r he— cuwctie STT1UJ N G AND FRANCINE C1A1UC ART INSTITUTE L1BRART jBooki on SS done for this temporary invasion upon occupations strictly sedentary, since new ideas and new ener! gies will be the result. 3. In many departments of Fancy Needlework raht XT S A 1 Pr ° gr f S ° f y° Ur Work > i4 is desi- rable that you keep that portion still untouched covered with t.ssue paper, or it will otherwise have a soiled appearance. There is nothing which more 5. Cut your wools into certain lengths, and put them into elonga.ed papers, or you may wind them on a reel : although I do not recommend this latS plan, for in my own experience I have always found the vnndmg ^deteriorates the texture. Eachpapei betm b b e ere a d belled ^ * *?**" ^ ° r ^ 6 A knowledge of Drawing and Painting is oi great advantage, by its immediate bearing on the aim of this Art : although many persons who have AND APPLIQUE. 55 scarcely any acquaintance with either, are extreme- ly clever with their needle. But in this case the exception proves the rule. 7. Plaid patterns may be worked from plaid rib- bons ; and in so doing the choice of elegant mate- riel will be as attainable as it is multifarious. 8. The repositories at which coloured patterns may be obtained are very numerous. It was in 1805 that a publisher in Berlin put forth the first Coloured Design on ruled paper. Madame Wit- tich followed in the same path in 18 10 ; and now the number of persons engaged in this business is unaccountable. No fewer than 22,000 Designs have been published up to the present day. Eng- land is probably by far the largest consumer ; and the number of hands employed in colouring only is sup- posed to amount to 2,500. The Yarn, though dyed in Berlin, is manufactured at Gotha. Many have declared that the yarns manufactured in this coun- try are quite equal, if not superior, to those of Go- tha ; but then the art of dyeing them is by no means equally understood by us. This may appear as- tounding to those who are aware of the great pro- gress made by us in manufactures generally, and especially in the application of Chemistry to the improvement generally of our Dyes. 9. When Beads are introduced, they should not be too numerous, or they will give an appearance of heaviness to the work. 10. In using Floss Silk, it should be cut in short lengths, or it is apt to get round. 11 The ladies in Germany are particular to buy uu MAXIMS. all their wools at the same time, so as to ensure the prevalence of the same shades. There are as ma- ny as one thousand different shades. Ladies of nigh rank m that country employ their leisure in executing Needlework for the shops. 12. The improvement of Design in the Patterns and in the juxtaposition of their Colours, is a great desideratum. At present, Arabesques, partaking of the character of Crude Mosaics, are but too com- mon, and are chiefly remarkable for bright but in- harmonious colour and bad drawing. We counsel our fair friends to use all their skill and taste to bring about a reform in these fundamental depart- ments which will materially tend to elevate Fancy JVeedlework to a close alliance with the higher branches of Art. 6 if IE LADY'S WORK-BOX COMPANION; BEING INSTRUCTIONS IN ALL VARIETIES OF CANVAS WORK: QRSitl) <£toent2=25ffl!)t 25nijrabe& Specimen.*, " Come hither, come hither, thou forester bold, Come hither. Sir Maurice and see Where four fair maidens, in cloth of gold, Embroidei thjr victory." (67) PREFACE. Embroidering on Canvas, or Tapestry Work, has been the favourite employment of Queens and noble ladies for ages. Among the Medes and Babylonians the dra- peries of apartments were carried to the greatest perfec- tion. Their palace hangings, carpets and cushions, were wrought with gold, silver, pearls, and other costly ma- terials. The use of Berlin patterns was first introduced in the year 1800, and they are at this day more highly esteem- ed than ever. The force and delicacy of oil paintings may be very nearly approached by a neat execution of these patterns. All the principal stitches used in embroidering on can- vas have been explained and illustrated by engravings, in the following pages. After the stitches are once comprehended, the work is exceedingly simple. The work from which the present is chiefly com- piled, is dedicated to her Majesty Queen Victoria, and has run through a large number of editions. The volume to which we now call the attention of our American ladies contains a greater number of pat- terns than the English work, and more minute instruc- tions concerning the best modes of arranging frames, grounding, and choosing patterns, &c. A number of beautiful articles have also been mentioned that may be worked for presents, or to adorn the boudoirs of ladies. (59) THE LADY'S tDork-Bc* (JTompanion CHAPTER I. PREPARATION OF FRAMES. This is a subject which must be carefully attend- ed to, or much unnecessary trouble will be incurred in consequence. TO DRESS A FRAME FOR CROSS STITCH. The canvas must be hemmed neatly round : then count your threads, and place the centre one exact- ly in the middle of the frame. The canvas must be drawn as tight as the screws or pegs will per- mit, and if too long, should be wrapped round the poles with tissue paper, to keep it from dust, and the friction of the arms, as that is essential to the beauty of the work. It must in all cases be rolled under, or it will occasion much trouble in the work- ing. When placed quite even in the frame, secure, 6 (61) 62 THE LADY'S by fine twine passed over the stretchers and through the canvas, very closely ; both sides must be tight- ened gradually, or it will draw to one side, and the work will be spoiled. TO DRESS A FRAME FOR CLOTH WORK Stretch your cloth in the frame as tight as possi- ble, the right side uppermost. The canvas on which you intend to work must be of a size to correspond with the pattern, and must be placed exactly in the centre of the cloth to which it is to be secured, as smooth as possible. When the w r ork is finished, the canvas must be cut, and the threads drawn out, first one way and then the other. It is necessary to be especially careful, in working, not to split the threads, as that would prevent them drawing, and would spoil the appear- ance of the work. In all cases, it is advisable to place the cloth so as that the nap may go down- ward. In w r orking bouquets of flowers, this rule is indispensable. The patterns for cloth w T ork should be light and open. It looks well for sofas, arm chairs, &c, but is by no means so durable as work done with wool entirely on canvas. TO DRESS A FRAME FOR TENT STITCH. Prepare the frame and canvas as for cross stitch, only not quite even, but inclining the contrary way to the slant of your stitch. This is necessary, as tent stitch always twists a little ; but when taken out of the frame, the work will appear tolerably straight WORK-BOX COMPANION 63 Should it, after all, be crooked, it should be nailed at the edges to a square board, and the work may then be pulled even by the threads, so as to become perfectly straight. The back of the work should then be slightly brushed over with isinglass water, taking care not to let the liquid come through to the right side. A sheet of paper must be placed be- tween the work and the board, and when nearly dry, another must be laid upon it, and the whole ironed with a warm iron, not too hot, or the bril- liancy of the work will be destroyed. Some persons use flour instead of isinglass, but it is highly improper, and should never be resorted to. CHAPTER II. MATERIALS FOR WORKING. Canvas (coarse) eighteen threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch with double wool. This is proper for a foot-stool, sofa-pillow, &c. Canvas (very coarse) ten threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch, over one thread, with single wool. If used for grounding, work in two threads. This will accelerate the work, and look equally well. Silk leaves. — If no grounding is required, work in 64 THE LADY'S tent stitch. The pattern should be large in pro- portion to the fineness of the material. The finer the canvas, the larger the pattern. Colours.— An attention to shades is of the ut- most consequence, as on this, in an eminent de- gree, depends the perfection of the work. The shades must be so chosen, as to blend into each other, or all harmony of colouring will be de- stroyed. The colours must be more distinct in tent stitch than in cross stitch, or rather more strongly contrasted, especially in the dark shades of flowers ; without attention to this point, a good resemblance of nature cannot be obtained. Wool (English and German), white, black and various colours. Two, three, four, five, or six shades of each colour, as the nature of your work may require. The same observation applies to silk and cotton, in cases where those materials are used. Split wool for mosaic work. Silk. Split Silk. Floss. Half Twist. Deck- ers. China silk. Fine purse Silk. Cotton of various kinds. Gold Twist. Silver Thread. Chenille. Beads. Thick and transparent Gold. Bright and burnt steel. Silver, plated, &c. Perforated Cards. Canvas, called Bolting, for Bead work. WORK-BOX COMPANION. 65 CHAPTER III. STITCHES. 1. TENT STITCH. This is accomplished over one thread the cross way, and should be done in a frame. In grounding, perform the work the bias J way of the canvas, and work from left to right. The tyro cannot be too sedulous in the due acquirement of this elemental stitch. 2. CROSS STITCH, 55 Let the wool be put across two threads, J: J: and the needle down two, working the ■™ cross way, and finishing as the work pro- gresses. 5. STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH. This stitch is the same as Cross Stitch, but is worked the straight way of the canvass ; and although on coarse can- vas, has a very pleasing and finished appearance. We have before us a flower-piece, fresh as from the pencil of Carl du Jardin, the grounding of which is done in this stitch, and the flowers have an admirable effect. It is but too much the error of amateurs in Nee- dlework to suppose that flowers cannot be repre- 6* 66 THE LADY'S sented in colours too distinctly bright ; but this is scarcely to be wondered at, when the examples of artists in oil and water-colours of the present day are so pernicious on this very score. WINDSOR STITCH. Pass the wool over six threads straight, and six threads down, which will present a square when the sec- ond row is completed. The pattern Jl-la-Van- dyck maybe rendered very beautiiul by a ju- dicious choice of colours, and of gold and steel beads, forming central points in particular shades. In making bags, a tasteful border should be added. It is desirable that, in contrasting colours, every third interposed should partake of the hues of those on either side. 5. PAVILION STITCH. Four threads having been taken straight down, bring the needle down one thread ; after that take two threads,, then four, as before, and finish the row. Commence the second row with a stitch in two threads, then take four, and so proceed. Gold beads tasteful- ly introduced have a very pretty effect WORK-BOX COMPANION. 67 6. JOSEPHINE STITCH. lUiMiUiLU ^^ s * s a ver y P re ^ :t y stitch for bags Mi jig with gold or silver braid, and is executed w[?ti: in stripes from the bottom to the top E9_:::E: Take six threads straight, and proceed 1 1 ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 to the end of the row ; after which take three lengths of braid, and work one of them in Cross Stitch, diamond fashion. m u n ii it !■■■■■■: i u S i ■■■ ■■■i ii ii Ii ii >■■■■■■> j If ii. ■■■ ■■■■■i « Ii II Mil ii i: j n ii ii nana 7. BERLIN STITCH. Work this stitch in a scollop, taking six threads straight down. Much of the beauty of it depends upon the contrast of colour (having an eye to har- mony) in the threads. The effect should be ascertained be- fore beginning to work. 8. CZAR STITCH. 'St.- nSffiw'" We have heard this called Economic Stitch. It is worked over from six or eight threads in depth, and two in width, crossed from right to left. Gold thread should be interposed between each row 68 THE LADY'S 9. IRISH STITCH. Four, six, or eight threads are to be taken straight, two threads being left between. The second row is to be be- gun four threads up, between the two threads left on the former row, and in working the third row, take care that the stitches meet the first row. This is a valuable stitch, easily worked in- to a variety of pretty forms. 10. WILLOW STITCH. muumunn in the same what colours are chosen. This is sometimes called Basket Stitch, and is effected by placing the needle straight down six threads. As you finish the sixth stitch, take out the needle at the third thread, and cross it over the centre. On doing other six stitches, cross over manner, and so on. It is indifferent 11. LONG PLAIT. Begin by taking twelve threads straight ; work six stitches, slip the needle down- ward half-way, and then begin another stitch. If striped with gold or silver thread at intervals, where the stitches meet, the effect is very striking. WORK-BOX COMPANION 69 required depth. 12. FEATHER STITCH. This is done over twelve threads, from left to right, in the same way as Tent Stitch, the next row being turned so as to represent the semblance of a feather. The centre is usually stitched up with gold, silver or silk thread. 13. STITCH A LA VANDYCK. Twelve threads are taken across, and reduced two threads each stitch, till the width agrees with the 14. POINT STITCH. Ten threads must be taken straight down the canvas, and as many in the next stitch opposite. should be placed in opposition 15. SQUARE PLAIT. The length-way of the canvas take ten threads deep, and work ten stitches straight; then woxk ten threads the width of the can- vas, and so continue. For the full display of this stitch, bright colours '0 THE LADY S 16. GOBELIN STITCH. Take two threads in height, and one m width. Many beautiful specimens may be seen at the Annual Exhibition of the Aubusson Tapestry. This stitch formed over Card or Straw placed be- tween two threads of the canvas, has a very pretty effect. Shades of the same colour in Vandykes,, whether dark blue and gold, scarlet and green, azure and lilac, &c. have a charming effect in bags of different colours. 17. PERSPECTIVE STITCH. Twelve threads having been counted the cross way, take the needle out with two threads at the top ; proceeding after this fashion to take seven stitches, finishing with any appropriate ffifP{mgj| colour, and filling in with silk. 18, A STAR. Six threads must be taken four oppo- site ways, and after that four stitches between a bead in the centre of each. The stars should be judiciously varied in colour, and worked in silk canvas. WORK-BOX COMPANION. 71 19. VELVET STITCH. Three rows are to be worked downwards of Cross Stitch, leaving four threads. Three rows more 01 Cross Stitch are then to be executed ; and so pro- ceed till it is finished. Over the space that is left, work (over strips of whalebone) with four threads, Economic Stitch double crossed at each end, and cut down the centre with a pen-knife. This has the effect of velvet in lines, and is very elegant. 20.- SERPENTINE STITCH. This is sometimes called Spiral Stitch, "and is ex- ecuted by taking five threads straight ; after that, five stitches on two ascending threads ; then one stitch on nine ascending threads, and five as before. In descending, take five stitches on two threads, one stitch on nine, five on two ascending, five descend- ing, and so on to the end. The fifth stitch is the top stitch of each row. 21. DOUBLE STAR. Stitch on two threads crossway, twenty-two stitches square, on silk canvas. Taking eight threads each way, commence the star in the centre. Bright colours are desirable, with a brilliant centre of silver, gold, or steel beads. 72 THE LADY S 22. CROSSED LONG STITCH. Ten or twelve threads deep must be taken, and worked to the re- quired width of canvas. Continue the next row in the same manner, and with gold or silver thread, cross every eight or twelve stitches throughout the pattern. The introduction of gold and silver thread has a surprisingly beautiful effect, provided the substrata of colour are such as to give it relief. Gold allies well with green ; silver with blue or purple. The more vivid tints maybe approximated by the shades of colour introduced between them. + ?2£ft^~rn v SXc J- 23. FANCY STITCH. Over any number of threads take five stitches, reverse the canvas, and work other five to meet them : which leaving a space of canvas of diamond form, rich coloured silk can be tastefully filled in. 24. LACE STITCH. This is one of the most beautiful in the whole range of stitches, and is commonly executed in Dlack Chantilly silk, both in cross stitch and in WOKK-BOX COMPANION. 73 «h"S SHVI-v !■■» >I !■■■ C ■■■■I ■■■■ >r 98. | 4'4& ■ :■ - >- :< ■ *E555 * < E3C< •:••:• •;-:< ■■■■■■■■ LLLLI 11111 ni'iir straight stitch, so as to ariive at a sort of dice pattern, and the edge is finished in wool in cross stitch. A resemblance to a pearl edge is given by taking two threads straight beyond the pattern. 25. PRINCESS STITCH. You must begin with two threads, and increase two each way till fourteen threads are covered ; af- ter which commence again on two threads, and increase to fourteen as before. Variety of colour should be alternated! 26. HOHENLINDEN STITCH. Begin by taking eight threads down the canvas and increase the stitches one thread each way up to twelve threads ; after which decrease to eight. Proceed thus : the second row being commenced with twelve threads which meet the long stitch in the first row. After this, the diamond space which remains must be worked in gold-coloured silk, eith- er as plate, or in an opposite direction to the first row. To a German Princess, as remarkable for hex beauty as for those amiable traits which captivated one of the bravest and most accomplished men of his day, we must refer the invention of this — the Hohenlinden Stitch. 7 74 THE LADY'S 27. CANE PATTERN. Ten threads being taken across the can- vas, leave one thread between each stitch to the end of the row. After this, take four rows of Irish Stitch down the canvas in shaded colours, which may be varied throughout. The rapidity with which this stitch can be worked, and the finish and neatness of its general effect, render it one of the most useful employed. Its narrowness is suggestive of that kind of bordering which would interfere least with the bolder and more massive character of sub- jects forming the central portions of the work. 28. SUTHERLAND STITCH. This Stitch has a very charming effect worked as plate, w r ith beads in the spa- ces worked with gold or sil- ver thread. Having taken twelve threads the width of your canvas, reduce a stitch one thread each way for six rows, the last being on one thread. Proceed thus, executing the next row in the same manner, the stitch being the long way oi the canvas. WORK-BOX COMPANION. 75 29. DARMSTADT PATTERN. Take one stitch two threads, threads each way threads are covered : straight increasing over two until six the needle must be taken out at the centre of the last stitch. Now take four threads, increase to six — decrease — form a di- amond ; and work up the space in its centre with silver or gold thread, or steel beads. It is scarcely possible to form a conception of the effect produced by this pattern when the colours are skilfully selected, unless it be seen on a larger scale. 30. PALACE PATTERN. For this very pretty pattern, one stitch must be taken over two threads, the long way of the canvas, one thread being increased each way until eight threads are crossed, — then de- crease to two threads. Proceed in the same way for the next diamond, fill- ing in the spaces with silk in bright colours. This is one of those designs which never wearies the eye, possessing within itself great variety of outline ; and so natural is its arrange- ment, that notwithstanding the angularity of its character, it never offends by the obtrusiveness of ■1111(11111% ^rrrrri ■ ■■iiPfe^w* -*::■■■ ■ ■■t-t^K^W ■!!■■■ :r=±ajiiii ill ma rriiiiiitmini one portion over another. 76 THE LADY'S d. PLAID PATTERNS. These are copied from ribbons, and worked in cross stitch. 32. DIAMONDS. Two threads are taken across the canvas, increasing one each way to fourteen, and decreasing similarly, progressing through- out in the same way. For the next row two threads are to be taken down the canvas, increas- ing and decreasing alternately. Finish with steel, silver, or gold beads, or all three. 33. ROULEAU EDGING. Procure a " Rouleau fork," wind the wool six- teen times round, take it off and fasten it by a stitch of wool. Ends of twine being fixed to a leaden cushion, the bows are placed between them, and are confined in their position by tying the strings. Our Parisian neighbours have the art of varying the effect of this kind of edging with surprising taste. No people are more skilful in the juxtapo- sition of colours, which may arise from the facility which they enjoy for seeing the best works of art Algerine Work. — This work much resembles a Venetian carpet, but is finer ; it looks best done in WORK-BOX COMPANION. 77 very small patterns. It is worked over cotton piping cord, the straight way of the canvas ; the stitches are over three threads. You work as in raised work, putting the colours in as you come to them, and counting three stitches in width as one stitch, when you are working Berlin patterns. The proper canvas is No. 45, and the cord No. 00. It is proper for table mats, and other thick kinds of work. To Fill up Corners. — Work in any stitch you prefer, and shade in accordance with the subject. In these, and ornamental borders, &c, there is much room for the development of taste and judgment. In all that you undertake, it will be well for you to recollect that nothing is lost by taking time to think. 7* 78 THE LADY'S CHAPTER IV. SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING ON CANVAS. Instructions in Grounding. — Care must be taken in grounding to make the effect of contrast very conspicuous. Thus, if you ground in dark colours, your pattern should be worked in shades of a light and lively tint ; for those in which dark shades predominate, a light ground is indispensable. The canvas for white grounding should be white, and if for dark grounding, a striped fabric is em- ployed ; the stripes will sometimes appear through the wool. To prevent this it will be necessary to rub over the surface with a little Indian ink water, previous to commencing working, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the edge of the work, and it must be quite dry before you com- mence grounding. A camel's hair brush is best for this purpose. In working in cross stitch, it is best to do so on the slant, working from right to left across the canvas, and then back again. This is preferable to crossing each stitch as you proceed, and gives an improved appearance to the work. It you work in tent stitch, work straight, or your per- formance will be uneven when taken out of the frame. In all cases, begin to ground from the cen- tre, and work outwards, taking care to fasten off' as yon finish with each needleful, which should not be WORK-BOX COMPANION. 79 too long, as the wool is liable to get rough and soiled. It is also necessary to have them irregular as to length, to prevent the fastenings coming to- gether, which they will be apt to do, if this sug- gestion is not attended to. For working in tent stitch with single wool, the canvas must not have more than fourteen threads to an inch ; for cross stitch you must have a canvas not coaiser than twenty-two threads to an inch ; for the former, you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool ; in the latter case a skein will cover two inches. Following this calculation, you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required for any piece of work, and it is advisable to pur- chase all your wool at the same time, otherwise you will have much trouble in matching the shades. An attention to these instructions will soon make you a proficient in the grounding department of the art. Working Figures. — This is at once one of the most difficult, and at the same time one of the most pleasing tasks, which the votary of fancy needle- work will have to perform; they generally produce the best effect, when worked in wool and silk, with a judicious mixture of gold and silver beads. The hair and drapery should be worked in cross stitch ; and the face, neck, and hands, in tent stitch ; work- ing four of the latter, for one of the former. To obtain the proper tints for the face, &c, is no easy task ; but it must be carefully attended to, as al- most the whole beauty of the work depends upon it The shades, in these parts of the figure, must 80 THE LADY'S be extremely close; indeed upon the shading of the features, the perfection of the performance mainly depends. The drapery also demands considerable care: the shades must be very distinct, particu- larly the lighter ones, in the folds of the dress ; and the back ground should be subdued, as much as possible, that a proper prominence may be given to the figure ; this object will be aided considerably, by working in the lighter shades in silk ; and re- presentations of water, or of painted glass, should be worked in the same material. The intention of the fair worker should be to give to her perform- ance as near an approximation to oil painting as possible. Raised Work. — This should be done with Ger- man wool, as it more nearly resembles velvet. For working flowers, you must have two meshes, one- seventh of an inch in width, and the pattern must be worked in gobelin stitch. Be careful not to take one mesh out, until you have completed the next row. You work across the flowers ; and in order to save an unnecessary waste of time, as well as to facilitate your work, it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades, taking care not to get the various shades mixed together. This is the more needful, as you cannot, as in cross stitch, finish one shade before commencing another. — When the pattern is worked, cut straight across each row, with a pair of scissors suitable to the purpose, and shear the flower to its proper form. For working animals or birds, you must have WORK-BOX COMPANION. 81 three meshes ; the first, one quarter, and the third one seventh of an inch ; the second must be a me- dium between these two. You will require the largest for the breast, and the upper parts of wings. Cross stitch may be employed in working the beak, or feet, and is indeed preferable. You can work leaves, either in cross stitch or in gobelin stitch, as taste or fancy may direct. You may work either from a drawing on canvas, or from a Berlin pat- tern, but the latter is decidedly to be preferred. Working Berlin Patterns. — For these pat- terns, it will be necessary to work in canvas oi eighteen or ten threads to the inch, according as you may desire the work to be larger, or of the same size as the pattern. And it must be borne in mind that all the patterns are drawn for tent stitch, so that if you work in cross stitch, and wish to have it the same size as the pattern, you must count twenty stitches on the canvas, for ten on the paper. The choice of colours for these patterns is a matter of essential importance, as the transition from shade to shade, if sudden and abrupt, will entirely destroy the beauty of the design. A natural succession of tints, softly blending into each other, can alone pro- duce the desired effect. In working flowers, five or six shades will be required ; in a rose, or other large flower, six shades are almost indispensable ; of these, the darkest should, form the perfect cen- tre, then the next — not prominently, though per- ceptibly — differing from it, and then the next four to the lightest tint ; the whole to be so managed as 82 ' THE LADY'S to give to the flower that fulness and distinctness which its position in the design demands. For small flowers, so many shades are rarely necessary. The two darkest shades should be strong, the others soft; this secures sufficiency of contrast, without impairing that harmony of tints which is so indis- pensable. You must recollect, that for work done in tent stitch, a greater contrast of shade is required than for that done in cross stitch. This remark should never be lost sight of. A proper attention to the shading of leaves is also indispensable ; the kinds of green required for this purpose, are bright grass green for a rose ; saxon green for lilies, con- volvolus, peonies, &c. ; French green for iris, mari- gold, narcissus, &c. ; and for poppies, tulips, &c, a willow green, which has a rather bluer tint than French green is generally ; and for leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is pro- per to work the tips in a very light green, as re- flecting the rays of light : the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the least, the next two, then the fourth shade tw T o darker than the third, and the fith two darker than the fourth. Take care that the veins of leaves be distinctly marked, and those which are in the shade should be darker than those upon which the light falls, and of a colour having a bluish tint ; a few worked in olive green will have a fine effect. The stalks of roses, &c, should be worked in olive brown, or a very dark green. White flowers are often spoilt by being worked of too dark a shade ; if you do not work with silk, you may obtain two distinct WORK-BOX COMPANION. 83 shades of white, by using Moravian cotton and white wool ; these combined with three shades of light stone colour, the second two shades darker than the first, and the third darker than the second, in the same proportions, will produce a beautiful white flower, which if properly shaded by leaves of the proper tints, will have a most beautiful appear- ance. The lighter parts of all flowers in Berlin patterns, may be worked in silk, and in many cases, this is a decided improvement, but it should never be introduced in the leaves ; here it would be out of place. We again repeat, beware of servile copying ; try to engage your own judgment in this w r ork, and remember that to become used to think and to discriminate, is one of the most valuable ac quisitions that a young lady can attain. For bottle stand, or any small piece of work, star patterns are very beautiful. The materials proper for working them are silk and wool, with gold or any other kind of beads, and gold thread or twist. For foundations, you may use either vel- vet or silk canvas. Small sprigs are pretty for work which is not too large ; chenille is proper for the flowers, and the stalks and leaves look best in silk ; a few gold beads add to the effect. For large pieces of work, medallion patterns are much used, and produce a good impression on the eye ; the outline is to be traced in brilliant silk, and for the centre employ two shades of the same colour, working half in each shade ; tbe medallion 84 THE LADY'S should be placed upon a white field, and the whole grounded in a dark colour, which harmonizes well with the design of the pattern. GOBELIN. If you work on coarse canvass, adopt the same contrast of shades as you employ in cross stitch ; if the material be fine, you must shade as in tent stitch. PATTERNS ON CANVAS. Employ for canvas, four or five shades, begin- ning with the darkest, and softening gradually into a lighter tint, till you come to the lightest, follow- ing the distinction of contrast exhibited by the Ber- lin patterns. If you wish to introduce silk into any part, it will be best to work it in last. Be careful to avoid taking odd threads, if you work the pattern in cross stitch. ARMORIAL BEARINGS. Work the arms and crest in silk, as brilliancy is the thing here principally required. It will be proper that the scroll should be worked in wool. The contrast will have a pleasing effect. LANDSCAPES. These may be rendered extremely beautiful, if properly managed. The trees in front should be WORK-BOX COMPANION. 85 much lighter than those seen in the back ground, and great care should be taken to prevent the lat- ter having too blue a cast, as this renders them un- harmonious when contrasted with the sky. Rep- resent water by shades of a blue grey ; the sky should be a serene blue, with much closeness, and mingled with clouds composed of various tints of white and a yellow drab. If mountains are seen in the distance, they should be of a grey lavender tint, and some living animal should, in nearly all cases, be introduced. The presence of a cow, sheep, &c, gives life and animation to the view. MOSAIC WORK. If you work with wool, cut it into short lengths and untwist it. No wool can be procured suffi- ciently fine for this kind of work. If you work with silk, the finest floss is preferable to any other ; split silk would be found extremely inconvenient, and the work would not look so well. Care must be taken that the shades are very distinct, or they will appear jumbled and unsightly. It will also be necessary to fasten off at every shade, and not to pass from one shade to another, as in that case, the fastenings would become visible on the right side, and thus impair the beauty of the performance. In working a landscape, some recommend placing be- hind the canvas a painted sky, to avoid the trouble of working one. As a compliance with such ad- vice would tend to foster habits of idleness and de- ception, and thus weaken that sense of moral pro- 8 36 THE LADY'S priety, which should, in all we do, be ever present with us, as well as destroy that nice sense of honour and sincerity which flies from every species of de- ceit ; we hope the fair votaries of this delightful art, will reject the suggestions with the contempt it merits. GEM, OR SET PATTERNS. For this kind of work ground in black or dark wool, and work the pattern in silks, as distinct and bright as possible, and with the utmost variety of colours. The beauty of these productions depends chiefly upon their brilliant and gem-like appear- ance. PERFORATED CARD. The needles must not be too large, or the holes will be liable to get broken. The smaller ones must be worked in silk ; the larger patterns may be done either in silk or wool. Sometimes the flow- ers are worked in Chenille, and the leaves in silk; this gives to card cases, &c, a beautiful and highly ornamental appearance. BEAD WORK. Use the canvas called bolting ; and work two threads each way on the slant, with china silk, ta- king especial care that the beads are all turned the same way, that the whole may appear uniform. Work the pattern with thick beads and ground WORK-BOX COMPANION. 87 witn transparent ones. You must, in this kind of work, have as few shades as possible. BRAID WORK. Trace this pattern in the material, and proceed with the various shades from the outline or light- est, to the darkest, till the whole is completed. In this work only two shades are required for leaves, and three for flowers ; make the points as sharp as possible, and in turning them, work one stitch up close to the point where you turn the braid, and an- other immediately afterwards, to keep it in place. Vein the leaves in a bouquet with pure silk, use gold twist in finishing, as taste may direct ; and in fastening, draw the braid through the material. The best instrument for this purpose, is a Chenille needle. In braid work and applique, only one stitch must be taken at a time, or the work will ap- pear puckered. RUG BORDERING. When we descend into the arena of domestic utility, it is vastly surprising in how many ways the Art of Needlework adapts itself to comfort and to ornament. We may presume carpets to be too un- wieldy for the management of fair fingers; but rugs come within the compass of the fair Artist's skill and taste. Many of the borderings complet- ed by English ladies are quite equal to the laboured productions of the Gobelins ; and are, of course, at 88 THE LADY'S all times superior to those which emanate from the loom. Use a wooden mesh, about an inch and a quar- ter in width, grooved. The materiel is passed over the mesh, and worked in cross-stitch. A kind of worsted called slacks is used for this purpose, six or eight times doubled ; leave three threads be- tween each row, and six or eight rows are general- ly required to form the border. Turquoise or Tulip wood stands are more generally in use than this bordering. WIRE WORK. It is desirable that the insterstices should corres- pond with those of the canvases employed in nee- dlework, or a coarseness of surface will be inevita- ble. Baskets, &c. are usually dark in colour as the ground for embroidery : but why not adopt lighter colours ? Dead silver, for instance ; or dead gold (the wire being washed with a preparation of gold or silver) would be of great beauty, and, if desired, the upper rim or other enrichments might be burn- ished. In doing work of this description, you must be careful to wash it well with sponge previously to working, or the paint will soil your silk or wool. There are a great many pretty forms for fruit and other baskets which look well finished off with cap chenille, a small wreath for the pattern being work- ed around the basket. There are also very pretty blotting books, note cases, &c, done in this way, WORK-BOX COMPANION. 89 lined with silk, and filled witfi blotting paper of different colors. CHAPTER V. ARTICLES OF LUXURY THAT MAY BE WORKED ON CANVAS. GOTHIC CHAIRS For dark-framed chairs choose light patterns ; tent stitch being grounded in cross stitch, as may be seen in the private apartments at Windsor Cas- tle. Sometimes a sort of cushion is inserted in the back, and the whole is done in cloth or satin, and the canvas withdrawn. Flower embroidery, gem patterns, and braiding, are all made use of in this description of work. BOX OTTOMANS. These should be made up with a deep fringe, and may be of any size in harmony with the rest of the furniture* Foot Ottomans should be sixteen inches square 8* 90 THE LADY'S CHEVAL SCREENS. Either in flowers or figures, this piece of furni- ture has a very elegant appearance. Sobriety ol colour, when figures are introduced, should always be studied. The same may be said of Pole screens. Candle Screens should be mounted in silver or gilt. Hand Screens should be worked in wire, card-board, or canvas, mounted with velvet or Mosaic leather. URN STANDS. These are now made in electro-plated frames, or those of rosewood, the needlework being in the centre, SETTEES. These should be executed in cloth, thirty-three inches long and twenty-six wide. BORDERS FOR TABLE COVERS. Silk velvet covers worked round the borderin gold braid and embroidered flowers, and finished with a rich fringe, present an exquisite coup d'ceuil, — wit- ness those at the mansion of the duke of Buccleugh in Whitehall Gardens. If we may judge from the paintings of interiors in the olden time, similar embellishments were in high favour. WORK-BOX COMPANION. 91 SOFA PILLOWS. Work the squares of canvas with flowers in pre- ference to any other pattern, and finish with damask, trimming with silk cord, tassels, &c. There are few subjects on w T hich more taste may he exercised than on these. A certain fulness ap- proaching to largeness is desirable in the design, otherwise the pillow will be lost in the more mas- sive attributes of the sofa itself. WEIGHT CUSHIONS. These may be obtained ready-made, and after- wards covered with any variegated pattern of nee- dlework. They are very useful. WIRE BASKETS. These should be of silver wire, and worked in silk POOL BASKETS. Should be worked from a Berlin pattern, and trimmed with Chenille. BLOTTING BOOKS. After being worked on electro-plated gold wire, these should be lined with silk, and the blotting pa- per (azure is a pretty colour) inserted. 92 THE LADY'S SLIPPERS. Are worked in embroidery, on canvas, satin, or soft kid. ORIENTAL CARPETS. For Pic-nic Carpet seats, the parts are usually worked separately, and then sewed together. Smoking Carpets are of various sizes and shapes, and are useful to place upon a lawn in fine weath- er. They are wadded and quilted at the back. Any pattern may be adopted, but flowers are the most appropriate. FIRE-SIDE CAPS. These are worked in gems, or flowers, or velvet. Embroidery and gold braid are also adopted. There are several pieces joined together to fit the head, and at the top is a handsome tassel. BRACES. These are worked on silk canvas, and commonly in silk. The flowers must be made to meet at the half of each brace. The leathern portions, w T hich may be purchased separately, are then to be added. ELBOW CUSHIONS. These are filled with down, finished at the back with silk, and trimmed with cord. WORK-BOX COMPANION. 93 HINTS UPON TINTS. There is no little difficulty in selecting canvas appropriate to the intended pattern. Eighteen threads to the inch is a canvas fitted to a pattern a- bout ninety-five stitches square : and this latter should be worked in cross-stitch, with wool doub- led. Ten-stitch should be used on silk canvas, when grounding is required, the pattern being large in proportion. As to Colours, much judgment is required in their election, as to differences and distinctness of shade, the transitions not being too sudden, or the work will have a broken and inharmonious aspect. It is very difficult to give directions on this subject, as every kind of work differs as to the treatment required; but it maybe safely stated that the same good taste which prevails in Water Colour Paint- ing, should preside in Fancy Needlework, with this exception, that greater depth and brilliancy may le- gitimately be aimed at. Remember, as a special rule, that where the stitches are small, the colours will not show so obviously, and therefore stronger contrast will be indispensable. It requires much discrimination to give a natural hue to leaves, and, at the same time, to effect such contrasts as will give a due relief. Portions of each should be much lighter than others, and in the grouping a mass should be thrown into shadow un- 94 THE LADY'S der the bright leaves; such shadow being compos- ed of dark green, blended with neutral tint. Silks should only be introduced in the flowers, and chief- ly in the lightest portions of them ; white exacts considerable management, as it should be shaded off with exquisite delicacy, by means of tints that have much white in them. In coats of arms and crests, these precautions are unnecessary for the most part, as distinctness and brilliancy are the main qualities demanded. The effect is truly beautiful. Colours have an exceed- ingly good effect on perforated card; and many la- dies adopt this material, working in silk or che- nille, and sometimes in wools. In Bead work, a canvas, called bolting, is in request, as it is of suffi- cient strength. Use transparent beads for the grounding, and be very careful that the beads all turn the same w T ay. Beads of all colours, and of every metal, in its most brilliant form, may be ob- tained. WORK-BOX COMPANION. 95 GENERAL REMARKS. 1. The best Wool is that from Saxony, which is derived from the Merino. The late King paid much attention to improving the quality, and much increased the importations of Sheep from Spain. 2. Floss Silk is commonly used in Fancy Nee- dlework. 3. Of Gold: the fabrics used are, Passing (a thin thread); Cord (two or more threads, twisted) ; Braid (plated material); and Bullion (a smooth tube, exquisitely twisted); Spangles, Lama, or Paillet (gilt plate, very thin); Beads and Fringes are also used. 4. Mother of Pearl, in various forms ; and al- so the scales of certain Fish, are used decoratively. 5. Chenille is in common use: the shades should be close. 6. Braid — Russian, French, Round : and Union Cord is much employed. 7. Paillettes of polished steel are very pret- ty in purse-work. 8. Canvases of Silk, Cotton, Thread or Woollen are employed ; but woollen canvas does not look by any means so rich as work grounded. French Flat embroidery, in silk canvas, is much in vogue. 96 THE LADY'S ROYAL AND NOBLE LADIES WHO HAVE EXCELLED IN NEEDLE-WQRK, There are many reasons why the employment uf the Needle in Embroidery, &c. should enjoy a very eminent popularity ; for while it charms away the loneliness of solitude, it adds to our stock of useful possessions. Moreover, it is attended by no fa- tigue, and agreeably excites the imagination and inventive faculties. No wonder, therefore, that the Royal and Highborn have in all ages favoured so delightful an occupation. In many works we find it recorded that the la- dies of Greece were famous for their labours in tapestry, and that embroidery more particularly contributed to adorn the person. The standards, also, which flaunted o'er the battle-field, were equal- ly the care of the gentler sex. That of the "Ra- ven," woven by Danish Princesses, and so much dreaded by the opponents of the Sea Kings, is of historical notoriety. Among other examples of ad- mirable needlework by the beautiful Adelicia, Queen of Henry the First, was a standard of silk and embroidery, subsequently captured at the Battle of Duras, and placed in the cathedral at Liege. As holding the mirror up to one of the most im- portant events recorded in our annals, the Ba- WORK-BOX COMPANION. yeux Tapestry of Queen Matilda is a most curious and magnificent specimen of the Art. There has been some dispute among antiquaries as to the ex- act origin of this celebrated production, but the dis- cussion has terminated in confirming the fact that the wife of the conquerer Duke William, wrought the " Historie" in honour of her illustrious husband. It is truly a " painting with the needle" of the highest class, and forms one of the best ground- works for correct data as to the manners, customs, and dress of the period— that is, the year 1666. The length of this great work is 228 feet and the breadth twenty inches and an eighth. It is now kept in the Town Hall, Rouen, and is pre- served with much care ; but at the period of the great revolution it was in danger of being utterly destroyed, by being employed instead of canvas as a cover for artillery. Fortunately, a priest conceal- ed it, and it was subsequently placed by Napoleon under the charge of Denon, and exhibited in Paris and elsewhere, in order to stimulate the people in favour of a second attempt to invade and conquer England. The material on which this work is executed is white cloth, and the design is completed in coloured worsteds. The colours are few, but are generally appropriate,— the cloth itself being left for flesh tints. There is an allegorical border; and the events are rendered distinct, and therefore more easily apprehended, by a tree, the entire depth of the canvas, at intervals. The names of the per- sons represented, and of the immediate action, are 9 98 THE LADY'S « also given ; so that a two-fold appeal is made to the comprehension of the spectator. Not only does this famous production throw much light upon the customs of the time ; it also furnishes a clue to the European origin of needle- work of this description; for the excellence to which it had arrived long prior to the Crusades, makes it evident that France and the Netherlands w T ere not indebted to the East for its introduction. The earlier and principal establishments were at Valenciennes, Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp ; but the most admired productions were probably those of Arras. The Gobelins manufactory was estab- lished in France by Sully, in the reign of Henry the Fourth. It was, however, in the reign of Louis the Fourteenth that the productions of this royal fac- tory became celebrated ; and they have since that time achieved, periodically, an increased renown. The Gobelin copies after Julio Romano and Raphael are the most exquisite works in their kind that the world can boast. After having said thus much of the moderns, and their advancement in this branch of Art, it would ill become us to overlook the glorious productions of Needle-Work among the chosen people of God. The daughters of Jerusalem prided themselves on the garments worked by them for the conserva- tion of their religious rites, and in that most sacred performance the " veil." It was of linen, embroid- ered with every possible device of flowers, so that the ground-work was no longer visible. Beautiful WORK-BOX COMPANION. 99 and accomplished maidens ! ye have passed awav and so also have the pious labours of your hands; but God and nature are still watchful over the scenes of so much glory, combined with so much c suffering and of change! THE LADY'S SELF-INSTRUCTOR IN MILLINERY, MANTUA MAKING, AND ALL BRANCHES OP PLAIN SEWING. WITH PARTICULAR DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT „ DRESSES, &c. fillustratetf tottji JFourteen SEnjjrabtns*. 9 * ( 101 ) PREFACE. The dress of a lady has been styled, and not impro- perly, the " index of her mind." She cannot, therefore, be too careful to make the index a true one, and one which the eye of an observer would peruse with plea- sure. The charms of every woman are heightened by a neat and becoming attire ; and her costume can never be so becoming as when planned by herself, if not entirely made by her own hands. A knowledge of Millinery and Mantua Making may therefore be ranked amongst the accomplishments most useful to a highly educated woman. In the following little volume such minute instructions in the art of mantua making have been given, that every lady may, with but little practice, become her own dress-maker. And if she prefers the assistance ot others, she will, by a perusal of the work, gain that information which will enable her to superintend their labours. Millinery is one of the most difficult branches of nee- dlework. To become a successful milliner, not only practice is required, but some natural taste for the occu- pation. We have endeavoured to lay down a few cer- tain rules, and to simplify our instructions in such a manner that the most inexperierced may comprehend them. Many valuable stitches will be found under the head of Plain Needlework, with explanatory remarks and engravings, which will render them comprehensible to persons least accustomed to the use of the needle. (103) THE LADY'S SELF-INSTRUCTOR IN Milliners, JUantua-JHaktng, (Bit. CHAPTER I. EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. Hemming. — Turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible. Flatten, and be careful, especially in turning down the corners. Hem from right to left ; bring the point of the needle from the chest towards the right hand. Fasten the thread with- out a knot, and when you finish, sew several stitch- es close together, and cut off the thread. Mantua-Maker's Hem. — You lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a little below that of the other $ the upper edge is then turned over the other twice, and felled down as strong as possible. Sewing and Felling. — If you have selvages, join them together, and sew them firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down one of the edges once, and the other double the breadth, and then turn half of it back again. This is for the fell. The (105) 106 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, two pieces are pinned together face to face, and seamed together ; the stitches being m a slanting direction, and just deep enough to hold the sepa- rate pieces firmly together. Then flatten the seam with the thumb, turn the work over, and fell it the same as hemming. The thread is fastened by- being worked between the pieces and sewn over. Running. — Take three threads, leave three, and in order that the work may be kept as firm as pos- sible, backstitch occasionally. If you sew selvages, they must be joined evenly together ; but if raw edges, one must be turned down once, and the other laid upon it but a few threads from the top. It is, in this case, to be felled afterward. Stitching. — The work must be as even as possi- ble. Turn down a piece to stitch to, draw a thread to stitch upon twelve or fourteen threads from the edge. Being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring the needle out from under two before. Proceed in this manner to the end of the row ; and in joining a fresh piece of thread, take care to pass the needle between the edges, and to bring it out where the last stitch was finished. Gathering. — You begin, by taking the article to be gathered, and dividing it into halves, and then into quarters ; putting on pins to make the divis- ions. The piece to which you are intending to gather it, must be gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on the needle, and leaving four ; and so proceeding alternately until one quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread by twisting it round a pin ; stroke the gathers, so PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 107 that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong nee- dle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers are gathered. Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each quarter so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to be sewed. The gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time ; and the stitches must be in a slanting direction. The part to be gathered, must be cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to make the gathering look well. Double Gathering, or Puffing. — This is some- times employed in setting on frills, and, when ex- ecuted properly, has a pretty effect. You first gather the top in the usual way ; then, having stroked down the gathers, you gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish the puffing to be. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown, frock, &c. you design to trim, at a distance corresponding with the width of the puffing, and the second gathering sewed to the edge so as to form a full hem. You make a double hem, if you please, by gathering three times instead of only twice ; and one of the hems may be straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires much exactness in the exe- cution, but, if properly done, it gives a pleasing, variety to the work. German Hemming. — Turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to do it as that b oth turns may be towards your person ) you then lay one below the other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the other, but lies 108 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hem med or felled to the piece aginst which you have laid it, still holding it before you. You are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have been engaged upon; and laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it down, and the work is done. Whipping. — You cut the edge smooth, and di- vide into halves and quarters, as for gathering. You then roll the muslin, or other material, very lightly upon the finger, making use of the left thumb for that purpose. The needle must go in on the outside. The whipping cotton should be as strong and even as possible. In order that the stitches may draw with ease, they must be taken with great care. The roll of the whip should be about ten threads. Herring-Boning. — This is generally employed in articles composed of flannel, or other thick material. The edge is to be cut even, and turn- ed down once. You work from left to right, thus : put your needle into the mate- rial, and take a stitch of two or three threads as closely as possible under the raw edge, and bring the needle half way up that part which is turned down, and four or five threads towards the right hand— make another stitch, and bring down the needle ; thus proceed until the work is completed. This stitch is something like the backbone of a fish, and is sometimes used as an ornament for children's robes, and at the tops of hems, &c. It looks both neat and elegant when carefully execu ted. PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 109 Fancy Herring -Boning.— This is the same as common herring-bone, only that it is done in a perpendicular manner, instead of from right to left ; and the thread is brought round behind the needle, so as to finish the work in a more tidy manner. It has an exceedingly neat and pleasing look when well executed. Double Herring-Boning. — This pat- tern is a kind of double herring-bone on each side. The engraving will give a better idea of this stitch than any de- scription we could give. Great care being required to keep the pattern even, it is advisable to run a tacking-thread, as a guide, down the middle of it. Button-Hole. — These should be cut by a thread, and their length should be that of the diameter of the button. In working, the button-hole is to lie lengthwise upon the fore-finger ; and you begin at the side which is opposite to the thumb, and the furthest from the point of the finger on which it is laid. The needle must go in on the wrong side and be brought out on the right, five threads down. To make the stitch, the needle is passed through the loop before it is tightened or drawn closely. Care must be taken in turning the corners, not to do it too near ; and, in order that a proper thick- 10 AiWI'lllllillil 110 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, ness may be obtained, it is necessary that the nee- dle should go in between every two threads. Mak ing button-holes requires great care and attention. Fancy Button-Hole Stitch. — This resembles a very wide button-hole stitch, and is very neat for the fronts of bodies, likewise for the bands and shoul- der-bits, and above the broad hems and tucks of frocks. Chain Stitch. — In making this stitch, you are to employ union cord, bobbin, or braid, whichever you deem most suitable. — Make a knot at the end, and draw it through to the right side. While you put in the needle, let the end hang loose- ly, and bring it out below, so as to in- cline a little toward the left. Pass your needle over the cord as you draw it out, and this will form a loop. In drawing out the mesh, you must be careful not to draw the stitch too tight, as that would destroy the effect. You proceed in the same manner to form the next and each succeeding loop ; taking care to put the needle in a little higher, and rather more to the right than in the preceding stitch, so that each loop begins within the lower part of the one going before it, and you thus produce the re- semblance of a chain. Chain Stitch, on Gathers. — This looks well if worked in colored worsted or cord. Two gathers are taken up for each stitch, taking care always to take one of the previous stitches and one new gather on the needle at the same time. PLAIN SEWING, ETC. Ill Fancy Chain Stitch. — The only difference be- &j tween this and common chain stitch is that very little of the cord is taken up on the needle at a time, and the stitch- es are far from each other. Its ap- pearance will be varied accordingly as you put in the needle to slant little or much. If you work it perfectly horizontally, it is button-hole stitch. Coral Pattern. — This requires great accuracy in the working, and it is advisa- ble for the inexperienced to run lines in long stitches, to fix the middle and outsides of the pat- tern. It may be best under- stood from the engraving, mere- ly observing that the stitch is be- gun on the left hand, and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the needle tow- ard the centre. It is very suitable for the waist- bands of children's frocks, the tops of broad hems, &c. Fancy Bobbin Edging. — This is formed by a suc- cession of loops, made in the fol- lowing manner : Make a knot at the end, and put the needle through to the right side, just be- low the hem. Bring the bobbin over the hem, and putting in the needle at the wrong side, bring it through. Draw the loop to the size you desire, pass the bobbin through it, and commence the next stitch, proceeding as before. 112 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, The Serpentine Stitch. — This is exceedingly pretty, and is much employed for children's dresses. It is worked with the hand, being sown on to the material when made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at one | end, then pass the other end through the loop toward the front, to form another loop toward the right hand 5 continue passing the bobbin through the loop on one side, then through the loop on the other, directing the cord so to pass from the side of the work invariably to- ward the inner part, or that part next the work. The Angular Stitch. — This stitch resembles |^ button-hole stitch, only that it is carried ItJ from right to left for the purpose of form- ing the pattern. It is a very neat ornament for cuffs, skirts, and capes of children's pe- lisses. As much of its beauty depends on its regularity, care should be taken to make the patterns very even and straight, and of equal width. The Horse-Shoe Stitch. — This is done with thick, loosely-twisted cotton, or bob- bin, and is worked from left to right, as shown in the accompanying en- graving. It has an exceedingly pret- ty appearance — especially when it is worked near the edge of robings, hems, &c. Honey-Combing. — The material may be velvet, PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 113 silk, &c, and the mode of work- ing it is as follows : The piece you intend honey-combing must be creased in regular folds, taking care that they are as even as possible. Then make the folds lie closely together by tacking them with a strong thread, and on long stitches. You then take silk of the proper colour — stitch together, at equal and moderate distances, the first two folds, and pro- ceed with each succeeding two in the same man- ner, only taking the stitches in the intermediate spaces. Thus the stitches of each alternate row will correspond together. Draw out the thread when the work is finished, and on pulling it open, it will form diamonds on the right side. This work is proper for the inside of work-boxes, and is sometimes employed to ornament the tops of beds. It looks well if carefully executed. CHAPTER II. MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS. Binding. — Various kinds of work have binding set on to them, in preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch. Flannel is generally bound, sometimes with a thin tape, made for the purpose, called " flannel binding." It is also common to bind flannel with sarcenet ri- band. The binding is so put on as to show but little over the edge on the right side, where it is 10* 114 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, hemmed down neatly ; on the other side it is run on with small stitches. Braiding. — Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less perceived. Marking. — It is of essential importance that clothes should be marked and numbered. This is often done with ink ; but as some persons like to mark with silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two threads are to be taken each way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, in order that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand. The second is downward toward you; and the third is the reverse of the first — that is, aslant from you toward the left hand. The needle is to be brought out at the corner of the stitch nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the letters or figures can be learned from an inspec- tion of any common sampler. Piping. — This is much used in ornamenting chil- dren's and other dresses. It is made by enclos- ing a card of the proper thickness in a strip of silk cut crosswise, and must be put on as evenly as possible. Plaiting. — The plaits must be as even as it is* possible to place them one against another. In double plaiting, they lie both w r ays, and meet in the middle. Biasing. — In this operation the first part of the stitch is the same as gathering. You then stitch PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 115 down i and upon the right side of the gather you lay a thread a good deal thicker than the one you used for gathering. Over this thread you sew, taking care to take hold of the gathering thread. The needle is to be pointed to your chest. You may work two or three rows in this way upon the sleeves and shoul- ders of dresses, &c. which has a very handsome effect. You must take care to bring the needle out between each gather. Tucks. — These require to be made even. You should have the breadth of the tuck, and also the space between each, notched on a card. They look the best run on with small and regular stitch- es. You must be careful to take a backstitch con- stantly as you proceed. Making Buttons. — Cover the wire with a piece of cotton cloth, or other material of the proper size ; turn in the corners neatly, and work round the wire in button-hole stitch : work the centre like a star. In making up linen, thread is much preferable to cotton. Sewing silk should be folded up neatly in wash leather, and colored threads and cotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to injure them. Buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, when not in use, should be kept fold- ed up, as exposure to the air not only tarnishes them, but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways. Night Gowns. — These must te made of a size 116 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, suitable for the wearer. The following are direc- tions for three different sizes : The length of the gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size, one yard and six nails for the second, and one yard and three nails for the third ; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen nails respectively 5 and the garment is to have one yard and a half breadth in width. They are to be crossed so as to be at the bottom twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen nails, and at the top fifteen, fourteen and twelve nails, as the sizes may re- quire. The length of the sleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, and the width is half a breadth : they are to be furnished with gussets, three, two, and two nails square, and with wristbands of the pro- per width, and of any depth that is deemed desir- able. A binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve, which strengthens it much. The gown is furnished with a collar about three nails deep, and of the length required by the wearer ; and, in order that it may fit properly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nail square, are to be introduced . A slit of about six nails is made in front, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders is three, two and a half, and two nails respectively. The whole is finished with a neat frill round the collar and wristbands. If economy is an object, cut three gowns together. This will prevent much waste of material ; an ob- ject, by every head of a family to be kept constant- ly in view. A Dress Scarf. — This is made of broad satin riband, and must not be less than two nails and a half wide : its Idtigth is two yards and three quar- PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 117 ters. The riband is to be doubled on the wrong side, and run in a slanting direction, so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck. The ends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid. The scarf is to be surrounded by an edging of swans' down. This is an elegant article of female attire. A Plain Scarf. — This is generally made of net, the whole breadth, and two yards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem, so as to admit a riband to be run in, which gives it a neat and finished appearance. An Indian Scarf. — This is an elegant article of dress, and can be easily made. The material is a rich Cashmere, and three colours are required \ that is, black, scarlet, and a mazarine blue. You must have the scarf four nails and a half in width, and one yard and six nails in length ; this must be black. Then you must have of the other two col- ours, pieces seven nails long, and the same width as the black ; and you are, after finding the exact middle of the black stripe, to slope off one nail and a half towards each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of the scarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the black previously prepared. You are to cut one nail and a half from the middle to the ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarlet stripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the other, as accurately as possible. The pieces thus joined together are to be sewn to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken to make the points unite properly. You are to sew the pieces flat together, and herring-bone them all round on 118 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, the right side. You finish by laying a neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings. It should be of a clear bright colour. The ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue to correspond with the two half stripes. Chemises. — These are generally made of fine Irish linen, or cotton cloth. They are made ei- ther with gores or crossed. The latter is the neatest method. Two breadths are sufficient for a full-sized shift, and gores are cut off of a given width at the bottom, and extending to a point, in order to widen the garment. In crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams ; then you double it in a slanting direction, so as to mark off at top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners ; this done, you join the narrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit for the armholes. There are various methods of cutting the back and bosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind : but in this case the back is hollowed out one-third less than the front. Some ladies hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut either straight or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. Another method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate from the shift and mak- ing the top quite straight : bosom gores are then let in, in front : the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a neat frill gives a finish to the whole. The sleeves may be either set in plain or full, as suits the taste of the wearer. Sometimes the sleeve and gusset are both in one piece ; at other times they are separate. In all cases great care should be taken, in cutting out, not to waste PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 119 the material. For this purpose it is always advis- able to cut out several at one time. Chemises for children of from five to ten years of age are gener- ally made with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedly the neatest shape for them. The bot- tom, in all cases, should be hemmed with a broad hem. Shirts. — These are generally made of linen, but cotton cloth is also made use of. The degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and station of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, if cut with care, make several shirts of an ordina- ry man's size. In cutting, you must take a shirt of the required dimensions as a pattern, and by it measure the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. Then cut off the other bodies, and from the remainder cut off the sleeves, binders, gussets, &c, measuring by the pattern. Bosom pieces, falls, collars, &c, must be fitted and cut by a paper or other pattern which suits the persor for whom the articles are intended. In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the front flap one nail shorter than that behind. Then marking off the spaces for the length of the flaps and arm-holes, sew up the seams. The bo- som slit is five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. The space for the neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makes the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar and the wristbands are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadths are so various that no general rule can be given. You make the binders or linings about twelve nails in length and three in breadth 3 and the sleeve gus- 120 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, sets are three, the neck gusset two, the flap gus- sets one, and the bosom gusset half a nail square. The work or stitches introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c, are to be regulated according to the taste of the maker or the wearer. Gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner, only that they are larger. The cloth re- commended to be used is that kind of linen or cot- ton which is called shirting width. Where a smaller size is required, a long strip will cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders, wristbands, &c. Gentlemen's Fronts. — The material is fine lawn or cambric. Sometimes the sides are composed of the former, and the middle of the latter. A false hem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open ; the neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, and is plaited or gathered into a stock or band. In order that it may sit neat upon the bosom, two neck gussets are introduced. Lady's Flannel Waistcoat. — This is in many cases an indispensable article of female attire. For an ordinary size, you must take a piece of flannel twelve nails wide and seven deep, folding it exact- ly in the middle. At two nails from the front, which is doubled, the arm-holes must be cut, leav- ing two nails for half of the back. The front is to be slightly hollowed. At the bottom cut a slit of three nails, immediately under the arm-holes, into which insert a gore three nails broad and the same in length, and terminating in a point. Bosom gores are also to be introduced of a similar shape and just half the size — put in just one nail from 121 the shoulder-strap. In making the waistcoat, it is to be herring-boned all round, as are also all the gores and slits. A broad tape, one nail in width, is laid down each side of the front, in which the button-holes are made and buttons set on ; the shoulder-straps are of tape, and the waistcoat fast- ens in front. Bustles, or Tourneures. — These are worn to make the waist of the gown sit neatly upon the person. They are made the width of the material and eight nails deep. The piece is to be so dou- bled as to make two flounces, one four nails and a half, and the other three and a half deep. A case to admit of tapes to be made one nail from the top. When worn, the article is turned inside out. The materials are strong jean, cotton cloth, or In- dia-grass cloth. Aprons. — These are made of a variety of mate- rials, and are applied to various uses. The aprons used for common purposes, are made of white, blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black lin- en ; nankeen, stuff, and print, are also employed. The width is generally one breadth of the materi- al, and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer. Dress aprons are, of course, made of fin- er materials, cambric muslin, satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, &c, and are generally two breadths wide, one of which is cut in two so as to throw a seam on each side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all kinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or stock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottom with a broad hem, those with two breadths must be hemmed 11 122 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, at the sides likewise. The band should be frorr half a nail to a nail broad 5 its length is to be de- termined by the waist of the wearer. It should be fastened at the back with hooks and eyelet holes To some aprons pockets are attached, which are either sewed on in front, or at the back, and a slit made in the apron to correspond with them. The slit or opening of the pocket is to be hemmed neat- ly, or braided, as may be most desirable. In some kinds of aprons bibs are introduced, which are use- ful to cover the upper part of the dress. Their size must be determined by the taste of the person who is to wear them. Dress Aprons. — Take two breadths of any mate- rial you choose, dividing one of them in the mid- dle. Hem all round with a broad hem three- fourths of a nail deep. The band is to be one and a half nails deep in the middle, into which a piece of whalebone is to be inserted, on each side of which work a row or two in chain-stitch. The band is scolloped out from the centre on its low- er side five and a half nails, leaving the extrem- ities of the band one nail broad. To the scollop- ed portion the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible, leaving the space beneath the whalebone plain. Confine the folds by working two rows of chain-stitch just below the curved lines of the band, leaving half an inch between each row. The lower edge of the band is orna mented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top. Vandyke Apron. — This may be made either ot silk or muslin. The edge of the apron is to be turned down once all round on the right side to th« PLAIN SEWING, ETC 123 depth of three quarters of a nail, and the Vandykes are formed by running from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of the material, which is af- terwards to be turned in. When the Vandykes arc completed, they are to be turned inside out ana made as smooth as possible. A braid or a row of tent-stitch on the right side over the stitches is a pretty finish. In setting on the band, the plaits must be placed opposite to each other so as to meet in the middle. You may line the band with buckram or stiff muslin, and ornament it with pip- ing if you please. Apron for a young person. — Clear muslin is the best material. Hem round with a hem three fourths of a nail deep, lay all round within the hem a shawl bordering, not quite so broad as a hem. Of course the latter must be taken off before wash- ing. A Morning Apron. — This may be made like the last, but, instead of the shawl bordering, surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped frill, a nail in breadth. The material most in use is ja- conet or cambric muslin. The frill of lawn or cam- bric — whichever you please. Girl's Apron. — Use any material that is deemed advisable. The bib is to be made to fit the wearer in front, between the shoulders, and sloping to the waist. The apron is to be gathered or plaited to the band ; and the shoulder-straps may be made ol the same material, or of riband. The bib either plain or ornamented with tucks or folds, as may be deemed most suitable. Bathing Gown. — The materials employed are 124 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, various. Flannel, stuff, or Bombazine, are the most preferable, giving free ingress to the water. The length must be determined by the height of the wearer, and the width at the bottom should be about fifteen nails. It should be folded as you would a pinafore, and sloped three and three quar- ters nails for the shoulder. The slits for the arm- holes must be three nails and three quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain : the length of the latter is not material. It is useful to have a slit of three inches in front of each. The gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom, and to be gath- ered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight with strings ; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or wrist in a similar man- ner. Caps. — These are made of a great variety of pat- terns, and the materials are as various as the pur- poses to which the article is applied. Muslins of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and cotton cloth, are all in request ; and the borders are also extremely various, muslin, net, or lace, being those most in common use. The shapes are so multifarious as to preclude us from giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her own pattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. The patterns should be cut in paper, and considerable care is re- quisite, in cutting out, not to waste the material. A little careful practice will soon make this depart- ment familiar to the expert votaress of the needle. Gentlemen's Belts. — These are worn by per- sons who take much and violent exercise, and are extremely useful. They are made of strong jean or other material, and sometimes of* leather and PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 125 may either be made straight or a little aslant, or peaked. Runners of cotton are inserted to make them more strong, and they must be furnished with long straps of webbing at the ends, sewed on with leather over them. The straps are about three inches in depth. CHAPTER III. MILLINERY. Much diversity of opinion exists as to the colours most to be preferred for bonnets. For young per- sons, bonnets look well made of shaded silks ; but for adults silks of a light and undecided colour are, we think, most elegant. No doubt, in the choice both of material and of colour, considerable defer- ence must be paid to the prevailing fashion. It is well to avoid the two extremes into which some people are very apt to fall. The one is an entire disregard to the prevailing taste, and the other a servile submission to its tyrannic sway. A medi- um course is the only sensible one, and, in this, good sense will dictate how far to go, and where to stop. Amid the variety of shapes for bonnets, the straight cottage form may, in our opinion, claim the pre-eminence : they will always, more or less, be fashionable, being general favourites. Drawn 11* 126 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, bonnets have been much worn, and are not likely to be soon out of favour 5 they are well adapted for summer, and have an exceedingly neat appearance if proper pains are taken in the construction of them; they have also another advantage — they may be made of almost any material, and look well either in silk or satin. Net is also employed for the same purpose, and made either of white or co- loured muslin ; they look extremely pretty. We hope the following directions will enable any young lady to make her own. If the bonnet is a full-sized one, and is made of muslin the width of common print, the required quantity is one yard and a quarter ; and if the ma- terial be silk or satin, two yards will be found ne- cessary. The canes are bought ready prepared, or you may use whalebone for the slots if you pre- fer it : it has one advantage, that is, it is not so lia- ble to break as the canes are ; of course, it is much dearer. Having got all the requisite articles, you proceed to make the bonnet as follows : First, make a foundation, either of willow or pasteboard, the shape you design the article to assume when finished, and you may make the crown and front of the bonnet all in one, or in separate pieces, whichever you think best. We shall first give di- rections for making a drawn bonnet, with the front and crown in one. This method is thus executed : It may be proper to premise, that in making a drawn bonnet with the crown and front in one piece, you find yourself obliged to join a piece of the material to the crown as neatly as possible, as neither silk nor satin is of a sufficient width, unless the bonnet be very small. You are first to take PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 127 one yard and a quarter of the silk, and doubling it lengthwise, round off the corners by the pattern previously made ; then slit the silk down the mid- dle, and run it together at the outer edge. Then turn it so as to have the running on the inside. Next make the places to receive the canes. You are to make four or five of these runners close to the edge, all round, in order to give it sufficient strength, and just wide enough to admit the canes. Above these the other runners are to be made half an inch distant from each other, and with a small hole to admit the canes; when the latter have been put in, these holes are to be sewed up. The runners are to be made with sewing silk, which is not to be cut off, but left, as by its means you can the more easily draw the bonnet to the proper shape. Continue these runners until you have completed the whole front, and then proceed to make the crown thus ; Make runners the same dis- tance as in the front, and the same number close at the top as you made in the edge. Having fin- ished all the runners, measure the proper length of the canes by the pattern, cut them off, and in- sert them ; you must also insert a wire of sufficient strength in the place of the second cane from the edge. You are then to draw up the silk both of the front and the crown to its proper size, by means of the silk ends you left to the runners, and fasten them as neatly and securely as possible. What is called the head-lining, is a piece of silk or muslin, neatly hemmed, and of the same depth as the crown, which, having inserted, you cut the cur- tain from the silk, three quarters of a yard in length, and half a quarter deep , this curtain is to be 128 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, finished by a narrow slip cut on the cross, sewn on to it, turned over, and hemmed neatly down on the under side. The curtain is cut crosswise of the silk. In preference to the narrow slip, some persons put a cord round the edge of the curtain, which must have a runner and cane at the top, on which you draw it to the size required. The bon- net is now complete, and can be trimmed as taste and fancy may direct. Another method of making this kind of bonnets is to have the front and crown separate. In this case, the front is made in the same manner as in the former example in all respects. The same ^ength of material is required, which is to be doub- led and cut in the same manner. For the crown you make a foundation of willow or stiff muslin, and you must so make the round patch at the top as that it will stand half an inch above the edge. This top piece is to be covered with plain silk, and before you cover the sides of the crown you must sew it on to the front ; you need not have the crown double silk, as an inferior material for the lining is quite sufficient. You make runners for the crown, and prepare the curtain as before di- rected. Bonnets of this kind, when formed all in one piece, are best made of muslin or of net, and they are especially light and agreeable in the sultry days of summer. Bonnets of various shapes are made of plain and figured silk or satin, and must in all cases be form- ed upon a stiff foundation. The best and most economical way is to purchase a foundation of the shape required, which is to be found in the differ- PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 129 ent millinery establishments. Having procured one to your mind, proceed as follows : Detach the crown from the front, and shape the material by the pattern, tack the lining and the outside to the front and cord, or otherwise secure the edges. Then make the crown, covering the top first ; then put on it the piece of the material that is to go round, in a proper manner, and secure it at the top by a single or double row of cord, fit it as tightly as possible to the frame you had before pre- pared, and fasten it on at the back. You then turn in the edges and set it on the front. The edge of the crown is to be outermost, or over that of the front. You put in the head lining and attach the curtain as in the former examples, and trim it as you choose. Bonnets for children are, for the most part, made in the same manner, and of the same materials. An acquaintance with the directions here given will soon enable any one to make a bonnet of al- most any shape. The principles are the same in all, and details cannot be learned from books — they can only be the result of observation and ex- perience. Mourning bonnets are made of black silk and trimmed with crape, or, if for deeper mourning, covered with crape. In trimming mourning bon- nets, the crape, bow, and strings, are generally broad hemmed, the double hem being from half an inch to one inch broad. For very deep mourning, the front of the bonnet has a fall or veiling of crape, half a yard deep and a yard and a half long, having a broad hem at the lower edge. The up- per edge, being drawn up to the size of the front. 130 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, is either inserted between the covering and the lining, or is set in along the upper edge r'^d cover- ed with a fold of crape. Collars and Capes. — These are so numerous and various, both in their shapes and materials, that to give particular examples in a hand-book is impossible. The general principles in all are the same ; they are worn as a finish to the dress, and should be made to sit as neatly upon the neck and shoulders as possible. Velvet, silk, net, lace, and various kinds of muslin, are the materials em- ployed ; they are made plain, and with worked edges, square-cornered, or in a semi-circular form, as best suits the taste of the wearer, and the pur- pose they are intended to answer. They are some- times made with a small collar to turn down upon a larger one ; neat ones are made of clear muslin, with a border of braid laid on in various tasteful devices. The widow's collar is made of book-mus- lin, with a broad hem at the edge, and over this is placed black crape. The cuffs, generally from five to seven inches deep, are made the same way and of the same materials. Collars for slighter mourn- ing are made of muslin, crape, or net. Turbans — The foundation of a turban is usually made of slight buckram or stiff muslin, cut so as to form a broad band for going round the head, with a peak or point to rise above the forehead. This band has a chip and thin wire at the upper and lower edges, and is lined with persian or sar- cenet. The material of which the turban is made (being crape, tulle, or gauze — frequently a gauze handkerchief) is then pinned on according to your PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 131 pattern or your taste, with a few occasional stitch- es. As turbans are rarely trimmed, they should be neatly put together in every part. On all sides they should be finished so as to bear the eye. To make a turban in the Turkish style, two lengths of gauze, perhaps two gauze scarfs, are twisted, one over the other, round the foundation A piece of the gauze is left over to cover the crown, and the ornamented ends hang down on one side. CHAPTER IV. DRESS - MAKING. INSTRUCTIONS IN CUTTING OUT A HRESS. In many instances, to be able to cut out and make up a dress, is an acquisition of no small ad- vantage to its possessor. This useful branch of female education is not, in our opinion, cultivated with that care which its importance demands ; and, in consequence, much expense is often incurred, where the money might be applied toother impor- tant and necessary purposes. Some people have an idea that they can cut out a gown or other dress merely by looking at one already made, or by an inspection of the drawings, and in most cases very deficient descriptions, found in books of the fash- ions : but this is a sad mistake. No great exer- tions are necessary in order to become capable of 132 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, practising this part of domestic economy 5 but still its principles must be understood, and its most simp e rules impressed on the memory £ lore anything like accuracy, to say nothing oV pro- ficiency, can be attained. b P No one will deny the importance of dress ; it is, who f,' 2 m i CX t0 *i? Character > and the fe°«le who is utterly regardless of her appearance, may be safely pronounced deficient in some of the more mportant qualities which the term « good charac^ ter" implies On the other hand, a regard to neat- ness and order, held in due subordination to the EST °f /• n °? er faCUldeS ' Wil1 generally oe found to stand in close connexion with an earnest endeavour after the attainment of intellectual and moral excellence. Thus, an attention to neatness in dress and its judicious arrangement, so as to be in accordance with the station and circumstan- ces of the wearer, becomes of much more moment than on a superficial view of the subject, some might be disposed to admit. Most girls begin dress-making very early ; that is to say, when they clothe their dolls: and very good practice it is. When their mother gives them a remnant of print, and they turn it about anct measure it to ascertain whether there is enough for a frock, and if there is not enough for a frock, determine whether it shall be a petticoat or a pinafore, and cut it out accordingly,— all this is practice in dress-making. When the doll is bid- den to he very still to be fitted, and when she is laid sometimes on her face, sometimes on her back, and sometimes held with her head down- ward, while a paper pattern of her waist is beinc O PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 133 cut, — all this is practice in dress-making. The practice will be all the better if the mother can spare a minute to look on, and point out that the front of the body may, if convenient, be cut on the cross, but that the backs and armpieces must be straightwise of the cotton ; and if she can just show how far back the join of the sleeve should go, and how the skirt should be a little taken up in front, that it may sit well, and not hang lower before than behind. It will be kind in the mother, too, not to allow bad work in a doll's dress, any more than in her own gowns. If you have had a mother or a schoolmistress who let you dress a doll, and made you do it neatly, you have had as good an introduction to your future business as you could desire. From making your doll's frocks, your next step was, probably, to make your own. Your first at- tempt, perhaps, was to run the seams of the skirt of your cotton frock, — to run the selvage seams with a backstick, and, in case of a gore or half- breadth, to make a hem with the selvage over the cut edge. If you puckered it in the least, I hope you were made to take it out and do it again, tak- ing care to pin the edges together at short distan- ces the whole length, that you might not find, when you came to the bottom, that one breadth gave you an inch or two over the other. Some few things about making a skirt should have been explained to you at the beginning — things which are true about the makinsf of all skirts, through every change of fashion, and whether the dress be of the coarsest stuff or the richest satin. These are — 12 134 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, 1st. Tnat you should pin or tack together the breadths of the skirt at the top, before you begin, so that you may not chance to put in more gores on one side than the other (if there are gores), or find that the hind-breadth comes to one side. 2dly. That you should, while first arranging the breadths, look very carefully that no one breadth is turned wrongside out, if there are two sides 5 or, if figured, with the pattern upside down. 3dly. That, as the uppermost edge takes up the most, as your work lies over your finger, and as the cut edge stretches more than the selvage, you should, as before mentioned, pin from top to bot- tom, before you begin to join them, the breadths on which you are employed. This is the surest way of avoiding puckering. 4thly. That you should, as often as possible, begin your run at the top, so that if there is any left over, it may go off at the bottom, where it is of the least consequence. You can do this in ev- ery case but where you have to join a cut edge and a selvage, and must begin at the bottom in or- der to have the selvage uppermost. 5thly. That you must remember that gored skirts hang lower at the bottom of the gores than either before or behind, and that the first turning in of the hem should be therefore laid in rather deeper at the sides of the skirt. 6thly. That you should make your fastenings so good as that the dress may wear out before they give way. This is particularly important with re- gard to the pocket-holes and the openings behind, which should be well secured by stitching, or a bar at the turn. It is very trying to a lady to find PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 135 her skirt slit down behind the first time she slips her gown over her head, or her pocket hole give way before she has put her hand into it half a do- zen times. With these remarks, and a proper share of at- tention, the following instructions will remove much of the difficulty in which the novice in the art of dress-making finds herself involved. First;, the materials for the intended dress must be procured, and it is advisable, whenever practi- cable, to get them all at the same time. The ne- cessary requisites, are the material, the lining for the body and skirt, wadding, covering, hooks and eyes, silk, thread, and what is called stiffening muslin. You will require all those for a silk dress, and most of them for those of other fabrics. Having thus procured the required articles, pro- ceed to cut out the dress, first measuring ofFthe number of breadths of the proper length for the skirt (which is, of course, to be regulated by the height of the wearer, and by the manner in which it is intended to be made), and try them carefully on one side. If tucks are to be introduced into the skirt, a proper allowance must be made for these, as also for the turnings both at top and bot- tom. You next cut out the sleeves, as being the largest parts of the garment except the skirt. In cutting out the sleeves, you must first prepare a paper pattern of the required shape ; then double rhe lining, and cut it exactly the shape of the pa- per, leaving about half an inch all round for the turnings in. You will thus cut the sleeve linings both together, and will avoid some labour and all danger of making one larger than the other. 136 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, Double the silk or other material so as that both the wrong sides may face each other, and cut the sleeves by the lining just prepared. To secure exactness, it is best to tack it to the material. Be careful to lay the straight side of the pattern to the selvage of the silk. The sleeves being thus prepared, proceed to take, the proper measures for the front and back of the body, by fitting a paper pattern to the shape of the person for whom the dress is intended. The pa- per should be thin, and you commence by folding down the corner the length of the front, and pin- ning it to the middle of the stay-bone. Then spread the paper as smoothly as possible along the bosom to the shoulder, and fold it in a plait, so as to fit the shape exactly, and bring the paper under the arm, making it retain its position by a pin 5 from this point you cut it off downward under the arm, and along the waist $ the paper is then to be rounded for the arm-hole and the shoulder, and you must recollect to leave it large enough to ad- mit of the turnings. In the same manner you pro- ceed to form the back, pinning the paper down straightly ; and leaving sufficient for the hem, you fit it to the shoulder and under the arm, so as to meet the front. You will thus have an exact pat- tern of half of the body, and this is all that is necessary, as, of course, you cut both sides, both of the front and back, at the same time. The linings are to be cut by the pattern, and the silk by the linings. You must take care to cut the front crosswise of the silk, and in two separate pieces, which are afterward joined in the middle. If the plait made in the pattern be very large, it PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 137 must be cut out on the silk, or the body will not fit well to the shape ; if small, it may be left : but we think that, in all cases, to cut it out is the pre- ferable method. It is not generally advisable to cut out the half of the back all in one piece, as it fits better with pieces joined at the sides ; these are called side- bodies ; and this method should always be adopt- ed, unless the lady has a very flat back : in that case, it is best to cut the half all in one piece. The backs must be cut straight ; and it is best to tack the material to the lining before cutting it. Having thus prepared the several parts, begin to make the garment, by running or seaming the breadths of the skirt together ; and be sure that it is made full : a narrow or straight skirt is now completely, and very properly, exploded. Run the seams as evenly as possible, fastening the ends to your knee, or to a pincushion screwed to the work-table, to hold them firmly. Run the lining together in a similar manner, and fasten each of the outside seams to a corresponding one in it ; after v/hich turn the edges at the top down on the inside, and sew them firmly together. Between the lining and the silk it is usual to introduce some kind of material, as stiffened muslin or wad- ding, to hold the bottom of the dress in its proper place. This is fastened to the lining, and the silk is hemmed down upon it. Care must be taken that no stitches appear on the right side. An opening in one of the seams must be left for the pocket-hole, which must not exceed one quarter of a yard in length. You run the silk and the lining together, as at the top, and make a plait 12* 138 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, which is to be folded over on the right side ; this is secured at the bottom, and conceals the open- ing. Having thus completed the skirt, to which flounces may be added, or into which tucks may- be introduced, if deemed advisable (they seldom are in silk dresses,) you proceed to make the sleeves, running up a cord on one side of the silk or other material, and folding both the silk and the lining the same way, you stitch them together, and leave an opening at the wrist ; you then turn the sleeve, and the edges being on the inside are not seen. The sleeve being thus seamed up, it is, if full, to be gathered, or done in small plaits at the bottom, to the size of the wrist. The gathers, or plaits, are set into a narrow band, lined, and you cord as you please, or as is most in accordance with the prevailing fashion. You next put on the trimmings at the top of the sleeve, and then set it into the arm-hole with small plaits. Some put on the trimmings after the sleeve has been set on to the body ; but it is a most incorrect and inconve- nient practice. The next thing to be done is to put the several parts of the body or waist together. This should be done slightly, and the body tried on, in order that the fit may be made as perfect as possible. When this is done, sew the parts firmly together, and put a cord over all the joinings except those under the arms. Fasten the plaits down on the fronts, hem the parts which require it, cut the proper shape round the neck, and see that the arm- holes are so made as to be easy and agreeable. Then hem the back, stitch the dress up the front as firmly as you can, and do the same at the shoul- PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 139 ders, the side-bodies, and under the arms 5 after which you must cut a cord or band at the waist, and also insert a cord round the neck. This cord- ing of the neck and waist require much care and attention ; for if not done properly, the appear- ance of the dress will be spoiled. In case you prefer a band to a cord at the waist, it must be lined, and the lining put on first, and afterward covered with the material of which the dress is composed. If there be any trimming on the body, it must be put on before the sleeves are set in. A cord is to be set round the arm-holes as neatly as possible. This body being now finished, you have only to set it on to the skirt, which is to be doubled more in front than at the back, in order to form the slope. You gather the part not plaited, and join it to the body. In setting on the back, it is best not to gather it, but to fold each gather as you pro- ceed: this secures an evenness not otherwise easily to be obtained. The depth of the slope varies, and no certain rule can be given, except that in all cases the skirt must be a little shorter before than behind ; otherwise much inconve- nience will be found in walking, especially where it is the fashion to wear the dress of a considera- ble length. It is often deemed desirable to have a cape to the dress of the same material. This is often found to be a great convenience ; and no great art, though a proper degree of attention is required in making it. The lining is to be tacked to the silk or stuff, and the cape cut out by a paper pat- tern the size and shape required. Before taking 140 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, out the tacking thread, a cord should be run in at the edges, and these latter are to be turned, and the lining sewed down firmly upon them. You now take out the thread, and ornament or leave the cape plain, just as you please. In making flounces, you must remember that they must in all cases be cut on the cross, otherwise they will not hang with that degree of exactness and freedom which is desirable. They are to be run on a cord at the top, the size of the skirt, and gathered. They should also be corded at the lower edges. Sometimes a casing is made at the top of the flounce, and the cord run in. This is much to be preferred to the common method. Tucks, with or without open work between them, have an exceedingly neat appearance, and never look out of fashion. They are especially proper in black and white dresses \ and when they are put on, it is essential that they should be cut straightwise of the material. To cut them cross- wise is decidedly improper. It is sometimes good economy to make the sleeves of a dress in two separate parts each, so that the lower portion can be taken off at pleasure. For an evening dress this is found very convenient, as the under part will come off at the elbow, and a ruffle of lace can be substituted in its place, which gives a short sleeve a neat and finished appearance. The directions here given apply principally to dresses made of stuff or silk. In those made of muslin or calico some slight variations occur These latter are not always lined ; indeed, cotton prints for summer wear are seldom done so ; but the lining of muslin dresses is becoming much PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 14] more common than it was some years since, expe rience having shown that the dress when linec\ through sits much neater upon the person than ii does without. In cases where linings are omit- ted, a piece of some strong material must be run in at the bottom o the skirt, and firmly held down with the hem. But we think a thin lining, even Tor the light dresses worn in summer, is to be pre- ferred. It is a good plan to set a cord round the bottoms of dresses ; they soon wear, but the cord is a great advantage, as when it get unsightly, a new one can with little trouble be put in its place, and the dress remains the same length as before. Frocks for both boys and girls are generally made with the bodies full, but the pattern must be cut plain in paper, the same as in the garments intended for persons of more mature age. The bodies of children's frocks are often made without linings, but, as a general rule, we think the prac- tice is exceptionable. The clothing of young per- sons should always be made so as to support the frame, without cramping its growth, or impeding its muscular action by unnecessary and injudicious pressure. The skirts of frocks intended for little boys are often cut crosswise, and look pretty and becoming. In dresses made of figured silk, or muslin, or cotton prints (for children,) the tucks should always be cut crosswise. This is especi- ally to be attended to in plaid patterns. Frocks for girls are by some persons directed to be made to come high up to the neck. This is in our opinion, a practice that should be avoided. The body, on the contrary, should be rather low, and made to lie firmly upon the projecting part of 142 MILLINERY the shoulder, but not to fall off upon the upper arm : this is almost as unsightly as the high body we disapprove of. The graceful form of the bust, one of the most exquisite productions of creative skill, should by no means be concealed ; a neck- lace is its proper adornment ; and should it be said that the clothing them up to the neck is necessary on the score of health, nothing can be farther from the truth. In fact, a moderate exposure to the action of the sun and air is essential to the posses- sion of good health. Mantelet. — In the making of this useful and fa- vourite article of ladies' attire, there is much va- riety in the materials employed. They are some- times made of shawling, but more commonly of silk, satin, cloth, velvet, and merino. The mante- let comes down nearly to the knee, and is lined either with silk or muslin, and occasionally with glazed cotton cloth. The shape is that of the cape of a cloak, and should be cut by a pattern to insure accuracy ; five breadths of the material will be re- quired, and the neck is hollowed to make it fit comfortably ; it can be either gathered into a band or set on to a collar. In the latter case, the collar must be made to turn over. You trim the mante- let in any manner you think the most becoming, with velvet, satin, or fur ; or it may be trimmed with either fringe or lace. It is neat, and very convenient for a lady, either for a short walk, or as a part of a summer's evening dress ; in the lat- ter case, the material and lining should be as light as possible. Ladies' Silk Cloak. — Choose a silk that is of a colour not liable to fade, of which six breadths PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 143 are required, and the width of the cloak is five breadths ; the length is, of course, made accord- ing to the height of the person who is to wear it. You cut the shoulder pieces first in paper, taking a cloak already made for your guide, and having fitted them exactly to the person, lay the paper upon the lining, and cut it out ; the silk is cut out by the lining ; and be careful to leave sufficient for the turnings in. Prepare the collar in the same way, pointed at the corners and slanting toward the neck ; the collar is hollowed out at the top from the front corners, to a sufficient depth be- hind, to insure its falling gracefully over the shoulders and back. It is lined with silk, between which and the outside, stiff muslin is to be intro- duced. The shoulder pieces are to have flannel or wadding between the silk lining and the mate- rial. Those who have no cloak at hand from which to take a pattern for the shoulder pieces, may obtain one by the following simple method : Take a piece of thin paper, and cut it in the shape of a round collar ; hollow it out at the top, until it will lie over the shoulders perfectly straight and close. The various parts being thus ready, proceed to make up the cloak. First the breadths are to be seamed together, so as to show the stitches as lit- tle as may be. One breadth is to be thrown to the back, and at one nail and a half from the seam cut the arm-holes three and a quarter nails long, and two and a quarter below the shoulder pieces, which are to be next made by running the materi- al and the lining together, with the wadding be- tween them on the wrong side, and then turning 144 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, them. You next double the three back breadths, and hollow them so as to fit the shoulder pieces 5 into which the whole is afterward to be set in as full and even as possible, the two front breadths reaching to the shoulder, and all the rest being set on to the back. At the distance of four nails from the shoulder pieces, plait in the back so as to fit the waist ; and a band, of a sufficient length to encircle the person, is laid upon the folds behind, and drawn to the inside through two apertures cut on each side, and worked as button-holes ; this band is fastened by buttons or hooks in front. Sometimes a riband-case is made on the inside, and strings run through it, which answers the same end. You next make the collar in the same man- ner as you prepared the shoulder-pieces, and set it on to the neck. These cloaks are trimmed in various ways. The arm-holes, when not in use, are concealed by pieces of the silk, three and a quarter nails in length, and half a nail in breadth, which are lined and set on to one side. They must have a row of piping set on all round. You may trim the fronts with a hem, one nail and three quarters deep, of velvet, cut crosswise $ or, if you prefer it, you can substitute an edging of fur ; but we think that velvet looks the most handsome and becoming-. The cloak is sewed round the neck with silk cord of the same colour, and finished with tassels, or an ornamental clasp is adopted 3 either is suitable, and may be used at pleasure. These cloaks are very elegant, when properly made. Sometimes they are furnished with capes of the same material, which are generally loose, and are found very convenient. They may be worn PLAIN SEWING, ETC. 145 as mantelets, without the cloak, and are made as follows : Take a sheet of paper as large as you intend half the cape to be, and round off the corners so as to form it into a perfect circle ; double this, and from the straight side cut a small half round for the neck ; open the pattern, and from the front of the inner half circle double one side in a slanting direction, for the opening in front. No precise rule can be given ; but the paper must be so fitted to the person that the fronts may meet when the cape is worn. Having got your pattern correct, cut out the lining by it, and lastly the silk for the cape ; both, but especially the outside, must be cut crosswise. The lining and silk are to be neatly run together and then turned, and the back seam seamed up. The trimming of the cape must be the same as that of the cloak. A Boy's Cape ok Cloak. — This may be made oi Scotch plaid or any other suitable material, You cut an entire circle, as large as you design the cloak to be ; in the centre of this, cut a small aper- ture, about twice the size of that required for the neck, and cut thence to the edge on one side - 7 this makes the opening for the front. Gather the neck into a band, hem the fronts on the outer edge, and the cloak is complete. Dressing Table Covers. — These may be made of any material that is proper for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but sometimes dimity and muslin are employed, or the table is covered with a kind of Marseilles quilting; which is prepared expressly 146 MILLINERY, MANTUA-MAKING, ETC. for the purpose. Sometimes the covers are mere- ly hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered with a moderately full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All de- pends upon taste and fancy A neat and genteel appearance, in accordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially regarded. Pincushion Covers. — A large pincushion, having two covers belonging to it, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are merely a bag into which the cushion is slipped. They may be eith- er worked or plain, and should have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all round. Dinner Napkins. — These are of various materi- als : if cut from the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table-cloths. Large and small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and light employment for very young ladies ; and in this way habits of neatness and usefulness may be form- ed, which will be found very beneficial in after life. INSTRUCTIONS IN KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROTCHET WORK; CONTAINING THE NEWEST AND MOST FASHIONABLE tfatUxni. (147) TO THE LADIES OF AMERICA. It is customary amongst the German ladies to fcave at hand some light piece of work, with which they can at any time be employed. When passing the evening in one another's society, even when passing a morning visit, or after dinner at a dinner party, or while sipping coffee, or taking ices at the public gardens, they con- sider their knitting or netting needles an indispensable accompaniment. And there appears to be a charm in the occupation that promotes rather than impedes con- versation. Our American ladies will doubtless find the custom one worthy of imitation. Many an hour which would pass tediously if they were forced to find topics of conversa- tion, may be whiled pleasantly and profitably away, by the assistance of some agreeable employment, which interests without engrossing the attention. The facility of carrying about almost all species of knitting and net- ting render them peculiarly well adapted to this pur- pose. In the following little work, all the different species of knitting, netting, and crotchet, are so carefully ex- plained, that a person totally unacquainted with their mysteries, may become a proficient with very slight pains. The most useful kinds of knitting, as well as the more fanciful, have been carefully inserted, and many new stitches are now offered to the ladies of America, with which we flatter ourselves, they have never before been acquainted. 13* (149) Explanation of the Terms used in Knitting A turn means two rows. To turn means to change from plain to purled, cr the reverse. A ridge is formed by two rows when knitting with only- two pins. A loop stitch, sometimes called making a stitch, some- times lapping over the thread, is formed by passing the thread before the needle, and in knitting the next stitch, letting it take its usual place. To increase in knitting a Quilt, care should always be taken to increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting a second at the back. To fasten on in knitting. It is a secure fastening to lap the two ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them both. To narrow or decrease is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a stocking. Ribbed stitch, purl stitch, turned or seam stitch, are all terms having the same meaning. A turned stitch is made by bringing the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over the upper cotton, it is put under. To slip, take off, or pass a stitch, is to change it from one needle to another without knitting it. To take under, means to pass the right-hand needle through the stitch on the left-hand one, so as still to keep the same side of the stitch towards you. (151) 152 TERMS USED IN KNITTING. Welts are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of stockings, to prevent their rolling up. Cast off, or slip and bind, means to end your work in the following manner ; knit 2 stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your cotton through it. To decrease or narrow, is to lessen the number of stitch- es by knitting 2 taken together. To increase, or make a double stitch, is to knit one stitch in the usual way, then, without slipping out the left- hand needle, to pass the thread forward and knit a second stitch, putting the needle under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is fin- ished. Hang on means cast on. Bring the thread forward means to pass it between the needles towards you. Cast over is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters to signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express, bring the cotton over the needle, quitt round. Round the needle means the same as the last term. Reversed means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed over the needle,' and then carried back to its place. Together means knit 2 stitches in 1. Set, or Tuft, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the fringes. To widen means to increase. The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am not aware there is any other rule for them. KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROTCHET WORK. FOUR BEAUTIFUL PATTERNS Of Lace Edgings for Collars, Dresses, fyc. By means of the following directions every lady can provide herself with lace edgings of the most durable kinds, and without either much expense or trouble. These laces, when knit with fine thread and small needles, are exceedingly pretty. When they are intended for common wear, or to trim the bottom of petticoats, they should be knit with nee- dles of the ordinary size, and coarse cotton. They wash well, and wear a long time. After a little practice, a great facility in knitting them is acquir- ed, and the work progresses with a rapidity which young beginners are apt to despair of obtaining. Cast on 8 stitches. — 1st row, — take off the first stitch without knitting it, knit plain the 2 next, lap in the thread once, take offl stitch, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 1, lap in the thread twice, knit 1, lap in the thread twice, knit 1. 2nd row — knit plain 2 stitches, seam 1 and put (153) 154 KNITTING, NETTING, back your thread, knit 2, seam 1 and put back youT thread, knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 3. 3rd row, — take off the first stitch, knit 2, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit the rest. 4th row — knit the two first, slip and bind, knit and slip and bind until only 7 stitches are on the left hand needle and 1 on the other, knit 3, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit the rest. Cast on 11 stitches. — 1st row, — take off the first stitch, knit 2, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 1, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 1, lap in thread twice, knit 1, lap in the thread twice, knit 1. 2nd row, — knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 3. 3rd row, — take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 1, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit the rest 4th row, — knit 2, slip and bind, knit and slip and bind until only 10 stitches are on the left hand nee- dle and 1 on the other, knit 3, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit the rest. Cast on 11 stitches. — 1st row, — knit 3, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1, make 1, narrow 1, make 2, nar- row 1, knit 1. 2nd row, — knit 3, seam 1, and put back your AND CROTCHET WORK. 155 thread, knit 2, make 1, narrow I, knit 1, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1. 3rd row, — knit 3, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1, make 1, narrow 1, knit 4. 4th row, — knit 2, slip and bind, knit 4, make 1 , narrow 1, knit 1, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1. Cast on 7 stitches. — 1st row, — take off 1 stitch, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1. 2nd row, — make 1 stitch, knit 2, seam 1, put back your thread, knit 1, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. 3rd row, — take off 1, knit 2, lap in Hie thread once, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1 . 4th row — make 1, knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit' 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 1, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. 5th row, — take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 7. 6th row, — knit 8, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. ' 7th row, — take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1, knit 1. 8th row, — knit 3, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1 and put back your thread, knit 1, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. 9th row, — take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 10. 156 KNITTING, NETTING, 10th row, — knit and slip and bind 8, leaving 6 on the other needle, then knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. A baby's sock. With 2 colors done in stripes and double German lambs'-wool. Cast on 26 stitches, knit a plain row with the first color : fasten on the second, knit a row, adding a stitch at the end for the heel, and back again ; then take the first color, knit a row adding another stitch and back again ; continue the same alternate- ly, but without adding any more stitches for the heel until there are 6 ridges of each color, then with the first knit a row, and in coming back cast off 15 stitches, beginning from the end at which you ad- ded two stitches, knit the 13 that are left ; with the second color knit a row and back again, then knit a row and back again with the first, and continue the same until you have four ridges of the second and three of the first color : then with the first color knit the 13 stitches, add 15 and knit back again. Finish this side like the other, only decreasing for the heel. It is then sewed up in the shape of a shoe. Take four needles, pick up the 36 stitchea round the instep, putting 12 on each of three nee- dles, and knit two rounds plain, then pass tho lambs'-wool forward (so as to form a stitch), slip a stitch and knit 2 plain, then pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones, pass the lambs'-wool for- AND CROTCHET WORK. 157 ward, and repeat this for one round, continue plain knitting for an inch ; after that rib 4 rows, knit 4, rib 4, knit 2, and cast off. baby's socks. 1st size. Two ivory needles No. 12, and 3-ply fleecy, are re- quired. Cast on 24 stitches ; knit 2 plain rows, add one stitch ; knit 2 more rows and add another stitch which forms the heel ; then continue knitting until you can count 10 ridges ; cast off 14 stitches begin- ning from where you added on for the heel : knit 6 more ridges, add on 14 stitches, and make this side to match with the other, decreasing for the heel. Pick up the 14 loops on each side and the six in the middle, and put them all on one needle : knit a plain row, then a row of holes for the ribbon to pass through, which is done in this manner : — begin with the lambs'-wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the next, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one ; after this row is finished knit 8 ridges. baby's mufflers. In German Wool, with four needles No. 19. Cast on 53 stitches (the width round). Knit 32 rounds in ribs of one stitch ; the seam is made by ribbing the middle stitch of one needle every other round. Knit 3 rounds plain knitting, and begin the 14 15S KNITTING, NETTING, thumb by increasing one stitch in the middle oppo- site the seam. Make a seam-stitch on each side of it. Every third row, increase 2 stitches within the seam-stitches of the thumb, until it has 21 stitches ; knit the thumb round, making a seam up from where it leaves the hand ; knit 14 rounds, then de- crease every 3rd stitch in every 3rd round until on- ly 6 stitches are left, cast them off together. To finish the hand, take up 3 stitches at the bottom of the thumb to prevent a hole, and knit round ; rrake a seam to correspond with that which is on the oth- er side, and every 3rd round decrease one stitch on each side the seam where the thumb joins until on- ly 48 are left. Knit 12 rounds ; then decrease one stitch on each side of each seam, twice, every 3rd round, twice, every 2nd, afterwards decrease every round until 16 stitches are left, which cast off to- gether. CHILD'S SOCK, TO BE WORN WITH SHOES In German Wool, with four needles No. 21. Cast on 65 stitches, 22 on two needles and 21 on the third (turn the 11th on this needle every other round for the seam) ; when you have done 60 turn- ed stitches (that is 120 rounds), divide 33 stitch- es for the heel (the middle stitch is the seam-stitch), and 32 for the instep ; knit the stitches for the heel until you have 20 turns (the back rows are ribbed) for the length of the heel ; divide the stitches and ioin it up. Take up 20 stitches on each side of the AND CROTCHET WORK. 153 neel, make a seam on each side of the instep, and take up a stitch in the loop before the first and after the last stitch on the instep needle (this is to pre- vent there being holes in the corners). Then nar- row every second round on the heel side of the seams, until you have the same number of stitches as on the instep. Knit 20 rounds and narrow for the toe, which is done by taking two stitches to- gether on each side the seams ; repeat this twice, knitting 3 rounds between, again, knitting two rounds between, then twice, knitting one round, then in every round until you have 14 stitches, which divide and cast off. KNEE CAPS IN LAMBS'-WOOL. Very coarse needles. Begin with 36 stitches ; knit 8 or 12 rows, ac- cording to the size wished for ; knit 15 stitches, make a stitch, knit 6, make a stitch, knit the rest. Add 2 in the same manner every other row until you have 52 on the needle. Knit 12 or 16 rows, and decrease in the same proportion in which you augmented. Sew the ends together. EVENING CARRIAGE SHOES. They should be made in 2 colors, for instance, brown and blue. Two needles only are required. Cast on 60 stitches of the brown lambs'- wool ; 160 KNITTING, NETTING, knit a plain row ; begin the next row with knitting 4 stitches of blue, slip 2 brown stitches, knit 4 blue, and so on to the end of the row, which will end with 2 slipped stitches ; slip them again next row, rib the blue and slip the brown stitches to the end of the row: the next row is plain knitting, still slipping the brown stitches ; the 4th row is ribbed back slipping the brown stitches as before. Now knit two plain rows with the brown lambs'-wool, knitting the slipped stitches ; then rib 2 rows still with the brown. Knit 1 blue stitch, slip 2 brown, knit 4 blue, and so on to the end of the row. This is the same as the 2nd row, except that the two brown slipped stitches are to be over the centre of the four blue ones ; this you must be careful to ob- serve, so that four of the blue squares form a dia- mond. All the slipped stitches are taken under, so as not to twist them. When you think the shoe is long enough cast off. Double it lengthways, and sew up the ends : put a bit of fringe round it, run in a string, and although it will look like an oblong square, if you put it on, you will find it fit very well. This pattern is pretty for sofa cushions, quilts, tidies, &c. PLAIN MITTENS. Needles No. 17, six needles required* Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, with the 4th knit 3 stitches and rib 3 alternately, until you hav€ AND CROTCHET WORK. 161 done about an inch in depth (or, if you prefer it, you can rib the mitten all through) ; knit plain rather more than another inch, and begin increas- ing for the thumb by making a stitch in the middle of a row ; this stitch is made by taking up a stitch between two stitches ; knit a plain round ; take up a stitch before the stitch you made, and another af- ter it ; continue making two stitches every other round until you have 25 stitches for the thumb ; knit round until you come to the thumb ; take the 12 stitches on each side of the thumb on the other 2 needles, and with two additional needles divide the stitches for the thumb into three ; join up the thumb by knitting round, and cast off when it is sufficient- ly long ; then begin knitting the mitten again, ta- king up a few stitches (about 7) at the bottom of the thumb, to prevent there being a hole there ; it likewise makes the mitten sit better ; decrease these stitches until you have the original number left ; knit about 10 rounds, and begin ribbing in threes again : w r hen the mitten is long enough, cast off. These mittens made in fine lambs'-wool are very warm to wear over gloves in winter. It may be observed, that all mittens are made on the same plan, except that in fancy knitting, it is generally necessary to make double stitches for the increase, instead of taking them up between the stitches. 14* 162 KNITTING, NETTING, NETTED MITTENS. A quarter of an ounce of silk is required: it should be even and free from knots. Net 60 stitches on a round foundation; net 24 rounds : at the 25th round net 22 stitches, net 2 in the 22nd stitch, net 6 plain stitches, and at the 7th add a second stitch. The next round is plain netting. Add 2 stitches every other round, until you have 72 rounds ; then separate the stitches you have added with the 6 in the middle (32 in number) for the thumb ; net the first and last together, and diminish gradually until you think it small enough ; make it as long as you please, and cut off your silk : tie the silk on neatly at the join of the thumb to continue your mitten, add 4 stitches, 2 on each side of the join, and make it as long as you think necessary. To finish it, either work an edge, or sew on a narrow lace the color of the mitten, and work the back by darning in the diamonds, formed by the netting, for the fin- ger marks. LAMBS'-WOOL MUFFATEES. Four needles are required, No. 14. Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches, ac- cording to the size you want your muffatee, and with the fourth needle knit 3 and rib 3 stitches al- ternately, until your muffatee is long enough. AND CROTCHET W0R5. 163 DRIVING MUFFATEES. Begin as for the preceding muffatees, only with coarser needles and fleecy. Knit 3 or 4 inches, then begin double knitting on much coarser needles; knit about 6 inches, and cast off. Sew up the opening at the side. This makes a very warm muffatee for driving in cold weather. CORKSCREW MUFFATEES. Four needles No. 16 are required. Five skeins of German lambs' -wool are used for each muffatee ; the two first and two last skeins should be alike, and the middle one white. Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds of 3 stitches plain, and 3 ribbed alternately ; knit 3 rounds, knitting on every needle the first two stitches and the last one plain, the intervening stitches being knitted 3 ribbed and 3 plain alter- nately. When you come to the next 3 rounds, knit the first and two last stitches plain ; after that knit 3 rounds of 3 stitches ribbed, and 3 plain al- ternately; then 3 rounds, the first 2 and the last 1 stitches ribbed, and between knit 3 plain and 3 rib- bed; then rib the 1st and 2 last stitches for 3 rounds : begin the whole pattern again, only knit- ting 3 rounds instead of 2, of 3 stitches plain and 3 ribbed. 164 KNITTING, NETTING, FRINGE. No. 1. A skein of knitting cotton must be cut into 8 lengths for the fringe ; or, if you wish your fringe to be very deep, cut your skein into 4 or 6. The most convenient way is to divide these lengths into sets containing 3 threads in each, and lay them be- fore you : then with a ball of the same cotton, and two steel needles, which should be rather coarse, cast on 8 stitches, and knit 1 row plain : begin the next row by knitting the 2 first stitches plain, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 stitches taken together, by this means you make a loop stitch ; take 1 of the sets of cotton, put the ends even, double it in half and loop it over the needle you are knitting with, forward; knit 1 stitch, pass the set back be- tween the needles, knit 2 stitches, bring the set for- ward again, and knit the last stitch. The back rows are plain knitting ; you must be careful to take the whole head of the set with the 4th stitch, which leaves 4 to be knitted plain, a nd you have 8 as at the beginning ; after finishing this row, give the set or tuft a pull down, which puts it in its light place, before beginning another. FRINGE. No. 2. Cast on 9 stitches. Slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd and 3rd, bring the thread forward, knit 2 to- AND CROTCHET WORK. 165 gether, knit 1, turn the thread forward, knit 2 to- gether, knit the last. When you have the length you want, cast off 5 stitches, and unravel the 4 others, which form the fringe. This fringe may be made wider by casting on 12 or 15 stitches. HERRINGBONE PURSE. Two needles only are required for this knitting. Cast on 88 stitches, begin with the silk forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pass the 1st over the 2nd, knit a stitch, bring the silk forward and rib the next. When this is done, the silk will be forw r ard ; begin again. If the purse be required to be longer, cast on as many' stitches as are necessary, observing that it must be a number which can be divided by four. A STRONG PURSE. With 2 steel needles and coarse netting silk cast on 60 stitches, knit the first, bring the silk forward, slip a stitch, knit the next, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the silk forward and begin again. The second row is simple knit- ting 166 KNITTING, NETTING, PORCUPINE KNITTING FOR A PURSE. Four fine needles, nearly 3 skeins of netting silk, and one string of gold beads are required. Thread some of the beads on the silk before you begin. Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit a plain round ; knit 4 stitches, bring the silk forward, knit a stitch — this is the centre stitch of the pattern — bring the silk forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch, taking it under, knit 2 taken together, pull the slip- ped stitch over it, then begin knitting the 4 stitches, &c. ; it is better at the end of each needle to knit a stitch off the next one, as it prepares for the next round. Continue thus for 6 rounds, increasing be- fore and after every centre stitch, and knitting till within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit a plain round. Knit another round plain, excepting over the centre stitches, where you are to knit a bead, bringing it through the stitch. Knit a plain round, keeping the beads on the outside of the purse. (This purse is knitted wrong side outwards.) Knit to within one stitch of the bead stitch, which slip ; knit 2 together : these 6 rounds, increase each side of the stitch you decreased with in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch for the bead. It is easy to count the number of rounds you have done, at the place w r here you decreased. This pattern is very pretty for a boa, knitted with German lambs'-wool and needles No. ]5. AND CROTCHET WORK. 167 SPOTTED PURSE. Cast on 69 stitches; take off the 1st stitch, bring the silk forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pass the slip- ped stitch over the 2 last, repeat this to the end of the row. The back rows are ribbed. This pattern is very pretty in two colors, chang- ing them every 2 rows. ANOTHER PURSE. First row : slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pass the first stitch over the second; repeat this to the end of the row T . Second row : bring the silk forward every time. This is a very pretty stitch for d'oyleys with a plain border. Any even number of stitches may be set up. A NET PURSE IN POINTS. Fifty stitches long and 80 rows wide, of a mid- dle-sized silk and mesh. Net 31 stitches with one color, and back again ; then 28, 25, 22, 19, and back again to each ; then with the other color be- gin at the distance of 19 stitches, and net until you meet the side already done : pass the needle through the stitch to connect them. Half a point is now done, you reverse the number of stitches to com- plete it. It is also very pretty if the points are made long- 168 KNITTING, NETTING, er, say 45 stitches, decreasing by four stitches every other row, until you leave only 5 for the other point. CORKSCREW NETTING FOR A PURSE. Two different colored silks are required, for instance, brown and blue ; 1 mesh, and 2 needles ; thread each of the needles with one color. A round foundation, consisting of 60 stitches, should be used. Join both needles on together, net with the brown 30 stitches, then begin with the blue and net the other 30 stitches; net the blue silk back and con- tinue it over 6 stitches of the brow T n ; now take the needle with brown, pass it through the blue stitch, and net till you meet the needle with blue, turn back (still with the brown silk), and net round till you have gone over 6 blue stitches ; net with the blue again, passing the needle through the brown stitch ; continue thus advancing each color 6 stitches at one side and receding at the other, till the purse is one-third long enough, then begin the opening, which is made by omitting to pass the silk through the stitch at one place; the pattern you must carry on as before, for which you will be obliged to fasten on your silk to fill up where you recede AND CROTCHET WORK. 169 d'oyleys. Two needles are required. Cast on 86 stitches,- knit a row of two stitches plain and two ribbed. In the 2nd row, rib the stitches that were plain in the first row, and knit plain those that were ribbed. In the 3rd row, rib the stitches that were ribbed in the last row, and knit plain those that were knitted plain. 4th row, rib the plain stitches and knit the ribbed ones. Re- peat these four rows five times. 2nd pattern in the d'oyley, continue the first pattern for 10 stitches, then knit, putting the cotton twice round the needle every stitch until you have only 10 left on the nee- dle, knit them like the 10 first ; these ten stitches on each side form the border, and are always the same pattern knit the next three rows plain, ex- cept the border ; then repeat the first row of this pattern ; knit 3 rows ; the border as before. 3rd row, begin with the cotton forward, knit tw T o in one, bring the cotton forward, &c, until you come to the border again ; knit 3 plain rows, repeat these 4 rows 3 times, and begin the 2nd pattern again ; continue these two patterns alternately, until the d'oyley is nearly square, then finish with the same width of border as at the top. For this knitting, your cotton and needles should be rather fine. N. B. Many of the patterns given as purse stitch- es are very pretty for d'oyleys, with a border either of plain or fancy knitting. 170 KNITTING, NETTING, SAVE-ALL BAG. Four coarse needles are required. This hag is $6 called because it may be made with odds and ends of netting silk, or all of one color, at pleasure. Cast 40 stitches on each of 3 needles ; knit one plain round ; then knit one stitch, bring the silk for- ward, knit a stitch, thus forming a loop-stitch in addition to the original number, knit a stitch, bring the silk forward, and continue as before for the whole round. Next round, knit a stitch, bring the silk forward, knit two stitches (the loop and that next it) together ; knit a stitch, bring the silk for- ward, and knit two together, until the bag is long enough. This bag looks well with a clasp, and a tassel at the bottom. MOSS-STITCH, TO MAKE A THICK BAG. Two needles are required. Moss-stitch can be done with any even number of stitches. Take off the first stitch, pass the cotton forward, rib a stitch, pass the cotton back, and knit one plain, pass it forward, rib a stitch, pass it back, and so on to the end of the row. In the second row, rib and knit alternate stitches. It may be knitted ei- ther with four or two needles. AND CKOTCHET WORK. DOUBLE KNITTING. 171 For double knitting, you may cast on any even number of stitches ; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, pass the thread back, knit a stitch, putting the thread twice round the needle. This repeated forms the pattern. You will find in the next row you take off the knitted stitch. Should you prefer beginning with a knitted stitch, pass the thread but once round the needle in every first stitch, as this will form a firmer edge. DOUBLE BLANKET This blanket is very light and warm. Two large wooden pins are required. It takes 2 pounds and a half of lambs' -wool to make one A feet wide, and 5 long. Put on 250 stitches, knit 10 simple rows ; then begin and end each row with 6 stitches in plain knitting ; the rest of the row is double knitting, putting the wool twice round the pin. The border is frequently made of a different color from the mid- dle ; in this case the two balls of wool are passed once round each other, so as to loop the wool every time. 172 KNITTING, NETTING, A gentleman's COMFORTER. DOUBLE KNITTING. Two coarse steel needles are necessary, and 5 skeim of fine knitting yarn. Cast on 72 stitches ; knit the first stitch putting the yarn only once round your needle, bring the yarn forward, slip a stitch, pass the yarn back again, knit a stitch, passing the yarn twice round the needle: continue knitting in double knitting with the yarn twice round the needle, until the comforter is long enough. In the last row, before you cast off, the yarn should be passed round the needle only once. Small comforters to cover the chest in riding are made in the same way. A COMFORTABLE COMFORTER. Cast on 50 stitches ; knit 44 turns plain knitting, decrease one stitch in five, until you have only 40 in the row ; knit 6 turns, then decrease again 10 stitches in the row; knit 18 turns, increase 10 stitches in the row ; knit 6 turns, increase 10 stitch-, es in the row ; knit 44 turns, and cast off. DOUBLE KNITTED SHAWL. Begin with one stitch ; increase a stitch ever/ other row, which will make one side slant ; knit plain knitting until you have 9 stitches, 7 of which are for the border; these are knitted in plain knit- AND CROTCHET WORK. 173 ang throughout; with the other stitches begin double knitting, as before. When your shawl is nearly large enough, knit a few rows of plain knit- ting to correspond with the border on the other side. DOUBLE KNITTED SHAWL, WITH COLORED BORDER. This shawl is knitted in precisely the same way as the one above, except that you begin with the color you mean to havr* for the border : when you have 7 stitches, you must pass the white round it and knit in the end. Every time you come to the border you pass the colored and white lambs'-w T ool round each other, thus looping them together. PINCUSHION COVER. LEAF PATTERN. This pattern is knitted with 4 needles JVb. 18. Cast 45 stitches on each of 3 needles (15 being required for each stripe). First round, begin with the cotton forward, purl 2 stitches, pass the cotton back, knit one, taking it at the back, purl 2, pass the cotton back, slip one stitch, knit one, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one ; knit 6 ; bring the cotton forward, knit one, this increases two loop-stitches ; repeat this all round. You will find you have increased one stitch in every 15. 2nd round; begin with the cotton forward, purl 2 stitches, knit one, taking it at the back, purl 2, slip one, knit one, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted 15* 174 KNITTING, NETTING, one, knit plain until you come to the next purled stitches, and continue as before. In this and every alternate round, no loop-stitches are to be made, but the purled stripes and the decrease to be done as before, which will reduce the stitches to the original number. Knit these rounds alternately, making the 2 holes (which occur in every alter- nate round) one stitch sooner each time, i. e. knit- ting 5, then 4, then 3, then 2, then one, instead of six stitches as mentioned in the first round. You will then have six rows of holes, which completes the leaf, and you will find the holes brought to the side of the stripe opposite to that on which they began ; you must then begin again as at first. Nine rounds of leaves complete a pincushion. KNITTED KETTLE HOLDER. In two colors; for instance, red and blue. Cast on 36 stitches with the red yarn, knit a row, then knit 6 stitches with the red and 6 with the blue alternately ; when you change the color, pull the yarn rather tight at the back of the other color, which will make the stitches stand up in a round when finished ; in the next row, every time you change the color of the yarn, you must bring that you have done with forward, and pass the other back. When you can count 4 ridges of blue oh the right side, make the red stitches to come over the blue, and the blue ones over the red : the side squares should be Vvptjlat; when big enough knit a row, cast off, and line it. AND CROTCHET WORK. 175 NETTED CURTAIN. Two meshes are required, one rather more than a quarter of an inch wide, the other rather more than three-quarters of an inch; your netting nee- dles must be large, and your cotton rather coarse. Begin with 350 stitches 3 net 20 rows with the small mesh \ then thread your needle with double cotton, and net a row with the wide mesh, netting 2 stitches in every stitch. Net a row with the small mesh, being careful to take the double stitch as only one, net another row with the small mesh, repeat the double stitch row with the large mesh, and begin again. N. B. One of the knitted fringes looks well with this curtain. NETTED SCARF. Three hundred and sixty stitches wide on a large mesh, net 12 rows ; then net 5 rows on a smaller mesh; then 12 on the large, and so on until it is wide enough. Sew it up and put tassels to it. N. B. It is three yards long. 176 KNITTING, NETTING, TREBLE DIAMOND NETTING, Is pretty lined with silk as a quilt, or to cover a ta- ble. The number of stitches depends on the size of the mesh, and the quantity required. It is al- so very pretty for a purse, d'oyley, or fish nap- kin* Begin with netting 3 stitches once round the pin or mesh, 1 twice round the pin, 3 once, 1 twice, and so on to the end of the row ; observing to end with 3 once round the pin. ^ Second row; 1 twice round the pin, 2 once round, slip them off the pin, and take the first stitch at full length ; net the long stitch you made the last row, and the next stitch long too, then 2 short stitch- es, slip them off your pin, and so on to the end of the row. 3rd row ; 1 stitch twice round the pin, 1 stitch once ; slip them off and take the first at its full length on again ; net the 2 next, then net 1 long, 1 short, slip it off; net the 2 next, then 1 long, 1 short, slip off, and so on to the end of the row. 4th row : 1 short stitch, 2 long, 2 short, to the end of the row. 5th row : 1 short, 1 twice round, 3 once round the pin ; 1 twice, 3 once to the end of the row. 6th row : 1 short, 2 long, 2 short to the end. 7th row: 1 long, 1 short, 1 long, 1 short, slip it off, 1 long, 1 short, 1 long, 1 short, slip it off (the other short stitches are close to the pin). 8th row : 3 close to the pin, 1 long, to the end; then begin with the first row again. * If made for a fish napkin or d'oyley, a fringe should be net* led round. AND CROTCHET WORK. 177 SINGLE DIAMOMD NETTING, First row : every other stitch twice round the pin. 2nd row : every alternate stitch is a loop- stitch. TUFT NETTING. In every other row in each alternate stitch, net 3 or 4 additional stitches, which are to be left loose, not being caught up with the stitch they are netted in, in netting the next row. NIGHT STOCKING. Four needles required. Fifty-four stitches on large pins, turning every every other stitch, and lessening a little gradually towards the end. ANOTHER NIGHT STOCKING Cast 18 stitches on each of three needles, and rib in threes as for a stocking, for about an inch. Then begin double knitting, by knitting the first stitch, pass the wool forward, and take off a stitch from the opposite needle, pass the wool back again, knit a stitch, putting your wool twice round the needle ; continue in the same way, until you have 178 KNITTING, NETTING, ■ got all your stitches on one needle, and continue common double knitting : cast off' when the stock- ing is long enough. N. B. It is less troublesome if before you begin the double knitting you get all your stitches on two pins. The yarn and needles should be coarse. TO KNIT A QUILT IN STRIPES. If a border be wished for, each stripe should be begun with the same number of rows, first of simple knitting, then of simple and ribbed knitting alter- nately ; the two side stripes should have a border to correspond with that at the bottom. TWISTED COLUMN QUILT. Care must be taken in casting on the stitches to have a number which can be divided by 8, without leaving any remainder. 3 needles are required (steel are best.) After knitting the rows for the border, begin by knitting 8 purled and 8 plain stitches to the end of the row : every alternate row is plain knitting. Repeat these rows 7 times, end- ing with a purled and plain row. The next row forms the twist ; knit the 8 plain stitches, then take off 4 on the third pin ; knit the 4 following stitches and then those you have taken off; knit the 8 plain stitches; take off 4 on the third pin, knit the 4 fol- lowing, then those you have taken off, and repeat AND CROTCHET WORK. 179 the same to the end of the row. Begin again. In joining the stripes together care must be taken that the patterns join well, and as cotton frequently shrinks in washing, it is advisable to make youi quilt rather larger than you wish it to be when finished. MOSS-STITCH FOR A QUILT. May be made any width. Take off the first stitch, pass the cotton forward, rib a stitch, pass the cotton back and knit 1 plain, pass it forward, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of the row. Every row is exactly the same. The same stitches you knit plain and rib in one row, you knit plain and rib in the next. IMITATION CORAL. Two steel needles No. 14 are required, and a skein oj coral-colored narrow worsted braid. Cast on 3 stitches \ take off the first, and kni* the other 2 in each row\ Every row is exactly the same. INSERTION. Cast on 9 stitches, take off a stitch, knit 2, cast aver and knit 2 together ; knit 1, cast over and knit 2 together; purl L Every row is the same 180 KNITTING, NETTING, GARTERS. Two needles No. 14, and German lambs'-wool Cast on 18 stitches. Knit in double knitting backwards and forwards until the garter 5s long enough. End with a point. RIBBED CEPHALINE. Two needles No. 10, 8 skeins of scarlet German lambs'-wool and 5 of white. Cast on 100 stitches. Knit 1 row ; rib 1 row, and continue to knit and rib one row alternately until you have done 9 rows without the casting on. Cut off the colored and fasten on the white wool Knit and rib one row alternately for 7 rows ; thus ending with one plain knitted row. Purl 2 rows with the colored wool. (These rows are both done with the colored wool to make the joining of the two colors neat on the right side.) Knit and rib alternate rows until you have 9 rows of the colored. Repeat these stripes of colored and white wool until you have 6 of colored and 5 of white. Cast off. Draw the ribs together, and sew on a string of satin ribbon at each end to tie under the chin. DOUBLE NETTING FOR A MITTEN Begin on the round foundation of 72 or 74 stitch- es. Mesh No. 13, and 2 netting needles threaded AND CROTCHET WORK. 181 with different colors, for instance, pink and black ; the silk should be very fine. Fasten on both nee- dles at once. Leave the black silk on your left hand and net one stitch with the pink, put the nee- dle down with your left hand,* net 1 stitch with the black. Continue this alternate netting throughout the mitten, always netting the pink stitches with pink and the black with black. When you have netted 4 rounds, net 1 round, putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 12 stitches and begin to increase for the thumb by netting 2 stitches in the 13th and 14th stitches, that is, first a pink, then a black in each ; net 6 stitches, increase as before, finish the round and continue to increase in the same manner over the last increase stitches every 4th round for 5 times. Net three rounds and join up the thumb stitches by netting round ; decrease by taking 2 stitches as 1, if necessary. Finish the thumb with two rounds of the black silk on a rather finer mesh. In the 1st round take two stitches as one. Join on at the bottom of the thumb : net till the mitten is nearly long enough, and finish it like the thumb. A round netted on at the top with double silk and a mesh about half an inch wide, makes a pretty fin- ish. Double netting is very pretty for a purse : a mesh of the same size as that for the mitten may be used, but the foundation should only be 60 stitches round. * Be very careful not to twist the two silks together: this you may avoid if you always observe to lay the needle you did the last stitch with beyond that you are to take Vip. 16 182 KNITTING, NETTING, PATTERNS FOR D'OYLEYS, BASKET, OR FISH NAPKINS, AND PURSES. No. 1. Begin with any even number of stitches. Net 2 rows as in single diamond netting, beginning with a stitch with the silk once round the mesh. 3rd row : 1st stitch, put the silk twice round the mesh, and, after passing the needle quite through the fin- ger loop (as in simple netting),, draw the stitch you are going to net on through the loop stitch of the last row but one, net it ; you will find the second stitch is also through the loop, net that too — putting the silk once round the mesh : repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 4th row : 1st stitch twice round the mesh, take it at full length, net the row, every other stitch is a loop stitch. 5th row is like the 3rd, with this exception, the 1st stitch is once round the mesh. No. 2. Any even number of stitches. Net 2 plain rows. 3rd row : pass the silk twice round the mesh every stitch, or take a mesh as large again as the first for this row : net the 1st stitch, miss a stitch, net 3 ad- ditional stitches in the next, miss a stitch, net 3 additional stitches in the next; miss a stitch, and net additional stitches to the end. 4th row : silk once round the mesh. Net the additional stitches as a stitch to make up for the stitch you missed last row. 5th row, plain netting. Begin again with the 3d row, taking care to place the added stitches over the missed stitch. AND CROTCHET WORK. 183 No. 3. Each repetition of the pattern requires 5 stitches : add as many as you please for the border, which is always netted plain. Net 3 stitches, increase 4 in each of the 2 next stitches (this makes the 5), begin again. 2nd row : net all the additional stitches with the stitch between them, the other stitches are plain netting. 3rd row, plain netting. 4th row : 2 plain stitches, 2 tufted stitches, 1 plain. 5th row like the 2nd. 6th plain. Begin again with the 1st. NETTED LAMBS'-WOOL SHAWL OR HANDKERCHIEF. The middle should be one color, the border plain or shaded; Two ounces of white wool, and half an ounce of colored, are required. Mesh No. 9 or 10. Begin with 8 stitches on a round foundation, or it looks rather neater if no foundation be used. In- crease a stitch in every other stitch (these increased stitches form the corners) for the 1st round ; after- wards increase 1 stitch in every corner stitch every round. When the shawl is large enough net the border, still increasing in the corner stitches. Fin- ish the shawl by netting a fringe round it, the color of the centre. NETTED SOFA TIDY. Begin on a foundation of 107 stitches on a mesh No. 8, and moderately coarse cotton. Net 1 row 184 KNITTING, NETTIrCtf, in the next row, instead of netting \he first stitch aa usual, draw out the mesh, and pull the cotton tight to the side of the stitch you are netting on. Every row is alike, and, as you diminish one stitch in each row, of course you end in a single stitch. Cut it oft the foundation, and (to make it square) fasten the cotton on at the 107 stitches : diminish as before, and when the square is completed, net a fringe round it. TO WORK THE BACKS OF NETTED MITTENS Pass the silk under the knot in the last row but one, either once or twice, as you prefer : in the next row net the 2 loops as 1 stitch. FEATHER MITS. These mits are very nice and ivarm to draw over long gloves in going to evening parties. Four needles No. 13, and German lambs'-wool are re- quired ; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half or a whole skein of wool. Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice; de- crease, taking 2 stitches together three times ; knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of the pattern, a -d is always plain knitting; decrease 3 times; in- crease 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round AND CROTCHET WORK. 185 Plain knit 3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern. CUFFS, PEACOCK STITCH. Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are required. Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round : Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2 stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat this last round until you have only 15 stitches between the purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together, repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edsre. 16* 186 KNITTING, NETTING, NETTED CUFFS. Four skeins of colored lambs 9 -wool and 6 of white y a steel pin JVb. 14, a flat wooden mesh half an inch wide, and a foundation of 120 stitches, are required. Net 2 rows of colored lambs'-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white lambs'-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2 white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number; net another row of colored wool,* 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c, until there are 7 rows of white, beside the first, with 2 rows of colored between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored. Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. GENTLEMEN S MUFFATEES. Two needles JVo. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs'-wool and 4 of white. Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2 stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every row is the same ; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish the muffatee with 1 skein ot colored wool ; sew it up. * The white rows are netted on the wide mesh, the colored en the small mesh. AND CROTCHET WORK. 187 These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the sleeve in very cold weather : they are then knitted with 3-ply fleecy, the first part done on large needles, the centre on smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again. A PENCE PURSE, OR JUG. Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambs' -wool of different colors are required. Begin with the handle ; cast on 4 stitches, and knit backwards and forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long ; loop 6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third (the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting 2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2, rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit the suc- ceeding stitches plain until within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2 ; on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately ; continue to repeat this round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2 alternately j take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner, then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round, making a stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color; 188 KNITTING, NETTING, knit a plain round ; in the next 2 rounds bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and 3 ribbed ; re- peat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4 needles (there should be 12 on each), begin plain knitting, decreasing 1 stitch on each needle; con- tinue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3 rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape; divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so, until you have only 3 stitches on each needle ; fasten off with a worsted needle, and sew down the handle. LADDER STITCH BAG. Two needles JVb. 12. Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately ; and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches : in the two following rows reverse the knitting and ribbing ; continue this pat- tern for 12 rows, and also for 10 stitches at the be- ginning and end of each row, to form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the next row (after the 10 stitches), knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over the 1st ; knit the 1st ; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the same to the end of the row : every row is alike. Continue this pattern until the bag is nearly long enough AND CROTCHET WORK. 189 Add a border as at first, and make the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon round the top. NETTED BAG, To hold the hall when knitting. These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors The mesh should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring (either brass or whalebone) ; then net on until the bag is sufficient- ly long. STRIPED PURSE. Mesh No. 17 ; foundation 12 stitches wide. Net 4 plain rows ; net 1 row, putting the silk tw T ice round the mesh ; in the next row net the 2nd stitch first (in netting it half turn it) ; then net the 1st in the same way ; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh ; then a row, netting the 2nd stitch first; and so on until the purse is wide enough. N. R This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and netted in shades of different colors. 190 KNITTING, NETTING; PURSE STITCH. Knit the 1st row (except the first and last stitch es, which are knitted plain in every row,) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next stitch, continue the same to the end of the row ; the 4th row is plain knitting. Begin again at the 1st row. BEAD NETTING. Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row : net to where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot, and net a stitch ; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and the next row will fix these in their places. BEAD NETTING, With the bead on the knot Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk ; net a plain row ; net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close to tha mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead un ier the mesh close up to the last knot, and pass your nee- dle and netting silk through the bead, which fixes it AND CROTCHET WORK. 191 on the knot ; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead. This netting may he done either round or open. DIAMOND KNITTING. For a Quilt Border. Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always plain knitting*. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from the border : your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row, knit the border stitches, and rib the rest ; every back row T is the same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches, decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue increasing and decreas- ing in the same manner until you have only 3 stitch- es between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the diamond, which you have made by increas- ing, and increase on each side before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pat* tern done to see how to proceed. Observe, that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond, you have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease the 192 KNITTING, NETTING, other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5. BORDER FOR A TABLE COVER. Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 taken to- gether, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but one stitch to knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in length, then cast off. This border, in crimson cotton or German lambs'- wool, is a nice finish to a dark cloth cover. BORDER AND FRINGE. In 2 colors; for a Table Cover or Shawl. Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the 1st, and con- tinue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2 stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the same to the end of the row T , and then begin AND CROTCHET WORK. 193 again at the 2nd row, only observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd. After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again. ^ When you have a sufficient length, cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for the fringe. LEGGINGS. Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs'-wool arc required. Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2 inches, knitting and ribbing 2 stitches alternately ; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row j when you have 60 stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you increased, until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to match the top. Sew them up. NIGHT-CAP. French Pattern. Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4, next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam (leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle. When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming, and knit round until t?ie 17 194 KNITTING, NETTINO, cap is three-fourths of a yard long : make the end like the beginning. LAMBS'-WOOL SLEEVE, Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches, ac- cording to the size of the sleeve wished for ; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser larabs'-wool, and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and finish by ribbin^ it again for about an inch and a half. baby's lambs'-wool cap. Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in double knitting ; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3 turns plain knitting, reducing the num- ber of stitches so as to form the crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part ot double knitting, and run a ribbon through it. BRIOCHE Oil MOORISH CUSHION. Choose any number of colored wools, or if pre- ferred, two that contrast well. Two needles No. 12. Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1 (by this you increase by a loop AND CROTCHET WORK., 195 stitch), bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1 ; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. ^ 2nd low: bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6 more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. ^ Continue to increase the number you slip and knit by 4 eyery time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit 8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these divisions will make the cushion large enough. The following succession of colors with dark stripes between, is very pretty ; green, lilac, yellow, blue, white, and scarlet. Sew it up at the side. Net a fringe with double coarse lambs'-wool to the narrow part, and run in a string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round cushion, and cover it with the knit- ting. SINGLE CROTCHET STITCH. Shades of German wool are the prettiest. With a good-sized ivory crotchet-needle, make a chain of 50 loops, place the first stitch behind the last, pass your needle through it, put your wool 196 KNITTING, NETTING, round your needle and pull it through both stitches ; this will join the two ends together, then pass your needle through the next stitch, catch the wool on your needle, pull it through the stitch and through the loop on your needle ; continue the same round and round, varying the shades, until your muffatee is two inches deep, then begin the following pat- tern : — Muffatee stitch. The only difference between this stitch and the previous one is, that instead of passing your needle through the upper edge or side of the stitch, you pass it through the under one. This is the stitch generally used for mittens, baby's shoes, gaiters, gloves, &c. Finish your muffatee with an equal depth of the first pattern. The beauty of crotchet work depends on its being done evenly, and the loops not drawn too tight. DOUBLE CROTCHET STITCH. Begin as in single crotchet ; when you have pulled the silk or wool through the foundation stitch, keep it on your needle so as to have two stitches, catch the silk at the back (without passing your needle through any loop or stitch), and pull the silk through both the stitches on your needle ; by this, you do two rounds at once. This stitch is very pretty for bags : the founda- tion should be a chain of from 80 to 120 stitches. AND CROTCHET WORK. 197 PLMN DOUBLE CROTCHET STITCH PURSE. Begin with a chain of 8 loops; crotchet round, increasing 1 stitch by making a chain stitch after each stitch; crotchet 1 round without increasing; continue to increase 8 stitches in every other round until you have 80 or 100 stitches according to the size of the netting silk ; no further increase will be required. If the purse is intended to be a long one, when you come to the opening you must crotchet back- wards and forwards in rows instead of rounds. To avoid losing 1 stitch in every row, you must make a chain stitch before beginning the row. The opposite end may be finished either square or round; if square, it should have a fringe; if round, you must decrease (which is done by miss- ing a loop) in the same proportion as you increased. OPEN CROTCHET PURSE. A steel needle and middling-sized silk are required. Make a chain of 8 stitches, and crotchet round, making a chain stitch after each stitch, until you have 32 stitches ; crochet 1 round without increase, then begin the open pattern as follows : Make 3 chain stitches, pass the needle through the next stitch of the foundation, crotchet it in double crotchet stitch; repeat this all round. In the future rounds make 5 chain stitches, and pass the needle through the centre stitch of the festoon. 17* 198 KNITTING, NETTING, gentleman's CAP Double crotchet stitch. This cap may be made either with German lambs'- wool or 3-%)ly fleecy. A coarse ivory crotchet needle is required ; the colors may be varied at the pleasure of the worker ; for brevity's sake only three are named : viz. dark brown, scarlet, and light green. Make a chain, rather longer than the circumfer- ence of the cap required, with brown wool, join the ends together as directed in double crotchet, stitch and crotchet 3 rounds. Prepare for working with the scarlet wool by fastening it on a few stitches before you want to use it in the following manner: — Place the wool along the first finger of the left hand, crotchet one brown stitch, passing the needle over the scarlet wool, in the next stitch pass it under, and proceed m this manner until you want it; then keep the brown out of sight in a similar way. Whenever you work with more than one color, this must be strictly attended to, or the color you are not using will hang in loops at the back of your work. Crotchet 3 brown and 2 scarlet stitches alternate ly for 3 rounds. Crochet 3 rounds of brown: fas- ten on the scarlet again for another stripe and make the spots green. Continue thus to vary the colori until the cap is about 6 inches long; then begin to decrease for the top of the cap by passing the nee- dle through 2 stitches at once after every 6 stitches for one round : then after every 5 stitches ; and so AND CROTCHET WORK. 199 on until you have very few stitches left. Fasten off with a cross stitch needle and sew on a tassel. Crotchet work may be done from any Berlin pat- tern. Pines are particularly pretty ; and clouded wools and silks work in very nicely SHOE AND STOCKING SOCKS. For holes, set up sixty-six stitches, (for the figure below 65). The ancles 36 rows deep (either ribbed like a stocking, or with the figure below), of which 5 rows of holes, 2 plain rows being between each row of holes. After the ancle commence 2 stripes of the figure for the instep, leaving the rest of the stitches on the other needle, without working. Work the instep the length of 9 complete figures, then leave that needle, and work the back of the sock with zephyr worsted, making 12 stitches at each end of the needle, for the straps. First 2 plain rows the whole breadth, then 2 rows inverted, then two plain rows, then a row of holes, then 2 plain rows, then 2 inverted, taking off 12 stitches at each end for the straps by slipping and binding. Then make the heel by 4 plain rows and 2 inverted alternately till the fourth plain stripe, when there should be 37 stitches ; at the first row of the stripe narrow 3 stitches each side of the centre stitch, then three more plain rows, then an inverted stripe, then narrow 2 stitches each side of the centre stitch, then 3 more plain rows, then put the stitches on 2 needles and slip and bind them together for the heel. Then take 50 stitches (or more) along the heel for 200 KNITTING, NETTING, the sole, then 2 plain rows, then narrow 1 stitch each side, and afterwards narrow every other row till each side 30 stitches remain. The first plain stripe 6 rows, all the others 4, and 2 inverted be- tween each. After the fourth inverted stripe com- mence knitting plain rows from the instep for the toe, knitting all around plain and inverted stripes alternately, till the first row of the fourth plain stripe of the toe, then at that first row narrow 1 every seventh stitch. At the next first row of the plain stripe, narrow 1 every sixth stitch — in the next every fifth — so on, 1 less each time, till there are 5 inverted stripes, then narrow every other row, at 1 stitch less between each time, till only 16 stitches remain, then divide on two needles, and slip and bind them together, finishing the sock. And sew up the sock each side on the wrong side. The Figure. 1st row — seam 2 stitches, slip one and bind, make 7 stitches, narrow 1. 2nd row — seam 2, knit 14, narrow 1. 3rd row — seam 2, slip and bind, knit 11, narrow 1. 4th row — seam 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow 1. Then commence again the same. ANOTHER TOP OF SOCKS. Knit 3 stitches, make 1, knit 1, narrow, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, narrow, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, narrow, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, narrow, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, narrow. AND CROTCHET WORK. 201 SOCKS WITHOUT SHOE AND STOCKING. Set up 60 stitches. 6 white rows increasing 1 stitch on the right side forming at the sixth white row 63 stitches. The beginning at the toe 1 red stitch, 5 white, 3 red, 3 white, 4 red, 2 white, 5 red, 1 white, making the first red stitch straight down. Then 4 rows of plain red w T orking right on both the right and wrong side and narrowing 1 stitch on each wrong side. Then four white the same. Then again 4 red the same. Then plain white row, without narrowing and on wrong side as if on right. Then the holes without narrowing. White one row taking 2 stitches and passing the third in front, then plain row on the right side, then another row of holes the same as above. Then one row plain red on the right side. Then a row plain red on the wrong as if on the right side, taking up a stitch in the middle of the red and knitting it at the toe. Then a plain row of red on the right side. Then on the wrong side as if on the right 26 stitches on 1 needle, then leave it at the heel side and with third needle the rest, and take up a row at the toe a second stitch red close on the white. Then a plain row white on the right side, then back again to the toe on the w T rong side as if on the right, and take up third stitch white at the white close to the red nearest to the needle. Then another plain row white on the right side, then back again to the toe on the wrong side as if on the right and take up a stitch white next to the red row furthest from the needle. Then a plain row on the 202 KNITTING, NETTING, right side, then back again on wrong as if on right side and take up a stitch red next to white. Then another plain row, then back again as if on right side, and take up another red stitch. Then a row on the right side 5 red 1 white. Then on the wrong side 4 red 2 white. Then a row 3 red and 3 w T hite. Then a row on red 5 white. Then 4 rows white right and wrong alternately. Then 4 rows on the right and wrong sides as if on the right. Then on the right side 1 row plain. Then a row of holes on the wrong side. Then 4 rows on right and wrong sides as if on the right. Then 4 rows right and wrong alternately. Then a row 1 stitch red 5 white be- ginning at the toe. Then 3 white, 3 red, then 4 red, 2 white, then 1 white and 5 red. Then 4 red rows right and w r rong as if on the right side, second and fourth rows narrowing at the toe. Then 4 rows white exactly the same. Then on the right side from the toe 1 row, red increasing at the heel 26 stitches. Then on the wrong side knit as if on the right and narrow at the toe. Then 2 rows as if on the right side and narrow at the toe. Then on the right 1 plain white row. Then holes on the wrong side, then a plain row on the right side, then a row of holes on the wrong side, then red on the right side, then on the wrong as if on the right and taking up a stitch at the toe in the middle of the red, then red on the right side, then on wrong as if right taking up a stitch. The same with white, second row taking up a stitch on white close to the red, and fourth take up 1 white close to the other red, then red as before and taking up red stitch just under beginning o* points. Then 5 red 1 white, tfien 4 red, 2 white, AND CROTCHET WORK. 203 then 3 red, 3 white, 1 red, 5 white, then six plain rows w r hite taking up at the heel one stitch each time Then slip and bind. Then for the ancle take up all the stitches on a line with those on the needle, put them all on 1 needle, making in all 72 stitches. Then work two plain rows white. Then on the right side as if on the wrong 1 row, then on the wrong as if on the right 1 row. Then 2 plain rows. Then on the right as if on the wrong, then on the wrong as if on the right. Then on the right side a row of holes. Then on the wrong side as if on the right, then on the right as if on the wrong. Then 3 plain row T s, then on the right as if on the wrong, then on the wrong as if on the right. Then on the right side begin holes 2 plain stitches, 3 holes, then go back plain on the wrong, and so on till ten rows of holes, then a plain row. Then red on the wrong side as if on the right, then on the right as if on tha wrong, then a double row of holes as in the foot. Then slip and bind. Then slip and bmd the 2 sides of the sole together. Then sew up the back and the toe. MITTS WITH THE FIGURE ON THE BACK OF THE HAND, AND HOLES INSIDE AND IN THE THUMB. Left Hand. Set up 72 stitches (or for a very small hand 66). 3 plain and 3 seam stitches for the wrist about 30 deep. In the thumb, first 3 in- creasing rows every other row, then every fifth, (that is 4 rows alike) till widened 25 rows. Take off 27 including seams. Make 11 stitches afterwards 204 KNITTING, NETTING, Then next row plain. Narrow twice, a plain row between. First row of holes in the hand after 1 plain row. First hole in the thumb at the plain row after the thumb is widened 5 stitches. Then 3 plain rows between each row of the holes. On the left hand 1 plain stitch between thumb and begin- ning of figure on the back of the hand. On the Right Hand corresponding stitch. After taking up thumb stitches, narrow thumb every time till 28 stitches remain. Length of thumb about 22 rows of holes. Length of mitt from the thumb to the end 12 rows of holes. PLAIN MITT. Set up 80 stitches. Between seams on the backs 9 stitches and 8 stitches, and 2 stitches for each seam except the seams for thumb. The rest as above ex- cept narrow thumb every other row and till 30 stitches remain. A PAIR OF GLOVES LARGE MEN'S SIZE . Purse Silk — 21 Skeins. Left Hand. Set up 104 stitches. The wrist with the figure as above. Depth of wrist, 8 com- plete figures. Width the same. Afterwards 1 plain row. Then 4 plain stitches, 1 inverted, widen 1, another inverted (for thumb), 14 plain, 2 inverted for seam stitches, 11 plain, 2 inverted, 10 plain, 2 AND CROTCHET WORK. 205 inverted, 12 plain, 2 inverted. Then plain till back again to the thumb. The first 6 increasing rows of the thumb every other row. Then increase only every fifth row till thumb increased 37 stitches wide. (The increasing made by making a stitch through the stitch next to the 2 inverted ones, widening be- tween the 2 inverted ones ; though the first in- creasing is by making a stitch of the loop each side of the plain stitch which is at the commencement of the thumb between the two inverted.) Then take off on a thread the 37 stitches with the 2 in- verted, instead of increasing again. When the thumb is 29 wide, knit the 4 stitches before the inverted and take the 39 off on a thread which tie. Then make 13 stitches next to the 4, then knit 4 more stitches on that needle. Then continue the round as before. Then knit another row. Then knit the 4 stitches before the thumb, then narrow 1 stitch, then knit the other stitches, narrow the one before the 4 after the thumb. Continue the row. Next row without narrowing. The next row narrow as before. Then about 23 rows without narrowing. Then for the little finger, after knitting the 2 inverted before the last seam take off 26 stitches on a thread (there being 12 each side of the last 2 inverted) then make 13 stitches, put 2 stitches on that needle, continue the row and leave off inverting there. Make 1 row plain. Then the first of the 13, and at the last of the narrow 13. The next row without narrowing. The next row narrow as before. Then 2 plain rows. Then after making second seam take off* 31 stitfches on a thread and make 13 stitches. 1 row plain. The next narrow between the fingers. 18 208 KNITTING, NETTING, Then plain row. Then narrow again. Next row plain. Then after the half of first seam take off 33 stitches (one of which being one of the inverted stitches). Then make 13. 1 row plain. Then at the 13 narrow as before. Then 1 row plain, then narrow again, then plain and so on till the finger is only 39 stitches, which divide equally on" three nee- dles. Then knit till nearly right length. Then at the second stitch of each needle narrow every other row till 8 stitches remain on each needle. Then narrow every row till 3 stitches on each needle, then finish it off by sewing them together, running the silk through each loop. Then the thumb — Take the stitches off the thread, and of those between the finger and thumb take up 18. Then begin to knit at back seam, put 2 stitches on needle after each seam — 2 rows plain — then narrow between the fin- gers next to the 2 stitches each side of the needle — next row plain— next narrow and so on till 42 stitches remain. When of right length finish off as before. For the other fingers — 1 plain row, then narrow be- tween the fingers in the same way ; making second finger 38 stitches wide. Third finger 36 wide, and little finger 33 stitches wide. For the Right Hand. The same, except after the wrist, commence the seam at the side of the hand first instead of those for the thumb, which will make it thus : after the 4 plain stitches, 2 inverted, then 12 plain, then 2 inverted, cLen 10 plain, 2 in- verted, then 11 plain, then 2 inverted, then 14 plain, then 1 inverted, then widen 1, 1 plain, widen an- other, 1 inverted to form the thumb. Then plain till the side seam again, and so on. AND CROTCHET WORK 207 N. B. Do not forget to continue the side seam all through the little fingers. After setting up, knit first 6 stitches with both ends of silk. For smaller hand set up 91 stitches. THE END HISTORICAL, THEOLOGICAL, JUVENILE, AND MISCELLANEOUS BOOKS, PUBLISHED BY J. & J. L. GIHON, NO. 98 CHESNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA, AND OFFERED TO BOOKSELLERS, SOUTHERN AND WESTERN MERCHANTS, NEWS AGENTS, PEDLERS, AND DEALERS GENERALLY, AT PRICES BUT LITTLE BEYOND THE COST OF MANUFACTURE. Rotteck's History of the World.— A General History of the World, from the Earliest Period, to the Year 1840, embracing an account of the Origin, and Manner?, and Customs of all the Na- tions of the Earth; the Rise and Progress of Judaism, Paganism, and Christianity, &c, &c. By Charles Ton Botteek, L.L. D, With a conti- nuation, containing an account of the various P evolutions and "Wars in all parts of the World, from 1340 to the Present Time. By Charlc3 J. Peterson. Four volumes in one, making more than 1700 large octavo pages, illustrated with twenty-eight highly finished Historical Engravings. Price $3.50, handsomely bound/ Frost's Pictorial History of America,— Remarkable Events in the History of America, from the Discovery to the Present Time. By John Frost, L.L. D. Embellished with 700 Engravings. 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With numerous additions, and more than six hundred Engravings. Complete in two imperial octavo volumes, of Sou pages each. Price, handsomely bound in sheep, only $5.00. Frost* s Pictorial Life of Washing-ton.— Pictorial Life of George Washington ; embracing a Complete History of the Seven Years' War ; the Revolutionary War ; the formation of the Federal Constitution ; and the Administration of Washington. By J. Frost t L.L.D. One elegant large Svo. volume, with upwards of one hundred Engravings, by Croome & Devereux. Price $3.00, handsomely bound White's History of the World.— A History of the World, on a New and Systematic Plan ; from the Earliest Period to the pre- sent time. By H. White. One volume octavo, illustrated with nu- merous elegant Engravings, and hound in arabesque morocco, gilt. Price $2.50. Peterson's History of the American Revolution. — By Charles J. Peterson. 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Lives of Great and Celebrated Characters.— Lives of Great and Celebrated Characters, of all Ages and Countries ; comprising Heroes, Conquerors, Statesmen, Authors, Artists, Extra- ordinary Humorists, Misers, Mountebanks, Kings, and Queens, Jugglers, and other Curiosities of Human Nature, compiled from authentic materials. One large octavo volume of 800 pages, illus- trated by several hundred Engravings, and beautifully bound. Price $2.50. The Heroic Women of History :— Comprising some of the most remarkable examples of Female Courage, Disinterestedness, and Self-Sacrifice of Ancient and Modern Times. By Henry C. Wat- son. 1 vol., 8vo., with plates.— $2.50. Pictorial History of Greece.— History of Ancient and Modern Greece. From the London Edition, published by the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge. With numerous additions. By John Frost, LL.D. One octavo volume, illustrated with numerous beautiful Engravings, from desigm by the most celebrated Artists. Strongly and neatly bound. Price $1.50. De Cormenin's History of the Popes. — A Complete History of the Popes of Ptome, from St. Peter, the first Bishop, to Pius the Ninth, the present Pope. Including the History of Saints, Martyrs, Fathers of the Church, Religious Orders, Cardinals, Inqui- sitions, Schisms, and the Great Reformers. By Louis Marie de Cor- menin. Complete in one large octavo volume, neatly bound, and ele- gantly illustrated. Price $2.50. Frost's Lives of Eminent Christians.— This work con- tacts the lives of one hundred and twenty-five persons of both sexes, remarkable for their Christian Piety and Philanthropic deeds — and as there is nothing in it of a Sectarian character, it is a suitable book for persons of every persuasion to read — a book that no Family should be without. The work contains 672 octavo pages, and is hand- somely bound, and illustrated with numerous Portraits. Price $2.50. 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