop of the Cordon braid. Now make * 5 chain I treble into the first of the 5. This makes a little loop or picot which forms the edge. Slip stitch into the next loop but one in the Cordon. Repeat from * for live times more making 6 in all. It may require a little coaxing to get the 6 in rightl)', make I chain and I double into the 2nd loop of the next picot, repeat from the ist * in the 2nd and last row of pattern and repeat to the end of the braid. For the top the following will do — double crochet into the middle little hole of the top made by the one chain between the two double crochet, * 5 chain i treble into the next hole, 7 chain i treble into the hole which corre- sponds pn the opposite side, 5 chain i double crochet into the middle hole which I pointed out before. Repeat from *. 2nd row of top — * i treble I chain, miss a loop, i treble into the next loop, repeat from * to the end. If preferred, you can make 2 chain and miss 2 loops in this and row. It is a matter of taste and patience. Antimacassar Braid and its Use. This can be made into various articles. The following is a good and elegant design for toilette mats or antimacassar stripes. It will be best to copy from the engraving as it will be easier to do that than follow written ch'rections. See figure 2. I should perhaps remark that the mat, of which a section is given, has, I think, been washed. To begin the work — rule a square or oblong on a stiff foundation, such as brown paper or some- thing similar. Lay the braid carefully along the line, and tack it firmly, joining it very neatly (invisibly if possible), after you have cut it oft'. Then lay the strips of cross braids and fasten off the ends very closely and firmly. Take a needle and fine cotton and work across froin one loop to the other in a square until all in that square are regularly joined. Now make a wheel in the centre of every square. Be sure to fasten the end very securely before cutting it oflT, or you can manage as is done in the co)5y — run theend through the work to the next square. This is an especially agreeable pattern for those who are iond of needlew^ork, but who like to see a good result in a short time. The following will be found useful suggestions perhaps for the arrangement of the above pattern. Toilette Cushion to match the Mats. Work a square of the size desired. * Either make the under part of muslin, or work it the same as the top. Make a cushion the proper size, and cover with silk (if possible) the col-.ur of the centres of the mats. If you have not silk, use the best you have conveniently. Now put on your worked cover, and finish with a quilling of satin ribbon to match the silk. Watch-hooks also to match the above. These are sometimes made square, and could be made to match the cushions. Make a square of lace as before, but of course smaller than your cushion. Before making it decide on the size of your hooks, also whether you will have the lace exactly the size of the foundation card or a little larger, like an edge all round. If the cushion has nothing but the quilling round it, neither should the liooks. When the braid lace is made, cover your square of card with the same material as the cushion. Line neatly, and have the edges perfectly evenly sewed. Now put on your lace. Sew the hook firmly in the centre. ©Trim with a quilling to match the cushion if you like, or let the lace be all the ornament. It will look very pretty. If you have no quilling you will require a small bow at the top, where it is pinned to the bed or tacked to the wall. It is best to sew a piece of tape to the back under the bow to fasten it up by. You can if you like have the watch-hook with a material centre like the mats. In case you should fancy that the hooks are a little old-fashioned, it would be quite possible to make WATCH-rOCKETS AND EeD-POCKET Op squarish shapes, and trim them with the lace braid across the front. Either these or the hooks above would be a little uncommon and be a pretty addition to any room in which they were placed. Braid Insertion. Suitable for play pinafores, or anything wanted quicklj'. One treble into a loop * i chain, I treble, into the next loop, repeat from * till all the loops on one picot have treble in them, now make * 6 chain, and put I treble into the first loop of the next THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. picoti repeat I chain, I treble into the next loop, until the loops have each a treble in them, on that picot. Now repeat from * to the end of the length of braid. 2nd row—* two double crochet "between each of the treble in the previous row, 8 double crochet into the hole made by the 6 chain in the previous row. Repeat from *. Do the other side of the braid in the same way. Another Insertion. Four treble into the first loop on the first picot, * 2 treble into the next loop. Repeat from * until you come to the last loop on the picot. Put 4 treble into the last loop. Now work 4 treble into the first loop of the next picot. Repeat from the first *. — 2nd row — two treble between the second treble and the third * miss 2 treble and put 2 treble between the treble you missed and the next two. Repeat from , until you have 2 treble between every 2 treble in the picot in the previous row. There will be 7 sets in the picot. Now make 2 chain and put 2 treble between the 2nd and 3rd treble of the next picot. By this you will see you miss 4 treble between the picols. Repeat from the first * in the second row. Do the other side of the braid in the same manner. These insertions are suitable for substantial material. If a very fine insertion is desired the following would serve perhaps. See figure 4. Fine Insertion. Feather pattern or any knitting pattern which can be worked in stripes such as those which appear in this and previous issues ot the WoKK-BASKEr, and mike good insertions when knitted in fine cotton with suitable needles. When well worked with proper cotton they are ex- cellent for trimming infant's clothing of all descrip- tions. Very Handsome Mats for Toilettk, &c. Suitable for Bazaar or Present. These mats have a worked border, and centre of plush silk, velvet cretonne, or any convenient material. To begin with : arrange how many mats you will have, and their size. Having done this, rule on a foundation as directed above the outside edge of the mat. Now rule a line inside that, the distance from the edge to be regulated by the width you wish your border to be. It is better to make the lace border before cutting out the centre, because the braid must have proper room to lie flat, and it may take up a J of an inch more or less than the space you have ruled. When the outside line of braid is tacked perfectly straight and regular on your foundation, put two or three lines of braid according to choice, or only one even, if for a small mat, down each side. Do the same at the ends, and then fill in the small cross bars of braid down the sides. When all is arranged, put in the net work and wheels. The tiresome part will be fastening off the ends of the cross bars properly, but a little patience will soon accomplish that, and it is worth the trouble. When each square is properly filled up, remove the work from the foundation. Cut (he material slightly larger than the space in the centre. Either line or overcast the edges, then place it flat on the table. Now arrange your border properly. It should just come nicely over the edge of the material. Pin it into position, and tack firmly to the material of the mat, that is, the centre. If ^vishcd very handsome, a flower could be embroidered in crewels or silks in the centre of the mat, and, if the work was mod- U erately fine, it would be a very good substitute for the point lace borders, at a cost of much less time and trouble. Antimacassar. In tne present issue of the Fancy Work- Gaskkt will be found a suggestion for an antimacassar. Any lady desirous of making an antimacassar of that description, of her own work entirely, and at a small expense, could , carry out the directions there given. The lace ; for the border might be of the kind given in the beginning of this paper. If stripes of braid • work were arranged with some good washing 1 material embroidered with washing crewels, the \ result would be very good, and woidd form an acceptable and durable wedding present ; and, may I add, would in many instances be valued more highly than a costlier gift, of which the donor had perhaps only been at the trouble of selecting from other articles at an expensive bazaar. Thoroughly good work is alw.ays of more or less value according to its class. Never despise a thing because the material of which it is made was of small cost. Measure it by the value of the work which has been bestowed upon it. The costliest jewel requires endless time and patience expended upon it, before its full beauty can be shown or appreciated to its full extent. In lace needlework, the value consists of the quality and quantity of the work expended on the compara- tively valueless material. FERN WORK. A PRETTY METHOD OF SCREENING BACK WIN- DOWS, DOING UP OLD SIDE-TABLES, CHAIRS, &C. MIGHT BE ADAPTED FOR VASES, FANS, WHAT-NOTS, AND OTHER ARTICLES. Any lady who is fond of botanising can use up lerns she has collec'.ed in many pretty ways. I have seen some exquisite effects proiJuced from pressed ferns something after the following manners. The 2nd method given might be used for fans, I should think ; the edges and handles done with gold. 1st. They can be used to make screens or \vindows pretty, by gumming or otherwise fastening them in elegant designs on glass, and then having a piece of glass put over them. I have seen windows which had an objectionable outlook very prettily screened in this manner, and of course with the glass over the ferns and grasses, the arrangement is comparatively permanent. 2nd. Another botanising friend has ornamented several articles, including a chair and a table which looked at first sight most unpromising and non-resthetic. Her first proceeding was to thoroughly clean them. She then painted them well and evenly with ordinary black paint, and whilst the paint was still wet and fresh done, the ferns were gently spread over or dropped on to llie pnint in the positions they were to occupy. To do this satisfactorily, you must make your design beforehand, as when once the pieces are put on the paint they must lie, or the marks would show, and the fern perhaps be broken. This, however, is quite easy, as a careless, graceful arrangement is best. The ferns must be pressed a little wlicre possible without touching the paint. If, when the paint is dry, any of the ferns do not seem firm, a little something to stick them must be put under- neath them. When all are dry and fixed, varnish with one or two coats of good vatTii^h. Finish, if wished, with a little of jiidsun's gold paint in the mouldings, and round ihe edges. When all is carefully set and hard, po!i-,li carefully seveial limes at intervals with furniUire polish. ' This takes off the unpleas.ant stickiness, and cire should be taken not to place anything in (he way of paper or light things on the new paint, as it bits of paper or thread stick to it they are tiresome, and you have sometimes to wash them ofi", which sptiils the varnish. I understand thai, v-ath care and an occasional fresh coat of varnish, the work will last a long time. I know it looks very pretty, and it has the great recommendation of costing little. That which I saw looked almost inlaid. The common cranes-bill looked very pretty mixed with the ferns, its warm-coloured leaves being quite an addiiion. Sofa Blanket. Knitted Cable Pattern, Single Berlin wool of any colour preferred. The stripes may be knitted entirely in one colour, or in shades of different colours ; if the latter, work 3 rows with each shaile. Knitting pins No. 9. Cast on 20 stitches, isirow — slip 1, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, purl 11, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together. 2nd row — slip I, make I, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 togelher, knit II, make I, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together. 3rd row — slip I, make I, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, purl 4, turn, and now knit for the cable as follows, on the 4 purled sti:ches only ; *slip I, knit 3, turn ; slip I, purl 3, turn ; repeat from* until you have done 10 of these little rows; then draw the needle out of the 4 stitches, and leaving the cable on the right side of the knitting (the side away from you), take 4 stitches from the .eft-hand needle on to the right-hand needle, pick up the 4 stitches of ihe cable on the right-hand needle again, and knit off the remaining stitches from the left-hand needle by purling 3, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together. 4th row — same as the 2nd row ■■ 5th row — same as the 1st row. 6th row — slip i, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit4, turn, and knit for another cable on the 4 plain stitches only ; *slip I, purl 3, turn ; slip I, knit 3, turn ; repeat from* until you have done 10 Httle rows ; then draw the needle out of the 4 stitches, and leaving the cable again on the right side of the knitting (this time the side next you), take 4 stitches from the left-hand needle on to the right- hand needle, pick up the 4 stitches of the cable, and knit off the remaining stitches from the left- hand needle l5y knitting 3, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together. Repeat from the 1st row for the length required. The stripes may be sewn together, or joined by a row of double crochet. Knitted Open Hem Stitch. Set on any number of stitches that is divisible by four. Slip the first stitch of each row, knit the second, put the cotton over the pin to make a stitch, knit two together, repeat from * to the end of the row. All the rows are knitted exactly the same as this one, but the whole pattern depends on the number of stitches being divisible by four. The pattern is ver)' simple and ver)* pretty, forming a kind of herring-bone stitch in alternate rows witij solid knittiniT. Sofa Cushion in Shell P.\ttern. Make a chain the length of your cushion, or the length you wish it to be, and 4 chain over. For every shell you reckon 2 stitches and 4 over to begin. Work in sliell pattern until the side is large enough. Break off. Make the same number of chain and work a piece for the other side. Sew the two together, and work a handsome scalloped border for the edge where the two sides join. For colour, choose one that harmonises or contrasts well with your room. Crimson looks well with dark furniture, especially if the covering of the chaii's be a very dark maroon, brown, or black Blue would look well with old gold. A pretty w.ay to shade the wool is to begin with a dark shade, and go on making each row lighter, for three or four rows, according to the size of the cushion, till you come to your light shade. Then make each row darker till you come to the dark shade again. You might have two rows of the dark, and let it come exactly in the centre of the cushion. Finish that side of the cushion as directed, shading into light and then into dark again at the extreme edge. The other side could be in a rich plain crimson, or in contrasting colours, according to taste. A quick worker would make the whole or at least the greater part of a cushion in an evening. THE FANCY WORK-BASKEt. NETTING. The method of netting is simple, but the *oitk Tvtieii dr>7ie can be put to various uses, from the useful fisherman's net to the elegant antimacassar or d'oyley. Netting can be made plain, square, oblong, or round : but the stitch is nearly the same in all. Simple netting is worked on a foundation. In the smple netting, various patterns can be made. Square Netting. The following method is that used for making the squares of guipure d'art, and will answer for any size of square. Commence by making one loop. 2nd row — put two loops into the one loop. 3rd row — increase by putting two loops into the last loop of the row. Every row is like the 3vd row, that is, you always increase a stitch every row by putting two stitches or loops (they are the same) into the last stitch or loop of the previous row. Your work will be in the shape of a half square. VVhen large enough, decrease by taking two stitches together at the end of every row. This vnll presently decrease the number of loops to one. The square is then finished. To MAKE Oblong Netting for Blinds, Antimacassars, &c. Proceed as for a square, until the straight sides of your netting are as wide as you wish the end of your oblong to be. Now open your work out, and you will see you have the end and part of one side of the oblong. You will see further that one side of your work appears much longer than the other. The principle of working now is this. Always increase a stitch at the end of one row, and decrease a stitch at the end of the next row. Thus you always keep the same number of loops at the end of every two rows, instead of constantly increasing. Remember always to increase at the end of the row on the long side, and decrease at the end of the return row on the short side. When the long side is as long as you wish your oblong to be, work again as if you were doing a squai'e ; that is, decrease at the end of every row by taking two stitches together until you have only one loop left. Break oiT the cotton. To Darn Netting. Use Trafalgar cotton, 3^-. bd. per lb. A small quantity only will be needed. You will need some geometrical or conventional design ; state what the design is for when you buy it. In darning, remember — i. To choose a moderately simple, but well-marked pattern. 2. Always take up the stitch you left down in the last row of darning. 3 Work very evenly, leaving no loops ; and do not draw the work too tight, or it will be utterly spoiled. 4. Use a moderately small size of mesh, not more than a J-inch flat mesh, or a No. 6, 7, or S knitting-needle, will do as well. It is not at all unusual to buy a piece of machine-made net, instead of working the netting. It is a great saving of time, and machine-made net is of course more even than hand-made. In cases where it is not indispensable to have " one's own work " this is a very good plan. The Netting Stitch. This should perhaps have appeared at the head of the article, but it will do here as well. To begin with, it is necessary to have the work fastened to something ; either a leaden cushion or a stirrup. This latter article can be made very fancifully, or a simple piece of tape or string will answer every purpose. A pretty stirrup and an elegant piece of netting will show off a dainty foot to perfection. That of course is by the way. We will assume you have utilised a piece of string for a trial, and wound your cotton on the needle, and that you have your mesh ready. Now tie the end of the cotton to the foundation tape or string, and put your foot of course through the string to hold it firm. * Take your mesh and "hold it between the forefinger and thumb ; now, with the right hand take the needle, and bring the cotton over the mesh, over the middle and third fingers ; now take it up behind the middle and third fingers, and behind the mesh as well, but in front of the fore- finger ; and then hold it down under your thumb. You have now, putting it simply, a loop round your middle and third fingers and the mesh; the end of the thread making the loop being held under your thumb. 2nd movement ; keep your thumb still on that thread, but bring the needle down at the back of the hand round the outside of the little finger ; then put the needle under the mesh through the loop, and into the foundation string. Draw the needle through the foundation string in front of the two threads which appear to lie behind. Slip the loop off the middle and third fingers first ; draw the cotton until that porton of the knot is brought tightly to the outside or furthest edge of the mesh ; lastly, slip oft the loop from the little finger, and draw that up quickly and tightly. This last loop, if drawn up properly, prevents the work from slipping. Repeat from *. Of course, your mesh is more easy to hold in position, as it has a stitch on it now. The netting knot is rather difficult to describe ; it is done directly, but the above instructions may possibly help anyone to do the work. The work of netting is very old indeed. It used to be called knotting. It was a great accomplishment among the women of ancient Egypt, and Pliny tells us that it was so fine that " a whole net could be passed through a man's ring." To make a Foundation. Begin four or five stitches. 2nd row, net 2 loops into each of them ; 3rd row, plain ; 4th row, increase as in the second row ; 5th row, plain as the third row. Repeat the increasing row and the plain row until you have as many stitches as are required, then do a few plain rows, about six or eight. Use a large mesh and substantial cotton in preparing the foundation, until you have the full number of stitches ; then use a mesh and cotton suited to the work you are going to do. To detach the work from the foundation wheir it is completed, cut each loop of the last row of the foundation as close as you possibly can to the knots in the first row of your work. You will then be able to separate the two veiy easily. Shawl in Netting. Materials : — Berlin wool, single or double, or good fingering ; mesh to taste. Half an inch is quite large enough. If double Berlin is used, have a larger mesh if you like. Have a good sized netting needle so as not to need to join your wool so often. Colour, crimson or blue. Proceed as detailed above for a square. Either net a border, or if a heavier one is preferred, crochet one round the edge. To net the border, the following suggestions would perhaps be useful. Do 3 or 4 rounds with the small mesh ; that is, the mesh you have done the body of the shawl with. Then take a large mesh about an inch broad, and do one plain round, remembering always to keep the corners flat. Now do a few rounds of English netting, or fancy netting, as it is sometimes called. The English netting will be explained further on. When you have a handsome stripe of the fancy netting, finish off with plain rounds done with whichever mesh you prefer to use. English or Fancy Netting. Five rows are really required for a full stripe, but more or less can be worked as wished. 1st row, plain. 2nd row, net the second stitch, then the first ; now net the fourth, and then go back and net the third. Go on in this manner, missing a stitch, and then going back and netting it to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain netting; 4th row, do one stitch plain, then net the 3rd stitch ; then go back and net the 2nd. Now do the 5th stitch, then the 4th, the 7th, and then the 6th ; and so on to the end of the row. 5th row, plain. Window Curtains. These can be done two ways. No. 10 cotton. I. Net an oblong according to detailed directions and then darn it ; first, of course, seeing it is the correct size : or 2. They can be netted on a foun- dation, the pattern made by using different sizes of meshes, aird having stripes of fancy-knitting worked between the plain stripes. The body of the curtain should be done with a tolerably firie mesh, as there is no darning upon it. No. 9 or 10 would serve. The English netting detailed above is a good stripe. No. 10 cotton, as mentioned above, is a very usual and useful size to use. About 160 loops would make a curtain for an ordinary window, but it would not be very full. It is better to try a small piece with the cotton you are going to use, and see how many loops it takes to make 3 inches, and then calculate the width you wish. Of course, a good deal depends on the size of the mesh used. If the curtain should not happen to be as wide as you wish it, you can easily put a border like the one suggested for the shawl. Very Elegant Cloud. Use a medium sized mesh, and Andalusian wool Either make an oblong, or work from a foundation of say 160 stitches. If you work from a foun- dation you can have stripes of a different colour at the ends of the cloud. Put any border you like. BEDROOM SLIPPER FOR A CHILD OF TEN YEARS OLD. In Russian Crochet. Pretty and Very Useful. Materials : Crimson or any colour of single Berlin or, what is better and firmer, Berlin finger- ing or ordinary German wool. Small crochet hook, about No. 11 or 12, and one pair of good cork soles, No. 13. If the soles are not bound when you buy them you had better add a piece of warm flannel to what will be the inside of the sole, and bind the flannel and the sole together with good braid. Make a chain of 12 stitches. 1st row — turn, miss I loop, * i double crochet into the back of the next loop. Repeat from * till you have worked 5 double crochet, now j)Ut 3 double crochet into the back of the next loop, which is the middle one, then work I double crochet into each of the remaining loops ; there will be 5, making 13 loops altogether in the first row. 2nd row — i chain, turn (the chain does not count as a stitch), i double crochet into the back of the first double crochet of the previous row, * I double into the next stitch, and repeat from * till you come to the middle stitch, work 3 double crochet stitches into the middle stitch or loop, then work i double crochet into each of the remaining loops of the row ; in every case work into the back loop of every stitch in any and every previous row. 3rd row — I double crochet into the back part of every loop. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until you can count 12 ridges, now work backwards and forwards on 1 1 stitches only, to form the side of the slipper ; when the side is long enough to reach the middle of the heel at the back, measuring rather closely, break off the wool. Work on 1 1 stitches to form the other side in the same way ; join the work neatly up the back and crochet a scallop border across the instep and round the ankle, thus : I double crochet into a loop, *miss 2 loops, 5 treble into the next loop, miss 2 loops, miss 2 loops again, I double into the next loop, which is the hird from the one with the treble in it. Repeat from * all round. Try to make the scallops come even over the instep. To make up : pin the middle of the toe of the crochet to the middle of the toe of the sole. The toe of the crochet will be a little wider than the toe of the sole. This is intentional, and the fulness must be sewn round the toe of the sole to raise the tee as in an ordinary boot, thereby adding much to the comfort. When the crochet is firmly sewn to the sole all round, finish by adding a ribbon rosette in front to match the colour of the wool. Elastic or ribbon can be added round the ankle, but in most cases it will be un- necessary. CROCHET REINS. Veiy nice crochet reins can be made by cro- cheting round the curtain cord till you get them the right thickness for the armholes and then making the straps of strips of double crochet two inches wide. In working the double crochet always work through 2 loops of the stitch in the previous row, it is firmer. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET- BABY'S KNITTED SHOE, [p^!|ATERIALS:— Any wool you have by Sara i y°" °^ ^ ^°^^ description and which is not lEagJII too fine. Berlin, or good fingering will serve. Andalusian or merino will make it a size smaller than the Berlin. No. 13 or 14 pins. Cast on 20 stitches. The shoe part is in plain knitting, ist row — plain knitting. Make 1 at the beginning of the row. 2nd row — the same. Make I at the beginning of every row until you have 24 stitches. Now increase at the beginning of every other row. This brings all the increasings to one end. Proceed in this manner till you have worked about ij inches in depth. There will be about 8 ribs of plain knitting, and you will have about 30 stitches on the needle. Cast off loosely 13 stitches at that end of the needle at which there are no increasings. Now go on working, increasing at the same end where you increased before and in the same manner until you have worked f of an inch on what were the 17 stitches, or until you have 14 plain ribs in the widest part, and about 24 stitches on the needle. You must now decrease every alternate row until you have reduced your stitches to 17 again. Now cast on 13 at the end where there are no decreasings to correspond with the 13 you cast off on the other side. Work on the 30 stitches, not forgetting to decrease as directed until you have 24 stitches. You now de- crease at the beginning of every row until you have 20 stitches. Cast off. Your work should be the shape of the diagram. Take up the stitches round the ankle, that is you take up the 1 3 you cast off, and 13 across the front and 13 again on the other side, which you cast on. Purl a row. Now make a row of holes for the ribbon in this way : * wool forward, take 2 together ; repeat from * to the end of the row ; work the remainder of the leg in brioche knitting ; about I J inches of brioche will be suffi- cient ; cast off and sew up the shoe. To sew up, fold the shoe in half, wrong side out; now sew very softly the back of the leg and the bottom of the sole to the end of the straight part of the sole ; now sew together about 3 stitches or a quarter of an inch of the slanting sides of the toe. To close the toe, fold the point until it meets the place where you left off seaming the sole. It looks like a trian- gle whevr folded underneath. Catch the point to the place where you left off seaming, and then sew the few stitches necessary on each side of the point as flatly as possible. This plan makes a comfort- able toe, and all the joins are out of sight. When the sock is sewn up crochet a pretty little scallop round the top of the sock. Either run a ribbon in or make a chain instead of a ribbon about 15 inches long ; run it through the holes and add a tassel to each end. Tie the ribbon or cord, and your shoe should present the appearance of finished engraving This size is for a short chubby foot. The sock can be made any length by casting on i or 2 more stitches. The ankle can be made deeper and the width can be increased by doing a row or two extra across the instep. Fancy knitting is fiequcnt- ly introduced with good effect up the front of the ankle. Colour, entirely a matter of taste. As a suggestion the model is in coral and white. INFANT'S WARM GAITER AND BOOT COMBINED, for winter out of door wear. The above sock, knitted a little larger and quite plainly, can be made into a boot gaiter very easily. Knit the boot and ankle a comfortable size, and when about ij inches of the ankle are worked, in- crease a stitch or two at the back every few rows until you think it wide enough to go over the knee comfortably. When you have it the right width go on knitting until long enough to tie without dragging over the knee. Make a row of holes for the string, then a few plain rows. Cast off. Add a ribbon or string and the gaiter is complete. INFANT'S SHAWL HOOD. Materials : — Shetland wool of any desired colour, and crochet needle No. 7 or 8. For the commence- ment a finer hook can be used with advantage. To begin — make 10 chain, i treble into the 4th from the end, miss a loop, 2 treble into the next loop to the one you missed, 2 treble into the next loop but one, I treble into the last loop. 2nd row — turn, 3 chain, I treble into the 1st hole, 2 treble into the next hole, I treble between the last 2 treble of the previous row, or if you like to put it into the last one of the 2 treble, you can do so. 3rd row — turn. Repeat the 2nd row. 4th row — ■ the same. You have now a small square mat, each row composed of 3 sets of 2 treble, and I odd treble. At the end of the 4th row you have a small hole formed by the i treble at the end of the row. Make 3 chain, I treble into that hole, 2 chain, 2 treble into the same hole. * Now put 3 sets at equal distances from one another (of 2 treble to each set) between the corner you have just done and the next comer, and put into the corner hole 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble. Repeat from * until you have done all lour sides. There will not always be a hole for your sets of treble to be put into, but when there is no hole put them into a stitch. When you have made your 3 sets of treble and the proper corners all round, do not join the round, but take the larger needle, No. 7 or 8, and work a corner into the middle of the comer that you first made in the previous round. Work into the corner 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble. This way will enable you to work round and round. Now work 2 treble into each hole along the sides, and put 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into the comer holes. When the shawl gets larger you may find you have to increase more at the corners. When this is the case, the corners in the succeeding rounds will perhaps be different. For instance, Ist round of extra increase you put 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, 1 chain, 2 treble into the corner hole. This gives 2 holes in each corner when the row is done. 2nd round of special increase — 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble into the 1st hole of the comer, and 2 treble, 1 chain, 2 treble into the next hole of the corner. This gives a corner with 2 sets of 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble, and a hole between them. Next round — Work as usual, putting the usual set of 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into the centre hole of the corner which is between the 2 sets of increase in the previous row. Increase in the above manner as often as needful. You may, if you like, work a 3rd increasing row immediately after tha 2nd and before doing the usual row, but the 2 given will probably be enough. Keep the shawl flat and a good shape until nearly large enough. Have the shawl a good size. When about 4 or 4J inches less than you wish the entire size to be, leave off increasing at one of the corners. This shapes the hood. When it is large enough, put a scallop border round the shawl, making it fuller, if preferred, at that corner which is to form the hood portion. The following scallop will perhaps please you. It looks very pretty and open, anr! is simple. Please observe there are sets of 2 treble and a hole between all round the shawl, a For the border — 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 tre!;le into a hole, * I chain, 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble into the next hole but one. Repeat from *. 2nd row (we will call each of the sets of 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble in the last row, a picot) — double crochet into the hole between the pieots, i chain, 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into the middle of the picot, * I chain, i double crochet into the hole between the picot just worked and the next picot, i chain, 2 treVJe, 2 chain, 2 treble into the centre of the next picot, repeat from *. If you wish for more elaborate scallops you will find several in this issue of the Fancy Wokk- BiSKEr. Wlien the border is complete, run a ribbon in a .slightly curved line (th» outside of the curve to be towards the middle of the shawl) across the hood comer of the shawl. This shapes the hood to the neck. It is better to use 2 pieces of ribbon, and tie them into a bow at the back of the neck. The ends of the ribbon at each side form the strings. Draw up the work to fit the face and tie the ribbon in a bow at the top of the head. You will require about 2 yards. If you wish to be economical, or happen to have a yard or two ol suitable ribbon for strings by you, get a yard of narrow ribbon to shape the hood, and sew a bow at the back of the neck and the top of the head, and sew on strings of a proper length, the bows and strings being of a broader and better ribbon. This latter plan will sei-ve equally well if the ma- terials used are soft. On no account use anything harsh. If any difficulty is felt as to the size or shape of the shawl hood, Mrs. Leach has a very pretty one illustrated in No. 6$ of the Children's Dressmaker. The shawl hood last mentioned is No. 150, and the price of the pattern is, I believe, 3 stamps. This pattern might be of use in shaping the hood to those who feel diffident about that part; but if the directions given above are faithfully followed, very little trouble will be experienced in making the whole article pretty and comfortable. Antimacassar. Rich looki.ng. This style of antimacassar can be made in costly or inexpensive materials. To make a very handsome one, purchase some rich satin or other description of ribbon about 4 inches wide ; eiiher use it plain, or embroider a ti-ailing design in silks and crewels upon the 3 strips. Join them by two pieces of insertion lace about the same width as the ribbon. Hem the ends of both lace and ribbon before joining. Put an edge of deep lace to match the insertion all round the antimacassar, uniting the lace firmly and invisibly at one corner. If required very handsome for a wedding present, ■Sic, silk cord to match the ribbon might be put length- ways to border the insertion, and round the edge where the lace is sewn on to the silk. We have seen plush used instead of si k or satin j but it requires careful management and soon crushes. The edges of the plush would require to be sewn down underneath, so that the hemming would not be seen. The following would look well and be very unique : — Stripes of grey velvet with a trailing design of Itius executed in spatter work, and bordered as stated above by a cord where the lace joined on to the velvet. Rich crimson cord would relieve the grey of the velvet and the cream of the lace. If all these are too expensive, execute the same design in simpler materials. You can carry the above instructions out in imitation lace, and very suitable pieces of silk or velvet or ribbons can be met with on most reasonable terms at the sales, or in the ribbon baskets on the counters of our large drapery shops. A yard of really good cretonne will make stripes for two antimacassars, and if the pattern and colour are appropriate, looks sutii- ciently well for daily use. Now Re dr. Price 2d. of all Booksellers. Mrs. Leach's Washing and Laundry Check Book. E. S. Cartwkicht, S, Joliuson's Court, Fleet Street, E.C. sae THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Home-made Hearthrugs and Mats. Materials required : a piece of harden the size and shape the mat or rug is to be, prepared as for sewing cloth on : cuttings of woollen or cotton goods. Cut the pieces in squares, two inches makes a nice size, fold to a half square, then fold again ; it is now a half square, four thicknesses. Sew firmly on the harden close to each other. Take care to have all the open edges one way, and every row to cover the sewing of the preceding row, and the points of one row to come between ihe two points of tlie row before it. These rugs may be worked straight across, but a prettier way is to work round, a few rows of black first for a border, and finish off tidily in the centre. Scarlet flannel cuttings have a lively effect. Another Way. Prepare the pieces the same as before, double them to a half square, then bring both the out- side corners to the centra one, sew on the same as the other. This way is prettier than the other. Both ways may be done in patterns according to the taste of the worker. When dresses are worn, tear or cut them in lengths, about one inch broad, or according to the thickness of the stuff, as on this greatly depends the beauty of the work ; sew them together, and knit on strong iron needles. About 30 stitches make a nice width to lie at the side of a kitchen table. A piece the same width witli a piece of 6 stitches knitted, and seven round makes a nice rug for a kitchen. Leaf and Trellis Pattern for Anti- macassaks or Hangings. Materials : — No. 12 knitting cotton if for hangings, fine pins with knobs at the ends. The pattern takes 21 stitches, but it is best to cast on a few more, so as to have an even edge, or if for hangings, to knit a lace along both edges. Cast on 130 if for hanging, and add as many as will be required for lace. 1st row — purl. 2nd row — knit 6* (make X, take 2 together three times), make i, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 10, repeat from *. 3rd row — purl. 4th row — knit 2,* talce 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit i, (make i, take 2 together four limes), knit 7, repeat from *. 5th row — purl. 6th row— knit I,* take 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 3, (make i, take 2 together 3 times), make 1, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 3. Is-Cpeat from*. 7th row — purl. Sth row — * take 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 5, (make i, take 2 together 3 times), make i, knit 2, take 2 together, knit i. Repeat from *. gth row — purl. 10th row — knit 3,* make i, knit 7, (make i, take 2 together 3 limes), make I, knit 2, slip I, take 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over the last stitch, knit 2, Repeat fro'.n *. iithrow — purl. 12th row — take 2 together, knit 7,* take 2 together, and make i 4 times, (the make 1 comes last,) knit I, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 7. Repeat from *. 13th row — purl. 14th row — knit 5,* talce 2 together, knit 2, (make I, take 2 together 3 times), malce I, knit 3, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from*. 15th row — purl. l6[h row — knit 4,* take 2 together, knit 2, (make I, take 2 together 3 times,) make i, knit 5, make I, knit 2, take 2 together, knit i. Repeat from *. 17th row — purl. I Sth row — knit 3, take 2 together, knit 2,* (make i, take 2 together 3 times,) make I, knit "], make i, knit 2, slip i, take 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over the last stitch, knit 2. Repeat from *. Repeat frovn 3rd row for required length. Child's Petticoat. Suitable from i to 4 Years Old. The difference in size can be made almost entirely by the size of needles and quality of wool used. For a baby, use Andalusian wool and No. 9 crochet needle, and a pair of No. 9 knitting needles, and No. 13 steel knitting needles. Make a chain the length you wish for the width of your petticoat. It should divide by 8 and leave 4 over. Have it a little wide in the first place, as the chain takes up in working, and all crochet and knitting (as I have mentioned before) pulls down a little when you begin to wear it.9 Perhaps 32 inches for the entire length of the chain, or 252 stitches will do. Unite into a round. Now make 5 treble, one after the other, all into the 4th chain stitch from where you join the round. Now make one doublecrochet into the 4lhchain from theone where you put the 5 treble. * iSIiss 3 chain, 5 treble into the next, miss 3 chain, one double crochet into the next. Repeat from * to the end of the round. The odd 4 stitches should enable you to put the last double crochet into the middle stitch of the 1st picot, this makes the beginning of ihe 2nd round. You must try and do this with a little coaxing. 2nd round. — * 5 treble into the next double crochet in the 1st round, one double crochet into the middle one of the 5 treble in the next picot. Repeat from * to the end of the round. Every round like the 2nd round. Go on in this way till your petticoat is 2 inches short of the entire length you wish it. 6 or 7 inches would be plenty pro- bably. Now take your No. 9 needles and take up half your stitches. Reduce the slitches to 110 or 120. Knit 2 plain rows. Now knit 2 plain, 2 purl, for 2 inches. Now take the No. 13 needles, and knit on 2 plain, 2 purl, for 5 or 6 inches, or as long as you wish the body to be. Now slip 8 or 12 stitches, according to the width you wish your shoulder strap to be, on to a piece of wool. Cast off moderately tightly all the remaining stitches but S or 12, to correspond with those you slipped on to the wool. Work on these for I J or 2 inches. Cast off, and do the other shoulder the same way. Now take up the remain- ing half of the stitches, and knit the back just as you knitted the front. Make it as long or a little longer than the front, and then cast off without doing any straps. Turn the petticoat wrong side out, sew the shoulder straps to the back, then sew the sides of the body together for 4 or 5 inches, leaving a nice armhole (a good-sized one is best, particularly in this shape of petticoat), as it gives more room to slip it on like a vest. Crochet a row of holes, and then a small scallop round the neck and sleeves,and,if necessary, run a string round the neck. This is a comfortable and easy shape. If, after the petticoat has been washed and worn for some time, it seems difficult to get on, you can by a little management cut .it open down the back, and either bind or catch the stitches with a needle and thread, and then crochet a row of double crochet all round the opening. If you bind it you will find it easiest to sew on the binding before you cut the work. Add strings or buttons. For an older child use fingering or even fleecy, and make the petticoat longer, also the bodice. If you use coarser needles, the same number of stitches will probably serve, but measure both length and width by a pattern of the size required, allowing a little for the great elasticity of the work. Canadian Gloves or Mittens. The above are used in America very much, many of the ladies wearing them knitted of silk or very fine wool for church. Of a little coarser wool they are very useful for wearing in the country, and could be worn over a glove, when it is not convenient to carry a muff. The mittens are very simple, being neither more nor less than an enlarged baby's glove. A very pretty pair can be made for evening or country wear out of doors, of Andalusian wool, and No. 15 or 16 steel needles. The work must be knitted firmly. Cast on loosely 51, 54 or 57 stitches, just according to the required size. 57 or 60 stitches will make a mitten fully large for a lady who requires a 6| or No. 7 glove. Cast on your stitches loosely, as I said before. 1st. round * knit 2 plain, purl i, repeat from * to the end of the round. « Go on knitting in this manner, of 2 plain, I purl, round, and round. until you have worked as many inches as you wish in length for the wrist. Two inches for a short glove, and 4 inches for a 4-buttoned glove. Next round : — purl the 1st stitch, raise a stitch by knit' ting the loop between the first stitch and the next, purl the next, and knit the rest of the round plain. Mark this raised stitch as it begins the thumb. Always purl the 2 purled stitches in every sub- sequent round, whether you increase or not. 2nd round : — without increase 3rd round from the rib- bed part : — purl the first stitch, raise I, knit I, raise 1, purl i, knit the rest of around plain. 4th, 5th and 6th rounds : — plain v/ith the exception of the tv/o purled stitches, which you purl in every round, till you finish enlarging for the thumb. 7th round : — purl the first slitch, raise I, knit till you come to the second purl stitch, raise one, purl the purled slitch, knit the rest of the round plain. Knit the 3 rounds without increasing, and increase every 4th round as directed in the 7'-h round, till you have 23, 25, or 27 stitches, as the case may be according to the size of your milten between the purled stitches. Slip these thumb stitches on to a piece of wool, and cast 8 on in their stead. Knit one plain round. 2nd round : — knit plain till you come to the gusset, slip i, knit I, pass the slip- stitch over the knitted one, knit till you have 2 slitches left of the gusset, take these 2 together, thus decreasing 2 every round. Narrow in this way every round, until you have narrowed all the 8 away, and have just the same number, that you had when you began your mitten. Now knit on round and round, until the mitten is about an inch short of the required length. To narrow the point, 1st round : — ^begin in the middle of the inside of the hand, * knit 6, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th rounds : — plain. 6th round : — * knit 5, lake 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 7th, Sth, and gth rounds : — plain, loth round : — * knit 4, take 2 together, and re- peat from * to the end of the round. Ilth round : — plain. I2th round : — * knit 3, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 13th round : — plain. 14th round: — * knit 2, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 15th round : — plain. i6th round : — * knit I, lake 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Now break off the wool, leaving an end of about half a yard in length. Thread a wool needle, and gather the stitches off the needles. Draw them up, and fasten off very carefully and neatly. For the thumb : — take up the stitches from the wool, and the 8 of the gusset. Knit I plain round. 2nd round decrease i at each side of the gusset, in the same way that you narrowed the gusset in the hand of the mitten. When all the stitches are narrowed away of the thumb gus- set, or the thumb is narrow enough, work on plain round and round, until you get to the thumb nail. Now take off the thumb point by narrowing at the end of every needle, every other round, until you have about 6 or 9 stitches left. Now break oSI the wool leaving an end which you can thread. Gather up the stitches with a wool needle, and finish off the point carefully and firmly. Ornament the back of the hand by working 3 rows of em broidery, in the manner of an ordinary glove, and if liked add a ribbon bow at the back of the hand. For colour, use black with orange, blue, or red rows up the back. Dark maroon with pale blue embroideiy is pretty, or a violet milten with black embroidery. For a child use bright colours, and cast on about 2 thirds, or less, of the number of stitches given above. Proceed in the same way as for the lady's mitten, and measure by a glove as you go along, to be sure about getting the right size. Make the mitten a little narrower than the giove, but about the same length, as the length of the work is always taken up a little when the mitten stretches in width to allow of it being put on. For children they are a great improvement on ordinary cuffs, as they keep the tips of the fingers warm, are more easily put on than gloves, and rio not spoil if they get wet, like kid gloves. Many Mothers would find it a good plan to sew a piece of THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. ribbon or tape to the jacket or dloak, and fasten the mitten to the other end of the tape. When the child gets to school snd takes off its jacket, the mittens hang to Ihe tleeve, thus avoiding many a trial of temper, and weary searching, when " I have lost my miUcn" is the cry, to say nothing of saving a nice piece of work from the risk of being entirely lost. t- SiLK Mittens of the same description as the Canadian gloves given above can be easily made. Shetland wool can also be used with No. l6 needles. Black, crimson, or pale blue, are appro- priate colours. They can be knitted in plain knitting, or with a fancy pattern up the back of the hand. Many really experienced workers prefer the mitten knitted plainly throughout. I think it is best to have them plain, but for the benefit of those who would like a pattern, I give an extremely good one. As silk varies in size, I cannot exactly state the number of stitches to be cast on, or the size of needles to be used, but for the coarser silk. No. l6 or 17 needles should be used, and for the the finer No. l8 or 19 needles. The number of stitches varies in like manner, according to the thickness of silk, and size of mitten required. The number of stitches may vary from 57 to about Si. The best way, however, is to knit a small piece of about 18 stitches. 1st row plain, 2nd row purl. Repeat these 2 rows until you have worked \\ inches in depth. Cast off. You will then be able to see how many stitches it takes to make an inch in width, and how many rows it takes to make an inch in depth. You can then measure by your hand, or a well-fitting glove, allowing for the work to be a little narrower than the glove, but about the same length. The mittens should fit tightly at first as the woik soon stretches, from the elasticity of the silk. A very elegant article for evening or summer wear, can be made by making the mitten long, to come up the arm, and just over the knuckles to the fingers. Of course in this case a fancy pattern is almost indispensable. In working an open fancy pattern you do not require quite as many stitches as you would if the work were all close and plain, as the holes in the open-work stretch so much more than the plain work. 62 or 63 stitches are sufficient for an ordinary mitten, in quite fine silk, worked with No. 19 needles, when the whole of the article is in open-work. The more usual plan, however, is to have the fancy pattern round the wrist and along the back of the hand only. Open Pattern for Silk, etc. This fancy pattern is arranged for working in rounds. Allow 9 stitches for each pattern, and 8 for the cable stripe if introduced, and 2 stitches for the edge at the left-hand side of the fancy pattern. Altogether, 28 stitches. 1st round — 2 purl, * knit one, silk forward, repeat from * five limes more, (you will thus have brought the silk forward six times), knit i, purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, * knit I, silk forward, and repeat from * five times more, knit i, purl 2. ' 2nd round — 2 purl, slip I, knit I, pull the slipstitch over the knitted one, and knit 9 plain, take 2 together, purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, slip i, knit i, pull the slipstitch over the knitted one, knit 9 plain, take 2 together, purl 2. 3rd round — purl 2, slip I, knit i, pull the slipstitch over the knitted one, knit 7 plain, take 2 together, purl 2, knit 6 plain, purl 2, slip 1, knit I, pull the slipstitch over the knitted one, knit 7, take 2 together, purl 2. 4th round — purl 2, slip I, knit I, pull the slipstitch over the knitted one, knit 5, take 2 together, purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, slip I, knit one, pull the slipstitch over, knit 5, takt. 2 together, purl 2. Begin again with the first round, and repeat from the first to the fourth rounds as often as is necessary, to make the length required. These four rounds complete the open pattern. To make the cable, when you ge* to the 8th round, proceed in this way : — knit the open-work as usual, and when you come to the 6 plain stitches, take a spare needle, and Lake off 3 stitches on to it, without knitting them, and let that needle hang in front of your work.* Now knit the next 3 on to the usual needle just in the ordinary way, then the 3 on the spare needle, pari 2, and continue the rounds in the usual way. Twist the cable in this manner, every 12th or 13th round. If you do not like to have the cable, omit it, and put 3 stripes of open-work up the back of the hand instead of 2 and a cable. Seven patterns or the 63 stitches as before mentioned of the open-work described above, are quite enough for an ordinary mitten, even if knitted in very fine silk. To ari.ange the thumbs : — you have v/orked some inches of patterns before you need to arrange the thumb. To arrange the thumbs for the different hands, proceed in this way : — after finishing the last pattern of the back of the hand, knit 3 plain, purl i, raise i, purl i, knot the remainder of the round plain. The raised one is the commencement of the thumb. Mark it, and in each succeeding round keep the plain stitches between the pattern and the purl one, which shows the outside edge of the thumb. This is for the right-hand glove. For the left hand, when it is time to begin the thumb, knit to within 5 stitches of the pattern, then purl I, raise i, purl i, knit 3 plain, and work your patterns in the usual way. Mark the raised stitch, and always purl the purled stitches, and keep them as landmarks, and keep the 3 plain stitches between the purled one and the pattern. You will then have both mittens arranged properly. It is best in all cases, to have the inside of the band plain. After you have worked a few rounds you will find the pattern very easy to remember and work, and the shaping of the thumb is perfectly simple, if the directions are followed. HOODS FOR CHILDREN. Suitable for Presents to the Poor. Quito pretty and warm. Materials : Soft fingering or single Berlin wool ' and No. 8 or 9 needles, i oz. or : J oz. at 4d. or 4id- per oz. will be enough. If you are making several it is better to get a few ounces of white and one or two of coloured, scarlet or blue, to brighten them up. Cast on from 80 to 90 stitches. 1st row — knit I plain, I purl. 2nd and every other row like the first. When you have knitted about 5 or 5J inches proceed thus : — Cast off at the beginning of the row you are doing about one-third of the stitches. Knit in ribs as usual for another third and cast off the remaining third. Be sure to have the same number of cast off stitches at each side of the middle piece, and if there is any difficulty in dividing them into thirds, you can put one or two fewer in the middle portion than you put at the sides. You will have to break off the wool when you have cast off the 2nd side. Next row — take the end of the wool and begin and knit across the middle stitches which you left ; working in the end of wool to make it firm. Now knit in ribs along the centre stitches till the crown is as long as the sides you cast off. Then cast off, and sew the sides of the crown to the sides you first cast off. Curtains — Either crochet a curtain and border, or take up the stitches round the neck to the num- ber of 90 or 100. Make a row of holes to run a string through, thus — * knit 2, wool forward, take 2 together. Repeat from *, Try to end the row with 2 plain. Finish the rest of the curtain like the hood, or in brioche. Make the curtain as long as you like up to 2 inches. Cast off loosely. A little crocheted coloured border, or a netted one, or a knitted one, made by taking up the stitches round the face, ist row — make 2 out of each stitch. Next row — knit 4, purl 4, all across. Knit in this way in ribs of 4 plain, 4 purl, for J or 5 of an inch, then cast off. For strings — twist, plait, or crochet a chain about a yard long, to run in the neck and tie under the chin. Add tassels to the ends. If several of the hoods were made, the cost is very small, as it is trimmings and silk linings, &c., which are the great expense, an 1 they are omitted above and quite unnecessary for the purpose. HANDSOME OLEOGRAPH EMBROIDERY, The new Oleograph Embroidery consists of a design printed in soft oil colours on cream Zulu clotii, beautifully tinted, so as to closely simulite hand-painting. Moreover the colours are per- fectly fast, and will stand washing with luke warm water and soap. On each article is traced a small border of flowers for crewel work, which carefully worked will give just the necessary finish to the whole design. These exquisite paintings may be had printed in various designs on the following articles, with the floral border traced for crewels. Antiinacassars of cream Zulu cloth trimmed all round with cream yak lace, post free for 3s. lid. Night-dress Bags, made-up and fringed, 2s. lid. Brush and Comb Bjgs, made-up and fringed , 23. 6d. Post free. Silks anT) Cuewels. Notice. — Silks and crewels may be had In all shades at 2d. per skein, with a chai-iro of \d. exti-a for postage for every six skeins. Stamps with order. The Christia7t Hcratd says : " It is the pioneer of Irlome Di-essmalcing." MontUy, price Id. Mrs. LEACH'S FAMILY DRESSMAKER. Containing illustrations, with plain descriptions how to cut out and make the neatest, most economical, and fashionable Costumes, Jackets, Dolmans, Ul&tei*3, &c; how to knit and crochet useful articles, ire. May be had at all Newsagents, Booksellers, and Boo'r- stalls. No, 9. A\'ATEK-L1LT A^•TIMACASSAIl In Zulu cloth, friog-ed, knotted.aDd traced, U. ^d. post/res. No. 9. Is a pretty faiiy at)timac;vsar, in outline, for which pale and delicate tints should be chosen, pinks and lavenders for the dress and -^iv^, with golden hair, the features and limbs of the f.iiry in very fine black silt. As a contrast the dragon-£y ii:-:.y have a bright blue, bronze, or crimson body with pale sLate wings, tsige- greens will be found most effective for the leaves, rushes, and weeds ; the flowers that the fairy is g-athering should be of a pale rose-pink, the water lines dork blue or slate coloui*. This design can also be adapted for a tea-cosy, and then the features and limbs of the fairy must be worked in pink, so as to be visible on the darker fabric necessary for the piu-pose 23 - Price List of Fancy Work, Wools, Sec, jt>osf free. Address^ Mrs. CLARA, LEACH, 37, New Kent Road, London, S.E» ^nnpvrcam ca ' nacnes. -^— n i j>j ii.'j^\yj. ± j^± PTTrTTT' loii.cJJ UJ 1 iiJJi-iiJJJ'W5-"5'*»"WWf^^^5^5W»" Mrs. LEACH'S New and Improved Corsets, Belts and Braces, for Ladies and Children. 37, KEW KENT ROAD, and 16, GRAKD PROMENADE, BRIXTON. ■ The Marion Corset. This perfect-fitting cor- set 15 suitable for ladies with full hips, the cords going the reverse way, and a steel right through m ikes it impossible for them to crack. They may be obtained in crimson, black, and the new fawn t. sh;ide, price 3J. 11^.. or best quality and finish, in black, and French grev trimmed black, 6s. bd., i>ost free. Ladies' Cor- sets.--TheIiily. Mrs. Leach can „,K recommend this ""j Corset, for ladies with full hips. It is fitted with hip steels to prevent the dress creasing at the svaist. Also a broad webbing to preserve the bones. Ladies will find that this cor- set has qualities that must certainly vccommenditjviz., comfort, support, and fi rs t-cl ass shape. They may hU Corsets sent carriage free. be obtained in scarlet, blactt, or wliite, 6,f. Iii/. JS^'' o****"-"-"^. Laclies' Satin Corsets. — This ele ,^ ^^ gant satin Corset is iS^^^^^'^^^ 3'™ recommended for J^j^ f Yi^^ ladies with full hips, '?*■! p *' , as it is fitted with hip L ,^y steel.s to prevent the I ^ dress creasing at the waist and it is a hand- some close fitting shape. It may be ob- tained in pale blue, cardinal, or black, for 9/6, or white, 10/6, carriage free. LA BELLE FORME. New Corset for Young Ladies, from io TO 14 Years. Tliis excellent Cor- .set will be found one of the finest makes ever invented for young growing girls ; it is constructed to give great support where it is most needed, and to keep them from stooping ; it fastens in the front, and has wideshoukier straps. These Cor- sets may be had in black, stitched with amber, 4^. i\J. Ladies' Riding Corset. This perfect-fitting little corset 'is composed of the best quality materials and whalebone. It en- ables the rider to sit with grace and ease, while it supports the figure without compressing it. !\ May be had in black satin '■trimmed white, from 17 to 26 in., for S^. ii/f., post free; over 26in. waist, ir. cj:lra. A Lady writes; — ' ' Yuur Cor- sets give me such satisfac- tion that I rc- co)nmend tlieiii to all VI y friends." COESET FOX SLIM FIGUEES. The Princess Corsets. Ladies will find these corsets produce a most perfect and graceful figure with the added bust im- provers, which are suit- able for slim ladies. They are a most desirable ad- junct to the dress. .Mrs. Leach can supply these corsets with pads for 7^. bd.\ or without pads for 5r. iirf., carriage free. This model Figure Belt was made to special measurements and supplied direct by Mrs. Leach to the PRINCESS SPADA OF SPAIN. ,0 r sSsfc-^ D THE MODEL FIGURE BELT.-These belts .lie highly recommended for giving the figure a nicely rounded shape, and for the great support they afford to the back. The measurement should be given from right lound at A, B (just above the hips), and c (round hips to iuwestpart) and depth from D to d. Carriage free for 10/6 ;ind 12,0. llaiidsomely tiuished, 15/- and 21/- NOTICE.- Ladies' Nursing' Corsets. — The above- corset is a most comfortahle shape for ladies who are nursing. The bust gores are made to open, thus preventing the corset from being drawn down at the top and so preserving the shape; the hips are laced, which enables the wearer to reduce the figure. These corsets may be obtained in drab or while, 5J-. 1 id., or best quality in fine material and whale- bone, in white only, Sj. luL, fost /lee. Mrs. I,eacb's Improved Corset. This Corset is designed for the purpose of reduc- ing the figure to a systc- in.^lic proportion, at the same time to strengthen and support the back by means of a Belt, in itself so simple that the wearer can in a moment tighten or loosen the Corset at pleasure, without any as-istance. These Goods are made of the best materials and produced at the verv low- * est price consistent wilh \ good workmanship, and are modelled on P'rench models I of Ihe latest design. May be had, made in while, 8j. ii<^., 1 and scarlet or black, g.v. iirf., carriage free. ThiG is oneot llie cheapest and most serviceable Coisels manu.'actuted ; il is a good shape, and fitted will) side steels to prevent cracking on the hips, and may be procured in black, scarlet, white, or diab, tarnagc free, for 4J. \\d. The New Chest Expanding and Back Supporting' Bracer. This excel- lent little Biace gives great support where most needed, and entirely pre- vents round shoulders ; sent post free for 6^. I id. in ladies' size. Girls' sizes, 5J- lid. These Biaces have been improved, and are far superior to those sold at much higher piices. All Corsets are kept in Stock, in sizes up to 30 inch waist, special sizes made to order, charges according to size and make. All Corsets sent carriage free POSTAL ADDRESS— Mrs. LEACH, 37, New Kent Koad, Outfitter and Corset Maker. P.O.O. made payable to Mrs. Clara Leach, Post Office, New Kent Road. ^ Address, Mrs. Leach, Outfitter, 37, New Kent Road, London, S,E. «tj 1 I A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. HOME DECORATIONS At a Small Expense. Most refined natures have a love of the beautiful implanted within them ; but cir- cumstances often hinder them from gratifying their natural tastes. Still, it does not follow that because we cannot afford to spend money on things that are ornamental only, we must only have plain or ugly objects to look upon. It is astonishing what may be done with a li'Me money and a good deal of taste and a sprinlding of patience. It is not the cost of the materials so much as the loving touch of the hands, guided by a beauty-loving and home-loving mind and heart, which glorifies the appearance of a room, and makes you feel that the touch of refinement has been there the moment you enter such a home. In this series of papers we intend giving practical suggestions for beautifying our homes at a veiy little outlay, and if some of our ideas are ideas only, we are sure that our readers who are gifted with artistic tastes and desires will be able to follow up these ideas for themselves, and render many com- mon objects at least " things of beauty " — if not "joys for ever." To begin, then, we will suppose you are the wife of a better class mechanic or clerk whose salary is small ; or you may even be still higher in the social scale, but with limited means. Perhaps your total menage consists of three rooms, parlour, bedroom, and kitchen. The furniture of the first- named may probably be of the plainest— if not the commonest — description. We will endeavour to throw out a few hints by means of which you may convert your plain inartistic room into one that will not offend the eye of the most ardent disciple of " sweetness and light." Now that stained polished floors are so fashionable there is no reason why any lady should not have one if she wishes, and there- by save the expense and work of a carpet all round the room. Remove all the furniture from where you wish the stain to be ; and next (if you can afford it) have a joiner to prepare the boards by a little planing ; but if the expense is too great, never mind, a little extra polishing be- stowed will prevent that being missed. Buy i oz. of permanganate of potash (cost 4^.), put two quarts of boiling water upon it, wear gloves, and apply the liquid with a large paint-brush to the boards, rubbing it well in. If the floor is not dark enough when dry, go over it again with the stain. The boards will first turn to a bright red and then to a rich brown. When dark enough to suit your taste when dry, pro- cure lib. of size, melt it down with a little water, and while hot give the floor a good coating, then have a pint of the best oak varnish (cost, is. 6d.), and by means of a small brush, apply all over the stain. It will look all the better for a second coat of var- nish if you have sufficient. Every few weeks you must polish the floor with beeswax, and ' on cleaning days of the weeks between go over it with the furniture polishing brush. When it has been polished a few times the result cannot fail to please you, as the floor will look like that in some old castle. For the furniture : measure the quantity of cretonne required to cover the chairs, sofa, cupboard-tops, and shelves, including the mantel-shelf. A dozen yards will cover four ordinary chair-seats, an ordinary couch, one small rocking-chair, 3 cupboard tops or shelves (making nice places for ornaments or books), the mantelboard, and leave enough to make valances four inches deep for three shelves and mantelboard. The cretonne can be got at any price from ^\d. per yard. In buying it, try to get a pattern not too large for the room ; one which harmonises in colour with the room, and which has no particular up and down in it, as it will cut to better advantage. Avoid stripes, particu- larly larger ones, as they are almost always in bad taste, as are also staring hues. A pair of cretonne curtains is an improvement, to match the furniture, but is not indispen- sable if you have white ones. Cut a paper pattern of the chair-coveis, and having cut the cretonne, nail it on the underneath of the chair-seats if you can lift them off, and if not, use the small upholsterer's tacks if the heads of the common tacks show. A pennyworth of upholsterers' tacks will go a long way. A little gimp is an improvement, but rather ex- pensive (4^. a yard), and can be dispensed with or not according to taste. The mantelboard can be procured at a joiner's from is. 6d. upwards, according to size and quality. Small wooden buttons underneath form the simplest and best fastening, as the board can then be removed at pleasure. The plain straight boards are the most fashionable, and the easiest to cover. When your cretonne is in its place, a little coarse furniture lace forms a pretty and inexpensive finish. It can be obtained at a trifling cost, and should be pinned on with drawing pins, which admit of its being removed and washed ; or if the drawing pins are too dear, small ordinary pins would answer. If you have a shabby sideboard, or even a pretty dresser, if it is a good shape, you can make a very handsome and useful article of furniture at a small cost. Buy a ilb of best black paint (3^?.), and ilb of black enamel paint (6d.). Paint at first with the ordinary black, then with the enamel to give a beauti- ful polish. If there are mouldings they are very pretty picked out in Judson's Gold Paint, a small bottle of which goes a long way. Any of the gold paint that is left will regild the picture frames that are shabby. You have now a handsome sideboard, stained floor, with rug or square carpet in the middle, pretty cretonne-covered fui'ni- ture, shelves, and mantelboard trimmed with lace. If you have a mirror, pictures, or brackets, a few paper leaves, gracefully hung on the frames, form an elegant finish to the room. Supposing you have any difficulty in fixing the leaves, little bits of soap will stick the paper and do no harm to the frames. A final word as to the purchase and care of the materials. Never leave your brushes, either in the stain or paint, above a few minutes at the most (as they soon spoil, and in the stain will be eaten away in a few hours) ; but keep them in water, and when done with, thoroughly cleanse with soft soap and water, working the paint out with your hand. You can thus use the same brush for various kinds of paint. The brush for the paint and varnish should be about the thick- ness of your thumb, that for the stain three or four times the size. Buy the best oak varnish you can get, as the cheaper sorts chip. To prepare the polish, cut beeswax (3^'.) into small pieces, put into a jar, cover with turpentine and stand in a warm place (not near the fire) till melted. Apply with a cloth and polish with a brush. Keep a small quantity of turpentine in store, in case you get paint on your hands or clothes. Further on in this paper we will give some directions for making little ornaments for the walls and other useful articles for the house- hold generally, but at present we will tell you how to make your bedroom a veritable bower, and this should be done from a hygienic point of view, as it is well-known that dull, dark bedrooms are very injurious. First prepare your floor as you did the parlour. You will then probably find that by unpicking your carpet, and making it in strips rather than squares, it will make up to better advantage, and ha\-e a newer look, than if you left it as it was before. If a carpet is not -n-orth binding afresh, it can have the ends hemmed down with veiy thick thread, and that does very well for an old carpet. A deal chest, if of fair size, can be stained at the same time as the floor, and with a cushion on the lid covered with material to match the hangings, makes a good looking and extremely useful linen chest, besides serving the purpose of an ottoman. To make the cusion for the lid, measure the size, and make a bag of coarse grey calico, stuft" \\. flatly but firmly with flocks or hair, nail it on the lid and then either make a cover to fit, or use a loose one, as you please. For the windows, of course, nothing is prettier than long white curtains; but as these are rather expensive, and take a good deal of washing, you may not care to have them. Spotted window-muslin makes a pretty short curtain. Take two widths the required length, hem them just widely enough to allow the tape to run in at the bottom, but at the top make a wide hem, and about an inch and a half from the top make a running in the hem. You can thus run your tape in the running. Tie it tightly top and bottom on each side of the window, arranging the fulness carefully, and the effect with the frill at the top is very neat and pretty. If the bed is hung with cretonne, narrow cretonne curtains on each side of the window take off the bare look. rHE FANCY WORK-BASKEt. For the dressing-table, many devices can be adopted. One of the prettiest is a simple deal table, nailed round with pink calico as a foundation for the drapery. The drapery is composed of an ordinary long white window-curtain, draped the short way of the material, and the piece that falls over the top makes a pretty fulness round the edge of the table. To make it clearer, take your curtain, and measure at the end the depth the t.able is from the floor. Fold the curtain along the length according to that measure, and the piece folded over will make a flounce for round the top of the drapery. Your dressing table should match the windows if possible, so if they are draped with spotted muslin the same should be used for the dressing-table. To finish the table after the toilet-cover and mats are on it : — take a strip of muslin three yards long, gather it together at the top and again at the sides of the glass v\ ith small bows of ribbon, and arrange the ends of the muslin over the edges of the table. With a pretty pincushion, there will then be as elegant a dressing-table as could be wished. Occasionally chintz is used to drape instead of muslin, and boxes can be used as a table with a very good result. A wash- stand most have ; though of course you could make one to match the dressing-table, but less elaborate. A cheap basket for the sponges is very useful, and a cheap splash- mat against the wall at the back of the vvashstand is a great saving to the paper. If the drawers, chairs, or wardrobe are of light wood they can be made to look quite handsome, by a trifle of expense, and a fair share of trouble. Obtain at a decorator's a small pattern suitable for stencilling, and a very little black paint (which you must state is for that purpose, as it is mixed differently). Now tie your small paint brush very tightly to within a short distance of the bristles' points, so as to make the point of the brush very firm. Fasten your pattern on with drawing pins, and dip your brush into the tiniest portion of paint on a plate. Dab it over the pattern till where it is cut-out is a nice even black. Hold the pattern steady while you remove the pins and then raise the pattern quickly, being careful not to smudge it. The chief difficulties arise from getting too much paint in the brush, smudg- ing the work when done in removing the pattern, and making some slight mistake in the fixing. But do not be discouraged, you can easily wash out the first few you do, and it is not disagreeable work when you get into it, while the furniture looks worth as much again. The chairs, bidet, glass, &c., may be done with the same pattern. In choosing the patterns you will find a small one for each corner, and a longer one of the same character for going straight along the middle of the drawers are enough, and with a little management the same will do for the chairs, wardrobe, &c. The patterns will cost about 7/f. each. We have said nothing about hanging the bed, as that is a thing which depends so much on the means at command, the shape of the bed, and individual taste, but we may just remark that for the country nothing is prettier than white dimity, and for the town a nice chintz or cretonne, made as simply as possible. Of course there are many ways in which you could vary the above, but many of them would be rather expensive. A handsome hearthrug of skin is a warm adjunct, also a down quilt for the bed. A very goo(5' substitute for that is made as 4 follows : — Put several layers of cotton wool the size required, and make a cover of cretonne to fit. Fasten it at intervals in either squares or diamonds with small buttons, and you have a good substitute for the most expensive eiderdown quilt that you could obtain. The following liltle articles further serve to beautify a bedroom, but other directions will be found further on. Chair or Bed Pocket, Brush- HOLDEK, &c. The model was about 12 inches long and 6 inches wide, the lower half of the pocket about 6^ inches deep. To cut the back take a piece of cardboard 12 in. by 9. Draw a line across it 64 inches from the bottom, now draw another line, extending from the edge, where you drew the line across down- wards, slanting it in \\ inches at the bottom. Cut that piece off, and cut another piece off to correspond at the other side. To shape the upper portion of the back, round off each side towards the centre at the top, or cut each side in a slanting direction as you cut the bottom, but a more decided slant, so as to leave but 2 or 3 inches of a straight edge at the top. For the lower half take a second piece of card, 11 inches wide and b\ inches deep, cut off a piece at each side as you did oft" the back, i4 inches wide at the bottom, and slanting to nothing at all, an absolute point, at the top of the piece you cut off. This is the foundation. The model was covered with peacock-blue plush of a rich shade, and trimmed round with blue and gold cord, and blue ribbon to match; on the lower half of the pocket was embroidered a lovely white calla lilly in chenille with yellow centre and shaded green leaf. It looked lovely. For the bottom of the pocket take about 64 inches of blue satin to match, and gather it to fit the size of the back and front when sewn together as a pocket. When all is made up finish with the cord and a bow on the back. The same design in serge, old velvet from a dress, or a small piece of new material, and crewel embroidery or appliquS would look very well, and be quite sufficient for any but the best room, or a present. Toilet Cushion. Make a cushion any desired shape, square, oblong and high, or any way your fancy dictates. Cover all but one corner with the same material as the pocket, peacock-blue plush, velvet or otherwise. Have an em- broidered or painted spray on silk, satin, or serge. Cover the corner with the fancy spray, and lay a piece of ribbon across the join of the two materials. If you have no ribbon, join carefully before placing on the cushion, and cover the join with fancy embroidery stitches. Trim with cord round the cushion, and pompons in the opposite corner to the spray. In the other corners place ribbon bows. If you have not been veiy successfifl in joining the upper and lower portion of your cover, leave out the cord, or use the cord and silk fringe or ribbon quilling, or trim both pocket and cushion with swansdown or feather-trimming; these will cover a multitude of defects in making up. Hair Tidy or Catchall. Take a fan, of a good size, and remove the wire which confines the slats at the bottom. Now join the sides of the fan, put in a wire to keep it extended round the top, draw the slats together at the bottom with ribbon or cord. Add a bow at the bottom and a ribbon handle or loop to hang up by at the top. The model was crimson with crimson feather-trimming, and ribbon to match. Pretty things for the Drawing-room OR Parlour, Nursery or Hall. Home made plaques form very pretty wall decorations. Any piece of wood or stift" mill- board can be covered with scraps of velvet, plush, quilted satin, or anything that will look bright and pretty. It does not matter if you have not enough of one colour or material; you can join a corner on of something else. To decorate the plaque you can paint on it, or fasten on some silk applique ornaments before sewing or glueing your cover on the cardboard. Sometimes pretty bits can be cut out of cretonne and gummed on, or silk em- broidery, or a very easy way is to fasten an artificial spray of flowers of suitable colour against the plaque. The latter way is as pretty as any. A shabby bracket can be iin proved by putting a small lace lambrequin round, and a plain plaque at the back on the bracket; a little broken wine-glass or pitcher, with a few artificial leaves and flowers (which you can pick up, if you choose with judgment, for a comparative trifle), on the bracket in front of the plaque is very pleasing to the eye. We saw something that looked \'ery pretty in the distance, one day; and upon examining the plaques, the quaint-looking decorations turned out to be home-made ones of the sim- plest kind. The plaque was covered as is shown above, and on the plaque was a little figure. It was the head and bust of a girl, which had been cut out of cardboard and the head fitted with a quaint little mob cap of silk or muslin, and a three-cornered shawl of the same was over the shoulders and folded under the bust after the manner of drapery on a statue. There was a full length figure of a child treated in something the same way. Care has to be exercised to select suitable figures, and then to cut them carefully, and while the dressing should be raised a little, it should not be raised so much as to make it look as if it did not belong to the rest of the picture. The dressed figure can be stuck to the back in any desired way, but glue, cement, or even gum will probably be found best. The above will give a few ideas, and we will pass to something else. We often are the possessors of prints which we like to look at, though we do not care to be at the ex- pense of a frame. Below are one or two contrivances which will probably last as long as the print is wanted on the wall. One print of a little girl was placed on the wall, and the edge was covered by trails of arti- ficial holly gracefully disposed and inter- twined. Another was framed in Axy natural grasses and leaves. Again, if the picture is mounted on card, the above could be arranged on the firm card, and the picture hung up by a ribbon. This would be the best plan when you do not want to mark a new wall- paper. Another pretty frame could be made as follows. Make a flat frame, the desired size, of wood or stiff cardboard. Cover or not, as you like, with oak-coloured brown paper. Have ready dried moss or sea- weed and shells ; cut up pieces of cork, scraps of bark, acorns, little pine cones ; now brush a portion of your frame over with glue or first- class gum, and while your frame is wet, put on the dried moss ; finish the whole frame with the moss, and then place your scraps of cut cork, bark cones, or whatever you have, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. at inten'als over the frame. Sea-weed can be used instead of moss, if obtainable. When all dry you can frost it, if you like, by brush- ing over with very thin glue or gum, and then sprinkling with powdered glass. If the pow- dered glass is unattainable, you might try a solution of Epsorn-salts or alurn. If the solu- tion is not strong enough the first time, make a little stronger and apply again. These suggestions may help you to make some pretty things for your children and friends, in the way of wall decorations. Before closing this subject : we saw, a good while ago, a pretty though not quite new idea for vwttoes, for entertainments, bazaars, &c. Have a suitable ground by covering card with green, red, or blue paper. Cut out your letters in paper, and paste them in their places ; then gum them over, and quickly put over the gum fine white cotton-wool, and lay the wool quite even. When all the letters are made, frost them with powdered glass, as directed above for frames. If large letters are required, they can be made separately, and then pinned or other- wise fastened on to turkey-red or navy-blue calico or cloth, suitably draped as a banner, or otherwise, to taste. These mottoes are very suitable for Christmas and winter enter- tainments, and have the merit of costing very little. The next thing after w alls are the windows. A few suggestions are given below, which are suitable for back windows. They are mostly simple, as, when they become elaborate, it is necessary to get professional help. One method is to buy cut tissue-paper of the desired colour, in designs, and fasten it on the window by rubbing oil or thin hot starch over the glass; then arranging the paper over the wet glass very evenly without wrinkles, dabbing with a soft cloth to exclude the air, and leave no creases. Green is best for a sunny window, rose coloured or white for a dark, gloomy room. Another way is to frost them w-ith Epsom- salts. Two ounces of salts dissolved in half a teacupful of beer or water is the usual quantity. Clean the glass thoroughly from grease, and then apply the salts when quite dissolved, by means of a small rag or flannel. Begin at the top of the pane and try not to go over the same place again, at the same time being careful to leave no spot uncovered. The salt crystallizes on the window in small or large stars, and shuts out the view in a pleasing manner, without obstructing the light much. For dining-room and hall windows, glacier decoration is very beautiful, and is easy to apply. Full directions can be obtained where the article is sold. There are agents in every large city. It might be thought expensive in the first instance, but it is durable, can be cleaned, and is undoubtedly an acquisition to any room. If to cover the whole of the pane costs too much, a border of the plain colours round the pane, and the centre done with salts or frosted properly, looks well. A handy way of filling the middle is to take fresh putty and dab it on evenly all over the glass. If you are very successful, you can glaze the puttied centre with varnish. It makes it durable. Strong soda or soft soap will remove the putty when necessary ; but be careful not to let the soda get on the bordering. For the bordering, orange, yellow, and blue will be found the best colours, with a little red and green, the colours divided and edged by the leads which are sold at the same time as the designs. The width of the bordering must be determined by the size of the pane bordered. The effect of well-arranged "glacier" decoration is that of stained glass. We perhaps ought to mention that it is difficult, indeed nearly impossible, to remove it when properly put upon the glass ; so make your design before beginning, and work it out carefully to make no mistake. Such a window, with stained floor — as directed at the commencement of this article — Persian, or other warm rug, or simple matting for summer wear, and tapestry of iViadras muslin curtains, according to the season, would make almost any room look pretty. Cretonne or chintz could be used for curtains, the furniture covered with the same, and, if practicable, a portiere might be added. The following is a very pretty tablecloth, and easy and inexpensive to make. Materials : — Unbleached calico the size of the cloth required, and cretonne of various patterns, sufflcient to cover the calico, some narrow dress braid, and a piece of oriental fringe to border the cloth (narrow will do), or wool, and a crochet hook to make fringe. To pro- ceed: — Cut your cretonne into squares of 6 or 8 inches at each side of the square. Arrange your squares on the lining evenly, and, with due regard to colour, let the edges just meet. When all are arranged, run the braid, which should be about half an inch wide and well shrunk, across the joins from side to side, until all the joins are covered. Bind the edge of the cloth, or turn it up with a false hem, and add the fringe. If you crochet a border, use a stiletto, and make holes at suit- able spaces, work i treble in the first hole, * 2 or 3 chain and i treble into the next hole, repeat from * all round, making a little fuller in the corners. 2nd row — I treble in first hole in previous row, the same number of chain, and i treble in next hole. Work in this way for another row or two, then finish by knotting a few strands of wool in each hole. Another very pretty cloth is made as follows: — Take a piece of lining as before, lay on it either cretonne with a small pattern of leaves, and a brown or pale blue ground, or else some dark plain material such as silesia. Canton flannel, or serge. Now buy a piece of cretonne with a rural scene or some quaint love scene, or landscape to taste. Cut it out in an arched or oval shape, and lay it in the centre of the cloth as a medallion. Frame by laying a narrow velvet band or piece of other material cut to the shape, appliqued down, or simply with the edges turned in and sewn invisibly. Another way is to cut the centre of the cloth out sufficiently to let in the medallion, fasten down the edges, and outline a trail of leaves. If the cloth is large, the corners can be done in the same way, and a handsome antimacassar, banner screen, and portiere can all be made on the same plan, introducing a pleasing variety of designs in the medallions and colours chosen, takingcare that they harmonise as if they belonged to the same set. Beautiful vases can be made by transferring groups of flowers on to plain white vases. Pale blue or slate looks well for a ground. Apple blossoms on opal or blue ground is very pretty. A very effective umbrella stand is made from this description: — Purchase a good-sized drain pipe, about 24 or 27 inches high, and proportionately wide. It should have a pro- jecting edge at one end. Turn the pipe with this edge down to make a little stand for it. Now ornament it in one of the following ways : — I. Paint it black, and then add scraps which you can buy at any shop, or lay on pressed ferns and leaves (after the paint is dry will probably be the best time), and fasten them with thin glue. A'arnish when finished. 2. Another way is to paint it in pale blue like the sky, then paint on a design of water, bull-rushes, and flags. These are not difificult to do, and look lovely. 3. .Some of the transfer patterns, and Decalcomanie orna- ments, are extremely pretty, and the work of applying them is simple and pleasant. Tripod Table and NewDressing-Table Tkimmixg. A charming gipsy-table can be made if covered with crimson cloth, and a crimson Lambrequin added, edged with gold cord. The Lambrequin should be cut in battle- ments, which is a change from the scallops. A Useful Table. A table, as above, covered with serge, or an ordinary deal dressing-table, can be made most useful. If the table is a tripod it will probably need no drapery but the Lambrequin. If the dressing-table is plain deal, either drape round with plain cloth drapery, or substantial cretonne, or else cover each leg with velvet, or other material, sewing the material on very neatly on the inside of the leg, stretching, smoothing, and fitting it to the leg as you proceed with the sewing. Begin at the bottom of the leg, and fit to- wards the top. When you reach the top, turn in the edge of the material, and fasten firmly with tacks. Cover your table wiih any convenient material, and make a Lambrequin of the same or a heavier material. Cut the Lambrequin out in battlements round the bottom, and in each division fix on a little pocket, to hold brushes, combs, and other toilet requisites. Trim the edge of your Lambrequin to taste, and fasten round the table with fancy nails, or under lace. These are very convenient tables in a small room. Pretty Blotting Pad for the Table. Take 4 or 5 sheets of blotting-paper of suitable size, and tie them together at the corner, by making two holes with a broad bladed knife, bringing an end of ribbon up from underneath through each hole, and tie in a pretty bow. Still further ornament the upper sheet, by painting a flower or gumming on a scrap posey, or smaU figure. Table-cover Embroidered in Cross- Stitch. Cross-stitch, Russian stitch, 5:c, are only fresh names and adaptations of an old kind of work. \'arious materials can be used, depending upon the size of cloth required. For a five o'clock tea-table cover, oatmeal or Zulu cloth, or brown or white linen has been much used of late. For a larger table, cloth would be better. In buying, do not trust to guess-work. Measure the exact size of the table, and take that measure with you, and allow for so much to hang over at the ends and sides of the table, as taste and circumstances may dictate; you buy the cards with the patterns on at any fancy shop. In working from them, if the canvas or linen is coarse enough to count the threads, you can of course do so; but unless very coarse, this is tedious. For cloth or other material in which you cannot count, proceed in the following manner: — Buy a small quantity of ordinary canvas for Berlin wool work. Tack a length of a Httle more than sufficient width to take in the required number of stitches in a pattern along the edge of the cloth where the embroider>' is to be. Work over the canvas with a well- pointed needle of a large enough size to carrj- 5 THE FANCY AVORK-BASKET. the wool or silk through the cloth without dragging. Be extremely careful not to sew the threads of canvas. When the design is finished, draw out the threads with great care. For a large piece of work, fairly coarse convas would be best, as the effect of fine stitches would be lost round a large cloth. The edge might be done in ordinary scallops with embroidery stitch. The scallop could be outlined from a pattern. The edge of the cloth might also be bound, fringed, or other- wise finished. Fashion kindly leaves us choice in the matter of style. A geometrical straight design for sides and ends rather extended at the corners, will be found best. Materials:— according to taste and means; wool or filoselle, or both mixed. The design might be worked in wool principally, and just a few stitches of gold filoselle to brighten all up. The following suggestions may prove useful as to colours. Maroon cloth, embroi- dered with pale blue and gold or orange, olive green (very dark) with crimson and gold. Blue (dark): this coloured cloth might do well with crimson and gold, but it would be better to take a pattern of the cloth and try the eff"ect of different shades, as blue does not harmonise with many other colours as ■well as the dark maroon or crimson, or green cloths. If liked, a little arrasene might be used among the embroidery, but the filoselle is far easier to work, and is very handsome. How TO USE UP OLD MeAT-CANS. A Good Footstool. Take 7 or 8 cans of a medium size, clean thoroughly, and stuff closely with hay, rags, cotton-wool, or what you have. Place the largest can (if there is any difference) in the Mniddle, and the others round it. Fasten them firmly together with string, tape, or a piece of calico wrapped round them. Now cut out the shape of the bottom in thick card- board, and cover it firmly with strong glazed calico. Cut a piece to fit the top from cretonne, serge, or anything you have, and a straight piece for the sides. Sew the top and the sidepiece together, and trim round the join with cord, or put a thick piping in as you sew it. Have the stuffing over the top of the cans, very thick and soft, as it will press down in a little time. Lay a piece of flannel, cloth, or thick calico over the stuffing, and then draw over your cover. Gather the edge of the sidepiece just under the lower edge of the footstool, and sew on the covered card- board bottom to the side band neatly. If you like you can trim with wool gimp trimming. Add tabs at each side to lift it by, and you have a cheap and durable footstool. Waste Paper Basket. If it is of wicker perpendicular bars, it looks very pretty with ribbon of different colours run in and out of the bars and tied at one corner with a bow. 7 or 8 rows of ribbon can be interlaced in this way. If the basket is of close wicker-work have a serge drapery, embroidered or not as you like, but trimmed round the edge with a wool fringe simply crocheted on the serge, and the pompons festooned round and sewn in clusters at intervals. Work round the edge of the serge with dark wool, or to match the colour, and a coarse steel hook, so that you have some- thing to work in. 2nd row — with ordinary wool hook, I treble into a hole * 2 chain, miss a space equal to 2 loops, i treble in the third loop. Repeat from *, filling up round the corners to keep them flat. 3rd row — 6 change the colour of the wool, but work as the 2ud row. 4th row — i double crochet into a hole,* 9 chain, double crochet into the middle one of the 9 chain just made, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the next hole in the previous row. Repeat from * all round. The pompons can be sewn on wherever liked, and ribbon bows placed at intervals. It is not necessary to have very good ribbon for these trimmings. When macrame crochet as above or wool trimming is used, it is better to line the baskets, whenever practicable, with bright lining. Silk Purse-Bag for Work, &c. 'Take I J yards of satin, fold the selvedge edges together. Sew them firmly, leaving about 9 or 12 inches opening in the middle for work to be put in the bag. Now fold your work flat with the seam you have just made in the middle of the side. Sew one end firmly across flat, and gather up the other, like the end of a JDolster. If you like you can cover a small circle of cardboard, about the size of a penny or larger, and sew the gathered end round the card, but this is not necessary. Now turn your work right side out, and finish with a fringe at one end, and a good tassel at the other. Add two ivory rings, which slip up and down like the old- fashioned purse rings. If you cannot get ivory rings, wind ribbon round the baby rings or crochet round them very closely. These bags are carried over the arm and will take work on one side, and a night-dress or pair of slippers in the other. Cretonne and wool trimming, or cashmere and wool fringe, will serve for ordinary use. Embroider the ends or not as you like. It is not necessary. Handy Work bag. The bag detailed below can be hung in the parlour or bedroom, or is very convenient to carry, when travelling. Materials : — 2 yards of good cretonne or pretty print, and some cardboard, 8 rings, and 2 yards braid or ribbon. The tops of old boxes will do if you have nothing better. If your cardboard is very strong, you will only need 3 pieces ; if it is rather flimsy, you must have 6, and put 2 together, to make them firmer and stronger. The cards must be cut as follows : — The length is 74 inches, the breadth across the middle 5J, and across the straight top, 44 inches. The lower end is rounded like the end of an egg. Now cut a strip off the side of the cretonne, about 14 inches wide, and ij yards long. Hem or line the ends of the strip. Now cut off another piece from the remainder, 1 3 inches wide, and aljout 1 1 inches long. Out of what is left cover your cards very neatly on both sides, and do not let your sewing shew at the edges more than you can help. If there are any scraps of cretonne, put them aside for a few minutes. You have three covered pieces of card. Take one of them, and also take the smaller piece of cretonne you cut off. Make a I inch hem across the top, where it is 13 inches wide, and run in a strong piece of elastic 8 inches long, and fasten firmly at the ends of the hem. Now round the lower corners a very little, and gather or pleat to the size of the cardboard. Turn in the edges and sew to the card. This forms a nice pocket for yarns or odds and ends. Now gather the sides of the long strip to the size of the cardboard, and sew very firmly round the card you have just sewn the pocket to (the pocket being on the outside of the bag) ; sew the other side of the strip to a second piece of card. The fuhiess can l:)e put a little more towards the bottom of the cards, than to the sides. Now take the 3rd piece of card, and fasten it at the top, to the card which has no bag on it. This forms a loose flap. Now fasten in between these 2 cards, several leaves of suitable flannel, and you have a beautiful needlebook. If you have any scraps of cretonne left, you can make small pockets inside the bag, sewing them neatly to the cretonne or card, or what will probably be more convenient, you can make them into little bags to contain tape, thread, buttons, darning cotton, cotton reels, and odds and ends. These will slip in the bag, and greatiy help in keeping the contents separate and tidy, and you will find that altogether you have an exceedingly pretty, useful, and portable affair. It is surprising what an amount these bags hold, and as they will pack in almost any shape, they are very convenient. Sew on the rings one at each corner of the cards, and 2 in each strip of the cretonne, and have the distances between the rings as nearly equal as possible. Take l yard of the ribbon and run through the rings, sewing the ends neatly together, take the remaining yard, and run it through in the same way. Having 2 runners, you can draw the bag from each side. A small mattrass pincushion would be a great improvement, and could be fastened outside the needle-book if liked. Toilet or Drawing-room Workbasket. Take a small basket without handles, 4 or 5 inches across and 3 or 4 inches high. Cover all over with satin rather carelessly fulled on, and line with the same, adding a small cushion and pocket if you like. Now take a straight piece of satin, about 9 inches wide and long enough to go round the basket. Join tlie two ends of the satin together, and then make a hem i\ inches wide. Make a running about f of an inch from the hem. This gives room for ribbons to be run in. Now make two large buttonholes about i inch apart at opposite sides of the hem, that is to say, one set (of 2 buttonholes to a set) must be precisely opposite to the second set which is on the other side. Of course you make the holes on the right side of the satin. Now take a yard of ribbon and run in the running and tie the ends into a handsome bow. Now take a second yard and run in through the holes at the opposite side ; tie a bow as before. You thus draw up from each side and balance the basket evenly. Trim round the basket at the edge where the drawn cover is joined on with lace, and ribbon bows at the corners, or only one bow where the lace is joined. WORKBAG. Materials : — 2 pieces dark crash canvas, \ a yard long and |- yard wide each piece, I piece of ribbon about 3 inches wide, also \ a yard long ; 2 pieces of silk to match or harmonise with the ribbon, each piece 12 inches long, and a J of a yard wide, and 2 yards of ribbon about i4 or 2 inches wide, of the same colour as the silk. Now embroider some little design on the two pieces of canvas, and also on the ribbon. Some small sprays, or a conventional trail will be best. Over- cast the edges of the crash, and then sew a piece of canvas carefully to each side of the ribbon. When this is done, sew up the sides of the bag very carefully, and secure the edges, so that there is no fraying. Now take one of the pieces of silk, sew on the right side, and turn over and hem on the inside of the opening of the bag. Turn in the edges at the ends, and make a running about | of THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. an inch wide, close where the silk joins the bag. Do the other side in the same way with the remaining piece of silk. Now take h.alf the ribbon, run it in, and tie the ends to- gether in a bow, secure with a few stitches. Run the remaining half in the same way. This bag can be made in the same way with less expensive materials. When the bag is drawn up, the wide pieces sewn on at the opening of the bag make two pretty frills. These bags are suitable for shopping or visiting, and are especially suited for carry- ing a small piece of work when travelling. If for travelling it would perhaps be best to make them all of silk, as less liable to take up the dust. A pretty silk handkerchief, or the silk finished handkerchiefs that are so cheap at the present time, could be utilised, and made into a very pretty bag, of much the same shape as the above. The dimensions of the model were about 9 inches in the width, and 13 inches deep, inclusive of the 3-inch frills at the top of the running. How TO Ornament Baskets. Those who care for embroidery can soon work a border round a short length of cloth, which should be cut in Vandykes. Each little ^•andyke or scallop might have a small leaf worked in the centre ; but if this is too elaborate, the cloth can be neatly cut out at the edge, and the places where it is drawn to the basket can be ornamented with a few artificial leaves. At Christmas a few holly leaves and berries are appropriate. If the cloth is rather thick serge, crochet wool-work, in scallops made with medium hook and wool, and a few little balls interspersed at regular intervals, would be better and more manage- able. A strip of serge with crochet edging could be carried up the handle. The cro- chet might be worked in the folded edge of the serge to save time. We have seen many baskets most prettily decorated with drapery composed of small pieces of silk, satin, velvet or serge, ornamented with outline designs and finished ofiT with wool fringe, very frequently the ball fringe. We merely instance the above method as one which can be adopted with any and nearly all baskets, as work- baskets, waste-paper baskets, and litter baskets (to hold the bits which so constantly collect in a room which is regularly used). For the litter baskets, the small strawberry baskets of either size can be made very pretty by putting a valance of silk, sateen, or any handy material, round the outside, and lining them inside with some bright contrasting or harmonising colour, and putting a ruche of ribbon or lace round the top where the lining and the valance meet. The lining looks very pretty just sewn straight on round the top edge of the inside, the bottom edge of the lining being drawn up by means of neat run- ning, and a rosette placed over the gather- ing to hide any little hole or unsightliness. When you wish to tidy the basket, you just pull the lining up and shake, and dust the folds of lining gently till clean and tidy again. A Very Pretty Little Work-Basket Can be made by trimming and lining a strawberry basket as above, but before putting on the ruche, you sew a second straight piece round the edge, then make a neat runner in the upper edge of the material, and run on a piece of lace. Now sew your ruche or trimming round the edge of the basket, place the work and cotton reels inside, and draw up the piece you sewed on last, and you ha\e a veiy handy and neat little basket for small pieces of work of any kind. These arc ornnmcntal, and especially useful to keep a few work materials in, for use in the dressing-room, and wc all know the comfort of having a needle and cotton at hand, to sew on a refractory button, or piece of torn braid, or any of the numerous little matters which so frequently go wrong at the last minute, usually when you have "no time to run downstairs," and pins have to do duty for a moment's stitching, to your own dis- comfort, or, perhaps even, as in the case of braid which is loose, real danger. The basket can be made more convenient, or at any rate more elaborate, by making pockets in the lining, and adding a handle of wire or card, wound round with ribbon, and orna- mented to match the rest of the basket. Wall Baskets Are very useful to contain — well, really, almost anything, from the husband's pipe, tobacco and matches, and perhaps at odd times his shppers, to grandmamma's or mother's knitting and spectacles, book or pocket-handkerchief. The sponge baskets, sold at about a shilling, are most convenient for the purpose (we mean those which have a back and a close wicker pocket at the lower end, not the open sponge baskets). They can be trimmed as we have suggested above ; and we have seen very pretty Painted Wall and Other Baskets, Made by painting them thoroughly with black paint, and when that is really dry and smooth, picking them out with Judson's gold paint. They can be finished with a little fringe, or not, as liked. Some knitted moss could perhaps be adapted for a border, or a little gimped-out cloth, with a few artificial leaves, and perhaps a flower or two (which you might have by you), would give a very pretty effect without going to much expense. Old baskets can be utihsed in the parlour when they are discarded in the kitchen. By using a little ingenuity an old basket, which has lost its handle, if it happened to be of the right shape and was carefully cut in two, could be transformed by means of cardboard backs, serge linings and fringe, (fee, with per- haps paint or valances to trim, into two wall- pockets. We have spent far more time on baskets than we at all intended, but so many things are made of wicker now, and it is cheaper sometimes than anj'thing else, that we must beg to be forgiven, as we ha\-e tried to show how even a common article may, without much expense, be converted into an elegant and useful piece of furniture, fit for any room in which it happens to be placed. Tea Cosy. Extremely Pretty. Simple, but The following suggestions for a cosy will be found good ones for all ordinary purposes. Take single or double BerUn wool, and a hook to match for size. Hook No. 7 for double and No. 10 or n for the single Berlin. Which size of wool is entirely a matter of taste. The single is finer, and admits of more shades being used, but as a cosy is a tolerably large article, the handsomer ribs of the double wool look very well, and are more quickly worked. Measure the depth of the cosy at its deepest part. Make a chain slightly longer than that measurement, that will admit of the necessaiy turnings in the making up. ist row. Work ordinaiy double crochet into eveiy chain. Break off at the end of the row. Work a second row of ordinary double crochet on the top of the first, taking up in the usual man- ner the back part of the stitch. Always break off at the end of every row, and begin again. All rows are like the second. You need not mind fastening off or drawing in the ends of wool, either at the begining or end of the rows, as they will be disposed of in the making up of the cosy. When you have done a piece sufficiently long to make one side of the article, break off and work a piece to cor- respond for the other side, and then make up in the usual way. Do not cut the crochet before stitching, but mark the place where it is to be stitched. When it is sewn and made firm, cut the edges, leaving a good margin and overcasting them very firmly. Finish by lining with several layers of wadding, and quilted cashmere or silk, and when all else is done put on a good cord, making a small loop or two of the cord at the top of the cosy to lift it by. You turn up the crochet when you are making it up just as if it were cloth or any other material which is used for such a purpose. We are quite aware that the above direc- tions do not sound very grand; but if the work is regularly and closely done, and the colours judiciously selected, it is a very pretty affair when finished, and would make a nice present in conjunction with an egg cosy which is made in much the same w-ay as the tea cosy. To make the Egg Cosy. The egg cosy should be of such a__size as to cover a small dish of hot water sufficiently large to hold three or four, or any requisite numbers of eggs, which have been put into their cups. Measure the size required, cut a paper pattern of the same description as the tea cosy, but of course smaller. In every other respect proceed as for the tea cosy. These egg cosies are now much used at fashionable tables. Teapot Holder. A teapot holder is very necessary with the tea cosy, as in most cases the handle gets too hot to be held by the bare hand. A small square of the same material as the cosies, lined, and finished either by a very close crochet border, or, better still, by a cord to match the other two articles, will be found easy to make and very useful. Further Suggestions on the above Articles to be considered. Some of the new cosies are made of a slightly different shape than formerly, being higher and not quite so wide; but the shape of the teapot requiring covering should be taken into consideration in fixing upon the shape. One cosy was made of four separate pieces instead of two. For about half their height they were cut with straight sides, and the remainder of each piece was tapered gradually off to a point. All the pieces were joined together on the inside, and the taper- ing made the cosy come to a point at the top. The joins were covered by cord. This shape would only suit some teapots. The more usual shape is more likely to suit the generahty of teapots. The cosies given above are less elaborate and can be made for home wear ; indeed the one from which we have taken the instructions for the cosy given at the head of the paper was a wedding present, and looked well. The colours were arranged in shades of crimson, from dark to light, and then from light to dark. Choose colours to harmonise with the breakfast or tea sen'ice. If you have the fashionable blue service a cosy in THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. shades of blue, or blue and old gold or fawn, is both suitable and pretty, or the follow- ing— Fashionable Cosy for 5 o'clock Tea. Work the size of the cosy in fine tricoter with single Berlin wool and No. 8 or g hook. Use a self colour, either dark crimson, navy blue, or green, accoi ding to taste and circum- stances. You can embroider on the fine tri- coter, and on one side you can work the monogram or initials of the owner, and on the other side work a spray of flowers or leaves in wool or crewels; or adopt the plan now much'in vogue, arrange a bouquet or spray of good artificial flowers on the side of the cosy with no embroidery upon it. Fasten the flowers firmly and catch the leaves down at various places, not to make them look plas- tered, but as if they were nicely settled and belonged to the spot they are placed in. Egg Basket Cosy. A small flat basket with a handle can be made very pretty for the breakfast table as follows : — Line the basket with cotton- wool, then with a piece of red or other flannel ; now arrange some knitted moss on the flannel. If you have any bright-coloured moss left you might make that into little tufts, fastening them to the flannel by little strings or stems. Now arrange the hot eggs in the basket, let one or two bright tufts show among them, and put a little cover over to keep all snug. The eggs will be found much warmer than when they are put out in the egg-cups ; and if all the family are not down- stairs together, it is a much pleasanter thing to be able to keep anything warm for an in- valid, or even a delinquent brother, than to let them sit down to a cold egg, which is cer- tainly not as wholesome, in the opinion of many people, as a lightly-boiled warm one. Cover for Egg Cosy Basket. Make a piece of tricoter or any other kind of work of the right size. Line with cotton- wool and then with sateen or silk, or what you have that will do. Tuft it with a darning- needle and piece of cotton or string, in one or two places, tying in a bunch of wool or ribbon, or a button. Border with fringe, lace, or knitted moss sewn firmly on. Nice Way of using up Lengths of Wool, either Long or Short. Tie them together and wind into a ball. Now take steel needles and knit all up tightly. When all is knitted in a strip damp the strip, and then dry briskly on the oven- door or in a cool oven. Finish by pressing with a cool iron, and then unravel the wool, and it is ready for use. Varous jVIethods of using the Above. The green wool, with some shades of brown, yellow and crimson, can be prettily arranged on the top of a flower pot, the inside being stuffed with torn paper, rags, or cotton-wool. Some suitable artificial- flower or plant can then be placed in the middle of the moss. A bright little orna- ment will be the result, which would be quite an improvement to many rooms where it is not convenient to have plants. Instead of the flower-pot you might use a Converted Child's Pail. The outside of the pail can be painted black or any self colour. You can then either paint a flower, or put a band of gold paint on it, or if you have a few dried ferns they might be dropped on in small sprays, or a few of the cheap scraps, sold everywhere of such pretty little designs, might he fastened on. When all is dry and fixed, a coat of varnish should be added in order to improve the work and make it last. These will answer every purpose of a more expensive article when nicely done, and should be weighted with a little sand before putting in the cotton- wool and moss at the top. Bundles of arti- ficial moss can be bought and used with the knitted moss if liked. The Brighter Shades of the Knitted Moss Can be used as follows : — Cut a card a little larger than the bottom of the pot which you have just finished.. If you have a piece of material— serge, velvet, silk or satin — cover the card with it. Proceed in this way. Cut the material a little larger than the card, run a strong cotton round the outer edge, then slip the card inside the running thread, and then draw it up and fasten securely. Take a piece of calico or anything convenient, turn in the edge and seam to material at the outer edge of the card. Now arrange your bright-coloured moss in pretty bunches and sew on at proper intervals round the card. Put it under your pot or painted pail, with the flower in it, and you really have an elegant and inexpensive table-ornament which will be much appreciated. Screen for Nursery or Dining- ROOM. Take a good-sized kitchen clothes-horse, cover it with canvas, nailed very smoothly, taking care that the hinges have sufficient play. Now paste over it a pretty wall paper, and finish with a neat gold bordering all round. This is a very easy, inexpensive and good screen. To make a variety, the lower half of one side can be covered with plain paper, and the upper half with good gold or flock paper; a handsome border being laid along the join and round the screen. Be careful, as we said before, to have the hinges properly covered. Another way. Cover the canvas with glazed calico, past- ing it on very smoothly, or with any self- coloured paper. Then put little groups, at intervals, of flowers, fans, Japanese subjects, butterflies, &c. These can be cut out of paper and cretonne, as it happens to be convenient. A gilt border round will improve the whole very much. Another. If you paint, you can make a very hand- some screen very easily. Cover the lower third of the whole screen with chocolate paper, and up above with pale blue. It must be a kind that will take paint. Then paint any little scene on the pale blue. Water-scenes look well; a few storks in the water, with bul- rushes in the fore-ground, and a suggestion of palm-trees and pyramids in the distance, or, instead of the palm-trees, &c., a long range of mountains outlined, just under the clouds, and a bird or two flying in the distance. These things require to be suggested by out- line rriore than worked out in much detail. On the other side sprays of flowers, and a branch with a birds' nest, would look pretty, or apple blossom, &c. If you cannot paint, cover, as said above, with chocolate and blue papers, and then cut out some suitable de- signs from paper or cretonne, fasten on in their right positions, then place a border where the two colours join, and also round the screen. Finish by having it glazed, if your work looks well, and then it will last a long time. New Trimming for Baby's Basket. To those ladies who live in town and take entire charge of everything belonging to their baby's wardrobe, &c., a somewhat less elabo- rate basket than the ordinary muslin and lace-covered article will be useful — a basket that will keep looking well a long time. Take a basket and line quite simply with glazed chintz or some similar pretty material; add a cushion at one end and a pocket at the other. Now take fine Seine cord and a bone hook, about No. 8 or 9. Make 14 chain, turn; 2 treble, i chain, 3 treble all into the 4th chain. Make 3 chain, miss 9 loops of the foundation chain, and work 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the next loop. 2nd row — i chain to turn, 3 treble, I chain, 3 treble into the hole formed by the one chain between the treble in the first picot; 3 chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the hole formed by the one chain in the next picot. Repeat the 2nd row till you have a strip long enough to go round the basket. Now work a scallop in the chain you made to turn at the beginning of each row, along the top and bottom edge. Now take a lengtti of ribbon, and run in and out of the chain in the centre of the trimming under 2 sets of chain, and over 3 or 4. For the top of the basket have a small square of material, and make a similar border; run the ribbon in rather easily and have a bow at each corner. If you hke you can draw up the trimming with the ribbon, after you have sewn it round the edge of the basket, so that it fits well and close, or just leave it to hang plain. You can make the border outside the basket any depth, by working extra rows along the lower edge. If you have any dif- ficulty in getting Seine cord, or Macram6 cord as it is sometimes called (incorrectly, as Macram^ cord is a different article), ordi- nary fine soft string will do. The Seine cord is sold in many colours, but 'we recommend the string coloured cord as lasting and washing better than any other, besides going well with any selected colour. A chintz of which the prevailing colour is pale blue, and ficelle or string-coloured cord, with garnet ribbons, would look quite pretty, and be far more lasting than white muslin. Another Way. The same pattern as above, worked out in wool, using pale blue for the centre stripe, and olive and garnet for the heading and scallop round the edges. Pale blue, ohve or garnet ribbon could be used, and pompons festooned round. To make the pompons:— wind round a long thin book wool of the desired colour, or several colours mixed, and when you have it about the thickness of a man's thumb, take it off the book ; then tie round very firmly at intervals of half or three quarters of an inch, with strong thread. Cut the wool half way between the ties, roll jthe balls round in your hand and cut them to a nice shape. Hang them to a chain, or sew them just where you want them. Some people steam the balls to make them a good shape. We find the plan above answer very well. If the balls are not full enough, wind on more wool before taking it off the book. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Trimmed Box, for Music, Work, or Children's Toys or Nursery Matters. Cover with chintz, cretonne, or woollen or silk, and trim with the same as directed for the basket. You can make the centre piece double-width, so as to have 2 rows of ribbon. Make 31 chain, turn; 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the 4th from the hook ; 3 chain, miss 9 loops, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the loth loop ; miss 6 loops, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the 7th loop ; 3 chain, miss 9 loops, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the loth. 2nd row — i chain to turn, i picot {i.e., 3 treble, I chain, 3 treble) into the middle of the first picot in the previous row, 3 chain, i picot in the middle of the next picot, I picot into the middle of the next picot, 3 chain, i picot in the middle of the last picot. Repeat the 2nd row as often as needed for the length, and finish off after the manner directed for the baby's basket, adapting the work in a suitable manner to the kind of box you are trimming. Wool trimming with the pom- pons described on previous page is very suitable, and any scraps of wool can be used in the balls. Olive is a good ground colour, with blue, gold or orange to lighten up. Scarlet and grey fingering look very bright and wash well. Infants or Children's Convenience Cover. The above is very handy to use in the day nursery for the baby, or when children are confined to one room from illness. Take a small wooden tub, such as is sold for washing glass or silver. Turn it upside down, make a cushion to fit the top, nail it on, and then make a drapery and trimming for the side ; fasten on round the cushion, and finish by putting a cover over the cushion. The trim- ming of chintz, cretonne and wool, or seine cord crochet, mentioned in the trimming for baby's baskets, music and nursery boxes is suitable and easy to make. Before trim- ming your cover, it would be best to measure if it is large enough to cover the required vessel. The handles on the tub serve to lift it up by if they are not too close to the floor, and it is well to have it on a piece of bound carpet or other mat to guard against unfor- tunate spills and noise. Nursery Ottoman. A wide, shallow washtub, turned right side up, and fitted by the joiner with a lid and hinge, and trimmed as suggested above, and a nice soft cushion fitted to the lid, makes a good seat for the children, and a first-class receptacle for work, towels, or anything required. Soiled Clothes Receptacle, very good for the Nursery. The above can stand in almost any room, as it is quite ornamental. Take any old clean barrel of a good size, and cover on the outside with cretonne, chintz, or any suitable material. Pleat it in large box-pleats, and fasten the pleats top and bottom with tacks. Line with glazed calico. For the lid take a piece of the glazed calico a little more than half the width of the lid and cut It larger than the lid, .leaving a margin of 2 inches all round, turn the margin up round and over the edge and tack it down on what will be the right side of the lid. Now take a straight piece of the material, and gather to the size of the lid along one edge. Sew the gathered edge to the glazed lining along the edge of the lid. Then either pleat or gather the other edge towards the centre of the lid. Hide the raw edges under a rosette in the centre of the lid, and make a ruche or frill to go round the lid. If you have no lid to fit the barrel, take a piece of wood (round or square), which will project a few inches beyond the edge of the barrel. Cover it in any manner you like, either like we have shown above for the lid, or else like an ordinary small table top, and finish the edge with furniture lace, put on with gilt nails, or sewn on under a coi'd. Ribbon bows can be put at the corners, and lace and ribbon rosettes, at two or three places round the cask ; two or three handsome ones would be quite enough. The latter would be the most suitable for rooms that are used much in the daytime, and would stand in a corner with a work- basket on it, and look very pretty, and be a good place for children's pinafores, socks and frocks. For those who are short of room, two barrels dressed as above, and kept one for clean and one for soiled garments, would be found very useful. The walls of the nursery can be made pretty by hanging prints thereon, framed as suggested in the beginning of this article. The windows, if they are back windows, should be made pretty and cheerful if they have not a pleasant outlook. They can be done in any of the ways suggested, or in the fern work described in No. 2 of the WoRK- Basket. Clean the windows, then arrange fern leaves, dried leaves and pressed plants which are not too thick on the glass. Fasten with a little gum, and get the glazier to put a pane of glass over the ferns. This arrangement is as permanent as the majority and looks pretty. Nursery Quilts— Attractive and Simple. Quilts that -take a good deal of attention when the little ones go to bed are easily made by dividing linen, or a sheet, into squares, as directed for the tile quilts further on ; or, for a change, omit the squares, simply outlining them in coloured cotton, and when the work is done, drawing out the divisions. In each of the marked squares, outline, in good crewel, some scene from the nursery rhymes, "Bo Peep," "Jack and Jill," "Little Pig went to Market," "Miss Mufht and the Spider," "Puss in Boots," ".Mother Hubbard," &c. These tales could be told to the babies, and would be a memory for them in after years, when the quilt was getting threadbare, and the hands that worked it "had ceased from their labours." Early memories will some- times come over the strong man in a distant clime, and the recollection of tales and prayers learned at his mother's knee be a spell to keep him from evil. Baby's Couvrette. A very pretty and inexpensive couvrette can be made from eider cloth. If that should be too expensive, Canton flannel will do very nicely. Take a piece of cloth the required size, and a layer of wadding a little smaller, and a piece of lining-, either fine ordinaiy flannel, silk, or cashmere, to put them to- gether, have your cloth pinked out at the edge or bound, then turn it wrong side up, and tack the wadding in its place. Now have the edge of the lining pinked or bound as the cloth is, fasten them altogether by in- visible stitches, and you have a very pretty covering. A very pretty way is to have pink cloth, and white or dark lining, which will contrast or harmonise with the colour of the cloth. Have the lining a little larger than the cloth, so that when they are put together the lining projects beyond the edge of thecloth so setting it off, and serving a very useful purpose of protecting the edge when the top IS of a delicate colour. Of course, in using Canton flannel the fuzzy side must be outside. If you do not like the idea or the expense of pinking, you can cut the material 2 inches wider at ever>' edge than you want it and so turn in 2 inches all round of both lining and cloth. ^ PRETTY COVERLIDS. Quilt cf Lace and Satin. The lace used for this quilt was guipure furniture lace. The centre was composed of a square of lace about 20 inches each side; round that was a band of satin 5 inches wide, shaped so as to be flat at the comers, then an insertion of lace about 3 inches wide, then another stripe round of the satin, till the quilt was large enough. The outside band of satin can be twice or three times the size of the others if you have more satin than lace. Round the edge was a deep guipure lace border, about 5 inches deep at the points, and a narrower border of the same pattern was placed round the centre square, lying over the first band of satin. Chair backs, antimacassars, and covers for the baby-'s crib, dressing table, c&c, can be made in the same style. The centre blocks of lace for those are about 9 inches square, and the strips of satin 3 inches wide or less, the lace about 2 inches or i^ inches. The border in proportion. To make all the above warmer and more durable, they could be lined with the palest pink or dark maroon. Canton flannel 01 silesia would do to line. Such a handsome quilt as the one described would be too good for common use, but a very pretty and cheap one could be made from cretonne, silesia, cashmere, or even the material of a well- cleaned and discarded dress, with ordinary inexpensive furniture lace. The chair backs, table covers, &c., could all be made in the same style. The foregoing quilt would be very good for a young mother, and would add to the appearance of her room whilst sick, and, as suggested, it could be made in simple material to look verj- pretty, and be at the same time inexpensive. Dutch Tile uuilt. Take a large white sheet and mark off a border about a foot wide, mark the centre oft in squares about the size of tiles. Now make the divisions, by working along the marks in good washing crewels in china blue, or else run china-blue braid along all of the lines. If you like you can leave a larger space in the centre. Now fill the divisions by outlining a small figure or design in each in the blue crewel, after the fashion of those of the Dutch tiles. If you don't like these, use Kate Green- away figures ; or, take scenes from the history of the Willow Pattern Plate. Which is a good subject and often used, being an old idea coming to us as a fashionable novelty. The border of the quilt could be in outline, or a trail of leaves and poppies appliqued in Turkey twill. M.\TS, Curtains and Covers could all be arranged to match the quilts above suggested. Patchwork of various kinds has from time immemorial been used for quiltr, and further on will be found some patterns of some pretty kinds in silk and print. Another Ouilt. Strips of silesia, cretonne, or fine serge joined by coarse furniture lace THE FANCY WORK-BASKET between the strips for the centre of the quilt, and a plain border of material round, edged or not with lace, looks pretty. The lace should have lining of suitable colour tacked under it, if possible. Any of the above articles can iDe elaborated to almost any ex- tent by introducing richer materials, and embroidering designs in silk or washing crewels where suitable. PATCHWORK. Log Cabin or Canadian. This can be worked in blocks any size from 6 to 12 or more inches. Cut your lining to the size required, and cut as many blocks of lining as you think you will need for the quilt, so that you will be sure of having all of the blocks the same size. Now take print or washing chintz, light and dark, and cut a square ij inches each way; place that e.xactly in the middle of your block of lining, and tack it there. Now take a light piece the same size, and run it across the end of the piece you have put in the centre, taking up j inch turnings. Now take another light piece the same width, that is, ij inches, and run it along the side to the left of the one just done, you will need that about 2i long to go along the end of both pieces you have sewn on. Now take a dark piece the same width and run to the left of the light one you last did, always taking i inch turnings, and arrangmg the work well along the end of the pieces you have last put on, as well as the centre pieces. Finish by running a longer dark piece along the ends of the pieces already sewn on, and the middle piece. Each finished piece is i inch wide after the J inch turnings are taken off. Now take a light piece and run along the side to the left of the one just done, then another light piece and run along to the left of that, then a dark piece to the left again, and another dark piece to the left of that. The result is like two light-coloured flights of stairs, opposite two dark coloured flights of stairs. Go on in this way till your block is arge as you wish it. They can be run toge- ther with the sewing machine when you have made all the blocks. Border with a good strip of washing chintz, print or cretonne. The same design can be used in silk. A variation can be made by having a strip of blocks alternated with a strip of diagonal patchwork, which is very simple, but has a good effect when mixed with some other pat- tern. Have a strip half the width of your blocks, or wider if you wish. Lay a tiny half square on one of the corners, then run strips along the bias or crosswise edge of the half square, trimming them at the edges after they are put in their place. Continue until your strip is as long as the work requires. Another can be made by arranging the first little square you put in the block dia- gonally, this brings each corner of the square block filled up with a half square. It is very pretty, but requires great care to get the strips and squares of the same width and size in all the blocks. A large number of strips and pieces of the shape required should be cut, so as to have them all of precisely the same width, the length is cut off after each piece is sewn in its position. The shorter lengths could be utilized for the middle portions of the blocks, and the longer lengths for the out- side edges. Another way is to take blocks \\ inches long, and ij inches wide, when the edges are turned down, and two small square blocks \\ inches each way when the edges are turned 10 in ; sew the side of both of the small blocks to the centre of the side of the long one, this makes a cross. When you have made several crosses of different colours, you can join them. The arm of one cross fits into the side of another. Lay them on the table, put the right hand lowest corner of one against the left hand top corner of another, and fit in the remainder as they seem to go best. You will soon see how regularly the work will progress. The next thing is to have the crosses of regular size, is to arrange the colours prettily. Tlie American Crazy Patchwork can be carried in any kind of materials ; but good materials are best, as the work takes a good deal of time and trouble, and therefore should be made to last. You can work it in blocks, strips, or have the whole size of the article spread out at once. The latter is hardly necessary except for very handsome pieces of work indeed, made of veiy expensive goods ; and even then the best way would be to make the work in convenient strips or large blocks, and then when the separate pieces are joined together, work over the joins so as to conceal where they are. You had better begin on a sofa cushion, or handkerchief case. Cut out soft unbleached calico the size required, take your scraps of silk of any shape, large or small, and lay them with due regard to colour on the foundation, just allowing the edges to overlap ; and in the case of silk, or ordinary stuff goods, turn in the edges of the top piece sufficiently to allow you to feather-stitch along the edge. In the case of velvet, or plush, lay it on in the same way, but as you cannot turn in edges button-hole round the edges with fine silk if possible, to keep them from fray- ing. When you have arranged a fair number of pieces — the more irregular the shape the better — you fasten down the edges with com- mon coral or feather-stitch, or any fancy embroidery stitch. In this way, in the course of a year or less, you can make a veiy hand- some bed-quilt, sofa couvrette, cushion, or anything you fancy, which will last your time, and that of those who come after you, if care is taken of the article when done. A quilt, or handsome article of any kind, costing so much time and trouble, should be folded away out of the dust every night, and not put out till the dusty work of the next day is over. The border is a plain strip ot silk or velvet laid round the quilt. Line with canton flannel or some similar material. The same design can be done in woollen goods, and looks veiy well indeed for ordinary use. It is quite customary to make the silk quilts to go over half the bed, like some eider- downs, and they can be lined with cotton wool to make them warm if needed for that purpose. In such a case, use rather dark handsome silks or stuffs, as, if used at night, it will get dirty sooner ; but can be easily cleaned, and would be very useful. The above design can also be carried out in prints, and, joined with featherstitch, it would be pretty and wash well. Almost any design can be made by taking a square, or hexagon, or any shape almost, and cutting it into regular pieces, and making each piece out of a different coloured material, and then join- ing them together again. In making any pattern, a large number of foundation pieces should be cut at once to ensure them being of the same size, and in Mosaic patchwork, which is made on the above principle of cut- ting up some giyen shape into smaller ones, and joining them in different colours ; the model pieces should be cut out of tin or very stiff cardboard, and cut very accurately, as on their accuracy the pleasure of making, and the beauty of the work when finished, will depend to a great extent. We mention a year, not because it would take so long to make a Crazy quilt by any means, but because you have to wait sometimes for scraps, and you do not want to work at it unceasingly. The work is fairly quick work when you get in the way of it, and very fascinating to the worker, so much so that it is often difficult to leave off after once getting interested. We find that we have omitted the easiest kind of Log Cabin-Floor Patchwork, and also one of the most effective. Take a founda- tion block as for the others, and put a small square in the middle of the block as for the others. Then run a piece of print along one side, turn it over and smooth it. Run a second piece along the opposite side, and smooth that in the same way. Now run a piece along the top and bottom of the middle square ; these pieces also cover the ends of the side pieces you sewed on first. You have now a square again, and must proceed in this manner all the time, first sewing on one side and then the other, and then one end and then the other, till you have filled up your foundation block. The strips used in the blocks can be any colour, but it is best to have them light and dark, in a regular manner. The strips can be as wide as the centre block is square, i.e., if your centre block is \\ inches square, your strips can be the same width ; so that when you have taken off the \ inch turnings you will have a centre block I inch square, and strips round i inch wide ; but this detail can be altered at will to suit taste or convenience. All the blocks should be the same size with the same size strips, except you could have a large block four times the size of the others in the centre of the quilt, and at each corner. Cosy Hearthrug. Materials: — three pieces of coarse pack- ing-cloth (which is sometimes called sacking, used to make coarse aprons of sometimes), and a few pieces of cloth a yard or more in length; strong hands and a little patience. How to proceed: — Take two pieces of sack- ing and cut them the proper size, allowing about two inches to turn in all round for strength. Tack the two pieces firmly together and turn in the edges and sew them down, using good strong needle and thread which must be well waxed. Now cut your cloth into strips about 3 or 4 inches wide each strip. Now slip out triangular pieces at inter- vals of about half or three-quarters of an inch all down one side of each strip of cloth. When several strips are pinked out, you can begin and sew for a change, and when tired of sewing you can cut a little. By this means you get a little rest for the fingers. The way of procedure is this: — Take a length of black cloth, or if no black is to be had, take the darkest shade of cloth; now sew it on to the foundation of sacking all round the edge. Let the outside edge of the cloth project be- yond the outside edge of the foundation \\ or 2 inches. Keep the corners flat. When the first round is done, sew a second round inside the first. The second strip should lie over the first about an inch and an half, or so as to fully cover the foundation. Put a third round inside the second, and so on until you come to the centre of the rug. Fill the centre as flatly and as prettily as you can. You will very likely find it convenient to have the rounds near the centre made of rather THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. narrower strips of cloth. Much variety can be introduced by vai-ying the width and col- our of the strips. The model we saw had a few rows of black cloth round the edge, then shades of grey which gradually shaded off to black again about a foot from the outer edge of the rug. There was then a row of scarlet, then the black again, then grey, then a little scarlet and a dark centre. The rug was nearly square. It was made by a Scotch lady for a young friend lately married. The rug can be made long and narrow if preferred by only doing a few rounds, and doing the centre in rows instead of rounds. When all the cloth is sewn, take the remaining piece of sacking and sew it on neatly and firmly un- derneath as a lining, sewing it not only at the edge but in the middle as well. A few old coats cut up can be transformed in a mar\'el- lous manner, and a discarded scarlet flannel petticoat, if not too worn, will supply the brightness. If you use flannel you must double it and sew the raw edges to the foun- dation, and snip little bits out of the folded edge. The scarlet flannel must only have about half an inch in width showing, as it is more flimsy than the cloth, and will not lie so flat as the heavier cloth. The rugs are suitable for afternoon in the kitchen, for a living room, nursery, or bedroom; their suitability de- pending on the materials used, but principally on the care bestowed on the arrangement and manufacture. Unless you prefer to do so, we do not think you will find it necessary to join the pieces of cloth together before sewing themto therug,but you may find it con- venient to do so, you can then roll them up and so have a few balls of different shades. Use strong thread or fine twine for sewing, but you need not make very little stitches; if the strips are firmly sewn on, that is all that is necessary, and the underlining covers many defects in neatness, &;c. Strength is the great requisite in the sewing, and taste and care (given the material) are all that are needed to secure a really useful, pretty and cosy rug, which is easy and inexpensive to make and very durable when made. decosations fok the little ones. Dolls' House. The above can be simply made by fitting divisions in a moderate sized box, so as to have four rooms, two rooms, or six rooms. We will consider the four-roomed house. Kitchen, sitting room and two bedrooms. Paper the walls, and if you have no carpets, paper the floors also with a carpety looking pattern. For the kitchen get a stove, and a j few chairs, and a kitchen table, and a fire- place, fender, and at able and about two chairs for each of the other rooms. For each bed take a box of the right size, and place the up lid upright against the end. This forms the head of the bed, make the bed to fit the box with pillows, &c., make a little frill round as a valance. Make a drapery for the head of the bed and add curtains. Another way is to make the bed as before but put no head to it. Place it lengthways against the wa:ll, take a strip of goods, any kind will do almost, wide enough, gather it in the middle and fasten to the wall with a tack, and dispose the ends of the drapery over the ends of the bed after the French style. Cover the tack with a bow. The Washstands for the Dolls Can be made of boxes draped with muslin, and the dressing tables to match. A looking- glass could be made by fastening some broken piece into cardboard, and then draping the edge with velvet or something of the kind, and fastening with a nail to the wall through the cardboard or draping. Cotton reels with a cushion on the top and draped and tied in the middle make nice little seats and saves buying chairs. The windows and doors can be draped with any little scraps of muslin, cretonne, or silk, which can be col- lected. The walls can be ornamented after the fashion set out for real walls. In furnishing the bedrooms do not forget the baby's little bed. Many of the dolls' dresses could be crocheted. When all had been made that ingenuity can contrive the little owner could be encouraged to save up so as to fill up deficiencies by degrees. Far more care will be taken of the things if they have cost a little time and trouble and self denial, and a great amount of interest ^\■ill be developed in getting a new set of cups and saucers, &c., if they have to be planned for. We have ventured on this chapter on the dolls' house and nursery as it seems such a pitty that the old fashioned plan of playing with dolls should not be encouraged. The desire for dolls is simply the natural outcome of the maternal instinct, and it is sad for children to think themselves grown up before they are out of bibs and pinafores, and see them ashamed of their dolls. How would it be if their mothers were ashamed of their babies? Most of us know from experience that they will learn the hard lessons of life all too soon, so let us try to keep them children as long as we can. It is far healthier for mind and body, and if they have no time be assured there is some radical defect in their mode of life. Mind and body to be healthy must both have exercise and grow together. Rugs. We had almost forgotten the rugs. Get some pieces of carpet and cut them about three inches wide. Ravel the threads out and have them laid even. Now have coarse cotton and steel needles. Set up twenty-five, thirty or any number of convenient stitches. Knit two plain rows. Third row : knit one * take a small tuft of carpet ravelling, lay it between the needles, letting about the middle of the tuft lie on the work, knit one stitch, take the end of the tuft that lies away from you and bring it rovmd the stitch just knitted, so that all the ends are on the side nearest to you. Pull the ends even. Knit one stitch. Repeat from *. Knit the fourth row plain. Repeat the third and fourth rows all the time. These can be made in patterns by arranging the wool or ravellings in colours, or to put the wool as it comes, gives an oriental appearance. { These rugs can be made any size. They are worked in strips or squares for convenience. ' The carpet ravellings are a little more 1 durable than the wool which has been sug- ; gested in previous numbers. Cut pieces of narrow carpet, flannel, or silk can be used in the same way. Line or not as you like. Another way. Cut flannel or thin carpet or cloth and join into long strings. Wind in a ball, and knit with coarse, strong wooden needles into squares or strips like braid bath towels are done ; that is, just knitted back and forth like a garter. These need no border unless you wish to put one. Another. The oriental rugs for w'hich frame, ma- terials and patterns are sold now are very durable, very handsome, and easily made by any one having ordinary strength and patience. They are interesting work, and can be made far more cheaply than the handsome eastern rugs which they so nearly resemble. They are simply the ordinary cloth rugs im- proved and could be made on sacking or harden, as it is sometimes called, paying due attention to pattern and colour. Wool, rags, cloth, and tufts of wool can all be used for these rugs. Just one more, and we will close. Take a piece of nice even sacking or hai-den. Cut to the size required allowing good turnings all round. Now work in fingering or other wools a bold geometrical pattern in the centre, and a border all round. You can work in the sacking as if it was canvas. Long stitches in stars, and cross stitches to keep them in place, are effective. Really fine embroidery is not suitable for anything which has to be walked upon. When the embroidery is done, lay the carpet or flannel under to thicken, and line with calico or serge. This is a prettj' and cheap mat. The one we saw looked extremely well. INFANT'S STAYS. These thoroughly comfortable little stays are very simple to make. Materials: — About an ounce and a half of wool (Single Berlin or Hutton's Queensland Vest Yarn), No. loor ii pins. Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 10 plain rows, nth row — 13 plain, * 3 plain, 3 purl. Repeat from * five times, this will give you 6 ribs. Knit the last 13 plain. Repeat the nth row until you can count 26 ribs in the plain part at the side. This will be when you have done 52 rows. Now knit 8 plain rows. For the shoulder — slip 10 on to a piece of wool, cast off until you have 10 stitches left, knit on them till you can count 21 'plain ribs. Now cast on 24, being careful to cast them on at the proper end of the shoulder so as to come to the back right. Knit till you can count 5 ribs of knitting in the plain part. Next row — knit 8 plain, * 3 plain, 3 purl, and repeat from * twice. You will now have 8 stitches left, knit them plain. Repeat this row until you can count 26 ribs from beginning the back. Next row plain. Knit plain everj' row until you can count 5 plain ribs. Cast off". For the buttonhole side, work the shoulder and begin the back in the manner detailed above, but you must not forget to make buttonholes. Always have them at the right side of your work (we mean in the middle of the back, and not under the arm). When you have the back properly begun and can count about 4 ribs make a buttonhole thus : knit 4 plain, wool forward, take 2 together. Finish the rest of the row in the usual manner. Go on with the back as before until you can count about 1 2 ribs from the last buttonhole, now knit 4 plain, wool forward, take 2 together, and finish the row as before. Go on again until you can count I3 ribs again from the last buttonhole, and make a hole as before. Finish the back as usual. Sew up the sides of the stays, leaving a good ai-mhole. Lay a nice piece of silk binding or soft tape under the buttons, and sew on good sensible buttons, that there may be no difflculr>- in fastening them. If wished, a row of holes and a string could be put round the neck and a border round the armholes, but the stays ai'e flatter without anything at all, and quite cosy, 11 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. VERY HANDSOME KNITTEDSHAWL. This lovely shawl forms a most beautiful wrap for evening wear. The model worked in white and sent into our prize competition, was presented to H.R.H. Princess Beatrice as a wedding gift. Materials required : — Baldwin's Bee-hive Berlin fingering, 30 skeins, wood needles. No. 2 ; Walker gauge. Cast on 244 stitches, this allows for 5 knitted plain at each end, remembering always to slip the ist stitch, now knit 5 plain rows and begin, ist row- knit I, thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass slipped one over, knit i, knit 2 together, thread forward, repeat. 2nd row — all purled. 3rd row — knit 2, thread forward, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slipped one over, thread forward, knit I, repeat. 4th row — all purl. 5th row — knit I, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit i, thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass slipped one over, repeat. 6th row — all purl. 7th row— knit 2 together, * thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped one over, repeat from *, end by knitting I. Sth row— all purl. Nowgoback to 1st row, The shawl is worked throughout like this. When it is finished, border all round with a rich fringe. If intended for evening wear, loop up with ribbon in bur- nouse form. The lady who made this shawl would be most glad of orders, being an in- valid. She could supply them in white for £1 OS. 6d. Address with the Editor. LADIES' BEDROOM small roll, and keeps the heel up in place. This knitting can be done in another colour. This would make a slipper to be sewn on a cork sole, but with wool, size 5. Any worker could enlarge or diminish the above pattern to the size required. If a strong sole is de- sired, you can procure a leather one ready pierced for sewing, at any good bootmaker's, and then you should knit a woollen sole in brioche stitch, and place inside ; a rosette or cord and tassels can be added at pleasure. CROCHET SLIPPERS. Materials required :— 2 oz. of double Berlin wool, and one Tricot needle, size 8. Any pretty shade. You first work the small flap, or point (by one row is meant forwards and back). Tricot, or " Idiot stitch," is fully de- scribed in our first issue. For the flap, cast on 4 stitches. 2nd row— increase to 6 stitches. 3rd row— increase to 8 stitches. This forms the flap. Then cast on 10 stitches, crochet 40 rows. After that, pick up the 8 stitches of the flap, and the first 10 stitches cast on number to 200. Then commence bodice of dress, which is made by simply knitting 2 stitches and purling 2. When deep enough to commence the arm-hole divide the loops into 3 parts, 50 for each side and 100 for the middle. Knit the 3 parts separately, and do the 4 loops at the beginning and end of each side of the arm-hole i purl, i plain, i purl, i plain, instead of the 2 and 2, as this makes it flatter to sew the sleeve in. When deep enough for armhole, take up the loops on to one needle again and knit 10 rows of the 2 purl and 2 plain. Narrow i loop 9 times in every other row, first at the beginning of row, then halfway across the back, then at shoulder, half way across the front, centre of front and same on the other side to the end. Next knit 2 loops *, cast over, knit 2 together, repeat from " to the end of row. Knit i plain row and then cast off. For sleeve of frock, cast on 70 stitches. Knit i plain row, I purl row, I plain row. Then commence with the 5 rows of plain and purl, showing the purls on the right side, as on skirt of dress, then knit the diamond, then the i plain row, and the 5 rows again, just as in skirt. Next I plain row. Then 10 rows of i plain, 1 purl, reversed, the purl loop over the plain in every other row. Then a row of holes like the top ot frock, I plain and cast off. Finish off the top and sleeves with a crochet edge of i double, 2 chains, miss 2, 4 double; treble into same loop, with I chain between, 3 chain I double, repeat. KNITTED FROCK. For Girl of Five. Tke model was in white wool with rose-pifik, but any moj-e serviceable colour could be used. Commence by casting on 30 stitches for kilt. 1st row — Knit all but 2, then make i, knit 3. 2nd— Slip i, knit I ; purl to within 3 of the end and turn. 3rd— Knit to within 2 of the end; make i, knit 2. 4th— Knit 2, purl all but 2, knit 2. 5th— Knit 2, purl I, knit to last 2. Make i, knit 2. 6th— Knit all. 7th— Knit 2, purl to last 2, knit 2 (31 on pin. Sth— Cast off 3, knit to the end. 9th— Knit 2, purl all but 2. knit 2. loth— Knit all. Make 60 points for kilt. Pick up stitches on the wrong side of kilt (top), 5 stitches to each point, making 300. Make i over for the end stitch. Total 301. Now do i plain row. Then I plain row, i purl row, i plain row, i purl row, I plain row; making 5 the purls all on the right side. For Diamond. 1st row— I plain, 9 purl, repeat to the end ol row, I plain for the last stitch. 2nd— I plain, purl I, 7 plain, repeat I plain at end. 3rd— I plain, purl i, i plain, 5 purl, i plain, i purl, repeat i plain at the end. 4th— i plain, purl I, I plain, I purl, 3 plain, I purl, I plain, 1 purl, repeat i plain at end. 5th — l purl, i plain to the end of the row. 6th — l plain, I purl, I plain, i purl, 3 plain, l purl, i plain, I purl, repeat i plain at the end. 7th— i purl, I plain, 5 purl, i plain, i purl. rows with I Plain row. stitches on the needle, then decrease the next row to 8 stitches and finish with single crochet. Pick up the stitches of the band for the heel, and knit 7 rows plain on No. 10 or No. II needles. This forms a ,!^^!3S!BK»?'>" plain, I purl, i plain, 5 . . . _ thus forming-the band of the slipper which j repeat, 1 plain at the end. Do i plain row. goes round the heel. You now have 28 Then 5 rows the same as before the com- stitches on the needle ; make i row, without mencement of diamond, all the purl to show diminishing, and then diminish i at each on the right side I plain row. Repeat from end every other row until you have only 12 ! the commencement of diamond 4 times more, then knit 25 rows of alternate plain and purl, making all the plains to show on the right side. Narrow 10 times at regular distances in the ist, 4th, 6th, 9th, 12th, 14th, 17th, 20th, 22nd and 25th rows. This will decrease your *\ Nos. 1 and 2 of the FANCY WOEK-BASKET are in print, and may be bad of all newsagents, 33. \ LADY'S KNITTED CAPE. Materials required: — 2 long wooden knitting needles. No. 4, 2 ditto No. 9; 3 oz. crimson Berlin fingering wool, 4 oz. grey ditto; i^- yards black ribbon, or any other combina- tion of colours desired. Cast on 402 stitches (for 25 points). ist row — slip i,* make I, knit 7, take 2 together, knit 7. Repeat from* and continue to the end of rows. In finishing each row there will be 8 stitches instead of 7 after taking 2 together the last time. In this way the first 20 rows are to be knitted. Always slip the 1st stitch. 21st row— slip I,* make i, knit 5, take 2 together 3 times (once before and once after the usual place), knit 5. Repeat from *. Thus continue to reduce every Vandyke through- out the row to 14 instead of 16. For the next rows, 6 stitches are to be knitted after make i, then 2 together once, knit 6. Repeat from make I. Reduce again in 35th row, by knitting only 4 stitches where you had knit- ted 6, and take 2 together 3 times in the middle of each Vandyke. 36th row— slip i, make i, knit 5, take 2 together, knit 5. Repeat from make i. Reduce in the 45th, 55th, and 63rd rows. In the 64th row (or where there are 32 ridges from the beginning) cast ofi" 2 Vandykes or 12 stitches, as there will be only 6 stitches in each Vandyke. Do this at the commencement of next row as well and knit the rest of the rows as usual. Then or 3id. post free from the publisher. The First Number contained fnll and explicit instructions, with Diagrams, for wording every Stitch in Knitting, Crochet and Crewel Work, rIbo 12 directions for making Child's Pelisse, Ladies' Petticoats, &c, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. continue to cast off the stitches a few at the beginning of each row until only 7 Vandykes remain, as follows. Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the ist two rows. Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next four rows. Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next six rows. Then cast off the remaining 7 Vandykes. The stitches should then be picked up with No. 9 needles across the top with crimson. In knitting the 2nd row take 2 together every other stitch so as to reduce them to about 100. Should there be more than 100 stitches, make it right in the next row by taking 1 together occasionally. After knitting 4 rows plain (including the picked up one which is to be crimson) with the dark colour, with the light shade knit 2 rows plain. Next row — knit i, make i, take 2 together. Repeat from make I throughout the row only. Knit the last stitch. Then I plain row. Then with crim- son knit 4 rows plain. Cast off. Fasten all the ends of wool belonging to the knots by running them in and out on the wrong side. Run a ribbon through the holes round the neck. Number of rows of each colour : 8 rows crimson or 4 ridges, 16 rows grey or 8 ridges, narrow in the 7th ridge ; 8 rows crim- son or 4 ridges, 14 rows grey or 7 ridges, narrow in the 2nd ridge and also in the 6th ; 8 rows crimson or 4 ridges, 12 rows grey or 6 ridges, narrow in the 1st ridge and also in the 5th ; 8 rows crimson or 4 ridges, 10 rows grey or 5 ridges. Number of rows for the neck: 4 rows crimson or 2 ridges, 4 rows grey or 2 ridges, 4 rows crimson or 2 ridges. Cast off with crimson. VERY HANDSOME CROCHET ANTI- MACASSAR DONE IN SQUARES. Materials. — 14 skeins of Coate's crochet cotton No. 12 and needle to match. Com- mence with 9 chain, join round with a slip stitch (viz., put cotton in stitch and draw through loop on needle). Work 16 double crochets into circle, join with slip stitch. 2nd row— 10 chain, i purl — viz., slip stitch into 5th chain from needle. A purl is always made in this way — 2 chain, miss I double crochet in previous row, * i treble into next doublej 7 chain, i purl, 2 chain, miss I double crochet, repeat from * 6 times ; after the last 2 chain instead of a treble, slip stitch in 3rd chain of the 1st 10 chain, as you will see you have no double to work into. You will have 8 picots. 3rd row— 10 chain, i purl, * 7 chain, i purl, repeat from * 5 times, 2 chain, i treble on the next treble in preceding row ; 7 chain, i purl 3 times, 7 chain, i double crochet in and from needle, i treble in next, 2 long trebles in next 2, leaving 2 of the 7 chain, 5 chain, i double crochet in 2nd from needle, i treble in next, 2 long trebles in 2 next, slip stitch in loop of the 3rd of the 7 chain that held the last long treble, * 7 chain, i purl 3 times, 2 chain, i treble, in next treble of 2nd row, repeat from commencement of 3rd row 3 times, but only make 7 chain, not 10; to finish, i slip stitch in 3rd chain of the first 10 chain, you will have 8 loops. Break off. 4 th row — fasten on between 4 long trebles ; 6 chain, i double crochet in next 4 long trebles, * 1 1 chain, i purl (leav- ing 6 chain), 6 chain, i double crochet in the 4th purl of the next loop of 7 purls ; 1 1 chain, I purl, 6 chain, i double crochet in centre of 4 long trebles, 6 chain, i double in next 4, I I chain, i purl, 6 chain, i double in 7th purl of next loop; repeat to end of row. 5th row — double crochet in each chain, working behind the purls when you come to them. You should now have 156 double crochets. 6th row — 39 double crochets from commence- ment of row, turn work over, 37 double crochets, missing i at the beginning, and leaving i at the end of each row, turn work over, 35 double crochets, work over, 33 double crochets (taking up the back loop of the dou- ble crochet all through the front), work over, 14 double crochets, 3 chain, 3 treble; work over, 3 chain and 3 treble on the top of last 3 chain and 3 treble ; work over, r slip stitch in top of last 3 chain, drawing it together, slip stitch down the side of this picot and work the remaining 14 double crochets of the row; work over, 29 double crochets; work over 9 double crochets, i picot, made the same as before, 3 double crochets, i picot, 9 double crochets ; work over, 25 double cro- chets; work over, 10 double crochets, i picot, after doing the first 3 chain and i treble of this picot, insert needle in top of first picot and proceed with the picot as before ; 10 double crochet; work over, 21 double cro- chets ; work over, 7 double crochets, insert needle in picot, 5 double crochets, insert needle in picot, 7 double crochets ; work over, 17 double crochets ; work over, 7 double crochets, insert needle in top of last picot, 8 double crochets, continue turning work over and decreasing until you have i double crochet, then fasten off; repeat from 6th row 3 times on remaining 3 sides of square. Re- peat the whole 40 times or according to size required, then carefully sew them together. When sewn together, double crochet all round. Repeat the first 2 rows of the square and join them all round, which makes a nice finish. Then fringe according to taste. THE CREEVE PALETOT FOR ACHILD 4 OR 5 Years Old. The model of this paletot is for sale, and may be had on application to the editor, price 15s. It forms a handsome out-door garment in fawn wool for the age stated. Materials required : — 16 skeins of best quality petticoat wool, a rather fine bone tricot crochet hook, and 2 knitting needles. No. II. For Left Front. Commence with 54 chain, raise each stitch as for tricot, crochet, on needle, work back i chain,* 4 tricot or plain stitches (drawing wool through 2 loops each stitch), i chain, draw- wool through 3 loops and the I on needle, i chain, 4 tricot, repeat from* to end of row, working the remaining stitches in tricot. Work 5 rows more same as ist row, taking care to have the proper number of stitches on needle (53). 7th row — in this row make " tufts" in the centre of the tricot stripes thus : Working between ^the 4th and 5th tricot stitches* put wool round needle, and insert needle in centre of plain stripe, draw wool through, repeat from* three times more, then draw through all the loops for tuft (9), i chain, which finishes the tuft. Work thus for all the tufts in every 7th row, and every plain stripe throughout the paletot, continuing the pattern as before. 8th row— decrease i stitch by taking 2 loops together at beginning of row. 8th and 5 more rows — same as ist, repeat from 8th row 3 times more. There will be 4 decreasings. 25th row — when 12 loops are raised on the needle make 19 chain, take out ncydle, a.r\i go back to ist stitch of the 19 chain, and raise the 19 loops on needle, miss 19 stitches (for pocket hole), and work to end of row in usual way. Continue pat- tern for 20 rows more, without decreasing or increasing, and then increase i stitch at beginning of row, every 3rd row, 5 times, then 3 rows, and for the armhole leave 1 5 The Fourth Number of the FANCY WoRK-BASKET will Shawls, Children's Hoods, Ruffs, stitches, first working them in single stitch to bring the wool to proper place to continue the pattern. 12 rows without increasing or decreasing, then at neck end of needle leave 4 stitches, and at armhole end of needle in- crease I stitch. 74th row — work 2 single stitches at neck to bring wool to third stitch, and finish row as usual. 75th row — same as 74th row. 76th row — work 2 single stitches as in 74th row at neck, and increase i stitch at armhole. 77th and 78th rows — same as 74th and 75th rows. 79th row— same as 76th row, but only working i single at neck in- stead of 2, leaving 3 stitches not worked at end of needle for the shoulder. Continue as 79th row till all the stitches are off. Work the right front to correspond with left, of course reversing the decreases and increases and For Back, loi chain, work 6 rows same as first 6 rows of fronts, commencing and ending with 10 plain tricot stitches instead of 4. 7th row — decrease i stitch at beginning and end of needle, and working tufts as directed in 7th row of fronts. 6 rows — continuing pattern. 14th row — same as 7th row. 6 more rows — continuing pattern. 21st row — same as 7th row. 6 more rows — continuing pattern. 28th row — which is a tuft row, decrease i stitch at beginning and end of needle, omit- ting the 5 centre tufts. 2 rows same as before. 31st row — 16 stitches, miss 11 stitches, 7 stitches, miss 22 stitches, 7 stitches miss II stitches, 16 stitches. Work back pattern as before. The missed stitches are for 2 box-pleats, which are sewn into place when a few more rows are worked. Work 13 rows. 44th row— increase i stitch at each end of needle. Work 3 rows. Repeat these 13 shortly be ready, and will contain tested receipts for Ladies' Capes, TTndervests, Dresses, ifec, and a chapter on Presents for gentlemen. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, last 3 rows 4 times more. 60th row — leave 5 stitches at each end of needle (for arm- holes). Work 12 rows. 73rd row — increase I stitch at each end of needle. Work 2 rows. Repeat these last 3 rows twice more. 82nd row — work 3 single stitches to bring the wool to 4th stitch. Work to within 3 stitches of end of needle, and repeat S2nd row 6 times more, leaving the remaining stitches for the neck. Sew up shoulders and sides. Sleeve. 45 chain, work as 3 first rows of front. 4th row— increase i stitch at each end of needle, repeat from ist row 6 times more, then in- crease every alternate row, each end of needle, till there are T] stitches on needle (36 rows from beginning of sleeve). 37tli row — work 6 single stitches to bring wool to 7th stitch, work to within 6 stitches of end of needle, leave them. Work as 37th row 3 times more. Break off wool. Sew up sleeve and sew it into paletot. Work second sleeve the same. For Hood. 17 chain, work same as paletot pattern, but omitting the tufts. 2nd and fol- owing rows increase i stitch at beginning and end of row till there are 25 stitches on needle, then work 14 rows without increasings. 20th row — work 5 stitches, leaving the rest of row. 2lst row — work 4 stitches, leaving the rest of row. 22nd row — work 3 stitches, leaving the rest of row. 23rd row — work 2 stitches. 24th row — work l stitch, break off wool. Leave 13 stitches (for neck) in middle of hood (19th row) and work the second side to correspond with the first, decreasing at beginning instead of end of rows. For Trimming for Bottom of P.\letot. With the knitting needles cast on 17 stitches. 1st row — knit plain. 3nd row — knit I stitch plain at beginning and end of row,* put needle into next stitch as if about to knit it, put wool round the needle and also round the first finger and the needle 3 times, knit all the loops off as one stitch. Repeat from * to end of needle. Repeat from ist row till the length required is worked. For Narrow Trimming. Cast on 8 stitches, and work in the same way. The narrow trimming is sewn on up the fronts, round the hood and (after the hood is trimmed and sewed to paletot) round the neck. Also on the bottom of the sleeves and over the pockets. Make 2 small pockets and sew them in paletot. For the Trimming at Bottom of Paletot to Edge of the Wide Knitted Trimming. Work as follows: — i double crochet into first stitch of trimming,* 8 chain, chain into 5th row of trimming. Repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — 4 treble, 2 chain, 4 treble into each 8 chain of last row. 3rd row — chain into each stitch of last row. For the Balls. * Take 2 pieces of cardboard size of a penny, cut a hole in the centre of them the size of sixpence, lay the 2 pieces together, and with a needle and the wool work over the cardboard through the holes till it is quite full. Then take scissors and insert the point through the wool between the pieces of cardboard, and cut all round, then pull the 2 pieces of cardboard a little space from each other, and tie tightly with a thread, then pull off the cardboard and rub between your hands, the cut ball nicely round with the scissors, draw a piece of wool through the ball, work 4 chain, join with a chain stitch to middle of scallop of the crochet edge, 4 chain again, and fasten thread through the ball. Repeat from * till there is a ball to each scallop. Fasten in front with a chain of wool and fasten a ball at the end of the chains : 8 of these chains with balls will be required, as also a couple of balls and short chains added to the hood. CHILDREN'S COMFOKTS. Babies are such tender little creatures, with such soft irritable skins, at first sight it would seem that anything" in woolwork would be too harsh for their wear; but this is not so if proper material be used, such as has been suggested in No. II. in the article headed " Knitting, and how to set about it." Vests can be made in many ways. Loosely knitted vests are always more comfortable than closely knitted ones. Andalusian wool is good for shoes, Berlin wool for gaiters, and soft fingering or Berlin for petticoats, &c. Nearly any garment may be made by getting a pattern and working to the required shape. Remember that knitting and crochet are elastic, therefore you must not make a knitted or crochet article quite as full in some in- stances as you would make the same garment in some material. Hats, jackets, shoes, and dresses can be made of almost any convenient wool, determining the quality by the special circumstances of the case. White wool is always softer than the wools with much dye in them. In the following pages we propose giving directions for many dainty articles for master baby, and also for his larger brothers and sisters. BABY'S LONG STOCKING, For Winter Wear or Travelling, 6 to 12 Months Old. Materials: — Merino wool and No. 15 or 16 needles. Cast on 60 stitches, 18 on 3 needles, and 24 on the 3rd. ist round: — * 2 plain, I purl. Repeat from*. Repeat the ist round till you have an inch in depth. Now knit on plain till you have 2 squares, inclu- sive of the ribbing at the top. Now make a seamstitch, and in the next round narrow on each side of the seam, having one plain stitch between the seam and the narrowing. Knit plain 3roundsAvithoutnarrowing and in the^th round narrow again. Continue in this way nar- rowing every 4th round till you have narrowed 7 times in all; thus decreasing 14 stitches. Now knit ij inches for the ankle, or about a square. Divide for the heel, taking 23 for the heel and leaving 23 for the instep. Work on the heel one row plain and the next purl, and so on for i-| inches, then take it off with a gusset heel. Take up the stitches for the foot about 17 on each side, including those from the gusset; giving a total of 57 for the foot. Knit I plain round and then narrow eveiy round by knitting together the 2nd and 3rd stitches from the end of each side needle nearest the instep till you have 46 stitches, as you had in the ankle. Knit i square (easy measure) plain, then narrow for the toe, as directed in previous numbers. Here is another way of finishing the toe: — knit a square and a quarter plain, then narrow at the end of every needle for 3 times with 3 rounds between, twice with 2 rounds between, once with i round, and then every round till finished. In dividing for narrowing as above have the stitches divided evenly into three, and if there are one or two over have them on the instep needle. Commence your count- ing from the exact centre of the sole of the foot. As all babies are not alike, it is better when narrowing the ankle and foot to con- sider whether the child has a fat ankle and plump foot, or a thin ankle and long foot, so that you can narrow a time more or less in the ankle and make the foot longer or shorter, as required. For an older child use Andalusian wool and No. 15 needles. These stockings can be pinned with safety pins to the drawers or diaper and worn inside a little flannel boot or gaiter in cold weather for out of doors. INFANTS SHORTENING UNDER VEST. Materials. — iJ oz. white Andalusian wool \ oz. of pale blue, 2 yards of narrow pale blue ribbon. Bone needles, No. 6. Cast on 64 stitches. Knit i plain line. '2nd line — wool forward, knit 2, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over the knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, commence again from * and continue to the end of the line, when you should have 8 scallops. 3rd line — purl. 4lh line — same as 2ncl. Knit 2nd and 3id lines alternately till you have 12 lines. Then knit 8 plain lines. Knit 13 stitches plainly then purl 2. knit 2, till you have only 13 stitches left on the needles, which, knit plainly. Knit thus for 33 rows or 66 lines (3 lines make a row). Then knit 2 plain rowi. Then knit first 12 stitches plainly. *Then wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, repeat from* and knit thus till you have only 12 stitches on the needles, which, knit plainly. Knit 3 more plain lines. The holes now made are for the rib- bon to be run through when the vest is com- pleted. Knit 12 plain stitches. Cast off 40 stitches rather loosely,knit theotheri2stitches plainly. Now you begin the first shoulder strap, knit back 12 stitches, knit i, wool for- ward, knit 2 together, knit plainly till you have 3 stitches left, then wool forward, knit 2 together, knit I. Knit thus for 37 i-ows, making the holes every 2nd rmu. Then cast off. The other shoulder strap is knitted just the same. This completes the front of the vest. The back is knitted the same as the front, except that there will be no shoulder straps, having made them in the front piece, when you have com- pleted the back piece, sew the shoulder straps to the back piece very neatly and sew up the sides, now with a fine bone crochet hook and the pale blue wool, crochet the fol- lowing little edge or finish round the neck and armholes, 3 douljle, then 3 chain, then 3 double, this makes a pretty finish. Then take the ribbon and run through the holes in the neck and tie in front, and run a ribbon through the holes in the armholes and tie at the shoulder. This makes a very pretty .tjest and may be made for older children by increasing the number of stitches, and the size of the shoulder straps, and the pattern at the bottom of the vest may be replaced by any other providing it is a pattern with scallops, as another would be apt to curl up. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. READY JANUARY I. No. 4 or THE FANCY WORK-BASKET Will contain clear and explicit instructions for new patterns in Ladies' crochet and knitted Petticoats, shoulder capes, cuffs, stockings, &c. Children's jackets, dresses, bonnets, infants* boots, spencers and knitted gloves, crochet antimacassars and edgings, crochet and knitted quilts, and a variety of other useful receipts. Also a chapter on presents for gentlemen. Price 2d. of all Newsagents, or 2^d. post free from R. S. Cartwright, 8, Johnson's Court, London, E.C. Nos. 1 and 2 are in print, and will be sent post free for sd. or each No. 2 Jd. No. 1 contained full instructions for work- ing everj- stitch in crochet, knitting, crewol work and em- broidery. ^_^_^^^ Mrs. LEACH'S PRACTICAL FAMILY DRESSMAKER Is published on the zdih day of every month. Price TWOPENCE, For Post Free for Six Months for Fifteen Stamps. THE CHILDREN'S DRESSMAKER Is published on the Wth day of every month, Price ONE PENNY, or Post Free for Six Months for Nine Stamps. Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, London. OUT-DOOR DRESS. For Child of from i to 2 Years. Materials: — 10 oz. fawn or cardinal single Berlin wool, longbone crochet hook,size to suit style of worker — e.j^., as wool should never be worked tightly, a person inclined to crochet tightly should have coarse hook and rjice vei'sa. Foundation to be worked in tricot stitch. Work to left hand for body of dress. Cast on chain of 70. ist 7 rows straight. 8th — take up 46 stitches and turn (object being to widen for skirt and form body), gth — straight, make one at end (left) to form neck. loth, nth — straight. 12th — work 46 and turn. 13th — straight, make one at end (left). 14th, 15th — straight. i6th — take up 46 and turn. 17th — straight, make one at end (left). iSth, 19th — straight. 20th — work 46 and turn. 21st — straight, make one at end (left). 22nd 23rd, 24th — straight. 25th— work 21 stitches and turn (object being to widen skirt at bottom). 26th — work 46 and turn. 27th — straight, make one at end (left). 28th — straight. 29th — work 21 and turn. 30th — work 46 and turn. 31st — straight. 32nd, 33rd, 34th — leave 1 2 from top (to form an arm-hole). 35th — work 46 and turn. 36th — work 21 and turn. 37th — leave 12 from top (or rather again only work to arm-hole). 38th — work to arm-hole and make a chain of 12 loops and leave open space for arm-hole. 39th — work 46 and turn. 40th, 4 tst and 42nd — straight. 43rd — work 46 and turn. 44th, 45th and 46th — straight. 47th — work 46 and turn. 48th — straight, leave one at top (to shape neck). 49th and 50th — straight. 51st — work 46 and turn. 52nd — straight, leave one at top. 53rd, 54th and 55th— straight. 56th — work 46 and turn. 57th— leave one at top. 58th and 5gth— straight. 60th— work 46 and turn. 6 1st, 62nd and 63rd— straight. 64th— work 46 and turn. 65th— straight, leave one at top. 66th and 67th— straight. 68th— work 46 and t4irn. 69th and 70th — straight. 71st — straight, leave one at top. 72nd— work 46 and turn. 73rd— straight. This completes half of dress. For second half, work from 73 to i. Sleeve. — Fasten together on shoulder 6 rows. Take up stitches round arm-hole (36 in number) with two hooks (unable to get round with one), leave opening underneath sleeve. Work 13 plain rows. 14th— narrow in centre. 15th— plain. i6th and 17th— narrow in centre. i8th to 32nd— plain. Sew up inside of sleeve and trim for cuff. Trimming for Cuff and Bottom of Dress. —Having bound left side of dress from top to bottom with ribbon and faced in- side of right with ribbon, sew over a little way at bottom of back and trim bottom of skirt. In stitch formed by tricot make 5 trebles, miss i, and make short stitch into next. Repeat all round. 2nd row— make short stitch into centre of scallop formed by 5 trebles. Take up as though for short stitch 5 loops from each side of scallop, draw wool through all 5 together and make short stitches again into centre of next scallop. Repeat all round. 3rd row— same as first. Repeat from first row. Four and a half patterns finish the skirt. Two and a half finish sleeve. Neck. — Make three stitches close together (one into each tricot stitch) by putting wool twice over needle, miss one and repeat to end. 2nd row — form a scallop by putting 5 trebles into space between 3 long stitches, short stitch into next space. Repeat to end. Run the ribbon between the three long stitches (3 up and 3 down) and draw for neck. Double the ribbon and seam into waist (bottom being 46 loops from bottom of tricot stitch). Put a runner and draw for waist. Cape.— Mrs. Leach supplies a pattern of collar with a costume for little girl of 2 years. From it cut a paper pattern full size, perhaps an inch longer, and work from it in tricot stitch as evenly as possible. A chain of 32 was cast on for specimen and 3 plain rows worked before widening for shoulders. Take care to make both halves alike. Trim exactly like dress. Bind neck with ribbon and tack on after making one pattern of the trimming; put ribbon strings. //(7/.— Make a chain of 4. Form a round by joining, into this work 4 trebles ; catch at back with a short stitch beginning and end of 4 trebles. This makes little raised knobs. Repeat and widen every other round by putting into short stitch formed at back of raised knob as well as into the one on each side of it. Raise for 5 rounds. 6th and 7th rows — without raising. 8th, 9th and loth rows — treble crochet. 1 1 throw — treble crochet in cerise. Work same pattern on the bottom as trimming for dress and cape, but reverse the hat before commencing. Tack trimming at top. Make 3 rosettes exactly like centre of crown. Tack to front of hat. Line with silk and put in cap; wire at bottom to fit child's head. Put ribbon strings. BABY'S GLOVE. Prettv, Simple, and Useful. Materials : — Andalusian wool and No. 15 needles. If you knit very tightly use No. 14 needles. Cast on 39 stitches, that will be 12 on each of 2 needles and 15 on the third. 1st round — plain. 2nd round — * wool for- ward, slip I, take 2 together and repeat from* to the end of the round. Repeat the 2nd round until you have worked an inch, or until the wrist is as long as you wish it to be. Next round — * knit 2, purl i and repeat from* until you can round 4 ribbed rounds. The next round, after the 4 ribbed rounds — * wool forward, take 2 together, knit I, repeat from * to the end of the round. Now work 4 ribbed rounds again, of 2 plain, i purl. Knit I plain round. 2nd plain round — purl the 1st stitch; knit the loop between the 1st and 2nd stitch. This raises I stitch and is the commencement of the thumb. Mark it that you may always know when you get to it. Purl the next stitch. You have now 2 purl stitches and a raised stitch between them. Knit the rest of round plain. Keep the stitches that you have purled in this round purled in all the subsequent or following rounds, until you have finished rais- ing for the thumb. 3rd round — purl the ist stitch, raise l, knit i, raise l, purl the next and finish the rest of the round plain. 4th and 5th rounds — without increase. 6th round — purl the 1st stitch as before, raise i, knit until you come to the purled stitch, raise i, then work the purled stitch as usual and finish the round plain. Increase in this way every 3rd round until you have about 15 stitches. Slip these 15 on to a piece of wool and cast 5 stitches (not tightly) on in their place. Knit 1 plain round, after casting on your 5 stitches for a gusset. Next round — knit plain until you come to the gusset. Decrease by taking 2 together, as near the middle of the 5 as you can. Narrow in this manner in the middle of the gusset, every round, until all 5 stitches are narrowed away. Now knit on plain round and round till the glove is an inch and a half long from the gusset of the thumb. It is now time to narrow off for the tips of the fingers. To do this, * knit 5, take 2 together and repeat from * to the end of the round. Begin the narrowing in the middle of the inside of the hand. Knit 4 plain rounds. Next round * knit 4, take 2 together and repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit i plain round. Next round — * knit 3, take 2 together and repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit one plain round. Next round — * knit 2, take 2 together and repeat from * to the end of the round. Knit one plain round. Ne.xt round — * knit i, take 2 together and repeat from * to the end of the round. Next and last round— take 2 together, * take 2 together and repeat from * and cast off at the same time as you work the round. Fasten oft" the end of wool invisibly and firmly, for if the dear little fingers should get hold of the end, serious consequences might result with regard to your work, as it would soon pull out. To finish the thumb, pick up the stitches from the wool and 5 at the gusset, twenty in all. Narrow the gusset by taking 2 together in the middle of each round, till you have 15 or 16 stitches left. Knit round and round till the thumb is nearly as long as the babj-^s thumb, then narrow in the next round at the end of evei-y needle. Knit 3 plain rounds. Next round — narrow at the end of every needle. Knit one plain round. Now break off the wool, leaving a short end. Thread the end into a wool needle and gather the stitches off" the knitting needles, draw them 15 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. together and fasten off firmly and neatly. Run an elastic or ribbon through the holes and put a ribbon bow at the back of the wrist. Finish the back of each hand by 3 little rows of feather stitch in silk, or add a small ribbon bow just under the knuckles. The only time when you make any difference between right and left hands, is when you begin to narrow for the tips of the fingers. You must then be quite sure that you commence narrowing in the middle of the inside of the hand. If the baby has a fat hand, add a- stitch or two to the width of the thumb and hand, if it has a thin one, add to the length or take a stitch or two from the width, if you think needful. BABY'S JACKET. These little jackets are much prized by mothers'and careful nurses for wearing in the cold weather, when the babies are just beginning to sit up. They are so simple and inexpensive, and extremely elegant withal, that they are a veiy favourite article to make for a present. Materials:— About an ounce of Shetland wool of one shade, and a small quantity of another shade for trimmings; 2 colours may be used with almost better effect, such as a blue jacket with a white edge, or a white jacket with a pink edge. The latter looks especially charming. Use crochet hook No. 1 1 or 8, just according to your style of work. The work must be even through- out, without being too tight. Make a chain of 88. 1st row — Turn, i treble into the 4th chain from the end at which you are working, I chain 2 treble into the same chain, miss 3 chain — 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into the 4th chain from the one into which you put the previous set of 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble. You have now made 2 picots or sets. This jacket is worked in picots or sets all through. We will call them picots. As above stated, you have now made 2 picots. Go on making picots into every 4th chain from the last picot, until you have finished the row. There should be 22 picots, and the last one should come into the last chain. In working the last picot you can hook in the end of wool ■left when you began the chain, and work it in. 2nd row — 4 chain, turn, work I picot into the hole in the middle of the picot in the previous row. [A picot, you remember, con- sisted of 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble, all into a stitch or hole.] *Work a picot into the middle of next picot in the previous row; repeat from * until you have worked 4 picots. And now you begin to shape the shoulder. To do this, proceed thus — into the 5th picot of the 1st row work 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble. This gives you 2 holes, so that in the next row you have 2 picots out of 1. The increasing is all like this. When the directions say "increase," work as above stated 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into the picot named. In this case you increased in the 5th picot, 3 picots plain, 16 increase in the next, 4 picots plain, increase in the next, 3 picots plain, increase in the next. This leaves 4 picots to work plain. 3rd row — turn with the regular 4 chain, and work a . picot into each hole. You will observe, please, that you have 2 picots over each increasing in the previous row. This will give you 26 picots in the whole row. 4th row — turn, 4 chain, 5 picots plain, increase in the 6th, 3 picots plain, increase in the next, 6 picots plain, increase in the next, 3 picots plain, increase in the next, 5 plain. 5th row — 4 chain, turn, work the whole row plain, that is, without inrreasings. There will be 30 picots or sets. 6th row — 4 chain, turn, 6 picots plain, increase in the 7th, 3 plain, increase in the next, 8 plain, increase in the next, 3 plain, increase in the next, 6 plain. 7th row — 4 chain, turn, work all plain. 34 picots in this row. 8th row — 7 picots plain, increase in the next, 3 plain, increase, 10 plain, increase, 3 plain, increase, do the re- maining 7 plain. 9th row — plain. There should be 38 picots in this row. lOth row — 7 picots plain, increase, increase again in the next picot, 3 plain, increase, increase, 10 plain, increase, increase, 3 plain, increase, increase, 7 plain. 1 1 th row — plain. There will be 46 picots. 12th row — 7 plain, increase, 9 plain, increase, 4 plain, increase, increase again in the next, 4 plain, increase, 9 plain, increase, 7 plain. There will now be 52 picots, including holes liihere picots would be -put in the next row. 13th row — 8 picots plain, miss 12 for the sleeve (in counting these 12 you must reckon in where you have increased). Of course, when you have missed the 12, work on into the next picot to the twelve you have missed. Go on working until you have done 12 picots across the back, now miss 12 as before for the sleeve, counting carefully, working the remaining 8 plain. You will have 28 picots in this row, and 2 holes of 12 picots each for the sleeves. Leave those for the present and finish the body of the jacket first. 14th row — 7 plain, increase, 12 plain, increase, 7 plain. 1 5th row — plain. You will find 30 picots in this row. 16th row — 8 plain, increase, 12 plain, increase, 8 plain. 17th, i8th and 19th rows — plain. There will be 32 picots. 20th row — 9 plain, increase, 5 plain, increase, increase again in the next picot, 5 plain, increase, 9 plain. 2 1st row — plain on 36 picots. 22nd row — 10 plain, increase, 14 plain, increase, 10 plain. 23rd, 24th, 25th and 26th rows — plain on the 38 picots. Break off the wool. For the sleeve you have 12 picots. Fasten on under the arm and work 3 roiinds on the 12 picots. 4th round — decrease a picot under the arm so as to have only 1 1 picots in the round ; decrease as you find best. The fol- lowing plan will serve : work 2 treble in I picot and two treble in the ne.xt. 5th round — there are 1 1 picots, as you only have i picot over the place where you decreased, and this one picot is made between the 2 sets of two treble which you made over the 2 picots. 6th round — decrease under the arm- hole once as before. 7 th round — plain. 8th round — decrease as before. gth round — plain. loth round — decrease as before. Now work the nth, 12th, and 13th rounds plain on the 8 picots. Do the other sleeve in the same way. If there appears too much of a hole under the arm where you begin to work the sleeve, contrive to crochet it to- gether in the first round of the sleeve, or draw it together with a wool needle after- wards, imitating the chain as well as you can with the needle. Make a scallop round the bottom of the jacket, and carry it up the front and round the neck. Put the same round the cuffs. For the scallops — ist row --2 treble, 2 chain into a hole, 2 treble,* i chain, 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into the next hole or picot, repeat from*; increase the treble and chain at the corners as often as necessary. 2nd row — i double crochet into the hole formed by the one chain between the picots in the previous row,* i chain, 8 treble into the middle of the picot, i chain, I double crochet into the hole between the scallop you have just worked, and the next picot, repeat from*; work the same on the cuffs. In working the 2 rows of the border, hold the inside of the sleeve towards you, so that when the cuff of the sleeve is turned back the work of the scallop may be on the right side. A few invisible stitches to keep the cuff in its place are advisable. The sleeve is rather a short one, to allow of the baby using its arms. It can be made longer if pre- ferred. If two colours are used, a stripe of the trimming colour should be put round the bottom of the jacket, and also round the sleeve. For instance, the 22nd, 23rd and 24th rows could be of the contrasting or trimming colour, and the 25th and 26th of the colour of the body of the jacket, and the scalloped edge of the trimming colour. In the sleeve, the 8th, 9th and loth rounds as a stripe, and nth, 12th and 13th rounds plain, and the scallop again of the colour of the stripe. Run a ribbon round the neck to draw it up, or crochet a chain of wool folded 3 times to make it thicker. Let the chain be long enough to tie, and add a tassel at the end. To measure for the chain, measure a piece of wool 3 times the length you wish the chain to be, add 2 other pieces of wool to this piece of the same length, and then crochet the threefold thickness into the chain required. BABY'S BOOT. Materials required — J oz. each of blue and white Andalusian, No. 14 needles. Cast on 24 stitches. Increase at the beginning of each row till there are 34 stitches on the needle, then knit 2 rows plain without in- creasing, then decrease at the beginning of each row till there are 24 stitches. Take up the colour, increase for the toe, and knit to the end of the row. Pick up 6 stitches for the heel, knit 3 rows with the coloured wool, increasing at the toe; then 4 rows of white and 4 of coloured, each time increasing at the toe. Now divide the stitches, leaving i6 on another needle; knit the 20 stitches in 5 stripes of 4 rows of white and colour alter- nately. Cast on 16 stitches. Knit three stripes of 4 rows each, decreasing for the toe; take off. Take up the stitches for the leg, 12 in the middle and 16 at the sides. Knit 6 plain rows, then make holes for the string, which is done by bringing the wool forward and taking 2 stitches together. The leg is knitted with 4 needles. Knit 20 rounds of white and 4 of colour, knitting 2 and purling THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 2. Cast off and sew up the sole. Make a chain about 12 inches long, double crochet into every chain, thread in the holes and make balls for the ends. PRETTY CROCHET BABY'S BOOT. Materials : — Andalusian wool and 1 1 or 12 crochet hook. Make 10 chain, ist row —miss I loop, double crochet into the next loop, double crochet into each loop till you come to the middle one. Work 3 double crochet into the middle loop, then double crochet into each of the remaining 4 loops. You will have 11 stitches in this 1st row, 2nd row — i chain, turn, i double crochet into the back loop of ever)' double crochet in the preceding row till you come to the middle loop of the three you put in one stitch in the previous row. Work two into that middle stitch and finish the row as usual by working i double crochet into the back loop of each of the remaining stitches. 3rd row — I chain to turn, then work a double crochet into the back loop of ever)' double crochet in the previous row, till you come to the first one of the 2 stitches that you put into the middle stitch in the previous row. Increase by working two stitches into this 1st stitch and finish the row in the usual way. Repeat the 3rd row till you have 6 ridges or 12 rows altogether. This completes the toe of the boot. To form the back, work on 7 stitches in ridges in the same way till you have 24 rows or 12 ridges. Sew the end where you leave off to the side of the toe. Top of the boot — make 21 chain, ist row — turn and miss i loop, work a double crochet into each of the remaining 20 loops. Work on these 20 stitches in ribs or ridges as before, till you have 10 rows or 5 ridges Now work on 16 stitches for 11 rows or gi ribs. Sew the last row to the first you did, leaving a little flap of 4 stitches on each side the flap. Sole : — This is made of flannel or cashmere. Cut two pieces the size required, run them together nearly all the way round, then turn them inside out. Catch the raw edges where you turned the sole and then work round the sole in chain stitch with wool to keep it flat and in shape. The dimensions of the sole when made in the model are, length 45 inches, breadth across the foot ij inches (good measure), across the instep l^ inches, across the heel ij- inches. Ifyoufeel diffident about cutting out a sole we can supply an excellent pattern of baby's shoe, No. 2340, price 2 stamps. When the sole is made sew the boot part carefully to it and then sew the top to the boot. In doing this sew the end of the small flap to the top care- fully across the instep, underneath the small pointed flap of the shoe. Now arrange the top and the shoe part evenly together round the ankle, sewing closely but not very tightly. Work a scallop round the top of the boot thus — * 5 treble between two ridges, i double crochet between the next 2 ridges. Repeat from *. You should have about 7 scallops, so put them a little closer or farther apart, as seems necessary. Now put the same scallop as the above round the join of the top to the boot portion of the work, 2 scallops in the front and 3 at each side, 8 in all. Just above that round of scallop run in a string made of double v>ool crocheted into a chain and a tassel at each end, or a small ribbon 12 nches long. Colour: — The model has a pale pink toe and pale blue upper. White and blue, or red, or dark crimson for shoe part and very pale pink or blue upper look ex- tremely pretty combinations if they har- monise with the baby's dress. INFANT'S JACKET. Materials : — Bone hook No. 4, double Berlin wool \\ ozs., 3 ozs. blue, lA white. Com- mence with the blue at bottom of jacket, make 112 chain and i to turn, ist row — i double crochet, I chain, miss I, I double crochet, continue to end of row. 2nd row — I double crochet over last double crochet, in preceding, i double crochet over chain stitch in preceding row, i chain, miss i, i double crochet, continue to end of row, care being taken to have the double crochet over the chain stitch, as this forms the pattern. 3rd, 4thand5throwssameas istand2nd. 6thro\\ — continue as above until you have worked 27 stitches, then crochet 3 stitches without chain between, continue as at first until you are 30 stitches from the end of row, then decrease as before. Decrease every other row 4 times. For front parts crochet as above 28 stitches backwards and forwards until you come to the shoulder, then make 2 chain and i to turn, work as before 2 rows, leaving 16 unworked and 14 to form the shoulder, break off. For the back part of jacket leave 2 stitches each side of front parts and work backwards and forwards until you have it equal with the front parts, then join the shoulders with wool and needle, leaving 14 stitches for back of neck. For the sleeves work 34 chain, and i to turn, work backwards and forwards for 10 rows, decreasing in the last 3 as you did in body of jacket. For the border, ist row — double trebles. 2nd row — 3 chain, miss i, 1 double crochet into next, continue. Finish off with chain and tassels. BABY'S CLOAK IN SHETLAND WOOL. This little cloak is fit for garden wear in the summer, or for the carriage or seaside in warm weather. Make a chain of 31. ist row — turn i treble into ihe 7th loop,* 2 chain, miss 2 loops, I treble into the 3rd loop. Re- peat from*. You should have 9 holes at the end of the row. The rest of the cloak is worked in picots. You can make the picots two ways. The model is rather open, and each picot is composed of 3 treble, i chain. If you wish it closer, you can make each picot of 2 treble, ( chain, 2 treble all into a hole. Do not put any chain between these picots. You increase in the open picot by working 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble all into a hole. In the 2nd and closer stitch you increase by working 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble all into a hole. We think if you just try the two ways with a bit of odd wool before beginning, you will find the above instructions clear, and by exercising a little thought will soon get used to either way. 2nd row — upon the 9 holes which you have, 3 or 4 chain to turn, I picot, increase in the next, 2 picots, then increase, 2 picots, increase in the next, I picot. 3rd row — 3 or 4 chain to turn, 2 picots, increase, 2 picots, increase, 2 picots, increase, 2 picots. 4th row — 4 picots, in- crease, 5 picots, increase, 4 picots. There will be 17 picots in this row, or at an)' rate there will be 17 places or sets which count as picots. 5th row — 5 picots, increase, 5 picots, increase, 5 picots. 6th row — 8 picots, increase, i picot, increase, 8 picots. This will give 21 picots, or spaces for picots. 7th row — 3 picots, increase, 4 picots, increase, 3 picots, inc rease, 4 picots, increase, 3 picots. This gives 25 picots. 8th row— 4 picots, in- crease, 7 picots, increase, 7 picots, increase, 4 picots. This gives 28 picots. 9th row — 9 picots, increase, 8 picois, increase, 9 picots. loth row — 5 picots, increase, 9 picots, in- crease, 8 picots, increase, 5 picots. This gives 33 picots. iith row — 10 picots, in- crease, II picots, increase, 10 picots, giving 35 picots in all. 12th row — 8 picots, increase, 8 picots, increase, 8 picots, increase, 8 picots, giving 38 picots. 13th row — 12 picots, in- crease, 12 picots, increase, 12 picots, giving 40 picots. 14th row — 5 picots, increase, 13 picots, increase, 14 picots, increase, 5 picots, giving 43 picots. 15th row — 11 picots, in- crease, 19 picots, increase, 11 picots. You will have 35 picots. i6th row — 16 picots, increase, 11 picots, increase, i5 picots. 17th row— 8 picots, increase, 14 picots, increase, 14 picots, increase, 8 picots. There will be 50 picots. 1 8th row — 4 picots, increase, 14 picots, increase, 10 picots, increase, 14 picots, increase, 4 picots. There will be 54 picots. You mustnowbegin thehood. You had gholes in the neck when you began the cloak, and you now work on those 9 holes again. 1st row — I picot into each hole, so of course you will have 9 picots in the row. Repeat the 1st row until you have 14 rows all the same. 15th row — work 8 picots only, leaving the 9th undone. i6th row — work 7 picots only, leav- ing the 8th undone. 17th row — work 6 picots, leaving the 7th undone. You now make the border. Hold the cape with the right side towards you if you think there is any difference, and crochet in picots as usual all round both cape and hood, taking care to keep the work flat at the corners, and in the neck if needful, and round the hood. 2nd round as the ist. Proceed thus until you have worked 7 rounds in the border. 8th round. Work 8 treble into each hole of each picot, keeping your work flat and nice all the time. Run a ribbon in the neck, and one down each side of the hood, drawing it up with a bow in the middle. People work veiy differently, but a moderately coarse hook about No. 7 or 8, perhaps, would suit the majority of workers. It will take about an ounce and a half, or a little more or less according to how it is worked, and how the colours are arranged. About an ounce of white and half an ounce of coloured would perhaps be right, A ver)' pretty arrangement is to have the body of the cape in white, and the first 17 rows of the hood also in white. The border could be composed of 3 rounds of coloured, i round of white, and 3 rounds of coloured again, the 8th round of white. This is, however, entirely a matter of taste. Be careful always to keep your work looking right. Even if you happen to make a mis- take in the counting, it is of %-er)- little con- sequence if the proper result is obtained. BABY'S SHOE (KNITTED). Materials: — A set of No. 14 steel needles, and white Pene- lope, Andalusian, Merino, or other similar wool. Cast on 50 stitches. I St row — knit plain. 2nd row— purl. 3rd row — * 2 plain, 2 purl. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The row will end with 2 plain stitches. 4th row — ribbed in j2 plain, 2 purl, like the 3rd row, but in this row you will notice that you begin on 2 purl stitches 17 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. and end with 2 purl stitches. Work on ribbing in this way till you can count 6 rows of ribs. 9th row — knit plain. loth row — purl, nth I'ow — you begin the pattern — slip one at the beginning of the row, * wool forward, take 2 together, knit 2. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Knit the last stitch plain. 12th, 13th, and 14th rows — like the nth row. These 4 rows of pattern form a set of pattern holes, and will be again referred to. 15th row — go back to the first row of the shoe, and repeat from^he ist row to the 14th, until you have 3 sets of pattern holes, and the .leg of the shoe is about 3 inches long. You now begin the foot: To do this, knit 16 stitches, and then slip them on to a piece of wool, holding the right side of the work towards you. Knit the next 18 stitches plain, and slip the remaining 16 on to another piece of wool without knitting them. Now work on the centre 18, going back to the 2nd row of the leg, because you have just knitted the plain row, and work on until you are ready to do the 2nd set of pattern rows in the short rows of the centre. (Do not forget in working the one set of pattern holes that you have in the flap to slip the first stitch and knit the last). Now when you are ready, as we said above, to work the second set of pattern holes, you will have worked about 24 rows in the flap. 25th row — knit plain. Repeat the 25th row until you can count 6 ribs of plain knitting on the right side. Now take up the foot. To do this, take another needle and pick up 15 stitches along the side of the flap that you have just finished working, and pick up the 1 5 that were slipped on to the wool at that side. Now knit back plain, until you come to the other side of the flap. Then take up 15 stitches to match those at the other side, and pick up the remaining 16 from the wool. \Vith the 18 from the flap and 31 from each side there T.'ill be 80 stitches altogether. Divide them equally on two needles, 40 on each needle. Knit backward and forward on these 80 stitches until you can count 4 ribs of plain knitting on the right side. To form the sole : 1st row — knit to within 4 stitches of the end of the needle at the toe, then take 2 together. Knit the remaining 2. Now knit the first 2 plain of the next needle, then take 2 together. Knit the rest of the row plain. Put a mark in the ist row of the sole that you may be able to know it. Repeat this first row till you can count 11 ribs of plain knitting on the right side since first beginning the sole at the place at which you marked it. There will be 22 rows. 23rd row — knit 2 plain, take together. Knit to within 4 of the end of the needle at the toe. Take 2 together. Knit the remaining 2 plain. Knit the first 2 stitches of the second needle plain, take 2 together, just as you have done before. Knit to within 4 stitches of the end of the row, take 2 together, knit the last 2 plain. 24th, 25th, and 26th rows — like the 23rd. Cast off as you work the 26th row; it inakes the sole flatter. Sew up carefully on the wrong side, and finish by adding a bow of ribbon on the toe, and a tie of narrow ribbon round the ankle. If you prefer to use coloured wool instead of ribbon, do it in this manner: Crochet a small scallop round the top of the shoes. A pretty way of doing this is to work 3 or 4 treble into the 4th row of knitting, between 2 plain ribs ; make a double crochet into the first row of knitting, over the next purl rib. IVIiss a plain rib, then work the treble as before into the next purl rib, 4 rows down the knitting. This makes a solid edge, and the white looks pretty showing between 18 the shells of coloured treble. Place a wool daisy in front of the toe, and another at the top of the ankle. Crochet coloured wool into a chain to tie the ankles, and add small tassels. The shoe is now very pretty, but if you are not pressed for time, and wish to have it utterly charming, add French knots in the coloured wool, at regular intervals along each side of the rows of fancy knitting, taking care that the spaces between the knots are even in size. BABY BOY'S HAT IN KNITTING AND CROCHET, OR CAN BE WORKED ALL IN CROCHET. Use white Berlin wool and a fine hook, about No. 12, or finer if wished. Make 3 chain and unite into a ring. 1st round — put 3 double crochet into each chain. 2nd round — 2 double crochet into each double crochet in the previous round. 3rd round — * i double into a loop, put 2 double crochet into the next loop. Repeat from * to the end of the round. 4th round — * 2 plain double crochet (that is, by plain we mean without increasing), increase by putting two stitches into one m the 3rd loop. Repeat from * all round. 5th round — * 3 plain stitches, increase in the 4th. Repeat from *. 6th round — *4 plain stitches, increasing in the 5th. Repeat from *. Go on in this manner, leaving one more plain stitch between the increasings each round, until the crown is about 5 inches across. Now work about 4 or 6 plain rounds, that is, with- out any increasings. This finishes the crown, and you must make the brim, ears, and fea- thers to trim. For the brim have No. 9 pins; cast on 12 stitches and work in loop knitting until the work is long enough to sew round the crown. For the ears, cast on 6 stitches, work one row in loop knitting, 2nd row plain, but increase a stitch at the beginning and end of the row. Now work 2 rows of loops as usual. Next plain row increase again at the beginning and end of the row as before. You have now 10 stitches; work on these 10 stitches until the ear is long enough. If you prefer it wider you can increase at the be- ginning and end of every plain row, instead of having 2 rows of loops worked on the 8 stitches. For the feathers, of which there are three, viz., one at each side and one in the middle. For the two side feathers you can proceed exactly as for the ear. For the centre feather, begin with 7 stitches and increase to II or 13, as taste may dictate. About 3J inches should be long enough for the centre feather and 2\ for the side. It is not advi- sable to make them too long, as they would be cumbersome and heavy if very big. Sew the feathers tastefully on, then fix the ears and strings. If you use a cap it is the most comfortable way to sew the lining inside the cap and then put the lining in the hat, letting the cap come between the silk or lining of whatever it is composed, and the hat. By this means the scratchiness of the cap, if there is any, is done away with. Caps, or lappets as they are called, are not necessaiy for these hats, but they are an improvement to one which is for better use. KNITTED CAP FOR BABY BOY. This is very easy to do, and almost prettier than the crochet caps. Materials — single Berlin wool and No. 13 or 12 needles. About 21 stitches will make the cap crown about 6 inches across. Cast on 18 or 21 or 24 stitches as desired. * Wool forward, slip I, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end. All the knitting is as detailed in the first row, but in order to shape the crown you must proceed as follows. In the 2nd row — leave the last 3 stitches unv.-orked on the left-hand needle. 3rd row — work back again. 4th row — leave 6 stitches unworked. 5th row — work back. 6th row — leave 9 stitches unworked, 7th row — as the 5th, that is, work back. Sth row — leave 12 stitches unworked. Proceed in this manner until all the stitches have been left in the manner directed and you have a section of a circle. When all the stitches have been left in the manner de- scribed, you must work down to the bottom again, and begin again with the 2nd row until the circle is complete. Sew up nicely, and draw together the hole in the centre. For the brim make a strip of loop knitting the required width, and finish as detailed for previous hat. BABY'S HOOD. Make a chain of Shetland wool about 20 inches long. Make it rather loosely with a fine hook, about No. 11. When the chain is done, turn, ist row — 5 treble in the 4th chain from the hook, * I double crochet into the 4th from the one with the double crochet. Repeat from * till you have about 13 shells. 2nd row — 3 chain to turn, and 2 treble into the last double crochet of the previous row, I double crochet between the 3rd and 4th treble stitches of the ist shell in the previous row, * 6 treble into the next double crochet, i double crochet Ijetween the 3rd and 4th treble in the next shell in the previous row. Repeat from * to the end of the row, finishing the row with a half shell just as you began it, with a half shell. 3rd row — turn 6 treble into the ist double cro- chet, * I double crochet in the middle of the next shell, 6 treble into the next double crochet. Repeat from * to the end. You begin and end the 3rd row with a whole shell. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows till your work is square. Work a scallop round half of the work, beginning at a corner and going to the opposite corner. Now work the same scallop round the other half, but on the wrong side of your work. When the border is done the work should measure about 14 inches or more, square, according to the size required. Now fold your handkerchief by turning back a corner of the last half you put the border on, nearly to the half. Draw the front up to fit the baby's face, leaving a little frill to fit round, and run a ribbon in to draw up the neck. The points of the handkerchief form the curtain. This is an extremely easy and convenient shape, as it can be made to fit any baby by altering the ribbon drawings. Lining can be added if liked, and a cap or piece of lace frilled in the front round the face. Add strings and a bow at the top of the head and the back of the neck. If there is any of the 20-inch chain left over you can cut it off and fasten off the end ; or if the chain is not long enough for your 13 shells make it a little longer. WINTER HOOD. Materials : — White, crimson, pink, or other colour of Angola wool. No. 12 knitting needles. Cast on 87 stitches, ist row — plain knitting. 2nd row — purl. Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows for 3;| or 4 inches. Then next row (a plain row) cast of 29 stitches, knit the rest of the row. In the next row cast off" 29 again, purl the 29 left. Work on the 29 left till the flap is long enough to reach to the bottom of the sides, then cast off and sew up the crown at each side on the inside of the hood. Take up somehow about 90 or 100 stitches for the curtain, and work a row of holes thus: — * knit i, wool forward narrow, and repeat from * to the end of the THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. row. Now work brioche stitch for 2 inches, tlieii cast off. Crochet a small scallop round the ciu'tain and front if you like. Finish with a narrow lace border, a bow at the top of the head, and drawn up the neck with bow at the back, adding strings to tie. A little swans- down trimming round the face and curtain is a great improvement, and not very expensive. This Avould do for a child about 12 months. It is very warm indeed, and veiy pretty. Brioche : — forward, shp i, narrow, all along. Another way, very quick. Cast on 84 stitches and work as above, but all in plain knitting. Or work in stripes of plain knitting, and then a stripe of plain and purled. For the curtain make a row of holes, then an inch ribbed, 2 plain, 2 purl, then an inch of plain knitting. Finish like the other, or as taste directs. INFANT'S CROCHET BOOTS. These little boots, though very simple to make, are pretty and warm. Materials : single Berlin wool and two crochet hooks, if convenient Nos. 9 and 12. The top is really in the shape of a nice little boot, and the sole can be made as directed below, or cut out of kid and lined with soft flannel or cashmere. Colour of wool, white and blue, or white and coral, or blue entirely. Take the No. 12 hook and make a chain of 8 stitches. 1st row — double crochet into the 2nd from the hook, * double crochet into the next loop, repeat from * once. Now put 3 double crochet into one loop, * double crochet into the next loop, repeat from * to the end of the row. There will be 9 double crochet. 2nd row — turn, I chain, double crochet into every loop with the exception of the centre loop, anci into the centre loop put 3 double crochet. You must do this and every row in Russian crochet, that is, work into the back part of evei-y loop. 3rd row — turn, i chain, double crochet into every loop. No increase in the centre stitch. 4th row — turn, I chain, double crochet into every loop, being careful to in- crease by working 3 double crochet into the centre loop. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until you have 14 rows or 7 ridges. 15th row — work to the middle of the 14th row and then make 12 or 13 chain. Work back on the new chain and the side of the toe. Always make i chain when you turn, and work backward and forward on this straight piece until you have done 25 rows or I2h ridges. This finishes the crochet part of the top. Now sew the boot up, fixing the end where you left off evenly to the side of the toe and the new cliain you cast on when you began the ankle. Do it neatly and not too tightly. For the soles : — Take No. g crocliet hook. Make 7 chain. Take up all the loops and work in tricoter. 2nd row — increase a stitch at the beginning and end of the row. Do it thus: take up the first loop as usual, now take up the loop which lies across the work, take up the succeeding loops in the usual manner, until you have done the last loop but one. Now take up the cross loop between that and the last loop. You sliould now have 9 loops on the needle. 3rd row — like the 2nd, increasing to 11 stitches. Now do 6 rows without any increasings or decreasings. loth row — decrease by taking 2 loops together at the beginning and end of the row. 1 1 th row ■ — the same as the loth. [Another way of decreasing, which some ladies prefer, is to take up the loops as usual, but when working the back portion of the row, to draw through 3 loops instead of through 2 when necdecl]. I2th, 13th and 14th rows — plain on the 7 1 stitches. 15th row — increase to 9 stitches as directed in the 2nd row. i6th, 17th and iSth rows — plain. 19th row — decrease to 7 stitches. 20th row — double crochet or slip stitch across, taking up the perpendicular loop so as to fasten it in its place. Now sew it to the boot. You can put the smooth part of the work to the baby's foot if you like. Pin the middle of the toe of the boot to the middle of the toe of the sole, and the middle of the heel to the middle of the heel of the sole. Let the sewing be firm and even and not lumpy in any way. Make a crochet scallop round the top of the ankle. For the scallop — take the small needle and put i double crochet bet\\een 2 ridges, now make * i chain, 3 treble between the next 2 ridges, i chain, i double crochet between the next 2 ridges, and repeat from *. The model is further ornamented by loops of chain arranged round the ankle, and made into a small bunch in front. The front of the shoe is laced with double wool of the trimming or contrastifig colour, worked in a large even kind of her- ringbone from the ankle to the toe. A chain of 14 or 15 inches long is threaded in every other ridge round the ankle, and tied in front with tassels at the end, consisting of a few strands of wool knotted in. The chain orna- ment can be crocheted on, but it can be arranged in a prettier way by making 2 lengths of chain about half a yard long each, twining them about one another and arrang- ing them in loops, which are caught in place at regular intervals with a little white cotton. The cotton must not show, and must be fastened off each time. These boots worked tightly in darkish wool, with the kid sole above named, are very nice for babies begin- ning to stand. The kid, of course, must be bound to the fiannel. We should think an American cloth sole would do very well for a baby a little older, instead of the kid. CHILD'S COMBINED FLANNEL PET- TICOAT, VEST AND UNDER DRESS. Materials : — 4 cuts grey petticoat fingering 2 ditto crimson petticoat fingering. For the petticoat given below you only need a very little of the 4th cut grey and the 2nd cut crimson, so that you have something over for a very nice pair of slippers or cuffs, or repairs. Size of garment : total length, 19 or 20 inches; waist about 24 inches, more or less as it is drawn up. It can easily be altered to fit children of different ages. Theknickerbocker stitch is very easy to do, and thick and warm when clone. Have No. S or 9 crochet hook. Make 171 chain rather loosely, and unite in a round. ist round — 4 chain, I treble in the next loop. In making the treble, put the wool twice round the needle, put the needle into the loop,* draw the wool through. You will now have 5 loops ; draw the wool through 2 loops, and then through the remaining 3 loops. Put the needle into the next loop, and repeat from * until you have 8 treble, counting the chain as i. Now put 3 into the middle loop, S more treble, * miss 2 loops, 8 treble, 3 treble, into the next loop, 8 treble, and repeat from *. (Each i of the 8 treble is put into a separate loop, of course.) There should be 9 scallops. Unite the first and last scallop together by the first and last treble. 2nd round — 3 chain, * i treble into the next loop, repeat from * until you have 8 treble again, 3 treble into the middle treble, in the previous round, * I treble into the next loop. Repeat from * till you have S again. There should be a loop over. Miss the l st loop of the next scallop as well ; that will be tiw loops. Work * i treble into the next loop. Repeat from* until you have 8. Now 3 in the middle one, then 8 more, miss 2 loops as before, and repeat from the isl star in the 2nd round. Always work in the 2 back loops. 3rd round — join on the crimson. You now begin the nice petticoat stitch. You would see that in the last round you had 2 loops at the back lying quite ready for you to work in. It is the style of stitch makes the v.'armth and strength of this petticoat. 2 chain, * i double crochet into the next loop. To make the double crochet wind the wool round the needle, put the needle in the loop, dr.-iw the wool through, and then draw the wool through all 3 loops at once. Work on till you have 8 double crochet. (You cannot count the chain as i, stitch after the 1st round.) Now put 3 double crochet into the middle loop, 8 double crochet (i into each of the next 8 loops), miss 2 loops, and repeat from *. Work on in this manner until you have done 4 rounds. Take up the grey and work 3 rounds. Take up the red and work i round, nth round — decrease by taking 2 stitches as i in each side of each scallop. To put the needle in nicely for this put it through the loop of 1 stitch and bring it up through the loop of the next, then crochet through the loop which this gives you on the needle. Do this on each side and this will decrease the stitches on each side of the middle 3 to 7. This will give you 17 in each scallop. Work 2 more rows with red. Take up the grey and work i row with it. This will bring you to the 15th round. 15th round — decrease as before, i stitch on each side of the scallop. Do 5 rounds without decreasing. 2 1 St round — decrease as before. 22nd round — plain without increase. 23rd round — plain. 24th rov; — you must not make this into a round ; decrease as before. 25th row — as usual, without decrease. 26th row — turn, 4 chain, * i treble into the next loop, repeat from *. 27th row — treble into ever)' loop, the same as in the 26th, with this exception : you must decrease 2 stitches so as to have 97 stitches in the row. Decrease at the hips. 28th row — turn 3 chain, * i double crochet into the next loop. Repeat from *. Be sure to keep the same number of stitches, i.e., 97. Work 6 more rows like the 28th. 35th row — turn as usual and work 21 stitches. 36th row — turn and work again on these 21 stitches. Go on in this manner until you have done 11 short rows. Breakoff the wooL This piece forms one back of the petticoat. For the front — miss 7 loops of the 34th row, and work a double crochet into the Sth loop from the back,* i double crotchetinto the next loop. Repeat from * until you have 41 double crochet. Turn and work on these 41 for 11 rows as before. For the 2nd back — miss 7 loops and work into the Sth, * i double crochet into the next loop. Repeat from * until you have done 21. You should have 2 1 loops all ready for them in the 34th row. Finish this back as before. To make the neck and shoulder, slip stitch into the 1st stitch, 3 chain, * i eniiiiary treble into the next loop. Repeat from * until you have 20 treble. Take the last treble of the back with the 1st of the front, thus joining theb.ackand the front over the shoulder. Decrease in this way — do 6 plain treble, decrease, 6 plain, decrease, 7 plain, decrease, 6 plain, decrease, 6 plain. Take the last stitch with the ist of the remaining back. Work plain across the remaining back in the usual way, putting i plain ordinary treble into each loop. A nice w.ay of taking 2 stitches together when you are shaping the neck is to work half a treble into each of 2 stitches and then finish them 19 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. off as if they were i . 2nd row of neck — work 7 plain treble stitches, decrease, 2 plain, decrease, now work plain until you are within 6 stitches of the shoulder, now take * 2 stitches together, repeat from * twice ; you thus decrease 3 stitches. Work the middle stitch of the shoulder plain. Now take * 2 together and repeat from * until you have decreased 3 stitches again to match the back of the shoulder. Decrease again at the quarter of the front, again at the half, and again at the three quarters. Shape the 2nd shoulder as you shaped the ist. For the scalloped edge, begin at the bottom of the plackethole and work up the left hand side as follows: slipstitch with red into the ist loop, * 2 chain (rather tight), miss a space equal to a large loop, I slipstitch into the next loop. Repeat from *. Put the holes a little closer round the corners. 2nd row — slipstitch over the slipstitch in the ist row,* I chain, i treble, I chain, i treble, i chain, i treble, all into the ne.xt hole, i chain, slip- stitch into the next hole. Repeat from *. Have the corners flat, not full, and do not put more work than n-ecessary in the neck, that it may keep flat and not too clumsy. For round the bottom: ist round — slipstitch to fasten on with red wool at the bend of a scallop, * double crochet into the next loop. Repeat from * until you have 8 double crochet. This should bring you to the 2 loops missed. Now put 3 double crochet into the ist loop and 3 double crochet into the 2nd, make 8 more double crochet as before, miss 2 loops. Repeat from the 1st * in the ist round round the bottom. 2nd round — slipstitch into the space between the bend, * miss i loop, 4 double crochet in the next loop, slipstitch into the next loop. Repeat from * You must manage to get the end of the 4th scallop exactly to the middle of the point, and put the slipstitch of that scallop just over the space between the 2 sets of 3 treble. You can probably manage it by working 3 scallops as detailed above and the in 4th, work 4 double crochet, i slipstitch into i loop. The simple reason is that you need 12 loops for 4 scallops and you have only 1 1 to work on, so by working the 4th scallop as stated you have a loop and the 1 1 which you have are sufficient. Work 4 scallops down the other side of the point. You thus hai-e 8 scallops evenly dis- posed over the point. Repeat from the 1st * in the 2nd round until you have completed the round. For the slee\-es, take grey wool, and draw the wool through a loop a little towards the back, make 4 chain (3 if you use double wool, to fasten on), work i treble into every loop or into a space equal to a loop. You must have 35 treble round. If you have more the sleeve will probably be too wide. 2nd round— the same as the ist, i.e., treble into every loop. 3rdround— the same. Now take the red wool and work the same 2 rows for an edge which you worked for the neck. You must have 8 scallops in the whole sleeve. When needful do a little coaxing by drawing your scallops a little nearer one another or putting them further apart. Work the other sleeve in the same way. Plait wool into a chain, or make a crochet chain to run in the waist and neck. For the waist about 5 strands of grey and 10 strands of red, a yard and a quarter or a yard and a half long. Fasten it to a table or get someone to hold it, and plait it very evenly. Sew it very care- fully at each end and add tassels. We have de- scribed the tasselsbefore, but will j ust give them again. Take a number of strands, about 20 or 24,of double the length that you wish the tassel to be; draw them through the end of the 20 plait after it has been very firmly sewn on fastened, fold the strands till the ends are even, dispose them evenly so as to hide the ends of the plait, and tie neatly round with a piece of wool threaded in a wool needle. You can thus, when you have ^vound sufficient round, fasten off the end with the wool needle more firmly and neatly than any other way. In the model the waist string is run through the lower bend of each scallop in the 24th row. The neck string is much thinner and is run through the last row of treble round the neck, 2 treble being taken up and 3 left down. The string should never be quite put to the end, as it is best to allow a little space for the petticoat to wrap o\'er and lie flat. Sew on 3 pieces of silk or binding to take the buttons. They must be sewn on the left side underneath. Now sew on the but- tons, a good sized one for the neck, also for the waist, a smaller one for the middle of the body. lu the model the buttonholes are just worked round in buttonhole stitch with red wool to make them a little firmer, but if the buttons are the right size a buttonhole can be made anywhere in the work. If you do not wish to have any wool over, you might manage with 3 cuts of grey and 2 of red, supposing you had a 3rd stripe of red in the petticoat and red sleeves. You might also have to put ribbon strings, but the quantity given at the beginning is really best, as a little wool over is so useful. You must remember that the whole petticoat, with the exception of the 2 rounds round the neck {and the sleeves if you do not want them thick), is done in the knickerbocker treble and double crochet, which is detailed with the exception named above, which is mentioned at the time. Knickerbocker double and treble is always meant throughout the directions. TAM O'SHANTER. The following directions will serve for a hat of any size. Materials — any substantial wool of the right thickness, such as Alloa yarn. Saxony wool, Berlin wool, or even firm good fingering, and No. 10 or 1 1 hook. To begin — make 3 chain, unite in a round. Make I chain, now work in long double crochet all round (see end of directions for long double), putting 2 or 3 stitches into i in the first round to make it lie flat, and afterwards increasing by putting 2 stitches into i as often as need- ful, until the crown is large enough, never forgetting to keep it flat. The crown should be about 10 or 12 inches across, according to the size of the child. Try it on, and when it overhangs sufficiently you must stop increas- ing. Now do 2 rounds without increasing, and put a mark of cotton at the back of crown. You must now decrease in just the same pro- portion as you increased, as the underneath part lies flat to the crown round the edge, until it is time to shape the under part to fit the head. When you have worked in the above manner, and as soon as it is small enough to fit round the head, work about an inch or so plain to make a band round the head. This should fit very closely, as it soon works loose. Lin^ the band with silk or calico as the case may be, or if you like you can line the whole cap. Cut first a piece of black lining the size of the crown, and then a similar piece without the centre for the under part, and afterwards line the band and make all neat. If preferred, the edge can be bound with ribbon of a suitable colour as a finish. For the centre tuft wind some wool round a card or thin book about 3-^ or 4 inches long, until what you have wound is nearly as thick as your finger. Take it off the card, keep it double as it lies, and tie it veri/ firmly in the middle, then cut it at the ends, fluff" them up into a sort of big daisy, and cut it even, then sew it on firmly in the centre of the cap. Long double crochet is made thus : wind the wool round the needle as for a treble, then insert the needle into a loop; draw the wool through. There are now 3 loops on the needle ; draw the wool through all three at once. It is slightly longer than a double crochet, and thicker and firmer, and there are two loops at the back that you can work through. A cap made in this stitch needs very light lining, if any at all beyond round the band. If preferred, ordinary double crochet can be used, as indeed it frequently is, taking up the back loop of the double crochet. Some caps are made in petticoat double crochet, that is double crochet in the usual manner, but taking up both the top loops instead of one ; but we think that all who try the "long double crochet" given above will like it, and find it more durable than the ordinary stitches. If the ordinary double crochet stitch is used, it is as well to line the cap, if wanted warm. TAM O'SHANTER FOR A GIRL. These are made very similar to those for boys, and the above directions will serve. Rather better materials are used for girls, also colours are frequently used with advan- tage. A fair girl looks very pretty with a delicate blue cap. Crimson is also very be- coming to some. Black and very sombre colours are not so often used for girls. The shape of the cap is often more drooping over the sides, and this will be obtained by making the crown a little wider before decreasing for the under part. Also silk might be used to line the band ; ribbon could be used also instead of the tuft, and if liked, a bow or feather could be introduced at one side, but the effect must be soft and without any stiff- ness. A small ostrich tip might do for effect, if you were not very anxious to keep it entirely Scotch-looking. The stitches for working, &c., are just the same as for a boy's cap. BOY'S JERSEY SUIT. For a child of 3 years, i pound of wool, and 2 sets of No. 12 needles will be required. Good stout blue fingering would do. Procure a pattern from Mrs. Leach, stating that it is for knitting a Jersey suit. Fit it properly to the child and then you can begin. The Jersey is made in 2 pieces, back and front, and then sewn up. Set on the correct num- ber of stitches for the front of Jersey. When the correct number of stitches are on, knit plain 2, purl 2, for about 2 inches deep. Now knit i plain row and the return row, purl until the Jersey front is long enough to reach very nearly to the neck. Cast off and knit the back in the same way. Sew up the sides and shoulders. Take up the stitches at the neck and knit 2 plain, 2 purl, until you have a good band for the neck. The sleeve : — Find the number of stitches for the armhole, and cast on like a stocking on 4 needles, narrowing at intervals until narrow enough to fit the arm. Then knit on plain until 2 inches short of the entire length of sleeve. The remaining 2 inches knit 2 plain, 2 purl, to make a cuff, and cast off when that is done. The knickerbockers are the most tiresome, but are soon managed with a little perseverance. The 2 legs are worked separately on the 2 sets of needles, and then joined together by the body. Set on the stitches for I leg, and knit round 2 plain, 2 purl, for 2 inches. Now knit plain, raising a few stitches inside the leg as seems 'i'HE J?ANCY WORK-BASKET. necessary, until the leg is long enough. Do the other in the same way. Now comes the tug of war, to get these two little legs properly imited. To do this simply, go on knitting round the 2 legs as if they were i, using your 2 sets of needles. As soon as they are firmly united, you must knit backward and forward for a short time to make a small hole in front. When this is done go on knitting round, occasionally narrowing up the front. When about 2 inches more are done you must begin and narrow up the middle of the back. When nearly long enough, knit about 2 inches purl and plain so as to make a belt. Cast off. NEW PATTERN FOR JERSEY SUIT- Materials: — Yarn (Alloa) No. 12 size or coarser needles. The brown heather yarn is recommended as being particularly pretty, and is a little newer and more uncommon than the blue. It is bought in cuts. Each cut costs 5d., and contains about 2 ozs. of wool. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by eight, if possible, or as near that as you can manage. This arrangement is for 2 needles. 1st row — *4 plain, 4 purl, repeat from* to the end of the row. 2nd row — *4 purl, 4 plain, repeat from* to the end of the row. 3rd row — *4 plain, 4 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row. 4th row — *4 purl, 4 plain, repeat from* to the end of the row. 5th row — * 4 purl, 4 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row. 6th row — *4 plain, 4 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row. 7th row — *4 purl, 4 plain, repeat from* to the end of the row. 8th row — *4 plain, 4 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row. Begin again with the first row. STOCKINGS FOR CHILD OF 3* YEARS. To wear with Jersey suit or otherwise. Materials: — Needles No. 14, and dark blue fingering, or colour to match the Jersey. About 3 ozs. will make them, but it is better to buy 4 ozs., and then you can repeat. Cast on 56 stitches, Knit a dozen rows of welts, either i plain, i purl, or 2 plain, 2 purl. Knit plain until you have completed 2 squares. Narrow 8 times, with 5 between. Knit i square plain for the ankle. Divide for the heel, and knit about i^ inches. Take off the heel with a gusset, which is to be found in No. II. Take up the proper stitches for the foot. Narrow every round to the size of the ankle. Knit one square plain. Take off the toe. ([) Knit 7, take two together and repeat to the end of the round. Knit 6 rounds. (2) Knit 6, take 2 together and repeat. Knit 5 rounds. (3) Knit 5, take 2 together and repeat. Knit 4 rounds. (4) Knit 4, take 2 together and repeat. Knit 3 rounds. (5) Knit 3, take 2 together and repeat. Knit I round. (6) Knit 2, take two together and re- peat. Knit I round. (7) Knit i, take 2 together and repeat. (8) Take 2 together and repeat, casting off in the same round. CAP FOR JERSEY SUIT. Unless you are very desirous to have the suit entirely your own work, we should recom- mend you to buy the cap, and it is almost impossible to give the exact number of stitches without knowing the materials and style of knitting used, and above all the size of the wearer. It is better to try on as you proceed, if possible. Use 5 knitting needles, the same size as those you used lor the suit, and cast on the 4 needles as many stitches as will comfortably fit round the child's head. To do this lake the yard measure, and whatever the number of inches round, subtract about 3 inches from it and multiply the remainder by the number of stitches in an inch of your knitting. Thus, if there are 7 stitches to the inch in your knitting and ;8 inches round the child's head, subtract 3 inches from the 18, which leaves 1 5, and multiply the 15 by 7. This gives 105 stitches to cast on. This plan will guide you, perhaps. Set on a number that can divide by 4, so as to be able to plain 2, purl 2, with- out a remainder. Thus 105 will not divide, but 104 divides and gives 24 on each of 2 needles, and 28 on each of the remaining 2. When you have the right number of stitches knit round, 2 plain, 2 purl, until the cap part is deep enough. If preferred, you could knit I plain, I purl, but the Jersey cuffs and bands of the suit should match the smaller rib. When the cap part is done, the difficult portion of the work comes in, viz., to narrow it evenly off so that it comes to a point, and falls flatly to one side, and a little towards the back if possible. You must narrow on each of the 4 needles, as seems "right in your own sight," so as to get the proper effect, and then it will not matter how it is done. It must be managed to make the cap just fit on to the child's head as an ordinary cap and the top part must be brought to a rounded point, if we may use such an expression, but perfectly flat, and must just be slightly tacked at the left side of the cap, if it does not keep its place. Sew a tassel at the end of wool or silk. To make the tassel, wind the wool round a book or board of the required length, until it is of the thickness of your finger. Take it off the board after cutting the wool, and tie it very tightly with double wool through one end to keep the wool firm. Leave those ends hanging for the present, and wind, very evenly and neatly, se\'eral strands of wool, about half an inch from the end where you tied it, round the whole thick- ness of the wool as tightly as you can, with- out breaking the wool, and fasten oft' with a wool needle. Cut the ends of the tassel evenly, and if you have a crochet hook, crochet the wool left hanging into a short chain for the tassel to hang by. If you do not crochet, plait the ends and fasten to the point of the cap. The neatest way would be to put a crochet hook through the inside of the point of the cap and draw the tassel cord through. Then give a few stitches to make all secure. JERSEY SUIT IN CROCHET. Double-Treble Stitch. Easy to Work. The following suit is similar to one, the price of which was 183. They are so cosy and useful, and many ladies can crochet who do not knit. The stitch is a special Jersey stitch, and is very pleasant to work when you have once become accustomed to it. Materials : — Alloa or Saxony yarn, or any other yarn of the right thickness. It should be thicker than fingering, and about the thickness of Alloa yarn. Heather, brown, or any colour which is preferred, will serve. The double treble is worked thus — when you have your chain, wind the wool twice round the needle, put the needle into the 4th loop, *draw the wool through, now draw the wool through 2 loops, then through the remaining 3 loops. Now wind the wool twice round the needle again, and put the needle into the next loop. Repeat from *. You will find that, whether you work on this stitch back- ward and forward, or round and round, there are always 2 loops ready for you to put the needle into. This rn.-ikes the stitch extra firm, and especially suitable for clothing which requires something strong, 'i'here is also another advantage in this double treble. If you prefer to work backward and forward instead of round and round, you can make the work look pretty much as if you had done all at the right side. This is managed by taking up the two fiont loops inxlead of the two back ones when working ever)- return row (that is, every row which you work on the wrong side of the article you are making). You must procure a good pattern of a first Jersey suit, or any size you require, and then work to the pattern. It can be worked two ways. First, work each piece of the pattern backward and forward, always taking up the two back loops in every row. Now sew all the pieces in their proper places. Crochet cuffs round the sleeves, and a collar round the neck, and a good band round the waist of long close treble. A good strong piece of elastic can be threaded through the treble to button the right width. The long treble for the band can be made by winding the wool round the needle three times, putting the needle into a loop, * drawing the wool through. You now have 5 loops on the needle. Now draw the wool through 2, then through 2 again, and lastly through the remaining 3 loops ; wind the wool round the needle three times, put the needle into the next loop, and repeat from *. Second way of working — make a chain the required length for the bottom of the trousers, unite it into a ring, work round and round until the leg is long enough, and it is time to do the body. Work the second leg in the same way. Now work 2 or 3 rounds on every stitch of the two legs to unite them. Now work backward and forward for about 4 rows to make the usual hole in front, being careful to take the two front loops in every row in which you have the wrong side of the work towards you. When those rows are done, work round and round to complete the body, making the band as above in the first description. Work the Jersey round and round until you come to the armholes. You must work a loose piece on the back and front, not forgetting to take the front loops in the alternate rows. When you come to the shoulders work round and round, decreasing at two or three places in even- round, so as to shape them ; finish off with the collar. For the sleeves — work round and round, decreasing when needful under the arm. For the pocket, make a piece of work 3 or 2i inches wide by 4 or 4i inches long, sew on the breast where the child can con- veniently reach it to get to his handkerchief. This pocket is fit for either way of making the suit. If it is your first attempt you should try the first method given of working each piece separately. If carefully done it looks very nice, and is a little easier for an inex- perienced worker. The only advantage of the second plan is that the work has no seams, and that is not a verj- serious difference. It may make the suit a little smarter. The stitch itself looks pretty nearly as well one way as the other. These are durable suits and very warm. 21 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. LITTLE KILT SUIT. Materials: — Light fawn, Lady Betty or Berlin wool, and tricoter, hook No. 7, 8 or 9, according to the style in which you work. The model was most simply constructed, and could be worked without the slightest diffi- culty from a pattern which almost any-one could cut. The bodice was a simple straight bodice, which came down several inches below the waist. The skirt was a piece of tricoter worked in a strip about 6 or 8 inches wide and sufficiently long to allow of a few pleats in sewing the skirt on to the waist. in the model the folds of the front box pleat were about 8 inches apart, and an alloAvance of about 3 inches was made for each fold. A box pleat in the centre, and 2, or at the most 3, single pleats at each side of the centre box would be sufficient for most children. Round the bottom of the kilt skirt was loop trimming rather loosely done. The sleeves were worked in tricoter, and the collar and cuffs were of the loop knitting. The bodice fastened at the back. There was a very pretty hat made on a shape — a light net shape is the best. The crown was composed of a piece of tricoter, fastened round the side of the crown as any other piece of material would be. The brim, which turned well up but was not quite as close to the crown at the upper edge as a turban brim, was lined with loop knitting loosely and lightly done, and a portion of the lining of the brim was turned over the edge. Any little space left between the brim trimming and the crown can be filled up with a straight piece of the loop knitting. Line the hat and add strings of ribbon. A ribbon bow at the back is an addition to the dress, and, if liked, one on the front of the hat. A small cape on the shoulders of the light looped knitting is a very good addition. CROCHET SHOULDER CAPE. We have repeated the following directions at special request, as they were not con- sidered sufficiently explicit by some less expe- rienced workers. Materials required : — I lb. of single Berlin wool, either white or any pretty evening shade. Medium sized bone crochet hook. To commence, make a loose chain the size of neck. Turn and make i double crochet, then work 8 treble into the third chain from hook,* miss 2 chain, I double in the next chain, miss 2 chain, 8 treble in the next chain, and repeat from* to end of row, finish with i double in the last chain. You should have 13 scallops. 2nd row — turn, make 3 chain, then work 4 treble in the first double stitch, being particular to take up cjuite the back loop. This gives 5 treble as a commencement, the 3 chain being equivalent to i treble. Now ULake one double in centre of your first scallop of 8 treble, being sure to take up the back loop, or your cape will be a failure, as it is by working on the back that the raised pattern is formed. Let us be very exact as to this back loop. On holding your work up, on the top of each row there is like a series of chain stitches, and it is the back one of these, or the one farthest away, that is meant. Now work 8 treble into the back of the double crochet that connects the 2 scallops of 8 treble, then I double into centre of next scallop, then 8 treble into next double, and so on to end of row. 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th rows same as the second. 7th row — I scallop of 5 treble (viz., 3 chain 4 treble) into double, I double into centre of scallop, then increase by working 6 treble, i double, 22 6 treble into next double, i plain scallop, increase again, 5 plain scallops, increase again, I plain scallop, increase again, i plain scallop to finish row. 8th row — plain. 9th row — 3 plain scallops, increase once, 2 plain scallops, increase once, 3 plain scallops, increase once, 2 plain scallops, increase once, 3 plain scallops to finish row. loth row — plain, nth row — 2 plain scallops, increase once, 2 plain scallops, increase once, 9 plain scallops, increase once, 2 plain scallops, increase once, 2 plain. 12th row — plain. 13th row — 5 plain, increase, 2 plain, increase, 7 plain, increase, 2 plain, increase, 5 plain. 14th row — plain. 15th ro« — 8 plain, in- crease, 2 plain, increase, 5 plain, increase, 2 plain, increase, 8 plain. i6th row — plain. 17th row — 7 plain, increase, 2 plain, increase, n plain, increase, 2 plain, increase, 7 plain. Then work 33 rows plain. This completes the cape. For the border join wool on right side of cape and make 10 chain, join by working i double into the 7th from needle, turn and work 15 treble into this loop, join the circle by one single, now work 3 chain and put I double into the fourth treble of first scallop. Work this border closely round edge of cape, about I to each scallop and i between is enough, and crochet a row of scallops, similar to body of cape, round neck. For the cords and tassels, make a chain of double wool sufficiently long to twist in medallions as shown in the engraving, then finish each end with tassels and sew on. CROCHET HOOD— VERY QUICK PATTERN. Materials : No. 9 or 10 hook, and about 2 ounces of wool. Wind the end of the wool several times round the little finger or the fore- finger. 1st round — make 18 treble into the round and join the last made treble to the first one. In making the treble, wind the wool round the hook and draw it through the loop in the usual way, but draw it out quite a long way so as to make the treble stitch a long one. With a little practice you can make your treble stitch J of an inch or more in length. This gives a fluffy and pretty appearance to the work. All the trdik throughout the hood is made in this manner. 2nd round — turn back, that is, turn the work with the wrong side towards you, and *make 2 cliain, miss a loop, I double into the next stitch, taking up only the back loop, and do it all very loosely. Repeal from * all round. This is a simple round to bring you back to your starling point, and takes off the plainness of the article. 3rd round — 3 chain, and do not count these chain as a treble, * I treble in the next back loop, 2 treble in the next. Repeat from *. There will be about 27 stitches in this round. 4th round — like the second. 5th round — 3 chain, and do not count them in beginning the rounds, * I treble in the next loop, I treble in the next, 2 treble in the next. Repeat from *. 6th round — as the second. 7th round — make the chain as usual, then increase by putting 2 treble into every 4th loop, all round. 8th round — like the 2nd. 9th round — i treble into every loop, lotli round — you should now have a slightly shaped crown, about 7 inches across. Work as in the 2nd round, till you have about 3 inches left undone. Leave these 3 inches undone for the neck, and henceforth work in rows. 1st row — 3 chain to turn, work I treble into every loop. 2nd row — work the length of the row as directed in the 2nd round. 3rd row — i treble in every loop. 4th row — back as usual. 5th row — treble in every loop. 6th row — like all the other alternate rows, yth row — I chain, I double crochet in the first loop, * I double in the next. Repeat from * till you have done 12 double crochet ; now do a short treble, then in the next stitch draw it out a little longer, till in the 1 6th stitch the treble are as long as in the rest of the hood. Go on working I treble into each loop until you have 15 treble left ; now make each treble a little shorter, and a little shorter, till you come to the 12th stitch from the end. of the row ; work a double crochet into the 12th stitch, and end the row with 12 double crochet to match the twelve you began the row with. This is quite easy to do, though it takes a long while to describe. Work back as usual. 9th row — treble in every loop. loth row — work back as usual, nth row — treble into every loop. I2th row — work back as usual. 13th row — you can leave this out if you are tired ; work 5 treble into the 3rd loop of the 9th row. This brings your work over the lith or last row of treble, I double into the 4th loop of the lith row, * miss 3 loops, 5 treble iiJto the 4lh loop of the 9th row, miss 3 loops at the top of the nth row, I double or slip stitch into the next loop. Repeat from *. For the curtain — worlc 3 long loose treble into the end of each treble row, and work them about the same fulness across the back of the neck. Finish by working one or two row of * 2 chain, miss i loop, double crochet on the next, all very loosely. Repeat from *. Add crochet strings at the necl;, and if it seems large round the face draw it in with needle and wool, or crochet a row of slip stitch to keep it firm. If you wish a smaller hood omit 2 rounds of the crown (the 7th and 8th rounds) and 2 rows of the front (the 5th and 6th rows). The first article of any new pattern takes a little longer to do, but these are very pleasant easy work, and can be made very pretty by a little row of cheap lace. in the front, and some narrow ribbon threaded through one or two rows of the hood. Thread it under 2 treble and over 3, and make a little bow at the top. SALE AND EXCHANGE COLUMN. An Invalid Lady would be glad of orders for lovely large Knitted Shawls, 2 yds. square, similar to one de- scribed on p. 12, and which was presented to H.R.H. Princess Beatrice as a wedding gift. White, £,\ os. 6d., carriage free. Colours a little more. These are really splendid shawls. Also can undertake to embroider and crewel Babies' Cloaks, Pelisses, Frocks, &c., or Ladies' Garments. Elastic Lady's Under Vest knitted with crochet yoke, 3^'. C)d. Pretty Baby's Crochet Boots, grt". pair. Very handsome crochet and mignardise lace, xs. per yard, 2^ inches deep. Pretty 2-inch lace, 6d. per yard. Insertion to match, 6d. per yard. Fine narrow lace, suitable for babies' garments, "^hd per yard. Insertion to match, -z^d, per yard. Address with Editor. Rhmunerativk OccuPATiONS FOR Lauie.s, showing how to obtain employment, and giving reliable information on all the numerous occupations by which a good income may be realised, (^d. post/r^e. Address: Mrs. G., Bazaar Agency, Leamington. The Creeve Knitting Card. —Rules and scales for knitting stockings and socks of any size. A perfect fit ensured. By A. E. K. Price ■3,d. each, post free. Box 10, P. O., Ballymena. Needlework for Ladies for Pleasure and Profit. — All the new Art Work. Directions for lovely things in Knitting and Crochet. Price is. jhd. post free. Address: "Dorinda," Ringrose, Malvern Link. Practical Artistic Patchwork. — The Twist, Oriel, Mosaic, Roman Star, and Mexican Stripe, also the new Eiderdown, which makes a handsome winter coverlet; the six patterns, artistically coloured, including full-sized diagrams for cutting papers, _ 14 stamps. Address : "Dorinda," Ringrose, Malvern Link. The Creeve Paletot, for a child of 4 to 5 years, handsomely worked in a pretty shade of fawn, as described and illustrated on p. 13- Best quality wool. A most warm and stylish garment. Price \<^s. Address with Editor. This artiqie can be really recommende c'. SKr^ C*. ^5^ Tf^ iiV- A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, PRESENTS FOR GENTLEMEN. Gentlemen are always rather troublesome to dispose of when they come on the " presents to be given " list, although most of us regard them with quite friendly eyes when \\e are to receive and not give a present. We believe this trouble does not so much arise from meanness on our part, but from the extreme difficulty we experience sometimes in finding- something to give which will be useful and not too expensive. We do not know that \\e can suggest very much, but something may possibly be found below which will help out those who wish to make presents of their own work. Much depends on the character and general habits of the gentleman in question. It is of veiy little use giving collar boxes, &c., to a somewhat untidy man, who has always had all his " traps " put away for him by con- venient sisters or kindly mother ; unless you are desirous to inaugurate a new regime, and coax him into being a little more tidy and self-helpful. Our idea is that it is rather a good plan to do so if you can. After this little introduction, we will proceed to describe some pretty and convenient articles for a gentleman's room. Shirt Box. A wooden box of suitable size covered and lined, with a small cushion on the top of the lid, is very handy. A division could be made at one end to contain collars, handkerchiefs, scent bottles, &c. You can put the division in yourself, if \ou are anything of a joiner, by fastening small screws from the outside into the edge of the dividing board. Have long thin screws, or fine long steel wire nails, for the purpose. The cover of the box can be of any convenient material. Quilted satin, embroidered cloth, a stray remnant of serge trimmed with gimp or braid, or crochet lace, or other thick wool trimming. Satin or embroidered cloth can be stretched on plain, but chintz and less expensive materials can be pleated. In all | cases cushion cord hides joins satisfactorily, and is not veiy dear. As many people ex- perience a difficulty in fixing the inside hning of such abox,wemay suggest that there is a plan mentioned below for arranging the lining of a "pincushion trinket box," which might be adopted for any portion of the shirt box which you couldnotarrangebynailing. In any case we think you will make a much neater piece of work by only nailing the side linings, and putting the lining of the bottom of the box in after the manner described further on in the description of the trinket box. As satin for quilting does not require to be very expensive, you might, if you have to buy, have rose-coloured satin outside, edged with cushion cord, and a bunch of cord to open the box, and the inside of pale blue satin, surah, or sarcenet, quilted with only a very thin layer of cotton wool. To quilt you require your satin, some wadding, and thin muslin. Lay your satin face downwards, arrange over it an even, thin layer of cotton wool, and over that thin muslin. Tack altogether very evenly, and all over ; then machine with the proper colour of machine twist. In using silk it is just as well to have a larger stitch than for cotton; a good medium stitch is best. If liked, a dainty brass padlock can be fitted to the box. The above directions as to quilting, &c., can be applied to numbers of things, and especially the Pincushion Trinket-Box. The covering can be made of remnants of silk, velvet, satin, silk and lace combined, &c., SiC, and the lining of white, pale pink, blue, crimson, or green quilted silk, &c. Glue is a great assistance in the work. For the lining you can cover pieces of cardboard the exact size of the sides and bottom of the box, and glue them in. In fixing them you can leave the upper edge loose so as to turn it over the edge of the box. If you do not do this you must glue a piece of silk along the edges where the box closes. The bottom is neatly covered by taking a piece of cardboard the proper size, covering it with the lining, turning in the edges nicely, and then, when the sides are fixed, laying in the bottom the last thing. Glue it or not as you like, and think needful. This is the plan we spoke of for the shirt box. You can also, if you like, cut cardboard the shape and size of the outside of the box. Arrange your \'el\'et, or material, on the card and sew them in place, down each edge. Finish the joins by cord along each join. Now make a really prettily shaped pin- cushion, sew it or glue it to the top, and fasten the cover by sewing to the lining of the lid. Cover the join round the edge with cord, and a bunch of cord or ribbon to lift the lid by. Trim the top of the cushion with lace, if you like; in that case you can omit the cord, if you can hide the join any other way. The inside of the box is lovely for rings, iSic. If you like you could hive a large box, about twelve inches square and six inches deep ; have a division for rings at one end, &c., the other part for liandkerchiefs. It is a great addition to make a little pocket for a bottle of " Old English Lavender," placed in with the handkerchiefs. You could finish with a tiny padlock if you liked. We cannot imagine anj'one being so cold- hearted as not to appreciate a handsome and useful present as above. If the recipient be a gentleman, it is possible, if he is on sufficiently good terms with the giver, that he will make a small amount of fun of the present first, just to tease, and say he has no use for it ; and he will immediately put his handker- chiefs in the receptacle and gratefully use the scent. The above is suited for lady or gentleman. Another Useful Present. There are, at the present time, many portable folding dressing - cases made of [holland or cloth. They can be purchased traced and ready to bo worked. If you wish to make a case all yourself, study those you see in the shop windows ; then find out the number of articles the gentleman uses, and cut out in holland, quilted silk, or what- ever you have, a case large enoug h to hold the things you think he needs. Make a pocket for all, not forgetting comb and brush, and, if he ti'avels much, a little department for a few buttons and needle and thread, &c. Bedroom or Study Slippers. The above could be made very inex- pensively if you had a remnant of material lying idle. Get a good pattern, and also buy proper slipper soles, fleecy lined and bound round with braid. If you cannot get these, buy the best you can, and line with flannel, and bind with braid yourself. Make the slipper of velvet or quilted silk, which you can do yourself on the machine, or out of an old cloth dress ; line with flannel or silk. In making up, jom the backs first, having the edges inside. Then pin or tack the lining and outside together, turn in the edges where you sew it to the sole ; sew them strongly enough to hold until you get them sewn permanently to the sole ; bind the instep, and then sew to the sole. Before placing the outside and the lining together you may embroider a rose, or spray of flowers, or bunch of forget-me-nots on the toe. In sewing to the sole at the toe, gather it round the toe like a block toe. Anoiher W.W. Crochet to pattern in double Berlin wool in two shades of olive green or golden brown, arranging the work in alternate rows of the lighter and darker shade. Work in ribbed crochet to pattern, increasing when necessary, and work firmly to keep the work in shape. Line with flannel or not, as you think necessarj', binding the instep or finishing with a crochet edge. Some Further Ideas — Not New, cut Useful. Dressing-gowns, dressing, smoking, or study jackets, pocket-handkerchiefs, with the name embroidered in the corner, sinoking- caps ; and if you do not mind buying a present, a tray for pipe or cigar, with a match- box and ash-tray. You can get a sn'.all Japanese set. A pipe rack is also very useful. For a gentleman with luxurious tastes, the bolster suggested below is good and easy to make. A Cosy Chair .and Neck Bolster. Make the bolster just a simple round neck bolster, cover with silk or knitted squares sewn together, &c., and hang by cord on the back of the chair ; give the gentleman a good high tea, and afterwards give him his slippers and dressing-gown ; instal him in the easy chair, seeing that the neck bolster is in the right place; then if he is dreamy and smokes, hand him pipe, tobacco, and matches; if he is political, the newspaper, and tiy to THE FANCY WORK-BASKET appear interested in the sage remarks he makes ; or, if he is literary, hand him the last magazine; or musical, sit down to the piano and play for him, or if you do not feel you can do that yourself, get some young lady friend to do it for you, so giving you time to mind the baby or mend the stock- ings, and it seems to me, if the baby does not cry too much, or something unforeseen happen, all this, added to a pleasant fireside and well kept hearth, ought to render you able to laugh in your sleeve at the club attractions of the whole city. Men are very human, very human and mortal indeed, and as a rule go where there is most comfort and attraction. Don't say, " Don't go out," or appear anxious specially. A little anxiety on your part may be "fetching," but don't let it verge on ill temper. Simply coax, wheedle, persuade, or otherwise make him so cosy by his own fire, that no other will have the slightest attraction. To do this is worth a good deal of trouble, but it pays well. Many small domestic jars and troubles arise from apparently little things, such as the mislaying of the newspaper, slippers, pipe, string, &c., and below we will just think how we can so manage that nothing of that kind shall happen, except just often enough to prove the proverb, "Accidents will happen in the best regulated families." But we will try to have them happen quite seldom, although in small rooms there is often a difficulty in keeping them quite tidy, especially if there are young children. Respect for the property of others should early be taught to children, and with a little tact and patience can easily be instilled in their minds. It is aggravating to a man with a hobby, for instance, to feel that he cannot leave any- thing at home for fear the little boy will get it. Teach your children to respect " father's, big brother's, or sister's things," and in a little while they will be interested in seeing that father has what he wants, and toddle off to fetch the paper or slippers for him. Below we will mention a few litlle places which can easily be made for things which often have no settled place. Good Newspaper Rack. It is often troublesome to dispose of news- papers where gentlemen like to keep them. Get a blue or red flag pole ; it will cost you 8d. or IS. Purchase at the same time two gilt acorns, to put at the ends. Saw the pole the right length to hang a newspaper on. You must have it about 3 inches longer than the newspaper down the middle fold when it is folded once. Then fix your gilt acorns, add a piece of curtain cord, and hand it up as you would a picture. You spread the newspaper over the pole ; the middle fold of the paper lies along the pole. If you do not wish to go to the expense of a Vought pole, there is another plan below. Plainer, but quite as useful Paper Rack. Take an old broom handle ; cut a piece out the right length. Screw in at each end, in the centre of the pole, a small screw with a ring attached, tie string or cord into the rings, and you have a rack, as before. By putting coloured cord to the rack, and stain- ing the wood with permanganate of potash, you get a very pretty rack. You require ij or 2 yards of cord. Another Way. Use plain stained wool, add gold acorns at the ends, or a small turned knob, and hang up by wide coloured ribbon, adding bows at each end when you fix your ribbon to the pole. The ribbon should be pretty strong, about 2i inches wide. You will need about one and three-quarter yards for the hanging, and a yard and a quarter to make the two bows. In using ribbon you could have your pole about 6 inches longer than the paper, so as not to mess the bows every time a paper is put on. This is a very hand- some rack indeed. Crochet String Bag. Take a ball of string, and crochet a little bag to fit it, in pale blue, pink, or crimson macram^ cord or ordinary string. The latter acts quite well. Use ordinary treble stitch, with a chain between each treble. Make a nice little scallop round the top, and crochet two strings to run in, the length of the strings according to the height of the place from whence you wish the bag to hang. About a yard is a good length. By putting two strings you have the bag always even. You join the string aftei running it in into a circle, then pull out the strings, one from each side. By a yard we mean a yard before it is joined. The two strings is according to the old-fashioned plan of making bags. Slipper B.ag. The above can be made of any scrap of cloth or cretonne, velvet, silk, &c., and trim- med with braid, crochet, &c. Cut the bag the shape of the slipper or just an ordinary straight bag. Or make it with a pretty frill round the top and two strings; one to draw up from each side. This is the prettiest way, and could be adopted if the material of which you make the bag is worth the extra work. A circle of forget-me-nots round the words " Father's slippers " would be pretty ; or any little design of flowers, outlined children, &c., would be very appropriate in the centre of the front of the bag, or an outline of a slipper. Study Paper-weight and Pincushion. Another very convenient little thing for the table is a paper-weight to keep papers and letters in place. Cut a piece of card- board in the shapeofaheart, diamond, or sim- ple circle, cover it with velvet, and ornament the edge by sewing on beads, so as to make a sort of cord round the edge. For the weight get a tiny basket, the shape of a small tub, or get a little wooden tub. Fill tYv^o-thirds of the basket or tub with shot to weight it. Then fix a Httle pincushion on the top of the shot either by sewing it in the basket or gluing it in the tub. Fill it with pins. It will be appreciated. Another Way. Use a small tub, and screw it into a tiny square or block of stained wood, about 2.i or 3 inches square. Fill with shot as before, for two-thirds of the way up the tub. The pincushion at the top can be made of scarlet cloth made in the shape of straw- berries, with little black specks marked in by ink or sewn in with black silk. Add a little leaf or two, either of green cloth or arti- ficial bought leaves. A small plum or two in purple or plum-coloured cloth is also good. EMERY Cushion. Although not strictly a gentleman's article it is always useful. Make a cushion in the shape of strawberries, pluins, &c., or quite plainly shaped like a Httle pincushion. Fill it with emery instead of bran. You will find it very useful. Other Hints. Among.st other things quite useful and easy to give as a present is a paper-knife. A bright boy fond of tools could carve one out, or you can buy a pretty one quite cheaply. This and a paper-weight and small tray for odds and ends, pens, pencils, &c., and a good pen-wiper would make a useftil and inexpensive set for a present. Pen-wipers. The above can be made of a circle of cloth or velvet, embroidered and button-holed round, with circles of silk or cloth or good soft calico underneath. Fasten in the centre by a button or some of the little china orna- ments—owls, babies, little Red Riding Hoods, &c., which you can get for a penny or so each. Another Good Pen-wiper. Have a small glass, something like a round salt-cellar; place in it a soft sponge. Keep it always wet lay having water in the bottom of the glass, but not enough to spill. The one before us is a pink crackled glass, like a large fiat salt-cellar, with the edges turning over the top, just enough to keep the sponge under the edge; but curved edges are not needful at all. Another Plan. Some gentlemen like a small tall jar, like a spill glass, filled with fine shot, to just stick their pens in. For all sorts of pens this is a method often used, as it is less trouble to the writer than the other methods, and is universally liked. A child's drinking cup makes a good receptacle for the shot. The above articles are principally for a man with literary tastes, but those for slippers, pipes, &c., could be used for almost anyone. Another nice little thing is a small bolster pincushion to hang on the dressing-table or against the wall. One about 4 inches long and ij in diameter is a good size. Tobacco Pouch. The above is a good present for a gentle- man who smokes. You can buy one m kid, with the design stamped into it, at any fancy shop. A dove-coloured pouch worked in cardinal and gold, or a brown pouch em- broidered in blue and gold, or some shades of brown, would look very rich with pale blue and cardinal. Filoselle is the usual material for the embroidering, but knitting silk, or even wool of a suitable shade, might serve. Another Style. You might perhaps make one in the follow- ing manner: Cut the shape out of satin from an old pouch, line with silk, and put oil-skin of fine good quality between the lining and the outside satin to keep the goodness in the tobacco. Bind with silk braid. This ar- rangement will require careful sewing, to manage the oil-silk, which is indispensable in a pouch of this kind. The appearance of the work will be much improved by a flower embroidered on one side and a monogram on the other. Of course this must be done before the pouch is made up ; and be careful so to arrange that the embroidery really shall come on the outside when the pouch infolded into its proper form. Any colour will do ; but gentlemen seem usually to prefer dark colours. Olive green, navy blue, very dark red, or dark brown or chocolate will look well and be serviceable. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Pocket Handkerchief Case: Handy, Simple and Durable. The aljove is so simple, and yet durable, that gentlemen, who do not " like fads " as a rule, make no difficulty about taking a handkerchief out of the case named, and it has the advantage of always keeping the handkerchiefs in one spot, a great desidera- tum. Materials: — Silk, satin, or anything suitable that you happen to have, and sar- cenet to line, wadding and muslin. Take a piece of silk 25 inches long by 10 inches wide. Lay a very thin layer of wadding over the wrong side of the silk, and cover the wadding with thin muslin. Tack the three materials firmly together, and either quilt it yourself or get it done at one ot the many places where they do work of that kind. When quilted, turn in the edges and tack them down to the following size. When turned in, the silk should be 22:J inches in length, and SJ in width. Now take the sar- cenet and tack it on to the inside of the wadded silk, turning in the edge, and hem- ming it down, at a distance of | of an inch (or more if you prefer) from the edge all round, so as to conceal raw edges and ends of stitching cottons. When this is done, fold 5i inches up at each end to form a pocket. Fold it wrong side out first, and stitch, or rather seam, the sides of the folded ends by hand very neatly and firmly. When both the sides of each end are sewn, turn it right side out, and the case is finished. The hand- kerchiefs are put into the pockets at each end, and the piece of ij inches or so in the middle between the pockets acts as a hinge; and enables the case to shut up like a book. Colour: — The model is in black corded silk, quilted in squares with rich cardinal rather coarse sewing silk, and sarcenet silk lining of the same cardinal as the sewing silk. Any colour will serve, and the case can be made of any size to suit a special folding of handkerchiefs. Another Design of the Same Article. Omit the quilting, and embroider a spray or small bouquet on one side, and on the other the monogram of the intended owner, with a fern leaf or other spray under the monogram or in the corners. Measure care- fidbj vjhat will be the outside before doing the embroidery. Smoking Cap : two or three ways. . This might be crocheted in single Berlin wool, with a rather fine hook, or in fine wool — Andalusian, for instance — and a very fine hook. This latter plan would look very well. Make a sufficient number of chain for the depth of the brim of the cap and allow a few chain for turning up if preferred. It would look neater turned up inside. Now work in tricoter until the brim is long enough to go round the gentleman's head. Break off and sew the ends together on the wrong side very carefully. Now crochet the crown. Make 3 or 4 chain, work double crochet into the round, till you have made a flat round ring to commence your crown. It will perhaps take from 8 to 12 double crochet to do this. 2nd round— double crochet into every double crochet in the previous row, taking up both the back and front loop of the double crochet you are working over. Increase by putting 2 double crochet into i when necessary to keep the crown flat. When the crown is large enough sew or crochet to the brim. Line with silk or whatever is convenient, and finish with a tassel, tuft, or button. The above way o( doing the crown is firmest, but the usual method of only taking the back loop will perhaps please some best. In any case a rather fine needle should be used. A pattern could be embroidered in gold and cardinal on pale blue tricoter. Finish with tassel or button. Another: Velvet or Silk. Purchase, or make, a pattern of a cap made in five sections. Embroider a design if liked on each section separately, or a trailing pat- tern, when the cap is joined, to trail all round the brim, and then from the trail all round a small spray could be arranged to lie upwards towards the centre of each sec- tion. When this is finished press on the inside carefully, line with silk, and finish off with a tassel. Materials : — About ^ of a yard of 30-inch lining, J of 20-inch. It is better to buy a pattern, but in case this is not convenient, the following plan may help you : Cut a circle of paper as near as possi- ble the size of the gentleman's hat crown. If you have no hat crown to go by, cut it about 7 or 8 inches in diameter. Now fold it in half, now in a quarter, and crease it well so as to get the middle of the circle of paper. Now open it once, so that it lies before you in half. Now fold this half-circle into 5 exact sections and crease well. Now open out all, and you will observe that the whole circle is divided into 10 sections, and two of the ten sections will be equal to one-fifth of the whole crown. Now cut out 2 of the sections in i piece, and lay it upon an oblong piece of paper the e.cact width of your section at the hottomin the widest part. Now cr*:,0-'vt the section in the paper, and in addition leave a piece of the paper 3^ or 32 inches in depth attached to the section of the crown at its lowest and widest part. The last cut paper should be I of the whole cap. Cut 5 pieces out in lining, allowing good turnings all round. Tack them together, being careful about the points in the centre of the crown. Try on the lining and alter where necessary. If well cutjthisis averypretty and comfortable shape, particularly for elderly gentlemen. The same pattern with management might be worked in crochet. Captain Lynn Cuff. Much liked by sailors and those exposed to the weather. The advantage of this cuff is, that it completely fills the coat sleeve and prevents the wind penetrating, without in the least interfering with the use of the hands. Materials: — About 2 oz. navy blue wool double Berlin or fleecy of the same thick- ness as the Berlin, and No. 9 pins. Berlin fingering was used for the model. It goes a little further, but it is not quite so thick and warm as double Berlin. Cast on 48 stitches for a cuff about 8 inches wide ; for a less size 44 stitches or even fewer would serve, as the knitting is very elastic. 1st row — * 1 plain, I purl, repeat from *. Always slip the first stitch of every row. Every row the same. When about 12 stitches long, or when you have used up the ounce of wool, and think your cuff will be long enough, cast off very loosely. Now sew the two sides to- gether on the inside, turn it right side out and then double the cuff; sew the two ends very loosely together, so as to make the cuff double. When the sewing is finished, fold the cuff so that the sewing of the ends comes quite in the middle of the inside. Do the other cuff the same. When finished they are pretty and very itseful. Muffler Pattern. No. 9 needles, fingering wool. Cast on the number of stitches you need for the width. About 50 would be a good number. Knit 4 rows plain. 5th row — * Wool forward, take 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the row. 6th row— Like the 5th row. 7th, 8th, 9th, loth rows— Plain. Begin again with the 5th row. You can knit in this pattern for 10 inches, then a yard plain, then 10 inches of pattern. Crochet a row of double crochet, all round the muffler, not too tightly, so that it will be elastic. Then fringe the ends. If preferred, knit the pattern the whole length. Close-fitting Business Cuff. Materials : — About I oz. of German fin- gering, blue, brown, dark crimson, or black. No. 14 or 13 needles. Cast on 36 stitches. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — purl. 5th row — plain. 6th row — plain. 7th row — purl. Sth row — plain. 9th row — purl. loth row — plain. Begin again with the first row. This pattern, although very easy, brings the work in close- fitting ribs. When long enough to go round the hand, cast off and sew the ends together. If preferred, crochet a row of plain double crochet as a finish to the top and bottom of the cuff. Chest-Comforter suitable for Gentleman. Materials :— About 2 oz. best white finger- ing, and pins No. 8 or 9. Cast on 57 stitches. The 57 stitches make it from 8 to 9 inches vnde. If wanted wider, cast on more stitches in threes. Knit in brioche until the chest-preserver is as long as you wish it to be. From 11 to 12 inches is a suitable length. When long enough cast off. Now cast on the same number of stitches, i.e., 57, or more if you have them. Knit plain backward and forward until your plain knitting is just the same size as the piece of brioche. Now lay the plain knitting at the back of the brioche, and either crochet or sew the two pieces together. Now sew a piece of broad tape to the right side long enough to hang it round the wearer's neck, so that it shall not interfere with the set of the shirt collar. Make a button-hole or loop at the other end of the tape, and sew a large button to the left side. Button the tape on to the button, and the work is finished. To Make a Double Comforter for Back and Front. Proceed as above, making two comforters instead of one. When they are finished, either knit a strap or use tape for each shoulder. Fasten in front with a button and loop on the left side. Vest for Gentleman. When made, the half width of this vest is from 16 to 18 inches, but it will stretch for putting on purposes to from 25 to 30 inches in the half width. Materials: — From 5 to 6 ounces of drab wool at 3W. per ounce and No. 3 or 4 knitting pins. Cast on 84 stitches. If you wish to enlarge, we may mention as a guide to you that about 6 stitches make a trifle more than an inch. Having cast o» your 84 stitches, knit in brioche for i a yard. Now knit the shoulder strap. To do this, knit 18 stitches (or 6 sets of brioche) at one side for 5 inches in length. You can either take an extra needle to do this, or shp all but the 18 stitches required on to a piece of wool. Now do the other side in the same way to make the second shoulder When that is THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. finished you have the back of the vest and 2 shoulder straps attached, one of them being threaded on wool, or on an extra needle, and the other one being that on which you are working. Now cast on 27 stitches to this latter shoulder on which you are working. These 27 make half the front. Work for 5 inches on the 45 stitches, then slip them on to wool or another needle, and cast on 27 stitches to the other shoulder, and work for 5 inches as before. The object of these separate pieces is to make a vent down the centre of the front. Having finished the 5 inches of the second half front, cast off 6 stitches at the end nearest the centre of the vest. Now knit along the 8 stitches left on both needles, or spare wool, as you knitted for the back, for 13 inches. This makes the whole front of the vest 4 yard long, like the back. Cast off loosely at the bottom. The 6 stitches you cast off at the end of the second front of the vent is a little flap to fit inside to keep the vest closed over the chest. It can be tacked in its place with a few stitches. Now sew up the sides, leaving 2 inches on the hip if liked, and 6 inches for the armhole. For the sleeve, either take up round the sleeve (if you have pointed needles the right size), or what is easier, cast on 63 stitches on the ordinary needles, and knit brioche for 2 inches. Cast off and sew into the armhole after having sewn the two sides of the sleeve together. Be sure that all the sewing is very ehzstic. You can crochet a scallop round the edge, but it must be of a very simple descrip- tion if for a gentleman, as it is not usual to ornament their undergarments much. If a string is wished, a row of holes can be crocheted round the neck, and a row of loose double crochet on the too of the holes and round the sleeves. If preferred the holes may be omitted and the following scallop will serve for both sleeves and neck: — Scallop. Double crochet between a set of brioche, * I chain, 4 treble between the next set of brioche, I chain double crochet between the next set of brioche, repeat from *. This vest can be made a smaller or larger size, and is suitable for either lady or gentleman from its elasti- city, whilst the great simplicity of the work renders it pleasant for dark afternoons or any time when much eyesight is not required. Brioche has several tim'^s been explained, but we give it to save tim'. ; * wool over, slip I, take 2 together, repeat from *, and every row alike. Abergeldie Gloves. The model for gloves in No. II. is similar in every respect, but the colour and wool, to Abergeldie gloves. Use Alloa yarn and No. 12 needles, and you will find probably that the model given in that number will give you a very good medium-sized man's glove. Tightly knitted as directed it will give a glove about 4j inches across the knuckles when the glove is laid flat, but, instead of 3 inches, you must plain and purl for 4 inches. They are very elastic. If you do not think that the model will be large enough, you can cast on a few stitches more and there are very full directions in number referred to for increasing or diminishing the size. Unless you are a very accom- plished knitter, we are afraid you would find it very troublesome to knit colours into the fingers. You might do as many of the gloves are done — make it coloured in the body of the hand. To do this, when you have finished the plain and purl, take a ball of scarlet or blue. First row, coloured — as soon as you have knitted tv^o stitcMs past the 6 thumb, * knit I stitch with the scarlet, I stitch with the plain, repeat from * until you have knitted across the back of the hand or right round if you like. Second row, with colour — knit two stitches past the thumb, * knit I stitch scarlet, knit i with the plain, and repeat from *. Third row, with colour — knit only one stitch past the thumb, * knit I stitch scarlet, i stitch plain, and repeat from *. Fourth row — the same as the third. Go back to the "first row, coloured," and repeat from that row. You will see this plan makes a little pattern — 2 scarlet rows come above 2 plain rows. The fingers can be done in the same way, but they and the thumbs are very often left plain. Crochet Gloves. Gloves can be done in crochet, but the work is not quite so suitable for ordinary wear as knitting ; double or single crochet will do. Single crochet was used by Mdlle. Reigo in her Crimean gloves. To begin, make a chain long enough to go round the wrist; make it into a round. You must not make it too tight, but just so that it will slip over the hand, unless you make the glove to button. Work a straight piece round until time to increase for the thumb. Increase regularly at one, two, or three places, as necessary to enlarge for the thumb. When you have done this sufficiently, and the depth of your work reaches the place where the thumb spreads from the hand, leave out the portion you have increased for the thumb, and work on the hand-part round and round until time to work the fingers. Now divide carefully for the fingers. Count the stitches. Suppose, for instance, you have 40, not counting the thumb. Fold your glove, so that the thumb goes just underneath as in an ordinary glove, and mark where you fold at the edges at each side; also mark off i, 2, or 3 stitches (as the case may be according to the coarseness or fineness of your work) on each side of the central marks. Now do not count these marked-off stitches in dividing the remainder, because they simply stand for the 3 or 4 chain you make between the fingers when you are making the rounds for the fingers. In reckoning the number of stitches for each finger, you may reckon a stitch or so more for the middle finger than for the others, and a stitch or two less for the little finger. If therefore you divide your stitches, on each side between the marks you have put, by 4, you can manage thus. We supposed 40, and suppose you marked 4 stitches at each end. That leaves 32 stitches, making 16 at each side between the marks. Now divide 16 by 4; that gives 4 stitches to each finger. Now we said that we must count more to the middle finger than the little fin- ger ; so we will say 4 to the forefinger, 5 to the middle finger,4 to the thirdfinger, and 3 to the little finger. Thus we put the stitch that we take from the little finger to the middle finger, and 4, 5, 4, and 3 stitches make the 16 at our disposal. Having counted and marked your stitches, you must make, for such an arrangement as above, about 5 stitches between the fingers, and, in the next round but one, decrease it to 4. This makes a small gusset, relieving the fingers from the excessive tightness often felt at the bottoms of the fingers in hand-made gloves. You now finish the fingers by working round and round each of them in turn, according to length required. Finish the thumb in the same way, not forgetting to make a small gusset by decreasing a few times on the inside of the thumb, and tapering all the ends off by decreasing. Decrease by working two loops into one. Double crochet, to work — draw the wool through a loop: now draw it again through the two loops on the needle. Single crochet, put the needle in a loop as before ; now draw the wool through the loop, and also at the same time through the loop on the needle. The latter is a somewhat closer stitch, and in rather fine wool with fine needle would make a very nice glove for country wear, or wearing without a muff. Single Berlin or a coarser wool, but fine hook, would do, perhaps No n or 12; or No. 10 for coarser wool. Mittens of Rabbit Wool. These are rather expensive, but so durable and warm, that the first price is often not grudged for the loved ones who go to business through all weathers. Materials : — 4 balls rabbit wool, price about 3s. 6d. for the 4 balls, of grey, which is a favourite colour ; knitting pins about No. 14 to knit them firmly (No. 13 will do if you have them and knit pretty tightly). Cast on 16 on each of 3 pins, ist row — * knit i plain, i purl, and repeat from * all round. Proceed in this manner until you have worked 14 inches. It is now time to increase for the thumb. Mark a stitch in the middle of one of the needles and in- crease on each side of it about every 6th row. To keep the ribs even, you must increase 2 stitches on each side of the centre rib. That will be 4 stitches on each row of increasing. You must increase 16 stitches in this manner, and if it appears to be increasing too sharply, let the increasings come every 7th row. When 4I or 5 inches are done, slip off the 16 stitches you increased on to a piece of wool. Cast 6 stitches on in their place, and then go on knitting round the hand as usual. Next round, decrease a stitch in the middle of the 6 you cast on. This helps to form half of the gusset. Go on decreasing a stitch in the gusset every round until all the 6 are gone ; then work on round the 48 stitches which are left until the cuff is long enough. The model is 7 inches long. Cast ofTmoderately tightly. For the thumb — pick up the 16 from the wool and the 6 from the gusset, work a round, then decrease in the centre of the gusset as before, as when you worked the gusset in the hand. When all the 6 are decreased away, work on the 16 for I J or ij inches and then cast off. These 16 stitches are for rather a thin thumb, so if the gentleman has a plump thumb, you must increase to 18 stitches in the body of the hand, and slip those 18 off to form the thumb. For a thin hand, cast on 40 or 42 stitches in the first instance instead of 48. Gentlemen's Bicycling Hose. Materials ;— S of a pound of Alloa heather yarn at 3s. 8d. per lb.; 4 needles, No. 12. This size is adapted for a moderately tight knitter. Cast on 88 stitches— /.^., 28 on each of two needles, and 32 on the third needle. Knit 2 plain, purl 2. Proceed thus till you have knitted 11 inches, or if they are to be gartered below the knee, 8 inches will be sufficient. To narrow — in the middle of the needle with 32 on it, take 2 of the purl stitches in i. This will be the seam stitch. Fasten a piece of white wool in the purl stitch to mark the narrowing and in every subsequent narrow- ing draw an end of the wool through the seam stitch in that row. This plan saves many mistakes, and much wearisome count- ing, as it is very difficult to count among the dark ribs. Knit 3 rows after making the seam stitch, then narrow on each side of it, always leaving i stitch between the seam and THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. the narrow, and be particular to have that i stitch a plain one, not purl, or your knitting will not come right. Knit 6 plain rounds, narrow the 7th. Continue thus till you have narrowed 1 1 times on each side of the seam- stitch. Knit 3 rounds. You will now find if you have arranged the ribs regularly that you have 65 stitches on the needles, in ribs of 2 plain and 2 purl, with the exception of the seam-stitch rib, which has 3 stitches in it. Purl those 3 stitches into 2, making 64 stitches for the ankle. You can now go on knitting 2 plain, 2 purl, for 44 inches. Divide for the heel, being careful to have the 2 stitches which you made out of the 3 in the exact middle, or you will spoil your stock- ing. Make the heel. A fine wool worked in with the Alloa yarn makes it firmer. There were several heels in No. II. of the Fancy Work Basket, but the following gusset heel will be found to suit this stocking. The straight part of the heel should be about 3^ inches in length. To begin the gusset — you have 15 stitches on each side of the two centre purled ones, mak- ing 32 in all. 1st row — knit 17 of your 32 (you do not rib the gusset), take 2 together, knit I. 2nd — slip the 1st stitch, purl 3, take 2 together, knit i. 3rd — slip i, knit 4, take the stitch you purled after narrowing in the preceding row, and i beyond together, knit i 4th — slip I, purl 5, purl 2 together, purl i. 5th — slip I, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit I. 6th — slip I, purl 7, purl 2 together, purl i. Go on knitting I row plain and purl alter- nately; of course, always taking the last stitch of the preceding row and another to- gether, and knitting l beyond till you have taken all the stitches. Take up the stitches on each side of the heel, 25 in all on each side, which, with the 32 of the instep, make 82. Knit I plain round. To narrow for the foot — take 2 together at the end of each side needle nearest the instep, knitting always i stitch at the end of the needle before and after you narro\\'. Narrow every round. When you have 64 stitches (the same number that you had on the ankle), knit 54 inches. In knitting the foot you only rib the instep. For the toe, which you knit all plain — ist narrow — knit 9 stitches, take 2 together, knit 9, take 2, knit 9, take 2 together, to the end of the round. Knit 8 rounds. 2nd — knit 8 stitches, take 2 together, knit 8, take 2 together, to the end of the round. Knit 7 rounds. 3rd — knit 7, take 2 together, knit 7, take 2 together, to the end of the round. Knit 6 rounds. 4th — knit 6, take 2 together, knit 6, take 2 together, &c. Knit 5 rounds. 5th— knit 5, take 2 together, knit 5, take 2 together, &c. Knit 4 rounds. 6th — knit 4, take 2 together, knit 4, take 2 together, &c. Knit I round. 7th — knit 3, take 2 together, knit 3, take 2 together, &c. Knit I round. 8th — knit 2, take 2 together, &c. Knit I round. 9th — knit I, take 2 together, &c. loth — take 2 together, take 2 together. Knit a round, casting off at the same time. Fill up the hole with the end of worsted, darning it neatly in and out. This stocking is full sized. Tam o' Shanter. Materials required:— 3 ozs. of crimson finger- ing or Berlin wool, medium-sized bone hook. Commence with 6 chain, and work 8 double crochet in the circle, run a cotton in to mark the beginning of each round. 2nd round — 2 double crochet in every stitch. 3rd round — 2 double crochet in the first stitch, and i in the next stitch, repeat from the beginning of the round. 4th round the same, sth round— I double crochet in each of the first 2 stitches, and 2 in the third stitch, repeat. 6th round — 2 double in the first stitch, and afterwards in every seventh stitch. 7th round — 2 double crochet in every tenth stitch. Continue the double crochet, in- creasing at intervals in each round as is required to make the work lie flat until you have a piece measuring 1 1 inches in diameter; then work 4 rounds of plain double crochet. In the next 2 rounds de- crease by missing every seventh stitch until the cap is the size required ; decrease about 6 times in each round. For the band work 6 rounds of plain double crochet. A tuft of wool is to be added in the centre of the crown. Make a lining with wool or with silk the colour of the hat. Braid Watchguard, in Four Strands OF Braid. Materials : — Flat watchguard braid, of a pretty firm kind if possible ; 4 pieces of cardboard to wind the ends of the braid on, and a cotton reel with a moderately small hole. The quantity of braid will depend on the size of the guard. Wind the silk braid flatly on the cardboards. Each end of the braid must be wound on a separate piece of card. The braid can be in 4 separate pieces, or in 2 pieces wound up at the four ends till there is only about a yard left in the middle to begin with. The directions are given for the latter arrangement. Take a few inches of the braid and make it into a loop, now put the loop through the cotton reel, and either pin the end to your knee, or slip it round your little finger. This is to enable you to keep the work firm till you have fairly commenced. We would here just remark, the work seems rather tedious to begin, but that feeling soons wears off, and it becomes quite mechanical and easy. Hold the cotton reel between the thumb and forefinger of the left- hand. Slip one end of each strand of braid through the loop and draw them both through for about half a yard, and hold them firm between the forefinger and middle finger of the left hand. You have now 2 strands left hanging loosely just in front of you. Take care that the braid is just level with the top of the reel, and that it is quite flat. Now put your thumb on the right-hand one of the two strands that are hanging loosely Just in front of you. You have 2 strands held, down by your middle finger, and one just in front of you, held tightly under your thumb, and another just in front of you to the left of the one under your thumb which is quite loose. You are now ready for the first or foundation round: — Keep your thumb, holding the right- hand strand just in front of you still down, and throw the end of that strand across the reel to the other side. There is thus a large loop made by your thumb holding the braid. Now throw the strand which is to the right of the one under your thumb (which you can call the 2nd strand) towards the left side of the reel over the ist strand you threw over. Now bring the strand which looks to the left of that 2nd strand across the reel to the front, that is, to this side of the reel ; and finally bring the fourth strand through the loop made by holding the braid with your thumb. Whea this is done, draw up all closely and flatly.^ and above all evenly. This "row gets the braid into position, and is quite the hardest.. The braid should be crossed as you see it in, the engraving. 1 Second round : — Put your thumb again on the strand of braid in front of you to make a loop as before. In this round the 2nd strand you use is to the left of the ist strand just in front of you, The 3rd strand is to the right of that, and is exactly opposite to you. Tha 4th stiand is on your right hand. Keep your thumb in the loop, put the end of the braid over to the opposite side, cross the 2nd strand over that, the 3rd over the 2nd, and the 4th- over the 3rd. Slip the end of the 4th strand through the loop formed by the first and draw all up flatly, evenly, and closely. Third round : — Put your thumb on the braid that hangs down in front, and make the loop as before and throw the end of that strand across the reel to the opposite side. Next take the strand to the rir/kt; in this row as the 2nd strand, throw it to the left over the reel. Bring the 3rd strand from the opposite side of the reel to this side and hold it down as well as you can in addition to the loop. Now slip your fingers through the loop and draw the 4th end through. In this row the 4th end is at the left. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rounds alternately until the guard is long enough. The guard is soon done when you have properly commenced. Be very sure to get the foundation round right, and all else will be perfectly easy. Fasten off ver>' neatly, and cut the loop which you made at the begin- ning, and draw it out and attach swivel and pendant. The cotton-reel is not an absolute necessity, but tends to keep the work even. Supposing you should be so unfortunate as to require to join the braid during making, proceed in this way. Cut the 4 strands of uneven lengths, then join a fresh piece of braid with fine sewing silk as neatly as possible to each strand. By this method all the joins come at different places, and any unevenness resulting from one join may be disposed of before you come to another join ; whereas if all four are allowed to be close together, the result will be a thick unsightly piece, which will spoil the appear- ance of your guard. Silk Braid Watchguard. This watchguard is constructed on the same principle as the knitting on a rack frame. It is quickly done, and the operation is veiy simple, though we are afraid it will be some- what difficult to describe clearly in words. The materials are of the simplest description, consisting of a cork with a hole of about a quarter of an inch in diameter (not more) or a cotton reel of soft wood. Cut three pins in half, and drive the pointed halves into the cork or reel, at equal distances round the hole, as near the edge as pos sible, to allow them to be firm. They must form an exact triangle. This forms the frame. In addition you require a coarse pin or darning needle with a sealing- wax head. Silk watchguard braid completes 7 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET the materials. We think the soft flat silk braid would be the best. Look at them both when ou purchase, and take that you think you will like best. To commence — put the end of the braid between the pins through the hole, and let it come through the cotton reel. Hold it firmly between your Httle and third fingers of the left hand, and hold the frame between the thumb and forefinger of the same hand. Please notice, the braid comes up on the inside of the pins. Now twist the braid round one of the pins, bringing it from the inside to the right of the pin, then round to the front or outside of the pin, then to the left of the pin till you bring it inside again. You have thus made one twist round one pin from right to left. This is the first pin. Take the V aid across the inside to the pin on the right- hand of the one you have just done, and repeat the process. This is the second pin. Do the third pin in the same way. You have now three pins with a twist on each. This is the first row. Second row — make a twist in exactly the same way round the pin on which you put your first twist. You now have a pin with two twists on it. To make the stitch, take your darning needle, and lift the twist you first made on the ist pin over the second twist you made on the ist pin. Twist the braid now round the 2nd pin, and lift the 1st loop on the 2nd pin over the 2nd loop on the 2nd pin. Repeat the process with the 3rd pin. Every row is like the 2nd row. The result is a very handsome tubular cord, which will soon present itself at the lower part of the cotton reel. You must hold the single braid and afterwards the cord quite firmly while you are working, or at any rate, pull it down every stitch or so, to keep it even. All depends on keeping the braid even. A soft round braid might be less trouble to keep even, but it would scarcely fill up like a flat braid. The first inch or two of your cord may not be quite even, but you can cut that off when done. When your cord is long enough, fasten off. You will probably find it best to thread the stitches either with the braid itself, or very coarse firm silk. Sew a swivel to one end, and if you have it, attach a pendant for the button-hole at the other. If you have to cut any oiT at the beginning be very careful to fasten the end off properly. Thread each stitch and fasten all off invisibly. These are very strong good guards. Bead Watch-Chain. Materials : — Rather coarse purse twist, black beads, and hook 17, 18, or 19, ac- cording to the size of silk. Reckon I oz. of beads to about a skein of silk. Thread the beads on the silk ; now make a chain of 7 stitches, and make it into a round. First round (which is tiresome) — put the hook into a loop, * draw the silk through ; now push up a bead close to the work, and then draw the silk through the two loops on the needle; put your hook into the next loop, and repeat from *. Work on round and round the 7 stitches in this manner until your chain is long enough. Attach a swivel at one end to match the black, and if con- venient a pendant at the other, with a loop or bar to fasten at the button-hole ; or make the chain long enough to go round the neck and add the swivel where the two ends join. The number of skeins of silk will depend on the length ; about 4 or 5 skeins for an Albert, perhaps, and beads to correspond. Gentlemen's Suits, Dressing Gowns, Morning Jackets, Smoking Cap and Underlinen, how to Cut out and Make at home, see No. 78 of the Practical Family Dress- jKaker, price »^d., from Mrs, Leach, 8, Johnson's Court Fleet Street, London, E.G., or of all newsvendors. ' 8 Gentleman's Knitted Socks. Materials required : i set needles, No. 14 — 3 skeins white German wool, and 2 skeins of cardinal. Cast on 96 stitches white wool — 3 purl, 3 plain. Knit 12 rows. Join the cardinal — knit 3 rows. Then 3 white rows. Then 7 rows cardinal. Next 3 rows white, then 3 car- dinal. Knit 5 rows white. You have now 36 rows in all. It is better to twist the two colours in the seam stitch or there will be too many joins. 37th row plain — make i stitch. Now see that you have 97 stitches on all four needles. Now form the pattern on the 38th row. Knit I, wool forward. Knit 3. Knit 2 together. Slip i, knit i. Pull the slip 1 over. Knit 3, wool forward. Knit i. This must be repeated as many times as the sock will allow, 12 stitches to each pattern. Next row, knit plain. 40th row pattern, 41st row plain, 42nd pattern, 43rd plain, 44th pattern. Here count that you have the proper number of stitches. Now 3 rows cardinal, 3 rows white ; 7 rows cardinal, 3 rows white ; 3 rows cardinal, next 12 rows white — and so go on till the sock is the length required. Every other row must be plain — every other pattern. At the 73rd row, knit 6 plain each side of the seam stitch, and so continue. 74th row, reduce 2, and reduce every 6 rows till 83 remain ; this must be done in the plain rows. Every pattern row : knit as much of it as you can. For the heel, put 41 stitches on the back needle, 2 r on each side needle, then knit round. Knit the 2 next each side needle, on the front plain ; that will leave the half pattern. Knit the heel till you have 34 rows ; then knit 6 past the seam stitch, turn, purl back 12, then purl 13 and 14 together. Turn, knit back 12, then knit 13 and 14 together, and so continue till you have only 14 on your needle. You must now take up 16 stitches on each side of the heel, and make stitches till, with the two plain from the front needle, you have 34 on each side needle. Then knit one plain and one pattern row, reducing 2 in every plain row till you have 80 stitches on all four needles. Keep making the stripes and pattern, as directed above, till the foot is long enough. When you begin for the toe, leave the pattern, and knit plain from the seam stitch on the side needle. Knit 17 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 2 plain; slip next, knit next; pull the slip i. Continue plain till the next side needle, then as the first side needle, counting from the seam stitch. Next row plain. Reduce every other row till 24 stitches remain. Knit ofif from the front. The above pattern looks well in narrow stripes, two colours, five rows each stripe. Gentleman's Housewife. This useful present can also be made to look very nice, and is sure to be appreciated. Cut a piece of strong linen for foundation 23 inches long by 5i wide. Cut one end round for flap. The model was grey and white linen. Cut another piece 12J by 5 J inches. Hem the ends and lay it on founda- tion about 2 inches from round end. To form thread case run four rows of machine stitching along these two pieces of linen at equal distances, about i inch apart. Take a piece of fine flannel 4 by 4J inches. Edge it | the edge into small points. Sew it across foundation i inch from thread case down the centre to form needle-book. Cut two rounded flaps of American cloth 3J by 2 inches. Line them with linen and bind along rounded side with binding. Tack them lengthwise on each side of foundation opposite each other, close to needle-book. For button bag, take a piece of fine unbleached linen or silk 10 by 54 inches. Make it into a bag with string case for a double running string. Sew the bottom of bag across foundation close to flaps. Take a piece of strong linen 4i by 54 inches. Hem it across and lay it on foundation close to button bag for a flat pocket opening towards straight end of housewife. Cut a rounded linen flap, bind it and lay it across end of housewife so that it will fall over pocket. Take 4J inches of broad ribbon and lay it lengthwise between leather flaps, running it to form places for scissors and bodkin, thimble, &c. Cut American cloth exactly same shape as foundation linen and bind them neatly together. For pincushion make a roll of flannel 5 inches long by 3 inches in circumference. Cover with a piece of silk and gather in the ends like a bolster. Cover two small buttons with silk and sew to each end to hide the gathers. Sew the pincushion to flat end of housewife. Sew |- yard ribbon to centre of rounded end of housewife to tie it up when rolled. Furnish with buttons, scissors, tailor's thimble, bodkin, &c., tailor's needles and pins, black, white and grey unbleached thread. Another Housewife. Rather more Fanciful. Procure | of a yard of crimson or navy blue ribbon, about 4 inches wide ; line it with another ribbon or a piece of brown holland, and at one end turn it up so as to form a pocket 3 inches deep; at the other end let there be a mattress-pincushion, 2 inches deep, and the width of the ribbon. On this pincushion place a couple of pieces of flannel, overcast at the edges, to hold the needles, with small loops underneath on the surface of the pincushion, through which to pass a bodkin, scissors, and penknife. Next, cut a piece of silk or holland the same width as the ribbon, and about 15 or 16 inches long, which lay flat upon the housewife, and run on, in four divisions, to hold skeins of cotton or thread, darning cotton or wool, and a skein or so of black sewing silk. In drawing these threads into place let the looped ends be next the pincushion, so that the cut ones may be stored away tidily in the pocket, where a few shirt and other buttons may be placed. Put a double string in the centre of the pocket at the edge, and roll up the housewife from the cushion end. Concluding Remarks. There are yet many useful things which might be made for gentlemen, but we have already bestowed a large share of space on the sterner sex. As, however, the gentlemen are an engrossing subject generally, we may perhaps be pardoned if ^\■e add a few more suggestions before closing the present article. To one fond of reading by the fireside in the evening, a comfortable house-jacket would be acceptable, or a dressing-gown to such as have occasionally to rise in the night, or who have a passage or two to traverse to the bathroom. We fear this chapter will seem a very prosaic one to some, but one of the rocks upon whicli present-givers strike sometimes, is that of loading gentlemen with charming but useless knick-knacks which cannot be appreciated with coloured silk in blanket stitch, or cut except in rare instances. A man cares so THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. little usually for all the small things which "delight a woman's heart," in fact they " bother " him, although he does appreciate the kindness which prompted the giver, and would endeavour to requite it. As a general rule useful presents are best, and it is hoped that this paper will prove of service in aiding our readers to' make a suitable selection, which shall prove satisfactory to themselves and the recipients. PRETTY CROCHET EDGINGS, &c. YERV" SOFT CROCHET LACE. Materials : Coate's 24 or 30 crochet cotton, and steel needle 4 or 4^. Make a good length ot chain, about 2 yards or so. Do not break it off, but leave about half a yard loose, and wind round the ball of cotton. Fasten it with a pin, leaving about half a yard loose. Now take another ball of cotton, and make i double crochet in first of your piece of chain, miss 2 chain, wind the cotton round needle, and insert in 3rd chain, pull cotton through, now draw through 2 loops only, leaving 2 on needle, as shown in top edging in engraving, * miss I chain, wind cotton twice round needle, and insert in next chain, pull cotton through and draw through 2 loops only, leaving 2 on needle. Repeat from * till you have made 1 1 of these double trebles. Now miss 4 of the foundation chain, and work i ordinary treble in the 5th. Now commence to draw the cotton through 3 loops at a time of those left on your needle, as in tricoter, till all the loops are worked off. Reference to the engraving will show our meaning. 2nd row — 3 chain, cotton once round needle, insert in 2nd treble of previous row, draw cotton through, then through 2 loops, * cotton twice round needle, insert in next treble, pull cotton through, draw through 2 loops, and repeat from * 4 times more, or till you have 6 trebles or 6 open holes— that is, not closed in at the top. Cotton once round the needle, insert in next stitch, draw cotton through, then through 2 loops, and repeat in every stitch till you have 9 trebles close together over 4 holes in previous row ; miss I in the foundation chain, and make i ordinary treble in next, then, pull through 2 loops till all are worked off. 3rd and 4th rows the same as 2nd. You will have i hole less in each row at the top. 5th row — 3 chain, wind ':otton once round needle, insert in next treble, draw cotton through, then through 2 loops, * cotton twice round needle, insert in next treble, and draw cotton through, then through two loops, repeat on next treble, then miss a treble between each, till you come to the last of the 9th treble in previous row, then work a long treble into the same chain that holds the treble in previous row ; miss a chain of the foundation, and work i long treble into next 3 times. You have now 1 1 holes. Work off. Repeat from 2nd row till you have sufficient for your purpose. If you have made too much chain unravel to end of lace, and fasten off. If not enough, work some more with another needle. This stitch is called the Victoria stitch, and the directions for working it will not be repeated in other directions, so that when treble is mentioned it will be understood to be to wind cotton once round needle, insert in stitch, draw cotton through, then through 2 loops, leaving 2 on needle till end of row. Long treble is worked the same, except that the cotton is wound twice round needle. Care must be taken not to work over-tight in working off, as all the beauty of the lace depends on this. Mignardise braid is some- times used for the foundation in place of the crochet chain. SOFT CROCHET LACE. No. 2. Coate's cotton, 24 or 30. Victoria stitch. Make separate chain, as in previous direc- tions ; begin with double and work 16 open holes on the chain, missing one chain between each long treble; then miss 4 chain, make proper treble in 5th chain, and work all off backwards. 2ndrow — 6openholes, 7 treble over 3 holes, make 3 open holes, 7 treble over 3 open holes, miss i chain, make a proper treble, and work all off the needle. 3rd and 4th rows — The same, only i open hole less at top of each row. 5th and 6th rows — All open holes. 7th row — 10 open holes, then cotton twice round and treble into the chain at same place as the last treble stitch of last row, then 5 more open holes on foundation chain missing i between each treble, then miss 4 chain I proper treble, and work all off; there should be i5 open holes besides the one at turn of the front. Repeat from 2nd row. If the first pattern has been worked, you will find no difficulty in doing this one, which is precisely the same, except that there are two groups of treble to each point instead of one. Insertion to Match. Coate's crotchet cotton, 24 or 30, and steel needle 4 or 44. Victoria stitch. Make a chain on separate ball and proceed as in the soft crochet lace. ist row — Make 11 open holes of long treble with i chain between on foundation chain, always keeping the last top stitch on needle, then i proper treble into 4th chain, and work backwards all off the needle. 2nd row — 3 chain, i , treble, into 2nd treble of previous row, i long treble into ne.xt, and repeat till three are 5 open holes in all, then work 9 treble over 4 open holes, i open hole put cotton twice round, treble into foundation chain at the same place as last treble stitch of previous row, then miss 3 chain and i proper treble, then work all off. 3rd and 4th rows are the same, but will decrease i open hole each row at the beginning, and increase I open hole at each end. 5th and 6th rows are all open holes ; there should be 1 1 besides that made by putting treble into the foundation chain . It is needful to notice this often, as it easily gets out of order at the edges. 7th row — Make 5 open holes, 9 treble over 4, 2 open holes besides the one made by putting treble into the foundation chain; work all off and repeat by starting at 3rd row. In fine cotton these make very soft and durable trimmings. BABY'S EDGING. Materials required : — Narrow Gordon braid and fine crochet cotton. This makes a most delicate trimming for infants' gar- ments, which is much more durable than boughtarticles. Fortheheadingwork i double crochet into first picot of braid, 2 chain, i double crochet into next, and repeat ; for the edge, double crochet into first picot on the other side of braid, * 2 chain, 3 long treble in next picot, 2 chain, i double in next, and repeat from *. Baby's Insertion. To match the above, ist row — Double crochet into first picot of braid, 3 chain and i double crochet in next loop, and repeat foi length required. 2nd row — Double crochet in centre stitch of the 3 chain, 3 chain, double crochet in centre of next 3 chain, and repeat to end, and then work the same 2 rows on other side of braid. CROCHET LACE. For this pretty lace use antimacassar braid No. 2, and Coate's crochet cotton No 24. 1st row- — In first loop of braid put 3 long treble drawn up into one stitch at top, 5 chain, miss a loop, 3 long in next, 5 chain, 3 long in next, 5 chain, 3 long in last loop, repeat to the required length. 2nd row — 2 long under first 5 chain, 9 chain, double crochet into 3rd to form picot, 2 chain, 2 long under next, 5 chain, gi chain, picot, 2 chain, 2 long under same S chain, 9 chain, picot, 2 chain, 2 long under same 5 chain, 9 chain, picot, 2 chain,2;ongundernext5 chain,repeat. 3rd row — Repeat first row do%\Ti the other side of the braid. 4th row — i treble, 2 chain, miss 2, repeat. 5th row — 3 long drawn up at top into first stitch, 5 chain, double crochet into same stitch as the 3 long, 6 chain, miss 3 square holes, and repeat. 6th row -i double crochet in top of long trebles, 6 chain and repeat. 7th row— i treble, 2 chain, miss 2 stitches and repeat. Width of lace depends upon coarse or fine materials. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. i:ji8;l;irS;@i8e:liiiM^:^a;^!@il CROCHET LACE. No. 2 Antimacassar braid, Coate's crochet cotton 24. 1st row — Double crochet in fivst loop of braid, 13 chain, miss 2 loops of braid, 2 long treble into next loop, miss a loop, 2 long treble in last loop, now miss i loop on next leaf of braid, then work 2 long treble into 2nd and 3rd loops, taking both together as one loop, 2 long treble into next two loops, taking both at once as before, miss last loop and work 2 long treble in 1st loop of next leaf of braid, miss I loop, 2 long treble in next 6 chain, double crochet back into 7th of 13 chain, 6 chain, miss 2 loops, and double crochet into last loop of leaf, 3 chain, double crochet under cord of braid, 3 chain, and repeat for any length. 2nd rowi— I treble, 2 chain, miss 2 and repeat. 3rd row — All cross treble. 4th row — i treble, 2 chain, miss 2, repeat, for the edge, on other side of braid work double crochet into cord of braid, 5 chain, i treble, back into top of last double crochet, now double crochet i.nto first loop of the bottom leaf of braid, 5 chain, i treble into last double crochet, double crochet into next 2 loops both at once as one, 5 chain, i treble back into last double crochet, double crochet into next 2 loops as one, 5 chain, i treble back into last double crochet, i double crochet into last loop, 5 chain, i treble into double crochet, double crochet under cord of braid, 5 chain, I treble back into double crochet, double crochet into first loop of next leaf, 4 chain, miss I loop, now double crochet next, also taking same loop on next leaf as one to unite the scallops, 4 chain, i double into last loop of leaf, 5 chain, i treble back into double crochet and repeat to end. Lace Insertion to Match.. No. 2 Antimacassar braid, and Coate's crochet cotton 24. ist row — i treble in first loop of braid, i treble in next loop, 3 chain, I long treble into same loop as last stitch, 7 chain, 2 long treble into next loop, 2 more long treble in next loop, now miss 4 loops, and work 2 long treble in 3rd loop of next leaf of braid, 2 long treble in next loop (each of these long treble must be kept on the needle until all the 8 are done, and then drawn up together tightly) 3 chain ; now make i treble back into the 4th of the 7 chain, 3 chain, I long treble into next loop of braid, 3 chain, I treble into same loop, I treble into next loop, 3 chain, double crochet under the cord which divides the leaves of braid, 3 chain and repeat to any length required. 2nd row — i treble, 2 chain, miss 2 and repeat. 3rd row — All cross treble. 4th row — I treble, 2 chain, miss 2 and repeat to end. Now work in same manner down other side of the braid. Long treble means cotton twice round the needle. PEARL BRAID AND GORDON BRAID EDGING. Double crochet into a loop,* double crochet into the next loop but one, repeat from * four times ; that will be 5 holes, and 6 double crochet. Now make 2 chain, then a double crochet into the /wxt loop on the other side of the braid. (This of course necessitates the braid being turned over eveiy wave, but it comes veiy easily and simply.) Now repeat from the first * until you have finished the length of braid required. ist row of the heading — * miss 2 loops of a wave, i treble into the next loop, * 1 chain, i double crochet into the next loop, repeat from * 3 times, I chain, 1 treble into the next loop. You now li^ve I treble, 4 double crochet, I treble, with 1 chain between each. You missed 2 loops at the beginning of the wave, and you should have 2 loops left on the same wave. Now make 2 chain and repeat on the next wave from the ist * in the ist row of the heading. 2nd row of heading — * I treble into the hole between the ist treble and the double crochet in the previous row, * i chain, I treble into the next hole, repeat from * 3 times. There will be 5 treble in all. Now make 3 chain to reach to the next wave, and repeat from the 1st * in the 2nd row. For the outside edge — * double crochet into the ist loop of the outer edge, * 3 chain, i double crochet into the next loop but i, repeat from *. There should be 5 holes in the edge. You will most likely be a loop short, but coax the holes in, and when you have made 5 holes round i wave, go to the next wave and repeat from the 1st * in the row for the edge. You make no drain between the scollops. SIMPLE AND DURABLE EDGE, Suit- able FOR TOILET COVERS, &c. Materials : — A knot of wavy braid, cotton and needle to suit the size of the braid. Buy the soft braid ; it washes better and is easier to work ; and the materials need not be very fine, as a very fine edge would hardly be suitable for a thick toilet cover. Perhaps No. 20 would suit for the cotton. 1st row— I treble into a point of the braid, * 4 chain, I treble into the next point, repeat from * to the end of the knot of braid. Break off. 2nd row — 2 treble into the hole formed by the 4 chain in the previous row, * 3 chain, 2 treble into the next hole, repeat from ■* to the end of the row. Break off the cotton. 3rd row — 2 treble into the hole formed by the 3 chain in the previous row, * 3 chain, 2 treble into the next hole, repeat from * to the end and break off as before. 4th row — i treble into the Ist hole formed by the 3 chain in the previous row, * 8 chain, I treble into the next hole but I, repeat from * to the end. The edging is now finished. Sew it neatly on the wrong side to the toilet rover. It is intended to lie flat, but in sewing it on do not pull it at all tight, but let it lie easily, as everything of this description shrinks a little, as a rule, the first time it is washed. Of course you must make it a little full at the corners to make them lie flat. BASSINETTE OR COT COVER. Materials :— White Berlin double wool, and No. 6 or 7, or even 8 needles. You require a longish pair with knobs on the end. If you wish to be very smart you will also require some ribbon, for which you can measure when the knitting is done. Cast on 83 stitches, and knit in plain knitting back ami forth just like a garter, keeping your work even, and always slipping the ist stitch of every row. You make the pattern in the casting off, when the wor^ is as long as you wish the cover to be. As soon as you have the required length, cast off as follows : — Cast off 5 stitches in the usual way ; in casting off the 6th stitch, * draw out the loop of the 6th stitch very long indeed, till it is about an inch long. Now drop the 7th stitch, and let it run down the whole way to the bottom. Now cast off 5 stitches again, and repeat from *. By drawing out the loop of the 6th stitch, you make it long enough to reach over the space made by dropping the 7th. Proceed in this way right across. There will be 1 1 rows of dropped stitches, and 6 stitches plain at the end to correspond with the 6 you knitted before dropping the 1st stitch. Border in crochet : — I treble into a loop, * 2 chain, miss a space equal to 2 loops, I treble in the next loop, repeat from * making it full at the corners. 2nd round — I double crochet, into a hole made by the 2 chain between the treble, * 2 chain, and now work as many treble as seem necessary to make a nice flat scallop into the next hole, 2 chain, I double crochet into the next hole, repeat from *, making the corners full enough to be flat. In making the treble in the 1st round of the border it is a great improve- ment if you draw out each treble to about an inch in length, and run ribbon to fit the width, over and under the treble all round the border. For the ribbon : measure the length of your cover, allowing a little for taking up in running in and out of the lines of dropped stitches, and get as much white, blue, or pale pink satin ribbon as will run down all the lines of dropped stitches, and if you like, enough to go round in and out of the treble in the Ist row of the border. The ribbon needed is only narrow, and need not be of a very good quality, if expense is an object. If liked, you need only have ribbon round the border, finishing with a boAv at one corner. The covers can be lined or not, as taste dictates. D'OYLEY'S, WITH CROCHET BORDER, Suitable for Pie Dishes, or Other Purposes. The centres of these d'Oyleys are cut out either oval or round, to suit the purpose for which they are to be used. Of the 2 before us, I is oval, 13 inches long by lo across the width, and the other is a round one 7 inches in diameter. They are useful little things, and serve to place under a sardine tin, or a cake, or they cover the bottom of a small waiter that has gone a little shabby when it is required to carry a cup of milk or beef-tea., They are cut out in the finest diaper, and neatly hemmed round as a beginning, and an elegant lacey-looking border is crocheted round them. Materials: —Rather fine crochet- cotton and hook to match. Double crochet THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. dMAbUM^UJlUMWilhMHill^ into the hem. Take care that in doing this you do not get the needle into your finger, as the stiff work makes that very Hkely if you are not careful. The best plan is to pierce the hole in the hem with a stiletto, and then the hook can be put in very easily ; or a small piece of wavy braid is sometimes sewn round by way of a foundation to work on. Make the holes with the stiletto just between an eighth and a quarter of an inch apart. 1st row — this is somewhat tedious, owing to the difficulty about the holes, but pray be careful of your fingers, — double crochet into a hole ; * 5 chain, double crochet into the next hole, repeat from *. 2nd round — double crochet into the hole made by the 5 chain in the last round, * 5 chain, double crochet into the next hole, repeat from *. 3rd and 4th rounds — the same as 2nd. 5th round — make a long treble into a hole formed by the 5 chain. To make a long treble, wind the cotton twice round your hook. Put the hook into the hole and draw the cotton through. There are now 4 loops on your needle. Draw the cotton first through 2 loops, then draw through 2 again, and lastly through the remaining 2 on the needle. When you have made the long treble, make 7 chain, I long treble into the next hole. (By hole we mean the loop formed by the 7 chain, instead of working into any one par- ticular chain.) * 7 chain, I long treble into the next hole, and repeat from * all round. 6th round — double crochet into a hole, * 7 chain, l double crochet into the next hole, and repeat from *. 7th and 8th rounds— the same as the 6th. 9th round — exactly the same as the 5th round. loth round — I double crochet into a hole, * 7 chain, I double crochet into a hole, repeat from * to the end of the round. Ilth round — I double crochet into a hole, 5 chain, I double crochet into the next hole, * 14 chain, I double crochet into the next hole, 5 chain, I double crochet into the next hole, repeat from *. If it does not seem likely to come quite right at the end, you must coax it a little ; that is, put the double crochet a little nearer or a little farther apart. 12 th round — I double crochet into the loop made by the 14 chain, * 14 chain, I double crochet into the hole made by the next 14 chain in the previous round, 5 chain, I double crochet into the same hole, repeat from *. You will at once see that you skip the small hole in the previous round. This round is the last. The border is about 2 inches wide, and has an elegant look scarcely expected on first reading such simple in- structions. KNITTED QUILT, HANDSOME AND EASY TO MAKE. The design detailed below was taken from a wedding present, and when finished, the quilt looked extremely well, besides being a most durable article. Materials : — No. 8 knitting cotton (Strutt's yellow tie is best), and No. 13 needles. Buy them as long as you can and put a knob of wax at the end. For the wide stripe — cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by 9, and then add 12 more stitches to be worked plain at each side of the stripe. For a stripe 10 inches wide, which is as large as is com- fortable to hold in the hand when working, cast on 93 stitches. This will give you 9 patterns in width, and 6 plain stitches at each end. Knit 6 plain rows. 7th row — knit 6 plain stitches, * take 2 together, knit 2, cotton fon-ard, knit I, cotton forward, knit 2, tak^ 2 toorether. Repeat from * to the end excepting the last 6 stitches, knit those 6 plain to match the beginning of the row. 8th row — purl. Repeat these 2 rows until you can count 6 holes in the length of your work. Now knit 6 rows plain, or until you can count 3 ribs of plain knitting on the right side. Begin again with the 7th row and repeat from that row until your stripe is long enough. Be sure to begin the 7th row on the right side of the pattern, and do not at any time forget the 6 plain stitches at the beginning and end of every row. Twist for the Alternate Strtpe. This twist is always a fa\'ourite, and is very easy to do. You will require a third needle. Cast on 24 stitches, istrow — plain. 2nd row — knit 6, purl 12, knit 6. 3rd row — plain. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until 14 rows are done. 15th row — (this should be a plain row). Knit 6. Now take the third needle, and slip the next 6 stitches on to it without knitting them. Now knit the next 6 to those, and then knit the 6 you slipped on to the third needle. Knit the last 6 as usual. This makes the twist. In order to knit this row comfortably, it is as well to do the 14th row a little loosely, particularly in the purl part. Commence again from the 2nd row and repeat all again. If you wish to get on faster you can use rather coarser needles and cotton — say, 11 or 12 needles, and No. 6 cotton. HANDSOME WOOL ANTIMACASSAR IN CROCHET. Materials required: — double Berlin wool in 6 shades of faded green and 4 shades of crimson. Medium size bone crochet hook. Quantity of wool regulated by size of antima- cassar. To commence with centre strip of the lightest shade of crimson. Make a chain of4,join,andinto this work 11 long treble, slip stitch together, and work round this raised circle 13 shells made like the ordma.ry poi/it de neige^ as described in No. i, and on page 19, Crochet hood, only that you draw through 5 loops instead of 6. You have 1 1 chain to work on. Proceed thus : 1st shell — pull the wool through twice in every chain stitch till you have 5 loops on your needle, then draw through all 5 at once and make 1 chain. 2nd shell — put hook in centre hole of last shell, draw wool through, then through back of last strand, then through chain in which last strand was put. then through next, close by I chain. All the shells are like this. Finish row by slip- stitching 1st and last shells together. Make 12 of these stars in the light crimson, and join together with hook, catching i shell of each star together. 2nd row, in 2nd shade of crimson — begin at 7th shell from join, counting from left of work as it lies before you, and work 7 shells into the first 5; you will have I shell left between this and the join ; leave i shell on next round, and work 7 shells on next 5 ; continue this to end of row. 3rd row- make 1 1 more circles of 1 1 long treble as before of the same shade as 2nd row, but do not work the 13 shells round them: fasten on to centre as well as you can, letting each circle c.om& brlwcen the circles of centre strip, not level with them. 4th row, and 3rd shade— do 7 shells 3 parts round each circle, with a double crochet between each shell. 5th row, darkest shade — 8 shells to each circle, and no double crochet. 6th row — 12 circles without shells, in lightest shade of green ; join on as well as you can between circles of previous row and level with cenfre ones ; have 5 shells between each. 7th row, same shade — 7 shells to each circle, and i double in centre of the five red stitches between each circle. 8th row, 2nd shade of green — 8 shells to each circle, and no double crochet. 9th row — 11 circles of 2nd shade joined as directed for 3rd row. loth row, of 3rd shade — same as 4th and 7th. nth row, * 4th shade — same as 5th and 8th. 12th row, 4th shade — same as 6th. 13th row, 5th shade — same as 7th. 14th row, darkest shade — same as Sth. The other side should be done the same. The rows given are the width of an ordinary antimacassar, but by repeating from the 2nd row, any width desired can be made. The pattern would form a lovely couvre pied, berceaunette cover, or quilt. For fringe, make 14 circles of lightest green, {viz: 4 chain, join, into which work 1 1 long treble) separately, and the same number of 3rd and darkest shades. Make tassels as follows : Take about 3 inches of double wool, thread i light circle at bottom, medium shade in centre, darkest at top. Fasten with needle and crochet or sew on. These will make 14 tassels, which place at each side. Make seven red for centre in the same manner, using lightest, second and darkest shades of red. Make an equal quan- tity of green and r6d for other end. STOCKING For Girl of 7 to 10 Years of Age. This is an original way of forming the knee of a stocking, to pre^'ent the excessive strain which this part has to bear; and the wTiter has proved its value by many years' wear on both boys and girls. Materials : — 4 to 5 skeins 4 ply merino, No. 16 needles. Cast on 99 stitches, and work 2 plain and I turned until it is about 4 inches long. Turn * and work backwards (working 2 turned and i plain to preseri'e the same rib on right side), until there are only 7 ribs from place of turning. Turn and work on right side, until within 3 stitches of pre%'ious turning. Turn and repeat from * until there are only 7 ribs between the turnings at the top of the stocking, when, resume knitting right round, and finish the stocking from pattern to fit intended wearer. Now Rkady. Prick 2d., or post free sjd. THE DKESSlffAKEIl'S A3ST> MIIiLINEE'3 FRENCH DICTIONARY. GIVING THE EXPLANATION AND PRONUNCIA- TION OF ALL THE FRENCH TERMS. Also the Widths of Various Materials, Sic All Newsagents, or post free s^d. 1 Mrs, LsACH, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.C THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. WOOL DRESS IN POINT DE NEIGE FOR A CHILD OF i8 MONTHS. Point de neige is fully described in No. i, and perfection in working it should be attained before commencing the dress. Materials: — 5J ozs. white eider wool, 2 ozs. pink. Fine bone crochet hook. Crochet 233 chain, on that work 114 shells by the method already described, work 6 rows with the white wool, then 3 rows pink, 5 more rows of white, 2 more pink, and 10 rows of white to finish. The band which draws the dress in at the waist is worked as follows : Double cro- chet into each stitch along the top (taking the back part of the stitch.) Work 8 rows of double crochet, missing a stitch at intervals to make the narrowings, this must be done gradually along each row. For the holes in which the waist ribbon runs, make a long treble, 2 chain, miss 2 stitches, a long treble into the third, continue to the end of band ; there should be 48 holes when finished. To form the bodice work 7 rows in the point neige stitch along the top of the holes, when those are finished divide the stitches, leavihg 25 for the front of body, 7 for each armhole, and 16 for each back piece, work the fronts and backs straight up for 4 rows, leaving the 7 stitches for the armhole. To form the shoul- der pieces crochet 14 chain and join it into the top of the third star of the front and back pieces, on this work 6 stars (3 rows) to form armholes. Now work 22 stars right round for the sleeve, making the stitches as well as you can in the sides of the other stars, there should be 4 rows for the sleeve. Now fasten off all the ends and sew the skirt up neatly, leaving 24 inches for the slit ; work double crochet from the top of the bodice right round the slit to make it secure. The bottom of the skirt is then finished with an edge worked thus — 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into the same hole, double crochet into the middle of next hole. 2nd row — 6 treble into hole, double crochet into double crochet of preceding row. Repeat for the neck and sleeves, work I single crochet, 2 chain into the middle of every star, then finish with the same edge given for the bottom of skirt. Ribbon is run in the waist, neck, and sleeves, which is tied in a bow on the shoulders. 3^ yards of ribbon i inch wide is required. A very serviceable dress may be made in the same way with cardinal or Navy blue wool ; eider or Andalusian is suitable. CAPE, HAT, AND MUFF, In Loop Knitting. For a Child 4 Years of Age. Materials : — 11 ounces of Berlin wool, any shade preferred, 2 yards of sarcenet, 1 1 yards of ribbon to match, 2 long fine steel pins. The cape is done in four parts, the back and sleeves in one part, the two front pieces, and the collar. Cast on 149 stitches for the back and sleeves, and knit the first 2 rows plain. The 3rd row is done in loop knitting by putting the wool over the needle and round the forefinger of the left-hand 3 times, and then knitting the stitch. Knit the next stitch plain. Continue in this manner to do I stitch loop knitting, the next stitch plain, with 3 plain rows between each row of loop knitting. When 17 rows of loop knitting are done, the stitches are divided into 3 parts, 49 stitches for each sleeve, and 5 1 for the back. Knit the first 40 for the sleeve in the usual way for about 2 rows loop knitting, and then decrease at the beginning and end of every row, as follows : To decrease at the beginning of the row, slip the first stitch, knit the second, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one. To decrease at the end of the row when there are only 2 stitches left on the left-hand needle, pass the last i over the other (this will give the sleeve a rounded appearance at the top) ; when there are only 12 stitches left, cast off. Knit the next 51 stitches, and then work the other sleeve in the same way as the last one was done. For the Back of C.^pe, begin with the 5 1 stitches left as usual for 4 rows of loop knitting, then knit the first 1 5 stitches, then cast off 21 stitches. There will be 1 5 at each side remaining, and they are cast off in the following way : Knit off the last 1 5 stitches, and when beginning the next row cast off 2 stitches, and when you come to the place where the last 2 stitches were cast off, cast off 2 more. Continue in this way until they are all off, then do the other 15 stitches in the same way, to corres- pond with the other shoulder. For the Front, cast on 43 stitches, and knit 21 rows loop knitting, then cast off 2 stitches at the beginnmg of every alternate row, until 1 5 are left on the needle, begin casting them off in the same way, only at the other end of the needle. Do the other front in the same way, only you will have to cast off at the other end of the needle to make the two fronts correspond. For the Collar, cast on 86 stitches, and after the ist row of loop knitting is done, decrease at the begin- ning of every row. When 3 rows loop knitting are done, cast off. Sew all the parts together with wool. For the Hat, cast on 50 stitches and work in the usual way. Increase at the beginning of every row until 100 stitches are on the needle, knit about 4 rows, and then decrease at the beginning of every row until there are only 50 stitches left then cast off. For the Hat Band, cast on 96 stitches, and work 3 rows of loop knitting and cast off. The crown is sewn on a shape, and the band sewn round ; a tuft goes at top which is made like those on the Tarn o' Shanter. Line the hat neatly with the sarcenet, also the cape. Add a bow to neck of cape, and bow and buckle to hat. For the Muff, cast on 46 stitches, and knit as usual for about 12 inches, then cast off, sew the 2 ends together. Line with silk and wadding. Crochet a chain with double wool to suspend from the neck, and finish with tassels, or bows of ribbon. CRADLE QUILT IN CROCHET. Materials: — A bone crochet-hook. No. 3, 2j lbs. of Strutt's fourfold knitting-cotton. The quilt is formed of 6 squares, each square commenced in the centre, ist square — make a chain of 5, form into a loop, then work 4 chain, 3 short stitches; repeat this 4 times, then you have it square; take the back part of the stitch all through. 2nd row — * 4 chain, 5 short stitches ; repeat from * all round. 3rd row — * 4 chain, 7 short stitches *. 4th row — * 4 chain, 5 short stitches ; then make a knob ; this is done by taking the top part of the stitch in the last row under the one you have just worked, and working into it 4 trebles, then draw your hook out and take it through the last short stitch ; catch your stitch on it and draw it through; then 4 short stitches, and repeat from * all round. 5th row — * 4 chain, n short stitches, taking a stitch through all the knobs to fasten them down *. 6th row — * 4 chain, 5 short stitches; then make a knob like the last *. 7th row — 4 chain at each comer and short stitch on every side. 8th row — * 4 chain, 5 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches *. 9th row — 4 chain and short stitch all round. loth row — * 4 chain, 5 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches *. I ith row — 4 chain and short stitch all round. 1 2th row — * 4 chain and 5 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches. 13th row — 4 chain and short stitch all round. 14th row — 4 chain, 9 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 8 short stitches. 1 5th row — 4 chain and short stitch all round. i6th row— 4 chain, 13 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 12 short stitches. 17th row — 4 chain and short stitch all round. 1 8th row — 4 chain, 17 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, 16 short stitches. 19th row — 4 chain and short stitch all round. 20th row — 4 chain, 2 1 short stitches, a knob, 20 short stitches. 21st row — 4 chain and short stitch all round. 22nd row — * 4 chain, I treble in the first stitch, I chain, i treble in every other stitch ; repeat from * all round. 23rd and 24th rows — 4 chain and short stifch all round. 25th row — 4 chain, 11 shore stitches, make a knob, * 4 short stitches, another knob, and repeat from * until you have 9 knobs, then work 10 sh^rt stitches. 26th row— 4 chain and short st-tch ali' round. 12 The First Number of the FANCY WOEK-BASKET coutainsd full and explicit instructioDB, with Diagrama, for working every Stitch in Knitting, Crochet and Crewel Work, also directions for making Child's Pelisse, ladies' Petticoats, &e. 8Jd., post fr<«. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 27th row — * 4 chain, 11 short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob, until you have 10 knobs, then work 10 short stitches ; repeat from *. 28th row — 4 chain and short stitch all round. 29th row — *4 chain, II short stitches, a knob, 4 short stitches, a knob ; repeat from * until you have II knobs, then work 10 short stitches. 30th row— 4 chain and short stitch all round. 31st row — 4 chain, I treble, I chain, and a treble in eveiy othei stitch repeat all round. This finishes the squaie The squares must be joined together on the wrong side with short stitches Border for the Quii.t. 1st row — plain treble all round the quilt so that it will frill a little. 2nd row— 3 ch.ain, miss 2 stitches, and work 3 treble on the next 3 stitches, 3 chain, and 7 short stitches. 3rd row— 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 5 short stitches, missing I of the 7 at each side. 4th row — 3 chain, 3 treble in the last chain and the 1st 2 treble of the last row, 3 chain, miss I stitch and work 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 short stitches. 5th row — 3 chain, 3 treble over the 3 in the last row, 3 chain, i treble in the 1st loop, 3 chain, i treble in the same loop, 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, I short stitch. 5th row — 3 chain, * 3 treble over the 3 in the last row, 5 chain, and in the ist chain i short stitch, then i treble in the ist loop of the last row, 5 chain, I short stitch in the the 1st of the 5 chain, i treble in the next loop, 5 chain, I short stitch in the ist of the 5 chain, another treble in the same loop, 5 chain go in the ist with I short stitch, 1 treble in the 3rd loop, 5 chain go in the ist with a short stitch and 3 treble over the 3 in the last row ; you will then have 5 loops in each pattern ; miss the short stitch and repeat from *. LADY'S SUMMER PETTICOAT IN KNITTING. An extremely pretty and light petticoat for summer wear is made from this pattern in coral and white wool. Worked in yarn or petticoat fingering it would be rendered warmer and heavier. About 13 ozs. of wool would be required, 9 ozs. white, and 4 ozs. coral. Medium sized bone needles. It is better to do the petticoat in two widths, and join neatly, as sufficient loops for the whole width on the needles would be troublesome. The number of loops must be divisible by 12, say 180 on first width, 156 on second. If required pretty wide 204. Commence with coral wool, ist row — plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain ; join on the white wool, and leave on the coloured ball ; knit with white wool. 1st row — take 2 together, knit 4 * for- ward with the wool, knit i forward, knit 4, take 2 together twice, knit 4, and repeat from * to the end of the row ; row will finish with knit 4, take 2 together. 2nd row — purl. Repeat 13 these 2 rows alternately for about 12 rows, ending with the purl. Bring up coloured wool, and knit ist plain, 2nd plain, 3rd purl, 4th plain ; while wool same as before. Repeat these 2 stripes to length required. When half up petticoat you can narrow by taking 3 together in one white row instead of 2. You will then have 3 plain instead of 4. In the last white row begin and knit 2 purl and 2 plain, narrowing about every 12. It is better to set into a band after the plain and purl. A band can be crocheted on, and looks well of the two wools. Treble backwards and forwards 2 rows of each. Narrow to shape the band, but keep the narrowings at the back mostly. Sew on two linen buttons, and push the wool aside and sew round for buttonhole ; crochet a row of double round placket hole. KNITTED SHAWL. Leaf Pattern, with Cockle Shell Border. Wool required : — 10 oz. of cardinal cocoon wool, 4 for the centre, and 6 for border, and bone knitting needles, size No. 8. Small leaves pattern for centre. Cast on 12 stitches for each pattern, and 4 extra for edge stitches, 2 at the beginning and 2 at the end. ist row — knit 2, * knit I, wool forward, knit 3, narrow (that is, knit 2 together), knit i, narrow, knit 3, wool forward, repeat from *, knit 2. 2nd row — knit 2, * purl l, wool over, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl i, purl 2 together, purl 2, wool over, purl 2, repeat from *, knit 2. 3rd row — knit 2, * knit 3, wool forward, knit i, narrow, knit I, narrow, knit l, wool forward, knit 2, repeat from *, knit 2. 4th row — knit 2, * purl 3, wool over, purl 2 together, purl i, purl 2 together, wool over, purl 4, repeat from *, knit 2. 5th row — knit 2, * knit 5, wool forward, slip i. narrow, and take the slipped stitch over wool forward, knit 4, repeat from*, knit 2. 5th row — knit 2, * purl, repeat from*, knit 2. 7th row — knit 2, * knit i, narrow, knit 3, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 3, narrow, repeat from *, knit 2. 8th row — knit 2, * purl 2 together, purl 2, wool over, purl 3, wool o\'er, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl i, repeat from *, knit 2. 9th row — knit 2, * knit I, narrow, knit l, wool forward, knit 5, wool forward, knit i, narrow, repeat from *, knit 2. loth row — knit 2, * purl 2 together, wool over, purl 7, wool over, purl 2 together, purl I, repeat from *, knit 2. nth row — knit 2, * narrow, wool for- ward, knit 9, wool forward f, slip i, narrow, pass the slipstitch over, repeat from * to end of row, but in the last patternstopatfandknit 2 together, slip i. 12th row — knit 2, * purl, repeat from *, knit 2, and repeat. The stitches marked off by * are edge stitches, and only to bo knitted at the beginning and end of every row. For Border. Cockle-shell Patiern. Cast on 30 stitches, 16 for lace, and 14 for insertion. 1st row — wool forward, narrow, knit r, wool forward, knit 10, wool forward, narrow, knit I, * forward, narrow, lepeat from * five times more, knit 2. 2nd row — knit 14, * knit 2, wool forward, narrow, knit 12, purl I. 3rd row — forward, narrow, knit I, forward, narrow, forward, knit 9, forward, narrow, knit I, * knit 14. 4th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 13, purl I. 5th row — forward, narrow, knit I, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, knit 8, forward, narrow, knit i, * forward, narrow, repeat 5 times more from *, knit 2. 6th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 14, purl i. 7th row — forward, narrow, knit I, * forward, narrow, repeat from * twice more, forward, knit 7, forward, narrow, knit I, * knit 14. 8th row— knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 15, purl I. 9th row — forward, narrow, knit I, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 3 times more, forward, knit 6, forward, narrow, knit i, * forward, narrow repeat from * 5 times more, knit 2. loth row — knit 14,1* knit 2, forward, narrow, knit i5, purl I. nth row — forward, narrow, knit i, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 4 times more, forward, knit 5, forward, narrow, knit I,* knit 14. I2th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 17, purl i. 13th row — forward, narrow, knit 1, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 5 times more, forward, knit 4, forward, narrow, knit i, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 5 times more, knit 2. 14th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forw.ard, narrow, knit 18, purl I. 15th row — forward, narrow, knit I, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 6 times more, forward, knit 3, forward, narrow, knit I, * knit 14. i6th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 19, purl i. 17th row — forward, narrow, narrow, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 6 times more, knit 3, forward, narrow, knit I, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 5 times more, knit 2. 18th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 18, pearl i. 19th row — forward, narrow, narrow, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 5 times more, knit 4, forward, narrow, knit i, * knit 14. 20th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 17, pearl I. 21st row — forward, narrow, narrow, * forward, narrow, repeat from * four times more, knit 5 forward, narrow, knit i, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 5 times more, knit 2. 22nd row— knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 18, purl I. 23rd row — forward, narrow, narrow, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 3 times more, knit 6, forward, narrow, knit I, * knit 14. 24th row— knit 14, * knit 2, J THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. forward, narrow, knit 15, purl i, 25tli row — forward, narrow, narrow, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 2 more, knit 7, forward, narrow, Irnit I, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 5 times more, knit 2. 26th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 14, purl I. 27th row — forward, narrow, narrow, * forward, narrow, repeat from * I more, knit 8, forward, narrow, knit I, * knit 14. 28th row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 13, purl i. 39th row — forward, narrow, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 9, forward, narrow, knit i, * forward, narrow, repeat from * 5 times "more, knit 2. 3otli row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 12, purl i. 31st row — forward, narrow, narrow, knit 10, forward, narrow, knit I, * knit 14. 32nd row — knit 14, * knit 2, forward, narrow, knit 1 1, puii I. The corners : — ist row — knit as usual. 2nd row — back again as usual. 3rd row — only knit the lace, which is marked off by "^. 4th row — back again. 5th row — knit as usual, until within 2 of the end, leave those on the pin. 6th row — back again. 7th row ■ — only knit the lace. 8th row — back again. 9th row — knit as usual, until within 4 of the end, leave those on the pin. Continue doing this, and leaving two more stitches ever>' other down row, and knitting the lace in between, when, by leaving the two's you have knitted as far as the lace, go again to the end. Repeat till the corners are round enough. NIGHTDRESS CASE. Materials : — 2 ozs. Strutts' knitting-cotton, No. 8, 3 threads, J yard of red twill, and 2 yards of ribbon; use needles No. 15 (Walker's bell gauge). Cast on 120 stitches, ist row — knit 2 together, knit 3, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit i, bring for- ward, knit 2 together, bring forn-ard, knit 3, knit 2 together ; repeat. 2nd rov,' — purl. Every alternate row is purled. 3rd row — like 1st. 5th row — knit 2 together, knit 2, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 3, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 2, knit 2 together ; repeat. 7th row — knit 2 together, knit i, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 5, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 1, knit 2 together ; repeat. 9th row — knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 7, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 2 together ; repeat. Ilth row — knit i, * bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 4, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 2 together; repeat from *,and at the end of the row, instead of knitting 2 together, knit i plain. 13th row — knit i, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 3, knit 2 to- gether, knit 2 together, knit 3, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward ; repeat. 1 5th row — like 13th. 17th row — knit 2, * bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2, bring forward, knit 2 together, brijig forward, knit 3 ; repeat from *, and end the row with 2 plain instead of 3. 19th row — knit 3, * bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit I, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit I, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 5, end the row with 3 plain instead of 5. 21st row — knit 4, * bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 7, end with 4 plain instead of 7. 23rd row — knit 2 together, knit 3, bring forward, knit 2 together, bring iorward, knit 2 together, bring forward knit 2 together, bring forward, knit 4 ; repeat ; end the row with 3 plain, and knit 2 together instead of 4 plain. 24th row ■i— purl. Repeat these 24 rows 6 times. Border for Above. Cast on 10 stitches. Ist row — slip I, knit 2, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, twice knit 2 together, thread forward, twice knit 2 together, knit I. 2nd row — slip, I, knit 2, purl I (this is the second made stitch), knit 2, purl r, knit i, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I. 3rd row — slip I, knit 2, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 7. 4th row — slip I, knit 7, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I. 5th row — • slip I, knit 2, thread forward, knit 2 to- gether, knit 2, thread forward, twice knit 2 together, thread forward, twice knit 2 together, knit I. 6th row — slip I, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl I, knit 3, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I. 7th row — slip I, knit 2, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 9. 8th row— slip I, knit 9, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I. 9th row — slip I, knit 2, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, thread forward, twice knit 2 together, thread forward, twice knit 2 together, knit I. loth row— slip I, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, pinl I, knit 5, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I. nth row — slip I, knit 2, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit II. 12th row — • cast off 6, knit 5, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I. Line with the sateen and run a ribbon through top. HANDSOME SHOULDER CAPE. Ordinary Ladies' Size. — Very Hand- some Simple Crochet. Materials: — 10 yards of narrow ^-inch satin ribbon, and 2 full skeins of fine Saxony wool, or from 2 to 3 ozs. of Shetland, or from 3 to 4 ozs. of Andalusian, probably. So much depends on the quality of the wool and the worker. Fine Lady Betty wool would be very nice. These capes are beautiful to wear in the early morning or after sundown. Use No. II or 12 crochet needle unless you are, a very tight worker, and then you can use a coarser size. To commence — make a chain long enough to go loosely round the neck, about no will be needed, ist row — turn, I treble into the 4th chain from the needle, i treble in the next *, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, I treble into each one of the next three loops. Repeat from * till you have 22 sets of treble, of 3 treble to each set, and each treble having a loop of its own, and 21 holes between the 22 sets of treble. You see that you end and begin the row with a set. This row is absolutely simple, but as the whole cape is calculated from the Ist row, it is necessary to have it right. 2nd row — turn, work 3 treble over the ist 3 treble, always taking up both loops of each stitch as you work over it, * 2 chain, miss 2 loops, and work 3 treble over the next set of 3 treble. Repeat from * for the whole length of the row. 3rd row — like the 2nd. 4th row — increase, by working 2 treble into each of the end stitches of each set in the previous row. This wil give you 5 treble in each set with 2 chain as usual between each set of 5 treble. 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th rows — 5 treble over each set of 5 treble in the previous rows. 9th row — in- crease by working 2 treble into each of the end stitches as before. This gives you 7 treble to each set, and never forget the 2 chain between the sets. lothto 14th rows — work 7 treble over each 7 treble in the pre- A'ious rows, always do the 2 chain between. 15th row — increase to 9 stitches in each set. 1 6th to 1 8th rows — work 9 treble over the 9 treble in the previous rows. 19th row — in- crease as usual to 11 treble in each set. 20th to 26th rows — 1 1 treble over each set of II treble in the previous rows. Border:— 4 treble, i chain, 4 treble, all into the 4th loop of the previous row, taking up both the top loops of the stitch in which you are working, '•'■ i chain, make 4 treble, 1 chain, 4 treble, into the top of the 6th treble from the one you put the last picot into. Repeat from * all round the bottom of the cape. Try to bring the last picot about the same distance from , the end of the row as you placed the 1st. 2nd row — i chain to turn, 4 treble, i chain, 4 treble, all into the hole formed by the chain in the middle of the 1st picot in the previous row, * i chain, 4 treble, I chain, 4 treble, all into the middle of the next picot. Repeat from * to end of row. 3rd to 6th rows— like the 2nd. 7th row — g treble into the middle of the 1st picot, I double crochet between the 1st picot and the 2nd, * 9 treble into the middle of the next picot, i double crochet between the picot you have just worked in and the next. Repeat from * all round the bottom of the cape, then carry the scallop up the front round the top of the neck and down the other front, joining neatly to the beginning of the row. Keep the scallops flat all up the fronts, and not full at all. There will be I scallop to each set of 3 treble round the neck, when the border round is finished you mu.st make the neck collar in the following way: — fold 2 rows of the neck dov. '■., hold them towards you, and then f '.k, I chain, 4 treble, I chain, 4 treble, nito the middle of each set of 3 treble, just the same border as you worked round the cape. Work 3 rows exactly as you worked round the cape, and finish with the same scallop as that which you put round the cape. Take care that the last row of the neck border is worked on the right side of the work, even if you break off the wool. The 4 rows which you have worked round the neck make a pretty turn-down collar. Now take the ribbon and run the ejid in and out over one chain and under another from the neck to the beginning of the border. Run it in evenly and not too tightly, and leave ribbon enough to make a loop, not an end, about 2 inches deep. When you have measured I piece measure 20 more pieces by it. Run I piece down each set of holes, then fasten the ends neatly under the neck frill, and fasten the loop at the other firmly at both sides of the ribbon so that there is no pulling. The loops fall over the borders. The remainder of the ribbon is run once or twice, according to the quantity you have left, in the holes round the neck through the rows left between the stand-up scallop and the turn-down collar. Little children look very pretty in capes of the above description. The ribbon is prettier if it matches the wool, black, brown, olive- green, pale blue, light pink, coral, and deep THE FANCY AVORK-BASKET. crimson are all suitable ; but it is much wisest to buy ribbon and wool at the same time, that there may be no trouble in match- ing the colours. Old gold, or blue, or scarlet libbon could be run in a black cape by those «ho prefer a contrast. Below is a condensed table of the rows and stitches, and instruc- tions for enlarging, if required. 7V(7j/e.— Commence with 22 sets of 3 treble to each set, and 2 chain between the sets. Counting the first row you have : — 3 rows with 3 treble to each set S 1) 5 1! » 6 „ 7 5J !) 4 i> 9 11 1) 8 „ I I 11 Giving a total of 26 rows before beginning the border. For a stout lady begin with 23 sets and work: — 3 rows with 3 treble to each set 3 11 5 11 11 4 ,1 9 1. 11 5 » II 11 1. 11 * 3 n 11 Giving a total of 23 rows before beginning the border, which you can mak; longer than the directions, if needed. KNITTED HOOD FOR WOMEN. Materials required : — • Double Berlin double, 2 oz.; 2 needles, size No. 7. Knit in brioche stitch (make l, slip l, take 2 together) with two needles. Cast on 30 stitches. Knit 30 rov.s (counting forward and back as one), then pick up 30 stitches down the left side ; knit back and pick up 30 stitches down the other side. Knit 32 rows, forwards and backwards. Tie on another colour for the border, and, after knitting 14 rows, cast off and turn it back on the cap. Pick up all the stitches at the back of the cap for a curtain (about 78), and knit 12 rows. AH this is in brioche stitch. Now knit two rows plain and cast off. A scallop can be worked round the border and curtain, in crochet if desired, thus : — I double crochet, miss I, * 4 treble into the next stitch, miss i, I double crochet, miss i, repeat from *. Either knitted or ribbon strings should be sewn on, and a bow of ribbon at the back adds very much to the appearance. This hood can be knitted in fleecy or petticoat y arn, and cost much less. New Edition. Just Out. Price Twopence, HOW TO DANCE. By an ^I.C, giving tlie Steps and Figures of all tlie Now and Country Dances, with Dictionary of Fi-ench Terms used in Dancing, Illustrations of Ball-Room Dresses, Hairdressing, &c. Post free, Three Stamps. Pocket Edition, handsomely bound, sent free by i}ost In envelope for 7 stamps. K, Cartweioht, 8, Johnson's Court, London, E.G. 16 LADIES' CROCHET PETTICOAT. Materials required: — i lb. 2 oz. to I lb. 40Z. of Alloa wheeling yarn ; or any similar petti- coat yarn — scarlet looks best, and washes best. Bone crochet hook, No. 10 or 11. The petticoat is crocheted in two parts, and ia commenced round the waist or plain part at the top. Make a chain the length required for the band on waist. Work 5 rows in plain double crochet, taking up both edges of the stitches in the previous row throughout the work. In the4th row— 2double crochet, then 3 chain, miss 3 double crochet, then double cro- chet to the end of the row. In the 5th row — double crochet over the 3rd chain, work 3 double crochet. This forms the first button- hole. Work three more rows double crochet, then every 4th row increase i stitch in about every 10 to form the proper shape for the plain part; thus,* 10 double crochet, 2 in the next ; repeat. The nexi incretue row it will be 1 1 double crochet, 2 in the next, and so on. Have in all from 38 to 43 rows in band part, making 3 or 4 buttonholes at regular distances according to fancy ; only taking care that the last 4 or 5 rows are worked plain with no increasings. The rows on band are worked backwards ivithont breaking off the wool. Join the two sides to make it round, and work the lower part of petticoat ; it is stronger to join it over a few stitches onl)', see that your stitches are divisible by 8. ist row — * i double crochet on each of next 3 stitches, I treble on next ; I treble, I long, i treble in the following ; i treble in the next, i double crochet on each of the next 2 doui)le crochet ; repeat from * all round. 2nd row — * 5 double crochet ; in the long stitch work 3 double crochet ; 4 double crochet, repeat from *. 3rd row — miss 3 double crochet ; * 5 double crochet, 3 in the next, 4 double crochet, miss 2 double crochet ; repeat from *. Repeat this last row until the petticoat is the length required ; bind the two sides of slit at back with ribbon, and add the buttons on the waist-band If the scollops at bottom are preferred rounder, it can be done by doing the last i or 2 of petticoat thus : — missing only I double cro- chet, and putting 2 instead of 3 double crochet in middle stitch. Now Ready, Price id,^ New and Enlarged Edition of Mrs. Leach's Special Number of BOYS' SUITS, &c., Illustrating i6o various Suits for all Ages, with plain de- scriptions for cutting out and making up. Also all articles of Boys' Underclothing, Dressing Gowns, &c. Of all Newsagents, or post free, 2^' other row under the arm. For edge, double crochet into loop into the next 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble all round. For neck work the same as the sleeve for 5 rows, narrow- ing every time at each of the 4 corners, and finish with same edge. Run ribbon in top of neck and bottom of sleeves ; it requires 2 yards. Finish vest with i row of double crochet round the bottom done very slack. LADIES' BEADED CUFFS. Materials required ; — 2 needles. No. i8,_and \\ ozs. of Andalusian wool, i bunch of No. 7 beads. First cast on 56 stitches, knit i row. On commencing the 2nd row make I stitch, and slip up I bead quite close so as to prevent it slipping through, having previously threaded the beads on to tire wool, then 4 more beads following, miss 4 stitches, and then 4 more beads, and so on until you have the length of beads required. Note.— Make I stitch at the beginning of ever>' row until you have made 5, then take two together until you have taken the 5 in again, which will com.- plete I notch; in the centre of the notch put on 4 beads only. Always put the beads on going down, and take care to reverse the 4 beads every 4 rows, so as to THE FANCY WORK-B A.SKET. make the beads come in small squares — The squares of beads are 4 each way. After you have finished the beaded pattern, knit plain for the remainder of the cuff. THE CREEVE STOCKING. Seven Golden Rules by which to Knit a Stocking any Size, a Perfect Fit Ensured. 1st Rule. — Cast on as many stitches as will go round leg just above the knee, and knit one and a half as many rounds as there are stitches on the needle. 2nd Rule. — Divide total number of stitches Dy 9, and the answer gives the number of mes to narrow. Knit S rounds between the narrowings. 3rd Rule. — Knit the same number of ounds as there are stitches on needles after ^he calf narrowings. 4th Rule. — For heel, put half the stitches, and one over, on one needle, and knit the same number of rows as there are stitches, minding to have the seam stitch in middle. Narrow every alternate row 4 times t\yice on each side of seam stitch till half the stitches, exclusive of seam stitch, remain. Cast oft" heel as follows : — Knit to middle of needle, 1 ut tire seam stitch on a 3rd needle, place the two heel needles together, having the wrong side of heel out, * and then knit one stitch off each needle together with the 3rd needle, on which is the seam stitch, and draw the first or seam stitch over the 2nd titch ; repeat from * till all the stitches on the heel needles are cast oft". 5th Rule. — Pick up stitches along sides of heel, increasing one in every three stitches, then narrow one stitch every alternate round at end of the 1st knitted heel needle and oeginning of 2nd heel needle (the instep needle being between the heel needles) till there is the same number of stitches as there was before the heel was commenced. 6th Rule. — Knit as many rounds from heel lo toe-narrowings as there were stitches on needles aftet narrowings at calf. 16 7th Rule.— Narrow for toe till the 3rd of the stitches remain. Cast off. If more minute particulars are required we can recommend "The Creeve Knitting Card," by A. E. K., price 3d. Address, Box ID, Post Office, Ballymena, Ireland. This goes a little further into detail than the ab >ve, and by following out its rules a per- fectly shaped stocking for any size is ob- tained. By this method all the tiresome wading through and counting row after row is avoided, which plan often turns out a failure through the variations in the size of children of given ages, not to mention adults. LADIES' SILK STOCKINGS. OPENWORK PATTERN. Size of needles. No. 18. 8 balls of ice silk (4 thread), and l,V oz. of wool. Cast on 132 stitches and knit II inches, then decrease every eighth row twelve times, and continue knitting till about 22 inches are done from the beginning. Now commence the heel, making it about 2j inches long, and then proceed with the foot, which should measure gi inches from the beginning of the heel. For the diamond open- work pattern : 1st row — knit I, thread forward, slip i, knit I, pass slipped stitch over, knit i, knit 2 together, thread forward. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — knit 2, thread forward, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over, thread forward, knit l. 4th row — plain. 5th row — knit i, knit 2 together, thread for- ward, knit I, thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass slipped stitch over. 6th row — plain. 7th row — knit 2 together, f thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip i, knit 2 toge- ther, pass slipped stitch over. Repeat from t- (Last pattern — knit i, pass slipped stitch over.) 8th row — plain. Commence open work pattern at about 10 inches from the beginning in the middle of the row, increas- ing on each side until you have nine patterns, and continue till within 2 inches of the toe. Finish stocking in the ordinary way. CHILDREN'S COMFORTS. CROCHET OPENWORK PINAFORE For Child of 6 to 18 Months. An extremely elegant pinafore can be made from this model. Materials required : — One yard of the best linen diaper, 22 yards of No. 4 Gordon braid, or a finer make, if you prefer it, 2 balls of No. 24 crochet cotton, rather a fine steel hook. The front of this pinafore and edging for bottom of backs are worked in one piece. To com- mence with edging for right back. Take your braid, and join on a double crochet into a picot, not too near the end, say perhaps 12 picots down, for heading purposes, and on account of fraying out, * 9 chain, miss 2 picots, I double into next picot, and repeat from * 4 times more ; you have 5 holes. * 6 chain, i double into next picot, repeat from * 1 1 times more ; you will have 1 2 holes. Now make 9 chain, miss 2 picots, i double into next, and repeat 3 times, 9 chain, miss 2 picots, I treble into next, you will have another 5 holes ; 1 1 more treble into the next 1 1 picots ; 4 chain, I single into 5th chain of the group of 9 nearest you, * 4 chain, miss 2 picots, i double into next, 4 chain, I single into 5th stitch of second group of 9, and repeat from * till you have caught up all your 5 groups of 9 chain. You will have formed i scallop. When you have caught up the last group of 9 make 4 chain, i double into 3rd picot from last double, 6 chain, i double into next, and repeat 11 times as before, 9 chain, miss 2 picots, i double into next, 5 times as before, putting a treble into last picot instead of a double, 1 1 more treble into 1 1 successive picots, 4 chain, catch up centre of 9 chain, 4 chain, miss 2 picots, i double into next till you have caught up your five groups, 6 chain, i double 12 times as before. Go on making these scallops in the same way till you have made eight, counting each group of 12 chain, I double as a scallop, because your edging is not yet perfect till the other side of chain is worked. We have particularised the number of scallops, but the safest plan is to cut your pinafore out first, and machine or hem it neatly at neck and bottom, also down backs and round the armholes and down fronts where the work meets it. Then measure your edging, allowing a little for shrinking. The entire front is not of work. The diaper should come about 2 inches from under arm. The safest way is to cut from a pattern, and when your openwork fi'ont is complete, cut the material away. When you have done enough to go across one half of the back, go on working 9 chain, miss 2 picots, i double in next 44 times, or you can adopt the same plan of mea- suring the depth from a pattern and working up the length of braid. By this means you will be able to adapt the pina- fore for any age or size child. When you come to the last 9 chain, work I treble into picot instead of a double. Then work II more treble into i picot each, * 4 chain, I single into 5th chain of group of 9 nearest you, 4 chain, miss 2 picots, I double into next, and repeat from * till you have caught up all your 44 groups of 9 chain. Then do 6 chain, i double into 12 consecutive picots as before, and work another set of 9 chain 44 times up the braid. Make your 12 treble as before, and catch up your groups with the 4 chain, till you reach the 21st. Do not catch this, but work 9 chain, miss 2 picots. Then go on working the remainder of row, catching up eveiy group. This makes a hole at waist to run sash through, and must be repeated in every other row. About 21 rows made like this are sufficient for the front, but this also you can regulate by you" pattern. By rows we mean the completed pavtern, not rows of braid. When you have done enough THE FANCY WOKK-BASKET. for the front, work 6 chain, i double 12 times ; 9 chain, miss 2 picots, i double into next 5 times (always remembering to make a treble instead of a double the last time), I r more treble, 4 chain, i single to catch up the 9 chain, 4 chain, miss 2 picots, I double into next till you have caught up all your . 5 groups. Repeat this till you have a corre- sponding number of scallops for left back to those on the right. Cut off your braid, leaving a good piece at end, as you did at the begin- ning. Now fasten on as you did at first, and work the other side of the braid exactly as you did the first side. You will thus have a group of 6 chain outside the 12 treble in every scallop. Now join on with a double crochet in the first scallop of left-hand back, S picots from your first group of 9 chains, * 12 chain, i double into 5th hole of first group of edging made by 12 chain, 3 chain, I double into ne.xt 3 successively, and repeat from * right along the heading of left back. 2nd row— 3 chain to form a treble into 1st chain of previous row, 3 chain, miss 3 of previous row, i treble into 4th, and repeat right along row. 3rd row— 3 chain, i treble into every hole of previous row. Fasten off securely. Work this headmg on right back. Now make a narrow edging to go round neck at back and down sides of front to hide joins. I double into picot of braid, 6 chain, miss 3 picots, i double in next, 6 chain, i double into every picot 9 times, 6 chain, miss 3 picots, 6 chain, miss 2 picots, 3 chain, catch the 3rd of your last 6, 3 chain, miss 2, i double into next 3 chain, catch the middle of your last group of 6, 3 chain, miss 2 picots, double in next, 3 chain, catch up middle of ist hole formed by 6 chain, 3 chain, i double into next picot, 6 chain, i double, and repeat till you have your 9 edges. Do these edgings till you have enough to go round one-half of back, and down one front. Then work the other side as follows : — i double into picot, 6 chain, miss 2 picots, i treble into next, 8 more treble into consecutive picots, 3 chain, catch middle of opposite group, 3 chain, miss 2 picots, I double into next, 6 chain, i double into 9 consecutive picots, and repeat from * till other side of braid is filled in. The side of scallop that has the 9 treble inside is for edge. The other side is sewn to body of pinafore. Work on this latter for heading, i double in braid, 10 chain, * i double in 4th hole of edging, 3 chain, i double in next 2, 13 chain, and repeat from * Make a corre- spond ng piece of edging for the other side, and then connect them to front of pinafore as follows :— I double into 1st chain of heading, 4 chain, i single into centre chain of 1st groiip of 9 on outside row of front, 4 chain, miss 3 chain of previous row, and repeat till your edging is joined to the front. Do the other side the same. Your pinafore IS now ready to be sewn on to the diaper down each front, across bottom, and at neck. Do this very neatly, and fasten down all untidy ends. Now make 2 pieces like edging used for bottom for armholes. In the model, the armhole reached to the waist. Sew these in.. Run a sash ribbon through holes at waist. Have 2 narrower ribbons, which run through back and front, and bring out at the shoulders to tie in bows. The work may have been tedious, but the result cannot fail to repay you for the time and trouble. _ iSvery Young Lady snoiild send for a copy of THE NOVEL READER, Or order it of her Newsagent. It contains a complete liigU-class story every week:, lid. post-free from 8 Jolin- fion'3 Court, Fleet Street, Loudon, E.C 17 DRESS IN CROCHET. Adaptable for Boy or Girl. The following description applies to a dress suitable for a child just having learned to walk, up to five or six years, or even older, just according to the size of the child. Materials :— Double and single Berlin wool. A crochet hook for shell stitch, a fine one for tricoter, and a fine short onefor double crochet. A pair of No. 12 knitting needles. A skein of filoselle, and needle to work the filoselle. Ribbon for bows. This seems a rather for- midable list, but you probably have most of the tools, and if you go to a wholesale house for the wool, and to a ribbon-basket or large shop for the ribbon, you will not find it very expensive, considering the handsome dress you will have. To commence ; — Take the measurement of your child, and get a good paper pattern cut of a skirt and jacket with little waistcoat like the sketch. The skirt is sewn on to a calico bodice, the long-waisted loose bodices which children wear, the waist- coat is arranged down the front, and the little jacket arranged over. You can either have the bodice button at the back and put on the jacket afterwards, loose from the dress, or make the whole thing together, fastening the jacket on to the bodice, making it up at the same time as the bodice, and fastening it at the side of the waistcoat under the jacket. Three or four strips of ribbon go across the waistcoat; the ends are fastened either to the jacket if loose, or the edge of the waistcoat, under the edge of the jacket ; the ribbon should be about one and a half inches wide, and can be tied in the middle or at the side of the waistcoat; a wider piece is to cover the join of the skirt and waistcoat, or if desired a sash can be arranged round and a bow at the side. You can get pretty Surah sashes for IS. il^d. in nearly all colors, and better quality 3s. 3d. Now for the arrangement of the dress. The waistcoat should be from three to six inches wide; it is a straight piece the length required, but if you like to shape it a little to the front of the neck, and make it in a point at the lower end, it will perhaps be more to your taste. The skirt is a simple skirt in shell stitch worked to a pattern, and the jacket is worked in ribbed crochet (some- times called Russian crochet), shaped a little on the hips and in the back and with straight fronts, which just reach over the edge of the waistcoat. Of the two methods described. We think the best plan is to make a bodice fastening at the back, put the jacket on after- wards and fasten it across the waistcoat by 3 or 4 ties of ribbon, and have a row of buttons down each side of the waistcoat, and button the jacket on to the waistcoat. In making the waistcoat, and indeed all the dress, do it prc'ty firmly, so that it will keen m place and shape. The cuffs and collai are straight pieces of loop knitting on the No. 12 needles in the same wool as Vhe waistcoat. The collar can be fastened with a small bow of ribbon, and one to match on each cuff If you do not know how to do loop knitting, it is fully desciibcd in No. I of the Fancy Work-Baskkt; and if you think you would prefer it, you can make cuffs and a straight tuin-down collar of tricoter to match the waistcoat. You should work the waistcoat in single Bcrhn or fingering with a fine tricoter hook, cuffs and collar the same. With the filoselle you work stars at inter\-als down the tricoter very regularly. This, if well done, is a great improvement. We will make a suggestion as to colour and then you can work out as you like, I-'or the skirt, 3 or 4 shades of rich brown in double Berlin or thick petticoat yarn ; for the jacket, the medium shade of brown with a border of the othershades, worked inafine scallop — that is you work tlfe jacket in the lightest or lightest but one shade, and use the whole of the shades, if you have them, for the border, or if you do not wish to buy so many different shades in the single Berlin, use the middle shade for the jacket and the darkest for the border. Finely worked single Berlin in ribbed crochet will look best, but if you like you can use double Berlin and shell stitch for the jacket. The colour of the waistcoa can be pale blue, or if you like to have a golden shade of single Berlin to harmonise with the body of the dress. If liked, you coiild have a silk waistcoat made of either satin or one of the silk scarves named above We think you will now be able to work and think the dress out, and have a very pretty result. INVALID, BATH, or NURSERY SLIPPERS, for 7 or S Years. Materials : — Double Berlin or fleecy wool of about the same thickness. Hook to suit, about No. 7 or 8, according to whether you work tightly or loosely. Make a chain of 8. tst row — turn, i double into the second loop from the needle, I double into the next loop, I double into the ne.xt, 3 double into the middle one, * i double into the next. Re- peat from * to the end. You should have 9 double in the row. 2nd row — turn, i chain,* I double in the 1st loop, repeat from * until you have finished the row. j\Iake no in- crease in the middle loop. 3rd row — turn, i chain, I double into the first loop, * i double into the next, repeat from * until you come to the middle loop. Put 3 double into the middle loop, * I double into the next ; repeat from * to the end of the row. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until you have 6 ridges, and about 19 stitches. You must now work on 10 stitches backward and forward to make a strip to go round the heel of the slipper. Proceed in this manner, working on the 10 stitches until you have done about 10 ridges; break off and pin the end of the strip you have just finished to the side of the toe, so as to make both sides of the slipper correspond, and sew up neatly on the wrong side. To crochet the border round the ankle, make I double into the top of a ridge, * 2 chain, or I veiy loose chain, i double into the top of the next ridge. Repeat from * all round. 2nd round — i double into a hole formed by the chain in the previous round; * i rather ■I'T • — • ,j "- T '■'•-■■- ^-^ i'uu-jiij Lbiii-L 11 (.(.>^ u, I \j \y v/i i.iiv..\„iici.iiiiii i.AV\^ iJi.*^»iv/uo i.i.'u^iu, j ± y (*lii The Fancy Work-Basket may Tse had pest free for Six Months for Fifteen Stamps, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. loose chain, 3 treble into the next hole, i rather loose chain, i double into the next hole. Repeat from *. 3rd round — I double mto the middle treble of one of the sets of treble, I rather loose chain, 3 treble into the double which came between the sets of treble in the previous round, i rather loose chain, * I double into the middle treble of the next set of 3 treble, i rather loose chain, 3 treble into the next double in the previous round, i rather loose chain, and repeat from *. For the sole, take a pair of waterproof fleecy socks the right size. Those in the model are marked 13. Cut a piece of American cloth the size of the sock, also a nice piece of flannel. Place the cork sock between the flannel and American cloth, and bind altogether with braid or ribbon. Now sew the crochet upper to the sole, being careful to pin the middle of the toe of the upper to the middle of the toe of the sole, and also have the heel quite correct. Sew firmly and strongly. Zither run a piece of elastic in the ankle and fasten with a ribbon bow, or make a wool tie, either by crocheting a chain about 20 inches long, or plaiting wool the same length, and adding a tassel. If wanted quickly done, the American cloth and flannel could be omitted, and the upper simply sewn to the cork sole. PETTICOAT BODICE IN TRICOT. The following is very simple, and yet shaped so as to fit into the neck without the uncomfortable bulkiness which is so often an objection to woollen things, and at the same time to give very ample room for the child's _ chest and waist. It is also slightly higher at the back than at the front, to give warmth. With sleeves put in, it would form a dress bodice. The dimensions of the model are 7J inches from front of neck to waist, from waist to top of shoulder 94 inches. Waist 24, to button 23 inches. Materials : — 2 oz. single Berlin wool, crochet needle No. 6 or 7, according to your style of working. Tricoter is fully explained in No. I. of the FANCY Work-Basket. You make the backs first, or with a little management the body can be made with the front and backs in one piece, thereby avoiding a join on the shoulders. Make a chain of 27. Put your needle into the second chain, take up all the loops in succession. Work backwards and forwards on the 27 till you have 30 rows or 8 inches. Having finished the 8 inches, work on 1 1 stitches for 17 rows. This is the shoulder strap. Break off the wool. This back is the one for the right hand side. Do the back for the left side in the same way — i.e., make 27 chain, which give 27 stitches. There is one little difference in making this back which you must observe. In the first instance you took up the first 1 1 loops for the shoulder. This time you must break off the wool at the end of the 30 rows, and begin again, taking up the last 11 loops. In this manner you make the backs for the two different sides. Be careful how you join and fasten on your wool, so that it will not show as a join. When you have finished the last of the 17 rows of the left hand side shoulder strap, make a rather tight chain of 28, and join this IS very carefully (with a wool needle if neces- sary) to the other shoulder strap. This is the foundation for the front of the body. When you have joined the chain, you have two strips each of 1 1 loops in width connected by a chain of 28. Now begin and take up the loops across the right hand shoulder strap, then across the chain, and lastly, across the left hand shoulder strap. Altogether there should be 50 loops on your needles. Work 3 plain rows on these 50 loops. 4th row — increase by taking up the top cross loop which lies between the 25th and 26th stitches. Mark this loop for the centre loop, and keep it marked in eveiy subsequent row till you have finished increasing. 5th row — plain. 6th row — increase by taking i up on each side of the centre stitch. This will make 53 loops. 7th row — take up i between the 22nd and 23rd, and i between the 31st and 32nd. 8th row — take up i between the 22nd and 23rd, and between the 33rd and 34th. 9th row — take up a loop between the 22nd and 23rd, and between the 35th and 36th. lothrow — take up I between the 22nd and 23rd, and between the 37th and 3Sth. In all, if you have worked correctly, you will have 61 loops on your needle, ha\'ing increased 11 times. Work 18 plain rows on these 61 loops. When these 18 are com- pleted there will be 28 rows in all, counting from the neck. This completes the front. Bi'eak oft" the \\ ool. To make up — Fold the front and back together evenly at the bottom, and with double wool sew firmly on the wrong side of the crochet the two edges under the armhole together for about 5 inches. This leaves a roomy armhole. When the sides are sewn up, do a row of long double across the whole length of the bottom of the waist. To make long double, wind the wool round the needle, put the needle into the stitch of the previous row, draw the wool through in the ordinary way, and there will now Ije 3 strands on the needle. Wind the wool round the needle again, and di'aw it through all 3 loops at once. In working across the back of the waist you will have no difficulty in finding 2 loops to put your long double in, and it will be necessary to do so in order to make your work firm, but in working across the front you must take the perpendicular or straight down loop which you ha\'e been working in all the time, and a horizontal or straight across loop together. Your work will then be substantial and lie properly. Before sewing the waist on it will be better to crochet the edge to the neck and sleeves. Proceed thus — double crochet into the first stitch, * I chain i treble into the next stitch but one, that will be the 3rd stitch counting from the one into which you put the double crochet, i chain i treble into the same stitch, I chain i double crochet into the next stitch but one to that into which you have just put the treble stitches with the one chain between them. Repeat from *. In doing the corners where the front and back of the neck join on to the shoulders, fill them up as much as you can. It helps to shape the neck. To try to explain — suppose you have worked the scallops across the top of the left hand back, and are going on to the shoulder, make the last treble stitch on the back part in the usual way, excepting that you do not finish it off — you keep it on the needle — make a half finished treble stitch on the shoulder in the same way. There are now 2 unfinished treble on your needle, which, along with the original loop -which was on your needle gi\'e you five loops on the needle. Draw the wool through 4 of the loops, then through the remaining 2. Make the I chain and double crochet into the next stitch but one, and you will now be able to go on with the scallops in the usual way. Carry the scallops down the right side of the back, in which will be the button-holes. Do the sleeves with the same edge as the neck. If you wish them deeper, put a few rows of i chain i treble, till they are deep enough to suit. You will require a little more wool if you wish sleeves, as the 2 ounces is only just sufficient to cany out the directions. iVIake a chain long enough to tie, and run it round the neck underneath the scalloped edge. You will find very con- venient holes across the front. Run it through at the back as well as you can. Finish the ends of the string with small tassels. Sew a piece of tape or flannel binding on the underside of the left hand back, where you put the buttons. You will need 3 medium sized buttons : one at the waist, at the neck below the strings, and in the middle of the back between the two. Sew on the buttons first, and then find the right spot on the other side for the button- holes. Push the wool aside so as to make a hole large enough for the button to go through, and sew it round with wool. Some prefer to leave button-holes when they are working the crochet, but for small buttons about half an inch in diameter (or across them) the above plan does as well, if not better, and is less trouble to a novice. CROCHET PETTICOAT. Daisy Pattern, for Child of 2 to 3 Years. Materials : — 2 cuts of white Berlin wool, or any suitable petticoat wool, and i cut of pink ; medium-sized bone tricot hook. Take the pink wool and make a chain of 280 stitches ; join, and * draw the wool through 14 chain as though you were going to tricot. Pull the wool through all the loops at once (you will have 15), and finish the circle with I chain. Work I double in next chain of foundation, and repeat from * to end of round. 2nd round (pink) — * work 6 treble into hole in centre of first circle in previous row, formed by the chain stitch, i double over the double stitch in previous row, and repeat from *. 3rd row — break oft" the pink wool and join on the white as well as you can, make a slipstitch in centre of the first group of 6 treble, * put the wool round the needle, and raise a stitch 7 times on the chain stitches of preceding row. This will bring you to the centre of next 6 treble. Draw wool all through loops (you will have 1 5, as you put the wool round the needle every time), and finish by achain stitch ; now make i double in centre of the treble, and repeat from * to end of round. 4th row (white)— same as the 2nd. 5th row (pink) — same as 3rd. 6th row (pink)— same as 2nd and 4th. 7th row (white) — same as 3rd and THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 5th. 8th row (white) — same as 2nd, 4th, and 6th. Go on hke this, worlcing 2 rows pinl'C and 2 wliite till you reach the 14th row, when de- crease by passing over a group of 6 treble in 13th row 3 times. Work 3 more rows without decreasing, then decrease again. Continue decreasing every 4th row till you have worked the 23rd row, when, instead of working round, you must break off at every row for the placket hole ; work to the 29th row, then crochet a row of double round waist and placket hole. Now, having prepared a lining bodice with drawstrings and buttons, sew the petticoat firmly to it with strong cotton, letting whatever fulness there may be go to the back. These directions may be adapted for any size petticoat by making the foundation chain any size required, and work- ing the proper length. It is a very pretty pattern, resembling very much the flower from which it takes its name. CROCHET PETTICOAT FOR 10 YEARS. Materials required : — Three and a half ounces white peacock fingering, two and a half ounces rose pink ditto, or any other pretty shade. Bone crochet hook. No. 13. Make a chain of the white wool of 45 inches in lengdi. Turn, make 5 chain, i treble in 2nd chain of foundation, * 3 chain I treble in same chain as the first treble, miss 2 chain, I treble in 3rd (with no chain between), 3 chain I treble in same chain, miss 2 chain, i treble in 3rd, repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — Turn, 5 chain I treble in the first hole formed by 3 chain i treble, 3 chain and I treble in every hole formed by 3 chain in previous row. Work 18 rows in this stitch, turning your work to form placket hole. 19th row to be worked all round (with white) — 6 chain, 5 long treble in first hole formed by 3 chain, * I double in next hole formed by 3 chain, 6 longjtreble in ne.xt hole of 3 chain, and repeat from * to end of row, always mis- sing the two trebles that have no chain between them. 20th row (m pink) — i double in middle of first scallop, * 6 long treble over double crochet, I double in middle of next scallop, and repeat from * to end of row. All the remain- ing rows are like this row, and are done in alternate red and white. About 36 rows are sufficient. Crochet a row of double round the placket liole, and make a chain of double wool to run in waist and finish with tassels. This is an extremely pretty petticoat, which can be made any size by working more rows of the open work, and making the first row longer. Long treble is made by winding the wool twice round the needle and drawing through two loops at a time till all are worked off. CHILD'S KNITTED PETTICOAT. 2 TO 4 Years. Materials required: — 2 long wooden needles with heads on, No. 9 ; 54 oz. white Lady Betty wool, 2 oz. scarlet Lady Betty wool; I i yards white ribbon. Cast on 264 stitches with double wool (scarlet), ist row — Knit plain (slip the ist stitchj. 2nd row — Purl. 3rd row — Knit plain. With white wool. 4th row — Slip I, knit i, make i, knit 3, * slip I, slip I again, knit 2 together, take the laai slipped stitch over, knit 3, make i, knit I, make i, knit 3, repeat from * at the end of this row, make i, knit 2. 5th row — Purl. 6th row — Like the 4th. 7th row — Purl. 8th row — Like the 4th. 9th row — Purl. loth row— Like the 4th. nth row — Purl. 1 2th row — Like the 4th. 1 3th row with scarlet wool — Purl. 14th row — Purl. 15th row — Knit plain. l6th row — Purl. 17th row — Purl. Then again with white wool. Begin the pattern agjin at the 4th row. Knit 4 rolls and 4 patterns for the top of the petti- coat with vv'hite wool. Knit i plain row then. Knit 2, purl 2 for two rows ; after these decrease at the beginning of e\-ery row by knitting 2 together, and continue the ribbing for 22 rows from the last coloured row. Now the decreasing should be at the beginning a/nil end of every row for the last 15 rows, so as to decrease 30 stitches more, until only 212 stitches remain. Knit 2 plain rows with scarlet wool, i ro\v of holes with wool 3 times round the needle. Knit 6 plain rows, I row of scarlet, and 5 rows of white. Cast oft" with white. Knit the other half the same until the ribbing, when the stitches are divided, and each side knitted separately from the opening. Crochet the two halves together. Run a ribbon through the holes at the top. PRETTY CROCHET HOOD. For Child of 6 Months. Materials required; — 3 ozs. of cardinal Berlin wool and a fine bone hook. Make a chain of 80, turn, and insert your needle in 2nd chain, pulling a loop through as for tricot. Repeat four times more till you have raised 5 loops, which makes 6 with the one on your needle. Draw wool through and make i chain to form a shell. Put needle in centre hole formed by one chain and raise a loop, then through quite the back strand of last loop in previous shell, then through the chain that holds it, then through the next 2 chain. Draw through as before, and repeat this second shell to end of row. You should have 39 shells ; you will only have 5 loops in last shell instead of 6. Break off and fasten off as well as you can. This stitch is called point de neige, and is fully ex- plained with diagram in No. i of the FANCY Work-Basket. 2nd row — pull wool through and leave it double for about an inch, make 3 chain, insert your needle in 2nd chain from it and draw a loop through, then through next, then through back strand of stitch that lies close by, then through centre hole of shell, then through next oblong stitch. Pull through as before. 2nd shell. Wool through centre hole of first shell, then through back strand of last stitch of the same shell, then through chain thatholdsit, then through centre hole of next shell in first row, then through oblong loop of following shell, draw throug All shells are like this shell, and every row i worked like the 2nd. Work 8 rows thus. 9th row — commence at I4tli shell in 8th row, but do not begin as you did before. Insert your needle in the top strand of 13th shell, draw wool through, then through centre hole, then through top strand of 14th shell, then through centre of same, then through top strand of 15th, draw through and work the other shells in the ordinary way till you have got your 6 loops for your 26th shell, when draw your wool through the top strand of 27th, then through centre hole. Thus you have 8 loops instead of 6 ; draw wool through, make i chain, and fasten off securely, drawing the end of wool on to wrong side of work. \\^ork e\-er>' row like this till you have taken in the sides, or 13 rows. This completes head part. The size given is for a small child of 6 months, but any size could be made by measuring size round face, and after working plain rows for about 4 to 5 inches, divide the shells into 3, and only work the cerrtre 3rd, taking' in the sides as de- scribed. Now join on the wool at right-hand corner for curtain. Mark the middle hole of centre part of hood — viz.^ the 7th, uith a piece of cotton or another coloured wool. Make 3 chain as before, and raise 2 loops in the first 2, the other 3 on the chain of hood. Then go on making shells. You will have to make 10 on the chain, but when you get to the 1st shell of centre part of hood you can work on it in the usual manner. Take the 5th and 6th shells together thus — raise the usual 6 loops, then raise one through centre hole of next shell, then through back of top strand of next. This gives 8 loops. Always decrease in this way. Take the 21st and 22nd shells together, and go on to end of row. After you have worked over the 13 centre shells, you will have to increase by drawing through 4 or 5 loops instead of 6, to make a corresponding 10 shells to those on right side. You should have 31 in all. Break off, and work plainly for 2 more rows. 4th row — increase over 13th and 14th by taking up 5 loops instead of 6 3 times. In- crease the same way over 19th and coth shells. 5th row — plain. 6th row — increase as before. 7th and 8th rows— plain. This finishes the hood. Now crochet a row of double firmly all round edge, and proceed to make the trimming. If you can knit, do so ; but if not, make loop crochet (for first, see No. I ; second, No. 2) li inches wide sufficient to go all round hood. Sew it on with red cotton. Line your hood neatly with sarcenet or sateen. Thread a bodkin with about I yard of narrow ribbon, and run through the centre holes of shells where you began your curtain, draw through and tie in a nice bow. Make a pretty full bow for top of crown and sew on. The little front can be either bound v.'ith a piece of sarcenet, or placed between the hood and lining. The first plan is the best, on account of changing. Add wide ribbon strings, and the hood is completed, and forms as dainty a little head-covering as could be desired. It may, as before mentioned, be carried out to any size, and the directions would ser\-e for a baby's first hood, made in cream Andalusian, and trimmed prettily with lace and cream satin ribbon. Or for inexpensive presents to the poor, the ribbon could be dispensed with, a little feather being made of loop knitting for the top. For the neck, crochet chain with double wool, and run through instead of ribbon and finish by tassels. Pleat a little lace in front instead of a cap. 19 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. CHILD'S REINS. Materials : curtain or picture cord, scarlet braid and scarlet worsted (or you can make them all braid), and a pair of knitting needles. No. 14, if you knit. Take a piece of cord and sew the end of it into a round, large enough for an armhole to slip easily over the arm when the child is dressed for play, and now twist the cord round the circle again, so that the armhole is made of double cord; keep it flat. Now bind this circle of double cord firmly round and round with the braid, and fasten the end off securely. Make another armhole the same way. Unite the two across the chest by a strip of braid or a knitted piece. Make the knitted piece thus: cast on 16 stitches, knit plain like a garter till long enough to go across the chest, cast off and fasten to each armhole, now knit a piece in the same way, but i| or 2 yards long; fasten each end to the back of an arm- hole. Finish by sewing from two to six of the little penny bells on the shoulder of each armhole very firmly to the braid, and if liked a few across the front strap. For- a child with a delicate chest make the front strap four inches wide. BABY'S GLOVE, 12 MONTHS OLD. Materials required : — 4 steel needles No 1 5 and 4 No. 17. Half ounce white eider wool, one yard white ribbon. Cast on 40 stitches on one. nefedle, knit them off on three needles, 13 oil two, 16 on the third. Use needles No. 15. Knit 3, seam i alternately for 2 rounds. Knit i round plain. Seam 3 rounds. Knit i round plain. Knit 3, seam i alternately for 3 rounds. Knit I round plain. Seam 3 rounds. Knit i round plain. Knit 3, seam i alternately for 7 rounds. You are now to take needles No 17. Knit 2 rounds nlain. Next round— * knit 2. Make i (wool 3 times round the needle). Knit 2 together. Repeat from *. Knit 2 rounds plain. Take needles No 15. Knit 2 rounds plain. 3rd round — Knit i, seam i, alternately all round. 4th and 5th rounds — Knit plain. Observe 2 rounds plain knitting are to be repeated between each increasing round. 6th round — Knit I, seam I, raise i. This is done this first time in the round by when you come to the 3rd stitch, before working it, putting your needle through the loop below, in reality the stitch of the last row, and drawing the wool through it ; the second time you raise it is done after you have knitted or seamed a stitch by, before you let the loop down, putting your needle in at the back of the same loop and drawing the wool through. Knit I, seam i, raise i. Knit i, seam I alternately rest of round. 9th round — Knit I, seam i, raise i, seam i, knit i, twice (this 20 means repeat the seam i, knit i alternately so many times between the raisings) raise i. Knit I, seam i alternately rest of round. I2th round — Knit i, seam i, raise i, knit i, seam i three times, raise i, knit i, seam i alternately rest of round. 15th round — Knit I, seam i, raise i, seam i, knit i four times, raise i, knit i, seam i alternately rest of round. i8th round — Knit I, seam i, raise i, knit i, seam i five times, raise i, knit i, seam i alternately rest of round. 21st round — Knit i, seam i, raise i, seam i, knit i six times, raise i, knit i, seam i alternately rest of round. 22nd round— Knit 3, slip on a piece of wool the next 12 stitches, and secure it to prevent their slipping off. These stitches are afterwards taken up for the thumb. Rest of round knit plain. 23rd round — Knit plain. 24th round — * Knit I, seam i alternately, knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat from * five times more. You now use the smaller needles to reduce the size at the top of the glove, ist round — Knit i, seam i alternately. Two rounds plain knitting. 4th round — Knit 3, knit 2 together alternately. Knit two rounds plain. 7th round— Knit 2, knit 2 together alternately. Knit 2 rounds plain. Take the large-sized needles] and knit i round plain with them. Break off a sufficient length of wool, slip all the stitches on it, and draw together. The Thumb. Use needles No. 15. Take up thumb- stitches thus : 4 on each of three needles, adding 3 more on the 3rd by taking up two where there is the opening. * Knit 2 rounds plain. 1st round — seaming i and knitting i alternately. Repeat from * 3 times more. Two rounds plain knitting. Take needles No. 17. Knit 2 rounds plain. 3rd round — Knit 2 together, knit 3 alternately, end with knit 2. Knit i round plain. Knit another plain round, but with the larger needles. Draw wool through the loops and fasten off. To make a left-hand glove, form the thumb at the end of the 3rd needle instead of the beginning of the first. Make the 1st, raising when within four loops of the end of the round. WINTER VEST For Delicate Child of 6 Months Old. Materials : — No. 12 steel needles, An- dalusian wool. Cast on very loosely 99 stitches. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — narrow fthat is, take 2 together), knit 2 plain, over (that is, the same as wool forward, but shorter, to, say), knit l, over, knit 2, narrow,* narrow, knit 2, over, knit i, over, knit 2, narrow, repeat from * to the end of the row. 5th row — purl back. Repeat the 4th and 5th rows five times more. i6th row — Purl. 17th row — plain. 1 8th row — purl. 19th row — plain. Commence with the 4th row again, and repeat right through to the 19th again, and then again once more. This will give you three sets of patterns and four plain ribs. Now make one stitch, so that you may have 100, and then knit in ribs of 3 plain, 2 purl for 7 inches. For the shoulders, slip off 30 stitches on to wool, cast off 40, and knit on the remaining 30 for 2J or 24 inches ; then slip the 30 you have just done on to wool, and pick up the first 30 you slipped off and work on them for the same length ; then cast on 40, then work on the 30 of the second shoulder, picking them off the wool, and work for 7 inches in 3 plain, 2 purl, and then do the fancy part as you worked it in the first side. In doing the ribs, take care to slip the first stitch in eveiy row. For the sleeve : take up 2 stitches on the top of the shoulder to begin with. Work back and forth in the same ribs as you did the body of the vest, taking up 2 stitches at the end of every row, and keeping them as right as you can in the ribs you are making. Go on in this way till you have 40 or 45 stiches on the needle, and then knit till close down on the baby's wrist. When within an inch of the full length you wish the sleeve, take a finer pair of knitting needles, if you want the sleeve to fit close, and knit in ribs of i plain, i purl, to finish off like a jersey, but this is not necessary, though some ladies like it ; and also the neck can be finished by knitting the 7th inch in the same way with finer needles. The armhole should be about 2 inches or a little more when the vest is laid double, but if it does not seem quite wide enough for your baby, and the little creatures vary so much at the same age, just knit a little square gusset, and sew it in like they used to sew the gussets into the shirts in olden time. After the knitting is done, sew the sides and sleeves up, and make a little crochet scallop, if it seems necessary, round the neck, bottoms of the sleeves, and bottom of the vest itself. This vest is high-necked rather, to match the sleeves. PRETTY CROCHET DRESS FOR Baby id Months Old. Materials required : — 5 ozs. Berlin wool, a medium bone crochet hook, 2 yards ribbon. 1st row— 86 chain. 2nd row — i treble into every successive chain. 3rd row — turn and work a row of treble on wrong side, catching up back loop of stitch only. Do four rows alternately thus, right and wrong side, then work 4 rows of treble of 17 stitches each, miss S treble and work 4 rows of 36 treble in middle, miss 8 treble, and work 4 rows of 17 treble; this forms the armholes. Connect last row with others by means of 8 chain, then work one row of treble, then one row edging, thus— 2 treble, 3 chain, and i double crochet in same hole, then repeat to end. Next in the spaces left for sleeves work 36 treble, join rouud and work another 36 on wrong side, then 3 rows of edging, thus— 2 treble, 3 chain, and i double crochet. Next row do wrong side, putting all into chain of preceding row : this finishes the bodice. For skirt, work into the 86 treble 120 treble, then turn and work on wrong side ; repeat 16 times, after you have worked backwards and forwards for placket hole, join and work round increasing 4 treble in each row; after you have worked enough in rows for placket hole, join and work round ; then at bottom work 4 rows of edging as for sleeve. Run ribbon through neck and waist. Price 2id. post-free. HOW TO MAKE UNDERCLOTHING. By MBS. LEACH, 8, Jolmsou's Coui-t, Fleet Street, Loudon. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. KNITTED JACKET. With Crochet Edge, to Fit Child One Year Old. Materials required: — 25 ozs. white Alliance fingering wool, i oz. coral-coloured Shetland wool, and J oz. white Shetland wool. 3 bone knitting needles, No. 1 1, standard gauge, and a rather fine crochet hook (bone). Each pattern requires 6 stitches, to be knitted as follows: — Knit ilrst 3 r«ws plain. 4th row — * 3 purl, 3 plain, repeat from *. 5lh row— * 3 purl, 3 plain, repeat from *. 6th row — same as 4th row; repeat from 1st row. This pattern is knitted all through jacket and sleeves, and will not be repeated. Care must be taken that the diamonds of raised stitches are exactly over each other. For Left Front oi^ Jacket. I Cast on 50 stitches with white Alliance wool, and increase one stitch at beginning and end of every alternate row till there are 62 stitches on needle, then only at beginning of needle, till there are 6S stitches, then de- crease for shoulder every alternate row at beginning of needle till there are 56 stitches left on needle; then cast off 22 stitches for armhole, and continue knitting the 34 stitches left on the needle for 8 rows ; then cast on 22 stitches for second half of armhole, and increase evei-y alternate row, for second half of shoulder, till there are 68 stitches. Knit 28 rows without either increasing or de- creasing, when half the jacket will be knitted. Knit secondhalf of jacket to correspond with first half, of course reversing the decreasing and increasing, and cast off. For Sleeve. Cast on 54 stitches, and knit pattern same as jacket; decrease one stitch at beginning and end of every 4th row, till there are only 42 stitches left on needle, knit 49 rows from beginning of sleeve, and cast off. For Crochet Border. With coral-coloured Shetland wool and bone crochet hook. Crochet * 4 treble into first stitch of jacket (left-hand front at neck end), miss 3 stitches of the knitting, repeat from *, but at the front corners miss 2 stitches instead of 3, to keep the work flat. Work all round jacket. 2nd row— with white Shet- land wool * 6 treble between the second and third of the first 4 trebles of last row, 1 double between the second and third trebles of second set of 4 treble of last row; repeat from * but at corners. Work the double stitch between the sets of 4 treble, instead of into alternate sets, for three times. 3rd row— * 6 treble between the tlijrd and fourth of the first si.x treble of last row, i double on first double of last row ; repeat from * all round to top of right-hand front. Break off wool. 4th row— with the coloured Shetland wool, s treble between third and fourth treble of first set of 6 treble of last row, i double between fourth and fifth treble of last row, I double between fifth and sixth treble of last row, then put hook through first double of last row, and draw wool through, aj,ain through first double of third row, and again through first double of second row, then draw wool through, * 2 of the loops on needle; repeat from * till all are off. i double be- tween first and second treble of next set of 6 treble of last row to left, I double between second and third treble of next set of 6 treble to left of last row ; repeat from * all round. Make 3 loops of 12 chain, taking 4 ply of the coloured Shetland wool, join to first stitch of the 12 chain, and sew on right front of jacket at neck, and *, missing two scallops of edge again, sew on loop ; repeat from *. Sew on buttons — one on the top of each loop, and on rit;ht front exactly opposite the buttons on left front. BABY'S KNITTED BOOT. I oz. ciJ.tr yarn, 4 pins. No. 15. Cast on 50 stitches on one needle. Do 12 rows in ribs of 2 plain, 2 purl. 13th row— wool before the needle, knit 2 together, "^ knit next 2 together, repeat from * to end of row. 14th row — plain, but pick up the loop between each stitch except the last 2, those you do not pick up; this brings back the 50 stitches. 15th row — plain. .16th row — purl. Repeat the 13th to i6th"i;pws until you have 9 sets of pattern, but when you come to the 15th ro.v and finished it (being the last set of pattern), begin the i6th row by purling 18 stitches ; then take another needle, and purl 14, leave the other 18 stitches on the left needle unnoticed ; take a fourth needle and work backwards and forwards on the 14 stitches (taking care to have the right side towards you). Repeat the 13th to i6th rows as in the leg until you have 5 patterns (taking care to have same number of stitches (14) as at the beginning of each pattern). Cast off. This is for the instep : take the right hand needle, having right side towards you, and having iS stitches on it, pick up 11 stitches from the side of piece for instep, commence knitting (from right side of work on this needle) plain to end of needle, then take up the wool what you are working with and cast on 15 fresh stitches; altogether, you should have 44 stitches. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — plain, to within 2 stitches, then slip i, knit I, pass slipped over. 4th row — plain, without decreasing. 5th row — same as 3rd. 6th row — same as 4th ; continue decreasing every alternate row, like 3rd and 4th rows, until you have done 6 ridges or 11 rows. 12th row— plain to within 2 stitches, sHp i, knit I, piss slipped over. 13th row— plain, and de- crease as nth; keep decreasing at each end of rows from nth to 12th rows, until you have 26 stitches left, and 12 ridges altogether. Cast off; pick up the 15 stitches that you cast on for the toe, knit a plain row (picking up one of the stitches that you cast off when finishing the patterned piece for instep; knit it and one of tlie 15 stitches to:;ether; you will still have 15 slitchcs left. 2nd' row- plain, without decreasing. 3rd row^same as 1st; continue these 2 rows till you can count 13 ridges on the right side; now break off the wool without casting off the stitches. You now begin working on the other 18 stitches, and the left hand needle: pick up 1 1 stitches from side of piece for instep, com- mence working from wrong side of work, knit a plain row, including the 15 stitches what you have left unnoticed. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — plain to within 2 stitches of end of needle, slip I, knit I, pass slipped over. 4th row — plain, without decreasing. Repeat from 3rd to 4th rows until you have done 6 ridges or II rows. 12th row — plain to within 2 stitches, slip I, knit I, pass slipped over. 13th row — plain, and decrease as in the 12th row; keep decreasing at each end of needle from I2th to 13th rows until you have only 26 stitches left, and 12 ridges altogether. Cast off. You have now finished the sides, and have now to do the gusset for the toe: pick up 13 stitches from across the toe and do * I plain row. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — plain to within 2 stitches of the end of needle, slip I knit I, pass slipped over. 4th row — same as 3rd *. Repeat from * until you have only I stitch left on the needle. Cast off. You have now to sew up all the parts ; commence sew- ing up the back of leg, and then the heel and foot, and sew the gusset in the two standing sides, and finish off the ends securely. *^. KNITTED BOOT. Materials required :— i oz. pink and J oz. white Andalusian wool ; 2 pins, No." 16. Cast on 50 stitches with the pink. 1st row —knit plain. 2nd row— knit the first 3 stitches, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, the last 3 stitches knit ; repeat this row twice. 5th row — plain. 6th row — purl. ..yth row — slip the 1st stitch, * take 2 together, repeat from ■^j knit the last stitch. 8th row — slip the 1st stitch, * put the wool over the needle to increase, knit I, repeat from*. In this way you ought to have 50 stitches on your needles. 9th row — knit. loth row — purl. nth row— slip the 1st stitch, * take 2 together, repeat from * knit the last stitch. 1 2th row — the same as 8th. 13th row — plain, r^th row — purl. Now join the white wool. Do I plain row, then 9 rows of ribbed knitting, but remember to do 3 plain stitches both at the beginning and end of every row loth row — plain, nth row — purl 12th row — slip the 1st stitch, * take 2 together, repeat from *, knit the last stitch. 13th row — slip the 1st stitch, * pass wool over the needle, knit I, repeat from *. There ought now to be 50 stitches. 14th row — plain. 15th row — purl. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times, so as to have 4 rows of ornamental holes. Join pink wool. 1 6th row — slip I, take 2 together, knit 10, take 2 together, knit 20, take 2 t( gether, knit 10, take 2 together, knit I. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row- — slip i, take 2 together, continue to knit plain until you come to the 3rd and 2nd from the end, which must 21 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. be knitted together. 20th row— plain. 21st row— slip I, knit 3 together, knit 2 together again, continue plain until to within 5 of •the heel, when you knit the 5th and 4th together, knit the 3rd and 2nd and the last plain. 22nd row— plain. 23rd row— shp i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together again, plain till the 2nd and 3rd from the end, which must be knitted together. 24th row— plain. 25th row — slip I, knit 2 together, the rest plain. 26th row— plain. 27th row — slip i, knit 2 together, rest plain. 2Sth row— plain. Cast off. off 18 stitches, with the remaining 18 knit 24 rows in the following pattern. Knit 2, purl 2 for 2 rows. Purl 2, knit 2 for 2 rows. Re- peat so as to have 24 rows. Cast on 18 stitches. Knit 12 rows, decreasing at the toe till you have 31. Cast off. Pickup 18 stitches on each side, and 12 in the centre, making 48 in all. Knit I row. Knit 8 rows of the pattern (like the toe). Knit 2, purl 2 for 2 rows. Purl 2, knit 2 for 2 rows. Make an open row for the ribbon in the following way. Put the wool over the needle 3 times. Knit 2 together. Repeat to the end. Knit i row plain. Knit 24 rows of the pattern. Knit 8 rows as follows. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat. Knit 4 plain rows. Cast off. Sew it up care- fully; the front of the toe has to be gathered a little. Run a ribbon through the holes. Pick up 1 1 stitches of pink at C to form the toe. 1st row— knit. Then increase at the toe at the beginning of every other row until you have 18 stitches. Knit 3 rows plain. 4th row— plain. 5th row— knit 14. joi" t^^ white, knit 16, turn round and work on those 1 6 stitches in white, leaving the pink on the needle without working them. Purl a row. Then slip the ist stitch, * take 2 together, repeat from * The next row slip i, and increase before every stitch by passing wool over the needle ; you ought now to have 16 stitches. Kit a row, purl a row. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times, until 5 rows of orna- mental holes are done. Cast off the white, and go on with the pink on tlie right-hand side. Pick up 1 1 stitches from the side of white flap, make 1 1 stitches. Knit 14 rows. 15th row— * slip 1st stitch, take 2 together. This ought to be at the toe. The rest plain. 1 6th row— plain. 17th row— slip I, take 2 together, rest plain. iSth row— plain. 19th row — slip I, take 2 together, take 2 together again, rest plain within 3 of the end, knit 2nd and 3rd together, the last plain. Decrease every other row at the toe, until you have only II stitches. Pick up 11 white stitches at the side of flap D, still knitting with pjnk wool, and take up the 14 stitches at E. Knit 14 rows in pink. Go back to * at the 15th row and end at the 2Sth row. BABY'S KNITTED BOOT. Two steel knitting needles and loz. white cider wool for a pair, one yard white ribbon. Cast on 25 stitches. Always slip the 1st stitch. Knit 12 rows, increasing (by knitting first the front and then the back of the same stitch) at the beginning of each row, till you have 37. Knit 12 rows, decrensiiig (by knitting 2 together) at the beginning of each row, till you have 25. This forms the sole. Cast on 6 stitches for the heel, in- creasing at the toe till you have 36. Cast 22 BABY'S CROCHET BOOTS. Berlin wool. Make 10 chains, this allows i for turning, now do 9 rows of double crochet, allowing i chain for turning at each end, taking the back stitch so as to form ridges, increase I in the centre stiich every row, no^\' work to the middle, then make 16 chain, this allows one to turn, work up and down full length in double crochet to form the leg until you have 1 1 ridges on the right side, turn wrong side and sew up. To make the sole. 9 chain allows l to turn, work double crochet, take both sides the stitch for 22 rows, and sew in. For fancy trimminj, work double crochet with 4 chain between in every 4th loop, up one ridge and down the other, nearly to the ankle all round. Finish round top of sock in same way. It is an improve- ment to draw a few stitches of bright-coloured silk over edge of frill with sewing needle, and lie at ankle with ribbon to match. No. 1. Fairy Antimacassar in Zulu clutli, fringed, knotted and pivparcd for working, l.s. Gd. No. 2. Dolpli-ii Antiraa^assar on now Zulu cloth, fringed and ready for working, Is. Cd. No. 3. Nig-lit Dress Bag, made in Zidu clotli. and ready for working, Is. Ud. To let '-ift, seven pieces, on Zulu cloth, to match br'.ish and iomb bag, Is. i)d. Post free. 1^77 Silks and Cbkwels. jVofice.— Silks .and crewels may be had in all shades at 2d. per skein, with a charge of Id. extra for postage for every six skeins. Stamps with order. Mrs. Leach, 3T, New Kent Road, London, S.F.. Mrs. LEACH'S PRACTICAL FAMILY DRESSMAKER Is publishal on the 2(>th day 0/ every month, Pries TWOPENCE, For r.j5t Free for Six Months for Fifteen Stamp.s. THE CHILDREN'S DRESSM.AKER U published on the lOiA day of every month^ Price ONE PENNY, or Post Free for Six Months for Nine Stamps. Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, London. No. lO. Crewel Work Antimacassar. "Where's THE Cat?' A QUAINT idea for an antimacassar, lo be worked in out- line and as far as possible in the colours of nature In working the tree and its branches, care should be taken neither to make the figure of the nriissing pussy too coij- spicuous nor to blur its outline so as to render a reply to the query " Where's the Cat ?" impossible. Bright colours may be used for the woman's figure, and the dead hen should be of a dull red with black feet, the same as the earthenware platter, the dead chicken a pale brown with red feet. The gra.ss, weeds, i.nd foliage two or three shades of olive-green; he letters in dark blue with red initials. This antimacassar m ly be had ready traced on Zulu cloth, fringed, knotted, and ready for use, js. (>d. ; Indigo blue cloth, -^s. 6'i. Post fr,c, from Mrs. Claka Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London. SAMPLES OF CREWEL "WORK FOR BEGINNERS. For the convenience of ladies who may desire to learn art-needlework, but are unwilling to try their 'prentice hands on valuable pieces of work, such as tli'ise advertised in our columns, we propose to oft'er them a " Beginner's Sample," post free, is , from Mrs. Ci.ara Leach, at address below. This beginner's sample will be a piece of material traced with any flower in genend use, part of which will be com- menced by a first-class lady ariist ; sufficient tracing left to practice upon and e.\lra crewel and needle for that pur- pose. Such a scheme for teaching is sure to be appre- ciated, for no belter mode can be imagined. Address, Mrs. Clara Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London, S.E. Now Ready. The Third Edition of No. i of The Pa33.cy "Work-Taasket Conlains full exjjlanations with diagrams for work- ing every stitch in Crochet, Knitting, Crewel Work, and Embroidery. Also practical and tested receipts for making Crochet Frock, Pelisse, Lidies' aid Children's Petticoats, Bedroom Slippe''s, Antimacassars, .Sofa-blankets, Gentle- man's Waistcoat, &e. Also how to knit Infants' Socks, Bodices, Ladies' Pttticjats, Beaded Cuffs, &c., &c, Nos. 2 AND 3 ARE ALSO I.\ I'RINT, And contain explicit instructions for Knitting and Crocheting Infants' Cloaks and Hoods, Pelisses, Fiocks, Petticoats, Boots, Head-squares, &c. ; Ladies' Shawls, Petticoats, Slippers, Chemise top.5, Child's Combinations, Ladies' Shoulder Cape.s, Collars and Cuffi, Counterpanes, Antimacassars and I£dgings,Babie=' Boots, hamlsome Braid Work, Ladies', Gentlemen's and Children's Underveits, Infants' House Jackets, Tam o' Shanteis. Chapter on Shocking Knitting. Also a series of Articles on Home I!)ecoration, showing how the Home may be beautified at a small expense, and giving directions for a variety of pretty knicknicks, both useful and ornamen;al. Each number will be sent post-free for 2id., or thi three nunabers for 7.M , on application to R. S. Cartwright, 8, Johnson's Court, I'leet Street, London ; or the books may be 1:£J of all news- agents, price 2d. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. MOUNTMELLICK EMBROIDERY. Materials : — Good washing white jean or sateen, and knitting cotton of two sizes, coarse and fine ; as a guide say No. 2 or 4 for •the coarse, and No. 11 or 12 for the fine. Trace a pattern in some conventional design, on a night-dress case, comb-bag, or some similar article. Some of the transfer patterns are quite suitable. Work each petal of the flowers and leaves in crewel stitch in the coarse cotton, having a proper veining down the centre of the leaves. Now work over again with the fine cotton in satin stitch. This gives an elegant raised look to the work, and it is very quickly done. If you want it very high put a tiny piece of cotton wool under the coarse cotton. For the stalks, and any scroll work, lay the coarse cotton along the required line, i, 2, or 3 lengths as needed for the Avidth, and just sew over very evenly with the fine cotton, the stitches being an 8th, l6th, or I of an inch apart, just ac- cording to the kind of work you are doing. The fringe for trimming the above is given below. The work looks as well or better when washed than it looks when new. It is an old kind of work come up ; below is a description of a quilt. OUILT. The quilt we are describing is a kind of heir-loom. We do not know how old it is, but it must be considerably over fifty years of age. The quilt is of large size, worked on fine lawn lined with calico. In the centre is a large group, about 30 by 20 inches, of various kinds of fruits, melons, apples, pears, grapes, &c., all natural size, and beautifully drawn and worked. In each corner is a smaller group of ferns and grasses, hart's-tongues, maiden hair, mosses, &c. In the middle of the space along the sides and ends are baskets of fruit. The wickerwork is beautifully drawn and carried out ; so are the flowers. The work is done in quite coarse knitting cotton. No. I or 2 probably, or perhaps No. 4, and is not raised except in parts — grapes, for instance, and small leaves and fruits. Some of it is in crewel, and some in satin stitch. We really think that for anyone fond of that kind of work it is quite worth while, it lasts so long. All the spaces between the different designs are filled up with scrolls and tendrils, formed as aljove stated, by laying a coarse thread along the desired track, and sewing over and over with finer cotton at regular intervals. Be sure to have a good firm foun- dation. Lawn or calico are not strong enough The foundation of the quilt mentioned has given way, while the work is good as ever, and any mishap of that sort is such a pity. MOUNTMELLICK FRINGE TRIMMINGS. Have 3 balls of the fine knitting-cotton wound. Put the three ends together, and wind all into a Ijall so that you work them as one thread. Use coarse steel needles. No. 12 or 13. Cast on 8 stitches — ist row — cotton forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, knit 4 plain. 2nd row — loiit 4 No. 5. plain, forward, take 2 together, forward take 2 together. Repeat the ist and 2nd row until you have the length required. Cast off the first 4 stitches, and drop the 4 which you knitted plain throughout, and let them run down the whole way. Good Toilette Set. Have nightdress case, table-mats, and comb-bag cut out and traced with a suitable pattern. Work in the mountmellick work as described, and trim with the fringe. You will find them handsome, very useful, good washing articles ; and, to use a popular phrase " they wear for ever." OPEN KNITTING IN STOCKINGS. Feather Pattern. You must calculate 17 stitches for each pattern. All these are arranged for 4 needles. Many people purl a stitch at the end of each pattern. In stockings it is per- haps best to do so, as it has a tendency to make the work flatter. In that case you must reckon 18 stitches for each pattern. After casting on, knit 2 plain rounds, then purl a round. 1st round of pattern — * take 2 together, repeat from * twice more (you have thus narrowed 3 times in succession) ; * wool forward, knit i, repeat from * until you have brought the wool forward and knitted i five times. Bring the wool forward the 6th time, and * take 2 together, repeat from * twice more. That will just take your 17 stitches. If you have made an i8th stitch — ^-^ r •■ . — always purl it. Repeat from the ist *. 2nd round — plain knitting. 3rd round — plain knitting. 4th round— purl. Commence again with the 1st round of the pattern, and re- peat these 4 rounds until you are quite used to the stitch, which is really ver>' simple. Keep counting your stitches on each needle every time you do the pattern row, to see that you have the right number. In every pattern you narrow 3 times at each end of the pattern (that is, 6 times in all), and you in- crease 6 stitches to make up for those you narrow by bringing the wool forward 6 times in the centre of the pattern as in the direc- tions; so that you must always have the same number of stitches on the needle when the pattern is finished that you had when yoi7 cast on. If you do not like the purl round omit it. The object is to make the pattern more prominent, and it is generally consi- dered an improvement. A Larger Fe.4ther, A larger feather ior larger stockings can be made by casting on 24 stitches for each pattern. Knit 2 plain rounds and i purl round, ist round of pattern — take 2 together 4 times, bring the wool forward, knit i for 7 times; now bring the wool forward and *take 2 together, repeat from * 3 times more. Purl the 24th stitch always. 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rounds — follow the instructions given in the feather above. Rose-leaf Pattern. Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. Cast on carefully, as you cannot do a plain round, but must begin the pattem at once, ist round — * knit 6, wool forwai'd, knit 1. ■saooI forw^ard, knit 6, purl i. Repeat from *". 2nd round — *" take 2 together, knit il, take 2 to- gether, purl I. Repeat from *. Repeat these 2 rounds, as they compose tlie pattern. When you hare done an inch or two, the Vandyke at the edge will show up well. ^.^ 75 THL MNCY VVOkK-BASKEt, Gothic Pattern. Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by lo. ist round — you must knit plain. 2nd round — purl. 3rd round — plain. 4th round — purl. 5th round — begin the pattern, knit I, bring the wool forward, knit 3, * slip I, take 3 together, pass the slip stitch over them, knit 3, bring the wool forward, knit I, bring the wool for- ward, knit 3. Repeat from *. 6th round — plain knitting. Repeat the 5th and 6th rounds 5 times, and then begin again with the 1st round. If you do not like the purl rounds in between the sets of patterns, knit 4 plain rounds instead, or go on with the pattern all the time. Be guided by the shape of the child's leg. If the leg is a little fat short leg, it would most likely look better without the purl stripes round, while a thin leg would probably be better with them: If you omit the purl rounds between the pat- terns, you must omit them at the beginning also. Vandyke Pattern. Allow 9 stitches for each pattern, ist round — plain. 2nd round — purl. 3rd round —plain. 4th round — purl. 5th round — begin the pattern, * take 2 together, knit 2, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2, take 2 together, repeat from *. 6th round — plain knitting. Repeat the 5th and 6th rounds 5 times more until you have 6 holes done; that will of course make 6 times, including the 1st. Now go back to the ist round and repeat all again. General Directions for making use OF THE above patterns. To begin with, we will premise that you know how to shape a sock or a stocking already. The patterns given can all be used for children's socks, or ladies' stockings ; but when knitting them you must exercise a con- siderable amount of thoughtful care, so that your work may turn out satisfactorily. In socks which are without narrowings you can make the whole of the leg in open work, and have the heel and the bottom of the foot plain. In stockings where you are obliged to shape the leg, the narrowings are a diffi- culty, as it is almost impossible in such a pattern as the feather pattern, for instance, to keep the pattern correct in the narrowings. Of course where the open-work only requires 3 or 4 stitches to form the design, it may be done by doing away with a pattern alto- gether ; but there are few, if any, knitting designs suitable for stockings that take such a small number of stitches, as they would be inartistic and too open. The plan usually adopted, then, is one of the following : (i) 7S To leave a strip of plain knitting dowh each side of the seam-stitch which shall be suffi- cient to take in the narrowings ; or (2) To make the back half of the stocking plain; or (3) To make a strip of open knitting equal to about a 3rd of the width of the whole stocking down the front of the leg and foot ; or (4) To make a strip of openwork down the ankle and front of the foot. This latter plan is quite sufficient for ladies' stockings, as of course it shows prettily when wearing slippers. In any case, before be- ginning fancy-knitting in a stocking, you must arrange your seam-stitch, and also mark the centre stitch of the front of the foot, which will of course be the exact half from the seam, for instance, if you have 66 stitches on your stocking there will be your seam stitch ; then 32 stitches, and the centre stitch of the stocking will be the 33rd from the seam. The cerrtre stitch and the seam- stitch are of course exactly opposite one another. The centre, stitch of the stocking must be ]]recisely in the centre of the opemvorh pattern. For children's socks, merino or Andalusian wool, and numbe-r 15 or 16 needles look very pretty. As a little parting advice to anyone seeing the patterns and feeling tempted by their prettiness to begin a pair of stockings for the first time, we would say emphatically^ Don't. Do not attempt a fancy stocking until you can easily shape a plain one, as the attempt would most probably result in a failure, which would discourage you from all stocking knitting. On the contrary, if you first make a pair of plain socks or stockings so as to understand thoroughly how to nar- row the leg, make the heel, and shape the toe, you will find no difficulty whatever in putting a fancy stripe down the front half of the leg and foot. The work will be found interesting and pretty, and above all ex- tremely useful. Feather or Fan Pattern as a Stripe FOR Antimacassars, &c. The following arrangement of these pat- terns for an antimacassar or stripe is quite different to that for a stocking. Materials — cotton or wool and two needles of requisite size. Calculate 17 stitches for each pattern. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row^the ist row of pattern which is worked on the purl row *. Take 2 together *, repeat from * twice more ; wool forward, knit l; repeat from " wool forward" 4 times more (making 5 times with the 1st); now bring the wool forward again for the 6th time and * take 2 together ; repeat from * twice more. This just takes the 17 stitches. Repeat from the ist * to the end of the row. Begin again from the ist row. In a cotton antimacassar, a coarser sized cotton may be used for the pattern row, the intermediate rounds being finer. Spider Web as a Stripe. Materials — cotton or wool and two needles of a suitable size. Calculate 6 stitches for each pattern, and 3 plain ones at least for the beginning and end of each row. ist row — knit the 3 plain stitches, * wool forward, slip one, knit 2 together, and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 you knitted together; wool forward, knit 3, repeat from *, knit the 3 end stitches. 2ilfl row — purl. 3rd row — * wool forward, take 2 together; wool forward, take 2 together, knit 2 ; repeat from *. 4th row — purl. 5th row—* wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, slip one, take 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the two taken toge- ther; repeat from *. Never forget the 3 plain at the beginning and end of the rovj. 6th row — purl. 7th row— begin the pattern again as described in the ist row, and repeat to the 6th until your knitting is as long as re- quired. The plain stitches are necessary to keep the work even at the sides. KNITTED WINDOW CURTAINS. Roseleaf and Grecian Net Pattern. Materials : — Bone pins with knobs at the ends. No. 7, 8, or 9, according to the cotton you use. We should think No. 6, or even coarser, would be suitable, and you might even like coarser needles. It is always better to try a pattern or two before beginning the curtain. Cast on as many sets, of 27 stitches to a set, as you wish for your curtain, and 16 over. This gives you two plain stitches for the beginning and end of each row. The 12 are to allow of a stripe of the net to end the curtain, thus making both edges alike. Never forget to knit the plain stitches at the beginning and end ol the rows. They will not be mentioned again, and they must be done independently of any plain stitches mentioned in the pat- tern rows, and must be knitted as usual in the purl rows, ist row — * take two together, cotton forward twice, take 2 together, take 2 together, forward twice, take 2 together, take 2 together again, forward twice, take 2 together. You have now knitted 12 stitches, and should have 12 on the right hand needle. Now, cotton forward, knit i, slip i, knit I, pull the slip stitch over the knit one, purl i, take 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit i, slip i, knit I, and pull slip stitch over, purl i, take 2 together, knit i, cotton forward, and repeat from * to the end of the row. The row ends as it begins with a stripe of the Grecian net. Purl the back rows all through the curtain. Where you have brought for- ward twice you must knit the second half of the stitch, so as not to lose a stitch. You will see what is meant when you come to it. 3rd row — * knit 2, take 2 together, forward twice, take 2 together, take 2 together again, forward twice, take 2 together, knit 2. For- ward, knit I, forward, slip i, knit' i, pull the slip stitch over; purl 1, take 2 together, purl I, slip I, knit I, pull the slip stitch over the knitted one ; purl i, take 2 together, forward, knit I, forward. Repeat from *. 5th row — * take 2 together, forward twice, take 2 together, take 2 together again, forward twice, take 2 together, take 2 together again, forward twice, take 2 together. Forward, knit 3, forward, slip i, take 2 together, and pull the slip stitch over (you thus decrease 2 stitches), purl i, slip i, take 2 together, and pull the slip stitch over as before, forward, knit 3, forward. Repeat from *. 7th row — * knit 2, take 2 together, forward twice, take 2 together, take 2 together again, forward twice, take 2 together, knit 2. Forward, knit 5, forward, slip i, take 2 together, pul) the slip stitch over ; forward, knit 5, forward. Repeat from *. You will soon see how the pattern runs, and be able to tell if y ou are working right. It is always best when trying a new pattern to get some good-natured friend to read it aloud as you work it, until you have become accustomed to the pattern. These directions are absolutely correct, and are those from which the model has been worked. Border : Some people work the lace with the curtain, but it must be a very experienced knitter to do so ; and by far the best plan, and the one most usually adopted, is to make the lace separate, and sew it on carefully afterwards. You then can arrange the corners properly. THE FANCV WORK-BASKET. Double Coraline Pattern. Materials : — Same as those mentioned for roseleaf and Grecian pattern. Cast on as many sets of 35 stitches as you require. 1st row — purl. 2nd row — * knit 5, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together again, forward ; knit r, forward, knit 2, take 2 t( gether, knit 4, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together again, forward, knit r, forward, knit 2, take 2 tog.ther. Repeat from * to end of row. Purl all the back rows, not forgetting the two plain stitches at the ends. 4th row — * take 2 together, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 2, the second time, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together again, forward, knit 3, forward, knit 2, tike 2 together, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 2 again, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, knit 3, forward, knit 3, again. Repeat from * to end of row. 6th row—* take 2 together, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together again, for- ward, knit 5, forward, knit 2, take 2 together, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, knit 5, forward, knit 3. Repeat from *. 8th row — * take 2 together, knit 2, forward, knit 1, forward, and take two together twice, for- ward, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 4, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, knit i, forward and take 2 together twice (by that I always mean, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together), forward, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 5. Repeat from *. loth row — * knit 3, forward, knit 3, forward, take 2 together twice, forward, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 2, take 2 together, and knit 2 again, forward, knit 3, forward, take 2 together twice, for- ward, knit 2, take 2 together, knit 2, take 2 together. Repeat from *. 12th row — *knit 3, forward, knit 5, forward, take 2 together twice, forward, knit 2, take 2 together twice, (that means, take 2 together, take 2 together), knit 2, forward, knit 5, forward, take 2 together twice, forward, knit 2, take 2 together twice. Repeat from *. KNITTED LACE FOR CURTAINS, TOILET COVERS, LINEN, &C. Grape Pattern. The following pattern has been much and deservedly admired. According to the material and size of needle used the work is suitable for either of the purposes above named. For linen, use unbleached thread. No. 30 or 50, and No. 15, 16, or 17 needles. For toilet cover, use coarser thread or knit- ting cotton of suitable size, and No. 13 or 14 needles. For hangings you can use the same cotton or needles as for the rest of the ■work. It is a broad edge. Just at first it seems as if you never could remember all the different rows, but after you have done a few scallops, with the directions before you, you begin to s;e the principles on which the pattern is- worked, and the remembering comes quite sasily. Cast on 22 stitches. Knit a plain row on the 22 stitches, ist pattern row— knit 3, cotton forward twice, pud 2 together, knit 3, forward twice, hiit 2 together, knit 10, forward twice, purl 2 to- gether. 2nd row — forward twice, purl 2 to- gether, knit 13, purl i (this purl i is the half stitch), knit 3, forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 3. 3rd row— knit 3, forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 16, forward twice, purl 2 to- gether. 4th row — forward twice, purl 2 to- gether,knit 16, forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 3. 5th row — knit 3, forward twice, purl 77 2 together, knit 3, * forward twice, knit 2 together. Repeat from * once. Knit g, for- ward twice, purl 2 together. 6th row — forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 11, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 3, forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 3. [Be careful not to lose your half stitches where you bring for- ward twice and knit 2 together.] 7th row — knit 3, forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 18, forward twice, purl 2 together. Sth row — forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 18, for- ward twice, purl 2 together, knit 3. 9th row — knit 3, forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 3, * forward twice, knit 2 together, and repeat from* twice more, thus makingyou threelarge holes. Knit 9, forward twice, purl 2 to- gether. 10th row — forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 11, purl i,knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I again. This should finish your three holes ; then knit 3, forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 3. nth row — knit 3, forward twice, purl .2 together, knit 21, forward twice, purl 2 together. 12th row — forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 21, forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 3. 13th row— knit 3, forward twice, hiit 2 together, and repeat from * 3 times more, giving you 4 holes alto- gether. Knit 10, forward twice, purl 2 to- gether. 14th row — forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 12, purl r, *knit 2, purli. Re- peat from * twice more. This works off all 4 holes, and now knit 3, forward twice, purl 2together, knit 3. 15th row — knit 3, for- ward twice, purl 2 together, knit 1 5. Then, to make the shell, proceed thus : — keep the ne,\t stitch on the left hand needle, and, with the point of the right-hand needle, lift the ne.xt stitch to that over it. Go on lifting one stitch after another over the single stitch which we told you to keep on the needle until you have lifted 10 over the one stitch icithout knitting any of them. It is like casting off 10 stitches over i. Then bring cotton forward twice, purl 2 together. This finishes the 15th row. i6th row — cotton forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 15^ cotton forward twice, purl 2 together, knit 3. Begin again with the first row of the pattern. Bringing the cotton forward twice at the beginning of the rows where it is directed, gives a pretty loop at the edge of the lace, and you slip the last loop off the needle every return row- without knitting It, as you will no doubt have noticed. Lattice Edging. This pretty lace is medium width when worked in thread, and nice for children's garments. Use any size thread and steel needles that you like to work with. No. 30 unbleached thread, and No. 15 or 16 needles are very pleasant to use. Cast on 1 1 stitches. 1st row — knit the row plain, knit- ting the first stitch instead of slipping it. Every alternate row like the first row. 2nd row — knit 3 plain,* forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from * 3 times more. This gives you 4 holes. 4th row — knit 4 plain, f * for- ward, knit 2 together ; repeat from * twice more, forward, knit i. This gives you 4 holes as before.f 6th row — knit 5 plain, repeat from t to t in the fourth row. Sth row — knit 6 plain, repeat from t to t in the fourth row. loth row — knit 7 plain, finish like the fourth row as before. 12th row — knit 8 plain, finish as before like fourth row. 13th row — knit 9 plain, finish as before like fourth row. 14th row — knit 10 plain, finish as before like fourth row. Novi? knit 2 plain rows, then cast off till you have 1 1 stitches left on your r-c-edle. Repeat from the second row until you have- a sufficient length for your purpose. Either of the above edgings done in Shetland or Andalusian wool would trim a flannel petticoat or dressing jacket. Use coarser needles for wool than for thread or fine cotton. HANDSOME SHAWL PATTERN.S. Fine Shetland Shawt,. Materials : — Nearly 2 ounces finest Shet land or Pyrenees wool. Size : — 300 stitches, or what is called a " 1 5 score square.'' 40 scallops long and 3 score stitches added after "taking up" in the ist row. Lace: — The Queen's lace. Patterns. Border: — 2 30- stitched diamonds, the one above the other, with lace-holes in the centre of them, and 7 lace holes exactly in the middle of the plain knitting between the diamonds. 10 diamonds across the width of the work. This lace and these diamonds are carried up on both sides of the middle, and then made on the top after the middle is finished ; so that it is all made on the square principle, without any sewing in it. Middle : — This middle is made in the Strawberr)- pattern. Size of needles: — No. 16 steel knitting needles. The above description would be quite sufficient for ladies acquainted with knitting these shawls. We would not ad\-ise those who are not acquainted to attempt a shawl until they have fully mastered the patterns they intend to make in it. There- fore we will give tlie patterns in detail for their benefit, and then they can arrange the shawl as above. Queen's Lace. Cast on 24 stitches to begin with, knit i plain row. ist row — that is, first pattern — draw off the ist stitch unknitted as if you were going to purl it, then put the wool back, knit 2, make i, take 2 together *, knit 8, make i, 2 together twice, make 2, 2 together, knit I, make i, 2 together twice. 2nd row — make i, knit 3, make i, 2 together, knit i. purl I, knit 3, make i, 2 together, knit 7, make i, 2 together, knit 2. 3rd row — repeat the Ist row to *, knit 5, 2 together, make i, knit I, 2 together, make 2, 2 together twice, make i, knit 5, the last cast included that was made at the beginning of the 2Rd row by "make l" first. 4th row — make I, knit 6, make i, 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 3, make I, 2 together, knit 5, make i, 2 together, knit 2. 5th row— repeat the 1st row to *, knit 3, 2 together, make I, knit l, 2 together, make 2, 2 together twice, make I, knit 8. 6th low — make i, knit 9, make I, 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 3, make i, 2 together, knit 3, make i, 2 together, knit 2. 7th row — repeat the ist row to *, knit I, 2 together, make i, knit i, 2 together, make 2, 2 together twice, make I, knit 2 (2 together, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. make^ twice more, knit 3. 8th row — make 1, knit 9, 2 together, make i, knit 4, purl i, 2 together, make i, knit 4, make i, 2 together, knit 2. 9th row — repeat the ist row to *, knit 4, make i, 2 together twice, make 2, 2 together, knit i, make i, 2 together, knit 5, 3 together, knit i. 10th row— malce i,knit i, 2 together, knit 3, 2 together, make I, knit 4, purl I, 2 together, make i, knit 6, make i, 2 together, knit 2. nth row— repeat the ist to *, knit 6, make I, 2 together twice, make 2, 2 together, knit i, make I, 2 together, knit 2, 2 together, knit I. 12th row — make i,knit I, 2 together twice, make I, knit 4, purl I, 2 together, make I, knit 8, make I, 2 together, knit 2. 13th row— repeat the 1st row to *, knit 8, make i, 2 together twice, make 2, 2 together, knit I, make I, 3 together, knit I. Begin at the 2nd pattern row again and con- tinue these rows until you have got 40 scallops. Now take up all the stitches along the even side of your lace ; there should be 240 besides those belonging to the ends of the lace. Full round the corners of the lace 4 or 5 rows first (then knit 4, make l) repeat to the end of the 240 stitches. Ne.xt row you should have 300 stitches. Knit 3 plain rows more, then set the lace hole diamonds, or it would be much easier to set the strawberry at once and quite as pretty. Strawberry Pattern. 1st row — there should be 2 stitches allowed for each edge besides those named in the pattern. Knit 4 (that is 6) * make I, 2 to- gether, make I, 2 together, make I, 2 together, knit 4, repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row is plain and every succeeding alter- nate one. 3rd row — knit 2, * 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, knit I, make I, 2 together, make I, 2 together, knit I, repeat from *. 5th row— knit I, 2 together, * make I, 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, 2 to- gether, make I, 3 together, repeat from * to the end of the row. 7 th row— 2 together, * make l, 2 together, make l, knit 5, make i, 2 together, make i, 3 together, repeat from* to the end of the row. 9th row — knit 2,* make I, 2 together, make i, 2 together, knit i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, knit i, repeat from* to the end of the row. nth row— knit 3, * make l, 2 together, make I, 3 together, make I, 2 together, make I, knit I, repeat from * to the end of the row. 13th row — knit 4, make I, 2 together, make I, 3 together, make i, knit 5, repeat from * to the end of the row. 15th row — repeat the 3rd row again, and so on until your shawl when pulled is as long as wide. If you cannot knit the lace up along the side as you go, in the way it is done in this shawl, knit it by itself and sew it on afterwards. Pheasant's Eye Pattern for Shawl. Shetland wool. Knitting needles No. 9. Cast on as many stitches as are required for the width of the shawl, allowing 10 stitches for each pattern, and 10 extra for edge stitches. Knit 10 plain rows, ist pattern row— knit 5, * knit i, make i, knit 2, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2, make I, repejt from* knit 5 at the end of the row. 2nd row — knit 5, * make i, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl i, purl 2 together, purl 2, make I, purl I, repeat from *, knit 5 at the end of the row. 3rd row — same as the first row. 4th row — same as the second row. 5th row — knit 5, * knit i, m.ake i, knit 2, slip i,knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 5, repeat from *, knit 5 at the end of the row. 6th row — knit 5, purl to within 5 stitches of the end, and knit those. ?8 7th row— knit 5, * knit I, knit 2 together, knit 2, make I, knit i, make i, knit 2, slip i, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat from *, knit 5 at the end of the row. 8th row — knit 5, * purl 2 together, purl 2, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl I, repeat from *, knit 5 at the end of the row. 9th row — same as the seventh row. loth row — same as the eighth row. nth row — knits, * knit 5, make l, knit 3, slip l, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat from *, knit 5 at the end of the row. 12th row — knit 5, purl to within 5 stitches of the end, and knit those. Repeat from the first row till the shawl is long enough, then knit 10 plain rows, and cast off. Tansy Pattern. Shetland wool. Knitting needles No. 9. Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by 11, with 4 extra stitches on each side of the work, which are to be knitted plain at the beginning and the end of every row, over, and above the stitches given for the working of the fancy pattern. Knit 4 plain rows, ist pattern row — knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 4, make I, and repeat. 2nd row— purl I, make I, purl 3, purl 2 together, purl 2 together, purl 3, make I, and repeat. 3rd row — knit I, make I, knit 2, knit 2 together, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, make I, knit 2, 4th row — purl 3, make I, purl I, purl 2 to- gether, purl 2 together, purl I, make I, purl 2. 5th row— knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, make I, knit 4. 6th row — purl 3, make I, purl I, purl 2 together, purl I, make I, purl 2, purl 2 together. 7th row — slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit i, make I, knit 5, make l, knit 1, knit 2 together. 8th row- purl 2 together, make i, purl 7, make I, purl 2 together. Repeat from the first pattern row till the shawl is as long as required, then knit 4 plain rows, and cast off. Coral Pattern. Shetland wool. Knitting needles No. 9. Cast on as many stitches as are required for the width of the shawl, aUowing 6 stitches for each pattern, also I additional stitch to keep the pattern straig^it, and 4 extra for edge stitches. Knit 4 plain rows. _ Ist pattern row — knit 5, * make I, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4 ; repeat from *. 2nd row — knit 2, purl all along, and knit the last 2 stitches. 3rd row— knit 3, * knit 2 together, make I, knit I, make I, slip 1, knit I, pass the shpped stitch over, knit I; repeat from * ; there will be 3 to knit at the end of the row. 4th row — knit 2, purl all along, and knit the last two stitches. 5th row — knit 2, knit 2 together, * make I, knit 3, make i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over ; repeat from * till you get 4 stitches from the end of the row, then make I, knit 2 together, kr»it 2. 6th row — knit 2, purl all along, and knit the last 2 stitches. Repeat from the first row till the shawl is sufficiently long, then knit 4 plain rows, and cast off. Pretty Lace Border for the above Shawls. Cast on 19 stitches. 1st row — slip I, knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, knit I, make 2, and knit 2 together 6 times, knit I. 2nd row — shp I, knit 2, purl I, and knit 2 5 times, purl I, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit I. 3rd row — slip I, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 20. 4th row — cast off 6, knit 15, make i, knit 2 together, knit I. Repeat from the first row for the length required, and sew it on, fulling it in nicely round the corners. COMFORTABLE SLEEPING WRAP. The above wrap is most comfortable for winter wear or for chilly evenings, either in ot out of doors. In construction it is simplicity itself, being something after the manner of a nightingale. Materials : — Fingering wool and No. 8 pins. Cast on from 120 to 140 stitches. Knit plainly backward and forward for I yard. Now cast off about 24 or 30 stitches at the beginnmg of the next row. Knit the rest of the row as usual. In the next row, cast on at the end of the row the same number of stitches which you cast off in the previous row. Now knit on plainly for another yard. Cast off. The neck is formed by turning down the flap, made in the middle of the knitting, to form a collar. Add strings to tie at the neck, and another pair about 9 inches below the first pair. A nice little scallop can be worked round the collar, which should just reach to the strings at the neck. Make the scallop on the right side of the collar of the nightingale. A scallop can also be carried round the remainder of the work, being careful to have it at the right side of the work. The sleeves can be formed in two ways : ist, you can just fold the outside corners of the work back, and crochet a small scallop round the cuff just made, adding a button and loop to fasten at the wrist. 2ndly, you can just fold the front edge of your work in for about a J of a yard, as if you were folding it up to put it away, and fasten the piece so folded in with a small bow at each end of the work. Simple sewing or tying with a piece of wool will answer instead of the ribbon. The first plan, of making cuffs at whichever corner is found convenient, would probably enable you to keep the garment closer round you. It is better to do the scallops after you have arranged the cuffs and collar as far as the turning down, and then you can make no mistake as to which side your scallop should be worked upon. The nightingale should be about the width of ordinary flannel, so that will be a little guide as to the number of stitches. Many little varieties in the way of colour can be used if the wrap is not wanted solely for bedroom use. White and scarlet fingering washes very well, or all white or all grey is very pretty. PRETTY RUFFLE. Materials. — Double Berlin white wool. You must also have a small quantity of merino wool of either pale blue or pink. Use coarse pins with a knob at the end. No 2 will do, but if you work tightly, use No. I. Cast on with the fine wool 36 stitches. First row — knit back plain knitting. 2nd row — ^join the white double Berlin, and knit plain to the end of the row. 3rd row — knit back. You have now a rib of the white Berlin wool. 4th row— take the pale blue fine wool and knit the 4th and 5th rows of that. 6th and 7th rows— in the white double Berlin. 8th and 9th rows— in the pale blue, and so on. This arrangement brings all the joins to one side. Knit in the two kinds of wool till you have a piece which will stretch comfortably round the neck. Gather the ends and add a pair of strings. This clings very closely to the neck. In subdued colours it is very comfortable for night wear for ladies in the cold weather. LADY'S PLAIN CUFFS. Materials : — One ounce of single Berlin wool, 4id. or 6d., and No. 15 pins. Either black, navy blue, crimson or grey look well for the colour. For a good-sized cuff cast on I 60 stitches, that will be twenty on each of THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. three needles, ist round — Knit i plain, i purl, I plain, l purl, repeat. Every round is like the first round. Proceed thus:— Knitting I plain, I purl, till you have knitted up half an ounce of Berlin wool, or until your cuff" is long enough. Cast off. Do the other cuff" in the same way, and the pair is complete. These cuffs fit so nicely that you can often wear them under a white cuff in the very cold weather. For a smaller sized lady cast on J 6 stitches on each needle. These simple cuffs are more worn than almost any other kind, and can be varied in multitudes of ways. They can be made any size, but if you have a much less number of stitches than 48, it is better to work them on 2 needles and sew them up afterwards. GOOD HEARTH RUG. The following hearth rug is quite easy to make, and can be done in small pieces and afterwards sewn together. Materials : — A nice piece of harden or sacking, the size required, coarse steel needles, No. 10 or 12 (you can use bone if you prefer), and any odd scraps of wool, or a selection of bought wool, in which the colours go well together. Blacks, greys, fawns, browns, and scarlets work up well ; it is best if you have a pattern, to get your wool so as to carry out the design best. For instance : — a grey border, a black stripe within that, then a grey or brown ground for the centre, and a diamond or other design of coloured wool for the ver>' middle of the rug with the light wool round inside the black stripe. To proceed — take your coarse needles, and set up about 16 stitches so as to make a strip about 2 inches wide or a little wider. You can do it in any colour, no matter what. Knit on to the end of your wool, and then cast oft" in this way. Drop the first 5 stitches, cast off" the middle 6 stitches, and drop the last 5 stitches. Now damp your wool, and then dry briskly, or press with an iron. You then unravel the stitches on each side, all down the strip. Go on in this way knitting up your wool until you are tired of knitting, and then begin to sew the strips on to the sack- ing foundation. Mark on your sacking with a coarse pencil, or tacking threads, where the different portions of the design begin and end before beginning to sew. You sew the strips of work in the middle so that the knitted part forms a foundation to sew with, and make them very firm on the sacking down the middle of each piece. Sew the strips about half an inch apart so that the ravelled sides fall close together and make a fluff'y pile on the rug, like a carpet or Turkey rug. Many people prefer to knit all the wool up first, and then damp and dry all together, and then ravel all the sides out at as near the same time as possible, so that the pieces may be all equally fluffy to start with, and this is a good plan if you do not get tired of doing one thing for so long. In case of an invalid, it would be well for a stronger person to do the sewing and give a little help so that the work did not become weary. If necessary, or you prefer it, you can cut the strips of knitting into small pieces about 2 inches long or less. When sewing such small pieces always be careful to fasten the ends where you cut the work, firmly to the foundation sacking. In sewing you can lay each piece open and then sew down the middle, being careful about the ends, or you can fold each piece and sew through the middle of it double if you think best. Where you want to use up scraps of wool, make a grey or black border if you have wool, and then fill up the 79 rest of the wool with small pieces about an inch or two long, put in haphazard, so as to give an Oriental appearance to the centre of the rug. These variegated rugs are as pretty as any. For those who prefer such a class of design, animals, trees, and geometrical designs can be carried out by tracing the design on the sacking first, and then filling up the various parts with the right coloured wools, and could be arranged very well with care. HANDSOME CARRIAGE RUG. Materials : Double berlin, or fleecy wool, or even a coarser sort of fleecy than the ordinary if you wish it very heavy ; 3 needles. No. 3 or 4 or coarser. The model was in the common twist pattern, in alternate stripes of pale blue and fawn, but that is a little light for out-of-door use in smoky dear old England. Garnet and old gold, blue and brown, olive green and ruby, and maize for joining the stripes would look well. For the twist : cast on 26 stitches, ist row — plain. 2nd row — knit 7, purl 12, knit 7. Repeat the ist and 2nd rows for 16 rows. 17th row — knit 7, now slip the next 6ontothe 3rd needle, knit the next 6 stitches, then the 6 you slipped on to the 3rd needle, knit the last 7, This forms the twist. Repeat from the 2nd to the 17th row, as often as needed for the length of the rug. Crochet or sew the stripes together, and scallop or fringe the ends and sides. The model was about 2 yards long and ij yards wide at least. KNITTED MAT. Materials : — double Berlin wool in two shades, an ounce of each shade. No. 8 pins, or No. 7 will do. These mats are very elegant for the mantle-piece or drawing-room table. The centre and border are knitted in one piece. Cast on iS stitches. 1st row — work four sets of brioche stitch — i.e., you must bring the wool forward, slip I and take 2 to- gether 4 times. That leaves you 6 stitches on the left-hand needle. These 6 stitches are for the border. To make the border — put the needle into the first stitch, but before you knit it, wrap the wool twice round two fingers and the needle and bring the wool over the needle a third time ; now knit the stitch off in the usual way. Proceed in the same manner with the remaining 5 stitches. When these are done you have on the needle 6 sets of loops and 4 sets of brioche . As this mat is counted in sets of^rioche, you must be juite sure you understand what a set is ; to make perfectly plain I will repeat that : — wool forward, slip a stitch, take 2 together, \saset. 2nd row of the mat — knit plainly the 6 stitches of loops, and in doing this be certain to knit all the three strands which you will find to each loop. For the centre knit only 3 sets of brioche. 3rd row— do the 3 sets of brioche, then make your loops as directed for the 6 stitches of the first row. 4th row — knit off the loops as you did in the 2nd row, but in this row you only do 2 sets of brioche. 5th row — do the 2 sets of brioche, and make the loops as before. 5th row — knit off" the loops and only knit one set of brioche. 7th row — do the one set of brioche, and make the loops as directed in the pre- vious rows. You have now finished one sec- tion of the mat, and you will observe that by ha\'ing left a set of brioche every alternate row, it gi\'es the circular form to the centre of the mat. In doing the eighth row you must join on the other shade where it will not be observed, and in this row you do all four sets of brioche, and for easier counting .pent. you may consider this the foundation of a new section equivalent to the casting on of the stitches in the first one. You now start again with the first row, working back the four sets of brioche, then making the loops as before. In working the centre, do not for- get to work a set less of brioche every alter- nate row, till all the three sets are left, and then you begin with your former shade. These mats are very quickly done, and the direc- tions here given are for a large size ; but if you wish a less size for the side vases of a mantle-piece, cast on 9 for the centre and 4 stitches only for the border. KNITTED FROCK FOR BABY. 9 TO 18 Months. This exquisite little dress would form a very suitable present if worked in the colours in which the model was made, viz., white and rose-pink. Other colours can be chosen to taste, or a more serviceable frock would look well in cardmal or navy blue. Materials required : — 6 ozs. of single white Berlin and 2 ozs. rose-pink. Bone needles No. 5. Cast on 212 stitches in coloured wool. Knit 4 plain rows. 1st row — white wool, knit 2 *, woo! forward, knit 3, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted I, knit 3, wool forward, knit I, repeat from *. 2nd row — purl, repeat these 2 rows 8 times, this makes 1 flounce ; knit as many flounces as you require the length of the frock. About 6 is the number in the model. For the band : — ist row— knit I, knit 2 together to end of row. 2nd row — knit plain. 3rd row — knit 3, knit 2 together, repeat to end of row. 4th row — knit plain. 5th row — knit 2, wool forward, knit 2 together, * knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, repeat *. 6th row —knit plain. You will now have 112 stitches for the body ; knit with white wool like the skirt, knit 12 rows, then take off" 30 stitches and work these up to the top of armhole, leave them on the right-hand needle and knit 52. For the front the same number of rows ; leave these also on your needle, and knit the remaining 30 stitches just the same, then knit all together again in plain and fancy rows for 6 or S rows, cast off. For sleeves : — Cast on 52 stitches in coloured wool, knit 4 plain roAvs, then 12 rows in white wool, bind off" and sew in. Crochet a pretty edging round neck, through which run ribbon to tie. Push the wool back on right hand side in 3 places for button-holes, and sew on pearl buttons on left side, laying a piece of ribbon on wrong side of bodice to keep them firm. Add a bow of creme or pink Ottoman ribbon on each shoulder, and ^ sash of the same, wider, to tie round waist. THE FANCY VVORIC-BASKET. LADY'S VEST. Merino or angola and No. 8 or 9 pins. Cast on 70 stitches, do plain knitting for half a yard. This forms the back. For the front cast on 42 stitches and knit for half a yard. Do the second front in the same manner, but casting on 6 more stitches to turn in for button-holes. If you donot think it looks wide enough, increase in the centre of the knitting when you have done a cjuarter of a yard, so as to leave it broader across the bust. For the hip gusset, cast on 32 stitches. Knit i plain row. 2nd and every succeeding row — take 2 together at the end of the row till you have only i stitch. Cast off. You will need 2 hip gussets and 2 for the sleeves. For the sleeve gussets, cast on 28 or 30 stitches. Knit 1 plain row. Decrease at the end of every succeeding row until you have I stitch left. For the shoulder straps cast on 20 stitches. Knit plain for 4.^ inches. Cast off. Do the second shoulder in the same way. To sew together, first sew on the shoulder straps, then the hip gusset to one side of the back, placing the side of the gus- set to the back, the narrow point towards the top. Then fix the front to the opposite edge of the gusset. Sew up the side of the vest until you think it time to place the sleeve gusset. You place tlie sleeve gusset so that the wide edge forms part of the sleeve, the point towards the bottom or pointing down- ward. Fix one side of the gusset, then the other. When you have sewn up one side of the vest quite firmly and to fit, do the other side to match. Be very careful not to drag your stitches or pull them too tight. Put silk or flannel binding underneath the buttons to strengthen the knitting. The button- holes can be made by pulling the wool on one side, and sewing the hole thus made over with wool, or you can make them in the knitting. If you wish to make them in the knitting, the following plan will serve : * Bring the wool forward and take the 3rd and 4th from the beginning of the row toge- ther, also throw over again and take the i Ith and 1 2th together. This makes 2 holes in i row. Repeat from * every 12th or i6th row, according to the distance you wish between the button-holes. When the vest is ready to make up, fold the edge of the knitting under- neath, until you bring o^e hole exactly under the other. Hem the edge down in this posi- tion, and give each button-hole a stitch or two to hold the 2 holes together. They will be found to be strong. Crochet an edge round the neck and sleeves. Rows of I treble, i chain, miss a loop, repeated until the sleeve is deep enough to form a good sleeve, 'fwo rows of the s.une for tiie neck, edged with a small scallop as a finish. 4 or 5 lows will make a very fair sleeve. Finish with a scallop to match the neck. A pretty and simple scallop is made as follows : — Double crochet into a hole. * i cliain, 3 treble into the next hole but one to that in which you put the double crochet, i chain, i double crochet in the next hole but one to that into which you put the 3 treble. Repeat from *. The border looks very pretty ifdoneinpink or a good washing blue. If preferred, you need not have it buttoned up the middle. Do 80 stitches in one piece ti'l you ha^•e done 14 inches. Then either slip 40 stitches on to very thick wool, or take a third needle and work backward and forward on 40 stitches until you have completed the half yard. Finish the other 40 in the same way. In this case you must carry the edging of the neck down the opening of the front. In any case run a string through the holes in the neck 80 to draw it up, and be sure to increase for the bust if you require it. These vests are, however, so elastic that they fit most ladies just knitted plainly. When you have chosen your wool, knit a small piece as a trial, about 2 or 3 inches square. You can then judge whether the size is likely to be right for you, also if the fineness or otherwise of the knit- ting pleases you. You can tell easily about the size. For instance, if 3 inches in width of your knitting has iS stitches in in, 12 inches would have 4 times 18, which would be 72 stitches ; so that you can soon calcu- late the probable width of your vest when done. As to the quantity of wool, it rather depends upon the wool you choose ; inquire at the shop. Probably about 6 ounces would be sufficient in merino. It is well to have a little over to malie the gussets, and it must be remembered that poor wools do not go nearly so far as the best makes. Eider yarn in white is a very good wool, but too thick. Try a I piece, as said before, when the wool is ' chosen, and exercise a little judgment as to I whether you will follow the directions impli- citly. If you alter the number of stitches in the body of the vest you must increase or decrease a stitch or two in the gussets so as to correspond. The shoulders, too, must be considered. As it is plain knitting all through, the arranging of the wool and num- ber of stitches is all that needs the slightest consideration. VEST FOR YOUNG OR SLENDER LADY. Materials : — No. 8 pins, and about 5 ozs. of white bee-hive fingering. Cast on 104 stitches loosely; knit 10 plain rows. ilth row — knit loplain, * 3 plain, 3 purl. Repeat from * until you have 14 left, knit those 10 stitches plain. You will have 14 sets of 3 plain, 3 purl. Repeat the nth row 7 times. This brings you to the 19th row. 19th row — 10 plain, * 3 purl, 3 plain. Repeat from * till you have 10 stitches. Knit those 10 plain. Repeat the 19th row 7 times, and you will then have completed the 26th row. Begin again with the nth row. When you can count 18 sets of oblongs in length from the beginning of your work, do the next row thus : Knit 10 plain, "* 3 plain, 3 purl. Repeat from * till you have come to within 10 of the end. Knit those 10 plain. Repeat the last row until you have done 2 inches in depth. Next row— slip 20 on to a piece of wool, cast off 64 moderately tightly, there are now 20 stitches left. Work on those 20 stitches until you have done 4 inches. Now slip that 20 on wool, and work on the other 20 for 4 inches. Now cast on 64, then pickup the 20 which are on the wool. There are now 104 stitches on your pin again. 1st row — knit 10 plain, * 3 plain, 3 purl, and repeat from * till you have only 10 stitches. Knit them plain as before. Repeat the 1st row until you have worked 2 inches in depth to match the 2 inches on the other side. Now begin with the nth row, and work on until you have iS oblongs as before, when you did the first side. When these are finished, knit 10 plain rows. Cast off very loosely, sew up the sides, and if liked crochet an edge round the armholes and sleeves. CHILD'S VEST, For 7 Years. Materials required : — White peacock wool, three ounces. Needles, No. 13. Cast on 70 stitches, knit all plain, except last stitch in each row, which should be purled, and the first stitch slipped. Knit 20 rows straight. For shoulder take tw'o together at the beginning of every other row for si.x times. Knit 20 straight rows ; increase one at the beginning of every other row for six times. This forms the neck. Knit the shoulder as before. This completes one half of vest. Sew together the sides and shoulders, leaving room for sleeves. Crochet holes round the neck, make a chain, and run it in. Sleeve, cast on 24 stitches, knit 48 rows ; crochet gusset of holes for under arm. fr- KNITTED VEST For Six Months. Cast on with best white merino wool on needles No. 1 1 (standard gauge) 78 stitches. Rib 2 and 2 for 5 rows. 6th row — knit 2 together twice, * make a stitch by throwing wool round needle, knit i plain, lepeat from * three times more, then knit 2 together twice, knit I plain, repeat from beginning of row. 7th row — purl. Sth and 9th rows — same as 6th and 7th rows. loth row — same as 6th row, then rib 2 and 2 for 5 rows. i6th row — knit plain. I7tli row — ** knit * 2 stitches plain, I stitch purl, 3 stitches plain, repeat from * to end of row. i8th row — knit plain where you purled last row, and purl where you knit plain. 19th row — * knit I plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * to end of row. 20th row — same as iSth row. 21st row — * 5 purl, I plain, repeat from * to end of row. 22nd row — same as l8ih row. 23rd row- same as 19th row. 24th row— same as i8th row. Repeat from ** 10 times more ; there should be 102 rows from beginning. 103rd row — same as 17th row. 104th row — same as I Sth row. Cast off all but 12 stitches (for shoulder), which knit for 48 rows in same pattern as vest, then cast off. Knit a second piece the same for second half of vest. For sleeve : Cast on 52 stitches and knit first 10 rows same as first 10 rows of vest, nth row — purl. 1 2 th and 13th rows — same as 6th and 7th rows. 14th and 15th rows — same as 6th and 7th rows. Cast off, and pick up 12 stitches down side, of sleeve, for the gusset. 1st row of gusset—* knit i plain, purl i, repeat from *. 2nd row of gusset — same as 1 8th row of vest. Repeat these 2 rows 7 times more. Cast off. Knit second sleeve the same, then sew into shape, and then sew into vest, first sewing up the 2 pieces the length required, ancl also the shoulders. Finish off with 2 rows of crochet, round the I'HE FANCY WORK-BAbKET. top and shoulders of vest thus, with a fine bone crochet hook : i treble into a cast off stitch of the knitting, 2 chain, miss 2 knitting stitches, and repeat all round. 2nd row of edge — * i treble in one of tlie loops of 2 chain, 4 chain, i double into 1st of the 4 chain, repeat from *, then i treble, i double into next loop of 2 chain, repeat from begin- ning of row, and worlc all round. Materials required for veit : — 2i- skeins of wool, 2 bone knitting needles. No. II, and a fine crochet (bone) needle ; i yard of white soft ribbon i-inch wide. CHEST PROTECTOR, For Child of i Year. Materials required : 2 oz. of German wool, two knitting needles No. 13, 3 yards of narrow ribbon and 4 buttons. Cast on 1 14 stitches. Knit 6 rows plain, always slipping the first stitch. 7th row— slip the first stitch (make I and knit 2 together to the end) ; knit four rows plain. 12th row- slip i, knit 14, increase a stitch thus — knit the next stiich, but before taking it off the left pin put the right pin into the back of the same stitch, and knit a stitch, taking it off the pin — knit 13, increase as before, knit 26, knit 3 together, by slipping a stitch, knitting 2 together, and turning the slipped stitch over; knit 26, increase as before, knit 13, increase,knit 15. 13th row— plain. 14th row — slip I, knit 15, increase, knit 13, increase, knit 26, knit 3 together, knit 26, increase, knit 13, increase, knit 15. 15th rov — plain; repeat the last two rows 16 times more, knitting one stitch more at the begin- ning and end of the rows each repeat. The 3 stitches knitted together should always be worked over those of the preceding row ; there will now be 151 stitches on the pin. 4Sth row — slip one, knit 35, cast off 5 stitches for the armhole, knit 6, including the one on the right pin, increase,knit 26, knit 3 together, knit 26, increase, knit 1 1, turn back, leaving the36stitchesonthepin for the back. Cast oft 5 stitches to form the other armhole, and for the 49th row — knit 2 together, knit the rest to within 2 stitches of the end, then knit them together. 50th row — knit 2 together, knit 3, increase, knit 26, knit 3 together, knit 26, increase, knit 3, knit 2 together. 51st row — as the 49th. 52nd row — slip i, knit 2, increase, knit 26, knit 3 together, knit 26, j increase, knit 3. 53rd row — plain. Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. To form the shoulder slip I, increase, knit 19, knit 2 together, knit i (leaving the remainder of I the front stitches to form the other shoulder). Next row plain. Knit these 2 rows 16 limes ! more and then cast off. Now for the next j shoulder, cast off 17 stitches to form the 1 front part of the neck, slip i, knit 2 together, knit 19, increase, knit i ; next row plain. Knit the 2 last rows 16 limes more and then cast off. You now have the two front parts of the shoulders. Now to finish the back begin 81 the half nearest the last shoulder you knit- ! ted and knit the 36 stitches plain ; next row the same, and continue these 2 rows 9 times more. 21st row — slip the ist stitch, knit 2 together, knit the remainder of the needle plain. 22nd row — plain. Knit the last 2 rows ' 12 times more and then cast off. For the [ next half of the back knit in the same way' with this exception, instead of decreasing at the beginning of the needle decrease at Ihe end in this way; knit the whole of the stitches to within 3 of the end then, knit 2 togeiher, knit I plain; now sew up the shoulders with a Berlin needle and piece of the wool, and to form the scallop take bone crochet- hook, and at the neck crochet 3 chain and 1 double into every third stitch to form holes for the ribbon to run through (of course you have formed the holes in the knitting for the ribbon at the bottom), and then crochet (beginning at the bottom corner nearest the 1 side for the buttons) i double into a stitch, I 2 treble into each of the next 2 stitches, i l ' double into the next, and so on until you I come to the neck, when you put l double t into a hole formed by the chain, 4 treble into the next hole and l double and so on to the end of the neck when you finish off. Make loops on the inside for the buttons to fasten in and sew on the buttons to corres- pond, and run the ribbon in the holes made for it. The model that this little vest was taken from was done in ruby coloured \\ool, but grey and pink look very pretty. cast off the front. For the back— measure in the same way as you measured for the front, to get the right number of stitches. Decrease at the hips a little as before, and also slightly near the edge, which will <^» up the centre of the back and increase under the arm when needed. .Make the buttonholes on the right side. To make the buttonholes. * knit 4, wool forward, take 2 together, finish the row in ihe usual manner. Knit i.i inches in depth without a buttonhole, then repeat from * being careful always to put them on the proper side, and by no chance to let them be made inadvertently under the arm. If you wish a stronger buttonhole, there is a very good one detailed in the directions for a lady's \est in present issue. As a jersey is for pretty good wear as a rule, the double button- liole would be best. If it is adopted, a few extra stitches — about eight — should be cast on for the buttonhole side, so as to allow for the hem. Do ihe second side of the back in ihe same manner as the first, of course without the buttonholes ; and be careful not 10 make both backs for the same side. When finished, sew silk or tape under, for the buttons to be sewn over for strength, and then sew the front and backs together. Now pick up the stitches round the neck, and knit ': I plain, I purl alternately, backwards and forwards, until you have a band an inch in depth, or deeper to taste. For ihe sleeve — the follovving is a simple plan. Find out the number of stitches to go round the aimhole. Cast on that number on 4 needles or 2 if you prefer. These instructions are for 4, but it makes very little difl'erence. Knit round and round, decreasing at longer or shorter intervals as ofien as seems necessary till the sleeve is therightwidth. Now knit on until the sleeve is 4 inches short of its entire length ; knit the remaining 4 inches i plain, i purl alternately. It makes a cuff to match the collar. Do the second sleeve in the same way and the jersey is complete. This is the usual plan for making jersey sleeves, but the following would be much better, and very little more troulile. KNITTED JERSEY This jersey will be easiest to knit in 3 parts viz. —front, and 2 backs. Procure a good pattern from Mrs. Leach and fit to the figure closely, joining it up the front, and having" the button-holes up the back. Let the armhole be comfortable without being too large. Having fitted the pattern, find out the number of stitches you should set on. The plan adopted in the directions for "Lady's Vest" is very good. Across the bottom of the front — knit a plain row and a purl row alternately, until it is time to decrease at the hips, and up towards the breast pleats. When the waist is reached in- crease again at the proper places, for the slope under the arm and the breast pleats, and remember to take each decreasing nearer the centre of the front till you get to the waist line, and then take each increasing further away from it to get the proper curve of the pleats. Now make the armhole and shoulder and when you have finished the shoulder slope, LADIES'~SAiTARY TOWELS. Mrs. Lrach can supply her Subscribers with S.luitary 1 Towels at 2s. ."id. per doTcu post fi-ee, packed securely j in plain wrappers. Address, Iilrs. Clara Lrach, 37, I New Kent Ro;id, London. These .articles arc really con- ducive to health and comfort, and highly recommended to Ladies and yoinig Ladies in place of Diapers. A moment's reference to the diagram will explain what is meant. By beginning at die top of the sleeve with a small number of stiiches, — say 24 — andincreasingevery row or eveiyalter- nate row or so until you get to the widest pait, you shape the top of the slee\-e comfortably to the arm. As soon as the widest part is reached, decrease as before directed until the sleeves are the right width, and when 4 inches short of the entire length, knit i plain, I purl alternately for the remaining 4 inches to make the cuff, as in the first given sleeve General remarks applicable to the above and other knitted bodices :— i. On no account cast on tightly at the bottom of the jersey, or at the harmholes. 2. Let the sewing be neady done, but not so as to lose its elasticity. This is managed by putting the stitches close together, and not drawing the wool too tight. 3. If liked a Norwegian hem can be put at tlie bottom as follows : — Work a few rows in the ordinaiy manner, about 6 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET] or 8 will do. Next row, which must not be a purl row — * wool forward, take 3 together and repeat from * to the end of the row. Purl back, being careful to keep the number of stitches right, and go on in the usual way. When finished, this can be turned up and hemmed on the inside. It forms a strong and ornamental edge. Be careful, in mea- suring the length of your work by the pattern to start from the row of holes, as that will be the bottom when the hem is turned up. 4. If preferred, the waist part, the cuffs, and the band at the neck can be done in rather finer needles. This plan helps to keep those parts firm. 5. The whole jacket may be worked in plain and in purl. It is rather more tedious, but by some it would be thought to look better, and possibly fit better ; but it is a matter of taste. A well- shaped jersey in plain knitting, with nice cuffs and neck band, would be very ladylike and pretty. Materials — these are optional. Good brown fingering and No. 12 or 13 needles would look well. If finer materials are preferred, suitable choice can be obtained at the shops. LADY'S GAITERS. Although very simple, being only like a stocking without a foot, these gaiters will be found extremely useful for either schoolgirls or ladies who are obliged to go out all weathers. They are simply drawn on overthe ordinary stocking before putting on the boots, and prevent the damp petticoats from spoiling and wetting the regular stocking. It will be seen at once that they are a valuable protection against taking cold. Materials : about 4 oz. of best fingering. No. 13 pins. If you knit veiy loosely you must use No. 14 pins. Choose a colour of wool to match your ulster or dress. It is not necessary to have them quite so fine as stockings. Cast on loosely 76 stitches. Ribs of 2 plain, 2 purl, for 3i inches ; then knit plainly till you have 9 inches including the ribs, or, if you require them gartered above the knee for warmth, till you have 9 inches. You must now narrow 10 times with 6 rows between. For the ankle, knit 2 plain, 2 purl, in ribs as before for 5 inches. Cast off. BOY'S STOCKINGS, For 8 TO 10 YE.A.RS. Alloa yarn, heather colour, and No. 13 or 12 needles, according to your style of working. Buy half-a-pound of yarn, as it 1 will give you a little over. Cast on 64 j stitches. Make ribs of 2 plain 2 purl for 2 inches. Go on with plain-knitting till you have done 2 squares, or about 9 inches. Make a seam stitch in the needle which has 24 on it. Narrow 9 times on both sides of the seam, leaving four rounds between each narrowing. There are now 46 stitches. Knit 3i inches or about i square for the ankle. Divide for the heel. If the heel does not seem wide enough, you can make 2 stitches, one at each side of the seam, but if you work a fine wool in with your alloa yam, it will make it stronger, and the 23 stitches will be sufficient as you have them. Knit about 2.J inches for the heel, and then take it off with the Dutch heel. This heel is quite the easiest to make of any except the common one of sewing the work up when you have a sufficient length. This latter method is clumsy, and other heels are so easy, there is no reason why anyone should not make one at the first attempt from the following instruc- tions. To turn a Dutch heel — knit to what was the seamstitch and 2 beyond it (I omitted to say the seamstitch must be knitted plain in the heel, as otherwise it would make a ridge), take 2 together. Turn— slip the first stitch taking it on the needle as for purling, purl 5 stitches, purl 2 together. Turn — slip i, knit 5, take 2 together. Turn — slip I, purl 5, take 2 together. Turn — slip I, knit 5, take 3 together. Go on in this manner till all the stitches are worked off. Take up the stitches for the foot. You must make a few on each side of the heel, till you have 20 on one side and 21 on the other inclusive of those remaining from the heel. Knit one plain round, narrow every round at the ends of the side needles nearest the in- step, till you have as many stitches only as there were in the ankle. If the child has a high instep you may narrow every other round, but in this case you must do a corres- pondingly less number of plain rounds before narrowing for the toe, so as to have your foot the right length, and it frequently hap- pens that children with high insteps have rather short feet. If you have narrowed every round, knit a piece equal in length to the plain piece at the ankle, then narrow for the toe. First, knit 9, take 2 together, repeat to the end of the row, knit 8 rounds. Second, knit 8, take 2 together, repeat as before, knit 7 rounds. Third, knit 7, take 3 together, and repeat as before, knit 6 rounds. Fourth, knit 6, take 2 together, and repeat as before, knit 5 rounds. Fifth, knit 5, take 2 together, repeat as before, knit 4 rounds. Sixth, knit 4, take two together, repeat, knit 1 round. Seventh, knit 3, take 2 together, repeat, knit i round. Eighth, knit 2, take 2 together, repeat. Knit i round, knit i, take 2 together, repeat. Take 2 together and fasten off in the same round. Darn the end of wool into the hole. GIRL'S STOCKING For s Years. Materials : — Baldwin's beehive, obtain- able in 2 oz. packets, or the ordinary 4-ply Baldwin's best fingering. Needles to suit. No. 13, 14, 15, or 16, according to your work- ing and what you knit with. The model from which this is taken was a heather- coloured stocking knitted in beehive with No. 16 needles ; but unless you knit loosely, a larger size would be a little better, say 15 for the beehive and 14 for the fingering. Cast on 64 stitches. Knit 2 plain, 3 purl, until you have done a length of 3 inches. Now knit on plainly round and round until you have completed 2 squares. To narrow for the ankle, knit to the middle of the needle, which has most stitches on it : there should be 2 needles with 20 on them, and 1 needle with 24 stitches. Make a seam-stitch by purhng a stitch near the middle of that needle. Knit i plain stitch past the seam, then take 2 together. Knit round the stocking until you are within 3 stitches of the seam, then 2 together ; knit i plain. From this time never forget to purl the seamstitch until you come to the heel. Knit 5 plain rows without decreasing. Narrow in the 6th row from the last narrowing. There are now 2 narrowings and 5 plain rounds between them. Proceed in this manner, knitting 5 plain rounds and narrowing in the 6th until you have decreased 9 or 10 times, according to the size of the child's ankle— 9 times will probably suit. For the ankle, knit i square plain. For the heel, divide the stitches : if you have narrowed 9 times only, you should have 46 stitches. There will be 23 stitches for the heel. You must either work the heel with double wool, or make I or 3 stitches to have the heel large enough. Double wool of the kind you are knitting, or at any rate a finer wool knitted in, is much the best plan for an active child ; it is very soft and doe not require mending so soon. Knit about i inches in length, and then take off the hee with a gusset. All kinds of heels are ex- plained in No. II., if you do not like the gusset. If you do any other heel than the gusset, remember, to do i or 2 more plain rows before beginning to take the heel off, that is, instead of knitting ij inches, you must knit nearly 2 inches before beginning to turn a Dutch heel. When the heel is finished take up the stitches on each side of it. You must make a few stitches on each side of the heel, so as to bring the whole number you take up, inclusive of those left from taking off the heel, to 33. That will be 16 on I side, and 17 on the other, and this number added to the 33 left across the instep, will make 56 stitches in all. Now knit one plain round. Narrow in the next round on each side of the heel at the ends of the needles nearest the insteps. Leave i stitch plain between the narrowing and the end of the needle. Continue narrowing every round until your stitches are decreased to the number you had in the ankle, viz., 46. Now knit I plain square, or if the child has a short foot a few rows short of a square. Now take off the toe. To do this, knit 8, take 2 together, and repeat to the end of the round. Knit 7 rounds plain. 3nd narrowing — knit 7, take together and repeat to the end of the round. Knit 6 rounds plain. 3rd narrowing — knit 6, take 3 together, and repeat. Knit 5 plain rounds. 4th narrowing — Knit 5, take 2 together and repeat. Knit 4 plain rounds. 5th narrowing — Knit 4, take 2 to- gether, and repeat. Knit i plain round. 6th — Knit 3, and take 2 together and repeat Knit I plain round. 7th — knit 3, take 2 to- gether and repeat. Knit I plain round. 8th — knit I, take 2 together, and repeat. Knit r plain round. 9th — knit 2 together, knit 3 together and repeat, fastening off the round at the same time. Darn the end into the hole. BABY'S OPEN DIAMOND PATTERN SOCK. Cast on 60 stitches ; knit 2, purl 2 for 30 rounds. Pattern. — ist round — knit 7 * wool in front slip I, knit 2 together, turn slipped stitch over, wool in front knit 5 ; repeat from * 4 times, wool in front, slip l, knit 2 together, turned slipped stitch over, knit 9 seam i. 2nd round — plain all round. 3rd round — knit 5, knit 2 together, wool in front; * knit 3 wool - in front, knit 2 together, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET knit I, knit 2 together, wool in front ; repeat from * 4 times, knit 3 wool in front, knit 2 together, knit 7, seam i. 4th round — same as 2nd. 5th round— knit 4, knit 2 to- gether, wool in front, knit 5 * wool in front, slip I, knit 2 together, turn slipped stitch over, wool in front, knit 5 ; repeat from * 4 times ; wool in front, knit 2 together, knit 6, seam i. 6th round — plain all round. 7th round — knit 6, wool in front, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool in front, * knit 3 wool in front, knit 2 to- gether, knit I, knit 2 together, wool in front, repeat from * 4 times, Icnit 8, seam i. 8th round — same as 6th. 9th round — repeat from 1st, knit 56 rounds for the leg, or 7 patterns, besides the 30 rounds, purl and plain. For the heel. — divide the stitches evenly ; put half on one needle for the heel having the seam stitch for the centre, knit backwards and forwards on the heel needle for 24 rows. In the 25th row take 2 stitches together on each side of the seam stitch, purl back the 26th row ; 27th row, reduce again ' each side of the seam stitch ; purl back the 2Sth ; in the 29th row, knit 3 stitches beyond the seam stitch, slip the 4th, knit the 5th, turn the slipped stitch over, turn back, and purl 8 stitches, purl the 9th and loth to- gether, turn back, and continue thus knitting the 9 middle stitches, taking in i stitch from the sides until all are taken in, and only the 9 middle stitches remain. Pick up about 18 stitches on each side of the heel piece, and knit all round, working the lace pattern on the instep needle, the other 2 needles knit plain. Take 2 stitches to- gether at the end of the first and at the be- ginning of the second heel needle, every oilier round till the stitches are reduced to about 58. Knit 52 rounds for the foot ; divide the stitches evenly on the 3 needles. In the 53rd round — take 2 stitches together at the beginning and cut of each needle. Knit 4 rounds, reduce again same as before, knit 4 rounds, reduce again, knit 3 rounds, reduce again, knit 2 rounds, reduce again, knit I round, then reduce till only 6 stitches remain. Needles, size 18. Silk. — i oz. white, and about ^ oz. maroon . These socks will fit a child from r to 2 years — corresponding to size 3 of ordinary socks. ' INFANT'S BOOT. Materials required : — Joz. white Andalusian wool, h oz. coloured ditto, and 3 knitting needles, No. 16. Cast on 56 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 for 16 rows, to form the rib. * Knit 2, purl 2 for 2 rows. I row plain knitting, i row purl. Next row — knit i, wool forward and knit 2 together, repeat to end of row, knit2 last plain. 1 row plain knitting. Repeat this pattern from * 5 times to form the sock. You now require the 3rd needle. Knit 19 stitches on first needle, 18 on middle and leave 19 on the third. Repeat the pattern 4 times on the middle needle for top of foot, Now 83 join on the coloured wool on right side. Knit 16 plain rows on middle needle, tlien 10 more, only knitting i and taking 2 together tlie beginning of each row for narrowing the toe; you should have 8 stitches left. Now pick up on the right side the other stitches (as you would the heel of a stocking), com- mencing with those on the right hand needle, and by taking 4 from the middle you will have 50 on each of the 2 needles. Knit 18 plain rows, narrowing the toe end of each needle when the right side is towards you, that is, every other row. Knit 8 rows plain narrowing both ends of the needles, knitting first and last stitches. Cast off and sew up. Twist a cord with the coloured wool and thread it through the bottom row but one of holes in the sock, finishing each end off with a tassel, or ribbon might be used instead of the cord. INFANT'S BOOT. Materials : — J oz. pale blue and ^ oz. white Berlin wool, 3 steel needles, No. 14. Cast on 27 stitches with blue and knit 2 plain rows. 3rd row — slip I, increase by picking up a stitch, knit the rest plainly. Do 3 more rows in this manner. Purl a row after every 6 rows. Repeat the 3rd row until there are 36 stitches, then decrease to 27, cast on 6 more stitches for the heel, purl and increase at the other end until you have 36 again, purl and divide your stitches, leaving 17 on the heel side and 19 on the other, knit 7, join the white and purl I, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped over, repeat once more, this must be the wrongs side. Next row, purl 5, knit, repeat once more, knit 7 plain with blue. Repeat these 2 rows until you have your holes done, then join on the blue, and cast on 17 stitches oppositd the other 17, purl and decrease until you have 27 stitches left ; cast off. Next take up the stitches to form the leg, making 42 in all. Knit I row. Next row — knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together to the end of row. Next row — plain, join the white wool, and do the same pattern for the leg as the white part in the front. When long enough for the leg, do the frill. 1st row — * knit I, seam f, knit i, all in I stitch, do 5 stitches the same, seam the 7 stitch, repeat from * to the end. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — like the first. 4th row — plain. Cast off. Crochet with blue wool 3 chain, I double crochet to finish off. CROCHET COMBINATION PETTICOAT. For a Child 3 Months Old. Materials required : — 3^ ozs. of Penelope wool and i No. 10 small crochet hook. Make 209 chain of pink wool, unite with a slipstitch. ist round — i chain, miss a chain, * I double into the next chain, repeat from * until you have 9 double following one another ; now put 3 double into the next chain to that ; repeat from * until you have 9 as before, miss 2 chain, and re- peat from the first * ia the ist round until the round is completed. Work always in the back chain. There should be 11 scallop?. 2nd round and succeeding rounds same as first until you begin to narrow ; proceed in this manner until you count 7 ribs, join on the grey wool. To decrease take 2 stitches together and crochet them into i in the middle of each side of scallop, so that in next round, instead of having 9 stitches on each side of the centre 3, you have only 8, thus decreasing 2 stitches to each scallop. Work on till you can count 3 ribs, then join on pink wool and decrease same as before. You will see that you have now decreased to 7 stitches. Work on till you have 3 ribs as before, join on grey and decrease the same as before for 3 ribs. Now there are 6 stitches each side. This finishes the skirt. The body — join on pink wool and decrease the same as in skirt, work forward and backward to leave it open for putting on, woik 3 ribs, join on grey wool, do not decrease this time, v\ork forward and backward 3 ribs. Sleeve — join on pink wool, work till you get to centre of 3rd scallop, turn and -work forward and backward 2 ribs, then decrease as before, work I more rib, then fasten off; this is half of back, the other half to be woiked to match. Front — you will now see there are 3 scallops in the centre, and half one at each side; work forward and backward in the same manner as you did the back. You will see each side of front and back a place left for the armhole. For the shoulder — ^join with sam.e colour, make 25 chain and work back, double in each chain, and fasten oft' neatly. The other shoulder to be done to match. Sleeve — join on grey wool, make a double, 3 chain, i double in one hole, miss a loop and slipstitch, miss a loop and make i double, * 3 chain, i double, mix a loop and slipstitch, repeat from * ; there should be 1 1 points. 2nd round — make a double, 3 chain, i double, work it in centre chain of previous row, and slipstitch on the under slipstitch of previous round ; go on working round and round till you count ; rounds, fasten off, and work the other sleeve in same manner, also round the neck to match, make opening at the back, secure by working double crochet ■^vith a little edging on right side to lap over, * slip a stitch, miss a loop, make a double, 3 chain, i double in I loop, repeat from * add button and loop, make a chain and run in the neck with small tassels. The model has a little scallop round the bottom ; for this put a * slipstitch in the hollow part and miss I loop, work a double into the next loop, make 3 treble into the next loop, I double, then slip a stitch, work i double into the next loop, work 3 treble, i double in the next and slip a stitch ; this makes 2 scallops ; for the pomt of the scallop of the petticoat, a slipstitch was last made, so now make a double in the next loop, 3 treble, the same in the loop, next to that a double, slipstitch, miss a loop and make a double into the next, 3 treble in next double, shpstitch, work a double in next loop, 3 treble, i double in next loop and slip a stitch in the hollow. You will see that there has been i scallop more worked round. Repeat from * till you have finished round. The above seems a lot of work, but, when finished, makes a pretty garment that can be worn either as petticoat or frock. If the above was worked in fleecy or Scotch fingering with the same size hook it would make a much larger petticoat. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. LADIES' KNITTED PETTICOAT. Materials required : — 13 ozs. of Scotch fingering, any colour preferred, 4 bone needles, No. 8, 18 inches long. Begin with lace (called English lace). Cast on 16 stitches. 1st row — knit 2, make i, knit 5, make I, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make i, knit 4. 2nd row — knit plaia. 3rd row — knit 2, make i,knit i, knit 2 together, make 2, slip i, knit 2 together, draw slip-stitch over, knit i, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, draw slip-stitch over, knit 5. 4th row — knit plain except over loop, formed by slipping, on which make 3 stitches, purling the centre one. 5th row — knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3. 6th row — knit plain. 7th row — knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make i,knit S, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 8th row — ^knit plain. 9th row — knit i, knit 2 together, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, draw slip-stitch over, make i, knit I, knit 2 together, make 2, slip i, knit 2 together, draw slip-stitch over, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. loth row — like 4th. nth row — knit 2, make i, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3. 1 2th row — knit plain. Repeat from 1st row till you have 54 scallops, join together and take up the stitches on top of lace, on 3 needles, allow 8 stitches for each pattern. 1st row — knit 6, knit 2 together, make i, all round. 2nd row — knit plain all round. 3rd row — make i,knit 2 together, knit 3, taking up back loop, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, repeat all round. 4th row — knit I, make I, knit 2 together, knit i from the back, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, repeat. 5th row — knit plain. 6th row — knit 2, make i, knit 3 together, make i from the back, repeat all round. 7th row — knit plain. This finishes first pattern. Repeat from 1st row, only decrease 2 stitches in the ist round of first pattern on each needle. Repeat to 7th row, when finished repeat from ist row, but the decreasing must be in the ist round of second pattern on the needles, by so decreasing you get 4 stitches to knit instead of 6, in each succeeding pattern. These decreased patterns must be continued a pattern further on the needles, every commencing of 1st row of each pattern of 7 rows round, to make the skirt shapeable. When you have got 4 stitches ir.stead of 6, all round, then knit 3 and purl 3 sufficiently deep for length required, leaving the placket hole by knitting backwards and forwards. Then fix in band. 84 BABY'S KNITTED PETTICOAT. Materials : — 5 ozs. of white and 2 ozs. of blue Scotch fingering wool, and pins No. 9. Cast on 144 stitches with blue, and knit 4 plain rows. 5th row— join on the white, knit 2,* make i, knit 3, slip i, knit 2 to- gether, pass the slip stitch over, knit 3, make I, knit I, repeat from * to the end of the row. 6th row — seamed. Repeat the 5th and 6th rows till 6 more are done. Join the blue and knit 4 plain rows. 17th row — knit i, * seam 3 with white, slip 2 blue, knit 3 with white, repeat from *, and at the end knit i. 1 8th row — knit i, * seam 3 with white, slip 2 blue, repeat from *, at the end knit i. 19th and 2oih rows — the same as 17th and iSth rows. 2 1st and 22nd rows — plain with blue. 23rd row — knit 2, * slip 2 blue, knit 3 white, repeat from *, at the end knit 4. 24th row — * seam 4, slip 2 blue, seam 3 white, repeat from *. 25 th and 26th rows — the same as 23rd and 24th rows. 27th row — ^join the blue and knit 2 plain rows. This finishes the border of the petticoat. For the centre — join the white and knit 4 rows plain and seamed alternately. 5th row — knit 5, * knit the next till a little more than half the depth is done, then break oft" at everj' row for the placket hole ; decrease here and there in the last half, to shape the petticoat ; work a narrow edging round the placket hole, and sew the petticoat into a band, finish with button and buttonhole. Point de neige was fuUv explained in No. i, and details for decieas/ng and increasing were given in No. 4 in directions for "Pretty Crochet Hood." For the knitted lace, cast on 10 stitches. 1st row — knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, and knit 2 together twice, make i and knit 2. 2nd and every alternate row — plain. 3rd row — knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, make i and knit 2 together twice, make i and knit 2. 5th row — knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2. 7th row — knit i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 4, make i, knit 2 together twice, make I, knit 2. 91 h row— knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2. nth row— knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 6, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2. 13th row — knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 7, make I, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2. 14th row— cast off 7 stitches, and lepeat from ist row. stitch, but not let it off; bring the wool in front, seam it, pass the wool back, and knit it and let it off' the stitch, pull the 2 last stitches on the right-hand pin over the last twice, repeat from *. Purl and knit alternate rows till 5 more are done. Next row-— knit 2, * knit the next st'tch, but not let it off, bring the wool in front, seam it, pass the wool back and knit it and let off" the stitch, knit 5, and repeat from *. Repeat from the beginning of the centre till long enough, sew up neatly, leaving a space for the placket 1 hole, crochet an edge round the bottom. For 1 the bodice, cast on 38 stitches with No. 12 pins, and knit in ribs of 2 and 2 until 38 rows are done. Next knit 7, cast off all but 7, which knit plain backwards and forwards for 20 rows, cast off and knit the other 7 the same. For the backs cast on 24 stitches. Knit 4 plain rows, and next knit in ribs for 38 rows. Cast off and sew the strap across. Knit the other to correspond. Sew up the side seams, leaving space for the armholes. Crochet an edge round the bodice and arm- holes with blue. PRETTY PETTICOAT, For 2 TO 4 Years. This petticoat is worked in shell pattern or point de neige, and has a border of kniited lace. Itmaybe composed of any useful colours. The materials required are 3 oz. of best Scotch fingering, a coarse bone crochet hook, and medium-sized bone knitting pins. For the petticoat, make a chain the length required; join, and work in point de neige nW street, Loudon, |;.C. CHILD'S KNITTED PETTICOAT For 2 to 4 Years. Materials required : — 4.^ ounces of red fingering and one of white. The pattern is a simple one, and each row is the same. It is knittcL' \n the ordinary sized wooden needles, and in one piece, sewn vp the back. Pattern — * Make one stitch by biinging the w-ool in front, slip the next stitch off" without knitting it, and knit the next two together ; repeat*. When sufficiently long for the waist piece to begin, knit two of the sets together, which makes it half the size, then knit the length required and cast off" in the ordinary way. The bottom is finished off with a crochet edge, ist row — 3 chain, fastened with a double crochet into every rib. 2nd row— I chain and i treble, repeated five times into i hole, and i chain fastened with a double crochet into the next hole ; this is repeated alternately all rounck Erv7ryYouBg~Larlv"s)iniild send fur a copy of THE NOVEL READER, a Xow Wonkly Magazine, book size. Nos. 1 to 15 are now really, and contain highly interesting stories by well- known authors. Each No. !!<;., 2)0S( /JW, or the 15 Isos. Is Vii., from R S. CARTWEIGHT, S, Johnson 3 Court, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. CROCHET BONNET FOR 4 YEARS. Materials required : — J lb. single Berlin wool, 3 yards ribbon, a hat shape, head lining, and a bone hook, No. 7. This bonnet if put upon a shape is only fit for winter wear, as it is rather heavy ; but it could be made much lighter by merely lining with stiff net or buckram, and running wire through edge of brim and curtain. We will take the shape as the easiest method. Procure one to your taste. The " Granny " is always pretty for little girls. Now make a chain sufficiently long to go across crown from the middle of the top to the middle of the neck part. Turn and work 3 double crochets into 3 successive chain stitches, make 3 chain and slip-stitch it into lop of the last of the 3 double. This forms a purl. Then make 3 more double into ne.xt 3 stitches and another 3 chain, which purl as before, and go on repeating till you have worked up all your chain. The next row is plain double crochet in every stitch of previous row, being careful to take up only the hack loop. The 3rd row is the same as the 1st, and these 2 rows are repeated till sufficient is done to cover half the crown. You will have to decrease a little towards the end bypassing over a stitch at beginning and end of row. The safest way is to cut out the shape of your crown in brown paper, as tliough you were going to cover it with plush and then work your crochet to it. In this way you might begin at one side and increase for the centre of crown, again decreasing for other side ; but in the method suggested, you would break off when one half was done, and join on again where you first commenced. Having securely fastened off, tack your crown firmly on, easing it where necessary, and proceed to do the brim and curtain in just the same way, making a chain long enough, and decreasing a little to make it fit nicely. You wdl have to work 2 pieces for brim, and make the under part slightly larger than the over part, so that it can be turned up on the right side. Having sewed your brim and curtain on, you will proceed to make the trimming which goes right round the bonnet. Make a chain the length required, turn, i double mto second and every succeeding cha.n-2nd row. 10 chain, i double into every stitch of previous rows. 3rd row- same as the 1st. 4th row— same as the "nd These rows are repeated alternately till about 3 indies in width. Now make another piece 7 inches long and 3 inches broad to arrant'e 85 on top of crown. .Sew on your borderings. Procure some satin ribbon, which place between curtain and crown, and brim and crown to make it neat. The piece on the brim can be all in one with strings, which should be cut sla.nting at the edges. Mix some satin nJoon with your feather, and sew it on top of crown tastefully. Add a bow of ribbon at back of neck, and pleat some coffee or cream-coloured lace very full into brim. Neatly line it, and this pretty little inex- pensive bonnet is complete. If you do not wish to use the shape, procure a pattern and cut all parts out in stiff net, on which lay your wool work and lining before making up. Run a wire in brim. DRESS IN RUSSIAN CROCHET. For Baby 12 Months Old. Materials required : — 6 oz. Berlin wool of any pretty shade, 2 yards narrow ribbon, 3 wide, 4 yards lace. The model was worked in salmon pink. Make the skirt first, com- mencing from the waist. Make a chain about 25 inches long, into this work 18 points, con- sisting of I double crochet into first 3 chain (taking up the back loop only), i double crochet, i chain, i double crochet into 4th chain; 3 double crochet into next 3 chain, ■'i miss 2 chain and so continue until there are 18 points ; all the following rows ihe same. Increase every 8 rows by working 2 double crochet instead of i each side of the 3 in the middle ; so continue until there areS each side and 44 rows. This completes the skirt. Always remember to take up tlie hack looiJ only in previous row. For the bodice, com- mence from the waist, ist row — i plain row of double crochet. 2nd row — i row of treble. 3rd row — 3 double crochet into first 3 treble, I double crochet, i chain, i double crochet into 4th treble, 3 double crochet into next 3 treble, so continue for 14 rows. Work to 4th point each side for 3 rows, leaving i point each side for annholes, work the 8 middle points of the body for 3 rows. To rnake sleeves — make 6 points with 3 each side same at skirt, work for 6 rows, then increase by putting 2 double crochet each side of the middle one ; work 2 rows after increase, then join. Join sleeves in places left in the bodice, then i row of double crochet, i row of treble, i row of 3 chain, i double crochet. This forms a fancy heading. , Pleat lace round bottom and also in neck and \ sleeves. Make button-holes by pushing the stitches aside and working over with wool or twist. Run a string in waist and neck, sew a bow on front of bodice and on each shoulder Now Ready. Price id. Mrs. Leach's Washing and Laundry Check Book. Cv.'itiimmK H,)\v to Wasli, Shircli, and Iron, with valu- able Koripos for Cleaning. Dyeing, ic, and lirinted Lanndry Checks for six months. Of all Ncwsvenrtor.s, or post free for .M. from E S Oartwkioht, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, B C LADIES' CROCHET PETTICOAT. Materials :— i lb. of cardinal and 5 ozs. of grey petticoat yarn, bone hook, No. 7, Hope's gauge. Commence at the waist. Make a chain of 80 stitches, work 7 rows plain double crochet, taking both edges of the stitches throughout the work. Then every 4th row increase I stitch in every loth. The next increase row it will be work 11 double crochet plain, 2 in the next, and repeat for 4 1 rows. In the 42nd increase I eveiy Jlh stitch. Then do one plain row and join, so that it can be worked round, and have iSo stitches to work upon, ist round — i double crochet on each of 3 stitches, I treble on the next 2, I long on the next, I treble on each of the next 2, i double crochet on each of the next, repeat all round. 2nd round — * 5 double crochet in the long stitches, 5 double crochet on the double crochet, r peat from * 3rd round — * miss 2 double crochet, 4 double crochet on the next 4, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet on next 3. repeat from * LADIES' CROCHET PETTICOAT. This petticoat is worked from the top, and will take 4i cuts of best petticoat fingering yarn (grey), and li cuts scarlet, with medium- sized bone crochet needle. All the treble is worked thus : Wool over the needle into the two back loops, draw through one stitch, leaving three, which are drawn through together, thus making two double stitches on the back instead of one. Commence from the waist with a chain of 187 stitches, ist rqw — *4 consecutive treble into the first 4 stitches, 3 treble into the next stitch, 4 con- secutive treble into the ne.xt 4 stitches, miss 2 stitches, repeat from * and there will be four treble to finish with at the end of the row. Repeat for 19 rows more. 21st row — * 4 consecutive treble into 4 treble of previous row, 4 treble into next stitch, 4 consecutive treble into 4 treble of previous row, miss 2 stitches ; repeat from*. 22nd to 29th row — * 5 consecutive treble into 5 treble of previous row, 2 treble into next stitch, 5 consecutive treble, miss two stitches ; repeat from*. 30th row — * 5 consecutive treble into 5 treble of previous row, 4 treble into next stitch, 5 con- secutive treble, miss 2 stitches; repeat from*. 31st row — *6 consecutive treble into6trebleof previous row, 3 treble into next stitch, 6 con- secutive treble, miss 2 stitches; repeat from*. Work 5 more rounds same as last, join scarlet, and work 4 rounds ; 3 rounds grey ; 4 rounds scarlet ; 3 rounds grey ; 3 rounds scarlet. Last round (scarlet) — *6 conse- cutive treble into 6 treble of previous row, 4 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. row, * 5 consecutive treble over the next 5 treble, 2 treble in the next stitch, 3 treble in the centre stitch of the 3 treble of previous row, 2 treble in the next stitch, 5 consecutive treble, miss 2 treble of previous row, and repeat from * ; miss i treble at the end of the row. 13th row— miss the first treble at the ;j treble into next stitch, 6 consecutive treble, miss 2 stitches ; repeat from * and finish. Band at top—* i treble into every stitch, and 3 into the two stitches that are missed ; repeat from *, next 3 rounds plain treble. Make thick chain with scarlet, and draw through top, and finish with tassels at ends. CHILD'S PETTICOAT For 9 Years. Materials.— 6i oz. of single Berlin wool. Small bone-crocliet hook. The petticoat is to be worked in rows as far as the end of the placket hole, and when the placket hole is completed and joined, the stitch is continued in rounds. Commence for the waist with a chain as long as required, the number of stitches to be divisible by nine ; 99 chain gives a fair medium size. Make 2 more chain to turn, i treble into the 3rd from the needle, and treble all along to the end. Break off at the end of this and every row. Commence again at the right-hand side, working the first treble over the chain stitch that turned in the previous row, and do treble all along, working into 2 threads of the treble stitches of previous row. 3rd row all plain treble. These 3 rows form the waist-band, and you now commence working the pattern. 4th row — 4 consecutive treble over the first, 4 treble, 3 treble in the next stitch, * 8 consecutive treble, 3 treble in the next stitch, repeat from * ; and there will be 4 treble to finish with at the end of the row. 5th row— miss i treble at the beginning of the row, * work 3 consecutive treble over the next 3 treble, 2 treble in the next stitch, 3 treble in the centre stitch of 3 treble of previous row, 2 treble in the next stitch, 3 consecutive treble, miss 2 treble of previous row, and repeat from * ; work 3 treble at the end of the row, and miss the last stitch. 6th row— miss the first treble at the begin- ning of the row, * 5 consecutive treble over the next 5 treble, 3 treble in the centi'e stitch of 3 treble of previous row, miss 2 treble of previous row, and repeat from * ; miss i treble at the end of the row. 7th row — the same as the last row. 8th row — miss the 1st treble at the beginning of the row, * A con- secutive treble over the next 4 treble, 2 treble in the next stitch, 3 treble in the centre stitch of the 3 treble of previous row, 2 treble in the next stitch, 4 consecutive treble, miss 2 treble of previous row, and repeat from * ; miss I treble at the end of the row. 9th row — miss the ist treble at the beginning of the row, * 6 consecutive treble over the next 6 treble,3 treble in the centre stitch of the3treble of previous row, 6 consecutive treble, miss 2 treble of previous row, and repeat from * ; nth rows — same as the last row. 12th row — miss the ist treble at the beginning of the 86 j»» I. •* -uS^tfJ**** ^^S*-. * beginning of the row, * 7 consecutive over the next 7 treble, 3 treble in the centre stitch of 3trebleof previousrow, 7 consecutivetreble, miss 2 treble of previous row and repeat from * ; miss I treble at the end of the row. t4th, 15th, i6th — the same as last row. Now join the end of the row to the com- mencement, for this finishes the placket hole, and contmue the petticoat in rounds with-, out any more breaking off. Work i more round the same as the last round ; join. i8tli round — *6 consecutive treble over the next 6 treble, 2 treble in the next stitch, 3 treble in the centre stitch of the 3 treble of previous round, 2 treble in the next stitch, 6 consecutive treble, miss 2 treble of previous round, and repeat from * ; join. 19th round — * 8 consecutive treble over the next 8 treble, 3 treble in the centre stitch of the 3 treble of previous round, 8 consecutive treble, miss 2 treble of previous round, and repeat from * ; join. Work 5 more rounds the same as the last round. 25th round — * 7 consecutive treble over the next 7 treble, 2 treble in the next siitch, 3 treble in the centre stitch of the 3 treble of previous round, 2 treble in the next stitch, 7 consecu- tive treble, miss 2 treble of previous round, and repeat from * ; join. 26th round — 9 consecutive treble over the next 9 treble, 3 treble in the centre stitch of the 3 treble in previous round, 9 consecutive treble, miss 2 treble of previous round, and repeat from join. Work 9 tebles into the next, I treble into the next 4 treble into the next. Repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — I double into every stitch except the centre one of the point, made by the 3 long trebles, in this work 3 doubles. Repeat. 3rd row — same as 2nd row, except that you pass over 2 stitches in the space between the 2 points. The 3rd row is repeated through- out till the petticoat is the length required. When finished sew on a broad band of silk elastic. more rounds same as the last round, and the petticoat will be long enough. For an edge round the bottom, work i double crochet in the second treble of the 9 treble of previous round, * 2 chain, 2 treble in the double crochet stitch. You have just done, miss I treble of previous round, i double crochet in the next treble, and repeat from * ; strengthen the placket hole with a row of double crochet, and the petticoat will be finished. The petticoat can have a linen band or bodice sewn on, whichever is pre- ferred. PETTICOAT For Child of 3 Years. Materials required : — Rather more than a J lb. of white Berlin wool, and bone crochet hook. No. 12. Make a chain of 125 stitches, join and work one double into every stitch. 2nd row — * I double into a stitch, ^ treble (made by inserting hook in stitch, drawing wool through, leaving 2 loops on needle, draw through i, then through remaining 2) into tlie next, i treble into the next, 3 dovible U,. Zr:fi i4 .1 »-^ 4. -,?.£;• PINNING BLANKET OR PETTICOAT. The following article is useful for quite a little baby to keep it warm in the winter when lying on the lap or in the bassinette. Materials, white fingering wool and crochet-hook N o. 8 or 9. The dimensions when finished are about as follows — 24 inches at the waist, 12 inches in depth, and 34 inches round the bottom, and a placket-hole of 6 inches at the back. Frpm the^e measurements, a paper pattern can be cut of half of the petticoat, and instead of counting the decreasings, those ladies who prefer can just fold the work and measure from the pattern increas- ing as often as appears to be necessary. To those who prefer counting, the following may prove suitable. To begin, make a chain 24 inches long. 1st row — miss a loop*, i double crochet into the next loop, repeat from * to to the end of the row. 2nd row— turn, I chain, i double crochet into every loop. In taking up the loops always take up both front and back of the double crochet loops in the previous row. 3rd row — like the second row. 4th row — and every succeeding row until further stated like the 2nd row. Work on in this manner, backward and forward for about 4 inches in depth. Next row increase by putting two double crochet stitches into every 15th stitch. That will be an increase of 7 or 8 stitches in the row. Work on plain for about 2 inches more. Now unite into a round. Next round increase as before, but put your 2 double crochet into the i6th stitch. Work on round and round for ij inches. Increase as before in the 17th stitch. Work li more inches. Next round increase as before in the i8th stitch. Work ij inches more and in the THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, next round increase as before in every 19th titch. You have now increased 5 times. The petticoat should be about 34 inches wide at the bottom. You had better measure as you go on, and if it does not seem likely to be wide enough, increase a httle more frequently than at the distance of ij inches. Leave an inch or j of an inch between instead of the i-^ inches named. For the band — crochet i or 2 rows of the following, treble into a loop*, i chain, miss a loop, i treble into the next loop, repeat from* to the end of the row. Run a soft string crocheted or otherwise through the holes. If preferred, the petticoat can be made open all the way down, and fastened together with strings. A knitted band is liked by some instead of the treble. To do this, take up the stitches on a long knitting needle. Knit a'few plain rows. For the holes knit i plain *, wool forward, take 2 together, repeat from * to the end with the exception of the last stitch. Knit that last stitch plain. Knit i or 2 plain rows and cast off. For colour, the model is worked in stripes of pink and white. For the first 6 inches of the petticoat, it is worked in stripes of 3 rows of pink and 3 of white. After the petticoat is joined into a round, the stripes are wider, and for the last 6 inches they have 4 rows in each stripe of white and pink. Endless varieties can be made, but whenever possible there is nothing looks so pretty as white for infants, with sometimes a dash of pale pink or blue. If wished longer work more rows in the petticoat. SHAWL IN HONEY CROCHET. Materials required : — ij lb. of best Scotch fingering, medium-sized bone hook. Make a chain the length required for the shawl. 1st row — I treble in the 6th chain from the needle, * i chain, miss 3, i treble 3 chain i treble in the same loop as the ist treble, repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — i double crochet 5 treble i double crochet into every loop of 3 chain of last row. 3rd row — 4 chain, * i treble between the 2 double crochet stitches of last row, 3 chain, another treble in the same stitch as the last, I chain, repeat from *, i chain, i treble at the end of row. 4th row — i double crochet, 5 treble, i double crochet into every loop of 3 chain of last roAv. At the end of row work i extra double crochet in the corner loop. 5th row — 6 chain, i treble between the 2 double crochet at the corner of last row, * 1 chain, i treble between the next 2 double crochet stitches of last row, 3 chain, another treble in same row. These 2 rows form all 87 the pattern, and are worked till the shawl is the size required. To shape it as shown decrease i scallop at beginning and end of every row, till you have a nice rounded shape. Fringe all round with ball fringe except neck part, which has a simple scallop of chain and j double. The balls are made in 2 round pieces of card with a hole through the centre. Sew wool through the centre and over the edge of the card till the hole is filled, then cut the wool between the two cards and tie it tightly in centre, remove the cards and cut the ball evenly round the edges, and hold them over steam to puff out the wool. HANDSOME SHAWL. This is a thick handsome pattern. Materials : No. 7 or 8 crochet hook, Shetland floss, or wool, or similar wool. Make a loose chain, but make it evenly, and a little longer than the desired width of the shawl. 1st row — turn, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, all into the 4th from the hook, * miss 2 loops, 1 treble into the 3rd, miss 2 loops, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble all into the 3rd loop. Repeat from * to the end of the row. In making the treble in this and in all the rest of the rows and'bordering, draw out each treble till it is fully an inch or more in length. 2nd row — 3 chain to turn, 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble, (i.e., one fiat picot) in the hole made by the one chain in the centre of the 1st picot in the previous row. Now make 6 treble into the top of the ist treble by itself in the previous row. Join the last of the 6 to the 1st of the 6 by catching the needle into the top of the ist treble,, and drawing the wool through both loops on the needle like a slip-stitch. Make a flat picot (2 treble, I chain, 2 treble) in the middle of the next picot in the previous row ; * a raised picot of 6 treble joined in a bunch as before over the next treble by itself, a flat picot in the middle of the next flat picot. Repeat from * to the end of the row. This ends the row with a flat picot. 3rd row — 3 chain to turn ; a flat picot in the ist flat picot iu the previous row, I treble in the join of the first raised picot, a flat picot in the next flat picot, * a treble in the join of the next raised picot, a flat picot in the next flat picot. Repeat from *. All the rows begin and end with a flat picot. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows, till the shawl or wrap is the required size. 1st row of the border — I treble into a loop, * miss a space equal to 2 loops, i flat picot (2 treble, i chain, 2 treble is a flat picot) into the next space or loop, miss a space equal to 2 loops, I treble into the next loop. Repeat from * all round, making it: full enough to be flat at the corners. 2nd and03rdrows— exactly like the 3rd row in the body of the shawl. 4th and 5th rows — the same as the others, with this exception, that in the picots you must put 3 treble, 1 chain, 2 treble to each picot. This gives 2 extra stitches to each picot, and this widens the border at the outside a little. 6th row — I double crochet into a loop, * 24 loose chain, i double crochet into the next loop. Repeat from * all round. EASY SHAWLS FOR BABIES AND OTHERS. The above are far more useful than the large cloaks for ordinary wear. An ex- tremely inexpensive and pretty shawl is made as follows : — Take a square of cashmere, cream, pink, or blue, and Shetland wool to match, and No. 6 or 7 crochet hook, or a finer hook if you work loosely. You will also require asteel hook for the ist round, istround — (Having made a narrow hern at the ends where the cashmere was cut) work i treble into thematerial,*make 2 chain, miss a spaceequal to 2 chain, then work another treble into the material. Repeat from * all round the shawl. 2nd round — I treble into a hole, 2 chain, * I treble into the next hole, 2 chain. Repeat from *. 3rd round— like the 2nd. 4th round — I double crochet into a hole, * make a loose chain 6 inches long, i double crochet into the same hole, make another loose chain the same length, I double- crochet into the next hole. Repeat from * all round, frilling the work a little at the comers. A Variation of the above can be made by taking a square or scarf length of the cashmere, and working a small trailing spray round the border in a conventional manner, and butlonlioling round the edge in scallops, or work handsome corners alone, and either fringe or the scallops all round. Silk is best for the embroidery, though crewels will do. BABY'S COUVRETTE. Materials : — Fingering, or Berlin wool, of any colour ; the model was in blue and white. The centre is a square of tricot in blue, about 12 inches each way, and should be embroidered with wool in a design of dog daisies and leaves, in white and olive-coloured wools. The rest of the coui-vette is very simple, being simply worked in shell stitch as follows : — To work shell stitch, make a double stitch into a loop, miss 2 loops, and work 5 treble into the 3rd stitch, miss 2 loops, I double crochet stitch into the ne.xt loop. 2nd row : — I double crochet stitch into the middle treble of the ist shell in the previous row,* 5 treble into the next double crochet stitch in the previous row, i double crochet into the middle one of the next 5 treble. Repeat from * all the way along. These two rows compose the pattern. Work the above all round the middle square, taking care to keep your work flat, and not either full or dragged, remembering that you are working round tricot, and not round chain, so that sometimes you must leave one loop, and sometimes two, just so that your work looks right. Keep the corners flat, and do not loose the pattern at the corners of the work. It is a very pleasant stitch to do, and verj' effective. The principle on which it is worked is just this : always let your shells of the row you are working come between the shells of the previous row. For the border : a row of very long drawn out treble, so that libbon can be run through the treble in and out, and a deep scallop outside the row of treble is very prett)', or if you do not wish the ribbon, work a scallop on the last row of shells. To make the scallop : work a double crotchet into the middle of one shell, and then make* I or 2 chain, and work as many long treble as you think necessary into the middle of the next shell, make the chain again, and a double crotchet into the middle of the next shell. Repeat from * as often as needed, taking care to fill up the corners well. This is a very handsome and inexpensive couv- rette. The design in the centre is worked in rather long stitches in the daisies, and the leaves after the same style. One of Briggs's patterns would be suitable to work from. MRS. LEACH'S Household Accoimt and Cookei'y Booi Coubiining Pages for Housekeeping Expenses for Six Months ; the Law of Mistress and Servant ; Serrants' Duties ; Practical P.apers on Middle-Class Cookery, &c Of all Ncwsvendors, or 3d. post free from Mrs. Leach, ft. Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.C, - THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. BEAUTIFUL WOOL QUILT. Materials : — Coarse crochet-hook, No. 3 or 4 (finer, if you work very loosely), and ~ "' " ' You will double Berlin or fleecy wool, probably need about 4 lbs., more or less, according to the size of your quilt. That quantity will probably be sufficient. Make a chain the full length you wish your quilt lo be. 1st row — double crochet into every chain. Break off at the end of every row. 2nd row — double crochet into every loop. 3rd row— the same. 4th row — make a treble into WOOL ANTIMACASSAR. Raised Chain Pattern. Make a chain the length of your proposed antimacassar. Make it moderately loose. 1st row — I double into the and chain, * put the hook into the ne.xt loop, draw the wool through ; do not finish the double crochet, but make 4 chain, and in drawing the wool through the 4th chain, draw it through the 4th chain and the loop already on the needle. _ Now make i double into the next loop. ^1™ fj""'! Repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row — make a loop on your needle, put the hook into the first loop, putting it into the loop, * I chain, miss a loop, i treble into the next loop, repeat from * to the end of the row. . , ^ r^, c ^ j - u? u ^ .-^ ^ ■ 5th row-double crochet. 6th row-double Z™''* P^'^' °^_'''^ ^'f} .double- crochet stitch m crochet. 7th row — same as the 4th, bein careful to bring the holes exactly oult those in the 4th. 8th row^double crochet. 9th row — same as the 4th. loth row — double crochet, nth row — same as the 4th. 12th row — double crochet. 13th row — double crochet. 14th row — holes, as in the 4th row. 15th, 1 6th, and 17th rows — double crochet to match the three rows at the beginning. This completes stripe one. This is a simple stitch, therefore the beauty will consist in the regularity of the work, and a judicious selec- tion of harmonious colours. The 17 rows given make exactly one stripe, of which the 9th is the centre row. The whole stripe is a handsome width when worked. You can either work a number of stripes sufficient for the width of the quilt separately, and after- wards join them ; or you can begin again and work the first row on to the 17th. It is easiest to make the stripes separately. For colours, about 3 or more shades of grey or 1 slate, and blue, or fawn or drab, and crimson ] or faded greens, old gold and black. In ar- ' ranging, it is better to put the dark shades towards the outside edges of the stripes. The stripes can be sewn or crocheted together. To crochet them, slip stitch into the first loop of one stripe. Now slip stitch into the fii'st loop of the opposite stripe. Slip stitch back into the 2nd loop of the ist stripe, now into the 2nd loop of the 2nd stripe. Work thus, backward and forward, till the stripes are joined. Keep the work always right side up, and it will make a pretty zig-zag chain. If this be done in black or amber, it is an im- provement to some arrangements of colours. Work 3 rows of double crochet or treble all round the quilt, and a scallop on the last row double crochet or treble. If you put treble round, perhaps 2 rows will be enotigh instead of 3, as for the double crochet. The stripe given above could be alternated if liked with stripes in point de neige, but it would take more wool. PERAMBULATOR COVER. Stripes of tricoter joined either with the crochet needle or sewed together, make a substantial and handsome cover. The ap- pearance of the stripes is much improved by working diamonds of a suitable contrasting or harmonising shade of wool at regular in- tervals up the stripes. Fleecy or double Berlin worked with a tricoter hook of proper size are the most suitable wools. Colour : — Shades of brown with blue diamonds, orveiy dark rich crimson with diamonds in blue or gold, or blue and gold combined. Finish with a frin.ge or crocheted edge. The fringe is generally used, but is very apt to tickle the poor baby. Almost any kind of warm woollen cover suitable for an antimacassar can be adopted for a perambulator. 88" the previous row, * draw the wool through, make the 4 chain, and in making the 4th chain draw the wool through that chain and the loop already on the needle, n ow make i double into the next stitch : put the needle into the next loop and repeat from *. I can explain how to do the chain another way. Put the needle into the loop, draw the wool through, make 4 chain, and draw the loop left from the 4th chain through the loop already on the needle. When the chain knobs come at the end of the row, as in the 2nd row, you will have to hold them firm by making a sort of doable crochet stitch. Do it in this way — when you have made 3 chain of the la^t knob, put the hook again into the double crochet over which you are working, and draw the wool through. This will give you 3 loops on the needle : draw the wool through all three at once, make I chain, cut the wool and puU it tight to fasten off. 3rd row — I double into the first loop, put the hook into the next stitch, and repeat from * to * in the 2nd row. 4th row — like the 2nd row. 5th row — like the 2nd row also, but you must work it on the other edge of j the foundation chain you first made. Thus you see that the first row you did comes into the middle o/tlie stripe when all are completed. I The knobs of chain must come of course between those in the prei'ious low. 6th row — over the 5 th row, and work it like the 3rd. Proceed in this manner until the stripe is wide enough, and when it is wide enough you must work a round of double crochet. If you like you can slipstitch along the ends with the finishing colour to make them a little stronger before working the double crochet all round. In working the last round of double crochet, put a double crochet over every stitch in the previous round, and put, the needle tliruutjh or under both loops in the previous row. This antimacissar looks better in coarse wool worked v i h a coarse needle. The wool might be rather coarser than double Berlin with advantage. Fleecy wool would look well, and many of the better fleecy wools are made in very pretty colours. The hook should measure about li or ig inches round, and the work should not be worked tightly, particularly in the chain. Do not forget to break off at the end of every row, and keep a small hook near to draw the ends into the back of the work. It is better to cut the wool, as breaking it drags it and spoils the texture. Remember always , hole, to take up the loop that lies across the front and not the usual loop at the back of the stitch. Arrangement of colours — alter- nate stripes, one composed of 2 shades of blue, and the next of 2 shades of fawn or brown, each stripe having the double- crochet border of black. The stripes could be joined together with maize. The maize could bf threaded into a very large wool or dai'ning needle, and the stripes sewn looseltj together, very evenly from one end to the other and then back again, taking care that the second sewing exactly crosses the first, so that the effect is something like the lacing of a boot. A scallop border could be placed round the edge, and the ends fringed, or otherwise finished according to taste. Here is another ; rather simpler, but very effective, when arranged in pretty colours. Suitable for sofa blanket, antimacassar, or sofa cushion. Quickly done, thick and firm. Materials — double Berlin or any other wool about that thickness, and No. 4 hook. Make a chain the length you wish the antimacassar to be. Leave a quarter of a yard of wool hanging before making the first chain. When the chain is long enough, turn, ist row — I treble into the 4th loop from the needle, 2 more treble into the same loop, I chain, 3 more treble into the same loop. Now miss 3 chain and slipstitch loosely into the 4th chain, * miss 3 chain, 3 treble into the 4th chain, make i chain, 3 treble into the same chain, miss 3 loops or chain, slip- stitch loosely inio the 4th, and repeat from *. The end of wool hanging is left that if you are a few chains short at the end of the row to finish the pattern you can make them easily. Fasten off at the end of the row. 2nd row — draw the wool through the first loop. [It is really a loop of the 4 chain which had to do duty for a treble at the beginning of the first row.] Make 4 chain, making the end of the wool firm. These 4 chain do duty again for a treble, 2 more treble into the same loop, i loose slipstitch into the hole formed by the i chain between the treble in the previous row. * Now make 3 treble, over the next slipstitch in the first row and into the loop of the foundation chain into uhich you worked the slipstitch, i chain, 3 treble into the same loop, i loose slipstitch into the next hole formed by the i chain. Repeat .from *. 3rd row — i slipstitch into the fir.st loop, 3 treble over the slipstitch and into the hole formed by the I chain between the treble in the first row, i chain, 3 treble into the same hole. Now slipstitch loosely into the next hole in the previous row. * Now make 3 treble over the next slipstitch into the next hole in the last row but one, that is, the ist row, i chain, 3 treble into the same hole. Slipstitch into the next hole to keep the treble steady. Repeat from *. You will see that the 3 treble, l chain, 3 treble are always put into the last row but one, hiding up the slipstitch in the last row. In every row which begins with tieble you must therefore remember to put the hook into the last row but one, that is, you really work into the previous set of treble over the slipstitch. This makes the ends even, and like the middle. This antimacassar can have a scallop border. ist row — it would be as well to work a row of double crochet round. 2nd row — i double into a loop,* i chain, I double into the next. Repeat from *. 3rd row — I double into a hole, not into a stitch, I chain, miss a hole, i treble into the next hole. * 3 chain, catch the island the 3rd chain together, i treble into the same Repeat from * until you have 5 treble and 4 picots in the hole, i chain, miss a hole, I double in the next hole, i chain, miss a hole, I treble in the ne.xt hole. Repeat from the first * in the 3rd row. You can put more or less treble in the scollops as yo.I find necessary. A simple chain can be put between the treble instead of the picots, or the scallop row can be omitted, and fringe added to the holes in the 2nd row. You must add more treble to keep the borders flat THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Another Wool Crochet Antimacassar. The diamond pattern given in cotton in stripes, in this number, would do in shades of wool. Colours — fawn and blue, crimson and brown, or faded green and golden brown. The stripes edged with black, and a simple scallop border : a less number of treble than eight would probably be needed for the balls i 1 wool. HANDSOME ANTIMACASSAR. Wheel or Sunflower Pattern. Miterials : — No. 8 crochet cotton, and needle to suit — about No. ly may do. This is a useful size of cotton, but if you like to use finer, say No. i6. The pattern looks very well indeed, and is a little more suitable for a drawing-room. To begin — maice S cha.n, join into a round. ist round — 15 doable crochet into the hole. 2nd round— 6 chain. Take the needle out of the last loop and turn the chain round twice. Put the needle back into the loop, and work a long treble into the first double crochet in the previous round. The object of twisting the chain as mentioned above, is to make it look like a treble stitch, and thus hide the commence- ment of each row as far as possible. Try also, in putting the needle into the loop for the 1st long treble of the 2nd row, to put the needle through a portion of both the first and last double crochet in the istrow. The method given above joins the stitches nicely, and also helps to hide the beginnings of each row. Attention to these two points makes a good deal of ditference in the appearance of the work, and the methods given above should be adopted as far as possible in every round of this and similar patterns, though they will not again be mentioned. We will now proceed with the 2nd roand. You have made the 6 chain, and i long treble. * 2 chain, I long treble into the next double crochet. Repeat from * to the end of the round. When you have made the last long treble in the round, that is the 15th, make 2 chain. Unite wtth a slip stitch to the 4th stitch of the 6 you mide at the beginning of the round. 3rd round — there are 16 holes in the last round ; now make 3 double crochet into each one of the 16 holes, putting no chain between. You will have 48 double crochet altogether. 4th round — slipstitch very tightly into the 1st double crochet you made in the previous round, make 7 chain, twist them to look like a long treble, * i extra long treble into the next loop, repeat from * until you have 4 treble counting the 7 chain as one. t 9 pretty tight chain, * i extra long treble into the next stitch or loop, repeat from * until you have 4 long stitches, and repeat from f for the whole round, t'or explanation of long and extra long stitches, see the end of pattern. There will be 12 sets of extra long treble with 9 chain between. 5th round — slip stitch into the middle of the set of 4, now * i double crochet into the hole formed by the 9 chain, repeat from * until the hole is firmly full — it will take about 16. Now slipstitch between the 2nd and 3rd ex'ra long stitches in the next set of 4 and then repeat from the first * in the 5th round. Proceed in this manner until you have filled up 1 1 holes. In the 12th hole you must make the cross which joins the wheels together. To do this, do 8 double crochet in the usual manner, now make i, chain, turn i double crochet into the 2nd from the hook, * I double crochet into the next loop, repeat from * until you have 7 double crochet, t Now make 8 chain i double crochet into the 2nd from the hook, * i double crochet fiO into the next loop ; repeat from * until you have 7 double crochet again. Repeat from t. Now make I double crochet into the first of the remaining 7 chain, * i double crochet into the next and repeat from * until there are 7 double crochet done. This finishes the cross. Finish the other half of the hole in the usual way. Slipstitch to the middle o the next set of four, i. e., to where you began the 5th row, and break off, drawing the end in at the back. The engraving shows the method of joining. The wheels can be sewn or crocheted together. Every wheel does not require a cross making to it, as one cross joins 4 wheels. This pattern is almost ever- lasting wear, and always keeps its shape, as every loop in tlie wheel is held out by being joined either to a cross-bar or another wheel, and it requires no border. Small tassels attached by a chain could be placed between the wheels to finish the ends if liked. To make the long treble in the 2nd row, wind the cotton over the needle twice, put the needle in the loop, draw the cotton through. Then draw through 2 loops at a time, until all are of. For extra long treble in the 5th round, wind the cotton round 4 times and take oft" in the same way as the long treble. GEOMETRICAL ANTIMACASSAR. Materials : — Crochet cotton, medium or any size preferred, and needle suitable for worki ng the size of cotton chosen. Make a chain the required length of the antimacassar. You should be able to divide the number of the stitches by 10 and have 8 over. The 8 over are for 4 treble at the beginning and end of each row, which are simply for an edge and not included in the pattern. Having made the chain the right length, do a row of treble, one treble being put into every loop. 1st pattern row — always do the 4 treble at the beginning of the row before beginning the pattern and 4 treble at the end of the row. These 4 treble will not bementioned again. They must always be there, indepen- dently of the p.ittern. To begin the pattern* 10 chain, miss 10 loops, * i treble into the next loop, repeat from * until you have 10 treble. Now repeat from the first * in this row. Break off the cotton at the end of every row. 2nd pattern row — * 10 chain, miss 10 loops, 2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 2 treble. Repeat from*. 3rd row — * 10 chain, miss 10 loops, 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 4 treble. Repeat from*. 4th row — like the 2nd pattern row. 5th row — like the ist pattern row. 6th row — in this row you begin to reverse the pattern so as to have the blocks over the open spaces of chain. Work 10 treble over the 10 chain in the previous row. * 10 chain, miss 10 loops, 10 treble over the next 10 chain. Repeat from *. 7th row — * 2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 2 treble, lo chain, miss 10 loops. Repeat from *. 8th row — * 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 4 treble, lo chain, miss 10 loops. Repeat from*. 9th row^ike the 7th row. loth row — 10 treble, * 10 chain, miss 10 loops, 10 treble over the next block. Repeat from*. iith row — begin with the first pattern row and repeat as often as necessary. When the antimacassar is long enough, work one row of treble, putting one treble into every loop. If you have not drawn in the end of cotton at the beginning and end of each row as you have gone on, you must do so now ; but it is much less trouble to draw it in and finish off each row as you go on. After each end is made firm, cut off the superfluous cotton, which is not wanted. Now work a round of double crochet over the ends of cotton, and across the top and bottom of the antimacassar as well so as to make all even. It is now ready for the border, which can be of any pattern and either worked on the antimacas.sar direct, or sewn on afterwards. STAR PATTERN ANTIMACASSAR. Worked with Shetlan.l or Andalusian wool and bone crochet needle N 2 :2. This as nice light pattern for shawls and wraps. it is also suitable for bread-tray cloths and looking-glass cloths, forwnich purposes use Evans's crochet cotton No. 12 and a fine steel needle. Commence with chain for the length required, ist row — miss 2 chain stitch es' i treble in the third and 2 more treble worked in next consecutive chain stitches, * 5 chain, miss 5 of the foundation, 5 consecutive double crochet, 6 chain, miss 5 of the foundation, 4 consecutive treble. Repeat from *. 2nd rorf — 3 chain to turn, I treble over the first treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 4 consecutive treble, * 6 chain, 3 double crochet on the three centre double crochet stitches of last row, 6 chain, 4 treble worked so that the last of the four comes over the first treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 4 consecutive treble. Repeat from *. At the end of the row work 2 chain, I treble on the chain that turned. 3rd row — 3 chain to turn, i long treble under the 2 chain, * 4 chain, 4 consecutive treble com- mencing on the last one of the four trebles of previous row, 4 chain, i long treble in the centre one of the three double crochet stitches of last row, 4 chain, 4 treble worked so that the last of the four comes over the first treble of previous row, 4 chain, 1 long treble under the two chain of last row. Repeat from *. End the row with one treble on the chain that turned. 4th row — 3 double crochet (i on the treble, i on the long treble, and I on the first of the chain stitches of last row), * 6 chain, 4 consecutive treble commencing on the last one of the four treble of previous row, 2 chain, 4 treble worked so that the last of the four comes over the first treble of previous row, 6 chain, 3 double crochet (i on the long treble and i on the chain stitch each side). Repeat from *. 5th row — 4 consecutive double crochet, * 6 chain, 4 treble (2 on the two chain of last row and i on each treble stitch each side) 6 chain, 5 double crochet, (3 on the three double crochet stitches of last row and i in the chain stitch each side). Repeat from * ^\'ork 4 double crochet at the end of the row. 6th row — 3 double crochet, * 6 chain, 4 treble worked so that the last of the four comes over the first treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 4 consecutive treble, 6 chain, 3 double crochet on the three centre double crochet stitches of last row. Repeat from * 7th row — 3 chain to turn, i long treble on the centre one of the three double crochet stitches of last row, * 4 chain, 4 treble worked so that the last of the four comes over the first treble of previous row, 4 chain, I long treble under the two chain, 4 chain. 4 consecutive treble commencing on the last treble of the four of previous row, 4 chain, i long treble on the centre one of the three double crochet stitches of last row. Repeat from *. Work i treble at the end of the row. 8th low — 3 chain to turn, i treble in between the treble and the long treble of last row, 2 chain, * 4 treble worked so that the last of the four comes over the first treble of pre- vious row, 6 chain, 3 double crochet (i over THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. the long treble of last row and i in the chain stitch each side), 6 chain, 4 consecutive treble commencing on the last one of the four trebles of previous row, 3 chain. Repeat from * Work 2 treble at the end of the row. 9th row — 3 chain to turn, 3 treble worked so that the last of the three comes over the first treble of previous row, * 6 chain, 5 double crochet (3 on the three double crochet stitches of last row and i in the chain stitch each side), 6 chain, 4 treble (2 on the two chain of last row and i on each treble stitch each side). Repeat from * Repeat the pattern from the second row. STAR PATTERN. Suitable for Table-Cover or Anti- macassar. Materials : — 20 cotton, or finer or coarser if you like. Make 4 chain, unite into a round, ist round — 6 chain, I treble into the hole, * 3 chain, i treble into the hole, repeat from * until you have 5 holes, 3 chain, join to the 3rd chain of the 6 you first made. There must be 6 holes. 2nd round — slip stitch into the 1st hole, 4 chain, slip the needle out of the loop and twist the chain, then slip the needle in again, work 3 treble into the same hole, * 3 chain, 4 treble into the next hole. Repeat from * until you have 6 sets. Make 3 chain and join to the first set in the 2nd round. You should have 6 holes. 3rd round — slipstitch across the top of the 4 treble (to which you have just joined the 3 chain) into the next hole. It is the first you come to. Now make 6 chain, twist them as before, 5 long treble into the same hole. You wind the cotton round the needle twice for long treble, * 7 chain, 6 long treble into the next hole. Repeat from *. You will have 6 sets of long treble, make 7 chain join to the 6th chain of the 6 you made at the beginning of your first set of treble in this round. 4tli round — 6 chain, twist them as before, * l long treble into the next loop, repeat from * until you have a long over each long in the set, 6 chain, i double, into the middle one of the 7 chain in the previous round, 6 chain, I long treble over the next long treble. Repeat from the first * in the 4th round. These stars require no crosses to join them. They fit into one another very nicely. They can be sewn or crocheted together. Most ladies like to make a good number of them, and then have a sewing opportunity for putting them together. DIAMOND ANTIMACASSAR. Wool or Cotton. The model is in cotton. Nos. 10, 12, or 16 will do according to taste. Make a chain the length of the antimacassar. You must break otf at the end of each row. Ist row — I treble into the 1st loop, * 2 chain, miss 2 loops, I treble into the 3rd loop from the last treble, repeat from * to the end of the row. The number of holes should divide by 8. 2nd row — as the first. 3rd row — begin the pattern, work* 8 holes in the usual way, now make 7 treble, all into the loop into which you put the last treble of the 8th hole, which will give you 8 treble all in one loop, now catch the 1st and last treble of the 8 together with a slip-stitch. This gives you a ball of treble. Repeat from * to the end. You should have 8 holes over when you have done the last ball if you can manage it. 4th row — 7 holes, I ball, 2 holes, i ball, * 6 holes, I ball, 2 holes, i ball. Repeat from *. The balls should come one on each side of the ball in the previous row. 5th row — 6 holes, * I ball, 2 holes, i ball, 2 holes, i ball, 4 90 holes, repeat from *. The middle ball in this case should come exactly over the ist ball you made. 6th row — 5 holes, i ball, 2 holes, I ball, 2 holes, I ball, * 2 holes, i ball, repeat from *. 7th row — like the 5th. 8th row — like the 4th. 9th row — like the 3rd. loth and nth row — plain like the ist and 2nd. Do a row of close treble, th.-it is, I treble to every loop. Various edgings can be put down each side for a finish or the ends fringed, — a knot of fringe into each hole. If you prefer you can take the edging quite round the antimacassar stripe. In this case you must work double crochet all round before doing the treble. The double crochet will enable you to work in the ends of cotton at the beginning and finishing of each row. Keep the comers flat. A very pretty finishing border will be found below. The stripes can be sewn together when done, or you can ciochet the points of the border together as you proceed with the work. The above is an effective pattern with rather coarse cotton, and could all be done in wool. Colours — fawn and blue, crimson and brown, or faded green and golden brown. The stripes edged with black, and a simple scallop border; a less number of treble than eight would pro- bably be needed for the balls in wool. GOOD QUILT EDGING, Can be Made any Depth. In No. 8 cotton this edge would perhaps be 5 inches deep. The model is 4 inches, but is Avorked in finer cotton than No. 8, about No. 12. Make 23 chain. Turn. 1st row— work 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, all into the 6th loop, * miss 6 loops and work 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, into the 7 th loop. Repeat from * once only. You will have 3 sets. There are 3 chain left over. Now make 2 chain, i treble into the last one of the 3 chain. 2nd row — turn 5 chain, i treble over the 2nd treble, 2 chain, work a set or picot of 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the middle hole of the 1st set of treble in the previous row ; * work another set in the middle hole of the next set of treble in the previous row. Repeat from *. 3rd row — turn, 5 chain, work i set or picot, in the middle hole of the ist picot in the previous row ; * work a picot in the next middle hole, and repeat from *. When you have worked 3 picots,* make 2 chain, miss 2 loops, I treble in the next loop (which should be a treble). Repeat from * to the end of the row. 4th row — 5 chain (not too tight), miss 2 loops, I treble in the next loop (all treble stitches in the holes should come over treble stitches in the open part), * 2 chain, miss 2 loops, I treble over the next loop. Repeat from * until you have put a trelDle into the 1st treble of the ist picot you come to ; now, make 2 chain, and work a picot as usual in the middle hole of the ist picot, * now work a picot into the middle hole of the next picot. Repeat from*. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until your point is as deep as you wish it to be. There are 8 rows in the pattern. When you have finished a sufficient number of points to make the requisite length, finish the edging as follows. Begin at the side of the points and work 5 double crochet in the 1st hole, * 5 double crochet in the next. Repeat from*. When you come to the middle hole, * put 10 double crochet into that one. Then go on with 5 double crochet in each hole till you come to the middle one again. Repeat from * to the end of your piece of work. To make a firm heading to sew your edging to the work, work 5 treble into a hole * 3 chain, 5 treble in the next hole. Repeat from * to the end of the row. This is a handsome border, is easy to work, and washes and wears well. LONGWAY EDGING. Suitable for Border for Antima- cassar, Toilet-Covers, or Under- linen. Cotton according to the purpose for which it is designed. Always begin at the same end. 1st row — i double crochet, * i double crochet into the next loop. Repeat from * until you have 15 double crochet; 5 chain, miss 5 loops, I double crochet into the ncKt loop, and repeat from the ist * in the ist row. 2nd row — i double crochet into the 2nd double crochet of the ist 15 in the previous row, * i double crochet into the next loop. Repeal from * until you have 13 double crochet over the 15 in the previous row. The 13 should be exactly in the middle of the 1 5. 5 chain, i double crochet into the hole formed by the 5 chain in the previous row, 5 chain, i double crochet into the 2nd of the next 1 5 of the previous row. Repeat from the 1st * in the 2nd row. 3rd row — 11 double crochet exactly in the middle of the 13 in the previous row ; * 5 chain, i double into the ist hole, 5 chain, i double into the next hole, 5 chain double over the 2nd of the next 13 double crochet in the previous row, * I double into the next loop and repeat from * until you have 1 1 double crochet over the 13 as before. Repeat from the ist * in the 3rd row. 4th row — 9 double crochet over the 1 1 in the previous row, 5 chain, i double into the 1st ihole, * 4 chain, i double into the next hole, repeat from * once. 5 chain, I double into the 2nd of the next II in the previous row. There will be 4 holes. 5th row — there will be 7 double crochet over the 9, and 5 holes over the 4 in the previous row. 6th row — there will be 5 double crochet and 6 holes. 7th row — there will be 3 double crochet and 7 holes. 8th row — i double into the middle of the 3 double crochet in the previous row, * 5 chain, i double into the 1st hole, * 5 chain, i double into the next hole. Repeat from * until you have 7 holes, 5 chain, i double into the centre one of the next 3 double in the previous row. Repeat from the ist *. 9th row — * i double into the 1st hole of apoint (i.e., the hole which is on the left of the i double which was in the centre of the 3), I double into the next hole, * I double into the same hole. Repeat from * until you have 7 double in the 2nd hole, which is the one you are working in. Go on working 7 double in each hole until you have THE FANCY WORK-BASKET 6 holes filled with 7 double crochet each, i double into the next hole to correspond with the 1st hole of the point. Repeat from the 1st * in the 9th row. loth row — *i double crochet into the little hole between the 2 double which are in separate holes in the previous row, 2 chain, i double into the middle one of the 7 double in the ist hole in the previous row, * 5 chain, I double into the middle one of the next 7 double, and repeat from * until you have reached the middle one of the last 7 in the point, 2 chain, and repeat from the ist * in the 10th row. nth row — I double into the ist hole of the point formed by the 2 chain in the previous row, * 7 double into the next hole, repeat from * until 5 holes are filled with 7 double each. This brings you to the small hole formed by the 2 chain, i double into that hole, and repeat from the 1st * in the nth row. When nicely pulled out, this edging is worth the trouble, as it is good-looking and strong. AN ELEGANT AND SIMPLE LACE PATTERN. Make a chain about a fourth longer than you wish the shawl to be. No. n or 12 hook is proper, and Shetland, Andalusian, or fingering, or single Berlin, according to taste and the warmth required. Having made your chain, make a treble into the 4th from the hook, * i treble into the next loop, 4 chain, i treble into the next loop, and again I treble into the next, miss 4 loops, i treble into the next. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row — 4 chain to turn, miss 2 loops, I treble into the first chain, * i treble into the next chain, 4 chain, t treble into the next chain, and a treble into the last of the 4 in that picot. Miss 4 loops, work i treble into the first one of the 4 chain, in the centre of the next picot. Repeat from *. Every row like the 2nd row. Border — 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble into the hole made by the 4 chain which were made to turn each row, * 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, all into the next hole. Repeat from *. 2nd row — 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, all into the hole made by the I chain in the middle of the first picot, * 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble into the middle of the next picot. Repeat from *. 3rd row — I double crochet into the middle of a picut, * * I chain, i long treble into the next picot, * I chain, l long treble into the same picot. Repeat from * 8 times more, giving you 10 long treble altogether, i chain, I double crochet in the next picot, and repeat from * *. Ath row — I double crochet over a double crochet in the previous row, * * 5 chain, i double into the first of the 5, i chain, I double crochet into the hole between the first long treble and the next one, * 5 chain, I double into the 1st of the 5, I chain, I double crochet into the next hole. Repeat from * till you have a little picot over every long treble in the scallop but the last, then 5 chain join to the 1st of the 5, I chain, I double crochet over the next double crochet. You have now worked over one scallop, and must go on and work over the next. To do this go back to * * and work on all round the shawl. OPEN WORK EDGING. For Antimacassar, Toilets, or Quilt. If you are working upon a chain, you had better work a row of treble (one treble into each loop) ; but if you work directly upon some piece of work you can omit the treble. 1st row after the treble — i treble into a loop, * 2 chain, miss 2 loops, i treble into the next loop. Repeat from * 2nd row — * i 91 long treble, 4 chain, i long treble, 4 chain, i long treble, 4 chain, i long treble all into one hole. You will have 4 long treble and 3 holes. (A long treble, you will remember, is made by winding the cotton round the needle ' twice, putting the needle into a loop, drawing the cotton through, and then drawing it through 2 loops, then through 2 again, until all are work.?d off). You have finished i picot, miss 2 holes, and repeat from the first * in the second row. 3rd row — i ordinary treble into the first hole, * 2 chain, i ordinary treble into the next hole, 2 chain, i ordinary treble into the next hole, 5 chain, I ordinary treble into the next hole. Repeat from *. 4th row — I longtreble, 4 chain, l long treble, 4 chain, I longtreble, 4 chain, i long treble all into the middle one of the 3 treble which you have over each picot. This brings the new picot exactly over the picot in the last row but one. Now put * I long treble, 4 chain, i longtreble, 4 chain, l long treble, 4 chain, i long treble all into the middle one of the next set of 3 treble which you have over the next picot in the previous row. Now repeat from *. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until the edging is deep enough. When it is deep enough work i row like the 3rd row, but instead of working the row like the 4th row as usual, work 6 double crochet into the ist hole, 6 double crochet into the 2nd hole, 6 double crochet into the next hole. You have now 3 sets of 6 double crochet, each set in one of the holes in the ist picot. Now work * 6 double crochet into the next hole. Repeat from * all along. Be sure to keep the corners quite flat, by putting more picots when needful. MIGNARDISE EDGE (GORDON BRAID). One double into a loop, * i double into the next loop but one. Repeat from * until you have 6 double crochet. Now make 2 chain and turn the braid, l double into the next loop, that is, the next loop on the other side of the braid, and repeat from the first *. 2nd row — to make the edging : I double into the next loop on the other side of the braid opposite to the one you put your first double into, * 3 chain, miss i loop, I double into the next loop. Repeat from * until you have 5 holes. In working the double of the 5th and last hole, put the needle through the usual loop and also through the opposite loop which is really the 1st loop of the 2nd point. Repeat from the first * in the 2nd row. 3rd row— 3 double crochet into a hole, * 3 chain, 3 double crochet into the same hole, 3 double crochet into the next hole, and repeat from *. 4th row — foundation : miss 2 loops, I treble into the 3rd loop, * I chain, i double into the next loop, repeat from * until you have 3 double, I chain, i treble, i chain, i treble into the 3rd loop of the next point, and repeat from the first * in the 4th row. 5 th row — I treble in the ist loop of the row just done, * I chain, miss I loop, I treble into the next. Repeat from *. If this is too close, for the last row of foundation do this way — l treble over the ist treble in the previous row, * I treble in the next loop, I treble into the next treble, 7 chain, miss 7 loops, I treble into the next treble. Repeat from *. If you wish a still simpler finish, l treble, * 3 chain, miss 3 loops, I treble to the 4th loop, and repeat from *. CROCHET EDGING. Materials : — 6 yards of mignardise braid and I ball of No. 20 crochet cotton, fine steel hook. Fasten on into a picot of braid with I single, 12 chain, miss a picot, single into next, 2 chain, single into next, 12 chain, miss a picot, double into next, 6 chain, miss a picot, single into next, 1 1 chain, miss 2 picots, single into next, 3 chain, turn and work i double into 3rd of the 11 chain, counting from the picot into which it was worked, * 4 chain, miss 2 picots, i single into next, 3 chain, i double into 3rd chain from picot. Repeat from * 3 times more. You will have 5 sets of these trebles. I chain, i double into 7th stitch of the 11 chain. This closes your trebles together. 3 chain, miss 2 picots, single into next 3 chain, i double into centre of the 6 chain on opposite side of scallop, made before the 11 chain ; 3 chain, miss I picot, I single into next, 3 chain, I single into 9th of the 12 chain on opposite side. Repeat from commencement till all the braid is worked. For the other side, work 3 chain, I single into II successive picots, I double into every picot 17 times, i double into last of the last 3 chain to draw the 17 doubles together. Repeat all along the other side of braid. New Edition. Just Out. Price Twopence. HOW TO DANCE. By an M.C., giving the Steps and Figures of all tlio Now and Country Dances, with Dictionary of French Terms u.sed in Dancing, Illustrations of Bail-Room Dresses, Hairdrcssing, Ac. Post free, Three Stamps. Poeket Edition, handsomely bound, sent free by post in envelope for 7 stamps. B, Cartwright, 8, Johnson's Court, London, E.C NARROW LACE. Materials : — Fancy antimacassar braid, and No. 24 Coats's crochet cotton, ist row, double crochet into ist loop of braid, * 3 chain, double crochet into next loop, 5 chain, and make picot back into 1st row of the 5 chain, double crochet into next loop of braid, 3 chain, double crochet into next loop, 6 chain, miss I loop on braid, double crochet into next, and repeat from * for length required. 2nd row — double crochet into ist open hole, 7 chain, picot back into 2nd of the 7, 6 chain, picot back ist of the 6,6 chain and picot back into ist of the 6, i chain, double crochet 3rd open hole of the last row, passing over the picot, 3 chain, double crochet under the 6 chain of previous row, 6 chain and picot back into the ist of the 6, 3 chain, repeat from commencement of 2nd row for length required. For the heading, i treble into each loop of braid, with i chain between each treble. A PRETTY EDGING. Rather fine crochet cotton is best. IMake 10 chain, turn, i double crochet into the 6th stitch, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the loth loop, or stitch. 2nd row — 5 chain, I double crochet into the 1st hole, 4 chain, I double crochet into the next hole, 5 chain, slipstitch into the first chain you made. This makes a hole across the end of your THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. work and forms part of the top of your edging. 4th row — turn, work 8 double crochet into the hole just made by the 5 chain across the end of your work, 4 double crochet into the next hole, and 4 double crochet into the next. You now have i picot. 5th row — 5 chain, i double crochet into the 4th loop, 4 chain, miss 3 loops, i double crochet into the 4th loop. 6th row — 5 chain, I double crochet, into the ist hole, 4 chain, I double crochet into the next hole. 7th row — 5 chain, i double crochet into the ist hole, 4 chain, i double crochet into the next hole, 5 chain, slipstitch into the 8th double crochet in the previous picot counting from the straight or foundation side. If preferred, you can slipstitch in between the 8th and 9th double crochet stitches in the previous picot. This latter plan would perhaps be closer and firmer. 8th row — turn, work 8 double crochet in the ist hole, 4 double crochet in the next, and 4 in the next hole. Repeat from the 5th row. PRETTY SHORT-WAY EDGING. Cotton, No. 16, 20, 24, or 30. JVTake 5 chain and unite into a round. 4 chain, i treble into the hole, 2 chain, i treble, 2 chain, I treble, all into the hole. 2nd row — 5 Cnain, turn, I treble into the centre one of fhe 3 holes in the previous row, 2 chain, I tireble, 2 chain, i treble, 2 chain, i treble, all into the centre hole. There should now be 4 treble and 3 holes as before. 3rd row — like the 2nd. Every row alike. Proceed in this manner until you have a sufficient length. Y^ou now put on the heading and foundation. To do the heading, .work 5 double into the first hole on one side of the work, * 3 chain, 5 double into the same hole, 5 double into the next hole, and repeat from *. For the foundation — I double into a hole, * 5 chain. I double into the next hole. Repeat from *. If you make the chain tight, you will need an extra one at the turns of each row, and in the foundation chain. SIMPLE NARROW EDGING. This is quickly made, as there are only 2 rows to work, but quite pretty and sufficient for many things. Materials : — Rather fine wavy braid, cotton No. 20 or 24 to suit the braid. 1st row — I double into a point, * i treble into the next point, * 2 chain, i treble into the same point. Repeat from * twice. This will give you 4 treble and 3 holes, i double into the next point and repeat from the first * in the Ist row. 2nd row — I double into a point, * 3 chain, I double into the next point. Repeat from *. This is on the other edge of the braid. This is really very pretty, especially remembering how little work there is. BORDER FOR SHAWL OR CLOTH. Commence on one side of the piece of work and work all round, increasing as required for the fullness at the comers, ist row — work alternately i treble, miss i stitch, I chain. 2nd row — all plain double crochet. 3rd row — I double crochet,* 7 chain, miss 5 of the double crochet stitches of previous row, I double crochet in the sixth ; repeat from *. 4th row — I double crochet on the double crochet stitch of last row, 3 chain, 3 treble in the centre stitch of the 7 chain of last row, 3 chain ; repeat. 5th row — i double crochet in the centre one of the 3 treble stitches of previous row, 7 chain ; repeat. 6th row — I double- crochet on the double crochet stitch of last row, 3 chain, 3 treble in the centre stitch of the 7 chain of last row 92 3 chain ; repeat. 7th row — i double crochet on the double crochet stitch of previous row, 3 chain, i double crochet on the first of the 3 treble stitches, 3 chain, i double crochet on the second of the 3 treble stitches, 5 chain; another double crochet on the second of the 3 treble stitches, 3 chain, i double crochet on the third of the 3 treble stitches of pre- vious row, 3 chain ; repeat. CROCHET GIMP TRIMMING. The above can be adapted for a variety of purposes according to its fineness and the material used. In fine crochet cotton, it does for the foundation of an edging for children's garments : in moderately fine knitting cotton for toilet covers or a border to a quilt ; in wool it serves for trimmings ; and firmly worked in fleecy or double Berlin, is is excel- lent for Lambrequins, etc. It is quickly done and simple. Make 4 chain, turn, work, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the 4th from the 'hook, that is, the first you made. 2nd row — I chain, 3 treble, l chain, 3 treble into the 'hole of the picot in the previous row. Repeat the 2nd row all along, making the chain rather tightly to keep it firm. A heading made by working 2 double crochet into the hole at the edge of the scallop, * 3 or 4 chain, or as many as seem necess.iry to make the work flat, 2 double crochet into the next hole formed by tlie one chain at the turning. Repeat from *. For the edge either make a firm scallop, or do it thus : — I double into the first hole, * 7 chain, i double crochet into the same hole. Go on making 7 chain and i double crochet till you have 3 or 5 little points in the one hole, make chain enough to reach to the next picot easily, make a double crochet and repeat from * all along. The same as above does well for toilet covers, etc. The same pattern worked in wool is quite pretty for small baskets with a little lace and libbon intermixed. CROCHET D'OYLEY. Cut out your d'oyley, either oval or round, in fine diaper, hem very neatly, and sew a piece of wavy braid to work into, ist row— 5 chain, i double crochet into every loop of braid. 2nd and 3rd rows — the same into every hole. 4th row — i double crochet into a hole, * g chain, i double crochet into the next hole but one, repeat from *. 5th and 6th rows — the same as the 4th. 7th row — 1 long treble (winding the cotton round the needle 3 times and then drawing it through 2 loops at a time till all are off,) into a hole, * 9 chain, i long treble into the next, repeat from * all round. 8th and 9th rows — like the 4th. loth row — 2 treble, 7 chain, 2 treble into a hole, * 2 treble, 7 chain, 2 treble into the next hole, repeat from *. nth row — 3 double crochet into a hole, *9 chain, 3 double crochet into the next, repeat from *. Break off This is rather a wide border, and wants pulling out when " got up " after washing. WARM CROCHET RUG. For those who cannot knit the following crochet rug will be pleasant work. We have given a diagram as being an easier way of explaining. The oblong centre was worked in tricot, in garnet, 2 and 3 ; the stripes on each side of the centre were in pale blue, 5 and 8 ; the stripes at the ends of the centre oblong in pale blue, the corner blocks, 4, 6, 7, and 9, were yellow. The outer stripes, 10, 12, 14, and 16, were garnet like the centre, and the corner blocks can be in olive or yellow, 17 10 II 16 7 8 9 12 3 1 2 4 5 6 15 14 13 as liked best by the maker. Scallop or fringe round. Fingering wool and No. 8tricothook, or fleecy wool and No. 4 hook make good work. In the centre oblong, which is about 12 inches by 24, should be worked a mono- gram or bunch of daisies, or easily worked flowers. In each corner block some small spray, and along each side a geometrical design of stars or diamonds. Any wool-work pattern can be worked on tricot and with a little management ; Kensington work can be done to look very handsome and take very little doing comparatively. This rug is smaller than the knitted one, being 42 inches wide and 54 long. The centre oblong (garnet) is 12 inches wide, 24 long ; the side strips (pale blue) 6 indies wide, 24 inches long, the end strips 6 inches wide and 12 inches long, the corner blocks 6 inches square (yellow). For the outside bordering strips (garnet), the 2 side strips are 9 inches wide and i yard long, the end stripes (garnet), 9 inches wide and 24 inches long. The corner blocks, 9 inches square (yellow or olive). When all are done sew together, or if you like you can sew together as 3'ou go on, so that you can see that your work is right as each piece is done. The above is good for a sofa. PLAIN CROCHET RUG. Make a chain the length required in dark wool. 1st row^treble into every loop. 2nd row — treble in the first loop,* 1 chain, miss a loop, treble in the next loop. Repeat from *. Break off the wool at the end of the row. Every row like the second row. Finish at the other side by a row of treble such as you started with, and fringe or scallop round. If the work is done evenly, and the colours judiciously chosen, you havea very pretty sofa or spring or autumn rug. It is hardly warm enough for winter. The colour of the wool should be changed every row, and shaded from dark to light, and then to dark again. Any colour can be used to match the room. If there is no necessity to match, olive and shades of pink are pretty, greys and crimsons, yellows (golden yellows) and blues. I know that there is nothing new in the above colours, but if they are prettier than newer ideas it is all right. Each individual can choose according to their taste. Scallop or fringe round. HOW TO MAKE UNDERCLOTHING By Mrs. LEACH. -Giving; full explanations, with over 140 illusti'atioiiS, of how to cut out, make up and trim, with quantity of materials required for Oliemises, Drawers. Nightdresses Combination Garments, and every description of Under- garment for Ladies and Children of all ages, Price 2d. Of all Newsagents, or post free, ?W., from Mrs. Lfach, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.G. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. LAMP MATS, AND DAISY p-RINGE. V^ery handsome mats can be made by crocheting over blind cord or very even string, and then making a border of daisy fringe. To proceed for the centre of the mat — take the cord and sew one end into a very small round, crochet thickly round it so that the cord is quite hidden, and go on crochet- ing round and round, always working over the cord and into the back of the loops of the previous row. The work must be close, and you must increase when necessary by putting two into one stitch, so as to keep it perfectly flat. When large enough cut off the cord, and work over the end very closely, then break off the wool and prepare the fringe. If you do not wish to use cord, double crochet firmly worked will do very well, but it is neither quite so stiff nor so handsome. For the colour of the centre, black or any other suitable colour to match or harmonise with the border. Double BerUn fills up best. D.\isY Fringe for Above. Take several strands of wool, the number according to the thickness, 4 or 5 of double Berlin, and 8 or 10 of single. Each strand must be 2, 3, or 4 yards long, in proportion to the quantity you need of each colour. Lay all the strands evenly together. Now take a long needleful of wool, either in a wool needle or a tatting shuttle, and tie one end of it round the strands of wool at one end, about A an inch from the end. Tie it firmly. Now tie the strands of wool again, about f or I inch away from the first tie, with the same piece of wool. Go on in this manner, tying it at regular intervals. When your needleful is finished, join another to it by a knot, and go on until all your length of strands is tied. It will now present the appearance of figure i. Now take scissors Fig. I. and cut the strands of wool, taking care not to cut the strand you used to tie the rest. Cut them e.'iactly half-way between the ties, making a string of small tufts or daisies, as in figure 2. Those in the engraving are not very full, they would be prettier rather fuller. Single Berlin is considered to make the "fluffiest" daisies; about 10 strands are often used. The fringe is arranged in bunches of loops according to the colour, and sewn on to the centre with cotton. When sewn on and shaken out, the bunches fall into a pretty and full border. By means of a little care and taste the border can be varied in many ways. Make a bunch by winding the fringe several times round 3 or 4 of your fingers, being guided by the size of the mat as to the length of loop in the bunches. Another Way. Shades of dark green, and white daisies arranged amongst the fringe. A good centre for this would be a piece of cardboard covered with old crimson velveteen or any piece of crimson cloth or velvet. Cover another piece of cardboard with lining, then 5ew the two together round the edge. Then sew on the green fringe and put in the daisies. It must be a rich dark crimson, and the greens must be shades of the sage or faded greens, unless the more decided colours are preferred. The daisies could have pink centres, to lighten all up. Another Way. Make a centre as before. Have black daisy fringe arranged all round the edge of the mat, then arrange dark blue, and go on putting lighter shades till the border is full and your light shade is at the top. A pale blue and deep crimson look well together and very rich if of suitable shades. TEA COSY. The following suggestions for a cosy will be found good ones for all ordinary purposes. Take single or double Berlin wool, and a hook to match for size. Hook No. 7 for double, and No. 10 or II for the single Berlin. Which size of wool is entirely a matter of taste. The single is finer, and admits of more shades being used, but as a cosy is a tolerably large article, the hand- somer ribs of the double wool look very well, and are more quickly worked. Measure the depth of the cosy at its deepest part. Make a chain slightly longer than that measurement, that will admit of the neces- sary turnings in the making up. 1st row — work ordinary double crochet into every chain. Break off at the end of the row. Work a second row of ordinary double crochet on the top of the first, taking up in the usual manner the back part of the stitch. Always break off at the end of every row, and begin again. All rows are like the second. You need not mind fastening" off or drawing in the ends of wool, either at the beginning or end of the rows, as they will be disposed of in the making up of the cosy. When you have done a piece suf- ficiently long to make one side of the article, break off and work a piece to correspond for the other side, and then mnke up in the usual way. Do not cut the crochet before stitching, but mark the place where it is to be stitched. When it is sewn and made firm, cut the edges, leaving a good margin and overcasting them very firmly. Finish by lining with several layers of wadding, and quilted cashmere or silk, and when all else is done put on a good cord, making a small loop or two of the cord at the top of the cosy to lift it by. You turn up the crochet when you are making it up just as if it were cloth or any other material which is used for such a purpose. SILK BEADED PURSE. The purse can be very easily made in crochet. Make the purse 11 or 12 inches long. It will take, perhaps, 125 or 135 chain to do this, as the chain take up in the work- ing. Thread a skein of silk with the beads before commencing. ist row — treble into evei-y chain, taking up a bead to every treble for about 25 or 30 treble at the beginning and end of the row only. 2nd row — the same as the ist. You cut the silk at the end of every row, and begin again, so as to get the beads on the right side of the purse in every row. The reason no beads are put in the centre is that the rings may slide. When about 32 or 4 inches are done, break off and sew up, leaving about 3 inches in the middle open. Gather the ends firmly, and finish off with a tassel of beads. To put on the bead when working, make the treble until you are ready to draw the silk through the last 2 loops. Now push the bead close up to the work, and then draw the silk t^irough the last 2 loops on the needle. About 4 skeins is the general quantity of silk, and the quan- tity of beads varies. Two bunches would probably be enough. You only thread a quarter of them on to the first skein to begin with. No. 17 needle and moderately coarse purse-twist will be found useful and pleasant to work. Of course >ou must cither buy tassels or make them of strings of beads, so that when you buy your beads you had better state at the shop what you intend doing, as that must guide the people as to the quantity of beads they recommend. Go to a good shop. FANCY COLLARETTE- This extremely pretty collar forms a good finish to the toilette for afternoon wear, and is very inexpensively made by the aid of a little patience. Materials required : — i doz. yards of cream Mignardise braid, A skein 1 f cream crochet cotton No. 28. Steel hook No. 4. Commence with making the waved braid. Measure a piece the size round neck, leaving about an inch at end. Now work i single into 1st p'cot at other end, leaving the neck piece unworked for the present. Be sure to work your single verj' securely. Pick up the 8lh picot from where your single is, draw cotton through this and the loop on yourncedle. Make l chain. Now insert needle in loop that lies parallel — or on a line— on the ether side of braid, with the picot just worked, then insert needle in vndcr side of Sth picot from the one you have your needle in, and draw your cotton through rill the loops at once—that is through the 2 picots of braid and the loop of cotton on your needle. Make i chain. Now insert needle in picot that lies parallel with the Sib picot just worked, then in under side of 8th picot from this, and draw colton through. Make i chain. Repeat this till you have done a good length, viz., work i chain 1 into every Sth picot of braid and the picot that is on a level with it on other side of braid. When you think you have worked enough, leave off, but do not cut your braid or break off cotton. Take another skein and fasten veiy securely into 4th picot of neck piece from where you first joined en your cotton for the waved braid, then insert needle in 4th picot from where ist chain was made of first wave of braid, * 7 chain, i single into top picot of next wave, 8 chain, i single into top picot of 3rd wave, 3 chain, 2 treble into same picot, 2 treble into top picot of 4lh wave, 3 chain, i single into same picot, 8 chain, l single in 5th wa\e (ahvays working into top or 4 th picot from the chain tliat made the wave) 3 chain, 2 treble into same, 2 double treble into 6th, 4 chain, i single into same, 2 chain, i single into 7th, Sth, 9th, loth, nth, I2th, and 13th waves, 4 chain, i single between the double and single trebles in 6th wave, 2 double treble into same picot, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. ENLARGED DESIGN, viz., the 13th wave, 2 single treble into 14th wave, 3 chain, i single into same picot, 4 chain, i single into centre of 8 chain that goes Irom 4th to 5th wave, 4 chain, i single into 15th wave, 3 chain, 2 treble into same picot, I single between the 2 sets of treble on 3rd and 4th waves, 2 treble into i5th wave, 3 chain, I single into same. 3 chain, i single into middle of 8 chain over 2nd and 3rd wave, 3 chain, i single into 17th wave, 3 chain, i single into centre of 7 chain that goes from ist to 2nd wave. Then 4 chain, miss 5 picots on neck piece from where you began to work your wave;, i single into 6th, 4th chain, i single into top picot of i8th wave. Miss 5 picots of neck piece, 1 single into 6th, 4 chain, i single into 19th wave. Now go back to * and work like this till you have worked up your neck piece. Fasten off very securely and sew the braid neatly on the wrong side. If you have not made enough waved braid at first, you can easily work some more when you find you are coming to the end of it. You now proceed to catch your scallops together, which is done as follows :— Begin at left front and count 13 waves of braid on the nutside, join cotton into the top loop of 14th, 6 chain, i single into 15th, 5 chain, I single into i6th, 2 chain, i single into 17th, put your needle through picots of iSth, 19th, 20th, 2ist, and 22nd waves, draw cotton through all at once, 2 chain, i single into 23rd, 2 chain, i single into centre of 5 chain on 14th wave, 2 chain, I single into 24th, 3 chain, I single into centre of 6 chain on 15th wave, 3 chain,! single into centre of 6 chain on 15th wave, 3 chain, i single into 25th, break off securely. Each scallop must be joined separately. Now proceed to do the upper part of neck. Make a piece of waved braid, the length of your plain neck piece. Fasten your cotton into ist picot of neck piece, 3 chain, I single into top picots of ist wa\e, 3 chain, miss 4 picots of neck, i single into 5th, 3 chain, i single into top picot of next wave, 3 chain, miss 4 picots of neck piece, i single in 5th, repeat to end, working into every wave and the 5th loop of neck piece, with 3 chain between each till all is done. Fasten off neatly. For top edge lake a piece of braid, fasten it on waved braid. Now miss 3 picots in new piece from your joining and work I treble, miss 3 picots, i treble in next. Repeat this twice more, till you have 4 treble. Join with a single into top of ist 94. treble, * 3 chain, I single into top of next wave, 3 chain, i single into next picot of top braid to that which holds the 4th treble, 3 chain, l single into top of next wave, 3 chain. The next stitch is somewhat difficult, as it holds the scallops together on the other side. Insert your needle in next picot of top piece to that you worked your last 3 chain in, then put needle wnder braid, and pick up the next picot higher up on the other side of braid, to the one level with that which holds your needle. Now come down again towards be- ginning of work, and place your needle over and insert in 5th picot from the 2nd one on your needle. You thus have 3 picots and a loop of cotton on your needle. Draw cotton through all at once. Miss 3 picots and work I treble 3 times. The 3 chain you made before drawing your scallops together answers for i treble. Draw the 4 trebles together and repeat from * till neck is finished. Fasten off very neatly. This is really a pretty and uncommon collar which anyone might wear. The directions may seem rather formidable at first, but by care- fully following them out, they can easily be mastered. '1 he collar is, however, somewhat difficult to describe. You may perhaps waste some braid at first, as the beauty of them is to look fresh and lacy, but never mind, try again. GARTERS FOR BOYS OR GIRLS. Many mothers find the garter question a troublesome one. The following plan may not be known to all, and as it is a very suc- cessful and inexpensive one, we give it : — Make a loop of a piece of tape about 4 inches in length, and sew it to the top of the stock- ing, fixing it in the middle of the side. Now put another loop on the other side of the stocking to match the one you sewed on first. Put 2 loops on the second stocking in the same way. Next sew a good large button stoutly to each side of the child's stays ; or, if for a little boy, to his waistcoat. Lastly, take a small piece of garter elastic and sew a button to one end, and sew a loop of tape to, or else make a buttonhole in, the other end. Now button your strap on to the button you sewed on the stays, and button your stocking to the end of the strap. The elastic should just be long enough to reach comfortably (not loosely) from the top of the stocking, when it is pro- perly pulled up, to the button on the stays. On going to bed, unbutton the loop of the stocking. The object of two loops is to pre- vent the same stocking always being worn on one foot. Children always like the plan when they have tried it, as their stockings never look untidy or need attention. A good plan of making the strap is to sew a good strong piece of tape, as broad as the elastic, under where the button is sewn on. Thus you can bind the elastic at the same time, and at the other end sew on a sufficiently large piece of tape to make the buttonhole into. The few inches of elastic between the tape ends are just enough to enable the strap " to give" to every movement of the child when it is romping about. Price 6d. in paper elvers : bound in cloth, is., BIOSRAPHIES OF SlXri" Great and Famous Men and Women. Royal Personages, Statesmen, Lawyers, Po t-;, Actors and Actresses, Musicians, Authors, and other Persons of Celebrity, whose names may be handed down to posterity. At all Booksellers, or sent post free on receipt of stamps. R. Cartwright, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet St., London. NOW BEADY. No. 4 of Tlio Taney Work-Basket. Containing Advice on Presents for Gentlemen, with directions for making numerous pretty and useful articles of gentlemen's use. Also recipes for knitting and crocheting ladies' and children's petticoats, undervests, babies' frocks, hoods, boots, gloves, &c. Handsome antimacassars in wool and cotton, pretty edgings, and a variety of other articles. Of all Newsagents, price 2d., or post free 2\d, Now Ready. The Third Edition of No. 1 of The Fancy "Work-Taasket Contains full explanations with diagrams for work- ing every stitch in Crochet, Knitting, Crewel Work, and Embroidery. Also practical and tested recipes for making Crochet Frock, Pelisse, Ladies' and Children's Petticoats, Bedroom Slippers, Antimacassars, Sofa-blankets, Gentle- man's Waistcoat, &e. Also how to knit Infants' Socks, Bodices, Ladies' Petticoats, Beaded Cuffs, &c., &c. Nos. 2 AND 3 ARE ALSO IN PRINT, And contain explicit instructions for Knitting and Crocheting Infants' Cloaks and Hoods, Pelisses, Frocks, Petticoats, Boots, Head-squares, &c. ; Ladies' Shawls, Petticoats, Slippers, Chemise- tops. Child's Combinations, Ladies' Shoulder Capes, Collars and Cuffs, Counterpanes, Antima- cassars and Edgings, Babies' Boots, handsome Braid Work, Ladies', Gentlemen's and Children's Undervests, Infants' House Jackets, Tarn o' Shanters. Chapter on Stocking Knitting. Also a series of Articles on Home Decoration, showing how the Home may be beautified at a small expense, and giving directions for a variety of pretty knickknacks, both useful and ornamental. Each number will be sent post-free for 2^d., or the four numbers for gd., on application to R. S. Cartwright, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London ; or the books may be had of all news- agents, price 2d. Mrs. LEACH'S PRACTICAIi FAMILY DRESSMAKER Is fublished on the 26th day of every month. Price TWOPENCE, or Post Free for Six Months for Fifteen Stamps. THE CHILDREN'S DRESSMAKER CONTAINING Mantles, Costumes, and Underclothing for Young Ladies and Children, It published on the IQth day of ever]/ month, Price ONE PENNY, or Post Free for Six Months for Nine Stamps. Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, London. The Quarterly Edition of the Two Books, containing over zoo Illustrations, may be had of any Home ot Colonial Bookseller, price gd. _^ Tracing Wheel, for tracing all kinds of Tauty Work, Designs, Dressmaking, &c., fosi free, is. M- The New and Improved Tracing Wheel for Dress and Mantle Makers. This improved Wheel is specially adapted for Dress and . Mantle Makers' Work. Price \s. 6d., fast free for tu^enty statniis. Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet St., E.C. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. ^irsi'i'air li'S'A LADIES' PETTICOAT. Requires two shades of wool, cardinal and black or violet and black. The Berlin fleecy is the best for this purpose ; 26 ozs. will be required, 6 ozs. o{ black and 20 ozs. of cardinal ; medium-sized bone needles. It is knitted in two breadths. Commence with the border. Cast on 28 stitches with black wool. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row- increase 1 in the 1st stitch, and purl the row. 3rd row — knit plain, increase I at the end. 4th row — increase and purl. 5th row — knit plain, and increase i at end. 6th row — take the coloured wool and knit plain. 7th row — purl, take 2 together at the end. 8th row — knit 2 together and knit the rest. 9th row — purl, and purl 2 together at the end. 10th row — knit 2 together and knit the rest, then change the wool, and commence again at the 1st row ; knit 30 Vandykes or 60 ribs. This is the width for one breadth ; cast off loosely. With the black wool, take up 5 stitches on every 2 ribs of the border ; you must have 150. Knit a row in black. 2nd row — purl in black. 3rd row — knit in black. 4th row — knit in black. 5th row — purl. 6th row — knit. 7th row — knit. 8th row — purl. 9th row — knit, change the wool and knit in red. loth row — purl in red. 11th row— knit in red ; repeat from the 9th row 4 more times, making 5 stripes of red. Then take the black wool, and repeat from the 9th row 3 more times ; in the last row knit the last 2 stitches together, as we only wish for 149 for the pattern. You now use the red wool entirely. Purl I row, then commence the pattern. 1st row — * knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit 1, purl 3, repeat from * 17 times, then knit 1, purl 1, knit i, purl 1, knit 1. 2nd row — purl 2, knit I, purl 2, * knit 3, purl 2, knit i, purl 2, repeat from * to the end of the row. 3rd row — * knit I, purl 1, knit I, purl 1, knit 4, repeat from * 17 times, at the end of row knit I, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i. 4th row — purl 2, knit 1, * purl 7, knit 1, repeat from * 17 times, then purl 2. Repeat these 4 rows until you have worked 70 rows ; you then knit in ribs of 2 plain, 2 purl ; knit 50 rows ; when these are knitted you knit 2 stitches together throughout the row, to be ready for the band. The band — knit 6 plain rows, then a purl row, a plain row for 8 rows. 15th row — purl 2 together, * make i, purl 2 rogether, repeat from * to the end of the row. 1 6th row — knit. 17th row — purl. Repeat these 2 rows 3 more times, cast off", and sew this last row down on the 6th row of plain knitting, doubling it in the row of holes. You now work a second breadth exactly like this. When finished sew the two pieces together, and also the band ; then run a string through the hem to draw it up. »M.t£Sk^ tt?i^^:*$^-i?-|*%*C^'^ lS''?«l'»?^^:^^:f;^^V PETTICOAT FOR THREE YEARS. Materials required^j lb. of white Berlin wool, and two bone pins. No. 12. This is a very pretty pattern, forming kilts. It can be adapted to any size petticoat by casting on any number of stitches, allowing 9 to each pattern. This petticoat is knitted in two pieces, 108 stitches in each part, ist row — purl 8, knit 1. Repeat. 2nd row — purl 2, knit 7. Repeat. 3rd row — purl 6, knit 3. Repeat. 4th row —purl 4, knit 5. Repeat. 5th row— purl 4, knit 5. Repeat. 6th row — purl 6, knit 3. Repeat. 7th row— purl 2, knit 7. Repeat. 8th row — purl S, knit i. Repeat. Then re- peat from the I st row. After having finished the last pattern, work a row thus for the waist : — 1st row— purl. 2nd row— knit i, make i, knit 2 together. Repeat. Knit 3 plain rows and finish off". Join the 2 breadths on the wrong side with a needle and wool. For the crochet edge round the bottom, i double into the 1st stitch that is knitted throughout, pass over 3 stitches, 2 trebles, 3 double-trebles, and 3 trebles into the next, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. pass over 3 stitches, and repeat. A white ribbon is run through the holes at waist made in the row after the last pattern ; the petticoat can then be drawn up to fit the waist. SEABEACH OR GARDEN JACKET. Two TO Three Years. Materials, 6 ozs. of the best fingering. Knit- ting pins No. 8. This jacket is knitted in brioche, which is simply wool forward, slip I, knit 2 together ; every row alike. For the back cast on 33 sets of brioche, that will be 96 stitches. The jacket will be counted throughout in "sets." Knit on until you have knitted 7 inches. It is now time to shape the armhole. To do this, cast off a set of brioche at the beginning of every row until you have 2 sets, or 6 stitches cast off at each side of your knitting. In casting off you may cast off the 2 stitches that lie together as if they were i stitch. Now knit 2 inches in length on the 28 sets or 84 stitches that you are workingon. When that is done you must increase a set at the beginning of the needle. The best way to do this is to make 2 sets of brioche out of the first set in the previous row. To manage this you must bring the wool forward and knit into the first stitch twice (thus making 3 stitches out of i), then bring the wool for\'-rd and knit the 2 remaining stitches as i; they were a complete set, i.e., you bring the ',.-)ol forward, slip i of the stitches, and knit the other. By this plan you will find that you have 6 stitches or 2 sets of brioche, in place of I set or 3 stitches in the previous row. Increase at the beginning of the next row in the same manner. Now work on the 30 sets until the length from the bottom of the jacket to your needles is loj inches. It is now time to shape the shoulders. To do this, cast off a set of brioche at the begin- ning of every row until you have 7 sets cast off at each side (or if you wish a long shoulder, 8 sets). This arrangement is for 7. In casting off, as we said before, you can cast off the 2 stitches that lie together as i stitch. When the 7 are cast off at each side cast off all the remaining sets in i row. This finishes the back. For the front cast on 51 stitches and knit 7 inches plain. You must now shape the armhole, by casting off a set of brioche at the beginning of i row. You must not cast off at the beginning of the return row, but you cast off another set at the beginning of the following row. When the 2 sets are cast off, work j of an inch plain. When that is done increase a set of brioche, in the manner explained above, at the beginning of the ne.xt row, which you begin from the armhole side. After you have increased this i set work ^ an inch plain, then increase another set on the same side. When this is done, work on plain until your work measures lOj inches from the bottom. You must now shape both neck and shoulders at the same time. Begin at the front, and cast off 6 to begin the neck with ; after this cast off 3 stitches, that is, one set of brioche at the beginning of every row until you have i set only upon your needles ; cast off this i set. One front is now completed. For the other front cast on 51 stitches, and work it exactly in the same way as the front detailed. For the sleeves cast on 36 stitches. Knit 6 inches plain, i.e., without increasing. Now increase a set of brioche at each side, that will give you 6 extra stitches. Knit i inch plain. Now in- crease again in the same way. Knit I inch plain again. Increase again. You have now 54 stitches or 18 sets of brioche. Knit on these 18 sets until your work measures 9 inches. Then cast off a set at the beginning of every row untilyouhavecast off 6 sets at each side. The whole of the remaining sets may be cast off in I row. Make the other sleeve the same. When they are both done sew them up on the inside. Sew up the shoulders and sides of the jacket and put in the sleeves. In fixing in the sleeves, place the seam of the sleeves about an inch to the front from the side-seam of the jacket. Be careful not to drag the sewing at all, par- ticularly the shoulder seams and the sewing in of the sleeves. Sew a piece of tape under- neath to strengthen the place for the buttons and draw the wool aside to make the button- holes, and give them a stitch to keep them in position. The sleeve is turned back as a cuff, and a very deep border of about 2 inches in depth crocheted round the bottom of the jacket. You must continue the same sort of border up the buttonhole side of the front, and round the neck, but it need only be i inch in depth. An inch border is also put round the cuff. You must be careful to work that on the wrong side, so that when the cuffs are turned back it may be on the right side. The neck should have its width drawn up a little, either by a string run in or by being crocheted round rather tightly with a moderately fine hook, or perhaps both plans can be adopted. A good ijorder must be crocheted as stated above, at least i inch wide to match the bottom of the jacket, or perhaps you can manage a border which can hold a pretty string with tassels to it. The colours of this jacket can be variously arranged, and, if you wish, Berlin wool would look very pretty worked with No. 7 needles, but would be rather more expensive than the fingering. The model from which t he above directions are given was made of light grey in the body of the jacket, and a stripe of pink worked round the bottom of the jacket, round the cuff of the sleeve, and the border was principally in the pink wool. For a border, shell stitch or double treble. A few rows of double treble with a pretty close scallop on the edge that is composed of more treble than chain, so that it looks solid, would be nice. This is necessary, as the jacket is a substantial article. A scallop of this kind simply made by putting a number of treble into I hole is easily adapted to anything. If you knit loosely remember to use needles a size finer than those named above. SEABEACH, GARDEN, OR INVALID JACKET. For Six Years. The following jacket is extremely useful for any of the above purposes. Materials : — No. 7 or 8 needles, and 5 oz. of white Berlin (single wool) and 2 oz. of dark crimson Andalusian. Cast on 60 stitihes in white. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — join on the crimson and knit plain. 4th row — plain. 5th row— join on the white and knit plain. 6th and 7th rows — plain. 8th row — purl. 9th and loth rows — plain. * Take up the red and knit 2 rows plain. Take up the white and knit 3 rows plain, i row purl, 2 rows plain. Repeat from *. Proceed in this manner, being careful not to or crimson wool, using No. 10 needles, and double Berlin wool. Make your ribs, * 1 plain and I purl. Repeat from * all the time. In making the sole with double Berlin you might make it i row plain, I row purl, so as to have a plain part for the foot. When complete sew on to a slipper sole. The knitted sole is very warm and comfortable over the slipper sole. Crochet a scallo;i round, and tie with ribbon or run in elastic, and have a bow in front. Petticoat fingering can be used for these with advantage. Another Way. Have a warm lined fluffy sole. For the top make enough ribbing to reach round the sole. Use No. 10 or 12 needles, and petticoat fingering or double Berlin wool. Make 3 or 4 inches of ribbing, then a row of holes, then another inch of ribbing. Sew on to the sole. This is pretty much the same as the previous pattern, but you omit the knitted sole, which is not necessary with a soft lined fleecy sole. To find out how many stitches you need to go round, work a little square on 10 stitches, and calculate from that how many will go round the whole sole. For colours, &c., see previous directions. INFANT'S UNDERVEST. Materials : — Pins No. 7 or 8, and 2 ounces of merino wool, a few good-sized linen but- tons, string for the neck, and a small piece of flannel binding or piece of silk to sew under the buttons. Cast on 76 stitches. Pro- ceed with plain knitting for 6^ inches. Cast off 16 stitches at the beginning of the next row, knit the rest of the row as usual. Next row — Cast off 12 stitches, and at the end of the row replace the 16 you cast off in the previous row. This makes part of the arm- hole. Knit back, and at the end of the row replace the 1 2 which you had cast off. This makes an opening to ease the hips. Be careful to cast off and cast on loosely, to allow of the armhole stretching. There should be 48 stitches on the needle, and a small piece cast off at each end when you are doing the armhole and hip, and when you have replaced them of course there are 76 again, the number you started with. Now knit 12 inches more plain. This piece of 12 inches is the back of the vest. Now make the opening for the armhole and hip as in the previous instance, that is, casting off 16 at one end of the vest, and 12 at the other, and replacing them as before, so as to match the other side. Knit 6i inches plain. Now make holes for buttonholes thus : — * knit 12 plain, wool forward, take 2 together, and repeat from *. Knit 4 rows plain and cast off. For the shoulder -.—Take up 12 stitches on the shoulder, knit about 3 inches, or until you have about 14 ribs of plain knitting, cast off loosely and sew to the other side of the armhole. Do the other shoulder in the same manner. Crochet a border of pink, if you like it, round the neck, sleeves, and the front and bottom of the vest. The following is a nice finish. First row — Slip stitch to fasten on, 4 chain, miss a stitch, i treble, * i chain, niiss a stitch, i treble, repeat from *. 2nd row — 6 chain, i treble into the third hole, I chain, i treble into the fourth hole, * 3 chain, i treble into the next hole but one (that is, the third hole counting from the one which contains the last treble you made), i chain, i treble into the next hole to that, repeat from *. 3rd row — into the small hole of the preceding row made by the i chain work I treble 3 chain, i treble I chain, and a double crochet into the middle of the 3 chain of the large hole of the preceding row, * I chain i treble into the next small hole, 3 chain I treble into the same, i chain i double crochet into the middle of the 3 chain of the next large hole, repeat from *. The above border is for the neck and sleeves ; a narrower edge will do for the remainder of the vest. If the sleeves are wanted longer, an extra row or two will make them the required size. Now sew the silk on the under side of the front to strengthen it for the buttons. Narrow sarcenet ribbon or fine tape completes the fastening at tlie neck. Two of these articles, or even one, are suffi- cient, as they can be so readily washed after baby has gone to bed. INFANT'S SHORTENING UNDER- VEST. Materials : — Soft wool and No. 8 pins Cast on 60 stitches, and *knit l, purl l and repeat from * until you have done about 2 inches. Next row — * purl I, knit r, repeat from*. Next row — * knit i, purl i, repeat from *. Repeat these 2 rows, always being careful to purl in one row the stitch you knitted in the previous row, and knit the one which was purled. An easy way of doing this without counting would be to decrease one stitch when you had done the two inches. You would then have 59 stitches. You can then always begin each row with a plain stitch. The odd number would cause the stitches to come as wished, and would bring the plain stitches over the purl stitches, and is a great saving of time and thought. When your work measures 105 inches in length cast off until you have 11 or 13 stitches left, just according to the width of shoulder-strap wished. Work on the stitches left for the shoulder in the same way as for the rest of the vest, knitting I plain stitch, I purl, keeping the pattern right. Make the shoulder-strap 44 or 5 inches long. Cast off. This completes the first side. Make the second side like the first. Now sew the shoulder-straps in their places and then sew up the sides. For the neck — take a suitable crochet hook and work i double crochet into a loop, *2 chain, miss 2 loops, i double crochet into the next loop. Repeat from * all round the neck. 2nd round — i double crochet into a hole,* i chain, 3 treble into the next hole, i double crochet into the next hole. Repeat from*. Work the armholes in the same manner. SMALL JERSEY. The above pattern can be made into a Jersey for a child a little older by adding a few stitches to the width, making it a little longer in the body as well as a little wider in the shoulder-straps, but not quite so long. Fortheneck — pick up the stitches on rather finer needles than you use for the body of the garment, and work a collar i J or 2 inches in depth. To workthe collar — after taking up the stitches work * i plain, I purl. Repeat from * until the collar is the required depth. Cast off, not too tightly, or the child will not be able to get its head through. For the sleeves — pick up the stitches round the armholes if you have the No. 3 pointed pins. If you have not, either pick up the stitches round v.-hat will be the armhole on one pin before sewing up the sides of the Jersey, or make the sleeve separate and sew it in aftenvards. Work the sleeves in the same pattern as the body of the Jersey, to within about 2 inches of the total length required. Now take the fine needles and make a cuff of i plain, i purl all along, to match the collar. When you have the re- quired length cast off. If you like to have it finer use finer needles— say. No. 10 or 12 — but with a dark waistcoat iirder and good wool which fills up well, the coarser one would be found useful for reully rough wear. The children generally want a little help in taking the Jerseys off, and sometimes in putting them on, but the he'p is soon given. They are as often as not worn without a collar for playing in, so they are a saving in that respect. BABY GIRL'S BONNET. First Size. Materials required : — 2i skeins of white Berlin fingering wool, and i skein of pale blue, 2 yards of inch wide white sarcenet ribbon, and 2 long bone needles. No. 11, standard wire gauge. This pattern, if worked with needles a size larger, would fit a baby 6 months old. Cast on with white wool 86 stitches, and knit alternately 2 plain and 2 purl stitches for 4 rows. 5th row — knit plain. 6th row — purl. Repeat these 2 rows till there are 1 1 knitted rows from the beginning. 12th, 13th, and 14th rows — knit plain. 15th row— purl. i6th row—* knit 7 stitches plain, i purl, repeat from * ; end the row with 6 plain. 17th row — * 5 purl, 3 plain, repeat from * ; end the row with 6 purl. 18th row — 5 plain, * 5 purl, 3 plain, repeat from * ; end the row with 4 plain. 19th roAv — '■' 5 purl, 3 plain, repeat from * ; end the row with 6 purl. 20th row — same as 1 6th row. 21st row — purl. 22nd to 24th rows — knit plain. 25th row— purl ; repeat from i6th row once more. 36th row — plain. 37th row — purl. 3Sth row — plain. 39th row — purl. 40th row — plain. 41st row — purl. 42nd row — plain. 43rd row — plain. 44th row — plain. 43th row — in this row commence the crown ; purl 57 stitches, turn the work, leaving 29 stitches on needle, knit 27 stitches, then knit 2 together, taking the back of the stitches, turn work, purl 27 stitches and purl 2 together. Continue knitting as these last 2 rows, knitting the pattern same as before (from i6th to end of 25th row) till all the stitches are narrowed in, which forms the crown. Cast off. For Curtain. Cast on 146 stitches, istrow — knit plain. 2nd row— purl. 3rd row— plain ; then knit from l6th row of bonnet to end of 25th row 3 times. Knit plain and purl rows alternately ' till there are 46 rows knitted from ist row of i curtain, then 4 rows of 2 plain 2 purl stitches. \ Cast oft". Sew on bonnet at cast on end of curtain. For frilling on front, cast on 86 stitches. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row — I * make a stitch by throwing wool over 101 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. needle, knit i plain, repeat from *. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — same as 2nd row. 5th and 6th rows— plain. With the blue wool sast off, and sew across bonnet, stitch by otitch, taking the cast on stitches of frill, and Sewing to the ist row of bonnet after the 4 rows of ribbing. The frill will fall into its proper place if carefully sewn on. 2nd frill- same as 1st frill, but omitting 6th row ; sew to middle row of the plain rows before the crown was commenced. 3rd frill for curtain — same as 2nd frill, but casting on 146 stitches, and sew to last plain row of curtain before the 4 rows of ribbing. Take half of the ribbon and put in where the curtain is joined to the bonnet, tying a nice bow behind ; sew on strings with second piece of ribbon. Line with sarcenet, and add a little front. i INFANT'S HOOD. Materials : — Pins No. 9, 2J ozs. of white double Berlin wool, and i oz. of pink. Cast on 60 stitches with the pink. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — take 2 together, wool forward, knit 2, wool forward, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, repeat ; every other row is, purl 4, purl 2 together, wool over, purl 2. 3rd row — take 2 to- gether, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped one over, knit I, repeat. 5th row — take 2 together, wool forward, knit 4, wool forward, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped one over, repeat. 6 rows of plain knitting. Now make I, slip i, knit 2 together for 4 inches, 2 plain rows and i purled, cast off. Cast on 22 stitches for the crown. Do I plain row. 2nd row — knit i, wool over, take 2 together, repeat ; 6 more plain rows, and then make i, slip i, knit 2 together for 3 inches. Knit a row, decreas- ing at the beginning and end of the row. Purl the next, decreasing in the same way. Do 5 more rows in this manner, and cast off. Now sew the crown and head parts together, gathering the fulness at the top, and not at the sides. Take up 74 stitches for the cur- tain or neck part, and do 3 rows of alternate knitting and purling ; let the plain part come on the right side. In the second row, in- crease after every 2 stitches, so as to have about 112 altogether. Do 3 rows, and then make I, slip r, knit 2 together for 2J inches. Cast off. Crochet a border in the following manner all round : 3 chain, miss 3, i double crochet into the 4th stitch. 2nd row — i chain, i double, i chain, i double, I chain, I treble, I chain, i treble, i chain, i double into the 3 chain of 1st row, repeat. Make a chain of white wool, and run into the pink at the top of head; finish off with tassels of white wool. ANTIMACASSAR OR COUVRE-PIED. Materials : — 2 shades of Berlin wool; green, crimson, brown, or any other con- trast preferred. Quantity according to size. 4 steel needles, No. 9. Each star is made separately. Cast on 6 stitches with the darker shade. ist row — purl. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — purl. 4th row — plain. 5th ' 102 ^ow — purl. 6th row — plain. 7th row— purl. 8th row — plain. 9th row — purl. loth row — plain. nth row — purl. 12th row — plain. Slip the 1st stitch in every row. When you have worked these 12 rows, slip your stitches on to a piece of wool or a hair-pin. * Now pick up S stitches on the selvedge side of these 12 rows (that is the side where the wool hangs down, but take no notice of this). Pick up the back chain of the stitch. Do not take up the selvedge stitch that is nearest to row where you cast on your 6 stitches to begin with. Now knit 13 rows on these stitches, as you did your first 12 rows. Knit the 1st row and purl the next, and so on alternately. In the ist row knit i and purl I in the ist stitch. This will give you 6 stitches to work on. Slip your stitches again on a piece of wool or hair-pin, and go back to *, only, of course, you will have 1 3 rows instead of 12. Repeat this 8 times till you have 10 of these little squares, with their 6 stitches threaded on wool. When the To parts are done pick up all the selvedge stitches (viz. 6) of the left-hand side of loth part, and cast them off with the 6 stitches which you cast on to commence with. Fasten the wool. This forms a circle. Now pick up the 6 selvedge stitches of right hand of the first part, * take the light wool, and work 13 rows, alternate purl and plain, as you did before. Knit on the rzg'/it side of the work. The 1st row is knitted, and with the 'ast stitch you knit the ist stitch of the dark part lying nearest you, that is threaded on «'ool. Repeat this every other or knitted row. The alternate rows are purl. When the 13th row is complete thread your stitches as before. Take up selvedge of next dark part, and repeat from * till you have worked 10 light parts. Now pick up all your stitches and the selvedge stitches on 4 needles, and knit I row with dark wool, decreasing each 6 selvedge stitches to 3 by knitting 2 stitches together 3 times. Purl 2 rows and cast off. This completes star. For the centre make a tatted circle of i double, i purl 1 1 times, and sew in or fill up with crochet chain across with purl in the centre. For the small squares, cast on 36 stitches with dark wool, join into a circle and purl 2 rows. Fasten on light wool, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together. Knit 6 more rows, decreasing the same as before, being careful to keep the decreasings above each other. When the 7th row is completed cast off as i stitch. Fasten off. Make a sufficient number of these stars and squares and sew together, and finish with tassels or fringe. BOYS' SUITS, OVERCOATS, ULSTERS,' cScc. Illustrating i6o various Suits for all Ages, with plain de- scriptions tor cutting out and making up. Also all articles of Boys ' Underclotliing, Dressing Gowns, &c. Of all Newsagents, or po.st free, -zkci., from Mrs. Leach, 8, John- son's Court, Fleet St,, London. BOY'S JERSEY. For Three Years. Two needles No. n, two No. i6. Navy blue bicycling wool. Cast on 78 stitches, ist row — I purl I plain to end of row. Repeat for 15 more rows. 17th row— 2 purl 2 plain all along. Repeat for 1 39 more rows. Leave 10 stitches on each shoulder, and pick up those between with a needle and wool until wanted. Knit 10. Cast on 58, knit 10. Knit 140 rows in ribs of 2 plain 2 purl. Knit 16 rows in ribs of i plain i purl. Cast off. Take 116 stitches round neck, and knit 18 rows with needles No. 16. Cast off. Pick up 26 stitches along the sides, back and front, counting down from the shoulder, making 52 stitches for sleeve, ist row — * knit 2, make I by picking up the back of stitch, repeat from *. Knit 76 rows in ribs of 2 plain 2 purl, knitting 2 together at beginning of first 14 rows. Knit 18 rows of I plain I purl with needles No. 16. Cast off and sew up sides and sleeves. This little Jersey, worn with blue serge knicker- bockers, makes a very neat, pretty and in- expensive suit for a little boy, and is also extremely useful when used as a muffle under an overcoat in winter. In this capacity it is suitable for either a boy or girl. It is very strong, and will bear a great deal of rough usage. KNITTED LACE. For antimacassars, shawls, couvrepifds, use wool, and bone or wooden pins. For bed furniture, toilets, quilts, or curtains use medium-sized steel needles, and No. 12 crochet cotton. Cast on 14 stitches. Knit I plain row. Then slip I, knit 2, make I (by throwing wool over needle), knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, * make 2, knit 2 together, knit i. Repeat from * twice more. 2nd row — knit 3, purl I, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit i, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 3rd row — slip I, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together ; knit the rest of the row plain. 4th row — cast oft 3 stitches, knit 7, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. Repeat for length desired. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, Fancy Stitches for Ornamenting Underlinen, &c. The following stitches, if evenly worked, form a most effective finish forunderg-arments. For linen goods, coarse crochet cotton should be used; for flannel, single Berlin wool or filoselle silk. Feather Stitching. Feather-stitching is an elegant, but simple kind of ornamental work which one can learn to do in a few moments by watching anyone who is doing it, but is very difficult to describe. To begin — take any piece of substantial linen or cotton which has a plain surface. Now take a cedar pencil and dravv a zigzag after the manner of the diagram, and have the lines at regular intervals. Now have a chenille-needle threaded with coarse cotton or silk of any contrasting colour to the ground, so that you can see what you are doing. Make a knot at the end, and bring the needle up from the under side at point r. Now place the cotton towards the left, and hold it with your thumb easily so that it does not slip. Now put your needle in from the top side at point 2, bring it out at point 3 at the left of the thread, and draw it up easily so that the thread or cotton lies flatly on the top without dragging. Now hold the thread as before towards the left, and put your needle again from the top side at point 4 and bring it out at point 5 at the left of the thread. (It is like making a succession of open chain stitches.) You have now made 2 stitches to the left, and now you must make 2 stitches to the right. Hold your thread to- wards the ri^ht,7i.wA put your needle in at point 6 and bring it out at point 7 to the right of the thread as you hold it. Draw it up carefully, and then hold your thread again to the right, putting the needle in at point 8 and bringing it out at point 9. Proceed in this manner, making 2 stitches each way for the length required. The diagram is large for reference. As soon as you understand the principle, you can vary the work in many ways. Hardly two people work it alike. Figure i shows the one described worked on cloth. No. 2 is a very simple one indeed. It can be made more elaborate by putting the stitches closer, and making 3 to the left and 3 to the right, and so on._ Avery little practice will enable you to do it evenly and quickly. to the right, insert your needle where cotton came out, and bring it out straight, about i-i6th of an inch, passing it over your thread. Every stitch is done the same. Chain Stitch. A very simple stitch, also used for marking. It requires doing very regularly. Fasten at right-hand side of work. Throw your cotton 0i&. rim^ Double Chain Stitch. Fasten your cotton into work, insert needle where you just pulled it out, and bring it out in a slanting direction to the left of you, about i inch in length, let the cotton lie in front of needle, draw up ; this forms a loop. Throw your cotton in a slanting direc- tion on right-hand side, insert needle where you just brought it out, bring it out slanting as before on right side, keeping cotton in front ; draw up. These 2 loops complete the stitch. •X -^^^"^^ Wheatear. It is always best to draw 2 lines the width apart you wish your work to be. Fasten your needle and cotton on right-hand side of work, as for feather-stitching, let your cotton lie along the work straight, hold it about J inch from where it is fastened, insert your needle m the place where you fastened on, and bring it out just where you are holding the cotton. Of course the cotton lies in front of the needle. Draw up tight. This forms the centre loop, and is really a chain stitch. Now slant your cotton a little on the upper side of centre loop, as shown in the en- graving, holding it as before, so that it lies in front of needle, insert your needle again where it came out, and draw through. Now put needle back where you first drew it out, and bring it out again at centre of middle loop. Now slant cotton on the under side, bring needle out and draw up. Now put needle back again in centre loop, lay cotton straight as before and make another centre loop. This is all the stitch. Wheatear No. 2. Draw light pencil lines about j inch apart. First insert your needle in exact centre of the 2 lines, pull out and insert in a slanting direction towards the right on the lou-cr line, always keeping your cotton in front of the needle, bring it out where you put it in first, then make a slanting stitch on the upper line even with the lower one, and again bring the needle out at the same point ^\here it was inserted. Now insert needle in same place and bring out ^ inch oft' in a direct line with where it was put in, as in the other wheatear. This completes the stitch. Coral Stitch. This stitch is done on the same principle 1 as feather stitch. The beauty of it depends on keeping the centre loops straight, as shown in the diagram. Fasten on ; lay your cotton quite straight along work ; insert needle a little slantingly on left side, very near where your cotton came out, and bring it out just where your straii//it nfraiul lies. Draw up (of course the cotton lies in front of needle). Now do the same on right side, being sure to keep your cotton straight, and bringing needle out on an exact junction with it at about i inch. Always put your needle in just where the last thread came out. Coral Stitch No. 2. This is done on the same principle as preceding one and as the sing^ feather stitch, only the stitches are rounder and more open. Picot Stitch. This is formed by chain stitches. Begin as for feather stitching, work 3 points of it, then hold cotton round, and insert needle where it came out, and bring out in a straight line a J inch farther on. This is a chain stitch as described above. Do another a little slanting to the right on under side (that is, turn your work, hold cotton round, put your needle back where it came out, bring out a i inch and draw up). For the next loop — put your needle back where you just brought it out, and bring out at centre of the picot you are making. Now make another chain stitch slanting to the left, put needle back to centre again and make a stitch on a level with the first. Now do one on the upper side slanting to the left, and another slanting to the right ; you will have 6 ; bring needle out on a level with 4th stitch and make another 3 points of feather or coral stitching, then another picot, and so on. Tete de Bceuf or Head of Beef Stitch. Very similar to Wheatear. Put needle in centre, then at right hand edge a httle to the right, bringing it out again at centre. Then on the under side. Then make a chain stitch in middle. 103 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. SHAWL STITCHES IN KNITTIN G. Most of these shawls are old pattern, but are so pretty and light for shawls, wraps, &c., that we venture to give them. The Bramble and Daisy patterns are especially pretty. The Double Knitting is suitable for scarfs and comforters, and would make lovely clouds. Many of the patterns would also be suited to curtains, antimacassars worked in cottons and with steel needles. This can be judged by working a few patterns. For the shawls, fingering, Berlin fingering, Berlin wool, socoon wool beehive wool, Andalusian or chetland, are all suited, according to the purpose for which they are designed. For fingering and kindred wools use No. 4 bone or wooden pins ; for finer wools use a finer make. In each case only the pattern rows are given. To get the number of stitches, calculate that every 4 will give you an inch. (Alwmjs knit 4 plain rows before beginning the patterns, and 2 plain stitches at the beginning and end of each row. Never forget them, and then we need not take up space by referring to them again in the different patterns.) Bramble Pattern. Cast on 4 stitches to each pattern. 1st pattern row (independent of the 4 plain for edge and the two plain stitches to begin with)— knit 3 together, make 3 out of the next stitch, by half knitting the stitch, but leaving it on the left-hand needle, throwing the thread over, and then finishing knitting the stitch. Repeat from * throughout. 6th row — plain knitting. 7th row — * make 3 out of the next stitch, knit 3 together. Repeat from*. 8th row— plain. Repeat from the 5th row till the shawl is long enough. The pattern row is the same all the time, except that in one row you commence by knitting 3 together, and in the next by making 3 out of one. This brings the brambles between one anothe r As the pattern is arranged above, there is not a very serious difference between the right and wrong side of the shawl. Another Bramble Pattern. 4 Stitches TO each Pattern. 1st pattern row — purl 3 together, make 3 stitches out of the next stitch in the same way as you did in the previous pattern. Repeat. 2nd row — purl with the exception of the border stitches. Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows till your shawl is square. Anothee Pattern. 4 Stitches to"]^each Pattern. * Slip I, knit I, pull the sUp stit«h over the knitted one, wool forward, knit i, purl I. Repeat from *. Every row alike, 104 Honeycomb Pattern. 2 Stitches to each Pattern. 1st row — * wool forward, take 2 together. Repeat from * all along. 2nd row — plain. Begin again at the ist row. yiist out, price Zd. HOUSEHOLD ACCOUNT AND COOKERY BOOK, By Mrs. LEACH, CONTAINING Printed Pages for Housekeeping Expenses for Six Months, Middle-class Cookery, and Servants' Duties, &c. Now ready, price za. Washing and Laundry Cheek Book By Mrs. LEACH. Containing How to Wash, Starch and Iron, with valuable Recipes for Cleaning, T>yeing, &c., and printed Laundry Checks for six months. Of all Nevvsvendors. The two books, post free, six stamps. All Booksellers. R. S. CARTWRIGHT,K. Johnson's Coprt, Fleet Street, LoTidon. THE FANCY WORK-BA.SKET. Another. 4 Stitches to each Pattern. 1st row — knit i, wool fomvard, slip I, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 k pattern row, and the people do — you mig the appearance of tl Daisy Stitch. * Wool forward, knit other 2. Repeat from*, are all the pattern. 3 Stitches to each Pattern. 3 plain, pull the first of the 3 over the Knit the return row plain. These 2 rows Another. 4 Stitches to each Pattern. * Slip I, knit I, wool forward and take 2 together. Repeat ffOm *. Every row the same. Another. 4 Stitches to each Wool over, knit l, purl i, take 2 together. Pattern. Eveiy row alike. 105 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Diamond Edge. Suitable for all the Preceding Shawls. Cast on 15 stitches, istrow — knit 3 plain, forward, slip i, narrow- (that is, take 2 together) and draw the slip-stitch over, forward, 3 plain, forward, narrow, * forward twice, narrow, repeat from * once. " For- ward twice" means wind the wool twice round the needle. You have 17 stitches. 2nd row — forward, 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, 8 purl, I plain, forward, narrow, i plain (18 stitches). 3rd row — 3 plain, forward, narrow, forward, narrow again, i plain, narrow, forward twice, purl 8. You have 18 stitches. 4th row — cast off 3, purl 10, i plain, forward, narrow, I plain (15 stitches). 5th Double Knitiing. Cast on an even number of stitches- * Knit I, wool forward, slip i, put the wool back. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Every row alike. Be care to slip in i row the stitch you knitted in the preceding row. J06 If double knitting is properly worked you should be able to pull the two sides apart al! through the middle of the shawl, which is simply joined at the edges. This would make a handsome cloud if pulled apart, and the ends drawn together with a tassel. row — 3 plain, forward, narrow, i plain, forward, slip i, narrow and draw the slip- stitch over, forward, 2 plain, * forward twice, narrow. Repeat from * once (17 stitches), 6th row — like the 2nd row. 7th row — 3 plain, forward, narrow, narrow, forward, i plain, forward, narrow, purl 8. You have 18 stitches. 8th row — like the 4th. Repeat the length desired. SCARF WRAP. The above wrap, although very simple in construction, is warm and thoroughly cosy, and may be made very pretty by the addition of a ribbon bow or two, and a good arrange- ment of colour. Materials : — Fingering, Andalusian, or Shetland, just as you wish it thick or thin. White fingering would wash well, and be very pretty. It will probably take No. 8 or g pins. Cast on from 60 to 90 stitches ; any number which will divide lay 6. Your scarf should be about 12 inches wide. If you use fingering, about 72 stitches will be nice. Work 6 plain rows on the 72 stitches, and in every jpaiferre row, before beginning the pattern, knit 3 2^iMn stitches, and at the end of every -pattern row knit 3 plain stitches. These 3 stitches will give a nice edge to match the 6 plain rows at the begin- ning of the scarf. 1st pattern row — * knit 3 plain, purl 3, repeat from * all along the row, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows the same. 5th row — * purl 3, knit 3 plain, repeat from *. The 6th, 7 th, and 8th rows the same. 9th row — begin with the first. When you have the square pattern deep enough, knit i plain row. Now continue knitting plain, back- wards and forwards, until your work measures about a yard in length. Now cast off about 20 stitches at the beginning of the next row' Next row — cast on 20 at the end to make up for the 20 you cast off— i.e., to match them. This gives you 72 stitches again. Go on knitting plainly until the 2nd side is as long as the first, with the exception of the pattern piece at the beginning. When the two plain parts of the sides are quite even in length, work the pattern exactly as you did in the first instance, not forgetting the 3 plain stitches at the beginning and end of the row. When the pattern is as long as in the first side, work 6 plain rows. Cast off". The scallop along the middle of the side, in which you cast off and cast on the 20 stitches (which will form the neck part), must be on the reverse side to that which goes round the other part of the wrap. You must begin the scallop for the neck about 6 inches to the right of the slit you made by casting off" and on the 20 stitches. Carry it round the sht to about 6 inches on the other side. When you have finished the neck, begin again to work the scallop round the rest of the wrap, holding the right side of the wrap towards you. When you have finished the scallops and joined them quite neatly (you will have to break off" at the end of every row in working bot'n the neck and round the wrap), draw in any ends with a wool needle, or in any other neat way. Now sew ribbon strings of any colour to match the costume to the place where the scallops join. The little flaps made by the slit turn down and form a collar, and a piece of swansdown or lined loop knitting can be sewn round to draw up if needful, and keep the neck in shape and make it warmer. The two long ends of the scarf are crossed in front, and tied at the back of the child or fastened with a bow. If coloured wool is used for a border, the ribbon for strings should rqqtch. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. THE CREEVE SQUARE SHAWL. This sbawl is extremely easy to knit, and is most uncommon and elegant. It must, how- ever, be knitted either in yak yarn or ice wool, to have the desired effect. The former is much the best, and is warm and durable. The pattern, though simple, must be followed exactly, and evenly knit, as any irregularity shows. Materials required : — i lb. yak yarn, and 3 bone needles (long). No. 8, and a fine crochet hook. Cast on lo stitches, and knit in garter stitch (that is, every row plain), but increasing a stitch each row, by knitting first the front and then the hack part of the 3rd stitch, at the beginning of each row. Continue till you have 300 stitches, then knit 20 rows plain, and then decrease I stitch each row till you have 10 on the needles. Knit 2 stitches together for the decrease, and the 3rd and 4th stitches in every row. Cast off. For lace to trim shawl — cast on with same sized needles, 18 stitches, ist row — knit 12, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit 2. 2nd row — knit plain. 3rd row — knit 10, knit 2 together, wool for- ward twice, knit 2 together, knit i, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit i. 4th row — knit plain. 5th row — knit 8, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit I, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 5. 6th row— knit plain. 7th row — knit 6, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2 toge- ther, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit ii knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit i. 8th row — knit plain. 9th row — knit 4, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 5, wool forward, knit I, knit 2 together, knit 3. loth row — knit plain, nth row — knit 2, knit 2 toge- ther, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the two knitted ones, wool forward 3 times, knit 2 together, knit i, wool forward, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2. 12th row — knit plain. 13th row— knit 4, knit 2 together, wool for- ward twice, knit 2 together, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 toge- ther, wool forward, knit i, knit 3 together, knit 4. 14th row — knit plain. 15th row — knit 6, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit 2, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool for- ward, knit I, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 3 together, knit 2 together. i6th row — knit plain. 17th row^knit 8, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit I, wool forward, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the two knitted ones, wool forward, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 4. 1 8th row — knit plain. 19th row — knit 10, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2 toge- ther, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 20th row — knit plain. 21st row — knit 12, knit 2 together, wool forward twice, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together. 22nd row — knit plain. 23rd row — knit 17, knit 2 together. Repeat from ist row. Knit as much lace as will go round the shawl, allow- ing it full enough to lie flat round the cor- ners ; join the lace to shawl with crochet as follows ; with a fine hook : — i double stitch into shawl, * 3 chain, and attach to lace with a double stitch, 3 chain, and i double into shawl ; repeat from *, remembering to allow fulness at the corners. When finished pin the shawl to the full size, taking care to keep it square ; a sheet pinned on a carpet is the best way, and then put a damp sheet over the shawl and iron it till quite dry, when it is ready for use. It is required to be very closely pinned to keep the edge a good shape. Black or ecru-coloured wool looks well, but crimson is very handsome. THE CREEVE FICHU Knitted in the s.\me stitch as the square SH.WVL for the CENTRE, BUT THREE - CORNERED IN SHAPE, AND WITH A HANDSOME BEADED CROCHET LACE FOR TRIJIMING. Materials required : — 12 ounces of black yak yam, 2 needles No. 8, and 6 bunches of black jet beads, a fine crochet hook. Cast on 7 stitches, and knit in plain rows, increas- ing I stitch each row, in third stitch from the beginning, till there are 300 stitches on the needles, then knit 12 plain rows and cast oft". For lace to trim the shawl crochet as follows : — For wide width, about 4 inches. For the beading, 9 chain, I treble into the 3rd stitch, I chain, i treble into the ist of the 9 chain, * 6 chain, turn, l treble upon the last treble, 1 chain, miss i, i treble upon the 1st treble, repeat from * the length required, allowing a little more than 2 yards of the beading for one yard of lace. For Leaces. — Commence in the ist point of the beading, keeping the rest to the right. 1st leaf — 21 chain, join to the next point of the beading to the right, always making the joinings at the same side ; then on the 21st chain, miss I, I double, 2 treble, i long treble, 2 treble, i double, I single, which finishes the leaf, and leaves 12 chain. 2nd leaf — 12 chain, join to the 4th point on next but one, then on the 12 chain work a leaf as before, leaving 3 chain. 3rd leaf — 11 chain, join to the 6th point, then work a leaf as before ; when finished work 3 single more on the 3 107 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. chain. 4th leaf— 9 chain, join to the 8th point, work a leaf, when finished 3 single on the 3 chain between the leaves. 5th leaf — 9 chain, join to the loth point, work a leaf, then 3 chain on the 12 chain. 6th leaf— 9 chain, join to the next on nth point, work a leaf, then 6 chain, i single on the ist of these 6 chain, and on the 9 chain left to form the 7th leaf, work i single, i double, 2 treble, I long treble, 2 treble, i double, i single. Turn the work on the wrong side, make a double-bar (thus), 8 chain, 1 double in the 3rd stitch of it, to form a dot, leaving 2 chain, then 8 chain again, and i double in the 3rd of it, for a second dot. then 2 chain, which ends the double-bar. Work 2 double in the 6 chain between the leaves. Make a double- bar, I treble in the next point of the beading already attached to the leaf Make a 3rd double-bar, 2 double in the next point. Make a 4th double-bar, 2 double in the next point. Turn the work on the right side, and com- mence again at the ist leaf Repeat the leaves, except that after the 7 th leaf is made 3 single should be worked on the 2 double and next chain stitch. For Edging. — Commence with 2 treble into 4th point of beading on the outer side, count- ing from the centre leaf, * 9 chain, miss 6, i treble into next stitch, i long treble into next, I chain, 2 treble into next pomt, repeat from * 6 times more, i treble into each of the next 4 points, repeat from commence ment. 2nd row — 2 double into ist loop of chain, * double-bar, 2 double into next loop, repeat from * 5 times more, i chain, i double long treble between 2nd and 3rd treble of the 4 trebles of last row close together, i chain, repeat from commencement. For Heading. — ist row — *, 2 treble, both in centre of double-bar of last row, 6 chain, repeat from *, working on the right side of work. 2nd row — *, 2 treble on the ist and 2nd stitches of the 6 chain of last row, 2 chain, miss 2, repeat from *, but working the 2 treble on the 2 next stitches. To put the beads on, use the best machine silk, and sew on 4 beads on each leaf, and i on the stems and dots, and on the trelDle and double treble stitches all over the patterns. When worked, the lace must be dressed before the beads are put on, as follows : Pin the lace on an iron- ing board, first to length and then to width, taking care to pin all the points out ; put a wet cloth over it, and press with a hot iron, which makes the lace quite flat and stiff, damp the cloth with cold water. Put this lace on the 2 straight sides and round the corner, it will take 33 patterns, and for the narrow lace, to go across the shawl, work 27 patterns, as follows: — Narrow lace to match the wide — about 2i inches wide — and beaded same way. For Beading. — 7 chain, turn, miss 6 chain, and work 2 treble both in the 1st stitch, turn, 6 chain, 2 treble, both on the wrong side of the last treble stitch ; turn, continue working 6 chain and 2 treble as before, until a sufficient length is made, working both sides of the stitch, when working the treble stitches. For Leaves. — Commence in 1st loop of the beading, which keep to the right. * 18 chain, join to next loop of beading, miss I, and work on the 18 chain i double, 2 treble, i long treble, 2 treble, I double, leave the 10 chain. 2nd leaf — 8 chain, join to next loop but i of beading, then work a leaf as before (in wide lace). 3rd leaf — same as 2nd leaf, 3 single on the 10 chain left after working 1st leaf 4th leaf — 8 chain, join to next loop of bead- ing, work a leaf as before, 6 chain, and work Sth leaf on the 7th chain left at beginning of 108 leaves, turn the work ; work a double-bar, as in wide lace, 2 double into the 6 chain between the leaves, double-bar, i treble into loop of beading in which the leaf is already attached, 3rd double-bar, 2 double into next loop of beading, 4 th double-bar, 2 double into next loop of beading, turn the work and repeat from *. For Heading. — ist row — * 2 treble, both in centre of double-bar of last row, 6 chain, re- peat from *. Working on right side of work. 2nd row — * 2 treble on the ist and 2nd stitches of the 6 chain of last row, 2 chain, miss 2, repeat from *, but working the 2 treble on next 2 stitches. For Edging. — Commence in 3rd loop of beading (on the outside), counting from the centre leaf, i double, ***t double-bar, i dou- ble in next loop of beading, repeat from t 4 times more, 2 chain, i double into next loop of beading, 6 chain, I double into 1st of the 6 chain, i double into next loop of bead- ing, 2 chain, I double into next loop of bead- ing, repeat from ***. Either crochet the lace to the shawl, as directed for square shawl, or sew it on, putting the narrow lace on the wrong side of the shawl, as it is turned down when being worn. SQUARE SHAWL. Materials requiied: — ij lb. of Berlin fingering, and one pair of wooden needles. Cast on 6 stitches for each pattern, and 3 for each edge, ist row — slip i, knit 2, * make I, slip I, knit 2 together and pass the slip- stitch over the 2 knitted ones, make i, knit 3, and repeat from * to end of row, with the exception of the 3 last, which must always be knitted plain. 2nd row — slip i, knit 2 (this is always done at the beginning of every row, and will not be repeated again), purl to end, except 3 edge stitches. 3rd row — knit 3, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip- stitch over the 2 knitted ones, make i and repeat. 4th row — purl. Repeat these 4 rows till the shawl is the size required. To get the number of stitches to cast on, do a small piece first and measure, then calculate the number of stitches to an inch. The fringe and border are worked separately and sewn on. Border and Fringe. Cut a skein of wool into 6 lengths. For the fringe — cast on 11 stitches, ist row — slip I, knit 2, make 2, purl 2 together, knit 2, take 3 pieces of your cut wool and lay between the knitting from front to back, knit I, bring the back part of wool to the front, knit 3. 2nd row — slip i, knit 5, make 2, purl 2 together, knit 3. 3rd row — slip i, knit 2, make 2, purl 2 together, knit 5, take the wool that is lying between the stitches and twist it together, and pass it through to the back, knit l. 4th ro\v — slip i, knit 5, make 2, purl 2 together, knit 3. 5th row — slip I, knit 2, make 2, purl 2 together, knit 6. 6th row — slip i, knit 5, make 2, purl 2 together, knit 3. Commence again at ist row till enough is done. PRETTY EDGING. This edging can be worked either in wool or cotton. For the former, using bone or wooden pins, it is suitable for shawls, couvrettes, &c., for the latter for curtains, quilts, toilet covers, &c. Cast on 13 stitches. 1st row — wool forward, take 2 together, knit I, forward, knit 7, forward, take 2 together, knit I. 2nd row — slip i, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit the rest plain. 3rd row — forward, take 2 together, knit l, forward, take 2 together, forward, knit 6, forward, take 2 together, knit i. 4th row — slip I, knit 2, wool forward, take 2 together, knit plain to end of row. 5th row — forward, take 2 together, knit i, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, knit 5, forward, take 2 together, knit i. 6th row — slip I, knit 2, forward, knit 2 together ; knit plain to end of row. 7th row — forward, take 2 together, knit i, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward,knit 4, forward, take 2 together, knit i. 8th row — slip i, knit 2, forward, take 2 together ; knit plain to end of row. 9th row — forward, take 2 together, knit I, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, knit 3, forward, take 2 together, knit i. loth row — slip I, knit 2, forward, take 2 together ; knit plain to end of row. 1 1 th row — forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, knit 3, forward, take 2 to- gether, knit I. i2th row— slip i, knit 2, forward, take 2 together; knit plain to end of row. 13th row — forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, knit 4, forward, take 2 together, knit I. 14th row — slip I, knit 2, forward, take 2 together ; knit plain to end of row. 1 5th row — forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, knit 5, forward, take 2 together, knit i. i6th row — slip i, knit 2, forward take 2 together ; knit plain to end of row. 17th row — forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, forward, take 2 together, knit 6, forward, take 2 together, knit i. i8th row — slip I, knit 2, forward, take 2 together; knit plain to end of row. 19th row — forward, take 2 together, take 2 together, knit 7, forward, take 2 together, knit i. 20th row — slip I, knit 2, forward, take 2 together ; knit plain to end of row. Repeat from ist row until length required. New Edition. Just Out. Price Twopence. HOW TO DANCE. , By an M C, giving the Steps and Figures of all the gl New and Country Dances, with Dictionary of French |l Terms used in Dancing. Hairdressing, &c. Post free 2id. Small neat Pocket Edition, in cloth, gilt, in envelope, 7d., fost free, R, S. CARTWRIGHT, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street THE FANCY '.WORK-BASKET. m)€W CAPE IN CANADIAN OR FAN STITCH. Best quality black ice wool, lo balls, and a rather fine bone crochet hook required. The shawl is worked with double ice wool (that is taking 2 balls and working from them together, which will make 4 ply). A fan is worked thus : Throw wool over needle, as in treble stitch, draw through loop, as in treble, but drawing the loop up to length of 6 chain, finish off the stitch as in treble. 8 of these long stitches make a fan. 6 chain is worked at beginning of each row to form i stitch. Make a chain of 6[ stitches, ist row — work 3 long stitches to form a J fan (your 6 chain makes the 4th stitch) in 7th chain from the needle, 8 fans, missing 6 chain between each fan, end with i fan. Turn your work, and work back for 2nd row, work a double stitch on ist stitch of i fan at end of last row, 9 fans, working between the fans of last row, and i double into centre of fans of last row, end row with double on last stitch, turn. 3rd row — same as 1st row, but working the fan OVER the doubles of 2nd row, instead of into the chain, and working double into centre of fans of last row. 4th row — same as 2nd row. 5fh row — i fan in ist double of last row, in- crease by working 2 fans instead of i in centre of back, and work the row as before ; end with i fan. 6th row — increase 2 fans, i at beginning and I at end of row. 7th row — | fan, 12 fans, J fan. 8th row— 13 fans. 9th row — ^ fan, 5 fans, increase in next fan of last row, 2 fans, increase as before, 5 fans, and end with \ fan. loth row — 3 fans, increase in next fan, 9 fans, increase in next fan, 3 fans. I Ith row — I fan, 16 fans ; end with 4 fan. 12th row — 17 fans. 13th and 14th rows — same as nth and 12th rows. 15th row — i fan, 4 fans, ncrease, 8 fans, increase, 4 fans ; end with i fan. 1 6th row — 19 fans. 17th row — J fan, 18 fans ; end with J fan. l8th row — i fan, increase, 17 fans, increase, i fan. 19th row — 4 fan, 6 fans, increase, 8 fans, increase, 6 fans, and end with J- fan. 20th row— 23 fans. 2 1st row — 4 f^") 22 fans, and end with 4 fan. Continue as 20th and 21st rows till there are 32 rows worked from beginning. Then break off the woo! and commence at neck, and work all round the cape with fans of 1 5 stitches, instead of 8 stitches, only round the neck, 10 or 12 stitches in the fans will be enough. Put a handsome silk cord and tassels through the holes between the fans at neck, to fasten the cape. Be sure to get the BEST quality ice wool, as inferior wool gets very rough in a short tine. The cape is equally pretty if worked with cream or coloured wools, and looks like satin. CHILD'S DRESS IN POINT DE NEIGE. The above little dress is very suitable for a delicate child, made in plain serviceable colours for the seaside, and as a protection during the cold winds of the spring and winter. In fact, it is suitable for any time almost. Materials :— Double Berlin or fleecy wool and No. 4 hook, and enough velvet or velveteen, or other suitable material, to make a yoke. Now procure a good pattern, and fit an ordinary yoke on to the child's shoul- ders. Next make a simple pattern of the skirt of the size required. Now make a chain the full length of the width of the skirt ; it should divide by two. Unite the chain into a round, ist round — make 4 chain, take them up as tricoter, and two of the foundation chain in addition. This forms the first shell. When you have drawn the wool through the 6 loops on the needle, and made a chain to keep them firm, make the ne,xt shell, and work on till you have done the round. Unite the last shell to the first very carefully. 2nd round — make 3 chain to begin the first shell with, and work round and round till you come to the placket hole. When you reach the placket hole, work in rows. After finish- ing the skirt, work straight across to form the bodice, until it is time to dividethe stitches for the armhole. To divide the stitches for the armhole, take half the stitches for the front and half for the back. The opening at the back of the dress must be exactly in the centre of the half of the stitches for the back. Run a cotton down the division between the two halves, under the arm. Now work across the right back, but leave one shell, next to the cotton mark, unworked. 2nd row of the right back — I shell over every shell in the pre- vious row. Repeat the 2nd row till the back is long enough to meet the yoke. To do the front — miss the first shell next the cotton, and work across the front, leaving a shell unworked between the end of the row and the cotton mark. Finish the front by work- ing several rows over the first row of the front, till the front is as deep as the back already done. You will notice that there are two shells between the back and front which are not worked. These form the bottom of the armholes. Work the 2nd back to correspond with the 1st, leaving 2 shells to form the bottom of the armhole. For the sleeve — make a chain the required width; unite and work in rounds till long enough. If you could manage, by working in rows at the shoulder, each row a little shorter than the one previous, to shape the top of the sleeve so that it is I'ounded to fit in the arm- hole, it would be an improvement. Now put your dress together, sewing on the yoke, and then arranging the sleeves. Sew binding underneath the buttons at the back ; and for buttonholes make holes in the work, and sew the holes round with silk. Make a small scallop round the bottom of the dress, and up the back on the buttonhole side, and round the bottom of the sleeves if you like. Tack lace round the neck of the yoke, and finish with bows of ribbon on the shoulders. A silk sash is a very great improvement. Decreasing and increasing have been fully detailed in previous numbers. Anyone not wishing a velvet yoke, could work straight up to the neck at the back, and up in front the same, just decreasing a little in the front to shape it to the neck. 3 or 4 short rows of shell stitch will make the shoulder, and a scallop can be put round the neck and string run in. GIRL'S JACKET, FOR 2 YEARS. Materials, 6 ozs. of white single Berlin wool, I ounce and a half of blue. Bone crochet hook, No. 9. Make a chain of 74 stitches with white wool, do i treble into the first stitch, i chain, pass over i stitch, I treble into the next stitch, repeat in this way to the end of row, there ought to be 37 holes, this is the neck of jacket ; do 2 chain, turn. 2nd row, work 3 trebles into the ist hole, 3 trebles into evei-y hole to the end without any chain between, 2 chain to turn. 3rd row, i treble into the ist stitch, i treble into the next stitch, I treble into the next stitch, 2 chain, I treble into the same stitch the last was worked into, I treble into the next stitch, i treble into the next stitch, pass over 2 loops, and repeat from the beginning of the row, there will be 16 scallops ; 2 chain, turn. 4th row, work into the back loops of the stitches to form ridges, i treble in the 2nd stitch, i treble in the next stitch, i treble in the next stitch, I treble in the next stitch which is the 1st of the 2 chain at point, 2 chain, i treble in the same stitch, i treble in the next stitch, 1 treble in the next stitch, treble in the next stitch, pass over 2 loops, repeat to the end. Remember to work every row throughout the jacket in the back loop, to make the work lie in ridges. Work every row alike, always keeping the scallops in shape, and increasing every alternate row, 2 stitches in each scallop. In the nth row do 2 scallops and a half; this is i front. Miss 3 scallops for the sleeves, join to the point of 6th scallop, work across the back till you come to the middle of I Ith scallop. Join to the point of 14th, work over the other two and a half for the front. You will now have 10 scallops. Continue to work backwards and forwards in the saine way, only increasing 2 stitches in every alter- nate row in each scallop under the arm- but not in the others. When 20 rows are done ; increase 2 stitches in each scallop all round in ever)' alternate row till 28 rows are done, you will not have to increase any more. 29th row — in blue wool. 30th row — in white wool. 31st row— in blue wool. 32nd row — in white wool. 33rd row — in blue. 34th row — in while. 35th row — inblue. 36th row-- in white. 37th row— in blue. 38th row— in white wool ; this finishes the bottom of jacket. Now commence the sleeve. There will be : large scallops 14 stitches in each, and you must make 2 smaller ones, 12 stitches in each at the under part of the arm. E\-ery alternate round must be worked on the in- side of sleeve, to keep it in ridges like the rest of the jacket, joining the top of the last treble to the top of first. Begin ever>' round on the 2nd treble, so as to miss 2 stitches between the scallops. Do 3 rounds, then decrease 2 stitches in each of 2 scallops under the arm ; do 4 rows without decreasing, then 109 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. decrease 2 stitches in each of 2 large scallops in the 9th round. loth round without decrease, nth round like the 9th. This will have lo stitches in every scallop ; do 6 more rounds, join on blue wool, i round in blue, i round in white, next round in blue, next round in white; this finishes the sleeves. Turn up the last 5 round? to form a cuff to mat ;h the bottom of jacket. For the trimming which goes round the neck and down both fronts make a chain sufficient to work 24 scallops on 10 stitches in each. 1st row — in white. 2nd row— in blue. 3rd row— in white. Do the 3 last scallops and 3 first in this row in long trebles, instead of the usual way. 4th row — blue. 5th row — white wool ; this finishes. Fasten this with a needle and wool up the front and round the neck, draw it in round the neck with a crochet cord in blue wool, attach a tassel to each end, tie in front, put another chain and tassels at the back of jacket in the middle of last row of trimming, also at the bottom of front just above the border. Have 6 good sized linen buttons, work over them with blue wool till covered, put 3 on each front at equal distances apart be- tween the neck and the chain which ties the fronts above the border, make 3 little straps of blue chain, fasten them on one side under the trimming over the buttons, this will loop over the buttons on the other side to fasten the jacket. This is a very handsome jacket. The model has been greatly admired. INFANT'S JACKET. Wave Pattern. Materials : —Shetland wool, and a fine hook about No. 11 or 12. The quantity of wool depends on the length and size of the jacket. About an ounce and a half or a little more would be required for the model. Make a chain moderately loosely of 70 stitches, i or 2 more will not matter. 1st row — i trelale into the 4th chain from the hook, i treble in the next, i treble in the next, * 2 chain, miss 2 loops, I treble into each of the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * to the end of the row. This will give you 16 sets of 3 treble, and 15 holes between the sets. 2nd row- 2 chain to turn, * treble into the next stitch taking up both loops of the stitch through which you are working, 3 treble in the next, 1 treble in the next, miss 2 loops. Repeat from * over the next set of 3 trebles. You thus get 5 stitches over the 3 and no chains between. 3rd row— 2 chain, miss a loop, * i treble in the next, 5 treble in the centre one of the 3 in i hole in the previous row, i treble in the next, miss 2 loops. Repeat from *. There are 7 stitches to each set. 4th row — 2 chain, miss a loop, * i treble in each of the next 2 treble, 3 treble in the centre loop, i treble in each of next 2 loops, miss 2 loops. Repeat from *. 5th row — 2 chain, miss a loop, * i treble into each of the next 2 treble, 5 treble into the centre loop, I treble into each of the next 2 treble, miss 2 loops. Repeat from *. There are 9 stitches to a set. 6th row — 2 chain, turn, miss a loop, * i treble into each succeeding loop, till you come to the centre, put 3 in the centre, i treble into each loop till you are as usual within 1 stitch of the bottom of the scallop, miss 2 loops. Repeat from *. 7th row — 2 chain, turn, miss a loop, * I treble into each succeeding loop, till you come to the centre loop, put 5 in the centre loop, I treble in each loop as usual until you are i loop from the bottom of the scallop, miss 2 loops. Repeat from *. There will be 1 1 stitches to each set in the 7th row. 8th row — like the 6th. oth row— like the 7th. 110 loth, nth and 12th rows — like the 6th row. In the 9th row you will have increased to 13 stitches. 13th row — work on as usual without increase, but carefully keeping the scallops in proper shape, till you have done 2h scallops, now miss 3 scallops, for the sleeve, work 5 across the back, miss 3 again for the other sleeve, and there will be 2i scallops remaining for the other front. In leaving for the sleeves, you leave off at a J scallop and commence again at a 4 scallop. 14th row — Without increase, and see that you have 13 to scallop that you work over the joined halves under the arm. Altogether there will be 10 scallops in this row. 15th, i6th, 17th, and 1 8th rows — without increase, igth row — increase in the usual way to 15 stitches to each scallop. 20th to 25th rows — without increase, unless you wish the jacket wider than it seems likely to be. Border : — After working the last row of the jacket, work round the fronts and neck— miss the end of the row you have just done, and * work 9 treble into the end of the next row, now work i double crochet into the loop at the bottom of the next row, miss the end of a row. Repeat from *. I f the scallops seem too full put fewer treble in them or make them a little farther apart. Carry the same sort of scallop round the neck and down the 2nd front. Bring the end of the last scallop of the last front to the bottom of the front. For the bottom of the jacket — work i double crochet into the hole formed by the 2 chain at the beginning of the last row of the jacket. [If you have just made it in connec- tion with the last front scallop so much the better.] * Miss 2 loops, work S treble in the 3rd loop, miss 2 loops, i double crochet between the last of the loops missed and the next loop. Miss 2 loops, 10 treble into the centre loop of the scallop, miss 2 loops, i double between the last one missed and the next, miss 2 loops, 8 treble in the next, miss 2 loops, I double between the scallops. Repeat from * all round the bottom. Fasten off neatly at the join between the last scallop round the bottom, and the first you did up the front. For the sleeves — work 14 rounds, or 16, if you wish long sleeves, on the 6 scallops that were left for the sleeves. When the sleeve is long enough add the same border as you have round the bottom of the jacket. If you wish to shape the sleeve, you can decrease 2 stitches in each or 2 scallops mider the arm in the 4th and Sth rows, but for a baby the straight sleeve does very nicely, and it could be drawn up at the wrist. Add ribbon, or crocheted chain strings. This is a pretty pattern. CHILD'S HOOD. A very pretty and simple hood can be cro- cheted any size in shell stitch. For crown: — make an oblong of shell stitch, about 4 inches long and 2| wide. For front: — work rows round three sides of this oblong, leaving the un worked end for the neck. If it seems needful increase at the coiners a little so as to get it right size to fit round the head. When you have done about an inch of the front, make a row of treble, long, and veiy even, but not too tight, so that yoa can run ribbon through. Then work another inch, then another row of treble, then work shell stitch till your hood is large enough. For the border: — work a row of long loose treble, making one chain between each of the treble; make the one chain between the treble very loosely, and put several treble over each shell, so as to make the border fluffy. 2nd row of face border — this is worked on the same edge as you worked the first row, i double crochet into a shell, * 3 chain, i double crochet into the next shell or the next but one, according to the fulness desired. Repeat from* to the end of the row. 3rd row — a long treble into the 1st hole of the 2nd row,* i chain, i long treble into the same hole, repeat from * as often as you like, about 5 treble in each hole with a loose chain between, will be enough, i chain, i long treble into the next hole, then repeat from the first * in the 3rd row, to the end of the row. For the curtain — make 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble, all into a shell, * 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, into the next shell but one. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row — 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the hole in the first picot in the row just made, * 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble in the hole in the next picot. Repeat from * to the end of the row, and repeat the 2nd row just as often as you wish till the curtain is the desired depth. For the last row of curtain — fasten on by a double crochet, then make as many treble as will lie fiat in the hole of the first picot, * fasten by a double crochet between the picot just worked in, and the next, make as many treble as will lie flat in the next hole, and repeat from * round the whole of the curtain. At the side of the curtain you arrange the scallops as best you can, taking care to make them look nice; a little thought, care, and juJgment, go a long way towards making the work look well. Run ribbon in the places where you made the treble for the purpose, add bows at the top of the head and the back of the neck, and add strings. For a lady's hood the crown must be a little larger, say 3-^ or 4 inches wide, and 5 inches long. These make delightful opera or garden hoods, just according to the materials used. If the curtain is needed fuller put the shells closer together. Single Berlin wool or really good fingering, is the material to be used such as the model called for; of course a moderately small hook, about No. S or 9, would work that size of wool. For the opera for ladies, use pale pink single berlin and ribbon to match, or pale blue, or very rich golden brown with golden ribbon. For the garden — pink, blue, crimson, or grey finger- ing, or similar wool. For children : the same as for the garden for ladies. These hoods are charming in appearance and very comfortable. For a baby the crown should be made smaller, and make of white Berlin or fingering wool, trim with white satin ribbon and lace frills. Line with fine flannel. CHARMING HOOD FOR SMALL BABY. Cut out a horseshoe crown and straight front piece to fit the baby, then work to the pattern in fine tricoter. Sew the crown and front together, crochet a curtain, and then a verj' full scallop round face and curtain. Line the hood with fine flannel, add ribbon bows at the top of head and back of neck, lace frill in front, and you have a charming and inexpensive hood. A full row of fluffy trimming similar to that round the front and curtain can be put round the join of the crown and front to hide any little unsightliness there may happen to be. Dotted tricot is a pretty variation for hoods, directions for which are given below. Send l.V for a Specimen Copy of THE NOVEL READER, A liigh-clas.'s weekly magazine ; contains a complete story weekly. £j Johnson's Coui't, Fleet Street, London. BnaaTBiiMiinmn ■■ \ THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. DOTTED TRICOTER FOR HOODS SOFA BLANKETS, &c., &c. Make a chain the desired length. 1st row— take up the loops as usual. 2nd half of the ist row — draw through I loop * then through 2 loops, and repeat from * until your row is completed. 2nd row — 1st half, take up loops as usual. 2nd half — draw through I loop, then through 2 loops, then through 2 loops again, now make 4 loose chain, now draw through 2 loops (that is the loop from the last chain and a loop which you took up in the ist half of the row), then through 2 loops more 3 times; you should now have done 4 tricoter stitches from the 4 chain. * 4 loose chain draw through loop on needle and 1 tricot stitch, then through 2 loops 3 times more and re- peat from * to end of row. 3rd row — take up your loops as usual, being careful to get up the right loops on each side of your chain dots, and have the chain dots on the right side of your work by putting your needle round the back. 2nd half of 3rd row — draw through i loop, then through 2 loops 4 times This should bring you to the exact middle of the space between one dot and the next in the previous row, * * make 4 loose chain, draw through 2 loops 4 times till you arrive at the exact centre of the next space between the dots, now repeat from * * to the end of the row. You will notice that the dots are made hehoeeii the loops that you pick up, therefore you must always have 2 or 4 or 6 loops, or an even number between the chain dots, or you will not be able to get your next dot in the next row exactly in the middle between the dots in the previous row. The above kind of tricoter goes by numerous names, but dotted tricoter is as simple and expressive as any. If you like you can make a plain row of tricoter between the rows of dots. In the above simple dotting, a plain row would be an improvement. We have just given you the principles of the work, and by taking a hook and wool and experimenting a little, you will find that you can arrange your dots in diamonds, squares, stripes, or any way you wish. For a diamond you should have 8 or 10 loops between the chain dots that form the points of the diamonds and then , fill out the dot above and on each side of the centre dot until you have the half diamond complete, then, of course, decrease. When you have done i row more than the middle of the diamond (that is when you have done I row of decreasings), it will be time to calculate where you put the ist dot of the next set of diamonds, so that you constantly increase on i set of diamonds as you decrease on the previous set. Try on a small piece of work first to get the plan properly made. Do not have your diamonds too close together ; it spoils the effect. INFANT'S GAITERS FOR WINTER. Cut a paper pattern of a pretty gaiter, and • work in white dotted tricot, make the dots pretty close together, 3 chain to a dot, instead of 4, and have the dots alternately — that is, the dots of one row between the dots of the previous row. A piece of white belting makes good straps for under the feet. It you liked you could fasten the gaiters up by pinning to the diaper or by the ordinary stocking suspenders, if they seem to come down and slip at all. The above is a warm gaiter, and in white fingering washes and wears well. Wash them yourself if possible, and squeeze and roll in a towel till nearly dry. PATTERN FOR SHAWLS, HOODS, OR STRIPE FOR ANTIMAC > ^SAR. Make a chain the' re quired length, and a little over. 1st row : — Turn work a treble in the 4th stitch, keeping the last loop on the needle, work three other treble in the same wa> in the same stitch ; when you work the last treble of the four you have in the stitch draw the wool through all the loops on the needle This gives you a bunch of treble. Now make 3 chain miss 3 loops, I double crochet in the next,* 3 chain, miss 3 loops, 4 treble in the next, keeping the last loop of each on the needle as before, till you make the 4th, and then drawing the wool through all the loops, 3 chain, miss 3 loops, i double crochet in the next Repeat from * to the end of the row. Break off the wool. 2nd row— make a double crochet over the first bunch of treble, * 3 chain, a bunch of treble over the next double crochet, 3 chain, i double crochet over the next bunch of treble. Repeat from *. 3rd row— commence always, at the same end. In this row you make a bunch of treble over the 1st double crochet, and have to fasten on at the same time, draw the wool through the double crochet, and either make 3 chain to count for the first of the 4 treble or make a treble of the double wool, that is the wool you will work with, and the end which has to be made firm. Do it as well as you can. Having made your bunch to begin the row, * 3 chain, i double crochet over the next bunch of treble, 3 chain, i bunch of treble over the next double crochet. Repeat from *. The 2nd and 3rd rows comprise the pattern. Double Berlin is handsome. For an antimacassar stripe, make a good scallop of long treble down each side, and join the stripes with maize, crimson, or black wool, just according to the colours you have used in the stripes. For a hood, make the crown about 4 inches high by 3 wide. Then work the front round it. Use single Berlin wool. For a shawl, use Shetland, unless you want it thick, or some fluffy looking wool, wool arrasene is very good. Make it square, beginning at one side and always beginning at the same end of your work, drawing in the ends at the end of the row carefully. You can fringe the shawl, or make an open border of chain loops, made by working a double crochet into a loop, about * 7 chain, and a double crochet into another loop a little distance farther on. Repeat from *, keeping your double crochet at equal distances from one another. Next row — make a double crochet into a hole, * 7 chain, i double crochet into the next hole. Repeat from * for as many rows as you wish depth of border. Last row — I double into the middle of a hole, * as many long treble as will lie quite flat in the next double crochet, i double crochet into the middle of the ne.xt hole. Repeat from * and make as good full flat scallops as need- ful to go round the shawl. A 2nd row of scallops can be added, making the scallops in the double crochet between the scallops in the I St row. A variation can be made by making 3 or 4 rows of open chain holes as above, then 2 rows of scallops, then some rows of open work, then scallops to finish off. If 7 chain do not seem a sufficient numoer lor your openwork holes you can put 9 chain, or if they seem more than you care for put 5. A little individual taste and judgment should always be used to give character to your work. Pink or blue for evening; brown, fawn, or grey for ordinaiy use, or scarlet or black are useful. LADIES' SANITARY TOWELS. 3Irs. Leach can supply Ladies with the -Sew Sanitary Towels, best quality at 2S. scl-, second quality, is. 2d. per doz., post free, packed securely in plain wxappers. These articles are really conducive to health and comfort, and highly recommended to Ladies acd young Ladies in place of Diapers. Address, Mrs. Clara Leach, 37, New Kent Road, LoHdoa< 111 THE FANCY-WORK-BASKET. Antimacassars and Edgings. li: ! ,\vk~^: STAR ANTIMACASSAR. Materials : — Coats's cotton No. 14, steel hook. Large Star. Make 8 chain, unite into a ring, and work 24 treble, unite and draw the ball of cotton through last loop of chain left upon the needle. This makes it join evenly. Now make a double crochet stitch upon next treble to where the cotton is, 24 chain, double crochet into the 3rd chain from last double crochet, 3 chain, miss i treble, and double crochet into the next ; repeat until you have 12 of the long loops, then fasten off the cotton, close at the ring of treble stitches Enlarged Design. Now commence again with 7 long treble into one of the long loops of chain (you jnust form the first by 4 chain), 7 chain, picot back into 4th chain, 3 chain, 7 long into the next long loop, and repeat all round the star ; unite and draw the cotton ball through, let the cotton lie at back of the star, and without breaking off draw it through and double crochet on 4th of the 7 treble, 4 chain and treble into the picot, 6 chain, and picot back into the 2nd chain from last treble, i chain, treble into same picot, 6 chain, picot back as before, i chain, I treble into same picot, 6 chain, picot back as before, i chain, i treble (there should be 4 treble in all in the same picot), 4 chain, double crochet into 4th treble of next 7 treble, and repeat all round the star, and fasten off. This finishes the large star. S.MALL Star. Make 6 chain, unite, make 4 treble, 7 chain, picot back into 2nd from ring, 7 chain, picot back into 2nd chain from last picot, 10 chain, picot back into 4th from last picot, 112 7 chain, picot back into 2nd from last picot, I chain, catch into last of the 4 treble of the ring, and make 4 more treble. 4 of these loops of picots, with the 4 trebles between, compose the small star for antimacassar. These stars should be joined as you work them. First unite one centre loop of picots of large star to between the picots of small star, then the next 2 points of the large star must be joined to 2 points of another large star, then next another small one. Finish with good fringe. COTTON ANTIMACASSAR. Materials required : — Evans's crochet cotton about No. 40, fine steel hook. The antimacassar is worked in large wheels, and is joined by small ones. Large Wheel. Commence with 12 chain, join round, ist row — work 5 chain (3 chain to form treble), i treble into loop, 2 chain, i treble into same till you have 8 holes, slip-stitch into 3rd chain of the first 5 you made. 2nd row — make 12 chain, work i treble in the 4th chain from needle, also in next chain, then double treble in each chain all the way down, except the 2 last, in which single treble is put, double crochet in the ist treble of the 8 holes. Repeat this till you have 8 leaves ; slip-stitch all round the leaves and fasten off securely. Make another circle exactly the same, and lay it under the first one, so that i leaf comes between 2 of the upper leaves, all round. Join on your cotton in centre of top of an outside leaf with i double, 7 chain, i double in under leaf next to the upper one worked, 7 chain, i double in upper leaf, and repeat till all the 16 leaves are caught. Slip-stitch into 1st double made, ist row of edging — 4 chain (3 to form a treble), i treble in 2nd chain of previous row, * i chain, miss i chain in previous row, i treble in next, and repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — 4 chain, 2 treble into 2nd hole of previous row. Miss every other hole, and put 2 chain, 2 treble in every alternate one to end of round. 3rd row — 4 chain, i double treble between the 2 first trebles of previous row, 5 chain, slip-stitch into the 4th from needle. This forms a loop. Into this work 5 chain 1 double 5 times, 4 chain, I treble between the next 2 trebles. Continue all round. This completes the star. To join the large stars, complete one. In the second do all the picots of last row but 2. When you come to the loop holding the group of 5 chain i double, work only 2, then do 2 chain, i single into 3rd group of picot on other star, 2 chain, finish the picot. Do the next one the same, and finish wheel in the usual way. All the wheels can be joined thus, as also the small ones that connect them, or they may be sewn together. Small Wheel. Commence with 10 chain, make it into a loop. Into this work 4 chain and i double treble to form 2 double trebles, 7 chain, 2 double trebles till 8 holes are completed. Join round. 2nd row— 4 chain, i double crochet in 4th chain of last row, 5 chain, turn round, slip stitch in 2nd chain, turn back. Into loop thus formed work 5 chain, i double 5 times, 4 chain, double crochet between the 2 trebles of the last row. Repeat all round and join ; this completes small wheeh For the Fringe. 30 loose chain, and double crochet into every picot of the wheels all round, each length of chain being twisted. This is a pretty and uncommon fringe. ANTIMACASSAR STAR. Materials, 7 skeins of No. 8 croche cotton, fine steel hook. Commence with 9 chain — unite into a round, ist round, work 5 chain, i double crochet 9 times into circle, the first treble must be formed by 3 chain. 2nd round — join with slipstitch, 2 chain, i treble, into the back of the circle of 9 chain underneath first round g times. — 3rd round — join, double crochet in every stitch. 4th round — ^join, 3 chain, i treble into every double crochet, 1 1 times. 5th round — double crochet in every stitch. 6th round — 5 chain, 3 double crochet into every stitch of previous row 22 times. 7th round — join, 3 chain, 5 treble into middle stitch of the 3 double crochets of the 6th round. 8th round — double crochet into every stitch. 9th round — 3 treble, 5 chain, 3 treble into i stitch of the double crochet 18 times. loth round — 3 chain, i treble, 6 chain, i treble into the 5 chain of the 9th round. 3 cham, repeat into next 5 chain, nth round — work into the 6 chain of the loth round, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 3 chain to go into the next, and repeat the same. This completes the star. When a sufficient number have been done, either crochet or sew together, filling up centres by a simple chain in middle of picots of last round (that is, in working a picot where joining should come, which consists of three sets of double crochet with 5 chain between, do only 2 chain of the centre 5, insert needle in a picot of another star, make i single, do the other 2 chain, and finish the picot in the usual way. When all the stars are joined, work a border of 6 chain, i purl (made by 9 chain and in- serting needle in 6th, draw cotton through) into 1st picot, 12 chain, i purl, 6 chain, 1 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. single into 3rd picot of star, and repeat all round outside edges. 2nd row — fasten on in middle of 12 chain of previous row, 6 cliain, I purl, 6 chain, i purl, 6 chain, i purl, 6 chain, i single into middle of 12 chain of next loop,and repeat. Finish by a handsome fringe into each centre purl of outside edge. DEEP LACE. Materials : — Fancy antimacassar braid and No. 24 Coats's crochet cotton, ist row — double crochet into ist loop of the braid, 3 chain, miss I loop of braid and work 2 treble into the next, keeping the last stitch of the ist treble upon the needle until the 2nd treble is made, and work both off in i stitch ; 3 chain, work 2 long treble into next loop, finished as before (all treble in this row to be done the same), 3 chain, 2 long treble in same loop, 3 chain, 2 long treble into the same loop, 3 chain, 2 treble in next loop, 3 chain, miss i loop and repeat from beginning for length required. 2nd row — double crochet under ist 3 chain, 6 chain, double under next 3 chain, 6 chain, double crochet under next 3 chain, 6 chain, double crochet under next 3 chain, 6 chain, double crochet under next 3 chain, 6 chain, double crochet under ne.xt 3 chain, thereshould be 5 open holes with 6 chain between, 2 chain and repeat from commencement for length required ; this finishes bottom portion of the lace. 1st row on other side of the braid — double crochet into the first loop, 6 chain, turn and work i double into second from needle and in the next 4, i chain, turn and work 5 double crochet, taking back stitch of previous row, I chain, turn and work 5 double crochet as before, i chain, turn and work 5 double as before. Now take another piece of braid and work double crochet into first loop, turn and work 5 double crochet upon the previous 5 double in the little square, 5 chain, * miss 2 loops, and double crochet into the next on the edging braid, i chain, 5 double crochet on the S chain, i chain, turn, 5 double crochet, i chain, turn, 5 double crochet, miss 2 loops on top braid, and double crochet into 3rd loop, then 5 double crochet on last 5 in square, 5 chain, repeat from * for the length required. For the heading, work 2 treble into ist loop of braid, 4 chain, miss I loop, 2 treble in next, and repeat for the length required. PRETTY LACE. Materials : — Fancy antimacassar braid, Carlile's cotton No. 26, fine steel hook, ist row — 2 treble into I St loop of braid, 7 chain, miss I loop, double crochet into next loop, i chain, turn and work 7 doublecrochet into the 7 chain, * I chain, turn and work 7 double crochet above the last, taking back of stitch to make ridge; repeat from *four times more, miss i loop of braid, and repeat from the com- mencement for length required. 2nd row — I double crochet on first of 2 treble in previous row, 5 chain, double crochet on centre of side of square that lies nearest you; 6 chain, l double into point of square; 6 chain, i double in same point, 6 chain, miss 2 stitches, double crochet into the 3rd, 5 chain, and repeat from the commencement of the row. 3rd row — i double crochet into 1st loop of 5 chain, 6 chain, I double crochet in next loop, 6 chain, I double into loop at point, 6 chain, i double in the same, 6 chain, i double into next Icop, 5 chain, i double into the next loop, now do another double into first 5 chaia on next square, and proceed as before, work these 2 double very firm. For the heading — work I treble into every loop of the braid with i chain between each. FANCY LACE. Materials : — Fancy antimacassar braid and No. 24 Coats's crochet cotton, ist row — make a chain of 9 stitches, double crochet into the 1st loop of braid, 2 chain, double crochet into the next loop of braid, * 3 chain, miss 2 of your 9 chain, and work 4 treble into the next 4 stitches, 2 chain, and work i treble into the last stitch of g chain, turn. 2nd row — 5 chain (3 to form a treble), i treble on the 1st of the 4 treble, 2 chain, work 4 treble into the hole formed by 3 chain at beginning of 1st row, 3 chain, miss l loop of braid and double crochet into the next loop; 2 chain and double crochet into next loop of braid. 3rd row — 3 chain, 4 treble into the ist 3 chain of previous row, 2 chain, work i treble into the last of 4 treble in previous row, 2 treble into loop next it, and i treble on the next treble; 2 chain, and i treble on the last treble (formed by 3 chain) of prexious row. 4th row — turn, 5 chain, i treble on first of 4 treble in previous row, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into next stitch, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into next, 2 chain, 4 treble into last hole of previous row, 3 chain, miss i loop of braid, work i double crochet into next loop, 2 chain, double ciochet into next loop. This completes a point. The second one is done precisely the same from *, except that in the 1st row you turn, 3 chain, 4 treble into 1st hole, 2 chain, i treble on last of 4 treble. Every other row is like the ist point. For edge at bottom — double crochet into the chain of first open hole, make 7 chain, double crochet back into the 2nd chain to form a picot, I chain, miss i open hole and double crochet into the next, 7 chain, make picot as before, i chain, i double crochet into open hole at point, 7 chain, picot, 1 chain, double crochet into same hole again, 7 chain and picot, I chain, double crochet in same hole, 7 chain, picot, i chain, double crochet into next open hole, 7 chain, picot, i chain, miss I open hole, double crochet into next open hole, I chain, double crochet into next open hole, and repeat. For the top edge of braid — double crochet into ist loop, 2 chain, double crochet into next loop, and repeat to end for length required. ELEGANT LACE. Materials: Antimacassar braid,and Carlile's cotton 26. 1st row — take 2 loop of the braid at once, and double crochet in them, 5 chain, and repeat the same into eveiy 2 loops for required length. 2nd row-i double into ist loop of 5 chain, 6 chain, repeat along the row. 3rd row — work * 3 long treble into 1st loop of 6 chain, keeping the last stitch of each treble on the needle until the 3 are done then work all off in one, 7 chain, work 3 more, long treble as before into the same loop, 3 chain and i treble into next loop, 3 chain, and repeat from * all along the row. 4th row — work 3 long treble with 4 chain between into the ist loop of 7 chain 5 times, keeping stitches on the needle as before. 3 chain, i double crochet into loop formed by i chain of previous row, 3 chain and repeat from begin- ning of row. 5th row — i double crochet into 1st loop of 4 chain, 6 chain, i double into next loop, 6 chain, i double in next loop, 6 chain, i double in next 6 chain, i double under 3 chain of previous row, i double under ist 3 chain of next scallop, and proceed as before. For the heading i treble 2 chain into each loop of braid. PRETTY EDGING. Coats's cotton No. 24, and fine hook. 1st row — * 5 chain, turn, work 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the 3rd chain from needle, 2 chain, i treble into last of 5 chain; turn, 5 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into 3 chain of last picot; 2 chain, i treble into last of 3 treble in previous picot; turn, 5 chain (,3 chain to form a treble), I treble on ist treble of previous picot, 2 chain; 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into centre of same pici^^, 2 chain, i treble on last treble of previous ro\v (that is 3rd of the 5 chain), 5 chain; turn, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into last picot as before; 2 chain, I treble on last of 3 treble, 2 chain, i treble on next treble in previous roxv, 2 chain, i treble on last treble (formed by the 3 cham); 5 chain, turn, l treble on 3rd chain of previous treble, 5 more treble in next 5 stitches (should be 6 treble in all\ 2 chain, 3 113 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into next picot, 2 chain, I treble in last treble formed by 3 chain of previous row, 5 chain, turn, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into last picot, 2 chain, i treble on last of 3 treble of previous picot, 2 chain, 6 treble on the 6 treble in previous row, 2 chain, I treble on last treble, 5 chain, turn, i treble on 1st of 6 treble in previous row, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, i treble on next, 2 chain, miss 1 treble, i treble on last of 6, 2 chain, i treble on next treble, 2 chain, i treble on ist treble of last picot, 2 chain, work 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into last picot, 3 chain, i treble on 3rd of 5 chain you turned with. Repeat from * for length required. For the edge work — I treble into first open hole, 5 chain, double crochet back into ist chain to make picot, repeat in the 5 holes down one side. In hole at point work 4 treble with picots between each, work i treble with picot in the 4 holes at other side, then i treble without chain into 5th hole and another into i st hole of next point, and repeat for length re- quired. For the heading — make i treble, 2 chain into every open hole for length required. FAN PATTERN LACE. Make a chain of 7, put i treble into the 5th chain from needle, 3 chain i treble, 3 times more into the same chain ; this forms 3 holes. * Turn with 5 chain, i treble into centre hole, 3 chain i treble 3 times more into same hole. 5 chain, fasten with i single into the ist treble you made to form first group of three holes that lie at the left hand. This 5 chain connects your 2 groups of 3 holes each together, and forms a ring ; into this work 6 chain i treble, then 3 chain i treble 5 times more. 3 chain, i treble into centre hole of second group of 3 holes (it lies on your left) ; repeat till you have another 3 holes, turn with 5 chain, i treble into centre hole, 3 chain i treble 3 times as before, 3 chain, make 3 long trebles into first hole formed by the 6 chain i treble you put in your ring of 5 chain, 3 long trebles into the other 5 holes. Turn with i chain, i double into each of the long trebles, picking up the back stitch only, to give a ribbed ap- pearance. 3 chain, i treble into centre hole of 4th group of 3 holes (it lies at your left), 3 chain I treble 3 times into same hole. 5 chain to turn, i treble into centre hole of last group made, 3 chain i treble 3 times into same. 2 chain, i double into back loop of last double in previous row of double crochet, ] double into each double (always working into the back loop). Turn with i chain, i double into every double in previous row. 3 chain, i treble into centre hole of 6th group of 3 holes, 3 chain, i treble 3 times. Turn with 5 chain, i treble into centre hole of last 3, 3 chain I treble 3 times into same, 2 chain, work I double into every double of last row worked of double crochet. Turn, 6 chain, i double into 2nd double of previous row, 4 chain, i double into next but one. Repeat in every alternate double round the fan 114 Turn, 5 chain, i double into ist hole of last row. Turn, *, 4 chain, i double into every succeeding hole, 7 chain, put your needle into sth from it and draw cotton through ; this forms a purl. 2 chain, i double into ist hole. Repeat from * into every hole. 3 chain, work i treble into Sth group of 3 holes, 3 chain, i treble 3 times into same ; this completes one fan. Now repeat from first * at commencement. For a heading, work i treble, 3 chain, i treble into every hole along the top, with 4 chain between ; this must be done when the length of lace is completed. 4th picot of 3 holes. Make 3 holes as before, and repeat from *. For a head ing, work 9 chain i treble into every hole along the top, when the length of lace is completed. PRIMROSE PATTERN EDGING. Materials : — Clarke's Mile End crochet cotton No. 30, No. 7 steel crochet hook. Make a chain of 7 stitches, and join round with I double, ist row — turn, make 5 chain, work I treble into loop just formed,* 2 chain, I treble into the same loop, repeat from * twice (which forms a picot, or group of 4 treble with 2 chain between each). 2nd row — turn, 5 chain, i treble into the centre hole of last picot, then 3 chain i treble 3 times into the same (which forms another picot). 3rd row — turn, 5 chain, i treble into the centre hole of last picot, 2 chain i treble into the same 3 times, then work 2 chain, I treble 8 times into the 5 chain that you made in turning for your 2nd picot (it hes quite near your needle), 2 chain, i double crochet into the hole at commencement made by 7 chain. 4th row — turn, 5 chain, i double crochet into the ist hole formed by 2 chain in last row, 4 chain, i double crochet into the next hole, repeat 7 times more. This com- pletes one pattern. Now make 4 chain, and put 1 treble into the centre hole of picot nearest needle, 2 chain, i treble into the same. Repeat twice more, then go back to the 1st row again. For the heading — when you have done sufficient lace make a chain of 5, and work i double crochet into the 5th chain of picot, 5 chain, I double crochet into the next 5th chain, and repeat to the end of row. SHELL PATTERN EDGING. Make a chain of 6. Turn, make i treble into the 5th chain from your needle. Work 3 chain i treble 3 times into the same chain. This forms 3 holes ; * turn with 5 chains, i tre- ble intothe centre hole of the 3holes just made, 3 chain i treble 3 times in same hole. You have another picot of 3 holes. 5 chain, join into 1st treble of your ist picot of 3 holes. This forms a ring, and connects the 2 picots together. Turn and work 3 chain, i treble into the ring 5 times ; 3 chain, i treble into centreholeof your firstpicotof 3 holes; 3 chain I treble 3 times more. Turn with 5 chain and make another picot of 3 holes in centre hole of last ; 4 chain, i treble into the ist and every succeeding one of the 5 holes you made on the edge. Turn, put 5 chain i single into every hole in last row. Three chain, i treble into centre hole of Now Ready No. 5 of the FANCY WORK-BASKET Contains Mountniellick Embroidery, how to knit Quilts, Sofa Blankets, Shetland Shawl, Open Knitting in Stockings, Uudervesta for all ages, Shawls, Carriage Rugs, Lady's Jersey, Frocks, Petticoats for Jadies and children in new patterns. Gaiters, Babies' Boots, and a variety of other articles. Also how to Crochet Fancy Collarette, Ladies' and Children's Petticoats and Frocks, Child's Bonnet, Cotton and Wool Antimacassars, Edgings for Underllnen, and many other lovely things, and par- ticulars of Prize Competition. Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4 of the Fancy Wm-k-Baskct are still in pi'int. No. 1 contains full and explicit instructions for every kind of Fancy Work, Crewel Work, Embroidery, Knitting, Crochet, &c., with diagrams illustrating the various stitches, tested Recipes for Knitting and Crocheting Babies' Long Cloaks, Dresses and Boots, Shawls, and Winter Wraps, Crossovers, and Silk gloves. No. 2 contains Knitting and how to set about it, full directions for Stocking Ivnitting. No. 3 contains exhaustive articles on Home Decoration, showing how the home may be beautified at a small ex- pense. No, 4 contains a Chapter on Presents for Gentlemen. Also how to Knit handsome Shawl (the model of which was presented to Princess Beatrice as a wedding gift), Lady's Cape, Undervests, - suitable when chosen well ; but some think if they paint a bird it does not matter what the surroundings are : for instance, we have seen a flamingo, which is an Egyptian bird, painted standing amongst water lilies, which do not grow in Egypt. And, also, we have seen kingfishers perched on tiny grasses. Nothing should be painted which is not natural. Nature should be studied as much as possible. In conclusion, we will only say that it our readers do not attempt too much at first, but try something simple until they begin to feel their way, we arc sure they will be surprised at their success. One thing to be remembered is, always keep your palette, brushes, &c., clean — never put them away dirty ; it seems a little troublesome at first, but it sa\'cs a great deal of trouble in the end. 115 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. ►^ K^IWII^g THE CREEVE QUILT. This handsome quilt is worked in sections, 4 of which form I pattern, or square, and there are 49 sections in the quilt. The border is of a dice pattern, and to it is added a handsome edge instead of fringe. The illustration was knitted in No. 4, 3 thread unbleached (ecru) cotton, and 2 needles No. 13 (standard gauge), and the effect is very good ; but if a finer and lighter quilt is wished use Strutt's white knitting cotton. No. 6, 3 thread, Salmon tie (which is the best quality), and needles No. 15. If a tight knitter, use No. 14 needles. For Section of Square. Cast on 2 stitches, and increase i stitch by lifting the loop in the row below, and knitting it at end of each row till the half of the section is worked; knit in plain rows (like a garter) till there are 23 stitches on the needle ; knit 9 rows (still increasing) of i plain row, I purl row alternately, then knit i plain row, i purl row, i plain row, i plain row, i purl row. There should now be 37 stitches on the needle. 36th row — in this row, the stripe of openwork is commenced. Knit 3 plain stitches, * make a stitch by putting cotton round needle, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit a stitch, repeat from * to end of row. 37th row — purl. 38th row — knit 2 plain stitches, * make a stitch, slip 1, knit i, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one (as in 36th row), knit i, repeat from * to end of row ; end with 2 plain. 3gth row — purl. 40th row — knit I plain stitch, and knit same as in 36lh row to end of row. 41st row — purl. 42nd row — same as 36th row. 43rd row — purl. 44th row — knit 3 plain, then same as 3Sth row, from * to * and end the row with 2 plain stitches. 45th row — purl. 46th row — same as 40th row. 47th row — purl. 48th row — knit plain. 49th row — purl. There should now be 53 stitches on the needle. Now commence the pocket pattern. There are 3 rows of pockets, 1st row has 9 pockets across the row, next row of pockets has 10 pockets in it, and the 3rd row of pockets should have II pockets in it. 50th row— purl 2 stitches, * make a stitch by putting the cotton back and lifting the loop of next stitch in last row, and knitting it for a stitch, purl 6 stitches, repeat from * S times more, but last time there will be only 3 purl stitches instead of 6 stitches. 51st row — knit 3 stitches, * lift a loop, and purl it and the raised stitch in the last row, knit 6 plain stitches, repeat from * 8 times more, last time knitting 3 plain stitches instead of 6 stitches. 52nd row — purl 3 stitches, * raise a stitch same way as in 50th row, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 5 stitches, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with 4 purl instead of 6 purl stitches. 53rd row — knit 4 stitches, * raise a stitch and purl it and the 3 next stitches, knit 6 plain stitches, repeat from * 8 times more, ending with 4 plain stitches instead of 6 plain stitches. 54th row — purl 4 stitches, * raise a stitch, knit 4 plain, purl 6 stitches, repeat from * 8 116 times more, ending with 5 purl stitches instead of 6 purl stitches. 55th row — knit 5 plain stitches, * raise a stitch and purl it, and the 5 raised stitches, knit 6 plain stitches, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with 5 plain stitches instead of 6 plain stitches. 56th row — purl 5 stitches, * cast off 6 stitches thus : Knit i stitch, and then put back the stitch just knitted on the left hand needle, * knit 2 stitches together, and put the stitch back on the left-hand needle, and repeat from * till there are 6 stitches off (the raised 6 stitches for the pocket), purl 5 stitches, repeat from ist * in 56th row ; and end row with*4 purl instead of 5 purl stitches. 57th row — knit plain. There should be 61 stitches on the needle. 58th row — commeiice 2nd row of pockets, working them between the pockets of last row. Purl 3 stitches, repeat from * to * in 50th row 10 times ; and end row with 4 purl instead of 6 purl. 59th row — plain 4 stitches, repeat from * to * in 51st row 10 times; end row with plain 4 instead of plain 6. 60th row — purl 4, repeat from * to * in 52nd row 10 times ; and end row with purl 5 instead of purl 6. 6ist row— plain 5 stitches, repeat from * to * in 53rd row 10 times ; and end row with plain 5 instead of plain 6. 62nd row — purl 5, repeat from * to * in 54th row 10 times ; and end row with purl 6. 63rd row — plain 6, repeat from * to * in 55th row 10 times ; end with plain 6. 64th row^purl 6 stitches, repeat from * to * in 56th row 10 times ; end row with purl 6 stitches. 65th row- — knit plain. There should be 68 stitches on the needle. 66th row — purl 4 stitches and commence the 3rd row of pockets, working them between the pockets of 2nd row, and straight over the pockets in Ist row of pockets, work same as 50th row from * to *, repeat 10 times ; and end the row with purl 5 instead of purl 6 stitches. 67th row — plain 5 stitches, then same as 51st row from * to *, repeat 10 times; and end row with plain 5 stitches instead of 6 stitches. 68th row — purl 5 stitches, then same as 52nd row from * to * 11 times ; end row with plain 5 instead of 6 stitches. 69th row — plain 6 stitches, then same as 53rd row from * to * 11 times; end row with plain 5 instead of 6 stitches. 70th row — purl 6 stitches, then same as 54th row from * to * 11 times ; end row with purl 7 instead of purl 6 stitches. 71st row — plain 7 stitches, then same as g5th row from * to * 11 times; end row with plain 7, instead of 6 stitches. 72nd row — purl 7, same as 56th row from * to * 11 times ; end row with purl 7 instead of 6 purl stitches. 73rd row — knit plain 77 stitches across the row. 74th row — in this row, a second stripe of open-work is corhmenced, same as worked before, commencing in 36th row, and knit to end of 42nd row, when there should be 4 rows of holes worked, which is the centre of the section, the 2nd half of which is decreased by knitting 2 stitches together at end of each row, commencing in 82nd row, which purl. There should be 84 stitches on needle. 83rd row— continue the openwork till there are 7 rows of holes with a purl row between, taking care they are in their proper place, and decreasing the i stitch at end of each row. 88th row — purl. 89th row — plain. 90th row — purl. 91st row — (a pocket row), purl 7 stitches, * cast on 6 stitches (for pocket), purl 6, repeat from * 10 times more ; end row with purl 7. The last 2 stitches, which are knitted as i, is included in the purl 7. 92nd row — * plain 6, purl 2 together, purl 4, repeat from * 10 times more ; end row with plain 5, counting the 2 last stitches as i, as they are to be knitted together. 93rd row — purl 6, * slip a stitch, knit i stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, plain 3 stitches, purl 6 stitches, repeat from * 10 times more ; end row with purl 4 stitches, purl 2 together. 94th row — plain J stitches, * purl 2 together, purl 2, knit 6 plain, repeat from * 10 times more ; end row with plain 4, knit 2 together. 95th row — purl 5, * slip i stitch, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the plain stitch, knit i stitch plain, purl 6 stitches, repeat from * 10 times more ; end row with purl 3, purl 2 together. 96th row — plain 4, * purl 2 together, plain 6, repeat from * 10 times more ; end row with knit 3 plain, knit 2 together. 97th row — purl 4, * slip I stitch, knit i stitch, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, purl 5, repeat from * 10 times more ; end row with purl 2, purl 2 together. 98th row — knit plain. 67 stitches on needle. 99th row * purl 6, cast on 6 stitches (for pocket), repeat from * 9 times more ; end row with purl 4, purl 2 together. looth row — plain 6, * purl 2 together, purl 4, plain 6, repeat from * 9 times more; end row with plain 5, knit 2 together. loist row — purl 6, * slip I stitch, knit i stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, plain 3, purl 6, repeat from * 9 times more ; end row with purl 4, purl 2 together. 102nd row — plain 5, * purl 2 together, purl 2, plain 6, repeat from * 9 times more ; end row with plain 4, knit 2 together. 103rd row — purl 5, * slip I stitch, knit i stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit i, purl 6, repeat from * 9 times more ; end row with purl 3, purl 2 together. 104th row — plain 4, * purl 2 together, plain 6, repeat from * 9 times more : end row with plain 3, knit 2 together. 105th row — purl 4, * slip I stitch, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. purl 5, repeat from * 9 times more ; end row with purl i, purl 2 together. io6th row — knit plain (60 stitches) ; end row with knit 2 together. 107th row — * purl 6, cast on 6 stitches, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with purl 4, purl 2 together. io8th row- plain 5, * purl 2 together, purl 4, plain 6, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with plain 4, knit 2 together. 109th row— purl 5, * slip 1 stitch, knit i stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, 3 plain stitches, purl 6 stitches, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with purl 3, purl 3 together, iioth row — plain 4, * purl 2 together, purl 2, plain 6, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with plain 3, plain 2 together. 1 1 ith row — purl 4, *slip i stitch, knit i stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, plain i stitch, purl 6, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with purl 2, purl 2 together. 112th row — plain 3, * purl 2 together, plain 6 stitches, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with plain 2, plain 2 together. 113th row — purl 3, * slip I stitch, knit I stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, purl 5, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with plain i stitch, knit 2 together. 114th row — plain ; ending row with knit 2 together. The pockets are now all worked, and there should be 53 stitches on the needle ; now work 7 rows of holes to correspond with the open-work stripe in ist half of section. 115th row — plain 3 stitches, * make a stitch, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitcli, knit a plain stitch, repeat from * to end of row. i i6th row— purl, remembering to decrease i stitch at end of needle as before. 117th row — same as 115th row. iiSth row — same as ii6th row. Repeat these last 2 rows 5 times more. 129th row— plain, knitting 2 together at end of row. 130th row — same as 129th row. 131st row — purl, purl 3 togfether at end of row. 132nd and 133rd rows — same as 129th row. 134th row — same as 131st row. 135th row — same as 129th row. Repeat these last 2 rows until there are only 24 stitches left on the needle. Then knit the remaining rows plain (like a garter), decreasing i stitch at end of each row, till there are only 2 stitches left. Cast them off. The sections are all to be sewed together, and when that is done, knit the border. For the Border. Cast on 50 stitches, ist row — knit 5 stitches plain, and 5 stitches purl to end of row. 2nd row — purl 5 stitches, knit 5 stitches to end of row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more, and then reverse the dice pattern by knitting 7th row same as 2nd row, and 8th row same as 1st row. Repeat these last 2 rows twice more. Repeat from ist row till there is sufficient to go down one side of the quilt. Cast it off and sew it on. Knit a 2nd piece exactly the same and sew it on quilt. Knit a 3rd piece, allowing it long enough to go across the end of quilt and the border, sew it on and knit a 4th piece same as 3rd piece, and join to quilt. For the Edge. With the same cotton and needles as the quilt and border were knitted with cast on 28 stitches, ist row — slip i stitch, knit 2 plain, make a stitch (by throwing cotton over the needle to the front), knit 2 together, knit 23 plain stitches. 2nd row — purl 22 stitches, and turn back, and tihen knit 32 stitches plain. 3rd row — purl 23 stitches, knit 3 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 3 together, knit l stitch plain. 4th row — knit 3 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 23 stitches plain. 5th row — purl 22, turn back and knit 22 stitches plain. 6th row — knit 35 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 3 together, knit i stitch plain. 7th row — knit 3 plain stitches, make l stitch, knit 2 together, knit i plan, purl 33 stitches. 8th row — knit 2 plain stitches, * make 2 stitches by bringing forward the cotton to the front, and again round the needle to the front, slip i stitch, knit 3 stitches together, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitches, repeat from * 6 times more, knit 3 stitches plain, make i stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i stitch. 9th row — knit 3 stitches plain, make i stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i stitch, knit 1st of the 2 made stitches of last row plain, purl 2nd of the 3 made stitches and the next stitch, repeat from * 6 times more ; end the row with purl i stitch. loth row — knit 25 stitches plain, make I stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit I stitch plain. Repeat from ist row till there is sufficient knitted to go all round the quilt, and then sew it on. This quilt is a large size, and is suitable for a double bed, and takes 10 lbs. of cotton when No. 4 is used. COUNTERPANES. Raised Leaf Pattern. Materials : — No. 8 Strutt's knitting cotton, coarse steel needles. Begin with a long end, to be used for sewing the squares together. Cast on I stitch, ist row — wool forward, knit i. 2nd row — wool forward, knit 2. 3rd row — wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit i, 117 wool forward, knit i. 4th row — wool forward, knit i, purl 3, knit 3. 5th row — wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 3. 6th row — wool forward, knit 2, purl 5, knit 3. 7th row — wool forward, knit 5, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 5. 8th row — ■ wool forward, knit 3, purl 7, knit 4. 9th row — wool forward, knit 7, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 7. loth row — wool fonvard, knit 4, purl 9, knit 5. nth row — wool forvvard, knit 9, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 9. 12th row — wool forward, knit 5, purl 1 1, knit 6. I3tli row — wool forward, knit 11, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 11. 14th row — wool forward, knit 6, purl 13, knit 7. 15th row — wool forward, knit 13, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 13. i6th row — wool forward, knit 7, purl 15, knit 8. 17th row — wool forward, knit 1 5, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 15. 18th row — wool forward, knit 8, purl 17, knit 9. 19th row — wool forward, knit 9, take 2 together, knit 13, slip I, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 9 *. 20th row — wool forward, knit 9, purl 1 5, knit 10. 21st row — wool forward, knit 10, take 2 together, knit 11, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 10. 32nd row — wool forward, knit 10, purl 13, knit II. 23rd row — wool forward, knit 11, take 3 together, knit 9, slip I, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit II. 34th row — wool forward, knit 11, purl I, knit 12. 25th row — wool forward, knit 12, take 3 together, knit 7, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 12. 26throw — wool forward, knit 12, purl 9, knit 13. 27th row — wool forward, knit 13, take 2 together, knit 5, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 13. 28th row — wool forward, knit 13, purl 7, knit 14. 29th row — wool forward, knit 14, take 3 together, knit 3, slip I, knit 1, pass the shpped stitch over the knitted one, knit 14. 30th row — wool forward, knit 14, purl 5, knit 1 5. 31st row — wool forward, knit 15, take 2 together, knit i, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 15. 32nd row — wool forward, knit 15, purl 3, knit 16. 33rd row— wool forward, knit 17, take 2 together, knit 16. 34th row — wool forvvard, knit 16, purl 3, knit 17. 35th row — wool forward, knit 17, take 3 together, knit 17. 36th row — all purl. 37th row — take 2 together,knit the rest plain. 38th row — take 3 together, knit the rest plain. 39th row — take 3 together, all the rest purl. 40th row — take 3 together, knit the rest plain. Continue doing 2 plain rows and i purl, always remembering to take in i stitch till there is but i left. Cast off. Sew the square? together with the leaves meeting in the centre. Three Diamond Pattern. Cast on I stitch, ist row — cotton forward, knit i. 2nd row-^ forward, knit 2. 3rd row — forward, knit 3. 4th raw— forivard, knit 4. 5th row — forward, knit 5. 6th row — forward, knit 6. 7th row — forward, knit 7. 8th row — forward, knit 8. 9th row — forward, knit 9. loth row — forward, knit 10. nth row — forward, knit II. 12th row — forward, knit 12. 13th row — forward, knit 13. 14th row — forward, knit 14. 15th row — forward, knit i;. l6th I row — forward, knit 16. 17th row — forward, knit 17. 1 8th row — forward, knit 18. 19th row— forward, knit 19. 20th row — forward all purl (in purling after niaking a stitch, the cotton must be put THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. round the needle again.) 21st row — forward, knits, forward, take 2, together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 toge- ther, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit I. You have 5 holes. 22nd row — forward, all purl. 23rd row — forward, all plain. 24th row — all purl. 25th row — forward, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit i. You now have 6 holes. 26th row — like 22nd. 27th row — like 23rd. 28th row — like 24th. 29th row — forward, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit I. You now have 7 holes. 30th row — like 22nd. 31st row — like 23rd. 32nd row — like 24th. 33rd to 39th row — forward, knit plain. You have now 40 stitches on your needle. 40th row — knit plain without increasing. 41st to 47th row — take 2 toge- ther, knit plain. You have now 33 stitches on your needle. 48th row -^purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 49th row — take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forivard, take 2 together, knit 2, 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 3 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2. You still have 7 holes. 50th row — purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 51st row — take 2 together, knit plain to end of row. 52nd row — purl 2 together, purl to the end of row. 53rd row — take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 3 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2. You now have 6 holes. 54th row — like 50th. 55th row — like 51st. 56th tow — like 52nd. 57th row — take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2, forward, take 2 together, knit 2. You have 5 holes. 58th row— like 50th. 59th row — like 51st. 60th row — like 52nd. You have 20 stitches on your needle. Knit 20 plain rows, taking 2 together at the beginning of each row till there is i stitch left; cast off. HANDSOME SHAWL. Materials required :— 4 lb. of Shetland wool, and either bone or wooden needles, with knobs, No. 10. Commence with the lace. Chantilly Lace Pattern. Cast on 23 stitches, ist row — knit 2 together, make 2 (by throwing wool twice round needle), knit 3 together (by slipping i, knitting 2 together,, and taking the slipstitch over the 2 knitted ones), make I, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 6. You will have 22 stitches left. 2nd row — ^knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 3 together, make i, knit 3, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2, purl i, knit i. You have still 32 stitches. 3rd row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4. You have 23 stitches again. 4th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, knit i, make 1, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 4, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2, purl i, knit i. You have 34 stitches. 118 5th row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5,. make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 6. You have 25 stitches. 6th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 8, knit 3 together, make i, knit 7, make I, knit 2 together, purl i, knit I. You have 26 stitches. 7th row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 3 together, knit 11. You have 27 stitches. 8th row — knit 2, make l, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, knit 2, make i, knit 2, purl i, knit i. You have 28 stitches. 9th row- knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make 1, knit 3 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit I, make I, knit 2 together, knit 9. You have 39 stitches. loth row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, knit i, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2, purl 1, knit i. You have 30 stitches, nth row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, knit 7. You have 31 stitches. 12th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make I, knit 7, make I, knit 3 together, knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 7, make i, knit 2, purl i, knit I. You have 32 stitches. 13th row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, make I, knit 3 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, make I, knit 3 together, knit 5. You have 33 stitches. 14th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, knit 2, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, make I, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 2, purl i, knit i.. You have 36 stitches. 15th row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 3 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make i,knit 3 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 6. You have 35 stitches. i6th row — knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit I, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 3 together, knit i, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, knit i, purl I, knit i. You have 34 stitches. 17th row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 3 together, make I, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 7, make I, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 8. You have 33 stitches. i8th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 10. You have 32 stitches. 19th row — knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3 together, make I, knit 2, knit 2 I THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. together, make I, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, make I, knit 3 together, make i, knit 10. You have 31 stitches. 20th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 6, make i, knit 2 together, knit t, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3 together, knit 2 together, purl i, knit i. You have 28 stitches. 21st row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 3 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 6, knit 2 together, make i, knit 6. You have 27 stitches. 22nd row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 1, make i, knit 2 together, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit I. You have 26 stitches. 23rd row — knit 2 together, make 2, knit 3 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4. You have 25 stitches. 24th row — knit 2, make I, knit 3 together, knit I, make I, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, make I, knit I, make I, knit 2 together, knit 4, make I, knit 3 together, make I, knit 3 together, purl i, knit i. Repeat from 1st row till you have 23 points, thenl^nit i more point to form the corner. Do it thus : — Knit the pattern as stated, but only knit the heading (which is purl I, knit I in every alternate row) every 4th row, then pick up the stitches all the length of lace, and along the beginning end, and form the corner as before, the lace to be continued up each side along with the centre of the shawl. Pattern for Shawl. Cast on 12 stitches for each pattern, ist row — knit 5, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 4, repeat to end of row. 2nd row — purl 2, purl 2 together, make i, purl 3, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, repeat to end of row. 3rd row — knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, repeat to end of row. 4th row — purl 2 together, make I, purl 7, make i, purl 2 together, purl I, repeat to end of row. 5th row — knit 3 together, make i, knit 9, make i, repeat to end of row. 6th row — purl all the length of shawl. 7th row — knit i,make i, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make I, repeat to end of row. 8th row — purl all the length, gth row — knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make i, repeat to end of row. loth row — purl all the length, nth row — knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, make I, repeat to end of row. i2th row — purl all the length. 13th row — like 7th row. 14th row — purl all the length. 15th row — Like 9th row. i6th row — purl ail the length. 17th row — Like nth row. 1 8th row — purl all the length. 19th row — knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, make i, repeat to end of row. 20th row — purl 2, make i, purl 2 together, purl 5, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, repeat to end of row. 21st row — knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, repeat to end of row. 22nd row — purl 3, make I, purl 2 together, purl l, purl 2 together, purl 4. Repeat from 1st row, till you get 24 patterns, turn the corner as before, and knit the lace along the top, knitting them together, by picking up a stitch from the shawl, and knitting it with the last one of the heading of the lace, till you get to the corner, then turn as before, and finish off. ANTIMACASSARS OR COUVRETTES. The Arrow Pattern Is an old pattern, but effective and easily done. Cast on any even number of stitches, say 12, 14, or i6, as the case may be. 1st row — bring the wool Ijefore the needle and so make a stitch, and then knit on plainly until you come to the 2 middle stitches ; take the 2 middle stitches together, now knit plain to the end of the row. Every row like the 1st row. The stitch you make at the beginning makes up for the one you decrease in the middle. When you have worked 4 or 5 inches you can join on another colour, and so on to the end of the length required. Have all the divisions the same length. Be careful in arranging the colours to have thos • in one strip so placed that they will not clash with those in the others, which are on each side of it. There is a good deal of latitude allowed, as to what can come near in the way of colours, in a case like this ; but still, it is not good taste to put a blue near a green, except in some of the marvellous ssthetic shades which are rather going out of fashion. Yellow and black mix up well in couvrettes. The stripes can be crocheted together with black or maize, or they can be sewn. A crochet border can be added, or tassels, fastened to each point. The latter is a very usual plan. A new way would be to crochet about 2 rows of rather a close border in black or any dark suitable wool, and then add one of the little wool balls, used so much of late, and attached by a short chain to each point of the couvrette at the ends. 119 fi ERRING-BONE PATTERN. 1st row — slip I as if you were going to purl, and put the thread back, I plain, forward, narrow, i plain, forward twice, narrow, forward 3 times, narrow, I plain. 2nd row — knit 3, 1 purl, 3 plain, I purl, 2 plain, forward, narrow, i plain. 3rd row — slip I as for purling, put the thread back, i plain, fonvard, narrow, knit 9. 4th row — cast off 3, knit 6, iorward, narrow, 1 plain. Go back to the 1st row ; be careful to keep the stitches right when you bring forward 2 and 3 times. Both the above patterns, especially the first, can be recommended as good patterns, suitable for most purpose s just according to material used. 051 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. STRIPE FOR ANTIMACASSAR, COUVRETTES OR SHAWLS. This pretty pattern is most effective for couvrettes, sofa blankets, or antimacassars worked in double or single Berlin wool, German fingering, &c. For shawls, it is best done in Shetland. Use bone or wooden needles to correspond with the wool. Cast on 6 stitches for each pattern. Three patterns forms a nice stripe for an antimacassar, six for a sofa blanket, or they may be worked in one piece, which course should be adopted in the case of a shawl. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row —plain, but putting wool 3 times round the needle in every stitch instead of once— that is, insert your needle in the stitch of previous row, put wool round 3 times, and finish knitting the stitch, thus drawing through 3 strands instead of i. 4th row— * insert your needle in 1st stitch and slip it off, pulling out the other 2 loops you made by winding the wool 3 times round needle in previous row. You will have i long stitch. Repeat from * 5 times more. When you have these 6 long loops on your right hand needle, pull them out very evenly, and take up the FIRST 3 with the left hand needle, and slip them over the last 3. Keep these 1st 3 still on your left hand needle, and take the other 3 on the same. You will thus have a crossed bar. Knit the 6 off i by i in the ordinary way. Repeat from beginning of row. This is all the pattern. Repeat from ist row for length desired. 120 Raised Rib Pattern. RAISED RIB PATTERN. For Vest or Comforter. Cast on any number that will divide by 4 and leave 3 over, ist row — * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * till you have only i stitch left. Purl the odd stitch. 2nd row and every row — same as the ist. This is a very good pattern, being close and yet elastic. Especially good for warm comforters. THE CREEVE COMBINATIONS. For Child of Eight Years old. Seven skeins 3 ply fingering wool and 2 bone needles No. 8, and 2 needles No. ii are required for this most useful garment. White or any self coloured wool, such as light fawn or grey, is most suit- able. Six medium sized pearl buttons are required. For left leg — cast on 56 stitches on No. 11 needles. Rib for 30 rows by knit- ting 2 stitches and purling2 stitches alternately. 3 1 st row — take No. 8 needles, * knit 2 stitches, increase I stitch by knitting back half of last stitch before drawing it off the needle, knit to within 3 stitches of end of needle, increase I stitch same way as before, knit 2. 32nd row — purl. Repeat from * 1 5 times more. There should now be 88 stitches on needle. For body of drawers — knit ist row ; 2nd row knit 6 stitches for edge, purl 76 stitches, knit 6. 3rd row — ^knit 6, increase J stitch, knit to within 6 stitches of end of needle, inAease knit 6. 4th row — knit 6, purl 78, knit 6. 5th, 7th, 9th and nth rows — same as 3rd row. In 6th, 8th, loth and 12th rows — knit the 6 stitches at each end of needle to form edge, and purl the inter- I vening stitches. * 13th row — knit plain. 14th row— same as 12th THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. row. Repeat from * till you have 74 rows in body of drawers. Now form slope for back as follows — knit 50 stitches, turn and purl 44 stitches, knit 6 stitches. 77th row — knit 46 stitches, turn and purl 40 stitches, knit 6. Continue in this manner (knitting 4 stitches less each time) till only 10 stitches remain. For right leg — knit exactly the same as left leg. When you have knit the 30 rows of ribbing and require the No. 8 needles, slip the stitches of left leg on to one of the No. 1 1 needles. When you come to 24th row of body, make a buttonhole in each edge as follows. In ist edge knit 3 stitches, throw wool over the needle and take 2 together, knit I stitch. In second edge, knit i stitch, throw wool over needle and take 2 together, knit 3 stitches. When coming back just knit as usual, taking care to have 6 stitches in edge. When the 74 rows for body of drawers are completed form slope for back as follows. 75th row — knit plain. 76th row — knit 6, purl 44, turn and knit back. 7Sth row — purl 40, turn and knit back. Continue in this way purling 4 stitches less each time, till you have only 4 stitches to purl. Then join the legs in the following manner. After purling these 4 stitches, turn and knit 2. Now place the 8 stitches remaining of right leg side by side with 8 stitches at back edge of left leg, so that the edge stitches of the legs overlap each other. Be careful to have the right leg next you. Knit i stitch off each needle together as when finishing toe of stocking. Knit 42 stitches more of left leg. Leave the remaining 48 stitches on spare needle till commencing front of vest. For back of vest — turn and knit 3 and purl 3 stitches alternately till you have 92 stitches on needle, leave remaining 48 stitches of right leg on spare needle till commencing front of vest. The vest is to be ribbed throughout, and row — purl 2, knit 3, purl 3, knit 3, purl 3, knit 3, purl 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 3 and knit 3 eight times more. Purl 2, take 2 together, knit 2, purl 3 and knit 3 to end. 3rd row — rib as usual, taking care to keep the ribs straight. 4th row — purl 2, knit 3 and purl 3 twice, knit 3, purl i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 3 and knit 3 eight times more, purl i, knit 2 together, continue ribbing to end. 5th row — ribbed. 6th row — purl 2, knit 3 and purl 3 twice, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 3 and knit 3 seven times more, purl 3, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, rib to end. 7th row — ribbed. 8th row — purl 2, knit 3 and purl 3 twice more, purl 3, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 3 and knit 3 seven times more, purl 3, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2, rib to end. 9th row — ribbed. loth row — purl 2, knit 3 and purl 3, twice more, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 3 and knit 3 seven times more, purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 2, rib to end. There should now be 80 stitches on needle. Rib backwards and forwards till you have 86 rows from beginning of vest, cast off. Front of vest — commence at side of right leg, knit 40 stitches, join the legs in same way as at the back, taking care to have the right leg next you, knit remaining 40 stitches of left leg. ist row — purl 7, knit 3 and purl 3 thirteen times, purl 4 stitches more. 2nd row — knit 5, slip a stitch, knit a stitch and draw the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. This way of decreasing will in future be called " slip and bind ; " purl 3 and knit 3 twelve times, purl 3, take 2 together, knit 5. 3rd row — purl 6, knit 3 and purl 3 thirteen times, purl 2 more. 4th row — knit 3, slip i, knit i and take the slipstitch over, purl 3 and knit 3 twelve times more, purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 3. 5th row — purl 4, knit 3 and purl 3 thirteen times, purl I. 6th row — commence left front of vest, knit 2, slip and bind, purl 3 and knit 3 six times, knit 9 * turn, knit 8, purl i, knit 3 and purl 3 to end, turn back, knit 3 and purl 3 six times, knit 9. Repeat from * 35 times more. For neck — cast off 6 stitches. Be careful that they are edge stitches, * rib to end of row, rib back, cast off 6 stitches. Repeat from * twice more, rib to end of row, rib back. There should now be 21 stitches on needle; cast off. Commence right front of vest by picking up 8 stitches on 1st row of edge of left front so that right side edge will lap over left side edge, purl 3 and knit 3 five times, purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, turn and purl 4, knit 3 and purl 3 five times, knit 9, turn, knit 8, purl 3 and knit 3 five times, purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 2. Con- tinue this front to correspond with left front, except that in every i8th row of edge you make a buttonhole thus : — knit 4 stitches of edge, throw wool over needle and take 2 together. When coming back knit as usual ; there should be 3 buttonholes in front. The 4th will be made in neck. The edges of the fronts should be like a garter and there should be eight stitches across the whole way up. Sew up the shoulders. For sleeves — pick up 27 stitches on each side of shoulder seam. For right sleeve commence on back of vest, 40 rows from shoulder. Make an additional stitch after every 3rd stitch by picking up both the back and front loops of the stitch. For left sleeve commence on left front of vest, 20 rows from shoulder seam. There should be 54 stitches altogether on each sleeve, ist row — purl 9, knit 3 and purl 3 six times, purl 6 more stitches, knit 3. 2nd row — purl 3, take 2 together, knit 7, purl and knit 3 six times, knit 2 more stitches, knit 2 together, knit 2. 3rd row — purl 8, knit 3 and purl 3 six times, purl 5 more, knit 3. 121 4th row— purl 3, knit 2 together, purl 3 and knit 3 six times, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 2. 5th row— purl 7, knit 3 and purl 3 six times, purl 4 more, knit 3. 6th row— purl 3, take 2 together, knit 5, purl 3 and knit 3 six times, take 2 together, knit 2. 7th row— purl 6, knit 3 and purl 3 six times, purl 3, knit 3. 8th row— purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 3 and knit 3 five times, purl 3, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2. 9th row— purl 5, knit 3 and purl 3 six times, purl 1, knit 3. loth row— purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, purl 3 and knit 3 five times, purl 3, knit l, knit 2 together, knit 2. nth row —purl 4, knit 3 and purl 3 six times, purl i, knit 3. 12th row— purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 3 and knit 3 five times, purl 3, knit 2 together,knit 2. Continue to rib backwards and forwards till there are 56 rows from beginning of sleeve; take No. 11 needles, and rib 12 rows by knitting 2 and purling 2 alternately. Cast off. For neck —take No. 1 1 needles, begin at edge of right front and pick up 90 stitches round neck. Turn and purl back, turn and knit 4, make 4th buttonhole by putting thread twice over needle and knitting 2 together. After every 4th stitch put wool over needle and kni't 2 together. These holes are for string; there should be 16 holes besides the buttonhole ; turn and rib by knitting 2 and purling 2 for 5 rows. Cast off. Now sew up legs to where the edge of body of drawers begins. Sew up sides of vest and sleeves. Take 8 yards of wool, divide it into 3, and crochet a chain of the 3 strands of wool for neck string ; make 2 little tassels by winding some wool 9 times round your first and second fingers, tie them round in the shape of a tassel' and sew to each end of string ; sew 4 buttons down the front and 2 on left leg opposite the buttonholes. Some people like the edges of the open part of the drawers to be bound, as this prevents the laundress from pulling them out of shape. About I J yards of best flannel binding will be sufficient to do this. The pieces for the front of drawers should be about 9 J inches and for the backs i ih inches. THE CREEVE COMBINATIONS, For Child 3 Years Old. (On 2 Needles.) This most usefdl little garment is constructed on purely hygienic principles, and is particularly recom- mended for a deli- cate child. Its pe- culiarity is that warmth is equally distributed over the whole body,no vents being left to admit that enemy to health — a current of cold air. Our model is made of light fawn- coloured 3-ply fingering wool, and is suitable for winter wear. If a lighter texture is con- sidered desirable we recommend either merino, winter Shetland, or the new Angola manufactured by Messrs. Strutt & Co. 5 skeins 3-ply fingering wool, needles, Nos. 12 and,'i4, and 4 medium-sized pearl buttons will be required. Cast on 68 stitches on No. 14 needles. Rib 12 rows by knitting 2 and purling 2 alternately. T.^ke No. 12 needles. 13th row — knit plain. 14th row — purl. * 15th row — knit 2 stitches, make a stitch by knitting back of last stitch before drawing it off the needle, knit to within 2 stitches of end of row, make a stitch as before, knit 2, turn and purl next row, repeat from * 10 times more. 27th row — knit plain. 2Sth row — * purl. 29th row — knit plain. 30th row — purl. 31st row — same as 15th row; repeat from * 3 times more. This will make 1 5 increasmgs on each side of leg, and there should now be 98 stitches on needles. t 32nd row — purl. 33rd row — knit plain ; repeat from f 5 times more. Knit a 2nd leg exactly the same as ist leg. When you require the No. 12 needles for 2nd leg you can slip the stitches of 1st leg on to No. 14 needles, as they will not be required again for some time. You must now join the legs and commence body of drawers. Take ist leg and knit 50 stitches on to the needle upon which you have 2nd leg. Leave the remaining 48 stitches of 1st leg on spare needle till you are commencing the back of drawers. Now * turn and knit 4 stitches to form edge of side vent, purl 92 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. stitches, knit 4 to form edge of 2nd side vent, put remaining 48 stitches of 2nd leg on spare needle and leave till you are commencing back of drawers. 3nd row — knit plain, turn and repeat from * 7 times more. 17th row— knit 4, purl 92, knit 4. i8th row— knit 43, slip I stitch, knit 2 stitches together, and draw slipped stitch over knitted stitches, knit 8 stitches, knit 3 together, knit 43. The edge for side vent is now completed. Now purl and knit alternately for 7 rows. Narrow again in same way as before, leaving the 8 centre stitches of row between narrowings, and knitting 41 instead of 43 stitches before and after narrowing. Purl and knit alternately for 7 rows; repeat narrowings, knitting 39 stitches before and after narrowings instead of 41, as in last narrowing row. Purl and knit alternately for 7 rows, repeat narrowings, only knitting 37 stitches before and after narrowings. All narrowings should come in the knitted rows, and should always have the S centre stitches on needle between them. There should now be 84 stitches on needles. Purl and knit alternately for 5 rows. Next row— knit 3 stitches, slip I stitch, knit 2 stitches together and draw slipped stitch over knitted stitch, knit to within 5 stitches of end of row, knit 3 together, knit 2. Purl next row. Next row— knit 2, slip i, andknit i, draw slipped stitch over knitted stitch (in future this narrowing will be called " slip and bind "), knit to within 4 stitches of end of row, knit 2 together. Purl and knit alternate rows till you have S9 rows from beginning of body of drawers. You now begin front of vest, which is knitted in two sections. The 59th row was purled. * Turn and knit 43 stitches, turn and knit 8 stitches for edge of front vent, purl 35 stitches ; repeat from * 40 times. 8ist row- knit plain. For neck— turn and cast off 5 stitches, purl to end of row, * turn and knit back, turn and cast off 5 more stitches, purl to end of row ; repeat from * twice more. Turn and knit next row. There should now be 23 stitches on needle. Put them on spare needle till 2nd section of front is knitted. Commence 2nd section by raising 8 stitches on right side of ist row of edge of ist section, so that these 8 stitches will overlap the edge of ist section ; knit to end of row. There should be 43 stitches on needle. Turn, purl 35 stitches and knit 8. Make this section exactly to correspond with 1st section, but in every 20th row make a button-hole, thus — knit 4 1st stitches of edge, throw wool over needle and knit 2 together (the button-holes should always come in knitted row). There should be 3 in front of vest and a 4th will be made in neck band. For back of vest— take ist section of vest and cast on 32 stitches in addition to the 23 stitches left at shoulder ; knit the 23 stitches left at shoulder of 2nd section. There will now be 78 stitches on needle. Turn and purl back ; knit and purl alternate rows till you have iiorows from where you cast on stitches for back, rib lorowsby knitting 2 and purling 2, cast off loosely. For back of drawers — commence byraising the4 stitches onrightside of side vent in ist leg, knit the 48 stitches which were left on spare needle. Take 2nd leg and knit the 48 stitches which were also put on spare needle, raise 4 stitches on ist row of side vent of 2nd leg, ■* turn and knit 4, purl 96 and knit 4. There should be 104 stitches on needle. Turn and knit next row ; repeat from * 21 times more. 45th row- same as 1st row. 46th row — cast off 10 stitches, knit 35 stitches, slip I and knit 2 together, and draw slipped stitch over knitted ititch, knit 8, repeat narrowing, knit 45. 47th row—* cast off 10 stitches, purl to end of row, turn and cast off 10, knit to end ; repeat from * till all are cast off. Narrow in 50th row same as in 46th -row. Be careful to leave 8 clear stitches between the narrowings. For sleeves — commence right sleeve by counting 50 stitches down back of vest, beginning at shoulder, pick up the stitches .along side edge, and after every 3rd stitch make a stitch by taking first one side of the loop and then the other; continue picking up stitches till you have 60 on the needle ; the last .stitch should 'be 50 rows from shoulder on front of vest. * Purl back. Next row — knit 2 stitches, slip and bind, knit to svithin 4 stitches of end of needle, knit 2 together, knit 2 ; ■repeat from * till you have only 44. stitches on needle. Purl and knit alternate rows for 12 rows, rib 12 rows on No. 14 needles .by knitting 2 and purling 2, cast off loosely. Commence left sleeve .on front of vest, and knit it exactly the same as right sleeve. For neck band — commence at edge of 2nd section and pick up stitches on No. 14 needles all round neck. There should be 84 stitches. Purl back. Next row — knit 4 and make 4th button-hole by throwing wool twice round needle and knitting 2 together. After every 4th stitch make a hole by throwing wool once round needle and knitting 2 together. These holes are for neck string. 3rd row — knit 3 and purl 2. Continue ribbing till you have 7 rows in neck band, cast off. For gusset — cast on 12 stitches on No. 12 needles, knit and purl alternate rows till you have a perfect square, cast off. Now sew up legs to the top of increasings, leaving 12 ^plain rows for gusset, sew in gusset, sew up vest and sleeves, make .a calico b.ind measuring 12^ inches long and 14 inches deep, and 122 work 3 button-holes, sew band to back of drawers, make a string for neck by taking 4 yards of wool, divide it into 3 and crochet the 3 strands of wool into a chain, make 2 little tassels and sew them to each end after running it in and out of holes in neck band ; sew buttons down front of vest opposite button-holes. The back of drawers can either be buttoned to back of vest or to the child's stays, whichever is found most convenient. DRAWERS, For Boy of 3 Years Old. These drawers are intended to be worn in winter under either cloth trousers or white calico drawers. They are shore and fit tightly. They are very strongly recommended for delicate children as a prevention against many illnesses. 4 bone knitting needles. No. 13, are required, and 3 ozs. of scarlet 4-ply fingering wool. Commence the drawers at the bottom of the leg by casting on 55 stitches on 3 needles, as for a stocking, in the following order — on the 1st needle 20, on the 2nd 20, and on the 3rd 15 stitches. Join the stitches thus into a round, ist round — on the ist needle knit 3, purl 2, repeat these 5 stitches until 55 stitches are worked. This completes the ist round. Knit 19 more rounds the same. 2ist round — knit i, make i, by putting the wool over the needle, knit 53, make i in the same way as at the beginning of the round, knit I. 22nd round — knit i, make i, knit 55, make i, knit i. Knit 32 more rounds in the same way. There will be 2 more stitches between the made stitches each round that is worked. When these 34 rounds with the made stitches are finished there will be 123 stitches on the needles. SSth row — knit 123 stitches. Turn back as in the heel of a stocking. 56th row — purl 123 stitches. S7th row — knit 123 stitches. s8th row— purl 123 stitches. 59th row— knit 123 stitches. 60th row — purl 123 stitches. 6ist row — knit I, make i, as in the 21st round, knit 122 stitches. 62nd row — purl 124 stitches. 63rd row — knit 124 stitches. 64th row — purl 124 stitches. 65th row — knit 124 stitches. 66th row- purl 124 stitches. 67th row^knit i, make i, as in the 6 ist row. 68th row — purl 118 stitches, knit 6. 69th row — knit 124 stitches. 70th row — purl 118 stitches, knit 6. 71st row — knit l, make i, as in 6ist row, knit 123 stitches. 72nd row — purl 119 stitches, knit 6. 73rd row — knit 125 stitches. 74th row — purl 119 stitches, knit 6. 75th row — knit i, make i, knit 124 stitches. 76th row — purl 120 stitches, knit 6. 77th row — knit 126 stitches. 78th row — purl 120 stitches, knit 6. 79th row — knit i, make i,knit 125 stitches. 80th row — purl 121 stitches, knit 6. 8ist row — knit 127 stitches. 82nd row — purl 121 stitches, knit 6. 83rd row — knit I, make i, knit 126 stitches. 84th row — purl 122 stitches, knit 6. 85th row — knit 128 stitches. Repeat the last 2 rows (84th row and the 85th row) until 27 ribs of garter stitch (54 rows) at the edge are worked. This edge of garter stitch is in the front of the drawers, where they open. This will complete 120 rows from the beginning of the leg. 121st row — knit 125 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit I. 122nd row — purl 121 stitches, knit 6. 123rd row — knit 127 stitches. 124th row — same as 122nd row. 125th row — knit 124 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit i. 126th row — purl 120 stitches, knit 6. 127th row — knit 126 stitches. 128th row — same as 126th row. 129th row — knit 133 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1. 130th row — purl 119 stitches, knit 6. 131st row — knit 125 stitches. 132nd row — same as 130th row. 133rd row — knit 122 stitches, knit 3 stitches together, knit i. 134th row — purl 118 stitches, knit 6. 135th row — ^knit 134 stitches. 136th row — same as 134th row. 137th row — knit 121 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit i. 138th row — purl 117 stitches, knit 6. This row should end in front of the THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. drawers, at the garter stitch edge. Cast off 60 stitches, knit 63 stitches. 140th row — purl 63 stitches. 141st row— cast oiT 7 stitches, knit 56 stitches. I43nd row— purl 56 stitches. 143rd row —cast off 7 stitches, knit 49 stitches. 144th row— purl 49 stitches. 145th row— cast off 7 stitches, knit 42 stitches. 146th row— purl 42 stitches. 147th row— cast off 7 stitches, knit 35 stitches. i4Sth row — purl 35 stitches. 149th row — cast off 7 stitches, knit 28 stitches. 150th row — purl 28 stitches. 151st row— cast off 7 stitches, knit 21 stitches. 152nd row— purl 21 stitches. 153rd row — cast off 7 stitches, knit 14 stitches. IS4th row — purl 14 .stitches. 155th row — cast off 7 stitches, knit 7 stitches. 156th row — purl 7 stitches. 157th row — cast off 7 stitches. Knit the 2nd leg in exactly the same way. Work a gusset thus — cast on 3 stitches. 1st row — knit i, make i, knit i, make I, knit I. 2nd row — purl 5 stitches. 3rd row — knit I, make i, knit 3, make I, knit I. 4th row— purl 7 stitches. 5th row — knit i, make l, knit 5, make i. 6th row^purl 9 stitches. 7th row — knit I, make I, knit 7, make I, knit i. 8th row — purl 11 stitches. 9th row — knit l, make I, knit 9, make I, knit I. loth row — purl 13 stitches, nth row— knit i, make i, knit ii stitches, make I, knit i. I2th row — purl 15 stitches. 13th row — knit I, make I, knit 13, make I, knit I. 14th row — purl 17 stitches. 15th row— knit I, make I, knit 15 stitches, make I, knit I. l6th row — purl 19 stitches. 17th row — knit 19 stitches. 18th row — purl 19 stitches. 19th row — knit I, knit 2 together, knit 13, knit 2 together, knit I. 20th row — purl 17 stitches. 2lst row — knit I, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit I. 22nd row — purl 15 stitches. 23rd row — knit I, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit I. 24th row — purl 13 stitches. 25th row — knit i, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit I. 26th row — -purl 11 stitches. 27th row — knit i, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit i. 28th row — purl 9 stitches. 29th row — knit i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit i. 30th row — purl 7 stitches. 31st row — knit i, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, knit i. 32nd row — purl 5 stitches. 33rd row— knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, cast off 3 stitches. Sew the gusset in thus — hold the wrong side of the drawers next you ; with needle and red wool sew the corner of the gusset (at which you cast off) to the ist row of garter stitch in the fronts of drawers, thus joining both legs to corner of gusset. Sew the gusset and drawers together so as to bring the next corner of gusset to where you began to knit in rows, instead of rounds. Count 18 rows from this point up the back of drawers, and sew the next side of gusset to it. Join the other half of gusset in the same way, and join the remaining rows of backs together. Sew the drawers to a narrow calico band in which button-holes are to be worked to suit the child's stays. PETTICOAT, For Child about i Year Old. Materials : — Alliance yarn, 2 hanks or skeins, and 2 bone pins No. 7, with knobs at the ends. 15 or 18 inches is a good length for a petticoat. If you have shorter pins there is no room for the stitches, and longer they are clumsy. Judging from experience, 15 inches is the proper length. You can then put your needle under your arm and get a good deal of support * when the work gets heavy. A * \ variation of this pattern is given \ in this No., in the form of "Arrow l\* ' iPs-ttem" for antimacassars, fcouvrettes, rugs, &c. There are scallops in the petticoat, ]2 stitches are needed for each scallop, therefore altogether you Set on 240 stitches loosely, so that the bottom of your petticoat will be elastic, ist row — * wool forward, knit 5 plain, take 2 together, knit 5 plain again. This completes one scallop. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row — just like the 1st. Repeat the ist row until you can count 25 ribs of plain knitting in the plain part of the scallop. You will have 50 rows to make 25 ribs, You now shape the petticoat a little by narrowing as follows : — 1st row — * wool forward, knit 4 plain, take 2 together, take 2 together, knit 4 plain, and repeat from * to the end of the row. You have 1 1 stitches now to each scallop. 2nd row — * wool forward, knit 4 plain, take 2 together, knit 5 plain, and repeat from * to the end of row. Repeat this 2nd row you have just done 3 123 0^i \ / ^\ \ need 240 stitches. times more. 6th row — in this you narrow again, * wool forward, knit 3 plain, take 2 together, take 2 together, knit 4 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row. You will have 10 stitches left to each scallop. 7th row — * wool forward, knit 4 plain, take 2 together, knit 4 plain, repeat from * to end of row. 8th row — * wool forward, knit 3 plain, take 2 together, take 2 together, knit 3 plain. You have 9 stitches left to each scallop. 9th row — plain, without de- creasing, that is * wool forward, knit 3 plain, take 2 together, knit 4 plain, repeat from * to the end of row. This just takes your 9 stitches. loth row — narrow again, '■ wool forward, knit 2 plain, take 2 together, take 2 together, knit 3 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row; 8 stitches left to each scallop, nth row — no decreasing, * wool forward, knit 3, take 2 together, knit 3, and repeat from * to the end of the row. You have still S stitches. 1 2th row- — * wool forward, knit 2, take 2 together, take 2 together, knit 2, repeat from * to the end of the row. You will have 7 stitches to each scallop, and 140 in the width of the petticoat ; and there will be about 31 ridges of plain knitting in the depth of the petticoat. For the waist — 1st row — * i plain, i purl, repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row — like the ist. 3rd row — slip i, knit I, * wool forward, take 2 together, repeat from * till you ha\'e only 2 stitches left, knit those 2 plain. 4th and 5th rows— like the the I3t, I plain, I purl. This completes the petticoat part. For the bodice — knit 2 together, knit i plain, knit i plain again, purl 3 (not together, but one after the other), * knit 3, purl 3, repeat from * till you have 4 stitches left at the end of the row, purl 2 together, purl each of the remaining 2. By having taken 2 together at the beginning and end of the row you will have 138 stitches instead of 140, and your ribs of knitting come out evenly in 3 and 3. 2nd row — * knit 3 plain, purl 3, and repeat from * to end of the row. 3rd row — like the 2nd, 3 plain, 3 purl. 4th row — knit plain. 5th row — purl. 6th row^knit plain. 7th row — do ribbing again, but reverse the ribs, that is, begin * 3 purl, 3 plain, and repeat from * to the end of the row ; this brings the purl rib over the plain one in the previous set of ribs. This plan makes basket pattern. Sth and 9th rows — like the 7th. loth row — plain knitting, nth row — purl. I2th row— plain knitting. You must now divide for the arms. You should have 138 stitches. 13th row — this is ■ a rib row, * knit 3, purl 3, and repeat from * till you have worked 30 stitches, cast off the next 6 stitches, then knit 3, purl 3 till you have 66 stitches for the front, cast off the next 6 for the bottom of the 2nd armhole. You should have 30 stitches left for the 2nd back. Be careful in casting off the ist back not to cast off the 30th stitch, bid the 2,1st, or the work will not come right, and one is a little apt to make a mistake if not careful. You can count in the following manner if you like — each rib of 3 plain, 3 purl, is a set. There will be S sets to the 1st back or 30 stitches, i set under the arm or 6 stitches, 1 1 sets in the front or 66 stitches, I set or 6 stitches for the 2nd arm, 5 sets or 30 stitches for the 2nd back. Altogether these numbers will make the 138 stitches you started vAih for the bodice. You must now work each back and the front separately till the requisite height in the neck is reached, and to do this satisfac- torily you will find it an advantage to take a 3rd needle, or, if you have not one at liberty, then take up the stitches of I back and the front on a coarse piece of wool by means of a large darning needle, so as to liberate your 2nd needle. Work on i back for 4 more patterns, that will be 24 rows, keeping the alternate ribs and plain rows all the time as follows — in the 13th row you di\'ided for the arms. 14th row — worked on 30 stitches of i back, * knit 3, purl 3, and repeat from * to the end of the 30 stitches. 1 5th row — the same as 14th. i6th row — plain knitting. 17th row — purl. i8th row — plain knitting. 19th row — * 3 purl, 3 plain, repeat from *_to end of row. 20th and 2lst rows — same as 19th. 22nd row — plain. 23rd row — purl. 24th row — plain knitting. 25th row — * 3 plain, 3 purl, and repeat from * to the end of the row. 26th row — 3 plain, 3 purl, &c. 27th row — 3 plain, 3 purl, &c. 28th row — plain. 29th row — purl. 30th row — plain. 31st row — 3 purl, 3 plain. Sic. 32nd and 33rd rows — same as 31st. 34th row — plain. 35th row — purl. 36th row — and the last, plain knitting, and cast off as you knit it, until you have only 8 stitches left ; knit back and forth on those S stitches for an inch and a half, or until you can count 7 libs of plain knitting ; cast off. You thus finish I back and a shoulder strap. Finish the 2nd back in the same way as the ist, making the shoulder strap as before. Finish the front in the same manner, but making no straps. The knitting part is now finished. Se\y the straps to the front of the bodice, and then sew the petticoat up at the back, leaving a small placket' hole. Crochet a neat scallop round the bottom of the petticoat, round the amis and neck, and then down the backs and placket hole. Put buttons and button-holes or strings, and run strings in the waist and neck. For anyone who cannot crochet, the last row in the neck can be taken up all round, after the shoulder straps are se^vn in place, and a row of holes THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, knitted, and a row of plain and purl to finish off the neck . For the armholes — take up half the stitches round them, and knit 3 or 4 rows of I plain, i purl, then cast off, take up the other half and knit them in the same manner, and cast off. You can easily join the two sides with a needle and thread. Of course if you have 4 pins you can wOfk round the arfflhole like a stocking, but if you have only 2 you must do half at a time, and it does just as well to do half at a time. For the bottom — take up the stitches, either half before sewing up, or all at once; take them up with the wrong side of the petticoat towards you. ist row —having the right side towards you, knit plain. 2nd row— purl. 3rd row— * wool forward, knit 2 plain, and repeat from * to end of row. 4th row— purl back. 5 th row — * wool forward, knit 3 plain, and repeat from * to end of row. 6th row — purl back. 7th row — * wool forward, knit 4 plain, repeat from * to end of row. 8th row — purl back. 9th row — cast off, not too loosely, and do not draw it in too tight. This knitted edge is about i\ inches deep, and could be added later if the petticoat even became too short for the child. Pink, brown, blue, or scarlet are all pretty colours ; scarlet or white wash nicely. BOOT FOR INFANT— NEW PATTERN. Materials re- quired : I ounce of best white Berlin fingering wool, I ball of blue (pale) Pom- padour wool,and 4 steel needles No. II. Ifatight knitter, it would be better to use needles No. 10. Cast on with the white wool 39 stitches. For the leg knit 6 plain rows (like a garter), always slipping the first 1 stitch. Then knit 2 rows of brioche knit- ting, which is knitted thus : — *wool round the needle to make a stitch, slip a stitch as if about to' purl it, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — same as 1st row. These 2 rows count as i row of brioche knitting. nth row and 5 following rows knit plain, then knit 10 brioche rows. 27th row * — make a stitch, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of the row. 28th row — purl, then knit 3 brioche rows. 35th row— knit 15 stitches in brioche knitting, and with a 3rd needle knit 9 stitches in brioche stitch (for the instep) backwards and forwards for 4 brioche rows, then continue these same 9 stitches in plain rows for 9 rows, then pick up the stitches at each side of the' instep. There should be 59 stitches on the needles in all. Next row purl, increa- sing I stitch at the toe, there will then be 60 stjtches on needles. Now knit in rounds instead of rows ; you will require 4 needles, and must knit as in a stocking, i st round of foot — knit plain. 2nd round — purl. 3rd round — plain, decreasing i stitch at each side of the toe, leaving 4 stitches between the decreasings. 4th round — purl. 5th round — plain, again decreasing at each side of the toe, leaving 2 stitches between the decreasings. 6th round — purl, decreasing i stitch at the heel. 7th round — plain, decreasing at the sides of the toe, leaving no stitches between the decreasings, decrease also at each side in middle of foot (half way between the toe and heel). Sth round — purl. 9th round — plain, decreasing I stitch at heel and toe. loth round — purl, decreasing i stitch at each side in middle of foot, between the toe and heel, nth round — plain, decreasing I stitch at heel and toe. 12th round — purl. 13th round — plain, decreasing i stitch at the middle of foot between the toe and heel. 14th round — purl, and then cast off by putting the sides of the foot together on the right side, and knitting off thus : * take a stitch from each needle (the stitches should be on 2 needles), and knit them together, knit 2 more stitches in same way, and slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch. Repeat from * till all the stitches are cast off. Sew up the leg with the blue Pompadour wool and a rather fine bone crochet hook *, work 4 treble into i stitch of the knitting at the top of the leg, miss 2 stitches, and into the 3rd knit- ted stitch work i double Crochet, repeat from * all round. Work 124 ■ y... a'- — -r, .1 another row of crochet the same, but turning the work so as to have the crochet right side out when finished, and laid flat, work- ing the stitches into same places as ist row, but reversely, as shown in illustration. When worked, sew down the 2nd row of crochet, to keep it in place. Work some stitches with the blue wool, in cross stitch. 1st row of cross stitch — i cross stitch in every 6th stitch of nth row of the leg of boot. 2nd row of cross stitch — work a cross stitch in every 6th stitch of the 15th row of boot, taking care to work them between the cross stitches worked in the i ith row. For cord to put through the holes made in 27th row of boot, to tie at the ankle. Take 2 lengths of white wool and 2 of the blue, and twjst them together. Make 3 round balls and sew them I to each end of the cord, and i on the toe of the boot. To make the balls, cut 2 circles of card, taking care they are exactly the same size, a little larger than a shilling, with a hole in the centre. With a needle and same wool as the boots are worked with, sew evenly over both cards ; continue to sew over and over until the centre hole is quite filled ; cut the wool between the cards with a very sharp pair of scissors, and tie the wool tightly in the centre between the cards, then remove the cards, rub the ball in the hand, steam it over boiling water, and trirn to a good shape with a pair of scissors. Should there be any difficulty in getting the coloured wool, a ball of pale blue knitting silk would do instead. BOOT FOR INFANT. This boot is knitted on two pins. No. 16; Joz. pink and -^oz. white Andalusian or 3-thread Lady Betty wool. Cast on 50 stitches with the pink, ist row — knit plain. 2nd row — knit the 3 first stitches ; * purl 2, knit 2. Repeat from '^ until you come to the last 3 stitches, which must be knitted. 3rd. and 4th rows — like the 2nd. 5th row — plain. 6th row — purl. 7th row — slip the ist stitch, * take 2 together. Re- peat from * ; knit the last stitch. Sth row — slip the ist stitch, * put the wool over the needle to increase; knit i, repeat from *, but do not put the wool over before knitting the last stitch. You will have 50 stitches on your needles again. 9th row — knit every stitch. loth row — purl every stitch. nth row — slip I , take 2 together ; continue to knit 2 together until you come to the last stitch, which must be knitted. 12th row — the same as Sth. 13th row^ — plain knitting. 14th row — purl. Now join the white wool. 15th row — plain. i6th to 24th rows — like the 2nd, remembering to do 3 plain 'stitches at the beginning and end of everj' row. 25th row — plain knitting. 26th row — purl. 27th row — slip the 1st stitch, *take 2 together. Repeat from * ; knit the last stitch. 28th row — slip the 1st stitch, * pass the wool over the needle, knit 1, repeat from *, knit i. You ought now to have 50 stitches. 29th row — plain knitting. 30th row — purl. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more, so as to have 4 rows of ornamental holes ; remember that you must never have more than 50 stitches. Join the pink wool, ist row — slip i, take 2 together, knit 10, take 2 together, knit 20, take 2 together, knit 10, take 2 together, knit i. 2nd row — knit plain. 3rd row — slip i, take 2 together, continue to knit plain, until you come to the 3rd and 2nd from the end, which must be knitted together. 4th row — plain knitting. 5th row — knit 14. Join the white, knit 16, turn round and work on these i6stitches in white, leaving the pink on the needle without working them. Purl a row. Then slip the ist stitch, *take 2 together. Repeat from *, knit i. The next row slip i, and increase before every stitch by passing the wool over the needle, except before the last : you ought now to have 16 stitches. Knit a row, purl a row. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times more. You ought now to have 5 rows of ornamental holes. Cast off the white, and go on with the pink on the right-hand side. Pick up 1 1 stitches from the side of the white flap, make 1 1 more stitches. Knit 14 rows. 15th row, for begin- ning of toe — * slip the ist stitch, take 2 together. Knit the rest plain. i6th row — plain knitting. 17th row — slip i, take 2 together, the rest of the row being plain knitting. i8th row — plain. 191)1 row — slip i, take 2 together, take 2 together again, the rest plain knitting until you come to within 3 of the end, when you knit 2 together, the last stitch plain. 20th row — knit plain. 2 1st row — slip the ist, knit 2 together, knit 2 together again, continue plain knitting to within 5 of the heel, when you knit the 5th and 4th together, knit the 3rd and 2nd together, and the last stitch plain. 22nd row — knit plain. 23rd row — slip the ist, knit 2 together, knit THE FANCY WORK-BASKET 2 together again, plain knitting till the 2nd and 3rd from the end, which you must knit together. 24th row— plain. 25th row — slip i, take 2 together, the remainder plain. 26th row — plain. 27th row — slip I, knit 2 together, the rest plain. 28th row— plain, cast off. Pick up 1 1 stitcJies of pink at c to form the toe. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row — knit i, make I by knitting the front and back of the stitch, knit the rest plain. Repeat these 2 rows 6 tiroes more; you will have 18 stitches. Knit 3 rows plain. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — knit I, take 2 together, rest plain. Repeat these 2 rows 6 times more ; you will have 1 1 stitches. Pick up 1 1 white stitches at the side of flap d, still knitting with pink wool, and take up the 14'stitches at e. Knit 14 rows in pink. Go back to * at the 15th row and end at the 28th row. Sew the boot together with pink wool. CUFF IN LOOPED KNITTING. Materials : — 1 skein of part- ridge wool, two steelneedlesNo. 10. Cast on 25 stitches. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — slip I, * take the next stitch on the needle, throw wool twice over needle and first finger, draw through, knit 2, repeat from *. 3rd — plain. 4th — plain. 5th — plain. Repeat the last 4 rows 22 times more. Cast off and sew up. This cuff can be varied in size and colour ac- cordingtofancy. It will sell readily at bazaars, or be found most useful to those who wish to offer a small gift at slight expense and little trouble. HOUSEMAID'S KNEE CAPS. Materials required :— 3 bone knitting pins, No. 10, 2 ounces of best Scotch fingering wool, scarlet or white, or if preferred very thick and warm, 3 ounces of Alloa or Wheeling yarn. Cast on 36 stitches. Knit 6 rows plain, always slipping the first stitch. 7th row— slip I, knit 15 plain, then to increase a stitch knit the next stitch, but before taking it off the left piri^ass the right pin into the back of the same stitch and knit it off, knit the rest of the row plain. Knit 29 more rows like the last, when there will be 56 stitches on the pin ; then knit 6 rows without widening. The next will be the 43rd row— slip i, knit 49 plain and turn back, leaving 16 stitches unworked, which must be cast off on to another pin. Then knit the 50 stitches plain for 6 rows. Then repeat from the 43rd row— viz., by knitting 6 rows plain,taking on the stitches from the 3rd pm, thus having the 66 stitches again. This shaping will make one side wider than the other, so as to fit the upper part of the leg. Then slip i, knit 14 plain, knit 2 together, the rest plain. Work 20 125 rows more same as the last, when there will be 36 stitches. Work these for 6 more rows and cast off. Sew or knit the two edges together. A row of plain double crochet might be put at one edge so as to distinguish one side from the other if wished. WOOL RESPIRATOR. Materials required : — 2 steel knit- ting pins. No. 14, ^ ounce black, 4 ounce white single Berlin wool, 1 yard of fine black elastic, and a small piece of medicated wool. Cast on 3 stitches in the white wool and increase in each row by knitting i plain, then knit i, and before taking it off the left pin put the right pin into back of the same stitch and knit it off the left pin. Knit the next plain, and keep working in the same way until there are 22 stitches. Then work these 22 backwards and forwards for 42 rows or 21 ribs, then decrease i in every row by knitting i plain, knit 2 together in each row until there are only 3 stitches left on the pin ; cast oflT. Now for the black piece. Cast on 5 stitches in the black wool and increase in same way as the white until there are 26 stitches on needle. Then work backwards and forwards for 44 rows or 22 ribs. Then decrease in same way as white piece, until there are only 5 stitches left. Cast off Join both pieces very neatly with a needle and cotton, first putting a small piece of medicated or cotton wool between. The white of course is to be inside. .Sew a double piece of the fine elastic at each end to pass behind the ears. This is a very healthy respirator, much recommended by the medical profession, as it can be so easily washed, and fresh wool put in from time to time ; and also it is very inexpensive, and can come within reach of all invalid^. DISH CLOTH. Most matrons are familiar with a very untempting-looking article, grey in colour, and generally greasy-looking, with long, stragg- ling, ragged ends hanging from it in all directions. The dish cloth might often be very appropriately described thus. We blush to con- fess it that such was a familiar object in our own scullery until we commenced the practice of knitting them. Since then we can always see a tidy cloth hung up by a loop on its proper peg. As it gets plenty of air it never gets a sour smell, and as cook no longer looks upon it as "only an old rag" she seldom has it greasy and never grey-looking. It is only the work of an evening to make one, and they are so strong that they last a long while. With the coarsest unbleached knitting cotton you can procure, and a pair of No. 10 bone knitting needles, cast on 50 or 60 stitches, according to the size you wish, and knit backwards and forwards in garter stitch until you have a square, then cast off. Before breaking off the cotton take a bone crochet needle and make a chain of about 34 or 4 inches ; fasten it into the corner from which it started and crochet a double stitch into each of the chain stitches, to strengthen it; fasten off. This forms the loop by which it is to be hung up. This kind of knitted cloth is useful for a great many other house- hold purposes, such as window cl eaning, &c. PRETTY EDGINGS. These edgings can be adapted for almost any purpose by changing the material and needles. Knitted as represented in fine crochet cotton they are lovely for hangings and ladies' and children's garments. Wide Edging . — No. I. Suitable in cotton for trimming children's clothing, pillow slips, or dressing table covers, in wool, for bordering shawls, &c. Cast on 24 stitches, ist row — slip l, knit 2, thread forward, narrow (by knitting 2 stitches together), knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit i, thread forward twice (that is put the thread round the needle and bring it to the front again), narrow, knit i, thread forward, knit 11. 26 stitches. 2nd row — knit i, narrow 5 times, thread forward, knit I, narrow, knit I, purl i, narrow, thread forward, knit 5, thread for- ward, narrow, knit I. 21 stitches. 3rd row — slip i, knit 2, thread I'HE FANCY WORK-BASKET. forward, narrow, knit 4, thread forward, narrow, narrow again, knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit 4. 20 stitches. 4th row — knit i, purl 2, narrow, thread forward, knit I, narrow, thread forward twice, narrow, thread forward, knit 7, thread forward, narrow, knit i. 21 stitches. 5th row — shp I, knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit 6, thread forward, knit 2, purl i, narrow, knit i, thread forward, slip i. narrow, pass the slipped stitch over the narrowed one, knit i, 20 stitches. 6th row — narrow, knit i, thread forward, narrow, knit I, narrow, knit i, thread forward, narrow, knit 6, thread forward, narrow, knit i. 18 stitches. 7th row— slip i, knit 2, thread for- ward, narrow, knit 3, narrow, thread forward, knit I, narrow, thread forward twice, narrow, thread forward, knit 3. 19 stitches. 8th row — knit I, purl 3, thread forward,* knit 2, purl i, narrow, knit i, thread forward, narrow, knit 4, thread forward, narrow, knit i. ig stitches, gth row — slip i, knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit i, narrow, thread forward, knit i, narrow, knit i, narrow, thread for- ward, knit 5. 18 stitches. lothrow — knit i, purl 5, thread forward, narrow, thread forward twice, narrow, knit I, thread forward, narrow, knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit i. 19 stitches, nth row— slip I, knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit i, thread forward, knit i, narrow, knit i, purl i, knit i, thread forward, knit 7. 20 stitches. 1 2th row — knit I, thread forward, purl i,t thread forward, purl I, thread forward, purl i, thread forward, purl i, thread forward, narrow, thread for^vard, knit 3, narrow, knit i, thread forward, knit I, narrow, knit i, thread forward, narrow, knit I. Begin again at the 1st row, and repeat for the length required. No. II. S?Sl^;*WF'9^'"?TW^Vt"5^ Sewing cotton and - }^ ^ " % fine steel pins. Cast ~ T on 19 stitches, ist row f — make i (by putting j| the thread over the V , needle), narrow (by knitting 2 loops toge- ther), knit II, narrow, make i, knit 4. 19 stitches. 2nd row — narrow, make 2 (by puttingthe thread twice over the needle), nar- ^____ row, make i, knit I, make i, narrow, knit 12. 20 stitches. 3rd row — make i, narrow, knit 9, nanow, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2, purl I, knit i. 21 stitches. 4th row — knit 4, make i, knit I, make I, narrow, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 10. 22 stitches. 5th row— make i, narrow, knit 7, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 4. 23 stitches. 6th row — narrow, make 2, narrow, make i, knit i, make i, narrow, knit 2, make I, narrow, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 8. 24 stitches. 7th row — make i, narrow, knit 5, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2, purl i, knit i. 25 stitches. 8th row— knit 4, make I, knit S, make i, narrow, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 6. 26 stitches, gth row— make i, narrow, knit 3, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit I, narrow, make i, knit i, make i, narrow, knit i, make I, * When you have to make a stitch after purling, keep your cotton to the front, and throw it over the needle, then knit the next stitch. t In purhng a stitch after making one you must bring the cotton forward a second time. 126 knit 4. 27 stitches. loth row — narrow, make 2, narrow, make l, knit i, narrow, make i, knit 3, make i, narrow, knit I, make I, narrow, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 2, make i, . narrow, knit 4. 27 stitches, nth row — make i, narrow, knit i, narrow, make I, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit I, narrow, make i, narrow, knit i, narrow, make i, narrow, knit I, make i, knit 2, purl i, knit i. 12th row— knit 3, narrow, make i, narrow, knit i, make l, slip i, narrow, pass the shpped one over, make I, knit i, make i, narrow, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 5. 13th row — make i, narrow, knit 4, make i, narrow, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 3, narrow, make i, narrow, knit 3. 14th row — narrow, make 2, knit 3 together, make I, narrow, knit i, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 7. 15th ro^^make 1, narrow, knit 6, make I, narrow, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 2, make j, slip I, narrow, passed the slipped one over, make i, narrow, knit I, purl i, knit I. i6th row — knit 3, narrow, make I, narrow, knit I, narrow, make i, knit 2, narrow, make i, knit 9. 17th row — make I, narrow, knit 8, make I, narrow, knit 2, make I, narrow, knit I, make I, narrow, knit 3. iSth row — narrow, make 2, knit 3 together, make I, narrow, knit 2, narrow, make I, knit II. 19th row make i, narrow, knit 10, make I, narrow, knit 2, make I, narrow, knit I, purl I, knit i. 20th row — knit 3, narrow, make l, knit i, j,_r ^.,l_, , !._:. ^- p , Materials re- quired : — Very fine crochet cotton and fine steel pins. This is a lovely lacy edging, suitable for all fine purposes. L ist on 1 1 stitches. 1 t row— -knit 2, make I (by throwing wool — jst put your cotton a second time round the needle, as you have just purled), knit 2, make I, knit I, make I, knit 3. 16 stitches. 2nd row — knit 3, make 1, knit I, make i, knit i, make i, knit 4, make i, knit i, make i, knit 4, make i, knit 2. 22 stitches. 3rd row — knit 2, make i, knit 6, make i, knit i, make i, knit 6, make i, knit i, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3. 28 stitches. 4th row — knit 3, make 1, purl 5, make i, knit i, now * leave the next stitch upon the left-hand needle, and slip the next 7 stitches over it, then make i, and knit the stitch over which the 7 were slipped and the next i, together ; repeat from * once more, and then knit the last stitch. 16 stitches. 5th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 4, purl 6. 6th row — cast off 5, knit 10. Note. — In casting off you do^not reckon the last stitch, whose loop remains on right-hand needle. No. IV. Cast on 14 stit- ches. 1st — knit 2 thread forward, narrow, knit 5, narrow, thread forward, narrow, knit I. 2nd — thread forward (by taking it over the needle, before beginning the _^ . —^^"^ -^^ row), narrow, thread forward, purl i, thread forward, purl 2 together, purl 4, knit 4. 3rd— knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit 3, narrow, thread forward. knit 3, thread forward, knit 2. 4th— thread forward, naiTOw, thread forward, knit i, thread forward, purl 3 together (making only i stitch, of all 3), thread forward, knit i, thread forward, purl 2 together, purl 2, knit 4. 5th— knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit I, narrow, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, knit i, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, knit 2. 6th— thread forward, narrow, purl I, purl 3 together, thread forward, purl 3, thread forward, purl 3 together, purl i, thread forward, narrow, knit 4. 7th— knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit 2, thread forward, slip i, narrow, pass the slipped one over the narrowed one, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip I, narrow, pass the slipped one over thread forward, knit 2. 8th— thread forward, narrow, purl 2 together, purl i, purl 3 together, narrow, thread forward, purl 3, knit 4. gth— knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit 4, thread forward, slip I, knit 3 together, pass the slipped one over, thread forward, knit 2. loth— thread forward, narrow, purl 2 together, thread forward, purl 5, knit 4- nth— knit 2, thread forward, narrow, knit 6, thread forward, knit i, thread forward, knit 2. 1 2th— thread forward, narrow, purl 2 together, purl 7, knit 4. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, No. V. No. 24 sewing cot- ton and fine steel pins. Cast on 15 stitches. 1st row — knit i, nar- row, make 2, narrow, knit I, make 2, knit 7, make 2, knit 2. 2nd ,■3 row — knit 3, purl i, knit 8, purl i, knit 3, purl I, knit 2. 3rd row — knit i, narrow, make 2, narrow, knit i, make 2, narrow, make 2, narrow, knit 3, narrow, make 2, knit 4. 4th row — knit 5, purl I, knit 6, purl l, knit 2, purl l, knit 3, purl i, knit 2. 5th row — knit i, narrow, make 2, narrow, knit I, make 2, narrow, knit I, narrow, make 2, narrow, knit i, narrow, make 2, knit 6. 6th row — ^knit 7, purl l, knit 4, purl l, knit 4, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 2. 7th row — knit i, narrow, make 2, narrow, knit I, make 2, narrow, knit 3, narrow, make 2, slip I, narrow, pass the slipped I over, make 2, knit S. Sth row — knit 9, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 6, purl I, knit 3, purl J, knit 2. 9th row— knit 1, narrow, make 2, narrow, knit 21. loth row — cast off 10, knit 8, narrow, knit 2, purl I, knit 2. No. VI. Cast on II stit ches. 1st — knit 2 thread forward twice,narrow,knit 5, thread forward, knit 2. 2nd — thread forward, narrow, thread round the needle ("Round the needle " means bring the thread forward and put it over the needle, and in front of it again, like "forward twice"), purl i, thread round, purl 2 together, knit 5, purl I, knit 2. 3rd — knit 7, narrow, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, knit 2. 4th — thread forward, narrow, thread round, purl 5, thread round, purl 2 together, knit 3, narrow, knit i. 5th — knit 2, thread forward twice, narrow twice, thread forward, knit 7, thread forward, knit 2. 6th — thread for^vard, narrow, thread roimd, purl 9, thread round, purl 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 2. 7th — knit 8, leave the next stitch on the left-hand needle, and slip the next 7 stitches over it, thread forward, knit 3. Sth — thread forward, narrow, knit 7, narrow, knit i. No. VII. Cast on II stit- ches. I St — slip I, knit I, thread forward, thread narrow, forward, thread knit 3. narrow, forward, thread narrow, forward, 2nd — knit plain all through. Repeat these 2 rows, only- knitting I more stitch each time between the " slip 1" and "thread forward" in the first row (that is, 2 in the 3rd row, 3 in the 5th and so on), till you have 18 stitches, then knit 3 rows plain instead of i. Then for the next row, knit 7, narrow, thread forward, narrow, thread forward, narrow, thread forward, naiTow, thread forward, narrow, knit I. Nextrow — plain knitting. Next row — knit 6, narrow, thread forward, narrow, thread forward, narrow, thread forward, narrow, thread forward, narrow, knit i. Next row— plain knitting. Next— knit 5, narrow, thread for^vard and narrow 4 times as before, knit I. Next— plain knitting. Next— knit 4, narrow, then thread forward and narrow 4 times, knit i. Next— plain knitting. Next — knit 3, narrow, thread forward and narrow 4 times, knit i. Next— plain knitting. Next— knit 2, narrow, thread forward and narrow 4 times. Next— plain knitting. Next— knit i, thread forward and narrow 4 times. Next— plain knitting. Commence again with ist row. 127 No. VUX. Cast on 9 stitches. 1st — knit 2, make i,knit 3, make i, knit 4. 2nd — knit 4, make 1, knit 5, make l, knit 2. 3rd — knit 2, make i, knit I, make I, narrow, make i, knit 4. 4th — knit 4, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2. 5th — knit 2, make i, knit 1 1, make I, knit 4. 6th — narrow, knit 3, make i, narrow, knit i, narrow, make 1, knit I, make i, narrow, knit i, narrow twice, knit i. 7th — knit 2, make i,knit 3 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, make l, knit 3, narrow. Sth — narrow, knit 3, make i, narrow, knit 3, narrow, make 1, narrow, knit 1. 9th — knit l, narrow, make I, narrow, knit i, narrow, make I, knit 3, narrow. loth — narrow, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, make i, narrow, knit i. nth — knit 4, 1 2th — narrow, knit 3, make i, knit I, ^, , - _, together, make i, knit 3, narrow, make i, narrow, knit i. No. IX. Cast on 17 stitches. 1st — knit 4, make i, knit I I, narrow, • make i, knit l, ^/ narrow, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 4. 2nd — knit 4, make i, knit 5, make i, narrow, knit I, make i, narrow, knit i, 2, make i, narrov 5th — knit 2, make. I, narrow, knit I Cast on 7 stitches. I St — knit 2, make i, narrow, make 2, knit 3. 2nd— knit 4, purl 1, knit i, make l, narrow, - - - knit I. 3rd— knit narrow, knit 5. 4th— knit 6, make i, narrow, knit i. I, narrow, knit 5. 6th— cast on 2, kmt 3, make No. XI. Cast on 6 Stitches. 1st — make i, purl 2 to- gether,knit3,then •.( knit 2 into the last :j stitch by knitting back of the stitch. 2nd— knit 5, make i, purl 2 together, jrd —make i, purl 2 together, knit i, make 2, nan-ow, make 2, narrow. 4th-knit 2, purl I, knit 2. purl I, knit i, make i. purl 2 together. Sth— make l, purl 2 tc^ether, knit 7- 6th— Cast ott 3, knit 3, make I, purl 2 tosrether. Jth — make l, purl I, purl 2 together. THEj FANCY WOEK-BASKET. No. xir. Cast on 5 stit- ches. 1st — knit 3, make i, knit 2. 2nd — knit2,make I, purl I, make I, purl I, make T, narrow. 3rd— knit 3, make I, knit 3, make i, knit 2. 4th — knit 2, make i, purl 5, make i, purl I, make i, narrow. 5th' — knit 3, make i, narrow, knit 3, narrow, make i, knit 2. 6th — knit 3, make i, purl 2 together, purl i, purl 2 together, make i, fpurl 2, make i, narrow. 7th — knit 5, make i, slip 1, narrow,* pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 4. Sth— cast off 7 stitches, knit 2, make I, narrow. No. XIII. ij(j^B!»rfiSW»^<«-«T3^^*i3rsi;T!w»«rtf.-^ (5<^ > Materials required : — Any suitable wool, if for shawls, antimacassars, iS:c., and fine bone or wooden pins. If for quilts, toilets, &c.,cotton and coarse steel pins. Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — knit 4, * make i (by throwing the wool over needle), take 2 together, repeat from * three times more. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — knit 5 (by knitting both the back and front of the ist stitch), * make i, take 2 together, repeat from * 3 times. 5th row — plain. 6th row — knit 6, make i, and take 2 together 4 times as before. 7th row — plain. Sth row — knit 7, make i and take 2 together 4 times. 9th row- plain, loth row — knit 8, make i and take 2 together 4 times. iith row — plain. 12th row — knit 9, make i and take 2 together 4 times. 13th row — plain. 14th row — knit 10, make i and take 2 together 4 times. 1 5th row — plain. i6th row — knit 1 1, make i and take 2 together 4 times. Cast off 9 stitches, knit the rest plain, making i at the end of row, so that you may have your 12 stitches again, and repeat from the 2nd row. ►:!• c^ecpET -> WOOLLEN COUVRETTE FOR BED. Materials required : — 3 lbs of best quality crimson petticoat wool, or fleecy, or double Berlin wool, and a medium-sized crochet hook. This useful and handsome couvrette is worked in squares which are commenced in the centre, and when finished they are sewed toge- ther. There are 42 squares required for the couvrette, to which a border is added. Make 4 chain and unite into a ring by working a single stitch into ist of the 4 chain stitches, ist round — work 3 double stitches into each stitch (for the 4 corners), unite the round with a single stitch. 2nd round — * 3 double into the centre of the 128 3 double of last round, work i double in each of the next 2 stitches of last round, and repeat from * 3 times more, end round with i single stitch into the first of the first 3 double of last round. 3rd round — * 3 double into centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, repeat from * 3 times more, and end round with a single stitch on first of the first 3 double of last round. 4th round — * 3 double in centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double in each of the next 6 stitches, repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round. 5th round — * 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, I double into each of the next 3 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain 1 double into each of the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round. 6th round— 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 10 stitches of last round. Repeat from * 3 times more, end row with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round. 7th round — 3 double into centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 4 stitches of last round, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 4 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round. Sth round — * 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 14 stitches of last round. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round. 9th round — * 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, I double into each of the next 5 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 5 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round. loth round — * 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 18 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round, nth round — 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, I double into each of the next 6 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, I double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 6 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round. 1 2th round — 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 22 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch into first of the first 3 double of last round. 13th round — 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 7 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, I double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the ne-xt 7 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch on the first of the first 3 double of last round. 14th round — * 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 26 stitches. Repeat from * three times more. 15th round — * 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last"round, i double into each of the next 8 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, I double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 2 stitches, 6 chain, i double into each of the next 8 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch on the first of the first 3 double. i6th round * 3 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double of last round, i double into each of the next 30 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, end round with a single stitch on the first of the first 3 double of last round. This round finishes a square. "When the 42 squares are worked and sewn together, put- ting them exactly side by side till there are 7 squares for the length of the couvrette and 6 squares for the width, begin the border. For the Border. * Make 4 chain, throw wool round the needle and draw it through 3rd of the 4 chain stitches, counting from the needle, wool round the needle again, and draw it thi-ough the ist of the 4 chain stitches then draw wool through all the loops (5) on the needle, and work a chain, which completes the clump ; miss 2 stitches of the couvrette, and work a single stitch into the next stitch. Repeat from * all THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. round the couvrette, but at the corners only miss i stitch instead of 2, to keep the work flat. 2nd round— same as first round, but working the single stitch into the top of the clump of last round, instead of on the square of couvrette. Work lo rounds more, the same as second round, increasing a clump at the corners as required to keep the work quite flat. To increase a clump, work a second clump, and work the single stitch into the same place as the single stitch of the last worked clump was worked. THE CREEVE WRAP. This shawl is not only very handsome, but invaluable as a warm wrap, particularly suited for an elderly lady, combining lightness with durability. Materials required for a shawl two yards square : — 31 skeins of very best 4 ply fingering, or Berlin wool, a good claret or any colour preferred. For elegance, white Berlin wool is recommended. A rather large sized crochet hook (bone), and 2 bone knitting needles No. 8 are required. The centre is crocheted, and the border knitted. For the crochet centre, make a chain to measure 1 3 yards long, and work on it as follows : — Work a treble into ist stitch from needle, 3 chain, wool round needle, insert it in 2nd chain stitch from where you are working, and draw wool through, this gives 3 loops on needle, wool round needle again, and draw it through the same loop, as the treble was worked into, miss I chain (on the foundation chain), wool round the needle, and draw through next chain loop, draw the wool then through the 7 loops on the needle, draw wool through loop on the needle, which makes a " ring," * wool round needle, insert in centre of ring, draw wool through, wool round needle, and draw through the same loop on the foundation chain as the wool was drawn through in last stitch, wool round needle, miss I chain on foundation, and draw through next chain, draw wool through the 7 loops now on the needle, draw wool through the loop on needle, forming a "ring;" repeat from * to end of the chain row ; wool round needle, and draw through ring, wool round needle, draw through the same loop on foundation (which is [last 129 stitch on the foundation chain) as the wool was drawn through in last stitch, draw wool through the 5 loops on needle ** 3 chain, turn, wool round the needle, draw through the second of these 3 chain, wool round needle, draw wool through centre of next ring of last row ; wool round needle, draw through ccntie of next ring of last row ; draw wool through the 7 loops on needle, draw the wool through loop on needle, so forming "ring," wool round needle, draw through centre of ring just made, * wool round needle, draw through centre of same ring on last row as last stitch was drawn through, wool round needle, draw through next ring of last row, draw through 7 loops on the needle, draw through loop on the needle, repeat from * to end of the row, drawing 7th loop of last stitch through the chain loop at end ; wool round needle, draw through " ring," the wool round needle, draw through same chain loop at end as last loop of last stitch was drawn through, wool through 5 loops on the needle ; repeat from ** till the work is a square. Then for the border, or edge, knit thus : — Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row — knit 6, make a stitch (by throwing wool over the needle), knit 2 together, make 2 stitches (by putting wool twice round the needle), knit 2 together, knit 12, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together. 2nd row — knit 2, purl i (the 2nd loop of the 2 made stitches of last row), knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 14, purl I, knit 2, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4. 3rd row — knit 6, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 24. 4th row — knit 26, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4. 5th row — knit 6, make a stitch, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 14, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together. 6th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 16, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4. 7th row — knit 6, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 29. 8th row — knit 31, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4. 9th row — knit 6, make a stitch, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 17, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together. loth row — knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 19, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4. nth row — knit 6, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 35. 12th row — knit 37, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4. 13th row — knit 6, make a stitch, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, * make 2 stitches, knit 3 together, thus (slip a stitch, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together), repeat from * 10 times more. 14th row — * knit 2, purl i, repeat from * 11 times more, knit 2, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4. 15th row — knit 6, make a stitch, knit 2 together," knit 36. 16th row — knit 38, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4. 17th row — knit 6, make a stitch, knit 2 together, * make 2 stitches, knit 3 together, as before ; repeat from * II times more. iSth row — same as 14th row. 19th row — same as 15th row. 20th row — same as i6th row. 21st row — same as 17th row. 22nd row — same as 14th row. 23rd row — same as 15th row. 24th row — cast off 16 stitches, taking care not to pull the wool too tightly. Knit 22, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 4; repeat from ist row of the edge. Sew all round the shawl, being careful to keep it square, and allow-ing 3 patterns to turn each corner, so that the border or edge may be flat. About 80 patterns of the edge will be required, but if worked by a tight knitter, it may take more. LACE PANELS FOR DRESSES. The illustration shows a section of a crochet lace panel. These lace panels are a very new and effective style of dress trimming Ladies wishing to have a charming dress for the summer, will be well repaid for the trouble of making them, though they are very pleasant work. They should be crocheted for linen dresses in the natural colour of the linen with a contrasting colour underneath, or if preferred, they may be made in fawn, pink, cream,terra-cotta, orange, navy or china blue, bright green or dull green, or any other colour. Beautiful thread is to be had for the purpose from Messrs. Wm. Barbour & Sons, Hilden, Lisburn, Ireland. Satin polished Macrame Lace Thread is what it is called; number 2 is the most suitable size. This thread can be had in a verj' great variety of shades and colours. The pattern given in the illustration is a very simple one. The following are the directions. — The crochet in this pattern must all be done on the right side, therefore the thread should be neatly fastened off" at the beginning and end of each row. ist row — chain of the required length 2nd row — ** 2 treble * 14 chain, miss 14, 2 treble, repeat from * to the end of the row. 3rd row — i treble, i chain, miss l, * 2 treble, 10 chain, miss 10, 2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, repeat from * to the end of the row. 4th row — * 2 treble. 2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble, 6 chain, miss 6, 2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, repeat from * to the end of the row. 5th row— i treble, i chain, miss I, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. * 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3, repeat from * to the end of the row. 6th row — * 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3, i treble, 6 chain, miss 5, 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3, repeat from* to the end of the row. 7th row-^i treble, i chain, miss i, * 3 treble, lo chain, miss 10, 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3, repeat from * to the end of the row. Repeat from * * as often as required. To decrease the width of the pattern omit stitches at the beginning or end of the row. To increase the width add chain stitches to the beginning or end and work the pattern on them in the next row. To make the required shape cut out a paper pattern of a waistcoat or panel and crochet a chain for the ist row, the width of either end of the paper ; go on with the pattern, increasing or de- creasing the width according to the shape required. LADIES' PETTICOAT, IN FANCY TRICOT. "•TTJi jjB Materials : — About 7 skeins of white and 3 skeins of scarlet petticoat fleecy wool, long tricot hook, about No. 4. If you work loosely use No. 5, if tightly No 3. No. 4, as recommended above, is for a medium worker. Front Breadth. Make a loose chain of go stitches in the white wool. 1st row — put the hook in the 1st chain, * pull the wool through, and draw it out till you have a loop about \ an inch long, keep it on the hook, put the hook in the next chain, and re- peat from * to the end of the row, that is, till all the chain are taken up. This completes the first half of the row. snd half of ist row — draw the wool through i loop, * then through 2 loops, and repeat from * till all the loops are worked off. 2nd row — please remember that in ordinary tricot you take up each one of the perpendicular (that is straight down) loops, but in this case you make a difference, by taking up the top of the chain which lies underneath the front perpendicular loops. You have i loop left on your hook from last row, * put the hook into i/ic top of the 1st chain lying underneath and between the perpendicular loops, draw the wool through till you have a loop \ an inch long, put the hook into i/ie top of the next chain, and repeat from* to the end of the row. Now take off the stitches as in ordinary tricot, as described in the " 2nd half of the Ist row " above. 3rd row — take up your first loop as before, but now increase by managing to put 3 loops in the snd chain, and also in the last stitch but one of the row. Do the 3nd half of the row as usual. 4th row — without increasing, just the long loops drawn through the top chain, and taken off in the usual way, like the snd row. 5th row — increase as in the third row, by putting on extra loop in the 2nd 130 stitch from the beginning, and the last but one at the end of the row. Repeat these two rows, the 3nd and 3rd — that is, a row without increase and then a row with increase, and then again without increase, and so on, till you have done 48 rows, and then break off the wool and do the Back Breadth. You work one side of the placket hole first and then the other. Make a chain of 60 stitches, and work 13 rows. (By a row we mean the ist and snd half of a row, that is, taking up the loops and taking them off again.) At the end of the isth row break off the wool, and do the other side of the placket hole in the same way as follows : — snd side of placket hole — make a chain cjf 60 stitches as before, and work is rows. Do not break off the wool. 13th row — you now do your work across each piece of work, so as to make the full width of the back breadth. Take up the 60 loops across one piece of the work, and then the loops across the second piece of work, beginning with the 4th loop. (The 3 loops you miss, form an overlap at the placket hole.) You will have 117 stitches on your needle ; work back and forth plainly without increase or decrease on the 117 stitches, till you have done, in all, 48 rows, making it the same length as the front. In counting and measuring, you reckon in the is rows you did to make the placket hole. Now sew your petticoat up at the sides, joining the widths very evenly. Now will you please pay great attention to the next directions, or we shall confuse you. Hold the petticoat with the top, or the waist as you may call it, next to you. ist row — tie the scarlet wool securely to the side of the placket, which is to your left as you hold the work. Now count thirty -six (36) stitches of the ist row, counting from the edge of the placket hole towards the right. Rpn your hook iiwids the perpendicular Zooys, beginning at the right hand with the 36th, and bringing your hook out at the edge of the placket hole. Now draw the scarlet wool through 3 loops, * fasten them by a tight chain, pull out a loose chain about ^ an inch long, then draw the loop on your needle through the next 3 loops, and repeat from * till your loops on the needle are used up. *** Now take your hook out of the loop on your needle, count 36 stitches towards the right, beginning from where you took the loop off your needle. Now slip your needle inside tlie perpendicular loops, beginning at the right hand with the 36th, and bringing out the hook at the place where you left off working, and dropped the loop off your needle. Now pick up the loop on to your hook, draw it through the next 3 loops, * fasten by a tight chain, make a loose long chain, then draw through the next 3 loops. Repeat from * until you have worked off the 36 stitches. Then repeat from *"** to the end of your row. Then break off the wool, snd row — tie the scarlet wool to the end of the 3n4 row of your work, just as you did for the ist row. Take up 36 stitches from right to left, bringing it out at the left hand at the edge of the placket hole, draw through 3 loops, * fasten with a tight chain, then pull out a long loose chain, draw through the next 3 loops, and repeat from * till you have worked off the thirty-six (36) stitches. Now repeat from *** to *** in the ist row to the end of the row. Repeat the snd row till you have done the 12 rows it took to make the placket hole, and then you begin to work in rounds. In doing the rounds it is better to begin at one of the seams, and every time you finish a round, and break off the wool, draw the s ends of scarlet wool to the wrong side of the petticoat, and tie them firmly. Work on round after round until you have worked 36 rounds, counting the 12 rows as rounds which it took for the placket hole. You now make the fancy border. 37th round — fasten on your scarlet wool and begin as usual, and draw though the first 3 loops, * fasten with a tight chain, make 5 chain instead of the i loose chain you made in previous rows, draw the loop on the needle through the next 3 loops, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 38th to 4Sth rounds — like the 37th. This finishes the crochet part of the petti- coat, unless the placket hole requires a row of double crocliet. Sew the petticoat into a flat band, or as you like it and find it fit you best. The woven bands which are made now are very good, and you just sew the petticoat between the lower edges of the woven band. If carefully followed stitch by stitch, these directions will be found easy to follow, and give a very pretty result. Just Published, Volume I. Price Is. 6d. TSE NOVEL JRE.A.r)BJEl (416 pages, uniform size of 23. Novels.) Containing 13 original and Complete Novels by favourite contributors to our best Magazines, and contains three times tlte reading of any 2b. novel. Vide Press Opinions ; "Its character is equal to three- volume novels." " It forms a charming series lu a neat form." Each number contains a complete and highly interesting library no7el. Three numbers contain more than any 2s. novel. Order of any Bookstalls, or sent post-free for 21 stamps. B. Cartwright, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London THE FANCY WORK-BASKET CHILD'S SUMMER PETTICOAT, LOW NECKED. nmw 7/;-, :.■■?;•!.»: s; 'vS /;;.-/:;j:S>-;:iJ- iB Materials: — Scarlet and white petticoat yarn, about 4 skeins scarlet, and 2 of white, and a long tricot hook No. 6. Begin with the scarlet, and make a chain of 52. 1st row — draw a loop about half an inch or so long through each chain in succession, keeping them all on the hook as in usual tricot, then draw through i loop and then through 2 till all are worked off. 2nd row — take the white wool, fasten it on, and take up the 1st loop of the chain lying along the top of the 1st row, underneath the perpendicular (straight down) loops,* draw the wool through, making a loop the same length as those fff'rJ'i?!*^-- '^■-■^^ ''^ ''^^ previous row, put the hook in the ii'ii :»=■■ ?• il'' -"' 3« top loop of the next chain, and repeat from * to the end of the row. Take the back half of row as is usual in tricot, that is, draw the wool through I loop, * then through 2, and repeat from * to the end of the row. Do not break off the white wool. 3rd row — Take the scarlet, and work as described above till you have taken up 36 out of the 52, work back as usual, leaving the remaining 16 stitches unworked. 4th row — Take up all the stitches (always working in the top loop of the chain as directed in the second row), the 36 you worked in the last row, and the 16 you left unworked ; work back in the usual way. 5th row — take the white wool and work a row, taking up every loop, and drawing them out the same length as in the previous rows. Work back the same way. 6th row — take the scarlet, and repeat the 3rd row. 7th row — like the 4th. 8th row — just like the 5th. Repeat the 3rd, 4th and 5th rows, till your petticoat is wide enough, about 36 or 27 inches at the top and 40 round the bottom is a good width. It will do no harm if it is a little wider; judge by the shape of the child it is for. For the Bodice. This is a low bodice, and there are elastic straps, so you do not need many stitches. Make a chain of about 24 to 2S stitches, just according to the depth of bodice you wish. Make the chain on the scarlet wool, ist row — take up the loops just as you did for the petticoat part, work back as usual. 2nd row — take the white wool and work a row with white. 3rd row and 4th row — work straight as usual with the scarlet wool. 5th row — work as usual with the white. Go on in this way doing 2 rows of scarlet and i row of white till you have done a piece of work as long as you wish the waist to be wide. Now take up the stitches along the bottom of the waist, and do three firm close rows of ordinary tricot. By ordi- nary tricot we mean taking up the perpendicular front loops instead of the top of the chain, as in the rest of the petticoat. The close tricot will make a firm band for the waist. Sew the skirt of the petticoat up, leaving a placket hole, then sew the bodice and petti- coat together. Then crochet a pretty and firm scallop round the bottom of the petticoat, along the top of the bodice, down each back, and round the edge of placket hole. Finish by good broad elastic shoulder straps. If you wish to make it warmer for winter make 2 shoulder pieces 2 inches or more wide, and long enough to go comfortably across the child's shoulder and reach the bodice, sew them in place, measuring on the child where the best place is ; then either crochet round the neck a good deep border and run a string in it, or take up the stitches and knit an inch or two in ribs of 2 plain, 2 purl, all the way round. Treat the sleeves the same, add buttons or strings. The petticoat is more quickly made and very pretty if crocheted all in one colour, scarlet, white, blue, or crimson will do ; scarlet and white wash well, and a mix- ture of black and yellow would look very pretty for a house skirt under a little polonaise. In the latter case you could have a calico bodice, as black wool is not considered a nice wool to have near the neck and shoulders of children. Another variety for a skirt : work the skirt as above directed, but long enough for a dress, and use brown, crimson, black, scarlet or white wool, and make it all of one colour. Then, when the crochet is done, run down each row, in and out of the long loops, very narrow ribbon about \ or Jth of an inch in width. Choose ribbon of an harmonising or contrast- ing colour, pink or pale blue through crimson, amber through black, black through scarlet, pale blue through dark blue, pink (pale) through blue. This is rather a French combination, and sometimes looks very pretty. The polonaise could be made of cashmere, veiling, beige, or any soft goods the colour of the skirt or the ribbon, if not too light. 131 JACKET FOR INFANT In C.anadi.an Fan Stitch, with 2 Colours. The fan stitch is worked thus : throw wool over needle as in treble, draw wool through as in treble, but drawing the loop up to length of 4 chain, finish off the stitch as in treble. Materials re- required : — 2 skein s o f best quality cream - white Shetland wool and one skein pale blue, a rather coarse bone crochet hook. Work 6 stitches in each fan. Make a chain of 81 stitches worked with double wool, blue and white together, as also next 2 rows. Ist row — i treble in 4th stitch of the chain counting from the needle, * i chain, miss i on the foundation chain, i treble in next chain, repeat from *. 2nd row — same as ist row, working the treble stitches over the i chain, turn. 3rd row — with single wool (white), 4 chain, which makes i stitch of the ist fan of 6, finish fan into 1st loop, * miss 2 treble of last row, i double into next loop, a fan into next loop, repeat from * 3 times more, * i double in next loop, fan in next loop, repeat from "- 4 times more, * miss 2 trebles of last row i double into next loop, fan into next loop, repeat from * 4 times more, i double in next loop, which is last loop of last row, turn. 4th row — 4 chain (for ist stitch of fan), finish the half fan, which work on top of the last double of last row, * I double in centre of next fan of last row, fan on next double of last row repeat fi-om * twice more. Increase a fan thus — work a double between the 1st and 2nd stitches of next fan, then a fan between 3rd and 4th stitches of same fan, and a double between 5th and 6th stitches of same fan, work 4 fans, increase, work 4 fans, increase, 3 fans, i double in centre of next or part fan of last row, work a half fan. 5th row — work fans all across row, working the 1st fan into the last double of last row, and the last double between the 1st and 2nd stitches of the half fan at beginning of last row. 6th row — 4 chain, finish half fan on top of last double of last row, fans all across the row, finishing with half fan into last loop of row. 7th row — work fan into the last double of the last row, work 3 more fans, increase a fan, work 5 fans, increase a fan, work 5 fans, increase a fan, work 4 fans, i double between the ist and 2nd stitches of the half fan at beginning of last row. 8th row — same as 6th row. 9th row — work fan into last double of last row, and continue working fans all across, v.orking last double between the ist and 2nd stitches of the half fan at the beginning of last row. loth row — same as 7th row, but beginning and ending row with a half fan, and allowing an additional fan betsveen the increases. The increases should alwaj-s come on the fans in a straight line down from the former increase. 1 1 th row — same as 5th row. 1 2th row — same as 6th row. 13th row — same as 7throw, allowing for additional fans between the increasing fans. 14th row — work a half fan, and 2 fans with a double between ist and 2nd stitches of next fan, work a fan through centre of this double and the double beyond the next 6 fans (leaving 6 fans for sleeve), i double in centre of next fan, work S fans, a double between ist and 2nd stitches of next fan, work a fan through centre of this with the double beyond the next 6 fans (leaving 6 fans for sleeve), i double in centre of next fan, work 2 fans, and finish the row with a half fan, as usual. 15th row — work fans all across row. l6th row — work fans all across, increasing in centre of the back (only). 17th row — work fans all across the row, break off the white wool and join on the blue at the left-hand side of neck, and work a row oifaiK all round to other side of neck ; break off and join on the white wool again, and work a row of fans round same as the blue, break off white, and join on blue, and work a row of Inrge fans (9 stitches in each fan), finish with row of white wool, i treble, i chain, between each stitch of fans : last row with blue wool, i double, I chain into each i chain of last row. For the collar — THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. join on the white wool, and work across the neck, i treble into loop between the trebles of istrow, *i chain, treble into the next loop, repeat from * across the row, turn. 2nd row — 2 trebles into first loop, I chain, * 2 treble into next loop, i chain, 2 treble in same loop, i chain, miss next loop, repeat from * all across ; turn, 3 chain, 2 treble between the 4 treble of last row, * i chain, 2 treble in same loop, i chain, 2 treble between the next 4 treble 0/ last row ; repeat from * twice more; i cham, 2 treble in same loop, break off ; join at beginning of last row, and work 3 patterns same as last, break off; join again at beginning, and work 2 patterns, break ofif wool, work a piece to correspond at other side of neck. For collar at back — join on white wool at 7th pattern of ist row of the collar, work 7 patterns, break off the wool and then join on 2nd pattern of last row, and work 5 patterns, break off the wool and join at the 2nd pattern of last row, and work 3 patterns, break off, join on coloured wool, 4 chain, ist row of collar,* 3 chain, i double in next loop, repeat from * till you have worked to the corner, ** 1 single or slipstitch, with the chain between, into centre of pattern, * 4 chain, i double into i chain between patterns of the previous row, repeat from *, working single instead of double, 4 times more ; 4 chain, work up in same way 4 chain, repeat from **, allowing for the decrease and increase of depth of collar. Turn down collar; with blue and white wool together work into the ist row of collar, and the chain row at beginning, 1 treble, * I chain, treble in loop, repeat from * all along the neck. Make cord i yard long with 2 ply of the white and 2 ply of the blue wool, crocheted into a chain, finish with tassels, made same as the wool balls for the baby's boots at page 124. For sleeves — join on the white wool, and continue the fan patterns, ro^md and rmmd for 8 fans, and finish to correspond with edge of the jacket. Pom- padour wool or knitting silk, instead of the blue Shetland wool, makes a very dainty jacket, but perhaps not so useful if it is to be washed. BABY'S SHETLAND JACKET. Materials re- quired: — 2 ozs. of best white Shetland wool, 2 yards of white ribbon about an inch wide, or rather nar- rower, bone hook No. 9. Commence by making a chain ofii6,andwork 1 56 holes along .of I chain, i f treble ; this row ' is for the waist, to run the rib- bonin. 2ndrow — mak€ 4 chain to turn, and work 2 treble in each hole without any chain between. 3rd row — 4 chain and turn, work 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, in every hole. 4th row — same as 3rd. 5th row — same. 6th row — same. 7th row — work in same way for 7 times, that is, in 7 holes, backwards and forwards for 5 rows, this is one front; break off the wool and work the other end in same way for the other front ; break off the wool and work the remaining 14 patterns in just the same way for 5 rows, then fasten on wool at the edge of one front and work in same way for 6 times, then take the one pattern left, and join the front and back together by making 1 treble into the 2 ; this begins to form the shoulder; work straight along in the same way and do the other back and front together for the shoulder ; work in just the same way for 3 rows, this brings it to the right size for neck; then fasten on the wool at waist, and work 2 treble in every hole of the foundation chain, and then 5 rows of 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble all along; do these backwards and forwards. Border: work 3 chain double crocheted into i hole, * 3 chain and draw up 8 long loops on the hook, and unite by i chain ; this makes a knot or bunch, then 3 chain, i double crochet into same hole as the knob, then 3 chain, i double crochet into next hole, and repeat from* all round the jacket. 2nd row — to form the scallop, 3 chain, i treble into the centre of the knob, 5 chain and unite to the ist chain, thereby forming a picot ; do this for 7 times into the centre of knob, which forms a very pretty and effective scallop ; then 3 chain, i double crochet into same place as last row, 3 chain, i treble into centre of knob, and work as before all round, then run the ribbon into every other hole at the waist, and a piece at neck. For the sleeves, work 16 sets of 2 treble all round armhole, no chain between, 132 then unite by a slip-stitch ; work 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble into every other hole that is, pass over i set of 2 treble. Work in this way 8 times round, and for 8 rows, then take 2 together at the end of the 9th row, and work for 8 more rows, making 16 altogether; then work an edge to match the border round the jacket, only on the wrong side, so that it turns over to form a cuff, or run a piece of ribbon in to tie at wrist, in that case half a yard more ribbon would be required. SHETLAND HOOD AND CAPE IN ONE, For a Baby. Materials required : — 2 ozs. best white Shetland wool, and i oz. of pale blue, 3^ yards of white or blue ribbon to match the wool, bone hook No. 8. Commence at neck in white by making a chain of 85, on this work alternately 3 treble stitches, and I chain for 23 times. 2nd row — work in the same way by making 4 chain to turn, and work 3 treble 2 chain for 1 1 times, and in the 12th hole make a set, that is 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble ; then finish the row same as the other 1 1 patterns. Do this for 23 rows, increasing in every other row by making 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble, in one hole, either each side, centre, or here, there, and everywhere, but never twice in the same place, and not more than twice in the same row. This increasing brings it to a coat shape. Then break off wool and fasten on the blue .at side of neck, and work a border of alter- nate rows in blue and white in the same way, increasing at each corner by working a double set of 3 treble, 4 chain, 3 treble ; work 8 rows all round the cape, that is to say, both sides and the bottom, then for the edge work g treble in i hole, I double crochet in next hole, continue this all round the cape and fasten off. For the hood begin at the neck in white wool, and work in same way in each hole of the white, that is 3 treble 2 chain for 23 times ; do this for 16 rows, decreasing each row by leaving the 3 treble stitches unworked, thus bringing it when finished to a point at the top. You must increase in centre once by a double set of 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble in the 9th row up ; this is to make it more shapely. Break off the wool and fasten it on in same place as for the hood. To begin the curtain, work 3 treble, 2 chain for 23 times and increase in thecentrehole by a double set, to make the curtain come in a point at the back ; do this for 3 rows ; then fasten on the blue wool, and work a row all round like the border of cape, doing hood and curtain same time ; increase at each corner of curtain and point of both by working a double set of 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble. Work 1st row in blue, 2nd white, 3rd blue, 4th white, then blue for the scalloped edge to match the cape. Then run the ribbon all round the neck, leaving sufficient for the strings at each end. Make up a smallbow and ends to stitch on at the back of the curtain, then run a piece of ribbon round the hood and tie at the top in a long bow and ends, and fasten securely with needle and cotton each side of face. This is a very pretty and useful present for a baby, and suitable for taking it from one room to the other, or in the garden. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. JACKET FOR INFANT SIX MONTHS OLD. Materials re- quired : — 3§ ozs. of white Berlin wool and 3 yards of white satin ribbon. Front — Make a chain of 57 stitches, miss 3 of the chain, and work treble stit- ches in every chain to the end. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, work I treble stitch in every stitch of last row to the end of the row, taking up the back strand only, to form a ridge. 3rd to 1 2th rows — like the 2nd. This forms one front. Fasten off. Makeasecond piece the same for the ) second side of the front. For the back — Commence the same as for the front, and continue the treble stitch for 2i rows. Fasten off. Now join the fronts to the back from the bottom to the end of the 35th stitch, and joih the shoulders for 6 rows. This leaves 20 stitches on the front and the same on the back for the armhole. For the sleeve — Commence just below the middle of the fronthalf of the armhole to work treble stitches all round; there should be 40 stitches in the row. Do not join, but crochet backwards and forwards, always turning with 3 chain stitches at the beginning of each row. At the 5th row you commence to decrease the number of stitches by missing the last stitch but one in every row till you come to the end of the 14th row-. In the 15th, i6th and 17th rows miss the centre stitch as well as the end one. Crochet 4 more rows of treble without decreasing. Fasten off. When both sleeves are made sew them up. For the border all round the jacket crochet i double, 2 treble, i double into the side of each treble stitch along the top and bottom of the jacket, and into every third stitch down the fronts and round the sleeve. Turn the corners by making 5 treble instead of 2. Turn up the last four rows of the sleeves to form cuffs. Divide the ribbon into three parts, and run one round the neck, and another round the waist of the jacket. Cut the third piece into two, and run half into each sleeve, tying the ends into a bow on the outside. This is a most comfortable and useful jacket, and the pattern is so simple that the most inexperienced worker will find it easy to make. STAYS FOR itTO 2 YEARS. Materials required:— 2 ounces best Scotch fingering wool, bone hook, No. 10, steel hook. No. i, 3 yards of scarlet braid an inch wide, 4 bone buttons, i reel of coarse ingrain cotton. Make a chain of 31. Turn, put i double into 2nd from needle, i double into every chain to end of row. 2nd row — turn with i chain,- double into every double, taking up back strand of stitch only. Work backwards and forwards in this way for 28 rows or 14 ribs, always taking the back stitch. Then turn and pass over 3 stitches to decrease for armhole, and finish row ; coming back leave 3 stitches unworked. Then work the ne5ct row in same way, by missing 3 to turn and leaving 3 unworked at end. The next row— the same. Then work all the stitches for 6 rows or 3 ribs. Then increase the next row by making 2 stitches in each of 133 the last 3 ; make a chain of 4 to increase the next row and work back to the end of row ; do this until you have 30 stitches again, which completes the armhole. Then work these 30 stitches again backwards and forwards for 36 rows or 18 ribs for front. Then decrease and increase for the armhole to match the first, until there are 30 stitches again, then work these for 30 rows or 15 ribs for the button side. Bind the armholes by stitching the braid on the right side and felling or hemming it on the «Tong side, so forming a rolled binding, and being neat on the right side. Then bind in same way all round the stays, leaving 6} inches for the shoulder straps. Sew on 4 buttons a little way in, and work 4 loops the other side thus — take the steel hook and insert into edge of the braid opposite button, and make 6 chain, fasten into braid about half-an-inch off, and work 13 double crochet into it, taking care to finish off securely by drawing ends of wool through the wrong side of braid. Do this 3 times more, when the stays will be complete. These are particularly strong and warm, and a great preventive of colds, and can either be made a larger or smaller size by increasing or decreasing number of chain to commence with, and making more or less ribs. They can be lined with unbleached calico if preferred. JAM POT COVER. Materials required : — i ball of white crochet cotton, I ball of pink, or any colour preferred, No. 8, and steel hook No. 3. Begin with white cotton, and make a chain ofSS and unite. Work all the stitches in double for 2 rows, then on the coloured (say pink), and treble, 2 chain. crochet fasten cotton work I I treble into ist double then pass over i double crochet stitch, and repeat i treble, 2 chain, i treble, this forms a hole ; do in the same way all round for 2 rows ; there should then be 37 holes. Fasten off. This is for the top of the pot. Now begin with white cotton the other side of the foundation chain, and work in same way as the 2 pink rows, only make 44 holes instead of ^,7, then work 2 long treble — -that is, put the cotton over hook 3 times, and draw through 2 loops at a time — then do i chain, 3 long treble again into the same hole, and repeat in every hole for 2 rows ; then fasten on pink cotton, and work 3 rows in same way, then 2 more rows in white, and I row of i treble, 2 chain, I treble in every hole, and I row of double crochet ; this end must be a good bit larger than the other — to be drawn up round the bottom of the pot by cord and tassels of the pink cotton, which is made as' follows : — Double the cotton and wind it 20 times round two fingers, then cut and tie in centre with the double cotton, and make a chain long enough to draw up round the pot. Make a second tassel in same way, and a short piece of chain ; run in and fasten together, and tie round the bottom firmly. This makes an ordinary jam pot look very nice on the table. It is as well, when making it, to try the cover over an old pot, as they vary in size. F AMILY Mrs. LEACH'S PRACTICAL DRESSMAKER, Monthly. Price Twopence. Containing Illustrations, with plain descriptions for Cutting Out and Making Up all the New Costumes, Dolmans, Jackets, Ulsters, &c. With quantity of material required. Hints on Cookery, and useful information; &c. May be had at all Newsvendors and Booksellers. Also See IVrrs. LE.A.CH"S /CHILDREN and YOUNG LADIES' DRESSMAKER, One Penny Monthly. How 10 Cut Out and Make all the New Fashions for Children and Young Ladies of all ages. All Newsagents : or the two books, post free, four stamps. Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. TRACING WHEELS. No. 1, suitable for Tracing every description of Fancy Work, iS stamps, post free Mrs- Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. "REMNANTS OF THE RAG-BAG." Every woman who has much to do with making or mending'is sure to accumulate in time a number of pieces in some out-of- the-way cupboard, or more often the " rag-bag." There are so many scraps that we feel we cannot throw away, because we say to ourselves, " I will put it in the rag-bag ; it is sure to come in for mending some day," and we keep them out of a feeling that nothing ought to be wasted. In the days of our grandmothers the pieces of cotton were generally used for patchwork, and were sewn together to make counterpanes for either the poor, servants' beds, or cradle quilts. But patchwork of the kind then made is now a thmg of the past. Small pieces of silk,|plush„velvet, &c., are frequently used for sofa cushions, and if carefully put together, and each piece outlined with braid or chain-stitch, have a charming effect, and — a hint to those ladies who work for bazaars or profit — generally fetch a good price. A pretty way of using scraps of cotton material is to utilise them for trimming bed furniture, toilet covers, &c. Figured white dimity is cheap, and always washes well, but the striped very seldom, unless you pay a high price. Sort out your pieces according to colour or pattern. Cut them into strips three inches long and one and a-half wide. Turn them down neatly all round, and lay these in diagonal stripes all down the edge of your curtain or toilet cover. You can also cut your pieces into small squares, and put on in diamonds. Indeed, an ingenious mind can devise many modes of utilising the contents of the rag-bag, after trying the effect. Tur- key twill makes a charming trimming upon white dimity, and washes to the last. It can be either put on in a stripe all round, or cut into dia- monds. By so trimming the white furniture, you can keep it up much longer. The Turkey twill can also be cut into Vandykes with the raw edge laid under a selvedge of the dimity, and stitched down, finishing off with a narrow fringe. Woollen stuff, pieces of velvet, plush, silk, or satin cut into squares and laid on a dark foundation, fastened down with feather stitch in silk of a contrasting colour, form most charming borders for table covers. Those who have little money to spend on the renovation of furniture battered and worn, can often give brightness and freshness to the old things by contrivances of this kind, which only require taste and a little time. No woman ought to outlive the love of " pretty things." It is often those who have met and survived all the shocks of fate who show the greatest love for them. The faculty of being interested in little things is one to be culti- vated, for it renders life pleasant when it has ceased to be absorbing, and affords occupation to persons who would be miserable if idle, and yet have no pressing claims either for themselves or others. There may be few such, but still there some, in the evening of life, both among widows and childless wives, as^well as those who have lived lonely lives, without forming ties of any kind. CRETONNE WORK Is composed of groups of flowers, leaves, birds, &c., cut out from cretonne, and worked artistically upon the material chosen for the ground, which may be twill, serge, cloth, or satin. A black ground looks well, and serves to heighten the effect of the colours employed in the work. Cut out a sufiicient number of scraps, then place them on the material to judge of the effect, and having arranged them in in nice position, tack them down securely, and work them all round in buttonhole stitch or overcast stitch, with embroidery silk or filoselle the same shade as the cretonne. Work a few effective stitches with bright-coloured filoselles in the centre of the flowers, putting shaded green veinings upon the leaves. The shades of ■ filoselles should match each flower and leaf, and the most important flowers and leaves must be the most worked, the others will only require a few stitches here and there. The veiy thin stalks and stamens, in places where the cretonne would be apt to fray, must be worked entirely in silk. In this work a great deal depends upon the correct taste of the worker, as no two pieces of cretonne work can be exactly alike. A little practice is necessary to be able to vary the stitches in length, and put in the stalks of silk with good effect. Bundles of cretonne scraps can be had from the large upholsters. HONEYCOMB DARNING. This pretty work is suitable for toilet covers, chair backs for a bedroom, nightdress cases, mats, &c., and is worked with'coloured yarns or Berlin wool. It can be most effectively rendered on the honeycomb towelling, which material, as its name implies, is divided into tiny squares ' like the cells of the honeycomb. The threads that form these squares stand up from the surface, and the wool is passed underneath them instead of through the entire material, and is shown in dots or darning at the bottom of the cells, The Grecian 134 key pattern is a good one for beginners, but almost any geometrical design can be adapted to the work. The material is also to be had in alternate squares, plain and honeycombed, and in this form will m-^ke up into cot quilts and summer counterpanes, having a little square pattern darned on the honeycomb, and large stars worked on the plain squares. GERMAN CROSS-STITCH WORK Is very much used for sideboard cloths, five o'clock tea cloths, serviettes, and all kinds of table-linen, and also for towel borderings. Many of the old Berlin woolwork patterns will come in useful for this work, and a great variety of new designs have been prepared on purpose for it. Several new kinds of linen and cotton are woven in small canvas-like squares, so that the pattern can be followed on linen the same as on canvas ; that called respectively Java canvas, Connaught check, and toile Colbert, is woven all over alike, and can be worked in continuous patterns or not as desired ; German canvas, or toile Carree, is woven in diamonds of close and open threads, and it is intended for a small entire design to be worked in each open diamond. Besides these materials, which are sold by the yard, there are various linens and damasks woven and fringed complete in certain sizes for special articles. Ingrain cotton is used for the work : the best is Meig's. This cross-stitch work is fashionable also for embroidery with silks and filoselles on cloth or velvet for table covers, and on Roman sheeting for chair backs, likewise with wool for ornamenting bath blankets, flannels, &c. To work on these materials it is necessary to have a canvas tacked down to work over, and of course when following the pattern the needle is to be passed through the material as well as through the canvas, and when the work is finished the canvas is drawn away thread by thread, and the pattern remains clear and distinct. This has a remarkably good effect, and the work is very easy and pleasant. ORIENTAL WORK May be applied to almost anything capable of needlework de- coration — music stool covers, footstool covers, cushions, banner screens, tea cosies, work baskets, reticules, mats, &c., all look lovely in this work, which is easy and full of variety ; indeed its variety makes it difficult to describe. Any odd scraps of silk, satin, velvet, plush, cloth, sateen, and even flannel work up beautifully. Supposing it is decided to make a square rfiat for a table, first of all take a piece of canvas or any kind of linen, the size it is intended the mat shall be, and using this as a foundation, tack on to it a much smaller square exactly in the centre ; next tack four very small pieces in each corner (calculating for a margin of about an inch round the outside to unravel afterwards for fringe), and four long pieces in the spaces still left, leaving about a third of an inch space between the pieces, which space should be covered with any dark self-coloured silk lapped over by the edges of the square pieces. All these pieces will be raw at the edges, and the next thing will be to make them neat and firm. Take a length of Berlin wool, or better still, three thicknesses of worsted crewels, hold them with the left hand exactly over the edge of the stuff, and threading a needle with three pieces of filoselle of any shade that is liked, proceed to overcast them ; this will give a cord-like finish. More pieces of any imaginable shape may be tacked on to those already arranged, always taking care to make them firm in the manner described. Take the tacking threads out of each piece as it is finished. All the pieces as well as the spaces between them, are to be filled in with various pretty fancy stitches worked with bright-coloured filoselles according to taste ; no two pieces should be alike ; the worker will very soon find no difficulty in inventing new stitches, as one seems to suggest another, — feather stitch, coral stitch, button-hole (all these have been fully de- scribed), any long crossed stitches, darning, or French knots, all look well, and gold cord may be intermingled with them. On no account should any material with a pattern on its surface be used, as this pattern takes away from the artistic appearance of the work. Of course, exeepting for a mat, it is not necessary always to arrange the work in squares, nor in any particular shape ; the most irregu- larly-formed pieces can beused, as uniformity is not to be aimed at. The two books post free, bix stamps. HOUSEHOLD ACCOUNT AND COOKERY BOOK, By MRS. LEACH, Containing Printed Pages for Housekeeping Expenses fnr Six Months, Middle-class Cookery, and Servants' Duties. K:c. Now ready ^ price ■?.(! WASHING AND LAUNDRY CHECK BOOK, By MRS^ LEACH. . „ . , Containiii" How to Wash, Starch and Iron, with vakialih Recipes for Clean ng, Dyeing &c. and printed Laundi-j' Checks for six months. Of all liook-ellers. MRS. LEA.CH, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet btrcet, London. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. MACRAME WORK. Preliminary Article. Tools required for macram:^ work : — The first thing neces- sary is a plain deal board without any covering, but very smooth ; the size of board depends on the work to be done ; the size on which to make bracket lengths should be 24 inches long, 1 1 inches wide, and i an inch thick ; for mantel or table borders, &c., it should be 9 inches over half of the length of the work, viz., a border 2i yards long, board ij yards long, the same width and thickness as short one. All boards should have a contrary piece of wood at each end, to keep the leaders from making dents. The next thing is a box of glass-headed pins, used to keep the work in place, 2 packing needles, i large, used to unpick work, i very small, used in passing threads, pair of scissors with sharp points, and a heavy-weight to keep the board firm. The cost of boards should be is. and is. gd. ; packing needles, 2d. ; pins, is. Materials used in macrame work : — For rich fringes ; silks and silk cords can be obtained in many colours, the former by the ounce, the latter by the ball or skein. For fine hnen work fringes, we have fine linen thread, sold at 6d. the ball. For massive patterns, suitable for bags, borders,_brackets, &c., we have the macramfi twine in many colours, different ;sizes and various makes ; the best for working is that having a fine silky appearance, and if coloured twine, that should be chosen having no white in the centre, but dyed through ; you will also require some coarse white evenly-twisted string for foundation lines, sold at all rope and twine dealers by the yard ; it measures about J inch round, and is much better for the purpose than the doubled twine as generally used. Having obtained suitable tools and material, we now proceed to the method and rules of working, or knotting, as it is properly called. The great principles of knotting work are, 1st, the tightness of the foundation lines, as if they are loose and slack the work cannot be firm, and having the foundation lines very tight, you must (2nd) be particular to draw each thread up tightly, and keep them level and flat, not one on the other. You will see from Fig I fig- 3- be knotted on to them ; we now come to the macrame stitch or knot. Take hold of the 2nd foundation line with your right hand a few inches to the right of where you are working, and raise a little from the board, then with the ist string in your left hand pass it over the line, then under and up through the loop made by itself, draw it up tight ; do this again with the same string; this is the macrami foundation stitch ; it is repeated with every string along the line ; keep these stitches flat, and do not draw them on to each other. Fig. I. the way in which the foundation lines are put upon the board ; the specimen gives the back of the board ; the front where you work is all level and straight. When 2 foundation lines are used at the beginning, as in specimen, the top one must always be the same twine as the work, and the same colour. When you have decided what twine to use, cut off a piece double the length of the work you wish to do, and 12 inches over for fastening, double it, put it round the board, pass the 2 ends through the loop, and put your board end-wise on the table and draw it as tightly as you can, and fasten it with several knots. The thick foundation line is always put on one thickness, not doubled ; tie the end to make a loop, put it round board and draw it as firmly as possible, and fasten off" in the same way, place the fastenings at the left hand as you work, and underneath the board. Note.— All work is done/r(?;;z right to left. Fig. 2 Shows the method of knotting single threads on to the ist founda- tion line ; cut a number of strings the lengths given in the various patterns (and should no length be stated, cut ssfficient string for i scollop or pomt, a piece too long, then for the rest you can measure correctly by deducting what you have left), double each one evenly, pass the loop downwards under the foundation line, bring the two ends over the line and pass them through the loop and draw it up. Fig. 3 Shows the 2nd foundation line put on as Fig. i indicates, and is of thick string ; take care to put all foundation lines on the top of the strings to No. 8. Fig. 4- Fig. 5. Fig. 4 , .Shows the same thing with 2 strings put on at once, ^which, for large pieces of work, is a quicker way. Fig. 5, You will see, has but i foundation line, that is the thick string ; take 2 strings and double them, then make a knot as shown in Fig. 6, draw it up tightly, put it under the line and just above, as shown in Fig. 5, and knot each string twice on to the foundation line. Fig. 7 Shows a slanting bar, taking the ist string on right as leader; you knot each of the others on to it twice in the same manner you work the foun- dation lines ; you must always have the leaders at the top of the strings to be knotted. TilE FANCV WORK-BASKET. What to make for Bazaars. As the season for bazaars will be upon us almost directly, we propose giving in these pages directions for making a few easy and useful as well as ornamental articles, as a guide to those who have promised to work for a bazaar, and do not know the best and most saleable things to make, and also have not much money at their disposal. Plain Holland Aprons will always find a ready sale, if well made and inexpensive. The diagram is an embroidered one, and would take fg" ' ' ' , - J about one yard and a half of hoUand. It is made rather long, with the corners rounded. In one corner daffodils are embroidered ; the flowers are worked in with two shades of yellow loashing silks, the leaves and stems are better put in with crewels. The bib and pocket are also embroidered. There are many different kinds of aprons, but we have given a description of a use- ful one, as we heard a lady say who had just come from a bazaar, " I walked up and down looking for a useful apron, and could not find one." A pattern of almost any shaped apron can be obtained from our pattern department, price 3d., and a design of the same is given, showing how to make and trim it. A book will be sent showing a variety on application. It is so difficult to find articles for gentlemen, so perhaps the following may be useful. Bag and Ball of String. Materials required— a sixpenny ball of string and a skein of brown crochet cotton. Begin by crocheting the bottom of the bag, going round and round, increasing it until it is wide enough to take the ball, then straight round and round without increasing. At the top make an open row of crochet, by alternately crocheting a treble and three chain, missing three loops. Now run a ribbon, blue or any colour, through these, and draw it up tight with bow, taking care to leave a small end of string hanging out. Now you have something which all gentlemen will readily purchase. Dinner Mats are very inexpensively contrived, hut as they are fully explained with a diagram on page 138, we will only say that, if neatly and nicely made, they sell very well, as they are both useful and ornamental, and so easy that even a child could make them. Then there are riiats made of American cloth, cut in ovals, and painted in oils ; for instance, pale blue cloth, painted with sprays of dark green ivy leaves, and bound round with dark green ribbon, are verj' pretty. They ought to be made in different sizes, and six in a set, if meant for dinner mats. Children's Pinafores are always acceptable, and can be made so prettily that for the benefit of our readers we will describe one we saw the other day. It was made of white spotted muslin, and trimmed with lace and ribbon. The muslin was in four pieces, two for the back, and two for the front. The two straight edges of the front pieces are hemmed and joined together by lace insertion, about three inches wide, or if insertion to match the edging cannot be procured, sew two pieces of lace together (not the straight edge of the lace). Now that the front is made, the back pieces must be joined to it, at the sides, leaving room for the arm-holes. Next hem down the back pieces, leaving them open to the bottom. The neck must now be hemmed and that part which has been left open for the arms. Now pleat in the lace for the sleeves by begmnmg at the side seam, and continuing on to the point of muslin, go on pleating the lace alone for about three inches, to allow it to go over the shoulder ; catch up the point on the opposite side, and continue on to the side seam where you com- menced-' The other sleeve is of course put in the same. Pleat the lace round the neck, and the same round the bottom of the skirt. The pinafore is now finished, except the ribbons— black velvet looks well, or any colour ribbon. One we saw had a large bow of handsome cerise-coloured ribbon on the left-hand 136 shoulder, the same colour was run in the lace at the neck, and the pinafore was fastened behind with two bows of the same. We will send a book, on application, showing a large number of children's pinafores, and will furnish the pattern of any one for 2d. Address to Pattern Department at this office. Cot Quilts are the next we shall speak of. One we saw was so pretty and yet so inexpensive that we think we must describe it. It was made of cream-coloured washing material and coarse lace. The material was in three strips, and on each was appliqued handsome sprays of flowers cut from cretonne, stitched on with button-hole stitch in crimson silk. Between each strip was lace insertion about three inches wide ; it was lined with red turkey twill, and finished with a flouncing of lace all round. Work-baskets for children can be made very nicely out of old strawberry baskets, and very tasteful and pretty they look when done. They are lined with quilted silk or satin of any colour. A band of silk is put round the outside and a flounce of lace sewn on round the edge, so that it hangs over the outside. A little pincushion, covered with the same silk and trimmed with lace, is put on inside, and a little pocket is stitched on at the other side. Small Plush Bags, drawn with silk cord and filled with sweets, are very acceptable with the children ; there were a quantity sold at one bazaar for 4d. each. Fans are always useful, and can be made to look handsome at a very small expense. Procure one of those round light straw fans, cover it with black satin, stitched round the edge, and draw it tightly up at the centre. Now arrange very full and fussy black lace round the edge, and if you can paint it would be greatly improved by a spray of yellow roses being painted on the satin. To finish off", put a large satin bow on the handle. Another one is of white satin, pink dog roses painted on it, and white swansdown stitched on round the edge, and finished off" with a bow of pink and white satin ribbon tied on the handle. Tie Boxes are useful for gentlemen. Some mill- board must be got, and out of it cut the foundation of the box — to get the right length, it is best to measure a gentleman's tie, if pos- sible. The box is in six pieces — sides, bottom, ends, and lid. Cover and line each piece with satin and embroider on the lid "Ties." The silk for the embroidery should be a contrast, or one or two shades darker or lighter than the satin. To explain, a box covered with bronze-green satin ; embroider the letters in bright gold silk, and the cord should match the silk. The cord is put on to cover all joins, and a tassel in front to lift up the lid by. Glove-boxes and hand- kerchief-boxes can be made in this way, and very handsome they look. A Novel Pincushion. — Cut a piece of cardboard in the shape of an open fan, cover it with satin, and mark the divisions of the fan by stitchings of gold silk ; then it must have a spray of flowers or a bird painted on it : a brass ring must now be inserted where the divisions of the real fan would be fastened together, to hang it up by. The pins are put in closely all round the edge. Sofa Cushion Covers, or Save-Alls (to be put on to keep the handsome covers from dust), are made of cream-spotted muslin, like an ordinary pillow case, only buttoned instead of being tied, with a frill of narrow lace all round. Muslin covers, edged with lace, to cover small tables, which are handsomely covered with plush, &c., are very simply made, being merely squares of muslm edged with a frill of lace. Antimacassars are made of six satin squares, em- broidered or painted, joined together by lace insertion, and edged with lace. One, made of moss-green satin with bunches of prim- roses painted on it, trimmed with yellow lace, looked particularly pretty and effective ; then those squares of lace with ribbon between each, and trimmed all round with lace are very nice. Another pretty one is made of soft cr@me muslin, with cretonne sprays appliqued on at each end of the muslin, and the muslin fringed out to the depth of two inches ; these are gathered up in the centre and put on the chair back in the form of a bow. Children's Things are always wanted, especially babies' clothing — such as dresses and petticoats. An elegant little dress is made of deep cream muslin, the skirt very full, and turned up with a deep hem, trimmed with three tucks ; the skirt is gathered into a full bodice. Round the neck, lace to match the colour of the muslin, and about two inches and a half wide, is gathered on full, so as to fall over the bodice, and the same round the sleeves. "These are very suitable for the hot weather. Print Dresses made in the same style are pretty. About one yard and a half of print is required, and the bodice must be lined with white silesia lining, and the neck, sleeves and skirt edged with narrow embroidery ; the sleeves must be made full. A HANDSOME COVER for small table is of deep crimson stamped velvet, the pattern being outlined with gold silk, and finished oft" with ball fringe. Text Cards, hand-painted, will always sell if nicely painted. Those with seaweed or ferns pressed on them, with landscapes or seascapes painted, are very tasteful and pretty. There are many more articles we could mention, such as Mantel Borders and Curtains, and Screens for the fireplace, THE ivill ihink we have spoken of very commonplace things, but everyone will buy meful articles, but not all will buy simply ornamental thmgs ; and as a bazaar is on purpose to make money, it is best to send such thmgs as will meet the wants of all who attend. Of course, we might men- tion many handsome things, but we are writing for those who have not much moimj, but only time at their disposal. 0^/ter Pretty Fancy Bazaar Articles, NOVEL CANDLESTICK PENWIPER. Materials required : — 4 oz. of two shades of crim- son single Berlin, \ oz. of black, 1 brass ring about 2 inches round, a piece of black cloth, small round of cardboard, a small piece of cotton wool, and crochet cotton, about No. 12 or 14 would do, bone hook No. 12, steel hook No. 3. For the foundation, cut a round of cardboard measuring 3 inches across; cover this with a piece of black silk or lining both sides. Now with black wool and bone hook make a chain of 2, unite and fill with double crochet, go on working in rounds, taking up back loop only, increasing by making two stitches into one when necessary to make it lie flat. Work in this way until you have a round same size as the cardboard foundation. This will have to be sewn on to the foundation after the candlestick is made. You must now fasten on to this work the darkest shade of crimson and work i row of double crochet all round. 2nd row — with same colour make a chain of 3 to form a treble stitch, then i treble, 3 chain, 2 treble into the ist stitch of double crochet in previous row, * miss 3, 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble into the 4th stitch again, and repeat from * for 16 times round ; join. 3rd row — same colour, work 10 treble into each loop of the 3 chain in previous row, do this into every hole or loop all round and join. 4th row — fasten on lightest shade of crimson, and work in doulsle crochet into every stitch, taking up the back part of stitch all round. Finish off — this is to form the outer edge of the candlestick. For inner edge, fasten on the darkest shade of crimson into the 2nd row of black from the edge, and work 3 chain, i double crochet for 12 times at equal distances round this row of black. 2nd row— 5 treble into each hole, no chain between. 3rd row — fasten on the lightest shade of crimson, and work a row in double crochet I into each stitch ; finish off. Now for the basin to hold the candle. You must fasten on the darkest shade of crimson and work into the 3rd row of black from last edge, a row of double crochet, join, and work 5 rows in the same way, but put your hook right through both loops instead of at the back. 6th row — fasten on the lightest shade of crimson, and work i row of double crochet rather tightly. Now take the brass ring and work into it as many double crochet stitches as will fill up the ring ; then sew it on firmly to one side of the basin and bottom ; this is for the handle. For the extinguisher — make a chain of 2 and join in the darkest shade of crimson ; work round in the shape of a thimble, which you can tell by placing it on your finger, about 6 rows in the same way as the basin, viz., putting your hook through both loops instead of at the back of stitch, fasten on lightest shade of crimson and work i row of double crochet all round, and make a chain of about 24, and join to opposite side of handle. For the candle — roll up a piece of cotton wool in the shape of a candle, and put a piece of stiff writing paper or cardboard round it to fit the bottom of basin, then make a chain of 2 and join ; work in the crochet cotton like the basin and extinguisher until it is the required length of 4 inches, then fasten it on over the roll of wool and paper by chain stitches across the bottom, and sew firmly into bottom of the basin, then with a needle and black wool you make the wick at the top, Ijy just sewing i strand of wool across, and cut. Now sew your candlestick to the cardboard foundation. Now pink out 4 rounds of black cloth size of bottom of the candlestick, and sew them on underneath ; this forms the penwiper. Pale blue and old gold would look charming for these novelties, especially if wanted for a bazaar. DAHLIA PENWIPER. Materials required : — short lengths of yellow and 3 shades of crimson or lilac double Berlin wool, and about i of an ounce of black fleecy or Berlin, bone hook No. 7. Commence by making 3 chain of the yellow wool, and join round, work into it with the same colour 7 long treble stitches, and join round. ist row — with darkest shade of crimson, work i double crochet, 5 chain, take out your hook, put it through the double crochet, and pass it behind the 5 chain, which you must catch and pull through at the back, which will form the loop, I chain, i double crochet on next stitch. Re- peat until you have 7 loops, join these together with a single chain or stitch. 2nd row — with the same shade, is worked exactly in the same way, viz : — i double crochet, 5 chain, but there must be 14 loops in this row, so you must now work i into the I chain which you made between the loops in last row, and i long at the back of each loop, after that there is no increasing required, as you only make the loops on the chain between. 3rd row— fasten on next shade of crimson, and work in the same way. 4th row — in same colour, the same. 5th row — fasten on the lightest shade of crimson, and work in same way. 6th row — same, in same colour ; there must be 2 rows of each shade, but you can work all the 6 rows in one colour, if you wish, although it is far prettier in the 3 shades ; after you haye finished the yellow centre, you turn and work all the other rows at the back. To finish — wind round your fingers the black fleecy wool as thick as will fill the flower ; tie up tightly and cut one end ; the tied end fasten inside at the top of the flower, and cut the other even, and it is then completed ; of course the inside is the penwiper. If a large one is required, you can make 8 or 10 rows, and more shades. This can stand on the table. NEW PATCHWORK. This patchwork has the very great advantage of not requiring the te- dious operations of cutting papers and sewing the pieces together when covered, to say nothing of the wearisome task of taking out the cards again after all the interesting part of the business is completed. The pieces of silk or satin of which it is composed should be cut all the same size, that is, 10 inches by 3 in width. The lower edges of these pieces should be fringed out for about half an inch of their depth, the other edges being gathered up tightly with a strong thread, a small fan-shaped piece being the result. When a sufiicient number of these pieces has been made, they must be stitched to a foundation of broad black tape in such a manner that each fan-shaped piece overlaps the other. Alternately with the strips thus made may be used strips of ribbon velvet or satin, the velvet especially giving a very handsome result. SPECTACLE CLEANERS. These are verj' simple and easy to make, and have the ad- vantage of requiring only very small scraps of material in their manufacture. To make them, cut two pieces of good material, like plush or satin, for the out- side, oval in shape, and measur- ing about 3 inches long by 2 inches wide ; cut off i an inch at the top of the oval, so as to get a straight edge. Next, cut 2 pieces of washleather just a j of an inch smaller all round than the plush, lay each one against one of the pieces of plush, and bind them all round with narrow ribbon. The result thus obtained is : 2 pieces of plush, each lined with washleather. Finally, sew these together neatly along the straight edge at the top, and finish with a pretty tie of narrow ribbon. Some people would prefer the 137 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET pieces of wash-leather left quite free, like the leaves of a needle- book, but this is a matter for individual fancy. They may be easily made more attractive in appearance by the addition of a monogram or spray of flowers worked on the plush before it is made up. DINNER OR TABLE MATS. Materials re- quired : some red Berlin, or any other colour of wool that is liked, a quantity of brass rings about 3 inches round, or smaller, if prefer- red, steel hook No. I. You begin by tying the wool into a ring, and then work double crochet very thick- ly and evenly into every ring, and finish off most securely ; you must work a. lot of rings first, and then arrange them to the size you require the mats to be, firmly sewing each ring together with wool on the wrong side. The best plan is to make them the size of any old ones you may have by you ; they are so durable, will last for years, and keep the table free from the heat of the dishes, as the rings, when worked in this way, keep the dishes higher from the table than the ordinary flat ones, and look extremely nice and uncommon. TABLE NAPKIN RINGS. You work the rings with wool in just the same way as for the dinner mats. Make 3 rows and join them together in a round band on the wrong side ; two colours are very pretty, say old gold and blue, and ruby with blue or olive green. Put 2 or 3 gold or steel beads at each join of the rings, that is between each, which looks extremely pretty, and if wanted to be different, each napkin ring can be worked in two distinct colours, so that each person may know their own. PENCE BAG. Materials required :■ — i an oz., or a little less, of shaded green single Berlin wool, 1 small fancy button, bone hook No. 10. Com- mence by making a chain of 3, and join by a slipstitch, then work 17 treble into this ring of chain, and join. 2nd row — 3 chain to make a treble stitch, and work 2 treble into every > stitch, thus making 34 stitches in I this row ; this makes the round piece for front of the bag. Now for the back part — make a chain of 3, and join by a slipstitch, and work 17 treble into this ring of chain, same as for ist round. 2nd row — 2 treble into every stitch, so as to make 34 stitches n this row ; same as the other round. 3rd row— I double crochet into 1st stitch, then 8 treble, being i into every stitch, then i double crochet again over samestitch in last row, I treble into next, 2 treble into next, 5 treble into next 5 stitches, that is i into each, 2 stitches into the next, i double into next ; fasten off. This piece is for the flap to fasten over the fronl. You must now place the 2 pieces together and join oq the w ool, and work 3 chain, i double crochet into both pieces at once, taking the 2 stitches together, and thereby joining the 2 rounds together ; do this for 21 times, which will leave a space for the pence to be put in. Now make a chain of 17, turn and work 16 double crochet all along the chain, and then join the other side, to form the handle, then sew on firmly a pretty fancy button - in the centre of the ist round, and fasten the flap over this button in the middle of the 2 centre stitches of flap. Now this useful little bag is finished, and they sell well at bazaars, and look very nice on Christmas trees, and come in for the bran tubs often seen at bazaai s. Any odd pieces of wool can be used up by making alternate rows of colour, or one side one colour and the other another, according to the taste of the worker. 138 PENCE HAT. Materials required : — 4 oz. black single Berlin, and any odd lengths of blue or red Shetland, less than | of an oz. of the Shetland would do, J of a yard of black ribbon, id. width, steel hook No. li. Commence by making 2 chain and unite, and work in double crochet rather tightly, increasing where neces- sary by working 2 double crochet into I stitch until it is a little larger than half-a-crown, then work without any increasing for g rows, this forms the head part, always take up the back loop. You now increase by working 2 double crochet into every stitch all round the brim, then work 2 more rows without any increasing, and fasten off very neatly; this finishes the hat. For the lining, fasten on the red or blue Shetland wool inside the crown, and work i treble into every stitch (no chain) round the head tightly. 2nd row — i treble between every one of the previous row. 3rd row — same. 4th row — same. 5th row — same. 6th row — same. 7th row — same. Fasten off securely, and make a chain of the double wool, long enough to draw the lining up like a bag, and tie in a bow, this is the place for putting the pence in, the lining can then be tucked inside when not in use, and looks like a gentleman's hat; put the black ribbon neatly round the crown, and fasten off with a small bow. POSTAGE STAMP CASE. Materials : — 2 pieces ot perforated cardboard, white, gold or silver. You must cut it 4 inches long and rather more than 2 inches wide, then 2 more pieces 2i inches long and ij inches wide, i of an oz. of Oxford or Cam- bridge blue Berlin wool, i of a yard of ribbon to match, id. width. To begin, you work in cross or marking stitch all round both pieces of card- board 4 inches long, i row, 3 rows of holes in from the edge, then the word Stamps one side, and Postage the other ; then join the 2 pieces together with the wool by slipping it from I stitch to the other, leaving one end open. You then join the other 2 pieces together one end by cross stitches, 2 holes in from the edge, then cut off a small piece of one end so as to leave the other part double, then cut the double piece up the middle. This leaves a space for putting the stamps in. Tie the piece of ribbon into the middle of the single end of cardboard. This is to pull it out by from the inside. STRAWBERRY EGG COSY. Materials required : — J oz. of 4 shades of crimson single Berlin, J oz. dark green, steel hook No. ij. Commence by making a chain of 2 in the lightest shade of crimson, and unite, then work in rounds of double crochet right through the stitch, not at the back, and increase by working 2 stitches into i, when necessary, to keep it flat, and until the top measures about the size of a five-shilling piece, or a little larger, then work 4 rows quite plain, that is, without any increasing, to make it look cap shape, then fasten on the 2nd shade of crimson, and make a chain of 3, and work 3 treble into i stitch, then take out the hook, and insert it at the ist treble stitch, and draw the 3rd treble stitch tightly to the 1st stitch, then make i chain and 3 treble, and catch the 3rd treble into the ist as before, and repeat at equal distances all round the top until there are 16 bunches of 3 treble, join, and draw wool up, and repeat in same way for i more row in same colour. There are 2 rows worked in each shade. Now fasten on 3rd shade of crimson, and work in same way, put 4 treble into every hole and catch the 4th into the ist treble; do this for 16 times. Next row just the same, and in the same colour ; now fasten on the 4th shade of THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. crimson and work 5 treble i chain into every hole, catching the Sth into the ist treble stitch ; work 2 rows like this, which finishes the cosy ready for the leaves at the top, which are made as follows — make a chain of 10 with the green wool, turn, and work i double crochet, 6 treble, 2 double crochet, turn round, and work 2 double crochet at the back of previous row, then treble all round, increasing at the point by making 5 stitches into i, then work as before, finishing the row with 2 double crochet ; this forms one leaf; now make 1 1 chain from this leaf to begin the 2nd leaf, and ^york in same way, repeat until you have 5 leaves, which must be joined as neatly as possible by double crochet stitches to fit the top, then with the wool doubled work a chain of 7 from one side to the other, and fill up with double crochet, make it as thick and firm as possible, then draw the ends through ; this forms the handle ; sew on neatly over the top and arrange the leaves regularly round, when the cosy will be finished. This is for i egg, and should be about 5 inches in depth. There will be sufficient wool for two cosies. FAN BED POCKET. For Handkerchief and Letters. Materials required for 2 pockets : — 2 of the Japanese fans about 10 inches across which are to be bought at id. each, i yard of cre- tonne or pretty Pompadour print — something with birds or flowers on is most suitable — 6 yards of cream lace about an inch and half wide, which is to be bought at a penny per yard, and 6 yards of common ribbon to ruche up, i yard of flat elastic id. width, and 2 yards of ribbon in two colours to match material used, any width you like. You first cover the fans with a flat piece of cretonne, leaving the picture at the back, you then cut a strip 2 inches deeper than half of the fan, and about half a yard wide, you now make a hem at the top and make a runner for the elastic, then pin the work in half and pin to the half of fan round each corner, and gather or pleat it to the bottom and sew all round to the edge from one side to the other, you must run the elastic in first to size across the fan (or you can put a piece of whalebone which would make the pocket set out more); when the pocket is put on securely you must pleat the lace and sew on all round the fan, commencing at handle, then put the ruche of ribbon or a fancy trimming over all the stitches, and tie the 2 coloured ribbons in a bunch of loops round handle, and leave 2 short ends behind to tie it on to the hook at head of bed or where you like; a little bird or bunch of artificial flowers put on one side is considered by some an improve- ment. Of course these pockets can be made to match bed hangings if wished. Another way for making pockets is to put the outside piece plain, but before sewing it on to the fan stitch j, ieces on the outside to hold scissors and needles, and just above the pocket put a little cushion for pins, and if liked a small looking glass which you can buy at any toy shop for a penny, this must be stuck on with gum, and a narrow ruche or piece of fancy trimming laid round the edge of glass. For this kind, we should suggest alarger fan, which could be made a very useful receptacle for odds and ends in a bedroom, and hang up out of the way. CRACKER PINCUSHIONS. Some of the prettiest and daintiest pincushions are now those made in the form of a cracker or cosaque. They are by no means difficult to make. For the inside, cut a piece of calico, holland, or any ordinary material of the kind that is most convenient, measur- ing 5 inches each way, join it into cylindrical form, tie one end firmly round with a strong thread about an inch from the edge, and stuff the remaining part as firmly and compactly as possible with bran. Tie this also very tightly about an inch from the end . This forms the useful pincushion part. The outside ornamental part may be niade of satin painted prettily, or of tinsel gauze over bright blue silk or satin. This outside cover must measure 7 inches and a half long by 5 inches and a half wide. At either end sew round a piece of either white or gold lace— a piece of white lace with a band or heading of tinsel ribbon looks very well, in fact, anything that will make it look as cracker-like and gay as possible. Sometimes they are made of two or three different coloured satins, for instance, crimson in the middle, with pale blue ends, or violet in the middle, with one end blue and one pink. When the ends are ornamented, the next thing to be done is to join the satin cover down the side in a cylindrical form, then slip it over the inner pin- cushion, tying it firmly round with gold cord in the same place that the inside pincushion has been previously tied, thus completing its cosaque appearance. Occasionally the satin of which these pin- cushions are made is rolled round the inner part comerivise, so that the ends instead of being straight finish in a point. Emery powder may be used instead of bran, if a really useful pincushion is required, and a gold cord 10 inches in length, one end attached to each tie of cord in the cracker may be added to hang it up by. If preferred, very elegant scent sachets may be made in a similar manner, a roll of wadding thickly sprinkled \vith scent powder being substituted for the bran. JAPANESE SCREEN PINCUSHION. Of late, the shops, whose managers make a speciality of Japanese goods, have displayed a multitude of tiny hand-screens measur- ing about 34 inches at their widest part, and with a handle between 5 and 6 inches long, finished ofT with a cord and tassel at the end. These can be transformed into most charming flat pincushions in a very simple manner. First, the exact shape of the screen (without the handle) is cut out in rather firm cardboard, and covered with any suitable silk or brocade. The screen itself is now covered with either the same silk as the first piece, or with a different one, according to the taste of the worker. The two pieces thus covered are now laid exactly together and sewn with small neat stitches all round. There will be found a considerable amount of difficulty in get- ting the silk to fit well over the lower part of the screen, but this may be overcome by twisting a piece of cotton once or twice round the top of the stick. This will be hidden by a piece of bright ribbon which is put round the stick as near the screen as it will go, tied in a natty little bow, and secured in place by a few stitches. The silk may be ornamented by a painting in Japanese style, or by a transfer picture, a more ordinary coloured scrap, or by embroidery. The pins are stuck in round the edge where the two silk-covered pieces are sewn together. ARUM PINCUSHION. The sunflower pincushion, which sohit the publictasteuponits first appearance, has given riseto many modifications of the same idea. Water-lilies, asters and daisies are all so easy to construct upon the same plan that there is no need to give details here. A novelty is the arum pincushion, and this is by no means difficult to make, with the aid of a little patience and ingenuity. To form the white part of the flower (botanically known as the spathe), a 3-inch double square of white satin is required ; the edges must be stitched very 139 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. neatly together, and the satin afterwards turned inside out, so that it is quite tidy. The square must be twisted as if about to make an old-fashioned horn-shaped sugar-bag, and the 2 sides secured in place with a stitch or two. For the centre yellow spike (technically known as the spadix) is needed a piece of yellow chenille, 34 inches long, through which a fine wire has been run. One end of this must be passed down the centre of the satin horn, and a piece of green silk covered wire twisted round the point to form the stalk of the flower, which is then completed. Next, a leaf of green plush or satin with spots and veins marked out in silk must be attached to the stalk of the flower at the side. Now the Httle round green pincushion should be fastened to the base of the leaf. It is very simply formed of a little round satin bag filled with bran. Some- times the pincushion is placed at the back, where it is less apparent. Finally, narrow green ribbon is twisted round the stem, so as to make a tidy finish to the whole thing. ►^ K^iT^iqjsig -1^^ QUILT IN OCTAGONS AND SQUARES. With a Border of Cable Pattern and an Open Lace. There are no octagons in this handsome quilt, 50 squares of cable pattern, and 40 squares of a dice pattern, there are also 38 half squares of the dice pattern to make the edges of the quilt straight. Materials required : — 9J lbs of the best quality unbleached knitting cotton No. 4, 3 thread, and 4 knitting needles No. 13, standard wire gauge. Cast on 8 stitches for centre of octagon, 3 stitches on 1st needle, 3 stitches on 2nd needle, and 2 stitches on 3rd needle ; with the 4.th needle knit as follows, ist round—* make a stitch (by throwing cotton round the needle), knit i plain stitch. Repeat from * 7 times more. Every alternate round is knitted plain. 3rd round — *make a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches. Repeat from * 7 times more. 5th round — * make a stitch, knit 3 plain stitches. Repeat from * 7 times more. 7th round— ■* make a stitch, knit 4 plain stitches. Repeat from * 7 times more. 9th round — * make a stitch, knit 5 plain stitches. Repeat from * 7 times more, nth round — * make a stitch, knit 6 plain stitches. Repeat from * 7 times more. 13th round — * make a stitch, knit 7 plain stitches. Repeat from * 7 times more. 15th round — * make a stitch, knit 8 plain stitches. Repeat from * 7 times more. 17th round — * make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 6 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together. Repeat from * 7 times more. 19th round-—* make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 5 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together. Repeat from * 7 times more. 21st round — * make a stitch, knit 2 stitches 140 together, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 1 plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 4 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together. Repeat from * 7 times more. 23rd round — * make a stitch, knit 2 together, make a stitch, knit 2 together, make a stitch, knit 2 together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 3 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together. Repeat from* 7 times more. 25th round * make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 ' stitches together, make a stitch, knit I plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together. Repeat from * 7 times more. 27th round — * make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together. Repeat from * 7 times more. 29th round — * make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together. Repeat from * 7 times more. 31st and 3 following rounds — knit plam. 35th and 3 following rounds — knit in purl stitches. 39th round — knit plain, then cast off loosely. When 1 10 octagons are knitted, commence the cable squares thus : — Cast on for each square 26 stitches. ist row — * purl 2 stitches, knit 4 stitches. Repeat from * 3 times more, and end row with 2 purl stitches 2nd row — knit where you purled in last row, and purl where you knitted. Repeat these 2 rows twice more, then work the twists thus. 7th row — * purl 2 stitches, then take a third needle, and on it slip the 2 next stitches oflf the left hand needle, leave them to the front and knit 2 stitches plain, then put the 2 stitches that are on the 3rd needle back agam on the left hand needle, and knit them plain. Repeat from * 3 times more, end row with 2 purl stitches. 8th row — knit same as 2nd row. Repeat from ist row 3 times more, and finish the square by knitting 4 rows same as the ist 4 rows were knitted ; cast off. When 50 cable squares are knitted commence the dice squares. Cast on 20 stitches. 1st row — *knit 2 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches. Repeat from * 4 times more. 2nd row — purl where you knitted, and knit where you purled in last row. 3rd row — * purl 2 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches. Repeat from * 4 times more. 4th row — like the 2nd. Repeat these 4 rows 5 times more and cast off. When the 40 squares of the dice pattern are knitted, work the half squares of the dice pattern, thus — Cast on 20 stitches, ist row — * knit 2 stitches, purl 2 stitches. Repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — knit where you purled, and purl where you knitted in last row, but decreasing I stitch at end of row by knitting 2 stitches together. 3rd row — knit I plain stitch, * 2 purl stitches, 2 plain stitches. Repeat to end of row, decreasing 'as in last row. Continue the dice pattern, taking care the dice come in the proper places, and de- creasing one stitch each row till only 2 stitches remain on the needle, cast them off. Knit 38 of these half squares, and then sew the several pieces together. Commence by taking 2 of the octagons and putting the wrong sides out, sew one side of each together, take a 3rd octagon, and sew it in the same way to the 2 octagons already joined, leaving 3 sides between the sewings ; continue in the same way till 1 1 octagons are joined together, which will make the length of the quilt; now join on a row of cable squares, there will be 10 squares in the row. Place the cable squares between the ist and 2nd octagons, making the cable run towards the the ist octagon, sew the 2 sides of the square in ; continue in same way, placing the 2nd square between the 2nd and 3rd octagon ; sew the cable squares in thus till the 10 are sewed in ; then sew 1 1 more octagons on, which completes the 2nd row of octagons. Now take 10 of the dice squares and sew them on, again 11 octagons, and then 10 cable squares ; in this row the cables should run in the reverse direction to those in the first row of cable squares. Continue in this way till all the octagons and squares are joined together, sew in the half squares, and the quilt will be ready for the border. For border — 3 needles will be required same size as those used for the quilt. Cast on 46 stitches. 1st row — slip 1st stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, work the twist of cable thus * take the 3rd needle and slip the next 2 stitches on left hand needle on it and leave them in front, then knit 2 plain stitches, then put back the 2 stitches on the 3rd needle to left hand needle again, and knit them plain, which forms the twist, purl 2 stitches. Repeat from * once more. Knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit i plain stitch, make 2 stitches by putting cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 together, knit 12 plain stitches,* make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. Repeat from * twice THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. more. 2nd row — knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch (the 2 made stitch of last row), knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, purl I stitch, knit 14 plain stitches, purl I stitch, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch. 3rd row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches,make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 5 plain stitches. 4th row — knit 27 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together,knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit I plain stitch. 5th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit I plain stitch, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 14 plain stitches, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches toge- ther, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. 6th row — knit 2 plain stitches, purl l stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, purl I stitch, knit 16 plain stitches, purl i stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch. 7th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches tegether, knit 30 plain stitches. 8th row — knit 32 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch. 9th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, * take the 3rd needle, slip 2 stitches off the left hand needle on it, leave them in front of work and knit 2 plain stitches, put the 2 stitches on 3rd needle back again on left hand needle, and knit them plain, purl 2 stitches. Repeat from * once more ; knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 17 plain stitches, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. loth row — knit 2 plain stitches, purl I stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, purl I stitch, knit ig plain stitches, purl i stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch. . nth row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 36 plain stitches. 12th row — knit 38 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit i plain stitch. 13th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 plain stitch, puil 2 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, * make 2 stitches, knit 3 stitches together. Repeat from * 10 times more. 14th row — knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch. Repeat from * 11 times more ; knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit I plain stitch. 15th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 37 stitches. i6th row — knit 39 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit I plain stitch. 17th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, with 3rd needle work twists same as in 1st and gth rows, which will take 10 stitches, then purl 2, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, * make 2 stitches, knit 3 stitches together, Repeat from * II times more. 1 8th row— * knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch. Repeat from * 1 1 times more ; knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit r plain stitch. 19th row— slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 37 plain stitches. 20th row — knit 39 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 stitches plain, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch. 2ist row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit i plain, * make 2 stitches, knit 3 stitches together. Repeat trom * 1 1 times more. 22nd row — * knit 2 plain stitches, purl i stitch. Repeat from * 1 1 times more, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit i plain stitch. 23rd row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 together, knit I plain stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 4 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 37 plain stitches, 24th row — cast off 16 stitches, knit 22 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 5 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch. Repeat from ist row till there is enough knitted to go round the quilt, minding when sewing the border to quilt to allow some fulness at the corners, so that it r.i y lie quite flat. THE CREEVE ANTIMACASSAR. The centre of this very effective antimacassar is a simple pattern, so simple that any one knowing anything of knitting could work it, but care is required to keep the stitches a regular size, as the good effect depends greatly on that. , Materials required : — 3 ounces of Strutts' best quality unbleached knitting cotton. No. 4, 3 thread, a skein of very fine crochet cotton, and an ounce of No- 10 crochet cotton for the lace edge, 2 knitting needles No. 8. When selecting the fine cottons, care should be taken to have them the same shade as the knitting cotton. With the knitting cotton No. 4, cast on 3 stitches. 2nd row — knit plain and increase i stitch at beginning of row, by lifting the loop below, and knitting it as a stitch. 3rd row — purl, and increase a stitch as in 2nd row. 4th row — same as 2nd row. 5th row — same as 3rd row. 5th row — same as 2nd row. 7th row — ^join on the very- fine crochet cotton, and then knit same as 6th row, do not break oft' the knitting cotton ; knit five rows more same as 6th row, then leave the fine cotton, and with the knitting cotton repeat the first 6 rows, counting the cast on switches as a row. There should be six rows of coarse, and 6 rows of fine knitting. Continue knitting as first THE FANCY WORK-BASKET 12 rows until there are loo stitches on the needle, then knit 4 rows without increasing, then decrease a stitch at beginning of each row by knitting 2 stitches together till there are only 3 stitches left on needle ; cast them off. For border :— with the crochet cotton No. 10, cast on 18 stitches. 1st row— knit 12 plain stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches (by putting cotton twice round the needle), knit 2 together, knit 2 plain. 2nd and every alternate row knit plain. 3rd row— knit 10 plain stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, knit I plam stitch, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch. 5th row— knit 8 plain stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, knit i plain stitch, make I stitch (by putting thread once round the needle), knit i plain stitch, make i stitch, knit 5 plain stitches. 7th row— knit 6 plain stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make i stitch, knit 3 plain stitches, make i stitch, knit I plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make i stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch. 9th row— knit 4 plain stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make i stitch, knit 5 plain stitches, make i stitch,knit i plain stitch,knit 2 stitches together.knit 3 plain stitches, nth row— knit 2 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together,knit 3 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make i stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 3 stitches together thus (slip i stitch, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 stitches knitted together), knit thus whenever directed to knit 3 stitches together ; make 3 stitches (by putting cotton 3 times round the needle), knit 2 stitches together, knit I plain stitch, make i stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 plain stitches. 13th row — knit 4 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, make i stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make i stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 4 plain stitches. 1 5th row— knit 6 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 plain stitches, make i stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make i stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 17th row— knit 8 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, make i stitch, knit 3 stitches together, make i stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 4 plain stitches. 19th row — knit 10 plain stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 2ist row— knit 12 plain stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 2 plain stitches, knit 2 together. 23rd row- knit 17 plain stitches, knit 2 together. Repeat from ist row until there is enough to trim the centre, allowing it to be full at the corners, so that it may lie flat ; sew it to centre. If liked a corner can be turned over for the top of antimacassar, and a pretty bow of ribbon attached to match the colours in the room it is used in. LACY ANTIMACASSAR. A very simple pattern for an effective antimacassar is here given. Its very simplicity is a novelty, and it is pleasant work, not requiring, much attention and little counting of stitches. The cotton is a kind of crochet cotton, ecru coloured, loom thread No. 12. 2 skeins will be required and 2 needles, No. 8. If wished in any partigular 143 colour, the Royal Irish silk thread is very suitable, and can be had in all colours. The loom thread can be had at 6d. per skein from "A. E. K.," Box 10, P. O., Ballymena, Ireland. The silk thread is manufactured by Messrs. Bairbour, Lisbum, Ireland. Cast on 5 stitches, and knit in plain rows like a garter, always slipping the 1st stitch of the row, and increasing i stitch after 3rd stitch in each row by lifting a loop from the row below and knitting it as a stitch. Continue knittingas directed till there are 100 stitches on the needle ; then knit 8 rows without any increasings, when half the square will be worked ; then decrease i stitch by knitting 2 stitches together after the 2nd stitch at beginning of the work, and work thus till there are only 5 stitches remaining on needle. Cast them off. Lace for Antimacassar. Cast on 18 stitches, ist row — make a stitch by putting the cotton round the needle before knitting a stitch, knit 18 plain stitches. 2nd row — slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together. 3rd row — make a stitch, knit 17 plain stitches. 4th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit I plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together. 5th row — make a stitch, knit 16 plain stitches. 6th row— slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches together. 7th row — make a stitch, knit 16 plain stitches. 8th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 1 plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together. 9th row — make a stitch, knit 16 plain stitches. loth row^-slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, nth row — make a stitch, knit 17 plain stitches. 12th row — slip a stitch, knit 2 together, make a stitch, knit 2 together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together. 13th row — make a stitch, knit 18 plain stitches. 14th row — sHp a stitch, knit 2 together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit i plain stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 3 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together. 15th row— make a stitch, knit 19 plain stitches. i6th row— slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together-, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together. 17th row — make a stitch, knit 18 plain stitches. Repeat from 2nd row till there is sufficient to go round the knitted square, having enough to go round the corners, so that the lace will lie quite flat — 10 to the knitted square. RAISED PLAIT PATTERN. For Sofa or Carriage Rug. Twelve-thread fleecy wool should be used for rugs, and No. 5 bone pins; you must have a third pin, pointed at both ends. Cast on 20 stitches, and knit 6 plain rows. 7th row — knit 4, * purl 4, turn round and knit and purl the last 4 alternately until 1 1 rows are done from *, then slip them on to a third pin, which you must keep on the right side of your knitting, and leave it alone for the present. Now purl 4 stitches off your left-hand needle that has 12 stitches upon it, on to your right pin, then purl the 4 stitches on the pointed pin on to your right pin. Note: you will have to begin purling the reverse end to where you put your stitches on ; hence the reason of the pin being pointed ; purl 4 off left pin, knit 4. 8th row- knit plain. 9th row— knit 4, purl 12, knit 4. loth row— knit 8, turn and * purl 4, turn and knit 4, repeat from * 8 times more. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Slip these 4 stitches on to pointed pin again, letting them hang on right side of work. Knit 4 stitches off left pin holding 13, knit the 4off pointed pin (working at reverse end as before), knit remainder of row plain, nth row — knit 4, purl 12, knit 4. 12th row — knit plain. Repeat from 7th row till a sufficient length is done, then knit 6 plain rows to correspond with those in the beginning. GATE PATTERN. This pattern is suitable for couvrettes, antimacassars, shawls, &c. Cast on 10 stitches for each pattern, and 2 extra for edge stitches, which allows for the ist stitch in every row to be slipped and the last knitted, ist row — wool forward, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 3, purl 5. 2nd row- knit 5, purl 5, repeat to end of row. 3rd row — knit i, wool forward, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, purl 5. 4th row — like the 2nd. 5th row — knit 2, wool forward, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, purl 5. 6th row — like the 2nd. 7th row — ktiit 3, wool forward, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, purl 5. 8th row — like the 2nd. 9th row — purl 5, knit 3, knit 2 together, wool forward. roth row — purl 5, knit 5, repeat to end of row. nth row — purl 5, knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i. I2lh row — like the loth. 13th row — purl 5, knit I, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 2. 14th row — like the loth. 15th row — purl 5, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3. i6th row — like the loth. Repeat from 1st row for length required. BEAN PATTERX. For Shav/l, &c. Cast on 8 stitches for each pattern and 4 extra for edge stitches, which are knitted plain at the beginning and end of each row. ist row— * wool forward, slip i.knit I, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat from* to end of row. 2nd row— all purl. 3rd row — * wool forward, slip I, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 6, repeat from * to end of row. 4th row — all purl. This completes the pattern. HONEYCOMB PATTERN. For Quilts, Toilets, &€. Cast on 8 stitches for eacfi pattern with 4 extra for edge stitches. 1st row — knit 2, * slip 2, knit 6, repeat from *, knit 2. 2nd row — knit 2, * purl, slipping the same 2 stitches as before, * knit 2. 3rd row — same as 1st. 4th row — same as 2nd. 5th row — same as 1st. 6th row— same as 2nd. 7th row — same as ist. Sth row — knit plain, including the slipped ones. 9th row— knit 2, all purl, knit 2. 10th row — knit plain, nth row — knit 6, slip 2, * knit 6, slip 2, repeat from *, knit 4. Repeat from 2nd row to the loth, then begin at the ist one. Begin eveiy other pattern by slipping 2, which divides the patterns regularly. SCALLOP SHELL PATTERN. Suitable for Couvkettes, Petticoats, Szc. Cast on 1 1 stitches for each pattern with 4 extra for edge stitches. 1st row — knit 2, * knit 2, make l, knit i, make i, knit I, make I, knit I, make i, knit i, make i, knit i, make i, knit I, make i, knit I, make l, knit 2, repeat from *, knit 2. 2nd row — knit 2, all purl, knit 2. 3rd row — knit 2, * take 2 together, knit 15, take 2 together, repeat from *, knit 2. 4th row — knit 2, * purl 2 together, rirl 13, 143 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. purl 2 together, repeat Irom *, knit 2. 5th row— knit 2, * purl 2 together, purl 11, purl 2 together, repeat from * knit 2. 6th row — knit 2, take 2 together, knit 9, take 2 together, repeat from * knit 2, repeat * from 1st row for length required. i s '4M Pi il ^«^ f-di> RAIN PATTERN. For Couvrettes, &c. Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern and 4 extra for edge stitches. 1st row—* knit i, wool forward, knit 6, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over the knitted ones, knit 5, wool forward, repeat from *. 2nd row — all purl. This completes the pattern. RUSSIAN REINS FOR CHILDREN. Materials re- quired : — 6 ozs. scarlet alloa yarn, 2 bone knitting pins No. 10, I yard of stout even box cord, 2 brass rings, size of half a crown, some flannel list, and 6 toy bells at one halfpenny each. These are made in plain knitting or garter stitch, in 4 dif- ferent pieces, viz., chest piece, reins, and 2 pieces for the armholes. Commence by casting on loosely, but evenly, 25 stitches for the front or chest-piece, and knit plain for nine or 144 ten inches, always slipping the ist stitch to keep the work firm at the edge. For armholes — cast on in the same way 10 stitches, and knit plain for 13 inches, then cast off. Work 2 pieces in this way. For the reins — cast on in the same way 10 stitches, and knit plain for a length of 2S yards, or 3 yards if wished longer ; always slip the ist stitch. Now the pieces are all completed. You must cut 2 pieces of cord i inch longer than the knitted pieces for armholes, then bind them over with the list, to prevent the cord cutting through the work ; you must bind them evenly. Before joining up, lay the piece of knitting over the cord, and slip i of the brass rings over it all, cord and knitting, then join the cord very strongly together, then the piece of knitting, and sew both edges together neatly with scarlet wool, taking care the ring will slip very easy all round ; do both armholes in this manner, then sew the chest-piece to each armhole, making the seam of cord and work go under the arm, then you slip the ends of the reins, or long piece of knitting, into each of the rings, and join the 2 ends together, then sew i bell on to the top of each shoulder, and 3 more along the centre of front, and i below the centre of the 3 bells above, when the reins will be completed. If liked, the name of the child, or a fancy horse could be worked in cross stitch on the front ; in that case, the bells could be arranged to the taste of the worker. INFANT'S FROCK. These little frocks are very pretty for the drawing-room, when they should be trimmed all round the neck, sleeves and skirt with a pretty cream lace, as shown in the illustration. For the nursery they are perhaps more useful without the lace, and look almost equally well. The skirt is knitted the short way for convenience in holding the work. For the skirt — cast on 84 stitches, knit 3 stitches plain, 3 stitches purl for 4 rows. 5 th row— plain. 6th row — purl. Then 3 purl stitches, 3 plain stitches (thus reversing the checks) for 4 rows, i row plain, i row purl. Repeat from the beginning and continue thus till you have 2 1 patterns. After the last purl row purl another row, knit 2 rows, purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows. The open pattern for the front now begins. The 9 stitches at one end must still be kept the check pattern. At the 10th stitch * put the wool over, knit 2 together, knit i, repeat from * till the last 6 stitches, which must be always knitted plain in every row. 2nd row of open pattern, plain, except the last 9 stitches, which must be kept the check pattern. Repeat till you have done 104 rows, when the open pattern is discontinued. Knit the other half of the skirt the same as the ist and cast off. For the band — pick up 90 stitches round the waist (the check pattern end), knit a row, pur 2 rows, knit 2 rows, knit a row with holes for ribbon thus — knit 4, wool over, knit 2 together ; repeat to the end of the row, knit 2 rows purl 3 rows, and cast off. For the bodice— begin at the back. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. cast on 30 stitches, and work the check pattern the same as the skirt, till you have 1 1 patterns. Then cast off 1 5 stitches, knit i pattern on the remaining 15 stitches, cast on 39 at the end you previously cast off and knit 3 patterns, cast off 24 stitches (always at the same end) ; this completes the shoulder strap. On the 30 stitches left knit 4 patterns, then work 2 ribs the same as at the skirt, then 36 rows of the open pattern, with 3 plain stitches each end, work 2 ribs as before, work 4 check patterns, cast on 24 stitches, work 3 patterns, cast off 39 stitches, work I pattern, cast on 15 stitches, work 11 patterns, and cast off. Sew the straps to the backs, sew the bodice on to the band, and sew up the skirt, leaving a placket hole. For the sleeve — cast on 30 stitches and work the check pattern, increasing i stitch at the end of every row till you have 49 stitches, work 2 patterns more, * knit 2 together at each end of the next row, work 6 rows without decreasing ; repeat from * till you have decreased to 39 stitches, work 3 patterns and cast off, sew the sleeves into the armholes, add a crochet edging all round the neck and cuffs thus — i double crochet 3 chain and 2 trebles all into the same stitch for 3 rows ; run ribbon into the band, neck and cuffs. Knitted lace to be sewn on all round the skirt, cast on 12 stitches. 1st row — slip i, knit 2, wool over, knit 2 together, wool over twice, knit 2 together, knit 5. 2nd row — slip i, knit 6, purl I, knit 2, wool over, knit 2 together, knit i. 3rd row — slip I, knit 2, wool over, knit 2 together, knit 2, wool over twice, knit 2 together, knit 4. 4th row— shp I, knit 5, purl i, knit 4, wool over, knit 3 together, knit i. sth row— slip i, knit 2, wool over, knit 2 together, knit 4, wool over twice, knit 2 together, knit 3. 6th row— slip i, knit 4, purl i,knit 6, wool over, knit 2 together, knit I. 7th row — slip i, knit 2, wool over, knit 2 together, knit 10. Sth row — cast off 3 stitches, slipping the ist, knit 8, wool over, knit 2 together, knit i. Begin again at the ist row. This frock is very pretty and light knitted in light blue Andalusian wool, when pins No. 12 should be used. INFANTS JACKET, WITH CROCHET BORDER. Use 2 bone needles. No. 12, and a fine bone crochet needle. This jacket is commenced at the bottom of the back, and is made in one piece, including sleeves. The material used is merino, fingering wool, or Andalu- sian, the colour is white, and 5 ozs. are required. For Back. Cast on 120 from * 19 times 4th row — * purl and 6th rows — stitches. 1 St row - 2nd and 3rd rows- * knit 3, purl 3, repeat 1st row. more. 3, knit 3, repeat from * 19 times more. 5th same as 4th row. Repeat these 6 rows 4 times more. 31st row — * knit 3, knit 2 together, repeat from * 9 times more, knit 4, knit 3 together, knit 4 together, knit 4 together, knit 3 together, knit 4, * knit 2 together, knit 3, repeat from * 9 times more. 32nd row — plain. 33rd row — knit 34, knit 2 together 6 times, make a stitch by putting wool over needle, knit 2 together 6 times, knit 34. 34th row — plain. 35th row — plain. There are now 81 stitches on needle. 36th row — * knit 3, purl 3, repeat from *. 37th row — * purl 3, knit 3, repeat from *. 38th row — same as 36th row. 39th row—** same as 36th row. 40th row — same as 37th row. 41st • row — same as 36th row. 42nd row — same as 36th row. 43rd row — same as 37th row. 44th row — same as 36th row. Repeat from ** 3 times more. Continue the pattern described in these 6 rows for the whole of jacket. 63rd row — at the end of each of the next 18 rows make a stitch thus ; — Put the 1st needle (that with the stitches on it) through the last stitch, knit i without takig the s'itch off the 2nd needle ; put the ist needle through the back of stitch left on needle, and knit it. When these 18 rows are worked, gussets will have been formed for the back of each sleeve. Cast on 45 stitches where the last stitch was made. 81st row — * knit 3, purl 3, repeat from *. Cast on 45 stitches. These stitches form the 2 sleeves. 82nd row — * purl 3, knit 3, repeat from *. Work 30 of these long rows, counting the 81st row as the 1st of them, i nth row — * knit 3, purl 3, repeat from * 10 times more. Cast off 57 stitches, * purl 3, knit 3, repeat from * 10 times more. 112th row — * purl 3, knit 3, repeat from * 10 times more. Cast on 30 stitches. 1 13th row—* purl 3, knit 3, repeat from *. Continue working until there are 60 rows in the sleeves. Cast off 45 stitches, beginning at the cuff, * purl 3, knit 3, repeat from *. 142nd row — * purl 3, knit 3, repeat from *. 143rd row— knit 2 together, work in pattern to end of row. Repeat these 2 rows 8 times more. There will now be 42 stitches on the needle ; work 30 rows on these 42 stitches. 190th and 191st rows plain. 192nd row — * knit 2, make i on the 3rd stitch as directed for the 63rd row, repeat from *. 193rd row — plain. 194th row — knit 56, make i on 57th stitch. 195th row — * knit 3, purl 3, repeat from *. Knit 29 more rows. Cast off. The 2nd side of the jacket is commenced by joining the wool at the neck, where the stitches were cast off, and repeating from the 2nd * in the iiith row. Pick up 117 stitches along the neck. Work 3 rows in the pattern. 4th row — * knit 4, put wool over needle, repeat from *. Work 3 more rows. Cast off. Sew up the sides and sleeves. For Border. Crochet I double, 5 long treble, alternately, into every 6th row of knitting down the fronts and round the cuffs, and into every 4th stitch round the neck and bottom of jacket. Fasten with a crochet chain of double wool and tassels, or with a narrow ribbon nm through the holes at the neck. PINCUSHION COVER. Materials required for cover and cushion : — 2 balls of Walter Evans's & Co.'s Maltese thread, ecru colour. No. 10, 2 steel knitting needles No. 15, standard wire gauge, i yard of crimson satin, 18 inches wide, iJ yards silk cord, to match satin in colour, a piece of white calico same size as the satin, and some bran to fill the cushion. The cover is knitted in 4 sections, which are sewn together to form a square, by lacing together, as it were, with a needle and some thread (same as the sections are knitted with), the open stitches or loops at the sides of the sections, taking care to have the pattern so placed, that the different parts may join exactly in their proper places. For the 1st section cast on 2 stitches, and knit in garter stitch, increasing i stitch at the beginning of each row (by throwing the thread round the needle betore knitting a stitch, which wiU give an open stitch at each side of the section) till there are 23 stitches on the needle, then knit 9 rows of I plain row, l purl row (alternately), then i plain row, I purl row, i plain row, i plain row, I purl row. There should be 37 stitches on the needle. Now work a stripe of 7 rows of holes, thus : 36th row — knit 3 plain stitches, * make a stitch, by putting thread round needle, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, and-pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit a stitch, repeat from * to end of row. 37th row — purl. 3Sth row — knit 2 plain stitches, and * make a stitch, slip i, knit i, and pass the shpped stitch over the knitted one, knit i plain, repeat from * to end of row ; end with 2 plain. 39th row — purl. 40th row — knit i plain stitch, and knit same as 36th row, to end of row. 41st row — purl. 42 nd row — same as 36th row. 43rd row — purl. 44th row — knit 3 plain, then same as 3Sth row, from * to *, and end with 2 plain stitches. 45th row — purl. 46th row — same as 45th row. 47th row — purl. 48th row — plain. 49th row — purl. There are now 53 stitches on needle. Now commence the bell patterns ; there should be 9 across the row. 50th row — purl 2 stitches, * make a stitch, by lifting the loop in the last row and knitting it, then puil 6 stitclies, repeat from * 8 times more, but end the row with 3 purl. 51st row — knit 3 stitches, * hft a loop and purl it, and U.J T'lTHE FANCY WORK-BASKET. «». the made stitch in last row, knit 6 plain, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with 3 plain instead of 6. 52nd row — purl 3 stitches, * raise a stitch same way as in 50th row, knit 2 plain, purl 6, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with 4 purl instead of 6. 53rd rowr— knit 4 plain, * raise a stitch and purl it, and the 3 next stitches, knit 6 plain, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with 4 plain instead of 6 plain. 54th row — purl 6, * raise a stitch, knit 4 plain, purl 6, repeat from * 8 times more, end row with 5 purl stitches instead of 6. 55th row — knit-5 plain stitches, * raise a stitch, and purl it, and the 5 raised stitches, knit 6 plain, repeat from * 8 times more ; end row with 5 plain stitches instead of 6. 56th row — purl 5 stitches, * cast off 6 stitches thus : slip i stitch, knit i stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat from * till 6 stitches are off (the 6 stitches cast off are the 6 raised stitches for the bell), purl 5 stitches, repeat from * ; end row with 4 purl instead of 5. 57th row — knit plain (61 stitches on needle). 58th row — com- mence 2nd row of bells, and work them same as ist row of bells, but there should be 10 instead of 9 bells in the row, and they should be worked exactly between the bella of ist row of bells. 65th row — knit plain. There should be 68 stitches on the needle. Then work a 3rd row of the bells same as before. There should be 1 1 bells across the row, and they should be exactly between the bells of last row of bells, and on the top of the ist row of bells. 73rd row — knit plain. There should be 77 stitches across the row. 74th row — in this row, commence a stripe of open work same as 1st stripe of open work, and work same as from 36th row to end of 43rd row. Cast off and knit 3 more sections exactly the same. Make up the cushion, and when finished and the cover sewn on, and the cord put round where the cover was sewed, and 2 small loops of the cord made at each corner, shape it by taking a very strong thread and long needle, and draw the thread through the corner, about 24 inches from the point, and then tie the thread very tight in a firm knot. Shape the 3 other corners in the same way, taking care that the tie of the thread comes close to the cord, and as little seen as possible. LADY'S S^.IALL WRAP OR MUFFLER. Materials required: — Three ounces of white and one ounce of blue (pale) Andalusian wool, 2 bone knitting needles No. 8, and 2 needles No. 7. Cast on with the blue wool on needles No. 7 (to make this row elastic) 128 stitches, 10 stitches for each pattern, and 8 over for the edges, 4 stitches on each side, which are always knitted plain like a garter. With needles No. 8 knit ist row, slip ist stitch, knit 3 plain, knit 2 together, *knit 3 plain, make a stitch (by putting wool over the needle) knit i plain, make a stitch, knit 3 plain, slip a stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitches, 'epeat from* 9 times more, and end row thus: knit 3 plain, make a stitch, knit i plain, make a stitch, knit 3 plain, knit 2 together, knit 4 plain. 2nd row — Knit plain. Repeat these 2 rows 11 times more. 25th row — Knit plain, and the?! commence " Pearl Pattern," these are 4 stitches in each pattern,and4for each edge, ist row — Slip 1st stitch, knit 3 plain, * bring the wool forward, and purl 3 together, put the wool back and knit i plain stitch, don't take off the 146 stitch, but throw over the wool and knit the same stitch again — that makes 3 stitches in i. Repeat from * and end the row with 4 plain. 2nd row— Slip ist stitch, knit 3 plain, purl all but the last 4 stitches, which knit plain. 3rd row — Slip the ist stitch, knit 3 plain, *knit I plain stitch, don't take the stitch off, but throw the wool over and knit the same stitch again ; this makes 3 stitchesin i ;bringwoolforward, purl 3 together, put the wool back, repeat from*, end row with knit 4 plain. 4th row — Slip ist stitch, knit 3 plain, purl all but the last 4 stitches, which knit plain. Repeat from ist row twice more. Break off blue wool and join on white, knit i plain row, and then work " Cockle pattern." There are 6 stitches in each pattern, ist row — Slip 1st stitch, knit 3 plain,* knit 5 stitches together, then make 5 stitches into i stitch thus— knit i stitch, don't take it off the needle, throw over the wool, and knit another stitch, don't take it off needle, throw over the wool again and knit a stitch; that makes 5 stitches, Repeat from* to end of row, all but the 4 edge stitches, which knit plain. 2nd row — Slip i stitch, knit 4 plain, purl to end of row, all but 5 stitches, which knit plain. 3rd row — Knit plain. 4th row — Same as 2nd row. 5th row — Same as 3rd row. 6th row — Same as 2nd row. 7th row — Slip ist stitch, knit 4 plain,* knit 5 stitches in I same way as in ist row, knit 5 stitches together, repeat from *; end row with 5 plain stitches. Sth row— Slip ist stitch, knit 4 plain, purl all the rest of row, except 5 stitches at end, which knit plain, gth row — Slip 1st stitch, knit remainder plain. loth row — Same as 8th row. I ith row — Same as 9th row. 12th row — Same as 8th row; this row ends the ist "Cockle" pattern. 13th row — Same as ist row. 14th row — Same as 2nd row. 1 5th row — Knit plain, and break off white wool, join on blue and work 4 patterns of the " Pearl" pattern, then change wool again, and with the white knit the "Cockle" pattern 34 times, then join on the blue wool, and knit the 2nd end of muffler to correspond with the ist end, and cast off with needles No. 7. This wrap knitted with the same needles and Shetland wool, working the white centre piece longer, makes an elegant and light cloud. The wrap in Andalusian wool measures 48 inches by 23 inches. DRAWERS FOR BOY OF SIX. These drawers are made on 2 needles in the simplest manner possible. The knitting is rather coarse, in consequence of which there is very little work in them. The quantity of wool required is 4 ozs. of 4 ply fingering wool. The needles used are No. 10, bone ; either scarlet or light grey wool is most strongly recommended for washing. Cast on 76 stitches and work 2 plain, 2 purl for 12 rows. 13th row — * knit 2, make i by lifting a loop from the row below and knitting it as a stitch, knit till only 2 stitches remain ; make i, knit 2. 14th, 15th and 1 6th rows — plain. Repeat from* 15 times more. There will now be 106 stitches. 77th, 78th and 79th rows — plain. 80th row — * knit 2 together, plain to end. 8 ist, 82nd, 83rd rows plain. Repeat from * 18 times more. The edge with narrowing:s is the back of the drawers. 153rd row — must begin at back, knit 45, turn back, knit 45. 155th row — knit 40, turn back, knit 40. 157th row — knit 35, turn back, knit 35. 159th row— knit 30, turn, back, knit 30. i6ist row — knit 25, turn back, knit 25. 163rd row — knit 20, turn back, knit 20. 165th row — knit 15, turn back, knit 15. 167th row^ — knit 10, turn back, knit 10. 169th row — knit 5, turn back, knit 5. 171st row — * knit 8, knit 2 together. Repeat from *. 172nd row — cast off. Knit the second leg in the same way. For gusset — cast on 12 stitches. ist row — plain. 2nd row — knit 2 together, knit 10. 3rd row — knit 2 together, knit 9. 4th row — knit 2 together, knit 8. 5th row — knit 2 together, knit 7. 6th row— knit 2 together, knit 6. 7th row— knit 2 together, knit 5. 8 th row — knit 2 together, knit 4. 9th row — knit 2 together, knit 3. I Gth row— knit 2 together, knit 2; knit 2 together. Break off. Sew up the legs to where the last increase was made and sew the two backs together. Place the beginning and ending of first row of THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. gusset where the seams in the legs end, and sew across. Sew the sides of the gussets to the two fronts for ten rows up from the seams of the legs. Finish off the drawers at the waist with a calico band in which work the necessary buttonholes. Four buttonholes are usually required, besides the one by which the drawers are fastened in front. PRETTY EDGINGS. No. I. Cast on 17 Stitches. 1st row — slip i,knit2,make i, slip I, narrow, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 3, make i, narrow, knit I, make i, narrow, make I, narrow, make I, knit I. 2nd row — plain knitting. 3rd row — slip I, knit 2, make i, narrow, make I, narrow, knit I, narrow, make I, knit 3, make I, narrow, make I, narrow, make i, knit i. 4th row — plain knitting. 5th row — slip I, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit i, make i, slip i, narrow, pass the slipped one over ; make i, knit 5, make i, narrow, make i, narrow, make i, knit i. 6th row — plain knitting. 7th row— slip I, knit 2, make i, narrow, make i, narrow, make i, knit I, make i, narrow, knit 5, make i, narrow, make i, narrow, make i, knit i. 8th row — cast off 5, knit the rest plain. ■ No. II. Cast on 10 Stitches. 1st row — slip I, knit i, make i, narrow, make i, narrow, make 3, narrow, make i, purl 3 together. 2nd row — make i, purl 2 together, knit 2, purl i, then knit I and purl I both in the next loop, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit 2. 3rd row — slip I, knit I, make I, narrow, knit I, make I, narrow, knit 4, make I, purl 2 together. 4th row — make i, purl 2 together, knit 5, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2. 5th row — slip I, knit I, make i, narrow, knit 2, make l, narrow, knit 3, make i, purl 2 together. 6th row — make i, purl 2 together, knit 4, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 2. 7th row— slip I, knit i, make i, narrow, knit 3, make i, narrow, knit 2, make i, purl 2 together. 8th row — make i, purl 2 together, knit 3, purl I, knit 4, purl i, knit 2. 9th row — slip I, knit i, make I, narrow, knit 4, make i, narrow, knit I, make i, purl 2 together, loth row— make i, purl 2 together, knit 2, purl I, knit S, purl I, knit 2. nth row — slip I, knit i, make i, narrow, knit 5, make i, narrow, make i, purl 2 together. 12th row — cast off 3, then take the stitch on the right hand needle off upon the left hand needle, then make i, purl 2 together, knit 5, purl i, knit 2. No. III. Cast on 13 Stitches. 1st r o w — ' slip I, knit 2, make i, nar- row, make i, narrow, make i,narrow,make 2 , narrow, make 2, nar- row. 2nd row —knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 9. 3rd row — plain knitting. 4th row — purled. 5th row — slip i, knit 2, make i, narrow, make i, narrow, make i, narrow, make 2, narrow, make 2, narrow, make 2, narrow. 6th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i,knit 2, purl i, knit 9. 7th row — plain knitting. 8th row — cast off 5, purl 12. No. IV. Cast on 9 Stitches. 1st row — slip I, knit i, make 2, narrow, make 2, narrow, make 2, narrow, knit l. 2nd row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2. 3rd row — slip i, knit the rest plain. 4th row — knit plain. 5th row— slip i, knit i, make 2, narrow, knit 8. 6th row — knit 10, purl I, knit 2. 7th row — slip i, knit 12. 8th row — knit plain. 9th row — slip i, knit i, make 2, narrow, make 2, narrow, knit 7. loth row — knit 9, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2. nth row — . shp I, knit 14. I2th row— slip i, knit 6, then slip 6*of the 7 stitches on the right hand needle, one after the other over the last knitted one, you will then have that one only on the right hand needle ; knit 8. No. V. Cast on 10 'Stitches. 1st row — knit 3, make i, narrow, make 2, narrow, make 2 narrow, knit i. 2nd row — make i, knit 3, purl I, knit 2, purl i knit 2, make i, narrow, knit l. 3rd row — knit 3, make I, narrow knit 8. 4th row— cast off 3, knit 6, make l, narrow, knit I. No. VI. Cast on 9 Stitches. 1st row — slip I, knit 2, make i and narrow 3 times. 2nd row- — knit I, then knit i and purl i, both in the made stitch of last row, knit I, knit I and purl i again in next made stitch, knit i, knit I and purl i in next made one, knit 3. 3rd, 4th and 5th rows — plain knitting. 6th row — cast off 3, knit 8. THE CREEVE EMBROIDERY. This effective and easy work looks extremely well in children's dress pinafores, pincushions, fichus, collars, &c. The best book or Saccarella muslin should be used. Most crewe' work patterns can be worked in this kind of embroiden,-, but patterns with large leaves and simple flowers look best ; ivy, jessamine, mountain ash, harts tongue fern are all particularly suitable. WTien you have decided on your pattern, trace it on the glazed side of stiff, pink roll muslin. This can easily be accomplished by laying the roll muslin over your pattern and holding it against the window. It is better to trace it in ink, as pencil sometimes soils the work. Transfer patterns have the same defect. When the pattern is perfectly dry lay the book muslin over it and tack it carefully outside each leaf ot the pattern. You cannot tack it too closely, and a little time spent in this way is amply repaid by the well defined outlines of the 147 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. work when finished. Now take Coats's best mending cotton No. lo, and a crewel needle. Commence by inserting the needle through the book muslin, but not through the roll muslin, about the middle of a leaf, bring it out on right hand side of the stalk just where the leaf begins ; insert it again on right hand side of the leaf close to where you brought it out, bring it out on opposite side of the leaf close to the stalk, insert it on left hand side of leaf, close to where you last brought it out ; do not draw the thread too tightly, but leave a very tiny loop between the stitches ; never put the needle into the roll muslin ; when you work to point of leaf, back-stitch down the centre, passing the needle and thread under the stitches which you have already worked, they should be lying along the underneath side of the book muslin quite close to each other, and going straight across the leaf. Leave a short space between each backstitch on the right side. This forms the veining of the leaf. The stalks and tendrils are done in the same way as the veining. When fastening off an old thread, or joining a new one, run it along a veining underneath the book muslin, so that it will not show on the right side. The flowers are worked in the same way as the leaves. When the pattern is all worked, cut the tacking threads, taking care not to pull the muslin. Look at all the places where the thread joins in the embroidery, and if any of the ends seem insecure stitch them with a fine needle and thread. You can either hem the edges of the pieces of work by a row of back- stitch to match the veinings and stalks or scallop it in fine embroidery cotton. If the hem with stitching is preferred, use the cotton with which you did the embroidery. Lace is a pretty addition to the edge. If the best materials are used this embroidery washes well. Coats's or Neilson & Co's superior three fold mending cotton No. lo is the most satisfactory. The same pattern when traced on roll muslin can be used a great many times. TAM O' SHANTER CAP FOR INFANT. This pretty and useful little cap is worked in tricot crochet, and can be made in either white or coloured wool. A stylish little cap can be made from this pattern to match a dress or pelisse of two colours. Navy blue and red look very well together if you work the plain stripes of cap in navy, and the raised sections, rosettes, and tuft in crimson. The band and chin strap should be in navy. If for a young child the cap looks very pretty with a lace border in front and swansdown round the band. Satin strings should then be substituted for the crochet rosettes and chin strap, i^ ozs. of Berlin fingering wool and a tricot crochet needle will be required. The size of the needle must depend on whether you crochet loosely or tightly. The chain at beginning of cap should measure about 6 inches. All through this pattern the stitches are 148 ■■■ iito;'- '■■"■?''' ' ■•■■'■ l^m ^H m^ S WllttatlH* ^^' ' ' . ^^ , • ^j;.. [^^K^-^ sIk; ' ■ '^SbBb\ ! .- ^^^^ M raised by drawing the wool through the hack loop of stitch in preceding row. Plain stripe — commence by a chain of 28 stitches, raise 25 stitches in tricot crochet, leaving 2 stitches of chain, work back as in ordinary tricot, raise 25 stitches from back loops of stitches in preceding row and 2 stitches from the 2 chain stitches left at end of last row, work back, * * raise 25 stitches and work back. Raised section : — ist row — raise 4 stitches, making 5 stitches on needle. 2nd row — draw wool through 2 stitches on needle, 5 chain to form raised loop, draw 5th chain stitch through next tricot stitch, work to end. 3rd row — raise 2 stitches from back of last row, raise i stitch from ist chain stitch of raised loop and i stitch from ist tricot stitch of last row, raise 3 stitches from back of last row of plain stripe. There should now be 8 stitches on needle. 4th row — draw wool through 2 stitches on needle, * 5 chain for raised loop, draw 5th chain stitch through next tricot stitch, work I tricot stitch, repeat from * twice more. There should be 3 raised loops in this row. 5th row — raise i stitch, raise 2 stitches, between each raised loop (always raising them from back of last row). When you come to last raised loop of last row, raise I stitch from ist chain stitch, i stitch from 1st tricot stitch of last row, and i stitch from last row of plain stripe. There should be 9 stitches on needle. 6th row — draw wool through 2 stitches, * 5 chain, draw 5th chain stitch through next tricot stritch, work i tricot stitch ; repeat from * twice more. You should now have 3 raised loops in this row. Work i tricot stitch. 7th row — raise 2 stitches, raise 2 stitches between each raised loop of last row, raise i stitch from ist chain stitch of ist raised loop, raise l stitch from ist tricot stitch of last row, raise 3 stitches from last row of plain stripe. 8th row — same as 4th row, only having 5 raised loops. 9th row — same as 5th row, only having 13th stitches on needle. 10th row — same as 6th row, only having 5 raised loops, nth row — same as 7th row, only having 16 stitches on needle. 12th row — same as 8th row, but have 7 raised loops. 13th row — same as 5th row, but have 17 stitches on needle. 14th row— same as 6th row, but have 7 raised loops. 15th row — same as 7th row, but have 20 stitches on needle. 1 6th row — same as 8th row, but have 9 raised loops. 17th row — same as 5th row, but have 21 stitches on needle. i8th row — same as 6th row, but have 9 raised loops. 19th row— same as 7th row, but have 24 stitches on needle. 20th row — same as 8th row, but have ir raised loops. 21st row — same as 5th row, but at end of row, raise 2 stitches (instead of i si itch) from last row of plain stripe. There should be 26 stitches on needle. 22nd row — com- mence 2nd plain stripe by working back as in ordinary tricot. 23rd row— raise 24 stitches, put needle through end stitch of last row, and through end stitch of last row of preceding plain stripe and draw wool through them as if they were only i stitch, raise 2 stitches on 2nd row of preceding plain stripe. There should now be 28 stitches on needle. Work back and repeat from * * eight times more. In last section omit 21st, 22nd and 23rd ro\vs. Now sew up cap on wrong side and draw in the points of sections till they all meet in the centre and lie quite flat. For band always raise the fro)it loop of stitches as in ordinary tricot. Make a chain of 6 stitches, raise 5 stitches, draw wool through edge stitch of centre row of plain stripe, work back, raise 5 stitches, draw wool through next row of plain stripe, and continue in this way all round cap. In raised sections only draw wool through every 2nd edge stitch. There should be 8 tricot rows in band for each section of cap, and 72 tricot rows round entire cap. Jain the band up by crocheting the ist and last rows together on wrong side. (A "tricot row" is formed by first raising stitches along preceding row and then working back). Now make raised cord down each plain stripe thus — work a double crochet stitch into each loop of stitch on right side of centre row of each plain stripe, continue in same way down band, work a row of double crochet round lower edge of band on right side, and also along band where it is joined to the crown. For chin strap — make 6 chain, and work in ordinary tricot till you have 45 tricot rows. Rosettes for ears — make a chain of 4 stitches, join it with a single stitch, * i double stitch into loop formed by 4 chain, draw wool through loop formed by 4 chain, as if you were going to make another double stitch, work 5 chain, finish double stitch by drawing last stitch of 5tli chain through stitch on needle. (The loop formed by the 5 chain will be called a " chain loop.") Repeat from * 3 times more. 2nd round — double stitch into ist double stitch of last row, catching both sides of stitch, * make a chain loop in 2nd double stitch of last row, work a double stitch into 2nd double stitch of last row ; repeat from * all round. There should be 8 chain loops in this round. 3rd round — * i double stitch into double stitch of last round, chain loop into next stitch of last round ; repeat from * all round. There should be 8 chain loops in this lound. 4th round — same as 2nd round, having 16 chain loops. 5th round — same as 3rd round, having 16 chain loops, 6th round— same as 4th, having FANCY WORK-BASKET. -YfT-fiim i 1 1 27 chain loops. Fasten off, an4 sew fhe rosettes to chin strap, so that they cover the child's ears, 'Fqr tuft — take a piece of card- board, 2 inches across, and wind the wool round it 120 times, slip out the cardboard, tie the tuft firmly with either strong cotton or fine cord, cut it evenly all over and sew to the top of cap; sew on chin strap in proper place. INFANT'S DRESS IN DOUBLE CRO ET. Materials : About ^ lb. of double Berlin wool, 5 yards of lace to pleat under the Vandykes at the bottom of skirt, in sleeves and neck, and i^ yards of ribbon for a sash. * Make a chain of 6, make i single in the 3rd from the hook, i single ii „ ji _ ■ — ■ in the 4th from the hook. Repeat lfiP'1(f'Trfr*TJW^!V from * until you can count 69 picots. / \ \ You have now a long chain with picots all the way along it ; join in a round, being careful that you do not twist the chain, and have some picots with right side and some with the wrong side out. It does not matter which way so long as they are all the same way, land you have a right and wrong [side to your work. Now work a 'row of double crochet. You will "'"~ find 2 chain between each picot, and you can work i or 2 double crochet as you may find necessary over each picot. By working i double crochet over each picot and I in each of the 2 chain between the picots you get 3 double crochet over each picot and the chain between, so you should have 207 chain in the whole round. During the round make i extra double crochet, as you need 208 chain for the complete pattern. 2nd round — * i double crochet in each one of the next 5 loops, 3 double crochet in the 5th (that is the next), i double crochet in each one of the next 5 loops. Miss 2 loops and repeat from *. You have used 13 loops (counting the 2 you have missed) to each Vandyke, and you will find that you have 16 times 13 in the 208 stitches which you made in the round, so that you will have 16 Vandykes. The picots you made in the chain row make an edge for the Vandykes (we should have mentioned this before, but omitted to); join the round. 3rd round — you must now turn your v.ork so as to leave the inside of the petticoat towards you, and this will enable you to turn back, and work the next round in Russian crochet by taking up the back loop of the previous row. Having turned your work, miss a loop, * i double crochet in each of the next 5 double crochet, taking up the back loop of each double crochet, 3 double crochet in the next loop (which should be the middle one of the 3 which you worked in one loop in the previous row), i double crochet in the back loop of each of the next 5 double crochet, miss 2 loops, and repeat from * ; join at the end of round. 4th round — you held the work with the wrong side towards you in the last round ; in this round you hold it with the right side towards you, so that, in fact, although you join the rounds, you work backwards and forwards in order to make the ribs of Russian crochet. Having turned your work so that you have the right side towards you, miss I loop, and repeat from the ist * in the 3rd round. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rounds until you have done about 1 2 ridges. You have 16 Vandykes in the next round ; you decrease to shape the skirt ; you decrease from 16 Vandykes to 12 in the following ways — work I Vandyke, and then miss i whole vandyke, then work on the next just in the usual way, then miss a whole vandyke again, then work on the next in the usual way. You have now missed 2 Vandykes ; now you go on doing the rest of the round in the usual way until there are only 4 Vandykes left between where you are working and the end of the round. Now miss i whole vandyke, work the next vandyke, miss the next, and work the last. Be care- ful when missing a vandyke to draw the wool pretty tight, so as not to leave the work baggy. The missed vandykes are pleated underneath, and sewn very carefully on the wrong side, so that the fastening of the pleats does not show ; turn the pleats towards the middle of the back where you make the join, so that it makes a large box-pleat in the back. Be careful through this narrowing and missing a vandyke always to work the 3 that you make in the centre of each scallop in the centre i of the 3 you make in the previous row. You can, if you prefer it, crochet the pleats in place instead of sewing by fastening them in the next round, ist round after narrowing — work round in the usual way, but on 12 Vandykes instead of the 16. 2nd — work round as before, still turning the work inside and out, so as to keep all the ridges quite straight and regular, ist row — in this round you do not join the work, but henceforth work back and forth, so as to leave a placket hole. Work 4 Vandykes as usual, for the 5th vandyke, after missing the 2 loops as usual, * work i double crochet in the next loop, take the 2 next loops together — that is, take up both of the loops on your needle before making the double crochet, i double crochet in the next, and a double crochet in the next ; this brings you to the centre stitch, or it should do ; work the 3 double crochet as usual in the middle loop, I double crochet in each of the next 2 loops, take the next 2 loops together, I double in the next. This finishes your vandyke. You had 13 stitches; you now have decreased to 11, miss 2 loops and repeat from * for 3 more vandykes. This will shape the front of the skirt a little. You will have 4 vandykes left before you finish the row. Work them in the usual way, without decreasing. After this you do not join the rounds any more, but leave an opening to put the dress on — as we mentioned in the beginning of the round. 2nd row — work across plainly as usual without any decreasings. 3rd row — like the 2nd. 4th row — like the 2nd. 5th and 6th rows — like the 2nd row. 7th row — you have 12 vandykes, decrease in the 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 8th, loth and nth vandykes. That will be 12 decreasings in the whole row, 2 in each of 6 vandykes. Decrease as described in the ist row when beginning the placket hole — that is, by putting your hook through the back loops of 2 double crochet, makmg the decreasings come evenly on each side of the centre 3. This com- pletes the shaping of the skirt ; work back and forth, back and forth, until you can count 17 ridges on the right side of the work. You now commence to make the bodice. Wort the backs first. For the ist back work back and forth on 3 vandykes which lie at one side of the placket hole till you can count 23 ridges, or 24, if you wish a long waist. The counting is begun from the bottom of the skirt. Work the second back on the 3 vandykes on the other side of the placket hole back and forth in ridges. For the front work back and forth in ridges on the 6 vandykes that are in front. When the front is the same height as the back or 2 ridges shorter, you must make the shoulder and small sleeve. The shoulder strap is worked on 6 stitches, and the sleeve is made in with it by a little easy shaping. Continue to work in ridges on 6 stitches, a nd every time you come to the outer edge of the sleeve part increase a stitch, that will be every other row. Keep the back edge of the shoulder and sleeve straight ; shape the edge that falls over the shoulder and arm. Thus you increase i stitch every ridge, and will have about 9 or 10 when you have done 8 ridges and a half of the shoulder and sleeve. When you have done the 3 and a half ridges you must decrease a stitch every other row at the end of the row falling over the shoulder, to make it correspond with the side where you increased it, and decrease it in the next 3 and a half ridges till you have 6 stitches and 7 ridges. Do the other side in the same way, then sew up the sides of the waist till the sleeve opening is the right size. Edging for round neck and sleeves, and down each back and round placket hole — fasten on the wool, work 6 chain, i single stitch into the 3rd loop from the hook, i single into the 4th from the hook, miss i loop of the dress, i double crochet into the next loop of the dress, * 6 chain, 1 single into each of the 3rd and 4th from the hook, miss a space equal to a loop, i double crochet into the next loop of the dress ; repeat from *. If the sleeves are not as long as you want them, do a few rows of double crochet the same pattern as the rest of the work. You can, how- ever, work the sleeve round and round if you like, as it will not be quite so bulky as the ridges, but you can make the work in httle Vandykes on the same principle as you have done the skirt. Work the edging given above for the last round all round the neck, the sleeves as before mentioned, down each side of the back and placket hole.. To finish :— pleat the lace in a pretty ruffle under the Vandykes of the skirt and round the neck and sleeves. Run a ribbon through the holes round the neck if necessarj-. Lay a ribbon under the places where you sew the buttons on at the back; make your button holes by pulling the wool on one side and sewing it round; put ribbon or lace rosettes on the shoulder, and add a sash tied in .front, or at the side, or back, as fancy may dictate. We have not mentioned colour ; the model was pale blue. ^i^k brown, cardinal, or maroon are all pretty; judge by the child s complexion, and the probable use to which the dress will be put. PETTICOAT WITH BODICE. To FIT A Child from 2 to 4 Years old. Materials required : — 3 ozs. of grey Scotch fingering, 2 ozs. scarlet, 3 yards of grey staybinding to match the grey wool, 2 bone hooks No. 6 and 8. Commence with grey wool for the bodice, by making 33 chain rather loosely with No. 8 hook, turn, missing 4 149 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. chain, and work 30 treble stitches altogether for i row. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, and work in same way for 10 rows backwards and forwards, taking up the back stitch in every row to form ribs of treble, nth row — work back in same way for 27 stitches to decrease a little for armhole. 12th row — turn and work the 30 stitches again for 19 rows, then decrease again for the other arm- hole by leaving 3 stitches unworked; next row turn with 5 chain, and take up the 30 stitches again for the other back, and work 10 rows in same way, break off wool. For the shoulder strap begin at the top of the 9th row by making 3 chain, and do 5 treble stitches across the gth and loth rows; work backwards and forwards for 14 rows or 7 ribs of treble; fasten to the other side of front merely leaving the row between which you decreased in, now work the other shoulder strap in precisely the same way. For edge to form a small sleeve fasten on the scarlet wool, and work 2 treble, I chain for 17 times round the inside of shoulder strap. 2nd row — 4 chain, i double crochet into every hole ; this completes the sleeve, do the other sleeve to correspond. Make an edge round the neck in the same way, by working 7 sets of 2 treble, i cham across the back, then miss over one row without any chain to begin the shoulder, this is to form a square neck ; there should be 14 sets of 2 treble, i chain over each shoulder ; pass over I row in same way at end of shoulder to front, to iorm the square front; there should be 13 sets of 2 treble, i chain across the front. Do the other shoulder and back to correspond with each other, then do the 2nd row of 4 chain, i double crochet into every hole, same as for the sleeve ; fasten off neatly, this completes the bodice. For the skirt, fasten on the grey wool and make 5 chain to turn ; work 80 treble stitches along the waist of bodice, which is 2 treble into every row of the bodice. 2nd row — i chain, i treble between each treble of the previous row. 3rd row — take the coarser hook and work in same way. 4th row — same. 5th row — same. 6th row — same. 7th row — same. Now join this row by a shp stitch, this finishes the placket hole, as every row must now be joined. Sth row — make a chain of 3 and work 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into the ist hole, i treble into the 3rd treble of previous row, then 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into next hole, missing i treble; re- peat all round the petticoat in same way, when there should be 28 patterns; join, do 3 rows like this in exactly the same place as previous row, and i treble into the same stitch of treble in last row; this forms a stem between each pattern; now do 3 row."; in precisely the same way in scarlet, 3 more rows in grey, 3 more in scarlet, with 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble, this makes it a little larger round the bottom. Now work a scallop of 9 long treble into the hole of 2 chain in previous row, i double crochet into the treble stitch of previous row, repeat 9 long treble in the hole and I double crochet in treble stitch all round the bottom, then fasten off neatly drawing in the ends of the wool Then for the strings to fasten this little petticoat by, you run the stay binding into every other hole, round the neck, leaving ends long enough to tie ; run the binding into every 3rd hole round the waist — that is to say, leave 2 holes between, when this very useful petticoat will be finished. 150 CHILD'S PETTICOAT, With Bodice, in Crochet Tricoter. This pretty little petticoat is worked in tricot stitch in salmon pink and white Berlin fingering wool. It is very warm and com- fortable, and is the size for a child about two years of age. A medium sized bone crochet needle should be used. Make a chain of 47 stitches with the pink wool, and work from the ist to the 4th row in tricot. 5th row — work another with the white wool. 6th row (also in white) — turn without working the 4 last stitches. 7th row — omit the last 8 stitches. Sth row — omit the last 12 stitches. This forms a gore. Repeat these 8 rows 1 2 times more, always doing 4 plain rows with pink wool, and the 4 rows which form the gore in white wool. Then join for 30 stitches from the bottom. Work with the white wool a treble stitch into each row of tricot along the top of the petticoat. The Bodice. Make a chain of 32 in pink wool, ist to 3rd rows — tricot in pink wool 4th to 6th rows — tricot in white wool. 7th to 9th rows — tricot in pink. loth to 12th rows — tricot in white. 13th to 14th rows — tricot in pink. 15th row — work in pink 17 stitches, turn. Then commence in the 7th stitch from the end to work 5 stitches, turn. Fasten on the white wool, and work 4 stitches, turn, then 2 stitches, turn, then 7 stitches, turn, make a chain of 8 and fasten off. This forms the shoulder. i6th and 17th rows — commencing at the beginning of the rows, work 16 stitches with the white wool. i8th row — I stitch into each of the ist 15 stitches, and 2 stitches into the 1 6th stitch, before turning put the needle through the last stitch of the 8 chain, and draw the wool so as to join it. 19th row — with the pink wool work 17 into the 17 stitches of last row, 8 into the 8 chain, and 7 into the 7 stitches on the shoulder. 20th and 21st rows — tricot with the pink wool. 22nd to 24th rows — tricot with the white. 25th to 27th rows — tricot with the pink. 28th to 30th rows — tricot with the white. 31st to 33rd rows — tricot with the pink. 34th to 36th rows — tricot with the white. 37th to 39th rows — tricot with the pink. 40th to 42nd rows— tricot with the white. 43rd to 45th rows — tricot with the pink. 46th row — tricot with the white 17 stitches, turn. 47th and 48th rows — 16 stitches, turn. For the shoulder — commence with the white wool at the 7th stitch from the end to work 5 stitches, turn, then 4 stitches, turn, then 2 stitches, turn. With the pink wool work 7 stitches of tricot, then 8 chain, fasten off. 49th row — with the pink v/ool work 15 tricot stitches into the 1st 15 of the 48th row, and 2 into the i6th stitch. Before turning catch in the last of the 8 chain. 5°'^ 3-"^ S'^t rows —with the pink wool work 32 tricot stitches. 52nd to 54th rows — tricot with the white wool. 55th to 57th rows — tricot with the pink wool. 58th to 60th rows— tricot with the white wool. 6ist to 63rd rows — tricot with the pink wool, fasten off. With the pink wool crochet the body and skirt together in single stitch, and work a row of double stitch down each side of the placket and the back of the bodice, also round the neck. P'or the border round the skirt — work 6 treble stitches between the 1st and 2nd rows, and i double between the 3rd and 4th rows in each stripe. With finer white wool work 6 treble stitches into i, miss i, i double, miss 1,6 treble ; repeat this all round the neck. Work a row of double stitch round each of the armholes and put an edging round them the same as for the neck. To make a cord for the waist — crochet a chain of pink and white wool together. Run it through the treble stitches at the top of the skirt, add a tassel made of both wools to each end of the cord. The cord round the neck cannot be so thick, so it must be made of single pink wool, but the tassels may be made as for the waist cord, of both colours. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. INFANT'S JACKET, In TricOT Stitch with fxtremfly pretty Border. Materials : — 3 ozs. of white alliance fingering or Berlin fingering wool, and 1 oz. of deep salmon- pink wool of the same quality ; two crochet hooks are required, one of medium size for the tricot stitch, and one a good deal coarser for the bor- der. There are 5 pieces in the jacket, back, 2 fronts, and 2 sleeves. For right front : cast on 23 stitches in chain stitch. 1st row — take up the 2nd loop, draw the wool through, repeat this on every loop. Work back thus : draw the wool through the last loop, then draw the wool through 2 loops at a time to the end. These 2 rows are to be counted as i row throughout the jacket. Work 5 more rows. 7th row — work till there are 8 loops on the needle, decrease by taking up 2 loops together, then finish the row. 8th row — same as 7th row. Work 8 more plain rows. 1 6th row — raise 17 loops (which make 18 loops on needle) ; finish row on these. Work 8 more rows on these stitches. 25th row — raise 7 loops, decrease once, raise loops till 2 remain, decrease. 26th row — same as 25th row. 27th row — raise loops till 2 remain, decrease, break off wool. For back: make 45 chain stitches, raise 43 loops; finish row. Work 5 more rows. 7th row — raise 7 loops, decrease, raise loops till 10 remain, decrease; finish row. 8th row — same as 7th row. Work 8 more rows, break off wool. 16th row — begin to work on 4th loop of last row, raise loops till 3 remain, which leave unworked ; finish upw. Work 8 more rows on these stitches. 25th row — decrease, raise 6 loops, decrease, raise till 9 remain, decrease, raise 6 loops, decrease. 26th row — same as 25th row. 27th row — decrease, raise loops till 2 remain, decrease; break off wool. For left front : make 23 chain stitches. Work 6 rows as in right front. 7th lOw — raise II loops, decrease; finish row. 8th row — raise 10 loops, decrease; finish row. Work 8 more rows. 16th row — begin to work on 4th loop of last row ; finish row. Work 8 more rows. 25th row— decrease, raise 6 loops, decrease; finish row. 26th row — same as 25th row. 27th row — decrease, finish row, break off wool, sew up the sides and shoulders. For sleeve: make 25 chain stitches, raise 23 loops, work 26 rows, sew up the sleeves and sew them into the jacket, beginning at the seam, which should be placed exactly above side seam. The border is to be worked round the cuffs, neck and body of jacket. Begin at top of left front and work thus with coarse crochet hook, in the following loop stitch: ist row — * in ist stitch of edge of front work I double with pink wool, put tiie needle through both sides of the next stitch and draw the wool through. There are now 2 loops on the needle; on the loop last made work 3 chain, draw the wool through the 2 loops on needle. Repeat from * all round body of jacket, including the neck and cuffs. 2nd and 3rd rows — with white wool, same as ist row, working loop stitch in the double stitch of last row. These rows are not continued along the neck, only round body and cuffs of the jacket. 4th row — same as 3rd row, to be worked round the entire jacket. 5th row — with pink wool, work i double stitch, miss i, make 5 long trebles into the next stitch of 4th row, miss 2 stitches on 4th row. Repeat from * round entire jacket. A long treble is made as follows : — put the wool twice round needle, put the needle through the next stitch of 4th row, draw the wool through, work off 2 loops at a time. For strings : with 3 strands of pink wool work a chain necessary for neck, run it in and out through the border, make 2 little tassels and fasten them to the ends of the string, make a second string for the waist, pass it in and out through the loops on the right side of the 9th row from the bottom of jacket. LITTLE BOY'S COLLAR. Materials : — 22 inches of antimacassar braid, i skein of crochet cotton No. 24, crochet needle of suitable size. Hem the braid neatly at each end so that it will finish off with a complete medallion. Commence by working 2 treble stitches into the first loop of the first medallion, * 2 chain, 2 treble into each loop of the medallion, 2 chain, i double over the bar between the medallion. Repeat from * till you come to the last loop of the last medallion. Round the end of the braid work 7 chain, i single into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 2 chain, i treble into the braid, 7 chain, i single into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 3 chain, i treble into the braid. 2nd row (to be worked on the opposite side of the braid) — 3 chain, i treble into each loop of the medallion, 3 chain, i double over the bar. Con- tinue this to the end of the row. Across the end, 3 chain, i treble into the braid, 3 chain, i treble into the braid, 7 chain, i single into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 2 chain, i treble into the braid. 3rd row — 7 chain, i single into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 2 chain, i treble into the first treble stitch of the ist row, 7 chain, i sinsff? into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 2 chain, 1 double into the 2 chain stitches between the first and second pillars formed by the treble stitches in the first row, 7 chain, i single into the 3rd of the 7 chain, 2 chain, i double between the second and third pillars, and so on till you come to the last two pillars in the medallion. * 3 chain, I double between the first and second pillars of the next medallion, 7 chain, i single into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 2 chain, i double between the second and third pillars, 7 chain, i single into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 2 chain, 1 double between the third and fourth pillars, 7 chain,' i single into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 2 cham, i double between the fourth and fifth pillars, 7 chain, i single into the 3rd stitch of the 7 chain, 2 chain, i double between the fifth and sixth pillars. Repeat from * to the end of the row. That completes the outside edge. 4th row — make i treble into the chain between the first and second pillars of the first medallion of the second row, *3 chain, i treble between the second and third pillars, 3 chain, i treble between the third and fourth pillars, 3 chain, 1 treble between the fourth and fifth pillars, 3 chain, i long treble (long treble is made like a treble with the thread thrown over the needle twice and the cotton drawn through 2 loops at a time) into the chain after the sixth pillar, 3 chain, i long treble into the chain before the first pillar of the next medallion. Repeat from * to the end of the row, make 6 chain to turn. 5th row — i treble into the chain between the first two pillars of last row, 3 chain, i treble into the chain between each of the pillars of last row. 6th row — the same as the 5th. 7th row — 2 treble into the chain between each of the pillars of last row 8th row — double stitch. 9th row — i double, * i chain, miss i, I double, repeat from * to the end of the row. loth row, i treble, * 3 chain, miss 3, i treble, repeat from * to the end of the row. nth row — 4 chain, i double into each chain between the pillars of last row. i2th row — 4 double, 5 chain, 4 double, into each chain between the double stitches of the last row. Crochet a cord of chain stitch and run it into the 9th row. If liked a tassel may be put to each end of the cord. This pattern makes very pretty frills for children's knickerbocker drawers, omitting the last three rows. For these frills, when the length of braid required is ascertained, it should be neatly joined before the crochet is added to it, to prevent a clumsy join afterwards, and each row of crochet should be joined and fastened off in turn. Mrs. Leach's Dress Fitting Corset. This is one of the cheapest and most ser- viceable corsets manu- factured ; it is a good shape, and fitted with side steels to prevent crack- ing on the hips, and may be procured in black, scarlet, white, or drab, carriage free, for \s. l\d. Address, Mrs. Clara Leach, 2>1-, New Kent Road, London, S.E. THE FAi\CV WuRK-BASKET. COT QUILT. The illustration gives a section of a very pretty cot quilt. It is crocheted with Alexander's No. 6 knitting cotton. There are two patterns in the squares, which are arranged like the squares on a chess-board. To make a cot quilt it takes 6 squares in length and 5 in breadth. For a quilt for a large bed it requires 1 1 squares in length and lo in breadth. General directions: — To make the ribbed appearance in the squares, in all the odd rows the double stitches must only be worked into the bach of the stitches of the preceding row. In the even rows the double stitches are worked into both back and front of the stitches of the preceding row. The treble stitches are always to be worked into both back and front of the stitches of the preceding row. Turn every row with i chain. 1st square — make a chain of 52 stitches, ist row — miss i, work double stitches the whole way across. 2nd row — turn with i chain, double stitch all across. 3rd row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, take out the crochet needle and insert it into the top of the Ist treble stitch, then draw the loop of the last treble stitch through it, this closes the little tuft formed by the treble stitches, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 19 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, S treble into i, close, 3 double. 4th row — double stitch. 5th row— s double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 23 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 5 double. 6th row— double stitch. 7th row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 8th row— double stitch. 9th row — 5 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, S treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 5 double. loth row — double stitch, nth row — 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double. 12th row — double stitch. 13th row — 5 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 13 double, 5 treble into I, close, 5 double. 14th row — double stitch. 15th row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. i6th row — double stitch. 17th row — 15 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 15 double. 18th row — double stitch. 19th row — 13 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 7 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 152 13 double. 20th row — double stitch. 31st row — II 4PMble, 5 treblq into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 11 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, II double. 22nd row — double stitch. 23rd row — 9 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 15 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 9 double. 24th row — double stitch. 25th row — 7 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 19 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 7 double. 26th row — double stitch. 27th row — 9 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 15 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 9 double. 28th row — double stitch. 29th row — 11 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, S tieble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, J treble into i,close,n double. 30th row — double stitch. 31st row — i3double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, S treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 7 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double. 32nd row — double stitch. 33rd row — 15 double, J treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into 1, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into 1, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 15 double. 34th row — double stitch. 35th row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 36th row — -doulDle stitch. 37th row — 5 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into I, does, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 5 double. 38th row— double stitch. 39th row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 40th row — double stitch. 41st row— 5 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 5 double. 42nd row — double stitch. 43rd row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 doable, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, 'ose, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 44th row — double itch. 45th row — 5 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 23 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 5 double. 46th row — double stitch. 47th row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 19 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 48th row — double stitch. 49th row — double stitch. 50th row — double stitch. For the edging of the square — 4 chain,* miss r, i treble, I chain, repeat from * all across the end. To turn the corner — 4 chain, i treble into the ist stitch of the side, * i chain, miss i, i treble all across the side, and so on till you do round the 4 sides. Turn the last corner with 4 chain, and join into the 3rd of the 4 chain with which you started. Work a row of double stitch all round, and then fasten off. For the Second Square. Work the same as the ist square for 14 rows. 15th row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 7 double, 5 treble into i, close 3, double, 5 treble into 1, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close 3, double. 1 6th row — double stitch. 17th row — 15 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 15 double. i8th row — double stitch. 19th row — 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 15 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double. 20th row — double stitch. 21st row — 1 1 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 19 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double. 22nd row — double stitch. 23rd row — 9 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double, 5 treble into I, close, 11 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 9 double. 24th row — double stitch. 25th row — 7 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double, S treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 7 double. 26th row — double stitch. 27th row— 9 double, 5 treble THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. int6 I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double, 5 treble into I, close, 11 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into 1, close, 9 double. 28th row — double stitch. 29th row — 11 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 19 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double. 30th row— double stitch. 31st row— 13 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 15 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double. 32nd row- double stitch. 33rd row — 15 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 11 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble, into i, close, 15 double. 34th row — double stitch. 35th row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 7 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 "double, 5 treble into i, close, 13 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. Continue to the end, the same as the first square. Join all the squares together with single stitch ; hold two of them back to back and crochet the single stitches into the edges of both squares together. This forms a ridge all along the joining. When all the squares are joined, crochet 2 rows of double stitch all round the quilt. For the Border. Commence in the 3rd stitch from the right hand corner of one of the squares to crochet, ist row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 7 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 2nd row — i chain, miss i, 21 double, miss i. 3rd row — i chain, miss i, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close. 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 4th row— i chain, miss i, 17 double, miss i. Sth row — i chain, miss i, 3 double, S treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 6th row — i chain, miss i, 13 double, miss i. 7th row — i chain, miss i, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. Sth row — I chain, miss i, 9 double, miss i. 9th row — i chain, miss i, 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. loth row — i chain, miss I, 5 double, miss I. nth row — i chain, miss i, 3 double, fasten off. Miss 5 stitches along the side of the same square, and then make another mitre the same as the last, and so on all round the quilt ; two mitres to each side of a square. When you come to the corner squares of the quilt, you must space the mitres so as to leave a comer stitch, and 5 stitches on each side of it to work the corner mitre into. It is worked thus: Commence at the 1st of the 1 1 stitches to work. 1st row — 3 double, 5 treble into i, close, I double, 3 double into I, i double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 2nd row — I chain, miss i, 5 double, 3 double into I, 5 double. 3rd row — i chain, miss i, 3 double, 5 treble into I, close, I double, 3 double into I, I double, 5 treble into i, close, 3 double. 4th row — the same as the 2nd row. 5th row — the same as the 3rd row. 6th row — the same as the 2nd row. 7th row — the same as the 3rd row. Fasten off. When all the mitres are completed, crochet a row all round the quilt of I treble, I chain, making 9 trebles up the right side of each mitre, 4 treble across the top, 10 treble down the left side, and 3 treble between each mitre. At the corner mitres, 9 treble up the right side, 2 treble with 3 chain between at the point, and 10 treble down the left side. No trebles are to be worked between the corner mitres and those on each side of them. Last row — commence between two mitres to work * double stitch till you come to the ist of the 9 treble stitches up the right side, then I double, 6 treble, 1 double, I single, i double, 5 treble, i double, i single, i double, 10 treble round the point, 1 double, 1 single, i double, 5 treble, i double, I single, i double, 6 treble. Repeat from * all round, then fasten off. ANTIMACASSAR, With Raised Shamrock. A purl means S chain and i single stitch into ist chain stitch. Corner purl means i chain, i purl, 3 chain, i purl, i chain, i single stitch in chain stitch before ist purl. Corner back purl is i purl, i • chain, i purl fastened thus : Take out needle and put it through the 1st chain stitch ; turn the chain backwards and draw jth chain stitch through ist chain stitch. One-leaved purl — 2 chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, 3 chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, i chain, i single stitch on 2nd stitch of 2 chiin at beginning of one-leaved purl. Two-leaved purl — 2 chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, 5 ■chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, 3 chain, 2 purls divided by i ■chain, i chain, i single stitch into 4th stitch of 5 chain, 3 chain, i •single stitch into 2nd stitch of 5 chain, i chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, i single stitch into 2nd stitch of 2 chain. Four-leaved purl — 2 chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, 5 chain, 2 purls divided by i ■chain, 2 chain. Fasten to centre stitch of last row of last completed 'diamond, i chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, i chain, i single into 4th stitch of 5 chain, * 3 chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, 3 chain. 2 purls divided by r chain, i chain, i single into centre stitch of last 3 chain but i. Repeat from *, i chain, i single into 2nd stitch of 5 chain, 1 chain, 2 purls divided by i chain, 1 chain, / single into 2nd chain stitch at beginning of four-'caved purl. Commence antimacassar by working a corner purl, 8 chain, make a one-leaved purl, 8 chain, **make a corner purl, miss i chain stitch. Turn and work 15 double stitches into the 2 chains of 8 stitches, * I chain. Turn and work i 5 double stitches into last row, always catching up only the back half of stitch. Repeat from * 3 times. Always have 15 double stitches in each row of diamonds. 6th row of diamond-- 1 chain, 7 double stitches, i chain, miss i double stitch of last row, and 7 double stitch into last row, make a two- leaved purl. 7th row of diamond— i chain, 7 double, 5 chain, i double stitch on chain stitch of last row, 5 chain, i double stitch on 5th row of diamond on stitch missed under i chain in 6th row, 5 chain, i double stitch into same stitch into which you worked the 7th double stitch in this row. Turn and work 9 double stitches into each of the loops you have just formed by 5 chain. This forms shamrock, 7 double stitches on remaining stitches of 6th row. 4 more rows same as first 5 rows of diamond ; work a comer purl. 1 2th row of diamond — 1 chain, 15 double stitches into last row ; work a corner back purl. This completes ist diamond. There should be 12 rows of double crochet with 15 stitches in each row on every diamond. 2nd diamond — 8 chain, catch up 2nd leaf of the two-leaved purl, 8 chain. Repeat from **, only working a four-leaved purl at end of 5th row. Proceed in the same way till you have 6 diamonds. In the 6th diamond work a one-leaved purl at end of 6th row, a two-leaved purl from the centre of the 1 2th row, and a corner purl instead of a corner back purl, at the end of the 1 2th row. Fasten off. 2nd row of diamonds — work a comer purl, 8 chain, work a two-leaved purl, catching the point of its 2nd leaf through the last stitch of 5lh row of ist diamond, S chain, catch up corner purl of ist diamond. Repeat from **, omitting the corner purl, and, instead of making a two-leaved purl after 6th row, merely catch up the 3rd leaf of the ist four-lea\ed purl. Work 2nd diamond same as 2nd diamond in ist row of diamonds, only after the 8 chain, where you catch the two-leaved purl, catch up the 4th leaf of the 1st four-leaved purl. Work 3 more diamonds same as 2nd diamond. Work 6th diamond same as 6th diamond in 1st row of diamonds, only, instead of working a one-leaved purl after the 6th row, catch up the 2nd leaf of two-leaved purl. Work 3 more rows of diamonds same as 2nd row. 6th and last row of diamonds— work the same as 5th row, only make a one- leaved purl in 1st diamond instead of a two-leaved purl. In 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th diamonds work a two-leaved purl after the 5th row instead of a four-leaved purl. In 6th diamond — work a one-leaved purl instead of a two-leaved purl from the centre of 12th row. Fasten off. Border and Fringe. 1st round — begin at centre of one-leaved purl which forms the corner of the antimacassar ; work 2 treble into the 3rd chain of one- US THE 'FANCY WORlt-BASKEf. leaved purl, 5 chain, 2 treble Into the same 3 chain into which you worked the last treble stitches, 1 1 chain, i double stitch into centre of next corner purl, 10 chain, i treble into centre of next two-leaved purl, 10 chain, i double into next corner purl. Continue in this way all round, always work 1 1 chain before and after each one-leaved purl. 2nd round — i double stitch into every stitch of last round. 3rd round— always catch up front half of each stitch of last round, * 7 double stitches into next stitch, miss i stitch and work i single stitch into next stitch, miss i stitch, and repeat from * all round. 4th round— I treble into every stitch of 2nd round, catching up the back half of stitches. After every 7 treble stitches work a purl loop as follows : 2 chain, 2 purls with i chain stitch between, 3 chain, 2 purls with I chain stitch between, 2 chain, i single stitch into last treble stitch ; at the corners of antimacassar work 4 treble stitches into i stitch of last row, and between the 2nd and 3rd of these treble stitches work 2 treble loops ; at the end of round join last treble stitch to 1st treble stitch by a single stitch. P'asten off. 5th round— commence on centre stitch of a purl loop ; 6 chain, i single stitch on centre of next purl loop, between the 2 purl loops at each corner work 14 chain. 6th round— same as 2nd round. 7th round— same as 3rd round. 8th round — i double stitch in each stitch of 7th round, only catching up back half of stitches. 9th round— I treble in each stitch of 8th round, catching up only the back half of each stitch ; at the corners put 5 treble into the centre stitch. loth round— i double into treble of last round, * 2 chain, l purl, 6 chain, miss 4 stitches of last row, and work double stitch into next stitch of last row ; * at the corners only miss 2 stitches instead of 4 stitches 3 times. Repeat from * to * all round. 1 ith round—* I double into 2nd stitch of the 6 chain of last round, 2 chain, i purl, 4 chain, 11 purl with i chain stitch between each, 2 chain, 2 single stitches on 3rd and 4th stitches of 4 chain (this makes the II purls into a loop), 5 chain, repeat from * all round. Fasten off. Sew the centre of each shamrock leaf to the diamond. This anti- macassar requires 7 skeins of crochet cotton No. 2, and a steel needle fine enough to make the work pretty firm. This is rather an intricate pattern, but well repays the trouble, as it is extremely handsome, and washes well ; il looks well in ecru cotton. MAT FOR HYACINTH GLASS OR VASE OF FLOWERS. Materials required :— One skein of blue Berlin fingering wool and a few threads of brown ditto, a ball of silver tinsel, and a rather fine bone crochet hook. With the brown wool make 4 chain stitches, unite with a single stitch in the first of the 4 chain, work 2 double stitches in each of the 4 chain stitches. 2nd round— \york 2 double stitches in the first stitch, i double m the next stitch, repeat all round. 3rd round—* 2 double in first stitch, i double m each of the next 2 stitches, repeat from * all round. Continue working in double crochet, increasing when required to keep the work flat, until there are 51 double stitches round the circle. Break off the brown wool and with the blue commence the border, ist round— work 2 treble in i stitch, * 3 chain, 2 treble in same stitch as last '' treble were worked in, miss 2 stitches, 2 treble into next, and repeat from * 16 times more; unite with a single stitch to the first treble stitch of the round. 2nd round—* 12 treble into the loop of 3 chain of last round, repeat from * 16 times more ; unite to first stitch of round with a single stitch, and break off the blue 154 wool. 3rd round — with the silver tinsel work i double stitch into each of the treble stitches of last round, taking both the loops of the stitch. 4th round— with the blue wool, same as ist round, but working the 4 treble stitches with 3 chain, between the 8th and 9th stitches of the 12 treble of last round, taking the stitches over the tinsel round. 5th round — same as 2nd round. Break off the blue wool and with the tinsel work 6th round same as 3rd round. Any coloured wool can be chosen, or gold tinsel instead of silver. A mat with only one coloured wool and the tinsel looks very well. SLEEPING SOCKS. Materials required : — 2j ounces white or scar- let peacock fingering wool, bone hook, No. 9. Commence by making a chain of 26, turn, and missing first chain work 12 double crochet, into the 14th chain work 2 double crochet, this is for the centre stitch, thereby making it come up in a point for shape of foot, then work 12 more double crochet, turn and work in the same way 13 double crochet, then 3 into i again to increase for centre, but be sure to take up the back part ridges or ribs, known as .■01 to make it lie 1 — ■,' of stitch, so as Russian crochet. Every row is alike. Work in this way for 28 rows, when there should be 26 stitches each side of the centre. 29th row — work 27 stitches, in the next stitch make 15 chain, this is for the top of leg. Turn, miss i chain, and work back the re- maining 14 stitches, and finish the row in same way as before, when there should be 41 stitches. Work these 41 stitches back- wards and forwards from top to bottom for 42 rows or 21 ribs; this forms a straight piece for the leg. Now unite to the other side of foot by making a slip stitch from one side to the other, taking up each stitch all the way down ; be sure and keep it even or the leg will not set well ; then sew up with a long needleful of wool, beginning at the toe. Now dravif the 5 centre stitches into one loop, or stitch, and sew up the two sides of toe and bottom of foot, keeping the ribs opposite one another, and sew it loosely but neatly, leaving 5 ribs at the bottom for heel, which draw up ; this makes sufficient fulness for the heel to make it fit round. Now for the edge at top to make a pretty finish : make a chain, and draw up 2 long loops loosely but evenly and unite by i chain, this forms a thick clumpy stitch; do this in every rib. 2nd row — 4 chain, i double crochet into each hole, between the thick stitch of last row. This completes the sock, which is ladies' size and very comfortable and simple to make. If required thicker and a larger size, use 3-thread fleecy and bone hook No. 7 or 8. Mrs. LEACH'S IMPROVED CORSET. This Corset is designed for the purpose o£ reducing the figure to a systematic propor- tion, at the same time to strengthen and support the back by means of a Belt, in itself so simple that the wearer can in a moment tighten or loosen the Corset at pleasure, without any assistance. These goods are made of the best materials and produced at the very lowest price con- sistent with good workmanship, and are modelled on French models of the latest de- sign. May be had, made in white, 8s. lid., and scarlet or black, 9s. lid., carriage free. THE MODEL FIGURE BELT, This model Figure Belt was made to special measurements and supplied direct by Mrs. Leach to the PRINCESS SPADA OF SPAIN. - ' ' These belts are highly recom- mended for giving the figiure a nicely rounded shape, and for the great support they afford to the back. The measurement should be given from right round at A, B (just above the hips), and o (round hips to lowest part), and depth from D to D. Carriage free for 10s. M. and 12s. U. Handsomely finished, 15s. and 21s. Address, Mrs. Claba Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London, S.E. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. ■ > » M9* ^ — < ■ PRIZE COMPETITION, — In conserjucnce of /he great number of ankles sent in to the above, we find it impossible to award the Prizes In our present issue, but will do so in the July number. MACRAME WORK Fir,. 8 Is same a'. Fig 7, but slnws a fiinher detail of making a leaf of 3 bars. Fig. 9 Shows 2 leaves or half a star, with method of passing from 2nd to 3rd leaf. Sliows the star coraplet\ No. 9. FiC. 10 Fig. II. Fir,. 12. Fig. II shows manner of forming a diamond; it is worked as Fig. 10, with 4 leaves, but the reverse way, the 2nd leaf being made with the 1st 8 strings, and the ist leaf of star worked 2nd in the diamond. Fig. 12 shows complete diamond. Fig 13 — Gives detail of small square ; these squares frequently come in the pattern, and as they are rather difficult to keep on the square, they should be practised before working a pattern of them; there are 8 strings to a square ; hold the 5 th in left hand, slanting it as in Fig. 7, and knot with the right hand the 4 first strings on the leader, then hold the 6th string in left close down by the side of the 1st bar, and knot these 4 again on to this leader ; do the same with the 7th and 8th strings, and at the beg'nning of each bar you leave a gradual margin to correspond with the other side. There are four things in these squares to mind : leave a string at the end of each bar, keep the margins equal, keep the bars close together by holding the leaders well up over the previous rows, and always take for the 1st leader the string nearest the centre; this square, you see, is worked from right to left, instead of left to right. -.-.^ A^^-^- ^^^M W NJ.^.'i /^^y /y^y//^ ^^^ \ //(/// /iMrx/^ ^V^§ ^ Y ^ Fig. 14 gives a square of 12 strings, and is worked fiom left to right, that is, take for your ist leader the string on the left of the centre. 155 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Fig. 15. Fig. 16. Fig. is Is a pretty useful stitch called single chain, because it is worked with 2 threads; hold the ist in right hand, and knot the 2nd on to it once, or |^ a stitch, then take the leader in left hand and knot the other thread on to it ; each action is called a stitch. Fig. 16 Is the same action as Fig. 1 5, but worked with 4 strings, 2 each side, and is, therefore, called double chain. .v\^s.\\.v\Aa\l,'i Fig. 17. Buttonhole stitch, and one much used ; it is simply the macramo stitch worked with i thread over 2 threads. Fig. 18 is also a popular stitch called Solomon's knot. Take the 2 centre strings, leaving one each side, and tie them to a button at front of dress (or a better plan is to putalarge stud through the buttonhole of dress and secure the two strings to this), take the string on left side, double it, making a loop, place the loop across the 2 centre threads, take the end of right-hand string, put it down through the loop and up through the loop on left side, . then over the 2 strings caused by left hand loop, under the centre ones and up through the loop on right side, keeping hold of the 2 strings : draw the stitch up tightly. i56 l^^^SffiSI ^ssssss Fig. 19 Is the same as Fig. 18, a Solomon's knot, only worked with 6 strings, centre 2, 2 each side. Fig. 21. Fig. 20. Fig. 20 , . Shows a star with a raised picot. 16 strings, the same as for Figs. 9 and 10; work 2 leaves, as Fig. 9, then with the 4 centre strings work 4 Solomon's knots, as Fig. i8. Now look at Fig 21; there you have the 2 leaves and 4 knots ; thread the left-hand string of the 4 in the centre with the small packing-needle,; and put the needle down through the small hole at the left side at the beginning of the Solomon's knots ; do the same with the string on the right side, and pass the 2 centre ones down through the hole between the 2 leaves, and finish by making 2 leaves. Fig. 21 Shows a twist very much used. Take 4 threads, secure the 2 centre ones, as for Solomon's knot, place the end of the left-side string across the centre, bring the right-hand thread across the end of left-hand thread, under the centre ones and up through the loop at left side, work 5 stitches, and then turn the. strings. Fig. 22 Is a very rich cord of 4 strings ; turn the 2nd one back over the foundation line, the ist and3rd strings simply tie them together once, then the 2nd and 4th tie together in the centre of the last tie, then again 1st and 3rd, and so on alternately ; thii requires prac- tice to do it well. m. i ^k.UU.\,V\sU.V\ v\.V.^ THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Painting on Terra-eotta. Long before I had any idea of the use of oil colours, I thought I should like to paint on terra-cotta I read several articles on the subject, but could not venture to begin, as no details or actnal (lescriptioii of the painting was given. In one article I remember the writer said that terra-cotta should be painted in the same manner as canvas ; but as I did not then know how to paint on canvas, this did not help me much. As I think some of my readers may experience the same difficulty, I will try and help them as much as I possibly can. in these pages, by giving every detail, and the method of painting several designs in flowers and fruit. At the present day, terra-cotta can be procured in two or three colours, red, black, creamy, light blue, gi'ey and white. The black can be painted in oils or water colours, but not in china colours, as it will not bear firing. The other colours can be painted in oil, water, or china colours ; these admit of firing. The black is by far the most effective, and it is easier to work upon than the creamy and red, as it is not porous, and, therefore, does not absorb the colour, nor dry so quickly. Painting in oil colours. — Materials required are: — A bo.x of oil paints, and a tube of meguilp, two or, three sable brushes (besides what are already in the box), a very fine one, and two of medium size, these two latter can be of cainel hair, a palette and palette- knife will be in the box. Having now all the necessary materials for working, next thing is to get something to work upon, and, as I am supposing my reader is quite a beginner, a copy of the flower she wishes to paint will have to be procured ; a Christmas card will often prove very useful, or a coloured print. However, if nothing of this sort be forthcoming, a copy must be procured by hiring it from an art shop, and for civility and cheapness, I would recom- mend Hoar's, in Queen's Road, W. ; by paying a deposit to the value of the picture, one can be hired for threepence a week ; the article of terra-cotta can also be had there. I should recommend a beginner to try a small red plate at first, and paint a design of white flowers upon it. A pretty one is a spray of white convolvulus, the painting of which I will try to describe. Before commencing to draw your design, be sure you have your plate in the right position, if you look at the back of it, you will see two holes by which to hang it up, so be sure and keep these holes at the iop of the plate. The design can be drawTi in with lead pencil, and indiarubber used for rubbing out any inaccuracies ; it is much better to spend a long time over the drawing, in order to have it perfectly correct, as if it is not, you will not be able to paint the lights and shades, as seen in the copy. I often notice, in my pupils, so much eagerness to get to the nice part, viz., the painting, that they are apt to take too little pains over the drawing, and so spoil the painting. If my reader is not very clever at drawing, the copy can be traced on to tracing paper, and then on to the plate. Buy a sheet of tracing paper, put a piece over the copy, and mark the outline of flowers and leaves, &c. with a pencil ; then rub a lead pencil all over the bach of the paper, put the paper on the plate, with the blackened part dowim-arch, keep the paper very stead)', and go over the outline, pressing rather hard, with a sharp pencil Now you can proceed to paint. Proceed to set your palette, in doing so, take care not to squeeze the tubes too hard, or you waste a great deal of paint. The shadow colour of the flower must be first put in ; for it, mix the following colours : ivory black, pale chrome and flake white. This must be painted on rather thickly but evenly, and allowed to dry thoroughly ; now put in the lights with flake white ; where you see a yellow tinge of colour on the flowers, put a very pcde wash of light chrome xiiithout mixing it with flake whit«. For the shadows of the leaves, mix raw sienna, Antwerp blue, and a litth flake white. This must be painted over all the leaf, and the lights are put on afterwards, being composed of chrome-yellow, raw sienna and Antwerp blue ; no hard line must be seen where the light parts join the shadows, so you must blend the colours together, using your paint brush very gently ; but this can only be done successfully by practice. A slight coat of copal varnish is to be applied when the painting is completed, to bring out the brilliancy of the colours. Pink roses on a black plate. — To trace the design white chalk must be used on the back of the paper in exactly the same way as the pencil was used in the other ; then the design, chalk side down, must be put on the plate, and the outline gone over with pencil. Having the design traced, we will now proceed to paint. Draw in the outline of the rose with rose madder mixed with a little flake white, then fill in the whole flower, put it on in the form of the petals, turning the brush to their shape. For the shadow, mix per- manent blue, a little pale chrome, and rather more of rose madder, to make it a pinky-grey ; put this on wherever you see the shadows. This is for the darkest shadows. Mix some rose madder and flake, much lighter than before, for the lights, working the brush in curves over the edges of the petals ; soften the edges of this off with a clean brush ; this must l-ie done very lightly, so as not to work up the colour underneath ; pure flake white must be put on on the r«rr;/ hi'jhest lights. Everyone, of course, cannot get real roses to copy ; but to those who can, I should recommend them always to copy from them, instead of a copy. Now for the leaves, mix flake white, raw sienna and Antwerp blue, paint the leaf with it ; now mix Ant- werp blue and chrome yellow for the veins. Use this same colour for the lights, putting it in wherever you see them in the copy ; for the darkest shadows, use burnt sienna, raw sienna, Antwerp blue. The high lights are a bluish-grey ; for this, mix permanent blue, flake white and a little brown madder, put this on very lightly. A rose is one of the most difficult flowers, but I (elt I could not leave out such a universal favourite, although 1 should not recommend beginners to attempt it until they have painted several easier flowers. Painting in mater colours. — This is a much more tedious manner of painting on terra-cotta than oils, but for some who prefer it 1 will give a few hints. The materials required are a box of moist colours in tubes, or buy them separately, as I did when I first began, but do not be tempted to buy those at twopence each, as they are very inferior paints, it is much better to buy the more expensive ones. Besides these you will want a china palette and two or three different sized brushes. The design is traced in exactly the same way as already described, and then the design must be coated with size. You can get this at any artist's colourman, or as a substitute, you may use lavender balsam, diluted with turpentine. This sizing must be done very smoothly and carefully, and not put on with too small a brush. When it is thoroughly dry, sketch in the design in Chinese white, and it must be also put over that portion of the design where the brightest tints are to be painted, but the Chinese white must be made thin with the medium. When this white is quite dry the colours may be pa'inted ; the paints are mixed with Roberson's medium. In painting in water colours, the lightest shades are put in first, and then the shadows ; all high lights must be left, they cannot be painted after the other colours are put on, for instance a pink rose is painted by putting on the palest wash of pink, leaving the high lights, which will be formed by the coat of white underneath, then the next darker shade of pink is put on, then the deepest shade, and the shadows, and this rule is observed for all water colour painting, figure, flower, landscape or fruit, .^^fter the painting is quite di^, it must have a coat of the medium put on very smoothly, when this is quite dry, a coat of copal varnish may be applied. Some painters varnish the whole plate, or vase, but I think it looks best to varnish only the design, as it shows up so well on the dull background. Gilding on terra-cotta. — This always seems to an amateur very difficult, but with a little practice they will find it is not beyond them. The rim of the plaque or whatever parts are to be gilded, must be rubbed with pumice stone. This will make the terra- cotta perfectly smooth, and now (when it is smooth), you must coat it with gilder's size, and when the size begins to get sticky, or nearly dry, leaf gold is put on with a fine brush ; the gold is first of all cut, a cushion made for the purpose is used to cut it on, a palette knife being used. The brush ought to be passed very lightly over the hair which causes the gold leaf to adhere to it. Now lay the leaf on the size very carefully, taking care not to crease or curl the leaf. Burnishing adds greatly to the effect, and if you wish to tr>' it, you will want a burnisher made of agate. Whenever the gold becomes dirtj', it can be cleaned with white vinegar. I have only spoken of plaques, but there are many different shaped vases, &c., suitable for decoration, and any subject can be treated on terra-cotta, but scarcely anything is so effective as flowers, and they can be painted to perfection. The black is by far the most effective, and the easiest for beginners. A spray of apple blossom on a black plaque looks ver)' well. I would recom- mend my readers always to study from nature as much as possible, and if they can get a spray of apple, blossom and compare with the painted copies sold, they would then see for themselves how unlike the copy is to the real thing. Fruit looks very effective, a bunch of purple grapes painted on white terra-cotta or bright red currants on black. I have not room in this paper to describe the painting of fruit, but I may at some future time, if my readers would like to know more of this attractive style of painting. B. J. TSB Just Published, Volunie I. Price Is. Gd. £ll5^^r>EJEi (416 pixgcs, uniform size of 2s, Novels.) Contaluing 13 original and Complete Novels by favourite contributors to our best Magarines, and contains tlu-ee times tbc reading of any 23. novel. "Its cliaractcr is cc^ual to tlu-ee-volume novels." " It forms a charming series in a neat form." Each, nximber contains a complete and highly interesting library noveL Three numbers contain more than any 2s. noveL Order of any Bookstalls, or sent post-free for 21 stamps. R. Cartwrigbt, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. 157 THK FANCY WORK-BASKKT. HANDSOME ORNAMENTS FOR THE DRAWING ROOM. Drawing-room Pincushions are still very fashionable, chiefly those for hanging on the wall, when they should be made very handsome, and to suit the tone of furnitui-e in colour, as far as possible. A pretty pattern and one easily made is the Pack of Cards. For this first cut two thin pieces of card or stout paper, the exact size of a playing card. Cover one piece with white silk or satin (be sure to have a white piece of card, as print would shew through). Cut out the pips in red or black velvet, according as you choose spades or diamonds. These are easier to manage than clubs or hearts. Four spades are pretty, or eight diamonds. Tack the pips on neatly with small stitches at the proper places. Cover your other card with a handsome piece of figured velvet or plush, then take a strip of the same, or whatever you like to use, and sew it first round one card and then round the other, taking care to ease the corners. Leave a small space unsewn to put in the stuffing and fill it with bran or wool clippings, not too full, and sew it up neatly. Add ribbons to hang up with bows at the top and sides. Another Pincushion, not at all difficult to make, is a large circular shape, prettily trimmed with lace and ribbons. Cut two rounds in card, about four inches in diameter, and cover them with pale blue or old gold satin. The one for the front is then to be ornamented in the centre. The most effective way, perhaps, is to paint a pretty view in water colours, lusha painting or any other style. But if you do not paint, or require something more quickly done, the pincushion is equally pretty decorated with flowers in applique or worked in crewel silks or arrasene, or even with a handsome relief scrap, such as are sold in sheets. Whatever you choose should be of as round a form as possible, and should fill the middle two inches. Fix the ornament on, either with invisible stitches or gum, tack a frill of lace, about an inch wide, round it in a perfect circle, and slightly full, and then add a row of feather stitch in silk to keep it in place. Put a row of the same lace under the outer edge of the circle, and sew the two circles together. Sew on ribbons for loops to hang up, and a bow at the top. Put in the pins, standing out a little at the lace frill. The same style of Pincushion is very nice without the lace, and with the painting or ornament to fill up more of the centre. The Horses' Face-piece Pincushions are now not quite so new as the others, but are always effective, and sell well at bazaars. To make the stuffing, roll list round, till you have a circle rather larger than the brass ornament, or stuff a round with cuttings, and cover it with pretty pieces of satin ; crimson always looks well, or black one side and yellow the other. Tack the facepiece firmly on in 3 or 4 places, add a narrow ribbon, to match or contrast, round the circumference, and loops and bows to hang up. These facepieces also make very good penwipers. You must then get the brass loop sawn off". This will be done by the saddler who procures them. Cut a cardboard circle the same size as your facepiece, cover it with bright red or blue flannel or cloth. Sew strips of the same, the edges pinked out, to form a frill under the circle. The frills should be about i J inches wide, boxplaited pretty full. Tack the facepiece on to the circle, line it at the back, and put rounds of cloth under the whole. ANTIMACASSAR IN FERN-SPL.ASHING. Materials : — I a yard of white book muslin and 3 yards of lace. Cut the muslin to size required, hem it, stitch lace round, and stretch upon a clean board, taking care to keep the lace clean Obtain a variety of fern fronds, and fasten them in tasteful patterns to the muslin with small pins driven into the board with small hammer. Take care to pin those ferns nearest to the muslin that are intended to be represented on the antimacassar as quite white. The ferns that will show as partially shaded may be pinned over these so as to overlap them. Use plenty of pins so as to leave no parts of the ferns loose. Rub Indian ink with cold water in a saucer until a stiff" black fluid is formed. Take a large dressing comb and stiff tooth-brush. Dip the brush in" the black fluid and rub over the comb, holding it over the ferns, taking care that no drops fall from the comb. If the fluid is of the right thickness a fine black spray will fall upon the ferns and muslin which will gradually darken the ground behind the ferns. After going over the whole ground care- fully remove the largest ferns that were pinned on last. Then splash over the white spaces until shaded over. Remove more ferns and continue splashing. When the antimacassar is sufficiently dark remove the last ferns, which will be left white. Take the muslin from the board and spread out to dry. This fancy work is highly pleasurable, affording ample scope for taste in the arrangement and delicacy in the manipulation. The same work may be done upon cardboard, satin, and sateen with equal success ; and many pretty articles made at small cost, as mottoes for framing, toilet tidies, night-dress cases, bed-pockets, &c. 158 Materials re quired:— Coloured paper, with a bor- der if possible, 2 long narrow sticks, a very large empty cotton reel, black and gold paint, co- loured ribbon. Take a piece of the paper, mea- suring 93 inches long by 13 inches wide, and if it has no border itself, paste one on at either edge, or at only one, if pre- ferred, measuring about 3 inches in width. This may be obtained at any paper - hanger's. Lay the paper on a table with its narrow edge to- wards you, fold this edge in a flat fold, measuring 12 inches wide. Re- verse the paper, that is, turn it over and make another fold in the same way at the same end. Continue folding it backwards and forwards in this manner as if making a fan, taking care that all the pleats are straight and of the same width. Pierce a hole in the end of the paper where there is no border, if only one border is used, right through all the folds, run a ribbon through and tie the folds rather loosely together with it ; the circle of ribbon thus made should be about 2 inches round. This gives the pleats free play when t\ie fan is to be folded up. Get a carpenter to cut two flat sticks, 31 inches long and ij inches wide ; they must be this width for 13 ihches of their length, and then taper gradually to a thin point at the ends. Paint them over with black paint, and add gold paint if it is considered necessary ; stick them with thin glue to each end of the pleated paper. It will be seen that they serve as handles to open out and close the fan with. The cotton reel is next to be considered. It must be one of the very large ones that are supposed to hold a mile of cotton. Paint it over with a coat of black paint or enamel, and when this is fully dry, pick out the edges and make a wavy sort of pattern round the side with gold paint. When the fan is opened out fully, the two ends of the sticks must be pushed into the hole at the top of the spool, as shown in the illustration. The hole is easily enlarged if the sticks cannot be pushed in easily. Any carpenter will nail a circular piece of lead to the base of the reel if it requires weighting. A bow of ribbon or cord and tassels should hide the tie in the centre of the fan if it looks at all unsightly. The whole thing may be easily folded up and put away when the winter comes, and fires are unfortunately once more in request. NIGHT-DRESS SACHET, Of Sateen and Madras Muslin. These two materials form a very pretty and simple sachet. In addition to being pretty and easily made, the materials are most inexpensive. J of a yard of Madras muslin of an open lacy appearance, and the same quantity of crimson sateen are required. For trimming, 3 yards of cream lace, as like the muslin as possible, are necessary. Of course any other coloured sateen would also be suitable to make up with Madras muslin, if preferred to crimson. The colour should be chosen to suit the furniture of the owner's bedroom, and might match or contrast with the curtains and bed- hangings or whatever colour predominates throughout the room. Sateen can easily be obtained in any of the following colours : o'd gold, blue, eau de Nil, cream, sage, myrtle, and other shades of green. A vast range of choice lies before us in the many varieties of pink hues. If a more costly article is desired, of course satin can be substituted with great advantage. To make the sachet, cut off" 1 5 inches in width of the two materials, measuring from I sel- vedge, having I yard in length. Lay the muslin on the top of the sateen, having the right side of each material uppermost. Turn in THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. the edges and seam the two materials neatly together across the bottom (the narrowwidth) with crimson sewing silk. Then join the sides in the same way for 22 inches from the bottom. Fold the sachet thus — with the sateen outside, place the bottom to where the side joins ended and sew up, so as to form a pocket, leaving :J-inch seams. Cut off or round the corners of the flap now left, leaving an extra i inch of muslin to hem down on the wrong side of flap. Now sew on the lace round the bottom of the flap and down the sides and across the bottom of the sachet. Take care to leave the lace very full at the corners, as otherwise it will not lie flat. Work a loop under the lace on bottom of the flap and sew on a button to correspond to it. BASSINETTE OR CRADLE PILLOW CASE. It is usual to see in cradles and bassinettes pillows that are made the same oblong shape which is used for ordinary beds, without any regard being paid to the rounded shape of the head of the cradle. It is a great improvement to round one side of the pillow, as it fits more neatly into its place, and consequently, makes a more com- fortable resting place for the head of the little occupant. To make the pillow, get a piece of linen ticking, 18 inches in length and 20 inches in width, fold it lengthwise down the centre, and, with a pair of scissors, round the outside corners nicely. Have the material turned on the wrong side and sew a seam closely all round, leaving a gap sufficiently large to admit a handful of feathers. Rub wax lightly on the wrong side of the case to prevent the feathers coming out. Then turn the right side out and put in a sufficient quantity of feathers of the best quality ; if stuffed too full the pillow will be hard ; sew up the gap. To make the pillow slip. — Procure a piece of nice fine linen, 20 inches in width and 20 inches in length. Fold it lengthwise down the centre and cut a slit down the fold for 2 inches at one end. Cut off J of an inch from the length of one half of the linen at the end with the slit. Turn down at the same end hems measuring f of an inch ; the top of one hem and the bottom of the other should exactly come to the place where the slit ends. Sew the hems either by hand or machine ; then round the comers the same as in the ticking case. The hem which projects beyond the other one, will afterwards be turned in and slipped as a lap underneath the other one, this should be remembered in rounding the corners, and the shaping should be made as if the other hem were the end of the pillow case. Make the seam by first sewing it on the right side and then on the wrong. Sew a button on the lap hem and work a button-hole on the other one to correspond ; button it so as to keep the lap in its place, and sew a pretty crochet trim- ming all round it. Brilliant makes very pretty little cradle slips, but it does not keep its nice white colour so well as linen. WALL-POCKET. Take a Japanese screen —and for a wall-pocket the gay brightly - coloured paper screens are more regular in shape and pleasanter to work upon than the palm leaf screens, which are more appro- priate for covering with flowers. Cut a piece of firm cardboard (an old dress or hat - box will answer as well as any- thing) the exact size and shape of the screen with- out the handle. Stitch it firmly to the back of the screen, so as to stiffen it and keep it in shape. Next take a strip of crimson satin measuring 8 inches in width and about 20 inches in length. Fold it into even, straight pleats, and tack it neatly to the front of the screen just below the interlacing fibres there are at the bottom of the screen, or at the top when it is held upside down as a wall-pocket. If the screen be a small one it will perhaps not require such a large piece of satin, but this will be seen as scon as the work is commerced. Cover 159 the front part of the fan that is not ornamented by these pleats with a flat piece of the same satin. The pocket itself is formed by taking a crescent-shaped piece of the same cardboard which is sewn at the back of the fan. It must just fit the fan at the bottom and sides, the curved part coming uppermost and projecting so as to form an open pocket. It should measure 6 inches in width at its widest part, and of course taper to nothing at the sides. This must be covered with crimson plush smoothly and tightly, and afterwards neatly lined with satin. Sew it firmly to the fan at the edges. The top part of this pocket is finished off with a valance of the satin cut out in five vankyes, the top part being sloped to correspond with the first, neatly stitched all round and finished with a tassel between and at the top of each point. A ball or tassel fringe to correspond in colour with the rest of the materials used must be added all round the fan, and then a lining of sateen sewn at the back to make all neat and tidy. A loop and bow of ribbon must be added at the top to hang it up by. These wall-pockets may be made very ornamental by the addition of embroidery or painting below the Vandykes, and at the same time look equally effective and pretty hanging up in a bedroom made in cretonne and sateen to correspond with it in colour. If required as a simple bed-pocket a large white hook on which a watch may be hung can be tightly sewn to the fan at the bottom of the handle, and the stitches so hidden by the ribbon that only the hook itself shows. The tiny fans that are like the larger ones in everything but size, make most charming little watch-pockets on exactly the same principle. These look very elegant fussily trimmed with lace instead of fringe. fii, '•c?,^ '-'-n is??t5^ '^i' ■jy-^ i^l '<3? ?S^5; .■CS.\ ti' i'o^;.3. m ■^n-A ■O ^ M if' pci i^.-tvct Q?^ W^ Ih-^J ^'^, m A USEFUL WRITING CASE. A very strong and useful writing case, which would form a capital present for a gentleman, may be made from a music portfolio with the help of some gay cretonne, sateen, cord, and elastic. It does not in the least matter how common in quality the portfolio is, even if it be an old one it will answer just as well, as it will be entirely covered up. First — cover the portfolio outside with cretonne, making it tidy and neat inside by a lining of sateen. This must be fitted to the portfolio and sewn to the cretonne cover at the edges. The pockets must next be contrived for the inside. Take some modei-ately firm cardboard, and cut it the same length as the portfolio but about three inches narrower, cover this also neatly with the cretonne and line with the sateen. Then take another piece of the same cardboard, the same length as the other, but only half the width, cover and line this in the same way. Sew at the edges firmly to the other piece and stitch it as well twice across its width so as to divide it into 3 compartments. When these 2 are sewn together, sew them in their turn to the inside ot the portfolio itself, taking care that the top or opening of the pocket turns towards the inside of the writing case so that the contents of the pockets do not slip out when the case is shut up. Make yet another pocket in the same way for the other side of the case, but if preferred, this may be only a single, not a double one. Sew a piece of elastic in the middle of the case from side to side THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. of the inside to hold three or four sheets of blotting paper, and finally edge the case all round with cord to hide the stitches. The writing case thus described is rather an elaborate one, but it is won- derful what a quantity of letters, MS S. and writing materials it will ho!d without becoming appreciably thicker in form. A simpler way of making them is of course without so many pockets or even with none at all, or with the pockets soft and not lined with card- board. In this case the pockets may easily be made more expand- ing by the aid of a pleat at each side near the edge of the writing case. Some of the cases that we have seen had the pockets lined with blotting-paper, and this is a good arrangement while it lasts fresh, clean and new, but unfortunately it .=;oon wears out. Again, the materials of which they are made may be varied in many ways. Brown holland bound with braid and with initials embroidered outside in red wool is a useful, durable material. If anything more ornamental is required, nothing can take the place of plush. Some gentlemen like a case that is soft enough to roll up, and for such a one as this black silk is a good material to use, lightened by embroidery or cord. Of course the foundation of a portfolio is then not required at all. A music portfolio makes a large sized case, but they may easily be contrived smaller. There are many portfolios sold to contain drawings which would answer quite as well. SCRAP BAG. The above illustration represents a very useful bag that is intended to hold odds and ends of wool, but may, with no difficulty, be made of a large size, so as to contain the whole collection of family stockings and the materials for mending the same. Cut two circles of card- board, each measuring about 5 inches in diameter ; cover each of these with coloured sateen and sew them together at the edges. This makes a very large flat pincushion, the pins being stuck in at the edge between the stitches, and also serves as a stiff base for the bag. If a needle-book is desired as well as a pincushion, take two circular leaves of flannel, pink them out at the edges and secure them v/ith a few stitches to the pincushion. Cut another circle of card, cover it with sateen on both sides very neatly, sew it to the pincusbion for about an inch ; at the opposite edge to this sewing, fasten on two strings of ribbon to tie the flap to the pincushion, and thus preventing it from fallmg untidily about when not in use. Now take a piece of cretonne, measuring 20 inches by 14. Join it down the sides and make a hem at the top 2 inches wide, with a stitching two-thirds of the way down ; cut two button-holes oppo- site one another in the running thus made. Into this must be run a double string of ribbon in the old-fashioned style, so that by pulling both the mouth of the bag is closed. Gather the other end of the cretonne slightly and sew it on the wrong side to the flat pincushion already prepared, so that when it is turned right side ou ter-most, the needle-book is outside the bag. Lady's Ch.emise, composed of the best Longcloth, with Trimmings of Embroidery and Insertion, full size. Post free for 2,s-. ll.d, 3s. lid. and 4s, 6d. Princess Shape, the neck and sleeves Trimmed Embroidery. Price 3s. lid. The front fully trimmed with Insertion. Price 4s. 6rf., post free. Lady's Knickerbockers, best quality and well finished, 2s. 6d., 2s. lid., 8s. 6ri. and Ss. lid., post free. Lady's fuU-size Niirlit Dresses, fronts handsomely trimmed and made in .- best guality loDgeloth. . Post free foi' 2s. lid., SsTllrf., 4s. 6d. and 4s, llrf. - Address,' Mrs; Leach, 37, New Kent Eoad, London, S.E. 160 BEAD WORK. Now that beads ar e so much worn, a f e w hints to make wire mounted sprays may be acceptable to our readers. Fig. i is ex- tremely simple of execution, and can be reproduced in black, Tji gold, or silver beads for millinery or dress ornaments. It can also be made thus — 3 of the outlined petals in bugles and the re- maining 6 in round ones, or contrasting hue. Bronze and gold would look well ; their respective wires are firmly twisted together, and when all are fas- tened according to pattern, filoselle is wound round and round to conceal the wires. Fig,; 2 is shaped by commencing with the top oval by threading a number of beads on a good length of wire. Suppose you thread 20, close the oval and pass the 2 wires through 6 beads for the stalk. With one' end. of the wire, thread another 20, unite them and slip i or 2 beads over the 2 wires, then separate the wires, and with a single end make an oval .on the opposite side:. Continue in this manner, first on the right hand and then on the left, till you have got- the length you wish the leaf to be. Twist the ends firmly and cover with a narrow strip of paper, such as used by florists, or silk to match your beads. Then thread a long string of beads and twine it twice round each petal, either in the same coloured beads or a contrast. Black ovals and gold colour outside have a very pretty effect. Fig. 3 is leaves made by threading 10 beads ; join in a circle, leaving on either side an end of wire sufficient to support 6 more rings ; press the ring to obtain the shape, and add I bead after the joining of each circle, and while the wire is still double, then separate. This will elongate them. With a little practice a rose, lily, or fuchsia can be imitated by using coloured beads according to nature as far as possible, and look very pretty mixed wiih green moss for borders of mats. Pig, cer THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. COT PILLOW CASE. The size of the pillow which this case fits is 244 inches by 15, inches. It is the usual oblong shape. To make a pair of slips i requires S7h inches of linen, 35 inches wide. It prevents a sligh' waste to males two together. To make one case it takes 30J inches. For the two cases cut two pieces of linen by the thread into lengths of 27 inches ; this leaves a piece of 3^ inches, which will make the laps for both. Divide it exactly in h,ilf so as to have two pieces measuring 3^ inches by lyi inches. Fold one of the lengths of 27 inches carefully lengthwise down the centre, make a slit down the fold at one end for 2^ inches. Turn down a hem of an inch in depth and hem it on the right side. Take a piece of linen for the lap, fold it the whole way across, turning up i J inches in the fold, and thus leaving the lap when folded 2 inches in depth. Tack the pillow case neatly together across the end which is not hemmed, and down the side at the edges of the linen. When you come to the hem lay the lap along the end, with the edge to the edge of the pillow case, and with the fold of I4 inch next the case and over the hem, completely covering it. Tack it firmly all across and round the corner where you made the slit. Cut out a piece of paper in scallops of ij inches, pin it all along pretty close to the edge, and trace out the shape of the scallops with a pencil on the linen all round. Take care to place them evenly so that the four corners may all be turned alike. Pencil a turn to each corner. When it is properly traced stitch the pencilling closely all round, being careful to catch in all the plies of linen where the lap and hem cross each other. Then cut out the shape of the scallops at the edge, leaving a sufficient margin to prevent the linen fi'aying when the work is turned. Now turn the pillow case to what will be the right side, and with the rounded side of the point of a pair of scissors press out each scallop to make it lie flat. When they all lie properly in their places tack the pillow case lightly all round to keep it firm ; then exactly an_ inch from the points of the scallops draw straight lines with a, pencil aeross each end and side. Along these lines work a row.of fea,ther stitch with coarse crochet cotton. Sew buttons oh the lap aind work corresponding button-holes on the hem. Your pillow case is now completed. For larger sized pillow •^ cases a broader margin should be left all round, and a row of feather-stitch \\ orked along the edge of the scallops. Another nice plan of making pillow cases is to prepare it all on the right side, putting the lap under instead of over the hem ; next work the straight lines of feather stitch, leaving a margin of ij or 2 inches beyond them all round. On this margin trace the pattern of an embroidery edging and work it on the double linen with No. 10 embroidery cotton, button-holing the edges. Mr. Briggs's transfer patterns are excellent for this. To complete it a monogram may be embroidered in the centre. PETTICOAT AND BODICE COMBINED, For Child i Year Old. . -^ ^ Materials required; — No. 2 Co- V* . ffi., j coon wool, 2 long steel needles, No. |""™^^jp'W^ 12. You had better put sealing-wax knobs at the end of the needles, as you can get steel needles 12 inches long, and they are much easier to work with than the shorter 9-inch ^ size, for a piece of work such as this. ff You work the petticoat in 2 strips, \ back and front alike. Cast on loosely 144 stitches. The pattern is vandyke pattern. ist row — * wool forward, knit 5 plain, knit 2 together, knit 5 plain ; repeat from * to end of row. 2nd and every succeeding row — just like the ist row, until you have done 60 rows in all. You have your work Vj ■» 'i in Vandykes. You must now de- - - crease the work. ist row of de- creasmg— you have 12 stitches to each vandyke, * wool forward, knit 3 plain, take 2 together, take 2 together again, knit 3 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the row. This decreases 2 stitches in each Vandyke, so that at the end of this row you have 10 stitches m each vandyke, instead of 12, as in the previous rows, and 120- \ *!i when you have finished the row, instead of 144. ("Take 2 together " means the same as " knit 2 together " in this case). 2nd row — without decreasing, * wool forward, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, knit 4 plain, and repeat from * to the end of the row. 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th rows — like the 2nd row. 7th row from com- mencing to decrease — * wool forward, knit 2 plain, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2 together again, knit 2 plain ; repeat from * ; this gives you 8 stitches in each vandyke, and 96 in the whole row. 8th row — * wool forward, knit 3 plain, knit 2 together, knit 3 plain, and repeat from * to the end of row. 9th, loth, and iith rows — like the 8th. 12th row — decrease again. You have 8 stitches to each vandyke, * wool forward, knit i plain, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2 together again, knit i plain ; this gives you 72 stitches in the row. 13th row — knit plainly along the 72 stitches. 14th row — this is a row of holes for the waist, knit 3 plain, * wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 plain, repeat from * to end of row, knit the last 3 stitches of the row plain ; this makes it a little firmer than if there was a hole just at the end and beginning of the row. 15th row — plain knitting along the 72 stitches. 16th row — wool forward, knit i plain, purl 2, * knit 2 plain, purl 2 ; repeat from * to the end of the row. You have i purl stitch at the end and 72 '" the row now. 17th row — * knit 2 plain, purl 2, and repeat from * to end of row. This odd stitch at the end of each row makes the i^attern (honeycomb, a very pretty, easy and elastic stitch) ; repeat the 17th row till you can count 50 rows of honey- comb pattern. For a little border for the top of the bodice work as follows: — 1st row — * knit 2 together, knit i plain, wool forward, knit I ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row — purl back, repeat the ist and 2nd rows of border till you have knitted 12 rows in all, or until the bodice is deep enough. When the bodice is deep enough cast off across the neck, until you have 15 stitches only left on the needle. Work the shoulder on these 15. For the shoulder-strap, ist row — * knit 2 plain, 2 purl ; repeat from * to end. You leave an odd stitch for the honeycomb pattern. 2nd row and other rows — repeat the ist row until you have a piece ij or 2 inches long for the shoulder strap, cast off. Proceed from the commencement for the other side of the petticoat. This petticoat slips over the baby's head, and has not any opening down the back ; therefore you must leave good wide armholes and make the whole thing very elastic, and have strings in waist and neck to draw it up. If for a larger baby, or you knit at all tightly, use No. 10 needles instead of No. 12 ; also instead of ilie 12th rov: (which is a decrease row) and the i^th row, knit the following: — 12th row, for large baby, instead of 12th row given above,* knit i, purl i, and repeat from * to end of row. 13th row — for large baby, instead of 13th row given above in pattern, * knit i, purl i, and repeat from* to end of row. By using these 2 rows instead of those in the bodice of the pattern, you will have 96 stitches instead of 72 in the bodice, quite a difference you will find in size. It is much better to make babies' things fully large, they grow so fast. If the child outgrows it you can let a piece of flannel in down the front, and cut the back open and bind the edges, adding buttons or strings. In doing this always sew on the goods before cutting the knitting. A little care this way prevents the work running down. Never under any circumstances let a child have anything tujht across the ch-est. Let no motives of economy, as you call it, induce you to do it. Rather have an opening cut in the garment, and a scrap of goods tacked in, or even a hole. A hole can be mended and a new garment bought when money comes, but you can never make a contracted chest good again, whatever you do or whatever you pay. Do not weigh a matter of appearance against a lifetime's good. While we are on this subject, permit us also to make another plea for the children in the matter of their feet. We know of old that boots are a terrible expense, but, for all that, don't have them mended after they become in the least tight or short. We do not think it a good plan to get too durable and good boots for children if they are growing fast. You cannot afford to throw away a good shoe, and yet you should do so sooner than let your child wear it, when too small. A very good plan is to have your boy's winter stockings on, then fit a shoe to his foot with a cork sole in it. When spring comes you can remove the cork sole, and the shoe is large enough for summer. This is a plan for a good Sunday winter boot. If you take care of your child's feet, he will surely bless you for the freedom and immunity from corns which he will enjoy later, and teach your children that it is far handsomer and more righteous in every respect to have a well-shaped natural foot than one in a size of boot too small for it, and which is too crippled by corns to be useful. The above is away from our subject of petticoats, but quite as useful. We said nothing about colour for the petticoat ; grey, scarlet, white, pink or blue, if you can get them fast colours, mil all do. Crochet a sleeve if you wish one, and also_ a border round the bottom is optional. 161 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. SHORT-COATING PETTICOAT FOR CHILD. Ektremely good for Washing and Wearing. Materials :— about 2 hanks of white Alliance yarn, and 4 steel needles, No. 10. Long needlesare best for a petticoat ; you work this petticoat in rounds like a stock- ing. Cast on very loosely 8 r stitches on each of 3 pins, ist round—* knit 8 plain, purl I, and repeat from * to the end of the round. You had bjtter purl a mark in as to which is the end of the round, so you do not have confusion in your pattern. 2nd round — * knit 7 plain, purl 2, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 3rd round—* knit 6 plain, purl 3, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 4th knit 5 plain, purl 4, and repeat from * to end of round _, , , ^ ., . a. ■ round. 5th round—* knit 4 plain, purl 5, and repeat from * to end of round. 6th round—* knit 3 plain, purl 6, and repeat from * to the end of round. 7th round—* knit 2 plain, purl 7, and repeat from * to the end of round. 8th round—* knit i plain, purl 8, and repeat from * to end of round. 9th round— * knit 2 plain, purl 7, and repeat from * to end of round. loth round—* knit 3 plain, purl 6, and repeat from * to end of round. nth round—* knit 4 plain, purl 5, and repeat from * to end of round. 12th round—* knit 5 plain, purl 4, and repeat from * to end of round. 13th round- -* knit 6 plain, purl 3, and repeat from * to end of round. 14th round—* knit 7 plain, purl 2, and repeat from* to end of round. 15th round—* knit 8 plain, purl i, and repeat from * to end of round. Repeat from the 2nd round to the 15th 4 times more, then you will have 5 sets of patterns. You now begin to narrow, and do not work the pattern above described any more, but work as follows: put a mark at the beginning of the round, ist round— you have 81 stitches on each needle, 9 patterns on each needle, and 9 stitches to each pattern, making 81 in all. You knit this round plain, and decrease by knitting the first 3 stitches of each pattern together thus you decrease 9 times in each needle, making 7 stitches left to each pattern, 9 patterns as before to each needle, and making 63 stitches on each needle, and 189 in the whole round. 2nd round — * knit 2, purl 2, and repeat from * all the way round. If the end of the needle comes in the middle of "purl 2," never mind, go light on knitting 2 and purl 2 just as it comes, all the way round. 3rd round — purl i, * knit 2 plain, purl 2, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd round until you have done 22 rounds in all. 23rd round — * knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. This will give you about 158 stitches in the whole round. 24th round— knit plainly round, decreasing 8 stitches in the whole round, so you have 1 50 at the end of the round. Do it in this way — * knit 17 plain, knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round; there will be 6 plain stitches at the end of the round after the last decreasing, and you will have 150 altogether. 25th round — make a round of holes for the waist as follows : * knit i plain, wool forward, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 26th round—* knit 2 plain, 2 purl, and repeat from* to the end of the round. 27th round— purl i * knit 2 plain, 2 purl, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Repeat the 26th and 27th rounds till you can count 14 rounds after the round of holes for the waist. If for a short waisted baby only do 12 rounds. Now divide for the armholes. You work the remainder of the bodice in rows. Divide as follows : — ist row — begin at the usual place so as to keep the pattern right, and * knit 2 plain, purl 2, as usual, and repeat from * till you have worked 75 stitches ; you leave off at a purl stitch. 2nd row (the back row) — * knit 2, purl 2, and repeat from * to end of row. 3rd and every succeeding row like the 2nd row, until you can count about 42 rows from where you commenced the armhole, then cast off on the 43rd row, to within J I stitches of the end. When you have only 11 stitches, work on these 1 1 stitches about 8 or 10 short rows to form a shoulder strap, when the strap is the required length cast off. Work the other side exactly the same way, making a shoulder strap at the end of the row. You make a shoulder strap to each side, and then join the end of the strap to the opposite side. This is easier than making 4 very little straps, and joining them on the top of the shoulder. When the straps a.'.e joined and your petticoat is made, crochet an edge round the neck and sleeves, work as follows. Edge for neck and sleeves — join the wool to the work with a crochet hook, * make 5 chain, i single crochet in the 3rd chain frorti the hook, I single crochet in the 4th from the hook, now miss i loop of the knitting, i double crochet in the next loop of the knitting. 162 Repeat from * to the end of the work, taking it right round each arm- hole and round the neck. Run a string in the waist and one in the neck if desired. A lady who has used a petticoat almost identical with this writes :— " I can highly recommend this petticoat for wear, and made in Alliance yarn, it is splendid for lasting. My own little boy had two of these petticoats when he was short-coated ; they were washed dozens of times, and he wore them a year and a half The slight drawback to the wool, in my idea, is that it is not as white as many wools, but it is unparalleled as far as my experience goes for washing and wear." THE CREEVE FA.SCINATOR. A Knitted He.\d Comfort. Materials required : — 2 skeins of blue and i skein of white merino fingering wool, best quality, 2 bone knitting needles. No. 8, standard wire gauge, and one yard and a quarter of blue ribbon, about one and three quarter inches wide. The ribbon should be the same shade of blue as the wool, rather a pale blue. Cast on with the white wool 65 stitches. 1st row — knit plain, and row— knit purl stitches. 3rd row — knit plain. 4th row — join on the blue wool and use it double, leav- ingthewhite wool,* knit 5 stitches plain, f make a stitch, by putting wool over the needle, knit i stitch plain, repeat from t 6 times more, then repeat from * 5 times more, and end the row with 5 plain stitches. 5th row — * knit 5 stitches plain, t make a stitch, slip off the made stitch in the last row and knit i stitch plain, repeat from t 6 times more, and then repeat from * 5 times more ; end the row with 5 plain stitches. 6th row — * knit 5 purl stitches, f slip off the made stitch of last row, make a stitch, purl i stitch, repeat from t 6 times more, and then repeat from * 5 times more. 7th row — same as 2nd row. 8th row — leaving the blue wool, and using the white wool, knit a plain row, slipping off the made stitches of last row. 9th row — purl. loth row — plain. There should be 65 stitches across the row. Repeat from 4th row. Work another stripe of blue, remembering to use the blue wool double. There should now be 3 stripes of white wool (used single) and 3 stripes of blue (used double). Work 2 more plain rows with white wool, and in the 3rd row of the white work thus : knit 3 stitches purl, then purl 2 stitches together 9 times, purl 41 stitches, purl 2 stitches together 9 times, purl 3 stitches. 28th row — knit with white wool plain. 29th row — * with blue wool double, knit 3 plain stitches, t make a stitch, knit I stitch plain, repeat from t 6 times more, then repeat from * 3 times more, and end the row with knit plain. 30th row — * knit 3 plain stitches, t make a stitch, slip off the made stitch in last row, knit i stitch plain, repeat from t 6 times more, then repeat from * 3 times more ; end row with knit plain. 31st row — same as 6th row, but repeat- ing the pattern 3 times instead of 5 times. 32nd row — same as 2nd row, but repeating pattern 3 times more instead of 5 times more. Now knit 4 rows with white wool, same as the white rows were worked before. Work a 5th stripe of blue same way as 4th stripe of blue was worked, 6th stripe of white same as 5th stripe of white, 6th stripe of blue same as 4th stripe of blue, then work 2 rows of white plain. 51st row — with the white wool, purl i stitch, purl 2 stitches together 9 times, purl 9 stitches, purl 2 stitches together 9 times ; end row with purl. 52nd row — knit plain, continue with a blue stripe same as before, but only knitting i stitch plain at beginning of the row, then a white stripe ; repeat these blue and white stripes till there are 9 blue stripes and 10 white stripes knit- ted from the commencement. Cast off, and gather the cast off stitches tightly together. Trim all round with the following edge, from right-hand corner where the Fascinator was commenced to the left-hand corner. Cast on 12 stitches with the blue wool, using it single, ist row— knit plain. 2nd row— knit 9 stitches plain. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. and turn back, and purl the 9 stitches last knitted, knit 3 plain stitches. 3rd row — knit plain. 4th row — knit 3 stitches plain, •purl 9 stitches. 5th row — knit plain. 6th row — ^join on the white wool, and knit plain, leaving the blue wool. 7th row — purl 9 stitches, knit 3 stitches plain. 8th row — knit 3 stitches plain, then * make 2 stitches by putting wool twice round the needle, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one; repeat from * twice more. 9th row — * purl 2 stitches, knit I stitch plain (the two last stitches are knitted where the wool was put twice round the needle) ; repeat from * twice more. Repeat from first row, remembering to use the blue wool. For a deeper edge, which is required to trim the Fascinator across the bottom, cast on 24 stitches with blue wool, ist row — plain. 2nd row — knit 21 stitches plain and turn b.-'.ck, and purl the 21 stitches last knitted, knit 3 plain stitches. 3rd row — knit plain. 4th row — knit 3 stitches plain, purl 21 stitches. 5th row — knit plain. 6th row — join on white wool, leaving the blue wool, and knit the row plain. 7th row — purl 21 stitches, knit 3 stitches plain. 8th row — knit 3 stitches plain, then * make 2 stitches by putting wool twice round the needle, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch ; repeat from * 6 times more. 9th row — * purl 2 stitches, knit i stitch plain (the last two stitches are knitted where the wool was put twice round the needle in last row) ; i-epeat from * 6 times more. Repeat from ist row, remembering to change to the blue wool. Sew on the trimmings. 34 patterns and a half will be required of the narrow edge, finish- ing it with blue, and 22 and a half of the wider edge, also finishing it with blue. Sew on strings with the blue ribbon, putting them just where the wider edge is sewed to the narrow edge. FASCINATOR OR CLOUD. For this fas- cinator 2 ozs. of pale blue Andalusian wool are re- quired, 3 ozs. pfwhite double Berlin wool, a pair of very thick wooden pins measur- ing about one inch and a half in circum- ference, that is, a good deal thicker than an ordinary lead pencil, and 2 yards of pale blue ribbon about an inch andahalfwide. The average cost is as fol- 1 o w s : — o n e shilling for the white wool, ten-pence for the blue, eight- pence for the pins, and six- pence for the ribbon, mak- ing a total of three shillings. The prices given for the wools may differ slightly from this, according to the standard of the shop at which they are purchased. Cast on 60, with the white wool, and knit backwards and forwards in ordinary plain knitting for two rows. At the end of the second row, do not break off the white wool, but join the blue and knit two rows with it. When this is done, leave the rest of the blue wool loose and pull up the white, knit two rows with thie and continue to knit two rows of white and blue alternately until a scarf is made measuring nearly two yards in length, that is about a hundred and sixty-four rows. Cast off, and with a needleful of white wool draw the ends up quite closely. Finish off one end with a good full tassel of the blue wool, and the other with a pretty bow of pale blue ribbon. The bow is intended to rest on the top of the head, the rest of the cloud is brought round the neck and shoulders, and the end thrown again over the back. The manufacture of it will be found easy, quick work, and as it does not require much looking at, is suiuble for those whose eyesight is not very good, or for ten minutes' twilight work "between the lights." The fascinators have the advantage of being extremely light in weight (5^ ozs. only), and the two kinds of wool used render them very elastic. These clouds are much appreciated by ladies who go out a great deal in the evening, and the light blue will be found very becoming to a fair young face, but endless are the changes that may be rung on the colours. Pale pink and white, gold and black, black and white, two shades of grey, or crimson and very pale blue, are all satisfactory in effect. COLLAR FOR LITTLE BOY. This pretty and useful collar is knitted with either fine crochet cotton, or loom thread, which can be had from A. E. K., Box 10, Post Office, Ballymena. Linen thread, made from flax, is also suitable, and it can be procured from Messrs. WilKam Barbour and Sons, Limited, Lisburn, Ireland. Loom thread is a rich cream or ficru colour. Barbour's linen thread can be had in different shades. Our model was made from loom thread. 2 steel knitting needles, No. 17 standard wire gauge are required, and I skein of loom thread, which contains a very long length, would mal»e collar and cuffs to match. Cast on 28 stitches, ist row — slip a slitch, knit 2 stitches plain, make a stitch by putting thread over needle, knit 2 stitches together, knit 23 stitches plain. 2nd row— purl 22 stitches, and turn back and knit 22 stitches plain. 3rd row — purl 22 stitches knit 3 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i stitch plain. 4th row — knit 3 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 23 stitches plain. 5th row — purl 22 stitches, turn back and knit 22 stitches plain. 6th row— knit 25 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i stitch plain. 7th row — knit 3 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i stitch plain, purl 22 stitches. 8th row — knit 2 stitches plain, * make 2 stitches by putting thread twice round the needle, knit 3 together, thus — slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitches, work thus when directed to knit 3 together — repeat from * 6 times more, knit 2 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i stitch plain. 9th row — knit 3 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, * knit i stitch plain, purl i stitch (knitting these last 2 stitches where the thread was put over the needle twke in last row), purl I stitch, repeat from * 6 times more. loth row — knit 25 stitches plain, make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit i stitch plain. Repeat from ist row till there are 36 patterns knitted, then work the ist 6 rows again and cast off. To make the cord, double the thread and use it 4 ply, that is, have 4 threads, and with a crochet hook make a chain nearly a yard long, and put it through the open work at top of the collar. Make two little tassels of the same thread, and sew them to the chain after the chain has been put through the collar. Cuffs can be made to match the collar by knitting iS or 20 patterns, same as the collar, finishing off the same way. KNITTED SQUARES FOR COUNTERPANES. E.ASY Work for Old People and Children. Materials required are any odds and ends of wool you may have by you and 2 bone or steel knitting pins to suit the size of wool used. You cast on 24 stitches and work in plain knitting a square ; either sew or crochet up into diamonds ; it is better to crochet them together on the right side in double crochet. When you have \Torked up all your odds and ends of wool you might get about J lb. of some good washing colour, and work a border all round of 3 treble, i chain, increasing at each corner, work 4 or 5 rows like this, and if you have any wool of different colours left, you might fringe it into each hole ; if not make a scallop of 7 long treble into i hole and, i double crochet stitch into next, 7 long treble into next, and finish all round the counterpane in same way It would be found such nice- easy work for old people who cannot see to do finer kni ting, and. b5 useful as well. ' " res THE FANCY WORK-BASKET CHEVRON PATTERN, For Curtains and Antimacassars. No. lo crochet cotton, and rather coarse steel pins should be used. Cast on 50 stitches for each pattern, ist row — *knit 4, knit 3 together, knit 5, over and knit 2 together 6 times, repeat from *, knit 2. You now have 46 stitches on your needle. 2nd row — purl 19, over, purl l, over, purl 21, over, purl i, over, purl 4. 3rd row — knit 11, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 3. You have 50 stitches on your needle. 4th row — purl. 5th row — knit 10, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 4. 6th row — purl. 7th row — knit 9, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 5. 8th row — purl. 9th row — knit S, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, knit 4, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 6. You now have 48 stitches on your needle. loth row — purl 23, over, purl i, over, purl 24. You have 50 stitches on your needle, nth row — knit 7, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 7. You now have 48 stitches on your needle. 12th row — purl 22, over, purl 3, over, purl 23. You have 50 on needle. 13th row — knit 6, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 6, knit 3 together, knit 3, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 8. 14th row — purl 23, over, purl I, over, purl 24. 15th row — knit 5, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 9. i6th row — purl. 17th row — knit 4, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, over, and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 10. You now have 50 on needle. 18th row — purl. 19th row — knit 3, over and knit 2 together6 times, knit 12, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 11. 20th row — purl. 21st row — knit 2, * over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit l, knit 2 together, knit 4, repeat from *. You have 46 on your needle. 22nd row — purl 5, over, purl I, over, purl 21, over, purl I, over, purl 18. You have 50 stitches on your needle. 23rd row — knit i, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 to- gether, knit 2, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3. You now have 46 on your needle. 24th row — purl 4, over, puil 3, over, purl 19, over, purl 3, over, purl 17. You have 50 stitches on your needle. 25th row-^knit 2, * over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 4, knit 3 together, knit 5, re- peat from *. You have 46 stitches on your needle. 26th row — purl 5, over, purl i, over, purl 21, over, purl i, over, purl 18. You have 50stitches on your needle. 27th row — like the 19th row. 28th row — purl. 29th row — knit 4, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 10. 30th row — purl. 31st row — knit 5, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 9. 32nd row — purl. 33rd row — knit 6, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, knit 4, over, and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 8. You have 48 stitches on your needle. 34th row — purl 25, over, purl i, over, purl 22, 35th row — knit 7, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit I, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 4, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 7. 36th row— purl 24, over, purl 3, over, purl 21. 37th row — knit 8, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 7, over and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 5. Leaving 48. 38th row — purl 25, over purl i, over, purl 22. Leav- ing 50 on needle. 39th row— knit 9, over, and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, over and knit 2 together 6 times knit 5. 40th row — purl. 164 THE CHEVRON LACE. Suitable for edging Curtains, &c., in Chevron Pattern. Cast on 34 stitches and knit i plain row, this is for a foundation, ist row of pattern — slip I, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit I, make 3, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit i. 2nd row — make i, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 1, knit 7, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 4, purl l, knit 3, purl i, knit 5. 3rd row — slip I, knit i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2, together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 8, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 4. 4th row — make i, knit 6, purl i, knit 11, purl i,knit 3, purl i, knit 8, purl I, knit 3. 5th row — slip i, knit .3, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 7. 6th row — make i, knit 9, purl i, knit 7, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 8, purl i, knit 5. 7th row — slip I, knit I, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2,'knit 2 together, knit io.'5_8th row — make i, knit i, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 8, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 3. 9th row — slip I, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 13. loth row — make l, knit 15, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 8, purl I, knit 3, purl i, knits. "th row — slip I, knit i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit i, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 16. 12th row — knit 2 together, knit 16, purl I, knit 4, purl l, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl J, knit 3, purl I, knit 3. 13th row- — slip I, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 13. 14th row — knit 2 together, knit 13, purl I, knit 3, purl I, knit 8, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 5. 15th row — slip I, knit I, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, malce 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 10. l6th ro\v— knit 2 together, knit 10, purl i, knit 3, purl i,knit 3, purl i, THF FANCY WORK-BASKET. knit 8, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 3. 17th row— slip i, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 7. iSth row — knit 2 together, knit 7, purl i, knit 7, purl i,knit 3, purl I, knit 8, purl I, knits. 19th row— slip i, knit i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 8, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 4. 20th row — knit 2 together, knit 4, purl I, knit II, purl I, knit 3, purl I, knit 8, purl i, knit 3. Repeatfrom ist row. STAR PATTERN. Makes up into pretty toilet or ottoman covers. No. 10 knitting cotton, and No. 16 knitting pins, 4 needles. Cast on 8 stitches thus : 3 on each of the ist and 2nd needles, and 2 stitches on the 3rd needle. Knit 1 plain round, and every alternate row after the pattern row. 2nd row — * cotton forward, knit I, repeat from * all round. 4th row — * cotton forward, knit 2, repeat from * all round. 5th row — * cotton forward, knit 3, repeat from * all round. 8th row — * cotton forward, knit 4, repeat from * all round. loth row — * cotton lorward, knit 5, repeat from *all round. 12th row — * cotton forward, knit 6, repeat from * all round. 14th row — * cotton forward, knit 7, I'epeat from * all round. There are now 24 stitches on each of 2 pins, and 16 on the 3rd. i6th row — * forward, knit i, forward, narrow, knit 5, repeat from * all round. i8th row — * forward, knit 3, forward, narrow, knit 4, repeat from * all round. 20th row — * forward, knit 5, forward, narrow, knit 3, repeat from * all round. 22nd row — * forward, knit 7, forward, narrow, knit 2, repeat from * all round. 24th row — * forward, knit g, forward, narrow, knit I, repeat from * all round. 26th row — * forward, knit 11, forwardj narrow, repeat from * all round. 28th row — * forward, knit i, forward, narrow, knit 11, repeat from * all round. 30th row — * forward, knit i, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 10, repeat from * all round. 32nd row — * forward, knit i, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 9, repeat from * to end of round. 34th row — * forward, knit I, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 8, repeat. 36th row — * forward, knit i, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 7, repeat. 38th row — * forward, knit i, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 6, repeat. 40th row — * forward, knit i, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 5, repeat. 42nd row — * forward, knit I, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 4, repeat. 44th row — * forward, knit I, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 3, repeat. 46th row — * forward, knit i, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit 2, repeat. 48th row — * forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, forward, narrow, knit i, repeat from * to end of round. Cast ofif. RAISED LEAF BORDER. For Raised Leaf Quilt. Use the same needles and cotton as quilt. Cast on 31 stitches, 1st row — cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit i, forward and knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 15, forward, knit 2 together, knit I. 2nd — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit to the end of row. 3rd — forward, knit 2 together, knit I, forward and knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 16, forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 4th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, forward, knit I, for^vard, knit to the end. 5th — forward, knit 2 together, knit i, forward and knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 9, purl 3, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 6th— knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, forward, knit I, forward, knit to the end. 7th —forward, knit 2 together, knit i, forward and knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 10 purl 5, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit i. Sth — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 8, forward, knit I, forward, knit to the end. 9th — forward, knit 2 together, knit i, forward and knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 11, purl 7, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit I. loth — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 9, forward, knit i, forward, knit to the end. nth — forward, knit 2 together, knit i, for- ward, knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 12, purl 9, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit l. 12th— knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 10, forward, knit I, forward, knit to the end. 13th — forward, knit 2 together, knit i, forward and knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 13, purl 11, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit l. 14th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit n, forward, knit i, forward, knit to the end. 15th — forward, knit 2 together, knit I, forward and knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 14, purl 13, knit 7, forward and knit 2 together, knit i . i6th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 12, forward, knit i, forward, knit to the end. 17th — forward, knit 2 together, knit i, forward, and knit 2 together 5 times, forward, knit 15, purl 15, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 18th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 13, forward, knit I, forward, knit to the end. 19th — forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, forward and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 13, purl 17, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 20th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 13, knit 2 together, knit to the end. 21st — iorward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, forward and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 12, purl 15, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 22nd — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit to the end. 23rd — forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, forward and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 11, purl 13, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit I. 24th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit to the end. 25th — forward, knit 2 together, " knit 2 together, forward and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 10, purl 11, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit I. 26th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit to the end. 27th — forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, for- ward and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 9, purl 9, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit I. 28th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit to the end. 29th — forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, forward and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 8, purl 7, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 30th — knit 165 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit to the end. 31st — forward, knit 2 togetlier, knit 2 together and forward knit 2 together 6 times, knit 7, purl 5, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. 32nd — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, knit to the end. 33rd — forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, forward and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 6, purl 3, knit 7, forward, knit 2 together, knit I. 34th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit i, knit to the end. 35th — forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, forward and knit 2 together 6 times, knit 5, purl 2, knit7, forward, knit 2 together, 1; nit I. 36th — knit 2, forward, knit 2 toCTPther, knit 6, knit 2 together, 1 nit to the end. ■ DIAMOND PATTERN. Cast on 8 stitches for each pattern. 1st row — * make i, knit 7, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together ; repeat from "-. 2nd row— purl. 3rd row— * make i, knit 3, make i,knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together ; repeat from *. 4th row — purl. 5th roAv — * make i, knit 5, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over ; repeat from *. 6th row — purl. 7th row — * knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make I ;■ repent from *. 8th row— purl. 9th row—* knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make I ; repeat from *. loth row — purl, mh row—" make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 5 ; repeat from *. 12th row — purl. I3ih row—* make i, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together; repeat from *. 14th row — purl. 15th row — * make 1, knit 5, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over ; repeat from *. l5th row— purk 17th row — * knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make I, knit l, make i ; repeat from *. iSlh row— purk 19th row — * knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i : repeat from *. 20th row — pmi. 2ist row—* make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stii Commci (C over, make i, knit 5 ; repeat from *. 22nd row — pui again at ist row. KILT PLAIT PATTERN. .Suitable for Skirt?, Petticoats, &c. Cast on any niunber of stitches divisible by 11. There are 1 1 stitches in e\ery row of each pattern, and 10 rows in each pattern. Ibt I'ow — 10 plain and i purl. 2nd row — 2 plain and 9 purl. 3id row — 8 plain and 3 purl. 4th row — 4 plain and 7 purl. 5th row — 6 plain and 5 purl. 6th row — 6 plain and 5 purl. 7th row — 4 plain and 7 purl 8th row — 8 plain and 3 purl. gth row — 2 plain and 9 purl. loth row— I o plain and i purl. This completes one pattern. Repeat from first row. This pattern makes a very serviceable petticoat for both children and grov.'n up people. For a child of five, it requires 253 stitches which leaves 23 pat- terns, and for a grown-up person, it requires 506 stitches knitted in two breadths ; there is no special way of taking it in. Some people knit purl and plain at the top, but we prefer it all the one pattern. The way we take it in is when about 6 patterns from the top, we take one in in each pattern for 5 patterns and not take in at all in the last pattern, then put a row of crochet round the top and draw a string through it, or sew it on a Swiss band. Never take in the 1st stitch in any pattern, as it forms the kilt. KNITTED BED-REST FOR INVALIDS. Hammock-Fashion. Materials required : — About i lb. of the coarsest and best white ' knitting cotton you can procure, Strutt's is most suitable, 2 bone 166 knitting pins, with knobs at the ends, to match the size of cotton. Commence by casting on 34 stitches, and work in plain knitting (always slipping the ist stitch in every row) for 276 rows, on 38 ridges ; this is for the end to tie it on to the bed post. You now knit 6 plain, knit the next stitch, but before taking it off the left pin pass the right pin into the back of the same stitch ; this is to increase i stitch in every row, which is done in the same way at the beginning of each row, knit the rest plain, work no rows or 50 ridges in this way; you then knit' — 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows' plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 ro\\'s plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, 4 rows plain, 4 rows purl, making 17 ridges of purl, and 16 ridges of plain. You must now decrease to match the other side; by knitting 5 plain, then knit the 6th and 7th stitches together, and knit the rest plain ; continue to work like this, decreasing in every row until you have only 34 stitches left on the pin ; this completes the centre of Bed- rest, which holds the invalid up in bed. Now.-^work these 34 stitches backwards and forwards for 276 rows or 138 ridges. Cast off. Tie each end very firmly round the bed p'oSts, and let the invalid sit on the large part at one end of it, and then pull the rest up over the'shoulders, and put a pillow in if liked-, when it forms a most comfortable rest, and cannot hurt any one,'"it being so soft. It is very easy work to do, and suitable for old ladies to lake up of an evening'. ^BORDER FOR QUILT .- This border is knitted short- ways in small pieces which are afterwards joined. This is convenieeht in the working, as it avoids the discomfort of holding much in the hand. They may be made as broad as the worker chooses,- by simply allowing 19 stitches for each pattern and casting on accordingly. The design as here given is only two pat- terns wide. Cast on 38 stitches (of course with the same size of cotton and pins as ^used for, the quilt itself). ist row-- plain knitting. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4lh row — knit 2 together, knit 7, thread forward, knit i, thread forward, knit 7, knit 2 together twice, knit 7, thread forward, knit i, thread forward, knit 7, knit 2 together at the end. Sth row — purl. 6th row — same as 4th. Repeat these 2 rows until 10 rows are done, or till the 4th row has been worked 4 times, then continue as follows: — nth row — plain knitting. 12th row — purl 13th row — plain knitting. Commence again at the 4th row, and continue until you consider it deep enough to look well as a border. From 18 to 20 ribs is a good handsome depth to make it ; the lower edge is in a series of Vandykes, which gives a very pretty finish. PUDDING CLOTH. Materials required :- - 2 bone knitting pins. No. 10, some of the coarsest unbleached knitting cotton you can procure. You begin by casting on loosely 40 stitches. Knit 9 rows in plain knitting. loth row — thread before, and knit 2 stitches together, continue to work in this way to end of row ; then knit 5 rows in plain knitting. 1 6th row — put the thread before, and knit 2 stitches together to the end of row in same way ; cast off loosely. Now fasten a piece of tape at each end of the cloth, this is to tie it up with, and to that, .-it one end, fasten a long skewer to run through the holes, and fasten the sides together. The pudding will, of course, be in a - basin. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET T Arr "nr.iNc; Cast on 5 stitches and knit I plain row. 1st row —slip I, knit I, make i, knit 2 to- gether, and make 2 of the remaining stitch. 2nd row — slip I, knit 2, make I, knit 2 to- gether, knit together, knit i, make i, knit 2 make i, knit 2 6th row — slip I, I, knit 2 together, ci^ecpE'F 1. 3rd row-— slip i, knit I, make i, knit 2 make 2 of the other. 4th row — slip i, knit 3 together, knit i. 5th row— slip i, knit i, together, knit i, make 2, knit 2 together, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make knit I. 7th row — slip I, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 2 of the other. 8th row— slip i, knit 5, m.ake i, knit 2 together, knit I. 9th row^slip i, knit i, make I, knit 2 together, knit I, make 2, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together. loth row — slip I, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make I, knit 2 together, knit i. nth row— slip i, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. 12th row— slip I, knit 7, make I, knit 2 together, knit i. 13th row — slip I, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, * make 2, knit 2 together, repeat from *. 14th row — slip i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit I. 15th row — slip i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. 16th row — slip i, knit and cast off 9, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. CRIMEAN HELMET, OR HUNTING Cowl. This wool cap will be found most useful or those exposed to inclement weather, or for night use, as it can be pulled down over the neck and face, covering the mouth, and is much used and liked by cabmen, engine drivers, &c. Materials required : — J lb. of heather fingering wool, 4 knitting pins No. 12 or 13. Alloa wool or 3-ply wheeling yarn is the best for the purpose. Cast on 120 stitches, viz., 36 on 2 pins, 48 on the 3rd pin, knit 50 rows of 3 plain, and 3 purl, cast off 24 stitches, knit plain backwards and for- wards till there are 16 ridges. Cast on 24 stitches and join up again (this is to form the vizor of cap, or place for eyes), and knit 30 rows of 3 plain and 3 of purl. You must arrange your stitches so as to have 40 on each pin ; knit 4 rows purl ; in the 4th row purl every 9th and loth stitches together ; now 4 rows plain, in the 4th row knit every 8th and 9th stitches together ; 4 rows purl, in the 4th row purl every 7th and 8th stitches together ; 4 rows plain, in the 4th row knit every 6th and 7th stitches together ; 4 rows purl ; in the 4th row, purl every 5th and 6th stitches together ; 4 rows, plain, in the 4th row knit every 4th and 5th stitches together ; 4 rows purl, in the 4th row purl every 3rd and 4th stitches together. You now work i row quite plain, I row with every 2nci and 3rd stitches knit together, i row plain. Now narrow as fast you can, and cast off, when the helmet will be finished. WOOL BALLS. FOR Using Up Ends of Wool. You will want 2 knitting pins. No. 12, for single Berlin, and larger for coarser wool. Cast on 25 stitches, and work in plain knitting 16 stripes : 3 rows in black, 4 rows of 4 different colours between the rows of black, viz., 4 rows of scarlet, 3 rows of black, 4 rows of green, 3 rows of black, 4 rows of amber, 3 rows of black, 4 rows of lilac. All these have to be re- peated twice over ; white may be used for the foundation instead of black, if liked. Make a case of airy, thin material, cambric muslin or thin calico, and stuff it with wool, the knitted cover to be drawn over after. In sewing up top and bottom, sew up the coloured stripes first, and then all the black, or all the black first and the coloured ones after. These are so beautifully soft for any small child, and the fine wool ones just the size for a baby to hold ; and they look bright rolling on the floor. DRESS IN For a Child •^> TRICOT, of 4 Years. This dress, in fawn wool, outlined with cardinal jilk, has a long straight bodice, lot inches from front of neck to waist, and box- pleated skirt. On the outer fold of each box-pleat is a vandyked piece of tufted tricot. The sleeves and belt are in tufted tricot, and a Vandyke of the same is carried up the bodice on either side of a stripe of braided cord. The collar, 3 inches deep, is vandyked in the same manner round the outer edge. The Vandykes every - where are outlined with the cardinal silk. A narrow wool edging round neck, sleeves and bottom of skirt has also an outline of silk. The whole has a very elegant effect. A belt of tufted tricot girds the waist. Materials :— 7 ozs. of single Berlin wool, i skein of filoselle, 4 yards of fine silk cord to match filoselle, also 6 small silk buttons of the same tint, long crochet-hook, 9 or 8, according as the work is loose or slack. The skirt, bodice, collar, belt and sleeves are each made separately. For the skirt — make a chain of 41 stitches, work 21 double rows, now make the vandyked piece of tufted tricot for the 1st box-pleat. 22nd row — 1st half as usual ; 2nd half, draw the wool through 1 loop, then through 2 loops, * 3 chain for the 1st tuft, draw wool through 2 loops twice *. Repeat from * to * till there are 12 tufts of 3 chain with 2 tricot stitches between each, after the 12th tuft draw the wool through 2 loops 17 times. 23rd row — take up all the loops ; 2nd half, draw the wool through I loop, then through 2 loops twice, make 1st tuft of 3 chain between the 1st and 2nd tufts of last row, 2 tricot stitches, make 12 tufts with 2 tricot between each ; after the 12th work as usual to the end of row. 24th row— like 22nd, only that there must be 13 tufts instead of 12, and 16 tricot stitches after the 13th tuft. This makes the point of the Vandyke. 25th row— like 23rd. 26th row— like 22nd. This finishes the vandyke ; work 2 1 plain rows, and repeat the Vandyke alternately till there are 10 Vandykes \\orked, work 3 plain rows after the loth vandyke, join the skirt into a round by crocheting the two edges together on the inner side ; with 4 threads of the filoselle work round the vandyke on each pleat thus— draw the filoselle with the crochet needle under ist cross loop of the plain row nearest the tufts at the upper edge of the skirt, and with the loop still on the needle work a chain stitch, * take out the needle, put it under the next cross loop, draw the wool through and work a chain stitch ; * repeat all round the tutted strip, fastening off at upper edge of skirt. The silk row just described has the effect of being, as it really is, a chain with the flat side downward. At the extreme point of the vandyke, that is to say, beyond the chain just made at the 13th tuft work a stitch with 2 threads of silk over 3 rows of tricot, with a shorter sloping stitch at each side of it ; and the same at the two outer corners of the vandyke. NYork an edging round the bottom of the skirt thus— fasten on with the wool, not into, but under a chain of the skirt, 4 chain, I double crochet into 1st of the 4 chain just made, * miss a chain of the skirt, i double crochet under the next chain, 3 chain, double crochet into last double crochet * ; repeat from * to * til! the round is finished. Then with I thread of filoselle fasten on between i of the scallops just made, work i double crochet under the same chain of skirt as the double crochet of last round, drawing the loop up long so as to be quite easy, 2 chain, i slip-stitch in 2nd of 3 chain of last round, 2 chain, * repeat from * to * to the end and fasten off; this finishes the skirt. For the belt— make a chain of 112 stitches, take up the loops, draw the wopl through i loop, 167 draw THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. the wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, * repeat ; there will be 55 tufts, after the last tuft draw wool through 2 loops thrice. 2nd row — take up all the loops, draw the wool through i loop, then through 2 loops, * 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, * repeat till there are 55 tufts, after the 55th draw wool through 2 loops once ; repeat these 2" rows until you have 7 rows of tufts, i row plain tricot. Now turn the belt with the inner side towards you, fasten into the 1st stitch,- 4 chain, work 3 treble into the 2nd of the 4 chain just-made, * miss "2 loops on the belt, i double crochet into the 3rd, 2 chain, 3 treble into the double crochet just made, * repeat from * to * to the end ; work a row with i thread of filoselle, the same as that round the scallops at the bottom of the skirt ; repeat these 2 rows at the other edge of the belt. For each sleeve — 39 chain, ist row — take up the loops, draw wool through i loop, then through 2 loops, * 3 chain, draw wool through 2 loops twice, repeat from * 19 times. 2nd row — take up the loops, draw wool through i loop, * wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, repeat from * 16 times, wool through 2 loops 3 times. 3rd, 5th, 7th and 9th rows — like ist. 4th, 6th, 8th rows — like 2nd. loth row — plain tricot ; work scallops like those round skirt edged with filoselle. The collar is made in two pieces — for each piece make a chain of 58 stitches, ist row — take up the loops, draw wool through i loop, then through 2 loops, * 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, * 28 times. 2nd row — take up the loops, draw wool through I loop, then through 2 loops twice, * 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, * 26 times, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 3 times. 3rd row — take up loops, draw wool through I loop, then through 2 loops once, * 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 4 times, * 6 times, 3 chain, wool throiigh 2 loops, * 4 times. 4th row — take up the loops, draw wool i loop, then through 2 loops twice, * 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 6 times, * 6 times, * 3 chain, wool through 2 loops, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 5 times. 5th row — take up 2 loops singly, lake up 2 loops together, take up 53 single loops, draw wool through i loop, then through 2 loops twice, * 3 chain, draw wool through 2 loops 8 times, * 6 times, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 5 times. 6th row — take up 2 loops singly, take 2 loops together, * 6 single, 2 together, 6 times, 2 -together, 2 single, draw wool through i loop, then through 2 loops to end of row. 7th row — take up 21 single loops, 2 together, 2 single, 2 together, 21 single, draw wool through i loop, then through 2 loops to end of row. 8th row — plain tricot. 9th row — take up 21 single loops, 2 together, 2 single, 2 together, 20 single, draw wool through i loop, then through 2 loops to end of I'ow. lothrow — plain tricot, ilthrow — take up 20 single loops, 2 together, 2 single, 2 together, 19 single, work back as in plain tricot. 12th row — plain tricot. 13th row — take up I single, 2 together alternately, till all are taken up, work back as in plain tricot and fasten off. Outline the Vandykes with 2 threads of filoselle as on the box-pleats of skirt, working the 3 stitches at each point. Sew cord round the collar pieces except at neck, which will be joined to the bodice. For the bodice make a chain of 129 stitches, work 7 rows of plain tricot, decreasing i by taking up 2 loops together once on the 2nd, 4th, 6th and 7th rows. There should now be 125 loops. 8th row — talie up all the loops, draw wool through i loop, then through 2 loops 55 times, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, * 3 chain, wool through 2 loops, * 10 times, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 55 times. 9th row — take up all the loops, wool through I loop, then through 2 loops 54 times, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 12 times, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 54 times.' loth row — take up 23 single loops, 2 together, 12 single, 2 together, 44 single, 2 together, 12 single, 2 together, 25 single, wool through I loop, then through 2 loops 50 times, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through loops 10 times, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops twice, 3 chain, wool through 2 loops 52 times. In the ne.xt 21 rows there is no decrease. The tufts are continued in Vandykes on each side of the middle stripe of tricot which remains of the same width, 10 or 12 tricot stitches according to the position of the tufts. In the Sth and 9th rows there were two tufts on each side, in the loth 3 tufts. Work 3 in the nth, 4 in the 12th, 3 in the 13th and 14th, 2 in the 15th, l6th and 17th, 3 in the l8th and 19th, 4 in the 20th, 3 in the 21st and 22nd, 2 in the 23rd, 24th and 25th, 3 in the 26th and 27th, 4 in the 28th, 3 in the 29th and 30th, 2 in the 31st. From the 32nd row the backs are worked separately from the front. As the wool is now at the right edge of the left back we will finish it. 1st row of separate back — take up 28 loops, thus making ■ 29.I00PS on the needle, on them work 14 rows in plain tricot. 15th row— take up 26 single loops, the last 2 together, draw the wool 'through 2 loops-28 times. - r6tli -row— take up. all the loops butthe last 1G8 2 singly, the last 2 together ; in returning draw the wool through 2 loops always, you thus decrease i loop on each half of the double row at the left edge, forming the slope of the shoulder. In first half of row the needle should be put under both loops of the narrow- ing of the previous row, thus making with the single loop 3 loops, as it makes the work firm. 17th andlSthrows — like i6th. iQthrow — take up 19 loops singly, i loop and the narrowing of last row together, draw wool through 2 loops 6 times, then through 3 loops once, leave remaining 11 loops on the needle unworked. 20th row- keeping the 1 1 loops on the needle, pass over the 3 taken together in last row, take up 4 single loops, i single and the narrowing of last row together, wool through 2 loops twice, then through 3 loops. 2 1 St row — take up all the loops together, there will be 3, then through 2 loops and fasten off, and pass the end of wool through the II loops still on the needle, and leave them till the other shoulder pieces are ready. Right back — fasten on between the 2gth and 30th loop counted from the other edge of the bodice, take up the 29 loops and work 14 rows in plain tricot. 15th row — take up 2 loops together, take up single loops to end of row, wool through 1 loop, then through 2 loops till there are only 3 left, draw the wool through the 3 together. i6th, 17th and i8th rows — like 15th row. 19th row — take up 2 loops together, 6 single, 2 together, leave the remain- ing 10 loops unworked, draw wool through 2 loops 6 times, then through 3 loops. 20th row — take 2 loops together, 2 single, i single and the narrowing of last row together, draw wool through 2 loops twice, then through 3 loops. 21st row — take up I single and the narrow- ing of last row together, draw the wool through 2 loops and fasten off. Front of bodice — leaving 2 loops to the left of the left back for the armhole, take up 60 loops, which will leave 2 loops down for the other armhole ; on these 60 loops work 14 rows (including the one now begun), continuing the tufts as before, that is to say, 2 tufts on each side in the ist and 2nd of the 14 rows, 3 in the 3rd and 4th, 4 in the 5th, 3 in the 6th and 7th, 2 in the 8th, 9th and loth, 3 in the i ith and 12th, 4 in the 13th, 3 in the 14th. 15th row — take up 2 loops together, 55 single, 2 together, wool through 3 loops 19 times, 3 tufts, wool through 2 loops 10 times, 3 tufts, wool through 3 loops 18 times, then through 3 loops. l6th row — take up 2 together, 5 1 single, last single and narrowing of last row together, draw wool through 2 loops 18 times, 2 tufts, draw wool through 2 loops 13 times, 2 tufts, wool through 2 loops 17 times, wool through 3 loops. i7th row — take up 2 loops together, 48 single, last single and narrowing of last row together, wool through 2 loops 17 times, 3 tufts, wool through 2 loops 10 times, 2 tufts, wool through 2 loops 16 times, wool through 3 loops. i8th row — take up 2 loops together, 43 single, 4th and narrowing of last row together, wool through 2 loops 43 times, wool through 3 loops. 19th row — take up 2 loops together, 6 single, 2 together, leave the rest till this shoulder is worked off thus : there are 9 loops on the needle, draw wool through 2 loops 6 times, then through 3 loops. 2othrow — take 2 loops together, 2 single, last single and narrowing of - last row together, wool through 2 loops twice, then through 3 loops. 2 1 St row — take up all the loops together (there will be 3) draw wool through, then through 2 and fasten off. Count 23 loops of those left unworked in 19th row, and still leaving them down, fasten on between the 23rd and 24th loops I chain, take up 2 loops together, 6 single, 7th and narrowing of last row together, wool through 3 loops twice, then through 3 loops. 20th row — take up 2 loops together, 2 single, 3rd and narrowing of last row together, wool through 2 loops twice, then through 3 loops. 21st row — take up 3 loops together, then 2 and fasten off. Sew the shoulder pieces together on the inner side, work a row of double crochet for the neck, taking up all the loops, those of the shoulders and those that were left unworked. Braid a pattern with the silk cord down the middle stripe of the bodice, lay the collar pieces on, bringing the narrow- ings over the shoulder seams, and crochet the collar and bodice together. Then beginning at the waist of the left back, fasten on the wool, 4 chain, I treble into 2nd of chain,* miss i loop in bodice, double crochet into ne.xt, 3 chain, i treble in double crochet just made. Repeat from * up the back and round the neck. Sew the buttons on to the right back, if they are small they will easily work in between the rows in the left back. Sew cord round the neck on the row uniting collar and bodice. Pleat the skirt into 33 inchesjbringing the point of the vandyke to the middle of each pleat and sew on to the bodice, having the join at the back, tack on the belt so that the scallops of the lower edge just touch the tufts on the pleats, and those of the upper edge on row of the bodice, passing a stitch through each scallop to keep it in place, join the sleeves and sew them in. Of the remaining cord leave a length of 4i inches at each end and coil the rest round closely, and sew firmly as an ornament on to the belt at the left side ; make 3 .Ktlle tassels of the filoselle, and sew to the ends of cord; put one or two stitches through the collar pieces to keep them iiat. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. LADY'S SHAPED PETTICOAT, IN TRICOT STITCH. Materials: — one and a quarter pounds Berlin fin- gering wool, No. 9 tricot hook. All the body or prin- cipal part of the petticoat is worked in simple tricoter stitch. Make a chain of loo stitches very evenly and not too tightly, ist row — take up each of the loops, so that you have a hundred loops on your needle, and woik back in ordinary tricot. 2nd row — take up 75 loops only, and work back in ordinary tricot. 3rd row — take up each of the ico stitches, and work back, that is you lake up the 75 stitches that you worked on the 2nd row, and also take up the 25 which you left undone in he 2nd row, so that altogether you will have a 100 loops againt n this row. 4th row— take up 75 loops only and work back as before. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until you have your petticoat as wide as you wish it. From a yard and three quarters to 2 yards is a good width, or narrovv-er of course if you prefer it. This is medium size. For a short or small lady, make a chain of So, and have So in the long rows, and 60 stitches in the short ones. When your petticoat is the right ■\\ ;dth, sew up at the back on the wrong- side, leaving a placket hole, cf course. Probably the narrow part at the top will be deep enough for the placket hole, so you can sew up the fuller part of the petticoat as high as it extends and leave the narrow part open to fit round the waist and get into. When you have sewn the petticoat up, work a row of very firm treble round the top to set the band. Run a string through the treble in and out, or sew the petticoat into a band of firm belting about 3Jd. a yard. For the bottom— i double crochet into a loop * 4 treble into the same loop, miss 2 loops, i double crochet into the next loop. Repeat from * to the end of the round. 2nd round of border at bottom— I double crochet between the 2nd and 3rd treble of is picot in previous round, 4 treble in the same place, that is, between the 2nd and 3rd treble of ist picot in previous round *, i double crochet, and 4 treble all hcticeen the 2nd and 3rd treble in the next picot in the previous round. Repeat from * to the end of the round; repeat the 2nd round of border for bottom until your petti- coat is deep enough. Do not make it too long, as this class of article always sti etches in length. Scarlet or white are good washing colours, also grey ; indeed most of the regular colours are fast and stand washing. Another arrangement of band for ladies who wear their petticoats buttoned on to their corsets. Make the petticoat 10 stitches shorter in the narrow part, so that instead of 100 stitches you would only have 90 in the long rows, and 75 in the short, or for the shorter petticoat you would have 70 in the long rows, and 60 in the short rows. Fasten it into a shaped band about 3 inches deep which you can button on to the corset, or you can fasten suspenders to the band. Boy's braces are not at all bad to support the skirts if their weight is oppressive on the hips. TRICOTER KNOT STITCH. Shawls and sofa blankets, &c., look exceedingly pretty and soft worked in this stitch. For a warm wrap shawl. Reliance yarn or Berlin fingering avooI, and a very long, tolerably coarse bone or wooden needle should be used ; care should be taken to select the latter with a well-shaped hook, and with a very smooth, even handle. For a lighter shawl, merino wool might be used instead of the coarser kind. Make a row of chain stitch the required length, throw the thread over the needle as for treble stitch, miss 2 and insert the needle into the 3rd stitch of the chain, draw through a loop of wool, throw the thread over the needle again and draw another loop through the same chain stitch. There should now be 5 stitches on the needle. Di-aw a loop through the ist 4, leaving the 5th on the needle ; repeat this into every 2nd chain stitch, gaining an addi- tional stitch on the needle each time, as in tricoter stitch. When you come to the end of the row crochet the stitches off, as in tricoter stitch, drawing wool through each loop sufficiently long to represent 2 chain stitches. Next row — make 2 chain stitches to start with, and proceed the sanie as in last row, only, instead of working into chiin stitches or picking up the -perpendiciilar loop as in tricot, you must insert the needle from front to back through each of the perpendicular loops which were made in the 1st half of la; t row, and throu.i;! which you drew th loops in the 2nd ha f of the row. Repc; 1 this row, always ri membering to con mence each with "> chain stitches. A tricoter knot stitcl like crochet k traver is apt to work a little crookedly towaicS the right-hand side, it is necessary in everj' 2nd row to miss the 1st knot loop, and to work 2 knots into the last knot loop of the row. It is ad- visable, until you become quite familiar with the stitch, oc- casionally to count a row, to see that you have ih.e right number knots. INFANT'S JACKET , In Tricoter Knot Stitch. The materials required for this little jacket are : 3 skeins of Berlin fingering wool or Reliance yarn, 3 yards of ribbon about an inch wide, and a somewhat coarse wooden or bone crochet hook, with a long handle and a well-shaped hook. Makeachainof 57 stitches. Crochet 9 Jows of tricoter knot stitch. There should be 2S knots in each row. In the 3rd, 5th, 7th and 9th rows— miss the 1st knot loop of last row and crochet 2 knots into the last knot loop. Take from another skein of wool (to avoid unnecessaiy joins in the work) sufficient to work I double stitch into the 17 th knot from the beginning of the row, 22 chain stitches; fasten oft". lOth row — work with the original wool 17 knots into last row, and 11 knots along the 22 chain stitches. Work 15 more rows of tricoter knot stitch. In the nth, 13th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 2ist, 23rd and 25th rows — miss the ist knot loop and work 2 knots into the last knot loop. Now woik i double, 22 chain with another piece of wool, as in the 9th row. 26th row — the same as the loth row. Work S more rows of tricoter knot stitch, missing the ist knot loop, and working 2 knots into the last knot loop of the 27th, 29th, 31st and 33rd rows : fasten off. Now turn the wrong side of the work out and, with a wool needle, join the ends of 21st to 25th rows to those of the 26th to 30th rows. This forms the shoulder. Make the other shoulder in the same way. The Sleeve. — For the right sleeve, commence in the front half of the armhole at the shoulder seam ; work 1 1 tricoter knot stitches, return, then 2 chain and a 2nd row of 11 knots ; fasten off. Now commence at the back half of the armhole at the lowest end ; work u knots, before returning catch in the 1st stitch of the 1st row on the front ; work a 2nd row of 1 1 knots, catching in the 2nd row on the front. In the 3rd and following rows it will be possible to work the whole row on both back and front of sleeve in one. From the 3rd to the 9th row — miss' the ist knot loop iu each row» ioth' "row— work without missing. iith row — miss the ist knot 169 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. loop and work 3 knots into the last knot loop. 12th row — work with missing ; fasten off. Sew up the sleeve on the wrong side. Make the left sleeve the same as the right, only that you must com- mence at the shoulder seam in the back half of the armhole to work the 2 rows of 1 1 knots, and then work from the lowest end of the front half. The Border. — A treble knot stitch is made thus : Com- mence by making a loop on the needle, then throw the thread round it and insert it into a stitch in last row, draw through a loop of wool, throw the thread round the needle a second time and draw a loop through the same stitch again. There should be 5 stitches on the needle ; draw a loop through the ist 4, and then draw another through this loop and the one remaining on the needle. Work the following all round the jacket and at the edge of the sleeves, * i treble knot stitch, 4 chain, i double into the ist of the 4 chain, repeat from * into each row. When turning the corners work a sufficient number of treble knot stitches into the corner ftitch to make the border lie flat. Run 7-8ths of a yard of the ribbon round the neck of the jacket below the border, i-8th round the waist, and J yard into each sleeve at the cuff, tying the ends in a bovvr on the outside of the sleeve. This jacket is made to fit a child of six months old. BABY BOY'S TAM O' SHANTER HAT. Materials required: — 2 ozs. of best cream or white single Berlin wool, 2J yards of ribbon to match wool for the bow and strings, and a soft cap front ; bone hook No. 9. You commence by working 5 chain and unite, them ; throw the wool over needle as though about to make a treble and draw wool loosely through. Repeat this twice more, not working off, but retaining the 6 loops on your needle, draw wool through all 6 loops, and unite by I chain to form a tuft, work 9 of these tufts into the ring of chain. 2nd row — draw the wool up in same way, that is 3 times loosely, and unite by i chain, work 2 tufts into each space between the tufts of previous row, making 18 tufts. 3rd row — quite plain, that is, I tuft between each tuft of previous row. 4th row — 2 tufts into each hole again, like 2nd row. 5th row— quite plain, that is, no increa- sing. 6th row — you work i between I tuft, then 2 tufts into I hole between tufts of previous row, and work in same way all round. 7th row — quite plain, no increasing. 8th row— 3 plain, then 2 into the 4th space or hole, then 3 plain again, that is to say I between each tuft for 3 times. Continue in same way to end of row. 9tli row — quite plain, no increasing. loth row — quite plain, no increasing. nth row — plain, no increasing. 1 2th row — 5 plain, then take 2 tufts together, to begin decreasing. For the brim — now 5 plain again, take 2 tufts together, continue in same way to end of row. 13th row — 4 plain and then take 2 tufts together, 4 plain, 2 tufts together again into end of row. 14th row — I tuft into each; this completes the brim. For the band you now work 2 double crochet stitches between each tuft of previous row, and work 6 rows of double crochet, but take the hook right through the stitch instead of at the back ; if the band is liked deeper you can work more rows ; the model is 5 rows. Now tack the little front in, which must be nice and soft, remembering the tender skin of infants, then sew on the strings outside leaving a stand up loop. Make a nice full bow and put on one side, twist a piece of the ribbon loosely from one string to the other across the front of band, tacking it here and there to keep it in its place. If wished the hoocl can be lined with white sarcenet, and would take half a yard. COLLAR AND CUFFS, With Roll Picot Edge. {See directions for fiinge on next pagt.) For the collar. — Make a chain of 184, turn, ist row— miss 7, I treble into the 8th chain, * 2 chain, miss i, i treble, repeat from * to the end of the row ; fasten off. 2nd row — 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into the 7 chain which you missed at the commencement of last row, miss the next 2 chain, and into the following i work * 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble, repeat from * into every 2nd 2 chain to the end of the row; fasten off. 3rd row— i double into the ist of the 2 trebles of last row, * 2 trebles, 2 chain, 2 treble into the next 2 chain of last row, i double between the 2nd and 3rd of the next 4 trebles, repeat from * to the end of the row. The last double must be 170 worked into the last treble stitch of the last row ; fasten off. 4th row — I single into the ist double of the last row, 4 chain, then 2 treble, 2 chain 2 treble into each of the 2 chain of last row ; at the end of the row work 4 chain, i single into the last double of the last row ; fasten off. 5th row — i double into the ist treble of last row, * 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble into the next 2 chain, i double between the 2nd and 3rd of the next 4 trebles, repeat from * to the end of the row. Work the last double into the last treble of the previous row ; fasten off. 6th row— i single into the ist double of last row, 4 chain, then 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into each of the 3 chain of last row ; at the end work 4 chain, i single into the last double of last row ; fasten off. 7th row — i double into the ist treble of last row, * 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the next 2 chain, i double between the 3rd and 4th of the 6 treble of the last row, repeat from * working the last double into the last treble of the previous row ; fasten off. 8th row — commence with i double into the end of the foundation chain, 4 chain, i single into the ist of the 4 chain. Work 8 roll picots, with 4 chain, i single into the ist of the 4 chain (hereafter called a purl) between each, into the ist 4 chain across the end of the collar, 4 chain, purl it, i double into the 2nd 4 chain across the end of the collar, 4 chain, purl it ; turn the corner with 8 roll picots, with 4 chain, purled between each, into the 1st 3 chain of last row, * 4 chain, purl it, i double into the next 3 chain, 4 chain, purl it, 6 roll picots into the next 3 chain, with 4 chain purled between each, repeat from * to the end. Turn the 2nd corner and work across the 2nd end to correspond with the 1st comer and end, i double into the foundation chain. 9th row — turn the corner with 4 chain and work thus along the opposite side of the foundation chain, * miss i, i treble, i chain, repeat from * to the end of the row, finishing with i treble ; fasten off. loth row — I double into the 4 chain, at the commencement of last row, * 4 chain, purl it, I double between the next 2 trebles, repeat from * to the end of the row ; fasten off. Run a cord of chain stitch into the 9th row, and add a tassel to each end of it. For the cuffs. — Make a chain of 80, join, taking care not to twist it. 1st row — 4 chain, * miss i, i treble, i chain, repeat from * all round : fasten off. 2nd row — commence by working 3 treble between 2 of the trebles of last row, * 2 chain, 3 treble between the next 2 trebles, miss 3 trebles, 3 treble between the 3rd and 4th trebles of last row, repeat from * all round, and join with a single stitch. 3rd row — * 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the next 2 chain of last row, i double between the 3rd and 4th of the next 6 trebles, repeat from * all round ; fasten off. 4th row — 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into each of the 3 chain of last row. 5th row — the same as the 3rd row. 6th row — the same as the 4th row. 7th row — the same as the 3rd row. 8th row — put an edging of roll picots to match the collar. 9th and loth rows— the same as the gth and loth rows of the collar. Should the cuffs be too large or too small, make a longer or shorter chain at the beginning, taking care that the number of stitches can be divided by 16. An explanation of how to work roll picot is given with the directions for making the roll picot fringe. The collar and cuffs should be worked with No. 20 crochet cotton, and a moderately fine steel crochet needle with a well-shaped hook. The pattern given above for the cuffs makes a very pietty edging by omitting to join the foundation chain, and by fastening off at the end of each row. It may be made much deeper by repeating the 3rd and 4th rows any number of times that may be desired. A handsome mantel or table border may be made by working it in the coarsest number of loom yarn, and adding a fringe. This should, of course, be lined with some material of a suitable colour. Loom yarn can be had from A. E. K., Box 10, Post Office, Ballymena, Co., Antrim, Ireland, price 6d. per skein; a long length. "a 'Handsome^Coloured Sheet of DOLLS IS GIVEN AWAY wilh the DOUBLE SUMMER NUMBER of Mrs. LEACH'S CHILDREN'S DRESSMAKER. Tiice 2d., with extra Supplement of Bummer Dolmans. How to cut out and make all the new Summer Fashions for Children and Young Ladies of all ages. HowtoDreiS Dolls, &.C. All Newsagents, or post free three stamps. Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson'ti Court, Fleet Street, London, E.G. THfi FANCV WORK-BASkET. INFANT'S BOOT. Materials required : — lanoz. of white Andalusian wool, and i an oz. of salmon pink, and Walker's bell gauge bone cro- chet hook number 12. Com- mence with 30 chain, then turn and work i double crochet into 2nd from needle, i double into every stitch, takingup the backstitch. 2nd row ; i chain i double into each double to end of row. Repeat this row g times more and at the end of the last row, work 10 more chain. I2ih row — turn and work double crochet along the row, making 38 stitches. Ten next lows to be the same. 23rd row — decrease 9 stitches at the toe, so as to make it like the other side, making 29 again. Next 10 rows to be the same. Fasten off and take a wool needle and sew it up. For the foot, with pink wool fasten on at join of .leg, do double crochet taking up both stitches until you get to the corner of the toe, then do 2 double crochet 9 more along the top, and 2 in the other corner, work all round, repeat this for the next 10 rows, increasing 2 at each corner. Fasten off. Take the wool needle and run it up 4 stitches each side of the heel. Gather it up tightly and sew up until you get 4 stitches each side of the toe. Gather those as you did the heel and tasten off. For the border. Work on the wrong side 2 treble, 2 chain, i treble into a stitch, 1 double in next and repeat all round. Turn the border down over right side, and work another row the reverse way. Crochet a chain of 2 strands of pink wool, and I of white and run through the ankle. Make 2 little tassels of pink and white, and sew on, and the boot is finished. INFANT'S BOOT. These little boots require i skein of white berlin fingering wool, i yard ofnarrow ribbon, and abone crochet needle, the proper size to make nice firm work. In all the double crochet unless directed otherwise crochet into the back strand onh/ of the last row. Commence with the sole. Make 8 chain. Work rows of double stitch backwards and forwards, always turning with i chain. In the first 4 rows, increase by crocheting 2 stitches into the last stitch of the row. (There should then be 1 1 double stitches in each row). When you have completed the 24th row, without breaking off the wool, commence the toe piece, ist row — I chain, 5 double, 3 double into one, 5 double. 2nd row — i chain, double stitch. 3rd row — i chain, 6 double, 3 double into one, 6 double. 4th row — i chain, double stitch. 5th row — i chain, 7 double, 3 double into one, 7 double. 6th row — i chain, double stitch. 7th row — i chain, 8 double, 3 double into one, 8 double. 8th row — I chain, double stitch. 9th row — i chain, 9 double, 3 double into one, 9 double. loth row — i chain, double stitch, nth row — I chain, 10 double, 3 double into one, 10 double. 12th row — I chain, double stitch. 13th row — i chain, 11 double, 3 double into one, II double. 14th row — i chain, double stitch. 15th row — i chain, 12 double, 3 double into one, 12 double. i6th row — i chain, double stitch. 17th row — i chain, 13 double, 3 double into one, 13 double. i8th row — i chain, double stitch. 19th row— i chain, 14 double, 3 double into one, 14 double. 20th row — i chain, 11 double turn. Repeat this last row 21 times more to form the heel. Then turn the work wrong side out and join it with single stitch to the corresponding part of the toe piece on the opposite side. Sew in the sole on the wrong side. You have now a complete little . slipper. To form it into a boot, work 2 rows of double stitch all round the top, working one double stitch for each row of crochet round the heel. In these two rows catch up both strands of the stitches. 3rd row — 3 chain, * i treble, i chain, miss I, repeat from * all round, i chain join. Repeat this row 6 times more. On the last row work the following with the wrong side of the boot next you. i double, * 4 chain, 1 double into the first of the 4 chain, I double into the chain after the next treble. Repeat all round from * fasten off. Turn down the edge of the leg all round tov/ards the outside till you have the 5th row of i chain, i treble at the top, then work a row the same as the last all round and fasten off. Now turn down the leg futlbcr so as to pjlace the 4th row of i chain, i treble at the top. Work another row the same as the two last all round, this time holding the rigl}t side of the work towards you, fasten off. Leave the leg turned down as you have it, and run half a yard of pretty narrow ribbon through the first row of I chain, I treble, and tie it in a bow in front. Or if preferred, make a cord and tassels of crocheted wool instead of the ribbon. Very dainty little boots may be made by working the last three rows in some pretty shade of pink or blue wool with a cord and tassels to match. For home use beehive wool is much more serviceable than berlin fingering, as it does not shrink in the washing, though, of course the boots do not look quite so soft or pretty when new as those made of the other wool. Extremely comfortable invalid's boots can be made on the same plan a; these on a great deal a larger, scale. If wished a leather sole may be substituted for the crocheted one. Fleecy or double berlin wool would be suitable for them. CROCHET TRIMMING, With Fringe, in Roll Picor SvircH. The pretty crochet trimming shown in the illustration may be used with or without the fringe, according to fancy. It may be made in different materials, either the coloured crochet cotton, so much the fashion at present, or, as in the piece from which the engraving is made, of loom thread, to be had from A. E. K., Post Office, Ballymena, Co. Antrim, Ireland. Or it looks exceedingly well worked in Messrs. Barbour & Sons' Royal Irish Silk, a beautiful silk finished thread which can be had from Whiteley's, Westboume Grove, in an endless variety of beautiful shades. In the latter it is especially suitable for dress trimmings. In working the roll pi(ol stitch it is absolutely necessary to have a icdl shai)ed steel crochet needle. The hook must be smooth and nicely rounded, or it will catch awkwardly in the work. The part of the needle above the hook must be of a thickness that is in proper proportion with the size of the hook. Roll picot stitch is worked thus — make a loop on the needle to start with, then throw the thread round the needle 9 times, draw all these threads up close with the middle finger of the right hand. Insert the point of the needle into whatever stitch you wish to work the roll picot, draw through a loop ; now draw this loop up close to the 9 threads and hold all firmly together between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, draw through all a loop of thread and make a chain stitch to steady it, taking care to leave the thread sufficiently loose not to crush down the roll picot, and yet not so loose as to prevent it being firm. This stitch appears to be troublesome at first, but after a very little practice it becomes perfectly easy and veiy pleasant. For the edging — to make the foundation, commence with 10 chain, i treb'e into the 5th of the 10 chain, i cham, miss i, i treble, i chain, miss I, I treble, * 5 chain, turn, i treble into the last treble made, i 171 THE FANGY WGRK-BASKET. chain, i treble into the 2nd treble, I chain, i treble into the next treble, repeat from * till you have a sufficient length worked, fasten oft". 2nd row — 3 treble into i of the S chains of the foundation, * 2 chain, 2 treble into the next 5 chain, 2 chain, 2 treble into the next 5 chain, 9 chain, i long treble (made by throwing the thread twice over the needle) into the 9th chain from needle, 2 treble into the next 5 chain, repeat from * to the end. 3rd row — * * i double into the 2 chain between the ist and 2nd of the 2 trebles of last row, I double into the 2 chain between the 2nd and 3rd of the 2 trebles, * 4chain, i singleintothc istof the4 chain, i roll picot into the 9 chain of last row ; repeat from * 6 times more into the same 9 chain, 4 chain, i single into the ist of the 4 chain ; repeat from * * all along. The heading — * 3 roll picots with knobs of 4'ch.T.in, i single into the 1st of the 4 chain, between each roll picot into ist loop of 5 chain along the opposite side of the foundation, miss a loop and repeat from *. The fringe — provide yourself with a piece of smooth wood about 4 inches in breadth, h inch in depth, and 6 or 8 inches in length. There should be a groove made all down the centre to make room for the points of the scissors when cutting the fringe. Wind the thread a good many times round this end, cut it down the centre at the groove. Should it be inconvenient to procure this piece of wood, an old book with a stiff cover answers very well. Take 4 of the threads you have cut for the fringe, and with the crochet hook draw them through i of the loops made by the 4 chain stitches between the roll picots along the edge. They should be drawn through exactly by the middle of the threads, and then the ends drawn through the loop thus made. Pull the ends tight, and proceed in a similar manner all along the edge into all the loops of 4 chain, except those on each side of the double stitches. Trim the ends to make it quite even. WASHING HAND. This is a very useful little article, easily made and inexpensive. As it is generally much liked by gentle- men as well as ladies who have once used one, it finds a ready sale either at bazaars or a charity basket. Materials required: — 2 ounces of Strutt's Np. 4 3-thread knitting cotton (salmon tie), and a coarse steel crochet hook. Make 20 chain and join into a loop by working a single stitch into first stitch of the 20 chain (this loop is to hang the hand up by). Then make 50 chain and join into a loop by working a single stitch into first of the 50 chain. 1st round — work 50 double stitches, i double into each of the chain stitches, join the round with a single stitch into first of the 50 double stitches. 2nd round — 2 chain, miss i stitch of last round, 49 treble stitches, i treble into each double of last round, working into both loops of the double stitches of last round, and join with a single stitch into 2nd of the 2 chain. 3rd round — 2 chain, miss 1 stitch of last round, work 49 treble, i treble into each treble of last round, and joining with a single stitch into 2nd of the 2 chain at beginning of round. Work 10 rounds more same as 3rd round, always working through both loops of the stitches. 14th round — decrease by working 2 stitches together, then 21 treble, decrease twice, 21 treble and decrease once, join round with i single to the 2nd of the 2 chain at beginning of the round. 15th round — 2 chain, de- crease I stitch, 19 treble, decrease twice, 19 treble, decrease i, and join with a single stitch to the 2nd of the 2 chain at beginning of the round. i6th round — 2 chain, decrease once, 17 treble, decrease twice, 17 treble, decrease once, join with a single stitch to the 2nd of the 2 chain at beginning of round. 17th round — decrease, 15 treble, decrease twice, 1 5 treble, decrease, join with a single stitch to the 2nd of the 2 chain at beginning of round. i8th round— decrease once, 13 treble, decrease twice, 13 treble, decrease once, join with a single stitch to the 2nd of the 2 chain at beginning of the round. Now join the top together by putting needle through the first and last treble, and working a single stitch. Take the 2 stitches next to the 2 already joined, and work them off in same way. Repeat till all the stitches are joined, and fasten off" cotton. No. 1 of the FANCY WORK-BASKET Contains the Fii-st Steps to Crewel Work, Knitting and Crochet Woi'k. Price 2d. of all Newsvendors, or poat free 2^d. 172 BAG FOR BATHING COSTUME. At various French watering places the bathers may frequently be seen going to and from the shore carrying their bathing dresses, wet or dry, in nets like cabbage nets. These have great advantages, as when the costume is wet they let the water drip freely through the meshes, and when it is dry, they are equally convenient for carrying towels in, and the various etceteras required. English people, however, have as a rule far more regard for appearances than their French neighbours, and prefer something more elaborate than the simple net. The bag described below is intended to hold dress, towels and anything else that is needed. It is made of strong materials, so that rough usage will not injure it, and there is plenty of room for the water to drip through, thus saving the injury often done to a bathing costume by leaving it to soak in the water collected at the bottom of a waterproof or macintosh case. The materials required are two balls of coarse cream- coloured Macrame twine or Seine cord, costing about 6d. each, two balls of coarse red Macrame twine, the price of which varies from lod. to is. per ball, i moderately stout bone crochet hook, price 2d. The total cost will be about three shillings, probably rather less. Make a chain of y7, with the white cord, work i double crochet in the 9th chain from the last, * 5 chain, miss 3 founda- tion chain, i double crochet in the 4th chain, continue from * to the end. Then turn the work upside down so that the wrong side is outside and the foundation chain at the top, work 5 chain, I double crochet just as in the previous row, but in the opposite edge of the chain stitches; at the end work a single crochet into the 4th of the 9 chain of previous row. ist round — I double crochet into next chain, 5 chain, i double crochet into the middle or the 3rd of the 5 chain of the last row. Continue working now all round instead of backwards and forwards, 5 chain, i double crochet till 5 rounds are done, theri join the red twine and for the 6th round work 3 double crochet in each of the middle 3 of the 5 chain of the last round, miss i, i double crochet over the double crochet of the last round, miss i, * 3 doable crochet in next 3 chain stitches, miss i, i double crochet over the double crochet of last round. Repeat from * 7th round — join the' white * 5 chain, miss 3 of the treble of the last round, i double crochet in the next treble. Repeat from *, work, 4 more rounds like this, then repeat from the ist red round. Continue to work 5 rounds with white cord, and 2 rounds with the red alternately until there are 20 rounds of white, and 4 bands of red. 33rd and last round — join the white as usual after the red round of treble and work 3 double crochet, 7 chain, i double crochet in the 2nd of the 7 chain, i chainj miss 3 treble of last round, 3 double crochet in the next 3 treble; Repeat from *. The handles must next be provided for. For each of these take 4 strands of red and 4 strands of the white cord, divide these into 4, and plait them, taking a white and a red thread together as one strand. Three of these plaits are required for each handle, and they in their turn must be taken together and plaited so as to make a broad firm plait. Of course two handles are required, each measuring sixteen inches in length. They must be sewn inside the bag near the top very firmly, and again about two inches THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, ower down. The bottom of the liag is finished off with a knotted fringe about 4 inches long, of the red and white twine mixed, the threads being alternately used. These directions will make rather a large sized bag, but this will be appreciated by families, two or three members of which occupy the same machine, and so it is convenient to have the bathing-dresses and towels packed together in one bag. By lessening the number of stitches in the foundation chain a smaller size is easily made, the number of rounds worked being lessened in proportion. The handles also must be about two inches shorter. We have seen very handsome bags made on a similar plan to the one described but of a pretty network pattern in Macrame lace, bordered with a narrow lace edging instead of fringe. We have one in our possession worked in red and buff crochet cotton, but we cannot say much about this as we have not yet had practical experience of the power of the finer cotton to with- stand the continual wetting with sea-water. Certainly the crochet cotton has one great point of superiority over the Macrame cord^ it is not so trying to the fingers. EASTER EGG COSY. This cosj', as will be seen from the illustration, is in the form of a three-egg frame, each egg having a separate cosy. Each cosy forms a double cone, opening in the middle, the lower half receiving the egg, the upper shutting over it as a lid. To imitate the variety of colouring in Easter eggs the upper and lower cones ai'e made of different colours. The design is susceptible of many varieties, both in form and colour. One, two, three, four, five and six egg-holders might be arranged on one stand, altering its form according to the number. In the model, the upper and lower halves are each made of one tint, but stripes, horizontal and spiral, might be introduced, as also crosses, small diamonds, or other figures in another colour ; but in all such varieties the natural bias of the crochet stitch must be taken into account. Crosses and other patterns, instead of standing perpendicularly to the horizontal edge, will slope continu- ally to the left — in many cases a great improvement on the upright figure. The model is in plain crochet, and will now be described. Materials : — Single Berlin wool, five colours : violet, blue, amber, and dark green, S oz. of each ; crimson i oz., a small quantity of 4-thread fleecy, of the darkest shade of brown, and of crimson to match the crimson Berlin wool, a piece of mill-board i-i6th of an inch in thickness, 9. inches square, a piece of crimson merino or cash- mere, and a piece of dark brown cloth, each 9 inches square, 5 feet of thick bonnet wire, and 5 feet of galvanised wire i-8th of an inch in diameter, 2 bone crochet needles, Nos. 1 1 and 5, bell gauge, a pair of pincers or wire scissors. Some parts of the work require greater thickness than others ; for these, two threads of single iierlin wool may be used as one, or double Berlin of the same shade as the single may be employed. In the latter case, I an oz. of single, and ^ an oz. of double of each tint must be procured, but the directions will be given on the supposition that only single Berlin is used. Care must be used in selecting the colours, else the effect of the whole will be gaudy ; the red must be crimson, not scarlet, the blue a full middle tint, the green very dark blue-green, the amber the colour of ripe wheat, the violet a middle tint. In the model the lower halves of the cups are : i amber, i blue, and l crnnson. They are made thus : With a single thread and No. ir hook, make a chain of 6 stitches, unite into a round with a slip stitch, ist round — 3 chain to form the ist treble, 17 treble into the ring, and round — 3 chain for ist of treble, i treble into 1st treble of last round, 2 treble into the next, 1 treble into the 3rd, I into the 4th, 2 into the 5th, i into the 6th, i into the 7th, 3 into the 8th, i into the 9th, i into the loth, 2 into the nth, i into the I2th, I into the 13th, 2 into the 14th, i into the 15th, I into the i6th, 3 into the 17th. There should now be 26 stitches, including the chain treble, unite. 3rd and 4th rounds — take a 2nd thread of the same hue, and work over it in double crochet without increase. As the threads are apt to get twisted, it is better to wind each colour into two balls. NOTE. — If it is desired to work a pattern into these cups, the second thread must be of the colour chosen for the pattern, and must alternate with the colour of the ground according to the demands of the pattern, as in the smoking caps and other articles worked in twe colours, each being worked over when not in use. The 2nd thread thickens the work, and also by gentle draw- ing regulates the evenness of the round. The double crochet stitch used here differs from that usually employed ; it is drawn first through the 2 back loops of the stitch below, then a chain stitch is made, and lastly, the wool is drawn through the 2 loops on the needle. 5th round — 2 chain for ist stitch,* i double into each of the next 4, 2 into the 5th, repeat from * till end of round, unite. There should now be 31 stitches. 6th and 7th rounds — without increase. 8th round — like 5th. There should now be 37 stitches. 9th round— without increase. Through all these rounds the second thread is worked over. loth round — cut off 92 inches of the bonnet wire. Wind wool of the colour of the upper half of the cosy round S of an inch, and bend it double, thus making a staple 3-Sth of an inch in length, bend the rest of the wire into a circle, of which the ends overlap by i an inch, and connect together with the wool used for the staple. In working the cup it is best to let the right side of the crochet fall inwards; it is easier to work, and requires less handling; still keeping it so, use the two threads as en;, and let the wire take the place of the 2nd thread. Having put the staple through to the right side, just where the join comes, work over the round of wire with the double thread, and fasten off. This finishes the lower part of the cosy. In the model the upper cones are worked, I in violet, I in crimson, and i in dark green. They are made like the lower cones, except that the gth round is omitted, and, there being no staple, 9 inches of wire will suffice. When the loth round is completed do not fasten off, but, still using the double thread, make 4 chain, miss a stitch * and take up the next, not in the usual way, but on the upper surface of the last round, slipping the needle from right to left under the chain stitch that forms the middle part of the double crochet stitch, draw the wool throu'^h and then through the 2 loops on the needle, 3 chain, miss i, and repeat from * till end of round, unite with slip stitch to the 2nd of the 4 chain of last round, * 5 chain, l double into hole formed by the 1st 3 chain, * repeat to the end, unite and fasten off. These 2 rows standing out at a different angle from the rest of the work form a trimming to the lid. Take the wool with which you have worked the lower half of the cosy, wind the 2 threads 8 times round 2 fingers, take them off, twist the wool round one end of the thick loop thus formed, button-hole stitch with a wool needle lightly, 3 stitches round the open part of the loop, pass the needle down through the closed end, draw it through the hole at the top of the lid and secure it in the inside. This forms a tuft by which to raise the cover. Wind the brown fleecy wool 20 times round three fingers and fasten it into the bottom of the lower part of the cosy. This is to form padding to keep the egg warm. The upper end of the 20 loops is to be cut, but not until after the cosies 'are mounted on the stand. In the model the amber cup has a violet lid with an amber tuft, the blue cup a crimson lid with a blue tuft, and the crimson cup a green lid with a crimson tuft. Do not join the cups and lids until the stand is made and the cups mounted thereon. Place the 3 lids on the mill-board, which should be 9 inches square, so that they just touch each other, and mark strongly with a soft black pencil on the mill-board round each lid, then place the cups in the centre of the circles just drawn, and drawa smaller circle close to the work. Put away the cups and lids tdl wanted. Have the mill-board by the large circles to the points where they intersect, making the whole circumference 30 inches in the form of a trefoil; with a bradawl have 4 holes pierced at equil distances in each of the inner circles, to allow the cups to be stitched to the band, and one in the centre of the trefoil to receive the staff. Now cover the mill-board with the crimson meiino on 173 THE FANCY WORK-BASKEt. the upper; and the brown cloth on the under surface, sewing Ihem neatly? together at a quarter of an inch from the edge on the under side; this will be rendered easier if the two covers are fi>ced in place by stitches through the holes stabbed for the cups and staff. The mill-board thus covered is ready for the trim- ming. With the brown fleecy and crochet hook No. 5 make a loose chain of 39 inches, do not cut off the wool, as some links more or less may be needed, turn the chain rough side up and braid it round the space between the outer and inner circle somewhat in the fomi of a horseshoe with the points inward ; each of the three cacles will contain seven horseshoes, each seven taking about 39 inches of chain. Attach this to the merino with a needle and thread of the same colour as the wool. When this outer circle is sewn on, crochet 33 inches of chain with the crimson fleecy, arid repeat the horse shoes just inside the brown ones, letting the chain be quite easy, and keeping the light form by a stitch here and lliere with a red thread ; with the brown fleecy make a chain of 21 inches and sew on inside the crimson horseshoe in I inch deep upright loops like a caterpillar in motion, sew in seven such loops and fasten off Now with a thread of the brown wool fasten the cups in their places inside the brown loops ; the needle must come from the under surface of th.e mill-board through one of the 4 holes, up through the 2nd round of the cup, down through the opposite hole, up again through the 3rd and down through the 4th (these brown stitches being inside of the cup will not show) ; secure firmly underneath the board. Take care that the staple- side of the cup where the join is, is placed next the centre of the tiefoil, as the lid of each cosy must open outwards, the staple serving as a fastening when the cup is closed. For the staff cut off 20 inches of the galvanised wire and double it, leaving 6 inches at the loop end, open the 2 wires an inch apart at the top. P'rom the point where the wires unite (3 inches below the top) work round the loop of wiie in close buttonhole stitch with the brown wool. A second row of buttonhole stitching at the outer edge of the first will give firmness and width to the loop which is to form the handle. For the side wires cut off three lengths of 13 inches, bend 2 inches of each into a loop at an acute angle to receive the handle of the egg spoon, work round I loop in i row of buttonhole stitch with violet wool used double, and continue to wind the wool round the wires to its other end, and fasten off. Cover another loop and wires in the same way with crimson wool and the 3rd with green. Now bind these 3 wires firmly just below the loops to the centre wire 3 inches from the top, then with the 3 colours held together wind closely and flatly round the 4 wires for 3 inches below the loops, and fasten off. Pass the double upright wire through the hole in the centre of the trefoil. Turn back an inch of each flatly in opposite directions and sew over the ends with brown wool through the brown cloth. Each of the other 3 wires is to be brought forward, carried under the mill board at the juncture of the circles, the end tv.isted round upon itself compactly, and sewn over with the brown wool to form a little foot, some stitches of wool passed over the wire and under the trimming at each juncture making all firm. The whole staff will be 9 inches in height, 3 to the loops, 3 between the egg-spoon loops and the point whence the separate wires come forward, and the rest below. The lids must now be joined to the cups by sewing 4 stitches of each together on the outer rims, facing the staple on which one of theholesinthe trimmingof the lid is to be caught as a fastening. The loops of wool inside the cups is to be cut and the cosy is finished. HANDSOME VINE-LEAF PATTERN. For B.^bies' Pelisses and Dresses. Materials required: — A card of cordon or mignardise braid, Coates' crochet cotton No. 20, steel hook No. 5. Commence by leaving a. few inches of the braid unv.orked and fasten on cotton, work I double crochet stitch into a picot of braid, 4 chain, i double crochet into the 2nd picot of the braid, repeat this 4 times, missing I picot between each hole, thus making 5 holes, miss 9 picots and work I double crochet in the loth, then work 4 chain i double into every picot for 10 times, * miss 9 picots and work I double into the loth picot again, 4 chain i double into every picot for 10 times, repeat from * once more, thus making 3 sections of the leaf, ** miss 9 picots, I double into next, then work 4 chain, miss I picot, I double into next, do this 4 times more, which will make 5 holes, miss 9 picots, i double into the lolh picot, 4 chain i double into every picot for 4 times, make 3 chain, catch the 5th hole of last group of 10 holes that had no chain between, unite the 2 leaves together, i chain, i double to finish, wort 4 chain i double into every picot for 5 times more, * miss 9 picots and work I double into the loth, 4 chain, i double in o every picot, do this 10 times. Repeat from * once more. Now go back to * * and repeat for the 174 length desired. 2nd row — the other side of braid, and you must have an extra length of braid, which forms the top edge for sewing on by, fasten the cotton on this piece of braid, and work 4 chain miss I picot, i double crochet into next, then 7 chain into the top row of pattern in the loth picot from ist section of the leaf, * 7 chain into the 9th picot in top piece of braid, 7 chain into the picot that forms the 1st leaf, viz., the centre picot of the 9 that were missed on the other side of braid ; i chain i double into centre picot of 2nd section of leaf, and also into 3rd and 4th, draw these sections together by 3 chain united to the ist scallop, which forms a tiny round hole, then 7 chain to the top braid, missing i picot, 7 chain to bottom braid, missing 5 picots, then 4 chain i double into 9 picots in succession of pattern piece, catching the 5th hole into the 8th picot top piece of braid from the last chain, repeat from *. For the heading — work i chain i treble into every picot at the top edge of braid to sew it on by. This pattern is elegant, but uses up a lot of braid. PRETTY EDGE FOR PINAFORES. /laterials required : — Cor- n braid. No. I, Coates' :ton No. 18, steel hook ). 5. You work this igthways, and commence working i chain, i treble o every picot of the braid II along one side the length It is required, now begin ; other side of braid, and rk 5 chain, i double ichet into the 4th picot, tnat is to say, miss 3 picots between each loop of chain, and work in the same way all along. 2nd row — work 12 double crochet stitches into each loop of 5 chain in previous row, and repeat to the end of row. 3rd row — 5 chain, i double crochet between the 6th and 7th stitch of the 12 double crochet in previous row, repeat all along in same way to the end of row. 4th row — 6 double crochet all into the same loop, 5 chain to form a picot in centre of each loop, then 6 more double crochet into same loop, repeat in the same way to end of row ; this is a very easy pattern for beginners, and is also pretty and very strong. TWISTED EDGING. Materials required: — A piece ■^'^TmiUMr "W MP" IM ^^^°^ Cordon braid No. i, Coates' ^*iS™ ^ ^ tr ^ ^^ crochet cotton No. 20, steel hook :^f* A ' ^ * m li ^°- 5- Commence by making a slip-stitch into I picot of the braid, and then take up 6 more picots, which will make 7 picots iltogether on the hook without working, then draw them all tightly together by a siip-siuch at the back, i chain, then pass the hook into the picot on other side of braid that lies just before tie last one of those drawn up, slip-stitch through, then pick up another 7 picots, and repeat. There should be 4 picots be- tween each scallop. This completes the pattern, all but the top edge, which is worked by making 2 chain, taking 2 picots together by a double crochet stitch, 2 chain, i treble, taking 2 picots together in middle of the scallop, 2 chain, i double crochet just above the drawn up picots, taking 2 picots together at the top of the scallop, and continue in the same way until it is finished. This is a verj' nice edging for trimming underlinen, and most durable. im, ''M' A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION'. -*♦»- Owiiij to the announcement nf Prizes in llic Cotnp till •», »^i f-^' ?^^ -«*^-*;i B5?l:^*^«* 'ifyfvli^T. VH" ---^*»^-^_i t<^ SQUARE FOR QUILT. Strutts' knitting cotton No. 6^ bone needle No. 1 6 (Bell gauge). Make 2 chain, turn, work 3 double into 2nd from needle ; turn, i chain I double into ist stitch, 3 into the centre one, and i on the next (always taking the back part of stitch), i chain, turn, i double into each stitch, 3 into the centre one, and i on each of the next, i chain, turn and repeat, increasing 2 stitches each row until there are 4 in all. 2 chain, turn, i treble into 1st stitch, * 2 chain, miss ; 3 treble into 4th stitch, repeat from * 4 times; 3 chain, 3 treble into same stitch as last 3, * 2 chain, miss 3, 3 treble, repeat from * 4 limes, 3 chain, turn, i treble into ist stitch, * 2 chain, 3 treble under last chain, repeat from * 5 times, 2 chain, 3 treble into sarne as last 3, * 2 chain, 3 treble, repeat from * ; this ends ist_ section of square. Work 3 more the same, and join all together with double. PRETTY STAR FOR ANTIMACASSAR. Make a chain of 8, unite into a round. 2nd row — 20 double into the 8 chain. 3rd row — i double on every double of previous row. 4th row — 18 chain, I double into every double. Jth row — 5 chain, i double into middle of 18 chain. 6lh row— 6 chain, I double into each 5 chain. 7th row — 7 chain, i double into each 6 chain Sth row— 8 chain, i double into each 7 chain. 9th — 9 chain, I double into each 8 chain. This completes the pattern. 188 THE ARCH EDGING AND INSERTION. This very simple pattern is suitable for trimming underhnen where both insertion and edging are used. It should then be worked in No. 30 crochet cotton, or finer if prel'erred, using a fine steel needle. It makes a very fine antimacassar if worked in loom thread. Ribbon that will contrast prettily with the cream colour of the cotton should be sewed between the stripes of insertion, and the edge should be sewed all round, putting it on full at the corners. A pretty summer cot quilt can be made by joining rows of the in- sertion done in coarse knitting cotton together, and lining the quilt with coloured silk or sateen. Then sew edging, done in the same cotton, all round. For Edging. — Work a chain the length required. 1st row — miss 2, * 3 treble into next 3 chain stitches, miss 2, 3 chain, 8 double into next 8 chain stitches, 3 chain, miss 2 ; repeat from * to end ; fasten off. 2nd row — 3 treble into first 3 treble of ist row, i treble into next chain stitch, * 3 chain, miss next 2 chain stitches and i double, work 6 doubles into next 6 doubles of last row. In both trebles and doubles always catch up only the back half of the stitches of preceding row. 3 chain, miss I double and 2 chain stitches of last row, i treble into next chain stitch, 3 trebles into 3 trebles of last row, i treble into next chain stitch ; repeat from * to end ; fasten off. 3rd row — i treble into first treble of last row, 3 chain, i treble into same treble as last, * 2 trebles into next 2 trebles, 3 chain, miss 3 chain and i double of last row, work 4 doubles into the next 4 doubles of last row, 3 chain, miss i double and 3 chain of last row, and work three trebles into next three trebles, 3 chain, i treble into same stitch as last treble ; repeat from * to the end ; fasten off. 4th row — i treble into first treble of last row, * 2 chain, i treble into 3 chain of last row, 2 chain, i treble into the same 3 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble into next 3 trebles of last row, 3 chain, miss 3 chain and i double of last row, 2 double into next 2 double, miss i double and 3 chain, 3 trebles into next 3 trebles, repeat from * to end ; fasten off. 5th row — I treble into first treble of last row, * 4 chain, i single stitch into 2nd chain stitch of 4 chain, i chain, i treble into next 2 chain of last row ; repeat from * twice more, 4 chain, i single into 2nd chain stitch, I chain, 3 trebles into next 3 trebles, 3 trebles into next 3 trebles ; repeat from * to end ; fasten off. For Insertion. — Work a piece of edging the length required, then commence on the opposite side of the foundation chain. Work the first row of the edging, taking care to work the 3 trebles and 8 doubles into the same chain stitches into which they were worked in the first row of the edging, only, of course, on the opposite of the chain ; fasten off. Work 2nd and following rows of edging so that it will correspond with the side already done. Loom thread No. 5I can be obtained from A. E. K-, Box 10, P.O., Ballymena, at 6d. per skein, post free. Coarser numbers at 8d. per skein. The coarser numbers are suitable for the cot quilt. They are very large. THE FANCY WORK-CASKET. PRETTY EDGING. Make a chain the length re- I quired, i double in each of the first 3 chain, * 5 chain slipstitch into the 4th of foundation.j chain jsl'pstitch into the same, then 3 (more consecutive double. Re- i peat from * to the end of the row. and row — i doubel into the 1st hole, 5 chain, i double into the nexthole,*! c'oable into the next, 5 chain, i double into next, repeat from *. For the edging, 2 double, 5 chain, 2 double, 5 chain, 2 double into every loop of 5 chain. WAVED BRAID EDGING. Materials required : — i tUMM 4 1^ 8 e 9 ill Si ^i\- IXr'^ S^ No. 16, steel hook No. 5. Commence by working I double crochet into a ___ point of the braid, then rj)S work * 5 chain, i double .^? into the next point of braid, 5 chain, I double into ne.xt, 5 chain, i double into next, makin g 3 points, worked thus ; I double taking up the 3 next points of the braid all at once. Repeat from * all along the braid, until you get the length required, then work in the same way Iheothersideof thebraid, only work the 3 points over those you missed in the previous row, and catch together those over the worked ones. Now for the edge — work 7 chain, I double crochet for 5 times into each hole, this forms a fringy edge. Now for the heading at top — you work 8 chain and i double crochet into the centre hole of scallop, and continue to end of the work; then for the last row you work i chain, I treble into every other chain all along ; this finishes this very pretty edging. BABY'S EDGINGS. No. i. ^iS^^lS/^^SSCtSi^^^i^^'^ chet cotton No. 24, Gordon or mig- Jnardise braid No. i or 2, steel hook Im^^t^^ ^'^' 7' Commence by working a !l{ft^;^^^' slip stitch with i chain between into ""^ every picot of the braid all along I the length required, this is to sew it on by ; you then begin the other side of the liraid, and work 3 treble into every other hole, that is, leave i picot of the braid between each set of 3 treble, no chain between. Work in this way all along the braid ; break off, and for the 2nd row you work 4 chain, I double crochet into every hole between the 3 treble stitches of the previous row. This is to finish off the edging, and is so very simple that a child cr beginner can do it, and trims up little clothes very nicely. No. 2. Materials required : — A length of I Gordon braid, Coats's crochet cotton l^nanHBnjw No. 22, steel hook No. 6. This edging ' ■r^Fwr iMS '^ worked lengthways and commenced ^ . I& .1^. Jfl,!. ..*i by making a slip-stitch into every ] picot of the braid all along one side; you ' then work on the other side 2 chain, lunj cvciy uLuci picot of braid, leaving i picot between each hole, repeat in the same way to the end of braid. Then for the 2nd row, to form the edge, you work 1 double crochet, 3 treble, i double crochet into every hole. This forms a very durable little trimming for the baby's nightdresses, and is a very simple pattern. VERY SIMPLE EDGING. 16 chain, turn, miss 5 stitches, I treble into next stitch *, 2 chain, miss 2, and i treble into next stitch. Repeat from * 3 times more. * * Turn, 4 chain, i treble into last 2 chain of last row, * 2 chain, I treble into next 2 chain. Repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, I treble into the same chain as lasttreble; turn, 4 chain, i treble into > Tt mtk v% JlJUUIC last chain of last row, 2 chain, i treble into next 2 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble into next 2 chain, 3 treble into each 2 chain to end of row. There should be 12 trebles close together ; 3 chain, turn, I treble into each treble of the next 9 of p' -.ceding row, 3 chain, miss 3 trebles, l treble into next 2 chain, 2 chain, I treble into 2 following holes, 2 chain, x treble into same 2 chain as last treble. Turn, 4 chain, I treble into last 2 chain of last row, 2 chain, i treble into next 2 chain three times, 2 chain, miss 2 trebles of last row, i treble into next stitch. Repeat from '■■ *. LATTICE PATTERN. Materials required : — Coats's :rochet cotton No. 22, steel look No. 6. Commence by naking a chain of 14, turn, nissing 5 chain, i treble in 61I1, I chain, I treble into the cj{h :hain, 5 chain, i double into the Drk 12 double crochet stitches into the hole made by the 5 chain in last row, then without any chain between work 8 double crochet stitches into next hole, then work 2 chain, i treble into little hole at the end, turn with 5 chain, I treble into ist hole, then 4 chain, I treble over the 2nd in the 1st row, then 5 chain, i double crochet into the 6th double crochet stitch of the 12 in last row turn ; with 2 chain, and work 12 double crochet into the same hole, 8 double crochet into the next, on chain between, and 2 chain, i treble into last hole; this forms 2 patterns. Repeat for length required. This is a very easy pattern to work, and everlasting wear. FAN-LEAF EDGING. Alaterials re- quired: — A piece of Gordon braid No. 3, Coats's cro- chet cotton No. 20, steel hook No. 5. Commence by working i double crochet stitch into a picot of the braid, leaving about 2 inches un- worked,* 14 chain, miss 4 picots, I treble into 5lh picot, 9 treble in succession, that is, I into each picot for 9 more times, then make 7 chain, and unite to the 7th chain of the 14, then work 7 chain and miss 3 picots, l double crochet into the 4th, i chain, I double 3 times, making 3 holes ; repeat from *. Now for the heading at top — you work 2 chain, I treble into every 3rd chain all along the top. Bottom edge — you must now work as follows : — 3 chain, i double crochet into picot exactly opposite the ist treble of scallop, 3 chain, I double for 9 times more, thus making 10 holes altogether, miss 10 picots and work in the same way for the 2nd scallop, and repeat until the length required. 2nd or last row — fasten on with i double crochet in a hole, 7 chain, unite 7th into 2nd stitcli from needle, i double crochet into next hole, and re- peat 6 times more, then i double crochet in next 2 holes between the 2 scallops, and repeat till every scallop is the same. VERY PRETTY NIGHTDRESS EDGING. JMaterials C o mmence by working J chain, unite into a ring to form a small hole, turn, with 3 chain, 2 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into the hole. 2nd row — turn with 5 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain,' 3 treble into hole formed by 2 chain, 3 more treble over last 3 treble of previous row, making 6 treble altogether at ihe end of row, 3 chain, i treble into same stitch. 3rd row — turn ■xfith 5 chain, 6 treble over the 6 treble of last mw, 3 treble, 2 chain, 189 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 3 treble into hole of last row. 4th row, turn with 5 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into hole, 9 treble over 9 of last row, 3 chain, i treble into 3rd of the 5 chain you turned 3rd row in the 5th row, turn, with 5 chain, i treble on ist reble, * 3 chain, miss 2 treble, i treble in next ; repeat from * twice, 3 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into the hole. This finishes i pattern. 2nd scallop — turn, with 5 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into hole, 3 treble over next 3 treble of last row, 3 chain i treble over next treble. 2nd row — 5 chain, 6 treble over last 6 treble, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into hole. 3rd row — turn with 5 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into hole, 9 treble over 9 of last row, 3 chain, I treble in 3rd of 5 chain at end of row. 4th row — 5 chain, i treble on 1st treble, * 3 chain, miss 2 treble, i treble in next ; repeat from * twice more, 3 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into hole. Every scallop is like the 2nd. Now for the heading — you work 7 chain, 2 double crochet into every point or hole at the top ; this is for sewing on by. Kow to finish the bottom edge — fasten on in a hole, work 7 chain and unite the 6th to the 2nd chain (to form a picot), i double into ne.\t hole, with the exception of the i between each scallop, when I double crochet stitch into that and the next keeps it pointed. This is an exceedingly pretty and effective pattern. i Vi kVV MEDALLION EDGING. Commence with i treble into last loop of ist medallion, * 3 chain, 3 treble on ist loop of next medallion, 2 chain, 3 treble into next loop, 3 chain, miss a loop, 3 treble into next loop, 2 chain, miss a loop, 3 treble into next loop. Repeat from * all along. 2nd row — turn, 4 chain, * 3 treble into 2 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble into next 3 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble into same 3 chain into which you worked the last 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into next 2 chain, 2 chain, i double into 3 chain between the medallions, 2 chain ; repeat from *. 3rd row^turn, 5 chain, * miss 3 trebles, 3 trebles into next chain, 2 chain, 3 trebles into next 3 chain, 3 chain, 3 trebles into same 3 chain into which you worked last trebles, 2 chain, 3 trebles into next 2 chain, 4 chain, i double into double stitch of last row between the medallions, 4 chain ; repeat from *. 4th row — i single into last 4 chain, i double into same 4 chain, * 6 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, i double into next chain ; repeat from * all along, fasten off. For heading — commence on opposite side of braid, i treble into' last loop of ist medallion, * 3 treble into ist loop of next medallion, i chain, 3 treble into next loop, I chain, miss a loop, 3 treble into next loop ; repeat from *, turn. 2nd row — 5 chain, i long treble between the 3 treble in last loop of 1st medallion and the 3 treble in ist loop of next medallion, * 2 chain, miss 3 trebles, i treble into ne.xt chain stitch, 3 chain, I treble into next chain stitch, 3 chain, i treble into next chain stitch, 2 chain, i long treble after next 3 trebles ; repeat from *. No. 2 medallion braid and No. 20 crochet cotton go nicely together. Use a fine steel crochet needle. PRETTY EDGING. No. 30 Cotton. Make 6 chain, unite by a slipstitch into a round, ist round — 5 chain (3 of these are to form a treble), i treble into ring, 2 chain, i treble 6 times more, 2 chain, fasten into 3rd of the 5 chain you com- menced round with. You have 8 holes. 2nd round — 6 chain, i double into every treble of last row. 3rd round— 7 treble into hole formed by chain, i double over double and repeat all round. Fasten off. This completes one star. The second star is made exactly the same till you have worked the 7 trebles 6 times, then work 4 trebles, catch the 4th treble in 7th group of 7 trebles of first star, then finish scallop and do 4 treble of next one, catch 4th treble of 8th scallop of first star. Finish scallop and fasten off. The third 190 and every successive star should be joined at the 3rd scallop ficir last joining. When sufficient have been done, do the edgirg Fasten on in the middle of fourth scallop from joining, 6chiin i double into 4th treble of next scallop, * 7 chain and double into 4th of next, 6 chain i double into joining that unites the 2 stars. 6 chain i double into next scallop and repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — * 7 double into ist loop of 6 chain, 12 doubles into loip of 7 chain, 7 doubles into next loop of 6 chain and lepeat from * ;o end of row. For heading, fasten on in next middle scallop to t' at holding last loop of edging; * 6 chain i double into next scalloi , 7 chain i double into next 6 chain, i double into joining that unites 2 stars. Repeat from * the length of work. Next row — * 2 cha n i treble into ist hole of 6 chain, 2 chain i treble into same 2 cha n, I treble into next hole. Repeat twice into same hole. 2 chain i treble twice into next hole. Repeat from *. Next row — 3 doubles into every hole of 2 chain. INFANT'S JACKET IN MOSAIC STITCH. little This jacket is an excellent pat- tern for an infant of from one to three months old to wear under its cloak. The fronts are made wide so that they lap over well across the chest,and pre- vent any cold air getting in at the opening of the cloak. Mosaic stitch is a good one for wear. It does not become dragged or raggy, as so many stitches do when worn for a while, as every stitch s firmly secured in its place in each suc- cessive row. This little jacket requires 3 skeins of Shetland wool. If preferred, it may all be done in white, or, if a coloured border is liked, one of the skeins should be coloured. A bone needle of medium size should be used ; if too fine, the jacket would be too small, and if too coarse it would be too raggy. If a jacket for an older child be required, merino wool and a coarse needle might be used. The pattern must all be worked on the right side, so that in each row the thread must be broken of at the end. Commence by working in double white wool a foundation chain of 65 stitches, turn, with the wool single work the rest thus : 1st row — * miss i, 8 treble, miss i, i double, repeat from * to the end of the chain, then break off the thread. 2nd row — commence with I double into the ist stitch of the ist row, throw the thread round the needle and insert it at the right side of the ist treble stitch at the back of the stitch through to the front (having only 2 strands above) and out again to the back at the left side, draw through the wool and proceed as for a treble stitch, but instead of drawing the wool through the 3rd time as in treble stitch, leave a loop on the needle, as in tricoter stitch ; you should thus have 2 loops on the needle. Work the same way into the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th trebles (there should be 5 loops on the needle), * draw a thread through all, and close with a chain stitch. Work 3 chain, i double between the 4th and 5th trebles of the preceding row ; then make 8 tricoter trebles into the 4 remaining trebles of that fan, and the 4 1st trebles of the next fan ; repeat from * till you come to the top of the last fan. Finish the end of the row with 4 tricoter trebles and close ; break off the thread. 3rd row — commence, as in the 2nd row, with a double into the foundation row of chain ; work 12 trebles into the chain stitch which closed the ist 4 tricoter trebles THE FANCY WORR-BASKET. I I. of last row, * i double into the same stitch as the double in the last row, taking care that the double in this row shall entirely hide the double of last row, 8 trebles in the closing stitch of the 8 tricoter trebles, repeat from *. Finish off the row by working 12 trebles^ and then i double into the foundation row ; break off the thread. 4th row — ^'i double between the 9th and loth trebles of last row, work all across, as in the 2nd row, endmg with i double between the 4th and 5 th trebles of the last fan. 5 th row— commence by work- ing I double into the same stitch as the 1st double of last row ; work 4 fans of 8 trebles with I double between. Put 1 2 trebles into the 5 th and 6th fans ; then work fans of 8 trebles till you come to the 5th and 6th from the other end, put 12 trebles into each of them, and finish off with 4 fans of 8 treble, i double. 6th row — commence by working 4 tricoter trebles into the 1st 4 trebles of last row, close, 3 chain, i double, * 8 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, i double, re- peat from * 3 times more. You have now come to the ist of the fans of 1 2 trebles ; work 4 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, i double between the 8th and 9th of the 12 trebles, then 8 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, i double, 4 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, i double between the 8th and 9th trebles of the fan, * 8 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, i double, repeat from * till you have worked to the 4th treble of the next fan of 12 trebles. Work these fans as you did the other large ones, and complete the row as you began it, ending it with the half pattern of 4 tricoter trebles, close ; break off the thread. 7th row — join with a double stitch to the ist stitch of the 5th row, then work 12 trebles into the ist closmg stitch of the last row, proceed as in the 3rd row, finishing with 12 trebles, i double into the 5th row. 8th row — the same as the 4th row. 9th row — commence by working i double into the same stitch as the ist double of last row ; work fans of 8 treble all across, with i double between. loth row — commence and end the same as the 6th row, working 8 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, i double the whole way across, nth row — work this row the same as the 7th row, only that you must work 12 trebles into the 7th fan from each end. 12th row — the same as the 4th row, only watching for the fans containing 12 trebles and working them as directed in the 6th row. 13th row — work the same as the 9th row, only that in the 5th, 9th, 12th, 15th and 19th fans you must work 12 trebles. 14th row — work the same as the 6th row, with this difference, that the large fans come in different parts of the row. i sth row — the same as the 7th row. i6th row — the same as the 4th row. 17th row — in-this row the commencement of the sleeve is formed ; work the 1st 4 fans the same as in the 9th row. In working the 5th fan, fold the work so that you work into the closing stitch of the nth pattern at the same time as you work into the 5th pattern of last row. Then work the next fan into the 12th pattern ; continue to work as in the 9th row till you come to the i8th pattern, then miss 5 patterns, and v/ork the i8th and 24th patterns together for the 2nd sleeve ; finish the row with 4 more fans. i8th row — the same as the loth row. 19th row — the same as the 7th row. 20th row — the same as the 4th row. 21st row — the same as the 9th row, only working 12 trebles into the 7th and loth fans. 22nd row — the same as the loth row, working into the large fans as directed in the 6th row. 23rd row — the same as the 7th row, only working 12 trebles into the 9th and loth fans. 24th row — with the pink wool work the same as the 4th row, working into the large fans as directed in the 6th row. 25th row— with the pink wool work the same as the 9th row. 26th row — with the white wool work the same as the loth row. 27th row — with the white wool work the same as the 7th row. Now fasten off all the ends of wool neatly and commence the border. Begin the neck of the jacket with the pink wool, to work 4 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, i double. Then work all round the jacket 8 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, i double, except at each comer, wliere you must turn by working 2 half patterns of 4 tricoter trebles. For the last row — work fans of 9 trebles, separated by i double all round the jacket ; fasten oft'. For the sleeve. — In white wool work 6 fans of 8 trebles all round ; fasten off. Then commence at the point of a fan with i double, and work round the sleeve a row of 8 tricoter trebles, close, 3 chain, I double, and then a row of 8 treble, i double ; fasten off. Repeat these 2 last rows twice more in white wool, then in pink, again in white, and finish off the sleeve by working them in pink, putting 9 trebles into the last row of fans. For the Collar. — Turn the wrong side of the work towards you, and work in the pink wool a row of fans into the foundation chain, spacing them so as to have 12 fans across the neck. With the white wool work 2 rows like the 4th and 5th, omitting the large fans ; then with the pink wool work 2 rows like the 9th and loth, putting 9 trebles into each fan. Work a cord of double pink wool by making a chain of the required length, and adding a row of double stitch all along ; run this through the foun- dation chain and add a tassel to each end. Put a tiny stitch in the collar here and there at the edge to keep it in its place. VERY EASY WORK FOR CHILDREN. Tea-Pot .Stand. You can use up any odds and ends of double Berlin wool in two or three shades, we will say, blue, black, and white, so that the direc- tions for working may be clear. You will want a round piece of cardboard and some lining or any material you have by you. Bone hook No. 6. Commence by making 3 chain with blue, and unite, work 2 double crochet stitches into each chain. 2nd row — with white, 2 stitches between each of last row. 3rd row — black, in same way. 4th row — same in white, but only i stitch between each of last row. 5th row — in blue, no increasing. 6th row — same in blue. 7th row— in white, 2 stitches into every 3rd to increase, I into the others. Sth row — in black, no increasing. 9th row — white, no increasing. loth row — blue, increase in every 3rd stitch by working 2 into I, I into the others. nth row — blue, no increasing. 12th row — white, no increasing. 13th row — black, increase. 14th row — white, no increasing. 15th row — blue, no increasing. This finishes the round. Now cut a piece of card- board (any old box lid would do) the size of the crochet round, now cover with a piece of lining and sew the crochet and cardboard neatly together at the edge. Tea-kettle and Iron-Holder. These can both be made in the same way as tea-pot stand, only not so large and no cardboard. Begin same as the stand, but only work 12 rows instead of 15, and make a loop of chain in double wool, about 8 chain and i double crochet to keep it down, and fill it up very thickly with double crochet ; this is to hang it up by. Line it with a piece of carpet, felt, or any thick material you may have by you, and put outside a piece to match lining of stand, sew the edges neatly together. Tea-Pot Holder. Work in same, way with single Berlin, as the double would be too clumsy for this purpose ; work 10 rows, and at the edge work i double crochet, 3 chain looped back, to form a picot into each stitch of last row. Line with a piece of felt, or something thick It is better to make all to match in colour if you can. CANVAS CHAIR BACK. This chair - back has the advantage of novelty, and therefore will be ac- ceptable to many who are fond of pretty new things tha . are at the same time inexpensive to make. A simple straight piece of canvas is needed about the size of an ordinar)- antima- cassar. This maybe obtained at various London shops un- der the name of Congress Canvas, and not unfrequent- ly has a few threads of tinsel woven into it, which lightens up its appearance con- siderably. The piece of canvas is hemmed neatly all round, and at each side is embroidered a spray of flowers,as shown in the illus- tration. They may be worked either in silks or in woollen arrasene. A fringe is sewn on at the ends, or lace if preferred, and finally a fine piece of cord with a tassel at each end is run in and out through the holes, one pull of these will draw it up when on the back of the chair, so that 191 THE FANCY WORK-EASK.Ef the two ends fall somewhat in fan fashion, tlie embroidered flowers then taking their position at the back of the chair. Many of these chair-backs are ornamented by being embroidered in cross-stitch, any handsome pattern being chosen for the purpose. TENNIS RACKET PINCUSHION. Cut two pieces of cardboard in the exact shape of a tennis racket, and any size that is considered convenient. Cover both pieces of =^ the card with coloured silk very I ' neatly ; it will need considerable I J adroitness to get the silk to lay flat where the handle joins the racket. This is especially the case when the pincushion is a very small one. Then it is better to cover the card with the silk, but to leave the handle uncover- ed, and to twist ribbon of the same colour round it afterwards. When this is settled, take some very fine gold cord, and twist strands of it across the racket in the same way that the guts of a real one are done. Secure each one at the sides with a stitch, and then sew a band of gold braid all round to hide the ends of the cord. Finally take the other piece of card that has been plainly covered with the silk and sew it to the other round the edges. The pins are then stuck in between the stitches. The other side of the racket may be ornamented with the gold thread in the same way as the first one. PRETTY PENCE JUG. Materials required :— quarter of an ounce of white single Ber- lin, half-ounce of blue or any colour liked, steel hook No. ij. Commence by making a chain of two with the blue wool, unite and work in rounds of double crochet, by making 2 stitches into I, when necessary to keep it quite flat ; work about 5 rows in this manner, then throw the wool over the needle and draw up loosely in 3 loops on to your hook, and unite these 3 loops by I chain ; you work in this way all round in every other stitch of double crochet in last row for 18 times ; this is to form a band or pattern round the jug ; fasten on white wool and draw up 3 loops loosely on your hook, and unite by I chain in same way as last row. Work i of these tufts between each tuft of the previous row; now fasten on blue wool and work i row in same way (it is a good plan to keep both balls of wool going, so as to slip it up from time to time, instead of breaking off); these 3 rows of tufts complete the band. For the neck you work in white a row of double crochet, i stitch between each tuft; this draws it up to right shape; work 2 more rows in white in the same way, which completes the neck. Now for the spout. You work in blue a row of double crochet in just the same way, but increase at each of the 3 centre stitches by working 2 into one. 2nd row — just the same. 3rd row — same. 4th row — same. 5th row — increase for 7 times instead of 3 at centre, by going into more stitches twice ; this increasing makes a sort of flat to fall over the neck (if you prefer the spout to be quite upright you need not increase in the last row). 6th row— work all round i double crochet into each stitch without any increasing. For the handle — make 20 chain rather on one side, turn and work 18 double crochet stitches, leaving 2 chain to turn at the beginning. Now sew it to 192 the first row of the blue for spout ; it will then be in the middle, when this pretty little jug will be completed. Of course you can use up any odd wools you may have by you. TABLE NAPKIN RING.- The illustration shows a newkind of table nap- kin ring, which is so«con- trived as to keep steady on the table, and not to roll off so constantly as the others are apt to do. Suchtablenapkin rings(if we may call a thing a ring that is not ^ijCular) can be made of various ma- terials very prettily and daintily, and require such small scraps of material only, that they may be said to cost absolutely nothing at all. Card- board, plush and silk are all that is required, ex- cept cord, ribbon or any- thing that may be con- sidered as an additional ornament. Cut one piece of cardboard, 4J inches long by 2 inches wide, and a second piece 2 inches square ; cover them both with plush, or with whatever material is chosen for the outside, sew them together neatly down the sides, as shown in the illustration. Cut and join two pieces of silk in the same manner, and sew this into the table napkin ring to serve as a lining, finally sewing a cord along the edges and down the seams to hide the stitches. There are many ways of adding to the appearance of these pretty trifles, especially by embroidery or by painting" on them. Satin, of course, is more appropriate for painting on than is plush. Another very tasteful way of making these rings is to make one as before de- scribed, using satin for the outside, A piece of satin ribbon is then passed tightly round the ring and tied at the top with a stylish bow and short ends. Secure the ribbon here and there with an invisible stitch. An acceptable gift might consist of a set of half a dozen of these table napkin bands, each tied up with ribbon of a different colour, so that each person at table may readily recog- nise his own table napkin. BALL WORK-BAG. Cut 18 long diamond shaped pieces of card- board, each measuring I J inches wide in the middle and tapering gradually to a point at the ends. These pieces of card must be cover- ed with silk or satin of anycolours — more the better, and then should be each lined with any soft silk. When they are all prepared in this manner, they must be sewn together down the sides, with the ex- ception of the last, which must be left free. At the two ends of the ball thus made must be sewn a piece of ribbon to act as a handle and to hang it up by it necessarv. Three silk tufts or pompons should be added as an additional ornament. We have seen these work- bags made soft, that is, without any cardboard inside. The model from which these directions were taken was brought home from Paris, and was carried out in green and yellow satin. TRACING WHEELS. No i suiU-iUe for Tracing everj- description of Fancy Work, 18 stamps post free, ' ' Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, Lon Jon, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. MRS. LEACH'S SECOND PRIZE COMPETITION IN FANCY WORK. In censequence of the number of articles sent in, and tlie great taste and skill exKibited by many competitors, we have decided to present them with 40 additional prizes of Ss. 6d. A Prize Certificate is also sent to all successful caadidateSj and a Certificate of Merit to those unsuccesfcful competitors whose work deserves it. All the prize articles may be bad at the prices affixed. Should no price be affixed, they are not for sale. The articles will he speedily returned with P. 0. 0. and Certificate to all successful competitors, whose names and addresses are given hereunder, but as some little delay must necessarily ensue, we must beg a few days' grace. The descriptions of the best designs, illustrated, will be inserted from time to time in future issues of the " Work-Basket." Five Prizes of £1 Is. Xo. 5. Miss Hemberow, Park Hill, Lyiidhurst, Hants, for a crochet summer quilt in cotton. No. 9. Mies Young, Station Road, Hitchin, Herts, fol-a handsome wool sofa rug, in tricot stripes, elaretand faded greens, with yellow diamonds, double Berlin, very large. Price £2 10s. No. 10. Miss Maria Tompson, Franklands, Burgess Hill, Sussex, for a crochet quilt. Sold £1 Is. No. 14. Mrs. Wilson, Croix, France (Nord), for crochet lace trimming for a child's dress, exquisitely designed. No. 41. Miss Triffie Turner, 116, High Street, Shore- ditch, London, for a very large and handsome crochet cottou quilt, in shells. Ten Prizes of 10s. 6d. 20. Miss Humphreys, 51, High Street, Kington, Here- fordshire, for a very handsome crochet cotton antima- cassar, rose, shamrock and thistle. 24. Miss Ballinger, 22, Summer Lane, Birmingham, for a crewel work and crochet antimacassar. Sold 12s. Od. 25. Miss French, High Street, Stony Stratford, Bucks, for a crochet sofa rug iu double Berlin, shaded green and red, American shell pattern. Price £2. 33. Mrs. John Whitmore, West View, Westaston Road, WillastoD, near Nantwich, Cheshire, for a handsome cot- ton antimacassar in crochet. Pi ice £1. 86. Miss Sybil Clutterbuck, 14, Kinnell Street, Rhyl, N. Wales, for a crochet cottou antimacassar, stripes of chrysanthemums and satin ribbon. 107. Mrs. Holton, 57, Ashworth Road, St. Peter's Park, London, W., for a crochet cot quilt in cotton. Price £1 Is. 120. MissNewbrook,VineCottage,Willaston, near Nant- wich, for a knitted autimacasaar, plaited pattern, in olive- green and red. Piice £1. 131. Miss Smart, College Road, Epsom, Surrey, for a crochet wool table cover, water lihea and fern leaves. Price 7s. 140. Miss Tennant, Brandlce, Dawley, Salop, for a crochet table cover. 142. Miss Emma Bracegirdle, North View, WiUaston, Nantwich, for a crochet antimacassar. Twenty Prizes of 6s. 1. Mrs. Bennion, '66, Southbank Road, Southport, for a child's dolman (7 years), white 'and pink double Berlin, finished pink ribbon, point neige, £1 5s. la. Miss Bennion, of same address, for a knitted sba wl. 3. Miss Aston, 83, St. John's Street, Bury St. Edmunds, for a black ice w«ol shoulder cape, very effective. Price 128. 6d. 8. Mrs. Worthington, 58, Granville Street, Swinton, near Manchester, for a pair of knitted cui-taina, leaf and trellis pattern. Price 93. 6d. 16. Miss Eliza Gibson, 1. South Stirling Street, off Bedford Street, Glasgow, for a lady's crochet and knitted petticoat, fawn and red. Price 7s. 18. Miss Guigell, Bank Buildings, Burgess Hdl, Sus- sex, for a crochet evening dolman. Sold ISs. 6d. ly. Mrs. Clarke, 1, Grosvenor Villas, Weatr.n-super- Mare, Somerset, for an evening mantle in pale blue. 22. Mrs. Inglis, 12, Crosslaud Crescent, Peebles, for a fine white Shetland shawl. Price £1 lOs. 30. Miss A. Cooke, Rose Cottage, West Mersea, Col- chester, Essex, for pretty while crochet shawl, raised pattern, with ball fringe, IJ yards long. Price 10s. 6d. 31. Miss A. Fowler, Netley Hill, Batley, Hants, for a •white and rose. pink Shetland shawl, new pattern, 7s. 6d. 34. Miss Hardy, Ewerley, Sleaford, Lines, for a child's crochet drees, long-sleeved, rose-pink, finished lace and ribbon, fit child of 3. Prioe 14s. 40. Miss Pike, 95, High Street, Stoke Newington, Londo n, for a crochet petticoat. 49. Mrs. Gibbons, Down House, Dvmmow, Essex, for a lady's evening dolman in pale blue and oriental wool, crochet. 50. Mrs. Shuttleworth, 55, Tuftou Street, Westminster, London, for a baby's pelisse, cape and hat in shell stitch (pale pink). Price £1 Is. 87. Mrs. Williams, 21, Bouverie Street, Chester, for a cotton antimacassar. 88. Mi85 Annie E. Franks, Queen Street, Coatham, Redcar, Yorks, for a handsome crochet cotton antimacas- sar. Price 12s. 119. Miss Hoiise, Langley, Wlveliscombe, Somerset, for ladies' knitted combinations. ^ 126. Miss de Pass, 23, Noi-folk Square, Hydo Park, Loudon, for a little boy's white wool frock, finished lace and pale blue ottoman ribbon. Price 7a, 6d. 153. Mr?. Flynn, 8, Magdtila Terrace, Lordship tanc, London, S.Ei , for i* little boy's tricot dress, in amber with pink silk cross stitch and pink ribbons. Price 6s. 6d. 154. Miss Richards, The Firs, Beckenham Road. Lon- don, S.E., for a pretty pale blue dress, trimmgd ribbon and lace, fit 2 yoars. Price Gs. 6d. Forty Prizes of 2b, 6d. 2. Miss C. Sayer, Mill Lane, Cambridge, for a groy shawl in ci'azy stitch. 12. Miss A. West, Hawthorne Road, Bickley Park, Kent, for a gentleman's knitted coat. 13. Mrs. Ferguson Wilson, Bogaide, Alloa, N.B., for a little boy's crochet dress for 2 years in red wheeling yarn, piice 5s. 17. Miss Sarah Moss, West View, Goldsmith Gardens, Acton, for a crochet shawl. 27. Mrs. Fumeaux, 68, Westmoreland Rd., Camberwell, London, for a little girl's crochet Granny bonnet in pale blue. Sold 3g. 28. Mrs. Yates, 1, Promenade Villas, Oxford Rd., Glou- cester, for a baby boy's white wo»l hat, very handsome, price 4s. Cd. 36. Miss Wheeler, Gloucester Villas, Swindon, Wilts, for an invalid's knitted bed rest, price 43. 38. Miss Edith Headley, 4, Prince Street, Bridlington Quay, Yorks, for a handsome crochet antimacassar ia stripes, price lOs. 48. Miss Neve, Witteraham, Kent, for a dressed dojl. Sold 4s. 6d. 52. Miss Bryan, 3, West Street, Brighton, Sussex, for a jet-beaded bonnet, crochet, price los, rcrtdy for wear. 53. MissCarnegy, 21, Imperial Square, Cheltenham, for a lady's opera hood. Sold 10s. tid. 54. Mrs. Martin, 11, Park Terrace, Cambridge, for an infant's bib, very handsome, price 3s. Od. 55. Miss Jennie Owler, 20, William Street, Forcbank, Dundee, for a knitted curtain, tulip j attern. ?4. Miss L. Wolrige, 25, Lanark Villas, Clifton Road, Maida Hill, London, for a crochet night dress bag. Sold 3a. 6d. 94. Mrs. Welton, Sunnybank, Towcester, Northampton- shire, for a handbag in grey macramfi cord, lined Sitin. Price 6s. ; also a fawn one, same price. 95. Miss Editli Higgs, 26, Upper Park Place, Dorset Square, London, N.W., for a baby girl's white crochet hood in pompadour wool, lined and trimmed. Price 33. 6d. 98. Mrs. Scoble, 24, Lord Napier Street, Ordsal Park, Salford, Manchester, for a baby's robe front, &.C., in crochet and braid. 100.— Mrs. Locham, 2, Cara Villas, Wrexham, North Wales, for a music-stool cover in crochet. 102.— Mrs. Bloomfield, Fobbing, Stanford - le - Hope, Essex, for a large egg cosy. 114.— Miss Lily Pamell, care of Miss Brooks> Brook-. holme. Shepherd's Bush, W., for a knitted eloud. 116. — Miss Agnes de Hamel, 7a, Avenue Road, Regent's Park, London, for a child's crochet petticoat in ribs, white and pink. Price 2s. 3d. 118.— Mrs. Jones, 64, Glamorgan Street, Brynmawr, Breconshire, for a child's knitted petticoat. 124.— Miss Smiles, 1 3, Gilmour Street, South Stockton- ou-Tees, for a very pretty crochet chemise top. Price 3s. 8d. 125.— Miss Timson, 16, Talg\irth Road, West Kensing- ton, London, for a child's frock. Sold 6s. 127.— Miss Juha Thomas, 99, Upper North Street, Brighton, for a little Jersey hat in white wool. Price 23. tid. 128.— Miss Emmelio Littlehales, 42, Arbour Street, Southport, fur a lady's knitted undervest. 130.— Miss Wells, care of Mr. J. Wells, Thurmaston, Leicester, for a girl's knitted petticoat. 132. — Miss Field, care of Mr. Rodds, Fobbing, Stanfoi-d- le-Hope, Essex, for a wool antimacassar. 133._Mis8 Agnes Dow, 33, Norland Read, Netting Hill, London, N.W., for a knitted cloud. l4l.— Miss Cardwell, 15, Hawkshead Street, Southport, for a baby boy's hood in silk and wool. 46. — Miss Smith, The Laiu-els, Hitchin. Herts, for a shawl in white Shetland, Canadian fan stitcli, with bor der of red Pompadour wool, large size. Price 15s. 32. — Miss Engisch, 5, Bath lload, Swindon, Wilts, for an opera hood in putfed knitting, pale blue. Price 4s. 6d. Shaded red crochet mat. Is. 9d. 47.— Miss Jones, 126, Conningham Road, Shepherd's Bush, London, for a crochet fichu. 143. — Sliss Head, 8, Canterbury Lane, Canterbury, for a child's jacket in crazy stitch. Price 3s. Fit one year, rose and white. 111.— Miss Annio Hay, 2, Brunswick Terrace. Bath Road, Swindon, for a child's knitted hood, trimmed Hwansdowu and pink rib>x»n. Price 43. 122.- Miss Susannah Gardiner, 13, Middleton Road, Ballingdon Essex, near Sudbury, Suffolk, for a knitted Infants jacket, price 4e.; baby's turban loop hat, Zs. I'd.; ditto, all loops, 3b. 4d., ready for use ; small knitted wrap 4s. 6d. 29. Mrs. J^cob, 20, High East Street, Dorchester, for a baby girl'a hood, 138.— Miss M. Feazey, Costlethorpe, Stony Sti-atford, Bucks, for a chemise trimming in crochet and fancy braid and pink ribbon. Price 5a. 151.— Mrs. Rae, Bellevue, Twynholm, Kirkcudbright, for a crochet hand-basket, finished cardinal ribbon. Price 5s. 37.— Mrs. Sjuter, Rose Cot'age, Elgin, N.B., for a lady's crochet petticoat, new stitch, grey and white Price 9a. 6d. Sale Column for a portion, of the Articles sent in to Mrs. l.each's Prize Competi- tion. NOTICE. — All these articles cUn be guaranteed ai IU'KJ uha.t thuy are ri.prt3cntcd in the advtrtieement^, i.avi-'j been personally sup ri'isal. They cannot be S'^ut on aj-- ■procal. An^icers should be enclos d in a BLAJ^K STAMPED envelope, on uhich is icntten the number attached to the advertisemntt, and be sent w-th ttamps ujidtr cover to Mrs. Leach. 8, Johnson's Court. F/e-t Street, London, KC, when the articles will be sent post free. No. 25a.— Roxmd Crochet Cotton Antimacassar, pretty pattern, Ss 6d. ; No. 3a.— Lady's Crochet Petticoat, shaded red and grey, 8s. 6d. No. ISa,— Pale Blue Toilet Tidies, very pretty. Is. 6d. No. 18b.— Lady's Under Bodice in scarlet wool, crochet fit 22-inch waist, 5s, No. 31.— Lady's Head Wrap, knitted inblueand whitd 4s. 6d.; Crochet Three-comer Shawl, white and blue eider wool, 6s. 6d.; Red Three-comer Shawl, in double Berlin, knitted bramble pattern, Ss, 6d. ; Crochet Shet- land Jacket, 5s. 6d., one to two years. '' No. 114a.— Crochet Shawl in blue, crazy stitch, 6s. Cd. ■ No. I54a.— Pretty little Crochet Petticoat, in white and pale blue, la 9d. No. lo4b.- Lady's Crochet Night-cap, Is. 2d. "No. 54a. — Infant's >hetlaiid Jacket, 4s. Cd, No. 54b.— Infant's Cape and Hood in one, js. No. 116a.— Pretty little Crochet Petticoat, with bodice. Is. 6d. No. 106b —Tricot Skirt for Infant, white and claret, Is. 9d. ■No. 135.— Knitted Tea Cosy in brioche, stripes of red and blue, lined red flannel, trimmed cord, 4s.; Tea-pot Holder to match, l3. No. 83.— Pretty little Infant's White Petticoat, knit- ted with bodice, 3s. No. 44.— Pretty Woolbag in Macram^ Cord, finished ribbon, 33. 6d. No. 110.— Knitted Shawl, two shades of brown, leal pattern, large size, lis. No, 43.— Large Beaded Crochet Pincushion, 3s. 6d. No. 85.— Baby's Imitation Shoe and Sock, blue and white, knitted, very pretty, Od. No, 108.— Salmon Pini Ice wool Fichu, knitted and crochet, Is. 4d. jjo. 97.— Crochet Antimacassar, in knitting cotton, star pattern, 3s. 6d. No. 121.— Wool Antimacassar, imitation JL^rgueritcs, 5s. 6d. No. V".— A Pair of Lady's Steel Beaded Bracelets, knit- ted, fini^ed with bows. Is, 6d, No. 60.— Infant's Crochet Bib, Is. 3d^ No. 62.— Lady's Knitted Cuffs, beaded with steel In points, Is. 3d. , • - - . - No. 105.— Crochet and Knitted Serviette Ring, red and white wool, 6d ; Handsome Egg Cosy, cftrdinal and pa!e blue in tiicot, embroidered crosB stitch, trimmed cord,- lined and quilted. Is. 6d. ; Strawberry Egg Cosy, whit*", pink and yellow, Tid. ; Pretty Crochet Ccttou Watch- pockets, Is. . T_ , , No. 96,— White Shetland Shawl in crazy stitch, \\ yards square, lOs. 6d-, . . . Ko. 7.— Crochet Shetlimd Shawl in crazy stitch, white, \\ yards squai-e, 7s. Gd. ' ^ No. 136.— Pretty little Baby's First Hood, pink and white SbetUnd, 2s. 6d. No, 57. — Gentleman's Crimean Helmet, Is. 6d. 193 THE FAKCV WORIv-BASKKT. SALE COLV UN— continual Ko. 74,— Chilil's Scarlet Kiiittca Petlicoat, kilt pattern, for child of 3 years, with linen bodice, 39. No. 117-— Lady s Knitted Evening Hood, wliite anda- Insian and pale blue pompadour, finished ribbon, 3s. Od. No. 1^3.— Child's Knitted Potticoat, for 4 years, kilt pattern, with fancy border, linen bol'ce, Oa. Od. No. li') —Gentleman's Travelling Uelnict, 2s. Cd. No. 12!). -Set of 4 fine Diaper Doyleys, with fino crochet edge, 5s. Pretty Drawers set in wheel pattern, Is. 2d. or lid. per yard. Pretty Chemise Edging, la. 4d. the set, or 7d. per yard. No. 78.— Boy's Red and White Bicj^clo Cap, in tricot, lined and finished tassel, only 9 1., would fit 7 yeard. No. 117.— Lady's Cape, in white Berlin crazy stitch, high shoulders red ribbon strings, 2". (id. No. 0:i. — Lady's Opera Hood in puffed knitting, pale blue, fini-jhed bows and strings, 2.h lid. No. 00a.— Pretty Teapot Handle H-ldcr, two shades of re J, 9d. No. 00. —Small Knifed Pincushion, Gd. No. 00.— Frctty Drawers Trimming, Grecian key pat tern, Is Od. No 35.— Crochet Wool Antimacassar, shaded green and red in squares, 4s. Od. No. 59.— Pretty little Head Wrap, white and pale pink Shetland, in Canadian fan stitch, finished bow, 2s. 6d. No rn.- Crochet Pincushion Cover, star pattern, in red and fawn Maltese thread, 2s. No. 70a.— Crochet Collar, light brown Maltese thread, Is. 6i. - No. lOU. — Evening Cloud, white double Berlin and pale bine Andalusian, 2s. Od. No. 4.5. — Pair of Knitted Work Bags or Carriage Warmti-s, amber and black stripes, lined amb-r sdk, finished ribbon, 4s. No. 0>j.- Jersey Cap, dark red, finished crewel work spray. 2s. . No. 150.- Pretty little Red Socks, fit clii'd of 2 years, fancy iiatteru, Is. 2d. No. 21. ~ Hands me Ba'^sinettc Quilt in fmcy knitting, re I an ^-y^r>T vyy^ 'y»vy » TT^y^'^yyy^' W y wwV y< Aft Needlework. A visit to the ahnual sale of art needlework at the Royal School of Art, South Kensington, of which Her Royal Highness Princess Christian is president, must convince all who have had the pleasure of inspecting the beautiful work on view, that if we are not "quite" equal to the ladies of olden times in needlework, we are " almost." Indeed, it was remarked that in copying old embroidery the modern work could not be detected from the original. There are two sets of curtain borders, worked by the Queen's orders, in this year's sale, which are very beautiful, and speak highly for the deft fingers of the many industrious ladies who find in this Society the help they need. The institution pays the poor gentlewomen belonging to it for their work, running the risk of reimbursing themselves by the sale of the articles worked. Some of the knicknacks and small etceteras were charming; and who can grumble at a taste which scatters artistic embroidery on nearly every item of the drawing-room and bed-room? Still, when we read the many advertisements offering facility in drawing, painting, &c., without any previous knowledge, we cannot help uttering a doleful protest against what things are coming to 1 However pretty a fancy knicknack may be, it is certainly more prized if it is useful, so we will describe a work-basket. What is more useful than a capacious basket in which knitting or crochet in course of progress, socks, stockings to be darned, and small articles in need of a friendly button or hook can be stowed away ? The re- ceptacles sold for the purpose are, as a rule, too small for real use, therefore the most satisfactory thing to do is to buy a wickerwork basket and cover it yourself with a pretty cretonne or sateen, leav- ing sufficient at the top of the basket to draw up as a bag. Then make a valance of some dark material and work a simple pattern in filoselle. Fig. i is worked with Berlin and filoselle combined on coarse canvas, or separately ; the edges can be outlined with a cord or bordered with variegated ball fringe, which is most effective and very cheap, 6|d. a yard only. Beads in the place of the knot stitch on the top of the threads forming the star give a bright appearance, especially if the foundation is of cloth, velvet, &c. Make little pockets for the inside of the basket and sew firmly to the lining, for cotton, buttons, tapes, &c. The kind of embroidery illustrated on the valance for work-basket is very quickly done, and is useful for many decorations, especially to enhance dark serge for chair covers, sofa pillows, mantel boards. Fig. 2 is a pretty insertion, which can be worked on any material, and would do to trim aprons, dresses, Se ^2^ ■^ ~ ^ &c., as well as for ' % ^ %£ ■>A ^ \^ % furniture decorations. '^.'v,J\^ ^*|p % k, These strips worked on ^ canvas and combined with lace, velvet or satin, make most elegant chair back covers,&c. ; and are also most effective when forming a border for a gipsy-table cover, which cail be either finished oft with a ball worsted fringe or lace ; if worked on oatmeal cloth of course the latter is preferable. Thfe shuttlecock stitches on each pointof the van- dykes — which are incross stitch — are done by working three straight stitches upwards from one point. The same method is used in working the little stars. The lines on each side of the Vandykes are of gold cord, or purse silk; Berlin wool worked over with silk of a contrasting colour is pretty. The shades used should harmonise with the furniture, curtains, &:c., of the room, if for m.antel boardS) antimacassars or tablecloth borders. Penwipers are useful little articles which busy mothers and the most matter-of-fact aunties do not consider waste of time. Made in the form of a butterfly they always meet with a ready sale at bazaars, in spite of the more modern spunge figures — Tabby and her family, dog Toby, &c.,with many other whimsicalities. A most handsome fellow is Fig. 3. The wings must be cut out in cardboard, and covered with silk, velvet or any pretty material you choose, and then worked over according to pattern with contrasting coloured silk and cord ; the antlers are formed by covering wire with brown silk. The body is in padded velvet and beads ; layers of smooth napped cloth, pinked out at the edges, project out a little beyond the wings. This butterfly, cut out in buckram and covered all over with beads, and a gold or black cord surround- ing the entire edge, would make a pretty ornament for- hats, &c. beads White should be used for eyes in that case. Manymoum and sigh for the skill of our grandmothers; but where is the patience required for lace or elabo- rate stitching No IL Fig. 4. Fig. 2. 195 tHE FANCY WORit-BASlCET. in these flyaway days ? We delight in racing along, and could not fidget over an inch or two of elaborate embroidery. Fig. 4 is a pretty little design for a shaving tidy, the materials in all instances being selected according to the taste of its intended recipient. The flower can be worked in satin-stitch, pass§, or chain stitch, and the little dots in the centre should be formed by French knots ; the leaves can be done in long-stitch, with a cord up the leaves. It is the fashion now to have fancy covers for a " Bradshaw, " blotting pad, telegram case, &c., which are scattered about ; and certainly when the outside is so decorated, the articles are far niore ornamental on the drawing-room table. A dainty jewel box is a Fig. 5. charming thing to adoni the dressing-table. An exceedingly pretty one can be made with a round box arranged in the following manner. Divide it into four compartments, lining each with quilted silk or sateen. Cover the outside with plain satin. The cover will have to be cut into four pieces the size of each compartment, and edged with cord. Cord would also be placed on the top of each compartment. Fasten each triangle to the box according to Fig. 5. A little flower or design should be worked on each lid. A frill of lace all round the box, and bows of ribbon make a pretty finish. An ingenious worker will readily turn to account scraps of silk, &c , odds and ends of filoselle, and many of the etceteras of her treasured hoard, for each triangle of the cover can be of different colours. They can likewise be covered with pink or blue sateen under white lace, with bows to match, and would make one of a set of glove- cases, bed pockets, &c. When the boys of a family have a taste for fretwork, very pretty ewel boxes can be made and lined with bright coloured satin — pink shows up the woodwork the best ; the compartments, if any, must be of quilted satin ; pale blue stitched with cardinal and a French knot in each corner of the squares has a pretty appearance, or pink, with grey. A small padlock can be fixed to a box of this kind. Bead Work. The home manufacture of bead lace and ornaments has become quite a fascinating pastime now that bonnets, dresses and mantles are so much trimmed with them. There are the coloured metallic and smoother " satin " beads, as well as pearls, for the em- broidery of bonnet crowns, lace, waistcoats, panels of dresses, &c., and, of course, black bugles of many shapes. Added to these all kinds of freaks have been played with the colours, which bring many effects into designs intermixed with plain beads, chalk white, clear glass and pearls. But it is not on such elaborate styles we wish to give a few hints. Nothing is more elegant than pearls and bugles combined for lace, which although very simple to produce, is expensive to buy ready done. Fig. I is of this combination on Brussels net. In each scallop is a pearl about the size of a pea, surrounded with eight smaller ones; the stars are formed with six bugles, and bugles outline the 196 Fig. I. scallops. If .you wish the lace ' to be very deep, form the stars of three bugles threaded at once, instead of only one. A small pearl can also be put in the centre of the star. Repeat two or three times, accord- ing to the depth you in- tend the lace to be. Fig. 2 is an insertion with bugles. Fig. 3 is an edging worked also with bugles. The beads can be sewn on sepa- rately as in pattern, or five or six on one thread. All these can be pro- duced in black beads, and the pearls and white bugles can be worked on colourednet, either pink or ecru, both of which are most effec- FlG. 3. tive and uncommon. And now for successfully carrying out this charming lace. Trace out the pattern on thin paper or pink glazed lining, and tack the net over it, taking care not to work through the pattern. The best way to secure the beads firmly is by a backward stitch, and twisting the cotton over the squares of net between each bead Fine Mecklenburg thread is the best to use; it is so very strong that there is no fear of the beads becoming detached. The butterfly repre- sented in Fig. 4 is first cut out in stiff" white muslin, round glass beads are sewn on, with lines of long satin beads, four lines on each wing, with a pearl between each. The body is formed with wool, covered, and white beads twisted round. If black beads are used Fig. 4. the lines should be of bugles, with plain beads between, and the rest small I'ound beads. Wire should outline the wings if a large butterfly is made. Figs. 5 & 6. — The patterns for the front of a dress bodice and cuffs which we represent, can, with very little alteration, be reproduced for a panel or centre of the dress. The cufts could also be worked on tabs. The pattern is very simple, and can be produced on net or the material, therefore we have not represented it on the former. Each flower is formed by a pearl about the size of a pea, surrounded by small ones ; the outline is of bugles. A row of pearls (the larger ones) are placed round the neck, with leaves of bugles downwards. By turning the pattern upside down and making it straight at the bottom, with an outline of leaves, the front of the dress presents itself If worked on satin or velvet, the pattern should be traced out on thin paper and placed over the material, carefully tearing away the paper when the work is finished. Any lady who has copied the patterns given for bead work in an earlier number will find no difficulty in producing Figs. 7 and 8. The former can be done in coloured beads to represent a fuchsia, and is composed of four red petals, and four white inside ; the stamens are merely beads with a dark one at the end, threaded over wire. It can be copied from nature, and other colours substituted for the ones in specimen. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. The leaves of the flowers in Fig. 8 consist of beads ranged in 4 parallel rows, and united at each extre- mity. The length should vary a little, to avoid any monotony in the foliage. Thecalyx is fashioned after the style of the leaves, but with 7 short rows instead of 4 longer ones. For the pistil, 1 larger bead is threaded for the top, fol- lowed by 30 others strung on the doubled wire. The petals comprise a ring of about 50 beads, after which are threaded 30 beads to be attached between the 20th and 2 1st of the ring, and again 15 joined be- tween the 7th and 8th, next 30 beads, unite the foot. 14 of these petals are required, which are really a kind of outline, as can be seen in engraving. The calyx and leaves should be of round beads, and the petals of bugles, which give the flower a very bright appearance. To mouiit the flower, first place the 3 stamens, then 3 petals ; in the 2nd row arrange 4 petals, and on the 3rd 7 ; complete with the petals of the calyx. The lily is a very easy flower to form, and is very effective. Six erect stamens are formed with ^ -Of- crystal beads : light yellow t iGS. 5 & 6. gjjgg ^j.g £jj.gj strung for the tips, and united in a little bunch, the doubled wire being then utilised for the row of white beads. Milky white beads form the 6 petals, composed of rings attached at each end ; there are 5 of these rounds, the smallest containing about 100 beads. Fl& 7 Fig. 8. On the same principle are made the tapering leaves, with the change of graduating their green hue. To mount the blossom, join the stamens in a circle, and round them dispose the petals, giving them the graceful bend peculiar to the lily. Lower down arrange the leaves on long and short stalks, as taste dictates. Beads have quite a fascinating effect on children, and an intelligent little girl, with help from elders, could manage any of these flowers. The fuschia (Fig. 7), with a lily, and a few green leaves surrounding them, would make a charming bunch for a vase. Beaded bonnets, with the brims entirely of beads, are so fashion- able and pretty, that some of our readers may be tempted to make one, which can easily be done by following the directions. Buy a net shape, take off the brim, and cut the pattern of it out in paper ; form the shape with wire ; fasten off. Then join on another piece and thread about 12 bugles, twist it round the wire forming the brim, so that the beads are in a semicircle; continue thus till the end of your wire. For the 2nd row — turn your work and thread 12 more beads, and twist between the centre of the ist loop of the previous row ; you will then have 6 beads each side ; proceed in the same way for every row until you have filled up the space that shapes your brim, then sew large cut beads close toge- ther on the edge, or, better still, thread them on a piece of fine wire first. Should any of your first wire show, all you have to do is to thread some bugles and sew down over it. You now have your crown to consider. For that you will require some three-cornered flat ornaments, which are sold at the draper's for 2d. the row; one will be suiificient. 7 or 8 bugles must be threaded, and then one of the little fiat ornaments, then another 8 bugles, and so on, in rows, these cross the barsof beads to formsquares. For trimming, have a few loops of velvet and a spray of flowers, placed almost in the centre, or where most becoming to the face. Small feathers are also used in place of flowers, or loops of pink and black velvet, and a beaded ornament— leaves and a butterfly, for instance — has a very stylish appearance. These bonnets are ver)^ expensive to buy ready beaded, but any lady can succeed in producing one for little outlay by following these directions. A bonnet can also be produced in pearls and white bugles; in that case cream or white tips and lace would be required for trimming. Mrs. LEACH'S PRACTICAL FAMILY DRESSMAKER Is publiehed on the 26th day of every month, price Twopence, or Post Free for Sis ^lonths for Fifteen Stamps. THE CHILDREN'S DRESSMAKER Containing Mantles, Costumes, and Underclothing for Young Ladies and Children, is Sublished on the loth day of every month, price One Penny, or Post Free for Six lonths for Nine Stamps. Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, London. The Quarterly Edition of the Two Books, containing over loo Illostiatioiis, may be had ol any Home or Colonial Bookseller, price gd. 197 TiiE f ANCV WORit-BASKEt. Maerame Work. Contimud from No. 9. For Figs. 1 to 23, sie Nas. 8 and 9, THE CURL PATTERN, N0.24. A fringe suitable I for a learner, which could I be utilised for various pur- j poses — viz.,edglngforbook- shelves, Gipsy table fringe, toilet-cover bordering. It is made in the following way— Cut a piece of the thick foundation line 4 a yard longer than the work you wish to do, and put it very tightly round your board, as Fig. i indicates ; this done, cut a nuinber of strings of the twine or I thread you wish to use I yard long, and knot them on to foundation line with the raised knot, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6, You must I put on any numberof strings jdivisibleby I2,as thisis the I number required for each pattern. Take the 12 first and divide ; * hold the 1st string in the right hand, I slanting it as Fig. 7, and ' knot with the left hand each [ of the following 5 strings on to it twice. Again take the 1st in right hand and I knot the 5 on to it, making a second bar ; take care to draw all your strings tight and keep them close up to each other. Now hold the 12th in left hand, slanting it, and knot 5 on to it ; do a 2nd bar, and on the same leader knot the 6th to join the bars together ; then take the 2 first strings and make 3 single chain stitches, as Fig. 15; repeat 5 times, making 5 strands, 3 chain in each. Now you will require a fi.\ing pin ; put it through the centre of the 1st 3 chain to keep the pattern in its place, hold the 1st string in right hand and knot 5 on to it, again making the 4 slanting bars ^s at the beginning *. The twists require 4 strings, as Fig 23 ; there are 15 stitches in each twist ; the strings are then secured by I even knot ; cut the lengths all level, and repeat with each 12 strings all along. FiG. 25.— The St.\r is a simple and pretty fringe ; the strings are one yard long, and put on as Fig. 5. Divide the threads into 8 each, take the 8 first, hold the 1st in right hand and knot 3 on to it, do 3 bars, hold the 8th in left hand and knot 3 on to it, do 2 bars again, hold the 8th in left hand and knot 7 on to it, as shown in Fig. 9, and finish to match top, makmg a star, as Fig. 10, but of 8 strings, 4 to each leaf; do these stars all along. Now put on a foundation line very tightly, taking care to have all the strings under the foundation line, and knot each string on to it twice. The bottom part of fringe is all of double chain, 4 strijigs to each, as Fig. 16 ; do 5 stitches, take the next 4 strings and do 5 chain again ; now take the 4 centre strings, leaving 2 each side, and make a Solomon's knot, as Fig. 198 18, then divide, and with each 4 strings make 5 chain agaifl, and finish with a simple knot, 8 strings to each knot. Fio. 26.— The Cleopatra is a very pretty fringe, suit- able for small brackets, &c.; string 1 f yards long and put on as Fig. 5. It takes 8 threads to each pattern ; * hold the 7th in left hand, and with the 8th thread and right hand work 7 button- hole stitches as Fig. i7,then hold the 1st in right hand and knot the other 7 threads on to it, bringing it level with bottom of the 7 button- hole stitches ; do 3 bars ; hold the 2nd in right hand, and with the 1st in left hand work 7 buttonhole stitches, hold the 8th in left hand and knot the 7 on to it, bringing it level with the 7 buttonhole stitches ; do 3 bars and finish with the first 7 buttonhole stitches and 3 bars; this makes 9 bars and 21 buttonhole stitches. Take the next 8 threads and work a square as Fig. 13, then with the 4 centre threads make a Solomon's knot; then with the 2 at each side and the 4 in the centre, do 2 Solomon's knots ; again take the centre 4 and make i Solomon's knot ; then make another square, and finish with the 4 Solomon's knots, and repeat from* ; put on a foundation line as in Fig. 25. The bottom part of this fringe takes 4 threads to each twist, and is worked as Fig. 23. Take the 4 first threads and make a twist of 7 stitches ; repeat all along ; on the ne.xt row you leave 2 strings and take 2 from the next twist and work 7 stitches, leaving 2 threads at the end; on the 3rd row you use the 2 strings left and 2 of the ist twist of former row, and finish by knotting the threads 2 together 3 rows deep, and cut the ends evenly. PRETTY BADGE FOR SAILOR TUNIC. Take a piece of serge, 4 inches by 2 inches. Trace the outline of the crown, flags and stripes on tissue paper. The stripes should be ruled, as it is difficult to keep them straight in any other way. Tack the tissue paper on the serge, and trace the crown and stripes very neatly with deep red crewel wool. Then with the wool work the flag-staffs in crewel stitch. Cut out the flags in fine, dark blue ribbon, allowing about J inch for work ; turn in the edges neatly, and hem down with silk to match. Work round the edge of the flags in crewel stitch with the red wool. Then embroider the crown and stripes in red wool. Ordinary satin stitch looks best. Finish the little flags by taking a very coarse needle, and some No. 20 white crochet cotton, and making the white lines of«the Union Jack with it. One long stitch makes each line. At the same time have another needle with the red wool, and make a red line between the white lines. Then commence with the white cotton at one corner of the flag. Make a long stitch, a little to one side of the corner, diagonally across the flag. Now make a red line from corner to corner running parallel with the white line. Then make another white line on the other side of the red line. Make the short lines which run from top to bottom ofthe flag last. Place the badge on the left arm of the tunic about 4 inches from the shoulder seam on the back of the sleeve, about I inch from the centre ; turn in the edges, and stitch it round with the sewing machine. This badge will wash, but when the tunic is to be washed it is better to rip off the badge, take off the lines in the flags, and work them afresh. This makes the badge look like new. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. JAPANESE PALM-LEAF SCREENS. Thenewestwayof ornamenting Japanese screens so as still to keep them to their original use as fans or hand screens is with peacocks' feathers. Small eye feathers are chosen, and laid gracefully down one side of the fan, secured here and therewith a few small stitches. Lines of tinsel are now added, and for this purpose that sold in sixpenny balls is the best, as it is rough and irregular, and so catches the light better than the more evenly twisted kinds. This is laid on the fan in lines over the feathers, and follows as closely as pos- sible the radiating folds of the leaf of which the fan is made. The ends of the tinsel may be fastened at the extreme edge of the fan by a neat worker, and this will avoid lining it, which will be found necessary if they are carried over to the other side. Another way of managing the tinsel is to run it along at the edge until the next fold is reached ; thus breaking off is avoided altogether. All round the edge of the fan is worked a row of large heiring bone stitches in peacock blue crewel or knitting silk ; this forms a pretty finish. Peacock blue satin ribbon must be twisted round the handle, and a dainty bow and ends sewn on just below the fan itself. It must be borne in mind that in making a pair of these screens the pea- cocks' feathers must not be arranged down the same side of each fan, but down the right hand side of one, and the left hand side of its fellow. This is a slight matter in itself, but very important to the success of the screens. A hning of thin peacock blue silk may be added to the back of the fan or not, according to the appear- ance; if the stitches have an untidy look, it will thus be easily remedied. We have seen very effective screens arranged in a similar manner, but with flowers, leaves or birds cutout of cretonne instead of the peacocks' feathers. They are arranged on the screen in just the same way before the tinsel is laid over. Another very effective and elegant way of ornamenting palm leaf screens is to cover the front carefully and smoothly with a plush dull and subdued in toneof colour. Another way of trimming them up is to cut out in cardboard two figures — say, for the sake of example, a quaintly dressed lady and gentleman dancing a minuet, or of a foreign man and woman in their national dress. There are many pictures and coloured plates which will serve as models for these. The figures have next to be dressed to imitate the representation. The ladies' skirts are formed of coloured satin pleated where necessary, the gentlemen's coats, waistcoats and breeches, stockings, &c., are also imitated by a thin coloured material laid over wadding where a raised appearance is necessary. The faces are the most troublesome parts to carry out successfully. By rights they should be painted on satin carefully stretched over the card, but it is not everybody who possesses the useful talent of painting on satin ; failing this a delicately drawn woodcut tinted up will answer well enough ; cotton wool combed out will do for the hair. All sorts of little odds and ends of ribbon, tiny beads, wee flowers and all kinds of etceteras will suggest them- selves as pretty accessories to the work. Those who are fond of dressing dolls will see much resemblance to doll dressing in cover- ing these cardboard figures, but the main difference, of course, is that these dolls are dressed on one side only. All the raw edges are brought over to the wrong side of the card and fastened off there, with threads drawn across. When they are well dressed and finished off, they must be secured to the fans with a {ev,- small stitches, and finally the other side of the fan must be lined with silk to match the plush in colour. A draper)' of two scarfs of silk may be twisted round the edge of the screen if liked, and ribbon of the same colour tied round the handle and finished off with a bow and ends. BOOT OR SHOE BAGS. There are few travellers who have not expe- rienced the diffi- culty of packing their boots and shoes in a satis- factory manner amongst their other wearing apparel, as often heels will come through paper and be verj' unmanageable. By following the directions given below these difficulties may be overcome. For one pair of boot or shoe bags, half a yard of fine linen 30 inches wide, the kind that is generally used for glass cloths, with a check of double red lines — the white check in centre of the red lines should be one inch and a quarter square — a few threads of red ingrain cotton, fine crewel wool or washing silk the same colour as the lines on the linen, a red button and some white sewing cotton will be required. Our model when hemmed was 6J inches wide. A larger bag can be made if wished, but when cutting the linen be careful to have the checks quite straight in the centre, so that the sides may be the same. The width of the hnen makes the length of the bag. Hem the two sides of the linen and fold up 12 inches to form the bag part, leaving the remaining 6 inches for the flap ; hem across the flap on the right side, so that the red band which is generally down the side of the linen may be seen when the bag is buttoned ; make a button-hole in the centre of the flap, cutting it along the hem. Take a shilling and place it exactly in the centre of the white squares, and run a lead pencil lightly round it, and work the circle thus formed with red (of whatever material is chosen) in either stem stitch or chain stitch ; then form a wheel by putting the thread at regular dis- tances across the circle eight times ; then work a good sized dot in the centre of the circle, taking care to catch the threads so as to keep them straight. This is similar to the Spider Web Lace Stitch described on page 207. 6 of these wheels on the bag and 4 on the flap will be enough, placing those on the bag below where the bag is buttoned ; sew up the sides of the bag and sew on the button, and the bag is finished. Of course any colour can be selected, or any design. With plain linen, a boot or shoe outlined, or the initials of the owner, would be suitable. USEFUL PATCHWORK. This work has many recommendations, as it costs little and is both pleasant and useful. Elderly ladies will like it, as it does not require much sight or skill. Our model is a quilt, suitable for a present for the poor, made of pieces of cloth of different colours. If you can obtain patterns of cloth (such as tailors keep in books to show their customers) much trouble is saved, as your pieces will then be ready cut. The length of the pieces may var>', but the width in each strip should be the same. Take two pieces of cloth and join the ends together, having the seam on the right side. Turn down the edges of the seam as if for hemming, and with a pretty bright shade of fingering wool work a row of herring-bone or feather stitch. As the cloths are generally of a dull colour the wool should be some rich bright crimson. Join pieces together in this way till you have a strip of about 2^ yards in length. :Make another strip the same length and join the two strips together in the same way. Go on till your quilt is square. It must now be bound, and you can either do this with braid to match the wool, or you can make a binding of pieces of cashmere of different colours. Cut the cashmere in strips of about li inches wide, and join them together. When you have a length of about loj yards, bind the quilt. If you wish to make it ver)' dainty, you can work a small spray in crewel Avork on everj- alternate piece of cloth. Green, blue, gold, and crimson look well, and help to enliven the sombre cloths. No lining will be required, as the seams are all on the right side under the herring-bone stitch. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. HAIRPIN LACE. Materials — Clarke's crochet cotton, No. 30, a fine steel hook, and a very large hairpin, or a special article made for the purpose, called a krotchee fork. First, you must make the hairpin braid. To commence, hold the hairpin or krotchee in the left hand, the round part upwards. Now make a loop on the crochet hook and twist the cotton round the left prong, drawing it through the loop on the hook from the centre of the hairpin, take the hook cut and turn the hairpin or krotchee, which brings * the cotton to the front, put it over the right-hand prong to the back, put the crochet hook into the loop from which you have just taken it, and draw the cotton through, which makes a fresh loop on your needle, then do a double crochet, which secures the loop, and forms a firm centre to the work. Take out the hook and turn the hairpin, then repeat from *. When the fork is filled slip off the work to within two or three loops. The beauty of hairpin work consists in its firm centre and even loops. You will require two pieces of this braid, one for the heading the length wished, and the other for the scallop, a great deal longer. To make the lace, fasten the cotton into first loop of top piece, then with the crochet hook take up 3 more loops with a slip stitch into each, 3 chain, take up 3 loops from bottom piece ; 3 chain, take 3 next loops from top piece, 3 chain, 3 next loops from bottom, 3 chain, 3 loops from top, 3 chain, 3 loops from bottom, 3 chain, 3 loops from top, 3 chain, 3 loops from bottom, 3 chain, 20 loops from bottom. Put your hook in the first of the 20, and draw the first and last together. 3 chain, pick up the next 3 loops from bottom piece, 3 chain, join into 3 chain that you made before picking up the last 3 loop; that came before you picked up the 20, 3 chain and repeat from beginning of row. This forms one scallop. For the other side of the scallop braid, fasten on as be- fore, * take up 9 loops, 3 chain, pick up 2 loops, ** 9 chain, put hook into 6 from needle to form a purl, 3 chain, take up 2 loops, and re- peat from ** till you have 7 purls; 3 chain, take up 14 loops, put hook into first of the 14 and draw first and last together, 3 chain, take up 2 loops, 3 chain, put hook in 7th, purl and draw cotton through, 3 chain, take up 2 loops, and repeat from *. For the heading, i chain, slip stitch into every loop. ANGLO-INDIAN EMBROIDERY. The so-called Anglo-Indian embroidery, in spite of the time and trouble required to carry it out satisfactorily, is likely to remain popular for a long time hence, and a few directions for working it may not prove unacceptable. The best material for a founda- tion, and also the cheapest, is a common cotton bandanna hand- kerchief, such as country farmers use as neck wrappers. These are not to be had, as a rule, in the neighbourhood of London, those in our suburban shops having artistic patterns of lilies or roses on them instead of old-fashioned geometric designs or Indian shawl patterns. Many ladies prefer to buy small cashmere shawls, such as those worn by foreign fishwives over their shoulders. These have the disadvantage of being far more costly than the pocket- handkerchiefs, but, on the other hand, they require no lining, as they are firm enough to support the work without it. The pocket- handkerchief requires a firm but soft lining. We have found a zephyr print very suitable for this, as also is a thin, very soft unbleached calico. Take care to choose a handkerchief with a good bold design (the colour is not of the slightest importance, as it will be entirely covered with work) and very little plain foundation. By this, we mean that it is better to have a full pattern which well covers the handkerchief; let the border also be bold and well defined, as even if you do not intend to work it at the same time as the middle part, it can be cut off and used afterwards as a bell-pull or border to a bracket. Now to set to work — Lay the lining flat on the table without a single crease, lay the handkerchief on this also quite smoothly, and secure the two together at the edge of the 200 handkerchief with tacking threads. Then for the embroidery itself The object is to cover the handkerchief entirely with different stitches worked in silks and wools of colours and shades of colour as oriental in appearance as possible. All kinds of fancy stitches may be utilised — coral, feather, chain, herring-bone, &c. — down the straight lines of the pattern. Satin stitch, button-hole, crewel, tapestry stitches and French knots of various sizes and shapes for filling up the larger portions of the design. French knots may be also used as grounding if preferred, and in some instances we have seen the whole work done in these knots, but as a whole it gives too much of the appearance of a carpet. Finally, the outlines of the pattern must all be traced out with tinsel, sewn on with fine black cotton. That sold in balls, consisting of tinsel mixed with a colour, is the prettiest and bright- est to use, but the Japanese tinsel has the advantage of not tarnish- ing quite so readily. This, to be effective, requires massing, as it is when used by the Japanese on their screens and embroideries. Small gold beads may also be used with advantage, but, of course, this greatly depends upon the pattern. Care must be taken to keep the groundwork of the handkerchief subdued in colour, the pattern standing out in relief Wool and silk may be used judi- ciously, silk being more especially used for the prominent parts of the work. Guard against puckering the handkerchief Almost any colour may be worked in, but we warn intending workers to avoid the various shades of violet, which so often clash with the blues and greens. The work may be turned to account as brackets, cushion covers, bell-pulls, table mats, work bags, covers for work-baskets, &c. Some people introduce scraps of black or coloured velvet, satin, silk, or plush into the work. The velvet is cut into the shape of the portion of the pattern to be thus covered, laid on it quite flat, and button-holed round closely with silk. This is rich in its effect, but rather spoils the Eastern or Anglo-Indian appearance of the work.. A FEW HINTS ON UTILISING CHRISTMAS CARDS. An excellent and useful idea, if you have some large handsome Christmas cards, is to make a pretty blotting-book of them ; this forms a nice present for any one, according to the style in which you finish it. Choose two of your best cards — a pretty view or group of flowers looks best — and cut two pieces of cardboard about two inches larger every way than the cards, or bigger still, according to the size you wish your case. Next select a piece of any bright material suitable to line the case. Satin, of course, looks most handsome, but you will find more serviceable, and almost equally effective, a piece of smart cretonne or any material flowered all over. Put the lining flat on the table, right side downwards, and lay the two pieces of cardboard on it, leaving about half an inch space between them. Cut the lining large enough to turn right over the cardboards, leaving the space in the centre where the Christmas cards are to come. Secure the edges neatly to the boards with gum or strong paste, and gum a strip of the material straight down the back — that is, the half-inch space between the boards. Take care to turn the edges in neatly at the corners. If the material is at all thick, you must cut away a little underneath. When this is all properly done, gum the Christmas cards neatly over the blank spaces left for them, putting weights on to make them keep flat in their places. Add strings of ribbon in colour to match the lining, and a ribbon through the case, arranged in a bow at the back. Needle-books are also e.xtremely pretty made in a very similar manner, but you should have the Christmas cards almost the same size as the backs, and put a lining of a handsome piece of silk or satin, with ribbon stitched inside to hold the packets of needles, i or 2 leaves of flan- nel, with the edges pinked prettily, and narrow ribbon with a bow at the back, and to tie the case together. For a child, a good use for Christmas cards is to make a folding album, thus using up 12, 18 or 24, according to the size desired, and in this way you can at the same time utilise your old postcards. For an album composed of 18 cards, take a piece of bright red glazed calico, the length of 9 postcards laid out one just beyond the other, either longways or shortways, according to the shape of the Christmas cards you intend to use. Place the two centre postcards a little farther apart than the others, and cut the lining wide enough to fold over, com- pletely covering the post cards each side. The edges must be neatly gummed down, and the ends folded well over, and fastened firmly. The Christmas cards are then to be laid on to the red calico each side, and ribbons attached at suitable places, to tie the whole together when folded up. These albums, when nicely done, often sell very well at bazaars, and also the making of them is a very good occupation for children on holidays, wet days, or when inva- lided. Splash-backs, fireplace orpaments, cupboards and tables decorated with Christmas cards, are all too well known to need lengthened description ; but hand-screens and work-bags thus THE FANCY WORK-BASKET adorned are, perhaps, a little more uncommon. For a hand-screen cut a round or oval in stout cardboard the size desired, and first bind the edge all round with gold paper, or narrow ribbon. Put a good large card in the centre, or two or three smaller ones, prettily arran- ged, and fill up the whole of the spaces left close up to the binding with tiny cards and the pretty little embossed scraps to be bought in sheets. The whole of the screen both sides is to be completely covered in this way, or, if preferred, it can be covered first with gold paper and then the scraps can be placed farther apart to let the gold paper show as a background. Add handles of black and gold, and a smart bow of ribbon. If you have any ot the Christmas cards now so beautifully printed on satin, you can make very hand- some work-bags, cushions, sachets, glove-cases, &c., by taking the satin design off the card and applying it on to plush, velvet, or satin, which you then make up into the article desired. Tack the satin design on to the proper place, keeping it exactly even and flat, and then to hide the edges and to form a pretty border, work a close row of feather stitching all round with thick gold silk, or any colour preferred. Or, instead of the feather stitching, you may fasten the design on with a narrow velvet, or one of the pretty fancy ribbons; those with gold ground and flowered all over look extremely handsome, the work-bag or other article thus ornamented being also trimmed and tied with the same. Specimens of any of these articles can be had on application through the Editor. WORK CASE. This useful little work case is made of holland bound with scarlet braid, but if wished to be made especially pretty, a back may be added of American cloth, or, better still, of morocco leather, and silk and ribbon may be substituted for the holland and braid. The materials required to make it are 3 yards of braid, a tiny piece of coloured flannel and 6j inches of material that is 31 inches wide or double quantity of narrower material. If it is to have a leather back, a piece of nice soft leather iij by 6i inches will be neces- sary. Cut a piece of .holland 23 inches in length and 6§ inches in width, and a second piece 34 inches in length and 6i in width. Round the corners at one end of the larger piece, and bind the straight end with braid; to form the larger of the two pockets, fold it so as to make it iij inches in length. Take a slight curve out of the length of the smaller piece at one side and bind it across the curve, place the straight side of it along the crease where the long piece is folded, and tack it to keep it steady. Cut 2 pieces of flannel, one of them 44 inches by 2i inches, the other one a degree smaller, nick them round the edges and sew them on to the upper half of the linen, laying them across the case exactly' in the centre. Cut two semicircles of holland, bind them round the curved s'.de and place them at each side of the needle book as flaps to it. Now bind the case all round, at the same time securing the flaps and smaller pocket. Sew on a small strap to hold a pair of scissors be- tween the needle book and pocket, and to complete all sew strings underneath the edge at the rounded edge of the case. FIRE GRATE ORNAMENTAL SCREEN, Netted. However much we may appreciate that truly life-like thing, a fire, whose cheery blaze draws the family circle together into social converse, or renders less lonely the solitude of single life, still, there comes a season when its cheerful companionship must be dispensed with. The bright sunshine may be streaming in through our open windows ; yet what can look more dreary and comfortless than an empty grate? and there are few ladies, who, at one time or other, have not been perplexed to devise some ornament wherewith to decorate the vacant fireplace. The following novel design has the several recommendations of being elegant, inexpensive and durable. JVIaterials required : — 2 me5hes are used, one a ////« flat one sths of an inch wide ; for the 2nd mesh, which is much smaller, a wooden or bone knitting needle No. 5 answers the purpoje ; 6 ounces of Strutts' best 3 thread knitting cotton No. 12, and a strong steel netting needle. Fill the needle with the cotton and cast on (with the large mesh) 240 stitches ; net backwards and forwards in plain net- ting with the large mesh for 60 rows. Now, for edge at bottom — work I row, putting the cotton tu-ice round the mesh (still the large one), and work 4 of these long stitches into every loop of the last row. 62nd row — now take the smaller mesh and with it work a stitch into every loop of the last row ; repeat the 62nd row twice more, which finishes the netting. This size suits for any ordinary grate ; of course, it can be made longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing the number of rows in the plain pait of the netting if required. The work must now be washed, and made up very stiff with thick starch. It is not ironed, but, when nearly dr)-, it is well pulled out with the fingers, and stretched, taking particular care to pull out every loop of the edge, so as to show the pattern. When quite dry, fold the netting in half so that the ends come together and meet in the centre ; join these ends by lacing the loops together with a piece of the same cotton as it was worked with. The work now lies double. Run a piece of narrow tape through the double loops at the top, that is, through the cast-en stitches at the commencement of the work ; draw the tape tightly and tie firmly. 2i yards of glazed caUco, v/hatever colour may be preferred, that will suit the furniture of the room, will now be required, also 2 pieces of round stick or cane a little longer than the register of the grate is wide. Tie the netting to the centre of one of the pieces of stick. Cut the calico into half and join tie two pieces by running the selvedges together. Hem the ends, leaving the hem at the top wide enough for the 2nd piece of the stick to run through easily. Put the stick into this hem, drawing the ful- ness to the width of the register, leaving the stick projecting at each end. Put the stick and calico into the grate at top of the register, so that the calico fills all the open space, and falls over the grate down to the hearthstone. Put the netting, with the stick attached to it, into the grate over the calico ; close the register and spread out the netting so as to cover the entire grate, extending out to the edge of the fender. No idea of the eflfect and elegance of this design can be formed until the work is stiffened and mounted If the grate is covered whilst the room is being swept, this fire screen will last fresh for a whole season. It should be washed, but not stiffened, before it is put away for the winter, and will last for several years. Making this fire screen will be found pleasant work ; the cotton being soft it will not hurt the fingers, as netting with twine is apt to do. It is also a convenient piece of work to have on hand, as requiring little light, sight, or attention, it can be taken up at any time. Knittinff. COLLAR, WITH DEEP SCALLOPS. Materials required ; — I skein of loom thread No. 3i. and 2 steel knitting needles No. 17. Cast on 50 stitches, ist ro\y — slip a stitch, knit 1 plain, make 2 stitches i,by putting thread twice round the needle), knit 3 together thus : slip a stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together — knit thus when directed to knit 3 together ; knit i plain, make a stitch (by putting the thread once round the needle), knit 2 together, knit 1 1 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 3 plain, make 1,2 together, make 2, 2 together, knit 12 plain, make 2,2 together, make 2, 3 together, make 2, 2 together. 2nd row— knit 2 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. plain, purl i stitch (these last 2 stitches are knitted where the make 2 stitches of last row are), knit 2 plain, purl 1, knit 2 plain, purl i, 14 plain, purl i, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, knit 20 plain, make i, 2 together, i plain, purl i, 2 plain. 3rd row— slip I stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 10 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make I, 2 together, make i, 4 plain, make i, 2 together, 24 plain. 4th row — 26 stitches plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make I, 2 together, 4 plain. Jlh row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 9 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, 14 plain, * make 2 stitches, knit 2 together ; repeat from * twice more. 6th row — * knit 2 stitches plain, purl i, repeat from * twice more, 16 plain, purl i, 2 plain, purl i, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 7th row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 8 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 6 plain, make i, 2 together, 29 plain. 8th row — knit 31 stitches plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make I, 2 together, 4 plain. 9th row — slip i stitch, i plain, make 2, 3 together, 1 plain, make i, 2 together, 7 plain, * 2 together, make i, repeat from * twice more, 7 plain, make i, 2 together, * make 2, 2 together, repeat from * twice more, 17 plain, * make 2 stitches, 2 together, repeat from * twice more. loth row—* 2 plain, i purl, repeat from * twice more, 19 plain, * i purl, 2 plain, repeat from * twice more, make I, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, I plain, I purl, 2 plain, nth row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make 1,2 together, 6 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 8 plain, make i, 2 together, 35 plain. 12th row— knit 37 stitches plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 13th row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 5 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make I, 2 together, make i, 9 plain, make i, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, * make 2, 3 together, repeat from * 10 times more. 14th row — * 2 plain, i purl, repeat from * II times more, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 15 th row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 10 plain, make i, 2 together, 36 plain. i6th row — 38 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 17th row — slip I stitch, i plain, make 2, 3 together, i plain, make i, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make 1, 1 1 plain, make i, 2 together, * make 2, 3 together, repeat from* 11 times more. i8th row — * 2 plain, I purl, repeat from ■* 1 1 times more, 2 plain, make 1,2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, i plain, i purl, 2 plain. 19th row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 2 plain, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 12 plain, make i, 2 togethor, 36 plain. 20th row — 38 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make I, 2 together, 4 plain. 2 1st row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make 1, 2 together, i plain, 2 together, make I, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 13 plain, make i, 2 together, * make 2, 3 together, repeat from * 11 times more. 22nd row — * 2 plain, i purl, repeat from * 1 1 times more, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 23rd row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make 1,14 plain, make i, 2 together, 36 plain. 24th row— cast off 16 stitches, 22 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 25th row — slip I stitch, I plain, make 2, 3 together, i plain, make i, 2 together, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 tog"ether, make i, 2 together, 12 plain, make i, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, 12 plain, * make 2, 2 together, repeat from * twice more. 26th row — * 2 plain, I purl, repeat from * twice more, 14 plain, i purl, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, i plain, I purl, 2 plain. 27th row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 3 plain, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 1 1 plain, make i, 2 together, 24 plain. 28th row — 26 plain, make I, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 29th row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain, make 1,2 together, make 1, 2 together, make 1,2 together, 10 plain, make i, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, 14 plain, * make 2, 2 together, repeat * from twice more. 30th row — * 2 plain, I purl, repeat from * twice more, 16 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 31st row — slip i stitch, S plain, make l, 2 together, 5 plain, make 1,2 together, make I, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 9 plain, make i, 2 together, 29 plain. 32nd row — 31 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 33rd row — slip i stitch, i plain, make 2, 3 together, i plain, make i, 2 together, 6 plain, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 8 plain, make i, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, make 2,2 together, make 2, 2 together, 17 plain, * make 2, 2 together, repeat from * twice more. 34th row — * 2 plain, I purl, repeat from * twice more, 19 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, i plain, i purl, 2 plain. 35th row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, 202 make i, 2 together, 7 plain, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 7 plain, make i, 2 together, 35 plain. 36th row — 37 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 37th row — slip I stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 8 plain, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 6 plain, make i, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, * make 2, 3 together, repeat from * 10 times more. 38th row — * 2 plain, i purl, repeat from * 1 1 times more, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 39th row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 6 plain, m.ake i, 2 together, make 1, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 36 plain. 40th row — 38 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 41st row — slip i stitch, I plain, make 2, 3 together, i plain, make i, 2 together, 10 plain, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 4 plain, make i, 2 together, * make 2, 3 together, repeat from * 11 times more. 42nd row — * 2 plain, i purl, repeat from * 1 1 times, more, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, i plain, I purl, 2 plain. 43rd row — slip i stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 11 plain, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 3 plain, make i, 2 together, 36 plain. 44th row — 38 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 45th row — slip I stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, I2 plain, make I, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, 2 plain, make I, 2 together, * make 2, 3 together, repeat from * 1 1 times more. 46th row — * 2 plain, I purl, repeat from * 1 1 times more, 2 plain, make i, 2 together, 20 plain, make i, 2 together, 4 plain. 47th row — slip I stitch, 5 plain, make i, 2 together, 13 plain, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, i plain, make i, 2 together, 36 plain. 48th row — cast off 16 stitches ; 22 plain, make I, 2 together, 20 plain, make I, 2 together, 4 plain. Repeat from 1st row 8 times more, then, to make both ends of the collar the same, work as follows : Cast off 26 stitches, and on remaining stitches work thus : ist row of end of collar — 2 plain, make i, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, 12 plain, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together. 2nd row— 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, I purl, 2 plain, i purl, 14 plain, make i, 2 together. 3rd row — cast off I stitch, mr.ke i, 2 together, 24 plain. 4th row — 26 plain. 5th row — cast off i stitch, i plain, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, 14 plain, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together. 6th row— 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 16 plain, 1 purl, 2 plain, I purl, 2 plain. 7th row — cast off I stitch, 29 plain, 8th row — 30 plain. 9th row — cast off i stitch, i plain, make. 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, 17 plain, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together, make 2, 2 together. loth row — 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, 1 purl, 2 plain, I purl, 19 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain. 11 tn row — cast off i stitch, 32 plain. 12th row — 33 plain. 13th row — cast off I stitch, i plain, * make 2, 3 together, repeat from * 9 times more. 14th row — * 2 plain, I purl, repeat from * 9 times more, 2 plain. 15th row — cast off i stitch, 30 plain. i6th row — 31 plain. 17th row — cast off I stitch, 2 plain, * make 2, 3 together, repeat from * 8 times more. 18th row — * 2 plain, i purl, repeat from * 8 times more, 3 plain. 19th row — cast off I stitch, 28 plain. 20th row — 29 plain. 21st row — cast off i stitch,* make 2, 3 together, repeat from* 8 times more. 22nd row — * 2 plain, I purl, repeat from * 8 times more, I plain. 23rd row — cast off I stitch, 26 plain. 24th row — cast off all the stitches on the needle, and fasten off the thread securely and neatly by threading a sewing needle with it, and working a few stitches through the end of the collar. For the string, with same sized needles and thread — cast on 6 stitches, and knit 1st row plain. 2nd row — put thread round needle to make a stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit 4 stitches plain. Repeat as 2nd row till the string is the length required — about i yard ; cast off. Make 2 tassels, and, when finished, sew one to each end of the string, after it has been put through the holes at the neck. 1 he loom thread can be had from A. E. K., Box 10, Post Office, Ballymena, price 6d. per skein, post free. JACKET IN LATTICE PATTERN, i TO 2 YEARS. This little article is quite a novelty in knitted jackets, and is extremely pretty, elastic and warm. The materials require are 2^ ozs. of white Berhn fingering wool, a little more that J an oz. of pink, 2 bone needles No. 13, and i No. 2, Walker's Bell gauge. Com- mence with the front, which is worked all in one piece, cast on 60 stitches in pink wool, knit 2 and purl 2 for 12 rows, join on white and commence the pattern, ist row — plain. 2nd row — purl with the No. 2 pin. 3rd row — slip the 4th stitch from end of row over the last 3, retain it on the right hand needle, and slip the 2 next in the same manner, keeping all three on the right hand needle. You thus have a cross bar. Now slip the 3 stitches off the right needle back again to the left, but in froni of the stitches upon it, to pre- serve the cross bar, then with the other pin, knit the 6 stitches off one by one in the ordinary way. Repeat this with every 6 stitches THE FANCY WORK-BASKET to the end of row, you will have lo patterns. 4th row — purl. 5th row — plain ; repeat from the 2nd row till you have 9 patterns deep. This pattern is, perhaps, a little difficult to acquire, so we should advise our readers to practise straight bits of work before attempt- ing a garment, until thoroughly conversant with it ; it should be worked loosely. For the shoulder, ist row of loth pattern— the same as the rest. 2nd row — knit 18 stitches, crossing as usual, slip the remaining: 42 stitches on the No. 2 needle or a piece of wool, go on working as usual on the 18 stitches till you have done 5 more patterns or 14 altogether, counting from the ist row ; now cast on 18 more stitches for left back, but put the wool forward, and insert the needle as for purling, so as to bring the casting on right side outwards. You have nov/ 36 stitches. Now purl back with the No. 2 needle, and work as before for 10 more rows or 24 patterns altogether, counting from bottom of front ; join on the pink wool and purl back ; knit 2 and purl 2 for 12 rows, and cast off. You thus have the whole of front and the left back worked. Now leave 24 stitches of the 42 still un worked on the No. 2 needle, pick up the remaining 18 on the 13 needle, and knit for 5 patterns for right shoulder, cast on 18 stitches for right back, and knit g more patterns as for left back ; finish with the ribbing and cast off ; now pick up 18 stitches at the neck of the left back beginning at the shoulder, picking up on the wrong side as for purling, knit back and go on picking up 12 stitches across the shoulders, 24 across front of neck that were on No. 2 needle, and 18 of right back ; you should have 82 stitches on your needle. This forms the ist row of neck. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — purl with No. 2 needle. 5th row — knitted with No. 13 needle, crossing the stitches as before. Now join on the pink wool and purl a row, knit 2 and purl 2 for 10 rows, and cast off. Sew up under the arm with white wool, leaving a place for sleeves. For the sleeves pick up 42 stitches round the armhole and work 9 patterns like the jacket, join on the pink and purl a rovi', knit 2 and purl 2 for 10 rows. Cast off. Do the other sleeve the same ; sew the sleeves up. It is easier to knit the sleeves separately and sew them up, but not so neat. It is neater still to knit them in the round if you have enough needles the same size and pointed at both ends. Now make 2 pieces of chain three-quarters of a yard long, run in neck and waist, 2 pieces of quarter yard to sew in middle of back, make 6 little tassels and sew on each end, and the jacket is complete. RIDGE PATTERN. Cast on with two coloured wools (say red and white) 12 stitches. 1st row — with * the red wool knit 6 stitches, passing the wool twice over the needle before bringing it through each stitch; knit the rest quite plain. 2nd row — pass the stitches along to the other end of the needle, and with the white wool knit 6 plain stitches, always knitting the double stitches as i stitch, knit the rest plain, but pass the wool twice over the needle before bringing it through. 3rd row— with the red wool knit 6 plain stitches,_always knitting the double stitches as i stitch, then knit the rest plain, passing the wool twice over the needle. 4th row— pass the stitches to the other end of the needle, and with the white wool knit 6 stitches, passing the wool twice over the needle ; knit the rest plain. Repeat from *. VIENNOISE Pi^TTERN. - " Cast oa stitches, al- io w i n g 9 stitches for each pat- tern and 4 stitches ex- tra for each edge. 1st row— *make I, knit 5, knit 2 to- gether, pass the cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 to- gether; re- peat from * 2nd row — purl: the stitches that were passed twice over the needle tobeknitted only as i stitch. 3rd row — * knit I, make l, knit 4, Knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together; repeat from *. 4th row— purled as before. 5th row — * knit 3, make i, knit 3, knit 3 together, pass the cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together, and repeat from *. 6th row — purled as before. 7th row — * knit 3, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together, and repeat from *. 8th row— purled as before. 9th row — * knit 4, make i, knit l, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice over the needle, knit 3 together and repeat from *. loth row — purled as before, nth row — * knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together, and repeat from *. 1 2th row — purl. Repeat from ist row. DIAMOND WITH OPEN TRELLIS. Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern, ist row— knit i, make I, knit 2 together at the back, make I, knit 2 together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I ; repeat. 2nd row — all purl. 3rd row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together at the back, make i, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, and repeat. 4th row — all purl. 5th row — knit 3, make i, knit 2 together at the back, make i, knit 2 together at the back, knit I, knit 2 together, make l, knit 2 together, make i, laiit 2, and repeat. 6th row— all purl. 7th row — knit 4, make i, knit 2 together at the back, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, and repeat. 8th row — all purl. 9th row — knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together at the back, make i, knit 2 together at the back, knit 2, 203 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. and repeat. loth row — all purl, nth row — knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together at the back, make i, knit 2 together at the back, knit i, and repeat. I2th row — all purl. 13th row — knit 1, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together at the back, make i, knit 2 together at the back, and repeat. 14th row— all purl. 15th row — knit 3 together, * make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 7, make i, knit 2 together at the back, make i, knit 3 together, and repeat from *. At the end of the last pattern in this row there will be only I stitch to knit instead of 3 together. i6th row — all purl. Now return to ist row. INFANT'S GAITER, FOR 18 Months. Materials required : — 4 steel needles, No. 13 bell gauge, and 2 oz. of Berlin wool, any colour preferred. Cast on 72 stitches on 3 needles, 24 on each. Now take the 4th needle, and knit 2 and purl 2 every row for 2j inches, then 2 rows plain, keeping i stitch for the seam, which you purl every time. 3rd row — 2 plain, i purl, do these last 3 rows 27 times, or for 54 inches, finishing with 2 plain rows, then 2 rows purl. Now 3 rows plain, decreasing 2 in the ist row, I each side of seam stitch ; next 3 rows 3 plain and 3 purl alternately. Repeat these 6 rows 9 times, decreasing twice more in the same man- ner as before in the 5th and loth rows ; finish with 3 plain rows. Then take 28 stitches on the back needle, keeping the seam stitch in the middle, and cast off these stitches; slip the remaining stitches on to one needle, and continue working same pattern for 15 rows, decreasing i at the end of every row for 9 rows. Then decrease i at the beginning and end of every row for the last 6 ; you will then have 17 stitches on your needle; now cast off, and work a crochet edge round bottom, i chain and I single in every stitch. Sew on a leather strap for under the foot. VEST FOR THREE YEARS. --^^—^ This vest is so easilymadethat a novice will find it quite simple. 3 skeins of me- rino or Shetland woo! and 2 wooden knitting needles about No. 8 will be required. Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 and purl 3 for 10 rows ; knit 100 rows backwards and forwards like a garter. For shoulder — *knit 16 stitches, turn and knit back, turn and repeat from * till you have 16 rows ; now slip these stitches on a spare needle and leave them till you commence the second half of vest; break off the wool, leaving a few inches ; cast off 32 stitches, commencing at stitch next the shoulder already knitted; leave 16 stitches for the 2nd shoulder, knit it to match the 1st. When at the end of 15th row (i.e. at the end of the needle next the centre of the vest), cast on 32 stitches, knit the stitches left on spare needle, joining the end of wool left when breaking it off, by knitting it with the other wool ; you should now have 60 stitches on your needle; knit second half of vest to match the ist, finishing with 10 rows of ribbing ; cast off. When casting on or off, do so as loosely as possible. Many people use needles a size coarser, and tight knitters will find it a good plan. For sleeve — cast on 45 stitches, knit backwards and forwards till you have 12 rows ; cast off 12 stitches. You should now have 33 on the needle; knit 3 and purl 3 for 8 rows ; cast off. Knit another sleeve the same. Sew the ribbed part of the sleeve together, and sew the 12 stitches you cast off to the plain part ; this forms a 204 gusset. Sew the sleeves into the vest, taking care to put the middle of the sleeve to the middle of the shoulder, having the gusset down ; sew the sides of vest together. For neck — with a coarse wooden or bone crochet needle work 2 trebles into the 2 middle stitches of one side of vest; * 2 chain, miss 2 stitches of the knitting, 2 treble; repeat from * all round. See that the crochet is as loose as the knitting. 2nd row — i single into 1st treble, * i double into next chain, i chain, I treble into next chain, i chain, i treble into same chain as last, 3 times more ; repeat from * all round ; fasten off. For string — 3 chain, 2 treble into ist chain stitch; * turn your work; 2 trebles into last 3 chain ; repeat from * till you have a string of about 30 inches ; fasten off and run the string through the holes in 1st row of neck. This vest is suitable for summer wear. A winter one can be made by using fingering wool instead of merino or Shetland. THE CREEVE SEESAW CAP. Woollen caps are so useful both for boys and girls, and some of them so pretty, that mothers, we are sure, will be glad of the directions for a new shape, and one very easily knit- ted. Our model was crimson, but any colour can be used, or, if preferred, two colours, or two shades of the same colour, one for the crown, and the other for the band of the same cap. This stylishand new shaped cap is very simply made, if the directions are exactly followed. Materials required: — 2 oz. of best 3-ply fingering jlj wool, and 2 steel knit- ting needles No. ii. For the crown, cast on J/"' ■////^ 70 stitches, and knit 1st row plain ; 2nd row — purl ; repeat these 2 rows till there are 1 52 rows knitted, then cast off. For the band. On the same needles, and using the wool double, cast on 23 stitches, and knit. 1st row— plain. 2nd row — 4 plain stitches, 3 purl, 3 plain, 3 purl, 3 plain, 3 purl, 4 plain. Repeat these two rows till the band is long enough to go round the child's head. Our model measured 21 inches, and had 224 rows. To make up the cap, double the crown in half, and sew up both sides on the wrong side of the work, when it should have the appearance of a square bag. The bottom of the bag is the top of the crown of the cap. Turn it right side out, and stretch it into shape by pulling the top corners till it measures 16 inches across. Then pin it firmly on an ironing board without stretching the bottom part, place a wet cloth over the knitting, and with a hot iron, iron it, when it will retain the shape. Take out the pins when it is quite dry. Iron the band of the cap on the wrong side of the knitting, and sew up the ends together on the wrong side of the work ; then sew the band to the bottom part of the crown, taking care to place the band so that the right side will be out when the band is turned up. Put the sewed- up seam of the band to one of the seams of the crown, which will be the back of the cap. Turn up the band, and with a few stitches, keep it in place; the stitches should be in the front and back only. Make two tassels by putting the wool over 2 or 3 of your fingers 40 times, and fasten it by winding the wool round a few times to shape it, then sew to the points of the cap after having cut the loops of the tassels. Take the point over the front of the band (see illustration) and fold it down so that the point comes to the edge of the band on the left side, five inches from the seam of the band, and sew it there. WORK BAG, OR FEET WARMER For Carriage Use. These little bags are very quickly made, and are useful for both the purposes named. The materials required are ij ounces of single Berlin wool in 2 shades. The mode), was black and amber THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. I pair of long bone needles No. 14, I yard of satin ribbon to match one of your shades of wool, 5-8ths of soft silk or satin the colour of the ribbon, a bone crochet hook. Cast on 69 stitches with the dark wool, ist row — knit i, make i, knit 2 together, and repeat to end. 2nd row — like the ist. Do 4 more rows in the dark wool, then join on the light, and do 6 rows. Repeat from the ist row till you have 19 sets of the pattern ; cast off. You must finish with the same colour you began with. Join up the sides and on the top, work round with crochet hook and one of the colours, 6 treble stitches into every 3rd or 4th stitch ; this forms a trimming edging. Line with coloured silk or satin, taking care to leave a selvedge one side. Lay your material on your wool bag and cut it four inches deeper, but the same width. The extra depth makes a frill above the wool bag by turning it over and neatly hemming or run- ning it. Make your bag, keeping the selvedge side open for about 4 inches from the bottom (this allows room for the heel). Place inside the wool bag, and run together with a wool needle full of the same colour as your last row ; then run in a piece of elastic quite tightly round the crochet edge, and fasten by a knot. Finish off with a piece of satin ribbon fastened together to the front, which is to be left hanging for the bag', and tied up when wanted for slipper cosy. ■ (Mil SMALL SHAWL. This is a very pretty pattern and easily worked. The model was a square of 3i inches, but a larger one could easily be made by cast- ing on any number of stitches divisible by 5. Materials : — 3 oz. of Andalusian wool, and 2 wooden needles No. 5, Walker's Bell gauge. Cast on 90 stitches. The 1st stitch in every row is slipped, ist row — plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — (slip i), knit 2 together, forward, knit i, and repeat. 4th row — purl. 5th row— (slip i), knit 2, forward, knit 2 together, knit i, repeat. 6th row — purl. Now repeat from the 3rd row till the shawl is the size desired. Border with a double knotted fringe— that is, fringe in the usual way, then take half of one tassel and half of another, and knot them together about half an inch down. DRAWING-ROOM WALL PINCUSHION. Materials required : — i ball of shaded ice wool best quality, light greens and pinks, 4 steel knitting needles No. 14, a rather fine bone crochet hook, 2 red buttons, small size, with Hhanhs, 1 yard of pale pink inch wide ribbon, 2 pieces of cream coloured satin, 2 pieces of calico, and a small quantity of bran. This novel and pretty pin- cushion is knitted in octagons, two of which are required. Cast on 8 stitches, on 1st needle 2, on 2nd needle 3, and 3rd needle 3 stitches, and then with the 4th needle knit in rounds, ist round — * make a stitch by putting wool round the needle, knit 1 plain; repeat from* 7 times more. Every alternate round is knitted plain. 3rd round * make 1 stitch, knit 2 plain ; repeat from * 7 times more. 5 th round— * make l, knit 3 plain ; repeat from * 7 times more. 7th round — * make i, knit 4 plain ; repeat from * 7 times more. 9th round— *make i, knit 5 plain ; repeat from * 7 times more, nth round— * make i, knit 6 plain ; repeat from * 7 times more. 13th round— *make l, knit 7 plain ; repeat from * 7 times more. 15th round— * make i, knit 8 plain ; repeat from * 7 times more. 17th round — * make i, knit I plain, make I, knit 6 plain, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * 7 times more. 19th round—* make l, knit 2 together, make i,knit i plain, make i,knit 5 plain, knit 2 together, repeat from* 7 times more. 21st round—* make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, knit i plain, make i, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, repeat from * 7 times more. 23rd round—* make l, 2 together, make I, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make r, knit i plain, make i, knit 3 plain, 2 together, repeat from * 7 times more. 25th round — * make I, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, knit i plain, make i, knit 2 plain, 2 together, repeat from * 7 times more. 27th round — * make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make I, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, knit I plain, make l, knit i plain, 2 together, repeat from * 7 times more. 29th round—* make l, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, 2 together, make i, knit i plain, make i, 2 together, repeat from * 7 times more. 31st and 3 following rounds are knitted plain. 35th and 3 following rounds are knitted purl. 39th round — knit plain, and then cast off loosely. Knit a second octagon exactly the same ; when completed, work an edge with the bone crochet hook. 1st round—* work 4 chain, miss i stitch of the cast off knitting, i double in the next stitch, repeat from * all round the octagon. 2nd round of edge, * 2 treble 3 chain and 2 treble (the 4 treble are worked over the 4 chain of 1st round), repeat frou) * all round. 3rd round of edge, 5 treble over the 3 chain of last round. At the corneis work 9 treble instead of 5 treble. To make up the pincushion, cut two pieces of calico the same size and shape as the knitted octagons ; sew the pieces together, leaving a small space to put the bran in, turn it inside out, so the raw edges may be inside, put in the bran, and sew up the opening, then cut the satin the same shape, allowing it a very little larger, and put the cushion in when it is half or a little more sewn round ; sew up, and sew the knitted octagons together, leaving a space for the cushion to slip in, and minding to leave the crochet edge outside where it is joined together. Take a very strong thread double, and a large-sized darning needle, put the needle through the centre of the pincushion, and through the shank of one of the buttons, then put the needle through the cushion again, and tie the thread very tight to shape the pincushion nicely ; put on the second button in the same way, and tie the thread well under the first button put on. Make a nice boio of ribbon, leaving about a finger length at each end, sew the ends to the pin- cushion firmly, and it is ready for use. LEAF AND TRELLIS PATTERN FOR CURTAINS, &c. ist row— knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 5. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — knit 3, make i, knit 3, make i' knit 2 together, make l, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together. 4th row — purl. 5lh row knit " make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 togethei' 205 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 6th row — purl. 7th row — knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together. 8th row — purl, gth row — knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3. loth row — purl, nth row— knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 3. 12th row — purl. Repeat from the first row. For a pair of curtains, 2| pounds of No. S knitting cotton is required, i pair of bone knitting pins. Cast on 144 stitches, or any number that will divide by 18. TRELLIS PATTERN. Cast on 13 stitches, ist row — slip i, by inserting the needle through the stitch as though for purling, then pass the thread back- wards (if the 1st stitch is slipped off in this way it forms a chain edge), knit i, make i, knit 2 together to the end, knit i. Every row the same. CHILD'S HANDSOME KNITTED DRESS, FOR FIVE YEARS. WHITE AND PINK ANDALUSIAN WOOL, BEST ftVALITY, Kilted skirt, with fluted front, and back drapery. Vest Jacket, with fancy border, lining bodice, buttoned at the back, quite ready for use. Will last for year.s, and suit either boy or girl. Price i8s. Address the Editress of Mrs. Leach's Practical Fan'CY Wcrk-dasket. 206 PORCUPINE STITCH. Suitable for Shawls in Wool or Quilts in CoriON.' Cast on in twelves. 1st row — plain, and row — * thread forward, knit 2 together ; repeat from *. 3rd row— all purl. 4th row — plain. 5th row — purl. 6th row — slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4, thread forward, knit i, thread forward; knit 4, repeat. 7th row — purl 3 together, purl 4, thread forward, purl I, thread forward, purl 4, repeat. 8th row — like the 7th. 9th row— like the 6th. loth row — like the 7th ; now go back to the 2nd row. CHILD'S TOILET GLOVE. Materials required ; — I skein of No. 4 knitting cotton, 4 steel knitting needles. No. 13. Cast on as for a stocking, 48 stitches, 12 on the ist needle, 12 on the 2nd, and 24 on the 3rd. Rib 2 purl, 2 plain, for 12 rows, then knit 6 plain rows and 5 purl rows alternately, until you have altogether '95 rows ; then in every row narrow thus : — knit 2 stitches at the beginning of the ist needle, then slip I, knit I, put the slipped stitch over the knitted one. At the 4th stitch from the end of the 2nd needle, knit 2 together, knit the ist 2 stitches of the 3rd needle, then slip I, knit I, put the slipped stitch over the knitted one. At the 4th stitch from the end of the same needle, knit 2 together ; continue these narrowings until you have only 12 stitches left, then close as you would the toe of a stocking. This sized toilet glove suits for a child of six or seven years of age. A larger one may be made either by using coarser needles and cotton, or else by casting on more stitches. Crochet TRIMMING FOR CHILD'S DRESS. This exquisite lace trimming is only worked in simple crochet, but requires to be done with great evenness and regularity. The pattern can be adapted for collars, ladies' dresses, &c., as will be seen from the directions, but the model was for a child of 4 years. The dress was a long-waisted bodice of pale blue surah, lined with muslin. A box-pleated flounce of the surah had the lace laid on before pleating up. The lace flounce was opened in the centre. The box pleating was surmounted by a pale blue moire ribbon finished by a bow front and back. Lace outlined the full front, passing over the back, and surrounded the square neck and short puff sleeve. A novel edging ornamented the neck and sleeves. A muslin balayeuse, edged lace, was placed inside of skirt. 3 yards of surah would make the dress, 2 yards of muslin, 4 yards of lace, 2 large skeins of very fine cream crochet cotton, and a fine steel I'HE FANCY WORK-BASKET. hook. To commence, ist ring — wind the cotton 30 times round the tip of your httle finger. Into the ring thus formed work 48 treble. Join by a single. 2nd row — 6 chain — 2 to form ist double — miss I, I double in ne.xt, * 4 chain, miss l, i double in next. Repeat from * 22 times more, making 24 holes. Join into 2nd of the 5 chain you commenced with, and fasten off. This completes the 1st ring. 2nd ring : ist row — same as the ist row of ist ring. 2nd row — like 2nd row of ist ring till you have worked g holes; then work 2 chain, catch one of the picots of other ring in the centre, make i chain, and fasten into 2nd double of 2nd ring as usual. Catch 2 more picots of ist ring in the same way, and then finish your second ring by working remaining 12 picots as usual. Join 54 rings in this manner for ist row of flounce. 2nd row of flounce: 1st ring: ist row— as usual. 2nd row— work 9 picots, then 2 chain, catch 15th picot of first ring in ist row, counting the picots from left to right from last joining. Catch the i6th and 17th picots. Work the remaining picots as usual. 2nd ring, work 9 picots ot 2nd row. Catch i6th picot (counting from the right) of ist ring in 2nd row. Catch 2 next picots. Work 3 picots, then catch 4ih picot from joining of 2nd ring of ist row. Catch the 2 next picots, and finish the ring in the usual way. You will thus see that you have 3 picots not caught in each ring. Make 52 more rings for 2nd row, and join like the 2nd ring. Repeat the 2nd row 8 times more, which finishes the flounce. It should be 54 rings in length, and 10 deep. Now work the border. Join on in a picot at left hand top corner of flounce, * 5 chain, i double into next picot, 5 chain, i double into every picot till you come to the joining, when work i double into the middle of 2 picots that are caught together. Repeat from * all round to top of right front. 2nd row — * i double into picot, 5 chain, i double into next picot till you reach the picot before join- ing. Put I double into that, and i double into the picot of next ring, no chain between. 5 chain, and repeat from * all along. Do 4 more rows like the 2nd row, to make 6 altogether. Break off. Heading for flounce — i double in a picot, * 2 chain, i double into next, 2 chain, i double in next. These should be the centre three on top of flounce. 5 chain, miss i picot, i long treble in next. (This is the last picot but one before joining.) Only work off half the treble, that is, draw through 2 loops, leaving 3 on your hook. Throw cotton over the hook, and insert in second picot of next ring. Draw cotton through, then through 2 loops, then through 3 loops, then through remaining 2 ; 5 chain, miss i picot, i double in next, and repeat from*. 2nd row — * i long treble into ist loop of 2 chain, 2 chain, i long treble into next, 2 chain, I long treble into next, 2 chain, 5 long treble into loop of 5 chain, 2 chain, i long treble into same 2 chain, i long treble into next loop of 5 chain, 2 chain, i long treble into same, 2 chain, and repea.t from *. 3rd row — 2 chain, 1 long treble into every hole of last row. This completes the croche portion of the flounce. You have now to fill up the centres of rings and the circles where they were joined. This is done with what is called " Spider Web Lace Stitch" and "Open Lace Stitch." For the Spider Web for centres, thread a needle with the same cotton that you have been working with. Make a knot. Put the needle in a the back of the ring, right in the centre, pais under a treble, and draw cotton through. Pass it across the ring at an exact level on the opposite side ; that is, under the 24th treble. Pass it out again 6 trebles farther off to the left, cross it over again to 6 trebles on the right of where you first put it in. Pass it out again 6 trebles off ofthis to the left. Put the threada/rrossihe circle, passing needle under one strand and over the other, insert needle 12 trebles on the left of where you first inserted cotton, pass it under 6 trebles to the left. This forms 3 workings out of four. You have I set of 12 trebles that have had no thread passed under them. You will make your 4th working to finish off in 6th and 7th of these, but before doing so, you must make the centre of web. Pass needle over first strand on your left, imder second, over third, under fourth, over fifth, under sixth, over the thread you are working with, under the I St strand again, over the 2nd, under the 3rd, draw up close and finish off between the 12 trebles as before stated. Do all the centres ahke, and then draw up the joining parts with the open lace stitch. This is done by fastening on into a picot ; throw the thread before the needle, and insert needle in underside of picot. Draw up, still keeping the thread in front; repeat in every picot, drawing up pretty closely. Now run the needle over and under the lower series of threads all round. This completes the pattern. Having made your flounce, make 2 rows of 42 rings each forbretelle to outline blouse and go over back. Edge the same as skirt. Make another piece to correspond for other side. Make 9 rings without any edging for front of neck, and 4 for each back. Do 12 for each sleeve, also without edging. For the edging for neck make a chain the length required, ist row — i treble into 5th chain, * i chain, miss i of foundation, i treble into next. Repeat from * all along the row. 2nd row— turn with 4 chain, I treble into ist hole, i chain, i treble in every hole of row. 3rd row — turn with 6 chain, i double long treble into 1st hole, I chain, i double long treble into every hole of row. 4th row — turn your work and put 12 trebles lengthways under the first double long treble — that is, work into the siVfe, c/oira. You must work u]} under the next double long treble, and doicn in the third, and so on to end of row, putting 12 treble under every double long treble. This is all the pattern. Do two pieces for the sleeves, and this lovely trimming is complete. It may seem endless work at first, but really does not take long when well into it, and the result is so charming that it well repays the time expended. The lace would look elegant on a dark velvet dress. SUMMER QUILT. This quilt was worked in French knitting cotton, makers, Dolfus Mieg & Co., Mulhouse, France. For a quilt 3 yards long and 2| wide, 3 lbs. of No. 16 cotton are required, and a steel hook. The quilt is crocheted in squares, of which there were 210 in the model, 15 long, 14 broad. Make a chain of 4 and unite into a round. ist row— 12 treble into the ring. 2nd row — 2 treble into every stitch of last row, picking up the back loop. 3rd row — 7 chain, i treble into 1st stitch * 2 chain, miss a stitch, I treble into next, 2 chain, miss a stitch, i treble into next, 2 chain, miss a stitch, I treble into next, S chain, I treble into same stitch as last, and repeat from * twice more, 2 chain, miss a stitch, i treble into next, 2 chain, miss a stitch, i treble into next, 2 chain, join into the 3rd of the 7 chain with which you commenced row. The 4 loops of 5 chain form the corners of the square. 4th row — 3 chain, 3 treble into 1st corner loop, 5 chain, 4 treble into same *2 chain, treble over next treble, 2 chain, treble over treble, 2 chain, 4 treble into next corner loop, 5 chain, 4 treble into same, and repeat from * twice more ; 2 chain, treble over treble, 2 chain, treble over treble, 2 chain, join. All treble at the commencement of every row- are formed by 3 chain. In working treble over treble, excepting over the open holes, always work into the back loop. 5 th row — 4 treble over the first 4 treble in last row, 3 treble into corner loop, 5 chain, 3 treble into same, 4 treble over treble, miss 4 trebles, 2 chain and i treble over trebles twice, 2 chain, and repeat from the beginning. 6th row — 7 trebles over trebles, 3 treble, 5 chain, 3 treble into comer, 7 trebles over trebles, 2 cham and i treble over treble twice, 2 chain, and repeat all round. 7th row— 10 trebles over trebles, 3 treble, 5 chain, 3 treble into corner, 10 trebles over next trebles, 2 chain and I treble over treble twice, 2 chain, and repeat. Sth row — 13 trebles over trebles, 3 treble, 5 chain, 3 treble into comer, 2 chain and I treble over treble twice, 2 chain and repeat. 9th row — I treble over ist treble (formed by 3 chain), 2 chain, miss treble, 13 consecutive treble. chain, treble into comer, •?n7 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 5 chain, i treble into same, 2 chain, 13 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 1 treble on next, 2 chain and treble over treble twice, 2 chain, and repeat. loth row — treble over ist treble, 2 chain, I treble over next treble, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 10 consecutive treble, 2 chain, treble over next treble, 2 chain, treble into corner loop, 5 chain, treble into same, 2 chain, treble over treble, 2 chain, 10 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, treble into next, 2 chain and treble over treble 3 times, 2 cham, and repeat, nth row — treble over 1st treble, 2 chain, i treble over next, 2 Chain, i treble over next, 2 chain, miss 2 trebles, 7 consecutive trebles, 2 chain, treble over next treble, 2 chain, treble over next treble, 2 chain, treble into corner, 5 chain, treble 'nto same, 2 chain, treble over next treble, 2 chain, treble over next treble, 2 chain, 7 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, treble over next, 2, chain, treble over next, 2 chain, treble over next, 2 chain, 4 treble into next hole, 2 chain, and repeat. 12th row — treble over ist treble, * 2 chain and treble over treble 3 times, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 4 consecutive treble, 2 chain and treble over treble 3 times, 2 chain, i treble, 5 chain, I treble into corner, 2 chain and treble over treble 3 times, 2 chain, 4 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, treble on next, 2 chain and treble over treble twice, 2 chain, 4 treble into next hole, 2 chain, miss 4 trebles, 4 trebles into next hole, and repeat from *. In the last group, you will only work 3 trebles to finish, as the treble of 3 chain you commenced with will be the 4th. 13th row— 4 treble into ist hole, make 8 holes of 2 treble i chain, which brings you to the corner, 2 chain, i treble into corner, 5 chain, i treble into same, now 8 more holes, 2 chain, 4 treble mto hole on right side of the 4 stitches in last row, 2 chain, miss the 4 trebles, 4 treble into next hole, 2 chain, and repeat. 14th row — I treble into ist treble, 2 chain, miss 3 trebles, 4 trebles into next hole, 7 holes, 2 chain, 4 treble into corner, 5 chain, 4 treble into same, 7 holes, 2 chain, 4 treble into next hole, 2 chain, miss 4 trebles, 4 trebles into next hole, 2 chain, miss 4 trebles, 4 trebles into next hole, and repeat. The last time you will only have to work 3 treble. 15th row — 4 treble into ist hole, 2 chain, miss 4 treble, 4 treble in the next hole, 6 more holes, 2 chain, 4 treble over treble, 3 treble into corner, 5 chain, 3 treble into same, 4 treble over treble, 6 more holes, 2 chain, 4 treble into next hole, 2 chain, miss 4 trebles, 4 trebles into next, 2 chain, i treble over last of the next 4 treble, 2 chain, i treble over ist of the next 4, 2 chain, and repeat. This completes the squares ; they are crocheted together with double, taking care the diamonds match. When you have joined all the squares together, crochet a row of treble right round the quilt; putting 3 treble, 5 chain, 3 treble into the corners ; this is done in every row, and will not be speated. ist row of border — 5 treble into a stitch, 2 chain, miss jtreble, 5 treble into next, repeat all round. 2nd row — 5 treble mto 5 treble of last row, keeping the last loop of each on the needle, then draw through all at once, 2 chain, and repeat. 3rd 208 row — I long treble into centre of 5 trebles, 3 chain and repeat. 4th row — I treble, i chain, miss l, and repeat till you have made 16 holes, put 2 treble into next stitch, and repeat. 5th row — work 14 holes, then 6 treble over the next 2 that have the 2 trebles between them, and repeat. 6th row — 12 trebles over the 6, and the 2 holes on each side, holes over holes, and repeat. 7th row — 12 trebles over the 12 of last row, holes over holes, and repeat. 8th row — miss a treble at beginning and end of the 12, work 10 in the centre, holes over holes, and repeat. 9th row — 5 holes, miss a hole, 9 trebles over next 3 holes, 2 chain, miss a treble, work 8 in the centre of the 10, 2 chain, miss a treble, 9 treble in next 3 holes, and repeat, loth row — 4 holes, 3 treble over next hole, g trebles over 9 of last row, 3 treble over the 2 chain, 2 chain, 4 treble in the centre oi the 8, 2 chain, work 15 treble to match the other side, and repeat, nth row — 4 holes over holes, 18 trebles over the 15, 2 in the centre of the 4,18 over the other 15 (always with 2 chain between), and repeat. 12th row — 4 holes, 8 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 3 treble, 4 consecutive treble, 2 chain, 2 treble over the centre 2 of last row, 2 chain, 4 consecutive treble over treble, 2 chain, miss 3, 8 consecutive treble, and repeat. 13th roW' — 4 holes, 2 chain, miss a treble, 8 consecutive treble, the last being worked into a hole, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 2 treble on next, 2 chain, 2 treble on next, 2 chain, 2 treble on next 2, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 2 trebles on next hole, 6 treble on next 6, 2 chain, i treble on last, and repeat. 14th row — 4 holes, 3 chain, miss 2 trebles, 8 consecutive trebles, 2 being in last hole, 2 chain, 2 trebles over 2 trebles 3 times, 2 chain, 8 treble, 3 chain, miss 2 last trebles, and repeat. 15th row — 6 holes, 3 chain, miss 3 trebles, work 4 trebles, 2 chain, 2 trebles over 2 trebles 3 times, 2 chain, 4 trebles over trebles, 3 chain, and repeat. i6th row — 8 holes, 4 chain, miss 4 trebles, and repeat. 17th row — 8 holes, 3 chain and 18 treble over the 14. 18th row — 8 holes, 5 chain, and 14 trebles in centre of 18. 19th row— 6 holes, 4 chain, 4 trebles by side of 14, * 2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble on next ; repeat from * twice more, 2 chain; 4 trebles by side of 14, 4 chain and repeat. 20th row — 8 trebles by the side and over the 4, 2 trebles over each 2, holes over holes, all with 2 chain between, and repeat. 21st row— 4 holes, 2 treble in next hole, 6 treble, 4 chain, miss 2 treble and 2 chain, 4 treble on next 2 treble, 2 chain and 2 treble on 2 treble twice more, 4 chain, miss 2 treble, 8 treble and repeat. 22nd row — 4 holes, 8 treble, miss 2, 2 cham, 4 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble over 2 treble, 2 chain, 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, 8 treble, and repeat. 23rd row— 4 holes, 2 chain, 1 5 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble over 2 treble, 2 chain, 1 5 treble and repeat. 24th row — 4 holes, 14 treble, miss I, 4 treble over the 2, 2 chain, miss 1, 14 treble and repeat. 25th row — 6 holes between each pattern, miss 2, 10 treble in centre of the 14, 2 chain, 8 treble over the 4, 10 in the centre of next 14. 26th row— 10 treble over the 8, all the rest holes. 27th row — 12 treble over the 10. 28th row — the same. 29th row— 6 treble in centre of 12. 30th^2 treble in centre of 6. 31st row — like the 3rd. 32nd and 33rd row — like the ist and 2nd. 34th row — all treble. This completes quilt. TUFTED QUILT. General directions. All the double stitches in the squares must be worked into the bach strand of the stitches of the preceding row. The treble stitches must be worked into both strands. A clump is made thus — work 5 treble into i stitch of the preceding row ; take out the crochet needle and insert it into the first of the 5 treble through both strands, catch the loop of the Sth treble on the hook and draw it through to close all the trebles. To work a square commence by making a loop, into which work — ist row-^ I stitch to steady the loop, 2 double, 3 chain, i double, 3 chain, 1 double, 3 chain, i double, 3 chain, draw the loop close. 2nd row — I double into the first double of last row, 2 double, 3 chain, miss i, 3 double, 3 chain, miss i, 3 double, 3 chain, miss i, 3 double, 3 chain, miss i. 3rd row — * 5 double, 3 chain, miss i ; repeat from * 3 times more. 4th row — *7 double, 3 chain, miss i ; repeat from * 3 times more. 5th row — * 4 double, i clump, 4 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 6th row — *i i double, 3 chain, miss I; repeat from * 3 times more. 7th row — * 4 double, i clump, 3 double, I clump, 4 double, 3 chain, miss i ; repeat from * 3 times more. Sth row* 15 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 9th row — * 4 double, i clump, 3 double, i clump, 3 double, I clump, 4 double, 3 chain, miss I; repeat from * 3 times more, loth row — *i9 double, 3 chain, m.iss i ; repeat from * 3 times more, nth row — * 4 double, l clump, 3 double, i clump, 3 double, i clump, 3 double, i clump, 4 double, 3 chain, miss i ; repeat from * 3 times more. 12th row — * 23 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 13th row — * 4 double, i clump, 3 double, I clump, 3 double, I clump, 3 double, i clump, 3 double, i clump, 4 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 14th row— r THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. hook work 7 chain, join so as to form a ring ; into this ring work I3 double stitches close together, 1 1 chain ; on it, miss I and work lo doubles, I double into the ring, 17 chain, i douljle into the ring, 19 chain, i double into the ring, 23 chain, i double into the ring, 19 chain, i double into the ring, 17 chain, i double into the ring, 11 chain, and on it miss i and work 10 doubles, i double into the ring; fasten off. Work 8 more fans the same as the ist. 1st row — 4 chain,*! single into end of ist double stitch on ist 11 chain of fan, 5 chain, single into centre of next chain loop, 5 chain, single into next loop, 7 chain, single into next loop, 7 chain, single into next loop, 5 chain, single into 5th loop, 5 chain, single into 6'.h loop, 5 chain, single into ist double stitch on last 11 chain of fan, 10 chain ; repeat from "'^, working into another fan, till you have 9 fans joined together, 5 chain. 2nd row — turn, miss i, work i double into each chain stitch till you come to top of fan, then i chain and i double into same stitch as last, * 25 doubles into the next 25 chain stitches, i chain, miss 2 and work 25 doubles into the next 25 chain stitches ; the last of these should come on the lop of the 2nd fan; i chain, i double into same stitch as last ; repeat from * to end of fans. There should be 25 doubles down last side of last fan. 3rd row — turn, i chain, miss i double stitch and work 25 doubles, catching only the back half of stitch of preceding * 27 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 15th row — * 8 double, i clump, 3 double, i clump, 3 double, I clump, 3 double, I clump, 8 double, 3 chain, miss i ; repeat from * 3 times more. i6th row — * 31 double, 3 chain, miss I; repeat from * 3 times more. 17th row — * 12 double, i clump, 3 double, i clump, 3 double, I clump, 12 double, 3 chain, miss i ; repeat from * 3 times more. i8th row — * 35 double, 3 chain, miss I; repeat from " 3 times more. 19th row — * 16 double, i clump, 3 double, i clump, 16 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 20th row — * 39 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 21st row — * 20 double, i clump, 20 double, 3 chain, miss I ; repeat from * 3 times more. 22nd row — * 43 double, 3 chain, miss I ;■ repeat from * 3 times more. 23rd row — * 3 double, I clump, 37 double, i clump, 3 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 24th row—* 47 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more. 25th row — * 3 double, I clump, 3 double, i clump, 33 double, i clump, 3 double, I clump, 3 double, 3 chain, miss i ; repeat from * 3 times more. 26th row — * 51 double, 3 chain, miss i; repeat from * 3 times more; join with a single stitch and fasten off. When you you have a sufficient number of squares to make a quilt of the re- quired size (100 squares makes a large one), join them together with single stitch ; then work the border, ist row — 3 treble into I, miss 2; repeat this all round. When you come to the corner, for 18 stitches on each side of it, miss i stitch instead of 2. 2nd row — work single treble stitches between the groups of 3 trebles in last row, with 4 chain between each treble. 3rd row — i double, 4 chain, ■j double; work these into each of the chains of 4 in last row. 4th, 5th, 6th rows — same as the 3rd row. 7th row — work the fol- lowing into each of the chains of 4 of last row. i double, 2 treble, 4 chain, 2 treble, i double; fasten off. This border is suitable for a cot quilt. For a larger quilt a heavier border may be made by adding a fringe or by working as follows. Omit the 7th row, and instead of it work i treble, 4 chain into each of the 4 chains of last row. At the 3 corner chains of 4 work i treble, 4 chain twice into each. Work 4 rows the same as the 3rd row given above; repeat these 5 rows until the border is sufficiently deep, then finish off with the edge given in the 7 th row, CREEVE COLLAR AND CUFFS FOR EIGHT YEARS. This collar is extremely handsome, and shaped according to the newest and most favourite fashion. We all know how smart a plain print or stuff dress can be made by the addition of a stylish collar and cuffs. At the seaside, especially, such additions to the little people's toilette is a boon to the harassed mother, who en- deavours to make her children look neat and stylish without depriv- ing them of the pleasures of the sands by over much care of their dresses. If done in loom thread, like the model, it may be worn for a long time without looking tossed or soiled, and the delicate shade of 6cru looks well with any dress, i skein of loom thread No. 4i will make the collar. If cuffs are wanted another skein will be required. The loom thread may be had from A. E. K., Box 10, Post Office, Ballymena, price 6d. per skein, With a fine steel crochet row, * I chain, i double into same stitch as last, 24 doubles down next side of fan, i chain, i double into centre stitch between fans, I chain, miss 2 doubles and work 24 doubles up next fan ; the last of these should be on the top of the fan ; repeat from * all along, having 25 doubles down last fan. 4th row — i chain, turn, miss i double and work 25 doubles ; throughout the bands of double crochet always catch up only the back half of the stitches of pre- ceding row ; * I chain, I double into same stitch as last, 24 doubles down next side of fan, 5 chain, 24 doubles up next side of fan, commencing on 2nd double stitch of last row ; repeat from * all along, having 25 doubles down last side of fan. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows till you have 12 rows of double crochet. 14th row — turn, 5 chain, miss 3 doubles, 1 single into next, t 5 chain, miss 2 doubles, I single into next ; repeat from f 6 times more, * 5 chain, miss I, work i single into next stitch ; this loop should be on the top of fan ; t 5 chain, miss 2, i single into next ; repeat from t 6 times more; 3 chain, I single into double between the fans, 3 chain, I single into 3rd double of next fan (5 chain, miss 2, l single, 7 times); repeat from* all along, having S loops down last side of last fan ; 5 chain, I single into the end of the loth row of double crochet, t 5 chain, i single into the end of Sth row of double crochet ; repeat from t into the ends of 6th, 4th and 2nd rows of double crochet ; fasten off. 1 5th row — commence on 1st stitch of ist row of double crochet, having the wrong side of the collar next you, * 5 chain, I single into the end of 3rd row of double crochet ; repeat from *, working into 5th, 7th, 9th and nth rows of double crochet, 5 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of next 5 chain loop, 5 chain, * I treble into 3rd stitch of next 5 chain loop, t, 6 chain, I single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, I treble into same stitch as last treble, 7 chain, miss a loop, I treble into 3rd stitch of next loop ; repeat from +, working into 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, Sth, 9th, nth, 13th and 15th loops of each mitre ; between each mitre, after working into the 15 th loop, work 3 chain, i treble into the double of last row, between the mitres, 3 chain, and repeat from * ; after working into the 15th loop of last mitre, 5 chain, i single into the next 5 chain loop. i6th row— turn, work single stitches along the last chains of last row till you come to 4th stitch of the next 7 chain, to chain, single into 6th stitch of 10 chain, 5 chain, single into 6th stitch of 10 chain, 5 chain, single into 6th stitch of 10 chain. This forms the shamrock—-* 3 chain, I treble into 4th stitch of next 7 chain, 6 chain, I single into ^rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, treble into same stitch as last 209 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. treble, t 8 chain, single into 4th stitch of 8 chain (5 chain, single into 4th stitch of 8 chain twice) to form a shamrock ; repeat from * 6 times more ; 3 chain, I treble into treble of last row between the mitres, 3 chain, treble into 4th stitch of next 7 chain ; repeat from + all along, having 7 shamrocks round each mitre ; 3 chain, I treble into 4th stitch of next 7 chain, single stitches all along chains of last row till you come to centre of next 5 chain loop, 3 chain, * I treble into next 5 chain loop, 6 chain, I single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, I treble into same stitch as last treble, 5 chain ; repeat from *, missing a 5 chain loop to end ; fasten off. I7ih row — I single on centre of ist shamrock, * 7 chain, i single on centre of next shamrock, 7 chain, I single on centre of next shamrock, 7 chain, i treble on centre of next shamrock, 3 chain, i treble on centre of the same shamrock. This should be at top of mitre (7 chain, i single on next shamrock 3 times), ) chain, i single on ist shamrock of next mitre ; repeat from * all along. Turn and work 6 rows of double crochet the same as the band of 12 rows already worked, only have 26 stitches down the outside of 1st and last mitres, and 25 stitches down each side of the others. When the 6th row is completed, work 5 chain, I single into end of 4th row of doubles, 5 chain, i single into 2nd row of doubles, 5 chain, i single into ist chain of 17th row, 5 chain, i treble into last stitch of chain after last shamrock of l6th row, 5 chain, I single into Ist dot of 15th row, 5 chain, i single into next chain loop, turn, 5 chain, miss the last 5 chain you worked and I treble into the 3rd stitch of next 5 chain, 6 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, i treble into same stitch as last treble, * 5 chain, miss a 5 chain and work I treble into 3rd stitch of next 5 chain, 6 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, I treble into same stitch as last treble; repeat from *, work single stitches down your last treble and along the 5 chain into which it is worked, till you come to the last stitch of the last row of doubles, work loops of 5 chain along these mitres the same as the 14th row of the collar, missing 3 stitches of preceding row under ist, 8th and loth loops of ist mitre, miss 3 stitches under 7th and 9th loops of next 7 mitres, and under the 7th, 9th and i6th loops of last mitre, work 2 loops at the end of your last band of double crochet, 5 chain, i treble into 3rd stitch of the chain after last shamrock of i6lh row, 5 chain, i single into ist dot of 15th row, 5 chain, I single into next chain loop, turn, 5 chain, 1 treble into ist stitch of next 5 chain but i, 6 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, i treble into same stitch as last treble, 5 chain, i treble into 3rd stitch of next 5 chain, 6 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, i treble into the same stitch as last treble, 7 chain, miss ist loop at the end of the band of double crochet, * treble into 3rd stitch of next loop, 6 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, treble into same stitch as last treble, 7 chain, miss a loop and repeat from *, working exactly the same as 1 5th row along the mitres. After working the second treble into 1 5th loop of last mitre, work 7 chain, and join to the next treble stitch ; fasten off. For neck band — commence on ist chain of ist row of collar, holding the wrong side of the work towards you, * 6 chain, i treble into 5th double stitch of fan, 6 chain, i single into centre double stitch of the ring of the fan, 6 chain, miss 8 double stitches and I treble into next stitch, 6 chain, I double into centre of the 10 cham between the fans ; repeat from * all along. 2nd row — turn, 4 chain, * miss i, i treble, i chain ; repeat from *. 3rd row — turn, 2 chain, i trebleinto each stitch of last row. 4th row — turn, 3 chain, 1 long treble, * 2 chain, miss 2 and work 2 long trebles ; repeat from * all along. 5th row — same as 3rd row. 6th row — same as 2nd row. 7th row — turn, 9 chain, i single into 5th stitch of 9 chain, 2 chain, I treble into next treble of preceding row, * 6 chain, miss 6 and work i treble into next stitch, 6 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, i treble into same stitch as last treble ; repeat from * along neck band. After last treble, work a treble into end stitch of preceding row. 8th row — turn and work single stitches along the chains of last row till you come to 4th stitch of next 7 chain, 10 chain, i single into 5th stitch of 10 chain (5 chain, i single into same stitch of 10 chain twice) to form shamrock, * 3 chain, i treble into 4th stitch of next 7 chain, 6 chain, i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, 1 treble into 4th stitch of next 7 chain, 8 chain, I single into 4th stitch of 8 chain (5 chain, i single into same stitch as last single twice) to form shamrock ; repeat from * all along neck band. After last shamrock and treble stitch, work single stitches along it and the end of neck band and along the chains at end of 1st band of double crochet till you come to centre of ist 5 chain of last row of crochet, 10 chain, i single into 5th stitch of 10 chain ; finish a shamrock and continue to work shamrock row same as you have just worked along neck-band, round the entire collar ; follow the directions in i6th row of collar for between the mitres. When you come to 5 chain at end of ist band of double crochet, fasten off. For string — work 6 chain, i treble into ist stitch, turn, 3 chain, i treble into 6 chain, * turn, 210 3 chain, i treble into 3 chain of preceding row ; repeat from * till it is long enough to go through" the collar and tie, pass it through 4th row of neck band and put a little tassel at each end. The collar should be put on so that it will tie behind. For cuffs — work as many mitres as you require for each cuff — about 3 will be sufficient. When working the ist row of neck band, work 7 chain all along instead of 6 chain, then work 2nd and 3rd rows of neck band ; work the shamrock row only along ends of cuffs and along the mitres, not along the heading. They must be tacked to the dress. When the collar and cuffs are quite finished they should be spread out carefully on an ironing board, then lay a perfectly clean, damp cloth over them and iron with a very hot iron. NEW DESIGN FOR LADY'S WOOLLEN PETTICOAT. Many of the stitches used for petticoats either wash toothick, or wash out of shape. This stitch has been in- vented to obviate those dis- advantages, is strong and still keeps its elasticity. Materials required : — 1 2 skeins of best petti- coat fleece in 2 different s h a d e s, 6 skeins of each. The model was in grey and white. Bone hook No. I. With the darker wool, make a chain of 192. ist row — i double into the 5th chain from needle, * 2 chain, miss 2 of the foundation, 2 treble into the next stitch, and repeat from * to end o( row. You should have 48 groups of 2 treble. Fasten off. 2nd row — with the light wool, fasten on in foundation row at the beginning, 5 chain, throw wool over needle, and insert the hook in 2nd chain of foundation row. Draw wool through. You thus have 3 loops on needle. Now insert hook between the foundation row, and the top of the 1st row, i.e., through the little square hole formed by the 2 chain. Draw the wool through, and then, venj loosely, through one loop on needle. Now draw the wool through 2 loops, but over the chain of ist row, so as to encase it ; then draw wool through remaining 2 loops, which finishes the stitch. Make 2 chain, and work i of these long stitches just described into each of the next 2 chain of foundation, and repeat all along. Fasten off. 3rd row — with the darker wool, fasten on at beginning of ist row, 5 chain, i long stitch in 2nd stitch of ist row, * 2 chain, miss the 2 long stitches of 2nd row, i long stitch in each of the next 2 trebles of ist row. Repeat from * all along. 4th row — with the light wool, fasten on as usual in 3rd row. 5 chain, i long stitch into ist long stitch of 2nd row, * 2 chain, miss 2 long stitches of 3rd row, 2 long stitches above long stitches of 2nd row, repeat from * all along. 5th row— fasten on with the dark wool in 4th row, 5 chain, I long stitch above 1st long stitch of 3rd row, * miss 2 long stitches of 4th row, 2 chain, l long stitch above each of next 2 long stitches in 3rd row, and repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and 5th rows 3 times more. In the nth row — increase as follows, 12 plain groups, increase in the 13th by working 2 long stitches, 2 chain, 2 long stitches, 20 plain groups, increase again, plain to end ; tie a piece of coloured wool to mark your increasing. Now repeat the 4th and 5th rows twice more, join the petticoat and work in rounds, leaving the wool each end ; repeat the 4th and 5th rows 3 times more. 22nd row — increase again. 23rd to 33rd plain, 34th increase, 35th to 43rd plain. 44th row- work as follows, 5 chain to commence, do not put wool round TrtE I^ANCV WORK-SASKET. the needle, insert hook in top of 42nd row as usual, draw the wool through, you have 2 loops on needle. Now put hook between 4znd and 43rd rows as usual, draw wool through i loop, draw wool through 2 remaining loops on needle above the chain of 43rd row, 2 chain, 1-epeat 2 of these short stitches into the top of every long stitch of 42nd row. This fills up the vacant spaces, as the 2 chain between lie quite close to the work. This completes the petticoat. For the border with dark wool, 6 chain, 2 long treble (wool round the needle twice) into ist loop of 2 chain of last row, miss the 2 short stitches, and work 2 long treble into next loop of 2 chain, * 3 chain, wool twice round needle, cross to the right again, and work a long treble into the Ist of the 2 short stitches you missed, work another long treble in the next one, miss the next 2 short stitches, and work 2 long treble into the next loop of 2 chain, repeat from *. 2nd row — fasten on with light wool above the ist long treble worked in the ,loop of 2 chain, i long treble over the next long treble you made in the loop of 2 chain, * 3 chain, cross back, and work 2 long trebles over the next 2 long trebles on the right of you, that were worked over short stitches. Now work 2 more long trebles over the next 2 of last row made in a loop of 2 chain, and repeat from * all round. Thus every crossbar is worked over a cross bar of previous row, and the under ones over the under ones of last row. Repeat this last row, alternate dark and light, as many rows as desired : the model had 7. Crochet a row of 4 chain, 1 double, about an inch apart all round the placket hole, sew on a patent dress band, and the petticoat is finished. PETTICOAT FOR CHILD, 6 TO 8 Years. Materials : — 3 or 4 skeins of white Berlin fingering, and i skein of pink or bordering, or make it all white, nedium sized crochet hook, about \To. g. You can hardly give the :xact number of skeins in general lirections, children vary so much n size. Make a pretty firm tight :hain about 8 or 9 inches longer han the width of the child's waist, st row — *miss 2 loops of the foun- lation chain, 5 treble in the next loop, miss 2 loops of the foundation chain, I double crochet in the next loop, and repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool, as you begin all rows at the same end. 2nd row — fasten off the wool neatly to the first shell and work 5 treble in the first double crochet between the treble shells in the previous row, put * one double crochet in the centre treble of the next shell in the previous row, 5 treble in the next double crochet, and repeat from * to the end of the row. The end of the rows, as well as the commencement, will come in scallops. See that you do not lose a shell at either end of the row. 3rd row — work as above, that is 5 treble in the ist double crochet,* i double crochet in the centre treble of the next 5 in the previous row, 5 treble in the next double crochet, and repeat from*. This petticoat is made of rows of shells, 5 treble to each shell, and each shell worked between the shells in the previous row. Continue worki;ig till you have a piece deep enough for the placket hole, when you have done a piece deep enough for the placket hole, say about 5 inches, do not break off the wool any more, but work round and round. 1st round after joining — plain shells all round, without any increase. 2nd round — mark the places with a piece of white or coloured cotton where you must increase in the following manner: place I mark 6 inches to the right of the middle of the petticoat at the front, and another 6 inches to the left of the middle of the petticoat, this will give you a space 12 inches wide in the middle of the petticoat at the front. Now put a third mark halfway between the mark at the right hand side of the middle of the petticoat, and the placket hole at the back, and another mark half way between the mark at the left hand side of the front, and the placket hole at the back. This will give you 4 places to increase at, and you now work the round, increasing at each of those marks. You increase by putting 2 shells over i shell in the previous row. 3rd and 4th rounds — plain without increasing. 5th round — increase again over the places where you increased in the previous increasing, as much as you can, have the increasings slope away from the front, so as to give a gored effect to the skirt. Repeat the 3rd, 4th, and 5th rounds until the skirt is as wide as you wish it to be, then work on plainly without increasing until the work is long enough, excepting the border ; allow 2 or 3 rounds for the border. It is always best to calculate a little on the work becoming narrower and longer when it has been viforn a little, and washed a time or two. For the border— draw the wool through a loop, keep it on the needle,^ draw the wool through the next loop, keep it on the needle. Repeat from * twice more. You will then have 5 loops on your needle with the 4 you took up, and I you had on your needle. Draw the loop you took up last through the 4 on the needle. This leaves you one loop on the needle again, make 3 chain, draw the wool through the next loop of the previous row in the petticoat and repeat from the first * in the directions for the border. 2nd round — 5 treble in the ist hole made by the 3 chain, * i double crochet in the top of the next picot made by the 4 loops drawn into I in the previous round, 5 treble in the next hole made by the 3 chain in th" previous round, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Crochet a close firm row of double crochet round the placket hole Sew the petticoat in a band, or run in a string. INFANT'S TRICOT PETTICOAT. Materials required : — 3 ozs. of white Berlin fingering or petticoat fleecy, and 4 oz. of pink, a long thick tricot hook. Make a chain of 142, pick up 140 tricot stitches, work 27 plain rows, which com- pletes the length of the petticoat. For the band — work a row of double crochet as follows : — i double in ist tricot stitch, * i double in 2nd and 3rd, picking up uboth stitches at once, i double in next, and repeat from *all along. Work 3 more rows of double without decreasing, sew up the petticoat half way, and work the border with the pink wool. 2 treble into i stitch, miss 2 ; and repeat all round. 2nd row — 2 treble over every 2 treble in last row. 3rd row — * 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble, all into i stitch, miss l, i double crochet into next, miss i, and repeat from * all round. Make a chain in pink about a yard and a quarter long, and run it through the band, adding a tassel to each end. LADY'S MUFFLE. This very simple muffle can be made either of Shetland or Andalusian wool. The latter wool is thicker and warmer than the former. The muffle is worked with a coarse bone crochet hook. The directions here given are for pale blue Shetland wool with some white in the ends, to soften the colouring. Any other two colours may be used, or it may be made of one colour only. Grey partridge wool looks very well, and keeps clean for a long time. If made of one colour, j-lb of wool will be required. If of two 3! ozs. of one and ^ oz. of the other will suffice. Cast on two yards of chain stitch with the blue wool, ist row — miss 2 chain * put the wool over the needle, put the needle through the next chain stitch, draw the wool through. Draw out the loop until it is the same length as the two chain missed. There are now three loops on the needle, put the wool over again, and draw it through two loops, leaving two on the needle, put the wool over again, and draw it through these. Take care not to shorten the long loops, the other part of the stitch should be worked firmly. Repeat from * twice more, working into the same chain stitch as before. These three stitches form a triplet, and will be called by that name throughout the pattern. * Miss 2 chain, and work a triplet into the next, drawing the long loops to the same length as in the first triplet ; repeat from * to the end of row. 2nd row — 2 chain, work a triplet through the next stitch, working through both loops of the stitch. A\'"ork the next triplet between the two last on ist row, working through both loops of the stitch. Work in the same way all along the row, ending the row- with one stitch instead of a triplet. Repeat this row until fifty-seven rows are worked. This completes the centre of the mufHe. For 211 THE FANCV WORK-BASKET. the ends work- across as follows, without breaking off the blue wool, 3 chain, work four stitches, as in the triplet, along the edge, work- ing over the last stitch of the last row. Work four stitches in the same way over the last stitch of each row. 2nd row — 2 chain, work four stitches in the same way between the second and third stitches of each pattern of last row, working over the three ply of wool at the top of the pattern. Work six more rows in the same way with the blue wool. 9th row — with white wool, 2 chain, work six stitches between the second and third stitches of each pattern of last row, as in the second row. loth row — with blue wool, 2 chain, work six stitches between each pattern of last row. nth row — 2 chain, with white wool, same as loth row. I2th row — with blue wool, work i double between each stitch along the end, work- ing over the 3 ply of wool at the top of the stitch. Work the second end in the same way. LADY'S TRAVELLING BONNET. Materials required : — 2 skeins of crimson 3-ply fingering wool, a rather fine bone crochet hook, and 4 yards of crimson satin ribbon, ij inches wide. Commence with 4 chain, unite with a single stitch worked into the first of the 4 chain, ist round — * 2 treble into loop of 4 chain, i chain, repeat from * S times more. 2nd round — * 2 treble over the i chain of last round, i chain, 2 treble into same loop as the last 2 treble were worked, I chain, repeat from * 5 times more. 3rd round — same as 2nd round, but repeating from * 1 1 times more nstead of 5 times more. 4th round — * 2 treble over next i chain of last round, I chain, repeat from * 23 times more. 5th round — same as 4th round. 6th round — * 2 treble over next i chain of last round, 2 treble over same i chain as last 2 treble were worked over, I chain, 2 treble over next i chain of last round, repeat from * 1 1 times more. 7th round — * 2 treble over next i chain of last round, i chain, repeat from * 35 times more. Sth round — same as 7th round. 9th round — same as 7th round. loth round — same as 7th round, nth round — same as 7th round. 12th round — same as 7th round. 13th round — * 2 treble over next i chain of last round, i chain, 2 treble over next i chain, 2 treble over same i chain as last 2 treble were worked over, i chain, 2 treble over next 1 chain, repeat from * 1 1 times more. 14th round — same as 7th round, but repeating 48 times instead of 35 times. 15th round — same as 14th round. Now work 4 rows to shape the bonnet at the ears, ist row — * 2 treble over next i chain of last round, i chain, repeat from. * 24 times more. Break off wool. 2nd row — * 2 treble over 2nd i chain of last row, repeat from * 21 times more. Break off wool. 3rd row — same as 2nd row, but repeating pattern 17 times instead of 21 times. Break off wool. Now work again in rounds, and for i6th round, work thus: 2 treble over the Sth i chain of last row, i chain, * 2 treble over next i chain, repeat from * 7 times more, 2 treble into top of next treble but one, i chain, 2 treble over same as the 2 treble of last row were worked over, i chain, 2 treble over next i chain of last row, i chain, 2 treble into top of next 2 treble of last row, i chain 2 treble over same 1 chain as the 2 treble of last row were worked into, i chain, 2 treble over next i chain of last row, i chain, 2 treble into top of next 2 treble of last row, I chain 2 treble over same i chain as the 2 treble of last row were worked over, i chain, 2 treble over next i chain of last row, I chain, 2 treble into top of next 2 treble of last row. i chain, 2 treble over same i chain as the 2 treble of ist row were worked, 1 chain, * 2 treble over the next i chain of 1 5th round, I chain, repeat from * 26 times more, 1 chain, 2 treble over same i chain as 1st 2 treble of ist row were worked over, i chain, 2 treble into the top of 2 treble of 2nd row, i chain, 2 treble over next i chain of 2nd row, i chain, 2 treble over next i chain of 2nd row, i chain, 2 treble into top of 3rd row, i chain, 2 treble over next i chain of 3rd row, I chain, 2 treble over same i chain as ist 2 treble of 4th row, * I chain, 2 treble over next i chain of 4th row, repeat from * 6 times more, i chain, join to ist stitch of i6th round. 17th round . — * 2 treble over next I chain, I chain, repeat from * 21 times more, fasten off wool, miss next 17 chains, and over the next i chain work * 2 treble, i chain, repeat from * 2 1 times more and unite with a single stitch to ist stitch of the round. For the border of the bonnet— * i treble, i chain, i treble over ist i chain of last round, i chain, i treble between the next 2 treble of last round, I chain, repeat from * 2 2 times more, I chain over next i chain, br-eak off wool, miss 13 i chains of last round, and * between next 212 2 treble of last round, work i treble, i chain, and over next I chain, 1 treble, i chain, I treble, i chain, repeat from * 24 times more, join to first stitch of the round with a single stitch. 2nd round ol border — * i long treble (worked thus : put wool twice round the needle, and work as a common treble, but drawing wool through 2 loops 3 times instead of twice), i chain, repeat from * 67 times more, then i treble over next i chain of last round, i chain, i treble over next i chain ; break off wool, miss 1 1 i chains of last round, over the next i chain i double, i chain, over next i chain, I treble, i chain, * i long treble over next i chain, i chain, repeat from * 73 times, join with a single stitch to ist stitch of the round. 3rd round— same as last round, but repeating pattern twice more at each side of ear, and missing 9 i chains instead of 11 i chains. 4th round — work all round bonnet, i long treble over i chain of last round, i chain. 5th round — * i double over next i chain of last round, 5 chain, repeat from* all round, then fasten off the wool. Put the ribbon through the holes in i6th round, and tie the bonnet into shape to fit the head, putting the tied bow behind, then make a nice flat bow with 2 long loops and 2 ends (see model), and sew to middle of the front, sew on strings to tie under the chin, sewing them inside the bonnet to the ribbon, above the ears in the i6th round. BABY GIRL'S HOOD. This is a lovely little hood. Materials required are 4 oz. of cr@me pompadour wool, 2 skeins of white silk, 3j yards of white satin pearl edged ribbon, J inch wide, l yard of 2 inch soft pearl edged ribbon for strings, J yard of white sar- cenet,a creme cap front,and lit- tle wadding, a fine bone hook. The wool is worked double throughout. Commence with the crown : make a chain of 7, work a trebleinto every stitch, work 3 treble into the end stitch, and come down the other side, working the same way; work 3 treble into the last stitch, and unite. 2nd row — treble into every treble right round, increasing at top and bottom as before; unite. 3rd row — same as the 2nd row. 4th row — same; break off the wool. 5th row — miss 5 stitches from the beginning of the work, fasten on in the 6th, work treble into every treble as before till you get within 5 of the other side of joining. This leaves 10 stitches unworked. 6th row — turn with 2 chain, and work treble into treble to end of row. 7th, Sth, 9th rows — same as 6th. This completes the crown. For border — fasten on right hand side of last row, draw the loop on needle out 3 inches in length, put the wool over needle, insert the hook in next stitch, draw the wool through under the centre of the long loops on your needle, make a double crochet to secure them. You thus have a long loop of li inches, 3 strands to each loop, or, rather, 6, as your wool is double; repeat into every hole. Now fasten on your silk and catch together the first 6 strands in the centre with a double crochet, make i loose chain and catch together the next 6 strands, repeat all along ; repeat this border along the next 3 rows. For the rosette, make a chain of 3 and unite, work 8 groups of the border stitch into it. 2nd row — increase 6 times by working 2 groups into one. 3rd row — increase twice. 4th row— increase 8 times ; join and fasten off. For the curtain, make a chain of 34. ist row^i treble in every chain until you get to the i Sth, in which work 2 treble, plain to the end. 2nd row — increase 3 times, once in the centre, and once at each side. 3rd to 6th rows — the same. Now work 2 rows of the border the same as the crown. Take the nanow ribbon, and thread into every alternate 2 treble in the 5th row of curtain above the 2nd row of border, carry the ribbon up the sides and down again into the 3rd row, fasten off at top of curtain; thread 2 other pieces in 2nd and 4th rows of crown. Make a rosette of the remainder of the ribbon on a piece of muslin, sew on the top slightly to the right, sew the wool rosette on the left of it. Now sew curtain and crown together, tack the wadding round the front of crov/n, and line with sarcenet, Isind the cap front with a piece of ribbon or sar- cenet^and sew on the strings. Ladies who prefer to make their own under garments should buy Mrs. Leach's How to Make Underclothing, price zd. The most charming patterns are illustrated therein, and the most elaborate trousseau could be designed from its pages. No less may^the simplest taste find something to please. This publication also supplies some very useful hints and ideas on relative matter. THE FANCY WORK-BASkET. TOILET TIDIES. These pretty tidies are made of perforated card and pale blue v/ool ; about I oz. for a pair and a rather fine bone crochet hook is required. Take a piece of perforated card about ij inches in depth and 7I inches long, lay the 2 edges one over the other about i an inch ; thread a fine darning needle with the wool, fasten into 1st hole of card, throw your wool before the needle and draw the loop up to the top; repeat this in every alternate hole along both edges. Now work a cross stitch as follows. Fasten on in the 4th hole from the top on the left from where you lapped your piece over, carry the wool down and insert needle into 4th hole from bottom on right of the lap, pass it out again through the 2nd hole from this on the left of you, now pass the wool up again in a slanting direc- tion and insert in 6th hole from top on a level with where you first inserted needle, pass it out again in the next hole but one on the right of the hole where you first inserted needle, carry the wool down and insert needle in 6th hole from bottom, on the right, or the 2nd hole above where you put your needle in the 2nd time. This gives you 3 stitches slanting from left to right. Now pass the needle out 4 holes from the bottom on a level from where you first inserted needle, carry the wool up in a slanting direction to the right and insert in 4th hole from the top on a level from where you inserted needle the 2nd time, pass it out again in the 2nd hole from this on the left of you, now pass the wool over slanting to the left and insert in 6th row from the bottom on a level from where you first inserted needle, now pass it out again 4 holes from bottom on a level from where you inserted needle for the 5th time, now pass the wool slanting from the right and insert in 6th hole from the top on a level with where you inserted your needle for the 2nd time, miss 5 holes and carry your wool under to the 6th hole and the 4th from top, when begin another cross stitch. There should be 8 altogether, with 5 clear rows of holes between each and 4 top and bottom. The cross stitch should occupy ID holes long and 9 broad. Now commence the crochet, rst round — fasten on in one of the little button-hole stitches you made * 5 chain, miss 3 of the button-hole stitches, i double into the next, repeat trom * 12 times more, 5 chain to finish round. The rounds will be given, in order to m.ake decreasings clear, but they are not decided rounds, having no beginning or end, but worked on and on till the tidy comes to a point. 2nd round — i double into 1st loop of first row, * 5 chain, i double into next loop, repeat from * 12 times more. 3rd round — 5 chain, i double into ist loop of 2nd round, 5 chain, i double into 12 more loops. 4th round — 5 chain, i double into ist loop of 3rd round, 4 chain, i double 13 times more. 5th row — 3 chain, i double all round. 6th row — same as the 5th. 7th row — 2 chain, i double all round. 8th row — 2 chain, i double all round. 9th row — same as 8th. loth row — same as 8th. nth row — I chain, i double all round. 12th row — same as nth. 13th row-same as nth. 14th row-all double. 15th row- double, missing every other stitch: now go on working double, missing stitches until you get quite a point ; fasten off. For the top edge fasten on in a button-hole stitch, 5 chain, missing 3 button-hole stitches, I double into next, repeat all round. 2nd row — 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into i hole, i double into next, repeat all round. Now make a chain 6i inches long and sew on to tidy from side to side to hang it up by. Make 2 pieces 8 inches each and slip through sides just below the handle to tie u) a bov.', finish each end with little wool balls ; make another piece 10 inches long and finish with balls, sew at point to tie in a bow. LADIES' CONCERT CAPE. This most beautifully soft cape is made of light blue giant zephyr wool. This new make of wool can be obtained from Messrs. Jevons & Mellor, Birmingham, and is most effective in many kinds of work ; it is made in different colours. When using it, care must be taken not to work it tightly, as doing so would greatly impair the beauty of the wool. To work this cape three-quarters of a pound of wool and 2 yards of blue ribboii to match, Ij inches wide, will be required. It is made with a coarse ivory crochet hook. To begin, make 33 chain, loosely. 1st row — miss 2, * make i treble into next chain stitch, 1 chain ; repeat from *. There should be 30 treble stitches across. 2nd row — 4 chain, put the needle through the 3rd of the 4 chain just made ; draw the wool through, work in the same way through the back loop of each of the next 2 chain stitches, and through the back loop of each of the 2 next stitches of the last row ; there are now 6 loops on the needle ; put the wool over the needle and draw it through the 6 loops, make i chain, which completes the stitch. * Put the needle through the little ring formed by the i chain just made ; draw the wool through. Work in the same way through the back loop of each of the 2 next stitches and through the back loops of 2 stitches on last row. There should now be 6 loops on the needle ; put the wool over the needle and draw it through the 6 loops, make i chain ; repeat from * ; take care only to take 2 loops from the last loop in each stitch ; there should be 30 stitches across the row. 3rd row— 2 chain, * 2 treble into the ring- (made by chain stitch) of the last stitch of the last row, 3 treble into the next ring ; repeat from *, i treble into end of row. 4th row— same as 2nd row ; there should now be 38 stitches across the row, 5th row— 2 chain, * 2 treble into the ring of last stitch of last row, 2 treble into the next ring, 3 treble into the next ring ; repeat from *, I treble into the end of the row. 6th row — same as 2nd row ; there should now be 45 stitches across the row. 7th row — same as 5th row. 8th row — same as 2nd row ; there should be 46 stitches across this row. 9th row — same as 7th row. loth row — same as 2nd row. nth row — 4 chain, draw the wool through each of 3 chain stitches, through the next ring and through the back of the next stitch, dravv the wool through the 6 loops now on the needle, make i chain *, draw the wool through the ring just made, through the back loops of the 2 next stitches, through the next ring, and through the back of the next stitch, making 6 loops on the needle, draw the wool through these, make i chain ; repeat from*. Continue working up the front of cape without breaking oft" the wool, in the following way : — * 3 treble into the edge of the row just finished, i double into the edge of next row ; repeat from* up the front and across the neck ; the other front does not reqtiire this edge. Finish round the bottom with a fringe of the wool. To make it take a stitt' piece of card 4 inches long and wind the wool loosely round it 3 times, cut the wool along the bottom, put the needle through the ring of the 1st stitch of last row. Take the threads of the wool cut for the fringe and fold them in half, draw them through the ring with the crochet needle, put the loose ends of the wool over the needle and draw them through the loop now- on the needle, draw the ends firmly so as to make them secure ; work in the same way in the ring of each stitch along the row. Run the ribbon in and out through the holes in the ist row. 213 THE FAt^CY WORK-BA^kEf. ALI, THE BACK NUMBERS Of Mrs. Leacli's Practical FANDY WGBK-BASK ARE IN PRINT, And may te had of all navsvendorSj priCe 2c^., or post free 2^^. from 11. S. CAR'tWRlSHT, 8, Johnson's Cjurt, J'ieet St., London, E.C Ko. 1 contains: — Crewel Work : giving full instructions for e-^ery stitch, ■vvith diagi-ams ; also directions for Crewelling Slippers, Oushions, Antimacassars, &c. Embroidory : giving every stitch, with diagrams. Knitting, with every stitch illustrated. Crochet, with every stitch illustrated. Also how to Knit Sock.'?, Stockings. Loop Knitting—Brioche ; Infant's Vest, Bodice and Biudei- ; Lady's Petticoat ; Beaded Cuff ; Jersey ; Infant's Bonnet; Hearthrug. How to Crochet Pelisses, Petticoats, Slippers, Antima- cassars, Sofa Blanket ; also Netted Fi-ills for potted meats, &c., and Netted Doyley. No. 2 contains : — Knitting and How to Set about it— How to shape Stock- ings of any size, with all the methods of turning Keels and toes ; Quilt Pacterns ; Gloves (silk and wool) ; Bassinette Cover; Baby's First Jacket; Child's Combinations for 2 year;.; Shawl and Scarf Patterns; Cuff and Gauntlet; Baby's Boots ; Gentleman's Sock ; Knitted Vest ; Sofa Blanket, Leaf and Trellis Pattern ; Infant's Petticoat ; Canadian Gloves and Mittens How to Crochet'-Lady's Caps in Point Neige ; Petti- coats; Little Girl's Hood; Loop Crochet; Lady's Under- bodice; Crossover; Mats; Basket Pattern; Crossed Treble Pattern; Collar and Cuffs for Little Bjy; Imitation of Needlework ; Chemise Trimmings ; Baby's Cloak and Hood; Slippers in Point Neige for 4 years ; Shawl Patterns; Fascinator; Edgings and Insertions, wtili Antimacassar Braid ; Sofa Cushion ; Bedroom Slippers in Rus^an Crochet; Infant's Shawl Hood; also— i-'em Work; Net- ting; Home Made Hearthrugs, «fec. No. 3 contains : — Home Decorations. — Chair or Bed Pockets ; Toilet Cushions ; Hair Tidies ; Table ; Blotting Pads ; Table Covers ; Foot Stools ; VVaste Paper Basket ; Purse Bag ; Handy Work Bag ; Work-basket ; Tea Cosies ; Screens; Pretty Coverlids, &c. Patchwork — American Crazy ; Log Cabin ; Cosy Hearth- rug ; Decorations for the little ones, &c., ifcc. How to Knit — Infants' Stays ; Handsome Shawl ; Frock for 5 years ; Lady's Cape ; Baby's Long Stockings ; Infant's Unde> Vest; Baby's Glove; Baby's Boots; Baby _ Boys' Hats ; Baby's Hood ; Jersey Suit. How to Crochet — Bedroom Slippers ; Handsome Antima- cassar in Squares ; Creeve Paletot for 5 years ; Out-door Dress fur 1 to 2 years ; Babies' Jackets ; Baby's Cloak ; Baby's Hood ; Baby's Boot; Petticoats; Tarn o' Shanter ; Jersey Suit ; Kilt Suit ; Shoulder Cape, &c. No. 4 contains : — Presents for Gentlemen— Sfiirt Box; Pincushion; Trin- ket Box ; Bedroom Slippers ; Neck Bolster ; Smoking Cap ; Cuffs ; Vest ; Gl'^ves ; Tarn o' Shanter ; Watchguards ; Housewives. S:c., Sec. How to Knit — Bassinette Cover; Quilt; Stocking for 7 to JO years, with shaped knee ; Cape, Hat and Muff" in Loops; Shiwl in L'-af Pattern ; Nightdress Bag; Hood for "Women ; Lady's Under Veat ; Beaded CufTs ; Creeve Stocking ; Openwoik Silk Stockings ; Petticoat for z to 4 years; Baby's Glove; Vest for 6 months; Infant's Jacket and Boots, and Lady's Summer Petticoat. How to Crochet — Soft Lace ; Babies' Edgings ; Edging with Antimacassar Braid and other Pretty Edgings; D jyleys; Wool Antimacassar ; Dress in Point Neige for 18 months ; Quilt for Cradles ; Shoulder Cape ; Lady's Petticoat ; Opt;nwo>-k Pinafore ; Dress for Boy or Girl ; Bath Slippers ; Child's Bodice in Tricot ; Petticoat for 2 lo 3 years in Daisy Stitch ; Petticoat for lo years ; Hood in Point Meige for 6 months ; Pretty Dress for 10 months ; Baby's Boot. No. 5 contains ;— Mountmellick Embroidery. Howto Knit — Openwork Stockings, Spider Web Pattern; Roseleaf and Grecian Net Patterns ; Double Coraline Patten; Grape Pattern; Lattice Edging; Fine Shetland Shawl, Queen's Lace, Strawberry Pattern ; Pheasant's Eye Pattern; Tansy Pattern; Coral Pattern; Pretty Ruffle; Lady's Plain Cuffs; Good Hearthrug; Carriage Rug; Mat ; Frock for g to 18 months ; Lady's Vest Vest for 7 214 Vears ! Vest for 6 months ; Chest Protector for i year ; Lady's Jerr.(;y ; Garters ; Boy's Stockings for 8 to 10 years ; Girl s Stockings for 5 years ; Baby's Open Diamond Pattern Sock ; Infaius' Boots ; Ladies' and Children's Petticoats, How to Crochet^Child's Combination Petticoat ; Bonnet for (:::x:::>c:::k:::k: :x:::k:::j<:::.>c:::x:::k:::»«: :x:::k: :k:::k: Lay the chart on the material you wish to smock, taking particular care to have it straight. Keep it quite steady, and with a little piece of chalk mark through all the holes you cut in the cardboard on to the material. Should the chart not be sufficiently deep to mark as much of the material as you wish, slip the ::><;::x:::><:::ii:;iK':::>c':::k: top row of holes down to the last - row of dots and continue to mark Chart. it as before. In moving the chart be most particular to lay it exactly in the right place. This may be done by putting two pins through the two end holes of the top row ; let their points rest on the two end dots of the last row on the material, and then the card will slip into its place. A small box containing a dozen coloured chalks suitable for this purpose can be obtained at any stationer's or fancy shop for two or three pence. P^ -»•«•»«» *4 Gathering. work would get puckered, drawn out when the work is completed, Thread a long needle with a piece of cotton. Make a good knot at the end of it and proceed with the gather- ing. In each of the spaces between the dots make a complete stitch ; when the line of gathering goes the whole way across, the thread should cover the row of dots. When all the rows are gathered, draw up each thread and wind it round a small pin stuck into the material to keep the pleats drawn together. There should be a separate pin for each gathering thread, or the These gathering threads are afterwards 217 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. To work honeycomb pattern commence (wjth silk of whatever colour you fancy) at the left hand top corner ; put your needle through from the back to the front of the first pleat exacily over the gathering thread, draw it out, and put it in CI osswise, pointing from right to left through the 2nd and 1st pleats, drawing them close. Sew them over once or several times more, accord- ing to the size of the dot you wish to work. Now insert your needle into the dot you have just worked, taking care that it goes into the 3nd pleat, and draw it out in the same pleat at the next gathering thread ; then insert it crossv/ise into the 3rd and 2nd pleats and sew over as before. A point which must be attended to is that in going from one place to another you must always take your stitch lengthwise, ne-uer across, or you will spoil the elasticity of the work. Perhaps the following plan will help to illustrate what I mean, and make all the patterns more easily understood. The figures all represent the pleats and the letters the gathering threads. HoNEYCOiArB Pattern. A 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 B -> 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 C 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 D 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 E 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 F 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 G 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 H 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 1 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 J 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 Start by putting your needle through from back to front of A i, sew A I and A 2 together, pass the needle from A 2 to B 2, sew B 2 and B 3 together. Insert the needle at B 3 and bring it out at A 3. Sew A 3 and A 4 together, bring the needle down from A 4 to B 4, sew B 4 and B 5 together. Go on in this way, alternately sewing B's and A's until you finish those 2 gathermgs. Start again from C i, sewing it and C 2 together, pass the needle down to D 2, sewing it and D 3 together, pass the needle up to C 3 and sew it and C 4 together, and so on till you have your piece of smocking completed. In the honeycomb and diamond pat- tern as represented in the illustration, 16 gatherings are necessary ; the 3 above and j below are worked almost the same as the honeycomb pattern just described, but the part worked on the 8 centre gather- mg? is somewhat different. In it the thread IS i:ct passed, as in the honeycomb pat- tern, at the back of the work, but is passed on the right side, and thus forms part of the pattern. Insert the needle, as in the honeycomb pattern, into A i, make a cross- wise stitch from right to left in A 2, letting the needle come out below the thread, draw the 2 pleats close, pass to B 3 and take a stitch right to left of it, bringing the needle out below the stitch, then to B 4, bringing the needle out above the stitch ; draw these 2 pleats together. Pass to A 5, making a stitch into it, bringing the needle out above, make a stitch into A 6, bnnging the needle out below the stitch ; draw the 2 pleats close. Pass to B 7 and make a HoMwrnAiT, .ATr, ®''','^'^' '^'^'"Sing the needle out below it, then n^™n make a stitch into B 8, bringing the needle out Diamond. above it. Proceed thus to the end of these 2 gathermgs. Start agam from C i, make a stitch from right to left of C 2, bring out the needle above the stitch, draw the pleats close. Pass to B 3 and make a stitch, bringing the needle out above, theii make a stitch mto B 4, bringing the needle out below it, draw the pleats close. Pass to C 5 and C 6, working as before, and so on until you come to the end of the gatherings. Make the next start again from C i, but this time pass from C i and C 2 to D 3 and D 4, and work along these 2 gatherings. Con- tinue the pattern in this way till you complete the required depth. It is well to put an additional stitch in each point on 218 the first and last of the gatherings in this pattern to give it a proper finish. The rope pattern is a very useful one, and I the 2 stitches given in the illustration often I make nice headings to more elaborate patterns. The bars en the ist, 4th and 7th gather- ings are very simply done. Work' along c dch gathering thread, picking up the pleats one by one with a crosswise stitch, and always bringing out the needle below the stitch. '1 hose i\ ho work creu el work will perhaps more easily understand what I mean if I say that to some extent it resembles outline stitch. The bars on the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th gatherings look more comphcated, but are in reality quite as simple. , They are done in the same way as those just described, only that in every second stitch the needle is taken out above the stitch instead of below it. ROFE PATTERN. The basket pattern is done thus — Com- mence at A I. Sew It and A 2 together ; rnake a stitch crosswise through A 2 from right to left, bringing out the needle below the stitch. Sew A 2 and A 3 together once ; make a crosswise stitch through A 3, bringing the needle out above the stitch. Sew together once A 3 and A 4, then make a stitch through A 4, bringing out the needle below the stitch. Continue thus to the end of the gathering. The thick bar of work at the top of the illustration is made by working 5 rows of this close together. The thin bars in the centre are made by single rows of it. To work the lower part in the engraving, work 2 rows of the above close together, and then instead of working from left to right in straight lines, work in diagonal lines down- wards from right to left, finishing off with a row of rope stitch. BASKET PATl'ERN. 'kMm LATTICE PATTERN. The two diamond patterns given in the engravings are both done on exactly the same plan, only one is deeper and has a greater number of gatherings than the other. Before working the diamonds do the rope stitches above and below, as these will steady the pleats and make them easier to work upon. Then start from A I. Insert the needle in a slanting direction downwards from right to left of A 2 ; insert the needle then into pleat 3 in the same way, starting on the same level at which it came out in pleat 2. Repeat this in pleat 4 ; the needle should in this pleat come out exactly on gathering B. Now make a stitch into B 5, slanting the needle upwards instead of down- wards, make stitches, slanting the needle upwards, into pleats 6, 7 and 8. At pleat 8 the needle should come out on gathering A. Proceed in this The lattice pattern is worked some- thing like herringboning. To work a piece the depth shown in the illustra- tion 8 gatherings are necessary. Work rope stitch across gatherings A and H. Then start by inserting the needle from back to front of B i . Take a crosswise stitch through C 3 and C 2, pass up to the B line and take a stitch through B 4 and B 3, then down again to C 5 and C 4. Pass up to B 6 and B 5, and so on to the end of the 2 gatherings. Next work in the same manner gatherings D and E, and then gatherings F and G. ' ' < I * ' .1 DIAMO.'JD PATTERN. THE FANCY'WORK-BASKET. DIAMOND PATTERN. way, coming down again on gather- ing B at pleat 12 and so on till you come to the end of the row. Start again from C i and work upwards till you come to B 4, and down again to C 8 and so on. .__^___«__^ The half chevron pat tern is worke .. on much the same plan as the diamond pattern. First work the rope stitches to steady the pleats, and then to work the half chevron, take stitches in a slanting direc- tion downwards as in the diamond pattern for 6 pleats, and then upwards for 6 more, and so on. To make the feathering, turn the work so that the pleats run from right to left instead HALF CHEVRON of up and down. Start from pleat i and pattern. slightly to the left of a gathering, make a buttonhole stitch through pleats I and 2 ; pass to the right side of the gathering, and make another buttonhole stitch into pleats 2 and 3, then into pleats 3 and 4 at the left side, and so on alternately right and left of the gathering. In the feather stitch and double chevron shown in the engraving, the rope stitch and straight lines of feathering should as usual be worked first. To work the double chevron, the work should be turned as directed for feathering. It is worked on the same plan as feathering, only instead of going alternately to the right and left, 5 stitches are worked to the right and 5 to the left, advancing i pleat at every stitch. It is easy to do, and only requires a little practice to get it quite even. The dotted chevron i'~ w o r k ( d much the same as the diamond and honeycon h pattern, vnth the thread il ways pas ' d on the ri ht side 01 the work. Start from B i, sewing it and B 2 together 3 or 4 times to make a dot. Pass to A 2, making a crosswise stitch, sew it and A 3 together several times, bringing the needle out the last time between the 2 pleats below the dot. Pass down to B 3, tnaking a crosswise stitch through it, sew it and B 4 together 3 or 4 times, bringing the needle out between the pleats below the dot. Pass down to C 4, make a dot on it, and C 5, bringing out the needle between the pleats, and passing up to B 5. Sew B 5 and B 6 together, bringing the needle above the dot, and passing up to A 6. Continue thus to the end of the row. The next chevron starts from gathering E, and is worked on it and gatherings D and F. The third row is worked on gatherings G, H, and I. j_* i.».itf.^-«j»j»jfi.U'«i,^-i:ui.^.*».^ DOTTED DIAGONAL PATTERN. In the dotted diagonal pattern, start from A I, and work a dot into it and A 2 ; pass on the wrong side of the work down to B 2, and make a dot on it, and B 3. Pass down on the wrong side to C 3, and work a dot on it, and C 4, and so on until you reach the last gathering. Then start afresh (missing 2 pleats) at A 5, make a dot on it, and A 6. Proceed in this way BJtill the pattern is completed. WflA A A FLAlHtK blUCH AND DOUBLE CHEVRON. '<■ t S f\ A A. / \ A A r- ^^ DOTTED CHEVRON. To work the dotted diamond pattern make a series of diagonal lines as described in the dotted diagonal pat- tern, only missing 4 pleats instead of 2 between each line. When these are worked, start again from the same points, and work a second set of diagonal lines from right to left. In these two last patterns a little variety may be made by passing the thread on the right side of the work instead of the wrong, as in the dotted chevron pattern. dotted diamond pattern. In all the patterns, if necessary, the work should be pressed on the wrong side with a hot iron, taking care if the material be a delicate one to put a handkerchief or piece of muslin between it and the iron. The gathering threads should then be all removed. Before starting any pattern the exact number of gatherings necessary should be ascertained, as it is impossible to add another gathering properly after the smocking is commenced. The ingenuity of the worker will probably suggest a great variety of patterns not given in this article. Zephyr, sateen, serge, cashmere, and satin are all suitable materials for smocking, and great taste can be dis- played in choosing suitable shades in silk and ingrain cotton for doing the work. The basket pattern, also the double chevron, look very well worked in different shades of silk. The worker must use her own discretion in choosing her patterns. Some pull more easily than others, for instance, the lattice pattern, and therefore do not suit where there will be any great amount of strain on them. I would recommend beginners to practise on some common material for a little while before trying the work on anything valuable. A crossbar zephyr is an excellent material to try experiments on, for if the pattern be sufficiently accurate to use it as a guide to doing the gatherings it saves some trouble in dotting it before commenc- ing the work. One always grudges time and trouble spent on mere experiments. Art Needlework. The designs represented for embroidery here can easily be reduced or enlarged, and can be utilised for furniture purposes, or dresses, aprons, &c., executed in crewels or silks, and rendered brilliant by working the stems and veins with metallic thread. The patterns can be imitated either in their natural colours, or in a single hue. The stitches are very easy — viz., the twist, pass^, straight, and French knots, which can be more rapidly replaced by beads. So many ladies now paint on velvet, silk, satin, &c., perhaps it will be as well to mention that when purchasing the preparations required it is important to say whether the paints are to be used on satin, wood, china, &c., as each fluid is mixed in different ways accord- ing to the surface for which it is intended. The best medium for painting on silk or satin, so as to render the paints supple and prevent them cracking, is the Adolfi. "It must be mixed with all the colours used. The parts which are to be painted rose, blue, or violet must lie laid in with white, well satu- rated with the pre- paration, and this layer must be left to thoroughly dr)', which generally takes two days. The brush is always to be dipped in the medium before using the paints. The liquid must never be used unmixed with colour. When once the colour is on the stuff it is important, after a few minutes, to apply again the brush on the painting ; thus the brilliancy of enamel will be ob- tained. The bottle must be well shaken each -time the liquid 219 FIG 6. VIOLETS THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. is used. Remaining liquid must not be put back into the bottle ; nice soft hair brushes must be used." Such are the directions given by the patentee. Doubtless, like everything else, practice is required before the colours are really not subject to cracking. Another capital me- dium for use with oil or water-colours in painting on wood, silk, satin, velvet, or any other material is Veloutine, which can be obtained through any chemist or artist's colourman. Either of the designs we give here for embroidery can be copied in oil or water-colour for decorating sunshades. Fig. 6 would lookcharming on a black satin one, dresses, hand-screens, &c., as well as blotting-cases, handkerchief-cases, and many other articles both useful and ornamental, for taste has run into such an artistic groove, that fresh plans have constantly to be started to give vent to this impetus. A pretty present is a glove sachet. It is made large enough tohold the longgloves now in vogue; the pockets are of quilted satin, the lining of which should have a dusting of orris-root powder ; the outside should be of plain satin with one of_the designs given here either worked in coloured silks or crewelsorpainted, and the initials embroider- ed on the other. A ruching of satin and a frill of lace finishes the border ; narrow ribbon, or cord and tassels, tie the t!vo sides together. About half a yard of satin is required. Ladies who have not suffici en t time or patience to work or paint on the satin can use a rich brocade, the pattern outlined with gold cord. Again, plain sateen covered with white lace or muslin is both inexpensive and exceedingly pretty. A bed-room set of tidy, hand- kerchief sachet, and fig. 7- CONVOLVULI. bed-pockets made in this style, with a little bow of ribbons and spray of forget- me-not, or three or four ivy leaves in the centre of tidy and pockets, makes a most effective present, and simple to manufacture. For the two former articles the shape must be cut in stiff paper or cardboard covered with sateen or whatever material is used, and the parts stitched firmly together. The great advantage of these useful little articles made in this way is that when the lace becomes dirty it can be washed and put on again, looking as fresh FIG. 8. as ever. FORGET-ME-NOTS. The decoration of furniture is now taken in hand by almost every association of ladies' work, and opens a vast and interesting field to embroideresses. No one could begrudge the time and thought spent in ornamenting those little knicknacks which brighten up our homes, yet the extension of the ornaments to chairs, screens, tables, &c., raises the art of the needlewoman to one of great importance and technical knowledge. The woman who likes to go in for every- thing thoroughly can now indulge in a hearty practice of freehand drawing and geometrical figures. Arabesques and conventionalised flowers occur most frequently in chair-seats, panels, tops of stools, &c , the materials differing as taste and circumstances will allow. Ap- pliques of silk or satin, for instance, throw up to perfection the velvet ground. Serge, cloth, and canvas are quite as often used for grounds. In some models the needlework is a tone-upon-tone design of crewels on serge, while in others a simple outline of stalk stitch in bright colours forms an attractive decoration. Stamped velvet filled up with gold thread or bright-coloured silks in chain stitch throughout its 'interstices finds many admirers. The style of 220" room often determines the kind of household, especially as regards the window hangings, valances, and the upholstering of chairs. Dining-rooms or libraries require ornaments of a solid type, merely the back worked, and a band and fringe headed with brass nails round the seat. But it is on wickerwork chairs that the embroideress loves to exercise her skill, and what a charming effect can be obtained when the skeleton is covered with needlework ! Imagine one with a seat of Roman sheeting or fine serge, with an application of satin arabesques dashed with stitches in crewels and filoselle, outlined with a cord or thick gold thread held down by intersecting stitches. When intending to arrange a design, the^e is a ready and fashionable mode open to the amateur — viz., as already suggested, filling in the hollows of broch6 silk and velvets, letting the embossed part appear like a rich glossy ground, and the interstices represent a pattern radiant in Oriental silks. When not wishing to entirely cover a wickerwork chair a good plan is to stain it, or coat it thickly with a black enamel paint, and gild certain parts, then fit it up with prettily worked cushions. They look very light covered with linen canvas, enlivened by cross-stitch patterns in coloured cotton, or gobelin tapestry-stitch, which does not take so long to do as cross-stitch. Again, a pastoral scene in Watteau colours can be cut out of cretonne and appliqued on the back and seat, which would be effective. Richly worked sofa- cushions and chair-covers ucem almost a necessity in well appointed rooms. At present there is quite a glut of rich plush, velvets, elaborate oriental needle- work and fussy fringes. A pillow of plain Roman satin, or plush and satin combined, is always effective, with some border lightening the general effect, be it of lace, a pattern worked in coloured silks or gold cord, or, again, most effective of all, velvet or satin of a contrasting colour, appliqued on. A deep cardinal velvet, decorated with appliques FIG. 9. ROSEBUDS, of golden fawn satin outlined by sky-blue filoselle caught down with gold silk or thread, is charming. The three colours are repeated in the lines of stitches forming the border. A star is formed of eight diamonds for the centre and a border of appliqui and twist-stitch, the satin to be outlined to match the star. Fig. 10 shows the border ; ^_^ the straight bands and ^^^ Vandykes of satin to r viJi have feather stitch of cardinal silk. This could be produced in other colours to suit the taste of the worker, or harmonise with the furniture and hangings of the rpom it is intended for. Antimacassars are another expensive kind of article to buy ready made if consisting of satin or plush, now so much used for them, but which can be manufactured at home for very little. It is frequently the case that the net part of white lace curtains is entirely worn out before the border or pattern part ; the consequence is the best portion is used for back-room short curtains. Now if the border is cut into strips or squares, according to the condition of the curtains, and dipped in coffee, or water in which a little saffron is dissolved, most charming and fashionable chair-back or sofa covers can be made. First of all we will suppose you have cut your curtains into squares, taking care the pattern in each matches as near as possible ; 4 inches square is large enough ; then join satin the same size on which you have worked a design, either flowers or stars in a contrasting colour, finish with a border of lace or vandyked edging of satin feather-stitched round with silk to match stars, or with gold thread if flowers form the centre of square. Any of the patterns given in a previous number would be suitable. Another quick and effective way is to cut out some of the pretty designs that are to be found in cretonne, and appliqu6 them on to the satin or sateen, sewing a gold cord round the edge. Again, if the lace is in strips, satin, or whatever material you use, can be combined, on which work a run- FiG. 10. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. ning pattern either of flowers or lonir-stitch. Exceedingly pretty and inexpensive bed-covers can be made in the manner we have described. You can buy for the purpose very cheap insertion about ■5 inches wide, and edging to match, for3ld. to 6Jd. per yard. Ladies who would not care to spare the time to work the strips for so large an -article as a bed-cover can make most effective ones with strips of cretonne that has a stripe in it, which can be cut out to go between the lace insertion ; the cover must be lined with a bright colour to show up the pattern of the lace ; pink is the most effective. A very useful and cheap bed-cover can be made with alternate strips or squares of cretonne and black sateen, with a border of deep lace or ball worsted fringe all round. The valance can be of cretonne with a black bandstitchedonabouttwoorthree inchesabovethehem. When required for warmth, a cover of this kind has only to be lined with wadding to become equal to an eider-down quilt at quarter the cost, and you have the satisfaction of beholding your own work, which certainly is gratifying when you see it is both useful and ornamental. It is said by some that too much embroidery finds its way into our modem homes, and is scattered over everything, and not always in the best taste ; but surely we can forgive the want of taste and colour occasionally displayed when we consider the industry which has prompted the attempt. Many a tale of a heart saved from breaking by the busy fingers could a piece of needle- work unfold were it endued with the gift of speech. Occupation is the universal (lanacea for all sorrows, and to many a woman occupation of any other kind than needleworkis denied. Truly it has been said that a needle is to a woman what the friendly and solacing pipe is to a man. The smallest piece of embroidery in a room will often attract more notice than the most gorgeous brocade. The result is an air of homeliness, individual care, and an effect unobtainable when the houses are fitted up in the latest style, as like to their neighbours as peas in a pod. Wonders can be accomplished by young girls if an amiable " someone " is near to guide and direct. Who does not sympathise with the small woman wading through a seam or monotonous strip of knitting with no change of colour ? Quite little fingers can work bands suitable for decorating bamboo knicknacks, bookcases, whatnots, &c., on a foundation of coarse canvas. Long stitch can be counted without any difficulty on Java canvas, or the design can be outlined with a coloured crayon, which can be rendered permanent by a line of Chinese white, or oil paint, applied with a fine brush. The strip should be vandyked, and edged with little tassels or ball fringe ; if with the former odds and ends of wool can be brought into requisition. Another pretty style of valance is in guipure work in any of the favourite hues, softly set off by a back- ground of silk or whatever material you have, in harmonious or contrasting tone. This kind of work is very quickly done, and ;an be utilised for trimming dresses, as well as decorating furniture, &c. It is very simple; all you have to do is to trace the pattern you wish to produce on a plain strip of material, which is easily done with the aid of tracing paper. Tack it firmly on to the ground part, and work all round the design in button-hole stitch, or cord fastened down with silk the same shade or contrasting hue, attaching the different parts of the pattern to each otlier with twist-stitch, or button-hole worked over a straight line of two or three bars of silk. When finished, cut round the design, taking care to pass the scissors under the connecting lines, and not cutting the foundation. It can also be done without the foundation being left, in which case it is lacy in appearance and eiidless wear for washing dresses. But this is digressing. Now for bed-room decoration. Madras muslin is very cheap and is extensively used for the purpose. Here is one example in blue and white. Short curtains of the muslin on brass bands or iron rods covered with blue glazed cambric, and tied back with ribbon bands — a width in each will be sufficient. A lace or fancy coverlet lined with blue. Valance of the muslin also lined, and if you have curtains to the bed, a band of blue stitched on an inch above the hem ; the back of the bedstead should have alternate fluted strips of blue lining and muslin ; a vandyked valance with band and blue tassels between and at each point makes the necessary finish. The dressing-table valance must he also lined, so must the mantel draperies. The fender should be filled with willow shavings and Japanese fans. This style is very pretty, and does not show the dirt as white does, the Madras muslin being of a yellow shade, which harmonises beautifully with blu e. SPECIAL NOTICE.— WITH THE OCTOBER NUUBEB OF MRS. LEACH'S PRACTICAL FAMILY DRESSMAKER, Price 2d., will be Presented Gratis a HANDSOME COLOURED PLATE 0? THE LATEST PABIS FASHIONS. OBPEB EABLT. Crystoleum Painting. A house seems dreary and uncomfortable, be it ever so well fur- nished, if there is an absence of decoration, which is too frequently the characteristic of English homes. There are few ladies who cannot spare an hour or two, if so disposed, to beautify their rooms in some way with but little outlay. Crystoleum painting is not nearly so difficult as some imagine, and is most effective, and the best mode of transforming ordinary poTtraits or landscape views into artistic productions for decorating the drawing-room. You can procure a small box of oil colours (or buy tliem separately;; a bottle of oil medium ; a pair of bent glasses made for the pur- pose; a little gelatine, and some very fine glass paper. You then take the photograph you wish to operate upon — unmounted if pos- sible; if not, take it off the card by damping the back. Lay the portrait in water until thoroughly moistened; prepare a solution of the gelatine made rather stiff, and aftercarefully wiping the photo, dip it in the solution, then take it out and lay it face downwards upon the glass, and carefully squeeze out all the superfluous gelatine and air bubbles until the surface is perfectly clear, then lay it aside to dry. After being thoroughly dried without artificial heat, or it will crask, take a piece of the glass paper, and gently rub away the back of the photo in order to thin the paper, and so rendering the picture transparent. When you have done this, apply with a camel's hair brush some of the oil medium to the back of the photo. Then take another brush and touch in on the back the finer details, if it is a portrait, such as the eyes, hair, &c. ; then, when this has dried, take the other glass, lay it on the back and paint in the larger portions of the photograph, such as the dress or coat, background, &c., in one colour merely ; although looking at it at the back it appears patchy, seen through the glasses, it is quite effective. All you have to do now is to bind round the edge of the two glasses with thin paper, and frame it ; a deep red plush shows up a portrait better than any other colour. Now for landscape photographs — for which you anust have flat glasses instead of convex ones — a similar mode to this is to procure a good piece of stout glass, soak your photo as for crystoleum, and put it in the gelatine solution ; then lay it on the glass, press out the bubbles and let it thoroughly dry. No colouring is required, and if the picture is framed in a black and gold or oak frame, the effect is very charming, having the appearance of an enamelled photograph, the gelatine bringing out the details of the view. This style of painting is a very effective one, and requires but little practice to bring it to perfection, and can be done by any lady having a little spare time to devote to it. The process being a mechanical one, a knowledge of drawing or painting is not requisite, although an acquaintance with the former is certainly an advantage; but with taste, much can be accomplished to give satisfaction to both worker and beholder. Ladies who wish to add a little to their income can generally receive orders without much difficulty, when proficient in the art, 5s. being the price charged for photographs. Of course this mode preser\'es the portrait from fading, which is a great advantage, for however well finished the ordinary photo may be, in time it changes colour or spots, even when framed. RECEPTACLE FOR TENNIS BALLS. Cut 4 pieces of Roman satin each measuring 10 inches square. These form the sides of the bag ; the bottom of the bag is made of a square the same size, bind all these squares with wide white braid, tak- ing care that the braid is not put tightly down the edges of the material at the sides, but rathel- slack. Then sew the squares together. Run narrow steels, like those used for the backs of dresses, down the braid at the sides, and this will show the reason for bind- ing the sides loosely, that is, to leave room for the steels. Now take 2 pieces of the material, each measuring 14 inches in length, and 2 inches and a half in width. Fold these over so as to get 2 bands each an inch and a half in width, and machine-stitch them about half an inch from each edge. These are to form the handles, and must be attached firmly to the sides of the bag, covering the stitches with a pretty and full rosette of braid. Fasten these handles together at the top where they cross and put a rosette there also. These bag-baskets form capital presents for tennis players, and are very inexpensive to make ; a THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. yard of rather wide material is sufficient, and about a dozen yards of braid are required. The initials of the owner and an appropriate device of crossed rackets and balls may be embroidered in wools on the sides if considered an improvement. Brownholland and scarlet braid, or a pretty cretonne, may be used if preferred to the Roman satin. carry it by, if preferred. Old ladies much appreciate these bag' boxes to carry their knitting in, if the box part is long enough to take a pair of knitting needles well. The sides of the box form a sort of protection for the points of the knitting needles, the knitting itself going into the upper or bag part of it. KNITTING NEEDLE CAPS. GLOVE BOX. Very pretty glove boxes may be made at small cost from the cardboard boxes in which corsets are usually sold, plush, silk cord and moderately stout cardboard. Plush is the prettiest material to use for the outside, but satin nicely embroidered, or even cloth with an appliqu<5d design on it, will be equally appro- priate. One such box that we saw lately had a kid glove laid a little aslant on the top and appliqufid to the satin with a few stitches. The glove had been carefully cut in half lengthways so that it could lay quite flat on the box The lid must first of all be taken off, and if it has sides, they may be cut away altogether, leaving only a flat oblong piece of cardboard. The top of the lid should be veiy lightly padded with wadding or cotton wool. When this is done, cover the lid carefully and smoothly with plush, fastening it under- neath with a few stitches with stout cotton drawn from side to side. For the lining, cut a piece of cardboard the exact size of the lid and cover it with silk. Place this right side outermost against the wrong side of the lid, and sew it all round with the smallest stitches possible. For the lower part cut a piece of plush rather wider than the box and long enough to go all round it, stretch it very tightly round, and secure it with a few invisible but strong stitches at the side. The raw edges on either side of this strip of plush must be folded down on the bottom and into the inside of the box, and fastened with a stitch or touch of glue here and there. Line the box itself by cutting four pieces of cardboard the exact shape and size of the box inside measurement. Cover these with the same silk that the inside of the lid has been lined with. Sew them together with the silk inside so as to make a sort of skeleton box without any bottom to it. This must be slipped inside the box and sewn round the edges to the outside covering of plush. Cut a piece of cardboard in the same way for the bottom. When this has been covered with the silk, it should be pushed down to the bottom of the box, and will be probably found to fit so tightly that it will require no fastening at all. The whole box should be finished off with one of the many fancy cords to be had now, sewn on at the edges so as to hide the stitches. The lid must then be strongly and firmly sewn to the rest of the box at the back, and finally two small hinges of ribbon sewn inside the lid to balance it, and to keep it open. A bow of ribbon or a fancy button may be added to the front of tBe lid to open it by, if considered necessary. Small wooden boxes often turn out remarkably well when covered in this way. Little tacks or nails in them may often take the place of stitches. We have covered them very successfully with cretonne. Some boxes may be used that are large enough and strong enough to serve as seats or footstools, but in this case the top will require a good thick stuffing of flock with a layer of horsehair at the top. These form good useful little pieces of furniture at cost of very little, save time and patience. Correspondence card boxes covered with plush, neatly and nicely in the manner above described, form charming little caskets to stand on a dressing table to hold trinkets or handkerchiefs, while round collar boxes may be provided, with a pincushion on the lid, the lower part of the box holding the trinkets and odds and ends. In finishing these successfully, great neat- handedness and patience are required, as in most of the other branches of fancy work. Receptacles for work may be made by covering the bottom part only of a cardboard box in the way mentioned, lining it inside and also underneath with silk. Instead of a lid, however, take a piece of silk about half as wide again as the depth of the box, and as long that it will fit all round the top of .he box, join it neatly down the side, and sew it to the top of the box all round. Make a hem at the top with a running in the middle of it to hold a double ribbon with which to close the mouth of the bag. The result will be a box with a bag of silk at the top. Two handles of cord may be attached to the sides of the box to 222 The Caps out of Use. These protectors for the points of knit- ting needles are appreciated by ladies who like to take their work with them to the beach, the woods, or to amuse themselves . with during a long railway journey. They are by no means difficult to make, but are somewhat "fidgetty," and require a good amount of patience. Take two un- used corks like those used in wine bottles (we recommend new or unused ones, be- cause those that have been in a bottle are apt to be damp and to rust the tips of the knitting pins). With a sharp knife, cut these corks about an inch in length, and round off the angles at the top, so that they are somewhat conical; then cover them very tightly and firmly with flannel, cashmere, beige, or anything soft and matching the outside cover in colour. Take care that any join there may be in this cover of flannel does not come near the lower or flat end of the cork, or it will not only look unsightly, but will prevent the tips of the needles from going in easily. A piece of elastic is next required, just one inch shorter than the knitting needles for which you wish to use the caps most frequently; sew an end of this very firmly to the side of each of the caps already made. Now, for the outside ornamental cover of the caps, take a piece of plush nearly two inches wide and long enough to fit round the cork. Join it down the sides and turn in the raw edges at the top and bottom, slip it over the cap and secure it at the lower edge with a few small stitches. Gather the upper edge on the top of the cork very strongly and The Caps in Use. neatly, finishing off the middle with a large button with a shank like that of an ordinary boot button. Cover the cork at the other end of the elastic in precisely the same way, and then proceed to ornament the plush caps in any way that is most suitable or convenient. A ring of little beads round the lower edge looks very well, or a band of gold braid or cord. These are quite new, and would be sure to meet with a quick sale at bazaars. We have recently made a pair in this manner, using a close, short-haired fur to cover the caps with'instead of plush. DAISY TOILET CUSHION. This handsome model is one of the prettiest we have seen. It may be adapted either to cover a toilet cushion of light blue satin or as brush-and-comb cover for the toilet table — the material, required is the well known " waved " or, better, " pointed " braid which you can buy in pieces of 12 yards for 6d. or 8d. at every fancy work shop; besides this, you require a skein of thick yellow silk twist or crochet cotton for the centre — the colour must be exactly like real daisies — a reel of sewing cotton. No. 70, and a fine steel crochet needle. The braid must be exactly as wide as this pattern ; if larger or smaller, the daisies will not look natural. Commence by cutting off 17 points of the braid, and sew them ■ neatly together, to form a ring with 16 points pn each side, crochet the centre with THE FANCY WORK-BASKET yellow silk twist. Make 2 chain stitches, work 4 double stitches into the first chain stitch, which will make a tiny round, then work ' 2 double stitches into each of these 4, making 8 stitches all round ; in the next row increase in the ist, 3rd, 5th and 7th stitch and so go on in every other stitch till you have 16 all round, the centre being a little raised. Then take your ring of braid and crochet the yellow centre to the white leaves, formed by the 16 points of braid ; this must be done at the back of the daisy, so that this joining row is not seen at all from the front, by drawing your thread also through one of these little points each time you make a double stitch. By putting your little finger into the yellow centre at the back when all is finished you can raise it very nicely to make it look more natural. After this you have nothing to do but to fasten the little white leaves together at the back, which is done by putting a double stitch into the lower part of the outside points of the braid, then make 3 chain stitches, and join to the next point ; this will be easily under- stood by looking at the design. 16 of these little stars sewn to- gether 3 points t03 of the next star, leaving 2 free between, form the cover for the cushion. There are three different ways to make this cushion. No. I — everybody knows how to make a simple cushion of pale blue satin, measuring 6i inches at each side ; thereon you stitch your daisy cover, and sur- round the whole by a nice lace frilling, put in each corner a bow of ribbon (i inch wide), of which each ought to appear a little different from the other, which is a great improvement to the whole cushion, as it takes off the straightness of it, and makes it look more artistic. No. 2 — make a foundation cushion of white lining of the same size as the former, but cut only the bottom cover 6i inches square; the top cover in this case must measure 9 inches ; this is gathered on each side, and sewn on the foundation cushion, looking rather baggy, and after having sewn on the bottom part, pin on your square of 16 daisies near the edge, and begin to pull out the blue satin through the opening between each star. A lace frilling and four little bows finish it nicely off. No. 3 — to make the cushion a different way, you only need 9 little daisies, which you line with a square of blue satin, but nothing of this lining may appear above the edges of each star. Make a founda- tion cushion as before, take a piece of satin of the size of a small handkerchief, and spread it out on your work-table, the cotton side towards you, lay your cushion straight upon it, then take the middle (A, B, C, D) of each side of the satin square, and tack it tightly on the top (M) of your cushion, then gather the satin straight across each corner, and stitch it on the cushion, cut off what lies inside the gathering ( H ) and which would make the daisies lie on unevenly, then fasten on your daisy square, but across the cushion, and finish it off with 4 bows at each side of your crochet work. In order to make a cover for the toilet table, follow the directions of the 1st cushion, make a square of 16 daisies, and surround it by a lace frilling. ■/ A \ B ^ M D H \^ C / SIMPLE WORK CASE. An exceedingly useful little work case, somewhat on the plan of a tobacco pouch, may be made thus: cut a piece of hoUand about 15 inches in length and S in width, round the corners at both ends. Lay on a pocket at each end rounded exactly to fit the first piece. There should be a space of iJj inches left in the middle between the two pockets, and the straight sides of the pockets next the middle should be bound with braid. For a handle cut a piece of holland 10 inches in length and \\ inches in breadth, bind it at each side and lay it across the middle of the case between the pockets. Tack it so that the ends come to the edge at each side of the case. Bind the case all round with red braid. It may then be ornamented with crewel work or feather stitch, according to fancy. This is a convenient little case to keep on one's knee when working, as the pockets help to keep balls from rolling about. When carrying work about in it put it into one pocket and slip that inside the other one, taking care to leave the handle free to carry it by. It requires 10 inches of holland and 2i yards of braid to make it. Macrame Work — Continued. (For 'S. 1 to 26, see Nos. 8, 9 and 11.) *^ ' " ' J' ' " ' <" |i Jl JIl'lBIIIHii No. 27. The Mos.«c A close and effective pattern, suitable for the centre insertion of deep pieces of work. Strings ij yards long and put on as fig. 4- With each 4 strings make a Solomon's knot all along, then leave 2 strings at the beginning, and with the 8 following do 2 knots, with the 4 centre strings do l knot, then with the first 4 strings do i knot. Hold the Sth in the left hand and knot the 7 first on to it down by the side of the Solomon's knot, do 2 bars. Leave this 223 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET now, and with the strings ii, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, and 22, make 3 Solomon's knots. Now, from the 13th to 20th do 2 knots, and finish with i knot between the last 2. Hold the 9th in right hand down by the side of the knots, and knot each of the 7 strings on to it twice, do 2 bars ; this forms a half diamond ; take the 4 centre strings, that is, 2 from each side, and make a Solomon's knot, then taking 3 more from each side, making 8, do 2 knots ; taking 2 more from each side, do 3 knots. Now leave 2 at each side and make 2 knots, and then i in the centre. Hold the ist string in right hand and knot 7 on to it, do 2 bars. Hold the i6th in left hand and do 2 bars. Do the same all along. Then with 8 strings make a knot. Repeat all along. Then take 4 strings from each of the sides and make a knot. Repeat all along Fig. 28. THE Rosebud. This is a charming pattern, and if worked in pretty coloured twine, say pink, and lined with crimson satin, would make a lovely design for wall pocket front, piano-cover, border, &c. Strings ij yards long, and 8 threads to a pattern. * Hold the ist in right hand, and knot 3 on to it, do 2 bars. Hold the 8th in left hand, and knot 3 on to it, do 3 bars. With the 4 centre threads do 3 Solomon's knots for raised picot as Figs. 20 and 21. Then finish with 2 leaves same as the 2 at the beginning to finish the star. Repeat all along. Then take the 2 strings at bottom of 4th leaf of ist star, and 2 strings at the corner of next star leaf, and make a raised picot. Repeat all along. Then repeat from *. For the fringe, tie the ist and 2nd 4 threads once. Then holding the 6 centre strings as leader with the string on each side, make a Solomon's knot. Pass the single threads through the knot at the back, and cut off level. Fig. 29. The Stiletto. 16 strings ij yards long, and put on as Fig. ;. The insertion is all worked in 4 threads to each pattern. * Take 4 threads. Hold the 1st in right hand, and work the three threads following, making a slanting bar as Fig. 7. Hold the same leader in left hand, and work a bar. Again hold it in right hand, and work a bar. Repeat with the 4 following threads. Then take the next 4 threads, and holding the ist in right hand, make a slanting bar. Do 4 bars under each other. Take the next 4 threads, hold the 4th in left hand, and work 4 slanting bars, and repeat from *, then put on a foundation line and knot each thread on to it twice. Now divide 224 the strings^ take 4 for the centre, and 14 each side. * Hold the 2nd and 3rd in right hand, and with the ist in left hand work 7 buttonhole stitches as Fig. 17. Then hold the 14th string in left hand, and knot 13 strings on to it twice, making a long bar, and bring under the 7 buttonhole stitches. Again, hold the 14th in left hand, and knot 12 threads on to it, making a second long bar. Repeat from * until you have 5 scallops. This brings the 2 last bars into the centre. Then with the 14 threads on the other side work them in the same manner, only the reverse way, to correspond. With the 4 in the centre make 2 strands of single chain as Fig. 15, with 33 stitches in each strand. Tie 28 threads securely at the back, and bring them all down level with the centre 4, and tie round to form tassel, and cut off, leaving 3 or 4 inch tassel. Fig. 30. Maltese Cross. This is an elegant design, and suitable for the front of wall pockets, &c. 24 strings, 2 yards long, and put on as Fig 5. The first row is worked in ovals, with raised picots in the centre of each. Take 8 threads, divide, hold the 4th in left hand and work a slanting bar. Hold 5th in right hand, and with the 3 next threads work a slanting bar. Then with the 4 centre threads make 3 Solomon's knots for raised picot. This done, work 2 more slanting bars to finish the oval. Do 5 more of these ovals for the ist row. Then holding the 17th string in right hand straight across the board under the ovals, knot 15 threads on to it, leaving 16 strings. Change the same leader into left hand, and knot 14 strings on to it again. Change it into right hand, and work 13 strings. Repeat this, always the same leader, and decrease i string on each row. Do 10 rows. Now come to the 8 strings left at ist oval. Hold the 5th in left hand and work a aJanting bar. Hold the 5th in right hand, and knot all the threads on to it, right into the centre, making it come just under the bars in the centre. Leave 24 strings for the other side. Come back again to the oval, and with the 4 centre threads make a picot as before, and finish with the 2 slanting bars. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, Do 2 more ovals and picots in a straight line under these last 2, making 4 straight down. Then holding the 9th in right hand, make a second long bar. With these 16 strings make 4 Solomon's knots. Then leaving 2 at each end make 3 knots, and 3 on the next row, leaving the 4 strings nearest the centre. Do 2 on the 4th row, 2 on the 5th, I on the 6th, and i on the 7th. Then holding the i6th in left hand, knot 15 on to it. Come again to the first 8 strings and work 2 slanting bars and picots. Then with the 24th in left hand knot 19 on to it. You will now see you have i slanting bar and i oval to finish the side, and the other side and bottom long bars to correspond. Then a foundation line, and knot each string on to it twice. Cut your ends off, leaving li inches. Part them with your large packing needle, and comb with a fine comb. Fig. 31. Serviette Ring. 32 strings, 2 yard long, put on as Fig. 5. Take 2 strings and make 6 single chain ; 2 following strings and do 4 single chain ; 2 following strings and do 2 single chain. Then hold the 8th in left hand and knot these 7 on to it. Do another bar under the first. Miss 2 threads. With the nth and 1 2th threads make 2 single chain ; with 13th and 14th, 4 chain; 15th and i6th, do 6 chain. Hold the 9th in right hand down by the side of single chain, and knot 7 on to it ; do 2 bars. You have now 4 bars. Takethe 8th and 9th strings, and make 10 single chain ; with 6th and 7th, 8 chain ; 4th and 5th, 6 chain ; loth and i ith, 8 chain ; 12th and 13th 6 chain ; 17th and i8th, 6 chain ; 19th and 20th, 4 chain ; 21st and 22nd, 2 chain. Hold the 24th in left hand, and knot 7 on to it ; 24th in left hand, and knot 1 5 on to it ; i6th in left hand, and knot 7 on to it ; 1st in right hand, and knot 7 on to it; ist again in right hand, and knot the 7 again, making 2 bars. Then with the ist and 2nd do 6 chain ; 3rd and 4th, 4 chain ; 5th and 6th, 2 chain. You must continue until you have 4 complete diamonds. Then put en a foundation line, and knot all the strings on to it. Then with 4 strings do 2 double chain, and repeat all along. These knots must be turned on the wrong side, stitched firmly, and cut off close. Now take a piece of stiff cardboard the size of work, and cover it with satin. The pattern is crimson. Join the inside and stitch the work on at the joining, and thread with narrow ribbon the colour of lining, to hide the joining. Fig. 32. The Coraline. A handsome, effective pattern. The pattern is in pink coloured twine, 32 strings, 3 yards long, put on the board as Fig 5. Do i row of Solomon's knots, 4 threads to a knot, as Fig. 18, making 16 knots. 2nd row— leave 2 strings at each end, and do 15 knots. 3rd row is of twists as Fig. 23. Secure the 2 threads as for Solomon's knots. Take the thread at left side, place it across the centre ones, leaving a loop at left side. Take the thread on right side, bring it across the end of left thread under the centre, and up through the loop at left side, and draw it up tight. Do 5 stitches in each twist, and 16 twists. Then ^o a row of 1 5 Solomon's knots, and then a row of 16 Solomon's knots. Now put on a foun- dation line, and knot each string on to it. 2nd insertion takes 16 strings to each pattern. Hold the Sth in left hand, and knot 7 on to it. Do 7 bars, decreasing one string in each bar, so that in the 7th bar you have only i string to knot. Then hold the 9th in right hand, and knot 7 on to it. Again hold the 9th, and knot 6 on to it, and so decrease, doing 7 bars as before. Now take the 4 centre threads and make a raised picot, then holding the Sth in left hand, work 7 bars, and holding the 9th in right hand, work 7 bars. Do 3 more of these patterns, and put on a foundation line. 3rd insertion is hke the ist of Solomon's knots and twists, then put on the last foundation line. The point or scallop is composed of ovals and squares, each made with 8 strings. Take the 8 first strings, hold the 4th in left hand, knot 3 on to it, * hold the 5 th in right hand, knot 3 on to it. Take the 4 centre threads and make a Solomon's 225 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. knot. Hold the ist in right hand, and knot 3 on to it, hold the 8th in left hand and knot 7 on to it, and repeat from *, making 2 ovals. Then for the squares take the next 8 threads. Hold the 5th in the left hand as leader, and knot the 4 first on to it, and proceed as directed in Fig. 13, having this square again; take the 5th string in left hand and work a 2nd square under the first, then do the ovals again, then the squares alternately to the end of row, making 8 ovals and 8 squares, on the next rows you decrease 8 strings by leaving 4 at each end. Always work between the patterns of former rows. Commence all the rows with an oval, and work them alter- nately ; then knot the fringe closely to resemble coral. Fig. 33. Ornamental Brush Cover. This is a very pretty and useful arrangement to cover a cloth or clothes brush. 36 strings i4 yards long, and put on as Fig. 3 shows ; then for the first insertion divide your strings into eights, and work 9 leaves like Fig. 8, then put on a foundation line. 2nd insertion — take 8 threads, divide, hold the 4th in left hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 5th in right hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 1st in right hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 8th in left hand, knot 7 on to it, hold the 5th in right hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 8th in left hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 1st in right hand, knot 3 on to it ; this makes 2 ovals ; repeat all round, making 18 ovals, and put on a foundation. The 3rd in- sertion is all of stars, 12 threads to each, divide, hold the 1st in right hand, knot 5 on to it, do 2 bars, 12th in left hand, do 2 bars, raised picots ot 3 Solomon's knots in the centre, and finish with 2 leaves ^of 2 bars each, work 6 of these stars ^^^^^^^^^^^_^^___^_ and put on a foundation line. Then do a row of ovals the same as 2nd insertion, only 3 ovals deep instead of 2 as in insertion, knot the fringe all round 2 together. The handle is all of ovals. 4 strings if yards long, 12 ovals finished at both ends with small tassels and stitched to the bag. The brush should be drawn out at the bottom and put in at the top, handle downwards. Fig. 34. The Royal. An elegant pattern, suitable for valances, cornices, mandes, &c. 20 strings 3 yards long, and put on as Fig. 5. The ist insertion is of ovals, 8 threads to each, hold the 4th in left hand, and knot 3 on to it, hold the 5th in right hand, knot 3 on to it, take centre 4 and make a Solomon's knot, hold the ist in right hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 8th in left hand, knot 3 on to it, this finishes the oval; do 5 of them, and put on a foundation line. Take 16 strings and work a star with raised picot same as shown in Fig. 10, miss 8 threads, and with the remaining 16 strings make another star, then for the centre divide the 8 threads, hold the 4th in left hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 5th in right hand, knot 3 on to it, make Solomon's knot in the centre, hold the ist in right hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 8th in left hand, knot 7 on to it, hold the 5th in right hand, knot 3 on to it, take 4 in the centre and make a raised picot of 4 Solomon's knots; hold the ist in right hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 8th in left hand, knot 7 on to it, hold the 5th in right hand ; knot 3 on to it, take in centre and make a Solomon's knot, hold the ist in right hand, knot 3 on to it, hold the 8th in left hand, knot 3 on toit, and put on a found ation line. Take the 8 first strings and make 2 ovals, I under the other, with Solomon's knots in the centre, take the 9th, loth, nth, 12th strings and make 2 strands of single chain as Fig. 15, 16 stitches in the ist strand, 18 in the 2nd. Take the 8 following threads, * hold the 2nd and 3rd in right hand, and with the 1st thread in left hand work 6 buttonhole stitches as Fig. 17, hold ihe 8th in left hand and knot 7 on to it ; do 2 bars ; repeat from* until you have 3 scallops and 6 bars, this brings us to the centre. Work the other side to correspond then turn the centre 226 piece up on to the wrong side and tie the strings very firmly, bring 2 of the strings through the hole at top of joining and make 9 single chain stitches, bring this to cov er the joining; now take ' ~~ 2 more strings, and with the 4 make 6 double chain, the 2 strings which served as leaders for the last bars on both sides ; make strands of single chain, 8 stitches, this leaves from the centre 8 strings, 4 each side ; divide and make 4 strands of single chain, 1 1 stitches in each. Now take the 1st string at beginning in right hand and knot 19 strings on to it; do this again, making 2 bars ; do this on both sides, then take 8 strings for centre, leaving 16 on each side. Take the ist 16, * hold the 2nd and 3rd in right hand, and with the ist in the left do 8 button- hole stitches; hold the i6th in left hand and knot the 15 on to it, hold the i6th in left hand and knot 14 on to it, and repeat from * until you have 8 scallops and 1 5 bars. This comes .to the centre. Work the other side to cor- respond, then with the 8 centre threads do 4 strands of single chain, 21 stitches in each strand ; then do a thick twist, 4 strings lor centre leader, and 2 each side; do~lo~ stitches, and having securely tied the strings at the joining bring all the threads down level and tied firmly round to form the tassel ; cut off, leaving .about 4 inches. Fig. 35. The Eclipse. 24 strings 2J yards long, and put on as Fig. 5. ist insertion is all of squares worked with 8 threads as shown in Fig. 13, there are 6 squares in the row, then put ■ on a founda- tion line. 2nd in- sertion — take 20 strings and divide into 3 parts, 4 for the centre and 8 each side, hold the 2nd and 3rd in right hand, and with the 1st in left hand, work 7 but- tonhole stitches, hold the 8th in left hand and knot 7 on to it, do 2 bars, make another scal- lop the same, then 3 buttonhole stitches, do the same 2 scallops with the other 8 threads, but worked the reverse way ; with the 4 in the centre make a twist as Fig, 23, do 18 THE 'FANCY WORK-BASKET. stitches, then miss 8 threads, and with the last 20 threads do another pattern same as this. Now with the 8 missed work a square, divide and work 2 twists of 12 stitches in each, cross the 16 threads at the back of the 2 patterns and put on a foundation hne. 3rd insertion is 6 squares, the same as the ist, and put on the last foundation line, divide your strings, 8 for the centre and 20 each side, * hold the 2nd and 3rd in right hand and with the I St in left hand work 8 buttonhole stitches, hold the 20th in left hand and knot 19 on to it, again hold the 20th in left hand and knot 18 on to it ; repeat from.* until you have 7 scallops and 14 bars. Work the other side to correspond, and tie the 40 strings finnly at the back, i from each side. Now take the 8 threads for centre, hold the 4th in left hand and knot 3 on to it, do 3 bars, hold the same leader in right hand, and knot the 3 again on to it, do 3 bars, hold the Jth in right hand, knot 3 on to it, do 3 bars, hold the same leader in left hand, and do 3 bars ; divide and work 2 twists of 27 stitches, each to come level with the bottom of joint, bring all the strings down from the back of joining, and tie firmly with the 8 in the centre for tassel; leave tassel about 3A inches long. Knitting. LADY'S SHETLAND BODICE. This neatly fitting bodice is pre-eminently suited to take the place of the flannel and chamois bodices so much worn by ladies. It can fully rival them in warmth, while, in the advantage of taking up no perceptible space, it far exceeds them. Nothing could be more simple than its construction, and the expense of the materials is small in the extreme. The grey undyed Shetland wool is preferred by many people to white, and is highly recommended by the medical profession on account of its hygienic properties, and it is less liable to shrink when washed. This bodice is so flexible it will fit any ordinary figure. Materials required : — 2 oz. of Shetland wool, 3 long bone knitting needles No. 7, and 2 needles either bone or steel No. II. 7 buttons with shanks. This bodice is knitted in plain or garter stitch, and the ist stitch of each row is always slipped. Cast on with double wool 98 stitches, knit 2 plain rows ; now use the wool single. 3rd row — knit 2 plain stitches, * make a stitch by throwing the wool forward ; knit 2 stitches together ; repeat from * to end of row, knitting the last 2 stitches plain. The 4th and every alternate row is knitted plain. 5th row — knit 1 1 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 20 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 11 plain stitches. 7th row — knit 12 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 22 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 12 plain stitches. 9th row — knit 13 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 24 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 13 plain stitches, nth row — knit 14 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 26 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 14 plain stitches. 13th row — knit 15 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 15 plain stitches. 15th row — knit 16 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 30 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit i5plain stitches. . i7throw^knit 17 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 32 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 17 plain stitches. 19th row — knit 18 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 34 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 18 plain stitches. 21st row — knit 19 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 36 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 19 plain stitches. 23rd row — knit 20 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 38 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 20 plain stitches. 25th row — knit 21 plain stitcl.j;s, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a st:tch, knit 40 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 2 1 plain stitches. 27th row — knit 22 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 42 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 22 plain stitches. 29th row — knit 23 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 44 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 23 plain stitches. 31st row— knit 24 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 46 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 24 plain stitches. 33rd row — knit 25 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 48 plain stitches, make, a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 25 plain stitches. 35th row — knit 26 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 50 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 26 plain stitches. 37th row — knit 27 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 52 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 27 plain stitches. 39th row — knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 54 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches. 41st row — knit 29 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 56 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 29 plain stitches. 43rd row — knit 30 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 58 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 30 plain stitches. 45th row — knit 31 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 60 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 31 plain stitches. 47th row— knit 32 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 62 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 32 plain stitches. 49th row — knit 33 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 64 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 28 plain stitches, make a stitch, kmt 33 plain stitches. 50th row —plain. There will now be 186 stitches on the needle. Knit 43 stitches, cast off 18 stitches loosely, thus * knit 2 stitches together, put the stitch just made back on to the left hand needle ; repeat from * 17 times more; knit 64 stitches, cast off 18 stitches in the same way as before, knit the remaining 43 stitches. Now for front — knit 43 stitches, take the 3rd needle, and knit these 43 stitches backwards and forwards for 60 rows, take off 15 stitches next to the frontf on to a piece of string, leave these, and knit the remaining stitclies backwards and forwards for 16 rows, purling the last stitch of each row; cast oft" these 28 stitches loosely in the same way as at the arm, holes ; knit the other front to correspond. For back — knit the 64 stitches of back, backwards and forwards for 30 rows, knit to within 3 stitches of the end of row, knit 2 stitches together, knit I plain stitch, repeat this last row 39 times'more. There will now be 24 stitches remaining ; raise the 8 loops at neck of fronts, next to the stitches left on the pieces of string. The stitches on the string are also taken up, and all are put on to the needle with the remaining stitches of the back, taking care to look that the shoulder part of the right front comes to the shoulder part of the right side of the back, and the left front to the left side of the back. There should be 70 stitches altogether now on the needle. Knit a plain row. Slip the 1st stitch, knit i plain stitch, * make ^ stitch, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * to end of row, knitting ihe last 2 stitches plain ; knit 2 plain rows, cast off in the same way as at the armholes, fasten off the wool ; sew the fronts to the back at shoulders, taking care not to draw the wool too tightly when sewing it. For sleeve — cast on 70 stitches, knit 20 plain rows, * slip the ist stitch, knit 2 stitches together, knit till within 3 stitches of end of row, knit 2 stitches together, knit i plain stitch; knit 5 plain rows ; repeat from * till only 40 stitches remain, knit on plain till there are 108 rows from beginning of sleeve, take the needles No. 11, * knit 2 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of row. Repeat the last row till there are 20 rows of the ribbing worked, cast off in the same way as before ; do not break oft' the wool, but work the follow- ing crochet edge with medium sized crochet needle, work 5 stitches of double crochet into the last stitch of the cast off row, * miss 2 of the cast off stitches, work 5 stitches of double crochet into the next stitch, repeat from * to end of row ; fasten off the wool. Work the 2nd sleeve the same, sew up the sleeves, and sew them into the bodice, putting the seam of sleeve to the centre of the 18 cast off stitches at armholes. For button holes— crochet a row of 51 treble stitches 227 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. down the right side of bodice from the string case at neck to the string case at waist. This row is worked on the inside of the bodice about an inch from the edge, working throvigh the raised lines of the knitting. Turn, work a double crochet stitch between 2 last treble stitches of last row, miss 3 treble stitches, * work 9 treble stitches into next loop, that is, between the trebles, miss 3 treble, work a double crochet stitch in the next loop, work a double crochet stitch in next loop ; repeat from * 6 times more, fasten off; put in the buttons on the left front of bodice about an inch from the edge, put the shanks through the knitting on the right side of the work, and fasten them by running a piece of narrow tape through the shanks on the wrong side. For cards — crochet cords in chain stitch with 4 ply of the wool, allow about 44 inches of cord for the waist, and 34 for the neck, run them through the holes of the string cases, and finish them off with small tassels. NUN'S PATTERN FOR SHAWL OR ANTIMACASSAR. Cast on as many stitches as re- quired, allowing 8 stitches to a pattern, 4 plain rows- to begin and end with, and 4 plain stilches at the beginning and end of every row for an edge. 1st row — * make i, knit I, make i, knit 2, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, and repeat from *. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — * make i, knit 3, make i, knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit I, and repeat from *. 4th row — purl. 5th row — * make i, knit 5, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, and repeat from *. 6th row— purl ; repeat from ist row. COSTUME, For Child of 5 Years old. This most stylish costume is knitted in Andalusian wool on long ivory knitting needles No. 8. They should have no tops and be pointed at both ends. It is edged in some parts with crochet, to work which a fine bone crochet hook is required. The model is worked in white relieved with a little pink; navy blue wool instead of white relieved with a good crimson would look extremely well, and be most durable. Materials required, | lb. of white and i lb. pink Andalusian wool, 3 doz. pink buttons ot small size. There are three distinct patterns of knitting in the costume. The first pattern we will call Kilting. It is worked thus. Cast on 9 stitches for each pattern, ist row — * knit 8, purl i, repeat from *. 2nd row — * knit 2, purl 7, repeat from *. 3rd row — * knit 6, purl 3, repeat from *. 4th row — * knit 4, purl 5, repeat from *. 5th row — * knit 4, purl 5, repeat from *. 6th row—* knit 6, purl 3, repeat from *. 7th row — *knit 2, purl 7, repeat from *. 8th row — * knit 8, purl I, repeat from *. This completes one pattern in kilting. The 2nd pattern referred to above is to be called Fluting. Cast on any number of stitches required with pink wool. * ist row — plain. 2nd row — purl. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. 7th row — purl. Now join on white wool. 8th row — plain. 9th row — purl. Repeat 8th and 9th rows twice more. Jom on pink wool. 14th row — plain. Repeat from * until the required length is worked. Cast off. The third pattern is to be called Broken Ribbing. Cast on as many stitches as are required, ist, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows — knit I, purl I alternately as in common ribbing. 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th rows — purl I, knit i alternately, making the purled stitches come above the knitted stitches, and the knitted stitches come above the purled stitches ; repeat these 8 rows until the required length is worked. Cast off. For flounce, cast on 297 stitches with white wool. * Knit 7 rows of kilting, join on the pink wool and knit 228 the 8th row of ist pattern and 7 rows of the 2nd pattern. Join on white wool again, knit the 8th row of the 2nd pattern ; repeat from * Knit 7 more patterns all in white wool, making 11 patterns al- together from the bottom of the flounce. Cast. off. Cast on 68 stitches in pink wool. Work loj patterns of fluting exactly as directed above, ending with pink. Cast off. Sew the edge of fluting where it was cast on to the short edge of flounce. Sew the . other two edges also. Finish the bottom of the flounce with the following crochet edging, worked with a fine bone crochet hook in white wool. * I double into the first stitch of the first pattern of kilting, 5 treble into the centre stitch and i double into the last stitch of the same pattern; repeat from * all along the bottom of the kilting. Work in the same way across the bottom of the flut- iiig in the front of the flounce. The 5 treble stitches are worked into the centre stitch of the white flutes and the 2 double stitches into the centre of the pink flutes. The flounce of the costume is thus completed. The back, half fronts, sidepieces and sleeves of the knitted bodice are to be worked next. For back. Cast on 90 stitches with white wool. The whole of the bodice, including back, front, sidepieces and sleeves, is knitted in broken ribbing. The only exception is the vent up first half of the back, which is worked in garter stitch. Knit 12 rows on the 90 stitches just cast on. 13th row — knit 31 stitches, knit 2 together 14 times, knit 31 stitches, leaving 76 stitches. Knit 6 more rows in the pattern. 20th row — knit 75 stitches, knit the last stitch without taking it off the 2nd needle (that in the right hand) through the st-itch again and knit the loop as a stitch, thus increasing i stitch. 2 1 st row — knit 38 stitches, cast on 6 stitches for the vent, which is always knit in plain garter stitch. There aie now 44 stitches on the needle. Only these will be worked on at present. Put the 38 remaining stitches on a 3rd needle until they are required for the 2nd half of the back. Work 6 moi e rows. 28th row — knit till i stitch remains, make i as in the 2olh row. * Work 7 more rows. 36th row — same as 28th row. Repeat from * 5 times more. Work 3 rows. 8oth row — knit till 2 remain, knit 2 together. 8ist row — knit. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Work 16 rows. 102nd row — same as 28th row. 103rd row — knit. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. 108th row — same as 80th row. 109th row — knit 2 together, knit to end of row. Repeat these 2 last rows 5 times more. 120th row — should begin at the vent. Cast off 14 stitches, knit till 2 remain, knit 2 together. 12 1st row — knit 2 together, knit till 2 remain, knit 2 together. Repeat this row until all the stitches are worked off. Break off the wool. For 2nd half of back, join on the white wool at the edge farthest away from the vent. Knit i, make I, knit 37 in the pattern. There is no garter stitch at this edge of the vent. Knit 3 rows, making 23rowsfromthebeginningoftheback. 24throw — knit3,continuingthe pattern, put the wool over the needle to form a buttonhole, knit 2 together, finish the row ; knit 3 more rows. 28th row — * same as 28th row of ist half of the back, knit 3 more rows. 32nd row— same as 24th row, knit 3 more rows ; repeat from * 5 times more. 76th row — same as 28th row, knit 3 more rows. 8oth row — knit 3, put the wool over the needle to foiin a buttonhole, knit 2 together, knit till 2 remain, knit 2 together. 8i6t row— knit. 82nd row — THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. knit till 2 remain, knit 2 together. 83rd row— knit. 84th row- same as 82nd row, knit 3 more rows. 88th row— same as 24th row, knit 7 more rows. 96th row — same as 24th row, knit 5 more rows. 102nd row — should begin at the edge with button holes, same as 28th row. 103rd row— knit. 104th row — same as 80th row. 105th row— knit. io6th row— same as 28th row. 107th row — knit. io8th row — * same as 82nd row. 109th row — knit 2 together, finish the row ; repeat from * once more. n2th row — same asSoth row. 113th row— same as 109th row; repeat loSth and 109th rows three times more. 120th row — should begin at the edge with the buttonholes ; cast off 8 stitches, knit till 2 remain, knit 2 together. I21st row — knit 2 together, knit till 2 remain, knit 2 together ; repeat this row until all the stitches are worked off; break off the wool. For half of front — cast on 18 stitches with white wool, knit in broken ribbing, ist row— knit 18, making I stitch as in 28th row of back. 2nd row — knit, repeat these 2 rows s times more, knit without increasing until there are 19 rows worked from the beginning. 20th row — * knit till i stitch remains, make I, knit 7 more rows ; repeat from * 6 times more. 76th row — same as 20th row, knit 3 more rows. 8oth row — * knit till 2 stitches remain, knit 2 together. 8ist row— knit, repeat from * twice more, work 16 more rows. 102nd row — * same as 20th row. 103rd row — knit, repeat from * twice more. io8th row — should begin at the straight edge of half front,*, knit 2 together, knit to end of row, make i. 109th row — knit till 2 remain, knit 2 together, repeat from *four times more. n8th and 119th rows — knft. 120th row — same as 108th row, cast off; knit the second half front in the same way. For sidepiece — cast on 56 stitches in white, work in broken ribbing, knit 3 rows. 4th row — * knit 2 together, knit till 2 stitches remain, knit 2 together, knit ; more rows without decreas- ing ; repeat from * twelve times more ; cast off, make the second piece in the same way. For the sleeve — work in broken ribbing, cast on 10 stitches with white wool, ist row — * knit i, purl i ; repeat from * 4 times, cast on 2 stitches. 2nd row — * knit I, purl I ; repeat from * 5 times, cast on 2 stitches, 3rd row — * knit I, purl I ; repeat from * 6 times. 4th row — * knit i, purl i ; repeat from* 7 times. 5th row — * purl I, knit i ; repeat from * 8 times. 6th row — * purl I, knit I ; repeat from 9* times. 7th row — * purl I, knit I ; repeat from * lo times. 8th row — * purl I, knit i ; repeat from * 1 1 times. This completes 1 pattern of broken ribbing. Work another pattern, 8 rows, casting on 2 stitches at the end of each row, as in the pattern just completed, cast on 22 more stitches ; there should now be 64 stitches on the needle. 17th row — * knit I, purl I ; repeat from *. l8th and 19th rows — same as 17th row. 2oth row — knit 2 together, * knit i, purl 1 ; repeat from * till 2 stitches remain, knit 2 together ; repeat from 17th row until there are only 50 stitches remaining on the needle; work 5 more patterns, 40 rows, without any decrease. Cast off 8 stitches, finish row. Work 3 more rows the same as the last ; cast off the remaining stitches. Make the second sleeve in the same way. For the plastron or waistcoat front — cast on 80 stitches with pmk wool, work 4 rows plain garter stitch. Work four and a half patterns of fluting, beginning and ending with pink wool as in the front breadth of the flounce ; work 4 rows of garter stitch with pink wool ; cast off. Crochet across the top and bottom of the waistcoat with white wool, working the edging that was worked round the bottom edge of the flounce. Before joining the parts of the bodice togetlier, cut off their pattern in white sateen or calico for alining ; | yard of material will be required for a lining without sleeves. If sleeves are preferred, more will be necessary. Cut the front in one piece, by using double material. The front is to be two inches wider (when doubled) than the woollen pattern, to allow for the plastron. Allow one inch round the bottom and up the back of this bodice for a hem ; sew up the seams and down the hems at the back, which should be in two pieces, lap one back over the other for the width of the hem, for two inches from the bottom ; finish the bottom with a hem, and the neck with a false hem made of a bias strip of the material. If there are no sleeves the armholes should also have a bias false hem. Close the back with 3 flat buttons and holes ; hooks and eyes may be used, but the former are much neater and more secure. They also wash better. The flounce is now to be joined to the bottom edge of this little bodice; join the centre of the fluted breadth of the flounce to the middle of the front of bodice; measure 2i inches from the middle of the front, and there join the edge of fluted breadth; join the second edge at an equal distance from the middle of the front, and fasten the breadth in its place by sewing across the top firmly. Fasten on the rest of the flounce in the same way, making the patterns to overlap as in ordinary kilting. If the little costume is being made for a particular child, it is better to tack the flounce to the bodice, and to try it on before finally sewing it. Any alteration necessary in the size of the bodice or in the length of the skirt can then be made without much trouble. The plastion or waistcoat is now to be sewn down the front of the calico bodice. Gather it in to the width of two inches at top, just below the crochet edging. Only the pink flutes should be thrown up on the right side at the gathers. Sew these gathers to the neck, exactly in the middle of the front; join each corner of the bottom of waistcoat to the top of the fluted breadth of the flounce, half an inch below where it is sewn to the bodice. The waistcoat should here measure four inches across; sew up each side of it from the waist to the neck, sloping it gradually from four to two inches in width. This completes the underskirt of the costume. Sew the pieces of the knitted jacket together on the wrong side ; sew up the seam in each sleeve. This seam goes at the back of the sleeve, exactly with the back side seam of the bodice. It is much easier to sew in the sleeve if a double thread of wool is run in and out along the entire top edge of the sleeve, as for gathering, with a rug needle, and drawn in to the width of II inches and securely fastened off. Work round the armhole in exactly the same way, then sew in the sleeve, holding it next you when working and taking a very narrow seam, put a little extra fulness at the top of the arm, at the shoulder. For the border of jacket — work in pink wool with a fine bone crochet-hook. Begin at the back of the neck with the right side of the work towards you. Join on pink wool at the extreme top of the vent, work 2 chain stitches, miss 2 stitches along the neck, * put the wool over the needle ; put the needle through both loops of the next stitch ; draw the wool through; repeat from * twice more, working into the same stitch as before. There are now 6 loops on the needle, draw the wool through these 6 loops, make i chain stitch. This com- pletes I tuft ; miss 2 stitches ; repeat from first * to the end of neck; increase at the corner by working 2 tufts into i stitch twice, work I tuft into every 4th row down the ist half of front; increase at the comer, work round the bottom of the jacket, up the second half ot the front and along the neck. Remember to increase at each comer as before ; break and fasten off the wool. 2nd row (in pink) — join the wool on top of the ist tuft of ist row ; work 2 chain, work I tuft between first and second tuft of ist row ; work thus all along the second row, increasing at the 4 corners as before ; break and fasten off the wool. 3rd row (in pink) — ^join on the wool at the corner, at the bottom of left front, work as in the second row to the opposite comer of front ; break and fasten off the wool. 4th row (in white) — join on wool at the ist tuft of second row, \vith a double stitch, * work 5 treble stitches in top of next tuft, I double on top of next tuft ; repeat from * all along the pink border ; fasten off. Work 3 rows of tufts in pink, and the white edging round each cuff ; fasten off. Sew the edge of each front of the jacket (where the ist row of tufts is worked) to the edge of the plastron on the underskirt of the costume ; sew 1 1 buttons do\\'n each side of the jacket, where this seam was made ; catch the stitches by which the buttons .are sewn on through the jacket, plastron, and calico bodice so as to keep the different parts in their right places. Sew 13 buttons down the back of the jacket to correspond to the holes made in the knitting. The top button is to fasten in the ist row of the tufted border. Join the row with the decreasings, below the vent in the back of the jacket, to the calico bodice, just above where. the flounce is joined on. To do this, sew through the knittea and calico bodices for about 2 inches along the decreased row referred to, in the middle of the back. This prevents the knitted jacket from working up ; the sewing will be hidden by the sash, which is now to be worked and sewed on. For sash — cast on 81 stitches with white wool. The sash is worked in kilting ; it is formed in 2 pieces, viz., two ends and a keeper. For the end work exactly as for the flounce, until there are 10 patterns completed. Next row — work two together all across ; cast off. Work the 2nd end in the same way ; finish both by working the same crochet edging across the bottom as was used for the flounce and plastron. For keeper — cast on 54 stitches and work 10 patterns of kilting all in white ; cast off. Gather the top of each end tightly and strongly, then sew the, two together where they are gathered. Gather the beginning and end of the keeper in the same way, and join them together very strongly. Draw one end of the sash through the keeper until the gathers in the sash are hidden by it. Sew the keeper in its place ; now sew the sash on the back of the costume. The bottom of the sash ends should meet the second pink stripe in the flounce, but should not cover it. The costume is now complete, and will fully repay the trouble which has been expended upon it. When it becomes soiled it is much wiser to send it to a pro- fessional cleaner than to risk its being shrunk and discoloured by an ordinary laundress. If wished it will, of course, dye most beautifully to any colour darker than pink. It will then re-appear as good as new, and be an invaluable ftock for ordinary wear at all I seasons. 229 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. WINDOW CURTAINS. Tulip Pattern. Materials required for i pair : — i lb of Strutt's knitting cotton No. 20, pins medium size, ij lb. of cotton would be required for very long ones. Cast on 24 stitches for each pattern, g patterns are a good width, that is 2 16 stitches, and 6 for each edge, making 228 altogether ; if wanted wider, cast on more patterns, 24 stitches for each ; or if narrower, take off 24 stitches for each pattern, ist row — knit 5 stitches at the selvedge, then knit 2 together, knit 8, make i, knit 4, make i, knit 8, knit 2 together ; repeatto theend oftherow; knit the last 6 stitches plain. 2nd row — knit the ist 6 stitches plain, purl all the rest, and knit the last 6 stitches plain, knit the 1st and last 6 stitches plain in every row. 3rd row — knit 2 together, knit 7, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 7, knit 2 together, repeat. 4th row — sime as 2nd. 5th row— knit 2 together, knit 6, make i, knit i, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit I, mike I, knit 6, knit 2 together ; repeat to the end of row. 6th row— same as 2nd. 7th row— knit 2 together, knit 5, make i, knit I, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit I, make i, knit 5, knit 2 together, repeat. 8th row — same as 2nd. 9th row— knit 2 together, knit 4, make i, knit i, make i, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit i, make i, knit 4, knit 2 together, repeat. loth row — same as 2nd. nth row — knit 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit i, make i, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 4, make i, knit i, make i, knit 3, knit 2 together, repeat. 12th row— same as 2nd. 13th row— knit 2 together, knit 2, make l, knit I, make I, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit S, make i, knit I, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, repeat. 14th row — same as 2nd. 15th row — knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit i, make i, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 6, make i, knit I, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, repeat. i6th row— same as 2nd. 17th row — knit 2 together, make I, knit i, make i, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 7, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together; repeat to the end of row. i8th row — same as 2nd. Repeat from ist row until long enough. Diamond Scallop for Border to Tulip Pattern. Cast on 14 stitches, ist row— knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, m.ake i, knit i. 2nd row— knit II, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 3rd row— knit 3, make l, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. 4th row— knit 12, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 5th row— knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. 6th row — knit 13, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, 7th row— knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. 8th row— knit 14, make i, knit 2 I 230 together, knit 2. 9th row— knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i. loth row — knit 15, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. nth row — knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit i. 1 2th row — knit 16, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 13th row — knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 6, make I, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. 14th row — knit 17, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 15th row — knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit 7, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. i6th row — knit 18, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 17th row — knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 17. i8th row — cast off 8 stitches loosely, knit to the last 4 stitches, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2 Crochet. BEADED MAT. The beads must be all threaded upon the cotton first. Materials required, fine crochet cotton and small glass beads, garnet or blue 2 oz. 1st row— 12 chain, unite. 2nd row— 24 double crochet into the ring with a bead on every other stitch. 3rd row — 24 double into the 24 of previous row, putting one bead on every other stitch. 4th row— I double crochet into a stitch between beads, 6 chain, * turn, double crochet into Sth and 4th chain, i half treble into next chain, I treble into next chain, i treble into last chain, now miss the stitch which has the bead, and double crochet into the next between beads, 6 chain, repeat from * until there are in all 12 points round. 5th row — double on end of a point, 5 chain, double crochet on next point, repeat this all round, there should be 12 lots of chain in all. 6th row — * 1 double crochet into double crochet upon the end of a point, then double crochet into each of the 5 chain of previous row, putting a bead on each stitch; repeat from IriE I'ANCV WORK-BASKET. * all round. 7th row— exactly like the last, taking caie to keep the double crochet without bead over the same in previous row. 8th row— 5 double on those of previous row, putting bead on each stitch, I chain between the groups of beads all round, the i chain should be over the double crochet without beads. 9th row-5 double with beads on those in previous row, and 2 chain between each group. loth row — 5 double with beads and 3 chain between, nth row— 5 double with beads and 4 chain between. I2tli row— 5 double with beads and 5 chain. 13th row— 5 double with beads and 6 chain between. 14th row— exactly like the 13th. 15th row — 5 double with beads and 7 chain. l6th row— 5 double with beads and S chain. 17th row— 5 double with beads and 9 chain. iSth row— 5 double with beads and 10 chain. 19th row— 5 double with beads and 11 chain. 20th row— 5 double with beads and 12 chain. 2ist row— * 12 double into the 12 chain of previous row, with beads on each stitch, there will be 11 beads (this row begins the border of the mat), 3 chain, then work 2 treble with bead on each into centre stitch of the 5 beaded stitches of previous row, 3 chain, 2 more treble, bead on each, worked into the same place, 3 chain, and repeat from * all round. 22nd row — * miss the hrst of the 12 double and work in the second and following 9, putting bead on each, 9 in all for each group, 3 chain, i treble with bead under centre 3 chain of previous row, 3''fchain, i treble with bead into same place, 3 chain, i treble and bead in same place, 3 chain, and I treble with bead into same place (should be 4 treble in all), 3 chain, repeat from * all round. 23rd row — * miss tirst of the 10 double in previous row, and work into second and 7 following, i double with bead on each, 7 beads in each group, 4 chain and one treble with bead on under the and lot of 3 chain in previous row, 3 chain, i treble with bead into same place, i treble with bead into next 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble with bead into same place, i treble with bead under next 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble Avith bead into same place, 4 chain, repeat from *. 24th row — *miss first of 8 double, work 6 with bead on each (5 beads), 4 chain, i treble with bead under 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble with bead into same place, 3 chain, i treble with bead into next 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble with bead into same place, 3 chain, i treble with bead into next 3 chain, 3 chain, I treble with bead into same place, 4 chain and repeat from *. 25th row — *miss first of 6 double of previous row, and work 4 double with beads (3 beads) 4 chain, i treble with bead under ist 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble with bead in same place, 3 chain, 1 treble with bead under the next 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble with bead, into same place, 3 chain, i treble with bead under next 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble with bead into same place, 3 chain, i treble with bead under next 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble with bead into same place, 3 chain, i treble with bead into next 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble with bead into same place, 4 chain, repeat from *. 26th row — * miss 1st double of 4 in previous row, and work 2 double with bead, 4 chain, 2 treble with bead on each under ist of 3 chain, 3 chain, with bead on each chain, 2 treble with beads into same place, 2 treble with bead on each under next 3 chain, 3 chain with bead on each, 2 treble with bead on each into same place, 2 treble with bead on each under next 3 chain, 3 chain with bead on each, 2 treble with bead on each into same place, 2 treble with bead on each under ne.xt 3 chain, 3 chain with bead on each, 2 treble with bead on each into same place, 2 treble with one bead on each under next 3 chain, 3 chain with bead on each, 2 treble with bead on each into same place, 4 chain and repeat from *. In working this the beads should fall on the outside, the plain side being next the worker, and it be must worked very lightly to look nice. CANADIAN FASCINATOR. This elegant little evening wrap is vei^ simply made. Materials required : — quarter of a pound of white Shetland wool anda wooden hook. No. 7, Reigo's Bell gauge. Make a chain of 4, unite into a round. Ist row— 6 long treble into the ring. 2nd row — turn with 4 chain, 6 long treble between the ist and 2nd treble of last row, I double between the 3rd and 4th, 6 long treble between 5th and 6th. 3rd row — turn with 4 chain, 6 long treble between the ist and 2nd trebles, i double between the 3rd and 4th, 6 long treble over the double stitch of last row, I double in middle of next shell, 6 long treble between the last treble and the 3 chain. Every row is like the 3rd row, that is increasing at the beginning and end by working between the first 2 and last 2 stitches, working shells over the doubles and a double into the centre of every shell ; repeat the 3rd row 26 times more; you should have 29 shells. The corner where you commenced is to go on the head. For the border, 3 double crochet into a loop of 3 chain, 12 double long treble (wool 3 times round needle) into the same, 3 double into the same; repeat this into loop of every shell all round. When you come to the widest part, work into the centre of shells. 2nd row — 3 double crochet between 2 first stitches of last row, 3 chain, 3 double between next 2 stitches ; repeat all round. Make a rosette tor the top by making 4 chain and uniting ; 6 long treble with 3 chain between into the ring. Put the ist row of border into every loop of 3 chain, 2nd row same as 2nd row of border, sew on the top or narrowest part of the fascinator. A bow of ribbon may be sub- stituted, but the rosette is rather the prettiest. BALL-HOLDER. A useful little present for any lady who likes to knit or crochet out of Soors. The size of this little case is about 5 inches round ; it is worked in pale blue or any coloured silk twist in 2 separate halves. Make 8 chain stitches, to form the centre ring, ist row — 22 trebles into the ring. 2nd row — 3 chain, miss a treble, i treble into next, repeat 1 1 times. 3rd row — 3 trebles into 3 chain of last row, 4 chain, repeat all round. 4th row — 2 treble, 5 chain, 2 treble into each of the 4 chain of last row. 5th, 6th and 7th rows — like the 4th. 8th row — I double in- to the 4 chain of last row, 8 chain, repeat all round. 9th row — double into every l...^.,. ,„^ ,„„ halves are laced together by a gold thread, after the ball of wool has been put mside. One and a half yard of ribbon, i inch wide, (old-gold satm), forms 2 pretty bows, and a loop by which it is suspended from the arm, or a big hook is fastened behind the top bow to let It hang down from the belt. STRING BAG. This is similar to one alreadv described in No. 4 of the Fancy Work-Basket, but is rather more elaborate; therefore a more detailed description is given. Two balls of coloured crochet cotton will make two bags; pink and brown are pretty mixtures, also two 231 stitch. The t«-o THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. shades of brown look very well. Make a chain of 8 with the pink cotton, join in a circle and work 24 long or treble in it. 2nd round — dark cotton, * 5 chain, miss 3 long of last row, i long in next, repeat from *. 3rd round — ^work 6 long in every space made by the 5 chain of last round. 4th round— 3 long, 3 chain, * miss i long, 3 long, repeat from *. 5th round— like the 4th. 6th round — all long worked in the light shade of cotton. 7th round— join the dark cot- ton, * 5 chain, miss 3 long of last row, 3 double crochet, repeat from *. 8th round — 3 long, * 2 chain, i double crochet in the middle of the 5 chain of last round, 2 chain, 3 long, repeat from *. 9th and loth rounds— like the 8th. nth round—* 3 double crochet on the top of the 3 long of last round, 5 chain, repeat from *. 1 2th round— all double crochet in the light cotton. 13th round- all long. 14th round-all double crochet. 15th, i6th, 17th, i8th rounds— like the 7th, 8th, 9th and loth rounds, in dark cotton. 19th round— all long in light cotton. 20th round— 5 chain, miss 5 long, 3 long, repeat; this round is worked with the dark cotton. 21st round —like the 20th. 22nd round—* i long in the middle of the 3 long of last row, 3 chain, I long in the middle of the 5 chain of the last round, 3 chain, repeat from *. 23rd round— 5 chain, i double cro- chet between the long of last round, repeat. 24th round — join the light cotton, 5 long in the 5 chain of the last round, i double crochet in the next space, 5 long in the next 5 chain, repeat. Run a rib- bon in the holes made by the 22nd round, put in a ball of string and tie it up tightly. The end of string may be drawn through either the hole at the top or at the bottom, according to whether the ball is to be hung up or stood on a table. CASE FOR CROCHET NEEDLE. This useful article I consists of a cork I with a crochet cover of shaded silk. Crochet a round of double stitches ; ^^^ make 2 chain stitches, into the first put 4 double stitches, increase every other stitch till it covers the top or broader part of the cork, then go on, without increasing, until the last few rounds, where you decrease twice or three times, to make it a tighter fit. As soon as it covers the cork, push it in and put a little tassel of the same coloured silk at the top. LACE COLLAR. Shamrock and Leaf Pattern. This pattern is extremely effective for tacking in the dress and falling over, or for little boys' collars, in which case it is made deeper. Use fine cream or white cotton. 1st row— commence with 12 chain, join in a round in the 6th stitch from needle, 4 chain and I treble 5 times in the loop thus formed. Then work i double and 6 treble into each of the ist 2 loops of 4 chain, i double, 3 treble in the 3rd, which will form half the shamrock, * 9 chain, join in a round in the 6th stitch from needle, 4 chain, i treble 5 times in the hole thus made, i double, 6 treble in the ist 2 loops of 4 chain, I double, 3 treble in the 3rd, which will form half of 2nd shamrock ; repeat from * 3 times more, but in the last work 6 trebles in all the 4 chain loops, ** 3 double in the 3 chain that divides the shamrocks, * 3 more treble in the last hole of 4th shamrock, 6 treble in the next 2 holes, repeat from **; when you get to the las« shamrock work 6 double crochet in the 6 cham, break off. For the leaf, make S chain, i treble in the ist stitch, * turn, 5 chain, i treble in the hole thus formed ; turn and repeat from * until you have 20 holes ; turn and work 4 treble, i double into the last hole, **, I double, 3 treble mto next hole, join it to the 3rd of the 4th set of 6 treble of the last sham- 232 rock, 3 more trebles in the same hole, * 3 treble in the next hole, join it to the 3rd of the next 6 treble of the same shamrock, 3 more trebles in the same hole, 4 treble in each of the next 2 holes, repeat from ** 4 times more ; when you get to the last hole, work 14 double crochet. For the opposite side of the holes work * 6 trebles in the 2 ist holes, 4 treble in the next 2, repeat from * until you get to the last hole, when you only work 4 treble. Go on in this way, putting a row of leaves each side of a row of shamrocks, joining them at the 2 first and 2 last leaves, till you have 19 rows of shamrocks and 20 rows of leaves, which completes collar. For the neck. Put your needle in last of the 4 treble, work 4 chain I treble into the 1st stitch of the next 4 treble, 4 chain, i treble in 4th stitch of the same 4 treble, 3 chain, wind the cotton round the needle 3 times in the next treble to make a long stitch, 3 chain, cotton round the needle 3 times in the next 3rd stitch, 3 chain, over the needle 3 times in the next treble, 2 chain over the needle twice in the next treble, 2 chain over the needle twice in the next treble, * 3 chain, over the needle 3 times in the next treble, 3 chain, over the needle 3 times in the next 3rd stitch, 3 chain, over the needle 3 times in the next treble, 2 chain, over the needle twice in the next treble, 2 chain, over the needle twice in the next ; repeat from * until you get to the last 2 holes, when you make 4 chain instead of 3, as the beginning. Finish the neck with 2 double crochet in every hole. BABY'S SLIPPER WITH ANKLE STRAP. This pretty little slipper is made with Andalusian wool, ivory and coral. First procure a pair of small socks, fleecy on one side, 5 inches long, for the soles. With ivory wool, make lochain, this allows i to turn ; turn and work 9 dou- ble crochet ; 1 chain, turn, double crochet backwards and forwards for 12 rows; increase i stitch in every row in the very centre, and always work into the back par^ of stitch ; then_i row ' ' " I chain, turn, m tills luw mi^i^aov^ 1 julv,*., «...«. . . • ., .*• ^ 7 stitches each, in all 8 rows of 7 stitches ; l cham, urn '« tte rpw, decrease i stitch and work i2 rows of 6 stitches, always making i chain to turn; this forms the body of slipper and must be joined neatly to the other side of front of slipper. ISowget cora woo^ double crochet all round the top of slipper, increasing i sWch m centre point of front. 2nd row -decrease i stitch m each s'^e of front just at corners where side of slipper begins, and increase I stitch in centre of front. 3rd and 4th rows- like 'he 2nd. ^5* row —double crochet all round with ivory wool; now take coral wool and make 42 chain, turn and work double crochet down the chain I chain, turn down the other side of chain, ^^ork 2 double croche into chain, 2 chain, miss 2 stitches, double crochet to the end ot chain and fasten off neatiy; stitch a button of f'^e *« fi' *^ button-hole left at other end of strap, sew .the I'ttlestrap firmly across outside back of heel. Make sm^U daisy for front ornament this can be done by fixing 4 strong pins m the table so +, wind «^ooi on them as shown and tie across the centre each way tightly, then cut the ends and roll in the hand and sew on shpper. INFANT'S SUMMER JACKET IN FRENCH TRICOT STITCH. Materials required: i oz. of white Shetland wool and a very small quantity of scarlet, a long tricot crochet needle. Make a chain of 40 stitches and pick up the stitches as for ordinary tncot, worK- ing back in the usual way. Next row and all succeeding rows- pick up the perpendicular stitch at the back, instead of the usual one at the front. This makes a very pretty fancy stitch, quite different to the common tricot. Pick up all the stitches on to ttie needle, and work back in the usual way. Increase one at the De- ginning of every row, by picking up an extra stitch between the ist and 2nd stitches. All the increasings and decreasmgs are done at the beginning of the rows, the other end being kept quite straight and plain. When you have increased to 50 stitches, decrease at the beginning of each row, by taking the 2nd and 3rd stitches to- gether? till you have 40 stitches again. Then slipstitch along the ist 12 stitches (which you now do not work) and work on the other 28 stitches for 4 rows, for under the arin. Then make 12 cham to correspond to the 12 stitches left unworked, and work f stitches, increasing every row till you have 50 stitches. Work 20 rows without increasing. Then decrease every row to 40 stitches, snp- THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. stitch along the ist 12 stitches as before, work 4 rows for under the 2nd arm, make 12 chain, increase every row to 50 stitches, then decrease every row to 40 stitches. Make i row of sHpstitch finish. For the sleeves — make 40 chain, and work 20 rows straight with I row of slipstitch to finish. Sew the shoulders together, and the sleeves into the armholes. Border in crazy stitch — I single crochet, 3 chain, 3 treble all into the same stitch, miss 3. 2nd row — same as the ist, working into the single stitch ; repeat the 2nd row once more with white and once with scarlet. Do the same round the sleeves. Add a cord and tassel, in scarlet. BONNET IN CROCHET AND JET. Materials : 12 reels of buttonhole twist, I do. of black binding wire, 10 bunches cut beads, fine steel hook, li yards Brussels net (light make), | do. stiff net, Paris net honnet shape. First make all the rounds and leaves, 17 of the former and 27 of the latter are required, i crescent piece for centre of crown and piece for head band. To make small round-thread 5 rows beads on to a reel of twist (each reel must have 5 rows threaded on to it before you begin to use it), make a chain of 8, join it round with a single stitch. 1st round — 4 chain, working 3 beads into 4th, I treble, i chain, i treble 9 times into circle formed by the 8 chain; each i chain must have 3 beads worked into it, I single into 3rd of 4 chain you began the " round with. 2nd round — 4 chain, I treble into ist hole of preceding round, 1 chain, i treble hoice into each of the other 8 holes, I single into 3rd of 4 chain. 3rd round— same as ist. Leaf— -make a chain of 70 (for the smallest leaf), now take a piece of the binding wire 2 inches longer than the chain, 2 double crochet, I chain (working 3 beads into it), miss I, 2 double crochet, continue to end of chain (the wire must be worked wider the double crochet in the same way as cord is worked in for mats, &c.), now bend it to the shape of a leaf. All the leaves are made in the same manner, merely increasing the number of chain according to size. Make 4 of the above size. 2nd size — (of which you will require 13) 100 chain. 3rd size — 160 chain; 6 of these are required. 4th size — 200 chain; the 10 largest leaves must have double instead of single wire, and after being bent into shape must be stitched on to stiff net, then cut the net as close to the stitches as possible and work the veins in beads with a fine needle and thread. Centre piece for crown — make a chain of 8, join it round, ist round— 4 chain, working 3 beads into 4th, I treble, i chain, i treble 9 times, working 3 beads into each i chain, I single into 3rd of 4 chain, and round — 4 chain, turg the work, I treble into ist hole of preceding round, i chain, I treble twice into every hole of preceding round. 3rd round — 4 chain, turn the work, I treble into ist hole of preceding round, work 3 beads into 4th of 4 chain, i chain, i treble into each hole of preceding round, working 3 beads into each I chain. 4th and 6th rounds — same as 2nd. 5th and 7th rounds— same as 3rd. Turn the work at the beginning of each round, which brings it to the crescent shape- Piece for head band — make a chain 3 inches longer than is required by measurement, ist row — i chain, working 3 beads into it, 8 chain, i single into 9th stitch of chain you have made, 9 chain, i single into every 9th stitch to the end of chain, working 3 beads into ist of each 9 chain. 2nd row — same as ist, with the exception of working the single stitch into 5th of each 9 chain of preceding row (the silk must be broken off at the end of each row); continue until you have made a piece wide enough to cover head band of bonnet, stretch this rather tightly on the shape. Direc- tions for making up — first cut a strip of net about ij inches wide, double it into 4 (in width) to bind the edge of shape with, next cover the shape all over with 4 thicknesses of net, then put a full, rather puffy bind of single net all round the bonnet; having done this, arrange the work on the bonnet according to illustration. The grass is made by threading beads on to wires of different lengths. The large leaves of which the trimming is composed must have net behind them. This looks equally pretty made in colours. FAN BORDER FOR SHAWLS. Use any kind of wool and bone hook, ist row— chain. 2nd row- double crochet into each stitch of chain for any length required. 3rd row— double crochet into a stitch, J chain, miss 3 stitches, double into next, 5 chain, and repeat to the end. 4th row— double into centre of 5 chain of the previous row, 4 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 4 chain, double crochet into centre of next 5 chain, 5 chain, double on centre of next 5 chain, 4 chain, 3 treble, which are to be worked into centre of next 5 chain, 4 chain, double crochet into the centre of next 5 chain, 4 chain, 3 treble into centre of next 5 chain, 4 chain, double crochet into centre of next 5 chain, 5 chain, repeat to end. 5th row — * 4 double treble, work these into the doub'e crochet that is over double crochet in previous row, 3 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble under 4 chain of previous row, 3 chain, double crochet on last of 3 treble in previous row, 3 chain, double crochet on the ist of 3 treble in previous row, 3 chain, 3 treble under next 4 chain, 3 chain, double crochet into centre of J chain, 3 chain, and repeat from ♦ to end. 6th row—* i double crochet into centre of 4 double treble, 5 chain, 3 treble under 3 chain of previous row, 4 chain, double crochet in centre of next 3 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble into centre stitch of next 3 chain, 3 chain, double crochet into centre of 3 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble under next 3 chain, 5 chain, and repeat from *. 7th row—* 3 treble under 5 chain, 3 chain, double crochet under 4 chain, 3 chain, 5 treble, begin I before, and work i past over the 3 treble of previous row, 3 chain, I double crochet under 4 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble under 5 chain, 3 chain, and repeat from *. 8th row—* i double crochet into 3 chain, 3 chain, 8 treble, begin I sooner than treble in previous row, in the centre of 5 treble work 2 treble, work i past at the end, there should be 8 treble in all, 3 chain, double crochet into next 3 chain of previous row, 4 chain, 3 treble under 3 chain, 4 chain, repeat from *. 9th row— begin * i treble sooner than 8 in previous row, make 4 trebles in all, in next stitch work 2 trebles, also 2 in next stitch, then 4 more treble, ending i past those in previous row, 6 chain, double crochet into centre of 3 treble in previous row, 6 chain, and repeat from *. loth row—* 3 treble into top of 1st treble of previous row ; these must be all drawn through the last loop together, I chain, miss i stitch, 3 more treble in the next stitch kept on the needle and drawn through i loop, i chain, miss I stitch, 3 treble same as before, i chain, 3 treble in next stitch, i chain, 3 treble in next stitch, i chain, 3 treble into next stitch, i chain, miss l stitch, 3 treble in the next, i chain, miss i, 3 treble into the next ; there should be 8 groups of treble in all, and all are to be drawn up in 1 loop as before, 6 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 6 chain, and repeat from *. nth row — * i double under ist i chain, 7 chain, double crochet into 2nd of the 7 to make picot, I chain, double crochet under next i chain, 7 chain and picot, I chain, double crochet under next i chain, 7 chain and picot, I chain, double crochet under next i chain, 7 chain and picot, i chain, double into same place as last, 7 chain and picot, i chain, double crochet into next i chain, 7 chain and picot, l chain, double under next 1 chain, 7 chain and picot, i chain, double crochet under next i chain, 7 chain and picot, I chain, double crochet under 6 chain, 6 chain, double crochet ori double crochet, 6 chain, double crochet under 6 chain, 7 chain and picot, i chain, and ' repeat from *. There should be 9 picots of 7 on each fan. ^ 233 Important to Ladies.— A PERFECT FlTl ING CORSET enmres a PERFECT FITTING DREFiS, 1 ^^^s Mrs. LEACH'S Few and Improved Corsets, Belts and Braces, for Ladies and Children. 37, NEW KENT ROAD, and i6,-GRAND PROMENADE, BRIXTON. All Corsets sent carriage free. The Louise Corset. This excellent corset is one of the newest shapes. and Hiost comfortable foi wear. They give thi.- figure a rounded appeal- | ance, and are ma ^ of the best quality aiate- rials and whalebone. A \ webbing band is fitted A through the waisi to j prevent the corset from I stretching out of shape. ;They have a separate ' gore over the hips which makes them fit perfectly, and prevents any creasing through the waist. In black or white, Si-, iia'.; crimson satin, trimmed with cream lace and well finished, I4J-. (id.,fosifree. shape. 6». \ld. The Lily Corset. Mrs. Leach can recommend this jrset to ladies lat have much alking or stoop- ig. It is fitted ith hip steels to revent the dress reasing at the aist. Also a road webbing to reserve the ones. Ladies will III ifllSII'i IIB1IM9' "'^ '^^'' ^^^ ^°^' f !fllili'fl8" 1 '' ^^^ qualities Liiatii.ust certainly recommend it, viz., comfort, support, and first-clasj They may be obtained in black or white. f The Satin Corset. This elegant satin corset is also recom- mended for ladies with full hips, as it is fitted with hip steels to prevent the dress creasing at the waist, and it is a handsome close fit- ting shape. It may be obtained in pale blue, cardinal, or blaclc, for 9/6, or white, 10I6, carriage free. MRS. LEACH'S IMPEOVED BACK-Sl'PPORTING BRACES. \ This chest-expander and back ^ ' supporter excels all other ap- pliances for the prevention and cure for round shoulders and stooping. They can be worn with or without corset, and ladies who suffer with weakness in the back will find a great support. Mrs. Leach will supply the above m drab, bound with cardinal, and elastic shoulder straps and waistband, yos< /rec, /or 6s. lid. Ladies' Riding Corset. This perfect-fitting little corset is composed of the best quality materials and whalebone. It en- ables the rider to sit with grace and ease, while it supports the figure without compressing it. May be had in black satin trimmed white, from 17 to 26-in., for 8i. lid,, post free: over 26in. waist, IS. extra. A Lady writes: — " Your cor- sets give vie such satisfac- tion that I re- commend them to all my friends.''^ Ladies' Nursing' Corsets. — The above corset is a most comfortable shape for ladies who arenursing. The bust gores are made to open, thus preventing the corsetfrom being drawn down at the top and so preserving the shape ; the liips are laced, which enables the wearer to reduce the figure. These corsets may be obtained in drab or white, c,s. I id., or best quality in fine material and whale- bone, in white only, 8j. lid., post free. IMPKOVED BELT COBSET. This corset is designed for the purpose oi reduc- ing the figure to a syste- matic proportion, at the same time to strengthen and support the back by means of a belt, in itself so simple that the wearer can in a moment tighten or loosen the corset at pleasure, without any assistance. This is one of the cheapest and most serviceable Corsets manufactured; it is a good shape, and fitted with side steels to prevent cracking on the hips, and may be procured in black, white, or drab, carriage free, for ^. lid. ^S^ CORSET FOB SLIH FIGURES. The Princess Corsets. Ladies will find these corsets produce a most perfect and graceful figure with the added bust im- provers, which are suit- able for slim ladies. They are a most desirable ad- i"unct to the dress. *Mrs. ^EACH can supply these corsets with pads for •js. 6d.; or without pads for 5^. lid., carriage free. MODEL FIGURE BELT. This model figure belt was made to special measurements and supplied direct by Mrs. Leach to the PRINCESS SPADA OF SPAIN. These belts are highly recommended for giving the figure a nicely rounded shape, and for the great support they afford to the back. The measurement should be given from right round at A, B (just above the hips), and c (round hips to lowest part) and depth from D to D. Carriage free for lQ/6 aad 12/6. Handsomely finished, 16/- and 21/. These corsets are made of the best materials and produced at the very low- est price consistent with good workmanship, and are modelled on French models of the latest design. May be had, made in white, Zs. iid., and scarlet or black, gs.iid., carriage free. POSTAL AL DRESS— Mrs. LEACH, 37, New Kent Bead, Outfitter and Corset Maker. P.O.O.made payable to Mrs. Clara Leach, Post Office, New Kent Road. Address, Mrs. Leach, Outfitter, 37, New Kent Road, London, S.E, Ladies' Combination Bust Fads, suit- able for slim figures. This novel article sai passes all others of its kind by its simple construction and freedom from all complicated mechanism. It is so extremely light and pliant that the wearer is unconscious of its presence. Mrs. Leach can supply these combined pads at l.r. l\d.; large size, 2s. 6a?.; or separate pads at is. 6d. a pair; in horse-hair at is. 4d., post free. ^|t^*^ife^^ \y 3VCI^,s. LIE^GIi'S CONTENTS :- PRACTICAL LESSONS IN Art Needlework, Photograph Painting, Lace Making, Mountmellick Embroidery, Macrame Work, Crochet, Knitting, Bead Work, Home Decoration, Bazaar Articles, Patchwork, Wool Flowers, Fan Decoration, Drawn Linen, Crochet Netting, and Miscellaneous Articles. ^OL- 2- LONDON! R. S. CARTWRIGHT, 8, JOaNSOJST'S OOUiriT, 3h^X^EH;T ST_BKhCT, K.O. INDEX.— Vol. 2. Art Needlework ... 22, 41, 44, 60, 78, 98, 118, 138, 158, 177, 173 Bazaars, whatto make for... 4, 5. 41, 5S, 62, 79, 80, 103, 120, 138, 203 Bead Work 24,80,99 Crochet Netting 222 Drawn Linen 199 Fan Decoration 197 Flowers, "Wool 120 Fourcli(5 Work 222 Home Decoration 179 Lace Making 98, 118 Lamp and Candle Shades. ..218 MacrSme Work ...5, 23, 201, 223 Mountmellick Embroidery 217 Netting, Crochet 222 Painting Articles for tho Home 57, 77, 97, 117, 137, 157 Patchwork 100 Photograph Painting ... 1, 21 Presentsfor Gentlemen. ..08, 69 Wool Flowers 120 KNITTING. Afghan Pattern 207 Antimacassare, Cotton 103 „ Stripe 88 „ Wool ...29,88, 148 Ball for Child 142 Band for Gentleman 187 Basket, Egg 226 Beasley Pattern 26 Bed Rest 109 Belt, Elastic SS Boa for Lady in Ice Wool ... 147 Bonnet, Princess 8 .Boots for Infant 28, 69, 147, 148 Bootikins 200 Borders for Counterpanes, 47, 14.^, 181 „ for Shawls 107,146 Bracelets 27 Brioche, Double 69 „ Jubilee 188 Cable and Diamond Edge ... 129 „ Insertion 129 Cane Pattern 208 Cap, Jersey, for 5 to 9 years 168 Clouds 85,127 Coat for Gentleman 128 Cobweb Stripe .. 63 Collar and Cuffs for Child CVimbinations for 4 years „ Ladies 87 144 104 Counterpanes... 45, 164, ISO, 1S4 Cosies, Tea ... .. ... 10,225 Couvrette 119 Cover for Pie Dish 109 Coral, Imitation 189 Cuffs 207 ,, Beaded 8, 8g Diamond Stripe 45 Dolls' Clothes 124 Double Brioche 69 Knitting 149 Doyley, Netted 224 Drawers for Ladies 49 „ Boys, 4 to 6 years ... 107 Edgings 47, 107, 127, 129, 145, 209 Egg Baskets 226 Elastic Belt 88 Emigrant's Vest 11,205 Facile Stocking 04 Fichu 29 Fringes 9, 145 German Pattern 8 Glove for 3 years 168 ,, 14 to 16 years ... 107 ,, Pattern for Back of 168 Handkerchief in Silk 03 Hat for Baby Boy 25 Helmet, Travelling 146 Hood tor Infant ... ^ ... 85,105 „ Ladies' Capuchin 165 Insertions 120, 129, 208 Ivy Leaf Pattern 148 Jacket for Infant 146 Ladies 129 Jersey Cap, 5 to 9 years ... 168 „ Suit, 5 years 120 Jug, Pence 187 Kilt Pattern 11 Kettle Holder 9 Lace Patterns ... 144,149,227 Lattice Stripe 64 Laurel Leaf 227 Leaf Edging 209 „ Patterns 127, 148, 149,227,228 Lozenge Pattern 228 Mat, Patchwork 186 Mittens 85, 184 „ for Gent 68 „ in Fine Silk 67 Muffler Pattern Necktie for Gent . . . Netted Doyley Night Socks Opera Hood „ Wrap Oval and Diamond Overalls for Infant Patch for Stocking Patti Knitting Pence Jug „ Purse Petticoats for Ladies Page ... 143 ... 69 ... 223 ... 228 ... 128 ... 28 ... 207 ... 30 ... 165 ... 184 ... 187 ... 26 11,25,66, 87, 142 „ 14 years 68 7 „ 185 „ 3 „ 148, 188, 205 ,, 2 to 4 years... 185 „ Infants 27, 05, 67, 106 Piedish Cover 109 Pincushion 7,188 Point None 188 Pouch, Tobacco 206 Poultice Bandages 86 Princess Bonnet for Lady ... 8 Purse 167 „ Pence 2S QuUts 45, 164, 180, 184 Scarf 140 Seaweed Spray 189 Serviette Eing 84 Shawl Patterns 11, 27, 29, 145, 146, 150, 167, 183 „ in Shetland 48 Shoe and Sock for Infant ... 28 Silk Handkerchief 63 Sleeping Sock 145 Sleeve Ties for Infant 189 ... 104 ... 185 Sock for Gentleman 189 „ 3 years 85,106 „ Infant's, in Open Pattern 65 „ and Shoe for Infant ... 28 „ Sleeping 145 „ Infant's Night 228 Sofa Blanket 164 Spider Stitch 189 Star for Antimacassars, &c. .. . 187 Stockings for Child 128 Girl 109 „ Lady 86 Slippers for Ladies „ Infant Pago Stockings, Facile ... 64 Pat.hfor ... 165 Stripe for Shawls 27,88 Tea Cosies 10, 226 Teapot Holder . 10, 139 Tobacco Pouc'n ... 206 Toilet Cover ... 28 „ Set ... 83 Towel 189 Travelling Cap 10, 28, 68 „ Helmet ... 146 Turkish Pattern Lace .. . ... 227 Vest, Emigrant's '. 11, 205 „ tor Gentleman . . . 108 Ladies ... 9,166, 204,20.^. „ 3 to 6 years .. . ... 205 „ Infants... 10, 50, 66, 84, 204, 205 Vine Leaf Pattern . ... 228 Waistcoat for Gent . ... 69 Wrap for Head . ... 186 CEOCHET Antimacassars, Cotton.. . 156, 174, 193, 214, 236 Wool .. . 110, 151, 17 0, 211, 231 Bags, Nightdress . ... 232 „ Work . 18, 111 Ball of String, Case for.. . ... 56 Basket for Cotton, &c. .. . ... 95 „ Beaconsfield . ... 231 „ Hand . ... 192 Bassinette Cover ... . . ... 170 Bazaars, Dolls to Dress for ... 35 Bell Ropes . ... 4 Bibs for Infant ... 19, 89,192,232 Boa for Ladies . ... 114 Bodice, Under, for Lidies ... 70 Bonnet, Grannie ... . . ... 91 „ StyUsh ... . . ... 17 Bootikins for Infant 92 Boots for Infant ... . 113 Braid, Tinsel 280 Bread Mat 55 Butterfly Pattern ... . 231 Cap for Servants ... . 173 Cape, Ladies'... 14, 52, 96,110,231 „ and Hood . . . 14 Cheese Serviette ... . 15 Chemise Tops ... . .. 89, 194 Cloud 50 1 N D EX — Contimied. Dolman for 7 years „ Ladies' Paga Collars for Ladies ... 33,152,172, 174 „ and Cuffs for Child ... 215 Costume for 1 to 2 years ... 130 Cosies, Egg 12,34 Cot Quilt 153 Couvrette for Sofa 1^2 Cover for Bassinette 170 „ Music Stool 193 ;, Table 210 Cricketing Turban ^3 Crimea Mitten 231 Curtain Holders 210 Cushion, Sofa 150 DahUaStar 135 Dolls, to Dress, for Bazaars ... 35 „ Fishwife 73 „ Hat, Gainsboro' Shape <3 „ Hood 170 „ in Wool and Silk ... 74 ... 70 12, 190 Doyley 156 Dresses tor Infants ... 192,211 „ 1 to 2 years ... 90 „ Boy of 2 years ... 132 ,, 2 to 4 years... 90,133 „ Dolls ... 30,73,7-1 „ Trimming for 156 Edgings ... 20, 33, 34, 54, 135, 155, 192, 194, 214, 235, 236 Egg Cosies 12,34 Fanchon •• 33 Fez Penwiper 96 Fishwife, Doll dressed as ... 73 Fringe 153 Frock for Boy of 2 years ... 132 Gainsborough Hat for Doll .. . 73 Glove for Infant ... ; 19 Grannie Bonnet 91 Grecian Key Edging 194 Handbasket 192 Handkerchief for Neck ... 51 Hat for Baby Boy... 19,132,151 „ for Doll 73 „ Travelling, for Ladies ... 169 Head Flannel for Infant ... 53 Hood?, Infant's 31,56,212 Hood and Cape 210 „ „ „ for Ladies' even- iog wear ... 14 „ for Doll 170 ., Garden 56 Insertions 34, 155, 171 Jackets for Infant ... 32, 51, 52,191 230 „ „ Ladies 229 Jersey for Iiif ant .. 212 Jng, Pence ... ...' 151 Page Knickerbockers, Trimming for 215 232 Lace 114, 135,171, 235 „ BoaforLady 114 Mantles for Evening Wear 70, 71, 190 Mat for Bread Tray 55 Vasts 16,95 Mitten, Crimea 231 Mosaic Pattern -211 Muffatees ... 151 Music Stool Cover 193 Nightcap 54, 8.S Nightdress Bag 232 Night Net 18 Oak-leaf Edging 155 Opera Hoods 13,72 „ Cloak 93 Pelisse and Hat for Baby Boy 132 ,, Trimming for 74 Pence Jng 151 Penwiper, Fez 96 Petticoat, Lady's ... 17,54,150 „ 4 years 91 „ 3 years... ... 53,94 1 to 2 years ... 91,229 Infant's ... 20, 95 Pincushion, Surflower 115 Pine apple Scallop 133 Point Neige 191, 211 Pyrenean Wool, Shawl in ... 94 Quilts 17, 30 „ Cot 153,230 Eug, Sofa ... 112,134 Scallop Trimniiug 133 Scarf 93 Servant's Cap 173 Serviette, Cheese 15 Shawls 12, 31, 32, 94, 112, 114, 190 „ Mantle 190 ,, in Pyrenean Wool ... 94 „ Shetland Wool .. 92 Shetland Shawl ... 92 Shoulder Cape for Lady. ..14,52,110 „ Shawl 31 Slippers for Children Ill „ Ladies' . . 104, 111, 131 „ Watch Pocket .. 75 Slumber Roll 170 Sofa Couvrette 112 „ Rug 134 Star, Dahlia 135 String Ball Ca-e 56 Stripefor Antimscas-ar... 214, 23S Sunflower Pincushion 115 Table Cover 210 Tam o' Shanters ... 13,51,212 Page Page Tassel Bag 16 Holland Chatelaines 5 Tinsel Braid 230 Jubilee Designs 80 177 Tippet for Elderly Lady 96 Kerchief Pinafore 62 Toilet Set 193 Kniok Knacks 103 Trimming for Dress ... 156 236 Knitting, Ca'se for 160 ,, Infants' Pelisses 74 „ Needle Case 82 „ Knickerbockers 215 Letter Rack 162 232 Mantel Borders ... 41,177 195 Turban, Cricketing for Boy... 53 Mats, Table . 2 Under Bodice for Ladies 70 „ for Vase 163 Watchpocket, Slipper 75 Music Cases ., ... 79 Work Bags 18 ,111 Nesdiebook, Bellows 162 Wrap Shawl for Lady Wrap for Head 114 „ Horseshoe 162 13 Needlework, Effective 202 Newspaper Oases 58 161 MISCELL A.NEOUS. „ Cases 161 Bag, Work ... „ German 25 159 New Year and Birthday Gifts 42,58 Basket, Hanging 123 ,180 Novelties in Fancy Work . . . 158 Work 225 Ornaments from Eggs 160 BellEopes 3 Penwiper, Fan 79 Birthday Gifts 42,58 Pillows, Toss 119 Bolster for Easy Chair 59 Pinafore, Kerchief 62 Book Covers ...... ... 59,82 Pinafore Made Of One Hand- Bookmarkers... 4 kerchief 203 Border 41 Pinafore made of Two Hand- Breakfast Tray Cloths 203 kerchiefs ... 139 Butterfly, Feather 159 Pinafore Made of Three Hand- Buttonholes, Ornamental ... 60 kerchiefs 120 Card Cases 161 Pincushion 82 „ Ever full 160 Case for Knitting 160 „ Fan 5 „ Newspaper 58 161 Fish 80 Catchall, Yum-yum's 138 „ Union Jack 82 „ Milrado 123 Post Card Case 160 Chatelaine, Holland 5 Quilt, design 62 Children's Work at Colonial Rosette Work 81 E.thibition 45 Sachet for White Ties 225 Christmas and New Year Gifts, Scent Bottle Case 4 Hints for 42 ,, or Jewel Case ... 138 Cloths for Breakfast Trays .. 203 Scraps, to use up 119 Colonial Exhibition, Children's Screen Holdall 225 Work at 45 Settee Cover 41 Cosy, Tea 10 Skeleton Leaves 198 Covers for Books 5 9,82 Slipper Case 59 Crazy Work 58 Slippers, quickly made 138 Cushion 58 Table Mats 2 „ Canadian 159 Eggs, Ornaments from 160 Tea Cosy Ties, White, Sachet for 41 225 Fancy Work, Novelties in ... 158 Umbrella Case 99 Fan Penwiper ,, Pincushion 79 5 Union Jack Pincusbiun Useful Articles 58 82 137 Fish Pincushion Feather Butterfly 80 159 Vase for Pampas Grass Work Bag ... „ German „ Basket 123 25 159 „ Duster, Holder for ... 123 German Workbag 159 2>5 Hints for Christinas and New „ Basket, Hanging 123 Year Gifts 42 „ Case 81 Holdall, Screen 225 Yum-yum's Catchall 138 W. I. r.icn.xubsON', Priutcr, 4 and 5, Ceat Oneen Sli-eot, UniMla's luu Fields, tondon, W C. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. Photograph Painting. The great charm about this style of painting is that no previous knowledge of drawing is necessary, and, therefore, it comes within the reach of all who would like to learn painting without the tediousness and drudgery of learning to draw. The necessary materials are an ordinary water-colour box, some paint-brushes, a china palette, and a small bottle of dissolved guni arable. The paint-box should contain the following colours— if it does not, some can be bought separately, either in whole or half cakes : carmine, rose madder, vermilion, crimson lake, Venetian red, French blue, cadmium yellow, Prussian blue, indigo, Indian ink, sepia, Vandyke brown, burnt sienna, brown madder, ochre, and a pan of Chinese white. Three sable brushes will be sufficient ; one at lod., one two sizes smaller, Zd., and the smallest which is made, 6d. Those made in a tin ferrule are the best. To test the quality of brushes when purchasing, dip them into water and then bring them to a point on your thumb-nail, and then bend them down ; if they are good sable, they will spring back to their original position. Besides these, a medium-sized camel's-hair brush is use_ful, especially for backgrounds. Be very careful to procure good ones, as it is almost impossible to work with inferior ones. The next thing is the choice of a photograph suitable for painting. The general hue should be a grey tint, not brown, and a light photograph should always be chosen in preference to a dark one. Some recommend old photographs to begin on, but I do not think this to be a good plan, as old ones are generally so rough on the surface, that the most experienced painter can scarcely make them look well, and as a beginner should have everything made as easy as possible, I should recommend new photographs. 1 do not mean my readers to go to a great expense and buy first-rate cabinet photographs, but small unmounted fancy photographs answer the purpose capitally, and as they can be procured for a few pence, it does not matter if the first trial turns out to be a failure ; and another thing, they are much more interesting to paint than the ordinary portrait, as they can be coloured according to taste. Then be sure and choose such photographs as are light in the shadows, especially those of women and children, for the purpose of giving them softness. If the shadows are dark, considerable difficulty is felf in working the grey tints over them. The only way is to paint them in with body colour, but by doing this it spoils the transpa- rency, which is so essential in colouring a face. If you can, always try and have a duplicate copy (unpainted, of course) before you to help you to keep the likeness. Most of the coloured photographs seen in shop windows are painted entirely for effect, by giving them a wash of flesh colour, and putting a little colour on the cheeks, lips, hair, &c. I do not wonder at the colourists taking so little trouble, for one firm that I know of only pays the colourist twopence halfpenny each carte-de- visite. So much for the photograph. The gum is used as a medium for mixing the paints. It can be procured at an oil-shop. A pennyworth would be quite enough at one time. Ask for gum arable, as this is the whitest. You will find it is in small pieces, some brown, some white ; you must pick out all the whifi; pieces and then put them in a bottle, and pour upon it about a quarter of a pint of boiling water, and leave it to stand until cold. It ought to be much thinner than the consistency of ordinary bottles of gum sold, and almost transparent. Some of this must be put in a little bottle, while the larger one can be kept for future use. Having procured all the materials, you can now proceed with the pleasant and attractive part, namely, the painting, taking it for granted that if the photograph procured was an unmounted one, it has been mounted by this time and ready for use. It is no use attempting to paint it before it has been mounted, as directly it is wetted it begins to curl up, and the work done proves very unsatis- factory. The best thing to use for mounting a photograph is starch or paste. The back of the photograph must be pasted all ovej; then laid on the cardboard, and pressed down from the centre to the sides. Painting the Face. To prepare the photograph for painting, wash it all over with a brush dipped in clear water, when you will find it appears quite Vol II. No. 13. greasy ; if after a minute or so you find you cannot get the grease off, put the brush in your mouth and again wash the photograph over ; this you will find quite effectual. To make up a flesh-wash, rub a little rose madder on your palette, and close beside it rub a little cadmium'yellow (having first put one drop of gum and one of water to each), then mix a little of each together until you make a flesh colour. Now take a little in your medium-sized paint-brush, and go lightly over all the face, commencing at the right hand side and working towards the neck ; do not study the outline, as the colour can be easily washed off afterv/ards. Repeat the wash two or three times, only working the reverse way each time, until you think that you have got the com- plexion the right depth in colour. Do not strengthen the colour for each wash, but use the same tint very thin and pale, and, by going over the flesh several times, the complexion will have a much softe'r effect than if you were to apply a wash of the right depth at first. In doing this you must use your brush very lightly, or you will find the colour, instead of showing an even smooth surface, will be in streaks ; but this evenness of tone can only be got by practice, so I would advise my readers not to be discouraged if the first attempt is not all they would wish. Having got the colour for the complexion the right depth, now take a little rose madder m the smallest brush and put on the colour in the cheeks ; this must be done so lightly, that at first you will scarcely see that any colour has been put on. This colour must be stippled on by little fine touches with the point of the brush, so that no hard line is left where the colour and complexion-tint meet. In painting the carnations fas the colour in the cheeks is sometimes called) be careful not to bring it too near the nose. It is a good plan to stipple a little of the flesh colour over the rose madder just where the two colours meet, so as to spread it more evenly. The shadows must now be worked in. For this mix a Utile cobalt blue and sepia, which must be put on very lightly. For the deepest shadows use a little more sepia than blue ; but where the shadows meet the complexion, more blue must be used, and it must be stippled on, graduating the shadow into the complexion. \ little shadow colour is always under the eyes and underneath the under lip and nostrils. Now put a little colour on each lip, com- posed of carmine and vermilion. If the photograph is that of a young person, the colour in the cheeks can be heightened with a little vermilion ; but if it is of an elderly person, a little cadmium yellow can be stippled round the eyes, by the nose, and the lower part of the face. In painting the eye, the first thing is to paint the iris (the iris is the coloured rim round the pupil) whatever colour is required— blue, grey, or brown— with a very fine brush. Sometimes there is a black line round the iris, which can be put in with a little sepia The pupil is painted in with black ; this will require a very steady touch, especially if the photo is a small one. Now, if you study a person's eye, you will find there are two lights, one on the pupil, and a reflected light on thairis. The one on \he pupil must be painted in with pure Chinese white, put on with one touch of the paint-brush. For the reflected light, take a little of the colour that was used for the iris, mixed with Chinese white, and put a litde curved line on the iris. The eyeball is next to be painted. In childhood it has a bluish tinge, but as old age comes on this changes to a yellowish colour. At the extreme comer of the eyeball next the nose a tiny dot of vermilion is to be painted in. Now the eye- lashes are painted. Sepia is generally used for this. They must be put in with a veiy fine brush in very fine curved lines. We can now consider the eye to be finished, all but the eyebrow ; care must be taken not to get these too pencilled, or they will not look natural. To get a better finish, turn the photo upside down, and stipple it in that position. Slippling is filling up all the little holes, so as to obtain quite an even surface. The photograph can be turned backwards and forwards several times, and each time you will get a better finish. The face is now nearly finished. If a background is to be painted, it must be done before the hair ; but if there is to be no background, you can now proceed with the hair. The paint for hair must be put on very smoothly and evenly, generally m washes. I will give a few colours for hair later on. You will notice that the neck and hands are, in ladies, whiter than the face, but the hands must not be made too white ; a litde rose madder can be painted on the palms and between the fingers. {To be continued.') THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. SMALL TABLE MATS. It is often a subject for comment and admiration — the wonderful stride made during the present century by our artistic tastes as well as by our mechanical and inventive faculties. Talking of art ; consider what improvements have been made even in the minutest details of the furniture of our rooms, and even in those small un- important articles "mats." Where is the modern housekeeper that would tolerate the circlet of wool, of such a green ! knitted up, damped, baked and unravelled in the foolish hope that it might >je looked upon as moss? Surely no blind person was ever so blind, and surely no one ever looked twice at the woollen atrocities im- bedded in the so-called moss and which offered insult to Nature by bearing the titles "waterlily," "geranium," "rose." Will our present achievements be as contrary to the tastes of our great grand- children as are these works of art I have in my mind's eye as I write this? We can scarcely think so, and therefore proceed without further meandering to describe a few modem mats that are simpler, and, at any rate, are admired by the present generation. The prettiest and simplest mats are those made of a simple square of plush edged by a pretty fringe or a'few tassels sewn on at regular intervals (Fig. i). They are, of course, very easily made. The plush is cut the size required, and then tacked to a piece of sateen, which is to serve as lining, and must be about half an inch larger all round than the plush. The two squares must be tacked together and the edges of the lining turned over carefully to the right side and hemmed in place. When the fringe is sewn on all round, this hem will be hidden and it will be found that the wrong side is every bit as neat and tidy as the right. More elaborate mats may be made of scraps and odds and ends left from larger pieces of work. Cut first of all a piece of un- ■X ■ r bleached calico or •^'■9- ^- holland the size that the mat is to be, turn down all the corners equally ; press them well so as to make the fold well defined, then turn them back again (Fig. 2). Take a piece of satin large enough to cover the piece of holland in the middle leaving uncovered the four comer triangles. Tack it firmly into place. Next find four small pieces of velvet or plush, whichever is most convenient, sew them to the holland along the fold that was made at the comers on the wrong side of the plush, so that it will fold over into its right place and the stitches will all be hidden. When all four comers are done in this way, line the mat with thin sateen or silk, as before described, and add the fringe. Instead of the four plush corners the mat may be made half of velvet and half of satin, the join running diagonally across the square from corner to corner. Again, a square mat may be constructed of four small squares of any convenient material sewn together and the joins concealed by embroidery — a fancy St tch, such as feather or coral-stitch is quite suflicient for the purpose (Fig. 3). A square or oblong mat may be made very prettily of plain silk or satin with a strip of coloured ribbon velvet laid across it diagonally from corner to corner and the edges of course concealed with embroidery (Fig. 4). Another and more elaborate style requires a foundation of holland. I will suppose it to be an oblong shape. The two sides of the holland mustfirst be 5 %3 folded in till they just touch exactly in the centre ; press the folds hard so that their position is well defined on the holland, then take the two ends of the mat and treat them exactly in the same fashion. Open out the holland flat and it will be found divided into nine divisions, the middle one being the largest, the four comer ones being oblong and alike ; and of the four remaining divisions the two at the sides are alike and the one at the top corresponds with the one at the bottom (Fig 5). Now, when this, holland founda- tion is nicely covered with scraps of silk or velvet it forms a most tempting foundation for delicate embroidery. The centre space, as being probably hidden when the mat is in use, need not have any embroidery at all on it, but the remaining divisions may have small sprays, figures or birds, either painted or worked on them. Very delicate and simple little mats may be made of squares or oblongs of satin with a design of flowers, leaves, or grass worked all over them, partly in silks and partly in arrasene (Fig. 6). Sometimes m. 7i^.6 W 'TO /fflkv ^ Jig 10. very tiny sprays of jasmine, daisies, or any small flower are worked all over them, " powdered " as it is called, but this style of em- broidery requires using with taste or it is apt to have a " spotty " appearance, which is not desirable. These comparatively plajn mats look best with tassels at the edge instead of fringe. About five are required for a square mat at each edge, that is one at each comer and three between (Fig. 7). So far I have spoken only of square and oblong mats ; the round or oval ones are not quite so easily managed. They should always be made up over a founda- tion of unbleached calico, otherwise the edges are apt to pull out ot shape during the process of putting on the fringes. A pretty way of arranging a round mat is in its result similar in appearance to a cricketer's cap (Fig. 8), that is, with four divisions, two of one colour and two of another, or two of plush and two of boocaded or plain silk ; the embroidery may be either confined to the divisions or may straggle over the whole mat irrespective of the different colours and materials used. A round or an oval mat lends itself well to the diagonal band across it, which I have before described, or it may be folded and divided into nine divisions, and each of these nine divisions embelUshed with embroidery (Figs. 9 and 10). The prettiest dessert doyleys are those made either of white satin or of satin the same colour as the finger-bowls, or, if preferred, they may match the satin slips that are laid down the dinner-table. In any case they should not be too highly ornamented — a small em- broidered or painted spray and a bordering of fine lace or gold fringe is all that is necessary (Fig. 11). Housekeepers like a con- stant change of dessert doyleys, so it is by no means advis- able to ex- pend much time on what is usually not intended to be lasting. Fine lace may be turn- ed to account % 11 THE FANCy WUK.K-BASKEr. as dessert mats, the bars and wheels being worked taste- ful 1 y over with different coloured silks mixed with a little tinsel. The — „. ,7 mats are to A? '" 3' be had at most fancy hiiops all ready for workii.„ a. me very elegant muslin mats I saw lately had a pretty and not too intricate design traced on them, and followed with the narrowest and finest lace braid. All the ins and outs of the pattern between the braid were filled in with small sprays and flowers worked with the finest flourishing thread in satin or crewel stitch. A delicate thread lace edged the doyleys and they were finished off with a lining of rose-coloured sateen. Small mats made of American leather are useful for standing a flower-pot on, or jug of hot water or for use under the filter, water-jug and goblets on a sideboard. The edges should be cut out in scallops and bound with a narrow ribbon, while the ornamentation may consist of a spray or half wreath of flowers painted on the leather rather near the edge, so as to escape the pressure of the jug or whatever else is to be stood upon it (Fig. 12). Very pretty mats maybe made of ribbon of two colours, say of salmon-pink and brown for the sake of example. The two ribbons must be of exactly the same width, and interlaced one strip over another so that a sort of chess-board pattern is the result. The ends of the ribbon at the edges of the mats are, of course, secured with a few stitches to keep them in place before the lining and the fringe are added (Fig. 13). A pretty cretonne with the pattern, or rather the main points of it worked over with silks and tinsel can be made into uncommon-looking mats, while the Japanese pictures printed on crape may also be used in this way. Octagonal or hexagonal pieces of cloth make useful soft mats and look pretty with an appliqued border of scraps of different-coloured cloth, which adds greatly to their foreign appearance.- Many specimens of Turkish embroidery will furnish hints for this cloth appliqu6. Harlequin mats owe their name to the many-coloured silks and satins used in their manufacture. Sometimes these scraps are sewn together, so as to make a good bold star in the centre of the mat, the groundwork being filled in with scraps of a duller shade of colour, and sometimes they are made of the so- called crazy-patchwork, that is, of small scraps of every imaginable shape and colour laid on a holland foundation, so that they entirely cover it. The joins between these scraps are afterwards worked over closely with embroidery, and the scraps themselves are orna- mented with wheels, sprays, initials, stars, in fact almost anything that will tend to render the patchwork more bizarre and kaleide- scopic in appearance (Fig. 14). From what has gone before it will be seen how very many varieties of form and decoration may be adapted to the manufacture of mats, and it may suggest means of using up some of the innumerable scraps and odds and ends of plush and other handsome materials that one is apt to treasure up " in case they may be useful some day." A pair of little table mats, such as I have mentioned, would form a very pretty gift for Christmas or for a birthday and would fetch far more than their intrinsic value at a bazaar. It is needless, perhaps, to add that the work put into them cannot be too neat, or too carefully executed, as unless this is so they would be apt not to set flat on the table or bracket on which they are used. I have not attempted to give directions for either mats carried out in knitting or crochet, as, I believe, instruc- tions for them can be found in almost every handbook on the subject, and it would be plagiarism to repeat them here. Lastly, I must remind the indulgent readers that the sketches accompanying this paper have to be regarded simply as plans or diagrams, not detailed drawings of the mats described in the l etterpress. ___^ Subscription Form to the FANCY WORK-BASKET. Cut this out and forward it, with Fifteen Stamps, to R. S. CARTWRIGHT, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet St., E.C. M. (name.) {address.) Please forward me the " Fancy Work-hasket " for six months, commencing with No , for which I enclose Fifteen Stamps. 1886. BELL ROPES. The old-fashioned woollen rope with its heavy tassel is seen no longer in modern houses, where, as a rule, the bell-handle is placed in the wall of the room, and thus no bell-rope of amateur construction is required. It is not, however, everyone's fortune to live in a house furnished with all the new and improved appliances of this kind, and an acceptable little gift to the mistress of an old-fashioned house would be an ornamentally embroidered bell-rope, or a pair, if there are two bells in the room for which they are intended. They are the simplest possible things to make, consisting as they do of a straight strip only of embroidery. They usually measure about a yard and a half long and about four inches wide, the length, of course, varying according to the pitch of the room. They should hang so as to be just convenient to the hand. We will describe one made of satin first, but will refer to other materials later on. Having cut the strip the proper size, allowing an extra two inches in the length and an inch for turnings at the sides, proceed to em- broider a trailing pattern of flowers or a handsome geometric design down the strip, taking care not to pucker or draw the satin during the operation. When all this em- broidery is finished, lay the satin right side downwards on a clean ironing-sheet, place a soft cloth over this, then a damp cloth and finally another fold of the ironing sheet. Press it evenly and lightly with a flat iron, taking care that it is not hot enough to injure the colours of the embroidery. Now cut a strip of stiff muslin the exact size that the bell-rope is to be, lay it against the satin inside and fold the edges f / \\ of the satin over it, securing them here and there with a few stitches, taking care that they do not show through to the right side. Turn , M ' \* in the top in exactly the same way. The two lower corners of the bell-rope should be turned in so as to make a point like the point that is usually made at one end of the waistband of a dress. Now for the actual handle of the bell- pull, this may consist of a very large brass curtain-ring or of a sort of brass hanger or tassel such as we see sometimes used on outside bells, while at many furnishing establishments are sold very large brass rings with a moveable rod and screw at the top, so that the work can be screwed into them. The only objections to these are that the worker is forced to make her embroidery of a certain width to enable the slide to contain it, and that the ring is rather large and heavy for a small room. The brass curtain rings cost only about a tenth part of the patent handles, and have just as good an appearance. The brass ring must be very firmly sewn to the back where it will not show. At the top of the bell-rope inside must be sewn a large stay -hook, such as those which used once to be attached to corsets to keep the petticoats in place. Take care that this hook, although close to the top edge of the bell-rope, is yet not visible on the right side. The sketch shows the top of the bell rope turned over to show the hook. For the lining of course nothing looks better than silk or satin, but if something less expensive is preferred sateen or llama may be used instead. This must be folded just a trifle smaller than the bell-rope and very neatly hemmed do^vn the sides ; it must be passed over the shank of the hook so as to leave only the simple hook free, as is done with 3 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. those down the fronts of tailor-made gowns or jackets. Another way of managing the hning is to sew the lining and the satin together on the wrong side and to turn them inside out afterwards. The disadvantage of this plan is that the satin is apt to become crumpled during the operation of turning it to the right side. A narrow silk cord should finally edge the bell-rope all round. As to colour, this must be decided by the circumstances of the case. A soft silver-grey satin looks well embroidered wilh a trail of pink wild roses and blue forget-me-nots, or golden brown plush with yellow and white marguerites. There are very many pretty chenille materials (intended for mantel -valances) to be •had now at a price varying from a shilling to three and sixpence a yard, which answer the purpose of bell-ropes admirably. If the pattern is not considered sufficiently bold, they may be worked with long and rather loose stitches over the design, and tinsel added round the outlines of the pattern There are now innumerable fancy ribbons which would make up well for this purpose, while, if preferred, such bell-ropes may be made in the way we have described, but of strips of the same sateen, dimity or cre- tonne with which the room happens to be upholstered. Lines of narrow gold braid connected by fancy stitches worked in either tinsel or silk look handsome on a plush foundation. Some look well with a piece of wadding laid between the outside cover and the stiff muslin, but this is another matter to be decided by individual fancy. Another quite novel idea is to use one of the pretty inexpensive surah sashes as a bell-rope. They are very easy to arrange, and require scarcely any making up and no lining at all. The end that is to hang to the wire is gathered tightly and finished with a tie of ribbon the same colour as the silk. It maybe fastened to the bell-wire either with a hook or with the ribbon. The lower end of the sash is gathered about a quarter of a yard from the bottom and tied round also with narrow satin ribbon arranged in rather long loops and ends, and a few stitches passed through the bows to keep them firmly in place. Another pretty rope is made in crochet, diamond tricoter pattern. Materials required : 2 ozs. of double scarlet berlin, I oz. of black, bone tricoter hook No. 7, a quarter of a yard of Turkey red twill, and a large thick ornamental brass or mahogany ring, which can be bought at any iron- monger's. Commence with scarlet wool, and make a chain of 10 stitches, work 3 rows in plain tricoter. 4th row — to begin the diamond, * raise 4 stitches in scarlet, join the black wool, and raise 2 black, then raise 4 scarlet (do not break oflf the wool, but keep the 2 balls of wool in use at the back of your work); now work back the 1st 4 stitches in scarlet, i black, 5 scarlet. 5 th row — raise 3 in scarlet, 4 black, 3 scarlet, work back the ist 3 stitches in scarlet, 3 in black, 4 in scarlet. 6th row — raise 2 in scarlet, 6 in black, 2 in scarlet, work back, 2 scar- let, 5 black, 3 scarlet. 7th row — raise 3 in scarlet, 4 black, 3 scarlet, work back, 3 scarlet, 3 black, 4 scarlet. 8th row — raise 4 scarlet, 2 black, 4 I scarlet, work back, 4 scarlet, i black, 5 I scarlet; this completes i diamond; now I work 3 rows all scarlet, and in next row commence the second pattern ; repeat from * for 19 patterns, and at the end work 9 rows of scarlet instead of 3; this is for sewing over the ring. The pull will be about 58 inches long; if required longer or shorter, you must, of course, either make more or less diamonds. You now make a large full rosette of the scarlet and black wool by working 5 chain and unite, ist row — 7 chain, i double crochet into the ring, until you have quite filled it up. 2nd row — 8 chain, 1 double into every double of last row, working at the back. 3rd row — 9 chain, i double crochet between the others at the back, until it is large enough to cover over the top of pull, and sew it firmly on as a finish to the top. To line it, split the piece of Turkey red twill in half and join neatly, then sew it each side of the length of tricoter, keeping the work the right side; use red ingrain cotton and sew neatly quite to the edges; put the plain end through the ring and sew over very firmly half the ring, when the 4 pull will be complete. You can make them any two colours to match furniture or paper. SCENT BOTTLE CASE. A fancy cover like the above, in which a bottle of scent can be encased, is a pretty adjunct to any toilet table, besides being useful in serving to prevent breakage of the bottle in case of its being accidentally thrown down on the hard marble- topped washstand or dress- ing table. Soft Liberty silk or surah is a good material to use. First cut a circle of card the size of the bottom of the scent bottle, cover it neatly on both sides with the silk. Next cut some more silk deep enough to reach to the neck of the bottle, and wide enough to fit easily round the circle of card. Embroider either the name of the scent or the name of the owner in a pretty style of writing slantwise across the silk, then join the two sides and sew the lower edge to the circle already made of silk and cardboard. This should be done on the wrong side and turned over afterwards. A simple hem must be made at the top, the upper edge of which should be finished with a narrow lace. A piece of elastic must be run into the hem and drawn up very small so as just to fit round the neck of the bottle, or if preferred, a ribbon may be run in, and drawn up with a bow and ends. BOOK-MARKERS. Embroidered book-markers are an old fashion revived, and have the advantage of taking up so little room that they are capital things to pack up in an envelope to send as trifling gifts to friends abroad. There are such a multitude of pretty dainty manners in which they may be made, and all kinds of odds and ends of ribbons, silks, &c., can be turned to account for them. We will give a minute description of one form, and then it will be seen how very readily it may be improved upon and altered to suit individual taste. We have seen them made of a strip of satin ribbon about two inches and a half wide, and thirty inches long. This is the size for use in a large book about the size of a bound volume of Punch or the Athenauni. The ends of this ribbon should have an embroidered design on them for about the distance of four inches ot their length. If the stitches look very unsightly on the wrong side, they may be covered by a thin lining of silk put on very neatly and very flat. Now fold the ribbon exactly in half, take a little piece of smooth stick (part of a pocket-book pencil will answer well), put it between the two folds of ribbon where the fold is made at the top, and secure it in place with a few invisible stitches, putting also a stitch or two at the sides to prevent it from slipping out there. The two ends of the ribbon look well edged with a tiny gold bullion fringe or two or three wee tassels. If preferred, the book-markers may be ornamented with lustra painting or with silk transfers, or the monogram of the owner may be traced in gold braid or very fine gold silk cord. If intended for use in a devotional book, a cross cut out of white perforated card is the most appropriate style of ornamentation. The cross must first be cut the size it is required in the cardboard, then another cut just one hole smaller all round than the first, then another just one hole smaller, and so on, sticking one cross over the other with gum until the top cross is as small as possible. The whole cross should then be girmmed to the ribbon. Sometimes a second cross just like the first is fastened to the ribbon exactly on the reverse side to correspond with it, thus forming a very handsome finish for the ends of the book-marker. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. The Maltese, St. Andrew's, and other forms of crosses may also be managed in the same way. Another form of book- markermaybe made out of American leather pret- tily painted. The leather is cut in the shape of along triangle, then two long slits are cut at the sides (as shown in the sketch), so as to make a sort of flap. Another way of making these is to cut out with a very sharp pair of scissors a roughly shaped hand from the piece of leather and leave this also loose from the rest in flap fashion. Various other shapes may be man- aged in a similar mannei'. Kid, if it can be obtained, is a very nice material to use for the purpose. They may also be made of cardboard, on which white or cream-coloured satin has previously been stuck, and this, of course, is as pleasant to paint on as the kid. HOLLAND CHATELAINES. These are very useful and convenient for people who do much work, and may, if desired, be made very ornamental by the aid of a better material than hoUand and embroidery as decoration. Cut a piece of hoUand measuring 25 inches long and 3 inches wide. Double it neatly and straight, and run on 2 or 3 rows of either plain or wavy scarlet braid. Sew on a hook and eye or button and loop to fasten the waistband with. Make in the- same way, five narrow bands of holland about 7 inches long and i inch wide, trim these also with braid to match the waistband, and sew them firmly to the band close together. At the ends of these bands should be fastened a pair of folding scissors, a thiihble, 2 reels of cotton, a needlebook and a flat pincushion. The thimble should be stowed in a tiny holland bag, cut the shape of a thimble, but of course much larger. The upper part of the bag should have a hem made in it, and a piece of elastic drawn up rather tight to close the mouth of it. The reels of cotton should be thus managed. Take a piece of rather stout wire, cover it neatly by twisting brown holland round and round it. Fasten one end to the end of the holland strap, thread the two reels of cotton on to it, then bend the rest of the wire round to the end of the strap again, and stitch it do-wn firmly and neatly. The needle-case may be made very simply by taking a strip of holland 2 inches wide, and about 6 or 8 inches long. Turn down the edges and stitch in a flat lining of flannel, leaving out a stitch on each side at the end, so that a bodkin can be slipped in between the flannel and the holland. The needles are stuck in the flannel accross the length of the strip so that it all rolls up into a compact little parcel. The numbers of the needles may be em- broidered on the flannel if desired. A button and loop or a band of elastic should be added to keep it closed when it is rolled up. The pincushion may be made by simply covering 2 rounds of card with the holland, and then sewing them together. The pins are stuck in round the edges between the stitches. A loop of narrow ribbon should be added by which the pincushion can be sewn to the holland band. The scissors may be enclosed in a little bag like the thimble if it is not considered safe for them to be totally unpro- tected. A satchel should next be manufactured for the other side of the holland waist-band. There are many different shapes of work-bag that may be adapted to this purpose, either an ordinary bag with the corners rounded, and an elastic run in at the top to keep it closed, or it may be made in the shape of a large envelope with a loop and a button to keep the flap closed. Two narrow flat bands must be added to the top of this envelope by which it also can be attached to the waist-band. FAN PINCUSHION. This is a very simple little pincushion, and may be made ex- ceedingly dainty and pretty with the expen- diture of little besides care and patience. Cut 2 pieces of card the shape of an open fan, and 2 pieces of satin half an inch larger all round than the cards. Ornament one of these pieces of of satin with lines of gold coloured silk radiating from the pointed end like the folds of a fan. Embroider a very minute delicate spray of forget-me-nots or some similar tiny flowers across the upper part as the painting is managed in a full sized fan. Now cover the card with the pieces of satin, by running a gathering about a quarter of an inch away from the edge and drawing it up tightly round the card, being careful to finish off the end securely. When both pieces of card are covered in this way, sew them together with stitches that are not too close together or the pins will not go in easily. Add a gold cord and tassels to the point to finish off the fan with and to serve as a loop to hang it up by, if necessary. All kinds of pretty pincushions may be made in this way simply by varying the shape of the card. For instance, they may be made like violins, guitars, flags, butterflies, leaves, bellows, &c. Macrame Work. FRINGES. No. 36. Along a double foundation thread, knot a number of strands of thread, folded in half and measuring about 32 inches long. The number must be divisible by 6. ist row — with a double thread laid across the strands, 2 buttonhole stitches with each strand over the horizontal thread. 2nd row — 12 strands are required for one pattern, * i double knot, with the 31 d to the loth strand, using the centre 4 as a founda- tion, and the outer ones to form the knots, i double knot with the nth and 12th, and ist and 2nd of next pattern ; repeat from *. 3rd row — place the ist of the 12 strands slantwise over the 2nd to the 6th strands, and knot with each of the latter 2 buttonhole knots over the slanting strand; place the 12th strand aslant over nth to the 7th, and knot as above ; repeat from *. 4th and 5 th rows — like tire 2nd and 3rd, but with the pattern in reversed position. 6th row— like the 2nd. 7th row— like the ist. 8th and 9th row — like the 2nd and 3rd. loth row— I double knot, with centre 4 strands of each pattern, leaving the other strands un- touched, nth row (see illustrations for dis- tances) — * place the 6th strand aslant over the 5th to the 1st, and work with each of the latter 2 buttonhole stitches over the 6th, place the 7th over the 8th to the 12th strand, and work 5 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. over it as above; repeat from *. 12th row — * i tatted knot wfth the 2nd over the ist, and with the nth over the 12th. i double knot as before, with centre 8 strands. 13th row — like the 3rd. 14th and 15th rows— like the nth and 12th, but without the tatted knots. i6th row (see illustrations for distances) — i double knot, with each 12 strands, repeat, then thread 8 strands 4 inches long through the centre of each loop, tie them round to form a tassel, and cut the ends even. No. 37. Requires a foundation thread with strands 14 inches long, folded in half, and fastened on at regular intervals. The 1st row is begun trom the left, 2 buttonhole loops being knotted with each end over the doubled horizontal thread. 2nd row — i double knot with the 1st 4 strands of thread. 3rd row — like the ist. 4th row — 20 strands are required for each pattern. * Take the 1st strand for a foundation thread, and, working from left to right, make 2 buttonhole knots with each of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th strands ; then take the 8th strand as a foundation, and working from right to left make 2 buttonhole loops with the 7th, 6th, and 5th strands respectively; then with the 9th and loth and the 19th and 24th strands respectively, make 3 double, followed by i single button- hole loop, with the nth and 12th and the 17th and i8th strand, 2 double and i single buttonhole loop, with the 13th and 14th and the 15th and 1 6th strands, i double and i single buttonhole loop ; repeat from *. 5 th row — * cross the 14th and 15th strands and work from right to left, working with the 13th, 12th, nth, loth, and 9th ends in succes- sion, 2 button hole loops over the 15th strand, then from left to right make with the ifth, 'i7thV"i"8th, 19th and 20th strands, 2 double buttonhole loops over the T4th strand, then work with the ist to the 8th strand in the same way as in the 4th row, consulting the illustration, taking in the 15th strand where the buttonhole loops end after the ist buttonhole loop has been made with the 7th strand over the 8th ; then going back, take in the strands of thread, and then knot the 2 buttonhole loops with the 8th strand ; repeat from *. At each repetition the 14th strand must be taken in with the 2nd strand of the next pattern. 6th row — * take the 4th strand as a foundation and make 2 buttonhole loops wi'h the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th strands respectively, then use the 5th end as a foundation, and make the loops with the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st strands, work in the same way with the 9th to the 20th strand as in the last row, not crossing the 14th and 15th strands, but always using as a foundation the strand nearest to the end where the knotting begins; repeat from *. 7th row — like the last. The centre 2 of the 8 strands are not crossed, but knotted in the same way as the last 12 strands of this pattern ; then follow 3 inserted rows as follows, which are knotted with the centre 6 of the last 12 of each pattern. In the 1st of these 3 rows the 3rd strand, in the 2nd, and in the 3rd the 1st strand must be used as a foundation thread, and then making 2 buttonhole loops with the 4th, 5th, and 6th strands respectively ; then repeat once the 4th to the 7th row, but in the reverse order, winding in the ist row the 7th strand round the 15th, and the 2nd round the 14th of the previous pattern. In the last of these 4 rows make 3 double buttonhole loops with every 2 of the last 1 2 strands of each pattern. 1 2th row — * the i st strand of the next pattern but i serves as foundation thread for the next pattern, making over It 2 buttonhole loops with the 20th, 19th, i8th, 17th, and i6th strands respectively, with the 1 5th strand, 4 buttonhole loops over the same then take the 8th strand as a foundation, and make over it 2 but- tonhole loops with the 9th, loth, nth, 12th and 13th strands respec- tively, and with the ist strand of the following pattern, which has been used as a foundation thread. Four loops are then knotted with the 14th strand, the other strands are left unnoticed ; repeat from* 13th row — like the last. The 7th strand is used as the foundation for the first 6 strands, and the 2nd strand of the next pattern but one is used as the foundation for the last 6 strands of the next pattern. In- stead of the 4 buttonhole loops worked with the 14th and 15th 6 strands, only 2 must be knotted, and with the first end of the next pattern which formed the foundation thread of the last row work 2 buttonhole loops. 14th row— like the 2nd. Then knot together the 4 next ends as shown in the illustration, and cut the ends even. No. 38. Along a doubled foundation knot a number of strands divisible by 8, and i yard long, doubled in half, ist row : Over a second foundation strand work a cord. 2nd row : Every pattern requires 16 strands, place the 8th 3 times as leader over 7th to ist, and with them work Macram6 knots ; in the same manner, but in reverse position, work a similar pattern, with loth to i6th strands over the 9th. 3rd row : Leave the 2 first strands unnoticed, with the 3rd to 14th, I large double knot with 3 strands from each side over the 6 centre strands, leave 15th strand un- noticed, with the first strand of next pattern, i Macram6 knot over the i6th strand. 4th row : Like the 2nd, but in reverse position. 5th row : With the 1st over 2nd and 3rd as foundation, 9 tatted knots, with the 4th over Sth and 6th, 6 tatted knots, with 7th and loth over Sth and 9th as foundation, 3 double knots, then with 13th over 12th and nth, 6 tatted knots, with l6th over 15th and 14th, 9 tatted knots. 6th to 9th rows : Like 2nd to 4th. loth row : With every 1 5 ctrands i double knot, using the centre 1 z i" foundation, then take 6 new strands 5 m lies long, double them in half and hang them over the knot, then 1 ind the 4 that formed the knot and the 12 new ends firmly into a tassel. The remaining 12 ends must be securely turned up and stitched at the back, then cut off. INSERTION. No. 39. Knotted with very fine thread, and worked the long way, and is begun by tying double threads, of a yard long, to a double founda- tion thread, ist row : Over a doubled horizontal thread, laid across the knotted strands, work 2 buttonhole-knots with every strand. 2nd row : , i double knot with every 4 stranHs. 3rd row : Like the ist row. 4th row : Measure the distances from the illustration, and remember that the strands are numbered accord- ing to their apparent order in the course of the work. For one diagonal pattern take 6 strands, 3 times alternately place the 6th strand aslant over the 5th 4th, 3rd, 2nd and 1st, and work over it 2 buttonhole loops with each of the latter in succession. 5th ..row : Like the ist. 6th row : Ljtee the 4th, but in reversed position. 7th to 9th rows : Like the ist to the 3rd. loth row : With 16 strands. To form the diamond, place twice alternately the 3l^' strand diagonally across the other 7, and with the latter work 2 buttonhole loops over the diagonal line; then work the same pattern in reversed position with the gth to the l6th strands ; then with the centre 12 strands, taking the first 3 and the last 3 together, and working with them i double knot over the other 6 ; then 2 patterns in reversed position, according to the illustration. The 4 knotted bars also take 16 strands, 4 to each bar, 6 times alternately i buttonhole knot with the ist and 2nd end together over the 3rd and 4th together, and one buttonhole knot with the latter over the 1st and 2nd. When this row is finished ; repeat 9 rows like the first 9, in reversed position. The pro- jecting threads are then fastened on the wrong side, and cut off. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Knitting. PINCUSHION COVER. Materials required : 5 needles No. 16, 2 skeins of Carlile's Cro- chet cotton No. 16. Cast on 4 stitches, i on each of 4 needles, join. 1st round — make i (by bringing the wool forward), knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 2nd round — plain. 3rd round — make i, knit I, make i, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 4th round — plain. 5th round — make i, knit I, make i, knit I, make i, knit i, make I, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 6th round — purl i, knit 5, purl I, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 7th round — make i, knit 3, make i, knit i, make i, knit 3, make i, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 8th round — purl 2, knit 7, purl 2, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 9th round — make i, knit 5, make i, knit i, make i, knit 5, make i, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. loth round — purl 3, knit 9, purl 3, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. lith round — make i, knit 7, make I, knit I, make i, knit 7, make I, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 12th round — purl 4, knit 1 1, purl 4, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 13th round — make i, knit 9, make i, knit i, make i, knit 9, make i^ knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 14th round- purl 5, knit ij, purl 5, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 15th round — make i, knit ii, make f, knit i, make i, knit 11, make i, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. i6th round — purl 6, knit 15, purl 6, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 17th round — make I, knit 13, make 1, knit i, make I, knit 13, make i, knit i. ; repeat on the other 3 needles. i8th round — purl 7, knit 17, purl 7, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 19th round — make i, knit 15, make i, knit I, make i, knit 15, make i, knit 1 ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 20th round — purl 8, knit 19, purl 8, knit i ; repeat on the other3 needles. 21st round— make i, knit 8, slip i, knit I, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted i, knit 16, slip the next stitch over the last of the 16, knit 8, make i, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 22nd round— purl 9, knit 17, purl 9, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 23rd round — make i, knit 9, decrease as before, knit 14, decrease like the 2nd time in 21st round, knit 9, make I, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 24th round — purl 10, knit 15, purl lo, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 2Sth round — make I, knit 10, decrease, knit 12, decrease, knit ID, make I, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 26th round — purl II, knit 13, purl 11, knit i; repeat on the other 3 needles. 27th round — make i, knit 11, decrease, knit 10, decrease, knit II, make i, knit i; repeat on the other 3 needles. 2Sth lound — purl 12, knit 1 1, purl 12, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 29th round— make i, knit 12, decrease, knit 8, decrease, knit 12, make I, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 30th round — purl 13, knit 9, purl 13, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 31st round — make i, knit 13, decrease, knit 6, decrease, knit 13, make i, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 32nd round— purl 14, knit 7, purl 14, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 33rd round — make i, knit 14, decrease, knit 4, de- crease, knit 14, make i,knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 34th round— purl 15, knit 5, purl 15, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 35th round — make i, knit 15, decrease, knit 2, decrease, knit 15, 7 make i,knit i; repeat on the other 3 needles. 36th round — purl 16, knit 3, purl 16, knit i ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 37th round— make i, knit 16, decrease, decrease, knit 16, make i, knit I ; repeat on the other 3 needles. 38th round— purl 35, knit i, repeat on the other 3 needles. 39th round—** make i, knit i, ♦ make i, knit 2 together ; repeat from * to the end of the needle, finishing by make i, knit i ; repeat from **on the other 3 needles. 40th round— plain. 41st round — like 39th. 42nd round— plain. 43rd round—* make i, knit i, make i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted i, knit 4, slip the next siitch over the last of the 4 ; repeat from * to the end of the round; at the end of each needle knit 4, make i, knit i. 44th round — plain. 45th round—* make i, knit 3, make i, slip i, knii i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, slip the next stitch over the last of the 2 ; repeat from * to the end of the round; at the end of each needle make i, knit i, make l, knit i. 46th round — plain. 47th round—* make i, knit 5, make i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, and the next stitch over the same; repeat from* to the end of the round ; at the end of each needle make I, knit 3, make i, knit i. 48th round — plain. 49th round — ** make i, knit 6, slip the next stitch over the last of the 6, *makei,knit i, make i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, slip the next stitch over the last of the 4 ; repeat from * to end of needle, where knit 3, make i, knit I ; repeat from ** on the other 3 needles. 50th round- plain. 51st round — ** make i, knit 2, make i, * slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, slip the next stitch over the last of the 2, make i, knit 3, make i ; repeat from * to end of needle, where knit 3, make i, knit i; repeat from** on the other 3needles. 52nd round — plain. 53rd round — **make i, knit 4, make i,*slip i, knit I, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, slip the next stitch over the same, make i, knit 5, make i ; repeat from * to end of needle, where make i, knit 2, make r, knit i ; repe.it from ** on the other 3 needles. S4th round — plain. S5th round — ** make i, knit I, * make i, knit 2 together ; repeat from * to end of needle, finishing by make i, knit i ; repeat from ** on the other 3 needles. S6th round — ^plain. 57th round — like 55th. 58th round — plain. Cast off. Knit a plain square the same size for the back, sew them together and sew on the border. Directions for border. Cast on 12 stitches. In these directions 2 rows are counted as i. ist row — knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, turn, slip i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip I, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip l, purl 4, knit plain to end of row. 2nd row— knit 4, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, purl 5, turn, slip I, knit 4, turn, purl 5, turn, slip i, knit 4, turn, purl 5, turn, slip I, knit plain to end of row. 3rd row — knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make i,knit 5, turn, slip i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip i, purl 4, knit plain to end of row. 4th row — knit 6, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make l, purl 5,!turn, slip i, knit 4, turn, purl S,Uurn, slip i, knit 4, turn, purl 5, turn, slip I, knit plain to end of row. 5th row — knit 7, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make l, knit 5, Airn, slip i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip I, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn,' slip i, purl 4, knit plain to end of row. 6th row — knit 8, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, purl 5, 'turn, slip i, knit 4, turn, purl 5,|turru slip i, knit 4, • turn! purl 5, turn, shp i, knit plain to end of row. / 7th row — knit l 9, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 togeiher,/make i, knit 5, kurn, slip i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip i, DurJ 4, turn, knit 5, lUrn, slip i, purl 4, knit plain to end of row. IStn row — knit 10, inake i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 togetner, make i, purl ^,1 turn, slip i, knit 4; turn, purl 5, turn, slip l, knit 4, turn, purl 5,' turn, slip i, knit plain to end of row. /9th row — knit 8, knit 2 to- gether, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4J turn, shp i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip i, purl 4, knit plain to end of row. / loth row — knit 7, knit 2 together, make i, knit p together, make 17 knit 2 together, make i, purl 2 together, purl 4,ltum, slip i, knit 4, turn, purl 5, turn, slip i, knit 4, turn', purl 5, tuni, slip i, knit plain to end of row. 11 throw-knit 6, knit 2 together, make i,knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, turn, slip i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip l, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip l, purl 4, knit plain to end of row. U2th row — knit 5, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i,\knit 2 together, make i,purl 2 together, purl 4, ium, slip I, knit 4, tiirn, purl 5, turn, sUp 1, knit 4, turn, purl 5, turn, slip I, knit plain to end of row. 13th row — knit 4, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make |, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, turn, slip i, purl 4, turn,' knit 5, turn, shp i, purl 4, turn, knit 5, turn, slip l, purl 4, knit plain to end of row. 14th row— knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, purl 2 together, purl 4, turn, slip i, knit 4, turn, purl 5, turn, slip i, knit 4, turn, purl 5, turn, slip i,knit plain to end of row. 15th row — knit 3, knit 3 together, make i, knit z THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 tog^ her, knit 4, turn, slip I, purl '4, turn, knit 5, turn sl^ I, P^^^l 4, turn kn^ . turn slip I, purl 4, knit plain to end of row. /^th row-knit i, knit 2 together, make l, knit 2 together, make i.knit 2 together, make I, purl 2 together, purl 4, t"™. ^^'P /^^"^4, turn P"rl 5, turn.slip I, knit 4, turn, purl S, turn, slip I, knit plain to end of row. Repeat until you have 24 patterns, then cast oh, LADY'S PRINCESS BONNET. This pretty and becoming bonnet will be found extremely useful for garden wear. It has a crown in ridge treble and a border of loop knit- ting. It is best made of Baldwin's Beehive wool, of which 2 ozs. are re- quired, navy blue or any colour pre- ferred. You will also require a Pene- lope bone crochet hook, No. o, a pair of 16 steel knitting needles, li yards of 2 inch wide satin ribbon for strings, and a quarter yard of satin for lining. Commence with the crown, make a chain of 57, turn, work i treble into 2nd chain, i treble into every chain to end of row. 2nd row-2 chain to turn, 2 treble in o ist stitch, I treble into every treble across row, always picking up tne back loop ; repeat the 2nd row 16 times more. You have now 43 trebles. 21st row— pass over the ist stitch, I treble into every treble across row till you reach the last, which also pass over. Kepeat the 2 1 St row 7 times more. You will now have 25 trebles, lasten off. For the brim, cast on 9 stitches, ist row— plain. 2nd row knit I plain, * make a loop by winding the wool twice round your middle finger, and knitting the stitch as usual, knit i plain ana repeat from * 3 times more. Repeat the ist and 2nd rows 24 times more, increasing a stitch by knitting the front and back ot tne last stitch in last plain row. This will give $ loops in next loop row. Knit 8 rows of 5 loops with a plain row between each. Now increase to 6 loops (always increase on the same side), do 10 ''ows of 6 loops, increase to 7 loops, and do 4 rows, increase to 8, and do 6 rows, increase to 9, and do 4 rows, increase to 10, and do 22 rows, decrease by knitting 2 stitches together to 9, do 4 rows, decrease to S, ana do 6 rows, decrease to 7, and do 4 rows, decrease to 6, and ao 10 rows. Decrease to 5, and do 8 rows. Decrease to 4, and ao 50 rows, as you require a piece to go across back. Join the enas together, and pin the widest part to centre of crown, and sew care- fully in, putting the straight part towards face,^eatly line the crown, and sew on the strings, and the bonnet is complete. GERMAN PATTERN IN KNITTING. Both Sides alike. For antimacassar cast on 71 stitches. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — purl 2 together, make I by passing the cotton ;ii!i}! round the needle, slip and repeat. At the end of the row, if cor- there will which purl. like the When knitted proper size, finish ith fringe or 5 6. NEW PATTERNS FOR BEADED CUFFS. In No. I of The Fancy Work-Basket are given very minute and clear directions for the manipulation of the beads in making beaded cuffs. We do not intend to repeat these, but simply to give more patterns which can easily be carried out by anyone who has once mastered the difficulties of working in the beads. We shall keep to the same way of describing the stitches, viz ; plain for a stitch without a bead and bead for a stitch with a bead. The first pattern We shall give is of a double fringe at each edge and a series of tiny stars in the middle. The cuffs thus made are very handsome and look well worked with black wool and gold, steel or plomb beads. Cast on 38. Knit a plain row, remember that every other row is to be knitted plain, that is every row with an uneven number. 2nd row— knit i, slip 3 stitches as if for purling, pass along 5 beads, knit I, knit 2 with beads, slip 3, pass along 5 beads, knit i, knit 2 with beads, knit 2 plain, i bead, knit 3, i bead, 3 plain, i bead, 2 plain, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, knit i at the end. 3rd row and every alternate row— plain (this will not be re- peated). 4th row— I plain, slip 3, S beads, 2 beads, i plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads, i plain, 3 beads, i plain, 2 beads, slip 3, S beads, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, i plain. 6th row— like the 2nd. 8th row —I plain, slip 3, 5 beads, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, 2 beads, 4 plain, 1 bead, 3 plain, i bead, 4 plain, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, I plain. loth row— i plain, slip 3, 5 beads, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, 2 beads, 3 plain, 3 beads, i plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, 2 beads, slip 3, 5 beads, i plain. 12th row —like the 8th. Repeat from the 2nd row till there are about 24 or 26 rows of stars according to whether you are a tight or a loose THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. knitter or -whether the cuffs are for a stout or slender wrist. For the future we shall give the centre pattern only, and omit the fringes at either edge. This fringe is always worked in the same way — by slipping 3 stitches and passing along 5 beads — so there is no need to repeat it. Pattern 2. A pattern somewhat resembling the links of a chain. It is 7 stitches wide in itself. This will be considered rather narrow, but it should of course be finished by a fringe at one edge, or both. The cuffs may be of any width most required by the worker, they need not necessarily be bracelet cuffs like those we have first described. 3nd row — 7 beads. 4th row— i bead, i plain, 1 bead, i plain, i bead, i plain, 1 bead. 6th row — i bead, i plain, 3 beads, i plain, i bead. 8th row— i bead, S plain, i bead. loth row — like tlie 6tli. 12th row — like the 4th. 14th row — like the 2nd. i6th row — 2 plain, I bead, i plain, i bead, 2 plain. 1 8th row — commence again from the 2nd row. Pattern 3 is very simple and similar to No. i. It would look well worked over the whole of the cuffs. 2nd row — i bead, i plain, all along. 4th row — I plain, i bead, * 3 plain, i bead, repeat from * 6th row — like the 2nd. 8th row^all plain. Repeat the pattern from the 2nd row. Pattern 4 is also narrow and simple, but very effective. Two rows of it would look well on cuffs with a wider pattern between them. Five stitches only are required. 2nd row — 2 plain, I bead, 2 plain. 4th row — i plain, i bead, i plain, i bead, i plain. 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th, and i6th rows— i bead, 3 plain, I bead. i8th row — i plain, i bead, i plain, i bead, I plain. 20th row — repeat again from the ist row. Pattern 5 is a handsome one and forms a series of St. Andrew's crosses. Cast on 13. 2nd row — I plain, 3 beads, 5 plain, 3 beads, i plain. 4th row — i plain, i bead, i plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 2 beads, i plain, I bead. 6th row — I plain, 3 beads, i plain, i bead, 3 plain, i bead, i plain, 2 beads, 1 plain. 8th row — 2 plain, 3 beads, I plain, i bead, i plain, 3 beads, 2 plain. loth row — 5 plain, 3 beads, 5 plain. 12th row — 4 plain, 2 beads, i plain, 2 beads, 4 plain. 14th row — like loth. 16th row — like 8th. i8th row — like 6th. 2otli row — like 4th. 22nd row — like 2nd. Then knit 3 rows plain and begin again at the 2nd row. Pattern 6 is perhaps the handsomest of all, forming a design of diamonds filled in -with beads. Cast on 14. 2nd row — 6 plain, 2 beads, 6 plain. 4th row — like 2nd. 6th row— 5 plain, i bead, 2 plain I bead, 5 plain. 8th row — 4 plain, i bead, 4 plain, i bead, 4 plain. loth row — 3 plain, I bead, 2 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, i bead, 3 plain, I2th row — 2 plain, i bead, 2 plain, 4 beads, 3 plain, i bead, 2 plain. 14th row — 2 beads, 2 plain, 6 beads, 2 plain, 2 beads. l6th row — like 14th. i8th row — like 12th. 20th row — like loth. 22nd row — like 8th. 24th row — like 6th. 26th row — like 4th. 28th row — like 2nd. Repeat the pattern from the 4th row. FRINGE. This is a useful pattern, and is suitable for a variety of purposes, according to the material used. Our model was made with double Berlin wool, and 2 knitting needles, No. 11. Cast on 20 stitches. 1st row — * throw the wool quite round the needle to make a stitch, purl 2 stitches together, repeat from ■* to the end of the row, Every row is the same as the ist row. When the length required is worked, cast off lO stitches, and slip the remaining 10 off the needles and pull down all the way along for the fringe, having first fastened off the wool. LADIE.S' VEST. Half a pound of Angola, No. I, steel knitting needles. No. 14. Cast 011 170 stitches, knit 24 rows plain, which leaves 12 ridges on both sides. 25th row — knit 8 plain, always slipping the ist stitch, then purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, until you have 8 left on the needle, knit those 8 plain. 26th row — knit 10 plain, ■* purl 2, knit 2 ; re- peat from-* till you have 10 left, knit those 10 plain ; repeat these 2 rows until you have 78 ridges along the edge. Then you com- mence to narrow, knit the first 8 plain, as in pre- vious rows, then take 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, repeat from ■*, till you have 10 left on the needle, take 3 together, knit 8 plain ; ne.\t row — knit 8 plain, purl i, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, till you have 8 left, knit those plain ; repeat until you have 10 more ridges, then narrow again as before ; you repeat this 4 times more, always having the ridges between. When you have done 123 ridges on both sides you knit 6 rows plain, which leaves 3 ridges. Then you commence again by knitting the 8 plain, and purl 2, knit 2, as before till you have done 4 more ridges, then you finish oft by knit- ting 6 more rows plain. This makes one side of the vest only. The other side is done in exactly the same manner. For the Shoulders. Cast on 30 stitches, knit 6 rows plain, which leaves 3 ridges on both sides. 7th row — knit 10, purl 10, knit 10. 8th row — all plain knitting ; repeat these 2 rows until you have 26 ridges, then finish by knitting 6 rows plain. Knitted Edge for Neck and Armhole. Cast on 5 stitches, ist row — slip i,knit i,make i,take 2 together, knit I. 2nd row — slip i, knit I, then knit i, but still keep the stitch on the left needle, and make i, then knit i, by the same slitch you left on the needle, knit 2. 3rd row — slip i, knit to the end of the needle. 4th row — slip i, knit i, then slip the slipped one over the knitted one, knit i, slip the other over, which leaves you 5 stitches again ; repeat thus till you have 104 points for the neck, and 48 for the armhole, then stitch all together. KETTLE HOLDER. Small ivory pins and single Berlin wool of 2 contrasting colours, say black and amber. Cast on 36 with black and knit back, ist row — knit 3 black, 6 amber, 6 black, 6 an-iber, 6 black, 6 amber, 3 black, pass the wool that is out of use round at the back and draw- ing it rather tight every time it is taken up. 2nd row — 3 black, 6 amber, 6 black, 6 amber, 6 black, 6 amber, 3 black, this row and every row with an even number may be knitted or purled according to fancy, the wool must in either case be pulled tightly round in the front. 3rd and 5th rows — like the ist. 4th and 6th rows — like the 2nd. 7th row — knit 9 black, 6 amber, 6 black, 6 amber, 9 black. 8th row — knit 9 black, 6 amber, 6 black, 6 amber, 9 black. This row must be either knitted or purled according to the 2nd row. 9th and nth rows — like the 7th. 12th row — like the 8th. Repeat these 12 rows, then the kettle holder will probably be long enough. Finish it with 2 rows of black, knitted plain to correspond with the 1st row. The result should be a chequer of small squares, smooth or ribbed according as they are knitted or purled, surrounded by a ribbed edge of one colour, and if the wools that are slipped have been pulled tightly enough, it will curl up round the kettle handle of its own accord. Small, natty bows of ribbon to match the wool may be added as a finish at the two ends of the holder, and one of the loops made larger than the others so that it can be hung up. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. IMPROVED METHOD OF CASTING ON STITCHES. Knitters, even when experienced, are frequently at a loss to gauge the length of wool or cotton to leave for casting on a given number of stitches when commencing a piece of work, and it is certainly provoking when a long row is almost finished to find the wool running short, and consequently having to rip out and begin the work all over again. The following method quite obviates any such possibility. It is quite as simple as the ordinary way of casting on, and equally elastic. Put one of the knitting needles through a loop of the wool a few inches from the end, twist the needle round so as to form a stitch, bring this stitch to the right point of the needle, and hold it and the needle firmly between the thumb and first finger of the left hand. Take the wool (not the short end) and a second needle into the right hand * put the needle through the front part of the last stitch, throw the wool over this needle, and bring it through the stitch as in ordinary knitting, but without taking the stitch off the left hand needle, draw out the loop now on the right hand needle a little, and bring it and the point of the right needle behind the left needle. Keep the left needle to the front of the loop that is on the right hand needle (otherwise the stitch will not form properly) and then slip it backwards off the right on to the left needle ; there are now 2 stitches on the left needle ; repeat from * till the required number of stitches are" cast on. After a few stitches have been made, and the worker gets into the way of slip- ping the stitch backwards, this method of casting on is usually liked and generally adopted, TEA COSY. The pattern one is worked in Berlin wool, of which it took an ounce of each colour, and half an ounce of black and the same of yellow, and with bone needles, No. 8. The stitch throughout is brioche, — wool forward, slip i, ►take 2 together. Cast on 70 stitches in black, and knit back, then knit 2 rows of yellow, leaving 2 ribs of the black at top, then 2 rows of black, knitting them to the top and back, then join on the red and knit up to the 12th rib, then turn and knit back. Next row— take in the 13th rib, and turn. Work thus, taking in an extra rib each time you get to the 2 ribs of black at top which you leave as you did in yellow row, then you turn, and when you get to the bottom, tie on the black and work 2 rows from bottom to top and back again, then tie on the yellow and work straight up, only leaving the 2 ribs of black at top, and back, then tie on the other colour and work as you did the red. The cosy is worked throughout the same and has 12 stripes in it. The top IS worked thus : cast on 5 stitches, and work in loop knitting, 2 rows of black, 2 of yellow and 2 of each colour, 1 1 rows, and cast off. Sew round into a knot and sew on top of cosy. Line cosy with wadding and red flannel, and put a cord round bottom. TEAPOT HOLDER. TO MATCH. Worked in Berlin wool with steel needles, No. 16, and takes half an ounce of each colour. Workedall in plain knit- ting. Cast on 55 stitches with red or any coloured wool you like. 1st row — plain. Next row— plain 10, join on the other colour but do not break off the red, the wool must be carried along the back, plain 7 with the other colour, plain 7 with red, plain 7 with the other colour, plain 7 with red, plain 7 with the other colour, plain 10 with red. Next row — plain 10 with red, bring the red for- ward, and take the other back between the needles, and plain 7, then bring the red forward and plain 7, continue thus to end or row, ending with 10 plain ; repeat thus till you have 4 ribs of red, then reverse the colours by plaining 17 red, then 7 of the other, then 7 red and so on, plaining 17 red at the end ; repeat this unto there are 4 ribs of red, then reverse again and do as at first. Con- tinue this until there are 7 squares of red knitted in the length Cast off, and sew up the ends and finish with a tassel at elch end INFANT'S VEST. Knitted in any soft white wool. Cast on 60 stitches, knit 3 rows and purl 3 rows for 18 rows ; cast off 12 stitches, work 3 rows plain, and 3 rows purl for 45 rows ; cast on 12 stitches and work 18 rows, 3 rows plain, 3 rows purl. Knit the other half the same, join the shoulders and sides, leaving armholes. For an edge round neck and arms, work a scallop of 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, all into the same stitch, i double crochet , and repeat. TRAVELLING CAP. This pretty and comfortable cap is made of double Berlin wool. The wool is used double, which makes the cap nice and firm, and causes it to keep in shape without lining. 4 ozs. of wool are required, and 2 thick wooden knitting needles, size No. 3. To begin, cast on 33 stitches with the double wool. 1st row — knit i, purl i. 2nd row— same as first row, making the knitted stitches come above the purled stitches of last row, so as to form a little dice pattern. Repeat these 2 rows until 5 finger lengths are worked ; it will be about 80 rows. Cast off. Noth- ing now remains to be done but to make up the cap. Sew the first and last rows together on the wrong side for 1 5 stitches from the edge, with a single thread of the wool. Sew the remaining 15 stitches together on the right side. Form the crown by gathering 1 edge of the cap together with a rug needle and a double thread of the wool, on the wrong side of the cap, taking care to sew it very strongly. Turn up the other edge for 4 inches on the right side to form the brim. The model cap is knitted of deep claret coloured wool, but any other colour may be used instead, if preferred. Navy blue, black, or dark green look very well. New Edition. Just Out. Price Twopence. HOAV TO DANCE, By an M.C. Giving the Steps and Figures of all the New and Country Dances, with Dictionary of French Terms used in Dancing ; Illustrations of Bail-Room Dressing, Hair-dressing, &c. Post free, Three Stamps. POCKET EDITION, handsomely bound, sent free by post in envelope for 7 stamps. K. Caetweight, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, B.C. NOTICE.— No. a of the 'Taney Work-Basket" contains Knitting, and How to set about it, also How to Shape Stockings of 1 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, HANDSOME SHAWL. Leaf Pattern. Materials required for a shawl 2 yards square: — Baldwin's Beehive Berlin fingering 30 skeins, wood needles No. 2 ; Walker gauge. Cast on 241 stitches, allowing 7 stitches each pattern, and 5 plain at each end, knit 7 plain rows, ist row of pattern — thread forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2, and repeat. 2nd row — all purl. 3rd row — knit I, thread forward, knit 1, slip i, knit i, pass slipped I over, knit 2 together, knit i, thread forward, and repeat. 4th row — all purl. 5th row — knit 2, thread forward, slip I, knit I, pass slipped i over, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit I, and repeat. 6th row — all purl. 7th row — knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 3, and repeat. 8th row — all purl. 9th row — knit 2 together, knit i, thread forward, knit i, thread forward, knit I, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped i over, and repeat. loth row — all purl, nth row — knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip I, knit I, pass slipped i over, and repeat. 12th row— all purl. Go back to ist row. The shawl is worked throughout like this and finished by 7 plain rows ; put a rich knotted fringe all round it. EMIGRANT'S VEST. Materials required : — 2 bone or wood knitting pins No. 6, 5 ozs. best Scotch fingering wool in red, black, brown or cardinal, 6 bone but- tons to match colour of wool used. This very useful vest is simply a long piece of plain knit- ting which is so easily made, and then it is shaped by sewing up. Cast on 48 stitches tolerably loose and work backwards and forwards in plain knit- ting for a length of 42 inches. Cast off loosely to correspond with the other end, sew the 2 ends veiy neatly, and strongly together, then fold the piece of work e.xactly in half, leaving the seam to come down the centre of the back, or one half, now sew up very securely, but leaving room for the armholes. You must now work a border all round the piece of knitting by crocheting with a bone hook about No. 8, i chain, 3 treble at equal distances, say about ^ an inch between all round. 2nd row — work 7 long treble in one hole, i double crochet in the next, which will form a nice scallop; do this all round, and work round armholes in just the same way. Turn over a piece of the border, and tack down with a needleful of wool about the length across the back, this will form the neck, sew on the buttons the left side, a little way in, beginning from where you finished turning over the border, then crochet loops on the other side to button by, for which use a steel crochet hook. No. i, or a very fine bone one will do; work 7 chain if for a large button, and fill up with double crochet; fasten off firmly through the wrong side. The vest will then be complete, and is the size for a medium figure. It can easily be enlarged by increasing number of stitches, or using Alloa yarn, and a size larger knitting pins, and is very useful for wearing under a cloak, or indoors, as it forms a kind of Zouave jacket; it can also be used as an under bodice, and is most useful for gifts to travellers and poor people. LADIES' PETTICOAT. Kilt Plait Pattern and Tricot. Materials re- quired : — 4 cuts Alloa yarn (Shet- land grey, and i cut do. scarlet), 2 wooden pins, J an inch thick, I cro- chet hook, barely I inch thick, and 12 inches long, 2 steel needles, | of an inch thick, (with knobs), 2 y ards scarlet braid. This petti- coat is done in 3 widths, viz., 2 sides of 120 stitches each, and i front of 140 stitches in kilt pleat as fol- lows, (10 stitches to a pattern), and knit with the wooden pins, ist row — 9 plain, i purl to end. 2nd row — 2 plain, 8 end. 4th row — 6th row — 8th row — loth row — 12th row — 14th row — 1 6th row — The style 6 plain, 4 purl to end. 8 plain, 2 purl to end. 8 plain, 2 purl to end. 6 plain, 4 purl to end. 4 plain, 6 purl to end. 2 plain, 8 purl to end. purL'to end. 3rd row — 7 plain, 3 purl to 4 plain, 6 purl to end. 5th row — 5 plain, 5 purl to end. 7th row^3 plain, 7 purl to end. 9th row — I plain, 9 purl to end. nth row — 3 plain, 7 purl to end. 13th row — 5 plain, 5 purl to end. 1 5th row — 7 plain, 3 purl to end. 17th row — 9 plain, i purl to end of this petticoat is as follows, i J pattern with the grey for bottom of skirt. I pattern with the scarlet next, i pattern with the grey next. I pattern with the scarlet next, i pattern with the grey next, and cast off loosely. Now take crochet hook, and lift all your stitches (perpendicularly) that is the up and down stitches, and crochet them off in plain tricot stitch. Next row — in Hfting your stitches instead of lifting one, and working it off, lift 2 and work off as if it had been one, thus decreasing exactly one half, and continue working (always taking the perpendicular stitches, of course), until you are ready for waistband, which is about 3 inches deep, and done as follows : transfer your stitches on to the steel needles, and work in knitting i plain, and i purl alternately for 2 inches, then seam up widths. Now take your scarlet braid, and put the middle to the middle of waistband, and overcast round top, and hem down, taking CEire not to stretch your band, but rather keep in. The braid also serves for strings. The length of this skirt when finished is 31 inches. N.B. In working stripes with the kilt plait pattern ; it is necessary to begin your pattern anew with every change of colour so as to have a distinct right and wrong side. Each width of the preced- ing skirt is complete in itself. No knitting is done after being seamed up, just the braid sewn on. Just Out, Price 2d., Household Account and Cookery Book. BT Mks. leach, Containing Printed Pages for Housekeeping Expenses for Six Months, Middle-class Cookery, and Servants' Duties, &c. Post free three stamps. 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. 11 ully illustrated, and giving directions for every kind of heel and toe. Of all Newsagents, or 2Jd., post free, from tMs Offiee. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Crochet. FASCINATION DOLMAN. This mantle forms a lovely wrap for winter wear, done in white Shetland, .as it falls most gracefully to the figure and presents all the appearance of a dolman; it could be adapted for or- dinary wear worked in coloured wool. Materials required, I lb. of Shetland wool, 3 yards of cardinal satin rib- bon i^ inches wide, and a coarse bone hook. The dolman should be worked very loosely. Com- mence at the neck part, make a chain of 240 or I yard, 22 inches in length. 1st row — I treble into 5th chain from needle, I treble into every chain along row. 2nd row — 3 chain to turn, 2 treble into the 1st treble, i treble into every treble to end of row. Repeat the 2nd row 46 more times, that is, increasing at the beginning of the row, by working 2 treble into the ist treble, and i treble above every treble right across row. In the 48th or last row you should have 283 treble. This completes the foundation of the dolman. Now fasten on at right hand comer of neck, 20 chain, i double into 2nd treble, * 20 chain, miss a treble, i double into next, repeat from * right along row. Repeat the istrow into every row of the foundation, that is 20 chain, i double into every alternate treble. Do a row of the same at the bottom of the last row, making 49 rows of the 20 chain. The dolman is now finished. Divide your ribbon into 4 pieces, slanting one end of each piece, sew one piece 18 inches from the right hand of the neck part, sew another piece 20 inches further on, or about 20 inches from the left hand end, sew them on the outside of the dolman about 3 rows in; these are to tie at neck. Now take a third piece and sew on the neck or shortest part 4 inches from the right hand end, sew the 4th piece 23 inches from the left hand end on the 13th row, counting from the Widest part. The 3rd piece you sewed on is brought over and tied to the 4th piece slantingly, and forms the two pointed ends shown in the illustration. EGG COSY. This simple design is carried out in looped crochet. Makeachain of 20, and work a row of double crochet. 2nd row — looped crochet. PutthewooUorgtimes round the hook and the first finger of the left hand, the last time putting it round the hook only, and pulling the wool through all the loops, i double crochet into the next stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the row. Decrease i stitch at the beginning of every row till you have only 6 stitches left, when you pull them all together. Work the other side the same, and join them together' adding a tuft at the top of a contrasting colour, 12 . ^ ROUND SHAWL. The beauty of this shawl greatly depends upon the texture of the work. A rather coarse bone crochet needle is used. People work so differently, there is always much difficulty in ascertaining the correct size of the needle to be used. To overcome this diffi- culty the following plan is suggested : — work 4 chain stitches, if the needle is the correct size for this shawl the 4 chain stitches thus made will measure one inch in length. The above plan might fre- quently be resorted to with much advantage by crochet workers. Materials required : — quarter of a pound of Shetland wool, any colour preferred may be used ; white makes the most delicate shawl and is very suitable for a wedding present. If white or light coloured wool is chosen it is advisable to keep the work constantly on a white cloth or apron, as the colour of one's dress is liable to soil it. To begin — make a ring by working 3 chain stitches joined with a single stitch into the ist of the 3 chain stitches, ist round — work 2 chain stitches, work 1 5 treble stitches into the ring just formed, join to the beginning of round with a single stitch. 2nd round — make 2 chain stitches, work 8 treble stitches between the 2 chain and 1st treble of last round, * miss 4 treble stitches of last round, work 9 treble stitches into next loop, that is, between the next treble stitches of last round ; repeat from * twice more, so making 4 clumps in the round ; by clumps we mean the groups of treble stitches ; this term will be used throughout the pattern ; finish the round by working a single stitch into the ist stitch at the begin- ning of the round. 3rd round — * work 6' treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches pf the next clump of last round, work 6 treble stitches between the 6th and 7th treble stitches of same clump, work a cross single stitch, a "cross single" is worked thus:— miss I chain loop, put needle into back part of the ne.xt chain loop, and through the back part of the next chain loop, which is the chain loop of the ist treble stitch of the next clump, put wool over needle, draw it through the 3 loops on the needle ; repeat from * all round. It is well to put in a piece of coloured wool here, and at the beginning of every few rounds, so as to mark the line where the new rows commence. 4th round — * work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of the next clump of last round, work a cross single stitch ; repeat from * all round ; in working the cross single stitches, the needle is always put through the last chain loop of the clump into which you have just worked, and then through the ist chain loop of the next clump of last round, so that in working over a cross single stitch of the previous round, the chain loop formed by working that cross single stitch is missed. 5th round — * work 9 treble stitches between the 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of last round, work a cross single stitch ; repeat from * all round. 6th round — is worked same as the 3rd round. 7th, 8th and 9th rounds — are all worked the same as the 4th round. loth round— is worked same as the 5th round, ilth round— worked same as the 3rd round. 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th and 1 6th rounds— are all worked same as the 4th round. 17th round— * work 9 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of last round, work a cross single stitch, work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, work a cross single stitch ; repeat from * all round. l8th round—* work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of last round, work 6 treble stitches between 6th and 7th treble stitches of THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. same clump, work a cross single stitch, work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of last round, work a cross single stitcb ; repeat from * all round. 19th, 20th, 2istand 22nd rounds — are all worked same as the 4th round. 23rd ,round— is worked Same as the 17th round. 24th round — is worked Isame as the i8th round. 25th, 26th, 27th, 28th and 29th rounds — are all worked same as the 4th round. 30th round — * work 9 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of 4ast round, work a cross single stitch, work 6 treble stitches between \3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, work a cross single stitch, ivork 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, work a cross single stitch ; repeat from * all round. 31st round — * work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of last round, work 6 treble stitches between 6th and •7th treble stitches of same clump, work a cross single stitch, work i> treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, !(vork a cross single stitch, work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and "4th treble stitches of next clump, work across single stitch ; repeat ■from * all round. 32nd, 33rd and 34th rounds — are all worked same as the 4th round. 35th round — * work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of last round, work a cross single stitch, work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, work a cross single stitch, work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, work a cross single stitch, work g treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, work a cross single stitch ; repeat from * all round. 36th round — * work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of last round, work a cross single stitch, work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, work a cross single stitch, work 6 treble 'Stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump, work a cross single stitch, work 6 treble stitches between 3rd and 4th treble stitches Of next clump, work 6 treble stitches between 6th and 7th treble stitches of same clump, work a cross single stitch ; repeat from *all round. 37th, 38th and 39th rounds — are all worked same as the 4th round. 40th round — * work 10 treble stitches ■between the 3rd and 4th treble stitches of next clump of last round, work a cross single stitch ; repeat from * all round ; fasten off. The shawl must now be stretched in the following way. Spread a sheet on a carpeted floor, and pin it down firmly ; now lay the shawl on the sheet, pinning the centre of the shawl to the middle of the sheet. Each clump of the last roundof the shawl should also be pinned to the sheet. The shawl should measure about 25 inches from the centre to the edge. To keep it in good shape it should be measured at frequent intervals from the centre to the outsiderow of clumps. The pins should be put in very carefully, so as to avoid dragging the pattern ; a second sheet, which has been tightly wrung out of cold water, must now be spread over the shawl and ironed till quite dry. It is necessary to use the iron hot enough to run easily over the wet sheet, care being taken not to scorch the shawl. 2 or 3 irons will be required. Take •out the pins very carefully and hang the shawl before the fire till thoroughly diy. FLUTED TAMO'SHANTER HAT. , This pretty hat is suitable for either boys or girls ; for the former use 5 ozs. of the best Scotch wool; for the latter, Berlin fingering or petticoat fleece, bone crochet hook. No. 11 or No. 12 ; if a tight worker. No. ii ; if not, use No. 12. You begin with 3 chain, and unite by a slipstitch, work 2 double crochet into each chain stitch ; continue to work in this way round and round in double crochet (always taking the back part of stitchj until your round measures about 4 inches across; increase to make it lie flat by working 2 stitches into i as often as necessary; when the round is finished, there must be 76 stitches in the last row, so that there is the right number for making the flutes, which you now begin, ist row— 3 plain double into ist 3 stitches, 3 double m the next, and repeat all round, when there should be 19 pomts. and take up all the 76 stitches. 2nd row— work i double crochet into each stitch and 3 into the middle stitch of pomts made m last row, which will make 5 stitches between each pomt. 3rd row— work i double into each stitch, and 3 into the middle stitch of the points in last row; there should be 7 stitches between each point. 4th row— work i double into each stitch, and 3 into the middle stitch, which will make 9 stitches between each point. 5th row— work I stitch into each stitch, and 3 into the middle stitch, which will leave 11 stitches between each point. 6th row— work 7 double crochet stitches, 3 into the 8th stitch, 7 again, pass over 1 stitch between the next 7; this is to form a row of small holes all the way up between each flute. 7th row— work 7 double and 3 into the 8th stitch, i into 7 again, but pass over 2 stitches in this row, 7 double, 3 into the middle stitch, 7 again. Continue to work in this way all round for 19 rows, making 26 rows altogether pointed from the plain round. 27th row — you begin to decrease by working 6 double crochet, 3 into the middle stitch, 6 double again, passing over 2 stitches each side, making 4 instead of 2 between each 6 double. 28th row— decrease in same way, so that there is only 5 stitches each side of point. 29th row — decrease in same way by passing over the 4 stitches, so that there is only 4 stitches each side of point. 30th row — decrease by passing over the 4 stitches, and working 3 double crochet straight across the little point now left ; continue to work in this way all round. 31st row — quite plain, l stitch into each of previous row ; work 7 rows like this for the band; you must now run a double strand of wool all round the ist row of flutes at crown, in and out of each stitch where 3 is worked into I; this is to draw up round the tuft, and to make it set in flutes. The tuft is made by winding the wool over 3 fingers (or a piece of card) 200 times, cut and tie very firmly with a piece of strong cord or string, leaving two ends, tie another small piece round the wool doubled together to form a small knob, draw the ends of string through each side of the crown, and tie on the wrong side, then draw the thread of wool round the tuft and fasten off securely. You must cut the tuft round evenly with a sharp pair of scissors, and steam well over some quite boiling water. If a pompon is liked best, being closer, full directions are given in No. I of this journal. SHETLAND HEAD WR.-IP In CANADI.A.N Fan or Shell Stitch. Materials required : i oz. of best white Shetland wool, 4 an oz. of pink or blue, or any colour liked, 2 bone crochet hooks Nos. 4 and 9. Commence with white wool and coarsest hook, and work 6 chain, which unite by a slipstitch, work 6 chain, 5 treble, which must be drawn up loosely, without look- ing straggly for about an inch. 2nd row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble (making 6 treble stitches altogether) between the 2 last stitches of pre- vious row, 6 treble between the last 2 stitches at end (no chain between), this will form 2 shells. 3rd row — r:^:^^;^^^::^^ turn with 6 chain, 5 treble between ^-r^'^ ' ^ the 2 last stitches, 6 treble between the 3rd and 4th stitches of ist row, thereby passing over i shell, 6 treble between the last 2 stitches at end of row, passing over I shell. You always work the shells between those done in last row, so as to form the shell-like appearance, which would not be effected if worked in same place every row. 4th row — turn with 8 chain and 6 treble, passing over shell in last row, this is to keep it from getting too wide, work a shell between those in last row, that is, make I between the 3rd and 4th stitches of shells, do this to end of row, when there will be 3 shells. 5th row — turn with 8 chain, 6 treble, passing over ist shell in last row, 6 treble between next, 6 into next, i double crochet into end of chaiit, 3 shells to end of row. 6th row— turn with 6 chain, 5 treble between 2 last stitches of previous row, this to increase 4 shells to end of row, i double crochet into end of chain. 7th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble between 2 last stitches, 5 shells to end of row. gth row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 7 shells to end of row. loth row — tunr with 8 chain, 5 treble, passing over i in last row, 7 shells to end of row. nth ro\^' — in same way, 7 shells to end, I double crochet into end of chain.- 12th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 8 shells to end of row, i double crochet into end of chain. 13th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 9 shells to end THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. of row. 14th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 9 shells to end of row. 15th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 10 shells to end of row. 1 6th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 11 shells to end of row. 17th row — turn with 8 chain, 6 treble, passing over i shell in last row, 11 shells to end of row. i8th row — turn with 8 chain, 6 treble, passing over I shell in last row, ii shells to end of row, I double crochet into end of chain. 19th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 12 shells to end of row, I double crochet into end of chain. 20th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 13 shells to end of row. 2ist row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 14 shells to end of row. 22nd row — turn with 8 chain, 6 treble, passing ovtr shell in last row, 14 shells to end of row. 23rd row— turn with 8 chain, 6 treble, same as last row, 14 shells to end of row, i double crochet into end of chain. 24th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 15 shells to end of row, l double crochet into end of chain. 25th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 16 shells to end of row. 26th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 treble, 17 shells to end of row, this completes the half square ready for the border. Talie the finest hook and coloured wool, and work a row of 2 chain, 3 treble at equal distances all round, that is to say, i into every row each side, and into every shell at the top, of cour e increasing at the point and corners by working a double set of 2 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble. Now work a scalloped edge of 9 long treble into I hole, 2 chain, i double crochet into next 2 chain, 9 long treble into next hole; repeat all round, increasing each at corner and point by working 11 or 12 tieble instead of 9. LADIES' COMFORTABLE EVENING HOOD AND CAPE .SHELL STITCH. Thi IN POINT NEIGE OR Is hood, which has a large deep cape, is ex- tremely pretty and u sefu 1, worked in car- dinal Berlin wool, and the hand- some border in white and car- dinal. Use a ra- ther thick, short hook. Make a square in shell stitch (which has often been de- scribed in these columns), in- creasing at the corners till you have 16 stitches at each side of the square. You now work across two sides only, breaking off the wool, to begin each row at the same end. Work 38 rows across these two sides, always increas- ing every row at each end and in the middle. Fold the work oc- casionally so that you may be sure you are keeping it evenT Then begin the border, which is to go round the whole work. Work 3 rows in white, in- creasing at all the corners to make it flat, work i row in cardinal, 3 rows in white, and a scallop in cardinal to finish, thus : i single crochet, 3 chain, 3 treble, all into the same stitch, miss i shell, and repeat all round. Run ribbons to tie round the neck from the front to the back, where they must be fastened in a bow. Sew two more ribbons at the neck, running them to the top of the head, and fasten them in a bow. About 3 yards of ribbon will be required. WASHING Now Ready, price zd. AND LAUNDRY CHECK-BOOK. By Mrs. LEACH. Containing How to Wash, Starch, and Iron, with valuable Recipes for Cleaning, Dyeing, &c., and printed Laundry Checks for six months. Of all Ifewsvendors. Post free, three stamps. All Booksellers. R. Caktwsight, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, Loedon. u SHOULDER CAPE IN CRAZY STITCH With High Shoulders. Bone hook medium size, quantity of wool required 5 skeins Berlin fingering ; make a chain of 54. ist row — I double crochet into each chain. 2nd row — begin pattern — * i double crochet into ist double crochet of last row, 2 chain, I treble into same hole, I treble into same hole (this forms what we will call a block), miss i double crochet, andrepeat from * into every other double crochet until there are 27 blocks in the 54 chain. 3rd row — turn and work back I double crochet, 2 chain, and the 2 treble into the space (in each block of last row) formed by the 2 chain between the double Crochet and 1st treble ; every row is the same as this, except where you increase, and then you must make i block between the 2 treble as .well as I block in the usual space. In this row you have 27 blocks as in the last ; by following this exactly you will find it forms a scallop at each side. 4th row — 13 plain blocks, 2 in the 14th, 13 plain blocks, making 28. 5th row-^28 plain blocks. 6th row — 2 in ist, 26 plain blocks, 2 in 28th. 7th row — 15 plain blocks, 2 in i6th, 14 plain blocks. 8th row — 31 plain blocks. 9th row — I plain block, 2 in 2nd, 5 plain, 2 in next, 15 plain, 2 in next, 5 plain, 2 in next, i plain. loth row — 17 plain, 2 in i8th, 17 plain, 36 in all. nth row — 8 plain, 2 in next, 18 plain, 2 in next, 8 plain, 38 in all. 12th row — 38 plain blocks. 13th row — 2 plain, 2 in next, 5 plain, 2 in next 2 blocks, 9 plain, 2 in next, 8 plain, 2 in next 2 blocks, 5 plain, 2 in next, 2 plain, 45 in all. 14th row — 8 plain, 2 in each of next 4 blocks, 21 plain, 2 in each of next 4 blocks, 8 plain, 53 in all. 15th row — 8 plain, 2 into each of next 8 blocks, 2 1 plain, 2 into each of next 8 blocks, 8 plain, 69 in all. 1 6th row— 69 plain blocks. 17th row — 3 plain, 2 in next, 30 plain, 2 in next, 30 plain, 2 in next, 3 plain, 72 in all. i8th row — 72 plain blocks. 19th row — 9 plain, 2 together, 13 plain, 2 together, 20 plain, 2 together, 13 plain, 2 together, 9 plain (in taking 2 together, put the needle into the space of 2 instead of i, formed by 2 chain, and then work into the space of the 2nd block), 68 in all. 20th row — 68 plain blocks. 2 1 St row — 4 plain, 2 in next, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 5 plain, 2 in next, 6 plain, 2 in next, 5 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 in next, 4 plain, 64 in all. 22nd row — 64 plain blocks. 23rd row — 64 plain blocks. 24th row — ditto. 25th row— 5 plain, 2 in next, 6 plain, 2 together, 5 plain, 2 together, 6 plain, 2 in next, 8 plain, 2 in next, 6 plain, 2 together, 5 plain, 2 together, 6 plain, 2 in next, j plain, 64 in all. 26th, 27th and 28th rows — 64 plain blocks. 29th row — 6 plain, 2 in next, 19 plain, 2 in next, 10 plain, 2 in next, 19 plain, 2 in next, 6 plain. 30th, 31st and 32nd rows — 68 plain blocks. 33rd row — 7 plain, 2 in next, 52 plain, 2 in next, 7 plain, 70 in all. 34th, 35th and 36th rows — 70 plain blocks. Now, instead of working back along the bottom, work up the side, i block into each point, there should be 16 in all. Then work a row of double crochet along the top and 17 blocks down the other side, turn and work 17 blocks, i row of double crochet, 16 blocks down the ist side ; turn back and repeat. You may find it necessary at the points of the neck to make an extra block or I chain between a stitch to keep it flat. This depends upon the worker, so no exact rules can be given, but be very careful to keep all points perfectly flat. When you have reached the end of the row of 17 blocks, turn back and work both sides, and along the bottom with 3 treble in each block, instead of 2. This makes a deeper scallop for the edge ; fasten off neatly, so as not to show. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. When you have worked along the bottom to the side of the 17 blocks, then work along the neck backwards and forwards double crochet until deep enough. This is according to taste. A pretty finish to the neck band is 3 chain, I double crochet into each hole badcwards and forwards along each row, sew on ribbon on each side of the neck and the cape is finished. This size is for a slight figure with a long neck. If required for a stout or broad figure, either the place for the shoulders must be altered or more rows must be added up the fronts. In the first case a longer chain must be made to begin with, so that there should be the same distance in proportion from each side as there is increased width in the back, so that in the 9th row you would allow 7 blocks on each side instead of 5, and 20 between the increasing instead of 15. The rule is to allow double in the back to the number of extra blocks in the fronts. CHEESE SERVIETTE. No. 24 Coats' crochet cotton, steel hook No. 4. istrow — make a length of firm chain. 2nd row — * double crochet into the chain, 3 chain, miss 3, 17 treble or long, 3 chain, miss 3 and repeat from * 5 times; there must be 6 lots of 17 long, then unite into a ring. 3rd row ' — 17 long over 17 long, 4 chain, double crochet on double of previous row, 7 chain, double into same place, 4 chain, and repeat all round. 4th row — same as the last, only make 5 chain in place of 4 chain. 5th row — same as the last, only put 6 chain instead of 5. 6th row — double into centre of 7 chain, 6 chain, 19 long, begin i stitch before the 17 long of last row, and end i past, 6 chain, and repeat. 7th row — 3 double crochet — i before, I on, and i after the double crochet in previous row — 6 chain, 21 long, working as before 1 off at each end, 6 chain, and repeat. 8tli row — 5 double crochet over 3 double crochet, being 1 over at each end, 6 chain, 23 long, 1 over at each end as before, 6 chain and repeat. 9th row — 3 double crochet over the 3 centre of 5 in previous row, 7 chain, 25 long, worked as before, 7 chain and repeat. loth row — i long on 1st double crochet, 4 chain, i long on last double crochet, 6 chain, 27 long, worked as before, 6 chain, and repeat, i ith row — this row begins the letters for the word chees£; begin on the 27 long, i long, 2 chain into every alternate stitch on the 27 long, making in all 13 square holes, 5 chain, I long on long, i chain, i long into each of the 5 chain, with i chain between each, 5 chain, and repeat. Now write on 6 separate pieces of paper about I inch square each letter, forming the word CHEESE, and sew each letter in proper rotation on each thick division of long stitches. Instead of cutting off the cotton at every row the letters may now be worked thus, and if carefully done the joining cannot be perceived. In the ist square that is directed in any row, instead of working i long, make 5 chain, i long into the 3rd loop; this 5 chain is equivslent to i long, 2 chain; in concluding the row after the last 2 chain, unite into the 3rd loop of the ist 5 chain; this will be found to form as perfect a square as in any other part, the 3 chain being a substitute for the I long. 12th row — begin on the commencement of the H division, 3 square, 3 long, 9 square, * 5 chain, i long on long, I long into every loop of the remaining 10 loops, 5 chain, 13 square on the square,|repeat from * all round. 1 3th row — exactly the same as last row. 14th row — begin on the same division, 2 square, 3 long, 10 square, * 5 chain, 5 long on the long, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, 5 long on long, 5 chain, 13 square over the square, repeat from * all round. Cut the cotton off this row and fasten neatly. 15th row — begin on the last E division in the word cheese and continue to begin on this division until all the letters are finished, 3 square, 18 long, 4 square, * 5 chain, 6 long, begin 1 off last row and end on a level, 4 chain, 6 long, 1st on 1st long of last row, 5 chain, *. S division, 3 square, 12 long, 4 square, 3 long, i square, repeat from * to * again, then over the 2 E divisions work 3 square, 18 long, 4 square, working between all the letters as from * to *. H division, 1 square, 6 long, 2 square, 9 long, 3 square, 3 long, i square. _ C division, 3 square, 18 long, 4 square, repeat from * to * again. i6th row — division E, 2 square, 3 long, 4 square, 12 long, 2 square * 5 chain, 7 long, the ist into 5 loop, 5 chain, and 7 long the ist on the next long, 5 chain *. S division, 2 square, 6 long, i square, 21 long, I square, repeat from * to * between the letters, work over the 2 E divisions as the ist E. H division, i square, 6 long, I square, 3 long, i square, 9 long, 2 square, 3 long, i square. C division, 2 square, 3 long, 4 square, 12 long, 2 square. 17th row — E division, i square, 3 long, 7 square, 6 long, 2 square, * 5 chain, 8 long, the ist into 5th loop, 6 chain, 8 long, the 1st upon i long in previous row, 5 chain, * repeat from * to * between all the letters. 5 division, l square, 6 long, 3 square, 15 long, 2 square, the 2 E divisions as at the 1st. H division, I square, 6 long, 5 square, 9 long, 2 square. C division, i square, 3 long, 7 square, 6 long, 2 square. 18th row — E division, 7 square, 3 long, i square, 9 long, i square, * 5 chain, 9 long, 7 chain, 9 long, 5 chain, repeat from * between all the letters. S division, i square, 5 long, 4 square, 3 long, 6 square, work over the 2 E divisions as at the first. H division, i square, 6 long, 4 square, 3 long, i square, 3 long, 3 square. C division, 7 square, 3 long, i square, 9 long, i square. 19th row — 6 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square, * 5 chain, 2 long into Sth loop, 7 long into 7 loops, 2 long into next stitch, 7 chain, 2 long on next long, 7 long, and 2 long in next stitch, 5 chain, and repeat from * between each letter. S division, i square, 3 long, x square, 21 long, 3 square. 2 E divisions, 6 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square. H division, I square, 6 long, 3 square, 6 long, i square, 3 long, 3 square. C division, 6 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, 1 square. 20th row — 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, I square. Work between each letter as in the last row, only making 9 long between the increasing stitches instead of 7; there must be 13 long in all. S division, 2 square, 3 long, I square, 21 long, 2 square. '2 E di\'isions, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, I square. H division, I square, I2 long, i square, 6 long, i square, 3 long, i square, 3 long, I square. C division, 6 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, 1 square; in the last division between E and C after the 13 long make 2 chain and 5 long into centre 5 of the 7 chain of previous row, 2 chain, and work 13 long as before ; this forms the stop between the first and last letters of the word ; work this spot the same in the 2 next rows. 21st row — i square, 3 long, i square, 6 long, 1 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square. Work between all the letters as before, only increasing I at each end of long as before. S division, 2 square, 6 long, i square, 3 long, 4 square, 6 long, I square. Work over the 2 E divisions as at first. H division, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square, 6 long, 2 square. C division, 6 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, 1 square. 22nd row — 4 square, 3 long, i square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, I square. Work between all the letters as before, remembering to increase in the long. S division, 3 square, 21 long, I square, 3 long, i square. The 2 E divisions, 4 square, 3 long, i square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square. H division, 6 square, 6 long, i square, 3 long, 3 square. C division, 6 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square. 23rd row — 3 square, 3 long, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square. Now continue to work and increase between the letters as before. 5 division, 4 square, 24 long, i square. E divisions, 3 square, 3 long, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square. H, 6 square, 6 long, I square, 3 long, 3 square. C division, 6 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square. 24th row — 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 3 long, 3 square, 3 long, 2 square ; continue working and increasing as before between all the letters. S division, 2 square, 3 long, 7 square, 3 long, 2 square over 2 E di\isions as the first. H division, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, i square, 3 long, 3 square. C division, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 3 long, 3 square, 3 long, 2 square. 25th row — i square, 3 long, i square, 9 long, 3 square, 3 long, 3 square. Work and increase between all the letters as before. S division, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 6 long, 2 square, 3 long, 2 square. 2 E divisions, i square, 3 long, i 15 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. square, 3 long, i 9 long, 3 square, 2 square, 6 long, xtters as before. square, 9 long, 3 square, 3 long, 3 square, H division, i square, 3 long, I square, 6 long, i square, 3 long, i square, 3 long, 2 square. C division, i square, 3 long, i square, 3 long, 3 square. 26th row — 4 square, 3 long, 4 square. Work and increase between all the 5 division, 2 square, 12 long, i square, 9 long, 3 square. 2 E divisions, 4 square, 3 long, 2 square, 6 long, 4 square. H division, 4 square, 6 long, 3 square, 6 long, 2 square. C division, 4 square, 3 long, 2 square, 6 long, 4 square. 27th row — over the letters work squares, then 5 chain, double crochet into all the long stitches, then 4 double crochet into next 4 loops of the 7 chain, double crochet again in same place, 3 double crochet in next 3 loops, then double crochet over the long stitches, 5_ chain and repeat all round. 28th row — i long on long with 3 chain be- tween over the letters, i long, 3 chain, i long into every 3rd loop over the J chain and double crochet stitches. 29th row— 3 long under every 3 chain. ' 30th row — I long between every 3 long in last row, with 2 chain between. 31st row — 3 long under 2 chain, 2 chain, 3 long into same place, 2 chain, miss i square, and repeat all round. 32nd row — 3 long under the 2 chain between the 6 long in same hole, 2 chain, 3 long into same place, 2 chain, double crochet under 2 chain between the points, and repeat. 33rd row — 3 long under chain of the point, 2 chain, 3 long in same place, 2 chain, repeat round. 34th row — 3 long into point, 3 chain, 3 long into same place, 2 chain, double crochet under 2 chain, and repeat. The centre of the mat has now to be put in ; hold right side next you and double crochet in between every long, ■3 double crochet under 3 chain, 3 double crochet under next 3 chain, repeat round. 2nd row — double treble all round with 2 chain between, and miss 2 stitches on last row. 3rd row — double crochet all round. 4th row — I double treble (over each double treble in 2nd row), with I chain between, miss 2 stitches and repeat. 5th row — I long in every stitch all round. Now double crochet round and round, narrowing often, until all is filled up, lay on the table often, and see that it keeps quite flat and smooth. RAISED MAT FOE VASE. Materials required for a pair of these very pretty mats are 3|,ozs. of pale blue double berlin or any colour liked best, 2 balls of gold, silver, or crystal tinsel, bone crochet hook No. 6. Com- mence by working 6 chain and unite by a slipstitch ; into this ring of chain, work I chain, i treble for 12 times. 2nd row — i chain, i treble into every stitch of previous row, thereby making double the number of stitches. 3rd row — I chain, i treble into the 1st stitch, I chain, I treble into 2nd stitch, i chain, i treble into 4th stitch, I chain, i treble into 5th stitch, i chain, I treble into 6th stitch, I chain, I treble into 8th stitch, thereby missing a stitch now and then; repeat in this way to end of row. 4th row — i chain, i treble into every treble stitch of last row. 5th row — i double crochet stitch into chain of last row, * 4 chain, the last caught back to the ist;chain, i double crochet into next chain, repeat from * all round; this completes the foundation. For the raised part, fasten on the wool to the 2nd row, on the right side, of course, and work 2 treble into every stitch. 2nd row — work 2 treble into every stitch, same as last row ; this makes it very lull. 3rd row — fasten on the tinsel and work a row of double crochet into 16 every stitch, when the full piece will be finished. You must now arrange the fulness all round the mat very evenly and tack it down securely to the bottom, when it will have the appearence of shells all round. To make a large mat, just double the number of stitches and quantity of wool and tinsel. TASSEL BAG. Use crochet cot- ton No. 28 or 30, and a fine steel hook. Make a chain of 18, unite in a round, work 4 chain, i slipstitch, 19 times in the ring. Next round — 4 chain into all the 4 chain holes. 3rd round — 5 chain, i double into all the 4 chain holes. 4th round— 5 chain into all the 5 chain holes. 5th round — 5 chain into every 5 chain hole. 6th round — same as fth. 7th round — same as 6th. 8th round — same as 7th. 9th — same as 8th. loth — same as 9th. ilth — same as loth. 12th — same as nth. 13th — same as 1 2th. 14th — same as 13th. isth — same as 14th. 1 6th — same as 15th. 17th round — 3 chain, 2 treble into next hole, 4 chain, 2 treble in the same hole, * 3 chain into the next hole, 3 chain, 2 treble in the next hole, 4 chain, 2 treble in the same ; repeat from * all round. 18th row — 2 treble in the 4 chain hole, 4 chain, 2 treble in the same hole, 3 chain into the slipstitch of the 3 chain hole, * 3 chain 2 treble in the 4 chain hole, 4 chain, 2 treble in the same, 3 chain into the slipstitch of the 3 chain hole, repeat from*. . 19th row^ 2 treble in the 4 chain hole, 5 chain, 2 treble in the same hole, 4 chain into the slipstitch of the 3 chain hole, 4 chain, 2 treble into the 4 chain hole, 5 chain, 2 treble in the same hole, 4 chain into the slipstitch of 3 chain, * 4 chain, 2 treble into the 4 chain hole, 5 chain, 2 treble m the same, 2 chain into the slipstitch of the 3 chain, repeat from *. 20th row — 3 treble into the 5 chain hole, 5 chain, 3 treble in the same hole, * 4 chain into the slipstitch of the 4 chain hole, 4 chain, 3 treble into the 5 chain hole, 5 chain, 3 treble in the same ; repeat from *. 21st row — 3 treble into the 5 chain hole, 5 chain 3 treble in the same, 5 chain into the slipstitch of the 4 chain, * 5 chain, 3 treble into the J chain hole, 5 chain, 3 treble in the same, 5 chain into the slipstitch of the 4 chain, repeat from *. 22nd row — 3 treble, 5 chain, 3 treble in the 5 chain hole, 5 chain into the slipstitch of the 5 chain, * 5 chain, 3 treble, 5 chain, 3 treble in the chain hole, 5 chain into the slipstitch of the 5 chain, repeat from *. 23rd row — 4 treble, 5 chain, 4 treble mto the 5 chain hole, 6 chain into the slipstitch of the 5 chain, * 6 chain, 4 treble into the 5 chain hole, 6 chain, 4 treble in the same hole, 6 chain into the slipstitch of the 5 chain, repeat from*. 24th row — in the 6th chain holes between the trebles, work 2 chain, I treble 3 times, 3 chain, I treble, 2 chain, i treble 3 times more, all in the same hole, 6 chain, slip it into the slipstitch of the 6 chain, 6 chain, i treble into the 6 chain in the centre of the trebles, * 2 chain, i treble 3 times, then 3 chain, i treble ; then 2 chain, I treble 3 times more all in the same hole, 6 chain into the slipstitch of the 6 chain, I treble into the 6 chain in the centre of the treble, repeat from *. A Lady writing on DRESSMAKING says; — " Dear Mrs. Leach, — I have got on so well in malting my own and children's dresses and mantles through the aid of your books and patterns that I recommend them to all my friends." "The Christian Herald says : — " Mrs. Leach's books are the pioneers of home dressmaking." STJBSCEIPTION rORM. To the Publisher, Please forwaitl me "Mrs. Leach's Pkactical Family DKESsstAKER" for six months, addressed to Mrs , Is. 3d. enclosed. Commence with No " The Ohildben's Dressmaker " forwarded for 6 months for 9 stamps extra, poet free. Address, E. B. Cartwbight, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. PRINCESS PETTICOAT. Materials re- quired, ij lb. of German wool, 4 shades of grey, and 4 shades of red, 12 ozs. of darkest grey, 2 ozs. of the next 2 shades, i oz. of the lightest, 2 oz. each of the first 3 shades of red, claret, maroon and cardinal, i oz. of lightest scarlet. Commence with the band with the dark- est shade of grey. Make 1 50 chain, ^ist row — I double into 2nd chain from hook, I double into each of the next chain stitches to end of row. 2nd row — turn with i chain, i double into every double of last row; do 4 more rows like the 2nd, turn and commence the pattern, 4 treble into the first double cro- chet, miss I, I double into next * 4 treble in next double, miss i, I double in next, repeat from * to end of row, fasten off; commence again at the right hand side, fasten on with a double crochet in the middle of first group of 4 treble, * 4 treble over the next double, I double in the middle of the next 4 treble, repeat from * to end of row, fasten off. Do 28 more rows the same as the 2nd. 31st row — 5 long trebles instead of 4 over each double, do 3 more rows like this, still in the same wool. Now join the petticoat and work round and round. 35th row — join on the darkest shade of red and work I row the same as the 34th row. 36th row — the same, but in the 2nd shade of red. 37th row — (every row is now worked alike) in the 3rd shade of red. 3Sth row— scarlet. 39th row — 3rd shade. 40th row — 2nd shade. 41st row — darkest shade. 42nd row — in darkest shade of grey, working 6 treble in eveiy case instead of 5. 43rd row — the same with 2nd shade of grey. 44th row — 3rd shade of grey. 45th row — lightest grey. 46th raw-^3rd shade of grey. 47th row — 2nd shade of grey. 48th row — darkest grey. 49th row — in darkest red. 50th row — in 2nd shade. Sistrow — 3rd shade. 52nd row — lightest shade. 53rd row — 3rd shade. 54th row — 2nd shade. S5th row — darkest shade. 56th row — darkest shade of grey. 57th row — do 7 trebles instead of 6 in the 2nd shade of grey. 58th row — 3rd shade. S9th row — lightest shade. 60th row— 3rd shade. 6ist row — 2nd shade. 62nd row — darkest shade. 63rd row — darkest shade of red. 64th row — do 8 trebles instead of 7 in 2nd shade of red. 65th row — 3rd shade of red. 66th row — in lightest shade. 67th row — 3rd shade. 68th row — 2nd shade. 69th row — darkest shade. 70th row — darkest shade of grey. 71st row — 2nd shade. 72nd row — 3rd shade. 73rd row — lightest shade. 74th row — do 9 trebles in 3rd shade. 75th row — 2nd shade. 76th and last row — this forms the border, and is worked in the darkest grey, 1 1 long trebles into each double. Crochet a scallop all round placket hole, 4 treble into I hole, I double into next, stitch placket hole firmly at the bottom, face the band with black lining and run a tape string through the 3rd row of double, and then the petticoat is complete. STYLISH WOOL BONNET. Materials required : — 5 ozs. best cardinal Scotch or Berlin finger- ing wool, bone hook No. 11 or 12, and 2 yards of satin or ottoman ribbon to match the wool for strings and bow at top. This pretty bonnet, which is really a novelty, stylish, warm and durable, is to be worn like a princess shape (for it is not a hood), and will be found most useful for ladies travelling, or attending evening meet- ings, wearing in the garden, &c., and it is really formed from the fluted Tam O'Shanter cap, which is fully described in this paper, if carefully followed out as they are there given ; then fold the Tam O'Shanter Cap exactly in half, and sew a stylish bow of ribbon at the back of the tuft or pompon, which must stand up. Now sew the strings on at each end of the folded band on the right side, just slipstitch the band together, when you will have a stylish and novel bonnet, which is really very becoming. A finer wool can be used if liked. TUFTED QUILT. This quilt is crocheted in squares with soft white knitting cotton and a bone hook. Quantity of cotton is regulated by the size of the quilt. The model had 72 squares, 9 squares long and 8 squares broad, and formed a quilt 24 yards long and 2 yards 6 inches wide without the border. Strutt's knitting cotton, yellow tie No. 8 is a very good size, but if a heavier quilt be desired, use a coarser malce. Make a chain of 8 and join into a ring, ist row — 3 double, 4 chain into ring ; repeat 3 times more, join. 2nd row — 2 double (always pick up the back loop) into ist stitch, I into next, 2 into next, 4 chain, and repeat all round ; you increase in every row in this way, that is by working 2 double into the ist and last stitch of each of the four sides of square. 3rd row — 7 double, 3 chain all round. 4th row — 9 double, 3 chain all round. 5th row — 5 double in the first 4 of last row, 4 treble in the next, take out your hook, insert in the ist treble you made, and put it back into the loop you took it from, draw cotton through both loops on needle. This will hereafter be called a tuft. Now go on working 5 double into the next 4 as usual 3 chain and repeat all round. 6th row — plain double crochet all round, not forgetting to increase at the beginning and end of each side ; do not forget this in every row, as it ^vill not be repeated again. When you come to the tuft in every previous row, work your double into the middle of it. 7th row— 5 double crochet, a tuft, 3 double crochet, a tuft, 5 double, repeat. 8th row — plain double crochet- 9th row— 5 double, tuft, 3 double, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft, 5 doubles, 3 chain and repeat. The directions will now only be given for one side of the square ; each side has 3 chain between. loth row — plain, nth— 5 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft, S doubles. 12th row— plain. 13th row— 5 doubles, tuft *, 3 doubles, tuft ; repeat from * 3 times more, S doubles. 14th row— plain. 15th row— 9 doubles, tuft*, 3 doubles, tuft; repeat from * twice more, 9 doubles. l6th row — plain. 17th row — 13 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft, 13 doubles. iSth row — plain. 19th row — 17 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft, 17 doubles. 20th row — plain. 21st row— 21 doubles, tuft, 21 doubles. 22nd row— plain ; you should have 45 doubles. 23rd row— plain, 47 doubles. 24th row— plain, 49 doubles. 25th row— 3 doubles*, tuff, 3 doubles ; repeat from * ii times more. 26th row— plain. 27th j-ow— 3 doubles *, tuft, 3 doubles ; repeat from * 12 times more. 28th row — plain. This completes the square. Make the nuniber required and either sew or crochet them together. The quill is now ready for the border ; work 2 rows of double crochet into every stitch all round the quilt, increasing at the corners. 3rd row— i treble into a stitch *, 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of last row, i treble into next ; repeat from * all round. 4th row — double crochet into every stitch. 5th row — the same as the 4th. 6th row— the same as the 3rd. 7th row — you now commence to do the border in Vandykes ; work 67 consecutive doubles from the comer. 8th row — turn, miss the ist double, 65 doubles, missing the last. 9th row- turn, 63 doubles. 10th row— 5 doubles, tuft *, 3 doubles, tuft; repeat from * 3 times more, nth row— plain, decreasing at begm- ning and end ; do. not forget to decrease at the beginning and end of every row ; this will not be repeated. 12th row— 4 doubles, tuft *,7 doubles, tuft, 2 doubles, tuft ; repeat from * twice, 7 doubles, tuft, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 4 doubles. 13th row — plain. 14th row — 4 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft *, 6 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft ; repeat from * twice more, 4 doubles. 15th row — plain. i6th row — 4 doubles, tuft *, 10 doubles, tuft; repeat from * twice. 17th row — plain. 1 8th row — 4 doubles, tuft *, 7 doubles, tuft, 2 doubles, tuft ; repeat from * once, 7 doubles, tuft, 4 doubles. 19th row — plain. 20th row — 4 doubles, tuft, 2 doubles, tuft *, 7 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft ; repeat from * once, 4 doubles. 21st row — plain. 22nd row — 4 doubles, tuft, 10 doubles, tuft, 10 doubles, tuft, 4 doubles. 23rd row — plain. 24th row— 4 doubles, tuft, 7 doubles, tuft, 2 doubles, tuft, 7 doubles, tuft, 4 doubles. 25th row— plain. 26th row— 4 doubles, tuft, 2 doubles, tuft, 7 doubles, tuft, 2 doubles, tuft, 4 doubles. 27th row — plain. 28th row — 4 doubles, tuft, 10 doubles, tuft, 4 doubles. 2gth row — plain. 30th row — 4 doubles, tuft, 7 doubles, tuft, 4 doubles. 31st row — plain. 32nd row — 4 doubles, tuft, 3 doubles, tuft, 4 doubles. 33rd row— plain. 34th row — 4 doubles, tuft, 4 doubles. Now work 4 more rows of double crochet. There should be 3 stitches in the last row ; fasten off. This completes one van- dyke. Now begin to work at the 68th stitch of 6th row, and do another vandyke the same way ; proceed in this way all round the quilt ; the model had 34. There should be 2 Vandykes at each corner — i on the right and the other on the left, thus making like a square across each corner. When you have done all the Vandykes, crochet a border right round them. 1st row — i treble into ist stitch, 3 chain, miss about 2 doubles, I treble into next and repeat all round, increase at the points by working 2 trebles with 3 chain between very close together, and row — double into every stitch, increasing at the points. 3rd row— same as 2nd. 4th row — * treble into a stitch, 3 chain, slip- stitch into 1st of the 3 chain, i treble into next; repeat from*, work all round. This completes the quilt. WORK BAG. Materials required : — jib. of fawn coloured macrame thread No. 5, bone crochet hook No. 8, ^ yard of pale-blue satin for lining, 2 yards of satin ribbon, i inch wide, to run inandmakebowsof. Com- mence at the bottom of the bag. Make a chain of 70 stitches, join it, work 3 rows of plain double crochet, working into the back loops only. 4th row — work 2 double crochet in the next stitch, I double crochet into 3 successive stitches, 2 double crochet in the next, work I double crochet into 30 successive stitches, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, i double crochet into 3 successive stitches, 2 double crochet __ _ in the nexf; work i double crochet into 30 successive stitches. Repeat for 7 rows more, never omitting to put 2 double crochet into the ist and last stitches of the 2 double crochet on each side ; work i double crochet till you come to the middle of the last row, then join with i single crochet. 12th row — 3 chain, i treble into next stitch, i treble into each stitch of the row, join it. 13th row — work 3 chain, 1 treble, i chain, 2 treble in the first stitch, and 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble in every fifth stitch, join it. 14th row— 3 chain, i treble, work in the chain of last row, i chain, 2 treble into the same hole, 2 treble, J chain, 2 treble in each chain of last row, join it. 15th row — same as the last. i6th row — 7 chain, I long treble (putting thread twice over the hook) into the ist chain of last round, i long treble, 3 chain, I long treble in all the chain stitches, join it. 17th row — 3 chain, i treble, i chain, 2 treble in the 3 chain of last row, 1 chain, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble in every 3 chain to end of row, join it. 1 8th row — 3 chain, i treble, i chain, 2 treble in the chain between the 4 treble stitches in last row, i chain, 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble between the 4 treble stitches in last row, join it. 19th row— same as the last. 20th row — same as the last. 21st row — 7 chain, i long treble in the first chain between the 4 treble stitches in last row, I chain, I long treble, 3 chain, I long treble in the chain between the 4 treble stitches in last row, join it. 22nd row— i double crochet, I chain, I treble, I chain, i treble, I chain, I treble, I chain, I double crochet in the 3 chain of last row ; 4 chain, I single in the second chain from the hook to purl it, I chain. Repeat to the end of 18 row. For the bottom, make a chain of 28 stitches, work 2 rows of double crochet round it, increase 3 stitches at each end to round it, crochet it into the bottom of the bag with single crochet, then make I double crochet, 4 chain, I double crochet into every fourth stitch to end of row. For the edge, work I double crochet, I chain, I treble, I chain, I treble, I chain, i treble, I chain, I double crochet to end of row, join it. For the handles, cut 14 lengths of thread, I yard and 4 inches long, take 14 threads, hold 7 straight in the left hand, knot the others on to it, once with the right hand ; hold these threads straight in the right hand, and knot the others on to it with the left. Repeat this till you have worked the threads up. Make another handle just like the last, and sew them on the bag, then line it, run 2 rows of ribbon into the long treble rows of crochet, and make 2 bows for the centre of the bag. If you get a hank of gilt cord, crochet a chain with it, and tack under the edge of the lining, it brightens it up nicely. . LADIES' NIGHT NET. Materials required : — i^ ounces of Strutt's knitting cotton No. 10, 4 thread, steel crochet hook No. i^, and ij yards of coloured ribbon about an inch wide. Commence by working 8 chain, and unite by a slipstitch, work 36 treble into this ring of chain. 1st row — 5 chain, i treble into 2nd treble, 2 chain, i treble, missing I treble; do this until you have 18 holes, join. 2nd row — 5 chain, \vind the cotton round your hook 3 times and draw through each as for treble, which will form a cable stitch, make another stitch in same way, which, with the 5 chain, will form 3 long stitches (this stitch is fully described and illustrated in No. i of this paper as double long treble), 2 chain, 3 cable stitches into every hole all round. 3rd row — 3 chain, i double crochet into last of the ist set of cable stitches, 3 chain, i double crochet into ist cable stitch, 3 chain, i double crochet into last cable stitch ; work all round in this way. 4th row — 3 chain, 1 double crochet into every hole of last row. 5th row — the same. 6th row — 4 chain, i double crochet into every hole. 7th row — the same. 8th row— 5 chain, 2 cable stitches into ist hole, 2 chain, 3 cable stitches into every hole all round. 9th row — 3 chain, i double crochet into last of the ist set of cable stitches, 3 chain, i double crochet into ist cable stitch, 3 chain, i double crochet into last, repeat all round. loth row — 3 chain, i double crochet into every hole, i ith row — the same. 12th row — the same. 13th row — the same. 14th row — the same, isth row — 4 chain, I double crochet into every hole. 16th row — the same. 17th row — the same. i8th row — 5 chain, 2 cable stitches into 1st hole, 2 chain, 3 cable stitches into every hole all round. 19th row — 4 chain, I double crochet into each hole between the sets of cable stitches. 20th row — 5 chain, I double crochet into every hole. 21st row — the same. 22nd row — the same. 23rd row — 5 chain, * 2 treble, 5 chain, the last caught to the ist chain to form a picot, 2 treble into same hole, repeat from * all round for the edge. When the net is finished, run a ribbon in and out of the 2 1 st row, and tie in a bow at the top. White elastic can be substituted for the ribbon if preferred. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. INFANT'S BIB, To Tie at Waist. This is a very useful and pretty bib, wears and washes well, and simple to make; it is worked all through in treble stitch. Materials requir,ed are : ij oz. of white knitting cotton, Strutt's No. 14 or 16, steel hook No. 2, and 2 yards of blue or pink ribbon. You begin for the bottom of waist with 40 chain; work a treble stitch into the 4th stitch of the foundation chain, and work 1 8 treble along, including that done with chain to form a treble stitch at the beginning of row ; now work 3 treble into 19th stitch, this to increase at centre, and bring to a point, work 18 more trebles, which will take up all the foundation chain. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, and work a treble stitch over each treble of last row, always taking up the back part of stitch, so as to form ribs or ridges of treble ; into the 20th stitch work 5 treble, 19 more treble to end of row. 3rd row — turn with 3 chain, work 22 treble, 3 into the 22nd stitch, 22 to end of row. 4th row— turn with 3 chain, work 22 treble, 5 into the 23rd stitch, 22 to end of row. 5th row — turn with 3 chain, 24 treble, 3 nto the 25th stitch, 24 to end of row. 6th row — turn with 3 chain, 25 treble, 5 into the 26th stitch, 25 to end. 7th row — turn with 3 chain, 27 treble, 3 into the 28th stitch, 27 to end. 8th row — turn with 3 chain, 28 treble, 5 into the 2gth stitch, 28 to end. 9th row — turn with 3 chain, 30 treble, 3 into the 31st stitch, 30 to end. loth row — turn with 3 chaip, 31 treble, 5 into the 32nd stitch, 31 to end. nth row — turn with 3 chain, 33 treble, 3 into the 34th stitch, 33 treble to end. 12th row — turn with 3 chain, 34 treble, 5 into the 35th stitch, 34 to end. 13th row — turn with 3 chain, 36 treble, 3 into the 37th stitch, 36 to end. 14th row — turn with 3 chain, 37 treble, 5 into the 38th stitch, 37 to end. 15th row — turn with 3 chain, 39 treble, 3 into the 40th stitch, 39 to end. 1 6th row — turn with 3 chain, 40 treble, 5 into the 41st stitch, 40 to end. 17th row— turn with 3 chain, 42 treble, 3 into the 43rd stitch, 42 to end. 1 8th row — turn with 3 chain, 43 treble, 5 into the 44th stitch, 43 to end. 19th row — turn with 3 chain, 45 treble, 3 into the 46th stitch, 45 to end. 20th row — turn with 3 chain, 46 treble, 5 into the 47th stitch, 46 to end. For shoulder straps — turn with 3 chain, and work 7 treble stitches backwards and forwards for 8 rows, or 4 ridges; break off, and begin for the other side of same arm, missing 14 stitches, fasten on cotton and work another piece of 7 treble exactly the same, these two pieces form one shoulder strap by being tied together with a bow of ribbon ; now work on the other side two pieces exactly the same for the second shoulder On the foundation chain you now work i long treble, i chain into the 3rd stitch for 17 times, missing the 3 centre stitches, this to form holes for running the ribbon through at waist. You now work an edge all round the bib and shoulder straps of 3 chain, i double crochet into every rib. 2nd row — in same way, with 5 chain, i double crochet into the centre of loops made in last row ; increase at each corner by working 2 loops into i. Fasten the little point over the top of bib, which turns over like a little flap, by sewing on a bow of coloured ribbon, then run a length of ribbon in and out of the holes at waist, and tie up the shoulder straps with a knot of ribbon, when the bib is finished. WOOL HAT FOR BABY BOY, 12 Months Old. No more charming little hat could be desired than the one from which these directions were taken. The model was for a child of one year, but very little alteration would be required for a smaller baby, only the brim being made smaller to fit his head. The ma- terials required are 5 ozs. of double Berlin wool, a medium bone hook, and two medium-sized steel knitting needles, i^ yd. of purl edged cream satin ribbon, the same both sides, and a Immg, either soft flannel sold for the purpose, sarcenet or sateen, about i a yard would suffice if for a small baby; a cap front will also be needed, ist row— make a chain of 4 stitches, join into a ring and work 2 double into each ;titch. 2nd row— * I double into the front loop and I into the back loop of first stitch, i double mto the back loop only of second stitch, repeat trom * all round. Repeat the 2nd row twice more. 5th row— plain, working into back loops only. 6th row— like the 2nd. Repeat the 5th and 6th rows 3 times more. 13th row— pass over every 3rd stitch. 14th row—* I double into the back loop of ist stitch, i into the front loop of 2nd stitch, repeat from * all round. 1 5th and i6th rows— like the 13th. 17th row— plain, picking up both loops. i8th and 19th rows- like the 17th. Fasten off. The full border is made by casting on 5 stitches on one knitting needle, ist row— plain. 2nd row—* take up the fi.rst stitch, then bring the wool to the front of the needle and pass it over the needle and round 2 fingers 3 times, then once round needle, only draw all together through the loop, keepmg the wool round the fingers until you have taken up the next stitch, repeat from *. 3rd row— plain. 4th row— same as 2nd; when you have enough to go round the front half of the hat, knit 2 stitches together and have 4 only for the back part, join the brim and sew the hat nicely into it and prepare the trimming. The large balls are made by laying about 60 strands of the wool evenly together, tie them tightly as for daisy fringe, taking care to leave the one strand uncut, about half the number of strands will make the small balls. Make 11 large balls and 12 small, sew them on thus— begin at left side just about where you will sew the string on, place one, another just above it, one next it higher still, the next one lower again on a level with the 2nd, the next on a level with the ist, one directly above it, one again close beside this, one immediately below the last, you have four close together like a square, now another on a level with the last to the right, one above this, and another slightly to the left above. Put two of the small balls m the centre of the brim a little to the right of the large ones, carry the re- mainder in a semicircular form over the crown and sew the last one just above the 6th large ball, now sew on the strings and line the hat, and it is ready for use. BABY'S GLOVES. For a pair you will require three-quarters of an oz. of best white Andalusian wool, half a yard of narrow white sarcenet ribbon at id. per yard, and a very fine bone crochet hook. Make a chain of 36 loose enough to take up the stitches, and unite by a slipstitch, work 3 rows of double crochet, taking the back part of stitch all through the glove. 4th row — treble into every stitch. 5th row — 16 treble, take the 17th and iSth stitches together, the rest of the row plain. 6th row — treble, no decreasing. 7th row — 16 treble, take the 17th and 18th stitches together, the rest plain. 8th row^^t^ble, no decreasing. 9th ro%y— 16 treble, take the 17th and i8th stitches together, the rest plain. loth row— i treble. I chain, miss I stitch; repeat all round, when you ought to have :i2 stitches or 16 holes; this row is to run the ribbon in. iith row i-double crochet into every stitch, but into the centre of i6th stitch THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. increase by working 3 instead of i stitch. 12th row — treble, and increase at centre stitch as above by working 3 into i. The next 2 rows you increase 6 stitches, by working 3 stitches into i on each side of the 3 centre stitches, the rest plain ; join these 12 stitches where you have been increasing, so as to form the thumb, and work on these stitches separately from the rest of the hand; .now work 4 rows in double crochet, then 2 more, decreasing every 2nd or 3rd stitch, by taking 2 stitches together, then sew up the top on wrong side. Now go on with the hand; you ought to have 30 stitches for the hand; work 2 rows of treble plain, I row treble, decreasing 4 stitches round ; 1 row, decreasing 3 stitches; now sew up neatly on the wrong side ; run the ribbon in and out of the row of holes, and tie in a neat bow, turn up the cuff to form a little gauntlet, on which work 3 chain, i double crochet into every other stitch; the cufif can be left down if wished, and will cover up the baby's arms. INFANT'S PETTICOAT IN RUSSIAN CROCHET. Carried out in white Andalusian wool. Make a chain of 54 stitches, and work 30 treble and 24 double crochet, i into every stitch. Always take the loop nearest the i st finger of the left hand and turn every row with i chain at the double crochet end, which is the bodice, and 3 chain at the treble end, which is the skirt. These chain stand for i stitch. The 2nd row is, of course, 24 double and 30 treble. Work 20 rows in this way for one half of the back, then leave 12 double for the armhole, work the other 12 and the 30 treble for 4 rows for under the arm, make a chain of 18, 6 being for the little strap, work 4 rows of 30 double and 30 treble, then 28 rows of 24 double and 30 treble for the front, 18 chain, 30 double and 30 treble for 4 rows, 12 double and 30 treble for 4 rows for under the arm, make 12 chain, and work 20 rows of 24 double and 30 treble for the other half of the back. The border. 1st row — round the skirt," I double crochet, I chain and repeat. 2nd row — i double into the ist space, * 3 chain, i double into the next space but one, and repeat from *; 3rd row — i double into the 1st space, * I chain, 4 treble into the next space, i chain, I double into the next space, and repeat from *. 4th row — i double into the space before the 1st 4 treble, * 4 chain, i double into the next space, i chain, i double into the next space, and repeat from *. 5th row — I chain, 5 treble with I chain between each into the 4 chain space, i chain, i double into the next space and i-epeat from the beginning of the row. Sew up the skirt and sew the little straps down to the backs. Add a scallop round neck and arrnholes, and cords in the neck and waist. CREEVE EDGING. Crochet a chain that will divide by 11, about twice as long as the length of edging required. Turn, miss 2, * i double stitch into each stitch 4 times, 3 double into next stitch, i double into each of next 4 stitches, miss 2 stitches of chain, and repeat from *. 2nd row — turn, miss i, and repeat from * in 1st row. Catch up only the back strand of stitch in this and 3 following rows. .Be care- ful always to have the 3 double into i stitch on the centre stitch . 20 of the 3 double of preceding row, and to miss the 2 stitches over ^he' 2 stitches missed in preceding row. RepeatiJnd row 3 times more till you have 5 rows of double crochet. 6th row — turn, 2 chain, I double on 3rd stitch of last row, catching up both sides of stitch, * 4 chain, i double into 5th stitch of last row, 4 chain, miss the top stitch of mitre, and i double into next stitch, 4 chain, miss 1 1, double into next stitch, 2 chain, miss the 2 last stitches of this mitre, and the 2 ist of the next mitre, i double into 3rd stitch of next mitre, repeat from * all along. 7th row — turn, I chain, 4 double in centre of last 4 chain, * 3 chain, i treble into next 1 chain (this 4 chain should be at the point of the mitre), 6 chain, 'i single into 3rd stitch of 6 chain, 2 chain, i treble into the same 4 chain into which you worked the last treble, 3 chain, 2 double into next 4 chain, 3 double into next 2 chain, 2 double into next 4 chain, repeat from * all along ; fasten off. For heading. — Work on opposite side of the mitres, i double on point of mitre where you always missed 2-. stitghes, 3 chairj,'! long treble into point of mitre where you alvvays'put 3 double' into- I stitch, 3 chain, repeat from * all along ; fast-en off.- 2nd row — commence on ist stitch of last row ; 4 chain, tniss i and work * I treble into next stitch, i chain, repeat from * all along ; fasten off. SHORTWAY EDGING. Make a foundation ' chain of 17 with fine knitting crochet cotton ' to fancy. ■ treble into of these • chain, 9 - treble into the next g; chain, * i chain, miss I foundation chain, i treble in the next ; repeat from * twice r^ore, 5 chain, turn the edging. 2nd . row — I treble into the ist hole ma-de by the chain of last row, * I chain, i treble into next hole ; repeat from * once more. I chain, r treble into the 2nd of the 9 treble of the last row, 7 chain, i treble in the next hole, i chain, i treble in the next hole, 4 chain, turn the- work. 3rd row — i treble into the ist hole of the last row, i chain, 9 treble in the hole made by the 7 chain of the last row, i chain,- i treble in the next hole twice more, 5 chain, turn ; repeat from the beginning of the second row. This edging may be made of any width, and looks particularly well with threads of coloured embroidery cotton darned in and out the small holes, or with - coloured ribbon run in and out the large holes. - PRETTY EDGING. sasassrS Make 10 chain, unite into around, work 10 double cro- ' chet into half the ring ; * ■ . make 10 chain and unite ' into a ring by slipstitching, into the last of the 10 double ; crochet of the last ring. ' Work 10 double into this ring on the same side as the last 10. Repeat from * for length '^ required. 2nd row — work back 10 double crochet into the other half of each ring. 3rd row — for the edging fasten on in the 5th double stitch, * S chain, slipstitch into the same hole. 6 chain slipstitch into the same, 5 chain slipstitch into the same, 5 chain i single into 5th double of next ring and repeat from *. For the : heading, put your needle into the 5 th double stitch, then make 3 ^ chain, miss 2 doubles, treble into the 3rd, 3 chain, i treble into the 3rd double of next ring. Repeat from *. Next row— 3 double crochet into every hole formed by 3 chain, which makes a strong foundation. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. Photograph Painting. Part II. Silk, Satin, and Cloth Fabrics. The secret of painting satin and silk well is to keep the shadows very dark and transparent, and the lights very bright. In a black satin dress the high lights would be painted pure white. In painting silk the lights would not be kept quite so bright, and the shadows not so dark. In painting black clotl), begin by laying on a thin wash of black. When this is dry, go over the shadows with black mixed with a little crimson lake. This must be repeated several times until the cloth is as dark as you want it. Now strengthen the shadows, using black, sepia, and crimson lake mi.xed. For the high lights it is better to use light red and Chinese white than pure white, which is sometimes done. Cloth fabrics of every colour are painted in this manner, but care must be taken to use the brush very lightly, so as not to remove the underneath colour. Black ■velvet: to paint velvet, a duplicate copy of the photograph is required, that is to say, you will want ttuo photographs, one to paint, the other you will want to use as a copy for the lights and shadows. The paint must be put on very thickly in shoit strokes, touching each other. This being opaque will obliterate all lights and shadows. When this is done the shadows (which must be copied from the duplicate photograph) are painted in with sepia. The lights are put in with black mixed with a little white, and then heightened with pure white. For crimson drapery carmine is used. The shadows are put in with crimson lake, and for the deepest shades sepia and lake. The high lights are vermilion, which, when dry, must be washed over very gently with carmine. Blues of all tints are shaded with sepia. The high lights are blue mixed with a little Chinese white. Pink is rose madder, shaded with lake, and high lights Chinese white. Hair Colours. In painting hair take care not to get the colour in streaks, but put it on in an even wash, which must be a transparent colour. The shadows must never be coloured with the local colour. Dark brown hair: sepia and lake, or sepia alone is sometimes used for this coloured hair, and the shadows are put in 'with brown madder. Grey hair : A thin wash of Indian ink is useful for this, shaded with a very little sepia ; high lights are white. Flaxen hair : the colour of this is yellow ochre, shaded with sepia. The high lights are yellow ochre and Chinese white. Chesntit hair : vandyke brown shaded with sepia. If there is a bright tinge on this hair, the high lights can be put in with a little cadmium yellow, if it is a golden tint ; and, if the tint is red gold, a little light red is used. Backgrounds. The colour for the background must always be in unison with the figure, so as to harmonise. For instance, a bright crimson curtam and blue chair would look very bad. Let all the colours blend together, so that the eye may not be distracted to one colour more than another. The figure being the principal object, the background is intended to bring it into greater relief, not throw it in the shade, as would be the case if the background were painted a bright colour. The best colours for fair people are blues and greys. Greys, cold and warm, are made of sepia, indigo, a little rose madder and Chinese white. This is of course opaque, being mixed with white. In putting in the first ground the brush must be worked in long strokes. The next ground must be put on in shorter strokes, and worked in the opposite direction. This must be repeated several times, working with shorter strokes each time, and, finally, the whole surface must be stippled, to make quisle a smooth surface. The shadow can be put in with sepia, stippling it very lightly. The outline round the head must be softened off. A transparent grey is made of indigo and sepia. This must first be washed over the background and then stippled. Stone colour, which is a very becoming tint, can be made with carmine, yellow ochre, and indigo. Sometimes you will find that the background will be covered with white spots, especially if the photograph is a copied one, or it may be old ; the only way to remedy this defect is to stipple a little sepia over each spot. Cobalt blue and madder brown make a very good ground colour, especially if used for fair people. Vol II. N(J. 14. Flesh Tints. Da7-k complexion: Light red and yellow ochre I generally use for this tint, and if the complexion is ruddy I add a little Indian ink, but the latter must be very sparingly used, as it is a very- powerful colour. The carnations (or. colour in cheeks) are chiefly carmine, with a little yellow cadmium stippled over it. Fair com- plexion : rose madder, or pink madder and cadmium yellow. Carnations are rose madder. For very fair children a little ver- million should be used in the flesh tint, and in the carnations of fair or dark children a little Vermillion is always used. For the benefit of those who do not understand how to mix paints for various shades I will give a few hints on the subject. Greens : burnt sienna, indigo, and Indian yellow make a very good dark green for draperies. A very bright green is formed of Prussian blue and Indian yellow. Indigo and gamboge make a good blue- green. These greens can be shaded with sepia and vandyke brown. A pale green is made with gamboge and emerald green. This is useful for ladies' dresses. The high lights should be white and pale chrome. Purples: Prussian blue and carmine or crimson lake form a very bright purple. It is not often used, as it is almost too gaudy. The following is a more useful colour — indigo and carmine ; this is generally used for draperies, and makes a very good dark purple. For mauve I should use Prussian blue and carmine mixed with Chinese white. The shadows should be put in with the transparent colours. ' A very good crimson for uniforms is made of vermillion and crimson lake, shaded v;ith lake, and in the darkest shadows sepia and lake. Ornaments. Cadmium yellow is very often used for gold ornaments, but I think the best colour is Roman ochre. Tinsel (that is gold and silver in shells) is often used when painting for the public, it looks pretty and so it is liked ; it is not true painting ; but if one lives by the public one must please the public. In painting stones the great thing is to get the lights very bright. An emerald you should paint bright green, and then put on a touch of Chinese white where the light appears in the photograph. The touch of white must be decided and bright. Besides this light there is a reflected light which is at the edge of the stone ; this is put in with white and afterwards glazed over with the green. The shading for gold orna- ments is burnt sienna, deepest shadow sepia. This shading should never be omitted, as this is the only w-ay by which the pattern of the ornament can be shown. If any of the readers of this article think of taking this painting up as a lucrative employment, by all means do so, but do not imagine by so doing you will make your fortune, for, I believe, there is no fortune to be made by photographic colouring; but a small addi- tion can be made to a slender income, or a girl living in her father's home can dress herself well by the money so earned. I have heard of those who have received ten guineas for a coloured photograph, but such instances of persons getting large sums are few and far between. In trying to get orders for painting I do not recommend your taking specimens of your work to shops and photographic studios. The shopmen do not like the bother of putting a specimen in the window and answering questions relative to it from customers, unless you were to give him a handsome commission, which would naturally take from the profits ; and, another thing, your specimen might remain a long time in the window without your getting a single order, during which time it would not be improved by the sun or the smuts. Then photographers pay so little, at the same time they expect very good work, and give very little time to do the work in ; they are hard to please, so, unless you could get a permanent post at a studio at a fixed sum per annum I should advise you to have no dealings with a photographer. Of course, if one were to hear of your painting and send some photographs to you I should not send them back, but what I mean is, don't depend on photograpkers for woi-k, but rather bring your work before the public by advertising. This is the only practical way. Advertise con- stantly in all the papers that have a column for the sale of ladies' work. Then, again, it is a bad plan to begin by charging high prices. I began by charging only sixpence a carte-de-visite. I made up my accounts at the end of each month ; the first month the balance was ?mall, but it gradually increased. It is not alsvays easy To hit upon an advertisement that will take, but, if jtju do, ymi 2] THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. will receive photographs every day, and this will be kept up during the year if you do the photos well, cheaply, and quickly. I have sometimes had as many as twenty photographs by one post. Then, when you get a little money, it is advisable to have printed a list oi your various prices. All your prices, of course, would not be alike; you would not charge the same for a photograph without a painted background as one with, nor the same for a single figure as a group, nor the same for fancy dress as for plain dress, &c., &c. Then as far as possible have payment in advance, or you will have some, I do not think many, bad debts. I have heard it said that " photograph colouring is a very nice occupation for evenings," but I do not agree with this. I have several times tried to paint photographs by gas-light and lamp-light, but could not succeed to do anything to my satisfaction, as the work is so fine. Another reason I do not recommend it is that it is very bad for the eyes. No, this is a work that requires the daylight. You want a table in the window (one v/ith two or three drawers in it is the best, in which to keep your photographs), and you must sit so as to have the light on your left-hand side. Art Needlework. Now that the dull days are coming so fast upon us, wool anti- macassars will take the place of the delicately worked canvas and white ones, in the general sitting room at all events. We know how- expensive an all wool one is, especially if double Berlin be used, therefore present our readers with three designed for the WORK Basket. Fig. i will be accepted on account of the quickness with which it canbe made, as well as the little expense; and when finished is most effective. We are all acquainted with the tapestry valance used for trimming mantel boards, brackets, &c., with its gold threads, giving it quite an Oriental appearance. i T f 1 I 1 r ,ki' I' II 1,1") 1} V 1 1 1 1l II U u tsi,N» ' ' Fig. I is composed of alternate stripes of this tapestry, with the fringes cut off, and tricot. Sew the fringes on at each end, or ball fringe can be used if preferred. Cardinal or green wool harmonises well with the trimming. A stripe composed of loops and double crochet forming a diamond looks well, but if you intend working a baby carriage wrap, tricot is better, and you can line it with flannel and sew ball fringes all round. Fig. 2 is worked on stripes of serge, sateen, velveteen or canvas , with crewels or silks, andcombined with black or brown canvas or plain material. Black canvas cloth and the pattern outlined with different coloured crewels has a very pretty effect. Fig. 2 was worked in stars of Fig. 3. yellow, green, and violet, the border was of green fastened down with yellow and cross bars of violet and green between. The stripes were worked on dark brown velveteen cut in points at each end, and finished with a tassel composed of the colours used. They are made by twisting the crewels round the fingers or a piece of cardboard, and the needle passed through and caught with a buttonhole stitch, then twist the wool round and round a little below so as to give it shape; a couple of yards of fringe, the little balls of which you can cut off and fasten on to each point answers very well, and saves both time and wool. Fig 3 is a simi- lar pattern, the stars being of al- ternate colours. The centres are worked across with one colour, and the others darned in and out. To draw the pat- tern on the ma- terial use French chalk, and com- mence by doing the square in the middle. While upon the subject of Art Needlework, we must mention a charming ar- rangement we saw from Paris. It was very simple but ex> ceedingly effec- tive. Fig. 2. Fig 4 gives an idea. The rings were formed with fawn colour chen- ille, the stalks of cord fastened down with fine silk, the leaves of silk "of two shades, and the little balls, or, rather, silk drops, were of two colours, one cardinal and the other pink, hanging loosely from the light drab canvas upon which the design was worked. It could oe reproduced in other colours, or black with cut bead drops would be exceedingly hand- some on satin. A propos of canvas, has any lady made antimacassars of the cheap material sold at drapers, about6|d. peryard? Pretty ones can be manufactured out . it, by outlining the pattern with crewels or silk, and finishing off the ends with deep lace, also outlined. WASHING Now Ready, price izd. AND LAUNDRY CHECK-BOOK. By Mrs. LEACH.— Containing How to Wnsh. Starch, and Iron, with valuable Recipes for Cleaning, Dyeing, &c., and printed Laundry Checks for six months. Of al Ne^rt'sVendors. Price 2d., or post free, three stamps, from R. S. Cabtwright. S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.G. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, Macfame Work. i Insertion. — Our model I is knotted with tapestry wool as follows : — Fold in half a J number of strands 16 inches long, and tie each in a double buttonhole knot, taking, of course, 2 doubled strands, and making with the first 2 a buttonhole knot over the last 2, and then vice versd. These knots are then pinned on to a weighted cushion, and a double foundation thread is laid across them. 1st row — 2 buttonhole knots with each strand in succes- sion over the foundation. 2nd row — 2 double knots with every 4 strands. 3rd row — like the ist. 4th row — * every 4 of the next 16 strands are put together to form i strand, pass the 3rd of these strands under the 2nd and over the ist, the 4th over the 2nd and under the ist, t twice alternately place the 8th end slantwise across the 7th to the ist, and work 2 buttonhole loops with each in succession over the ist, then repeat once from t, and then from *. 5th to 8th rows— like the 3rd and 4th alternately, but the pattern of the even numbered row must occur in reversed position, gth and loth rows — like the 2nd and ist. nth row — I double buttonhole knot with every 4 strands. The ends are then turned back, and fastened down on the wrong side and cut off close, FRINGE. Fold in half 162 strands of silk about 2 yards long and knot them to a double foundation thread tied in a circle. 1st round — 1 double knot with every 4 strands. 2nd round — a double foundation thread is laid across the strands, close under the knots, 2 buttonhole knots with every strand in succession over the founda- tion thread. 3rd round — I double knot with every 8 strands, using the centre 4 as a foundation. 4th round — 8 half double knots with the last 4 of one pattern and the first 4 of the ne.xt, using the centre 4 of these 8 strands as a foundation. 5 th and 6th rounds — like the 3rd and 2nd. 7th round — every pattern requires 18 strands. * Twice alternately place the ist strand across the 2nd to the gth and work over it 2 buttonhole knots with each strand in succession, then work a similar pattern, but in reversed position, with the loth to the 17th, then I double knot with the centre 4 of the 18 strands ; repeat from *. 8th round — I double knot with every 3 strands, using only I strand as a foundation. 9th round — like the 7th. loth round — 3 double knots with the last 9 of one pattern and the first 9 of the next, using the centre 16 as a foundation, nth to 13th rounds— like the 7th to the 9th. 14th round — everj' pattern requires 36 strands, and takes in the last 9 of the 1st pattern and the first 9 of the next but one ; * I double knot with the 7th, 8th, 9th, loth, i ith, and 12th strands, and with the 25th, 26th, 27th, 28th, 29th, and 30th, using the centre 4 as a foundation, then I double knot with the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and gth, the loth to the 15th, the 22nd to the 27th, and the 2Sth to t^.e , using 2 strands as a foundation, then 6 times i double knot the next 6 of the same 36 strands, using 4 strands as a with foundation ; repeat from *. 1 5th round — * 5 separate double knots with the centie 30 of the 36 strands, using 2 strands as a foundation, then 4 separate double knots with the centre 24, using 4 as a foundation, then 3 separate double knots with the centre 18, using 2 as a foundation, then 2 separate double knots with centre 13 strands, using 4 as a foundation, then i double knot with centre 6 strands, using 2 as a foundation ; repeat from *. 16th round — for the outline of every vandyke * place the last 2 strands of one pattern over the ist of the next, and work over them 2 buttonhole loops with each of the 6 in succession, then place the 3rd and 4th strand over the 5th and 6th, and work with the latter 2 buttonhole knots in succession, 2 buttonhole knots with the 1st foundation strands, and with the 7th to the gth over 3rd and 4th, then place the 8th and gth strands over the loth to the 1 2th, and work 2 buttonhole knots with them and with the former foundation strands, and with the next 3 strands over the 8th and gth, and so on to the end of the vandyke. The other half of the outline is worked in the same pattern, but in reverse order. I double knot is worked with the centre 6 strands at the end of each vandyke, using 4 strands as a foundation ; repeat from *. Then knot the remaining strands to form the fringe as shown in the illustration, adding fresh strands when necessary. The "Excelsior" Pattern. This pattern is worked in fine linen thread. Knot a number of strands 12 inches long on a double foundation strand ; the number should be divisible by 24. 1st row; A cord over a second foun- dation strand. 2nd row ; * Leave the first 2 strands unnoticed and the 23rd and 24th over ever>' 24 strands,_ 3 buttonhole knots with the 5th, with the 6th, with 3rd, 5th, and 6th 3 macrame knots over the 4th, with 7th to lOth, nth to 14th, 15th to i8th, and I gth to 22nd work similar patterns, then with 6th and 5th 2 macrame knots over 7th, with 7th over 8th, 2 buttonhole knots, with 17th, igth, and 20th strands 3 macramn knots, over 1 8th, then 2 buttonhole knots with iSth over 7th*. 3rd row: * With 1st twice as leader, 5 macram^ knots with 2nd to 6th strands, with nth twice as leader in opposite direction 4 macrame knots with loth to 7th, and a corresponding pattern with 14th twice as leader and 4 macrame knots with 15th to iSth in opposite direction, with 23rd to igth over 24th as leader twice, 5 macrame knots in opposite direction; repeat from *. 4th row — ■* with 4th as leader, 3 macram^ knots with 3rd to ist, then 3 macrame knots with ist to 3rd, the 4th still being; the leader and held slanting to the right ; repeat this twice, then with 21st as leader a similar pattern with 24th to 22nd, with 5th twice as leader, 3 macrame knots with 6th to 8th, with 20th twice as leader in opposite direction 3 macrame knots with 19th to 17th strands, with 14th over 13th, 2 buttonhole knots, and 3 macrame knots over nth with iith, 13th and 14th, 2 buttonhole knots with 15th over i6th, 2 with llth over 12th ; repeat from *, but in each repetition join the new pattern to the last, as shown in illustration, by drawing the leader-strand through the last pattern with a crochet hook. 5th row— like the 3rd, but in reverse position. 6th row—* leave Ist and last 2 strands unnoticed, with 3rd to loth and 16th to 22nd, a pattern like that with gth to 16th strands in 4th row, with 13th twice as leader, 3 macrame knots with 14th, I2th, and ilth strands ; repeat from *. 7th, Sth, and gth rows— like 3rd, 4th, and jth rows. loth and lith rows— like the 1st. Now tie the 1st and last 12 strands over each other, sew them firmly together and hang 1 5 new 4 inch strands over the knot, bind the whole into a tassel and cut the ends even. New Edition. Oust Out. Price Twopence. HOW^ TO DANCE, By an M.C. Giving the Steps and Figures of all the New and Conntiy Dances, with Dictionary of French Terms used in Danciog ; lUustrations of Ball-KooiB Dresses, Hair-dressing, &c. Post free, Three Stamps. POCKET EDITION, handsomely bound, sent free by post m envelope for 7 stamps. K. CAKiKKii.Hr, ?, Johnson's Court, Fleet Strett, Loudon, E.C. •2.3 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Bead Work. Dresses are to be very much beaded this winter, both for walking and evening wear, so those ladies who wish to have a handsome front or panel for their dress would do well to commence working one at once. We present our readers with three sprays which can be reproduced in black or pearl beads with equal effect. No. i worked Fig. I. in white bugles and pearls on satin would be charming for the front of an evening dress, either blue or pink, or on net over colour. The most effectual way is to trace the pattern out on tissue paper, tack on to the material, and tear away when finished. No. 3 is a larger spray, and would do nicely for the comers of draperies, &c. All three patterns are outlined with cut glass beads. Worked on brown Fig. 3. satin or velvet, in gold and bronze beads, either spray would be most effective. Ten or eleven sprays would be sufficient to cover the Fig. 4. front of the dress. No. 4 is a border useful for working round a jacket or apron, &c., and can be worked either with bugles and round beads, or the former only, according to taste and the time available to expend upon it. Any lady who copies these patterns may be sure she has something fresh, as they have been expressly designed for the Fancy Work-basicet, 24 Fig. 3. NOW READY. The November Number of Mrs. LEACH'S PRACTICAL FAMILY DRESSMAKER With which is presented Monthly A Magnificent Coloured Plate of the latest Paris Fashions, All the latest designs of Mantles and Ulsters for the coming season, In-door and Out-door Toilettes, Evening Costumes. 50 engravings. 32 pages of letterpress. A New Christmas Story. By C. M. D. Answers to correspondents ; the hair and its care ; new trimming for nightdress ; bulb culture in winter ; cookery i-ecipes ; home adornment ; Chinese dinner giving ; and a voluminous amount of original reading. Of all Newsvendors, price 2d. ; or post free, od., from B, S. CASTWEIGHT, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, Londoa B.C. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. WORK BAG. The sketch represents a new and very convenient form of work-bag, which we will endeavour to describe as clearly as possible. It is really a cardboard box without alid, and with asilk bag added to the upperpart. A bo.x in which candles have been bought [ would answer very well. A very good size is one in which the bottom of the box mea- *sures about 9 inches one way, and about 5 the other, the sides being about 4 or 5 inches deep. The outside of the box must first of all be very smoothly and neatly covered with plush (peacock-blue is a pretty colour to use) and the in- side lined with silk or sateen of a corresponding tint. If it is wished very elaborate, an elegant de- sign, either a conventional floral pattern or the initials of the owner, may be embroidered on the plush before it|is stretched over the cardboard. This done, the bag at the top must be prepared ; it should be about twice as deep as the sides of the box, vrith 4 inches over for the hem, and wide enough to fit easily all round the plush-covered box. The two sides must first be joined together to make a circle of the satin, and a deep hem about 3 inches wide run at the top with a running in the middle, so that a cord can be run in to close the mouth of the bag. The lower edge must be stitched very neatly and strongly to the edge of the box, or if preferred it may be cut deep enough to reach to the bottom of the box, and so serve for bag and lining all in one. In this case, only the bottom of the box need he lined. If the stitches made by joining the bag to the box look at all unsightly, they may be hidden by a line of gold cord, gimp, or, with better effect still, by a piece of fancy tassel or ball fringe, of which there are so many tempting varieties to be had now. Round boxes make even prettier work-bags than square ones do, indeed, with a muslin bag instead of a silk one, and with the outside of the box itself ornamented with coloured relief scraps, they make very gay and pretty receptacles for sugar-plums on a Christmas tree. Knitting. HAT FOR BABY BOY. Materials required: i oz. of Andalusian wool, 6 skeins of filoselle, 3 yards of satin ribbon, J yard of sateen, a cap front, a pair of steel needles No. 8, bell gauge. Pattern for crown, ist row — purl with wool. 2nd row— knit I, * knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of row. 3rd row — with silk knit i, pick up i to end of row. 4th row — plain with wool. This is all the pattern for the crown. Cast on 25 stitches, increase at the beginning of every row til! you have 50 stitches, then do 4 inches without increasing ; then decrease at the begi«ning of every row till you have 25 stitches. Cast off. Border. Cast on 250 with silk, knit i plain row. Then with wool knit i, knit 2 together, * wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit i, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 3, repeat from *. Purl back. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Knit 4 rows plain. Knit within 50 of end, turn, knit within 50 of other end, turn and knit these middle stitches till you have 8 rows of plain from the fancy row, then knit to end and make a row of holes to draw ribbon through, thus: throw the wool over the needles at every stitch, knit 4, wool forward, knit 2 together to end. Knit i plain row. Knit 1 plain row, decreasing every 4th stitch to draw it in, cast off. Sew easily round crown and draw ribbon through holes. Make a stiff muslin crown, stretch the knitting on, draw the ribbon to fit [and tie bow behind. Make 2 feathers of loop knitting, begin with 2 stitches and increase at beginning of row till you have 23, or as many as you like. De- crease last 3 rows and cast off. .Sew on a piece of ribbon wire. Put in head lining, border and strings, and sew on feathers and a bow at side.^ PETTICOAT FOR LADY FOR WINTER. This petticoat is one of the prettiest designs we have seen, and is universally admired. It is made of petticoat wool of a warm crimson shade; l.^ lbs- are required. The needles used are bone, long length,^ No. 8. The bottom of the petticoat is finished with a simple crochet edging, which can easily be renewed from time to time as it wears out ; as petticoats usually become worn at this part, while the rest remains perfectly sound, this plan will be found to possess great advantages. It is always adxnsable to keep over a skein of wool after having completed the petticoat for this purpose, to avoid the difficulty of matching the shade afterwards. The first part worked is the flounce, for which cast on 50 stitches, ist row^knit 50 stitches. 2nd row— knit 3, purl 47. 3rd row — knit 50. 4th row — knit 3, purl 47. 5th row — knit 50. 6th row — knit 50. 7th row— purl 47, leave 3 stitches on the and needle, turn back. 8th row — knit 47. 9th row — purl 47, knit 3. loth row — knit 50 ; repeat from ist row 67 times more, which completes the width of the flounce. For crochet edging work with a coarse bone crochet hook in the following way along the bottom edge of flounce *, I double in centre of the ist 5 rows, 5 long treble in centre of 2nd 5 rows ; repeat from * all along, break off wool. Pick up 279 stitches along the top edge of flounce and knit backwards and forwards. If the long rows are found tiresome to knit, they can be worked in 3 divisions ; 99 stitches in the ist ; 90 in the 2nd ; 90 in the 3rd. Of course the joins will somewhat detract from the 25 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. beauty of the ivork when completed, ist row— purl. 3nd row — knit. 3rd row— purl. 4th row— knit. 5 th row— purl. 6th row- knit. 7th row—* knit 8, purl i ; repeat from *. 8th row- knit 2, * purl 6, knit 3 ; repeat from *. 9th row— purl 2 * knit 4, purl 5 ; repeat from *. 1 0th row— knit 4 * purl 2, knit 7 ; repeat from*, nth row — purl. 12 th row — same as rethrow. 13th row — same as 9th row. 14th row — same as 8th row. 15th row— same as 7th row. 1 6th row — * knit. 17th row — purl ; repeat from * twice more. 22nd row — * knit 2, purl 2 ; repeat from *. 23rd row— rib as in 22nd row. 24th row—* purl 2, knit 2 ; repeat from* 25th row— rib as in 24th row ; repeat the last 4 rows 5 times more. 46th row—* knit. 47th row— purl; repeat from * twice more. 52nd row— purl 8, knit i. 53rd row— purl 2 * knit 6, purl 3 ; repeat from *. 54th row— knit 2 * purl 4, knit 5 ; repeat from *. 55th row — purl 4 * knit 2, purl 7 ; repeat from *. 56th row— knit. 57th row — same as 55th row. 58th row— same as 54th row. sgth row — same as S3rd row. 60th row — same as S2nd row. 71st row — * purl. 72nd row— knit ; repeat from * twice more. 77th row—* knit 4, purl 4 ; repeat from * ; rib thus until there are 50 rows of ribbing worked. 51st row— knit i, knit 2 together, knit I, purl 4 ; repeat from *. 52nd row — knit 3 * purl 3, knit 4; repeat from *; work 7 more rows in the same ribbing. 6oth row — knit 7 stitches in garter stitch ; finish the row with ribbing as before ; cast on 7 stitches, which are always to be knitted in garter stitch for the vent ; seven stitches are always to be worked in garter stitch at the other end of the row to correspond to the 7 stitches now cast on. These 7 stitches should be cast on at the left hand edge of the petticoat, when held with the right side next the worker. Work ten more rows of ribbing with garter stitch at the beginning and end of each row as directed. 71st row— knit 2, cast off 2, knit 3, knit 2 together * purl 3, knit 2, knit 2 together ; repeat from *. 72nd ow — knit 7 * knit 3, purl 3 ; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain, knit 2, cast on 2, knit 3; work 18 more rows in the same ribbing, gist row — knit 2, cast off 2, knit 2, knit 2 together * purl 3, knit I, knit 2 together ; repeat from *. 92nd row — knit 7 * knit 3, purl 2 alternately till 7 remain, knit 2, cast on 2, knit 3. Work 18 more rows in the same ribbing, iiith row — knit 2, cast off 2, knit 3, * purl 2 together, purl i,knit2; repeat from*. il2throw— knit 7,*knit 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * till 7 remain, knit 2, cast on 3, knit 3 ; cast off all across. Sew the petticoat to a strong narrow piece of tape measuring the width of wearer's waist, sew on 3 pearl buttons cor- responding to the button-holes. Sew up the back of the petticoat and secure the. flap of vent firmly in its place. This petticoat will measure 33 inches from the bottom to the top of the band. If any alteration is required in the length, it can -be effected by putting more or less rows between the narrowings in the band as the case may be. If less rows are worked, the vent should be started lower down, or it will be too short for com.fort or wear. PENCE PURSE IN THE SHAPE OF A SCOTCH BONNET. One skein of red single Berlin wool, i of white, and 4 of vei-y dark green wool ; 4 steel needles, about No. 1 8. Cast on 48, 16 on each needle with the red wool. ist round — plain. 2nd round — * 3 plain with white, 3 purl red ; repeat from * all round. The wool that is not actually in use must be passed round at the back of the work, but not drawn up tightly when it is next required. Knit 5 rounds in this way, then 5 rounds with the colours reversed, that is, the red stitches placed over the white of the preceding rounds, and the white placed over the red. Next, knit 5 rounds like the first 5, and 2 plain rounds with red. This completes the band of the bonnet and forms a sort of simple plaid. Now join the green. iSth and 19th rounds — plain knitting. 20th — plain, increase i in every 3 stitches by knitting twice in the same stitch. 2 1st and 22nd rounds — increase in the same way, then there should be 75 stitches on the needles. Knit 21 rounds plain without any increasing. 43rd round — knit 2 together every 3rd stitch. 45th and 46th rounds — plain without any decreasing. 47th round — decrease as before. 48th round — plain. 49th round — decrease after every 2 stitches. 50th round — plain. 51st round — decrease every other stitch. 52nd round— plain. 53rd round — decrease every stitch and cast off any that are not used up at the end of the round. Close the top closely and soak the bonnet in water all night with a small weight in the crown to keep it flat. Let it dry without removing the weight, and finally make a little 26 tuft of green wool, well cut and combed out and sew to the centre of the crown. Full directions were given for making a similar tuft to this inNo. 10 of the Fancy Work-Basket, so there can be no reason for going into details again. THE BEASLEY PATTERN FOR SHAWLS. Commence by casting on 41 stitches, that is 37 stitches for the pattern, and 2 at each edge for a boundary line. The pattern divides by 12, but there must always be one stitch extra at the end of the last pattern. 1st row — knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 to- gether, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool for- ward, knit 3. 2nd row — knit 2j purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make I, purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make I, purl i, knit 2. 3rd row — knit 4, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, 2 together, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, 2 together, wool forward, knit 4. 4th row — knit 2, purl 3, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make i, purl 5, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 to- gether, make i, purl 5, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 to- gether, make i, purl 3, knit 2. 5th row — knit 6, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 7, wool for- ward, knit 2 together, knit i, 2 together, wool forward, knit 7, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 3 together, wool forward, knit 6. 6th row — knit 2, purl 5, make i, slip i, purl 2 together, pass the shpstitch over, make i, purl 9, make i, slip 1, purl 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over, make i, purl 9, make i, slip i, purl 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, purl 5, knit 2. 7th row — knit 6, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool for- ward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. Sth row — knit 3, purl 4, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make I, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make I, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make I, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 4, knit 2. 9th row — knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, make i, knit 2 to- gether, knit I, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 1, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2[together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3. loth row — knit 2, purl 4, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make I, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i,purl 2 together, purl 4, knit 2. nth row— knit 4, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2together,wooIforward,knit i, wool forward, 2 together, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 4. 12th row — knit 2, purl 4, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 4, knit 2. 13th — same as nth. 14th — saxT.e as 12th. 15th row — knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, wool forward, slip i, knit 2 together, and pass the shpped stitch over, wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, wool forward, slip i, knit 2 together, and pass the slipped stitch over, wool forward, knit 2, knit 3 together, wool foi- THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. ward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2. i6th row — knit 2, purl 4, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 4, knit 2. 17th row — knit 6, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool for- ward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. iSth row — knit 2, purl 4, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make I, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 4, ' knit 2, make i. igth row — knit 5, knit 2 together, wool forward, ' knit 3, v.'ool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5. 20th row — knit 2, purl 2, purl 2 together, make i, pur) 5, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make i, purl 5, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, Durl 2 together, make i, purl 5, make i, purl 2 together, purl 2, knit 2. 2ist row— knit 3, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 7, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 7, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 7, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3. 22nd row — knit 2, purl 2 together, make i, purl 9, make i; slip I, purl 2 to- gether, take the slipped stitch over, make i, purl 9, make i, slip i, purl 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make I, purl 9, make i, purl 2 together, knit 2. 23rd row — knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3. 24th row — knit 2, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make I, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, knit 2. 25th row — knit 3, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i,wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, 2 together, knit i, 2 together, wool forward, knit 3. 26tli row — knit 2, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, malve i, purl i, knit 2. 27th row — knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together twice, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together twice, wool forward, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together twice, wool forward, knif3, wool forward, knit 2 together twice, wool for- ward, knit I, wool forward, 2 together twice, wool forward, knit 3, wool , forward, knit 2 together twice, wool forward, knit 3. 28th row — knit K 2, purl I, make I, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl ' I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make I, purl i, knit 2. 29th row — same as 27th. 30th row-r- same as 28th. 31st row — knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, wool forward, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, wool forward knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 to- gether, knit 2, wool forward, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, wool for- ward, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, wool forward, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3. 32nd row — knit 2, purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, make I, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, knit 2. Repeat from the ist row. BRACELETS. Materials requii'ed : — I ball of Cocoon knitting wool, a pair of steel knitting pins (size 17), 2 bunches of steel beads, a crewel or very fine wool needle, and i yard of black satin ribbon, I inch in width. Thread 116 beads on to your ball of wool, push them well down, and cast 12 stitches on to your needle ; knit I row plain. 2nd row— knit 1st stitch, then push i of the beads quite close up to your knitting needle, knit the 2nd stitch. but do not bring the bead round to the other side with your wool, keep it the side from you ; continue this to the end of the row always pushing the beads, one at a time, close to the needle at each stitch. Now you see you have an even row of beads Turn the knitting round (the beads towards you), knit i row plain then the ne.xt row beads as before. Continue this alternately i row plain, next beads, until you have 56 rows of beads, 11 in each row Then knit 2 rows of plain knitting, and cast off. Join the two ends together, and finish with a small satin ribbon bow, which will cover the plain part where the ends are joined. This makes a very nreltv as well as xvarm present, and looks very elegant if evenly done I ball of Cocoon vvool will make fully 3 pairs of bracelets. If pre- ferred small black bugle beads may be used, or moonshine, in fact any fancy bead, according to taste. STRIPED DESIGN FOR SHAWLS. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by 8, and 4 extra for edge stitches. 1st row— knit 2, purl 2, knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together knit I, purl 2, knit 2. 2nd row— purl 2, knit 2, purl i, makel, purl 2 together, purl i, knit 2, purl 2; repeat from ist row. PETTICOAT For I Year. Materials : — white merino wool (5 ply) 5 skeins, needles. No. 15. Cast on 20 stitches, purl a row. 1st row — knit 2, wool forivard, knit to end. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — knit 2, wool forward, knit i6 and turn (lea\ing 3 on needle.) 4th row — purl. 5th row — knit 2, wool forward, knit to end. 6th row— knit. 7th row — knit 2 together, purl to end. 8th row — knit. 9th row — knit 2 together, purl to end. loth row— knit, knitting the last 2 together. Repeat these 10 rows 30 times. The purl stripe, which is taken in, is to be on the outside. Pick up 105 stitches at top of frill. 1st row — plain knitting. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — purl. 5th row — plain. 6th row — plain. 7th row — slip I, purl I, knit i, * purl 9, knit i, repeat from * 8 times, purl 2. 8th row — slip i, purl I, knit i, purl I, * knit 7, purl i, knit i, purl r, repeat from * S times, knit i. 9th row — slip i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, * purl 5, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, repeat from * S times. loth row — slip i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit I purl I, ** knit 3, * purl i, knit i, repeat from * twice, purl i, repeat from** S times, nth row — slip i, purl i, knit i ; repeat to end. I2th row — slip i, purl i, knit i ; repeat to end. 13th row — slip I, purl I, knit i ; repeat to end. 14th row — slip i, pml i, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, * knit 3, purl I, knit i, purl I, knit 1, purl I, knit I, purl I, repeat from * 8 times. 15th row — slip i, purl knit 1, purl I, knit i " repeat from * 8 times *1 l6th .. w... ^ . - _, — — — J- -, , -, purl 5, knit I, purl I, knit I, pm-1 I, knit I, icpcctmuiii - o iiiiica. lOth low — slip I, purl I, knit I, purl I,* knit 7, purl I, knit i, purl i, repeat from*8times. 17th row — slip i, purl i, knit I, * pu -1 9, knit I, repeat from * S times. i8th row — slip i, knit plain. 19th row — knit plain. 20th row — purl. 21st row — knit plain plain 3, knit I9tl 22nd row — purl pla 23rd row — plain. 24th row— slip i, * purl repeat to end from *. 25th row — slip i, knit 3, purl THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, repeat to end. 26th rov/— slip i, purl i, * knit 2, purl 3 ; repeat to end. 27th row— slip i, * purl 3, knit 3 ; repeat to end. Repeat these last 4 rows 20 times. Then slip i, * knit 3, purl 2 ; repeat to end. Slip I, * purl 3, knit 2 ; repeat to end. Repeat these 2 rows 32 times, mailing in all 64 rows for the length of the bodice. Knit 17 stitches for shoulder band for 21 rows. Cast off to within 17 stitches of end, and knit the other shoulder hand. Knit the other half of petticoat,'" and join, finishing at neck and sleeves with a small crochet edging. OPERA WRAP. This pretty and becoming wrap can be made in any two colours to suit the taste of the wearer. 5 ozs. of double white Berlin wool and i oz. of Shetland in some light colour, such as pale pink or blue, will be required. Use two very coarse wooden or bone knitting needles. The bow at the top should be made of ribbon to match the coloured wool and will take f of a yard. With the Berlin wool cast on 90 stitches. Knit 2 rows plain like a garter. Take the Shetland wool, but do not break off the Berlin wool and knit 2 rows plain, Again take the Berlin and knit 2 rows; continue in this way till you have 25 stripes of each colour. Knit another stripe of the white wool and cast off". Gather this last row together with a needle and thread and sew the bow on the top of the gathers. Finish the other end of the wrap with a fringe of Berlin wool. Cut the wool into lengths of 9 inches and knot 2 lengths into each stitch of the first row. The end that is gathered in forms a hood. The side of the work in which there is a rib on the thick stripes is the right side. Fancy wools, such as Filo Zephyr and spangled ice wool, look extremely pretty in this stitch. Just Out, Price 2d. Household Account and Cookery Book. BY Mk3. leach. Containing Printed Pages for Housekeeping Expenses for Six Months, Middle-clasa Cookery, and Servants' Duties, &c. Post free, three stamps. 28 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, IMITATION SHOE AND SOCK FOR INFANT. Materials required : — i oz. of white and i oz. of blue Berlin wool, 4 steel needles, No. 14, 2 pearl buttons. Cast on 42 stitches, ist j-ow — purl. 2nd row— knit I, purl 3 together, knit I without slip- ping off the stitch, wool forward, knit i into the same stitch, making 3 in the i stitch, purl 3 together and knit 3 in i alternately to the end; the last stitch is always knitted plain. Every alternate row is purled. 4th row— knit i, make 3 in i, purl 3 together to the end. 6th row — same as 2nd. Continue these rows until 6 patterns are done, knit i plain row, now knit I, knit 2 together, knit 10, knit 2 together, knit 12, knit 2 together, knit 10, loiit 2 together, knit i, tliis finishes the row. Now knit 12, take another needle and knit 14, leaving 12 on the other side needle. Commence tire pattern on these 14 centre stitches and work until 4 patterns are done, knit 12 plain rows and cast off; join the blue wool at the right hand side, pick up 33 stitches at the side and 7 of the cast off ones on I needle, take another needle, pick up the other 7 cast off stitches, and 33 the other side, knit i8 rows plain. 19th row — knit plain, decrease by knitting the last 2 of the ist needle and the ist 2 of the 2nd needle. 20th row— plain. 21st row — plain; decrease at the toe as before. 22nd row — knit I, take 2 together, then knit plain until you come to the last 3, take 2 together, knit i. 23rd row- plain; decrease at the toe as before. 24th row — knit i, take 2 together, knit plain to the last 3, take 2 together, knit i, place the 2 needles together and cast off, and sew up at the back. For the strap cast on 40 stitches in blue, knit i plain row and cast off ; make a loop at one end, sew a pearl button on the other. PATTERN FOR TOILET COVERS, &c. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by 2, with 4 additional stitches for the border on each side, ist row — slip I, knit the rest. 2nd row — slip I, knit I, * shp i, taking it as in purling, but keeping the wool at the Isack of the needle, knit 3, repeat fiom *, knit the 2 last. 3rd row — slip I, knit the rest plain. 4th row — slip i, knit I, * slip I as in 2nd row, knit i, repeat from * knit the 2 last, repeat frorh the 1st row. TRAVELLING CAP. This cap is a suitable and warm covering for the head for gentle- men traveUing; it is knitted in one piece. You require 5 knitting needles and 3 ozs. of single brown Berlin wool. Cast on i needle 60 stitches, and knit 8 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl; in the 9th row in- crease I stitch between the first and second stitches, also between the 2 last. Knit 8 rows more ribbing. In the 18th row increase again as in the 9th. The increasings are made by knitting back and front on one stitch. Knit 8 rows more ribbing. Increase m the 27th row as in the 9th. Knit 2 rows more ribbing. On the 3 needles that have not been used cast 80 stitches, join them into a round with the first needle ; you now have 4 needles to work on, you work with the 5th needle. Knit 46 rounds of 2 purl, 2 plain, keeping the rib as before, when you come to the needle that you have been knitting on with 2 pins, increase 2 stitches, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. I at each end. 74th row — knit 2^ stitches; in each of the 4 next stitches, increase i, knit 33. These increasings are on the piece that was knitted on 2 needles. Knit 5 more rows. You now leave the 3 needles which form the front or comforter, and work with 2 needles only (the needle where you hegan the increasings), which is for the back of the head. * In the next row increase 4 stitches in the centre as before. Knit 5 more rows ribbing, repeat from * 3 more times. Then repeat again 3 more times with 8 rows between each increase instead of 5. Knit 7 more rows of ribbing. Cast off 35 stitches in the next row at the begin- ning and end of the needle, and knit the centre stitches only. Knit 45 rows ribbing; you now leave this needle. You now pick up on each side of the flap 27 stitches, the part just before the 45 rows last knitted, take up the side first nearest to where the place you left off. You now knit 3 rows all round, keeping the rib; finish the round just before the 27 stitches last raised, knit 25 of these and then take 2 together. Now knit the throat, and then take 2 to- gether at the commencement of the next needle; finish ribbing the round, then 2 more rows with no decreasings. In the next round decrease as before, then knit 8 more rows of ribbing and cast off. You must now sew stitch by stitch the 35 stitches left on each side the face to the piece for the top of the head. Fasten all ends off neatly. Needles No. 14 should be used. ANTIMACASSAR IN RAISED PLAIT PATTERN. This handsome article is worked in stripes, which are afterwards crocheted together. Five stripes compose it, alternate rose-pink and olive-green, viz., a rose-pink in the centre and at each side, and an olive stripe between. The rose-pink stripes have a full olive tassel tied with yellow, and the olive stripes tassels of rose-pink, also tied with yellow. The stripes are crocheted together with yellow. 9 ois. of rose-colouied petticoat wool will be required, 7 of olive, I oz. of yellow, a pair of bone needles, No. 12, and a rather fine bone hook. For the raised plait pattern — cast on 28 stitches, ist row — knit plain. 2nd row — knit 12, turn, * purl 4, turn, slip i, knit 3 ; repeat from * 18 times ; slip the 4 stitches off your needle, letting them be for the present, slip 4 stitches off the left-hand needle on to the right, then pick up the 4 loose stitches you just left ; this forms the plait, knit to the end of the row. 3rd row — knit 4, purl 12, knit 4. 4th row — knit 4, purl 8, * turn, shp 1, knit 3, turn, purl 4 ; repeat from * 18 times ; slip the 4 stitches off as before, slip 4 stitches off the left-hand needle on to the right, then pick up the loose stitches, and knit to the end of the row ; repeat from the 1st row for the length required ; then cast off. The model was 45 patterns deep. To join the stripes put them together, and put a double crochet into each loop. Make the tassels 4 inches long. Crochet through the centre, 3 chain, join to the middle of the stripe, and tie round an inch fro m the top. Ladies who prefer to make their own under garments should buy Mrs. Leach's How to Make Underclothing, price 2d. The most charming patterns are illustrated therein, and the most elaborate trousseau could be designed fi-om its pages. No less may the simplest taste find something to please. This publication also supplies some very useful hints and ideas on relative matter. FICHU IN Ki;iTTIXG AND CROCHET. This fichu is simply made, and may be knitted either in ice silk orwool, the model v.-as salmon pink ; they are very use- ful for wearing round the neck. About 2 ounces of wool v.ill be re- quired. Pins 1 3 or 14. Commence at one corner with 5 stitches, knit backwards and fonvards in plain knitting, increas- ing I stitch at the commence- ment of every 4th row until the work is 10 inches across, then decrease in the same proportion as you increased. For the edge use crochet hook No. 9 or 10. ist row — i double into edge of knitting, S chain, pass over 2 rows, and repeat. 2nd row — i double into 3rd of 5 chain, 5 chain and repeat. Repeat 2nd row 4 times more, or as often as wished. PATTERN FOR SHAWLS, &c.. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by 2 and 1 extra, which is always knitted plain at the end of e\^eiy row. ist and every succeeding row, knit 2 together, make i, and repeat. THE "HOLLY'' PATTERN FOR SHAWLS, &c. Cast on as many stitches as are required for the width, allowing 10 stitches for each pattern, and 10 extra for edge stitches. Knit 10 plain rows. 1st row — knit 5, * knit i, make i, knit 2, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit I, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, repeat from *, knit 5 at the end of the row. 2nd row — knit 5, * make I, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl i, purl 2 together, 29 THfi FANCV WORK-BASKET. purl 2, make i, purl i, repeat from *, knit 5 at the end of the row. 3rd row— same as ist row. 4th row— same as 2nd row. 5th row —knit 5,* knit i,make i,knit2,shp i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 5, repeat from * knit 5 at the end of the row. 6th row ^knit 5, purl to within 5 stitches at the end and knit those. 7th fow— knit S *,knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit i, make 1, knit 2, slip I, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat from * knit s at the end of the row. 8th row— knit 5*, purl 2 together, purl 2, make i, purl I, make i, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl i, repeat from * knit 5 at the end of the row. 9th row— same as the 7th row. loth row— same as the 8th. nth row— knit 5, * knit 5, make i, knit 3, slip I, knit i, pass the shpped stitch over, repeat from *, knit 5 at the end of the row. 12th row— knit 5, purl to withm 5 stitches of the end and knit those. Knit 10 plain rows. INFANT'S OVERALL COMBINATION DRAWERS AND SOCKS. This comfortable little garment is in- valuable either for outdoor wear in win- ter, or for a restless baby to wearat night. The materials re- quired are 2 skeins of Baldwin's beehive petticoat fingering wool and a pair of wooden or bone knit- ting needles, No. 5. Should the worker be a very tight knitter, a coarser pair of needles should be used, as the knitting should be very soft and elastic, so that when a baby's foot is put into it it will assume the shape and appearance of an ordinary stocking, although when not in wear it is like a long bag. This size ■suits for an infant of about a year old. Cast on 3 stitches, istrow — knit plain. 2nd row — slip I, I plain, i purl; cast on 3 stitches. 3rd row — 2 purl, 2 plain alternately to the end of the row. 4th row — slip the ist stitch, putting in the needle as for a purl stitch, i purl, * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row ; cast on 3 stitches. 5th row — I plain, * 2 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row. 6th row — slip i, i plain, * 2 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row; cast on 3 more stitches. 7th row — knit 2 plain, 2 purl alternately to the end of the row. 8th row — slip i, putting in the needle as for purl stitch, i purl, * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row; cast on 3 stitches. 9th row — i purl, * 2 plain, 2 purl to the end of the row. loth row— slip I, i plain, then 2 purl, 2 plain alternately to the end of the row; cast on 3 stitches, nth row — 2 purl, 2 plain alternately. 12th row— slip i as in purl stitch, I purl, 2 plain, 2 purl alternately to the end of the row; cast on 3 stitches. 13th row — i plain, * 2 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row. 14th row — slip i, i plain, * 2 purl, 2 plain, repeat from* to the end of the row ; cast on 3 stitches. 15th row — knit 2 plain, 2 purl alternately. l6th row — slip i, putting in the needle as in purl stitch, i purl, * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row; cast on 3 stitches. 17th row — i purl, * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row. iSth row — slip i, i plain, * 2 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row; cast on 3 stitches. 19th row — knit 2, purl 2 alternately to the end of the row. 20th row — slip I, putting in the needle as in purl stitch, I purl, * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row; cast on 30 stitches. There should now be 60 stitches on the needles. From this to the end of the pattern the first stitch in each, row should be slipped, inserting the needle as in purl stitch or plain stitch, according as each row commences with purl or plain. 21st row — 2 purl, 2 plain alternately. 22nd row — 2 plain, 2 purl alternately. 23rd row — 2 plain, 2 purl alternately. 24th row — 2 purl, 2 plain alternately. Repeat these last 4 rows lo times more. 65th row — slip i, knit 2 together in purl stitch, I purl, * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the rew. 66th row — the same as the 65th row. 67th row — slip 30 I, knit 2 together, * 2 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row. 68th row — the same as the 67th row. 69th row — slip I, putting in the needle as in purl stitch, knit 2 together, i plain, * 2 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row. 70th row — the same as the 69th row. 71st row — slip i, putting in the needle as in purl stitch, knit 2 together in purl stitch, * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row. 72nd row — the same as the 71st row. Repeat the last 8 rows until there are only 32 stitches left on the needles. This brings you to the 93rd row — the same as the 2 1 St row. 94th row — the same as the 22nd row. 95th row — the same as the 23rd row. 96th row — the same as the 24th row. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 109th row — the same as the 21st row. iioth row — the same as the 22nd row. I nth row — plain knitting. 112th row — * 6 plain, knit 2 together, repeat from * 3 times more. 113th row — plain knitting. 114th row — * 5 plain, knit 2 together, repeat from * 3 times more. 115th row — plain knitting. ii6th row — * 4 plain, knit 2 together, repeat from * 3 times more. 117th row — plain knitting. ii8th row — * 3 plain, knit 2 together, repeat from *i3 times more. n9th row — plain knitting. 120th row — *2 plain, knit 2 together, repeat from * 3 times more. 121st row — plain knitting. 122nd row — * I plain, knit 2 together, repeat from * 3 times more. 123rd row — plain knitting; cast off. Do not break off the wool short, but leave sufficient to sew up the leg to the place where the narrowings begin. As the knitting has neither right nor ^vrong side, both legs are knitted exactly the same, but in the sewing up care should be taken to make them fellows. The two legs should then be joined together up the back, and a thread of wool run along the top to draw it in to fit the waistband. This band may be made either of flannel or calico, and should measure about 21 inches in length and ij inches in depth, the drawers may be fastened with a button and button-hole, or if preferred with as afety pin. Crochet. QUILT SQUARE. This square is a particularly handsome one, consisting as it does of a centre of ribbed crochet and a border of raised knots. It is not at all difficult to work, but requires to be done rather tightly and very evenly. It is capable of several variations, as we will endeavour to show hereafter. No. 10 Strutt's knitting cotton and a moderately coarse hook are most appropriate to the pattern, but it may be worked, if preferred, in a coarser size of cotton, and then fewer squares will be required for a quilt. Coloured cotton has a pretty effect, while if worked in wool, the pattern would make a charmingly warm sofa blanket. Make a chain of 12, turn and work 11 double crochet along it, using the last chain to make the ist double; at the end of the row turn and work 1 1 double back again, taking up the back thread only of the stitches of the last row, so as to make a rib, and using a chain stitch as a substitute for the ist double crochet. Continue working backwards and forwards in this way until a small square of 9 rows is done. loth row — work 3 chain THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, stitches, the 1st 2 of which are to do duty as a treble stitch, i chain, 1 treble, i chain, i treble all into the corner stitch of the square already made, * I chain, i treble into a space a little further along; then repeat from * until 5 holes are made. In the next comer again put 3 treble, divided each by a chain stitch, then 5 holes and so on all round the square, nth row — turn the work and work a row of double crochet all round, taking only the back part of the stitches, and putting 3 stitches in one at the corners to make it set well ; work every row backwards and forwards so as to make the ribs. When 7 rows are done, work a row like the loth, putting 14 holes in each side exclusive of the 2 corner ones ; then work the 7 rows of double crochet again, then another row of holes, putting 24 holes in each side exclusive of the 2 corner ones ; then turn the square and work a row of double crochet all round, at the end of this turn the work again so that the right side of the square is towards you, and begin the border thus : ist row of border — ' i treble in a double crochet of last row, i chain, miss i double crochet of last row, 5 treble in next double crochet, then take out the needle at end of 5th treble, put it into the loop at the top of the ist treble, then pull the loop left at the top of the 5th treble through it, thus drawing the 5 stitches together and making a sort of knot, i chain, miss i double crochet, repeat from * at the corners, work 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble all into the corner double crochet of last row. 2nd row — like the preceding one, a set of 5 treble being placed on the top of the treble which has been worked between each knot of the last row. At the corner put a set of 5 treble into the ist of the 2 treble of the last row, then 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble into the corner hole, and a set of 5 treble into the 4th of the 4 corner treble ; repeat all round. 3rd row — like the preceding, placing the sets of 5 treble in between the knots of the last row. The corners are managed as before. 4th and last row of border — * i treble, i chain, miss i stitch of the last row, i treble, i chain, i treble, i chain; repeat from *. In the corners put 3 treble with I chain between each as has been done before in similar rows. Now when i square has been worked, it will be seen how these squares may be made larger" or smaller by the increase or decrease in the number of ribbed rows They make extremely handsome mats for the toilet table or wash- stand ifthe ribbed centre is made sufficiently large, and if necessary a simple little border may be worked all round as a finish. Coloured cotton may be intermixed with good effect, while if considered as an improvement a little very narrow coloured ribbon may be run in and out the holes made by the alternations of chain and treble. The pattern need not necessarily be worked with knitting cotton, crochet cotton for some purposes may be considered as more appropriate. HOOD FOR INFANT. Very .Suitable for Presents to the Poor. This hood is worked in 2 colours, and i skein of each will., be required. Berlin fingering wool looks best, but common fingering will do if preferred. Use a fine bone crochet hook. Our model was in crimson and grey. For crown. Work a chain of 13 with crimson wool, turn, miss i, 12 doubles,* I chain, turn, 12 doubles. Throughout the hood, always catch up only the back half of the stitches of preceding row. Repeat from * till you have 18 rows of doubles. 19th row — same as preceding rows, but put 2 doubles into last stitch. Repeat 19th row 9 times more. For front, i chain, i double into the end of each row of crown. I double into each chain stitch along the top of crown, i double into the opposite end of each row of crown. You will now have worked round the two sides and top of crown. Work another double into the same stitch as last. You should now have 70 doubles in the row. Turn, i chain, doubles all along, putting 2 into last stitch, I chain, turn, and work backwards and forwards without any increasing till you have 25 rows in front. Turn, i chain, doubles all along, catching up both sides of the stitches ; work doubles along the ends of the rows of front and along the bottom of the crown. Finish off with a single stitch into first double of this row. With the grey wool, work doubles all round the hood, catching up only the back half of stitches. Put a doubles into i stitch at each corner. 2nd row— * 5 chain, single into ist stitch of chain, 2 doubles into next 2 stitches of last row. Repeat from * all round. Fasten off. Turn back the front of the hoed so that the right side of the grey edge and 2 rows of crimson crochet lie back. Sew this in its place with grey wool, hiding the stitches in the first row of the grey edge. For strings to tie under the chin. With grey wool, work 9 chain, turn, miss 3, 2 trebles into next 2 chain stitches, 2 chain, 2 trebles, * turn, 4 chain, 2 trebles into next 2 chain of last row, 2 chain, 2 trebles into next 2 chain. Repeat from * till you have 7 rows round the two sides and chain ; at beginning of this piece of crochet work the 2nd row of the edge which you have worked round the hood. When you come to the beginning of the 7th row of string, work 3 chain and 5 treble across it, putting the last treble into the last stitch of 7th row, * turn, 2 chain, 5 trebles. Repeat from * tUl you have 15 rows of trebles same as last. Fasten off. Make another string exactly the same. For strings to draw in the back of hood. With grey wool, work 4 chain, 2 trebles into 1st stitch, * turn, 3 chain, 2 trebles into chain of last row. Repeat from * till you have 22 rows. Work the edge same as round the ends of chain strings round the last 4 rows for the end of string. Work another string the same. Take the narrow end of narrow string, and insert it into the 18th row of crown near the centre, and run it out and in along this row and the front of hood bringing the end to the inside of the hood under whei'e the grey border is fastened back. -Sew it strongly, at the same time attaching one of the chin strings. Put on the other strings in the same way, and tie the narrow strings at the back of the hood into a neat double bow with two ends. The hood is now complete. WARM SHOULDER SHAWL. Suitable Gifts for the Poor. These shawls are most useful as a warm co\'ering for arms, chest, and shoulders of the poor and aged, and much appreciated as Christmas gifts. Materials required are 7 ozs. of violet Scotch fingering wool, 4 ozs. of grey, or any two colours preferred ; bone hook No. 8. Commence with violet by making a chain of 7 and unite. Turn with 6 chain, and work 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, I treble all into the ring of chain. 2nd row — turn with 5 chain, 3 treble into the first hole, then 2 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into ne.xt ; this forms the centre of shawl at back ; 2 chain, 3 treble into next, 2 chain, i treble into next, this 2 chain, i treble makes an extra hole at each end of ever>- row, to increase by. 3rd row — turn with 5 drain, 3 treble into the ist hole, 2 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into next ; this is to increase for the shoulder, thereby making it more shapely ; 2 chain, 3 treble into next 2 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into next, which is the centre of back; now finish row in the same way to correspond with the other side, being sure to increase at the shoulder. 4th row — work in same way, but without increasing at the shoulders, not forgetting that in every row you increase at the 31 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. beginning and end, also at the centre of back. 5th row — same. 6th row — work in same way, but increase for shoulders in same place as before, which must be exactly opposite the other double set of 2 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble. Of course that will be further in the row at each increasing, and yet in the same place on shoulder. You work exactly in the same way until there a'-e 23 rows ; this is for the centre of shawl. Now fasten on the grey wool and work 3 rows, then 3 in violet, 3 more rows in grey, 3 rows violet, 3 rows grey. You must not increase at the Shoulders after the 33rd row, as it will then be shaped enough, but work the remaining 5 rows plain, only increasing at back and end of each row. You now work all up the front with grey ; turn with 5 chain, 2 treble, I chain into every hole for 2 rows, then fasten on the violet wool, and work a scalloped edge all down the front, and round the bottom, by making * 6 long treble into i hole, I double crochet into next, and repeat all along the front, and increase at each corner by working 1 1 treble into the corner hole, and work 9 long treble into every other hole, and i double crochet between, all round the bottom, increasing the number to 1 1 at the centre of back, and then 9 long treble, l double, to end of the bottom row. This com- pletes the shawl ready for the cord and tassels to fasten at the neck, which are made as follows : — wind the wool double, that is, use a ball of violet and grey together, wind it over 3 fingers for 15 times, thereby making 30 strands in each tassel, cut and tie very firmly with double wool ; crochet a chain of 50, drawing the wool up through the tassels by putting the hook under the strands of wool, and winding it twice round the hook, which will then form a chain from the tassels. Run in and out 7 holes each side of centre of neck, and fasten the 2 ends together firmly by tying in 2 knots. WINTER JACKET JN TRICOTER, For Baby of 12 to 18 Months. Materials re- quired: J pound of white Peacock fingering" wool, Faudel & Phil- lips, I yard of white ribboii, i an inch wide, 3 small bone but- tons, white, and tricoter hook No. 9. You begin for the back piece by working 49 chain ; raise all these stitches in tricoter, and work back; do this for 31 rows. 32nd row — de- crease for shoulders 2 stitches at beginning and end of row, which is done by raising all the 49 stitches, and coming back draw through the 3 1st stitches by i chain or tricoter stitch, and same at the other end, viz., the 3last stitches left on your hook. 33rd row — *miss the 21st raise the others, taking the 3 last stitches into one stitch, and decrease, coming back same as last row ; repeat from * until there are 39 rows of tricoter in depth, and fasten off. For the right front — make a chain of 32, and raise all the stitches in same way as for the back, and work for 31 rows, then decrease 2 stitches at the end of each row in exactly the same way as back ; but only at the end of row, you decrease in this way for 8 rows, when there will be 39 rows in depth ; fasten off. Left front — make a chain of 32, and raise all the stitches; work back, do this for 31 rows, then de- crease 2 stitches at beginning of each row for 8 rows ; there must be 39 rows in depth, same as for back and right front ; break off. For the sleeves — make 27 chain, raise all the stitches and work for 10 rows, then increase i atr the beginning and end of each row alter- nately until there are 26 rows in depth. You increase by working I chain at the beginning, at the end by working a stitch between the 2 last stitches of previous row ; work both sleeves in the same way, crochet them up on the wropg side by a slipstitch ; join the shoulders the same, and under the arms, leaving a sufficient space for the sleeves to be crocheted in. The border — you begin at the left front and work in double crochet for about 3 inches (this is for the piece to sew the buttons on to), now draw the wool up loosely on to your hook, and make 5 treble stitches, but only draw the wool through once (instead of the usual twice) into 1 stitch, then i double into the 3rd ; now 5 treble into i again, and repeat all round the bottom, fironts and neck. 2nd row — work the 3 inches again 32 ■ -^ down left front, put your wool over the needle and draw * up a loop loosely from between the 5 treble of last row. This gives 3 loops, now draw up 3 from the 2nd group, then unite by I chain, i double crochet, draw up 6 loops loosely and unite by i chain, these 6 loops form a half star, which is completed in next row, I double again ; repeat from * all round the jacket. 3rd row — I double crochet over the double crochet stitch of last row, 7 treble into the little hole made by i chain in last row, i double over double of last row, 7 treble again, always putting it into the little hole made by i chain, this forms a very pretty scallop ; continue this all round the jacket, and work 5 of these patterns at bottom of each sleeve. You now run the ribbon at neck, and sew the -; buttons down the double crochet piece made for buttons on left front; it is fastened over by the patterns of opposite side. If a simpler edge is preferred, you can work i treble, i chain, I treble into I stitch, and repeat at equal distances all round the jacket and sleeves. 2nd row — same. 3rd row — i treble, 3 chain, i treble into same hole ; of course, you must increase at corners by a little more chain, or you can make just a row of scallops all round with 7 long treble, i double crochet, 7 long again ; but the ist border is the handsomest. SQUARE SHAWL. This pattern, which much resembles knitting, will be found very useful for clouds and scarfs as well as shawls, and looks well worked in either Berlin, Andalusian, or good fingering wool. The model one is done in single Bei-lin, cardinal, and takes 14 ozs., and should be worked with a bone crochet hook, No. 8. You commence by working 5 chain, and unite by a slipstitch, then work 3 chain, i double crochet into the ring of chain for 8 times ; the pattern is commenced in the next row, and done as follows : work i chain tightly, I loose, that is to say, about as long again as the tight one, I double crochet into ist loop of previous row ; repeat into 2nd loop twice for the ist corner, i into the 3rd loop, 2 into the 4th loop for the 2nd corner, i into the 5th loop, 2 into the 6th loop for the 3rd corner, 1 into the 7th loop, 2 into the 8th for the last corner. 3rd row — work in same way, but take the double crochet stitch through the front and back loop of last row made by the loose chain stitch which is quite prominent in every row ; increase at each corner by working a double set ; repeat in this way until there are 37 rows; this is for the centre. It is as well to mark the begin- ning of the row by a small piece of white wool. 38th row — draw up the wool and work 5 chain, wind wool over hook 3 times, and draw it through as in treble into the ist loop, which forms a pretty cable-looking stitch, and is illustrated in No. i of this paper as double long treble; work i chain, 2 cable into next loop, continue all round in same way, but increase at corners by working 4 cable stitches, 5 chain, 4 cable, taking all through the corner stitch. Now work 5 rows like centre, that is i tight chain, i loose, i double crochet between the sets of cable stitches in last row. 44th row — cable exactly the same as 38th row. 45th row — the same, only work into the hole made by i chain in previous row, between each set of cable stitches ; increase at the corners by working 2 cable between the 4 cable stitches of last row, 4 cable, 5 chain, 4 cable THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. into the 3rd of the 5 chain of last row, then i chain, 2 cable between the 4 cable of last row. 46th row — exactly the same. Now work 6 rows like centre, and then begin the border, which is done as follows: 1st row — 2 chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into 2nd loop from hook, 3 chain, i double into 2nd loop, that is you miss over i loop each time, or the border would be too full ; repeat 2 chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble all round, increasing at each corner by working into every loop instead of everj' other, and work 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the corner loop, and 3 chain, i double crochet into next, and row — work in same way over last row, increase 1 chain at corner, and 4 treble 3 chain, 4 treble instead of 3 treble on last row. 3rd row — 3 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain. 3 treble, 3 chain, i double crochet stitch over last row. 4th row — 4 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble, 4 chain, i double crochet over last row, and increase at the corner by working 6 chain, 4 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble, 6 chain, i double crochet over last row. 5th row — *4 chain, I treble, 5 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain to form a picot, I treble into the ist scallop ; work 7 of these picots into each scallop, 4 chain, i double crochetoverlastrow, when the shawl will be finished. If liked better, a fringe can be knotted into each scallop instead of working the edge of picots in last row. FANCHON. white Shetland a chain of 90 Worked in wool. Make stitches and work 2 treble stitches into evei-y 3rd chain stitch, turn with 3 chain, and make a group of 2 treble stitches into each space — that is, between each group of the 1st row; repeat this row till you have about 25 rows. You then begin one of the long ends. 26th row — work 4 groups of 2 treble, then turn as usual with 3 chain, and work these 4 groups backwards and for- wards for 30 rows ; work the /^ "^i^'^M^#?//' other long end at the opposite -^^^^ vx ..>\vm/MV//////i ^yoj-k. The border: this is pretty worked either in white, pale blue, or pink. It goes completely round the whole work. 1st row — 4 treble into one space, putting the wool over twice, 1 treble into the next space, and repeat all round, putting 6 treble at the corners instead of 4. 2nd row — 4 treble (with the wool over twice) into the previous 4 treble, i treble on the pre- vious treble, putting 8 at the corners instead of 4. Scallop edge, 8 treble (with the wool over 3 times), I chain, i treble, I chain, and repeat all round, putting 10 treble at the comers. Add tufts to the scallops at the head part in colour, if you have made the border coloured. To make them, wind the wool about 30 times round 2 fingers, slip it off, and tie tightly round the middle, leaving an end, which you thread with a wool needle and fasten it in; clip the edges smooth, and fasten the tuft on to the scallop. PRETTY EDGING. Make 10 chain, unite into I a round, 2 double crochet, 5 j chain, «'ork it, with i single, I into the 2nd double stitch, 2 double, 5 chain, slipstitch into the 2nd double stitch, I 2 double. This completes half the ring. * Make 10 chain, unite into a ring by slipstitching in the last double stitch of the last ring, then work 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slipstitch into last double, 2 double, 5 chain, slipstitch in the last double, 2 double to complete half the ring. Repeat from * for length required. When sufhcient has been worked, fill up the rings thus : — 2 double, * 5 chain, picot as before, 2 double, 5 chain, picot, 2 double to complete ring, 2 double into ne.xt ring and repeat from *. For the heading, fasten on in a picot 3 chain, i double into next picot, repeat. 2nd row, 3d ouble into every hole formed by 3 chain. LADY'S COLLAR. A pretty lacy collar is made from this model if No. 30 cotton be used. Every round is worked separately. Commence with 6 chain, join in a round. ist round — v/ork 2 chain, i treble 8 times in the ring. 2nd round — 7 chain and slipstitch into every hole of of last row. 3rd round — 8 double crochet in each of the loops of 7 chain. This completes i round. Unite the rounds together by joining the 4th double crochet worked in the 2 last loops of 7 chain with the 4th double crochet of the 2 holes of the last round. Make as many rounds as you wish your collar to be long round the neck. The model had 23. For the next row of rounds join the 4th double crochet stitch of the last group to the 4 double crochet of the groups of 8, missing I from where the other rounds are joined together. Ne:vt round — ^join the 4th double crochet to the 5th hole with the 4 double crochet of the second hole from which the last was joined, join the next 4 double crochet to the 4th double crochet of the next hole of the last joined, join the 4th double crochet to the 4th double crochet of the hole that missed in the first round, join the 4 double crochet of the 8th hole to the 4th double stitch of the next holeof second round. Next round— join the 4th double stitch of the 5th hole to the second from which the last was joined, joir the 6th double stitch to the 4th double stitch of the next hole of the last joined, join the 7th hole 4th double stitch to the 4th double stitch of the top round, join the 8th hole 4th double stitch to the 4th double stitch of the top round opposite to the one just joined, proceed thus joining your rounds together. The collar was 4 rows deep. For the neck— put your needle in 7th hole, make 6 chain, put it into the 4th double stitch of 8th hole, 6 chain into the next 4th double stitch, 3 chain in the next 6th double stitch, 6 chain in the next 4th double stitch, 6 chain in the next 4th double stitch, 3 chain in the next 6th double stitch ; repeat; turn, 3 chain, i treble in the loop of 6 chain, 3 chain, cotton twice over the needle in the loops of 3 chain, turn 2 double crochet in every hole, turn. For the lace for the neck: ist row — 7 chain into every 3rd double stitch. 2nd row — tura, 7 chain into every loop of 7 chain. 3rd row — turn, 7 chain into the loop of 7 chain, 6 chain in the same loop,* 7 chain in the next loop, 7 chain in the next, 6 chain in same loop, 7 in the next, 7 in the next loop, 6 chain in same ; repeat from * to the end. 4th row— turn, 3 chain, I treble in the loop of 6 chain, 2 chain, i treble 4 times in the same hole, 3 chain into next hole, 2 chain in the next, 3 chain, i treble in the loop of 6 chain,* 2 chain, I treble four times in the same loop, 3 chain in the next, 2 chain in next hole, 3 chain I treble in the loop of 6 chain ; repeat from * to the end. 5th row— turn, 5 chain in first treble, 5 chain in next S chain, S chain in the next, 5 chain in the next, 3 chain, slipstitch into the loop of 2 chain, 3 chain into first treble, 5 chain in next treble, 5 in the next treble, 5 in the next treble, 5 in the next treble, 3 chain into loop of 2 chain, 3 chain into first treble *, 5 chain in next treble, 5 chain in next treble, 5 chain in next treble, S chain in the next treble, 3 chain into the loop of 2 chain, 3 chain into first treble ; repeat from* to the end. 6th row — turn, * 6 double crochet in all the loops of 5 chain, and 2 double crochet in e\'ery loop of 3 chain ; repeat from * to the end. 7th row — turn, 6 chain into the last double stitch of first 3 holes, 6 chain into the second double crochet of the first loop of 3 chain, 6 chain into the last double crochet of the first 3 holes, then 6 chain into the second double crochet of the first loop of 3 chain ; repeat from * to the end. 8th row — turn, * 5 double crochet in first hole, 6 double crochet in two next, 5 double in the next ; repeat from *. The lace will form a scallop pattern. For the sides and round the collar — put your needle into the double stitch of the row that you worked before you commenced the lace for the neck, 6 chain into the 4th double of the round, 6 chain into the fourth double stitch of the next hole of the round, 6 chain into 4th double crochet of the next hole of the round, 3 chain into the fourth double crochet of the next round, 6 chain into fourth double crochet of the next hole, 6 chain into fourth double crochet of next hole, 3 chain 33 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. into the fourth double crochet of the next round, 6 chain into the fourth double crochet of the next hole, 6 chain into the fourth double crochet of the next hole, 3 chain into the fourth double crochet of the next round, 6 chain into the fourth double crochet of the next hole, 6 chain in the fourth double crochet of the next hole, 6 chain in the fourth double crochet of the next hole, 6 chain in the fourth double crochet of the next hole, 5 chain in the double stitch which joins the rounds together, 5 chain into the fourth double crochet of the next hole, 6 chain into the fourth double crochet of the next hole, 5 chain into the double crochet which joined the rounds together. Continue in this way, working the corner the same as you did the first one, and the side same as first. Next, down, round the sides and round the collar, 6 double crochet in the first hole, 2 double crochet in the next hole, 5 chain, slip it into last double stitch, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it into the last double stitch, 2 double crochet in the next hole, work 2 double crochet, 5 chain, shp it into the last double stitch, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it into the last double stitch, 2 double crochet in the next hole, in the next hole work 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it into the last double crochet, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip into the last double crochet, 2 double crochet in the next hole, work 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it into the last double crochet, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it into the last double crochet, 2 double crochet in the next hole, work 2 double crochet ; repeat in this way until you get to the second hole of the last round on this side, when you work 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it into the last double stitch, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it into the last double stitch, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it into the last double stitch, 2 double crochet ; work in this way until you turn the other corner, only making in the 5 chain holes 3 double crochet, 5 chain, slip it through the last double stitch, 3 double crochet. For the lace— begin this at the bottom of last round, * do 6 chain into all the 5 chain holes that you slipped through the double crochet stitches, except where you have the one 5 chain slipped through, only make 2 chain here and put it into the next 5 chain hole, continue all along in this way, turn, and work back 6 chain, put it into the second hole, S chain in the same hole, 6 chain in the next hole, 6 chain in the next hole, 5 chain in the same hole, 6 chain in the next hole, repeat from * to the end; turn, 3 chain, i treble in the 5 chain hole, 2 chain, I treble 4 times in the same hole, 3 chain in the next hole, 2 chain in the next hole, * 3 chain, I treble in the next 5 chain hole, 2 chain, 1 treble 4 times in the same hole, 3 chain in the next hole, 2 chain in the next hole; repeat from*; turn, 5 chain into the ist treble, 5 chain in the next treble, 5 chain in the next treble, 5 chain in the next treble, 5 chain in the next treble, 3 chain into the next loops of 2 chain, 3 chain in the next treble, 5 chain in the next treble, continue in this way putting the 5 chain into all the trebles, but the first of the scallop when the 3 chain is worked; next row — turn, work 6 double crochet into all the 5 chain holes, 2 double crochet into all the 3 chain holes ; turn, work 6 chain into the last double stitch of 5 chain hole, 6 chain in the last double stitch of next hole, put 6 chain in the last double stitches of the 5 chain holes except the last of the scallop, when you put 5 chain into the second double crochet of the 3 chain holes ; turn, 6 double crochet in the 6 chain holes and 5 double crochet in the 5 chain holes. This completes the collar. CREEVE INSERTION. 21 chain, turn your work, I and to form the edge miss 2 chain stitches and work 2 treble into next stitch, 3 chain, 2 treble into same chain stitch into which you [worked the last treble stitches, 3 chain, miss 2 stitches, 1 treble into next I stitch, 3 chain, miss 3 I stitches, I treble into next I stitch, 6 chain, miss 3 stitches, I treble into next stitch, 3 chain, miss 3 stitches, I treble into next 1 stitch, 3 chain, miss 2 stitches, and for edge work 2 trebles into next stitch, 3 chain, 2 trebles into same stitch into wh ich you worked ttic ieisL ^ Licuico. .iiiu luvv — uuiii, n i-iiain, * * 2 trebles into next 3 chain of last row, 3 chain, 2 trebles into same 3 chain into which you worked the last 2 trebles, i treble into next 3 chain, 3 chain, I treble into next 3 chain. Form the arch by working (3 trebles, 2 chain, 3 trebles, 2 chain, 3 trebles, 2 chain, 3 trebles) into the 6 chain of last row. These 1 2 trebles should be quite close together and should be very firmly worked, I treble into next 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble into next 3 chain. For edge — 2 trebles into next 3 chain, 3 chain, 2 trebles into same 3 chain into which you worked the last trebles. 3rd row— turn and work edge by making 4 chain, 2 treble into next 3 chain, 3 chain, 2 trebles into the same 3 chain as last trebles, i treble into next 3 chain, 6 chain, i treble into ist 2 chain in arch, 3 chain, i treble into next 2 chain, 3 chain, I treble into next 2 chain. For edge — 2 trebles into next chain, 3 chain, 2 trebles into the same 3 chain as last trebles. 4th row — turn, 4 chain, 2 trebles into next 3 chain, 3 chain, 2 trebles into same 3 chain as last trebles, 4 double stitches into next 6 chain, 5 double stitches into next 3 chain, 5 double stitches into next 3 c hain, 4 doubles into next 6 chain, 2 trebles into next 3 chain, 3 chain, 2 trebles into same 3 chain as last trebles. 5th row — turn, 4 chain, and for edge —2 trebles into 3 chain, 3 chain, 2 trebles into same 3 chain, 3 chain, i treble into centre of next 4 double stitches, 3 chain, i treble into centre of next 5 double stitches, 6 chain, i treble into centre of next 5 double stitches, 3 chain, i treble into centre of next 4 double stitches, 3 chain. For edge — 2 trebles into next 3 chain, 3 chain, 2 trebles into same 3 chain as last trebles, 4 chain, turn ; repeat from * *. This insertion looks well in No. 20 crochet cotton, and should be worked with a fine steel needle. If ecru cotton is preferred use No. 4* loom thread, which can be procured from A. E. K., Box 10, P.O., Ballymena, at 6d. per skein post free. The skeins are very large. EDGING. I St row — 5 chain, 3 treble into the 2nd of the 5 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble into the ist of the 5 chain, 6 chain, turn * 3 treble into the last 3 chain ; 3 chain, 3 treble into the same 3 chain, 6 chain, i double into the point of the last 3 trebles on the same side, i chain, turn, into this 6 chain work 2 double, 5 chain, 5 double, then i chain, 3 treble into the last 3 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble, into the same 3 chain, 6 chain, turn, 3 treble into the last 3 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble into the same 3 chain, 6 chain, i double into the last point on this side, i chain, turn, 4 double, 9 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the centre stitch of the last arch (made by working double stitches o^'er 6 chain) draw through the loop and make a chain stitch to steady it, then work the following into the 9 chain, 3 double, 5 chain, 3 double, 5 chain, 3 double, 5 chain, 3 double, Into the 6 chain, into which you have already worked 4 double, work 2 double, 5 chain, 2 double. Then i chain, 3 treble into the last 3 chain between the groups of trebles, 3 chain, 3 treble into the same 3 chain, 6 chain, turn, repeat from * for the required length. 2nd row — along the lower side, work I double into each of the loops formed by 5 chain, working 6 chain between each double. 3rd row — work i treble into the ist stitch of the last row, * i chain, miss I, I treble, repeat from * to the end of the row. EGG COSY. This is very simply carried out in tricot stitch, with Berlin wool of any bright colour — yellow looks pretty, trimmed with white or black. Make a chain of 18, and work 4 rows. Then decrease i each end every other row till you have 10 stitches left. Then take 2 together all the way, and pull the wool through the 4 left. Work the other side the same and crochet them together. With the other coloured wool, make a row of double crochet all round the edge and down the sides. Work a star, or any pretty design on each side with the 2nd colour, and add a tuft of the same at the top. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. How to Dress Dolls for Bazaars, &c. DOLL'S WALKING COSTUME. No. I, For Doll 14 inches long. You must of course first make the underlinen for dolly, patterns of which are fully described, and given in No. 68 of The Children's Dressmaker, but as some little girls may like to crochet their doll a petticoat, we will give directions for that first, for which will be required 4 an ounce of white Shetland wool and bone hook, No. 8. Commence at the bottom by working about 70 chain, unite them and work 3 treble, i chain into the 3rd stitch, work all round in same way, so that you have 21 or 22 holes round, join 1 each row, do 4 rows like this. ' 5th row — I chain, 2 treble into every hole, work 7 rows like (this. 13th row — 4 chain, i treble into the isthole, i chain, I treble into every hole; do not join this row, as it begins the placket hole. 14th row — turn with 4 chain, i treble, i chain, I treble into every hole. 15th row — same. i6th row — same. 1 7throw--forbodice, 2 treble into every hole, no chain between. 1 8th row — I treble between every treble of last row, work 5 rows like this. 23rd row — work 10 treble in same way, and then do 10 chain for armhole, pass over 2 stitches and work 17 treble for front, 10 chain for second armhole, pass over 2 stitches, and finish row in same way; now work 3 rows of double crochet along the top of neck, then i row of 3 chain, i double crochet into every 2nd stitch, make a chain of wool long enough to run in and out of neck to tie, also of double wool for the waist ; then make a scallop edge at bottom, by working 9 treble into i hole, 1 double crochet into the next ; repeat all round. Doll's Frock. For the costume you will require 3 ounces of pale blue single Berlin wool, 2 or 3 yards of blue ribbon to match, and 2 bone hooks, No. 8, and a small piece of white Berlin, and i yard of white ribbon. Begin at the bottom of frock and make 60 chain, which unite by a slipstitch, work i treble into every stitch, join each row. 2nd row — i treble into every stitch, taking the back part of stitch, so as to form ribs. 3rd row — same. 4th row — same. 5th row — work 12 treble and take the 13th and 14th stitches together; repeat to end of row. 6th row — 1 treble into every stitch. 7th row — same. 8th row — decrease by taking the 13th and 14th stitches together, gth row — I treble into every stitch. loth row — same, nth row — decrease by taking the 13th and 14th stitches together. 12th row — I treble into every stitch; do not join this row, as it begins the placket hole. 13th row — same. 14th row — decrease by taking the nth and 12th stitches together. 15th row — decrease in same way. 1 6th row — I treble into every stitch, work 2 more rows just the same for the bodice. 19th row — 11 treble, 8 chain for armhole, pass over 2 stitches and work treble along for front until there are 13 stitches left unworked, 8 chain for 2nd armhole, pass over 2 stitches, and work 1 1 treble. 20th row — 6 treble, take 2 stitches together, t treble into every stitch over shoulder, take 2 together again twice along the front before going over the other shoulder ; do the other back in same way. 21st row — i treble, take 2 stitches together, I treble, 3 chain, catch the last to the ist chain stitch to form a small picot, i treble; repeat to end of row. For sleeves — work 16 treble round the armholes, and join 3 more rows in same way, taking the 2 last stitches together to shape it, and edge the sleeves with the picots same way as for neck. For the flounces round the skirt, fasten on wool at the bottom and use the coarsest hook, No. 6. Work 3 treble, 5 chain, the last caught back into the igt chain stitch to form a picot, 2 treble ; repeat this between every 3rd and 4th stitch all round. The second flounce is worked in same way into the 4th row in the 4th chain stitch all round ; 3rd flounce in same way, 4 rows higher up ; leave an end of wool to fasten down the flounces, by lightly tacking them down on the right side ; make a chain of wool for running in the neck and waist, sew 2 white shirt buttons down the back, tack a piece of lace in neck and sleeves and round the bottom, and tie a sash of blue ribbon round the v/aist. Dolman. Make 39 chain, and into the 4th stitch from hook work i treble. and 1 treble into every stitch, making 36 treble. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, take the back part of stitch to match frock, and work 2 treble into every other stitch. 3rd row — turn with 3 chain, i treble into every stitch. 4th row — turn with 3 chain and work in same way as 2nd row, that is, i treble into the ist stitch, 2 treble into the 2nd stitch all along. 5th row — i treble into every stitch. 6th row — same. 7th row — l treble into every stitch, but round the back increase by working 2 stitches into I stitch for several times, this to give fulness to the back. For the front ends — work the 1st 8 stitches backwards and forwards in same way for 7 rows, do the other front at end of row exactly the same. Now work a border round fronts and bottom in same way as for flounces on frock, viz.: — 2 treble, 5 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain stitch, 2 treble at equal distances, i double crochet, 3 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain to form a smallpicot, catch 5 patterns together by a piece of wool for sleeves — from the front ends to back — draw in the back to fit by pleats, and sew a piece of tape under- neath the back to tie it down with ; now sew a bow of ribbon at the back and neck and waist, sew 2 small shirt buttons just where the bows will hide them when fastened, and pleat som.e lace round the neck. Bonnet. With a steel hook. No. I J, or very fine bone one, work 3 chain and unite by a slipstitch, work double crochet into the chain, and go round and round, increasing when necessary to keep it flat by working 2 double crochet stitches into i ; the crown must measure 3 inches across ; now work 9 rows without increasing, i oth row — increase by working 2 stitches into every 2nd stitch for the brim, work 3 rows quite plain all round, and then for the little scallop round edge work 3 double crochet, and into the 4lh stitch work i double crochet, 2 treble, I double crochet, then 3 more double crochet before commencing 2nd scallop ; repeat in this way all round the bonnet, which finishes it ready for trimming, turn back the brim and sew white ribbon strings on the outside at each ear to fasten the brim down to form a curl in front. Make a feather in looped crochet with the piece of white wool, which is done as follows: work about 8 chain, wind the wool over 2 fingers for 3 times and crochet it off in double crochet, i double into chain, work another loop in same way; turn with 4 chain, and work 2 loops, and continue in this way until the feather is long enough to go across the front of bonnet, fasten it on with a knot of ribbon, when this stylish little bonnet will be completed. Doll's Scarf. Some pink and white Shetland wool and a bone hook, No. 8, will be required; of course, any colours can be used you like. Commence with white, and work 18 chain; into the 6lh stitch from hook you miist work 2 treble, missing one of the foundation chain, continue in this way, 1 chain, 2 treble until you have 7 holes along, work 2 rows like this, turn- ing with 4 chain, 2 rows in pink, then work 23 rows in white before commenc- ing the other end, now 2 rows in pink, 2 rows in white. Wind some wool over 2 fingers or a piece of card for the fringe, put 5 strands of pink in ist hole, 5 strands of white in next, repeat until the end is fringed, and do the other to match, cut both ends very even. 35 ■ tHE FANCY WORK-BASKET, work 3 treble, DOLL'S WALKING COSTUME. No. IL For Doll 14 inches long. For this very pretty costume you will require 3 ozs. of white Berlin fingering wool, I oz. pink, bone hoek, No. 8. 6 small shirt buttons. Com- mence with white wool, and work 60 chain, unite by a slip stitch, and work I treble into every stitch of the foundation chain. 2nd row— turn with 4 chain, and work i treble into every stitch, taking the back part of stitch, so as to form ribs. 3rd row — work in same way. 4th row — the same. 5th row — 10 treble, take the I ith and 1 2thstitchestogether to decrease, repeat in same way all round. 6th row — i , treble into every stitch. 7th row — same, do not join this row, as it commences the placket hole. 8th row — decrease in every 8th stitch, by taking the 9th and loth stitches together. 9th row — I treble into every stitch, loth row — decrease by taking the 9th and loth stitches together. loth row — with pink for waist, work i treble into every stitch. Now work 3 rows in white for bodice, just the same. In pink, work 11 treble, 8 chain for armhole, miss 2 stitches and work treble until there are 13 stitches left unworked, 8 chain for 2nd armhole, pass over 2 stitches, and work II more treble ; turn with 3 chain, and take 2 stitches together, repeat all along with the exception of shoulders, into which work i treble into every stitch. For edge, 3 chain, i double crochet into every stitch all along neck. For kilt at the bottom, work 17 chain, turn and work 16 double crochet into it, work another row, taking up the back part of stitch to form ribs, fasten on the pink and work 2 rows in same way, then the same of white, keep both balls of wool on the work, and slip up when wanted. Work in this way until you have 20 ribs of pink and 20 of white, join it up, hold the kilt to bottom edge of frock, and crochet it on the right side in double crochet with pink wool, this crocheting on forms an edge to the top of kilt. For sleeves, make 1 1 chain, turn and work 10 double crochet in same way as for kilt, 2 rows white, 2 rows pink, 3 ribs of each colour, that is 6 ribs altogether, join up, and work 3 rows of double crochet tightly round the bottom to draw it in, and form a cuff, make the other sleeve to match, and then sew them in armholes. Make a chain of wool, and run in neck and waist, sew 2 buttons down the back, and tack ace in neck and sleeves. Jacket. Commence with white wool, and work 53 chain. Into the 4th stitch from hook, work I treble and continue working i treble into every stitch of the foundation chain. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, and work I treble into every stitch, taking the back part of stitch to form ribs, and match frock. 3rd row — same. 4th row — 10 treble, take the nth and 12th stitches together, repeat to end of row. 4th row — I treble into every stitch. 5th row — 8 treble, take the 9th and and loth stitches together ; repeat to end of row. 6th row — i treble into every stitch. 7th row — 8 treble, 8 chain for armholes, pass over 3 stitches, work treble along until there are 12 stitches left unworked, 8 chain for second armhole, pass over 3 stitches, rest plain. 8th row — i treble into every stitch, gth row — 4 treble, take the 5th and 6th stitches together, 4 treble again, repeat to end of row. loth row — in pink the same. For the sleeves, work 20 treble round the armhole, and work in same way, as for jacket, for 5 rows, take the last 2 stitches together in each row to shape and decrease it ; make another to match, sew them in the armholes. Now make a kilt of 5 stitches in double crochet of pink and white, to match skirt, long enough to go up the fronts, and round bottom of jacket, 36 crochet it on to the jacket right side, in same way as skirt, then make a narrower kilt of 4 stitches, and crochet on to edge of sleeves, also for neck to form a collar, then sew on 4 buttons down the left front, v/hen the jacket will be complete. TuRN-UP Hat. With white wool and steel hook. No. i J, make a chain of 3 and unite by a slipstitch, work 2 double crochet stitches into every chain ; work round and round in double crochet, increasing when necessary to keep it quite flat until your round measures 24 inches across, then work 6 rows, quite plain, no increasing. For brim, 2 double crochet into every 3rd stitch, i into the others, fasten on pink wool, and work 6 rows plain without any increasing to roll up all round the edge of brim. Make a feather with pink wool in looped crochet, same way as for Bonnet in No. i Walking Costume, for which directions are there given; into the end of feather work a rosette by making a little hole of 3 chain, I double ; then work 6 chain, i double, crochet into the hole for about 18 times, leaving an end of wool to sew it on to the hat. COSTUME FOR A DOLL. 20 INCHES IN LENGTH. Materials required;— 4 ozs.of ivhite wool, I oz. of pink, and i bone hook. This costume consists of a petticoat, robe, cape, hat, and muff. Commence with the petticoat, which should be crocheted in white fingering. Make a chain ofSo and unite, ist row — I treble into 5 th from needle, i treble into each of the next 2 stitches, * 3 treble into next, 4 consecutive treble, miss 2, 4 consecutive treble, repeat from * all round, join. 2nd round — commence with 3 chain, 3 consecutive treble, * 3 treble into next stitch, 4 consecutive treble (pick up back loops only), miss 2, 4 consecutive treble and repeat from * ; join. 3rd to 9th rounds like the 2nd. loth row — now work back- wards and forwards for placket hole, miss a stitch at the beginning and end of the row. nth row — like the loth. 12th row — miss i * 8 consecutive tre- ble, miss 2 and repeat from *, 7 con- secutive treble, miss 2, and repeat from *, miss i. 14th row — 5 consecu- tive treble, miss 2, all along, isth row — treble into every stitch. This is first row of bodice. 16th to i8th rows like the 15th. 19th row — work I3 stitches, then turn and work another row above them, fasten off. This is for right back. Now fasten on at other end of i8th row and work 12 stitches for left back, do another row above this and fasten off. Miss a stitch in the i8th row at the begin- ning and end of centre, work back- wards and forwards for 2 rows and fasten off. Crochet the following edge round bottom of petticoat. 7 treble into every 3 chain that you missed in first row, i double in hole where you worked the 3 treble. 2nd row — 3 chain, i treble in the first of the 3, i double into middle of scallop, repeat into last stitch of scallop and first stitch of next, crochet this edge all round bodice from waist, across the armholes, crochet a chain and run in last row of skirt and round neck ; crochet a row of double round the placket hole, and sew a button on left side. This is a very good pattern petticoat for a child, and quickly made ; if commenced with a chain the width of skirt, the directions will suit any size. The dress is worked in ribbed tricoter. This is done as follows — work a row of tricoter in the ordinary way ; in the next row put your needle to the back of work and pick up the hack of straight loop all along ; work off in the usual way. Repeat this row every alternate row. Make a chain of 87, raise 86 loops, work off as usual, then do a row of ribbed, and repeat these 2 rows 9 times. In the next row, which is plain pick up 18 loops, take 3 together, 37 plain loops, take 3 together, plain to end. Next plain row pick up 2 loops together exactly over where you last decreased. Next plain row the same. Next plain, same, and decrease in middle of back. Decrease in these 3 places in the plain rows 5 times more, which THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. finishes skirt portion. Repeat the plain and ribbed rows without decreasing 5 times more ; you then divide for the armholes ; pick up 12 loops for right front,work on these for 4 rows each plain and ribbed, leave 3 stitches unworkedfor under arm and work across 25 for centre of back, 8 rows as before ; leave 3 stitches unworked for left armhole and work across remaining stitches for 8 rows for left front. Make 10 chain at each shoulder and work a plain and ribbed row right round neck, pick up the last row with double crochet. For border of dress, begin the left side of skirt and work up right front. Double into a stitch. Put your hook in next stitch and draw wool through, you have 2 loops on needle, make 3 chain on the last loop, draw wool through both loops and repeat from beginning. 2nd row — double over every double, tuft over a tuft, working into the back of them ; repeat the 2nd row 3 times more. For sleeves make a chain the width of armhole and work 4 rows of plain and ribbed tricot, sew them up and work 4 rows of the border ; crochet the following edge with pink wool down right front, bottom, neck and sleeves ; double into a stitch, 3 chain, i treble into the first of the 3 chain, miss 3 stitches of the dress, I double into the next. Now sew the sleeves in, putting the join under the arm. Make 2 pink balls and sew on to skirt front, sew the skirt up about 3 or 3 inches. Add buttons at equal distances, and the dress is complete. The cape is worked in point muscovite like the border of dress. Make a chain of 14 inches in length, fold into 3 and mark the places for shoulders, crochet 3 plain rows and decrease in every row at the shoulders till you have done II rows altogether, crochet an edge with pink wool like the edge round dress, crochet a chain for neck in pink and finish with 3 balls. The Tam O' Shanter is worked in the same stitch. Make 3 chain and unite, i st round, 5 points into the chain ; go on increasing to keep the work flat till you have done 7 rows. Now do 3 rows of plain double crochet, decreasing at every 5th stitch, do i more in pink, and fasten off". Make 2 pink balls, connect them by a chain, and sew in the front, crochet a piece of chain and pin on the doll's hair. This is to pin the hat to. The muff is done in the same stitch. Make a chain of 4J inches, work 10 rows of points, join the 2 ends to- gether, then work a row of double round each side, gathering it in a little, work pink edging as before. Make a small chain and finish with 2 balls, sew over join, looping the chain a little. Make a piece of double chain 14 inches leng, and sew on muff to hang round neck. The muff, hat, and cape can be lined with pink satin or sateen if wished. BATHING COSTUME. For Doll of id inches. You will require i oz. of best Scotch naNT^ blue fingering wool, and a small piece of white, bone hook, No. 8. For drawers, you begin at the leg and work 16 chain, unite and work i treble into every chain stitch, join, work in this way for 6 rows. 7th row — I treble into ist stitch, 2 into the 2nd stitch ; repeat to end of row, join, break off wool, and work another leg in same way, slipstitch the 2 legs together, work from the join all the way back in same way, viz., i treble into 2nd row — same, ' ^ every stitch, break off. '"^S hilt take 1 stitches tos'i middle of front. 3rd row — i double crochet into every 2nd stitch for the band. 4th row — double crochet, decreasing here and there; work 2 more rows in just the same way, decreasing to size of waist, run in a piece of wool to tie it on round waist. Tunic. Work 50 chain, ist row — i treble into 4th stitch from hook, i treble into every stitch of the foundation chain ; break off at each row so as to match trousers. 2nd row — fasten on wool, work 3 chain and treble in same way. 3rd row — same. 4th row — same. 5th row — 8 plain, take the 9th and loth stitches together; repeat to end of row. 6th row — sa.'-ne. 7th row — decrease by taking every 7th and 8th stitches together to end of row. 8th row — same. 9th row — 8 plain, 7 chain for arm- hole, pass over 2 stitches and work in treble until there are 10 stitches left unworked, 7 chain for second armhole, pass over 2 stitches, rest plain. loth row — i treble into every stitch, nth row — 3 treble, take the 4th and 5th stitches together to end of row. For sleeves, work 16 treble round armhole, work 4 rows like it, taking the last 2 stitches together at end of each row to shape it, make another in same way, and then work i row in white of double crochet at bottom of sleeves, neck, and all round the tunic, now i row of 3 chain, i double crochet into every other stitch round the neck, make a cord and tassels of the blue v/ool to run in the neck, and a thick girdle of 2 or 3 strands of wool, and tassels in same way to tie round the waist. Cap. Work 3 chain and unite by a slipstitch, work 2 double crochet into every stitch until iiis quite large enough for crown, which you can tell by trying it on dolly, work the brim, taking the underneath part of stitch, which will make it look like a cord round the crown, now work 4 rows in same way, that is double crochet, but take your hook between the stitches of last row, which gives the appearance of another stitch, now work i row of white. This finishes the little cap. SHORTENING COSTUME FOR BABY DOLL. II INCHES LONG. Materials required, i\ ounces of white Berlin, 3 yards of white rib- bon about id. the yard, some nar- row lace and two small shirt buttons; bone hook No. 8. Dress. Commence at the bottom by working 51 chain, raise all these stitches in plain tricoter, work back and do 14 rows just the same. 15th row — decrease by tak- ing the nth and 12th stitches to- gether all along. i6th row — plain. 17th row — decrease in same way as i5throw. iSthrow — decrease same, only take the gth and loth stitches together. 19th row — decrease in same way. Now work 4 rows plain for the bodice. Next row — 9 treble into the 9 chain stitches of last row, 8 chain for armhole, pass over 2 stitches and work treble along until there are 1 1 stitches left unworked, 8 chain, pass over 3 stitches, 9 treble to end, break off and begin the other end. For edge, work* 1 double crochet, 3 chain, the last caught back to the first chain to form a picot, take 3 stitches together and repeat from * all round neck. For sleeves — work 13 chain, raise the 13 stitches in tricoter and work 2 rows, 3 more rows, but increase i stitch at the beginning of each row by i chain, and i stitch at end by work- ing it betweea the last 2 stitches ; crochet up the sleeve and make another to match, and work a picot edge round them like neck; sew or crochet them into the armholes, crochet up skirt leaving a placket hole. For kilt at bottom work 7 chain, turn and work 6 double crochet, turn and work 6 double crochet into the back part of stitch to form ribs, work in this way for 34 ribs or 68 rows, join, and then hold one side of the kilt to bottom edge of frock and cro- chet it on by double crochet stitches the right side; this crocheting on forms a nice edge to the top of kilt. Make a second kilt narrower work 5 double crochet stitches backwards and fonvards for 33 ribs or 64 rows, and crochet to frock in same way on the 6th row of tricoter. Now make a chain of wool to nm in and out of neck and waist, sew 2 small shirt buttons down the back, tie a sash of white ribbon round the waist, make 2 ribbon bows, and sew on each shoulder, tack lace in neck, sleeves, and round the bottom of frock. Tippet. Work 30 chain loosely, ist row — Put the wool over your needle and insert in stitch ; draw through ; repeat twice more in same stitch, unite these by i chain, take up 3 more loops in same way in next stitch, work 17 of these tufis along the foundation chain. 2nd row— turn with 4 chain and w'ork i tuft between each tuft of previous row. 3rd row — turn with 4 chain, and work 3 tufts between the ist and 2nd tufts of last row, i tuft between the next, 3 tufts between the next, repeat to end of row. 4th row— I tuft between each tuft of previous row. 5th row— I tuft between the ist tuft, 3 tufts between the ne.\t, i tuft between the next, continue to end of row in same way. 6th row — same as 4th row. Now work an edge all round of i treble, 3 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain stitch to form a picot, work one of these patterns between each tuft all round, make a cord and tassels of the wool, to run in the neck to fasten it on with. 37 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Tam O'Shanter HoOd. ■Work 8_ chain and unite by a slipstitch, draw [up the wool as if for treble in 3 loops loosely on to your hook, in same manner as directions given for the tippet, work 9 of these tufts into the ring of chain, draw up the wool and then work 2 tufts in same way between each tuft of previous row. 3rd row— i tuft between each tuft of previous row. 4th row— i tuft between each tuft. 5th row— i double crochet between each tuft of last row. Work 2 more rows in double crochet going between the stitches of previous row, these plain rows are for the band, pleat a piece of soft Valenciennes lace, and tack from ear to ear to represent cap front, sew on ribbon strings the outside of the hood and make a bow or rosette of ribbon to tack on the front if for a girl, side for a boy. Tam O'Shanter Cap. Is made just the same, only omit the ribbon and lace, and make a tuft of wool by winding it round the fingers for 20 times, cut evenly, tie, and then sew on the top. BABY DOLL'S COSTUME. Materials required for a doll about 15 inches in length: — Jib. of white single Berlin wool and 3 yards of narrow white sarcenet ribbon, and a long tricot hook. For the petticoat — make a chain of 50, and work in fancy tricot stitch (picking up the perpendi- cular stitch at the back instead of the front). The whole of the clothes are made in this stitch. Work 20 rows. Next row — take 2 together all the way. Work 2 rows without decreasing, and i row of double crochet to finish. Work a scallop round the bottom of the petticoat, first joining it up nearly to the band, 3 treble, 1 chain, 3 treble, all into the same hole, miss 2, i double crochet, miss 2, and repeat all round. Work 2 more rows the same, putting the 6 treble into the previous 1 chain, and the double crochet on the previous one. Run a cord and tassels through the band. For the robe— make 70 chain and work 30 rows. Next row — take 2 together, work 2 rows without decreasing. Next row — increase i in every 4th stitch, when you should have 44 stitches. Work 3 rows without increasing, then leave the first 11 stitches. Work 10 rows on the next 6 stitches. Leave the next 10 stitches, and work 10 rows on the next 6, leaving the last 11 un- touched. Join these little flaps of 6 to the backs. Work a row of scallop round the neck the same as the petticoat. For the sleeves — make 12 chain, and work 6 rows ; join it up and work a scallop of 3 treble, i double round the wrist. Sew the sleeves into the arm- holes. Join up the skirt and work 4 rows of scallops the same as the petticoat and i row of 8 treble, i double. Run ribbon to tie at the neck and waist. Work 2 rows of scallop to trim the front of the robe, beginning at the waist and widening out towards the end of the skirt. Put 3 ribbons down the front between the scallop rows. For the hood — make 6 chain, and increase i at each end every row till you have 24 stitches. Work 2 rows plain. For the curtain — pick up 34 stitches all round neck. Increase at the middle and each end, every row, for 15 rows. Work 2 rows of scallops all round hood and curtain. Run in 2 ribbons round the neck tied at the back, and 2 more to tie at the top of the head. For the shoes — make 10 chain, work 6 rows and i row of scallops. Join it up like a bag for the foot to go in at the scallops. Mrs. LEACH'S PRACTICAL FAMILY DRESSMAKER"" Is published on the 26th day of every month, price Twopence, or Post Free for Six Months for Fifteen Stamps. THE CHILDREN'S DRESSMAKER Cont-aining Mantles, Costumes, and Underclothing for Young Ladies and Children, is published on the loth day of every month, price One Penny, or Post Free for Six Months for Nine Stamps. Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, London. The Quarterly Edition of the Two Books, containing over 200 Illustrations, may be had of any Home or Colonial pookfaeller, price gd. 38 DOLL'S SHAWL AND HIGH CROWNED HAT. For the shawl use blue and white Shetland, about J an ounce, and a hone hook No. 8. Commence by working 5 chain and unite by a slip- stitch, into this ring of chain work 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble for 8 times, join. 2nd row — 3 treble into ist hole, i chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into 2nd hole for the first corner, I chain, 3 treble in 3rd hole, 1 chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into 4th hole for the 2nd corner, i chain, 3 treble into 5th hole, I'chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into 6th hole for 3rd corner, i chain, 3 treble into the 7 th hole, i chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into the 8th hole for the 4th and last corner, work 3 rows like this (the centre to be of course in white), making 3 chain in the corner holes instead of 2, there will now be 5 rows in white. 6th row — blue in same way. 7th row — white same. 8th row — blue same. Now work 4 rows in white and a scalloped edge of I double crochet, 8 treble, i double crochet into every hole all round, 9 treble into the corner holes. High Crowned Hat. Commence with 3 chain and unite, work in double crochet, in- creasing by working 2 stitches into i when necessary to keep it quite flat until the round measures i inch across, work 3 rows plain that is I stitch into every stitch. 4th row — increase in every stitch by working 2 stitches into i. 5th row — i stitch into every stitch. 6th row — increase by working 2 stitches into every 6th stitch, rest plain. 7th row — i stitch into every one. 8th row — increase by working 2 into every 6th stitch. 9th row — i into every stitch. loth row— for brim, increase at every 3rd stitch by working 2 into it. Now work 3 rows quite plain, i do in blue to represent a binding and trim the hat with blue ribbon. DOLL'S TAM O' SHANTER, MANTELETTE AND MUFF. The hat is worked in double cro- chet, taking the stitch right through or rather between those of last row, for which h an ounce of any colour wool will be required, and a bone hook. No. 8 or 9. Work a chain of 3 and unite by a slip- stitch, into this ring of chain work 12 double crochet. 2nd round — 2 double crochet between those of last row. 3rd round — i double between each. 4th round — same. 5th round — increase by working 2 double between every 2nd stitch of last row, and i between the others. 6th round — i between each double crochet. 7th round — 2 double between every other stitch, 1 into the others. 8th round — I double between every stitch. 9th round — same. loth round — same, nth round — same. 12th round — decrease by pass- ing over every 7th stitch. 13th round — same. 14th round — same. 1 5th round — decrease in every 4th stitch by passing over i stitch. Now work 4 rows for the band without decreasing. Make a tuft of wool by winding it over the fingers 20 times, tie in the middle, cut even and sew it on the top through the hole on to the wrong side. MANTELETTE. Any small pieces of wool will do to make this, the pattern one is in crystal silk wool, bone hook No. 8. Work 4 chain and unite by a ilipstitch, into this ring of chain v/ork 3 chain, i double cro. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. chet 3 times; turn with 5 chain, i double crochet into ist hole, 3 chain, I double crochet into next, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the same hole, this for point at the back ; 3 chain, i double into next hole twice ; work S rows just the same, always turn with 5 chain, and end the row by working 3 loops into the last hole. For the border — i chain, 2 treble into every loop, increasing at each corner and point of back by working 2 treble, 5 chain, 2 treble. Last row for the edge — * 2 treble, 5 chain, the last caught back to the 1st chain to form a picot, 2 treble into ist hole, 3 chain, l double crochet into next, repeat from * all round and increase at the point of back by working 3 treble instead of 2 treble each side of the picot. For the neck — 3 chain, i double crochet into every hole, turn a piece over back of neck to form a collar, and run a cord and tassels of the wool in the neck to fasten it on by. Muff. With white Berlin wool work 11 chain, and raise these stitches in tricoter, work back and do in this way for 1 8 rows, join up by slipstitches on the wrong side, and draw in the ends by working i double crochet into every 2nd stitch round each end, make 56 chain and slip through the muff and join together, this is to hang it round dolly's neck. Another Way. Crochet a chain long enough for the muff and then work in looped crochet a piece long enough for it, join on the wrong side and finish off the ends in same way. Cuffs. With white Berlin wool make 7 chain rather loosely, and take up the stitches in tricoter, work back and repeat 6 rows, join them up very neatly on the wrong side, or if your muff is looped crochet, you can work them like that. Another way is to knit them, cast on steel knitting pins 12 stitches and work in plain knitting for 20 rows, cast off and join up. DOLL'S HOOD AND CAPE. Materials required, J an ounce of white Shetland wool, J an ounce of pale blue, bone hook No. 8, 2 yards of blue or white ribbon, id or 2d. the yard. You com- mence at the neck by working 24 chain in white, turn round and work 3 treble into the 6th stitch from hook, i chain, 3treble,miss i stitch of the foundation chain, repeat until you have 9 holes. 2nd row — turn with 4 chain and work 3 treble into ist hole, 1 chain, 3 treble into next, repeat to end of row, increasing in centre hole, which is the Sth, by working 2 sets into it. 3rd row — I chain, 3 treble into every hole, always turn with 4 chain. 4th i-ow — increase by working 2 sets into the 3rd hole, and same at the end. 5th row — in- crease at centre hole, rest plain. 6th row — increase in 2nd hole, same at the other end. 7th row — i chain, 3 treble into each hole. Sth row — increase in 6th hole, same at. other end. 9th row — I into each hole, which completes the cape ready for the border. Fasten on the blue wool at end of neck, and work down the fronts and round bottom i chain, 3 treble, increasing at the corners by working 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into corner hole. 2nd row with white in same way. 3rd row — blue same. 4th row — for edge with blue, i double crochet, 7 treble, i double crochet, into every hole all round, increase at the corners by working 9 treble instead of 7. For hood — fasten on white wool and work i chain, 3 treble into the 9 holes of cape (not on the border). 2nd row — 4 chain to turn, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble, leaving x hole unworked at the end. 3rd row — turn with 4 chain and work in same way. 4th row same, this decreasing is to bring it to a point at the top. 6th, 7tb, and 8th rows — the same, this ends it ready for the border. Now do the curtain by working into the 9 holes at neck, with white on the right side of cape, where hood is commenced, i chain, 3 treble into every hole, increasing at the centre hole to form a point to match hood ; work 3 rows in this way, fasten on blue and work the border all round hood and curtain, of I chain, 3 treble into every hole, increasing at the corners and point at top. 2nd row — white same. 3rd row — blue same. 4th row — for edge in blue, work in same way as for cape, i double crochet, 7 treble, i double crochet into every hole, 9 treble into the point and corners. Draw the hood up with ribbon and tie in a bow and ends at the top, run a piece round the neck for strings, and sew a small bov/ on the back of curtain. DOLL'S BONNET. You will require | an ounce of white single Berlin wool, a small piece of white Shetland, i yard of blue rib- bon at 2d the yard, and a steel hook No. i^. Begin by working 3 chain, unite byaslipstitch,work2 double crochet into each stitch and work round and round in double crochet, increasing when necessary to keep it quite flat by 2 stitches into I , until your round measures 3 inches across ; now work 6 rows without any increas- ing, that is I stitch into every i of last row. For -Nv,^ the front — work 43 treble 'stitches, finish the row in double crochet and in- crease at the centre of back by working 3 rows all round of double crochet, increasing at the beginning of row of treble, centre of back and end of row of treble, making 3 increas- ings, I for the back of curtain, i for eadi ear ; turn and work 3 rows of double crochet all round on the wrong side without any increas- ing, this forms a rolled piece to turn over on the right side of bon- net. Make a feather with white Shetland in looped crochet as follows, work a piece of chain, wind the wool over 2 fingers 6 times, crochet off in double crochet, and work i double crochet into 4th stitch from hook, make another loop in same way, also a third ; turn with 4 chain and work 3 more loops in same way going between those of last row, continue to do this until the feather is long enough to go straight across the bonnet from ear to ear, sew it on and blue strings at each end, these to be put on the outside, quill a piece of soft lace (or frilling will do) inside the front, when this very pretty little bonnet will be finished, and fit for a good sized doll. DOLL'S FASCINATOR CLOUD. You will require 2 bone knitting pins. No. 4, some pink Shetland wool, and single white Berlin. Cast on 16 stitches with white, and work 2 rows in plain knitting, fasten on the pink Shetland, and work 2 rows, keep, the 2 balls of wool on slip up each time it is wanted, work 31 ribs of white and 30 of pink ; cast off. Draw up l end and make a tassel of both wools, sew on firmly ; now draw the other end up, and make a rosette of the pink Shet- land, work 3 or 4 chain, unite by a slipsliich, and into this rmg of chain work loops of S chain, I double crochet, as many times as will fill it up thickly (or a bow of ribbon would look very nice) ; sew this on to the end which is to draw up over the face and wind it round dolly's neck, the tassels to be thrown over left shoulder. BOYS' SXJITS. OVERCOATS, ULSTERS, &c. Illustrating 16:? various Suits for all Ages, wiih plain descripticns for cutting cut and making up. Also all articles of Boys' Underclothing, Dressing Gow-ns, &c. Of all Newsagent?, or post free, s^^., from Mrs. Leach, 2, Johraon's Court, Fleet St.. Lcndoa. 39 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, DOLLS' HATS. Turn-down Shape. With white Berlin wool and a steel hook, No. ij, work 3 chain, and unite by a slip- stitch, now work 3 double crochet into every stitch, and continue to work round and round, increasing when neces- I sary to keep it quite flat by working 2 stitches into i until the crown measures about 2 inches across ; now work 5 rows without any increasing. For brim, 2 double crochet into every 3rd stitch, rest plain. 2 rows of i double crochet into every stitch. For edge, i double crochet, 3 treble, i double crochet into the 3rd stitch, 2 double crochet, that is i into each, then I double crochet, 2 treble, i double crochet into 3rd stitch, repeat these little scallops all round ; turn the brim up a little on one side if liked with a few knot stitches in pink, and make a feather in looped crochet and rosette in same way as directions given for turn-up hat in Doll's Walking Costume, No. 2. Turban Shape. This is worked in exactly the same way for crown, but instead of working 5 rows plain, there must be 12, 6 with white wool, and the last 6 in colour to turn up on the right side, which will make it the proper shape ; make a small tuft of wool, and iew on fionL HOW TO DRESS A LITTLE BOY DOLL AS A SAILOR, For this you will require for a doll 18 inches long (for which size the model was made), 2J ounces of navy blue wool, | oz. of pale blue, J oz. of white. Commence with the trousers : make a chain of 20, join in a round, ist row — I long treble into every stitch. 2nd row — miss i, i long treble into every stitch, taking up the back only. 3rd row — same as 2nd. 4th to 8th rows — plain ; fasten off. Now do another leg the same and catch the two together. 'Now go on working round and round both legs, taking 2 stitches together in every row for the centre of the back ; do this for 5 rows, and fasten off. The trousers are now complete ; an elastic should be run ' in at the waist. For the blouse, make a chain of 50 and unite. Work 6 rows plain. 7th row — 2 double, 12 long treble, turn with 3 chain, long treble (picking up front loop) on second long treble and I long treble on next 6 stitches, I treble on 7th, I double on 8th, 1 double on 9th, taking up both loops. 2nd row — turn, 2 double into first 2 stitches, long treble to end, picking up back loop ; fasten off. This completes part of right front; miss 2 stitches of long pieces for the armhole, and fasten on in 3rd, work 3 chain to form 1st treble, 26 consecutive long treble. This leaves 16 stitches unworked, 2 for left armhole, and 14 for left front. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain and work plainly across the 27 trebles, but pick up the /roni loop instead of back. 3rd row— the same, but picking up back as usual ; fasten off. Fasten on for left front, leaving 2 stitches for armhole, make 3 chain to form I st treble, II consecutive long treble, 2 consecutive double, taking up both loops. 2nd row — 2 consecutive double, picking up both loops, I treble on nextstitch,picking upfront loop,longtreble to end;be sure to take up the front loop. 3rd row— turn with 3 chain, 8 loiTf treble, 2 40 double, turn, i double through both loops 3 times, I treble through front loop, long treble to armhole, always taking up front loop, i long treble in 1st treble of backpiece, long treble right across back, I long treble in first treble on right front, 4 consecutive long treble, l treble. Next row, 3 double, I treble in back loop, 3 long treble, miss i; this should be at the shoulder; long treble right across back to other shoulder, miss r, 4 long treble, i treble, 3 double ; turn, 3 double through both loops, i treble through front loop, 2 long treble, miss i, 13 long treble, miss I, 13 long treble, which brings you to second shoulder, miss I, 2 long treble, 1 treble, 3 double; turn, 3 double, i treble through back loop, 3 long treble, miss I, 3 long treble, miss i, 3 long treble, miss i, 3 long treble, miss I, 3 long treble, miss I, 3 long treble, miss i, 3 long treble, miss I, 3 long treble, i treble, 3 'double ; fasten off. Now fasten on for the sleeve under the arm and work about 20 long treble round ; join. 2nd row — miss 2, long treble all round ; work 3 more rows, missing i each time. Now for the band: pick up 3 stitches at a time and work i double. 2nd row — double into every stitch ; fasten off. IVIake the other sleeve the same. Now do the collar with the pale blue wool. Make a chain of 21, turn and work double into every chain. 2nd row — turn with i chain, 2 double into 1st stitch (picking up back loop), i double into every stitch till you come to the last, in which work 2. 3rd row — plain. Repeat these 3 rows 4 times more. Now halve the collar andleave 2 stitches in the middle, work backwards and forwards one half for 14 rows, decreasing i stitch in every row till the collar comes to a point; break off and do the other half the same. Thread a wool needle with blue wool, put the half of collar to the half of neck of blouse, and pin the points to end of neck, and ease in nicely; fasten off securely. Crochet a chain of the light wool twice as long as will go round collar, place it round and loop into a knot. Now with white wool commence the vest; make a chain of 12. 1st row — double into every stitch. 2nd row — increase I by working 2 stitches into the Ist double, double to the end. Repeat 8 times more, nth row — work 10 stitches only. 12th row — turn; miss I, double to the end. 13th row — plain. 14th row — decrease once, work 5 more rows plain ; fasten off. Miss 4 stitches in the centre of wide part and work the remaining I, turn and work a piece to correspond with the right side ; fasten off. For the buttonholes push aside the stitches at top and bottom of back of vest and sew over with wool ; sew 2 pearl buttons on the left side. This finishes the dress. Now for the hat : commence with 2 chain and unite, work 2 double into every chain. 2nd row — 3 double into every stitch of last row; finish the row with I single and make it with a piece of light wool. 3rd row — 2 double into ist stitch, I double into next. Repeat all round. 4th row — i double into the first 2 stitches, 2 double into the next. Repeat all round. 5th row — like the 4th. Do 5 rows without increasing. This finishes the crown. 1st row of brim — 2 double into every stitch. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — increase in every 4th stitch. 4th row — plain; join on the light wool. 5th row — plain. 6th row — pass over every 4th stitch. 7th row — pass over every 6th stitch. 8th row — pass over every Sth stitch. 9th row — plain. loth row — pass over every 10th stitch, nth row — pass over every I3th stitch. 13th row — plain. Fasten off. Now take a needleful of wool and tack this light blue lining nicely to inside of crown, procure half a yard of half-inch navy blue ribbon and place round the crown, crossing the ends behind; sew on elastic, and the hat is complete. This suit will fit a doll iS inches in length, and can easily be enlarged. DOLLS' BOOTS. With white Berlin wool and No. 8 bone hook work 6 chain, i double crochet into 2nd chain stitch I into the 3rd stitch, 2 double crochet into the 4th stitch, i double into the Sth stitch, I double into the 6th stitch, turn and work 3 double crochet, taking the back part of stitch, to form ribs, 2 into the 4th stitch, i into the rest. Work 4 more rows in exactly the same way, always increasing at centre. Next row — work half in same way, and in the centre-stitch 5 chain for leg. Work back and finish row ; then work all these stitches backwards and for- wards for 13 rows or 6 nbs; join up to the other side of leg; sew up the toe on the wrong side with a needle and wool, also the foot. Put an edge of any colour on the top by working l treble, I chain, I treble into every rib. Run a piece of wool or Chinese ribbon round the ankles and tie in a neat little hew. IMliEMlE© WllM 1@1 .^MMMmm PMUBEM BE Mrs. LEACH'S FANCY BASKET Mrs. LMCH'S WOffi BASKET fo/- Descriptions, Patterns, do., see the Christmas. Number of "The Fancy Work-Basket." Price 3d. 7 L A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. » ♦ ^^ P ♦ M Our Coloured Supplement. The designs for art needlework shown in the coloured supple- ment published with this number of The Fancy Work-Basket have all been copied from specimens of Indian embroidery that were exhibited at the recent Colonial and Indian Exhibition. They are extremely effective and bold, and lend themselves admirably to reproduction on a variety of materials, and for several other purposes besides those for which they were originally intended. To begin with THE TEA COSY. Soft silk or satin of a rich yet subdued tone of red is used for the background, and on this is traced a very bold and handsome arabesque design, consisting almost entirely of scrolls, the otherwise heavy nature of the embroidery being relieved here and there by a simple circle filled in with a network of gold thread. The colours used for the needlework are deep blue and golden yellow, and the design itself is filled in with closely laid crewel or tapestry stitches, the blue and yellow colours being very evenly balanced. Filoselle is, of course, the most satisfactory kind of silk to use for the embroi- dery, but the design is so bold that crewel wool may be substituted if something less costly is desired, the minor parts only being worked with silk. Two small circles that are to be found on the central line of the pattern are worked in satin stitch, one in the blue and the other in the yellow silk. Four circles, reminding one somewhat of miniature tennis rackets, are shown in the design. These are carried out in fine gold thread, the strands of which are darned in and out over one another so as to form an even lattice- work of small diamonds over the space enclosed by the circle. The threads of gold at the edges of these designs must be drawn through to the wrong side of the satin, and brought through again to the right side at the proper place at which to pass across the next line of gold. Finally the ends must be finished off as in braiding, that is, passed through to the wrong side, and fastened down with a stitch or two. A small oblong pattern nearly in the centre of the design must be filled in in the same way. It will need much care to get the diamonds thus formed quite regular and symmetrical, and it would be well to practise first on a piece of material that is not so likely to suffer from experiments as silk or satin would be. The edges of these racket-like designs may be worked either in satin stitch or in buttonhole stitch, according to fancy. It would be advisable to leave the working of the gold lattice work till quite the last, as otherwise it would be likely to become pushed out of place while the other portions were being worked, and it would tend to make the edges of the circles irregular and une-\'en if they were worked after the gold was done. The Japanese gold thread sold in balls of various degrees of coarseness is the best to use for this purpose, as it is, when of a good quality, less liable to tarnish than the cheaper kinds, and is, therefore, more economical in the end. No shading is shown in the design, but this may be easily added if the scrolls seem to need throwing into higher relief. The design of this cosy is so handsome that it would be equally suitable for appliqud work. Indeed, a tea-pot cosy would look very rich and effective if the pattern were traced out in dull gold coloured and blue velvet, and appliqudd to a background of dark crimson satin, or in simple black velvet on a foundation of red satin cloth or satin sheeting, while prettier than all would be one carried out in gold and crimson satin apphqued to seal-brown plush. Stitches of the same shade of colour maybe carried over the applique, if it is considered flat without em- broidery. The design is also suitable for the new German felts. We can supply the cosy ready traced for working on this material in four new art shades, viz., dark and light brown, crimson and claret, for IS. Zd., post free. BORDER FOR MANTEL VALANCE. The pointed design shown in the supplement is admirably adapted for a border to a table, mantel-valance, bracket, or indeed for any piece of work that requires a good handsome scallop as a finish. The ever-usef al satin is the best material for the foundation of the embroidery, the pile of plush or velvet rendering it more difficult to operate upon. The design consists of an arrangement of stars and scroll-like leaves, which forms a border at the top, and very much conventionalised flowers, sprays, and leaves below, in the deeply cut points. The colours used are rich amber and heliotrope, and the embroidery is best worked in filoselle. This is to be preferred in most art embroidery to crewel silk, which is, as a rule, too tightly Vol. II. No. 15. twisted to have anything but a hard appearance when worked The whole design is worked in satin stitch. A slanting variety of this stitch is carried out above and below the border at the top, so that the appearance of a fiat cord is given. An amber silk fringe edges the points, but its place may be taken by a bullion fringe, or by tassels, one being placed at the tip of each point and one between each. SETTEE COVER OR CUSHION. Only one quarter of this design is shown. It consists of a hand- some star of eight points, filled in with circles and roundels worked in various coloured silks. The foundation of the embroidery consists of a coarse diagonal material, purple in colour. One of the many serges sold specially for art needlework will answer the purpose well. The predominant colours in the design are pale blue, gold, and white, with here and there an outlining of black, which stands out very boldly and effectively from the rest of the work. Satin stitch is largely employed here, the straight and slender lines being worked in outline stitch. The white flat rosettes that are dispersed over the design may be cut out of satin and appliqued to the serge, a few stitches in silk of a neutral tint being worked over them in such a curved direction as to give them a fluted appearance. They may, however, be worked entirely in white filoselle if this is preferred. The white lines are worked in filoselle in outline stitch, as are also a number of small straight stitches, about an eighth of an inch long and the sixteenth of an inch apart. These are very effective all round the edge of the star, and serve to break up the stiftness of the outline. The design and style of the embroidery would look well uiilised as a centre to a small table-cloth or sofa cushion. We can supply the cover ready traced in German felt iox is. 8d., same colours as tea cosy, post free. BORDER. This charming little border is worked in red, yellow and v.hite, on a background of black cloth. Enlarged, it would be an exceed- ingly pretty one to work on strips of black satin for bell-ropes, or, indeed, for any purpose for which a running pattern is required. The design, although conventional, is not so stiff as conventional designs too often are. Satin stitch is employed in the smaller por- tions of the pattern in this strip, and crewel stitch where the design is wider. Much to be admired is the single line of red outline stitch which follows the lines of the yellow stems and leaves. Particularly effective, too, are the few stitches of white that are introduced into this design. The red part of the flower may be worked iu button- hole stitch, if this is preferred to satin stitch, while the black pear- shaped mark in the extreme centre of each flower should be worked as one elongated French knot, better known, perhaps, under the name of "knotted stitch." A narrow line of yellow is carried up each side of the embroidered band, and would look well worked in couching stitch, that is, a line of filoselle laid on the outline and caught over with a stitch of the same colour from side to side at intervals of about a quarter of an inch. To give the main parts of this piece of work a raised appearance, the design may first be worked over closely and thickly with chain stitch, as is done some- times in hvoderie Anglaise, before working" the satin stitch. A few words as to the best manner of transferring a design to a material such as serge, cloth or satin may not be amiss in this place, where the difficulty of doing so will probably present itself to intending workers. The pattern should first be drawn to scale and enlarged to the size required, then traced on to ti-acing or tissue paper. The material on which the work is to be done should either be stretched on a frame or on a drawing-board and fastened firmly in its place with drawing-pins. The design is next laid over it, and also fixed firmly in position. Care must be taken not to leave any of the material uncovered by the tissue paper, or the chalk may not brush off from it readily. Cover the paper rather freely with finely pow- dered white chalk. With a good-sized pin prick holes very close together all over the lines of the pattern, and if this is carefully done the pattern will, when the paper is taken oft', be found reproduced in a series of tiny white dots on the surface of the material. Then with a small camel's hair paint brush and Chinese white, mixed as dry as possible, go carefully over the outlines of the design with the white paint, dusting off the loose chalk afterwards. This will give a clear copy of the pattern, and will not show in the least when the work is completed. A fine tracing wheel may be used instead of the pin, but will not be so good for the small cur\-es. We supply one for 20 stamps. 41 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Hints for Christmas and New Year's Gifts. The description of the following articles may prove of use to those who are pondering the weighty matter of providing suitable gifts for their friends at the Christmas season, and especially for those who prefer to give presents of their own manufacture. These are not only less expensive than the bought articles, for which too often exorbitant prices are asked, but are far more highly prized by the fortunate recipients, besides affording many pleasant hours to the worker during the dreary days of dark winter. A mall easel for standing on a table to display a specially pretty drawing or painting would prove not only an acceptable present, but a very useful one. The easel itself may be of the commonest and cheapest description obtainable, but when covered and draped with plush all the original article will be hidden. The legs and support of the easel should be covered by a narrow strip of plush cut just wide enough to fit round the parts to be covered, and to allow of a small piece to be turned in to make the edges neat. Care must be taken to get the joins in the plush down the backj'so that they are not seen. When the easel is entirely covered, the rest of the work is not so easy to describe on paper. A straight piece of plush is required, edged at the lower edge with a fancy fringe. This scarfstarts from the left side of the easel, is twisted as carelessly and gracefully as possible across and in and out the top, making a kind of festoon at the corner, when it is carried again to the bottom of the easel, as it was managed on the first side, leaving the end to fall free like a scarf. A few stitches or tiny gimp tacks may be used to keep the scarf in place. To drape one of these small easels is not such an easy matter as to drape an ordinary tall one. There is not so much room for the display of artistic taste in the matter of graceful folds. If it is a very small easel, and plush is considered too heavy a material to drape well on it, one of the printed silk Indian scarfs will answer the purpose admirably, and be easier to manipulate. These scarfs; by the way, make charming long purse work-bags. Two are required for each bag. They must be sewn together all round, with the exception of rather less than a third of the length, which must be left unsewn in the centre of one of the sides. The fringe at the end should be left and supplemented by a frill of lace or only a large tassel, according to fancy. Two large brass curtain rings are used to keep the bag closed. P'or mothers of large families a mending basket is a very useful gift. This may be made from a Fig. I. large basket, like a waste-paper basket. It should be lined with a pretty coloured cashmere and a bag of the same sewn in at the top and furnished with ribbon strings to draw it up with. This is the simplest way of managing a basket of this kind, but if it is wished more elaborate procure two rather deep round boxes without any lids, cover these inside and out with the cashmere, 42 and stitch them very firmly into the basket about an inch below the edge, make a small cashmere pincushion, sew that between the boxes or pockets, as they must now be called, on one side and a flannel needlebook on the opposite side. The basket might have had the word " mending" embroidered roughly on it in coarse wool before it was lined, or it might be ornamented with rough but effective flowers and leaves made of cashmere of appropriate colours and appliqu6d on. If the basket is furnished with a loose round lid of wicker work, as many of the so-called waste-paper baskets are, this may be padded on the under side and do duty for both needlebook and pincushion. In this case the bag at the top of the basket will not be required. Coloured quilts are just now very fashionable, and the crochet work discontinued of late bids fair to be popular once more. The work wears and washes admirably, and nothing could look handsomer than a quilt crocheted in crimson and cream coloured cotton in a good, really handsome design. Other handsome quilts are made of canvas, which can be had now in double widths, and embroidered in either tapestry or cross-stitch. Of course a heavy lace should border it. An ordinary full sized blanket makes a substantial winter counterpane for winter use if it is richly orna- mented with embroidery, while if a real work of art is desired, nothing could be more charming than a quilt we saw lately com- posed of white quilted satin. It was quilted in very small diamonds and afterwards embroidered at the corners with a very handsome pattern of scrolls, birds, flowers, &c. Of course this quilt was made only of such a size as to be laid on the flat part of the bed, not covering the pillows or hanging down at the sides at all. It was finished off with a lining of white silk. A set of nicely embroidered linen towels would also be a suitable present for a housekeeper. Some are sold woven for the express purpose of being embroidered with cross-stitch ; but, newer than this, is a towel worked with a design in Mountmellick embroidery. This should occupy the lower right hand corner, and extend if desired along the bottom, according to fancy. If nothing so elaborate be desired, the centre of the towel may be simply ornamented with a very large initial letter, or two if preferred, worked in thick satin stitch in several ingrain colours, as the pocket handkerchiefs are marked. A really elegant tablecloth for a small table may be made from two of Liberty's silk handkerchiefs in pretty artistic shades of colour. As one handkerchief is to serve as a lining to the other, the tints should be chosen with a due regard to this. If a salmon pink handkerchief, for instance, is to be used for the outside, a very pale blue one would look well for the lining. The pink handkerchief should be lined first with a piece of soft linen, to add a little sub- stance to the silk and render it more pleasant to work upon. The comers should then be embroidered with a full design worked in no silk that is thicker than two threads of filoselle. A little fine Japanese tinsel should be mixed in with the embroidery, and great care should be taken not to draw or pucker the v/orn, or the cloth will not hang well. The design looks best if it spreads far into the centre from the corners and leaves only a small portion of the silk unworked in the middle. Nothing could possibly be used to border this tea-cloth more satisfactorily than a frill of old thread lace, but if this is not forthcoming, a modern imitation must perforce take its place. A tinsel or bullion fringe would also look well. The general idea of this tablecloth was borrowed from one of Venetian origin that dated from the 17th century, and which was exhibited at a recent exhibition. Another very handsome tablecloth might be made of dark yet rich crimson cashmere, the design traced on it being followed sim- ply with lines of gold and silver tinsel, allowing no large expanse of the red cashmere to show between them. This has all the appear- ance of Indian embroidery when seen from a little distance. A rich looking cover for a sofa cushion that was brought under our notice lately was made of that red damask with a large pattern all over it that used to be until lately so commonly made up into bed and window furniture. This particular piece seemed to be of wool, with a silk finish, but was enriched by an embroidery in gold filoselle of various shades all over it. It was a sort of pattern that would be chosen for braiding, and the filoselle was couched over the lines as in ecclesiastical embroidery. French knots were used to fill up the instertices of the pattern where it was thought advisable to add a little richness. An elegant and yet simple handkerchief sachet consists of creamy white satin, with a thick handsome design worked on it in satin stitch in the corners with thick cream-coloured silk. The result is particu- larly rich and good, but perhaps would be considered as appropriate more for a wedding than a Christmas present. A panel worked in this way on the same satin as the wedding dress would make an excellent wedding gift. lllE FANCV WOKK-tiASKET. A very handsome work-bag might be made in the ordinary bag shape of dark blue plush or velvet, with a good scroll pattern traced on the two sides. This design should be followed with wadding first, tacked on in a small roll, over this is sewn gold braid, the stitching being on both edges of the braid, so that the wadding is completely hidden and yet gives a raised appearance to the braid, almost as if it were a golden rope cut in half and laid on the velvet. At either edge of the braid as a finish should be sewn a very narrow gold cord, as fine and delicate as can be procured. Two golden tassels should finish off the two lower corners of the bag, and similar tassels, but of a smaller size, should be fastened to the ends of the cord which draw up the mouth of the bag. Needless to say the bag should be lined with cream-coloured silk brought quite to the edge at the top, so that it shows here and there when the bag is closed. A mantel border would look very handsome if embroidered in the same way as this work-bag. The gold braid must, of course, be very much wider for a mantel valance. A pretty pincushion cover, suitable for a gift to those who still, use the square bran-stufifed pincushions for the dressing table, may be made of ordinary white book muslin of a good quality, with a pretty design of trailing leaves and flowers traced on it in fine em- broidery. The pattern should be drawn with ink on pink glazed calico, tacked to the muslin so that the ink lines show through, then outlined with very tiny stitches close together. The peculiar- ity of each stitch should be that it is not drawn quite tight, but is left free, as a small loop such as careful mothers leave at the end of each line when they are darning stockings. A large pin may be slipped into each loop until the next loop is ready, if any difficulty is experienced in keeping the stitches regular. The whole design may be covered with crewel or darning stitches if preferred. It must be borne in mind during the process of working that never must the needle be driven through the calico on which the pattern is traced. This is simply used to avoid marking the muslin by pencil or transfer design, and serves the same purpose as the leather used in ordinary English embroidery. Fine embroidery cotton is the best to use for this work, and if preferred, coloured cotton may be used instead of white. This kind of work was fully described on page 148 of No. 8. Fig. 2. The German bolsters for attaching to the backs of chairs are very acceptable, and improve the comfort of many a straight backed seat. A novel way of managing these is to join a triangular piece of plush and a triangular piece of satin so as to make the form of a square. Embroider a thick, rich design in the centre of the square thus made with arrasene, then cover the bolster with it, then sew on a long piece of cord by which the bolster can be hung to the back of the chair. A novel splash-back for a wash-stand may be made in the shape of a very wide open fan. Cut out the shape in cardboard and cover it with pale blue or pink sateen. Cut out a. selection of birds, flowers and butterflies from cretonne, and stick them in a pretty half wreath across the fan. Finally draw a few lines of tinsel down the fan from the edge to the point at the bottom of the fan and add a cord and tassels there as a finish. A useful rack for hanging up in a h.vU to hold button-hook, shoe- horn, and such small articles which in some households have a faculty for getting lost, may be contrived out of an ordinar)' wooden rolling pin, one of those with a small handle at each end. It is first of all covered completely with the ever useful plush, and then hooks are screwed in along its length at intervals of about an inch and a half Care must be taken that the hooks all point in the same upward direction. An ornamental ribbon must be fastened to each end of the pin so that it can be hung up wher- ever the owner finds it will be most convenient. Sometimes these glorified rolling pins are made of smooth white wood that can be easily painted upon, then the always troublesome business of covering them with plush can be dispensed with. A very useful little gift is a string bo.v, which may be readily contrived out of a round card- FlG. 3. board box with a lid such as linen or paper collars are sold in, in fact, any round box will do, provided that it will hold a small ball of string comfortably. Ornament the bottom part of the box first, by stretching a piece of plush round it, make the two sides of the plush join very neatly, so that the edges just meet, then make a nice full ruching of narrow satin ribbon and sew it round the box at the bottom. The top or lid of the box must have a round hole bored in the middle with a stiletto, so that the end of the ball of string may be slipped through it. Lay a round piece of wadding on the top of the lid, being careful here again to leave the hole free, then over this stretch a circular piece of plush, securing it with strong stitches round the edge of the lid. Take some very fine gold or fancy cord, pass it ^'*^- 4- through the centre hole, and as far as the edge of the lid ; pass about five lines of cord across the lid in this way, radiating like the spokes of a wheel, taking care that they are all at equal distances apart, and that the ends are firmly fastened off. Get a small round piece of wood with a hole in the middle (any carpenter will turn one), gild it, and fasten it firmly with strong glue to the centre of the box lid, so that the hole in the wood will come exactlv over the hole in the box. Finally edge the lid of the box all round \vith ruching to match that on the bottom part, and cover any imperfec- tions caused by the stitches inside, by lining the box throughout with gold paper. A small loop of elastic may be sewn at the side of the box to take a small pair of scissors, if it is wished as complete as possible. A shaving tidy would be an appropriate little gift for a gentleman. It is easy to make, but requires neat work. For the cover, cut a piece of American clotTi measuring 8 inches by 7. Fold it in half like a sheet of paper, line it with coloured sateen, and ver)- flatly and neatly bind it all round with ribbon to correspond in colour. Now cut about 12 sheets of linen about half an inch smaller in every direction than the American cloth cover. Each of the leaves of linen must either be bound with ribbon, button-holed, scalloped, or otherwise embroidered all round. Sew a very narrow piece of ribbon or elastic inside in the middle of the case from side to side and slip the sheets of linen under it, just as the leaves of blotting paper are managed in a blotting case, so that they can be easily taken out and washed. The outside of the American cloth should be decorated with a little oil painting, according to fancy. -A. loop of ribbon may be sewn on at one corner in case the owner prefers that the tidy shall hang up. Another novel and appropriate present for a gentleman is a tennis scarf Many players consider these an improvement on the silk square generally used. About 2 ounces of knitting silk are re- quired for an ordinary sized scarf, and vulcanite pins. No. 5. The silk is knitted in ordinary plain knitting into a long straight piece, about 2 yards and a half long, and 8 inches wide. The ends are either finished off" with a fringe or else drawn up in a point with a good handsome silk tassel. A large rush hat may be easily turned into an ornamental and useful wall pocket to nail up in a corridor or conservatory to hold a pot of ferns or trailing plants. The hat is first edged all round the brim, with a good stout piece of wire, then painted all over any colour that may be preferred. Sometimes they are gilded and picked out with black, but almost any colour bears the damp better than the gold. When the paint is quite dry, the brim of the hat is bent so that about a quarter of it stands up- right and rests against the wall when it is in use ; the rest of the brim is bent down in a graceful cur\-e in front, so that it supports the trails of the plant used in it. Many of the French flower baskets which are so expensive to buy may be imitated with ver>' good results, with the help of some of these broad brimmed hats. 43 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Fig. A handle is, of course,necessary over the top. It may be contrived of two fine twigs intertwisted, or simply of a piece of crinoline steel bent over the top, covered with ribbon, and finished off with long loops and floating ends of the same ribbon. The hat may be gilded or painted, and the brim must be curved down as grace- fully as possible. A scarf to lay on the top of an ordinary cottage piano would form a fashionable and handsome gift. These scarves may be made exceedingly pretty and tasteful in appearance^ but true lovers of music will always remove them before performing on the instrument, as they naturally tend to deaden and mufHe the sound. Plush is the material of all others of which they should be made. It should be cut just the width of the top of the piano, and long enough to allow of about lo or 12 inches to hang down at the ends, much like a sideboard cloth. It simply requires a handsome embroidery down the centre of the plush, and a piece of fringe at each end. The scarf should then be lined with some thin, soft kind of silk that will not interfere with its setting and hanging well. Another way of making a piano scarf is to make the centre of tussore silk prettily embroidered, to add at each end a quarter of a yard of plush, and at each end again a three-inch wide hem of the embroidered tussore, this again being finished with a rich chenille fringe to match the plush in colour. A lining of sateen to match finishes the scarf. It will be seen from this what easy things these scarfs are to make, and how very ornamental they may be made. There are many kinds of soft Indian silk, serge, cashmere and other materials not so costly as those described, which can be used with very good eft'ect. Mantelpiece scarfs are also much patronised just now, and are made in just the same way as those for the top of the piano. We have touched bullittleuponthesubject of hand-painted articles; those who are fortunate enough to possess a talent for painting will gain more hints from studying the contents of the windows of such shops as make a speciaHty of " paintable " articles than from the perusal of many pages of printed matter. The trifles we have endeavoured to describe are not so easily come by, but are more often the result of individual taste and ingenuity, and as such should be all the more highly prized by their fortunate recipients. Art Needlework. Nothing gives greater satisfaction than our own work, especially when it is both useful and ornamental. Now, tablecloths are necessary in a room, either on a large table or a little " five o'clock tea" gipsy one. Cross-stitch takes a long time to work, and after all is very suggestive of the " samplers " of our youth, so the new appliqu^ and crewel work on cloth must be hailed with delight by those to whom time is a consideration. We saw some very handsome covers, large and small, at one of the principal Regent Street shops lately, made of fawn coloured cloth, with pieces of Paisley cut out and appliqu(5d on with various coloured silks, forming the centre and corners, and bordered round with fringe matching the colours used in working on the pattern. At the first glance it had all the appearance of Oriental work, and it was only by close examination that its sim- plicity was brought to view. Four "pines" of Paisley formed the centre of the large cover, each being worked over with silks matching the different colours in the pattern cut out. Fig. i will give an idea of the manner of introducing the silk stitches. The little points round were done in red, green and amber, a long stitch of each colour forming the three little branches. Crewels could be used with equal 44 effect and less expense. The " five o'clock tea " covers had only '^^ corners and a very small portion for the border. The large one had a band of the trimming appliqued on as well as the corners of three " pines." A propos of Paisley, we find pieces forming waistcoats, panels, &c., tor dresses will be very fashionable worked over with coloured silks and gold cord, with a few sequins introduced, outlining the collar, &c. The effect can easily be imagined as exceedingly handsome, and over a black dress most becoming, especially to anyone very dark. A waist- coat of this descrip- tion could also be worn with dark green, navy blue, grey, or brown, with equal effect. Any of our fair readers whose mother or grandmother pos- sesses one of these shawls too old to wear, we advise to coax into parting with it, and after carefully washing, cut up into waist- coats, trimming, &c. 1 1 will repay the little time and trouble re- quired. Figs.2and3 form very handsome additions to the toilet, and are very simple to work. The pattern is out- lined with purse silk sewn on with fine silk, matching in colour, of course, then worked across and across, the corners being caught down with a stitch, or a bead if preferred ; outside the pattern there are small beads. The model Fig. 2 was taken from was done on light brown Fig. 2. satin ; the silks were two or three shades darker, and the beads were gold colour. It was to wear with a brown velveteen dress, and a border for the panel was the same pattern as the outside of Fig. 2. Figs. 4 and 5 are worked in the same Fig. 3. way, only outlined with cord, and could be done with silks in colour harmonising with the shade of the dress, or contrasting if desired. The waist- coat would look very bright, and go with almost any dress, if worked with scarlet silk and black or gold beads on black satin. Fig. 5 would be a pretty pattern for an antimacassar worked in crewels, and out- lined with gold cord, Fig. 4. Qniy in that case the cross-bars should be caught down with a contrasting colour, say green or scarlet with yellow. If any difficulty is experienced as regards tracing, or advice required for colours, &c., we shall be happy to help our readers if stamped envelope is enclosed for reply. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. The perforated felt is greatly admired for gentlemen's smoking caps, slippers, tobacco pouches, tea cosies, mats, &c., and we will give some patterns in our next article, but space does not permit it this time. CHILDREN'S WORK AT THE COLONIAL EXHIBITION. ~ There were few things more interesting in the late Exhibition than the work executed by the children of the public schools of the British Colonies. The Prince of Wales must have known the deficiencies of our Board Schools in comparison with those of the Dominion of Canada and Australia when he was so anxious for the pupils to be admitted at a reduced rate. The work executed by these children in a far-off land, both as regards needlework and educational exer- cises, were models of completeness, and showed most careful training. Everything done was well finished off, and did not bear that touching- up appearance which marks so frequently the drawing exercises and work done by the school children here in England. The knitted socks were beautifully done in patterns, not the plain knitting we are accustomed to see, and made by children of seven or eight. All the work was scrupulously clean and had not been washed. A facsimile of a gentleman's shirt was made by a little girl of eight, a pupil of the State Schools of Canada. Indeed, underlinen was well represented. Fancy work, too, was not neglected. We give a sofa pillow covering for the benefit of our little ones, who could soon learn to do it, it being very easy and effective. The one the pattern is taken from was worked with green, yellow, violet, and scarlet wool, on single canvas, in squares of about two inches, and a smaller square formed by working across the under bars of wool ; each square was then outlined with black wool from comer to corner. The bars forming the small square should be of a contrasting colour, or they can be of the same, if preferred. A square of violet wool with a small one of yellow over it, green with scarlet, yellow with violet, and the same colours reversed, harmonises vi^ell, and give great variety to the whole. The canvas must be marked with Indian ink to forni the squares, and act as a guide. There is no waste of work at the back of the canvas, as each square is worked from right to left, and vice versfi, taking up one thread each time. There were several pretty crochet edgings ; and a chemise top crocheted with fine cotton byagirl of ten wasexceedingly pretty, although simple. The pattern must have been cut out in paper first. It was only done on a chain — 4 chain into the founda- tion, forming loops, then another row, then 6 double crochet into each loop, then 5 chain, turn back to third, 3 more chain into loops. The top was finished off with a little edging of loops, the same round the sleeves ; narrow ribbon drew it up. A very handsome quilt was crocheted with white and fawn coloured cotton in a star pattern, very similar to the tufted quilt in No. 11 of Fancy Work-Basket, the tufted star being of the latter colour. The one in No. 1 1 would look quite as well worked in the two cottons, and be more service- able than all white, which soon becomes yellow by washing, especially if done in London. Knitting. DIAMOND STRIPE FOR COUNTERPANE. Materials required : — Knitting cotton, No. 5, bone needles. No. 11, Walker's gauge. Quantity of cotton must depend upon the size of the quilt. For the wide stripe — cast on 53 stitches, ist row — purl I and knit I lo times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i and purl l 10 times. 2nd row — knit l and purl I 10 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I and knit I 10 times. 3rd row— purl i and knit I 10 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl l, knit 3, purl 3, knit l and purl I 10 times. 4th row — purl I and knit l 9 times, purl l, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl I, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl and knit alternately to end of row. 5th row — knit I purl i for 9 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl 1 9 times. 6th row — purl I knit I 9 times, purl l, knit 3, purl 3, knit l, purl I, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl and knit alternately to end of row. 7th row — purl and knit alternately for 9 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl l, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of row. 8th row — knit I purl i alternately 9 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 9th row — purl I and knit i alternately for 9 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. loth row — purl i knit i alternately for 8 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 5, knit l, purl 3, knit 3, purl and knit alternately to end of row. nth row — knit i purl I for 8 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 5, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. 12th row — purl i knit i alternately 8 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 5, knit I, purl 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of the row. 13th row— purl I knit i alternately 8 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of row. 14th row — knit i purl i 8 times alternately, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. 15th row— purl i knit I alternately 8 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of row. 16th row — purl I knit i alternately 7 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of row. 17th row — knit I purl i alternately 7 times, knit r, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. 1 8th row — purl I knit I alternately 7 times, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of 45 THE l^AMCV WORK'UASKET. row. 19th row'^purl I knit 1 alternately 7 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 5, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 20th row— knit i purl i alternately 7 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 5, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit 1 alternately to end of row. 21st row — purl i knit i alternately 7 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 5, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 22nd row — purl 1 knit I alternately 6 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 7, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 23rd row— knit i purl i 6 times alternately, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 7, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of row. 24th row — purl i knit i alterna- tely 6 times, purl l, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 7, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 25th row — purl I knit l alternately for 6 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 9, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. 26th row — knit I purl I alternately 6 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 9, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. 27th row — purl l knit I alternately 6 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl l, knit 3, purl 9, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit and purl alternately to end of the row. 28th row— purl I knit I alternately 5 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 1 1, purl 3, knit l, purl 3, knit 3, purl and knit alternately to end of the row. 29th row — knit i purl i alternately 5 times, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 11, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. 30th row — purl i knit i alternately 5 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 11, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of the row. 31st row — purl I knit i alternately 5 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 5, make i, knit i, make i, purl 6, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of the row. 32nd row — knit I purl I alternately 5 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 6, purl 3, knit 6, purl 3, knit l, purl 3, knit 3, purl l knit i alternately to end of the row. 33rd row — purl i knit i alternately 5 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 6, knit I, make i, knit I, make I, knit 1, purl 6, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 34th row — purl i knit i alternately 4 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, Knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of row. 35th row — knit I purl i alternately 4 times, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 7, knit 2, make I, knit i, make i, knit 2, purl 7, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of the row. 36th row — purl I knit I alternately 4 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 7, purl 7, knit 7, purl 3, knit l, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1 knit I alternately to end of row. 37th row — purl i knit i alterna- tely 4 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, make i, knit I, make i, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl I alternately to end of row. 38th row — knit i purl i alterna- tely 4 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 8, purl 9, knit 8, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 39th row — purl I knit i alternately 4 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 8, knit 2 together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 8, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 40th row — purl i knit i alternately 3 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 9, purl 7, knit 9, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 41st row — knit i purl I alternately 3 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 9, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 9, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. 42nd row — purl I knit i alternately 3 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 9, purl 5, knit 9, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 43rd row — purl i knit I alternately 3 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 10, knit 2 together at the back, knit I, knit 2 together, purl 10, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 44th row — knit i purl i alternately 3 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 10, purl 3, knit 10, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of row. 45th row — purl i knit i alter- nately 3 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 10, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slipped st'tch over them, purl 10, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 46th row — purl 1 knit I alternately twice, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 23, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of row. 47th row — knit i purl i alternately twice, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 23, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl I alternately to end of row. 48th row — purl i knit i alter- nately twice, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 23, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. 49th row — purl I knit i alternately twice, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 6, make I, knit I, make I, purl 11, make I, knit I, make I, purl 6, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 50th row — knit I purl I alternately twice, knit 3, purl 46 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 6, purl 3, knit 11, purl 3, knit 6, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 51st row — purl I knit i alternately twice, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 6, Knit I, make I, knit i, make i, knit i, purl 11, knit i, make i, knit 1, make i, knit i, purl 6, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl I alternately to end of row. S2nd row — purl i, knit I, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, knit 11, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 53rd row— knit I, purl I, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl r, knit 3, purl 7, knit 2, make i, knitj i, make i, knit 2, purl 1 1, knit 2, make i knit I make i, knit 2, purl 7, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 54th row — purl i, knit i, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 7, purl 7, knit 11, purl 7, knit 7, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit i, purl 1. 55th row— purl i, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, make i, knit i, make I, knit 3, purl 11, knit 3, make I, knit i, make i, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl i. 56th row — knit I, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 8, purl 9, knit 11, purl 9, knit 8, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit I. 57th row — purl I, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 8, knit 2 together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 11, knit 2 together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 8, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl i, 58th row — in this row the decrease of the diamond is commenced, purl I, knit I, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 7, purl 7, knit II, purl 7, knit 7, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit i, purl I. 59th row — knit l, purl i, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 7, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 1 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 7, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl i, knit i. 60th row — purl I, knit i, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, knit II, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit I, purl I. 6ist row — purl I knit I alternately twice, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 6, knit 2 together at the back, knit i, knit 2 to- gether, purl 1 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit i, knit 2 together, purl 6, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, 62nd row — knit I purl i alternately twice, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 5, purl 3, knit 11, purl 3, knit 6, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit I. 63rd row — purl I knit I al- ternately twice, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 6, slip i, knit 2 to- gether, and pass the slipped stitch over them, purl 11, slip I, knit 2 to- gether, pass the slipped stitch over them, purl 6, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i. 64th row — purl i knit I alternately twice, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 23, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of row. 65th row — knit I purl I alternately twice, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 23, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. 66th row — purl i knit i alternately twice, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 23, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit i alternately to end of row. 67th row — purl I knit i alternately 3 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 10, make i, knit I, make i, purl 10, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl 1 alternately to end of row. 6Sth row — knit I purl i alternately 3 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 10, purl 3, knit 10, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 69th row — purl I knit I alternately 3 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 10, knit i, make i, knit i, make 1, knit i, purl 10, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i to end of row. 70th row — purl I knit i alternately 3 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 9, purl 5, knit 9, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. 71st row — knit i purl i alter- nately 3 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 9, knit 2, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2, purl 9, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. 72nd row — purl i knit i alternately 3 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 9, purl 7, knit 9, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit i alternately to end of row. 73rd row — purl i knit i alternately 4 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, make i, knit I, make i, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit l purl i alternately to end of row. 74th row — knit i purl i alternately 4 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 8, purl 9, knit 8, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. 75th row — purl i knit I alternately 4 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 8, knit 2 together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 8, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 76th row — purl I knit i alternately 4 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 7, purl 7, knit 7, purl 3, knit l, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of row. 77th row — knit i purl i alter- nately 4 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 7, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 7, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i to end of row. 78th row — purl I knit I alternately 4 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. to end of row. 79th row — purl i knit i alternately 5 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 6, knit 2 together at the back, knit i, knit 2 together, purl 6, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. Soth row — knit I purl i alternately 5 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 6, purl 3, knit 6, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of the row. 8ist row — purl i, knit i alternately 5 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 6, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over them, purl 6, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alter- nately to end of the row. 82nd row — purl i knit I alternately 5 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 11, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of the row. 83rd row — knit i purl I alternately 5 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl il, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alter- nately to end of the row. 84th row — purl i knit i alternately 5 times, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 11, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit i alternately to end of the row. 85th row — purl I knit I alternately 6 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 9, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 86th row — knit i purl I alternately for 6 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 9, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit 1 alter- nately to end of the row. 87th row — purl i knit i alternately 6 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 9, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of row. 88th row — purl I knit I alter- nately 6 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 7, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 89th row — knit i purl i alternately for 6 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 7, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 90th row — purl i knit i alternately 6 times, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 7, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1 knit i alternately to end of the row. 91st row — purl I knit i alternately 7 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 5, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 92nd row — knit I purl I alternately 7 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 5, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of row. 93rd row — purl i knit i alternately 7 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 5, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl i alternately to end of row. 94th row — purl i knit I alternately 7 times, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 95th row — knit i purl i alternately 7 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit i purl I alternately to end of row. 96th row — purl i knit i alter- nately 7 times, purl l, knit 3, purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit i alternately to end of row. 97th row — purl 1 knit i alternately 8 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. 98th row — knit I purl I alternately 8 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit I, purl 3. knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. 99th row — purl i knit i alter- nately 8 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl i alternately to end of row. looth row — purl I knit I alternately 8 times, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 5, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. loist row — knit I purl I alternately 8 times, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 5, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of the row. 102nd row — purl I knit I alternately 8 times, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit r, purl 5, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl i knit I alternately to end of row. 103rd row — purl I knit I alternately 9 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of row. 104th row — knit I purl I alternately 9 times, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. 105th row — purl I knit i alternately 9 times, purl 3, knit 3, purl i, knit 3, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I purl I alternately to end of row. 106 th row — purl 1 knit I alternately 9 times, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of row. 107th row — knit I purl i alternately 9 times, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1 purl I alternately to end of row. lo8th row — purl i knit I alter- nately 9 times, purl I, knit 3, purl 3, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl 3, knit 3, purl I knit I alternately to end of the row. Now repeat from 1st row for the length required. These stripes are alternated with a feather pattern stripe, for which cast on 25 stitches. 1st row — purl 4, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i and knit I 7 times, make I, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, purl 4. 2nd row— knit 4, purl 2, purl 2 together at the back, purl 1 5, purl 2 together, purl 2, knit 4. 3rd row— purl 4, knit l, knit 2 together, knit 15, knit 2 together at the back, knit i, purl 4. 4th row— knit 4, purl 2 together at the back, purl 15, purl 2 together, knit 4. Repeat these 4 rows for the re- quired length ; the stripes, when finished, must be sewn together. EDGING FOR COUNTERPANE, To MATCH THE DIAMOND AND FEATHER STRIPE CENTRE. Cotton and needles to match should be used. Knit the long way, each pattern requires 21 stitches, ist row— purl 3, knit 3, knit 2 toge- ther, make I and knit i eight times, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, repeat. 2nd row— purl 2, purl 2 together at the back, purl 16, purl 2 together, purl 2, knit 3, repeat. 3rd row— purl 3, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 16, knit 2 together at the back, knit i, repeat. 4th row — purl 2 together at the back, purl 16, purl 2 together, knit 3, repeat. Now repeat each of these 4 rows 5 times more ; knit the 2 next rows plain, purl the 27th row, knit 28th row. For the 1st row of the raised pattern, make i, knit i, make I, purl 9, repeat from the beginning of the row. 2nd row — knit 9, purl 3, repeat to the end of the row. 3rd row— knit I, make i,knit I, make 1 ; knit I, purl 9, repeat. 4th row — knit 9, purl 5, repeat. 5th row — knit 2, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2, purl 9, repeat. 6th row — knit 9, purl 7, repeat. 7th row — knit 3, make i, knit i, make I, knit 3, purl 9, repeat. 8th row — knit 9, purl 9, repeat. 9th row — knit 2 together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 9, repeat, loth row— knit 9, purl 7, repeat, nth row— knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 9, repeat. 12th row — knit 9, purl 5, repeat. 13th row— knit 2 together at the back, knit i, knit 2 together, purl 9, repeat. 14th row — knit 9, purl 3, repeat. 15th row— slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over them, purl 9, repeat. i6th row — knit. 17th and 1 8th rows, purl. 19th row — make i, knit 2 together at the back, repeat throughout the row. 20th row — all purl. 21st row — knit i, *make i, knit 2 together at the back, repeat from *, end the row with knit I. 22nd row — all purl. 23rd row — make i, knit 2 together at the back, repeat throughout the row. 24th row — all purl. 25th and 26th rows — knit plain. 27th row — all purl. 28th row — knit plain and then cast off all the stitches. For the crochet edge, after the border is neatly joined at the comers, work i double crochet into each stitch. 2nd row — * i double crochet in double crochet over the centre stitch of the feather stripe, 4 chain, I treble back into the last made double crochet to form a picot, miss 3 stitches, double crochet into 4th; 4 chain, i treble back into double crochet to form picot, miss i stitch, double crochet into the next ; 4 chain, i treble and work into last double for picot, miss i stitch and double crochet into the next; 4 chain, i treble into last double crochet for picot, miss i stitch, double crochet into next, 4 chain, i treble back into double crochet for picot, miss 2 stitches and put double crochet into 3rd, this picot should be over the centre plain stripe of the scallop, 4 chain, picot as before, miss I, double crochet into next, 4 chain, picot again, miss i double crochet into next, 4 chain, picot as before, miss i, double crochet into next, 4 chain, picot, miss 3, and repeat from * all round the quilt. The number of stitches cast on must be divisible by 21 for the feather pattern, and by 9 for the raised leaf pattern above it. Therefore you must cast on lor 3, 6, 9, or 12 repeats of the feather pattern. Illustrating this principle, 3 times 21 are 63, and 7 times 9 are 63. If this is not kept in mind the pattern will be thrown out. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. FINE SHETLAND SHAWL. Materials : 65- oz. white Shetland wool, and steel needles No. 7. Cast on I stitch, ist row — make i, knit i. 2nd row — make i, purl 2. 3rd row — make I, knit the rest. 4th row — make i, purl the rest. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows till you have 1 50 stitches, then decrease by taking 2 together (still knitting alternate purl and plain rows), till you have only i stitch left. Cast off and begin the border. You have 150 stitches down one side, pick up these and 10 additional ones by picking up from the row below. 1st row — knit 2 in I, plain 4, * make i, knit 2 together, plain 23, make i, knit 2 together, repeat from *, and end row with plain 4. 2nd row- make 2 in I, rest of row plain. 3rd row — make 2 in 1, plain 3, * knit 2 together, make i, plain i, make i, knit 2 together, plain 20, repeat from *, and end row with knit 2 together, make i, plain i, make i, knit 2 together, plain 4. 4th row — same as 2nd. 5th row — make 2 in I, plain 3, * knit 2 together, make i, plain 3, make I, knit 2 together, plain 9, make I, plain 9, repeat from *, and end row with knit 2 together, make i, plain 3, make I, knit 2 together, plain 4. 6th row— same as 2nd. 7th row — make 2 in i, plain 2, knit 3 to- gether, make I, plain 2, make i, plain i, make i, plain 2, make i, * knit 3 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make i, plain i, make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, repeat from *, and end row with knit 3 together, make i, plain 2, make i, plain i, make I, plain 2, make i, knit 3 together, plain 3. 8th row — same as 2nd. 9th row — make 2 in i, plain I,* knit 3 together, make i, plain 4, make I, plain i,makei, plain 4, make i, knit 3 together, plain 3, knit 2 together, make i, plain i, make I, knit 2 together, plain 3, repeat from *, and end row with knit 3 together, plain 2. loth row — same as 2nd. nth row — make 2 in i, * knit 3 together, make 1, plain 6, make i, plain i, make i, plain 6, make i, knit 3 together, plain 2, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 2, repeat from *, and end row with knit 3 together, make I, plain 6, make i, plain i, make i, plain 6, make l, knit 3 together, plain I. 12th row — same as 2nd. 13th row — make 2 in I, * knit 3 together, make i, plain 7, make i, plain I, make i, plain 7, make i, knit 3 together, plain i, make I, knit 3 together, make i, plain i, repeat from *, and end row with knit 3 together, make i, plain 6, make i, plain 6, make i, knit 3 together, plain i. 14th row — same as 2nd. 15th — make 2 in i, plain 3, * make i, knit 3 together, plain 5, make 1, plain i, make i, plain 5, knit 3 together, make i, plain 3, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 3, repeat from *, and end row with make i, knit 3 together, plain 5, make i, plain i, make i, plain 5, knit 3 together, make i, plain 4. i6lh row — same as 2nd. 17th row — make 2 in i, plain 5, * make i, knit 3 together, plain 4, make i, plain i, make i, plain 4, knit 3 together, make i, plain 4, make i,knit 3 together, make i, plain 4, repeat from *, and end row with make I, knit 3 together, plain 4, make i, plain i, make i, plain 4, knit 3 together, plain 6. i8th row — same as 2nd. 19th row — make 2 in i, plain 7, * make i, knit 2 toge- ther, plain 9, knit 2 together, make I, plain 5, make I, knit 3 together, make i, plain 5, repeat from *, and end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain 9, knit 2 together, make i, plain 8. 20th row — same as 2nd. 2 1 St row — make 2 in I, plain 2, make I , knit 2 together, plain 5, * make i , knit 2 together, plain 7, knit 2 together, make I, plain 6, make t, knit 3 together, make i, plain 6, repeat from *, and end row with make I, knit 2 together, plain 7, knit 2 together, make i' plain 6, make i, plain 4. 22nd row — same as 2nd. 23rd row — make 2 in i, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain i, make I, knit 2 together, plain 5, *make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make I, plain 7, make i, knit 3 together, make I, plain 7, repeat from *, and end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make i, plain 5, knit 2 together, make I, plain I, make I, knit 2 together, plain 3. 24th row — same as 2nd. 2Sth row — make 2 in i, plain 3, make i, knit 3 together, make I, plain 7, * make l, knit 2 together, plain 3, knit 2 together, make i, plain 8, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 8, repeat from *, and end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain 3, knit 2 together, make I, plain 7, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 5. 26th row — same as 2nd. 27th row — make 2 in i, plain 4, make I, knit 3 together, make i, plain 8, * make i, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make I, plain 9, make i, knit 3 together, make I, plain 9, repeat from *, and end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain I, knit 2 together, make I, plain 8, make i, knit 3 together, make I, plain 6. 28th row — same as 2nd. 29th row — make 2 in i, plain 5, make I, knit 3 to- gether, make I, plain 9, * make i, knit 3 together, make I, plain 10, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 10, repeat from *, and end row with make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 9, make i, knit 3 together, plain 7. 30th row — same as 2nd. 31st row — make 2 in I, plain 7, make i, knit 3 together, make i, * plain 10, knit 3 together, make i, plain 11, make i, knit 3 together, make i, repeat from *, and end row with plain 8. 32nd row — same as 2nd. 33rd row — make 2 in I, plain 9, make i, knit 3 together, make I, * plain 23, make i, knit 3 together, make I, repeat from *, and end row with plain 10. 34th row — same as 2nd. SECOND PART OF BORDER. 1st row — make 2 in i, make I, plain 9, make i, knit 3 together, make I, * plain lo, knit 2 together, make i, plain 11, make i, knit 3 together, make i, repeat from *, and end row with plain 9, make I, plain i. 2nd row — make 2 in i, plain rest of row. 3rd row — make 2 in i, plain 11, make I, knit 3 together, make I, * plain 23, make i, knit 3 together, make i, repeat from *, end row with plain 11. 4th row— make 2 in i, purl I, make i, purl I, make i, purl i, plain 20, * purl i, make i, purl 3 together, make I, purl I, plain 21,'repeat from *, end row with purl i, make I, purl 2 together, make I, purl i. 5th row — make 2 in I, plain 13, * make i, knit 3 together, make I, plain 23, repeat from *, end row with make I, knit 3 together, make I, plain 15. 6th row — make 2 in I, plain I, * purl 5, plain 21, repeat from *, end row with purl 5, plain i. 7th row — make 2 in I, plain I, make I, plain 2, knit 2 together, make i, plain 9, make i, knit 3 together, make i, * plain 9, make i, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain 9, make i, knit 3 together, make I, repeat from *, end row with plain 9, make I, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain 2. 8th row — make 2 in I,* purl 2, make i, purl 3 together, make i, purl 2, plain 19, re- peat from *, end row with purl 2, make i, purl 3 together, make I, purl 2, plain I. 9th row — make 2 in i, plain 16, * make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 23, repeat from *, end row with make i, knit 3 together, make I, plain 17. loth row — make 2 in I, * purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, purl 17, repeat from *, end row with purl i, make i, purl 2 together, make I, purl I, plain 2. nth row — make 2 in i, plain 3, * make I, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain 9, make I, knit 3 together, make i, plain 9, repeat from *, end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain 4. 12th row — make 2 in I, plain 2, * purl 2, make i, purl 3 together, make 1, purl 2, plain 19, repeat from *, end row with purl 2, make I, purl 3 together, make i, purl 2, plain 4. 13th row — make 2 in I, plain 2, * make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make i, plain 7, make I, knit 3 together, make i, plain 7, repeat from *, end row with make I, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make i, plain 3, 1 4th row— make 2 in i, plain I, * purl 2, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make I, purl 2, plain 15, repeat from *, end row with purl 2, make 1, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make i, purl 2, plain 3. 15th row — make 2 in I, plain 5, * make I, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain 9, make I, knit 3 together, make i, plain 9, repeat from *, end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain I, knit 2 together, make i, plain 6. l6th row— make 2 in i, plain i, * purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 2, make i, purl 3 together, make i, purl 2, purl 2 together, make I, purl I, plain 13, repeat from *, end row with purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 2, make i, purl 3 together, make I, purl 2, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, plain 3. 17th row— make 2 in i, plain 4, * make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make i, plain 7, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 7, repeat from *, end row with make I, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make i, plain 5. i8th row — make 2 in i, plain-3, * purl 2, make I, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make I, purl 2, plain 15, repeat from *, end row with purl 2, make* i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. make I, purl 2, plain 5. 19th row— make 2 in i, plain 2, * make i, knit 2 together, plain 2, make i, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain 2, knit 2 together, make i, plain 5, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 5, repeat from *, end row with make I, knit 2 together, plain 2, make i, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain 2, knit 2 together, make i, plain 4. 20th row— make 2 in i, plain 2, * purl 2, make I, purl 2 together, purl 2, make I, purl 3 together, make I, purl 2, purl 2 together, make i, purl 2, plain 11, repeat from *, end row with purl 2, make I, purl 2 together, purl 2, make I, purl 3 together, make i, purl 2, purl 2 together, make I, purl 2, plain 3. 21st row — make 2 in I, plain 5, * make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make I, plain 7, make I, knit 3 together, make I, plain 7, repeat from *, end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make i, plain 7. 22nd row — make 2 in i, plain 4, * purl 2, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make I, purl 2, plain 15, repeat from *, end row with purl 2, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make I, purl 2, plain 6. 23rd row — make 2 in i, plain 8, * make i, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make I, plain 9, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain g, repeat from *, end row with make I, knit 2 together, plain I, knit 2 together, make i, plain 10. 24th row — make 2 in i, plain 8, * purl 2, make I, purl 3 together, make i, purl 2, plain 19, repeat from *, and end row with purl 2, make i, purl 3 together, make 1, purl 2, plain 9. 25th row — make 2 in I, * plain 10, knit 2 together, make i, plain 11, make i, knit 3 together, make i, repeat from *, end row with plain 10, knit 2 together, make i, plain 13. 26th row — make 2 in i, plain 9,* purl I, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl i, plain 19, repeat from *, end row with purl i, purl 2 together, make I, purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl I, plain 9. 27th row — make 2 in I, plain 10, * knit 2 together, make i, plain 3, make i, knit 2 together, plain 8, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 8, repeat from *, and «nd row with knit 2 together, make i, plain 3, make 1, knit 2 together, plain 12. 28th row — make 2 in i, plain 8, * purl 2, purl 2 together, make i, purl 5, make I, purl 2 together, purl 2, plain 13, repeat from *, end row with purl 2, purl 2 together, make I, purl 5, make I, purl 2 together, purl 2, plain 7. 29th row — make 2 in I, plain 8, * knit 2 together, make i, plain 7, make i, knit 2 to- gether, plain 6, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 6, repeat from *, and end row with knit 2 together, make i, plain 7, make I, knit 2 together, plain 11. 30th row — make 2 in r, plain 9, * purl 2 together, make i, purl 9, make i, purl 2 together, plain 13, repeat from *, end row with purl 2 together, make i, purl y, make i, purl 2 together, plain 9. 31st row — make 2 in I, plain 3, make i, knit 2 together, plain 2, * knit 2 together, make i, plain 5, make i, knit 2 together, plain 4, make i, knit 2 together, plain 4, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 4, repeat from *, end row with knit 2 together, make i, plain 5, make i, knit 2 together, plain 4, make i, knit 2 together, plain 2, knit 2 together, make i, plain 5. 32nd row — make 2 in i, plain 9, * purl 13, plain 13, repeat from *, end row with purl 13, plain 10. 33rd row — make 2 in i, plain 2, knit 2 together, make i, plain i, make i, knit 2 together, plain 2, * make I, knit 2 together, plain 9, knit 2 together, make I, plain 5, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 5, repeat from *, end row with make I, knit 2 together, plain 9, knit 2 together, make i, plain 2, knit 2 together, make i, plain i, make i, knit 2 together, plain 4. 34th row— make 2 in I, plain 10, * purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 7, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, plain 13, repeat from *, end row with purl I, make i, purl 2 together, purl 5, purl 2 together, make I, purl I, plain II. 35th row — make 2 in i, plain 4, make I, knit 3 together, make i, plain 5, * make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make i, plain 7, make I, knit 3 together, make i, plain 7, repeat from *, end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain 5, knit 2 together, make I, plain 5, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 6. 36th row — make 2 in i, plain 13, * purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make i, purl I, plain 7, repeat from * end row with purl i, make i, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make i, purl i, plain 14. 37th row — make 2 in i, plain 5, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 7, * make i, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 together, make i, plain 9, make i, knit 3 together, make i, plain 9, repeat from * end row with make i, knit 2 together, plain i, knit 2 to- gether, make i, plain 7, make 1, knit 3 together, make I, plain 7. 38tli row— make 2 in i, plain i6, * purl i, make i, purl 3 together, make I, purl I, plain 21, repeat from *, end row with purl i, make i, purl 3 together, make i, purl I, plain 17. 39th row— knit a plain row and cast off loosely. Having done one side of the border, lift up 160 stitches on next side of middle and knit same as last side, but instead of making 2 stitches in ist stitch of every row lift i thread from the finished border, which will make the extra stitch required and join the corner at the same time. When the four sides of border are finished commence the lace for shawl. Cast on 22 stitches. ist row— knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 2 together. plain 2, make i, plain i, make i, plain 2, knit 2 together, purl i, plain I, make 2, knit 2 together, make 2, plain 2. 2nd row — plain 3, purl I, plain 2, purl i, plain 2, purl 2 together, purl i, make I, purl 3, make i, purl i, purl 2 together, plain 4, make I, knit 2 together, plain i. 3rd row — plain 3, make i, knit 2 together, plain I, purl I, knit 2 together, make I, plain 5, make i, knit 2 together, purl I, plain 8. 4th row — cast off 3 stitches, plain 4, purl 2 together, make l, purl 7, make i, purl 2 together, plain 3, make I, knit 2 together, plain i. 5th row — plain 3, make i, knit 2 together, plain 2, make I, plain 2, knit 2 together, purl I, knit 2 together, plain 2, make i, plain 2, make 2, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2. 6th row — plain 3, purl i, plain 2, purl i, plain i, purl 2, make i, purl I, purl 2 together, plain i, purl 2 together, purl i, make i, purl 2, plain 3, make i, knit 2 together, plain i. 7th row — plain 3, make I, knit 2 together, plain 4, make i, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2 together, make i, plain IL Sth row — cast off 3 stitches, plain 4, purl 4, make i, purl 3 together, make i, purl 4, plain 3, make i, knit 2 together, plain i. Repeat the above rows till you have enough to go round the shawl. DRAWERS FOR LADIES. These beautiful and most comfortable drawers are knit- ted of soft 4-ply fingering wool. No lady could do better than commence a pair at this season, unless she is already provided with woven ones. The model is worked in a very simple dice pattern, and trimmed round the bottom of the leg with a knitted edging of easy design. Any other small fancy pattern may be substituted if desired, and even plain garter stitch will serve the purpose admirably, and will be more quickly and easily executed. As regards wear and economy, hand knit- ting is incalculably superior to woven or machine made goods, the best of which do not last as long. The wool for these drawers can be procured for the triflingsum of 2s. Materials required: 8 ozs. of white wool, 2 long knitting needles. No. 9, enough calico or white linen to make a waistband 2 inches wide, I linen button. If the drawers are made knicker- bocker shape, li yards of inch wide white ribbon will be re- quired to draw them into shape at the knees. Directions for dice pattern. 1st row— knit 4, purl 4 alternately. 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows — rib in the same way as the ist row. 5th row — purl 4, knit 4 alternately. 6th, 7th, and Sth rows — rib in the same way as the 5th row ; this completes I pattern. Each leg of the drawers is knitted in a separate piece. Both are exactly alike, as there is no right or wrong side in the work, the dice pattern being reversible. This remark should apply to any pattern chosen instead of this one until the worker is familiar with the directions for shaping the gar- ment. The drawers are commenced at the back of the waist. Cast on 4 stitches, ist row— knit 4, cast on 4. 2nd row — knit 4, purl 4. 3rd row— knit 4, purl 4, cast on 4. 4th row— purl 4, knit 4, pmi 4. 5th row— purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, cast on 4. 6th row— purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4. 7th row— purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, cast on 4. 8th row— knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4. Continue increasing thus, by casting on 4 stitches at the end of ever)' alternate row, until there are 72 stitches on the needles, the directions given for commencing the 8 rows already worked will apply to all the rows during the increasing, though the number of stitches on the needle will, of course, be greater. When the 72 stitches are on the needle, cast on 75 more stitches (where the others were cast on) for the front of leg and work all across — 147 stitches — commencing the ist long row by purling 4 stitches, continuing dice pattern for 87 more rows without increasing any more. The S7th long row should end in front at the short edge of drawers. Continue dice pattern. 8Sth row— work 3 stitches, make i by lifting a loop from the row below, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. , and working it as a stitch, finish row. When working the row after an increase or decrease, care must be taken not to mar the pattern. The unavoidable alteration should be made at the extreme edge, where it will not be very apparent. 89th, 90th, and 91st rows — work all across without increasing ; repeat from the 88th row five times more. 112th row — work 3 stitches, decrease by knitting or purling 2 together, according to the pattern ; work till 5 stitches remain, de- crease, work 3. 1 13th, 1 14th, and 115th rows — work without decreas- ing. Repeat from I i2th row 25 times more. Cast off. Work second leg in the same way. Sew them up from where the casting off was made to the 112th row. Now commence the edging for trimming by casting on 12 stitches with the same wool and needles, istrow — knit 3, put the wool round the needle, knit 2 together, put the wool over again, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit i. 2nd row — knit plain . 3rd row — knit 3, put the wool over, knit 2 together, knit i, put over wool, knit 2 together, put over wool, knit 2 together, put over wool, knit 2 together, put over wool, knit I. 4th row — knit plain. 5th row — knit 3, put over wool, knit 2 together, knit 2, put over wool, knit 2 together, put over wool, knit 2 together, put over wool, knit 2 together, put over wool, knit i. 6th rov/ — knit plain. 7th row — knit 3, put the wool over, knit 2 together, knit 3, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit I. 8th row — knit plain, gth row — knit 3, put the wool over, knit 2 together, knit 4, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit i. loth row— knit plain, i ith row — knit 3, put the wool over, knit 2 together, knit 5, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit 2 together, put the wool over, knit i. 12th row — knit plain. 13th row — knit plain. 14th row — knit 3, put the wool over, knit 2 together, knit plain to the end of the row. 15th row — cast off 6 stitches, knit to the end of row. Repeat from ist row 11 times more, cast off. This completes the trimming for one leg; knit a second piece the same, and sew them evenly to the bottom of drawers, working on the wrong side. If knickerbockers are preferred to the plain shape, a string is to be passed in and out of the row of holes near the top of the edging and drawn in to the required width, either ribbon, tape, or a crocheted woollen string may be used for the purpose. This string should be taken out when the drawers are being washed to enable the laundress to pull them out properly when they are drying, to prevent the work shrinking. The laundress should be desired to pull out the drawers in width, not lengthways, doing so would quite spoil the shape. Make a band to fit the wearer of either linen or calico, 2 inches wide, and sew the drawers to it. Lap i leg 2 inches over the other in front, before sewing to the band. Work a button-hole and sew on a button at the back of the band and the drawers will be ready for use. When the edging is bemg sewn to the drawers, if the worker allows 4 ribs ( 8 rows ) of the garter stitch at the edge of the trimming to every 5 cast off stitches at the knee of the drawers, the work will be kept even; without some such guide it is troublesome to do so. VEST FOR INFANT. Nothing could be more simple than the formation of this little vest. It is worked almost entirely in garter stitch, edged with an easy crochet trimming. The wool used is the best white merino. The needles are No. 9, two are required ; long bone ones are the pleasantest to work with. The vest consists of two sleeves, a back and a front piece, all of which are worked in one piece to avoid joins. Commence with the first sleeve by casting on 48 stitches. Knit 20 rows plain. Cast on 46 stitches more for the front piece. 2ist row — knit 94 stitches; cast on 46 for the back piece. Knit 12 plain rows all across. 34th row — knit 64 stitches, cast off 12, knit 50 64 stitches. 35th row — knit 64 stitches ; turn back. Knit 75 rows same as 35th row. This completes the front piece. Return now to the 64 stitches which were cast on for the back. Knit 76 rows on them, joining wool at the bottom of back, iiith row — knit 64 stitches (beginnmg at the bottom of the back piece), cast on 12 stitches for the second shoulder, knit 64 stitches along the front piece. Knit 12 plain rows all across. There should be 140 stitches on the needle. 124th row — cast off 46 stitches, knit 48, cast off 46 stitches. Break off the wool, leaving enough to sew up the side and sleeve of vest. Join on the wool at the beginning of the 48 stitches for the sleeve. Knit 20 plain rows, cast off. Sew up both sides and sleeves of the vest on the wrong side. Turn the right side out and trim the neck with the following edging, worked with the same wool and a fine bone crochet hook, ist row — * i treble into edge of neck, miss one row of knitting, I chain ; repeat from* all round, join beginning and end of row with a single stitch. 2nd row — * 4 treble stitches over first chain stitch of first row, i double over next chain stitch ; repeat from * all round, join begin- ning and end of row with a single stitch. Break off" the wool and fasten off securely. Work round the sleeves in the same way. Run a white or coloured libbon through the holes along neck and sleeves. Fasten the ends of the ribbon with small neat bows, or cord and tassels may be used. Work the second row of crochet round the bottom of the vest, which will then be finished. Crochet. CLOUD FOR EVENING WEAR. ^i4 Materials required for a cloud I ^ yards long will be as follows : 5 ozs. of ivory- white Shetland wool, and I 02. of black, bone hook, No. 4. Commence with white, and work a length ofchainloosely, about 110 stitches ; work 6 treble stitches (each stitch must be drawn out about an inch) into the 9th stitch of the foundation chain, this will form a shell or fan. Now pass over 5 chain stitches, and into the 6th stitch work 6 treble stitches, no chain between them ; continue to work in same way 11 more shells, making 13 altogether, to the end of row. Turn with 8 chain, and work 6 treble stitches between the shells of previous row, viz., by working the 6 treble into the centre of the founda- tion chain over the next shell ; repeat in same way to the end of row, making 13 shells, and finish every row by i double crochet into end of the 8th chain you turn with, this is to keep the rows firm. Turn with 8 chain, and work a shell into the centre of shell in ist row ; always work the shells into the 2nd row down, and pass over those made in the last row ; now work 6 rows like this, that is, from the beginning. Fasten on black wool and work 6 rows in same way, 4 more rows in white, 4 rows black, 4 rows white, 2 rows black, which will form 3 black stripes across the end, fasten on white, and keep on working in just the same way until the cloud measures i yard and 12 inches long, that is, if your end measures 6 inches, if not, you must work more rows so that you get it the right length. Now begin for other end by working 2 rows in black, 4 rows white, 4 rows black, 4 rows white, 6 rows black, 6 rows white. Fasten off. Make 2 large tassels of white Shetland, cut i oz. into 3 parts, divide in half, and tie with 4 strands of wool in centre, put your crochet hook at back. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, double the wool over it, and wind round, draw the hook through, and work 3 chain ; leave a long end to draw up the cloud with, tie round again with black, and an inch lower down tie it with 4 strands of black, make another to match, and cut them very evenly with sharp scissors, draw up the ends of cloud, and sew the tassels on very securely. NECK HANDKERCHIEF. For a square of 22 inches you will require li pzs. of black Shet- land wool, and J an oz. of old gold ; bone hook. No. 6 or 7. Com- mence with black wool, and work 5 chain, unite by aslipstitch, and into this ring of chain work 3 treble, I chain, 3 treble, i chain again ; repeat until you haveS holes, join. 2nd row — 3 trebles into 1st hole; I chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into 2nd hole for first corner; i chain, 3 treble into 3rd hole, i chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into 4th hole for second corner, I chain, 3 treble into 5th hole, i chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into 6th hole for 3rd comer ; I chain, 3 treble into 7th hole, I chain, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into 8th hole for 4th and last corner — join. Work 14 rows in this way, and increase each corner by working 3 chain instead of 2 as in the previous row. 15th row — with gold, work 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into every hole all round, increasing at the corners by working 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble, I chain. l6th row — same. 17th row — same, but no increasing at the corners with the exception of working 3 chain into the centre. iSth row — with black in the same way as 1st row of gold, and increase at the corners. 19th row — same. 20th row — same. 21st row — for the edge, work* 3 chain, i treble into ist hole, 5 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain stitch to form a picot, I treble; make 5 of these picots into the same hole; 3 chain, I double crochet into the ne.\t hole ; repeat in this way all round the square, increasing at each corner by working 7 picots into the corner hole instead of 5. A very pretty variation can be made, by using pompadour wool or ice knitting silk in place of the gold, and if wanted very fanciful, an edge of the same can be added. TUFTED TAM O' SHANTER. For Girl of 12. 2 ozs. of Berlin finger- ing wool and a crochet hook, No. 9, will be re- quired. Begin with 4 chain ; work single stitch into 1st stitch. The right side of the work will form the inside of the cap. I double into next .stitch. To form a tuft put the needle into next chain stitch, work 4 chain, draw last chain stitch through the loop on the needle, work I double into the same stitch in which you made the tuft, 1 double into next chain stitch. Always have i separate double stitch between the tufts. Increase by working 2 stitches into I, so that your work will be quite flat. Continue in this way till you have 21 rows, then work 2 rows without increasing. Your work should now measure 10 inches in diameter. Now commence underneath part of the cap by decreasing every 9th stitch in the next row. Decrease every 8th stitch in next row. In the remaining rows decrease every 7th stitch till the opening for the head fits the child for whom it is intended. For band — work 7 rounds of plain double crochet, catching up both sides of the stitch. The cap can now be lined with silk to match your wool, or left as it is. Make a pompon for the top by rolling the wool round a piece of cardboard and tying it firmly in its place. Trim it neatly with a pair of scissors. This pattern looks particularly well in knitting Arracene or any fancy wool. JACKET FOR INFANT. To WEAR OVER ROEE. Materials : — 2 oz. Shetland wool, white, pale pinkorblue, crochelneedle, No. 9 or 10. Make a chain of 60. 1st row — 1 treble, i chain, 2 treble into the 3rd loop, * miss 2 loops, 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble into the next loop, repeat from * to the end of the row, 20 picots in all. 2nd row — 3 chain to turn, I picot (that is, 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble) into the middle of the 1st picot in the previous row. You go on making a picot into the middle of every picot in the previous row, 20 picots in all. 3rd row — begin to shape the jacket, 2 plain picots, * i double picot, 2 plain picots, and repeat from * to the end, of the row. A double picot is made thus, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble i chain, 2 treble, all 'in i hole or picot in the previous row. You notice this gives you 2 holes to work in when you do the next row, so you get an extra picot, which makes your increase. 4th row — i picot over each single or plain picot, and 2 picots over each double picot in the previous row. You have now 26 picots. 5th row — 5 plain picots, i double picot, i plain picot, I double picot, 3 plain, i double picot, 2 plain picots, i double picot, 3 plain, i double, i plain, i double, 5 plain picots. This ends the row. 6th row — i picot over every plain picot, 2 plain picots over every double picot in the previous row. There will be 32 picots in all. 7th row — 6 plain, i double, i plain, i double, 4 plain, i double, 4 plain, i double, 4 plain, I double, i plain, i double, 6 plain picots. This uses up the 32 picots. 8th row — i plain picot over every picot in the previous row, 2 plain picots over ever>' double picot in the previous row. There will then be 38 picots. gth row — 3 plain picots, i double, 2 plain picots, I double, i plain, i double, I plain, I double, i plain, l double, 12 plain, i double, i plain, I double, I plain, i double, i plain, i double, 2 plain picots, i double, 3 plain picots. This ends the 38 picots. loth row — i plain picot over each plain picot in the previous row, and 2 plain picots over each double picot in the previous row. There will be 48 picots in this row. nth row — 4 plain, I double,2 plain, i double,; plain, i double, 4 plain, I double, 10 plain, I double, 4 plain, I double, 5 plain, i double, 2 plain, I double, 4 plain. 12th row — I plain picot over everj- picot in the previous row, 2 plain picots over every double picot in the previous row. This will give you 56 picots in all, and next row, you begin the sleeves. 13th row — ^you start as mentioned above with 56 picots, work 9 picots plain, miss 12 picots, and work across the back, 14 picots, miss 12 again, and work into each of the remaining 9. You have 32 picots. 14th row — ^just leave the sleeves as they are, or rather just leave the 2 holes you left for them, and finish the body of the jacket first, work a plain picot in each picot of the previous row, 32 in all. 15th row— 8 plain picots, I double picot, 14 plain, I double, 8 plain picots. l6th row — i plain picot into each of the plain picots in the previous row, and 2 plain picots into each double picot in the previous row. There will be 34 picots in this row. 17th, 1 8th, and iglh rows — plain picots all along on the 34 picots. 20th row — 9 plain, i double, 6 plain, 2 double, 6 plain, i double, 9 plain picots. 21st row — i plain picot in each single or plain picot, and 2 plain picots in each double picot in the previous row. There will be 38 picots. 22nd row — plain on the 38 picots. 23rd row— 10 plain, i double, 16 plain, i double, 10 plain picots. 24th, 25th, and 26th rows — plain picots on the 40 picots. For the border — 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble all into the hole in the middle of the 1st picot, * I chain, 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into the next hole or picot. Repeat from * to the end of the round, increasing the number of treble and chain at the corners, sufficiently to make it lie flat. 2nd round — i double crochet into the chain (or under it if you prefer), which is between the picots in the previous row. * i chain, 8 rather loose treble into the hole in the middle of the next picot in the previous row. i chain, i double crochet into or under the chain between the picot you have just worked into, and the next picot in the previous row. Repeat from *. Take this border right 51 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. round the jacket, including the neck, and also round the bottom of the sleeves, after you have completed the body 6f the sleeves. To work the sleeves, you have 12 picots which you missed and left undone as armholes. Fasten on the woolunder the arm, and work on them, ist up to the 8th rounds — plain picots on the picots in the previous round. 9th round — decrease under the arm, so you will have only 1 1 picots. The easiest way to decrease is to work half a picot in each of 2 picots in the previous row, i.e., you work 2 treble in I picot, I chain, 2 treble in the next picot in the previous row. loth round — plain on 1 1 picots ; you make i picot in this round in the middle of the 2 halves in the previous round, nth round — decrease twice under the arm so that you have only 9 picots in the next round. 12th and 13th rounds— plain on the 9 picots. Work the border round the bottom of each sleeve. Run a ribbon in round the wrist and round the neck to tie. If you prefer a longer sleeve, make another row or two before beginning to decrease, or if it is too long arrange so that you can turn the border part back as a. cuff. SHOULDER CAPE. This comfortable cape requires 6 oz. of Berlin fingering wool, and a pretty coarse bone or wooden crochet needle. It looks very nice in black wool, with the 13th, 14th, 17th and 1 8th rows done in a pretty shade of pale violet or some other suitable colour, or the cape may be worked entirely in one colour. Commence by working 51 chain. ist row— miss 3, 49 trebles. 2nd row — 3 chain, miss I, 13 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 9 trebles, 3 trebles into I, 9 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 14 trebles. 3rd row — 3 chain, miss i, 14 trebles, 3 trebles into I, 1 1 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 11 trebles, 3 trebles into I, 15 trebles. 4th row — 3 chain, miss i, 15 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 13 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 13 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 16 trebles. 5th row — 3 chain, miss i, 17 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 15 trebles, 3 trebles into I, 15 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 18 trebles. 6th row — 3 chain, miss I, 18 trebles, 3 trebles into I, 15 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 15 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 19 trebles. 7th row — 3 chain, miss i, i5 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 15 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 15 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 17 trebles. 8th row — 3 chain, miss I, 20 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 4 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 19 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 19 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 4 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 21 trebles. 9th row — 3 chain, miss I, 24 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 23 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 23 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 25 trebles. loth row — 3 chain, miss i, 24 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 26 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 26 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 25 trebles, nth row — 3 chain, miss I, 29 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 24 trebles, 3 trebles into i, 24 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 30 trebles. I2th row — 3 chain, miss i, 53 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 54 trebles; fasten off the wool. 13th row — turn the work and commence from the neck to work down one side, 23 trebles down side of the first 1 1 rows, 4 trebles into the 12th row, then 2 trebles into i at the corner, 24 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 24 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 24 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 24 trebles, 2 trebles into i at the corner ; up the 2nd side, 4 trebles into the 12th row, 23 trebles up the other 1 1 rows ; turn. 14th row — 3 chain, miss i, 23 trebles, 2 trebles into I, I treble, 2 trebles into i, i treble, 2 trebles into i, 26 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 6 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 26 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 4 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 26 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 6 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 26 trebles, 2 trebles into i, i treble, 2 trebles into i, 1 treble, 2 trebles into 1,24 trebles; turn. isth row — I chain, 8 52 doubles, 19 trebles, 2 trebles into i, i treble, 2 trebles into i, i treble, 2 trebles into I, 63 trebles, 2 trebles into i, i treble, 2 trebles into 1,1 treble, 2 trebles into i, 63 trebles, 2 trebles into I, i treble, 2 trebles into i, i treble, 2 trebles into 1, 19 trebles, 8 doubles; turn. i6th row— 6 doubles, 19 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into I, I treble, 2 trebles into 1,2 trebles, 2 trebles into 1,30 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 4 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 30 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 3 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 30 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 4 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 30 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into i, i treble, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 19 trebles, 6 doubles ; turn. 17th row— 6 doubles, 20 trebles, 2 trebles, into 1, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles 2 trebles into i, 147 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into I, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 2 trebles, 2 trebles into i, 20 trebles, 6 doubles, 3 chain. Work across the neck the following:— * 3 trebles, miss i, 2 trebles, miss i, repeat from * till you come to the opposite corner, then work 2 into i twice to turn the corner. iSthrow — work trebles all round 3 sides, increasing by working 2 trebles into I 3 times at the first corner, twice between the CO ner and the centre, 3 times at the centre, twice between the centre and the second corner, and 3 times at the corner. For the border — into the same stitch work i treble, i long stitch, i treble, and into the next stitch work i double ; repeat this all round, then fasten off the wool. Run a cord at the neck into the row next the border, and add a tassel to each end of the cord. JACKET IN RUSSIAN CROCHET. The following jacket is a rather larger size than the usual babies' jackets, and will be found large enough for a child of three years old. It is somewhat of the old-fashioned polka shape, and will form a very comfortable wrap for children at the seaside. The model was in white, edged with pale blue, but for more useful wear navy blue is very nice, edged with scarlet. It is made with Anda- lusian wool. Make a chain of 30 stitches and work a row of double crochet. Always make i chain to turn, and take the loop next to the 1st finger of the left hand. Increase at the beginning of the next row by making an extra chain stitch, work to the end of the row, and work back, increasing at the end of the row. Increase every row in this way, always at the same end, the other end being kept quite straight. Increase till you have 42 stitches, then decrease every row back to 30 stitches again. Then leave 14 stitches at the shoulder end and work on the other 16 for 6 rows. Then make 14 chain to>cor- respond to the other 14 left, and increase as before to 42 stitches. Work 24 rows plain. Then decrease to 30, leave 14 stitches as before, work 6 rows on the 16 stitches, make 14 chain, increase to 42 as before, and decrease to 30. Sew the shoulders together. For the basque, make along the straight edge 32 groups. Make 2 groups of 4 treble, i group of 6 treble and repeat all along the row. 2nd and 3rd rows — make 3 chain to turn and work groups of 4 treble all the way, i group into the centre of each previous 4 treble and 2 into each group of 6 treble. 4th row — 4 groups of 4 treble, i of 6 treble, 3 of 4 treble, I of 6 treble, 4 of 4 treble and I of 6 treble 5 times, 3 of 4 treble, I of 6 treble, 4 of 4 treble. Then work 2 rows of 4 treble all round the skirt, neck and fronts, putting 6 treble at the corners. For the edge in pale blue, work i row all round and a scallop row of 6 treble into every group of 4 treble, and i double crochet into each space between. For the sleeve — make a chain of 36 stitches and work 22 rows. Then decrease at the beginning of every row till you THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. have 22 stitches. Sew up the first 22 rows, and sew the decreased part into the armholes. Put I row and scallop of colour round the cuff. Make a chain and tassels of pale blue to run in the neck, turning down the coloured rows to form the collar. Make 2 fastenings down the front thus, 50 chain of blue, fold in half and sew on the first row, and again to the scallop, with a button at each sewing, sew another button to the opposite front, for the loop to fasten to. PETTICOAT, For Child 3 Years of Age. Materials : — 8 ozs. of best Berlin fingering, crochet hook No. 9 or 10, or a nice medium size (if you have no gauge to measure), 3 knitting needles, No. 10. Crochet 322 chain, unite in a round, ist round — I treble in each i of the next 13 loops, * miss I loop, l treble in each I of the next 13 loops ; repeat from * to end of round, id round — miss i loop, * i eble in each of the next 5 1 ops, 3 treble altogether in the ;xt loop, I treble in each of lie next 5 loops, miss 2 loops, id repeat from * to the end of le round. This will give you 5 sets of 13 treble to each set. I 1 working the 3 treble into the treble be sure to put the 3 treble into the centre one of the 13 treble in the previous round, the 15111 round — like the 2nd. 1 6th round — miss I loop as usual, l treble in the next loop ; now deciease a stitch by putting your needle in both the next and next loop but I together, and make i stitch through the 2 loops, i treble in each of the next 2 treble, 3 treble in the next loop, whidi should be tlie middle loop, i treble in each of the next 2 loops, I treble through both the ne.xt loop and the next loop but i, making but I treble over the 2 loops in the previous round. This decreases another stitch on the other side of the scallop, so that you will have 11 stitches to each scallop, instead of 13 stitches as before. 17th, i8th, 19th, and 20th rows — on the 11 stitches, without any decreasing, working back and forward for the placket hole. 21st row — decrease as directed by taking 2 loops together and working i treble through both loops, thus working i treble over 2, on each side of the centre 3 ; this reduces your stitches to 9 stitches in each scallop. 22nd, 23rd, and 24th rows — on the 9 stitches, without decreasing. 25th row — decrease in the manner described above on each side of the centre 3. This will give you 7 stitches to each scallop. 26th row — work straight along into every loop, i.e., you work i treble into each of the centre 3, as well as into each of the other loops. This makes a band, with the addition of the following rows. 27th row — double crochet into every loop, taking up both loops of the treble in the previous row. 28th row — double crochet through both loops of each double crochet in the previous row. For the bodice — there are 161 stitches in the whole width of the work. Take up 160 on your knitting needles, ist and 2nd rows — quite plain. 3rd row — ** 4 plain, * 2 purl, 2 plain, and repeat from * till you have worked altogether (including the 4 plain stitches) 76 stitches ; now knit 4 stitches plain, and repeat from **. This arrangement gives you 8 plain stitches in the middle of the front. This is to prevent the knitting compressing the child's chest at any time by the ribs shrinking together. 4th to 20th row — like the 3rd row. 21st row — you begin the arm-holes. You have 160 stitches in the whole width. For left back — work on 38 stitches in the way you have been doing, for 14 rows, then plain for 6 rows ; cast off all but 6 stitches. On them you knit 10 rows plain for a shoulder-strap ; cast off. For the front — cast off 4 stitches between the back and the front, then work on 76 stitches for the front, continuing the pattern for 14 rows to match the left back, then knit 6 plain rows. Now knit 10 rows on the 6 stitches at one end of the front for a shoulder-strap to correspond with the shoulder-strap at the left back. Cast ofif your 6 stitches. Then cast off the stitches across the front till you have only 6 stitches left at the other end. Work 10 rows plain, as before, on them, and cast off". In casting ofi" the neck and backs, it is as well to do it rather tightly. Now cast off" 4 stitches between the front and the remaining back, leaving you 38 stitches for the remaining back. This you work to match the first back you worked. Sew the shoulder-straps together in proper place, sew ribbon under the button side of the back, and make buttonholes to match the buttons (about 2 will be sufficient). You make buttonholes by drawing the wool on one side, and then overcasting the little hole with wool. Work a fancy little border round the bottom, neck, sleeves, down each back and round the placket hole. A scallop of 5 or 7 treble will look pretty. Run a string in the neck and one in the waist, and you will have a very pretty and warm petticoat, which is easily made. The 4 stitches you cast off" between the backs and front make the bottom of the armhole fit better. HEAD FLANNEL FOR INFANT. Materials : — Andalusian, .Shetland, Fingering, or Berlin wool, according to the season of the year in which you need the shawl, and a crochet hook to suit the wool, 2 yards ribbon, size about 27 inches square, colour white, pale blue or pink, or white centre, and blue or pink border. Make an even chain, not too tight, about 30 inches long, longer if you desire a larger shawl, I /dnHw^ugHnjonHmKn^^ wool over the needle, put 1 iffiBwIt Mi^ ^Pjpffi^B^^jffl^ ^ the needle in the 3rd loop, •■-?-• >Jrcr*~'' -■ ^"^ "" rsit-Sj *drawthewool through, wool over again, and draw through 2 loops, wool over again, put the needle in the same chain as that in which you have just been working, draw the wool through, then wool over again, and draw through all 4 loops on your needle, make i chain to tighten the work, i chain, wool over the needle, put it in the 3rd chain, and repeat from * to the end of the chain, or until you have worked a sulftcient length for the side of the shawl. 2nd row — 3 or 4 chain to turn, wool over the needle, put the needle into the hole between the 1st bunch treble and the next, * draw the wool through, wool over the needle, draw through 2 loops, wool over needle, put your needle in the same hole, draw the wool through, then wool over the needle, and draw through all 4 loops on the needle, i tight chain to fasten it, i chain, wool over the needle, put your needle in the next hole, and repeat from * to the end of the row. Every succeeding row like the 2nd row till you have done a square. For the border — I double crochet into a bunch treble, * i treble, i chain, i treble, I chain, i treble, i chain, i treble, all into the next bunch treble, i.e., you have 4 treble with a chain between them, all in i bunch treble, I double crochet into the next bunch treble. Repeat from * to the end of the round. At the sides you must work so that the scallops lie rightly, and look like those at the ends. 2nd round — i double crochet into the centre of the ist scallop, I treble, i chain, i treble, I chain, i treble, i chain, i treble (that is, 4 treble in all), all into the double crochet between the ist scallop and the next, * i double crochet into the centre hole of the next scallop, i treble, i chain, I treble, i' chain, i treble, I chain, i treble into the next double crochet. Repeat from * This makes a pretty border, but in work- ing all the borders draw the trebles out rather long, and do it all rather loosely. This gives a lighter and prettier effect than if done tightly, and is softer for the baby ; make the bunch trebles as bunchy and light as possible. There is quite a difference produced in the appearance of the article by attention to regular and light even working. Run a ribbon round one comer to shape it to the head, and leave a bow at the back of the neck, with strings run in to tie under the chin. CATHERINE-WHEEL TURBAN. This pattern is excellent for a school or cricket cap, and can be made in any two colours. Our model was in crimson and grey. A skein of each colour will be required. L^se a fine bone crochet hook, and either Berlin fingering or Alliance wool. Throughout the cap catch up only the back half of the stitches in preceding row. Commence in the centre of the crown and with the ci imson wool make a loop into which work S doubles. 2nd row — 2 doubles into each stitch of preceding row. 53 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 3rd row—* I double into next stitch, 2 doubles into next stitch; repeat from * all round. 4th row—* i double into next stitch, i double into next stitch, 2 doubles into next stitch ; repeat from * all round. 5th row—* i double into next stitch 3 times, 2 doubles into next stitch ; repeat from * all round. In each row there should be 8 increasings, and the increasing should always come on the 2nd stitch of the increasing of preceding row. There should be I additional stitch between the increasings in each row. This causes them to be in the form of a catherine-wheel. Continue to work with the crimson wool till you have 9 rows ; join on the grey wool and continue in the same way till the crown of the cap seems large enough. The crown should measure about 8 inches in diameter. When it is the proper size work 3 rows quite plain. Then take 2 stitches together over each point where you increased. This will decrease 8 stitchej in the row. Work 6 more plain rows. Take the crimson wool and work i row. Turn and for rim work 8 rows quite plain, still catching up only the back half of stitch ; fasten off. Take a large flat button and cover it by making a loop of grey wool and work 4 doubles into it. Work doubles round and round, decreasing to make it fit the button. Lay the crochet on the button and work round and round, decreasing rapidly. Now sew the button on centre of the cap. This cap fits a boy of 7. NIGHTCAP. Materials required: 2 oz. of Strutt's knitt- ing cotton. No. 10, 4 thread, a piece of me- dium width tape, steel crochet hook No. i J. Commence by work- ing 8 chain, and unite by a slipstitch, work 36 treble into this ring of chain, istrow — 5 chain, i treble into the 2nd treble stitch, 2 chain, I treble, missing i treble, repeat all round, until you have 18 holes. 2nd row — draw up cotton and work 5 chain, put the cotton, or, rather, wind it, over the hook 3 times, and draw through 2 loops at a time as in treble, wind the cotton over 3 times again, and work in same way into the same hole. This forms a group of 3 cable stitches. Re- peat the 3 cable stit ches and 2 chain into every hole. 3rd row — work 5 chain, I treble into the 2nd cable stitch, 2 chain, 1 treble into the last cable stitch, 2 chain into ist of the next set of cable, repeat all round until you have 54 holes. 4 throw — 5 chain, I treble into 1st hole, 2 chain, I treble into every hole. 5th row — the same. 6th row — 5 chain, 2 cable stitches into 1st hole, 2 chain, 3 cable stitches into 3rd hole, that is, miss i hole between each set of cable stitches all round. 7th row — 5 chain, i treble into 2nd cable stitch, 2 chain, i treble into every cable stitch all round. 8th row — 5 chain, i treble into 1st hole, 2 chain, I treble into every hole. 9th row — the same, loth row — you begin now for the headpiece by working 27 sets of cable stitches, viz., 3 cable stitches, 2 chain into every other hole, nth row — turn with 5 chain, i treble over the 3 cable stitches (not t;i/o as before), 2 chain, i treble over hole of previous row, repeat to end of row. 12th row— turn with 5 chain, I treble into ist hole, 2 chain, i treble into all the others to end of row. 13th row — the same. 14th row — turn with 5 chain, and work 27 sets of cable stitches into every other hole. 15th row — turn with 5 chain, I treble into the ist cable stitch, 2 chain, i treble into last, repeat to end of row. l6th row — turn with 5 chain, i treble into ist hole, 2 chain, i treble into every hole to end of row. 17th row — the same. l8th row — the same. 19th row — the same. 20th row — the same. 21st row — the same; this finishes the headpiece. Now for the curtain, turn round to the back with 5 chain, i treble into Ist 54 hole, 2 chain, I treble into each hole, 2 holes into the rows of cable stitch, do this all along the bottom of headpiece and crown. 2nd row — turn with 5 chain, I treb'e into ist hole, 2 chain, i treble into every hole, and increase at centre of back by working 2 chain, I treble, 3 chain, i treble into the 26th hole of previous row. 3rd row — turn with 5 chain, 2 cable stitches into ist hole, 2 chain, 3 cable stitches into 3rd hole, work all along in same way, missing i hole between each set of cable until you get to the 25th hole, then work 2 chain, 3 cable stitches into each of the 25th, 26th and 27th holes, this keeps it rounded at the back; now work 2 chain, 3 cable stitches into every other hole to end of row. You now work on the wrong side of headpiece, in the last row of holes, commencing at the beginning of curtain with 5 chain, 2 cable stitches into the ist hole, 2 chain, 3 cable stitches into every other hole until you have 28 sets of cable ; break off. Fasten on at the end you began and work a picot edge, 8 chain, draw the last chain stitch into the 3rd chain, i treble into the hole between the cable stitches, i treble, 5 chain, draw the 5th into the 1st chain stitch to form another picot, i treble into same stitch (or hole); continue to end of row. This is to form a border to fall over the headpiece. Work a picot edge to match all round on the right side of front and curtain, increase at the corners by working 3 holes into one. This finishes the cap ready for the strings, which are made as follows — work 9 chain, turn and work I treble into every stitch of the foundation chain, making 6 altogether, turn with 4 chain and work i treble stitch between every treble of previous row. Work in this way for 41 rows, and finish off with a picot edge at the bottom to match that on cap. Work 2 pieces alike and sew them on to the wrong side at each ear, which will fasten the border down ; run a piece of tape in and out of all the holes at back, tie in a bow so as to draw it up to the size required, sew each end of tape over on the wrong side to keep it firm. If a smaller cap is wished for, the same directions worked in 14 cotton and No. i hook to correspond will do very nicely. PETTICOAT. These directions are extremely simple, and any sized petticoat can be made from them. Our model measured i yard from the top of the band to the bottom of the petticoat, and was made of a pretty shade of crimson petticoat wool. One pound and a half would be required. Take a medium bone crochet needle and make a chain that will reach round the waist. For band — work double crochet into each chain stitch, turn and work backwards and for- wards till you have a depth of about 7 inches. Always catch up both sides of stitches. In each row increase a stitch on each side of the middle of the front and a stitch at the centre of each side over the hips. When increasing you must use -your own judgment as to where the extra stitch must be made, but be sure always to increase 4 stitches in each row. When you have a depth of 7 inches, join the 2 ends together by a single stitch, and do a row of doubles all round *, miss 2 doubles and work 5 trebles into the next stitch, miss 2 doubles and work i double into next stitch, repeat from * all round. + In next row, work 5 trebles into each double of last row and i double into the centre of each cluster of 5 trebles of last row. Repeat from t till you have a depth of 5 inches, measuring from the last row of the band. Continue in the same way, only put 7 trebles into each cluster instead of 5 till you have 8 inches more in depth. Then put 9 trebles into each cluster till you have 8 inches more, put 1 1 trebles into each cluster till your entire petticoat measures about 35 inches. For border you can either put clusters of 13 trebles or work any pretty edge you admire. The following looks well : i .treble into double of last row t, i treble into 3rd treble of next cluster *, 3 chain, I single into ist of 3 chain, i treble into next treble ; repeat from* 4 times more, i treble into next double ; repeat from t all round. For lap — work a row of doubles along the end of band; turn, and for buttonholes miss 3 stitches and work 3 chain, i double into next stitch. About 3 will be sufficient ; work a few more rows of doubles and sew the end of lap neatly on right side of petticoat. SIMPLE EDGING. Make 10 chain, i treble j into the 7th from needle. 1 2 chain 1 treble into the 10th chain. Turn * 2 [double crochet in the first hole, 4 in the next. Turn, 16 chain I treble into the last of the 4 double. 2 chain i treble into the 2nd of the 2 double. Repeat from * for length required. For the edging, * 2 double crochet into the large hole, 5 chain 2 double in the same hole, 1; chain 2 double in the same. Repeat from * in every hole. !»>( TH£ FANCV WORK-BASKET. MAT FOR BREAD TRAY. Coats' crochet cotton No. 24 and steel crochet hook ; the size depends upon the worker, as it must not be done slack, or it will spoil the pattern. This mat without the word Bread will suit many other purposes, ist row — make a chain of 261 stitches, turn back, work i treble, 2 chain, i treble into 3rd loop, and repeat; there must be 87 squares. 2nd and 3rd rows — 1 treble upon treble, 2 chain, and repeat; this forms 3 rows of squares. 4th row — 3 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 24 trebles, 10 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 12 trebles, 5 squares, 9 trebles, 5 squares, 12 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 10 squares, 24 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares. 5th row — 3 squares, 6 trebles, i square, g trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 7 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 18 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 18 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 7 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trelDles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 3 squares. 6th row — 5 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 7 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 12 trebles, 7 squares, 12 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 7 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 5 squares. 7th row — 5 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 6 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 6 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 3squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares. 8th row — 4 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 treliles, 1 square, 15 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 5 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 15 trebles, 2 squares, 5 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 15 trebles, 1 square, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. 9th row — 4 squares, 3 trebles, 10 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 6 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, I square, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 6 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 10 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. loth row — 4 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 8 squares, 3 trebles, I square, 9 trebles, 6 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 6 squares, 9 trebles, 1 square, 3 trebles, 8 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, nth row — 4 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 12 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 1 square, 3 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 12 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. 12th row — 4 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 12 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 18 trebles, 5 squares, 9 trebles, 5 squares, 9 trebles, 5 squares, 18 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 12 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares. i3throw^5 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 21 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 7 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 7 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 21 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares. 14th row — 5 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 15 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 8 squares, g treljles, 2 squares, 12 trebles. 2 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 12 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 8 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 15 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares. 15th row — 6 squares, 3 trebles, 10 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 12 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 1 square, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 12 trebles, 4 s(|uares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 10 squares, 3 trebles, 6 squares. 1 6th row — 7 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles 4 squares, 12 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 39 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 12 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 3 trebles, 7 squares. I7ih row — 8 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 1 square, 6 trebles, 17 squares, 6 trebles, I square, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 8 squares. l8th row — 3 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 12 trebles, 4 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 12 trebles, 6 squares, 6 trebles, I square, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 6 squares, 12 trebles, 2 squares, g trebles, 4 squares, 12 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, igth row — 3 squares, 9 trebles, 5 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 9 trebles, 1 square, 18 trebles, 10 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 12 trebles, l square, 12 trebles, 1 square, 6 trebles, 10 squares, 18 trebles, i square, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares, g trebles, 3 squares. 20th row — 5 squares, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, I square, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 9 trebles, 15 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 15 squares, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 1 square, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 9 trebles, 5 squares. 21st row — 5 squares, 15 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 61 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, I5trebles, 5 squares. 22ndrow — 5squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 55 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares. 23rd row — 4 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 55 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. 24th row — 4 scjuares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 12 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 12 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 9 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 12 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 12 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. 25th row— 4 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 8 squares, 3 trebles, 1 square, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 1 square, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, I square, 1 8 trebles, 10 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 3 squares, g trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. 26th row — 4 squares, 6 trebles, 6 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 7 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 12 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 3 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, I square, 3 trebles, 10 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 6 squares, 5 trebles, 4 squares. 27th row — 5 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 12 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, I square, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 15 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 treble;, 5 squares. 28th row — 4 squares, 18 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 8 squares, 3 trebles, I square, 3 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, I square, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares, 3 trebles, I square, 6 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, g squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 18 trebles, 4 squares. 291 h row — 3 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares, 12 trebles, 7 squares, 3 trebles, 26 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, I square, 3 trebles, i square, 9 trebles, 9 squares, 12 trebles, 5 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares. 30th row — 4 squares, 1 8 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 9 squares, 3 trebles, 27 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 11 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 18 trebles, 4 squares. 31st row — 5 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 14 squares, 3 trebles, 25 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 15 squares, 6 trebles, 3 squares, 6 trebles, 5 squares. 3:nd row — 4 squares, 6 trebles, 6 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 10 squares, 3 trebles, 24 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 1 square, 6 trebles, 10 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 6 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares. 33rd row — 4 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, g trebles, 3 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 6 trebles, 10 squares, 3 trebles, 24 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, I square, 3 trebles, 11 squares, 6 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 3 squares, g trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. 34th row — 4 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 12 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebks, ««*- . THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 38 squares, 12 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 10 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 12 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. 35th row — 4 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 6 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 37 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares, 12 trebles, 9 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 ti'ebles, 2 squares, 6 trebles, 4 squares, 3 trebles, 4 squares. 35th row — 5 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 1 square, 3 trebles, 55 squares, 3 trebles, i square, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 9 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 5 squares. 37th row — 5 squares, 15 trebles, 2 squares, 3 trebles, 61 squares, 3 trebles, 2 squares, 1 5 trebles, 5 squares. Now work as at 20th row, after- wards as 19th, 1 8th, 17th, and so on to the first row. For border, make 3 long or treble into a square, 3 chain, 3 long under same place, I chain, miss 1 open square, and repeat round ; at the corners put 3 lots of long with 3 chain between in place of the usual 2 lots. 2nd row— 3 long under the 3 chain of previous row, 3 chain, 3 long in same place, i chain, double crochet under the i chain, i chain, 3 long, and repeat all round. 3rd row — same as first. 4th row — same as the 2nd ; fasten off neatly. GARDEN AND TRAVELLING HOOD. Materials required : — I oz. white Andalusian wool, 2 J ozs. cardinal or blue single Berlin, 2 bone hooks No. 8 and 9, 24 yards of ribbon for bows and strings, li yards narrower, both to match the coloured wool used. Begin with the finest hook and white wool, make a chain of 5 and unite. Put the wool overyour hook and draw up a loop loosely. Repeat twice more, and unite by I chain. Work 9 of these tufts into the ring of chain, slip the wool up for next row, which is the 2nd, and work in the same way, but increase by working 2 tufts into hole, or between each tuft of last row. 3rd row — work i tuft between the tuft of last row, 2 tufts into the next, i into the next, and finish the row in same way (of course join- ing each row, as this is for the crown). 4th row — work in the same way, but with- out any increasing. 5th row — ncrease in every other hole by working 2 tufts into I. 6th row — plain, without any increasing. 7th row — 4 plain, 2 tufts into the 5th hole, 4 plain again — that is i tuft into i hole ; repeat to end of row. 8th row — no increasing. 9th row— which is to begin the head-piece or front, work i tuft into every hole for 40 times, leave the rest unworked, and work these 40 lufts backwards and forwards for 8 rows, no increasing, then work i row all round back, only increasing at centre hole of the crown for curtain, and at each corner by working i tuft, 3 chain, i tuft into same hole ; break off wool. For border to form the curtain — join on the coloured wool to end of white, and use the coarsest hook, work 5 treble stitches, but do not work them all off, only draw the wool on hook through once (instead of twice) loosely into i hole, or between the tufts, then i double crochet stitch between next, 5 treble again in next, and repeat to end of the row in same way, but increase in the middle hole of curtain by working 2 sets of treble— that is, 5 treble, i double, 5 treble; break off wool at end of each row. 2nd row — i double crochet into, or, rather, between the 3rd and 4th stitch of last row ; now draw up a loop loosely on to your hook, but insert the hook between the stitches ; do this for 6 times, that is, between the 6 stitches, then unite these 6 stitches by i chain, then i double into same hole or stitch, then 6 more loops, taking the hook between each stitch of the previous row ; this forms a bunch or half a star, which is completed in the next row ; i double, repeat to end of row in the same way. 3rd row — i double crochet, 5 treble stitches made in the same way as the ist row, but all into the little hole made by i chain in last row. This finishes i pattern, and should look like a raised star or daisy all along the row. 4th row — same as the 2nd. 5th row— work i double crochet over the double crochet stitch in last row, then work 7 treble in the same way into the little hole made by i chain in last row ; this completes the 56 curtain. For the head-piece or front, which is to turn back — you must begin on the wrong side, so that it will turn over on the right side, and work in same way as for curtain, only this is 2 rows, or i pattern, wider; finish off the corners neatly. You now run the narrow ribbon in and out of every other tuft in last row of white all round front and back, commencing at centre of back ; draw the hood up to the size required, and pull the ends through and tie on the wrong side ; make up a bow and sew on the back of the curtain ; now tack the front-piece loosely with a needle- full of the coloured wool, and make a nice bow to sew on top of coloured border in front, and sew on the strings. The hood can be let out or taken in by means of the narrow strings run in. STRING BALL CASE. You will require two balls of coloured crochet cotton No. 8, old gold and cardinal, or any two colours you prefer, steel hook No. 3; there will be sufficient cotton for two or more cases. You begin ' by working 8 chain in cardinal and unite, work 36 treble into the rtng of chain, ist row — \ chain, I treble into 2nd stitch from hook, 2 chain i treble for 18 tiroes more, mak- ing 19 holes altogether, join 2nd row with gold, 4 chain, 2 treble into 1st hole, 2 chain, 2 treble into every hole all round; keep both balls of cotton at back of work and slip the dif- ferent colour up each time it is wanted. 3rd row —cardinal, 4 chain, 3 treble into ist hole, 2 chain, 3 treble into every hole all round. 4th row — gold in same way 5th row — cardinal same. 6th row — gold same. 7th row — cardinal same. 8th row— gold same. 9th row — cardinal same. loth row — gold same, nth row — cardinal same. 12th row— gold. 13th row— gold, 6 chain, i treble into ist hole, 4 chain, i treble into every hole all round, this to draw it up by. You must now make a cord and 2 tassels of both cottons beginning and then run the cord and tassels in and out of the last row, draw up tightly and tie in a bow, when it will be finished and ready for use, and can be used for several balls of string. US- NOTICE.— A. SUPERB FnOil A VALUABLE ORIGINAL OIL PAINTING, ENTITLED "BEAUTY AND THE BEAST," IS PRESENTED WITH THE CHRISTMAS DOUBLE NUMBER OF Mrs. LEACH'S PRACTICAL FAMILY DRESSMAKER. NOW READY. Contaiiia numei-oiis designs of Lad'es' Indoor and Outdoor Costumes, ]Vrantlc<», ttc., Special Designs of Evening and Ball Toilettes, Notes on Novelties, Fasbionable Millinery. Amateur Dressmaking — Chaplcr I. Specially written -Articles on Christmaa Trees and their Decoration ; Decur<*ti gand RenovatiDjf the Home — Chapter I. ; New Ideas for Children's Parties ; Home-made Christmas Cards. Also, A New Christsias Storv by a j-opular Authoi-, entitled "Three Chrittmas Days" ; The Hair and its Care ; Auswei-s to Correspondents ; &c., Arc. The Price of this Grand Double Number, with. Presentation Picture, is 4(?. of all Newsvendors, or 6' little of the latter. The steni of the flower is a veiy pale grey green, as also the buds. The old stem is brown: vandyke brown in the shadows, pale chrome and ivory black mixed for the lights. The shadows of the leaves are painted in first, Antwerp blue and burnt sienna being used. For the light tone, mix emerald green and deep chrome. The youngest leaves are always the palest in colour. The older ones are a dark, rich green. The bulterfy is the common yellow kind. The drawing must be ver\- carefully done ; indeed, the drawing is the most important part of a butterfly. Before painting in the local colour, the black triangular mark at the tip of the wing must be put in. A little pale chrome and flake white is now painted on over the wings; rather more white must be used for the lights, which must be painted in vn\h. a ver>' fine brush, making the lights vanish towards the body. \'andyke brown, mixed with a little \\ory black, is the colour for the body, and also for the horns. The light veins on the wings are put in with a grey brown colour. Remember that the palette and brushes must never be put away dirty. The old paint on the palette should be rubbed off with a piece of rag dipped in turpentine, then it should be polished with a drop of oil. The brushes must be thoroughly cleansed in turpentine always after using, and now and then washed in warm water and soap. The palette knife must also be kept quite clean. If these little things are not attended to at the time, endless trouble is caused. {To be CPU tinned.) THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. New Year or Birthday Presents. At this season of the year, people's minds are mostly occupied with perplexing thoughts as to what presents to give to their friends and relations. It was only a day or two ago, a friend asked us to give her our advice as to a present she wanted to give her little niece. She had always given her toys, but wanted to give her something else this year. We thought a little dress pinafore would be nice. She eagerly caught at the idea as a good one. Perhaps this hint may be acceptable to our readers. Pinafores are inexpen- sive and easy to make, and when made ol muslin, either cream or white, and trimmed with lace and ribbon, they are very pretty and acceptable gifts. On receipt of ijd., a number of our Children's Dressmaker will be sent containing illustrations of over 60 styles. Crazy or American patchwork is extremely pretty, and most suitable for various things, antimacassars, cosies, quilts, tablecovers, &c. Fig. I is a cushion antimacassar. The patchwork is in four pieces. It is made as follows : — Four pieces of unbleached calico about 6 inches square are procured, pieces of silk, satin, plush and velvet (which can be bought in bundles at a milliner's, or sometimes they are advertised) are then tacked firmly on, each piece overlapping the one next to it a little way. The pieces should be small and cut in different shapes. When the square of calico *!S5 is entirely covered, the edge must Fig. I. be topsewn to prevent ravelling, and then each piece of silk or satin, &c., is herringboned round the edge with bright coloured silks, which must be in bright contrast to the piece herringboned. For instance, a blue piece would be stitched with gold colour, scarlet with blue, and so on. In arrang- ing the pieces on the calico, take care to have a good mixture of dark colours, especially black velvet. When the four squares are finished they must be lined with silk, or some rich material, and then joined together by lace insertion to form a square, which is edged Avith lace tomatch. Fig. 2 is an anti- macassar madeof black serge or merino, not necessarily black-dark olive green would look well, but black is what we have used. One end of the material is orna- mented with a Vandyke border of crazy patch- work. The points should be composed of light pieces, in contrast to the black. The Vandyke ought to be sketched in chalk on the material, then filled in with patchwork. The antimacassar is finished off with fringe, either of self colour or mixed. Fig. 3 is a cosy. The size and shape required is cut out in unbleached calico, and then the pieces are arranged as before. A cosy of dark green cloth, with a star or vandyked border of patchwork, in bright colours, is very effective. The cosy should be lined and wadded, then finished off with some bright cord. A set of curtains and border for a mantelpiece is a nice present. Foundation some dark colour, and a wide edge of patchwork as a border, and looped back with a band of patch- work, looks very handsome. \W¥m Fig. 2. «8 n..:^__ Fig. 3. There is no end to the pretty and useful things to be made of this crazy patchwork. Cushions are covered with it. Night- dress cases are made or ornamented with it. A cover for an occasional table, made of a dark material, with a large star of patch- work in the centre, the star edged with narrow silk cord of mixed colours, finished off with ball fringe, makes a handsome present. We think we have given a long enough list of things to be made ot American patchwork. We will go now to quite a different style of work, namely, painted j)hotographs in oils, quite a new method, not Crystoleum. A good iimnojinted photograph is necessary, one of a well known picture is pretty. The photo, must be taken to a cabinet maker, who, for a few pence, would cut a piece of wood exactly the size of the photo. The wood should be about half an inch thick. Take care to see that it is a smooth piece, if it were rough it would entirely spoil the photograph. The photograph is now ready for painting. Oil paints must be used, and 0}ily trans- parent colours. The colours can be obtained from any artists' colourman. White must never be used. The principal colours re- quired are brown, crimson, blue, yellow. Yellow and blue mixed will make green ; blue and crimson will make violet or purple. A little meguilp is used to moisten the colours. Crimson and yellow mixed is used iox flesh tints, with a little pure crimson for the cheeks and lips. When the picture is finished, it requires a thin wash of copal varnish, this brings out the brilliancy of the colours and pre- serves them. If a mistake is made in the painting it can easily be wiped off while wet with a soft rag. When finished, it can be framed or mounted on a small table easel. There are innumerable crochet and knitted things to be made, but we will mention none, as everyone knows of them. The bolster pincushion is very pretty ; it is made in the following manner : a piece of canvas, about six inches long and four "broad is worked in stripes — pink and white, for instance — in Berlin wool, in the ordinary wool work stitch. When the canvas is covered, the two sides are sewn together, and one end is drawn up like a bolster. This is then filled with cotton wool or bran, until it is quite full and firm, the open end is then drawn up and fastened. A bow of narrow pink ribbon covers the fastening at each end, and a loop of ribbon about ten inches long is fastened at either end, the fastening being concealed under the bow. The loop is used to hang the pincushion on to the side of a looking glass. It is not finished, however, until it is filled with pins, which must be put in evenly by the rows of wool work. Only the points are put in, leaving most of the pins exposed, making it look like a porcupine. These are very usefulforgentlemen,andeasyandinexpensivetomake. Baskets are always nice presents, especially a useful capacious one for holding work. One can be made of a waste paper basket. They can be stained with artist's black or artist's gold; which can be bought in shilling bottles. They are lined with some bright coloured lining, which should be long enough to form a bag at the top. Then strawberry baskets make nice little presents for children. They should be lined with a pretty bright lining, and four pockets should be made, one on each side, to hold cottons, tapes, needles, &c., and if they are fitted up with everything needful for work, they are much prized by the little ones. Useful Articles Quickly Made. How often have not our tempers been sorely tried hunting for a news- paper a few days old? By making a case similar to Fig. I, we can save our- selves this trouble. It will requireayard of whatever mate- rial you prefer. Our model was in green serge bound with red, and red flannel stars buttonholed all round with yel- low crewel wool. The word " News- papers " was also done in wool of that colour. The word must be written in large" letters with chalk, then run round with the wool and afterwards sewn over the stitches (not passing the needle through the serge, only the THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Slippers stitches), so as to form a cord, or it can be formed with cord alone. The slipper case is made to match. A yard and three-quarters will make both use- ful articles. The newspaper case is made double, but the one for slippers is folded up half way to form the bag for them. The points by which the cases hang must have a piece of whalebone about seven inches each side of the point, otherwise it will not keep nicely against the wall. Of course, much hand- somer materials may be used— satin and velvet, or cloth with bunches of flowers worked in crewels, &c. — but our examples are quickly made, arid many little odd pieces can be found effective for appliquing on. Who does not know the handiness and comfort of a shoulder bolster to sling over a chair back or sofa head, and be adjusted as the lounger likes ? These etceteras of the home are got up in almost any material, and sometimes knitted or crocheted in stripes of contrasting colours arranged diagonally or circularly, while others are of plush, velvet, satin, Roman sheeting embroidered in crewels or silks. Cords and pompon tassels finish off this comfortable article. A bolster ot dark green serge with two strips oi crewel work on satin arranged circularly, poppies, for instance, and scarlet pompons and cord, would be bright and serviceable. Fig. 3 matched the cases, as it was on a chair near them for Paterfamilias' use. Each fashion adds some fresh item of needlework for industrious pattern in chalk, then go over it again with a camel's-hair brush dipped in gum, to prevent its rubbing out in working. if. o>4, fingers. The braided collars and cuffs on tailor made jackets, or embroidered ones on velvet in gold or silver thread to improve a plain indoor dress, is now the pet piece of recreation for leisure moments. Our illustration will serve for braiding, or can be copied in chain stitch of silk, gold, or silver thread, or cord sewn down firmly on the pattern. Beads should outline the collar and cuffs. Trace the BOOK COVERS. It is so general now to have monthly or weekly publications on the side tables that a covered case is necessary both to keep them tidy as well as an ornament. A railway guide, for instance, is most useful, but with the paper cover its appearance is not pretty on a table. The ragged and dog's-eared wrapper is not a thing of beauty, and becomes an eyesore to anyone blessed with an orderly mind and any idea of tidiness. It may be useful to some to know how to make books of the description in question durable and tidy, at very small cost or trouble. Take a piece of stiff cardboard (the lid and sides of a hat box answers for the purpose) the exac t size of the paper cover of the book. This must be gummed smoothly, placing a weight on the book to keep it in order until dr>'. There are many materials from which to select for covering, but we will commence with cretonne. It must be cut an inch larger all round than the book is when it is open and laid on the table. Two slits must be made in the cretonne at the back for about an inch do\vn, just where the back of the book joins the cover. The flaps thus made are folded down inside just as you would do if you were covering the book with brown paper. Fold the cretonne over the card- board covers at the edge very tightly, securing it with gimi or glue. Judson's liquid glue is excellent for the purpose. A sheet of blotting paper must be put inside the book, between the cover and title page, to prevent the glue disfiguring the rest of the book. When the outside is dry cut a piece of plain white or coloured paper, just half an inch smaller than the cover of the book, so sis to have a border all round of the covering, and which finishes it off nicely. The name of the book can be written on a label to stick on the cretonne, or done in chain stitch before putting the covers on. Should the covers be of dark green serge, a pretty way is to paint the title in scarlet, for instance. Where the slits are cut it is as well to do a few button-hole stitches to obviate fraying. Some ladies can paint ; a spray of flowers, dog roses and forget-me- nots, or poppies, on black satin or sateen, looks charming. Fig. i can be either worked in silks or painted, the roses being done in their natural colours. When handsome cases are made it is as well 59 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. to make them separate from the magazine or whatever it is intended to cover. This can easily be done by gumming the satin on to cardboard and finishing off the inside with paper or sateen of a bright colour, and sewing a piece of ribbon at each end of the book cover ; after parting the publication in half, you put through the centre ribbon, thereby keeping in place, and at the expiration of the month it can be slipped out and the fresh one put in its place. It will be found that the case wears better at the corners if they are rounded slightly, there is no fear of them turning in then. ORNAMENTAL BUTTON-HOLES. The ornamental button-holes would add a very handsome appearance to the front of a dressing-gown or dressing- jacket, whether cambric or flannel. The button-holes themselves are worked in the usual way, but without the bar at each end, technically known as the "bridge." The main part of the em- broidered design is carried out in satin stitch, the stems being, of course, simple outline stitch. The darker scroll run- ning in and out among the leaves and flowers may be worked with coloured thread or silk if the rest of the em- broidery is white, and should also be carried out in satin stitch to correspond with the rest of the work. The wavy pattern at one side of the embroidery should be worked in rope-stitch, which is simply overcasting worked slant-wise, but if this line is intended to come quite at the edge of the material, it should be worked with button-hole stitch, and the material afterwards cut away round one side of it. Many articles of underlinen would be improved by having the but- ton-holes worked in this or a similar manner. BORDER. This little border is effective and easy to work, and would be appro- priate for any article requiring a flowing pattern as ornament. The straight design that is carried along one side of it may, of course, be omitted altogether, or worked on both sides of the centre, if this is thought advisable. Somewhat en- larged, this pattern would look well used as a border to curtains or a piano scarf. No corner is shown in the illustration, but one may easily be contrived, if the worker is able to draw a little. If a piece of looking glass be held upright in a slanting direction across the end of the pat- tern, the design will be reflected in it at right angles, thus giving at the point where the reflection and the actual design meet an excellent re- flection of the arrangement of the design in the angle. By shifting the glass about a little it will be easily seen which parts of the pattern will lend themselves best to form a corner. Another way of effecting this is to trace the design on two strips of paper and to hold up one on the window against the light, arranging the second piece of paper over the first at right angles to it till the designs blend sufficiently well to form a corner. The two papers are fastened together while in this position and a tracing of the comer taken from them. In working the pattern, the mainstem is worked in outline stitch, or it would look very pretty if it is followed with a line of fine gold thread laid on the material and caught over with a stitch at close intervals. The conventional flowers would look pretty worked in white, if the background is dark. The centre of the flowers and the stamens must be yellow, the leaves various shades of green. All the close parts of the pattern leaves, &c., are worked in satin stitch, but in doing the flowers it will give a very good appearance if the lower leaves or petals are worked in point jjassi, those which come uppermost in satin stitch, this will throw the flowers into a sort of relief and make the work more effective. Point passi, it may be added, is the same as satin stitch, the only difference . being that it is worked directly on the material without any surface of stitches to raise it first, as in true satin stitch. The various lines and stems of the design are worked in outline stitch, as are also the mid-ribs of the leaves. The narrow straight border to this pattern is carried out in seven lines of darning and one line of out- line stitch, or fine gold thread on each side. The stitches made in the darning are all of exactly the same length, and the spaces between each stitch are in this case only the merest trifle smaller than the stitches themselves. In the second row, the stitches must come exactly under the spaces left in the last row, and the third row again must correspond with the first, thus making a sort of basket work pattern. This darning is only adapted for working on linen, muslin, canvas, and such materials as are woven in straight lines. If cloth, silk, or satin is used, this little border would look best worked in couching, such as that so largely used in ecclesias- tical embroidery. Threads of silk or gold are laid down flatly and evenly upon the foundation, and are kept in their places by a stitch thrown over them at regular intervals. Two threads of the gold are thus sewn down at a time, and when the row is finished, two more threads must be laid down close to the first and caught over in the same way, the stitches in this second row coming exactly between those in the first. In the third row the perpendicular stitches correspond to those in the first row. This method of working straight designs will be found very useful in many kinds of art needlework. Art Needlework. The quicker work takes to do, undoubtedly the greater the satis- faction. How frequently have we not given complicated pieces of needlework to a younger sister or kind friend to finish ? The new Toile Crosse stitch appears likely to become a favourite style, for it takes but a short time to complete. It is generally worked on perforated felt, but by tracing the pattern out, it can be done on any material. Fig. I. Fig. I represents a tea cosy worked on this expeditious princi- ple. Our model was dark green satin and dark and light maroon, or rather that colour and rose pink. Now the secret of rendering the work effective is by threading the two shades through the needle at once. The cord should include shades of maroon and green. Line the cosy with quilted satin, matching the silks used in the workmg. A less expensive kind can consist of green cloth, crewels, and lined with rose coloured sateen. TRACING WHEEL FOR FANCY WORK. No. 1, suitable for Tracing every description of Fancy Work, 18 stamps, post free. Mrs. LeacHj 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Fig. 2. The tobacco pouch, Fig. 2, is done on brown cloth, the crossed pipes in two shades of fawn colour, and the little stars in blue, light and dark. A gutta-percha pouch — bought at a tobacco- nist's — must be used for a lining, a fine cord being sewn on to finish ofif the edge. Applique is certainly very general now for mats, handkerchief cases, antimacassars, &c., but the plain piece of cloth, satin or velvet is so thickly worked over with silk and gold cord, that we have to look closely to ascertain what it is that presents so rich an appearance. Fig. 3 is a stripe for chair bol- ster, antimacassar or table cloth border. It can be worked on almost any material, providing the colours harmonise, but we would suggest a ground of fawn colour fine cloth — foul^ serge does very nicely — the rings of dark brown sateen, herring-boned on with scar- let, the centres of blue crossed with amber, and the entire pattern sur- rounded with yellow purse silk or gold cord. Inside the ring and outlining the centre it must be button-hole stitch. Apropos of appliquu we saw a very handsome mantel board val- ance of black satin, with cretonne leaves cut out and worked on with silk, and outlined Avith gold cord, and exceedingly pretty it was, as doubtless our readers can imagine. The veins of the leaves were indi- cated more fully by green or brown silks, and were arranged in groups, which would have to be gummed on before working over, to keep in place. A many coloured ball fringe finished ofif the scallops, and the result was a very expensive looking article, costing but little money. Of course other patterns, roses or other flowers, could be arranged in the same manner, but the leaves I were particularly effective, the gold cord showing them up so well, and giving quite an Oriental appear- ance, which was charming. Fig. 4 is a mat to be placed in front of a writing table, piano, window recess or sofa. Cloth or velveteen may be used. Cut the Fig. 3. foundation material, which should HEAVY.— -Wye: CHRISTMAS DOUBLE NUMBER OF THE PRACTICAL FAMILY DRESSMAKER. WITH WHICH IS PRESENTED AN EXQUISITE OLEOGRAPH PICTURE, ENTITLED " BEAUTY AND THE BEAST." T his Picture has been pronounced by the London and Provincial Press as the best and cheapest of the season. The Number contains, in addition to its usual contents, a large and varied amount of Christmas Literature, Christmas Story, First Chapter on Amateur Dressmaking, &c. Only a limited number of pictures are left. Of all Neivsvmdors, price i,d., or 6d. post f?-ee from R. S. Cartwrioht, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. Fig. 4. match as nearly as possible the ground ot the carpet, take the velveteen, say scarlet, if you have a drab or brown grounding, van- dyke the edge, as shown in the illustration, and tack down, then cut out a star of scarlet and green, four of each, arranging them alternately, then six diamonds, two red and four green. After the various appliqu6 pieces are tacked, work all round them to keep them firm, then remove the tacking threads, and sew lines of worsted on the edge of the centre star and Vandykes. Old skeins of crewels are thus made useful, by dividing them into threes or fours, and sewing them down with bright coarse silk ; the more colours employed the gayer the effect. The finnge can be hand- made, directions to make which have been given, but for the con- venience of fresh readers we will give them again. Wind the skeins upon a card, so that they divide into four-inch lengths, cut them, pick up a quantity of strands in the left hand, secure them with a needle and thread by winding it round their centre and by stitch- ing it strongly ; double the wool, make a round bob at the top by winding the thread round the whole of the wool about half an inch from the top, then pass the thread through the centre of this bob, from the bottom part to the top. Comb out the tassel, for by so doing it becomes a soft texture. Attach these balls to the edge of the mat with thick strands of wool, and finish by lining the mat with dark serge, or any strong material, cutting the edge into van- dykes. Unless you have a large quantity of odd crewels, we should advise you to buy the fringe ready for sewing on ; the price is about 6|d. per yard. GILDED APPLIQUE. A novel kind of work that has lately come under our notice is the " Gilded Applique." It is very novelty makes it pleasant to do, especially as it is easy of execution, is quickly done, and is very good in result. It is specially adapted to cushion covers, mantel, table, or curtain borders, mats, and many other articles. Get a piece of lace ; coarse furniture lace answers as well as any, pro\nded that the design on it is somewhat distinct and not too " all over-ish." Cut out any part of the ;,T.ttem that will be effective when applied as a scroll or any simi'a. design. Lay all the parts of the pattern when they are thus r . out on a sheet of white cardboard, keep them down flat on ' re card by the help of fine lace pins just pushed through here and nere. Mix some gold paint very dry and coat the scraps of larc fl'ith it very thoroughly, leaving one coat to dry, and then laying on a second if one is considered insufficient. Then leave them to dry. Plush or velvet is, of course, the richest material on which to mount them, but if this is not available, there are many 61 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. less expensive stuffs that will answer equally well. When the lace is dry, tack the pieces into position, and sew them all over where they require to be kept perfectly flat with tiny stitches of fine gold- coloured silk, thus keeping them well in their place, and finally outline them with the finest of gold cord, such as is best to be obtained at those shops which make a speciality of ecclesiastical embroidery. This work seen from a little distance has all the splendid effect of old gold embroidery ; and even if it grows tarnished with wear, it may with care be touched up with gold paint even after it has been made up. DESIGN FOR QUILT. The design for a quilt is Indian in its origin, and is copied from one that was exhibited at the Colinderies. It is embroidered in crimson floss silk on a background of black satin, but filoselle may be used instead, if the roughness of the wear of floss silk is objected to. The design is a particularly easy one to work, composed as it is, almost entirely of straight lines. A wide and handsome border runs round the edge, with a small vandyke edging on each side of it. The centre of the quilt is quilted in the ordinary way, and inside the squares of every alternate row are embroidered small designs to correspond with the border. The pattern of the wide border consists of a number of circular designs, which recall the Indian palm leaf fans, some being open to their fullest extent, others three parts, and some only half open. These circles are com- menced in the centre, a number of long satin stitches or points lances being carried to the edge, and from thence back again to the centre. An economical and experienced worker will be able to manage this without passing a long line of silk across on the wrong side ; this is according to the rules of our art embroidery, but in Indian work as much silk is generally found on the wrong side as on the right. The stems should be worked in the ordinary outline or stem-stitch, while the thickened branches on the outside edge of the wide border should be carried out in close crewel or tapestry stitch, as shown in the design. The tiny zigzag border is worked in point lance, with a straight line of outline stitch on each side of it. The five circles in the quilted squares are worked in precisely the same way as the larger ones in the border. It is a pity, apropos of 62 embroidery on quilting, that more of our present work is not carried out on satin or silk that has been previously quilted. Some of the most beautiful specimens of ancient art embroidery exhibited this year at one of our exhibitions were so managed, and excited much admiration. A quilt made in the style of the one illustrated would form a handsome wedding present, and should be made of such a shape and size that it will rest e.xactly on the top of the bed without covering the pillows or hanging over the sides. This style of em- broidery worked in white floss silk in pale pink or blue flannel would make charming little head flannels for babies' use. I KERCHIEF PINAFORE. This dainty little pinafore is made of three kerchiefs, with coloured borders. In choosing the kerchiefs, fine material should be selected, as it washes much better. Good washing colours should also be chosen in the borders. For a child of 3 or 4 the kerchiefs should measure about 23 inches square. For front, cut off the border along one end of a kerchief, leaving 20 inches for the length of the pinafore. With the border you have cut off make the waist- band, measuring 6 inches in length, and the shoulder straps, measur- ing y inches in length, and about 3 inches in depth. For the back, take another kerchief, and cut a piece measuring 20 inches in depth, and 14 in width, having the border round 2 sides. Lay the right side of this piece on the right side of the 3rd kerchief, and cut another back to correspond with the first. With the borders remaining cut 2 sashes 26 inches long, and as wide as you can, and a band for the neck 19 inches long, and 2 wide. Join the backs to the front, so that you will have a border on each edge up the middle of the back. Leave 8 inches open for the armholes. Join the shoulder straps across from the back to the front, having the border downwards. The neck should now be perfectly straight all round. Slope about f inch out of the middle of the front to make the neck-band set properly, hem round the armholes. Put on the waist-band 7 inches below the slope you have just taken out of neck. It should be quite straight across the centre of the front. The easiest and neatest way to put it on is to gather the pinafore across the front 7 inches fro^ the neck, leaving about 4J inches plain at each side under the arm. Then make another gathering i inch below the last. Fold in the edges of the waist-band, and tack it on the top 'of the gathers, and stitch it round in the machine. It should be about an inch wide when finished, or a little more if the kerchiefs have a wide border. Now gather your sashes, when hemmed, and sew them firmly to each end of the waist-band. Hem each end of the neck-band. Gather in the neck, and put it evenly into the band, putting the centre of the shoulder straps to the quarters of the band, and the half to the centre of the front. If you wish, trim the neck-band, shoulder straps and sash ends with narrow washing THE FANCY WORK-BASKET lace, but the pinafore looks very pretty without any trimming. Run a narrow tape through the neck-band, and fasten it in the centre of the front. Linen kerchiefs are, of course, the best, but cotton answer the purpose equally well, and are much cheaper. Knitting. SILK HANDKERCHIEF. This dainty handkerchief is knitted in white lo-ply twisted silk, and is extremely handsome and serviceable. The silk can be obtained from Mr. William Pollard, Back Field, Thornton, near Bradford, at is. 2d. per oz., exclusive of postage, i oz. of silk and 2 steel needles, number 17, will be required. Very long needles should be chosen. The same pattern knitted in Shetland wool, and wooden needles No. 10, makes an exquisite shawl. The pattern consists of 2 contrasting stripes, which are knitted alternately, and commencing and finishing with cob-web stripe. The border is knitted separately, and then sewed on, putting sufficient fulness at the comers to allow it to lie quite flat. When all is completed the work should be stretched into a perfect square and carefully pinned on a perfectly clean white cloth which has previously been firmly fixed on a common table. A damp white cloth should then be spread over the work, and a pretty hot smoothing iron passed over it. Cobweb Stripe. Cast on 201 stitches, ist row — purl. 2nd row — knit plain. 3rd row — purl. 4th row— knit 8, knit 2 together, * put thread twice over needle, knit i, put thread twice over needle, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together ; repeat from * 14 times more, put thread twice over needle, knit i, put thread twice over needle, knit 2 together, knit 8. 5th row — purl 7, purl 2 together, * put thread twice over needle, drop i thread off the needle in your left hand, purl 3, put thread over the needle twice, drop 1 thread off the left hand needle, purl 2 together, purl 5, purl 2 together ; repeat from * 14 times, put the thread twice over the needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, purl 3, put thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, purl 2 to- gether, purl 7. 6th row — knit 6, * knit 2 together, put thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit 5, put thread twice round needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit 3 ; repeat from * 14 times, knit 2 together, put thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit 5, put thread twice over needle, drop I thread off left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit 6. 7th row — purl 5, purl 2 together, put thread over needle twice, drop i thread off left hand needle, purl 7, thread twice round needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, purl 2 together, * purl i, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, purl 7, thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, purl 2 together ; repeat from * 14 times more, purl 5. 8th row — knit 4, knit 2 together, * thread twice over needle, drop I thread offleft hand needle, knit 2 together, knit I knit 3 together, knit i, knit 2 together, put thread twice over needle, drop I thread off left hand needle, slip i, knit 2 together, draw slipped stitch over ; repeat from * 14 times more, put thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 3 together, knit i, knit 2 together, put thread twice over needle, drop i thread offleft hand needle, knit 2 together, knit 4. 9th row — purl 5, * thread twice over needle, drop I thread off left hand needle, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop 1 thread offleft hand needle, purl I ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread over needle twice, drop I thread off left hand needle, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread offleft hand needle, purl 5. loth row — knit 5, * thread over needle twice, drop 2 threads off left hand needle, knit 5, thread over needle twice, drop 2 threads off left hand needle, knit I ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread over needle twice, drop 2 threads offleft hand needle, knit 5, thread twice over needle, drop 2 threads oft' left hand needle, knit 5. nth row — purl 6, * thread over needle twice, drop I thread off left hand needle, purl 2 together, purl I, purl 2 together, thread tnice over needle, drop I thread offleft hand needle, purl 3 ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread twice over needle, drop I thread offleft hand needle, purl 2 together, purl I, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, purl 6. 12th row — knit 7, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 3, thread twice over needle, drop l thread, knit 5, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 3, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, * knit 5, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 3, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 5, thread twice over needle, drop l thread, knit 3, thread twice over needle, drop l thread ; repeat from * 14 times more, knit 7. 13th row — purl 5, * thread twice over needle, purl 2 together, purl I, thread twice over needle, drop I thread offleft hand needle, purl I, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread off left hand needle, * purl I, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, purl I, thread twice over needle, purl 2 together, purl i, thread twice over needle, drop l thread off left hand needle, purl I, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread off left hand needle ; repeat from * 14 times, purl i, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, purl 5. 14th row — knit 6, thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit i, * thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle twice, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit i, knit 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit 3, thread twice over needle, drop i thread offleft hand needle, knit 2 together, knit i ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread twice over needle, drop i thread oft' left hand needle, knit 2 together, twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, knit I, knit 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread offleft hand needle, knit 6. 15th row— purl 5, purl 2 together, * thread twice over needle, drop i thread offleft hand needle, purl 2 together, purl I, thread twice over needle, drop i thread offleft hand needle, purl I, thread twice over needle, drop i thread offleft hand needle, purl I, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread off left hand needle, purl 2 together, purl I, purl 2 together ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, purl 2 together, purl I, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, purl i, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl i, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl i, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread offleft hand needle, purl 2 together, purl 5. ]6ih row — knit 4, knit 2 together, drop i thread oft'left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit I, thread twice over needle, drop i thread oft'left hand needle, * knit 3, thread twice over needle, drop i thread oft'left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit i, drop 1 thread oft' left hand needle, thread twice over needle, knit 3 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread off left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit i, thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle ; repeat from * 14 times more, knit 3, thread twice over needle, drop i thread oft' left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit l, drop i thread oft' left hand needle, knit 2 together, knit 4. 17th row — purl 5, drop 1 thread off left hand needle, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread off left hand needle, purl 5, * thread twice over needle, drop 1 thread, purl 2 together, drop i thread, purl 3, drop I thread, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl 5 ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl 2 together, drop l thread, purl 6. I Sth row — knit 5, knit 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 7, * thread twice over needle, drop 1 thread, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, knit 7 ; repeat from * 14 times, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 2 together, knit 5. 19th row — purl 4, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, * purl 2 together, purl I, purl 3 together, purl i, purl 2 to- 63 THE FANCV WORK-BASKET. gether, drop I thread, thread twice over needle, purl 3 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread ; repeat from *, purl 2 to- gether, purl I, purl 3 together, purl I, purl 2 together, drop I thread, thread twice over needle, pui-1 2 together, purl 4. 20th row — knit 5, * thread twice over needle, drop l thread, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, knit i ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 5. 21st row — purl 5, drop 2 threads off left hand needle, thread twice over needle, * purl 5, thread twice over needle, drop 2 threads off left hand needle, purl i, thread twice over needle, drop 2 threads ; repeat from * 14 times more, purl 5, thread twice over needle, drop 2 threads, purl 5. 22nd row — knit 6, * thread twice over needle, drop i thread, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 3 ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 6. 23rd row — purl 7, * thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl 3, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl 5 ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl 3, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl 7. 24th row — knit 8, * thread twice over needle, drop 1 thread, knit 2 together, knit i, thread twice over needle, dropir thread, knit 7 ; repeat from * 14 times more, thread twice over needle, drop I thread, knit 2 together, knit i, thread twice over needle, drop i thread, knit 8. 25th row — purl 9, * thread twice over needle, drop i thread, purl 2 together, thread twice over needle, drop i thread ; repeat from * 15 times more, purl 9. 26th row — knit 10, * drop I thread, knit i, drop I thread, knit 11 ; repeat from * 14 times, drop i thread, knit i, drop I thread, knit 10. 27th row — purl ; count your stitches, and see that you have 201. 28th row — knit plain. 29th row — purl. For Lattice Stripe. Knit 4, * put thread twice over needle, knit 3 together ; repeat from * till within 5 stitches of the end of row, knit 5. 2nd row — purl, making a separate stitch out of each thread on needle, having in all 20I stitches. 3rd row — knit 4, * thread once over needle, knit 2 together; repeat from * to \vithin 5 stitches of end, knit 5. 4lh row — purl. 5th row — knit 5, * thread over needle, knit 2 to- gether ; repeat from * to within 4 stitches of end, knit 4. 6th row — purl ; repeat rows 3, 4, 5 and 6 till you have 1 1 rows of holes, or 22 rows altogether. 23rd row — knit 4, * knit 2 together, thread over needle ; repeat from * to within 5 of end, knit 5. 24th row — purl. 25th row— knit 5, * knit 2 together, thread over needle ; repeat from * to within 4 stitches of end, knit 4. 26th row — purl ; repeat 23rd, 24th, 25th and 26th rows till you have 20 rows of holes counting from beginning of stripe. 41st row — knit 5, * put thread twice over needle, knit 3 together ; repeat from * to within 4 stitches of end of row, knit 4. 42nd row — purl, making a separate stitch of each thread on the needle ; you should have 201 stitches altogether. Repeat cobweb and lattice stripes till you have 3 of the latter and 4 of the former. Fasten off. Border : Cast on 19 stitches, istrow — slip I, knit 2, put thread over needle, knit 2 together, put thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit i, thread over needle and knit 2 together 5 times, thread over needle, knit l. 2nd row — purl 15, thread over needle, purl 2 together, thread over needle, purl 2 to- gether, purl I. 3rd row — slip I, knit 2, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit 2, thread over needle and knit 2 together 5 times, thread over needle, knit I. 4th row — purl 1 5, thread over needle, purl 2 together, thread over needle, purl 2 together, purl i. 5th row — slip i, knit 2, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit 3, thread over needle and knit 2 together 5 times, thread over needle, knit I. 6th row — purl 17, thread over needle, purl 2 together, thread over needle, purl 2 together, purl i. 7th row — slip i, knit 2, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit 4, thread over needle and knit 2 together 5 times, thread over •needle, knit i. 8th row— purl 18, thread over needle, purl 2 to- gether, thread over needle, purl 2 together, purl i. 9th row — slip I, knit 2, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit 5, thread over needle and knit 2 together 5 times, thread over needle, knit i. loth row — purl 19, thread over needle, purl 2 together, thread over needle, purl 2 together, purl I. nth row — slip I, knit 2, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit 6, thread over needle and knit 2 together 5 times, thread over needle, knit I. 12th row — purl 20, thread over needle, purl 2 together, thread over needle, purl 2 to- gether, purl I. 13th row — slip i, knit 2, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit 7, thread over needle and knit 2 together 5 times, thread over needle, knit I. 14th row— purl 21, thread over needle, purl 2 together, thread over 64 needle, purl 2 together, purl i. 15th row — slip l, knit 2, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit 19. i6th row — cast off 7 stitches, leaving 19 altogether, purl 13, thread over needle, purl 2 together, thread over needle, purl 2 together, purl i ; repeat from ist row till you have enough to go all round the centre, allowing for sufficient fulness at the corners. Before casting off it is advisable to sew the border on, and then if more is required it can be easily added. In the cobweb pattern each pattern takes 12 stitches, and 4 extra stitches should be left at one end, and 5 at the other for edge. THE FACILE STOCKING OR SOCK. There are many people to whom the knitting of a stocking is by no means an easy matter, and some who find the formation of the heel an insurmountable difficulty. To such, this stocking will be a boon. The pattern is so easy, that anyone who can knit at all will have little or no difficulty in working it, and thus be enabled to accomplish comfortable well-fitting hose. In the hand the Facile Stocking presents the appearance of a shapeless bag, and until it is finished and tried on, it is hard to believe that it will fit better than the majority of so-called shaped stockings. Recently a lady who is an experienced knitter smiled very doubtfully when told that the article the writer was knitting was intended for a stocking, but no sooner was she shown a similar one on the foot, than she asked for the pattern, saying she " would begin a pair at once." For a pair of lady's stockings (ordinary size), 6 skeins of black or coloured Baldwin's 3- ply beehive fingering" wool will be required, and 4 steel knitting needles No. 15. When the stockings are to belooped, or the patent fastenings are used, it is a good plan to cast on and knit the first 3 or 4 rounds with double wool. Cast on 45 stitches on the 1st needle, 44 on the 2nd needle, and 43 stitches on the 3rd needle, join by knitting I stitch from the 1st needle on to the 3rd needle There are now 44 stitches on each needle; * knit 2 plain stitches, purl 2 stitches ; repeat from * all round. Continue this ribbing for 10 or 12 rounds, then knit on plain round and round, till 5 inches are worked from the beginning. The narrowings for the leg are now commenced. Count the stitches to see that the correct nimi- ber, 44, are on each needle. By putting in a small piece of coloured wool at the beginning of the needle, now when commenc- ing the narrowings it catches the edge and shows where the rounds begin. 1st narrowing round — knit 20 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 20 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit the other 2 needles same as the one just done, now knit 8 rounds plain. It will be a help, particularly if black or coloured wool is being used, to have a pencil and piece of paper at hand to mark down as each ot the rounds between the narrowings is completed; by so doing, and with a piece of coloured wool showing where the rounds begin, little attention is required. 3nd narrowing round — knit 19 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 19 stitches, knit 2 stitches toge- ther, knit next 2 needles same as the one just done. Knit 8 plain rounds. 3rd narrowing round — knit 18 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 18 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit next 2 needles same as the one just worked, knit 8 plaiti rounds. 4th narrowing round — knit 17 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 17 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit next 2 needles same as the one just done, knit 8 plain rounds. 5th narrowing round — knit 16 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 16 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit next 2 needles same as the one just done, knit 8 plain rounds, 6th narrowing round — knit 15 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 15 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit next 2 needles same as the one just done, knit 8 plain rounds. 7th narrowing round — ^knit 14 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 14 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit next 2 needles same as the one just done, knit 8 rounds. 8th narrowing round — knit 13 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 13 stitches, knit 2 stitches together knit next 2 needles same as the one just done, knit 8 plain rounds. 9th narrowing round — knit 26 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. next 2 needles same as the one just done. This finishes the narrow- ings and leaves 27 stitches on each needle. Now knit on plain round and round till 24 inches are worked from the beginning. It is advisable to count the stitches occasionally to make sure of knit- ting the correct number on the needle, 27 on each. The toe is now commenced. Put in a piece of coloured wool as before, * knit 7 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * all rouni,d, knit 7 plain rounds, * knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * all round, knit 6 plain rounds, * knit S plain stitches, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * all round, knit 5 plain rounds, * knit 4 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * all round, knit 4 plain rounds, * knit 3 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * all round, knit 3 plain rounds, *knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * all round, knit 2 plain rounds, * knit i stitch, knit 2 stitches together, repeat from * all round, knit i plain round ; repeat the last 2 rounds till only 6 stitches remain altogether, break off the wool, leaving an end of about 3 finger lengths, thread this into a darning needle, and slip the darning needle through the stitches on the ist knitting needle so as to gee them on to the wool, take out this knit- ting needle ; take the stitches off the other 2 needles in the same way, keeping the wool loose; now put the darning needle through the centre, taking it to the wrong side, and draw the wool tight to close the stocking. Fasten off the wool by darning it backwards and forwards for a few turns. If this style of stocking is used for children and required to be looped for tying, they are done thus : — Take a piece of tape about the width of the ribbing, pin it round the top of the stocking at the full stretch of the knitting, cut and join the tape, stitch it to the stocking (crossways of the tape) at distances of about 2 inches all round. The ribbing, being elastic, draws up the tape into loops, so^that there is one at whatever part of the stocking comes to the side. When black or dark coloured wool is used, the toes of the stockings and the tops (down to where the narrowings commence) are often knitted in grey wool. The grey is pleasanter to work and more easily darned, of course; if the grey is used, it should be the same kind of wool as the black. When the stockings are worn out at the feet, they are easily re-footed by cutting off the worn parts, lifting the stitches and knitting as at first. Socks can be knitted in the same way as the stockings. For a gentleman's sock (ordinary size), cast on with the same sized needles andwool,and work3i stitches onist needle, 30 stitches on 2nd needle, and 29 on the 3rd needle, join (as directed for stocking), which leaves 30 stitches on each needle;* knit 3 plain stitches, purl 3 stitches, repeat from * all round, and continue this ribbing till there is about a finger length worked, then knit plain till 14 inches are worked from the beginning, or 15 inches if a long sock is wished. If preferred, the sock can be ribbed all the way down to the toe, which must be done in plain knitting; count the stitches to see that the correct number are on the needles (30 on each) and knit the toe as directed for lady's stocking. If a heavier, stronger sock is wanted, use needles No. 14 and Baldwin's 4-ply beehive fingering wool. Cast on so as to have 24 stitches on each needle and knit as directed for finer sock; 4 skeins of wool will be required for a pair of socks. The Facile stockings or socks require to be made a little wider than the ordinary shaped ones to prevent a strain at the heel. Inexperienced knitters may be glad of a hint about joining their wool, which should not be done with a knot. The ends of the 2 pieces should be overlapped for 4 or 5 inches, and 6 or 7 stitclic'; knitted with the wool thus doubled. Care must be taken not to divide the wool in these stitches when knitting the next round. SOCK IN OPEN PATTERN. Materials required : i oz. pale blue Shetland wool, and 4 steel knitting needles. No. 16. Cast on 69 stitches, that is, 23 on each needle, ist row— knit 2, purl 1 all the way round, and repeat this row till you have done 36 in all ; this completes the top band. Knit 2 rows plain. The open pattern now begins. * ist row — make i (by putting the wool over the needle), slip i, as if about to purl, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones, and repeat from the beginning of the row. Knit 2 rows plain. Repeat from *, not forgetting the 2 plain rows after each pattern row. Work these 3 rows till the leg is long enough, probably 54 rows in all will be found a nice size. Now begin the heel, which is knitted double for strength, the fancy pattern being discontinued. You must have 35 stitches for the heel, and to obtain them knit the first 17 stitches, turn and purl 35 stitches, passing all these 35 stitches on to I needle; slip the remaining 34 stitches on to another needle or a piece of wool, ist row of heel — slip i, knit i, slip i, knit i, slip I, knit I, slip I, knit i, slip i, knit i, slip i, knit i, slip i, knit i, slip I, knit I, purl l, knit i, slip l, knit I, slip l, knit I, slip I, knit I, shp I, knit I, slip l, knit l, slip i, knit I, slip i, knit I. 2nd row— slip the 1st stitch, purl 15, knit 1, purl 16. Repeat these 2 rows till you have done 30 rows in all. You now discontinue the double pattern and work alternate rows of plain and purl; knit 16 stitches, purl i, knit 2, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit I; turn, slip i, purl 3, knit I, purl 2, purl 2 stitches, purl i; turn and proceed in the same way till all the stitches are worked off, each row working i more after the seam stitch before taking 2 together; when all are worked off, take up the stitches down the left side of the heel-flap ; take up 16 stitches, knitting them as you pick them up, and taking care to keep the pattern on the front needle, the other 2 needles being knitted plain. Work another round, and in the 3rd round knit 2 stitches together at the beginning of the ist heel needle, and at the end of the 2nd, the front needle being as usual. Work 2 more rounds without decreasing, and then decrease again as before, and continue the decreasing every 3rd round till you have 69 stitches, then work round without decreasing till you have about 50 rows in all, counting from where you picked up the stitches at the heel. It should measure a little over 2 inches. Knit 5 rounds plain, dis- continuing the pattern on the front needle, and then decrease for the toe. 1st row — begin with the front n eedle: knit I, knit 2 together knit to'within 3 of the end of this needle, knit 2 together. 2nd needle — knit l, knit 2 together, knit the rest of the needle plain ; knit the 3rd needle till the last 3 stitches, when knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. Knit 2 rounds plain, without any decreas- ing, and then repeat from the ist row of the toe till you have only 24 stitches left. Cast off, and sew them neatly together. PETTICOAT FOR EIGHTEEN MONTHS. This pretty and comfortable little garment measures 19 inches from the neck to the bottom of the skirt. It will fit a child of one and a half years old. By adding a few more rows to the skirt and to the bodice it can be made to fit any child requiring a petti- coat of the kind, and so will be found a most useful pattern. The model is worked on two bone knitting needles, No. 7, of Beehive fingering wool. The colour is a pink and white mixture. When ordering the wool it is well to give the number, 353, to ensure getting the right shade : 6 ozs. are required. Of course any other colour can be used if preferred. It is fastened down the back with 5 pearl buttons. Begin with the flounce, which is knitted in a pattern representing box pleating, with a fancy stitch thrown up on the right side. The little edging at the bottom is worked at the same time. For flounce — cast on 39. ist row — cast off 2, knit 3, make I by throwing the wool over the needle, narrow by knitting 2 together, knit II, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit 2. 2nd row — purl 3, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl 9, knit 2, make i, narrow, make 2, knit 3. 3rd row — knit 4, purl i, knit i, make i, narrow, knit 9, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit 4. 4th row — purl 5, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl 7, knit 2, make l, narrow, knit 5. 5th row — knit 6, make i, narrow, knit 7, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit 6. 6th row — purl 7, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl 5, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 5. 7th row — cast off 2, knit 3, make i, narrow, knit 5, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit S. 8th row — purl 9, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl 3, knit 2, make i, narrow, make 2, knit 3. 9th row — knit 4, puii i, kniti, make i, narrow, knit 3, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit 10. loth row — knit i, purl 10, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl I, knit 2,' make I, narrow, knit 5. nth row — knit 6, make I, narrow, knit I, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit 10, purl 2. 12th row— knit i, purl 10, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl I, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 5. 13th row — cast off 2, knii 3, make l, narrow, knit 3, purl 4, knit lo, purl 4, knit :o. 14th row — purl 9, knit 4,^piirl 10, knit 4, purl 3, knit 2, make i, narrow, make 2, knit 3. 15th row— knit 4, purl i, knit i, make i, narrow, knit 5, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit 8. i6th row — purl 7, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl 5, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 5. 17th row — knit 6, make i, narrow, knit 7, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit 6. iSth row — purl 5, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl 7, knit 2, make i, narrow, knit 5. 19th row — cast off 2, knit 3, make l, narrow, knit 9, purl 4, knit 10, purl 4, knit 4. 20th row — purl 3, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4, purl 9, knit 2, make I, narrow, make 2, knit 3. 21st row — knit 4, purl i, knit I, make i, narrow, knit il, purl 4, knit io,purl 4, knit 2. 22nd row — knit 32, make I, narrow, knit 5. 23rd row — knit 6, make i, narrow, purl 31. 24th row — knit 32, make l, narrow, knit 5. 25th row — * cast off 2, knit 3, make l, narrow, knit i, purl 30. 26th row — knit 32, make l, narrow, make 2, knit 3. 27th row — knit 4, purl I, knit I, make i, narrow, knit i, purl 30. 28lh row — knit 32, make l, narrow, knit 5. 29th row— knit 6, make i, narrow, knit I, purl 30. 30th row — knit 32, make i, narrow, knit 5 ; repeat from* on 25th row. This completes i pattern. Repeat from ist row 10 times more ; cast off. Hold the right side of the work towards you, pick up 200 stitches along the top edge. 1st row — * knit 3, purl 2 ; repeat from *. 2nd row — * knit 2, purl 3 ; repeat from*. 3rd row — * purl 2, knit 3 ; repeat from *. 4th row — * purl 3, knit 2 ; repeat from *. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. Cast on 6 stitches for the placket hole. Always work these 6 stitches in garter stitch. Work 3 more patterns of 4 rows each. 29th row THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. — ^knit plain. 30th row— knit 6, narrow, * knit 4, narrow ; repeat from *. 31st row^knit plain, 32nd row— knit 3, make i, narrow, * knit 20, narrow ; repeat from * 33rd row— knit plain. 34th row— knit 6, * knit 3, purl 3 ; repeat from * till 39 stitches are Avorked, turn back and continue to knit on these 39 stitches for half of back. 35th row— purl 3, knit 3 alternately until 6 stitches remain, knit 6, work 3 more rows in the same way. 6th row on half of back —knit plain ; repeat from 3Sth row 8 times more, cast off. For ront of bodice take 81 stitches, ist row— purl 3, knit 3 alternately. Work thus for 4 more rows. 6th row — knit plain ; repeat these 6 rows 8 times more. 55th row— purl 3, knit 3, purl 3, turn back and work 4 more rows on these 9 stitches in the same way for the shoulder strap. 6th row— knit plain ; repeat these 6 rows twice more. Cast off 9 stitches ; break off wool ; cast off all the stitches along the top of front, except 9 for the 2nd shoulder strap, which work in the same way. Work the 2nd half of back on the 46 stitches still remaining to match the ist half, until 12 rows are worked. 13th row— knit 3, make I, narrow to make buttonhole. Work the 2Sth, 37th and 49th rows in the same way. Cast off when 54 rows are completed. Sew up the skirt to where placket hole begins ; fasten it down on the wrong side of skirt. Sew up the side seams of the bodice for 30 rows from the waist. Sew on the buttons to corre- spond to the holes made in the back of the bodice. Trim the neck and round the armholes of the petticoat with the edging which trims the bottom of the flounce. Cast on 7. ist row— knit 2, make i, narrow, make 2, knit 3. 2nd row — knit 4, purl i, knit i, make I, narrow, knit I. 3rd row— knit 2, make I, narrow, knit 5. 4th row —knit 6, make 1, narrow, knit I. Sth row— knit 2, make I, narrow, knit 5. 6th row— cast off 2, knit 3, make I, narrow, knit 2; repeat from ist row. Work n patterns for each sleeve ; cast off each length when finished; 27 patterns will be required for the neck. Sew on the edging neatly and evenly round the neck and arms, sewing on the wrong side, allowing i row of the edging to each stitch round the neck of bodice and 2 rows of edging to each loop round the armholes. By doing this the quantity of edging done will be found to be exactl/ enough. Strings for the neck and waist can be made by crochet- ing a chain with double wool and finished off with tassels at the ends, or narrow ribbon may be used, either pink or white will look well. VEST FOR CHILD IN FANCY KNITTING. Materials required : — ij oz. of white Anda- lusian wool, and 2 bone needles. No. 12. ist row — knit plain. 2nd row — slip I, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, * knit 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 8 times more, knit 2, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I. 3rd row — si'ip 1, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit 1, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit 3, purl 2, *knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * 8 times more, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit I. Then repeat from the 2nd row till 81 rows in all are done. 82nd row— slip I, pick up a stitch and knit it, purl 1, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit 40, purl i, knit l, purl l, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, pick up a stitch and knit it, knit i. 83rd row — slip I, purl I, knit i, purl I, knit l, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit i, purl I, knit 40, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit l, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl i. 84th row — slip I, pick up a stitch and knit it, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit 1, purl I, knit I, purl l, knit i, purl 40, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit 1, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl _i, knit I, purl i, pick up a stitch and knit it, knit i. 85th row— slip I, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl 40, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl l, knit I, purl l, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl l, knit i. 86th_^row — slip i, pick up a stitch and knit it, purl i, knit l, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I, purl l, knit I, purl i, knit i purl 40, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, pick up a stitch and knit it knit I. 87th row — slip i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i purl I, knit i, purl 1, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit 40, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit l, purl i, knit i, purl i,knit i,purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl I. 88th row — slip i, pick up a stitch and knit it, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit 40, purl I, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I, purl I, pick up a stitch and knit it, knit i. 89th row — slip i, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit 40, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit I purl I, knit i, purl i, knit l, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit I. 90th row — slip I, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl 40, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i. 91st row — slip I, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl 40, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i. 92nd row — slip i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit l, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 8 times more, knit 2, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit 1, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i; 93rd row — slip I, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit 3, * purl 2, knit 2 ; repeat from * 8 times more, purl 2, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit I. Then repeat from the 92nd row 4 times, after which you begin the shoulder strap. Work the first 16 stitches as usual, cast off the next 39 stitches, and work the last 16 stitches as usual. Pass the first 16 off on to a piece of wool, and work the other 16 on your needle in the pattern for 16 rows. Purl i row, knit 2 rows, and cast off. Knit the other shoulder strap the same, which completes one half the vest, the other being worked exactly the same, and the 2 sewn together at the shoulders, and down the sides, leaving armholes, and about an inch unsewn at the bottom. Crochet border round neck, sleeves, and bottom of the vest, ist row — I double crochet into every stitch, or not quite so often if it looks too full. 2nd row — * i single crochet (that is, put the hook into a double crochet stitch, and pull the wool at once through the loop already on your hook), 3 chain, 2 treble into the same loop as the single, miss 2 double crochet, and repeat from * all round. PETTICOAT FOR LADY. Materials required : I lb. of best white Scotch fingering, 3 steel needles, N o. 1 3 Walker's bell gauge. Pront width — cast on 120 stitches on 2 needles, knit 4 rows plain; now com- mence to rib in 3 purl and 3 plain, decrease every 16th row i stitch each side until the front is reduced to 87 stitches, and cast off; this should bring the length of front to 288 rows. Side gores ■ — cast on 120 stitches, knit 4 rows plain, rib 3 purl and 3 plain, de- creasing every 9th row I stitch each side until there are 58 stitches, then cast off. Back width — cast on 180 stitches, knit 4 rows plain, rib 3 purl and 3 plain, decreasing every Sth row until there are 218 rows ; now take half the stitches on to i needle for placket hole, tie up stitches on the remaining needle to prevent them slipping off; now knit 9 stitches plain at centre end of needle at each row to form placket hole, and repeat this for 72 rows, decreasing as before, then cast off. Second half of placket hole should be commenced from seam side of petticoat, and when you come to the centre of the width, pick up 9 extra stitches over the 9 plain ones already knitted on the opposite side ; these 9 stitches must be knitted plain to corr?. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. spond with under side for 72 rows, and then cast off. This forms a well finished and folding placket hole, and is considered a great improvement on all others. Each width should be 288 rows long. Now sew widths evenly together, taking care to place i gore each side of front, and sew back width in lastly, then sew petticoat into a webbing waistband. PETTICOAT FOR INFANT. Materials re- quired : 5i ozs. of best white peacock fingering, 4 bone or vulcanite needles, pointed at each end. No. II, Walker's bell gauge, 3 yards of white sarcenet ribbon for neck and waist. Cast on 270 stitches, which will be 90 stitches on each needle. This will make 30 patterns in the round, there being 9 stitches in each pattern, ist row — knit 8 plain and I purl, and repeat to the end of row. 2nd row — 7 plain and 2 purl, and repeat. 3rd row — 6 plain and 3 purl, and repeat. 4th row — 5 plain and 4 purl, and repeat. 5th row — 4 plain and 5 ' purl, and repeat. 6th _ row — 3 plain and 6 purl, and repeat. 7th row — 2 plain and 7 purl, and repeat. 8th row — I plain and 8 purl, and repeat to the end of row ; this finishes the pattern. Repeat these 8 rows until there are 10 patterns worked. The nth pattern must be commenced by knitting 9 plain for commencement of placket hole on the ist needle, then knit 8 plain and i purl, and repeat till end of row; now cast on 9 extra stitches at the end of last needle for underneath side of placket hole ; the petticoat must now be knitted backwards and forwards, always knitting the placket hole on both sides plain. 2nd row — 2 plain and 7 purl, and repeat. 3rd row — 6 plain and 3 purl, and repeat. 4th row — 4 plain and 5 purl, and repeat. 5th row — 4 plain and 5 purl, and repeat. 6th row— 6 plain and 3 purl, and repeat. 7th row — 2 plain and 7 purl, and repeat. 8th row — 8 plain and i purl, and repeat these 8 alternate rows for 5 patterns. First row of bodice, setting the pleats and reducing the stitches on needles — knit 9 plain,* slip l, knit i, take the slipped stitch over and repeat from * till within the last 9 stitches, which must always be knitted plain each side of the bodice ; this reduces petticoat to 146 stitches; knit i plain and i purl for 5 rows. 6th row — knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, put wool twice over needle, knit 4 plain,* knit 2 together, put wool twice over needle, knit l plain, i purl, i plain, I purl, which should make 2 ribs between eacii hole, and repeat from * till last 9 stitches, which must be knitted plain ; this forms a row of holes for waist ribbon. Now knit i plain and l purl for 22 rows ; now take 37 stitches on i needle for half of back, left hand side, knit 3 plain, cast off 3 stitches, knit 3 plain and continue rib- bing to the end of needle, slip the ist stitch for the commencement of armhole and rib back to the 9 plain stitches, knit 3, cast on 3, knit 3 ; this forms buttonhole in back. Next row — * knit 9 plain and rib to the end of row, and repeat from *, knitting backwards and forwards till there are 26 rows, leaving these 37 stitches on the needle secured at each end to prevent slipping off. Now take 72 stitches for front of bodice, and rib backwards and forwards for 26 rows, slipping 1st stitch at commencement of each row; leave these 72 stitches on i needle secured at each end ; now take 37 stitches for right hand back, omitting button-hole for 26 rows ; now rib all round, joining shoulders together for 3 rows. 4th row above shoulders — knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, * put wool twice over the needle, knit 2 together, and repeat from * till within the last 9 stitches, which must be knitted plain; knit i row plain all round and cast off. Now crochet round the neck and armholes i double into the 1st knitted stitch, being careful always to take the back of stitch. miss the next stitch and work 3 treble into the 3rd stitch, miss the 4th, and work double into the 5th, and repeat till the end of row. Edging for bottom of skirt — i double into the ist stitch, miss the 2nd and work 5 treble into the 3rd, miss the 4th and work i double into the 5th, and repeat all round. These edgings form a very pretty finish. The loose half of placket hole must be sewn down so that the petticoat folds nicely over. MITTENS IN FINE SILK. Two half-ounce balls of black, extra-quality knitting silk, and 6 steel needles. No. 18, required for one pair of mittens. Cast on 96 stitches, 32 on each of 3 needles, ist round — rib, * l plain (taking the back of the stitchj, i purl, repeat from * to end of the round. Rib as ist round till there are 40 rounds knitted. 41st round — plain. 42nd round — * i plain, I purl, repeat from * to end of the round. 43rd and 44th rounds — same as 42nd round. 45th round — * I purl, I plain, repeat from * to end of the round. 46th and 47th rounds — same as 4 5th round. Repeat from 42nd round once more. 54th round — I plain, I purl, raise a stitch (by putting your needle through the loop elbow, and knitting it), i plain, i purl, raise a stitch (the second time a stitch is raised, do it thus, before letting the loop of the last knitted stitch off the needle, put the needle in at the back of the same loop and draw the silk through), * i plain, i purl, repeat from * to the end of the round. 55th round — l plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, * i plain, I purl, repeat from * to end of the round. 56th round — same as the 55th round. 57th round— i purl, I plain, raise a stitch (as in 54th round), i plain, i purl, i plain, i purl, raise a stitch, * i purl, i plain, repeat from * to end of the round. 58th round — * i purl, i plain, repeat from * to end of the round. S9th round — same as the 58th round. 6oth round — i plain, I purl, raise a stitch, i plain, I purl, i plain, l purl, i plain, I purl, raise a stitch, * i plain, 1 purl, repeat from * to the end of the round. 6ist round — i plain, l purl, 2 plain, i purl, l plain I purl, I plain, l purl, 2 plain, * i purl, l plain, repeat from * to end of the round. 62nd round — same as the 6 ist round. 63rd round — i purl, I plain, raise a stitch, * I plain, i purl, repeat from * 3 times more, raise a stitch, ** i purl, i plain, repeat from ** to end of the round. 64th and 65th rounds — same as 58th round. 66th round — l plain, I purl, raise a stitch, * i plain, i purl, repeat from * 4 times more, raise a stitch, ** i plain, i purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. 67th round — i plain, i purl, 2 plain, * i purl, i plain, repeat from * 4 times more, 2 plain, ** i purl, i plain, repeat from ** to end of the round. 68th round — same as 67th round. 69th round — i purl, i plain, raise a stitch, * I plain, I purl, repeat from * 5 times more, raise a stitch, ** i purl, i plain, repeat from ** to end of the round. 70th and 71st rounds — same as 58th round. 72nd round — i plain, i purl, raise a stitch, * i plain, I purl, repeat from* 6 times more, raise a stitch, ** i plain, I purl, repeat from **to end of the round. 73rd round — i plain, l purl, 2 plain,* I purl, i plain, repeat from * 6 times more, ** i plain, I purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. 74th round — same as the 73rd round. 75th round — i purl, i plain, raise a stitch, * i plain, I purl, repeat from * 7 times more, raise a stitch, ** I purl, I plain, repeat from ** to the end of the round. 76th and 77th rounds — same as 58th round. 78th round — i plain, i purl, raise a stitch, * i plain, I purl, repeat from * 8 times more, raise a stitch, ** i plain, i purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. 79th round — I plain, i purl, 2 plain, * I purl, I plain, repeat from * 8 times more, ** I plain, i purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. Soth round — same as 79th round. 8 [St round — l purl, i plain, raise a stitch, * i plain, I purl, repeat from * 9 times more, raise a stitch, ** i purl, i plain, repeat from ** to end of the round. S2nd and S3rd rounds — same as 58th round. 84th round — i plain, l purl, raise a stitch, * i plain, I purl, repeat from * 10 times more, raise a stitch,** i plain, i purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. Sjth round — I plain, i purl, 2 plain, ■* I purl, 1 plain, repeat from * 10 times more, ** I plain, i purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. S6th round — same as Sjth round. S7th round — i purl, i plain, raise a stitch,* i plain, i purl, 67 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. repeat from * 1 1 times more, raise a stitch, ** i purl, i plain, repeat from ** to end of the round. 88th and 89th rounds — same as 58th round, goth round — i plain, i purl, raise a stitch, * i plain, 1 purl, repeat from * II times more, raise a stitch, ** i plain, I purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. 91st round — I plain, i purl, 2 plain, * I purl, I plain, repeat from * 12 times more, ** I plain, i purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. 92nd round — same as the 91st round. 93rd round — I purl, i plain, raise a stitch, * i plain, i purl, repeat from * 13 times more, raise a stitch, ** i purl, i plain, repeat from ** to end of the round. 94th and 95th rounds — same as 58th round. 96th round — i plain, i purl, raise a stitch, * i plain, I purl, repeat from * 14 times more, ** i plain, i purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. 97th round — i plain, i purl, 2 plain, * i purl, I plain, repeat from * 14 times more, ** i plain, i purl, repeat from ** to end of the round. 98th round— same as 97th round. 99th round — i purl, i plain, raise a stitch, * i plain, i purl, repeat from * 15 times more, raise a stitch, ** i purl, i plain, repeat from ** to end of the round. looth round — same as 58 th round. 101 st round — in this round you leave the thumb stitches till the rest of the mitten is knitted; I purl, i plain, i purl, take a 5th knitting needle, and on it slip 16 stitches, take a 6th needle, and on it slip 16 stitches, leave these 2 needles and work remainder of the round thus: I plain, * i purl, i plain, repeat from * to end of the round. 102nd round — * i plain, i purl, repeat from * to end of the round. 103rd and 104th rounds — same as io3nd round. 105th round — * I purl, I plain, repeat from * to end of the round. io6th and 107th rounds — same as 105th round. 6 more rounds, same as the last 6 rounds. Then knit 1 plain round, and rib 12 rounds same as ist 12 rounds of the mitten. Cast off. For Thumb. Put 12 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 8 stitches on a 3rd needle; take up 4 stitches where there is the opening, making 36 stitches in all. ist round — * i plain, r purl, repeat from * to end of the round. 2nd round — * i purl, i plain, repeat from * to end of the round. 3rd and 4th rounds — same as 2nd round. 5th, 6th and 7th rounds — same as ist round. Repeat the last 6 rounds once more. 14th round — plain. Then rib 12 rounds same as ist 12 rounds of the mitten. Cast off. This is for the right hand. The left hand mitten is knitted exactly the same, only knitting the thumb at the end of the 3rd needle, commencing the ist raised stitch after the 28th stitch of the 3rd needle is worked, and having only 4 stitches left on the needle. Mind and always have 2 clear stitches at the end of the needle after the raised stitch. PETTICOAT, For Girl of 14. This is an extremely effective' pattern, and can easily be made larger or smaller. The materials required are i lb. of petticoat fleece, crimson is a very good colour, and No. 6 wooden needles. Cast on 252 stitches, do 6_rows plain and^'purl alternately. 7th row — knit I, * make i, knit 3 together ; repeat from * to the end of the row. '.. 'iti W li This is to be turned up and forms a pattern for the bottom. 8th row — * 3 plain, 3 purl; repeat from * to the end of the row. 9th to 1 1 th rows — like the 8th. 1 2th row — *3 purl, 3 plain ; repeat from *. 13th to 15th rows — like the 12th. Repeat from the 8th row until 8 inches are done, * knit 12 stitches plain, knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. (1th row — plain. 5th row — purl. 6th row — plain. Commence from the 8th row till 5 inches more are done, * knit 12 plain, and take 2 together ; repeat from * to the end of the row. Next row purl, next 2 rows plain, next row purl, next row plain. Commence the pattern again for 8 inches. Then do it in ribs 2 plain and 2 purl until 8 inches are done, and cast off Sew it up neatly for 19 inches, work a little crochet edge round the placket hole, sew on a linen band, or knit one in ribbed knitting. GENTLEMAN'S MITTEN. Materials required : — i oz. of soft heather wool and i oz. of black wool, 2 steel needles. No. 15. Cast on 56 stitches, 20 on ist needle, 16 on 2nd, 20 on the 3rd needle. Knit 30 rounds in ribbing of knit 2 and purl 2. 1st pattern round — knit i, purl I all the way round. 2nd and 3rd round — plain knitting. Repeat these 3 rounds 3 times more. 15th round — knit i, purl i, raise i by picking up the loop below the next stitch, knit i, purl i, raise i as before, knit alternately rest of round, knit I, purl i; knit 2 plain rounds. i6th round — knit i, purl i, raise l, purl i, knit l, purl i, knit i, raise i, purl i and knit i alternately rest of round ; knit 2 plain rounds. 19th round — knit i, purl i, raise i, knit I, purl i, knit l, purl i, knit I, purl I, raise i, knit i and purl r rest of round ; knit 2 plain rounds. 22nd round — knit i, purl i, raise i, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I, raise l ; rest of round knit I and purl i alternately. Con- tinue increasing in the above manner by knitting 2 extra stitches before raising the last time until 20 extra stitches are raised. There should be now 40 stitches on the thumb needle, 16 on the 2nd, and 20 on the 3rd. For the thumb— Divide 20 stitches on 3 needles, casting on 2 stitches (which makes 22), 8 on the ist needle, 8 on 2nd, 6 on 3rd. ist and 2nd round— plain knitting. 3rd round— knit I and purl i alternately ; repeat these 3 rounds 4 times more. i6th round — knit 2 and purl 2, knit 2 and purl 2 for 6 rounds, and cast off loosely. Now return to hand-part : pick up 2 stitches at the edge of the thumb ; knit 2 plain rounds. Next round — knit i and purl i alternately, knit 2 plain rounds, and repeat 3 times more ; then knit 2 and purl 2 alternately for 6 rounds, and cast off loosely. GENTLEMAN'S TRAVELLING CAP, Much worn by Naval Officers. Materials required : J lb. of double Berlin wool, navy blue or any other dark shade, 4 steel ; needles, No. 13, Walker's bell gauge. Cast on 127 Istitches and knit i plain and i purl for 72 rows ; ';now cast off 28 stitches for visor, and knit i purl and I plain backwards and forwards for 32 rows, always slipping the Ist stitch. 33rd row— slip Ist stitch, make i by putting wool forward, knit purl and plain till within last stitch of row, then make i, and knit last stitch. 34th row — purl and plain without increasing. 35th row — slip i, rnake I, knit purl and plain till within last stitch of row, then make i, knit last stitch and repeat from 33rd row, increasing 2 stitches every other row until you have made the 28 stitches you cast off; this should form a point at top of visor, taking care to rib the newly made stitches to correspond with rest of cap; join and knit i purl and I plain for 16 rows ; now decrease for crown of cap, com- mencing at centre rib of point, and decrease 6 times in the round, knitting i row between each intake, and repeat this until the cap is reduced to 36 stitches on the needles, then cast off and sew up on wrong side, or if preferred, thread stitches on needle with double black thread, and tie. i •A-S) THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. NECKTIE FOR GENTLEMAN. This pretty and useful necktie will, we have no doubt, be acceptable to many ladies who wish to give their gentlemen friends a piece of their own work. Materials required : — i oz. of best quality knitting silk, and 2 steel knitting needles. No. 14. Our model was knitted in a shade of pearl grey, but crimson, navy, and olive green are all suitable colours. Cast on 50 stitches, and knit in plain rows (garter stitch), always slipping the ist stitch and knitting the back part of the last stitch in each row. When no rows are knitted, the shaping for the neck is commenced, nith row — slip ist stitch, knit I plain, knit 2 together, taking the stitches from the back, knit remainder of the row plain. Repeat the iiith row until there are only 18 stitches remaining on the needle. Knit 144 rows plain like a garter. 287th row — slip ist stitch, knit I plain, increase i stitch by lifting the loop from the row beneath, and knitting it as a stitch, knit remainder of the row plain. Knit 31 rows same as 287th row. There should then be 50 stitches on the needle. Knit no rows same as first no rows, and cast off. Fold the necktie in half lengthwise, and it is ready for use. WAISTCOAT FOR GENTLEMAN. The advantage of working a waistcoat on this principle is, that the fronts only are required, the back being of flannel. Use yarn and No. 14 needles. Commence by knitting the left front as follows : cast on 84 stitches. Knit i row plain. 2nd row — make i, slip I, and knit i ; repeat to end of the row. 3rd [row — bring the wool forward, sUp the next, knit 2 together ; repeat to the end of the row, and continue this row until you have knitted a piece of I2 inches, which brings you to the armhcle. Cast off the first 4 ribs and knit to the end and back. In the next rovv begin decreasing by knitting the 1st slipstitch with the 2 knit together. The next row is not decreased. Repeat these intakes 3 more times, then knit a piece 2-^ inches without decreasing. After that decrease i stitch on the other side of the work, which is the front of the waistcoat, every 3rd row, and increase i on the side which you have previously decreased, also in every 3rd row. When you have knitted what will measure 8 inches from the ist decreasing, and then knitted 2 inches without any decreasing, cast off loosely. The other front is knitted exactly the same. Cut the flannel with the armholes shaped to fix to the fronts. Finish off the edge of the knitted fronts by crocheting 3 chain, i single in 2 rows, if you crochet tightly, if not, i row will be sufficient. BOOT FOR INFANT, FIRST SIZE. A Useful and Simple Pattern. Materials required : i skein of white and i of coloured Andalusian wool, and steel needles. No. 14. If a larger size is wished, Queen's Own or Saxony wool would be suitable, with steel needles No. 13; 1 yard of narrow white ribbon. Cast on with white wool 44 stitches, rib 2 plain and 2 purl for 12 rows. 13th row — * purl 2, plain 2, repeat from * to end of row. 14th row — sameas 13th row. i5throw — * plain 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end of row. 1 6th row — same as 15th; these last 4 rows form the dice pattern. Repeat these last 4 rows 5 times more. 37th and 38th rows — same as 13th and 14th rows. Join on the coloured wool, and knit 4 rows plain. 43rd row (to make holes for the ribbon to pass through)—* make i stitch by putting the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of the row. 44th, 45th and 46th rows — knit plain. 47th row — knit 15 plain, join on the white wool and knit 14 stitches plain, then knit backwards and forwards in the dice pattern for 2 3 rows with the white wool on the centre 14 stitches. Join on the colour and knit on the instep or centre 14 stitches, 6 rows plain. 30th row of instep— narrow i stitch in centre of the row by knitting 2 together, knit remainder of the row plain. 31st row — plain; repeat these 2 last rows 5 times more, then narrow in every row in the same way till all the stitches are off Fasten off the wool. Now take the right hand needle and with it pick up 21 stitches along the white rows of the instep and the plain rows of the coloured wool. There should now be 36 stitches on the needle. Leave the toe and knit in rows of plain knitting, narrowing i stitch by knitting 2 together alternate rows at the toe end of the needle, when there are only 4 stitches to knit 8 times, then narrow at both ends of the needle in the same way 3 times. There should be 22 stitches on the needle. Cast off. Knit 2nd or left side of the boot to match the right side. Sew up the leg with white wool, taking care to match the ribbing and dice patterns neatly. With the coloured wool sew up the foot and sew in the toe part. Put the ribbon through the holes, or if preferred make a cord by crocheting some of the wool with a bone crochet hook in chain stitches, using the wool 4-ply and adding tassels to the ends. DOUBLE BRIOCHE STITCH. This handsome knitted stitch will be found very useful where warmth is required, and is suitable for a gentleman's waistcoat or a lady's jacket. By using coarser needles with the same wool it is more elastic and lighter, and though some may think it a little trouble- some, it well repays the worker. Cast on any number of stitches required that will divide by . 2, on steel or bone needles, No. II, and best quality Berlin wool — our model was knitted in crimson. 1st row — * make a stitch (by put- ting the wool over the needle), shp I stitch as if about to purl it, knit i stitch; repeat from * to end of the row. 2nd row — slip the 1st stitch, knit I, slip the next stitch as if about to purl it (the made stitch of the last row), * knit each of the next 2 stitches, slip the made stitch as before, and repeat from * to end of the row. 3rd row — knit r, make I, slip I as if about to purl it, * knit 2 together (the made stitch and the one that comes under it), make a stitch, slip i as it about to purl it ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 4th row — knit the 1st stitch, placing the wool under the right hand needle, slip the next stitch as if about to purl it, * knit each of the 2 next stitches, slip the next as if about to purl it ; repeat from * to end of row, knitting the last stitch plain. 5th row — slip the ist stitch, knit 2 together (the made stitch and the one thatj comes 69 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, under it), * make a stitch, slip i as if about to purl it, knit 2 together; repeat from * to end of the row. 6th row— slip the ist stitch, knit i, slip i as if about to purl it, * knit each of the next 2 stitches plain, slip the next stitch as if about to purl it ; repeat from * to end of the row. Repeat from the 3rd row till the length reciuired is knitted, and then cast off thus : knit 2 stitches plain, draw the ist stitch over the 2nd stitch, * knit 2 to- gether, and throw the ist stitch over the 2nd stitch, knit 1 stitch plain, draw the ist stitch over the 2nd ; repeat from * till all the stitches are cast off. Crochet. LADY'S UNDER BODICE. This bodice is a very comfortable shape and elastic ; it is not at all bulky. Materials required: 8 ozs. of scarlet Berlin wool, 4-ply fingering or petticoat wool wash better, a medium size bone crochet hook, and II linen buttons are also recjuired. Of course it is always best to work from a pattern, as no two figures are alike. The dimensions of the model are as follows: waist 22, bust 31. The bodice is worked in 5 pieces, back, 2 fronts, 2 sleeves. The stitch used is double crochet, taking up both loops, working backwards and forwards. Commence at bottom of the back. Make a chain of 60. 1st row — I double into and chain and into every chain across row. 2nd row — same as the ist. 3rd row — 12 doubles, decrease by passing over a stitch, 14 doubles, decrease, 14 doubles, decrease; plain to end of row. 4th, 5th, 6th rows — plain. 7th row — decrease 3 times over the places where you did before. 8th, 9th, loth rows —plain. nth row— same as the 7th. 12th, 13th, 14th rows- plain. 15th row— same as 7th. 1 6th, 17th, 1 8th rows — plain. 19th row — sameas7th. 20th, 21st, 22ndrows— plain. 23rdrow— same as 7th. 24th, 25th, 26th rows— plain. 27th row — same as the 7th. 28th to 35th row — plain. 36th row— increase 3 times by working 2 stitches into I exactly over the places where you decreased. You had better run a piece of another coloured wool in to mark the places. 37th to 39th row — plain. 40th row— like the 36th. 41st to 43rd row — plain. 44th row — like the 36th; repeat the 41st to 44th row 4 times more. Now do 8 plain rows. 69th row — miss a stitch at the beginning and end of row. 70th to 75th row — same as 69th. 76th to 88th row — plain. 89th to 93rd row — increase a stitch at the beginning and end of each row. 94th row — ist row of shoulder — decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of row; repeat this row 17 times more, this completes back. For right front make a chain of 48. ist row — double crochet into every stitch. 2nd row — same. 3rd row — 16 double crochet, miss i, 12 double crochet, miss i, plain to end; tie in a piece of another coloured wool to mark your decrease. 4th row — work plain. 5th row — 2 con- secutive double, 3 chain, miss 3 of the double in last row, plain to end of row. The 3 missed stitches are to form buttonhole. 6th row — double all across, working into the 3 chain stitches that you made in the last row. 7th row — decrease twice exactly over where you decreased before. 8th, 9th, loth rows— plain, nth row — decrease twice. 12th row — plain. 13th row — plain; make a button- hole as before. 14th row — plain. 15th row — decrease twice. i6th to 1 8th row— plain. 19th row — decrease twice. 20th row— plain. 70 2 1st row — plain; make a buttonhole. 22nd row — plain. 23rd row — decrease twice. 24th to 26th row — plain. 27th row — decrease twice. 28th row — plain. 29th row— plain; make a buttonhole. 30th to 32nd row — plain. 33rd row — increase twice over the places where you decreased before. 34th, 35th, 36th rows — plain. 37th row — make a buttonhole and increase twice. 38th to 40th row plain. 41st row — increase twice. 42nd to 44th row — plain. 45th row — make a buttonhole and increase twice. 46th to 48th row — plain. 49th row — increase twice. 50th to 52nd row — plain. S3rd row — make a buttonhole and increase. 54th to 56th row— plain. 57th row— increase twice. 58th to 60th row — plain. 6ist row — make a buttonhole. 62nd to 68th row— plain. 6gth row— make a button- hole. 70th row— decrease i stitch at the beginning. 71st row — decrease i stitch at the end; repeat these 2 rows 6 times more, making a buttonhole every 8 rows apart. 84th, 8sih, 86th rows — plain. 87th row— miss i at the end. 88th, 89th, 90th rows —plain. 91st row— miss i at the beginning and end. 92nd row — miss i at the end. 93rd row — miss I at the beginning. 94th row — miss I at the end. 95th row — miss I at the beginning and end. 96th row — miss i at the end. 97th row— miss i at the beginning. Now do 12 rows plain. This completes i front ; make another front exactly the same, both sides are alike, so the same directions will serve, only you do not work any buttonholes. Now thread a wool needle and sew or crochet the bodice together firmly on the shoulders and under the arms. For the sleeves, make a chain of 45. Do 20 rows of plain double crochet. 21st row — * increase 3 times at equal distances, do 3 plain rows, and repeat from * 4 times more. Now work 16 rows, decreasing i stitch at the beginning and endof every row. Make another sleeve the same, and sew or crochet both in, putting the seam where you began and ended your rows, on a level with the 2nd buttonhole from the reck. Now crochet an edge right round bodice and sleeves, i double into a stitch, 3 chain, miss a double, i double, repeat all round; do 2 more rows like this round the neck, that is, 3 chain, i double over every double of last row. Sew on the buttons and the bodice is finished THE "ELFAN" DOLMAN, For a Child of 7 Years, in Point Neige Stitch. This lovely dolman is worked in point neige stitch, and should not be attempted by any but a practised worker, as its beauty depends on the regularity of the stitch. It should also be worked from a pattern, as children vary so much in size, and workers also differ in the tightness or looseness of their v/ork, but our instructions will be found to answer very well for an average child of seven, and for a medium worker. The model was made in white and pink double Berlin, with trimmings of pink satin ribbon, but a more serviceable garment would be made of fawn, cardinal or blue wool. Materials required : — Nearly 2 lbs. of double Berlin, and 3 ozs. of pink ditto, a large bone hook, 2 yards of 2-inch pink satin ribbon, and i^ yards of narrow sarcenet ditto. Commence with the left front at the bottom, make a chain of 42, in this work 19 shells. 2nd row— make a chain of 16, and work 6 shells on it, then join into top of ist shell of 1st row, and work shells on shells to end of row. 3rd row — 10 chain, on which work 3 shells, then join into top of 2nd row as before, and work straight on to end of row. 4th row — 10 chain, into which svork 3 shells, join into 3rd row as before, and work straight on to end of row. 5th row — 8 chain, into which work 2 shells, and continue THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. as before ; you now commence to work plain rows right across, but missing i shell at the beginning of every row ; do 12 rows in this way, you should have 24 shells in the 17th row. 1 8th row— com- mence to work at the 8th shell of the 17th row, work straight across. 19th row— miss i shell at the beginning, work straight across, do 5 more rows like the 19th. 26th row— plain without decreasing; do 4 more rows the same. Next row— miss i at the end of the row, 2 more rows the same. Next row— miss 3 shells, work the 3 next shells, miss I at the end. This completes the shoulder and one front. Do the right front the same, except that your decreasings come at the end of rows instead of the beginning, so that you make your additional chain for the next row before you break off the previous row. The back and sleeves are worked in i piece, ist row — 15 shells. 2nd row— 9 additional shells at each end ; now work straight rows for 9 rows, next row make 5 more shells at the beginning and end. 14th row— 2 more shells at each end. 15th row — i additional shell. i6th row to 32nd row — same as i 5th. Remember that these increasings are to be done each end of your work. 33rd to 35th row — plain. 36th row — work 29 shells, break off; you work right front of cape alone now. 37th row — miss i at the end of row. 38th to 43rd row — same as 37th ; fasten off. This finishes right front of cape. For left front of cape, fasten on at the 29th shell from end in the 36th row. Next row — miss i at the beginning of row. 38th to 43rd row — same as the last. You have now 3 pieces of work, 2 fronts and a back and sleeve cape in one. Now commence to sew them to- gether at shoulders, and under arms. Lay the cape on the front, and sew the shoulders where they fall ; sew firmly. The cape should overlap the armholes about 3 rows. Halve the back, and make a broad box pleat down centre, sewing it firmly in the middle and each side till it reaches the waist, when it should be let fall free. Now crochet a row of double round cape, armholes, and mantle, which is ready for the border. The border is worked separately, and sewn on. You will require three pieces, for cape, all round dolman and neck. Make a chain the length required, having it rather larger than where you will sew it on. ist row, in white wool — miss i chain, * i double into next, I double into next, i double into next, put the wool over the needle as though you were going to treble, and insert in next chain stitch, draw wool through; this gives 3 loops on your needle. Repeat this 3 times more with same stitch — i.e., put wool over needle and insert in stitch, draw wool through; you will have 9 loops on your needle, be sure and do them loosely ; now draw wool through all the loops at once and make a tight chain to catch them together; repeat from * to end of row. Fasten off. 2nd row — fasten on with white wool, put 3 double into the chain that holds the first tufts together, join on the pink wool, draw it through the loop on your needle, make a tuft in centre of the 3 double of last row, * put the pink wool to the back, draw the white through the loop on needle, put 3 double into centre of next tuft, put the white wool back, draw the pink through the loop on needle, make a tuft in centre of next 3 double, and repeat from * to end. Fasten off. 3rd row — join on the white wool, i tuft into first 3 double, 3 double into next tuft, and repeat all along. Sew your trimming on all round, then work your border through it and the mantle, i half treble (wool over needle and insert hook, draw wool through, then through all 3 loops) into ist stitch, * i chain, i treble into next, i long treble into same stitch, i chain, i long treble into next, I chain, I treble into the same, 1 chain, i half treble into next, i half treble into next, and repeat from * all along. The points should come under the pink tufts and between the white ones. You now make a ball fringe to go all round cape and bottom of mantle. Get 2 of the bones used at the mouth of babies' feeding bottles, see both are same size, measure i yard each of pink and white wool, get large wool needle and thread both at once; now take up both bone rings together, and pass needle with wool through centre hole, keeping the last ends firm under the finger, and sew through and through until the bones are thickly covered and the centre hole quite filled up, then get sharp pointed scissors and cut the edge all round in between the bones, part them a little, and tie round in the middle with a bit of stout crochet cotton, then get a bit of white wool 9 inches long, double it, and draw through in a knot about half way, so as to make a loop to hang the ball by, and with the ends tie round in same place as the cotton, then draw bones quite away, cut off any ends of ties and roll the ball in your hands a little, then hold them in steam; the best way is to put a little water in a tea kettle, and it will send steam from spout when boiling, hold 2 or 3 at a time in this to swell out, put the loop that holds the ball between two pointsof edging, pull it out a little way and pass the ball through, draw up tightly, repeat between every point; now crochet 8 pieces of double chain, and finish each with a ball. Sew on at equal distances to fasten mantle. Sew the sarcenet ribbon at inside of waist, cut your wide ribbon into 4 loops of 9 inches, 2 smaller loops, and 2 smaller still, also 2 ends. Make a large bow of 2 ends, 2 long loops and i short one to go at back, finish the top with one of the shortest pieces of ribbon, make another smaller bow of the rest to go at neck, and the dolman is finished. EVENING MANTLE. Sheix Pattern. This elegant mantle is made in a kind of large half square,'in shell or fan pattern ; the neck is formed after the rest of manlJe is finished. You will require 6 ozs. of best white Shetland wool, and 2 ozs. of pale blue, Faudel Phillips' is the best for this purpose, being thicker than most makes; 2 bone crochet hooks, No. 4 and 8, 3* yards of ottoman or satin ribbon, i or 2 inches wide, to match the blue wool used for border. Commence with white wool and coarsest hook, work 6 chain and unite by a slipstitch. ist row — 6 chain, 6 treble (pulling up the strand of each about half an inch of the length of the 6 chain) into the ring ; it must be worked all through like this, or it will lose the shell-like appearance. 2nd row — turn with 6 chain, 6 treble between the ist and 2nd treble stitches of ist row, to form a shell (the 6 chain to count as one of the 6 treble at beginning of row), 6 treble (no chain between the shells) between the last 2 treble stitches, making 2 shells in this row. 3rd row — turn with 6 chain, 6 treble between the ist and 2nd treble of last row, 6 treble between the 3rd and 4th stitches of ist row, 6 treble between the last 2 stitches at end of row; you must always work over the shells of last row, that is to say, 2 rows down, with the ex- ception of beginning and end of row. 4th row — turn with 8 chain and pass over the ist shell, work 6 treble between the 3rd and 4th stitches of next shell 2nd row down (this is to keep it from getting too wide across), 6 treble over next shell, 6 treble at end, 3 shells to end of row. 5th row — turn with 8 chain, pass over 1st shell and work in same way as last row, 3 shells to end 71 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. of row, I double crochet stitch into each of the 8 chain to keep it firm. 6th row — turn with 6 chain, work a shell into hole at end of last row, 4 shells to end of row, i double crochet stitch into end of the 8 chain. 7th row— turn with 6 chain, work in same way as the other rows with 6 chain to turn, 4 shells to end of row. 8th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 shells to end of row. 9th row — turn with 6 chain, 6 shells to end of row. loth row — turn with 6 chain, 7 shells to end of row. nth row — turn with 8 chain to decrease, and work in same way as 4th row, 7 shells to end of row. 12th row— turn with 8 chain, 7 shells to end of row, I double crochet stitch into end of the 8 chain. 13th row— turn with 6 chain, 8 shells to end of row, i double crochet stitch into end of 8 chain. 14th row — turn with 5 chain, 9 shells to end of row. 15th row — turn with 6 chain, 10 shells to end of row. i6th row — turn with 6 chain, 11 shells to end of row. 17th row — turn with 8 chain to decrease, 11 shells to end of row. i8th row — turn with 8 chain, 11 shells to end of row, i double crochet stitch. 19th row — turn with 6 chain, 12 shells to end of row. 20th row— turn with 6 chain, 13 shells to end of row. 21st row — turn with_ 8 chain to decrease, 13 shells to end of row. 22nd row — turn with 8 chain, 13 shells to end of row. 23rd row — turn with 6 chain, 14 shells to end of row. 24th row — turn with 6 chain, 1 5 shells to end of row. 25th row— turn with 6 chain, 16 shells to end of row. 26th row — turn with 6 chain, 17 shells to end of row. 27th row — turn with 8 chain to decrease, 17 shells to end of row. 28th row — turn with 8 chain, 17 shells to end of row. 29th row — turn with 6 chain, 18 shells to end of row. 30th row — turn with 6 chain, 19 shells to end of row. 31st row — turn with 6 chain, 20 shells to end of row. 32nd row — turn with 6 chain, 21 shells to end of row. 33rd row — turn with 8 chain to decrease, 21 shells to end of row. 34th row — turn with 8 chain, 21 shells to end of row. 35th row — turn with 6 chain, 22 shells to end of row. 36th row — turn with 6 chain, 23 shells to end of row. 37th row —turn with 6 chain, 24 shells to end of row. 38th row — turn with 6 chain, 25 shells to end of row. 39th row — turn with 8 chain, 25 shells to end of row. 40th row — turn with 8 chain, 25 shells to end of row. 41st row — turn with 6 chain, 26 shells to end of row. 42nd row — turn with 6 chain, 27 shells to end of row. 43rd row — turn with 6 chain, 28 shells to end of row. 44th row — turn with 6 chain, 29 shells to end of row. 4Sth row — turn with 8 chain, 29 shells to end of row. 46th row — turn with 8 chain, 29 shells to end of row. 47th row — turn \vith 6 chain, 30 shells to end of row. 48th row — turn with 6 chain, 31 shells to end of row. 49th row — turn with 6 chain, 32 shells to end of row. 50th row — turn with 6 chain, 33 shells to end of row. 51st row — turn with 8 chain, 33 shells to end of row. 52nd row— turn with 8 chain, 33 shells to end of row. S3rd row — turn with 6 chain, 34 shells to end of row. 54th row— turn with 6 chain, 35 shells to end of row. 55th row — turn with 6 chain, 36 shells to end of row. s6th row — turn with 6 chain, 37 shells to end of row. S7th row— turn with 8 chain, 37 shells to end of row. 58th row — turn with 8 chain, 37 shells to end of row. 5 9th row — turn with 6 chain, 38 shells to end of row. 6oth row — turn with 6 chain, 39 shells to end of row. 6ist row — turn with 8 chain, 39 shells to end of row. 62nd row — turn with 8 chain, 39 shells to end of row. 63rd row — turn with 6 chain, 40 shells to end of row. 64th row — turn with 6 chain, 41 shells to end of row. 65th row — turn with 6 chain, 42 shells to end of row. 66th row — turn with 6 chain, 43 shells to end of row. 67th row — turn with 8 chain, 43 shells to end of row. 68th row — turn with 8 chain, 43 shells to end of row. 69th row— turn with 6 chain, 44 shells to end of row. 70th row — turn with 6 chain, 45 shells to end. 71st row — turn with 8 chain, 45 shells to end of row. 72nd row — turn with 8 chain, 45 shells to end of row. 73rd row — turn with 6 chain, 46 shells to end of row. 74th row — turn with 6 chain, 47 shells to end of row. 75th row — turn with 6 chain, 48 shells to end of row. 76th row — turn with 6 chain, 49 shells to end of row. 77th row — turn with 8 chain, 49 shells to end of row. 78th row — turn with 8 chain, 49 shells to end of row. 79th row — turn with 6 chain, 50 shells to end of row. 80th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 1 shells to end of row. This finishes the half square ready for The Border. Fasten on blue wool and use the finest hook. No. 8; work a row of I chain, 3 treble all round the mantle, increasing at each corner and point at back by working 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, instead of 3 treble, i chain ; work in this way at equal distances. 2nd row — with white wool work in exactly the same way, not forgetting the increasings at the corners and point. 3rd row — with blue wool, the same. For the Edge. In blue; begin at the last hole down front, and work 3 chain, i double crochet into the corner hole, * 3 chain, draw up the wool 72 loosely on to your hook, which is done by throwing the wool over hook, draw up 9 loops in this way, which will look like 18, but is really only 9, unite these by i chain, 3 chain, i double crochet into same hole, this forms a raised knob, 3 chain, i double crochet into next hole, 3 chain, i double crochet into next hole, repeat from * for second knob, work in this way all round the mantle. Last row, which forms a scalloped edge, also in blue, work 3 chain, i treble into the corner hole, or knob, that is to say, into the little hole made by i chain in previous row, 5 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain stitch to form a picot, i treble into same hole, repeat for 6 times more, making 7 picots, * 3 chain, I double crochet into the double crochet stitch of last row, 3 chain, I treble into 2nd knob, 5 chain, the last caught back into the first chain stitch to form a picot, i treble, work 5 of these picots into each knob, and 3 chain, i double crochet into same hole, repeat from * all round mantle, increasing at the point and other corner by working 7 picots instead of 5. For the Neck. Turn over 14 patterns of the border on to the right side, 7 each side of the middle of straight piece, graduate it from the back of neck to come in a point at the fronts, then with blue wool work on the top of the turned over piece through the white part 3 treble, i chain at equal distances, making about 32 holes along, break off, and work just the same scalloped edge as round mantle. 1st row — with the raised knobs. 2nd row — with the picots. Run the rib- bon in and out of the holes, leaving long ends to tie at the neck. Make a bow of loops and long ends, and sew on the back of neck, to fall down over the shoulders ; this completes the mantle. OPERA HOOD. To Match Evening Mantle. Materials required : — 2 ozs. of best white .Shetland wool, and i oz. of pale blue do, 2 bone hooks, No. 4 and 8. 3^ yards of satin or ottoman ribbon, about an inch and a half or 2 inches wide, to match blue wool used for the border. Commence with the coarsest hook No. 4, and white wool, by working 6 chain, unite into a ring by a slipstitch. 1st row — 6 chain, 6 treble, each one drawn up to the length of the 6 chain. 2nd row — turn with 6 chain, 6 treble between the ist and 2nd treble stitches to form a shell, 6 treble (no chain between) into the last 2 stitches, or, rather, between them,to form another shell. 3rd row — turn with 6 chain, 6 treble between the 1st and 2nd treble of last row, 6 treble between the 3rd and 4th stitches of i st row, 6 treble between the last 2 stitches at end, 3 shells to end of row ; you always work over the shells of last row, that is to say, 2 rows down, with the exception of beginning and end of rows. 4th row — turn with 8 chain, pass over the ist shell, entirely, this to decrease, and keep it from getting too wide across, 6 treble between the 3rd and 4th stitches of next shell 2nd row down, 6 treble over next shell, 6 treble at end, 3 shells to end of row. 5th row — turn with 8 chain, work in same way, i double crochet stitch into end of the 8 chain to keep it firm, 3 shells to end of row. 6th row — turn with 6 chain, and work a shell between the last 2 treble stitches of previous row, 4 shells to end of row, you always increase a shell in every row where you turn with 6 chain, and pass over one when you turn with 8 chain. 7th row — turn with 6 chain, 5 shells to end of row. 8th row — turn with 6 chain, 6 shells to end of row. 9th row — turn with 8 chain, 5 shells to end of row. loth row — turn with 6 chain, 6 shells to end of row. nth row — THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, turn with 6 chain, 7 shells to end of row. 12th row — turn with 6 hain, 8 shells to end of row. 13th row — turn with 6 chain, 9 shells end of row 14th row — turn with 8 chain, 9 shells to end of row. with row — turn with 8 chain, 9 shells to end of row. i6th row — turn with 6 chain, 10 shells to end of row. 17th row — turn with 6 chain, 11 shells to end of row. i8th row— turn with 8 chain, 11 shells to end of row. 19th row — turn with 8 chain, 1 1 shells to end of row. 20th row — turn with 6 chain, 12 shells to end of row. 21st row — turn with 6 chain, 13 shells to end of row. 22nd row — turn 15th 6 chain, 14 shells to end of row. 23rd row — turn with 6 chain, 1 5 shells to end of row. 24th row — -turn with 8 chain, 1 5 shells to end of row. 25th row — turn with 8 chain, 15 shells to end of row. 26th row — turn with 6 chain, 16 shells to end of row. 27th row — turn with 6 chain, 17 shells to end of row. 28th row — turn with 6 chain, 18 shells to end of row. 29th row — turn with 6 chain, 19 shells to end of row. 30th row — turn with 8 chain, 19 shells to end of row. 31st row — turn with 8 chain, ig shells to end of row. 32nd row — turn with 6 chain, 20 shells to end of row. 33rd row — turn with 6 chain, 21 shells to end of row. 34th row — turn with 6 chain, 22 shells to end of row. 35th row — turn with 6 chain, 23 shells to end of row. 36th row — turn with 8 chain, 23 shells to end of row. 37th row — turn with 8 chain, 23 shells to end of row. 38th row — turn with 6 chain, 24 shells to end of row. 39th row — turn with 6 chain, 25 shells to end of row. 40th row — turn with 6 chain, 26 shells to end of row. 41st row — turn with 6 chain, 27 shells to end of row. 42nd row — turn with 8 chain, 27 shells to end of row. 43rd row — turn with 8 chain, 27 shells to end of row. 44th row — turn with 6 chain, 28 shells to end of row. 45th row — turn with 6 chain, 29 shells to end of row. 46th row — turn with 6 chain, 30 shells to end of row. This finishes the half square ready for the border ; fasten on blue wool, and use the finest hook, begin at the comer, not point, work 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the corner, i chain, 3 treble at equal distances all round the half square, increas- ing at point and other corner by working 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble. 2nd row — slip wool back into the last hole before the corner, * 3 chain, i double crochet into the corner hole, 3 chain, draw up 9 loops loosely on to your hook by throwing wool over hook, and draw up, it looks like 18 loops, but is in reality only 9, unite these by I chain, 3 chain, i double crochet into same hole as the knob, 3 chain, i double crochet into next hole, repeat from * for 2nd knob, 3 chain, i double crochet into next hole, work in this way all round. 3rd row — for the scalloped edge, 3 chain, i treble into little hole of knob made by i chain, * 5 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain stitch to form a picot, I treble, work 7 of these picots into the same hole, 3 chain, i double crochet into the double crochet stitch of last row, 3 chain, i treble into 2nd knob, work 5 of these picots in same way from *, 3 chain, i double crochet into double crochet stitch of last row, work in this way all round, but work 7 picots into the point and 2nd corner instead of 5, it is now ready for the ribbon. Fold, the work exactly in half, and run the ribbon in from the 8th scallop from bottom or corners round to the centre pattern of back to shape of head, leaving it like a curtain all round the back, and lappets in the front, tie in a nice bow and ends at back, fasten each side of front with a needle and cotton, and run a piece of ribbon round the front leaving long ends to tie for strings, make a bow which sew on to the top of hood, when you will find it is very becoming and pretty, and is also useful for the garden. DOLL'S HAT. Gainsborough Shape. This small article of attire is made with a fine bone crochet hook; i oz. of white or coloured Andalusian wool is required. The wool is used double to make the work very firm. The feather looks well made of two colours instead of one, for which one ply of each colour is to be worked together. To begin, wind the wool once round the forefinger of the left hand, so as to form a ring of the double wool. Take the ring thus formed off the finger, holding it in shape between finger and thumb, put the needle through the ring, draw the wool through, work i chain, work 4 double into the ring, draw the loose end of wool tightly, so as to close the ring. 2nd row — 2 doubles into each of the 4 doubles. 3rd row — 2 doubles into each double of last row. 4th row — * i double in ist double of last row, 1 double in next, 2 double in next, repeat from * 4 times more. Continue crocheting round and round, increasing so as to keep the work very flat, until 7 rounds are worked. Work 5 rounds without increasing. Now begin the rim by working 2 double into each double of last round. Break off the wool. Join it on again, 7 stitches back and work round and round for 4 more rounds without increasing. Break off the wool. Turn up the rim of the hat at the side with the extra row of 7 stitches. For feather — make 5 chain stitches, put the needle through the 4th wind the wool twice over the needle and forefinger, draw these loops through the 2 loops on the needle, make I chain, work in this way into each stitch. 2nd row — work i single stitch in each stitch of 1st row. Repeat these two rows until enough is worked to go round the front, drooping side and back of the hat. Fasten off and stitch the feather in its place. Trim the other side of hat with 2 little woollen balls, made in the following way — twine the double wool 40 times round the first and second fingers of left hand. Before slipping it off the fingers secure the strands of wool very strongly by tying them together in the middle. Cut the ends of the wool off so as to make the little balls nice and round, then sew the 2 on the hat at the side turned up between the rim and the crown. Sew on a small piece of fine elastic to keep the hat on the doll's head. The size and even the shape of this little hat can easily be varied by a handy worker, according to her fancy. Ribbon can also be used as a trimming instead of the balls and imitation feather. DOLL DRESSED AS A FISHWIFE. Materials required: — 1 oz. navy blue wool, I oz. white wool and a little scarlet, a rather fine bone hook. Petticoat.— yisk^yj chain with white wool, and work 36 double crochet. 2ndrow — work 27 stitches, turn and work these same stitches back again for the 3rd row. 4th row — work the whole number, that is, 36. 5th row— work 36 stitches. 6th row — re- peat from the 2nd row till you have 42 rows in all, and join the petticoat up nearly to the top, running a cord through to tie. For the frock skirt.—yizkt. 34 chain with white wool, and work 33 stitches lor 2 rows, then 2 rows with the navy blue wool, and continue working thus in stripes of 2 rows white and 2 rows navy blue till you have 24 stripes, 12 of each, and 48 rows in all. This com- pletes the skirt. Thebodice is worked in crazy stitch with navy blue wool. Take up the stitches round one end of the skirt in crazy stitch, thus : I single cro- chet, 3 chain, 2 treble into the same as the single crochet, and repeat this 16 times, which forms the width of the bodice. Work backwards and forwards, turning every row with 3 chain, for 6 rows. 7th row — work 5 crazy stitches, make 6 chain, work 7, make 6 chain, work 5. 8th row — work 5, work 2 crazy stitches on the 6 chain, work 7, work 2 on the 6 chain, work 5, work 3 rows more, and then 2 rows, missing over every 3rd stitch, and carrying the rows half way down the sides. For the sleeve make 16 chain, on which work S crazy stitches, putting I into eveiy other chain. Work backwards and forwards for 8 rows, always tui ning with 3 chain, and in the 9th row miss over every other stitch, thus ending with only 4 crazy stitches. Join up the sleeves and sew them into the armholes. Sew up the skirt and the bodice half way, as the upper part of the bodice is to fall back a little, to show the little white three-cornered piece, like a habit shirt showing under the bodice. For this make 30 chain with the white wool and make i crazy stitch into everj' 3rd chain. Turn back with 3 chain, and decrease i at the end of the row, and repeat this row, decreasing at the same end till you have done 12 rows. Work i row all round. This piece is to be fastened with a string round the neck and waist, one point being at the waist, and THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, the dress put on so as to show it in front. Apron. — Make 27 chain with the white wool and work 21 rows in double crochet. The apron is to be used with the rows running downwards. Work I row of crazy stitch across i short end for an edge. At the other end for the band and string to tie round the waist, work 13 double crochet on to the apron, make 35 chain, work back in double crochet, work along the 13 stitches of the previous row, make 35 chain, and work back in double crochet, fastening off neatly. Make a little pocket with the dark blue wool, with 10 chain, work 2 rows double crochet, then decrease at each end for 2 rows more, and sew it on to the front of the apron. Cap. — With white wool make 4 chain, and join in a ring. Work 8 double crochet in the ring. 1st row — I double crochet into the first of the previous row, 3 chain, * I double crochet into the next of the previous row, 3 chain, and repeat from *. 2nd row — i double crochet into the loop of 3 chain, 4 chain, and repeat from the beginning of the row. 3rd row — the same, but making 5 chain instead of 4. 4th row — the same, but making 6 chain instead of 5. 5th row — The same, but making 7 chain instead of 6. 6th row — 3 double crochet into every loop till you come to the last 5, which you leave, and draw them up with a thread for the back of the neck. Make a chain of wool and run it through the other loops to tie under the chin. Shawl for the head. — With white wool make 6 chain, and work in double crochet. 2nd row — increase at the end. Join on the red wool and increase at the end, and the next row the same. * Then 2 rows white, increasing at the end of each row. Then 2 rows red, increasing at the end of each row. Repeat from * till you have 16 rows in all, that is, 8 stripes of each colour. Then increase 3 at the end of each row by making 3 chain, on which you work in the next row, till you have 24 rows in all. Work 2 rows of crazy stitch, going along the in- creased ends and where you began. The shawl is put on to hang down the back of the head. The last double crochet row goes across the head, and the 2 ends are folded under the point which hangs down the doll's back. Shawl. — This is in the form of a little crossover, tied round the neck. With red wool make 6 chain, join in a ring, into which put 7 treble, ist row — 3 chain, i treble between the 1st and 2nd treble ol the previous row, 2 treble between the 3rd and 4th, 4 treble between the 4th and 5th, 2 treble between the Sth and 6th, 2 treble between the 6th and 7th. Begin every row with 3 chain, and work always in groups of 2 treble, with 4 treble into the group of 4 treble in the previous row. Work 10 rows in all, and I row of crazy stitch all round for a border. Run a cord in to tie round the neck. ..r^i^ TRlxAIMING FOR INFANTS' PELISSES, &c. The following forms a serviceable trimming for children's dresses; it can also be adapted for many other purposes. It can be worked in single or double Berlin wool, crewels, &c. ist row — 16 chain, * i single crochet in 6th stitch from the hook, 6 chain, i single crochet twice more in the same hole, 16 chain, repeat from *. 2nd row, on opposite side — * I single crochet exactly in the centre of the 3 picots in previous row, 6 chain, I single crochet in same hole twice more, thus making 3 picots, corresponding with the other 3, single crochet in every chain until you come to the next 3 picots, repeat from * the length required. Care must be taken to keep the work even and firm, without being very tight, and in placing the trimming on the garment, be sure and put an invisible stitch at the end of each picot to keep it flat. BOYS' SXJIT8. OVERCOATS, ULSTERS, &c. Illustrating i6o various Suits for all Ages, with plain descriptions for cutting out and making up. Also all articles of Boys' Underclothing, Dressing Gowns, &c. Of all Newsagents, or post free, 2\d., from Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet St., London. 74 DOLL DRESSED IN WOOL AND SILK. This suit will fit a doll about 14 inches in length. The garments are 4 in number — petticoat, frock, cap, and stockings and boots, which are made all in one. Materials required — about ^ oz. of white wool for the petticoat, i-J ozs. of bronze green wool, Andalusian, or any soft kind, some pale blue knitting silk, and a very small quantity of black knitting silk. Use an ordinary sized crochet hook. Petti- coat. — With the white wool make 32 chain, and work i treble into each stitch. Work backwards and forwards till the petti- coat is large enough, beginning each row with 3 chain, which stand for \ treble. About 24 rows will be sufficient. Work a scallop round the edge of 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, all into the same hole, I double crochet, and repeat all round. Make a cord of chain about \ a yard in length, with a tassel each end, and run it in to tie round the waist. Frock. — With the bronze green wool make 70 chain, join, and work round in double crochet, i into every stitch. Work 40 rows for the skirt. Next row take 2 to- gether all the way. Then 2 rows without any decreasing. Then increase to 60 stitches. Work I row, and then work in alternate rows of silk and wool, till 6 stripes of each are done. The rest is in silk. Work 10 stitches, turn back and work 20. These are for the back. Work back- wards and forwards 5 rows more. Leave 5 stitches each side of this piece, and work the same for the front, 6 rows. Then take all the stitches and work 3 rows all round. For the sleeves, take up the stitches left at the armhole, 14 in all, with the wool, and work in alternate rounds of wool and silk for 6 rows. Then work 5 rows in silk, and an edge row of i double crochet, * 3 chain, i double crochet into the next stitch, and repeat from * all round. For the ruche to trim the skirt, make * i double crochet, 3 chain, miss I, and repeat from * all round. This will fall at the edge of the skirt. Then on the top of this, that is, on the ist row of the skirt, work another row the same, and then another row above that. Then 2 ruches of the same are added down the skirt, sloping from the waist gradually wider towards the edge of the skirt to meet the ruche at the bottom. The 3 rows in each ruche should be pretty close together. All this trimming is done in the blue silk. Add an edge at the neck of I double crochet,* 3 chain, miss 2, and I double crochet into the next ; repeat from * all round, and work a 2nd row to fall below of * i double crochet, 3 chain, miss i, and repeat all round from *. Run a cord of chain made of wool in the neck, with tassels at the ends. Make a chain nearly a yard long of blue silk to run in at the waist, with tassels at the ends, and make another cord of the same about \ a yard in length, which is to be slipped in at the front of the waist, and hangs down in front. For the cap, which is a Tam o' Shanter in shape and made in the blue silk, make 5 chain, join into a circle and work 2 double crochet into THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. each stitch. Then increase 3 stitches in every row till the i6th row, when you will have 55 stitches. Work i row without increasing. Then decrease 3 every row till the cap fits the doll's head, when you have 42 stitches it will probably do. Work 2 rows of single crochet, I into every stitch, for the band. Add a tuft of the bronze wool at the top of the cap, and another under the brim near the front. For the stockings and boots, which are worked all in one, make 20 chain with the blue silk, and work backwards and forwards for 1 5 rows. Then work on the 4 centre stitches only for the instep, for 4 rows. The rest is done in black knitting silk. Take up the stitches all round the blue, about 25 in all. Work 3 rows, increasing at the 2 toe corners, then 2 rows, decreasing each end at the heel, and without increasing at the toes. Sew it up down the leg and the sole. Add a little bow of the black silk folded together tied in the middle, with a white button sewn on, and sew the bow on the toes SLIPPER WATCH-POCKET. To make this novel little article, i oz. of pink Andalusian wool and a fine bone crochet hook are required. When making it up a piece of cardboard to stiffen the sole and a brass hook on which to hang the watch will be used. It is trimmed with i yard of narrow pink ribbon. For the sole — work a chain of 9 stitches, ist row — work 8 double stitches into the chain, make 2 chain, only work through the back loop. 2nd row — work 9 double stitches, make 2 chain. 3rd row — work 10 double stitches, make 2 chain. 4th row — work 11 double stitches, make 2 chain. 5th row — work 12 double stitches, make i chain. 6th, 7th, and Sth rows — same as, 5th row. 9th row — miss i, work 1 1 doubles,make I chain. loth row — miss i, work 10 doubles, make i chain, nth row — miss i, work 9 dou- bles, make i chain. 12th row — miss i, work 8 douijles, make i chain. 13th row — work 8 doubles, make i chain. 14th, 15th, and i6th rows — same as 13th row. 17th row — make I chain, work 9 doubles, make 2 chain. i8th row — work 10 doubles, make 2 chain. 19th row — work II doubles, make 2 chain. 20th row- work 12 doubles, make 2 chain. Work 4 more rows, increasing in the same way. 25th row — work 17 doubles, make i chain. 26th, 27th, 28th, and 29th rows— same as 25th row. 30th row — miss i, work 16 doubles, make i chain. Work 8 more rows, decreasing in the same way. Finish round the edge of the sole by working double stitch, making I double stitch into the edge of each row. Work a second sole in exactly the same way. Cut out the shape in cardboard. Place the cardboard sole between the woollen soles, which are to be joined in the following way — put the needle through both loops of a stitch in the row of double crochet round the sole next the worker, and through both loops of the corresponding stitch in the second sole, work I double, join thus all round. For toe of slipper — work a chain of 9 stitches, ist row — work 8 double stitches, make 2 chain. 2nd row — work 9 doubles, make 2 chain. 3rd row — work 10 doubles, make 2 chain. 4th row — work 1 1 doubles, make 2 chain. 5th row — work 12 doubles, make 3 chain. 6th row — work 14 doubles, make 3 chain. 7th row — work 16 doubles, make 2 chain. Work 6 more rows, increasing as in the 7th row. At the end of the last of these seven rows, make 3 chain instead of 2 chain. 14th row — *work i double in the last of the 3 chain, i treble in the next, miss 2 stitches on the last row, l double in the next, work 3 chain, repeat from * all along the row. Join the toe to the sole with double stitch in the same as the upper and lower halves of the sole were joined together. Trim the toe with a tiny rosette made of narrow pink ribbon. Sew a loop of the ribbon, 2 or 3 inches long, to the back of the slipper at the heel to hang up the watch-pocket by. Finish the top of the loop with a bow of the ribbon. Place a second rosette on the sole, at the centre of the heel part, on the top of which rosette fasten the brass hook from which the watch is to be suspended. This completes the prettylittle watch-pocket, which can also be made with very good effect of loom thread No. 12, worked with a coarse steel crochet hook and trimmed with coloured ribbon. Loom thread is only made i§cru colour ; it can be had from A. E. K., Box 10, Post Office, Ballymena, Ireland. It is a very inexpensive material for crochet and knitting, as the skeins contain a large quantity. A skein of No. 12 contains 3 ounces, and can be obtained for tenpence, post free. An elegant case, in cloth gilt, for binding the first twelve numbers of The Fancy Wokk-Basic!!,t, with title and contents, is now ready, price \s. yi. Volume I., neaily and elegantly bound, maybe had for y., or 3^. td., post free. A useful and beautiful gift book. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. In compliance with the request of numerous subscribers, we have decided to open a column in which we will answer any queries relating to Fancy Work. Such queries should be written clearly on one side of the paper only, and headed " Work-Basket,'' and should reach us not later than the 14th of the month to ensure reply in next issue. A nam de plume must be affixed to each ANSWERS. OriAH. — We have given several leaf patterns, both in shawls and simply as patterns. What is the particular form of the oak-leaf ? Perhaps some of our subscribers can oblige. J. J. — Walker's Bell gauge is a test for crochet hooks. We believe a few makers number them. The principal thing is to use needle to suit the garment. Thanks very much for your flattering opinion, which we are pleased to say is endorsed by many. We use all our efforts to make the Work-Basket thoroughly reliable and useful. L. F. C. — Berlin wool slippers are now quite out of date. If you cannot crewel a pair why not knit or crochet them, using double Berlin in shades of art green or crimson ? There have been many patterns given both in knitting and crochet which could easily be enlarged. Miss B. — Through a printer's error part of the letterpress was put in a wrong place. We endeavoured to remedy this by printing an erratum slip. The error was remedied in subsequent editions. Old Elwet. — We have nut yet published drawers for 7 years, but a pair for 6 years was given in No. 8 which would, we should think, be large enough, as they are very elastic. S. W. — We know of no work on paper flowers — at least a reliable one. We do not purpose giving directions because we do not think the subject a general one. G. G. J. — We will try and insert a cape in loop knitting later on. Full instructions for making one for a child were given in No. 4. We feel ex- ceedingly gratified at your commendations. We use every effort to please. MorsiE. — Send i\d. for No. 4, which contains directions for gentlemen's gloves in "Knitting.'' Al-ICE. — I. Which hood do you mean? We have given several patterns. A very pretty one is in No. 15, price i^., post Jree. It is hght and easily made. 2. We will give a pattern for babies' tricot boots in an early number. Miss Thomas. — In No. 13 are given directions for knitting a petticoat of the shape and pattern mentioned. The top is in tricot, but this you could easily alter by knitting in ribs after you have finished the kilted flounce, or you could carry the kilt to I he waist, but this would be very thick. If you do the ribbed top, recrease about every 6th ro-.v. Dieppe. — Lewis & Allenby's, Regent Street, have the tablecloths shewn in Paisley Appliqufe. We wid inquire where you can get the material similar to the Paisley shawls, and forward to you if you send a stamped directed envelope. It can be done on plain cloth or serge. The waistcoat you would have to cut out as an ordinary front for a dress. We can send you a pattern, ready traced, like those that have appeared in the " Work- Baskf.t," for 2J. 6(/. Sarah. — You will find full directions for making a tufted Tam O'Shanter, wliich sets beautifully, in December issue. Ifyou require a plain one, gtt No. 4. SALE AND EXCHANGE. In compliance with the request of nimieroaa suhacrihers, u-e have decided to open a column for the Sale or Hxchanfje of Ladus' Work, the cltarge fur which will he 'id. for every 8 words. No trade announcements of anij hind will Ije inserted. J^'or the convenience of those suhscrihers who do not icish their addresses to appear, we will a§i.v a number to their advertisement and receive ansicers at this o^ce at a further charge of Is. per month. Replies to such advertisements must Ve enclosed in a stamped envelope, ivith the numher of advertisement written in the left-hand corner, readu for re-direction, and he sent under cover to the Editress, S, Johnson's Court Fleet Street, London, K.C. Beautiful Handwork Embroidery for trimming underlinen, strips : ij yard long, zd. and '^t. each ; wide, 6./., S(/., and lod. Approval free. No post cards. — Miss Margarets, Buckhorn, Weston Wincanton, Bath. Elegant Counterpane, turkey twill, and white calico. Coloured Illus- tration, Model, and Instructions, 9 stamps. — Clifford, Newport, Moo. Tatting, 6 yards, iod.; 16 lovely wide, li. 2d., postal notes preferred. — Miss Cav.\n.\gh, Bewsey Street, Warrington. For Sale or Exchange. — Very handsome new costume of fine cream serge, worked with crimson silk, to fit child from 3 to 4. Cost £2. Oflfers requested. — S., care of the Editress. The Creeve Knitting Card. Rules and scale, for knitting stockings and socks of any size. A perfect fit ensured. By A. E. K. Price 3(/. each post free. — Box 10 P.O., I3allymena, Ireland. 75 Art-Needlework. No. 12. Toilet Set. No. 12. Toilet Set. This set will look very well worked on oatmeal or Zulu cloth with filoselle silk, mid -blue or dark blue. The set of seven pieces may be obtained, ready traced on Zulu cloth and fringed, for is. 4 ♦ <•► On the Painting of various Articles for our Homes. Chapter II. Memoranda Slates. In our former paper we endeavoured to give a few simple hints on painting glass photograph frames and milking stools, in the present chapter the subject shall be memoranda slates. These slates being the ordinary kind used by children, are most useful, and when effectively and artistically painted form quite an ornament to any room. Designs consisting of flowers are best adapted for this style of work. The groundwork of a slate being so dark, care must be taken to choose suitable flowers, that is, suitable in colour. For instance, one of these slates was ornamented with a spray of scarlet poppies. The flowers themselves were painted well, but the effect was a failure, the scarlet looking dead and dingy against the dark slate colour. Nothing looks so bright and pretty as pink, white, and yellow, such as king-cups, large ox-eyes, pink poppies, &c. The design for Fig. 3 is simple and effective, being yellow daisies, white poppies, and grasses. The materials required are the same as for painting on glass, namely, box of oil paints, containing paints, palette, palette knife, brushes, and dipper. Besides this box, a small bottle of turpentine, and a bottle of mirror medium, 6d. Our readers may be surprised at our recommending the latter, but we have found that the medium helps the paint to dry quickly, which is an advantage, especially if one is in a huny. The design can be copied on to the slate or traced. For the benefit of those who have not seen the foregoing chapter we will endeavour to describe the process of tracing as clearly as possible. Of course, as you will observe, the design here given is considerably reduced in size, there- fore it must be enlarged by copying it in a larger size on to paper, from this copy it can be traced on to the slate with white chalk, which can be seen better on a dark ground than lead pencil. Lay a piece Vol. II.-No. 17. of vegetable tracing paper (which can be procured at an artist s colourman for threepence or fourpence a sheet) upon the enlarged copy, then go over the owiMne with a rather hard pencil. This done, remove the tracing paper and rub some white chalk over the hack of the paper. Now lay the challced side of the tracing paper upon the slate, and holding it down firmly and steadily with one hand, go over the outline (bearing rather hard) with a pencil. On removing the paper the outline in chalk will be seen described on the slate. Now set your palette preparatory to painting. The term " set your palette" means, put on to the palette all the paints that will be re- quired, namely, flake white, pale and deep chrome yellow, raw sienna, ivory black, permanent blue, Antwerp blue, cS:c When using oils the shadows are usually painted in first. The colour for the shadows of the white poppies would be grey ; for this mix flake white, pale chrome, and a little ivory black. This must be painted over the four petals of the flower. ^Vhen done and the paint is quite dry, the oval mark on the petals and the lights must be con- sidered. The former is of a purple tint, which can be made with Antwerp blue and crimson lake ; the latter is, of course, pure white. The centre of the poppy is green, dark and glossy. The daisies must be painted in with deep chrome first, and then lighted with pale chrome mixed with flake white. Further shading with faint sepia will be required. The centres are deep chrome yellow. The leaves demand our attention next. Those of the poppy are of a bright, glossy, dark green. Raw sienna, Antwerp blue, and a little flake white would form the foundation colour. Mix a little indigo and raw sienna for the deep shadows. For the lights, mix emerald green, pale chrome, and flake white. The bud is of this colour. The hairs on the stalk and bud must not be forgotten. The leaves of the daisy are of a soft blue-green. To get the colour, mix per- manent blue, emerald green, and deep chrome. Outline them first. For the shadows, mix burnt sienna, Antwerp blue, and deep chrome. Put this shadow cover all over the leaf, taking care to keep the serrations clear and defined ; then take the light colour in a clean brush and put on the lights ver)' carefully where you see them. For the high lights, use permanent blue, pale chrome (a very little of the latter), and a large proportion of flake white. The grasses must be painted in with a rather small brush. The colours would be yellow, brown, and green, not mixed, but put on in little dabs or dots separately, only quite close to each other. Another pretty design for a memoranda slate is white convolvulus or great bindweed. This is ver>' effective when well painted. No blues look well on slate, nor crimsons ; yellow is about tire best colour. To make the slate perfect a pencil should be attached to the frame. In our next chapter we will endeavour to give a few hints on painting splash screens . {To he continxied.) SUBSCRIPTION FORM FOR MRS. LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET. NOTICE. Subscribers unable to procure the above from their Xewsagent can have it forwarded direct from the Publisher for Twelve months, post free, for Thirty Stamps. To the Pdblisheb, Please to forward me MKS. LEACH'S rFTLJSrCX" -WOieiKI-B JLS3CET For Ticclrc Months, addressed to Mrs.. 2s. 6d. enclosed. Commtnce with No. for.. esr This Subscription entitles you to any Extra Nos. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Art Needlework. Fig. I. Arabesque embroidery is most effective for sofa-pillows, table- cloth borders, &c., and is much more quickly done than at the first glance one would imagine. A circular centre for a pillow with a border of deep cardinal satin in this style of work is exceedingly pretty. We give a section (Fig. i). The foundation is light olive cloth, with the design worked in satin, chain, and cording stitches, with olive-green darker than the cloth. Two shades of blue, red, and dark brown Andalusian wool or embroidery silk are employed. Fig. 2. By copying the illustration and colouring it to match the various shades used in working a better idea can be gained of what the effect will be, but the outline should be done in the darker shade. 78 Fig. 2 is for a border for table-covers, five o'clock ditto, curtain bands or borders, &c. Java canvas is the foundation. Filoselle or crewels of three colours are needed, purse silk of two colours, and gold cord to edge the arabesques. Inside the leaves is simply feather stitches of the crewels and purse silk. The pattern would look equally well worked on cloth foundation. The Bulgarian work, or Toile crossi, to which we have referred in a previous article on "Art Needlework," is well worth the notice of our readers, it is so very effective, although quickly done. A number of ladies cannot spare the time for elaborate fancy work, or have not the patience to do it, therefore anything that can soon be " out of hand " is acceptable. Cloth is generally bought perforated ready for working, but it can easily be done with the aid of a stiletto, if the pattern is traced and the holes made at a regular distance from each other. This piercing should be done on an old wooden table or a piece of board, taking care the hole is not too large. Berlin wool, or crewels and silks combined, cause a charming appearance, either in the same shades or contrasting colours. Pale blue and cardinal, for instance, on an olive-green cloth would be charming for a tea cosy and a variety of other articles, both useful and orna- mental. Two inch squares of cloth thus perforated and worked with different coloured crewels, wool, silks, &c., and with a border of two or three other colours in cloth or silk, would make a lovely quilt or sofa blanket. For instance, a two inch square of dark cloth, velvet, or satin, a border of about an inch and a half of blue, and then another of the same width in scarlet, or olive-green, would be effective, or light blue and cardinal, with a Maltese cross or diamond in the centre square, worked in long stitch with herring- bone between of one of the border colours, or both, according to the taste of the worker and degree of brightness required (see Fig. 3). Squares of satin and crosses of the same material are also let in with great effect. An exceedingly pretty tea cosy of sage-green cloth had diamonds of cardinal satin let in, the pattern being Fig. 3. worked from hole to hole with pale blue and cardinal filoselle. A thick cord introducing all the colours employed surrounded the cosy, which was lined with cardinal satin, although sateen can be used if expense is an object. Charming little mats and d'oyleys may be made quickly by merely laying on a star, cross, or diamond in a contrasting colour and working herring-bone, or crossing one shade and fastening it down with another. Another quick style, and yet effective, though cheap, are the perforated wall-pockets, paper-racks, mats, &c., in leather colour and silver cardboard. Many are the designs that can be worked upon them, and odd pieces of wool, silk, &c., can be used with advantage. A paper-rack would make a most useful present. The cost of them being very low — from i\d. to a IJ., we believe is the price, or, maybe less — an extravagant outlay is not necessary, and when done they look worth as many shillings as pence paid for them in the first instance. We have seen pretty little card baskets or cotton ditto made in the same style, and any particulars as to where to buy them, &c., we will be happy to give. Mats are sold as low as \d. each, and the wall pockets 2j^. There are also trimmings for brackets in vandyke patterns equally THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. cheap. It reminds us greatly of the perforated card of our youth, on which we worked texts for book-markers, only this has a border, and is altogether according to the artistic style in vogue at the present day. Book-marlcers of the old fashioned kind are seldom used now, but one way to use up Christmas cards or scraps is to cut them neatly round and gum them on to dark satin. A pretty design of poppies and other field flowers on black satin ribbon with gold fringe would be most effective, the black showing beautifully through the cut out card. MUSIC CASES. Music cases are always useful, and may be made in several different ways, as shown in the illustrations. Perhaps the mpst convenient shape is that represented in Fig. i, and this takes pre- cedence of the others because the music need not be rolled up, a proceeding to which many people have a great objection. At the same time, it is rather a troublesome shape to make, and not very Fig. I. easy to describe clearly on paper. Three rather firm pieces of card are required. Two pieces must be cut alike, about an inch longer and about an inch wider than a piece of ordinary sheet music folded across its width. The lower corners are rounded slightly. The third piece of card must measure about an inch and a half in width, and the same in length as the other pieces. Cut out three pieces of satin to correspond in shape with the cards, but about an inch larger all round. In the centre of one piece of satin a little embroidery should be introduced. A fashionable way of ornamenting such little fanciful articles just now is to trace a very much enlarged copy of the signature of the owner on the satin, and then to follow its outlines with coloured silk, or with gold thread. Cover each of the larger pieces of card with a thin piece of wadding cut exactly the size of the cardboard. Do not turn it over the edge, as it will make it too bulky, but secure it in place Avith a few touches of gum or paste; the slightest thing of this kind will prevent it from slipping. A little sachet powder may be dusted into the wadding, if perfume is thought to be an improvement. Cover all three pieces of card with the satin very smoothly, and sew them together at the straight sides of the larger pieces. For the handle, stitch a neat little band of satin over a piece of webbing about an inch and a half wide, fasten each end of it to the narrow piece of card, and hide the join with a few ornamental stitches. The fastening consists of two ends of wide elastic with a ring at the end like the band which fastens up an umbrella. The two buttons are placed to correspond on the other side of the case at the rounded sides, which are left open. Here again a few ornamental stitches must be worked to hide imperfections. The case must be lined throughout with a thin silk or sateen. Of course, silk is to be preferred. A piece of narrow black elastic must be sewn inside in the middle from edge to edge, as in a blotting book, and the music is slipped under the elastic in precisely the same way as the blotting paper. A fancy cord or gimp must be sewn all round the edges outside where the seams are made by joining the divisions of the case. If it is thought that this sized case will not hold a sufficient quantity of music, the narrow piece of card must be cut wider. Figs. 2 and 3 show simple rings that are very useful for holding music, but are not so convenient as the one pictured in Fig. i. For Fig. 2, cut a piece of stout card, measuring ten inches in length, and three and a half inches in width. Join ' the two ends into a circle, allowing them to overlap about half an inch, and sewing them firmly together so that an enlarged table napkin rmg is formed. Take a piece of plush (blue or crimson would be pretty), measur- ing abouL eleven inches by five and a half in width. Join it down the sides so that it will exactly fit over the card. Embroider the word " Music" in fancy stitches on the plush, then slip the plush cover over the card and cover the cardboard circle neatly and tightly with it. Line the ring with a little piece of satin to match m colour, and sew a fancy cord round the edges where the lining and the outside cover meet. Fig. 3 is similar to Fig. 2 but has the advantage of being expansive. A piece of very wide elastic is required, measuring six inches in length. Cut a piece of plush double the length of the elastic and a trifle wider to allow of a turning of about half an inch at the top and bottom. Take a piece of ribbon about half an inch narrower than the plush, turn in the edges of the plush and stitch the edges of the ribbon and plush together, leaving the ends free. Run the elastic into the band of plush between it and the ribbon ; sew the two ends of elastic together, thus making a circle of it, and finally join the plush and satm very neatly. The result should be a circular band of elastic covered very fully with ample pleats of plush. Of course, when the elastic gets stretched with use, the fulness in the plush lends itself also to the expanding of the elastic. It will remind many people of the velvet bracelets that were fashionable some years ago. Fig. 4 Fig. 4. represents a simple oblong of brocaded silk rather wider than the length of a sheet of music, and it should measure about double the width of a piece of music or a song, and three inches over. Line the silk with a piece of thin sarcenet and bind the edges all round with narrow soft ribbon, to correspond in colour. Turn up the extra three inches at one end to make a small shallow pocket ; sew it neatly down the sides and add two strings of ribbon to the other end. The music is slipped into the little shallow pocket, and the whole thing rolls up and is tied round with the ribbon. Plush or kid would also look well for this case, but brocade is mentioned as being the material most used for such little trifles. FAN PENWIPER. Cut two pieces of cardboard as much as possible the shape of a wide open fan, measuring about three inches deep, also cut three pieces of cloth the same size and shape. Four pieces of cloth may be used if the material is thin. Take two pieces of satin of any colour, the same shape, but rather larger all round than the card- board, and embroider lines to simulate ribs, and a sort of fan-like ornament on the satin (painting may be used instead of embroidery if more convenient). Cover the two cards neatly with the satin and line them with silk of the same colour. Pink out the edges of the cloth very neatly all round, then lay the pieces of cloth between the 79 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. two cards, and fasten them all together at the point by sewing on two small buttons, one on one side of the penwiper and the other on the reverse side, exactly opposite to it. Small pearl buttons are the best for this, as the needle can be put through and through both at once. Add a loop or two of cord to the point and two ends of cord finished by a tassel, or by two tiny silk pompons. These penwipers can be converted into needlebooks by substituting flannel leaves for the cloth ones ; and by using four pieces of card instead of two, a pincushion may be combined with the needle-book. Two pieces of card are each covered with satin, and sewn together round the edges, thus m?.ki.ig a flat pincushion for each side of the fan. FISH PINCUSHION. This little novelty requires a very small amount of material for its manufacture, but at the same time it can only be carried out successfully by someone who can wield a paint-brush sufficiently well to paint in the scales and head of the fish. This cannot well be done with the needle. Cut out two pieces of card in the shape of the body of the fish, minus tail and fins. Cover each with silvery blueish-grey satin. It will be necessary in covering the cards to notch the satin here and there on the wrong side to make it set nicely over the curves of the pattern. The scales of the fish must next be painted on the satin, also the face and mouth of the creature, but not the eyes, these must be put in afterwards. V/hen both cards are covered, and the painting is quite dry, they must be sewn together all round the edges. The fins and tail are composed of pins, arranged in the manner shown in the woodcut. The eyes of the fish are formed by a glass-headed pin carefully put into its proper place with the point in between the two cards. A variety of this kind of pincushion may be made by placing a layer of wadding on one piece of card before covering it with satin, so as to give the fish a plump look. Lustra paints are well adapted for using to paint the scales, and are all the more effective if a few strokes of black or neutral tint be introduced to give a little shading. BEAD WORK. Beads are still as fashionable as ever for trimming both outdoor and evening costumes. Now many ladies complain of the trouble of tracing out the pattern, especially if the work is done on net. An easy and effective way to embroider on net is to buy Madras muslin, which is only 6id. per yard in all colours and black, and outline the arabesques and floral designs with beads, a few loops forming a tassel depending from the heart of each flower, or, if not required so heavy, a chenille or silk-bead pendant. Pale blue or pink outlined with moonlight or crystal beads would be exceedingly pretty, and yellow outlined with brown beads, made up with brown satin with bunches of poppies, would make a charming and uncommon ball dress for a dark girl, or if satin should be too expensive, brown net ballet style would be pretty. Buraceo lace cloth can be worked in the same effective manner, but it is dearer. This or the Madras has the advant- age over plain net or lace so beaded by being a firmer foundation to work upon. Our design represents a plastron in appliqued velvet on satin, the veins of the leaves being of beads, the pattern out- lined with cord. Any colours, according to the taste of the wearer, could be used in reproducing the plastron. We have explained the manner of working previously, but for the benefit of those readers who may have missed it, will recapitulate. The velvet, satin, or cashmere which is to form the pattern is placed over the foundation, tacking firmly all round. The pattern is then transferred on to the velvet, or whatever material is used, and cord is sewn firmly round the outline of the pattern, but it is as well to go over it with silk before putting on the cord. The design is then carefully cut out close to the cord, taking care not to injure the foundation. The work is quickly done, and is handsome in appearance. Cardinal satin outlined with black and cardinal cord, bound with jet beads, and appliqued on black satin would form a charming front for a black velveteen dress. Part of the pattern could be also introduced on the corner of the drapery. JUBILEE DESIGN. The year 1887 will of course be marked by its being the 50th year of our Queen's reign, and the Jubilee will be celebrated in many ways. The celebration of this event will make its mark even in such small matters as the ornamentation oi articles defantasie of various kinds. This year the majority of the designs brought forward will have reference to this milestone in the history of our nation, and much of our fancy work will be embroidered with re- presentations of our national emblems. The design given in this number of the FANCY Work-Basket will lend itself to reproduc- tion in various sizes on innumerable small or large articles. A brief description of the stitches with which it may be worked may not come amiss to some of our readers. The figure of Britannia in the centre should be delicately worked in outline stitch in the finest of silk, black if the background is a light one, coloured silk if the background is dark. The edge of the circle may either be worked in thick button-hole stitch, or a gold cord may be laid round it. The Union Jacks are worked in crewel stitch and dark blue silk, intersected by stripes of white and red. The flag-staff is of gold thread with an acorn at the top, the cup of which is worked in brown silk, the fruit itself being golden-green silk. The conven- tional rose, shamrock and thistle are worked as far as possible in their natural colours, and the letters and figures in gold coloured silk with very small stitches. The V. R. being larger may well be worked with gold thread. A regal crown may be used instead of these two letters if preferred. One may be copied from the design on a florin if no other model of a crown is at hand. This design is suitable for embroidering on work-bags, handkerchief or scent sachets, pincushions, in fact on anything that is usually ornamented with needlework. If the article on which it is used is intended to hang up, the loop must be made of narrow red, white, and blue rib- bon plaited into one flat band, the ends of which are finished with a natty little bow of each of the three ribbons. TRACING WHEEL FOR FANCY WORK. This wheel is suitable for Tracing every description of Fancy Work, i8 stamps, post free Mrs. Leach, 8, Johnson'^ Court, Fleet Street, London. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. WORK CASE. This useful little article is made of brown holland, boUnd with narrow blue ribbon. A case of this kind would be much appre- ciated by intending travellers, and, indeed, by many gentlemen, as well as ladies. The woodcut should assist a worker muclj in ex- plaining the arrange- ment of the pockets, which is not very easy to describe on paper. A piece of holland for the back of the case is required, measuring 28 inches in length and 8 inches in width. Four inches of this are rounded to form a flap, and the piece of holland is then bound all round with the ribbon. Four inches at the end oppo- site to the flap are turned up and sewn down the sides to form a pocket. On the front of this pocket is at- tached a smaller poc- ket, useful for holding buttons, and measuring 4 inches one way and 3 inches the other. This is bound also all round before being attached to the larger pocket. A rounded flap, measuring 3 inches in its widest part (the centre), must be cut out in the holland, bound with ribbon, and sewn in its position just above the pocket where it will con\enientIy fold over it. A loop must be worked in the centre of the flap to correspond with a button placed in the centre of the small pocket. Four smaller pieces of holland are now cut out, measuring 4 inches in length and 3 inches wide. These pockets are bound all round, then sewn into place down the side of the case, as shown in the sketch. A box-pleat is made in each at the bottom, so that these pockets measure only 2 inches at the lower part. The sides are sewn nearly straight up the holland, thus making the top of each little pocket loose and full, the bottom being confined in the box-pleat. If preferred, an elastic may be run into a hem at the top of the pocket to draw it up to the required 2 inches. For the centre of the case, between the 2 side rows of pockets, a long narrow piece of holland is required, measuring 12 inches in length and 3 inches in width. This is tacked in position on the case, and then stitched to the holland on each side, and 2 rows of stitching made an inch apart down the centre of it. Thus 3 long and narrow tunnels (as it were) are made, of course open at both ends. Needlefuls of black and white cotton and threads of sewing silk of black and various colours are run into these places. In the flap must be fastened about 2 half-circles of flannel, pinked or embroidered at the edges to hold needles. A loop must be worked in the centre of the edge of this flap to fasten over a button placed in a convenient place on the case. It will be easy to see where to put this button when the case is folded up. Should a more ornamental house- wife be required, the holland case must not be bound, but when all the pockets have been made and sewn into their places a piece of satin, plush or any convenient material may be cut the exact size and shape of the largest piece of holland. This is laid against the back of the case, tacked into place, and then the whole thing is nicely bound with ribbon. Any embroidery may be added, according to taste, and, if wished very elaborate, the words "buttons," "tape," "hooks and eyes," &c., may be worked on the pockets. The name of the owner would also form an appropriate ornamentation. The case when folded up should measure about 8 inches by 4. ROSETTE WORK. A summer quilt made of the work we are about to describe would be not only pretty but durable, and very pleasant and agree- able to make. There is an infinite variety of materials and colours • to choose from that would be appropriate for it, but the prettiest of all combinations for the purpose is Turkey twill and ordinary white twilled calico, as like the red as possible in texture and quality. Of course much must depend upon the taste of the worker, which, again, will most likely be guided by the general colouring of the room in which the coverlet is to be used. A great variety of pretty tints and shades of colour is to be found m sateen, but, alas ! the lovely hues are often far from being durable, and what can look more deplorable than faded sateen, to say nothing of the disappoint- ment of the industrious maker of the quilt or chairback? We will, therefore, consider that Turkey twill and white twilled calico are the two materials to be used. Some cardboard will also be required, a reel of very strong white cotton, and a reel of equally stout red, besides some finer cotton with which to sew the rosettes together. Cut two circles of cardboard, the larger one measuring 4i inches across, and the smaller one 2 inches across. Taking the larger circle as a pattern, cut a number of circles of twill of both colours exactly the same size, turn over the edge of the circle for about 4 inch all round on the wrong side of the twill (it is a great advantage to have both sides of the material alike, if possible), take a needle threaded with the stout thread, and gather up the circle round the edge, or just a thread or two below it. With a little prac- tice, the edge of the calico can be turned over at the same time that it is being gathered, but just at first it is better to do the two operaUons separately. In gathering it, care must be taken to form very large stitches on the right side and smaller ones on the wrong, thus : . The first few stitches of the gathering may be drawn up closely, the last few must be left slack. Now take the small circle of cardboard, slip it into the half-finished rosette, and draw the gathers up closely. Hold the thread firmly so that it does not slip, and with the thumb and finger press the edges of the rosette so as to mark where the edge of the card comes. This is done to act as a guide to the size of the rosette. Then, when the mark has creased the twill distinctly enough, slacken the draw-thread, take out the cardboard and draw the thread up again to the size it was when the cardboard was inside, using the creases made in the edge as a guide. Be sure to finish off the gathering neatly and firmly, so that it neither slips nor looks untidy. All the rosettes are made in exactly the same way. In sewing them together, lay the holes that form the centre of the rosettes exactly over each other, and sew the edge of the two circles very neatly together with small stitches for a distance of about J inch. The spaces between the rosettes will look rather vacant if they are left entirely open, so it is better to fill them up with a small wheel, such as is used in various kinds of lace, &c. In arranging the colours, the red and the white rosettes may either be sewn together in stripes or in alternate circles of red and white, placing the red rosettes in the 2nd row exactly under the white ones in the ist row. For chairbacks few colours or materials look better than old gold and seal-brown silk mixed. In any case the edges may be finished off" with tassels of the same colour fastened at intervals all round. The only difficulty in this work is in making the rosettes regular in form and all of the same size, but after a little practice this difficulty will soon be overcome. A good size for an antim.xassar should have 12 rosettes in length and 7 in width. O: course the size of the rosettes may be varied according to fa: cy ; they look well either larger or smaller, according to the miss: n they are destined to fulfil. 81 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 1 UNION JACK PINCUSHION. A Union Jack pin- cushion is a pretty trifle for bazaars, and being new, would be certain to hit ' the public taste. It is made thus: — Cut 2 pieces of cardboard the same size, and measuring 4 inches by 3, or less if preferred. Cover one side of these cards smoothly with rich dark blue silk. Take some white ribbon of the width usually sold at a penny a yard. Stretch it across and across the cards, and, as each strip of white ribbon is placed in position on the card, stretch down the middle of it a strip of very narrow scarlet ribbon ; that which costs about a penny for 3 yards will do for the purpose. We believe it is known as " China ribbon." Fasten off the ends of the ribbons firmly on the wrong side of the cards, and finally sew them together all round the edges. Penwipers may be made in a sirnilar manner. For these, one piece of card only will be required, but the wrong side of it must be lined with a piece of blue silk. About 4 pieces of black cloth just a trifle smaller than the card must be pinked out at the edges and sewn down one side of the card, somewhat like the pages of a book. A fine bone knitting needle, with a knob at one end, will serve as the staff" of the flag. Sew it to the card and cloth, as shown in the woodcut, passing a few threads of strong blue sewing silk round it to keep it in place. The point of the knitting needle should be ground off blunt, as being then less likely to injure anybody who happens to be h.indling the pen- wiper. The knob may be gilded, if preferred, with a few touches of gold paint. A needlebook may be made instead of a penwiper in almost the same way, but for this 2 pieces of card are required, which serve exactly the same purpose as the covers of a book, the pages being represented by leaves of flannel. The knitting-needle flag-staff should in this case be inserted down the sides of the book, where it opens, and loops of ribbon must be sewn to the covers to receive it, thus: — i loop in the middle of the edge of one side, and 2 loops to the edge of the other side, nearer the top and bottom edges of the cover. This is very difficult to describe clearly on paper, but anybody will understand what we mean by looking at any pocket-book, the pencil of which is slipped into 3 loops at the side. Of course the pencil or knitting-needle serves to close the book and keep it neat. The leaves of flannel must either be pinked or overcast with silk at the edges, the latter is the tidiest and prettiest way of managing them. BOOK COVERS. These covers are very useful for hiding the faults and failings of books that have been borrowed from public and circulating libraries. The most simple way of making such a case is to cut a piece of velvet or any other material that is to be used, just the size that the book is when it is laid open on the table, and three inches over at each end. The piece of velvet must be bound all round very neatly, and the extra three inches turned up at one end so as to make a short shallow pocket. At the other end, the three inches must be turned up but not sewn. This end must have 2 loops of elastic and 2 small flat buttons at the sides to fasten it, as, if both ends were to be sewn up, the covers of the" book would not slip in and out without risk of spoiling and strain- ing them. The buttons should be placed just outside the cover, so that when the book is shut up, they will not leave a mark upon it. If a very shallow pocket be made at each end of the book cover, the boards of the book may be slipped in and out without the trouble of buttoning and unbuttoning the elastic loops, but for the same reason that the covers slip in easily, they also slip out too easily, and that is troublesome when the book is in constant use. Another way of making a book cover is very satisfactory, provided that the book is only slipped into it to preserve it from scratches or dust, and is not intended to be used while in its case. This, like 1 82 the former one, is cut the exact size of the book as it lies open on a table, and we will suppose soft cashmere to be the material chosen. It is folded in half round the book, and on each side from edge to edge are sewn 2 straps of the cashmere about an inch or 2 inches wide (according to the size of the book), and the length of the thickness of the book. The 4th edge of the book cover is managed in exactly the same way except that the straps instead of being sewn at both ends are sewn only at one, the other ends having a button-hole worked in them, to button over to a corre- sponding button on the main body of the cover. Any ribbon may be used to bind the edges, and any embroidery worked on the sides that will best suit the taste of the worker, while, if preferred, long narrow pieces of cashmere may take the place of the straps, so as to make a sort of soft cashmere box into which the book can be slipped and securely buttoned in. KNITTING NEEDLE CASE. This case is intended to hold knitting needles when they areout of use, and to prevent them from becoming rusty. Modifications of it can be made to suit other purposes, as will be shown hereafter. The outside may be made of satin, plush, velvet, brocaded satin, cretonne, or, indeed, of almost any convenient material. It must be THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. cut rather wider than the longest knitting-needle that it is to con- tain, and about 3 times as long as it is wide. The one end must be rounded in flap-form, and 2 long and narrow flaps cut to fold over the knitting needles at the sides, and prevent them from falling out These flaps must he of the same length as the case is without the rounded flap, and about a third the width of the case. A set of 3 pieces of chamois leather must next be cut to line the case with, but before tacking them into the outside cover, cut a long narrow piece of the wash-leather, and lay it down the centre of the largest piece, making a few runnings or stitchings across its width, into which the knitting-needles are to be slipped. Then lay the wash-leather linings in place against the outside cover, and tack them well all round to keep them in their places. Bind each piece neatly ail round with ribbon, sew the side flaps to the centre part, and add strings of ribbon to tie round the case when it is rolled up. The side flaps may be cut all in the same piece with the centre part if preferred, but then more difficulty will be experienced in folding them straightly over the contents, when the case is to be rolled up. By making the centre strip nearly as wide as the case itself, and by putting the rows of stitching rather further apart, a useful case for crewel silks or wool can be made. Of course it need not be lined with wash-leather. Made of baize, these cases are'useful in a house for stowing away fish or dessert knives and forks, while made of some more dainty material they are acceptable to young art students for containing their pencils. Knitting. TOILET SET. This pretty and novel toilet set consists of 2 mats, 2 tidies for hairpins, &c., and a star for looping looking-glass drapery. Materials: — i oz. of scarlet shaded wool, 4 skeins brown and gold Japanese crewel, some very thin cardboard, i of a yard of pale blue sateen, and a little dark material to cover the under surface of the mats, a few threads of pale blue wool, 4 steel knitting needles. No. II, and 2 bone crochet hooks, No. 9 and No. 11, Chambers' Bell gauge. The toilet tidies being of different design will be dis- tinguished as the Basket tidy and the Cornucopia. For the Cornucopia, with the shaded wool cast on 5 stitches, knit I row plain. 2nd row — knit 2, * knit i, purl I, repeat from * 3 times, knit i, all ^^i^ into the 3rd stitch, 7 fj^'^-,in all, turn the work, !^^'/^ leaving 2 stitches on '^■■it? the left-hand needle, knit the 7 stitches just made, turn and knit them again, turn, knit 4 of the 7, draw the 1st 3 singly over the 4th, knit the remaining 3 of the 7, turn, knit the 4, draw the 3 over the 4th, knit the I stitch remain- ing of the 7 and the 2 on the left-hand needle. There are now 5 on the needle, knit. 3rd row — plain; join on the Japanese crewel, knit 2 plain rows, leaving the scarlet wool hanging. 6th row — knit I, * thread forward, knit i, repeat from * 4 times; 9 stitches on needle. 7th, Sth and 9th rows — plain; leave the crewel, and with the scarlet wool knit lothand nth rows plain. 1 2th row — knit 2, proceed with the 3rd stitch as you did with 3rd stitch of 2nd row. When the tuft is completed, knit i stitch from left-hand needle, another tuft, another stitch plain, a third tuft, and knit the 2 stitches remaining on the needle; 9 stitches on needle. 13th row — plain ; leave the wool, and with the crewel knit 4 plain rows. 18th row — knit 2, * thread forward, knit I, repeat from * 5 times, thread forward, knit 2; 15 stitches on needle. 19th, 20th and 2lst rows— plain ; leave the crewel, and with the wool knit 2 rows plain. 24th row — knit 2, make 6 tufts with i plain stitch between each, knit 2. These tufts and all the rest that follow are to be made of 5 stitches instead of 7, 2 being drawn over the middle one instead of 3. 25th row — plain; leave the scailet, with the crewel knit 4 plain rows. 30lh row — knit 2, * thread forward, knit i, repeat from * 1 1 times, thread forward, knit 2; 27 stitches on needle, knit 3 rows plain with the crewel, and 2 with the scarlet 36th row — knit 2, make 12 tufts with i plain between each, knit the last 2; 27 stitches on needle. 37th row — plain; leave the scarlet, and with the crewel knit 4 plain rows. 42nd row — knit 2, * thread forward, knit I, repeat from * 23 times, thread forward, knit 2; 51 stitches on needle ; knit 3 rows plain with the crewel, and 2 with the scarlet. 48th row— knit 2, make 24 tufts with i plain stitch between each, knit the last 2 ; 5 1 stitches on needle. 49th row — plain. 50th row — plain; with the crewel slip the 51 stitches on to the crochet hook. No. 9, and work back as in tricot, slip the stitches on to hook No. II, and work back. Now cut apiece of cardboard the shape of the work, but somewhat smaller, cover it on both sides with the sateen, sew it by slipstitches into the work, then join the 2 edges, make a chain with the blue wool 1 1 inches in length, work upon this chain a row of double crochet with the wool, then with the crewel work i double crochet, 3 chain, miss i all along the 2 edges and ends of this blue strip ; you have now a braid J of an inch in width. Fasten one end of it inside the tidy over the join, and carry itin two easy loops along the back upper edge of the mouth of the tidy; make a cord of the scarlet shaded wool 9 inches in length, and attach it to the back of the tidy to hang it by. B.\sketTidv. — \V i t h the shaded wool caston 5 stitches, knit I row plain. 2nd row — knit I, * slip I, knit I, repeat from * twice. 3rd row — knit 2 into the 1st stitch, knit 3, knit 2 into the last ; 7 stitches. 4th row — like 2nd, except that ^ you repeat from * thrice. 5th row — like 3rd, except that there will be 55 knit instead of 3 between the ist and last stitches. 6th row — knit i, * slip i, knit i, repeat from * 4 times ; 9 stitches. 7th ro\v — plain ; join on the crewel, leaving the wool hanging, knit 4 rows plain. 12th row — knit 2, * thread forward, knit i, repeat from * 5 times, thread forward, knit 2 ; 15 stitches. 3 rows plain; leave the crewel, and with the wool knit i row plain. 17th row — knit I, * slip I, knit i, repeat from * to end of row. iSth row — ■ plain, increasing in 1st and last stitch. 19th row — like 17th. 20th row — like iSth. 21st row — like 17th. 22nd row — plain, without increase, leave the wool ; with the crewel knit 4 rows plain. 27th row — knit 2, * thread forward, knit i, repeat from ^iG times, thread forward, knit 2; 36 stitches. 3 more rows plain with the crewel, and 2 with the wool. 33rd row — knit 2, make 16 tufts of 5 stitches each with a plain stitch between each. 34th row — plain; fasten off the scarlet wool, and with crewel knit i row plain, slip the stitches (36) on to No. 9 crochet hook, and work back as in tricot. Fasten off". This makes one side of the basket. Knit another piece in the same way, cut two pieces of cardboard the shape of these, but some- what smaller, cover them with sateen, sew the covers on neatly with slipstitches, join back and front by sewing them together at the sides. With the shaded wool make a chain of 18 inches with No. 9 hook, work on it one row in treble stitch. Fasten off, and with the crewel work an edge round this braid as with the blue braid in the other tidy. Sew it along the inner edges of the mouths of the basket, bringing the upper edge even with that of the basket on the front piece, but bringing it to a point an inch and a half above the edge at the middle of the back piece, only meeting the front at the corners at the point of juncture on one side ; with crew-el work 3 loops into I stitch, l of 3 chain, 3 of 5, and another of 3, then work in double crochet over the join till you reach the lowest point of the tidy, work into it 3 loops, i of 3, l of 5 and i of 3 chain, proceed up the other side, and work 3 loops as at the other side. Work a cord and attach to the back as with the other tidy. For the Mats, cast on with the shaded wool ^ stitches on to each of 3 needles, knit i round plain. 2nd round — knit 2, thread forward, knit i, thread forward, knit 2, repeat twice more. 3rd round — purl. 4th round — knit 2, * thread forward, knit I, repeat from * twice, thread forward, knit 3, repeat from beginning of round twice. 5th round — purl. Join on the crewel, and knit a round, S3 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. ■bringing thread forward between every 3 stitches, then purl a round ; repeat these 2 last rounds till you have 69 stitches altogether, knit I round plain with the shaded wool, cast off all but one, but do not fasten off. With the No. 9 hook, make a chain of 10 stitches, begin- ning with the I stitch, work i double crochet into each of the next 4 stitches in the round just cast off, repeat 10 chain, 4 double crochet all round. You will have 17 loops of 10 chain with 4 double between each loop. Fasten off the wool, and take up the crewel, ** work a double crochet into the 2nd chain of the ist loop, 3 chain, miss I, I double into the next, * 3 chain, i double into next chain, repeat from * 5 times, 3 chain, put the hook through the top loops of the 2 middle stitches of the 4 double in the round below, work i double into the 2 loops as i, repeat from ** 16 times more. Fasten off, drawing the crewel through the loop you began with at the beginning of the round; cut a round of cardboard si inches in diameter, cover it with the sateen on the upper and the dark material on the under surface, sew the mat upon it, bringing the cast off round to within J an inch of the edge of the foundation all round; the loop border will extend about an inch beyond the cardboard. Fill up the hole in the centre with a cross of the crewel. Work another mat in the same way. For the Ornament for the Mirror Drapery, with the shaded wool make a chain of 4 stitches, unite into a round, work into it 12 treble stitches, work as in the mat 6 loops with 4 double crochet between them, only let the loops consist of 7 instead of 10 chain stitches. Fasten off the shaded, and with the crewel fasten into the 2nd chain of the ist 7, t * 3 chain, i double into next row, repeat from * 3 times more, 3 chain, I double into the 2 middle loops of the 4 double below ; repeat from f 5 times more. Fasten off; with the crewel make a chain of 4, unite, work into it 6 treble, unite, 3 chain, i double into each stitch ; form this into a cup, pinch the lower end, wind round some threads of crewel, draw through the centre hole, and fasten to the under side ; wind the crewel 6 times round 2 fingers, sew one end of this loop into the bottom of the cup, and cut the other ends. TO CAST OFF STITCHES. The following is a simple and neat way to cast off the stitches in knitting, whether they are required to be done loosely or otherwise :— Knit 2 stitches together, * put the stitch just knitted, and now on the right-hand needle, back on to the left-hand needle, knit this stitch and the one next to it together ; repeat from * till all are cast off. A trial will show that this plan makes a neater edge than the ordinary method, and is quite as elastic. A Beautiful & Useful Gift Book; Now ready, price 3b., Vol. I., handsomely bound In cloth gUt, jj^g LEACH'S FANCY W^RK-BASKET. Containing 250 Pages, with over COO Receipts, fully Illustrated, for making lovely things in Knitting, Crochet, Art Needlework, Embroidery, Macrame Work, Home Decoration, Bead Work, Photograph Painting, Orystoleum Fainting, Mirror Painting, Terra Cotta Painting, Smocking, Kells Embroidery, Presents for Gentlemen, &c. A Lady writes: — "This practical book should be in every honsehold." May be had of all Bcokselleis, or post free, 3s. Od. R. Cabtwkight, 8, Johnson's Ct., Fleet St., London. VEST FOR INFANT IN FINE WOOL. This pretty little vest is knitted in white Shetland wool, and with bone pins. No. 12. It takes about i oz. of wool, and is made high in the neck, and with long sleeves. Cast on 48 stitches, ist row — plain. 2nd row — purl. The whole work is done in this way, alternate rows of plain and purl. Work 60 rows, then increase 1 stitch at the beginning of every row till you have increased to 56 stitches. Work 10 rows without increasing. Next row, knit 15 stitches, cast off the next 26 stitches for the neck^ knit the last 15. Slip the first 1 5 stitches on to a piece of wool, and continue work- ing the last 15 for the shoulder strap. Decrease i stitch every other row at the neck end till you have only 10 stitches. Work 6 rows without decreasing. Increase every other row at the neck till you have 15 stitches again. Slip these 15 on to a piece of wool. Take up the first 1 5 stitches, and work them the same as the other strap. When this is done, and having your wool at the neck end, cast on 26 stitches on the same needle, to correspond to the 26 previously cast off ; take up the 1 5 stitches slipped on to the wool, when you should have again 56 stitches in all. This plan prevents any join- ing on the shoulders. Work 10 rows, then decrease i every other row till you have 4a stitches, and work 60 rows without decreasing; Join the sides of the vest, leaving armholes. Sleeves — For the sleeve cast on 40 stitches. Work 20 rows alternate plain and purl. 21st row — decrease i at each end of the row. Work 9 rows without decreasing. 31st row — decrease i at each end of the row. Work 9 rows without decreasing. 41st row — decrease I at each end of the row. Work 9 rows without decreasing. 5 ist row — decrease i at each end of the row, and end with 9 rows without decreasing. The border round neck, sleeves and bottom of the vest is worked in crazy stitch. For the cuffs, i single crochet into the last row of knitting, 3 chain, 2 treble into the same hole as the single crochet stitch, miss 3 stitches of the knitting, and repeat all round. Join at the end, turn, make 3 chain, and work 2 more rows the same. Work 2 rows in the same way round the bottom of the vest. Work 1 row in the same way round the neck. 2nd row — decrease 4 times at the beginning and end of the front, and at the beginning and end of the back. The decreasing is done thus: Put the hook into one crazy stitch, and then into the next, then pull the wool through both, and proceed as usual. 3rd row — the same as the 2nd. Run narrow white sarcenet ribbon through the border at the neck and sleeves. SERVIETTE RING IN KNITTING AND CROCHET. Materials : — J oz. single white Berlin wool, j oz. of scarlet, small bone crochet hook, I pair No. 14 knitting pins (steel). Cast on in white wool 16 stitches, work back- wards and forwards 36 rows in plain knitting, 72 rows altogether, cast off, and sew together round in ring. Then with bone crochet hook work 4 chain, I treble in ist knitted stitch, * I chain, i treble into next ; repeat from * in every stitch, working same backwards and forwards, always missing I row of plain knitting between.- 2nd row — with scarlet wool work 3 chain, i double in every hole of preceding row. Fasten off. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. LADIES' AND GENTLEMEN'S MITTENS. Two skeins of Beehive fingering wool and 4 steel needles, No. 14, will be required. Cast on 52 stitches on 3 of your needles, and knit round and round like a stock- ing,makingaribbingbyknitting2 and purling 2 alternately. When you have ribbed 36 rounds, knit 1 5 rounds plain. For thumb: ist round — knit 2, make i stitch by knitting the back half of the stitch just knitted, knit 2, make i stitch, knit to end of round. It is advisable to mark the beginning of the round with a thread. 2nd and 3rd rounds — knit plain. 4th round — knit 2, make I stitch, knit 4, make a stitch, knit plain to end of round. 5th and 6th rounds — knit plain. 7th round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 6, make a stitch, knit to end of round. 8th and 9th rounds — knit plain. loth round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 8, make a stitch, knit to end of round, i ith and 12th rounds — knit plain. 13th round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 10, make a stitch, knit to end of round. 1 4th and 1 5th rounds — knit plain. l6th round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 12, make a stitch, knit to end of round. 17th and i8th rounds — knit plain. 19th round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 14, make a stitch, knit to end of round. 20th and 2ist rounds — knit plain. 22nd round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 16, make a stitch, knit to end of round. 23rd and 24th rounds — knit plain. 25th round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 18, make a stitch, knit to end of round. 26th and 27th rounds — knit plain. 28th round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 20, make a stitch, knit to end of round. 29th and 30th rounds — knit plain. 3tst round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 22, make a stitch, knit to end of round. 32nd round — knit 3, slip the next 22 stitches for the thumb on a piece of wool, knit the remainder of the round plain. Knit g more plain rounds. You should have 52 stitches on your needles. Knit 2 and purl 2 alternately for 10 rounds. Cast off loosely. For the thumb: put the 22 stitches that were left on a piece of wool on the needles, lifting 6 additional stitches where the opening is to form a gusset. You should now have 28 stitches on your needles. Knit round and round, taking 2 together at the beginning and end of the gusset in every alternate round till you have only 24 stitches on your needles. Knit 3 more rounds quite plain ; knit 2 and purl 2 alternately for 6 rounds. Cast off loosely. These mittens can be made much more dainty and becoming by working 3 rows of coarse chain stitch up the backs with coarse coloured silk. The spacing and length of the stitching can be copied from any kid glove. Well shaped gentlemen's mittens can be madefrom this pattern byusing Berlin fingering or Reliance wool, and No. 13 needles. After the 36 rows of ribbing, the following pattern maybe substituted instead of plain knitting: * 2 rows of plain knit- ting. 3rd row — -knit i and purl I alternately. Repeat from *, taking care to keep the stitches that are knitted and purled in perpendi- cular rows. When you slip the 22 stitches on to apiece of wool for the thumb, cast on 6 stitches for a gusset. Take 2 together at each end of this gusset in every alternate round till you have only 52 stitches on your needles. Finish the hand as in the lady's mitten. When taking up the stitches to continue the thumb, pick up 6 stitches on those already cast on for the gusset, instead of casting on 6 ; you will have 28 stitches on your needles. Finish the thumb as in the lady's mitten. CLOUD. A lovely cloud is made in grey double Berlin wool, and knitting silk to match; any other colour maybe chosen, bone needles I inch in circumference, i yard of satin ribbon. With the double Berlin wool cast on 52 stitches, knit 2 rows plain backwards and forwards ; now fasten on the silk but do not break off the wool, and knit 2 more plain rows ; repeat these 4 rows until you have 144 rows in all; cast off, gather up both ends, make a full tassel and sew on to I end, make a bow with the ribbon and sew on for the head part ; I ball of silk and 6 oz. ol wool will make one the size given. SQUARE PATTERN FOR A CHILD'S SOCK, Age 3 Years. Materials required : — i packet of Beehive wool, and finepins. Cast 20 stitcheson each pin, and do 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain for 8 rounds, and then where you did 2 plain, do 2 purl, and where you did 2 purl, do 2 plain for 8 rounds more ; repeat till you have done 13 of these squares, which will complete the leg. For the heel, divide your stitches, which will be 30 for the heel, and do 3 squares the same as in the leg, taken downtheheel: 1st row — knit 10 plain, take 2 together, and then purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, take 2 together, and knit 2 plain. 2nd row — slip i, take 2 together, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, take 2 together, and knit 2. 3rd row — slip I, take 2 to- gether, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, take 2 together, and knit 2. 4th row — slip I, take 2 together, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, take 2 to- gether, purl 2. 5th row — slip I, take 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, take 2 together, knit 2. 6th row — slip i, take 2 together, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, take 2 together, and purl 2. 7th row — slip i,take 2 together, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, take 2 together, and knit 2. 8th row — slip I, take 2 together, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, take 2 together, purl 2. 9th row — slip I, take 2 together, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, take 2 together. loth row — slip I, take 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, take 2 together, purl i. nth row — take 2 together, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, take 2 together. 12th row— take 2 together, purl i, plain 2, purl I, take 2 together. This will leave 6 stitches on the heel pin, then pick up about 14 each side of the heel, and take looff the front pin, so as to make 22 stitches on the 2 side pins and 20 on the front pin. Knit 2 rounds plain on the 2 side pins ; the front pin must be done 2 plain, 2 purl, in squares like the leg. Then narrow at the ends of the side needles nearest the instep till you have 20 stitches on a pin, and you have done 7 squares up the front with 8 rounds to each square, so as to correspond with the leg. If the child wears slippers it will show ; when you take the toe off do 2 plain rounds, and then narrow at the beginning and end of every pin, and repeat till you have about 6 stitches. Cast off. INFANT'S HOOD. Materials : 2 oz. of white single Berlin wool, I oz. of white Shetland wool, bone crochet hook. No. 10, 2 steel knitting needles. No. 15, baby's cap border, i J yards of white sarcenet ribbon i inch wide, a small piece of white wadding, i yard of sarcenet for lining. Make a chain of 37 stitches. 1st row — double crochet into the 2nd chain, then double crochet into every chain to the end of the row. 2nd row — make i chain, double crochet into every stitch, working into the back loop of the stitch, called Russian crochet. Continue every row like the 2nd until you have 13 ribs or 26 rows. Make a further chain of 25 stitches as a continuation of the last row, Russian crochet backwards and forwards until you have 5j ribs or 1 1 rows, the extra length forms the crown, then leave the extra 24 stitches and crochet the 13 ribs to match the other side. Fasten on with Shetland wool, 6 chain, i double into every stitch, repeat this in every alternate row on every rib till you have covered all one side. Now go on the other side of the work, the part near- est the face, and do 6 chain, i double 14 times on ist rib ; repeat on every rib to other end. For the curtain, make a chain of 13 and work 60 rows Russian crochet or 30 ribs. Cover one side with Shetland wool as before and make an edge across bottom as follows, 6 chain, i double about every J inch. 2nd row — 6 chain, i double into every loop of chain you turn with when covering the curtain. 3rd row — 6 chain, i double into every loop of 6 chain in ist row, taking in the 2nd row with it. For the feathers, cast on 17 stitches with 85 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. the Berlin wool, knit i plain row. 2nd row — loop knitting with a plain stitch between each. Repeat this 2 rows till you have 30 double rows. Make 3 of these feathers. Now lay a piece of wadding along front and roll back the inside piece that is covered with Shetland, catch it down here and there v/ith wool, sew the sides of crown to the centre fulling them a little at top. Sew the curtain to the crown, lay the 2 feathers on crown meeting each other lengthways, place the other from front to back between them. Run a ribbon between crown and curtain and tie in a bow at back. Sew on the strings and cap front. STOCKINGS FOR LADY (Small Size), Perfect Fitting. Materials required : 7 ozs. of best merino wool, 4 steel needles. No. 16, Walker's bell gauge. Cast on 112 stitches. Knit 3 plain and I purl for 162 rows; now do 17 intakes with 5 rows between each, this makes 34 altogether, 17 on each side, and reduces the stocking to 78 stitches. Knit 47 rows or 3 inches for the ankle. Now divide the stitches, placing 19 on each side of the seam, leaving 39 for front of foot ; now knit 35 rows plain and purl alternately, or 3I inches for the heel, slip the 5th stitch on the left side of the seam, knit the 6th and take the slipped stitch over ; turn back and purl the 5th and 6th together at the other side ; repeat until the heel is turned ; now pick up the stitches till there are 33 stitches on each side of the seam, 14 being for the gusset; the 2 back needles must now be knitted plain and the front ribbed. When the gusset is -done there ought to be 78 stitches on the needles. Knit 84 rows for the foot, or 6J inches, counting from the heel. Now leave off rib- bing, and knit plain all round for commencement of toe ; knit 4 stitches on front needle, slip the 5th and knit the 6th, take the slipped stitch over and knit till you come to the 6th stitch, which you must slip, knit the 5th, take the slipped stitch over, and knit 4. Right hand back needle— knit 4, slip the 5th, knit the 6th, take the slipped stitch over and knit plain to end of needle. Left hand back needle— knit plain to within the last 6 stitches, slip the 6th, knit the Sth, take the slipped stitch over and knit 4. Next row — plain knitting all round ; repeat these last 2 rows until there are 24 stitches on the needles ; knit back and front needles together and cast off. This toe is a great improvement on all others, being a special Scotch pattern. TWO EXCELLENT PATTERNS FOR POULTICE BANDAGES. In these days, when sick nursing and nurses are so much talked about, we feel sure the follow- ing patterns for poultice bands will be most acceptable. No. I is such a very simple pattern, that a child could knit it, if it only knows how to form a plain and a purl stitch in knitting. The bandages are useful when a poultice is required to be kept in its proper place without undue pressure on any part, and the fact of its being kept on without pins will recommend the bandages to most, particularly those in charge of children and restless invalids. Materials required : i oz. of white Angola, No. 12, 2 knitting needles No, 14, a piece of nice soft tape about 2 86 yards long and i inch wide, and 5 pieces of tape 6 inches long each piece, and i inch wide. Cast on 42 stitches, ist row — plain. 2nd row —purl. Repeat these 2 rows till 8 rows are knitted. 9th row — purl. loth row — plain. Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more — 16 rows in all from beginning. This completes i pattern. Knit 7 patterns more. 113th row — plain. 114th row — purl. 115th row — plain. 1 1 6th row — purl. 117th row — in this row the holes are made for the narrow tape to pass through; knit i plain,* 2 stitches toge- ther, make 2 stitches by putting the thread twice round the needle, 2 together, 5 plain, repeat from * 4 times more, but ending the row by knitting i plain instead of 5 plain stitches. iiSth row — purl, except where the thread was put twice round the needle in last row, and to make the 2 stitches there, knit i, purl i. 119th row — plain. 1 20th row — purl. Cast off. Sew the ; pieces of narrow tape on the end where the stitches were cast on for the bandage opposite to the holes made in the 117th row, put i tape through each hole, and then sew them neatly to one end of the wide piece of tape; hem the other end of the wide tape and the bandage is ready for use. The model is a small size, but by casting on more stitches and knitting the bandage longer, any size can be made for any part of the body. No. 2 — this ban- dage is intended to use at a join, either elbow or knee. The same materials will be required as for No. i. Cast on 42 stitches and knit as bandage No. I to end of 1st pattern. 17th row— plain. iSthrow — purl. 19th row — knit 14 plain, increase stitch by lifting the loop in the last row and knitting it as a stitch, increase i stitch in the same way in every row, minding to follow the pattern till there are 72 stitches on the needle, then knit 12 rows without increasing; now decrease i stitch in eveiy row by knitting thei4th andi sth stitches together till only 42 stitches remain ; then finish off to correspond with first 18 rows, but making holes in the same way as in 117th row of the 1st bandage pattern for the narrow tapes to pass through, which are sewn on as directed for that bandage. BEADED CUFFS. *ii«'r-..', ', Materials required: 3 steel needles No. 17, i ounce black Andalusian wool, 2 skeins of steel beads. Cast on 44 stitches, ist row — plain. 2nd row — knit 28 plain stitches, then knit a bead in every remaining stitch. 3rd row — make i stitch, then knit a stitch in the 1st stitch, but instead of letting the stitch off, pass the stitch on to the left hand needle and knit again, the rest of the row plain. 5th row — knit 27 plain, then a bead on the remaining stitches. 5th row — make i as before, the rest of the row plain. 6th row — 26 plain, then a bead in the re- maining stitches. 7th row — make I, the rest plain. Sth row — 25 plain, then a bead in the re- maining stitches. 9th row — decrease I by knitting the 2 ist stitches in the usual way and pass the ist over the 2nd, the rest plain. loth row — 26 plain, then a bead in the remaining stitches, nth row — decrease as before, the rest plain. 12th row — knit 27 plain, then a bead in the remaining stitches. 13th row — decrease i, the rest plain. 14th row — knit 28 plain, then a bead in the remaining stitches, this forms one scallop. Repeat from the 3rd row and continue these 12 rows till you have the number of scallops required, pick up 44 stitches the cast on side ; place the 2 needles together and cast off. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. COMBINATION GARMENT. Ladies' Full Size. Materials required: i lb. ex. super, white fingering, bone needles, 2 No. 12, 4 No. 10, and 4 No. 9. Cast on 108 stitches with needles No. 12. 1st row — rib 2 plain, 2 purl all along; continue to rib thus for 15 rows. i6th row— slip i, increase i in next, knit the rest plain, until the last but i, when increase i, knit the last. 17th row — purl, always slip the ist stitch every row. iSth row — plain. 19th row — purl ; repeat the last 4 rows until there are 134 stitches, then increase every 6th row until there are 158 stitches. For l)ack — knit 30 rows without decreasing, then decrease every 6th row. For front part — after increasing to 158 stitches, decrease every 4th row until 124 stitches remain, knit a few rows after without decreasing, altogether 100 rows since decreasing, after increasing to 158 stitches. Knit another leg like the ist, excepting one must be for the right, the other for left. Take 12 stitches from the back of each leg on 2 needles, put them together and knit them, knit 65 more, turn, knit 65 and 12 and 65, making 142 stitches, turn, knit 137, turn, knit 132, turn and continue to knit 5 stitches less every row until 12 remain, knit all the 142 stitches. Take needles No. 10 and rib for 7 inches, using 4 needles and knitting rounds instead of rows. Divide for opening in front, knit 12 rows, casting on 6 stitches to lap over at opening, divide again for armholes, knit 50 rows, leave 5 or 6 stitches from centre of back every other row until 18 remain, cast off all but the 18, which knit for 24 rows, cast off. Knit the other half of back the same ; also the front parts. Join parts for shoulders. For sleeves — knit up 90 stitches, knit 12 rounds, then decrease 2 every 3rd round to form gusset until 70 remain, rib for 12 rounds and cast ofl'. Sew up the legs and 6 inches in front, sew a piece of white braid round the opening, both in front and behind. For the neck — crochet 2 rows of open treble. 3rd row — I double crochet into space, 2 chain, i double crochet into next space. Make a length of chain sufficiently long to run into the open treble, with a tassel at each end. WASHING Now Ready, price sd. AND LAUNDRY CHECK-BOOK. CHILD'S COLLAR AND CUFFS. This useful little collar may be worked with white sewing or crochet cotton, No. 20, or if ecru is preferred, No. 3i loom thread may be used, 2 steel needles, No. 16. Cast on 27 stitches. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row — slip i, knit i, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2 together, knit 19. 3rd row— knit plain. 4th row — same as 2nd row. 5th row — plain. 6th row — same as 2nd row. 7th row — knit plain. 8th row — same as 2nd row. 9th row — cast off 6, leaving 20 stitches on the left hand needle and I on the right, * thread twice over needle, knit 2 together; repeat from * 5 times more, knit 8. Repeat from 2nd row, being careful to form a stitch from each thread on the needle. This can be done as follows: when you come to the 6"places where you put the thread twice over the needle in the previous row, knit the ist thread from the tront of the needle and the 2nd from the back. When this row is finished you should have 27 stitches on your needle. Continue the pattern till you have a length of about 25 inches, then cast off. Toform this piece of edging into a collar, pick up the stitches along the top. Knit a plain row. 2nd row — * knit 2, knit 2 together ; repeat from * all along. 3rd row — * knit 2, put your thread over theneedle, knit 2 together ; repeat from * all along. 4th row— knit plain. 5th row— knit 3, * put thread over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 2 ; repeat from * all along. 6th row — knit plain. Cast off. For each cuff knit a piece of edging measuring 6 inches. Sew the collar and cuffs to a piece of tape, by which they can be tacked to the child's dress and thus prevent the threads of the knitting being broken by constant stitching and careless ripping. No. 3i loom thread can be had from A. E. K., Box 10, P.O. Ballymena, Ireland, price 6d. per skein, post free. By Mrs. LEACH. — Containing How to Wash, Starch, and Iron, with valuable Recipes for Cleaning, Dyeing, &c., and printed Laundry Checks for six months. Of al Ncwsvendors, Price 2d., or post free, three stamps, from R. S. Cartwright, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.C. BRIOCHE PETTICOAT. These directions are lor a petticoat measuring 12 inches in length, to fit a child of 3 years old. It is gored, so fits veiy neatly about the waist. Any two colours can be used, pink or blue and white look extremely pretty. Our model was knitted in crimson and grey. Four skeins of grey and four of crimson Beehive fingering wool, and two bone knitting needles. No. 8, are required. Cast on 12 stitches with the two colours, and 50 with the grey wool. 1st row — * put the wool in front of the needle, slip a stitch as in purling, knit i; the wool should now lie over the slipped stitch; repeat from * using the two colours for the last 12 stitches. These stitches form the border, and are knitted with both wools throughout the petticoat 2nd row — * put the wool in front of the needle, slip a stitch as if in. purling, knit 2 together ; this forms one rib ; repeat from *. After knitting the border, which should have 6 ribs, finish the row with grey wool. 3rd row — knit 25 ribs with grey \^ool and 6 with both 87 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. wools. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows twice more. It requires 2 rows to make i brioche row. t Knit 4 brioche rows entirely with the two wools. For gore — knit 6 ribs \yith both wools, and 3 with the crimson only, turn, knit 3 ribs with crimson, and 6 with both wools. 2nd brioche row — knit 6 ribs with both wools, and 6 ribs with the crimson, turn and knit 6 ribs with crimson, and 6 ribs with both wools. 3rd brioche row — same as 2nd brioche row, only knit 9 ribs with crimson. 4th brioche row — same as 2nd, only knit 12 ribs with crimson. 5th brioche row — same as 2nd brioche row, only knit 15 ribs with crimson. 6th brioche row — same as 2nd, only knit 18 ribs with crimson. 7th brioche row — same as 2nd, only knit 21 ribs with crimson. The gore is now complete. Knit 4 brioche rows with both wools. * Knit 6 ribs with both wools, and 25 with grey, turn, knit 25 ribs with grey wool, and 6 with both wools. Repeat from * 4 times rnore. Repeat from t 12 times more. Knit 2 more brioche rows with grey wool. Cast off the 6 border ribs and 13 grey ribs. Now make the flap for placket by knitting 8 brioche rows with the 1 1 ribs remaining on needle. Cast off. Sew up the petticoat, and fasten the flap neatly underneath. For band — cast on 14 stitches with the grey wool, on No. 14 steel needle. Purl ist row. Knit the 2nd. Repeat these 2 rows. Purl the next. Knit 6 stitches, put the wool twice over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 6. This forms a buttonhole. Purl the next row and see that you have still 14 stitches. Knit and purl the next 5 rows alter- nately. * Your last row will have been knitted. Knit the next row. Purl and knit alternately for 12 more rows. Repeat from * till you have 22 patterns, or till your band measures about 23 inches in length. You can make buttonholes at intervals along the band, if required. Now sew the petticoat evenly to the band. ELASTIC BELT. Specially adapted for Charitable purposes. For some time past we have heard and read a great deal of the evils arising to women whose avocations entail long and continu- ous standing. To all such, whether it be the girl behind the shop counter, the poor woman stooping over her wash-tub, the overworked gentlewoman, or the rheumatic sufferer, these elastic close-fitting belts will be found serviceable, and are strongly recommended for the support as well as the warmth they afford. They are made either strong or light in texture, to suit all purposes and classes. Materials required : for a strong soft belt, 2 skeins of Baldwin's super petticoat fingering wool, the grey undyed is the best, 4 knitting needles. No. 10, and 4 No. 12, either steel or bone, pointed at both ends. Cast on with the needles No. 12, and with the wool double, 49 stitches on the ist needle, 48 stitches on the 2nd needle, and 47 on the 3rd needle, join by knitting i stitch oft" the 1st on to the 3rd needle; this gives 48 stitches on each of 3 needles (a good way of casting on stitches was given in The Fancy Work-Basket, No. 13, page 10). Knit with the wool double for the 1st round, ist round — * knit 3 plain stitches, purl 3 stitches ; repeat from * all round. Now work with the wool single same as the ist round, and continue this ribbing till 18 rounds are worked. Now take the coarser needles and continue the ribbing same as the 1st round for 76 rounds. Then with the finer needles work 17 rounds of the ribbing. Work i round with the wool double. Cast off loosely thus : * knit with the double wool 2 stitches together, put the stitch just knitted back on to the left hand needle ; repeat from * until all the stitches are cast off. Fasten off the wool. Using the finer needles for the top and lower edge of the belt, makes it cling more closely to the figure, and keeps it in position. This belt is about 14 inches deep, and will stretch at the edges to about 36 inches. For a stout person additional stitches must be allowed, and always a number that will divide evenly by 6, so as to form the ribs. They should be made to fit as tightly as can be worn with comfort. Alloa wool makes a stronger belt than the petticoat wool, but it is not so soft. The same sized wool and the same number of stitch»6 are required, if Alloa wool is used. When these belts are washed, the ribs should always be pulled length- ways, never allowing them to spread ; thus it will be restored to its original shape. Where there is not a wringing machine it should be wrung in a towel and dried off quickly. Finer and lighter belts are made by using Balnwin's 4-ply or 3-ply fingering wool, with needles and stitches in proportion, out they are not so strong or suitable for working people as the pattern given. INCREASING. How to increase without making holes. Put the right hand needle through the stitch on the left hand needle, throw the wool over the right needle and take it through the stitch as in ordinary knitting, but do not take the stitch off the needle. Now insert the right hand needle into the back part of the same stitch, throw the wool over the right needle, and take it through the stitch, taking the stitch off the needle. This makes 2 stitches out of i without leaving a hole. In knitting the next row be careful to knit the made stitch separate from the other, so as to form a new and distinct stitch. STRIPE FOR SHAWLS, ANTIMACASSARS, &c. Allow 8 stitches for each pattern, and 2 stitches over, ist row — plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — slip i, knit I, * make i, knil 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the row. 5th row — plain. 6th row— purl. 7th row — plain. 8th row — slip i, knit I,* make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, repeat from *. 9th row — purl. loth row — slip i, knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, repeat from *, there will be 3 stitches to knit at the end of the row. nth row — purl. I2th row — slip I, knit 3, * make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, repeat from *, there will be 2 stitches to knit at the end of the row. 13th row — plain 14th row — purl. 15th row — plain. i6th row — slip i, knit i, * make I, knit 2 toge- ther, repeat from * to the end of the row. 17th row — plain. i8th row — purl. 19th row — plain. NEW METHOD OF JOINING. A neat way to join wool or cotton for either knitting or crochet is to split the end of the wool or cotton you are working with into half ; say, for instance, it is 4-ply, cut off 2 of the strands 4 or 5 inches from the end. Do the same to the end of the wool about to be joined. Overlap the ends of the wool as far as they are split, so making it the same thickness as the original thread, knit or crochet a few stitches with the overlapped ends, taking care to work quite up to the 4 strands of the fresh wool. This makes a secure joining without causing the thick ridge commonly seen when the wool is joined in the ordinary way. Crochet. LADIES' NIGHTCAP. Materials required : — about 2 skeins of Strutt's knitting cotton. No. 18, and a coarse steel hook. Commence by winding the cot- ton 3 times round your little finger, and into the circle thus formed work * I long treble, i chain ; repeat from * 13 times more ; join the last chain into ist treble made. Note : the ist treble in each round is formed by 3 chain. 2nd round — I long treble into space made by I chain in the last row, 2 chain, I long treble into same hole, * 2 chain, i long treble into next, and repeat from * all round. Join every round. 3rd round — i treble, 3 chain, then increase by working I treble, 3 chain, l treble, all into I hole ; do 4 holes without increas- ing, increase once, 3 plain holes, increase, 3 plain holes to finish round. Every round is worked like the 3rd, viz., i long treble, 3 chain. 4th round — 2 holes, increase, i hole, increase, 3 holes, increase, 3 holes, increase, 4 holes, sth round — S holes, mcrease, 8 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. holes, increase, 5 holes, increase, 4 holes to finish round. In the succeeding rounds weshall onlygivethe number of increasings, which you must divide the best way you can. 6th to the 14th round — increase 5 times in each round. 15th and l6th round — plain. This finishes the centre of crown. Now leave 17 holes for the neck, and work backwards and forwards on the|remaining holes^for 1 8 rows, increasing once at the end of every row. Do i row right round cap. This finishes the cap part. Now crochet an edge entirely round it. ist round — 4 chain, i double into every hole. 2nd round — 5 chain, I double into every hole. 3rd round — same as the 2nd. 4th round — 6 chain, i double into every hole. Run a narrow rib- bon through last row but one of [^treble holes round face and last row round neck, and put strings to tie under chin. CHEMISE TOP. Materials : — 4 yards of braid, 3 skeins of Ashworth's Xo. 18 cot- ton, 5 yards of narrow pink ribbon. Take 2 pieces of fancy antima- cassar braid measuring 50 inches each, join each piece neatly to- gether. Now unite the 2 pieces of braid in the following manner, 9 chain, slipstitch in the 3rd and 4th loops of a medallion of the braid, picking both up together, turn, work 9 double in the 9 chain, turn with i chain, work 9 double in the back loops of previous row ; repeat this last row 6 times more. At the beginning of the 6th row instead of turning with i chain, pick up the 3rd and 4th loops of a medallion on the other piece of braid, finish the row as usual. Repeat from beginning into every medallion across front and back, you should have 17 medallions for each, leaving 10 for each shoulder on top piece, and 10 on the other for under arm. Crease the medallions for the shoulders at these places so as to make a square for the neck. Now take 2 pieces of 22 medallions each, join in same way to shoulder and under arm for sleeve in same way, starting from the last tablet of double crochet in neck piece, and working into the same instead of into a medallion, as you have only 20 medallions to work into, while you have 22 for sleeve. When you reach the back, work into tablet the same way. Do the other sleeve the same, ist row of neck — 2 long treble into 1st 2 loops of medallion, keeping last loops on your needle, 3 chain, 2 long treble in next 2 loops, 3 cham, 2 long treble in next 2 loops, 5 chain, and repeat into every medallion until you get to last medal- lion of front, when you work the corner as follows — 2 long treble into 1st 2 loops, 3 chain, 2 long treble into next 2, i long treble into next loop and 3rd loop of next medallion, keep the last loop on your needle, i long treble in next loop, work off 2 long treble in next 2 loops, 5 chain, and repeat in the usual way till you get to the other corner when do it as before, do the other 2 corners in tlie same way. 2nd row — 2 chain, i treble in every alternate s titch all round. 3rd row — I double crochet over treble in last row, * 7 chain, miss 2 treble, i double in next, 4 chain, 2 long treble, drawing both up together in the same stitch as the double was worked into, miss a treble, 2 long treble in the next, 4 chain, I double in the same stitch, and repeat from *. 4th row — 2 long trebles between the 4 long trebles of last row, 4 chain, i double into same stitch, 4 chain, 2 long trebles in the same stitch, 3 chain, double in the centre of last row, 3 chain, and repeat from beginning. 5th row — i double into long treble of last row, 5 chain, i double into next group, and repeat all along. 6th row— like the 2nd. 7th row — double over a treble, 2 chain, treble into next treble, 4 chain, treble into same stitch, 2 chain, and repeat from beginning. Repeat the 1st to the 6th rows on the other side of neck piece. For the sleeves, repeat the ist 5 rows. 6th row — 8 chain, work 2 treble into the 6th, 3 chain, 2 treble into the same stitch, 2 chain, i double into ist chain of 5th row, working just over the leaf, 2 cham, 2 treble into centre of last picot, 3 chain, 2 treble into the same, 2 chain, 10 long treble into the loop at comer you formed by turning; turn with 3 chain, I treble between first 2 long trebles of the 10, i chain, i treble between next 2, and repeat ; 3 chain, 2 treble into heading, 3 chain, 2 treble into same, 2 chain, i double into 5th row of sleeve, working over the trebles, 2 chain, 2 treble into last picot, 3 chain, 2 treble into same, 4 chain, i treble between 2 trebles of last row of trebles, i chain, l treble between all the others, 5 chain, picot back into the 2nd, r double in 1st hole, 5 chain, picot back into the double, I double into next hole, and repeat ; 9 chain, and repeat from begin- ning. In working the last row of 2nd scallop, work it into the 9 chain of previous scallop. INFANT'S BIB. Materials required : i skein of Harden's cotton. No. 20, a steel hook. No. 17, Bell gauge. Make a chain of 165. ist row— work double into every stitch. 2nd row — double over every double, pick- ing up the back loop ; fasten off. 3rd row — leave 58 stitches for side of neck, work 4 consecutive doubles in the next 4 stitches, 6 treble in the next stitch, catch the ist and last together with a slip stitch to form a knob, 3 consecutive doubles, another knob, 15 consecutive doubles, 3 doubles in the next stitch, 15 con- secutive doubles, a knob, 3 consecutive doubles,a knob,4 consecutive doubles; now decrease at the beginning of every row by making no chain to turn with till you reach the 26th row, also in every row in- crease in the centre by working 3 stitches into I. * 4th to 6th rows— plain. 7th row— like the 3rd ; repeat from * 4 times more. Now work 3 plain without chain to turn. After the last row, turn with 2 chain in every row and work 2 stitches into the first. 27th row — like the 3rd. Repeat the 4th to 7th rows 4 times more. 44th row to 46th row— plain. 47th row — 4 doubles, a knob, * 3 doubles, a knob ; repeat from * all along, not forgetting to increase in the centre. 48th row to soth row— plain. 51st row— like the 47th. 52nd to 54th row— plain. This finishes the bib part. Now crochet the following right round bib and neck pieces, also upper edge of neck : i treble into a stitch, i chain, miss a stitch and repeat all round. Do not forget to increase at the comers and in centre by working stitches close together, ist row of border — i double into a hole, 13 chain, miss 2 holes, l double into next ; repeat all round. 2nd row — 13 chain, double over every double. 3rd row — same as 2nd. 4th row — 5 chain, catch the 3 rows of chain together in the centre of loops, make a double ; repeat all round. 5th row— 6 chain, double over double all round. 6th row — 7 chain, double over double all round. 7th row — 13 chain, double over double. Sth and 9th rows— same as the 7th. loth row— 5 chain, catch together the last 5 rows of 13 chain in the centre of loops, make a double ; repeat all round ; at the comers make 12 chain, nth row — l treble, i chain 89 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. miss a stitch and repeat. 12th row, which goes entirely round bib and neck— i double, i treble, 3 long trebles, i treble, I double into a hole, I double in the next hole. Note : in working the loth row, leave the 2 last groups of 13 chain unworked, and in the nth row work about 4 trebles into loops, catching all 3 rows together. This gives a rounded appearance. DRESS For Child of i to 2 Years of Age. Materials required are as follows. — 10 oz. of cardinal single Berlin, 2 bone crochet hooks, Nos. 6 and 8, 5 yards of lace about an inch wide at a penny the yard, 6 bone buttons cardinal. Com- mence at the bottom with finest hook, by working 181 chain rather loose. 1st row — turn and work i treble into the 4th chain stitch from hook, i treble into every stitch of the foundation chain, making 179 treble, join this row by a slipstitch. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, I treble into every treble stitch of last row, taking the back part of stitch, so as to form ribs, and join each row. 3rd row— turn with 3 chain, 1 treble into every stitch. 4th row— turn with 3 chain, and work the same. 5th row — turn with 3 chain, i treble into g of the treble stitches of last row, take the loth and nth stitches together, to decrease ; repeat in same way to end of row. 6th row — plain, that is I treble into every treble stitch of previous row. 7th row — 9 plain, take 2 together to end of row. 8th row — plain. 9th row — 9 plain, take 2 stitches together to end of row. loth row — plain. I ith row — 9 plain, 2 together to end of row, do not join the rows, as this one begins the placket hole. 12th row — plain. 13th row — decrease. 14th row — plain for bodice. 15th row — plain. 1 6th row — plain. 17th row — plain. i8th row — plain. 19th row — plain. 2oth row — plain. 21st row — plain. 22nd row — plain. 23rd row — plain. 24th row — plain. 25th row — plain. For shoulder straps, fasten the wool on to the 24th stitch of treble from the end, work 7 treble, turn with 3 chain, and work in same way for 14 rows or 7 ribs, pass over 3 treble stitches of top, and slipstitch the end of strap on to the 7 succeeding stitches, work the second strap in exactly the same way from the other end. You now do 4 rows of double crochet down the left side of back, to wrap under where it is buttoned. The border is now commenced for the bottom of frock, in Mosaic pattern, using the coarsest hook. 1st row — fasten on wool where the join is, throw the wool over needle, and insert the hook into the 3rd stitch of the foundation chain, work a treble stitch, only drawing the wool through once, instead of twice, as in ordinary treble, work 4 more, that is 5 treble in the same stitch, miss 2 of the foundation chain, I double crochet into 3rd stitch, miss 2 more of the ioundation chain, 5 treble into 3rd stitch again, I double crochet into 3rd stitch ; repeat in this way all round. 2nd row — slip wool through 3 stitches, insert the hook between the 2nd and 3rd treble stitches, draw up the wool loosely, do the same between each stitch, 6 altogether, keeping all the 6 loops on needle 90 at the same time, unite them by i chain ; insert the hook at back, and draw wool through the 2 back stitches, to keep it firm ; i double crochet into same stitch as the group ; draw up 6 more loops in same way, unite by i chain, and draw through back in same way, i double crochet ; repeat all round. 3rd row — work 6 treble, drawing the wool through once into the centre of ist group, that is into the little hole made by i chain to unite the 6 loops of previous row, i double crochet over the double crochet stitch of last row, 6 treble into the 2nd group (the treble all through to be worked in same way as 1st row), continue like this to the end of row. 4th row — in same way as 2nd row, only draw up 7 loops instead of 6, as there are more stitches. 5th row — same as 3rd row. 6th row — same as the 5th row. 7th row — "S treble into the little hole made by I chain to unite the group of stitches in last row, i double crochet over double crochet of last row ; repeat all round the bottom ; this forms a very nice scallop all round, and the border is most effective. For sleeves, fasten on the wool under the arm, and work in same way as the border at bottom of frock, ist row — same, only work 6 patterns of 5 treble round each armhole ; work in same way for 5 rows instead of 7, and the 5th row to have 8 treble far the scallop. For the neck, work all round backs, shoulders and front in same way, 4 patterns each side of back, 6 across the shoulders, and 5 across front. 2nd row— same as bottom. 3rd row — 6 treble, i double crochet to finish the edge round top, pass over i pattern each side of armhole, by I double crochet into the centre of group made by the i chain, this makes the neck square shape, now make 2 tassels and a cord of chain, with double wool, long enough to run all round the neck, and tie behind. For the shoulder knots, make 2 thick tassels of 40 strands of wool, cut and tie with 3 strands of wool, crofchet a thick cord of 35 chain to each tassel, run them in and out of 4 holes at the top of sleeve, and tie in a bow which you must sew down with a needleful of wool to keep them in their place, make 2 more tassels, and do in same way for the other shoulder. For the sash, work 200 chain, and work each side of the foundation chain in same way as for border to frock, form the pattern all round each side and ends, do 2 rows, that will be I star each side, the scallop at bottom to have 8 treble, and 6 at the waist or top ; tack this round waist, and form 2 loops of the rest at back, sew the buttons down the left side of back, and tack lace in neck, sleeves, and all round bottom rather full, when this useful frock will be finished. Ribbon sash and shoulder knots can be substituted for the wool, if preferred, but of course will not wash with it like the wool; still, it has the advantage of being more dressy and fanciful. DRESS IN RUSSIAN CROCHET, 2 TO 3 Years. This pretty dress can be com- posed of any shade of Berlin wool. The model was in pale blue. 7 oz. will be required, a small bone hook, 5 yards of narrow white lace and 2i yards of inch and a quarter blue corded ribbon. The dress consists of a long princess bodice falling over a short full skirt, and is worked in 3 pieces — skirt, front and back of bodice. Commence with the skirt, make a chain of 320, join, i double crochet into ist chain, * i double into each of next 3, 3 double into 5th, i double each into 6th, 7th, 8th, and gib, miss I chain, I double into next, and repeat from * all round. You should have 32 points or Vandykes, join and turn your work inside out. 2nd row— always pick up the back loops of the stitches in previous row in this pattern, * i double into each of 4 consecutive stitches in previous row, 3 double into next, 4 consecutive double into next.4 stitches, miss 2 chain, and repeat from * all round. 3rd to 29th round like the 2nd, always turning your work inside out at every row, unless you prefer not joining it at first, but sewing up afterwards, in which case you can simply work backwards and forwards. These 29 rows complete the skirt portion. To make a heading to sew it to bodice by, work I double into the centre of the group of 3 double, miss I, I long treble into next, miss i, i double long treble into next, miss i, i double long treble into next, miss i, i long treble into next, miss i, I double into next. Repeat all round, and fasten off. For the front of bodice, make a chain of no, and work 11 points into it, work backwards and forwards for 10 plain rows, then work 30 more rows, missing a stitch at the beginning and end of every other row till you have only 8 points, leave 4 in the centre unworked for the neck, and work backwards and forwards for 6 is&flttsafadMiBsaie THE FANCY WORK-BASKET rows on the 2 at each end to form shoulders. This completes the front. The back is worked exactly the same except that after the 14th row, the back is divided, and each half worked backwards and forwards separately to leave the placket hole. Now sew your two pieces together at shoulders and under arms, leaving 14 rows from neck for each sleeve. Begin under the arm, and work 5 points for the sleeve, letting the middle of 3rd point come at top of shoulder, do 7 rows for the sleeve; work a row of double crochet round neck to make it firm, then work the following edging round neck, down placket hole, and round bottom of bodice, * 4 long treble with 2 chain between each into i stitch, miss 2 stitches, i chain, i double into next, i chain, and repeat from.* Now sew the skirt to the bodice, letting the edging and about 2 rows of the pattern overlap the skirt, now crochet a chain, and run through neck, and finish with tassels ; make 2 smaller pieces, which also finish with tassels, and sew half way down placket hole. Pleat the lace nicely round bottom of skirt, and in neck and sleeves, divide the ribbon into 3, only cut one third off, make a large bow for back of skirt of the third, divide the other two thirds into three again, and make three smaller bows, one for each shoulder, and one for back of neck- The dress is now complete. PETTICOAT FOR ONE AND A HALF TO TWO YEARS. This petticoat is very simple in pattern, but most warm and com- fortable. Materials required ; — 3 oz. of white Berlin or petticoat fleecy, I oz. of any colour preferred. The model was pale blue. Com- mence at the neck. Make a chain of 132. ist row — (in white) turn, * miss I, 2 long treble into next ; repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — (in blue) 2 long treble between each 2 sets of 2 long treble in last row. 3rd row — (in blue) same as the 2nd row. 4th row — (in white) same as the 2nd and 3rd. 5th row — (in white) * 2 long trebles between the 2 sets of long trebles 11 times, * i double into next space, 7 long trebles into next ; repeat from* 4 times more, then work 22 sets of 2 long straight across, then do the i double, 7 long trebles 5 times to form the other sleeve. Finish row with 11 sets of long trebles. 6th row — (in white) work the sets of 2 ong trebles till you come to the double crochet before the 1st group of 7 long trebles, miss the 5 groups, make 2 chain, and put 2 long trebles into the space after the last double in last group of 7, 23 sets of 2 long trebles, which will bring you to the other sleeve, miss the 7 groups as before, and work 11 sets to finish row. Work straight across backwards and forwards in white wool for 10 more rows, then work 3 plain rows in blue. You now commence to work sets of 3 long trebles instead of 2 for the skirt. Work 4 rows, increas- ing a set at the beginning and end of each row. In the next row, join round, work 9 plain rows in white, round and round. Then I round in blue, I white, 2 blue, 2 white, 3 blue, i white, which finishes the skirt. Now make an edging of white wool, * 7 long treble into I space, I double into next ; and repeat from * all round. Crochet I double, 3 chain into every space round neck, and the same all round placket. Now crochet 2 pieces of chain about i^ yard each in length, and run in neck and middle row of blue at waist. Make little tassels of blue and white wool and sew on, and thepetlicoat is finished. PETTICOAT FOR CHILD OF FOUR YEARS. Materials required : — 8 oz. of Berlin wool, pale pink. No. I bone hook. Commence with bodice. Make a chain of 122 stitches, throw wool over the hook, and insert needle in 4th chain stitch, draw wool up about f inch in length, draw wool through the 3 loops on needle, wool over hook, and insert in next chain, draw up another long loop, draw through all 3 loops ; repeat to end of row. 2nd row — 1 turn with 3 chain ; repeat the same stitch into every stitch of last row, working into back loop only ; repeat the 2nd row 8 times more. Fasten on for the skirt at the right hand side, wool over needle, and insert in 1st stitch, draw up as before, miss a treble, i double in next, 2 trebles (by trebles we mean the stitch we have previously described) between next 2 stitches ; repeat all along, fasten off. 2nd row — 2 trebles over every double, double between every 2 trebles ; do I more row like this. 4th row — put 3 trebles over every double ; work 1 1 more rows like the 4th. After the loth row, join and work in rounds. i6th row— 4 trebles. 17th to 25th rows— like the l6th. 26th row — 8 trebles. This finishes skirt. Crochet the following edge round neck, backs and placket hole : 3 treble into a stitch, miss i, double into next, and repeat. For the shoulder straps, make a chain of 52, treble into 4th stitch, and treble into ever>' stitch to end. Sew on bodice ; make 2 pieces of chain with double wool, and run in neck of last row but one of bodice ; finish with tassels. GRANNIE BONNET. This bonnet is very light and pretty. The materials required are 2 oz. of Berlin wool, any colour preferred. The model was blue. A bone crochet hook No. 7, 2 yards of 2 inch ottoman ribbon to match the wool, i yard of sarcenet, and a little bonnet wire, if liked a little cream lace to pleat in brim. To commence, make a chain of I J, work I treble into 2nd from needle, I treble into ever>' chain. Now work round the other side of the chain in the same way, but work 3 treble into the comer before coming do\vn the other side of chain. 2nd row — turn with 2 chain, i treble into the back loop of every treble till you get 91 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. to the centre, when you work 3 treble into each of the 3 top stitches ; plain to end. Be sure to pick up the back loop only all through the work. 3rd row — plain. 4th row— increase 3 times in the centre by working 2 stitches into each stitch. 5th row — plain. 6th row — increase twice. 7th row — increase once. 8th row — increase once. 9th row — same as 8th. loth row — plain, i ith row — increase once. I2th, 13th, and 14th rows — plain. This finishes the crown. Work 1 row of treble close together across bottom for curtain. Now commence the brim — I treble into each of the first 4 stitches, 4 treble into 'the next, 6 consecutive treble, 7 treble into next stitch, 7 consecutive treble, 8 treble in next stitch, 7 consecutive treble, 7 treble in next stitch, 6 consecutive treble, 4 treble in next stitch, 4 consecutive treble. Now work another row of treble across curtain, continue it round the front, working 2 treble in the centre of each scallop, work i double, 2 chain into every treble of curtain, this finishes the curtain. 3rd row of front — long treble into every stitch. 4th row of front— I double, 2 chain into every stitch. 5th row — same as the 4th. Now take half a yard of wire, cover it with a piece of sarcenet or some narrow penny ribbon, run it in between crown and brim, take another piece and run in between curtain and crown, fasten securely. For the rosettes, get a piece of cardboard 2 inches wide, wind wool round it 40 times, slip the card out and crochet on to the bonnet ; make about 10 of these for the top, tack- ing them loosely down and close together; make about three-quarters of the ribbon into a bow and put at the left side, make 8 smaller rosettes, tacking one in each scallop of the brim, make 5 or 6 smaller ones for the curtain, divide the rest of the ribbon into 2 and sew on for strings. Line the bonnet with sarcenet, and it is ready for wear. BOOTIKINS FOR A CHILD OF 6 MONTHS. These warm little boots require 2 skeins of white reliance wool, a tolerably fine wooden or bone crochet needle, and a pair of silk laces J yard long. They are the proper size for a baby of about 6 months old. Before commencing to crochet the first boot, wind both skeins of wool, or else wind off a small quantity of the first skein into a second ball, as without this forethought you would be obliged to make an unneces- sary joining on the instep. General directions — in this pattern, at the commencement of a row the loop already on the needle is included in the number of stitches given, thus if directed to have 10 stitches, there should be 9 stitches worked, the loop already on the needle making the loth. To decrease — insert the needle through 2 stitches together, and draw through a loop when working the first half of a row of tricot stitch ; work the second half of the row as usual. Commence by making a chain of 36, then work 1 2 rows of tricot stitch. 13th row — 7 tricots, decrease, 1 8 tricots, decrease, 7 tricots. 1 4th row— tricot stitch. 15th row — 7 tricots, decrease, 16 tricots, decrease, 7 tricots. l6th row — tricot stitch. 17th row— 7 tricots, decrease, 14 tricots, decrease, 7 tricots. i8th row — tricot stitch. 19th row — 7 tricots, decrease, 12 tricots, decrease, 7 tricots. 20th to 22nd row — tricot stitch. 23rd row — with the second ball commence at the nth stitch of last row, work 8 tricots, then return in the usual way. Work 7 more rows of 8 tricots, fasten off. This forms the heel. 31st row — commence where you left off with the first ball, and with it work II tricots (inclusive of the first loop) into the 22nd row, 8 tricots up the side of the heel, 8 tricots across the top, 8 tricots down the 2nd side, and 11 tricots along the remainder of the 22nd row. Observe in this row that the nth stitch from each end must be worked into stitches previously worked into in the 23rd row. This is done to avoid a hole at the corner of the heel. 32nd row — 10 tricots, decrease, 22 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 33rd row — 10 tricots, decrease, 20 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 34th row — 10 tricots^ crease, 16 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 36th row — 10 tricots, decrease, 14 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 37th row — 10 tricots, decrease, 12 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 38th row — 10 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 39th row — 10 tricots, decrease, 8 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 40th row — 10 tricots, decrease, 6 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 41st to 48th row — work without decreasing. 49th row — 8 tricots, decrease, 8 tricots, decrease, 8 tricots. £oth row — 7 tricots, decrease, 8 tricots, decrease, 7 tricots. 51st row — 6 tricots, decrease, 8 tricots, decrease, 6 tricots. 52nd row — 5 tricots, decrease, 8 tricots, decrease, 5 tricots. S3rdrow — 4 tricots, decrease, 8 tricots, decrease, 4 tricots. 54th row — commence this row like ordinary tricot stitch without decreasing, but in returning, instead of working off the stitches in the usual way, draw i loop of wool through all the loops on the needle, draw them in close, and make a chain stitch to secure them. Before breaking off the wool, turn the work wrong side out, lay both edges carefully together, and join them with single stitch as far as the row from which the heel started ; fasten off. Turn the work right side out again, and across the top of the leg work the following — I double into the 1st stitch,* miss I, 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into the next stitch, miss i, I double ; repeat from * to the opposite side. Then to form rows of eyelet holes, down one side of the opening work i double, * I chain, miss 1,3 double; repeat from *. Work the same up the other side, taking care that the sides exactly correspond with each other. The little boots may be further ornamented by working rows of feather stitch, or herring- boning down each side of the seam and opening, and across the top of the boot below the row of fans. This should be done with wool the same colour as the laces. It may also be finished with a cro- chet ruffle, as in the engraving, instead of the feather stitch. The ruffle is made by working 3 chain, I single stitch into each tricot stitch along whichever row you wish to make it. The ruffle may be worked with the white wool. Instead of the silk laces, chains of double wool may be used, but as these would be difficult to lace constantly, they should be made sufficiently long to admit of the boots coming off and on without unlacing them, and tassels should be added to the ends to prevent them slipping out of their places. decrease, 18 tricots, decrease, 10 tricots. 92 35th row — 10 tricots, de- SHAWL IN SHETLAND WOOL. Materials required : half a pound of best quality Shetland wool. Our model was worked in white, but any colour may be used. With a rather coarse crochet needle make a chain of 200 chain stitches. 1st row — miss 2 chain, I treble into the next chain, * miss I chain, 2 treble into the next stitch, repeat from * to end of row. There should be 99 sets of 2 treble across the ist row. Turn back. 2nd row— 4 chain, put the needle through the 3rd of the 4 chain just made, draw the wool through and work in the same way through the back loop of each of the next 2 chain stitches, and through the back loop of each of the next 2 stitches of the last row. There should now be 6 loops on the needle, put the wool over the needle and draw it through all the 6 loops on the needle, make I chain which completes the stitch. * Put the needle through the little ring formed by the I chain just made, draw the wool through, work in the same way through the back loop of each of the 2 next stitches, and through the back loops of 2 stitches of last row ; repeat from * to end of the row. There should be 100 stitches across the row. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Turn back> 3rd row— 2 chain, I treble into the ring made hy the chain stitch of the last stitch of the last row, * 2 treble into the next ring of last row, repeat from * all across the row. Repeat the last 2 rows until a perfect square is worked. Then for the border or edge work thus: * 3 chain, i double, miss i stitch, repeat from * all round the shawl and at the 4 corners work without missing any stitches. 2nd row — * 3 treble, I chain, 3 treble all over the ist 3 chain of last row, i chain, I double over the next 3 chain of last | row, I chain, I double over the next 3 chain of the last row, i chain, repeat from * all round, taking care to keep the work flat at the corners by making extra stitches if necessary. 3rd row—* 3 treble, I chain, 3 treble over the I chain between the 2 sets of 3 treble of last row, i chain, i double over the next i chain of last row, I chain, i double over the next chain of last row, i chain, repeat from * all round. 4tli row — same as 3rd row, and at the corners, if necessary to keep the work flat, increase by working 6 treble, with l chain between the 3rd and 4th stitches, into the space between the 2nd and 3rd treble of the last row, I chain, 1 double between the 2 sets of 3 treble of last row, 6 treble, with i chain between the 3rd and 4th stitches in the space between the 4th and 5th treble of last row. 5th row — * 3 treble, I chain, 3 treble over the i chain between the trebles of last row, i chain, i treble over the next i chain, i chain, i treble over the next I chain ; 1 chain, repeat from * all round. 6th row — ** 9 treble between the 6 treble of last row, * I chain, i double over next I chain, repeat from * twice more, i chain ; repeat from ** all round, OPERA CLOAK. This cloak is in dolman form, and is quite a novelty. It is, of course, best to crochet it to a pattern, but the direc- tions are for a medium figure. Materials required : — | lb. of pale blue Andalusian wool, 7 skeins of Madras wool, I yard of pale blue satin ribbon, 2 inches wide, a small bone hook. Make a chain of blue wool of I yard 3 ' inches in length. 1st row — double crochet into every stitch. 2nd row — turn with i chain, double crochet into every stitch, taking up both loops, in- creasing I at end. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — like the 2nd. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows 4 times more. Now join on the Madras wool, and do 2 plain rows, 2 rows blue, 2 Madras, 2 blue, 2 Madras, do 10 rows of blue. 33rd row — decrease at the beginning of row. 34th row — increase at the beginning of row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. 39th row — with Madras wool, decrease at beginning. 40th row — with Madras, increase. 41st row — with blue, decrease. 42nd row — with blue, increase. 43rd row — with Madras, decrease. 44th row — with Madras, increase. 45th row — in blue, decrease. 46th row — in blue, decrease at end. 47th row — in Madras, work to within 3 inches of the neck. 48th row — in Madras, decrease at end. Now work 16 rows of blue, decreasing at the beginning and end of each row. Now do 2 rows of Madras, i of blue. Now break off, and begin within 4J inches from the end. Do another plain row of blue, 2 of Madras, 2 of blue. Now begin another stripe of Madras 3 inches further on, measuring from end, not neck ; do 2 more rows of blue. You now increase for the shoulders until further orders. Fasten on blue wool 6 inches from where you commenced last Madras stripe. You thus have an end 18 inches long. Work 14 rows of blue, 2 of Madras, 2 of blue ; at the end of ist row of blue make a piece of chain 2^ inches long, and work on it. This will complete i side of shoulder. Now do 2 Madras rows, 2 blue, 2 Madras rows, work to within 3 inches of neck, 4 blue rows, work to within 5 inches of neck, next blue row work to end of Madras stripe, next row carry right up to neck. Now do 8 plain rows, 2 Madras rows, decreasing at shoulder again ; keep on decreasing at shoulder for the present, 2 blue rows, 2 Madras, 2 blue, 2 Madras, 16 blue rows, 2 Madras. Now work into the shoulder-seam in each row 2 blue rows, 2 Madras, 16 blue rows, which brings you up to the neck again. Now another stripe of Madras, 16 rows of blue, another stripe of Madras, 16 rows of blue, decreasing at each row at the shoulder ; another stripe, still decreasing, i6 rows of blue, working into the shoulder-seam, 8 plain rows of blue. Now make this side match the other by leaving portions of the rows un worked, another stripe, 16 rows blue, decreasing for shoulder. This brings you to right front, which make exactly like the left. Crochet 12 rows of double for a collar-band. Fringe the mantle all round with blue, also round neck. Put a tassel of Madras wool at each Madras stripe, and 3 close together about 2 inches apart down fronts and round neck. Divide ribbon in two and sew on neck. Get a piece of white elastic and sew from front to back shoulder- seam at each side, to keep the mantle in place. SCARF IN SHELL STITCH. A very comfortaljle necktie, such as would be much appreciated by ladies who suffer from a delicate throat in winter, may be cro- cheted in the warm and pretty shell stitch or point neige, as it is sometimes called. Such minute direc- tions for working this stitch have already been given in No. i of the Fancy Work- Basket, that it would be simply a waste of time and space to detail the method of working it once more in this place. An- dalusian or Cocoon wool is the best to make use of, with a moderately stout bone crochet hook. Make a chain the required length — wehavefound 185 a verygoodlength, but no two people work quite alike, and a very tight worker would have to add a few ititches to this number It is as well to miss a chain here and there on the foundation row, as the scarf will then set better and flatter. This number of chain will allow for about 90 shells. Work 10 rows of the pattern, arranging the colours thus — 2 rows white, i row crimson, and 4 rows white, I row crimson, and 2 rows white. It is easy to plan a wider scarf, if this is thought too narrow. If the crochet is evenly and regularly worked it will look nearly as neat and pretty on the wrong side as on the right. For the border — ■ work a row with crimson all round, but to make an edging of shell stitch it is necessary to work 4 or 5 chain stitches instead of the I chain that is made after drawing the wool through the 6 loops. This will make a sort of small picot or loop, which gives a pretty finish. Be careful to work in the ends of wool that are left at the end of every row very neatly. A coarse darning or chenille needle effects this much more satisfactorily than a crochet hook does. 93 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. SHAWL IN PYRENEAN WOOL. Materials required: — ^Ib. of wool, bone hook about No. 6. Make a round by twisting the wool several times round a pencil, or something of a similar size, ist round — work very loosely into this 4 chain, 23 treble (for a tight worker it will be better to make a double treble, or, as some people call it, a long treble, by putting the wool twice round the needle instead of once, but this does not give so pretty or so lacy an effect), join into the 4th of the 4 chain. 2nd round — 4 chain, i treble into the ist space between the treble of last round, I treble into each succeeding space, join as in last round. 3rd round — I double crochet in the same space, 3 chain, i double crochet into the next space. Repeat this into each space between the trebles of the last round; join with I double crochet in the space where you commenced. 4th round — i double crochet into the space made by the 3 chain, miss 2 of these spaces and into the 3rd work 14 treble very loosely, miss 2 spaces, work i double crochet into the next, miss 2 spaces, work 14 treble into the next, mis€ 2 spaces, i double crochet into the next, miss 2 spaces, 14 treble into the next, miss 2 spaces, I double crochet into the next, miss 2 spaces, 14 treble into the next; join by I double crochet into the same space as the ist double crochet. 5th round — make the stitch on the needle long, and make i single into the ist space of the ist 14 treble, 4 chain, I treble into each of the next 12 spaces between each treble, miss the intermediate double crochet and work i treble into each of the 13 spaces of the next block of 14, repeat this at each block of 14; join into the 4th of the 4 chain. 6th round — i double crochet into the space formed by the 3 chain and I treble of preceding round, 3 chain, i double crochet into the next space, repeat all round; join as before in 3rd round. 7th round — into the space last made work 2 chain and 3 treble, miss 2 spaces, work i double crochet into the next, miss 2 spaces, 14 treble into the next, miss 2 spaces, I double crochet into the next, miss 2 spaces, 8 treble into the next (which on each side must be the space formed by the 3 chain exactly over the double crochet of the 4th row), miss 2 spaces, I double crochet into the next, 14 treble into the next 3rd space, i double crochet into the next 3rd space, 8 treble into the next 3rd space, and so on till you come to where you started from, here you have as good as 4 trebles, counting the 4 chain as i treble, so work 4 more trebles to make up the number to 8, and join into the 4th of the 4 chain. 8th round — 4 chain, i treble into each space be- tween the trebles of the blocks of 8 and blocks of 14; join as usual. 9th round — I double crochet into the space just made, 3 chain and I double crochet into the next, repeat all round as usuaL loth round — i double crochet into the space just made by the 3 chain, miss 2 spaces, 8 treble into the 3rd, which should come exactly over the double crochet of 7th row, miss 2 spaces, I double crochet into the 3rd, 14 treble into the next 3rd space, and repeat as in the 7th row, only in this row you will have 8 blocks of 8, as well as the 4 blocks of 14, which make the corners. The nth and 12th rounds are the same as the Sth and 9th. The 13th the same as the loth, only you will have 12 blocks of 8, and so in each 3rd round you will increase by 4 blocks of 8, which must always come over the double crochet. This pattern is also pretty in Shetland wool, but is, of course, not so lacy looking. The shawl should be finished with a fringe in the ordinary way. 94 PETTICOAT FOR CHILD OF THREE YEARS. Materials : Medium sized bone hook, about No. 8, 3 skeins of Berlin fingering. There are 19 skeins to the pound, so that 2 skeins are hardly sufficient, as the petticoat should weigh 2 czs. Make, a chain of 100. ist row — i treble into each chain taken double ; this is for a ribbon to be run through. 2nd row — turn and work back, I double crochet, 2 treble into each space made by each treble of the last roiv. 3rd row — I double crochet into the double crochet of the last block of the last row, 2 treble into the same space ; repeat this block into each double crochet of the last row. Each row is now the same, backwards and forwards. When long enough, which it will be when you have done about 42 rows, make a row of i double crochet, 2 chain, 3 trebles into each double crochet of last row. This makes a scallop. Crochet two thirds of the sides together on the wrong side. On the side you wish to lap over, work i double crochet and 2 trebles into the space between the 2 trebles of each block up the side, work back; when you reach the top or row of chain, I double crochet, 12 chain, 3 trebles into the double crochet of the blocks of last row. Fasten this doAvn with i double crochet into the petticoat as in ordinary petticoat, and work the row of double crochet up the other side. Fasten off. If a larger petticoat is required a longer chain must be made to begin with. A very pretty variety to this stitch, if you have plenty of wool, is to make 3 trebles instead of 2 into each space. This gives a bumpy effect. SHAWL. The same stitch isaverypretty stitch in Shetlandor Pyrenean wool for shawls. The same sized crochet hook, i lb. of wool if Shetland, 4 lb. if Pyrenean. A chain of 240 or 261 to commence with, ist row — I double crochet into the last chain, 2 treble into the next, miss I chain, i double crochet into the 4th chain, 2 trebleinto the 5th, miss 6th, I double crochet into the 7th, and continue to the end of the row. 2nd row — turn the work and work,back, 1 double crochet, 2 treble into the double crochet of last block ; repeat to the end of the row. There should be 80 blocks for 240 chain, 87 blocks for 261 chain in each row. Continue till you have a square. You ought then to have the same number ot blocks at each side as at the top, deducting i at' each end for the corners. For instance, with 80 blocks there should be 78 each side. Keep back ^ lb. and 4 oz. of Shetland wool or 2^ ozs. of Pyrenean from the pound or 4 lb. This is for the fringe. Do not wind these skeins, but cut them at both ends, which makes a nice length for fringe. Keep i oz. and a fourth part of the ^ oz. for each side. This will save much trouble in calculating and ensure a sufficiency of the wool. Put as many threads of the wool as you can allow into each block all round the shawl. Then tie the half of one to the half of the next about | of an inch from the shawl. When this is done all round, if the length of the fringe allows, tie the 2 halves back again about f of an inch from the last knot. This makes the shawl larger and adds a nice finish — an ordinary knot does. If there is any wool over, or the shawl is not large enough, before putting on the fringe, a border may be worked either in another colour or the same. When the square is perfect, work round and round in the same stitch, taking care to enlarge sufficiently at the corners in the following manner, so as to keep it nice and flat, ist round — instead of working back, as you have hitherto done, continue working down the side i double crochet and 2 treble into the same space as the last block, then i double crochet and 2 treble into the space between the 2 trebles of THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. each block at the side, 2 blocks of 1 double crochet and 2 treble each into the next corner, then i double crochet and 2 treble into the space between the double crochet and I treble of the ist row. Care should be taken to put it into the right space, as it then leaves, the thread of wool distinct, which is one of the features of the pattern — 2 blocks at the corner again, and when you have worked up the other side, make 1 block into the same space as the 1st block of the last row along the top. This is the starting point, as you must work backwards and forwards. Join neatly with i double crochet and turn the work; i double crochet and 2 treble into the double crochet of the block just made, and work back plain blocks of I double crochet and 2 treble into the double crochet of each block of the last round until you come to the comers, where you work 2 blocks into the double crochet of the 2nd of the 2 blocks in i spa-ce of last round — in reality, the block that in this round comes first; repeat this at each corner until you come to the point from which you started. The 2 blocks in the same space will end this round. Join as before with i double crochet into the double crochet of the first block of this round, turn and work back, beginning this round with the corner. 3rd round — 2 blocks into the double crochet of the first of the 2 in the same space; repeat this at each corner. Every round the same until the shawl is large enough, which is entirely according to the taste of the worker. The last round of all must be i double crochet, 2 chain and 3 treble into each block. There is no need in this round to increase at the corners. The fringe to be worked into the space formed by the 2 chain. FLUTED MAT FOR FLOWER VASE. You will require about i oz. of cardinal fingering, and J- an oz. of white, both of the best quality, bone crochej^ hook. No. ir. Com- mence with cardinal wool and work 3 chain, unite by a slipstitch, and work 2 double crochet stitches into each chain stitch ; keep on round and round, in this way, increasing when necessary to make it lie flat, by working two stitches into one ; the round is to measure about 5 inches across. For ist row of flutes— work 5 double crochet stitches, 3 into the 6th stitch, 5 again — the 3 into i is for the point. 2nd row— 7 double crochet, 3 into the 8th stitch, 7 double again, work all round, there should be 17 or 18 points, whichever takes up all the stitches will do. 3rd row — 9 double crochet stitches, 3 into the middle stitch, 9 again ; repeat all round. 4th row — n double crochet, 3 into the 12th stitch, 11 again. 5th row — 13 double crochet, 3 into the 14th stitch, 13 double again. 6th row — 7 double, pass over i stitch, 7 double, 3 into the 8th stitch, 7 again, pass over I stitch, this is to form a small row of holes between the flutes. 7th row — 7 double crochet, pass over 2 stitches, 7 double again, 3 into 8th stitch, 7 double ; repeat this all round. 8th row— the same. 9th row — the same. loth row — the same, nth row — with white wool, the same. 12th row — 3 chain, i double crochet into every stitch of previous row, but pass over 2 stitches each side, which will be 4 instead of 2 between the flutes, as in previous rows ; this forms a full edge all round, when the mat will be completed. It can be worked in any colour liked, also in single of double Berlin ; a piece of cardboard might be covered with a piece of silk or lining just the size of the plain centre, tor the vase to stand on. PETTICOAT FOR INFANT IN FANCY TRICOT STITCH. Materials reqiired : — about 34 ozs. of single Berlin wool, and a good sized tricot hook. The pattern was made in a pretty shade of tan-coloured wool. Make a chain of 50, pick up the stitches the same as for ordinary tricot and work back. In the next and all succeeding rows, pick up the perpendicular loop at the back instead of the front. Work 6 rows, and in the next row, work as far as the 3rd stitch from the end and then back. In the next row, pick up the whole number. This makesthe petticoat not quite so full round the waist. Continue working in this way, goring it after every 6th row till you have 120 rows in all. For the band, pick up 90 stitches round the waist, and work i row. In the next i-ow, work as far as 6 stitches from the end, make 3 chain, miss 3 stitches and pick up the last 3. Pull the wool through the chain stitches as you go back. This makes the button hole. Work another row to finish the band. Join up the skirt two thirds of the way. Add a button the other side of the band. Work a row of crazy stitch all round the skirt, i single crochet, 3 chain, 4 treble all into' the same hole, miss 3 rows of the skirt and repeat all round. WOOL BASKET. This is useful for small keys, reels of cotton, &c. You require 4 oz. of black single Berlin, same quantity of amber or any 2 colours you like, bone crochet hook, No. 6. Commence at the bottom with black wool, and work 2 chain, unite, and work in double crochet, taking the hook between the stitches ; increase, when necessary, to make it lie flat by , , working 2 stitches mto I ; when you have done 6 rows, begin with amber wool, keeping both balls of wool in use at the same time. 7th row— throw the wool over the hook as for treble, and draw it up loosely twice, which will look like 4 loops, but is in reality only 2 drawn up, unite by i chain work 30 tufts all round the last row of double crochet. Sth row- draw up black wool, and work in same way between each tuft of previous row. 9th row— same in amber. loth row — in black, nth row— in amber. 12th row— in black, i double crochet, 3 chain, the ist caught back to the 3rd chain to form a picot,' i double crochet between the next tuft ; continue this all round, which forms a picot edge, as a finish. For the handle — with amber wool, work 35 chain on one side of basket, turn, and work a row of double crochet, then with black Mork i row double crochet each side of the amber, and fasten on to the other side. If a firmer basket is wanted, cut a piece of thin cardboard and lay in the bottom, and line the basket. 95 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. CASES FOR BINDING. An elegant case, in cloth gilt, fof binding the first twelve numbers of The Fancy Work-Basket, with title and contents, is now ready, price is. ^d. Volume I., neatly and elegantly bound, may be had for 3^., or 3^'. 6d., post free. A usefal and beautiful gilt book. FEZ PENWIPER. You can use up any odds and ends of wool for this, but red and black looks well. Use a steel hook, No. i^, or fine bone one. Work 2 chain and unite ; work in double crochet, taking the hook between the stitches, until it measures 2 or 3 inches across. You must increase when neces- sary to make it lie flat by working 2 stitches into one ; fasten on black wool, and work 2 rows, no more increasing, i row red, 2 rows black, i row red, 2 rows black, 3 or 4 rows red, according to depth you wish it to be ; fasten off. This is now ready for the tassel. Wind the wool over 3 fingers 6 times, cut, tie with i strand of wool, and work 6 chain, draw the end of wool through on to the wrong side and fasten off. Now wind a lot of black wool, or any odd bits you have, over your fingers about 100 times, tie, and sew to the inside at top ; turn it right side out, after firmly securing it on the wrong side ; this is to wipe the pens on. Cut it across the bottom with a sharp pair of scissors, so that it will stand on the table. TIPPET FOR OLD LADY. In our model three shades of grey wool were used with black. One skein of fingering wool in each colbur will be enough. Use a coarse wooden crochet needle. Commence by working a chain about 15 inches in length with the lightest shade of grey wool. Turn and miss 4 stitches, and work i treble into the next stitch, * I chain, miss i, I treble, repeat from * all along. Turn, 5 chain, * 1 double into first of these 5 chain, i double into next chain stitch of last row. 5 chain ; repeat from * all along. Mark the centre of the tippet with a white thread as there is to be an extra loop made there in each row. Turn, 5 chain, i double into first stitch of 5 chain, i double into last double of last row. (This forms an extra loop at the edge.) Always keep the loops on the right side, t 5 chain, i double into ist of 5 chain, i double into the double of last row between the next two loops. Repeat from t till you come to the centre loop of last row, make a loop, and work i double into the double stitch which forms the centre loop. Make a loop, and work i double into the next double stitch. You will now have 2 loops into the centre loop. Increase in this way in each row. Repeat from f till you come to the end of row, then make a loop, and work i double into ist chain stitch of last loop. Turn and repeat last row till the collar is as deep as you wish, dividing the different shades as evenly as possible thus— 3 rows of pale grey, 3 rows of the next shade, 3 rows of the darkest shade, and four of black. Fasten off. Take the darkest shade of grey, and com- mence at the front corner, holding the right side of the tippet next you. Work doubles all along the edge till you come to the chain with which you commenced, 3 chain, i treble into each stitch of the foundation chain. Work doubles all down the other front edge. Take the black wool, and commence on first double of last row, work doubles up front edge. Along the trebles of last row, work i double, 2 chain, miss i, i double ; doubles down the other front edge. Fasten off. Run J yard black ribbon through the trebles with a chain stitch between. Of course any colours can be used, and the tippet can be made much deeper if it is to be used as a winter wrap. Answers to Correspondents. In compliance with the request of numerous suhscrihers, loe have decided to open a column in which u'e will answer ani/ queries relating to Fancy Work. Such queries should be written clearly on one side of the paper only, and headed " Wokk-Basket," and should reach us not later than the lith of the month to ensure reply in next issue. A nom de plume must he affixed to each. Marie.— We think the announcement in present issue will answer your query. A Novice.— We think the little Brioche Petticoat given this month will tell you how to shape your own. E. B. — I. There have been 16 numbers issued previous to present issue 2. We cannot give you any special addresses. 96 Handsworth. — Work the cape from the directions given in No. 13, but omit the increasings at shoulders. The best way would be to have a pattern to work to. Theodosia. — I. A very similar pattern to the leaf was given in No. 10, but we will give you exact directions later on. The other pattern is diamond with open trellis, which was given in No. 11. 2. For receipt for Elderberry Wine, see February "Family Dressmaker." Eliza. — l. We are very son7 we cannot give you the address this month, but will do so in March. 2. We have revised and altered the Emigrant's Vest, and if you will send a^d. will send you the new edition, or on receipt of a stamped addressed envelope we will send you a pattern tacked up. Marigold. — i. We will rectify the directions for knitted edging in future editions, and if you will send a stamped envelope we will send you corrected copy. 2. Slipstitch is the same as single crochet, viz., put your needle in a stitch and draw cotton through and through loop on needle at once. Canticle. — i. We dp not know. 2. Walker's Bell Gauge is a small bell, about 3 inches long. You do not give your town, but any Berlin wool shop should get it for you. The price is 6d. 3. Petticoat fleece is very nice for sofa rugs. Yarn is too thin, and single Berlin is not good to wear and wash. 4. Yes, the colours named will wash well, but would not be a very artistic combination. A Subscriber. — A handsome bed-cover could be made of Roman sheeting with crewel or tapestry designs. A lovely quilt was shown in last issue. Cheaper, however, and quite as effective, would be a crochet couvrette in point neige, shades of crimson and sage-green, or stripes of tricot with diamond centres and crocheted together with another colour. If you look through the back numbers you are sure to meet with something. M. F. — Full directions for working point neige were given in No. i "Fancy Work-Basket," which will be sent you on receipt of 2j(/. The Elfan dolman is worked across, and is commenced at the bottom. The chains are added to make the rows longer. Thus, if the 2nd row should be an inch longer at each end than the Ist you would make a few chain and work shells on it ; then join into ist row and work across, then make a few chain at end, and work shells into it. 2. Do you mean Madeira embroidery or crewel work ? If so, the price depends on the article. In No. i you will see a list of prices for different things kept by us, which will perhaps give you an idea. 3. The best way is to have a traced pattern and then copy as near as possible the natural leaf. Westbury. — I. We are sorry we cannot give you the desired informa- tion, as the advertisement does not appear in our columns, but we should not advise the lady to make any outlay of that sort. She is more likely to find sale for children's garments, ladies' petticoats, shawls, &c. This, however, can only be done by getting up a connection among private friends and applying to shops. 2. We are surprised you cannot get the Beehive wool in Croydon. We should have thought every Berlin wool shop would keep it. However, you are sure to get it from Wakeford Brothers, King's Road, Chelsea. 3. Messrs. Barclay & Crawford, Church Street, Ballymena, County Antrim, Ireland, supply the Yak yam at is. the 3 oz. skein, in black and cream. Denbigh. — i. Narrowing always means "take 2 together." 2. Slip stitch and single stitch are synonymous, and are both accepted terms. Having some dozen or so of contributor, it is impossible to use the same words always. 3. If no directions are given to either turn or fasten offi it is a mistalce, and if you will point out the particular patterns in which it occurs, we will rectify them. 4. Creeve is merely a name adopted by some ladies who contribute to our pages. 5. We think we devote a great deal of space to crochet ; we cannot well do more without ousting all other kinds of work. We can only repeat that any errors pointed out, or difficulty in working patterns, is at once attended to by us. 6. Walker's Bell Gauge costs only 6d., and will test both crochet hooks and knitting needles. Most of our patterns are tested by that. 7. We quite agree that a fresh line for every row would catch the eye better, but fear it would occupy too much space. With regard to the abbreviations we cannot agree with you. We think they are very much more tedious to follow. We vdll endeavour to make the rows clearer by having them printed in blacker type. ♦ Sale and Exchange. In compliance with the request of numerous suhscrihers, we have decided to open a column for the Sale or Exchange of Ladies' Work, the charge for which will he 3d. for every 8 words. No trade announcemetits of any Tcind mil he inserted. For the convenience of those sithscrihers who do not wish their addresses to appear, we will affix a number to their advertisement, and receive answers at this office at a further charge of Is. per month. Replies to such advertisemetits must he enclosed in a stamped envelope, with the numher of advertisement written in the left-hand corner, ready for re-direction, and he sent under cover to the Editress, 8, Johnson's Court, 'Fleet Street, London, K.G. Please 'Sote.— Always un-ite " Work-Basket" on top of each letter. Pretti crochet edgings, 31/. per yard ; lovely fine, ^d. Beautiful wide linen lace for brackets, furniture, dresses, &c., 2s. per yard. — Address,ORPHAN, care of the Editress. Children's wool petticoats, with bodice, from 2^. 6d. ; babies' hats, zs. 6d. ; hoods, 2s. 6d. ; boots, is. ; bibs, u.— Miss Cockburn, 36, Surrey Square, London. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. On the Painting of various Articles for our Homes. Chapter III. I.— Drain Pipes. II.— Tables. III.— Screens. A Drain Pipe must be entirely covered with paint, the colour of which should be chosen in reference to the prevailing colour of the room in which it is to stand. For instance, where green is the prevailing tint, the following design of yellow Iris would be appro- priate. First of all, the pipe must be covered with two coats of light green paint. This can generally be procured in pound tins, or one can get the required tint mixed to order. An ordinary painter's brush of a small size is used, which can be hired at any oil shop for a few pence a week. The paint must be put on as evenly as possible, and the first coat must be allowed to dry thoroughly before attempting to put on the second, and this again should be allowed to dry before the flowers or other design is painted. . Treat the flowers as if growing from the base of the pipe. It is by far the best to draw the design on paper first. As a guide to the colouring, a coloured copy should be procured, or, better still, the colours might be taken from nature if the plants are available. The design being entirely for effect a fine finish is not needed, indeed, it would be entirely thrown away; a bold st)'le, by which the effect is shown in a few touches, is what is required in this kind of work. Bear in mind, also, that the pipe is to stand on the floor, the design being below the level of the eye, therefore, any flowers painted on it must be growing from the base ; whereas in painting flowers on an article which is to be placed above the level of the eye, they should be falling or trailing do%vn Another pretty design we would suggest for a pipe is a blue-grey groimd with bright scarlet poppies, with their soft grey-green leaves. A few brief directions for the painting and colouring of scarlet poppies may not be out of place here. Draw the outline of the flower with pure vermilion, and fill in the whole of it with the same colour. Brown madder and crimson lake mixed is the shadow colour. For the black mark at the bottom of the petals, mix ivory black with just a touch of Antwerp blue. The crumpled appearance is obtained with painting the outline with squarish dabs of crimson lake across the petals, then paint dabs of scarlet vermilion where the crimson ends. For the high lights drag on a little flake white very lightly. For the stem, mix permanent blue and pale chrome. The stem of a poppy is ver)' thin. Spread the brush and make minute lines on each side of the stem to look like hairs. For the leaves, a green made of raw sienna and Antwerp blue is painted over the whole of the leaf. For the light green, use a mixture of emerald green, pale chrome, and flake white, and put it on where the light falls. Or, the design may be a conventional one, blue and white, or light and dark blue. These drain pipes, when decorated, are used as flower stands, umbrella stands, or as vases to hold tall grasses or rushes. Now that we no longer have one large table, but several small ones, in our drawing-rooms, a pleasing variety may be procured by painting one or two; for one gets rather tired of the tapestry cloth, stamped velvet, plush, &c., with the inevitable fringe or lace, which is so universally used as a co\ering. By using b'ack enamel one can be painted to represent ebony which might be picked out with gold paint. This black enamel is better than paint, as it requires no varnishing. A second table might be painted black or some colour to harmonise with the prevailing colour of the room, and a design of flowers or leaves, with two or three bright coloured birds painted on it, the method of painting bemg the same as described for a milking stool in a former paper. When finished it must be varnished with copal varnish, putting it on very smoothly and evenly. The legs, of course, should be painted to correspond with the ground- work o( the top of the table. For all kinds of decorati\e work on a larger scale than a milking stool, use hog hair brushes, either round or flat, but not too small. There are numberless small wooden articles made for painting, sabots, glove boxes, paper cutters, miSnu frames, blotting covers, calendars, table easels, &c., &c. ; in fact there is no end to things that the one who is able to use her brush can accomplish, in order to make her home beautiful at a comparatively trifling cost. VoL II.— No. \% The sabots, when painted, are hung against the wall. They are painted entirely of one colour, and sometimes covered with Japanese gold paper. Screens, both large and small, are most useful, and also can be made highly ornamental. We venture to think that we can produce in our homes some very beautiful screens with a little trouble, combined with good taste. First, a plain deal frame must be pro- cured. It ought to consist of three or four wings (but if liked it can be only two) about six feet high or three, according to taste. These wings are to be covered with the material to be painted. "Lincrusta Walton" takes the paint very well, and is not expensive to buy. A dull green colour would be the best. Each wing should be covered separately, the covering being stretched quite tight. When the wings are finished they can be joined together by hinges. The ne.xt thing is the ornamentation. For those who have not the courage to paint such a large subject, the following is a good plan. Procure for each wing several really good groups of coloured flowers or fruit. These pictures must be thoroughly wetted with paste ; while pasting them on the leather all blisters must be carefully smoothed out, if not they will be an everlasting eyesore. These pictures are to be arranged near the base of the screen. AVhen this is done, birds, butterflies, sprays of grasses or flowers are to be added by painting. If a mistake is made in the painting it can easily be hidden by having another picture pasted over the place. Each wing is to be treated in the same manner, of course making as much variety as possible. We now come to consider the method of painting a screen entirely by hand. Lincrusta Walton or American cloth (the latter is delightful to work upon) must be stretched in the same manner as mentioned before upon the framework of the screen. If Lincrusta Walton be chosen, the design must be painted on pretty thickly, or the grain of the leather will show through the paint. Use large hog hair brushes, and, as we said before, try and get the effect wanted in a few bold touches. The design can be based upon familiar plants, and can be either thrown over the space to be painted, or growing from the base. The plants kno-\\-n the best to the painter should be chosen, and if the natural flower can be procured as a copy, so much the better. There is no particular medium for painting on Lincrusta W^alton or American cloth ; meguilp is used to moisten the paints, which is sold with all boxes of oil paints, or can be bought separately for threepence a tube. The design should be first drawn on paper, by doing so a mistake can easily be rectified. Avoid getting too many leaves into the panel, which would give a confused appearance. The plant selected should fill out the panel, so that the interest is distributed over the surface and not confined to one spot. Birds and butterflies might be introduced with advantage, and would give additional interest, but those who have not had much experience in painting birds had better not attempt them. A design consisting of water-lilies, rushes and birds is suitable for a screen of this kind. The water can be represented by fine strokes of white paint. To show distance, make the water-lilies smaller, as they appear to recede, as also the rushes. They should be of a lighter colour ; also, standing in the water at the base, might be painted a heron, and one or two kingfishers would add to the effect if they were introduced. Some screens are bordered with black wood, the border being put on after the covering is stretched over the frame. This, ot course, must be done by a carpenter. A very handsome screen v/e saw was of French grey American cloth, bordered with a band of black wood about three inches wide. This screen consisted of three panels, six feet high, and each panel was decorated with a different design: on one was painted a branch of apple blossom ; on the centre, Arum lilies were represented as growing from the base ; the third had a spray of violet clematis. The top was surmounted by black wood, car\-ed in ornamental points, which gave a delightful finish to the whole. In the next chapter we will deal with fire-screens and splashers. {To be continued.) A Beautiftl & Useful Gut Book. Now ready, price Ss., VoL L, handsomely bound in cloth gut, jj-j,g LEACH'S FANCY WrRK-BASKET. Conta in ing 250 Pages, with over I'lOO Receipts, fully Illustrated, for making lovely things in Knitting,- Crochet, Ait Needlework, Embroidery, Macrame 'Work, Home Decoration, Bead Work, Photograph Painting, Crystoleum Paintirg, Mirror Painting Terra Cotta Painting, Smocking, Kells Embroidery, Presents for Gentlemen, &c. A Lady writes:— "This practical book should be in every household." Mav be had of all Booksellers, or post fi'ee, 3s. 6d. R, Cabt^vrigft, S, Johnson's Ct., Fleet St , London. 97 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET ,-. -,, ^ .n -ft— .>m^-y< ,/\ r\ n f< . r, ^ ^ ,rt^. ft^ m^-m^ Fig. I. LACE MAKING. Lace making is a charming occupation, but it cannot be classed as one of the general employments of the nineteenth century. Perhaps in these days of steam and electricity feminine fingers consider it waste of time to linger on such tedious, though fascinating work. Doubtless our ancestors found it so, or pillows and bobbins would not have come into use. Then came the tape or braid laces, which are very easy to work, and rapid of execution, especially now that the purlings for the edge may be bought ready made. Many ladies do not know why old lace is so much valued and generally so much more beautiful than new. The fact is that the valuable old lace is woven in "lost" patterns. This was occasioned by the French Revolu- tion. Before that time whole villages supported themselves by lace making, and the patterns were handed down as heirlooms from one generation to another. The most celebrated were bound by an oath to work for certain dealers only. After the Reign of Terror had subsided the dealers and workers were far apart, some dead, some escaped to other lands. Those who remained being bound by oath would not break it. Some, however, taught their children and grandchildren, consequently some old patterns were preserved. Many find it difficult to distinguish the real from imitation laces, and truly some of the latter are so beautiful that one must be au fait in the mysteries of lace-making to find the difference. The way to distinguish real lace is the perfection of the purl edge or series of tiny loops, each made round a pin ; the foot ought to consist of three parallel threads, with just an open pinhole beyond, but which can- not be drawn out like the machine made laces. Honiton is almost impossible to make a mistake in, which is a semblance of weaving, each thread crossing the other as in darning. The mmmwwmwwwM^ww^^\\/mWM Fig. 2. pattern in Brussels, Bedfordshire, Mechlin, Limerick and many others is outlined with a thicker thread. Maltese, whether made in Malta or on an English pillow, consists principally of whole stitch. Torchon is cleverly imitated, but is really a pillow lace, and which you cannot draw up into a IriU when hand-made. Valenciennes is another lace very difficult to distinguish, therefore the only thing to do as a means of detecting real from imitation is to endeavour to pull a thread at the foot of the lace, and notice the purl edge. The Irish Carrickmacross lace is very beautiful, the starting point of which was the fact of some Italian lace belonging to a lady being imitated by her servant in 1820. Evidently the Marchioness of Londonderry fears this industry will be forgotten, as a short time ago she offered prizes for the best design in this lace, and which is being made at the Bath and Shirley Lace School, Carrickmacross. Fig. I is done with a raised braid with tiny hoops of cotton each side, and is very cheap, yet exceedingly strong, there- fore of great use for trimming children's pinafores, and underlinen for our own wear. With braid, especially the Honiton, very pretty lace may be quickly made. The lace is sewn on in the pattern called "honey-comb," of which we give an example in- Fig. 2, and a twisted bar with a dot formed bypassing the cotton, or rather Mecklenburg thiead, in and out of the bars. The advantage of this pattern is, it can be made in any width required, 'or shaped for the front of a dress. By y8 tinting it coffee colour with the new preparation sold for the purpose, and putting a dark colour sateen under, a very pretty and effective plastron would be the result. In place of the dot, a gold bead would be effective, and worn over black would present a novel and pretty appearance. Another advantage beyond the quickness and ease by which it may be worked is it can be taken up at any time. This pattern forms a handsome border for a handkerchief, and would make up charmingly for a breakfast cap or elderly lady. Fig. I. ART NEEDLEWORK. Of late there has been quite a mania for painting, and those who have a taste for that style of work we advise to persevere, for it is quickly done. Oil paints are the best to use, and when done over with a white varnish sold for the purpose at all artists' colour shops, the effect is exceedingly good. The work can be washed over when soiled without injuring the painting or material in the least. The pattern must be traced out in chalk, and done over with Chinese white to prevent the outline rubbing off. Either of the illustrations would answer for a variety of purposes. For instance. Fig. 2, which represents a branch of almond blossom, would be charming for an antimacassar painted on dark peacock-blue or black satin, and edged all round with coffee-coloured lace. Three quarters of satin makes two antimacassars, and two and a half yards of lace are re- quired. It is best to fasten the satin to drawing board firmly at each corner. If there is any difficulty in painting the bird, a pretty one in scrap form may be used with good effect. A pair of anlis, one with pink may and the other white, would make a handsome and novel present. Fig. i, a cluster of dog-roses, would be suitable for a screen-panel. Many are the fabrics on which the brush can be used, besides^ satin, velvet, tapestry, canvas, American cloth THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Fig. Lincrusta, &c., are all employed. For a present for a gentleman, a black satin letter-case is most useful. The pattern is ready traced out for working in silks, but painting would be newer. It is much more easy to work with shaded silks than skeins of different shades ; green for the leaves being particularly useful, for it is most difficult to correctly shade the flowers, &c., satisfactorily without usmg a great deal of silks, or at alleventshaving to buy a number of shades, and consequently there is more wasted than used. Either of our illustrations may be copied in crewels or silks, and if shaded skeins are used, there will be no trouble. Long stitches of yellow silk with a French knot at the end form the centre. This knot is formed by twisting the silk over the needle as you would over a crochet hook, and passing the needle through the material close to where the silk was drawn through before commencing the knot. A little practice is required to do it properly, or it will become an ordinary knot, and you will have to break off. When done on perforated leather or cloth, the silk is drawn through the hole through which it was brought forward. Green American cloth makes a useful letter-case or book cover, &c., with the design pricked and worked with three or four shades of red, binding it with narrow green ribbon, and sewing a cord of cardinal all round, finishes it off neater than merely binding it only. Bell-pulls seem likely to come into use again, and they certainly are a great finish. Plush is sold in strips sufficiently long and traced for working in various shades of silks or crewels. Several patterns have been given in our articles " Art Needlework " in the Work-Basket, which would answer for the purpose. A running pattern of leaves on peacock-blue or cardinal plush, velvet or sateen— serge would be effective and not so expensive— would be very pretty. But there are many cheap ribbons sold now, especially surah, which is only 4id. per yard, which would be less expensive. The bell-pulls must be lined with glazed lining, and finished off either with a bow or rosette of cord and a tassel. UMBRELLA CASE. Those who travel much may be glad to know of a novel case for holding umbrellas and sunshades, which is less bulky than the leather one usually sold for holding such things. It consists of a simple straight piece of brown hoUand, measuring 28 inches one way and 20 inches the other. It is sewn together down the sides lengthwise, thus making a cylindrical-shaped case. At the top and bottom is made a hem about an inch wide into which a string is run. The umbrellas and sunshades are slipped into this hollow bag, and the string at the bottom is twisted round them and tied very tightly just about where the stick and the silk part of the um- brellas join. It is tied again very tightly at the top, just below the handles. If these strings are tied very tightly, the umbrella which has the biggest and firmest handle may do duty as a handle by which to carry the whole case, but it will be easily understood that the strings must be twisted round once or twice and tied very firmly or it will fall out altogether. A double strap and a handle may be made of a band of holland if considered necessary and sewn round the case in the middle as shown in the picture. Any ornamentation in the way of embroidery or braiding may be added to the case if liked, but as a rule the neater and plainer these things are the better. Orey holland, relieved by a little red, is a good material to use if the lighter colour is apt to become soiled, while, except for very light coloured or white parasols, nothing looks more serviceable than black linen, and, indeed, it will stand rough treat- ment better than any other material. Beadwork. DESIGN FOR PLASTRON. Our illustration is intended to be worked wiih either silk cord or chenille, harmonising or contrasting with the dress it is intended to be worn with. A black satin ground, with the patterns carried out in black and gold cord or chenille, and gold and jet beads arranged alternately, would be very effective, or dark brown cord or chenille on a lighter shade of satin would be pretty. The smaller representation is exceedingly elegant worked on ecru coloured canvas, with two shades of fawn silks for the leaves, which is simply done in long stitch, commencing from the centre; the round rings are of fawn colour chenille, with two pendants hanging from the middle of each, one of cardinal and the other pink. These pendants are of silk wound over a little bead made of wood, and are sold by the dozen. If black is chosen the centres could be of jet, also the vein of the leaves i coloured, the cord should match the darker shade in the leaves. Worked with fawn colour it would form a charming and novel trimming for either a pale blue orpink eveningdress,and wouldalsobe effective with brown. THE FANCV WORK-BASKET. Patchwork. Although in these days of fine art needlework, patchwork, strictly speaking, is not a fashionable style of work, yet it is so varied, so pretty and bright, and useful for so many purposes, that it is sure to retain its popularity amongst a certain class of workers. Some of the oldest patterns are quite as effective as the newer ones, therefore it is felt that no apology is needed in offering them to our readers. Patchwork, as its name implies, is made up of innumer- able small pieces of material, and, speaking generally, there cannot be too great a variety in their colours, patterns, and shapes. It is a boast among many workers that they have never bought any scraps for even the largest pieces of work, but it is not everybody who cares to levy such tolls on their friends as this implies. There are many large shops that supply scraps and snippings of all kinds of material at a certain price per pound, but at the best establish- ments orders for these have been received long before they can be attended to, and intending purchasers have to take their turn and wait for it. It is better to go to a smaller shop if there is any reason for progressing quickly with the work. Scraps of print may be bought for almost a nominal price at small shops in country towns, and it is wonderful what a number and variety of scraps are included in a bundle of " patch " sold for the modest sum of one halfpenny. School children frequently begin to learn plain sewing on such pieces, which are all cut of exactly the same size and shape, that is, about three inches square, the raw edges are turned in, and the scraps sewn together with a due attention to colour. When finished these pieces of patchwork can be lined, first with flannel and then with coloured print or cretonne, and form very good coverlets for charitable purposes, but the work during its progress must be indescribably tedious and stiff for the little fingers that are set to work at it for a certain time daily. More elaborate patterns of patchwork require to be carried out in various geometric designs, and more attention paid to the arrangement of colours and materials. The exact shape of the pieces required must be cut out in tin, and this pattern kept always at hand to serve as a model to cut out the various pieces by. Some people use a pattern cut out in thick mill- board instead of tin ; this answers very well at first, but after it has been some time in use the edges become worn, the patches are not cut so exactly, and consequently do not fit in so truly. The Chess-board pattern (Fig. i) is one of the simplest, as it consists solely of an arrange- ment of squares of various colours, as its name implies. Get a tinsmith to cut out a piece of tin exactly square, and measuring from an inch and a half to four or even six inches each way, according to the size of the available scraps of mate- rial and the purpose for which it is to be used when finished. If the large size is chosen, some of the squares should be orna- mented with embroidery before being made up. Cut out a Fig. I. number of squares exactly the size of the tin one in firm brown paper or stout letter paper, and cut the patches the same shape but quite half an inch wider all round, to allow of their being turned easily over the paper. Cover each piece of paper with the material and tack it into place. If a knot is made at the end of the cotton let it come on the right side, but it is by no means necessary to make a knot at all. Be careful not to turn over any of the paper with the material. When a good number of squares are thus covered sew them together as shown in the sketch, alternately placing a light and a dark square. In sewing the squares together sew only the material, do not take the stitches through the paper as well. When the work is finished, and before making it up, take out the tacking threads and remove the pieces of paper, lay the work wrong side uppermost on an ironing board, place a damp cloth over it, and iron carefully with a mode- rately hot iron, taking care that it is not hot enough to injure the colours of the work ; then proceed to line it. This chess-board pattern is one that lends itself well to quilting. A sheet of wadding is laid under it, and all the seams followed with a line of machine stitching. Afterwards line it with a suitable material, and finish off the edges with a ball fringe, or cord and tassels, according to the purpose to which it is to be turned. These general directions apply to any pattern, and so will not be repeated.' Fig. 2 shows a variation of the chess-board pattern, in which triangles are mixed in with the squares. Minute directions for sewing 100 the pieces need not be given, as the diagram shows this plainly enough. Fig. 3 repre- sents the so-called Mosaic patchwork, of which there are almost endless varieties, and many of which can be copied by a clever worker from pat- terns of floor cloths, tiles, &c. The design in Fig. 3 consists solely of squares and triangles. The four squares at the corners of each pattern should be of the same, silk or satin, the centre of a very light shade of colour indeed, even of white, and the eight triangles surrounding it of Fig. 2. black. From triangles to diamonds is an easy transition, and of dia- monds or lozenge-shaped pieces an infinite variety of patterns may be made. First and foremost of these maybe mentioned the Box patlern, which, although one of the oldest, is at the same time one of the most popular of all designs. Three diamond shaped pieces are required for each pattern, and should either consist of three shades of the same colour or of two shades and Fig. 3. black. These are sewn together as shown in the woodcut (Fig. 4), one diamond covered with the lightest of all three shades at the top, turned sideways, the dark sliade at the left side below the top diamond and the me- dium shade at the right side. When they are all joined together the effect is that of a number of cubes ar- ranged in rows. This pattern may often be found in articles made of the wooden Mosai" known as Tunbridj ware. The diamont should measure tv. inches and a half length in the middle and an inch and a half wide. Fig. 5 shows anothervariety of the Fig. 4. last-named pattern,known as the Cube. It is simply an elongated box, and may be made up either with the cubes upright or turned side- ways, according to fancy. Another design that is carried out with Fig. 5. diamonds is the Star pattern (Fig. 6), and this to look well should, properly speaking, be carried out in three colours only, the diamonds forming the star being either of a very bright colour or I'HE FANCY WORK-BASKET, Fig. 6. of black, the background being either black or coloured, according to whichever is used for the star, and the single diamonds marked t in the design of a good contrasting colour. Next to diamonds Fig. 7. hexagons are most useful, and capable of being joined in more than qne w ay, and much varied in the arrangement of the colours. In Fig. 7, the hexagon in the middle should be dark or black in colour, with a ring round it of a con- trasting colour, and an outside ring of a medium shade of colours. Other designs easy to copy are shown in Figs. S and 9. Crazy patchwork and Log- house or Canadian quilting have already been de- _ scribed in these pages, so Fig. 8. there is no need to repeat them. Harlequin patchwork may be made of hexagons, and is similar to Crazy patchwork, but differs from it inasmuch as that all the pieces are of one shape, covered with the material, and sewn together haphazard, with little or no regard to colours. The dull coloured pieces are afterwards enlivened by a multitude of fancy stitches of all colours and styles worked on them, according to the fancy of the worker. Gold thread, china ribbon, arrasene, and almost any material may be used here, and the work afifords an excellent field for using up an accumulation of scraps and Fig. g. odds and ends left from other pieces of work. There is a fashio" in patch work'as in almost everything else, and just now the Jewe' B D Fig. 10. design (Fig. 10) is the popular one. The shape of the pieces is shown in Figs. A, B, C, and D, and the way of piecing them together can easih' bs copied from the woodcut. Care must be taken that the oblong pieces are all of the same colour, a dull gold is the most satisfactory', and carries out the idea of jewels in a setting better than any other colour. The small squares may be of any bright tint of silk, and as much varied as possible. The largest pieces should be covered with two shades of the same colour. Two other ways of managing this Jewel patchwork are given in Figs. II and 12. Cloth patchwork is easy and quick to do, as no papers are required. The scraps of cloth are simply cut out to the size and shape chosen, the edges laid together so as to overlap a trifle, and then herring-boned down with crewel silk of different colours. Any fancy stitch may be used instead of 1 herring-bone, coral, feather, tete-de-boeuf, S;c. Sometimes, if space permits, each piece of cloth is embroidered with a little fanciful design before it is sewn to its fellow. If satin patchwork is made in this way, it is by no means unusual for the worker to distribute the pieces amongst her friends, re- questing each to embroider a pattern on the satin her own taste. In this way a couvrepied forms a O according to valuable memento of friends and acquamtances. Picture patchwork (Fig. 13) is a novelty, and can be carried out in the manner just des- cribed. Each large square is covered with satin, which is embroidered with a fanciful design first. These squares should be as varied as possible. The oblongs and small squares are covered with black, and the frames of the pictures with light brown satin with a small circle worked in black silk at each corner where the FiG. 11. pieces cross. Details of many more elaborate designs for patch- work than any of these might yet be given, were it not for fear of trespassing too much on space and time. The description of one very handsome cjuilt (Fig. 14) shall end this paper. To Now Ready, pnce 2ii. WASHING AND LAUNDRY CHECK-BOOK.* By Mrs. LEACH.— Confining How to Wash, Starch, and Iron, with -i-aluable Redpes f-ji Cleaning, Dyeing. &.C., and printed Laiindr>' Checks for six months. Of ail Newsvendors. Price 2d , or post free, three stamps, from R. S. Caktwright, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.C 101 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. exactly, suitable Thi for make it, begin by sketching out the design on a large square sheet of stout white paper the size that the quilt is to be, then cut out all the portions of the design, and use the pieces of paper as patterns for the pieces of satin and velvet, which must be cut half an inch larger all round. Every piece of material must be cut with a duplicate piece to correspond s second piece may be of sateen or of any material the lining. Lay the two pieces exactly together, '■"■•■••"- I |Yj-l-|r; ii|ir|ii'li '■'■'"■:■ 1 f J|||J.|.||„,|.I,I, J.Jl. ■l..,lll.H.,llllll,lill)ll) illHHHlitlHHBiil lijiis ■ llllllililllMllH HlMIIIHIiH Mm M J M & 4 'i 1 t m Fig. 12. Fig. 13. turning in about half an inch of the edge all round, sew the two pieces together, leaving a small piece unsewn on one side. In sewing these pieces to other double pieces, care must be taken still to leave this little piece open. Finally, when the whole quilt is finished, a few feathers or wadding must be tucked into each opening so as to make it thick and plump like the divisions of an eider-down quilt. Then sew up the spaces left unsewn. Be careful that all the pieces are equally stuffed, and that the corners are well filled out, feathers are better than wadding, but are not always so easy to obtain. A half-yard square of satin is needed for the middle of the quilt, and should be of some light shade of colour; nothing is better than cream colour. It should have a handsome design worked upon it, and this will offer a suggestion for turning to account any rich piece of antique embroidery that the maker of the quilt may be fortunate enough to possess. Outside this is a design of squares and triangles, which are divided again into triangles and smaller triangles by lines of chain stitch worked in silks of a contrasting colour. Gold and brown are good colours to use here, gold lines of silk being used on the brown, and brown on the gold. Squares of gold coloured salin form the corners, with a design worked on them in shades of red silk. Beyond this is a border formed of four bright red lozenge-shaped pieces, each set in the middle of four triangles of a dull slate grey, with an oblong piece of dark rich blue satin beyond. This has the edges worked all round with herring-bone or double feather stitch. Four large triangles of black velvet form the corners, and four smaller triangles • of a darker shade of red are placed between them: Then comes a border of long narrow pieces, alternate rose-colour and cream coloured satin, with four squares of the cream satin worked with blue in the corners. A border of black velvet one third the width of the last one finishes the quilt. 102 Fig. 14. EJVIBROIDERED SATIN ANTIMACASSAR. We give this month a design for an antimacassar which is carried out in various colours, chosen with a due regard to artistic taste, and forms a most elegant piece of work both in design and colouring:. The centre is of navy-blue satin, with a border of crimson salin. The pattern is traced on red satin, the blue centre being entirely without ornament. The si.x-petalled flowers shown in the design are worked in crewel stitch with white fHoselle or crewel silk, the centre of them being green worked in satin stitch. The leaves THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. springing from these flowers, of which it will be seen there are 2 kinds, are worked, of course quite conventionally, in satin stitch, the centre one with green, and the two side ones with dark navy blue silk to match the blue centre. The three lines shown on each side of the wide design are worked in outline stitch with green, and the waved fish-bone pattern with the same colour in lance stitch. Then come two more straight lines of green. Such straight parts of the design would look well done with fine Japanese tinsel laid on and caught down at intervals of a quarter of an inch with fine gold- coloured silk. This fish-bone pattern would look very effective worked in green silk in true herring-bone stitch, the stitches being placed so close together that they form a sort of plait which nearly hides the foundation. The vandyke edges form an exceedingly bold and telling part of the embroidery, the main colour used for them being old gold. The most eftective way of managing them is to trace a vandyke pattern on a narrow strip of gold-coloured satin, and lay it down on the original foundation, tacking it into place. Button-hole with red silk round the vandyke edges, after- wards cutting away the satin beyond them ; the plain straight edge of the yellow satin may be simply turned in and concealed by a line of tinsel sewn down along the join. The wavy line and the circular patterns that are seen between it, and the vandyke edge are worked with the same deep red silk that was used for the edge of the points. French knots may be used for these round "eyes" if it is thought that they would look more effective a little raised. Of course, if preferred, these pointed edges may be made simply of the red satin, button-holed round and cut out, or may be traced out with old-gold or bright yellow silk worked in point-lane^. The design of this border would lend itself admirably to a strip without corners to be used with an alternate stripe of navy-blue satin, while enlarged to about double its present size, or even more, it would make a most elegant finish to a plush portifere or pair of window-curtains. KNICK KNACKS. Many people who cannot do much in crochet or knitting may like to know of a few little things which do not cost much but the labour of their fingers, such as pincushions for the . pocket, toilet and bas- ket. Little pieces of silk, satin, plush, velvet, or cretonne even, can be used up in making these little cushions in the shape of jockey caps, slippers, hearts, &c. You must first cut out the shape in cardboard, then cover neatly with any scraps you may have. The mattress cushion is very nice, which is made with two pieces of silk or satin, about 4 inches long, and 2* wide, cut a narrow strip and sew all round, having it between the two pieces, so as to form the sides of mattress ; with a needle and strong silk, draw or stab it right through to the wrong side and tie firmly. Now we are on the subject of cushions, we will give directions for a very simple one in crochet. Cut 2 rounds of cardboard about 2 or 3 inches across, use a coarse steel hook, or a very fine bone one, and any two colours of wool you may have by you, or even silk; make 2 chain, and unite, work in double cro- chet round and round in 2 rows of one colour, 2 of another, increase to make it lie flat, by working 2 stitches into i stitch as often as necessary, any arrangements of colour you like can be used. Work 3 pieces large enough to cover the cardboard, sew, or, rather, tack them to each piece, and sew both edges together very neatly, and ornament it by a few feather or cross stitches in some bright or contrasting silk ; stick some pins round the edge. These are useful for pocket, table or work-basket. For gentlemen they should be made smaller, not larger than an inch across, just for waistcoat pocket. Cats' Collaes. Cut a piece of American cloth or bright leather, red or blue is the best, about 2 inches wide, and long enough to go round the cat's neck, about 7 or 8 inches for an ordinary sized cat, 10 for a large one; join up and turn in a piece each side, sew both edges together very firmly, put 3 toy bells a little way apart. They slip over pussy's head nicely, and last a long time. Some people think the bells prevent their catching mice, but such is not the case, as we can prove by e.^perience. Seidlitz Powder Boxes Can be converted into very pretty fancy boxes for holding sweets, or a cake of scented soap, hair pins, safety pins, &c., by merely pastiftg'3-jr.etty scrap over the top of lid, and some smaller ones round the sides, but some of them are covered with satin paper, having gold stars on, these would only require the scrap on top. A girl or boy's head, or some animal looks best, but old Christmas cards can be thus brought into use, and look exceedingly well, es- pecially those with dogs and cats, which would much please the little ones, when filled with sweets. Line them with either pink, blue or white tissue paper inside. Lavender Bags Are made of any pieces of silk, muslin, or cretonne. Cut them any size you may like, stitch round, leaving room for the lavender flowers, sew a piece of lace full all round, then fill and sew up. These sachets smell so sweet, and are much liked by many people for putting between linen in drawers and boxes. Knitting. ANTIMACASSAR IN COLOURED COTTON. Our model was knitted in crimson and nankeen, bat .iny two colours can be used that blend well together, or contrast with the furniture of the drawing-room. Materials required : 4 balls of each of the colours selected of Messrs. Bagley and Wright's crochet cotton, in balls No. 20, and 3 rather long knitting needles, either bone or white vulcanite, No. 9, gauged by the standard wire gauge. With the crimson cotton, using 4 balls of it together, so as to have 4 ply of the cotton, cast on 75 stitches, istrow — knit plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — join on the nankeen colour cotton, using it single, leaving the 4 threads of the crimson cotton, without breaking them off, knit the row plain. 5 th row — purl. 6th row— knit i stitch plain, ** knit 2 together 4 times. * make a stitch by putting the cotton round the needle, knit i plain, repeat from * 7 times more, knit 2 together, taking the back part of the stitches, 4 times, repeat from ** twice more, end the row with I plain stitch. 7th row — purl. 8th row — same as 6th row. 9th row — purl. loth row — leave the nankeen cotton, .and take the 4 threads of crimson left at the end of the 3rd row, and with them knit the row plain, nth row — plain. 12th row — purl. I3tli row — plain. Repeat from 4th row 6 times more. Fasten off the crimson cotton, and with the nankeen, using it single as before, knit same as 4th and 5th rows until there are 32 rows knitted, leave the piece knitted, and knit another piece exactly the same for the 2nd half of the antimacassar, place the 2 pieces together, putting the right sides inside, and cast oft thus : * knit I stitch over the 2nd, continue as last 2 stitches till all are cast off. Fasten off the thread, 103 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. For the Lace to Trim the Macassar. With the same needles and the same nankeen cotton, using it single, cast on i6 stitches, ist row — shp the 1st stitch, knit 2 plain, make i, by putting the cotton round the needle, knit 2 together, 2 plain, make 2 by putting cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 together, 7 plain. 2nd row — knit g plain, i purl, 4 plain, make I stitch, knit 2 together, I plain. 3rd row — slip 1st stitch, 2 plain, make i stitch, knit 2 together, 12 plain. 4th row — 14 plain, make I stitch, knit 2 together, i plain. 5th row — slip ist stitch, 2 plain, make i stitch, knit 2 together, 2 plain, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, 6 plain. 6th row^S plain, I purl, 2 plain, I purl, 4 plain, make i stitch, knit 2 together, I plain. 7th row — slip ist stitch, 2 plain, make i stitch, knit 2 together, 14 plain. 8th row — 16 plain, make i stitch, knit 2 to- gether, I plain. 9th row — slip the ist stitch, 2 plain, make i stitch, knit 2 together, 2 plain, * make 2 stitches, knit 2 together, repeat from * twice more, 6 plain. loth row — 8 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 2 plain, i purl, 4 plain, make I stitch, knit 2 together, I plain, loth row — slip ist stitch, 2 plain, make i stitch, knit 2 together, 17 plain. 1 2th row — cast off 6 stitches, 13 plain, counting the stitch on the needle, make i stitch, knit 2 together, i plain, there should be 16 stitches on the needle. Repeat from ist row till there is sufficient to go round the antimacassar, putting it round the corners full enough to lie flat. For the Cord. With 4 threads of the crimson cotton, cast on 100 stitches, ist row — knit plain. 2nd row — purl. Repeat these 2 rows till 10 rows are knitted, cast off, when it will form a round cord. For the tassels — wind round a card enough of the crimson cotton to make a full handsome tassel, tie it very firmly and cut the loops. For the cap and top of the tassels — cast on again with 4 threads of the crimson cotton 12 stitches, and knit in the same way as the cord for 8 rows ; cast off, and with a sewing needle draw up the loops, and sew the cap on the top of the tassel, after sewing the tassel to the end of the cord. 2 tassels are required. Now double the cord and pass the tassels through, placing the ma- cassar in the loop thus formed, so that the cord passes over the part where the 2 pieces first knitted were joined together. LADY'S COMBINATIONS. This useful and comfortable garment is knitted on the simplest plan possible. Anyone, even without much experience, will find the shaping quite easy to accomplish. With a view to increasing the simplicity of the pattern it is worked in garter stitch and a little plain ribbing. Either white, grey, fawn, or scarlet are very suitable colours for the purpose. The wool used is Beehive fingering, 12 ozs. are required. Four knitting needles are used — 2 bone needles No. 8, and 2 needles No. 10, Walker's guage. The combina- tions are fastened down the front and at the back with linen buttons; lo are required of medium size. The neck is finished with a string 2j yards long. Either narrow ribbon or a woollen string may be used, according to the fancy of the worker. Cast on 69 stitches with the fine needles, No. 10. ist row — knit 3, purl 3, alternately. Rib 39 more rows in the same way. 41st row — with coarse needles No, 8, knit 3, make i by lifting a loop from the row below and knitting it as a stitch, knit till 3 remain, make i, knit 3. Knit 3 plain rows ; repeat from 41st row 25 times more. There will now be 104 rows worked with the coarse needles, there should be 119 stitches on the needles. io6th row — same as 41st row, having 113 stitches between the increased stitches. 107th row — plain. Repeat lo6th and 107th rows II times more, which will make 145 stitches on the needles. 130th, 131st, and 132nd rows — plain. 133rd row — knit 3, decrease, plain to end. Repeat the last four rows 5 times more. Decreased edge is in the front of the drawers. Knit 34 rows in plain garter stitch without increasing or decreasing. l88th row — knit 3, throw the wool over the needle, decrease, knit till 5 stitches remain, throw the wool over the needle, decrease, knit 3. Knit 17 plain rows. 206th row — same as i88th row. Knit 16 plain rows. 223rd row (beginning at the back of the drawers)— knit 70, turn back. 224th row — knit 70. 225th row — knit 65, turn back. 226th row — knit 65. 227th row — knit 60, turn back. 228th row — knit 60. 229th row, knit 55, turn back. 230th row — knit 55. Continue decreasing five stitches every alternate row until all the stitches are on one needle. Then cast off 13. Decrease, knit i, alternately all across the drawers. This row ends in the front of the drawers, now commence the front half of the bodice. 1st row — knit 3, throw the wool over the needle, decrease, knit 37 stitches, turn back. Put the remaining stitches on another needle until they are required. Knit 17 rows in plain garter stitch on these 42 stitches. 19th row — same as ist row. Knit 7 plain rows. 27th row — knit 20, make I, knit 2, make I, knit 104 20. 28th row — plain. 29th row — knit 20, make i, knit 4, make I, knit 20. 30th row — plain. 31st row— knit 20, make i, knit 6, make I, knit 20. 32nd row — plain. 33rd row — knit 20, make i, knit 8, make i, knit 20. 34th row — plain. 35th row — knit 20, make i, knit 10, make i, knit 20. 36th row— plain. 37th row— knit 3, throw the wool over the needle, decrease, knit 15, make i, knit 12, make I, knit 20. 38th row — plain. 39th row — knit 20, make i, knit 14, make i, knit 20. 40th row — plain. 41st row — knit 20, make 1, knit 16, make r, knit 20. 42nd row — plain. 43rd row — knit 20, make l, knit 18, make I, knit 20. 44th row — plain. 45th row — knit 20, make i, knit 20, make i, knit 20. 46th row— plain. 47th row — knit 20, make i, knit 22, make i, knit 20. 48th row — plain. Knit 16 more plain rows. 65th row — knit 3, throw the wool over the needle, decrease, plain to end. 66th row — knit 20, decrease, knit 20, decrease, knit 20. 67th row — plain. 68th row — knit 20, decrease, knit 18, decrease, knit 20. 69th row — plain. 70th row — knit 20, decrease, knit 16, decrease, knit 20. 71st row — plain. 72nd row— knit 20, decrease, knit 14, decrease, knit 20. 73rd row — plain. 74th row — knit 20, decrease, knit 12, decrease, knit 20. 7Sth row — plain. 76th row — knit 20, decrease, knit 10, decrease, knit, 20. 77th row— plain. 78th row — knit 20, decrease, knit 8, decrease, knit 20. 79th row — plain. 80th row — ^knit 20, decrease,, knit 6, decrease, knit 20. 8 1st row — plain. 82nd row — knit 20, decrease, knit 4, decrease, knit 20. 83rd row — knit 3, throw wool over needle, decrease, plain to end. 84th row — knit 20, decrease, knit 2, decrease, knit 20. Knit 6 more plain rows. Cast off. Make the second leg and half front of vest by repeating from the commence- ment of directions. All the button-holes are to be omitted. No other alteration is to be made. For Back. Put all the stitches which were left, on to one needle; knit 90 rows backwards and forwards in plain garter stitch. There should be 84 stitches across the back. 91st row — knit 9, cast off until 9 remain, knit 9 more rows on these 9 stitches for the shoulder strap. Cast off. Knit 9 rows for second shoulder strap. Cast off For Sleeve. Cast on 80 stitches, ist row — knit 3, decrease, plain to end. Knit 29 more rows in the same way. Knit 6 plain rows. 37th row — use fine needles No. 10, knit 2, purl 2, alternately for 12 rows. Cast off. Knit a second sleeve the same. Sew up the legs from the bottom to where the last increase is made (in the 1 29th row). Join the shoulder straps to the front pieces. Sew the thirteen cast off stitches in the back flatly and neatly in their place. Sew up the side seams of the vest for 40 rows from the waist. Close the seams of the sleeves and sew them in, placing the seam exactly above the side seam of vest. Sew on buttons to correspond to all the button-holes. Trim round the neck of the vest with the following knitted edging, worked with the coarse needles. No, 8. Cast on 8 stitches, ist row — knit 2,* make i, by throwing thread over the needle, narrow, by knitting 2 together. Repeat from * twice more. 2nd row — * knit i, knit I and purl i into made stitch, repeat from* once more, knit i, make i, narrow, knit l. 3rd row — knit 2, make i, narrow, plain to end. 4th row — knit 7, make l, narrow, knit i. 5th row — same as 3rd row. 6th row — cast off 2, knit 4, make i, narrow, knit 1. This completes one pattern. Repeat from first row until 28 patterns are worked. Cast off. Sew the edging round the neck. Pass the string in and out of the lower row of holes. LADY'S BEDROOM OR INVALID SLIPPERS, In Looped Knitting, with Double Soles. Materials required : — 4 knitting needles. No. 12, either steel or bone pointed at both ends, 2 skeins of Baldwin's black 4-ply finger- ing wool and 2 skeins of scarlet, same make, 3 yards of scarlet worsted braid, J or J of an inch wide, and 2 pairs of cork soles, exactly the same size. The soles should be chosen a size larger than the ordinary shoe, to allow for the loops, which go to the in- side of the slipper. The directions given make an ordinary sized slipper, suitable for soles, either number 5 or 6. The 1st stitch of every row should always be slipped. 2 needles only are required for the beginning of the work, cast on rather tightly with the scarlet wool 13 stitches, knit i plain row, turn. 2nd row — slip the ist stitch, increase a stitch, (which is done thus put the right hand needle into the next stitch, throw the wool oyer the ris'it-neecUe' THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. and take it through the stitch as in ordinary knitting, but do not take the stitch off the needle, now insert the right needle into back part of the same stitch, throw the wool over the right needle, and take it through the stitch, taking it off the left needle. This makes 2 stitches out of one. When directed to increase at the beginning of a row, do so in the and stitch at the end of a row, increase in the last stitch but one, knit 9 stitches plain, increase a stitch, knit i plain stitch, turn. 3rd row — slip ist stitch, increase a stitch, knit II plain stitches, increase a stitch, knit i plain stitch, care must be taken when knitting the made stitch of the previous row to knit it separately, so as to form a new and distinct stitch. 4th row — slip 1st stitch, increase, knit 13 plain stitches, increase, knit I plain stitch. 5th row — There should now be 19 stitches on the needle, slip the 1st stitch, knit i plain stitch, now for the loops, * take the black wool (without breaking off the scarlet), wind it 3 times round the forefinger of the left hand, beginning to wind from under the finger, put the needle into next stitch on the left hand needle as if going to knit it (but do not knit it), and put the needle also through the black loops on the forefinger, throw the scarlet wool over the right needle, so that it falls with the black wool, now draw this scarlet wool and the black loops together through the stitch, taking it off the left needle, knit the next stitch plain with the red wool ; repeat from * 7 times more, knit I plam stitch, cut offtlie black wool, leav- ing it the length of the loops. This is called a looped row. 6th row — shp the ist stitch, * knit I plain stitch, knit the scarlet wool that was drawn through the stitch and the black as one stitch ; repeat from * to end of needle. There should still be 19 stitches on the needle ; repeat the last 2 rows once more. 9th and loth rows — plain, increasing a stitch at end of each row. nth and 12th rows — plain, increasing a stitch at end of each row. There will now be 23 stitches across. 13th row — knit a looped row. 14th row — plain. 15th- row — looped. l6th row — plain. 17th and 18th rows — plain, increasing a stitch at end of each row. Repeat from beginning of the nth row 5 times more. There should now be 45 stitches across. Now for sides, continue with the scarlet wool, ist row — slip the ist stitch, knit 15 plain stitches, purl i stitch, take a third needle, leaving the needle with the 28 remaining stitches, turn. 2nd row — slip the ist stitch, knit the remaining 16 stitches plain. 3rd row — slip the ist stitch, knit i plaia stitch, * make a looped stitch with black wool as before, knit 1 plain stitch ; repeat from * 6 times more, purl the i stitch remaining. 4th row — slip the ist stitch, knit the 16 remaining stitches plain. 5th row — same as the 3rd row. Take care always to purl the stitch as directed at the upper edge, or it will be troublesome when afterwards raising the stitches. 6th row — same as 2nd row. 7th row — same as ist row, 8th row — same as 2nd row. Repeat from beginning of the ist side row 13 times more. Cast off these 17 stitches together with 17 of the stitches on the needle that was left when the side was com- menced. They should be cast off on the wrong side of the work, leave the 1 1 centre stitches still on the needle. Now raise, on 2 of the needles, all the loops round the top of the sides. There will be 68 stitches altogether, counting the 1 1 on the needle at the centre of foot. Knit I plain round with the scarlet wool, * throw the wool forward before the needle, knit 2 stitches together ; repeat from * all round. This is the string case row, join the black wool, knit 12 plain rounds, cast off very loosely. For inside sole, which is also worked in looped knitting, cast on with scarlet wool, 9 stitches, knit I plain row, knit 4 plain rows, increasing a stitch at end of each of these 4 rows. Now take the black wool, and work a looped row in the same way as before. 7th row — knit plain. 8th row — looped. 9th row — plain. loth, iiih, 12th and 13th rows — plain, increasing a stitch at end of each. 14th row — looped. 15th row — plain. i6th row — looped. 17th row — plain. 1 8th, 19th, 20th and 21st rows — plain. 22nd rov/ — looped. 23rd row — plain. 24th row — looped. 2Sth row — plain. 26th and 27th rows — plain, increasing a stitch at end of each. 28th and 29th rows — plain. 30th row — looped. 31st row— plain. 32nd row — looped. 33rd row — plain. 34th and 3Sth rows— plain, increasing a stitch at end of each. 36th and 37th rows — plain. 38th row — looped. 39th row — plain. 40th row — looped. 41st row — plain. 42nd, 43rd, 44th and 45th rows— plain. 46th row— looped. 47th row — plain. 48th row— looped. 49th row — plain. 50th, 51st, 52nd and 53rd rows — plain, narrowing Cwhich is done by knitting 2 stitches together), i stitch at end of each of these 4 rows. 54th row— looped. 5Sth row — plain. 56th row — looped. 57th row— plain. 58th and 59th rows— plain, narrowing I stitch at end of each. 60th and 6ist rows — plain. 62nd row — looped. 63rd row— plain. 64th row— looped. 65th row— plain. 66th, 67th, 68th and 69th rows— plain. 70th row— looped. 71st row — plain. 72nd row — looped. 73rd row — plain. 74th and 75th rows— plain, narrowing i stitch at end of each. 76th and 77th rows — plain. 78th row — loope4. 79th row — plain. 80th row — looped. O'-f i-nw— plain. 82nd, 83rd, 84th and 85th rows— plain. 86th row —looped. 87th row — plain. 88th row — looped. 89th row —plain. 90th row— plain, increasing i stitch at end. 91st and 92nd rows— plain. 93rd row— plain, increasing i stitch at end. 94th row— looped. 95th row— plain. 96th row— looped. 97th row —plain. 98th and 99th rows -plain, increasing at end of each, looth and loist rows— plain. 102nd row— looped. 103rd row- plain. 104th row- looped. 105th row— plain. io6th, 107th, io8th and 109th rows— plain, narrowing i stitch at end of each, iioth row— looped, i nth row— plain. 112th row— looped. 113th row plain, narrowing at beginning and end of row. Cast off. This finishes the sole. To make up the slippers, bind each of the 4 soles separately with the scarlet braid, running a thread at edge of the braid round the heel and toe to draw the braid into shape. It is neatest when stitched with a sewing machine, but must be done with long stitches, or it will cut the soles. Sew the 2 soles together at the edge of the braid, taking care that the soles are both for the same foot. The slippers are much firmer and wear better when they are made with these double soles. Now sew the knitted slip- per to the upper braid binding of the sole, holding the looped or wrong side of the work next you, and sewing it to the side of the sole that goes next to the foot. Put on the knitted sole, sewing it over the seam where you have just sewed the work to the cork sole, keeping the looped side of the work uppermost, so that it will go next to the foot, and taking care to put the cast off or heel part of the knitted sole to the heel of the cork sole. Turn the slipper right side out. Crochet a chain with the black and scarlet wool together for a length of 25 inches stretched. Run this cord through the string case holes round top of slipper, and add small tassels to ends of the cord. ^^pi^^^,^^^ HOOD FOR INFANT. This is a very easy pattern, and looks verj' pretty. IMaterials required :— li ozs. white Berlin wool, 2 bone needles, No. 9, ij yards pale pink ribbon, 14 inch wide, 2 yards very narrow for running in the holes, i^ swansdown for trimming. Commence with front. Cast on 89 stitches. Knit i plain row, then about 20 rows in following way,— wool over needle, slip i, knit 2 together ; each row is the same for the 20 rows. 22nd row — knit plain. 23rd row— knit 2, put wool over the needle twice, knit 2 together ; con- tinue this to the end of the row. 24th row— plain. 25th row— purl. Now do 1 5 rows of plain knitting, that is, i plain row and i purl alternately, i more row like 23rd, and cast off. For Crown. Cast on 39 stitches. 1st row— plain; then 24 rows as follows, to match the front of hood: wool over needle, slip i, knit 2 together. 26th row — plain 27th row — purl; repeat these 2 last rows 13 times, more. Every alternate row to be purled, so that the plain knitting comes on one side ; 5 more plain rows, but decrease at the beginning and end of each row by taking the first 2 stitches together and the last 2, knit i plain row and cast off. For Curtain. Cast on 86 stitches. Knit 2 plain rows and I purl row, 2 more plain rows, but increase by putting the wool over the needle between every 105 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, 2 Stitches. Now do i3 rows like front of hood, wool over needle, slip I, knit 2 together, 2 plain rows and cast off. For Making up the Hood. Take the front part and turn back the knitting as far as where the 1st row of holes come, sew it neatly down to form a fold round the face, next sew the crown to the front part, putting a little fulness (if there is any) to the top ; now sew the curtain on a little full. Run in the narrow ribbon in the holes in the front of hood in the 2 places, drawing it up a little, and finish off with a little bow at each place, i more row of ribbon through the crown at the top where the fancy knitting ends and the plain begins ; draw it up a little and tie the bow like the others. Run 2 rows where the cur- tain is joined, and just above, as it makes a pretty finish to the back. For strings— put the wider ribbon right through the fold of the front of hood, then the colour will show through, and if the front is at all too long for the child this will enable you to draw it up to the size required. Sew the swansdown neatly all round the front at the back of the fold and carry it round the edge of curtain ; a second piece of swansdown about 4 inches long just at the top of the hood makes it a little higher in front, but this can be done according to taste ; a cap front and soft head-lining complete it This hood can be easily made to fit any size by increasing the number of stitches. CHILD'S PETTICOAT. Five ounces of blue soft Berlin wool, 2 bone needles No. 10. For front — cast on 8[ stitches loosely, or more, if larger, required (9 stitches form the pattern), knit i plain row. ist pattern row — slip 1, purl 7, knit i, * purl 8, knit i ; repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — slip I, purl I, knit 7, * purl 2, knit 7 ; repeat from * to end of row. 3rd row — slip i, purl 5, knit 3, * purl 6, knit 3 ; repeat from * to end of row. 4th row — slip i, purl 3, knit 5, * purl 4, knit 5 ; repeat from * to end of row. 5th row — shp i, purl 3, knit 5, * purl 4, knit 5 ; repeat from * to end of row. 6th row — slip I, purl 5, knit 3, * purl 5, knit 3 ; repeat from * to end of row. 7th row — slip I, purl i, knit 7, * purl 2, knit 7 ; repeat from* to end of row. 8th row — slip I, purl 7, knit i, * purl 8, knit i ; repeat from * to end of row. 9th row — slip i, knit 7, purl i, * knit 8, purl i ; repeat from * to end of row. loth row — shp i, knit 6, purl 2, * knit 7, purl 2 ; repeat from * to end. nth row— shp I, knit 5, purl 3, * knit 6, purl 3 ; repeat from * to end. I2th row — slip I, knit 3, purl 5, * knit 4, purl 5 ; repeat from * to end. 13th row — same as 12th row. 14th row — same as nth row. r5th row — slip i, knit i, purl 7, * knit 2, purl 7 ; repeat rom * to end of row. 1 6th row — slip l,knit 7, purl I,* knit 8, purl i; repeat from * to end of row. Repeat from ist pattern row till you can measure 1 1 inches, which will be about the 84th row. 86th row —slip I, purl 6, knit 2 together, * purl 7, knit 2 together ; repeat 106 from * to end. 87th row — slip i, purl i, knit 6, * purl 2, knit 6 ; repeat from * to end. There should now be 72 stitches on the pin. 88th row— slip i, purl 4, knit 3, * purl 5, knit 3 ; repeat from * to end of the row, and continue in pattern as before, only there will be the i stitch less to knit on each pattern. 93rd row — slip I, knit 4, purl 2 together, * knit 5, purl 2 together ; repeat from * to end of row. 94th row — slip i, knit i, purl 5, * knit 2, purl 5 ; repeat from * to end (63 holes). 95th row — slip I, knit 3, purl 3 ; repeat from * to end of row, and continue in pattern, remembering the i stitch less which has first been decreased. When you come to the row decrease again, thus : looth row — slip I, purl 3, purl 2 together, knit i, * purl 4, purl 2 to- gether, knit I ; repeat from * to end of row. loist row — slip i, purl I, knit 4, * purl 2, knit 4 ; repeat from * to end of row. Continue in pattern till you come to the in throw, iiith row — slip I, purl 3, knit 2 together, * purP4, knit 2 together ; repeat from * to end of row. 112th row — slip i, purl i, knit 3, * purl 2, knit 3 ; repeat from * to end of row (45 stitches will now be on the needle). Continue knitting in pattern for 36 rows, or, should that not be sufficiently long, until it is the proper length for the wearer ; then cast off 5 stitches for the armhole at each end of the needle ; knit in pattern for 8 rows ; then cast on 5 stitches at each end of the needle, and knit 3 rows in pattern, then take 2 together at the beginning and end of each row for lo rows, and cast off all. For back of petticoat — cast on 81 stitches, and knit in exactly the same way till you come to the 3rd decrease ; then knit half the width only and finish the remainder in 3 pieces for right and left side of the back, knitting exactly the same as for front, only before commencing left side, cast on 5 stitches and knit them plain in each row to lie like a hem under the back. For sleeves — cast on 45 stitches, knit i plain row. ist pattern row — purl 8, knit i and repeat to end of row. 2nd row — purl 2, knit 7, and repeat. 3rd row — purl 6, knit 3, and repeat. 4th row — purl 4, knit 5, and repeat. 5th row — purl 4, knit 5, and repeat. 6th row — purl 6, knit 3, and repeat. 7th row — purl 2, knit 7, and repeat. 8th row — purl 8, knit i, and repeat ; cast off 6 stitches at each end of the pin till only 14 remain, then cast off loosely ; this makes a very pretty sleeve. Sew the sleeves up neatly, sew them in, and sew up the sides and shoulders of petticoat. Crochet a narrow edge round sleeves, neck and bottom of the petticoat in 2 treble, a long treble, in every 4th stitch of the knitting. CHILD'S SOCK. Shell Pattern, 3 to s Years. Materials required : — 3 / skeins of Andalusian wool, 4 steel needles No. 15. Cast on 72 stitches on one needle, knit them off on three needles — 26 on two, 20 on the third. Knit 2, purl 2 alternately for 32 rounds. "i Next round — Knit 2, purl I 2 alternately till you reach I the 9th stitch of the needle f" which has only 20 stitches _ on it; knit this9thand loth s. ■" stitch together. The next -^ 1- ., 4? Stitch is called the centre "^ ■" stitch of the back needle. Each round down the leg ^ commencesonit,andit must always be purled. *Knit 3 rounds plain (remember ^JKit^^i^ ^ to purl the first or centre MH-^^'^f stitch). 4th round— back ^ 55bS^jS»<^ needle, purl centre stitch, m knit 3, knit 2 together twice, ^ make i (by throwing the wool over the needle) and knit I twice. You are now at the end of the back needle. Next needle— make i and knit i twice, knit 2 together twice, seam i, knit 2 together twice, make i and knit i four times, knit 2 together twice, seam i, knit 2 together twice, make i and knit i twice. This completes the needle. Knit the next needle exactly the same. You must have 26 stitches on each of these needles always, and until you begin to reduce, 19 on the back needle. Work the back needle up to the centre stitch as follows: make i and knit i twice, knit 2 together twice, knit 3. Repeat from ' five times more. 25th round— purl centre stitch, knit I, knit 2 together, knit plain rest of round till within 3 of the end, when knit 2 together, knit i. This is for the reducing. 26th ^nd 27th rounds— knit plain. 28th \ ^ THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. round— knitted like the 4th, only after and before the centre stitch you will have only 3 plain stitches to knit instead of 3. 29th, 30th, and 31st rounds — knit plain. 32nd round — same as 28th. Repeat from 25 th round twice more, until you have only 13 stitches on your back needle. Observe after each reducing there will be one less to knit before and after the centre stitch in the pattern rounds. The last you must knit 2 together immediately after and before the centre stitch. *49th, 50th, and 51st rounds — knit plain. 52nd round — same as the 4th, only omitting to knit 3 after and before the centre stitch. Repeat from * twice more. If you count the patterns you will find you ought to have worked 15. 6ist round — knit plain. This finishes your sock to the heel. You will have 13 stitches on back needle, 26 on each of others. Prepare for heel by knitting to the end of your back needle, and from first side (or next needle) knit off on back needle 10 stitches, knit the other 16 stitches on another needle, with another needle knit 2nd side needle to within 10 stitches of the end. These 10 you must pass to the heel or back needle without knitting. You will have 33 stitches on heel, 16 on each side needle. The two front needles are not used again till the heel is completed. Heel: — the heel is made by working the back needle backward and forwards, knitting and purling alternate rows until it is long enough, which it will be after working 26 rows; slip the ist stitch in each row, except- ing the first time you knit the first row ; purl or knit the centre stitch as required. 27th row — slip i, knit 20, knit 2 together,* turn, slip i, purl 10, purl 2 together, turn, slip i, knit 10, knit 2 together. Repeat from * until you have only 13 stitches left on needle. With the needle that has 12 stitches on take up, and as you take up knit 15 stitches from side to heel, knit 3 stitches off front needle on same ; knit plain all the stitches from the 2 front needles, excepting the 3 last ; these 3 must be knitted on a third needle, with which take up, and as you take up knit 1 5 stitches from the other side of the heel ; knit also 6 stitches from the next needle on this. You will have 24 stitches on each side needle, 26 on front needle. The next needle is your first side needle. *First side needle — knit plain all till within 5 of the end, when knit 2 together, knit 3. Front needle — make i and knit i twice, knit 2 together twice, purl 1, knit 2 together twice, make I and knit i four times, knit 2 together twice, purl I, knit 2 together twice, make i and knit i twice. Second side needle— knit 3, slip i, knit i, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain to end of needle, knit 3 rounds plain. Re- peat from * until you have only 18 stitches on each side needle. This finishes the reducing for the foot. The 4 rounds between the last asterisks are now to be repeated, only in the pattern rounds do not reduce on the side needles, knit all the stitches plain. The rounds must be repeated until counting the patterns from the top of the socks you have worked 28 and 3 plain rounds beyond. The toe — this is all done in plain knitting. Put as many stitches on your front needle as you have on the other 2 together, taking them as fairly as you can off each side needle, 2 off one end, 3 off the other, you will have 31 on the front needle, 15 on one side needle, 16 on the other ; knit 3 rounds plain and up to the front needle. *To reduce the toe ; front needle — knit i, slip i, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain to within 3 of the end, knit 2 to- gether, knit I. First back needle — knit i, slip i, knit i, pull the slipped' stitch over the knitted one, knit plain to end of needle. Second back needle — knit plain to within 3 of the end, when knit 2 together, knit i ; knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat from * twice more. Repeat from * again, knitting only i round plain between the re- ducing rounds until you have 15 stitches on your front needle, 7 on one back needle, 8 on the other ; knit one round plain, knitting on one needle the stitches off the two back needles. Cast ofir, knitting the stitches on front and back needles together. EDGING FOR SHAWLS. This pattern may be done in either wool or crochet cotton, and is very efTective. Cast on 8 stitches, ist row — slip i, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together. 2nd row — slip i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, put the wool or cotton twice round the pin, knit 2 together. 3rd row — make i by picking up the loop below the ist stitch, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together. 4th row — slip I, knit 3, make l, knit 2 together, knit 4. 5th row— make i, knit 6, make -r, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together. 6th row — slip i, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, put the wool twice round the pin, knit 2 together, put the wool twice round as before, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over knit I. 7th row — slip i, knitji, knit i, purl i,knit i, knit I, purl i, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together. 8th row — slip I, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 7. 9th row — cast off 5 stitches, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together Repeat from 2nd row till length required. GLOVES FOR A GIRL OF 14 OR 16 YEARS. Procure 2 ozs. of crimson wool, 7 stee needles, No. 16. Cast on 18 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 2 on the 3rd. ist round — knit 2, and purl 2 ; repeat to end of round ; knit 36 rounds the same as this. 37th round — knit l, purl i, knit i, purl i ; repeat to end of round ; knit 7 more rounds same as this round. 46th round — divide the stitches, taking the 5 stitches on the 1st needle for the thumb, 25 stitches on the 2nd needle, 26 on the 3rd needle, knit i, purl i, increase a stitch by picking up the loop below the next stitch, knit it, knit I, increase again by picking up a loop as before, and knit it, purl i, knit I, * purl i, knit i ; repeat from *, 47th round — knit i, purl i, purl I. knit I, * purl I, knit I ; repeat from *. 48th round — knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I ; repeat to end. 49th round — exactly the same as 48th round. 50th round — knit I, purl I, pick up a loop as before and knit it, knit i, purl i, knit I, pick up a loop as before and knit it, purl i, knit i, * purl I, knit I ; repeat from *, increase again in 55th round. 60th, 65th, 70th and 75th rounds — in the same manner as the 50th round, knitting throughout the glove in ribs of i plain and I purl. When the 75th round is done, take off on to the pins at each side i stitch at each end of the ist needle; there should then remain 1 5 increased stitches for the thumb. Cast on 7 stitches, which makes 22 in all, divide them on 3 needles, taking 8 stitches on the 1st needle, 6 on 2nd, and 8 on the 3rd needle, knit in ribs for 27 rounds. For tip of thumb — divide the stitches on 4 needles, and decrease by knitting 2 together at the commencement of each needle till all are knitted off ; secure the end with a rug needle. Return to the hand part — pickup 5 stitches at the top of the stitches cast on for the thumb, and knit 22 rounds, still in ribs, or until sufficiently long for the hand part of the wearer. For the 1st finger — take the 5 stitches over the 5 picked up at the thumb, and 1 1 stitches on the right hand of these 5 stitches, cast on 4 stitches, unite them, knit 30 rounds, divide the stitches for taking off the tip of finger same as for thumb on 4 needles, and knit 2 stitches to- gether at the beginning till all are knitted off. For the 2nd finger — take 8 stitches from the inside, pick up 3 at the edge of the 4 cast on, take 8 from the back of the hand, cast on 2, knit 33 rounds. For finger tip, divide as for 1st finger, and cast oft' the same. For 3rd finger — take 6 stitches from the inside, pick up 3 at the edge of the cast on stitches, take 8 from back of hand, cast on 3, knit in ribs for 31 rounds. For tip of finger, same as 1st finger. For little finger — pick up 2 stitches at the edge of 3 cast on, and 16 stitches that remain, knit 27 rounds. P'or tip of finger, same as ist finger. For the left hand glove — in the ist finger, take 11 stitches from the left hand side of the 5 picked up at the thumb. This is the only difference required. DRAWERS FOR BOY OF SIX. These little garments are extremely warm and wear better than flannel. They are so easily made that the most inexperienced knitter need not fear to attempt them. Three skeins grey petti- coat wool, 2 wooden needles, No. 7, and 2 steel needles. No. 12, will be required. For the ribbing — cast on 40 stitches with the steel needles, knit 2 and purl 2 alternately for iS rows, iglh row — purl. 20th row — knit plain. 21st row — purl. 22nd row — knit 2, make a stitch by knitting the back half of the last stitch you have just knitted, knit to within 2 stitches of the end of your needle, make a stitch, knit 2 ; repeat frnm the 19th row u times more. You will now have 12 increasings up each side of your 107 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. work and 64 stitches on your needle. Commence vent in front by knitting 6 stitches, purhng to end of row. 2nd row — knit plain ; repeat these 2 rows till you have 32 rows from last narrowing. Cast off 32 stitches ; purl to end. 34th row — knit 2, knit 2 together, knit to end of row. 35th row — cast off 4, purl to end. 36th row — knit plain. 37th row — cast off 4, purl to end. 38th row — knit plain. 39th row— cast off 4, purl to end. 40th row — knit 2, knit 2 together, knit to end. 41st row — cast off 4, purl to end. 42nd row — knit plain. 43rd row— cast off 4, purl to end. 44th row — knit plain. 45th row — cast off 4, purl to end. 46th row— knit 2, knit 2 together, knit to end. 47th row — cast oft 4, purl to end. 48th row — knit plain. 49th row — cast off. This completes one leg. Knit a second leg exactly the same till you come to the end of the increasings. 1st row of vent — purl 58 stitches, knit 6. 2nd row — knit plain ; repeat these rows till you have 32 rows from last narrowing, purl a row, cast off 32 stitches, knit to within 4 stitches of the end of needle, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl back, cast off 4, knit to end ; continue in this way till all are cast off, narrowing twice more at centre of back to correspond with the other leg. For gusset — cast on 2 stitches, * purl back, increasing a stitch at the end of your needle, knit the next I'ow, increasing a stitch at the end of the row ; repeat from * till you have 15 stitches on your needle ; now decrease i stitch in each row till you have only 2 stitches left ; fasten off. The gusset should be square. With a wool needle, sew up the legs as far as the 8th increasing, take the gusset and join the ist stitch to where the edge for the front vent begins in both legs, place its next corner where you sewed up the leg to the 8th increasing, and sew the gusset in its place. The 3rd corner of the gusset should come to about the 40th row from the top of the drawers at the back ; sew the two backs together ; now sew the drawers to a strong calico band at the waist and work buttonholes as convenient. You should put 32 stitches to each front quarter of the band, leaving the sloped part to the back quarters. GENTLEMAN'S VEST. Small Size. Materials required for the above vest : — | lb. of single Berlin wool and 4 bone or wooden needles, pointed at each end. No. 10, Walker's Bell Gauge. Cast on 184 stitches, namely, 61 on 2 pins, and 62 on the 3rd. Now knit 10 rows of ribbing in 3 purl and 3 plain. nth row — knit 91 stitches plain, I purl for seam stitch, and repeat 91 stitches with i purl stitch for seam, to correspond with the opposite side ; now repeat plain knitting for 190 rows, taking care to keep the seam stitches at each side ; now com- mence gusset, still knitting on 4 needles. ist row — do seam stitch, make i by putting wool forward, purl i, knit 37 stitches plain, purl 13 stitches for centre of front, knit 37, purl i, make i as before, purl i, knit 91 plain across back, remembering to keep seam stitch each side of gussets. 2nd row — purl i, knit i, purl i, knit 91, purl i, knit I, purl i, knit 91. 3rd row — purl I, make i, knit I, make i, purl I, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, make i 108 knit I, make i, purl i, knit 91. 4th row — knit all round except at seam stitches. 5th row — purl i, knit I, make i, knit i, make I, knit I, purl i, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit i, make i, knit I, make i, knit i, purl I," knit 91. 6th row — plain knitting. 7th row — purl I, knit i, make I, knit 3, make i, knit I, purl i, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit i, make i, knit 3, make i, knit I, purl i, knit 91. 8th row — plain knitting. 9th row — purl I, knit I, make i, knit 5, make i, knit i, purl i, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit i, make i, knit 5, make I, knit I, purl i, knit 91. loth row — plain knitting. nth row — purl i, knit I, make i, knit 7, make I, knit i, purl i, knit 37, purl i, knit i, make I, knit 7, make i, knit i, purl I, knit 91. 12th row — plain knitting. 13th row — purl I, make i, knit 9, make I, knit i, purl I, knit 91. 14th row — plain knitting. 15th row — purl i, knit i, make i,knit II, make i, knit i, purl i, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit I, make I, knit II, make i, knit i, purl I, knit 91. i6th row — plain knitting. 17th row — purl i, knit I, make I, knit 13, make i, knit i, purl I, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, make i, knit 13, make i, knit I, purl i, knit 91. i8th row— plain knitting. 19th row- purl I, knit I, make i, knit 15, make i, knit i, purl i, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit i, make i, knit 15, make I, knit i, purl I, knit 91. 20th row — plain knitting. 21st row — -purl i, knit I, make i, knit 17, make i, knit I, purl i, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit i, make i, knit 17, make i, knit I, purl i, knit 91. 22nd row — plain knitting. 23rd row — purl i, knit i, make i, knit 19, make i, knit i, purl I, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit I, make i, knit 19, make i, knit i, purl i, knit 91. 24th row — plain knitting. 25th row — purl i, knit i, make I, knit 21, make i, knit I, purl I, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, make i, knit 21, make i, knit I, purl i, knit 91. 26th row — plain knitting. 27th row — purl I, knit i, make i, knit 23, make I, knit i, purl i, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl I, knit I, make i, knit 23, make i, knit I, purl i, knit 91. 2Sth row — plain knitting. 29th row — purl I, knit I, make i, knit 25, make i, knit i, purl I, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit i, make i, knit 25, make I, knit i, purl i, knit 91. 30th row — plain knitting. 31st row — purl i, knit I, make i, knit 27, make i, knit i, purl i, knit 37, purl 13, knit 37, purl i, knit I, make i, knit 27, make I, knit I, purl i, knit 91. 32nd row — plain knitting. Now thread 2 seam and 27 gusset stitches on a piece of wool and tie up each side ; take stitches all across back on to one needle and tie at each end with wool to prevent the stitches slipping off. N ow put the front on to 2 needles, equally dividing the stitches, and knit plain and purl alternately for 45 rows, always slipping the ist stitch ; on the purl side the centre 13 stitches must always be knitted. Now knit 30 stitches off 1st needle, and cast off loosely the remaining ones, leaving 30 stitches at the end of 2nd needle for the other shoulder ; now knit these 30 stitches plain and purl alternately for 22 rows, slipping the ist stitch at each row; now break off wool, leaving a short length, but do not cast off ; now knit the 30 stitches on the 2nd needle in the same way to form the front halves of shoulders. Place both shoulder stitches on to one needle, and tie at each end to prevent them slipping off, as you will require the 3 remaining needles to work the back with ; this finishes the front. For back knit purl and plain alternately for 50 rows, slipping the ist stitch, knit 30 stitches; cast off till within 30 stitches of the 2nd needle, knit these 30 stitches purl and plain alternately for 17 rows, slipping the 1st stitch at each end ; now take left hand shoulder of front, turn the vest on wrong side, place the front and back needle together and knit together on wrong side, then cast off; this is much neater and more durable than sewing the seams; knit right hand shoulder and join together in the same way. Now pick up stitches round the neck and rib 1 purl and i plain for 10 rows ; this finishes neck of vest. For left hand sleeve take the 29 gusset stitches off wool on to a needle, purl seam stitch. Now pick up 72 stitches round armhole on 2 needles ; this should bring you to the seam stitch, which must be knitted plain at back of vest, knit across gusset to within 3 stitches from seam, slip i, knit i, take slipped stitch over, knit I, purl seam stitch ; now knit aj plain row all round sleeve till you come to seam, which must be purled all down the sleeve ; continue decreasing on gusset side of seam every other row until there are 20 intakes ; now decrease each side of seam every 5th row until there are 18 intakes ; this should reduce your sleeve to 44 stitches, then knit 10 rows plain ; your sleeve should now be 140 rows long ; then commence to rib in I purl and i plain for 30 rows, and cast off. Now pick up stitches round 2nd armhole and commence to work the sleeve in the same manner as the one Just finished, taking care to keep the seam stitch in the front of sleeve. This is a most comfortable and perfect fitting vest. It should be washed in warm soap and water, made into a good lather before the vest is put in, and when washed it should be wrung in a dry cloth. If washed in this manner it will not shrink or become hard. The beauty THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. of this vest is, that it can have new top, new tail or new half sleeves knitted on at anytime, thus saving all darning, and making the vest last for years. GIRL'S STOCKING KNITTED IN NAVY BLUE SHETLAND WOOL. About 5 ozs. of Shetland wool will be required and 4 steel knitting needles. No. 20. Cast on 117 stitches. Knit I row, purl t row ; repeat these 2 rows 12 times. 25th row — knit 2, purl I, and repeat all round. The leg is all done in this rib. This stocking is knitted without a seam stitch, being found to work equally well without it, and perhaps easier to manage at the decreasings. When you have ribbed 84 inches the decreasing for the calf may be begun. Work the first 2 stitches together and the last 2 together,rib 10 rows without decreasing, then decrease again as before, and continue decreasing every nth row till you have decreased 8 times. It isbestnot to pay any attention to the ribbing in the decreased stitches, and it will come right when the decreasing is all finished. When you have decreased 8 times, continue the decreasing with only 6 rows between each for 7 times more. You will then have decreased in 15 rows, that is, 30 stitches, so that you should have 87 stitches left ; rib 7 inches for the ankle, and then begin the heel. For the heel you must have 44 stitches. The ribbing is now discontinued and the whole heel knitted in alternate rows of plain and purl, ist row — knit 22' stitches, * turn back, purl 44, turn back, knit 44, and repeat from *, passing the remaining stitches on to an extra needle or piece of wool. Work these 2 rows for an inch and a half, that will be about 40 rows, and then turn the heel, then knit 22, knit 2 together, knit I, turn back, purl 7, purl 2 together, purl i, turn back and repeat, each time working off one more stitch till all have been worked off. Then pick up 20 stitches down the left side of the 40 heel rows, knitting them as you pick them up. Work the 43 stitches on the extra needle in ribbing as before, pick up 20 stitches on the right side of the 40 heel rows, and work round twice more, keeping the 2 back needles knitted plain, the front needle ribbed. In the next row, beginning at the first back needle, that is, the one on the left of the ribbed needle, decrease by knitting the 2nd and 3rd stitches together, and decrease again at the end of the 2nd back needle by knitting together the 2nd and 3rd from the end. Work 3 rows without decreasing and then continue decreasing in the same way every 4th row till you have 87 stitches left ; then work without decreasing till the foot measures 6 inches from the heel. Then discontinue the ribbing and work plain all •round for 8 rows, after which you decrease for the toe ; knit 2 together at the lieginning and end of the front needle, at the beginning of the 1st back needle, and the end of the 3rd ; knit 3 rows without decreasing and continue decreasing in the same way every 4th row till you have worked nearly 2 inches from where the ribbing was discontinued. Then cast off all the stitches and sew up neatly, or fold the 2 sides together, and cast off both together. COVER FOR PIE DISH. Materials : — 6 steel needles, No. 16, i oz. Strutt's 3-ply knitting cotton, No. 16. Cast on on each of 4 needles 86 stitches, and 88 on a 5th, making total 432. Join round by knitting a few stitches from 1st needle on to the last one, leave a short end of cotton to show where the rows begin. 1st row — plain knitting. 2nd row — make i, take 2 together all round. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — * slip i, take 2 together, and bring the slipped i over so as to decrease 2 stitches, knit 4 plain, make i, knit i, make I, knit 4, and repeat from *. 5th row — the same, being careful to increase and decrease exactly where you did so in last row. 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th rows — the same. loth, nth and i2th rows — plain knitting. The pattern is reversed after the plain rows, that is, where you decreased in the last you now increase, and vice i/etsa, therefore you begin the 13th row by make I, knit I, make I, knit 4, slip i, take 2 together, bring slipped i over, knit 4, and so on all round. 14th, 15th, i6th, 17th, i8th rows — the same. 19th, 20th, 21st rows — plain knitting. 22nd, 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th rows — same as 4th row. 28th, 29th, 30th rows — plain knitting. 31st, 32nd, 33rd, 34th, 35th, 36th rows— same as 13th row. 37th, 38th, 39th rows— plain knitting. 40th, 41st, 42nd, 43rd, 44th, 45th rows — same as 4th row. 46th, 47th, 48th rows — plain knitting. 49th, 50th, 51st, 52nd, 53rd, S4th rows— same as 13th row. S5th, 56th, 57th rows— plain knitting. 58th, 59th, 6oth, 6ist, 62nd, 63rd rows — same as 4th row. 64th, 65th, 66th rows — plain knitting. 67th, 68th, 69th, 70th, 71st, 72nd rows— same as 13th row. 73rd, 74th, 75th rows— plain knitting. 76th row—* take 2 together in centre of the decreased pattern, and knit 10 plain ; repeat from *. 77th row — the same as last row, with 9 plain between decreasings. 78th row— the same, with 8 plain. 79th row— the same, with 7 plain between. 80th row-same, 6 plain. 8ist row — same, with 5 plain between. 82nd row— same, 4 plain. 83rd row — same, 3 plain. 84th row— same, 2 plain. 85th row— same, with 1 plain. 86th row — plain row. 87th row — close; cast off. The right side of the knitting is the wrong side of the cover. Place the pie dish into the cover, and put a piece of cotton into the open row, so as to make the scallops stand up round the edge. INVALID'S BED-REST. |lb. Strutt's knitting cotton. No. 4, 2 bone needles, No. 8, 12 yards white webbing, I inch wide. Cast on 28 stitches. Always slip the ist stitch of every row. ist and 2nd rows — knit 8, make i, knit 2 to- gether, knit the rest. 3rd and 4th rows — knit plain. Repeat these 4 for 28 rows. 29th and 30th rows — knit 8, make i, knit the rest. 31st and 32nd rows — knit plain. Repeat these last 4 rows until you have 100 stitches, then do ist, 2nd, 3rd and 4th rows for 60 rows, then A and B rows — knit 7, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, knit the rest. C and D rows — knit plain ; repeat A, B, C, D rows until you have only 28 stitches. Knit 28 rows as I, 2, 3 and 4; cast off. Bind the ends with webbing; put strings 2^ yards long. To use, tie to the posts at foot of bed, and place the "knitting round the invalid's shoulders; a pillow can be placed between the knitting and the invalid if desired for still greater ease. SUBSCRIPTION FORM roK MRS, LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET. NOTICE. Subscribers unable to procure the above from their Newsagent can have it forwarded direct from the Publisher for Twelve months, post free, for Thirty Stamps. To the Publisher, Please to foi-ward me MRS. LEACH'S :h^ .A. nsr c "2- -woE,ic-B.A.s:K:Ea? For Twelve MoiUhs, addressed io Mrs St • 2s, 0d. enchsed. Commence with No. for IS" This Subscription entitles you to any Extra Nos. 109 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Croehet. LADY'S SHOULDER CAPE. Imitation of Astrachan. Materials re- quired : lo balls of best black ice wool, 4J ozs. black An- dalusian wool, i yard of black rib- bon, ij inches wide, I yard of silk cord, and 6 "large buttons ; a medium size bone crochet hook. Make a chain of 56 with theAndalusian. 1st row — I treble into the 6lh from the needle, 2 treble in- to the same stitch, *miss I chain, 3tre- ble into the next ; repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row — turn with i chain, 3 treble be- tween the 2 first groups of 3 trebles in previous row, ■* 3 treble in next hole ; repeat from * 4 times more, 6 treble in next group to increase for the shoulder, work 3 treble into each of the next 6 holes, increase again by working 6 treble into the next hole; this is the centre of back ; work treble as before into the next 6 holes, increase again for right shoulder, 6 more groups to finish row, You had better tie apiece of cotton or coloured wool at the places where these increasings come, to save tedious counting, as they always come in the same places in every alternate row. 3rd row- plain without any increase, that is, 3 treble between every 2 groups nf 3 trebles in last row. The foundation of the cape is worked throughout like this, always turn with i chain. 4th row— 6 groups, increase, 14 groups, increase, 6 groups to end row. 5th row — plain. 6th row — 7 groups, increase, 7 groups, increase, 6 groups, increase, 7 groups to finish row. 7th row — plain. 8th row — 7 groups, in- crease, increase again, 1 5 groups, increase twice, plain to end. 9th row — plain. loth row — 9 groups, increase, 8 groups, increase, 9 groups, increase, plain to end. nth row — plain. 12th row — 9 groups, increase twice, 19 groups, increase twice, 9 groups to finish row. 13th row — plain. 14th row — 10 groups, increase, 10 groups, increase, 10 groups, increase, plain to end. 15th row — plain. i6th row — 1 1 groups, increase twice, 22 groups, increase twice, plain to end. 17th row — plain. i8th row — plain. 19th row — 13 groups, increase, 12 groups, increase, 12 groups, increase, plain to end. 20th row— plain. 21st row — plain. 22nd row — 1 1 groups, increase twice, 27 groups, increase twice, plain to end. 23rd row — plain. 24th row— plain. 25th row — plain. 26throw — 15 groups, increase, 13 group?, increase, 14 groups, increase, plain to end. 27th row — plain, 28th row — plain. 29th row — plain. 30th row — 13 groups, increase twice, 33 groups, increase twice, plain to end. 31st row — plain. 32nd row — plain. 33rd row — plain. 34th row — 15 groups, increase, 17 groups, increase, 15 groups, increase, plain to end. 35th row — plain. 36th row — plain. 37th row — plain. 38th row — 14 group s, increase twice, 34 groups, increase twice, plain to end. 39th row — plain. 40th row — plain. 41st row — plain. 42nd row — 17 groups, increase, 17 groups, increase, 18 groups, increase, plain to end. 43rd row — plain. 44th row — plain. 45th row — plain. 46th row — 17 groups, increase twice, 38 groups, increase twice, plain to end. This completes the foundation. You can make it longer if you n'ish by adding a few more rows. Now commence to work theice wool at the neck; fasten on securely at the right hand side with a double,* 18 chain, 1 double into centre treble of next group of 3; repeat from * to end of row, turn with 18 chain, and work back in the Sitme way at bottom of row. Every row is worked like this, that is, 18 chain, i double into every group of 3 twice into each row, once at the top, and once at the bottom ; in the last row repeat 4 timet, twice at the top and twice at the bottom, to make it thicker, also at tfte neck ; crochet a row of double round the neck to make it firm. Fell the ribbon down each front, divide the cord into 3 and form into loops and sew on at equal distances on right hand side of 110 cape, sew a button on top of the cord, and then on the other side to correspond, and the cape is ready for wear. A larger cape can be made by using Berlin wool for the foundation ANTIMACASSAR. Materials required : — A piece of dark brown velveteen 9 inches long, 1 1 inches wide ; 6 skeins of crewel wool — dark green (olive), a lighter shade, pale yellow, deep crimson ; a skein of crewel silk to match the crimson and yellow, and brown ; 2i skeins of chenille^ yellow, 2 shades of crimson, 2 shades of green ; 2 yards of silk cord in 3 shades of green and crimson — these colours must all harmonise — 4j oz. of dark red double Berlin wool, 2j oz. of a lighter shade, li oz. lighter, 2J oz. each of dark orange and of lighter, li oz. pale yellow. The lightest yellow should match the crewel materials, also the lightest shades of red. You will also require a transfer pattern, which should be handsome, and not less than 12 inches long and 9 broad, li yard of black victoria lawn, coarse make, and a coarse bone hook. First do the crewel pattern on the velveteen. The design was poppies and yellow daisies. The two half-blown poppies were worked with crimson wool and chenille, and outlined with the silk, the centre of the lower one lightest green wool, the seeds yellow silk, the upper one had a dark green centre. The full-blown poppy had a centre of both shades of green wool, and the daisies had centres of brown silk ; the leaves were dark and light green, the stems dark green wool and silk, the buds dark and light crimson tips. Having finished your crew6l work, line the velveteen with a piece of muslin. Now make the crochet border. With the THE FANCY WQRK-BASKET. darkest orange make a chain that will go easily round your velveteen, join. First row, 4 treble into a stitch, catch the first and last treble together to form a knob with a slipstitch, i chain, miss a stitch, I treble into next, i chain, and repeat from beginning all round. You must measure where your corners will come ; do not miss a stitch. 2nd row — with second shade, i chain, i knobover the treble in last row, i chain, i treble in the middle of knob ; repeat all round. At the corners, do a knob each side of the treble. Every row is like the 2nd row. 3rd row — lightest shade. 4th row — second shade. 5th row — darkest 6th row — darkest crimson, ythtrow — second. 8th row —lightest. 9th row — second. lothrow — darkest. Now crochet the following edge all roundwiththecrimson — i double crochet into a stitch, 4 chain, picot back into the double crochet, i chain, and repeat. Make a fringe as follows — take 12 strands of the darkest shade of red about 14 inches long, fold in half, and work 10 double crochet in the centre ; join with a loose chain, 3 chain, i double in the first of the 10 double, 4 chain, picot back as in edge, 1 chain ; repeat once more ; i double into next stitch, 3 chain, catch in third picot of bottom of antimacassar, 3 chain, i double into the same stitch on the fringe, miss a picot of the antimacassar, and catch in the next picot in the same way, that is, the first picot in the right hand corner ; make 2 more picots and fasten off. Now take the second shade of red wool, and make another tassel; proceed as before, catching in the 4th picot from last one joined, miss a picot, catch in the next, and catch in the 2 picots of other tassels. All the tassels are joined on like this, leaving one picot of the antimacassar on each tassel and between ; do another dark red one, a dark yellow one, 2 second shade yellow ones, another dark yellow, a dark red, a second shade of red and a dark red. Now do the other end the same. Now sew the velveteen to the border, and hide the join with the cord; line border with the rest of the muslin lining, and bring it up over the edge of centre. WORK-BAG. Materials required : — f lb. Macrame thread. No. 5, bone crochet hook. No. 8, i yard of sarcenet forlining, 2jyardsof satin ribbon, i inch wide, to run in and make bows of. Commence at the bottom of the bag. Make a chain of 70 stitches, join it, work 2 rows of double crochet, picking up the back strand only. 3rd row — work 2 double cro- chet in the next stitch, I double crochet into 3 successive stitches 2 double crochet in the next, work 1 double cro- shet into 30 successive ctitches, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, i double crochet into 3 successive stitches, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, then work I double> crochet into 30 suc- cessive stitches ; repeat the 3rd row 8 times more, never omitting to put 2 double crochet into the ist and last stitches of the 2 double crochet on each side ; work i double crochet till you come to the middle of the last row, then join with i single crochet. 12th row — I chain, miss i, i double crochet all along the row, except at the 4 corners, where you work an additional i chain, i double crochet in the same holes ; when you come to the end of the row, join it with i single crochet. 13th row — 2 chain, * thread over the hook, and raise a loop under the i chain, thread over the hook, and raise another loop in the same place (all the loops to be as long and loose as possible), draw the thread through all these loops, then through the 2 stitches on the needle, i chain ; repeat from * to end of row. Repeat these 2 last rows alternately until you have done 5 rows of the Dutch crochet altogether, join it. For the edge, make 7 chain, i single in the 3rd stitch, raise 4 loops as for tricot in the next 4 loops, also in 2 stitches at the top of the bag, pull the thread through all the loops together, including the stitch on the hook, 5 chain, l single in the 3rd stitch from the hook, * raise a loop in the 2 stitches below, in the next hole raise I, 1 in the next stitch, also 2 stitches at the top of the bag — there will be 7 stitches on the hook, pull through all, 5 chain, I single in the 3rd from the hook, and repeat from * to the end of the row, join it, and fasten off. For the bottom, make a chain of 24 stitches, work 2 rows of double crochet round it, that is, on both sides, increase in 3 stitches at each end to round it, crochet it into the bag with single crochet. The edge round the join at the bottom is worked the same as the one at the top of the bag. For the handles, cut 14 lengths of thread, i yard and 4 inches long, take 14 threads, hold 7 straight in the left hand, knot the others on to it, once with the right hand ; hold these threads straight in the right hand, and knot the others on to it with the left ; repeat doing this till you have worked the threads up. Make another handle just like this, and sew them on the bag. Then line it, run 2 rows of ribbon into it, and make 2 bows for the centre of the bag. If you get a hank of gilt cord, crochet a chain with it, and tack under the hem of the lining, it is a pretty finish. LADY'S BEDROOM SLIPPERS. No. 4 AND 5 Size. Materials required for a pair are : li ozs. crimson double Berlin wool, half an ounce single to match, ij yards narrow flat elastic, i yard of satin or ottoman ribbon same colour as wool, li yards alpaca braid to match wool, 2 pairs of cork socks, bone tricot hook No. 6, steel hook No. 16, and reel of ingrain cotton. Com- mence for the toe or frontof slipper with tricot hook, work 1 1 chain, take up all the stitches in tricoter, work back. 2nd row — i chain to increase a stitch, take up all the stitches, but make a stitch at end of row by taking up i between the last z stitches of ist row. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — increase i stitch at beginning and end of row, same as 2nd row. 5th row — plain. 6th row — increase i stitch at beginning and end of row. 7th row — plain. 8th row — increase I stitch at beginning and end of row. 9th row — plain. 10th row — increase i stitch at beginning and end of row. nth row — plain. 12th row — increase i stitch at beginning and end of row. 13th row — plain. 14th row — increase i stitch at beginning and end of row. 15th row — same, when there should be 27 stitches ; this finishes the front piece. Now work 8 stitches for 16 rows, break off; take up 8 stitches and work 16 rows the other side, join up at back of heel; this is to go round side and back. For the feather trimming at top use the steel hook and single Berlin; work a length of looped crochet (3 loops is wide enough) long enough to go all round the top of slipper, sew it on, work the other one in same way, bind one pair of the soles with the braid neatly, and sew the slippers on to the wrong side, turn them, run the elastic in and out of the top of trimming wrong side, draw it up to the size of foot, tack the other pair of socks at back of the heel, so as they do not slip out, make 2 bows and sew i on front of each slipper, whf n t lese cosy comforts will be ready for use. No. 2 Size. These are worked in the same stitch and hooks. You will re- quire I oz. of double Berlin, and i oz. of single, a piece of braid to bind the soles and i yard of ribbon for bows. Commence with 9 chain. Take up all the stitches in tricoter, work back. 2nd row — turn with i-^chain to increase at beginning of row, take up the stitches andiincrease i at end of row by taking up i between the last 2 stitches.. ;3rd row — plain. 4th row — increase i stitch at beginning and end of row. 5th row — plain. 6th row — increase i stitch at beginning and end of row. 7th row — plain. Sth row — increase i stitch at beginning and end of row. 9th row — plain, loth row — increase l stitch at beginning and end of row. nth row — plain, nth row— increase i stitch at beginning and end of row, when there should be 21 stitches; take up 6 of these and work for 15 rows to go round to heel, work 6 the other side for 15 rows in same way ; join up at back of heel. Trim the tops with looped crochet, bind the soles, and finish off in same way as the lady's, putting a second pair of soles inside. CHILDREN'S SLIPPERS. No. 12 Size. These are worked in exactly the same way for toe, but only 12 rows of 6 stitches to go round each side to heel. Trim with looped crochet and finish off in the same way. Ill THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. No. 8 Size. Commence the toe piece or front with 8 chain, and increase I stitch at beginning and end of every other row; work like this until y6u have ii rows, then take up 6 stitches and work 12 rows to go round to heel ; work 6 stitches the other side for 12 rows, join. Trim with the looped crochet, and finish off in same way. These slippers will be found most useful for the nursery. SHETLAND SHAWL. New Shell Pattern. Materials required ;— 1 lb. of the best white Shetland wool, and 3 skeins of ruby EUiottine, which is a soft mixture of silk and wool, the size of best Shetland ; 2 bone hooks, Nos. 4 and 9. You commence with white Shetland, and bone hook No. 4, which is the coarsest, make a chain of about if yards, then turn, missing 8 chain, to form a shell, throw wool twice over needle and insert in gth, draw wool up about J an inch, and work off as usual. Make 5 more long stitches like this in same stitch, pass over 6 chain stitches and work 6 more long treble, always pass over 6 chain and repeat from * all along the foundation chain, until you have 23 patterns or shells ; turn with 8 chain and work 6 long treble in the centre of the 6 chain between the shells of the last or ist row ; continue to work 6 long treble between each shell, until the end, when there will be 23 shells or patterns; finish row with a double crochet stitch into the chain of last row; this keeps it even. Turn with 8 chain, and work 6 long treble between the 3rd and 4th treble of 2nd shell, no chain between ; you work over every other shell in same way, remembering to finish off each row by i double crochet ; turn with 8 chain and work 6 long treble into centre of 2nd shell, and continue in same way to the end of the row, always having 23 shells or patterns in every row; you work in this way until you have a square, which you can tell by folding it across like a half square. This completes the centre of shawl. Now for the border— you take the hook, No. 9, which is the finest, and work with white a row of 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble into every hole down the side which is made by the 8 chain to turn, and increase at the corners by working 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble ; work round bottom, top and other side in exactly the same way, increasing at each corner, and counting the sets of 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, to see you have exactly the same number each side, top and bottom, or the shawl will not keep a perfect square ; the model one was 46 each side. It depends a great deal on the worker, some 112 work tight and others very loose, so that a tight worker would have more rows than a loose one. It should be worked in a moderate way, not tight, or it would lose the shell-like appearance. 2nd row of border — fasten on the ruby EUiottine and work a row in exactly the same way as last, only increasing more at each corner, by working 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble. 3rd row — with white wool work a row in precisely the same way, but only increase once in the corners, that is 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble. 4th row — in ruby work in same way, but increase more at each corner in same manner as 2nd row. 5th row — with white wool work 3 long, very long stitches, which forms a kind of cable stitch, that is to say, you wind the wool round your hook 3 times, and work off separately through each; work these 3 long stitches into the 1st hole made by the i chain in last row, then i chain, 3 long stitches into next hole, and continue in same way to the end of the row, increase at each corner by working 4 long treble stitches, 5 chain, 4 long treble. 6th row — in Avhite work in exactly the same way, but increase by working 3 long treble between the 4 long treble at each corner,besides working 4 long treble, 5 chain, 4 long treble into the corner hole; do each the same. 7th row— work exactly the same. 8th row — fasten on ruby wool and work a row of 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into the centre of the 3 long treble stitches of the last row, and in • crease at the corners in same way as ist row of ruby. 9th row — ruby for the edge, work 3 chain and insert the hook after making 3 chain into the 1st hole and work I double crochet stitch, then throw your wool over the needle and draw up loosely for 9 times or loops and unite by I chain, this forms a knob or bunch, then 3 chain, I double into the same hole, 3 chain, I double into next hole, then 3 chain, i double, 3 chain, draw up 9 loops loosely on to your hook and unite by i chain, this forms the 2nd knob ; you now continue working in this way all round, only see that you have the corners full enough. loth and last row — in ruby to form the scallop, 3 chain, i treble into the centre of knob, which is formed by the I chain to unite in last row, * 5 chain, which unite to the 1st stitch, that is, catch the 5 th stitch into the ist, thereby forming a picot, then i treble, 5 chain again ; make 7 of these picots into the same little hole, which forms a pretty and effective scallop ; then 3 chain, i double crochet into the same double crochet stitch of last row ; then 3 chain, i long into the centre of the 2nd knob, and repeat from * ; work in the same manner all round the shawl, but work 9 picots of 5 chain, i long into each corner knob, so that it is a little fuller. This is an elegant finish to the shawl, and an edge which can be adapted for so many purposes. Blue or any colour Shetland can be used, insetad of the ruby EUiottine, and would not be so expensive, or all white if preferred. SOFA COUVRETTE In Crazy Stitch. Materials : equal quantities of selected coloured single Berlin wool and black for a large couvrette, i.e., ij lbs. of coloured wool, and il lbs. black. For an antimacassar, from 4 to 6 ozs. coloured wool, and the same of black. A small crochet hook to match the wool. No. 9 or 10. By selected wool is meant that each | oz. must be of a different shade, or at least each ^ oz. is preferable Select the shades in groups of 2, which shall either shade together or harmonise together; for instance, 3 shades of blue, \ oz. of each shade, 3 shades of brown, or pink, or green, or yellow, and 2 browns to harmonise, or pale pink, slate green, and a very light yellow will go together. Make 4 chain and unite into a round, ist THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. round — make 3 chain to count for the 1st treble, 2 treble into the hole, * I chain, 3 treble into the next hole ; repeat from * twice more, then i chain, and join to the 3rd chain you made to count for the 1st treble, break oft the wool and draw in the end at the back; you have 4 sets of 3 treble. 2nd round — take the next shade or colour, draw the wool through a hole formed by the one chain, make 2 chain of the double wool to make the wool firm, i chain more to complete the 1st treble, 2 treble into the same hole ; *i chain, 3 more treble into the same hole ; you thus make a corner ; i chain, 3 treble in the next hole, and repeat from * until you have finished the round, and have a corner in each of the 4 holes. 3rd round— take another shade and fasten on the wool as before, drawing it through the hole between the corners in the previous round, 2 treble in the same hole, i chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the next hole, which is the middle of the corner, * i chain, 3 treble in the next hole, i chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the middle of the next corner, and repeat from * to the end of the round ; finish off with one chain, and join to the ist treble (the one made by the 3 chain) ; break olT the wool and draw the end in through the back of the work. 4th round — take the black wool, draw through the ist hole on one side, and make 3 chain to count for the 1st treble, as before, 2 treble in the same hole, i chain, 3 treble in the next hole, i chain, 3 treble, J chain, 3 treble into the middle of the corner, * I chain, 3 treble into the next hole, i chain, 3 treble into the next hole to that, i chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the middle of the next corner, and repeat from * until the round is complete except closing; I chain, close the round as usual. This completes the square. Make a large number of squares varying colours and shades as much as possible; always have the 3 first rounds coloured, and the 4th round black. When a considerable number is made, arrange them prettily, and then sew the squares together, being sure to get all corners even. The border is in black, and is worked the short way, and afterwards sewn on or crocheted round the couvrette. Make 28 chain, turn, ist row — 2 treble, i chain, 3 treble all into the 5th chain, make 7 chain, miss 14 loops, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the 15th loop, miss 7 loops, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble into the last loop. 2nd row — i chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble all into the middle of the 1st picot through the hole made by the i chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble,all into the hole in the middle of the next picot,4 chain,! double crochet into the middle of the 14 chain which were part of your foundation, 4 chain, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble, all into the next and last picot. By working the double crochet into the last row but i you draw 3 rows of chain together and make a kind of cross. 3rd row — I chain to turn, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble, all into the middle of the 1st picot, 7 chain, i picot (that is, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble) into the middle of each of the remaining picots. 4th row — i chain to turn, I picot in each of the next 2 picots, 9 chain, i picot in the last picot. 5th row— I chain to turn, i picot in the ist picot, 7 chain, I picot in the middle of each of the 2 remaining picots. 6th row — I chain to turn, i picot in each of the 2 next picots, 4 chain, i double crochet in the 5th chain of the 9 you made in the last row but I, working the double crochet round the middle of the 7 chain in the previous row. This arrangement of lines gives you a straight line and a cross alternately ; now i picot in the remaining picot. Begin again with the 3rd row and repeat from that until you have a sufficient length to go round your couvrette, allowing fulness enough to make the corners flat ; you have now a long narrow strip with 2 picots on one side of the centre openwork, and i picot on the other side. Now work along the edge, which has the 1 picot, the following : — 2 double crochet into the ist hole in the top of the ist scallop, * 4 chain (not too tight), 2 double crochet in the hole in the middle of the next scallop ; repeat from * to the end of the row. For the other side — i double crochet into the hole in the ist scallop or picot, * * I double treble into the hole in the middle of the next picot, * I chain, i double treble into the same hole ; repeat from * until you can count 8 double treble and 7 holes, then make i double crochet into the same hole ; repeat from * * to the end of your work. 2nd long row— i double crochet in the ist hole in the ist scallop, * 3 chain, i double crochet in the next hole ; repeat from* till you come to the last hole in the scallop, now make 3 chain, i single crochet into the ist double treble in next scallop, and repeat from the Ist * in the 2nd row to the end of the row. Sew your border strongly, but in an elastic manner, round your work. Two variations of the above would be an improvement in the eyes of some. 1st — a row of treble worked along the row of chain on the plain side of the border. 2nd — a row of yellow satin ribbon run under the cross and over the straight chain alternately, gives a very hand- some finish,and does not cost a great deal of money ; finish with bow at one corner. This is much handsomer than the plain directions would lead anyone to suppose. The beauty consists in even work, and a good arrangement of colours. It is delightful and interesting work, very easy, and can be carried about in small portions. If the expense of li lbs. of wool coloured, and ij lbs. black, is too much at once, it is just as easy to buy 3 ozs. at once, and use that up first. By this means you find out exactly how much wool you need to finish the work the size you wish it. Buy a little black to border the squares as you make them, as otherwise you get more black crochet at once than is good for the eyes. Three ounces of wool make a large number of squares. In making an antimacassar, &c., the above border might be too deep except for the ends. In such a case make a simple scallop worked round the article. BOOTS FOR INFANT. This very pretty style is equally suitable for wearing as the first sock with a leather shoe, or as a smart little booti- kin, for which the char- ming top particularly fits it. The model was quite a first size, and was carried out in white two-thread Lady Betty wool,andpaleblueknit- ting silk, worked with a rather fine ivorj' crochet hook. But it can be very easily enlarged if de- sired by using the same wool in four-thread, or single Berlin, and working with a hook a few sizes larger. Begin at the top, which is all in thewhitewool. Make a chain of 30 stitches, rather loosely, and join to the 1st stitch. Then begin the tufted pattern. Put the hook into the 2nd chain of the foun- dation, * pull the wool through, make 3 chain, rather loosely, and at the 3rd chain pull the wool also through the other loop on your hook ; I double crochet stitch into the same chain of the foundation. Miss 1 chain, and repeat from* all round, when you will have 15 tufts. 2nd row — make every tuft on the left hand of those in the previous row, and the double crochet on the right of the next tuft. Continue working in this stitch for 8 rows, which finishes the top. The rest is worked in stripes of white wool and blue silk, the stitch being single crochet, which is worked thus— put the hook into the part of the loop nearest your ist finger, and pull the wool through both the loops on the hook at once, so making a veiy short stitch. Every row is the same. For the leg work 5 stripes of the white wool and 5 stripes of the blue silk, the white consisting of 3 rows, and the blue of 2 rows. After the 5th blue stripe, work i row of white, then (still with the white) work 12 stitches only, backwards and forwards, for the heel. You should work the ist row thus— work 6 stitches, turn, and work 12 stitches, by which means you still keep in the centre of the back, the place where you changed the colours. Work 10 rows for the heel, then fold the little flap together inside out, and crochet it neatly together. Carry the wool back to the other end of the row, turn the flap back again, and pick up the stitches down the heel, just the same as in a stocking knitted on 4 pins, working them as you go on. Work the stitches across the front, and pick up those on the other side of the heel. You will then have about 36 stitches, but i or 2 more or less does not matter. Continue working round with the white, reducing the stitches by taking 2 together on each side of the front, till you have 30 stitches again. Work the stripes the same as the leg — 3 rows white, and 2 rows blue, for 10 stripes, taking care to change the colours at the same place as in the leg. "After the 5th blue stripe, work all in white for the toe. Work 6 rows, and in the 7th row take e\-ery 2nd and 3rd .^titches together. Then work 4 or 5 stitches only, put the 2 sides together and crochet them neatly together. For the tuft — take both wool and silk together, and wind them about 20 times over 2 fingers. Slip it off and tie it firmly in the centre. Clip the edges quite smooth, and sew the tuft to the centre of the t op. BOYS' SXJITS, ~ OVERCOATS, ULSTERS, &e. Illustrating; i6o various Suits for all Ages, with plain descriptions for cutting out and making up. Also all articles of Boys' Underclothing, Dressing GowTls, S:c. Of all Newsagents, or post free, alrf., from Mrs. Lbac«, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet St., London. THE FANCY WORK.BASKET, LADIES' LACE BOA. Very fashionable and useful, being warm as well as pretty, it can con- fidently be recom- mended. The model is black, but any colour can be chosen; white, if a cream shade, is particularly elegant. Materials required : — 12 balls of the best quality Peacock ice wool, and a fine bone crochet hook, No. 13, gauged by H. Walker's Patent Bell Gauge. The foundation of the boa is worked as follows, and is worked round and round — make 19 chain, miss 3 of the chain, and in the 4th chain stitch counting from the hook * work i double long treble, which is worked thus: wind the wool round the hook 3 times, then insert the hook into the stitch you wish to work the double long in and draw the wool through, there should be 6 loops on the - hook; draw the wool through 2 of theloops, again through 2 loops, again through 2 loops, and then through the last 2 loops on the hook; repeat from * till there are 15 double long stitches worked on the chain, then continue to work the double long stitches in rounds; work the 1st double long stitch of the 2nd round into the ist of the double long, thus forming a ring, and working round and round till the length required is worked, that is, half the length the boa is wished. Our model was a little more than two yards and a quarter long, and the first piece of the foundation was one yard and an eighth in length. Fasten off the wool. The lace is worked in rows on the foundation. Commence on the ist worked double long, working into each loop as a stitch, ist row—* i treble, i chain, repeat from * to end of the row, working as before round and round; finish the row with i treble. Fasten off the wool. 2nd row — I double over the ist i chain of ist row, * 5 chain, i double over the next i chain of ist row; repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool. 3rd row — i double over the ist 5 chain of the 2nd row, * 5 chain, l double over the next 5 chain of the 2nd row; repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool. 4th row — I double over the ist loop of 5 chain of the last row,* 5 chain, ** I double over the next 5 chain of the last row, 5 chain, repeat from ** 3 times more, 4 trebles over the next 5 chain of the last row; repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool. 5th row — * 1 double into the 1st stitch of the ist loop of 5 chain of the last row, 5 chain, i double over the next loop of 5 chain of the last row, 5 chain, i double over the next loop of 5 chain of the last row, 5 chain, i double over the next loop of 5 chain of the last row, 5 chain, l double into the last stitch of the next loop of 5 chain, 4 doubles into the 4 trebles of the last row; repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool. 6th row — * l double over the ist loop of 5 chain in the last row, 5 chain, i double over the next loop of 5 chain in the last row, 5 chain, i double over the next loop of S chain, 5 chain, i double over the next loop of 5 chain of the last j:ov\', I chain, 6 trebles with i chain between into the next 6 doubles of the last row, i chain; repeat from* to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool. 7th row— I double over the ist loop of 5 chain in the last row, * 5 chain, i double over the next loop of 5 chain in the last row, 5 chain, i double over the next loop of S chain in the last row, I double between each of the next 8 stitches of the last row, 114 ^W^ I double over next loop of 5 chain of the last row (there should be 9 doubles without any chain stitches between them); repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool. 8th row — i double, taking both loops of the stitch into the i double between the 2 loops of 5 chain of the last row, i chain, i long treble (taking up both loops of the stitch), worked thus (put the wool round the crochet- hook twice, insert the hook into the stitch you wish to work into, draw the wool through, there should be 4 loops on the hook, put the wool round the hook and draw it through 2 loops, put the wool round the hook and again draw it through 2 loops, put the wool round the hook and draw it through the remaining 2 loops on the hook) into the ist of the 9 doubles of the last row, i chain, i long treble worked into the same stitch as the last long treble was Enlarged Design of Lace. worked into, ** I chain, i long treble into the next double of the last row, repeat from ** 7 times more, i chain, i long treble into same stitch as the last long treble was worked into, i chain; there should be 11 long trebles with i chain between in every scallop; repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool. 9th row — I double over the 1st r chain of the last row, * 4 chain, i double over the next i chain of the last row; repeat from * 10 times more, i double over the next i chain, then repeat from the 1st * to the end of the row. Fasten off the wool. Crochet a second piece exactly the same and join the two pieces together, sewing them neatly with the ice wool at the ends the rows of lace were com- menced at. The lace would be a useful trimming for shawls. &c., as shown in our design. This can be easily done by working the 1st row on a length of chain instead of on the foundation of boa. To do this, work the ist row as follows : * i treble, I chain, miss i stitch of foundation chain, repeat from *. Our enlarged design will show this, then work as boa lace from the 2nd LADIE.S' WRAP SHAWL. This shawl is very easily made, and forms a comfortable wrap made in 4-thread fingering. It is also a suitable pattern for Shet- land wool, in which case 10 more rounds should be worked. It will take II ozs. of fingering or 6 ozs. of Shetland; a rather coarse hook should be used. The shawl is commenced in the centre. Make a chain of 6 and unite into a round, ist row — 6 chain (3 of these are to form a treble), 6 treble into loop, 3 chain, 6 treble into loop THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 3 chain, 6 treble into same, 3 chain, 5 treble into loop ; unite the 5th treble with the 3rd chain of the 6 you made to coinmence the row. 2nd row — 3 chain (to form a treble), 2 treble into 1st loop of 3 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble into same, 3 chain, 3 treble once more into same, i treble into centre of 6 trebles, * 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into next loop of 3 chain, i treble between next group of 6, and repeat from * twice more; join to ist treble made, i.e., 3 chain. 3rd row — * 3 treble (1st 1 formed by 3 chain), 3 chain, 3 treble into ist loop of 3 chain of last row, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into next loop, 1 treble over treble in last row that was worked between the comers ; repeat from * 3 times more, join into ist treble. 4th row — * 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into ist hole, i treble between the 2 groups of 3 ; repeat from * 3 times more. 5th row — same as 3rd, but repeat 7 times. 6th row — 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into 1st hole, I treble between groups in last row, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into next hole, i treble over treble; repeat all round. 7th row — 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into hole, i treble over treble ; repeat all round. 8th row — 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into hole, i treble over treble; repeat all round. 9th row — like the 3rd and 5th loth row — like the .6th. nth row — like the 7th. 12th row — same. 13th row — same. 14th row — same. 15th row — same. i6th row — same. 17th row — same. iSth row — like the 8th row. 19th row — like the 3rd. 20th row — like the 6th row. 21st to 26th rows — same as the 20th. 27th and last row — 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into hole, i treble over treble all round the shawl. SUNFLOWER PINCUSHION. Required, a small quantity of yellow and brown Andalusian wool and a fine bone crochet hook. For the petals, make 6 chain with the yellow wool. Make the chain, and in fact all the work, rather loosely ; join the chain in a ring, into which put 12 treble drawn up rather long, then i chain and 12 more treble, all into the ring, and break off the wool. Fold the petal, having the wrong side outwards and taking the i chain for the top, and sew it neatly to- gether in the middle longways. This completes I petal. About 12 will be required. For the centre of the flower, take the bro«Ti wool and make 10 chain, pick up the stitches as for tricot and work back. 2nd row— take up the 1st stitch as for tricot, and also the stitch behind the next, which would be taken for tricot, keeping both on the hook, and pull the wool through both, and continue this slitch throughout the work; increase i stitch at the beginning and end of each row till the work is large enough to cover your cushion, about 10 rows will probably be sufficient. Work 6 rows without increas- ing, and then decrease i stitch at the beginning and end of each row till you have 10 left ; sew this piece neatly over your cushion, and tack the petals round in their proper places; add a lining to make it neat at the back, with ribbons to hang the pincushion up. It is the wrong side of the brown work that is used for the right side of the cushion, that is, the side with the rows standing up, not the flat side. Answers to Correspondents. hi compliance with the request of numerous suhscriherify we Itave decided to open a column in which we will antficer any riuerien relating to Fancy Work, Such queries should he written clearly on one side of the paper only, and headed " Work-Basket," and should, reach us not later than the lith of the month to ensure reply in next issue. A nom de plume must he aflxed to each. Ally. — The design for Jubilee Competition need not be originaL Mrs. Howard, — Heels and toes are thickened by knitting with doable wooL YouKG Girl. — Purling and Tricoter are fully described in No. ], 2J ♦ <• » I On the Painting of various Articles for our Homes. Chapter IV. Fire Screens.— Splashers. In our last paper we endeavoured to give a few simple directions, which could be easily followed, for making at home a large folding screen, that would be useful, but at the same time ornamental ; in this chapter, however, we purpose to give our attention to standing fire screens and splashers. The frames for a small standing fire screen can be procured made in bamboo, rustic wood, or ebony, having the centre left vacant, to be filled up according to the taste of the owner. The centre of one square screen was filled with a square of silvered glass, on which was painted a branch of purple plums in transparent colours. The frame was of rustic wood, and the whole stood about three feet from the ground. But, perhaps, one of the prettiest and most eflfective is a small folding screen, consisting of three wings, the centre of each being filled with a painted mirror, and, for the benefit of our readers, we will give a detailed method of painting on such a screen the following design, viz. : crimson chrysmitheimim, ydlov) chryaantliemwn, and white foxglove. The mirror can, if liked, be bought separately, and cost about 2s. gd. each, and when painted ■can then be framed, but we consider it is much better and less expensive to buy the screen .with the glasses already fixed in it. Before commencing to paint, clean the glass thoroughly with turpentine, polishing it with a chamois leather or a soft linen cloth. The design having been correctly drawn on paper, should be traced on to the glass in the manner described in a former paper. This being done, the amateur can proceed with the painting, having placed the copy of the subject to be treated in a convenient position for observation. If the mirrors are to be painted separately they should be stood on a table easel, but, if not, the screen had better stand on a table, to enable the painter to reach it easily. A mahl stick ought to be used. It is hardly probable that a copy of the flowers can be obtained exactly suitable to the size of the mirror, so the drawing of the flowers will have to be adapted and arranged on paper from the copy, to the taste of the painter, and here let us observe that the flowers should appear as if growing from the base. The white foxglove had better fill the centre glass, the crimson and yellow chrysanthemums being on either side. The foxglove is a capital subject for a screen, as it looks well in a position near the ground. Commerce painting the white one already sketched on the glass, by mixing a grey with flake ivhite, permane^it blue, and brown madder. This grey should be made rather thin, with the medium spoken of in former papers, and must be put on all over the flower, using a good sized brush. Some pure flake white should be put on where the brightest light is to be seen, then the brush can be drawn very lightly down the shadow side ; this will form a reflected light close to the edge of the flower. The half lights, shadows, and lights should be if possible, copied from nature, but if this is not possible, recourse must be had to a painted copy. The colouring of the bud is the same as the flower, except that a very small quantity of pale chrome must be mixed with the white to give the bud a yellow tinge, ■the tops of the younger buds being quite a soft green. Pale chrome, flake vjhite, permanent blue, makes the light green. The calyces are a grey blue green, use Antti'erp blue, flake white, and lemon yelloio. The leaves of the foxglove are large and somewhat downy in appear- ance, the under side being very much lighter in colour. The principal veins are dark and deepset. The under side of the leaf is a pale grey green. The shadow is composed of raw sienna, Antwerp blue, and burnt sienna, and is put on in uneven little dabs, making them less dense towards the edge of the leaf. The lights, which should be a mixture of emerald green, a touch of vermilion, and flake white, are put on where the shadows end. The light veins are painted in with a fine brush, and quite vanish as they near the edge and point of the leaf A mixture of emerald green, flake white, and JV'aples yellow should be used for these veins. For the shadow colour of the upper side of the leaf, raw sienna, Antwerp blue, and burnt sienna is used. The veins are rather darker. Beep chrome, A niwerp blue, and a small quantity of lemon yellow mixed, is the colour for the lights. The high lights area light grey, which is made \\\l\\ pirrmaneni bine, pale Vol. IL-No. 19. , chrome, a very little crinison lake, 3.ndjlcile white. The leaf becomes ^■,much lighter green as it nears the part that joins it to the stem. Now the yellow chrysanthemums need our attention. For the shadows of the flower, a mixture of ivory black and pcole chrome is put on with a brush of medium size all over the shape drawn, commencing at the end of each petal, and drawing the brush towards the centre. Then a clean brush should be filled withjUake white and pale chrome mixed, and this put on where the lights are to be seen. After this a few of the brightest lights can be put in with pure flake white. For the calyx a green made of ravj sienna and Antwerp blue is used. This must be put on in round dabs, and with a little brown madder in a liner, a tiny line should be made round each dab, which forms the shadow. A light green composed of Antwerp blue, ptale chrome and flaJce white is to be painted over these dabs, care being taken to soften and blend this light green into the shadow colour. The stems are a brownish green. The leaves are of a soft green colour, pale bluish grey green on the underneath. For the front of the leaf the local colour is made of permanent blue, deep chrome and a little fl/.die vjhite. A mixture of burnt sienna, chrome and Anticerp bhie is the shadow colour, with which the entire leaf should be painted, drawing the brush across the leaf from the centre vein, and taking the brush off" sharply at each serration. Then the lighter colour mentioned as local must be put on for the lights. For the high lights, fluke white, permanent blue and a touch of vermilion is mixed. For the shadows of the back of the leaf a colour made of raw sienna and permanent blue is used. For the lights permanent blus, emerald green, lemon yellow, and a large quantity of flake white should be mixed. The principal veins are put in with a very hght green. The above colouring of the leaves is the same for the crimson as for the yellow chrysanthemums. For the deep crimson the same method described for the colouring of the yellow is adopted, but of course using different colours, the local colour being a mixture of burnt sienna and crimson lake. For the shadows crimson lake and Vandyke broion, a touch of vermilion and crimson lake for the lights, and flake white mixed with the two last colours for the high lights. The paints, medium, brushes, &c., needed for this style of painting having been mentioned in former papers, need not be described here. Butterflies might be added to this screen with good effect, but on no account must the glass be crowded, too little being better than too much. These folding screens are sometimes filled with pieces of china ready prepared for painting, but they are much more expensive than glass, and, of course, none but those who understand china painting thoroughly would under- take such a work, although when well done the screen foiins a very handsome ornamental piece of furniture to a room. Then, again, the frame can be bought and the centre filled with tapestry painting or American cloth, which latter can be bought in many charming shades. Those who cannot paint, or, perhaps, only a very little might follow out the suggestion given in the last chapter regarding scraps. Also a very nice screen can be made with Christmas and other cards pasted on linen and then varnished. A suitable design for a square fire screen, the centre being filled up with a mirror, would be water lilies and swallows, which should be painted black with white breasts, or if flowers are preferred, apple blossom looks very effective. Splashers Are best made out of American cloth, which is veiy wide, and half a yard will make a good sized one. The cloth can be bought at IS. 3d. a yard, so for 7^d. any lady of taste and aptitude having leisure at her disposal can furnish her bedroom with pretty and effective wall preservers. The cloth must be stretched on a board, but if a large enough one is not forthcoming, a good plan is to pin it against the wall. It is rather awkward to paint it while in that position, but it can be done. The design can be drawn in pencil on the cloth, which can be had in various colours, a pale buff", having painted on it pink and crimson chrysanthemums in several shades, looked ver>' effective. They were treated as if growing from the base. Another pretty design on blue cloth was water and flamingoes, with various rushes, &c., growing out of the water. Water lilies, bulrushes, and swallows skimming across the water look very well. The ordinary oil paints (mixed with meguilp) are used in painting American , 117 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. cloth. The foundation colour should be mixed with flake white, to make the colour opaque. While the paint is wet a mistake can easily be rubbed off with a soft rag. Hog hair brushes are not so good as sable for painting on this cloth. When the splasher is finished it can be edged with ornamental gimp and the corners rounded off. {To he continued.) LACE-MAKING. In these days of steam and machinery lace - making s eem s quite forgotten, or ladies consider it waste of time to thus employ them- selves. Certainly lace-making in the true acceptance of theterm is tedious, and to work it on a pillow requires experience ; but very pretty lace can be made with , , , , , . - the braid laces sold for the purpose, which is quickly executed. Our example IS very simple, being made with point lace braid, and the ovals filled up with twisted bars, and a dot farmed by passing the thread over and under the bars before the last twist is made, which will bring the needle through the bottom of the oval, thus preventing breaking the cotton in the centre after the dot is made. Ladies with a knowledge of the different lace stitches may fill in each oval differently, when it looks equal to real old lace. Our illustration was used to trim a cuff for wearing with a jersey, which, unless the arms are pretty plump, cannot be said to be very becoming to the wrist. A band about two inches wide of broche velvet was edged with an inch satin ribbon, to which the lace was sevyn rather full ; loops of satin ribbon were arranged as seen in illustration. After working the lace, dipping it in coffee, or water tinted with "tinting powder" sold for the purpose, gives it the desired old appearance,' and causes it to look clean longer. The cuffs may be made dressy for evening wear by outlining the broche with gold or silver thread or beads. Grey with steel beads and ruby satin would make a finish to an otherwise plain grey dress, a band of velvet edged with smoke-coloured pearls and a fall of lace ; indeed, according to the dress, many pretty finishes for the sleeves can be made. To take the pattern, of which our example is the correct width, place a plain piece of paper over it and correctly trace the oudines, then tack the tissue paper on to a piece of pink glazed calico, and tack the braid over the pattern. Then proceed to fill in the ovals. When finished, cut away the tacking threads at the back. The bars which join the pattern to the straight pieces of braid are worked in button-hole stitch over three or four strands of Mecklenburg thread, which is used for the centres. Now Ready, price 2d. WASHING AND LAUNDRY CHECK-BOOK By Mrs. LEACH.— ContaiDg How to Wash, Starch and Irou, with vahinble Recipes for Cleaning, Dyfing, As., and printed Laundry Checks for six months Of all Newsvendors. Price 2d,, or post free, three stamps, from B. S. Cartwrioht, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.G. 118 Art Needlework. Fig. I. Many ladies cannot spare the time for elaborate pieces of fancy work to improve the appearance of their rooms, therefore they generally hail with delight anything of the description capable of being done quickly. A sofa pillow, for example, is both useful and ornamental. A simple yet effective one can be made by either vvorking stars, which take but a short time to execute, formed of six points, with violet, yellow, green and red crewels on a dark strip of brown velvet, measuring three inches in width, and a strip of green cloth, serge or velvet, according to the sum you wish to expend upon it, between, measuring seven inches across. To form the square you require a strip in the centre from corner to corner, measuring twenty-six inches in length, then a strip of plain material twenty-five inches long one side and twelve and a half the other, which joins to your worked strip measuring that number of inches, you then join another piece of plain, which forms the other corner, and measures ten and a half inches the side which is sewn to the ^^«.NV Fig. 2. worked strip, the other is cut into a point for the corner. A still quicker mode is to use tapestry strips instead of working a pat- tern. This is very cheap and looks effective, the gold threads running through the material giving it an attractive and Orien- tal appearance most pleasing. The whole square thus formed must be finished off with a bright looking cord, and if the pillow is required to be very large a full border of deep cardinal satin or THE I'A^^Cl' WORK-.BA{sK.Jj;i, green a shade or two darker than the plain material greatly adds to the beauty. We know an illustration of an article often conveys a better idea of the effect likely to be produced than lines of expla- nation, therefore Fig. i will help to carry out the design. Fig. 2 can be employed for a variety of things, useful and ornamental. You require three shades of cardinal silk or crewel for the tulips, and three of sage-green for the leaves and branches. One skein of a bronze brown will be required for a few stitches here and there in the latter. The whole is worked in simple long stitch across from the centre of each leaf We do not think there will be any difficulty in copying the pattern, but any question we shall be pleased to answer. It would be very pretty worked in silks on black satin for a gentleman's note case or tobacco pouch, or two sprays would look charming on a cosy. Bulgarian work, or toile-cross, is likely to rival crewel work, for it is so quickly done. When diamonds, squares, &c., of satin are placed on the cloth it is still more effective. The material is, as a rule, bought ready perforated, but there is no reason why it cannot be done with a stiletto, pierced at intervals of not less than one-eighth of an inch. We gave some patterns for working this in a previous number. The long back stitch is gene- rally used, but feather-stitch, herring-bone, and cross-stitch often aire introduced. Squares of cloth thus perforated would make a lovely quilt, say of green and red, or green surrounded with strips of red, violet and black worked in the centre with different coloured crewels, or it would make a sofa blanket. Fringe of the various colours employed should complete the edge, or if could be cut in Vandykes. A half yard of cloth in the different colours would be ample, and scraps of wool and silk could be advantageously used up. Another pretty quilt, although it does not come really under the heading of "Art Needlework," is composed of two widths of Paisley pattern cretonne, with a star of Turkey red in the centre and a border of the same about eighteen inches deep all round it, the edge finished with, a ball fringe. Line with sateen for the summer, but coarse red serge, flannel, or a cheap coloured blanket answers admirably. The Australian striped blankets are very useful for the purpose. Plain Turkey red with squares of lace arranged alternately over it, so that you have a square of red and a square of lace, with the scarlet showing through, and a lace border all round, makes a useful and pretty quilt for summer. An exceedingly handsome mantel-board valance is composed of light blue cloth or velveteen, with leaves cut out in sage-green cloth appliqued on with filoselle of a lighter and darker shade. The silk was caught down at regular intervals with a fine thread the same colour. The valance was outlined with a thick cord, in which a deep cardinal was introduced, a little of which shade appeared in some of the leaves. It was very effective. A good plan is to procure a natural leaf— a grape-vine leaf is graceful — and cut the cloth from it, different sizes, of course, and then stick them on to your foundation with gum. The tendrils must be of silk, sewn down in the same way as the veins of the leaves. ON USING UP THE SCRAPS. By scraps we mean not only the good pieces of material, small or large, left over from different kinds of work, but the very smallest ends of everything, from the work-table and elsewhere. Good scraps are carefully put into the rag-bag or depository for future mending days, but many are the trifles condemned to the fire or waste basket, as too tiny or ugly to be ever thought of again. Amongst the smallest will be found the ends of wools, crewels, silks and ravellings of every kind. A separate box or bag should always be kept for these, and if you are likely to get a large accu- mulation, the best way of utilising them is to keep them till you have sufficient to stuff a sofa cushion or pillow, or to make a duvet, for which purpose they are excellent, being both light and warm. In smaller quantities the ravellings come in very usefully for filling pincushions instead of bran, and it is surprising what a supply will be needed for even an ordinary sized pincushion. For the latter article, or, indeed, for your sofa cushion also, you may have previously made the case out of odd pieces of silk, satin or velvet, in one of the many pretty patchwork or crazy designs now so well known. The simple square is as good a pattern as any for small pieces, especially if every other square is composed of velvet, when a very rich effect is obtained at the expense of but little trouble. This pattern requiring no particular skill in arrangement is very suitable for work at odd times, and when completed can easily be enriched by working all across the divisions with feather- stitch or chain stitch in gold silk, or every row in a different colour, if you have odd crewel silks or filoselles to use up, and the squares may be further ornamented with dots in the same silks. The tassels for the comer of the cushion may be composed of short lengths of silks, the greater the variety of colour the more suit- able for this kind of work. They must be firmly tied near the top (the lengths being doubled) and the edges clipped quite straight. As to the odd crewels which are sure to be left over from any lengthy piece of work, you can (old them up, several together, till they measure about an inch long, when you must fasten them firmly round the centre, trim the edges close and then they will form very pretty tufts for the corners of fancy pincushions, work-bags, kettle- holders and other trifles. And speaking of kettleholders, it may be mentioned that these can be prettily made out of a piece of canvas worked all over with crewels instead of Berlin wools. Fill the needle with as many crewels as it will hold, and work in the ordinary cross-stitch. The best plan is not to follow any particular pattern, but to finish the needleful of one colour, and then take another, working straight on or in patches, by which means you will obtain a very handsome effect in the Turkish style. This plan is very good for using up a quantity of crewels, and several squares joined together would make a nice rug. Odds and ends of cloth should always be preserved for the sake of making pen- wipers, the small pieces being cut into circles, the edges pinked and several laid one on top of the other, not necessarily all of the same size, but the smallest at the top, when the underneath ones should be of different colours, and the whole fastened together by a fancy button sewn in the centre of the top. Pieces of American leather may be used for mats or work-cases. Circular is the best shape for mats, and a row of white china buttons should be firmly sewn on round the edge with smart coloured cotton or silk. A long narrow shaped remnant will serve for a work-case or pocket, either the ordinary envelope shape, or the rolling up kind, which should be filled with leaves for needles, divisions for bodkin, darning materials, &c. Tailors' books, when the patterns have been removed, are excellent filled with Christmas cards or bright pictures of any kind, making scrap-books of a convenient shape for amusing children in bed. The cloth patterns out of the books may be made into penwipers in the following manner. Pink out three sides, two being short and one long, and roll up the cloth tightly the long way, bringing the pinked edge outside, which you must sew down firmly ; roll up two more patterns in the same way, then place the three little rolls close together, one above the other two, and tie ribbons or any gay braid round the whole, in two places, tying it in a bow and putting a tew stitches at the bow to keep it in place. This pattern is also pretty carried out in red and blue flannel. Amongst the various other articles usually cast away as worthless will be found old stockings, but these generally have the leg still good when the foot is quite worn out. The top part of the leg will then make capital stays for children. They should be lined with flannel or unbleached calico, neatly bound, and, if liked, rows of feather stitching added at intervals. Add shoulder straps and strings or buttons to fasten the back. Another way of using old stocking legs is to make them into children's jerseys, two being required for each, and the ankles forming the sleeves. Here it may be mentioned that our poorer neighbours are very glad to receive old stockings, as they use the good unworn parts of the leg to re-foot the old ones, thus making a good stocking far better than the cheap common ones, which are all they can afford, and which are so soon trodden out. Old gloves, too, have, as a rule, the back of the hand and the long wrists in good condition, and natty people will turn these into neat shoes or boots for babies, adding lining and binding all round. With a good paper pattern this is not difficult to manage. Large pieces of cardboard, such as the covers of boxes in which dresses or millinery have been sent home, are useful for mounting loose pictures for the nursery or hospital, or cut into suitable size and covered with red twill make folding albums for cards. When covered with silk or satin and tied with pretty ribbons they form a handsome ornament for the drawing-room, being filled with cabinet photographs. Flat pincushions of any shape, square, round, heart, fan, &c., may be made with the smaller pieces of card. TOSS PILLOWS. So called because they can easily be thrown or tossed about by a weakly person. In places where " prepared pine " is obtainable, or hops, either is nice to stuff them, but flocks are very excellent, and would, perhaps, be preferred by many. Flocks are always THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. better than feathers for the head, being cooler, and a really good quality is very soft and not expensive. Materials : — In addition to the stuffing, calico to make a bag ten inches wide by fifteen inches long when made up, silk, sateen, or any convenient materials, velvet or otherwise, to cover the bag, and cord to edge round the joins. Washing covers can be used if liked. For a baby, washing covers trimmed with lace are very pretty. These pillows can be made expensive or cheap, as means and taste permit. The model was covered with India silk, a band of plush across the top to trim it, and the silk embroidered in outline with an appropriate design and motto, such as " Pine no more, but rest thee here," in outline, with a small fir branch and cone or two. A little plush corner with a daisy thereon, or heartsease, is pretty and easy to make. Instruc- tions are hardly needed, as the pillow is so simple. Make your calico bag, stuff it not too full to be soft, then cover it with what- ever you teve planned,:edge with the cord or lace, and it is complete. PINAFORE MADE OF THREE HANDKERCHIEFS. This pattern is both charming and inexpensive, being made of the China grass handkerchiefs, which can be procured at almost any linendrapers for about ijd. each. They are white with coloured borders, either one broad stripe or a number of small ones close together. The broad pink stripe is, perhaps, the prettiest. Materials required : — 3 handkerchiefs, 4 yards of narrow lace edging, some pink washing silk, and 3 tiny pearl buttons. One complete hand- kerchief forms the front of the pinafore. Cut one side off each of the other 2 handkerchiefs thus— fold the border back, and cut off with it a little more than the width of the border. You will then have with the border an extra piece, which is to form a lining to the border. Cut one side off the third handkerchief in the same way. These 2 pieces are to form the shoulder straps and sashes presently. 120 Now join the two cut handkerchiefs to the one complete. The raw edges you have just cut are to be hemmed (forming the backs of the pinafore), and then the sides opposite those just hemmed must be sewn to the front handkerchief, one on each side, but leave about 3 inches unsewn, to form part of the armhole. Now take the 2 border pieces, and cut off 2 thirds from each. The smaller are for the shoulder straps, the others for the sashes. Take the shoulder pieces and first folding back the white part for a lining, sew one end on to the front handkerchief (where you left 3 inches unsewn for the arm- hole), and the other end on to the back handkerchief. Join on the other shoulder piece the same. You must now make the gatherings at the centre of the neck and back. For the back, begin the gathering about 6 inches from the armhole, and run the thread just under the hem to the end, drawing it up close. Make a second gathering about an inch lower down, that will be at the other end of the pink stripe. Gather the other back the same, and put similar rows of gatherings in the front of the neck and also at the waist. Add feather stitching right across the front and 2 backs, including the gatherings, and also across the second rows of gatherings, and those at the waist. Sew on the narrow lace edging rather full, all round the neck and armholes, and put it on straight round the 2 sashes, which are then to be sewn on close to the waist gatherings. Add 2 buttons and loops to fasten the back of the pinafore, put on at the gatherings, and a third button and buttonhole on the sashes. How to Make Wool Flowers. In making wool flowers every point in the flower cannot be observed ; for instance, the blending of colours and the exact making of the seeds. The wool requires to be worked on wire, or on a mesh. The following method of making them on wire can also be copied with floss silk or crewel wool ; but we will explain a few in Berlin wool, as they are more easy and quick to make than any other. As each leaf or petal is made separately, a large number can be made at odd times ; and when you have an hour or two to spare, you can mount them into flowers. Wool flowers, like everything else, require practice in order to excel. By looking at a real flower you will be able to see how it is put together for yourself. To begin we had better practice on the green leaves. Leaves can be made in three ways — on wire, knitted or crochet. We will take it for granted that all who read this paper know how to crochet or knit. Before we explain those on wire, we will give you a few patterns in crochet ; knitted ones we do not approve of, as they are apt to curl up. For lily and other long leaves, crochet will be found by far the best. Crochet Leaves. Make a chain the length you require the leaf to be, work into this double crochet to the end. 2nd row — turn, double crochet, taking only the back stitch, increase i at the end. Do every row the same, till the leaf is half the width you intend it to be, then decrease i at the same end you increased, to make your leaf pointed at the top. The last row, which you must begin at the bottom, double crochet to the last but i, slip stitch round the point and down the other side to the end ; this will make a nice even edge all round, making both edges alike. Pointed Leaf. Make 8 chain stitches, turn, I double crochet into the 2nd; into the 3rd chain, work 2 treble, i long treble, 2 treble; into the 4th, i double crochet ; into the 5th, 2 I treble, i long treble, 2 treble ; into I the 6th, I double; into the 7th, 2 treble, l long treble, 2 treble; into the 8th, I double crochet; slip stitch into the ist to join, make 3 chain for the stem. For a variety a • round point can be made by making all 5 trebles the same size. Geranium Leaf. Materials — Two shades of green wool ; olive and sunny green is the best. Make a chain of 4 and join ; i chain, 10 trebles into the hole ; turn, i chain, i treble into the top of the ist treble, 2 trebles into the 2nd, i treble into the 3rd, 2 trebles into the 4th, continue to the end. 3rd row— fasten on your dark olive green at the beginning of the previous row, 2 double crochets into the 1st, 2 double crochets into the 2nd, 2 trebles into the 3rd, I treble into the 4th, 2 trebles into the 5th, I long treble into the 6th, 2 long trebles into the 7th Fig. I. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Fig. 2. and 8th, i long treble into the gth, 2 long trebles into the loth and nth, I long and i ordinary treble into the 12th, 2 trebles into the 13th, I treble into the 14th, 2 trebles into the 15th, 2 double crochets into i6th, 2 double crochets into 17th, fasten off. This forms what most people call the horseshoe. Fasten on the light green wool joining the trebles of the ist row together ; if your leaf is to have a wire stalk, it should be fastened on here, not in the centre, as you will see by looking at a real leaf ; the centre should be pushed together by the thumb. Commence the 4th row — i double crochet into the chain stitch of the 2nd row, 2 double crochets into the ist of the row which forms the horseshoe, 2 double crochets into 2nd, slip- stitch into the 3rd, 2 double crochets into the 4th, 2 treble into the Sth, I double crochet into the 6th, continue working 2 treble into i stitch and i double crochet in between till you reach the 3rd from the end ; 2 double crochets, slip stitch into the next, 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets down the side, or into the chain of the 2nd row ; this forms a crinkled edge similar to that of a real leaf. These leaves shquld be crocheted with a small bone hook. Leaves on Wire. Materials — Green Berlin wool, single and ribbon wire ; in making all wool or silk flowers use covered wire. Cut up between the wires and draw them out, cut several pieces, and tivist one to the size and shape of each sized leaf you want, then cut the number of pieces you think you will require and shape them. Fig. i shows the shape for rose leaves, convolvulus and fuchsia leaves. You must use your own opinion about the size. To commence, we will cut a piece of wire 3 inches long, make the point with your thumb nail exactly in the centre, twist the 2 ends together, and shape it with your fingers, see fig. 3 ; thread a darning needle with wool (a darning needle is better than a blunt wool needle). Fig 3. hold your wire shape with the forefinger and thumb of your left hand, twist the end of wool round the twisted piece at the bottom of the leaf, secure it firmly, bring the wool to the top of point, thread the needle behind the wire and through the wool to keep it in its place, see Fig. 4. You have now drawn your needle out towards you ; now place it at the back of the wire and in front of the Wool which forms the centre, draw it out, and bring it back again, over the wire and under the wool this time ; work backwards and forwards till your wire is all covered in ; draw your wool close, but not tight, or your wire will get out of shape, fasten on a bit of wire for the stalk, and wind the wool nice and evenly round it. For rose leaves three of these will be required on one stalk ; convolvulus leaves should be larger. Agood imitation of fern leaves and maidenhair can be made on wire. The fern leaf is composed of two sets of leaflets corresponding on each side ; make each of these separately ; each row should be a trifle wider and longer than the one above it. Bend all your wires first, and then take a piece of wool and fasten it at the end, and then bring it to the top, the same as the other Fig. i leaves, and work in the same way; when all are finished lay them side by side in proper order. Now take a long piece of wire, fasten the top leaflet and cover the piece of wire with green wool, now fasten on this all the other leaflets, covering the ends of wire evenly with wool. These look very pretty made of three or four shades of green, the light at the top, gradually getting darker towards the bottom or wide part. Maidenhair fern looks too heavy made of Berlin wool, a finer wire should be used for this, and, worked with crewel wool or floss silk, will produce the same effect among the Berlin leaves as real maidenhair fern does among leaves of a different kind. Geraniums. We will only describe a few flowers, as they are nearly all made in the same way, the only difference being the shape of the petals and the mounting. Geraniums have five petals, two of them are smaller than the other three, but in wool it is as well to make them all the same size. Cut thirty pieces of wire and bend them to the shape, be careful and have them as exact as possible in size and shape (Fig. 5), place your finger in the centre of the wire and twist both ends together, proceed in the same way as f^r leaves on wire (see Fig. 6) having either white, pink or scarlet wool. When you have covered them all with wool, meunt them thus : take five pieces and tie them all together with strong cotton, tie a small piece of wire on also for thei little stalk, and cover all the ends and stalk with I Fig. 5. green wool, now bend them outwards till they resemble a three-quarter blown flower, they look much better like this than full blown. Do not attempt to put the little seed in the centre ; your flower will look better without it. When you have made a quantity of these arrange them in bunches ; six will make the best bunch ; tie them all together, and then cut a length of ribbon *ig.6. wire without separating the wires for the thick stalk ; cover all the ends and stalks with green wool. Fuchsias. There are different shades in these. We will suppose you are going to make one with a white bell and red outer cover. First make the seeds. Let us tell you first never to buy artificial seeds, always make your own of either wool or silk ; cut several pieces of wire and make a ^"nall dent at one end (see Fig. 8), twist a piece of red wool round the dent two or three times, bend it close and twist the wool evenly down as though you were covering a stalk; four or five of these will be re- quired ; tie them together in a bunch on a piece of wire which is to form the stalk. Now make the bell ; the petals for these are made and shaped the same as the geraniums (Fig. 9) ; make four of these with white wool, arrange them evenly round the bunch of seeds, now make the outer cover. Fig. 7. Shape your wire as Fig. 10 ; twist your red wool round the end, and bring it to the point in the same way as for other leaves ; you can either work them in the same way, or thus : place your needle at the back of the wire and in front of the wool, turn back in front of the wire and back of the wool; this secures the wool firmly at the point, now twist the wool round and round the wire from side to side till you reach the bottom ; this makes a smooth leaf, and is more quickly done, but be very careful to do it lightly and evenly, and not tight, or your wire will Fig. 9. ggf Qyf Qf shape. When done tie them all round the bell, cover all the ends closely with red wool, cover the stalk with green. If your fuchsia is to be three-quarter blown leave it as it is ; if full blown, curl each leaf over your finger. For a bud, make four leaves the shape of Fig. 10, very small, work with red wool, twist a piece of white wool on the end of the wire stalk and tie them closely round, bend them as close as possible at the top, but do not let them flap over each other ; cover the ends with red wool, the stalk with green. Lilies. Fig 10. Make the five seeds in the centre exactly the same as the fuchsia seeds, with pale yellow wool ; the long one make twice the length ; make this of vei-y light sunny green and curl it round your finger ; tie them all together. Now make the petals ; there are six of these ; 121 a ^T Fig. 8. THE FANCV WORK.BASKm ^hey are made the same as other petals ; tie them when done round the seeds, and cover the stalk with green wool. Bluebells. These are round ; but little difficulty will be found in making them on wire. To make a spray, make three buds and three or four full blown flowers. Make the buds first; bend three pieces of wire the size and shape of Fig 1 1 ; take a piece of blue wool and fasten it to the end, bring it to the top and wind it round and round in the same way as ex- plained for fuchsias, tie all three closely together on a piece of wire for the stalk, bend them close at the top, cover the stalk with green wool. For the full blown ones proceed in the same way, making your wires exactly the same shape a trifle larger; you will require five of these. When worked. Fig II ^^'^^ them slightly over your finger, tie them together so "that they form a perfect round bell; they must not flap over each other a bit; when they are tied together and the stalks covered, bend the point of each one slightly outward. When you have succeeded in making these you will be able to make any other kind of flowers on wire. The seeds for such flowers as dog roses and violets should be made thus : tie a bunch of wool the colour you require the seeds to be on a piece of wire to form a small mop, cut them all even and smooth, then tie your petals round this. Convolvuluses. These are not made on wire but on a card. To make a small one, cut a round piece of card two inches wide, cut six notches at even distances round the card, make a small hole in the centre, thread a darning or wool needle with a long length of wool ; they are usually made in two colours, white in the centre, with red, pink, or blue edges; if it is to be a coloured edge ; thread your needle with coloured wool, thread your needle Fig. 12. through the hole in the centre of the card ; hold the end of wool at the back, place the wool in one notch, bring it through the next, put the needle through the centre hole, twist the wool round your finger to prevent it coming through, put the needle back through the hole, place the wool through the next notch and through the next, put the needle back through the hole, twist the wool round your finger again, put the needle back and the wool through the next two the same ; fasten the ends and loops off your finger tightly together at the back ; proceed to work round and round with white wool, work backwards, place the needle at the right side towards you of the strand of wool, and bring it out at the left, work very closely so that the coloured frame cannot be seen ; when you have worked three parts, join the coloured wool, make a knot and draw the needle through one of the strands of wool which form the frame, and continue working round, keep the knot at the back, work in as much as you can, break away the card, and fasten a piece of wire for the stalk. Roses. Materials : single Berlin wool, rib- bon wire, a long darningneedleand a card, any old post or correspondence ^ card will do. Draw your wire out in single pieces the length you require for the stalks; take a piece of wool and twist it round your finger a suffi- cient number of Y ^ times to form a ■ ^' bunch of small loops; tie them on the end of the wire with s rong cotton; now I 122 proceed to make the leaves of the rose. You will require three or fouu different sizes according to the size rose you want to make, the small ones for the centre, and the large ones for the outside ; thread your darning needle with a long length of wool, thread your needle through the centre of the card about three-quarters of an inch ; take one end of the wool and twist it round under both sides of the needle, as seen in Fig. 13, keeping it in place with the forefinger and thumb of the left hand; when large enough, draw the needle out (still keeping your thumb on the wool), draw the needle with the end of wool that has remained threaded throughall the strands of wool, drawing the wool closely, it will then be the shape of a rose leaf, Fig. 14. Now tie them all on the stem by the little pieces of wool at the bottom of each leaf; you will no doubt find it troublesome to keep the leaves in their places ; but it is easily done by pinning them separately in their places, and then taking a long needle threaded with the same coloured cotton as your wool, and drawing it lightly through the centre of the leaves from one to the other so as not Fig. 14. to be perceived. The little calyx or pointed green leaves at the back of the rose must be made next ; take a single piece of wire and shape it ; work with green wool as though you were making a leaf on wire ; you will require four or five of these, place them at the back of the rose evenly and tie them firmly, cover all the ends in nicely with green wool, and cover the stalk. To make moss roses, proceed in exactly the same way with white Berlin wool ; a bunch of dried or dyed moss can be bought at almost any fancy shop ; pick the longest pieces out and neatly gum them round the rose ; do not make the calyx, but tie a bunch of small pieces of moss in its place ; cover all the ends and stalks with green wool. Daisies. Daisies can be made thus : cut two pieces of thin card the size of a penny for large ones, the size of a halfpenny for small ones ; cut a small hole an eighth of an inch across in the centre, place both pieces of card together, take a needle threaded double with white Berlin wool, and work evenly round once, not too close. If you wish the daisy to have a wire stalk, take a piece of wire and tie a bunch of pale yellow wool on it, and cut it evenly to resemble the centre of a daisy ; place the wire through the hole in proper order, take a sharp pair of scissors and cut the wool all round between the two pieces of card, take a piece of strong cotton, place it between the two pieces of card and tie tightly, break away the card, tie four small loops of green wool at the back of the daisy and cover the stalk with green wool. Daisies seldom require a stalk, as they are usually sewn among moss. For daisies that require to droop, take a piece of yellow wool and twist it a number of times round your finger, sew or tie it well in a bunch with green wool, pull it a little way through the hole in the centre of the cards which you have already worked round with white wool, secure it firmly and cut the top even, cut the white wool between the cards the same as before, and tie tightly. We need not explain the way to make daisy fringe — it has been described so many times — except to say that the shaded greens look the best among the flowers. WHAT WOOL FLOWERS CAN BE USED FOR. Many people think that wool flowers are only to be placed under glass-shades foromaments ; but they can also be used for ornamenting fancy^baskets tea-cosies, lamp-mats, &c., they make a good show and sell well at bazaars. For instance, a small work-basket lined with white sateen, and a bunch of white or coloured geraniums with the crochet leaves tied at each end of the handle, looks very pretty ; or a basket with a flat lid could be covered thickly with daisy fringe, or dried moss gummed on, and daisies placed here and there among it, or a bunch of flowers neatly arranged in the centre. A tea-cosy crocheted with green wool, with a bunch of different coloured roses at the top, or large white lilies with fuchsias drooping, looks very elegant. Babies' hoods crocheted can be ornamented with daisies ; a very pretty one could be made in point de neige THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. with white wool and trimmed with light blue satin ribbon, with a bunch of daisies, the outer edge of pale blue to match the ribbon, and the centres of yellow ; these are useful and sell well at bazaars. Elegant mats are made thus : cut 2 pieces of cardboard the size you require, either square, round, or oval, cover one piece with green cloth or any material you like, gum it over the edge nicely, tack a piece of plush or velvet in the centre of the other piece, take a piece of wadding and make a sort of mount all round the top piece, cover this with green stuff, sew the edges in neatly, now cover this with daisy fringe made of shaded greens, have a needle and strong cotton, sew the first thread to the outer edge of the card- board, now lay the fringe lightly over the covered mount and sew in the centre, keep bringing the fringe backwards and forwards till the mount is covered ; if it should not look thick enough go over it again. Now sew either white daisies or any flowers you like among the so-called moss, when this is finished sew the covered piece of cardboard all round the t6ge to form the bottom. fS*«, VASE FOR PAMPAS GRASS. A good imitation of the drainpipe-like vases now used for arrangements of teasels, bulrushes, pampas and other grass may be made of inexpensive printed cambric or cretonne and cardboard. If a good "all-overish" pattern of cretonne be chosen of a pretty porcelain blue colour, mixed with a fair proportion of white, these novel fancies will, when arranged in a dark corner of a drawing- room or staircase, never give rise to any doubt as to their being of any material other than blue china. The drainpipe should be cylindrical in shape, and should measure about eighteen inches in height without the stand, and seven inches across. To make it : cut a piece of cardboard measuring eighteen inches in depth and twenty-two inches in width. Join it down the sides by laying the two edges together and glueing a strip of stout paper over the join, both on the wrong side and on the right. Cut a circle of card that will fit the pipe-shaped cardboard foundation after it has been joined; this circle will require a measurement of about seven inches across. Cover it on one side with the printed cambric or cretonne that was chosen for the outside of the jar, and cover the other side with plain white cambric. To cover the cardboard pipe, cut a piece of cretonne twenty inches deep and twenty-three inches wide, stitch it neatly down the sides, allowing rather less than half an inch for the seam, then open out the seam so that it sets quite flat. Turn the material right side outermost, slip it over the cardboard shape, leaving an inch beyond the card at each end. Turn over this inch of material neatly and evenly into the inside of the jar, securing it in place with a little glue laid just along the edges. Set it aside to dry, and in the meantime prepare a similar piece for the inside of the jar, turning in the raw edges at the top and bottom. When the glue on the other part of the jar is quite dry slip the lining in, see that it lies perfectly smooth and tight, sew it at both top and bottom edges of the jar with very tiny stitches. Finally, sew this long narrow portion to the circle of card already prepared, and which is intended as the bottom of the jar. Some people, no doubt, would find it easier to glue or gum in the lining, but the disadvan- tage of this plan is that, after a time, the mucilage that is used is apt to discolour the lining. Next comes the only difficulty of the whole matter, and that is how to arrange a stand on which to raise the vase from the floor. Such ornaments are usually finished off with a round flat stand about an inch high, which spreads out quite ' at the base, and diminishes at the top to the size of the china cylinder. The best way of managing a stand of this kind is to get a turner to turn a piece of light wood in this shape, then to cover it with the blue cambric, and firmly glue the upper part of the vase to it. Any handy boy possessing a turning lathe would be able to manage some of these stands ; but, failing these, there are blue and white teapot stands,°and cheap blue and white plates to be often picked up at the unusually low price of a few pence which would answer the purpose as well. Another very ingenious way of making a small stand for these vases is to get three white empty cotton reels, all of exactly the same size, to paint them blue to match the cretonne, and to pick out the blue with a pattern in white, then to glue these strongly to the base of the ^'ase to serve as three legs. At a little distance no one would ever form a guess as to their original purpose. These vases are totally novel, and therefore have a claim to appreciation by those who are engaged in solving the much-vexed question, " Wliat can I make for the Bazaar .'" , MIKADO HOLDER FOR FEATHER DUSTER. Take a large pliable fan, and fold the lower portion of the two sides together, and fasten with a large bow. This makes a sort of triangular cavity inside the fan, having a hole in the bottom through which the handle pro- jects. Hanging Work-Basket or Tidy for the Wall. Proceed as above, and line with a loose bag of silk or chintz. MIKADO FAN CATCHALL. Take a similar fan to the above, fold over one side only as far as it will comfort- ably and prettily go. Fasten down under the edge of a bow of ribbon, which should be large. Japanese butter- flies, &c., are especially suit- able for trimming the bows fpr these holders. 123 TH^flfjANCy., WORK-BASKETht Knitting, oivifmcn st?riw «. DOLL'S CLOTHES IN KNITTING AND' (:R66h!ET. As dolls are made in such various proportions it may be of some use to mention at the start the measurements of the doll which these clothes are meant to fit. It would then be easier to make alterations to suit a thinner or thicker doll. Length of doll 24 inches, round waist 11 inches, round leg below the knee 4^ inches, length from below the knee to the top of the leg 64 inches, from top of leg to top .of shoulder 8 inches. The Combinations. These combinations measure 14J inches in length ; the materials re- quired are 2 skeins of white merino wool, 3 steel needles. No. 11, and rather a fine bone crochet needle. Cast on 36 stitches on I needle, rib 2 and i for twelve rows back- wards and forwards. 13th row — plain. 14th row — purl. 15th row — plain, increase by knitting 2 into I at the 2nd stitch from each end. i6th row — purl. 17th row — plain. 1 8th row — purl. 1 9th row — plain. 20th row — purl. Repeat the last 6 rows 7 times more ; there should then be 52 stitches on the needle ; this completes the 62nd row. 63rd row— plain. 64th row — purl. 65th row — plain. 66th row — purl. 67th row — plain. Leave the knitting on the needle without breaking the wool, wind the 2nd skein, and on the other 2 needles knit a second piece exactly the same. When the 2nd piece is finished, join the 2 pieces by knitting 27 stitches of the 2nd piece on to the ist needle, still leaving 25 stitches on the 2nd needle, turn and with the 3rd needle knit the 68th row, purl 54 stitches, turn, leaving 25 stitches unknitted. Knit backwards and forwards plain and purl rows on these 54 stitches until you come to the Sist row. 23 plain, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, 4 plain, knit 2 together, 23 plain. 82nd row — purl. 83rd row— plain. 84th row — purl. 85th row— plain. S6th row— purl. 87th row— 22 plain, slip I, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, 4 plain, knit 2 toge- ther, 22 plain. 88th row— 45 purl, turn. 89th row — 40 plain, turn. 90th row — 35 purl, turn. 91st row — 30 plain, turn. 92nd row — 25 purl, turn. 93rd row — 20 plain, turn. 94th row — 15 purl, turn. 95th row — 10 plain, turn. 96th row — 30 purl, turn. 97th row — 50 plain. Knit alternate purl and plain rows until you complete the 136th row. 137th row — cast off all but the last 8 stitches, knit these backwards and forwards tor 4 rows alternately plain and purl, then cast off; break off the wool, leaving a short length to sew up the joining. This completes the back. For the front — commence where you left off with the 2nd ball and knit on to one needle the 25 stitches at each side of the back, making 50 stitches in all. Knit in alternate rows of purl and plain till you complete the 128th row, counting from the beginning of the work. 129th row — cast off all but 8 stitches, knit these backwards and forwards for 4 rows alter- nately purl and plain, then cast off.; join the front shoulder piece to the back and the back shoulder piece to the Iront, taking care to make the seam on the wrong side. The sleeve — commence 16 rows below the shoulder piece to pick up stitches along the side ; after every 3rd stitch picked up, make i, thus there should be 10 stitches up one side, 4 across the shoulder piece, and 10 down the other side, making 24 in all. ist row— purl. 2nd row — plain, knit 2 together at the beginning and end of the row. 3rd row— purl. 4th row — same as 2nd. 5th row — purl. 6th row — same as 2nd. 7th 124 row— purl. 8th rcpji; — cast off very loosely. Make the 2nd sleeve the same. The gusset — cast on 6 stitches, knit alternate rows ot purl and plain till you have a square, then cast off; sew the gusset in its place between the legs, sew up the legs and the sides, make a row of holes round the neck by crocheting 2 trebles, I chain, miss 1 all round, then add an edging to the neck and sleeves as follows : * 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into i stitch, miss i, i double, miss i ; repeat from *; make a cord by working a long chain of double wool, run it into the holes round the neck. The Petticoat. The materials required are rather less than 2 skeins of white reliance wool, and a fine bone crochet needle. Make a chain of 1 50 stitches, join with a slipstitch, taking care not to have a twist in the chain. Throughout this pattern the double stitches are to be worked into the back strand of the stitches in the preceding row. 1st row — * 3 double into i, 6 double, miss 2, 6 double ; repeat from * for 15 rows. i6th row — * 3 double into i, 2 double, miss i, 3 double, miss 2, 3 doubft, miss i, 2 double ; repeat from * all round. 17th to 23rd row — * 3 doulile into i, 5 double, miss 2, 5 double ; repeat from *. 24th row — * 3 double into i, 2 double, miss I, 2 double, miss 2, 2 double, miss i, 2 double ; repeat from *. 25th to 29th row * 3 double into I, 4 double, miss 2, 4 double ; repeat from *. 30th row — * 3 double into the top stitches of the next point, 2 treble, throw the wool round the needle and insert it into the next stitch, draw a loop through, then draw another loop through the next stitch, there should now be 4 loops on the needle; draw a loop through 2 of them, and continue to work off two at a time till all are worked off. For convenience in this pattern this stitch shall be called a double treble. Work another double treble into the next 2 stitches, 2 treble; repeat from * all round. 31st row — 3 chain, turn and work a row of treble, holding the wrong side of the petticoat towards you. When you have worked all the way round do not join but work 3 stitches behind the 3 first in the row ; this will form the beginning of a lap at the placket to prevent its gaping. 32nd row— 3 chain to turn, * 4 treble, i double treble; repeat from * all round. 33rd row — 3 chain to turn, 2 treble, i double treble alternately all round. 34th row — the same as the 33rd row. The petticoat is now ready for the waist band. To make it you must either work exceedingly tightly or else use a finer needle. Work 5 rows of double stitch into both strands of the stitches of the preceding rows. Before fastening oflf make a loop of chain stitch across the end of the band, sew on a button to cor- respond at the other end of the band. Very nice useful petticoats for children may be made on the same plan as the above in petti- coat wool. They are so firm that the most careless laundress can hardly spoil them by dragging them out of shape. Doll's Costume.- Two skeins of white reliance wool, a little more than i skein of pretty light pink or blue merino wool, j of a yard of ribbon about an inch wide, to match the merino wool, 4 wooden or bone knitting needles with points at both ends. No. 5, and two of No. 11, a pretty fine bone crochet needle, and 12 or more buttons of mother of pearl or some other suitable material, are the requisites for the costume. Cast on 76 stitches. 1st row — * 4 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 2nd row — * 2 plain, 4 purl, repeat from * 3rd row — Same as the first . 4th row — Same as the second, sth row — * 2 plain, make I, 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 6th row — * 2 plain, 2 purl, i plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 7th row—* 2 plain, make i, i plain, make i, 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 8th row — * 2 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 9th row — * 2 plain, make i, 3 plain, make I, 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. loth row — * 2 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. nth row—* 2 plain, make I, 5 plain, make I, 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 12th row — * 2 plain, 2 purl, 7 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 13th row — * 2 plain, make i, 7 plain, make i, 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 14th row — * 2 plain, 2 purl, 9 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 15th row — 2 plain, make i, 9 plain, make I, 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. i6th row — * 2 plain, 2 purl, II plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 17th row — * 2 plain, make i, 11 plain, make i, 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 1 8th row — * 2 plain, 2 purl, 13 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 19th row — * 2 plain, make I, 13 plain, make i, 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 20th row — Cast off. The right side of the work was towards you in the even rows. 2ist row — Pick up along the top of the flounce 76 stitches, knitting them as you proceed. 22nd row — purl. 23rd row — i plain, knit 2 together, make i, * 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * ending with I plain. 24th row — 3 plain, * 4 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * ending with 3 purl. 25th row — i plain, * 2 purl, 4 plain, repeat from * ending with 3 plain. 26th row — 3 purl, * 2 plain, 4 purl, repeat from * ending with I purl. 27th row — same as the 23rd row, 28th row— same as the 24th row, i^ih tdvr-^i plain, purl 2 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. together, make a stitch, * 4 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * ending with 3 plain. 30th row — same as the 26th row. 31st row — 3 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, knit 2 together, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, purl 2 together, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, knit 2 together, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, purl 2 together, 4 plain, 2 purl, i plain. 32nd row — I purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, I plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 33rd row — I plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain. 34th row — 3 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 1 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 1 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, i purl. 35th row — i plain, knit 2 together, make I, 2 purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, I purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, i plain. 36th row — I purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, I plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 1 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, I plain. 37th row — i plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 pain, purl 2 together, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, purl 2 together, 3 plain, 2 purl, knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, purl 2 together, 3 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain. 38th row — 3 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, 1 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, I plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, i putl. 39th row — I purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, I purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, I purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, I plain. 40th row — i purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, I plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, I plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, I plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 4istrow — i plain, purl 2 together, maiei, 4 plain, I purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, I purl, 3 plain, 3 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, I purl, 3 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain. 42nd row — I plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, I plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, I plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, i plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 1 purl. 43rd row — I purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, purl 2 together, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, purl 2 together, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, purl 2 together, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, purl 2 to- gether, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, purl 2 together, 4 plain, 2 purl, i plain. 44th row — I purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 1 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 45th row — I plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, i purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain. 46th row — 3 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, i plafn, 4 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, I plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, i plain, 4 purl, 1 plain, I purl. 47th row — i plain, knit 2 together, make i, 2 purl, 2 plain, I purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl, 2 plain, i purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, i plain. 48th row — I purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, I plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, I plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 1 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, i plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 49th row — I plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain. 50th row — 3 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, i purl. 51st row — 3 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, i plain. 52nd row — I purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 53rd row — 1 plain, purl 2 together, make i, 6 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 6 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, i purl. 54th row — 3 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, I purl. 55th row — 3 plain, 2 purl, I plain, knit 2 together, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, knit 2 together, 3 plain, 2 purl, i plain, knit 2 together, 3 plain, 2 purl, i plain, knit 2 to- gether, 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, i plain, knit 2 together, 3 plain, 2 purl, I plain. 56th row — i purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 57th row — i plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain. 58th row — 3 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, i purl. 59th row — i plain knit 2 together, make i, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl, I plain. 00th row — i purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 6ist row — i plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, 2 purl, 3 plain, knit 2 together, 2 purl, 2 plain, knit 2 together, 1 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, knit 3 together, 1 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain. 62nd row — same as the 26th row. 63rd row — same as the 23rd row. 64th row — same as the 24th row. 65th row — i plain, purl 2 together, make i, * 4 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 66th row — same as the 26th row. 67th row — same as the 23rd row. 68th row — same as the 24th row. 69th row — same as the 25th row. 70th row — same as the 26th row. 71st row — i plain, knit 2 together, make i, * 2 purl, 4 plain, repeat from *. 72nd row — same as the 24th row. 73rd row — same as the 25th row. 74th row — same as the 26th row. 75th row — same as the 23rd row. 76th row — same as the 24th row. 77th row — same as the 65th row. 78th row — same as the 26th row. 79th row — same as the 23rd row, only omitting the last 9 stitches, turn. 80th row—* 4 purl, 2 plain, repeat from *, omitting the last 9 stitches. The following rows are to be knit backwards and for- wards on the centre 30 stitches. 8ist row — * 4 plain, 2 purl, repeat from *. 82nd row — * 2 plain, 4 purl, repeat from *. 83rd row — * 2 purl, 4 plain, repeat from *. 84th row — * 4 purl, 2 plain, repeat from *. Repeat the last 4 rows 3 times more, then cast off. At the left side on the 9 stitches work tlie 79th row — 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl, r plain. 80th row— i purl, 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain. 8ist row — 4 plain, 2 purl, 3 plain. 82nd row — 3 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl. Repeat these last 4 rows 3 times more, then cast off. Turn the work with the wrong side towards you and work the 80th row — 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 8ist row — 4 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl. 82nd row — 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, i purl. 83rd row — i plain, knit 2 together, make i, 2 purl, 4 plain. 84th row — 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 85th row — I plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl. S6th row — 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, I purl. 87th row — 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain. 88th row — 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 89th row — i plain, purl 2 to- gether, make i, 4 plain, 2 purl. 90th row — 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, 1 purl. 91st row — 3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain. 92nd row — 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. 93rd row — i plain, 2 purl, 4 plain, 2 purl. 94th row — 2 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, I purl. 95th row — -3 plain, 2 purl, 4 plain. 96th row — 4 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl, cast off; sew these 2 pieces last worked to the corresponding parts on the back to form shoulders, then work the sleeves, using 4 needles. Pick up stitches all round the armhole, making a stitch after every 3rd you pick up, there should thus be 24 stitches altogether, knit in rows going round and round as follows, ist row * i plain, 2 purl, 3 plain ; repeat from *. 2nd row — same as last row. 3rd row — *3 plain, 2 purl, i plain ; repeat from *. 4th row — same as last row ; repeat these 4 rows until the sleeve is the right length, then cast off rather tightly. The Panel. As dolls are so differently proportioned the best method of making the front panel to suit is to fit on the rest of the costume, and cut out a pattern in paper of therequired shape, then you should knit a little square in the merino wool with No. ii needles to ascertain how many stitches go to the inch. From this calculate how many stitches you must cast on to make the lowest part of the panel. You must shape your knitting aceording to the paper by occasionally increasing or decreasing at the beginning and end of a row. The pattern in the panel is worked as follows. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by 4. ist row — 2 plain, 2 purl alternately to the end of the row. 2nd row — i plain, * 2 purl, 2 plain ; repeat frohi *. 3rd row— 2 purl, 2 plain alternately. 4th row — I purl, * 2 plain, 2 purl ; repeat from *. Repeat these 4 rows, always taking care to make allowance for any stitches altered by increasing or decreasing, or the pattern will go wrong. When you have worked a few rows you will see that the ribbing always goes i stitch to the right in the even rows, and I stitch to the left in the odd ones. This makes a pretty diagonal pattern. When the panel is completed, sew it into its place at the left side of the front and sew buttons down the right side to correspond with the buttonholes in the costume. If wished, a second row of buttons may be sewn down the left side to match these. 1^5 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. The Flounces. With 2 of the coarse needles and the reliance wool, cast on 24 stitches and work the same as the 1st 20 rows of the costume. For the 2nd flounce only cast on 18 stitches. These 2 flounces go across the back of the costume to give it a bunchy appearance. Crochet an edge all round the cuffs and along the lower part of the flounces, also the bottom of the panel as follows, with the merino wool, ist row — * i treble, i chain, miss i ; repeat from*. 2nd row — 1 double in the 1st treble of last row, * 4 chain, i single into the 1st of the 4 chain, I double into the next treble ; repeat from *. Work a row up the sides of the costume, round the neck and across the top of the panel to correspond with the 2nd row of crochet. With the white reliance wool crochet along the lower edge of the knitted part of the flounces on the wrong side, 1 single stitch into each rib between the gussets with 5 chain between. This makes the flounces remain evenly fluted. Sew the short flounces into their places at the back of the costume, the smallest going at the top. Place a pretty bow of ribbon at the waist so as partly to cover the place where the top flounce is sewed on. The Hat. One skein of white reliance wool, a small piece of coloured merino wool and a pair of bone knitting needles, No. 11, are the necessary materials. Cast on 66 stitches, and work in the same broken rib pattern in which you worked the costume (see 23rd to 26th rows of the costume). It takes 10 rows for the brim of the hat, the work must be reversed for the crown, therefore, work the nth row plain knitting. 12th row — same as the 1st row ; continue the pattern as before until you complete the 47th row. Do not cast off, but break off the wool at a little distance from the knitting, leaving a short length, with this, thread a long wool needle, slip all the stitches off 'the knitting on to the wool needle, pull it through them, and draw all close. Turn the work wrong side out, and sew a few stitches to strengthen it, then join it up the sides of the knitting. Turn up the brim, and with the coloured merino wool, work a crochet edging round it to correspond with that on the costume. With the coloured wool crochet a tuft for the front of the crown as follows. Make a loop into which work 4 double close. Into each double, work 2 loop stitches, winching the wool 5 times round the 2 forefingers of the left hand. Repeat this row once more, then work 5 stitches backwards and forwards for 4 rows, working double stitch when the right side is towards you, and loop stitch when the wrong side is towards you. Fasten off, and sew the tuft securely into its place. JERSEY SUIT FOR BOY OF FIVE YEARS. This nicely fitting suit is knitted on 2 needles No. 11, Walker's gauge. The needles should be long; bone are the pleasantest to work with. 12 ozs. of Alliance fingering wool will make the suit. Heather mixtures, navy, prune, brown, or dark green are all suitable colours. The trousers are shaped after the model of one of our best patterns, so that a perfect fit may be relied on. Four steel needles. No. 13, are also used. For jersey— ^cast on 80 stitches on coarse needles, knit 12 rows backwards and forwards in garter stitch, always slipping the ist stitch on each row ; now knit in the follow- ing pattern until there are 17 inches from the commencement, ist row — knit i, purl i ; repeat. 2nd row — purl i, knit i ; repeat. This completes i pattern. The entire suit is to be worked in this pattern unless directed to the contrary. The piece of 17 inches long should reach from the bottom of the jersey to the boy's shoulder. More or less may be knitted to suit the taste of the worker, as some people like jerseys longer than others. Next row — work 20 stitches, break off wool, put 40 stitches for neck on another needle until required, work 20 stitches, ist row of back — work 20 stitches, cast on 40, work 20, knit backwards and forwards until the back is the same length as the front. End off with 12 rows of garter stitch ; cast off. For neck — with needles No. 13, knit I, purl i on the 40 stitches left in front, pick up 2 stitches on shoulder, pick up 40 along the cast on stitches, pick up 2 stitches on 2nd shoulder. Continue to knit I, purl i alternately round and round like a stocking for 20 rounds ; cast off. For sleeve— cast on 64 stitches with 2 needles, No. 13, knit i, purl i ; repeat. Work 19 more rows the same. With coarse needles, work 96 rows in the pattern. Next row — work till i stitch remains, knit it without taking the stitch off the left needle, knit it again and so increase i. Work 1 5 more rows the same ; cast off loosely. There should be 80 stitches on the needle. Make another sleeve the same. Sew the sleeves along the sides of jersey. Sew up the sides and sleeves, fastening all the ends carefully. Do not pull the wool tightly when sewing, or it will not wear. Turn up the garter stitch round the bottom of jersey and hem it up neatly on the wrong side. For trousers — with coarse needles, cast on 78 stitches, knit 6 plain rows in garter stitch. 7th row — knit 2 together, knit till 2 remain, decrease again, knit 5 more plain rows. 1st row— work 5 rows in the pattern used 126 for jersey. 6th row — knit i, increase by picking up a loop from the last row and knitting it as a stitch, wort without breaking the pattern until i stitch remains, increase, knit i ; repeat the last 6 rows 13 times more. There should be 104 stitches on the needle, work 2 pattern rows. 99th row — begins at back of trousers. Mark with a piece of coloured wool when commencing it, decrease, work in pattern till 2 remain, decrease. looth row — decrease, finish row. loist row — work till 2 remain, decrease. 102nd row — decrease, finish row. 103rd row — same as 99th row. 104th row — decrease, finish row. 105th row — work till 2 remain, decrease. io6th row — decrease, finish row. 107th row — decrease, finish row. io8th, 109th, iioth rows — knit in pattern, iiith row — saine as 99th row. ii2th, 113th, 114th rows — knit in pattern. 115th row — decrease, finish row. ii6th, 117th, ii8th, 119th, 120th rows — knit in pattern. i2ist row — decrease, finish row; repeat the last 6 rows 6 times more, work 3 rows in pattern. 155th row—work 41 stitches in pattern, turn back, work 5 1 stitches. 157th row — decrease, work 34 stitches, turn back, work 35 stitches,work 4 more rows in the same way. There should be 25 stitches on the back needle. 163rd row — decrease, knit 19 stitcnes, turn back, work 20 stitches ; continue working thus until all the stitches are on one needle. There should be 80 stitches. Work all across, knit 1, purl 1 alternately for 6 rows. 7th row— rib as before until 8 stitches remain ; cast off 2, rib 6. 8th row — rib 7, cast on 2, finish row, rib 6 more rows; cast off ; this completes the left leg. Work the right leg in the same way, omitting the buttonhole at top of front. For flap to close front of trousers. The knitting in this is to be plain garter stitch. Cast on 5 stitches, always knit never slip the 1st stitch of each row. 1st row — knit 4, make 1, kn.t 1. 2nd row — knit 6. 3rd row — knit 5, make 1, knit 1. 4th row — knit 7. Sth row — knit 6, make I, knit 1. 6th row — knit 8. 7th row — knit 6, make 1, knit 1, make i, knit i. 8th row — knit 10. 9th ro w; — knit 2 together, put stitch back on left needle, knit 2 together, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. 10th row — ^knit 10. nth row— same as 9th row. 12th, 13th, 14th rows — plain. 15th row— decrease, knit 7, make 1, knit I, Knit 19 plain rows. 35th row — knit 3, cast off 3, knit 3. 36tli row— knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3. Knit 16 plain rows. Repeat from 35th row twice more. 87th and 88th rows — same as 35th and 36th rows. Knit 6 plain rows, cast off. Work a second flap in exactly the same way, omitting the buttonholes, instead of which sew on small metal trouser but- tons. Sew the short edge of the flap without buttonholes to the edge of front of right leg ; sew the 2nd flap in its place under the front edge of left leg. Secure the buttonholes in their place by stitching strongly between each. The buttonhole at the top of the leg should overlie the top one in flap, so as to make i hole through the double of the stuff ; join the edges of both holes together ; close the seam at inside of each leg, taking a very narrow seam on the wrong side ; join the two legs from the waist at the back to the opening in front. It is so difiicult to explain clearly how to put trousers together without notches to guide by, that we recommend any inexperienced worker to send for our Special Number of Boys' Suits, price 2^d. post free. Any difiiculty in following the above directions will thus be made clear and simple. When the trousers are made up sew 7 trouser buttons along the waist, to fasten to the suspenders. Turn up the garter stitch at each knee and hem it down on the wrong side. INSERTION. This design is suit- able for trimming children's dresses chemises, night- dresses, and curtains, both short and long, besides antimacassars and other useful and elegant articles. Materials required: — If for trimming children's dresses, chemises, or nightgowns, a pair of steel needles. No. 18, Bell gauge, and Boar's Head cotton. No. 20, which will make the inser- tion the width seen in the engraving. For antimacassars, curtains, and coarser articles, needles No. 10, and cotton No. 10, or coarser if required. With the two knitting needles cast on 10 stitches. 1st row — slip 1, knit I, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2. 2nd row — slip 1, knit 1, purl 6, knit 2. 3rd row — same as 1st. 4th row — same as 2nd. Sth row — slip i, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2. 6th row — slip 1, knit 1, purl 8, knit 2. 7th row — slip I, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2. 8th row-icot, 3 chain, i single into the space between the 8 trelsle and 1st picot. 9th row — I double crochet, 8 treble in the hole, i picot in the 1st picot, 5 chain, i double crochet into the i hole in the centre in the previous row, J chain, i picot in the next picot. loth row — 5 chain to turn, i picot as usual, 5 chain, i double crochet in the double crochet in the previous row, 5 chain, I picot in the next picot, 3 chain, i single in the space between the 8 treble and picot in previous row. nth row — i double stitch, 8 treble into the hole formed by the 3 chain, i single stitch drawn rather tightly in the hole in the ist picot, another single drawn tight in the hole in the next picot (this forms the point of your scallop), i chain, 8 treble into the same hole in the same picot as you worked the 2nd single into; * i double crochet, 8 treble into the next hole which is formed by the 5 chain you made to turn, and repeat from * 4 times more ; this brings you to the end of the holes formed by the 5 chain to turn, i double crochet into the treble in the 2nd row of the foundation, which finishes the hole into which you worked your picot, over which you have just now made your last scallop ; this finishes i scallop. Next scallop — make 7 chain, miss 4 holes, l picot in the next hole, * 7 chain, miss 4 holes, i picot in the 5th hole ; repeat from * once more ; you now should have 3 picots, just as you did in the ist row of your scallop. Begin now with the 2nd row of scallop and work as above, with this exception, that in working your Ist set of I double and 8 treble you had better join the 5th treble to the 5th treble of the last scallop completed ; if you prefer, you could join the second small scallop of 8 treble in the same way. A beautiful baby's carriage robe can be made for summer wear by taking a fine Turkish towel, cutting off the fringe and hemming the two ends. Then make a border of the above scallop, in pink or blue to match the colour predominating in the pattern of your towel. If you can get Saxony yarn, it is very pretty, if not, get Andalusian. The Andalusian is rather coarser than the Saxony, but both work nicely. SOFA RUG. The model for this handsome rug was composed of 5 shades of golden brown double Berlin wool, 5 shades of gas green, and 6 shades of red, from claret to rose-pink. One lb. of each colour will be required, and a bone hook. No. 12. Commence with the darkest shade of the brown to make a chain the length required. The model was 2i yards long, ist row — put your hook in the 2nd chain stitch and raise a loop as for tricot, repeat in 7 next stitches ; you will have 9 loops on your hook altogether, draw wool through all at once, make i loose chain, put a double in the next chain stitch, and repeat from beginning of row to the end of the chain ; fasten oflf. 2nd row — with same shade fasten on with a double, work 7 treble into the l chain that drew your 9 loops together, I double over double, and repeat all along. 3rd row — with 2nd shade. If your work is right you should have a complete star at the com- mencement of the row ; fasten on as well as you can and work 3 tricoter trebles over the 1st 3 stitches, i.e., raise 3 loops and pull through all at once, * i double on the next stitch. Work tricoter trebles on the remaining 3 of that star, on the double that connects it with the next one, and on the ist 3 of next star. You should have 7 in all, draw through, make i chain, and repeat from * all along. 4th row — with same shade like the 2nd. These last 2 rows are repeated throughout. 5th and 6th rows in 3rd shade. 7th and 8th in 4th shade. 9th and loth in 5th shade, nth and 12th darkest green. 13th and 14th rows — 2nd shade. 15th and i6th rows — 3rd shade. 17th and 1 8th rows — 4th shade. 19th and 20th rows — Sth shade. 21st and 22nd rows — darkest red. 23rd and 24th rows — 2nd shade. 2Sth and 26th rows — 3rd shade. 27th and 28th rows — 4th shade. 29th and 30th rows — 5th shade. 31st and 32nd rows— 6th shade. 33rd and 34th rows — 5th shade. 35th and 36th rows — 4th shade. 37th and 38th rows — 3rd shade. 39th and 40th rows — 2nd shade. 41st and 42nd rows— Ist shade. 43rd and 44th rows 5th shade of green. 45th and 46th rows — 4th shade. 47th and 48th rows — 3rd shade. 49th and 5olh rows — 2nd shade. 51st and 52nd rows— 1st shade. 53rd and S4th rows— 5th shade of red. 55th and s6th rows— 4th shade. 57th and 58th rows — 3rd shade. 59th and 60th rows — 2nd shade. 6ist and 62nd rows — 1st shade. This completes the rug. For the fringe take 12 lengths of wool in every shade of 12 inches each, make 4 tassels of each shade, 3 lengths to each tassel, fringe them on the rug top and bottom in the ordinary way, putting a tassel to every row, and putting the same shade tassel as the rows are. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. DAHLIA STAR Materials required : No. l8 Coate's crochet cotton steel needle No. 4. Make a chain of 20 stitches and join into a circle, ist round — 30 stitches of double crochet round and under the Circle. 2nd round — 36 double crochet, increasing 6 times at regular intervals. 3rd round — i double, 5 chain, miss i; there should be 18 loops of chain in all: break off. 4th round — i doable into the centre stitch of 5 chain, 5 chain, and repeat all round; should be 18 loops as before. 5th round — all double crochet, putting 3 double crochet stitches into the centre stitch of each of the 18 loops. 6th to 12th rounds — the same as the 5th, continuing to increase in the centre stitch; this forms the 18 raised petals of the dahlia. 13th round — here begins the open work border. Work 2 double crochet between each petal with 5 chain between; there should be 18 loops of 5 chain; break off the cotton. 14th round — make i double crochet, 5 chain, now double a petal just in the centre and lean it over toward the left hand, put the needle through a stitch i row from the edge on the underside of the petal as it lies, and through one of the double crochet stitches of the previous row, draw cotton through, forming a double crochet, make 5 chain and repeat ; this holds the petals in proper position ; break off cotton. 15th round — * make I treble in a loop of 5 chain which comes between 2 petals, 5 chain, I treble in same loop, 2 chain, miss i loop of 5 chain, and repeat from * ; there should be 18 loops of 5 chain. i6th round — work 2 treble under 5 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in S9me 5 chain, 3 chain, double crochet under 2 chain of last row, 3 chain, and repeat all round. 17th round— 2 long treble, 3 chain, 2 long ttreble under the loop of 3 chain between the 4 treble which forms fihe point, 4 chain and repeat all round. i8th round — under loop of 3 chain between the long treble work 2 long treble, 7 chain, i double crochet back into top of last treble to picot, 7 chain, picot back into same stitch as before, 7 chain, picot back into sameplace,nowmake2morelongtreble into same loop as the former ones, 4 chain, double crochet under 4 chain of previous row, and repeat. For the small star make a chain of 10 stitches, join into a round. 1st round — 16 stitches of double crochet. 2nd round — i treble, 3 chain, and miss i for eight times. 3rd round— 9 treble under each loop of 3 chain, and i double on the treble between the loops of 3 chain. 4th round — into centre stitch of the 9 treble put i double crochet, 11 chain, double crochet back into the 4th chain to form picot, 7 chain, picot back into same loop as before, 7 chain, picot back into same loop as before, 7 chain, now repeat all round ; there should be 8 groups of picots. Seven of these large dahlias and 6 of the small ones with the picots round, and 6 still smaller being made the same, but without the last or picot row, will make a beautiful round antimacassar. The smallest of the small stars are to be placed round the centre star to unite the other 6 dahlias; the other 6 with the picot row are to unite round the edge. A row ol chain must be worked all round the outside and then work upon it a border like is round the large star ; only continue it a little deeper before putting the picots, in doing this be careful to allow it full enough in first row to allow for spreading out larger as it works larger. LACE FOR DRAWERS, &c. Use cotton No. 28 or 30, and a fine hook. Commence with the ring in the middle, make 10 chain, unite in a ring, work 10 double crochet into half the ring, 10 chain, slipstitch into the last double crochet to form another ring, work 5 double crochet into this ring, *6 chain, slipstitch into the 5th double crochet of the ist ring, turn and work 11 double crochet in the loop of 6 chain just formed, turn and work back 1 double crochet into each of the 1 1 doubles, * turn, I double crochet on ist double, 5 chain, slipstitch into the double just made, 2 more double in next stitches, 5 chain slipstitch as before, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slipstitch, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slipstitch, 2 double crochet, 5 chain, slipstitch. 1 double crochet, * which finishes the 11, ** now work 5 more double crochet into the 2nd ring, 10 chain, shpstitch to form another ring, work 10 double crochet into half this ring, 10 chain, slipstitch to form a ring, work 5 double crochet, and repeat from * to * ; 2 chain, join to 1st loop of 5 chain in last scallop, 2 chain, slipstitch into the ist double crochet of 2nd scallop, now make 4 more purls of 5 chain, with 2 double between, and repeat from **. For the other side of the ring work back 10 double crochet in 1st ring, 5 double crochet in next ring, 6 chain, slipstitch into the 5th double crochet of last ring, * II double crochet in the loop of 6 chain, turn, 11 double crochet in the last 11, turn, i double, 5 chain, slipstitch into double just fnade, * 2 double, 5 chain, slipstitch into last double, repeat from * 3 times more, 5 double into the ring of 10 chain, 10 double in the next ring, 5 double crochet in the next, 6 chain, slipstitch into the 5th double of last ring, and repeat from **, joining the scallops the same as you did the other side. For the heading — 3 chain, slipstitch into every loop of 5 chain. 2nd row — 3 chain, i treble into every loop of 3 chain. 3rd row — 3 douUe crochet in every loop of 3 chain. EDGING. crochet, 5 chain, slipstitch double, slipstitch in the 4th, Use cotton No. 30, aiid a fine steel hook. Make a chain the length required. 1st row — I double crcchet into every chain. 2nd row — turn, 5 chain, slipstitch in the 4th double same stitch, * 5 chain, miss 3 miss 3, slipstitch in the next m the chain 4th, 5 chain, slipstitch in the same stitch, repeat from * lo the end. 3rd row — turn, 3 chain, i treble in the loop of 5 chain, 2 chain, 1 treble 4 times in the same hole,* 3 chain, slipstitch in the next loop of 5 chain, 2 chain, slipstitch in the next loop, 3 chain, i treble in the next loop, 2 chain, 1 treble 5 times in same hole, repeat from *. 4th row — turn, I double crochet, 5 chain, i double crochet into every loop of 2 chain between the trebles, 2 double crochet in the loop of 3 chain, I double crochet in the loop of 2 chain, and repeat. PRETTY EDGING. Cotton No. 30 should be used for this, and a fine hook. Make a chain the length required. ist row — I double crochet in every stitch. 2nd row — turn, 5 chain, 3 double crochet in the next 3 double stitches, 5 chain, slip into last double stitch, * 3 double crochet in the next 3 double stitches, 5 chain, slip into last double stitch. Repeat to the end; break off. For the heading: 1st row — same as 2nd of edging. 2nd row — 3 chain, slipstitch into every- loop of 5 chain. *« THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Answers to Correspondents. In compliance with the request of nwmerous subscribers, ive have decided to open- a column' in which uie imll answer' a/ny queries relating to Fancy Work. Such queries should he written clearly on-one side of the paper only, and headed " Work-Basket," and should reach us not later tha/n the lith of the month tg ensure reply in next issue. A nom de plume must he affixed to each. NoBA. — 1. The pattern for Crochet Jacket in No. 7 is quite correct. You have 54 stitches in each of your pieces of work. You join 34 of these for under arms, leaving 20 for the armhole, the shoulder being formed by joining the rows, not the stitches. 2. The little dress on page 69, No. 4, is very stylish and fashionable, and seveial other walking costumes have been given which could be adapted for the age mentioned. The Creeve Paletot in No. 3 is designed for five years, and is extremely pretty. Minnie. — Lessons in Macram^ Work were given in Nos. 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, and 14, and will shortly be resumed. A Tame Lion. — 1 . We fear we cannot give a receipt for Boys' Sailor Dress in knitting, as it would not be of general utility, woven or knitted suits not being made in that shape. However, you could manage the knickerbockers from the directions given for Jersey Suits in this and previous numbers, and the blouse we should think might be easily fashioned by knitting to a pattern. It would be a straight piece till you reached the place where the V. begins. For the armholes you would knit backwards and forwards for the 2 fronts and backs separately. The collar might be managed by casting on the width of widest part, and knitting a piece to reach the neck, gradually increasing to give the sloped shape, then knit on a third of the stitches, decreasing to a point for one side ; cast off the next third and do the other side to match. The sleeves also could be managed from the Jersey Suit. 2. We will try to insert the modern doll's costume. The one in present issue is very pretty. We fear the knitted or crochet draperies would be clumsy. 3. We hope soon to give tatting receipts. Thanks very much for your kind commendations. Our labours are far from light, in order to bring our -works to as perfect a state as possible, but the knowledge that they help to pass away many an otherwise monotonous and weary hour, goes far to lighten them. Salhe. — Please say in which article you saw the Coffee Coloured Pre- paration recommended, as we have looked all through the March number and cannot find the reference, nor have we any recollection of it. Etdite. — 1. You have misunderstood completely the directions for Boa in last number. The foundation is not worked in perfect rounds at all, but the rounds are connected as directed, by working the 16th double long into the 1st, the 31st into the 30th, and so on, thus making a ladder- like found- ation. Into the top of each set or series of 15 trebles is worked the first row of lace, and a roio does not mean merely round the 15 trebles, but the entire length. The second row and others are worked into preceding rows of lace and not the foundation. Therefore there is no settled number of scallops to each set of 15 trebles. 2. The sets of 18 chain are worked into the centre of each group of treble both at top and bottom, you seemed to have gone into the middle of the rows, but we could hardly judge from the sample, it not being in proper materials. 4. We find there is a slight error in Underbodice, on page 70, No. 16, the third row should read "14 doubles, decrease," and so on. 5. In Canadian Fascinator you work the doubles and long trebles all into the centre of shells, in doing the border across the widest part. The 3 chain, 3 double are worked between every stitch of 1st row, that is you work it between the 2nd and 3rd of the last doubles of one shell, and then 3 chain, 3 double between the 1st and 2nd of 1st group . of doubles of next shell. Thistle. — We are very pleased indeed to receive your most flattering letter. We wUl see what we can do for the drawn work, but really only sheets of designs to copy from are of any use. P !M. S. H.— 1. Knitting is always sewn up on the wrong side. 2. The 158 stitches are not divided, but form one half of the garment. 3. The 12 stitches are the centre ones above join. Shaklston. — It is seldom there are more than 12 months in a volume. We advertise it as containing the first twelve numbers. No. 15 was published for December at the end of November. No. 16 was published for January at the end of December. 2. If you go by the numbers, you cannot be far wrong. T. W.^Messrs. Bedford & Co., Goodge Street, Tottenham Court Road, London, would supply the antimacassar braid. We believe the price woixld not exceed Id. per yard. A SUBSCKIEBK. — 1. We will endeavour to give some directions for mats later on. 2. A splash screen could be made of some pretty subjects cut out of cretonne and gummed on to American cloth, and afterwards varnished. See article on screens. and splash screens in present issue. There have been many suggestions given for book covers, &c., which might be adapted. DoitOTHt Emjiie.->-1. Yes.; it should be divide by 29 in Crochet Petticoat on page i3, . Vol. 1. You always commence with 2 chain and ' join into it. The rows also should be broken off for placket hole. 2. In the tricoter pattern you raise a loop at the end of the row the best way you can from the back.- It is the tendency of this work to go aslant, as in tncoter knot stitch. 3. To make a stitch at the commencement of a row o£ knitting y6u._put your needle under the thread and insert in stitch, then put the thread back and knit as usual. It is really thread over the needle. 136 Marie. — 1. It is a branch of Bay (Laurus nobilis) ; leaves very dark green, under surface paler ; buds light shade of green, marked here and there with a russet shade. 2. Whiteley, Westbourne Grove, or Hart & Co., Newcastle Street, Strand, will obtain patterns for brass repouss^ work, if they do noj keep them in stock, E. A. — WeU-made paper flowers, especially rosebuds or tulips, good artificial flowers and the cape everlastings, to be bought by the bunch, at any florist's, are more in vogue and lighter in appearance than woollen flowers, especially if the iSpergne is to be placed at a little distance from the observer. Sale Column. In compliance with the request of numerous subscribers, we have decided to open a column for the Sale of Ladies' Work, the cha/rgefor which will he Sd. for every 8 words. Ko trade announcement of any hind will be in- serted. Please Note. — Always write " Wokk-Basket" on each letter. Pkettt crochet edgings, 3d. per yard; Beautiful wide linen lace for brackets, furniture, dresses, &c., 2s. per yard. — Address, Orphan, care of the Editress. The Creeve Knitting Card. — Rules and scales for knitting stockings and socks of any size. A perfect fit ensured. By A. E. K. Price Zd. each, post free. — Box 10, P.O., Ballymena, Ireland. Handsome Knitted Drawers in soft white wool, fancy pattern, fit 22- inch waist, only 7s. 6d Cream Knitted Ice Wool Boa, 2 yards long, in imitation of the lace ones, 5s. — Cora, care of the Editress. Practical Artistic Patchwork. The Twist, Oriel, Mosaic, Roman Star, and Mexican Stripe, also the new Eiderdown, which makes a hand- some winter coverlet ; the six patterns, artistically coloured, including full- sized diagrams for cutting papers, 14 stamps. — Address, Doeinda, Ring- rose, Malvern Link. Needlework for Ladies foe Pleasdee and Profit. — All the new Art- Work. Directions for lovely things in Knitting and Crochet, useful articles and wearable things. Saleable Bazaar Articles. How to Dispose of Work and List of Work Societies. Enlarged to 194 pages. Price Is. ?>d., post free. — Dokinda, Kingrose, Malvern Link. SUBSCRIPTION FORM FOR MRS. LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET. NOTICE. Subscribers unable to procure the above from their Newsagent can have it forwarded direct from the Publisher for Twelve months, 'post free, for Thirty Stamps. To ike Pdblisher, Please to forward me MRS. LEACH'S IF-A-JSrCY" ■WOiaiC-B.A.SICET Fm' Twelve Months, addressed to Mrs Qs. Qd. enclosed. Commence with No. for -. ' - IS" This Subscription entitles you to any Extra Nos. New Edition. Just Out. Price Twopence. HO\V TO DANCE, By an M.C. Giving the Steps and Figures of all the New and Country Dances, with Dictionary of French Terms used in Dancing ; Illustrations of Bail-Room Dresses, Hair-dressing, &c. Post free, Three Stamps. POCKET EDITION, handsomely bound, sent free by post in envelope for 7 stamps. B. Cabtwbighi, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E.G. MRS. LEACH'S HOW TO MAKE BOYS' SUITS. loo ix.XiXrsTia.A.Tioi^rs Of Suits for all Ages, Braided Jersey, Sailor, Rugby, Oxonian, Eton, Tourist, Bicycling, &c. ; Little Boys' Tunics, Boys' Underclothing, Dressing Gowns, iSic., with full instructions how to cut out and make up, with quantity of material required. Of all newsvondors, 2d., or 3d. post free. Mrs. Leach, S, JohnSoti's Court,- Fleet Street, London. ;,;VA: COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. <• » ♦ -4 On the Painting of Various Articles for our Homes. Chapter V. PIANO FRONTS. There are many ways of filling up effectively and artistically the front of a piano, simple or elaborate designs in needlework and painting being the usual method adopted; but we will confine our- selves to the description of painted designs only. In choosing a subject, care must be taken that the colours shall harmonise with the general tone of the room, and also the choice should depend upon the position of the piano ; for instance, if the piano stands in a dark comer, a mirror is most suitable, as there is nothing so well adapted to lighten a dark part of a room as a looking-glass. If, on the other hand, the piano is placed in a bright light, a mirror as a front would be altogether too gaudy, and also would be uncomfort- ably dazzling to the eye ; and silk, satin, wood, or leather would be far preferable. Mirror painting having been fully treated of in a former paper, we need not go very fully into the detail of the paint- ing, but will only briefly describe one or two useful designs. We have before observed that aquatic subjects seem peculiarly suitable for the decoration of mirrors, but as these are perhaps overdone, we will only mention one design of this kind we saw some little time ago ago, which looked really charming. The mirror was, of course, the length of the piano ; on the right hand side was painted a group of the yellow iris (or " flag," as these flowers are mere generally termed) and bulrushes, as if growing out of the water. The remainder of the glass was covered with water-lilies of a good size, and their leaves — which latter, by -the- by, are very rarely painted large enough ; in nature they are generally larf/er than the flowers, not smaller, as we so often see them represented. A few bulrushes were shown growing out of the water on the left hand side; but the principal feature in the design was a flight of five black swallows, with white breasts, commencing from the top left hand comer. The one there was very small (about ij inches long), the next one was larger, and so on until the principal bird measured about 5 inches, and was painted low down, as if just skimming the water. A single spray of the delicate pink cherry blossom and a flight of tomtits ; a spray of crimson and gold . autumn-tinted bramble leaves, and one or two birds or butterflies hovering near ; scarlet japonica, jasmine, apple blossom, mauve clematis, laburnum, are all suitable subjects for mirrors in such a place. A few hints on painting laburnum may not be amiss here. The outline must first be drawn in with light chrome yellow, then with the same colour, each flower must be painted, putting it on very thinly; mi.xa little ivortj black with the same i/eScnt', and go over the shadow side of each flower. The petals are next painted in with pure jJ«?e chrome; in doing this use the paint much thicker than is usual, to make the petals appear to stand out. Flcike white and pale chrome are mixed for the lights; the green for the stem of the calyx is a mixture of pale chrome; and permanent blue, the shadow on the calyx ravj sienna and permanent hlue. The colour of the leaves, of course, change according' to their age, the youngest ones being much lighter than the oldest. For the former mix -permanent bine. Hake luhite, emerald green, and pale chrome for the tone or local colour ; raw sienna and Antwerp blue are for the shadows. When the tone and shadow are put on, a centre vein of a lighter colour is next painted. For the oldest leaves mix for the shadows deep chrome, raw sienna and Ant- rverp hlv.ej for the local colours use Anticerp blue and deep chrome. The colour of the stem is a greenish brown. For the little joints and notches seen on the stem use candyhe hroicn; permanent blue and fia.'ke white is used for the light on the stems. It is a good plan to vary the tint of the leaves, making some a greenish brown by mixing burnt sieniui, deep chrome, and a little vermilion or light red. This flower takes a long time to paint, requiring as it does such delicate treatment; but it is a great favourite for mirrors, the curves being so very graceful. Fruit is, per- haps, newer than flowers, and not so difficult to paint as the amateur may imagine ; the only point of importance to be borne in mind, is that the painter must aim at softness of tone and colour- ing, blending light and shade together in such a manner that it VoL II.— No. SO. would be difficult to say where the former began and the latter ended. This would prove the only real difficulty, and could be easily got over with a little practice. However, the amateur might try her hand at the following design, via., red cherry. The branches of this fruit are so slender that the designer can easily adapt it to his or her will. The ground colour for the fruit is pure crinuon lake. The reflected lights are a mixture of vermilion and crirnjion lake. For the lights, a little flake white is added to the former colours. The high lights are pure fiake white. So much for the fruit ; now for the leaves. For the shadows mix Antwerp blue, burnt sienna, and chrome yellow. The local colour or tone of the leaf is made of pale chrome yellow, Antwerp blue and emerald green. Bees, wasps and butterflies can generally be added with effect to a design of flowers or fruit. In the butterfly the drawing is the most important point to be observed, the colouring may be anything the painter fancies. The black markings on a butterfly's wings must be put over the bright colours. For instance, in the common yellow butter- fly, pure^aie chrome mixed with the medium is first painted all over the wings, then the lights are put on, which are offtake white and chrome. The body is painted in with vandyke brown. When this is done the fine lines seen in the wings are painted or drawn in, with a very fine brush, filled with black, and then the triangular mark at the tip of the wings. Gadflies are usually very effective in a water subject, but they require great care in the painting, the wings being so transparent, and reflecting as they do all the colours of the rain- bow. They look so pretty when done, that it is well worth the titne given to it by the amateur. First a very pale blue, made very thin with the medium, is painted on, then a very little /-o.^e madder, or pink madder, or if these colours are not in the box, a touch of cnmson lake made very thin, next a little chrome yellow. When this is done, the colours must be softened and blended together with a clean, soft brush. The above different colours must not be painted one over another, but in separate places. We have now given three suggestions for the decoration of a mirror for the front of a piano ; of course there are many more that we might mention, b we hope that in reading these few hints the amateur may be able to originate new and original ideas which she may be able to work out for herself. For a piano occupying a light position in the room, American cloth, or Lincrusta Walton, is perhaps the best for a front. These have a great advantage over silk or satin, as they can be washed ; silk and satin are dreadful materials for catching the dust, so are not so suitable. A subdued tint of cloth should be chosen that will harmonise with the tone of the room. In our last paper we mentioned that American cloth can be procured in nearly every shade and at a moderate price. In our next number we will give description of one or two designs painted on American cloth for the front of a piano, and also for the top of the piano. (To be continued.) SUBSCRIPTION FORM FOR MRS, LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET. NOTICE. Subscribers unable to procure the above from their Xewsagent can have it forwarded direct from the Publisher for Twelve months, post free, for Thirty Stamps. To the PnBUSHEE, Please to forward me MRS. LEACH'S :F^3srG"Z- "woi?-:k:-b.a.sk:et For Twelve Moiiili^, addressed to Mrs 2}. Qd, enclosed. Commence with No. for This Subscription entitles you to any Extra Nos. 137 THE FANCY WORK- BASK.ET. Art Needlework. There is nothing very new at present in the way of fancy needle- work; indeed, we seem to only favour that which is done in the shortest time. Apphque, therefore, is much used for a variety of purposes, both useful and ornamental. A pretty design, suitable for table-cover borders, antimacassars, curtain bands or borders, &c., consists of a spray of roses, forget-me-nots and their leaves. The leaves are of green sateen, and also the bottom part of the buds. The flowers are worked in long stitch, that is to say, drawn up to the top in a straight line, then a tiny piece of the foundation taken up, and the needle passed down to the com- mencement of first stitch. By following this plan no waste of silk is at the back. Pale pink, yellow, or blue are the colours suitable. The centre should be worked in satin stitch, which is done by sewing over three threads or more of silk or crewel. If the latter be used, silk should form the centres of the flowers. A deep ruby or red-brown cloth or velveteen is most suit- able for the foundation. The whole pattern is outlined with gold- coloured fine cord caught down with silk the same colour. The outline should be of a lighter shade for the leaves, and darker for the flowers. The leaves may be worked in long stitch also if pre- ferred, but it takes longer, is more expensive, and the satin is quite our own design, and gives a very bright appearance. Cloth is to be preferred to velveteen for a foundation for this reason : the latter attracts the dust to such an extent, and brushing injures the work. An antimacassar which is quite novel is made by following the given directions : You require three quarters of a yard of sateen eleven inches wide. There is a very cheap surah ribbon, 5fd. per yard, which does beautifully, and a strip of cut-out cretonne the same length, two yards and a half of lace six inches wide, about six or seven skeins of shaded silks for working over the flowers, leaves, &c. After you have cut out the pattern thoroughly from the plain part of the cretonne, you must carefully gum the strip on to the sateen. When dry proceed to work over the pattern here and there, taking care to work over the edges so that the cretonne does not become detached from the foundation. The great advantage of this style is, it is so quickly done ; therefore ladies working for a bazaar would find following out the idea produce good results, for it is sure to fetch a good price, and the outlay would be but small. Three quarters of a yard of cretonne would be sufficient for four antimacassars, and the narrow stripe running between the one of flowers or leaves would come in for toilet mats, made up with coffee-coloured lace and insertion. This colour should be used in preference to pure vi^hite, and keeps fresh much longer. The same idea can be carried out for wall-pockets and various articles that would be both useful and ornamental. Another pretty and quick way to make a set of bed-room pockets for watch, &c. : Cut out m card-board and cover with scarlet or pale blue sateen, then put a wreath of ivy with the berries all round, and a little bunch in the centre. You can buy the leaves and berries so much a dozen at a draper's or artificial florist's. Useful Articles. INEXPENSIVE AND OUICKLY MADE SLIPPERS FOR HOUSE OR BEDROOM WEAR. . Quite a novelty in slippers are made of braid, and the idea may be followed out with other materials which will readily suggest them- selves to a clever worker. These slippers look very pretty, however, in braid, and are certainly more sightly than carpet slippers, and the cost being only a few pence, they come within every one's reach. Any artistic combination of colours may be used, but we should advise scarlet and black, blue and crimson, dark green and crimson, &c. We will take for model. No. i. blue and crimson. Procure a few lengths of braid (ordinary worsted braid which can be bought cheaply) of each colour, a yard of stiff black net, a yard of swansdown calico. These will make two pairs. Now unpick an old slipper and cut out the shape in the stiff net. It should be all in one piece, the only join being at the back. Take a length of the braid and pin it on the slipper at the end, cany it to the toe and pin it there; cover the whole of the slipper lengthways in this manner, pinning each piece. Now take the blue braid and darn it in and out cross ways, till it looks like the squares of a chessboard ; 138 then with fine cotton the colour fasten each square with a stitch here and there and trim all the edges round. Join the slipper up. Take your piece of swansdown, join it and lightly tack over the net ; bind the slipper round the instep with a piece of crimson braid. To further improve the slipper, herringbone lengthways between each row with silk or wool. The diamond pattern is done-by darn- ing the second colour diagonally, doing the toe part in two pieces. To vary the front you can have a straight piece of the black braid right up the centre and cross two small pieces of the coloured in the middle, then work a little cross in silk at top and bottom. SCENT OR JEWEL CASE. Materials : — A pasteboard box, sufficient white or pale pink quilted satin to line it ; blue plush to cover the outside of the box and lid, ^ measuring rather amply, about a yard of cotton wool, and cord to sew along all the joins and round the lid, one-eighth of a yard of olive-green plush, cut on the bias, and a pale pink rose, or bouquet of your favourite flower. To proceed : take the box to pieces, and cover all the pieces with cotton wool, under calico, sewn firmly. Then sew your quilted lining to the edges, sewing it strongly to the calico. After this sew the box firmly together, very strongly indeed. If the lining, &c.,is too thick to allow of the lid moving freely, sew a small piece of tape or muslin, &c., between the lid and the box. The piece you sew in should be about a quarter of an inch wide or less, just enough to give the box-lid play. Now cover the outside of the box with plush, measuring and fitting the plush when the lid of the box is shut down. Sew neatly and strongly at all joins, and when this is done add a piece of soft cloth at the bottom for the box to stand on pleasantly. When this is all finished, sew cord round all the joins, lid, &c., wherever necessary. Take the green plush and make a fold round in the centre of the lid, fasten it, then place thereon your bouquet, or rose and leaves, as the case may be. Lay in the box a bottle of scent, or fancy soap in an elegant wrapper, a hand- kerchief, or other offering. The cost of above is according to the size and quality of materials. Small gilt knobs can be added or not, as preferred, for the box to stand on. They are not necessary. YUM YUM'S CATCHALL For Letters, Scraps, &c. Materials :— Quarter of a yard Japanese drapery, one gilt or brass ring about two inches in diameter, and twelve little gold crescent pendants or fancy balls to trim the ends. None of these are very expensive, but of course they vary according to the quality you buy. Pretty chintz or sateen with a Japanese pattern would serve. The piece of goods must be about nine or ten inches wide, and thirty or thirty-two inches long. Make a narrow hem down each side, i.e., just fasten down the edge, and a somewhat broader hem at each end, say about three- quarters of an inch. Turn up six inches at one end to form a pocket, sewing the sides on the inside of the pocket. You have now a piece about nine inches wide by twenty-four inches long. Sew the pendants to each end, then put one end through the brass ring. Arrange it prettily, so that the front piece is a little shorter than the back, the pocket being at the back oft he back piece, and the right side of the Catchall exposed to the public gaze. A PERFECT GUIDE TO HOME DBESSMAKING. Mrs. Leach's Practical Family Dressmaker, Published Monthly, Price 2d., of all Newsvendors, Contains 60 illustrations of the latest designs for Ladies' and Children's Costumea Mantles Underclothing, 4c., with full instructions How to Cut Out and Make, with quantity of material required ; also Amateur Dressmaking, giving every detail of dressmaking, enabling novices to turn out perfect dresses ; Home Decorations, Cookery Receipts," and a varied amount of useful information Post free 3d. R. S. Caktwkioht, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. -'*-'^"' THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. PINAFORE MADE OF TWO HANDKERCHIEFS, With Scalloped Edges. This pretty pinafore is made of two pocket handkerchiefs, using those with the edges scalloped all round in a colour. The prettiest effect is obtained with those handkerchiefs generally used for making up caps, as they have a charming floral pattern above the scallop. You will require also a small piece of mull or Indian muslin, two and a half yards of narrow ribbon, blue, or any colour to match the scallop or floral design, one and a half yards of narrow insertion lace, and one yard of Valenciennes lace edging. Take one handkerchief and cut off the border in the following manner : begin in the middle of one side and cut along half that side, then along all the next side, and then along half the next, leaving the remainder of the border on the handkerchief Cut the border off the other handkerchief in exactly the same way. You will now find you have the two handkerchiefs in the shape S 4 6 8 7 8 lOi 1 Fig. I. of fig. I, and the borders in the shape of fig. 2. Now cut off one corner from each border at the line marked I in figure 2, leaving the corresponding comer uncut. Take the two little pieces and join them at 2 to the edges marked 2. Do this to each border, and then the two pieces will be found in the shape of fig. 3. Now join the edges marked 3 in figure 3, and you will thus get one whole piece, which is to form the frill trimming round the neck. These handkerchiefs are generally made in a rather small size, and therefore a piece of mull or Indian muslin must be neatly added at the top (4 in figure i) of each handkerchief For this cut two pieces half an inch wider than the frill border, and the same length as the edge at 4 in figure i, and hem it on neatly. Then add a little shoulder strap of the muslin about four inches long and one inch wide, and sew them on at 5 and 6 in figure I. Now cut a placket hole about three or four inches long down the centre of one hand- kerchief (7 in figure l), this forming the back, and hem round the 2 , ^ 2 1 FiG. 2. opening. The four sides marked 8, figure i, are then to be hemmed. The insertion and frill round the neck should next be put on. .Sew the insertion at the edge of the added piece of muslin, passing straight along the neck and shoulder straps, all round, turning in the raw edges of the muslin neatly. The frill must now be gathered up by running a thread along. Fix the corners 1^9 in figure 3) at the centre of the shoulders, and sew the frill on to the muslin under the lo%ver edge of the insertion. The middle of the frill should be marked and fitted to the middle of the front handkerchief Now sew the narrow lace edging on to the top insertion edge, putting it Fig. 3. on a little full. Now add a row of insertion round the waist for ribbon to be run in, first fastening the edges (fo in figure i) a little way over those in the second handkerchief Begin to put the inser- tion on a little way below the placket hole, and carry it right round the whole pinafore to the back again, where you must leave a small opening, and then run a piece of the blue ribbon through the inser- tion, and draw it up a little, tied at the back. Run another piece of ribbon through the insertion at the neck. Make two little bows of the ribbon, and sew on one at each shoulder. Knitting. HOLDER FOR TEAPOT. Half oz. of light and \ oz. of dark crimson Berlin wool and 2 steel needles. No. 14. Cast on 55 stitches with the light shade. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — knit 10, join on the dark, but do not break off the light ; the wool must be carried along the back; knit 7 with dark, knit 7 with light, knit 7 with dark, knit 7 with light, knit 7 with dark, knit 10 with light shade. 3rd row — knit 10 light, bring the light wool forward, and take the dark back between the needles, knit 7 dark, bring fonvard the dark and take the light back, knit 7 light; arrange the wool as before and knit 7 dark, then knit 7 light, again 7 dark, and finish with 10 light. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until there are 4 ribs of the dark shade on the right side, or 8 rows. Next row — knit 17 light, 7 dark, 7 light, 7 dark, i7hght. Repeat this until there are4ribs of the dark, then reverse the colours again by knitting 10 light, 7 dark, 7 light, 7 dark, 7 light, 7 dark, 10 light. Continue this until there are 13 squares knitted in the length. Cast off and sew up the ends of the centre part,leavingthe light edge open ; finish with 2 small balls made of the dark crimson wool at each of the four comers. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. $^J^^: FINE SCARF. Half an ounce of Pyrenees wool and a pair of steel pins, No. lo, Bell Gauge, are required. Commence with the edging, for which cast on 8 stitches, ist row — slip a stitch, having the thread in front, then pass the thread to the back, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. 2nd row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i. 3rd row — slip a stitch, having the thread in front, then pass the thread to the back, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 4th row — knit 6, make i, take 2 together, knit I. 5th row— slip a stitch, having the thread in front, then pass the thread to the back, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 6th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I. 7th row — slip a stitch, having the thread in front, then pass the thread to the back, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 6. 8th row — knit 8, make I, take 2 together, knit i. 9th row — slip a stitch, having the thread in front, then pass the thread to the back, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. loth row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i. nth row — slip a stitch, having the thread in front, then pass the thread to the back, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. 12th row — cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make i, take 2 together, knit i. Repeat these 12 rows until there are 7 patterns worked, then pick up the edge stitches, of which there should be 42, and then the first 8 on another pin, and Work them thus: knit 3, make I, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 toge- ther, knit I. Now commence the border of the scarf, ist row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. 2nd row— knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, knit 4. 3rd row — knit 6, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 4th row — knit 6, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 5th row— knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 to- gether, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 6th row —knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit J, knit 42, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, knit 6. 7th row — knit 8, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 6. 8th row— knit 8, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make I, knit 7, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, slip I stitch, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 2, take 2 toge- ther, make i, knit 7, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 to- gether, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 9th row —knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3 knit 3, make 140 1, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. loth row— knit 2, purl i,knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make I, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit i, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. nth row — cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make i, take 2 together, knit r, knit 3, * take 2 together, make I, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. 12th row — cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make I, take 2 together, knit i,knit 3, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 7, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, slip i stitch, take 2 toge- ther, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 7, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 2, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 to- gether, knit I. 13th row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. 14th row — knit 3, purl I, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * knit 2, take 2 to- gether, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make I, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 15th row — knit 6. make l, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 4. 1 6th row — knit 6, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 4, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, slip i stitch, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 17th row — knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 5, take 2 together, make i, knit 2j take 2 together, make i, knit i, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make I, take 2 toge- ther, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. i8th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 3, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit i, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, knit 6. 19th row — knit 8, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make I, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit $, make i, take 2 together, knit 6, 20th row — knit 8, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 4, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make I, slip i stitch, take 2 to- gether, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make I, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 toge- ther, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 21st row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 5, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit I, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 22nd row — knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 3, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 to- gether, make i, knit i, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. 23rd row — cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. 24th row — same as 12th row. 25th row — same as 13th row. 26th row — same as 14th row. 27th row — knit 6, make I, take 2 to- gether, knit I, knit 3, * take 2 together, make i,knit 2,take2 together, make I, knit 5, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit I, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 28th row — knit 6, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 7, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, slip i stitch, take 2 toge- ther, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 7, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 2, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 to- gether, make 2, take 2 together. 29th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make I, knit I, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together,, make 2, take 2 together. 30th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * knit 2, take 2 to- gether, make I, knit 2, take 2 together, make i,knit 3, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, knit 6. 31st row — knit 8 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 6. 32nd row— knit 8, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 4, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make I, slip i stitch, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make I, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 33rd row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3,* make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit 5, take 2 toge- ther, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit I, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 34th row — knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, m.ake i, take 2 toge- ther, knit I, knit 3, * knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 3, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit i, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit g. 35th row — cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 2. make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, take 2 together, make I, take 2 together, make i, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make 1, take 2 together, knit 9. 36th row — cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 4, make 1, take 2 to- gether, knit 2, make i, slip i stitch, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i,knit 2, take 2 together, make I, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. 37th row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3,* make i,take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 5, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 to- gether, make i, knit i, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. 38th row— knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, *knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit 3, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit i, repeat Irom *, knit 3, knit 3, make I, take 2 together, knit 4. 39th row — knit 6, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 40th row — knit 6, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 7, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, slip i stitch, take 2 toge- ther, pass the shpped stitch over, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make I, knit 7, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 2, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 to- gether, make 2, take 2 together. 41st row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 42nd row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * knit 2, take 2 toge- ther, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 6. 43rd row — knit 8, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * take 2 together, make I, knit 2, take 2 together, make 1, knit S, make I, take 2 together, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 6. 44th row — same as 8th row. 45th row — same as 9th row. 46th row — same as loth row. 47th row — same as 23rd row. 48th row — same as 36th row. 49th row — same as 37th row. 50th row — same as 38th row. 51st row — knit 6, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, *knit 2, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit I, take 2 together, make i, knit 2, take 2 together, make i, knit 3, repeat from *, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 52nd row — same as 16th row. 53rd row — same as 17th row. 54th row — same as 1 8th row. 5Sth row — same as 7th row. 56th row — knit 8, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit I, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. S7th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make 1, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 to- gether. 58th row— knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make 1, take 2 together, knit 9. 59th row — cast ofi 6 stitches, knit 4, make 1, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. 60th row — Cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit I, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. This completes the border of the scarf, next row commences spider web pattern for centre. 1st row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * make i, knit i, make i, slip i, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, take 2 together ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. 2nd row— knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 3rd row— knit 6, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * make i, knit 3, make i, slip I, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 4th row — knit 6, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 5th row — knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * slip I, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, take 2 together, make i, knit i, make i ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 6th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 6. 7th row — knit 8, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, ♦ slip I, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make I, knit 3, make I ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit 6. 8th row — knit 8, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 9th row — knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * make i, knit i, make i, slip i, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, take 2 together ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 to- gether, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. loth row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. nth row — Cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * make i, knit 3, make i, slip i, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. 12th row — Cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. 13th row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * slip i, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, take 2 together, make i, knit I, make I ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 to- gether, make 2, take 2 together, knit I. 14th row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. 15th row — knit 6, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 3, * slip I, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make I, knit 3, make I ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 4. i6th row — knit 6, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 17th row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * make i, knit i, make i, slip i, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make I, take 2 together ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. i8th row— knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit I, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 6. 19th row — knit 8, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * make I, knit 3, make I, slip i, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 6. 20th row — knit 8, make I, take 2 together, knit i, knit 42, knit 3, make 1 , take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 21st row — knit 2, purl i, knit 2 purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * slip I, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, take 2 together, make I, knit i, make i ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together. 22nd row — knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, make i, take 2 together, knit I, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. 23rd row — Cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make i, take 2 together, knit i, knit 3, * slip I, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 3, make 1 ; repeat from * 5 times, knit 3, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, knit 9. 24th row — Cast off 6 stitches, knit 4, make i, take 2 to- gether, knit I, knit 42, knit 3, make i, take 2 together, make 2, take 2 together, knit i. Repeat these 24 rows about 10 times, or until the scarf measures nearly a yard, then begin at the ist row of the border, and work the 60 rows, then cast off loosely (a wooden pin is best used), all but the right stitches which form the edging, and work the first 12 rows until there are 7 patterns worked, cast off, and sew to the end of scarf. Then wash the scarf in warm soapy water, rinse and dip it into warm weak gum water, and while wet, pin it out on to a cloth, taking care to keep the same width. A Handsome Cloth Gilt Case, with Fancy Medallion May now be had for binding the first Twelve Numbers of the Fancy Work-Basket ; also Index to same. Price is. 3d., post free. R. S. Caktwright, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, or by order of all Newsagents. 141 THi; FANCY WORK-BASKET. BALL FOR CHILD. Materials required : — i skein double Berlin wool, a good orange colour, a few yards of shaded green single Berlin wool, and a short length of either dark green or light brown for the stalk, double Berlin wool, 4 bone needles, No. ii, and 2 steel needles. No. i4,Wal- ker's Bell Gauge, and a long darning needle. With the orange wool, and No. n needles, cast on 6 stitches, 2 stitches on each of 3 needles. 1st round — purl. 2nd round — * make a stitch by lifting the loop from the last round, and knitting it, knit i stitch plain, make a stitch, purl I ; repeat from * twice more. 3rd round and every alternate round — purl. 4th round — * make i stitch, knit 2 plain, make i, purl 2 ; repeat from * twice more. 6th round — * make I, knit I pl-ain, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. 8th round — * make 1, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. loth round — * make I, purl I, plain 2, purl 2; repeat from * all round. 12th round — * make i, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. 14th round — * make l, plain 1, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. l6th round — * make I stitch, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. iSlh round — * make I, purl I, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. 20th round — * make l, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. 22nd round — * make i, plain i, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. 24th round — * plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round. 25th round — purl; repeat these last 2 rounds 5 times more. The remaining part of the ball is knit- ted backwards and forwards in rows, and is to correspond with the first 22 rounds, decreasing where the increasings were, ist row — * knit 2 together, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * to end of the 3rd needle, turn back. 2nd row and every alternate row — knit plain, slipping the first stitch. 3rd row — * purl 2 together, purl i, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 5 times more. 5th row — * purl 2 together, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 5 times more. 7th row — * knit 2 together, plain I, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 5 times more. 9th row — * knit 2 together, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 5 times more, nth row — * purl 2 together, purl i, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 5 times more. 13th row—* purl 2 together, plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 5 times more. I5tli ro\'; — * knit 2 together, plain I, purl 2 ; repeat from * 5 times more. 17th row — * knit 2 together, purl 2 ; repeat from * 5 times more, together, purl i ; repeat from * 5 times more. 19th row — * purl 2 1st row — * purl together ; repeat from * 5 times more. Cast off. For the leaves — with the shaded green wool and the needles No. 14, cast on I stitch. 1st row — make a stitch by putting wool over needle, knit i plain. 2nd row — make a stitch, purl 2. 3rd row— make a stitch, plain 3. 4th row — make a stitch, purl 4. 5th row — make a stitch, plain 5. 6th row — make a stitch, purl 6. 7th row — make a stitch, slip a stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knit- ted together, make a stitch, knit I plain, make a stitch, plain 3. 8th row — make a stitch, purl 3 together, purl 5 ; repeat the last 2 rows 6 times more. 21st row — make a stitch, knit 3 together, plain 4. 22nd row — make a stitch, purl 3 together, purl 3. 23rd row — make a stitch, knit 3 together, plain 2. 24th row — make a stitch, purl 3 together, purl I. 25th row— knit 3 together, fasten off. Knit 142 5 more leaves same as first leaf. For the stalk — with double Berlin wool, either green or brown, and the same needles the leaves were knitted with, cast on 30 stitches. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. Cast off. To Make up the Ball. Fill the ball with white wadding or short lengths of white wool, and sew up the opening, drawing in the top close, then sew on the 6 leaves, taking care to cover where it was sewed up ; with a darning needle and a length of the wool the stalk was knitted with, sew the stalk in centre of the leaves, and put the needle through the ball, make a small knot by putting the wool a few times round the needle at the point of the ball, then draw the needle again through the ball to the stalk end. Fasten oflT. Tut** li h"' ' I ■ '* . l^c*. ^ < y - i "■ -. '. - . : ^ 4 I ®j ; -I :^-4" 'i'i LADY'S PETTICOAT. Our model was a small-sized lady's petticoat, and measured I yard and j wide at the bottom, but anj^ size required can be made by casting on more stitches, allowing 31 stitches for each pattern (or scallop) of the border, which for every additional pattern will measure 7 inches. For a petticoat same size as model, i^ lbs. of Shetland coloured, best quality petticoat wool and 2 ozs. (c skein) of a rich crimson (same kind of wool) will be required, 4 long bone or vulcanite needles, without knobs, No. 8, gauged by H. Walker's Bell Gau ;e. For the border or edge, scallop shell pattern. Cast on with the Shetland coloured wool 279 stitches, 93 on each of 3 needles; knit the first 4 rounds plain. 5th round — * make a stitch by putting the wool round the needle, knit 2 stitches together; repeat from * all round ; knit the next 5 rounds plain. When the petticoat is finished the first 4 plain rounds are turned up on the wrong side and hemmed ; the holes in the 5th round then form a mitred edge. Now commence the pattern. 1st round — * make i stitch by lifting the loop from the round below, and knitting it as a stitch. All the made stitches in this pattern are made in this way except those in the 5th round of the border. Knit i stitch slantways (to knit a stitch slantways, put the needle from the front to the back, and so knit the back part of the stitch), * *, purl 5 stitches, knit i slantways ; repeat from * * 4 times more, then repeat from * to the end of the round. 2nd round — knit same as 1st round except that there are no stitches made in the 2nd round, and the made stitches of the 1st round are knitted plain. 3rd round — * knit 1, make i, knit 1 slant- ing * *, purl 5, knit I slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make I ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 4th round — * knit 2, knit 1 slanting * *, purl 5, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 1 ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 5th round — * knit 2 plain, make i, knit 1 slanting * *, purl 5, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 1 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 6th round — * knit 3 plain, knit i slant- ing, * * purl 3, purl 2 together, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 2 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 7th round — * knit 3 plain, make 1, knit 1 slanting, * * purl 4, knit 1 slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 2 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 8th round — * knit 4 plain, knit I slanting, * * purl 4, knit 1 slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 3 . plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 9th round — * knit 4 plain, make 1, knit I slanting, * * purl 4, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 3 plain; repeat from * to the end of the round. loth round — * knit 5 plain, knit I slanting * *, purl 4, knit 1 slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 4 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round, nth round — * knit 5 plain, make i, knit I slanting, * * purl 4, knit I slanting ; THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 4 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 12th round— * knit 6 plain, knit i slanting, * * purl 2, purl 2 together, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit J plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 13th round — knit 6 plain, make i, knit i slanting * *, purl 3, knit I slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i,knit 5 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 14th round — * knit 7 plain, knit i slanting * *, purl 3, knit I slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 6 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 15th round — * knit 7 plain, make i, knit i slanting * *, purl 3, knit I slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 6 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. i6th round — * knit 8 plain, knit i slant- ing * *, purl 3, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 7 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 17th round—* knit 8 plain, make a stitch, knit i slanting * *, purl 3, knit I slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make I, knit 7 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 1 8th round — * knit 9 plain, knit i slant- ing * *, purl I, purl 2 together, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 8 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 19th rounds — * knit 9 plain, make I, knit I slanting * *, purl 2, knit I slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make I, knit 8 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 20th round — * knit 10 plain, knit I slanting * *, purl 2, knit I slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 9 plain; repeat from * to the end of the round. 21st round — * knit 10 plain, make i, knit i slanting * *, purl 2, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 9 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 22nd round — * knit 1 1 plain, knit i slanting * *, purl 2, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 10 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 23rd round — * knit 1 1 plain, make i, knit i slanting * *, purl 2, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 10 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 24th round — * knit 12 plain, knit i slant- ing ** purl 2, together, knit i slanting; repeat from ** 4 times more, knit 11 plain ; repeat from • to the end of the round. 25th round — * knit 12 plain, make i, knit I slanting * *, purl i, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 11 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 26th round — * knit 13 plain, knit I slanting * *, purl i, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit 12 plain, repeat from * to the end of the round. 27th round — * knit 13 plain, make i, knit 1 slanting * *, purl i, knit i slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, make i, knit 12 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 28th round — * knit 14 plain, * *, knit 2 together, slanting ; repeat from * * 4 times more, knit I slanting, knit 13 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 29th round — * knit 14 plain, make i, * * knit 6 stitches slanting, make i, knit 13 stitches plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 30th round — * knit 15 plain, * * knit 6 stitches slanting, knit 14 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 31st round — * knit 15 plain, make i, * * knit 2 together, slanting; repeat from * * twice more, make i, knit 14 plain ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 32nd round — ^* knit 16 plain, * * knit I slanting ; repeat from ** twice more, knit 15 plain; repeat from * to the end of the round. 33rd round — * knit 16 plain, knit 3 stitches together slanting, knit 15 plain; repeat from * to the end of the round. 34th round — knit plain. The edge of scallop shell pattern is now completed. For the border, with the same wool — purl 5 rounds, then knit 3 rounds plain. 9th round of the border — in this round the coloured pattern is com- menced ; the pattern forms leaves, and is knitted thus : there are 6 stitches in each pattern; take care before beginning the leaves to see if the stitches on the needles will divide by 6; if not, either make a stitch or decrease so that they will come in properly ; * knit 3 stitches plain with the Shetland coloured wool, 3 with the crimson wool ; repeat from * all round. loth round — knit I stitch with crimson, * 3 stitches with the Shetland colour, 3 with crimson ; repeat from * all round, end the round with 2 crimson, nth round — knit 2 stitches with crimson, * 3 with Shetland colour, 3 with crimson ; repeat from * all round, end the round with i crimson. 12th round — knit with the crimson wool all round. 13th round — knit with the Shetland colour all round. 14th round — knit with the crimson all round. 15th round — knit 2 stitches with the crimson wool, * 3 stitches with the Shetland colour, 3 with crimson ; repeat from * all round, end the round with i crimson stitch. i6th round — knit I stitch with crimson, * 3 with Shetland colour, 3 with crimson; repeat from * all round, end the round with 2 crimson. 17th round — * 3 stitches Shetland colour, 3 crimson ; repeat from * all round. 1 8th round and next 2 rounds — plain with Shetland colour. Repeat from the ist round of the border once more. 41st round and 4 following rounds — purl. 46th round — plain. This round finishes the border. Fasten off the crimson wool by threading a rug needle and running the end of the wool through a few stitches on the wrong side. The crimson wool is only used for the patterns of leaves. For the upper part of the petticoat knit with the Shetland colour thus ; there are 10 stitches in each pattern and it is knitted in rows; should the stitches on the needles not divide by 10, decrease a stitch occasionally till they do; there should be 27 patterns of 10 stitches each, ist row—* purl 9, knit i plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 2nd row—* purl 2 stitches, knit 8 plain ; repeat from • across the row. 3rd row—* purl 7 stitches, knit 3 stitches plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 4th row — * purl 4 stitches, knit 6 stitches plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 5lh row — purl 5 stitches, knit 5 stitches plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 6th row — * purl 6 stitches, knit 4 plain"; repeat from * all across the row. 7th row — * purl 3 stitches, knit 7 plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 8th row — * purl 8 stitches, knit 2 plain; repeat from * to end of the row. 9th row — * purl i, knit 9 plain ; repeat from * all across the row. loth row — * purl i stitch, knit 9 stitches plain ; repeat from * all across the row. nth row — * purl 8 stitches, knit 2 plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 12th row — * purl 3, knit 7 plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 13th row — * purl 6 stitches, knit 4 plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 14th row — * purl 5 stitches, knit 5 plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 15th row--^* purl 4, knit 6 plain ; repeat from * all across the row. i6th row — * purl 7, knit 3 plain ; repeat from * across the row. 17th row — * purl 2, knit 8 plain ; repeat from * across the row. l8th row—* purl 9, knit l plain ; repeat from * across the row. The first pattern is now completed. Repeat the pattern twice more. S5th row — in this row there are 27 decreasings, * purl 2 together, purl 7, knit i plain; repeat from * all across the row. 56th row — *purl 2, knit 7 plain ; repeat from * all across the row. 57th row — * purl 5, plain 3; repeat from * all across the row. 58th row — * purl 4, plain 5 ; repeat from * across the row. 59th row — * purl 4, plain 5; repeat from * across the row. 6oth row — * purl 6, plain 3 ; repeat from * across the row. 6 ist row — same as s6th row. 62nd row — * purl 8, plain i ; repeat from * across the row. 63rd row — same as 62nd row. Repeat from 56th row 3 times more. 88th row — same as 56th row. 89th row — same as S7th row. 90th row — same as 58th row. 91st row — same as 59th row. 92nd row — same as 60th row. 93rd row— same as 6 ist row. 94th row — same as 62nd row. The Band. The band is knitted in brioche stitch, which is knitted thus : make a stitch by putting wool round needle, slip i as if about to purl it, knit 2 together. Every row is the same, but it requires 2 rows to make I brioche row. At the left hand end of the row, hold- ing the right side of the petticoat towards you, cast on 6 stitches, which always knit plain like a garter. When 10 brioche rows are knitted change the needles, and with 2 long bone needles. No. 10, knit 10 more brioche rows, remembering to knit the 6 edge stitches plain. Then again change the needles and with 2 No. 12 knit 10 more brioche rows. In the next row make a row of holes for a cord to pass through thus : * knit 3 together, make 2 by putting the wool round the needle twice, knit 2 together ; repeat from * all across the row. Knit the next row 2 purl, 3 plain all across, taking care to knit 2 stitches wherefthe 2 made stitches come. Repeat from the last row 3 times and cast off, by knitting i stitch, put it back on the left-hand needle, *knit 2 together and put it back on left- hand needle ; repeat from * till all the stitches are off. Make a cord the length required by taking 4 ply of the wool and plaiting it in a plait of 3. Add tassels, which make a nice finish. PATTERN FOR MUFFLERS. This stitch is suitable for any purpose for which solid knitting is required, such as mufflers, jackets, petticoats, &c. Cast on any number of stitches which can be divided by 3. 1st row — purl i, make I by putting the wool over the needle, slip I ; repeat. 2nd and following rows — purl 2 together, make l, slip i ; repeat. End the row by purling I stitch. To cast off — knit 2 together, knit i, draw the ist stitch over the second, * knit 2 together, draw last stitch over decreased stitch, knit I, draw last stitch over ; repeat from *. 143 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. CHILD S COMBINATIONS FOR FOUR YEARS. Procure 6 ozs of soft white wool (or scotch fingering will do), 7 small bone buttons, and a pair of long No. 12 steel knitting pins. Commence at the bottom of right leg by casting on 81 stitches loosely ; knit 1 plain row. 1st pattern row for the border — * knit I, make i (by putting wool over the needle ; always make I in this way in these direc- tions unless otherwise stated), knit 2 to- gether, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit I ; repeat trom * to end of the row. 2nd row — purl all. 3rd row — * knit 2, make l,knit 2 together,knit I, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2; repeat from * to end of row. 4th row — purled. 5th row — * knit 3, make I, knit 3 together, make i, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row. 6th row — purled. 7th row — same as ist pattern row. 8th row — purl 2 and purl 3 together alternately till reduced to 49 stitches on the needle. 9th row — purl all. loth row — plain knitting, i ith row — knit 2, purl 2 alternately to end. I2th row — purl 2, knit 2 alternately, purl i at end. 13th row — purl 2, knit 2. 14th row— knit 2, purl 2. 15th row— knit 2, purl 2. i6th row — purl 2, knit 2. If the knitter prefers, from the loth row to the 16th row might be plain knitted ; it forms a band for the knee. 17th row— purl all. iSth row — plain, ist pattern row for the leg and rest of combinations — purl I, * knit I , purl i , knit I, purl 2 ; repeat from *. There will be 3 stitches over at the end, which knit in pattern as far as they will go thus — knit i, purl i, knit I. Always do this when the pattern comes in not perfect. 2nd row — knit the stitches that were purled in the last row, and purl the stitches that were knitted. 3rd row — purl i, *knit I, purl 2, knit i, purl I ; repeat from *. 4th row — same as 2nd row. 5th row — increase l by picking up the loop below the ist stitch, purl i, *knit I, purl I, knit I, purl 2 ; repeat from * before knitting the last stitch, increase i by picking up the loop below the last stitch. 6th row — same as 4th row. Increase again in the 7th row in the same way as in the 5th row, keeping the pattern perfect. Continue this increas- ing every alternate row until I18 stitches are on the needle. Then always knit 6 plain stitches at each end of the needle, on the Ist front needle and at the commencement of the needle knit 6 plain, knit 2 together, and continue to decrease in this way on the front needle and at the commencement of the needle till the stitches are reduced to 102. Now divide the stitches, knitting 53 in pattern, then turn and knit back, turn, knit back in pattern 49 stitches and con- tinue knitting backwards and forwards, keeping the pattern and leaving 4 stitches each time till only 4 are left to knit. Then knit back straight across to the other end of the needle, but after knitting the 1st 4 plain stitches, make a button-hole thus— make i, knit 2 to- gether. Now commence the left leg and work up the same as for the right, omitting to make the button-hole before knitting straight across the needle after finishing, leaving the 4 stitches for the long part of the leg. After the left leg is finished, have the work at the commencement of the long part of the leg knit in pattern to within 12 stitches of the end of the needle, have the short part of the right leg towards you and knit the 1st 12 stitches of that needle with the last 12 of the other needle by taking 2 stitches together from each needle at the same time ; this unites them. Knit to end in pattern and back again. Now knit 6 stitches plain, then knit 2 together for 25 times, knit on in pattern till within 56 stitches of the other end, knit 2 together 25 times, knit 6 plain. Knit on the 143 stitches for S4 rows, keeping the pattern perfect, making a button-hole on the 4th row after the 25 decreases in the same way as the 1st button-hole is made and on the same side, and make a button-hole over this 144 every 14th row until 6 in all are made. Now knit in pattern to within 36 stitched of the end of the needle, turn. Knit to within 36 stitches of the other end of needle. Slip the stitches left at each end on some wool and continue on the 71 centre stitches for 26 rows. Cast off 14 from each end for shoulder, put the remaining stitches on some wool to take up after the other 2 sides are knitted for the top. Return to the stitches left and knit on them in pattern for 26 rows, knitting each side, of course, separately, and keeping the 6 plain stitches at the outside edge. Cast off 14 stitches for each shoulder to correspond with the other cast off stitches. Sew the shoulders neatly together, pick up 4 stitches from where they are joined, take up the centre stitches that were left on wool, there will be 94 stitches for the top, knit 2 plain and 2 purl for 6 rows and cast off loosely. In the 2nd row make a button-hole to come over the others. For sleeves — cast on 54 stitches, knit I plain row. ist pattern row — * knit I, make i by putting the wool over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit l ; repeat from *. 2nd row — purled. 3rd row — * knit 2, make l, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 ; repeat from *. 4th row — purled. 5th row — knit 3, make I, knit 3 together, make i, knit 3. 6th row — knit 2 plain and take 2 together alternately, thus decreasing. 7th row — purl I, * knit i, purl i, knit i, purl 2 ; repeat from *. 8th row — knit the purl and purl the knit stitches in last row. 9th row— purl I, *knit I, purl 2, knit I, purl I ; repeat from ''^. loth row — same as 8th row. i ith row — increase i by picking up the loop below the 1st stitch, purl ly* knit i, purl I, knit i, purl 2 and repeat from* ; end by increasing I before the last stitch. 1 2th row — same as loth. Increase again in the 13th row same as in the i ith row, keeping the pattern perfect till 54 stitches are raised, then cast off all. Sew up the sleeves and. sew them in; pvit on 7 buttons to correspond with the holes. LACE PATTERN. This is a handsome and useful pattern, suited for different pur- poses, according to the materials used. Our model was knitted with fine Shetland wool and 2 of Walker's bone knitting needles. No. II, gauged by his Bell Gauge, and would be a handsome finish for a knitted Shetland shawl. For trimming under-linen, use W. Evans & Co.'s superior six-cord white crochet cotton. No. 20, and 2 steel needles. No. 17. For dress trimming, &c., use Loom thread, No. 3J, and needles No. 17. For furniture trimming, a coarse number of Loom thread, which is ecru colour, can be used. It is to be had from A. E. K., Box 10, Post Office, Ballymena, price 6d. per skein. Cast on 28 stitches, and for ist row — slip a stitch, knit 2 plain, make I stitch by putting thread over the needle, knit 2 together, i plain, make a stitch, 2 together, i plain, make a stitch, 2 together, i plain, * make 3 stitches by putting thread 3 times round the needle, knit 4 stitches together, repeat from * '3 times more. 2nd row — knit 2 plain, * i purl, 3 plain (take care to knit 3 stitches from where the thread was put round the needle 3 times in last row), repeat from * 3 times more, i plain, ** make i stitch, knit 2 together, i plain, repeat from ** twice more. 3rd row — slip a stitch, 2 plain, * make i stitch, knit 2 together, i plain, repeat from * twice more, make 2 stitches by putting thread twice round the needle, knit 2 together, make 2 stitches, 2 together, ** make 2, knit 3 together, repeat from ** 3 times more. 4th row — * knit 2 plain, i purl, repeat from* 5 times more, 3 plain,** make I, knit 2 together, I plain, repeat from ** twice more. 5th row — slip a stitch, 2 THE FANCY WORK-BASKLT. plain, *make i, 2 together, i plain, repeat from * twice more, ** rnake 2, knit 2 together, repeat from ** 8 times more. 6th row— * 2 plain, I purl, repeat from * 8 times more, 3 plain, * make i, knit 2 together, i plain, repeat from * twice more. 7th row — slip I, 2 plain, *make i stitch, knit 2 together, i plain, repeat from* twice more, ** make i stitch, knit 2 together, repeat from ** 12 times more, i plain. 8th row — 30 plain, * make I stitch, knit 2 to- gether, I plain, repeat from * twice more. 9th row — slip i stitch, 2 plain, * make i stitch, knit 2 together, i plain, repeat from * twice more, 27 plain. loth row — cast off 1 1 stitches, then knit 18 plain, * make i stitch, knit 2 together, i plain, repeat from * twice more. Repeat from ist row till the length required is knitted. PATTERN FOR FRINGE. Either cotton, wool, or silk may be used, of any thickness. The material must be chosen to suit the purpose for which the fringe is required. With double Berlin wool use needles No. 8 of bone, tested by Walker's Bell Gauge. Cast on 6 or 8 stitches, according to the depth required. Any even number of stitches will do. Put the wool round the needle, * knit 2 together, make i by throwing the wool over the needle, repeat from*. All the rows are worked in the same way. When a sufficient length is worked, cast off 4 stitches, pull out the needle and ravel out the remain- ing stitches to form the fringe ends. These loops may be left as such or cut at the ends, according to fancy. PATTERN FOR SHAWLS. This pattern is suitable for either coarse or fine materials and for many purposes. Done in Shetland wool with bone needles, No. 8, Walker's Gauge, it makes a beautiful shawl. Cast on 19 stitches for each pattern, ist row — knit i, purl 2, knit i, make i by throw- ing the wool over the needle, knit i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, purl I, knit 2 together, knit I, purl i, knit I, slip I, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, purl I, knit 2 together, knit I, make I ; repeat. The last stitch at the end of the row must be worked thus: knit it without taking it off the left needle, put the right needle through the back of the stitch, knit it. In every case where the row ends with make I, it is to be worked in this way. 2nd row — purl 3, knit i, purl 2, knit I, purl 2, knit I, purl 4, knit 2, purl i ; repeat. 3rd row — knit i, purl 2, knit I, make i, knit i, make i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, purl i, knit 2 together, purl i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, purl i, knit 2 together, make 1, knit I, make l ; repeat. 4th row — purl 4, knit I, purl I, knit I, purl I, knit i, purl 5, knit 2, purl l; repeat. 5th row — knit I, purl 2, knit I, make i, knit 3, make I, slip i, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch, purl i, slip i, knit 2 to- gether, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch, make i, knit 3, make I. 6th row — purl 6, knit i, purl 7, knit 2, purl i; repeat. 7th row — knit i, purl 2, knit i, make I, knit 5, make 1, slip I, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch, make i, knit 5, make i; repeat. This completes one pattern. Repeat from ist row. BORDER FOR COUNTERPANES, &c. Cast on 9 stitches. 1st row — slip 7, wool over the needle, knit 2 to- gether, knit I, wool forward, knit 2 together, woo forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i. 2nd row — slip i, purl 7, make i by still keeping wool to the front, knit 2 together. 3rd row — slip i, woo' forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, wool forward, knit 2 together, woo forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i. 4th row— slip i, purl 8, wool at the back, knit 2 together. 5th row — slip i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit I. 6th row — slip i, purl 9, woo at the back, knit 2 together. 7th row— slip i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i. 8th row — slip i, purl 10, wool at the back, knit 2 together. 9th row — slip i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i. loth row — slip i, purl 11, wool at the back, knit 2 together, nth row— knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit i. 12th row — cast off 6 stitches, purl 6, wool still at the back, knit 2 together. SLEEPING SOCK. _ ' Procure 2 ozs. of white 3-ply fleecy wool and 2 knitting needles. No. 10. Commence at the sole by casting on loosely 26 stitches. 1st row — sHp I, increase i by picking up the loop tnat lies below the next stitch, knit it, knit the rest plain. Knit in this way until 36 stitches are on the needle, then mcrease at one end of needle only till 45 stitches are on the needle ; knit 4 rows plain without any increasings, then divide the stitches, taking 28 stitches for instep, and putting the 17 remaining stitches on wool to be picked up afterwards ; return to the 28 stitches, slip i, knit 27 ; continue for 23 more rows; now cast on 17 stitches to correspond with other side and knit 4 plain rows. Next row — shp i, knit 2 together, knit rest plain, then knit a row plain. Continue these 2 rows till reduced to 36 stitches. Then decrease ever>- row till reduced to 26 stitches, and cast off loosely. For the leg part- return to the 17 stitches left on wool, pick up 15 stitches along the instep, and 17 stitches along the other side. ist row — * knit 3, purl 4 and repeat to end. 2nd row — knit 4, purl 3 and repeat to end ; repeat these 2 last rows twice more, then * slip the 2 first stitches on a spare pin, knit 2, knit the 2 stitches off the spare pin, purl 3 and repeat from* to end of row. Next row — knit 3, purl 4 to end. Next row — knit 4, purl 3 to end ; repeat these 2 rows twice more, then slip the 2 first stitches on a spare pin, knit 2, knit the 2 stitches otf the spare pin, purl 3 and repeat. Continue until 5 cable twists are completed and 4 rows of the rib aftenvards, then cast all off loosely and sew up, neatly drawing the straight rows at the toe together. 145 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. PATTERN FOR SHAWLS, &c. vvjj. Cast on any number of stitches which can be divided by five. 1st row — knit 4, * make i, by putting the wool over the needle, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 3, repeat from*, end row with knit i. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — make i, by putting the wool over the needle, knit 2, draw the 1st stitch over the second, *knit 3, make i, slip i,knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one. Repeat from *, end row with knit 3. 4th row— purl. 5th row— knit i, * make I, slip i, knit I, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 3, repeat from* end row with knit 2. 6th row— purl. 7th row— knit 2, make i, slip I, knit I, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, *knit 3, make I , slip I, knit I , draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one. Repeat from *, end the row with knit i. 8th row— purl. 9th row— knit 3, make I, slip I, knit I, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one. Repeat. 10th row — purl. BORDER FOR SHAWLS. This handsome edging is suitable for various and numerous purposes. Worked in double Berlin wool it will serve as a border for a sofa blanket or coverlid. It will also make a good shawl trimming worked in finer wool. In cotton of all sizes it will look well, from that of the coarsest make for quilts to the finest used for children's dress frills and trimming for underlinen. Worked in double Berlin wool with two bone knitting needles, No. 4, Walker's Gauge, it measures 5^ inches in width. Worked in crochet cotton, No. 30, with two steel knitting needles. No. 16, it measures 2 inches in width, and will make a nice edging for underlinen. To begin. Cast on 16 stitches. 1st row — knit 16. 2nd row — slip I, knit 2, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit i, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, put the wool over the needle, knit i, put the wool over the needle, knit 2. 3rd row — purl 2, put the wool overthe needle, purl 3, put the wool overthe needle, purl 2 together, purl I, purl 2 together, put the wool over the needle, purl 2, knit 2, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit I. 4th row — slip i, knit 2, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 3, put the wool over the needle, slip i, knit I, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, put the wool over the needle, knit 5, put the wool over the needle, knit 3. 5th row — purl 2 to- gether, purl I, put the wool over the needle, purl 6, purl 2 together, put the wool over the needle, purl 4, knit 2, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit i. 6th row — slip I, knit 2, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, put the wool over the needle, knit r, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 toge- ther, knit 3, knit 2 together, put the wool over the needle, slip i, 146 draw the last stitch on the left hand needle over the next stitch, put the slipped stitch back on the left needle, knit 2 together. 7th row— purl 2 together, put the wool over the needle, purl 2 together, purl I, purl 2 together, put the wool over the needle, purl 3, put the wool over the needle, purl 2 together, purl I, knit 2, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit i. 8th row — slip i,knit 2, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 2 together again, put the wool over the needle, knit 5, put the wool over the needle, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit i. 9th row — purl 2 together, purl i, put the wool over the needle, purl 2 together, purl 6, put the wool over the needle, purl 2 together, knit I, put the wool over the needle, knit 2 together, knit i. KNITTED HELMET. Materials : double Berlin wool, 2| 02s., 4 bone pins No. 7. Cast on 93 stitches. Rib 32 rounds (knit 3, purl 3). Leave 39 * stitches on i needle, and with the remainder work backwards and forwards for 36 * rows, then cast off 18 on each side and go on with what is left in the centre for 30 rows more ; now take up the stitches along the side of the 36 rows and work all round with 4 needles as at first (knit 3, purl 3) for 1 5 rounds or more, as required. The ribs must be kept even or the appearance will be spoiled ; cast off and sew up the open places strongly. It can be increased a little in the head, between * and *, 2 or 3 stitches at the ends of the rows, according to the size of the head for which it is intended. In the same way 20 rounds instead of 15 in the last rounds will cover the face more. JACKET FOR INFANT. Procure 3 ozs. of soft white Lady Betty wool and a pair of No. 12 bone knitting pins. Cast on 139 stitches. 1st row— knit plain. 2nd row — purled. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — plain. 5th row — * purl 4, put the wool round the pin, purl I, put the w ool over the needle, purl 4, purl 3 together, repeat from * to end. 6th row — knitted, taking 3 stitches together over the 3 taken together in the last row. 7th row— purled. 8th row — same as 6th row. 9th row — same as 7th row. loth row — same as 8th row. nth row — plain, making holes to come over the holes made in 4th row by putting the wool over the needle. 12th row — purled. 13th row — same as nth row. Now knit straight on for 6 plain rows. You should now be at commence- ment of front needle. 1st pattern row— knit 6 plain, * purl 3, knit 2, repeat from *. End knit 6 plain. 2nd row — knit 6 plain, * purl 2, knit 3, repeat from *. End ofrow knit 6 plain. 3rd row— knit 6 plain, * knit 2, purl 3, repeat trom *. End of row knit 6 plain. 4th row — knit 6 plain, * knit 3, purl 2, repeat from *. End knit 6 plain. Repeat from ist pattern row to 4th row till it measures 6 inches, and 50 rows are done, counting from the top of border. Front. When this is done, to form the fronts — take 32 stitches for each side and knit for 38 rows, keepingthe pattern. After this is completed, knit 8 rows on 10 stitches for a shoulder strap, keeping the pattern, then cast them off loosely. Slip the 22 stitches on a piece of wool so that they will be ready to take up afterwards. Then go on with the other front, knitting e?cactly tjie same. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, For Back. Knit in pattern on the 58 remaining stitches for 38 rows. Then knit 8 rows on 10 stitches from each end for shoulder straps, and sew them up with the front straps. For Top. Pick up the stitches left on the wool and 7 stitches from each shoulder strap, making 96 stitches in all. Knit 6 plain rows. Then *knit 2, put wool over the needle, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end. This makes holes for ribbon to go through when finished to draw up the neck. Knit 4 more plain rows, and cast off loosely. Crochet a narrow edge of i double and I treble along the top. For Sleeve. Cast on 45 stitches and proceed from ist row of border up to the 13th row. Now knit 6 plain rows. Then proceed from ist pattern row to 4th, till 16 rows are done, counting from top of border. Now increase a .=titch at beginning and end of needle, and do the same every 4th row, till 59 stitches are on the needle. Cast off loosely. Sew up the sleeves, and sew them in. Run ribbon through the holes at the neck. LAD\'S LACE BOA. This most beautiful boa is knitted with white peacock ice wool. Five balls of the wool are required, 2 bone knitting pins. No. 8, by Walker's Gauge, 2 yards of narrow white tape, and 2 yards of white satin ribbon, h inch wide, with pearled edge. The boa will also look extremely well in black materials if preferred. The pattern of the knitted lace is the simplest that could be prepared, as, owing to the twisting propensities of the wool used, a more intricate design would not repay the worker for the labour spent upon it. Until the boa has been seen one cannot form any idea of the beautiful crisp soft- ness of this novel article. None that we have seen made of ordinary lace can at all compare with it; in addition to its beauty it possesses the recommendation of being inexpensive and very simple of manu- facture. We have no doubt that many knitters will like the idea; to all such we have no hesitation in recommending the design. To begin the lace, cast on 10 stitches, ist row — knit 10. 2nd row — put the thread over the needle before commencing, knit all the stitches except the last, put the needle through the back of it, and knit it. 3rd row — slip the 1st stitch as if going to purl it, knit all the stitches except the last, put the needle through the back of it, and knit it. Repeat the 2 last rows until there are 1 5 stitches on the needle. There should then be 10 rows done, nth row — same as 3rd row. I2th row — put the thread over the needle, knit 2 together, knit all the stitches except i, put the needle through the back of it, and knit it. 13th row — same as 3rd row. 14th row — same as 12th row. 15th row — same as 3rd row. i6th row— put the thread over the needle, knit 3 together, knit all the stitches except the last, put the needle through the back of it and knit it. Repeat the 15th and l6th rows until there are only 10 stitches remaining on the needle. Next row same as 3rd row. This completes one pattern. Begin again at ist row, the last stitch of which is to be worked from the back, as in the other rows. The five balls of wool are to be knitted up in 2 lengths of lace, each measuring 74 yards. To make up boa. Hem each end of the tape neatly. With a sewing needle and white thread, No. 50, join the extreme end of the plain edge of the lace to the edge of the tape a little above one of the hems at the end. Now pleat 2 patterns of the lace to the width of the tape. Sew it firmly to the side of the tape next you. Pleat 2 more patterns in the same way, and sew them to the opposite side of the tape just above where the first stitching was made. Continue working up the lace thus, taking care that the rows overlap evenly and sufficiently to completely hide the tape. When one length of the lace is used up, which should be at the middle of the length of tape, begin at the other end, and sew on the second piece in the same way, then finish off the middle of the boa where the two ends of the lace meet. Some neatness is here required to hide as much as possible the spot where the lace begins to fall in opposite directions. If necessary, the points of the lace just here may be lightly tacked in their places. Now cut the ribbon in half to make a bow for each end of the boa to be sewed to the extreme ends of the tape. Each bow should have 4 flat loops and two ends. The boa will then be complete. BOOTS FOR INFANT WITH SHAPED LEG. Materials required : — i-oz. skein of white single Berlin wool, best quality, 4 steel knitting needles, No. 10, gauged by H. Walker's patent Bell Gauge, and i yard of white ribbon about 4 inch wide. Cast on 56 stitches. 1st round — purl. 2nd round — * plain i, make i by putting wool over the needle, plain 2, slip I stitch, knit 2 together, take the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted to- gether, plain 2, make i ; repeat from * 6 times more. 3rd round — plain. 4th round — same as 2nd round ; repeat from ist round twice more. 13th round — same as ist round. 14th round — same as 2nd round. 15th round — same as 3rd round. l6th round— plain 3, * narrow 2 stitches same way as in 2nd round, plain 5 ; repeat from * 6 times more. 17th round — purl; in this round raise 2 stitches by taking up a loop in the last round, and knitting as a stitch. There should then be 44 stitches on needles. 18th round — * plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * all round, repeat the last 2 rounds 5 times more, but do not increase the number of stitches; there should be 44 stitches on the needles. 29th round — purl. 30th round — plain 2, purl 2 together, * plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 8 times more, knit 2 to- gether, purl 2. 31st round — purl. 32nd round — plain 2, purl i, * plain 2, purl 2; repeat from * 8 times more, plain i, purl 2. 33rd round — purl. 34th round — plain i, purl 2 together, * plain 2, purl 2; repeat from * 8 times more, knit 2 together, purl i. 35th round — purl. 36th round — * purl 2, plain 2 ; repeat from * 9 times more. 37th round — purl. 38th round — knit 2 together, * plain 2, purl 2 ; repeat from * 8 times more, knit 2 together. 39th round — purl. 40th round — plain 3, * purl 2, plain 2 ; repeat from * 7 times more, purl 3 ; repeat these last 2 rounds 4 times more. 49th round— puri. 50th round — in this round the holes are made for the ribbon to pass through at the ankle; * make 2 stitches by putting the wool twice over the needle, slip i stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together ; repeat from * 1 1 times more, make i stitch, knit 2 together. 51st round — knit i, purl i; these 2 stitches are knitted from the 2 made stitches of the last tow, knit i ; repeat II times more, knit 2 plain. 52nd round — purl. 53rd round — in this round the instep is commenced; on the ist needle knit 14 stitches plain, and for the instep, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, turn back, leaving 14 stitches on the left-hand needle, slip i, plain 9, turn back, * purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, plain 2, purl 2, turn back, slip i, plain 9, turn ; repeat from * 5 times more; then knit the 10 stitches of the instep in plain rows (garter stitch^ decreasing 2 stitches (by slipping I stitch, knitting 2 together, and drawing the slipped stitch over the knitted one) in the centre of ever)- 6th row 3 times. There should then be 4 stitches on the instep; knit them, which will bring the wool to the left side of the instep, on the side of which pick up 14 stitches, knit these 14 stitches, and the 14 stitches left on the needle plain, For the foot, ist row — plain 28 stitches, make a 147 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. stitch (by lifting a loop from the last row, and knitting it for a stitch), plain 4, make i, then pick up 14 stitches on the 2nd side of the instep, knit them, and the 14 stitches left on the needle plain. There should now be 62 stitches on the needle. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row— plain 28 stitches, make i, plain 6, make i, plain 28. 4th row^plain. 5th row — plain 28, make i, plain 8, make I, plain 28. 6th row — plain. 7th, 8th and 9th rows — plain. loth row— plain 32, knit 2 together, plain 32 stitches, nth row — plain. 12th row — plain 32, knit 2 together, plain 31. 13th row — plain. 14th row — plain 31, knit 2 together, plain 31. 15th row — plain. i6th row — plain I, knit 2 together, plain 27, knit 2 together, plain 28, knit 2 to- gether, plain I. 17th row — plain. There should be 60 stitches on the needles. i8th row— plain I, knit 2 together, plain 26, 2 together, plain 26, 2 together, plain i. 19th row — plain. :'? 20th row — ^plain i, 2 together, plain 24, 2 together, plain 25, 2 together, plain i. 21st row — plain 27 stitches, then cast off thus, turn the boot so that the wrong side will be outside, then * knit i stitch off each of the 2 needles together (like the toe of a stocking) ; repeat from *, and pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd, continue in the same way till all are off. Sew up the leg, and put ribbon through the holes at the ankle. Our model would fit a child of 3 months old or older if not a large child. , ■s^y>i«Sis»- -»i«j«»' 'sas!'' PETTICOAT FOR CHILD OF THREE YEARS. This warm and comfortable garment is attached to a lining bodice, but if preferred a knitted or crocheted one can be substituted. We have given many patterns for both. To make the skirt you will require 24 ozs. of best fingering or petticoat wool, scarlet is a good wearing colour ; 2 bone knitting needles, No. 10, Walker's Bell Gauge. Cast on 200 stitches, ist row — plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — * knit I, make i, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make i ; repeat from *. 5th row — purl. 6th row — like the 4th. 7th row — purl. Sth row — like the 4th and 6th. 9th row — purl, loth row — like the 4th. * nth row — plain. 12th row — purl. 13th row — plain. 14th row — like the 4th. 15th row — purl. i6th row — like the 4th. 17th row — purl. 18th row — like the 4th. 19th row — purl. 20th row -like the 4th ; repeat from * *, which completes the edging. The skirt is done in the kilt plait pattern, which has been often described. It takes 9 stitches to each pattern, therefore 200 stitches will give 22 patterns and 2 stitches over, knit 2 together twice at beginning and end to get rid of these, i st row— purl 8, knit I ; repeat. 2nd row — purl 2, knit 7 ; repeat. 3rd row — purl 6, knit 3. 4th row — purl 4, knit 5. 5th row — purl 4, knit 5. 6th row —purl 6, knit 3. 7th row— purl 2, knit 7. 8th row— purl 8, knit 1 ; repeat from ist row till the petticoat is the desired length, then knit 2 plain rows and cast off ; sew up two-thirds of the length and 148 crochet a row of double round the placket hole ; sew to a lining bodice in which draw-strings are run, and a button in the centre of bodice, a corresponding buttonhole being made in right side ; a little everlasting edging or strong lace sewn round neck and sleeves further improves this little garment. ... . PATTERN FOR ANTIMACASSARS. Cast on 16 stitches and 4 extra for edge stitches, which should always be knitted plain, ist row — purl 4, wool forward and knit 2 together 4 times, purl 4. 2nd row — knit plain. 3rd row— purl. 4th row — plain ; repeat from the ist row. BOOT FOR INFANT. With double Berlin wool, cast on 20 stitches ; increase every row until you have 24 on your needles, then in- crease every other row until you have 28 stitches on your needles, knit Ii, take another needle,and knit 17 stitches backwards and forwards until you have 10 ribs, then on the same needle, cast on II more stitches, de- crease every other row unti 1 your stitches are reduced to 24, then decrease every row until your stitches are re- duced to 20, cast off. This completes the boot. For the sock,pick up II stitches across the instep, and pick up 11 on the other side, in all you will have 33 stitches on your needle, knit 1 plain row. 2nd row — make i, take 2 together. 3rd row — plain. 4th row — plain. 5th row — plain. 6th row — purl. 7th row — plain ; repeat with i purl row, i plain row for 18 rows. 19th row — knit i, wool forward, take 2 together. 20th row — plain. 21st row — knit i, make i, take 2 together. 22nd row — plain ; cast off, sew the boot up, run a ribbon in the holes round the ankle, and tie with a bow in the front ; you will require about three-quarters of ribbon. IVY-LEAF PATTERN. Cast on 30 stitches for each pattern, and 9 extra for edge stitches, knit S plain rows, ist pattern row — knit 5, * make i, knit 2 to- gether, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass it over, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass it over, make I, knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i ; repeat from *, knit 4 at the end of the row. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — knit 5, * make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, make i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, make I, knit I ; repeat from *, knit 4 at the end of the row. 4th row — plain. 5th row — knit 5, * make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make l, knit 2 together, make I, knit I ; repeat from *, knit 4 at the end of the row. Sth row — plain. 7th row — knit 5, * make l, knit 2 together, make i, knit I, make I, knit I, slip !, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, knit i, make I, knit I, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make l, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit i, slip l, knit 2 together, pass the shp stitch over, knit i, make I, knit i, make i, knit 2 to- gether, make i, knit i ; repeat from *, knit 4 at the end of the row. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, ^^a w^ iffiffi- ^irW s®s ^k ^jj^Mfisp^^^^ ^^K^ ^^^ '^Ml iiiifflp ^i^^^Si (i^^S°^^l^^i:^^^^^^ist ^Z3\^^ -j^AgTOaL ^jixaj^ii^^ 8th row — plain. 9th row — knit 5, * make i, knit 2 together, make ij knit 3, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, knit 2 together, make I, knit 3, maie i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make i, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit i ; repeat from *, knit 4 at the end of the row. loth row — plain ; repeat from the ist row for length re- quired. Finish by knitting 5 plain rows. MIKADO LACE. Saxony wool. No. 15 needles, or unbleached thread and No. 16 or 17 needles, to trim underwear or jackets, &c. " Over " is the same as "forward." Cast on 22 stitches. 1st row — knit 2 plain, forward twice, take 2 together, knit 10, * forward twice, narrow (that is, take 2 to- gether), repeat from * two more times, three times in all, knit 2. 2nd row — knit 4, purl 1, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl I, knit 12, purl 1, knit 2. 3rd and 4th rows — plain knitting. 5th row — knit 2, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 12, * over twice, narrow, repeat from * twice more, knit 2. 6th row — knit 4, * purl I, knit 2, repeat from * twice more, purl I, knit 11, * purl I, knit 2, repeat from * once more. 7th row — knit plain. 8th row— knit 2, narrow, * knit i , narrow, and repeat from * 7 times more, fenit 3. 9th row — knit 2, * over twice, narrow and repeat from * 8 times more, knit 2. loth row — knit 4, * purl i, knit 2 and repeat from * 8 times more, i ith row — plain. 12th row — just like the 8th. 13th row — just like the 9th. 14th row — like the lotli. 15th row — plain. 1 6th row — Cast off 9, knit the remaining 22 plain. Begin again at the 1st row. DESIGN FOR COUVRETTE, &c. Allow 6 stitches for each pattern and 4 extra for edge stitches ist row — purl. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — purl. 4th row — plain. 5th row—* slip 2, knit 4. 6th row — knit 4, slip 2. 7th row — slip 2,_knit 4. 8tn row— knit 4, slip 2. 9th row — slip 2, knit 4, taking care always to slip the same stitches. loth row — plain. — purl. 12th row— plain. 13th row— purl. 14th row repeat from *. DOUBLE KNITTING. nth row — iplain ; Double knitting is, very useful for work- ing knee-caps, cuffs, &c In appearance it looks as if two pieces of knitting were worked and joined together at the edges It is very easily done. Cast on any even number of stitches. 1st and following rows — knit I, slip i alternately. By working it in this way the right side is Fig. I. purled (see Fig. i). If it is desired to have the right side plain (as Fig. 2), work as follows :— Cast on as before, ist and following rows — * knit i, draw the wool under the right needle to the side of the work next you, as if going to purl, slip I, draw the wool back again under the needle; repeat from *. Cast off as for ordinary knitting. If wished, a few rows may be worked alternately by each method, so as to form horizontal ribbing (as Fig. 3), but any such alteration will join the two webs of knitting, and thus interfere with its double- texture. Fig. 2. LEAF PATTERN. Calculate 9 for each pattern and 3 for purl stripe, istjrow — knit I, make i by putting the wool over needle, knit I, make i, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 3. 2nd row — knit S, 2 together, purl 3. 3rd row — knit 2, make 1, knit l, make l, knit 4, 2 together, purl 3. 4th row— same as 2nd. sthrow — knit 3, make i, knit i, make i, knit 149 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 3, 2 together, purl 3. 6th row — same as 4th. 7th row — knit 4, make l, knit l, make i, knit 2, 2 together, purl 3. 8th row— same as 6th. 9th row — knit 5, make i,knit i, make i, knit I, 2 together, purl 3. loth row— same as 8th. nth row — knit 6, make 1, knit i, make I, 2 together, purl 3. 12th row — same as loth. PATTERN FOR SHAWLS, &c. Allow 6 stitches for each pattern. 1st row — purl 3, make I, 2 together, knit 1. 2nd row — purl 3, knit 3. 3rd row — purl 3, knit I, make I, 2 together. 4th row— purl 3, knit 3 ; repeat from 1st row. Crochet. PETTICOAT In very firm stitch, and very handsome. Materials : — Single Berlin, peacock fingering, Andalusian, or petticoat fingering, just according to what you want to spend on it, and the purpose for which it is required, and hook to match, a hook which will work pretty finely. You can make this petticoat either with or without a placket hole, just as you prefer. It is fuller and warmer without a placket hole. The model had none, and was for a girl of twelve. Make a chain about 36 or 40 inches long, not tightly, and unite in a round, ist round— I double crochet in each of the 1st 4 loops, * 3 treble in the next loop, i double in each one of 150 the next 4 loops, and repeat from * to the end of the round, ending with 3 treble. 2nd round — * I double crochet into the next 4 stitches in the previous round, taking up both sides of the stitches, until you come to the centre one of the 3 treble in the previous row, work 3 double crochet in the centre one, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 3rd round — you have 8 double crochet between the centre stitches of the scallop. * Work i double crochet into each stitch until you come to the centre stitch ; work 3 into that centre stitch, repeat from * to the end of the round. You will have 10 double crochets between the centre stitches in this round. 4th round — i double crochet into each double crochet in previous round until you have worked 3 double crochet counting from and including the next to the centre loop of the scallop ; miss i double crochet, I double crochet in the next, miss I double crochet, i double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochet, 3 double crochet in the next double crochet, which should be the centre one, * i double crochet in each one of the ne'xt 3 double crochet in the previous round ; miss I stitch, i double in the next stitch, miss the next stitch, i double crochet in each one of the next 4 double crochet, 3 double crochet in the centre loop, and repeat from * to the end of the round. You have 10 double crochet between the centre stitches. Repeat the 4th round 7 times. 13th round — increase thus : work as usual till you come to the centre loop, then work 5 double crochet in the centre loop. * Work on as usual till you come to the centre loop again ; then work 5 double crochet into it, and repeat from * to the end of the round. This gives you 12 stitches between the centre loops, 14 to the scallop. 14th round — plain on the 13th round, that is, you work 3 double crochet in the centre stitch, and narrow 2 as you have been doing at the bottom of the scallop. 15th to 22nd rounds — like the 14th. 23rd round — narrow as usual at the bottom of the scallop, and increase as usual at the top by working 5 double crochet in the centre loop. Now work 9 plain rounds like the 1 3th. loth round from last increase — increase again by working S in the centre scallop, narrowing as usual. This is all the pattern. You work round and round, increasing every loth round, or oftener if you wish, till the petticoat seems long enough, or if it seems as if once in 10 rounds is too often to increase, only increase every 12th or I5tb round. Much must always depend on the worker, also on materials. There are two improvements in the above on the scallops given before for petticoats, ist. The scallop is well defined by having the increase made by 5 double crochet in the centre loops, and this gives it a sort of fluted appearance. 2nd. By narrowing, as given above, it makes a smaller hole, and not so conspicuous a narrowing. 3rd. By always taking up both sides of the loop you have a firm stitch, particularly if you work rather tightly. This feature, we think, has been mentioned before, but the others have not. Colour : the judicious selection of colour makes a wonder- ful difference. The model had a crimson ground, with a black stripe bordered with orange on each side of the black, i.e., there were about 2 to 4 rows of orange, then 10 or 12 rows in black, then the orange again, then the crimson ground, and at a suitable distance another black and orange stripe. The border can be a scallop, worked on the bottom of the petticoat in black, and an orange bor- dering row, or a plain little scallop in crimson. The band can be l or 2 rows of holes, into which a string can be run, or a slip band of material. General Remarks. The above pattern can be used for baby's petticoat, lady's or young lady's. All that has to be done is to get the right width at the waist, to go over the shoulders and hips, so that you can get it on, and the petticoat shapes itself. Remember, the tighter you make the chain at the waist the more patterns or scallops you get. A good, straight, even chain is best, not too tight, and not too short. For a Sofa Cushion, The above pattern, with a few modifications, is very pretty for a round pillow or cushion. Make about 200 chain tightly, that is, not too tight for you to work into them, but as tightly as you can work into them with a finer needle, if possible, for the ist round. You will have 40 flutes on the 200 stitches, counting 5 stitches to begin every flute. Just work as above directed from the ist row onwards till you have done 7 inches to the tip of the scallop. Last round but I — * work as usual till you reach the tip of the scallop, 2 chain, then miss I loop, and repeat from *. Last round — ** work as usual till you come to the hole in previous round, i double crochet, * 5 chain, I double crochet into the hole, repeat from * four times more. This gives you 5 little chain picots. Repeat from** to end of round. You can either make another side the same or cover the other side with silk, or satin, or velvet. The latter is, however, rather thick. The method of making up is to gather the flutes regularly in the centre of the cushion and catch the points at regular intervals on the outer edge. The flutes go better if the work is stretched somewhat. If you have two crochet sides, join the points of the scallop over a THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. fulling of satin to show through tho spaces. H you have material of any kind on the other side you must have a small strip of the same round the outer edge of the side to be covered by the crochet, that it may show through the spaces. The centre on both sides is filled by a bow or rosette. Shades of red, blue andjbrown are pretty, or stripes of black, orange, blue, crimson, &c., can be well arranged in different shades. HAT FOR BABY BOY. Materials: 2 ozs. of Andalusian wool, 3 small skeins of floss silk, a yard of satin or corded ribbon, a pair of knit- ting needles. No. 9, Bell Gauge, and a fine cro- chet hook are required. For the crown of hat crochet 2 chain, join, and work into these chain 7 double crochet, into each of these 7 work 2 double crochet. 3rd row — 2 double into i, 2 double. I double, 2 double. double. 2 double. double. 2 double, double, 2 double, double. 2 double, double, 2 double, double. 2 double. double. For the next row — increase 8 stitches by putting 2 double into 1 every 3rd stitch. Next row — every 4th stitch. Next row — every 5th stitch. Continue this, increasing 8 stitches in every row until there are 13 stitches between each increase. Then work a row of treble. For the ruffle it will be found better for the wool to be drawn from a winder into heaps, and not wound into balls. Take 2 separate heaps, as you work with the wool double, and cast on 5 stitches, and in loop knitting work 37 rows of loops; cast off. For the ear pieces cast on 4 stitches and work 3 rows of loops. For the trimmings take the wool double and crochet lengths of loops thus: I chain, * wool over crochet hook and tips of 2 fingers 4 times, draw through, I chain ; repeat from * until you have a length of 60 loops, then make a length of 70 loops, and one of 23. Take the length of 60 loops, and with a fine wool needle oversew the top of each loop with the floss silk, about 6 stitches to each loop will be sufficient ; do the same to the length of 23, but for the length of 70 leave the first 14 loops plain, work 14, leave 14, work 14, and leave theend 14. Nowjoin the ruffletogether,andsewtothecrown, crochet a row round the bottom edge, and add the ears. Take the length of 60 loops which you have worked and trim the ruffle in front of cap by sewing them in between the rows of loops. Divide the length of 70 loops into 5, sew these 5 pieces together, placing the 2 pieces which are silked in between the plain ones, this will form the feather, which is sewn lightly across the front of the cap and finished with a rosette made by twisting up the length of 23 loops. Sew on the ribbon as strings. This hat is pr«tty worked in pale blue or cream instead of white. MUFFATEES. Materials required : i an ounce of pink Berlin wool and 4 an ounce of tan colour and a small bone crochet hook. Make a chain of about 55 stitches with the tan colour. 1st row — 4 double crochet, putting 1 into each of the first 4 chain, 3 double crochet into the 5th chain, i double crochet into each of the next 4, miss 2 of the foundation chain, and repeat from the beginning of the row all the way along. Turn and work every row the same, taking always the back loop. \yhen 6 rows are done, join on the pink wool, and work 6 rows exactly the same. Then you must add the pink at the other side of the tan coloured stripe, the niuffatee being composed of the 3 stripes running round the wrist, the tan being in the centre, the pink both top and bottom. For the second pink stripe then, take care to begin on the foundation chain of tan at the end where the end of tan wool is hanging. Work the same as before, but you must now begin 4 double crochet, miss 2, 4 double crochet, &c., and end with 4 double crochet, and 3 double crochet into the next. Work 6 rows the same as the other end, and sew up neatly, taking care to make the stripes match. PENCE-JUG. Materials required : a small quantity of pink p.nd brown Berlin wool and a crochet hook. With pink wool make a chain of 6 and join round. Begin every row with 3 chain, which stands for i treble. 1st row — 16 treble into the circle. 2nd row — 2 treble into every one of the previous row. 3rd row — brown, i treble into each of the previous row. 4th row — pink, I treble into each ot the previous row. 5th row— brown, I treble into each of the previous row. 6th row — pink, I treble into each of the previous row. 7th and 8th rows — brown, i treble into each of the previous row. 9th row — pink, I treble into ever)' other of the previous row. loth and nth rows — pink, I treble into each of the previous row. i2th row — brown, 2 treble into each of the previous row. 13th row — brown, I treble into each of the previous row. 14th row — pink, I double crochet into each treble of the previous row, which completes the jug. Make a chain of about 50 with the brown wool, and run it in the loth row and bring it out at the same place it was first run into. Make another similar chain and run it round in the opposite direction, beginning at the opposite side. Make tassels of the 2 wools mixed and sew them on the chain, fastening the 2 ends together at the head of the tassel. WOOLLEN ANTIMACASSAR. Scale Stitch. This stitch is a useful one for many purposes, but is particularly so for an antimacassar. Materials required for one J of a yard long without the fringe, and about 5 finger lengths wide, 16 skeins of best quality petticoat wool, 3 shades of crimson and 3 of bronze green ; 4 skeins of each of the darker shades of crimson, and 2 skeins of the other shades will be sufficient. A coarse bone crochet needle. No. 2, gauged by Walker's Bell Gauge. Make a chain the length required (f of a yard is a good medium size) with the darkest crimson, working loosely, ist row — miss i chain, and * draw the wool through the next loop ; repeat from * till there are 6 loops on the needle altogether, draw the wool through all of them, and complete the pattern with i chain (you should always have 6 loops in each pattern); * 2nd pattern — the ist loop is on the needle, draw the 2nd loop through the little hole left in the centre of the last worked pattern ; the 3rd loop is drawn through the next stitch at the back; the 4th loop is to be dra^vn through the last chain that was worked into; the 5th and 6th loops are drawn through the next 2 chain stitches, then draw the wool through the 6 loops on the needle (as before), and work i chain ; repeat from * to the end of the chain, taking care to have 6 loops always at the last pattern of every row. Fasten off the wool. Begin 2nd row at the other end, with the 2nd shade of the crimson wool, join the wool into the ver\- first loop of the 1st row (this is the chain you commenced on), make 3 chain, miss T chain, draw the wool through the next, and again through 1st of the 3 chain; the 4th loop is to be drawn through the ist loop of the 1st pattern worked on the ist row; the 5th loop through the hole in centre of same pattern; 6th loop is drawn through the ist loop of the 2nd pattern in the ist row, then draw the wool through the 6 loops on the needle, make i chain; * 2nd pattern — the ist loop is on the needle, for 2nd loop, draw the wool through the centre hole of the pattern just worked; for the 3rd loop draw the wool through the next stitch at the back ; for the 4th loop draw through the same stitch as the 6th loop of the last pattern was worked into ; 151 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. for 5th loop, draw through the centre hole of the 2nd pattern inthe 1st row ; for 6th loop, draw through the ist loop of the 3rd pattern in the ist row, then draw the wool through the 6 loops on the needle, make i chain (as before) ; repeat from * ; the pattern in each row is the same as the 2nd row, breaking off the wool at the end of each row. For the 3rd row, take the lightest shade of the crimson wool. 4th row — 2nd shade. 5tti row — the darkest shade of crimson; this completes ist stripe. The 2nd stripe is worked in the same way in the shades of green, commencing with the darkest shade, and working same as 2nd row of the pattern. Three stripes of crimson and 2 of green will be sufficient, but if re- quired larger, continue in same way, and make a longer chain when beginning the work. Add a fringe to the two ends by looping the wool double through the stitches with the crochet needle, and cutting the lengths twice as long as the fringe is wanted. LADY'S COLLAR. The materials required for this dressy collar are 400 yards of sewing cotton. No. 10, and a small quantity of No. 30, i yard of pretty ribbon i inch wide, and a fine steel crochet needle. The work should be firm and even or the collar will not look well. General directions: throughout this pattern the double stitches should be worked into the back strand of the stitches in the preceding row. 1st row — commence with 16 chain, miss i, 15 double,* i chain, turn, 12 double, i chain, turn,? 12 double, i chain, turn, 9 double, I chain, turn, 9 double, i chain, turn, 6 double, i chain, turn, 6 double, I chain, turn, 6 double, 4 chain, turn, miss i, 9 double, I chain, turn, 9 double, 4 chain, turn, miss i, 12 double, I chain, turn, 12 double, 4 chain, turn, miss I, 15 double, repeat from * 18 times more. I5efore proceeding further it would be well to measure how many inches you have worked, and ascertain if it be sufficient to fit nicely round the neck band of the dress with which it is to be worn ; should it be too short, add more patterns til you have the required length, remembering always that these directions are given for a collar containing 19 patterns, and that 152 any more added to it must be allowed for throughout. 2nd row-^ to be worked on the pointed side of the foundation row, i doublg into the ist point, 6 chain, i double into the same stitch of Igj point, * 6 chain, i single into the 2nd of the 6 chain, 2 chain, i double into the point of the 12 double of the foundation, 6 chain, I single into the 2nd of the 6 chain, 2 chain, i double into the point of the 9 double of the foundation, 6 chain, i single into the 2nd of the 6 chain, 2 chain, i double into the 6 double of the foundation, j chain, i single into the 3rd of the 7 chain, i chain, i double into the point of the next 9 double of the foundation, 7 chain, i single into the 3rd of the 7 chain, i chain, i double into the point of the 12 double of the foundation, 7 chain, i single into the 3rd of the 7 chain, l chain, i double into the next point, 6 chain, I double into the same stitch as the last double ; repeat from * 18 times more ; fasten oif. 3rd row — I double into the 6 chain at the ist point, * 17 chain, i double into the double stitch worked into the narrowest part of the foundation row between the Vandykes, 10 chain, take the needle out and insert it into the 7th of the 17 chain, draw through the loop, 6 chain, i double into the 6 chain at the next point ; repeat from * 15 times more. This row forms a sort of casing, through which the ribbon is to he run. 4th row — I double into the ist stitch of last row, 3 chain, * 6 double, 3 chain, miss I, repeat from *, ending with 3 chain, i double. 5th row- purl in this row means 4 chain, i single into the 1st of the 4 chain. To work roll picot — make a loop on the needle to start with, throw the thread round the needle 9 times, draw all these threads lip close with the middle finger of the right hand, insert the point of the needle into whatever stitch you wish to work the roll picot, draw through a loop, now draw this loop up close to the 9 threads, and hold all firmly together between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and draw through all a loop of thread, make a chain stitch to steady it, taking care to leave the thread sufficiently loose not to crush down the roll picot, and yet not so loose as to pre- vent it being firm. Work i double into the ist 3 chain of last row, * I purl, work 5 roll picots, separated by 4 purls, into the next 3 chain, i purl, i double into the next 3 chain ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 6th row — work rather loosely along the straight side of the band, I double, i chain into each ridge the whole way along. This completes the neckband. The Circular Part of the Collar. 1st row — 26 chain, turn, miss I, * 25 double, I chain, turn, 20 double, I chain, turn, 20 double, i chain, turn, 15 double, i chain, turn, 15 double, i chain, turn, 10 double, i chain, turn, 10 double, 12 chain, turn, miss i, 10 double, i chain, turn, 10 double, 6 chain, turn, miss i, 15 double, i chain, turn, 15 double, 6 chain, turn, miss I, 20 double, i chain, turn, 20 double, 6 chain, turn, miss I ; repeat from* 18 times more. This completes the vandyke row. 2nd row — work i treble into the point of the Ist half vandyke, I purl (in this row the purls are all worked thus : 5 chain, I single into the 1st of the 5 chain), i treble into the same point, i chain, I purl, I chain, i treble into the 4th double stitch down the left side of the point of the half vandyke, i chain, i purl, l chain, l treble, into the corner of the next projection of the half vandyke, l chain, I purl, I chain, i treble halfway down the ist projection, I chain, I purl, I chain, i treble into the corner of the 2nd projection, I chain, I purl, i chain, i treble half way down the 2nd projection, I chain, I purl, I chain, i treble into the corner of the last pro- jection, I treble into the corner of the corresponding projection on the next vandyke, I chain, i purl, i chain, i treble half way up the next projection, l chain, i purl, I chain, i treble into the corner of the same projection, i chain, i purl, i chain, i treble half way up the next projection, l chain, i purl, i chain, I treble into the corner of the same projection, I chain, i purl, i chain, i treble into the 4th stitch from the point of the vandyke, i chain, i purl, i chain, I treble into the point of the vandyke, I chain, I purl, i chain, i treble into the same stitch on the point of the vandyke ; repeat from * 18 times more. 3rd row — Star row — ** form a loop and into it work 15 double, draw close. 2nd round — 2 double into each double of last round. 3rd round — I double into each double of last round. 4th round — * 5 double into the next 5 doubles of last round, turn, i chain, 5 double, turn, i chain, miss I, 4 double, turn, I chain, miss l, 3 double, turn, i chain, miss l, 2 double, turn, I chain, miss i, I double ; fasten off; repeat from * until you have worked the 6 points of the star. At the last point do not break off the thread, but crochet down the left side, * 2 double, 4 chaiin, '2 double, 4 chain, 3 double, then up the side of the next point, 3 double, 4 chain, 2 double, 4 chain, 2 double, 4 chain to turn the point ; repeat from * until you come to the 4th point, then instead of turning it with 4 chain, work 2 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the purl at the point of the last half vandyke, draw through a loop, 2 chain, proceed as before until you come to th§ THE FANCY WOEK-BASKET. 5th point of the star, 7 chain, l single into the 3rd of the 7 chain, 2 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the Sth of the 6 purl down the side of the half Vandyke, draw through a loop, 4 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the corresponding purl up the left side of the next vandyke, 7 chain, l single into the 3rd of the 7 chain, 2 chain, proceed as before until you come to the 6th point, turn it as you turned the 4th point, joining it to the purl at the point of the vandyke, proceed as before until you come back again to the 1st point, turn it with 4 chain, i single, fasten off. The centre of the star is worked in No. 30 cotton — roll the cotton round the end of the handle of your crochet needle 6 times to form a tiny firm ring, into which work 3 double, * 4 chain, 4 double ; repeat from * 4 times more, then 4 chain, I double. 2nd round — * 4 chain, i single into the back of the last round, half way be- tween the next 2 purls (formed by the 4 chain), repeat from * 5 times more. 3rd round — into each 4 chain of last round work i double, 6 treble, i double. This completes the centre. Do not break off the thread close, but thread a sewing needle with it, and sew it firmly into its place on the star. Repeat from ** 18 times more. 4th row — commence at the right hand side of the collar and work 2 double into the purl at the point of the 1st half vandyke, 2 double into the purl (formed by 4 chain) at the point of the star, * 12 chain, 2 double into the next point of the star ; repeat from * twice more. ** 9 chain, work 3 long treble (with the thread thrown twice round needle) into the ist purl to the left of the point of the star into which you last worked; in working these long stitches do not draw through the last loop in the ist and 2nd of them, but when the 3 are worked draw i loop through the 3, leaving 2 loops still on the needle ; in the same manner work 3 double long treble (with the thread 3 times round the needle) into the side purl nearest the next point of the same star, leaving 3 loops on the needle, then 3 double long treble worked as before, into the corresponding purl of the next star, leaving 4 loops on the needle, and 3 long treble into the 2nd purl up the side of the next point of the 2nd star. There should now be 5 loops on the needle, draw a loop through these, work 5 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the Sth stitch of the last 9 chain, draw through the loop, 4 chain, 2 double into the purl on the same point of the star, * 12 chain, 2 double into the purl on the next point, repeat from * once more; repeat from ** 1 7 times more ; 12 chain, 2 double into the purl where the point of the last star joins the half vandyke at the end, i double into the purl at the point of the half vandyke, fasten off. 5 th row — commence where you commenced the last row, work 3 double into the double stitches and 12 double into the 12 chain, *3 chain, miss I, 7 double, 3 chain, miss I, 6 double, 3 chain, miss i, 6 double, 3 chain, miss i, 7 double, 3 chain, miss i, 10 double across the 2 chains which are joined together between the stars ; repeat from * until you come to the 3rd point of the last star, then work 12 double down the 12 chain, and double stitches into the double stitches of last row ; fasten off. The edging cannot be worked until the circular point of the collar is j oined to the neck band, there- fore you must now work along the top of the circular part the 6th row. Work rather loosely a row of i double, I chain into each tidge the whole way along. 7th row — 1st leaflet row — i double into the 1st double of last row, * 6 chain, 2 long treble into the 2nd and 1st of the 6 chain, working them like the long stitches in the 4th row, and drawing the loop through all, when the 2nd long treble is worked we shall call this a leaflet ; work a 2nd leaflet, then I double into the chain stitch over the next space between the van- dykes, 2 leaflets, 1 double into the chain stitch over the centre of the next vandyke ; repeat from * to the end of the row, ending with I double into the last double of last row, 9 chain. 8th row — 2nd leaflet row — this row joins the 2 pieces together, work I double into the 1st double of the last row of the neckband, * I leaflet, take out the needle and insert it between the 2 leaflets worked last on the 7th row, draw through the loop ; I leaflet, i double into the chain over the 6 doubles in the foundation row of the neck band, I leaflet, join as before to the next pair of leaflets in the 7th row, i leaflet, i double into the chain stitch over the next 1 5 double in the foundation row of the neck band, repeat from * to the end of the row, then work 9 chain, join to the 1st double of the 6th row of the collar, fasten off. 9th row — the edging row — commence at the 9 chain across the end of the leaflet rows at the right hand side of the collar, work 9 double across the 9 chain, then double stitch down the side of the half vandyke until you come to the 12 double worked on the 12 chain of the 5th row, on them work 3 chain, 3 double, 3 chain, 3 double, 3 chain, 3 double, 3 chain, 3 double, i double into the 3 chain of the 6th row, i purl (same as the purls in the Sth row of the neckband), 6 roll picots separated by s purls into the next 3 chain, i purl, I double into the next 3 chain, i purl, 6 roll picots separated by s purls into the next 3 chain, I purl, 2 double into the next 3 chain, then I chain, 3 double, 3 chain, 2 double, 3 chain, 3 double, i chain across the next double stitches, 2 double into the next 3 chain, repeat from * 17 times more, i purl, 6 roll picots separated by 5 purls into the next 3 chain, i purl, I double into the next 3 chain, i purl, 6 roll picots separated by 5 purls into the next 3 chain, 2 double into the next 3 chain, i chain, * 3 double, 3 chain, repeat from * 3 times more. Work double stitch all along the end of the collar to correspond with the opposite end. Run the ribbon as before directed into the neckband, leaving the ends sufficiently long to tie in a bow at the throat. To Make Cuffs to Match the Collar Work a sufficient quantity (from 10 to 12 patterns) of the foun- dation row of the neckband, join, work the remaining rows of the neckband round and round without breaking the thread till you come to the 6th row. For the 7th and 8th rows — work the 2 leaflet rows. 9th row — * i double between the next pair of leaflets, 6 chain, repeat from * all round. loth row — ' 6 double into the 6 chain, 3 chain, miss the double stitch of last row, repeat from*, nth row — the same as the 5th row of the neckband. A yard of ribbon is necessary for the cuffs, cut it in half and run a piece into the 3rd row of each cuff. Tie the ends into a bow at the outside. FRINGE. This is amost useful and durable style of crochet fringe, much to be recommended for its durability, to say nothing of its extreme simplicity. It entirely obviates the fidgetty mode of knotting in loose strands of cotton to form a fringe, and has also the advan- tage of not using up such a quantity of cotton. The edge of the antimacassar, quilt, or whatever it is to be worked on must be a straight one. If it is not straight, it must be made so by working chain from point to point of the edge, and then working a row of double crochet along these chain stitches. To make the fringe, work a single into anyone of the chain, wherever it is most convenient to begin. Work 40 chain, and then work a single stitch into the next stitch (chain or double) of the foundation row. Then work again the 40 chain as before, and continue all round. Tassels may be made out of this fringe by taking 5 of the double strands of chain and twisting cotton round them about a quarter of the way down, tying the ends tightly at the back of the tassel and fastening off closely. In course of time, as this fringe is used, the strands have a tendency to become twisted, which is a great improvement to its appearance. This style of fringe is also well adapted as a finish for woollen antimacassars and couvre-pieds. THE CREEVE COT QUILT. Very Handsome. The squares in this pattern are worked in the form of a cross, having 4 divisions with raised tufts in roll picot, which are worked thus : to work roll picots well it is very necessary to have a well- shaped steel crochet needle, the hook must be smooth and nicely rounded to prevent its catching in the work. The part of the needle above the hook should not be thicker than the hook itself, but about the same size as the hook at the thickest part. The stitch is worked thus: for the large roll picot make a loop on the needle to begin with, then put the thread round the needle 13 times, draw all these threads close together with the middle finger of the right hand, insert the point of the needle into whatever stitch you wish to work the roll picot, draw through a loop ; now draw this loop up close to the 13 threads and hold all firmly together between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, draw through all a loop of the thread and make a chain stitch to keep it in place, taking care to leave the thread loose enough not to crush down the roll picot, and yet not so loose as to prevent its being firm. This stitch mav be troublesome to work at first, but with practice it becomes very pleasant and easy, and well repays the trouble spent on it. The small roll picot is worked in exactly the same way as the large, but only putting the thread 6 times round the needle instead of 13 times. The model was crocheted with Bagley and Wright's fourfold scarlet tie knitting cotton. No. 14, and a rather fine steel crochet needle. For ist division of ist round — make 12 chain, miss 2, 10 double on the remaining 10 chain. Work 3 more divisions same as ist division, and join with i single stitch to ist stitch of the round. 2nd round — * 10 double up 1st dinsion of the 1st round, 3 double in i stitch (the top of the ist division), 10 double down 2nd side of the 1st division, miss I ; repeat from * Working on the next division instead of the ist division 3 times more, join to the ist stitch of the round with i single. Turn the work, -^rd round — the square is now worked in ribbed or Russian . 153 Wm FANCY WeRK-BASKET, crochet, which is done by working backwards and forwards, always inserting the needle into the back part of every stitch, miss 2 stitches, * 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, i double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, decrease i stitch (by taking the 2 next stitches on the needle together and working them as I double) ; repeat from * twice more, then g double, 3 double in next stitch, 1 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join with I single stitch to 1st stitch of the round. Turn the work. 4th round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 3 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 (by taking the 3 next stitches on the needle together, and working them as i double), these stitches come between the divisions ; repeat from * twice more, and for 4th division, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 3 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join with i single stitch to 1st stitch of the round. Turn the work. 5th round- miss 2 stitches, * 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 5 double, 3 double in next, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 5 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, join with i single to ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 6th round — miss 2 stitches, * 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 7 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 7 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, join with i single to 1st stitch of the round. Turn the work. 7th round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, join with I single to ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 8th round— miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 1 1 do«ble, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 1 1 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, join with i single to 1st stitch of the round. Turn the work. 9th round— miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 13 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in next stitch, 13 double, 3 double in next stitch, 9 double, join with i single to ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. loth round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 1 5 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 15 double, 3 double in the ne.xt stitch, 9 double, join with i single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work, nth round — miss "2,* 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 17 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 17 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join with one single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 12th round — in this round the tufts of large roll picots are comrnenced, miss 2, * g double, 3 double in next stitch, g double ; for tuft the wrong side of the work is next you in this round, and the tufts are worked on the right side, 3 large roll picots into the centre double stitch of the 6th round, i double, 3 large roll picots into the same stitch as last 3 roll picots were worked into, 9 double, 3 double into the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double into the next stitch, 9 double, 3 large roll picots into the centre ==^=&^' double of 6th round, i double, 3 large roll picots into same stitch as last 3 roll picots were worked into, 9 double, 3 double into the next stitch, 9 double, join with i single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 13th round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 21 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 21 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join with I single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 14th round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 23 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, g double, 3 double in the next stitch, 23 double, 3 double in the next stitch, g double, join with I single stitch to ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 15th round— miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 25 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 25 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join with i single to ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. i6th round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 27 double, 3 double in the next stitch, g double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, g double, 3 double in the next stitch, 27 double, 3 double in the next stitch, g double, join with I single to ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 17th round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 29 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch,.2g double, 3 double in the next stitch, g double, join with i single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work, i8th round — in this round the tufts that were commenced in the I2th round are completed, miss 2, * g double, 3 double in the next stitch, 1 5 double, 3 large roll picots into the i double in the centre of the 6 roll picots of 12th round, 16 double, 3 double in the next stitch, g double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 15 double, 3 large roll picots into the I double of 1 2th round, 16 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join with i single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work, igth round — miss 2, * g double, 4 double in the next stitch, 33 double, 3 double in the next stitch, g double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, g double, 3 double in the next stitch, 33 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join with i single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 20th round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 35 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 35 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join withi single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 2 1 St round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 37 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, g double, 3 double in the next stitch, 37 double, 3 double in the next stitch, g double, join with i single to the 1st stitch of the round. Turn the work. 22nd round — miss 2, * 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 39 double, 3 double in h next stitch, g double, decrease 2 ; repeat from * twice more, g double, 3 double in the next stitch, 39 double, 3 double in the next stitch, 9 double, join with I single to the ist stitch of the round. Turn the work. 23rd round — miss 2, 9 double, 3 double in the next stitch, * 41 double, 2 double in the next stitch, 5 chain, miss 5, 3 large roll picots in the next stitch, taking both loops of it, 2 chain, take out the needle and insert it in the top of the ist of the 3 large roll picots, taking both loops of the stitch, and then into the loop the needle was taken out of, and draw the cotton through both the loops, i chain, miss 9 stitches, 3 large roll picots into the next stitch, taking both loops of it, 2 chain, take out the needle, insert it in the top of the ist of the last 3 large roll picots and the loop the needle was taken out of, then draw the cotton through both loops on the needle, i chain, 3 large roll picots into the loop of 2 chain over the ist set of 3 roll picots, 2 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the 5th of the 5 chain and in the top of the 1st of the last 3 large roll picots, taking both loops of the stitch, and the loop the needle was taken out of, draw the cotton through all the loops on the needle, 9 chain, 3 large roll picots into the same loop as the last 3 large roll picots were worked, 2 chain, take out the needle and insert it in the top of the first of the last 3 large roll picots and the loop the needle was taken out of, draw the cotton through both the loops on the needle. 4 chain, 2 double into the centre stitch of the 3 double at the corners ; repeat from * 3 times more, join with a single stitch to the centre double stitch of the first corner of the round. Turn the work. 24th round — I double in each stitch of last round, except the 5th of the g chain at the corners into which always work 2 double, join with a single stitch to first double stitch of the round. Turn the work. 25th round— 3 chain, * miss i, i treble in the next stitch, i chain, repeat from * all round, excepting the 4 coiners, where you should not miss i, and work 3 chain between the 2 corner trebles instead of I chain ; there should be 128 treble stitches round the square, join with a single stitch to 2nd of the 3 chain at com- THE FANCY WORK-BASK.ET. mencement of the round. 26th round— 2 single stitches, * 2 small roll picots over the next I chain of last round to left, i chain, miss the next i chain of last row, repeat from * all round the square, except at the comers, then work 4 small roll picots over the 3 chain of last round, join with a single stitch to top of the first small roll picot of round, taking both loops of the stitch. 27th round — 3 chain, * i treble between the next 2 small roll picots to left, 1 chain, repeat from * all round tlie square, at the corners working 2 treble with I chain between, join with a single stitch to the 2nd of the 3 chain at beginning of the round. 28th round — i double into each stitch ot the last round, at the comers work 3 double in I stitch, join with a single stitch to the first stitch of the round. Fasten otf the thread. Work as many squares as will be required to make the quilt the size wished. Our model had 24 squares. To join the squares together, place 2 squares together with the right sides outside, and * work single crochet, taking i stitch from each square, and working them off together, repeat from * till the 2 squares are joined, taking care to commence at the corner stitch of each square, and ending at the next comers. Do not break off the thread, but take 2 more squares and join them with the same thread, and in the same way, as 2 first squares were joined. Con- tinue joining in the same way till the quilt is as wide as required. Fasten off the thread. Then join the remaining squares, taking I square and joining it to those already joined till all are worked on. Our model had 4 squares in width and 6 squares in length. When all the squares are worked together in length as well as in width add the following border : — For Edge or Border. For 1st square of th« border — 1st row — commence with 10 chain, miss I chain, and work 9 double on the next 9 chain, turn the work. 2nd row — * I chain, 9 double on the 9 double of last row, turn the work, repeat from * till there are 6 rows worked from the begin- ning. This completes the ist square. 2nd square — 2 chain, work 9 double down the side of the 1st square, turn the work, i chain, and work same as the ist square from 2nd row till there are 6 rows worked, which completes the 2nd square of the edge. * * 3rd square — work same as 2nd square, but working down side of 2nd square. Repeat from ** till the length the edge or border is re- quired is worked. Our model had 72 patterns round it. 2nd row of edge — the roll picots in this row are worked in the same way as the roll picots in the squares of the quilt, but putting cotton or thread 9 times round the needle, 2 roll picots in the centre of the side of ist square of the edge, 5 chain, i treble into the point of the same square, 5 chain, * 2 roll picots into 5th of the 9 double of the 6th row of the same square, taking up both loops of the stitch, 2 roll picots into the centre of the side of next square of the edge to left hand, take out the needle and insert it in the top of the ist of the last worked 4 roll picots, taking up both loops of the stitch, and into the loop the needle was taken out of, draw the cotton through the loops on the needle, 5 chain, i treble into the point of the square, repeat from *to end of row. 3rd row — I double into each stitch of last row. 4th row — * i treble into the ist double of last row, I chain, miss i, repeat from * to end of row. 5th row — * 2 small roll picots over the ist i chain of last row, i chain, miss 3, repeat from* to end of low. 6th row — i treble between the 2 ist roll picots of last row, * i chain, i treble between the next 2 roll picots ; repeat from * to end of the row. 7th row — i double in each stitch of the last row. This completes the top of the border. For the edge work as follows : 1st row — ** i treble into the ist rib of the 1st square having the right side of the work towards you, i chain, miss i rib, 1 treble into the next rib, * i chain, miss i double of the next square of the edge, i treble into the next double, repeat from * till there are 5 trebles with i chain between them worked, then 5 chain, l treble into the ist rib at top of 2nd square of the edge, I chain, mjss i rib, i treble into the next rib, i chain, i tieble into 2nd double stitch of the 3rd square of the edge, repeat from ** to the end of the row. 2nd row — The purls are worked thus (5 chain, i double into the 1st of the 5 chain), 2 small roll picots over the ist chain of last row, i purl, miss next i chain, * 2 medium roll picots (thread 9 times round the needle) over the next I chain, miss the next i chain, 7 large roll picots with a purl between, over the 5 chain at top of the 2nd square of the edge, miss the next i chain, purl, 2 medium roll picots over the next i chain, purl, miss next i chain, 2 small roll picots over the next i chain, 2 small roll picots over the next i chain, take out the needle and insert it in the top of the ist of the last 4 small roll picots, and the loop the needle was taken out of, draw the cotton through both the loops on the needle, purl, miss the next i chain, repeat from * to end of the row, but at the comers of the quilt work the 3 edge patterns, with 6 instead of 5 treble, with I chain between in ist row of the border, 2 medium roll picots over i chain twice instead of once, at both sides of the scallop, and 9 large roll picots instead of 7, in the 2nd row of the border, so that the edge may lie flat round the comers ; join the border to the quilt in the same way as the squares were joined to- gether, taking care when joining to full the border at the comers. A star of large roll picots put on where the 4 corners of the squares meet is an improvement, though the quilt is very handsome with- out them. For the stars work thus: — 4 chain, unite with a single stitch into the ist of the 4 chain, 4 chain,* i large roll picot, I purl, repeat from * 11 times more, unite wiih a single stitch to the top of the first of the 12 large roll picots, sew on neatly to the quilt. 15 stars will be required altogether. 2 pounds of the knitting cotton will be required to knit the quilt. OAK-LEAF EDGING. This edging is worked the short way. In Evans' Boar's Head cotton, it is most charming for trimming ladies' and children's underclothing, and is found to wear as long as the article it serves to trim. Make a chain of 16, turn, miss 5 chain, and put I double crochet into the 6th chain, * make 5 chain, and put I double crochet into the same chain as before, and lepeat from * till you have 5 loops of 5 chain each; turn, and put into the ist loop of 5 chain, i double, 5 treble, and I double, and continue putting these 7 stitches into each of the other 4 loops of 5 chain. Then work 5 double down the stem, that is, the founda.ion chain, I into each chain, beginning at the one nearest where you are working; this completes one oak leaf. t make 5 chain, join to the centre stitch of the 5th division of the leaf, make 16 chain, turn, miss 5 chain, put i double into the 6th chain, turn, * make 5 chain, put l double into the same chain as before, and repeat from * till you have 5 loops of 5 chain each; turn, put into the ist loop of 5 chain, i double and 3 treble, then join to the division just above where you joined last time, put 2 more treble and I double into the same loop you were working into before join- ing, and put I double, 5 treble, and i double into each of the other4 loops of 5 chain, work 5 double down the stem as before and repeat from t. When the length required is finished, a strong edge may be made by i treblg into every chain of the foundation, with one extra at the stem. INSERTION. This pretty insertion is suitable for children's white frocks, with rows of tucks between each row of insertion. No. 40 crochet cotton should be used and a fine crochet needle. ist row— make a chain of the required length. 2nd row— double stitch. 3rd row * I long stitch (made by throwing the thread 4 times round the needle), 3 chain, miss 3, repeat from *. 4th row— double stitch. 5th row— 2 treble, * 8 chain, miss 8, 2 treble, repeat from *. 6th row— 2 treble into the 1st 2 treble of last row, i treble into the 1st of the 8 chain, * 6 chain, miss 6, 4 treble, repeat from * 7th row— comnience with the last of the ist 3 trebles of last row, * 2 trebles, 4 chain, miss 4, 2 trebles, 2 chain, miss 2, repeat from * 8th row —commence to work into the 2nd of the ist 2 trebles of last row, * 2 trebles, 2 chain, miss 2, 2 trebles, 4 chain, miss 4, repeat from *. 9th row— commence to work into the 2nd of the Ist 2 trebles of last row, * 4 trebles, 6 ch?in, miss 6, repeat from *. loth row— com- mence to work into the 2nd of the 1st 4 trebles of last row, * 2 trebles, 8 chain, miss 8, repeat from * nth row— double stitch I2th row — the same as the 3rd row. 13th row — dou ble stitch. NOTICE.— We greatly regret that we are compelled to omit the Answers to Correspondents this month. Queries will be attended to in June issue, 155 THE FANCY WORK-BASKEt. ANTIMACASSAR. Make a chain the width required, ist row— turn with 6 chain, miss 3 chain of the foundation row, i treble into the 4th, * 3 chain. miss 3, I treble into the 4th, and repeat from * to end of row, 2nd row— turn with 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the ist hole, * miss 2 holes, 8 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the 4th; repeat from * to end of row. 3rd row— turn with 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the loop you made by 3 chain in the previous row, * 8 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the next loop of 3 chain ; repeat from * to end of rov -turn with 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 4th row — same as 3rd. 5th chain, 3 treble into loop of 3 chain, 6 chain, I double, catching up the 3 loops of 8 chain made in the 3 previous rows, * 6 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble into the loop of 3 chain ; repeat from * to the end of row ; repeat from 2nd row. D'OYLEY. With No. 30 cotton and fine hook make 12 chain, unite into a ring, into this work 24 trebles. 3rd round — 6 chain, slip stitch it into 4th treble ; repeat. 4th round— 8 chain in every 6 chain hole. 5th round — 10 treble into every 8 chain hole; fasten off. 6th round — put your needle into the 5th treble, make 11 chain, slip stitch it into the 5th treble of every group. 7th round — 2 chain,- 4 treble 4 times into every 11 chain hole. 8th. round — 10 chain, slip stitch it into every 2nd 2 chain hole, gth 1.56 round — 8 treble, i double crochet into every 10 chain hole, loth round — 4 chain, I treble into the 4th treble, 3 chain, i treble in the I double crochet stitch, * 3 chain, i treble into the next 4th treble, 3 chain, i treble into the next double crochet stitch ; repeat from *. nth round — 6 chain into every hole. : 12th round — 6 chain into every 6 chain hole. 13th round — 7 chain into every 6 chain hole. 14th round— 4 treble into every 7 chain hole. 1 5th round — 4 treble into the 3rd treble, 3 chain, i double crochet into the centre of the next 4 treble, * 3 chain, 4 treble into the centre of the next 4 trebles, 3 chain, i double into the centre of the next 4 trebles ; repeat from *. i6th round — * 4 trebles into the centre of the 4 treble, 4 chain, i double into the double crochet stitches ; repeat from *. 17th round^4 chain, i treble into the centre of the 4 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble into the same hole, ^ 3 chain, i treble into the centre of the next 4 trebles, 3 chain, i treble into the same hole, 3 chain, i treble into the I double stitch ; repeat from *. 1 8th round — 6 chain into every treble stitch. 19th round — 6 chain into every 6 chain hole. 20th round — 7 chain into every 6 chain hole. 2 1st round — 4 treble into every 7 chain hole. 22nd round — 4 treble between 2 groups of trebles, * 3 chain; i double between 2 more groups, 3 chain, 4 trebles between 2 more groups ; repeat from *. 23rd round — 4 trebles in the centre of the last 4 trebles, 4 chain, I double into the double stitch,.* 4 chain, 4 trebles into the centre of the next 4 trebles, 4 chain, I double into the double stitch ; repeat from *. 24th round — 4 trebles into the centre of the 4 trebles, * 5 chain, I double into the double stitch, 5 chain, 4 trebles into the centre of the 4 trebles ; repeat from *. 25th round — 5 double crochet into the 5 chain holes, and i double crochet into every treble stitch. TRIMMING FOR DRESS, WITH ROSARY BEADS Foundation row ■ — 10 chain, * miss I, 9 double, I chain, turn, 4 double worked into the back strands only of the last double stitches, 5 treble into I stitch, take out the needle and insert it into the first of the 5 trebles, draw through the loop of the last treble toclosethegroup; 4 double into the back strands of last row, i chain, turn, 9 double into both strands of last row, i chain, turn, 2 double into the back strands, 5 treble into i, close the group ; 3 double into the back strands, 5 treble into I, close the group, 2 double into the back strand, I chain,"turn, 9 double into both strands of last row, i chain, turn, 4 double into the back strands, 5 treble into i, close the group, 4 double into the back strands, i chain, turn, 9 double into both strands of last row, i chain, turn, 9 double into the back strands of last row, 1 1 chain ; repeat from * for the desired length. 2nd row — work I double into the top corner of the first square of the foundation row, 14 chain, i double over the next chain stitch between the squares, 7 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the 7tli of the 14 chain, draw through the loop, 7 chain, i double into the 1st of the 7 chain, 8 chain, i double over the same chain stitch between the squares, 7 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the 1st of the 8 chain, draw through the loop, 6 chain, i double into the top corner of the next square ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 3rd row — i double into the double of last row worked into the top of the ist square,** i long stitch into the ist loop of last row formed by 7 chain, * 2 chain, i long stitch into the same loop, repeat from * 7 times more ' into the same loop, i double into the double on the top of the next square, repeat from * * to the end of the row. 4th row— I double into the first 2 chain in last row, *4 chain, i single into the ist of the 4 chain, i double into the next 2 chain of last row, repeat from * 6 times more, 2 chain, i double into the 2 chain of the next scallop ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 5th row — at the opposite side of the foundation row work as follows — i double into the top corner of the ist square, * 15 chain, i double over the chain stitch between the squares, work this double stitch between the 2 double stitches worked over the same stitch from the other side of the foundation row, 8 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the 7th stitch of the 1 5 chain, draw through the loop, 6 chain, i double into the top corner of the next square ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 6th row — i treble into the ist double of last row, * I Chain, miss 1, 1 treble ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 7th row — i treble into the first treble of last row, * i chain, miss j, i treble, 3. chain, miss 3, 1 treble; repeat from * to the end of the row. 8th row— same as 6th. Natural. Conventional. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. » »■ » < » m t ^ On the Painting of Useful Articles for our Homes. CHAPTER VI. ( PIANO FRONTS-DOOR PANELS. The suggestions already given in our April number for the method of painting American cloth wall splashers will apply equally well to piano fronts made of the same material. A very effective design, and an uncommon one, is a representation of the seasons, painted on deep cream tinted cloth. The cloth is marked out into four squares, appropriate flowers to each season being painted in each, such as anemones, poppies, sunflowers, chrysanthemums, and Christmas roses, treated as if growing from the lower edge, or a spray of apple blossom, jasmine, mauve, clematis, &c., spreading over the entire surface, yet not crowding it. When the painting is finished, the front is made complete by a narrow border, worked in rich yellows and browns, sewn round each square. A piano scarf, to match the width of the piano, and sufficiently long to allow of its hanging about twelve inches over each end, adds very considerably to the effect, and can be obtained at comparatively little cost and trouble, as the ends only are to be painted, the whole being edged with narrow bordering to match the squares in the front. Sometimes an ornamental covering is hung over the back of the piano, but the painting of such a large surface is rather a serious undertaking for an amatevir, as nothing but bold subjects are suitable, the effect only being aimed at, fine work being entirely out of place. In a large subject, such as this would be, birds might be introduced with advantage, on the wing, and also settling on plants like the arum lily, fox glove, pampas grass, &c., or on branches of guel- der rose, wistaria, laburnum, &c. If the painter has a little inventive power, numberless pretty designs can be thought of and used with effect. It is difficult to suggest designs that would be suited to every drawing room, but with these few hints we trust our readers may be helped to originate ideas for themselves, and appropriate in tone and form to the rooms they think of decorating. Door Panels can be had (if wished) to harmonise with the piano. They may be made of American cloth. Pieces to fit the panels exactly should be cut, and then fastened on to a drawing-board, as before described, and then painted before being put on the door. Arum lilies, or water plants, as iris, bulrushes, and large reeds, look well growing from the lower into the upper panels ; whilst from field flowers growing in the lower, and a branch of cherry or apple blossom, and the great bind-weed with its large wax-like bells, turning round and hanging down, capital designs may be made. Birds and dragon flies may be added, and tend to give life to the picture. The wood itself can be painted, but most people prefer panels that can be fastened on to the door, as, if the former plan is adopted, the wood requires to be prepared for painting, which many amateurs find troublesome, and besides, unless the house is one's own, it is pre- ferable to have panels that can be removed on leaving. Small landscapes form beautiful and effective panellings ; and now that copies designed especially for this purpose are to be obtained at so little trouble, the work is made easy and pleasant. For a dining- room a good stencilled freehand design in black on dark wood looks well. Or the panels can be fitted with the same leather covering the furniture, having a conventional design painted on them. This makes a handsome decoration. In case some of our readers may not understand clearly what a conventional design is, we insert two drawings, one of a naturol heartsease, the other of a heartsease com:en(io)i.o&«/,. This, we think, will give a better idea of what we mean than a mere explanation in writing of the term could do. When wishing to draw a flower in a conventional orm, pull the flower carefully to pieces, and arrange the petals and leaves flat on the board in a pattern, and that will give the eftect aimed at. But to return. Panels of looking glass are sometimes (though rarely) used in drawing-rooms, but the effect (at least to our eye) is too gaudy and bright to be pleasing, besides which looking glass Vol. n.— No. SI. makes the door very heavy, and great care has to be taken in fit- ting them in their places. However, they may be used to lighten a very dark room. Velvet panels are effective, but, of course, are more adapted for dining-rooms than drawing-rooms. The velvet or plush may be used instead if preferred, should be cut to exactly fit the panels, and then stretched on a board, plenty of drawing pins must be used, inserting them about one inch apart all the way round. Ordinary oil paints are used, which are to be mixed with sacrum (sugar of lead) as a medium instead of Meguilp. Draw the design in Chinese white ; this will not be found very easy as the texture of the material causes the brush to frequently swer\'e from the desired lines. With patience, however, the difficulty can be surmounted, and then the painting may be attempted in the usual manner. In choosing a design, take into consideration the colour of the velvet, for light subjects look best on a dark ground, and dark on a light ground. The piano front and over scarf can also be of velvet to correspond. A very effective way of decorating with painted velvet, and far easier for an amateur to accomplish quickly, and with satisfaction is the application- of painted flowers with their leaves on to a different material, cloth, silk, satin, or even plush. The designs are painted on a strip of pale-tinted velvet, sucih as cream, pale salmon pink, grey, &c., and when finished they are cut out, and appliqued on to the material to be decorated by chain or buttonhole stitch in silk. Very handsome portieres and curtains can be made in this way, and indeed for any large piece of work this method is generally more effective and practicable than painting directly on so large a piece of material would be. A mantel board and curtains look particularly well decorated in this manner, as also do cushions, small table corners, antimacassars, brackets, &c. ; but many ideas for the carrying out of this plan will, we are sure, suggest themseh-es to our readers themselves. It is by no means necessary to applique the flowers on to expensive material ; art serge, which is to be had in almost every shade, can be used with equal effect, a nd has the advantage of not costing half the price of the materials mentioned before, which said advantage is, we know, of consideration to many. Before closing these remarks, we should like to obser\'e that whe-n speaking of drain-pipes we omitted to mention that the drain-pipe should, before being painted, have a coating of co mmon size put over it, which must be permitted to become quite dry before painting. A Coloured Slieet of Dolls Given Away. A^ow rcadi/, price '2d. HOW TO JmESS DOLLS INU CHiLDUE-Y By Mrs. LEACH. lUnstratiniis of various ct stumes for Di.lls. with full descriptions for cutting out, m ikiiig and 1 'reining, with Coloured Shuct I'f Doll-.; also a plain outline fiijc* f.>r little ones to colo r. l^y fost, -.'Id. ill stumps. Sow remli/j price 2d, HOW TO MAKE Infants' Clothing By Mis. LEACH. "00 illnstniti'inF: of Complete I^^ ette.'s, ShorteniiiciSets.CKak?!. Robes, To lissf 9, vilhfnU descrip- tions for cnttii-g-oiit, niakiDg' aLd trimiiiiug. ptic-t fixe 2id. i-jj THE FANCY VVORlt-BASKET, Art Needlework. As in everything else, there is a fashion in fancy work. Just at present it seems to be that which is done on perforated cloth, with small pieces of plush appliqued on. All kinds of useful articles are made in this style of work— tea cosies, slippers, antimacassars, val- lances, and very pretty little pipe cases to hang against the wall, in the shape oi illustration. The piece across the pattern is a straight strip put on, so that a space is left standing out from the foundation to place the pipes in. Other materials may be used for this useful little article for gentlemen. Olive green satin, with a gold cord all round, and to be loyal, the coat of arms embroidered at the top. Many ladies still prefer doing crochet to more elaborate fancy work, and therefore the various coloured cottons employed instead of the old fashioned white will find favour with them; ecru and cardinal or grass green, pale blue and ecru, drab and pink are contrasts which make very pretty antimacassars. We saw raised roses in two shades of pink, and the outside green, which was very effective. To make the rose commence by forming a ring of 5 chain ; into this work 5 loops of 4 chain, then 6 double into each, but commence and finish with a single stitch, so as to form the oval necessary for the shape of the leaf. Next 5 chain from oval to oval (at the back of leaf), then eight double crochet, beginning and end- ing with one single. So continue increasing each row until you have the size rose you require. Round it work 6 chain, fasten into third, 6 more into next leaf, continue. 2nd row — 6 chain, back to third, 6 more, back to third and into second loop. All the rows are done in the same manner, and generally 5 are sufficient, but much depends upon the worker. All the Irish crochet is done in this way, which gives it such a complicated appearance. The imitation leather which is sold so cheaply, and perforated in such pretty pat- terns, forms many favourite useful articles — letter racks 4|d., wall pockets 3|d. to 6d., newspaper cases is., hand screens, mats, &c. , &c., equally inexpensive. The wall pockets or tidies are large squares, and are folded envelope style, the three corners tied with ribbon while the other forms the back, and is suspended by it. These useful and ornamental articles are made in silvered cardboard, but the leather colour shows up better ; lined with cardinal or blue satin or sateen, and little bows of ribbon, an effective and in- expensive pocket is formed. Some are perforated so as to be worked with silk in cross stitch, or any design preferred. For the benefit of any ladies unable to buy them in the country, we will give further particulars by letter prepaid. The new decorative Art Needlework for mantelpiece, piano, or chair covers, &c., is a design of sprays of flowers worked in semi-conventional old English style upon linen, and appliqued on undyed velveteen, the colour of which resembles a well baked biscuit. A scroll pattern in shaded greens and ruby looks well on this ground. The chenille, which may be had in two sizes, has taken the place of arrasene. A design of guelder roses was executed in French knots, with chenille shaded from white to greyish greens for the shadow. The leaves were worked in crewel stitch with filoselle. A design worked in tent stitch — that is, crossed over two lines of the canvas with chenille, and the ground filled in with filoselle, is effective for cushions, foot- stools or mats, worked in olive greens and light blue, or 3 or 4 shades of cardinal. .Stamped velveteen or damask are well con- structed materials for embroidery stitches. Those with a leaf pattern are particularly suitable. One half of the leaf should be worked in French knots, and the other in satin stitch. The whole may be outlined with tinsel cord. Those ladies who cannot manage the 158 knots should use beads* There afe all sorts of Jubilee articles, and crowns and coat of arms are on everything, from bonnets to boots ; but when the design is woven in lace, it can be cut out and appliqudd on satin or velvet for a variety of purposes for decoration. For instance, the design put on dark olive green or black satin, and outlined with gold cord, then the crown filled in with scarlet filoselle and gold cord, the lion and unicorn with fawn colour, and the likeness of the Queen painted, would make a charming centre for a black satin hand screen surrounded by gold fringe. If any trouble is found in mounting or expense is to be considered, a pair of the cheap perforated ones mentioned previously could be covered with satin, and the handles painted with gold paint or Aspinall's Enamel, which can be had in any colour from Aspinall's Enamel Works, Peckham, London, S.E., if it cannot be procured at an oilshop or chemist's in the neighbourhood. A small tin costs is. gd. post free. Fawn colour or hedge sparrow's egg tint are both admirable for doing up work baskets that have become shabby. When used for that purpose, though, it is better to mix a little turpentine with it to thin the enamel. NOVELTIES IN P^ANCY WORK. A Pillow Sliam ranks among the latest innovations, and comes from America. It is a pretty and suitable bedroom decoration, and very easy to make. It is simply a long strip of cambric or linen, ornamented with lace and ribbons or embroidery, which is laid over the top part of the bed during the daytime. It should be made to just fit the width of the bed without falling down over the sides. The simplest are those made of linen, having the owner's name or initials embroidered in one comer (the letters being about three inches high), and finished with an edging of Torchon lace. A more elaborate one can be made with four hem-stitched handker- chiefs, joined together by inserting between each a strip of Torchon lace insertion, and bordering the handkerchiefs lengthways with the same, so that each handkerchief is surrounded with insertion. In the comer of one handkerchief the first initial of the owner's Chris- tian name should be embroidered. A frill of Torchon lace edges the whole, and just above the embroidered corner is placed a bow of ribbon carelessly tied. The fashionable little Hold-all bags, instead of being used for odds and ends of silk, buttons, hooks, tape, &c., now find a conspicuous place in the drawing-room knick- knacks as flower vases. To make them, one yard of satin ribbon is required; the colour might be bright brown with gold on the reverse side, and should be 3 inches wide. Divide the ribbon into four. Take two of the pieces and make them into bags by sewing up the sides and hemming the opening ; but before doing this with the remaining two pieces, they are to be embroidered, either with initials or small sprays of flowers, in gold coloured silk. When the embroidery is finished sew up these two and hem them like the others. There are now four tiny bags. In each are to be made four eyelet holes; these must be round, not very big, and opposite to each other, and at the extreme corners of the opening. The bags must now be sewn together, by overcasting the inner side of one bag (with the monogram turned outwards) to the outer side of one of the undecorated bags ; now sew the other plain bag to the outer side of the first plain bag, and sew the fourth bag (keeping the decorated side outwards) to the inner side of the third bag. Now take a silk lace and run it through the eyelet holes to form a drawing string. The bag is now complete, and only wants to be filled. Take four small penny tumblers, roll a small piece of American cloth round each and fill with flowers; you have now a very elegant receptacle for flowers, and one that is most easy to make. The following is a novel Photograph Frame. Collect a quantity of old corks and crumble them up into pieces of all sizes ; having done this, cut a frame the required size out of brown straw board or cardboard, which cover thickly with glue, and while the glue is wet sprinkle the pieces of cork over it so as to completely cover the straw board. A piece of glass can be fastened in by means of ribbon glued round the edge of the glass and frame. A piece of cardboard should be glued on behind the glass, having a slit across the base of the frame through which the photograph is to be passed. Instead of this piece of cardboard red silk can be used, the lower edge of which sh ould be left unfastened. When the frame is complete it looks as if made of most beautifully carved wood. A charming Candlestick Ornament can be made by ladies having deft fingers and time at their disposal. A foundation must first be made of a circular piece of cardboard about three inches in dia- meter, having a hole large enough for the candle to pass through cut in the centre. A piece of thin silk larger than the foundation is then cut (any colour can be used) ; with this the cardboard is to be covered, the silk being finely gathered at the edge and again in the t^siaaasaaam THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, cehtre. The raw edges are turned under and gummed to the card- board on the inside. Flat gold beads are sewn on the fluted silk round the outside edge. The frame should then be lined with a piece of cardboard the same size lined with plain silk, and the two pieces are then to be glued together. The whole is then finished with a fringe composed of gold and garnet beads, which are strung on fine silk cord and sewn on round the edge of the cardboard. These ornaments prove very acceptable presents, especially when made in sets of four or si.\. The next on our list is a Scented Sachet, which is made of silk or satin in the form of a bag, only cutting ofif the left-hand corner of the base. A narrow piece of embroidered ribbon is then sewn on, crossing thebag dingonally from the right-hand top corner to the left-hand side. The end of the ribbon must fit into the corner from which a piece has been cut. The edges of the bag are finished off with silk cord, the whole being lined with silk and tied in at the top with cord and tassels. A muslin bag of scent is then put inside the silk bag. The High- land Bonnet for pence is quite a novelty; it is made of Berlin wool. To knit it you require one small skein of each dark blue, white, and scarlet. Five needles. No. 22, are used. The band part of of the bonnet is composed of two rows of white and red dice or squares, and the cap part of entirely dark blue. Cast on 48 stitches with scarlet. 1st round — knit 3 plain, then 3 plain with white, repeat. 2nd round — 3 plain, then purl 3 white, repeat. 3rd round — 3 plain red, 3 purl white, repeat. 4th. round — 3 plain red, 3 purl white, repeat. 5tli round — 3 plain white, 3 purl red, repeat. 6th round — 3 purl white, 3 plain red, repeat. Repeat last row twice more. This finishes the diced band. Now fasten on the dark blue wool, and work the 1st 4 rounds plain. 5th round— increase a stitch by picking up r on the front of the left-hand pin from the ^vrong side of the row below, and work it. In this way increase 10 times in working this round, increase about every 5th stitch, mak- ing in all when the round is finished 58 stitches. 6th round — plain, and four more rounds. 11th round — increase as in the 5th round 14 times, making 72 stitches. 12th round— plain, and 8 more rounds. 21st round — take in 14 times in the same proportion as you increased, which will reduce it again to 58 stitches. 2Snd roujid — plain, and i more round. 24th round — take in 12 times, in all 46 stitches. 25th round — plain, and i more round. 27th round — take in 12 times, leaving 34 stitches. 28th round — plain, and i more round. 30th round — take in 8 times, leaving 27 stitches. 31st round — plain, and i more round. 33rd round — take in 6 times, leaving 20 stitches. 34th round— plain. 35th round — take in 6 times, leaving 14 stitches. 36th round — plain. 37th round — take in 7 times; now you have only 7 stitches on the needles. Break off the wool, leaving enough, however, to catch up the 7 stitches with a needle, which draw close together and fasten it well on the wrong side. Add a small tuft of red wool in the centre of the crown. If required for a purse, the whole of these propor- tions may be doubled. The purse should be finished with a round snap, which shuts like the top of a box. FEATHER BUTTERFLY. Butterflies made from feathers, or, rather, goose quills, and painted in the natural colours, with thick chenille for the body, are used by many of the best milliners, and very pretty they look, appearing as if just settled on the flowers in front of the bonnet or hat. Our illustration is composed of four wings cut out of broad white feathers, and coloured brown with violet spots SBrrounded with white. Smaller ones could be painted light blue. The shading by the body should be of yellow and red. Full direc- tions for painting on any material has been given in the articles on " Painting" in the " Work-Basket." Oil paints would be the best for feathers. CANADIAN SOFA CUSHION. A Canadian chair or sofa cushion, made exactly like a sluffed sack or bag, would be much appreciated by any one who likes a change from the usual squarecushion, and would afford a good field for almost all kinds of embroidery. Pale blue satin and olive green plush would be pretty mate- rials to use for one of these pillows. The cushion should measure about fifteen inches long by seventeen inches wide, but the plush should be cut about twenty inches long and eighteen inches wide, to allow for the frill at the top and for the seams. The sides and the bottom of the plush must be neatly stitched up, so that a long and narrow bag is made. The top of this bag must be lined inside for a. depth of about five inches with the pale blue satin, and a running made four inches from the top, into which a piece of tape should be run, with which to draw up the mouth of the bag very tightly. The running should be con- cealed by a broad piece of satin ribbon, passed round the neck of the bag and tied at the left side in a bow, with long loops and flowing ends. Ribbons of the two colours intermingled should be used for this bow. The frill at the top of the cushion should stand upright, and here and there the blue satin lining should peep out among the folds. Any ornamental embroidery that is most convenient to the worker can be carried out on the front of this cushion. A handsome coat of arms with a coronet at the top would show to advantage here. GERMAN WORK-BAG. A German work-bag we saw lately would be appreciated by ladies who like something capa- cious and e.xpanding in form. This particular shape has not only this qualification, but also the very convenient one of folding up perfectly flat when out of use. Its appearance when in use is, perhaps, not altogether elegant, but it is so ex- tremely useful that this is but a minor consi- deration. Satin is a better material to use for this bag than plush, as two of the sections are folded in half lengthwise when the bag is empty, and plush would become marked and bear too many traces of such usage. Four sides are required, each measuring fourteen inches in length and five inches and a half in width in the middle, and tapering to a point at each end. These pieces of satin are embroidered hand- somely with any appropriate design, and then sewn together down the sides, leaving about five inchesunsewn in one of the seams near the end. A similar bag is then cut out and made of sarcenet to serve as a lining ; it must be slipped inside the satin one, and tacked here and there to the seams to keep it in place. It must also be very neatly turned in and stitched round the unsewn part that forms the opening of the bag. On the point, at the end where the seam was left open, a few loops of cord are sewn, or a dainty bow of ribbon ; at the other point must be added a large tassel, matching the rest of the bag in colour. Sometimes these bags are made of three sides instead of four, and of dull brown velvet or cloth ; they are then known as Brazil-nut work-bags, and are useful for holding knitting. In this shape the opening is made the whole length of the side. If a thinner material is used than velvet or cloth, the sections of the bag may be cut out in cardboard, which is covered with the mate- rial and afterwards lined. Something similar as to shape is made in the popular German felt, to be embroidered on the sides with long stitches or cross-stitch in filoselle. Ver>' dainty bags may be made in this shape ; but of cretonne lined with sateen instead ot velvet or satin they are particularly useful for holding a store of odds and ends of wool, knitting cotton, &c. Made in quite a small 159 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET size, they are handy for containing the ball of wool or cotton when one is engaged in knitting or crochet, as the loops of ribbon or cord at one end of the bag serve to fasten it to the waistband or other convenient part of the dress. The end of the wool is, of course, drawn through the slit, and the whole ball of wool prevented from becoming soiled from any rolling on to the floor it might otherwise endure. POST-CARD CASE. For this little trifle, plush, cardboard, satin, and fine cord are the materials required. For the back of it, a piece of card- board is required, measuring five inches and a half long by three inches and a half wide. For the front, cut a piece of card to measure the same as the back piece, but cut a tri- angular piece out of the top right hand corner, so that it measures five inches and a half long on one side and three inches long on the other. The triangular piece thus cut off must be put aside, as it will be afterwards needed. Two strips of card are now needed for the sides of the case; one must measure one inch and a half in width and five and a half long, the second piece must be of the same width, but three inches long only. The piece for the bottom must be an inch and a half wide and three inches and a half long. All these five pieces of cardboard must be care- fully covered with plush and lined with satin. Now cut out a piece of the same lining about an inch larger all round than the triangular piece of card. Either embroider on it a small spray of flowers, the name of the owner, or the words Post-Cards, according to fancy. Then cover the card with it and stick it in its place on the post-card case as shown in the sketch. Next sew the other pieces of card to- gether, the small strip at the bottom, the longer strips at the side, the large oblong piece of card at the back, and the piece from which the corner was cut in front. If the case is to star-don a table a rest can be made for the back of it by cutting a strip of cardboard four inches long and an inch and a half wide, and sewing it at one end to the middle of the case at the back about an inch and a half below the top. The other end, of course, will rest on the table and support the post-card case at a convenient angle. Connect it with the back part by taking a small piece of black elastic and sewing one end of it to the case and the other to the strip of card that is used as a leg or rest. This will prevent the rest from flying out too far to the back and so upsetting the case. Very fine cord will be required with which finally to outline the seams. A small strap of plush may be sewn at the side of the case to hold a pencil, to add to the conveni- ence of it. ROUND CASE FOR KNITTING, &c. A convenient case for holding knitting and other work can be made of very fine canvas closely worked all over with filoselle in a geometric cross-stitch pattern. Two rounds of cardboard are first cut out, measuring about two inches and a half across. Cover them carefully on both sides with coloured silk or satin. Cut the canvas nine inches long and seven inches the other way. When the canvas is thoroughly worked, line it with some of the same silk or satin that the circles are covered with, bind it all round with coloured ribbon to correspond, and sew it carefully nearly all round the circles, leaving about three or four inches unsewn. Add a couple of buttons and a couple of loops to the upper part to correspond. Cut a band of canvas an inch wide, embroider, bind and line it to match the 160 other part, and sew it across the top of the large part of the case, as shown in the woodcut. A eord must be sewn round the seams. Made in a larger size, these cases are useful for holding music. They can be made of plush, satin or any other convenient material. Grey plush lined with rose-coloured satin and trimmed with rose- coloured cord is a particularly happy combination. THE WIDOWS CRUSE, or Ever-Full Pincushion. The " wido w's cruse, " or ever-full pincushion, is one which offers many at- tractions to thosewho workmuch. Its small size permits of its finding room in the smallestwork-basket, while its six sides supply ample room for pins. To make it, cut 12 squares of thick paper, or very thin cardboard ; cover six of these with rich silk or satin, and the other six with zephyr or some similar soft lining. Sew these last six together, as though making patchwork, into a sort of box or cube, leaving one seam unsewn. Take out the papers, and stuff very tightly with bran, then sew up the remaining seam. Make up the satin squares in the same way, but leave three sides unsewn to enable the pincushion to slip in easily. Take out the cards, slip in the bran-filled cushion and sew down the lid. Finish by tacking cord down the seams, with a knot or small loop of cord at each corner to hide the necessary joins. Thenameof "widow's cruse" was given to these cushions because they are seldom empty, pins are usually to be found in one or another of the many sides. The sides can be embroidered, or if preferred, a monogram or pattern can be made with pins. It is effective when each side is studded with different coloured pins. An easier, but not so painstaking a way of making the inside case, is to make a fat two-sided bag which will press into shape when in the satin cover. They also look pretty if each side is covered with satin of a different colour. A measurement of two inches each way makes a very convenient sized pincushion, but it can easily be varied. Oblong cushions, three inches long by two inches across and one inch deep, are almost equally useful but not so pretty. ORNAMENTS FROM EGGS. There are numerous me- thods by which common egg shells can be converted into pretty orna- ments. If the egg shell only is to be used, very pretty land- scapes and other designs may be painted on it with ordinary paints. The substance will be found a little rough, but very pleasant to paint on, and especially satisfactory are those that are of a pinkish-brown tint ; they show up the orna- mentation so much better than very white ones do. A pretty little stand for matches may be made of an egg shell, the pointed end of which has been broken ofif. The shell must be carefully cleaned and all the inside membrane scraped off. Then a pretty design painted outside. To hide the jagged edge at the top, stick round it on the right side a beading of narrow gold paper. This may be bought at almost any stationer's, but if it is not easily obtained, a very narrow coloured border, such as is sold for sticking into scrap books, will answer well. If a second piece of the border chosen is stuck round the top of the egg shell, the rough edge will be entirely hidden. Get a flat round piece of wood to form a stand for the egg shell, and glue the shell to it in an upright positioii, smother the top of the stand with gum, and stick moss and small pieces of dried grass all over it. Of late, in the London streets, men have been hawking most charming little models of cocks, hens, pheasants and owls, varying in price from a penny upwards. One THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. of these fowls would do capitally to stand on the moss by the side of the egg shell. Get a piece of emery or sand paper and stick it underneath to the wooden stand. This is to strike the matches on. It would look very effective and pretty to gild the egg shell, and to stick a miniature goose beside it, in allusion to the old fable. A similar, but more elaborate stand may be made of 4 egg shells, matching as well as possible in tint and form. Glue a peg about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil upright in the centre of the flat round wooden stand, taking care that it is the same height as the 3 egg shells. These must be glued to the stand in a group, and filled with a little light sand in which a few wee fern fronds are placed ; the 4th must be glued to the top of the «- wooden peg, which serves it as a'' ' pedestal. Put a little light sand and a tiny fern into this also, and fill the crevices round the 4 shells with little tufts of moss to hide imperfections ; the stand itself must also be covered with moss stuck on over it. A little nest can easily be contrived of hay and moss, glued to a stand and with one egg or more in it, accord- ing to its size. Each egg must be laid in the moss so that the broken edge is hidden, but when taken out of the nest, a little gift of some kind must be discovered hidden away inside — a tiny pencil case, set of studs, brooch and similar trifles. A quaint little bag to contain buttons and such small things may be made of an egg shell, ornamented with painting and the upper edge concealed as before described, with a beading of coloured paper. A small bag is then made of thin coloured silk, as fine and soft as possible, the top of it being drawn up with very narrow China ribbon of the same colour. The lower edge of this bag is glued firmly to the top of the egg shell. Needless to say, these fanciful trifles, from the perishable materials of which they are made, cannot last very long, but they give occasion for the exercise of a considerable amount of patience and ingenuity and afford a great deal of pleasure for the time being. CARD CASES. The neat little card case shown in fig. i is made of satin lined with moir6 silk, and fitted up with a pencil, pocket for cards and a notebook. It is not difficult to make, but requires great nicety and neatness of manipulation. First cut a piece of firm cardboard measuring 5 inches and a half by 4 inches and a quarter. Fold this twice across its width, so that a space of half an inch is left in the exact middle between these two folds. If preferred, two pieces of card may be cut for the sides of the case, each measuring 5 inches and a half by 3 inches and 3 quarters. These two pieces must be united by a stout piece of tape half an inch wide, sewn down a side of each. This tape forms the hinge, and is more durable than the cardboard. Cut a piece of dark crimson satin, measuring half an inch more all round than the cardboard. Embroider it with a spray of small flowers or a conventional design on one side, and the mono- gram of the owner on the other. It maybe painted instead of worked if more convenient. Be careful not to draw or pucker the satin during the process of embroidery, or it will not set well. Cover the cardboard tightly and smoothly with the satin, fixing the edges down on the wrong side with either glue or embroidery paste. Then lay it aside under a heavy weight to dry. While it is drying, prepare the lining. Cut the moire as much larger than the case as you did the satin. Cut four triangular pieces of satin, as shown in the woodcut, line them with stout, stiff hoUand to keep them firm, and fix them in the corners of the lining. As this is done before the lining is put into the case the edges of the triangles may be turned over to the wrong side and kept in place there with a few stitches. Next cut six pieces of narrow ribbon about an inch anda quarter long, place a piece of tape just a trifle narrower in sandwich fashion between each pair, and stitch each down the sides, thus making three narrow straps. Lay the ends of each strap together so as to form three loops. Stitch each loop firmly to the sides of the moire lining, two on one side, far apart, and the third in the middle of the other side. These loops are to hold a pocket-book pencil, and their being arranged in this fashion will serve to keep the case closed. By the time this is done, the outside cover will probably be dry, and the two must be stitched together firmly, but with very tiny stitches, all round the edges. Finally an extremely fine gold cord is sewn round the edges to conceal the stitches. Another way of managing the lining of cases like these is to stretch the moir6 over cardboard just as the outside was done, and then to glue the two cards together. The dis- advantage of this plan is, however, that with use the two sets of cards are apt to come apart. The sewing makes a much stronger case. The visiting cards are slipped in under the triangular pieces on one side and a number of pieces of paper, all cut exactly the same size, under the other two corners inside the case. These pieces of paper, intended for memoranda, should be tinted so that they are easily to be distinguished from the visiting cards. A piece of china ribbon or narrow elastic may be fastened from edge to edge in the middle and a number of double sheets of paper passed under it in book fashion if preferred, then the lady using the case will have the second set of corners available for her husband's cards. Gentle- men's card cases are made on exactly the same principle, but the size is different and the arrangement of the pockets slightly changed. For instance, it should measure 2 inches by 3 and a half when finished; only one double set of triangles should be sewn inside, the other side of the lin- ing being taken up by one very large triangular pocket, intended for the reception of a season ticket or postage stamps. A pencil may or may not be added, according to fancy. If preferred, cases of this kind may be made quite limp, without any inside lining of card- board. NEWSPAPER CASE. A pretty wall-pocket for containing newspapers or music can be made like the above sketch, of satin, watered silk, and cardboard, very simply and easily. A short length of broad black elastic and some coloured cord or ribbon will also be required. Cut a piece of cardboard to measure fifteen inches by twelve inches and a half wide, and a second piece measuring twelve inches and a half in width, and eleven and a half in depth. Cut out this top part into a sort of zig-zag, as shown in the illustration, so that the shortest side measures only four inches in depth. Take the satin and paint or embroider on it either the name or initials oftheo\\'ner and a floral design of some kind, then stretch it carefully over the zigzag piece of satin, nicking it where the indentation comes, so as to make it set quite flat. Then line it with the watered silk. The straight piece of card which is intended as the back of the case must be covered with watered silk, and the back lined with sateen or any material of the kind. As this part is to hang against the wall, the nature of the material used is of no particular consequence. Sew the lower edge of the curved and ornamented piece to the lower edge of the "back of the case, and at the side, sew two pieces of 161 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. broad black elastic, the bottom piece being about an inch shorter than the upper piece, which should measure about four inches in length. These elastics serve as hinges, and roust be sewn on each side of the wall-pocket ; it will be found very capacious, and as it readily expands, a great many newspapers can be slipped into it. Made of plush, they are often useful for containing music, while charming little letter cases can be made to measure six inches by four, and covered daintily with a pretty shade of satin. Cord and tassels or ribbon must be used to hang them to the wall by. Various alterations, too, may be made in the shape ; with a little ingenuity, they can be cut like a Brobdingnagian Japanese hand screen, or an artist's palette, a shield, and in various other quaint forms. NEEDLEBOOK. These quaint old - fashioned looking little articles are pretty and useful for using in a bran pie at a fancy fair, as well as for small gifts. Cut four pieces of card the shape of the body of a pair of bellows, without either handle or nozzle. Cover them on one side with a pretty piece of pale coloured brocaded silk. Put the cards thus covered together in pairs, the ornamental side outside, of course. Sew them together at the edges, leaving one set of cards unsewn just at the top and bottom where the shape narrows. Cut two very thin pieces of white flannel or merino the shape of the cards, but just a trifle smaller. Notch the edges delicately, lay the leaves between the cards and attach them with a few stitches at the top, then tie a pale blue ribbon there to form a finish. The leaves of merino look very pretty if they are over- cast or button-holed round with pale blue silk. Pins are stuck in round the edges of the cards and a flat steel bodkin pushed down between the two cards where they have been left unsewn. Two rib- bon strings are added, with which to tie the covers together. Another way of making these, where they are to be used as pincushions only, is to cut two pieces of cardboard, and to cover one side of 162 each with the brocade. Take a piece of ribbon about | of an inch wid« and sew it at one edge to one of the brocade-covered cards^ Lay the card silk side downwards oh the table with the ritlbfeii standing up all round, so that it looks like the lid of a bellows- shaped box. Cut about four leaves of flannel aind lay them quite flatly one over the other inside the case prepared for them. Tken place the other card on the top and sew the ribbon to it neatly all round. Finish off by slipping a bodkin down all through to represent the handle and nose of the bellows, and add some loops and ends of ribbon. If a plain material be used instead of a brocaded one, the outside covers must be ornamented before they are made up with painting or embroidery. LETTER RACK. This pretty and novel little case for holding letters is sure to meet with approval, but although simple in construction it yet requires a fair amount of artistic ability and skill in the use of colours and brushes. A piece of rather stout cardboard, white in colour, a bottle of Le Page's Liquid Glue, and some old gold- coloured ribbon are required, to say nothing of patience and intelligence. Get a professional mount-cutter (if you cannot do it yourself) to cut out two pieces of cardboard the shape of the back of the rack, about 12 inches long and 4 inches wide. In one of these pieces of card 3 slits about an inch long must be cut about 3 inches apart. To make our meaning plainer, we may say that one slit must be across the middle of the cardboard back, one 3 inches above and one 3 inches below. With oil colours tint this piece of card brown, as far as possible to imitate a slab of wood. Next go into the garden and gather an ivy leaf, fully developed, but not mea- suring more than 4 inches at its widest part. Hold this leaf down flat on the cardboard, trace round with a lead pencil, then cut it care- fully out, taking care to leave a piece of card at the bottom as a very wide stalk, measuring about an inch wide and 2 long. Cut out 3 leaves like this, and colour them as far as possible to resemble nature. When the paint is quite dry take a leaf and slip the end of the stalk through the bottom slit in the cardboard back, securing it on the wrong side with a little glue. Then fix the second one in the same way, and finally the third also. When they, too, are dry, stick the other large piece of card at the back of the one which holds the leaves. If this is strongly and firmly done it will afford an additional means of security to the leaves. Bore a round hole in the top of the rack, slip a ribbon or cord and tassels through, and tie it up to serve to hang it by. To render this letter case quite satisfactory it must be made of extremely stout cardboard ; in fact, a very little less strong than wood. If the second piece of card is too heavy, a piece of stout cartridge paper may be substituted for it. Other kinds of leaves can be used as models besides ivy leaves, vine leaves are specially pretty, but a stroll round the garden will offer more suggestions than we can on paper. HORSESHOE NEEDLEBOOK. Needlebooks and notebooks in the shape of horseshoes are both novel and convenient. Cardboard, plush, thin silk, flannel, tinsel, narrow ribbon, and sewing silks of various colours are the materials required. The woodcut shows the shape in which the cardboard must be cut, the plush, silk and flannel must each be cut the same shape, but about three quarters of an inch smaller all round. Before covering the cardboard with the plush, embroider on it a large horse- shoe with Japanese tinsel, laying the tinsel on the outlines of the horseshoe and catching it down with gold-coloured silk. Use about three or four strands of tinsel put close together, and finally add the THE ''"ANCY '"OR/C-BASKET. nails of the shoe by means of beads sewn in among the tinsel, or by thick dots worked with dark brown crewel silk, in satin stitch. When this is done, the plush must be laid over the cardboard and secured on the wrong side with long stitches drawn across from edge to edge. Cover both pieces of card, line them with the thin silk and sew them together on the narrow edge. The leaves of flannel must be half an inch smaller all round than the cards, except on the narrow end, where they must be of the same size. Either bind these leaves with very narrow ribbon, or button-hole them at the edges, or pink out the edges in e.xceedingly small Vandykes. Sew in the leaves of flannel, tie up a dainty little bow of ribbon and stitch it at the back where the plush covers were joined. Sew on two strings of the ribbon, one on each side of the opposite end of the needle- book. Plush is too thick a material to use double, but if satin is used for the covers, two cards may be cut, each covered with the satin and sewn together at the edges. These covers will then be useful as a pincushion. If the little trifle is destined for a notebook, the only difference required is that the leaves shall be made of paper instead of flannel, and a pencil may be slipped into two loops at the side of the horseshoe. SUBSCRIPTION FORM FOR MRS, LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET. NOTICE. SubBcribers unable to procure the above from their Newsagent can have it forwarded direct from the Publisher for Twelve months, posl free, for Thirty Stamps. To the PUBLISHEB, Please to forward me MRS. LEACH'S For Twche Months, adilrcsscd to Mri Ss. Qd> enclosed. Commince with No. for fS'Tftli Subscription entitles )ou to any Extra Ngs. "^^im^^^"' HANDSOME MAT FOR A VASE. This mat is crocheted round blind cord, and has a border of daisy fringe, with crimson and pink «oses and their leaves. Materials re- quired ; 2 oz. black fleecy wool ; 3 oz. of bronze green single Berlin in 3 shades, dark, medium, and light ; i oz. pink ; 5 oz. crimson ; J oz. grass green ; J oz. brown, 7 yards of thick green window cord, 12 yards of wire, a bunch of seeds for the roses, and a fine bone crochet hook. Join the cord in a ring and sew securely ; with your black wool fill the ring with single crochet. Now work round the cord, working into the stitches you have just made; go on working single crochet all round the cord, always working in the stitches of previous row. When you have worked the cord all up, work a row of single to finish off. The border is of daisy fringe in 3 shades of bronze green. The daisy fringe was fully ex- plained in No. 5. There should be 12 strands of the fringe, and I to tie with; each shade is made separately. When you have made all the fringe cut the light and the dark into 2 pieces, the middle shade into 4, place 8 pins at equal distances round the mat about 3 inches from the edge, sew I portion of the dark in a nice bunch where I pin is, miss i pin and sew i portion of the light on the next pin, miss a pin and sew the dark on the next pin ; this will be opposite the other group of dark ; miss a pin and sew the remaining light opposite the other group of light. You have now 4 vacant pins; sew a portion of the middle shade into each of these spaces; the fringe should be in loops of 12 inches in length. Further hints as to sewing it on will be found in the No. referred to. Y'ou now commence to make the roses. Each leaf is made separately. Take a piece of wool 18 inches in length, hold it firmly and twist it round until you have about 2 inches left, thread this into a wool needle and pass down the centre of all the strands, i.e., right through the wool, drawing the wool through. The centres are made by taking 6 inches of wire and 6 seeds, double the seeds in halt and pass the wire in the middle, binding it into a loop. Now wind a piece of wool or thread tightly round the wire and seeds together. The leaves are sewn thickly round the centre, placing the side of one to the middle of the other, and the stem done round closely with the grass green wool. Make 2 large roses, one of pink and the other of crimson, of 30 leaves each ; make 6 small ones of 1 5 leaves, 3 pink and 3 crimson ; bind the 3 small pink ones together with the grass green, also the three small crimson ones. Make 4 fern leaves, 6 inches for each spray, 7 sprays for each leaf, double the wire in two and make a loop of the green for the top, with about an inch of the wool, wind the bronze 5 times round the wire, make another loop of green. Now wind the wool twice and make a loop the other side, wind it 5 times and make another loop, go on till you have 4 loops each side and I at the top. To make the fern take 3 sprays and wrap together with the brown wool for about i inch, take 2 more I on each side and wrap for another i inch, take 2 more and wrap till all the stems are covered. Place a fern under each large rose and groups of small ones. Now sew the roses on the border, put- ting them well into the fringe; sew the crimson ones on the light portion and the pink ones on the dark. All the fern leaves should go the same way. The mat is now complete. § ■ ' • ' }63 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. PRETTY MAT. Materials required : 2^ ozs. white Berlin wool, § oz. of pink, and a little grass green for the stems of roses, | a yard of white cashmere, a packet of dried moss, a bunch of seeds for the roses, a piece of cardboard lo inches square. Cut the edge of the cardboard into 6 scallops, cut 2 pieces of cashmere the same shape and lay on each side, sew the edges neatly together. Now make the fringe to sew on the edge. Make a chain of 14, turn, put wool twice round needle, insert hook in 4th chain from needle, draw wool through, then through 2 loops on needle, then through 2 again, leaving the last loop on your needle; repeat this 3 times more, you will have 5 loops on your needle; draw wool through all at once and make I chain. Work I single into the 2nd chain from where you worked your 4 trebles, 10 chain, and repeat until you have enough to sew round the mat for 3 rows about i inch apart. Now make 6 roses, 3 pink and 3 white, 15 leaves each, sew the moss thickly all round the inside of the mat, taking in the roses at equal distances, alternate pink and white. Knitting. HEXAGON FOR QUILT OR SOFA BLANKET. This design is one which we can strongly recommend, as it is easily worked and very pretty. It may be knitted in any sized or kind of cotton or wool, according to the taste of the worker. We mention three different kinds generally useful. For a coarse quilt in cotton nothing looks better than loom thread. No. 12; this cotton is 6cru coloured, and does not fade in washing if carefully done. Knitting needles. No. 14, by Walker's Bell Gauge, will suit this sized cotton. For a fine quilt use Strutt's best knitting cotton. No. 16, and needles of the same number also by Walker's Gauge. For ^ sofa blanket use double Berlin wool, or the best petticoat fingering wool, and needles, No. 6, by Walker's Gauge. This pattern may also be used for a pincushion cover. To make i measuring 4 inches across, use ordinary crochet cotton, No. 30, or loom thread. No. 3J and needles, No. 18. Knit 2 hexagons, and cut out 2 of calico, and 2 of any coloured satin or sateen, make up the cushion, leaving a small hole through which to stuff it with bran, which must be sewn over when the stuffing is completed. Then put on the cover, and finish round the edges \vith a small silk cord matching the outer lining of the cushion. To begin the hexagon, 4 needles of the number selected are required. Cast on 36 stitches on each of 3, commence knitting round and round as for a stocking. 1st round — knit. 2nd and 3rd rounds — purl. 4tli round and 5th round — knit. 6th. round — * knit 2 together, purl 7, make I by throwing the cotton over the needle, purl 7, knit 2 together ; repeat 5 times. 7th round — knit i, purl 7, knit I, purl 7, knit I ; repeat 5 times more. 8th round— Knit I, purl 7, make I, knit I, make i, purl 7, knit I ; repeat 5 times more. 9th round— knit 2 together, purl 6, knit 3, purl 6, knit 2 together ; repeat 5 times more. 10th round — knit I, purl 6, make I, knit i, make i, purl 6, knit I ; repeat 5 times more. 11th round — knit i, purl 6, knit 5, purl 6, knit I ; repeat 5 times more. 12th round — knit 2 together, purl 5, make I, knit 5, make i, purl 5, knit 2 together ; repeat J times more. 13th round — knit i, purl 5, knit 7, purl 5, knit I ; repeat 5 times more. 15th round — knit 2 together, purl 4, knit 9, purl 4, knit 2 together ; repeat 5 times more. 16th round — knit i, purl 4, make I, knit 9, make i, purl 4, knit i ; repeat 5 times more. 17th round — knit I, purl 4, knit 4, slip i, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch, knit 4, purl 4, knit i ; repeat 5 limes more. 18th round — knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 9, purl 3, knit 2 together ; repeat 5 times more. 19th round — knit i, purl 3, knit 3, slip I, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch, knit 3, purl 3, knit i ; repeat 5 times more. 20th round — knit I, purl 3, knit 7, purl 3, knit i ; repeat 5 times more. 21st round — knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, slip I, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch, knit 2, purl 2, knif 2 together ; repeat 5 times more. 22nd round -knit i, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit i ; repeat s times more. 23rd round — knit i, purl 2, knit I, slip i, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch, knit i, purl 2, knit i ; repeat 5 times more. 24th round — knit 2 together, purl i, knit 3, purl I, knit 2 together; repeat 5 times more. 25th round — knit 2 together, slip i, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch, knit 2 together ; repeat 5 times more. 26th round — knit 6 on each needle. 27th round— slip i, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased stitch ; repeat 5 times more. Pick up the 6 stitches on the needles with a sewing needle and the end of the cotton ; fasten off securely on the wrong side. This completes 1 hexagon. Directions will now be given for making half hexagons which are used along the edges of the quilt or sofa blanket in the manner shown in the engraving. The number of pieces required will entirely depend upon the size of the coverlid required. The pieces are to be joined together by over-sewing them on the wrong side along the edges. It is a good plan to join the pieces as soon as finished, or at all events as often as a few are ready, as it helps to decide how many must be made, and prevents the pieces from being soiled or lost. Half hexagon. To be worked on 2 needles instead of 4. Cast on 54 stitches. 1st row — purl. 2nd row — purl. 3rd and 4th rows — knit. 5th row — purl. 6th row — knit 2 together, purl 7, make i, purl 7, knit 2 together ; repeat twice more. 7th row — purl I, knit 7, purl i, knit 7, purl I ; repeat twice more. 8th row — knit I, purl 7, make i, knit i, make i, purl 7, knit I ; repeat twice more. 9th row — purl 2 together, knit 6, purl 3, knit 6, purl 2 together ; repeat twice more. 10th row — knit i, purl 6, make I, knit 3, make I, purl 6, knit I ; repeat twice more. 11th row — purl i, knit 6, purl 5, knit 6, purl i ; repeat twice more. 12th row — knit 2 together, purl 5, make i, knit 5, make i, purl 5, knit 2 together; repeat twice more. 13th row — purl i, knit 5, make 1, knit 7, make i, knit 5, purl I ; repeat twice more. 14th row — knit I, purl 5, make i, knit 7, make i, purl 5, knit i ; repeat twice more. 15th row — purl 2 together, knit 4, purl 9, knit 4, purl 2 to- gether; repeat twice more. 16th row — knit i, purl 4, make I, knit 9, make i, purl 4, knit i ; repeat twice more. 17th row — purl i, icnit 4, purl 4, slip i, purl 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased one, purl 4, knit 4, purl i ; repeat twice more. 18th row — knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 9, purl 3, knit 2 together ; repeat twice more. 19th row — purl i, knit 3, purl 3, slip i, purl 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased one, purl 3, knit 3, purl I ; repeat twice more. 20th row — knit i, purl 3, knit 7, purl 3, knit I ; repeat twice more. 2l8t row — purl 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, slip I, purl 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased one, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2 together ; repeat twice rnore. 22nd rpiy ■"-^'^ •^^^^trtj^^ ~, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. I —knit I, purl 2, knit ;, purl 2, knit I ; repeat twice more. 23rd row— purl I, knit 2, purl I, slip i, purl 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased one, purl i, knit 2, purl i ; repeat twice more. 24tli row— knit 2 together, purl i, knit 3, purl I, knit 2 to- gether ; repeat twice more. 25tli row— purl 2 together, slip I, purl 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased one, purl 2 together ; repeat twice more. 26tli row— knit 9. 27tli row — slip I, purl 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the decreased one ; repeat twice more. This completes half of hexagon. Fasten off the end as directed before with sewing needle. LADIES' CAPUCHIN HOOD, For Evening V7ear. Ivory or wooden pins,No. 9, 2 ozs. white Andalusian wool, and2 balls of blue pompadour wool. Cast on 382 stitches with blue, this gives 14 stitches for every pattern and 4 over, therefore the 2 first and the 2 last are always to be plain knitting. 1st row — plain knitting. 2nd row — * knit I, wool forward, knit 2 toge- ther, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4, wool forward, knit I ; repeat from *. 3rd row — this and every alternate row is to be purled until the border is finished. 4th row — like the 2nd. 6tli row — knit i, wool forward, knit 2 together, wool for- ward, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 2 together, slip I, knit i, pass the slipped i over, knit 4, wool forward, knit i ; repeat. 8th WW — like 6th. 10th. row— like 2nd. 12th. row — knit i, wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped i over, wool forward, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped i over, wool forward, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped i over, wool forward, knit i ; repeat. 14th. row — like the 12th. 15th. row — cast off the first 56 stitches, purl the rest, cast off the last 56, 16th row — the remainder of the hood is plain knitting. These scallops which are cast off (4 on each side) must afterwards be sewn up the sides ; join the white wool. You must now begin to decrease. The best plan is to tie a piece of red wool at the centre scallop, and also at the 6th from each side, this divides it into 3 parts. When you come to the 6th scallop knit 2 together in the middle of it, do the same with the centre, and also with the 6th scallop from the end. 17tli row — knit 2 to- gether, decrease at the 6th scallop by knitting the middle stitch and the stitch before it together ; always decrease in this way in order to make the lines regular; knit the last 2 stitches together. ISth. row — decrease 3 times as in the preceding row, not at the begin- ning or end. 19t]i row — like the i8th. Repeat these 3 rows twice. 26th row — decrease between the 3rd and 4th scallops, at the centre, and between the 3rd and 4th scallops from the end, knit the first 2 and the last 2 together. Do the 17th, iSth, and 19th again. 30th row — hke the 26th. 31st row — decrease in the middle of the 4th scallop, and the 4th also from the end ; never forget to decrease in the centre scallop of every row. 32nd row — like the 26th. 33rd row — like the 31st. 84th row — decrease at the beginning, at the 6th, centre, 6th from the end, and the last 2 stitches. 35th row — decrease at the 3rd, 8th, centre, the same the other end. 37th row — like the 26th. Go back to the 17th row, then decrease at the 3rd scallop, when you have 130 stitches only. The cape part is finished. Now knit 2 together, wool forward twice, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped I over. Do a plain row. Then * knit 7, increase, repeat from *. You ought now to have 148 stitches, but a few extra will not signify. This finishes the curtain. Knit the ist row of hood plain, then knit to within 60 stitches of the end, turn, and * knit 2, increase, repeat from * to within 60 of the end. You do not in- crease any more after this ; turn back, and when you get to within 60 of the end, knit off 2 stitches (the 60th and 59th), and turn. Do this every time until all the stitches are knitted off. Knit a plain row, then knit the 2 first and the 2 last together. Repeat until you have reduced to i stitch. Cast off. Pick up the side stitches to form a border for the face. Knit I plain row, first and last, with white wool, knit 2, knit 2 together, wool over the needle, repeat till the end. This makes small holes, into which white elastic must afterwards be run. Join the blue wool, increase 1 2 times at the peak in 16 rows, doing a plain row between each increase, then loop knitting to make a fluffy border. Sew up the side edging to the cape part, and run blue ribbon round the neck; finish off the peak with a blue bow, for which il yards of ribbon will be required, and i^ yards for the neck ; sew the ends of the elastic down to where the ribbon comes to. You must be careful in knitting the cape not to make it longer than the 4 scallops which were cast off, as the corners must have the edging put on rather full, or it will not lie flat. This is a nice fit and very becoming. TO KNIT A PATCH INTO A STOCKING. When the knee of a child's stocking be- comes much darned it is almost useless, as it constantly breaks into holes again, and is always ugly. The fol- ts lowing plan of mending will be found very much superior to a dam, and is quite im- perceptible. Decide what sized patch will be required. Cut the stocking carefully across the top and bottom of the patch, taking care to cut along one row of the knitting. As the stocking is knit from the top it will be necessary, if ribbed, to begin at the top of the patch. Rip a row or two till all the stitches are clear of broken threads. Do not break off the threads at each side, but cut them in the centre. Pick up all the stitches along the top of the patch. Now clear the stitches at the bottom of the patch. You will have to cut the thread sometimes to get it free of the stitches if the stocking is ribbed, but always leave the threads at each side at least an inch long. Now cut out the patch, keeping it about i an inch narrower on each side than the piece you intend to knit in. Ravel out this i an inch on each side, leaving the ends as they are. Be sure to stop ravelling so tliat the sides of the patch will be quite even. Now knit backwards and forwards as many rows as you have taken away. Turn the stocking wrong side out and lay the stitches you have just knit beside the stitches you picked up at the bottom of the patch and knit them together, as in the heel of a stocking. Sew up each side of the patch, keeping the rows perfectly even, and keeping all the loose threads on the wrong side. Take a darning needle and run each thread to the right or left of the patch. If the stocking is knit plain, you can begin at the bottom of the patch and knit up, which is, of course, neater, as the join is out of sight, being near the top of the stocking. To strengthen the knee. — An excellent plan of strengthening the knee of a child's stocking is to have a second ball and knit every 2nd row double across the firont of the knee, breaking oft" the wool at the end of each double row. If you leave about an inch of wool at the beginning and end of each double row it \vill not require to be fastened, and will never appear on the right side. A diamond-shaped double-piece is all that is necessary, and does not make the stocking clumsy under the knee. It is formed thus : when you have knit to the knee, knit almost half round the stocking, counting from the seam stitch. Now knit a few stitches double. Break off wool. Finish row. Next row plain. In the next row, knit about 6 more double stitches, taking care to keep them exactly in the centre of the stocking. Proceed in this way till about half the width is double. Knit a few rows without increasing the number of double stitches, then decrease their number gradually till only a few remain, and cease the double-knitting altogether. The patch can easily be knit double, but need not be shaped. The Cbseve Knitting Cabd. — Rules and scale, for knitting stockiiigs and socks of any siiie. A perfect fit ensured. By A. E. K. Price Zd. eacb, post free. — Box 10 P.O., Ballymena, Ireland. New Book. — " The Jubilee Doll" (contains original knitting receiptifor dressing her). By C. Fe-yscks Mubrat. Price Ij. ; by post, Is. Irf. — Address to Lady James Murray, 1, Clarence Crescent, Windsor. 165 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, ■' J LADY'S VEST. This well-shaped vest is large women's size, with the neck high and short sleeves, and is knitted with cream white Crystal wool. This wool, lately introduced by the Providence Spinning Mills Com- pany, is a combination of silk and wool, and is particularly suited for ladies' or children's underclothing, being soft as well as light and pretty. The wool is made in several shades. The Company will send prices and patterns on applica- tion to the Mills, Thornton Road, Bradford. Mate- rials required for vest : — II half oz. skeins of cream white crystal wool, 2 bone or vulcanite needles with knobs at one end, No. 8, gauged by H. Walker's Bell Gauge, and 3 buttons. For the front part of the 1 vest — cast on 121 stitches. I 1st row — purl. 2nd row j — plain. 3rd row — *knit / 1 plain, make i by putting / the wool over the needle, / knit 2 'plain, slip I, knit 2 / together, draw the slipped / stitch over the 2 knitted / together, 2 plain, make r, / repeat from * 14 times / more, and end the row with I plain. 4th. row — purl. 5th. row — same as the 3rd row. Repeat from the 2nd row 3 times more, which will finish the border or edge at the bottom of the vest. 18th. row— knit 2 together at theb eginning and end of the row ; knit the rest of the row plain. Decrease every 6th row in the same way as the iSth row, till there are only 100 stitches left on the needle. The last decreasing row will only have one decreasing instead of two. The pattern is knitted thus : 19tli row — *knit 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * all across the row. 20th. row — plain. Repeat these last 2 rows, taking care not to alter the decreasings or increasings to interfere with the ribs of the pattern. Knit 151 rows from the beginning,and in 1 52nd row commence the gussets. Knit 32 stitches, make a stitch by lifting a loop in the row below and knitting it as a stitch, knit i, make r, knit 34, make i, knit 32. When knit- ting the 153rd and following pattern rows, take care to keep the ribs of the pattern in their proper place as well as possible. 154th. row — knit 32, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 34, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 32. 156th row — knit 32, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 34, make I, knit 5, make i, knit 32. 158tli row— knit 32, make 1, knit 7, make I, knit 34, make i,knit 7, make i, knit 32. 160th row — knit 32, make i, knit 9, make I, knit 34, make 1, knit 9, make I, knit 32. 162nd row — knit 32, make I, knit 11, make i,knit 34, make l, knit 11, make I, knit 32. 164th. row — knit 32, make i, knit 13, make I, knit 34, make i, knit 13, make i, knit 32. 166th row — knit 32, make i, knit 15, make I, knit 34, make I, knit ij, make i, knit 32. 168th row — knit 32, make i, knit 17, make i, knit 34, make l, knit 17, make l, knit 32. 170th row — knit 32, make I, knit 19, make I, knit 34, make i, knit 19, make i, knit 32. 172nd row — knit 32, make i, knit 21, make I, knit 34, make i,knit 21, make i, knit 32. 174th row — knit 32, make i, knit 23, make I, knit 34, make I, knit 23, make 1 , knit 32. 176th row— knit plain without increasing any stitches. Knit 5 more rows, continuing the pattern, and in the 182nd row commence the opening in the front. Knit 80 stitches plain, turn back, leaving the remaining 68 stitches en the needle. 183rd row — knit 12 stitches plain, like a garter for the edge, then continue knitting the pattern to the end of the row. Repeat the last 2 rows 5 times more. 194th row — in this row the decreasings of the gusset are commenced. Knit 32 stitches plain, knit 2 together, knit 21, knit 2 together, knit 23. 195th row — knit 12 stitches plain, then knit the pattern, keeping the ribs as well as possible in their proper place. 196th row — knit 32 stitches plain, knit 2 together, knit 19, knit 2 together, knit 23. 197th row — same as 195th row. 198th row — knit 32, knit 2 together, knit 17, knit 2 together, knit 23. 199th row — same as 195th row. 200th row — knit 32, knit 2 together, knit 15, knit 2 together, knit 23. 166 201st row — same as i9Sth row. 202nd row — knit 32, knit 2 to- gether, knit 1 3, knit 2 together, knit 32. 203rd row— same as 1 95th row. 204th row— knit 32, knit 2 together, knit 1 1, knit 2 together, knit 32. 205th row — in this row make a buttonhole, knit 4 stitches plain, knit 2 together, make 2 by putting the wool twice round the needle, knit 2 together, knit 4 plain, then continue the patteip as in fermer rows. 206th row — knit 32, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 17, purl i, knit 5. 207th row — same as 195th row. 208th row — knit 32, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 23. 209th row — same as 195th row. 210th row — knit 32, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 23. 211th row— same as 195th row. 212th row — knit 32, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 to- gether, knit 23. 213th row — same as 195th row. 214th row — knit 32, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 23. 215th row — same as 195th row. 216th row — knit 32, slip I, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together, knit 23. 217th row — same as i9Sth row. 218th row — ^knit plain. There should be 56 stitches on the needle, the gusset being finished. Repeat the last 2 rows, making a buttonhole in the 231st row and in the 257th row, the same way as directed in 105th row, till there are 81 rows knitted from the commencement of the front opening, in all 262 rows from the beginning of the vest. Cast off the 12 edge stitches and finish the row, continuing the pattern. 264th row — knit plain. 265th row — cast off 3 stitches and finish the row same as 263rd row. Repeat these last 2 rows till only 26 stitches remain. Then cast them off for shoulder. The right side of the front is now com- pleted. The second or left side of the front is knitted to correspond with the right side, omitting the buttonholes. Pick up 12 stitches at the back of the 12 garter or edge stitches, knitting them as they are picked up, and holding the wrong side of the knitting towards you, then knit the 68 stitches plain that were left on the needle when the opening of the front was commenced. This finishes the ist row of the left .=ide of the front. 2nd row — * knit 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * across the row, except the last 12 stitches, which are all knitted plain for the edge. 3rd row — plain. Repeat these last 2 rows 4 times more. 12th row — in this row the decreasings in the gusset are commenced. Knit 23 stitches plain, knit 2 together, knit 21, knit 2 together, knit 32. 13th and every alternate row — knit a pattern row, taking care to keep the ribs of the pattern in their pro- per place as well as possible, and ending each row with the 12 plain stitches for the edge. 14th row — knit 23 plain, knit 2 together, knit 19, knit 2 together, knit 32. 16th row^:nit 23, knit 2 together, knit 17, knit 2 together, knit 32. 18th row — knit 23, knit 2 to- gether, knit IS, knit 2 together, knit 32. 20th row— knit 23, knit 2 together, knit 13, knit 2 together, knit 32. 22nd row — knit 23, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 32. 24th row — knit 23, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 32. 26th row — knit 23, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 32. 28th row — knit 23, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 32. 30th row — knit 23, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 32. 32nd row — knit 23, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 32. 34th row — knit 23, slip i, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together, knit 32. 36th row — plain. 37th row — same as the 2nd row. Repeat these last 2 rows till there are 80 rows knitted from the 2nd row of the left side of the front. 82nd row — cast off the 12 edge stitches, and knit the rest of the row plain (44 stitches). 83rd row— knit a pattern row. 84th row — cast off 3 stitches, rest of the row knit plain. Repeat these last 2 rows till only 26 stitches remain. Cast them off for shoulder. For back of vest, cast on 121 stitches and knit the same as the front, omitting the gussets and opening, and also the cast off stitches to shape the neck. Knit in all 273 rows, and cast off. For sleeve : Cast on 81 stitches, and knit the same as the first 13 rows of the vest, but repeating the pattern 9 times instead of 14 times. 14th row — knit 2 together, rest of the row knit plain. Knit 40 rows in the pattern same as the body of the vest was knitted in, and cast off. For the sleeve gusset pick up 30 stitches from the side of the sleeve, and knit 40 rows in the same pattern as the sleeve was knitted in. After the 14th row cast off. Knit a second sleeve exactly the same ; sew the gussets into their place; and having first sewn the shoulders to the back piece of the vest, and sewn up the sides, sew the sleeves in. For the neck : Pick up 107 stitches, holding the right side of the vest next you, and knitting the stitches as they are picked up. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row — knit 6 stitches plain for the edge, * make a stitck by putting the wool over the needle, knit i, slip i,knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together, kniti, make i, knit I, repeat from * 1 5 times more, and end the row with 6 plain stitches. 3rd row — knit 6 plain for edge. Purl 95 stitches, knit 6 stitches plain. 4th row — knit the same as 2nd row. 5th row — same as 1st row. 6th row — same as 2nd row. 7th row— same as 3rd row. 8th row — same as 2nd row. 9th row — plain. 10th row — same as 3rd row. Cast off thus : * knit 2 together, and put THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. the loop just made back on left hand needle, repeat from * until all the stitches are cast off. Sew on the buttons, and work with a piece of the wool the vest was knitted with round the buttonholes like an eyelet hole, but not too close. A vest knitted from the above pattern, in white merino wool, was awarded a prize at the Bedale Knitting Competition on March l6th, 1887. In merino wool it works out a size smaller. WRAP SHAWL. Materials required: 30ZS. of Baldwin's merino wool for the middle and 3 ozs. of a darker shade for the border and fringe, 2 bone knit- ting pins, No. 7. Count 13 stitches to a pattern. Cast on 162 stitches, this includes 3 stitches at each end, which are always knitted plain, and are not mentioned again in the work. Always slip the 1st stitch. This is for the middle part, and must be done with the lightest shade. Knit i plain row, and then begin. The pattern : — 1st row — knit the back of the last stitch to make a n2w stitch, knit I, knit the back of this stitch also, to make another new stitch, purl or seam 2, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 5, seam 2, repeat. 2nd row — knit 2, seam 4, seam 2 together, seam i, knit 2, seam 3, repeat. 3rd row — knit i, bring forward, knit i, bring forward, kniti, seam 2, knit I, knit 2 together, knit 3, seam 2, repeat. 4th row-^knit 2, seam 2, seam 2 together, seam l, knit 2, seam 5, repeat. 5th row — knit 2, bring forward, knit I, bring forward, knit 2, seam 2, knit i, knit 2 together, knit i, seam 2, repeat. 6th row — knit 2, seam 2 together, seam I, knit 2, seam 7, repeat. 7th row — knit 3, bring forward, knit i, bring for- ward, knit 3, seam 2, knit 2 together, seam 2, repeat. 8th row — knit 2, seam i, knit 2, seam 6, seam 2 together, seam i, repeat. 9th. row — knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, seam 2, knit the back of the last stitch to make a new stitch, knit I, knit the back of this stitch also, to make another new stitch, seam 2, repeat. 10th row — knit 2, seam 3, knit 2, seam 4, seam 2 together, seam I, repeat. 11th row — knit i,knit 2 together, knit 3, seam 2, knit i, bring forward, knit I, bring forward, knit i, seam 2, repeat. 13th row — knit 2, seam 5, knit 2, seam 2, seam 2 together, seam i, repeat. 13th row — knit I, knit 2 together, knit i, seam 2, knit 2, bring forward, knit I, bring forward, knit 2, seam 2, repeat. 14th row — knit 2, seam 7, knit 2, seam 2 together, seam i, repeat. 15th row — knit 2 toge- ther, seam 2, knit 3, bring forward, knit i, bring forward, knit 3, seam 2, repeat. 16th row — knit 2, seam 6, seam 2 together, seam I, knit 2, seam i, repeat. Commence again at theist row. When you have done 12 patterns, the middle part will be long enough, then take the dark wool and knit 2 plain rows, increasing i stitch at the beginning of each row. Now begin again at the 1st row of the pattern, and repeat it twice more, that is, 32 rows. Remember to increase I stitch at the beginning of every row throughout the border (this is to form the corners), and you will be able by this time to understand the pattern 50 well that it will not be difficult to knit it close up to the ends of each row. When the 32 rows are done, seam the next row and cast off. There will be 215 stitches to cast off. For the other 3 sides pick up 162 stitches on each, knitting the border as before, beginning with the 2 plain rows of dark. Then sew the slanting parts of the border neatly together and fringe by putting 5 lengths of the fringe into every other stitch. PURSE. There is always a certain number of people in the world who con- sider that no modem form of purse is so portable and convenient in every way as the old-fashioned long shape, andcertainly they arefar brighter and more tasteful than ourportemon- naies. There are many ways of making them, either in crochet, netting, or knitting. The one given here is as pretty as any, and has the merit of being by no means a difficult pattern to work. Four skeins of knitting or purse silk are used, and no colour is prettier than a deep rich shade of blue. Gilt beads must be used at one end, and silver or steel at the other, so that a distinction is made between the gold and silver money. One bunch of each will be wanted, and steel needles No. 18. Blue of a certain shade is recommended, because both gold and silver beads look well on it. The beads are threaded first on the silk just exactly as if beaded cuffs are to be made. Knit a little piece of the pattern first with wool and any common beads, so as to be able to count the number of beads in each row, and thread the right number on the silk, alternately gold and silver, as required. If the worker does not understand knitting with beads, full directions will be found on page 12 of the first volume of the Fancy Work- Basket. Cast on 118, and knit a plain row. 2nd row — knit 4, i bead, * knit 5, i bead ; repeat from * 3 times more ; knit S3, * i bead, knit 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more ; i bead, knit 4 at the end. Every alternate row is knitted plain. 4th row — * knit 3, 3 beads, repeat from * four times more ; knit 58, * 3 beads, knit 3 ; repeat from * 4 times more. 6tli row — knit 2, 5 beads, *knit i, 5 beads ; repeat from * 3 times more, knit 56, * 5 beads, knit l ; repeat from * 4 times more, knitting 2 at the end of the row. The Sth, loth and I2th rows are like the 2nd, 4th and 5th respectively. Then begin again at the 6th row. The pattern consists of a series of diamonds 5 in a row. When about 9 inches are worked, cast off; sew up the sides, leaving about one third unsewn in the middle. Gather up one end closely and finish it off with a handsome tassel. Slip on two rings to close the purse with before sewing up the other end, which may be either gathered up to match the other or sewn up straight and finished off with a gilt or silver drop fringe. If the number of stitches given is not enough or too much, they are easily altered, but the number of stitches to be knitted plain in the part where there are no beads will of course be at variance with the di- rections given here. This will be of no consequence, so long as the right number of stitches is left at the end of each row for the beads. This pattern is also adapted for beaded cufis, when probably tliree rows of diamonds will make the border wide enough. HOW TO MAKE • Ladies' and Children's By Mrs. LEACH. 140 illustrations of bow to ciit out, make up and trim e.-erj description of UndergaraocDt lor | Ladies and Childr^ n of all ages. I Price id. Of all News.igent-, or • post f:e^, l^id. Price '2d. HOW TO MAKE BOYS' SUITS By Jlrs. LEACH. Illustrating 160 Tariius Suits for all Ages, with pliin de-criptions for L-uttinrj out and making up. Boys' and Gei.tlemen's Uuder- tloth'ng, &L\ Of all Xews- age:iTs, ir post free. '2jA. 16 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. GLOVE FOR A CHILD OF THREE. It is well known that home - made gloves wear much better than any we can buy, and though the first glove may prove a little troublesome, all future attempts will become very simple, and in durability and fit will amply repay for the trifling trouble of the first. These directions are suitable for any fine wool, such as Queen's or Anda- lusian, or for silk. We can also recommend a new wool which looks quite as pretty as silk, and is, of course, less expensive. It is Crystal wool, and can be obtained from the Providence Mills Spinning Company, Thorn- ton Road, Bradford, price lod. per oz. i oz. of wool and 4 steel needles, No. 17, will be required. Cast on 52 stitches on 3 needles, join, and knit 2 and purl 2 alternately for 32 rounds. The remainder of the glove may be knit plain or in any small pattern, such as the following : — * knit 2 rounds. 3rd round — knit I and purl i alternately ; repeat from *, taking care that the knitted and purled stitches are always in perpendicular rows. The pattern must, of course, be continued without intermission throughout the glove, though no further mention will be made of it. Knit 8 rounds, counting from the ribbing at the wrist. For thumb of left hand, it is advisable to mark the first stitch of the round with a white thread ; knit 2, make a stitch by knitting the back half of the last stitch before slipping it off' the needle, knit 2, make a stitch, knit the remainder of the round. Knit the next 2 rounds plain. 4tli round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 4, make a stitch, finish the round. 2 plain rounds. 7th round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 6, make a stitch, finish the round. 2 plain rounds. 10th round — knit 2, make a stitch, knit 8, make a stitch, finish the round. 2 plain rounds. ISth. round — knit 2, make i, knit to, make i, finish the round. 2 plain rounds. 16th round — knit 2, make i, knit 12, make i, finish the round. 2 plain rounds. 19th. round — knit 2, make I, knit 14, make i, finish the round. 2 plain rounds. 22nd round — knit 2, make i, knit 16, make I, finish the round. 2 plain rounds. 25th round — knit 2, make i, knit 18, make i, finish the round. Knit 2, put the 18 thumb stitches on a thread, cast on 4 stitches, knit to end of round. Next round plain. Next round knit 2, form the gusset for the thumb by slipping i stitch, knit l, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 to- gether, finish round. Next round plain. Next round knit i, slip a stitch, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 to- gether, finish round. Knit 9 plain rounds. First finger: you should now have 52 stitches on your needles ; knit 12, put the next 38 stitches on a thread, leaving the last 2 stitches of the row for the finger, cast on 4 stitches ; you will now have 18 stitches for the finger, divide them on 3 needles, and knit round and round for 30 rounds. For top of finger, discontinue the pattern, knit i, knit 2 together. 2nd round — knit 2 together till you have only 6 stitches on your needles, break off the wool, leaving a few inches, take a wool needle and run it through the 6 stitches, draw them close together, and fasten off on the wrong side. Second finger : lift 4 stitches where the 4 were cast on for the first finger, take 6 stitches off the thread at the back of the hand, cast on 4, take 6 off the thread on the front of the hand; you should have 20 stitches, divide them on 3 needles, and knit round and round for 36 rounds, knit the top the same as in the first finger. Third finger: lift 4 stitches where 4 were cast on for the second finger, take 6 off" the thread at the back of the glove, cast on 4, take 6 stitches off the thread at the front of the glove, knit 30 rounds, knit the top same as before. Fourth finger: take the 14 stitches remaining on the thread, lift 4 along the 3rd finger, knit 24 rounds, and knit top as before. For thumb: take the 18 stitches on the thread and lift 6 along the gusset. In every 2nd round, narrow at the beginning and end of these 6 stitches till they are all gone, and only 18 remain on the needles, knit 18 rounds, and knit a top like those on the fingers. The right hand glove is knitted exactly the same as the left till you come to 168 the beginning of the first finger; commence it by knitting 7 stitches, put the next 38 stitches on a thread, cast on 4, leaving the last 7 stitches of the row for the finger ; you will now have 18 stitches, finish the finger as in the left glove. Knit the remaining fingers and thumb the same as before. Gloves a size larger may be made by using No. 16 needles. Before wearing cover the gloves with a very damp white cloth, and iron them. This softens them greatly, and makes the knitting look more even. JERSEY CAP FOR CHILD OF 5 TO 9 YEARS. This is a very simple and quickly made pattern, and looks ex- ceedingly well. Use bone or wooden pins. No. 9, and 2 ozs. of cardinal (single) Berlin wool. Cast on 108 stitches. Knit a row, purl a row until your work measures about 5 inches, then double it, and knit the stitches that were first cast on with the stitches on the needle, so as to form the hem. Still keep knitting a row and purl- ing a row until you have done 10 inches in all, then cast off, and sew up the top and back very neatly, gathering the top in a little. Make a cord with chain, leaving two ends on which the two balls are tied. Work a small crewel flower in the front. To make wool balls, you must get two pieces of cardboard a little larger than a penny, and cut a hole in the centre, then work the wool through and through until the centre hole is filled up ; then cut round the edges, and tie wool tight round the centre between the cards ; the cards can then be pulled out. GOOD PATTERN FOR THE BACK OF KNITTED GLOVES. Count off a space at the back of the glove where you wish your pattern to be, and mark it, making it divisible by 5. Say that the ground work of your glove is brown, have a small ball of yellow, and another small ball of black. All through these directions they are only for just the marked off space, which you can divide by 5. 1st round — (work, of course, as usual, till you come to the marked stitch in every case), have the yellow ball come up through the inside of your glove, knit i yellow stitch, 4 brown, * I yellow, 4 brown, and repeat from * until you come to the second marked stitch ; finish your round as usual. 2nd round — * 2 yellow, 3 brown ; repeat from * to the marked stitch ; finish as usual. 3rd round—* 3 yellow, 2 brown, and repeat from * to the mark. 4th round — * 4 yellow, i brown ; repeat from * as before. 5th round — knit I brown round. 6th round — take up the black ball and drop the yellow, but do hot break it off", * knit i black stitch, 4 brown, and repeat from * to the mark as before. 7th round—* 2 black, 3 brown ; repeat from * to the mark as before. 8th round — * 3 black, 2 brown, and repeat from ■*■ to the mark. 9th round — * 4 black, i brown, and repeat from * to the mark; knit i brown round. Now com- mence with the 1st round again, using, of course, the yellow wool. About 25 or 30 stitches at the back of each glove make a pretty set of patterns, and you should begin at just above the wrist, and continue till you are past the knuckles. A pair of gloves knitted in fingering, and having this pattern at the back, look well and last a long time for a business man. ' Now Ready, price 2d. WASHING AND LAUNDRY CHECK-BOOK By Mrs. LEACH.— Containing How to Wash, Starch and Iron, with valuable Recipes for Cleaning, Dyeing, &c., and printed Laundry Checks for six months. Of all Newsvendors. Price 2d., or post free, three stamps, from R, S. Cartwbight, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, E,C. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. \ Crochet. LADIES' STORM OR TRAVELLING HAT. Materials required : a Penelope steel crochet needle, No. oo, and j skeins of Saxony wool, navy blue or any other colour preferred. This hat is worked with the wool double, and it is necessary to use a steel needle when working the crown, bone not being strong enough to raise the back loops. Work- ing through the back loops as directed makes the crown' fluted. If the chain loops only are worked into the crown will be quite flat. The flat crown is easier to work. Work 3 chain stitches with the wool double, work a single stitch into the ist of the 3 chain stitches, so as to form a ring. 1st round— work 8 double stitches into the ring just made, join the round by working a single stitch into the 1st stitch of the 1st round. 2nd round — work 2 double stitches into each stitch of last round, working through the back chain loops. There are now 16 stitches in the round. 3rd round — put in a piece of coloured wool to mark where the rounds commence, work 2 double stitches on the 1st double stitch of last round, working through the front and back chain loops, * work a double stitch on the next stitch of last round working through the back chain loop and the loop at the back that lies just below the chain loop of the stitch, work 2 double stitches on next stitch of last round, working through the front and back chain loops ; repeat from * 6 times more. Work a double stitch on next stitch of last round, working through the back chain loop and the loop at the back just below it, as before. There should be 24 double stitches in this round. The crown is composed of 8 sections, or patterns, and it is well to count the stitches, as a mis- take in the number would break the line of the pattern and mar the effect. Throughout the pattern that forms the crown, when the 2 double stitches are worked into the same stitch, they are worked through the front and back chain loops. These 2 stitches, form the point of the section, and they should always come on the top of the 1st of the 2 double stitches of the preceding round. All the other double stitches are worked through the back chain loops and the loops just below the chain at the back. 4th round — 2 double stitches on the ist double stitch of last round, working through the front and back chain loops as directed, * work a double stitch on the next stitch of last round, work a double stitch on the next stitch of last round, work 2 double stitches on the next stitch of last round; repeat from * 6 times more, double on next stitch of last round, double on next stitch of last round. There are 32 stitches in this round. 5th round — 2 double on the Ist stitch ot last round, * 3 double on the next 3 stitches of last round, 2 double on next stitch of last round; repeat from * 6 times more, 3 double in next 3 stitches of last round. 6th round — 2 double on ist double of last round, * 4 double on next 4 stitches of last round, 2 double on next stitch of last round; repeat from * 6 times more, 4 double on next 4 stitches of last round. 7th round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 5 double on next 5 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 5 double on next 5 stitches. 8th round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 6 double on next 6 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 6 double on next 6 stitches. 9th round — 2 double on 1st stitch of last round, * 7 double on next 7 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 7 double on next 7 stitches. lOth round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 8 double on next 8 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 8 double on next 8 stitches, nth round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, *9 double on next 9 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 9 double on next 9 stitches. 12th round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 10 double on next 10 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 10 double on next 10 stitches. 13th round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 11 double on next 11 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 11 double on next 1 1 stitches. 14th round — 2 double on 1st stitch of last round, * 12 double on next 12 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 12 double on next 12 stitches. 15th round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 13 double on next 13 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 13 double on next 13 stitches. 1 6th round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 14 double on next 14 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 14 double on next 14 stitches. 17th round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 1 5 double on next 1 5 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 15 double on next 15 stitches. i8th round — 2 double on ist stitch of last round, * 16 double on next 16 stitches, 2 double on next stitch; repeat from * 6 times more, 16 double on next 16 stitches. This finishes the crown, when there will be 144 stitches in the round. Work round and round in double crochet without any increase for 14 rounds, working through the back chain loops only. When 4 or J of these rounds are worked, measure the round; 22^- or 23 inches 15 the usual size for a hat. Some stitches will be raised farther on in the pattern, which must be allowed for in the measurement here, as they will increase the size about half an inch. If the round measures more than the size required, the work must either be done a little tighter, or a needle a degree finer must be used. If the round is less than the required size, use a coarser needle, or work more loosely. A bone needle can be used for this part of the hat if it is necessary to alter the size. Now for the front : put in a piece of coloured wool to mark the beginning of the row. Work a part round of 35 stitches. Cut off the wool, leaving an end of about 2 inches. Work another part round, beginning 9 stitches to the right of the last 35 stitches worked, and work 9 stitches beyond the 35 stitches of last row; the 9 stitches at end are worked down into the stitches of the previous row, and in working them, work over the short end of the wool cut when last row was finished. Cut off the wool as before. Work another part round, beginning 9 stitches to the right of the 53 stitches last worked, and working 9 stitches beyond at the left end of the last rotv, working over the ends of the wool at each side of the row as previously directed. All the ends of the wool at these part rounds should be worked in in the same way. It is the neatest way to fasten them off. There are 71 stitches in the last row, or part round. Count the number of stitches at back between the last and first stitches of the row just worked. Put a piece of coloured wool into the centre of these stitches to mark the middle of the back. The broken rounds or rows are not counted as rounds, so the next is the 32nd round — double crochet all round, commencing 7 stitches to the right of the back centre stitch, and working 3 double crochet stitches into the back centre stitch. 33rd, 34th and 35th rounds — work in double crochet. Now for the back : work a part round, beginning 8 stitches to the right of the back centre stitch, and working 3 double crochet stitches into the centre stitch, also working 8 stitches beyond the centre stitch. Cut off the wool. Work another part round, beginning 9 stitches to the right of the 1st stitch of last row, and working 9 stitches beyond the last stitch of last row. Cut off the wool. Work another part round, beginning 9 stitches to the right of the 1st stitch of last row, and working 9 stitches beyond the last stitch of last row. Without breaking off the wool, work the 36th, 37th, 38th, 39th and 40th rounds in double crochet. 41st round — double crochet, working 3 stitches into the centre stitch at back. 42nd, 43rd and 44th rounds — work in double crochet. Fasten off the wool. For the band, which is worked in looped crochet, with the single wool make a chain of 20 stitches, work 19 stitches of double crochet into this chain, make i chain stitch, turn. 2nd row — * put the needle into the last double stitch, taking it through the 2 chain loops of the stitch, throw the wool over the needle and round the ist finger of the left hand 4 times, draw these 4 threads through the chain loops on the needle, draw the single wool through the 4 threads and the stitch on the needle, this is called a looped stitch, * work a double crochet stiich on the next stitch of last row, working it through the 2 chain loops of the stitch, work a looped stitch on next stitch of last row, work- ing as before through the 2 chain stitches; repeat from * to end of row, work i chain stitch, turn. 3rd row — throw the wool over the needle, and draw it through the last stitch of last row, working through the 2 chain loops, draw the wool through the 3 loops on the needle; repeat this stitch on every stitch of last chain, work I chain, turn. 4th row — work a double stitch in last stitch of last row, * work a looped stitch on the next stitch of last row, work a double stitch on next stitch of last row; repeat firom * to end of row, work i chain, turn. 5th row — same as 3rd row. Observ'e that the 2nd rov/ begins and ends with a looped stitch, and the 4th row begins and ends with a double stitch. Repeat from the begfin- ning of the 2nd row until sufficient is worked to go round the hat. In the last pattern worked omit the 5th row. Join the band by crocheting the 2 ends together with single crochet on the flat side, or sewing will do. The band is put on to the hat with single crochet, working through the edge of the band and the chain stitches of the last round of the hat, taking care to work a single stitch into each stitch of the hat. Tack the upper edge of the band to the hat, keeping it quite flat. A small piece of coloured wool run in the centre of the front on the wrong side of the hat ser\-es as a mark when putting it on. If a smaller hat is wanted than 169 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. the pattern given, a fewer Rumber of rows should be worked in the crown, and at the sides. The last round of the crown should measure half an inch less than the size the hat is required to be when finished, the looped band made narrower in proportion. SLUMBER ROLL. Handsome and easy to make, and not very expensive. Materials : double Berlin wool, crochet hook (not tricoter), about No. 5, one piece calico, l8J inches by 22 inches in length, a piece of silk or soft material the same size as the calico, 2i yards cord or ribbon to tie to the chair, and stuffing for the pillow, either flocks, feathers, or if obtainable the prepared pine or hops give a tragrant and pleasant odour very acceptable to headache martyrs. Failing the pine or hops, good flocks are the best, being cooler and cheaper than feathers. Make your pillow first, sewing the two sides together, with the exception of a small opening about 4 or 5 inches in the middle, then gather up the two ends, each end like a bolster,stuff your pillow through the opening, and then sew that up. Then cover neatly with the coloured material which should match the wool. For the wool cover — make a chain rather loosely and veiy evenly the full lengh of your roll, measuring fiom the centre of the gather- ing at one end to the centre of the gathering at the other end. 1st row — I double crochet in every loop. 2nd row — i chain to turn, i double crochet in the ist stitch, taking up both the loops, wool over needle, i treble very loosely made into the 2nd stitch of the foundation chain, miss the loop at the back of the treble you have just made, * i double through both loops of the next double crochet in the previous row, miss f loop of the foundation chain, counting from the last treble of course, i treble in the next loop of the foundas tion chain, miss the double crochet m the previous row, which lief at the back of the treble just made ; repeat from * to the end o. row. The treble is made thus for this work, and is a long treble Long treble — wool over the needle, put needle into a loop, * draw the wool through, this gives 3 loops on the needle, draw the wool through I loop, then through 2, then through 2 more, and do it all evenly and rather loosely ; wool over the needle, put the needle into the next loop requiring a treble, and repeat from *. 3rd row — double crochet into every stitch as follows : when working over a double crochet, take up \h& front loop only, in working over the treble, take up both loops. 4th row — always i chain to turn every row, i treble into the loop lying across the stitch in the previous row but one, * I double crochet through both loops of the next treble, i treble into the loop lying across the next stitch in the previous row but one, and repeat from * to the end of the row. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until your work will go round the pillow rather snugly at first, as it stretches a little after being worn. Sew the sides together in- visibly, slip your pillow into it, then gather the ends, cut your ribbon or cord in half, then make a small bow or loop at one end of each piece, sew to the end of your bolster right down to the calico lining to make it firm. This completes it, unless you add a tassel at each end, and you can now tie it to the chair for the mutual benefit of yourself, your mother or your better-half. These are beautiful for invalids. HANDSOME ANTIMACASSAR. A very handsome antimacassar can be made of a stripe of wool crochet the same pattern as the slumber roll, alternated with a stripe of the new perforated felt worked in cross stitch. Crochet a border to go all round, or add fringe. Another, very fine. Stripes of perforated felt worked in cross stitch, and velvet; finish the ei'.ds with furniture lace, crochet wool lace, or sew on trimming balls to the ends, under one or two rows of gimp trimming. These antis wear very well indeed, 170 BABY DOLL'S HOOD IN SHELL STITCH. Materials required : I oz. of Berlin wool, any colour pre- ferred, and a bone hook. Make a chain of 34. This will fit a doll 8 inches round the face. Shell stitch is fully described in No. I. Work shells as there directed on the foundation chain; you should have 15 shells in the row. Work 2 more plain rows, and in the last shell of each row you will have only sloops. 4th row^ — miss 5 shells, fasten on in the 6th, make i chain; now put hook in centre // 'KJ^^SS^^ — hole of 5 th shell and draw it / ^52?%^"3sis:»"**a»' .^ ^jjj^ jj^g other. Work a shell over the 6th shell in the usual way, work 3 more shells over next 3; in the next shell, catch the Iith shell of the 3rd row through the centre hole ; fasten off. S^^ row — same, catching in the 4th and 1 2th shells at the beginning and end of the row. 6th row — same, catching in the 3rd and 13th. 7th row — same, catching in the 2nd and 14th. 8th row — same, catching in ist and 15th. For the curtain, fasten on the right hand side of neck and work shells across, missing the centre one of hood to draw it in a little at the neck. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row — increase in the centre by making 2 shells as follows : pick up the 5 loops as usual and draw through next shell, pick up 3 loops as usual, pick up the 4th loop in centre of shell that held the 5th loop of last shell, pick up 5th loop in top strand of next shell, draw through ; always increase in this way. Next row — increase as before. This completes the curtain. Do not break off wool, but commence border round the face ; 5 treble into a stitch, i double in next; repeat this all round face and curtain, taking care to increase at corners. This completes the crochet part. Pleat a little narrow lace round face. Take li yards of narrow ribbon and divide into 3, thread 2 pieces through curtain to form strings, and tie in a bow at back. Divide the 3rd piece into 2, thread it round the face to tie in a bow at top, securing it at the corners. This ccfmpletes the hood. BASSINETTE OR PERAMBULATOR COVER. Materials : — white Berlin wool or fingering of the best quality, and No. 9 or 10 long bone needles with knobs at the ends. Cast on 144 stitches; this will make the centre about 22 inches wide, exclusive of the border, and for every additional 2 inches, you must cast on about 12 extra stitches. The number of stitches roust divide by 6. The pattern is very simple. 1st row — * 3 plain, 3 purl, and repeat from * to the end of row. 2nd row— like the 1st row. 3rd row — like the ist row. 4t]i row — * 3 purl, 3 plain, and repeat from *. 5th and 6th. rows — like the 4th ; repeat from the 1st row until the centre of your couvrette is long enough. Cast off. The border is crochet. 1st round — 1 treble into a loop, * i chain, miss a space equal to i chain, i treble in the next loop; do not have these holes full at all, but flat ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 2nd round — i double crochet into the ist hole, miss I hole, 7 long treble made by winding wool twice round the hook in . the next hole— that is the next hole but one to the one you put your double crochet into ; miss i hole, I double crochet into the next hole, * miss I hole, 7 long or double treble in the next hole, miss i hole, I double crochet in the next hole ; repeat from * to the end of the round. 3rd round— i double crochet in the 4th treble of the ist scallop, 7 treble (long) in the ist double crochet, * I double crochet into the 4th treble of the next scallop, 7 long treble into the next double crochet, and repeat from * to the end of the round. 4th. and succeeding rounds like the third till the border is as deep as you wish it to be. Last round — i single stitch in the ist stitch through both loops of the stitch, * 3 chain, I single through the next stitch, and repeat from * to the end of the round. To those who do not mind a little more expense, another round can be added as follows : After the ist round, instead of the 2nd round as given, work as below described — i long double treble made by winding the wool round the needle 3 times, and drawing through 2 loops at a time until all are worked off into the ist treble in the previous round, * i chain, miss i loop, i long double treble into the next treble in the previous round ; repeat from * to the end of the round. Then proceed with the 2nd round above. In making this long double treble, draw it out as long as convenient, as the purpose is to make it long enough to run ribbon through. Pmk or blue satin ribbon is pretty, with a bow at two of the corners, one at the left I side of the top? ^nd the right hand end of the bottom. THE FANCY yiTORK-BASKET, LACE FOR DRESSES, &c. Materials required: Coats' crochet cotton, No. 24, and steel hook 4i. 1st row — make 30 chain, turn, make i treble into the 4th chain, i treble in the next, this forms 3 treble for the heading of the lace, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into the 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into the 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into the 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into the 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, double cro- chet into the 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, then make 7 treble into 7 chain, turn with I chain. * 2nd row — double crochet on each of 7 treble of previous row, 5 chain, double crochet on to next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, and double crochet on each of the 3 treble which form the heading of the lace, 3 chain, turn. 3rd row — 2 treble on 2 double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, miss 2 stitches, make i treble into double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into the centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble on the double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, miss 2, work 7 treble into next 7 stitches, 10 chain, turn. 4th row— i treble into 5th chain, make 5 more treble into 5 next stitches, 2 chain, double crochet on top of centre one of 7 treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 treble, i chain, turn. 5th row — 2 double on 2 treble of theheading, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, 7 double crochet on 7 treble of previous row; now break off the cotton, leaving a short length to fasten off with further on. 6th row — make 7 chain; now commence where you left off and work 7 treble into the 7 double crochet of last row, 2 chain, double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treb'e on next double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on next double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 double for the heading, 3 chain. 7th row — turn, 2 treble on 2 treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, i treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double cro- chet, 2 chain, miss 2, work 7 treble into next 7 stitches, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, miss 2, treble on treble, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into next, 2 chain, miss 2, treble into next; now work 6 more treble down next 6 on the chain, i chain, turn. 8th row — 7 double crochet on the 7 treble of last row, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, 7 double crochet on 7 treble of last row, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, 3 double crochet on 3 treble for the heading, 3 chain, turn. 9th row — 2 treble on 2 double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet in centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double crochet of last row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double crochet; now make 10 chain, turn. loth row — i treble into the 4th chain, 5 treble into the 5 next chain, 2 chain, double into centre of 7 treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, miss 2; now 7 treble into the next 7 stitches, 2 chain, double crochet into the centre of 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble into next 7 stitches, 2 chain, double crochet on double cro- chet, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 treble to form heading, i chain, turn, nth row — 2 double crochet on 2 treble, 5 chain, 7 double crochet on 7 treble of previous row, 5 chain, 7 double crochet on 7 treble of previous row, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, 7 double crochet on next 7 treble, 3 chain, turn. 12th row — 6 treble into 6 double crochet of last row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double crochet of previous row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double crochet of previous row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 double crochet of previous row, 3 chain, turn. 13th row — 2 treble into the 2 treble of heading, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into the centre of 7 treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble into next 7 stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into the centre of 7 treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble into next 7 stitches, I chain, turn. 14th row^7 double crochet on 7 treble, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, 7 double crochet on 7 treble of last row, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, 3 double on 3 treble to form heading, 3 chain, turn. 1 5th row — 2 treble into 2 treble, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble on 7 double crochet of last row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double crochet of last row; break off the cotton. i6th row — comm.ence at the end the cotton was broken off at, miss the first 6 treble, work i treble in the 7th treble, now work 6 treble into the next 6 stitches, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet itito centre stitch of 7 treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, 3 treble onJ3 treble, i chain, turn. 17th row — double crochet on 2 treble of heading, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, 7 double on 7 treble of previous row, 3 chain, turn. i8th row, 6 treble on 6 double crochet of last row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 double crochet of last row, 3 chain, turn. 19th row — 2 treble into 2 treble of heading, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble into next 7 stitches, I chain, turn, and repeat from * at the 2nd row of pattern for any desired length. INSERTION TO MATCH. Materials required : Coats' crochet cotton No. 24, steel hook, 44. Make 38 chain, turn, ist row— l treble into 4th chain, I treble into next 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into 3rd chain, 2 chain, miss 2, treble into 3rd chain, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into 3rd chain, 2 chain, miss 2, treble into 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, treble into 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into 3rd, 2 chain, miss ;, treble into 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into 3rd, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble into the 3 next stitches, i chain, turn. 2nd row— work 3 double crochet on 3 treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, 3 double crochet on 3 treble of previous row, 3 chain, turn. 3rd row — 2 treble into treble of previous row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 171 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet in centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet in centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet in centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble on double crochet of previous row, 3 chain, turn. 4th row — 2 treble into 2 treble of last row, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble on treble of previous row, I chain, turn. 5th row — 3 double on 3 treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, 3 double crochet on 3 last treble of the previous row, 3 chain, turn. 6th row — 2 treble on 2 double crochet of previous row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 double crochet of last row, 3 chain, turn. 7th row — 2 treble on 2 treble of previous row, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble in next 7 stitches, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 treble, i chain, turn. 8th row — 3 double on 3 treble of previous row, 5 chain, double crochet on next treble, 5 chain, 7 double on 7 treble of previous row, 5 chain, double on next treljle, 5 chain, 3 double on 3 treble, 3 chain, turn. 9th row — 2 treble on treble of last row, 2 chain, i double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble into double crochet, 2 chain, double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double crochet, 2 chain, double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 double crochet, 3 chain, turn. loth row — 2 treble on 2 treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble in next 7 stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, I double into centre of 7 treble of previous row, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble in next 7 stitches, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 treble, I chain, turn, nth row — 3 double on 3 treble of previous row, 5 chain, 7 double on 7 treble, 5 chain, 7 double on 7 treble, 5 chain, 3 double crochet on 3 treble, 3 chain, turn. 12th row — 2 treble into 2 double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double of previous row, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 double of previous row, 3 chain, turn. 13th row — 2 treble into 2 treble of last row, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into centre of 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble in next 7 stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, double crochet into centre of 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 treble, I chain, turn. 14th row — 3 double on 3 treble of last row, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, 7 double crochet on 7 treble, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, 3 double crochet on 3 treble, 3 chain, and turn, isth row — 2 treble on 2 double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of S chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of S chain, 2 chain, 7 treble on 7 double crochet of last row, 2 chain, double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 double crochet, 3 chain, turn. i6th row — 2 treble on 2 treble of last row, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double into centre of 7 treble of previous row, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 treble, I chain, turn. 17th row — 3 double crochet on 3 treble of last row, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, double crochet on treble, 5 chain, 3 double crochet on 3 treble of previous row, 3 chain, turn. l8th row-^2 treble on 2 double of last row, 2 chain, double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet in centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double crochet, 2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, treble on double,2 chain, double crochet into centre of 5, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 double crochet, 3 chain, turn. 19th 172 row— 2 treble on 2 treble of last row, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 cham, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, treble on treble, 2 chain, double crochet on double crochet, 2 chain, 3 treble on 3 treble, i chain, turn, and repeat from * at 2nd row to any length required. This pattern with the lace to match, done in No, 6 knitting cotton, will make a very handsome quilt for a bed. The insertion could be made in strips of 3 diamonds wide and so arranged as for the middle diamonds to be widest at the narrow points of the side ones. v'Cfl COLLAR FOR LADY WITH ROSARY BEADS. This pretty little collar is crocheted in buff-coloured crochet cotton, which contrasts nicely with the brown colour of the rosary beads. It may also be worked in white cotton with beads to match the costume with which it is intended to be worn. No. 30 is a good size of cotton to use. ist row — * * g chain, miss i, 8 double,* turn, I chain, 8 double; repeat from * 4 times more. Repeat irom** until you have worked the required length. From 18 to 22 patterns will make a collar. It is best to measure with an inch measure the size necessary to go outside the neck band of the dress, and to meet nicely in front. 2nd row — I double into the top corner of the 1st square of last row, * 12 chain, i double into the next corner where 2 squares join, 6 chain, take out the needle and insert it into the 5th stitch of the 12 chain, draw through the loop, 7 chain, I double into the first of the 7 chain, 7 chain, i double into the same stitch between the squares into which you have already worked a double stitch, 6 chain, take out the needle, and insert it into the first stitch of the last 7 chain, draw through the loop, 5 chain, I double into the top corner of the last square ; repeat from * to the end. 3rd row — i double into the 1st double stitch of last row,* 4 chain, I single into the ist of the 4 chain; this forms what we shall call a purl. Work a roll picot into the next loop formed by 7 chain in last row, i purl, then another roll picot, and so on until you have 7 roll picots and 8 purls all worked into the same loop, I double into the next double of last row ; repeat from * to the end. To work roll picot — make a loop on the needle to start from, then throw the thread round the needle 9 times, as in treble stitch, draw all these threads up close together with the middle finger of the right hand, insert the needle into whichever loop you wish to work the roll picot, draw through a loop of thread, draw this loop up close to the 9 threads already on the needle, and hold all together firmly between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand, draw through all a loop of thread, and make a chain stitch to firm it, taking care to leave the thread sufficiently loose not to crush the roll picot, but yet not so loose as to hinder it being firm. When you have come to the last fan of roll picots, which will bring you to the top comer of the last square, make another fan with the centre of the side of the square and work a double stitch into the next comer of the square. This will bring you without breaking the thread to the 4th row; 6 chain, I treble into the centre stitch of the next side of the same square, 5 chain, i double into the next corner. This turns the corner and brings you to the opposite side of the foundation row of squares, * 5 chain, throw the thread twice round the needle as if for a long stitch, insert the needle half way between the top comer and the corner where the 2 squares join, draw through a loop; there should thusbe 4 loops on the needle. Now work off 2 loops at a time until only 2 loops remain on the needle, throw the thread once round the needle, and insert it half way between the comer where the 2 squares join and the next top corner, draw through another loop and then work off all the loops on the needle two at a time, 5 chain, i double into the next top corner ; repeat from * till you come to the top corner of the laSt square, then work 5 chain, i treble into the centre of the next side of the square, 5 chain, i double into the next comer. Work a fan of purls and roll picots the same as those in last row into the centre stitch of the next side of the square, finish off by working a THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. s'ngle stitch into the ist stitch of 3rd row — fasten off the thread neatly so that the join may not be apparent. 5th row — commence at the chain stitch before the ist treble of the 4th row to work a row of double stitch all across, leaving off at the chain stitch after the last treble in the last row. 6th row — turn the work. In this row work only into the front strand of the stitches of last row, i chain, I double *, 3 chain, miss 3, 9 double, repeat from * to the end of the row, ending off with 3 chain, miss 3, i double. 7th row — i chain to turn, * 2 double, i purl, miss i ; repeat from * to the end of the row, finishing off with 2 double; fasten off the thread. Sew a close row of rosary beads along the purls in the last row, and i bead into the centre of each of the fans of roll picot. CAP FOR SERVANTS. Materials required : Messrs. Bay ley & Wright's six-cord sewing cotton Nos. 40 and 50, and a fine steel crochet hook. Star No. i. 1st round — make 13 chain, unite, work 28 double crochet under the circle, tight firm work. 2nd round — turn the wrong side of the double crochet towards you, and make i double crochet stitch in a double crochet stitch, 22 chain, miss i stitch, and double cro- chet in next on the ring, now work 2 double crochet under the chain, 3 chain, 2 double crochet under same chain, 3 chain, 2 double crochet under same chain, 3 chain, 2 double crochet, make l6 chain, * miss I stitch on the centre circle of double crochet, now work 2 double crochet under 16 chain, 3 chain, 2 double crochet, 3 chain, 2 double crochet, 3 chain, 2 double crochet, 16 chain, and repeat from * unto end of round; unite by making 5 chain, and slipstitch into 7th of the 22 chain first made; there should be 14 loops of chain in all. 1 3rd round— work 7 double crochet under each loop of chain. Star No. 2. 1st round— make 8 chain, unite, work 7 chain, i treble under circle, 3 chain, i treble under circh, 3 chain, i treble under circle, 3 cham, I treble under circle, 3 ch .in, now make i slipstitch into 4th of the 7 chain first worked. 2nd round — i double crochet, 7 treble, i double crochet, all to be worked under the first 3 chain of the last row, this is to be repea ed under each of the 3 chain, there should be 5 lots in all. 3rd round— 5 chain, double crochet between double crochet of last row, keeping the chain and work- ing at the back of first leaf, 5 chain, and repeat all round. 4th round— I double crochet, 9 treble, i double crochet under each loop of the 5 chain. 5th round— i double crochet between the 2 double crochet of last row, 7 chain, repeat round, working at the back of the flower. 6th round— i double crochet, 11 treble, I double crochet under each loop of 7 chain. 7th round — double crochet between double crochet of last row, 9 chain, repeat all round, working at the back. 8th round— i double crochet, 13 treble, I double crochet under each loop of 9 chain. 9th round— put the needle into the top of 2nd treble of a leaf, and make 7 chain, * miss 2, 1 treble into 3rd, 3 chain, miss 3, i treble, 3 chain, miss 2, I treble, 4 chain, miss 4, and make i treble, which should fall on the 2nd treble of next leaf, 3 chain, and repeat from * all round, loth round— double crochet under loop of chain, 6 chain, double crochet under next loop, repeat; there should be 20 loops of 6 chain. You wiE require 3 stars of this pattern. Star No. 3. 1st round — 13 chain, unite, work 28 double crochet very close under the circle. 2nd round — 4 double crochet into 4 stitches of the previous row, 5 chain; now, without missing any stitches, 4 double crochet in 4 next stitches on the circle as before, 5 chain, and repeat all round; there should be 7 loops of chain in all. 3rd round — into a loop of 5 chain work i double crochet, * 7 chain, I double into next loop of 5 chain, and repeat all round from *. 4th round — I double crochet 13 treble, and i double crochet under each loop of 7 chain ; there should be 7 groups in all. You will require 5 stars of this pattern. Star No. 4. 1st round— make 13 chain, unite, work 28 firm double crochet under circle. 2nd round — now hold the wrong side of the star next towards you, make 22 chain, miss i, double crochet on the circle, slipstitch into the next, now work 9 double crochet under loop of chain, * make 16 chain, miss i double crochet on circle, and slipstitch into the next, g double crochet under last made chain, repeat from *; there should be 13 lots of 9 double; having made these, make 5 chain, and slipstitch into the 7th chain of the 22 chain first made. 3rd round — work 7 double crochet under each loop of chain ; there are 14 lots in all. You will require 2 stars of this pattern. Star No. 5. 1st round— make 15 chain, unite, and work 45 treble under circle, they must be done tight and firm. 2nd round— double cro- chet into 1st treble, 6 chain, miss 2 treble, and double crochet into 3rd treble, 6 chain, and repeat all round; there should be 15 loops of chain. 3rd round — work 3 treble under 6 chain, 3 chain, 3 treble under next loop of chain, 3 chain, repeat this all round; there should be 15 lots of 3 treble. 4th round— double crochet under loop of chain, 9 chain, double under next loop, 9 chain, repeat all round; there should be 15 loops of 9 chain. 5th round — make 11 double crochet under each loop of 9 chain; this finishes the star. You will require 2 stars of this pattern. Star No. 6. This is the small star for border round the cap. ist round — make 13 chain and unite, work 32 treble under the circle, and join neatly. 2nd round — 5 chain, miss i, and make I treble in next, 2 chain, * miss i, make I treble, 2 chain, repeat from * all round ; there should be 1 6 holes round, and after the first star is made all others must be joined as you work the outside row; to join them work a double crochet into I hole of first star, then i chain, then make i treble on the unfinished star, i chain, now double cro- chet into next hole on the first star, now i treble on the unfinished star, 2 chain, and continue round the star like the one first made. You will find it requires 26 or 27 of these small stars to go all round the cap; there should be 6 open holes on each side of the star, besides the 2 at each side which are used for joining. Cut a paper pattern of the proper size and shape, and place the stars according to pattern, tack them firmly in proper position, also the border of small stars round; now unite them by chains with picots upon it, according as you require them; all the chains and picots for joining must be No. 50 cotton, the stars being all worked with the No. 40. All the stars in this cap must be worked very tight and firm, or it will make the cap too large, and spoil the appearance of the work. New Edition. Jvist Out. Price Twopence. HIO'VT- TO IDA.2SrOE, By an M.C. Giving the Steps and Figures of all the New and Country Dances, with Tllctionary of French Terms used in Dancing; lUugtrationa of Ball-Room Dresses, B air-dressing, &c. Post free, Three Stamps. POCKET £DITIO N, handsomely bound, sent post free in envelope for 7 stamps R. S. CARTwaiQHT, 8 Johnson's Court, Fleet street, London, E.G. 173 THE FANCV WORg:BASKET, OPEN ANTIMACASSAR. Materials: — 6 ozs. of No. 30 crochet cotton, No. 4 steel hook. Wind the cotton round the forefinger 26 times, then work in the ring thus formed 36 Jong treble, and join with slipstitch, then 9 chain, i double in the 3rd long treble, * 9 chain, miss 2 long treble, i double in next ; repeat from * 10 times more. This completes the circle. There is I circle in the ist row, 2 in the 2nd, 3 in the 3rd, 4 in the 4th, 5 in the 5th, 6 in the 6th, 5 again in the 7th, and so on alternately 5 and 6 for 29 rows, then graduate the other end the same as the first end. The stars are joined by the loops of 9 chain. Work 6 loops, then 4 chain, catch a loop of another circle, 4 more chain, and finish loop as usual ; catch the next loop in the same way, then 2 loops of another circle, then 2 loops of another, and finish circle as usual. Fringe in every loop of 9 chain at both ends. LADIES' COLLAR. Materials required : 10 yards of crSme Gordon braid, fine make, ^ skein creme crochet cotton No. 28, a steel hook No. 4. Measure a piece of braid 16 inches in length, cut it off. Now begin at the other end and work i single into a picot, 4 chain, miss 3 picots, I single into 4th, * 4 chain, miss 3 picots, i single into next; repeat from * once more, i chain, miss 3 picots, pull your cotton loosely through the 4th, and repeat from * 3 times more, keeping all the loops on your needle, draw the cotton through all and make I chain, i single in centre of the 4 chain that you worked before, drawing yeur 4 loose loops, 2 chain, miss 3 picots of braid, i single into 4th, 2 chain, i single into centre of next 4 chain, 2 chain, miss 3 picots, I single into next 2 chain, I single into next 4 chain, 2 chain, I single into 4th picot of neckpiece, 2 chain, i single into next 174 picot of scallop piece, 3 chain, miss 3 picots of neck, i single -into 4th, 2 chain, I single into next picot of scallop piece, 2 chain, i single into next picot of scallop, and repeat from * until you have worked up all the 16 inches of braid. Join the scallops together on th^ inside, put your needle in the loop parallel with the 5 loops you draw together, catch together the loop on opposite side of scallop, draw the cotton through all 3 loops at once. There should be 30 scallops. Now do the edging on other side of neckpiece in same way, except that you make only one 4 chain each scallop and 4 picots between. There should be 25 scallops. Do not cut the braid; work it neatly down the side of long scallop with single stitch. 2nd row — 4 chain, miss 3 scallops twice, draw together the 3 picots as before, work the other side as before, 2 chain, miss 4 picots of the ist row, single into next, 2 chain, double into next picot of lower row, 2 chain, single into 5th picot of 2nd scallop of upper row, 2 chain, double into next picot of lower row, 2 chain, miss 2 picots of upper row, single into next, 2 chain, double into next picot of lower row, 2 chain, miss 2 picots of upper row, single into next, 4 chain into next picot and repeat. Do 3 more rows like the 2nd, which will increase the collar to the proper shape. Answers to Correspondents. Knitteb. — If you will send a stamped addressed envelope, we will send corrected pattern for lace. Eva. — About No. 8 Strutt's salmon tie would be a very good Bize. A SuBSCKtBER. — We have given several pretty watch pocket patterns, but have some nice crochet ones waiting to be published. An Interbstkd Onb. — We can send you the wool for 2s. Mrs. M. A. Rat.— 1. We thought the wool roses were explained very clearly. See what you can make of those in the mats given in present issue. If you cannot succeed, send Is. and a stamped en velope, and we will com- mence one for you. 2. We can send j'ou the back numbers containing directions for Macrame work for Is. Sd. Pansy. — See 1st answer to Thistle. DoLLlB. — Your request for pattern3 and instruction? for Mountmelli:k embroidery shall be complied with shortly. A. Ddnn. — By the " mouse pattern " we think you must mean the one figured on page 117, Vol. I. If so, would not the border on p. 165, Vol. I., suit you ? Some tufted crochet borders will appear shortly in the Fancy Work-Basket. ToKio. — Knitted braces are not very popular amongst gentlemen. Double knitting or any close fancy stitch can be used. The making up will have to be done by a professional. Millie. — 1. A curved board is most elegant for a mantel-piece. The secret of good work on toile crosse is to fill in the foundation as closely as possible, using either leviathan or other fancy stitches. Shades of colour are more popular just now than contrasts. It is almost impossible to advise as to the colour to be used in the work without knowing the dominant tone of the room for which it is intended. Would warm shades of crimson and grey on a dark background, or shades of brown and gold on a foundation ot chestnut-brown, be suitable ? 2. The Grannie Bonnet is intended for two years old, but can be readily adapted to any age. 3. Plaques are round plates with designs upon them, either china or terra-cotta. Simple ones are made by framing pictures with plusb. LnoT Lawrence. — We regret that your friends' dilemma arose from a printer's error. The fold should have been 2 inches wide, not 12 inches. Thistle. — 1. We will bear in mind your request for tatting designs. Patterns for drawn linen work will appear shortly. 2. It is not easy to procure pieces of silk for patchwork, the shops usually find the demand greater than the supply, the best chance would be to apply to a private dressmaker. Bust Bee. — There are two books on leather work. The Art of Model- hng in Leather, by Mme. Elise, published by Barnard, Edgware Road, price Is. 6d., and The Art of Modelling in Leather, by Mrs. Mogridge, published at Is., by Routledge & Co. Madsie Clabe. — 1. There should be no difficulty in working shell stitch in a square if the number of chain at the end of each shell stitch be varied. We have found it to set quite flat if three chain be worked at the corners, and two after every stitch at the sides, but much depends upon whether you crochet tightly or loosely. 2. The 8th row has six sheila In it. *^**-****^^--*****^^***'*^ The " Christian Ho ;ild " aaya : "Mrs. Leicli'ri Booka are the pioneerii of DRESSMAKING AT HOME.' SOO pairs of Gloves GIVEN AWAY See Mrs. LEACH'S FAMILY DRESSMAKER. Monthly, price 2d. All News- agents, or post free, 3 stamps. iTTT. V ... ■» » »»»» ■^****-^-***-* A Paper Pattern giren away with every Number. PRICE Id. Mrs. I^EACH'S Children's Dressmaker Published on the 10th of ike Month for the Month folloicing. How to Cut out, Make and Trim Mantles, Costumes, &c. , for Children and Youdgt Ladies of all ages. AIL Newsagents, or post free, two stamps. warn Art-Needlework. FANCY WORK FOR BEGINNERS. No. I. The New Outline Fairy Antimacassar. The picture represents a fairy Swinging on a rope of creepers suspended from the branch of a tree, with water, buUnshes, moon and stars. The principal figures, such as the fairy, moon, stars, and water should be pale ; the trees, swing, bulrushes, &c., a dark shade ; this will enhance the effective beauty of the whole. Commencing with the fairy : the dress should be pale purple, or lavender, and the shoes of the same colour, but a shade or so darker ; the wings may be of a pale lavender, or slate tinted mth pale and rose pink. The arms, legs, and features must be worked very neatly, with fine black sewing silk. • The hair must be of dead gold, and the star of a deeper shade of the same ; which also applies to the other stars and to the moon. The outhnes of the clouds require the same silk (black) as that used for the arms, legs and features. The wa^er should be pale blue-green. The trunk and branches of the tree should be dark olive, or Vandyke brown. The stems of the creepers a paler tint of bro^vn, and the leaves may be worked in shades of sage-green. The same browns and greens used for the trees and creepers will serve for the grass and rushes. The stitch to be used is the ordinary back or stem-stitch, and vrorkers should be carefiil, especially with the face, arms, &c, not to use stitches longer than the eighth of an inch, or even less, to insure the accuracy of the features. A stitch sometimes used in outlining is merely a variety of the running stitch worked by passing the needle under a single thread only of the material. The work may be done either in fine crewels, crewel silks, or filoselles ; crewel silks for preference — although a greater variety of colsur may be found in filoselles, the threads of which .thould be divided. The design here depicted is one-sixteenth the size of the original, and has been specially drawn. For the convenience of subscribers we can supply a good quality Zulu cloth antima- cassar, 17 inches by 28 inches, traced with the above sketch, fringed, knotted, and prepared for working, at the small cost of Is. ^d , post free, to any part of the United Kingdom. Address, Mrs. Clara Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London, S.E. Design for a Table Set OF 7 Pieces, traced for Braiding. This toilet-table set consists of seven pieces, and will look very neat if braided with a shaded braid, viz.» scarlet and white, black and white, or amber and blue. The scallop to be worked with a but- ton-hole stitch in white embroidery cotton. The set may be had, traced on white matsala, for J^in* Stamps, pott/ree. Address Mrs. Clara Leach, 37,N«w Kent Road London, ^S^= ^^ V;^ ^^ Fa -iY ANTI^■ACAS^A1. r\ . J. Sliiteks. This forget-menjt design is extremely for slippers and smoking cap. The material be black cloth. Ko. J. Smoking Cap. *> The flowers can either be woiltod in crewel silks or fine worsted crewels. There are two kinds of worsted crew- els, fine, or single thread, and ordinary crewel, which latter consists of two strands loosely twisted. There are many varieties of quality in these as in other materials, but for the benefit and better appearance of the work we advise the use of none but the best — which are cheapest in the end. The colours required will be two shades of blue, two shades of sage green, two shades of rose-pink, three shades of olive-green, and one shade of yellow. Forget-me-not flowers and bud-tips in the blue shades, three petals of dark, and two petals of lighter shade. These small flowers must be worked in the satin stitch (Diagram 3),or simply over and over as in button- f / I ' holing, without catching up the loop \ % / of the thread. The forget-me-not / U \£ leaves must be worked straight up and "* vE4. down from stem to tip, and veined with the dark shade. The stems and twigs are worked in the ordinary ' back stitch (Diagram 4), as in ouUining. « The pretty rose-leaves require the crewel-stitch (Diagram 2), should and must be worked from the edges /fl the centre leaf vein, the stitches taking the general direction of the branch leaf veins, thus :— Smoking Cap. Diagram 8. After filling in the leaf with the two lighter shades of olive-green, follow out the leaf vems with the darkest shade. Be carefiil in this, as in all other instances where two or more shades are used, to let the stitches ilend, and so change imperceptibly as it were, from one shade to the other. The rose- buds may be worked from stem to tip, and two shades of rose-pink nicely blended, and worked likewise from stem to tip, will serve to fill the flower part visible. It may here be observed that in almost all tracings of designs, what are called the shading lines give a very good notion of the direction the stitches should take. In the centr*. of each forget-me-not, a Frauh kmt of yellow «''« complete the flower. The French knot is maW by passing the needle through the centre, and taking a turn of the thread round ihe needle, and then returning it in the same spot, when a littlo loaf-like excrescence will result thus : — Diagram 9. Cbsei-ve that the needle points np the thread, and must be turned to be re-inserted. The border design for the smoking cap may be used for a dresj trimming. The smoking cap and slippers can be supphed traced ready for working on best plain black cloth ; the slippers for 2s. 2d., smoking cap, 2s. 6d. SAMPLES OF CREWEL WORK FOR BEGINNERS. For the convenience of ladies who may t'csire to learo art-needlework, but are unwil ing to try thch 'prentice hands on \Tluable pieces of work, such as those advertisf d in our columns, we propose to offer them a " Feginner's Sample." post free, is., frcm Mrs. Claba Leach, at ad- dress below. This beginner's samp'e will be a piece of material traced with any flcwer in general use, part of which \vill be commenced by a first-class lady artist : suffi- cient tracing left to poactise upon, and extra crewel and needle for that purpose Such a scheme for teaching is sure to be appredated, for no better mode can be imaginetl Address, ^irs. Clara Leach, 37, New Kent Road, Lon- don, S.E. ^ Mrs. LEACH'S CORSETS, LADIES' BELTS AND ODTFITTIFG ESTABliSiiIEST. 37, SEW KENT ROAD, LOSDOli, l.\, Hear the Clephint and Castle Station. Please send poit card for Ulusf rated Price List. ^rice 2d.1 Mrs. LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET CONTENTS OF NUMBERS. [Montlily. Mrs. Leacli's Practical FANCY WORK-BASKET IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY, And may be had of aU newsvendors, price 2d., or post free 24d. from B. S. OABTWBiaHT, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet St., London, E.C. ALL THE B ACK MUMBERS ARE IH PRINT. No. 1 contains : — Crewel Work : giving full Instructioiifl for every etitch, with diagrams ; also direc- tions lor Crewelling Slippers, Cushions, Antimacassars, &c. Embroidery: giving every stitch, with diagrams. Knitting, with every stitch lUustratod. Crochet, with every stitch illustrated. Also how to Knit Socks, Stock- ings. Loop Knitting— Brioche ; Infant's Vest, Bodice and Binder; Lady's Petticoat; Beaded CuflE; Jersey; Infant's Bonnet ; Hearthrug. How to Crochet Pelisses, Petticoats, Slippers, Antimacassars, Sofa Blanket; also Netted Frills for potted meats, &c., and Netted Doyley. ^ No. 2 contains: — Knitting and How to Set about it — How to shape Stockings of any size, with all the methods of turning heels and toes ; Quitt Patterns ; Gloves (silk and wool) ; Bassinette Cover ; Baby's First Jacket ; Child's Combinations for 2 years ; Shawl and Scarf Patterns ; Cuff and Gauntlet; Baby's Boots; Gentleman's Sock; Knitted Vest; Sofa Blanket, Leaf and Trellis Pattern; Infant's Petticoat: Canadian Gloves and Mittens. How to Crochet— Lady s Cape in Point Neige; Petticoats; Little Girl's Hood ; Loop Crochet ; Lady's Underbodice ; Crossover; Mats; Basket Pattern ; Crossed Treble Pattern; Collar and Cuffs for Little Boy; Imitation of Needlework; Chemise "Triaunings ; Baby's Cloak and Hood ; Slippers in Point Neige for 4 years; Shawl Patterns; Fascmator; £dging5 and Insertions, with Antimacassar Braid ; Sofa Cushion; Bedroom Shppers in Russia:n Crochet; Infant's Shawl Hood; also— Fem Work; Netting; Home Made Hearthrugs, &€. No. 3 contains : — Home Decorations. — Chair or Bed Pockets ; Toilet Cushions ; Hair Tidies ; Table ; Blotting Pads ; Table Covers ; Foot Stools ; Waste Paper Basket ; Purse Bag ; Handy Work Bag ; Work-basket ; Tea Cosies ; Screens ; Pretty Coverlids, &c. Patchwork — American Crazy ; Log Cabin ; Cosy Hearthrug ; Decora- tions for the little ones, &c., Ac. How to Kmt— Infants* Stays; Handsome Shawl ; Frockfors years; Lady's Cape; Baby's Long Stockings; Infant's Under Vest; Baby's Glove ; Baby's Boots ; Baby Boys' Hats ; Baby's Hood ; Jersey Suit. How to Crochet — Bedroom Slippers ; Hand- some Antimacassar in Squares ; Creeve Paletot for 5 years ; Out -door Dress for i to 2 years ; Babies' Jackets ; Baby's Cloak; Baby's Hood; Baby's Boot; Petticoats; Tam o' Shanter ; Jersey Suit ; Kilt Suit ; Shoulder Cape, &c. * No. 4 contains : — Presents for Gentlemen — Shirt Box ; Pincushion ; Trinket Box ; Bedroom Slippers ; Neck Bolster ; Smoking Cap ; CuflEs ; Vest ; Gloves ; Tam o' Shanter ; Watchguards ; Housewives, &c., &c How to Knit— Bassinette Cover ; Quilt ; Stocking for 7 to 10 years, with shaped knee; Ca-lia, Hat and Muff in Loops; Shawl in Leaf Pattern ; Nightdress Bag ; Hood for Women ; Lady's Under Vest ; Beaded Cuffs ; Creeve Stocking ; Openwork Silk Stockings ; Petticoat for 2 to 4 years ; Baby's Glove ; Vest for 6 months ; Infant's Jacket and Boots, and Lady's Summer Petticoat. How to Crochet — Soft Lace ; Babies' Edgings ; Edging with Antimacassar Braid and other Pretty Edgings ; Doyleys ; Wool Antima- cassar ; Dress in Point Neige for 18 months ; Quilt for Cradles ; Shoulder Cape ; Lady's Petticoat ; Openwork Pinafore ; Dress for Boy or Girl ; Bath Slippers ; Child's Bodice in Tricot ; Petticoat for 2 to 3 years in Daisy Stitch ; Petticoat for 10 years ; Hood in Pomt Neige for 6 months ; Pretty Dress for 10 months ; Baby's Boot No. 6 contains :— MountmelUck Embroidery ; How to Knit— Openwork Stockings, Spider Web Pattern ; Roseleaf and Grecian Net Patterns ; Double Coraline Pattern; Grape Pattern; Lattice Edging; Fine Shetland Shawl, Queen's Lace, Strawberry Pattern ; Pheasant's Eye Pattern ; Tansy Pattern ; Coral Pattern ; Pretty Ruffle ; Lady's Plain Cuffs ; Good Hearthrug ; Carriage Rug ; Mat ; Frock for 9 to 18 months ; Lady's Vest ; Vest for L years ; Vest for 6 months ; Chest Protector for i year ; ady's Jersey ; Garters ; Boy's Stockings for 8 to 10 years ; Girl's Stockings for 5 years ; Baby's Open Diamond Pattern Sock ; Infants' Boots; Ladies' and Children's Petticoats. How to Crochet— Child's Combination Petticoat ; Bonnet for ^ years ; Frock In Russian Crochet for 12 months ; Ladies' and Children's Petticoats ; Shawl in Honey Crochet, and other Patterns ; Baby's Couvrette ; Wool Quilt ; Peram- bulator Cover; Wool Antimacassars; Cotton ditto; Star Patterns; Edgings; Crochet Doyley; Gimp Trimming; Hearthrugs ; Tea Cosy ; Beaded Purse ; Fancy Collarette ; Tea Cosy ; Garters for Boys and Girls ; Daisy Fringe. No. 6 contains : — How to Knit— Lady's Even- ing Cape; Ladies and Children's Petticoat; Sea-beach Jackets ; Infants Spencers ; Wool Boots ; Creeve Stock- ings; Infant's Sock for 12 months, Church Window Pattern ; Night Slippers ; Infant's Under Vest ; Small Jersey ; Baby Girls' Bonnets ; Antimacassar ; Jersey for 3 years ; Bramble Pattern ; Honeycomb Pattern ; Daisy Stitch ; Diamond Edge ; Double Knitting Creeve Square Shawl ; Creeve Fichu ; Pretty Edgings. How to Crochet — Cape in Canadian Fan Stitch ; Child's Dress in Point Neige ; Girl's Jacket for 2 years ; Infant's Jacket, Wave Pattern ; Child's Hood ; Dotted Tricoter ; New Pattern for Shawls ; Star Antimacassars ; Pretty Lace Edgings. No. 7 contains : — Mirror Painting. How to Knit— Qmlt, Raised Leaf Pattern and Diamond Pattern, Lace Pattern ; Couvrettes in Arrow Pattern, Herringbone Pattern, TreUis Pattern ; Vest or Comforter ; Combina- tions for Child of 8 and 3 years ; Drawers for 3 years ; Petticoat for 1 year; Infant's Boot; Cuffs; Housemaids' Knee Caps ; Wool Respirator ; Dish Cloth ; Pretty Lace Edgings. How to Crochet — Woollen Couvrette; Creeve Wrap; Panels for Dresses; Lady's Petticoat; Child's Petticoat ; Infants' Jacksts ; Hood and Cape in one for Baby ; Jacket for Infants 6 months old ; Stays for 1 to 2 years; Jam Pot Co\^ ■ Remnants for the Bag Bag; Cretonne Work ; Honey ^ >m]> Darning ; German Cross- stitch Work; Oriental \i k. No. 8 contains : — Macram^ Work, first steps in. What to make for Bazaars — Novel Candlestick Pen- wiper ; Dahlia Penwiper; Patchwork ; Spectacle Cleaners : Dinner Mats ; Table Napkin Rings ; Pence Bag ; Pence Hat ; Postage Stamp Case ; Egg Cosy ; Bed Pocket for Handkerchiefs, &c. ; Pincushions, How to Knit a Quilt in Octagons ; Antimacassars ; Sofa or Carriage Rug ; Gate Pattern ; Bean Pattern • Honeycomb Pattern ; Scallop Shell Pattern ; Rain Pattern ; Reins for Children ; Infant's Frock ; Infant's Jacket ; Pincushion Cover ; Lady's Wrap ; Drawers for Boy of 6 years ; Pretty Edg- ings ; Creeve Embroidery. How to Crochet— Tam o' Shanter for Infant ; Infant's Dress ; Petticoat for Child 2 to 4 years; Infant's Jaoket; Little Boy's Collar; Cot Quilt ; Antimacassar ; Mat for Vase of Flowers ; Sleeping Socks. No. 9 contains : — Macram^ Wort, first steps in. Painting on Terra Cotta. Antimacassar in Fem Splash- ing ; Stove Ornament ; Nighifl ross Sachet ; Bassinette Pillow Case; Cot Ditto; Wall-Pocket; Writing Case; Scrap Bag ; Bead Work. How to Knit — Infants' Petticoats; Fascinators; Cloud, Littlo Boy's Collar; Counterpanes; Curtains in Chevron Pattern ; Star Pattern ; Raised-Leaf Border ; Diamond Pattern ; Kilt Plait Pattern ; Vandyke Border ; Bed Rest for Invalids ; Pudding Cloth ; Lace Edging ; Crimean Helmet ; Wool Balls. How to Crochet — Dress in Tricot for 4 years ; Lady's Shaped Petticoat in Tricot ; Tricoter Knot Stitch ; Infant's Jacket in Tricoter Knot Stitch ; Infant's Tam o' Shanter in Tufts ; Collar and Cuffs with Roll Picot Edge ; Fringe Trimming with Roll Picots ; Infant's Boots ; Washing Hand ; Bag for Bathing Dress ; Easter Egg Cosy ; Vine Leaf Edging ; Pinafore Edging ; Twisted Edging. No. 10 contains : — How to Knit — Lady's Jersey; Raised Spot-pattern; Tea Cosy, Egg Cosy and Teapot Handle Holder in Diamond Pattern ; Bell Pattern for Quilt; Shawl Patterns; Baby Girl's Hood; Myrtle Leaf Pattern ; Narrow Edging ; Pattern for Curtains, &c. How to Crochet — Simple Petticoat for Infant; Tam O'Shanter for Baby Boy ; Children's Collars ; Lady's Bedroom Slippers ; Infant's Bib ; Infant's Boot ; Bicycle Cap ; Antimacassar in Raised or Open Squares ; Hand- some Lace for Dresses; Wool Antimacassar, Zigzag Pattern ; Watch Pocket ; Star Pincushion ; Star Anti- macassar ; Antimacassar or Couvrepied ; Square for Quilt; Pretty Star for Antimacassar; Arch Edging and Insertion : Waved Braid Edging ; Baby's Edgings ; Simple Edging ; Lattice Patteni ; Fern-leaf Edging ; Nightdress Edging ; Medallion Edging ; Star Edging ; Infant's Jacket in Mosaic Stitch ; Teapot Stand ; Kettle or Ironholder; Teapot Holder. How to Make— Canvas Chair Backs; Tennis Racket Pincushion; Pence Jug; Table Napkin Ring ; Ball Workbag. No. 11 contains :— Art Needlework— Brackets ; Valances ; Butterfly Penwiper Embroidery ; Trinket Case, Ac. Bead Work — Lace and Insertion ; Butterfly ; Plastron and Cuffs ; Fuchsia ; Lily ; Beaded Bonnet. Macramd Work— The Curl Pattern ; the Star Pattern ; the Cleopatra Pattern, How to Make — Pretty Badge for Sailor Tunic ; Japanese Palm Leaf Screen ; Boot or Shoe Bags; Useful Patchwork; Hairpin Lace; Anglo-Indian Embroidery ; Hints on Utilising Christmas Cards ; Work Case ; Fire Grate Screen in Netting. How to Knit — Collar with Deep Scallops ; Jacket in Lattice Pattern, 1 to 2 years ; Ridge Pattern ; Viennoise Pattern ; Diamond with Open Trellis ; Infant's Gaiter ; Vest for 3 years ; Creeve Seesaw Cap ; Work Bag or Feet Warmer ; SmaU Shawl ; Drawing Room Pincushion ; Leaf and Trellis Pattern; Trellis Pattern, &c. How to Crochet— Trim- ming for Child's Dress ; Summer Quilt ; Tufted Quilt ; Creeve Collar and Cuffs ; New Design for Lady's Petticoat ; Petticoat for 6 to 8 years ; Infant's Tricot Petticoat ; Lady's MufBe ; Lady's Travelling Bonnet ; Baby Girl's Hood ; Toilet Tidies, &c. No. 12contains : — Kells Embroidery. Smocking. Art Needlework. Crystoleum Fainting. Macram^ Work. How to make— Receptacle for Tennis Balls ; Glove Box ; Knitting Needle Caps; Daisy Toilet Cushion; Sunpla Work Case. How to Knit— Lady's Shetland Bodice; Nun's Pattern; Costume for 5 years; Tulip Pattern. How to Crochet— Beaded Mat ; Canadian Fascixiator ; Ball Hslder ; String Bag ; Case for Crochet Needle ; Sham- rock Collar; Baby's SUpper with Ankle Strap; Inf^tnfs Summer Jacket; Bonnet in Crochet aiid Jet ; FanBojr^er for Shawls, &c. No. 13 contains :— Photograph Fainting; Stnall Table Mats; Bell Ropes; Scent Bottle Case; Bdok Markers; Hollan'^ Chatelaines; Fan Pincushion ;. iMa- cram6 Work. How to Knit — Pincushion Covet^in Raised ^eaf Pattern; Lady's Princess Bonnet; German Pattern; New Patterns for Beaded Cuffs; Fringe ; Lady's Vest ; Kettle Holder ; Improved Method of Casting on Stitches ; Tea Cosy ; Teapot Handle Holder ; Infant's Vest ; Travelling Cap; Handsome Shawl, Leaf Pattern ; Emigrant's Vest ; Lady's Petticoat. How to Crocliet— Fascination Dolman; Egg Cosy; Round Shawl; Fluted Tam o' Shanter; Shetland Head Wrap ; Lady's Comfort- albe Evening Hood and Cape in Point Neige ; Shoulder Cape in Crazy Stitch ; Cheese Serviette ; Raised Mat for Vase ; Tassel Bag ; Princess Petticoat ; Stylish Woel Bonnet ; Tufted Quilt ; Work Bag ; Lady's Night Net.; Infant's Bib ; Wool Hat for Baby Boy ; Baby's Gloves ; Infant's Petticoat in Russian Wool; Creeve Edging; Shortway Edging ; Pretty Edging. No. 14 contains :~-How to Dress DoUs for Bazars Photograph Painting; Art Needlework; Bead Work; Macram6 Work; Work Bag. How to Knit — Hat._^Qr Baby Boy; Petticoat for Lady; Seotch Cap; Jjie Beasley Shawl Pattern ; Bracelets ; Petticoat for 1 Tear ; Striped Design for Shawls ; Opera Wrap ; Imitation Shoe and Sock; Pattern for Toilet Covers; Gentleman's Travel- ling Cap ; Antimacassar, Raised Plait Pattern ; El9hu ; Shawl Pattern ; The HoUy Pattern for Shawls • Infapts* Overalls and Bocks. How to Crochet — Square for Qhtlt ; Hood for Infant; Shoulder Shawl; Winter Jacket for Baby; Square Shawl; Fanchon; Edgings; Lady's Collar; Egg Cosy; Creeve Insertion; Dolls' Walking Costumes; Sailor Boy's Dress ; Long Clothes ; Shortening Costume ; Scarf ; Bathing Dress ; Hats ; Tam o' Shantera ; Han- telettes ; Muffs ; Hood and Cape ; Shawl ; Bonnfits ; Fascinator; Boots. . ,. No. 15 contains :— Our Coloured Supplement ; tea Cosy ; Bracket or Mantel Valance ; Settee Cover ; Border ; Hints for Christmas aid New Year's. Gifts ; Art Needle- work ; Children's Work at the Colonial: Exhibition. How to Knit— Diamond Stripe for iCounterpane ; Edging .to Match ; Fine Shetland Shawl ; Drawers for Ladies ; Vest for Infant. How to Crochet-— Cloud for Evening Wear ; Neck Handkerchief ; Tufted Tam o'Shan^er ; Jaoket ;for Infant ; Shoulder Cape ; Jacket in Russian Crochet ; Petticoat for 3 Years ; Head Flannel for Infant ; Cathe- rine Wheel Turban; Nightcap; Petticoat ; Simple Edg- ing; Bread Mat; Garden or Travelling Hood; String Ball Case ; Trimming for Infants' Pelisses. No. 16 contains : — On tiie Painting of Vaiious Articles for our Homes ; New Year or Birthday Presents ; Useful Articles Quickly Made ; Book Covers ; Ornamental Buttonholes; Border; Art Needlework; Gilded AppUqu^; Design for Quilt ; Kerchief Pinafore. How to Knit — SUk Handkei-chief ; Facile Stocking or Sock ; Sock ; Petticoat for Eighteen Months ; Vest for Child in Fancy Knitting ; Petticoat for Lady ; Petticoat for Infant ; Mittens in Fine Silk ; Petticoat for 14 Years ; Gentleman's Mitten ; Gentleman's Travelling Cap ; Neektie for <5entle- man ; Waistcoat for Gentleman ; poot for Infant ; Double Brioche Stitch. How to Crochet— Lady's Under Bodice ; The " Elf an " Dolman, 7 Years ; Evening Mantle ; Hood to Match ; Doll's Hat— Gainsborough Shape ; Doll Dressed as a Fishwife ; Trimming for Infants Pelisses ; Doll Dressed in Wool and Silk; Slipper Watchpockef; An- swers to Correspondents ; Sale Column, &c. ' ^. ■ No. 17 contains :— On the Painting of Various Articles for our Homes, Chapter 11. ; Art Needlework; Music Cases ; Fan Penwiper ; Fish Pincushion ; Bead Work ; Jubilee Design ; Work Case ; Rosette Work ; Union Jack Pincushion ; Book Covers ; Knitting Needle Case. How to Knit— Toilet Set ; Vest for Infant ; Ser- viette Ring ; Mitten ; Sock for 3 Tears ; Hood for In- fant ; Stockings for Lady ; Poultice Bandages ; Beaded Cuffs ; Elastic Belt ; Lady's Combination Qarmept ; Collar and Cuffs ; Brioche Petticoat ; Stripe for Shawls, &c. How to Crochet— Ladies' Nightcap ; Chemise l\)p ; Infant's Bib ; Dress for 1 to 2 Years ; Dress for 2 Co 8 Years ; Petticoat, 1 to 2 Years ; Petticoat for 4 Years ; Grannie Bonnet ; Bootikihs ; Shawl in Shetland Wool ; Opera Cloak ; Wool Basket ; Scarf in Shell Stitch ; Shawj in Pyrenean Wool ; Petticoat in Crazy Stitch ; Shawl . Fluted Mat ; Petticoat in Fancy Tricot ; Fte Penwiper . Tippet ; Answers to Correspondents ; Sale Column ; &o. No. 18 contains:— On Painting Useful Articlesj I ace Making ; Art Needlework ; Umbrella Case ; Bead- work ; Patchwork ; Embroidered Antimacassar ; Khick Knacks. How to Knit — Antimacassar; Combinatlozis ; suppers ; Infant's Hood ; Petticoat ; Socks ; Edging ; Gloves ; Drawers ; Gent's Vest ; Girl's Stocking ; Pie- dish Cover ; Bed Rest. How to Crochet— Shoulder Qape ; Antimacassar; Work Bag; Shppers'; Shawl; Couvrette; Boots; Lace Boa; Wrap Shawl; Sunflower Pincushion. fid the numbers are in print, and may be had of your Bookseller or Newsagent Three Numbers by post, 7 stamps, andsomely bound Volume^ gilt cloth^ price 35., post 35. 4^/. * R. Cartwright, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London* mm^w^wM'&w' A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. JUBILEE DESIGN FOR MANTEL-BORDER. This design is a particularly well-planned and effective one, and is intended to be carried out in satin-stitch on a foundation of a deep violet-colour. Either cloth, satin sheeting, or rich satin would be ap- propriate, while some of Liberty's materials in this colour would lend themselves admirably to such a style of enrichment. The main colours used in the embroidery itself are pale blue, terra cotta or brick- red, andgold and silver tinsel. If the latter cannot be readily obtained, gold-coloured and white silk must be substituted, but will not look quite so well. The most striking feature in the design is the impe- rial crown, which holds a central position in one of the Vandykes. The cap is worked with terra cotta or a brick red shade of silk, the leaves surrounding it, with gold, the band at the base with gold, and the precious stones that are set within it with' red and pale blue, the centre one being blue. The arches forming the domed top of the crown are worked with white or silver, the raised ornamentation on them being gold and silver, and the reverse or inner side, where it is seen, pale blue ; and the ball and cross at the top are worked, respectively, with gold and silver. The date 1887 is traced out with silver and the monogram is in gold. Surrounding the crown can be traced a leaf-like scroll which is prolonged in a variety of elegant curves to the base of the crown, where it ends somewhat abruptly in three circular devices. The whole of this scroll is filled in closely with pale blue, reliev-ed by silver tinsel, which breaks the uniformity of the one shade of colour, and forms a rather close, bud- like pattern. A small thickened stem at the base of the scroll is also worked in with silver. Two scroll-like leaves are placed beside the monogram below the main part of the scroll just described and these are also worked with blue. These scrolls are also repeated twice on each of the other Vandykes, but are more prolonged, and terminate in a crown-like cluster of the leafy scroll intermingled with the silver tinsel and bound across with a tie of gold. The heraldic birds which are the main feature of the alternate Vandykes are a particularly happy admixture of colour, introducing, as they do, a pleasant repetition of the effective tone of red that was used for the cap of the crown. The birds' heads and wings are of this red, the necks, breasts, and tails are gold, while silver is introduced on the necks and wings. The extreme edges of the mantel-border are i intended to be followed out with lines of silver tinsel, and so is it at Vol. II— No. 22. the bottom or vandyked edge. In the centre of every other point, the silver border is carried up and finished as a graceful scroll, bearing the words " God save our Queen." A "tie" of gold similar to that on the other Vandykes is carried across the silver at the point where the two bands of silver meet. A gold bullion fringe would be most appropriate as a finish to this border, indeed ma- terials such as are usually used for church embroidery would give the best results if e.xpense is no object. If the design is to be carried out in appliqu(5 on velvet, the same colours should be used, and the various devices cut out in satin, which must oe "laid" on the velvet, tacked into place and secured with a few stitches. The edges should be followed and finished off with a very fine cord. The crovra in this case should be wadded slightly, in order to raise it rather above the foundation, and to render the design more satisfactory the birds also must be wadded. The design would serve well for a smallbracket just as it is, and when the Jubilee year is over, the letters and figures need only be omitted and their place taken by scroll-work. SUBSCRIPTION FORM FOK MRS. LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET. NOTICE. Sahaeribers ncable to procure the above from their Newsagent can have it forwarded direct from the Publisher for Twelve months, post fret for Thirty Stamps. To the Pdblisheb, Please to forward me MRS. LEACH'S F.A-isrc"2" -';Ar O 12. lEC - B J^ S tk: E T For Twelve ifonths, addressed to Mrs 2s. 6d. cnchscdj^Commince loith Ko. for US' This Subscription entilles you to any Extra Nos. 177 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Art Needlework. In spite of the Exhibition of Needlework lately, there is little that may be termed quite new in Art Work ; the only difference is the materials on which a great deal of Art Needlework proper is worked. At Miss Tucketi's show of lovely things, on view a few weeks ago, painting was largely employed with great effect, espe- cially when oil paints were used on plush or velveteen. Linen would be the easiest material next to satin, but the velvet gives a soft appearance. The secret of Art Needlework is exercising one's own judgment as regards blending the colours, and forming the stitches so that the shading falls in nicely. For that reason shaded silks work in much better than a needleful of many shades, espe- cially when crewel embroidery is employed. Take, for example, • our illustration, fig. i, worked in shaded brown to golden, and pink to ruby, on peacock blue of a dark tone. The centres are done in French knots, made by bringing the needle forward, twisting the silk once round it, then drawing through a tiny bit above from where you brought the needle forward. To get it exactly, it is best to ask at a fancy shop to be shown, as the difficulty is to prevent it getting in a perfect knot, instead of a pretty raised stitch. The open flower of Fig. i, is in shaded brown and fawn, the smaller in tulip pink, and shaded pink to ruby. It would be best to work in the one colour — fawn — first, then the shaded, and a few stitches of very dark brown for outlining where it is darkest. The centre of open flower should be filled in with shaded pink and brown knots. Gold tinsel cord, lid. per ball, is even more effective for the outline than dark silk, also for the veins of the leaves. The dark marks are to represent short stitches here and there. The stalks are worked over in satin stitch with o'.ive green. It can be easily enl.arged, either as it is or by adding another flower and a few leaves. Our model measured seven and a half inches for the open flower, three and a half inches the bud, five inches the largest leaves, and two and a half and one inch the smaller. The pattern formed the centre of a sofa cushion, and was worked in peacock blue art serge, with a puffing of dark sage green. The border we r have represented is worked in three shades of yellow for the . flowers, the darkest tone to be used where the shading is in illus- itration. It is very simple, being merely straight stitches, and if floss silk be used has all the appearance of Indian embroidery. The leaves should be formed with shaded green silk, if that kind is used for the flowers, otherwise floss of a rather lighter shade should be employed. Done on a deep shade of heliotrope cashmere the effect is purely oriental. Very dark olive green may be used for the foundation with equal effect. The whole may be outlined with gold winsel cord if liked. A knot in that case should be made in the centre of the flowers. It forms a most elegant border for a table- cover, or the centre of antimacassar, or mantel board mounted on a darker shade than that which is employed for working on. If heliotrope be used, the mounting should be of deep olive green velvet ; if green, old gold satin wii! show it up well, with thick .178 furniture lace over it. An exceedingly pretty perambulator cover was done with an arrangement of flowers and leaves appliqued on, formed out of coloured satin, veining and edging with crewel wools of the same colours. The appliqu6 was a wreath, with the monogram composed ot gold cord in the centre. Two boughs of oak with the acorns would be easy and effective. The leaves could be cut out in green satin or sateen, veined with darker crewel wool, the cups of brown cloth, and the nuts of greenish yellow satin. The stalks would show up done in crewels over cord. Lace work seems to be struggling to the front, although so few have the patience to imitate it satisfactorily. Doubtless it is owing to the distress in Ireland. It is a pity such industry there or nearer home should not be encou- raged. In Bedford and Buck- ingham the trade is fearfully depressed. Machine lace has ousted real hand -made. The Bedfordshire point is very lovely, being woven on a net ground, and can be had for about is. a. yard. The Maltese is an exact imitation of the foreign make, and is from 4d. to a is. Hand- kerchief borders about 3^-. 6d. A correspondent inquired where she could procure some ; at the time we were unable to inform her. We have since heard that by writing to Mrs. Foster, Wootton Vicarage, Bedford, THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. full particulars will be given as to price, and patterns sent. The coarse furniture lace outlined with gold cord and laid over ruby satin is quite new, and forms a most attractive mantel border. Speaking of mantel boards reminds us, the board, instead of being co\ered in the old way, is painted with Aspinall's enamel in a con- trasting colour to the valance, or the same tone. It has this advantage, it does not hold the dust like cloth or velvet. Little mats, trimmed round with tinsel fringe or tinted lace, come in beautifully to stand the ornaments, &c., on. When this style is followed the curtains should be also tinted. Stansfield's powder is the best, 4.J(/. per packet, one of which will be sufficient for two pairs of curtains, and these look much better so treated, last fresh looking longer, and harmonise better with art needlework, colours, and furniture. Hints on Home Decoration. FIG. I. The sunshine, which has been so shy of late, causes us to think oi the many pretty articles to brighten up our rooms. The new fire- place screens are very charming, and our illustration represents one which would cost ys. 6d. at the shops, but which can be made at home for considerably less. The foundation was of stout cardboard, or thin wood would 'do, covered with black enamel paint, and a broad band of gold paper. The basket of rustic work, so familiar to us in flower stands, hanging baskets, tables for garden, &c., only showed one side, so if you bought one you could cut it in half, thus making it serve for two screens. This half basket was filled with moss and artificial flowers, grass, and a spray of caladium leaves, after being stuck firmly to the foundation. On each side of the screen could be placed an art pot, like Fig. 2, with an imitation palm, fern, or caladium, the large leaves of which are most true to nature. The useful little articles in perforated cardboard, which looks like embossed leather, find great favour with ladies, for they are so cheap, quickly made, and most effective when worked. The letter rack, Fig 3, is a nice useful size. the pocket being about a quarter of a yard, and takes a letter opened. That is to say, the flap is a little larger than a sheet of notepaper. The price is 6Jd. Fig. 4 is longer, and docs not hide the letters ; they are placed on it in their envelopes. A crown FIG. 3. was v/orked in cross-stitch on each little flap, and the whole mounted on ruby plush which had been securely glued to cardboard. News- paper receptacles are the same shape as Fig. 3, but, of course, much larger. These should be lined with sateen or satin of a bright shade to show up the pattern of the rack A spray of flowers can be worked in crewel stitch, and look exceed ingly pretty. We saw one with f§i roses — wild ones — and the lining of pale blue. These articles, and many others in the same style of work, can be bought at most fancy shops or drapers, and many news- vendors sell them. Fire-screens are also made, which, with a bunch of coloured grass or flowers in half of a wicker- work basket — the other kind would be too thick — make pretty orna- ments for the empty grate. In summer, the frames of look- ing-glasses are frequently covered up with paper, but it is so very old- fashioned and suggestive of lodging- houses that it is best to leave them as they are, and keep the frame clean. If it is shabby, enamel paint can be used with good result, either black and gold or a colour to har- monise with the hangings, paper, &c. A few shelves each side could be made by any carpenter, on which china can be placed, or three brackets, costing about 4|d. each, could be treated to a coat of As- pinall's black enamel and a line or two of gold. A very dark terra-cotta FIG. 4. brown, called Aspinall's Arabian brown, looks exceedingly wgU for frames of looking-glasses, but if it is not desired to paint them, covering with plush has a very smart appearance for a drawing-room. Sage green serge is a most useful colour for a drawing-room, as it shows up the many bright little ornaments we love to have about us. For instance, the couch of sage green with pretty cushions and antimacassars, say, composed of Tussore silk on which is worked a spray of daffodils and trimmed round with wide coffee-tinted lace. Wicker chairs, enamelled bronze and gold, with cushions of bright cretonne ; a few small chairs ornamented with pretty coffee- tinted lace tied on the back with yellow ribbon ; gipsy tables, one 179 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. covered with sage green and festooned drapery, the other, crimson velvet and tapestry border ; a wicker flower stand ; work table fes- tooned with sage green and ball fringe ; ^piano placed in one corner and either a pretty cover edged with coffee-tinted lace or yellow art pots filled with imitation or real flowers — if not the latter, ferns or caladiums are the best, being truest to nature. Curtains should be of sage green and Madras muslin tied back with yellow ribbon bands. If a mantel board is liked — and it is a great finish to a room — the valance should be of serge, with a border of plush a shade darker, and edged with ball fringe of various colours. Peacock blue looks well, too ; but the old-fashioned green and red suites are no longer seen in drawing-rooms. Certainly we have an advantage in it, for it does not cost so much to make a room pretty now as it did when ;^20 or ^30 had to be paid for six chairs, sofa, and two arm-chairs. Now, odd chairs and various little tables, flower-stands,. &c., have taken their place at considerably less expense ; and if, perhaps, they are not substantial enough to be handed down to the next generation, no matter, fashion changes quickly now, both as regards iurnishing and dress. The figured Madras muslin, so much used now, is very cheap, and the red pattern washes well, but, of course, snda must not be used. As for cretonnes, it is surprising where the ^ iferent patterns and colours come from. For 8|d. now a cre- tonne can be bought equal to that which used to be sold (or double the price. Wall papers, again, are now perfect works of art, and one of the chief things to be considered. The whole arrangement of the fireplace is very diflerent now to what it was some years ago. The new registered stoves, with barred grate set well back, and china tiles on either side, gives an essentially modern appearance, and harmonises well with the fashionable surroundings. Many of the new houses have them fixed, but they are not very expensive if this is not the case. There is a perfect craze just now for all things Oriental, and for hangings or antimacassars, certainly the designs, well intermixed with tinsel, are most effective. Crocheted antimacassars should be tinted with Stansfeld's No. 2 powder, and tied on the backs of the chairs with ribbon harmonising with the furniture. Charming novelties in curtains are now shown — the Indian, printed in colours, only 7s. 6d. per pair, are fifty-four inches wide and three and a half yards long. New crepe and Madras muslin in all the fashionable art shades are equally cheap. New carpets we have seen are in most useful colours and sizes. We saw some old English carpets, bordered, seamless, and fringed, nine feet by six feet, only 17s., and •large one, twelve feet by ten feet six inches, for £2. Rugs to •■, atch are equally cheap. For hard wear, especially where little iV-'it are pattering about, nothing can be better than tliese carpets. Palm fans, id. each, are greatly used for wall pockets, screens, and for general effect over pictures, glass, &c. They are decorated for the latter purposes in various ways, but the latest is to stick Japanese insects over them, looking as if they were alive. We cer- tainly think flowers are the prettiest, but insects is the latest craze. There are numerous ways of making wall pockets with them. A large one requires two fans, which are joined at the top parts, thus forming the pocket. The handle of one fan is cut away, and it is shaped out in heart shape. The other handle goes upwards, and has a bow of ribbon. The fan is covered with silk or lines of tinsel cord. The outer flap is lined with silk or sateen, and covered with a piece of silk on which a design has been worked. A ball fringe should outline the pocket. One fan can be lined with silk and merely folded round until the two side edges meet, then sewn firmly, a bow at the handle, and join completes the pocket or tidy. The large flower-pots are much cheaper than they were — a good size one in all the art colours can be bought for about is. 6d. The new blue is very pretty. Market bouquets of dried grasses of various colours are very useful for decoration, as the dust is easily shaken out, and the freshness is retained a considerable length of time. HANGING BASKET. A very unique and pretty hanging basket can be made out of a bright coloured square silk handkerchief Mark a circle of about a foot in diameter in the centre of the square. Make a running round the circle large enough to take a piece of wrapped wire, run the wire through the running and draw it close, fastening it into around about 8 inches diameter, or close enough to make a fairly deep bas- ket; now fasten a number of ribbon loops at intervals, long enough to suspend the basket from any point you wish ; about a yard long is a good length for the ribbons, and this gives you a loop \ a yard in length. There should be about 8 loops of rather narrow ribbon fastened to the basket at regular intervals. When completed it •forms a very pretty resting place for a spray or bouquet of artificial roses, or other flowers. The model was a cream white handker- chief, with blue ribbons and pale pink roses. Any chintz of pretty patterns, especially of the Japanese or Indian styles of pattern, s-ch 180 as you get on shawls, &c., is very suitable and inexpensive. The corners which fall over would be lined with crimson, which would form a pretty bed for the green leaves and the cream or pink roses, Knitting. COUNTERPANE SQUARE. Materials : —coarse white knitting cotton, and 2 steel needles, 12 Bell Gauge. Begin with i stitch. 1st row — make i, knit i. Snd row — make i and knit 2. 3rd row — make I, knit I, make i, knit i make i, knit i. 4th. row — make i, knit i, purl 3, knit 2. 5th row — make i, purl 2, make i, knit 3, make i, purl 2. 6th row — make I, knit 2, purl 5, knit 3. 7th row — make i, purl 3, make I, knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the 2 knitted together, knit I, make i, purl 3. 8th row — make I, knit 3, purl 5, knit 4. 9th row — make i, purl 4, make I, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 4. 10th row— make i,knit 4, purl 5, knit 5. 11th row — make l, purl 5, make I, knit I, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped i over, knit i, make I, purl 5. 12th row — make I, knit 5, purl 5, knit 6. 13th row — make i, purl 6, make i and knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over, knit I, make I, purl 6. 14th row — make I, knit 6, purl 5, knit 7. 15th row — make i, purl 7, make I, knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slipped i over, knit 1, make i, purl 7. 16th row — make i, knit 7, purl 5, knit 8. 17th row — make I, purl 8, make I, knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit i, make i and purls. 18th row — make i, knit 8, purl 5, knit 9. 19th row — make I, purl 9, knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over, knit I, purl 9. 20th row — make I, knit 9, purl 3, knit lo. 21st row — make i, purl 10, knit 3 together, purl 10. 22nd row— make i, purl to the end. 23rd row — make i and knit to the end. 24th row — make i, and purl to the end. 25th row^make i, and purl to the end like 24th row. 26th row^make 1, and purl to the end. 27th row— make i, and purl to end of row. 28th row — make i, and purl to the end. 29th row — make i, and knit to end of row. 30th row -^make i, and purl to end. 31st roVsr— make I, * purl i, slip l as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to the end of row. 32nd row — ^^make i, and purl to end of the row. 33rd row— make I, * puil i, shp I as if for purling, keeping the THE FANCY WORJKL-BASKET, cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of the row. 34th row — make i, and purl to end of the row. 35th row— make i, * purl I, shp I as if for purling, keeping cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of the row. 36th row — make i, and purl to end of the row. 37th row — make I, * purl i, slip I as if for purling, keeping cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of the row. 38th row — make i, and put 1 to end of the row. 39th row— make i, * purl I, slip I as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of work; repeat from * to the end of row. 40th row — make i, and purl to end of row. 41st row— make I, * purl i, slip l as if for purling, keeping cotton m front of work ; repeat from * to end of row. 42nd row — make r, and purl to end of row. 43rd row — make i, and knit to end of row. 44th row — make i, and purl to end of row. 45th row — make i, purl to end of row. 46th row — make i, purl to end of row. 47th row — make I, purl to end of row. 48th row — make i, and purl to the end of row. 49th row — make i, knit to end of row. 50th row — make i, purl to end of row. 51st row — make i, purl 2, * make i, knit i, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, purl to end of row. 52nd row — make i, knit 3, * purl 3, knit 4, and repeat from * 9 times more, end row by knitting 3. 53rd row — make i, purl 3, * make l, knit 3, make l, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 4. 54th row — make I, knit 4, *purl 5, knit 4, and repeat from * 9 times more, knit 4. 55th row — make I, purl 4, * make I, knit i, slip r, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over the 2 that are knitted together, knit i, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end with purl 5. 56th row — make I, knit 5, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 5. 57th row — make i, purl 5, * make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together, knit i, make l, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 6. 58th row— make I, knit 6, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end the row by knitting 6. 59th row — make i, purl 6, * make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slipped i over, knit i, make i, purl 4, and repeat from * 9 times more, end row by purling 7. 60th row — make I, knit 7, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end row by knitting 7. 61st row — make i, purl 7, * make I, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 8. 62nd row — make i, knit 8, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 8. 63rd row — make i, purl 8, * make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slipped one over, knit l, make I, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end row by purling 9. 64th row — make i, knit 9,* purl 5, knit 4, and repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 9. 65th row — make i, purl 9, * make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped one over, knit i, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 10. 66th row— make I, knit 10, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 10. 67th row- make I, purl 10, * knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit i, purl 4, and repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling. 68th row — make l, knit 11,* purl 3, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end row by knitting 11. 69th row — make I, purl 1 1, * slip I, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over, purl 4 ; repeat from *-9 times more, end row by purling 12. 70th row — make i, and purl to end of row. 71st row— make i, and knit to end of row. 72nd row — make i, and purl to end of row. 73rd row — make i, and purl to end of row. 74th row — make i, and purl 10 end of row. 75th row — make l, and purl to end of row. 7eth row— make i, and purl to end of row. 77th row — make i, and knit to end of row. 78th row— make i, and purl to end of rov/. 79th row — make I, * purl i, slip i as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 80lh row— -make i, and purl to end of row. 81st row — make i, * purl I, slip I as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 82nd row — make l, and purl to end of row. 83rd row — make i, * purl i, slip I as if fur purlin;.:, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 84th row — make i, and purl to the end of row. 85th row — make i, * purl I, slip i as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 86th row — make I, and purl to the end of row. 87th row — make i, * purl r, slip 1 as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of the row. 88th row — make i, and purl to end r.f the row. 89th row— make i,*purl I, slip i as if for purling, keep- ing the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to the end of tow. 90th row — make l, and purl to the end of the row. 91st row — make I, and knit to end of the row. 92nd row — make i, and puil to end of the row. 93rd row — make i , and purl to end of the row. 94th row — make I, and purl to end of the row. 95th row — make I, and purl to end of the row. 96th row — make i, and purl to end of row. 97th row— make I, and knit to end of row. 98th roiv - make i, and purl to end of the row. 99th row — make i, purl 4, * make l, knit r, make i, purl 4, and repeat from * iS times more, purl to end of the row, should be 4 stitches. 100th row— make 1, knit 4, * purl 3, knit 4, and repeat from * 18 times more, end by knitting the other stitches. 101st row— make i, purl 5, * make 1, knit 3, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end l:)y purl- ing 5. 102nd row — make i, knit 5, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end by knitting 6. 103rd row — make i, purl 6, * make l, knit I, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 that are knitted together, knit i, make I, purl 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end by purling 6. 104th row— make i, knit 6, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end by knitting 7. 105th row — make i, purl 7, * make i, knit l, slip l, knit 2 together, and pass the slipped one over the 2 knitted together, ki.it i, make 1, purl 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end by purling 7. 106th row — make i, and knit 7, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, and end by knitting 8. 107th row — make I, purl S, * make I, knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitcli over the 2 together, knit i, make i, purl 4, and repeat from * iS times more, end the row by purling 8. 108th row — knit 2 together, knit 6, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end by knitting 9, this row begins the decrease of the square. 109th row — purl 2 together, purl 7, * make i, knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit I, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * ]8 times more, end by purling 7. 110th row — knit 3 together, knit 5, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end by knitting 8. 111th row — purl 2 together, purl 6, * m-ike 1, knit i, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit i, and make I, purl 4; repeat irom * 18 times more, end by purling 6. 112th row — knit 2 together, knit 4, * purl 5, knit 4, and repeat from "*■ 18 times more, end by knitting 7. 113th row — purl 2 together, purl 5, * make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit i, make l, purl 4; repeat from * 18 times more, end by purling 5. 114th row — knit 2 together, knit 3, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end by knitting 6. 115th row — purl 2 together, purl 4, * knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit J, purl 4 ; repeat from * iS times more, end by purling 4. 116th row— knit 2 together, knit 2, * purl 3, knit 4 ; repeat from * 18 times more, end by knitting 5. Il7th row — purl 2 together, purl 3, * slip i, knit 2 together, pass the sUpped stitch over, purl 4 ; repeat from * iS times more, end by purling 3. 118th row— knit 2 together, and purl to end of row. 119th row — knit 2 together, and knit to end of the row. 120th row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of the row. 121st row — puil 2 together, and purl to end of the row. 122nd row — purl 2 to- gether, and purl to end of row. 123rd row— purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. ]24th row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 125th row— knit 2 together, and knit to end of ro\v-. 126th row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 127th row — knit 2 together, * purl i, slip i, as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 128th row — purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 129th row — knit 2 together, * purl I, slip I as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 130th row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 131st row— knit 2 together, * purl i, rfip I as if for purling, keeping the cotton in fiont of the work ; repeat 181 THE FAi;CY r.'ORK-BASKET. from ■»■ to end of row. 132nd row— purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 133rd row — knit 2 together, * purl i, slip i as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of the row. 134th row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 135tli row — knit 2 together, * purl i, slip i as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 136th row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 137tli row — knit 2 together, * purl i, slip i as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of the row. ISSth row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 139tli row — knit 2 together, and knit to end of row. 140tli row— purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 141st row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 142nd row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 143rd row— purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 144th. row— purl 2 to- gether, and purl to end of row. 145th row— knit 2 together, and knit to end of row. 146th row— purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 147th row — knit 2 together, purl lo, * make i, knit i, make I, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 11. 148th row — knit 2 together, knit 9, * purl 3, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end row by knitting i r. 149th row— purl 2 together, purl 9, * make i, knit 3, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 10. 150th row— knit 2 together, knit 8, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 10. 151st row— knit 2 together, purl 8, * make I, knit r, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 9. 152nd row— knit 2 together, knit 7, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 9. 153rd row— knit 2 together, purl 7, * make i, knit I, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling S. 154th row — knit 2 together, knit 6, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 8. 155th row — purl 2 together, purl 6, * make i, knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit I, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 7. 156th row — knit 2 together, knit 5, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 7. _ 157th row — purl 2 together, purl 5, * make i, knit i, slip i, knit 3 together, pass slip stitch over, knit I, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 6. 158th row— knit 2 to- gether, knit 4, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from 9 times more, end by knitting 6. 159th row— purl 2 together, purl 4, * make i, knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 5. 160th row — knit 2 together, knit 3, * purl 5, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 5. 161st row — purl 2 together, purl 3, * make i, knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 4. 162nd row — knit 2 together, knit 2, * purl 5, knit 4; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 4, 163rd row — purl 2 together, purl 2, * knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, purl 4 ; repeat from *■ 9 times more, end by purling 3. 164th row — knit 2 together, knit I, * purl 3, knit 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by knitting 3. 165th row— purl 2 together, purl i, * slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, purl 4 ; repeat from * 9 times more, end by purling 2. 166th row— knit 2 together, and purl to end of row. 167th row — knit 2 together, and knit to end of row. 168th. row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 169th row — purl 2 to- gether, purl to end of row. 170th. row— purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 171st row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 172nd row— purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 173rd row — knit 2 together, and knit to end of row. 174th. row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 175th row— knit 2 together, * purl I, slip I as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 176th row— purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 177th row— knit 2 together, * purl i, slip i as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 178th row — purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 179th row— knit 2 together, * purl r, slip i as if for purling, keep- ing the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 180th row— purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 181st row — knit 2 together, * purl i, slip I as if for purling, keeping cotton in front ot the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 182nd row — purl 2 to- gether, and purl to end of row. 183rd row — knit 2 together, * purl I, slip I as if for purling, keeping cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end ot row. 184th row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 185th row — knit 2 together, * purl i, slip i as if for purling, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of row. 186th row— purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 187th row— knit 2 together, and knit to end of row. 188th row— purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 189th row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 190th row— purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 191st row — purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 192nd row— purl 2 together, purl to end of row. 193rd row 182 — knit 2 together, knit to end of row. 194th. row — purl 2 together, and purl to end of row. 195th. row— knit 2 together, purl 9, make I, knit I, make i, purl 9. 196tli row — knit 2 together, knit 7, purl 3, knit 10. 197th. row — purl 2 together, purl 8, make i, knit 3, make i, purl 8. 198th row — knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 5, knit 9. 199th. row — knit 2 together, purl 7, make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, and pass slip stitch over, knit I, make i, purl 7. 200th row — knit 2 together, knit 5, purl 5, knit 8. 201st row— knit 2 to- gether, purl 6, make i, knit I, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit I, make i, purl 6. 202nd row — knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 5, knit 7. 203rd row — purl 2 together, purl 5, make i, knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 5. 204th. row — knit 2 together, knit 3, purl 5, knit 6. 205tli row — purl 2 together, purl 4, make i, knit i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 4. 206th row — knit 2 to- gether, knit 2, purl 5, knit 5. 207th. row — purl 2 together, purl 3, make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 3. 208th row — knit 2 together, knit i, purl 5, knit 4. 209th row — purl 2 together, purl 2, make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, make i, purl 2. 210th row — knit 2 together, purl 5, knit 3. 211th row — purl 2 together, purl I, knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, knit i, purl i. 212th row — knit i, purl 3, knit 2. 213th row — knit 2 together, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, purl i. 214th row — knit 2 together, knit i. 215th row — knit 2 together. This finishes the square. These squares must be sewn together with great care, causing the different portions to match each other, it will then form a very handsome design. If these were worked in wool of various colours, or shades used for the different stripes in the pattern, it would add greatly to the beauty of the quilt. BORDER FOR COUNTERPANE. Coarse white knitting cotton and 2 steel needles, 12, Bell Gauge. Cast on 32 stitches. 1st row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit to the end of the row. 2nd row— purl 29, make i, knit 2 together,' knit I. 3rd row— knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit to the end of row. 4th row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 5th row— knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 4,* make I, knit I, make i, purl 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more. 6th row — knit 5, * purl 3, knit 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 7th row- knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 4, * make i, knit 3, make i, purl 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more. 8th row — knit 5, * purl 5, knit 5 ;repeat from * 3 times more, make i, knit 2 together, knit I. 9th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, purl 4,* make I, knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over the 2 just knitted together, knit i, make I, purl 5; repeat from * 3 times more. 10th row— knit 5, * purl 5, knit 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 11th row— knit 2, make I, knit 2 toge- ther, purl 4, * make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 just knitted together, knit i, rnake i, purl 5; repeat from * 3 times more. 12th row — knit 5, * purl 5, knit 5; repeat from * 3 times more, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 13th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 4, * make i, knit 1, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 just knitted, knit i. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. make i, purl 5 ; repeat from* 3 times more. 14th row — knit 5, * purl 5, knit 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, knit I. 15tlx row— knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 4, * make i, knit 1, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 just knitted together, knit I, make i, purl 5, and repeat from * 3 times more. 16th row— knit 5, * purl 5, knit 5, and repeat from * 3 times more, make I, knit 2 together, knit i. 17th row— knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 4,* make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 to- gether, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 just knitted together, knit I, make i, purl 5 ; repeat from *3 times more. 18th row — knit 5, * purl 5, knit 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more, make I, knit 2 toge- ther, knit I. 19th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 4, * make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 just knitted, knit i, make i, purl 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more. 20th row— knit 5, * purl 5, knit 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 21st row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 4, * knit 1, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 just knitted together, knit i, purl 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more. 22iid row — knit 5, * purl 3, knit 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 23rd row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 4,* slip i,knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 just knitted together, purl 5, repeat from * 3 times more. 24th row — knit 5, * purl i, knit 5 ; repeat from * 3 times more, make i, knit 2 together, knit 1. 25th row — knit 2, make l, knit 2 together, knit to end of row. 26th row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 27th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, purl till end of row. 28th row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 29th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl to end of row. 30th row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 31st row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit to end of row. 32nd row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit I. 33rd row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, * purl i, slip i as if for purling, keeping the cotton at the tront of the work; repeat from * to end of the row. 34th row — purl 29, make i,knit 2 together, knit I. 35th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, * slip i as if for purling, purl i, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to the end of row. 36th row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, knit I. 37th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, * purl I, slip I as if for purling, keeping the cotton at front of work ; repeat from * to end of row. 38th row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit I. 39th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, * slip i as if for purling, purl i, keeping the cotton in front of the wort; repeat from * to the end of the row. 40th row — purl 29, make I, knit 2 together, knit l. 41st row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together,* purl I, slip I as if for purling, keeping the cotton at the front of the work ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 42nd row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit 1. 43rd row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, * slip 1 as for purling, purl I, keeping the cotton in front of the work ; repeat from * to end of the row. 44th row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit I. 45th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit to the end of the row. 46th row — purl 29, make I, knit 2 together, knit i. 47th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, purl 28. 48th row— purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 49th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 28. 50th row — purl 29, make 1, knit 2 together, knit I. 51st row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, knit to end of row. 52nd row — purl 29, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. Knitted edge fm- the harder of guilt, to be worked separately and SoW/i on icith care. 1st row— cast on 17, and knit i plain row. 2nd row — slip i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 to- gether, knit I, make 1, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 3rd row— make i, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 9, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2. 4th row— slip I, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit I. 5th row — make i, knit 2 to- gether, knit I, purl i, knit 10, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 6th row — slip I, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit I. 7th row — make i, knit 2 together, knit i, purl I, knit 11, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 8th row— slip i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 4, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 to- gether, knit I. 9th row make i, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 12, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 10th row— slip i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit I. 11th row— make i, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 13, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 12th row— slip i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 6, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 to- gether, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit i. 13th row— make i, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I, knit 14, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 14th row- slip i, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit 7, make i, knit 2 together, make i,knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit i. 15th row — make l, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 15, make I, knit 2 together, knit 2. 16th row — slip i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, knit 8, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit i. 17th row — make I, knit 2 together, knit j, purl i, knit 16, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, knit 2. 18th row — slip i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 19th row — make I, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 15, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 20th row — slip I, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, mfke i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 21st row — make l, knit 2 together, knit I, purl i, knit 14. make I, knit 2 together, knit 2. 22nd row — slip I, knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 to- gether, make l, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 23rd row — make i, knit 2 toge- ther, knit I, purl I, knit 13, make I, knit 2 together, knit 2. 24th row — slip 7, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make r, knit 2 to- gether, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 25th row— make I, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit 12, make I, knit 2 together, knit 2. 26th row — slip 1, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i,knit 2 together, make l, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 27th row — make i, knit 2 together, knit i, purl i, knit ir, make I, knit 2 together, knit 2. 28th row— slip i,knit 3, make I, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 29th row— make i, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I, knit 10, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 30th row — slip I, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make l, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together. 31st row — make I, knit 2 together, knit I, purl I, knit 9, make l,knit 2 together, knit 2. Now return to the 2nd row and repeat for length required, frilling border and lace a little to turn the corners. patter:^ for shawls, &c. This pattern is suitable for shawls, pincushions, quilts, or any- thing for which a light knitting pattern is required. It can be knit round and round as in a stocking by knitting instead of purling every alternate row. 1 8 stitches will be required for each complete pattern. For a pincushion, measuring about 5j inches square, cast on 50 stitches with No. 16 needles, and No. i6j W. Evans & Co.'s crochet cotton. Should eciu be preferred to white, use No. 4^ loom thread, which does not lose its colour in washing, and can be obtained from A. E. K., Box 10, P. O., Ballymena, at from 6d. per skein, post free. Should the worker intend to work this pattern for stockings, shawl, &c., we would advise her to knit a piece suitable for a pincushion firs', as once the pattern is familiar, it will be easy to adapt it to any shape or size required. Knit 3 rows. 4th row — knit 4, * thread over needle, knit 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, knit 3, 2 together, thread 183 THE f ANGY WORK-BASKET. over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over Deedle, knit 3 ; repeat from *, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, knit 4. 5th row — knit 4, purl 43, knit 3. 6th row — knit 5, * thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, knit i, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thiead over needle, knit 5 ; repeat from *, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 toge- ther, thread over needle, 2 together, knit 3. 7th row — knit 3, purl 43, knit 4. 8th row — knit 6,* thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, slip i, knit 2 to- g-ether, draw the slipped stitch over, thread over needle, 2 together, tliread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, knit 3, thread over needle, 2 together, knit 2 ; repeat from *, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 to- gether, knit 2. 9th row — knit 2, purl 43, knit 5. 10th row — knit 4, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, * knit 3, thread over needle, 2 toge- ther, thread over needle. 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, knit 3, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle ; repeat from *, knit 4. 11th row^- knit 4, purl 42, knit 4. 12th row — knit 3, 2 together,* thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, knit 5, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, knit i, 2 together; repeat Irom *, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, knit 5. 13th row— knit 5, purl 42, knit 3. 14fch row — knit 2, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, * knit 3, thread over needle, 2 together, knit 2, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, slip I, knit 2 together, draw slipped stitch over, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle ; repeat from *, knit 6. 15th row — knit 5, purl 43, knit 2. Repeat from 4th row till the work is the size desired. Knit 3 rows, and cast off loosely. EDGE — cast on 5 stitches. Knit 2 rows. 3rd row — knit 3, put thread twice over theneedle, knit 2. 4th row — knit 2, (knit i, purl i, knit i, purl I, knit I ), these 5 stitches should be knitted into the 2 threads over the needle in last row, knit 3. 5th row — knit 10. 6th row — purl 7, knit 3. 7th row — knit 3, thread over needle, 3 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, knit i. 8th row — purl 8, knit 3. 9th row — knit 3, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, knit 2. 10th row — purl 9, knit 3. 11th row— knit 3, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, 2 together, thread over needle, knit r. Knit 4 rows. Cast off 8, knit 4, which with the stitch on the other needle will leave 5 stitches altogether as at the beginning. Knit 2 rows. Repeat from 3rd row until the edging is long enough to go round the pincushion, putting it very full at the corners. Sew it on, taking care not to draw your thread too tight. When finished, lay the work wrong side up on a clean cloth, and pin each point of the edge in its place. Lay a damp cloth over it and press with a hot iron. PATTI KNITTING. . ^ Any number divi- sible by four and two over. 1st row — slip I, * knit I, but do not slip the stitch off the needle, wool forward, knit the same stitch, thus making 3 out of I, purl 3 together. Repeat from *, and knit the last stitch. 2nd and all interme- diate rows — purled. 3rd row — slip i, * purl 3 together, knit I, but do not slip it off, wool forward, knit i, all ia I stitch. Re- peat from *, knit the hsit stitch. 5th row— same as the ist. Another way of making the 3 stitches, knit i, but do not slip it off the needle, purl it, and then knit the same. Then slip it off. This is the nicest way and makes itrather more bumpy. Pretty in Shetland or 2-thread Lady Betty wool for c'ouds ; in double. Berlin for couvrettes or perambiilatctr covers. BERCEAUNETTE QUILT. Materials required: — 8 ozs. of coloured double Berlin, 5 ozs. of white ditto, bone pins rather thicker than the wool used. Cast on 16 stitches, knit I plain row. 2nd row -knit the ist stitch, put the right hand pin in the next stitch, then wind the wool twice over fore- finger of left hand, passing it round the pin at the same time, and then knit it in. Do the same in every stitch to end of row, all except the last stitch, which knit plain. Pass the needle through all the loops and pull them straight and firm. Knit 4 plain rows between every row of looped knitting and always knit the 1st and last stitch both in plain rows and looped rows. 22 rows of looped rows make a good size, an I can either be looped on io/k sides or only one. . SILK MITTENS. One of the most useful and comfortable purchases we have made last winter was a pair of perfectly plain black silk mittens, knitted in black knitting silk, such as is used for stockings, and No. 16 or 17 needles. I( you are a tight knitter, use the coarser needles, and if a loose knitter, the finer ones. The knitting when done should be close, but not stiff or hard. Cast on 69 stitches. 1st round — * 2 plain, I purl, and repeat from * to the end of the round. Repeat the 1st round until you have knitted 4 or 5 inches, or as long as you wish the wrist of your mitten. Now knit 4 plain rounds. It is now time to raise for the thumb. Next round, the first of the thumb — mark a stitch with a piece of white cotton, when you come to the marked stitch raise a stitch before knitting the marked stitch, then knit the marked stitch, and then raise another stitch, knit the rest of the round plain. Knit 2 plain rounds. 2nd raising round — knit plain until you come to where you raised a stitch before. Before knitting the stitch which was raised before, raise a stitch, then knit past the second stitch raised in the first thumb round, then raise another stitch, finish the round plainly. Knit 2 plain rounds. 3rd raising round — raise a stitch outside of each of the stitches raised in the previous raising round; thus you have 2 stitches extra between the raisings every time you make another increase. Go on repeating the two plain rounds and increasing every third round until you have raised 22 stitches, slip those 22 on to a thread and leave them. Now go on knitting plainly round and round for about 2i inches, or 40 rounds more. To narrow for the tip. 1st narrowing' — * knit ir, take 2 together, repeat from* until you have narrowed 5 time;; 64 stitches left. Knit 4 plain rounds. 2nd narrowing — ^ knit 6, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round; this leaves you 56 stitches. Knit 3 plain rounds. 8rd narrowing — * knit 5, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round; 48 stitches. Knit 2 plain rounds. 4th nar- rowing — *knit 4, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round ; 40 stitches. Knit i plain round. 5th narrowing^- * knit 3, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round; 32 stitches left. Knit i plain round. 6th narrowing — ■* knit 2, take 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the round; 24 left, Knit-l plain rounds. 7th narrowing—-* knit i, take 2^ together, apd repeat from * to the end of the round; ,16 left. Next round, "**-^^"'^^"™^-~'— ~- THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. knit 2 together all fbund, and cast off as you go on. This gives you 8 stitches in a little toutvd:: Leave that for the present and finish the thumb. Take up your 22 stitches and work round and round for I J inches, or about 28 rounds. Now decrease at the beginning and end of every needle, leaving i stitch between the narrowing and the end of the needle. Knit i plain round. 2nd narrowing— narrow as before at each end of each one of the three needles; this leaves lo stitches. 3rd narrowing— narrow as before at each end of each one of the three needles; this' leaves 4 stitches; draw those over one another until you have only one loop left, then draw your silk through that, or another way can be done. Cut off the end of silk long enough to give you a needleful to work with, then gather the 4 stitches left together by means of an ordinary sewing needle, and run the silk back and forth underneath to make it firm. Now lay your mitten wrong side out flat on the table with the thumb also laid out flat at the side. Then sew your little hole up at the top, making a little flat seam across the top of your fingers. Nov/ turn your mitten right side out, and crochet a little silk scallop round the edge of the wrist. The second mitten is made exactly in the same way. Instead of the little flat seam at the top of the fingers, you can draw the 8 stitches together with silk and fasten off inside the top of the mittens, making it firm. Also if the thumb seems likely to be too long for you, omit the 3rd narrowing, and gather the 10 stitches round by the needle, and fasten firmly inside. This is a splendid mitten for shopping, going to business, driving, or anything in an or- dinary walking line. They are warm, comfortable, and easily pulled off' and on, and have a good appearance. This is medium size, but will fit almost anybody, but for a guide, say a hand to wear from 6j to 7 glove, or even 7J if not very closely knitted. PETTICOAT FOR CHILD OF 7 YEARS. Materials required : g ozs. of petticoat fleecy, any colour pre- ferred, 2 bone needles. No. 7. Cast on 200 stitches. 1st row — plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — plain. 4th row— purl. 5th. row — slip I, knit 2 together. 6th row — purl. 7th row— plain. 8th row — purl. 9th row — plain. 10th row — purl. 11th row — take the cast on stitches on a 3rd needle and join together with a plain row; this makes the hem. 12th and 13th i-ows — purl. 14th row — plain. 15th row — purl. 16th row — * thread forward, purl 2 together. 17th row— plain. Repeat from * till you have 6 I'ows in all. 22nd row— plain. 23rd row — purl. 24th row — plain. 25th row — * i purl, i plain. Repeat from * till you have 16 rows, always being careful not to have 2. purl or 2 plain stitches coming one over the other. 41st row^purl. 42nd row — plain. 43rd row — purl. 44th row — * thread forvvard, purl 2 together. 45th row: — plain. Repeat from* till you have 6 rows. 50th row —plain. 51st row — ^purl. ' 52nd row— plain. 53rd row-^* 4 plain, 2 purl. 54th row— 4 purl, 2 plain. 55th row — 4 plain, 2 purl. 56th row — 4 purl, 2 plain. 57th row — purl. 58th row — plain. Repeat from * till you have i r squares made for the length, decreasing r stitch in each square in the last 10 rows. PETTICOAT IN SCALLOP SHELL PATTERN, YEARS. TO 4 Materials required : — 2 bone needles No. 7, 2i ozs. of white and 2^ ozs. blue Berlin wool. Cast on 154 stitches with blue. 1st row — *knit 2, make i and knit r 7 times, make i, knit 2 ; repeat from * to end of row. 2nd row— purl. 3rd row— knit 2 together, knit 15, knit 2 together; repeat to end. 4th row — purl 2 together, purl 1 3, purl 2 together ; repeat. 5th row — purl 2 together, purl ir, purl 2 together; repeat. 6th row — knit 2 toge- ther, knit 9, knit 2 to- gether ; repeat. 7th row — same as ist. 8tb row — same as 2nd. 9th row— same as 3rd. 10th row — same as 4th. 11th row— same as 5th. 12th row — same as 6th. Commence again at ist row with white, and repeat these 12 rows, making 3 stripes with white and 3 with blue. Now commence the plain part with blue. 1st row — knit. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row— knit. 4th row— purl 19. purl 2 together ; repeat. 5th row— purl. 6th row — knit. Repeat these 6 rows again still with the blue, then repeat the 12 row, with white, then again with blue without decreasing. Now knit 4 rows plain. Next row — make i, knit 2 together ; repeat. Knit 2 plain rows. Cast off. Sew the two ends together, leaving an opening at upper part. Take a bone crochet hook and make a chain about 36 inches long with double wool, thread in holes, and finish off with two tufts of wool at the ends. SLIPPER FOR INFANT. This pretty little slipper is designed for wearing with socks, and made in coral o- pale blue wool is extreniely nice for a baby's wear from 4 to 9 months old. i an oz. of Berlin wool will make a pair, with No. 14 steel needles. If a larger pair are required use No. 12 needles. Cast on 25 stitches. 1st row — knit I, make i in the next stitch by knitting the stitch, but before slipping it off left hand needle, insert the right hand needle into the back, and knit it off in the usual way ; knit plain to end of row. Repeat the ist row 11 times more. You should now have 37 stitches on your needle. 13th row— knit i, knit 2 together, knit plain to end of row. 14th to 24th rows— like the 13th. You have now 25 stitches again. This is for the sole. Cast on 6 stitches for the heel. Knit l row plain. 2nd row— knit i, knit 2 in i as in 1st row of sole; knit plain to end. Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 4 times more. You should now be at the heel and have 36 stitches. Cast off 18 stitches, knit plain to end. Now for toe piece ; work on the other 18 as follows : 1st row — 2 plain, 2 purl, to end. 2nd row — the same as the ist row. 3rd row — 2 purl, 2 plain to end. 4th row — same as the 3rd row. Repeat these 4 rows 5 times more, which completes toe piece. Cast on 1 8 stitches. 1st row — plain. 2nd row— knit i, knit 2 together, plain to end. Repeat these 3 rows 4 times more, when you will have 3: stitches and be at the heel. Cast off. Take a wool needle and thread it with the same wool. Sew up the side of shoe very evenly^ leaving the 6 heel stitches. Sew the heel pieces to the sole, then sew the heel together. Pin the centre of toe piece to point of toe at sole, and nicely gather it in. For strap — cast on 18 stitches, with another needle pick up 5 stitches from heel, 2 each side of join, and i over join. Knit them on to the needle that has the l8 cast on stitches. Then cast on 18 more stitches on the other side of the 5 185 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. picked up ones. Knit 2 plain rows. Srd row — knit plain till within 4 of the end, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together. 4th. row — plain. Cast off. Sew a pearl button on left hand side of strap. Make a tiny bow of narrow ribbon and sew on instep, and this charming shoe is complete. Very dainty shoes could be made with knitting silk in this pattern by casting on more stitches. WRAP FOR HEAD. This useful wrap can be finished off either as an ordi- nary cloud, or as a fascinator for -protecting the head when out at night in evening dress. Our model is entirely white, any other colour will suit. If used as a cloud, both ends are to be finished off with large soft woollen tassels ; if as a fascin- ator, only one tassel is required, the second end being finished off with a pretty bow of ribbon, as in our model. When in use, this bow should be placed on the top of the lady's head, the remainder of the wrap should then be drawn loosely and prettily under the chin and round the neck so as to allow the tassel to fall over the right shoulder. The materials used are two bone knitting needles. No. 7, by Walker's Bell Gauge, and 3-ply Lady Betty wool. Andalusian wool is also suit- able. There are now many beautiful mixtures of silk and wool, which would look ex- tremely pretty for the purpose. To begin. Cast on 100 stitches, knit backwards and forwards until 2 yards are worked. Then * knit 4 stitches, drop i stitch off the left needle, repeat from * to end of row. The dropped stitches form the pretty striped pat- tern in the knitting. Now cast off all across. Make the dropped stitches run down to the beginning of the work. Gather one end of the fascinator to the width of 4 inches, place the two outer edges together, so as to fold the gathers in half. Oversew them firmly together. Now make a bow of any suitable colour in satin ribbon, 2 inches wide. A yard and a half should make it. The bow in the model consists of 8 loops, 2 ends and a keeper ; if one is not handy at making bows, it is a good plan to get it done by a milliner. The expense thus incurred is small, and on the style of the bow the entire appearance of the wrap must depend to a great extent. The end to which the tassel is to be attached must be lightly gathered together, and firmly secured. To make the tassel, take a large ordinary square envelope, and wind the wool round and round it lengthwise until the tassel is thick enough. It should be very thick and soft to look well. Then secure the top of the tassel very strongly with a piece of white piping cord, leaving enough of the cord to fasten the tassel to the gathered end of the fascinator, between which and the top of the tassel an inch of cord should be left. Then twine another piece of the cord round the strands of the tassel about an inch from the top, and fasten strongly. The top of the tassel is to be ornamented as follows : Take a rug needle and a long thread of the wool, make a knot at one end, and secure it to the cord which encircles the tassel an inch from the top. Work over this cord with common blanket stitch. There should be 20 stitches all round the tassel. Continue the next round in the same way, working into the stitches of ist round. Work on until the top oi the tassel is covered with the network thus formed, then twine the wool evenly round the cord at the top of the tassel so as to hide it completely. Fasten off the end of wool. The fascinator is then completed. PATCHWORK MAT. Materials : — Double Berlin wool of any and all colours, J oz. of wool for each separate section ; it takes 6 of the parts to form a pattern, these must be sewn together at the back very neatly. Very handsome bedcovers, &c., can be made in this style. Bone pins. Cast on 37 stitches. Ist row — purl. 2nd row — knit. Srd row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, 186 knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 to- gether, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 to- gether, make I, knit 2. 4tli row — knit. Sfh row — knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6. 6th. row— knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl i, knit 3 together, purl I, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 7th row— knit 2, make i, knit 2 to- gether, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, knit 4. 8th row — knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 8th, row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit I, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6. 10th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit i, knit 3 together, knit i, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 11th row— knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6. 12th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. ISth row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6. 14th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl i, purl 3 together, purl i, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 15th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6. 16th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 17th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6. 18th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 to- gether, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit i, knit 3 together, knit I, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 19th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6. 20th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 21st row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 to- gether, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6. 22iid row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, purl 3 together, purl i, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 23rd row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2, knit 6. 24th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. 25th row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit i, purl 2, knit 6. 26th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit i, knit 3 together, knit i, purl 2, knit 4. 27th. row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 3, knit 6. 28th. row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 4. 29th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl i, knit 6. 30th row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, purl I, purl j together, purl i, knit 4. 31st row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, knit 7. 32nd row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, purl 3 together, knit 4. 33rd row — knit 2, make I., knit 2 together, knit 5. 34th: row — knit 2, make I, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2. 35th row— knit 2, make i, knit 3 together, knit 3. SStb. row — knit 2, make i, knit 3 together, knit 2. 37th row — knit 2> make i, knit 3 together, knit i. 38th row— knit l,knit 3 together,, aaaaauatfaam THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. knit 1 . 39tli row— knit 3 together, draw the wool through the last loop on the pin. For quilts this can be worked in thick knitting cotton, and without the little border that is added for a mat. STAR. Materials : — double Berlin wool in two colours. Pattern was in blue and fawn. Steel needles No, 14, Bell Gauge. Cast on 6 stitches with the blue wool. 1st row — slip ist stitch and purl the other 5. Snd row— slip ist stitch and knit the other 5. 3rd row — slip 1st stitch and purl 5. 4th. row — sUp ist and knit 5. 5th row — slip ist and purl 5. 6th. row— slip ist and knit 5. 7th. row — slip ist and purl 5. Sth row — slip 1st and knit 5. 9th row — slip Ist and purl 5. 10th. row — slip ist and knit 5. llth row — slip ist and purl 5. 12tli row — slip 1st and knit 5. 13th row — slip ist and purl 5. * Now pick up the first 5 selvedge or side stitches on to a separate needle, take the side where the end of wool hangs down, be sure to insert the needle into the back part of the stitch ; the selvedge stitch next to the cast on stitches is to be left unworked upon. Now take up the same wool and knit a new part, which must have 13 rows ; the 1st row is purled, and there must be 2 stitches worked into the ist of the picked up stitches, i knitted and i purled, so that the new part is equally 6 stitches wide, the ist stitch ot every row must be slipped, repeat from * 8 times more. When the loth part is com- pleted take the selvedge stitches of the left hand side of the same on to a separate needle and cast them off with the cast on stitches of the 1st part, knitting i of each together, fasten off the wool ; then take the 6 selvedge stitches on the right hand of any one of the parts, on a separate needle ; take the fawn wool and work on these stitches, 13 rows backwards and forwards, the ist row is knitted ; when doing this, keep the right side of the work next you in this and in every i following knitted row. Knit the last stitch together with the ist stitch of the next blue part. When 10 such parts are completed each should consist of 13 rows, each one beginning with a knitted row ; take all the stitches and the selvedge stitches of these parts on 4 needles, and knit with these stitches also with fawn wool ; i row knitted ; in this row the 6 selvedge must be narrowed to 3 by taking them together as i stitch, knit the other stitches as usual, then with blue wool knit i round, then purl 2 rounds and cast off. For the centre of the star work, i row of double crochet in the fawn wool and fasten all ends neatly at the back. The small square to unite these stars may be made as follows. With fawn wool cast on 36 stitches, form into a circle, purl a round as follows ; * purl 7 stitches, purl 2 together for 4 times in all, the narrowing is to form the 4 corners, with 7 purl for each side ; now purl a round, taking 2 together at each corner as before, with 6 purl stitches instead of 7 at the side ; care must be taken always to narrow at the same place in every round. Then fasten on the blue wool close to the needle and knit I round ; narrow at each corner, with 5 knit between each as before ; now knit a plain round without any narrowing ; now knit i round, take 3 stitches in i at each of the 4 corners, with 3 between each of the narrowings at the side ; now i round plain without narrow- ing, now I round with taking 2 together at each corner and 2 stitches between ; now I round plain all round, now take 2 together at each of the 4 comers, leaving i between at each side ; the remaining stitches, 8 in number, are cast off all in i stitch ; this is best done with the crochet needle. Draw wool through last loop and fasten ends away, fasten each corner of this square to one of the large stars, and then join the large stars to each other where they touch. This makes a lovely antimacassar in fleecy wool. PENCE JUG. For this pretty jug you will require half an ounce each of scarlet and black Andalusian wool and 5 sleel needles No. 16. Cast on 12 stitches on 1 needle for the spout, and 10 stitches in red on each of the three other needles. 1st round — plain. 2nd round — plain. 3rd round — plain. 4tb round — plain. 5tli round — 2 plain, 2 purl alternately all round till you get to the spout, then I take 2 together, knit 8 plain, take 2 together. Repeat the 5th round 3 times more. 9th round — 2 purl, 2 plain alter- nately till you get to the spout, when take 2 to- gether, knit 8 plain. lOth rovmd — 2 purl, 2 plain. Knit 7 plain for spout, take 2 together. Repeat the 9th and loth rows 3 times more, when the spout is finished. Cast off by knitting the 2 remaining stitches together. You now have 30 stitches on the needles. * Purl 2 rounds, knit 2 rounds. Repeat from * 4 times more. Join on the black and begin the bowl. 1st row — purl 2 in I, purl the rest. 2nd row— purl. Knit 4 rounds in scarlet, knit I round in black, increasing every 4th stitch, purl 2 rounds. Knit 4 rounds in scarlet, knit i round in black, increasing every 6th stitch, purl 2 rounds. Knit 6 rounds in scarlet, knit i round in black, purl 2 rounds black, knit 4 rounds scarlet, knit I round in black, decreasing by knitting the 7th and 8th stitches together. Purl 2 rounds black, knit 4 rounds in scarlet, knit i round black, decreasing by knitting 12th and 13th stitches together. Purl 2 rounds black. There should be 72 stitches. Divide these by 6. Knit 11 rounds in scarlet, decreasing 6 stitches in each round by knitting 2 together at the commencement of each division. This will leave 6 stitches, which draw up with a wool needle and sew together. For the handle, cast on 6 stitches and knit and purl alternately till you have done 3 inches. Cast off and sew to the jug. GENTLEMEN'S WOOL BAND. These knitted bands are highly recommended for gentlemen travelling, &c., as a great preventive of colds, also as a support; they are very easily made, and as they wash well, are most serviceable. For an average size, you will require 2 ozs. of best white merino yam, which should be very soft, 2 bone knitting pins, No. 14, Walker's Bell Gauge. Cast on loosely 160 stitches, and knit 4 plain, 4 purl, to form ribs ; every row is v/orked the same, beginning with plain and ending with purl ; continue working in this way until you have a depth of 12 inches, or more if liked. Cast off loosely ; join the ends together (the band, of course, slips over the head), when this will be found to give nicely to the figure, being ribbed makes it more elastic. This should measure about 29 or 30 inches, so much depends on the worker ; if a large size is required, cast on more stitches. Dolly and A. Collinge. — The mistake in Hexagon is in loth rotuid, which should be purl 7 in each case instead of 6. The 14th round is knit I, purl 5, make I, knit 7, make I, purl 5, knit I ; repeat five times more. A Worker. — We will bear your request for more patchwork in mind. Snap. — We have given several very pretty babies' hoods, and do not quite know the shape you mean. One in point neige was especially pretty. If you will say where the error occurs in No. 11 we will rectify it. Christina Graham. — The rows worked after the heart are openwork, and are in green. Fasten on between a leaf ; 6 chain, picot into 3rd, 6 chain, picot again, 3 chain, double into centre of leaf and repeat. The second row has the doubles worked between the picots of last row. 187 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. 8.: PETTICOAT FOR CHILD OF 3 YEARS. Scallop Pattern. Materials required : — 2 bone needles, No. 7, about ij oz. of blue, and '2^ ozs. of white Berlin wool. Cast on 18 stitches for each pattern. 1st row — knit 3, knit 2 together, make i and knit i 8 times, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3 ; repeat. 2nd row— purl 2, purl 2 together at the bark, purl 16, purl 2 together, purl 2 ; repeat. 3rd row — knit i, knit 2 together, knit 16, knit 2 together at the back, knit i ; repeat. 4tli row — purl 2 together at the back, purl 16, purl 2 together ; repeat. 5th row— same as the ist. 6th. row — same as the 2nd. 7tli row — same as the 3rd. Stir row — same as the 4th. 9th row— same as the 5th. lOth row— same as the 6th. 11th. row — same as the 7th. 12th. row— same as the 8th. Now join on the white, and repeat these 12 rows, then again with blue, then with white alternately until there are 3 blue and 2 white stripes. Now commence the plain part. 1st row — knit 20, knit 2 together ; repeat. 2nd row — plain. 3rd row— purl ; repeat these 2 last rows until there are 36 rows. Next row — knit 10, knit 2 together ; repeat. Next 6 rows plain ; next row knit i, make i, knit 2 together ; repeat. Knit 2 rows plain. Now cast off, then sew the 2 ends together, leaving an opening at upper part. Now take a bone crochet hook, and make a chain about 36 inches long, with double wool, thread in holes, and finish off with 2 tufts of wool at the ends. JUBILEE BRIOCHE. Cast on an even number of stitches with 2 pins. 1st row — slip the I St stitch, bring the > thread forward, * take I off the next as if you were going to purl, knit the next, thread for- ward ; repeat from * as in ordinary brioche, I knit the last stitch. 2nd row — slip the ist stitch, taking it up as if for purling, thread back, * slip off the next stitch as if for knitting, purl the next and the one crossing il toge ther, thread back ; repeat from * to the last stitch but one, vhich you must purl. 3rd row — slip the ist stitch as if for knitting, thread forward, * slip the next as if for purling, knit the next and the one crossing it together, thread for- 188 ward ; repeat from *. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd row. ilntil you' have the required length. Let the ist stitch of every row always- be slipped, the last either knitted or purled according to the row. If you want to work it more loosely without working on larger pins, this may easily be done by taking the thread twice round the needles, but treating it in the next row as i stitch, slipping the 2nd thread of it off the needle, and only knitting the 1st thread. PINCUSHION. Choose 2 colours or shades in Berlin wool. , Cast on 26 stitches ' on 2 steel pins. No. 12, with the grounding or darker coloured wool. 1st row — knit 3, join on the other wool and knit plain until within 3 stitches of the end. 2nd row —knit plain until within i of the end of the colour, leaving the 3 dark stitches. 3rd row — slip i, and again knit until within I of the end of the colour. 4th row — slip i, and knit to within 2 of the end of the colour. 5tli row — same as 4th. 6th row — slip I, and knit to the very end of the colour. Leave the wool hanging and knit 3 plain rows of the grounding colour,' then purl a row. Knit 2 rows plain, and begin again from the ist row with the lighter wool. Repeat these 2 stripes untilthere are 12 of the light ones on the dark ground ; .cast off and sew up To make it up, draw the twocentres tightly and, finish oft with a round tassel, first filling the cushion with chopped flannel. A quarter of an ounce of each colour will be sufficient wool to make the above article, POINT NONE. Cast on any eiven num- ber of stitches. 1st row — plain, 2nd row — slip the 1st stitch, knit I, but do not slip the stitch off the pin yet, purl into the same, now draw the knitted stitch over the purled stitch, still keeping the stitch on the left hand pin, knit again into this stitch, and draw the last stitch over ; this time let off the stitch from the left pin ; you work 3 into I, and keep drawing them over each other. Next row and every alternate row — plain knitting. Mind that you finish each knot, ' Or you will increase. This- stitch is very pretty in Shet- land or 2-thread Lady Betty wool for clouds ; in double Berlin for couvrettes or perambulator covers. THE FANCY ^VORK-BASKET. SPIDER STITCH. ' Materials ! — An- dalusian woo! and Walker Gauge wood pins, No. I. Cast on in twelves. 1st ro-w — plain knitting. , 2nd row — thread < forward, knit 2 to- gether, * purl 3 to- gether, knit I, purl I, knit I, all into the next stitch, repeat from *, knit the last 2 stitches plain. 3rd row — thread forward, knit 2 together, and purl all the rest of the row. 4th row — thread for- ward, knit 2 to- gether, * knit I, purl I, knit I, all in the same stitch, purl 3 together,, repeat from *, knit the two last stitches plainly. Sth row — thread forward, and knit 2 together, and purl all the rest of the row. Now go back to the 2nd row. This very pretty pattern makes a lovely shawl ; and in Shetland wool is much used for veils. IMITATION CORAL for looping up Infants' Sheves. Materials: 2 skeins of fine woollen braid, in bright scarlet or pale pink, 2 neat gilt snaps, and i pair steel knitting needles. No. 16. This coral is simply knitted in plain stockingstitch, thus : cast on 3 stitches and knit the length required. The work twists of itself; as you proceed, twist it a little more; with the little ends of braid at the commencement and termi- nation of the work thread the snaps, and fasten off with a needle and scarlet cotton. GENTLEMAN'S SOCK. Materials required : — 3 ozs. best heather mixture, old Peacock quality and 4 steel knitting pins. No. 16. Cast on 25 stitches on 2 needles, and 30 on the 3rd, 80 in all. Knit 3 and purl 2 all the way round. Repeat this row till 25 are done. The rest of the sock is knitted plain. The 1st stitch, which is alternately knitted in one row and purled in the next, is the seam stitch, the rest of the row being always knitted plain. Knit 95 rows and then begin the heel. Take 41 stitches for the heel, 20 on each side of the seam stitch. Knit in the usual way for the heel, alternate plain and purl rows, keeping the seam stitch. Knit 24 rows, and then turn the heel. Knit to the seam stitch and knit3 beyond, then knit 2 together, and knit i more, turn back and purl 3 beyond the seam stitch, purl 2 together, and purl I more. Turn back and knit i more beyond, taking 2 together at the gap and 1 beyond. Continue working in this way until all the stitches are worked up. Then pick up the stitches down the heel flap on the left, about 15, work the front stitches and pick up 15 on the other side. Shift the stitches at the back equally on to 2 needles, and decrease for the foot gusset every 3rd row. You must take 2 together at the beginning of the needle on the left of the front needle, a.nd again at the end of the needle on the right. Decrease till you liave 39 stitches on the 2 back needles, then knit round without de- creasing till there are 80 rows in all, counting from the ist row after the heel, that is, the row in which the stitches were picked up from the flap. Then decrease for the toe. Decrease at the beginning and end of the front needle, at the beginning of the one on the left, and the end of the one on the right. Knit 2 rows plain. Decrease in this way every 3rd row till there are 31 stitches left, that is, 17 on the front needle and 17 on the two others. Place the needles to- gether, the two back against the front one, and knit the stitches off together. SEAWEED SPRAY. Materials required : — Andalusian wool and wood knitting needles. No. 2, Walker's Gauge. 1st row — knit i, cotton forward, knit i, knit 2 together, knit i, cotton forward, knit i, cotton forward, knit I, knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together. 2nd row— purl. 3rd row — knit I, cotton forward, knit I, knit, 2 togetlier, knit i, cotton forward, knit 3, cotton forward, knit I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over. 4th row — purl. 5th row— knit 2 together, knit I, knit 2 together, knit i, cotton forward, knit i, cotton forward, knit I. 6th row— purl. 7th row — slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit I, cotton forward, knit 3, cotton forward, knit I, knit 2 together, knit l, cotton forward, knit I. 8th row — all purl ; repeat from ist row. Allow a few plain stitches at begin- ning and end of each row, also a few plain rows before the pattern rows, this keeps the edge even and in good shape. TOWEL. For those who have the time to spare, knitted towels are most inex- pensively and quickly made, as they require no counting and can be taken up, at any odd moment. They look ex- ceedingly well, and will last for years, and are the very best articles for gentlemen's use. To make a good size towel you Avill require i lb. of N o. 4 unbleached cotton, 1 oz. of No 8 for fringe, a little red for stripe, and 2 bone needles. No. 7 or 8. Cast on 150 stitches with the No. 4 cotton. 1st row — slip I, purl i,*knit I, purl I, and repeat from * to end of row. Everyrow is like the 1st row, which makes a small check pattern, as you knit over the purl stitch and purl over the knitted one. Do 30' rows with the unbleached cotton, 2 rows red, 6 unbleached, 2 red, 6 unbleached, 2 red. Now work unbleached till the towel is nearly long enough, when work the alternate red and unbleached to match the other end. Cast ofi". Now work at each end with a bone crochet needle i chain, i double all along. Into these holes work the fringe, and the towel is com- plete. Now Ready, price Sd. WASHING AND LAUNDRY CHECK-BOOK ; By Mrs. LEACH.— Contaiaing How to Wash, Starch and Iron, with valuable-Kecipea; for Cleaning, Dyeing, Ac, and printed Laundry Checks for six months. Of all' NeWsvendor3. Pi-ice 2d., or post free, three staiups, fn)m - ;( R. S; Castwrioht, 8, Johnson's Co\rrt, Fleet Street, London, E.G. 189 THE. FANCY WORK-BASKET. Crochet. SHAWL MANTLE. Materials required: J !b. of pale blue Shetland wool. Commence at the neck, make a chain of 6, unite into a ring. 1st row — turn with 3 chain, 2 treble into the ring, i chain, 6 treble into the same, i chain, 3 more treble into the same. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, 3 treble between ist and 2nd trebles, i chain, 3 trebles between 3rd and 4th trebles, I chain, 6 trebles between 6th and 7th trebles, i chain, 3 trebles between gth and loth trebles, i chain, 3 trebles between nth and 12th trebles. Every row is like the 2nd row, that is, a group of 3 between every group in last row, a group of 6 in the centre, and increasing at beginning and end by working a group of 3 between first 2 and la?t 2 stitches. Repeat this until you have 40 rows. Your shawl will be three-cornered in shape. For the border round bottom. 1st row — turn with 6 chain, I double into middle of 2nd group, 6 chain, miss a group, i double into next, repeat all along. Snd row — turn with 6 chain, i double, into middle of 6 chain of last row, * 8 long treble over the double, double into the middle of 6 chain ; repeat from * all along; at the point and centre work 10 long trebles. 3rd row — 6 chain, double in middle of 8 long trebles, 6 chain, double over double. 4th row — like the 2nd. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows 12 times more, in- creasing at each side by working an extra group in each stitch, also in centre of back. ITtli row— 6 chain, i double into middle of 1st group, 6 chain, 1 double over double, and repeat all along. 18th row — 5 trebles into ist stitch,*4 chain, double over double, 4 chain, 4 treble over next double; repeat from * all along. 19th row — 3 chain to turn, 4 treble between ist and 2nd stitches of last row, 3 chain, i double over double, 3 chain, 5 treble between 4 treble of last row. Repeat the 19th row 6 times more, increasing the chain between every group in each row ; you will have 9 chain each side 190 of doubles in last row. For the fringe — Make a chain of 6, put the hook in the 2nd from needle, 1 double, 2 treble, 2 long treble, 2 treble, i double into the ring, retain the last loop of each on the needle and draw through all at once, make a double into the ring, 6 chain, double into where you started your first 6 chain, 6 chain, double into next group of trebles, and repeat from beginning, 6 chain, double over double, and repeat. Do 6 more tassels, thus making 9 over trebles and doubles. Now 6 chain, make a tassel, 6 chain, double into group of trebles, make a tassel, 6 chain, make a tassel, and repeat. Thus having a tassel at each group of trebles, and I stretched across the doubles, not suspended from it. Do this till you get within 9 of the other side, do these 9 to match the left. Now crochet an edging down both fronts, 4 treble into a stitch, 2 chain, i double into next, and repeat. Snd row — double over double, 2 chain, 4 trebles in centre ot trebles, 2 chain, and repeat. Crochet this round neck. For the collar. Make a chain the size of neck, and do 3 rows like the body of the shawl, 4 rows like ist 4 rows of border, 2 rows like the 18th and 19th, fringe it, crochet or sew on. For the cord. Tightly twist 10 strands of wool, double it and pull through the fingers. Sew 2 pieces at neck, and finish with tassels. Twist another piece into a knot and ends, and sew on back of collar. Finish with tassels. SHAWL IN AMERICAN SHELL PATTERN. The shawl stitch used in this pattern is specially recommendable. White Shetland makes a very delicate shawl, coloured would be more serviceable, quantity regulated by the size ; a coarse bone hook should be used. Make a chain the length required. 1st row — I treble into 6th chain from needle, 7 more treble into the same chain, * miss 2 chain, i double into next, miss 2 chain, 8 treble into next, and repeat from * the length required. Snd row^ — turn with 3 chain, i treble into ist treble of last row, but do not work the treble right off, keep the last loop on your needle, do 3 more in the same way in the three next stitches, that is, keeping the last loop of each on your needle, you will have 5 loops ; draw through all 5 loops at once, and make a loose chain ; 3 chain, i double in same stitch as last was worked in, * 3 chain, 4 half trebles in next 4 stitches, pass over the double between the scallops in previous row, and work 4 half trebles in the next 4 trebles in next scallop, you will have 9 loops on your needle, draw through all and make a loose chain ; 3 chain, 1 double into same stitch as the last treble was worked in, and repeat from * to end of row. You will always have halt a shell at the beginning and end of each row. 3rd row— turn with 3 chain, 4 ordinary treble — that is worked off in the usual way — into ist hole made by I chain, * i double over the double between the 2 sets of 3 chain in last row, 8 treble into next hole formed by i chain, and repeat from*. 4th row — turn with 3 chain, * 4 half trebles into first 4 stitches of last row, pass over the double, and work 4 half trebles into the 1st THE FANCY V.'C F.K-E.UKLT 4 stitches of next scallop, draw wool through all 9 loops, with i loose chain, 3 chain, t double into same stitch as the last treble was worked in, 3 chain and repeat from *, end the row with 3 chain; i double into last stitch; always turn with 3 chain again. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows. For the border. 1st row — i treble, 2 chain, all round the shawl, about j inch apart, at the corners work i treble, 2 chain, i treble, 2 chain, i treble all into the corner stitch. Snd row — 4 treble into a hole, 2 chain, miss a hole, 4 treble into next, and repeat all round. At the corners put 4 trebles into both holes. 3rd row — 3 chain, 4 trebles into every hole of last row, at the cor- ners put 4 treble, 2 chain, 4 treble into the hole. 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, Sth rows— like the 3rd. 9th row— like the ist row in body of shawl. 10th row — like the 2nd. 11th row— like the 3rd. 12th row— like the 4th. J.A.CKET FOR INFANTS, In Crazy Stitch. Chain of 66 stitches in Shetland wool. 1st row — 32 plain blocks of 3 in ordinary treble crochet. Begin pattern. Turn and work back. 2nd row— 3 chain, I double crochet into space between the 2nd and 3rd treble of last block of last row, 2 chain and 2 treble into same space, * i double crochet into space between the 2 last blocks of last row, 2 chain and 2 treble into same space ; repeat from * into the space between each block to the end ot row, putting 2 blocks into the spaces between the i6th and 17th blocks of last row. There should be 34 blocks in this row. Turn. 3rd row — 2 chain, * i double crochet into the space between the double crochet and 1st treble of last block. 2 chain and 2 treble into the same space ; repeat from* into the same spaces in each block. There should be 35 blocks in this row, making an extra one at the end. 4th row — turn the work, and work back in the same way, making 36 blocks by working 2 into the i8th block. 5th row — work 36 blocks. 6th row — work 8 blocks into each space formed by the 2 chain, 2 blocks into the next space, I into next, 2 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 7, 2 into the next, i into the next, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 8. 7th row — 41 blocks into each of the last row. 8th row— work I block into each of the ist 8 blocks of last row, 2 into the next, I into each of the next 3, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 7, 2 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 3, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 8. 9th row— 46 blocks into each of the last row. 10th row — i block into each of the ist 8, 2 into the ne.xt, I into each of the next 5, 2 into the next, i into each ot the next 8, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 7, 2 into the next, I into each of the next 5, 2 into the ne.xt, i into each of the next 8. nth row— 31 blocks into each of the last row. 12th row — I block into each of the Ist 8, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 7, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 8, 2 into the next, I into each of the next 8, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 7, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 8. ISth row — 56 blocks into each of the last row. 14th row — I block into each of the 1st 8, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 9, 2 into the next, I into each ot the next 9, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 8, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 9, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 8. 15th row— 61 blocks into each of the last row. 16th row — i block into each of the ist 8, 2 into the next, I into each of the next i r, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 9, 2 into the next, I into each of the next 9, 2 into the next, I into each of the next 11, 2 into the next, I into each of the next 8. 17th row — 66 blocks into each of the last row. 18th row — I block into each of the 1st 8, 2 into the next, I into each of the next 13, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 9, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 9, 2 mto the next, i into each 3f the next 13, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 8, 2 into the next. 19th row — 71 blocks into each of the last row. 20th row — i into each of the ist 9, miss 15 blocks and work the loth into the 16th or 25th from the beginning of the row, i into each of the next 10, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 1 1, miss 1 5, and work I into the 62nd block, I into each of the next 8. 21st row — i into each block, 42 in all. 22nd row — i into each of the ist 8, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 12, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 11, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 8. 23rd row — 45 blocks into each of the last row. 24th row — i into each ot the ist 22, 2 into the next, i into each of the next to the end of the row. 25th row — 46 blocks into each of the last row. 26th row — i into each of the 1st 23, 2 into the next, i into each of the next to the end of the row. 27th row — 47 blocks into each of the last row. 28th row — 47 blocks into each ot the last row. 29th row — i into each of the ist 21, 2 into the next, i into each of the next 3, 2 into the next, i into each 01 the next 21. 30th row — 49 blocks into each of the last row. Two more plain rows for the bottom. Then work up other side of the jacket till you reach the row of chain, turn and work back, and along the bottom, and up the other sides, then turn and work back, and again along the bottom, and up the first side, where you now have 3 rows, bre.ak off the wool, and begin at the beginning of this last row up the side, and work i more row along the bottom, and up the other side, and I row along the neck. Turn and work back along the neck. Break off the wool and fasten off. There should be 2 rows along the top, 3 down each side. To make a deeper scallop, the last row of each side may have 3 trebles instead of 2, and the last 3 rows all round, or 5 at the bottom, 3 at the sides, and 2 at the top may be worked in colour. For the sleeves, work 15 blocks (taking up the 15 you missed in the 20th row), and working them backwards and forwards for 1 1 rows, and 3 for the border, taking care to begin each row under the arm, and with 2 chain, and completely finishing off each row, so as not to get it contracted. Quantity of wool, required. I oz. white wool, i oz coloured ; size of pin, 8 or 10. Ribbons for sleeves and neck, I yard li inch wide. In putting 2 blocks into i, this may either be done by working 2 into the same space or working the extra i into the space between the 2 trebles. REVERSIBLE POINT-DE-NEIGE. Make a chain rather longer than the required length, and 4 over. 1st row — work back along the chain, putting the needle into the last chain but one, drawing the wool through, then into the next chain, and so on till you have 6 loops on the needle, * draw the wool through all 6 loops at once, and make > I chain, so as to draw them more firmly to- gether, put the needle into the hole just made, then into the back of the last of the 6 loops, then into the chain into which the last loop of the last shell was worked, and once into each of the next 2 chain. There are again 6 loops on the needle ; repeat from * to the end of the chain. 2nd row — turn the work, and work back ; 3 chain, work the 2nd and 3rd loops in 2 of the chain, the 4th loop into the hole formed by the i chain (which you made after drawing the wool through the 6 loops), 5th into the next chain formed by the ist loop of the last shell of last row ; 6th into the hole formed by the last shell but I in previous row. Now you have 6 loops on the needle, draw the wool through all 6 loops at once, and continue as in last row. Every row the same. In Scotch yarn with a good sized pin it makes very pretty ridges. NOTICE. A Handsome Cloth Gilt Case, with Fancy Medallion Also Title axd Content-^, May now be had for binding the first Twelve Numbers of the Fasct Work-Basket ; the Title and Contents to Volume were given in No. 15, price S^d., post free. Price Is. ^., post free. R. 3. CARTWRIGHT. S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, Or by order of all Newsagents, 191 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. CHILD'S DRESS IN CRAZY STITCH. This exquisite little dress measures 22 inches in length, and 23 inches round the waist. Materials required : — 6 skeins of white, and 2 of pink Shetland wool, ij yards of pale pink sateen, 7 yards of ^-inch pink ribbon, 4 yards of lace. The dress consists of a long princess bodice and pleated skirt. Commence the bodice in crazy stitch, make a chain of 60, crochet 15 plain rows. 16tli row — increase 18 liSlkV- ' chain, work on then for 5 rows, this is for back shoulder strap. 2Snd row— decrease 36 chain for I row. 23rd row — increase again for arm- hole; in the 25th row increase 18 chain for i shoulder for 5 rows. 31st row— decrease 18 chain. Now work plain for 26 rows. This completes front and half of back; do the other back in the same way, sew up the bodice for about 4 inches from the bottom, crochet 3 rows of treble close together round neck, 3 rows round armhole for sleeve, 5 rows round bottom. Crochet an edge in pink round neck and sleeves, 8 treble into a stitch, miss 2, i double into next, miss 2, and repeat. 2nd row — 4 chain, i double between every treble, 2 double with 4 chain between over every double of last row. For the skirt, work 2 double crochet 2nd row— 2 consecutive double, 3 double into the 3rd, 2 consecutive double, miss 2, and repeat ; do 8 rows of white in this stitch, 3 of pink, 3 of white, 3 pink, 3 white'. Now crochet an edge in pink like the ist row round neck, thread l row of ribbon in middle row of treble at neck and sleeves, tie in bows at the sleeves, thread a row at ist, 3rd and 5th rows of heading of flounce, tie in bows at back ; lace 2 pieces half way down back, and at the end. Cut the dress out in sateen, make up separately, edge neck, sleeves, and bottom with lace, place inside the dress, and tack loosely here and there. into every treble. PRETTY HANDBASKET. This little basket can be easily and inexpensively made, and is very useful, besides looking effective. The materials required are 2 balls of No. o crochet cotton, a medium sized steel hook, a little starch, i gill of best spirit varnish, and 2| yards of cardinal satin ribbon 2 inches wide. Commence at the bottom of the basket. Make a chain of 60. 1st row — 2 double into the 2nd from needle, 1 double into each of the 57 chain, 2 double into the 59th chain. Now work 2 double into the 1st stitch on the other side of chain, double right across, and 2 double again into the other corner. 2nd row — work double right round, increasing at each corner as before, and picking up the back loop only ; do 12 more rows like the 2nd row. This finishes the bottom of the basket. 15th row — * 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into i double, miss 3, and repeat from * all round. 16th row — 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into every hole formed by 2 chain in isth row. 17th row — like the i6th. 18th row — fasten on in a picot of 17th row, and make 8 chain (this is to form the ist long treble), now wind the cotton 6 times round the hook, insert in same stitch, and draw cotton through ; draw through 2 loops at a •time till all are worked off, 3 chain, and repeat all round. 19th row — like the 15th, working the picots between the 2 long trebles. 20th and 21st rows— like the i6th. 22nd row— like the 18th. 23rd row — like the 19th. 24th row — 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble into every picot. This finishes the crochet part. If a rough bot- tom is wished, you can turn your bottom before beginning the open 192 work. For the handles, make a chain of 55, and work round both sides in double crochet, then double the work together, and crochet the two edges together, this makes it round; sew a handle on each side. To dress the basket, wring it through stiff starch, and stretch it on an old basket the same shape, or a wooden block, pin out each point of the top row, and let it remain till quite dry, then remove from the block, and give two coats of varnish, lace the ribbon through the long trebles, and finish by putting a bow on one side. INFANTS BIB. Materials required : — i knot of Clarke's No. 12 cotton, and a medium size steel hook. Make a chain of 142 stitches, turn, miss i, I treble into every stitch, fasten off. 2nd row— leave 48 stitches un worked ; work 19 consecutive doubles, 3 doubles in next stitch, 19 consecutive doubles. Turn with i chain, and do another row like the last, working into back loop only. Repeat 5 times more, then do a row of treble, 7 more rows of double, i treble row, 7 double rows, I treble row, 7 double rows, a treble row. Now commence the right hand side of bib, leaving the neck piece. 1st row — 3 treble into a stitch, miss a stitch, and repeat all round. 2nd row — double crochet into the ist stitch, 3 chain, double between ist 2 groups of treble ; repeat all round. 3rd row — 3 treble into every loop of 3 chain ; at the corners and in centre put 6. 4th row— like the 2nd. 5th row — begin the neck piece, fasten on at end, 5 chain, miss 3 treble, i double into next ; repeat till you get to the bib part, when put your double in every loop of 3 chain. Work right round till you get to left side of neck, when work into the trebles. 6th row — 5 chain, i double into every loop of last row. 7th to 14th rows — like the 6th. Do a row of thfe same round neck part. Crochet the following edge entirely round the bib : double into a loop, * 7 chain, purl back into the Sth, 2 chain, i double into next hole, repeat. EDGING. A very pretty and quickly made edging, suitable for a variety of purposes. Use cotton No. 28 and a fine hook. Make a chain of 8, join, and into the ring work 12 treble, 3 chain, 12 treble, unite the last to the first, * 14 chain, slip stitch into the 7th to form another ring ; 6 treble into the ring, shp stitch to the 1 8th treble of the last ring, count- ing from the beginning, 6 treble into same hole as the last, 6 treble, 3 chain, 12 treble into same hole, unite last treble to first, and repeat from * for the length required. For the THE FANCY VVORIC-BASKE'l'. lower edge do i treble, r chain 5 times' in every loop of 3 chain. Do not make the I chaih when going from one hole to another. 2nd row— 4 chain, I double into every loop of I chain in last row, with no chain between the scallop. The top edge is formed by 4 chain, 1 treble into every 4th stitch. ^T''^^ ANTIMACASSAR, OR MUSIC STOOL COVER. ' Mate-ials required: cotton No. 12 and No. 4 hook. Make a chain and unite into a round. 1st row — 24 treble into the ring, join. 2nd row — 5 treble in the 1st stitch, draw ist and last treble togetherwith a slipstitch, I chain over a treble and repeat all round. There should be 12 groups. 3rd row — 5 treble drawn together as before into loop of I chain, 2 chain, and repeat. 4th row — I treble, 2 chain, i treble into centre of ist bump, 2 chain, l treble into centre of 2 chain, 2 chain, i treble into centre of next bump, 2 chain, I treble in next, 2 chain, and repeat from beginning. There should be 30 holes. 5th row — double into every stitch. 6th row — 3 chain, unite into a ring, work 7 treble into the ring so that it comes on the right side, 1 double mto the same stitch of 5th row, 4 chain, unite into a ring, 9 treble into the ring, i double into 5th row, 3 chain, unite, work 7 treble into it, i double in 5th ; now work 8 slipstitches on the doubles, 6 chain, unite into a ring, 4 trebles, catching the 4 trebles of the 7th, the ring nearest you, 1 5 trebles, 8 slipstitches over doubles and repeat, always catching the leaves together at the 4th treble. 7th row — 5 chain, i treble in centre of small leaf, 5 chain, i long treble be- tween 1st and 2nd section of large leaf, 5 chain, i double into the centre of 2nd section of large leaf, 5 chain, i long treble between 2nd and 3rd sections, and repeat all round. 8th row— double into every stitch. 9th row — make a corner as follows ; 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble into i stitch,* bump in the next stitch, i treble into the next stitch, repeat from * 5 times more, make another corner and repeat ■all round. 10th row — corner as before, bump over the treble and treble over the bumps. You should have 7 between each ' torner. 11th row — same as the loth : 8 between each corner. 13th row — 7 chain, make a loop by slipstitching into the 3rd, 6 chain; shp- stitch into a loop, 7 chain, slipstitch into same loop, 6 chain, slipstitch into same, 3 chain, slipstitch into treble of nth, and repeat all round, always catch your 1st loop of 6 chain into the last loop of previous group. Increase at the corners. This completes the star.' The star should be joined together in the loop of 7 chain in the last row, I star for the centre, 6 stars in 2nd row, 12 stars in 3rd row.- AVork the following border all round, i treble into loop of 7 chain, 5 chain, picot back into treble, i treble into same loop, 5 chain, and repeat all round. 8nd row — i treble picot, i treble into loop of 5 chain, 5 chain, and repeat. 3rd and 4th rows — same as the 2nd. 5th row — 6 chain, slipstitch into 4th from needle, 7 chain, slipstitch into 4th from needle, 2 chain, i double in centre of 5 chain of last row, 6 chain, slipstitch into 4th from needle, 7 chain, slipstitch into 2nd, Work 4 treble, t double, 5 treble, i double, 4 treble, i double into same loop, 5 chain, slipstitch into 4th, 6 chain, slipstitch into 4th, i double into centre of 5 chain of last row, repeat all round. 6th row — I double in centre of picots of 5th row, 6 chain, picot into 4th, I treble into ist section of leaf, 3 picots, 1 treble into 2nd treble of 2nd section of leaf, 3 picots, i treble into 4th treble of same, 3 picots treble into 3rd section, i picot and repeat. BEAD TOILET SET. Materials required for each mat : Clark's cotton. No. 24, li oz. beads, and fine crochet hook. String half of beads on the cotton, make 8 chain, slipping a bead on each, join with a single stitch. 1st row — 2 double crochet into each chain, slipping a bead between each stitch, making 16 doubles and 16 beads. 2nd row — double crochet into each double, slipping bead between, increasing 8 stitches by making 2 doubles into every 3rd stitch, in all 24 doubles and 16 beads. 3rd row — double crochet into each double, increasing to 32 stitches and 24 beads. 4th row — * 7 chain, miss 3 stitches, and work i double into 4th stitch, repeat from * making 8 spaces. 5th row — * double crochet into ist chain, slip i bead, and continue till there are 7 doubles and 6 beads, i chain, repeat from * till end of the row. 6th row — * 2 chain, and f 7 doubles on 7 doubles of last row, slipping 6 beads, keeping the beads in even lines in this and following rows, repeat from* to end of the row. 7th row — 3 chain, repeat from f to end of row. 8th row — 4 chain, repeat from t to end of row. 9th row — 5 chain, repeat from f to end of row. 10th row— 6 chain, repeat from t to end of row. 11th row— 7 chain, repeat from t to end of row. 12th row— 8 chain, repeat from t to end of row. 13th row — 9 chain, repeat from t to end of row. 14th row — 10 chain, repeat from t to end of row. In these rows the same number of chain is made after the 7 doubles as before them. The small bead diamond begins in next row. 15th row — * 4 chain, 1 double into 4th and 5th chain, slip I bead, and work doubles into 6th and 7th chain, 4 chain, repeat from t, then repeat from * to the end of row. 16th row — * 4 chain, 4 doubles on the other 4 doubles, slipping 3 beads; 4 chain, repeat from f, then repeat from * to end of row. 17th row — * 4 chain, work 6 doubles, putting the ist into the 3rd chain, slip 5 beads, repeat from t,then repeat from * to end of row. 18th row — * 5 chain, i double into 2nd double, slip 3 beads and make 4 doubles in all, 5 chain, repeat from f, then repeat from * to end of row. 19th row — * 5 chain, 4 doubles on the last 4 doubles, slipping i bead in the middle, 4 chain, repeat from t, then repeat from * to end of row. The next row begins the scallop, and all the trebles have 2 beads slipped on each when working them off. 20th row — * 6 chain, i treble into 2nd double of diamond, 2 chain, i treble into 3rd double, 6 chain, i double into 4th chain, continue till there are 11 doubles and 10 beads slipped, repeat from * to end of row. 21st row — * 6 chain, 4 treble, with 2 chain between each, into the middle of the 2 trebles, 6 chain, 11 doubles and 10 beads as in previous row, repeat from * to end of row. 22nd row — * 7 chain, i treble, 2 chain, and i treble into each ot the 3 holes, 7 chain, miss i double, and work 9 doubles, slipping 8 beads, repeat from * to end of row. 23rd row — * 7 chain, i treble, 2 chain, and I treble into ist hole, 2 chain, i treble, 2 chain, and i treble into 2nd and 3rd holes, 7 chain, miss i double, and work 7 doubles, slipping 6 beads, repeat from * to end of row. 24th row — 7 chain, I treble, 2 chain, and i treble into each of the 5 holes, 7 chain, miss I double, and work 5 doubles, slipping 4 beads, repeat from * to end of row. 25th row — 7 chain, i treble, 2 chain, and i treble into 1st hole, 2 chain, i treble, 2 chain, and i treble into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th holes, miss i double, and work 3 doubles, slipping 2 beads, repeat from * to end of row. 26th row — f 6 drain, slipping a bead on each, * i treble into ist hole, draw up 22 beads to make the 1st loop of fringe, work anotl e.' treble into the same hole, 193 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. cpeat from * till the scallop has 9 bead loops, then make 6 beaded chain, work 2 doubles between the 3 doubles, and slip 1 bead, repeat from t to end of row. The above pattern makes a very handsome toilet set. For the brush and comb mat a piece of damask is cut the size of the tray, a row of double crochet worked round the hem, and then the pattern worked from the isth row. HANDSOME CHEMISE TOP. Materials required : — 23 yards of fine Gordon braid, 3 skeins cf crochet cotton, No. 30, fine steel hook. Commence with the top of a scallop, I double into a picot, 2 chain, i double into ne.xt picot, 2 chain, i double into next picot, * 5 chain, i treble into next picot ; do not work it right off", keep the last loop on your needle (the trebles throughout are done like this), I treble into each of next 2 picots. Now draw through all at once, and repeat from * 3 times more. 2 chain, miss 2 picots, i treble into each of next 3 picots, 2 chain, miss 2 picots, i treble into each of ne.xt 3, 2 chain, slipstitch into the 3rd of the last 5 chain you made ; * 2 chain, i treble into each of next 3 picots, 2 chain, slipstitch into 3rd of next 5 chain of opposite side, repeat from * twice more. 2 chain, I double into next picot. Now repeat from commencement 36 times. This is for back and shoulders. In next scallop repeat from ist * 4 times instead of 3 ; you will thus have 5 groups of 3 treble down each side instead of 4. Next scallop — the same. Next scallop — increase. Go on increasing a group every alternate scallop till you have done 19 scallops, counting from the shoulder. You should have 14 groups in the 19th scallop. 20th and 21st, 13 groups. Nowgoon doing agroup less in every other scallop till you have done l6 more. Fasten off" and join neatly together with needle and cotton. Now, to join the other side of braid, take a needle and cotton and fasten on at top of scallop, run the needle through the picots alternately each side of scallop till you get to the one parallel with the last group of trebles at the side of scallop, not the centre one that has the missed picots between. Fasten off" securely. In doing this at the front of work, stop your interlacing at the last group of shortest scallop. For the edge. 1st row — i double in centre hole of top of scallop, 5 chain, i long treble in hole between scallops, and repeat. Snd row — 5 chain, i treble into 3rd chain of last row, * 2 chain, miss 2 of last row, 1 treble in next, repeat from * all along. 3rd row — 5 chain, 2 long trebles into 1st hole of last row, * 5 chain, miss i hole, 2 long trebles into next, and repeat from *. 4th row — 2 chain, i treble into long treble, 2 chain, i treble into centre of 5 chain, repeat. 5tli row— 4 treble into ist hole of last row, 3 chain, miss I hole, 7 doubles into next 2 holes, 3 chain, miss i hole, repeat. 6tlirow — 3 treble into last chain and ist2 trebles of last row, 3 chain, 2 trebles into last 2 trebles of last row, i treble into ist chain following the 4 trebles of last row, 3 chain, miss i double of last row, I double into each of 5 successive doubles, 3 chain, repeat. 7th row — 3 treble into last chain and Ist 2 trebles of last row, 3 chain, i treble into the hole made between the trebles of last row, 3 chain, i treble into same hole, 3 chain, miss i treble, i treble into each of 2 next trebles, i treble into 1st stitch of the 3 chain of last row, 3 chain, miss i double of last row, I double into each of next 3 doubles, 3 chain, repeat. 8th row — 3 trebles into last chain and ist 2 trebles of last row, 3 chain, 194 I treble into ist hole, 3 chain, i treble into next hole, 3 chain, I treble into same hole, 3 chain, I treble into next hole, i treble into each of last 2 trebles of last row, i treble into ist of 3 chain of last row, miss 1st double of last row, i double into the next, repeat. 9th row — I double into ist hole of last row, 3 chain, I double in same hole, 3 chain, i double in same hole, 3 chain, i double in same hole. Repeat into every hole. For the sleeves, make 20 scallops the same depth as the back, viz. 4, finish with the same edging as neck Now sew to the neckpiece with a needle and cotton, thus — fold the sleeve in two and join the 3 middle scallops, the ist 3 scallops of 4 groups counting for fronts. GRECIAN KEY EDGING. Make a chain the length required. 1st row — I treble in the 6th chain, * 2 chain, miss 2 of the foundation, i treble into the next ; repeat from * to end of row. Fasten off. Snd row — 5 chain, i treble on ist treble, * 2 chain, i treble on the next treble ; repeat from * to end of row. Fasten off". 3rd row — 3 chain, 16 consecu- tive treble, * 2 chain, miss 2 chain, 16 consecutive treble ; repeat from * to end of row. Fasten off". 4th row — 3 chain, 3 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, i treble into the next, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into the next, 2 chain, miss 2, 4 consecutive treble, * 2 chain, miss 2, 4 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into the next, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into the next, 2 chain, miss 2, 4 consecutive treble ; repeat from * to end of row. Fasten off. 5th row — 3 chain, 3 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 10 treble, * 2 chain, 4 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2,4 consecutive treble; repeat from * to end of row. Fasten oif. 6th row — 3 chain to form a treble, 3 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2 chain of last row, 4 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2 treble, I in the next, 2 chain, miss 2, I in the next, 2 chain, miss 2, 4 consecutive treble, * 2 chain, miss 2, 4 consecutive treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 in the next, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble in the next, 2 chain, miss 2, 4 consecutive treble; repeat from *. 7th row — 3 chain, 3 consecutive treble, * 2 chain, miss 2, 16 consecutive treble ; repeat from *. 8th row— 2 chain, i treble in every alternate stitch. 9th row — i double into ist hole, * 4 chain, miss a hole, i treble into next, 3 chain, i treble into same hole, 4 chain, miss a hole, i double into next ; repeat from *. 10th row — * I treble, 2 chain, i treble, 3 chain, i treble, 2 chain, i treble, all between 2 trebles of 9th row, 3 chain, I double into first 4 chain of 9th row, miss next 4 chain, 3 chain ; repeat from *. llti row — * I treble between first 2 trebles of loth row, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 3 chain, i treble, 2 chain, i treble into same ho e, miss the next hole, 3 chain, i double into next 3 chain of last row, 3 chain ; repeat from *. T- r^ /"^ T XT ^M^: Make a chain of 6,picot into the 3rd; repeat3 times more. **i2 chain, picot i nto the 6th,6 chain, picot into the 3rd, 2 chain, slip stitch between the 3rd and 4th of the 3 chain picots, 6 chain, picot into the 3rd, 6 chain, picot, 2 Cham, slipstitch between the ist and 2nd picots, 8 chain, i double into the ist chain you started with ; turn. Work 16 trebles into the loop, 6 chain, picot twice, 2 chain, slipstitch between ist and 2nd picots nearest you, 6 chain, and picot twice, 2 chain, slip- stitch between the 2 last picots (that is, the one of 6 chain and the one ot 3 chain), 12 chain, picot into 6, 6 chain and picot, 2 chain, miss a picot, slipstitch between that and the next one, 6 chain and picot twice, 2 chain, miss 2 picots, slipstitch between 2nd and next one, 5 chain, i treble on ist of the 16, *2 chain, miss I, i treble on next and repeat from * 6 times more ; turn, i double into ist hole, * 6 chain, picot, 2 chain, i double into next hole ; repeat from * into every hole ; 6 chain, and picot twice, slipstitch between Ist and 2nd picots, 2 picots, slipstitch between 3rd and 4th picots ; repeat from ** for length desired. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. MANTELriECE-: AN'II THEIR TRIMMINr.S. [f you have a very Vnnd-ome mintcl piece don'l do anything to it at all, licy'>nd placinj»a few mats tr, keep it froin being scratched ; or, instead of the mats, I must tell you I have a yelljwish-green scarf on a green raantelpifC*", supposedly mala- chite. The scaif-ends hang down at the ends of the mantel, and are really quite pretty. We will now suppose you have a n antel which would be better covered. To do ihU it is better to have a board, though I will mention a plan farther on by means of which a board may be dispensed with. For /K<7feJziiA '—Anything from an old dress, or a portion of an old curtain, up to new, em- broidered silk, satin velvet or plush. I will tell you of a beautiful lambrequin which I saw, and then you can work nut someihing similar, according to the mantdpece and the means at your command. To begin, you must cover the board wi'h a piece of material the same as the lambrequin, or some harmonious colour (the same is best), and then fasten on the drapery. The drapery should be half as deep again as the width of your shelf: in some cases twice ihe width of the shelf would not be too much. For length, it must reach round the mantel-board easily, and allow about J or | of a yard at each end to fa'l as an end of drapery. Now put the middle of your cloth to the middle of your board, and tack or stitch the drapery on easily, but without any visible fulness till your matt rial is all on, and the ends hanging down at each end of the shelf. Now take 20 or 24 inches of ribbon, turn in one end, and fasten it in the centre of the board, take the other end of the ribbon, and fasten it in the centre of the board, but underneath. This draws up your material in a scallop. Take a similar piece of ribbon, and draw it up in the same way, each side of the centre, and at a suit- able distance away ; then again, if necessary, draw the drapery at each end into position. This arrangement is to a great extent a matter of deft handling and taste. The lambrequin or drapery I saw was composed of yellow Idles with daik green leaves, and 1 think it had a brown velvet ground. Another was crimson cloth, draped up by means of cloth straps, and the material em- broidered in peacock's feathers. Many an old dress could be suflSciently reno- vated by mean? of some of the many dyes sold {such as Judson's or the Diamond ; the latter I have not tried, but the former I have found good), and reappear in a new form as mantel drapery, or covering for small tables, footstools, &c. Failing the above, sateen, serge, and cer- tainly cretonne, or chintz, and lace in some of the dark rich patterns, and in fact almost anything you happen to have, can be utilised for the draping of mantelpieces, tables, chairs, fire- place curtams, lambieqains, &c. The great art is Ito have a good standard^ such as you ivotfld like to follow, and then g t as riear as you can by using the materials you possess. A little lace, libbon, gimp, or crochet-eogii'g in wool, coloured cotton, or Seine cord added to your own materials, wijl often enable you to i btain a very pretty effect. The mantel-draping gives something of the effect shown in the accompanying diagram. Where the drapery joins the plain cover of the shelf, cover the join with cord or gimp. Curtains for Winter. If you find it convenient to buy curtains, get them by all means. You will find Canton flannel, wide width, and fluffy on both sides, if possible, a g od material. It drapes wtll, is warm and sui.stantiaMooking, and does not cost much. You c m make straps to drape the curtains back ; or, if you are not tired of the mention of the tenni? fcirves, you will find them splendid for ties, they are substantial, tie well, and do not crumple like silk. If you live in the country, or where the gilt will not tarnish, the gold chains arc very reasonable in price, and for a drawing- room, look well. Do not, however, get any- thing out of keening with the rest of your fuini- ture ; however simple and inexpensive your fittingi are. if they are in good taste and show a cuhurcd and r. fined mind, be happy and content; good taste is worth more in dress and arrangement of a house than a large amount of money and elaborate display badly placed. A Useful Home-made tair of Curtains. Save up several old dresses, or curtains, or anything you have, and arrange them in stripes, or an o -.long centre, with squares at the corners of a different colour, fiUing in the sides with stripes of another shade, and bind all round with the same as the centre, if you have it, if not, with some flowered or plain sateen, or cretonne. For a nursery, you might use different pattern^, having quaint and amusing designs therenn, or a few )aros of cretonne are pretty for the children if you get a pattern with pietiy designs for them to look at. At the end of the ball-dress season you can get lengths of muslin and similar material for a mere trifle. I have seen most elegant drawing- room curtains made from a ball-dress leiigth, costing a nominal figure. You can run the widths together till you get the required width, and then either simply hem the sides and ends, or trim with a dozen or two yards of cheap washirg-lace. The latter is a most elegant finish. A length of a serge dress, or a sateen made in the same way trimmed with fancy braid, and edged with thick woollen lace, if you like the idea ; or if you line the curtains and make them heavy, you had better run the edges inside with the machine, then turn the curtains right side out, of glass for flower?. Pieces of unframed looking- glass can be bought at but very little cost. Now supposing you wish to make a novel centre for your table or sideboard. You procure a square or round of looking glass of a s'ze suitable for the article of furniture you wish to p'ace it on. You then fix it on to a pice of wood the same length as ihe g'a;s, and with little knobs for legs, so that you can convcniertly move it. Under the wooden foundation gum sjrne green baize, and bring the edges over on the surface of the g'a5=, and gum down. You then buy four strips (supposing your glass is square, or two if oval shape or round) of glass box, whith you can purchase at any of the good china-shop-;. Place these round the edge of the lookii g glass to form a border, and which is to be filled wiih flowers. In the middle you have a tall vase. Pink glass has a pretty effect, and hidesthe stalks. Then have a piece of virgin cork cut into httle bits about two or three inches square, and place all round the stem of the glass, piliiig it up well, and put green moss between the pieces of coik. If the size of your glass admits of it, have four specimen vases at the base of the large centre one. You can buy g'ass boats to fill with flowers to place on the plate g'ass, and a few little swans, etc., according to the dimensions of your decora- tion. Any lady who took the trouble to mike this arrangement (very simple after all) would be pleased with the effect. An image with a basket on the head full of flowers would look pretty for the centre, in place of the va e. Cups, «hen the handles are off, are frequently thrown away ; but if they were covered all over " ith moss, a very pretty and uncommon recep'acle f r flowers is forined. You can gum the moss on, and tie it round with green cotton or silk, to keep it in its place. Speaking of moss, if you put it on the outside of a common flower-pot, and over it have a lattice-made flower-pot cover, you would have something new, with li'tle expense attending it. The chini holders are very nice, but good ones, like everything else, are dear. Many ladies can draw and paint charming little pictures, but when they are done, the expense in framing is a difficulty. Plush forms very good picture-frames. These can easily be made at home, and a piece of sheet glass can be bought for a trifling outlay to fit in the frame when made. Small water- and lay on your fancy braid an inch or two or colour drawings placed on a pale-grey mount, and more from the edge, to keep them in shape. mounted in a frame covered with ruby-coloured The above are very durable, and can be made plush, with a brass fancy nail at each corner, look very handsome, by placing some of the silk \ exceedingly pretty, and if_ the wood on which you applique ornaments in the corners, or along the ' gum the plush is formed m the Oxford ^^^n- top edge of the curtain, well down below the cornice or rod, so that you can see the work well. Across the top and in the corners is a newer style, and a change from a border all round. Small fire-place curtains to match are useful. They look warm and furnish the room when the fire is lit, and they are drawn back out of the way, and always admit of the fire being laid ready, a plan much appreciated by those who like a fire in the evening, or in case of callers coming in to tea unexpectedly. HINTS ON DECORATION. gum the"plush is formed in the " Oxford " shape, !t helps to keep it secure. Crayon drawings, or pencil, look well with a grey mount, and framed in this way. If you cannot draw or paint, charming little water-colour drawings can be bought for 2.P. or 3^., unmounted. They are mostly done by poor ladies, therefore while you are grati-'ying your own artistic taste, you are doing a chariiable action. A drawing or water-colour, framed in the way suggested, would look very well over a bracket draped with ecru lace, and a vase fil!ed with flowers, or a china cup and saucer standing on each side of the picture. Over the bracket place two fans (peacock feathers look well) crossed, and you have a most charming arrangemEnt to fi'l up a space of the wall. Very cheap and by In these days of studied economy, while yet P^ot' g^^P'' names can be boug«t now- ih( re is such a craze for all things aitistic in the jcover.ng the frame with plush you have ari way of decoration, it is difficult for a lady to expensive looking one, at Utile cost ; a yard ol innulge her taste for making her rooms look : p'ush goes a long way for these httle aiticles. pretty, at but little expense, and stid escape ; A looking-glass framed in sta-ned wood can giving the idea that she is copying her more h^ve a b iraeiiog of plush about two mches in fortunate sifters, only in a cheap lorm. Now the depth, and when fixed against the wall has a very summer is coming, and flowers wi'l cost but Ufle, | pretty effect, only you must take out the r;ng theie will be a Better chance of giving a bright ' put to hang it up by, and phce it at the s de to appearance to the most inexpensively furnished I suspend it Then it is, of course, longer than it is room. But then comes the question what to | broad, which adds to the appearance. \ ou can have place our flowers in, whether they are cut or in pots? small brackets each side, on which are little bras? To arrange the former with goodeffect, an epergne is ' candlesticks. To make the plush set nicely, gum generally used. But then all cannot afford to buy it on to cardboard the width you wish your frame an exp n-ive one. If a common one is taken for decoration it is apt to give the idea of the " old clothes" having been exchanged for this ornament to be. Ic can then be firmly glued on to the wooden one the glass is in. 195 Mrs. LEACH'S CORSETS, LADIES' BELTS AND ODTFITTING ESTABL^FWENT, 37, NEW KEITT ROAD, LOHDOS, S.K., y«ar thB Elephant and Castle Station, Please tend post card for llluttrated Price List Art-Needlework. No. 12. ToiLKT Set. No. 12. Toilet Set. This set will look very well worlied on ciatmeal or Zulu cloth with filoselle silk, mid-blue or dark blue. Tlie set of seven pieces may be obtained, leady traced on Zulu cloth and fringed, for is. ^d., post free, Irom Mrs. Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London, S. E. No. 24. D'Oyleys of ye Comic Royal Household. This set of Ye Comic Royal Household, which is excessively unique, is really pretty when worked out. It may be worked either in coloured ingrain cottons, single strands ul filoselles, fine crewel silks, or fine crewels, and will be much admired when finished. Dark colours should be selected. We can supply the set of twelve (with 12 different figures of Ye Royal Household) on cream Zulu cloth, seven inches square, post free for IS. dd. Address, Mrs. Lkaoh, 37, New Kent Road. No. 21. Lady's Night-Dress Bag. This bag can be made in crape cloth, Bolton sheeting, or crash. The rosebuds should be worked in three pinks and green, the forget-me-nots in two blues, and the convolvuluses in shades of purple, leaves and stems generally green. The bag may be had cut out in crash, and traced ready for working, for la., post free, from Mrs. Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London. A paper pattern for cutting out this night-dress bag may be had post free for Two Stamps. In sending for paper pattern. No. 1613 should be ordered. Address, Pattern Department, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. % Floral D'riyi.EYs. We "offer to our 1 eis a new and original set of twelve Floral D'Oyleys, the subjects being common garden and wild flowers. Care should of course be exercised in the selection of suitable varieties of green for the leaves of the various subjects, or their resemblance to nature and artistic effect will suffer. For instance, the horse- tail fern or equisetura, a riverside plant, depends solely foi its simple beauty on its puie cold green, picked out with black; and the contrast between the two dark shades of the jasmuie leaves and stems should be carefully attended to. We furnish the new Floral series of D'Oyleys, traced on cream Zulu cloth, post free for IS. 6d. i A few threads withdrawn from each edge of the D'Oyleys will form a sufficient fringe. Address, Mrs. Clara Leach, 37, New Kent Road, London. 196 No, 21. Lady's Night-Dress Bag. Y^O\/EENL No 24. D'Oyleys of ye Co.vuc Royal Household. Floral D'Oyleys. No. 3. Night-Drbss Bag. ^ The above designs consist of decorations for ihe bedroom, viz.: — Night-Dress Case, Brush and Comb Bag and a set of seven Toilet Mats of the usual orthodox shapes. For working the cherries two shades of dull red are selected, and the stitches should be in the direction of the shading lines, thus ; — which will give the desired effect of "form" to them. Do not work them round and round, .IS is sometimes advocated, for such a style is better suited to conven- tionalism. The dark shades of red should be used on tire side or sides, where the shading lines appear, gradually intermixing with Ihe lighter, which form the body and bulk of the cherry. We must here observe that great care should be taken to make the stitches of uneven lengths so that the first row may mix invisibly with the second. This applies to the covering of all surfaces. If the stitches be even we have a ridgy appearance, which looks very bad. .^. . ■ — -^ Let the rows fit into each other, ^^ — ^ — - thus : — whether of different shade "^ — ' — or not. This is a very important ^ ^^ •■:^^z~—^ feature in good art-embroidery. • — - — ' The leaves require two shades of _ • '''~ olive-green, and should be worked — ^nr in the ordinary crewel stilrh. from "*" — centre vein diagonally to ihe margin, taking tlie vein as your guide lor the direction. Where the leaf turns over, the under or shadowed surface should be worked in Ihe dark shade of olive-green, and the upper surface in the light shade. Stems should always be worktd lengthways, and never, as is sometimes done by inexperienced hands, over and over in button-hole style. This bedroom set can be supplied either to- gether or In pieces, on Zulu clolh, that being the iriosl suitable fabric yet made for washing goods. AdJies:, Mrs. Leach, 37, New Kent Road, f A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. A FEW WORDS ON FANS, PAST AND PRESENT, AND THEIR DECORATION. From the antiquities in the British Museum, we learn that the fan as an article of female luxury is of very old date. Representa- tions of fans have been found on the tombs at Thebes, showing that they have been in use more than 3,000 years, and Terence, who was a writer of Latin comedies, and lived in the 2nd century B.C., makes one of his characters speak of the fan as used by ladies in ancient Rome, the richest of whom would not think of walking out without her fan-bearer. From them the custom of carrying a fan was gradually handed down through Italy, Spain, and France, until it finally reached Great Britain, for we find Shakespeare speaks of them in connection with ladies' dress or finery: " With scarfs and fans and double charge of bravery." In these times, however, the fan was not a mere article of finery, for there were two kinds, the dress fan and the walking fan; the latter answered the purpose of our parasol, as it was of large size, and was used by ladies when walking to protect their faces from the sun. The dress fan, which was much smaller, much more elaborate in decoration, and elegant in shape, formed part of a lady's toilette at court ceremonies, theatrical and other entertainments, where it was less used for the purpose of cooling than for giving the hands something to do, and also to express symbolically certain passing feelings. We find that in the hands of an adept, the fan, by peculiar movements, could be made to express modesty, anger, hope, love, disdain, hate, and many other feelings. Addison, in a paper which appeared in the Spec- tator — a pleasant satire on this fan manoeuvring — says: "Women are armed with fans as men with swords, and sometimes do more execution." Then, again, we read that Steele, in a paper in the Tatler, in 1 709, gives a rather amusing account of a rich lady, Delamira, resigning her fan when she was about to be married. It seems that one of her female friends had long envied the manner in which this charming coquette had played her fan, and now hearing that she is soon to be married asks her for it, firmly believing that her friend's good fortune is entirely due to her fan. Delamira acknowledges the wonderful virtues of her fan, and tells her that " All she had above the rest of her sex and contemporary beauties was wholly owing to a fan (that was left her by her mother, and had been long in the family), which whoever has in posses- sion, and used with skill, should command the hearts of all her beholders, and since," said she, smiling, " I have no more to do with extending my conquests or triumphs, I will make you a present of this inestimable rarity." Of these dress fans there still exist numerous specimens bequea- thed as heirlooms from one generation to another ; indeed, some ladies have quite a collection, which they prize very highly. Several are in good preservation. In the finer kinds of these old fans, the open part of paper is painted with pretty rural scenes and groups of figures in the style of Watteau. Some are composed of feathers having handles a yard long-, with which the fair owners used to correct their daughters when refractory. Some of Queen EHzabeth's fans were very costly affairs; the following is the description of one which was given to her by the Earl of Leicester. "A fanne of white fathers sett in a handell of golde : the one side thereof garnished with twoe very fayre emeralds, especially one, and fully garnished with dyamonds and rubyes, and the back part and handell of lyke golde, garnished with dyamonds and rubyes, and on each syde a white beare and twoe perles hanging, a lyon ramping, with a white moseled beare at his foote." Another of Elizabeth's fans was valued at four hundred pounds. In the i8th century fans served a very important purpose in the following way : In dancing assemblies in London and elsewhere it became usual for the gentlemen to select their partners by drawing a fan ; all the ladies' fans being placed pro- miscuously in a hat, each gentleman drew one, and the lady to whom it belonged was his allotted partner. Mrs. Montague, in one of het letters, says : " In the afternoon I went to Lord Oxford's ball at Vol. II.— No. 23. Mary-le-bone. . It was very agreeable ; the partners were chosen by their fans, but with a little su-percherie." This lady evidently alludes to a little trick or fraud, from which the gentlemen of that period were far from guiltless. A lady's fan being almost as well known as her face, it was not very difficult to know which one to draw. It seems to have been the practice in Edinburgh to select partners for an entire season by their fans ; and from the following lines we may safely conclude that the gentlemen knew pretty well which fan to draw. " Each lady's fan a chosen Damon bore, With care selected many a day before ; For unprovided with a favourite beau, The nymph, chagrined, the ball must needs forego." Perhaps our readers have had quite enough of the fans used in days long past, so now we will consider the fans of the present, and endeavour to give a few hints as to their decoration ; but before we conclude this part of our paper we would like to mention that in France we have heard that 60,000 work-people are employed in manufacturing fans, and their yearly value is said to exceed 10,000,000 francs. The folding fans that we use were introduced by Catherine de Medici. Fan Painting. Satin, silk, vellum, and gauze are among the materials most commonly used for the mounts of fans. Gaiize is especially pretty, and forms a very excellent groundwork. All of these, with the exception of vellum, have to be prepared for painting, but much time and trouble is saved if the material is bought ready prepared at a fan-maker's. However, if any of our readers wish to prepare the mount for themselves, they must proceed in the following manner: — Dissolve 4 oz. of gelatine in i a pint of water ; then place the material on a stretcher and brush the size over hoth sides of it, using a large soft camel's hair brush. When it is dry, the mount should be cut out according to the pattern desired, and then fijced on a drawing board with drawing pins. Before fastening it, however, the edges should be gummed a little way in ail round, and then left to dry. Indian paper and fan paper can be prepared in the same manner. The subject can now be sketched in with the brush. The choice of a suitable subject is by no means an unimportant matter ; something light and elegant should be selected, and as a suggestion, let us observe that nothing makes a more beautiful decoration for a fan than a graceful spray of grasses or flowers. To most amateurs, flowers would be found the easiest to manage ; still, these are not the only appropriate subjects, Cupids, landscapes, seascapes, birds, &c., can be employed, according to the will and taste of the painter. We noticed a very charming fan made of white gauze, on which was depicted a graceful spray of 197 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. the lovely cherry blossom ; perched on the branch were three saucy little sparrows, looking down at another that was flying up, as much as to say, " There is no room for you, and we do not intend to make any." The accompanying design for a gauze fan is one of the newest. Only a very light decoration is required on satin or gauze mounts, the surface itself being so beautiful it seems a pity to cover it over entirely. On vellum, however, the designs maybe far more intricate and elaborate. The surface is delightful to paint upon, and it can be covered all over with a landscape or figures with great advantage, as the painting is capable of being worked up as highly as an ivory miniature. On gauze no drawing or tracing can be done ; whatever outlines are required as a guide m ust be put in with a brush. A design executed in monochrome looks very well on gauze ; for instance, black and grey, with Chinese white for the lights, looks well on a white ground. On black gauze, figures or^flowers in white are admirable. In painting satin, all the paints must be mixed with white. A clean piece of paper must always be kept under the hand while painting, that it may not rest on the mount. It is best to com- mence on cream or white satin, as black demands a good deal of time and patience to be spent on it. At first it will not be found pleasant to work upon, and also that the colours sink in, and therefore more washes are necessary on it than on other materials. Monochrome is very effective on satin; by monochrome we mean a subject painted entirely in one or two colours, or two or three shades of the one colour. For instance, a spray of oxeye daisies are painted in with light blue, a darker blue Iseing used for the shading of the flowers, while a still darker tint is employed for the leaves, the high lights being put in with white. The design of a palette shape here given is of deep cream satin, the flowers being painted in two shades of brown, and finished off with brown ribbon. This was to accompany a brown dress. Vellum is very much more difficult to paint upon than satin, and requires a vast deal of time and patience, and those who do not possess much of the latter had better not attempt it; at the same time most intricate and beautiful subjects can be painted on it with accuracy and faithful- ness. To work it up stippling must be resorted to, and anyone who can paint photographs ^oell will find no difficulty in doing this ; not so much as a finger must rest on the vellum, or it will be very difficult to make the paint adhere. As these paintings last so long, great care should be taken that the subject be one of which we .are not likely soon to tire, and one that will interest others as well as ourselves. The paints used in fan painting are ordinary •water colours and a bottle of Chinese white; a bottle of ox-gall is handy, for in case the satin should not take the paints well, a drop of ox-gall mixed with them will make them adhere. Have our readers seen the new promenade fans made of violet wood .'' They are most useful as well as ornamental, for some are furnished with an Etui containing glove fastener, scissors, thimble, &c. The outer sticks of some are lined with leather,in which is fitted a looking-glass. 198 SKELETON LEAVES. Ladies who have an abundance of leisure and patience may make many little prettinesses for their rooms and those of their friends, with the help of skeleton leaves. Several articles that are suitable for ornamentation in this way have come into fashion since the art of skeletonising leaves was first practised, but they can, by their use, be made very uncommon and elegant looking. Ladies who are not clever at either painting or embroidery, will, by reviving this art, soon be able to manufacture quite as dainty and effective things as their more artistic sisters. There is more than one way of pre- paring these leaf skeletons, but we shall give details here of two only. The first is the most primitive and tedious process, but possesses many advantages over the second and more chemical plan, in spite of the increased amount of patience and attention that it requires. It is based on natural principles, as it were, for the dainty little skeleton leaves that we pick up occasionally, during the course of a woodland ramble, have been prepared by Dame Nature in a very similar manner. The leaves are gathered on a dry day in the sum- mer. July, August, and the early parts of September are the best months, and the leaves chosen should be fully grown and mature, but not old and tough. A few of the most suitable to work upon are the rose, ivy, apple, pear, poplar, vine, fig, and beech. Willow, maple, sycamore, or bramble are satisfactory when done, but require great care. Any spiny leaves, such as those of some species of berberis and holly, must be prepared by themselves, or their spines will injure the others. Some holly leaves, owing to their pretty curved form, are very elegant and delicate, but are not suitable for mounting on any object that has to have a sheet of glass placed over it. Ferns, especially maidenhair, are most charming, but it is well not to attempt such delicate leaves before some amount of experi- ence has been gained. Gather a number of each kind of leaf, as some are sure to get spoilt in the operation. Some seed vessels, such as those of the horse-chesnut or bladder cherry, look well when done and mounted ; in short, we should advise those who are attempt- ing the work to try experiments for themselves ; they will learn more thereby than perusing any amount of written matter on the subject. The leaves must be immersed in a shallow pan full of soft water, placed out of doors, where they will get the benefit of the full glare of the sun. Keep the pan always full to the brim, and place a sheet of glass over the top with a weight upon it, to keep the leaves from rising above the surface of the water. Here they must be left for about a fortnight, and the pan occasionally filled up, to. make up for any water that may have evaporated. At the end of this time they must be carefully overlooked, and any leaves that seem quite pulpy and soft may be taken away and placed in a pan of clean water. The others may require to be left to soak for another week, or even two. In lifting them out of the water, do it very carefully; indeed, the best way is to slip a flat piece of porcelain or glass under them, using it as one would a fish slice. Those that are ready to be reduced to skeletons must be placed in a pan of clean water, and the cleansing process performed as soon as possible. Bru ihes of various kinds are needed for this operation, camel's hair, bristle, paint or tooth brushes, according to the texture of the leaf. Float one of the leaves on to a piece of flat porcelain or a small piece of glass, and pat it gently with one of the brushes to remove all the soft green portions of the leaf that lie between the veins. It is easier to do this part of the business just below the surface of the water, and when a good proportion has been taken off, pour a thin stream of water carefully in a sideways direction over the leaf to remove all the loose portions. Then slip the leaf into the water and turn it over, so that the other side comes uppermost on the glass. Treat this in the same way, and continue the operation until only the framework of the leaf is left behind. Be very careful not to break it anywhere, and hold it up to the light occasionally to see if it is quite perfect. Place the leaves in a basin of clear water to finish cleaning them, and perform the operation of bleaching them as soon as possible. Throw away any of the leaves that are much broken or injured, retaining only the perfect ones, and a few of those that are but little hurt, as they may be useful to mount here and there, between and behind the others. The other way of preparing the leaves is far more rapid, and in its way requires almost as much care and delicacy of manipulation as the process first described. Dissolve 4 ounces of ordinary washing soda in a quart of boiling water, and add to this 2 ounces of slaked quicklime ; let the mixture boil for 20 minutes. Set the solution aside to cool, and strain off the clear liquid into an old pan. Put in the leaves and allow them to simmer in the liquid for about an hour, adding boiling water as the other boils away. Look at the leaves constantly to see if they are getting soft, but be careful not to have any crack or sore place on the fingers, or the soda will possibly inflame it, with dangerous consequences. The leaves that are soft and pulpy must be taken THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, put carefully and put into a vessel full of clean cold water. Brush and rub them gently with a brush and the fingers, and remove all the green, soft portions of the leaf. Wash them frequently in clear cold water ; and when this operation is quite complete, proceed to bleach the leaves. This is done by making a solution of chloride of lime, the strength of which must vary according to the thickness and texture of the leaves. One tablespoonful of chloride of lime to a quart of water is an average proportion ; if used stronger, the leaves will become too brittle, and will breakaway during the operation. When the chloride of lime is thoroughly dissolved, pour off the clear liquid into a glass dish, place the leaves in it, and leave them in a dark cupboard for a day or two. If the mixture is used at once, with the addition of a few drops of vinegar and not strained off, the leaves must only be left in it about a quarter of an hour. After the leaves are bleached, they must be placed in clear cold water for a day or two, then floated off on the useful sheet of glass or card and laid between sheets of clean white blotting-paper, which are placed beneath gentle and even pressure until the leaves are required for use. Any little inequalities and portions of the leaves and stems that have not taken the bleaching process well may be afterwards touched up carefully with a small paint-brush dipped in Chinese white. So much for the process itself; now for a few words on the use to which the leaves may be adapted. First and foremost are fire- screens ornamented with these lace-like leaves. A year or two ago, our shops were selling fire-screens composed of a bamboo stand with dried flowers and ferns laid between two sheets of glass. In a similar way may cur leaves be mounted, but instead of a sheet of glass being used as a background, a thin piece of wood covered with rich blue, crimson, or black satin is preferable. On this the leaves are arranged in an artistic group, each leaf being just touched at the back with a little diamond cement only, to prevent it from slipping until the sheet of glass is placed over it. Large picture-frames and glasses can with very little trouble be converted into standing fire- screens. A large sheet of millboard is required of such a size as will fit nicely into the frame. It must be covered with either satin or velvet and the leaves mounted on it. It is then put into the frame exactly as if it were a picture, and finished off at the back in much the same way. Any cabinet maker will fix this into a simple light stand, and if required still more ornamental, a width of Liberty silk may be taken and draped artistically across the top and down the sides of the frame. Skeleton leaves may also be laid against a window if it is wished to hide an ugly outlook. In this case the glass may either be covered with a sheet of cardboard covered with black paper, or the leaves may be laid directly on the glass and a second sheet of glass fixed over it. Small and delicate leaves can be uti- lised at the side and bottom of photograph frames, of course placed behind the glass. Tiny ferns, small clover, potentilla or rose leaves look charming if arranged at the sides of motu cards, or are equally appropriate as Christmas or birthday cards if arranged on cards with black or tinted backgrounds. They should be stuck on with the smallest amount of starch possible to enable them to remain in their places, and carefully pressed till they are dry. They can also be used to ornament the tops of gipsy tables or the panels of doors, but here again the difficulty arises of having a sheet of glass fixed over them as a protection. For the decoration of small wooden card, glove, or handkerchief boxes they look very pretty, but after they are stuck on, need at least two coats of varnish, and this, of course, destroys their delicate carved-ivory-like appearance. Objects of art under glass cases are now little used in rooms, but as there is a number of people who prefer to use them still, especially in London, a few hints on the arrangement of phantom leaves in this way may close this paper. Take a bung and slope off the upper edge so as to round it evenly at the top. Cut a circular piece of card just large enough to fit on the stand under the glass case, attach the bung in the centre of this card by means of a touch or two of glue. Now fill up the space left between the bung and the edge of the card, by twisting wadding round and round so as to make a sort of miniature mound, sloping downwards from the centre. Lay a small piece of wadding on the top of the cork itself. Cut a circle of rich red velvet about an inch larger all round than the cardboard itself, gather it round with a strong running, lay it over the cardboard and draw it up on the wrong side, as if you were covering a pincushion of enormousproportions. When this is done, it will be more easily seen whether themoundis of even shape and smooth allover; do not fasten off the running till it is quite satisfactory. Finish the gathering at the back by lacing thread across and across, but not tightly enough to mark or warp the cardboard. Glue the velvet- covered foundation firmly and flatly to the stand. Take a stiletto and pierce a number of holes through the velvet into the cork and wadding ready to receive the leaves. These are, as a rule, not strong enough, or do not possess stalks long enough to go in with- out help of artificial stalks. These may be made of wires bent and twisted together to form a sort of branch-like foundation. Finer wire can then be easily added with which to fasten the leaves to the branches. The leaves must be grouped gracefully and lightly, but yet not so that the bouquet looks poor or mean. A branch, to which some of the bruised or broken leaves are attached, may be arranged as a sort of column for the centre. The others grouped round this on all sides will then have a richer appearance. A wreath of small fern or ivy leaves is generally arranged on the velvet round the upstanding ones. The wire used must be painted over with Chinese white, wherever it is at all likely to show. Some workers use actual leafless twigs gathered from the hedges in winter on which to mount the leaves, but it is not always possible to manage this, for the leaves are prepared in the summer, and it is not always convenient to set them aside until the winter DRAWN LINEN. This style of needlework is of great antiquity, and specimens of it are still to be found among the peasantry in Italy and other European countries, where they have been handed down as heirlooms for many generations, and are only used upon exception- ably important occasions. These ancient pieces of work are, however, not to be compared with our modem attempts, for living, as we do now-a-days, at such a rapid pace, we can little afford the expenditure of time, patience and eyesight necessary for the pro- duction of such works of art. The older drawn linen is most elaborate, and is not to be distinguished without close inspection from very fine pieces of Greek guipure and other laces, and its durability is such, that it bears washing and cleaning frequently without suffering any damage. There are cases full of fine old linen work at the South Kensington Museum. It is well for a beginner to practise the various stitches on coarse canvas until she is thoroughly accustomed to drawing the requisite number of threads. In this work it must ever be borne in mind that one tiny snip of the scissors in the wrong place will often irretrievably spoil the result of hours of patient and painstaking work. In learning on canvas, the best way is to utilise coloured thread for the connections and stitches ; any wrong turn is then more easily detected and remedied. The threads of old linen are far more pleasant and easy to draw than are those of new ; indeed, nothing gives better results than a piece of a linen sheet that has been many times washed, yet is not at all thin or worn. The modern linen, however good it may be in quality, is woven with occasional roughnesses and irregularities in the web, which are fatal to any attempt to " draw " the threads ; and not unfrequently it will be found that the dra\vn parts, although containing the same number of threads, will be narrower along the grain of the material than they are across it, or vice versa. Good eyesight, clean and cool hands, neat manipulation, and plenty of patience and perseverance are required for the satisfactory' execution of really good drawn work; but when the difficulties which present themselves at starting are once overcome, many and varied are the uses to which it may be applied. Pillow shams, the upper ends of sheets, sideboard, tea and tray cloths, handkerchiefs, dessert doyleys and almost any kind of household linen may be thus ornamented, provided that it be regularly and evenly woven. Very fine hnen or flax thread is the most suitable to use for this work, but in the following directions we shall call it cotton, to prevent any possible confusion with the threads of the linen itself. To commence operations, cut your piece of linen the size required — we will suppose it is to be a sham for a square pillow, and that it is to be made from an old, suitable piece of linen. The drawn work border, to look well, must be commenced about an inch and a half from the edge of the piece of linen. Coimt eighty threads from the edge and run a red line along to mark the place between the eightieth and eighty-first thread. Do the same on the other three sides of the square, and you will then have a complete square marked out in red cotton on the linen. Begin next at one of the corners, count twenty horizontal threads up from the red line, and snip them with a sharp, finely-pointed pair of scissors ; do the same at the other end of these twenty threads, being careful not to cut the vertical ones, and draw them right out. The easiest way of doing this is to take a very fine needle and to raise the threads one by one with the needle point about an inch from the cut end. This will give a small end with which to pull the rest of the thread out. Draw out all twenty threads, cutting them at the point where they meet the red line at the other end. Repeat this operation on the remaining three sides. The result will now be — a square of linen with a border three-eighths of an inch wide, consisting only of vertical threads and with open squares at the comers. It is of these vertical threads that the pattern is made. The line of red cotton may now be removed, as it is apt to get in the way during future operations. 199 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. » — ^.Sk-J^ Fig. I. ' ^ , Fig. 1. — This shows ' a species of button- '> -I hole stitch which is '-' j3 worked on either side 7.Ji&d£A of the insertion already ' inade,and serves atwo- fold purpose. First, '"that of restraining the ■ " undrawn threads '' Ti from becoming more unravelled ; and second, that of dividing the threads into small groups ready for the next operation. Fasten the end of cotton at the comer on the wrong side, holding the work over the fingers of the left hand so that the threads of the insertion run in the same direction as the lines of the fingers. * Brmg the needle up through the linen two threads from the drawn border, and between the third and fourth of the threads. Keep the cotton under the thumb of the left hand ; put the needle back three threads, and pick up with it six threads. Bring it up again to the right side of the work over the cotton, thus encircling six threads in a sort of chain stitch. Draw the cotton closely, but not tightly enough to pucker the linen, thus enclosing the six threads in a small group. Put the needle in again to the wrong side, and continue from * till the comer is reached. Always remember to pick up the right number of threads, or the work will not be sufficiently regular to look well. The same stitch must be worked on the other side of the insertion, and il will be found easier to execute here than it was on the first side, as the counting is not so difficult to manage, the first row giving a sort of indication where the division of the clusters will come in the second row. Inferior pieces of drawn linen are worked without these two lines of buttonhole stitches, and have a good enough effect. They, however, impart greater firmness to the work ; and, moreover, it is a useful little stitch to be acquainted with ; as if worked on the edge of a piece of linen that is to be fringed out, it keeps the fringe in order, and prevents any further unravelling. Fig. 2. — This shows the simplest of all the open-work stitches, known as " single crossing." The end of cotton is fixed firmly on the wrong side to the linen, but as Fig. 2. the stitches are all carried along the centre of the insertion, the cotton must be run across the threads at the back to the middle, and there secured with a button-hole stitch to keep it in the right position. Bring the needle up from the wrong side between the first and second group of threads, pass it down over the second and third, bring it up between the second and third again, down over the second, and up again between the second and third. Draw the cotton tightly, so that it forms a straight line parallel to the side chain stitches. This forms the first stitch. Pick up the fifth group, pass the needle back over the fourth, and bring it up again between the fifth and sixth, drawing it tightly as before. IxAiiifiAAM/iCOSi Fig. 3. Fig. 3. — This " double crossing " is only a variation of that shown in Fig. 2, and as it draws more threads in a cluster together, it is necessary that a larger number of threads be drawn out, in order that increased " play " be given to the work. Commence at the comer, and have the cotton in position at the centre of the insertion. Pass the needle under the first three, * up between the third and fourth, back over the third, under the first and second, over the first, under the second, over the third, under the fourth, back over the fourth and third, under the second, then down to the wrong side under the next three, and con- tinue from *. 200 Fig. 4 shows how clusters are divided horizont- ally so as to form a kind of network in which to work a darned pattern. The stitches are placed so that they divide the insertion into three. The stitch Fig. 4. is similar to that worked at the edge on Fig. i. The cotton is brought outside the threads and held under the thumb of the left hand, the needle is put to the back of the first cluster over the cotton, thus making a loop, and brought up under the cluster and pulled closely outside the cotton, as in working button-hole stitch. In working this stitch care must be taken not to draw the cotton too tightly between the clusters, as each cluster must be kept straight, not drawn together into groups. The pattern is then worked over these threads in a series of darned squares, the cotton being taken alternately over and under three of the threads until they are closely and evenly covered. All beginnings and finishings off must be made at the back of the work, and the ends of cotton run in and out at the wrong side of the stitches. Fig. 5 represents a similar method of working the same stitch, the difference being that the drawn lines are narrow, only about eight threads wide, and divided by about three threads of undrawn linen, the button- hole stitches of Fig. i being worked only at the extreme edges of the pattern. The cotton is joined in the centre where the three threads of linen have been left undrawn, and the stitch is best worked on the wrong side, beginning at the row of clusters just below the button- holed edge. Pick up the first cluster, put the needle in on the other side of the undrawn threads ; pick up six threads there, then pick up the next cluster on the other side, so that the clusters on either side of the three undrawn threads altemate, and are not directly opposite to each other. If the insertion is not to be embroidered upon, the wrong side may be used as j>.Aji^.-i....f 1/ j-i " the right side, and forms a really f irttwQt^t^'^^Pf ■ ^ charming narrow border, as in Fig. ■1 I 1 |. ■ ■ < f ' ■ 1 6. The darning is executed over only ^K'lO(iOli>rt^tXr:^3^ two bars, but is otherwise almost ,1)0.>f^tU>.;*"I«( identical to that in Fig. 4. Fig. 7 represents a simple way of drawing the threads into clusters by means of ordinary herring-bone stitch Three threads are left undrawn at in- tervals, and the herring-bone stitches are worked over four threads on either side of these three threads. This will be easily under- stood by the help of the sketch and ordinary knowledge of herring- FlG. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7. bone stitch. This stitch is particularly useful for working on canvas and similar coarse-grained material. HO'W TO 3VC.A.iCE LADIES AND CHILDREN'S UNDERCLOTHING. By Mrs. LEACH. 140 illuatrationa of how to cut out; make up and trim every description of Under- gurment for Ladies and Children of all ages. Of all Newsagents, or post free, 2id. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. wSf'im'smMmmm^^^^^^s&s Fig. 8. Fig. 9. e Fig. 8 shows a method of arrang- ing a corner. In most cases a large open square is ob- tained by drawing the threads along each side of the linen that is in process of orna- mentation, and these squares must of necessity be filled up with lace wheels of different kinds. Lace-workers will have a great advantage here in their acquaint- ance with various stitches suitable for this purpose. Another way of filling in corners is shown in Fig. 10. Here the corners are simply filled in by the lines of cotton crossing one another. They are kept in place by one stitch, such as has been detailed in Fig. 4, which must come exactly in the centre. Fig. 9 is a simple little pattern, worked by drawing three threads each way, so that' an arrangement in chequers is obtained. The cotton is then simply darned in and out in a straight line three times, taking care that the stitches are alternately over and under the threads ; the re- sult is a sort of pattern much like the links of a chain, and has the advantage of being particularly easy to execute. !!!ni,'n!?"fi!!)Miin;i!j!Wi!!l!',ilj-:i.-^l!f' Fig. 10. Fig. 10 gives the result of a mixture of drawn work with feather or some other fancy stitch. Three rows of drawn work (without any button-hole stitches) are carried along the sides of the article to be ornamented, alternating with four rows of feather stitch. The open squares are filled in with the simple cross threads before de- scribed, and the solid undrawn squares with double crosses of the cotton worked in the following manner :— Put the needle up from the wrong side in the very centre of the undrawn square, put it back again in the same place and draw it through till it leaves a loop of cotton long enough to reach across the square as far as the corner of it ; do the same on the wrong side, and draw the needle and cotton through the tip of the first made loop before puttmg the needle back again to the right side. Do the same to the other three corners of the little square, and be careful not to draw the loops too tightly, or the work will be puckered and vnll not set flatly. Small doyleys look very elegant if the threads are entirely drawn out in a series of small squares and filled m m this way. Having given as clear a description as possible of the somewhat intricate stitches used in this work, we will leave further and more elaborate patterns for a future paper. Those who master the stitches already given will soon be able to combine them and form a good border. Thus a handsome insertion can be made of the stitch shown in Fig. 4 with that in Fig. 2 worked on either side of it. The cotton used in the models is rather coarse in proportion to the grain of the linen, so as to make the intricacies of the stitches more easy to follow, but the general rule is that the cotton should be the same degree of coarseness. Beginners should not attempt to draw any material finer than canvas, and even of this coarse matenal very elegant curtains or short blinds may be made if the lines of drawn work are carried lengthwise down the material. Some- times the single crossing in Fig. 2 is made so wide that coloured china or even wider ribbon is used instead of cotton. This is very effective for curtains. Charming tea tablecloths can be made of white linen, with all the stitching done with fine white linen thread. Colours may be used if preferred, but the most ancient and niost beautiful pieces of the work are done with white cotton, or, rather, linen or flax thread. Ladies who possess an extra amount of patience may ornament the borders of their pocket-handkerchieft with charming effect, while some dessert doyleys, with a three-inch border all round of drawn work on handkerchief linen, were some of the loveliest pieces of modern needlework we ever saw, and were executed by a lady who had, when she began them, already reached a very advanced age. They had been washed over and over again, and had never suffered in the least during the oft- repeated operation. Macrame Work. {Continued from No. 14.)* No. 33. — The Rockleigh Point. There are three insertions and a scallop to this pattern. It re- quires 32 strings, each to measure 3 yards. First, you put on a foundation cord and knot each thread on to it twice, as fig. 4. Now for the ist insertion : * Take 8 threads, hold the Sth in the left hand, keeping it on the top of the 7th to be knotted, and close up under' the foundation line, and knot each of the 7 on to it twice ; then leave this thread, which now counts as the ist, and again take the Sth, hold it in left hand close up under the former bar, and knot on to it 6, leaving the ist ; again ta ke the Sth and work a 3rd * All the back numbers containing the preliminarj- articles on Macram^ Work are in print, and will be sent on receipt of is. 3d. stamps. THE FANtTi- WORK-BASKET. bar, knotting 5 ; work a 4th bar, knotting 4 threads. M^ke a 5th bar of 3 threads, a 6th bar of 2 threads, a 7th bar of i thread. Now take a small packing needle and thread the 8th string, being the last you knotted, and pass the needle up at the right hand side of the end of the ist bar between the bar and foundation line ; draw the thread up tightly, bring the thread over the bar, and pass the needle up in the same place as before to secure it, then bring the thread down to be knotted on to the next foundation line. This finishes the ist pattern. Repeat from * 7 times, making 8 patterns in the row, then put on the 2nd foundation line, and knot every thread on to it twice. The 2nd insertion requires 16 strings to each pattern. Take 16, divide, and hold 8 in the left hand, slanting it in that direction, and knot the 7th, 6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd and 1st on to it. Do 7 bars, decreasing i thread in every row, as in the ist insertion. Then with the 8 following— 9th, loth, nth, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th and i6th— work a pattern the reverse way. This done, take the 7th, 8th, 9th and loth strings and make a raised picot, as fig. 15. Now hold the 8th in left hand and make a pattern of 7 bars as above it, and the 9th in right and do a 4th pattern. This finishes the ist pattern. Repeat this 3 times along the row and put on the 3rd foundation line, knotting them all on to it. The 3rd insertion is the same as the 1st, worked the reverse way. Instead of always holding the 8th in left hand you always hold the ist in right hand and thread the 1st string instead of the 8th. Now put on the last foundation line and proceed to make the point. Take 8 strings ; hold the ist in right hand, slanting it in that direction. Knot the 2nd, 3rd and 4th on to it. Make a 2nd bar ; hold the 8th in left hand, slanting it in that direction ; knot on the 7th, 6th and 5th. Do another bar ; now with the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th make a raised picot, as fig. 15. Repeat these 4 bars and raised picots all along, then come back to the beginning. Hold the 4th in left hand,, slanting it in that direction, knot the 3rd, 2nd and ist on to it. Do another bar. * Hold the 5th in right hand, knot the 6th, 7th and 8th on to it. Do a 2nd bar. Hold the" 4th of following 8 in leit hand, slanting, and knot the 3rd, 2nd and ist on to it. Do another bar. Make a raised picot with the last 2 of ist 8 and ist 2 of 2nd 8. Re- peat from *, making 7 picots ; then holding the 1st of last 4 in right hand work 2 bars ; hold the 8th in left hand, and with the 7th, 6th and 5th do 2 bars. Hold the 9th in right hand, and with the loth, nth and 12th do 2 bars. Hold the 1 6th in left hand, and with the 15th, 14th and 13th do 2 bars. With the nth, 12th, 13th and 14th make a raised picot. Hold the 17th in right hand, and with the i8th, 19th and 20th do 2 bars. Hold the 24th in left hand, and with the 23rd, 22nd and 21st do 2 bars. With the 19th, 20th, 2 1st and 22nd make a raised picot. Hold the 25th in right hand, and with the 26th, 27th and 28th do'2 bars. Hold the 12th in the left ha.id, and with the i ith, loth and gth do 2 bars. Hold the 13th in right hand, and with the 14th, isth and l6th do 2 bars. Hold the 20th in left hand, and with the 19th, i8th and 17th do 2 bars. With the 15th, i6th, 17th and i8th make a raised picot. Hold the 2 1st in right hand, and with the 22nd, 23rd and 24th do 2 bars. Hold the i6th in left hand, and with the 15th, 14th and i3lhdo2bars. Hold the 17th in right hand, and with the i8th, 19th and 20th do 2 bars. Hold the 32nd in left hand, slanting it in that direction down by the side of the bars ; knot the 31st, 30th and 29th on to it. Leave this thread ; again take the 32nd and knot 31st, 30th, 2gth, 28th, 27th, 26th and 25th on to it. Take the 28th and knot 7 on to it. Take the 24th and knot 7 on to it. Take the 20th and knot 3 on to it. Now to the beginning. Hold the 1st in right hand and knot 2nd, 3rd and 4th on to it. Again take the ist and knot 7 on to it. Take the 5th and knot 7 on to it. Take the 9th and knot 7 on to it. Take the 13th and knot 4 on to it. Now you must leave the ist 32 strings and work the other side to correspond with this. Having done both sides we proceed to the squares which form the centre of the point. Take the 33rd string in left hand, slanting it in that direction, and leaving a little margin at the top, knot on to it the 32nd, 31st, 30th and 29th ; then take the 34thj still in left hand, and work a 2nd bar with the same 4 threads and close up under the ist bar. Take the 35th and work a 3rd bar. Take the 36th and work a 4th bar. This finishes the square. Hold the 37th in left hand, and leaving a little margin from the ist square, also at the top leaving a margin, and knot on to it the same 4 threads, also take the 38th, 39th and 40th as leaders to form the 2nd square. Take the 41st, 42nd, 43rd and 44th as leaders and make a 3rd square. Take the 45th, 46th, 47th and 48th as leaders and make a 4th square. Now count again from the beginning the loose threads and take the 29th in left hand, leaving a little margin, knot on to it the 28th, 27th, 26th and 25th ; with these 4, and the 30th, 31st and 32nd as leaders, do a square. Do 3 squares below this as before. Then take the 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th as leaders and knot on the 24th, 23rd, 22nd and 21st. Do 4 202 more squares, and with the 21st, 22nd, 23rd and 24th as leaders knot on the 20th, 19th, i8th and 17th. Do 4 squares to finish. The ends must then be cut about an inch long, frayed out, and combed. No. 34.— Spill Pocket. This is both useful and ornamental. The I'attern is very pretty, being worked in ivory- oloured twine, and made up over pale blue atin, with cardboard foundation and satin ibbon to match. It takes 28 strings 2J yards each. Knot on to a foundation line, as fig. 4 describes. Thert is one insertion, this requires 8 strings to each pattern or star. Take 8, divide, hold the 4th in lef. hand, slanting it in that direction, and knot the 3rd, 2nd and 1st on to it. ; Leave this string and again take the 4th, and close under this bar knot the 3rd and 2nd strings ; again take the 4th and knot the 3rd on to it. Hold the 5th in right hand, slanting it in that direction, and knot the 6th, 7th and 8th on to it. Hold the 5th again and knot the 6th and 7th on to it. Hold the 5th again and knot the 6th on to it. Hold the 5th in left hand and knot the 4th, 3rd, 2nd and ist on to it. Hold 3q} 4th in left hand close up and knot the 3rd and 2nd on to it. Hold the 4th in same hand again and knot the 3rd on to it. Hold the 5th in right hand and knot the 6th, 7th ind 8th on to it. Hold the 5th again, knot Dn the 6th and 7th. Again, and knot on the 5th. This finishes the star. Work 6 more .he same, then put on the second foundation line and knot every thread on to it. Now divide the strings, 26 for each side and 4 for the centre. * Hold the 2nd and 3rd in right hand and with the ist in left hand work 7 buttonhole stitches, as fig. 7. Take the 26th in left hand, slant- ing it in that direction, and bringing it just under the 7 buttonhole stitches, knot the 25th and right down to the ist on to it. Again take the 26th and work a 2nd bar, leaving i string at the end, and repeat from *. Do this until you have 9 scallops of buttonholes and 18 bars. This should come into the centre. Work the other 26 strings the reverse way to correspond. Now for the centre. Work 5 twist stitches, as fig. 8, then 3 Solomon's knots, as fig. 9. Repeat the twist and knots twice, then work 2 strands of single chain, as fig. 5, 30 stitches in each strand. The 2 sides are joined by tying the 26 strings on each side evenly together at the back, then bring down the centre and tie securely all round and cut off, leaving a tassel 3 inches long. Now to make up the pocket. You must cut a cardboard the size of the work, then a second one the same length, but 2 inches narrower, for the back. Cover them with satin, stitch the work on the part, join front to back, and finish with ribbon bows. You will require one yard of ribbon, EFFECTIVE NEEDLEWORK, We all aim at effect in these days of high art, and needlework is one of the chief mediums by which the taste for decoration may be gratified. The Decorative Needlework Society has done a great deal towards bringing many beautiful designs to be carried out with silks, crewels, &c., to our notice, but we are often lost in wonder- ment when gazing upon the artistic objects worked by the members. The colouring is the principal thing in the conventional style so much affected, either in flowers or scroll work. Beautiful as it is, many ladies hesitate to take it in hand, for it seems endless, and to some the many shades of colour are trying to the eyes. For that reason various pieces of satin cut out in the shape of scrolls or leaves, and appliqu6d on to velvet or cloth, with silks in tones har- monising with the materials, is preferred. Another reason it is quickly done. A style of work that has all the appearance of the richest embroidery, without the length of time required for it, is a kind we should advise our readers to try. That is handsome cre- tonne cut carefully out, stuck on velveteen or cloth, and simply worked over with silks matching the flowers or design of the cretonne. One model was a stripe of various flowers and their leaves, stuck on deep maroon cloth, and mounted on plush to form a mantel drapery. The silks used were shaded, thereby the trouble of blending was prevented. Charming antimacassars may be made in this style of work, edged round with coffee tinted furniture lace. Wide satin ribbon answers for the foundation ; ours measured ten THE FANCY WORK-BASKET inches in width, and the lace six. The colour was peacock blue, and the effect was very. charming. This is a quick way of doing a tablecloth border cheaply, and has all the appearance of embroidery. Should any of our readers care to try the effect, we shall be happy to give turther particulars through these columns, or send specimen. Another quickly executed style is deep furniture lace, with the pattern outlined with tinsel cord, the other part worked over with silk and put over bright satin to showit up. For a mantel board a band of plush should be at the top, and the bottom piece vandyked and edged with ball fringe. The Indian stars worked in couchings of filoselle, radiating from the centre, is also quick and artistic. Stamped velveteen lends itself admirably to art needlework, the leaves only require to be veined with gold cord or silk, and the centres of the flowers filled up with French knots. If these cannot be made, beads answer, but the knots are more in keeping with the style of work. These knots are made by passing the needle through the centre, and taking a turn of the silk round the needle, and then returning it in the same spot, when a little loaf-like excrescence will be the result. Very effective and quickly made articles can be manufactured trom perforated imitation leather. Newspaper racks, wall pockets, match holders, letter wall pockets and racks, flower pot covers, with many other useful things, can be procured in this cheap material. They are just the thing for bazaars ; the newspaper cases to hang up are only a is. or even less ; lined with blue or cardinal sateen, with a few bows of ribbon, and to save time, a bunch of fancy coloured grasses, instead of painting or needlework, you have something useful as well as pretty. Pretty stove ornaments can be formed by sticking firmly a wicker basket filled with imitation flowers or grass on to the perforated material, which costs about 8|rf. The basket should be cut in half. The other half should be filled with moss and flowers and fastened to a piece of stiff cardboard covered with leather-paper and bordered with a band of gold ditto. To buy this kind of orna- ment ready made the price is from 7s. 6d. Hand screens are made also which admit of various styles of effective decoration at little cost or trouble. To be " Jubilee," put a likeness of the Queen on one, and the Royal Arms on the other, surrounded with a pleating of ribbon, and a bow on the handles. It is sure to go off well on a bazaar stall. BREAKFAST TRAY CLOTHS. These pretty white washing cloths are so simple and useful for sending up to an invalid, we are sure directions for making them will be found acceptable to many housekeepers, and those who have the care of invalids, for certainly a breakfast, or, indeed, any meal served up temptingly, goes far to help the invalid in taking it. The most suitable materials for them are marcella, pique, or white flowered damask; you will require half a yard for a small tray, three quarters of a yard if a large size. Place the material flat on a table, then lay the tray on the wrong side, and pencil round the tray; of course you must allow sufficient turning beyond the pencil marking for the hem, which must be neatly done all round. Procure about four -•^irds of strong washing lace two inches wide, torchon or everlasting embroidery is most suitable ; sew it on full round the cloth, as it will shrink when washed, work a row of feather or coral stitch in crochet cotton No. 6 all round to hide the hemstitch, and as a pretty finish to the cloth. It is then ready for use. Your monogram can be worked in the centre if liked. Fish, cheese, cake and tart d'oyleys can be made in the same way, all to be cut to size of dishes they are required for. Fine linen diaper is the best material to use for these, and a narrower lace crochet edging worked finely looks very nice, and is, of course, strong. PINAFORE MADE OF ONE HANDKERCHIEF. A good sized handkerchief should be chosen for this pattern, or else the little garment is apt to become rather miniature. A man's ordinary cotton handkerchief does very well, red ground with white spots, and a broad white line for the border. Five yards of narrow lace are required for the edging. Cut the border off one side of the handkerchief, and also a strip about i J inches wide irom the same side. Fold the handkerchief in halt, and again in quarters, and at the two quarters cut about half way down from the neck end, which is where the border and strip were taken off. From the top of these slits, slope off about 2t,- inches for the shoulders and join them in the usual way. Cut out the armholes a little, so as not to have them quite straight, and hem round the openings. The strip cut off beyond the border serves for the neck, but will not all be required, as the pinafore must be gathered just a little into it. Take the border and cut it in half to form the two waistbands. Each must be folded in half and stitched together and lace sewn on all round. Sew the lace on a little full round the armholes and neck and all round the pinafore. It can be carried straight on from the neck without cut- ting off. Draw up the pinafore a little just under the arms and sew on the waistbands at the same place. Add button and buttonhole on the bands, and run narrow tape through the neck. *********-**-^***-^* The " Cliristtan Herald " says : "Mrs. Leach's liooka are the pioneers of DRESSMAKING AT ; HOME.' ■ 200 pairs of aioves - GIVEN A"WAY See Mrs. LEACH'S. .- EAMILT '■■;:^'-^. BKESSMAKER. [ . Monthly, price 2d. All News- ', agents, or post free, S stamps. . -. ,^*,******-^*******f*-^-^*** A Paper Pattern given away with every Number. PRICE Id. Mrs. LEACH'S Children's Dressmaker PuUUhed on the 10th of the Month Jor the Month foil owing. How to Cut out, Make and Trim Jliintles, Costumes, &c., for Children and Youn^ Ladies of all ages. All Newsagents, or post free, two stamps. 203 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Knitting. JERSEY VEST. This vest will fit a very stout figure, and is knitted in i piece on 2 wooden needles No. 7. It takes J lb. 3 ply fingering wool. If this make is thought too rough Andalusian or merino can be used, but 3 ply fingering washes best and is most suitable. Any small pattern can be employed, or the vest can be ribbed or knitted plain. Our model was knitted in the following pattern *. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — knit I, purl i all along ; repeat from * taking care to keep the knitted and purled stitches in perpendicular rows. No further no tice is taken of the pattern throughout the directions, which are given as if for plain knitting. Cast on 100 stitches, knit 3 rows plain, * take 2 together after the first and before the last stitch of the next row, knit 3 rows ; repeat from * till you have only 90 stitches on the needle, knit 90 rows. 91st row — In this row you commence bust gusset, knit 33 stitches,_make a stitch by knitting the back half of 33rd stitch before taking it off the needle. Knit i, make a stitch, knit 22, make a stitch, knit i,make a stitch, knit 33. 92nd row— knit plain. 93rd row— knit 33, make a stitch, knit 3, make a stitch, knit 22, make a stitch, knit 3, make a stitch, knit 33. 94tli row— knit plain. 95th. row — knit 33, make a stitch, knit 5, make a stitch, knit 22, make a stitch, knit 5, make a stitch, knit 33. 96th row— knit plain. 97tli row- knit 33, make a stitch, knit 7, make a stitch, knit 22, make a stitch, knit 7, make a stitch, knit 33. 98th row — knit plain. 99th row —knit 33, make a stitch, knit 9, make a stitch, knit 22, make a stitch, knit 9, make a stitch, knit 33. 100th. row— knit plain. 101st row— knit 33, make a stitch, knit 11, make a stitch, knit 22, make a stitch, knit 1 1, make a stitch, knit 33. 102nd row— knit plain. 103rd row — knit 33, make a stitch, knit 13, make a stitch, knit 22, make a stitch, knit 13, make a stitch, knit 33. 104th row— knit plain. In 105th row — begin the vent in front, knit 61, turn and to form edge of vent, omit all pattern, and knit the first 8 stitches, finish row. In 107th row— knit the last 8 stitches, continue the 8 edge stitches in this way all the way up to the neck. Knit 24 rows without any alteration in the number of stitches. In 131st row — commence to narrow the bust gusset. The narrowings are made on the same plan as the increases, except that you knit 2 rows between them instead of I . In every 3rd row, take 2 together at each side of the gusset. In this row you also commence to form the gusset for the sleeve. It is made by making a stitch in every 2nd row at the edge of the vest which comes under the arm. When you come to the end of the 154th row, cast on 20 stitches for sleeve. The gusset is now finished, and, of course, you do not increase the stitches further. You should now have 86 stitches on your needle, knit 21 rows. You now commence shaping the neck by casting off the 8 stitches at the front vent. Finish row, * next row plain, next row, cast off 3, and finish row ; repeat from * 3 times, knit 20 plain rows, and then slip all the stitches on to a thread or spare needle till required. Commence 2nd front by picking up 8 stitches along Ihe right side of the ist row of vent. These stitches will form the edge of the vent, and will overlap the ist edge, knit to end of row. Continue the 2nd front to correspond with the first, commencing at the 105th row. In the edge of the 2nd front 2 buttonholes must be made as follows : — knit ist 3 stitches of edge, put thread over needle, take 2 together. There should be a buttonhole in the 35th and 69th 204 rows of the edge. Back. — After knitting the 20 plain rows to form the 2nd shoulder, your wool should be at the neck of the vest. Cast on 30 stitches, and then knit the stitches which you put on a spare needle at the completion of the ist front. You will now have 162 stitches on the needle, knit 36 plain rows. 37th row — cast off 20, knit to end. 38th row — cast off 20, knit to end. 39th row- knit plain. 40th row — knit i, knit 2 together, knit to within 3 of the end of the needle, knit 2 together, knit i ; repeat 39th and 40th rows till you have only 90 stitches left on the needle. Knit 131 rows, make a stitch at the beginning and end of every 4th row till you have 100 stitches, knit 3 rows and cast off. Sew up the sides of the vest stitch by stitch, and leave your thread very loose, so that the seam will stretch. For neck, pick up the stitches all round with No. ir steel needles. There should be about 90 stitches. 1st row — purl. 2nd row — make a row of holes for a string by knitting 4, putting the wool over the needle, and taking 2 together all along. 3rd row — knit 2, purl 2 all along. This forms a rib like the top of a sock, and should be continued for 3 more rows. Cast oft loosely. Pick up the stitches round the edge of the sleeve with No. 1 1 needles and rib 8 rows the same as at the neck ; cast off. Round the bottom of the vest work any narrow crochet edge. The following is suitable, take a fine crochet needle, and work i double, * miss 2 stitches, 2 treble into the next, 3 chain, 2 treble into the same stitch as last, miss 2, i double into next stitch ; repeat from * all round. Fasten off. Crochet a string for the neck as follows : — 3 chain, 2 treble into ist stitch, * turn, 3 chain, 2 treble in last 3 chain loop ; repeat from * till you have a length of J yard. Fasten off, and put it through the holes in the neck, sew on 2 buttons, and the vest is complete. CHILD'S VEST FOR SUMMER WEAR. Our model was knitted with a pale shade of oleander pink Shetland wool, best quality, 2 skeins of which are required for the vest, i yard of white sarcenet ribbon J inch wide, 2 bone knit- ting needles, No. 8, gauged by H. Walker's Bell Gauge, and a bone crochet hook. No. 13 by same gauge. This dainty little vest would fit a child ot 2 or 3 years old. The same pattern knitted with 4 ply finger- ing or Lady Betty wool would make a warmer and thicker vest, and would fit a child of from 4 to 5 years old, using the same sized needles as directed for the Shetland wool. 5 skeins of the fingering wool, and I skein of white merino for the edging round the neck and sleeves would make 2 vests. Cast on 82 stitches. 1st row — knit plain all but the last 3 stitches, which are knitted thus : make a stitch by putting the wool over the needle, knit i plain, make i, knit 2 together. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — same as the ist row. 4th row^purl. 5th row — same as the 1st row. 6th row — cast off 3 stitches, knit the remaining stitches plain. 7th row — purl. 8th row — plain. 9th row — purl. 10th row — plain. The first pattern is now completed. Knit 5 rows the same as the first 5 rows of the vest, casting off 12 stitches (for shoulder) at the beginning of the 5th of the last 5 rows. Knit the next 5 rows same as the 2nd 5 rows of vest (from 6th to the end of the loth row). The 2nd pat- tern is now completed. Knit 7 patterns more, then cast on 12 stitches for the 2nd shoulder, and knit 14 rows to correspond with the first 14 rows of the vest ; cast off 20 stitches for the armhole, and knit the remaining stitches the same as the ist row of the vest. The first half of the vest is now knitted. For second half knit thus : 1st row — cast off 3 stitches, and knit the remaining 61 stitches plain ; cast on, on the same needle for the 2nd side of the armhole, • 20 stitches. 2ad row — repeat from the ist row of the vest to thw.^ THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. end of the first half of the vest, but casting off all the stitches instead of 20. Sew up the cast on and the cast off rows together, leaving 20 stitches at the top for the 2nd armhole. For the edging round the neck and sleeves, crochet thus: commence at the centre of the vest at the neck, * i treble, 2 chain, miss i of the knitted stitches of the vest ; repeat from * all round. 2nd round — * i treble over the 2 chain of last round, 3 chain, i double into the 1st of the 3 chain just worked, i treble over same 2 chain as the last treble was worked over, 3 chain, i double in the ist of the 3 chain last worked, i treble over the same 2 chain as the last treble was worked over,- 3 chain, i double in the ist of the 3 chain last worked, i treble over the same 2 chain as the last treble was worked over, i double over the next 2 chain ; repeat from * all round. Work round the armholes to match the neck, and put the ribbon through the holes in the ist round of the edge at the neck, and tie in a neat bow. COMBINATION VEST AND PETTICOAT. For Child of 3 to 6 Years. Materials required:— i of a lb. of grey Scotch yarn, 3 ozs. of car- dinal, 2 bone knitting pins. No. 10, and 2 bone crochet hooks, Nos. II and 15, Walker's Bell Gauge. Begin for the vest by casting on 40 stitches. On one of the knitting pins work 4 plain, 4 purl alter- nately, to form wide ribs ; continue working each row the same ending with purl and beginning with plain, until the piece measures 1 1 inches. Cast off moderately loose and work another piece in exactly the same way. Join up the 2 pieces together for 6 stitches to form the shoulders with a needle and wool, or a crochet slipstitch is best. Leave about 4i inches open for armhole, and join the rest down to the bottom. You must now crochet round the armhole to foriii an edge, with cardinal wool, and hook No. 1 5, 3 treble i chain into every other stitch, making 12 sets of i chain, 3 treble round. 2nd row — 7 chain into the ist hole made by the i chain in previous row, catch back the last stitch into the 4th stitch to form a picot, I treble into same hole, i treble into next hole, 4 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain to form a second picot, i treble into same hole ; repeat in this way all round. Work the other arm- hole in same way. Work exactly the same edge round the neck when the vest part will be finished. It slips over the child's head,' avoiding strings or buttons. For the skirt, or petticoat, fasten on the grey wool at centre of back ; use the coarse hook. No. 1 1. 1st row— I chain, i treble all round at equal distances, making 40 holes ; join, slip back wool into the last hole. 2nd row — 5 chain to forrn 1 treble, work another I treble into same hole, i chain, 2 i '_^b'.» into every hole all round ; every row is joined. 3rd row ime. 4tlx row— same. 5tti row— i chain, 3 treble into every hole, this increases it a little. 6th row— same. 7th row— same. 8th. row— same. 9th row— same. 10th row— same, llth row — same. 12th row— with cardinal wool work 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into every hole, no chain between the holes. 13th row- same in cardinal. 14th row— same in cardinal. 15th row- same in grey. 16th row— same in grey. 17th row— same in grey. 18th row- same in cardinal. 19th row— same in cardinal. 20th row— same in cardinal. 21st row— you work in cardinal a scalloped edge of 7 long treble into every hole all round, and i double crochet stitch into the space between each hole. This. completes a very useful garment, and has the great advantage to many workers of being so simple and quickly made. A NEW WAY OF MAKING THE EMIGRANT'S VEST, OR HUG-ME-TIGHT. i lb. of single Berlin ; pins No. S. Cast on with 2 pins 50 stitches. Knit these 50 stitches plain until you have used up i oz. of wool. Then put on Jo stitches on your needle, making 100, picking up the stitches from the ist row, beginning at the same side where you have just left off. Now knit these 100 stitches until you have only I oz. of wool left. Casf off 50 stitches and knit till you have only enough wool left to join up. This may by done at the same time that you case off the last 50 stitches, or you may sew it up after casting off the stitches. This plan obviates the ugly join across the back, and has exactly the same result. CHILD'S SUMMER VEST. This vest fits a child of four, and is high necked, ^vith short sleeves. Three skeins of Shetland wool and 3 bone needles No. 9 will be required. Cast on 80 stitches. 1st row— knit 2, purl 2 all along. 2nd row — purl 2, knit 2 ; repeat ist and 2nd rows four times more ; knit 160 rows plain. For shoulder — knit the first 26 stitches of next row t, turn and knit 4 more rows. For slope of neck * cast on 4 stitches, turn and knit 2 rows ; repeat from * twice more. Cast on 8 stitches and knit 94 rows ; you should have 46 stitches on your needle. Break off the wool, leaving a few inches. Take the third needle and knit the 26 stitches on the 2nd shoulder, leaving 28 stitches for the back of the neck ; knit from t, but at the edge of the front vent make 4 buttonholes (one in each of the fol- lowing rows, 3rd, 25th, 47th and 69th), as follows : knit 5, put wool oyer the needle and take 2 together ; when you come to within 12 stitches of the end of the 94th row, put these 12 stitches on the spare needle (you can slip the stitches at the neck on to a piece of thread). Lay these 12 stitches besides the 12 stitches next the front of the 94th row of the first front of the vest, so that the 2 edges will overlap, knit a stitch off each needle together twelve times ; finish row. You should now have 80 stitches on the needle. Knit 54 rows quite plain ; repeat the ist and 2nd rows of the vest five times and cast off loosely. For the sleeve — commence on the side edge of the vest on the 109th row from the ribbing, pick up a stitch on every 2nd row, and after every 4th stitch make a stitch by putting the wool over needle. The stitches should end on the 109th row counting from the other ribbing, and there should be about 60 stitches on the needle. Turn and knit plain, taking 2 together at the end of each of the next 4 rows, take 2 together at the beginning and end of each of the next 8 rows, 10 rows quite plain, 10 rows of ribbing the same as you knit at the beginning of the vest. Cast off 205 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. loosely. Knit a second sleeve exactly the same as the first. For neck — pick up stitches all round the top of the left front, knit the stitches at the back of the neck and pick up stitches round the right front. There should be about 70 stitches all round. Knit 2 rows plain. Next row * knit 4, put the wool over the needle and take 2 together ; repeat from * all round ; rib 4 rows same as at the lieginning of the vest, cast off loosely. Make a string for the holes round the neck by crocheting a chain sufficiently long to tie in front, work I double into each chain stitch. Fasten off. Sew the vest very loosely up the sides, taking stitch by stitch, so that the rows will be joined evenly ; sew on 4 small buttons and the vest is complete. BABY'S BOOTIKIN. Requires ij ounces of white Berlin wool and ^ oz. of pale blue. 2 bone knitting pins No. 12. These bootikins, which are long enough to reach nearly to the knee, are knitted plain until the top, which is done in fancy ribbing. It is begun at the toe. With white, cast on 5 stitches, and increase i stitch at the beginning of every row till there are 29 stitches. Work 18 rows without increasing. Next row — knit 10 stitches and pass the rest off on to a piece of wool. Knit these 10 stitches for 24 rows and cast off. Then knit the cor- responding 10 stitches at the other end of the row for 24 rows and east off. Pick up 12 stitches along the 24 rows just knitted, take the 9 stitches left unknitted between the 2 tens, and 12 stitches along the other 24 rows. Knit 2 rows. Knit a row of holes, made by knitting 2, wool over, knit 2 together, and repeat to the end of the row. Knit 10 rows. Then increase every 4th row, increasing both at the beginning and the end of the row. Knit 12 rows without increasing. Then work the fancy stitch. Knit 2, purl 2, and repeat to the end of the row, ending with knit 2, purl I. Repeat this row 8 times. Knit 2 rows plain, knit a row of holes, knit 2 rows plain, knit 8 rows of the fancy pattern as before. Knit I row plain, and cast off. With blue make a crochet scallop along the top, i double, miss 2, 5 treble into the next stitch, miss 2, and repeat. Then work the stars in blue wool. There are 3 rows between the ankle and the 1st fancy pattern. Each star should cover 4 ribs of the plain knitting. The 1st row comes directly below the fancy pattern and has 7 stars, the next row 6 stars, the next row 5 stars. Work 3 stars straight down the instep, and 2 stars on each side of these 3. Work 2 stars each side between the instep and the heel. For the sole — cast on 5 stitches, increase at the beginning of every row to 10 stitches, work 40 without increasing. Decrease every row to 5 stitches and cast off. Sew up the bootikin down the leg, and sew the sole in. Make cords of blue wool in chain stitch and run them in the 2 rows of holes. Add tufts of blue at each end of the cords. Make the tufts by winding the wool about 20 times over 2 fingers, slip it off and tie firmly in the middle and fasten the tufts to the ends ot the chain. The tufts are not clipped, but the wool left uncut to resemble a rosette. 206 TOBACCO POUCH. A Nice Present for a Gentleman. Materials required: 3 balls of Walter Evans & Co.'s Maltese thread, No. 10, of any three shades preferred; our model was knitted with a deep red, old gold, and brown. With the red thread cast on 100 stitches, using 4 steel knitting needles. No. 14, gauged by H. Walker's Bell Gauge. Knit 5 rounds plain. 6th. round — * make 2 stitches by putting the thread twice round the needle, slip I stitch, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together; repeat from * all round. 7th. round — knit I stitch plain, * purl i, knit 2 plain ; repeat from * all round. Knit 5 more rounds plain. 13tli round — * knit 2 together, make 2, same way as in 6th round, knit 2 together ; repeat from * all round. 14th. round — knit plain, join on brown thread and fasten off the red thread. The pattern, which is a sort of plait, is now commenced, and is knitted in squares, which form the pattern. For the ist round of squares, with the brown thread * knit 4 stitches plain, make i stitch by lifting a loop from the round below and knitting it as a stitch, knit 2 together, turn the work, so as to have the wrong side of it towards you, purl 6 stitches, turn the work again, knit 4 stitches plain, knit 3 stitches together, turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, turn the work, purl 5, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together ; repeat from *, taking the next stitches on the 14th round for the next square till all the stitches of the 14th round are knitted. There should be 10 squares in the round. Join on the old gold thread and fasten off the brown thread. With the gold thread for the 2nd round of squares, f pick up 5 stitches on the side of the brown square last knitted, holding the wrong side of the work towards you, purling each stitch as it is picked up, turn the work, * knit 5 plain stitches, turn the work, purl 4 stitches, purl 2 together (taking a stitch of the old gold thread and the brown together), turn the work, and repeat from * 4 times more, and then repeat from f all round, taking the next brown square. For the 3rd round of squares, turn the work, having fastened off the old gold thread, join on the red thread, t pick up 5 stitches on the side of the square of old gold colour, knit- ting each stitch as it is picked up, * turn the work, purl 5 stitches, turn the work, knit 4 stitches, knit 2 together (a red stitch and an old gold colour), repeat from * 4 times more, then repeat from f, taking the next square of old gold colour, to the end of the round. Continue knitting rounds of squares the same as 2nd and 3rd rounds of squares, changing the colours as they come in order, thus: brown, old gold, and red, until there are 12 rounds of squares knitted altogether, ending with the red. For the bottom of the pouch knit with the red thread, having the right side of the work towards you, 5 plain stitches, pick up 3 stitches down the side of the square, knitting each stitch as it is picked up; repeat from * all round. There should be So stitches on the needles. Next round, whic!:^ will be the 2nd round of the bottom of the pouch, * knit 6 stitches THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. plain, knit 2 together, repeat from * all round. 8rd round — knit plain. 4th. round — * knit S stitches plain, knit 2 together : repeat from * all round. 6th roimd — knit plain. 6th round — * knit 4 stitches plain, knit 2 together ; repeat from * all round, 7th round — knit plain. 8th. round — * knit 3 stitches plain, knit 2 to- gether ; repeat from * all round. 9th round — knit plain. 10th round — * knit 2 stitches plain, knit 2 together ; repeat from * all round. 11th round— knit plain. 12th round — * knit 1 stitch plain, knit 2 together ; repeat from * all round. 13th round — knit plain. 14th round — * knit 2 together ; repeat from * all round. 15th round — knit plain. 16th round — * knit 2 together ; repeat from * all round. Take a needle, and having broken off the thread, leaving about 2 finger lengths, thread it, and draw the thread through all the stitches on the needles, then pull the thread tightly and fasten off, taking care to secure it well. To make up the pouch. With a piece of good thick silk the same shade as the red thread and the same size as the pouch, cutting a circle for the bottom, make it into a bag and place it inside the pouch, putting the wrong side of the silk bag to the wrong side of the pouch. Turn down the ist 5 rounds of the pouch, and hem it on the silk lining. Secure it at the bottom with a few small stitches to keep the lining in its place. For the cord, take the three colours with which the pouch was knitted, and with them, using the 3 threads together, cast on 1 10 stitches, using the needles 14. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row— purl. 3rd row — plain. Cast off and put through the holes of the pouch; at the 13th round make a tassel with the threads for each end of the cord and sew them on. This pouch will hold about 2 ounces of tobacco, and would be greatly improved by having a second lining of either oiled silk or India rubber. CUFFS.— PLAIT PATTERN FOR TWO COLOURS. Materials required : — i skein of black and white partridge, 4-ply fingering wool, I skein of a pretty pink or any colour pre- ferred of the same kind of wool, and 4 knitting needles. No. 15, gauged by H.Walker's Bell Gauge. If a tight knitter, use needles No. 14. With the partridge wool cast on 58 stitches and knit i plain and i purl for 5 rounds ; then join on the coloured wool and * knit 4 plain stitches, make i by lifting a loop from the last round and knitting it as a stitch. Repeat from * all round. There should ,, „ now be 73 stitches on the needles. I'or 1st round of squares with the coloured wool * knit 4 plam, make i same way as in 6th round, knit 2 together, turn the work so that the wrong side will be towards you, purl 6 turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 3 together, turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plam, knit 2 together, turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together. This completes the ist square. Repeat from * for the 2nd and succeeding squares till 8 squares are worked. Turn the work. The wrong side of the work should be towards you. With the partridge wool ** pick up 5 stitches down me side of the ist square, purling each stitch as it is picked up. 1 he 2nd round of squares is now commenced. Turn the work * knit 5 stitches plain, turn the work, purl 4 stitches, purl 2 together, turn the work, repeat from * 4 times more ; then repeat from ** picking up the stitches from the next square instead of the ist square of the round. For the next round of squares take the coloured wool, and ** pick up 5 stitches down the side of the square of last round, knitting each stitch as it is picked up, * turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together. Repeat from * 4 times more ; then repeat from ** all round. Continue knitting the alternate rounds of squares till the cuff is as long as wished, ending with a round of squares in the coloured wool, which are isnitted thus—* pick up the 5 stitches as before directed, turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, turn the work, pur 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, turn the work, purl s turn the work, knit 7 plain. Repeat from * all round. 1 here should now be 56 stitches on the needles. With the partridge yool knit a plain round, increasing i stitch at the beginning, and i stitch in the middle of the round, which will give 58 stitches to correspond with the number cast on. Knit 5 rounds in I plain, I purl, and cast off. Our model cuff had 7 rounds of squares, 4 coloured and 3 of partridge wool. Silk could be used for a handsomer cuff, or if wool would be considered too warm. OVAL AND DIAMOND PATTERN. Materials : Andalusian wool, and wood knitting pins No. 2 Walker's Gauge. Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 6._ 1st row— * knit i, make i, knit 2 together at the back, knit I, knit 2 together, make I. Repeat from * to end of the row 2nd row— purl. 3rd row—* knit i, make i, knit 2 together at the back, knit I, knit 2 together, make i, repeat from* to the end of the row 4th row— all purl. 5th row—* knit i, make i, knit 2 together at the back, knit i, knit 2 together, make i, repeat from * to end of the row. 6th row— all purl. 7th row— * knit 2, make i, knit 3 together, make i,knit i, repeat from*to endof the row. 8th row— all purl. 9th row—* knit I, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together at the back, repeat from * to the end of the row. 10th row— all purl, 11th row— knit 3 together, * make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3 together, repeat from *; at the end of this row leave out the made stitch and knit i. 12th row— purl. Now be<^in a^-ain at 1st row. ° AFGHAN PATTERN. You will want 2 knitting pins No. 7, and 2 colours of wool, scarlet and white are pretty, or for the Jubilee year red, white, and blue would look well. Cast on 17 stitches and knit back, or for larger stripe 21 stitches, * put the wool before the pin to make a stitch, and knit 7 stitches, always knit not slip the ist stitch, slip i, knit I, then draw the slip stitch over the knit stitch, knit the remaining 8 stitches plain. Repeat from * for 32 rows, then fasten on the other colour trom the same side you commenced, and knit 32 rows as before ; the pattern piece has only 15, and would be nice for a bas- sinette cover. Knit hke this until you have 12 patterns, 6 of each colour. If 21 stitches are cast on, make i, knit 9 plain, slip i, knit I, draw over and knit the 10 plain. 15 stripes complete the Afghan. Begin each stripe with a different colour, so as they join well. Crochet the stripes together with either a slipstitch or double crochet stitch. Tassels are to be put in the points instead of fringe. •707 THE FANCl? WORK-BASKET. CANE PATTERN. Stitches must divide by 4. Andalusian wool and wood pins, No. 2, Wallier's Gauge. 1st row— make i, knit i, make 1, knit 3 ; repeat to end of row. 2nd row — all purl. 3rd row — knit 3, make i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together, make i ; repeat. 4tli row — purl. Sth. row — make i, slip i, knit 3 together, pass slipped stitch over, make i, knit 3 ; repeat. 6th row — purl. 7th. row — knit 3, make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted together, make i ; repeat. 8th. row — purl. 9th. row — make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make i, knit 3 ; repeat. 10th. row — purl. Re- peat from the 3rd row. In using this pattern for a shawl it is best to knit a few plain rows, also to leave about 5 plain knitted stitches at each side, and finish with plain rows. WIDE INSERTION. Materials : Coats' crochet cotton No. 18, pins No. 17, Walker's Gauge. Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row— slip i, make i, knit 2 to- I'ether twice, make i, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make i,knit 2 together, knit r, make i, knit 2 together. 2nd row— slip i, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, knit I, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 7, knit I and purl I in the made stitch, knit 7, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, make I, knit 2 together. 3rd row— slip i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together twice, make t, knit 2 together, knit 8, make i, knit 2 together. 4tli —slip 208, I, make i, knit 2 together, knit 8, knit i, and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, knit i, and purl i in the made stitch, knit 9, make i, knit 2 together. 5th. row — slip i, make I, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2 together, knit 6, make i, knit 2 to- gether. 6th row — slip i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit I and purl I in the made stitch, knit 2, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 7, make I, knit 2 toge- ther. 7th row — slip i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 to- gether, make i, knit 2 together twice, make I, knit 2 together, knit 8, make i, knit 2 together. 8th row — slip i, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, knit 8, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, knit i and purl I in the made stitch, knit 9, make i, knit 2 together. 9th. row — slip I, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 toge- ther, make I, knit 2 together, knit i, make I, knit 2 together. 10th row — slip I, make i, knit 2 together, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 7, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 7, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together. 11th row — slip I, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 10, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 to- gether, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together. 12tii row — slip i, make I, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit I and purl I in the made stitch, knit 12, knit I, and purl i in the made stitch, knit 4, make i, knit 2 to- gether. 13th row — slip i, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 toge- ther, make i, knit 2 together twice, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit 2 together. 14th row — slip i, make i, knit 2 toge- ther, knit I, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, knit i and purl I in the made stitch, knit 8, knit i, and purl I in the made stitch, knit 2, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together. 15th row — slip i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 10, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together. 16th row — slip I, make i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit I and purl i in the made stitch, knit 12, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 4, make i, knit 2 together. Repeat from the ist row. This pattern would be very nice for a shawl, with proper number of stitches to repeat the pattern in width, but the edge stripe would be best left out. INSERTION. Materials required : boar's head cotton No. 12, pins No. 17, Walker's Gauge. Cast on 17 stitches. 1st row — knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2. 2nd row— knit i, knit 2 together, purl I, knit 10, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. 3rd row— knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2. 4th row— knit i, knit 2 together, purl I, knit 10, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. 5th row— knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 3 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, cotton twice over, knit 2. 6th row — knit i, knit 2 together, purl I, knit 10, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. 7th row— knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2. 8th row— knit i, knit 2 together, purl I, knit 10, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. 9th row — knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 4, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2. 10th row— knit i, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 5, cotton twice over the pin, knit 4, knit 2 together, purl i,knit 2. 11th row— knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit i and purl i, in the made stitch, knit 4, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2. 12th row— knit i, knit 2 together, purl I, knit 3, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit 2 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. together, purl i, knit 2. IStli row— knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 3, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2. 14tli row— knit i, knit 2 together, purl i.knit 3, knit i and purl I in the made stitch, knit 3, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. ISth row- knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 2, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit I, slip I, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit 2 to- gether, cotton twice over pin, knit 2. 16tli row— knit i, knit 2 to- gether, purl I, knit 5, cotton twice over pin, knit 4, knit 2 together, purl I, knit 2. 17th. row— knit 2, cotton twice over pin, knit 2 to- gether, knit 4, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 4, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2. 18th row— knit i, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 5, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. Repeat from ist row. These pretty knitted insertions and laces can be used for almost any pur- pose by varying the material. LEAF EDGING. Materials : Coat's crochet cotton No. l8,pins 20,Walker's Gauge. Cast on II stitches. 1st row — knit plain. 2nd row — slip i, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit i, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, knit I. 3rd row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, purl I, knit 3, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 4th row — slip i, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, knit i. 5th row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 5, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 6th row — slip i, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, knit i. 7th row — knit 3, purl I, knit 2, purl 1, knit 7, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit I. 8th row — slip i, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, knit i. 9th row — knit 3, purl I, knit 2, purl I, knit g, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 10th. row — slip I, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 9, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, cotton forward twice, knit 2 together, knit i. 11th row — knit 3, purl i, knit 2, purl i, knit 11, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit i. 12th row— slip i, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, now knit plain to end of all the stitches. 13th row — cast ofif all but 11 stitches, including the I left upon the right hand pin, knit all plain but the last 3, then cotton forward, knit 3 together, knit i, and repeat from the 2nd row, starting with that row for any length required. EDGING. Materials required: boar's head cotton No. 12, 2 pins No. 17, Walker's Gauge. Cast on 11 stitches. 1st row — knit 9, turn the cotton twice over the pin and knit 2. 2nd row — knit 2, knit I and purl I in the made stitch, knit 9. 3rd row — knit 9, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, 4th row — knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 10. 5th row — knit 6, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2. 6th row — knit 2, slip I, knit i, pass slipped stitch over, knit 3, cotton twice over the pin, and knit 6. 7th. row — knit 6, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 4, cotton twice over the pin, and knit 2. 8th row — knit 2, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 3, slip i, knit I, pass slipped stitch over, knit 6. 9th row — knit 4, slip i, knit i, pass slipped stitch over, knit i, slip i, pass slipped stitch over, knit 2, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2. 10th row — knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 3, cotton twice over the pin, knit 3, cotton twice over the pin, knit 4, 11th row — knit 4, knit I and purl i in the made stitch, knit 3, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 3, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2. 12th row — knit 2, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 3, slip I, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 3, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4. 13th row — knit 6, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 toge- ther, cotton twice over the pin, knit 2. 14th row — knit 2, knit i and purl I in the made stitch, knit 2 together, knit 3, cotton twice over pin, knit 6. 15th row — knit 6, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2, knit 2 together, slip i, knit i, and pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2. 16th row— knit 2, cotton twice over the pin, knit 4, slip I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 6. 17th row — knit 9, knit 2 together, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2. 18th row — knit 2, shp i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 10. 19th row — knit 9, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the pin and knit 2. 20th row — knit 2, knit i and purl i in the made stitch, knit 2 together, knit 8. 21st row — knit 9, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2. 22nd row — knit 2, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 8. Repeat from the ist row. Answers to Correspondents. In compUcmce with the request of nmnerous suhscribers, we luive decided to ope^i a colii/mTi m which we will answer any queries relating to Fancy Worlc. Such queries should he written clearly on one side of the paper only^ and headed " Wokk-Basket," and should reach us not later than the Uth of the month to ensure reply in next issue. A nom de plome must he affixed to each. DotLiE. — Write to Briggs & Co., Manchester, or one of their agents, for their "Silk Guide," price Id., which will, we think, meet your re(juire- ments. Nelly. — 1. If you mean the leaf pattern of shawl in No. 13, we find no error in 9th row. 2. You do not say in what row the error occurs in Chevron pattern, so cannot examine it. 3. The No. 9 edging is quite correct in 6th row. Perhaps you have mis-read the "Knit 11" for " Knit 2." 4. For correction for hexagon see answer to " Dolly " in July number. 5. We can find no error in 2ad row of Holly pattern. We are afraid you are too hasty. Haib. — It has become very common now-a-days for women to find their hair becoming giey early and falling off in large quantities, thus rendering it a matter of impossibility to dress it according to la mode. This is owing, in all probability, to the present state of high pressure and intellectual advancement. Women use their brains so much more than they did some years ago, and this generally causes diseases of the hair, dryness, &o. As a consequence, one must resort to false hair now and then, even if it be only a small quantity. Hair is very much cheaper at the present day than it was formerly, and almost any one can afford a small strand to add to their own scanty tresses. Mr. Smith, of ii, Silver Street, Salisbury, has an ex- cellent assortment of false hair in all shades and lengths, and at very low prices. A piece of hair measuring 15 inches, and weighing 1 ounce, ia only 3s. 6d., and a long tress of 23 inches, and weighing li oimces, is 15s. Other tresses are proportionately low. S. R. — Your case is a very sad one, and we fear only too common. On all sides we hear that the market for the sale of ladies' work is overstocked. There are, however, many Work Societies, some of which require the payment of an annual subscription, others which sell work on commission. The chances of disposing of work by the former means are very small unless the embroidery be particularly well executed, and original and novel in character. By the latter, again, the work is frequently kept in stock so long that it is ultimately returned to its owner practically useless. The work is generally not insured either from fire or other causes of damage. Some shops undertake the sale of work, but naturally they give the pre- ference to those workers whom they have themselves taught and trained. In Great Portland Street, London, are situated the offices of the Self-aid Society, where ladies are provided with orders for various sorts of work, but fancy plain work has the p reference, such as weU embroidered under or table linen. A complete list of these Societies would occupy too much space here. With regard to the finishing off of work, there are doubtless trade secrets connected with this, as well as with other things, but a Uttle embroidery paste or strong starch rubbed over the back will stiffen it sufiBciently, and also prevent the ends of silk or wool from looking untidy. Socks and stockings are usually damped, pulled into shape, and left to dry under shght but even pressure. 209 THE FAN WORK-BASKET. Crochet. HOOD AND CAPE. Suitable Gift for a Poor Child. Materials required are as follows: 6 ozs. of drab Scotch fingering wool, 2 ozs. of cardi- nal, bone crochet hook No. 12, Walker's Bell Gauge. Commence with grey wool, and work 26 chain. 1st row — for the crown of hood turn and work I treble into the 5th chain stitch from needle, i treblemtothe next stitch, I treble into the next, making 3 treble alto- gether, i chain, miss I of the foundation chain and work 3 treble ; repeat until you have 5 sets of 3 treble ; i chain, i treble stitch to end row, thereby leaving i hole at end. 2nd row— turn with 5 chain, 3 treble into 1st hole, i chain, 3 treble into next ; work like this until you come to the hole at end of the row, into that work 2 treble, I chain for 5 times to make it round for the crown; finish row like the beginning of row, viz, i chain, 3 treble into every hole. 3rd row — turn with 5 chain, 3 treble into 1st hole, I chain, 3 treble into 5 more holes, making 6 sets of i chain, 3 treble; now work 2 treble, I chain, 2 treble into next hole, same into the next 3 holes to increase, then work the other side same as before. 4th. row — i chain, 3 treble all round into every hole. 5th row — same, I chain, 3 treble into every row all round. 6th. row— same. 7th. row — same. 8th row — same. 9th. row — same. 10th row — same. 11th row — same. 12th row^same. 13th row— same. 14th row — same. 15th row^same. 16th row— same. 17th row— same. This finishes the hood ready for the border, which work with cardinal wool, * 5 treble loosely into ist hole, and catch back the last stitch into the 1st treble stitch by slipping the hook out, and draw the stitches to- gether at the back (this forms a raised bunch), i chain, repeat from * into every hole. 2nd row — with grey wool, but on the same side, so you can break off at the end of each row. 3rd row — with car- dinal, the same ; this is to be tacked lightly back over the front as a trimming, when the other part is finished. For cape, with grey wool, work 5 chain, 3 treble into the ist hole along the bottom of hood, I chain, 2 treble into the next 7 holes, and into the 8th, which is the centre, work 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble, this for the point at back of cape ; work I chain, 3 treble into every hole to end, and I chain, i treble as well into the last hole to increase. 2nd row — turn with 5 chain, 3 treble into ist hole, i chain, 3 treble into all the rest, excepting the centre, which is 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble; you increase in this hole at every row. Work 15 more rows in same way, making 17 rows altogether; always increase at the beginning and end of every row, also at the back. 18th row — with cardinal, the same. 19th row — same with grey. 20th row — same with cardinal. 21st row — same with grey. 22nd row — begin at the front or side of cape with cardinal, work all round the cape in same way, increasing at the corners by working a double set of i chain, 3 treble,;2 chain, 3 treble. 23rd row— same in grey. 24th row — in cardinal. For the edge, work 5 treble loosely into I hole, 1 double crochet into next, S treble into next. Continue working like this all round as a finish to the cape. For the curtain, work with grey. 1st row — i chain, 3 treble into every hole of the cape, on the right side at neck. 2nd row — work just the same as for cape, increasing at the centre hole by working 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble for the point at back, also increase at the beginning and end of each row, same as cape; work 6 rows altogether, and work 3 rows round the curtain to match border of front exactly the same. 1st row — in cardinal. 2nd row — in grey. 3rd row— cardinal, that is the bunches of treble. Tack the border of front lightly over the hood. Make cord and tassels of both wools, and run them in and out, round the front and curtain. Tie 2 tassels at the top and 2 at the back of curtain; this keeps it on the child's head, but if liked you can add cord and tassels at the neck as well to tie at throat. They are very warm and comfortable looking, 210 SMALL ROUND TABLE COVER. You will require a bone crochet hook, No. ii; Walker's Bell Gauge, and about half a pound of green or crimson single Berlin wool in 6 shades. You will want most of the ist and last shade. Commence with the lightest shade and work 6 chain, unite by a slipstitch ; into the ring work 20 treble stitches, join. 1st row— 5 chain, i double crochet into every other stitch all round, which will make 10 loops. 2nd row — I double crochet, 7 treble, I double crochet into every loop all round. 3rd row — with 2nd shade of wool, work 7 chain, i double crochet into the centre stitch of every scallop round. 4th row — i treble into every stitch all round. 5th row — 2 chain, i treble into every other stitch all round. 6th row — with 3rd shade of wool, i chain, 2 treble into every hole. 7th row — I chain, 3 treble into every hole. 8th row — same. 9th row — with 4th shade of wool, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble into every hole all round, no chain between. 10th row — same. - 11th row— with 5th shade of wool, the same. 12th row— same. 13th row — ■ with lightest, or ist shade of wool, work in the same way. 14th row — with 6th shade of wool, 3 treble, i chain, 3 treble to increase. 15th row — same. 16th row — with lightest shade of wool, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble. 17th row — with 3rd shade of wool, work in the same way. 18th row — with the lightest shade, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble, I treble stitch between each point to form a stem, 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble, i treble between each point again, repeat in same way all round. 19th row — with darkest shade, 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, i treble over the treble stitch of last row. 20th. row — the same. 21st row — the same. Knot 8 strands of wool into each point and also into the treble stitch between the points, which will form a nice thick fringe; cut it very even all round. This pattern looks very pretty in all shades and colours of wool, one or two rows of each, worked according to fancy. CURTAIN HOLDERS. Very useful holders can be quickly and very easily made by anyone who can crochet. They are made of double Berlin to match curtains or furniture. For bedroom windows they are certainly most useful. J of a lb. of wool and a very coarse crochet hook will be required, bone, of course. Wind the wool into 8 balls, take 2 of these balls to make the tassels, wind them together round a card, small book, or over all your fingers for 50 times, making 100 strands of wool for each tassel, of which there must be 4 ; tie round the centre very firmly with the 6 balls of wool, and insert the crochet hook, double the wool over hook, and draw through with a chain stitch the 6 strands of wool, and work about 60 chain or more. If not long enough fasten off, leaving the ends 2 or 3 inches. Make 3 more cord and tassels in same way ; tie 2 of the cord and tassels together very firmly, and fasten off, or you can leave the ends to tie round the hooks, else knot the cord round, and tie up the curtains. Cut the tassels very evenly with a sharp pair of scissors ; they will last for years, and look extremely well. THE JANCY WORK-BASKET. MOSAIC WOOL ANTIMACASSAR. This pattern is designed for using up any odds and ends of wool you may have by you, although it looks well in two colours. It must be worked with a bone crochet hook No. 9, Walker's Bell Gauge. To commence, work 6 chain, and unite into a ring by a slipstitch ; work 5 chain, wind the wool over your hook 3 times in same way as for double long treble, for which directions were given in No. I of this paper, work off. Do 2 more of these long stitches (which look like cable), then 5 chain, i double crochet; this finishes 1st point. 5 chain, 3 long stitches, 5 chain, I double crochet for 2nd point. 5 chain, 3 long stitches, 5 chain, I double crochet for 3rd point. 5 chain, 3 long stitches, 5 chain for 4th point, fasten off. The greater variety of colours the better for this pattern. Join the 2nd star in working. When you have done the long stitches before working the last 5 chain, slip the hook into i point of the ist star, draw wool through both stars, and finish with 5 chain, I double. In doing next 5 chain to begin, join the 2nd point, and slip the hook through, finish the same as others ; they are all joined in same way by merely slipping the hook through the points. Join all as you go on, or if you like, sew them all together by a needle and wool, after you have made a lot of the little stars. When the work is large enough, work a border of black Berlin all round, which throws up all the colours, and has a charming effect. 1st row — 5 chain, i double crochet into each point all round, increasing at the corners by working 10 chain, which goes round the corner. 2nd row — i chain, i treble into every other chain stitch, increase at the corners by working 5 chain. 3rd row — same. 4tli row — same. Now work a scalloped edge down each side, I double crochet into ist hole, 7 long treble into 3rd hole, miss i hole and work I double crochet, repeat to end, and work the other side to match. Knot 4 strands of wool into each hole at top and bottom of any colour wools. DRESS FOR CHILD. This frock, which is a remarkably pretty style, requires about 8 ozs. of Berlin wool, and will fit a child of 2 or 3 years of age. The bodice is of a long loose shape, the flounce to form the skirt being crocheted on to the edge, and the join is hidden by a soft silk sash, for which 2i yards of ribbon are required. The stitch for the bodice is Russian crochet, that is, double crochet worked backwards and forwards, always taking the back loop, which forms a rib. These ribs run down from the neck to the skirt. Begin the bodice down the back with 50 chain. Work 3 rows. 4th row — Increase I at the end. All the increasings and decreasings are to be done at this same end, the other being kept straight. Work 3 rows without increasing. Repeat from the 4th row till there are 54 stitches. This is to form the neck. Decrease for the shoulder at the end of every other row till there are 50 stitches left. Then for the armhole, leave 18 stitches at the shoulder end, and work 2 rows of 32 stitches for under the arm. At the end of the next row make 18 chain, work back and increase at the end of every row to 54 stitches. Decrease at the end of every 4th row to 48, and increase at the end ot every 4th row to 54. Decrease at the end of every other row to 50. Leave 18 stitches for the 2nd armhole, work 2 rows for under the arm, make 18 chain, and increase at the end of every other row to 54. Decrease at the end of every 4th row to 50. In the last row but i make button-holes thus : — * work 5 stitches, make 2 chain, miss 2 stitches and repeat from *. In the next row, work on the chain as ordinary stitches. Sew up the shoulders, and this completes the bodice. The skirt is worked m shell stitch, and should be done rather loosely, using a larger hook than for the bodice. Begin at the centre of the back and work right along the straight edge of the bodice. There should be about 150 shell stitches in the whole row. Join round at the end of every row and begin with 2 chain. Every row is the same, the skirt being the same width all the way. Work about 18 rows, and then the following scallop at the edge, i double crochet on the ist shell stitch, 5 treble on the next shell stitch and repeat all round. Along the neck work 2 rows of shell stitch (45 stitches in the row) and i row of the scallop edge the same as the skirt, and carry the scallop down the side of the back where the button-holes are. For the sleeve, which is quite short, work 4 rows of Russian crochet round the armhole, then 2 rows of shell stitch (18 stitches in the row) and a row of the scallop edge, and sew up these few rows. Run a narrow ribbon to draw up the neck, or a cord of the wool with tassels, and sew on pearl or bone buttons at the proper places. Last of all, add the sash, which should be slightly folded and stitched on at the centre of the front, where the skirt joins the bodice. JUBILEE POINT NEIGE. Make a chain the required length and 4 over. Turn and work back. 1st row — put the wool once round the needle as in treble crochet, and then into the next chain but i from the needle, draw the wool through 2 loops, leaving 2 on the needle, repeat this into the next 4 loops; you will now have 6 loops on the needle, draw the wool through all 6 at once, * make i chain to make it firmer, put the wool round theneedle once, but instead of putting the needle into the 211 FANCY WORK-BASKET. hole just iormed as in ordinary point de neige, put it into the top part of the treble last formed, draw through 2 loops, but not through the last at'present, put the wool round the needle and then go into the lower part of the same treble, and draw through 2 loops, make the next into the chain in which the 6th treble of last shell was worked, the 5 th and 6th trebles into the next 2 chain, and draw the wool through all 6 at once ; repeat from *. 2nd row — 4 chain, make a treble into the 2nd chain, but only draw the wool through 2, leaving 2 loops on the needle, 3rd into the next chain, 4th into the hole formed by last shell, Sth into the loop that comes next and looks like a chain, 6th into the hole formed by last shell but one of previous row. Now you have 6 loops on the needle, draw the wool through all 6 at once,* make i chain, make I treble into the top of last treble, but do not draw the wool through all 3 loops, and treble into the lower part of same treble, 4th into the same hole in which this treble was worked, sth into the loop resembling a chain, 6th into the hole of the shell previous to the one just worked upon, draw the wool through all 6 loops, and repeat from *. Every row the same. This is a pretty stitch for petticoats, arranging so that the sides should be top and bottom as they form a scallop. TAM O' SHANTER IN FANCY CROCHET. Materials required : — 2 J oz. of Berlin wool, and a bone crochet hook. No. 12. Make 3 or 4 chain, join in a round, and for the 1st row, make 2 chain to begin with, and then 6 shell stitches into the circle. 2nd row — Increase occasionally to 10 shells. , Every row of shell stitch should be ' begun with 2 chain, and every row must be carefully joined round before beginning the next. 3rd row — \ worked in double crochet, 26 stitches in all. 4t]i row — after joining round, turn the work, so as to go round the other way, and work 30 double y-- N crochet, taking the back loop, as if _ for ribbed crochet. The increasings in this and all other rows are always done irregularly at various intervals in the row. Sth row — turn as before, and work 33 stitches in ribbed crochet. 6th row — turn as before, and work 36 stitches in ribbed crochet. 7tli row— turn and work 36 shell stitches. Sth row— 38 shell stitches. 9tli row — 40 shell stitches. 10th row — 78 double crochet. 11th row— turn, 81 double crochet, take care always to have these rows in ribbed crochet. 12th row — 84 double crochet. 13th row — 88 double crochet. 14th row — turn, 86 shell stitches. 15th row— 88 shell stitches. 16th row — 90 shell stitches. i7th row — 190 double crochet. 18th row — turn, igo double crochet. 19th row— 190 double crochet. 20th row — in this row you begin to decrease, which is done by taking 2 loops together, 162 double crochet. 21st row— turn, 82 shell stitches. 22nd row— 79 shell stitches. 23rd row— 76 shell stitches. 24th row — 102 double crochet. 25th row — turn, 99 double crochet. 26th row— 96 double crochet. 27th row— 93 double crochet. 28th row— turn, 60 shell stitches. 29th row— 48 shell stitches. Now work for the band 48 stitches in double crochet, going round and round without turning, and taking always the back loop and the stitch at the back below, which makes a firm, close stitch. Work 5 rows in this manner, and finish off neatly. Make a tuft of the wool, and sew it to the centre of the cap, and 2 more tufts to hang from the centre one, connecting them with a length of about 4 inches in chain stitch. JERSEY FOR INFANT. For this simple but useful comfort for an infant, you will require 3 ounces of best Scotch fingering, or, what is better and softer pea- cock fingering ; white is best. The model one is in pale grey. Bone crochet hook. No. 11, Walker's Bell Gauge. The jersey is worked all through in ribbed double crochet and in one piece. You com- mence at one wrist, and end at the other. Work 21 chain for wrist, turn, miss ist chain, work 20 double crochet stitches along the foundation chain. 2nd row — turn, work 20 double crochet, taking the back part of stitch to form ribs, and increase i stitch at end of row by working 2 stitches into i ; this is to shape the sleeve. 3rd row— same, increasing at end of row all through the sleeve. 5th row— exactly the same. 6th row— same. 7th row — same. 8th row — same. 9th row — same. 10th row — same. 11th row — same. 12th row — same. 13th row — same. 14th row — same. 15th row— same. 16th row— same. 17th row— same. 18th row— same. 19th row— same. 20th row — same. 21st row— - 212 same. 22nd row — same. S3rd row — same, when there will be 40 stitches. This completes the 1st sleeve. 24th row — for shoulder and bodice, work 1 1 chain, turn, miss i and work 10 double crochet on this chain, work on the 40 stitches of sleeve, and make 11 chain at the end to correspond with the other end. 25th row — turn, miss I chain, and work 60 double crochet stitches all in same way as sleeve. 26th row — 60 double [crochet. 27th row — same. 28th row — same. 29th row — same. 30th row — same. 31st row — same. 32nd row — same. 33rd row — only work 30 stitches; this is for the front. 34th row — 30 double crochet. 35th row — same. 36th row — same. 37th row — same. 38th row^ — same. 39th row — same. 40th row — same. 41st row — same. 42nd row — same. 43rd row — same. 44th row— same. 45th row — same. 46th row — same. 47th row — same. 48th row — same. 49th row — same. 50th row — same. 51st row — same. 52nd row — same. 63rd row — same. 54th row — same. 55th row — same. 56th row — same. Now work for the back the other 30 stitches just the same for 24 rows, or 12 ribs; this leaves the space for it to be slipped over the infant's head. For^2nd shoulder, take up all the 60 stitches and work backwards and forwards for 9 rows. For 2nd sleeve you must decrease by only working 40 stitches, thereby leaving 10 stitches at the end of the work unworked; you now decrease i stitch in every row, by passing over i stitch at end of each row until you have 20 stitches for wrist; there must be the same number of ribs as the other sleeve, viz., 12. Join up the jersey, beginning at the sleeves, by a slipstitch, join straight from the wrists, and finish off under the arms. Now work a row of treble into each rib, and i treble between each rib. 2nd row — work i treble between each treble of last row. 3rd row — same. 4th row— same. 5th row — same. Now work a scalloped edge of 3 long treble into i hole I double crochet into next, repeat all round. Work 9 little scallops in same way round each sleeve as a finish. FOR Neck. Work 2 rows of treble, same as round the bottom of jersey, and a picot edge of 3 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain stitch into I hole, I double crochet stitch into the next hole, repeat all round. Make a cord and tassels long enough to go round neck, and little pompons of wool at end of chain to draw up. This jersey can be easily enlarged for an older child by beginning with more chain, say 30 instead of 20. Worked in scarlet they are so comfortable as sleeping jackets, and slipping over the head, keeps the little one so snug and warm. HOOD FOR INFANT. The construction of this cosy little hood is so simple, it will recommend itself to all crochet workers. The stitch is very easy. Materials required : — 5 skeins white Andalusian wool, or coloured if preferred, 3 yards of satin ribbon about an inch wide, ^ of a yard of thin silk or satin for the lining, and 2 wooden or bone crochet needles; i needle should be rather long, straight, and have a knob at the end (same as would be used for tricoter stitch), number 8, Walker's Bell Gauge ; the other, which is used for the border, should be an ordinary short one. No. 12. Commence with long needle, work a chain of 57 stitches, throw the wool over the needle, and draw it through the 2nd chain loop from the needle. There are now 3 stitches on the needle; throw the wool over the needle, and draw it through the next loop of the chain, so making 5 stitches on the needle. Raise all the chain loops in the same way, always putting the wool over the needle before drawing it through the chain loops, and keeping all the stitches on the needle. When all the chain loops are raised, there should be 1 1 1 stitches on the needle. Now draw the wool through the 3 last stitches on the needle, * draw the wool through the next 3 stitches on the needle ; repeat from * till all the stitches but one are worked off. These 2 rows form i pattern ; keep the one stitch THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. on the needle. 2nd pattern — throw the wool over the needle, and draw it through the ist loop lying at the hack of the last stitch of last row, * throw the wool over the needle, and draw it through the next loop lying to the back ; repeat from * to end of row, taking care to lift the last loop at end. There should always be 1 1 1 stitches on the needle when the ist row of the pattern is finished. If the worker is inexperienced it is well to count the stitches for a few patterns to ensure having the correct number on the needle, draw the wool through the 3 last stitches on the needle, * draw the wool through the next 3 stitches on the needle ; repeat from * till all the stitches but one are worked off, keep the last stitch on the needle as before. Repeat these last 2 rows till there are 28 patterns worked. Now for the string case row, work 5 chain, work a double long stitch thus: throw the wool 4 times round the needle, draw the wool through the ist loop at back (the loop lying in the same position as those raised in the preceding rows), * draw the wool through 2 stitches on the needle, draw the wool through next 2 stitches on the needle, draw the wool through next 2 stitches on the needle, draw the wool through next 2 stitches on the needle, keep the last 2 stitches on the needle, throw the wool 4 times round the needle, draw the wool through next back loop ; repeat from *, when there will be 3 stitches on the needle. Repeat these long stitches all across to end of row, keeping the stitches on the needle same as before. There should be 56 stitches on the needle, when the row is finished. Draw the wool through the 2 last stitches on the needle, * draw the wool through the next 2 stitches on the needle. Repeat from * till all the stitches but i are worked off, keep this stitch on the needle, throw the wool over the needle, draw the wool through between the 5 chain and ist long stitch at beginning of string case row, * throw the wool over the needle, draw the wool through between next 2 long stitches ; repeat from * to end of row, when there should be in stitches on the needle, draw the wool through the 3 last stitches on the needle, * draw the wool through the next 3 stitches on the needle ; repeat from * till all the stitches except i are worked off; work 21 patterns same as before the string case, work a row same as before, but leaving the last loop at the end without working into it. Work off the stitches same as before till 3 stitches only remain on the needle, keep these 3 on the needle, and work a row raising the stitches, and leaving the last loop of the row without working into it same as before. Work off the stitches till 5 only remain, keep these 5 on the needle, and work next row, leaving the last stitch as before. Work off the stitches till 7 remain, keep these 7 on the needle, and work next row, leaving the last stitch as before. Work off the stitches till 9 remain, keep these 9 on the needle, and work the next row, leaving the last stitch as before. Work off the stitches till 11 remain, keep these 11 on the needle, and work the next row, leaving the last stitch as before. Work off the stitches till 13 remain, keep these 13 on the needle, and work next row, leaving the last stitch as before. Work off the stitches till only 15 remain, work these 15 stitches off in the same way, but drawing the wool through 2 loops instead of 3 as hitherto. Fasten off the wool. These rounded ends of the work are the cape part. Before joining up the hood, cut out the lining, which is a straight piece of the silk, measuring it from the straight end of the work down to the top of the string case, but leaving the silk a little longer and wider than the crochet, which will stretch when worn. The lining is not put into the hood till the last thing, but it is easier to get the size before the work is joined to shape the head part of the hood. Now to bring the hood into shape, double the work in half across the top or straight end. Take a darning needle with a piece of the wool double ; join the 2 halves of the top together by drawing the wool through the loops of each edge, catching them together, and drawing them up tight. The gathers at the seam should be drawn up to about an inch and half ; sew the seam firmly on the wrong side, and fasten off securely. Work a row of double crochet all round the hood, a stitch of double crochet into every loop ; when within 2 loops of the seam where the hood is joined, work a chain of 6 stitches, miss the 2 loops at each side of the seam, and continue the double crochet till the row is finished, fasten off This row must be worked loosely, so as not to contract the edge of the hood. The border is worked in tufted crochet. With the short needle No. 12, make a chain of 10 stitches, work 9 stitches of double crochet into this chain, work a chain stitch, turn. 2nd row — * put the needle into the last double stitch, taking it through the double loop of the chain, throw the wool omr the needle and round the ist finger of the left hand 4 times, draw these 4 threads through the double chain loops on the needle, draw the single wool through the 4 threads and the stitch on the needle. This is called a tufted stitch. * Work a double crochet stitch on the next stitch of last row, working through the double chain loops ; work a tufted stitch on next chain loop of last row, working as Ijefore through the double chain loops ; repeat from * to end of row, work l chain stitch, turn. 3rd row — double crochet, working through the double chain loops of last row, make a chain stitch, turn. 4th row — work a double stitch on last stitch of last row, * work a tufted stitch on next stitch of last row, work a double stitch on next stitch of last row ; repeat from * to end of row, make a chain stitch, turn. 5th. row — is same as 3rd row. Observe that the 2nd row begins and ends with a tufted stitch, and the 4th row begins and ends with a double stitch. Repeat from the beginning of the 2nd row until a length is worked that will measure round the hood from seam at top down one side and across the bottom ; leave this end, join on wool to the piece of wool left at the beginning of the border, work a row of double crochet into the foundation chain (9 stitches), make I chain stitch, turn, work a row same as the 2nd row, and continue as before till sufficient is worked for 2nd side do%vn to comer where the border meets, and is joined. The border is worked in this way so that the tufts will fall the same way down either side of the hood. Sew the tufted border to edge of hood on the right side of the hood, taking care that the row where the tufts meet comes to the top of the rounded corner, and that the tufts fall down ways at sides of hood ; join the border at the seam of the hood. Tack the other edge of the border to the hood, gathering a little the inner edge of the border where the corners are rounded, so that it lies quite flat. The hood is finished with a bow at the top, for which cut off 43 inches of the ribbon. The pattern was made with 6 rather long loops and one short end. Sew on the bow over the seam at the top of the hood. The ribbon should not project beyond the front edge of the border. For the strings cut oft' 40 inches of the ribbon, and run it through the string case, tack the middle of the ribbon to middle of the string case, gathering the hood a little at centre of the string case, sew the gathers to the ribbon to keep them in their place. Tie the piece of ribbon remaining into a bow, and sew it on to the hood over the fulness at centre of string case. The lining is now put in, double the silk in half across the top, and draw it up in the same way as the work was joined, sew the seam of the lining to the seam of the hood. Turn in the raw edges of the silk, and tack to sides of the hood about a quarter of an inch from the edge of the crochet, and across the top of the string case. The lining should be put in loosely to allow for the wool stretching. This hood also looks very nice worked in the common tricoter stitch, which requires even less attention than the stitch given, and the work can be put down and taken up as readily as the simplest piece of knitting. If worked in tricoter 10 additional stitches will be required for the width, so that a chain of 67 instead of 57 stitches must be made at the commencement. People work so variously that the same needle in different hands frequently produces a laiger 213 THE FANCY WORK.BASKET. or smaller article. The model from which this pattern was taken (which was intended for a first size), measured without any stretch- ing ii inches in width, 7 inches from the commencement of the hood to the beginning of the string case, and 5 inches from the other edge of string case to the row where the corners begin to be rounded off, as at the 22nd pattern (after the string case) given in directions. With the measurements thus given the worker can hardly fail to work out the pattern to the required size. STRIPE FOR ANTIMACASSAR, &c. Coats-' crochet cotton. No. 18, and steel hook, 44. Make a chain of 60 stitches. 1st row — i treble into each of the 2 first stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, i double into 3rd stitch, 2 chain, miss 2, * I treble into next, 2 chain, miss 2 ; repeat from * 6 times more, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of next 4 stitches, * 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into next, and repeat from last * 6 times more, 2 chain, miss 2, I double into next, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble into each of the 2 next stitches, turn. 2nd row — 3 chain to take the place of the 1st treble, I treble into the next stitch, j chain, i treble into each of the next 6 treble with 2 chain between each of them, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each ot the next 4 stitches, 1 5 chain, miss 2 stitches, 1 treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 2 chain, miss 2 stitches, I treble into each of the next 6 treble, with 2 chain between each of them, s chain, l treble into each of the two last stitches, turn. 3rd row — 3 chain, I treble into next stitch, 2 chain, I double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, I treble into each of the next 5 treble with 2 chain between each, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 8 chain, i double into centre of 15 chain, 8 chain, miss 3 treble, i treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into each of the next 5 treble with 2 chain between each, 2 chain, i double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into each of the 2 last stitches, turn. 4tli row— 3 chain, i treble into next stitch, 5 chain, i treble into each of the 4 next treble with 2 chain between each of them, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 8 chain, 3 double crochet, i before, i on, and i after, double of previous row, 8 chain, miss 3 treble, and i treble into each of 4 next stitches, 2 chain, i treble into each of the 4 next treble with 2 chain between each of them, 5 chain, i treble into each of the 2 last stitches, turn. 5th row — 3 chain, i treble into next stitch, 2 chain, i double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into each of next 3 treble with 2 chain between each, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 7 chain, 5 double, I before, 3 on, and one after, the double of previous row, 7 chain, miss 3 treble, i treble into each of next 4 stitches, 2 chain, i treble into each of the next 3 treble with 2 chain between each of them, 2 chain, I double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into each of the 2 last, turn. 6th. row — 3 chain, i treble into the next stitch, 5 chain, i treble into each of the 2 next treble with 2 chain between, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 7 chain, i double before, over, and i after, double of previous row, 7 chain, miss 3 stitches, i treble into each of the 4 next stitches, 2 chain, i treble into each of next 2 treble with 2 chain between each, 5 chain, i treble into each of the 2 last stitches, turn. 7th row — 3 chain, i treble into the next stitch, 2 chain, i double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, I treble into next treble, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 6 chain, i 214 double before, over and i after the double of previous row, 6 chain, miss 3 treble, i treble into each of next 4 stitches, 2 chain, i treble into next treble, 2 chain, i double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, 1 treble into each of the two last stitches, turn. 8th row — 3 chain, I treble into next stitch, 5 chain, miss 5, i treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 8 chain, i before, over, and i after the double of previous row, 8 chain, miss 8 stitches, I treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 5 chain, i treble into each of 2 last stitches, turn. 9th row — 3 chain, I treble into next stitch, 2 chain, i double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into the ist treble, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of the 4 next stitches, 8 chain, 9 double over double of last row, being i less at each end than previous row, 8 chain, miss 6 stitches, i treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into the next, 2 chain, i double into the centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, I treble into each of the 2 last stitches, turn. 10th row — 3 chain, I treble into next stitch, 5 chain, i treble into each of the 2 next trebles with 2 chain between, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into each of next 4 stitches, 8 chain, 7 double over double of last row, I short at each end, 8 chain, miss 6 stitches, i treble into each of the 4 next stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into each of the 2 next treble with 2 chain between, 5 chain, i treble into each of the next 2 stitches, turn. 11th row — 3 chain, I treble into next stitch, 2 chain, i double into 3rd of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into each of 3 next trebles with 2 chain between each of them, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into each of next 4 stitches, 8 chain, 5 double over double of last row, being i less at each end, 8 chain, miss 6 stitches, I treble into each of next 4 stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of next 3 treble with 2 chain between, 2 chain, I double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into each of the last 2 stitches, turn. 12th row —3 chain, i treble into next stitch, 5 chain, i treble into each of next 4 treble with 2 chain between each, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of 4 next stitches, 9 chain, 3 double over double of last row, being i less at each end, 9 chain, miss 6 stitches, i treble into each of next 4 treble with 2 chain between each, 5 chain, I treble into each of 2 last, and turn. 13th row — 3 chain, i treble into next stitch, 2 chain, i double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into each of next 5 treble with 2 chain between each of them, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into each of 4 next stitches, 10 chain, i double in centre of 3 double, 10 chain, miss 6, I treble into each of next 4 stitches, 2 chain, i treble into each of the next five treble, with 2 chain between, 2 chain, i double into centre of 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into each of the 2 last stitches, turn. 14th row — 3 chain, i treble into next stitch, 5 chain, I treble into each of the next 6 treble with 2 chain between each, 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into each of next 4 stitches, 3 chain, i treble into each of the 3 last of 10 chain and ist of 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, I treble into each of the 6 treble with 2 chain between each, S chain, I treble into each of the 2 last stitches. Turn and repeat from the 1st row. Join the stripes by chains. i EDGING FOR UNDERLINEN. Make a chain the length of edge required, turn and work doubles all along the chain. Fasten off. 2nd row — i double into 1st stitch, * 5 chain, I double into same stitch, 9 chain, if for a child's collar, miss 4, and work i double into next stitch. If for a flat edging, miss 6, I double ; repeat from * all along. Fasten off. 3rd row — double into 5 chain, * 5 chain, treble into the centre of next 9 chain, 5 chain, double into next 5 chain; repeat from*. Fasten off. 4th row — double into ist double of last row, 9 chain, * double into 5 chain close to the treble at the end of it. 5 chain, double into the next S chain close to the treble at the beginning of it, 9 chain ; re- peat from *. 5th row — double into 9 chain at the beginning of the last row, 9 chain, double into 5 chain ; repeat from * in 3rd row. Fasten off. Repeat the last 2 rows till a sufficient depth is worked. No. 20, Walter Evans & Co.'s crochet cotton and a fine steel needle will make a nice trimming for underlinen. For children's collars and cuffs. No. l6 may be used or 4J loom thread. It is a pretty shade of ecru, and washes well. It can be had from A. E. K. Box 10, Ballymena, at 6d. per skein, post free. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. COLLAR AND CUFFS. This pretty and effective edge can be used for dress trimmings or for underlinen, and also makes extremely pretty collar and cuffs for a little girl. If a dress trimming is required, Walter Evans' coloured crochet cotton should be used, taking care to select a shade that will match or contrast with the material which it is intended to trim. Should ecru be the colour wished for we recommend loom thread, as it washes remarkably well, and is soft and pleasant to work. It can be obtained from A. E. K., Box lo. Post Office, Ballymena, Co. Antrim, Ireland. To make a cuff, use No. 1 6 Walter Evans' white crochet cotton, or No. 4J loom thread and a fine steel crochet hook. In selecting a hook take a number that will make your work close and firm. Work 17 chain. Treble into 12th stitch, * 3 chain, miss 3, i treble into next stitch. Repeat from * twice more. To form first leaf 14 chain. Take out the needle and catch the last chain stitch through the 2nd stitch of the last 3 chain, so that the 14 chain will be turned backwards, * 1 chain, i double and 15 trebles over the 14 chain. 2nd leaf. — 9 chain. Take out the needle and catch into the 2nd stitch of the next 3 chain. Repeat from *. Work a 3rd leaf the same as the 2nd. Work 5 leaves into the next loop, which has 5 chain stitches. Work 3 more leaves same as ist 3. 6 chain. Take out the needle, and catch into the ist chain stitch at the beginning of your work. 6 chain, i double into the last 6 chain, 6 chain, i double into the chain between the loth and nth leaves. * 6 chain, I double into chain between the next two leaves. Repeat from * 8 times more. 6 chain, l double into the next 6 chain. 2 doubles into the next loop. Work 9 doubles into each 6 chain round the leaves. Fasten off. Work another pattern. In the last row join it to the 1st pattern as follows. When working the 5th double into the 2nd 6 chain loop, take out the needle and citch the thread through the 5th double in 12th 6 chain loop of 1st pattern. In the same way join the 2nd loop to the nth and the 3rd to the loth. Work 9 doubles into the remaining loops as in ist pattern. Fasten off. Work as many patterns like the 2nd as will make the required length of edging. About 4 will be sufficient for a little child's cuff. Edge. Commence on 5th double stitch of 2nd 6 chain loop of 1st pattern, I double into each stitch of preceding row 6 times. Work edge loop as follows : 10 doubles, 6 chain, take out the needle and catch the thread through the 4th of these 10 doubles. I chain, 3 doubles, 4 chain, 3 doubles,4 chain,3 doubles, 4 chain,3 doubles into the 6 chain. Work 5 more edge loops * doubles to the place where the pat- terns join. 5 doubles on next pattern, 4 chain. Take out the needle and catch the thread through the 5th stitch from the end of last pattern. 5 doubles along this 4 chain, i double. Work 4 edge loops and repeat from * all along, working 6 edge loops round the last pattern. Collar. To form this edge into a collar, work along the top of the patterns thus. Commence on centre of nth 6 chain loop of last pattern, I treble, * miss 4, 2 chain, i treble. Repeat from * all along. Turn, 2 chain, i treble into 2 chain of preceding row, * 2 chain, I treble into next 2 chain. Repeat from * all along. Turn, and work 3 treble into each 2 chain. Turn, * 6 chain, miss 6, i double into next stitch. Repeat from * all along. Fasten off. Commence at the beginning of last row, and work edge loops all along to correspond with the edge loops round the other edge of the patterns. About 12 patterns will make a small collar. For string crochet a chain of the length required and crochet I double into each stitch. Put a little tassel at each end and run it through the 1st row of 2 chain and I treble. The cuffs should be sewn to narrow tape, by which they should be tacked to the dress. TRIMMING FOR KNICKERBOCKERS. Fine white crochet cotton, No. 30, is used for this lacy looking edging, which is worked with a fine steel crochet hook No. 20, by H. Walker's Bell Gauge. Our model consists of 9 patterns, and measures 14 inches when completed round the top edge, which is the narrowest. If the frill is required wider or narrower vary the number of patterns. Each pattern takes 30 stitches to start it. Our model is worked round and round without breaking the cotton, but if the knickerbockers are made to open, it must be worked in rows, when the cotton will have to be broken off at the end of each row, and joined at the commencement of the next. For frill of 9 patterns, make a chain of 270 stitches, which join into a ring with a single stitch. 1st round — * i treble, 2 chain, miss 2 ; repeat from *. 2nd round—* 4 treble into 1st hole of last round, i chain, miss 1 hole ; repeat from *. 3rd round — * 2 treble into the top of ist 2 treble of 2nd round, 2 chain, 2 treble into the top of 3rd and 4th treble of 2nd round, 8 chain, miss 5 stitches of 2nd round, 16 double, working through both loops of the stitches. The first and last of the 16 double stitches should be worked into i chain dividing the groups of 4 trebles in 2nd round, 8 chain ; repeat from *. 4th round — * 2 treble into the top of first 2 treble of 3rd round, 2 chain, 1 treble into next hole of 3rd round, 2 chain, 1 treble into same hole, 2 chain, 2 treble into top of next 2 treble of 3rd round, g chain, miss 9 stitches of 3rd round, 14 double worked through botn loops of the stitches, 9 chain ; repeat from *. Stli round — * 2 treble into the top of first 2 treble of last round, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into same hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, 2 treble into the top of next 2 treble of last round, 10 chain, miss 10 stitches of last round, 12 double, 10 chain ; repeat from *. 6th round — * 2 treble into top of first 2 treble of last round, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, 1 treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into same hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, 2 treble into top of next 2 treble of last round, 11 chain, miss 11 stitches of last round, 10 double, 11 chain ; repeat from *. 7th round — * 2 treble into top of first 2 treble of last round, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into same hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, 2 treble into next 2 treble of last round, 12 chain, miss 12 stitches of last round, 8 double, 12 chain ; repeat from *. 8th round — * 2 treble into top of first 2 treble of last round, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into same hole, 2 chain, I treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, 2 treble into top of ne.^t 2 treble of last round, 13 chain, miss 13 stitches of last round, 6 double, 13 chain ; repeat from *. 9th round — * 2 treble into top of first 2 treble of last round, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, I treble into same hole, 2 chain, l treble into next hole, 3 chain, I treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, i treble into next hole, 2 chain, 2 treble into top of next 2 treble of last round, 14 chain, miss 14 stitches of last round, 4 double, 14 chain ; repeat from *. 10th round— I single stitch into top of ist treble of last round, * 6 chain, I single into next hole ; repeat from * 13 times more, * 5 chain, miss 3 chain, i single ; repeat from * 3 times more, i single, * 6 chain, miss 3 chain, i single ; repeat from * 3 times more, repeat from the beginning of the round. Fasten off. 11th round — Work thus into the 1st round, * l treble, 2 chain ; repeat from *. The treble stitches should be worked into the holes formed by ist round. Fasten off. This round completes the edging. Noiv Ready. Price 2d. JUBILEE PICTURE LIBRARY. Containing BIOGEAPHY OP THE QUEEX, with a Haudsome Olcograpli in Colours, and Two Complete Novels. All Booksellers, or posi fric, tliree stamps, B. S. Cartwriqht, S, Jolinson's Covit Fleet Street, E.C. 215 Price Sd.l Mrs. LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET CONTENTS OF NUMBERS. [Montlily. Mrs. Leach's Practical FANCY WORK-BASKET IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY, And may he had of aU newsvendors, price 2d., or post free 24d. from K. S. Oabtwbioht, 8, Johnaon'B Oourt, Fleet St., London, E.C. ALL THE B ACK MUMBERS ME IN PRIST. No. 1 containg :— Crewel Work : giving full Instructlona for every stiteh, with diagrams ; also direc- tions for Crowelling Slippers, Cushions, Antimacassars, &c. Embroidery: glTing every stitch, with diagra.ms. Knitting, with every otitoh Ulustratod. Crochet, with every stitch illustrated. Also how to Knit Socks, Stock- ings. Loop Knitting— Brioche ; Infant's Vest, Bodies and Binder; Lady's Petticoat ; Beaded Cuff; Jersey; Infant's Bonnet ; Hearthrug. How to Crochet Pelisses, Petticoats, Slippers, Antlmaeassars, Sofa Blanket; also Netted Frills for potted meats, &c., and Netted Doyley. Ho. 2 contains : — Eaiitting and How to Set about it— How to shape Stockings of any size, with all the methods of turning heels and toes ; Quilt Patterns ; Gloves (silk and wool) ; Bassinette Cover ; Baby's First Jacket ; Child's Combinations for 3 years ; Shawl and Scarf Patterns ; Cuflf and Gauntlet; Baby's Boots; Gentleman's Sock; Knitted Vest; Sofa Blanket, Leaf and Trellis Pattern; Infant's Petticsat : Canadian Gloves and Mittens, How to Crochet— Lady s Cape in Point Neige; Petticoats; Little Girl's Heod; Loop Crochet; Lady's Underb€)dice ; Crossover; Mats; Basket Pattern ; Crossed Treble Pattern ; Collar and CuSs for Little Boy ; Imitation of Needlework ; Chemise Trimmings ; Baby's Cloak and Hood ; Slippers in Point Neige for 4 years ; Shawl Patterns; Fascinator ; Edgings and Insertionsi with Antimacassar Braid ; Sofa Cushion ; Bedroom Slippers in Russian Crochet ; Infant s Shawl Hood; also— Fern Work; Netting; Home Made Hearthrugs, &c. No. 8 containg ; — Home Decorations. — Chair or Bed Pockets ; Toilet Cushions ; Hair Tidies ; Table ; Blotting Pads ; Table Covers ; Foot Stools ; Waste Paper Basket ; Purse Bag ; Handy Work Bag ; Work-basket ; Tea Cosies ; Screens ; Pretty Coverlids, &c. Patchwork — American Crazy ; Log Cabin ; Cosy Hearthrug ; Decora- tions for the little ones, &c., iSlc. How to Kmt— Infants Stays ; Handsome Shawl ; Frock f or s years ; Lady's Cape; Baby's Long Stockings; Infant's Under Vest; Babys Glove ; Baby's Boots ; Baby Boys' Hats ; Baby's Hood ; Jersey Snit How to Crochet— Bedroom Slippers ; Hand- some Antimacassar in Squares ; Creeve Paletot for 5 years ; Out-door Dress for i to 2 years ; Babies' Jackets ; Babys Cloak; Baby's Hood; Baby's Boot; Petticoats; Tam o' Shanter ; Jersey Suit ; Kilt Suit ; Shoulder Cape, &c. No. 4 contains :— presents for Gentlemen — Shirt Box ; Pincushion ; Trinket Box ; Bedroom Slippers ; Neck Bolster ; Smoking Cap ; Cuffs ; Vest ; Gloves ; Tam o' Shanter ; Watchguards ; Housewives, &c, &c How to Knit— Bassinette Cover ; Quilt ; Stocking for 7 to 10 years, with shaped knee ; Ca'^e, Hat and Muff in Loops ; Shawl in Leaf Pattern; Nightdress Bag; Hood for Women; Lady's Under Vest ; Beaded Cuffs ; Creeve Stocking ; Openwork Silk Stockings; Petticoat for 2 to 4 years; Baby's Glove ; Vest for 6 months ; Infant's Jacket and Boots, and Lady's Summer Petticoat. How to Crochet -Soft Lace ; Babies' Edgings ; Edging with Antimacassar Braid and other Pretty Edgings ; Doyleys; Wool Antima- cassar ; Dress in Point Neige for j8 months ; Quilt for Cradles ; Shoulder Cape ; Lady's Petticoat ; Openwork Pinafore ; Dress for Boy or Girl ; Bath Slippere ; Child's Bodice in Tricot ; Petticoat for 2 to 3 years in Daisy Stitch ; Petticoat for 10 years ; Hood in Point Neige for 6 months ; Pretty Dress for 10 months ; Baby's Boot. No. S contains : — Mountmellick Embroidery ; How to Knit— Openwork Stockings, Spider Web Pattern ; Roseleaf and Grecian Net Patterns ; Double Coraline Pattern ; Grape Pattern ; Lattice Edging ; Fine Shetland Shawl, Queen's Lace, Strawberry Pattern ; Pheasant's Eye Pattern ; Tansy Pattern ; Coral Pattern ; Pretty Ruffle ; Lady's Plain Cuffs ; Good Hearthrug ; Carriage Rug ; Mat ; Frock for 9 to 18 months ; Lady's Vest ; Vest for 7 years ; Vest for 6 months ; Chest Protector for i year ; Lady's Jersey ; Garters ; Boy's Stockings for 8 to 10 years ; Girl s Stockings for 5 years ; Baby's Open Diamond Pattern Sock ; Infants' Boots: Ladies' and Children's Petticoats. How to Crochet — Child's Combination Petticoat ; Bonnet for 4 years ; Frock in Russian Crochet for 12 months ; Ladies' and Children's Petticoats ; Shawl in Honey Crochet, and other Patterns ; Baby's Couvrette ; Wool Quilt ; Peram- bulatpr Cover ; Wool Antimacassars ; Cotton ditto ; Star Patterns ; Edgings ; Crochet Doyley ; Gimp Trimming ; Hearthrugs ; Tea Cosy ; Beaded Purse ; Fancy Collarette ; Tea Cosy ; Garters for Boys and Girls ; Daisy Fringe. No. 6 containg :— How to Knit — Lady's Even- ing Cape; Ladies and Children's Petticoat; Sea-beach Jackets ; Infants Spencers ; Wool Boots ; Creeve Stock- ings ; Infant's Sock for 12 months, Church Window Pattern ; Night Slippers ; Infant's Under Vest ; Small Jersey ; Baby Qirls' Bonnets ; Antimacassar ; Jersey for 3 years ; Bramble Pattern ; Honeycomb Pattern ; Daisy Stitch ; Diamond Edge ; Double Knitting Creeve Square Shawl ; Creeve Fichu ; Pretty Edgings. How to Oroohet —Cape in Canadian Fan Stiteh ; Child's Dress in Point Neige ; Girl's Jacket for 2 years ; Infant's Jacket, Wave Pattern ; Child's Hood ; Dotted Triooter ; New Pattern for Shawls ; Star Antimacassars ; Pretty Lace Edgings. No. 7 contains : — Mirror Painting. How to Knlt^uilt, Raised Leaf Pattern and Diamond Pattern, Lace Pattern; Couvrettea in Arrow Pattern, Herringbone Pattern, Trellis Pattern ; Vest or Comforter ; Combina- tions for ChUd of 8 and 3 years ; Drawers for 3 years ; Petticoat for 1 year; Infant's Boot; Cuffs; Housemaids' Knee Caps; Wool Respirator; Dish Cloth; Pretty Lace Edgings. How to Crochet — Woollen Couvrette; Creeve Wrap; Panels for Dresses; Lady's Petticoat; Child's Petticoat ; Infants' Jackets ; Hood and Cape in one for Batry; Jacket for Infants 6 months old; Stays fori to 2 years; Jam Pot Cover; Remnants for the Hag Bag; Cretonne Work; Honeycomb Darning; German Cross- stitch Work; Oriental Work. No. 8 contains : — Macrara^ Work, first steps in. What to make for Bazaars — Novel Candlestick Pen- wiper ; Dahlia Penwiper; Patchwork ; Spectacle Cleaners : Dinner Mats ; Table Napkin Rings ; Pence Bag ; Pence Hat ; Postage Stamp Case ; Bgg Cosy ; Bod Pocket for Handkerchiefs, &c. ; Pincushions. How to Knit a QuUt in Octagons ; Antimacassars ; Sofa or Carriage Rug ; Gate Pattern ; Bean Pattern ; Honeycomb Pattern ; Scallop Shell Pattern ; Bain Pattern ; Reins for Children ; Infant's Frock; Infant's Jacket; Pincushion Cover; Lady's Wrap ; Drawers for Boy of 6 years ; Pretty Edg. ings ; Creeve Bmbroid«ry. How to Crochet— Tam o' Shanter for Infant ; Infant's Dress ; Petticoat for Child 2 to 4 years ; Infant's Jacket ; Little Boy's Collar ; Cot QuUt ; Antimacassar ; Mat for Vase of Flowers ; Sleeping Socks, No. 9 contains : — Macram^ Work, first steps in. Painting on Terra Cotta. Antimacassar in Fern Splash- ing ; Stove Ornament ; Nigh1i|lrcss Sachet; Bassinette Pillow Case ; Cot Ditto ; Wall-Pocket ; Writing Case ; Scrap Bag ; Bead Work. How to Knit — Infants' Petticoats; Fascinators; Cloud, Little Boy's CoUar ; Counterpanes ; Curtains in Chevron Pattern ; Star Pattern ; Ealsod-Leaf Border ; Diamond Pattern ; Kilt Plait Pattern ; Vandyke Border ; Bed Rest for Invahds ; Pudding Cloth ; Laoe Edging ; Crimean Helmet ; Wool BaUs. How to Crochet — Dress in Trioot for 4 years ; Lady's Shaped Petticoat in Tricot ; Tricoter Knot Stitch ; Infant's Jacket in Tricoter Knot Stitch ; Infant's Tam o' Shanter in Tufts ; OoUar and Cuffs with RoU Picot Edge ; Fringe Trimming with Roll Picots ; Infant's Boots ; Washing Hand ; Bag for Bathing Dress ; Easter Egg Cosy ; Vine Leaf Edging ; Pinafore Edging ; Twisted Edging. No. 10 contains : — How to JKnit — Lady's Jersey; Raised Spot-pattern; Tea Cosy, Egg Cosy and Teapot Handle Holder in Diamond Pattern ; Bell Pattern for Quilt; Shawl Pattoms; Baby Girl's Hood; Myrtle Leaf Pattern ; Narrow Edging ; Pattern for Curtains, &c. How to Crochet — Simple Petticoat for Infant ; Tam O'Shanter for Baby Boy ; Children's Collars ; Lady's Bedroom Slippei-s ; Infant's Bib ; Infant's Boot ; Bicycle Cap ; Antimacassar in Raised or Open Squares ; Hand- some Lace for Dresses ; Wool Antimacassar, Zigzag Pattern ; Watch Pocket ; Star Pincushion ; Star Anti- macassar ; Antimacassar or Oouvrepied ; Square for Quilt ; Pretty Star for Antimacassar ; Arch Edging and Insertion : Waved Braid Edging ; Baby's Edgings ; Simple Edging ; Lattice Pattern ; Fern-leaf Edging ; Nightdress Edging ; Medallion Edging ; Star Edging ; Infant's Jacket in Mosaic Stitch ; Teapot Stand ; Kettle or Ironholder; Teapot Holder. How to Make— Canvas Chair Backs; Tennis Racket Pincushion; Pence Jug; Table Napkin Ring ; Ball Workbag. Knitting Needle Caps; Daisy Toilet Cushion; Slmpla Work Case. How to Knit— Lady's Shetland Bodice; Nun's Pattern; Costume for 6 years; Tulip Pattern. How to Crochet— Beaded Mat; Canadian Fascinator; Ball H Klder ; String Bag ; Case for Crochet Seedle ; Sham- rock Collar; Baby's Slipper vrith Ankle Strap; Infant's Summer Jacket; Bonnet in Crochet and Jet ; Fan Border for Shawls, &c. No. 13 contains :— Photograph Painting; Small Table Mats; Bell Ropes; Scent Bottle Case; Book Markers; Holland Chatelaines; Fan Pincushion; Ma- cram^ Work. How to Knit — Pincushion Cover in Raised Leaf Pattern; Lady's Princess Bonnet; German Pattern ; New Patterns for Beaded Cuffs ; Fringe ; Lady's Vest; Kettle Holder; Improved Method of Casting on Stitches ; Tea Cosy ; Teapot Handle Holder ; Infant's Vest ; Travelling Cap; Handsome Shawl, Leaf Pattern ; Emigrant's Vest ; Lady's Petticoat. How to Crochet- Fascination Dolman; Egg Cosy; Bound Shawl; Fluted Tam o' Shanter; Shetland Head Wrapl; Lady's Comfort- albo Evening Hood and Cape in Point Neige ; Shoulder Cape in Crazy Stiteh; Cheese Serviette; Raised Mat for Vase ; Tassel Bag ; Princess Petticoat ; Stylish Wool Bonnet; Tufted Quilt; Work Bag; Lady's Night Net; Infant's Bib ; Wool Hat lor Baby Boy ; Baby's Gloves ; Infant's Petticoat in Russian Wool; Creeve Edging; Slwrtway Edging; Pretty Edging. No. 11 contains : — Art Needlework — Brackets ; Valances ; Butterfly Penwiper Embroidery ; Trinket Case, &c. Bead Work — Lace and Insertion ; Butterfly ; Plastron and Cuffs ; Fuchsia ; LUy ; Beaded Bonnet. Macram^ Work— The Curl Pattern ; the Star Pattern ; the Cleopati-a Pattern. How to Make— Pretty Badge for Sailor Tunic ; Japanese Palm Leaf Screen ; Boot or Shoe Bags ; Useful PatAiwork ; Hairpin Lace ; Anglo-Indian Embroidery; Hints on Utilising Christmas Cards; Work Case ; Fire Grate Screen in Netting. How to Knit — Collar with Deep Scallops ; Jacket in Lattice Pattern, 1 to 2 years ; Ridge Pattern ; Viennoise Pattern ; Diamond with Open Trellis ; Infant's Gaiter ; Vest for 3 years ; Creeve Seesaw Cap ; Work Bag or Feet Warmer ; Smnll Shawl ; Drawing Room Pincushion ; Leaf and TrclUs Pattern ; Trellis Pattern, «l!ic. How to Crochet— Trim- ming for Child's Dress ; Summer QuUt; Tufted Quilt; Creeve Collar and Cuffs ; New Design for Lady's Petticoat ; Petticoat for 6 to 8 years ; Infant's Tricot Petticoat ; Lady's Mufiie ; Lady's Travelling Bonnet ; Bajjy Girl's Hood; Toilet Tidies, Ac. No. 14 contains :— How to Dress Dolls for Bazaars Photograph Painting; Art Needlework; Bead Work; Maoram^ Work ; Work Bag. How to Knit— Hat for Baby Boy; Petticoat for Lady; Scotch Cap; The Beasley Shawl Pattern ; Bracelets ; Petticoat for 1 Year; Striped Design for Shawls ; Opera Wrap ; Imitation Shoe and Sock; Pattern for Toilet Covers; Gentleman's Travel- ling Cap ; Antimacassar, Raised Plait Pattern ; Fichu ; Shawl Pattern ; The HoUy Pattern for Shawls ; Infants' Overalls and Bocks. How to Crochet— Square for QuUt ; Hood for^Infant ; Shoulder Shawl ; Winter Jacket for Baby ; Square Shawl ; Panohon ; Edgings ; Lady's Collar ; Egg Cosy; Creevo Insertion; Dolls' Walking Costumes; SaUor Boy's Dress ; Long Clothes ; Shortening Costume ; Scarf : Bathing Dress ; Hate ; Tam o' Shantera ; Man- telettes ; Muffs ; Hood and Cape ; Shawl ; Bonnets ; Fascinator; Boots. ; Tea No. 15 contains :— Our Coloured Supplement ; Cosy ; Bracket or Mantel Valance ; Settee Cover ; Border ; Hints for Chiistmas at^d New Year's Gifts ; Art Needle- work ; Children's Work at the ColonialiExhibition. How to Knit- Diamond Stripe for .Counterpane ; Edging to Match ; Fine Shetland Shawl ; Drawers for Ladies ; Vest for Infant. How to Crochet— Cloud for Evening Wear ; Neck Haiidkei-ohief ; Tufted Tam o'Shanter ; Jacket for Infant; Shoulder Cape; Jacket in Russian Crochet; Petticoat for 3 Years ; Head Flannel for Infant ; Cithe- rine Wheel Surban ; Nightcap ; Petticoat ; Simple Edg- ing; Bread Mat: Garden or Travelling Hood; String Ball Case ; Trimming for Infants' Pelisses. No. 16 contains :— On the Painting of Various Articles for our Homes ; New Tear or Birthday Presents ; Useful Ai-ticles Quickly Made ; Book Covers ; Ornamental Buttonholes; Border; Art Needlework ; Gilded Appllqu^ ; Design for Quilt; Kerchief Pinafore. How to Knit — Silk Handkerchief ; Facile Stocking or Sock ; Sock ; Petticoat for Eighteen Months ; Vest for Child in Fancy Knitting; Petticoat for Lady; Petticoat for Infant; Mittens in Fine Bilk ; Petticoat for 14 Tears ; Gentlemao a Mitten ; Gentleman's Travelling Cap ; Necktie for Gentle- man ; Waistcoat for Gentleman ; Boot for Infant ; Double Brioche Stitch. How to Crodiet— Lady's Under Bodice ; The "Elfan" Dolman, 7 Tears; Evening Mantle; Hood to Match ; DoU's Hat— Gainsborough Shape ; Doll Dressed as a Fishwife ; Trimming for Infants' Pelisses ; Doll Dressed in Wool and SUk ; Slipper Watchpocket ; An- swers to Con'espondents ; Sale Column, &c. Ifo. 12 contains : — Kells Embroidery. Smocking. Ai-t Needlework. Crystoleum Painting. Macram^ Work. How to make— Receptacle for Tennis Balls ; Glove Box ; No. 17 contains :— On the Painting of Various Articles for our Homes, Chapter II.; Art Needlework; Music Cases ; Pan Penwiper ; Fish Pincushion ; Bead Work ; Jubilee Design ; Work Case ; Rosette Work ; Union Jack Pincushion ; Book Covers ; Knitting Needle Case. How to Knit— Toilet Set ; Vest for Infant ; Ser- viette Ring ; Mitten ; Sock for 3 Tears ; Hood for In- fant ; Stoclcings for Lady; Poultice Bandages; Beaded Cuffs; Elastic Belt; Lady's Combination Garment; CoUar and Cuffs ; Brioche Petticoat ; Stripe for Shawls, &c. How to Crochet— Ladies' Nightcap ; Chemise Top ; Infant's Bib ; Dress for 1 to 2 Tears ; Dress for 2 to 3 Tears ; Petticoat, 1 to 2 Tears ; Petticoat for 4 Tears ; Grannie Bonnet ; Bootikins ; Shawl in Shetland Wool ; Opera Cloak ; Wool Basket ; Scarf in Shell Stitch ; Shawj in Pyrenean Wool; Petticoat in Crazy Stitch; Shawl; Fluted Mat ; Petticoat in Fancy Trioot ; Fez Penwiper; Tippet ; Answers to Correspondents ; Sale Column ; &Q. No- 18 contains:- On Painting Useful Articles; I ace Making; Art Needlework; Umbrella Case; Bead- work ; Patchwork ; Embroidered Antimacassar ; Kniok Knacks. How to Knil^ Antimacassar ; Combinations J suppers; Infant's Hood; Petticoat; Socks; Edging; Glov.:s ; Drawers ; Gent's Vest ; Girl's Stocking ; Pier dish Cover ; Bed Rest. How to Crochet^Siiouldor Capo I Antimacassar ; Work Bag ; Slippers ; Shawl ! Couvrette ! Boots ; Lace Boa ; Wrap Shawl ; Sunflower pincushion, fiU the numbers are in print, and may be had of your Bookselier or Newsagent Three Numbers by post, 7 stamps, andsomely bound Volume, gilt cloth, price 3^., p$t 3 J. i,d. R. Cartwright, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR LADIES' FANCY WORK OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. ■■ < • » ♦ ^ MOUNTMELLICK EMBROIDERY. This style of embroidery deserves to be better known than it now is, for it has very many advantages. It is extremely inexpensive, wears practically for ever, is quickly executed, and is rich and effec- tive in appearance. Amongst the materials required are knitting cotton of two sizes, very coarse and very fine ; Nos. 4 and 12 are as good as any. For the foundation, sateen, jean, or calico may be used, but a good strong make of linen is better than either. Any con- ventional design is appropriate to the work, flowers, leaves and scrolls are those most often employed. The general idea that Mountmellick Embroidery may be worked in colours is a mistaken one. True Mountmellick is confined to white or cream colour, and when anything else is used, it loses one of its chief characteristics. The designs in all cases are worked so as to raise them more or less in relief above the founda- tion. We will begin by describing the principal stitches. There are several ways ofworking' leaves. Fig. I shows a somewhat elaborate way of filling in, which is only appropriate to leaves of a large size having a broad surface to be covered. The outside edge is worked in satin stitch, the stitches of which are long or short according to the indentations of the outline. Inside this satin stitch edge comes a row of isolated back stitches, about the tenth part of an inch in length ; if required more raised than this, the needle must make two FiG. I. stitches in . the same holes, one over the other. A row of feather stitch much spread out forms a sort of veining for the centre of the leaf. Fig. 2. represents a leaf filled in by making alter- nately a long and a short satin stitch. These are caught across half way by a stitch thrown across them, I somewhat in a slanting direction. When the leaf is filled in, a line of crewel stitch is carried up the middle to form a midrib. Fig. 3 is a closely filled in leaf, work- ed in satin stitch, alternately three long and two short stitches, to give an ap- pearance as of a much cut edge. The usual line of crewel stitch is worked up the centre. Fig. 4 shows a leaf that is worked with a stitch that in appearance bullion knot, but it is not worked in quite the same manner. Two or three long satin stitches are carried across from the centre of the leaf to the edge, much as though a loop for a hook to lasten into were to be worked. The thread is then twisted over and over these loops until they are quite covered, great care being taken to make them set evenly and smoothly by strok- ing them into place with the point of the needle. A line of crewel stitch should, if the leaf be a large one, be car- ried round the outside of these knots, but if they are placed evenly and closely, the leaf will not need any crewel stitch down Fig. 4. the centre. Fig. 5 shows yet another way of filling up a leaf, and that is by the use of a double row of button- hole stitches, the base of each stitch being placed in the centre of the leaf, and thus forming a central vein. In working the second row of these button- hole stitches, great care must be taken not to loop them into those that are already worked or the Fig. 5. Fig. 2. resembles a Fig. Fig. 7. little ridgy pattern in the centre will be uneven. This double row of button-hole stitches is sometimes used lor forming a centre to leaves such as that shown in Fig. I. Fig. 6 shows a method of filling in a circular design that can scarcely be considered as a leaf. The centre of the circle is crossed by a line of I crewel or stem stitch, and the rest of it is worked with back stitches that do not touch one another, as in ordinary back stitch, but are just a few threads apart. The outside outline is contrived by taking a strand of the coarser knitting cotton, laying it down all round the outline, and securing it in place Fig. 6. with stitches of the finer cotton, brought over it as in couching. While giving the details of this stitch, we may mention that most stems and scrolls are worked in this way, unless they are very thick, when raised satin stitch is called into requisition. Sometimes a double row of this couching is used, when the thrown over stitches should be slanted, not straight, thus giving the appearance of a cord, as in Fig. 7. Fig. 8 represents a blackberry, the stem of which is a single strand of the coarser cotton, caught down with the finer cotton. The fruit itself is worked in French knots with the coarser cotton, and the calyx is formed, in this case,of 4long chain stitches, the loops of which are caught down with a short stitch. Sometimes fruits like this are of a much larger size, and the spaces between the knots are then filled in with a series of back stitches, such as those shown in Fig. 6. This, of course, gives a Fig. 8. much richer appearance to the work. Fig. 9 shows a simple flower worked manner that is very much used in this style of embroidery — raised satin stitch. Each petal of the flower is worked first thickly in crewel/ stitch with the coarse cotton, thus forming a \ firm, thick foundation for the raised satin stitch which is worked over it. If the work is re- quired very much raised, a tiny ball of cotton wool is used instead of the crewel stitch. The centre of the flower is formed of a cluster of French knots. Raised satin stitch can also Fig. 9. be used for thick stems, buds, &c., also for thick scrolls, and twigs that are much bent about and yet require to be a good deal raised. Fig. 10 shows a conventional ear of barley worked in the same sort of knot as theleaf in Fig. 4. The grains of com are in pairs, and the " beards '• are put in with crewel stitch in the finer cotton. Fig. II is simply button-hole stitch, so arranged as to closely cover a large sur- face. This can require no further e.xpla- nation. To avoid breaking oft" at the end of a row, it is well to turn and work the button-hole stitches backwards for the next row. Some ladies are more clever than others in managing these sort of little things, which though of no importance in themselves, yet as a whole greatly affect the success of the work. Fig. 12 is a vandyked edge tliat is very useful as a border to larger designs. It Fig. ii. 211 THt ?ANCV WORlt-BASKET. Fig. 12. is simply satin stitch, ar- ranged in gradations of length, so as to make a series of small points ; this is very effective and easy to work. These are the principal stitches used in this work, an I in choosing the materials care must be taken to choose a dur- able quality of linen, otherwise the work will share the fate of the beautiful quilt mentioned in the Fancy Work-Bashet, p. 75, Vol. I. In such a case as this, the embroideryis good and substantial enough to bear transferring to a new piece of linen, but naturally this is a troublesome business,requiring much cleverness of manipulation and patience. Figs. 13 and 14 show two small sprays, which will give a very good idea of the sort of pattern most used for this work. They are both purely conventional. The scroll work in Fig. 13 is worked by laying down a thread of the coarser cotton,and throwing across it at regular inter- vals stitches of the finer cotton as in Fig. 8. The stem of the fruitlike de- sign is done in the same way, bu t two threads are laid down side by side instead of one only. The three FiG. I3- leaves below the fruit are in raised satin stitch, as in Fig. 9. French knots fill in the middle, and long bullion-like knots, as in Fig. 4, fill in the sides, an outside line of crewel stitch being worked on either side. The flower at the top is again raised satin stitch, with French knots in the centre. Fig. 14. The scrolls here may be worked either in crewel stitch or if preferred in small short satin stitches. The leaves would look well if the button - hole stitch figured in No. 5 be used. The fan- like design is a com- bination of raised satin stitch for the base, isolated back stitches (Fig. 6), in the middle, and but- ton-hole stitch (Fig. 11) for the top. A line of crewel stitch runs up the middle. It will be seen that many of the patent transferable pat- terns will lendthem- selves well to this style of embroidery. As to the uses to which this work FiG. 14. may be applied, we need scarcely say their variety is endless. Toilet sets, night dress cases, brush and comb bags, toilet covers, splash- backs, pillow shams and cases, sheets, tea cloths and quilts are just a few of the articles to which such embroidery is appropriate. Nothing could look better than a quilt made of large embroidered squares of white linen interspersed with squares of guipure lace or drawn linen. A bed quilt thus embroidered in small pieces, which are afterwards joined, is more convenient to work upon than larger arrangements, such as- a square the size of the top of the bed or even strips. In the article on Mountmellick Embroi- dery referred to above, capital directions are given for knitting a fringe with which to trim articles thus embroidered. By varying these directions slightly, an insertion can be made which is often more useful than a fringe. The cotton is wound three threads together as for the fringe, and nine stitches are cast on. 1st row — knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton for- ward, knit 2 together, knit 1. 2nd row — knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit I. Repeat these two rows until the insertion is long enough. This insertion makes an excellent heading to the fringe, if this be required extra wide, and it is also adapted for handles to brush and comb bags and such articles. Also if a quilt be embroi- dered in large squares or strips, an insertion like this has a very good effect if ii be. used to join the squares, much in the same way as squares of guipure lace are joined with strips of satin ribbon to make chair-backs. It is easilyand very quickly knitted, andforms a pleasant change from the rest of the work, especially in the evening and "be- tween the lights." For the opportunity of studying very beautiful specimens of true Irish-made Mountmellick Embroidery, we are in- debted to Messrs. Walpole Bros., of New Bond Street, through whose courtesy and attention we have been enabled to give a minute descrip- tion of the principal stitches used in this handsome work. LAMP AND CANDLE SHADES. In these days, when we see such pretty, cheap lamps, most ladies like to have a continual change of shades for them, but are apt to find these somewhat expensive when needed constantly fresh. A few hints and suggestions therefore, for their manufacture at home, at only a slight expense, may not be amiss. They are rather trouble- some to manage successfully, and require neatness and delicacy of manipulation. Much ingenuity and originality may be shown in the designs for these shades, but the patterns given with these directions will not, of course, be equally well suited to all kinds and shapes of lamps, therefore must be varied according to how they are to be used, and modifications made to suit the taste of the workers. Some of the shades described under the heading of " candle" shades, will be found equally suitable for use over the dainty little "Fairy Lamps." The simplest of all shades for any lamp to which it is appropriate is an ordinary thin silk hand- kerchief of a pretty colour, such as pale blue or green ; rose -colour looks cheerful and pretty, but alters the light of the lamp more than is always becoming to the complexions of the inmates of the room. Coloured crape is also pretty, but is more difficult to embroider or ornament than the silk. Extra charming in effect, too, is a circle of printed muslin bordered with very fine lace. Some of this muslin can be procured as cheaply as threepence a yard, and this is quite as effective as the more expensive kinds. In making up the muslin it is well to try which way the pattern will show up best. Some kinds of muslin look more satisfac- tory if the right side is placed next the light, and others if the wrong side is turned towards it (Fig i). In any case, whe- ther the lamp-shade is to be square or round, the material chosen must be laid flat on the table, and a circle traced in the middle of it, exactly the size of the top of the globe of the lamp. The pencilled line is then either embroidered with button-hole stitch or chain- stitch, and the central part afterwards cut away. Painting is a most effective way of ornamenting these flat shades, or, failing this, a very delicate embroidery, mostly worked in fine stitches similar to outline work will be found to answer well. Another very satisfactory way of decorating these shades when they are made of thin silk is to get a piece of FlG. I. moderately coarse white or cream-coloured lace, with a floral pattern on it, sprays by preference. Cut out a nice spray, arrange THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. it tastefully on the shade, and tack it into place. Then with either white or coloured silk (the latter is prettier) button-hole round the edges of the lace spray, and accentuate the more prominent parts of it, by working them in with the coloured silk. Be careful as far as possible to keep the stitches made on the wrong side at the exact back of those made on the right side, or a confused appearance will be given when the shade is thrown over a lighted lamp. Arrange more sprays all round the lamp shade, so that they appear to form a wreath round the part of it that is over the globe of the lamp. The edges of these shades must either be finished with a narrow silk fringe or with a very fine lace, according to taste and con- venience. Innumerable elegant shades can be made by purchasing at small cost some skeleton shapes made of wire, to be had at most lamp-shops. These are not difficult to cover with silk, muslin, or any thin material. The most satisfactory, but perhaps more ex- travagant way of covering a wire frame of this kind is to lay it on a width of the material spread flat on a table. Cut the material the shape and half an inch larger all round than the frame, and sew it to both outer and inner circles of wire, being careful that it sets smoothly. Add a stitch or two to the ribs if deemed necessary. Then the frame is ready to receive its smart outside cover. The other vvay of covering the skeletons is to cut a piece of silk for each divi- sion and sew it carefully to the wires at the top, bottom, and sides. This method of procedure does not require so much silk, but it is more trouble and much more difficult to manage satisfactorily. The cover may be made of fine white or cream-coloured lace, arranged in narrow frills round and round till the shape is covered, and with a flounce some inches in depth at the bot- tom (Fig. 2), or it may be made of one broad piece of lace, wide enough to reach the whole width of the shade, in- cluding a deep flounce. It is simply gathered round the small circle, and again round the longer and larger one. Now that lace flounces are po- pular for dresses, there should be no difficulty in obt^ning lace that will do for one of these frames. The silk underneath may be of any brightly coloured thin silk, or if the tint 01 silk be a pretty one, it need not be covered with lace at all, but gathered on to the frame and justborderedwith a falling frill of lace round the edge. Sometimes these, or similar shaies, are covered with innumerable quillings of silk, the edges of which are slightly ravelled out and finished by a coloured silk fringe. Pale lemon coloured silk is charming in effect for a shade of this sort. Small candle shades can be made in as many different styles as the larger ones. The shape of the foundation is obtained by cutting the material in the form of a large circle, measuring twelve inches across. Out of the centre of this cut a smaller circle, measuring four inches across. Fold the ring thus made exactly in half, and cut it down where the fold comes. The result will be two semi-circular shapes, each of which can be transformed into a candle-shape. The two short sides are laid together, and kept in place by means of a strip of gummed paper fastened down the edges of them both inside and outside to keep them together. Then follows the decoration, always the pleasantest part of the work. Lace may bi gathered over them just as before described for the lamp shades, or they may be covered with a frilling ol Fig. 2. coloured muslin, into which are introduced a number of small, good artificial flowers. They may also be covered with ruchings of silk or v/ith gauze If they are required nearly transparent, they may be made up simply over a wire frame, or may be made of white or pink tracing-paper, decorated with bands of fancy gold paper. They look very pretty if made of two semi- circles of tracing-paper, on one of which small black sil- houette figures have first been fastened, then the other shape of paper is gummed over it, and the edges ornamented with a gold paper beading. iJried leaves and flowers may take the place of the figures between the papers, if pre- ferred. These shades can also be contrived of plain white, or tinted card, painted Fig. 3. in various styles. Representa- tions of playing-cards grouped round the shade are approved of by card players (Fig 3) ; while to those whose eyes are delicate, noth- ing is more acceptable than a shade covered with plain green silk. Sometimes these shades are made flat, and are intended only to shade the light of the candle on one side. These are verj' French in appearance, and can be made in an innumerable pretty and ^ fantastic forms. They are easy enough to make,and indeed consist only of a wire shape covered with silk of the required colour. They also look pretty, and are quite as effectual as shades, if they are covered with net drawn over the shape and edged with a narrow, but full ruching of white lace. Either a rosette of ribbon or lace, or a tiny spray of artificial flowers may be used in the centre as a finish. The shape may be oblong, oval, or round, while nothing could be prettier than one made like a miniature fan of white lace. The lace is amply wired and will then keep well in place. White stiffened net may be used to keep it in order if the wire is found too troublesome to manage. The drawing [Fig. 4^ shows one in the form of a pansy, or heartsease, which answers per- fectly. The five shapes for the petals are made of wire and net, over which silk of two colours is drawn, three being purple and two yellow. The markings of the flower are worked in silk of the proper colour, and a small tuft of yellow chenille forms the centre. Experience will suggest other Fig. 4. equally pretty shapes, as soon as one has been successfully arranged ; for example, a butterfly, and a large round flower, like a single dahlia, will both look well. A single leaf contrived of green silk, embroidered to look as much as possible like a leaf, is pretty ; while for real hard work, such as reading, writing and studying, nothing can be better than a circle of wire, covered with green silk, gathered rather fully over it. Babies' Wool Hats Irom 2s. ; Polo Caps, 2s. bJ. Knitting or crochet commenced or finished reasonably. K. W., 27, Margaret St., Cavendish Sq., London. The Creeve Knitting Card. Rules and scales for knitting stock- ings and socks of any size. A perfect fit ensured. By A. E. K, Price 3d. each, post-lree. — Box 10. P. O., Ballymena, Ireland. Ladies Interested in Fancy AVork, especially those wishing to make money thereby, should send for Dorinda's book, " Needlework for Ladies for Pleasure and Profit," New Edition, 194 Pages, price is. Sd., post-free. Contains an enormous amount of information, ample instruc- tions for every variety of work, innumerable recipes and directions, novel ideas, and valuable suggestions. Address — RiNt^ROSE, Malvern Link. 1-11 TttE FANCY WORK-BASKET. CROCHET NETTING OR SIMPLE FOURCHE WORK. This work is done in exactly the same way as the old-fashioned hairpin work, which is now revived under the above title, and is most fashionable at the present time, especially with the Parisian ladies ; and it can be used for many purposes, such as clouds, scarfs, antimacassars, edgings, fringe, &c. You must obtain a wood netting prong, which can be bought for bd., and a fine bone crochet hook for wool, and steel for cotton ; size to match cotton used. To commence you hold the prong in your left hand. Make a loop on crochet hook or tie a loop on the prong, twist the wool round the left side of prong, drawing it through the loop on the hook from the centre of prong ; take your hook out, and turn the prong, which brings the wool in front ; put it over the right side of prong to the back, put the crochet hook into the loop from which you have just taken it, and draw wool through; work a double crochet stitch, which makes it firm, and forms a foundation, or centre, to the work, as shown by the illustration. Hold work in the right hand, and turn the prong. Work in same way I chain stitch, i double cro- chet. Continue like this until your prong is filled up ; then slip it off. Slip back the last 2 loops each side on to the prong again, and work the length you require. Fig. 2 — How to join the stripes by a simple slipstitch. Fig. 3 — Insertion — you work a length on the netting prong ; slip it off", and with crochet hook take up 3 loops from the back, Fig. I. which twists the loops into a Fig. 2. bunch, and forms a pattern ; i double crochet to confine them. Work all along in this way to end. Work the other side in the same way. These stripes can be joined together by another colour of wool on the right side for antimacassars, or make a nice heading for fringe it wanted deep. Fig. 4— Star— work 20 loops on netting prong ; slip off, and draw them all up on one side very firmly. Work round the other side 3 or 4 chain, i double crochet into each 222 Fig. 3. Fig. 4. loop, from the back, which crosses the stitch; repeat all round. Now work a row of treble i into each chain stitch all round. For edge — 2 double crochet, 3 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain stitch to form a picot. 2 double crochet, 3 chain, the last caught back into the ist chain stitch to form a second picot. Work in this way all round, until there are 24 picots. These stars are for antimacassars, and with double Berlin wool make very pretty toilette mats. Fig. 5 — Fringe — work a length as much as you require, as near as you can guess ; slip it off. Work I chain, i double crochet into each stitch from the back, crossing it. 2nd row — i treble into every chain stitch. 3rd row — 2 double crochet, 3 chain,the last chain caught , , . , ?" .5' . , , , back mto the ist cham stitch to form a picot ; 2 double crochet and a picot all along as a heading. Knot 3 strands of wool into each stitch on the other side from the back. Cut the ends very even. This can be worked in coarse crochet or knitting cotton for toilette covers. The pattern is in 2 colours of wool, and useful for edgingtablecovers,brackets,&c. Fig. 6 — Scarf, for which you will require half an ounce of blue single Berlin wool, half an ounce of white. Work a length of 90 loops on the prong with blue wool, and 2 lengths in white. Join up by I chain, i double crochet or slip- stitch ; I stripe of blue and white to- gether ; take the hook right through both loops of white and blue, from the back of stitches, which crosses the stitch. Join the white to the other side of blue in same way ; at the edge work I chain, i double crochet into each loop in the same way, which keeps the edge firm. Fringe each end with wool to match the stripes. Fig. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Macrame Work. {Continued.) No, 35. The Almond Eye Pattern. 32 strings, 3^ yards each. Put ttiem on foundation line. There are 3 insertion rows and the point. For the ist insertion row you take 8 strings to a pattern. Hold the 2nd string in the left hand and with the 1st in right hand do i macrame knot on to the 2nd string. Work it, leaving a little margin or parting between the ist and 2nd part of the stitch. Repeat this with the ist thread on to the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th strings, thereby making a slant- ing bar of parted stitches. Do 7 more of these bars along, and put on the 2nd foundation line, having knotted the thread on to it. Now do the 2nd insertion. Do i row of Solomon's knots, as fig. 9, 4 threads to each knot, making 16 in the row. 2nd row : Leave 2 strings, and with the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, loth, nth, I2th, 13th, and 14th make 3 Solomon's knots. * Miss 4 strings and do 3 more knots. Repeat from * twice, leaving 2 strings at the end. 3rd row : Work 2 knots with the 8 centre strings of the 3 knots of preceding row. Repeat all along 4th row. Work i knot with the 4 centre strings of the 2 knots of preceding row. Now with the ist string in right hand work a parted bar down the side of the knot, the same bar as in the ist insertion, using the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th strings. Then with the 17th in left hand work a similar bar down the other side of knots on the i6th, 15th, 14th, 13th, i2th, nth, loth, 9th, and Sth. Count again, and with the 17th in right hand work down the side of next knots. Repeat all along. Now fill up the spaces with Solomon's knots, 10 knots in each of the 3 centre spaces and 4 at each end. Put on the 3rd foundation line. After this you work the 3rd insertion in the same pattern of parted stitch bars, as the ist insertion, only the reverse way. Work with the 8th thread in the left hand and use as leaders the 7th, 6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st in right hand. Do 8 patterns, then put on the last founda- tion line. Now for the point leave 4 strings at the beginning, and with the 5th, 6th, 7th, Sth, 9th, loth, nth, and 12th make a Solo- mon's knot, using the 4 centre ones as leaders, and work with 2 each side. Take the 1st of the 4 left at the beginning in right hand and work a slanting parted bar with the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and Sth. Hold the 2nd in left hand, and knot the ist on to it. Hold the 3rd in same hand and knot the 2nd and 1st on to it. Do 3 more bars. Make a Solomon's knot with the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th. With the i6th in left hand make a long slanting parted bar, using as leaders the 15th, 14th, 13th, 12th, nth, loth, 9th, Sth, 7th, 6th, Sth, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and ist. Then again under foundation line miss 4. Make a Solomon's knot of the following 8 threads— take the 17th in right hand and make parted bar with 18th, 19th, 20th, 21st, 22nd, 23rd, and 24th; then with the 13th, 14th, 15th, i6th, 17th, i8th, 19th, and 20th make a Solomon's knot, Take the 9th in right hand and make a slanting parted bar with the loth, nth, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and i6th. Hold the 32nd in left hand, and work a long bar with 31st, 30th, 29th, 28th, 27th, 26th, 25th, 24th, 23rd, 22nd, 2ist, 20th, 19th, l8th, 17th, and i6th. You have now i full pattern. Make 2 more the same, then finish same as at the beginning. The bottom part is all Solomon's knots, 4 threads to a knot. FiU up the spaces with Solomon's knots, i in the centre, 2 on 2nd row, 3 on 3rd row, 4 on 4th row, then 1 5 right across, leaving 2 strings at each end, continue to reduce i knot on each row by leaving 2 strings at each end till you come down to i knot. Then work bars down the side. Hold the 1st in right hand, knot 3 on to it in the ordinary way, not parted bars, then hold the 1st again and knot 7 on to it. Hold the 5th in same hand, knot 7 on to it, leave 4. Hold the next, knot 7, and so on down the side. Work the other side the same. The fringe is composed of small knots a quarter inch apart. No. 36. Cone Shape Wcek-Basket. This pattern shows a new way of knotting on the threads. The pattern is in white twine and pale blue satin lining made up on a cardboard shape. The extreme length of the cardboard is 13J inches, and the width at the widest part is 6J inches. This is sloped off to nothing at each end in a rounded form, not straight. You must first cut out a correct paper pattern of the entire size, and putting it in the centre of the board you pencil the shape on to the board. Now put your foundation cord straight along the centre of the shape length way of the pattern ; this done, you must cut 96 strings for the leaf side of the basket, each string to measure 3 yards. Take I thread, pass it up under the foundation line till you have i yard each side the line ; then knot it on in the usual manner, and do so with the other 95 strings. We will describe one leaf, and all the rest are the same, except at the edges, where you must fill up with parts of leaves to the shape marked on the board. There are 6 strings to a leaf. Take 6, hold the 4th in left hand, slanting it in that direction, and knot the 3rd, 2nd, and ist on to it. Hold the 4th in right hand, slanting it in that direction, and knot the sth and 6th on to it. Hold the 4th in left hand, knot the 3rd and 2nd on to it, close up under the 1st bar. Hold the 4th in right hand, and knot the Sth on to it. Hold the 4th in left hand, and knot the 3rd on to it. Hold the 6th in left hand, knot the 5th and 4th on to it. Hold the 1st in right hand, knot the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th on to it. When you have worked it to the shape on board you cut the strings off, leaving J inch all round, these you fringe out and comb. The other side of the basket is in 2 patterns. For this side you will require 100 strings 2 yards long. Put the foundation line on in the same manner as for the other side, and knot all the strings on the same. One half of this side is all Solomon's knots made as Fig. 9, with 4 threads to each. There are 25 knots on the ist row, 24 on the 2nd, 23 on the 3rd, 24 on the 4th, 23 on the 5th, 22 on the 6th| 22 on the 7th, 21 on the Sth, 20 on the 9th, 19 on the loth, 18 on the nth, 15 on the 12th, 14 on the 13th, n on the 14th, 8 on the 15th, and 5 on the i6th. The other half of this side is all of twists as Fig. 8. The ist twist has 4 stitches, the 2nd 8 stitches, the 3rd 10 stitches, the 4th 13, the sth 16, the 6th iS, the 7th 20, the Sth, 9th, loth, nth, i2th, 13th, 14th, 15th, i6th, 17th and i Sth, all have 23 stitches. The 19th has 20 ; the 20th 18 ; the 21st 16 ; the 22nd 13 ; the 23rd 10 ; the 24th 8 ; the 25th 4. Then for the edge— to 223 secure the twists, put on a foundation line and guide it round to the shape on board, knotting each thread on to it twice. Cut the fringe same as on the other side. The handles are 2 twists made separ- ately ; 8 threads inside, and i each side, to work with. Each handle measures 11 inches. There are 2 tassels to each handle, I J inches each. You require 3 pieces of cardboard all to be covered with satin for the outside, and sateen for the inside. Then stitch the work neatly on two of these shapes, the other is for the bottoni. Then stitch the 3 pieces together, leaving I side for the opening. The ends are finished with small ribbon bows, the same colour as the lining. No. 37. Toilet Tidy or Watch Pocket. . This is a pretty, effective, and simple pattern. It is worked in 2 pieces. For the front you will require 24 strings ij yards each. Put them on to a foundation line as Fig. 4. It requires 8 threads to each star. With the 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th make a Solomon's knot as Fig. 9. Hold the ist in right hand, and, slanting it in that direction, knot the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th on to it. Do another bar. Hold the 8th in left hand, knot the 7th, 6th, and 5th on to it ; again hold the 8th in left hand, and knot on the 7th. Hold the _ 4th in left hand, and knot the 3rd, 2nd, and Ist on to it. Take the 8 following threads, and with the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th make a Solomon's knot. Hold the 1st in right hand, and knot on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Do 2 bars with the 7th and 8th of ist star, and ist and 2nd of next star. Make a Solomon's knot. Hold the 5th of ist star in right hand, and with the 6th, 7th and 8th do 2 bars. With the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th of ist star, make a Solomon's knot. Hold the 8th of 2nd star in left hand, and knot the 7th, 6tli, and 5th on to it. Hold again the 8th in same hand, and knot 7 on to it. Hold the 12th in same hand, and knot 7 on to it. Hold the 8th in same hand, and knot 3 on to it. You will now see it is all the same. The rows are counted downwards, slanting to the left. In the 1st row you have I knot, in the 2nd 3 knots, in the 3rd 4 knots, in the 4th 5 knots, in the 5th 6 knots, in the 7th 6 knots, and decreasing up the side. You must work down each side. Hold the ist in right hand, knot 3 on to it, again knotting 7 on to it ; hold the 5th, knot 7 on to it ; the 9th, knot 7 on to it. Repeat on the other side. The top part is the same pattern. 16 threads I yard each. Cut out 2 pieces of card- board of the following dimensions : — Take a piece 7 J inches long, and 4I inches broad. Make a pencil mark each side, 3 inches from one end. Cut 2 pieces from this mark to the centre of the card, slanting, to form a point. Make another mark i| inches higher, and cut each side slightly slanting, so that the card measures 35 inches where the 2nd mark was made. Make another mark ij inches higher, and cut very slightly slanting from second mark, but outwardly, so that the card measures 3 J inches at the 3rd mark. Now slant the other end to a complete point, as you did the first. This is the back of tidy. The 2nd piece should measure 5^ across and 4 inches long. Make a pencil mark ij deep, and slant from here to a perfect point. This is for the front. Cover them with satin. Stitch the work on. Sew the pieces together. Cut the fringe h^lf an inch long. Fringe it out and finish the top with ribbon loop or bow. NETTED DOYLEY. Required : i skein of Arden's crochet cotton, No. 18, one small round bone needle. No. 9 Bell Gauge, and one flat mesh i inch wide. Net 19 loops into your foundation, then net 11 rows with the small mesh, No. 9. In the last loop you made, net 5 loops with large mesh (it is the corner stitch), 4 loops into the next loop on the long side, then 3 loops into the next, then * I loop into the next, 2 loops into the next ; repeat from * until you come to the last 3 loops of the row, then net 3 loops into the next loop, 4 loops into 224 ' the next loop, and 5 loops into the last loop (which is a corner loop). For the short side, turn and pin your netting on to a heavy cushion or on to your knee, until you have com- pleted the row of netting with the large mesh, which brings you to the first 5 loops that you netted in the ist corner. For the short side net 4 loops into the loop next to the corner loop, then 2 loops into the next loop, and 2 loops into the next, then 4 loops into the next loop and 5 loops into the comer loop, then net 4 loops into the next loop on the long side, following the directions as above for the long side, and for the other short side. To help those who have not done much netting, we will give the details. After netting the 5 loops into the corner loop of the short side, net 4 loops into the next loop on the next long side, and 3 loops into the next loop, then * net i loop into the next, 2 loops into the next ; repeat from * until you come to the last 3 loops in the row, then net 3 loops into the next loop, 4 loops into the next loop, and 5 loops into the last loop (which is a corner loop). For the short side net 4 loops into the loop next to the corner loop, then 2 loops into the next loop, and 2 loops into the next loopi then 4 loops into the next loop, which brings you to the 1st corner stitch. Now with the small mesh net a loop into each loop all round and continue to do so until you have netted 1 1 rounds. Before using the small mesh run a piece of strong crochet cotton round the centre of your netting, and put it through the string that goes round your foot, and then tie it. If not fastened to the string, it allows it to move round as you net, and thus you get your loops even. For the border of points. With large mesh net 5 loops into every other loop to end of the round. With small mesh, net i round. Then for each point with the small mesh net 15 loops, turn back, net 14, turn back, net 13, turn back, net 12, netting I loop less in each row until you have but I loop at the extreme point, then cut off your cotton. For the next point tie the cotton to the next loop of the last point, and again net 15 loops, turn back and net 14 loops as in the last point, decreasing i loop in each row until there is but i loop left at the extreme point. Continue to net the points in the same way all round the net. When you have netted about half round the net, it will be better to count the loops to see if they will divide into 15 loops for the remaining points, if not, calculate how many loops you need to make up the last point of 1 5. Sup- posing you require 4 or 5 loops, then in 4 or 5 previous points make 2 loops mto the centre stitch of the ist row (it will not be noticed). Should a larger number be wanted, then in the 5th loop of the 1st row net 2 loops into it, and again net 2 loops into the loth loop, instead of making 2 loops in the centre loop, of course in each case netting the 15 loops in the 1st row (to in- clude the extra loops made.) When finished, cut off the ends of cotton, wash the net, and starch it in boiling starch to make it stiff, pull it into the right shape while it is drying, and raise each point by putting it round an Italian iron, so that it may form a sort of fulness or frill round the net. The oval net forms an elegant addition to any cake basket, or is very pretty on a dish for pastr}'; HO-W- TO l^J^:^:Bi LADIES AND CHILDREN'S UNDERCLOTHING, By Mrs. LEACH. 140 illustrations of how to cut out, make up and trim every description of Under- garment for Ladies and Cliildren of all ages. Of all Newsagents, or post free, 2id. . . R. S, CAKTWRiasT, 8, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, H!;C. THE FANCY WOKK-BASKET. WORK BASKET, CHEAP AND USEFUL. Ask your grocer in the autumn to save for you the baskets in which the salt butter comes. They should be about 13 inches in height, and about 12 inches across the top. Buy a yard of cretonne, or the material used for covering eider-down quilts, about gjd. a yard is very pretty, or red twill ; one and a half yards of red sarcenet ribbon, about li inches wide, and a small quantity of grey calico, rather wider than the bottom of the basket. If the grocer does not give you the basket, he will probably only charge 2d. or 3d., so that IS. 6d. will almost cover the cost of each one. A tin of Aspinall's enamel, either black or scarlet, which is gd. This you can get in all colours, and is invaluable for renewing baths, water cans, tin candlesticks, &c., &c., and a little goes a good way. Having painted your basket whatever colour you wish, proceed to cut a square out of the grey calico, rather larger and wider than the bottom of the basket. Then turn this all in neatly till it exactly fits the inside of the basket at the bottom. The ad- vantage of grey calico is that moths are said not to like it, so that it may serve to protect wool if kept inside. Then take the yard of cretonne, run it along one side on the inside and sew it to the piece of grey calico. Make a hem at the top about 4 inches in depth, and about i inch above this run it all round. Four button-holes 2 near together, and 2 exactly opposite to run the ribbon in. Fasten this bag into the basket, first round the bottom of the basket, and then round the top. You can make nice handles to the basket with rope about a id. a yard, 3 yards of white rope. If the basket has any handles, fasten the centre of i4 yards of rope to each handle. Put the 4 ends together, and wind thread round about four inches from the ends, which you must fringe out very thoroughly. The Zulu hat baskets are very pretty for flowers. Fasten the 4 sides securely to the crown. From these sides bring about i yard to | yard of rope. Tie together as in preceding basket and fringe out. Either cover the ends of the rope attached to the basket with bows of ribbon of 2 or 3 colours, or with a piece of woollen furniture fringe, which take all round the edge of the basket. The 4 sides which stand away from the crown ornament with rope in loops, fringing out the ends. It takes 3 yards of ribbon for bows, about i inch wide, and 6 yards of rope. The handle may be made by plaiting 3 strands of rope together, but we think the above is newer and prettier. The rope should be stiff enough to stand upright. Either glass globes with cut flowers or small pots of ferns are pretty. If you have flowers with many colours, the bows of ribbon should not be very bright, as one kills the other. Useful waste-paper baskets may be made with cardboard, the sheet turned round, and either sewn or pasted together. Get a circle cut for you out of millboard about 8 or 9 inches across. Cover this neatly with calico or common silk. The sash ribbon at 5ld. a yard does very nicely. Both sides must be equally neat. Then cover the cardboard with either the India muslin at 4d. a yard, on one side and the sash ribbon on the inside, or ask your upholsterer to let you have a book of paper patterns when he has done with it. Then you must still line the inside in order to have something you can sew the bottom to, and paste paper on the out- side. You will probably get lovely paper patterns in this way, and by varying the size can make umbrella stands, flower-pot covers, or waste-paper baskets, &c., &c. SACHET FOR HOLDING WHITE TIES. -i..^ The size of this sachet must be such that it is long enough to hold white ties folded in half and broad enough for two to lie easily side by side inside it. The case opens in book fashion, and the ties are kept in place by four straps of narrow white elastic put across mside from side to side of the case, two near the top and two near the bottom. The outside cover must be of plain coloured satin painted or embroidered prettily, and lined with quilted satin of a pale cream colour or white. A little scent powder is dusted into the wadding before the case is made up. The whole case must be edged with cord and three loops of the cord made at each ( corner. A loop of elastic and a pretty fancy button keep the case closed. Cases made in a similar style, but of a different size, are very useful for holding several pairs of gloves. Of course, the gloves must not be folded in half like the ties, so the case will require to be longer, and as the gloves are broader than ties, it will need also to be wider— otherwise, the make is much the same. SCREEN HOLD-ALL. This hold-all is a useful little article for hanging up on the wall of a dressing room or hall for holding button-hook scissors, watch, and sundry other necessaries which have in some households a special faculty for getting lost. It is contrived of an ordinary Japanese screen, covered with plush and with various pockets and bands on it to hold these things. Cut a piece of stiff card the exact size of the "blade " of the tan ; cover it with plush, and cut a little shield- shaped pocket for the watch ; lower down on the screen, add two small straps of plush to hold scissors and buttonhook ; obtain three or four small hooks and sew them to the cardboard in convenient places, on which to hang keys, shoe-horns, &c. Cover the fan on one side with silk, lay the plush side on the screen and sew the two together. Add a cord all round to hide the joins, and a natty little bow of ribbon on the handle with a loop to hang it up by. SUBSCRIPTION FORM FOR MRS, LEACH'S FANCY WORK-BASKET. NOTICE. Subscribers unable to procure the above from their Newsagent can have it forwarded direct from the Publisher for Twelve months, post free, for Thirty Stamps. To the PUELISHEK, Please to forward me MRS. LEACH'S B^JLOsrcir "woia:K:-E jls:k:et For Twelve Months, addrested to Mrs 2s.6d. enclosed. Commence with No. for ., /ar This Subscription entitles you to any Extra Hos. 225 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Knitting. TEA COSY. This pattern, though perhaps rather troublesome to an inexpe- rienced knitter, makes a really warm and useful as well as hand- some cosy, and well repays the worker. Any colours liked, so that there are three distinct shades, may be used. Our model was knitted with 2 shades of drab and a pretty bright coral red, 4- ply fingering wool. Materials required : 7 skeins of red, and 2 skeins of each shade of drab, 4-ply fingering wool, best quality, or if a handsome cosy is wished, moss silk, or crystal wool, can be recommended ; half a yard of a soft thick flannel, and a large sheet of good wadding, 4 rather long bone knitting needles, without knobs, No. II, gauged by H. Walker's Bell Gauge, 2 long bone needles with knobs at one end the same size, and 2 short bone needles, No. 12. With the coral red wool and 4 needles, No. 11, cast on rather loosely, on 3 of the 4 needles, 180 stitches, and knit 10 rounds in plain knitting, join on the darker shade of drab wool, and knit nth round with it plain. 12th round — * knit 2 stitches plain and 2 purl ; repeat from * all round. 13th and 14tli rounds — same as 12th round. Join on the red wool, and repeat from the nth round. 18tli round— join on the lighter shade of drab wool, and knit 4 rounds, the same way as the last 4 rounds ; join on the red wool, and repeat 4 last rounds ; join on the darker shade of drab wool, and for the 27th round — * knit 4 stitches plain, make a stitch by lifting a loop from the last round, and knitting it as a stitch ; repeat from * all round. There should be 225 stitches on the needles, at the end of this (the 27th) round. The plait pattern is now commenced, which is knitted in squares. For the 1st round of squares — * knit 4 stitches plain, make i (the same way as in 27th round), knit 2 together, turn the work, so as to have the wrong side ot it towards you, purl 6 stitches, turn the work again, knit 4 stitches plain, knit 3 together, turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together, turn the work, purl 5, knit 4 plain, knit 2 together ; repeat from *, knitting the stitches on the 27 th round for the next and succeeding squares, till all the stitches are knitted. There should be 23 squares. For the 2nd round of squares — join on the lighter shade of drab wool, and with it f pick up 5 stitches on the side of the square of the darker shade of drab wool, purling each stitch as it is picked up, turn the work, * knit 5 plain, turn the work, purl 4, purl 2 stitches together (taking a stitch of the darker and lighter drab), turn the work and repeat from * 4 times more, and then repeat from f all round. For the 3rd round of squares — turn the work, join on the red wool, t pick up 5 stitches on the side of the square of the lighter . drab, knitting each stitch as it is picked up, * turn the work, purl 5, turn the work, knit 4 stitches plain, knit 2 together ; repeat from * 4 times more, then repeat fromt, taking the next square of lighter drab, to end of the round. Continue knitting rounds of squares, same as 2nd and 3rd rounds of squares, changing the shades as they come in order thus : darker drab, lighter drab, coral red, until there are 15 rounds of squares knitted altogether, ending with the red wool ; cast off. .F'or the inside of the cosy or lining, knit 2 pieces in looped knit- ting with the red wool, shaping them as directed thus : on the two long bone needles with knobs at one end, No. 11, cast on 66 stitches and knit ist row plain, always slip the ist stitch at the beginning ot the row, and knit the last plain, taking the back ot the stitch. 2nd row — * put the needle into the next stitch (having blipppd the 1st) as if about to knit it, put the wool round the needle 226 and also round the ist finger twice, then put the wool round the needle only, and knit oft all the loops (3) as I stitch ; repeat from * to the end of the row ; repeat from the 1st row 9 times more, then decrease i stitch at the beginning and end of the next looped knit- ting row by knitting 2 stitches together. 23rd row — knit plain. 24:th. row — knit in looped knitting. 25th. row— knit plain ; repeat from 22nd row 6 times more. There should now be 52 stitches on the needles. Now decrease in the same way as in the 22nd row, in every looped knitted row, till only 4.0 stitches remain. Cast off. There should be 60 rows in all, 30 plain rows and 30 rows in looped knitting. Knit the 2nd piece exactly same as the ist piece. For the trimming which is sewed round the bottom of the cosy, just near the edge where the cord is generally put, taking care to sew each stitch ot the trimming, at the casting on part, so as it will lie flat on the cosy, cast on 120 stitches on the needles No. 12 with the darker shade of drab wool. 1st row—* knit i stitch plain, make I stitch by putting the wool over the needle ; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row — purl. 3rd row — join on the lighter shade of drab wool, and knit same as 1st row. 4th row— same as the 2nd row. Join on the red wool and knit 5th row the same as the 1st row. 6th row — same as the 2nd row; there should be 960 stitches now on the needles ; cast off. For 2nd piece of trimming, knit exactly the same as ist piece, but only casting on 100 stitches instead of 120. To make up the cosy, cut 2 pieces of flannel the same size as the looped knitted pieces, and 4 pieces of wadding the same size ; place the flannel between the pieces of wadding, and sew the 6 pieces together, sew the 2 knitted pieces with the red wool neatly together, then place the knitted cosy over the 6 pieces, and hem the cosy, turning it over the flannel and wadding, in the inside, having 5 ot the 10 plain rounds at the beginning of the cosy turned up ; when hemmed round, sew the wadding, &:c., to the cosy, turning in the cosy to shape at the rounded part, and sewing it toge- ther at the top; now put in the looped knitting or lining and sew it in with red wool, and put on the trimming, 'which will fall into place, if neatly sewn on; put the trimming round the cosy and along the bottom. , , EGG BASKET. A pretty ornament for breakfast or high tea table. Materials required: — Any sized basket of a smooth inexpensive kind may be selected. The model was of an oblong shape, holding about 10 eggs. The bottom measures 7 inches in length by 4 inches in width, 24 inches round the outside of the basket, and 3i inches in depth. The handle is 10 inches across, and about i inch wide. 5 skeins of scarlet, or any shade of red preferred, 4-ply fin- gering wool, best quality, 2 bone knitting needles. No. 11, gauged by H. Walker's Bell Gauge, and some rather thick soft flannel, the same shade as the wool, to cover the basket, inside and out, and also the handle. The basket is covered with looped knitting, which is knitted in 5 separate pieces. Knit 2 pieces in looped knitting thus: — Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row — knit plain ; always slip the 1st stitch at the beginning of the row, and knit the last plain, taking the back part of the stitch. 2nd row — * put the needle into the next stitch (having slipped the 1st) as if about to knit it, put the wool round the needle and also round the ist finger of the left hand twice, then put the wool round the needle only, and knit off all the THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. loops (3) as one stitch ; repeat trom * to the end of the row. Repeat from the ist row till there is enough to go half round the basicet, the model had 36 patterns. Cast off. Knit the 2nd piece exactly the same. For stripe to cover the handle : — Cast on 8 stitches and knit in looped knitting as in first 2 pieces till the stripe is long enough to cover the handle, about 36 patterns. For the piece for the bottom:— Cast on 12 stitches and knit in the looped knitting in the same way as the other pieces, but increasing i stitch (by knitting first the front and then the back of the stitch) at the beginning and end of every 4th row, commencing at the ist row of looped knitting, till there are 20 stitches on the needle, then continue the pattern or loops till the piece is large enough (about 24 rows) to cover the bottom of the basket, finishing the piece by decreasing (knitting 2 stitches together) at the beginning and end of every 4th row till only 12 stitches remain. Cast off. For the cover: — Cast on 25 stitches, and knit in the same way as the other pieces ; increase i stitch at the beginning and end of every 4th row till there are 31 stitches on the needle. Knit till the piece is large enough (about 50 rows) and then decrease every 4th row till only 25 stitches ■•emain. Cast off. To make up the basket : — Cut 2 pieces of flannel the size of the bottom part of the basket, and a stripe for the handle, also a stripe long enough to go round the basket and twice the depth. Sew the flannel on, cutting the long piece at the middle up as far as the handle, cover the handle, sew in the piece of flannel for the inside, and last, the piece for the outside, then place the 2 pieces that were knitted first round the basket, joining them up as far as the handle, then sew neatly on the flannel at the bottom (outside piece), cover the handle with the stripe knitted for it, and sew round the bottom, drawing the knitting into its place, and keeping it rather tight ; place the piece for the inside, attaching it with a few stitches in its place. Sew with a piece of the wool, same as used for the knitting. Leave the top piece or cover loose. A smaller egg basket, to hold 2 or 3 eggs, covered with moss knitting, worked from the following direc- tions, well repays the worker. For a large breakfast table, several of these little baskets are very orna- mental as well as useful, and when flowers are scarce, are a great help to decorate the table. Materials re- quired : a light basket, to measure about 17 inches round the outside, 3 inches in depth, 8 inches across the handle, 5^ inches in length and 2 inches in width, enough soft woollen material, the colour of moss, as will cover the basket, inside and out, also the handle, and a piece for the cover, 2 steel knitting needles, No. 12, gauged by H. Walker's Bell Gauge, and 4 skeins of green shaded Berlin wool, as much the colour of moss as possible. Cast on 7 stitches, and knit in plain knitting, like a garter, always slipping the ist stitch and knitting the back of the last stitch. If a loose knitter take needles a size smaller. When all the wool is knitted up, cast off 2 stitches and fasten off the wool, leave the remaining stitches on the needle, and dip the work into water, and with a rather hot smoothing iron, iron the work, putting a piece of thick muslin between the work and the iron. When perfectly dry, take the needle out and ravel out row by row. Cut from the material a piece 18 inches by 7, and on it sew the knitting at the firm edge (where the 2 stitches were cast off) in rows, so as to cover the material well ; cover the sides of the basket with this piece, slitting it up about 3 inches to allow one end of the handle to come through, the other end will come where the piece is joined up. Cut a piece for bottom of the basket, and when covered with the moss knitting, sew it in, then cover the handle with a stripe of the material, and when sewn on, put the moss knitting in rows round and round the handle, sewing it neatly on. For the cover — cut a piece the size required, allowing about ^ an inch, which turn down on the right side and on it sew the knitted moss in rows, till it is all covered. Cover the outside of the bottom with a piece of the material, but put no moss on it. LAUREL LEAF PATTERN. Fifteen stitches for each pattern, everj' other row purled. 1st row — take 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, knit 2 together. 3rd row — same as ist. 5tli row — knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together. 7th. row — knit 2 together, knit i, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, knit 2 together. 9th row — knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 7, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together. 11th row — knit i, * make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 4, make I, knit 2 together, repeat ; at end of row knit I. 13th row — knit i, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i. 15th and 17th rows— like the 13th. 19tli row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. 21st row — knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2. 23rd row — knit 4, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 3. 25th. row — knit 2 together, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit 4; at end of row knit 3, knit 2 together. 27th row — same as ist. TURKISH PATTERN LACE. Materials required ; boar's head cotton N0.20, pins No. 20, Walkers Gauge.Cast on i5 stitches. 1st row — knit all plain. 2nd row — knit 3, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton over the pin tn-ice, knit 2 together, cotton over the pin twice, knit 2 together, cotton over the pin twice, knit 2 together, cotton over the pin twice, knit 2 together, cotton over the pin twice, knit 2 together, cotton over the pin twice, knit 2 together (cotton over pin twice, 6 times in all), knit l. 3rd row— knit 3, purl i,knit 2,purll,knit 2, purl I, knit 2, purl r, knit 2, purl i, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit I. 4tli row— knit 3, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 16, 5tli row — knit 18, cotton forward, and knit 2 together, knit i. 6th row — knit 3, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton over the pin twice, knit 2 together, cast 9 stitches off the left hand pin, by knitting i and then slipping it upon the left hand pin, and drawing 9 stitches over it, without knitting them. Now cast on 7 stitches on the right hand pin, knit 2 together, cotton over the pin twice, knit 227 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, 2 together, knit l. 7tli row— knit 3, purl 10, knit I, purl I, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit I. 8tli row— knit 3, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 15. 9tb row— cast off 4 stitches (not too tight) knit 12, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit i. Now commence again at the 2nd row. VINE LEAF PATTERN. Twenty stitches to pat- tern. 1st row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, purl i,knit 2 to- gether, purl I, slip I, knit i, pass slip I over, purl i, slip I, knit I, pass slip i over, make I, knit I, make i, knit 2 to- gether, make i, knit I. 2nd row — purl knitting, except the stitches purled in last row, which are to be knitted. 8rd row — knit 2, make I , knit 2 together, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 3 to- gether, purl I, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, make i, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. 4th row — same as 2nd. 5th row — knit 2, make l, knit 2 together, make i, knit J, make i, slip I, knit 2 together, pass slip i over, make i, knit 5, make i, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. 6th. row— purl. 7tli row — knit 2, make i, knit 2 together, make I, knit i, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl i, slip i, knit i, pass over slip stitch, knit i, make I, knit 2 together, make i, knit i. 8th row — same as 2nd. Repeat the pattern from the ist row. LOZENGE PATTERN. Cast on 9 stitches for each pattern, and 3 extra for edges. 1st row — slip I, knit 2, * make i, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit l, knit 2 together, make i, knit i ; repeat from *, end row with knit 3. 2nd row — slip i, knit i, purl all but the last 2, which should be knitted. 3rd row — same as ist. 4th row — same as 2nd. 5th row — same as 1st. 6th row — same as 2nd. 7th row — same as ist. 8th row — same as 2nd. 9th row — slip i, knit 3, * make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make I, knit 3 ; repeat from *, end row with knit 2. 10th row — same as 2nd. 11th. row^slip i, knit 2, knit 2 together, * make i, knit I, make I, slip i, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over, knit i, knit 2 together ; repeat from *, end row with knit i. 12th row — same as 2nd. 13th row — same as nth. 14th row — same as I2th. 15th row — same as nth. 16th row — same as 12th. 17th row — same as nth. 18th row — same as 12th. 19th row — slip I, knit I, knit 2 together, * make i, knit 3, make I, slip I, knit 2 to- 228 gether, pass the slipped stitch over ; repeat from *,,end row with make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, knit i. 20th row — same as 2nd. NIGHT SOCKS FOR INFANT. For one pair of socks you will require i an oz. ot An- dalusian wool, 2 knitting pins No. 12, and i yard of narrow white ribbon. Cast on 62 stitches. 1st round — which is for the foot, slip I, knit i, taking the slip I off at the front of the needle by put- ting the needle in from right to left of the stitch. 2nd row — same. Always begin with slip I and end with knit I. Work 16 rows like this altogether for the toe, which will be about an inch. Now knit 2 together at the beginning and end of the row, at the same end of sock, viz., front, doing the same every time. You come back to the same place until you have only 34 stitches left for the leg. Now knit about 25 rows straight for length of the leg. Take 2 needles and take up all the slip stitches on i, and all the knitted stitches on the other, when you will find the knitting becomes open. Cast off leaving it open, turn the sock inside out (as the side you work it is the wrong side of sock). N.B. — Every row from 1st to last must be knitted the same, viz., slip i, knit i along the whole row; you soon see how it comes double when you have knitted a few rows. For a smaller sized sock, cast on 60 stitches. Work 1 2 rows for the toe, take 2 together for the front, until you have 32 stitches left tor the leg, 22 rows for length of leg, cast off. Fasten the ribbon at back ot ankle and each side of front to tie it on with. These are very simple to make, and beautifully soft and warm. Answers to Correspondents. In conypliamce with the request of nvmerous subscribers, we hmie decided to open a colwtnn in which we mil answer amy queries relating to Pa/ncy Worn. Such queries should be written clearly on one side of the pa/per only, and headed " Wokk-Basket," and should reach its not later tha/n the Uth of the month to ensure repoy in next issue, A nom de plume must be affixed to each. A Sufferer. — We will send you a specimen of the new cretonne work for IS., which you could use for a mat centre. For your bedroom to have the appearance of a sitting room also, you require a small table covered with a serge cloth bordered with cretonne appliqued on, a few low chairs covered in cretonne, a large jar filled with tall pampas grass on a milking stool in one corner. You can get the latter very cheap, and paint it with Aspinall's'enamel, or even a box so treated is effective. Have a writing table with a drawer and some brackets with china on. Drape the bed wilh art muslin, it is very cheap and really wears well, tying back the curtains with either serge ribbon, very wide, for 6|d. per yard, and have a pretty bed cover. Tawny yellow muslin tied back with ruby would be effective. If you let us know the colour of your paper and carpet we could better advise. Why not line your bed pockets with ruby satin ? Panel your door with embossed Japanese paper. If you write, enclosing stamped envelope, we will give you every attention. Are pleased you have found our articles of use. A Subscriber. — The increasings and decreasings in the coat pattern given in April issue should occur at the end of each row, not at beginning and end, as you only increase or decrease i stitch in each row. Towel. — The cotton named is called Maltese thread, and any fancy work shop should keep it. Try Messrs. Barclay & Crawford in your town. Damon. — We can send you Walker's Bell Gauge for 7 stamps. In- structions for using it are sent out with each. There are holes in the centre through which the needle is passed, the middle of same being the size. All round the edge are holes and slits. These latter are to test the size, the hole being merely made to release the needles. Jem. — Any open border would be suitable for a shawl in rice-stitch (we presume you mean crochet). The Pineapple scallop in No. 19, or the border to Shetland shawl in No. 18 would be appropriate. J. M. B. — We will bear your request for gent's drawers and child's collar in Gordon braid in mind, and endeavour to publish the directions shortly. We have published two very pretty collars for ladies made with Gordon braid. Bristol. — If you will send a stamped envelope we will send you clearer directions. Marigold. — The leaf edging should be as you have corrected it. The error in the edging below it occurs in the 8th row, which should read knit 4 instead of 3. The shawl pattern is correct. It is merely groups of treble, but the engraving was taken quite from the edge. The commence- ment would have rather a different appearance. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. Crochet. JACKET FOR LADIES. This pattern is ex- tremely simple, and by a little ingenuity, a jacket to fit any figure can be formed from the directions. It will be found a most comfort- able wrap, and is par- ticularly suitable for wearing under dolman mantles, which rheu- matic people are often unable to wear on ac- count of the want of warmth about the arms and shoulders. It is also suitable for a house ' jacket, and is very be- coming. 7 ozs. of black Andalusian wool and I skein of crimson or any pretty bright colour for the border will be re quired, also I dozen smooth, flat, small black buttons, and a pretty fine bone crochet needle. With the black wool work a chain of 152 stitches. 1st row — turn, miss 2, and v;ork i treble into each chain stitch. When you come to the beginning of your chain, put the needle through the ist stitch, then form your work into a loop, having the trebles outside, and put your needle through the opposite side of the chain stitch into which you worked the 65th treble stitch, counting from the beginning of your treble row. Complete the treble stitch thus commenced, and work trebles all along the chain stitches into which the ist 64 trebles are worked. The loop forms the armhole. Throughout the jacket, always catch up only the back half of the stitches in the preced- ing row, and at the end of each row work 2 chain when turning. 2nd row — treble into each stitch ; into the 107th stitch, which will come on the centre of the shoulder, work 3 trebles. Mark this stitch with a white thread, as all the increasings on the shoulder should come directly over the centre stitch of the 3 trebles you have just worked. Increase in the same way on the shoulder every 2nd row. 3rd row — work a gore as follows : 2 chain, turn, 12 trebles, i double, i single, turn, i chain, i single, i double, 12 trebles, 2 chain, turn, 14 trebles, * put the needle through the chain stitch at the end of the short row and through next treble of the 2nd row. Complete the treble stitch and work 4 more trebles, I double, I single, i chain, turn, i single, i double, 19 trebles, 3 chain, turn, 21 trebles ; repeat from * working 26 trebles instead of 19; after the next turn, 2 chain, turn and work trebles all the gore. At the end of the gore put the needle through the chain stitch and next treble of 2nd row, complete this stitch, and work trebles all along. You will now be at the edge of the basque of the jacket. Work another gore the same as the last. Turn and work 4th row same as 2nd row. Continue to work backwards and forwards, re- membering to increase on the shoulder as directed till you have 16 rows ot trebles on the shoulder. Try on this piece of your work and see if it is sufficiently deep on the shoulders, it not, work 2 more rows. For back : turn, work a gore. 1st row — trebles all along the gore, finishing the point as before, trebles to within 2 stitches of the centre of the shoulder. 2nd row — trebles to end. Repeat these 2 rows, leaving off within i stitch of the neck each time, till you have about 6 rows. Try on and see if the work now reaches to the centre of the back of your dress. If not, continue to work backwards and forwards till it does. Fasten off. A very pretty effect is produced by working the fronts in a colour. This simulates a waistcoat and adds greatly to the style of the jacket. For front. Commence on the 12th stitch, from the shoulder and work trebles about half way down the front, or for about 54 stitches, 1 double, I single, i chain, turn, i single, i double, trebles to within 3 stitches of the top, turn, 3 single, i double, trebles all along, turn, trebles all along to neck, turn and work 12 single stitches, i double trebles to end, turn and work trebles to neck. If the front does not reach to the centre of the dress in front, work a few more rows. If the figure is very stout in the bust a second dart could be made. Fasten off. Work the other front to correspond. For the sleeve. Commence under the arm where you joined the loop which formed the armhole. Work trebles all round. You should have 90 stitches; * turn, 2 chain, miss i, trebles to end, taking the last 2 stitches together and crocheting them as one. Repeat from *till you have only 70 stitches in the row. If a very tight sleeve is desired, you should decrease for a few rows more. Work about 24 rows with- out decreasing, which should bring the sleeve well over the elbow. In the succeeding rows, decrease I stitch at the beginning of each row till the sleeve is the desired length. About 15 rows will bring it quite down to the wrist. Fasten off. Work a second sleeve to correspond. Sew them up, taking care to join the rows evenly. Collar. Commence in front and work 2 trebles into each row of the front, i treble into each stitch of the shoulder, 2 trebles into each row of the back, i treble into each stitch of the 2nd shoulder, and 2 trebles into each row of the 2nd front,* 2 chain, I treble into each stitch of last row ; repeat from *. If a very deep collar is desired, repeat the last row once or twice more. Border. With the coloured wool, work a row of double stitches all round the jacket. When working up the right front, make a buttonhole after every 8th stitch as follows : 2 chain, miss 2, double into next stitch ; next row, i double, * miss 2, 3 trebles into next stitch, 3 chain, i double into ist stitch of the chain, 2 trebles into the same stitch into which you worked the last 2 trebles, miss 2, i double into the next stitch ; repeat from * all along. When working round the corners, miss only i stitch instead of 2 to make the edge lie quite flat. Now sew a button opposite each buttonhole along the first row of the border, and your jacket is complete. PETTICOAT FOR CHILD. I TO 2 Years. For this pretty and simple pat- tern you will re- quire 3 ounces of drab or fawn best Scotch fingering wool, 2 ounces of cerise, and 2 bone crochet hooks, Nos. 9 and 11. Walker's Bell Gauge. Com- mence at the bodice, which is worked in ribbed crochet ; use the light wool and finest hook. For one side of back work yj chain, turn, and work 36 double crochet stitches along the foundation chain. 2nd row — turn, and work 36 double crochet, always taking the back part of stitch to form ribs. Continue to work in this way for 22 rows, or 11 ribs ; this finishes one side of the back. 23rd row — for shoulder, work 8 stitches in same way, backwards and forwards, for 6 rows or 3 ribs. Now work 16 stitches (on the same row as you began shoulder, only counting from the bottom, leaving the other 12 stitches unworked for arm- hole), for 8 rows, or 4 ribs. Then take up the S stitches on shoulder and work 12 chain ; take up the 16 stitches under arm, when you will have 36 stitches as for the back. This is the front, which you now work backwards and forwards for 44 rows, or 22 ribs. Work 8 stitches again for the other shoulder, for 6 rows or 3 ribs, and 16 stitches for under the arm (leaving i2' between unworked for arm- hole) for 8 rows, or 4 ribs. Now take up the 8 stitches for shoulder, work 12 chain to make up the same number, viz., 36 stitches, of course taking up the 16 stitches under arm. Work these in same way for 22 rows, or 11 ribs. For edge round arm- holes work a row of treble all round with cerise wool. 2nd row— 4 chain, picot bacic into the ist chain, i single into i hole, j double crochet stitch into next ; that is to say, between each treble stitch. Repeat all round both armholes, and do the neck in same way. Make a cord and tassels of both wools, long enough to run in neck and tie at the back. This finishes the bodice. 229 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. For petticoat, use the coarsest hook, and cerise wool. Work a row of I treble between each rib of bodice to run a second cord and tassels in to tie at the waist. With light wool work the 2nd row, 7 chain, i treble, into ist hole ; i treble, i chain, I treble, into every hole all round. No chain between each hole. 3rd row — turn and repeat. 4th. row — same. 5th row — same. 6th row — same, but join this and every row to end of petticoat. 7th row— same, with cerise wool. 8th row — same, in light wool. 9th row^ same, in cerise wool. 10th row — same, light wool. 11th row — same, cerise wool, but increase in 4 places round by working a I treble, i chain, i treble, i chain, i treble into a hole. 12th row — in light wool, work i treble, i chain, i treble, into every hole, remembering the increasing ; that is, work a pattern into each hole made by the increasing. Now work 5 rows in light just the same. 18th row — with cerise wool work a scalloped edge of 4 or 5 long treble into i hole, i double crochet stitch into the next. Repeat in this way all round, when the petticoat will be finished. If the skirt is not long enough, more rows and increasing can easily be added. QUILT FOR BASSINETTE OR COT. This useful as well as pretty article is very easily made, and well repays the worker for the time spent in working it. Our model was made in blue and white, but any colour can be selected instead of blue if preferred, and the coverlet made any size by simply making the stripes longer and more of them. Materials required : — 6 ozs. of blue and 8 of the best quality white fleecy wool, a bone crochet hook. No. 5, by H. Walker's Bell Gauge, and a piece of fine twilled flannel the size of the coverlet when finished. Our model measured 29 inches in length by 23 inches in width, not including the fringe. For the first stripe, commence with the white wool, make a chain of 10 stitches, and work in common tricot stitch, thus, * put the hook through the next chain, and draw the wool through, keep the loop thus made on the needle, and repeat from * till all the chain stitches are worked into, then draw the wool through I loop, and then * through 2, and repeat from * till all are worked oft. When working 2nd tricot row, draw the wool through the diagonal loop of last row instead of the chain, and finish the row as 1st row was worked ; repeat from 2nd row till a square is worked about 8 rows, then join on the blue wool, and work another square. Continue in the same way until there are 5 white and 4 blue squares worked, fasten off the wool, and work 3 more stripes exactly the same. Now work 3 stripes in the same way, only commencing and ending the stripe with blue instead of white. When the seven stripes are finished, crochet or sew them together on the wrong side of the work, taking care to keep the squares in their proper places alternately blue and white. Line with the flannel, and if necessary stitch it here and there to make it lie quite flat. Knit in a fringe made of white wool all round, cut the wool rather longer than twice the length of your finger, say 10 inches, take 2 lengths, double them, and loop them in with the crochet hook. 230 JACKET FOR INFANT. Materials required :— 2J ozs. of white Andalusian wool and ^ oz. of blue. A tricot hook. This jacket is worked in a variation of tricot stitch in such a way that it appears smooth on the right side and ribbed on the wrong. Make a chain of 50 stitches with white wool, and work i row in tricot stitch, after this row always pick up the stitches in the following way: take the usual loop for tricot, also the loop behind the next usual one for tricot, and pull the wool through both ; increase at the end of every row till you have 60 stitches, then decrease at the end of every row to 50 stitches ; next row work 35 stitches only, leaving the other 1 5 for the armhole ; work 3 rows of 35 stitches, then make 15 chain, and work the whole 50. Increase at the end of every row to 60 stitches, and work 22 rows plain for the back. Decrease at the end of every row to 50 stitches, leave 15 stitches as before for the armhole, and work 3 rows of 35 stitches; make 15 chain and work 50 stitches, increase at the end of every row to 60, and decrease at the end of every row to Jo, which completes the jacket ; sew the shoulders together. For the sleeve, make 41 chain, and work 40 rows, and sew the sleeve up. The border is worked in double crochet edged with a scallop. With white work a row of double crochet all round the jacket, putting I into each stitch of the foundation ; work 3 rounds in blue, always taking the back loops, and putting 2 into I at the corners. With white, make i double into i stitch of the last row, miss I, 5 treble into the next, miss i, and repeat all round. Work a similar border to the sleeves, I row white, 3 rows blue, and the scallop in white. Add cord and tassels in blue run in the neck and sleeves. TINSEL BRAID FOR TRIMMING. Very effective trimming may be made from coarse sewing cotton, black and white coloured crewel silk and wool, silver tinsel or threads of beads or chenille. Pretty combinations with the tinsel are made of white or black silk; orange and white; orange, black and white, gas green, and white wool and orange silk; amber, black and white wool ; scarlet and white, scarlet and black, blue and white. Black and white cotton goes also very well with the silver, and a serviceable trimming is made from scarlet, blue, black, white, gas green and amber wool. Take from 4 to 8 strands (according to width of braid required), tie all the ends together, and with a small bone crochet hook make a loop, then divide the strands into 2 parts, taking care to have the colours equal on either side, and divide the bright strands equally between the 2, then proceed to work the braid by making i crochet chain stitch alternately with each division, pf threads, keeping the bright strands well to the top of the braid. These directions will make wide braids; narrow ones should have only about half as many threads in them of each kind, and are simply a crochet chain worked evenly, and in the same way as a crochet foundation chain, the only difference being in the fact that the braid is made of many threads, and the ordinary foundation chain has only one. This braid is very easy to make, and the small variety is very effective for braiding in patterns. THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. THE BEACONSFIELD BASKET. Materials required : i^ balls dark brown macram6 thread, ij yards of ribbon a shade lighter than thread, bunch of primroses, and bone crochet hook. No. 8, Bell Gauge. Commence with i8 chain, turn, double crochet along and round this chain, which forms bottom of basket, work into back single stitch, leaving the front stitch to form a line; increase each end by working 2 double crochet into I stitch, there should be S increasings each end. Repeat thus for 2 more rounds. 4th. round — increase at each end 4 times. You will now have 56 stitches round. After this you do not increase. Continue working round in double crochet (leaving always front stitch and working into back stitch only) for 13 more rounds. Then begin pattern. Thread over hook, miss 3 stitches, and work * 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into same hole, miss 3, repeat from *. You will have 14 picots round. 2nd round — * thread over hook, work into centre of 1st picot, 2 treble, 2 long treble, 2 treble, i double between the picot you have just worked and the next picot of previous row, repeat from *. 3rd round — * I double into centre of ist picot, thread over hook and work into back of double in previous row, 2 treble, 2 long treble, 2 treble, repeat from *. 4tli round — * i double into ist picot, thread over hook, 4 treble into back of double stitch, repeatfrom*. 5th round—* thread over hook, 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into centre of ist picot, I double into double, and repeat from *. 6th round — now work i single into each back stitch all round, working handles as you go along; when you have worked one side as far as centre of 3rd picot from end, work 18 chain, pass it backward, missing 2 whole picots and uniting it into centre of piqot beyond, drawing it through with a single stitch, double crochet back along the 18 chain; go on working single crochet untill you come to same place on other side, when work second handle in same manner ; finish the few more single crochet and fasten off neatly, drawing thread inside. Run ribbon through holes formed by ist row of picots, fasten primroses in front, and tie bunch carelessly with ribbon. CRIMEA MITTEN. Fingering wool and, crochet hook to work it firmly. Now take a kid glove of the person for whom you are going to make the mit- ten, lay it flat on a table over a piece of plain paper. Mark round the glove on the paper the exact size, taking your pencil right round the fingers of the glove, but not between them, of course ; mark the thumb carefully the right size and position. Now take your wool and the hook and make a chain long enough to reach round the pattern just under where the thumb begins. Now work in single crochet, increasing as often as necessary by making a tight chain between the stitches on each side of the thumb until you have the thumb increased sufficiently. Leave the thumb and then work round and round until it is time to decrease at the top of the fingers; you can decrease ever so often just as your paper pattern shows by taking 2 stitches in one. Work the thumb in the same way. For the wrist, pick up the stitches on 3 needles, and knit 2 plain, 1 purl round and round until the wrist is long enough; of course you must have your stitches divide by 3. If you prefer, have an even number of stitches, and knit i plain, i purl loundand round till long enough. If you cannot knit, try and learn, or, failing the convenience of that, work round and round in single crochet not too tightly, so that the wrist will allow of the hand going through. Finish with a tiny scallop along the edge of the wrist. Double crochet can be used for above, but it is not so close. BUTTERFLY PATTERN. This is a very simple pattern, and looks extremely well in either wool or cotton. The piece for pattern is worked in cardinal and amber single berlin wool joined together with olive green. For an ordinary good sized antimacassar you will require i of a lb. of each colour lor stripes and i oz. of green to join, bone crochet hook, No. 9, Walker's Bell Gauge. Work 6 chain, unite into a ring, and into it work 3 treble, 3 chiin, 3 treble, 3 chain, i double crochet, turn and work the same 3 treble, 3 chain, 3 treble, 3 chain, i double crochet into the hole made by the last 3 chain; this forms a second point. You work a stripe in the same way, taking care you have the same number of points each side, or it will not join right. When you have worked as many stripes as you require, join them with the olive green. Begin at the ist point you commence stripe with, fasten on wool and work 3 chain, i double crochet into ist point of the 2nd stripe, 3 chain, I double crochet into the 2nd point of the ist stripe, 3 chain, i double crochet into the 2nd point of 2nd stripe. Continue to join in this way to end, first one stripe then the other. Draw in the ends of wool and knot 8 strands of wool into each point at the end of stripes, 01 make a fancy tassel if liked better, although the fringe looks like small tassels. CAPE FOR LADIES QUICKLY MADE. This is a very simple stitch, and quickly done. It is iri open trebles worked round, so that when spread open at first sight it is mis- taken for a circular cover, the centre being composed of 22 rounds arranged in 9 sections, and surrounded by a deep border, also con- sisting of 22 rounds. Make 5 chain and close in a ring by a slip stitch, and work the 22 rounds in trebles spirally, and with 9 in- creasings in each, so that in the lastcircle there will be 19S trebles Ist row— 4 chain for the 1st treble and space, then take through the ring, 8 more trebles, each divided by i chain. 2nd ro — I treble. I chain, and i treble through the ist hole, then i cha, repeat 8 times. 3rd row — i treble, i chain, i treble through the ist hole, I chain, I treble into the 2nd, and repeat alternately. 4th row— i treble, i chain and i treble into ist hole, i treble only into the 2nd and ^rd holes ; repeat. Continue to increase in this way to the end 231 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET, of the 22 rounds, working 2 trebles into each of the 9 divisions or points below which mark the increasings, and making a single treble through every intervening hole, the number of which in- creases at each spiral till there are 20 trebles in each section. Border. Without breaking the wool, finish with a double crochet through one of the points and make a round of scallops, with 7 chain and double crochet taken through every alternate hole. 2nd row — resume the trebles, slipstitch down to the 4th chain of the ist scallop. For three rounds work i treble, i chain and i treble into every hole below with one dividing chain. In a second row or group, work 3 rounds similar to the above, only with 2 dividing chain instead of i. Now a set of 4 rounds worked thus : I treble, 2 chain, I treble, with 2 chain between, repeat. Then 4 rounds more, with 2 trebles, 2 chain, and 2 trebles, into every point below, with 2 chain between. 5 rounds form the last group, 3 treble, 2 chain, and 3 trebles into every point, with 2 dividing chain. This brings us to the 21st round made thus : 3 trebles, 3 chain, 3 trebles in the same hole, 2 dividing chain ; repeat. 2Snd round or edge scallop — I double crochet above the 2 chain, 2 chain, g trebles through the 3 chain, 2 chain ; repeat. The cape, completed, is folded in half and fastened with a ribbon bow. NIGHTDRESS BAG. This handsome bag is very simply made, and will take 9 skeins of crochet cotton No. 8, and a steel hook No. 4, also | of a yard of sateen, pale blue or pink. Make a chain of 184. 1st row— i treble into the 4th stitch from needle, i treble into every chain stitch to end of row. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, i treble into the 1st treble, i treble into each of the next 2 stitches, * 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of last row, I treble into the 3rd ; repeat from * till within 3 stitches of the end, put i treble into each of these, there should be 59 square holes in this row. 3rd row — turn with 3 chain, i treble into each of the first 3 stitches, make 5 holes over the first 5 of last row, * 6 treble into the next, make a knob by tak- ing out your needle, and inserting it in the ist of the 6 treble, put it back again in the loop just left, and draw cotton through both at once, 7 holes, and repeat from * to end of row. 4th. row — 3 consecutive treble, 4 holes, * a knob, i hole, a knob, 5 holes, and repeat from *. 5th. row — 3 consecutive treble, * 3 holes, a knob, I hole, a knob, i hole, a knob ; repeat from *. 6th. row — 3 consecutive treble, 2 holes, * a knob, I hole ; repeat from *, end row with 2 holes. 7th. row— like the 5th. 8th row — like the 4th. 9th row — like the 3rd. 10th and 11th rows — like the 2nd, and repeat from 3rd row till you have a piece about 14 patterns long. Now work I row like the 2nd row, and I like the ist to finish. To make up the bag double up about 5 patterns, and either fasten together with double crochet worked into both down each side, and across the bottom, or sew it up. Border. Commence at right hand corner of flap, holding the inside of bag towards you. 1st row — make * 8 chain, miss 3 rows of the sides, i double into the 4th, 5 chain, double into the same hole ; repeat all round. In working across top and bottom, you miss 6 stitches instead of the rows, do not break off, but work round and round. 2nd row — * I double, 5 chain, I double into the loop of 5 chain in last row, 7 chain, i double into the same hole, 5 chain, i double into the same, 8 chain, and repeat Irom * all round. Work 5 or 6 more rows like the 2nd, being sure to have a leaf at the point of each comer. IVIake a bag of sateen the same size as your piece of work, and slip in ; then neatly run the edges together. 232 BIB FOR INFANT. This little bib washes beautiiully, and is so easy to make, that it could be worked in a short time, thus rendering this part of a baby's outfit very inexpensive, i oz. of Strutt's knitting cotton. No. 10, will be required for one, steel hook. No. 19. Make a chain of 47. 1st row — turn with 3 chain, put I treble in every chain of the foun- dation, into the centre stitch work 3 treble, making in all 49 treble. 2nd row — turn with 3 chain, i treble into every treble, picking up back loop till you get to the centre, in which work 3. Repeat the 2nd row 12 times more and fasten off. Now make another piece exactly like the first. Place them together, and crochet a row of double all round. For the edge work 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into 1 double, miss 2 and repeat all round. 2nd row — 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble into every 2 chain of last row. Now take a yard of narrow ribbon and divide it into two. Sew it on each side in a little fancy bow to tie the bib on. KNICKERBOCKER TRIMMING. This pretty edging is worked in round pieces, which are united at the sides when being worked. An edge is afterwards added along the top, which forms it into a frill. This edge may be worked round and round or in rows, according to whether the knickerbockers are wished open or closed. Ten stars will make a frill sufficiently wide for ordinary sized drawers. The cotton used is white No. 30. It is worked with a fine steel crochet hook. No. 20, Walker's Bell Gauge. To commence, work 12 chain stitches, work i single stitch into the 1st of the 12 chain stitches, thus forming a ring. *Work 5 chain, I single into the 3rd of the 5 chain, 2 chain, i treble into the ring. Repeat from * 7 times more. *8 chain, i treble into the 1st of the 2 chain of last round. Repeat from * 7 times more, ending the round with a single stitch instead of a treble stitch. 2 chain, * work 8 treble stitches over the 8 chain of last round. Repeat from * 7 times more. * Work 3 double stitches into the top of 1st 3 trebles of last round, 8 chain. Repeat from *, working the THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. next 3 double stitches into the top of the next 3 treble stitches of last round all round. All the stars are worked in the same way with the exception of the last round, which is to be worked as follows in order to join the stars together. *Work 3 double stitches into the top of the ist 3 treble stitches of last round, 4 chain, i single into loop on last row of last star ; 4 chain. Repeat from * 3 times more ; finish the round as in the ist star. 1st row (along top of star) — ** I treble into the ist loop above those by which 2 stars are united, 6 chain, miss i loop, i double into next loop, * 3 chain, i double into the next loop. Repeat from * twice more. 6 chain, miss I loop, I treble into the ne.xt loop. Repeat from ** all along. 2nd row — * i treble, 2 chain, miss 2, repeat from *. 3rd row — 2 double between each treble of last row. Repeat the last 2 rows once more and the edging is completed. A pretty child's collar can easily be constructed from this design by working a sufficient number of stars, and altering the last 4 rows as follows: — 2nd row — * i treble, i chain, miss 2. Repeat from *. 3rd row — i double between each treble of last row. Repeat the last 2 rows once more. LACE. This pattern is very effective, though simple and easily worked. Our model was crocheted in Loom thread. No. 3i, which can be had from A. E. K., Box 10, Post Office, Ballymena, and is suitable for dress trimmings, &c. The pattern worked in Messrs. Walter Evans & Co.'s crochet cotton, No. 40, or finer, will make a hand- some trimming for a pocket handkerchief border ; a very fine steel crochet hook will be required, No. 5 of H. Walker's make. Make a chain the length required, and for the 1st row — work i double stitch into each chain stitch, fasten off the cotton. 2nd row — * i treble in the first stitch of the ist row, I chain, miss I stitch ; repeat from * to end of the row. Fasten off the cotton. 3rd row — i long treble (cotton twice round the needle) in the third stitch of the 2nd row, * 3 purls (the purls are made thus, 5 chain, i double in the first stitch of the 5 chain), i long treble in the same stitch the last long treble was worked in, i purl, miss 3 stitches, 3 double, I in each of the 3 next stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, i long treble in the next stitch ; repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off the cotton. 4tli row — 3 double in the loop of the 2nd purl of the 3rd row, * I purl, I long treble in the 2nd of the next 3 doubles of the 3rd row, taking up both the loops of the stitch, 3 purls, i long treble in the same stitch the last long treble was worked into, I purl, miss the next 2 purls, 3 doubles into the loop of the next purl; repeat from * to end of the row. Fasten off the cotton. 5tli row — * i long treble into the 2nd double of the ist 3 double of the 4th row, working into both loops of the stitch, 3 purls, I long treble mto the same stitch as the last long treble was worked into, l purl, miss 2 purls, 3 doubles into the loop of the next purl, i purl ; repeat from *, working the i long treble into the 2nd of the next 3 double instead of into the ist 3 double, to the end of the row. Fasten off the cotton. Repeat the 4th and 5th rows alternately until the lace is the depth required. Our model had 13 rows altogether. NOTICE. A HANDSOME CLOTH GILT CASE, Also TITLE AND CONTENTS, May now be liad for binding Volumes I. and II. of the Fancy Work-Basket. irice la. 3d. each, po8t free. R. S. Cartwrigbt, S, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, or by order of all Newsatfents. m 'w^. •u w LACE BORDER. This lace can be worked in any no. of cotton suitable to the use it is required for, in tine cotton it is pretty for underclothing. Worked short way, make chain of 33 stitches. 1st row — i treble or long into the ist stitch, 2 chain, miss 2, * i long into the 3rd, i chain, miss I, I long into the next, i chain, miss i, i long into each of the next 4 stitches, 6 chain, miss 3, i double into the 4th, 6 chain, miss 3, I long into each of the 4 next stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, i long into 3rd, i chain, miss I, I long into the next, 2 chain, miss 2, I long into next, 5 chain, turn the work. 2nd row — i long on long, I chain, i long on long, 2 chain, miss 2, i long into each of the next 8 stitches, 5 chain, miss 5, i long into each of the next 8 stitches, I chain, miss i, i long on long, 2 chain, i long on next long, 2 chain, I long on next long, 5 chain, and turn the work. 3rd row— I long on 1st long, I chain, miss i, i long on long, i chain, miss i, i long into each of the 4 next, 6 chain, miss 6, i double into the centre of the 5 chain of previous row, 6 chain, miss 5, 4 long into 4 next stitches, 2 chain, miss 2, I long on long, i chain, miss i, i long into next long, 2 chain, miss 2, l long on next long, j chain, turn the work. 4tli row — i long into the 1st long, i chain, miss i, I long on long, 2 chain, miss 2, I long on each of the ne.xt 2 long, 4 chain, I double into the 4th of 6 chain, 5 chain, i double into the 4th of the next 6 chain, 4 chain, miss 3 chain and 2 long, I long on each of the 2 next long, i chain, miss i, i long into the next, i chain, miss 1, I long on long, 2 chain, miss 2, i long on long, 5 chain, turn the work. Repeat from the ist row for the length required, the 5 chain to turn stand in place of i treble into ist stitch, 2 chain, begin at the * with i long on long. For the edge : — 1st row — work 4 double under each 5 chain, and 3 under each treble at the edge of the foundation. 2nd row — i long into each stitch. 3rd row — 1 long into a stitch, 5 chain, miss 5, i long into the 6th stitch, 7 chain, miss 5 stitches, and repeat. 4th row — 2 long with 2 chain between into centre stitch of the 5 chain, 4 chain, 5 long into the 5 centre stitches of the 7 chain, 4 chain, repeat from the beginning of row. 5th row — 2 long separated by 2 chain under the 2 chain of previous row, 3 chain, now work 7 long, i before and ending i beyond the 5 long of last row, 3 chain, repeat. 6th. row — exactly like the 5th row. 7th row — 2 long with 2 chain between, 4 chain, 5 long on centre 5 of the 7 long, 4 chain, repeat. 8th. row — 2 long with 2 chain between under the 2 chain, 4 chain, 3 long on centre of 5 long, being i less at each end, 4 chain, and repeat. 9tli row — 2 long with 2 chain between under the 2 chain, 5 chain, I long on centre of 3 long, 5 chain, repeat. lOth row— 3 long and 3 chain, 3 long, all under the 2 chain, 5 chain, double on top of the i long, 5 chain and repeat. EDGING. Work a chain the length of edging required. Turn and work I treble, * 2 chain, miss 2, i treble into next stitch; repeat from * all along. Turn, 4 chain, miss i treble, * i treble into ne.vt 2 chain, 4 chain, i treble into same 2 chain, 4 chain, miss 2 trebles, l double into next 2 chain; 4 chain, miss 2 trebles, and repeat from * all along, finishing the row with 4 chain and I double. 4th. row — 235 THE FANCY WORK-BASKET. t 8 chain, take out your needle, bend the 8 chain towards the right hand and catch into the next but one 4 chain, * i chain, 8 doubles into the 8 chain, 8 chain, take out the needle, and bend the chain towards the right hand, catch into the same 4 chain, and repeat from * 3 times more, i chain, 8 doubles into the 8 chain, 4 chain, take out the needle, and catch into the next double stitch to the right ; repeat from f all along, finishing the row with 4 chain caught into a double stitch. 5th row — turn, t 3 double into 4 chain, * I double, 3 treble, and i double into next chain loop ; repeat from * 3 times more, 3 doubles into next chain loop ; repeat trom * all along. Fasten off. Along the top or foundation chain work 3 double between each treble. Fasten off. This edging when worked with No. 16 or 20 Walter Evans & Co.'s crochet cotton makes a nice trimming for underlinen. A fine steel needle should be used so that the work will be firm. TRIMMING FOR COTTON DRESS. Worked in tan coloured cotton, with steel hook, or can be worked in white crochet cotton for underlinen. Make 20 chain. 1st row — put I treble into the 7th chain from the hook, make 2 chain, miss 2, put I treble into the next, make 5 chain, miss 5, put i treble into the next, make 2 chain, miss 2, put i treble into the next, make 5 chain, and put i treble into the same chain as the last treble. 2nd row— turn, make 2 chain, put 6 treble into the space of 5 chain, make 2 chain, put i treble into the next space, make 2 chain, put 6 treble into the next space, make 2 chain, put i treble into the next space, 2 chain, put I treble into the next space. 3rd row — turn, make 5 chain, put I treble into the ist space, make 2 chain, put I treble into the next space, make 5 chain, put I treble into the next space, make 2 chain, put i treble into the next space, make 5 chain put I treble into the same space. 4th. row — turn, make 2 chain, put 6 treble into the next space of 5 chain, make 2 chain, put i treble into the next space, make 2 chain, put 6 treble into the next space, make 2 chain, put i treble into the next space, make 2 chain put I treble into the next space, and repeat from *. When the length required is completed work a row of double crochet along the top edge STRIPE FOR ANTIMACASSAR. v-%',^'t f^ i^v>-^ ^^x^u iFZ chain, turn. 2nd row— 4 treble, 4 chain, 236 Coats' crochet cot- ton. No. 18, steel needle, 4J. This pat- tern is worked short way. Make a chain of 29 stitches. 1st row- — 2 treble into each of the 2 first chain, 4 chain, 2 treble into each of the next 2 chain, i treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 4 chain, miss 4 chain stitches, 2 treble into each of the 2 following chain, 4 chain and 2 treble into each of the 2 next chain stitches, i treble into each of the next 4 stitches, 4 chain, miss 4 chain, 2 treble into each of the 2 next stitches, 4 chain, 2 treble into each of the 2 next stitches, 7 and 4 treble, all under the 1st 4 chain, 4 treble under the next 4 chain, 4 chain, 4 treble, 4 chain, 4 treble, all under next 4 chain, 4 treble under the next 4 chain, 4 chain, 4 treble, 4 chain, 4 treble under the next 4 chain, 7 chain, and turn. The 2nd row is repeated all through the required length ; make i double crochet into each stitch down the edge of stripe. These are pretty for chair backs, alternate with Turkey red embroidered stripe, and worked in fine cotton form pretty insertion for uiT^crcIothinf;. EDGING. Make a chain of 6, unite into a ring, turn with 5 chain, i treble, I chain, I treble, 2 chain, i treble, i chain, i treble all into the ring, * 5 chain to turn, i treble into the centre hole of last picot, I chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, I treble, i chain, i treble into the same hole ; repeat from * 5 times more. 1st row of pattern — i treble into the 6th loop of 5 chain you turned with (it lies on your left quite near you), * I chain, i treble into same, repeat from * 7 times more. 2nd row — turn, 3 double crochet between every treble of last row. 3rd row — turn with i chain, I double into every double of last row, picking up the back loop, make a double into the loop of 5 chain that lies nearest you, i.e., the 4th you made. 4th row — i double into every double, still working into back loop, at the end of this row work another picot into heading, work back with another p.cot to the side where your edging is. 5th row — double crochet into every stitch, double into next loop of 5 chain, i.e., the 2nd you made. 6th row — 4 chain, miss i double, i double into next, repeat 12 times more, 2 chain, make another picot in heading, picot back, 2 chain. 7th row — -2 double into ist hole, 4 chain, 2 double into every hole, catch down the end of row with a double into heading. 8th row — * 6 chain, single into 4th from needle, 2 chain, i double into Ist hole, repeat from * into every hole ; the last i into the 2 chain that connected the last picot with the edging. Now repeat from * till you have the length required. For the heading, 2 chain, 3 treble into every loop of 5 chain. EDGING. * 7 chain, single into 4th stitch of chain ; repeat from * till you have the length of edge required. Fasten off. 2nd row — commence on ist stitch, working on the side of the chain on which the dots lie. 5 chain, miss a dot and work i double into the centre chain stitch between the ist and 2nd dots, 5 chain, miss a dot, double between the 2nd and 3rd dots, continue in this way all along. Fasten off. 3rd row — commence on ist 5 chain of last row, * 3 chain, double into next 5 chain ; repeat from * all along. Fasten off. 4th row — work 4 doubles into each 3 chain of last row. Fasten off. 6th row — commence on ist row and work 1 double into each chain stitch along the side opposite to the dots. Fasten off. 6th row — commence on ist stitch of 5th row, * 3 chain, miss 2, work I double into next stitch, 6 chain, miss, 5 double into next stitch ; repeat from * all along. Fasten off. 7th row — commence on 3 chain at beginning of last row, and work 2 double into it, * I double into 6 chain, 5 chain and i double 6 times into the 6 chain, 2 double into next 3 chain ; repeat from * all along. Fasten off. No. 20, Walter Evans & Co.'s crochet cotton and a very fine steel needle will make a nice trimming for underlinen. r-mmmi STERLiriG * FRANCINE CLARK ART INSTITUTE NK9100 L4 v,l-2 slack Leach, Ciara/Mri Lear,h s fane/ work bas 3 1962 00079 03^6 lONES S KBINOER, I i STATIONER HERBERT. /