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 STE RL1 N G 
 AND FRAN CINE 
 
 C1ARR, 
 ART INSTITUTE 
 L1BRART 
 
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i 
 
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 i 
 
 * * 
 
 I,' 
 
 The- Ftfft being aji Experimental'Difcovery of all 
 
 VST xT° c U lv U! SecreCs in £?">§ Silk > Wool, Lianen and 
 • the Manufaaures thereof, as PfcOHrf mEnglwi i Y *nc* 
 
 ADifcourfeof Pot and VVeyd Aftes, as Weil as feveral other 
 Foreignjngcedieiits ufed in D Y I HG, 
 
 * M,ll *^ fc —™- fa — — — — 1 rrf mi ■ - 
 
 Written Originally- in the German Language 
 
 The Second Part is a General. Inffruftion for the 
 
 Dying of Wools and Woollen ManufaOures of all Colours ■ 
 
 alfo for the Dying of Hats ; Publifhed by the efpecial Coin 
 mand of rhe prefent Punch King in that tanWe S 
 fltafttttd with feveral Ghitafophfcal and ft&?K 
 rtons by th e G^wawTranflator. / * S "° ta " 
 
 (Both which ^are Faithfulf, ,-endred 1^1~^, 
 I • ■ fro m their Refpeftive Originals. 
 
 I 
 
 I«»fe:" Printed by WillUm p,. /- r 
 
 i, 
 

 
 
 ?At*t i 
 
 t 
 
 \ 
 
 
I 
 
 TO THE 
 
 READER- 
 
 H E Ingenious Reader is 
 hereby Invited to the peru- 
 fa I of two Books equally 
 Inftrutlive avid Advantagi- 
 ous. The firff Originally 
 Written in* the German Language^ is 
 the Refult of the long Experience of the 
 Bert Mafters of the Tintlorial Art at 
 Frankfort, Nurenberg, Leipzig, Er- 
 furt, Hamburg, Geneva and the Low 
 Countries; Co Heeled by the Diligent In- 
 quiries, and at the great Expence of a 
 Zealous Votary to Vhyfical and Experi- 
 mental Knowledge , who we are affured 
 purchafed moji of the following Re- 
 ceipts at a 'very dear Rate, from thofe 
 who valued themfelvei on being the Sole- 
 Mafters of them : By which Means the 
 Reader is cheaply obliged with the Selecl 
 Tratlical Secrets of fever al Nations, which 
 muff neceffarily furnifh abundant Hints for 
 the Improvement of the ufeful Art of Dying ; 
 and enable ; the Intelligent Mafier of it to 
 difcover why the Spanifh, Dutch, or any 
 
 A % 
 
To the Reader. 
 
 other Nation fhould be Tamed for Dying 
 any particular Colour better than our own. 
 
 The Second Tratt was Written and Pub- 
 lifhed in French by the efpecial Command 
 oftheprefent French King, and Comprizes 
 whatever could befuggefledby the bejt Judg- 
 es of that Nation appointed by their Sove- 
 reign to Confitlt together in order to corn- 
 pleat the Theory and Practice of this no 
 lefs Excellent than Neceffary Art : To 
 which purpose no ex pence or trouble was 
 thought too much. And indeed there is no 
 Jhadow of Reason why what is re ally found to 
 be the Inter eft of that Nation in this par- 
 ticular ; fkould not be unqueftionably deter- 
 mined to be ours ; ftnce our Soil is at leaFt as 
 capable of producing any of the mentioned ne- 
 ceffary Drugs , and if not more temperate, is 
 ft ill mere particularly appropriated to the 
 Culture of most of em than the Jo much boaft- 
 ed 'France. And if I am not miftakenjhoJeE- 
 nemies of the Englifli Nation, who as ma- 
 licioufly as unjujtly have deprived us of the 
 Talent of Invention, have never yet prefu- 
 medio difpute with us that of Improvement , 
 even in a Degree very much exalted above 
 that of our Neighbours. And as there are nu- 
 merous Inventions, too tedious to be recited 
 here, which a fhort Retrofpeclion gives us a 
 righr to lay claim to : So the particular lm* 
 provements which our Englifli Manual Ar- 
 
 tifts 
 
 v 
 
 \ 
 
 I 
 

 To the Reader. 
 
 tiJIs only have made to the Arts of Weaving, 
 Glafs-making, Iron, Steel, and all forts of 
 Metallick Works, Cabinet -making, Naval 
 Architecture, Watch- snaking, &c. are fo 
 Prodigious, that the Traveller who only 
 takes a view of the mofi finifhed pieces of 
 all other Nations, {not excepting even thofe 
 to whom we owe the Arts themf elves) if he 
 judges impartially mud really be fur prized 
 to find them fuch clumfy indigefied Lumps 
 as they appear, when compared with the per- 
 formances of our meaneff Artifls : It is this 
 which hath at once raifed the Envy, and 
 occajioned the fraudulent practices of other 
 Nations; who ly repeated vain Effayes fad- 
 ing themjelves unable to equal us,' are refol- 
 ved to revenge their pretended injury by 
 thebafefl deceit : Hence it is that not on. 
 h the Watch-makers of Geneva, but thofe 
 «/ trance as well as other Countries, make 
 bold with the Celebrated Names of Tom- 
 pion and Quare to put off their Worthless 
 Performances at a high Rate, which if „ 
 better paid for than they deferve, would for 
 ever remain in the Hands of their Makers 
 Norn this the only particular in which the 
 Enghfl, Artijl is injured abroad , F or 
 throughout Europe the betf Manufactures 
 
 g 'in, or fuch as are made in Imitation of 
 tbem, and Knavifhly fold as fuch to the 
 
 A 
 
 3 
 
 great 
 
To the Reader. 
 
 great Trejudice of the Ignorant Buyer. 
 If it be asked whence this Superemi- 
 nence proceeds ; I anfwer, That the Wife 
 Indulgence of our Conflitution, tenderly en- 
 courages Foreign Artifts to fettle y and conse- 
 quently drftribute their choiceft Secrets a- 
 mongtf us. their property being always firm- 
 ly Jecured to them^ and our Courts of Juftice 
 making no diftinclion betwixt a Native and 
 a Foreigner, but always confidering the 
 Caufe without the lea ft Refpett cfPerfons; 
 an Impartiality very rarely found in other 
 Nations. Bejides, I cannot help owning 
 that our Manual Artifts feem to be endowed 
 with a greater pare of Judgment or a bet- 
 ter TasJ than their Neighbours, to Evince 
 the Truth f and prove the Happy Effects of 
 vcbichjoavoidatediousEnuweration oj Par- 
 ticular S, the Traveller as well as the Mer* 
 chant is able to te(lify, that the? France for- 
 merly furnifhed us with Hats, Stuffs and 
 fevc.al other Manufactures, yet Paris itfelf 
 is obliged to own that they are at frejent 
 flocked with much better from England than 
 they can make at home. 
 
 Venice which not many Ages fince was ve- 
 ry Famous for fupplying all Parts not only of 
 Europe but of the whole World with its then 
 unparalleled Glafs, is now Content to buy it 
 of England. And whoever of late Tears 
 pretends to the makingof all Optic alGhffes 
 
 and 
 
 
 
 
 V 
 

 V 
 
 To the Reader. 
 
 and Mathematical Inftruments, it is out of 
 Mfpfe among*! Judges in what Country 
 the left are to be found. 
 I All which conftdered it would be as im- 
 pertinent as unneceffary to urge the undoubt- 
 ed Advantage which may accrue from a judi- 
 cious Comparifon of our own, with the Me- 
 thods of other Nations; face to that it is 
 to be prefumed we owe the greatest part of 
 the Excellencies which we can pretend tot 
 
 *TT f 7j,™ n , mt h ™ r J ""grateful to 
 toe tnglilh Workman, to have the Opportu- 
 nity here offered of comparing his own 
 Prance with the Theory and Pratlice of 
 all Europe befides. 
 
 The Tranflator defires the Candid peru- 
 Jer would not exped accuracy in Terms of 
 this Art, fince he freely owns his Igno- 
 rance tntt, and was only animated to this 
 under taking by the gre/t Character fome 
 Majler Dyers ^both French and Germans) 
 gave the Book which hath been Printed 
 in High Dutch as it is, three times within 
 this two 1ears,beftdes the latter part its ha- 
 ving beenfeveral times Printed alone. He 
 
 ms indeed unwilling that England fhould 
 tvantfo ufe f u i a Book . anJ hdi * ib 
 
 > t was not very eafy to find a Dyer which 
 
 7af?l 0t r GCrman ^French, or 
 had either letfure or opportunity, or per- 
 
 haps thought it worth his while to learn, 
 
 4 4 them 
 
To the Reader. 
 
 them, he therefore perfivjded h'mfelf that 
 an indifferent tranflation hing better than 
 none, he had a fort of right to he excufed 
 ly his Generous Country- wen, fmr whofe 
 Advantage he undertook this Difficult 
 Task. 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 ATreatife of Japanning* and Var- # 
 nifhing, being a Compleat Difco- 
 very of thofe Arts, with the beft way 
 of making all forts of Varnifti for Japan, 
 Wood, Prints or Pictures ; the Me- 
 thod of Guilding, Burnilhing, and 
 Lackering, with the Art of Guilding, 
 Separating, and Refining Metals, and 
 of Painting Mczzp>tinto - Prints, alfo 
 Rules for Counterfeiting Tortoife-ftiell, 
 and Marble, or for ftai ing or dying 
 Wood, Ivory and Horn : Together, 
 with above an Hundred diftinft Patterns 
 for Japan Work, in Imitation of the 
 Indians, for Tables, Stands, Frames, 
 Cabinets, Boxes, curioufly Engraven 
 on Twenty four large Copper-plates: 
 By George Parker, Varniftier and 
 Japanner, 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 ! 
 
 v 
 
A 
 
 TABLE 
 
 O R 
 
 ABRIDGMENT 
 
 OF |HE 
 
 Articles Contained 
 
 IN THIS 
 
 INSTRUCTION. 
 
 Firfl Part. 
 
 Article, I. 
 
 o 
 
 ,F the Five Principal, or Simple Co- 
 ' lours. 
 
 2. Which are Blew, Red, Yellow, 
 Brown and Black. 
 3. How the Stuffes ought to be prepared. 
 $. That they ought to be well cleanfed. 
 
 Sc* 
 
The T A B L E, 
 
 Second Fart, 
 
 8. Blew is compofed of Woad ; a flight fort of Woad 
 and Indigo mixed together, in Proportion as fol- 
 lows, viz. 6 pound of Indigo to every bail of 
 Woad. 
 
 o. Indigo ought to be prepared or corrected, being 
 alone a baftard Dye. 
 
 11. One pound of Indigo ought to be ufed, to a 
 hundred Weight of flight Woad. 
 
 12. Indian Wood Brafil and Orfeiile falfify the 
 
 Blew. 
 
 15. How to brighten and enliven Blew. 
 *5 Seven forts of good Reds. 
 
 16. Fren ch Scarlate. 
 
 17. Crimlon 
 
 18. Madder Red. 
 
 19. Half Grain. 
 
 20. Half Crimfon. 
 
 21. Kougede Naur at of Flocks, or the pale Orange 
 Colour. 
 
 22. Dutch Scarlate. 
 
 23. Brafil Red a baftard Dve. 
 
 24. Yellow, compofed of spanijh Broom, and Turme- 
 rick : Yellow Wood alfo yields another Yellow. 
 
 25 S&retie and Goniftrolle make alfo another fort of 
 - Yellow. 
 26. Brown is prepared from the Root,Bark and Leaves 
 
 of the Wattnut-tree and the Nut-fhells : Soot ufed 
 
 for Phillamorts and Ox-Colour. 
 QvromUs for Rat Grey. 
 1%. Trentanel, Malherbe and Soot forbidden. 
 29. Black Dye compofed of Galls, Sumach , Radouljo- 
 
 vic .— Coperas, Indian Wood, Yellow Wood and 
 
 Verdigreafe. 
 50. Cutlers duft, filings of Iron or, Copper, abfolute- 
 
 ly forbidden in Black, and all other Dyes of Wools 
 
 and Stuffs. 
 ji, Indian Wood — forbidden in boiled Stuffs, and 
 
 OifeiUe permitted iti fome Colours of low-pri- 
 i Stuffes. 
 
 Third 
 
 v_ 
 
 
The T ABLE, 
 
 Third Part, 
 
 32. Mixture or fortment of Colours. 
 
 33. - - _ — f Blew. 
 
 34* From the 7 forts of Red fourniixt Dyes aloes 
 can be made. 
 
 35. Mixture of Madder Red. 
 
 36. - of Crimfon. 
 
 37 of Pale Orange or flock Redo 
 
 38. - of Dutch Scarlate. 
 
 39. . . . — f Brafil forbidden. 
 
 41. „- of Yellow. 
 
 42. Brown allows of no Mixture. 
 
 43. Grey a Mixture of Black. 
 
 Fourth Part. 
 
 45. WhataCompoutd Dye is. 
 
 46. Blew and French Scarlate. 
 
 47. Blew and Crimfon. 
 
 48. Wild Cochineal. 
 
 49. Mixture of Blew and Madder Red, 
 
 50. ----- of Blew and half grain. 
 51. Blew and half Crimfon. 
 
 52* Blew and Pale Orange or Flock-Red. 
 
 53, Blew and Dutch Scarlate. 
 
 55.- Blew and Yellow Green. 
 
 56. Blew and Brown. 
 
 57. Blew and Grey. 
 
 58. Red and Yellow. 
 
 60. Several other Mixtures and Compofitions not 
 mentioned, becaufenotin ufe. 
 
 62. Red and Brown. 
 
 63. Yellow and Brown: 
 
 64. Yellow and Grey. 
 
 65. Green and Olive Brown. 
 
 66. Dyes Compounded of 3 or 4 colours. 
 
 Fifth Tart. 
 
 4j. Art of Dying ought to be divided into two 
 parts, viz. the Great or Good Dye, and the ieffer 
 
 Dye 
 
■1 
 
 
 The T A B L E. 
 
 Dye ; the former ought to begin, and the latter 
 to finifh Blacks. 
 
 68. The necefftty of thisDivifion. 
 
 69. To hinder the falsification of Dyes. 
 
 70 By the mutual infpe&ion of the one over the 0- 
 
 ther. 
 71. Goods and Colours which ought to be Dyed by 
 
 the great Dye: 
 74. Goods and Colours which ought to be Dyed by 
 
 the lefler Dyers. 
 76. 0rfeiDe and Blew for Violet Dyes in flight Stuffes. 
 Jo. The two forts of Dyers ought not to incroach 
 
 upon one another. 
 Si. Nor the Dealers deliver Stuffs which ought to. 
 
 be Dyed by the Great Dye, to the leffcr Dyers, 
 
 82. What ought to be done in Towns where there 
 is but one Dyer. 
 
 83. 'T is neceffary to have two Dyers in every Town. 
 84,. Apprentifage and Service with Mafters of the 
 
 good Dye, 
 $5. Mafter peices of the Good Dye. Good Dyers 
 Widow, Son, Daughter ,what Priviledges belong to 
 
 'em. 
 ^6. Apprentifhip, Service, Mafter-piece neceffary to 
 the lefler Dyers : Widows and Children of the 
 
 lefler Dyers. 
 
 87. Apprentice or Journeyman robbing his Mafter 
 incapacitated for ever being Mafter, and punifh- 
 ed if he works clandeftjnely for his own advan- 
 tage. 
 
 SB. None but Mafters of the Great and lefler Dye 
 allowed to Dye or redye. Hatters may Dye their 
 Hatts, and Clothiers their Wools for mixture with 
 only a Walnut-tree Dye. 
 
 Sixth Part 
 
 $9. Of the Dying of Wools for Tapiftris. 
 
 90 . Wools for Tapiftry may be Dyed by both 
 
 Dyers. 
 92. Dyers of Wool for Tapiftries, may alfo Dye 
 
 Stuffes in places where there is no other Dyer. 
 
 95. Art 
 
 
 B> 
 
The TAB! E 
 
 93. Art of Dying at Horn divided into Woader, 
 Madderers and Black Dyers. 
 
 94. May be left as it is. 
 
 95. Or reduced into greater or leffer Dyers by the 
 Company. 
 
 99. The leffer Dyers ought not to receive Stuffes 
 nor Colours belonging to the Greater Dye. 
 
 100. The Lead or Mark neceffary to every Dyer. 
 Mark of the good Dye. 
 
 101. Mark of the leffer Dye: 
 
 103. Lead or Mark of the Hall or Court of infpe- 
 ction. 
 
 104. Stuffes illegally Dyed, or lead Marked, or Rofe 
 Marked, to be feized. 
 
 10$. Mark after the Dying. 
 
 106. Seiz'd pieces ought to be marked or Sealed. 
 
 i©7. Neceffity and forts of Rofe Marks, for all forts 
 
 of Colours of the Good Dye. 
 108. General Rofe Mark of the Good Dye 
 no. Stuffes without rofe Marks a fign of the leffer 
 
 Dye. 
 
 in The leffer Dyer ought to prefer ve the Marks 
 of the Greater Dye. 
 
 112. Mafter Proof pieces or Patterns of every fort of 
 Ground of Good Dying ought to be kept in the 
 Hall. 
 
 Seventh Fart, 
 
 114. Non-Dying Drugs for the Good Dye. 
 
 1 16. Non-Dying Drugs for the leffer Dye. 
 
 117. Dying Drugs of the Good Dye 
 
 US. Ought tobe forbidden in the leffer Dye 
 
 1 19. Drugs which ought to be common to both 
 
 Dyers. 
 120.* Drugs proper to the leffer Dye. 
 
 l2u ?/ u SP r0hibitedin Dvinga!l forts of Woof 
 and Stuffes. wut 
 
 ll 2 S^^ich the Dyers ought to keep. 
 123. Hall Books or Regifter. F 
 
 1 25. Vifited by the Dyers. 
 12$. And regiitred by the fworn Dyers or Jury. 
 
 Eighth 
 

 The TABL E; 
 
 Eighth Vart. 
 
 127 Non-Dying Drugs allowed to the Good Dye. 
 128.' Three non-colouring Ingredients which alter 
 
 the eoodnefs of the Dye, why permitted. 
 120. Woad. flight Woad, Chermes Berries, Co- 
 
 chineal, Madder and other Drugs proper to Good 
 
 Dying, why allowed. 
 1 qe. Turmerick, why permitted. 
 131. Indigo, why and how allowed. 
 
 ]{]'. Root!°Leaves, Bark of the Wallnuttree and 
 ftells of the Nutts, Galls, Sumach, Fovu PMoul, 
 m and Coperas ; why allowed. 
 
 124. Garouille' , _ _ , 
 
 155. Indian Wood why permitted in fome Colours 
 
 \nd prohibited in others. 
 
 136. Or Mile why and how permitted. 
 
 137. Of Alder Bark. 
 ioS Of VerdisireaTe. 
 
 129. Trentanel, Malherbe, Fuftel and Yellow 
 
 140 Of Cutlers and Smiths duft, filings of Iron 
 and Copper, and Turnfole, abfolutely robidden. 
 141. OfGromel 
 
 Of Rocourt. 
 
 Of Wild Saffron. 
 
 Brafil Wood prohibited. 
 
 OrieiBe why rather allowed than Brafil. 
 
 Blew Red and Yellow Colours of the Good 
 
 142. 
 
 143- 
 144. 
 145. 
 
 147. 
 
 14.8 Brown and Black Dyes of the greater and lef- 
 
 fer Dye to be differently dyed by both Dyers. 
 149. Why and how. 
 i<o. General Reafons. , 
 
 151. Againft the Brafil Dye in Wools for Mix- 
 ture. 
 
 152. Of Fuftel and Yellow Wood. 
 
 153. Beavor Black fufpicious. . 
 
 154. Advantage an Artift may reap by difcovenng 
 
 a Secret. -.. * 
 
 155. Th£ 
 
m 
 
 The TABLE. 
 
 155. The fame with refpeft to ftrangers. Thefecret 
 ought not to remain in one Perfons breafr alone. 
 French ought to be preferred to Strangers. 
 
 i$6. The Commodities or inconveniency of particu- 
 lar Towns or Provinces ought to contribute to 
 the General Rule of Good Dying. % 
 
 M7- Impertinent Petitioners ought to be pu- 
 
 nifhed- r 
 
 Ninth Fart. 
 
 t<>9. The Black Dye of Stuffjs of great Impor- 
 tance. ° r 
 
 160. Black of high-prized StufFes ought to be Mad- 
 dered and why. 
 
 165. Maddcrcd Black the beft, fineft and wholfomeU 
 in tine bturres. 
 
 166 Sharp and corofive Drugs hinder the lairing 
 of StufFes 5 a very little Allom cannot do any hur? 
 in very fine StufFes. * 
 
 167 The Black Dye well appfyed doth not fcorten 
 the duration of the StufFes. a 
 
 168.^ Allom difpofes the StufFes to take a brighter 
 
 169 VVoad and Madder in Black Dyes prevent the 
 ufmg too much Coperas. prevent enc 
 
 170. The Red of Madder as eafy to furmount a* 
 theluftreo^ Blew a flifted by more cod 
 
 17 Madltd f ° r ^^ ° USh£ £ ° be Woad ** «* not 
 I7 fo t^to^^ " «* Wools ought 
 
 iltf Of°w G ^ U ? df0r . low F™** StufFes. 
 Wo?is. W ° 0h f ° r mmure » Ca ^ Stockins, fpun 
 
 ^v™> or woaditf Madder Ground prefc, 
 
 188. Ms-- 
 
 ^ 
 

 The TABLE. 
 
 ISSSSSK^^W^ Ground 
 
 1 oushtairow have* good Black and how 
 
 , 9 o Stuffes ought to have room enough » the 
 
 ,o?°&oughttobe well wafhed as well from 
 'the Woad as 8 the Black, that they may not fo.l 
 
 ^"The quantities of Drugs for Black ought to 
 be regulated betwixt the, greater and leffer Dyers, 
 and vifited at the leffer Dyers. 
 
 194. Mafter Patterns of every fort ot Black to oe 
 
 kept in every Hall. 
 
 Tenth Part. 
 
 ■c< The four nrft principal Colours compared to 
 '^he Four U Elements P and the Black to.N.ght and 
 
 !wh ir nuttina an end to all Faults m dyes. 
 I9 f OtfS^ flours may be changed wh, and 
 
 , 9 h 7 ° The fecond Ground ought to be given accord- 
 
 jK^o^To^ Colours ought not to be 
 
 „jSaS"««& have been *« dyed 
 with Corrofive Drugsi 
 
 200. Their proper Black. 
 
 201. OfVerdigreafe. 
 
 203. Black Stuffes ill Dyed now cured 
 
 204 Wooden Fatts better than Copper, for BlacKs 
 that require a long time in Dying, 
 
 205 How Black W.0V1S for Mixture are fpoilcd. 
 
 2l 7! l Tny S m anner of Dying that is particular if 
 
 Good, ou- 6 ht to be allowed. 
 2iSs. Of coarfe Wools and (light Stuftes. 
 2l9 . The meaning of the Words, Woading, Galling 
 
 and Walnut-tree Dye. 
 mo. Of Proof Suds. Rofe 
 
The TABLE. 
 
 221. Rofe marks a clearer Proof than the Proof 
 Suds. 
 
 222. How to make the Proof Suds. 
 
 227. Mafter Patterns ought to be boiled with the 
 
 fufpe&ed Patterns. 
 22S. Proof Suds to examine the finifliins; of 
 
 Blacks. a 
 
 231. . For Blew. 
 
 232. — - . For Crimfon. 
 233. for other Colours. 
 
 234. Verification of Patterns by half Proof Suds 
 neceffary. 
 
 235. Proof Suds for mixed Stuffes. 
 
 Eleventh Part. 
 
 236. Dying of Thread, Silk, neceffary mark for 
 t»rimfon. 
 
 237. ^— . For Silks. 
 228 For Stuffes. 
 
 239. Pale Blews. 
 
 240. The making and Dying of Hatts, ought to 
 be regulated ; the 111 Dying of Hatts tranfports 
 great quantities of Money out of France. 
 
 241. General means to remedy it. 
 
 24 Hat!s he fifft Bl3Ck f ° r thC g °° d Black D ? e «* 
 
 244. The fecond Black. 
 
 245. The third Black. 
 
 247 Coarfe Hatts ought to have but one tnidline - 
 and the fine three Black dyes. *K"«>gi> 
 
 248. Softning and rebate. • 
 249- Woading for Hatts. 
 251. Marks for Hatts after examined. 
 
 Ill' ISSHhj ? tt0 .. bc kcpt at thc Hatters Hall. 
 254. Proof Suds for the Black of Hatts. 
 
 Twelfth Fart. 
 
 2 *trS?° d drugs that S row in F ™«, which are 
 neceffary to produce good Colours. 
 
 S*-) 
 
 257 Drugs 
 
The T A B L E. 
 
 c T^nnc of Wools growing in fratee. 
 i57 . Dr«gs for Vy*l*™ | he pr ^d uc ing of 
 , 5 8. Mm very "^poiea know the caufc of 
 
 ingred.ents tor Dyi«& l f e rc . eftablin& th ; ngs as 
 
 their faults, nor the way *» 
 
 2 jf&Nte Woad which grows in X^^ foar 
 
 J^&%*g&£** fiIth never ' 
 
 ,61. Woad ought to be well dryed. 
 
 262. Woad in Loaves. readvtobe made 
 
 ,63. Woad in Powder, »ts cur.ng, ^ ^ ^ 
 
 ^rO^eSwto-haveaiwaysthebeft. j 
 
 ^KTSiwSU* noxious to Woad. 
 
 S- ^ e c ^ c ^XfimU two,n 
 
 ^^-J L ^3p--n-g 
 
 a due ftrength and Subftancc to vv ^ 
 
 Millet and Tobacco win ; ftro V^ e of Woad . 
 
 ^TheBuyer.SeUetandtherublick cheated by 
 
 ^fReguiar atteftation, will juftly inform us of 
 the Goodnefs of Woad. f the 
 
 o 7 6 Tho 1 Woad be weak us always one 
 
 277 eft To V r e :-eftabli(h the Culture of Woad, 'tis ne- 
 
 ceffar, to prevent all Wauds. ft 
 
 „« A Commiffary and Attemoiy 01 
 
 ^intelligent in every Diocefs necefTary to draw up 
 
 proper Statutes. ^ Su . 
 
The TABLE. 
 
 *79. Supravifors in every Parifh and their Duty, 
 2 So. Supravifors to keep Regifters. 
 
 281. Account of the Woad in Loaves. 
 
 282. Of the Eflayes. 
 
 283. «*. Of the Matter Weighers and Bailers. 
 
 284. Private Intereft prevails over Publick Orders 
 for prohibiting of Foreign Indigo. 
 
 28$ Negligence of the Culture and curing of Woad 
 hath as much contributed to the demand falling 
 off as Indigo. 
 
 286. Commiflaries ncceffary and why. 
 
 287. Of the flight Woad, 'tis a Species of the 
 other. 
 
 288. France tho' Fertile and Abounding with People, 
 yet it is not well Cultivated, nor its People em- 
 ployed, 
 
 289. Madder may be Cultivated in moft places in 
 France. 
 
 290. Above 500000 Livers expended annually in 
 buying of Madder. 
 
 291. Ot Madder. 
 
 292. Its Culture. 
 
 293. Sowed in the Wane .of the Moon and well 
 Weeded. 
 
 294. The firft Madder plucked up 18 Months after 
 'tis planted the firft time, and after that Annually 
 for eight or ten Years. Lands rendred more Fer- 
 tile by planting Woad or Madder, 
 
 295. Madder may be planted with the Plant its 
 felf. 
 
 296 Madder after Dryed, Ground and put into 
 Sacks. 
 
 297. Perfons and Lands proper to Cultivate Mad- 
 der. 
 
 298. Baftardifed Madder, the buying and ufing it 
 ought to be forbidden. 
 
 299. Of .S.panifi Broom. 
 
 300. Of thefeveral parts of Walnut-tree. 
 
 301. Of Chermes Berries. 
 
 302. Of Antient Purple or Fhcevician Scarlate. 
 
 303. French Scarlate more Beautiful than the An- 
 cient. 
 
 304. Dutch Scarlate apt to fpot. 
 
 "5"> t 
 
 5 T 
 
 n 
 
 V9 
 
The TABLE. 
 
 30$ . How to Re-eftablifh French Scarlate. 
 306. Of Saretee, GcmftroUe, Koioul and Fovic. 
 
 308. Of Tartar, Verdigreafe, boil'd Allies and 
 Tartar Afhes. 
 
 309. prance produces Minerals for Dying. 
 
 310. The Activity of the French contrary to difcove- 
 riesorlong winded Works. 
 
 311. Of French Allom. 
 
 312. Of French Vitriol. 
 
 313. Minerals never extracted out of the Mine per- 
 fectly pure. 
 
 314. How to difcover and work Mines in France. 
 
 315. Of Caffenotie Alder Bark, Fuftel, Md* 
 
 berbe, Trevtanel, and OrfeiUe, 
 
 316. L'OrcheUe or LurfoUe of the Canaries, the fame 
 thing with French OrfeiSe. 
 
 317. Concluftonof this Inftru&ion. 
 
 FJNI S. 
 
 
 Errata.] Pag. 49. /. 17. fir Tallow, r. Spelter, 
 
 &*V 
 
A 
 
 Perfeft Difcovery, 
 
 O F T H E 
 
 ART 
 
 OfDYING 
 
 Part I. 
 
 Of Silk Dying. 
 
 Of the Preparation of Raw Silk. 
 
 F">Or every Pound of Raw Silk, take 
 ! J..?* ? P °™d of Sope } firft put the 
 silk into a Bag, or fo make it up,that 
 
 ^ - 1 K \ tan g" n g "iay be prevented. 
 
 After &&* Ml i°r^ T for ** Ho «^ 
 Alter which it niuft be very well cleanfed 
 
 lours £ 1S r fte D ^ e0f a11 forts of 5 
 tours, being foil A Homed. 
 
 r* 
 
2 The Art of Vying. 
 
 To Prepare Raw Silk. 
 
 1-Or every Pound of Raw Silk take I 
 F of Green or Black Sope with which i 
 riieSilk muftbe very well and thoroughly 
 S ptt it into a Linnen Bag, and 
 Set it &U fot fix Hours. After which, 
 Se ouV tSe°Bag and let the Silk cool that 
 h may the better be Handled 5 henR nee 
 ;t in a River or running Water ror ^ 01 
 an Hour Beat the Water out very well 
 a n „drinceitagain, rhendryit, aodu g«£ 
 t^ nve This Preparation is absolutely ne 
 ceffary to all Raw Silks, before they can 
 he Dyed. 
 
 How the boiled Silk ?»«/? be Allomed. 
 
 TN Proportion to every Pound of Silk 
 1 take? of a Pound of Allom, melt it in a 
 little Kettle or Skillet, and when melted, 
 throw it into a Tub of Water, into which 
 put the Silk to fteep where let it he a 
 whole Night. The juft Proper non of Silk 
 and Allom abovementioned, mult be care 
 fully obferved. 
 
 Of Red Silk Dying. 
 How to make the Preparatory Liqnor or Suds 
 wherein the Silk mvji he fieefi before it be 
 Dyed Crimfo'n. 
 
 X?Or every Pound of Silk, take four Hand- 
 f fuls of Wheat-bran, put it into the 
 
 quan- 
 
 *V 
 
The Art of Vying. $ 
 
 quantity of about two Pails of Water ^ firft 
 boil them, then put the Liquor into a Tub, 
 letting it ftand a whole Night, clarifie it, 
 and take half of the Water, into which 
 put^ Pound of Allom, \ of a Pound of 
 TartaPof Red Wine, beaten to an impalpable 
 Powder ^ and \ an Ounce of Turmerick alfb 
 beaten to a fine Powder ^ let them boil toge- 
 ther for a quarter of an Hour, itirring them 
 very well * then take the Kettle off the Fire, 
 and immediately put in the Silk, covering 
 the Kettle very dole, that none of the Steam 
 may Evaporate •, let it ftand for three Hours, 
 after which Rince the Silk very well in cold 
 Water, then beat itvery well upona Block, 
 and let it dry. After which take£ of a 
 Pound of Galls, beat them fmall, put 
 them into a Pail of running River or Rain 
 Water, boil them a full Hour, take the 
 Kettle off the Fire, and when it is become 
 juft cool enough for your Hand to bear it, 
 put in the Silk, where let it remain an Hour, 
 then take it out and dry it. 
 
 To Dye Silk of a Crimfon Colour. 
 
 TAkethe foaked or Prepared Silk, and 
 for every Pound thereof,weigh out one 
 Ounce and a half of Cochineal, which beat 
 to Powder, and pafs it thro' a Hair 
 Sieve ^ put it into the remaining Pail of Li- 
 quor laft mentioned, hang it over the Fire 
 again, then with the Liquor put it into a 
 Brafs Kettle, covering it very clofe that no 
 duft get in. hang it over the Fire again,> 
 
 B 2 and 
 
 i 
 
^ 
 
 A 
 
 A The Art of Vying. 
 
 ^ aa „„,. Ounce and a half of White 
 
 ? d r 1 Z wo Ounces and a half of 
 
 ^Safhoth beTten to a fine Powder, let 
 
 it? ■ wither for a quarter of an Hour, 
 
 ariega ed when the Liquor is cold, wring 
 the Ik out, and if it is not tinged enough 
 ha n g the Dye over the Fire again and put 
 ?n the Snk after 'tis beaten, as before. Alter 
 the Silk is Dyed, it mull be nnced firft in 
 Hot Sud made of Watered \ an Ounce o 
 Venice Sope, in pro portion to every Pou nd 
 of Silk diffolvedinit; and afterwards in 
 
 mH hans it to dry, upon which being ipread 
 £d 'wound a'nd U aged -cording to 
 Cuftom, it becomes of a very good Cnmfoa . 
 If'vou would Dye Cnmfon from a Violet 
 G%£ a third' part of the Quantity J 
 the- Ingredients may always be abated , 
 that s a Pound ol Silk ft grounded, » 
 qdirerbutanOunceof Cochineal asmuch 
 of Arfenick, and two Ounces of Tartar. 
 
 A Cochbml Crimfon Dye. 
 
 Fter the Silk is well boiled or prepared, 
 - v o every Pound of Silk, take Eight 
 Ounces of Crude AUorn, and after thai : is 
 diffolved, lav the Silk in the Liquor for the 
 fpace of one'Night ; next Day let it be ve- 
 ry well rinced, and afterwards Dyed as 
 follows, irc. Take a Kettle of lair Wate*, 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 *■ 
 
The Art of Bying. 7 
 
 A Blood Colour. 
 
 AFter the Silk hath been foaked, as a- 
 jbove directed, take to each round of 
 it, r a Pound of Allom,a quarter of a Pound 
 of Tartar, both pounded fmall, and boil 
 them in the quantity of a Pail full of the 
 Preparatory Liquor, a quarter of an Hour • 
 then put in the Silk, letting it continue here 
 two Hours,after which rince it and beat it up- 
 on the Block, then hang it out and let it dry. 
 This done put into the quantity of a Pail of 
 Water, a quarter of a Pound of poude- 
 red Galls ^ let it on the Fire, and when it is 
 become fb warm that you can juft bear 
 your Hand in it, put the filk in, where let it 
 remain two Hours y after which take it out 
 and dry it. All whicji done, take one 
 Pound and half of good Brafil, and feme 
 Wheat-Bran Water,put the Brafil in a LflttcrM* 
 Bag,and that with the Water into a Kettle 
 ver 5 em clole,boy l'em together,take the Kettle 
 off the Fire and let it ftand a whole Night $ 
 then put in a quarter of an Ounce of rot- 
 ates and boil it again for an Hour, then 
 pour on as much River Water as the Liquor. 
 Take out the Bag of Brafil and put in the Silk 
 when 'tis a little Hummed ^ cover the Chal- 
 dron very clofe,letting it remain there half an 
 Hour, then wring it out, rince it clear in Ri- 
 ver Water, wring it out again, and let it drj% 
 and if it be not enough dyed, boil the Dye 
 again and put in the Silk once more and 
 clean it with Sope, as in theCrimfon Dye, 
 
 8 4 3 
 
8 The Art of Dying. 
 
 and then rince it in River Water, and you 
 will have a beautiful Red. 
 
 Madder-Red. 
 Tl)e Preparatory Liquor made as for the Crimfon. 
 
 PUt half a Pound of Madder into the 
 quantity of a Pail of River Water, 
 boil it a full Hour, and take particular 
 Care that it doth not boil over h decant it 
 into a Fat, adding half an Ounce of Tur- 
 merick, and ftirring it about with the Silk -, 
 when it is cold put in the Silk, and when 
 you take them out, rince them very well 
 and beat them upon the Block h then take 
 half a Pound of good Brafil Wood, and 
 boil in about a Pail full of the Preparatory 
 Liquor, a full half Hour, then pour it off 
 into a Fat, into which put the Silk, and 
 ^ft^cleanfe or fcour it as with Sope, then 
 **r« it in River Water, &c. according to 
 Art. 
 
 Another Madder Red, 
 
 CLean the Kettle very well and put into 
 it clean Rain-water, and the Silk be- 
 ing firit Allomcd and prepared as above, 
 to every Pound of Siik, take one Pound of 
 Madder, four Ounces of Galls, and put 
 them with the Silk into the Suds, not fu&er- 
 ing it to boil h and after- it hath remained half 
 an Hour in the mentioned Liquor, rince it, 
 beat it and hang it upon the Sticks $ than 
 rince it in a Tub of cold Water with a few 
 
 Pot- 
 
The Art of Dying. $ 
 
 Pot-afhes^ and if the Dye is finifhed, rince 
 itanddiyit. 
 
 Firs Colour. 
 
 *YO one Pound of Allomed Silk, take 
 half a .Pound of Brafil, tye it up in 
 a Bag and lay it in Liquor for half an 
 Hour, when take it out and put in an Ounce 
 of beaten Turmerick 5 let the Dye diflolve, 
 and when it is cold take out the Silk and 
 put the Bag in ?gain, with fome Lye, boil it 
 alio again ^ then take out the Bag and put 
 in the Silk, leaving it in till it's cold, then 
 rince and dry it. 
 
 FUJb Colour or Incaynydin. 
 
 JfO every Pound of Silk, take a quarter 
 of a Pound of Brafil, let it boil ^ 
 pais it through a Sieve and pour frefh cold 
 Water upon it : While it is warm put in the 
 Silk, moving it about till it hath drawn all 
 the Strength out of the Dye, then rince and 
 dry it. 
 
 J. paler Flejh Colour. 
 
 T'His Dye muft be made juft as the laft 
 mentioned, only the lame quantity 
 of Ingredients will Dye two Pound of Silk 
 in this Dye, that are ufed for one in the 
 other, without any Galls, 
 
 Th 
 
IO 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 The Beautiful Spanifli Flefi Colour or Cam*, 
 tion. 
 
 TAkethe Silk,after 'tis prepared/and Allo- 
 1 med as for Crimibn then to every 
 Pound of Silk take four Pound of Wild 
 Saffron, which put into a thick Bag 
 throw them into feveral Waters, and 
 work it fo long till the Water comes from 
 it clear ■, then take the Saffron out of the 
 Bag, fqueeze and rub it with your 
 Hands till it be dry, putting it into another 
 Veffel -, after which in proportion to every 
 Pound of Silk, rake four Ounces of Pot-afh- 
 es and rub them well into the Saffron in the 
 clean Veffel ; after which,if neceffary, it may 
 be yet rubbed with a little more Pot-afhes. 
 All which- being done, divide the Saffron 
 in two parts 5 take a Bag fo thick that no 
 Pot-afhes can pafs through when it is ty- 
 ed up « put one part of the Saffron into this 
 Bag and pour clean Water upon it in the 
 Kettle, till the Strength of the Saffron is 
 boiled out. Then for eveiy Poundof Silk, 
 take half a pin of Lime Juice, and divide 
 ir into two parts, and to each part ot Sal- 
 iron, add one part of Lime Juice; then 
 rake the dry Silk and ftiritupand down 
 'n the Kettle, wherein the loofe part ol the 
 Saffron is, for the fpace of an Hour -, then 
 let it beverv well wrung and palled thro 
 the Kettle wh-re "the Bag is, and for an 
 Hour continually ftir'd ; then let it be wrung 
 again and dry.d in a dark place, and not 
 
 in 
 
 -W 
 
m 
 
 The Art of Dpng. t % 
 
 Iiabella Crimfon. 
 
 Rince and bear the Prepared Silk very 
 well, then Itir it about in the fame 
 liquor in which the Orange Colour is dy- 
 ed and fo you will have a fine Ifabelh. 
 Then lent be well rinced, wrung and bea- 
 oSnS fe 1 " ? e Gal1 s «ds which the 
 
 fS 3 r h ^T becn in ' for three <» four 
 Jioursj after which rince and dry it very 
 
 well, if you have no Orange Suds take 
 
 for every Pound of Silk cJbunce of 'Or- 
 
 lean*, half an Ounce of Pot-aflies and dve 
 
 Syie he0r3nge5 then ^S 
 
 A flight fin of Purple. 
 /^Lap the Silk into the {lighter red Dve 
 
 tolrnlr 1 ^ , the i uantit y of Pot-alftes 
 to turn it to Purple, then rince and dry it. 
 
 Crimfon Violet. 
 The manner of Purple. 
 
 XHe Silk muft firft be boiled and Alio- 
 
 med, as for Madder Red ; then put a 
 
 fuffiaent quantity of clean Water into the 
 
 <W 'rfr 'if Cry ? T A of SiIk > take ^ 
 rvS? i ? aIIs ' an 0unce anc * Mf of 
 Cochweal beaten to a fine Powder an 
 Ounce of Gums * boU them together Z 
 
 Silk to foak i„ ,t for one Night, after 
 
 which 
 
,a The Art of Dying. 
 
 which, cleanfe it and you have a good 
 
 Purple. 
 
 To tehee it to Violet. 
 
 F 
 
 
 -VOu muft boiLthe Silk **£%%* 
 Y Suds, as oiten a > you ffijg* , 
 
 ing as you defire it to be^y , | 
 
 SRi-^wW. beautiful Co- : 
 
 lour, 
 
 'Or every Pound of Silk take one »Pouni 
 J- of blew or Provence Wood, bod and 
 ftir the Silk in it as »JW^ g 
 in the laft Suds a few Galls, tnen rim. 
 dry the Silk. 
 
 Averj%ooll4^ VUtt - 
 
 red as ^s, for w eryr o rf 
 
 S^Wo'oTThe If muttbe put in when 
 *t SvEe cold, for rhe colder rheS.uds 
 £ Hewer * 'Violet Colour, which muft 
 tneDiewci Tawnies. Let it 
 
 arways ^ Uwer tn an ne ^ 
 
 lye one Night m tne pua* 5 « ^ p 
 Morning ihice and dry it, 
 
 * 
 
 \ 
 
 /I 
 
 X A 
 
 Aft 
 
The Art of Vying, i 5 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 Violet Brown. 
 
 A Llom the Silks as for Tawny, and for 
 * every two Pound of Silk, take two 
 round of Provence Wood, boil it in a Bag 
 a full Hour, then take it out, put in the 
 Silk, boil it an Hour, then take it out and 
 put in the Bag again 5 then rinceit in a Lye 
 as above made, without Bole Armeniac, and 
 after that in running Water. 
 
 Crimfon deep Tawny. 
 
 •fHe Silks firft prepared, clean the Kettle 
 _ and for every pound of Silk, put in one 
 round of Galls* one Pound of Madden 
 naif a Pound of Blew Wood, and boil them 
 together with the Silk for an Hour, the 
 Wood being put into a Bag to prevent its 
 hanging in the Silk. Let the Silk remain 
 a whole Night in the Liquor, in the Morn- 
 ln g ta £afe out > w ™g and beat it well, then 
 nngMgun >, after which beat and dry 
 
 Kings Colour. 
 
 DUt a fufficienr Quantity of Water into a 
 L?f n f K !"j e or Copper, and for every 
 W of S , llk > rake twelve Ounces of 
 
 TP 
 
 h 
 
 SM 
 
 f'i 
 
 $£**— 
 
 n, 
 
6 The Art of Vying. 
 
 A fighter fort of Tawny, 
 
 f S prepared in rhe fame manner with the 
 I Red only with this difference : to 
 every Pound of Silk, take one Poundof 
 Brafil Wood, and rhe eighth part ot a 
 Pound of Provence Wood, manage tne 
 Silk as in the Red and dry it 
 
 Crimfon fawny with Cochineal. 
 
 THe Silk heingfirft Allomed and prepared 
 1 as in the Crimfon ; take a clean Ket- 
 rle, fill it with fair Water and fome blew 
 Wood Suds, of each a like quantity, and 
 then for every Pound of Silk, P^n <me 
 Ounce of Galls, one Ounce and halt ol 
 Cochineal • after which the : Silks (beuig 
 firft very well rinced) muft be put in and 
 carefully ftirred about to prevent variega- 
 ting or fpotting, becaufe the Provence 
 Wood Suds is apt to fpot if it be net very 
 violenrly ftirred, and then let ir continue 
 one whole Night in the Suds, after which 
 rince and dry ir. 
 
 Tawny. 
 
 THe Silk being firft laid in a ftrongAllom 
 A Water fot twenty four Hours, lor eve- 
 ry Pound of Silk, rake one Pound of good 
 Brafil Wood,boilit in aBag two full Hours, 
 then take it out and let the Liquor ftand 
 till vou ean iuft bear your Hand in .it, then 
 
 ' SB W. ■ PU* 
 
 '• 
 
 <•■■ 
 

 . 
 
 The Art of Dying. ij 
 
 put in the Silk, and let it continue there 
 
 an Hour, then take it out and dry it h boil 
 
 the Dye again, put it in again as before, and 
 
 then Rince it very clean .- Then take Bole 
 
 Armeniack, beat it fmall and mix it with 
 
 Beech-afhes, to be made into a Lye, which 
 
 itrian two or three times through a Cloath * 
 
 make it Milk warm, and then put in the 
 
 £Uk : when it is deep enough dyed, Rince,: 
 
 Beat and Dry it. ' 
 
 A Lafting deep Tawny . 
 
 ^Lean the Kettle very well, then fill it 
 Srf with Water, and for every Pound of 
 auk, put . in one Pound of Blew- Wood 
 one Pound of Galls 5 let them boil an Hour' 
 and then fill it up with Gall Water, and 
 while it is hot put in and ftir the Silk let- 
 ting them continue in till mxt Day' then 
 Rince and Dry it y ' 
 
 Crimfon Musi Colour. 
 
 £Lean the Kettle and fill it half full of 
 , Water, and to. every Pound of Silk 
 take a quarter of a Pound of Yellow-wood' 
 Je it up m a&g, and put it into theKet- 
 tleand let it boil very well, add to" the Yet- 
 low-wood, m proportion to every PouM of 
 ihetn ? ne ? unce t of Blew-wood and boil 
 fcalis, fill up the Kettle with ftale Gall Wa- 
 
 ueankd Silk, ftir it about very well, and 
 
 C 
 
 ►.-. ':--.---;■ 
 
. g The Art of Vying- 
 
 tag. Wing, K"«j; a w „„ ,,'d ScheiM •, 
 
 Kince, beat and hang it out to ury. 
 Cr imfon Goat Colour. 
 
 ?boye and f°^7>/ YeUow . W ood, 
 
 pUt n Ip of Blew wood •, tye it up in 
 one Ounce otDieww , g 
 
 * B3 I ofitSi put "n the allomed 
 Pound or ^aus , Ul i. them verv we ll 
 and prepared Silks "j 1 ™^^ in j he Li- 
 and leaving ttoa^J as be f or e in 
 
 r r ^ h \ K Cobur in wS; <$ Gall Water, 
 the Musk Colour wim R 
 
 next Morning take them ou i, 
 brown and dry, as ufual. 
 
 Blew Dye for Silk. 
 
 _ ^-AkeiLve of three Pails-full of Ri- 
 M ver a o7Rain Water and clean 
 Beech-afties-, put into a Tub that g« 
 
 d0f£ r^thmrtoSundofMkdder, 
 bran, the eighthpaitotaroui 
 . th^ghthpartofaPoundol Wni d rf 
 Tartar beaten to Powder, on 
 Ef& i^ S w^flck every 
 
the Art of Dying. ip 
 
 lay the Silk in a warm frefti Lye, wring it 
 out and ftii* it about in the Dye ibme time 
 afterwards, letting it hang in the Dye, ac- 
 cording to the Cuftom of Dying, and be- 
 fides the Blew Copper, there ought to be a- 
 nother Copper full of Lye, that when the 
 Silk is wrung out of the Dye, it may be 
 rinced in it, and after it is wtung very clean 
 out of that,it muft be rinced again in River 
 Water, beaten and dried as ufual. If the 
 Silk be moiftned in this latter Lye or Suds 
 before it is dyed, there is no need of the 
 firft abovementioned Lye; Several ibrts of 
 blew either lighter or darker at pleafiire 
 toy be dyed with this Dye, according to 
 the time they ate left in it, and when the 
 Copper grows low you may refill out of the 
 Rincing fat putting in a proper quantity of 
 Lye,but when the blew Copper or fat grows 
 weak then put in l 4 of a Pound of beaten 
 Indigo, j a Pound of Pot-aflies, r an Ounce 
 of Madder, one handful of Wheat bran, | 
 of an Ounce of Powdefd Tartar, and 
 let it ftand 3 days without ufing it, ftirring 
 it every twelve Houres and then dye with 
 it as before. 
 
 How to prepare a Blew Dye. 
 
 TAke firft a Kettle which will hold a fail 
 full of Water, fet it over the Fire, put 
 In a handful of unflaked Lime, two Pound 
 of Indigo, one Pound of Pot-afhes, boil them 
 together an Hour,letting them diffolve.Theu 
 slean up a Copper which muff be enoueli 
 
 v~ to 
 
2 o The Art of Dying. 
 
 to hold a Tun of Water put in two Pound 
 of Madder two Pound of Bran, two Pound 
 of PorX's boil them a little and let them 
 fade and pour the Indigo through a fieve 
 Jpontff next percolate the Lyealfo into 
 
 the F^tt but the Indigo efpecially mutt be 
 " y w II d gefced and diffolved and the 
 Copper filled with Water, covered clofe and 
 aSadeunder it, iufferitto ^owWarm 
 not Hot, ftirring it about every two Hour* 
 Sit ferments, and as loon as it begt^to . 
 melt ordigeit, it allbbegms , to turn Ye tew- 
 i(h, and then you may Dye with it : takmg 
 care rhat your hands are very clean and free 
 from all fort of greaie. When you have 
 Dved with the Suds, you muft ar^tieng 
 ihen them with Pot-a(hes,but not toe much 
 or too little, for if you are guilty of either 
 extream, rhe whole Copper full of Dye is 
 ipoiled. ' Neither ought you to Dye too of- 
 ten atone time, but betwixt every time ^you 
 Dye, theLiquour muft be very wellftirred. 
 
 An Excellent Liquet to male the BkwSuth 
 work hi cafe it happens that tbey will not 
 through fome dcfeU. 
 
 ifh be too much tatned with afltes then 
 ban- i bas of wheat flower in it, ana 
 to vvlll auraa all the fiunefs to it, and if 
 
The Art of Dying. 2 1 
 
 it be yet defective in any particular, add to 
 it a ftnall quantity of Salt-peter, and that 
 will htffig it to fermentation, as will alio a 
 little grfmnds of Beer which indeed is one 
 of the bell remedies. 
 
 To Lye Blew. 
 
 •jHe Silks muft be firft boiled, beaten, 
 rinced and prepared, whilft White, with- 
 out Allom, then boiled in the blew Sudsan4 
 wrung out, and dryed, as the Greens are. 
 
 Pearl Colour. 
 
 1 
 
 Pllt fair Water into a clean V.eflH, and 
 to every Pound of Silk take a quarter of 
 a Pound of fope, and let the Silk boil in it for 
 two Hours, then pour fome rain Water in a 
 Vetfel, to which add a bowl full of " the blew 
 Lye, or if that be too much you may life 
 half the quantity only at pleafure, then rince 
 and dry the filk. 
 
 TellotP Silk Dyes and firft Blojfom Tellow. 
 
 DTe it in the fame manner as G^ld Co- 
 m lour, then heighten it with Orange 
 Dying Suds, after which rince and dry it. . 
 
 Limon-Colour. 
 
 *2~His Dye muft firft of all be tenderly han- 
 dled h and done in weak Suds, and 
 may be regulated by comparing the G> 
 
 C3 
 
1 
 
 
 
 o 2 The Art of Dying- 
 
 lourwithaLimon, which when done nnce 
 and dry it. 
 
 Gold Colour, 
 
 *iTlftbeDyed as the Straw Colour is, 
 M „w when it is become reafonably 
 7 only wheo^t 0rang(j 
 
 i- eP, r,nd ft trh therein fo long till you 
 Setg'owndeepenongh, then tince 
 
 and dry it. 
 
 Straw Colour, 
 
 T^He Silk being firft Allomed and ^inced 
 1 for every Pound of Silk, bod one 
 Pound of Broom flowers for a quarrel ^of an 
 Hour then pour it into a Tub which muft 
 he H J or ftnaU in proportion to the quan- 
 tftyo! Silk, adding to it an equal quantity 
 of Water and after you have ftirred the 
 S Ik in k fill the Kettle again with Water, 
 and boi lit a quarter of an Hour, then put m 
 -he Silks after they're wrung out of the firft 
 Imo this fccond Suds,and if occafion require 
 aftron4r muftbe yet made, and the Silks 
 ftkedfherdn, till the colour be fufficiently 
 heightened, then rinced and hung opt to dry. 
 
 Mow Dye. 
 
 T Ake a dean Kettle, and for every Pound 
 1 of Silk,take Six Ounces of Galls,and two 
 Pound of Yellow-Wood ■, let the Yellow- 
 Wood boil an Hour before you put in tne 
 
The Art of Vying. 23 
 
 Galls, after which boil them together for 
 half an Hour, and then the Silk, being nrft 
 Allom'd and rinced, is to be put in and flir- 
 ted in the Dye, then wrung out of the Ket- 
 tte,with a little Pot afhes, and after tis again 
 wrung it mull be put into the Dye again, 
 and left there to foak a whole Night 5 
 in the Morning rince, beat, and dry it. 
 
 Fillemot Silk Dyes. 
 
 Flrft Dye them in the laft mentioned 
 Yellow, then for every Pound of Silk, 
 take \ Pound of blew Provence Wood, boil 
 it in a Bag as ufual, half an Hour, in the 
 quantity of a pail of Water, take the bag 
 out and let the Suds ftand cooling till you 
 can juft bear your hand in it, then lay the 
 Yellow Silk to foak for a full hour : Take 
 it out, boil a fufficient quantity of powdered 
 Soot in half a Pail of Water for half an 
 Hour, after which put in the Silk, and when 
 you take it out rince it lh a good ftrong lye 
 of Wood-aflies and after that in River Wa- 
 ter 5 then hang it out. 
 
 Light Fillemot, 
 
 •TTAke J Pound of Galls beaten imall, boil 
 them an Hour in half a Pail of Water ^ 
 then put in a quarter of a Pound ofVitriol,a 
 handful of Soot beaten fmall, and fo put the 
 Yellow Silks into it till it grows dark e^ 
 nought then rince and dry. 
 
 Crwh 
 
 C 4 
 
 & 
 
24 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Crimfon Fillemot. 
 
 r Lean the Kettle very well, fill it half 
 *~ full of Water, and for every found of 
 Silk, take one Pound of Yellow-Wood, put 
 it into a Bag and hoil it in the Water or 
 Tome time, then add one Pound of Galls, 
 and fill up the Kettle with ftale or old Gall 
 Water if you have ir, hut if not, with 
 frr Water •, then take the Silks ott the 
 Poles fthey heing firft Boiled A lomed 
 and Rinced) put them into the Kettle, and 
 boil them an Hour, then foak them in the 
 Liquet a whole Night, and in the Morning 
 wring themout, Rince and Beat them, after 
 which they muft he a little btowned till 
 they hecome fufficiently deep. 
 
 A flight Fillemot. 
 
 FOr every Pound of Silk, takeone Pound 
 of Fucet-Wood, and half an Ounce of 
 Pot-afhes ; boil them together, and m order 
 to render the Dye deep enough, it fliould be 
 browned with * little black at Pleafure, 
 when the Silks are deep enough dyed, 
 Rince and Dry them. 
 
 ■ f 
 
 ^ 
 
 vj 
 
 Greens for Silks. 
 
 TTOr every Pound of Silk, take a quarter 
 f-ofa Pound of Englijl) Allom, the eighth 
 part of a Pound of White Wine Tartar 
 beaten fmall, diffolve them together inhot 
 
 Wa- 
 
The Art of Dying. % 5 
 
 Water, then put in the Silk, letting it com 
 tinue in a whole Night, then take it out 
 and dry it . after which boil a Pound of 
 Broom in a Pail and a half of Water a full 
 Hour, then take out the Broom, throw it 
 away, and put in half an Ounce of beaten 
 Verdigreafe, ftirring it about with theftick, 
 then put in the Silk for a quarter of an 
 Hour, tab? it out and let it be cold, then 
 put in one Ounce of Pot-afhes,ftir them about 
 and put in the Silk again, keep it there till 
 you think 'tis Yellow enough, then Rince it 
 out and let it dry h after which put it into the 
 blew Dye Fattor Copper, and let it remain 
 there till it becomes Green and dark e- 
 nough, theji Rince it •, and by this n^eans 
 you will haveagoodGreen,to be beaten and 
 dry'd. You may let it lye a longer or lefs while 
 in' the Dye, according as you would have 
 the Green, lighter or darker, for at firit 
 you will have but a faint Green. 
 
 Grafs Green. 
 
 T Et it firft be ]Dye4 Straw-Colour pretty 
 •*-> deep, clean Rinced and clofe wruns 
 together with Sticks, and then put about 
 ffieen^or twenty Hand-fulls of Skaines in- 
 to the blew Dye Copper, tho' care mull be 
 taken that the quantity of Silk be proporti- 
 oned to the ftrength of the. Dye, and co n : 
 lequently that too many Skaines be not cut- 
 in at once When 'tis boiled enough, then 
 
 Hour, alter which you may v*>rk it again • 
 
 and 
 
^^ 
 
 %6 The Art of Dying. 
 
 r u«,ir allowing the fame Interval, 
 
 and fo every Hour allow S ^ ^ 
 
 bu t particular ■ ^» J£" - ^ an0ther , 
 Handful be not tept long c it 
 
 and when ^^Jl^ rinc ? 4 and 
 gfngfr Ss with theSticks, and then 
 dryed. 
 
 Parrot or Parroquii Green. 
 
 Tffi s he^ ^^tzt^ 
 
 * ot f'X aTd as foon as it is Dyed, 
 ^Ulewr^anddryedastheother. 
 
 Green-Finch or Canary Shd Green. 
 
 Copper, wrung and Rmcea. 
 
 OKve Green. 
 
 _ TT . mll n. «ir be dyed as the Green, on- 
 T"? Te\f SudsUft be encouraged 
 
 . t, y r,tt1p Provence-Wood Suds till it is 
 Sfpeno^hJSnwriPg out as above- 
 
 Seh- 
 
 J 
 
 A 
 
The Art of Dying. 27 
 
 Selaion Green. 
 
 *T*His Colour being very light and bright, 
 A muft be dyed as the Sea Green, and 
 boiled in weak Suds, and managed as the 
 Green, and Dryed. 
 
 Sea Green^ 
 
 Ming very light, muft be performed as 
 the Limon Colour and thrown into the 
 Blew Suds, then wrung and Dryed. 
 
 Another Sea Green. 
 
 XjOr every Pound of Silk, take three Ounces 
 of Verdigreas beaten fmall, put if into 
 good Wine or fharp Vinegar, let it diflbive 
 a whole night therein, fet it over the Fire 
 and make it hot, ftiring it about with a 
 Stick, and then put in the Silk, (taking care 
 it do not boil) and let it remain three, 
 two,one, or half an hour, according as your 
 intended Dye is to be a deep,midling,or light 
 Green, then put fome boiling hot water into a 
 Fat or Tub, to which add half an Ounce 
 or an Ounce; of Soap, and make a Ladder, 
 when it Froths 'tis then ready, then hang 
 the Silks in it, let then drop afterwards, 
 then Rince them in River water, beat them 
 very well and dry them. 
 
 A 
 
 VL 
 
 U 
 
 4 Black 
 
 V 
 
- ♦ 
 
 2 8 The Art of Dying. 
 
 J Bhch Dye. 
 
 DOnr Six Pails of Water into the Copper 
 ? to whfch add twopound of beaten Galls, 
 four Pound of Sumach, a quarter of a 
 
 Pound of Madder, ^»*°^ta taJ 
 
 mony beaten to impalpable Powder, .our 
 
 Ox Galls 2 Ounces of Gum Tragacanth -, 
 
 le'themdiifolve a proper time, then put m 
 
 a convenient quantity of dry A ld^er Bark 
 
 'r,™m1pred four Pound or Vitriol, one 
 
 KJffl a half of Filings of Iron , then 
 
 Sm off the Water as above,andletthembo I 
 
 Ker two Hours, after which fi 1 « up with 
 
 a fall full of Barley or rathe, MakVVaer 
 
 which- the Brewers draw oft, and let it 
 
 bo 1 again half an Hour ; then put in the Silk 
 
 rlnre it in a Copper full ot Water, ana 
 t tow it "gam into theDye , and after that 
 tince oerfeaiy clean in River Water, dry it 
 n the P Air •, then put it in the Dye once 
 So? and fuffer /to boil gently for 1 ralf an 
 
 Hour as before-, rince » **& « ^Vgg 
 as hefore and alterwards m River water, 
 a u when dry, take good Lye and add to 
 "eighth part of a Pound of good Pot- 
 Xs rirce the Silk very well in this Li- 
 ouor'and 'aftly in River Water, then dry 
 The rllm will alfo dye all forts 
 of Woollen Stuffs. 
 
The Art of Dying. % 
 
 An Additional improvement to the former 
 Dye. V ' 
 
 THe Silks being Dyed black as above, 
 then take of Sal-Armoniac, -Antimony 
 beaten to Powder, two Ounces, Filings of 
 Iron two Handfuls, put them together in a 
 Copper that- is drawn off, and hath been u- 
 fed before in the dying of the Silks ^ make 
 it fo hot that you cannot bear your Hand in 
 it,* that this compound help to the Dye^ 
 may the better penetrate, then take the 
 black Silk well dryed, and put it into the 
 Copper h let it continue an Hour, till 'tis 
 throughly moiftned, then draw it through 
 Water, wherein a proper quantity of Gum 
 Tragacanth hath been diflolved, taking Care 
 it be throughly wetted ^ then dry it as u- 
 fual. 
 
 To give ahijlre to Black Silh. 
 
 AFter they are Dyed, for every Pound 
 of Silk, take one Ounce of Ifinglafi 
 which fteep in Water, and pafs the Silks 
 through the Liquor and you will find them 
 of a very beautiful Luftre. 
 
 To Dye Silk of a very fine Blach 
 
 T 
 
 'Ake a Copper of two Tun of Water 
 put in a Sack and half of Bark fix 
 Pound of Provence Wood, fix Pound of 
 bumach, boil them two Hours, then perco- 
 late 
 
fo The Art of Dying. 
 
 late them into a Fat, thtow away the 
 Dregs, and fill up the Copper again, and 
 then add fifteen Pound of beaten Galls, one 
 Pound of Agaric, three Pound ot Pomgta- 
 nate Shells, two Pound of Calamus three 
 Pound of Senna Leaves, two Pound or Gen- 
 tian, and two of Marjoram v boil them to- 
 gether two Hours, then pafs the Liquor 
 through a Sieve, into the other Dye and 
 let it digeft four Days, ftirnng it often j 
 then put it into the Copper, in which 
 you intend to Dye, make a fire undent and 
 when it is hot, put in two Pailsfullof Lye 
 and boil all together very well,this done add 
 one Pound of Antimony, four Pound of 
 Honey, half a Pound of Borax one Pound 
 of Litharge of Silver, half a Pound of Lh 
 thargeof Gold, one Pound ofVerdigreafe, 
 which beat together and put into the Kettle, 
 and when the Dye is warm, throw in thir- 
 ty Pound of Lock-Smiths Filings, twenty 
 Pound of Gum, and twenty Pound ol Co- 
 peras : let it ftand and fettle eight Days, 
 v Sirring it when occafion requires h alter 
 which you may Dye with it, putting in a 
 Quart of Brandy before you begin. 
 
 A Receipt to vmU a Bye good. 
 
 1 7T /Hen it happens that the Dye be- 
 
 V V gins to work off, you ought to 
 
 confider what time of the Month it was 
 
 made, and what time Work'd : Then put 
 
 three paillitls of Water into a Kettle and 
 
 add to it two ounces of Borax, hall a 
 _ Pound 
 
The Art of Vying. % i 
 
 Pound of Agarick, a quarter of a Pound of 
 Litharge pf Silver, Four Ounces of Madder, 
 half a Pint of Brandy, iour Ounces of Ver- 
 digreafe, boil them together an Hour, 
 and then put them into the Dye, and leave 
 it to fettle ftirring often for Fourteen Days : 
 Then make a Liquor of two Pound of Senna 
 leaves, two Pound of Gentian, ©ne Pound 
 of Agarick, two Pomegranate fhells, let 
 them boil together for two Hours, and then 
 pour them into the Dye-, when this is done 
 the Dye will remain good for an Hundred 
 Years and the longer you Dye with it, 'twil 
 yield the finer Black Colour, but you muft 
 take particular care that no fbap get into 
 it, for that will fpoil it pall all help. But 
 If you fee any greafe or Tallow fall into 
 the Dye, let it cool and take it clean out, 
 and if you cannot fee it make the Ladle red 
 hotandftir the Dye about, and that will 
 confiime ot burn up any greafinefs ^ alfb fill 
 two or three Canvafs Sacks with Bran, and 
 hang them in the Dye, while it is hot,and let 
 it continue two or three Hours, then take the 
 Sacks out and cover the Dye with Brown 
 Paper, and that will. attra£l all the grealinefs 
 to it. But when the Dye begns to decay, 
 whenever you Dye you muft itrengthen and 
 refrefh it in the morning with fix Pound of 
 Gum, fix Pound of Copperas, four Pound of 
 filings and a quarter of a Pail of lye, and 
 then dye with it three days fix Pound of 
 Silk at a time. When the Silk is dyed it muft * 
 be boiled and Galled as follows. To every 
 Pound of Silk take twelve Ounces of Gall, 
 
 *» boil 
 
 4 
 
 % 
 
2 2 The Art of Dying. 
 
 tcA\ them two Hours and then lay the boiled 
 Silk (M wrung ) in the Liquor for 
 two Nights and a Day. 
 
 ABlack Bye very nfeful to help "frfy 1 *** 
 cr other things which are apt to lofe their 
 s Black Colour. ■ 
 
 -TAke aquarter ofa pound of blew Provence 
 1 Wood, boil it in half a pint of Hamburg 
 Beer tillit be half confirmed ■ then add halt 
 a Quarter of a Pound of Vitriol half an 
 oSe of Verdigreafe, take out the Wood 
 and put in half a quarter of an Ounce of 
 Gumm Tragacanth, let it Hand a while and 
 ufe it when 5 you will,, by . taking a 1 ttle- 
 
 Brum which you dip i"° V" I,, ™iS 
 it over the Hat, Wool or Si k : you will 
 
 find it affords a fine lafting black. 
 
 How to jlift* C *f" cni the l^e forts of Silk, 
 and give them a bcautijul lujtre. 
 
 TAke half an Ounce of Gum Arabick, 
 1 a quarter of an Ounce of Gum Tra- 
 gacanth; beat them very well, dilTolvethem 
 fn Water, andrhen boil a Pound of Linfeed 
 n Water' fo long till it becomes ,g u~ 
 then put in the Gum Water, fufent to te 
 hot, ftrain it through a Cloath and 
 with a Spunge linear it on the wrong fide ot 
 the Silk, taking care that the piece of bilk 
 be ftretched, both long and broadways, o- 
 therwiie it willbe apt to rumple. 
 
The Art of Dying!) 33 
 
 i 
 
 A good Grey* 
 
 \A Ay be prepared as the Tawny Dye, and 
 after the Silk is wrung out, rinced and 
 beaten, if it be browned it becomes a good 
 Grey. 
 
 i 
 
 Silver Colour. 
 -'.■>■ 
 THe Silk being firft boiled and rincecf, t£- 
 ken off the Sticks and put into a Vef 
 jfel with cold Water*, then put in a little of 
 the former rincing Water and a few Galls, 
 in proportion to the quantity of Silk, 
 which you muft ftir about; in the Liquor 
 till it is browned, and then Kince and dry 
 it. 
 
 1 
 
 Silver Green/ 
 
 hTAfce fair Water, and for every Pound 
 • of Silk put in twelve' Ounces of Galls, 
 boil them two/ Hours," then ponr tfrem into 
 another Veffel, a:nd ftir the Silks in it about 
 a quarter of an Hour, let them foak id 
 it one Night, and , in the Morning wring 
 out, rince, beat and hang them out upon 
 the Poles ^ then make another Tub of Li- 
 quor, with a fufficient quantity of Pro* 
 vence-wood Suds and cold Water, ftir the 
 Silks therein a quarter of an: Hour, then 
 let them be browned with Vitriol or Mad- 
 der, or Copperas, and wrung out and dryed. 
 
 *J Brtfn- 
 
 **"■ 
 
34 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Brlwftme Wbitt. 
 
 THe Silks boiled as in the Pearl Colour, 
 T H ; it ? l Se Addition^ "a "«le blew Lye 
 for everv Pound of Silk, add fax Ounces 
 rf Wnnce theSilk therein, wring them 
 STeilout of the Dye, a* *«***"? 
 upon very white Poles, and after that ma 
 jofc Room, fitting a Shovel or Pot of 
 Fire under them, upon whl ^™™ 
 ftone, (hut the Room clofe, and next Morn 
 ing dry them in the Air. 
 
 To Scent or Perfume Silh. 
 
 W Hen the Silk is Dyed, for every Po and 
 W of Silk take an Ounce oi Orris, dry 
 it well by the Silks in Rofe Water in a 
 thkk Sieve and betwixt every Row ftrew . 
 powder of brris, and fhut it up dofc ma 
 feox or Cheft till next day, and the bills 
 will emit an agreeable Odour. 
 
 
 
3S 
 
 A 
 
 Perfect Difcovery, 
 
 O F T H E 
 
 ART 
 
 Of D Y I N G. 
 
 A 
 
 Part II. 
 
 Of the Lying of Woo/, Woollen Cloaths and 
 Stuffs, 
 
 IN Dying of Woollens three things re- 
 quire our confideration, firft the clean- 
 ing the Wool, fecondly the preparing 
 them to receive the Dye, and thirdly 
 the Dying its felf. 
 
 Of Flower or Starch Water. 
 
 HAng two Pails-full of fair Water over 
 the Fire and put in two Hand-fulls of 
 Starch or fine Flower, boil it a quarter of 
 
 D 2 an 
 
,< The Art of Vying. 
 
 J Bran Water for flight Sttifes. 
 
 ~ -d -i f„iu of Water take two Hats 
 TO two Pail-tuUs 01 . vv aici 
 
 ther for a quarter of an hour tn ^ rf 
 into a dean Tub, where pour 
 
 water and ^ " h ^ a £?£«» &m, 
 z. e. Acid orpnaip v , an4 
 
 the fourer fo " u * ^ t ^ tf the Stuffes 
 fit T, t0 ifdefn off to make them Umber 
 
 Ho,St4es m <J}be^nel,partknlarly^ 
 
 Reds. 
 -Or every Pound of Stuff tar gRafc* 
 
 third part of the ^l^r ° 0u nee of Ta- 
 in two Ounces of A^nuom ^ 
 tar, when it bo ds and o hs afcoUt 
 
 S n rHot^aleit olr and «ta 
 
 i \he quantity of Alio- = ft«^ e 
 
 double to that ot Tartar |/^ e V/whire,, 
 iea Red Wine Tartar, and »fe "JCi f„i 
 irhers eiteem the Red better eipecwlly^. 
 
The Art of Dying. 37 
 
 Crimfbns and all brownifh Red Dyes, and 
 indeed it is very advantageous in all good 
 Stuffes that require a little Red preparatory 
 ground before they are Dyed Black. 
 
 What fort of Water is befl to dye with. 
 
 pOr the lefs valuable Stuffs and Dyes, 
 running or River Water,whether of great 
 Rivers or Rivulets, is commonly ufed. But 
 the difference of Rivers is very well worth 
 obferving, for fome are very clear and bright, 
 others very thick and muddy,thefirft are the 
 beft, but the laftif they are drawn out and 
 left to fettle for a Day and Night, are alio 
 ufeful, tho' not fo good as the other. 
 
 In the next place we ought to confider 
 whether the Water be hard and rough, or 
 fmoothandfdft, and the proof to. diftinguifh 
 their Nature, is very eafily made in the 
 boiling of Vegetables, particularly Peafe 
 or Lentils, of which if you take a meafure 
 and divide them equally into two parts, fit 
 one over the Fire in running or River Water, 
 and the other in Spring Water, and let them 
 boil an Hour, or an Hour and half, and 
 that Pot where the Peas are fofteft, to be 
 fure, had the fofteft Water. But above all, 
 we ought to avoid Nitrous Waters, and if 
 we are forced to ufe them, the following 
 Correction may be very proper. 
 
 D 3 
 
 1? 
 
3 8 The Art of Dying. 
 
 To Soften HarJ!) or BardWatm. 
 
 w 
 
 Sid it of all the ill cmal m 
 Fill a great CopP? wuh ^Efifi 
 
 KSK^rfT* very hot; 
 Sw* So the P Co P? er cover it very obft 
 
 S* roVT^^rlSlyit for 
 
 life. 
 
 T 
 
 
 Brow always a handful [of Wheat-bran 
 -»- Into the firft Suds, and let it boJ, and 
 y0 u Si find it correas the Water, and 
 renders the Stuffs more Limber. 
 
 Of feveral Particular Dyes. 
 To Dye Madder Red. 
 
 T Ake three Pound of Allom, two Pound 
 T A Salf of white Tartar a quarte of a 
 
 Pound of Fcenugreek, f° r S then 
 Wheat Bran, boil all in- the Copper tnen 
 put in the Stuff andlet it bpilrwc .Hours ; and 
 halfafter which take it out,coolit very we u, 
 and hang it out for one Night j then to 
 dye it, tike feven Pound ot Madder, an 
 Ounce and half of Aqua Mortis, aPu«or 
 
The Art of Dying. 3? 
 
 Wheat Bran, put them into the Copper, 
 ftir them very well about, and when the 
 Stuff hath been very well rinced in the Dye, 
 then wind it very iwift upon a Roller, and 
 tumble it about the Copper for an Hour 
 at leaft, taking Care that the Fire keep it 
 boiling hot ♦, after which take it qut and. 
 rince it. 
 
 To Dp Red. 
 
 plrft take three Pound of Allom, two 
 Pound of Tartar, half a P5nt of 
 Wheat Bran, in proportion to twenty three 
 Englijl) Yards of Cloath, then put more 
 Water into the Copper, and add 6 Pound 
 of good Madder and a Glafs full of Vine- 
 gar, let the Dye be hot and then put in 
 the Cloath, ftirring it about till it hath fuf- 
 ficiently imbibed the Red Colour, then rince 
 it out, and you will find it of a beautiful 
 Red, always pre-fuppofing that the Cloath 
 hath been firft boiled three Hours in Allom 
 and Tartar. 
 
 to 
 
 Genua Madder Red. 
 
 TAke three Pound of Allom, one Pound 
 and half of Tartar, boil the Stuff in 
 it an Hour and half, then pour off the 
 Water and put frefh Water into the Ket- 
 tle 5 makea Liquor often Pound of Madder, 
 four Ounces of Pot-afhes, and fome Urine* 
 and boil it off when it hatrj diflblved one 
 Night, 
 
 P 4 NuU 
 
 ■ 
 
4 a 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Nutmeg Colour. 
 
 T 
 
 -T Ake three Pouud of Allom, and half 
 T A a Pound of Tartar let it bod two I 
 Hours, then take our the Stuff, let ««oL 
 then add one Pound and half ot VUel 
 Wood or Yellow Flowers three Pound of 
 Madder, one Pound of Galls, pur them all 
 SScr'into the Kettle, and let them bod 
 an Hour and half, and wind the Stuff very 
 ciofe upon the Roller, and if it be.Red * 
 nough fake it out and cool it ■ then put in 
 two Pound of Copperas, and if you can 
 Solve it with warm Water you may add 
 a little more, then put in the Cloath, let- 
 ting it co^inue till it is enough, thennnc? 
 itasufual. 
 
 Another Nutmeg Colonr. 
 
 Ake of green Walnut Shells two or 
 - three Quarts, or elfe Walnut-tree Roor, 
 put it into the Copper, and when it boil* 
 Lt in the Stuffs and Rollers, and in a con- 
 venient time take them out and coob them 
 and let rhe Ingredients bod again then put 
 intheCloath again bod it ha an Hour 
 take it out and cool it •, then .add * Pound 
 of (Sails, three Pound of Madder, put them 
 togetha wirh the Stuff ««o the Copper 
 hod them an Hour, then take the Cloath 
 out and cool it ; then put two Pound more 
 of Copperas into rhe Kettle, for it wel , 
 j>ut in the Cloath again, let the Fire be wg 
 
The Art of Dying. 41 
 
 Jookt after, and the Stuff ftirred about till 
 the Coulour is deep enough * then rince it, 
 
 Clove Brown. 
 
 *T\Ake three Pound of Allom, two 
 X Pound of Tartar, boil them m the 
 Copper, then put in the Stuff, boil it two 
 Hours, take it out, and put in together five 
 Pound of Madder, and a Pint of Wheat 
 Bran, ftirring the Liquour three quarters of 
 an Hour till it is boiling hot 5 then draw off 
 the Water putting in Frefh Water, and put 
 in a Pound of Galls, and the Cloth •, which 
 boil for an Hour, then take it out again, and 
 put three Pound of Copperas into the Kettle, 
 and then put in the Stuff again, and ftirr it 
 bout till it isfufficiently Dyed, then rince it. 
 
 T 
 
 Cinnamon or Nutmeg Colour. v 
 
 'Ake two Pound of Allom, half a Pound 
 of Tartar, and fome fharp Lye, boil 
 tfie Stuff an Hour therein, then pour off the 
 Water putting frefh into the Kettle, make 
 the Flota of three Pound of Madder, a fuf- 
 ficient quantity of Tartar-afhes, three Pound 
 of Alder-bark, boil them together and Dye 
 the Cloth for an Hour. Some Dye it pale, 
 but if you wonld have it deeper, add two, 
 , or three Pound of Copperas, and you will 
 have a very good Nutmeg Colour. 
 
 An* 
 
4 2 The Art of Vying. 
 
 Another Nutmeg Colour. 
 
 pirft boil the Allom and Tartar, as for the 
 r red Dye, then half Madder it and add 
 to the Madder a quarter of a Found ot 
 Galls to fifteen Englifh Yards oi Stuff Care 
 muft be taken that at rhoft it be not above 
 half Dyed red, after that pafs it through 
 the Coppeias till it is dark enough, then 
 rince it, after that pafs it through the Yel- 
 wo Dye, and you will have a beautiful 
 Nutmeg Colour. 
 
 Deep or Brown Red. 
 
 IF you- would Dye a Brown-red, after you 
 have Dyed the Stuff Red, ffiix flaked 
 Lime and Brafii together, boil them and 
 then pals the Stuff through it once oroftner. 
 Several ufe Pot-aihes Lye,but that fometimes 
 tenders the Dye too deep or Brown and 
 Lime is really preferable. You mult take 
 particular care in this Operation, for it you 
 Work it too flowly it is very apt to fpot. 
 
 Hair Colour. 
 
 'Air or Goat Colour is of feveral defferent 
 ^ forts, as Light Reddifh, or Yellowifli 5 
 fq that indeed 'tis impoffible to determine, 
 which is preferable, each of them being file- 
 able, and in good Fiteem, and every Man 
 Dyes which he pleafes. Some do it with Al- 
 der-bark, Walnut fhells, green Oak chips, 
 
 other- 
 
The Art of By ing. 43 
 
 otherwife they crumble like duft. They 
 take for their firft fuds two Pound and 
 halfofAUom,and one Pound of Tartar, and 
 boil it for an Hour and half, then pour off 
 the Water. Others firft prepare the Stuffs 
 with Galls and Copperas, and Dye them Red, 
 and then Yellow : to Redden them, they 
 ufe feven Pound of Madder, and, as I have 
 laid, then pals them through the Yellow 
 Copper and after that through the Copperas 
 and Gall fuds, fo that whatever of thefe 
 Colours you would have Dyed, (hould be 
 ordered after a pattern the Workman 
 fliould Follow. 
 
 To Dye Englijh Red. 
 
 HTAke three Pound of Allom, two Pound 
 of White Wine Tartar, three Ounces and 
 half of Cerule,a pint of Wheaten Bran, and 
 boil the Cloth in this Liquour an Hour and an 
 hal£ and leave it to foak a whole Night 
 in the fuds 5 and after it is rinced out, take 
 for every piece of Cloth, Six Pound 
 of good Madder, two Ounces of Orlean, an 
 Ounce and half of Termerick, two Ounces 
 of Aquafortis ^ Let the Cloth remain three 
 quarters of an Hour upon the koller, and 
 you will havea good Englifh Red, then 
 
 rince it out. 
 
 Brafd Crimfon. 
 
 T\YeitasFlefh Colour is done^ only it mull 
 ^bedeepned^hen pour frefh Spring Water 
 
 into 
 
* 
 
 4 4 The Art of Dying. 
 
 into the Copper, to which add, Lye of Pot- 
 atoes, and Lye made with Calcined Tartar h 
 Stir them well together, and let the Cloth 
 foak two Hours, ftirring it a bout every 
 quarter of an Hour, and you will have 
 a very good Crimfon : But if the Cloth 
 doth not take the Dye kindly, you ought 
 to add more Lye. 
 
 -h 
 
 To Dye Scarlet. M 
 
 F)r every forty Pound weight of Stuff, 
 take three Pound of Madder, one Pound 
 and half of Allom, three Ounces of White 
 Wine Tartar, three Ounces of Arfenick, 
 two Ounces ofCerufe, and boil the Cloth 
 in it one Hour and a quarter, then throw 
 away the Water and put frefh into the Ket- 
 tle, adding a quart of Wheaten-bran, then 
 rince the Stuff in River Water, then pals it 
 it through the branny Water, take it out 
 and make a Liquor of three Pound of 
 Verdigreace, an Ounce and half of White 
 Wood called Immick,and rince the Stuff in 
 it feveral times, the Immick fhavings being 
 before well flirred about, then put into the 
 Yellow Liquour, five Pound of Madder, 
 two Ounces of Storax, and fuffer them to 
 diflblve fbr one whole Night, after which 
 the Stuff mu'ft be ' ftirred about for one 
 Hour, always taking care to keep a good 
 fire under the Copper, all which well otf- 
 ferv'd will produce a very good Scarlet. 
 
 S^aniJI\ 
 
The Art of Vying. 4$ 
 
 Syanijb FUR) Colour 
 
 HT Ake four Ounces of Cerufe, three Ounces 
 A and half of Arfenick, one Pound of Cal- 
 cin'd Tartar, a Pound of Allom, and boil 
 the Cloth two Hours in this Liquour, then 
 take it out leaving the fudsover the Fire 5 
 next Morning prepare a Liquour from two 
 Pound of good Leather fhreds, a quarter of 
 a pound of Oriean, the eighth part of a 
 Pound of Turmerick, and an Ounce and 
 half of Aqua Fortis. 
 
 FleJI) Colour. 
 
 A >ld when you would Dye Silk or Lin- 
 *^ nen Cottons with Brafil Wood, take 
 a quarter of a Pound pf Brafil, and divide 
 it into two parts, and in one part, for 
 a pair of Cotton Stockens, take one 
 Ounce of Galls, and to, the other part add 
 an Ounce of Allom, and pafs them through 
 each Dye twice, till the Dye become clear 
 as Water, and then 'tis wonderful to le© 
 how beautifull the Flefh Colour appears. 
 
 Anothto Fief!) Colour. 
 
 TAke three Pound and a half of Allom, 
 A three Ounces of Arfenick, four Ounces 
 of Cerufe, and boil the Cloth an Hour 
 in it \ pour off the Water, rince the fluff in 
 running Water, and make a Liquor of 
 eight Pound of Madder and two Ounces 
 
 of 
 
4 £ The Art of Dying. 
 
 offal Armoniac, fuffer them to diffolve for 
 one Night, then boil a little and add one 
 Ounce of Pot-afhes, then pour fome of it 
 upon the Stuff in the other Kettle, and as 
 often as you pour it on fo often you Dye, 
 fo that you may leave off when t5 tis light 
 Dyed, or deepen it at pieafure, and if you 
 would have it very deep, mix an Ounce 
 and half of Borax with the Pot-afhes, and 
 that will give it a beautiful Luftre alfo. 
 
 -yC To prepare for the Indigo Dye. 
 
 FIrft you muft have the ground of a Dye, 
 and put it into the Kettle, and make it as 
 warm as you can bear it^ then prepare a 
 •Lye of Pot-afhes. 
 
 Firft fill your Kettle with Water, and 
 make it boil, then put in the Pot-afhes : 
 let it boil, then put in a bowl full of Bran 
 and three Hand-fuls of Madder, let all boil 
 a quarter of an .Hour, then take and remove 
 the fire, then beat the Indigo to an impal- 
 pable Powder in a Morter, then pour fome 
 of the Lye upon it, let it fettle and pour 
 the Indigo Lye into the Blew Dye Copper, 
 then beat the remainder again, let it fettle 
 and pour the Lye into the Blew Copper, 
 and fo proceed till you have turned your 
 proper quantity of Indigo to Lye, which 
 muft all be powred into the Copper, tnen 
 follows, 
 
 The 
 
The Art of Dying. 47 
 
 The Indigo Dye. 
 
 plrft of all, to every quarter of a Pound of 
 Indigo, add one Pound and half of Pot- 
 atoes, a quarter of a Pound of Madder, 
 three Hand-fuls of Wheat bran, fufFer it to 
 boil the Eighth part of an Hour, then let it 
 fettle, decant the clear part of the Suds ' 
 orLiquor,and bray the Indigo very r?ne,which 
 mix with a fuixicient quantity of fi ffi Woad 
 or ftaie Indigo, then pour the Stuff upon it 
 and let tit boil twenty four Hours! and 'tis 
 ready to Dye wihal. f 
 
 To prepare the Dye^Copper. 
 
 plrft throw in a Pint of Wheaten bran, 
 then the Woad, after that two Pound 
 of Madder, then fill the Copper up with 
 Water, and let it boil three Hours, then 
 pour it off into the Fatt, let it Hand till it 
 comes to a due confiftence, 'then boil the 
 Copper full of Water, and pour it into the 
 Dye^Suds, and covering it warm, let it let- 
 tie for two Hours, then look after it every 
 Hour, till it becomes Blew, then according 
 to the quantity of Stuffs you have to 
 Dye, put in three or four Pound of Indigo, 
 and three Pound of Pot-afhes, let it fettle 
 and-Pye with this Liquor, taking care al- 
 ways to ftirr it 5 cover it dole and- let it 
 Hand two Hours after, every time you have 
 Dyed with it, after which you may Dye with 
 it again, adding a Efficient quantity of Lime, 
 
 if 
 
 sc 
 
* 
 
 48 The Art of Dying. 
 
 if you ufe it often, always letting it reft two 
 Hours and then adding the Lime and ftirring 
 
 it. 
 
 To Dye Brbriftone Tellov. 
 
 TAke three Pound of Allom, 6ne 
 Pound of Tartar, three Ounces of 
 Salt and boil the Stuff in thefe Materials 
 one 'Hour, throw away the Water, then 
 make a Liquor of Yellow Broom, laying it 
 in the fame order $> Straw, in Brew Houies 
 then add Lye-afhes, and draw the btutt 
 through the Dye three or four times very 
 ouick to do which dextroufly four Men 
 are required •, and you will find it of a fine 
 Crimfbn Colour. 
 
 To Dye Lemmon Colour. 
 
 T^Ake three Pound of Allom, three 
 I Ounces of Cerufe, three Ounces of 
 Arfenick, and boil the Stuff one Hour and 
 half, pour off the Water, then put :m Frefh 
 and in the fame Kettle make a Liauor of 
 Seen Pound of Green Dyers Wood 
 three Ounces of Pot-afhes, two Ounces of 
 Turmerick, let them fettle and boil, then 
 pais the Stuff quick through it 5 - and you 
 Ml find it of a Lemmon Colour. 
 
 To Bye Olive Colour. 
 
 T T muft be done as the Brimftone Yellow 
 I afterwards prepare Suds of XSalls ana 
 Coperas, ( but not ftrongj through whicn 
 
 f^ 
 
The Art of Dying. 4^ 
 
 pals the Stuffs two or three times, accord- 
 ing as you defire the Dye, Light or Deep * 
 and it will produce an Olive Cdlour. 
 
 To Bye Blach 
 
 T 
 
 Ake two Pound of Galls, hdlf a 
 Pound of Brafil, two Pound and half 
 of Maddei, boil the Cloth three Hours with 
 them, then take it out, cool it very well, 
 theuaddan Ounce and half of SaU Ammoniac, 
 and boil the Stuff gently half an Hour,rolling 
 it upon the Roller three times every quar- 
 ter of an Hour, then take it out and cool it * 
 after which add two Pound and an half of 
 Coperas,one third part of a Pound of Brafil, 
 a quarter of a Pound of Tallow ^ boil the 
 Stuff in it very well an Hour and half 5 and 
 you will find it of a beautiful black Co- 
 lour, 
 
 How to prepare the Silver Dye. 
 
 m 
 
 plrft for every fifteen Yards of Stufl^ake 
 half a Pound of Allom, anSJiree 
 quarters of Foenugreek, boil them half anf 
 Hour, then add one Pound of Pot-allies* 
 3nd half a Pound of Brafil, and boil the 
 Stuffs therein a quarter of an Hour- 
 
 To give Stujfc a beautiful Lujlre 1 . 
 
 pOr eve.ry Piece of Stuff weighing 8 Pound, 
 x take a \ of a Pound of Lmfeed, boil it 
 half an Hour, tben gercolate it through a 
 
 E vCloatfc 
 
 A 
 
 
r 
 
 50 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Cloath and let it ftand till it is turn'd al- 
 moft to a Gelly •, then take an Ounce and 
 half of Gum, diffolve it twenty four Hours 
 then mix the Liquors and put the Cloath 
 into this glutinous mixture take it out, 
 dry it in the Shade and preis it •, if doing 
 this once he found not fufficient, repeat 
 the Operation ■, and you will find* give a 
 very beautiful Luftre to the Stutts. 
 
 ^ Madder Red. 
 
 FOr everv twelve Pound of Stuff, take a 
 good handful of Wheaten Bran, one 
 Pound and half of Allom three quarters 
 of a Pound of Tartar, half an Ounce of 
 Turmerick, bod the ; Stuffs i in .item .two 
 Hours, decant the Water fill the Copper 
 "gain, and rince the Stufts then add one 
 Pound and a half of Madder the third 
 part of which mult be before diffolved, and 
 then put into the Suds, to which muftbe 
 added a little beaten white Starch ^Vine- 
 gar then roll the Stuff upon the Roller in 
 it, till it is deep enough dyed. 
 
 Another Red. 
 
 HAng over the Fire an equal quantity 
 of Starch Water, and W Water, 
 and to every Pound of Stuff put in wo 
 Ojnces of Allom, one Ounce of bea en 
 Tartar; and when it boils put in the btutt 
 letting it boil for one Hour, and ltirnng a 
 wellaWt i thenjtake it out and rince it ve- 
 
/ 
 
 The Art of Vying. 5 1 
 
 ty well; then hang the Liquor over the Fire 
 again, and for every Pound of Stuff, put 
 in three Ounces of Brafil, a few Pot-afhes, 
 boil it half an Hour, then put in the Stuffs 
 and boil them till they are fufficiently 
 tinged 5 upon which take them out, and dry 
 them as ufual. 
 
 To Dye Madder Red a light Tawny. 
 
 S 
 
 £Oak the Red Stuffs one or two Nights m 
 the Black Dye, roll them and work 
 them well about, to prevenr their growing 
 Black • and you may take them out when 
 they are dyed of a Tawny, as light or dark 
 as you would have them x and rince them. 
 
 Brown or Tawny 9 
 
 pUt a Handful of Madder into a Kettle- 
 * full of hot Water, ftir it very well about, 
 let it ftand a while . moiften the Stuff there- 
 With,then roll it up and put it into the Kettle 
 upon the Roll,and when you find that the Co- 
 lour does no longer fall upon it, then add 
 yet two handfuJs of Madder, and let it 
 cool, and when you find it boiled to a half 
 Red Colour, throw in a Pail-full of 
 the Black Dye into the Madder Suds, ftir 
 them together, clap a Wood Fire under the 
 Kettle, for when it hath its proper Heat 
 it turns the better to brown •, if it be 
 not dark enough, throw in another Pail 
 of the black Dye or more, till it %:• 
 
 
 mes 
 as 
 
5 2 The Art of Dying. 
 
 as you would have it 5 then work the Stuff 
 in it very well upon or with the Roller to 
 prevent its fpotting. This is an expenenc d 
 and approved Dye. 
 
 Another fort of Tawny < 
 
 ■Clrft give the Goods a Blew Ground', 
 r which mult be either Light or Deep, 
 according as you defignthe Tawny. Then 
 Allom them, letting them boil an Hour in 
 the Allom Water 5 let them ftand till cola, 
 rince them clean out, pais them through 
 the Madder Red Dye, and they' will turn to 
 a Light Tawny as Light or as Deep as you 
 defire,according to your Blew as above: then 
 rince and clean them out. 
 
 Deep Tawny. 
 
 Xlrft Dve the Stuffs to a Madder Red, thea 
 * take the Dye off the Fire, and put a 
 quart of Black Dye into it, for every Pound 
 of Stuff, heat it and put the Stuffs there m, 
 and work itfo long, till it hath fuffkiently 
 taken the Dye •, then cool it, and it be- 
 comes a lafting Dye. 
 
 To Bye Tawny. 
 
 TYfe the Goods Red, then boil them in the 
 U remainder of the Black Dye, boiled up 
 (after it hath been ufedj till they are dark 
 enough, then cool and rince them : But u 
 Tjouipreto Dye a Light Tawny, take hah 
 
the Art of Vying. 55 
 
 ,of the Black Dye and half Water, and it 
 •will be confequently fo much thinner and 
 weaker. % 
 
 Qx-blood Colour. 
 
 plrft Tinge the Stuffs Yellow, withaquarr 
 tern and half .of Madder to a Pound of 
 Goods, Allom and work them till they are 
 fufficientiy beautiful, then rince them well 
 out, and put into the Kettle a Tub of 
 ftale Urine, and boil it again till they take 
 the Dye h then roll the Stuffs three or four 
 times through it -, and rince them very 
 clean,. 
 
 « 
 
 Clove Brown. 
 
 'J'Ake clear fine Flower Water and heat 
 it, then put in for every Pound of 
 Stuff, two Ounces of Allom, one Ounce of 
 Tartar in Powder, boil them together 5 then 
 put in theStuff;ftirring it about for an Hour, 
 then cool and rince it, then heat fome Fair 
 Water, and for every Pound of Stuff, take 
 two Ounces of Brafil • boil it half an Hour, 
 then put the rinced Stuff into it, and 
 work it fo long, till it is fufficientiy tinged 
 Ked, then take it out, and add to the Dye 
 an Ounce of Vitriol, diffolve it very well 
 then work the Stuffs fo long in it as you 
 iiialljudge it proper 5 then rince it .out. \ 
 
 E a 
 
 ■ 
 
54 The Art of Dying. 
 
 A Purple Dye, 
 
 "COr every Pound of Stuff,putintoa fuffici- 
 r ent quantity of Fair Water, two Ounces 
 of Allom, one Pound of Tartar, and boil the 
 Cloath in it an Hour, take it out, cool, and 
 rince it* then warm fome more clean Wa- 
 ter to which add three Ounces of Brafil 
 Wood} boil it half an Hour, then work 
 the Stuffs in it till it becomes as Red as defi- 
 red upon which take them out, and put two 
 Ounces of Pot-afhes into the Dye, ftir it 
 well about, and put in the Red Stuff once 
 more, roll it Off and On the Roller, that it 
 do not fpot, then cool and rince it. 
 
 Crimfoji Flejb Colour. 
 
 rOr every Pound of Stuffs, take a proper 
 * quantity of Water, into which put half 
 a Pint of Starch Water, and then the Cloth, 
 with the ufual quantity of Allom and Tar- 
 tar Allom it, rince it out clean and tinge it 
 Yellow then take of Fair and Starch Wa- 
 ter equal Quantities, boil and fcum it pour 
 a little of it into a very clean Kettle, to 
 which for every Pound of Stutt add x an 
 Ounce -f Chochineal, boil it in the Kettle, 
 and when it boils add half an Ounce ot Tar- 
 tar, and fifteen Grains of Turmenck, halt 
 boil it with the Cloath, till it becomes 
 bright enough, and next day rince it out- 
 
 ■ 
 
The Art of Vying. 5 5 
 
 A very Good Crimfon, ^ 
 
 FOt every Pound of Wool take half an 
 Ounce of Cochineal, half a quartern 
 of Oatmeal or. Wheaten Bran, having firft 
 diflblved it Eight days in Water that it may 
 become lour, and when you intend to Dye, 
 pour the Bran Water into the Kettle, and 
 then (having the Night before diffolved 
 the Cochineal in warm Water ) clap 
 a good Fire under the Kettle to heat the 
 Liquor, and put it into.it by little and lit- 
 tle till there is no more of the Solution left, 
 ftirring it about all the while-, when it be- 
 gins to boil, then add a proportional quan- 
 tity of Lye and pafs the Cloth through three 
 times, or take half a quartern of wine Lees 
 or £fhes which throw into the warm Suds, 
 and pals the Goods through it till they have 
 fufficiently taken the Dye, 
 
 Another Crhnfon. ~-V* 
 
 ALlom the Goods as ufual, heat a fuf- 
 ficient quantity of fair Water, and for 
 every Pound of Wool or Stuff take an Ounce 
 and a half of Cochineal and as much Tartar, 
 the former being as before firft fufficiently di£ 
 folved, boil, them together, put in the Goods 
 to be Dyed ftirring them about for an hour 
 and half, then cool and rince them out. 
 
 
 ->*>•' 
 
 4 
 
 An 
 
 . 
 
 I 
 
r 
 
 I 
 
 *6 The Art of Dying. 
 
 An'Extraordinary Good Crmfott. 
 
 TfOr every Pound of Woolen ware, take half 
 ' a pail-ful of clean rain Water, put in two 
 Ounces of fine White-wine Tartar beaten 
 very fine, and two Ounces of the belt white 
 Allom, boil them together an Hour, ltit 
 the Ware about, then hang it out, let it dry 
 and rince it very well in clean Water. Then 
 take clean rain Water, and after tis heated 
 in the Copper, take out a pail or a little tub- 
 fill, into which put an Ounce of Cochi- 
 neal, beaten to an impalpable Pouder, dii- 
 folve it a little, and then pour it into the 
 Kettle again, taking care the Cochineal be 
 iinced very well out of the pail -, then take 
 of Powdered White-wine Tartar an Ounce 
 and half, of red Arfenick beaten ro Powder 
 a dram, ftir them well together put them 
 into the Copper and then the Ware after 
 them, adding a quarter of an Hour alter 
 two Ladles full of Wheaten Bran ftirring 
 them well together continually, let them 
 toil one quarter of an Hour ; then take the 
 Ware out cool and rince it. But note that 
 when you put in the bran, you mult put in 
 a fpoonful of burnt Wine lees, which will 
 give the Ware an extraordinary Lultre. 
 
 Purple Crimfon. 
 
 * 
 
 
 T^Irft Dye your Goods Light blew, M 
 ■VObferv'ing that the lighter your blew 
 the finer your Purple. Then take Cocw- 
 
tfc 
 
 The Art of Dying. 57 
 
 ncal and Tartar of each an Ounce and half; 
 and work it as other Crimfon, and you will 
 find it become a very Beautiful Colour, and 
 by the Adding of a little Bran-dye theluftre 
 will become remarkably clearer and brigh- 
 
 ter. 
 
 Lavender Crimfon. 
 
 y< 
 
 *THe Ware muft firft be Dyed, of a Taw- 
 ny faint blew, then rinced clean, and the 
 Suds thrown into the Purple Suds, after 
 they have been ufed in Dying. Thefe Suds , 
 being of very little value, and otherwife 
 ufelefs, produce a good Lavender Dye at % 
 cheap rate. 
 
 Lavender Grey, or Lavender Colour. 
 
 XJEat a proper quantity of clean Rain- ^v 
 ■ water in the Copper, and for every 
 Pound of Ware take an Ounce of blew 
 Lack beaten fmall, of beaten Galls, and vi- 
 triol half an Ounce of each, boil them to- 
 gether and put in your Ware, let it boil 
 half an Hour. This Dye is proper for 
 flight Ware, as Stockens and courfe Stuffs, 
 but not for the better fort. 
 
 To Dye a Beautiful Violet. 
 
 H 
 
 Eat clear rain Water, and Allom your 
 Ware with half a Pound of Allom, 
 two Ounces of Tartar, and a Handful of 
 Madder, for every four Pound weight of 
 
 Ware. 
 
• " 
 
 5 8 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Ware, Itir thefe ingredients well - together, 
 and when they are diflblved and begin to 
 boil, put in what you intend to Dye, boil 
 it half an Hour, take it out cool and rince 
 it. Put ftefh Water to your Liquor, and 
 add a quarter of a Pound of brown Wood 
 in a clean bag, boil it an Hour and half, 
 then put in your Ware again, and boil it 
 an Hour and half, take it out, then put in- 
 to the hot Suds 6ne quarter of a Pound of 
 Verdigrefe, it being firft diflolved in warm 
 Water, ftir it well about, then put in your 
 Ware again, ftirring it about for a quarter 
 of an Hour, till it begins to boil •, then take 
 it out, cool and rince it, and you will find 
 it of as beautiful a Violet Colour, as ever 
 was Dyed. 
 
 Another Violet Dye. 
 
 ALlom your Work as ufual, with one 
 half Starch Water, and for every Pound 
 take two Ounces of Allom, one Ounce of 
 Tartar, boil them together an Hour, then 
 hang other f reft Water over the Fire, and 
 when it is hot, for every Pound of Goods 
 take two Ounces and half of Brafil (hav- 
 ings, and a fufficient quantity of great Pot- 
 atoes* boil them together a quarter of an 
 Hour, then put in your Goods,keep them in 
 . till they take the Dye, then co©l and rince 
 them. 
 
 A 
 
The Art of Vying. 59 
 
 -m 
 
 A Scarlet Dye. 
 
 TOOx every two Pound of Goods to be 
 Dyed, take two Ounces of Tartar, one 
 Ounce of Sal-armonicak, pulverize them, and 
 when the Water begins to boil, put them 
 in, then take two Ounces of White Starch, 
 half an Ounce of Gummt Gutta, put 
 them both into the Water, then add 
 one Ounce of Cochineal, let them boil and 
 laftly put in an Ounce and half of Aqua- 
 fortis. This done put in the Ware,boil them 
 altogether, take it out, cool and rincc it. 
 
 Another Scarlet. 
 
 A Llom your Goods as for Crimfbn in Ri- 
 ver Water, and after it hath boiled two 
 Hours, let them hang a whole Night, 
 without rincing, but rince them out in the 
 Morning^ To Dye them, take clean Bran- 
 water, boil and Skim it clean,, then for every 
 Pound of Ware, put in an Ounce of Pul- 
 verized Tartar, half of which muft be firft 
 mixed with half an Ounce of Cochi- 
 neal, and when the Liquor where the re- 
 maining half of the Tartar is hath boiled, 
 then put in the Cochineal, &c. Boil them 
 together, afterwards, adding half an 
 Ounce of Aqua-fortis wherein a fmall quan- 
 tity of Sal-armoniac, and not biger than 
 a Pea, hath been diilblved, which is to be 
 put in when the Goods have boiled about 
 a quarter of an Hour: then let them all 
 
 boil 
 

 fa The Art of Dying. 
 
 boil together for a little while, then cool 
 and rince* out the Goods. 
 
 A Good Scarlate. 
 
 CEt a Copper Kettle over the Fire with 
 ° fome Rain Water, then for every Pound 
 of Ware, put into a Tin Pot an Ounce and 
 half of Aquafortis, an Ounce and half of 
 pulverized Tartar, and an Ounce of Sal- 
 Armoniack : Or if you have a little Scarlate 
 Liquor, put in a little Cochineal. After this 
 put them into the Water, itir them well 
 together, put in the Goods, boil them foy 
 one Hour, take them out, cool and rince 
 them, then dye them as follows : 
 
 For every Pound of Ware, take one 
 Ounce of Cochineal, two Ounces of Tar- 
 tar, a quarter of an Ounce of Sal-Armoni- 
 ack both pulverized,Itir them very well 5 and 
 put in the Work * boil it an Hour and half 
 with the abovementioned ingredients, pre- 
 paid as above, and Rain Water, rolling the 
 Stuff upon the Roll as occafion requires, 
 then take it out, cool and rince it, and you 
 will have a beautiful Scarlate. 
 
 Bow to Bye a piece of Cloath of twenty fa 
 Pound weight, the Englifh Madder Red. 
 
 *TAke two Pound and half of Allom, one 
 * Pound of Pulverized White Wine Tar- 
 tar, boil them in Water, and, when it is 
 proper to put in your wet Cloath, then put 
 half a Pound of tempered Aquafortis into 
 
 the 
 
The Art of Vying. 6% 
 
 the Suds * then put in the Cloath, ftir it 
 about very well and very Iwift, boil it two 
 Hours, and let it remain in the Suds twelve 
 Hours, thenrinceitout. 
 
 Tofnljh it, 
 
 THAke four Pound of Madder, an Ounce 
 A and half of Gummi Gutta, an Ouncs 
 and half of purified Pot-afhes, one Pound 
 of Wheat-bran ^ mix them in Water and 
 pour them with -their Liquor into the Suds, 
 then put in the Cloath, ftir and work it as 
 proper that it be not fpotted, and you 
 will find this an extraordinary Dye. 
 
 Another fort of Englifh Red which it deeper. 
 
 JXO'il your Ware to be Dyed, with two 
 Ounces of Allom, two Ounces of Tar- 
 tar, two Ounces of Aquafortis tempered 
 with two Ounces of fine Tin, a quarter of a 
 Pound of Madder ♦, this is the proportion to 
 one Pound of Wool or Stuff, and ought 
 to be augmented in proportion to the weight 
 of the Cloath, only the quantity of Tin mull 
 not be more than doubled to twenty Pound 
 of Ware, for a large quantity of Aquafor- 
 tis may be as well tempered with two Oun- 
 ces, as with a quarter of a Pound \ Then 
 boil the Cloath two Hours in it, ftirring it 
 as much as is proper, cool it in the Suds 
 and rince it out. Arfd, 
 
 * 
 
6v The Art of Dying. 
 
 To Finijb the Dye^ 
 
 FOr every Pound of Ware, take a quarter 
 of a Pound of Madder, or \ a \ of a Pound, 
 according as you would have the Dye deep, 
 a | of a Pound of blew Wood, \ an Ounce of 
 Allom. Stir the Cloath very well in it, and 
 when you find it takes the Dye, add half 
 cm Ounce of purified Pot-afheS, and ftir the 
 Stuff well about that it do not ipot. This 
 Dye appears \ 7 ery beautiful to the Eye, but 
 all Wood Dyes are apt to ftain very much, 
 not only by Wine, Urine, Vinegat - but by 
 dirt, fouf water, &c. 
 
 Common or flight Crimfon. 
 
 The Ingredients being proportioned^ to one 
 Pound of Jfare^ 
 
 TTAke two Ounces of Allom, two Ounces 
 of White-Wine Tartar, one Ounce of 
 Aquafortis, tempered with half an Ounce 
 of EngliJIi Tin, a quarter of a Pound of 
 Madder and a quarter of a Pound of Blew 
 Wood. Boil your Stuffs well in the Liquor, 
 let them cool, and rince them out 
 
 To FbtlJI) the Dye*, 
 
 TAke a quarter of a Pound of Blew 
 Wood, three Ounces of Pot-aihes, 
 ftirring the Stuffs very quick in the Liquor* 
 This Dye looks very well and may ferye for 
 flight Stuffs, and thofe defigned for Lin* 
 
 hi; 
 
m 
 
 The Art of "Dying. 6% 
 
 ings, and kept from Sweat, Wet and 
 Weather, but it quickly fades. 
 
 How to Dye a very fine Crimfon. 
 
 TJ'Or every eight Pound of Wool or 
 Stuffs, boil fix Gallons of Water or 
 rather more, to which add eight Handfuls 
 of Wheat Bran ♦, let it fettle for one Night, 
 ftirring it very well, and in the Morning 
 decant the Liquor clear, or rather percolate 
 it, that it may be perfectly clean: Take - 1 of 
 this Liquor, and mix with as much clean 
 Water, that the Stuffs or Wool may be work- 
 ed commodioufly in it. Boil this mixt Liquor, 
 and put into it one Pound of Allom, and 
 half a Pound of Tartar, boil them very 
 well, then put in the Ware and let it boil 
 two Hours, ftirring it (eipecially if Wool,) 
 from top to bottom continually. 
 
 To FintJI) itj 
 
 ROil the remainder of the Bran Water 
 with an equal quantity, or rather more 
 fair Water, and when it boils throughly, 
 put in four Ounces of Cochineal, and two 
 Ounces of pure White Wine Tartar pul- 
 verized ^ ftir it about, taking Care that it 
 doth not run over or boil too faft, and when 
 'tis very well boiled, put in ypur Ware, 
 and ftir it about till you rind that it hath 
 equally t^ken the Dye in all places, then 
 cool andrinceitout, 
 
 To 
 
 I 
 
^4 The Art of Dying. 
 
 To DyeScarlate or Nacarat (i. e. a lively Red) 
 the quantity of twenty /even Pound, of Wool- 
 len Ware. 
 
 THe Ware muft be very well cleanfed, 
 x then take two Pound of Tartar, iix 
 Ounces of Sal Gemmae, four Ounces of Sal 
 Armoniack, two Pound of Aquafortis tem- 
 pered with Tin, three Ounces of Cochineal ; 
 when you put thefe into the Kettle,put in the 
 Stuff alfo, and let them boil together half 
 an Hour, then rince out the Ware. 
 
 To Finifi ti- 
 
 'IjpAke one Pound and a quarter of Co- 
 chineal, one Ounce of Sal Gemm£, 
 one Ounce of Tartar, half a Pound of tem- 
 pered Aquafortis, and boil the Ware gently 
 with all thefe Ingredients, then rince it 
 out. 
 
 N. B. You may at pleafure ufe more of the 
 Sal Armoniack, and lefsof the Sal Gemma: : 
 Alfo, if you take but one Pound of Cochi- 
 neal, and the Goods be well ftirred, cooled 
 and rinced, the Dye will be about as good 
 as the other way. 
 
 A Scarhte Dye for one Pound of Wool 
 
 TAke -two Ounces of Aquafortis, one 
 Ounce of EngliJI) Tin, two Ounce* 
 of White Wine Tartar, an Ounce and half 
 
 of Allom, half a Dram of Cochineal^ and 
 
 boil 
 
The Art of Dying) 6 s 
 
 and bt>il the Wool with them half an Hour, 
 then cool and rince it out. 
 
 To Finifh it^ 
 
 HpAke an Ounce and half of Cochineal ^ 
 but if you would Dye Crimibn, add 
 a little Allom, and a quarter of an Ounce, 
 or lefs, of Sai-armoniack. 
 
 A Scarlet Dye, proportioned to three Found of 
 Wool 
 
 'TAke four Ounces of tempered Aqua- 
 fords, four Ounces of Tartar, one Ounce 
 of Sal-armoniac, one Ounce of Sal-gemma^ 
 one Ounce of Cochineal: boil the Wool 
 with all thefe, half an Hour, then cool it 
 and add to the Suds an Ounce and half of 
 Allom, and when it begins to boil, to com- 
 pleat the W° r k, put in two Ounces of Co- 
 chineal. This Dye is deeper and more enclin- 
 ed to Purple, than the former, and "confe- 
 quently better. 
 
 * 
 
 To Bye Sixty two Found of Ware a Scarlatc 
 Colour. 
 
 'TAke two Pound of tempered Aqua- 
 fortis, two Pound of Tartar, half a 
 Pound of Sai-armoniack, three Ounces 
 of Cochineal h boil the Cloath with thele 
 half Hour, then cool it, and put in- 
 to the Suds, one Pound of red or Roach 
 All om, as well as the Cloth a fecond time * 
 
 F boil 
 
■ I— 
 
 / 
 
 66 The Art of Vying. 
 
 boil them three quarters of an Hour, and fo 
 coo land rince it out* 
 
 To finijh it, 
 
 ADd two Pound of Cochineal, with 
 "" which boil the Stuff, a quarter of an 
 Hour, and you will find the Colour extraor- 
 dinary good. 
 
 To Dye a Lighter fort of Scarlett e. 
 
 "COr every four Pound of Ware, take five 
 r Onnces of Aquafortis, as much White 
 Wine Tartar, an Ounce and half of Cochi- 
 neal, boil the Goods to be Dyed with it 
 three quarters of an Hour, take them out, 
 pour frefh Water into the Kettle, and finifh 
 the Work as follows. 
 
 Take three Ounces of Cochineal, three 
 Ounces of Starch, two Ounces and a half 
 of tempered Aquafortis, three Ounces of 
 Chriltal Tartar, an Ounce and half of 
 Gummi Gutta h boil the Water with thefe 
 ingredients half an Hour, and the Work is 
 perfectly done. 
 
 All forts of Wool and Woollen Wares 
 mult be well wetted before they are put 
 into the Suds-, and this Caution is more 
 efpecially neceffary in the Scarlate Dye. 
 
 To Dye a Natural, or Lively Crimfon. 
 
 FIrft the Ware mull be well wetted,' 
 and then for every four. Pound to make 
 
 the 
 
The Art of Dying. 6y 
 
 the Suds, take two Ounces and half of tem- 
 pered Aqua-fortis, three Ounces and half of 
 Tartar, eight Ounces of Allom, an Ounce 
 and half of Cochineal, with all which 
 boil the Goods half an Hour, then cool 
 and rince them. 
 
 To Firiijh the Dye. 
 
 TAke four Ounces of Cochineal, three 
 Ounces of Starch, three Ounces of 
 White-wine Tartar, half an Ounce of White 
 Arfenick 5 boil them together a full quarter 
 of an Hour, then put in your Ware 5 boil 
 it fomewhat above half an Hour, or till it 
 hath well and equally taken the Dye. 
 
 To Dye thirteen Pound of Woollen Ware of 
 a very deep Scarlet Flejh Colour. ' 
 
 *J"Ake two Pound of Aqua-fortis , tem- 
 pered with eight Ounces of Tin 5 two 
 Pound and half of White wine Tartar, 
 halt a Pound of Sal-gernmar, four Ounces 
 of Sal-armoniack : boil the Ware with all 
 the ingredients half an Hour, then rince it 
 out} and 
 
 To finijh it^ 
 
 A DD one Pound and a quarter of Cochi- 
 Jr x neal, one Ounce of Sal-armoniack : boil 
 the Ware with them a quarter of Hour 
 and the Colour will be very good. 
 
 * 2 j£no- 
 
l< 
 
 6 8 The Art of Vying. 
 
 Another fort of Scarlet for Twenty Six 
 Found of Woolen Ware. 
 
 'Ake four Pouud of White Wine Tar- 
 tar, one Pound of Allom, one Pound 
 and half of Aqua-fortis tempered with Sax 
 Ounces of Englifti Tin, two Ounces of 
 Cochineal* boil the Ware with theft 
 an Hour, then cool and rince it. 
 
 To Finifi it, 
 
 A Dd one Pound and a quarter of Cochi- 
 <"■ neal boil it one quarter of an Hour, 
 then pur in the Ware and boil it a quarter 
 r>f in Hour, then rince it out. . 
 
 ° You may at pleafure ufe more Allom 
 in rhe preparatory fuds as one Pound and 
 half or two Pound s and you may alfo add, 
 £ f an Ounce of Cochineal, namely gf 
 Ounces and a half, and ufe lefs of the Tin, 
 as four Ounces. 
 
 To Dye Purple 
 
 -Clift rhe Ware mult be blewedin the 
 r Sd« which harh been worked rill < 
 turn to a fort of a half Green, rhen bo J 
 th^e quarters of an Hour with rwel 
 Ounces of Aquafortis, half a Pound « 
 Sal-armonicack, rwo Pound of White W J 
 Tartar, two Pound of Roach Allom, a» 
 then rinced our. 
 
 To 
 
 y 
 
The Art of Dying. 6$ 
 
 To fini/h it^ 
 
 pOr Twenty Six Pound of Ware, (to 
 which proportion the fuds above are 
 adjufted) take one Pound and a quarter of 
 Cochineal, and if it be feared that will 
 make it too red, it may be correfted with 
 two Ounces of Pot-afhes, and three Ounces 
 of Lacke. If the Aquafortis be tempered, or 
 the Work performed in a Tin Kettle, or 
 lefs Sal-armoniack uied, the Colour inclines 
 the more to the Blew. 
 
 V 
 
 An Englijh Liquor^ to fcowr Scarlet. 
 
 "fAke one Pound of Wheat-bran, boiled 
 in as much Water, as is requilke to 
 Work, ten or twelve Pound of Ware 5 at 
 length add to it three Ounces of Allom, 
 three Ounces of Florentine Orrice-root pul- 
 verized; boil them together,pour them into 
 a xlean Fat, or cooler, and let them fettle 
 till the Liquor is clear, then heat the faicj 
 clear Liquour in a Kettle, and Scowr the 
 
 r C | r n! te with k > and y° n wil1 find * gopd 
 
 To Dye a good Crimfon Violet, 
 
 ■J^ Ware muft firft be Dyed a deep blew 
 Oreen, then boiled as for right Crim- 
 en, rmced very clean out of the fuds, and 
 fimrtied with three Drams of Cochineal in 
 proportion to one Pound of Ware, and ib Von 
 will have a right good Colour. * A 
 
 ¥ 
 
 
jo The Art of Vying. 
 
 A Pearl Colour Dye proportioned to one Poimi 
 of Wool 
 
 • 
 
 TAke one Ounce of blew Lack, half an 
 Ounce of blew Wood, half an Ounce 
 of burnt Allom. The blew Wood being 
 firft boiled a quarter of an Hour in a Bag, 
 and then taken out • the Lack fifted through 
 a Hare fieve h the Liquor Skimmed, and 
 very well Stirred, for a quarter of an Hour 
 and helped with a quarter of an Ounce of 
 Pot-allies. 
 
 A deep Fillemot Dye proportioned to fourteen 
 Pound of Wool. 
 
 TAke five Oounces of Galls, eight Ounces 
 1 of Fucette or Virette Wood, four Ounces 
 of Madder and one of GummiGutta.-when 
 the Dye is boiled, ftir the Ware in it, till 
 the Dye hath fufficiently penetrated it. 
 
 If you defign it brighter, then ufe only 
 three Ounces of Galls, and three Ounces of 
 Madder, and add two Ouncesof Virdigreece. 
 
 Or otherwife,take<four Ounces of Fucette 
 Wood, two Ounces of Galls, half an Ounce 
 of Madder, and half an Ounce of Vitriol. 
 
 To Dye a Peace of Rajh Mushcohur. 
 
 TAke half a Pound of Galls, one Pound 
 X of Yellow Wood, one Pound 01 
 Vitriol ^and ftir the Stuff in it as uiuau^ 
 
A 
 
 The Art of Dying. 7 1 
 
 A Lafling modeft and neat Turple brown, 
 
 nrHe Cloth (for flight Stuffs won't bear 
 the price of this DyeJ muft firft be 
 Dyed blew, either Light or Dark in pro- 
 portion to the Colour you defire to Dye, 
 then boil it firft with Galls and Madder, or 
 with Galls alone : laftly with Copperas 
 alone. When it is well boiled with Mad- 
 der, or with Copperas and Madder, or 
 when it is boiled with Galls alone, if it be 
 perfeftly finifbed, it will not take any ftain 
 from Wine, Vinegar or Urine. 
 
 On the contrary all Colours Dyed with 
 Wood, as for Example the Red or the Blew 
 wherein Brafil is ufed, ftain with the weak- 
 *ft Acids, which caufe in them a very re- 
 markable change. Yellow Wood indeed 
 is a Sort of exception to this General Rule 
 for its Dye do's not Change fo foon. 
 
 A Dark Gray. 
 
 pofJ, hl r mcans r thtt VOt every Pound of 
 
 becaufe there is no Woolen Ware fake;? 
 
 Wood direftly fo called n »«Z C n IT n 
 
 in the German Langua- 4 u arter 01 d. TOUnd of 
 
 &£K£?d£ C °PP ei ^ and a Quarter 
 
 or a Pound of Brown 
 Wood ( or * Walnut Tree, ) 
 
 i 
 
 ? 4 
 
 To 
 
7 2 The Art of Dying. 
 
 To Finijh it, 
 
 TTAke two Ounces of Brown Wood, and 
 . half an Ounce of Copperas. 
 
 F 
 
 A Musk Colour, 
 
 Or every Pound of Wool, take two 
 Ounces of Copperas, two Ounces of Al- 
 lom, two Ounces of Tartar, two Ounces of 
 "brown Wood, and two Ounces of Madder. 
 
 To FiniJ/j it, 
 
 ■TAke again Brown Wood, Madder, Cop- 
 peras, of each two Ounces. 
 
 Silver Grey or Silver Colour. 
 
 Oil theWare with one Ounce of Allom,and 
 ( one Ounce, of Pot-afhes, for every Pound 
 
 of Ware let the Stuff lye in it h one whole 
 
 Night and then boil it. 
 
 To Finijh it, 
 
 TfAke one Ounce of Sal-armoniack, one 
 A Ounce of Litharge of Silver, one Ounce 
 of bright foot, half a Dram of Chriftai of 
 Tartar h let them diffolve together for one 
 Night, boil them an Pour, then pafs the 
 "Ware through it 
 
 B 
 
The Art of Dying. 73 
 
 W 
 
 Fled) Colour. 
 
 nTAke one Ounce of Tartar, and half an 
 x Ounce of Starch, for every Pound of 
 Ware * boil them together in a little Water, 
 and Skim them. Then add to them a 
 quarter of an Ounce of Cochineal, a quar- 
 ter of an Ounce of Starch, a quarter of an 
 Ounce of Englifh Tin mixt with an Ounce 
 of Aquafortis, and an Ounce of Rain-water. 
 Firft let the Water with the Tartar and 
 Starch boil, arid then throw in the other 
 Ingredients and boil them together, then 
 boil the Ware an Hour in the Liquor, and 
 your Work is done. 
 
 Another FUJI) Colour. 
 
 T^Ake White Wine Tartar one Ounce, 
 •■• Starch flower and Juice of Limons, 
 of each half an Ounce, Cream of Tartar 
 one quarter of an Ounce, a little Turme- 
 rick upon the point of a Knife ^ boil all 
 trjefe in fair Water, then with half an 
 Ounce of Cochineal, and a little while after 
 with an Ounce of Aquafortis, wherein a 
 DrarrKof Tin hath been diflblved, boil 
 the Stuff an Hour in this Liquor. 
 
 Spamjb Flejb Colour. 
 
 TjOr every Pound of Ware take two 
 
 Ounces of Tartar, a quarter of an 
 
 Ounce of Cochineal, a quarter of an Ounce 
 
 of 
 
74 The Art of Dying, 
 
 of Starch, to which add half an Ounce, 
 when the former hath been a little while in 
 the Suds. Then diflblve two Ounces of 
 filings of Tin in three. Ounces of Aquafortis 
 in the Sun Shine, put the Cochineal into the 
 Liquor by degrees, and when it boils, let 
 it be followed by the Aquafortis, and a lit- 
 tle while after by the Ware^ boil it an 
 Hour, pour off the Water, and add a quar- 
 ter of an Ounce of Cream of Tartar, or the 
 moft fubtile Tartar, half an Ounce of 
 Limon Juice, half an Ounce of Starch, 
 and half an Ounce of Cochineal, then boil 
 it a quarter or half an Hour, according as 
 you fee occafion. 
 
 Crimfon. Tawny* 
 
 HEat the fame preparatory Suds, as for 
 the Crimfon Dye, and ftir into it 
 of Galls half an Ounce, of Gum two 
 Ounces of Copperas an Ounce and half, 
 all pulverized^ boil them till the Gum melts, 
 then put in and Work, the Ware in it half 
 an Hour, and you will have a beautiful and 
 Lafting Colour. 
 
 To Dye Tellow. 
 
 ALlom your Ware as ufual for half 
 an Hour. Then for every Pound, 
 take half a Pound of Yellow Dye 
 Weed, a Hand ful of Wood afhes, boil 
 them a quarter of an Hour, then throw 
 your rinced Ware into the Liquor, 
 
 Work 
 
The Art of Dying. 75 
 
 Work it about till you find it well Dyed, 
 then cool and rince it. 
 
 Gold Colour, 
 
 "TTAke your Ware after it is Dyed Yellow 
 ■*■ as above, hang frefh Water over the fire, 
 and for every Pound of* Ware, take one 
 Ounce of Fuftel Wood, commonly called 
 Gelb Swanc or Yellow fhavings, and a fuf~ 
 ficient quantity of coarfe Pot-afhes, boil the 
 Dye half an Hour, then Work the Stuff 
 in it. 
 
 Straw Colour, 
 
 *J*He Ware being firft Dyed Yellow, throw 
 into the Dye half a Pint of Urine, put 
 it in, and Work it about as long as you 
 think convenient. 
 
 Flame Colour, 
 
 pOr every Pound of Ware, take two 
 Ounces of Fuftel-wood, one Ounce of 
 Pot-afhes, boil them half an Hour, then 
 ltir it very , well after which put in your Ware, 
 it being firft Dyed Yellow, work it till the 
 Colour pleafes you, then rince it out. 
 
 Fillemotte. 
 
 pAfs your Yellow Dyed Ware through 
 
 ' the hot black Dye, and when it is cool 
 
 rince it, ftill obferving that the lighter the 
 
 Yellow 
 
 1 
 
7 6 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Yellow is the lighter the Fillemott is to be 
 expe&ed, then hang fair Water over the 
 Fire, and put in half an Ounce of 
 Brafil Wood, boil it a quarter of an Hour, 
 and then pafs the Ware through it, 
 
 To Dye Green. 
 
 DYe the Ware firft Yellow with Broom 
 or Dye-weed, rince it well out, and 
 while it is yet wet, pais it through the 
 blew £>ye, and Work it Light or Dark at 
 pleafure', fo that feveral forts of Green mav 
 be Dyed the fame way (the Stuff being al- 
 ways firft tinged Yellow -, ) as for example, 
 Grafs-green, Sea-green, Light-green, Brown- 
 green, Iron-green, or whatever Green you 
 defire. 
 
 A Sea Green. 
 
 FOr every Pound of Ware, take three 
 Ounces of pulverized Verdigreas, three 
 Pints and a half of Wine Vinegar, half a 
 Pint of Beer Vinegar, ftir the Verdigreas in 
 it s P a & a P air °f Stockins through the 
 Liquor, then hang them out without rinc- 
 ing, let them Dry and then wet them in 
 the'Liquor again, andfo dry them as before 
 fo oft till they are perfectly cleared from 
 all fort of humidity. 
 
 A 
 
The Art of Vying. 77 
 
 
 A Brown or Iron Green, 
 
 J-^Ang fair rain Water over the fire, and 
 for every Pound of Ware put in pul- 
 verired Galls, and Gum, Brafil and Cop- 
 peras, of each an Ounce and a half-, an 
 Ounce of Verdigreas $ boil them well to- 
 gether, ftirring them very well, then boil the 
 Ware ih it till it is to your fatisfaftion, and 
 rince it when cold. 
 
 A Black Dye, which is often ufed with good ' 
 Jiiccefs, 
 
 pill your Kettle with very clear Water, 
 and to Dyeten piecesof Frize or coarfe 
 Stuff, take two Pound and a half of right 
 Turkifti Galls, one Pound and a half of 
 Brown wood, or Walnut Tree $ boil them 
 very well together, then put in the Stuffs 
 and let them boil two Hours, and lye a 
 whole Night in the Liquor, take them out 
 and if you have any old Dye luds, that 
 hath before been ufed, pour it to the Gall 
 Liquour and add two round of Copperas, 
 let them throughly boil, then put in thefe 
 Stuffs, boil them two Hours and leave them 
 a whole Night in the Liquor, then rince 
 them out and let them be very carefully 
 and nicely Dyed h if it be in a Kiln, 'tis 16 
 much the better ^ rub them with a pumice 
 Stone, and Imooth them very well, then 
 pour the Dye out of the Kettle and 
 keep it, and repeat the mentioned Operati- 
 on 
 
78 The Art of Dying. 
 
 on in every particular •, Iron the Stuff a lit- 
 tle with a hot Iron, after which take 
 Water, and two Pound and a half of Turk- 
 ifh Galls, one Pound and a half of Brown- 
 wood, and Dye them a third time after 
 the fame manner : and they will be black 
 enough, but if you would have the Dye 
 more bright and beautiful, take a Kettle full 
 of fair clear Water, put into it half a Pound 
 of Calcined Vitriol, and one Pound of 
 Tartar, boil the Stuffs in this Liquor an 
 Hour, and rince them out, then put frefh 
 Water into the Kettle, and for every Piece 
 of twelve Ells, put in half a Pound of 
 Brown wood, and boil the Stuffs half an 
 Hour, or an Hour, and if you would have 
 the black yet finer, and better, then Dye it 
 once in the Following Soot Dye. 
 
 The Soot Dye. 
 
 GAll the Ware with Alder Bark and 
 Galls for three Hours, and to blacken 
 the Gall fuds add lye and foot, boil the 
 Ware in the Liquor two Hours, then add 
 Copperas and leave the Ware in a whole 
 Nigluythen rince it out. ) 
 
 How to Dye a Peice oj Stuff of fifteen Ells, 
 a Lafling brown or Iron Green. 
 
 HTAke three quarters of a Pound of Al- 
 x lorn, half a Pound of Tartar, two Oun- 
 ces of Calcined Vitriol^ boil the Stuff W 
 it half an Hour, rince it in clean Water, 
 
 and 
 
5> 
 
 The Art of Dying. y? 
 
 and when dryed for the blew, you may 
 throw away the Allom liids. 
 
 How to blew it 
 
 ^He Frieze Fuftian, or other Ware being 
 blewed with Woad, light or deep 
 according as you defire your Green to be 
 of a light or deep brown, then it muft be 
 rinced again and dryed, to prepare it for the 
 Following Yellow, 
 
 The Tellow. 
 
 *J£Ake eight Pound of Broom, and keep It 
 down in the Kettle, with a 'ftick or 
 hoop, that it do not Flote on the Top, boil 
 m half an Hour, and when you would ufe 
 it, add two quarts of fharp Lye, half an 
 Ounce of flower of Brimftone, an Ounce 
 and half of Verdigreas, then Dye your 
 Ware once only, and you will find it of a 
 beautiful brown or Iron Green-, you may if 
 you pleafe, Dye your Stuff Green from a 
 Lead Colour, and it will be deeper than the 
 other, and laft very well, but when 'tis 
 Dyed with Brown *Wood and blewed 'tis 
 lighter,but is not fo firm as the other. 
 
 How to Dye aPeice of Fuftian, Frize, or other 
 Goods of twenty five Ells, of a Ming 
 Brown Violet Colour, 
 
 ^Ake three quarters of a Pound of Al- 
 lom, half a Pound of Tartar, half an 
 
 Ounce 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
,*.,> 
 
 fl! 
 
 80 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Ounce of Sal-armoniack, boil Ithe Stuff in 
 this Liquor two Hours, rince it in clean 
 Water and dry in order to blew it as follows. 
 
 The Blew Dye. 
 
 DYe it a deep lafting blew, with Woad 
 or Indigo, rince it clean and dry it. 
 
 T 
 
 Then follows the Brown Violet. 
 
 Ake one Pound of Brafil boiled in a 
 great Pot apart, and divide it into 
 fou r equal parts •, with a clean Ladle put the 
 one part into the Kettle before the Stuff is put 
 in, and addbefides Salt-peter, and Sal-armo- 
 niack pulverized, of each one Dram •, then 
 pafs the Stuff very well through the Dye, 
 then dry it, then put in another part of 
 the Brafil, adding to it a quarter of an 
 Ounce of Galls pulverized, pals the 
 Stuff through the Dye again, and dry it 
 and fo repeat the Operation twice more > 
 and after the fourth time, you will find it 
 of a beautiful Violet Colour, but obferve 
 that the fourth time you mult ufe a clean 
 fharp Lye in order to brighten the Lufter, 
 adding one Dram of Calcined Allom. This 
 Colour may be produced from Brown-wood 
 and a quarter of a Pound of Brazil, m four 
 or five Operations, and twice adding. 
 Galls, but is not fo durable as the others 
 but to Render it more lafting, Indigo and 
 more Brown-wood may be added, and lait- 
 ly it may be Browned with Brafil, fo that 
 indeed it is feveral ways to be done. 
 
The Art of Dying. 8 i 
 
 How to Lye the fame, and other Stuffs of 
 a lofting Purple Dye. 
 
 ^Kat the Stuff may have the better 
 Luftre when Dyed, it ought, when 
 White, to be very clean and free from all 
 manner of ipots or ftains. 
 
 The Blew, 
 
 •J*He Ware muft rTrft be Dyed, to the 
 : depth of a Sky Colour, with Woad 
 or Indigo, and thendryed. 
 
 T 
 
 The Browning or deepening. 
 
 Akehalfa Pound of Brafil, boiled anddi- 
 vided into four parts, as before in the 
 Violet brown Dye, and dyed time after time 
 alfo the fame way. To the firft part of the 
 
 K,'^ r Dram , ofSalt -peter, and one 
 uram ot bal-armomack pulverized The fe-- 
 cond time add a quarter of an Ounce of pul- 
 verized Galls and half an Ounce offc 
 «ed , a fort of baftard Sandarac: The third 
 time a quarter of an Ounce of Galls, befides 
 Salt-peter and Allom, of each one Dram, and 
 a quarter of an Ounce ofCalcined Tartar: And 
 tfle fourth time aquarter of an Ounceof Pul- 
 verized Galls, a quarter of an Ounce of Tur- 
 menck,one quart of fharp Lye:Thus you will 
 find your Colour very beautiful. This Rrown 
 
 X vS P 1 Very kftin u S ' ftom &**W4 
 ^tmay alfo be done very cheap with Brown- 
 wood, but not fo laitwg. 
 
 Mow 
 
 ») 
 
 ■ 
 
• 
 
 82 The Art of Vying. 
 
 How to prepare the Indigo Dye, for the Lyt, 
 in conjunction with the Provence Blew, W 
 make it lajling for Stuffs, Silks^ Woolkn 
 and Linnen. 
 
 F:ft of all when you undertake this 
 Work, and are informed what fort 
 of Blew your Ware muft be Dyed. If it 
 muft have a deep Dye, it mutt firft be pre- 
 pared in Tartar and Vitriol, but for a light 
 Dye in Allom and Tartar. Boil three 
 Pound of Brown- wood in a Bag, in a Ket- 
 tie of Water for half an Hour, then take it 
 out and dry it, and let the Dye cool fo 
 much that you can bear your Hand m jtj 
 then ufc your Indigo and Allies (as in the 
 firft Direftion for Blew) with all the reit 
 of the ufeful and remedying Drugs from 
 Beginning to end as is direfted. 
 
 Then as follows. 
 
 \I7Hen the Blew Dye hath flood twenty 
 u . Hours, and the Indigo come to its 
 perfea ftrength, and begins to be blew; 
 what you defign for a dep Dye you oug 
 to Dye firft. and the lighter dye laft : when 
 vou have worked the dye half an Hour, 
 ihen let it reft an Hour, and fo on as long 
 as you Work it.If the Lye be too wea*, 
 you may ftrengthen it at pleafure. 
 
 Jo 
 
i 
 
 The Art of Vying, 83 
 
 To mix the Provence Mew with Woad for SiBj 
 Woollen aniLinnen Ware, and to improve 
 the blew. 
 
 IN the preparation of Woad, you have 
 been informed that it requires three Wa- 
 ters: id if you would ufe the Provence blew 
 with Woad and Indigo, in the firft Water, 
 you ought to put no Brown-wood, then 
 you muft confider how the Woad comes 
 from the Lye. 
 
 For the next Water \ boil one Pound of 
 Brown- wood in a Bag, taking care there be 
 l no Bran in the Water : In the third' Water, 
 take two Pound of Brown-wood. But if you 
 would have theDye deeper,you ought to take 
 care that the Dye be deeper in the firft Ope- 
 ration, as^ is directed in the other preparati- 
 on ^ and if it be deficient, you are inftruftecf 
 how to cure it in the Woad-preparation. 
 
 Then follows how to Dye a Piece of fifteen 
 Ells AJJhColour. 
 
 plrlt Dye it Sky Colour with Woad and 
 f Indigo, then rince it out clean and dry 
 it, then apply the following black: take 
 four Ounces of beaten Galls, one Dram of 
 burnt Allom, half a Pound of Vitriol, boil 
 theDye and the Stuffin'it for half an Hour, 
 then pais it through it, rince and dry it 5 
 then add to your Suds, three Ounces of 
 Brafil before boiled in a Skillet a parr, 
 three Quarts of (harp Lye 3 half an Ounce 
 ©r- Kock-Mtf or SalGemnfe, and you will 
 
 S 2 have 
 
 
I 
 
 K 
 
 / 
 
 §4. The Art of Dying. 
 
 have a beautiful Afh Colour. You may alfo 
 prepare this Colour brighter with Galls, 
 but if the Luftre be not good when taken 
 out of the Woad or Indigo Copper to try ^ 
 Then add four Ounces of Sumach, Six 
 Ounces of Vitriol, three Ounces of Madder, 
 three Ounces of Salt, half an Ounce of 
 Burnt Allom. Rut the firlt Afh Colour is 
 the moft beautiful and laiting^ however 'tis 
 left to your Choice, to ufe which you 
 
 ale.. 
 
 How to Dye, Silk or Wool of the Foliff) Eel 
 
 1 
 
 |f, Or every Pound of Silk take a Pail of 
 Water and warm it, put in four Oun- 
 ces of Galls Pulverized, and when it begins 
 to boil, put in your Madder, which you 
 mult proportion according to the depth 
 or Lightnefs of the Dye: Stir them together 
 and Dye the Silk, a quarter of an Hour, 
 whilit it is boiling •, then put in fome Pot- 
 atoes and Dye the Silk a quarter of an 
 Hour, rince it Out, and you have the true 
 Polifh Red. 
 
 Soot Dye or Hair Colour is prepared as fol- 
 low eth. 
 
 \\/Hen the Ware is Allomed and Dyed 
 Yellow, then take Galls, Brown-wood 
 and Madder, and therewith Dye it to an 
 Alii Colour, then add a- little CopperaSj 
 and you have the Hair Colour. 
 
 N. P-. This Dye is proper for Woolens, 
 but nor for Lumens. ?* 
 
The Art of Vying. 85 
 
 To Dye Stuff a Laffing Silver Dye. 
 
 Tin 
 
 1 
 
 nge it a half light Grey in the Woad, 
 rmce it clean and dry it, but obferve 
 
 withal that the whiter the Stuff before it is 
 
 Dyed, the brighter the Luftre. 
 
 h Z° j?^ or dee P e " K take an Ounce and 
 nait of Galls pulverized, four Ounces and 
 a half of Vitriol, half an Ounce of Sal-ar- 
 momack,a quarter of an Ounce of Salt-peter 
 two Ounces ; of Madder, and prepare them 
 as tne Aih Colour abovementioned h and if 
 you would have it incline more to the red 
 add two Ounces of boiled Brafil, two Oun- 
 ces of (harp Lye, a. quarter of an Ounce of 
 Calcined Allom and a Dram of Calcined 
 1 artar ; and it will appear very beautiful to 
 the hye. 
 
 the Stuff s to be firfl Slewed with Woad or 
 Indigo^ m a manner that is lafiivg. 
 
 1 Ake three quarters of a Pound of Tartar 
 . one Pound of Vitriol, boil the Ware in 
 it two Hours, then rince it clean, and dry 
 
 « 
 
 Blew itasjolloweth. 
 
 TF your Dye be either Woad or Indigo 
 A yet you mult give the Stuffs a dlen 
 ground, which will beitow a bright LufteT 
 tor the fecond blew, boil your Woad and 
 
 ^ 3 Brown 
 
 A 
 
$6 The Art of Vying. 
 
 Brown Wood, and blew your Ware to the 
 depth of Indigo, or to a fort of Iron 
 Gray, and after this 'tis eafy to Gall and 
 Dye it black * but the Nicety lyes in the 
 Hewing. After the blewing, the Stuff muft 
 be rinced clean and dryed again. Then fol? 
 lows 
 
 The Galling. 
 
 T Ake Six Ounces of Galls, two Ounces of 
 X Madder, a quarter of an Ounce of 
 Calcined Tartar, and therewith Gall the 
 Stuff one Hour not rinced but dryed, and then 
 Galled a fecond time, the Suds being a 
 little ftrengthened, or helped, as tollows. 
 
 The fecond Galling. 
 
 TO the remaining Suds, add half ar i Ounce 
 1 f Galls one Ounce and a half ot Mad- 
 der one Ounce of Calcined Vitriol,one Ounce 
 Syet of Gum Arabick This ^done the Stuff 
 being not yet rinced but dryed, mult be 
 
 Blackned in the Gall Liquor as follow. 
 
 BOil the Liquour, then take one Pound 
 of Vitriol firft diffolvcd in fpnng 
 Water, vhich mult be poured into the W 
 then add to the Alder black half an Oun 
 of Galls, one Ounce of Madder one Ounce 
 of white Gum, one Dram of UM 
 undafteryou have Dyed theStuff black intto 
 
The Art of Dying. 87 
 
 Dye, rince it out clean and dry it, now, as 
 well as after the fecond Blacking, which 
 muft be done as folio weth: Take half % 
 Pound of Vitriol, and immediady after- 
 wards, half an Ounce of Galls, one Dram of 
 Maftick, half an Ounce of Gum Traga- 
 canth, and both times, let the Stuff be an 
 Hour a blackening, till it , hath got a laft- 
 ing Dye, and befides all, you may, if you 
 pleale, add lome Brown-wood to give it 
 the better Lufter, and preferve it from ipoi- 
 ling. 
 
 Bow to Bye Stuffs the Sumach Bye that it 
 fiall be very hjlitig. 
 
 *J*Ake a great Veflel and put in the Eight 
 following Drugs, viz. Eight Pound of 
 Aldcr-bark, Eight Pound of Sumach, twelve 
 Pound of Oak-fhavings, nine Pound of 
 Vitriol or Copperas, two Pound of wild or 
 Baftard Marjoram, Six Pound of Iron 
 filings, as much Lye as is necefTary, Six 
 Pound of Walnutt Tree leaves, half a 
 Pound of Calcined Tartar, two Pound of Salt 
 and four Pound of fmall fhott ^ put them 
 all in, when the Water is hot, takeing care 
 the Veffel be full, and daily look'd after. 
 The Stuff muft firft be boiled in the pre- 
 paratory Suds, compofed of three quarters 
 of a Pound of Tartar, and one Pound of 
 Vitriol, for the fpace of an Hour and half 
 then rinced and dryed. 
 
 G 
 
 4 
 
 Then 
 
Y 
 
 88 The Art of Dying, 
 
 Then followeth the Galling, 
 
 *J*Ake one Pound and half of Sumach, four 
 _ Ounces of Madder, an Ounce and half 
 of Calcined Salt-peter, one Dram of Sal- 
 armoniack, an Ounce and half of Vitriol 
 half an Ounce of Calcined Tartar : Divide 
 thefe Drugs in two parts, and take two 
 parts of Galls alfo, put in the Stuffs, take 
 them out, avoid rincing the Ware and let 
 it dry, 
 
 T1?en followeth the blackening. 
 
 jplll the Sumach Copper with the prepa- 
 red Dye, twice or thrice, and for every 
 time, add four Ounces of Vitriol, two Oun- 
 ces of Sumach, one Ounce of Gum Arabick ; 
 and the laft time fuperadd, half an Ounce 
 of Gum Tragacanth, and a Dram of 
 Maftick. I have alfo boiled the Stuff with 
 Brown-wood, adding Six Ounces thereof to 
 the firft Suds, as alfo half an Ounce of Gum 
 Albanum, and one Ounce of Calcined Tartar 
 and Vitriol mixt' together, and I found 
 the Stuff of a beautiful black. 
 
 The Preparation of the Soot black Dye. 
 
 *THis Dye is prepared and worked the 
 lame way with the laft, only the In- 
 gredients are different. 
 
 The 
 
 
 
1k 
 
 The Art of Dying. $p 
 
 The Drugs of this Dye are as follow eth, 
 
 TAke fixteen Pounds of Alder-bark, 
 twelve Pound of Soot, Oak-fhavings or 
 Saw-duff * ten Pound of Vitriol, two Pound 
 of Wild Marjoram, fix Pound of Brown- 
 wood, one Pound and a half of Calcined 
 Allom and Vitriol mixed together, four 
 Pound of Filings, as much Lye as is'nece£- 
 lary, and ten Pound of Walnut-fhells if 
 you can have them : Thefe muft be all put in 
 when the Water is boiling hot, as in the 
 former Dye, the Stuff being firft of all pre- 
 pared by boiling it an Hour and half with 
 three quarters of a Pound of Tartar and 
 one Pound of Vitriol, then rinced and dryed 
 Then Galled as folio weth, with four 
 Ounces and a half of Galls, and an Ounce 
 and a half of Calcined Salt-peter and Vitri- 
 ol mixed with this Liquour. It muft be 
 tailed once only, and then take care that 
 it be not rinced, but dryed. 
 
 Then Dye it as follow eth. 
 
 fill the Kettle at two or three times 
 every time letting the Liquour boil 
 an hour, and add every time, three Oun- 
 ces of Vitriol, four Ounces of Soot, one 
 Ounce of Gumm Arabick, and the laft 
 time in particular, half an Ounce of Gumm 
 Tragacanth one Dram of Maffick and 
 half a Pound of Salt. The Stuffs may be 
 alfo blackned, with Brown-wcod to pleafe 
 
 the 
 
po The Art of Dying. 
 
 the Eye, but to either Dye, a good under* 
 Handing Artift is necefiary. The Brown- 
 wood Dye is as followeth. Take eight Oun- 
 ces of Brown-wood firft boiled, half an Ounce 
 of Gumm Albanum, one Ounce of Calci- 
 ned Salt-peter and Vitriol mixt * and you 
 have a good black. 
 
 <?*■ 
 
 > 
 
 A 
 
 1 
 
pi 
 
 A 
 
 i 
 
 Perfect Difcovery 
 
 O F T H E 
 
 ART 
 
 Of D Y I N G. 
 
 Part III. 
 Of Dying Flax and Linnen. 
 
 How to whiten Green or Grey Flax. 
 
 M 
 
 'Ake a Lye of good Afhes and 
 unflakedLime, and foak the Flax 
 in it twenty four Hours, after 
 'which add Sal-armoniack put 
 into the Middle of fbtne unflaked Lime 
 and a few warm Afhes, pour off the Water 
 and make a fharp Lye, and if you boil your 
 Flax in this Lye for an Hour or two, you 
 will find it become very white and bright, 
 and th^t your Sal-armoniack is fixed. 
 
 Note 
 
 
. m 
 
 .^v 
 
 ■™ 
 
 | 
 
 9 2 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Note that when the Flax hath been foak 
 ed in the Lye, boiled and well dryed, then it 
 muft be rinced very well in running or River 
 Water, and blewed and wrung out with the 
 Hands, and then dryed again. John Schonack 
 farther in forms us, that he knew a Perfon 
 that ufed to prepare his Flax 16 well, and 
 make it lb fine and 'loft, that it was fit to be 
 ufed in fine Camericks or Lawnes. The 
 method he took was as follows: He made a 
 very ftrong Lye, and loaked the Flax in it 
 fhow long the informer could not exaftly 
 tell) then he took it out and dryed it, and 
 afterwards rinced it in fair or frefh Water 
 then he blewed and wrung it, and laid it in 
 foak in Lye again-,and as before rinced it clean, 
 blewed and wrung it, and after that laid It 
 a third time to foak § in the Lye, rinced it 
 in frefh Water, then dryed and Combed it, 
 after all which it became as fine, foft and 
 white as Lawn. But this is only propofed 
 as an experiment worth the Tryal. 
 
 How to Dye Lbmen^ or Fujlian of a 
 Colour, 
 
 en 
 
 t'Or every Pound of Ware take two Oun- 
 x ces of Baftard or Wild Saffron, put it in 
 a bag, and difTolve it in the quantity of a 
 Pail of Water one Night, throw away the 
 Water, and take another Pail of Water, 
 take the Saffron out of the bag, and rub if 
 very well betwixt your Hands, wring it 
 clean out of the Water, ' filter the Li- 
 quor that none of the Saffron be loft, 
 
 then 
 
n 
 
 The Ait of Dying. 93 
 
 then throw it away ; repeat this Operation aS 
 oft as the Saffron leaves any Yellow Tinft- 
 ure in the Water, and when it is quite de- 
 prived of its Yellownefs, then wring it out 
 dry with your Hands : After which take a little 
 Lye made of good Beech-afhes, heat it and 
 put in your thus prepared Saffron, letting it 
 ioak five or fix Hours, then wring it out, and 
 that none may remain, filter the Lye through 
 a hair Sieve h throw away the Saffron and 
 add to the Lye an equal quantity of Beer 
 V megar, ftir it ahout very well, then put 
 m your Pound of Ware, leave it in the Li- 
 quour three or four Hours, and then rince it 
 clean out -,and you will find it of a very good 
 Crimfon Flefh Colour: But obferve the 
 Ware miift be frequently ffirred about to 
 prevent its being flaked and unequally 
 
 m manner of mating a Fatt, and preparing 
 hot Suds to Dye Linnen and Woolen blew. 
 
 pirft make a Fatt big enough to contain 
 * Iixteen Pails of Water, wide at the top 
 and narrow at the bottom, feafbn it with 
 hot Water for twentyfour Hours, and then 
 waft it out with cold Water, then cut a 
 nole ot a quadrilateral form about twenty- 
 one Inches high, and fourteen broad : then 
 prepare a Copper Plate of the fame thick- 
 nefs with the Wood of theFatt: which nail 
 upon the hole, placing the Nails abou 
 two fingers breadth from one another 
 taking care alfo that they be fmall, vvkh 
 
 broad 
 
 
1* 
 
 £4 Fhe Art of Vying. 
 
 iroad heads, to prevent any leakage •, then 
 clap an Iron Hoop at the top, and another 
 at the bottom of the Copper. The hole 
 muft be made about a Hand-breadth from 
 the bottom of the Fatt. This done, Plaifter or 
 Brick it about, either leaving or making a 
 hole in the Plaifter or Brick-work, wider at 
 the outmoft end fanda little narrower atthat 
 which comes to the CopperJ then the 
 Copper it felf ^ its fhape being like an Ovens 
 mouth, that the Wood be not injured when 
 the fire to heat the Fatt of Suds, is put in- 
 to this vacancy. Then for every Pound of 
 Indigo, in order to blew Linnen>or Woollen, 
 Take fixteen Pails of Water, into which 
 put twelve good Hand-fuls of coarfe Whea- 
 ten-bran, Half or three quarters of a Pound 
 of Madder, and three. Pound of Pot-aflics-, 
 pour them all into a Copper to make Suds: 
 and when the Liquor boils fo as to begin 
 to fwell, and bubble up, throw in half 2 
 Pail-full of cold Water, and take the fire 
 from under the Copper : then take a Hand- 
 ful or two of good Lime, prepared as the 
 Tanners ufe ir, and Plaifter the infide of the 
 empty Fat with it, then pour all the Ingre- 
 dients out of the Kettle into it, and cover it 
 very clofe. The Day before you do thisjou 
 muft take care to dhfolve your Indigo in two 
 or three quarts of Water, in a clean Iron 
 Brafs VeffeL fupperadding a Hand-lul 01 
 Wheaten-bran, a Ladle-full of Madder an 
 one Ounce of Potatoes h leaving it a w# 
 Night by a Coal fire, but not fufFenng it 
 boil, or grow warmer than you can b» . 
 
:¥ 
 
 The Art of Dying. £5 
 
 your Hand in it, but grinding it with a Peftle 
 till it becomes as loft as Pap, and is quite 
 cleared of all roughnefs or harfhnefs, upon 
 which it is fit to be put into theFatt to theother 
 ingredients. This done, ftir it about three 
 or *four times with a Stick, then cover it dole 
 and let it fettle for twelve Hours, after 
 which, take off the Cover and put in a 
 quarter of an Ounce of Quick-filver, ftir 
 it about and cover it as before , letting 
 it fettle for fix Hours •, then throw in 
 a good Ladle- ful of Lime duit or Powder, 
 or of the fame as the Fatt was before Piai- 
 ftered withal, ftir it about and cover it 
 clofe, letting it ftand three yours longer h 
 then put in an Ounce of Pot-afhes, ftir it 
 well about again, and clap a Coal fire in 
 the hole before the Copper Plate, in order 
 to keep it warm, letting it ftand yet three 
 Hours longer after which, nothing is to be 
 added, only ftir it as before, and in an Hour 
 or two after, you may Dye with it as fol- 
 lows. Hang the ten Pieces of Ware in it 
 keeping the Bran and flower, &c. from it with 
 your Hand, to prevent its Touching the 
 Linnen as much as poffible •, wring the ten 
 Pieces out, one againft another, then try by 
 feeling with your Finger whether the Dye be 
 harfh or foft and fmooth, if it feels too 
 rough throw in an Ounce of Pot-afhes and 
 if it be too fmooth add a Ladle-full of 
 Lime. When you have worked the Stuffs 
 "^ Hours, put in ten ftefh Pieces 
 which Work as the former, and when they 
 are dry, wring them a fccond or ihixd time 
 
 in 
 
 %$* 
 
 % 
 
# 
 
 $6 The Art of Dying. 
 
 in the Dye, till they become of a Colour 
 as deep as you defire them. 
 
 Work your Dye in this manner, till you 
 have dyed fixty Pieces, after which, if you 
 would Dye any Woollen Ware, Stockings, 
 Worlted or Yarn: Take two or three Palls-* 
 ful of Water, into which put three Hand- 
 fulls of Wheaten Bran, two Ounces of 
 Madder, and half a Pound of Pot-afhes, 
 hang it over the Fire and boil it to Suds, 
 as before ^ then pour it into the Fatt, and 
 after ftirring it well about, let it fettle for 
 fix Hours, after which Itir it again, then 
 let it ftand to fettle three Houres ^ try with 
 your Finger vghether it is harfh or fmooth, 
 if too harih, add an Ounce of Pot-afhes-, 
 5f too fmooth,put to it a Ladle-ful of Lime 5 
 ftirring it about again. When you defign 
 to Dye'Woollen Ware alone, without Lin- 
 nen, prepare a Liquor of a fiifficient quan- 
 tity of hot Water, one Hand-ful of Madder, 
 and one or two Hand-fulls of Wheaten 
 Bran, boil them together, and wet your 
 Woollen or Silken Manufactures therein^ 
 and after letting them drop as long as they 
 will, put them into the' abovementioned 
 Dye Fatt, keeping them there till they are 
 become of as deep a Colour as you would 
 liave them. If you would dye your Goods 
 Green, .you muft firft dye them Yellow 
 with Broom or Dyers Weed, otherwife cal- 
 led Yellow Weed •, after which put them 
 into the abovementioned Blew Fatt ^ but 
 withal, oblerve that they ought not to be 
 
 .^•vetted in theMadder Water, as the Blew <- 
 
 bur 
 
The Art of Vying. <?j 
 
 but take them out of the Fat, as foon as 
 they are fufficiently Dyed, always taking Care 
 that you do not Dye above half a Dozen 
 pair of Stockens, or a proportionate quan- 
 tity of other Woollen Ware, before you put 
 in your Linnen; which as foon as you have 
 put in the Fat, ought to be covered cloie 
 for half an Hour, then wring the Goods well 
 about, let it fettle half an Hour, wring it a- 
 bout, again and draw it out. Stir your Dye 
 again, very well, adding Lime or Por-aftes* 
 according as it wants either, after which, let 
 it fettle for two Hours, then put in other 
 Ware to Dye, and work it as before, ftirrW 
 it every two Hours : If you find the Liquor 
 doth not Dye or work well, let it reft a Thy 
 and Night, keeping the Fire to it all the 
 while, and add one Ounce of Fccnuereek 
 pulverized, and ftir it well about, and the 
 Dye will come to its felf again. If you 
 have fo many things to Dye, that you have 
 occahon to augment the quantity of Indigo 
 to two or three Pound, yet you need not 
 make your Madder, Fot-affi and Bran-Li- 
 quor ltronger than what is above prefcribed 
 to one Pound: 
 
 
 To Dye Linnen Green. 
 
 T k U l a whoIe Ni S ht in ftron g Allorrt 
 
 ^ t£ dr y k well > then take Broom 
 or Dyers Weed, boil itthefpace of anHour 
 atter which, take it out and put into the Suds 
 half or a whole Ounce of Verdigreafe, accord- 
 ing as you have more or lefs Ware to Dye - 
 
 H ftir 
 
p8 The Art of Vying. ! 
 
 ftir it very well about with a Stick, then 
 work theLinneninit, once, twice or thrice, 
 as Occafion requires, adding the fecond and 
 / third time a quantity of Pot-aihes equal to a 
 Hens Egg, then work your Linnen the third 
 time and you will find it of a Yellow Colour; 
 which dry in the Air, and afterwards rhrow 
 it into the Blew Fat abovementioned, and 
 that will produce your defired Green. 
 
 How to Bye Woollen, Silk, Worjlei tr Tan, 
 of a Fleffi Colony. 
 
 F -crate two Pails-full of iharpLye from 
 a Handful of Beech Allies twice boiled; 
 into one of the Pails, throw _ one Pound ol 
 Pot-aihes, and hear the Lye in a brais Ket- 
 tle, and when the Pot-afties are diflolved, 
 ftir the Liquor very well; ft* r upthefin; 
 and then put in one Pound of Flocks or 
 Shreds of Madder Red dyed Cloath, hang 
 ir over the Fire, let it boil fometime,atd 
 ftir ir about with a Wooden Inftrument; 
 then fill it up with the" remaining by; 
 made boiling hor, always taking care to keep 
 it boiling and ftirring, and a full hour ate 
 fill ir up again with Lye, then fcum it dear, 
 , and as it boils away for three Hours, fill « 
 with ftale Urine : all which being carefu 
 ly done, pafs a Thread of Yarn through, 
 and Draw it through your linger; too 
 amine whether there is any Hair hangs to , 
 and if it doth , put in one quarter ot » 
 Ounce of Pulverized Turmenck «ir 
 about very well, and try with tltf ^ 
 
 
The Art of Dying. p$ 
 
 "Thread again, whether it takes as good a 
 Red as you defire. If you would Dye your 
 Ware of & Beautiful Orange Colour, 'then 
 pour half your Dye into another Fat, and 
 put into it your Ware, Dyed before Yellow 
 with Broom or Dyers Yellow Weed •, and in 
 the remaining Part of the Dye, you may 
 put your White Goods ( which by the way 
 mult not be Allomed ) covering it very dole, 
 that no Steem evaporate till it be cold: 
 Then throw about two Pails-full of Spring 
 Water into a Tub, and rince both your Co- 
 lours very well therein,dry andPrefs them,and 
 then rince them again in Spring Water. If you 
 would have a very Beautiful Flefli Colour, 
 hang your Kettle fwhict mull be of Brafsj 
 again over the Fire, boil the Dye to Suds, 
 and put in your Ware, leaving it there till 
 it be cold, then rince it in the fame Water 
 which you have before, but remember 
 to take efpecial Care, that you do not mix 
 the Orange and Flefli Colours together. 
 
 If you would Produce a Lighter Orange 
 Colour, hang the Dye again over the Fire,- 
 put in your Yellow Dyed Ware, and let it 
 continue in till it becomes cold, then rince 
 it as the Flefli Colour before. 
 
 If you would produce a Lighter Flefli 
 Colour, then boil the Dye again to Suds, 
 and threw in your White Ware as before, 
 and rince it out*, and fo if vou would Dye' 
 a Light Gold Colour, &c. do" it as before, and 
 
 Take the Water, wherein you have rin- 
 ced your former Ware, and boil or heat it 
 thin put in the quantity of a Pigeons Egg 
 
 H 2 of 
 
 

 ioo The Art of Vying. 
 
 of Allom, after which put in your Ware, 
 that is either Dyed Blew or Yellow, letting 
 it continue therein till it be cold, and then 
 rince it out. 
 
 If you have other Colours to Dye, you 
 may follow the fame Rule with difcre- 
 tion. 
 
 A Crimfou Bye for an Ounce of Tarn or 
 Worftei. 
 
 I^Ake of Roch Allom, Pulverized, one 
 Ounce, of White Wine Tartar Pulve- 
 rized, two Ounces, of Yellow Oaker Pulve- 
 rized, four Ounces, of Litharge of Silver, 
 two Ounces, and of Aquafortis, two Oun- 
 ces and half • to all which add two Pain- 
 full of Water, and boil them together for 
 an Hour and a quarter, then Wafh them 
 out with Frefh Water, and Scour the Ket- 
 tle with Sand, then put them in again, and 
 add to them two Ounces of White Wine 
 Tartar, two Pails full of Water, two Ounces 
 of White Arfenick, diffolved in a little Wa- 
 ter, and two Ounces of Cochineal ^firit boil l 
 them together, then add one Ounce o 
 Aquafortis, and fo let them boil again till 
 the Dye comes to its proper Colour. 
 
 To Dye Lhmen Thread Blew. 
 
 ■•COr every fix Pound of Thread, take half 
 x an Ounce of Allom, five Ounces or 1 ar- 
 tar, two quarts of fharp Lye, and as 10°" 
 as it boils, put in your Thread and let it W* 
 
I* 
 
 The Art of Dying. 101 
 
 therein four Hours, then rince or pafs it 
 through frefh Water : 
 
 And afterwards Bye it Blew $ 
 
 With a Found of boiled Brown-wood, 
 three quarters of an Ounce of Ver- 
 digreafe Pulverized, one Quart of fharp Lye, 
 two Ox or Cowes Galls, half an Ounce of 
 Calcined Tartar, half an Ounce of Calcin- 
 ed White Vitriol h put in the thread at 
 twice, fo that you may Dye it light or deep 
 arpleafure; and then the Thread having 
 nrft lain two Hours in the Woad Lye, 
 muft be rinced ©lean out. If it be put 
 into this Dye, when it is cold, it becomes 
 much brighter and blewer than when it is 
 boiling hot 5 but the moft lading Dye for 
 Thread is performed with Woad : But if 
 you would Dye it in the Indigo Copper 
 you ought toufe the fame preparation Suds' 
 as m this Dye, and the Colour will be du- 
 rable h and laftly, the Thread Dyed with 
 Indigo, ought to be rinced through Warm 
 Water, in order to give it the beteer 
 Luitre. 
 
 To Dye Thread of a lajlivg Green, 
 
 TAke three Quarters of a Pound of At 
 lorn, half a Pound of Tartar, two 
 Quarts of (harp Lye, boil them together 
 tor an Hour, and foak your Thread therein 
 thrje Hours, keeping it hot all the while. 
 
 
 H ? 
 
 Then 
 
p 
 
 10 2 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Then Dye it Jellow ^ 
 
 * in Latin Cbryfan- \T7Ith eight Pound of 
 them andotherwiiecal- V\ v rnnm one pound 
 
 led in Engiith Golden firoom, one rouna 
 
 Flowers or wild Man- f Com Mangold 
 
 s old - Flowers, half a Pound of 
 
 Crab-tree-bark, that looks Yellow and ripe-,. 
 • which put into the Kettle, and fuperadd 
 two Quarts of lharp Lye, boil them half 
 an Hour, then Dye the Thread in the Li- 
 quor, as deep a Yellow as poflible, but if 
 Vi fuppofc spamjh you can get any * Spa* 
 Broom. nip Yellow, an addition 
 
 of three quarters of a Pound of it, will 
 heighten the Dye, and render it more laft- 
 jng -, for 'tis to be conlidered. that all Yel- 
 lows defign'd to be Dyed Green, muft be 
 be as deep as Poflible. 
 
 After which turn it Green with the Blew Dye, 
 
 A S in thelaft foregoing&eceipt, fo that you 
 *rV may turn it to a light or dark Green 
 at rieafure. There are four Operations in Dy- 
 ing a good Green, for firft you may Blew 
 the Thread with Woad, or elfe with Indigo, 
 being firft thrown into the Allom Suds, and 
 afterwards in the Yellow, and you will have 
 a lafting Green. So that Green is to be 
 Dyed feverai ways. 
 
 How 
 
 
•to' 
 
 The Art of Dying. 103 
 
 How to Bye Thread another fort of Green. 
 
 Fill your Kettle with fharp Lye, then 
 throw in a bundle of Broom, let them 
 boil very well, then decant the Liquor in- 
 to a Fatt, and for every Pound and half 
 of Thread, take half an Ounce of Verdi- 
 greafe, and half an Ounce of Allom, put 
 them in a Quart of Lye, wherein Brown 
 Brafii-wood hath been boiled, ftir them toge- 
 ther, and pour them into the Broom Water, 
 then lay the Thread one Night in foak in this 
 mixt Liquor, and you will find it well Dyed- 
 
 How to Bye Green Thread Black. 
 
 T 
 
 Ake a Prcfper quantity of fharp Lye h 
 into which put three quarters of a 
 Pound of Brown Brafil-wood, boil them 
 together, then pour the Liquor into a Fatt 
 and put into it one Ounce of Gum 
 Arabick, one Ounce of Allom, one Ounce 
 of Verdigreafe, then put in the Green 
 Thread, and leave it in it the fpace of one 
 whole Night, and it will become BlacL 
 
 How to Bye a Silver Bye. 
 
 *J"0 Dye a pair of Stockens, take Six 
 Galls, a like weight of Gum- Arabick, 
 as alfo the fame weight of Allom, with a 
 fmall quantity of Brown Brafil-wood \ 
 boil them in Rain Water, then cool the 
 btockens out of the Liquor three times. 
 
 H4 To 
 
 & 
 
w 
 
 104 The Art of Vying. 
 
 To Dye Thread of a Lofting Violet Colour. 
 
 HTAke half a Pound of Tartar, half a 
 Pound of Mom, two Ounces of Brafil- 
 wood, half an Ounce of Salt-peter, boil 
 them together, then lay the Thread four 
 Hours in the Liquor, after which rince it 
 : <>ut and dry. it. And 
 
 /* Then Brown it 3 
 
 Vl/Ith one Pound of Brown-wood, half 
 a. Pound of Brafil boiled "in a large 
 Veflel, which Dye is thus to be ufed : Di- 
 vide it into four equal Parts, ftill Obferv- 
 ing, that each Part muft always be ufed 
 Warm, and the Thread dryed after each 
 Operation, and when you : ufe the firft 
 Part, add to it half an Ounce of Sumach, 
 one Dram of Salt-peter^ the fecond time 
 a quarter of an Ounce of Calcined Tartar, 
 and one Dram of Pulverized Verdigreafe; 
 the third time a quarter of an Ounce of 
 Sumach,' a,nd one Dram of Salt-peter h and 
 the laft time if the Thread remains a lit- 
 tle Reddifh, pour in a Quart of hot fharp Lye, 
 and you will find it of a Beautiful Violet 
 Brown: But if the Thread be boiled in 
 AUorn and Blewed with Woad , and then 
 browned with Brafil, you will have a more 
 . autiful and lafting Colour. 
 
 To 
 
The Art of Dying* 105 
 
 To Dye Thread \ a Purple Colour, 
 
 J?Irft Allom it with three Pound of Allom, 
 
 half a Pound of Tartar, and two Ounces 
 
 of Brafil, dry it, draw it through the Woad 
 
 or Indigo Dye, then rince it clean and dry it 
 
 again 5 then to brown or deepen it, take three 
 
 quarters of a Pound of Brafil, firft boiled ; 
 
 the Liquor whereof divide into three Parts, 
 
 to be ufed at three times. To the firft add 
 
 half an Ounce of *"2W * A forcof baftard 
 
 red, one Dram of Maftick, sandarac, 
 
 a quarter of an Ounce of Calcined Tartar, 
 
 always taking care to dry the Thread, after 
 
 you have ufed any one of the Parts of the 
 
 Liquor-, the fecond time, add half an Ounce 
 
 of Turmerick, two Drams of Cinnabar 
 
 and half an Ounce of Gum Arabick - y the 
 
 'third time, when the Thread becomes Red- 
 
 difh, add a quart of fharp Lye, and by 
 
 this means you will have your Thread 
 
 Dyed, of a lafting Colour, 
 
 To Dye Thread Tellow. 
 
 TAke Eight Pound of Broom, one 
 Pound of Spanijk* Yel- 
 low, one Pound of Crab- * Eroom ' 
 tree rind, and one Pound of Corn Mari- 
 golds 5 ; put them into a Kettle with three 
 Quarts of fharp Lye, and boil them toge- 
 ther, and Work your Thread in the faid 
 Liquor three times Succeffively, not fuffer- 
 m it to dry between whiles, and you 
 
 will 
 
 
 m 
 
io6 The Art of Dying. 
 
 will have a beautiful and lafting Co- 
 lour. 
 
 An Obfervation. 
 
 Concerning a Particular fort of Chermes, or 
 Scarlate Berries, Peculiarly and Advanta.-* 
 gioujly ttfed in Poland, in deep Red Dyes. 
 
 IN the firft Part of this Book of Dying, 
 we have mentioned a fort of Chermes 
 Berries, to be found in the Territories of 
 the Margrave of Brandenburg: Which Af- 
 fertion was grounded upon a certain Infor- 
 mation, that the Author of theObfervations 
 had received about thirty Years paft, import- 
 ing that an Herb Woman at Anfpach, com- 
 monly called the Flower Woman, ufed 
 YeMy to. gather a Quantity of Chermes- 
 Berries, and the Author is of Opinion, that 
 thefe Berries are to be found upon feveral . 
 Plants, in divers Places of Germany, as 
 well as in Poland^ tho 3 they are not yet 
 fufficiently known, nor can I any longer fee 
 any Reafon to doubt, that thofe Berries 
 gathered in the Margravate of Brandenburg, 
 were the fame which we intend to enlarge 
 upon, which I hope may Contribute at 
 leaft a Mite to the Publick Good. 
 
 To go the fhorteft way to Work 1 1 am 
 of Opinion that thefe Berries are. nothing 
 elfe, but thofe which the People, in Roman 
 Catholick Countries, go out to gather on 
 St. Johns Day, and which they find upon 
 a frnall fort of Plant or Grafs ( very well 
 known to theirO and called St. Johns 
 Blood, which they colle&for a fuperftiti- 
 
 ous 
 
 
The Art of Dying. 107 
 
 ousend. This I take the Liberty to offer to 
 the Inquifitive Naturalift to improve-, tho' 
 no # t without the Authority offeveral Learned 
 Men, to back my Affertion 5 from whence 
 we may Reafbnably infer, that an advan- 
 tagious life may be made of them. Camera- 
 rius, in his Epitomy of Matthiolus, mentions 
 them, as doth alio Cajp Bauhimis in his 
 Notes upon the fame Author, and in his 
 Pinax, but Dr. George Segre^ and Dr. 
 Martin Bernhard a Bernitz^ in the firft and 
 third Year of the A&a &c. informs us more 
 largely on this Subjecl, wherefore I have 
 thought fit to offer what they fay. 
 
 And firft'of all, there is nothing more re- 
 markable, than that thefe little Berries if 
 gathered when they come to be fbft, tho 5 
 the Sunfhine be fb far from Hot, that 
 it fcarce affords a Warmth, and laid in the 
 Air a Day or two, you find perfect Worms 
 growing in them. ' Of the remaining Tin- 
 Sure, our frrft Author takes no Notice, but 
 Bernitz Treats more at large -on this Sub- 
 jeS, of which take the following extraft. 
 
 Polygoniim^m EngUJb Knot-grafs, is very 
 well known to be of two forts, viz. large 
 and fmall, and there are different forts of 
 each , tho 3 they are not commonly apply- 
 ed to any partic ular life. Camerarhts men- 
 tions one fort of it, under the Name of 
 Polygonum Polomcum Cocciferum^ f. e. the 
 Chermes Berry Knot Grafs ; and is follow- 
 ed by Baithinus^ in the Defcription of the 
 fame Plant. Thefe Berries are neither the 
 Seed, nor Natural production of the Plant, 
 
 but 
 
 
/ 
 
 f. 
 
 1 08 The Art of Dying. 
 
 but rather a fort of accidental Appendage 
 to the Root, for all Plants of the very fame 
 Identical Species do not produce them, they 
 being only found, hanging to fome of the 
 Roots 5 and the Production of thefe Berries 
 ieems indeed to depend upon the Soil, the 
 time of the Year, and the benignity of the Sea- 
 ion - becauie for want of thefe, 'tis Obfera- 
 ble, that every Year doth not Yeild them 
 They are of a Blood or deep Red Colour, 
 in file not unlike Hemp-feed, but perfectly 
 Globular ^ they contain a Blood Coloured 
 Juice, and a Worm of the lame Colour^ which 
 fort of Worms Hermolaus upon Diofcorides ) 
 Affirms Tinctured Silks of an UuparallePd 
 Beautiful Red , Scarlate or Purple •, and 
 that their Tinfhiral Virtue, was at firft ac- 
 cidentally difcovered, by OMerving that the 
 Hens which Eat of them, always voided 
 very high Coloured excrements. 5 Tis 
 worth inferring what out Learned Author 
 faith, of the Word Carmajin 2. e. Crimfon-, 
 that it leems a coruption of Carbajin, which 
 is likewife efteemed the principal Silk Dye* 
 but what teems to invalidate this derivation, 
 is, that the Name of Chermes, rather ap- 
 pears to be given to thefe Berries by the 
 Arabians, than the Greeks, fince he informs 
 us, that in the Fh&nician Tongue, the Worm 
 was called Chermes. It is not reafonable to 
 imagine, that the Arabians were ignorant of 
 the Nature of the Berries, when they gave 
 them the durableName of Chermes,by which 
 they are at prefent called-, for that the fame 
 thing is at prelent called by the fameName,or 
 
 to 
 
 
to 
 
 The* Art of Vying. iop 
 
 to fibeak more clearly, that it is become its 
 moft lafting and univerfal Name, is notori- 
 oufly evident. 
 
 The Common People in Germany call 
 them St. John's Blood, becauie they appear 
 at the Summer Solftice, which always hap- 
 pens not long before or after St Jobn's-day. 
 The name of PoliJI) Purple Berries, was un- 
 doubtedly occafion'd from their being found 
 in greater plenty in that Country than in o- 
 thers, and their peculiar and advantagious 
 life of them in Dying, to which end they 
 feem firft, and more particularly to be uled 
 hy the Eaftern Countries, adjacent to Pol 
 land. 
 
 Bernitz particularly obferveth, That they 
 are found in greateft abundance about War- 
 faw^ and more elpecially in the very Field 
 where the Coronation of their King is 
 commonly Celebrated h that they grow in 
 fandy Grounded in great plenty in Ukrania 
 and peculiarly in the largeft and moft 
 find/ Deferts v that the Crown General 
 Komtz Poltzky, and others of the Polifi No- 
 bility, whole Seignories lay in fuch Lands, 
 uled to fell them to the Jem h who always 
 gathered diem at the proper Seafon, and 
 made their Market of them. Thefe Berries 
 are generally gathered by poor People, ao- 
 poanted thereto in the following manner. 
 1 ney hold up the little plant with the one 
 Hand and with the other, by theaffiftance 
 of a Ho ow Trowel made for that purpofe 
 they pull up th e root whole, and undamal 
 ged, from which they firft feparate the £ 
 
 dy 
 
 ■ 
 
 I 
 
 - 
 
B 
 
 no The Art of Dying. 
 
 dy Earth, and then gather the Berries •, and 
 as loon as th2t is done 5> clap the root 
 into the Ground again immediately, 
 which is certainly a very prudent and 
 advantagious way, for no doubt but it re* 
 mains prolifick, or at leaft fheds its feeds, 
 and produceth another in the place. When 
 the Worms contained in thele Berries come 
 to maturity, they eat their way through, 
 and leave their Berries, in effect, nothing 
 but clear empty Husks. The People ap. 
 pointed for this Work, leleft the largeft fort 
 of thele Wormsr as they flowly march out 
 of their Husks, and very carefully dry them, 
 and leifurely make them into balls, which is 
 much better than the leiTer fort,and affords 
 twice as much Colour and is therefore fold 
 confiderably dearer. Our Author further af- 
 firms •, That this Drug is chiefly fold to their- 
 ?neman and TnrkiJI? Merchants,thofe Nations 
 Dying their Woollen and Silken Manufactures 
 therewith, as alfo their Leather, but efpeci- 
 ally that fort called Saphian : With it they 
 alfo dye their Hair Work, and FlocktTapi- 
 {tries, of a Beautiful Red, as they do like- 
 wife their Horfe-tails. This Author alfo 
 obferves, That the Hollanders buy great 
 quantities of this commodity, at a great rate, 
 at Dantzkk, which is a confiderable Market 
 for it-, and withal, that the Dutch are Wont 
 to mix an equal quantity of it -with their 
 Cochineal before they ufe it, which not on- 
 ly heightens the Dye, and renders it more 
 agreeable $ but makes it take better upon 
 the Ware; Cochineal of its felf being too 
 Paly, When 
 
The Art of Dying. in 
 
 When the Berries are gathered, they 
 moiften them with Vinegar, or very frefh 
 cold Well Water, in order to kill the Worms ; 
 when that is done, they immediately dry 
 them, either in a moderate Stove, or Oven, or 
 in a hot Sun, taking care withal, that they 
 be not too dry, which thole employed iri 
 this Work are very skilful to difcern. 
 
 Our Author alfo tells us, not only that 
 the Ruffian Painters, prepared a very 
 Beautiful Red or Purple Colour with 
 this Ingredient, and Vinegar or Limon 
 Juice, but that the beautiful Red Lake is 
 prepared from it. And what is moft re- 
 markable, he afferts it for a certainty h that 
 the Colour lb much at prefent in efteem, 
 and which is fold at fo dear a rate, called 
 Carmine, is prepared by^ the Jews and Arme? 
 mans in Per/ia, from this very Drug, which 
 they import there from Foreign Countries ^ 
 that a great part of the Preparation, agrees 
 with the Magiftery of Chermes Berries de- 
 scribed by Zwelfcr: He alfo affirms, that as 
 well the fo well known Spanijb Wool, as the 
 Cofmetick which comes immjwfy called 
 lezzette dz Levanters a mixture of this ingre- 
 dient andLimon Juice,and particularly of this 
 ivedj ulce prepared from the dryed Berries. 
 What he faith concerning the Medicinal 
 Virtue of thefe Berries, that it is the iame 
 with the other, feems reafonable enough • 
 but what he talks of the diverfit* confift- 
 ing more in the*diverfity of the fignature 
 and Colour and than the Nature, I ffiall at 
 prefent omit. 5 
 
 : Tis 
 
\. S K.~ 1 
 
 ii2 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Tis not to be doubted that as this plant 
 grows more peculiarly in dryfandy De« 
 ferts, and unprofitable Lands, fo we may 
 hope for abetter improvement of it than 
 hath hitherto been^ and that it may be one 
 Day let on Foot, as well as feveral other ne- 
 deffary things, in' order to help our poor 
 Country ^ or at leaft prevent the Expor- 
 tation of fo much Money for Foreign Com- 
 modities, which in time may be kept at 
 home, an Inftance of which we have, in 
 the improving Oiiers and Woods,that was at 
 firft derided, and indeed lb it will be as long 
 as any body is left to fpeak againft a good 
 defign. 
 
 
 
 
& 
 
 >/ioa*d ^//- ,r 3 
 
 A 
 
 Perfect Defer iption* 
 
 F 
 
 Pot and Woad-Afhes, 
 
 THEIR 
 
 Goodnefs, Duration and Prefemtion 
 
 with feveral Proofs and InfeuflK 
 how to chufe the beft Sorts 
 
 Written for the Information of the T ™^7 
 of the Noble A _ RT_pf; p iy r N r? ' 
 
 A Direaion. 
 *&» to/*&e rtgfr /p w ^ #^^ M 
 
 F h L fhe al Lft e M and »*& 
 are the belt ; and that the Reader 
 may be throughly enabled to df 
 itmguifli aright on +h;± ^ t - 7T 
 wherein confilts thedfynefs fnS Id W' 
 f the Allies, we fhall i^fe^ 
 £. the Drynefe 2 . the Weight f £ i"' 
 Moiftnefi.4. ^ Aired, ? . the h- ? 
 and 6 the twice dryed Afhes Drowfled > 
 
 As lor the weight we mull nari-;™ i , 
 %ve, what fort g of Tubs KS^ 
 
 hom 
 
 m 
 
The Art tf Dying. 
 
 114 
 
 from whence a judgement is to be made of it, 
 viz. the Width, the Length, the Thin- 
 ners of the Wood, and the number of Staves 
 with which the Barrels are made. 
 
 The Height and Width may be meafured 
 with a Leather Girdle, and the exafl Men- 
 f'uration of the Barrel will enable you to 
 make a judgement of the Goodnefs of the 
 Afhes therein contained. But molt efpecial 
 regard muft be had ro the Width, becaufc 
 'tis of greateft importance , an Inch in the 
 Width, containing more Allies than a Hand- 
 breadth in the Height: For Initance take 
 two Fatts, fet them next each other and fall 
 them full of Allies, after which empty them 
 keeping the Allies by themlelves, take 
 them both to Pieces and of the Planks 
 make one Fatt, and it will be found to hold 
 four oftheorher Farts: Andtho thisfeems 
 Improbable to i'uch as are Ignorant of the 
 Mathematicks, yet thofe acquainted • with 
 that Science know it is Demonstrable. 
 
 For Example; take a round or Iquare 
 Veffel of Fifteen Inches, and Multiply it by 
 its lelf vk.. Fifteen, and the Produft w 
 be two Hundred Twenty five Inches: But 
 take a Barrel of Twenty one Inches Wide, 
 3 Multiply it by it lelf, and you will 
 fifd XTSa four Hundred Forty one 
 Inches, which is very near double: A th 
 Reafon holds good in a Square, in prog 
 tion ro its Diameter, io in P^P. 01 ^ 
 it doth in the Circumference of a Barrel. Art 
 as we have before Obferved, thelh.nnefs 
 Thickneisof the Staves whereof the V eiW » 
 
 
i 
 
 4 
 ft 
 
 Pi 
 
 The Art of Dying* 1 i 5 
 
 ♦ made, occafions a very great Alteration in 
 the quantity of Afhes, as you may Obfente 
 when a thin Barrel is empty, that it is much 
 Wider than a thick one of the fame fee, 
 and Confequently will told a Larger quan- 
 tity of Afhes, than you could Believe before 
 you try the Difference, and confequently 
 the Weight is increafed, as it hath fome- 
 times happened, near a Third part. 
 . k nave before hinted fomewhat concer- 
 ing the Number of Staves. I need not fay 
 much more concering that, flnce, 'tis evi- 
 dant that a Barrel muft be Larger or Ids 
 
 n^rS rC « fer l nce ? a £ ordi "3 3s it is com- 
 pofed of Six, Eight, Ten or Twelve Staves. 
 So having faid enough of the Barrels 
 come we now to fpeak of the Afhes 
 therein contain*, their Nature and Sub- 
 
 ssftsas^ the judgment ° f 
 
 Whet fort ofjfits are bejl and Strmgeft. 
 
 7" H °ie Afhes are efteemed bell, 'which 
 
 when you thruft your Knife into the 
 
 £ h ' nck ;° f , t ^ Barrel, are found of a Stony 
 
 or hard Subffance, f that if you try them 
 
 gamlt them, it Sounds as if it were ftrucl*- 
 againft the Stones in the Street : When un 
 
 £KW BarreI ^ mes are s 
 
 hard, and flicking together in Lumps like 
 Sea Cole, or come out in the ih*Z 
 
 fj h ! W Wh0le ' wdl feck togeX 
 and as if they were preffed togetheTor 
 
 2 eome 
 
 m 
 
! i 16 The Art of Vying. 
 
 come out in great Knobs, which the larger 
 they are the better the Afhes, Thus much 
 for the Hardnefs. As for the foft Allies we 
 ought Cheifly in our choice to take care of 
 the Drynefs, weight and thicknefs of the 
 Barrels, that they be faft Packed and Stick 
 together in knobs, as wemallfliewmoteat 
 latge, when we come to tilk ; of the Soap- 
 boilers Alhes. 
 
 Of the Colour of the heft Jjlies. 
 
 THe Colour of the belt Alhes is always a 
 1 fine blew or Sky Colour. The manner of 
 examining the Colour is as follows, va. by 
 throwing a piece of very fine white Cloth 
 c 5 Crap!, over the Afhes, and if rhe Allies 
 appear %f a Beautiful .blew through _ the 
 rlrn Cloth, and the whitenefs of theCloth 
 clainly appears as fpread over the Allies, 
 £ a Satisfactory proof that you have the 
 beft and fineft Afhes. This fort is ufed in 
 Linnen Manufacture \nSraband and by the 
 thread Bleachers, and is generally the fa - 
 ceft fort, and bears the higheft P«f 5 , wh "J 
 indeed I am apt to think, it would always- 
 do S came in as great plenty as the oth , 
 Waufe of its beautiful Colour, and that t 
 Sowed with all the Virtues of the - 
 thSom, and befides is not only ht to g 
 iLuftre to Linnen andotherManufacfure, 
 but may alfo be ufed advantag.oufly to all 
 other uies. 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 ny 
 
 er 
 
 Of the Bleachers Jjhes of Holland and oth 
 
 Watry Lands, 
 
 ^He Diftinaicn betwixt rhefe and tlxe for- 
 mer Afties, Is more cuftomary than profi- 
 table h The Dwtcft Bleachers buying one in.- 
 itead of the other, and preferring the latter to 
 theiormer: buttho 3 the latter are .onetimes 
 w thinner Barrels, and more git tineas than 
 theiormer, yet in weight a lirengtk they 
 .can by no means be comp with cliem.' 
 
 Of Scouring Jfies. 
 
 V 
 
 
 'Here are feveral forts of thefe flight Aftes 
 but none of them are fo much like the belt' 
 fort, inany thing as Colour, which is a Grey 
 deep Blew, and if they were alike in Virtue 
 •Weight, Barrels and Packing, vet there 
 would remain this difference, that this 
 
 fhSS'S 5 9?T> andofa dee P Blew, and as 
 ilie heft Sky Colour'd Afhes are covered with 
 
 %&i WIllte ! ft CoIour ' fo thefe deep 
 
 ofZri^r" ^°? tfiae ' appear of a fort 
 of agreable Grey Colour; but if you find 
 the great Clots upon breaking are chiefly 
 Blew allure your felf,that they are very srooi 
 
 Whhe'nW , Th f Aihe t C ™ be 3S 
 vvnitenmg, becaufe as they are very foul 
 
 they confequently produce 'a Lye aj foul' 
 
 wherefore they are generally made ufe of 
 
 w souring . as they might be very prone? 
 
 7 and advantagioufly f„ SoapliSfJf 
 
 tke puce were not higher than the "fhes 
 
 1 3 they 
 
 
 I 
 
Il8 The Art of Dying. 
 
 they generally ufe, which are called Kettle- 
 Goods. 
 
 Of Soap-boilers Afies^ or Kettle-Goods^ as 
 they are fometimes called. 
 
 \I7 Hich require a great deal of skill, in 
 the choice of them, becaufe there art 
 feveral forts of them, very different in good- 
 nefs from each other • fo that our whole 
 Book would not be large enough, to Treat 
 this Subjeft perfeflly, and particularly. 
 Good hard Soap-Afties, are diftinguifhed as 
 the other, by the Height and Width of the 
 Barrels, by their Weight, Packing, and Hard- 
 nefs to be dif covered betwixt the Pipe-ftaves 
 and at each end, the weight and largenefs 
 of the clotts, and their flicking together af- 
 ter they are pounded with Staves, or as 
 Iron Mineral when they are beaten together 
 and packed very hard to the bottom of the 
 Barrel $ always confidering that by how 
 much the larger the peices or clotts are, they 
 are by fo much the better for the Soap- 
 boiler. In (hort they differ from the other 
 two forts in the price, being the cheapeft 
 fort of the three, by reafon that the Beauti- 
 ful Coloured Allies, endewed with all the 
 good qualities abovementioned, and ufed 
 in Bleaching, are alfo proper for Scounng,and 
 Soap-boiling, as the fecond is proper lor 
 the two ufes of Scouring and Soap-boiling, 
 whereas the laft is fit to be ufed in Soap- 
 boiling only ; fo that as the firft is fit for all 
 the three mentioned ufes, the fecond for two 
 
«, « 
 
 77>e ^r/ 0/ Vying. 1 1 p 
 
 of them, and. the third but for one, 'tis but 
 realbnable that they Ihould be dearer in 
 Proportion, if equal Quantities were with 
 equal eafe to be hadof each fort. There is no 
 great difference in the ftrength of the three 
 lores, tho' there be in the Colour. As the 
 good Scouring Afhes -are as before faid of a 
 deep Blew, fo this la ft fort being broken to 
 Pieces by an Afli-Iron, if it appears moftljr 
 Grey tho 5 not without fbme Mixt ire ot 
 Blew, and the Pieces as hard andpointed as 
 fo many fmall Pieces of broken Glais, you 
 may conclude them to be very good Soap- 
 Afhes, and tho 5 not Proper to Scour, yet they 
 are often found as ftrong, large and good, 
 nay fometimes larger than the fecond fort. 
 
 Of New Jfies. 
 
 VS/Hich are a fort of Afhes, that require 
 fo nice a Judgment in the Choice of 
 them, that the Oldeit and moft experienced 
 Merchant is often at alofs 9 for they come 
 frequently from the Eaft Country, out of the 
 Woods before they have had their proper ma- 
 turating time, and are almoit like unllaked 
 Lime, and of a Mealy fort of fubftance, fo 
 that at beft 'tis hard to determine concern- 
 ing their Nature. However in order to form 
 as good a Judgment as is poffible, 'tis in 
 the firft Place NecefTary, that we have an 
 efpecial regard to their Weightinefs ^ to 
 which purpofe, poife a Hand-ful of them 
 in your Hand, and if you find them weigh- 
 ty, 'tis a very good Sign. Secondly Fill a 
 
 H 
 
■ 
 
 I 
 
 1 20 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Barrel with them, and afterwards pour 
 them out of the Barrel, Perpendicularly, 
 and if they fall very Swiftly to the Ground' 
 'tis no bad Sign. Thirdly, As 'tis alfo a 
 very good one, when they are very clean 
 and White as Hail. Fourthly^ 'Tis another 
 good Sign, when the Afhes run or cling 
 together, and begin to be full of Grains or 
 Kernels, at each end of the Barrel. Fifthly, 
 If when you try them, by lticking a Knife 
 into thefe Mealy Afhes, you find fome 
 Clots of them, (the larger and harder the 
 better) of as hard a Subftance as Sea-cole. 
 But if you have time enough to fpare,to fearch 
 more Narrowly into the Goodnefs of thefe 
 ibft Afhes,. felecT: out of aBarrel of this fort of 
 Goods, the largeft Clot or Piece, that you 
 can find, which you may obferve to be rather 
 like Stone, than a Clod of Afhes,and is what 
 often deceives the unwary and unexperienced 
 Soap-boiler, and caufes'himto complain of 
 Jiis Allies, as if he were Cheated. But for 
 farther information, lay this Clot in the 
 Air a few Dayes, and it will feparateand 
 become a Mealy fof t fort of Afhes, like the 
 reft from whence you took it-, thentakeit 
 in, Work and pack it as you intend it fhall 
 remain, in the fame manner as hard and 
 foft Afhes ufe to be Packed, and by de- 
 grees 'it will become foft, then Part of it 
 will grow hard, and fome will be 
 found of a midling fort betwixt both, and 
 a Third fofc as Meal 5 of which laif fort, 
 rake one Pound and half, moillen it and 
 lit it ftand feveral Hours, and if it 'becomes 
 
 • " a$ 
 
The Art of Dying. 121 
 
 as if it were hard Baken together, 'tis good, 
 and the harder the better : ,But if on the 
 Contrary it grows fbfter, and is ftreaked or 
 mixed with a Yellow reddifh Colour, and 
 you find that it doth not Cement or grow 
 together into hard Clotts or Lumps, but 
 Still remains of a Mealy Subftance, you 
 may conclude that 'tis of the very worft 
 fort of all, that it is not New, but hath 
 long bQQn Burnt, and is worth very 
 little or at moft but about half the Price 
 of the other fort. 
 
 in 
 
 M 
 
 3$ 
 
 What follows is worth your Obfervation anl 
 
 Care. 
 
 "pHe New Afhes require a very diligent 
 care in examining them, becaufe we 
 may therein eafily be miftaken by fudg- 
 ing them Newer or Staler then they really 
 are 5 to prevent which as much as is poffib'e 
 their Age may partly be known by the marks 
 or the Woods, from whence they come 
 yearly, by the Colour of the Afhes, and bv 
 obferving whether the Heads and Bottoms 
 or the Barrels be covered on the infide with 
 Alhes,or rather with the corruption or putre- 
 faction thereof, which always flicks to the 
 bottoms, fides, and joints of the Barrels, if the 
 Afhesare old. The age of the ftaves whereof 
 tt^ barrels are made, and the Hoops rmv 
 afford alfo f om e light: But the belt waHs 
 to fearch through the whole Barrel, and if 
 you jfind them fpfcin the middle,accom panic 
 mrh the abovemennoned hard undigefted 
 
 Lumps 
 
 1 
 
122 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Lumps or Clots, then you may certainly 
 conclude, that the Allies are New. The 
 New Alhes, are often fprinkled with Wa- 
 ter, and by the affiftance of moiftning 
 the top of the Barrel is heated, which 
 fprinkling together with the help of the Air, 
 ( which contributes very much ) kills the 
 uppermoft Afhes if they are even Packed, 
 tho 5 the innermoft remain very good 
 New Allies •, and this Imprudent careleinefs 
 often prefents the Buyer with an Advan- 
 tages Bargain, the Afhes not looking fo 
 Sightly as is hinted above. But enough 
 on our firft Head, till we come to fpeak 
 in General concerning the diminilhing the 
 Clots In the mean time you ought to remem- 
 ber carefully that when New Afhes comes m, 
 you may make Lye cheapeft, as Experience 
 hath always fhewn •, for the foft Afhes that 
 are clotted will yeild more Lye, than the hard 
 for which Reafbn the foft is cheap and belt 
 Husbandry, and the hard Dear. 
 
 The hard fort of Afhes is not fo apt to 
 decay and loofe its itrength with the 
 length of time as the foft, which decayes 
 apace, wherefore 'tis always fold cheaper 
 and the newer it is to be fure the ftronger it 
 is, and in the boiling emits its Saline Vir- 
 tue very fwiftly, but on the contrary the 
 hard Allies, tho' New, do not loofe fo 
 much of their ftrength by keeping along 
 time as the other , tho 5 they m decay 
 more in two or three Years, than in one. 
 But the fine Sky Colour' d Afhes before 
 mentioned, in dry and fine Weather, being 
 
good 
 
 * 
 
 The Art of Vying. 123 
 
 kept 3 Year or a Year and half, often prove 
 as good, and the Colour as bright, as at firft, 
 nay fometimes they are better for Bleach- 
 ing and Thread drefling and fuch like ions 
 of ufes. But as to the hard and foft fort 
 of Soap-Afhes, which we cheifly defigned 
 to treat of here, the demand for them de- 
 pends very much on the dearnefs or cheap- 
 nels of Hemp or Rape Oyl, and the dear- 
 neis or abundant Plenty of Pot-afhes, 
 as we fhall more largely hereafter make 
 appear. 
 
 Of Wett JJbes. 
 
 1 
 
 He Wetnefs of Afhes is owing to the 
 Misfortune of their being Tranfported 
 in Leaky Boats upon the Rivers, near whence 
 they come. The wett they Catch by the 
 Barrels their being thrown too hard to the 
 Ground, or too roughly Handled, which 
 confequently makes them Leaky ^ for when 
 the Water comes to your Afhes, the wet- 
 ting damages them very much, which may 
 alfo happen from the 111 hooping of the 
 Casks, the diftance of the Staves, or hardnefs 
 of the Clods, which may make way for 
 the entrance of Water, which Imbibes the 
 beft lixiviai Salt and leaves the Afhes very 
 feeble, efpecially if they continue long in 
 the Water ♦, and 'tis Obfervable that the har- 
 der the Afhes are, the more damage they 
 always receive from the wett. Thele wett 
 Afhes keep their Colour very well a 
 good while, efpecially if they are kept in 
 
 *moift 
 
 
 
1 24 The Art of Vying, 
 
 moift Places, and alfo the Barrels clofi 
 ihut. But as foon as they are expofed ta 
 the Air, or the Sun doth but Shine upon 
 them, the Colour Dyes, and from Blew 
 turns Pale, like Bricklayers ■ Morter. But 
 to try the Goodnefs of them, after taking 
 off the Head of the Barrel, dig up fome of 
 the Afhes pretty deep, and tait them, keep- 
 ing them upon your Tounge, as long as 
 you find them * contain any fharp biting 
 Quality, and if you find that lafts for a 
 Confiderable time, then the Afhes are good j 
 but if it quickly Vanifhes, they are not 
 worth much. 
 
 In the lame manner you may try the 
 Clots of the remainder either in the middle or 
 bottom, by holding them to your Tongue, 
 to taft, by which you may Judge of it as is 
 before dire&ed 5 And if you can fplit the 
 bottom of the Barrel in two Peices, and 
 where the Wood is Iplit, examine careful- 
 ly, if the Lye of the Afhes have Corroded 
 deep into the Wood, and Whether the Co- 
 lour of the. Plank be Brown-red, if you 
 find it fb, and that the Afhes have pene- 
 trated deep into it, 'tis a very good Sign 
 and it hath a good deal of Pot-afh in it, 
 but if you find it contrary you may be fure 
 'tis not good. This fort of drowned Afhes 
 may alfo be known by other Marks, for 
 when the Barrels are Sunk to the Bottom, 
 the way of Fifhing them up is always 
 with Leavers or Poles with fharp Iron 
 points, made on Purpofe for that ufe, and 
 often before they can hit aright, to brirg 
 
 them' 
 
rjtffl? 
 
 The Art of Vying. 125 
 
 them up, it happens that they Strike them 
 ieveral times into the Barrels between the 
 Staves, &c. Which gives a fair Opportu- 
 nity, of Examining the Goodnels of the 
 Afhes by the above mentioned and other 
 ways of TryaU but if it have loft its biting 
 quality, 'tis of no Value. 
 
 There are alfo other accidents,which dam- 
 age and moiften Afhes, viz. The Watrynefs 
 of the Wood where they were burnt ^ occafi- 
 oned either by much Rain, Hail, Snow; or in 
 the Tranfportation from the places where 
 they are burnt. Whether the Afhes at the bot- 
 tom of the Barrel be damaged, may ealily be 
 known by the Water that Hands about it 
 which will be foul if it be fo, and fo far as the 
 Tub Hands under may eafily be difcerned 
 hy the moilture of the Pipe-ftaves and Bot- 
 tom, for the uppermoft part where the Water 
 hath not come you will find dry : Tis a 
 certain rule alfo that thofe Afhes, which have 
 been wetted ordrown'd in Running Waters 
 are by no means fo ftrong as thofe which 
 have been wetted in Ships, or Boats, therea- 
 fon whereof is plainlv that flowing Waters 
 wafh away the itrength of the Afhes, whereas 
 the Itrength of the difTolved Afhes remains 
 yet amongft the other. And farther h when 
 the Afhes are hfhed out of the Water, and the 
 ratts fett upon one another, To that the Lye 
 drops off them upon the Earth, you will find 
 the undermoft the wetteft and brown on 
 
 a- wr 5 dfe ' J a ! lon 5 as the y are k e Pt from 
 Air Wind and Sun but if they are expofed 
 
 thofe Barrels which have been wetted be- 
 
 corns 
 
i%6 The Art of Vying. 
 
 come outwardly White mixt with a Red* 
 difh and Pale Colour. 
 
 Alfo in fome Woods where the good dry 
 A flies become like the laft mentioned, by 
 being prepared upon their fowl Earth, tho' 
 thefe are really the bell fort of all, and 
 much better than the forementioned wett 
 Afhes : This fort of Afhes 'frequently re- 
 mains a year or longer in the Woods, for 
 want of Frofty Weather, good roads or Snow, 
 without which they cannot be brought to 
 the Shipping Places 5 and in the Spring and 
 Harveft they often want Water, and their 
 Rivulets become Innavigable, in the Place 
 where they are made, fo that they are forc- 
 ed to let their Afhes lye a whole Year in 
 the open Air, expofed to the Injuries of Snow, 
 Rain and Wind, and confequently 'tis not to 
 be wondered, that there happens fome Da- 
 maged wet Afhes amongft them. Thefe if 
 the Earth be good are a throughly Profita- 
 ble fort of Bracks or Afhes, and appear 
 of feyeral forts, fome hard 16me foft &c. 
 Each according to its kind and the Nature of 
 the Earth, which is often better than fome 
 of the forementioned : And when thefe are 
 brought together, they are not much efteem- 
 ed, and therefore are Sold at low Rates, tho 5 
 they almoft always prove better, than was 
 expe&ed. 
 
 Of Damaged or Wet fofi Ajhes* 
 
 LI foft and weak Aflies, if they come 
 to be wet, have this Advantage over 
 
 the 
 
 A 
 

 The Art of Dying. 127 
 
 the wet hard Afhes, that they are not fo 
 foon wet through, and that when Wafhed 
 through with Water, they do not io quickly 
 lofe all their ftrength as the hard 5 for 
 being of a Mealy Nature, their ftrength is 
 not lb foon rinced away as the harder fort, 
 which when it hath Lain long in Water, 
 very often is utterly Deprived of all its 
 Virtue, as we have before hinted, and may 
 eafily be tryed. 
 
 Of Damaged or Wet j0es, Wetted in FreJI) 
 or in Salt Water. 
 
 9 TPls Undeniably certain that all wetted 
 J Afhes ( fuppofing them alike in Good- 
 nefsj that have been Damaged by frefh 
 Water, are much better than thole which 
 are injured by fait Water $ Becaufe the felt 
 Water is very injurious to, and unfit for Lye, 
 and thofe ib Damaged are utterly unfit for 
 Soap-makings the truth of which plainly ap- 
 pears by Experience, for after great Charge 
 and Trouble, they always make bad Soap, 
 to the Great lois of Soap-boilers, wherefore 
 thefe Afhes are as much as is Foflibie to be 
 always avoided. 
 
 Of the feveral Sorts of AJbes which come 
 from fevered Places. 
 
 £Everal forts of Afhes, come from Poland 
 
 to Dantzkk, which are marked with 
 
 Crowns, that mark being fet on by a fworn 
 
 Officer thereto appointed in the following 
 
 manner. 
 
 • 
 
128 The Art of tying. 
 
 manner. The Afhes being Unladen out of 
 the Ships upon the Afli-wharfe ♦, the Bar- 
 rels are laid in one two three or four 
 Rows, over againft each other, at fuch a 
 Diltance as the Officer may eafily go be- 
 twixt the Rows, which he doth as follows. 
 Hecarrys with him a long Large Knife, anda 
 Cooper's Adds, with the latter he holds 
 down the Staves of the Belly of the Bar- 
 rels, in order to get his Knife in at the 
 Chinks or Joints, to fee whether the Afhes 
 be clean or no^ and after itirring his 
 Knife about, if he rinds the Goods to be 
 clean and white, he orders the Workmen 
 to mark the Fatt with the Crown and the 
 Arms of the City, * which they bum in it $ 
 It is not 'his bufmefs in the leaft to take 
 care, whether they are foft or hard: But if 
 they're fowl and not white enough, then he 
 Marks them by. itriking his Adds twice 
 a crofs the uppermoft Stave of the Barrel, 
 that is Exaftly in the middle: And this 
 fort isGeneraly j lefs in Value, than the 
 Crown'd, and at Amjlerdam is fold from 
 two Flmijh Dollars to three per Laft lefs 
 than the Crowned ♦, 'tis called Brack, and if 
 it be yet {lighter, 'tis called Bracks-Brack, 
 that is flight or fimple Brack, being marked 
 with deep cutt Notches in the Hoops, with- 
 out any Burnt mark. This flighter fort is 
 commonly called Wood Bracks, they com- 
 ing from the fame Earth, and being part 
 of the fame fort of Afhes with the other, 
 but are not here diftinguifhed for being wet ; 
 and thefe are alio 3 o fl. Cheaper in pro- 
 portion; vj 
 
 \ 
 
f, 
 
 The Art of Dying, up 
 
 Qf Konigsberg AJhes. 
 
 went mark. The beft is marti- «,;<-!. 
 Bears claw burnt on the R 3 r~? 7"? a 
 
 per Laft; and that which dSJ Wi 
 to the fort called Hootn is Brack Bn°ck : '& 
 is marked as at Dantvck, with this %£ 
 rence that the rebate at ifeSLSf o dlffe r 
 at Amfterdam i 2 Florins. 8 8 and 
 
 0/ Riga 4fe 
 
 A Shes are alfo brought from p a> ^ 
 ** ^nd, and other PlaclTp-'^ 9** 
 there Bracked and marked as $k ** 
 
 for four Dollars the Laft at iS ? & * a 
 nine Guilders lefs th? thel^f TL %* 
 tf rt wiU not come U p ^ ,e f I " b0115 
 Joll us called Brack and th e R , W' 
 marked with a deep Notch Fv^f rre,s ar o 
 nuddle , And the Rich ctfJlf 1 ? ' in tJ * 
 * ouxed with the SpieJJ.f ack ^ which 
 
 K S bo0 ' bas ' a Star 
 
 burnt 
 
130 The Art of Dying. 
 
 burnt on one end. At Riga one Barrel 
 of Boll, is worth two of Brack, and at 
 Amfterdam, you may have three of Brack 
 for two of Spiegel. " 
 
 A Vifcourfe of Pot-afies. 
 
 POt-af he is come fo Generally into ufe,that 
 if the Lye neceffary to a Tunn of Soap 
 differs, only Ten of Twelve, from that of 
 Waydafhe, the Soap-boilers ule Pot-afhes 
 in its ftead, which renders fome skill in that 
 as neceffary as in Wayd.afh or Willowafh, 
 Firft we mull look after the Purity of the Co- 
 lour, that it be Blew without any mixture 
 of Green or Earth , Salt or Stone, like Pot- 
 atoes, or any other Afhes, or that any fine 
 blew Weydafhe be amongft it, all which 
 you muft have an efpecial regard to in youi 
 choice-, for fome Pot- Afhes, which comes 
 from Riga, is neither halffo good, nor worth 
 half fo much as the bell, which comes from 
 Konigsberg, or DantzicL Thole who judge 
 of Pot- Afhes by their burnings and the large 
 quantity of Lye, that drops, whether thick 
 foul,or clear, as foon as ever the matter turns 
 to Afhes, ought rather to conclude, concer- 
 ning the quantity or weight of the Afhes ^ 
 than to infer that they are ftrong and good : 
 befides there is a fort of Pot-afhes which 
 when it is new or at firft. coming, you find 
 as well coloured as the beft, if you attempt 
 to ule it then-, but if kept a while or is old, 
 it grows weak •, and the longer it is kept 
 the feebler it becomes : for the great clots 
 
 dif- 
 
The Art of Dying. I3 i 
 
 diffolve and break and it turns like the 
 
 fhat i r ?7A Umbl ? like a Medl ™ ho 
 ttebetf ton foftconfider whet ^r it be 
 
 *nf^ 
 
 tban t W r/£- 'j ^ hlch 1S Y et betrer 
 
 X£ T&' an< l- ften better than the 
 Place tf,' P R qU ?£'° n not but w every 
 befi i nT ? , d]I 5 en % aim at the 
 j /n m Dantz ^k there comes a lori- nf 
 f,°. d , Aftes asweU as from LVZrf 
 which are a fort of Riga Alhes At ""^ fe % 
 
 ft. a t0 £ urfue m Y fir ft Defign t0 in 
 fes^V™ t0 knowVeYeft 
 
 lead him i *!! far as tJle bare Eye will 
 iead h.m, he ought to fee that they be St 
 
 Scest d C S d Sf- J" ^i 
 
 I" to ^°V^^' ^ d " 
 Pound rt/mA f 3 al quantity. TO z a 
 
 a apan L 3 ^ PUt Cach Pa »ern into 
 
 quant ty P of'wS r Tl Cach a « «1»1 
 ** L l^|m\^ ; a fer 
 
 
132 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Twenty, or Twenty four Hours, ftirring 
 them very well till all be diffolved, then 
 Examine which Pot hath the cleareft Lye, 
 and which is beft Diffolved, and that 
 which you find To is certainly the beft at 
 this time ^ tho' the other may come to be 
 good iu time jj and then which is of the beft 
 Colour when diffolved is beft. And by this 
 rule you may alio examine, which is the 
 fecond beft, and which is the worft •, alfo 
 when the Lye is clear and throughly dif- 
 folved you may find Earth, Sand or other 
 drofs or fedinent at the Bottom •, wherefore 
 take a piece of Dutch Soap, of the bignefs of 
 a Wallnut •, and put into one of the potts 
 to the Lye, and if it fwims at the top, add 
 juft fo much Water as will caufe the piece 
 of Soap to fink to the Bottom, then imme- 
 diately take out the piece of Soap and put 
 it into one of the other pots of Lye, and if 
 it fwims pour in Water as before till it finks 
 and fb on from one Pot to another ^ and 
 that Pot that receives the moft Water before 
 the Soap finks, you may firmly conclude 
 to contain the firmeft and beft Afhes^and you 
 may judge of the reft in proportion to the 
 quantity of Water you find in them. But 
 notwithstanding all this care you will find 
 fometimes a fort of Allies, which pro- 
 duces a thick Lye, and prefently turns tp 
 a flimy mothery fubftance, and will float 
 the Soap and take as much Water as the* 
 beft fort of all. 
 
 Tho' this is afferted by fome, yet accor- 
 ding to my opinion it is hardly poflible. 
 
p 
 
 The Art of Dying. 133 
 
 The clear and well diffolved Lye, differs 
 
 Very ^ h in value > fro ™ that which will 
 not diflolve, and remains hard and ftiff - 
 and tho\ not only the Soapboilers beat it 
 and life it in Soap-boiling, without any in- 
 convenience but the Whitfters, Thread- 
 dreiTers Glafs-rnakers, and others fome- 
 
 Twill not be anjifs to add direaions 
 how to make an exaft Calculation of Se 
 length and goodnefs of the Aftes bv the 
 quantity of tfater 5 as fotinfl^K 
 pup in each Pot one Pound ofSt-?ff 
 and, to try, a quart of Water, but upon e™ 
 
 the thu-d ten, and the fourth eighth? 
 
 teen in Pronn«;nn \ I Tw ? ty four Si *- 
 
 itating the queftion thus If FifWr, «• y ' 
 of a Quart of I ve rTt'i, nSlxteen s 
 
 will ^elve kxK h s of r fn PenC£ ' what 
 on in Proportion The t ^ art ' and fo 
 
 K » Stone 
 
T' 
 
 ■ 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 134 The Art of Dying. 
 
 ftone, drofs and whatever is found undifol- 
 ved inthe Lye h as for Example, If in one pot 
 containing one Pound weight of Allies, 1 
 find not melted, and that is not Pot-Alh, the 
 quantity of an Ounce when dryed or one 1 6th-, 
 therefore in the Hundred Weight there 
 muft be in propotion Six Pound and a 
 quarter of the lame drofs, and confequent- 
 ly the Afhes are fo much lefs worth : And 
 you may take the lame Meafures, in compii- 
 ting all the defects and faults, tho' they are 
 not here Particularized. Tho 5 at prefent 
 thele forts of Goods grow yearly better, as 
 thole marked A. B. C that leem'd to appear 
 rather fryed in a Pan than Burnt, and yet 
 were very little faulty : Sometimes you have 
 thele of one Stiver and fometimes of- three 
 Stivers, and it happens to differ more one 
 Year than another ^ fb Anno. 1690. moft 
 Afhes lookt only as if they had been fryed 
 in a Pan, but yet were of an extraordinary 
 Beautiful Colour, moftly Grey, and the 
 Afhes proved very well : 3 Twould be too te- 
 dious to Particularize any more on this 
 Subject s which is- at prefent come to ftch 
 a perfection that every Afh-Burner of a 
 Wood, lets his particular mark upon his 
 rrels as Fifctfs is A. T. X. 
 
 
 
 A 
 
■fc 
 
 A Short 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 INFORMING 
 
 What Pot and Waydafhes are 5 
 
 And How Made. 
 
 THefe Afhes being not only ufed in 
 all Dye-Houfes, but alfo found 
 neceflary in almoft every parti- 
 cular Dye, it cannot therefore be 
 Labour loft, to defcribe the Nature of 
 teem, and to inform how they are made. 
 We have before in the Univerfal Inftruaion 
 tor Dymg, being thefirft Part of this Book 
 hinted what thefe Allies are, and how prepa- 
 red; but, upori Confideration, that that Sub- 
 ject, ieem d to be a little too briefly Handled 
 there, we fiiall here Treat it more at large. 
 J , ™ ke Pot-alhes, they take clean 
 Wood-afhes particularly thofe of hard 
 .Woods and (for the greater certainty) glow- 
 ing hot, that they may the better extract 
 '1 fat ,lf s : Thefe the y Di fl°lve in boa! 
 \"\e£ f atCr T which ,°P«ation produces 
 i !^ *arp Lye; which if they hav# 4 
 
 lows; Firlt they fill one half full (always 
 
 K 4 taking 
 
l%6 The Art of Dying. 
 
 taking care that the Kettles are Iron, not 
 Copper, or a little more, and above the 
 Kettle they place a Fatt filled with the 
 mentioned Lye, towards the bottom where- 
 of they clap in a little Tap. They make 
 a very good Fire under the Kettle, in order 
 to Dry up the Watery Part of the Lye- 
 which as loon as it begins to boil away 
 pretty fail, they fet the Tap in the Lye 
 Fatt, a running into the Kettle, the Stream 
 being about the bignefs of a Straw, to fup- 
 ply that Part which Evaporates. Then 
 Stirring it about Diligently, they boil the 
 Lye by degrees till it boils Thick, when 
 it begins to make a Noife like Stroaks 
 in the Air, Occafiond by the Thick Salt 
 which the Lye Yeilds, and is fettled to the 
 bottom $ After which they diligently itir 
 it continually, and by keeping it hot eva- 
 porate all it's Moifture, till it becomes a 
 Brownifh, fharp, thick, warm, ftony Sub- 
 ftance, and then 'tis dug or broken out of 
 the Kettle, and clapped upon bright burn- 
 ing Coals, till it becomes White, Gray or 
 Blewifh. This is the preparation of 
 what is called Pot afhes, and is performed 
 Cheifly at Doru and Tautenburg not far from 
 jewe. 
 
 Wayd-afhes are prepared in the lame man- 
 ner, from the Afhes of burnt Wayd, that is 
 Willow.' The French frequently initead 
 of rhefe W 7 ayd or Willow Afhes, ufe Wine- 
 drois or Lee- Afhes, particularly the thick 
 Lees which the Brandy Diltiller, after ha- 
 ing extra&ed all its Spirit and moilture, 
 
 leaves, 
 
The Art of Dying. i%j 
 
 leaves as a Caput Mcrtnum behind: This 
 they dry and burn, and by making Lye of 
 it, boiling and preparing as above recited 
 in the Cafe of Pot-aftes, extract its Saline 
 Subftance ; and this they call Smites Gra- 
 vities, or Potaffe, or Cendres cukes. In France 
 they ufe Calcined Tartar fometimes, which 
 
 they S^? m t0 white ftatp Aihes in an o- 
 pen Veffel upon the Fire. 
 
 f .Ti s " otv y«hftanding undoubtedly certain 
 that there ls no real difference in all thefe 
 Wial Saks, in their Vertue and Opetl 
 
 3& ,k °"f-ff raIIy as S° od as *e other 
 P < he £t fe vei y much in the Price a 
 Pound of Tartar cofting more than W 
 
 Pound of Oak or Birch. 8 However i„ 2 
 
 Preparation of all thefe Lye Salts clre m fft 
 
 be Tfr n 8? « be wdl ST 
 
 witfto °k S' oS f 3Ve ^^ 
 vviiu xvock dait, or bait-peter whfrh IqO- 
 
 tappers when the Alhes five Cd b J 
 
 "me before boiling out of the T „* 75 
 
 contrafted fome Coiffure fbm the'^r 
 
 ifa?SS « coiS S ight£n ' and s ^«-- 
 
 InfeSf wS^S SaySveT 6 ' I" 
 «g a Glafi full of thihK fulh/^f' 
 
 V^tcoio.. rf|^3lSSga£2 
 
 i( 
 
 
138 The Art of Dying. 
 
 in fair Water, to which add a fmall quanti. 
 ty of Pot-aihe Lye, and it will change ft 
 immediately to a. very bright Yellow. Tfe 
 fading colours extracted from Flowers ? as 
 -Water tin£tured with ted ' Roles, upon the 
 addition of a little Lye becomes Green- and 
 a little Blewlake diflblved- in Water will 
 turn Green upon puting in a little of 
 this Lye : But this Lye utterly fpoils the 
 Black-Dye, by turning it to the bright co- 
 lour, of the infufion of Gall. Now in the lit- 
 tie foregoing Tra£t,of Silk Dying, I remem- 
 ber 'tis dire&ed to rince the black Silks out 
 in Pot-Afhe Lye, yet it requires fbme con- 
 fideration whether it really doth any good 
 or rather no hurt. 
 
 The Indians burn an Afh from the leaves 
 of a certain Tree called Adam's Fig-tree, and 
 boil it up till it becomes a very fharp Lye, 
 in which they foak their Raw Silk jultas 
 It comes Yellow from the Silk-Worms, fo 
 long till it becomes white as Snow, as 
 Tavemier ;eil us in his Voyage to Mu, 
 Chap. 7. where he defer ibes the Kingdom 
 
 of Afem. „ -, n 
 
 Undoubtedly this Pot-Afhe, and all 
 Wood-Aftie-Lye muft be extraordinary 
 ftrong when Vis feveral times boiled witfi 
 unflaled Lime and Water, as the Soap- 
 boilers do, for then it becomes fo corroiive 
 and (harp that it crumbles Hair and ga- 
 thers into pulfe* 
 
 
<y%ti. 
 
 *35> 
 
 A General 
 
 INSTRUCTION 
 
 FOR 
 
 Woollen Manufactures all forts 
 of Colours : 
 
 AND FOR 
 
 The Culture of Druggs 
 
 Ingredients ufed therein. 
 
 I^Ti^"/ 3311 * 5 ° f Sil K Wool, 
 the wf d ' conduce ver y ™ c « to 
 the Improvement and Advantage of 
 
 frade- Dying, which adorns them with 
 hat agreeable variety of Colours, K£ 
 
 M ^. B moft Beautif «l in Natoe 
 is the Soul which animates them • and S 
 
 Cdour i'twnS ruf£ W 
 times, than any Genius 1„ \a y of the 
 
 ry 
 
 I 
 
 
*4° The Art of Dying. 
 
 ty indifferent Commerce, if Dvin? au J 
 ^ e :^fofe Be auti e S5 WhiSSSj 
 rnand, and rente 'em defirable even amcngft 
 the barbarous Nations. * 
 
 AH vifible things are diftlnguifh'd, and be. 
 come deferable by their Colours h and 'tis 
 not fufficient that the Colours are fine to 
 fupport and incourage the Trade of fluffs- 
 but they ought alio to be good and equally 
 lalting with the Stuffs themfelves. The ex> 
 ample of Nature its felf clearly informs us 
 of the difference: For if (he beQows but a 
 weak Colour upon Flowers, which quickly 
 fades ^ fhe alters her meafures in Herbs, Me- 
 tals and pretious Stones, which fhe endows 
 with a itronger Dye, and a Colour pro- 
 portion'd to their duration. 
 
 r r , e We have in France great plen- 
 
 ■* A worle fort or f , TTr - /s/ ~ r .. 7 ° - J. . 
 
 ;d. P" c: Woad, (*Voude) red Mad- 
 der, Chermes Barries, Spanlfi 
 Broom and t Walnut Trees j not 
 to mention feveral other Ingre- 
 dients j the Enumeration, Cut , 
 ture and Advantages of which, 
 I fhali fhew in the Twelfth 
 Part of the InftruSions 5 and 
 indeed we want only Cocheneal to make us 
 pofleffors of the Six belt Druggs for Dying. 
 Are not we then blind Enemies to our own 
 welfare, in defpifing thefe excellent Dyes, 
 and draining our Native Country ol its 
 Money to purchafe unprofitable Druggs ol 
 Grangers, which only ferves to Baftardize 
 our Dyes and ruine our trade in Stuffs* and 
 
 in the mean time irjgratefully reject tne 
 
 r ° Bene- 
 
 The Befi being 
 called rafisU ", 
 
 f Racine from, 
 whence Couleur 
 Be Racine i e. a 
 -Colour made 
 from feveral 
 parts of the Wal- 
 nut Tree. 
 
The Art of tying. 141 
 
 Benefits which liberal Nature advantageou- 
 ly diftributes to us. 
 
 Twas for this realbn that His Majefty 
 out of His Juftice and Prudence, cauied 
 general Rules to be made for the better 
 encouragement of Maaufaftures and Dy- 
 ing and made them be Regiftred in His 
 Prefence m the Court of Parliament of 
 *™/g»/l 13 1669. and fent Commiffio- 
 ners to put them m execution in all His 
 
 S^v^ ftcC£fs ° f whkh *™ disco- 
 vered its fdfm a very advantages refor, 
 mauon in all our Manufaaurl. BuJ as 
 tis impoffible to remedy at once all the 
 abufes are crept into the Manufacture of 
 
 more extenfive th™u ? J , e drawn U P 
 M*', alfo ro enable the Tudees of 7T 
 
 SleS lt,an S«san opportunity toaS 
 
 adyan- 
 
 
 * 
 
m 
 
 142 The Art of tying. 
 
 advantage of it. But as it is impoflible to 
 inftruft French men otherwife, and we can- 
 not be too nicely exa£V to prevent the decay 
 and prevent the welfare of this Art -, this 
 obje£tion feems too weak to deprive the 
 publick of this Work 5 efpecially if we con- 
 lider that the utmoft care that can be ta- 
 ken to keep up the Secrets of Dying, cannot 
 hinder fome to whom they muft be in- 
 trufted from publifhing them in a ftrange 
 Country, if encouraged with the profpeft 
 of a fmall advantage to themlelves but ^*and 
 on the other fide Strangers can reap no be- 
 nefit by this inftru&ion, without produce- 
 ing in their Country a greater demand for 
 the Dying Materials which France affords, 
 the Profit of which will abundantly com- 
 penfete our Secret of Dying.. And we can- 
 not but obferve that the Spaniards^ who by 
 all poflible means have endeavoufd to keep 
 their Trade to the Indies clofe lock'd up, 
 have not made fb good a Market of it as 
 the Hollanders who Publifh'd theirs as much 
 as poflible by their Writings. 
 
 Others aflert that Dying ought to be 
 left free, and without the leaft reftri&ion, 
 becaufe the good and durable Dyes enhance 
 the price of our Stuffs, and confeuqently 
 hinder our Trade by leffening the demands: 
 But the anfwer is eafy, for this rife of the 
 price (whilit the Money ftayes in France 
 by reafon of the ufe of our own Druggs) 
 being much leis, than the profit that a- 
 rifes thereby, cannot be confiderable nor 
 injurious to the publick, for 'tis well known 
 
 
 1 
 
The Art 6f Dying. \ 4 3 
 
 that a Cloth of fifteen or twenty Livres the 
 Ell, being well Dyed with red Madder 
 is but fifteen or fixteen Sols the' Ell dea- 
 rer, than one that is not, nor does the lame 
 Cloth well Dyed with Woad become any- 
 dearer than as with Madder; tho' in the 
 real value, Beautiful Wearing, Goodnefs of 
 Colour, and Lafting of the Stuff, 'tis one 
 third better Experience convinces us that 
 theSpamfi black Cloaths have always been 
 preferred to the Dutch and EngM> ^W 
 for the excellence of their By/., ^ho' The 
 Wool is ofequal goodnefs and 'the make 
 ■ of the latter incomparably better than Snf 
 »>fi and much cheaper. P ■ 
 
 'Tis impoflible to wear Purple, Dove Cn 
 lour, deep or light Violet Colour, mi 
 with Brafil Wool) one month So^ff 1 
 dmg, f 0I hng, fpotmg a „d fining And t IS 
 Colours after they are Bv^iKi^r he £ 
 indeed fomewhatmom W , ? fon Coft 
 a Colour wSSS£jfe^ a 
 long as the Stuffs themfelves and ?f « *? 
 with dirt or greafe ran ^n' l o S P oted 
 and cleaned Stt "L^of 6 , ^ 
 wjuring the Colour. § ° f Iofin § or 
 
 *** *o*. fhe Red * Madder-dye is a 
 Colour which never fades or 
 
 per 
 
 
V 
 
 144 The Art of Dying. 
 
 per tho' often dearer than Woad, which 
 yeilds one of the belt Colours in the World 
 and hath formerly vaftly enriched Langul 
 doc. The firft Drugg being a ftranger, 
 wou'd it not be reasonable to prefer the 
 the iecond for being our own, tho 3 we had 
 210 relpeft to the finenels of its Colours ? 
 
 The difference in the price betwixt a true 
 and a baftard Colour in narrow Stuffs is 
 fb fmall, that the belt Black of the Serges 
 
 , j de Rone or de * ChaUons cannot 
 
 shaiiJons. " rse coll above four Sols more than 
 the worft and the Razes fa 
 Chaftres and Et amines i y Amiens but two Soh j 
 and yet thole who are to wear them would 
 not be without the Colour for one third 
 part of the Stuff 
 
 In this Inftru&ion there is a good provi- 
 fion made for Stuffs of Imall value that they 
 may not want a Dyeluitable to their finenels 
 and duration-, without being at a great ex- 
 pence t tho 3 Dying never makes the Stuffs 
 much dearer without the Colour its felf be 
 extraordinary, and the Stuffs thereby ren- 
 dred more vendible. 
 
 If the difference in the price betwixt ^a 
 
 good and bad Dye is inconfiderable in 
 
 Stuffs, 'tis yet lefs in Woolls which are 
 
 ufed in mixed Stuffs, for they don't require 
 
 an extraordinary bright Dye h neither do 
 
 thev take up many nor any very dear Druggs; 
 
 becaufe in Stuffs of this nature Dyed Wool 
 
 is commonly mixed with raw or undyed, 
 
 and good and dear Colours with worfe and 
 
 cheaper. " 
 
 r One 
 
Of 
 
 n 
 
 Of 
 
 The Art Oj _,...£. 
 
 . One EH of Cloth of Ten, Twelve or Fif- 
 teen Irons the Ell, weighs about three pounds, 
 m which we need put no more than a third' 
 or fourth part of Violet Crirrifon Wool in 
 the mixture ■, and tho' that be the deareft 
 Colour which can be ufed in this mixture 
 yet according to the 48 Article of this In- 
 duction with a fmall ground of Madd- 
 CW? or n Baftard - C o*eneal, the prtce of 
 
 2 thet/i T E e ra L fed \ bove five or £ 
 
 rtn' rt gh ? r than the baft «d Dye 
 
 ^oSST* " K ^ ° Be ^ ^/er 
 
 4f % mixfSo^ j£» 
 
 thaTS 3S Qimf0n > there are feBMbS 
 Si the HI W 6 ? 1 th£ P rice abOTe So 
 
 SS * 'or J Mny S^lSoV a- 
 / 8 £ r ^. or none a ^ all ufed 
 
 oughttbiT/^f i%« ! ™ *** 
 
 ordinarily about Three LZ S > and . wei S hs 
 
 ^KEu^w&l|S5 
 
 colour SKfttt tf 
 dearer than unwoaded WooTwhthZ, ° h 
 come to above Five. Cf Fl d ' " 0t 
 Jeak of thofe MiamhJjg* & n " » 
 
 put above one Sixth or EiS $ w / 
 Wool, which m k 7. Ci f ™ of black 
 
 'eft, tho' the ,s3ff fa ot Si lff l renCe fti11 
 ter to the buyer befid« °w , h J 53 " of- 
 fers been fifft \S& II -^ b!atk whicb ' 
 
 woaaecr blew wears better 
 
 and 
 
 *45 
 
 
 
14* The Art of Vying. 
 
 and is much ftronger than that which has 
 
 not. 
 
 He muft be very ignorant in Dying and 
 the Manufacture of Stuffs, that can believe 
 that Woad renders the Wool hard or un- 
 traceable, and tears or hinders the combing of 
 it when 'tis very well known that thefe in- 
 conveniencies proceed from the black Dye 
 for want of the neceffary ingredients, or due 
 care in the performance ♦, when it the Wool 
 is Woaded, Ids Coperas is requifite to the 
 Black, which is the only material that har- 
 dens it -, but in the Dying Wool with Woad 
 and black according to this Inftru&ion, all 
 ' thefe inconveniencies are avoided, and the 
 fmali charge which arifes thereupon is very 
 advantagioufly repaid. 
 
 Some will objed that good Druggs are 
 harder to work than the {lighter, but this 
 objeaion is in part owing to the pleaiure 
 which Men take in doing flight work ra- 
 ther than good, and the uncommon pains 
 they take in hopes of greater profit by the 
 Baitard colour than the true : But it they 
 would work with the fame pleafure and ap- 
 plication on the true Dye -,they would luc- 
 ceed as well in thefe as in the others, an 
 thofe who are not well enough initruttea 
 in the Art, have no more to do but toft* 
 low this Initiation, which will remove thor 
 greateft obftruaions, and inform them mtnc 
 knowledge of feveral Drugs that very few 
 knew to be of ufe in Dying. 
 
 It may alio be alledged that feveral pro- 
 vinces abound indifferent Herbs, Roots, w 
 
 pro- 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 proper for Dying, and have not only Com- 
 modities, but manners of Working pecu- 
 liar to themfelves, which they will be de~ 
 privedof the advantage of by this uniformi- 
 ty, that is to be fetled in France ^ alio 
 that Dyers will hereby loofe the advantage 
 of whatfecrets they may difcover in their 
 Art. . But as this uniformity only regards 
 the eftablifhment of the publick good, His 
 Majefty does not hereby pretend to feclude 
 any of thefe advantages to the Dyers, but 
 only till they are viewed and examined up- 
 on the ipot to fee whether it be more pro- 
 fitable than injurious ; in which cafe, no peri< n 
 will be deprived of the ufe of their own 
 materials if they are good, and if know the 
 moitadvantagious manner of ufing them. 
 
 As Dying well is not without its reward 
 of honour and profit which accrues to the 
 Dyers in recompence of their labour, fo the 
 Hi Dying will not continue without its due 
 pumlhments 5 for all the avenues of Favour 
 which were ufed by the fubtil and humble 
 Addrefles of Merchants andDyersto put off 
 their Baftard Dyes are now clofe fhut u n, be- 
 caule Orders are given throughout the King- 
 dom toview and Mark allMerchandifes, not 
 only at the place of their Dying, but alio at 
 he places of Sale and Traniportation, 
 Sfe the -iF e T^ ° f ^nfifcation of thofe 
 
 S wrn re ll L D i& are dther » ot Mark'd 
 or wrong Mark'd. 
 
 Theabufe was alfo grown freauent- in 
 
 'veil as Stufts, tor wh.ch reafon His Maje- 
 
 L 2 ft/ 
 
 I47 
 
 
 
148 The Art of Dying. 
 
 fty bath been pleated to correct it, by a 
 general Rule which is Eftablifhed as a 
 Law, and Order, for ihc time to come a* 
 mongft all the Hatters of the Realm, and 
 hath thought necefTary, to infert in this In- 
 itru9:ion, the Manner of, and the Drugs 
 proper for a good Black Dye, to the End 
 that the Ignorajit Hatters might be informed 
 and furniirfd with Inftru&ions-, to perfeft 
 themfelves in Dy ing,as well as the Judges and 
 CommhTioners be enabled to difcover and 
 correct the Abules, which have ruined com- 
 merce in the Kingdom, and in Forreign 
 Countries. 
 
 It tends then to our own advantage to 
 Dye good Colours, as well as to the Publick 
 Good and advance of the reputation of the 
 Trade and Manufactures of France. This 
 Inftruction furnifhes us with the means, to 
 do what our oivn Conferences exact from. 
 us, that being engaged in an employ, we 
 fhould apply our ielves to perfect it as 
 much as in us lyes, and joyfully embrace all 
 means that may enable us to do well, and 
 prevent our doing 111, which Obliges us to 
 praifethe Juitice and Goodnefs of our King, 
 who by 2 Happy Neceffity has conftrain'd 
 us to do well for fear of being Puniihed, 
 as knowing that this wholefbme fear is the 
 Foundation and beginning of Wifdom a- 
 mongft Men. 
 
 THIS 
 
 

 
 THIS 
 
 INSTRUCTION 
 
 is 
 
 Divided into Twelve Parts 
 
 In Which is Contained 
 
 1N"theRrft, in ^Articles the Five Prin- 
 cipal Simple Colours for the Dving 
 
 btatts, to the end they may throu^hl.,- 
 mbibe the Colour of the Dying CKr 
 .In the Second, in ^/ A rtS £fn* 
 
 SW nW*- and ending w'ich^the 
 xxxjft. The belt manner of ufing the IW 
 Ingredients, and of Dvine to TwtX- g 
 the Five Principal Simple flours aS " 
 
 Wool which proceed from them S ' 
 
 wiL^ h -f in W Articles, beginning 
 with the *** y y, and ending with rhe ? S 
 1 he Mixtures of Colours nrocee^L f 
 the Five Principal Simple C S s g ^ 
 
 .In the Fourth, in «» Articfe L.Vni 
 with the, fo^ ' and ending wkh'S^ 
 The Compound Colours, 4ich a £ '^ 
 ed by the Mixture of n, n T ar eproduc- 
 Simple Colours °° r more ' of tKe 
 
 13 h 
 
 
1 50 The Art of Dying. 
 
 In the Fifth, in xxjj Articles, beginning 
 with the lxv]jx\\ and ending with the Ixxx- 
 viihh. All Dyers' are divided into two forts, 
 the great or good Dyer, and the lefler Dyer, 
 with the Reafons of this Divifion $ the Co- 
 lours and Smfis which each of them are 
 freely permitted to Dye, the Apprentifhip, 
 Service, and Mafter-pieces which each Dy- 
 er ought to perform. 
 
 In the Sixth in xxiv Articles, beginning 
 with I***/*, and ending cxjj. The Myftery and 
 manner of Dying Wool for Tapiftry and 
 Canvas, the method of reducing the manner 
 ufed at Rcan and other places to the great 
 and lefs Dyes, the cuftom and neceffity of 
 ufincr Leads or Signets to prevent the de- 
 bafing our Stuffs and the felfification of 
 
 our Dyes. 
 
 In the Seventh, in xjv, beginning with 
 cm/, and ending with cxxvj. The Druggs 
 ufed to Dye the great or good Dyes, and 
 the leffer Dyes * alfo thofe which are Pro* 
 hibited. The neceffity of keeping their Books 
 well, and of vifiting the Dyers of both the 
 great- and and leffer Dyes. t 
 
 In the Eighth, in ***;; Articles, . begin- 
 ning with cxxvjj, ending with chjjj- The 
 reafons why fome Druggs ought to be Pro- 
 hibited and others permitted-, why there are 
 fome which ought to be allowed m tome 
 Colours, and forbidden in others, with 0- 
 ther reafons which may ferve as an anlwer 
 to the Memorial defign'd to be prefentea 
 on this affair, and to the Objeaions whicn 
 may be raifed againft this Inftruflion. 
 
 
It 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 In the Ninth, in xxxvj Articles, begin- 
 ning with cljx, and ending with cxcjv. The 
 Materials and manner of preparing a good 
 black, with the neceflary Woad and Mad- 
 der grounds fuitable to the Goodnels and 
 Duration of the Stuffs. ' Alio -the method 
 of preparing Stufis, with Galls &C. And 
 the Mfhing of Black. 
 
 In the Tenth, in *#, beginning with cxcv^ 
 and ending ccxxxv. The Grounds and Man- 
 ner of Dying Black thole Stuffs which have 
 chang'd or loft their colour 5 the manner 
 of Dying Black thole which Ihou'd be 
 mended, and Wools ferving for Mixtures h 
 alio of Dying flight Stuffs very cheap, with 
 the Druggs neceflary to, and the way of 
 making th© Proof boilings to try the Good- 
 nels of the Dye. 
 
 In the Eleventh Part, in ** Articles, be- 
 ginning with ccxxxvj, and ending with cclv. 
 Of the Dying of Threds, Cloths made of 
 Hemp, Linnen, Cotton, with what is necef- 
 fary to the Perfiaion of Silk Dying, alfo 
 to the making and well Dying ofTfats! 
 In the Twelfth, in Ixjj, beginning with 
 
 S\ en *l? g Wlth CCCXV V' The Advantage 
 which will accrue to the publick, by thq 
 
 TW CultU u re , and , greater Tra ^ in the good 
 
 S W T hlC . h abound in ^*^ fuch as 
 £ e Woad, the better and flighted for "f 
 Madder, Spanifi Broom, Walnut-Tree^ Rn5 
 R^s.and Shells, O^™^*™* 
 Antient Purple Sarrette, Genif} ro lL P j k f 
 
 L .4 ufcd 
 
 151 
 
 
 
/ 
 
 152 The Art of Vying. 
 
 " fe „ d , il L Dying, Allom, Galls, Alder Bark. 
 i>uM, Trentanel, Malherbe, Garoiiille £f Or: 
 Ms, with the conclufion of this' Inftru- 
 thon and the Advantage which may An- 
 nually accrue to the Publick. 
 
 And Laftly a Table of the Articles con- 
 tain'd iq this Mruaion. 
 
 PART I. 
 
OHM* 
 
 ■WMH 
 
 PART I. 
 
 *53 
 
 §i. 
 
 TN Dying, Five principal fimple forts of Fi "= chief 
 X Colours are ufed, from whence all others ff ^ 
 are derived or compofed. 
 
 n. 
 
 Thofe Colours are Blew Red YpIT™,, 
 Tawny or Brown, and BlaS. ' ° W ' 
 
 III. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Jg Prepared with thefe Ingredkn < T S 
 turn of a Colour betwixt T,, 5 the ^ 
 Crey, and 'tis here L il ur Tim y a "d 
 ^wny or Br wn i TZ ^^ that «fc" 
 Colour Dved wilh £ r farne w "h the 
 nut-Tree^' W " h ^ feve «I Part, f Wal! 
 
 V. 
 
 
 m 
 
' 
 
 ^m. „ ■ 
 
 154 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 V. 
 
 But thofe Stuffs, which are to be Dyed 
 Blew or Brown, muft be Immediately taken 
 from the Fulling Mills, and fo be Dyed 
 without any Previous preparation. 
 
 VI. 
 
 The stuffs The cleaneft and Whiteft Stuffs, which 
 ought to be are made of the fineft Wool, take the moft 
 
 well Clean- ^.^ ^ ^^ Q^^ 
 
 VII. 
 
 Thee Stuffs whitned with Sulphur or 
 Cerufe, ought to be very well cleanfed from 
 the Pernicious relifls of thofe Ingredients, 
 which hinder the penetration and beauty 
 of the Dye, and prevent the Union of 
 the Colours. 
 
 Obfervathns. 
 
 AFter the Author in the third §. hatj 
 direQedus to boil our Stuffs, defignd 
 for Red or Yellow, mAUom : in i the Fourth 
 i For Black, in Galls - in the Fifth §. He 
 proceeds to inftrua us to Dye Blew and 
 Light Brown, juft as they come from 
 the Fulling MUls : But we ought to taKe 
 Notice that tho' Woad, Blew is a very inb- 
 til Penetrating- Colour, which tinges very 
 freely, vet Indigo isfoonger, and to fay taw 
 
, 
 
 
 The Art of "Dying. 
 
 Corrodes. Wherefore in the firft preparati- 
 on of Wool, before it is brought to the ful- 
 ling Mills, it ought to be very well eleanied 
 with Hogs-greafejButin our German Dye- 
 Houfe, Allom is frequently *ufed in Blew's 
 and is become fometimes neceflaryby reafon 
 of the great ufe of Indigo, (as will appear in 
 our Obfervations on the following Chapter) 
 I mean in the preparing of Stuffs. Tho 3 others 
 are for putting the Allom into the Veffel with 
 the Dye,the firft way makes the Dye take the 
 better, and the laft as well as the firft, turns 
 the Dye more towards the Black , than 
 right Indigo wculd, if its ftrength were not 
 fbmewhat broken by the Allom. For it 
 would then become a fort of Violet. This 
 is needleis in Woad ; In the preparation for 
 Reds and Yellow Dyes, § 3, the Allom. 
 is defign'd to make the Colours take the bet- 
 ter ; only in Blacks we ought to confider 
 whether .they are firft Dyed Blew, for the 
 Beft Blacks are thole firft Dyed with a Blew 
 ground, eipecially if with Woad alone, which 
 produces a Colour very different from 
 Indigo as we (hall fhew. And if Black were 
 Dyed without any other ground, Galls 
 wou'd be very neceffary, tho' in our Coun- 
 try they are feldom ufed, for they per- 
 form the whole Dye with one Suds 5 'but e- 
 very Place hath it's particular Method 
 As to the 7 th §. we feldom Whiten 
 
 be Dyed Lunlefs it be Womens Gowns which 
 having been worn White a whole Summ? 
 are to be Dyed ^^feS? 
 
 medy 
 
 *55 
 
 
15^ The Art of Vying. 
 
 medy is eafy in either cafe fox Soap Lvc 
 pr Lime will remove the rough Hardnefs of 
 The Sulphur, and fair Water will remedy 
 it in Ceruie. J 
 
 PART II. 
 
 Jhe Art of Ufing the Druggs to the bejl Ai. 
 vantage in Dyings and of Preparing the Five 
 Principal Colours to PerfeBion^ and con- 
 fequently all others which are compofed of 
 or derived from them. 
 
 VIIL 
 
 THe Blew Dye is prepared from the beft 
 Woad called Paitel, which grows in the 
 Sthforts of upper Languedoc, and is the belt and moft 
 So mixt neceffary Drug in the Art of Dyjng •, with 
 
 pre 
 
 ;ther. 
 
 VoUede^ which is a fort of Woad, that's 
 
 weaker and lefsSubftantial 5 and grows mNor- 
 
 mandie^ and with Indigo which comes from 
 
 the Indies-^ which (tho' ufed alone is none 
 
 of the beft Colours, yet) never mhTes of fuc- 
 
 cels, if you do not mix above the quantity 
 
 pound of of Six Pound, with every Bail of Woad, 
 
 Sy^Soiand if it be nor u fed before it is prepared 
 
 woad, \ n Copper and in the two fait heatings. 
 
 IX, 
 
 The Dyers ought to be left to their liber- 
 rv. to put the Six Pound of Indigo in the 
 
 great 
 
The Art of 'Dying. I S7 
 
 great Copper, or to relerve a Part for the 
 firft, or for both heatings, that they may the 
 more Conveniently prepare their lefler Dyes^ 
 but they ought to be Irri£Hy forbidden to 
 ufe Indigo, without it be firft prepared with IndiCT0 
 Tartar Allies, or otherwile than with Woad 5 ougfc to be 
 or put any more then Six Pound t o prepared ' 
 every Bail of Woad, or to Heat it any more 
 than twice^ becaufe a failure in any of thefe 
 Particulars will produce a falfe or Baftard ., . 
 Dye. For the Subftance of the WoadteW" 
 which is NecefTary to coned: the Indigo 
 mil be wailed in the Working in the Cor> 
 per and the two heatings. 
 
 X. 
 
 The Voiiede or weaker Woad is not ftron? 
 enough to correft the ill qualities of the 
 Indigo, rf not affifted by the virtue of the ' 
 Paftel or belt Woad, efpecially in the hea- 
 tings where it is void of the fubftance which 
 
 LTf ^ m u thC C ° p P er - The q^ntity of 
 indigo ought not to be regulated bv the 
 weake, .Woad, but by tha? oTthe'beft ' 
 when it is put mto the Copper if von 
 
 xr. 
 
 Put fo little Indieo into rC r ught t0 of In ^ *' 
 IV01H max, ' iU '&° lnt0 tn e Copper that rhp I0 ° ot fl»gk- 
 
 UOad m3y be ^le to correct i t? a pound "' W ° J " 
 
 of 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 y 
 
t 
 
 158 The Art of Dying. 
 
 oftndigo being fufficient for a hundred of 
 this fort of Woad, and he ought to put the 
 Indigo and, the Woad in together, and hin- 
 der their growing hot again for the reafons 
 above, mention'd, of which he ought to 
 take particular care. 
 
 XII. 
 
 Indian The Dyers to help and highten their bfew 
 
 feUle falfify Indian Wood, which baftardiies the colour, 
 3Jlews ' and makes it wear ill. This falfification can- 
 not he better prevented than by a ftrift 
 Prohibition that the Dyers of the great 
 Dye (hould not be fuffered to have them 
 in their Houfes, nor ufe them in any co- 
 lour in the great Dye. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 The Blew Dye may be rendred brighter 
 Kbe bydncing the Wafer it is Dyed an 
 8STi well waflied in a little warm Water ale, 
 
 reader them kh a little AllOHl : But It IS « 
 
 . « W 'W both for the Stuff anc I Dye to flU 
 with a liquid or melted Soap, and after 
 wards to cleanfe it very well from the fa 
 Sran The deeper mixtures of blew may 
 
 fame meafures are taken with bky co 
 and the lighter blews they wi I loft tn 
 bright Blew Luftre and mclme to Grey^ 
 
&t< 
 
 ffle Art of Dying. Vjfr 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Bran and Starch Waters being good to 
 dry and cleanfe Blews from any clammy 
 fbulnefs, when they are defign'd for another 
 colour, are of no ufe in brightning Blews 
 which are finiflied, as well becaufe the Brari 
 is apt to dry them too much and leave 
 fomethtng in the Hair of the Stuffs which 
 fpots it like a Leper and hinders the Grai- 
 ning and Shearing the Stuffs, as becaufe 
 the Starch Waters leave a fort of mealineis 
 upon the Stuffs, and deprive them of the 
 necelfary pliable foftnefs. 
 
 XV. 
 
 which make four mixtures in the Compofi- of g°° d 
 tion of other Colours. The gift is the Scarier, Red ' 
 called the Gobelins or French Scarlate., the 
 Second Crimfon; the Third Madder ,Red 
 or Rouge deGarance h the Fourth, half Scarlate 
 Rouge de Bemy grain j the Fifth half Crim- 
 ion • bixth Rome de Nacarat de Bourre, or 
 bcarlet fhred Dye, a Colour fomewhat paler 
 than Orange, encliningto Crimfon: The Se- 
 venth The Dutch Cochineal Scarlate. Thefe 
 ieven forts of good Red, may be reduced to 
 three from the three principal Drugs which 
 gives them the Dye, namely the Kermes 
 cemes, Cochineal and Madder t but this di- 
 vifion not being fo proper for the mixtures, 
 
 rlr^ T POf r 10 r ? f ?° lours > *• (hall ra^ 
 ther make ufe of the former, XVI 
 
 
i6o 
 
 The Art of Vying. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 Madder 
 Red 
 
 late *, u fl ench Scariate after if 15 Boiled with 
 Starch Waters, and again boil'd with other 
 Starch Waters, Allom,alittie dr. Tartar an d • 
 Arfenic, is Colour'd Red with Agaric, Starch 
 Waters and Chermes Berries in grain and 
 palte of which Berries the beft fort come 
 trom Languedoc. Some Dyers f iperadd Co- 
 chineal, others Fenugreek, after which it 
 as brightened with Starch Water, Agaric 
 Tartar and Turmerick. The Scarlates which 
 are defign'd for a deeper Dye, ought not to 
 be brightned, if we don't defign they ihould 
 encline to the Scariate Hired, Nacarat, or 
 Ora nge Red. 
 
 XVII 
 
 crimfon or Qimfon after 'tis Boiled with Starch 
 Waters, Allomand dry Tartar is tinged Red 
 with Starch Waters, Tartar and Cochineal, 
 Mojfeque or T d\ which comes from the 
 Indies and ^ rhe deareft Drug in Dying. 
 
 xvm 
 
 . the lUadder Reds after being boiled with 
 Allom, dry Tartar, Bran and Starch Water, 
 are ting'd Red with the fineft Madder, which 
 comes from Flanders^ and which may he 
 Cultivated in feveral parts of France where 
 it grows naturally. Someufe Realgar or Ar- 
 fenick, in the; BcvHUon or boiling Ingredi 
 
 ' ents 
 
J^ott 
 
 tt fort co: 
 •'peraddf 
 
 '* which 
 
 tfer, % 
 fetes ffjj 
 ight not 
 :hey'fta 
 
 ^acarar, 
 
 with Si 
 ; tinged! 
 [ Cocfc ' 
 is from tt 
 1 Dying- 
 
 boiled^: 
 
 lder,€ 
 :h may 
 
 a ins 
 
 y 
 
 gl« 
 
 The Art of Dying. 16 1 
 
 tnts, others common or othef Salt with 
 Wheat Flower in the Madderage, or rather 
 ibme Agaric or Spirit of Wine, with Galls 
 orTurmerick. 
 
 .XIX. 
 
 Half grains or Half Scarlates, after being Align 
 boiled in the lame manner as Scarlate, are or r J^ m 
 tinged Red with Agaric, Starch Waters, l 
 one half Madder, and the other Chermes 
 Berries, fome adding Turmerick when they 
 brighten them in the lame manner as Scar- 
 late. 
 
 XX. 
 
 Half Crimfons after boiling as theCrim- Demy or 
 ions or MadderReds, are turn'd red with one halt 'c™» 
 half Madder,and the other half Cochineal. lon * 
 
 XXI. 
 
 The Nacarat Flock or Hired-Red, is pre- ȴ* 
 pared by boiling the Scarlate Flocks or K 
 lhreds in a Bouillon with dry Tartar and 
 afterward with Starch Waters, Allom and 
 Dry Tartar, then moderately Maddered 
 and afterwards foaked in a Lye made of 
 Tartar Allies, clarifyed and corre&ed with 
 urine, and other light non-dying Ingredi- 
 ents 5 this is to be uled as an eJTence extraa- 
 ed from the Colour of the Madder. But your 
 £turrs ought to be firit Dyed Yellow, be- 
 fore they are fit for the Reception of this 
 Dve. M XXJL 
 
 ' 
 
162 The Art of Dying. 
 
 XXII. 
 
 £«**"- Dutch SaLthtQ is ^ wkh AUon ^ 
 
 Tartar, Sal-Gemmae, Aquafortis and Peafe 
 Flower in a tin Kettle, or elle with Aqua 
 forth wherein Tin hath been diiTolved ; this 
 Colour is tinged with Starch, Tartar^ Aqua 
 forth and Cochineal Mejfecal or Tefcalle in 
 the fame Kettle. The manner of Cochi- 
 nealing it mult diiFer according as the 
 manner of boiling does. This Colour is one 
 of the brighteft, it eafily foils or ipots either 
 by Dirt, ftanding Water, Lye or other acci- 
 dents, of which efpecial care ought to be 
 taken, tho 3 there is no other Remedy in 
 this cafe, than to repafsit through the Dye. 
 
 Brafi) Red 
 
 a baiiaxd 
 Dye. 
 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 Befidesthefe forts of Reds which are 
 good dyes, and ought to be permitted, 
 there is alio another fort made with Bra- 
 fil Wood, which ought to prohibited be- 
 caule it produces a 'baftard Dye, and the 
 Sun, the Air, the Dirt, the lealt fharp or 
 Salt Water foils and fpots it, and becaufe 
 it is a itrange drug which draws a great deal 
 of money out of France, befides that all the 
 mixtures, which are made with this Colour, 
 may be very well fupplied and eafily imi- 
 tated with" good Reds and Ingredients, 
 that .ferve to give and prepare Stuffs to 
 receive a Red Dye. 
 
 XXIV. 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 163 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 The fineft Yellows after being boiled Ye3 '°w 
 withAllom alone, or with Allom and dry>2& f,tb 
 Tartar, are' Coloured with Spamjb 'Broom, Broom - 
 which grows in feveral Provinces in France. 
 Wrick which comes from the Indies, Turmen , k , 
 produces alfoa fort of fellow, which is none *$ Mian 
 of the belt Colours ,but ierves to tinge ^V 
 
 duceallo 
 
 Xellow and brighten thofe Colours wherein **« 
 
 w Co- 
 
 9*f me l Berr M Cochi neal and Madder is X! 
 ufed : The Yellow Wood alfo which 
 comes fipm the Indies, produces a Yellow 
 enclimng to Gold Colour: 
 
 XXV. 
 
 A Third fort of Yellow is made with s< ™, t ,, nl 
 -Wand Geneji'relk, which becaufe it is *W 
 
 fe°rL?. f a | that ma n de of %'"> Broom, &*& 
 ferves only for green Phillamorts and other Ycl1 "»• 
 compound Colours, where it is very proper: 
 it may alfo be ufed to dye Gurnets coarfc 
 Wool and Stujfe, wHil don? eleS'S 
 
 ITZ-l I"' ^Countries Where there is 
 no cipanijh Broom. 
 
 XXVP. 
 
 • the^l^'fr^ Brown is ffl ade with 
 
 • Brown m, £°$* S ° 0d Colour - A g«od 
 
 °° C ' but that be '»g of an unfavoury Sell, 
 m ^ 2 and 
 
 Brown is 
 prepared 
 from the 
 Koot, ba^r 
 ^9* leaves at" 
 the Wal- 
 nut-tree & 
 rhe ihells of 
 
 rhe.Nuts, 
 
 Soot is 
 
 alia ufed so 
 
 / J hillataort 
 or Ox co» 
 
 lour. 
 
* 
 
 1 6 4 The Art of Dying. 
 
 and Wal-nut Trees being very plentiful i« 
 France, tis only ufed in Philfamorts, Ox 
 Colours and other Dyes of that fort, where 
 it is more proper and yields a finer Colour 
 than Walnur-tree ; and it may likewife be 
 ufed inOlive Green or Olive Colours. 
 
 XXVII. 
 
 SE*'* ff^ yields a Colour betwixt Brown 
 
 Rat or Bat and Grey, and gives a good luftre to mixt 
 
 colour. Wool, and being cleaned in the fulling 
 
 Mills may be permitted for the mixture 
 
 of Wool of a rat coloured Grey, and not 
 
 for ftufFes or other Colours befides the Rat 
 
 Grey mixture. 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 forbid* 
 
 uXlrbc Tientanel, Malherbe,*Fuftel and other in- 
 gradients, yield a Colour betwixt Yellow 
 and Brown * fome mix foot with them, to 
 make a perfect Brown, but this and other 
 Colours which are finer being more certainly 
 prepared from Spanijh Brown, and Walnut- 
 tree roots, and the two firft fmelling very 
 offenfively and being Prejudicial to the £yes 
 ofthofe who ufe them, 'tis proper that the 
 General ufe of them fhould be forbid. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 Black is prepared or Galled with Galls 
 
 which come from Aleppo or Alexandria£z\te& 
 
 Qalle dV Ephe Thorn Galls, and Sumach* 
 
 and 
 
The Art of Dying. 165 
 
 and in Places where they have no Sumach ^ Ia , c . k ™ h 
 with Rodoul or Fovic, which grow in feveral SKS. 
 Places in France, and which are equivalent f?*' Fnk > 
 to Sumach : A Black is alfo made of Cope- nSfitYd- 
 ras and Www Wood, which lait though alone ]£J ^ 
 it produces a baftard Colour, yet when ufed s™&. 
 withGalls and Coperas it affords a more du- 
 rable bright, fbft and blacker Colour upon 
 btuffs, and wears better, than if Galls and * 
 Coperas were ufedwithout it; but care ought 
 
 It * i?r ke !! tha i £° much of " be not ufe d|nd 
 that Woad and Madder be not ufed too /bar- 
 ing^ any more than Galls and Coperas, the ' 
 Indian Wood being to be added to the reft 
 without any diminution of their proportion! 
 But lfyon would make the hair of the fi- 
 ned and midling forts of Wool fofter or 
 more flexible and pliable to the fingers of 
 the Spinfter and in the fulling mill, you 
 ought to augment the lniian Wood and 
 
 i mm t th f CT ras in F°portion1n the 
 dying Wool Black. You may alfo ufe Yellow 
 Wood with a littleof the fineft verdigreafe 
 
 XXX. 
 
 Another fort of Black is made with Al 
 
 £ftT kand Smiths C «fe or G Jders 
 duft , but as this alone does not yield a SS 
 S b « makes the Stuffs and \Vools 
 rough and hard as well as really Ees 
 
 N 3 XXXI. 
 
 Smiths du/ 1 , 
 filings of 1- * 
 run or cop- 
 per ubfblute- 
 ly forbidden 
 »n all blacks 
 and all o- 
 ther colours 
 of Wool or 
 ftaff*. 
 
 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 XXXI. 
 
 Befides the Five Simple Colours, that 
 oiOrfeih makes an agreeable mixture from 
 Peach to blolTom Colour Pale Pink, Light 
 Flax, Amaranthy or Red Purple ^ and Indian 
 Wood tinges Stuffs boiled with Allom 
 and Tartar, with a mixture betwixt the 
 light and the dark Violet : but as thefe 
 two are baftard Colours which may be 
 made good and one may eafily imitate that 
 of Indian Wood and that ofOrfeile through- 
 out the flrft Colours, it is neceflary to for- 
 bid Indian Wood abfolutely and to per- 
 mit Orfeile only in meaner Stuffs not ex- 
 ceeding 20 pence the Ell. 
 
 Obfervations on the Second, Fart. 
 
 FRom the 7th §. to the i^th £. exclufive, 
 the Author treats of the Permiflion of 
 the molt proper ingredients in the Blew Dye ; 
 and here 'twill not be improper to remark ♦, 
 That in our common Dye Houles in our 
 Blews the mifufefeems to grow, for they 
 ule Indigo alone boiled with Madder and 
 Pot-Afhes, or at the moft temper'd with 
 half Woad. An* Example of the Firft is 
 as follows, which is ufed and called good 
 Blew by our Diers, &c. Take of Indigo 
 that is good and clear one Pound, of Red 
 Madder as much, of Pot-Allies from three 
 to four Pound, four Ladles full of tfnflaked 
 
 Lime 
 
# 
 
 til? 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Lime, four Handfulls of Wheat Bran, and 
 laftly about eight quarts of Urine, let it 
 boil four Hours, fill the Kettle half full of 
 Water, and after that put in more Water 
 by degrees, keep it lukewarm Twenty four 
 Hours, and if it is too weak, put in of un- 
 flaked Lime and Pot Afhes of each a La- 
 dle full to ftrengthen itj we ought allb'to 
 fteep the Indigo in Urine over night to di£ 
 iolve, otherwife the Lime cannot be well fe- 
 parated from it. If more Indigo be 
 
 Eut in, the Colour will be Blacker and 
 arder : The Pot Afhes is ordered in fo 
 large a quantity as well to break the Mad- 
 der, as becaufe it will encline to Red and 
 baftardife the Blew, fo that a fufficient 
 quantity thereof is required $ tho'anunequal 
 quantity is mentioned, yet if it be boiled in 
 theleaft too much, the whole Dye is fpoil- 
 ed or at leaft rendred weak, or fading and 
 not durable, and indeed the dye itielf 
 at beft is not good, but apt to fpot with 
 the leaft drop of fharp or acid liquors that 
 can fall on the Stuffs. The following pre- 
 paration of Indigo and Woad is much bet- 
 ter. After your Wafer hath boiled a little 
 in the Kettle put in four or fivQ Handfulls of 
 Wheat Bran, four tb of Pot-Afhes, let it boil 
 a good Hour, then put in four lb of Mad- 
 der and let it boil a quarter of an Hour, the 
 Copper being full to about Six Inches 'and 
 cover'd 5 . then addlndigoand Woad of each 
 bix ft and Eleven fc of Pot- Afhes, put them 
 into a little Kettle of Warm Water let it 
 boil moderately about half an' Hour, 
 
 M 4 ftjr? 
 
 * 77 
 
 
 i 
 
i*8 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 ffirring it continually and then put it into the 
 Copper to the other. The Indigo Dye or 
 that prepared from Indigo alone , muft be 
 done by a Lye made with Pot-Alhes with 
 the addition of four or five Handfulls of 
 Bran, £ or \ of a tfc of Madder, let it boil^ 
 of an Hour and fettle, after which beat your 
 Indigo to a fine Powder, in a morter , 
 then put it to the Lye and let it fettle, and 
 pour on frefh and decant till the Lye becomes 
 clear and free from all manner of Colour $ 
 but if the quantity of Woad be doubled and 
 inftead of Six Pound of Indigo you ule Se- 
 ven fr, the Dye will be much better'd, and 
 rend red more agreeable. However the firft 
 preparation of Indigo is uncertain, and there- 
 fore is not to be cholen, and this alone is 
 good -, it renders the Indigo conformable 
 to the mixture with the Woad, and makes 
 it (harper or Itronger, and when you ufe a 
 ftaler Ground of Suds, is neceffary. We 
 ought to obferve that Red of it felf is fading 
 andchanging,and therefore to prevent ipotting 
 Madder ought to be ufed very Iparingly, 
 or omitted becaufe it falfirles the Colour and 
 enclinesit to Violet, and if you would pro- 
 duce a deeper Blew, tis better to tinge it 
 with the Cochineal purple dye of which our 
 Author treats in §. xffiib, As to §.xvtb. where 
 our Author enumerates Seven forts ofRed^in 
 our Dyeries,the Chermes Berries are but lit- 
 tle ufed, for molt Reds are Dyed with Co- 
 chineal, fo that French Scoxl ate and half 
 Grains are but feldom Dyed. The Crimfon 
 Madder Red, half Crimfon and Na carat 
 
 ac : 
 
# The Ah of Vying. 
 
 according to §. xxii. are more in uie. In all 
 Reds 'tis necefTary to Allom the cloths, 
 which is commonly done with two parts Al- 
 lom and one part Tartar, but others corro- 
 bate the Allom with Bran, Starch, Peafe 
 and Bean flower * or in the Suds, with pre- 
 pared Meal Water or Starch W^ter which 
 are fo named without diftinftion. This 
 Meal Water is nothing elfe but a thin fort of 
 Jeven, which is to be made as followeth : 
 Take about Five or Six Quarts of Wheat 
 bran, boil it in rain Water about a quarter 
 of an Hour, put alfo lome cold Water in a 
 little tub, and mix it with a Handful of le- 
 ven the lburer the better h the only effecl: the 
 Dyer expefts from theBranis, that it foftens 
 the Water, and renders the Wool and Stuffs 
 more pliant, and 'tis moftly ufed in the firft 
 Suds, which I mentioned. Allom Water 
 and the Meal Water, is alfo commonly mixt 
 with the Dye. What effect Agarick hath 
 is to the Mafters in this Art themfelves un- 
 known,otherwife than by the prolix comen- 
 dations of loud Mouth'd Fame, but where- 
 in its Virtue confifts no body can determine 
 without being of a foft Spongy nature it 
 be iomewhat affiftant to the Aqua forth in 
 abiorbing the clammy fatnefs ( which our 
 Author §. jwii. afcribes to it J And concerning 
 its attraftive Nature the Author feems to 
 Hint it when he tells us that Starch Water 
 and torch leave a fort of mealy Spots 
 or mealinefs upon the Stuffs 5 and Aearic bv 
 its attraftve Nature and White Suhftahce 
 renders the Dy, brighter and cS it 
 
 1^9 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 
ijo The Art of Dying. 
 
 As for Arfenic, 'tis a very dangerous IW 
 wherefore, twou'd be better to try AquaiorV 
 tis, Spirit of Salt, or Sai~armoniac in the 
 perfecting this Colour, ind difrnifs this in- 
 jurious gueft, for fear the very keeping it 
 in our Houfes, fhould occafion fome ill ac- 
 cidents by, it's Taftlefs quality, and becaufe 
 it is Cuftomary, after the Wafhing of new 
 born Infants, for the firft Week in (Germ- 
 ity and in other Countries alio) to rub them 
 with Scarlate Cloaths, and "if this Drug be 
 ufed, tho' in the leaft quantity, it may eaii- 
 \y occafion very pernicious confequences. 
 The Crimfon Dye is very' well known, and 
 according to § xviith^ may be very eaiily 
 prepared,' if it receives no damage from the 
 Fire, upon the due care of which depends 
 pore than is imagined, as he that tries will 
 find to his lo% however to oblige the Lovers 
 of this Art, I will give the following proof 
 of the preparation of this Dye : Make a 
 Meal-water with four Wheat Bran, Liqvefe 
 , and put it into Rain-water and boil them 
 together, then take Cochineal, (which has 
 the precedent Night been diffolv'd in Wa- 
 ter) put in firft a little in a Ladle into the 
 Water, and then ftir it about, and fo or 
 till you have put in all h then the Stuffs to 
 be Dyed, being before Allom'd, are to be 
 put in, and when that is done they may," 
 the Dyer pleafes, be drawn thro 5 a Lye, 
 which may be added Tartar Afhes, or, 
 take of Cochineal and White-wine lees, or 
 Tartar, an equal quantity, and put 'em into 
 Hot Water, and let the Stuffs be rinced in 
 
\\i 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 it or drawn thro' it^fome add a littleArfenic, 
 but there js yet no good Rgafon given why. 
 In the xvinth §.the manner of Dying Madder 
 Red is prefcribed, which is indeed not very 
 difficult: One Pound of Madder is Suffici- 
 ent to Dye vili ft of Stuff, it being rlrft 
 prepared and difpofed to the reception of 
 the Colour, by Allom and Tartar. Pot- 
 Afhes very much heightens Madder Dyes. 
 Bran or Bran-Water ought always to be 
 mixt amtfngft the Red Dye. As for Brandy 
 or Spirit of Wine, h brightens and throw's 
 forth the Colours, in an extraordinary man- 
 ner, fearching into the inmoft Parrs of the 
 Dye, and cleanfing it from all Terreftrehy 
 ftots or foils , and by the ufe of it the' 
 Dyer will find' an Incredible advantage ac- 
 crue to him. Turmerick is ufed alone in 
 the Yellow and the mixture of Galls turns it 
 Brown, the Virtues of which yon have in i 
 iv. HalfCrlmfon of both forts in ?. xixand 
 §. xx. may according' to the Dyers pleafure 
 and capacity be ufed 5 that in §; ***. called 
 Nacarat Red isunufual,and unknown,and ac- 
 companied with a great deal of unneceffary 
 Labour and Charge, and withal very Unprofi- 
 table becaufe it is not lafting. The Dutch Scar- 
 late is moll in ufe and is well enough def 
 cnbed in§. xxil For every rb of Stuff, mull 
 be uled z. Ounce of Cochineal, more or lefs 
 according to it's Goodnefs . One Ounce 
 and an half of Aquafortis > in the Allomins 
 lome put Sal-Armoniac in the place of Al 
 lorri in the Suds 5 the Cochineal mull always 
 be beaten and prepared with Tartar. Scar- 
 
 late 
 
 171 
 
7 2 
 
 
 i 
 
 The Art of Vying. 
 
 late is nothing elfe but a bright Primr* 
 more or Ids changed to tKdto?Jj 
 Aquafortis is Ae Ground of the whoJ 
 change for in a Wine Glafs the Dye rnal 
 be turn'd even to Yellow, and after bS 
 again, and with Precipitating what the 
 Dye conhfts of be brought to no Colour 
 That this Scarlate will eafily i po t, is too 
 well known, and the Caufe thereof very 
 clear ; and all Water brings it ,more or 
 lels to a Cnmfon again. Starch encreafesthe 
 bubitance of the Dye, thickens k and 
 renders it more Vilcous, and ftiffens the Stuff 
 by its mealy Nature. The Fernabock Brafil 
 Red, is very common in our Dyeries, for they 
 Dye a fort of Crimfon with that and Pot- 
 Allies, mentioned, i xxiii, tho' Experience 
 contradifts his Affertion there. When we 
 come to fpeak of mixt Dyes, we fhall fay 
 fomething of a Scarlate, prepared from the 
 Madder and Yellow Wood. Yellow is a- 
 mongfl: us prepared with Dyers Weed, and 
 finilhed with Broorri •, fome ufe Melilot, o- 
 therwife called Wild Clavers,16me Corn or 
 Wild-Mary-golds, fome Turmerick which 
 is very Rich in Colour. Veritel Wood is 
 alio uled as is the GummiGuttar, for leveral 
 ends.The Yellow Dye is not verv difficultits 
 foundation lyes in the vegetables, and then 
 the Pot-alhes which heightens thern. Tuu 
 inerick Yellow Wood and Gummi Guttar, 
 which'lbme ufe, don't tinge the Stuffs kindly 
 unlefs they be firft prepared with Mom, 
 and drawn thro' the Dye till it is Yellow 
 enough. Turmerick and Gummi Guttir, are 
 
 uled 
 
*t Ok,' 
 
 Vol! '*** 
 
 Hi! 
 
 Mat ) 
 
 ^° Colo t 
 
 hereof Vf 
 IC »more 
 
 w it ai 
 
 ?ck Bra! 
 
 ^fortfe 
 ; and ft 
 ^xperiei 
 
 •Vhen i 
 ftalli 
 from 
 [low Is; 
 fed. 
 
 Tfo Art of Dying. 
 
 «fed in the Yellowing of Scarlates as in §. 
 xxiv. and xvi. and xviii. The Brown of §. xxvi 
 is not much in fafhion with us,tho according 
 to the directions of the beft Ar tilts, Walnut 
 leaves and (hells are Chiefly ufed in Silk Dy- 
 ing, the Wood and Root not being in ufe. Soot 
 is alio ufed rho' not alone, yet in mixt Dyes 
 as our Author tells us. The Brown Dye 
 confifts moltly in mixtures, either of Red 
 and Black, or Yellow and Black according to 
 the Dyers pleafure. As to §. xxix. concerning 
 the preparation of Black, you may find in our 
 firfr Obiervation^ that previous preparati- 
 ons of Woad or Madder Grounds or Boiling 
 in Galls, are not in ufe amongft our Coun- 
 try Dyers, for they generally Dye Black 
 with one Fatt of Suds only. 
 
 J 73 
 
 Com 
 
 Wod\ 
 rfeveri 
 
 nd dp 
 
 0! 
 AIM 
 
 
 '$ 
 
 PART in 
 
 Matures of Colours, which Proceed from the 
 five Principal Colours. 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 T H vL Fi !f- ^ imple 9°}°T> ""P* fe -Mi«^ or 
 
 • veral mixtures of Colours, beginning Colo »". 
 with hghteft Pale, or Faint and ending with 
 the deepelt or Darkeft. 5 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 The Blew mixtures are le Bleu Blanc 
 
 White "" Mil * 
 
 tures* 
 
174 The Art of Dying. 
 
 White fwVBjeu Naijfant bright Blew 
 BbuPab Pale Blew, Bleu mourdn fig 
 Blew, Bleu Mtgnon, --Bleu Celefte Sky Co. 
 lour, Bleu Regne — Bleu Turquin Tnrm 
 Blew, Blende Roy —-Fleur deGuefde Spank 
 Broom Bloffom $ Bleu P ere - ~ Aldego i.$ 
 Bleu d* Enfer. 
 
 XXXIV. 
 
 fo* c <£ °? 1:he Seven forts of good Reds, there aic 
 
 good Reds only Four, from which we draw mixtures. 
 
 A^J^J the Madder Red, Crimfon, ^ 
 
 tures. de Bourre or F lock Red, a Colour fomewhat 
 
 paler than Orange, enclining to Crimfon 
 
 and the Dutch Scarlate. The Madder Red 
 
 produces but very few, but we never :dm 
 
 any mixtures from the French Scarlate, nei* 
 
 ther from half Grain nor half Crimfon, tho 
 
 feveral mixt Dyes may be produced from 
 
 the half Crimlbn. 
 
 XXXV. 
 
 Mixtures of The mixtures of Madder Red are Flefh 
 
 Madder red qj^ 0nion ^ fc£ ft a 1Me flackn}l] g 
 
 of the Dye in the Copper ^ Flame 
 Colour, Madder Ifabella, Tile Colour, 
 deep Madder Colour, Givgeolin, Jujuh 
 Colour beingaYellowifh Red, and Madder 
 Red. The Flameand Flefh Colours, as well 
 as the Onion may alfo be Dyed with Co- 
 chineal, but the Ifabella and the Tile Co- 
 lours are the much better'd by rincing them 
 
 in the Dutch Maddefd Scarlate. v - 
 
 XX a Vl> 
 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 *75 
 
 
 '& 
 
 
 XXXVI. 
 
 The mixtures of Crimfbn are Apple Mixtures ©f 
 Bloflbm, Flefh Colour, Peach Bloflorri, Role crimfon*. 
 Colour, htcarnadin or Anemone Flefh 
 Colour, Rofy Flefh Colour, deep Flefh Co- 
 lour and Crimfbn. 
 
 XXXVII. 
 
 The mixtures of the Rouge de Bonrre or 
 Pale Orange inclining to Crimfon are the *}££ r ^f 
 fame with Crimfon, but the Colours it pro- 
 duces are more Rofy or lively according 
 to the well or ill ordering of the Fufion or 
 Suds, or to tha long or fhort duration of the 
 Stuffs in the Allom, but the Incardines de 
 Bourre or Anemony Flefh Colours are not u- 
 fed to rich Stuffes ( becaufe the Dye is not -m 
 
 io good as that of Cochineal; but only in 
 ftuffes not exceeding Twenty pence the E1L 
 
 XXXVIII. 
 
 The mixtures of Dutch Scarlate Kefir^ Mlxt i irc . s ° r 
 the flaming Flefh Colour, iSS^S^iS? 1 * 
 
 £1 £v Anemony Flefh Colour , and deep 
 Mem Colour, which it produces in common 
 With the Crimfon and Rouge de Bourre by- 
 adding AUomto the Suds h yield cherr/ 
 Nacarateor Pale Orange enclining to Crim- 
 en wild Poppy Colour, Fire Colour and 
 Outcb Scarlate, which may alfo be produced 
 with the Bourre or Crimfon Orange Dvc 
 
 * tho> 
 
 
l 7 6 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 
 the' it tinges the Stuffs too much toward 
 the Yellow. u 
 
 xxxix. ■ 
 
 Brafil; Red 
 en. 
 
 Btafil Red which is a baftard Colour^ is 
 imitated • but a much better Dye is prepared 
 from Madder, Cochineal, and the Flock or 
 {hearing Dye ? for which reafon,Ifhali lay 
 nothing of this Mixture, it being forbidden, 
 
 
 \ 
 
 XL. 
 
 
 $he Dyers ought to be left to their own 
 liberty to make their advantage of what 
 remains of the Suds or baths of Good 
 Dyes, that they may ule them in Colours 
 which their Judgment or Induftry may 
 prompt them to* 
 
 XLI. 
 
 The Yellow's ate the bright Yellow, 
 yiiioT 5 of %emmon Colour, Pale Yellow, Straw Co- 
 lour, common Yellow, and Gold Colour, 
 
 XL1L 
 
 ILl T T No mixtures are prepared from 'the 
 S£Sr£ Brown, or Walnut Colour, tho' this taple 
 Colour is ufedin the Compolition of &* 
 • al Compound Colours. 
 
 XLIII- 
 
i 
 
 the Art of tying. 
 
 XLIIL 
 
 Grey is a mixture of Black from the light- 
 ed fort which is White or light Grey, to 
 thedeepelt which is Black grey, but if the 
 Black be prepared from Galls and Coperas, 
 tisnot fo proper in grey Mixtures, for you 
 can draw very little Grey from thence ; but 
 Indian Wood is added in fluffs which don't 
 exceed Twenty pence the Ell, and fluffs for 
 SW* exce 5 di "§ Thirty pence the Ell. 
 
 the WW* fft ""A 7 b£ ptoduced are 
 the White or light Grey , Pearl Grey 
 
 1^" Gtey, Lavender Grey, Beaver Grey' 
 
 ^-dove Grey, Slate Gre^ Fift or S 
 Cirey, Brown Grey, Twilight or Evening 
 Gwjr^w de Moron and Black Grey: but the J 
 Colou rs are better'd by a little mixture of 
 Orfalle, or a flack Woad Dye but for xhl 
 Juffs which exceed xx pence the E 
 or .n. ng , hic h exceed Lx, infed of 
 
 Z f' r S° chmeal and Madder ought 
 to be ufed, to render the Colour befter 
 and more certain. r 
 
 XLIV. 
 whle G l [S°r ferVed ' ttet in CoI °^ 
 
 N 4 
 
 
 177 
 
 
178 The Art of Vyitig. 
 
 Obfervations on the ^d Part. 
 
 In this Third Part is treated 6f the gra- 
 dation of Colours^ how from the lighteft 
 
 moft Pale or faint, they proceed to the deep. 
 eft or darkeft, and that without any remaf. 
 kable mixturewith otherdying Ingredients, 
 only, by the quantity of the Colour or long- 
 er boiling of it, or by the addition of ma- 
 terials which in themfelves afford no tin- 
 fture, yet occafion a great Alteration in the 
 Dyes* For example, in the Red Madder Dye, 
 If the Madder be corrected with Pot-Aftes, 
 it produces a genuine bright Red, but if it 
 be augmented according to the weight of 
 the Stuffs, it grows darker and darker, and 
 put into the Liquor more or lefs Coperas, 
 it yields an agreeable fort of brown, lighter 
 or deeper, according to the degrees the Artift 
 defigns s but mix Coperas alone with the 
 Madder, and it quite alters the Dye to an a- 
 greeable Colour betwixt dark Yellowiffi Red, 
 andBrown,which maybe experimented in the 
 fmall compafs of a Wine Glafs-, and the Ar- 
 tift hath an Inltruftion fufficiently advanta- 
 geous what Colours may be heightned or 
 improved, without the addition of other Co- 
 lours, and with very little trouble. f, *7. In- 
 forms us that the remains of the Suds, alter 
 a piece of Stuff has been Dyed, are ltill 01 
 life; and for one Inltanee, 'tis to be remem- 
 bred that the Turhifi Blew Suds ( one 01 
 the deep Mews J after it has beenufedwm 
 Dye the bleu bhnc or White Blew and tne 
 
The An of Dying. 
 
 Bleu Naifsant or fright Blew if the Colour 
 hath not been before too much exhaufted, 
 fouled or changed, or at the worft fo much 
 Pot Afhes put in as tinges the Dye Green, 
 and baftardifesit:But more efpeeially the 
 remaining Suds of Black is ufed in our 
 German Dyeries fot* the Darkning or dee- 
 pningall ions of Dyes. 
 
 *79 
 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 OF Compound Colours, which are produced 
 from the mixture, of two or more Simple 
 Lolours. x 
 
 XLV. 
 
 A L1 ™ xt ?™tf Compound Colours aieDiftn> 
 
 made, by the mixture of two or more rio * <* * 
 pimple Colours, but they diverfity their r7T d 
 Colours according to the diverfity oKS 
 which are ufed in the Simple Colours g f 
 which thefe are compofed. 5 
 
 XLVL 
 
 From the mixture of Blew and French 
 Scarlate are produced Coiileur J/-B+1 ****** 
 Kings Colour rv»; ' f 7 . % the j*™* &»*- 
 
 
i8o 
 
 Blew and 
 Crimfon. 
 
 The Art of Dying, 
 
 a fort of Violet Brown, and the Violet not 
 brightned h but this mixture is very feldom 
 tiled, becaufe of thedearnefs of the Dye, and 
 becaufe thefe Colours are more conveniently 
 and cheaper produced with Madder and 
 Cochineal, than with Chermes Berries. 
 
 XLVIL 
 
 From Blew and Crimfon are eompofed 
 Dove Colour, Purple, Amarante or Red 
 Purple Crimfon, Paw/y, or Violet Brown and 
 Violet Crimfon. From the fame mixtures 
 (the Stuffs being lefs boiled in Allom and 
 Tartar^) are produced the Silver Grey, Flax 
 Grey, Flax Bloffom Colour, Violet Grey and 
 gris Vineux (a fort of Grey enclining to Rofe 
 Wine Colour-,) from thele two mixtures al- 
 io are compofed, all forts of Grey Crim- 
 ions, and other Crimfbns where the Brown 
 is mixt, as Lavender Grey, Sage Grey, Wild 
 Dove Colour, Leaden Grey, Slate fcolour, 
 Brown Bread Colour and Trifiamie. Tis to be 
 Noted, that all thofe Colours are called 
 Crimfon, which are made with Cochineal. 
 
 XLVIH 
 
 Ba&rrd Co- AH Grey and other Crimfbns, where 
 «hin<*i. Brown is mixt ^ may be pre p are d with Baft- 
 ardor Wild Cochineal, as well as the Dove, 
 Purple, Amarante or Red Purple, Panfy or 
 Violet Brown,and Violet Crimfbns, in Stuffs 
 not exceeding xx pence the Ell -, alio all 
 Wools ufed in the mixture of high prizg* 
 
-*- — 
 
 The 4rt of Dying. 181 
 
 Stuffs render the price of Dying as eafy as 
 poffib e, without injuring the goodnefs of 
 L c a ■ M ^ cr <™y alio be put into 
 the buds, in thofe Dyes which will bear it. 
 
 XLIX. 
 
 From the mixture of Blew and Mid^r , 
 Red, are compoled Cole lir Y% S t"A 
 colour, Cohur de Trhccfnncts Colour and 
 rmn.rne or deep Tawny, as well as Tawny 
 
 RoTe Colour, tho> the three laff are much 
 better prepared with half Crimfon. The 
 
 TZ^ ee? T r ny often *™ s 'oof 
 or fomethmg to deepen the Brown • all 
 
 Greys are compofed of Madder which 
 
 are finiuYd with Walnut-tree root ' S? 
 
 to /s Lavender Grey, Wild-piE? 
 
 *r» & mm*, Brown Grey, Twilight & 
 
 and other Greys of that nffi, 2& 
 
 ther with brown Bread Colour, TriftSe 
 
 Cohur f Alyce, Claver or Melil'ot Colom 
 
 Breda Grey, and other forts of Colours' 
 
 S C Brown TOmP ° fedofBleW Red Madd « 
 
 L. 
 From the mixture of Blew and half., 
 
 Sthus c?mpo !f d P tiie , Veivet coifife.. 
 
 much in ufe, becaufe of ' h? dea LI "of 
 Chermes Berries, which is ttpSguf 
 
 ** 31 grc- 
 
 
 J 
 
1 82 The Art of Vying. 
 
 gredient in one of thefe Colours 
 
 u 
 
 ?]cw & From the mixture of Blew and half 
 fon. nm " Crimfon is compofed the Amaranthus Co- 
 lour or red Purple, Tawny , dry Rofe, 
 Panfie or violet Brown and Velvet Colour- 
 in the two laft lefs Madder ought to be u- 
 ied than Cochineal becaufe the Panfie and 
 Velvet Colour muft be redder than the 0- 
 thers. From this mixture you may alio 
 produce the Grey Brown and the Evening 
 Grey. 
 
 LII. 
 
 Slew & 
 Rouge de 
 Bourre or 
 flock Red a 
 colour be- 
 twixt O- 
 range and 
 Crimfon. 
 
 Blew& 
 
 jt> wr d? Scar- 
 late* 
 
 * 
 
 From the mixture of Blew and the 
 Pale Orange, or Flock Colour, are produ- 
 ced the fame Colours, as with Crimfon^ but 
 the ufe of it ought to be forbid except in 
 Dove-Colour, Purple, Panfie, Violet, filver- 
 Grey, Flax Grey, Flax bloflbm Colour and 
 Violet Grey, in fluffs not exceeding 20 
 pence the Ell : if the Colours encline 
 too much to the red, a little Allom and a 
 weak Madder ground may be added. 
 
 LIII. 
 
 A mixture of Blew and Dutch Scarlateis 
 very feldom ufed, as well becaufeoltne 
 high price of the Colours, as that the co- 
 lours of this mixture are more eafily P 10 ' 
 duced with Madder and Crimfon. y 
 
. ^_ 
 
 183 
 
 f 
 
 The Art of Vying. 
 
 LJV. 
 
 There are leveral compound Colours, 
 which are made of leveral mixtures of Am- 
 ple, Colours j but they are produced finer., 
 better, more conveniently and cheaper, from 
 one Ingredient alone than leveral, as the 
 Art and Induftry of the Dyer will inform 
 him in the dilpofing and ule of it. 
 
 LV. 
 
 The mixture of Blew and Yellow yield, ydSw^o- 
 the Yellow Green, Gay Light Green, Grals duce a s rcc » 
 Green, Laurel Green, Malaquen Green^ 
 Brown Gre^n, and Dark Green: it affords 
 alio Sea Green, Celadon Green, a Green mixt 
 with White or Willow Green, Parrot 
 Green, Colewort Green, but thefe laft re- 
 quire lefs boiling than the former. The 
 Willow Green and the Brimftone Colours 
 may be made with Verdegreale, a Drug made 
 in France, Copper filings, and the Stems and 
 Stones of Grapes 5 the beft is made at Mont- 
 pettier In Languedoc, 
 
 LVL 
 
 From the mixtures of Blew and Brown Blew & 
 alone, no Colour is ever made ^ but feveral Brown * 
 are Produced from the mixture of Blew 
 and Brown, with the Addition of Cochineal 
 find Madder Red. 
 
 N 
 
 LVU 
 
i8 4 
 
 Blew & 
 Grey. 
 
 Red & 
 
 Yellow. 
 
 The Art of Dying, 
 
 LVII. 
 
 Nor are any Colours compofed of the 
 mixtures, of Blew and Gray, without the 
 Addition of fome other Colour, as Browii 
 pr Ked<. # 
 
 LVIII. 
 
 French Scarlate and Yellow are never 
 ; med to produce Gold Colour, Morning 
 dawning Yellow, Marigold Colour, Orange, 
 Pale Orange, Pomgranate Bloflbm, Wild 
 or Corn Poppy Colour or Fire Colour, be- 
 caufe thefe Colours are more conveniently 
 and cheaper prepared with Yellow, and 
 Madder Red or the Flock Red. i. e. Pale 
 Orange - But 4s thole Colours which are 
 prepared from Flocks or fhreds, require a 
 Spanijb Broom Yellow, fo the Gold Colour, 
 Day dawn Colour, and Madder'd Orange 
 requires the Spamjh Broom Yellow with 
 a little Turmerick in the Maddering , as 
 the Madder'd Nacarrat or Pale Orange re- 
 quires Turmerick alone. Isabella and Buff 
 Colours are alio prepared with a little Spa- 
 mfi Broom Madder or Flocks. : 
 
 LIX. 
 
 Nor are any Dyes made of the mixture 
 of Crimfon or Cochineal Red with half 
 Grain, nor of half Crimfon with Yellow, 
 rho 3 Turmerick agrees \Qty t wcll with 
 
 Co- 
 
The Aft of Dying. ^5 
 
 Cochineal and Chermes Berries ; The mix- 
 
 Suflcl^ ?^' 3nd Madder Re <* ^ng 
 buthcient and more convenient ro preparl 
 
 all forts of mixtures of Colours, which are 
 compofed of Red and Yellow. ? 
 
 LX. 
 
 Tho' it is faid that fevetal mixtures of, , 
 Colours are never m* ;, . lurcb ° r several* 
 lr.nr j*„..?t. made, it does not fol-thermh- L. 
 
 low, bat they may be made an<\ <-w;o,T mresofco- Is 
 
 lv laid to (hem fh,r»i, ' nCl ttat 1S 0i] - lo»™ are I \ 
 
 if the? te £ S^cheToer n f al V° r » - *'" 
 do„ e U SimpirCdSX S*~^ 
 the addition of others , But the eSfeSi ** ' 
 Dyer knows how to ufe the good SSL 
 which ate permitted, and to turn rh^' 
 pains of his Suds (after DyinTfomeVn* 
 our) to advantage i„ the mixturS S" 
 
 fe?atf S b- k Pro ^hat iig: 
 
 be abfolutely forWddln C ° l0Ur? ° U S ht t0 
 
 LXI. 
 
 1> 
 
 t 
 
 V 
 
 4 
 
 LXIL 
 

 i te 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Jrown. 
 
 LXII. 
 
 From the mixture of Red unboiled, and 
 Brown is produced Cinamon Colour, Cheft- 
 nut Colour, Musk and Bearskin Colours. 
 Musk Colour requires a rebate in the Dye 
 with Spanifl) Broom, and the Bearskin with 
 Spanijb Broom or Browning; Couleur de Roy 
 or Kings Colour may alio be very well 
 made with Madder Red, and the Brown 
 prepared from the leveral Parts of Walnut 
 Tree, but inltead of Mad4er, the Dyer of 
 the Lefler or flighter Dyes may ufe Orfeilk 
 for the rlrft ibrt of Colours, and only for 
 thfe Stuffs which don't exceed xx Pence the 
 Eli 5 but for the Kings Colour, it mult bt 
 Madder'd to a good Dye. 
 
 LXIII, 
 
 From the mixture of Yellow and Brown, 
 are produced all the mixtures of Philla- 
 mort, and Hair Colour, which are finer pre- 
 pared with Soot, than the leveral Parts 
 of Walnut-Tree, efpecially if the Soot be 
 ufed at the Latter end of a Maddering 
 that is mixt withTurmerick. 
 
 LXIV. 
 
 veiiow fa j No mixtures is made of Yellow with 
 
 Gre y- Black, Spanifr Broom ferving only to abate 
 
 the Rednefs of fome Grey Colours,_ and to 
 
 encline others to the Green,- as for inftance 
 
 War 
 
 Rcd& 
 
 Brown. 
 
The Art of Dying. 187 
 
 Water Grey, Green Grey, Goofe turd Green 
 and the like Colours. 
 
 LXV. 
 
 All Olive Colours from the Browneft to £[. een * nd 
 the brighteft, are only Greens rebated, or lour? 
 correfted with Walnut-tree, Yellow Wood 
 or Soot. 
 
 LXVI, I 
 
 Having fliewed the manner of preparing ?S°X 
 bage Grey, Wild Dove Grey, Slate Colour **<** **** I 
 Brown Bread Colour, Triftamk, Coleur *L» 4 ^ 
 Myfe or Claver Colour, Leaden Grey, grit 
 & Moron, Brown Grey and Twilight Grey 
 with Woad, Cochineal or Madder, and the' 
 Parts of Walnut-Tree* and fince the greateft 
 Part of the Colours compofed of three or 
 tour Simple Colours may be feveral ways 
 very well prepared with feveral forts of 
 Drugs, The Dyers ought to be left to their 
 liberty, to ufe and finifh their Dyes accor- 
 ding to their convenience and knowledge « 
 But it ought to belt riaiy prohibited that 
 the drugs of the flighteror lefTer Dyes be 
 ufed in the greater or good Dyes, and that 
 no ItufFs be Dyed with the lefTer Dye 
 which ought to be Dyed with the greater 
 and good Dye. 
 
 Obfervations on the fourth Part. 
 
 A S M^er Part treated of the practice 
 ' or Dying Simple Colours, and heigh. 
 
 fling 
 
iS8 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 fling the Dyes,fo this informs us of the pro- 
 duft of the mixtures of Simple Colours.* 
 xlvu. from the mixture of Blew and Cher 
 mes Berries Dyes, arifes a Purple, if the Blew 
 ground be very lights alfo according to Ma* 
 iters, the Cochineal and Tartar mixed with 
 Violet will produce the fame efieft. t 
 xlw. and §. xlvii. inform us that from the 
 mixture of Blew and Crimfon, all forts of 
 Greys are produced, if the Stuffs be a little 
 Allomed, but we ought to know that Allom 
 being an acid Salt, and Tartar a fort of Co- 
 agulated Vinegar, Crimfom and all Mt or 
 nice Colours are hereby inclined toward a 
 light bright Yellowifh Red, wherefore the 
 lefs of thefe ingredients is ufed, the blewer 
 and darker will the Dye be the fame may 
 fee laid of Grey Purples and Violets, but it 
 is to be oblerved that fome add the Brown 
 as a third in the mixture correfted withTur- 
 merick , §. xMx. we ought to be told that 
 Tauny is fometimes Dyed with Black tho 3 
 upon blew it is belt ; but in the following 
 ♦receipts you have both Ways tho 5 the latter 
 is thebeft. 
 
 To Dye Tawny, 
 
 F)ye the Stuffs firft Madder Red, then take 
 the Fire Colour Dye, and put in one 
 part Black therein, and let them heat again* 
 then Work the Stuffs in it fo long till it is 
 light or dark according to your defire. 
 
 A- 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 Another way to Dye Tawny. 
 
 T E l th f. S , tu f s firl t °e Dyed a light Blew 
 JL' lor light Tawny, and dark Blew for 
 
 £Sr 7 ' the a n ^ in S AUom'd cool'd and 
 ctand they muft be rinced through Mad- 
 
 The Author in §. bml direas to make 
 Phi lemort and Hair Colours by £ 
 Yellow and Walnut-tree brown JnZ thl 
 vf.° r ^fin*. Colour is produced with 
 Yellow and Black, as well as by reheaS 
 
 M^r,^ CoIour in Madder Suds 
 or in Brafil Wood, and tis alfo to be ob£ 
 
 ved that m §. h. 'tis hinted that the fame 
 Colour may be produced feveral Ways tho* 
 fomeare better, more lalting and beaSJS 
 than the other, and that the 5 experienced Ar! 
 t ftought to determine which is beft. Alfoin 
 h,s t he treats of of the ufe of the remain? 
 ng Suds as in >*J.the Workman may ufe that 
 
 otheh,ghteningthefameCoIours,orthrow- 
 mg out others, or attempting new ones ac- 
 cording to Difcretion. To conclude ou?o£ 
 fcrvations on this chapter, 'tis proper t o 
 Mt that all mixtures of Dyes look be? 
 er upon the Stuffs than in the CoS r , aS 
 hat a Colour is very much fett oFby fi£ 
 ture with others. §. Mi. The Authof hints 
 I } M M\*<* exceeding 2 o d. the BlS 
 Dyed m Madder Suds, in the Great D^ 
 and then the Black Dyer tinges it whh & 
 
 *■ PART V*. 
 
 ,1 
 
 iB» 
 
 ~-3 
 
 
i5><* 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 The Art 
 Ought to be 
 divided into 
 two parts. 
 
 the Dyers 
 bfthe 
 greater Dye 
 tough t to be- 
 gin all 
 and blacks 
 the lefler 
 Dyers finifh 
 •hem. 
 
 PART V. 
 
 The DivlJioH of the whole body of Dyers into 
 two parts^ viz. thofe who Dye the greater, 
 and thofe who Dye the leffer Dyes h with the 
 Reafonsoftbis Divijion : The Colours and 
 Stiffs which flmid he lawful for fitch to 
 Dye^ their Jpprentifage^ Service with Ma- 
 fiers, and Mafler pieces which eveiy one 
 ought to be obliged to produce. 
 
 LXVII. 
 
 Tis fb neceffary to divide the Aft 
 of Dying into two parts viz. the great 
 or good Dye, and the lefler and flight, 
 and to eltablifh a Law that the Dyers of 
 the great Dye, fhould not have it in theft 
 power to -ufe or keep in their Houfes, 
 Indian Wood -or Orfeile, nor to finifh the 
 Blacks they begin, any fnore than the Dy- 
 ers of lefler Dyes fhould be permitted to 
 Gall or Black them v without a ground of 
 Woad alone^ or Woad and Madder 5 or hay- 
 ing liberty to ufe Indian Wood and Orfeik 
 for the diminifhing all forts of blacks, and 
 for grey's, and Walnut browns, in Stuffs 
 not exceeding 20 pence the Ell, and thofe 
 defign'd for linings not exceeding 30 pence 
 the Ell, fhould be allowed to ufe them in 
 of Stuffs higher price h that the Omiffion of 
 fuch adirifion would render it impoffible to 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 * attire at the perfection of Dying, or to haYe 
 the greateft part of the Colours without fal- 
 fihcation, either by the want of the neceflary 
 ground or the ufe of Orfeile or Indian Wood 
 in ftufFes and in Dyes, wherein thefe Co- 
 lours can baftardife the Dye. It being not 
 fufficient only to forbid baftard Dyes, but 
 to retrench the Dyers from .having fo much 
 as the Power or opportunity to baftardiie 
 them. 
 
 10 
 
 irred i 
 
 t 
 
 LXIII. 
 
 'Tis impoffible to give the laft perfeffl- 
 on to black Dyes, without Indian Wood Necefltycf 
 especially in Wools for mixture, or render' &%?* 
 the price of Dying flight fluffs and coarfe P a ™ 
 Wools, reafonable, without ufing it in the 
 the room of Woad, Madder or Cochineal 
 grounds 5 nor can the flighter fluffs afford 
 even Indian and Orfeile in Grey^s and Wal- 
 nut Colours, fo that if the fame Dyerfhould 
 - E! b( ? t 1 h 1 fort ^ or the Art being parted 
 it inould be permitted for the Dyer of the 
 great Dy^ to finifli what he had begun 
 tis not impoffible but the Dyers might 
 have an Opportunity to falfify the Blews 
 with Indian Wood and Orfeile, or to ufe 
 them in grey's or Walnut tree Colours in 
 Stuffs of value, which will by this means 
 be deprived of their necefTary good ground . 
 or which is worfe they wil! && & 
 Wacks, as tis very eafy for them to do, with 
 -^aiis, bumach, and Coperas, without ever 
 
 giving 
 
colours. 
 
 £$fr The Art of fiyingl 
 
 giving it the Woad, or Madder ground 
 which is absolutely neceflary to produce 
 a good Dye* 
 
 JLA.1.A.. 
 
 to hinder There is no better way to hinder the fal- 
 Szing S fification of Dyes, than after the Dyer of 
 the good Dye hath given Stuffs the necef- 
 iary ground of Woad, Madder and Cochi- 
 neal, to oblige the Dyer of the lefler Dye 
 to tinge them with the feveral parts of Wal- 
 nut S. A. tree Gall them, tinge them to black 
 and brown or grey, it being no lefs necefla- 
 ry to fort the colours according to the de- 
 fired mixture, than to give the ftuff a 
 fine and beautiful Dye, neither of which 
 can without great difficulty be done, if the 
 Dye is begun^purfued and ended by one Dy- 
 er. We need not be jfo very ftr£ft in the 
 Dyes which fhould pais from the Dyers of 
 the greater to the Dyers of the leffer dye, 
 the black only excepted, which is the moft 
 important, and wants to be forted to no 
 mixture,but is liableto the moft frauds,which 
 are moft difficult to difcover, for the falfi- 
 fication of other Colours being more vifi- 
 ble may be eafiei* difcovered and preven- 
 ted by leaden Marks and Seals &c. 
 which ought ftri&ly to be oblerved * of 
 which more afterward. 
 
 ax 
 
 
Idet 
 
 t0 ProdlJ 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 LXX. 
 
 193 
 
 *fefo( 
 
 :he Dyei ( 
 s the nee? 
 
 and Coci 
 lefler ft 
 atstffl. 
 
 3tfft> 
 
 j6 need 
 to tliei 
 .e fluff 
 of wS 
 ione,ift 
 bjroiri) 
 
 leDfflsof 
 ldfelfl 
 
 istlieil 
 ted to I 
 iuds,tf 
 
 
 f 
 
 moie 
 
 :d P^ 
 Seals * 
 
 enw 
 
 0* 
 
 DvtV £ ? S -° n t^ 111 make more Rafter °^p% 
 
 tf SJfef f aI ? ^ Creafe the Number rhVoK 
 Pre i 25 I' f T r th 5 D ^of the lefler 
 
 SSndTnf Sf lged ^° look afe the 
 
 Hey alio ha™' a |W P „? r^'' Hke i 
 
 LXXI. 
 
 know T£ Stuft anJ ffl ^ «V S&S£ 
 what TV ;1 • J? ■ ■« . ^P lour s, and with tobcdyJI 
 
 'Jfelpun, and allli j„s of WooLw 
 
 Colours, 
 
 fcrs. 
 
194 The- Art of Dying. 
 
 lours, viz, all forts of good Blews, Reds 
 and Yellows, from the lighteftto the deep. 
 eft Dye, as well as all lorts of mixtures 
 of Colours which proceed from two 
 or three of thefe fimple Colours, Blew, 
 Red and Yellow, in the manner before 
 ipecified. 
 
 LXXIL 
 
 The Dyers of the great Dye may alfo 
 dye the Greys and Walnut Tree Dyes of 
 all Stuffes exceeding twenty Pence the HI, 
 and Stuffes for Linings exceeding thirty 
 pence the Ell, with the Woad, Madder 
 or Cochineal ground, in Dyes where it is 
 neceflary, as wild Dove, Grey, Slate Co- 
 lour, leaden Grey, brown Bread Colour 
 Triftamie, Coukur d'Alyce, Brown Grey 
 and the like-, and fof the Juftification of 
 themfelves, they ought to be obliged to 
 leave at each end of the piece of Stufta 
 little Rofe of every fort of Ground they 
 have given it in the dying it - y and if it be 
 a Colour begun and ended without any 
 precedent Ground , the Rofe or mark ought 
 to remain White/ 
 
 LXXIII. 
 
 The Dyers of the great Dye may alio 
 Woad and Madder all Stuffes of W 
 Prices, and only Woad the Stuffes of mil- 
 ling or lower Prices conformable to tn 
 CLXXV1II Article, and according to tg 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 Inftruaion, before the lefTer Dyers flwiiM U. 5 
 
 panned to Gall them or DyitiZtik. 
 
 LXXIF. 
 
 an%ts^^t^ a ^^^ 
 
 * fpun, s£^M^« to ajR^ 
 pence the Fli r ;- 1 ^ c ~ eain S twenty toi* i> y ?d 
 
 fna if; 7 ' • Llnnel1 Sruffe s not excee/ b y thc «» 
 mg thirty pence the EH • all fomSn D * e - 
 
 nut Tree and Grey D veS « n / ^ aI ' 
 Cinamon Colourf fiS/SS r C ,° loUr ' 
 Bread Colour, 3>^ Musk S &"? 
 cake Colours, Minim Brown or deen r '" 
 ny ; White Grey Pear! rl ep », Taw " 
 Grey, Beavor Grey Breda C^' ^° ufe 
 Grey, Wild Dove' Gre? &2 Y*T ater 
 Lead Grey, Bear-skin Grey fc^ "' 
 and other fuch like Colours' wMch ^7'- 
 . begun and ended without -.m, r 7^ be 
 or rebate of WoaT X J y Gr ° u <A Red 
 
 And you rrZ u4 ft^f ? Cocfli "^ • 
 
 Woad! MaffiofcoS n ^ f 7 ] dt ^ of 
 or Orfeille, for thbfe foS^*^ Wood 
 
 Stuffes, Wool] £% «T? k ° 7es and for 
 Price fet i„ this Ski? lch f xceed not the 
 
 LXXV. 
 Dy?L D S f ^* % ™y all* 
 
 2 cures 
 
i$6 
 
 Orfeille, & 
 the Violet 
 for courie 
 Stuftes. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 tures which are prepared with Orfeille 
 alone, without medling with mixtures 
 deeper than Velvet Colour, nor adding any 
 other Ingredients to produce the mixture 
 of Violet, Amarantus, Tawny, dry Role, 
 Surbrun t ot other the like, and withall they 
 are not permitted to leave any Role mark 
 upon the Stuftes. 
 
 LXXVI. 
 
 ■ 
 
 And becanie baftard Cochineal may hap- 
 pen to be very dear, and the good Dyers 
 may fometimes be without Flocks, and that 
 the Rebate or little tin&ure of Woad, 
 which the Dyers may give to Tawny, A- 
 marantus,or dry Rofe Colours, in. the Cop- 
 per,may not fufficiently encline to Red. To 
 ibrt this mixture, 'tis neceffary in this Cafe 
 that the leffer Dyers fliould finilh the Vio- 
 let Dyes in coarfe fpun Wool, ferving to 
 the making of Bergamo or coarfe Tape- 
 lines, or other low priced Stuffs, with Or- 
 feille, after the great Dyer hath given 
 them a fufficient Ground of Woad^ as well 
 as he might give aLufter to the Tawnies, 
 dry Role and Amarantus Colours, after 
 the great Dyer hath fufficiently Woaded 
 and Maddered them ^ to teftify which he 
 fhould be obliged to leave his Rofe Marks, 
 which the leffer Dyer fhould be obliged to 
 prelerve, as well as the Marks of Woading 
 in Violets, and in both Cafes both are to 
 add their oivn Mark, that the two Leads 
 may be a fatisfa&oryjuftification that the 
 
 Stuites 
 
The Art of Dying] 
 
 Stuffes have pafled thro' both Dyes, but 
 they ought to be forbid the ufe of Orfeille 
 m Wools for mixture of the fame Colours, 
 <* in Stuffes exceeding twenty or thirty 
 rence the Ell as above, or in any other Co- 
 lours of the Good Dye, but Violets, Taw 
 mes Amarantus, and other Colours of 
 tnefe two mixtures as in form above order'd. 
 
 LXXVII. 
 
 The Dyers of the lelTer Dye may alfo 
 Dye all forts of browning or repairing thro' 
 trie Dye in mixt Grey, or coarie Woolen 
 Manufaftures, and they may herein ufe for 
 browning Galls, Orfeille and Indian Wood 
 out they muft not augment the Dye there- 
 with above one fourth part, and for their 
 ratification therein, they muft leave a lit- 
 tle Rofe, of the fame Colour the Stuffes 
 were before, in the end of the piece h nor 
 ought they to brown or deepen the faid 
 place,that if they have more .augmented the 
 Dye than neceflaiy, it may be difcovered 
 by a little boiling of a Pattern taken from 
 thatRofe. The Dyers of the great Dye may 
 alio Dye browner, or repafs thro 5 the great 
 Uye but with the Baths of Cochineal and 
 Madder alone, without any mixture of 
 laying Ingredients, 
 
 Lxxvnr. 
 
 The Dyers of the lefTer Dve mav alfo 
 Dye all forts of Woollen ManufiKes of 
 
 3 what 
 
 197 
 
 m 
 
1^8 The Art of Dying. 
 
 what fineheis foever, after they have been 
 Woaded and Madder'd, or Woaded alone 
 (conformable to the 1 7 8 Ar cicle)by the great 
 Dyers, but they ought not to Gall or 
 black any Woollen Manufactures, without 
 either the Woad ground alone, or the 
 Woad and Madder ground, nor without 
 the Role and other Marks as before fpeci- 
 fied, and (hall afterwards be declared. 
 
 LXXIX. 
 
 The Dyers of the lelTer Dye may alfo 
 Dye and Re-dye all old CI oaths or worn 
 Stuffes, Black ot all forts. Walnut 
 Browns, Greys, Browns-, tho 5 if the Stuffes 
 are of Value and have not been much worn, 
 they are obliged to give them the ground 
 neceflary to the good Dye •, but for all other 
 Colours they, as well as new Stuffes for 
 Furniture and Houies, ought tp be dyed by 
 the great Dyers, with the fame ground as 
 other Stuffes, without their being obliged 
 to put their Mark, if they alone Dye, the 
 Colour it felf being fufficient indication 
 of its own Goodnefs. But in Black the 
 great Dyer, after haying given them the 
 necetfiry ground, is obliged tofet his Mark, 
 and cauie the lefler Dyer to finifh them, 
 and put his leaden Mark alfo juftby the 
 others, to the end that the owner of the 
 Stuffes may keep the Marks, in order to 
 have his Remedy againft the great Dyer, 
 to whom he intrutted his Stuff* in Cale 
 It be ill dyed j and he againft the letter 
 
one a- 
 
 The Art of Dying. ip^ 
 
 Dyer, if the Fault be in the Black which 
 he hath given it. 
 
 LXXX. 
 
 It is neceffary to prohibit both forts of Both forts 
 Dyers to encroach one upon the other, nor °*?J ers 
 
 2;* r> i r -r\ 1 ' i ought not to 
 
 i6 it proper for the great Dyers to keep the encroach 
 Drugs in their Houfes which are ufed in the $ t ° h n er or ~ 
 leffer Dyes, to Dye the lefTer Dyes or Gall 
 Stuffes, orfinifh the Blacks^any more than 
 it is reafonable that the leffer Dyers fhould 
 keep in their Houfes rhe Drugs of the grea- 
 ter Dye, or Qye any Stuffes or Colours 
 which belong to it, or finifh the Blacks, 
 unlefs they are Woaded, or Woaded and 
 Maddered by the great Dyers. It ought 
 here to be lawful for all Perfons who have 
 Stuffes under twenty pence the Ell , old 
 Cloaths or worn Stuftes,to fend them to the 
 great Dyer to have the Ground of the good 
 Dy^ but if they wou'd have them dyed 
 Black or Re-dyed, they ought to be finifh'd 
 Wholly by the leffer Dyer. 
 
 LXXXI. 
 
 'Tis neceffary to prohibit all Merchants 
 from giving Stuffes exceeding twenty pence 
 the Ell, or Lining Stuffes exceeding thirty 
 pence the Ell, which they have' bought 
 White, to the leffer Dyers to be dyed ♦, nor 
 ought they to be fuffered to fend 'any 
 Stuffes to be dyed Black withouc the ne- 
 ceffary Grounds of Woad, or Woad and 
 
 4 Mad- 
 
 Merchants 
 ought to be 
 forbidden 
 fending 
 their Good> 
 to the leilLr 
 Dyers which 
 ought to be 
 Dyed by the 
 greater. 
 
 I 
 
80© The Art of Dying. 
 
 Madder -they ought alio to be forbidden 
 to order their Manufactures to be dyed falfe 
 Colours, or holding any Correfpondence 
 with oraiTifting the Dyers to that end 
 or to caufe them to ufe any forbidden 
 Drugs. 
 
 ♦ 
 
 LXXXII. 
 
 3 Tis neceflary in Towns where there is 
 but one Dyer, that he fhould dye the grea- 
 ter as well as the leffer dye if he knows how-, 
 ftill obferving the Rules and Rofe marks, 
 and putting his leaden mark of the great 
 Dye and to Stuffs and Colours of the great 
 Dye,and his leaden mark of the leffer dye to 
 Stuffes and Colours of the leffer, and the 
 naarks of both where they have participa- 
 ted of both} but where he is not skilful 
 enough in his Art, he ought only to dye 
 the leffer Dye and ufe that mark only. 
 
 LXXXIIL 
 
 ^eceflarjr >^} s nece ffary in Towns where there is 
 
 to have one J . . ~ 
 
 of each fort only oneoi the greater Dyers, that a Idler 
 
 ev^ffowlDy^ ftotfd alfo be placed there, that one 
 
 may look after and be refponfible for the 
 
 other ^ otherwife no perfection in the Art 
 
 of great Dying is to be expected. 
 
 LXXXIV. 
 
 h%Tt- The Art of great and good Dye being 
 Mogoof Y er y difficul t to learn, requires a long p 
 ^ perknce to arrive at any perfection in it 5 
 
■■ 
 
 ■ki 
 
 gl$ 
 
 •u 
 
 The Art of Dying. $g§ 
 
 for which Reafon 'tis neceffary, that thofe 
 whoatadefigtfdforMaftetsink, ft* 3 be 
 at leaft fout Yeats Apprentices to a Matter 
 f A the great .Dye, and that before he be 
 adm.tted a Matter himfelf, he produce his 
 ^dentutcand Witnefs that he hath not onl? 
 
 workM £ time ° U i but that he aIfc « leaft 
 f k » /°^ r more Ye ats with him or fomi* 
 
 of SSr? l^ aft f "P iece or Vimen 
 ot ability, which if it be well peiforrn'd he 
 
 thSLat^e 3 ^^ 3 ^erDyerS 
 rne great JJye but if it rs not approv'd he 
 
 ought to befent back to leatn, for fo Jonl 
 
 tme as is neceffary to infbtm U / n th eff 
 things wherein he is deficient. 
 
 LXXXV. 
 
 aimcult and neceffary Part of Dying fo be- P iMe ° r 
 
 £ n' he fh ° p u S ht . to prepare the Madder- D '<- 
 d £? the Cnmfon Violet the Grpp„ 
 
 which S ft y ' Qr n W ° ad Md M^r bS; 
 
 1» ™ It ° Ur P yes > which '"s abfolute' 
 jy neceffary a Matter of the great nl 
 
 who SSSf Sj^ -hich ReS&e 
 WorS , b \ Ma ^ ers > ou S ht fltMes the 
 
 tob3 a i the C °PP er fo ? Si * Days) 
 to be obliged toDyea Piece of Stuff, Mad- 
 
 may 
 
Matters 
 Daughter. 
 
 The Art of Vying. 
 
 may in their turn expeft to become 
 Wardens, &c. of their Company, and their 
 Widows and Children are tp enjoy all the 
 Honours and Privileges of the Art of great 
 Dying, But the Sons of Mailers of the 
 great Dye, ought to be obliged to no more 
 than two Years Apprentifage, and to be a 
 Journeyman with their Father or feme other 
 Matter, for two Years more,andto be obli- 
 ged to perform, but two of the four Proof 
 Pieces, and have their Option of thofe 
 too, and to Work at the Copper hut three 
 Days : If a Journey-man Marrys a Matters 
 Daughter, he ought in right of his Marriage, 
 to enjoy the fame Privileges as a Dyers Son, 
 ftill taking it for granted that the Father 
 of the Son or Daughter has himfeli per- 
 form^ his proof piece, and not other wile. 
 
 LXXXVL 
 
 Apprentif- There being no proof or Matter piece e : 
 SSNSEf* ftablifhed for the letter Dyers, and it being 
 - 2 ™ necefTary that 'thofe who would be admit- 
 ted Matters, fhould be knowing and expe- 
 rienced in theit Art, 'tis neceffary for the 
 future that they fhould ferye an Apprentii- 
 age of four Years, continuing with a Mat- 
 er of the great and good or leffei .Dye, J 
 work journey work under a Matter ot g 
 leffer J Dye for three Years, .after rwfoj 
 being defirous to be admitted Matter ana 
 Member of the Company, they ought w 
 dye four pieces, vk. two of Q^thwijcn 
 
 pieces ne 
 «eflary to 
 the kfler 
 I>ye._ 
 
The Art of tying. 
 
 they ought to dye Black, one after the great 
 
 2 yer ™ S f? ded ir > and the other after he 
 has Woaded and Madder'd it, and to 
 Dye two pieces of Stages, not exceeding 
 the price of twenty pence the Ell, one 
 Beayor Grey, and the other brown Bread 
 
 SeatDve' u U h t -l ny , partidpation of the 
 peat Uye -, which done, and havine ta- 
 
 SSiff^"" 1 tegiftredin the Com- 
 
 Ses S r P/ erS ' and r ° enjoy all pl 
 vueges and Advantages of that Art ac 
 ought alio his Widow and Children The 
 yS, l^P " ^ °*T* two 
 two YeaKS^ 1° be iomne r M <* 
 
 Mafterf a ^ ,. heir I atl l e / s or foffle °ther 
 matters, and they fyould be obliged to 
 
 SSff ?5 P T Bl f k and a SfpleS 
 ol Stuff, and to have their Option- the Tour- 
 ney Men marrying their MaWs ffih 
 ters to enjoy the fame Advantage. S 
 
 lxxxvii. 
 
 JouSySen^fr if ^PP re «tices pf$S^ 
 juurney Men ol the great or letter rw Men spu - 
 
 en C S d £ ^™f 'obb>d Slvlaf itf '*? 
 crs, tjiat they be for ever incapable of be the,v &*- 
 
 ffi ln the re S lfter of the Company ° WnProfit 
 that rhl T US tQ u P° n aI1 Occ ^ons , and 
 not Dve ; J p P rentices or ^^ney Men do 
 not uye in their own or Matter's Houfo 
 
 i-XXXTCII. 
 
 Q 3 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 ■ 
 
/ 
 
 204 ?b e Art of Dying, 
 
 Mafter Dy- 
 er, alone 
 permitted 
 to Dye, ex- 
 cept Hatters 
 their Hats 
 and Clothi- 
 ers their 
 Wools for 
 mixture of 
 Walnut tree 
 Colours. 
 
 LXXXVIIL 
 
 5 Tis alio neceffary that all Perfons what. 
 foever, befides Mafter Dyers, fhould ftrift- 
 ly be forbidden the Dying or Re-dying all 
 lorts of Woollen Manufactures whatfoever 5 
 except Hat makers which may dye their 
 ownHats,and Clothiers their Wool for mix- 
 ture, with the feveral parts of Walnut Tree 
 only, being forbid to keep Galls,Coperas or 
 other dying Ingredients in their Houfes, or 
 dye any other Wools for mixture, or any 
 StufFes at all. 
 
 p a rt. vi. 
 
 The Art of tin manner of Dying Wools, For- 
 fiead, or Cruels for Tapijlry and fuch Be 
 Work wrought on Canvas, the manner of 
 reducing the Roven or other like Z)p to 
 the great or lefer Dye, with a Difcriptton 
 and difcourfc of the neceffity of Lead Marks 
 and Rofe Jtfarh, to hinder the degradation 
 of the Stiffes andthe falff cation of Dyes. 
 
 LXXXIX. 
 
 oftheDy-inpHe Wool, Cruels, &c ufed in the tf- 
 S&3£ U X neft lufter'd Tapiftries, andin needie 
 ties and Tapiftries wrought on Canvas, ought to dc 
 S? dyed with the good Dye in the fame man- 
 Tcl^-ner as Stuffes, thf perfeftion^ of dying 
 
■■B 
 
 The Art of Dyingl 
 
 them, confifting as well in the proper mix- 
 ture of the Dyes, and preventing the feltins 
 and tangling of the Cruels, &e. as in the 
 beauty and goodnefs of the Dyes, and it 
 hemg va y difficult, if not impoffible, to 
 
 £ X P/- S t0 ^ m!xture s, or to hin- 
 der the felting and entangling the Wools if 
 
 they pafs through two feveral Dyers 
 
 20§ 
 
 XG 
 
 «rll iS r ^forc neceffary that the Dvers D r«»of 
 ofthofefortsofWoolls, Cruels, Worffead ? ue ^°< 
 &c. fhould Dye both the greater and X "St^ 
 
 Colourf^ K 6 ? d , that their ffl«turS of S E M 
 Colours may be the better forted,theyousht?r sthan - 
 
 wood ri$t-S* bidd f the ^ rfSC** 
 
 Wood orOrftdle, or th« dying of any forts 
 of Manufaftures, or any Wool, Cruel 
 Wn^ U wH 15 ^"'' 1 ^ *efe endstft 
 Woo , Worftead ©V. ufed in the making 
 of &iy«ww a, the coarfe T }ft «"« 
 
 *# in the faid Bergamos. 
 
 XCI. 
 
 The Dyers of Wools, Worffer? /v 
 
 3t 
 
 I 
 
6**T 
 
 206 The Art of Dying. 
 
 at the greater or leffer Dyers^ and f ort 
 their mixtures themfelves, paying the Dv ef 
 as they can agree with him Without his l 
 ing refponfible for the goodndS of the Lye 
 or fortingof the mixtures, which ought to 
 be govern'd by the Tapiftry Cruel Dyers 
 according to the Rules and Penalties which 
 they are liable to. 
 
 xcri. 
 
 Sirs :Lv The Ta P ift ty Py«s may alfo (where 
 a iib d ye J there are no other Dyers) dye all forts of 
 
 whe re there Wo °* anc * Woollen Manufaaures,oMervii)g 
 Jrenoithcr the Role and Lead Marks according to the 
 dyers. Rules mention'd-, but that they may not 
 abufe this Liberty, the Comtniffaries and 
 Judges of the Police ought to be enjoyned 
 to enquire whether the Tapiftry Dyer 
 makes or dyes Stuffes enough to employ a 
 dyer $ and if there are a fufficient quantity 
 of Mafters or Joufney Men fit to be Ma- 
 ilers $ and to order the moft intelligent in 
 the mixture of dyes fot Cruel, Worftead; 
 fff. for Tapiftry to that Work, and the 
 moft knowing in the great or leffer dye to 
 that work, according to the Capacities 
 or number of Mafters to be found, or 
 which they pleafe to appoint in theft 
 places; 
 
 XCIIL 
 
 The Corporation of Dyers ztRovan ha- 
 ving been always divided into three dine- 
 
 * rent 
 
■■ 
 
 
 The Art of Dying. £57 
 
 rent fun&ions, viz. in Woaders, Madderers AR *« Art 
 and Blackers or dyers of black, each o&Bfi&f 
 Which is intirely ignorant of the others rrian^ Woad «", 
 per of Dying, it is to be fear'd if they werciSSS? 
 in a hurry obliged to fubmit to the preient crs * 
 Rule, that not knowing how to prepare the 
 dyes which might be demanded of them , 
 the Art of Dying and Commerce might re- 
 ceive a very great damage thereby. 
 
 XCIV. 
 
 To avoid which Inconvenience it 
 would be neceflary to let thofe which are . . 
 already fit up, continue in their old way, b& L* 
 provided they obferve the Rules of this theiroli 
 Inftru&ion, as well for thegood Colours as **** 
 theRofeof lead Marks, becauie'the due ob- 
 fervance thereof will prevent any inconveni- 
 encies, the Madderei* being obliged to an- 
 fwer for the Woaders Dye as the blacker is 
 to anfwer for the dyes of both the c* 
 ther. 
 
 xcv. 
 
 But to the end that this Cuftom may by or rcdaccd 
 degrees wear out, without any prejudice intothe , , 
 to the Art of good Dying, and thVanu!^^ 
 miormity may be eftablifhed throughout Partflerfh * 
 the Realm, a Matter Woaderand a Mail- 
 er Madderer, if they pleafe, fhouldfo en- 
 ter into Partnerftip in the fame Houfe, to 
 
 Krfr m A y ^ e greate i ^ e > as prefcribed 
 m this Inftruftion 5 and after hav&g f con- 
 
 tinued 
 
 I 
 
Vo8 The Art of Dyingi 
 
 Sf" m % f PaCe t £ f0Ur Years > they 
 ihould a fobe at Liberty to feparate, and 
 
 each of them to fet up for the great Dye 
 
 and to enjoy themfelves, their Widows 
 
 and Children, the Benefits and Advantages 
 
 of Mafters thereof, or return to the for- 
 
 . mer profeflion at Pleafure, but fhould be 
 
 obliged to declare before the Judges of 
 
 Manufactures, which they choofe. 
 
 XCVI. 
 
 Tho 5 if at prefent any Matter Madderers 
 are able to Woad, or Woaders able to 
 Madder, it would not be in the leaft incon- 
 venient to accelerate the uniformity by ad- 
 mitting them Mafters of the greater Dye, 
 and prefent them with all its Privilege 
 and Advantages without their being obliged 
 to enter into Partnerfhips-,but they ought to 
 be very well examined before the Judges of 
 Manufactures, to the end that this infufficien- 
 cy may occafion no prejudice to the Art of 
 Dying or themfelves : And care ought alfo 
 to be taken that no Woader be admitted 
 without admitting aMadderer, at the lame 
 time, to prevent the Woaders being more 
 able to Madder and Cochineal, than the 
 Madderers would be to Woad, and confe- 
 quently drawing all their work from them. 
 The fame care ought to be taken of Wi- 
 dows. 
 
 xcva 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 2Q9 
 
 XCVIL 
 
 For the Matter Slackers of Roven, have- 
 ing verfed rhemfelves in the ieffer Dy^ 
 'twould be very eaiy for them to exercife 
 it as prefcribeJ m this Jnftruftion, becaufe 
 there is very little difference betwixt the 
 one and the other* 
 
 XCVIII. 
 
 If it is found iieceflary to permit any o* 
 ther Cuftom to continue as it is, for the 
 good of the refpeftive Towns where it is 
 m ufe, or to comply with the weaknefs of 
 the Matter, and tend to the Advantage of 
 the Provinces where it is, it ought as much 
 •as is pofhble to be fquared according to the 
 model of this inftru&ion, in the great or 
 Ieffer Dye, to bring the Dyers into the 
 belt way, by the fofteft methods. 
 
 XCLX; 
 
 To avoid the Mifchiefs which may ante The mi 
 
 Y i a " Un( ^ r ttanding betwixt the greater ?£ r ™« 
 
 and Ieffer Dyer, and bfetwixt the latter, SKi 
 
 and the Merchant, to fall the ?nce of g°&3j 
 
 -^ying, by putting them to the ieffer Dver tinging 
 
 * f n te , Wiig grounded by the £& 
 greater Dyer ; the Ieffer Dyer ought to be b * c 
 abfolutely reilrained from receiving any 
 Muffs above 2c Pence the E1L or Lining 
 Stuffs above Thirty Pence the flj or anf 
 
 to 
 
21 o The Art of Dying, 
 
 to Dye Black, without the great Dyer hath 
 given them the neceflary Ground, or with- 
 out his Role and Lead Mark at one, or at 
 both endi 'if* the Piece be double, 
 
 C 
 
 Every Dyer The Lead or -Mark of eve ,:y Dyer is fo 
 SSuSk- c neceflary to be put at the end of every 
 . Piece of Stuff, that it is the only way to 
 good d/^ dcteft any feud in the Dye, and the g lty 
 Perfbn,in order to bring him to c 
 Punifhment \ But to the end that the Leaden 
 Marks may be clearly diftinguifhable, m 
 at firlt fight difcover whether the Stuffs s 
 Dyed by the greater or' leffer Dyer, or by 
 both h 'tis neceffary that every greater Dyer 
 fhoud have a little Anvil engraven round 
 with the Name of the Place, and in the 
 middle the Words BON TEINT I «. 
 good Dye, in Capital Letters arid a Stamp 
 with his Name Graven on it in Capitals 
 alfo, fo that (hiking the Lead < with the 
 Stamp upon the Anvil he may imprint it 
 as above on both fides. 
 
 Mark of the 
 lefter Dye. 
 
 
 I 
 
 CI. 
 
 The leffer Dyer fliou'd alio have the 
 fame fort of Stamps and -Anyib with thj. 
 difference only, that in the Place of 3U* 
 TEINT^jok Dye fliou'd be engrave* 
 PET IT TEINT, leffer Dye, all in up 
 tals as the other. qi, 
 
TM Art of Vying, 
 
 2IJt 
 
 Htl 
 
 C1I. 
 
 Every-Dyer ought to be oblige "to put his m. 
 Leaden Mark at one end of every Piece of • 
 
 Z7. WhlC ' lw M^i and 'f the Piece be 
 double at Lotfeftds: if the Piece be Dved 
 r wth Dyes, each Dyer ought to put his 
 leaden Mark 5 the Mark of the leffer Dve 
 wing put next to but a little lower than 
 te. greater. 
 
 cm. 
 
 Stuffs which have paft the laff Hand of , a 
 the Dyer, either of the great or lefSr Dve &&«« 
 
 SSe 1£* k ¥*** the Merchant gSP' 
 J^! ve „ them ; , a . u S ht - to pafs the Views 
 of the court winch fhou'tf be appointed 
 for tks end, and there Vifited by &e Dra- 
 pers Oflicets in conjunaion with the Sworn 
 Dyer, who is to aflSft them , and if they 
 found to be well Dved and Rofe and Lead 
 Marked, theyfhouldbe Mark'd with rhe 
 
 other" y t0 3pprOTe Md confirm the 
 
 CIV. 
 
 Dv^d^ £?* °/ ? Stuff te *™nd Illsrfiu 
 uyed or wrong Rofe orLeadlMmkM „^ D > eJof 
 enly the Stuffald Dyer ftSS3 = 
 
 Ho ^ , Seized ifi 
 
 nned the court 
 
2 1 2 The Art of Vying. 
 
 fined, but the Pofleflbr of it, whether the 
 lefler Dyer, for finifhing it without the 
 neceflary ground, or the Merchants for re- 
 ceiving it, or fending it to the Shearer ot 
 Callender without the Mark of the Court, 
 nay even theCallender, ought to be fined for 
 receiving it, 
 
 CV. 
 
 Tfce Mark j\ n( j t hat the Marks may be the better 
 alter tL put known, they fliould not be put upon the 
 **«* Stuffs till after they have rect ^elaft 
 Hand of each Dyer, firft of the great I 
 for Black, when they are delivered to the 
 lefler Dyer-, and when the leffer Dyer hath 
 finiflied them he is to deliver them to the 
 Court to pafs fearch, arid be Marked * and 
 if the Marks are not Sufficiently clear, they 
 may be Stamp t again to render them 
 plainer* 
 
 CV1. 
 
 rfc«sei«d And to prevent any Perlons flipping » 
 T k, other Piece in the Place of that, which « 
 S&^gSdj the Officers of the DwgfJ 
 teW Sworn Dyer, and others, as well Mag 
 as Dyers belonging -to tk |gg, fig 
 be empowered to athx their Mar*, w 
 with tf ax or Lead and to draw up J. , 
 diitment immediately m^er t°la?« * 
 fore the Judges of Manufaftures, whetf 
 a more ample Verification,^ wellthem 
 tlon'd Officers of theDrapeneas the*** 
 
» 
 
 The Art of Vying. 213 
 
 ki layers, and the defendant ought to be pre- 
 fent or duely fummoned to give Cmsfaftion 
 to the Judges, that the piece is the fame, 
 and to Examine the boiling or Dye, whe- 
 ther it be duely prepared with the necefla- 
 ry Drugs. 
 
 cm 
 
 And to break all the Meafures which **««"•» 
 (hall be taken for the baftardizing of good mtlt 
 ■L>yes, J tis neceflary to en joy n all Dyers of the 'S* 11 l) >' es 
 good Dye -upon forfeiture of thePrice of theii er %'?"■ 
 Dye given to the Stuffs, to leave one or two 
 little Rofe Marks at each end of the piece 
 one of the Blew and the other of the Mad- 
 der Red which they have given to the 
 btufts? And the lefler Dyer fhould be obliged 
 to leave another Rofe mark in the middle 
 or at the other tide of each endof the Role 
 if there be but one to juitify its Colour 
 before it was Galled and* Blacked. 
 
 CVIII. 
 
 The great Dyers ought to be obliged to 
 do the lame in all Dyes, which they fin if h 
 rhemfelves without the affiffance of the 
 Idler Dye,leaving little Rofes or Rofe Marks 
 viz in Greens, one of the Yellow, and an- 
 other of the Blew, in which they have Dved 
 n h m PhUamarts one of Yellow, and 'the 
 other of Brown in Crim fens, one of the 
 Blew, and the other of the Cochineal Red 
 ?n Tawnyes or Aimram^ one bFmk 2nd 
 
 • 3 a no-. 
 
 
214 The An of Dying. 
 
 another of Madder, or the half Crimfon 
 Dyes, with which they have tinged it- 
 and 15 of the reft. ' 
 
 GIX. 
 
 ffl As 'tis neceffary to leave little R f es 
 Marks of or Role Marks of every Dve us'd in 
 
 goodPying. all Stuffs which ]mt rccdved a C 5 Qm _ 
 
 pound Dye, 'tis alfo neceffary to leave a 
 little White Rofe in all fimple D\ es, as 
 Blew, Red, Yellow, as well as in Browns 
 arid Greys in Stuffs exceeding xx f Pence 
 the Ell, and Lining Stuffs exceeding xxx. 
 Pence the E11-, becaufe thefe Stuffs ought, 
 befldes the Leaden Mark of the Dyer, to 
 have the little Rofe or Role Marks which 
 fhould be the general Mark of good Dying, 
 whether it hath been Dyed by one or both 
 Dyers according to the difference of the 
 Myfteries of great or leffer Dying. 
 
 CX. 
 
 stuffs with- As the little Roles at one or both ends of 
 
 out Rotes a the Stuffs, ought to be the general Marks 
 
 £? of good or great Dying, the wantof them 
 
 in a Dyed Stuff ought to be an infallible 
 
 Sign of the leffer Dye^ wherefore it b 
 
 icceffarv Ihittly to-forbid all Dyers of the 
 
 leffer Dye, to leave any Role Marks in 
 
 their Grevs Walnut-tree Dyes, in low 
 
 Prized Stuffs., nor in any Stuffs or Colours 
 
 which, they begin, and finifh. -without. par- 
 
 tu njcion of the good Dye, exeept in their 
 
 grown- 
 
t 
 
 tl Wi 
 
 
 The Art of Dying. 215 
 
 Browning alone to juftifie what Colour the 
 Stuff was before, and the augmentation of 
 Dye they have given it, to the., end that 
 the Publick may not be cheated',- and \ny 
 be inform tl, by the fole inipeftion or the 
 Marks and iloibs^ of the difference betwixt 
 the great and lefler Dye. 
 
 CXI. 
 
 The Dyers of the leffer Dye ought never- Thelefl ^ h 
 thelefs to be enjoy nd to preferve the Role wp$m 
 Marks which the great Dyers fhaM leave ; ! \ e h f rLs 
 upon Stuffs, in the fame. Colours, in their g^erDye. 
 participation, of both the Dyes, and leave 
 another in the Colour the Stuff was before 
 it was Galled, Black'd, or Orfeil% as is be- 
 fore Specified in this infttuftion 5 to the 
 end that the Publick may know by the 
 Rofes and the two Marks, the Colours 
 which the two Dyes have given it. 
 
 CXIL 
 
 But as there be fome Meichants or Dyers Sterns 
 who may be Ignorant, or at lealt pretend JSgfaS? 
 
 .to be io, of the grounds of Woad matter or Ha!ls or 
 Cochineal neceffary to a good Dye, and by ** 
 this means find an excufe for retrenching a 
 rart of the Dye, 'tis neceffary that befides 16 
 Patterns of Colours mentioned in the Fourth 
 Article of the Rule, others fhould be alio 
 Dyed, which ifiou'd ferve as Patterns for 
 all iorts of grounds, the one half whereof 
 .to remain in the Court of Draper, and the 
 
 ? 4 other 
 
 
/ 
 
 2l6 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Other m the Court of the Dyers of the 
 good Dye, as well to have recourfe to in 
 the fearch, whether the grounds given be 
 conformable to thefe Patterns, as to com* 
 pare them with the Role Ivlarks, or that 
 they may be enabled to lend a Pattern to 
 all the Dyers, to regulate themfelves in the 
 lame ground, or to put into the boiling to- 
 gether with the Patterns of the ground, 
 which you wou d juftify, or wlu'ch you 
 would examine' the falfhood of. 
 
 Here the German Author makes his Amo* 
 tations* on the Fifth and Sixth Booh, but 
 they conjifling only of repetitions of the Lm 
 of Dying abovementioned, and fearing tkt 
 the. 'Englifi Reader may he tired, I rather 
 chofe, to omit them, than trefpafs father upon 
 tfis Patience. 
 
 PART VII. 
 
 Drugs which may he it fed in all forts of Dp, 
 
 as .veil by the greater as leffer Dyers j M 
 
 what ought to beforbiden, with the necej- 
 
 fty of Journals and fetching the W 
 
 Houfes. 
 
 CXIII, 
 
 TO the end th# no Perfon may be Ig- 
 1 norant of the Drugs which are allow- 
 ed, and which are forbidden particularly tf 
 
 t *-•; '• ■ ' • ' ' - , {III 
 
w 
 
 The Art of Dying. zij 
 
 the greater or leffer Dye, or m common to 
 both, they ought to be infornfd, 
 
 ■CXIV. 
 
 That the Drugs which in themfelves af- Notifying 
 tord no Colour but are ufed to difpofe the in g redi * nts 
 Stuffs toattraft the Colour of the Dying L>" eg0<xI 
 ingredients, or to render the Colour more 
 Beautiful and certain, ought all to be al- 
 lowed to the Dyer of the great Dye only 
 becaufe the ufe of them cannot be injurious 
 to Colours of the great Dye, but in the 
 idler t>ye they have a clean contrary effeft 
 and ferve only to fpoil the Dye. 
 
 cxv. 
 
 As Dyers of the great Dye may feverallr 
 ule different Non-Dying ingredients to pro. 
 duce the fame efTeft, one choofing one war 
 and another a different •, fo they ought to be 
 allowed to keep m their Houfes all mate- 
 rials of this Nature ufeful in Dying, ^nd 
 to life them which way they think necef 
 
 CXVI. 
 
 Non-dying Drugs in the good Dye, are ***** 
 
 mc the Gold-fmiths ufe, Salt-peter, Nitre w 
 ^al-Gemmx, Sal-Armoniac, Common Salt' 
 fe? s Sak > &k or Chriftai of Tarta ; 
 Agaric, Spirit of Wine, Urine, Tin, Bran, 
 
 Peafe 
 
 I 
 
2lS The Art of Dying. 
 
 Peafe and Wheat flotoer,Starch,Lime, com- 
 mon Alhes, Pot-Afttes and Tartar Allies. 
 
 CXVII, 
 
 Pying in' 
 
 gredientsof The Dying Drugs which- ought to he 
 Py e f 00 ufed by great Dyers only, are Anragceu & 
 Albigoh Woad, flight Woad, Indigo, Co- 
 chineal, Mejleque &f Pefqualk or the right 
 befl: lort For high prized Stuffs, and Wild 
 or Baftard Cochineal for flight Stu its, and 
 Wools for mixtures, Madder, Bourre or 
 Goats Hair, Turmerick, Smmjh Broom, 
 Sarrette^ Gemftrolle and Soot, for Phillamorts, 
 Hair Colours and Olives only. 
 
 CXV1II. 
 
 o^httobc/ 1 The Leffer Dyers ought to be reftrainei 
 from keeping .in their Houfes, Shops, or 
 Ware-houies,any of the laid Ingredients,and 
 not permitted to ufe any of them. Spanifi^ 
 Browri only excepted in the foitning of 
 'Blacks, 4M the rebates of Greys. 
 
 CXIX. 
 
 Torbiden in 
 the iefler 
 Dye* 
 
 j'ngreaieats 
 *ommon to 
 
 The Drugs which ought to be common 
 i>oth By«s. t0 t j ie Dyers of the greater and leffer Dyes, 
 are th6fe which afford ¥# little Colour, 
 or elfe tmge ! Brown- as the Root, ^ Bark, 
 Leaves of the Walnut-tree, and the Nut- 
 ifels * and &arouiUe, Galls/ Sumach, Ro- 
 vloiil and Coperas : but the great Dyers 
 
 •ought t^ be allowed- but tery.fm&\ q uantl " 
 
 9! * ties 
 
The Art of Dying* . 2 1 £ 
 
 tics of the latter four Ingredients, and on- 
 ly as much as may be neceffary for; a light 
 Browning, which it is. allowable for them 
 to give to Dyes, in which 'tis difficult to fort 
 their mixtures without an Allowance to di- 
 minifh their neceffary Ground which ought 
 always to be as ftrongas their Patterns. 
 
 cxx. 
 
 Befides the Ingredients allowed in com- $?Eui£ 
 mon to both Dyes, the leffer Dyers may b y e » 
 have and ufe in the leffer Dye, Orfeiile, 
 Indian Wood and Verdigreafe, according to 
 this Initruaion-, but thefe ought abfolutely 
 to be forbidden the great Dyers, to ufe or 
 keep them in their Houfes, Shops or Ware- 
 houfes. 
 
 I 
 
 CXXI. 
 
 The:Drugs which ought to be abfolutely Dru ? s *"° i - 
 forbidden, to both forts of Dyers as well ofSSrf a * 
 the greater, as leffer Dye, are Brafil Wood < Wo £ d arH * 
 Kocourt, Ballard Saffron, Tumfole, Ancbufk 
 or Gromel, filings of Iron or Copper, Cut- 
 lers and other Grinders dull, Rodoul and 
 Sumach, which have been ufed in the Dying 
 Turky or other Leathers, becaufe all thefe 
 baitardize the Colour, harden the Wools 
 and fpoil the Stuff, Fuftel, Yellow-wood 
 lrentenel^ Malberbe, and Alder Bark ought 
 to be prohibited, except in thole Places 
 where Spamfi Broom, Sarette Genelholle 
 and the feveral Parts of Walnut-tree, Su- 
 mach, 
 
S20 The Art of Vying. 
 
 mack Fovic, Rodoul, are us'dvbut in the other 
 Places the ufe of them in Dying, ought to 
 be entirely forbiden. 
 
 CXXIL 
 
 oughftSe If the Dyers Books be well kept , and a 
 wen kept, faithful account be kept, as well of what 
 Drugs they buy, as the Goods they Dye 
 daily, and what Goods they fend to the Id- 
 ler Dyers, and what they deliver to the 
 Merchants, or thePerfon who is to deliver 
 them into the Hands of the Court, 'twould 
 occafion two great conveniences, for which 
 Realbn, the faid Books ought to be metho- 
 dized and paragraphed by the Judges of 
 Manufaftures. 
 
 CXXIII. 
 
 ■ 
 
 The firft advantage which would accrue 
 by the well keeping of the Dyers Books, 
 is that the great Dyers Booka would qua- 
 drate with the lefler Dyers Books, and both 
 with the Hall Regilter of every Town. 
 Which would prevent all good undemand- 
 ing, betwixt the Merchant and the Dyer 
 in the Trade of Baftard Dying, and the 
 &rmer's receiving his Goods without the 
 Hall Seal, or Verification, and prevent all 
 the Dyers Meafures for the ufe of telle 
 Drugs, or above Six Pound of Indigo to 
 every Bale of VVoad and one Pound, to 
 every Hundred weight of the flighter 
 
 S* CXXIV, 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 i%i 
 
 
 CXXIV. 
 
 And in the fecond Place it would effec- 
 tually remove all caufe of difpute, or Law 
 Suit betwixt the Merchants and the Dyers, 
 occafion'd by fraud or accounts III kept 
 on either fide ^ or when by the negli- 
 gence or difhonefty of the Servants , Factors 
 and others, any Goods are loft or fpoiled, 
 the true and juft right of either fide would 
 clearly appear by this method. 
 
 cxxv. 
 
 Befides thefe Precautions 'tis alfo nece£ The Dye- 
 iarjt, that the Officers of theDraperie and the Jj^tto bc 
 Sworn good Dyers, accompanied with lome reached 
 Merchants or Dyers of the Inqueft, fhould 
 every Week or at leaft every Fortnight, 
 fearch the Dye Houles of both lorts of 
 Dyers, to fee if their Drugs he good, and 
 their Stuffs well Dyed, whether they have 
 given them the due Ground, and finifhing 
 necefTary to the perfection of the Dye, and 
 if their Books are well kept as above fpe- 
 cified. 
 
 CXXVI. 
 
 3 Tis alfo necefTary that the Inqueft, sv^Dye* 
 mould keep a Regifter in due form, and &ej ifter - 
 enter therein the Number of Coppers of 
 both forts of Woad, which every Dyer 
 boils every Week, and the quantities of 
 
 both 
 
 ?/ 
 
222 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 both forts of Woad which he puts imo 
 every Copper, iowftnawy, times he reheats 
 them, and the quantity 6f Indigo which 
 he ufes in the good Copper, or in th6 re- 
 heating, that if any thing be committed fa. 
 regulkr, they may Secure and India the 
 Perfom before the Judges^ of Manufactures, 
 
 PART? 
 
 '; . ' ■ ! 
 
 
 
 Reafons why feme Drugs ought to be allowed 
 and others Prohibited^ and why feme ought 
 to be Prohibited in feme Dyes^ and alloml 
 in others^ with other Reafons ^offered k 
 jbtfwev to the obje&ions, which may fa 
 made againjl this InjlrnElion. 
 
 CXXVIL 
 
 Notour- T He l fe ° f ^ Non-Colouriflg ^Driigs, 
 ing Drugs ought to be allowed to the greater 
 
 io V £i l lf D) ?er s^ becaufe they only ferve to difpofe 
 
 Stuff, to receive the Dye, and to render it 
 
 more lafting and Beautiful, 
 
 CXXVIII. 
 
 There are three forts of Non-dying in- 
 gredients, which Beautify the Dye, and a 
 little alter the itrength of it As Cenfa 
 Gravelee, or Tartar Allies, which a little 
 flackens the Madder Dye, encfimng 
 it more to Red in the Copper. BnJ 
 
 grcii 
 
 Dyers. 
 
-^. 
 
 The Art of Dyrngi $23 
 
 which brightens the Dye-, and Aquafortis c her . mes ' 
 which eafily flattens the Lu Iter of Fire cS ni 
 or Nacarat, in Cochineal, by feveral little **<*• 
 Spots, which it eafily Imprints. Thefe 
 Drugs ought to be allowed, that we may 
 not be deprived of thofe two fine Colour*, 
 which cannot be made fo Beautiful and 
 bright without them. 
 
 CXXIX. 
 
 The two forts of Woad, Chermes Berries, Wnari r 
 Chermes Pafte Cochineal, Mefeque, TefquaUe A 
 Campeftam &Sylveftre£{a\T or ¥locks,Sarrette, JS£ c t r & £ 
 and Gettejlrclle ought all to be permitted to * ll ™ ed to 
 Dyers of the great and good Dye, becaufe&a hc 
 they all contribute to the preparing of good 
 Dye. 
 
 CXXX. 
 
 m Tho' Turmerick does not afford fo laft- Z%Jy. 
 mg a Yellow, as Spanifti Broom 5 yet it permitted, 
 ought to be allowed to the greater Dyers, ' 
 becaufe there is no other Ingredient more 
 proper to give a Nacarator Yellow, Orange 
 luflre, to Reds Dyed, with Chermes Berries 
 as the French Scarlate, as : well as with Co- 
 chineal, as Crimfbn, or Madder, as the Mad- 
 der Nacarat or Orange. Aaua-f6rtis will alfo 
 doe the farrie thing, but it fucceeds muck 
 ■the belt in Dutch Scarlate. 
 
 II* 
 
 cxxxl 
 
224 
 
 The Art of Dyfogl 
 
 CXXXI. 
 
 Sow hy IndI S° ou g ht alfo t0 te allowed becaufe 
 pcrmited. tho' it does not yield a good Colour if uf. 
 
 ed alone v yet it produces a goodDyeifufed 
 
 with Woad, as directed in Article 8, 9, ic. 
 
 and 11. of this inftru&ion • and farther 
 
 becaufe at prefent we are not over ftored 
 
 with Woad, and Indigo being one of the 
 
 Chains which fattens the Indian Trade to 
 
 France^ it ought to be ufed, 
 
 CXXXII, 
 
 Soot y eliding a Brown Dye of a naffy 
 fmell might be forbidden, becaufe of the ill 
 fcent, if it was not a prevention againft the 
 Worms, and more proper for Phillemorts 
 and Ox Colour, than Walnut-tree h when 
 it is ufed in Madderage with Turmerick. 
 
 CXXXM, 
 
 the lev.rai The Root,Bark,and Leaves of Walnut-tree 
 i>artsok-the and the ^ u t (hels, Galls, Sumach, Fcvicy- 
 tiee oaiis RodouL and Coperas, are all very good in- 
 ffftW?" gredients. Which ferve either/ to pre- 
 and cope- pare StufTes or Dye them, andpught to w 
 £rtU allowed in Common to both forts of Dy- 
 ers, becaufe both are allowed to Dyebrey, 
 and Walnut-tree-Dye^ the great Dyers, 
 in Stuffs exceeding 20 pence the W 
 and Lining Stuffs exceeding half a Crown 
 the Ell* and theleffer Dyers, in thofe una* 
 
■H 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 thofe Prices, wherefore 'tis neceffary to per- 
 mit them in common to both Dyers, to be 
 ufed according to the 119 Article of this 
 Inftru&ion, becaufe they cannot otherwise 
 fort or mix their Colours,. 
 
 . 
 
 2i$ 
 
 CXXXIV. 
 
 Garouille 
 
 producing a Colour 
 
 CarouiUe % 
 
 proper for Wools,for mixture in Rat Colour 
 the Wool being cleaned in the fulling Mill, 
 tis proper to ufe this Drug, becaufe it will 
 ferve to produce the Rat Greys in coarfe 
 as well as fine Wools h it ought to be allow- 
 ed in common to the greater or leflef Dyers 
 in the Wools for mixtures which they are 
 refpeftively permitted to Dye. 
 
 cxxxv. 
 
 ;. Th& Indian Wood ufed with Allom and 
 Tartar produces a falfeColour, yet ityields - Xpt 
 a good and lafting Dye if ufed with Galls mitte ^n 
 Sumach, Rodoue Fovic, Copqras and vd S3 i<3£ 
 aigreale h in Blacks where it is very good denino - 
 to foften the Blacks and Stuffs, and makes thers * 
 both wear better h 'tis proper to be ufed in 
 fcrey and Walnut-tree Dyes of Stuffs not 
 exceeding 20 Pence the Ell, and Linnen 
 Mutts not exceeding half a Crown the Ell 
 to render the price of Dying as eafy as pof- 
 nble h and becaufe the great Dyers may mi£ 
 ufe it in the falfification of Blew, or in Sub- 
 limiting it in the place of Woad, 'tis only 
 to be permitted to the leffer Dyers, who are 
 
 Q> not 
 
22^ The Art of Dying. 
 
 not allowed to Dye with Allom and Tattat 
 Aihes by which precautions the ill u fe 
 thereof will be prevented. 
 
 cxxxvr. 
 
 Shyand Orfeille producing a beautiful, tho 5 no 
 how aiiow'd lafting Dye, ought therefore to be allowed 
 to the leffer Dyers in the lighter Colours of 
 its mixture, which are difficult to be imita- 
 ted,and alfo to give a Luftre to Walnut-tree 
 Dyes ^ becaufe the leffer Dyers are not al- 
 lowed to Dye high priced Stuffs, and the 
 low priced Goods cannot go to the price of 
 aftrongDye. 
 
 CXXXVII. 
 
 Aider bark. Alder bark hath nothing ill in it^ and the 
 lole apprehenfion that it contributes to the 
 ufing of Smiths Dull in the Dye, hath oc- 
 cafioned its prohibition, but the Advantage 
 which occurs by the diminution of the 
 price of Black, Grey and Walnut-tree Dyes 
 in low priced Stuffs where it is very pro- 
 
 Eer,prevails over this fear, fo that after for- 
 idding the Smiths Duft, it entirely vanifh- 
 es i and it is proper to allow Alder bark to 
 the leffer Dyers only, and not to the great- 
 er Dyers, how neceffary foever it mar be, 
 which ought to be examin'd upon the Spot, 
 and thus far it ought to be forbidden. 
 
 CXXXVIIL 
 
— ^~. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 X 
 
 227 
 
 CXXXVIII. 
 
 Verdigreafe which ferves to tinge the verdig rea f« 
 beautiful Colours of Celadon Green and 
 Bnmftone Colour, and being ufeful uied in 
 fmall quantities and half hot wich Indian 
 Wood Blacks, ought not to be forbidden, 
 becaufe it is not only advantagious and can- 
 not .be injurious fif ufed according to this 
 Inltruchon; to the goodnefs or beauty of 
 Colours, but becaufe it affords its Dye with- 
 out the preparation of Allom and Tartar 
 and is proper in Blacks * it ought to be al- 
 lowed to the leiTer Dyers, whofe Bufinefs 
 it is to dye Black. 
 
 CXXXIX. 
 
 Trentanel ~ and Malherb being a J*"? 
 
 ittle injurous to the fight of thole who %& £ft*i 
 it, and their Dyes not being ib certain nr Yellow 
 Ming as ***■&# Iroom C f T e Wood - 
 -— — and Gomftrolle, nor the Colour of 
 **fldio lattmg as that of Spanifi Broom or 
 Walnut-tree yet it fervingto the heightning 
 
 rT^ir B rZ or P ak Orange^ which 
 Yellovv Wood alio doth, are the 8 Reafons 
 
 ^X ■" ingredients ate prohibited at 
 
 vliP nt ln J r he ^"g of Wool, except the 
 Yd ow Wood which is allowed 2 
 
 a 2 
 
 cxt, 
 
228 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 CXL. 
 
 S?of?ron Smiths of Cutlers Duft, and filings of 
 or copper " Iron or Copper which fenfibly fpoil 2nd 
 forbidden, harden the Stuffs, and flick in the Threads 
 and eat into them as well as the Worm, are 
 three Ingredients which are wholly impro- 
 per in Dying Wool, and ought to be abfo- 
 lutely forbidden as well as Turnfole, 
 
 CXLL 
 
 Gromel which affords a red brown incli- 
 ning to Tawny, whofeDye being neither fo 
 firie,fo good or fo cheap as Madder,and being 
 befidesa Foreign Drug,ought to beabfolute- 
 ly forbidden as an unprofitable Ingredi- 
 
 Gromel, 
 
 ent. 
 
 CXLII. 
 
 Rocourt. 
 
 Baftard or 
 Wild Sat- 
 froo. 
 
 The Rocourt Dye being dearer, and 
 not fo fine and lafting as that of Flocks j 
 ought to be abfolutely Prohibited, as well 
 becaufe 'tis a Forreign Drug, as, becaule 
 it lily fades in Wool, 
 
 CXLIIL 
 
 Baftafd Saffron being neither fo good 
 nor profitable in dying of Wools, which 
 receive the Dye of the Flocks much bet- 
 ter, ought alfo to be abfolutely forbidden, 
 that the Dyers may not amufe themfelves 
 

 m 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 by drawing a falfe Colour from a very dear 
 Drug. 
 
 22? 
 
 If 
 
 CXLIV. 
 
 Brafil ought to be intirely forbidden as Erafil Or- 
 well becaufe it is a Baftard Dye and a bld<kn * 
 Forreign Drug, which draws a great deal 
 pf Money out of our Country, as becaufe 
 it cannot be allowed to the greater Dyers, 
 without breaking all the Precautions taken 
 by this Inftru£tion, and openi ng a way to 
 Baftard Dyes h Nor can it be allowed to 
 theleffer Dyers, without the fame incon- 
 venience, and without allowing them at 
 the fame time Allom and Tartar, without 
 which they cannot ufe it, and it will alfo 
 give them an opportunity of Dying the 
 Baftard Colour of Indian Wood-, For all 
 which Reafons I think neceffary to repeat 
 it, that Brafil Wood ought to be abfolute- 
 ly forbidden, to both forts of Dyers. 
 
 €XLV. 
 
 OrfeiHe is allowed rather than BrafiL as 
 well becaufe it is ufed without Allom or ™ c hy ra ° t r h f 
 Tartar, as becaufe it is a Drug which permitted* 
 Grow's, and is prepared in France, and the th a n BrafiU 
 cheif Colours of its mixtures are very di£ 
 ficultto fupply otherwife ; but Brafil may 
 be eafily fupplied with Madder, Flocks or 
 Cochineal: befides, the Madder Red ,which 
 is a very good Colour, is not much dearer 
 than that of Brafil which is a Baftard Dye. 
 
 Q.3 CXLVL* 
 
23a 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 CXLVI- 
 
 ; All Drugs what foever which are not 
 
 exprefly allowed, ought to be fuppofed for- 
 bidden, tho 5 the Reafon of their prohibiti- 
 on be not here exprefs'd* 
 
 CXLVII. 
 
 belong 6 ^' an ^ Yellow ought to be left to the greater 
 the great Dyers,to Dye only without any participati- 
 on of the leffer Dy e,as well becaufe they have 
 a great deal of reciprocal relation, and re- 
 quire a large (hare of Knowledge and Ex- 
 perience to Fucceed in them,as becaufe of all 
 the Colours produced from their mixture 
 the poflibility of a Baftard one fliould be 
 prevented ; one good Colour grafted on a- 
 nother, tho' it yield a darker, yet it is a 
 more laffing one. * 
 
 CXLVIII. 
 
 The other two fimple Colours, viz. Brown 
 
 and Black ought to be left differently to both 
 
 The Brownt forts of Dvers. The Black having before 
 
 be d Dyed k£ ° received the Woad or Woadand Madder 
 
 b iff &th ly Grounds neceflary to the good Dye of the 
 
 DyerL greatDyer,and afterwards galled & blackned 
 
 hy the leffer Dye jxr deprive the great Dyers 
 
 of an opportunity of Dying Blacks without 
 
 the Woad or Madder Grounds,and filfifying 
 
 the Blew, which they might eafily do if they 
 
 were 
 
not 
 
 The Art of Vying. 
 
 were allowed to finifh the Blacks and to 
 ufe Indian Wood. 
 
 CXLIX. 
 
 23I 
 
 Andbecaufe fine Wools, and high pri-^ and 
 ced Stuffs, as well as courfe Wools and low 
 priced Stuffs, are dyed Brown and Grey, 
 which are mixtures of black, and that feveral 
 of thefe Greys and Browns require Woad, 
 Madder or Cochineal, to produce the good 
 D>e, and courfe Wool and flight Stuffs 
 cannot afford the price of thole Drugs : To 
 remedy which by lowering the price of Dy- 
 ing, Indian Wood and Orfeille 
 
 ought to be ufed : and for fear the greater 
 Dyers fhould mifufe them, 'tis neceflary to 
 allow the Brown and Greys to be differently- 
 Dyed by both' Dyers, viz. the great Dyers 
 to Dye the high priced Stuffs with the 
 ground or finifhing of Woad, Madder or 
 Cochineal in Colours where it is neceflary, 
 and the leffer Dyers the meaner Stuffs with 
 Indian Wood and Orfeille, to the end that 
 both may iort their Colours, and that the 
 good Dye may not have leave to ufe Indian 
 Wood or Orfeille in Greys or Walnut-tree 
 Dyes in fine Stuffs, nor to the Baftardizine 
 the Blew. 6 
 
 <u 
 
 cl; 
 
 ■ 
 
 
*3? 
 
 General 
 Iteafons, 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 CL. 
 
 After having giren the Reafons why fom e 
 Drugs are allowed and others forbidden, and 
 why Dying is divided into the great and lef- 
 fer Dye,it being yet neceflary to anfwer forne 
 Memoires, and thefe Anfwers ferving to 
 illuftrate and remove all difficulties from 
 things of this Nature, it is thought good 
 to include them in this Inftru&ion to the end 
 that every Perfbn may inform himfelf there- 
 of. 
 
 CLI. 
 
 Againft the Some Dyers are of Opinion that the 
 f n ra woSr Braiil Wood Dye mixt with Walnut-tree 
 for mixture yields a lafting Colour in Wool for mixture 5 
 but experience demonftrates the contrary 
 and the ufe of Madder being more efficaci- 
 ous,the defire of ufing it can only be attribu- 
 ted to an illGuftom and difguft againft well 
 doing, for if any Colour laits in the mixture 
 of Stuffs, 'tis rather the efFeft of Walnut 
 or Galls than Brafil, for the violet Colour 
 which it gives to Stuffes, intirely vamfhes, 
 efpecially if they are ufed in Breeches be- 
 twixt the Thighs, or the Stuffs in wearing 
 are expofed to the Sun or ill Weather, it 
 quite changes to a Yellowifli or brown Co- 
 lour very different from the reft; and Indw 
 Wood it felf, tho' ftrengthned with Verdi- 
 greafe,Galls and Coperas in blacks,being ulea 
 in too great quantity either in Grey or wai- 
 
ate 
 
 4& 
 
 The Art of Vying. 233 
 
 nut-tree Dyes, of Wools for mixture or 
 Stuffs or in brownings, is very apt to ipot 
 with the leaft drop of Urine, or any Acid or 
 corroding Liquor : wherefore Woad, Mad- 
 der and Cochineal, are better ufed in Wools 
 or Stuffs of value in Colours where the 
 too great quantity of the other, and the 
 fmall quantity of Galls or Coperas, which 
 may be ufed, produces this ill Effeft. 
 
 CLII. 
 
 There are others who imagine becaufp 
 
 Fuftei and Yellow Wood are pro- Fuftei and 
 
 per in Gold Colour, Shammy or Buff Co- Yello , w 
 lour and neceffary in Olives and Philla- 
 morts that they ought to be allowed in 
 thefe Dyes, that indeed they may be fur- 
 nifhed with an Opportunity of ufingthem 
 in the Baltardizing and ftrengthning of Na- 
 carat Flocks, pale Oranges, or other im- 
 portant Colours which they can alter ; but 
 liippofing that incorporated with Spamfi 
 Broom, it compofes a better, and more 
 lafting Yellow, Olive arid Phillamort 
 Dyes,than Spanif? Broom alone : For who i$ 
 ignorant that knows but the leaft princi- 
 ples of Dying, that Spanifh Broom can- 
 not produce a Phillamort or Olive Colour, 
 if there be not Brew mixt with Yellow 
 in the firft, and above that with the Blew 
 and Yellow for the firft, and Brown 
 Blew and Yellow for the fecond, ' and that 
 the Brown for thefe two Colours can more 
 feafily be tinged with Sut and Walnut-tree ; 
 
 But 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
234 
 
 Beaver 
 
 black 
 
 fulpicicnt. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 But 'tis with this pretext that they Colour 
 
 their earneft defire to have Fuftei !Z 
 
 allowed them, that they may really ufe it 
 r f-f falfifeation of Dyes wherein it i s 
 forbid. Yellow Wood being neverthelefs 
 proper for Blacks, 'twill be neceffary 
 to allow it in places where it (hall be found 
 neceffary. 
 
 CLIIL 
 
 There are yet other Dyers whole Intenti- 
 on to a& flily and clolely renders them 
 more dangerous, who to cloak their contra- 
 vening defigns, defire leave to prepare cer- 
 tain Dyes, as that they call Beaver-Black 
 without being obliged to difclofe what 
 Drugs they ufe, nor the manner of prepa- 
 ring it. If their Drugs were good and al- 
 lowed, they would not have occafion for 
 any other than the general permiffion, but 
 their Ingredient being forbidden we ought 
 always to diftruft their intention, till by 
 a juft examination of the Drugs and man- 
 ner of preparing this Colour, we be 
 able to judge of the good and advantage 
 of this Colour, and of the permiffion 
 which they defire. 
 
 CUV. 
 
 , 
 
 But that no difcoverer of any fecret in 
 this Art maybe deprived of the advantage 
 of his Invention, nor Labour under any in- 
 conveniences by this Examination,nor loofe 
 
 any 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 any other profit by it; if itbe found good and ] 
 advantageous, it will be neceffary to grant 
 thelnventer, or he that brings ir into France, 
 a Patent that no Perfon Lefides himu 
 mould exercife it in that Province : whc 
 he thinks fit to fettle, and that he mould 
 empowered to fell or give leave to othe 
 to exercife it in all the other Counties oj 
 France. 
 
 h 
 
 The ftme 
 refpect to be 
 had ro 
 Strangers. 
 
 CLV. 
 
 The lame may be effectually extended 
 to Foreigners to oblige them by this Privi- 
 lege to difcover their fecret and reap the ad- 
 vantage of it in France h But care ought al- 
 ways to be taken thatagodd fecret never re- 
 main in the hands of onePerfon alone,leaft it 
 mould be loft by his leaving the Kingdom 
 or his Death, which may be eafily re- 
 medyed by allowing them the profit of tea- 
 ching it in other Provinces : But if the fe- 
 cret is known to any Frenchman he ought 
 alwayes to be preferred to Strangers, be- 
 caufe he is likely to flay with the money he 
 gets by it in the Realm. 
 
 CLV. 
 
 As 'tis of great importance to fearch in The R „i tt 
 rrovinces, for all the Herbs, Drugs M ; ne- 0U B ht t0 be 
 rals, or Roots which may contribute ' to SrSmS 
 good Dying- 'tis alfo neceflarv that ditie ^ oFthc 
 they mould not be permitted, before a P ™ 
 itrict examination whether their Colour be 
 
 good 
 
 The lecret 
 ought not 
 to remain 
 in any one 
 Mansbreait. 
 
 French pre- 
 ferred to 
 Strangers. 
 
 •; 
 
«3' 
 
 To prevent 
 impertinent 
 petitions. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 good and profitable, and as there are Pro 
 vinces which want one thing and abound 
 in another which produces the fam e 
 effeft it fhould be committed to thepm. 
 dence of the Judges of Manufaftures 
 that are upon the fpot, who ought to give 
 their refblution in writing upon the petiti- 
 on prefented^ and as delays may be very 
 pernicious, if the ingredient be found to 
 be good, the ufe of it ought to be allowed 
 during the Kings pleafure, or till further 
 order only. 
 
 CLVII. 
 
 But to prevent any impertinent petiti- 
 ons which may be presented upon this oc- 
 cafion, or any other perfon's ferving him- 
 felf of the allowance of any Drug in one 
 Colour, where it is proper, to ufe it in ano- 
 ther, where it pernicioufly either falfifies 
 the Dye or damages the Stuffes, Tis necef- 
 fary to impofe a Penalty upon thofe who 
 prefent thefe petitions^ that they may take 
 care to examine tliem ftyi&ly before they 
 offer them. 
 
 CLVIII. 
 
 Tho 5 'tis certain that aBlackDye in which 
 Indian-wood is ufed as fpecifyedin this in- 
 ftruaion,may be very eafily done and that it 
 is warmer, finer, fofter, and wears better 
 than without it h yet it doth not very natu- 
 rally follow that wefliould therefore de- 
 
the Art of Vying. 
 
 prive the Stuffesof the neceflary ground of 
 Woad, ( as fome Dyers will very impro- 
 perly do in weak and flight Stuffesjas well 
 becaule to render the Black certain and lad- 
 ing, requires a double quantity of other 
 ingredients which renders it dearer than 
 Woad,(which will oblige the Dyers to corri- 
 pafs their ends to retrench the greateft part 
 of the Dye, and thereby render the Co- 
 lour doubly ill : ) as becaufe the Black 
 Dyes where Indian-Woa& is ufed in too 
 great a quantity, without being fortified by 
 a Woad or Woad and Madder ground 
 will fpot and change reddifh in thole pla- 
 ces where Urine or any fliarp liquor happens 
 to come .But as this fccret is difcover'd in all 
 Articles concef ningBlacks in this inftruftion 
 it will be in vain to the Dyers to pretend 
 to conceal it, to furnifli themfelves with 
 a pretext to Dye Black without Woad and 
 Madder Grounds, fince that Colour will 
 not be fu'fficient to hide their Contraventi- 
 on as will appear more clearly in the toth 
 part. 
 
 Obfervatious on fart Seventh and Eighth. 
 
 HTHele two Chapters treating of the fame 
 JJf. . lub J e &, ™*. the allowance and pro- 
 hibition of Dying Ingredients, with this 
 dJtterence only that one of them treats 
 ot the caufe why they are allowed or for- 
 bidden, twill not be improper to join the 
 
 ftSrfT n gether ; *• " 6 * *te Author 
 ipeaks of non Dying Ingredients which are 
 
 either 
 
 237 
 
238 ' The Art of Dying. 
 
 either added to the Dye or make the Stuff* 
 fupple and ftrcnger or ^cleanfethemf among? 
 the firft is Allom, and the laft Tartar ) 1 
 they heighten the Dye as the feveral forts 
 or the ^ Salts with or without alteration as 
 Pot- Allies, Saltpeter, Common Salt, Criltal 
 or Mineral Salt, Sal Armoniac, Lime 
 Afhes-,and without alteration's Liquors £ 
 Spirit of Wine, Urine &c. Of the ufe of the 
 firft, fee notes on §. 18. And concerning Q. 
 rine the Author §.128 tells us that it 
 trightensthe Madder Dyes, but it hath 
 ibmetimesaquite contraryeffefr, eipetially 
 if it be ftale, and the VolatilSalt a little more 
 fermented fork penetrates into the dying Li. 
 quorsand always renders theColour thickand 
 deeper, as may he obferved in the pale and \ 
 deeper Madder Colours. The mentiotfd 
 flowers of Wheat and Peafe as well as 
 Starch and Bran ierve to flacken and temper 
 the hardnefs of the Waters. L 121. The 
 
 mentioned Brafil Wood as alfo Wild 
 fron is much uled in Germany^ but the Co- 
 lour of the latter is fomewhat more durable 
 than the firft, which is no lafting Colour, 
 As for Madder if we would confider our 
 own Intereft we might produce enough of it 
 in Germany to ballancethe Hollanders Ships 
 who trade with us if we pleafed. Iron fi- 
 lings render the Stuff harfh and burn the 
 Dye. As to the prohibition of Alder bark 
 the ingredient is not fo dangerous,but that" 
 well prepared it may very well be allowed ; 
 but of that more in the notes on the next 
 
 Pan - PART 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 *39 
 
 P A R T V. 
 
 ") ii 
 
 bntthei 
 
 The Drugs neceffary to and manner of Vying 
 good Blacks^ with the ncceffary Woad and 
 Madder grounds^ fuitable to the goodnefs 
 and duration of the Stuffs. 
 
 CLIX.. 
 
 T He Black Dye In valuable and miffing p1 ,. T 
 StufFesis mofHmportant,as well becaufe K* c or . 
 this C olour is liable to the moft frauds the - ant Colouff 
 difcovery whereof is very difficult, as' be- mStuffes * 
 caufe 'tis a Dye which is ufed in the fineft 
 StufFes which are worn by people of the 
 belt quality h 'tis alfo neceffary to take ve- 
 ry good care that the Dyers Dye the belt 
 Black that they poffibly can without fenfi- 
 bly injuring the Stuffes or exceflively en- 
 haunting the price of the Dye. 
 
 CLX. 
 
 High prized Scuffesought all to be Mad- % , Stuffc$ 
 for four reafons. oughTto be 
 
 Madder'd. 
 
 CLX1. 
 
 Firft,becaule it renders the Dye the better, 
 more finer and more ferviceable. 
 
 CLXIL 
 

 the Art of Dying. 
 
 CL XII. 
 
 Secondly, becaufe dear Stuffes being 
 made of the fineft Wools, they being mof. 
 Iter and more Oily will be apt to foil and 
 foore eafily catch duft, or the lint of Table 
 Cloths Napkins and did linnen, if they are 
 not well deanfed with Allom, Tartar, and 
 Madder before they are Dyed Black: 
 
 CLXIIL 
 
 thirdly, if the Black Dyes of fine 
 Stuffs are not Maddered, they require more 
 Copperas *, an ingredient much more corro- 
 ding than Allom. 
 
 CLXIV. 
 
 And fourthly, becaufe fine Black Stuffes 
 which have been Madder' d, being dryer 
 and better freed from their Oilyneis, are 
 more healthful in the wearing than if they 
 had not. 
 
 CLXV. 
 
 MadderM No body can deny that fine Stuffes be- 
 
 Black the j ng Madder'd are better, more beautilul ana 
 
 morewholefom than if they had not h but 
 
 we may very well doubt of the wear ana 
 
 fcfting of the Stuffes if we doa'frinowi 
 
 CLXW 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 241 
 
 & 
 
 CLXVI. 
 
 That no Drugs are io (harp and Cor- sl apj 
 ro/ive as Salts, and. particularly Alloin and corroding 
 Copperas, which by their extraordinary %£%££ 
 heat harden the Stuffs and render thems ethe 
 lefs laiting, by drying up the Oleaginous Stuft5 ' 
 humidity which renders them flexible and 
 keeps the Hair of the Wool fall: • but it 
 doth not neceflariiy follow that the fmall 
 quantity of Ahom ufed in a Madder'd 
 Black, corrected with a great deal of Tar- 
 tar and fuffer'd to boil bi^r a very little 
 while, can produce this ill eHeft 5 but on 
 *te contrary the drying the Superfluous 
 Uily Moiltnefs of the Wool and cleaning a little ai- 
 it with Tartar and Madder renders it more ! om f nnm 
 laiting, by hindering the dull from fray* sSL 
 ing in it which eats the Thread of- the 
 VV ool as much as the Mothe, and pre- 
 venting the Lint of Table Cloaths Na- 
 pkins and old Linnen from flicking to 
 it, and alway foiling ir, which tho^ it is a 
 very great fault, yet a great many are ig- 
 norant both of thecaufe and remedy of it. 
 
 CLXV1L 
 If Black Stuffs be faidnot to be Lifting 'tis Th: » slack 
 
 whicTi th0 ?- u ot Madder ' d ' as ^ «4S 
 
 which are^hich may proceed from a fault th - cStuffs 
 in the ^ Stuff, or in its preparation, or k$ft„ 
 
 Allm §n T anCe °{^ D Y^ in not ufing^- 
 Allom, Tartar, Madder, according to the 
 
 " pre- 
 
242 The Art of Dying. 
 
 preferred form or tinging the Black in 
 the proper manner, and with the necef. 
 fary Drugs. 
 
 CLXVIII. 
 
 • 
 
 &r*S xo Tho 5 - there are few Dyers who know the 
 difpcfe'the quality or degree of humidity or drynefs 
 ^V^^eOf the Drug which they ufe, nor why one 
 lively co- Drug is more proper for one Colour than an* 
 other, yet all the great Dyers either know 
 or ought to know that Allom not only 
 diipoieth the Stuffs to receive the Dye, 
 but gives it an agreeable vivacity, and that 
 Tartar is ufed not only to correct the fharp- 
 nefs of the Allom, but to difpofe the Stuff 
 to receive the Dye. Where the lively 
 lufter which Madder adds to the Black Dye 
 is not required, by ufing a very little Al- 
 lom and a fufficient quantity of Tartar, 
 and letting the Stuffs boil a little, the 
 Sharpnefs of the Allom will be removed, 
 as experience confirms. 
 
 CLXIX. 
 
 S2d C — Woad and Madder, are not only ufed 
 in a BhS to beautify the Blacks, and render them 
 STnSf more biting in fine Stuffs, but to. prevent 
 {paring u fe t he exclffive ufe of Coperas, which is ne- 
 «r co F1 -as. c£(r Hf t hev were Dyed from White lffl- 
 mediatelv Black h 16 that to avoid an ima- 
 ginary inconvenience we generally fall 
 a real one, the fharpnefs of the Coperas, 
 which mutt be ufed in greater quantities ; in 
 
The Art of Vying. 243 
 
 H^ fine Stuffs without they are Madder'd, 
 
 being more to be feared than' that of Al- 
 lom, Tartar and Madder. 
 
 CLXX. 
 
 'Tis to no purpofe that fome alledge,, ., ■ . 
 that the Red of Stuff; maddefd for Black, ^^ 
 is more difficult to tinge Black, than the^^f 
 Jivelinefs of Blew, and alfo requires more i^.'* 
 Coperas-, for 'tis well known that this 
 fort of Maddering inclines but a very lit- 
 tle or not at all to Red, and by ufing Indian 
 Wood in the Black Dye, the Red is ea% 
 furmounted, nor need we boil the Stuffs And win 
 long in Galls, nor make the Coperas batfeS^ 
 ** very hot, becaufe Indian Wood, which 2B?S? 
 
 ferves in this place inftead of Galls, makes ^ 
 the Stuffs take the Black if the Bath be 
 but moderately heated, which hinders the 
 tharpnefs and foftens the Stuffs in Black 
 Dyes. 
 
 CLXXI 
 
 . Tho' fine Stuffs ought to be both Wooh fo * 
 Woaded and Maddefd, yet in fine unfpun &* 
 Wools the cafe is different becaufe the Al^ vu 
 lorn and Woad drying the hair of the 
 Wool, render it inflexible to the Spinners 
 dingers, and prevent its keeping fall in the 
 Fulling^ but we ought to cement our felves 
 with Woading them alone, the Blew how 
 deep fo ever always cleanfihg and fofcnine 
 rather than hardning the hair of the Wool 
 
 R 2 CLXXIL 
 
244 
 
 The Art of Vying. 
 
 only 
 
 CLXXlL 
 
 SSS« As Stuffs tG be Dved BIack made of 
 
 andcourfe fine Wool, ought to be Maddefd to dry 
 ought to be snd cleanfe them, fo StufFs made of a mid- 
 ling 'courfe Wool, being ofthemfelvesdiy 
 enough, and often too dry, ought only to 
 be well Woaded, the Woad preferving and 
 augmenting the fofrnefs of the Stuffs, and 
 rendering the Colour very good and lafting 
 if properly ufed,and in fiifficient quantity, 
 according to the goodnefs and ftrength of 
 the Stuffs. But the Blew either of the 
 belt Woad alone or mixt with the {lighter 
 Woad and Indigo, muft be given according 
 to the 8th, 9th, io, and n. Articles of this 
 InftruQion, other wife the Dye will be 
 baftardifed, for which reafon, 'tis- above all 
 of great, importance to take care to have a 
 perfea Black, whether it be Maddefd or 
 Woaded only ; 
 
 CLXXIII. 
 
 Before we can well fix ^g^* of 
 Woad alone, or of Woad and Madder,©* all 
 ibrts of Stuffs to be Dyed Black, accoidg 
 to the finefs of the Wool and ftrength of the 
 Stuff, we ought to be previoufly mtorma. 
 
 CLXXIV. 
 
 Fiift, that ftf*g Rallies f^f^ 
 Serges which are made ot good Wool, M 
 
 prownd for 
 
 Black iuit; - 
 bie to the 
 duration oi 
 Stufl 
 
The Art of Dying. 245 
 
 ing connected together as well by the texture 
 of the Threads,as theconjunciion of the 
 of the Wool which have not been broken by 
 thQ Card or Fullers, Thiitle ought ve 
 
 a ftronger ground than StuiFs of the lame 
 Wool combed, becaufe they lait much long- 
 er 
 
 CLXXV. 
 
 Secondly,Thatthe Dye penetrating much 
 eafier the open, then the faft or dole Stuffs^ 
 the laft fort ought to have a itforiger 
 ground^ that thereby the quick penetra- 
 tion of the Dye in the others may here be 
 compensated by the ftrength. 
 
 CLXXVI. 
 
 Thirdly, Lining Stuffs being commonly 
 more loo fe and open, and lefs expoled 
 to the Sun and Rain, ought to have a leis 
 ground than thole which are more exooled 
 to wearing or the injuries of Weather^ tho* 
 made of the lame Wool. 
 
 CLXXV1I. 
 
 In the fourth place, That the Rallies of f 
 Ghdlom^ dmiem, Rheims^ Cbartres and 
 other flight StuiFs, not being half ft iaftl 
 Jng as thofe of N(/mes, H , ,V. Gan* 
 
 dens and other ftrong Rafhes h they ought 
 ro have a lefs ground proportionable to 
 
 Br 3 their 
 
 
2^6 The Art of Dying 
 
 their duration, tho 5 they coft more and are 
 often made of very fine Wool 
 
 CLXXVIII. 
 
 Woad and • 
 
 Grounds for we may duly and Advantageoufljr 
 
 hig°h U! priz?d Oblerve all that hath been faid, we ought 
 stuffs. to be inform'd that all Cloths of an Eli, 
 and Ell and three quarters, or an Ell and 
 an half, whether Englifh, Spanifi or Dutch; 
 or of Sapte, Carcajfonne, Elbeuf, Rouen^ 
 Sedan, or other forts of make, of the rlnefs 
 and breadth which exceeds the Price of 
 1 2 Livers the Ell, fhould be Woaded like 
 an Jldeguo and Maddefd as the beft fort. 
 
 CLXXIX. 
 
 The Draps d& Berry or Cloaths of Berry, 
 Sigovia, Roiien, Dieppe, Fefcan, Carcafone 
 and Sedan, all forts of fine Ratines, Serges 
 of Slgovla and Limepe, double Serges and 
 others fuch like Stuffs of what breadth or 
 make foever, from 4 Livers 10 Sous to 
 twelves Livres the Ell, friou'd be Woaded 
 to a Perfick Blew (BJeupers) and a little 
 lefs Maddefd than the others above, and 
 for thofe under 4 Livers to Sols they ought 
 to be Woaded to a Perfick Blew, and not 
 Maddefd at all. 
 
 CLXXX. 
 
 Druggets of fine Wools called half ful- 
 led Druggets, narrow Ratines, Corieht® 
 
 
an 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 of Avignon and other 3 tuffs of the fame 
 Nature, of half Ell or a quarter of an Ell 
 wide, exceeding the Price of three Livers 
 the Ell, ought to be Woaded to a Perfick 
 Blew and Madder'd in the fame manner as 
 the Serges and Ratines above mention d 5 
 Having always reipeft to their Price and 
 breadth. 
 
 247 
 
 CLXXXI. 
 
 Cloath Serges and Ratines of whatlbever Woad 
 breadth, make or flnefs, from 3 Livers to wfrhom 
 four Livres 10 Sous the Ell, ought to be ^*£f r n< w 
 Woaded to a Perfick Blew, and thole of fivers 10 
 lefs Price to the Blew de Roy, Kings Blew 7 , ***$*&. 
 without being Madder'd. 
 
 CLXXXIL 
 
 London, Chalons and Rheims Serges, Pol- * so called 
 hilaire Rafies and the * Loids Rafi of L7o^ 
 Rifmes and Usez, fine Ra/hes oi'Jlby, Cafircs jirieswear- 
 and Montauban, ftrong Crofs Lords Rafies U1§ 
 of St. Gaudem,Roman Serges: Lords Serge, '^SfeGw* 
 Serge deSomere aNarrow double Serge,.Fta- stuffs which 
 ders Barracans, double Burats of St (?**!" thclFrye ™ 
 dens, and other the like forts of Stuffs of 
 the fame breadth of whatlbever make, not 
 exceeding 2 Livers the Ell, ought, to be 
 
 Woaded as the Perfick Blew and not Mad. 
 der'd. 
 
 wear. 
 
 R 
 
 CZXXXIII. 
 
 
 m 
 
248 
 
 >ad 
 
 sround 
 
 flight S 
 
 for 
 
 or 
 
 The Art of Dying, 
 
 CLXXXIII. 
 
 The midling fort of Satines of Beauvais 
 BngUJh Frifes^Bayes, Serges and. Flannels * 5 
 Serges ofjdouij, Merrmi,AwnaUc, Creve cceur- 
 Rq/hes of 'St. Lpand,StGaudens',LingettesoiCadu 
 and Falaife, Camelot or Camblets of Amily 
 Arras andLL' Ifle-,Bayes oi' Command. Bitrguiere 
 flight Ratines of-Sommere^ Cadri, Daricane- y 
 Crapes of Cajires, and all other forts of Nar- 
 row Stuffs, of what make foever, from 2$ 
 pence to 40 pence the Ell, ought to be 
 Woaded as the Turkift Blew without be- 
 ing Maddefd. 
 
 CLXXXIV. 
 
 Friies of Amiens and Valentine of \ of an Ell, 
 broad Serges of Chartres,Nogsnt and of Char- 
 ires make, Car delates of Cre, flight Fripons 
 and Cadis of Nifmes, Serge of Aumalle oftwo 
 thirds breadth;, Tamies oi Amiens, du Lude, de 
 Rheims, flight Burats of St. Gaudens and 
 I) Auvergne Rafhes not Croffed and Cadis 
 of St. Gaudens and all other flight Stuffs, 
 from 12 to 25 pence the Ell, ought at leafi* 
 to be Woaded to a Sky Colour. 
 
 CLXXXV. 
 
 The Cadis and Frifons diftty du Gevan- 
 dan, flight CnrMtits of St. Genius, Biirattes* 
 of Jiivergm, Serges of St. Flour, avA other 
 
 nr%f pvrppHino- i? nence the 
 
 HI 
 
 .jlightStufc, not exceeding 12 pence the 
 

 The Art of Dying. 
 
 £11, ought to be Woaded as the Blew Meg- 
 vvhich is but halt 'the mixture 
 
 249 
 
 non 
 
 of the Sky Colour ^ and .the Reader ought 
 to take Notice that all the mention'd 
 prizes of the Stuffs are meant when they 
 are yet white. 
 
 CLXXXVI. 
 
 Wool for 
 mixtures. 
 
 All Wools for mixture ought to be caps. 
 Woaded with the lame ground with the . 
 Stuffs, wherein they are to be ufed, with- 
 out Maddering, that they may have a Dye 
 finable to their Value. Woolen Caps ought 
 to Woaded to the fame ground, with their 
 Wool, and Woofted Stockens exceeding 3 
 Livres the Pair ought to be Dyed, accord- 
 to their finefs, being to be Woaded as the 
 Kings Blew h Thofe from 40 pence to 3 
 Livres as the TmkifJy Blew, and thofe of 
 lower prizes as Sky Colour : But for the 
 Wools for Farandines or other Stuffs where 
 the Wool is Covefd, 'twill be fufficient to 
 Woad them as Sky Colours, this ground 
 being enough to give thefe forts of Manu- 
 factures a perfecf BlacL ihecrounj 
 
 3 may b 
 
 Augminted 
 
 Cl VYYVlT 
 
 The great and lelTer Dyers ought to be 
 allowed to augment the ground in the Dy- 
 ing of Stuffs, whether that of Woad only 
 or that of Woad and Madder, as the 
 Merchants may (if they think fit to pay the 
 Fnce for it) order a ftronger ground, bin 
 ft ought to be ftriaiy forbidden to both. 
 
 M 
 
 I 
 
 V 
 
 
250 The Artof Vying. 
 
 Merchant and Dyers, to Diminifh or caule 
 to be Diminifhed, the Grounds order'd by 
 thefe Rules, becaufe they ought at lealt 
 to come up to that to deferve the Name 
 of good Dyes. 
 
 Patterns of 
 every 
 Ground to 
 be kept in 
 the Halls. 
 
 How Stuffs 
 which have 
 a good 
 Ground 
 
 CLXXXVIII. 
 
 And to the end that no Perfon may be 
 excufed from giving the due Grounds to 
 all forts of Stuffs, feveral Patterns of four 
 Ells each, fhou'd be Dyed with every fort 
 of Ground, half of which to be lodged in 
 the Hall or Corporation of Merchants and 
 Dyers in every Town, to ferve as Matter 
 Peices to have recourfe to upon all 0* 
 cafions. 
 
 CLXXXlX 
 
 vjrouna 
 
 ^uft be well >Twould be to no purpofe to take care that 
 Py a good Ground he belWd on all Wool- 
 
 len ManufaQurs and Wools,if the fame care 
 be not taken that a good Black be Dyed 
 upon that afterwards, by well Galling them 
 with a fufficient quantity of Galls, and bu- 
 mack,and if Sumach be wanting with Rodoui 
 and Fovk, and tinging them Black in the 
 fam ebath with a fufficient quantity of Indw 
 Wood and Coperas with a little Verdigre a r 
 the Indian Wood being firft boiled alone, 
 fuffering it to take leifurely, often ladmgana 
 Ventilating it, by which means the B» 
 will be render'd more Beautiful and ion, 
 as well as more certain and kiting,^" 
 
The Art of Dying. 251 
 
 wear much better than \f Indian Wood were 
 not ufed in it. That Ingredient alcertain- 
 ing and Melionting the Dye, with the 
 Jielp of Galls and Coperas. Yellow Wood 
 is alio very ufefiil in Blacks. 
 
 Stuffs ought 
 f^tr/^ to have 
 
 VjAv^! roopa 
 
 enough in 
 
 'Tis not enough that care only be taken theCopper - 
 that a fufficient quantity of Galls, Coperas, 
 Indian Wood and Sumach or R 7 — and 
 Fovk in lieu, of it be ufed to produce a 
 good Black. But the Stuffs ought to be 
 fpreaci at large in the Copper, and not 
 ..crowded that they may not' wrinckle and ' 
 Burn rather than Dye. 
 
 
 CXCI. 
 
 To prevent the Blacks rolling of Linnen 
 Black or Blew, the Stuffs ought to be well 
 cleaafed before we begin to Dye them, and 
 the Copper well prepared when we 'give 
 them the Blew,, and care ought to be taken 
 that the Blew be not of Indigo alone, or 
 wed in a third or fourth reheating 5 becaufe 
 all thefe hinder the adhefion of the Dye to 
 tne Stuffs, and occafion its throwing it 
 orr upon Linnen. The Stuffs ou^ht to be 
 very well Wafted after the Blew, and alfo 
 after the Black, or rather pafs a imall ful- 
 ling it poflible, for the Blacker the Dve 
 the greater is the difficulty of Wafting 
 it. bturts of price ought alfo to be paffed 
 
 Jnd ioften them. CXCIT 
 
 i 
 
/ 
 
 « 5 2 
 
 J#<? Art of Dying. 
 
 Quantities 
 Of Ingredi- 
 ents fbr 
 Blacks 
 ought to be 
 Regulated 
 betwixt the 
 greater and 
 -lefler Dyers 
 
 As the quantity of the Drugs which the 
 leffer Dyer h is obliged to put into his 
 Blacks, cannot he regulated, otherwife than 
 upon the fpot according to the length 
 breadth, finefs and goodnefs of the Stuff, it 
 ought alfo to vary according to the variety 
 of Grounds arid 'tis then to be feared that 
 the leffer Dyer fhould retrench, a part of the 
 quantity, which fliall be Eftablifhed, to 
 lave his purfe at the expence of the Dye; 
 
 CXCIII. 
 
 3 Tis necelTary that at the fame time the 
 divifion betwixt the greater and the leffer 
 Dye is made, the quantity of the In- 
 gredients which every leffer Dyer fhou'd 
 be obliged to ule, in the dying of every 
 fort of Stuff which they are acculfcmed 
 to Dye back in every City, fhould be fettl- 
 ed betwixt the greater and lefler Dyer, 
 and orders given to the Jury of the great 
 Dyers to go twice every Month, at lean, 
 to fearch the leffer Dye Houfes, to take 
 care of the goodnefs and quantity of tne 
 Ingredients, and the manner of ufing them-, 
 to the end that the Stuffs, to which they 
 have given a good Ground, may alfo nave 
 a good Black bellowed m them •, ; and « 
 the greater Dyers cannot agree with tne 
 leffer Dyers about the quantities, tne 
 Judges ofManufifturesor Commiffioners, 
 " ° may 
 

 into 
 
 
 
 The Art of Vying. 253 
 
 may adjuft and regulate them, from the 
 Reafons of both fides, or according tocuf 
 torn. 
 
 CXCIV. 
 
 The better to oblige the lefler Dyers, to 
 put in the juft quantity of Ingredients, 
 'twou'd be convenient to caufe three or four 
 Ells of every fort of Stuff, and Ground, to be 
 very well Dyed Black with the proper 
 quantities of Ingredients, which fhould af 
 terwards pais into a Kule of quantities 5 and 
 thefe patterns to be diipofed, one third 
 to the Corporation of lefler Dyers, 
 one Third to the Company of the great 
 Dyers, and the other to the Company of 
 Merchants, to ferve as Mailer pieces and' Pat- 
 terns to determine concerning the goodnefs 
 of the DyQ, both as to its lultre and 'boiling. 
 
 Obfervations on the Ninth Part. 
 
 'J'O confider the Black Dye, after our 
 Author feems to have Handled it to 
 perfe&ion, to render it yet more extenfive 
 and clear, and to handle it more Fundamen- 
 tally, will not be improper. Wherefore 
 to let his reafons, for the neceffity of Ella* 
 Miming Madder, and other Grounds or 
 rather neceffary Grounds, in General,' to 
 let them, I fay, depend on their own we'ight 
 and not to touch upon §, 168. concern- 
 ing the Working of Allom, becaufe we 
 
 S t^j M T h We ^ al1 ™^ly 
 pals to 169, and. 170. In the firft, he 
 
 gives 
 
 ■ 
 
254 Tl ye A rt °f tying 
 
 gives the reafon of Madder Grounds 
 being neceffary from the advantage which 
 accrues from its prevention of the exceiTive 
 life of Coperas ^ but in the' latter he gives 
 a fuppoied anfwer to an Qbje&ion, not 
 ib flight as he would have us think it is. As 
 to the firit, 'tis eafy to believe that to 
 Dye a Stuff Dark Colour or Black 
 which hath already been Dyed a prepa- 
 ratory Colour require Ids of the Black or 
 deep Dye than to dye it from White $ but 
 here are two difficulties to be cleared, 
 Firft, whether Ids of all the Ingredients be 
 required, or when prepared lels of the 
 Dye, or lefs of one Ingredient alone which 
 the Author feems to mean, Secondly whe- 
 ther to Dye Black well, one Ground is bet- 
 ter than another, and which is the belt. 
 To clear the firlt ^tis neceffary to lay down 
 the whole Ground of the Black Dye. 
 
 He that by the help of Chymiftry is 
 fomewhat acquainted with Nature, knows 
 that in all Dyes produced from Vegetables, 
 whether from Trees, Flowers, or Fruits, the 
 Bodies, either Naturally or Artificially 
 Salt produce feveral Alterations : alfo that 
 ail Acids, as Allom, Salt and above the reit 
 fharp Acids or Acid Spirits, as thofe ot 
 Salt, Vitriol, and Vinegar, turn the Vegetable 
 Dyes Red ; and that if the Green Vegeta- 
 ble its felf be infufed in one of thele li- 
 quors it is Tinged Red : The Alcaline Salts, 
 as Salt of Tartar Pot- Allies, and all boiU 
 Allies or Lies and fixed Salts fetch tne 
 Colour to Green again. The Urinary vo- 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 iatile Salts, as Saltoftlrin, Urinary Spirit 
 of Sal Armoniac. &c. rather turn the 
 Dye thick then alter it. To give a re- 
 markable Inftance in one of thefe tender 
 Colours. Take Tinfture of Violets 
 m a Glafs, or a little Blew Lack infuf- 
 ed in a Viol of Water, pour on it Spi- 
 rit of Salt or Vitriol and it will become 
 Ked throw in diffolved Salt of Tar- 
 tar and it returns to its Colour, but put in 
 too great a quantity of this infufion and it 
 becomes Green, and of both more or left, 
 as it proceeds from the one or the other • 
 and this alteration is general to all Vege- 
 tables, with this difference only, that the 
 fine or tender Colours are changed after a 
 different way from the Grofs and hard ones t 
 the former, as we have already fhewen, and 
 the latter Change a quite different way 
 according as they have more or lefs of a 
 Woody or Vifcous Nature mixt with their 
 Koiin and therein confiiting Colour, as al- 
 io according as the mixture is more or 
 lelsiubtile, as will appear hereafter. We find 
 that Rmds, Wood or Fruit of vegetables 
 by the Addition of Allom, orwhichis more 
 unlikely Vitriol, are charg'd from the moft 
 uncertain and Imperceptible Colours, to the 
 molt perceptible, namely Black. A moft 
 Remarkable Inftance of which we have in 
 the Oak Leaves, and Fruit, and more par- 
 ticular y in the Excrefcence which prows 
 upon the eaves thought to be little Berries 
 or Galls, befides the Gails which are com- 
 monly produced by a particular fort of 
 
 Oak. 
 
 255 
 

 ^v 
 
 
 - 
 
 25 
 
 T^he Art of Dying. 
 
 Oik. 'Tis alfo to be ohferv'd of the Al- 
 der, that upon the proper mixture of .brok* 
 en pieces of it with Sumach, alfo here re- 
 quired, the prevailing Tait is according to 
 the Phyfitians, an Aitrigent or Rough bit- 
 ter and Salt, and when either of thefe is 
 boiled with Vitriol it yields a Black Liquor- 
 but other Aftringent Vegetables do not 
 produce the fame effeft, as clearly ap- 
 pears in immature Crabs or Choak-Pears, 
 which if tryed will not fucceed like the 
 former Ingredients : But to folve this 
 Th&nomenaon^ belt, the bitter Saltnefs, 
 ought to be Corrected with a Subtil Wood 
 daft or Powder, which " leaves a rougher 
 farewell behind, and then the bitter Saltnefs 
 is removed. 
 
 From whence may Naturally be inferred, 
 that all Vegetables which are Aftringent, 
 and have a rough fare we I ^ the more they 
 incline to change Black,, the longer their 
 rough farewel lafts upon the Palate. On 
 the Contrary, there are fome Aftringent 
 Woody Materials, which are not Subject 
 to this alteration * the belt Inftance where- 
 of is Madder, which when boiled withfo 
 large a quantity of Vitriol or Coperas, that 
 it turns to a Black Brown, if poured off and 
 left in a VeiTel to fetle, the Brown will 
 infallibly fink 'to the bottom, and leave the 
 remaining Liquor of a Yellowifh undiitin- 
 guifhable Brown : But boil the Madder 
 firft with Pot- Allies, and then add a Solu- 
 tion of Vitriol audit will . yeild a Dark 
 Clove Brown, proportionable to the grea- 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 ter or lefler quantity of each or both In- 
 gredients, from which experiment I con- 
 clude, dm Madder hath a Quality which 
 in conjunction with Vitriol, will produce a 
 Black, tho' neither of the ;c- 
 
 diately yield that Tinfture, ytt the Vitriol 
 leems to contribute the molt, becauie mix* 
 with Gall, as well as in conjunction with 
 Madder, it produces Blacky io chat the lat- 
 ter feems not to he io Lnfirumental in 
 the Black as'- the other. But the better to 
 obierve its defect, twill not be amirs to 
 conhder three things 5 firft, If we compare 
 -Madder with Galls we fhall find that 
 the buternefs of "Madder is more fubtile, 
 but not fo lafting and Poinant as the Galls, 
 which leave a very perceptible Mringenqr 
 m the Mouth, and the Madder is not lo 
 rough as the orher ; whence may be infer- 
 red, that its fait is not fufiicientiy near of 
 Km to be Corrected by "ligneous matter, or 
 that it hath a Root of a different Nature 
 from the Wood, which is truly diffoluble 
 into thefe fairs. Thirty; id Madder we 
 may obierve a plentiful Tinftufe, which is 
 not obvious in Galls, but they are w be 
 boiled with the Stuffs long enough to make 
 your Powder ftick in the Port f 
 
 from all which it appears chat there is no 
 hmilitudc betwixt the effects of Galls and 
 Madder, without the intermediate affiftapte 
 of Pot-afhes, which alter the Operation im- 
 mediately. If we confide* the effefts of 
 Pot-afhes upon Madder by a mixture of 
 both, we may obferve that the Madder 
 
 ^ turns 
 
 257 
 
 
 
258 The Art of Dying. 
 
 turns to a Rofe Colour or fort of Purple 
 Blood Colour, but not in the leaft'to the 
 Black or Brown, for the Purple is a Red 
 Blew and not a Black Red, from whence 
 it may reafonably be concluded that the 
 change in the mixture of Madder and Vi- 
 triols not in the leaft owing to the former. 
 But now come we to confider what efTeS 
 Pot-afhes have upon Vitriol ^ wherefore 
 take Vitriol , diflblved in warm Water, and 
 put to it diflblved Salt of Tartar or Pot- 
 afhes h after the putting in the Coperas or 
 green Vitriol, and feveral Ebullitions, it 
 becomes firft Yellow and then deep Brown, 
 or fometimesa Black Tin&ure, according 
 as the Vitriol is impregnated with Iron, 
 from whence I infer, that Madder could not 
 contribute any thing to that end in our former 
 Experiment 5 but let this Black Brown 
 Liquor, produced from the mixture, Hand 
 a little to fettle,or filtrate it, and the whole 
 Subltance of the Black Brown fettles to 
 the bottom or remains behind in the fli- 
 tting Cloath, and the Liquor appears bright 
 and clear •, when on the contrary, in the 
 before mentioned Procels, with Vitriol 
 and Madder, after the fetling of thegrofs 
 Particles, the Liquor appeared of a Clove 
 Brown Colour, without diluting, and thj 
 Sediment fouler and thicker -„ from which 
 it clearly appears that the Salts did not u- 
 nite in that experiment, and that in the 
 mixture of Pot-afhes and Vitriol, new 
 Salts are produced. From what hath 
 h^m obierved^ the Ground of the Black 
 Dye may be Collefted, for Firft, Every 
 
 thing 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 thing doth not produce every thing, nor can 
 you infer what you will, from what you 
 will, but muft determine from determined 
 Principles. Black is not produced from e- 
 very Ingredient, but from known Materials*, 
 among which experience tells us that Galls 
 and Vitriol are beft : The former is impreg- 
 nated with a bitter harih Salt, which Cor- 
 rodes and Coagulates its own ligneous parts. 
 And the latter is known to be anAcid,thatal- 
 fo Corrodes and Coagulates Iron and Copper 
 and upon a mixture of thefe two, the Alcalous 
 Salt of the Galls ib operates uponthe Acidity 
 of the Vitriol, and fo unites with it, that a 
 uqw Body is produced, both quitting 
 their formef Principles, viz. Subtil Oak 
 Puftand Iron, which they fuffer "to fink to' 
 >t'fe bottom, and from this mixture the 
 Black Liquor,a Body of a new Figure,is pro- 
 duced, which becomes thick from its con- 
 tained Salt 5 and the Subtil movingParticles 
 cannot fo foon link to the Bottom, but re- 
 quire fometime as appears clearly in com- 
 mon Ink, which at firlt continues blackeft 
 whilft the contained Allom and Salt of Vi- 
 triol are thick, but decant it and pour 
 frefli Water upon it, and the Ink immedi- 
 ately becomes white : Decant the firft black 
 Ink, and let it feme time in the Air, and the 
 blackeft thick matter fettles to the bottom 
 tho' the Liquor by the Salts yet therein re- 
 maining, throws up the moft Subtil Parti- 
 cles, not fuffering them to fink to the bot- 
 tom, the Liquor fo that is yet black enough. 
 Thus it follows from our Hypothefis above 
 mentioned, upon f. 169, that according to 
 
 2S9 
 
 
 
 air 
 
 £ 
 
/ 
 
 25>o The Art of Vying. 
 
 curmevticnd Method the proper quantity of 
 the chief Ingredient, viz. Vitriol, cannot 
 be diminifhed without diminifhing the other 
 or in reality the quantity of the Dye it felf j 
 but lefs quantities of Jiefe Dying Ingredi- 
 ents are necefTary when the Stuffs have before 
 received a Preparatory Dye •, but it is not 
 hence to be concluded that the quantity of 
 Galls, Sumach or Alder Bark, may be en- 
 creafed, and that of Vitriol diminished ^ for 
 the blacknefs of the Dye is caufed by the 
 Subtil Particles of Iron, and by how much 
 more Subtil the Panicles are, fb much black- 
 er is the Dye (for the thick Particles con- 
 tain but a very weak Styptick quality, and 
 if they bind at all they Corrode the Stuff, 
 which is the reafon that the filings of Iron 
 are forbidden, in all forts of Black throughout 
 the whole Traft$ ) nowthefe particles pre- 
 cipitate & combine with the Subtil Ligneous 
 Particles,and the remainder not having imbi- 
 bed a fufficient quantity of Vitrioline Mat- 
 ter, remains Yellowifh and can never to be 
 tinged Black. But the better to clear this 
 difficulty, let us examine, whether one laft- 
 ing Dye conduces more to the Dying a per- 
 feci: deep Black, than another, and which 
 that is. Our Author himfelf feems to offer 
 this to our Confideration, §. 1 70. in endea- 
 vouring to anfwer an Objection, which 
 prefers the Blew Ground to the Red, be- 
 caufe the latter is harder to turn black, and 
 confequently requires more Coperas, which 
 rots the Stuff. But to explain this, let us lay 
 down two principles, which refult from 
 
 what our Author Afferts, viz. Fiift, That 
 
 Stuffs 
 
aaH 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Stuffs dved from White to Black, or with 
 a Black Ground,are not Lifting, and ^dt 
 
 reafbn u nt a ilight red Ground : and, Se- 
 condly, That Indian or Blew W Meli- 
 orates the whole Dye : Then I Would ; 
 why rhe Red Blew or any other Ground is 
 given to the Stuffs > To which 'tis an- 
 swered, That it drys and clean f? :s the Stuff 
 from its Oilinels and Spots as §. i£i\ but 
 I dare affure the Reader, that this efieQ is 
 not direclly owing to the Madder, but if 
 any thing of that Nature is to be expected, 
 'tis wh( to be afcribed 10 the Allorti and 
 Pot-aflies: But, Secondly, ■:•. if- 7. We are 
 told that this Procefs gives occalion to a 
 more fparing ufe of Vitriol, buttnerea- 
 fonablenefs of that I am a Stranger to • for 
 the Red Ground is given to the Stuff, as 
 previous to a Black Dye, or that it (hould 
 remain Red : If the firft is defign'd? 
 Then doubtlefs fomething elfe mult be added 
 to make it Black, and there is no Ingredient 
 that is known to do it better, nor fo well as 
 Vitriol, wherefore the more is required h 
 for, Firft, There muft be fo much uied as 
 will blacken the Galls, and after that Inch 
 a quantity a part as will tinge the Madder 
 Black ; and being convinced by the former 
 experiment, that Vitriol will not turn 
 Madder Black, nor even Brown without 
 the help of a great quantity of Pot-afhes • it 
 follows that the Red is not defign'd to be 
 changed in the Stuff, or 'tis contradictory to 
 realon, according to the foft cleared Hypo- 
 thecs and to Experience it feffi But is the 
 Ked Colour to remain upon the Stuff? I 
 
 S 3 then 
 
 26l 
 
 
 
 
w^ 
 
 Y 
 
 
 
 262 The Art of Dying. 
 
 then ask why ? but find the appearance of 
 an Anfwer, •;. 160. 161. That all high pri- 
 fed Stufis ought to be Madder d for four 
 Realons. Firft, becaufe it renders the Dye 
 better, finer and more ferviceable^ in what 
 Senfe it is better\i, may be collected from 
 what has been faid. Secondly, That 'tis fi- 
 ner, but then we ought to Confider which 
 is fineft, the deepelt Black that continues 
 Black to the laft, or neareft to Black in the 
 wear, or baftard Black, which appears 
 Brownifh to the Eye and wears Brown : Say 
 it is the laft, then our Authors afiertion is 
 good, and the Impofition continues, but itick 
 to reafon, and believe Black to be Black,and 
 to be fb much the finer, by how much 
 Blacker it is, and the Confequence is obvi- 
 ous. Thirdly, But if it; be asked which I 
 think the belt Ground, the Red or what 
 other Colour ? To this I anfwer, That if 
 a Ground be necefiary and advantagious, 
 to the Stuff in preventing that fo much of 
 the Black Dye, or confequently of the Vi- 
 triol, be not required, and that it feems to be 
 better cleanied, and more proper to have 
 a previous dark Dye, which fhould cleanfe 
 and make it wear better • the Anfwer begets 
 another Queftion, whether the Ground be 
 beft that is deepeft or darkeft, and ap- 
 proaches neareit to Black ? If io, without 
 doubt the Blew is more proper than the. 
 Red, and the Brown than both •, for if we 
 confider upon both accounts, which molt 
 Approximates to the Black, we then find no 
 affinity betwixt that and the Red, gut the 
 
 Browtf* 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 Brown, efpecially the Walnut-tree Brown, 
 feems to be very near a Kin to it, but mix 
 it with Red and Yellow, and it is one third 
 more remote. On the contrary, take white 
 burnt Gypfum or Plaifter, and mix it with 
 a good Black, by how much better the 
 Black is, io much finer will its produced 
 Grey be, and take a well mixt light Grey, 
 and jt will be found to incline fb much to 
 the Blew, that 'tis hard to believe that it 
 hath any Black in it, from all which I con- 
 clude, that no ground is more proper for 
 Blacks, than Blew, nor caufes the Black to 
 wear better, for when it fades it turns to- 
 wards Grey, which is a Species of Black : 
 but I expetl: it fhould be warmly demanded 
 whether the beft Judge's in the Art of Dy- 
 ing, would prefer the Blew before the Wal- 
 nut-tree Ground in Blacks h but if they 
 had ever been inform'd that the Walnut 
 Dye produceth it felf a principal Black, 
 and is fo ufed by the Silk Dyers, they would 
 give place to the Blew- And if any would 
 ask why the Stufffhould not be Grounded by 
 the Brown , when it hath been fufficiently 
 proved above, that the Black Dye is the 
 deepeft Brown, and is hard, rough, and 
 aftringent from its darknefs of " Colour, 
 and therefore lefs of it fhould be ufed,' 
 and if it be confider'd, what Ingredi- 
 ents mult be ufed in the Walnut 
 Brown, and that the Black can only be 
 help'd by its like, viz. Vitriol, upon 
 Teading§. 163, and undemanding it, we 
 will not be eajily made to believe that many 
 
 S 4 vvon- 
 
 2&3 
 
 
 
264 The Art of Vying. 
 
 wonderful Arguments lye againft it : Not to 
 mm that according to this way the 3 
 grounded Stiffs which are defied to beI>M 
 immediately from white to black, differ in 
 nothing elie, from thofe Grounded -with 
 Brown, but only in the Preparation with 
 dalls, mention'd <■. 4.. From all which I 
 take it for granted, that I have fufficiently 
 proved the Blew Ground to be bell, and 
 leave thofe who are fond of our Author's 
 Opinion in Favour of the Red Ground 
 corre^ :: : with the Indian or Blew Wood, to 
 their choice, whether they had rather 
 choofe a Dye prepared from pure lafting 
 Materials, which is fundamentally good, 
 or perform the Operation with ufelefs In- 
 gredients, with the addition of another 
 iiill as worthlefs, and render the Dye weak 
 and fading 1 : And fo much for the deci- 
 £on bfthefirft Queftion. 
 
 After having confider'd theGround of the 
 Black Dye, proceed we to the praclick Part 
 thereof, Jo tar as is neceflary to a funda- 
 mental Iiiitraftion in general 5 * which, 
 'tis plain, from the Reafons above men- 
 tion'd, confifts in the proper uie of Vitriol, 
 and the before named Vegetables, be/ides 
 feme others which are either not fo much 
 in nfe or not fo well known, calfd by the 
 
 French Rodent - and Fuvic. Tis the 
 
 greater part of praclick Dung by uncer- 
 tain F.-rperimeiits co difcover the proportion 
 of Vitriol and 1 :ch will produce 
 
 the defigtfd Dye, and what farther quantity 
 is to be added to heighten it as much as deli- 
 red 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 red and not more, to which end take Galls, 
 break them to pieces or beat them fmall, 
 boil them pretty long in Water, let it 
 cool, and ftrain it through a piece of Cloth, 
 fo carefully that none of the thick part pafs 
 through 5 then take Vitriol, lay it thin up- 
 on a Difl^ put it into a warm Stove or 
 Oven, or in Summer expoie it to the Sun 
 upon a piece of Slate, till it. becomes fria- 
 ble, when it will be white or a .little Yel- 
 lowifh, and turns to Powder, which lay in 
 frefh cold Water, Itirring it, after which 
 let it ftand a whole Night, and then you 
 will find a Yellowifh Sediment at the bot- 
 tom of the Glafs, decant the Liquour fo far 
 as 'tis clear, and filter the remainder thro 5 
 Brown Paper, ftill taking care to put an 
 equal quantity of Water to each proportio- 
 nable to its Weight, one being to be boiled 
 the other to be ftirred. For Example. Take 
 one part of Galls, and half part Vitriol 
 and let the proportion of Water anfwerto 
 each of thefe, otherwife if too great a 
 quantity of Water be ufed, it will caufe a 
 remarkable difference in the Black. But to 
 come to experience, take firfl of this Gall 
 Water one part, and of the Vitriol Water 
 
 v £ P a ?' I ? lx them t0 § erher in a Glafs 
 v eiiel, in a iecond mix one part Gall Wa 
 
 ter and one third part of the Solution of 
 Vitriol, and m a third mix one part of the 
 
 thdecLfT fourrh P a S of ^e other. Set 
 tneie Glaifes in an exaft equal heat in an 
 
 SKBre Io r t one s ££ 
 
 remarkably warm than rhe other, and the 
 
 quan- 
 
 26$ 
 
 i 
 
 ■** 
 
266 The Art of Dying. 
 
 quantity of Liquor proportion^ to cacfc 
 and you will find the J.efs Quantity of Li 
 quor hotfirft, and mix and incorporate 
 its felt with more warmtfi than the larger 
 quantity : when it feems to heat without 
 boiling, you may make your Obfervations 
 npon them fucceffivdv : And as many 
 proves as you make, take fo many pieces of 
 white Paper, and make them up in Conical 
 Shapes like our Sugar-loaves, and into each 
 of thefe pour as near as poiTible an equal 
 quantity of the Black Liquor in each of the 
 GlaiTes, marking the Cones which Glafs they 
 belong to, by which you will eafilv be ena- 
 bled to make a Judgment, which is the 
 blackeft, and that is certainly the belt 
 ' I have formerly put one part Galls and 
 half part Vitriol, but it fucceeded only ac- 
 cording to example. If an equal quantity of 
 each be tried, the experiment will not be 
 accompanied with any inconvenience, but 
 it is certain that betwixt the Galls and Vitri- 
 ol, you may try withal, the proportion of 
 mutual Cohaefion or degree of Black being 
 adjufted, the Galls will not imbibe any 
 more Vitriol than necefiary, and lb the Dye 
 will not be deepned by any addition thereof, 
 and in one word, 'tis abiolutely necelTary, 
 and of the greateft importance, by this or 
 lome other Experiment,to find the nice pro- 
 portion of Vitriol to the Galls, which will 
 io deepen the Dye, that a farther addition 
 of Vitriol cannot render it Blacker : In or- 
 der to which I dare allure any Critic that 
 he may eafily lee, that when he has once 
 
 di- 
 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 difcover'd the juft quantity of Vitriol, how- 
 ever great it be, he need not be afraid that 
 any inconvenience will accrue thereby. 
 When the Dye is once perfectly made, if 
 youthrtfw in yet more Galls than theabove- 
 mentton'd proportion, they have no more 
 effeft than if you threw them out of the 
 Window, and repeat the Attempt, and you 
 will find it the lame thing. On the contra- 
 ry prepare the Dye from the juft propor- 
 tions, and as much or as many times as you 
 boil it, after 'tis once finifhed, lb much you 
 make it worleinftead of improving it, tho' 
 you throw in frelh Colour, for you do not 
 leave it half its ftrength, the other being 
 evaporated. Secondly, 'tis abfolutely 
 neceiTary to difcover the juft proportion 
 of Galls and Vitriol, becaufe too much 
 Vitriol is of worle confequence than an ex- 
 cels in Galls ^ the reafbn is plainly this, 
 tho' as is fufficiently proved by the menti- 
 oned experiments, that 'tis utterly impoffible 
 to produce a Black Dye without Vitriol, 
 Yet it is as true that too much of it renders 
 the Suds Corrofive andfharp, wherefore the 
 Black Dye by realon of its neceflarv cor- 
 rofive Ingredients is the moft diftruftive 
 to the StufTes, and fo when more Vi- 
 triol than is abfolutely neceiTary, is uled, 
 the Stuff is more Corroded than neceffity 
 obliges, and therefore the damage is grea- 
 ter on this fide than on that of the Galls s 
 lor let a Dyer throw in a fourth part of a 
 hundred weight of Galls to a quart of Vi- 
 triol the damage is not much, but a piece 
 
 of 
 
 • \ 
 
S*8 The Art of Dying. 
 
 of Stuffs of twelve or thirteen P^ • 
 
 that the Threads are yifible, and tears a *Z ' 
 as put upon the Body, andV^lSA* 
 erved that the Dyer will not bS£ 
 to make good the Damage, any more 
 
 otCoperas will the leaft ferment it, where! 
 fore by Reafon of the great Damage hereto 
 acaunig to fine Stuffs, 'twould not only 
 be proper but abfolutely neceffary to decide 
 the quantities by Experiments, and when 
 once found, the Dyer ought to regulate 
 himfelf according to that eter after, as our 
 Author has in §. 19?, 194. Upon which we 
 ought to obfervethat the allowed variation 
 of the quantities which he feems tohintat,is 
 not ro beunderltoodof the two above mentio- 
 ned principal Ingredients, butofthelefscon- 
 ifderable, which are ufed to a different end 
 from the former, as the Blew Wood, Sumac, 
 Rodoul, Fovic and Yellow Wood, of which 
 heipeaksf. 189. I remember here what I 
 have faid above, upon the deepning the 
 deepeft Dye of Galls, rhat there were two 
 things to be confidefd, which as foon as one 
 is clear'd, the other manifeftly follows. 
 And without doubt much more might be 
 added, butfome will be apt to fay 'tis iwr 
 poffible to prefcribe the juft proportions ot 
 9 Galls and Vitriol, by thefe or more expe- 
 riments, fo certainly as to pais into a Rule, 
 becaufe of the great difference there is in the 
 goodnefs of the feveral lorts of both Mate- 
 rials, but efpecially of the latter, for whicn 
 

 ore I 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 mv 
 jfwi 
 
 0* 
 on as ■: 
 
 
 nil? 
 
 
 r/;^ Art of Vying. 
 
 ieafon I expreft my felf a little particularly 
 above, viz. (The Galls and Vitriol you rnake 
 the Experiment withal) and farther I own 
 that the difference is ib great, that it would 
 caule a great alteration in the Dyes, and 
 that ib much that it is better to continue in 
 the old way, than in the leaft to found a 
 deciiive prefcription upon this Experiment. 
 Galls are the moft uieful and common 
 Materials in Dying the Black Dye. Sumach 
 tho' notfo frequently ufed, is to be valued 
 forrendring the Dye foft and delicate, which 
 is otherwiie harm and un tradable from thQ 
 Rough and Aftringent Nature of the Vi- 
 triol or Coperas a»iihe Galls : but our Au- 
 thor afcribes this foftning quality to the 
 Blew or Indian Wood, §. 29. and to the 
 Yellow Wood alfo. Verdigreafe is wholly 
 ufelefsand maybe omitted, becaufe it con- 
 tributes nothing to the chief Dye. Alder 
 Bark is not of any great ufe as to giving a 
 n a U . r V kut mixt with Cutlers or Smiths 
 Dull it foftens the harfh Dye, and belides 
 that, it Dyes every thing, and is a right 
 Hair and Silk Dye efpecially to be valued 
 or us foftning quality as above, in which 
 « may be rank'd with Indian Wood and is 
 
 tn°?K m °T?i in t the B ! ew T Dve > ^ich is affiftant 
 jo he Black; this Ingredient it felf is of a 
 Ulour inclining to Black. Smiths Dull 
 
 i tS I"'' "r Ufef ^ but are atte " d *l 
 with the II qualities above mention^ f or 
 
 uta very ill black Dye, viz. To one pound 
 °< fcuft put a handful of Iron filings J 
 
 iiand- 
 
 269 
 
 1 
 
■ 
 
 ijo the Art of Dying 
 
 handful of Alder Bark * The rafpings of 
 Brafil Wood and Vitriol, cf each half 3 
 Pound, Verdigreafe half an Ounce, and of 
 Gum one Ounce, let them boil together half 
 an Hour, then put the Stuff into it and let 
 it continue an hour therein with the Li- 
 quor hot, but not boiling, when it is cool 
 put it in again, and fo repeat the procefs to 
 the third and fourth time. This procefs 
 would be much bettefd if the filings and 
 Verdigreafe were omitted, and the Brafl 
 rafpingsatlealtone halfdiminifhed, andan 
 Ounce or more of Galls added inftead of it, 
 Gum may alfo be omitted and kept till they 
 come to the prefs, wherefore the follow- 
 ing Procefs is much better, viz. R. Galls 
 two Pound, Alder Batk two Pound, Yellow- 
 wood Chips or Saw Duft ilk and half, let it 
 boil three Hours, after which take out the 
 Stuff and ccol it, then add Sal Ar- 
 moniac one Ounce and half, and let it boil 
 one hour, take it out cool and cleanfe it, 
 and you will find it dyed a fine Black- 
 Note in this Dye the quantity of Galls 
 may bediminifhed, and that of Alder Bark 
 cncreafed, or the contrary upon occafion : 
 That the Yellow Wood Chips may be dimi- 
 nifhed, and in the room thereof M£ 
 Wood, or which is better Woadmay* 
 fubftituted. Madder or Brefflaw Red a 
 quarter of a Pound may alfo be added, su- 
 mach is very proper in theftccefe, but its 
 ufualto fubftitutethe intufion ofBlei* £■ « 
 dian Wood in its place : To conclude WW 
 be better to ufe the Blew inftfioninthe^ 
 
*)m 
 
 The Art of Vying. 
 
 Suds inftead of Yellow Wood, or at leaft 
 half of it, becaufe tho 5 the latter throws 
 the DyQ upon the Scuff very well, yet it 
 doth not like the former deepen the Black, 
 as well as fix the Dye upon the Stuff. A 
 Black njay alio be produced from Alder 
 Bark, with the addition of Sumach or Infu- 
 fion of Indian Wood or both together. 3 Tis 
 certainly beft to Dye the Black upon a 
 Blew Ground, and next that upon a Red. 
 The Dyers have feveral ways of Gla2ing 
 Blacks and other Dyes, but that does not 
 beiong to this place, wherefore fo much for 
 the five iimple Colours. 
 
 2jt 
 
 s. 
 
 PART X. 
 
 Of the Grottvd and manner of Dying Black 
 ffe Stvfs vhicb have changed their Co. 
 
 Sri t^Ti??^ andthe proper 
 ft- ft Zr S V$* »hcbar$ to be Mel 
 *»d for mohferving for mixtures, alfo the 
 »«y to over the price of their Dyes, and of 
 thofi of Jh&bt Sutfs, mth the manner of 
 m^g Drugs necejfary to make, ti 
 
 exev. 
 
 A Blew iTvf fimp i e Colours > viz. the 
 tfiew,Red,Yeiiow & Brown mav W™T 
 
 Pared to the four El«,7he fiSt 
 
 the 
 
 
272 
 
 The four 
 firft Colours 
 compared 
 to the 4Ele- 
 tnents and 
 the Black 
 toNight& 
 Death. 
 Black ought 
 to be the 
 end or' all 
 faults in 
 Dyes. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 the Transparent and Lucid, and the laft to 
 the Opacity of the Earth 5 fo Black may be 
 compared to Night and Death, not only be- 
 cauie all other Colours are deepned and bu- 
 ried in the Black Dye, but that as Death 
 puts an end to all Evils of Life, 'tis necef- 
 fary thatthe Black Dye fhould remedy all 
 the Faults of other Colours, which have been 
 occafion'd by the deficiency of the Dyer, or 
 the Dye, or the change of Fafhion according 
 to the times and the Caprice of Men. 
 
 CXCVI. 
 
 Wherefore it is not reafonable nor advan- 
 tagious to the publick, that a Stuff which is 
 rendred unfaleable on the Account of its Dye, 
 fhould remain in the Warehoufe a Prey to 
 Moths and Vermin, when it may eafily be 
 Ibid if Dyed Black. 'Tis therefore necef- 
 iary to permit the Dying of Stuffs of faded 
 or old Fafhioned Colours, Black or darker 
 then their former Colours, and makepro- 
 vifion for their Dying and finifhing in the 
 moft proper manner, for the goodnefs and 
 beauty of the Dye, and the laftingor wear- 
 ing the Stuffs themlelves. 
 
 cxcvif. 
 
 To arrive at this end, 'tis neceffary to 
 Th second confider the firft Ground of the Dye, in 
 Ground order to Dy e and finifti it well in the Second , 
 gilen'iSta! whether "the firft Ground is alone fufficient 
 f ic to the to perfeft the black h for inftance, if the Co- 
 firft. - ' lour 
 
 Out of 
 Falhion Co. 
 l.,uri to be 
 changed 
 why and 
 liow. 
 

 I be Art of Dying; 273 
 
 1 lour or ground be a Pale Blew, it ought 
 to be grounded or prepared to receive the 
 Black Dye or Maddered if the goodnefs of 
 the fluff require it : If it be Red it ought to 
 have the neceflary blew ground $ if it be 
 Yellow it requires a Blew or Blew and Red 
 ground, if the good nefs of the Stuffe re- 
 quires it, in order to produce the Black Dye. 
 
 CXCVIII. 
 
 i StufFesDyed 
 
 If the Stuffe is of a Colour wherein rKe^'St 
 parts of the Walnurt-tree have been u fed ° e £ fi ««5 
 and. t hath been Browned without being nor Slrf 
 boiled care ought to be taken, that the 
 Stuite be not boiled in order to Madder it, 
 
 £?* w "WX of theAilora will har- 
 den the Wool in the Bath, and difpofe them 
 
 ftft n?A raf ° n , ° f the a ™y °f the 
 Jim Dye ; but in this cafe we ouzHr to con- 
 tent o n , ftlves with well Woadh§ tliem £ 
 
 f&f ff£d th , e f*&* thtougl t'wo 
 
 Kftd t o rr ak ^ Uds ' °tfuch°ashave 
 «en uled, to ibften them, and dilchatre is 
 
 much as poffible the hatihnefi Ihelrft 
 
 CXCIX. * 
 
 to 
 
274 
 
 Galling or 
 Preparing 
 with Galls 
 the ituffes 
 which ha\ 
 received 
 Gorrofive 
 Dye. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 to be given to Stuffes which have before 
 received their Dye from Corrofive Ingredi- 
 c ents, and to take particular care that they 
 a be not boiled in Galls or Black Suds, but 
 to the end that they may the better receive 
 their Colour they muft be Dyed cold-, the 
 Galls,Sumach,andMz<m Wood ought to be 
 firft boiled together, and after the Fire un- 
 der the Copper is extinguifh'd, the Stuffes 
 ought to be put in and left to be Galled 
 without any Fire, ftirring them from time 
 to time for the fpace of Ten or Twelve 
 Hours, after which they may be taken out 
 and ventilated whilft the Suds are again 
 heated, then the Stuffes ought to be put in 
 again, managed and remain as long as 
 before. 
 
 Their 
 
 Pye. 
 
 cc. 
 
 r,i ? ck To make the Stuffes Black after they are 
 taken out of the Suds and ventilated, the 
 fame Bath or Suds ought to be heated again, 
 Spur in afreM^Wood which at 
 been boiled apart and left to cool for o 
 four daves,and the Suds being hot enough 
 Xn the Coperas fhould be put in which 
 ought to be left todilTolve very well a^d 
 incorporate with the other Drugs 5 at tt 
 which the Fire fhould be «t.gu jftd or£ 
 
 ty well at the beginning to unite sthe Vj 
 as alfo afterward from time » «melor t 
 fpace of 24 Hours -, after which they jay 
 be taken out and aired , whilft the Batn 
 
k 
 
 
 The Art of Dying. 275 
 
 reheated a little, that they may be put in 
 again, and remain the lame time if not lon- 
 ger. The Suds had much better be too 
 cold than too hot, and Galls and Indian 
 Wood mould by no means be uied too 
 fparingly , that the Stuffes may be rendred 
 ioftter and more pliable : Yellow Wood is 
 alio very good for thefe forts of Blacks. 
 
 CCI. 
 
 Verdigreafe may be ufed in order to Verdi § rea fc 
 make the Indian Wood take the better in 
 the Black ; but if too much be put in, or 
 the Suds be fuffered to boil too much in 
 the reheating, the Stuffes are thereby rend- 
 red ftiff and Gummy. The experienced 
 Dyer may ufe it effectually, and the others 
 may be informed by reading thefe two Ar- 
 ticles, which will both point out the e- 
 vils, and their remedies. Thefe forts of 
 Black Dyes are Galled and Blacken'd bet- 
 ter in a Wooden Fat than a Copper or 
 Caldron which in this cafe ferves only to 
 beil the Drugs, and reheat the Suds. 
 
 CCII". 
 
 ^^ & I^ lmk y make ^ Of thistle Bofb 
 
 expedient to deprive the Stuffes of their Tl koUh < 
 S 7i k l y ?™ mds > and t0 ™ ke * Redyed 
 the f U S S , r 3 ^ P? ed wording 7 
 
 ^^theftuffbwas^?!^; 
 
 2 begun 
 
 f > 
 
 t: 
 
 ■ 
 
276 The Art of Vying. 
 
 begun to be redyed,and thelefler Dyerfhould 
 be obliged alio to leave another of the Co- 
 lour of the good ground which the great 
 Dyer lent to him before it was Galled 
 and Blackned h fo that if this Stuffe 
 hath a little White Rofe Mark it may alfo 
 be left after it hath recieved the Woad and 
 Madder Grounds of the good Dye, for a 
 more ample Juftification of the goodnefs 
 of the ground which was given it. 
 
 CCIII. 
 
 iii aC Dyed s Thofe B lack Stuffes which are feized and 
 h w cured, condemned or fined for not having been re- 
 gularly Dyed, and ordered to be redycd, can - 
 not be Woaded or Madder'd, without a very 
 lenfible injury to them and the Dye, and 
 being once Galled they cannot be regalled 
 without hardning the Stuffes and preventing 
 their well wearing and lafting. 
 
 CCIV. 
 
 But to the end that the Stuffes may be 
 Dyed as fine and good a Black as is pof- 
 iible without injuring them or cheating 
 the Publick, 'twill 'be necelTary to boil a 
 good quantity of Indian Wood three or 
 four Hours long, and having cooled the 
 Suds, to put into them a third part lefs of 
 good beaten Galls than Indian Wood, acid a 
 very little Sumach : reboil it three Hours 
 together, after which having again coold 
 the Bath put in a little Coperas which 
 
 ought 
 

 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 ought to be left to diflblve very well and 
 incorporate with the reft; after wh'ch T 
 moving the Fire from under the Copper" 
 diflblve a little Verdigreafe in the fame S 
 after all which the Stuffes may be Put fn 
 and flmrcd, railed, ventilated,, and 'he Dve 
 
 277 
 
 ccv. 
 
 of Dvfnf Wo'f m hi, l Ssi " the P refent Mnner $&& 
 or uying Wool Black, which injure it hJ *<*** *» 
 
 den ,t hinder its Combing and lender ft ""'• 
 inflex,ble to the Spinner, !nd occafion rh e 
 aTd ft ^l^ rtWiCeaSmUChinthefpinn ^ 
 
 CCV1. 
 
 The Firft is the Walnut tree ground 
 that 1S g,ven to the Dye, which gwes be 
 ginning to thefe ill effects. g "* 
 
 CCVII. 
 
 The fecond is too great quantity of the 
 
 S. ° f addUg W ° 3d Which augments 
 
 3 
 
 CCVIIr. 
 
 
278 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 CCVIII. 
 
 And the Third is, letting it boil too much 
 eh< Galling or Blackning wherein 
 
 no Indian Wood hath been ufed, which 
 makes the Black take better : for this finifhes 
 them. 
 
 CCIX. 
 
 The Proper ways to remedy thofe evils, 
 and to have Wool Dyed in perfection 
 without being hardened by the firft Ground, 
 by the Gallage, or by the tinging Black,are. 
 
 ccx. 
 
 Firft, in lieu of Walnut-tree Ground 
 which 'hardens the Stuffes, the' Woad 
 Ground which foftens the Stuffes, ftould be 
 uied ftronger or weaker in proportion to 
 the fineneis or coarfnefs of the Wool, or the 
 price of the Stuffes in which it is to be 
 ufed. 
 
 CCXI. 
 
 Secondly the Galls ought to be very 
 well boiled, with Sumach, or for want 
 of that with Rahul or Fovic, and after ha- 
 ving put in Indian Wood which hath been 
 boiled apart, the Wools ought to be put in, 
 giving them but a moderate heat, but keep- 
 
The Art of Vying. 27? 
 
 ing them a longtime in the Gall'd Liquor 
 without boiling, becaufe boiling will felt 
 the Wool,after having taken out the Wool 
 and aired it put to the fame Liquor the In- 
 dian Wood with a little Verdigreafe and 
 one third or half lefs thanufaalof Coperas, 
 then put in the Wools again, keeping 
 them a long time in thefe Black Suds, ta- 
 king them out and airing them twice, ta- 
 king care that they have but a very gentle 
 heat, and by this means you will have a 
 very fine fort Black, and the Wool will be 
 rendered flexible, its grain fine,and the flocks 
 and wafte will not in the leaf! be augment- 
 ed. This fort of Black Dye will preferve 
 the Wool and keep the Money in France. 
 
 CCXII. 
 
 Wools defigned for mixture before they fhodTtT" 
 are Dyed the Grounds of the Stuffes, l ™f *J5f, 
 wherein they are defigned to be mixed,need S" c 
 ♦lot have aColour fo lively and bright as that fo 
 of the Stuffes, that the Dye may berendred 
 as cheap as poflible, without prejudicing 
 its goodnefs : Tis neceflary that all Reds 
 of fine ormidling Wools which are ufed 
 to be Dyed with Brafil mould be done 
 with Madder, which Is 4 ot much dearer 
 than the former, which is abaltard Colour. 
 
 ccxin. 
 
 The Violet Dove Colours, Purple, Panfy, 
 Flax bloffom, filver Grey, and fuch like Co- 
 
 T 4 lours 
 
 1 oolj 
 for mix- 
 ture. 
 
 
28o 
 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 lours, #1 f or Mixture accuftomed 
 
 g& ±hdhn Wood and Si 
 
 adding to their reipeaive fbrtmem?S 
 
 Sft^f Indigo, or with 
 t^JIighi Woad and Indigo, then boiled 
 
 w id Tartar ( the Greys but 
 
 half 20 Ioog as the other; and afterwards 
 Cochmealed with the flighter fort or wild 
 Cochineal and .to lower rhePrice yet more- 
 the Suds may be augmented with as 
 ltrong a Madder Ground as they can bear • 
 according to Article 48 of this Infle- 
 ction. 
 
 CCXIV. 
 
 Woad fliould rather be ufed in conjun- 
 ction with Madder than in conjunction 
 with Wild Cochineal in Grey and Walnut 
 tree Dyes, for high priced Wools for Mix- 
 ture, becaufe the reddifh tincture which the 
 Madder gives them will ferve foj 
 an introduction to the Walnut-tree 
 Dye, as well as that the Dye will be as 
 good and cheaper h but if the Colour 
 fhould be Red, a little Wild Cochineal 
 ought to be ufed, to fort the Colours t« 
 their proper Mixture, 
 
 ccxv. 
 
 For Tawntes,DryRofe,Amaranthus and 0- 
 ther the like 'Colours.of the fame Mixtuie, in 
 fin$ or midling Wools for Mixtures * 'tis ne- 
 
 ceUary 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 ceffary to Woad them with both forts of 
 Woadand Indigo, after which they fhould be 
 boiled with Allom andTartar,then Madder'd 
 withgoodMadder, and at laft palled through 
 a Wild CochinealSuds-,iftheGreatDyersre- 
 bate in the Woad,Copper doth not Sufficiently 
 redden the Colour to adjuft it to its fort- 
 ment. 
 
 28l 
 
 CCXVI. 
 
 It is unneceffary to fpeak of the Greys 
 prepared with Galls and Coperas, or the 
 Browns made with the feverai parts of the 
 Walnut tree, becaufe the imali rebate of 
 Madder or Cochineal which the greater 
 Dyer may ufe in his remaining Suds* in 
 order to produce the defired Colours , can- 
 not fenfibly augment the price of 'their 
 Dyes : But all forts of Dyers, Clothiers or 
 Makers of ftuffes, ought to be forbidden 
 the ufe of Lime or quick Afhes in Wall-nut 
 tree Dyes, to redden and augment the 
 Colour of Browns, becaufe it hardens and 
 burns the Wools and ftuffes. 
 
 CCXVII. 
 
 It ought to be lawful for the Greater An y«aw« 
 Dyers who have attained any fecret , orShK 
 particular Method to diminifh the price of ^ rricul «- 
 D yes for fine and midling Wools for maSjfgood. 
 Mixtures, without injuring the Wool or lltiut^ 
 altering rhe goodnefs of the Dye, or im- 
 properly fluting the fortment of Colours, 
 
 to 
 
 I 
 
 
Ooarfe 
 Wool. 
 
 The Art of Vying. 
 
 to makeufe of it after they have made ap- 
 pear of what advantage it is, and obtained 
 permiffion, provided they don't ufe therein 
 
 Indian Wood, Brafil, or Orfeile- or o- 
 
 ther Drugs prohibited in Dying fine or 
 midling Wools for Mixture. 
 
 ccxviir. 
 
 Coarfe Wool or thole ufed in Mixtures 
 of Stuffes not exceeding 30 Sols the El), 
 ought to be Dyed according to the 
 Ground of thole lower prized Stuffes 
 wherein they aie to be mixed, that the 
 Dye may not be too dear 5 but juilly iiiited 
 to their worth: namely all the Greys and 
 Walnuttree Dyes ought to be Dyed with 
 Gall, Cpperas, Walnut-tree root, Indian 
 Wood, and Orfeile, according to Article 74. 
 The Violet, Dove Colours, Purple, Flax 
 and the like Colours , with Woad, Allom 
 Tartar, Wild Cochineal and Madder t, ac- 
 ording to Article 211. T^he Tawnies, Dry 
 Role, and Amaranthus Colours,with Woad, 
 Allom, Tartar, and Madder, according 
 to Article tij. But in ViolctF,Dove Colours 
 Flax and Aramanthus, Tawny, Dry Rofe 
 and the like Colours, in flight Stuffes and 
 fpun Wools of a very low price, to reduce 
 the price yet lower •= Flock or Orfeile 
 Suds may be ufed according to Article 52 
 and 72/ But it doth not follow from 
 hence, that they fhould be ufed in Wools 
 for Mixture, which ought to be Dyed ac- 
 cording to Article 1 1 1 . and 1 n . 
 
 CCXIX. 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 285 
 
 tree Dye. 
 
 CCXIX. 
 
 We ought to be inform'd that by Woad- . The m 9 n - 
 ing, ought to be underitood the ting^ords c 
 ing Wool or Stuffes Blew, and that tho' £ T 9*f**& 
 Woad feems only to be hinted at in the EngaSfng* 
 word, yet the belt Woad 5 flight Woad, and a 
 Indigo raixt together is to be underitood 
 according to the Articles 8. 9. 10. 11. As 
 under the term of Galling or Engalling be- 
 lides Galls, Sumach, Rodoul and Fovic Is 
 comprehended, tho' one is more proper for 
 fome Colours than the other ^ alio under 
 Walnut-tree Dyes only is meant the Dye 
 prepar'd from the Bark and leaves of the 
 tree, and the Nut-fhells, which are three 
 Ingredients proceeding from the fame Tree 
 and all ierving to die Brown Dye. 
 
 ccxx. 
 
 The Proof Suds being the Tryal which Proofsu*. 
 difcovers the goodnefs or falfity of the 
 Dye, as the refining Pot thefineis,do's alloy 
 or bafenefs of Metals, and it being impoi- 
 lible to juftify the Colours before they 
 are prepared, 'tis necelTary in the lalt 
 place, to infert the Proof Suds into this 
 Inftru&ion. To the End that having al- 
 ready been inform'd of Drugs necelTary 
 to the perfecting of Dyes, by the Proof 
 Suds, we may ennabled to pafs a folid 
 Judgement of their goodnefs or falfity. 
 
 CCXIX 
 
 ! 
 
2 8 4 
 
 The An of Dying 
 
 tittle Rofc 
 Marks the 
 cleared 
 Proofs. 
 
 ccxxr. 
 
 , M m $ h the Pr <>of Suds are ufed for th* 
 juftificanon of the Ground of a Black 
 
 S£ft $°? I™? f0 evident "or "a afy 
 as by little Role Marks, the fieht of whirl 
 
 alone fhews the Strength o wea/nS of 
 
 107. £?V 1S P d " Art ' Cle ' 
 
 CCXXII. 
 
 Manner of % 
 
 $£$%&'■ Th | ££?<* Woad Ground well applyed 
 to a Stuffe being finifhed to a Black, loofes 
 nothing in the proof Suds, and the Madder 
 very little, fo that though the dofe may be 
 augmented for the Blew, yet we ought to 
 content our iehes in order to make it uni- 
 lorm, with ufing -iufficient quantity of 
 Starch Water, Allom and Tartar as 
 much of each, as the Black Patterns, 
 whic|i you would prove do weigh. 
 
 CCXXIII. 
 
 This being done, boil the Patterns half an 
 hour in the Starch Water with the above 
 mentioned quantity of Allom, and Tartar, 
 and the Black Patterns which have been 
 Woaded to an Aldego or Pearl Blew, will 
 become Blewifh inclining to the Green 
 Brown or Olive, the Firft darker than the 
 laft: But if they are Woaded and Madder'd, 
 
 one 
 
The Art cf Dying- 
 one will become of a Clove Brown, and 
 the other darker than Princes Colour. 
 
 CCXXIV. 
 
 Thofe Patterns which have been Woaded 
 to the Kings Blew, or Turldjh Blew, being 
 proved in the fame manner, will become 
 of Green, Brown, or Olive Colour h tho' 
 brighter and more inclining to the GrQQn 
 than the abovementioned : out thofe which 
 have only been Woaded to a Sky Colour 
 will turn to a flight fort of Blew enclining 
 to Olive green, and thofe which have had 
 the migmon or faint Blew, will come out 
 of a Goofe-turd Green. 
 
 CCXXV. 
 
 Patterns of Black Stafies neither Woaded 
 norMadder'd, boiled in the fame manner, 
 will not in theleait incline to Green but 
 become of a Colour betwixt Yellow' and 
 orown. 
 
 CCXXVI. 
 
 The Patterns of Black Stuffes which 
 have t,een Woaded, and afterwards Wal- 
 nut-tree Grounded initead ofheingMadder'd 
 being boiled as above, have no reallultreof 
 Ked, but become of a fort ofOlive Colour'd 
 Bear Grey, more or lefs dark or enclining 
 owards a Red according as more or left 
 Woad or Walnut tree hath been ufed h . 
 
 but 
 
 285 
 
 I 
 
286 The Art of Dying. 
 
 but if they have not been Woaded at all but 
 only Walnut-tree Dyed, they will become 
 or a Musk or deep Nutt Colour. 
 
 Malter pie- CCXXVI1. 
 
 <es or pat- 
 tX Sd But becaufe the Patterns may change 
 
 tfctol £ ol T ™ ore or K s l n t ! ie V™ vin & as well 
 by the Strength of the Drugs of the 
 
 Galled Ground, as the black afterwards gi- 
 ven to it, or by the boiling it felf, which 
 may in fbme meafure difenable us to give a 
 perfectly decifive determination concerning 
 the goodnels or Badnefs of the Dye ^ 'tis ne- 
 ceffary for an entire juftification to take one 
 of the Prooves Mafter Pieces, or Patterns 
 out of the Hall, to boil with the iiifpe&ed 
 Pattern, to the end that both being boiled 
 together we may be better enabled tojudge 
 of the goodnels or badnefs of the Dyes, 
 by comparing one with the other. 
 
 CCXXVIH. 
 
 *° n f is not fufficient to make appear by 
 
 thejpper the Proof Bath whether the Woad 
 thftilckt Ground only, or the Woad and Madder 
 Ground be juftly given to Black StufFesby 
 the Great Dyer, if by another Proof Bath 
 we cannot examine, whither they are well 
 Gall'd and Blacken'd with the neceffary 
 Drugs by the Leffer Dyer, according to the 
 proper quantities regulated in §. 193- 
 
 ccxxix 
 
the Art of Dying. 
 
 ccxxix. 
 
 And tho' there is not always occafion for 
 a Proof boiling to examine 5 as well becaule 
 they may be judged by the Eyes and hand- 
 ling the Stuffe, (till comparing them with 
 the Proof Patterns., which have received the 
 fame Ground according to §. 1 94. Ne- 
 vertheless if the Eyes be not fiifficient and 
 the Black is doubtful, a half Proof Bath 
 ought to try them 5 which is made with a 
 fufficient quantity of Srarch Waters, and 
 Allom, and Tartar, half the Weight of the 
 Patterns in queftion, and the Mafter proof 
 Patterns, which ought to be boiled with it 
 for the fpaceof half an hour, to the end 
 that after the boiling they may be compa- 
 red together. 
 
 ccxxx, 
 
 But if this Proof Bath is yet too ftrong > 
 and it difckarges the Black of the Mafter 
 Prool Patterns as well as the other-, it ought 
 to be weakned by retrenching yet one half 
 of the Aliom, and Tartar, and halving the 
 time alfo, boiling it but a quarter of an 
 Hour. 
 
 CCXXXI. 
 
 Blew iftheDye begood never loofes its Co- For L \ c *. 
 lour: it may be proved in the lame manner, 
 and with the fame quantityof Drugs : with the 
 
 % Black 
 
 
 
288 
 
 j°r Crira- 
 fon. 
 
 For other 
 Colours. 
 
 The Art of Dying: 
 
 the Dye was baftardized. ,lgri 
 
 CCXXXIL 
 
 Cochineal not adhering f well to the 
 Stuffe as Blew, the Collurs Dyed V k 
 ? 8 u C £ > foiled with one quarter mr 
 of the Weight of the Patterns,\lom gj 
 
 boil but half a quarter of an Hour. 
 
 CCXXXIII. 
 
 For the examining of all forts of otherCo- 
 lours, to know the Ground, we ought to 
 put m equal quantities of Allom, as well 
 as Tartar, to the weight of the Patterns 
 and to let them boil half an hour h and in 
 all forts of Prooving Baths, the Matter' 
 Proof Pattern ought to be put in to boil 
 together with the other, that by compa- 
 rifon wee may be the better enabled to 
 judge of the goodnefi or falfenefs of the 
 Dye. 
 
 €CXXXIV. 
 
 v But becaufe there are feveral Colours; 
 which tho 5 good, cannot bear the intire 
 boiling examination, 'twill be proper to cut 
 off a little bit of every Pattern, as well as 
 off the Matter Proof Pattern when they 
 have boiled but a quarter of an Hour, 
 
 to 
 
 : 
 
*c3fl 
 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 to compare them together, and if they 
 appear, exaftly alike the remainder of 
 the Patterns may boil the other quarter 
 or an Hour, that by the comparifonof them 
 together,and with the Matter Proof Pattern 
 we may the better judge of the goodnefs or 
 falfity ot the Dye , This method ought to 
 be ufed mall forts of Proof boiling for 
 greater prcaution. ' 
 
 ccxxxv. 
 
 It being not Ids neceflary toexamine,whe- 
 ther maim : and high prized mixt Smffes 
 are ot good Colours, than whither they are 
 
 f S lV ,d broad as the youghrto be. It 
 would be very proper, to prevent the inteili- 
 
 Ki^'V"^ be efoblifhed betwixt 
 rhe Makers, Dyers and Merchants, to falfi- 
 
 fh^ LP 7 ' 5 ° f - Y °° ls for Mixture > that 
 they be,ng carried to the Hall after being 
 
 bre S'h " °lt eT t0 ^t'™ their ^ngth and 
 breadth, the goodnefs or falfity of 
 
 which ?r U r rS c^° uld alf0 be exam '" e d 
 Tpfi f I u peft ! d ma y eafil V be d ™, by 
 l;^- b0ll ' ng0f * P art of the mentioned 
 rhfn i e P nK '- V L Z ' i'f °»m and Tartar 
 it K • f Tr' ght of the Pa »erns,and letting 
 t bod half a quarter of an Hour, but if 
 the Ground of Blacks in the Wool in the 
 Mixture , s to be examined, the weight of 
 the Drugs and time of boiling ftould 
 be doubled : and if the Colours move 
 
 Maker, and tteWori,^/^/^ 
 
 2§y 
 
. 2?o The Art of Dying. 
 
 tuxe^ or Bonne teintepour melange, in French 
 but if they are found .of a baftafd Dye 
 they ought to be handled as other falfe 
 Dyed Stuffes, becaufe they are not lefs 
 prejudical than they. 
 
 Qhfervations on the Tenth Fart. 
 
 *Y He Title of this Par t containsitsjuft Con- 
 tents, vz%. of Redying thofe Stuffs 
 which lye upon the Traders Hands, be- 
 caufe their Dye is either not good, or out of 
 Faftion 5 and afterwards of the proof 
 Boilings, in order to examin the Goodnefs 
 of the Dyes. As for the Redying Stuffes 
 you have §; 195;, the conveniency, i 196, 
 the reafonablenefs, § 197, &c> the ne- 
 ceffary Care to be taken in the perform- 
 ance of the Work, So that I fhaU recom- 
 mend what our Author hath laid to the 
 Memory, Experience and Coniideration of 
 the Ingenious, §. 197, we are infoim'd 
 that if the prefent Colour of the Stuffes, 
 to be RedyM, is not one of the Grounds 
 for Black, viz. Red or Blew, they muft 
 firlt have the proper Grounds beltowed 
 on them, in order to produce a good Black. 
 What is offer'd In §. 198. concerning Stuffs, 
 which have before received a harfh and 
 rough Dye, as Walnut tree Brown, ought 
 to be very well obferv'd, What follows, 
 €. 199. being Inftruftions concerning the 
 Redying of thofe Stuffs before Dyed with 
 corrofive Materials, is not only, advantage- 
 ous, but abfolutely neceffary to be consi- 
 dered, and what Rules are afterward given 
 5 for 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 for the Dying of Wool, to f. 220. are 
 veryjuft, but what follows wants explana- 
 tion in order to a thorough Knowledge of 
 them. The Author alTerts £.230. that the 
 proof boiling difcharges the Black Dye, 
 if the fait Materials be ufed in too great 
 a quantity, or the Matter proof Patterns 
 too long boiled, or if there beanexcefs in 
 both the quantity and operation; 'tis not 
 here to be underftood that the Black Co- 
 lour in its whole Subitance is attracted by 
 the proof Suds, fothat the Stuff fliould re- 
 main white, but that its Colour is hereby 
 changed, as§. 226. we are told they will 
 change to a Colour betwixt Yellow and 
 Brown : by $. 222. we are informed that the 
 proof boilings prove the Blewunchangable, 
 which is confirmed in §. 251. nor is the 
 Madder Red much damaged or changed by 
 the proof Suds-, from all which we may de- 
 duce the Fundamental Reafons of the 
 Proof Suds, if we confider, Firft, That 
 the proof boiling turns the Colour to a 
 Brown Yellow, if the Black have had no o- • 
 ther Ground than its own Dye : Secondly 
 on the other fide if it hath had aBlew Ground 
 the proof changes the Pattern to an Olive 
 Green, and it is very well known that Yel- 
 low and Blew produce a Green, which may 
 be turn'd to Olive Colour, by mixing it 
 With Brown. Thirdly, If the "Mailer Pat- 
 % terns have had both the Woad and Madder 
 Ground, they will change ro a Yellowifh 
 Brown which may be produced by mixing 
 Blew and Red, as §. 49. we are informed 
 the Minime or deep^ Tawny, and a light- 
 
 V 2 er 
 
 291 
 
 
2p2 The Artof Dying. 
 
 er Colour call'd Princes Colour, remain 
 after trie proof according to §< 223. 'Twill 
 not 1 hope be labour loll to inculcate the 
 Authors two Qbiervations concerning boil- 
 ing Proofs, the firft that the Role Marks 
 are more certain indications of the Dye as 
 ni\22i. Secondly, That as in S. 227. The 
 Matter Pattern fhould be put Into the 
 proof boiling, with the other Patterns, that 
 by comparifon we may be enabled to make 
 a better Judgments than by fight alone can 
 ever be made. 
 
 PART. XL 
 
 Of the Dying of Threap and Cloth made of 
 Hemp, Flax cr Gotten, with whatever is 
 neceffary to the perfe&ion of Silk Dying, 
 and the making and Dying of Hats. 
 
 CCXXXVI. 
 
 Thred. nr He General Rules of Augvft the* 13th 
 -*- 1669, being extenlive enough, and ha- 
 ving fufficiently provided for the Dying of 
 Thread and Linnens, whether made of 
 Flax, Hemp or Cotton, 'twill be unneces- 
 sary to (peak of it here \ but though the 
 fame General Rules, and a very particular 
 as well as ufeful and judicious inftru&ion, 
 ( afterwards drawn up,)' how to Dye Silk 
 a light Black, and to prevent the common 
 Surcharge of Galis ufed in Silks $ an abufe 
 
 very 
 
 N. 
 
Tor raw silk 
 
 The Art of Dying. 2^3 
 
 very prejudicial to the Publick, ieen to ^ d iilk - 
 have given the laft fooke to good Silk- 
 Dyings it will be ntverthelefs yet neceffary 
 to prelerve the mutual truft and juftice of 
 Commerce, and to caufe us t true 
 
 value upon Silks of good G and a Mark ne- 
 
 fincethe {lighter Colours often fi and "htcrim. 
 are more beautiful and bright, than the lb;l Dye., 
 true Crimfons, 'tis neceflarv ( 1 &y, ) they 
 mould be diftinguifh'd bv'Vbme Mark, to 
 prevent the publick from "being defrauded . 
 
 CCXXXVII. 
 
 In order to which it would be neceffary 
 to forbid all forts of Merchants or Silk- 
 men co fell, expoVQ to faie, or diftrihute 
 any raw Silk for Crimfon, which fbefides 
 the ordinary Mark, ) is not marked at the 
 End of the skain, or at the Ribbon that 
 hangs at the end, with a lead containing 
 on one fide the fellersName,andon the other 
 Cramoify i. e. Crimfon, with the Name or 
 Cypher of the Town, where it was Dyed, 
 that if the Silk be ill Dyed, the Buyer may 
 haverecourfe to the Merchant tbat'fold it; 
 and as to the Merchants having remedy of 
 the Dyer, he ought to take care as foon as 
 the Silk comes out of the Dye-houle, that 
 it be Viewed, Examined, and Marked in 
 the Court or Hall appointed to this pur- 
 pofe. 
 
 
 C( XXXVIII, 
 
 V 3 
 
2$ »4 The Art of tying. 
 
 CCXXXVfll. 
 
 Silk Stuffes . j . „ jj 
 
 And a precaution with refpeft to Silk 
 ftuffes being no lefs neceffary, fince the 
 Alining luftre of an ill Dye, caufes it often 
 to be preferred to a good one, through the 
 ignorance of thofe who buy it for wearing^ 
 'twill be farther neceffary to forbid allMer- 
 cers,Weavers,and Silk ManufaQurers,to fell, 
 expofe to fale or diftribute any Silk Stuffes 
 for Crimfon, which are not alfo befides the 
 ordinary Mark, firlt market at one or both 
 ends ( if the piece is to becutt) with a 
 leaden Mark, containing on one fide, the 
 Name of the Merchant that gave the 
 Silk to be Wove into Stuffe, and on the o- 
 the Word, Cramoify I. e. Crimfon, with the 
 name or Cypher of the Town, where it 
 was madeytothe end, that if the Stuffe be 
 not of right CrimfbnColoiir, the buyer may 
 have his remedy againft the Dealer, who 
 caufed it to be made" and fold it. 
 
 CCXXXIX. 
 
 pale Blew. And becaufe the Pale BlewV are more 
 beautiful, and don't fo much encliqe to 
 Green, or Grey, when they are Dyed in a 
 Woad Fat or Copper, as when they are 
 Dyed in the Indigo Copper, according to 
 <S. 10. it will be iieceflSfry to leave the Silk- 
 Dyers to their liberty, whether, they will 
 Dye their Fale Blew's, in the Great Cloth 
 Dyers Copper, ( paying them for it ) ?r 
 
The Art of Dyi?ig. 
 
 in their own Indigo Coppers, as they (hail 
 judge it proper, with refpetl to the Mix- 
 tures of their Colours. 
 
 29s 
 
 CCXL 
 
 It being neceflary that the Dying of 3 hS" 3 
 Hatts, fhould be as good as that ofStuffes, ™t\^ 
 it very well deierves a regulation, efpecially 
 the Black for Hatts of value, which the 
 Hatters at prefent Dye fo flightly, that 
 the Colour will not laft one third part of 
 the Wearing,* without turning of a Tawny 
 or Black Grey, to the great difadvantage 
 of the confumer, who is obliged to buy two 
 or three Hatts,where one would be fufficient 
 if wellDyed} and this is the caufe that twice 
 as much Money is expended, in the buy- 
 ing of Lambs Wool, Oftrtch Down or 
 Hair, Camels Hair, Peruvian Sheeps Wool 
 and other Foreign Commodities , of 
 which all fine Hatts are made- which draws The hi-d>- 
 feveral confiderablefummes of Money outof "**?[ "*" 
 the Kingdom ^ when the good Dying of the fending 
 Hatts, would at leaft keep one half of the $£Sri« 
 Money in the Kingdom, and ofconlequence of money 
 lower the price of thofe Commodities in France. 
 the places which produce them. 
 
 CCXLI. 
 
 Before we attempt to fix the well Dying Genenl 
 of Hatts, 'twill be necefTary to view and me.hods 
 examine with the Hatters, upon the fpor, tcvae 
 the Commodities,and inconvenienciesof the 
 
 V a. Countries 
 
 ■ 
 
 14 
 
296 The i Art of Dying 
 
 Countries, The Hairs 5 the Wools, and 
 Lambs Wools, which are there produced 
 the Herbs, Roots, Drugs, and ingredients 
 which grow there, and which may be very 
 ufeful, as well to the making as Dving and 
 better wearing of Hatts , the laws 'and 
 orders of every Town 5 in order to reduce 
 the Manufa&ures .of Hatts to the utmoft 
 perFe&ion, and caufe a value to be fett 
 upon French Hatts, and a demand for them 
 in Forreign Countries, where the bad Dying 
 or ill making hath at prefent ruined the 
 trade in them : and upon this examination 
 and a report of it, a General Rule may be 
 made for the future, which fhould be as a 
 taw" to all theHat-makers in the Kingdom, 
 and tend very much to their Advantage 
 and the publick good. 
 
 * CCXLIJ. 
 
 But becaufe it is neceflary in the mean 
 while, to put a ftop to the prefent Courle 
 of Ill-dying of Hatts, and to dilcover and 
 correct the abufes, and at the fame time 
 inftruft the Hat-makers that are igno- 
 rant of the Drugs neceflary to, and the 
 manner of Dying a Good Black, which is 
 the Colour moft in ufe, and moft impor- 
 tant in Hats J and it being farther neceflary 
 to affift them by thefe helps to make a corn- 
 pleat difcovery of what may yet be defici- 
 ent in that Manufacture, that it may be 
 eftabiifhed throughout the Realty we 
 
 ought to be informed 3 
 *. CCXLIU. 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 297 
 
 CCXLIII. 
 
 That to Dye a Hat (made either of Wool of the good 
 or Hair ) of a good Black Colour, 'tis ne- Elack Dye * 
 ceffary to Gall it very ftrongly, with Alep- 
 po or Alexandrian Galls, and a very little rtrft Kiack. 
 Indian Wood, and let it be very long Gall- 
 ing, that the Dye may the better penetrate 
 the felt, and after that in the fame Bath 
 to give it a very good Black, with a fuffi- 
 cient quantity of Indian Wood, Coperas 
 and a little Verdigreafe, letting them con- 
 tinue long enough in the Dye, that it may 
 penetrate the Deeper. But the laft menti- 
 oned Indian Wood ought to be boiled a- 
 part before, and fet cooling at lealf 3 or 
 four dayes before the ufing. The quantity 
 of Galls and Indian Wood ought to be 
 augmented in proportion as the Hatts or 
 Hair, more eafily or hardly imbibes the 
 Tjn&ure. 
 
 CCXLIV. 
 
 And a fmall time after, a New Bath of SS d 
 clean Water ought to be prepared, in 
 which ought to be put in cold, a fufficient 
 quantity of Indian Wood, and a little Yel- 
 low Wood} boiling them together for 
 three hours, and when it is cold enough, a 
 furhcient quantity of beaten Galls mould 
 be added, which muft be boiled three 
 hours longer with the Indian and Yellow 
 Woods j after which put in the Coperas, 
 
 and 
 
 ■ 
 
2p8 
 
 Third 
 Black. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 and then the Hatts and the Bath being a 
 little cooled, a little Verdigreafe fhould be 
 diffolved in it, to make the Indian Wood 
 take the better, and the Hatts ought to be 
 left a long time in this fecond Black, that 
 the Dye may fufficiently enter them. 
 
 CCXLV. 
 
 But if the Hatts are of a price, and the 
 Hair difficult to take the Black Dye, we 
 cfught to give them a third Black, which 
 muft be prepared the fame .ivay as the fe- 
 cond, in the precedent Article h with this 
 difference, that in the the Third the quan- 
 tity of Ingredients may be augmented crdi- 
 minifhed, as occafion or the goodnefs of 
 the defigned Dye requires $ and if the lu- 
 fter of the Hat glances toward the Blew, 
 a little more Yellow Wood fhould be ad- 
 ded-, as if it inclines to the Red , the Yel- 
 low Wood fhould be retrenched, and the 
 Indian Wood as well as the other Drugs, 
 fhould be augmented, according as the one 
 hath prevailed over the other in the two 
 former Blacks. 
 
 CCXLVL 
 
 The Hatts being wellrinced and cleansed 
 from the black, you may yet abate their 
 BlewifhLuftre,if occafion requires,and fotten 
 them with a flight Bath of Yellow Wood, 
 which being naturally a little Gummy ,wi 
 have a very good effeft upon the Hat, 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 if it be either of fine Wool or Hair. 
 
 CCXLVII. 
 
 *99 
 
 As low prized Hatts made of Courle c urfe 
 Wool may be fufficiently Dyed in the firjt IX^tt 
 Black, provided they are well Galled and oneeiack, 
 Blacked and a Efficient quantity of Sumach SftV^' 
 or Rodoul and Fovic be uled, and the quan- lhrec - 
 tity of Coperas be augmented without di- 
 qiijiiflling the reft : the midling forts of 
 Hatts cannot be fufficiently Dyed without 
 two blacks, any more than the fineft, and 
 the molt difficult to receive the Dye, can 
 be Uniiked. without three, as fpecified above 
 in the § 245:. 
 
 CCXLVIII 
 
 As the fineft Hatts and the midling fort, Jcbath|f n 
 maybe rebated and foftned with Yellow 
 Wood j fo thole made of Courle Wool ha- 
 ving no need of a rebate of the Blewifh 
 or Reddifh Tin&ure , by reafon of the 
 Sumach or Rodoul and Fovic, as well as the 
 larger quantity of Coperas uled to Dye 
 them, yet may be foftned with a flight 
 Bath ofSpanip Broom, if the Hatter would 
 not rather pals them through a Yellow 
 Wood Bath, after the fine or midling Hatts 
 have extracted its fubftantial Virtue, 
 which is not abfolutly neceffary for the re- 
 bate of low prized Hatts. 
 
 CCXLIX. 
 
goo 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Woad for 
 Hats. 
 
 CCXLIX. 
 
 But tho 5 Black cannot be Dyed to the Iaft 
 perfedion either in Wool or Hair without 
 Woad, the Hatters have quite left off 
 their accuftomed ufe of it in the Dying 
 of Hatts, and believe at the fame time, that 
 too ftrong a Black makes the Hairs or Nap 
 fall off, which is very neceffary for the fale 
 and beauty of the Hatts, though this rather 
 proceeds from the hand of the Workman that 
 dreffes them than inDyfng them,or the Hairs 
 not being fufficiently fulled, or ftrongly 
 enough united to the felt- for a good 
 Black well applyed never produces this 
 ill effeft, but on the contrary contri- 
 butes very much to the fale and as much 
 to the well wearing as the Hair of the Hat. 
 
 CCL. 
 
 N$w to remove this obftacle, and 
 to Dye Hatts in perfection, 'twould 
 be necelTary to oblige all Hatters to caufe 
 all their Wools or Hairs to be Woaded ac- 
 cording to their goodnefs, before they are 
 ufed in the making of Hatts, becaufe the 
 Blew very much covers and diipofes the 
 Wool and Hairs the better to receive the 
 Black, tho 5 they are not obliged to allow fo 
 ftrong a Dye to courfe and midling Hatts, 
 preferving the laft for the flneft fort only 
 where the Hair doth not receive the Colour 
 foeafi!y:all which obferved, the price of 
 
 Dying 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 Dying a Courfe Hat will not be above 3 
 pence, and the fineft not above 5: pence. 
 
 ecu. 
 
 It will be proper in order to the putting 
 a ltop t6 the courfe of ill Dying of Hats 
 and at the lame time to have them perfe&ly 
 well Dyed and made, ftriftly to forbid all 
 Mafter Hat Makers to cut off the brims of 
 their Hats, orexpofethem to fale before 
 they are mark'd withtheirMark on theinfide 
 and viewed and examined by the War- 
 dens or Jury of Hatters, who finding them 
 regularly good, fhould be obliged to ex preis 
 their approbation by a Mark on one fide 
 
 mi S 3 , the maker > but if the y fi nd them 
 ill-Dyed they fhould be obliged to feize 
 them, and caufe them to be conhTcated by 
 the Judges ofManufaaures, and a fine to be 
 laid upon the Hatters who have caufed 
 them to be ill Dyed. 
 
 CCLII. 
 
 And if a Hat be found to be ill Dyed 
 tho' it hath the Marks of both the Hatter 
 and the Warden, it would be necefTary that 
 ™ f ^ ler foould be obliged to make good 
 the Damage to the buyer, and have his 
 remedy as well againft the Hatter that made 
 it as ^gainft the Warden that marked it 
 and caufe them to be fined befides, to ob- 
 lige them to take particular care that thev 
 don t mark Hats which are ill Dyed. 
 
 CCLIII- 
 
 3d 
 
 
 
 m 
 
3<>2 The Art of Dying. 
 
 CCLIIL 
 
 ffitobf" But that the Examination of the Dying 
 kept in the ot Hatts, may be made with lome fort of 
 3aii. crs certainty , every Corporation or Company of 
 Hatters fhould be obliged in each Town 
 or City, to Dye two, tour, or fix Hat-felts 
 more or lefs, according as the Company 
 fhall judge neceflary, of every lort of Wool, 
 or Hair, of which Hatts are made in that 
 Town, of the three feveral forts of Black 
 abovementioned, to be kept in their Halls, to 
 fervefor Mafter-pieces or Patterns to have 
 recourfe to, the better to enable them to 
 judge, of the good or ill Dying of Hatts, 
 
 CCLIV. 
 
 u And if 'tis impoflible to judge of the 
 £g°forthe" goodnelsof the Dye of thole Hatts to be 
 
 wHam ^ exam * ne< * at fi§ nt ^ % comparing them with 
 the Mafter Patterns, the Wardens or Jury 
 who have the right of Marking, ought to 
 take a little piece of the Mafter felt, 
 which is made of the fame Wool and Dyed 
 the fame Colour with thofe they would ex- 
 amine, and another which they may cut off 
 the brim of the Hat in queftion, fo that it 
 doth not -prejudice the Hat, or fpoilits 
 ioundnefs,andT boil them together, withjuft 
 as much Allom and Tartar, as the weight 
 of the Patterns- for half an Hour, after 
 which procefs they may determine by com- 
 panion, concerning the faults which may 
 be committed in the Dye. CCLV* 
 
I 
 
 The Art of Dying, 
 
 CCLV. 
 
 And tho' this Examination is not capable 
 of the utmoft certainty, yet it being the 
 moft exacT: oY any yet known, it will be 
 fufficient to put a flop to this Evil, and to 
 diftinguifh by the mark, the good and well 
 Dyed Hats, from thofe which fhall be bad 
 or ill made : But 'tis alio neceffary, that 
 the name bf the Town, and a particular 
 Cypher for every Year, fhould be contain- 
 ed in the Wardens mark, which fhould al- 
 io be printed in the Companies Book, that 
 an Aftion may lye againft thole who fhall 
 commit any abule of the mark 5 and in the 
 Hatters Mark aifo his name fhould be let 
 in fliort, that every thing relating hereto, 
 may be well known and clearly diftinguifh- 
 
 ^Annotations on Part XI. 
 
 'J'His Part containing nothing of the Art 
 of Dying, but what relates to its ap- 
 plication to Hats, and in §. 240, theCaafes 
 of the writing of ir^ namely, the fcanda- 
 lous abufes crept into it by the Fraud of 
 Hat-makers and Sellers : 3 Tis worth confi- 
 dering whether the lame complaint may not 
 juftly be made in our own Country • and 
 whether confequently our Authors Advice be 
 not as neceffary as plain and extenfive, and 
 indeed needs no explication. 
 
 PART. 
 
 303 
 
 
304 The Aft of Dying, 
 
 p ART. XII. 
 
 The Advantage which will accrue to the nub- 
 hckbythe Ufe, Cultur* and Sale of the 
 good Drugs, which may be produced in 
 r ranee. 
 
 I 
 
 Good Drugs 
 roduced in 
 ranee ne- 
 ccflary to 
 produce 
 good Co- 
 lours. 
 
 cclvi, 
 
 IT being impoflible to produce good Co- 
 lours without good Drugs, and France 
 being capable of furniftiing the belt, if its 
 fertility was feconded by our Labour and 
 Induftry : : Tis neceflary after having taught 
 the manner of preparing good Dyes, to lay 
 down proper means which may contribute 
 to the Trade of thole good Drugs which 
 France is capable of producing, that our 
 People may apply themfelves to the Cul- 
 ture of them, and reap thofe Advantages 
 thereby, which ftrangers and our own blind 
 ftupidity have deprived us of from the be- 
 ginning of this Century. : 
 
 CCLVII. 
 
 rrugs fer- The Drugs which grow in France ar£ the 
 Dy^g°of he beft and llighter fort of Woad for Blew, 
 Chermes Berries and Madder for Red h 
 Spanijly Broom, Sarrette and GeniftroUe for 
 Yellow^ The Root and Bark of the Walnnt- 
 tree, and the Nutfliel, for Brown, which 
 may be otherwife called altogether Walnut- 
 tree 
 
 "W ools, 
 whi«h grow 
 in France, 
 
— 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 tree Colour Rodoul, Fovic, and Co- 
 
 peras for the Black A Horn, and Tartar for 
 the boiling or Suds. We have alio Verdi- 
 greafe, common Salt, Lime, boiled Afhes 
 and Pot-afhes, Tartar Afhes, and the molt 
 of thole Ingredients, which in themfelves 
 afford no Colour ^ befide which, we have 
 alio the Caffenelle or Galls which grow up- 
 on fome ^ Oaks 5 Alder-bark, Fujtel, Mal- 
 herbe, Trentjnelle and Garouilh Orfeille 5 
 which are Ingredients, the life whereof may- 
 be permitted in fome Towns, Stuffs and 
 Colours ; as before Ipecirled in this Inltrucf- 
 ion. 
 
 305 
 
 CCLVIII. 
 
 > Though no Country in Europe is fo well 
 dilpofed to the production of Drugs ne- 
 ceiTary for Dying as France, yet neverthe- 
 lefs the Culture and Preparation of them 
 hath been fo neglected, that at prefent there 
 are very few in this Kingdom skilful enough 
 to know their Defecfs, or the way of re- 
 eltablifhing the good Culture of them, in 
 order to give them the fame Strength, Sub- 
 ltance and Goodneis which they were ufed 
 to abound with, when the Culture of them 
 was equal to their Confumption h all which 
 requires, that fome room in this InltrucV 
 ron Ihould betaken up by the infertion of 
 fome Methods of knowing them, and pre- 
 venting theit Sophiltication ; but that we 
 may proceed with fome fort of Method, 
 'twill be very proper to begin withWoad' 
 
 •X 
 
%o6 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 it being the moft profitable^ moft neceflary 
 and belt Drug uied in Dying. ' 
 
 CCLIX. 
 
 Of Woad. 
 
 Woad is produced from a Seed fowii 
 annually about the beginning of March 
 hath ieveral Leaves like thofe of Plantain \ 
 it grows in Lavguedoc, in the Diocefs of 7b' 
 hfe, S. Paoul, Mirepaix, La-bant and Alby j 
 all under the Jurifdiftion of the Parliament 
 
 croitbT of Tolo f e ' ll y' ldds four Cro P s eve ^y Year 
 year. which are good, and tho 5 the fif-ft is often 
 
 better than the fecond, the fecond better 
 
 than the third, and the third than the 
 
 fourth, the contraty fometimes happens 
 
 when the fpring is too wet and rainy at the 
 
 , time of gathering, and the other Seafons 
 
 fall out more Temperate, Warmer and 
 
 Dryer h too great humidity rendring the 
 
 Leaves of Woad larger and thicker,and dimi- 
 
 nifhinglts Strength and Subftance. This 
 
 Plant may alfo be cultivated in ieveral other 
 
 Provinces of France^ as may be ^m by the 
 
 flighter fort of it, which grows in Nor- 
 
 mavdy^ which is really a Species of the 
 
 fame. 
 
 CCLX. 
 
 Befides thefe four good Crops; lbme 
 The fifth or Husbandmen get a fifth and fometimes a 
 Maroucb'ms fixth, commonly called Marouchins 
 
 Wimes And tho , the fifth be i5metimes found m . 
 
 fonably good, when the Autumn is hot and 
 
 dry * 
 
\ } 
 
 The Art of Dying. jo 7 
 
 dry •, the fixth is never good for any thing, 
 or at beft but very little, the Sun being then The j^ h 
 too low to ripen the Leaves and give it the a ° tSJ ° ' 
 aecelTary Strengch and Subftance. 
 
 CCLXL 
 
 There is fcarce one peafint in thefe fotiirwoadopffht 
 pioceffes that doth not know when Wodd^ d . weIt 
 is ripe, and when 'tis necelTary to gather 
 it. But fome may perhaps be ignorant 
 why the Leaf is 'fometimes fuffer'd to 
 Wither before it is brought to the Wheel 
 to be ground-, which is only to ripen it 
 more, and evaporate a part of its Oleagi- 
 nous Juice, which would fpoil the good- 
 nefs of the Woad: It is alio left in the 
 Mill-trough eight or ten Days, after it hath 
 been ground very well, flopping the Vents 
 and Crevifes daily made for its Hrimidity 
 to drop away. 
 
 CCLXII. 
 
 After which, .it is made into little 
 Loaves, which are called toes or Cocaigttes, ?£?£ 
 which they lay to dry in the. (hade upon 
 Hurdles appointed to that end, near every 
 Mill 5 from whence they are at laft taken 
 to lay up in a Store or Ware-houfe, till the 
 owner is pleated to Pulverize them, 
 which is commonly done in January, Fe- 
 bruary or March. 
 
 X 
 
 ccLxm 
 
3o 8 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 CCLXIIL 
 
 The Woad being broken or thrafhed with 
 preparation wooden Clubs, muft be moiftened with 
 p wdi d in ^ an ^^ n S Water, which, provided it is not 
 Foul or Muddy, is always belt $ and after 
 3 tis well wetted and mingled, in order that 
 it may equally imbibe the Water ^ then it 
 ought to be ftirred at leait thirty fix or 
 forty times in the fpace of four Months to 
 prevent its growing hot, and that the Water 
 may equally penetrate it, after which, 'tis 
 fit to be made into Balls, and ufed in Dy- 
 ing •, tho' 'twere better to allow it a little 
 more Age before it beufed. For good Woad 
 always augments in Strength and Sub- 
 ftance, and if kept fix or feven, nay ten 
 Years, it grows better. 
 
 Pit to make 
 into Balls. 
 
 Old Woad 
 more lub- 
 itantial 
 than New. 
 
 CCLXIV. 
 
 In order to produce good Woad, the 
 mean P s roper Seafon of the Year and Weather ought to 
 
 tribSeto" be § 00ci and P r0 P er : V^ Q ^ arth mU ^ ^ e 
 
 ther^n- well Cultivated, and howed or cleanled 
 wo-fd [trong from Weeds $ as muft the Woad it felf. al- 
 and fubtran- f . Light Earth will never produce it, but 
 the fatteft and midling Lands yields the 
 ftrongeft and belt Woad, which yields the 
 rnoft Colour, but the mixture of the one 
 with the other agrees very well, and bet- 
 ters the Crop. 
 
 GCLXV. 
 
 tial. 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 3° 9 
 
 CCLXV. 
 
 5 Tis impoffible to have good Woad, if of good 
 we do notfow good Seed h bur that we^S 1 
 may always have the beft, we 6nghttobe hav : e * he 
 informed, that there are two forts of Woad 
 whofe Seeds are very much alike, tho' their 
 Leavesare different : The good Woad hath 
 clofe plain Leaves without any downy- 
 Hair, and the other, which is a baitard 
 Woad, affords a downy or hairy Lea£ fb 
 that to have good Seed, care ought to be 
 taken in Weeding the Woad, that all the 
 baftard Woad be plucked up and thrown 
 away, not being fuffered to be near that 
 which is to be kept for Seed 5 which by 
 this means you may have pure and un- 
 mixed. 
 
 CCLXVI. 
 
 But if Rainy Weather caufes, the good 
 Woad to degenerate to the Baftard or Wild 
 fort, as it turns Wheat to Tares 5 inhowing 
 the Weeds particular care mult be taken 
 that the good that is left be cleared from 
 this fort 5 by eradicating the bad, which 
 otherwife will eat up the Subftance of the 
 good, and by weakning it, quite fpoil it ^ 
 and the Earth being loaded with theie hai- 
 ry Leaves very much hinders the goodneis 
 of the Woad. 
 
 X * 
 
 
 CCLXVII 
 
310 
 
 The Art of Vyhg. 
 
 CCLXVII. 
 
 or e o^er eds Part i cu l a r ca *e ought to be taken not to 
 Herbs very gather Woad with Dew upon it $ nor to mix 
 
 to e woad a . 1 anv other Herbs a mongft its Leaves : for 
 nothing is really more contrary to its Nature, 
 or can do it more hurt ^ becaufe othej; 
 Leaves yielding no Colour., attraft that of 
 the Woad, and coniequently weaken it ve- 
 ry much, as well as leflen its Subftance. 
 
 Pirft Crops 
 
 bett. 
 
 CCLXVIIL 
 
 Tho 3 the three firft Crops are commonly 
 the beft, and that Woad prepared by a 
 mixture of thefe three, is always beft ^ 
 'tis neverthelefs neceffary, that thole who 
 gather four Crops only fhould mix them, 
 altogether, becaufe 'tis impoffible ro pre- 
 pare the laft well alone, there not being 
 enough to make a heap fufficient to give it 
 a proper heat. 
 
 CCLXIX. 
 
 But thofe who gather five Crops in a 
 
 when five Year, when they have been favour'd with 
 
 gaTK the fine Weather, ought to make a feparate heap 
 
 ^ t a f be of their fourth and fifth Crops mixt toge* 
 
 milcdtoge- ther, which ought to be ibid for theflighter 
 
 theff fort of Woad, without fuffering it to be 
 
 mixed with the Balls of that of the three 
 
 other Crops •, that the Dyer may ufe them 
 
 alone or together according as it fuits his 
 
 con- 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 convenience, without being cheated In the 
 buying of it. But the fixth Crop ought to 
 be abfolutely forbidden, becaufe it often 
 lerves only to eat up the Subftance of the 
 other. 
 
 311 
 
 CCLXX. 
 
 The want of Confumption hath been the 
 caafe why the Culture of Woad has been 
 left off: And the Inhabitants of the four^° f cI _ 
 DioceiTes employing their Lands in lowing on°, n t h^ pCl * 
 great Millet or Hirfe and Tobacco, theie S£5 £& 
 two plants, which fpread their Staulks fl ^d. 
 like little Trees, and yield a prodigious *£££ 
 quantity of large Grains or very large *t cco h ' 1 ™p°- 
 Leaves, have fo exhaufted the moifture and errand 
 Subitance of the Land, that indeed it^&^j"^ 
 prefent there is not vigour left fufficient tot*** 
 produce a Woad fhong enough to yield its £f t# 
 accuftomed quantity of Colour, as former- 
 ly, when the Lands were not impoverished 
 by the mentioned two plants (and that thev 
 are is vifible from the poor Crops of Corn,'.) 
 on the contrary, the proper Culture of the 
 Earth for Woad, renders the Lands abun- 
 dantly more fertile and rich, for which 
 reafon, the upper Languedocis efteemedthe 
 belt Laqd in the World. 
 
 CCLXXI. 
 
 Tho' the great fertility of the land of w^ j 
 upper Languedoc, and the profit which ac- %JSil£L 
 crues to the Inhabitants by the Culture and ' 
 
 X 4 De- 
 
312 The Artof Dying. 
 
 ' Demand ofW oad, hath juftly fixed the 
 
 SSSS Name of .Cocaigne Larids }which t 
 Millet ruins *& name given to Woad before it is reduced 
 L * nd - to Powder) and made that Country thehap- 
 pieft and richeft in Europe : 'Tis to be fear- 
 ed that having loft its Advantages and Rich- 
 es for want of a demand for its Woad, it 
 will for a long time at leaft loofe its ferti- 
 lity,* if the evil be not fpeedily remedied 
 by preventing the Culture of fo large quan- 
 tities of Millet and Tobacco, which will 
 utterly exhauft the Subftance of their 
 Lands $ there two Plants being very im- 
 proper to be cultivated in large quantities 
 any where, befides the Indies^ where they 
 have land enough in referve, to let it reft 
 after they have gather'd their Millet and 
 Tobacco. 
 
 General 
 
 caufes of 
 
 cclxxii. 
 
 The weaknefs and fliaht Subftance of 
 Woad at prelent is owing to its want of 
 weakning & p r0 per Culture, negligence in its prepara- 
 wckd. 8 f tion, the little Care that is taken to iepa- 
 rate the Leaves from thofe of the wild Wo- 
 ad and other Weeds, and the inconliderate 
 mixture of the firft Crop with the latter, 
 to the lowing Woad where we have gathe- 
 red Millet or Tobacco, to the fmall quar- 
 tity of W oad that is produced, (for every one 
 prepares it according to his own humour, 
 ajid his heap being too little to prelent its 
 heat, it cools and dryes, which occalions 
 the lofs of the greateft part of its Sub- 
 ftance, 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 itance)and to this that for want of great heaps 
 the making of prooves hy which its good- 
 nefi is known, is neglefted. 
 
 3*3 
 
 CCLXXII1. 
 
 Befides thefe Evils which proceed from r , , 
 the faults in the Culture, or curing, there™ E?S££ 
 another which is the Source and Encourager I? p, ' 30 ' ( '-' 
 of the former, and which is owing to the "hvw 
 Ignorance or ill Defigns of fome Dvers- is "' ut s ood - 
 who to engrofs to themfelves in prejudice 
 of their Brethren, all the Profits and Ad 
 vantage^ (which ffiould come in common 
 to the Dyers of the place) occafioned hy 
 
 ■?-°u- of L Woad ' which ^y fell or 
 which is there fold , they fifei it to 'pa f s 
 
 ■ghter than it ought, by agreement be! 
 
 twixt the buyer and feller, one deceiving 
 
 theother, and both defrauding thePublick 
 
 the Woad pafs for better than it really is. 
 
 CCLXXIV. 
 
 As the Buyers are cheated by thefe frau 
 (talent Attentions, which caufe them to The sdl "- 
 
 So ftlMr d K a r er - than J tS W ° rth ' andthofer^KSl 
 whoiellit believing that the Deceit thevi"^ 
 
 JvnVf' if th made ic better ^an they SSfe 
 expefted: This reciprocal Cheat, when 
 
 he Buyers d.fcover ir, makes them a fraS 
 to buy any more of a Commodity in which 
 
 hey cannot deal without log, and which 
 they can be no otherwife infbrm'd of its 
 
 good- 
 
 
 
 
314 Fhe Art of Dying. 
 
 goodnefs, than by the proof, which they 
 will no longer rely upon h after they have 
 found the Atteltations falfe, and on the 0^ 
 ther fide, the Sellers continue to f alfifie or 
 mix their Woad, hoping by Corruption to 
 find Dyers, who fhall ftili give it a falfe 
 Atteftation, when being fruftrated in their 
 expectation, their Woad is decryed and 
 flicks upon their Hands, they not being a- 
 ble to fell it. 
 
 CCLXXV. 
 
 If the Proofs and Atteltations were 
 
 True Attcft- njade according to the Method prefcribed 
 
 arions would by the old Orders, this abufe would neve? 
 
 Scabu- have grown to the pitch it now is •, andln- 
 
 fcs - digo would never have been fb much uied 
 
 as 'tis at prefent in Dying, for every Man 
 
 being inform'd by the Proof and true Au 
 
 teftation of the goodnels of Woad, they 
 
 would always endeavour to better it, fince 
 
 the price being proportioned to itsgoodnefs, 
 
 would always encourage thern fo to do •, 
 
 and by this means finding its Faults, they 
 
 would be enabled to Correft them for the 
 
 future. 
 
 CCLXXVL 
 
 Thonhc Tho 5 good Seed, good Husbandry, pro, 
 w3f b 4 P^ Culture and preparation as well as 
 Swasoneoffine Weather, augment or dimimlh the 
 Strength and Subftance of Woad h They 
 never alter the Colour, which is always 
 
 good 
 
 iv.es. 
 
^_ 
 
 -- 
 
 The Art of Dying. 3 1 5 
 
 good and thebeft and moil neceffary Ingre- 
 dient for Dying, fince 'tis ufed in the Com- 
 pofition of moft Dyes, which can neither 
 be rendred good or lafting without it ; 
 and indeed deferves our more particular 
 Reflexion. 
 
 GCLXXVIL 
 
 nr- 
 
 3 Tis not fufficient only that we inftruft fSKuS 
 thole who are ignorant in Husbandry, the ceflkry to 
 Culture, and preparation neceffary to pro- %™X 
 duce good Woad, and to give it the moft 
 Strength and Vigour poffible, as well as re- 
 efhblifh its Commerce ^ But we ought to 
 ftrike at the Root of the Evil, and put a 
 flop to the fatal courfe of Cheating and 
 Fraudulence. Now to fucceed well in 
 both, thefe feveral things are neceffary. 
 
 CCLXXVIII. 
 
 Firft, That the Officer which (hall be lent fty°&™ f ' 
 by the Surintendant of the Manual Arts, fcmbiy 0* 
 Commerce and Manufactures of France, J^Smsta- 
 mould in the moft convenient Town of that tute ? con - 
 Country, call together an Affembly of the wSS? 
 moft intilligent Perfons, which the Corpo- 
 rations of each Dioceis of the four together 
 fhall depute, who in conjunction with him 
 fhouldin this Affembly prepare Statutes and 
 general Orders for the Husbanding, Culture, 
 Preparing, Prooves, Weights, Sale and juft 
 uling of Woad 5 for the feparation of the 
 latt Crops, the preient value of Livres, 
 
 which 
 
 
 
316 
 
 Ipfpe&ors 
 and their 
 Functions. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 which are in this cafe as Carrats to Gold 
 and Silver, to adjuftthe goodnefsof Woad 
 upon what Foot it fhould be eftablifhed, 
 the feveral Marks, Bails, according to the 
 Crops or Degrees of goodnefs ^ for the E- 
 ftablifhment ' of Infpe&ors in every Corpo-* 
 ration or Parifh, to regulate the Mills and 
 all things in general, which they fhall find 
 neceflary to be reformed : Which Statutes 
 being prepared and figned by the Officer 
 and the Deputies, or Magiftrates of the 
 Place, fhould be lent to the Superintendant 
 of Manufactures, in order to be view- 
 ed, confirmed, correfted or approved h af- 
 ter which, they fhould lerve as a ftanding 
 Rule or Law. 
 
 CCLXXIX. 
 
 Secondly, That two Infpeaors or fupra- 
 vifors more or lefs (according as the place 
 is great or Imall) fhould be chofen out of 
 the molt undemanding Men thereabouts, 
 who ought to be renewed every three Year 
 in the beginning of January, and fhould 
 be obliged every fifteen Days, or oftner it 
 neceffary, to vifit all the precina depending 
 upon that Corporation or Parifh, in order 
 to put the Statutes in execution : And it 
 they find any thing contrary to thole Laws, 
 they fhould draw up a report and the M^ 
 giftrates of the place, with the affiftance ot 
 the Commiflary to judge of it, if he hap- 
 pen to be near (they being obliged to call 
 him to their affiftance) before they proceed to 
 
 con* 
 
The An of Dying. %\j 
 
 condemnation, to the end that all things 
 may be regularly managed, and not hurried 
 on by Revenge or Spleen. 
 
 CCLXXX. 
 
 The faid Supravifors mould keep a Regi- 
 fter of all the Woad deliver'd, Crop by 
 Crop, what is fold, thrafhed or beaten in 
 their defhifts, as well as the Woad in 
 Powder, which is prepared and fold. Of all 
 which they fhould give a general Account 
 every Year at the beginning of December, 
 to the Officer appointed to receive it by the 
 Surintendant. 
 
 CCLXXXI. 
 
 In the third place, 'twill »be neceflary Account f 
 that the Owners or Farmers of Mills Woad ™-° 
 fliould keep an Account of what Woad is ground ' 
 brought to their refpe&ive Mills to be 
 ground, Crop by Crop, of which they 
 mould be obliged to deliver a particular to 
 the Supravifors every Month, whofhall be 
 obliged to infert it in thejr Regifter, in or- 
 der to be delivered to the CommilTarv as 
 above. '* 
 
 CCLXXXII. 
 
 Fourthly, That the Jury of Dyers mall 
 be obliged to keep an Account of all the p egi ? erof 
 Proofs of Woad, which themfelves as well 
 as other Maiter Dyers have made, with the 
 
 Day 
 
 
 
 
 
ais 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Pay of the Month when they were don^ 
 the Name of the Dyer who performed the 
 Operation, and who it was made for, the 
 owner of the Woad, and the adjudged de- 
 gree of goodneft -, and that the Dyer who 
 made the Effay as well as the Jury of Dy- 
 ers fhould be obliged to fign their names, un- 
 der the Article of every May in order that 
 extrafts may be delivered tothe Buyers and 
 Sellers, and any others to whom it ihall be 
 neceffary; 
 
 CCLXXXIlt. 
 
 The fame ought to be pra&ifed, with 
 refpeft to the Weighers and Packers, or 
 makers up of the Bales of Woad, who 
 fhould alfo be obliged to keep a particular 
 of all the Woad, which they Weigh or 
 Pack, the date, its goodnels, the Buyer and 
 Sellers name, the mark of the Bales, and 
 the Places, Shops or Ware-houfes, where 
 they weighed or made up the faid Bales. 
 Which Accounts they as well as the fworn 
 Dyers fhall be obliged to deliver the State 
 off Annually in the beginning of December 
 to the Deputy of the Surintendant. 
 
 CCLXXXIV. 
 
 In the fifth place, Experience having 
 
 ££& convinced us that thro; the careleffnefs or the 
 
 a ncgieft ok Ignorance of moft People in thofe things 
 
 &l Pub - which belong to the publick good: That 
 
 Envy, Intereft or Compliance frequent- 
 
 Hegiiter of 
 Weighers 
 and Puck- 
 ers. 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 ly caufe them to be (lighted and negle&ed 
 at firft, as not worth the thought, which 
 is confirmed in Woad, the want of a De- 
 mand of which alone hath been the Occa- 
 fion that upper Lcmguedoc hath loft above 
 forty Millions of Livres fince the begin- 
 ning of this Age^ which hath only hap- 
 pened by the negleft or Ignorance of pro- 
 per means to prevent it, iince our Kings, 
 their Councel, the Parliaments, and States 
 of the Province of Lcmguedoc have never 
 been wanting in publifhing Ediftsand Or- 
 dinances to favour the Confumption of 
 Woad,and prevent the ufe of Forreign Indigo 
 in France h but all thefe have been ineffe&ual 
 for want of the means mentioned in this In- 
 ft ru&ion. 
 
 319 
 
 CCLXXXV. 
 
 It plainly appears that the Indigo which 
 the Spaniards^ Geiiovefe, Englifi and Hol- 
 landers have vended in France, hath hindred Ncgicft of 
 the fale and confumption of our own Wo- o^ad"" 
 ad ^ but we will not be perfivaded that bathamm- 
 negligence in the Culture, and preparing it, |S3? t ? the 
 natn contributed as much as the former, to »»asFordg« 
 ruin the Trade of it : And tho 1 the lait E- Ind,s °' 
 vil is but an efTecl of the firft, yet ? tis im- 
 poffible to remedy them both, without u- 
 fing fuch means as are proper for the one 
 as well as the other, contained in this In- 
 ftru£tion : Nor can we otherwife adjuft the 
 Interefts of upper Lcmguedoc and the Eaft- 
 India Company, than by permitting the ufe 
 
 of 
 
32 
 
 rv 
 
 By Foreign 
 Indigo, our 
 Author 
 means that 
 nor impor- 
 ed by the 
 French Eaft 
 India Com- 
 pa'ny. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 of fix Pounds of Indigo to every Ball 
 of Woad, and ftrongly reiterating the pro* 
 hibitionsofthe life of Foreign Indigo^ which 
 will reduce the Indigo impofed by the French 
 Baft-India Company and Woad to about an 
 equal confumption, and will be fufficient 
 for all forts of Dyers, which will be made 
 good by their mixture ^ which would be 
 impoffible if the ule of Foreign Indigo be 
 allowed, becaufe our Woad being uled in 
 lefs quantity, will not be able to correct 
 the French Indigo and the abundance of 
 Foreign Indigo, which is continually ufed 
 in vaft quantities and baftardize .two thirds 
 'of our Colours, ruins our Trade, and theufe 
 of French Indigo as well as Woad. 
 
 CCLXXXVL 
 
 Wherefore it feems neceflary that the 
 a commit Surintendant of Manufactures fliould de- 
 ia - ry & wh fik " P ute an ^ffi cer or Commiflary on thefe oe- 
 ry> W y * cafions, that hath capacity and judgment 
 enough to execute his Orders faithfully, 
 and by virtue of them to call together the 
 Affemblies of Dioceffes, in order to draw 
 up Statutes and Orders, and to caufe them 
 to be ratified afterwards by the Royal Coun- 
 cil of Trade, that they may be put m Ex- 
 ecution throughout the four Diocefles, 
 and other places, where it (hall be found 
 aeceffary : And he fhould personally vilit 
 the places, to fee whether the Supravifors, 
 Dvers, Millers, Weighers, Backers and 
 
 other Perfons difcharge their Offices duly, 
 
 ana 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 and to fceep a general Regifter of all the 
 Woad, which is gathered, fold and ufed 
 in the four Diocefles annually j and laftly, 
 to have a general infpe&ion over all that 
 fhall be judged neceiTary for improveing 
 the Culture, Preparation, life and Con- 
 fumption ot^ Woad. 
 
 CCLXXXVII. 
 
 3*1 
 
 il 
 
 Voiiede or flight Woad, being a fbttvouedeor 
 which grows in Normandy^ but much lhcfli ? ht 
 weaker and Icis : Substantial than the^ ** 
 better fort of Woad, by realon of the po- 
 verty of the Soil and want of heat, where 
 it is produced, which hinders the ferment- 
 ing and ripening, neceflary to give it the 
 Strength and Subltance to be found in the 
 above-mentioned firit Crops, for which 
 reafbn, 'tis as weak and poor as the lafl 
 Crops of Langiiedoc The Culture of this 
 is exaQly the fame with the former, becaufe 
 they are both of the fame Species, where- 
 fore 'twill be unnecelTary. to dwell upon It ^ 
 we'll only obferve that the land being cold, 
 the Woad very feeble, and the Crop 
 very fmall, ir ought to be but little moift- 
 ened, and as much as pofhble ufed in con- 
 junction with the better fort, that it may 
 partake of the Siibftance of the latter, be- 
 caufe other wife it wiil be impoi 1 - heat 
 it, or ufe above a Pound of Indigo to a 
 hundred weight of W ; without Baftar- 
 dizing the Dyes, or looling time and Woad 
 in endeavouring to heat it. 
 
 Y CCLXXXVII! 
 
 W 
 
 I 
 
322 
 
 The Art of Dying* 
 
 cultivated 
 noritsPeo 
 pie cm- 
 ploy'd. 
 
 CCLXXXVIII. 
 
 3 Tis impoffible to fee the fertility of 
 France Yer- France, and to fee at the fame time fuch at 
 die, and full great number of idle unprofitable Wretches 
 Sf Mtwei) ftand with folded Arms, whilft they might 
 be ufefully employed in the tilling of the 
 Land, and other profitable /ufes, which 
 kind nature Offers to them ; to fee them, 
 I fay,live at the expence of others iweat and 
 blood, without blaming the civil condu& 
 and negligence of the old French, and 
 their Application to ufelefs employments, 
 and being ufed to puff up themfelves 
 with Wind and Smoak, which produced 
 Whirlwinds and Tempefts, which have 
 hazzarded the overturning of the State by 
 civil Wars. 
 
 CCLXXXIX. 
 
 What I have been faying is clearly con- 
 Madder firmed by the Root of Madder, which the 
 tT4 y te b d e in Ul " Earth fpontaneoufly produces in moft 
 fcveraipia- of the Provinces of France, maugre 
 fraiL the flight and negligence of the French, 
 Is it pofiible to fee this our tender Mother 
 fo liberally difplay and difperfe her gene- 
 rous productions and Riches (to rouie us 
 out of the Lazy Sleep of Idlenefs, and ex- 
 cite her Children to Work) without cent- 
 ring the blindnefs and Stupidity of our 
 Nation, thatfufTers it felf to be drained of 
 
 its Manev, to purchafe thefe Commodi- 
 ties 
 
&p 
 
 The Art of Vying. 323 
 
 ties of Strangers, which they might ga- 
 ther at home in abundance. 
 
 ccxc. 
 
 * 
 
 . Fromallwhich'tisatprefentthotehthiffh-*, , 
 
 1 /^lii • -Fj^ ° F? More than 
 
 ly reaionable by our civil Government,to elta- 500000 u- 
 blifh theCuItureof Madder, the purchafe SS?" 
 or which Commodity, yearly exports a bove ro bu y M ^-< 
 five hundred thou land Livres h 'tis then in- dcr ' 
 ferted in this Inftru&ion, that the French 
 may grow wifer, and learn to cultivate it 
 in France and the French Flanders, and by 
 this means furnifli Spain, Italy, and other 
 Neighbouring Countries which want 
 it. 
 
 I 
 
 
 CCXCI. 
 
 Madder is a Root which grows Sponta- 
 neoufly in molt places of the Kingdom, 
 but carefully cultivated in Flanders and 
 Zealand, and the belt is to be found about 
 Lip • and tho' this Root is very profita- 
 ble, yet 'tis very eafily cultivated and mana- 
 ged, and will be contented with an indifte- 
 rent Soil, and is moft plentifully produced 
 fa Land moderately moift, fuch as drained 
 Fens, rather than in too dry Grounds h 
 tho' 'tis alio neceifary to take care that the 
 Water do not continue or (land upon the 
 Land, becaufe it putrihes the Madder, and 
 renders its Culture wholly infignificant. 
 
 y 2 ecxcni 
 
 Of Madder. 
 
 
 ■ 
 
324 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Its Culture. 
 
 CCXCII. 
 
 Thofe Lands defigned to fow Madder 
 ought to be deep ploughed, and very well 
 dunged before Winter. Thofe Grounds 
 which are a little Sandy, and have been ve- 
 ry deep ploughed remaining more hollow, 
 contribute beft to the Madders taking and 
 encreafing its Root, for which reafon, they 
 are more proper than more retaining 
 and claiy Grounds, which prefs the Root 
 too dole and hinder its growth, as well as 
 too dry Lands, for want of moiiture. 
 
 CCXCIIL 
 
 After the Earth is well prepared, Mad- 
 ?£w w «<f- der is commonly fown reaionably thick in 
 >"g "• Marcbjn the wane of the Moon, Harrowing 
 or raking the Ground to render it more fo- 
 lid and the better to eradicate the Weeds 
 of which 'tis very neceflary it mould be 
 very well cleanfed, eipecially at the begin- 
 ning that they may not dram the Subltance 
 of the Earth, and mix their Roots with 
 thofe of theMadder, which will fpoil its 
 Growth: And tho' Madder being grown 
 pretty large attraas fo large a fhareof 
 San that "it prevents the Earth's throwing 
 oJf'a great quantity of Weeds yet th,s 
 ought not to lave us the Labour of keeping 
 the Ground perfectly free from them : But 
 as the Weeds ought at firftto be plucked 
 up by the Roots with the Hand, for fear 
 of eradicating the tender Madder with the 
 other, it may be done with proper how- 
 ing Inftruments when the Madder hath 
 
The Art of Dying. 3*5 
 
 taken deep Root, and is grown larger, 
 
 CCXCIV. 
 
 The Madder Root ought to be very The fir ft 
 large before it is plucked up, or gathered, crop o»ght 
 •which ought to be done in lefs than i8ti,credi8 
 Months after it is ibwn * The gathering of J^££. 
 the largeft is generally begun in September \a. 
 cutting the Leaves of that which you leave 
 in the Earth, for when you gather that 
 which is ripe you ought to leave thofe Roots 
 which are not ripe in the Ground and cove- 
 ring them with Earth, fuffer'em to grow till 
 the next September following, when you 
 may again gather the largeft, and fo con- 
 fecutively for the fpace of Eight or Ten **£*£. 
 Years -, during which time your Madder ally tor 
 Ground will continue, well itored either Ten *<* f5- 
 with Roots left to grow larger, or thofe 
 which remain deep in the Earth, or thofe 
 formed of the Fibres or from the fmall re- 
 maining parts of Roots which have been 
 plucked up : but after the expiration of 
 that- Term of Years, the Madder fhould be 
 fowed in other frefh Lands, the old Ground 
 being no longer fit to produce it 5 and Mad- 
 der as well as Woad, is endowed with the By its goo d 
 excellent quality, of clearing the Land of culturc ' 
 Weeds, and confequently rendring it more It Fru<\;f- 
 fertii and proper to fow Corn in, of which « lheLaiC - 
 it will then yield extraordinary plentiful 
 Crops. Madder is fo eafily produced, that 
 its very Stalks laid in the Earth will take 
 Root, and ferve to replenifh a Madder 
 
 Y 3 Ground 
 
32<? 
 
 Madder : 
 Grounds 
 planted 
 with the 
 plant its 
 felf. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Ground, that is almoft cleared of its 
 Root. t 
 
 ccxev. 
 
 The New Madder field may be cultiva- 
 ted by gathering all the fmall and imma- 
 ture Roors of the Old one and Tranfplant- 
 ing them into the new, as is pra&ifed io 
 young Onions and Leeks, the Land being 
 firft well tilled : This practice will very 
 much advance the Madder Ground, becaufe 
 the Root being already fbmewhat Grown^ 
 will the more eafily take in the frefh 
 Ground. ; 
 
 CCXCVI. 
 
 Madder af- The Madder Root of Flanders and Zea- 
 rer 'us Und^ after its grown fufficiently Large and 
 
 put into 
 backs. 
 
 grounded Ripe, is gathered and laid a drying in the 
 
 Sun, or in very warm Land in the fhade,after 
 
 which the better to preferve its Subftance and 
 
 Colour ,1]: muft be ground toPowder in aMill, 
 
 in order to be well packed in double Sacks, 
 
 to prevent its flying out, and there it is kept 
 
 for ufe. The frefheft Madder produces 
 
 the brighteft Dye h that of a Year old 
 
 yields more Colour, but that which is too 
 
 oldloofingits Colour loofes alfo its Vivacity, 
 
 and as it fades it renders thQ Dye very 
 
 faint. 
 
 CCXCVI!. 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 3*7 
 
 ecxcvii. 
 
 But as this way of cultivating Madder, 
 is rather the refult of the curious experi- perfo«and 
 
 ments, which have been made for diverfion, pkces pro- 
 and to try whether it waspoffible to produce culture!" 
 it in France^ than of a nice culture defign- 
 ed for profit 5 and that thofe who plant 
 it may every Day difcover new and more 
 Advantageous ways, as well of cultivating 
 as preparing it for ufe : It would he necel^ 
 iary that the CommiiTary mould fearch 
 for the People moftftrongly bent to this 
 ibrt of Husbandry,and the lands molt proper 
 for it ^ in which cafe, he mould above all 
 choofe thole places where the Seed is cheap- 
 eft, or the Lands are Until led, in order to 
 oblige the Inhabitants to Till them, and re- 
 ceive the Profit which Madder improvement 
 would yield them ^ to which purpofe, the 
 CommiiTary fhould prevail upon two, or 
 three, or more of the moft skilful Hu£ 
 bandmen living near Vljle^ to come and 
 teach the Inhabitants their Method of im- 
 proveing Madder, and to work themielves 
 in the cultivating it, in the places cholen by 
 the Officer. 
 
 CCXCVIII. 
 
 There is a fort of Madder which For- FalllfieJ 
 reigners fel us, under the Name of Billon de Madder 
 Garance^ which often is only a Ibrt Red fo&iddw. * 
 Earth, mixed with Madder Dull, or the 
 
 Y 4 re 
 
 
 
328 
 
 Of ^ptn'ijh 
 Broom. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 refule of that which hath been once ufed 
 in their own Country, which is indeed a ve- 
 ry- pernitious cheat, hecaufe this lorry Stuff 
 is generally put off in Barter for other 
 Commodities, and in thefe forts of exchanges 
 the Traders believe 5 is allowable to cheat 
 one another, contrary to the reciprocal 
 jultice of Commerce, and to the great pre- 
 judice of the Dyers, whom they oblige to 
 take thistrafh in payment for their Dying 5 
 and the pablick is hereby impofed on by 
 baitard Dyes, which ipoil the Stuffs ^ for 
 this pretended Madder affords no Colour, 
 and only ferves to rot the Wool by its 
 earthy Parts flicking clofe to it. Where- 
 fore 'twould be highly reafonable to prohi- 
 bit this trafh, and to caufe it to be ieized 
 and conflfcated,with the farther punifhment 
 of a Fine., and not to fuffer any that is not 
 of a juft goodnels to come into France^ 
 which purfuant thereunto fhould be viewed 
 by the Officers to fee if the Marks of the 
 Sacks or Bails be right. 
 
 CCXCIX. 
 
 Spanilh Broom is a plant which grows 
 fpontaneoufly, or is cultivated, in almoft 
 ail the Provinces of France h it fhould be 
 fowed very thin in light Earth, in March and 
 September, and being w«U howed and clean- 
 fed from Weeds, 'twill be ripe the June or 
 %ly following: In cold Countries it ought 
 to be dryed after it is gathered, but m hot 
 places 'tis commonly gathered dry enough 5 
 
The Art of Vying. 3 29 
 
 but particular care ought t@ be taken, that 
 ir be not any ways moi lined after 'tis ga- 
 thered, as well as that it be not gathered 
 before 'tis thorough ripe. The lelTer fort en- 
 ciining to Red, is more Subftantial, and 
 better then the large, which is of a kind of 
 faded Green Colour 5 But that which in- 
 clines to Black, or is become mufty by be- 
 ing wetted or gathered too Green, is the 
 worft of all, and produces a faint worthlefs 
 Colour. All the Provinces of France be- 
 ing well acquainted with the culture of 
 this plant, I need IT iy- no more concerning it. 
 
 ccc. 
 
 As there are very few Provinces in France, 
 where Walnut-trees are not very common, B aJk,i?aT«$ 
 io chere are hardly any Husbandmen who °£ t . h t J e ^'. al " 
 don't know that the Root, Leaves and Bark Se'wafaS 
 of the Tree, and the fliells of the Fruit are lhdl -- 
 ufed in Dying, and that conlequently they 
 can have Money for them of the Dyers ; 
 'tis only necefTary to inform them, that the 
 Root is only good in Winter, when all the 
 Sap of the Tree is retired into it $ the Bark 
 when the Tree is in full Sap, the leaf 
 when the Nuns are not perfectly formed, 
 and the Nutt (hells, when the Nutts are 
 in their Green ihells, and when the Kernel 
 is good to Eat. To preferve the Dye con- 
 tained in them a long while, they ought to 
 be put into a Copper or Tub filled with 
 Water, from whence they ought not to be 
 taken till they are to be ufed in Dying. 
 
 ' ccci. 
 
33o 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 ccq. 
 
 Vermillion, Scarlate grain or Chermes 
 of chermes Berries, is the Alchermes of which the A- 
 Berries. pothecaries make that fine compofition 
 which they call Confeftion of Alchermes. 
 It is a berry that grows Naturally upon 
 a certain Species ofHolmtrees (fometimes 
 called the Scarlate Oak) in the Wild and 
 Barren places of Provence^ Languedoc and 
 Roujfdhn^ having no occafion for Culture, 
 but growing fpontaneoufly, 'twou'd be unne- 
 ceflary to fay much of it, only to hint that 
 it ought not to be gathered till perfectly 
 ripe, becaufe then it renders its Colour beft - y 
 and that it may be abundantly gathered, we 
 ought to caule its conlumption by ufeing it 
 in our Dyes according to this Inftru&ion, 
 
 CCCIL 
 
 Of.the Aq- 
 tient Pur- 
 ple. 
 
 The Antients not having difcovered th»* 
 lecret of our Chermes Berries or Vermilion, 
 to Dye their Wools or Stuffs, ufed the 
 Blood of a fort of Oyfter or Fifh, to Dye 
 their Scarlate or Purple, the fineft fort of 
 which was prepared in Phoenicia^ that being 
 the Coaft which moft abounded with Oy- 
 fters, and where this Dye was firft difcover- 
 ed by the following accident h a Dog hav- 
 ing eaten fome of thefe Fifh tinged his 
 hairy Skin of a beautiful Purple or Scar- 
 late with their Blood. This Dye became 
 
 fo clear and highly efteemed, that Kingv 
 
 and 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 and Emperors only wore it, and that in 
 little bands, as a mark of their Sove- 
 reignty. 
 
 331 
 
 
 CCCIII. #■ 
 
 But after the fecret was difcovered of Frr , 
 producing a finer Purple or Scarlate at a ia£ bettct 
 much cheaper rate, with our Berries or Ver- ande^pur 
 million, than with the Blood of the Fifli h 1™.™ " 
 the latter grew fo obfolete,that at prefent'tis 
 not known fo much as what fort of Oyfter 
 or Fifh yielded that beautiful Dye, which 
 would pals in thefe Days for an indifferent 
 Colour, no ways to be compared to that of 
 our Chermes Berries. 
 
 ccciv. 
 
 But as the Antient Tb&mcian Purple gave 
 way to our Scarlate, whofe Colour is much ££«?£" 
 cheaper and finer, fo our French Scarlate fpoc. 
 is almoft grown obfolete by the Inconftan- 
 cy and Levity of our Nation, and is forced 
 to make room for the Dutch Scarlate, a 
 New invented Dye, which hath more 
 Luftre, but lefs folidity. Atfirft it took very 
 much in France^ after which the People 
 being perfwaded that both were given to 
 fpot and ftain, they turned them both out 
 of Fafhioh, by which means the fale ofa- 
 bundance of our bed Cloaths was fpoiled, 
 which had been dyed of this rich Colour' 
 which the chief of the Nobility were ac- 
 cuitomed to wear, or at lealt always to 
 
 have 
 
 
332 The Art of Dying. 
 
 have Cloaks of it, a Fafhion more magni- 
 ficent and finer than that of Chamblet 
 Cloaks at prefent, which are moil of them 
 made in Foreign Countries, and are leg 
 Gentile as well as dearer, not to mention 
 that they are not fo Jaftii i6 as the others. 
 
 cccv. 
 
 Howtaefta- To eftablifh the Advantagious Manu- 
 w scar- fafture of Cloaths, and to premote the 
 confumption of Vermillion or Chermes 
 Berries, 'twill be neceflary to re-eftablifh 
 the wearing of Scarlate Cloath amongft 
 People of Quality, and the Gentlemen of 
 the Army : 'Tis a Colour fo Auguft that 
 it feems the moll proper to diftinguifh Peo- 
 ple of Condition and high Polls, and the 
 Cloath is hy the Dye the better preferved 
 from Rainy and ill Weather, than by any 
 other, whilft Foreign Chamblets fray and 
 rent, not being able to endure half the ill 
 Weather as the former. 
 
 late. 
 
 CCCVI. 
 
 Sarrette and Genijtrolle^ being two plants 
 
 which grow fpontaneoufly : Rodoul ' 
 
 and Fovic being Leaves of fmall 
 
 Shrubs which are not cultivated, 'tis there- 
 fore unnecefTary to fpeak of either of them * 
 the moll ignorant Perlbn in the World, 
 who lives where they grow, knowing very 
 wd\^ that they are ufeful in Dying. 
 
 CCCVll 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 333 
 
 CCCVIL 
 
 We ought only to obferve that as well 
 Sarrette and Genijlrolle, as Rodoul and Fo- 
 vk, that is defign'd to be kept any time, 
 ought to be very ripe before it is gathered j 
 but that which you would ufe immediate- 
 ly, it is not of Importance whether it be 
 io or no. 
 
 CCCVIIL 
 
 Moft People know that Tartar proceeds of Tartar 
 from Wine Lees, that Verdigreafe is made verdigreafe 
 of Copper and Grapes which have paiTed ^' 5^" 
 the Wine prefs ^ that the Afhes ufed in Tartar Afb- 
 Woading are reboi led Allies-, and that burnt cs ' 
 Tartar is the Lees of Wine burnt. We 
 ought only to obferve that Wine Lees is to 
 be had in all France, and that burnt Tartar 
 is a very neceffary ingredient in Dying in 
 all the Provinces of France, wherefore 
 'twould be proper to eftablifh in two or 
 three Towns in each Province, Perfbns 
 who Underltand that Procefs, that the Dy- 
 ers may not be obliged to go far to buy it, 
 and to encourage thefe People with a fort of 
 Priviledge for fix or twelve Years. 
 
 CCCIX. 
 
 Nature which hath fo well difpofed 
 France for the produQion of Vegetables 5** 
 Droner for Dving, hath not been lefi Libe- £i*fc« 
 F V ' raP 
 
r 
 
 334 ?te A rt °f tying- 
 
 hi to her in Mineral Salts ufeful ifi the 
 fame Art h fhe has beftowed upon her Allom 
 and Vitriol, which are found in feveral 
 parts of the Pyrenmn Hills, and various 
 Other places in the Kingdom, as well as fe- 
 veral other Minerals, which we go in 
 queft of to Forreign Countries. If fom£ 
 Trench Men would be as earneft infearch of 
 them, or as juft in rewarding difcoverers, as 
 they are greedy in attributing the honour 
 of it to themfelves, and unjuitly tifurping 
 the reward, they might eafily be found. 
 
 cccx. 
 
 A&vityof "The Aftivity of the French Tempera- 
 the French ment, which renders them very improper 
 d?i" ove^Vor fas long as the fire lafts^) to make any new 
 l p Ki" ded difcoveries, or apply themfelves vigoroufly 
 to a labour which they believe will continue 
 a long time, bends their inclinations very 
 forcibly to purfue the defigns which others 
 have began, and reap the Fruit which they 
 have not fown ^ but fometimes finding their 
 defired Crop not ib near as they expefted, 
 or defiring to reap it alone, they grafp at 
 more than they can manage, but foon quit 
 their defigns, and as much as they are able 
 hinder others from continuing them, which 
 is the true reafon why no Body ventures at 
 difcovering, nor labours in the Mines in the 
 Kingdom * wherefore we are obliged to 
 buy at a very dear rate of Strangers, 
 what our own Country would abound in if 
 improved. 
 
 labours. 
 

 The Art of Dying. 
 
 335 
 
 CCCXI. 
 
 Tho' the Allom proceeding from the Py- 
 ren&an Mines on the French fide is falter, of Frencb 
 which renders it leg fit for Dying than that Aiio^T* 
 of Rome, or Civha Veccbia, nevertheleis as 
 the excellence of th« latter may be owing 
 to their way of curing or preparing of it, 
 by which they do as it were purify it from 
 all the difagreeable quaiities of the Mine 
 which may adhere to it h 'tis alfo proba- 
 ble, that if Workmen were brought from 
 thence to purify our own Allom the fame 
 way, it would be better at leait than it is, 
 if not as good or better than that which 
 comes to us from feveral parts of Europe, 
 where the Natives know better how to 
 Husband Natures Benefits than we do : If 
 this were tryed, 'twould keep a great deal 
 of our Money at home. 
 
 CCCXII. 
 
 The Vitriol dug out of the Mines at the 
 bottom of the Pyren&es on the French fide, v - -. 
 being fatter and more Claiy than that which 
 comes from Flanders, Liege or England, 
 may perhaps difcourage thofe who would 
 attempt the working of our Mines, if they 
 are not informed rhat our Mines not being 
 fufticiently opened or dug any farther than 
 the Surface, where the Mineral naturally 
 Cbnrracls faults of its neighbouring tarth 
 which in conjunction with the Vitriol forms a 
 
 Cruft 
 
out 
 Mine. 
 
 336 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Cruft compofed of one and the other i 
 when 'tis indeed more than probable that if 
 , we dug deeper into the Body of the Mine, 
 we fliould find the Mineral better cfi-" 
 gefted. 
 
 CCCXIII. 
 
 Minerals are never dug out of the Earth 
 Minerals perfe&ly clean and fine ; they muft be refi- 
 Sed per- ned and cleanfed from their noxious quali- 
 teftiy fine t i es ^ an £ ff j n fo me Mines they do not rife 
 outot the f ^ a bf ? l u tely pure and perfeft as in others, 
 the vaft quantity which may be extra&ed, 
 the convenience of an eafy Tranfportation 
 and fale, may recompeiice the other faults. 
 If our Allom is not fo good as the Roman, 
 it (hould not hinder us from* ufing it in ie- 
 veral Colours, as well as the White Al- 
 lom which comes from feveral parts of Eu- 
 rope. The fame might be faid of our Vitriol, 
 if the Mines were well opened. 
 
 CCCX1V. 
 
 Wherefore that we may not leave fuch 
 a rich Treafure unimploy'd in the Bowels 
 of the Earth, and to oblige our Country- 
 alcove^ Men to difcover thofe Mines that may be 
 ; wrought, yet unknown in France $ 'tis neceffary to 
 allot a fmall recompence to thofe who firlt 
 difcover Mines, and to caufe them to be 
 inceflantly wrought by skilful , Workmen, 
 who fliould be brought from Mines of the 
 
 fame 
 
 "Ways t6 
 rauie the 
 V-rench 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 June Nature in oth< :ri , s lTthere 
 
 be nunem France who are I 
 
 cccxv. 
 
 We have alfo in France Cajfcmlle or Galls 
 
 £?,#* "Pon Oak leaves, Alder 
 Bark, ^ whicl) is a lma] , f > f *««* 
 
 thar comes from Province, Ahlberle and 
 
 W, ; ,,,, „ vo P]:lnrs ^ d fi £* and 
 
 em,t a .very ftrong Scent, they grow „ 
 Lavguedoc^i Provence. GaroJlels to be 
 found ,„ Provence, Unwdoc and RonfiS 
 Thusyou have all the Ingredients requi/te to 
 the Dying of fome Colours, in fome niacJs 
 and fome fort of Stuftes, accord ng ffi 
 Mruftton ; as well as Orfeille, which is a 
 fort of fmall Mofle or Quit tha ™ 
 upon ifoney Hills or Rocks, and which nr? 
 pared with Salt and Urine,' produce a ££ 
 hne mixture or Colours : There is alfo Z 
 
 flir °"' Whkh is t0 be <ound in ^«- 
 
 CCCXVI. 
 
 Tho' Or>7/e is the fame with LorcbeUh 
 oxLurfole, which comes from the Canaries 
 and yields n0 Ming Dye, yet itsBeauty has 
 brought this Drug into fo great requtft that 
 Monfieur de Betbancom m his Conqueft of 
 thofe Iflands reierved the Trade of it 
 wholly to himfelf, as the cleareft and 
 molt adyantagious part of his Revenue 
 and it was what would have turned to a' 
 
 « very 
 
 337 
 
13^ 
 
 Conclufioft 
 of this In- 
 ftruftion. 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 very good Account in France^ if our Na- 
 tion would not have ufed that of Genoua 
 and other Foreign Countries, inftead of that 
 which grows and is cultivated at home, 
 whirt is at leaft as good, and produces 
 better Dyes. 
 
 CCCXVIf. 
 
 Tfao' France • produces feveral other 
 Drugs or Ingredients proper for the Dying 
 of Wools, yet having fpoken of the Prin- 
 cipal 'tis only neceflary, before 1 conclude 
 this 'Inftruaion, to tell the Reader, that 
 Dying contributes full as much to the 
 Beauty and iale of Stuffs, as the Materials 
 and making, and that it is impoffible to 
 Eftablifh commerce without good Colours, 
 nor to have good Dyes without the good 
 Drugs which grow in Frame s > but we 
 Cannot expeft to have to in their 
 utmoft perfeaion without Eftabliihing 
 their! Culture, the Provinces which ihall 
 be neceflary, and without procuring 
 the confutation by ufing them in our 
 Dyes according to this inftruaion. All 
 theft things evince the intire connection ot 
 them, and confequently the impoffibility ot 
 re-eftablifhing one without the other. And 
 as the whole ought to be carry ed on by the 
 fame Genius, fince Vis otherwife impoffihle 
 to reap all the advantages which the rub- 
 lick may hope for * fothefeare not fo in- 
 confiderable fo that the conf umption ot 
 theie Drugs in the Realme may amount to 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 above two Millions of Livres Yearly - 
 that being one of the necefTary confequences 
 of this following Inltruftion/as well as thofe 
 advantages we fhould reap by employing our 
 People, and the better file of Stuffs which 
 good Dying would caufe ; which indeed 
 would be very great and confiderable. 
 
 Qbfervjtlons on the Twelfth and hfi Part. 
 
 XT/ Hat our Author favs in this Part of 
 V V thetertility o{' ftance, with re- 
 iped to Minerals and Vegetables proper 
 for Dying that grow there, and may be 
 increafed and improved by Culture * is alike 
 true of Germany i for 'tis very well known 
 m feveral places of Saxony and Thrhgm- 
 efpecially at Erffurtb and Gotbj, Woad has 
 been a great while cultivated, and that k 
 fufhciently encreafed Trade in thoft parts 
 and now would, If; Firfr, the mHufr of fr> 
 digo were itriclly forbidden and puniA'd • 
 Secondly I the Fraud in preparing and 
 Llling Woad were prevented 5 And Third- 
 ly, If feveral floathful lazy People were 
 employed (as in other Works to the Pub- 
 lick good) Jo in particular, to the Culture 
 of Woad. The ncgleft of the two firft hath 
 driven the Woad Culture out ofZrfurtb and 
 Tburtngen and 'tis at prefent moftJv got 
 into the Principality of Goth,, by thelaV 
 dable Zeal of the Inhabitants for the Pubfck 
 good : But thro' the exceflivc ufe of Indie 
 tis even there lefs cultivated than formerly' 
 for the (lighter fort of Woad. %S 
 
 Z 2 c 
 
 119 
 
 
340 The Art copying. 
 
 * enough cultivated, anlvery well requites the 
 
 Trouble, and morefcjyoad of all forts may 
 be produced. Chefecs Berries not being 
 fo well known, 'tis fb be doubted whether 
 it growing Spqntur\eoufly. is to be produ- 
 ced by Culture-, b&t perhaps it may be found 
 in feveral of the" Woody Countries of 
 Germany, particularly in the Lands of the 
 'Margrave of Brandenburg \ and by the 
 help of induftry and care may be planted : 
 I doubt not in the leaft, which is the more 
 to bewifhed, becaufe Cochineal commonly 
 ufed in Dying, is not always to be had, 
 and 'tis always fold as dear as the haft -India 
 Company pleafe. Befides that the Dye is 
 apt tofpot or ftain, and is not lalhng. Mad- 
 der is plentiful enough amongft us, as well 
 as in the Principality of Goth a, and the 
 Territories of Brejlaw^ from whence comes 
 the' name of Brejlaw-Mad&ev -, and tho 5 it 
 looks coarfer and browner, yet there is no 
 other real difference, than that the menti- 
 oned (v. 1 3) &mous Flanders-Mz&dex 
 is better cured or prepared, which may be 
 alfo done by us if we pleafe h 'tis true the 
 Holland Madder feems cleaner and falls 
 lighter and v%ibly different in the Dye, 
 and on the contra/, the Brefinp Madder be- 
 coming rather a Red Earth than a Root 
 looks of a Walnut Colour * but the 
 difference is undoubtedly owing to the dif- 
 ferent ways of Culture, tho' ■ fome are of 
 Opinion 'xteHdLmi fort ought tc >be cho- 
 fen, becaufe it is gaudyer. Spamjb ^co^ 
 is not known amongft us,but Broom andDg 
 
The Art of Dying. 
 
 Weed grow ipontaneoufly amongft us in gr&t 
 abundance in feveral Places,and mayeafilybe, 
 fowed where it doth notjo a good Advantage. 
 Turmerick and Verdigreafe we have not 
 yet, Walnut-trees are plenty every where, 
 which is io much the better, becaufe the 
 Leaves, Bark, Root and Nut-fhells are all 
 ufefiil. We want yet Sumach, Rcdoid and 
 roinc , The two Jail we have never heard 
 or but by our Authors Account , tho 5 upon 
 hght of the Shrub, I doubt not but wefhould 
 know them. That Sumach may be plenti- 
 fully produced, experience fafficiently con- 
 firms by thoie who cultivate it as an Orna- 
 ment to their Gardens, Some of our Dy- 
 ers efteem the .Caffenolle or little Galls which 
 grow upon Oak Leaves, as the beft, the/ 
 hemg a right fort of Galls, and kplainly an-' 
 
 f i/L • ^ lde V Bark we ] ^ve as much as 
 pientv ru in our Wine Countries VimnT 
 
 S&rtffl? M - in 1» of wM ^ he *S- 
 
 <& «. d r' ltJtan Is c{ ieapeft. What is L 
 
 "Pea in Sl^ ?£ t0 **%£& 
 <* our Not« PP " d ' X by Wa ^ of re ^ 
 
 34' 
 
 2? 
 
 A N 
 
I 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 I 
 
343 
 
 A N 
 
 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 TO THE 
 
 INSTRUCTION 
 
 FOR 
 
 DYING. 
 
 CONTAINING, 
 The Natural HISTORY and Cul- 
 ture of Indigo, Woad, the manner of 
 gathering Chermes Berries, and the Pro- 
 perties of Pot Afhes and Verdigreafe. 
 
 Chap. L 
 
 Of Indigo. 
 
 INiigo is a fip proceeding and prepared' 
 from a Plant in the Eaft-Mia \ the in, 
 tire procefs of its preparation, you 
 nave defenbed in Tavemm\ Travels //* 2 
 ^p.i2..andisasfolloweth: 
 
 rsr^* JP roceeds fom a Plant which is 
 produced from its proper Seed, fown Year- 
 
 Z * If 
 
344 Fbe Art of Dying. 
 
 ly after the Rainy Sea'fon is over. In its 
 Growth,Ripencfs, and Figure, 'tis not unlike 
 Hemp. It yields three Crops Annually ^ 
 the nrft is cut when 'tis about two or three 
 Foot high, and is much better than the ie- 
 cond or third Crop, the fecond being efteem- 
 ed ten or twelve per Cent, worfe than the fait., 
 and the third twenty per Cent, worfe than 
 the fecond, which difference is clearly vifi- 
 ble'upon the breaking of the Cakes. That 
 prepared from the firft is of a blewifh Vio- 
 let Brown Colour, brighter and more lively 
 than the other two : But the difference of 
 the Prizes of the feveral forts being fb con- 
 siderable, tempts the Indians to commit 
 feveral Frauds, as well in the weight as 
 goodnefs, which I (hall elf e where mention. 
 After the Indians have cut this plant they 
 throw it into Lime Pits about eighty or 
 a hundred Paces in Circumference, or repo- 
 fitorys defign'd for that end, and mix'd it 
 with Lime, where it becomes as hard as 
 Warble. Thefe Pits fhould be about half 
 full of Water, and afterwards filled up with 
 the Plant which is cut down, and daily 
 Sirred and intermixed with the Water, 
 till the Colour is perfectly exhaufted from 
 firft the Leaves, and then the Staulks, fo that 
 they turn to a glutenous Subftance, becoming 
 like a heap of Ciav h after which let it 
 ftand feveral Days without ftirring it to 
 fettle i and when the Colour is perfectly 
 fetled to the bottom, and the Water above 
 remains clear, open the outlets of the Pit 
 hitherto clofe (hut, and let the Water run 
 
 oft, 
 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 I 
 i 
 
 b 
 
•*«■ 
 
 f The Art of Dying. 
 
 off, then remove the fediment in Baskets- 
 to a plain Ground, where make it into lit-" 
 tie pvramidicai Cakes. The Indigo of 
 Amadabat is made in fiat round Cakes. 
 The Merchants that they may not pay 
 Cuftom for any thing that is not valuable 
 before they tranfport the Indigo into Europe 
 caufc it to befifted, and fell the Duft to the 
 Inhabitants to Dye with. Thofe who lift 
 the Indigo are obliged to take particular 
 Care of themfelves, by clapping a Linnen 
 Cloath before their Faces, and flopping all 
 raffages of the Air, except two little holes 
 left for them to fee out of Not only the 
 fitters, but the Clark. and Officers of the 
 Company, who have the infpeftion of the 
 Indigo Works, are obliged every half hour 
 to drink Milk, which is a remedy againft 
 the Corrofive quality of the Indigo Duft 
 Notwithffanding all this Care, 'tisimpof- 
 iible for thofe People who are obliged to 
 lift, or be about the fifters for eight or ten 
 l^ys, to prevent all things feeming Blue 
 That they look upon, which I can the bet- 
 ter afferr, having feveral times myfelf tryed 
 the Experiment, in being amongft thefe 
 lifters fuch is the Penetrating Nature of 
 this Indigo Dull. 
 
 When they make the Cakes out of the 
 Mafs, they are ufedto oil their Fingers, and 
 after they are made, they are laid a dry- 
 ing in the Sun: And when the Merchant 
 buyesany Indigo, he always caufes fome of 
 the Cakes to be burnt, tq try whether there 
 t>e zny Sand in it. For the Workmen who 
 
 make 
 
 345 
 
34^ Fh e Art of Dying. 
 
 make the Cakes, or when they have oiled 
 their Fingers, are very apt to put them into 
 the Sand, and thereby mix it with the In- 
 digo, which Ipoils andincreafes the weight 
 of the Indigo, but if it be burnt it turns 
 to Aihes, and the Sand remains. A like 
 Defcription, lee in Hiftorie des Joyaux in the 
 Philosophical Tranfaft 1666, Month of 
 March. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 0/ the Culture of Woai in Saxony and 
 Thuringia. 
 
 THe learned George Wolfgang Weidelius ha- 
 ving treated this Subjeft the moft accu- 
 rately/of any that I know,in his experimentum 
 novum de file Vohtili Eantarum, I cannot 
 prefent you with a better Account, than a 
 Tranflation of what he hath faid. 
 
 There are two forts of Woad, the one 
 fowed or planted, called Ifitri > and the 
 other wild or fpontaneous ; The ufe ot the 
 former in Dying is very ancient, as appears 
 from Diofcorides, S -*>**•* ?tf?3 qualana- 
 rum infettores utuntur h from whence it natu- 
 rally follows, that the Culture and Prepa- 
 ration of that Plant was not unknown to 
 
 1 HenceTt was accounted the third ftaple 
 produft of Thuringia, according & Corn*. 
 inCownentar. inDiofcor : Lib. 2. Cap, 16*. 
 
 ' 
 
— 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Pag. 210. from whence, I doubt not, came 
 our common German Proverb, That ZW* 
 gia alike produces Wine, Wheat and Woad 
 to which may very well be added a fourth' 
 namely, Wool. "> 
 
 • T t e £ r< * luaio ' 1 of Woad is very eafir 
 mafatS6il, it growing as taft as Tares. V 
 
 But it grows beft of all in thofe Fields 
 where Flax hath before been cultivated* 
 it planted in other Ground, rhe Land 
 ought to be firft well dunged. 
 
 Whether the Land hath been fertilized by 
 Flax or Dung, it mult next be Dug in 2 
 
 Si™t e ™T d ' ° r rather P' »ghed with a 
 Plough made on purpofe, called the great 
 Woad Pough drawn by fourHorfe. Bu 
 it tis ploughed with the common Plough 
 it ought to be very flowlv and deeply done' 
 the Work requiring Time andYabour! 
 wherefore it ought to be done in fight of 
 Iters Ownos, rather rhan trufled ! o- 
 
 The Ground ploughed in Autumn, muft 
 
 Raifu°ir^y goftheSi -^ 
 
 S°m^V take i!- ? 3t \ bS " 0t f P° ile d With 
 
 bmoak, which renders it wholly ineffeft- 
 
 ' f u A ^ et C }* dlema A i'n tolerable Weather 
 te lowed, but Care is to be taken thatlt 
 
 to fcf d T J°°r thkk ' and a litcle Snow £ 
 
 wtf for ' which wiU p romote the 
 
 Af- 
 
 347 
 
 ■ 
 id' 
 
548 The Art of Dying. 
 
 After lowing, it ought to lye a Day or 
 two, md then fhculd be covered with the 
 Earth by Harrowing. 
 
 After Eafiet^ it muft be very well clean- 
 fed from Weeds. * 
 
 The firit Crop is ripe after Midfummer^ 
 and when the extream Leaves begin to turn 
 Yellow, or the Flowers are full blown, it 
 muft be cut down, laid in heaps, and 
 wafhed. 
 
 After which, it ought to be traniportect 
 to a proper place to ipread it abroad and 
 turn it, in order to dry it ^ which if 
 carefully done, redounds to the Advan- 
 tage of the Husbandman, by increafing the 
 Number of Balls, as it tends to the profit 
 of the Buyer, becauie if it be throughly 
 dryed the Colour is better and more laft- 
 igg. But uncertain Weather fometimes 
 drying it, and fometimes moiftningitby 
 Showers, when it ought to . be freed from 
 all extraneous Humidity, endangers its Cor- 
 ruption, as appears by its frequently turning 
 Black the in Ipace of one Night. 
 
 Being cleared of its fuperfluous moifture, 
 it is heaped up and ground in ftamping 
 Mills, commonly ufed in Tburingia for this 
 end, or between Stones, the old way of 
 
 curing it. • . 
 
 After this grinding it ought to be gathe- 
 red into heaps, which fhould be covered at 
 the top to fhelter them from the Rain, and 
 left expofed to the Air on thefides, that by 
 Night it may be cleared of its remaining 
 herbaceous Humidity. This Method is de- 
 ferred 
 
The Art of Vying. 
 
 faibed in few Words by Ryffins in Comment. 
 wDiofcor. Lib. 2. Cap. 177. Pag. 193. 
 
 Being reafbnably freed from its moifture, 
 'tis made into large Balls, and the laft time 
 laid to dry upon Hurdles in a roofed place, 
 fo that 'tis to be obferved, that the greateft 
 Care required, is that of perfectly drying 
 ir 5 for if any Humidity be left, 'twill be 
 apt to putrify it, and render the Commodity 
 as worthlefs to the Husbandman as ufelefs 
 to the confumer, it being unfit to produce 
 any Volatii Salt. The Balls ought to be left 
 here as long a? occafion requires 5 after 
 which they fhould be removed to a Granary 
 or Ware-houfe. 
 
 Thefe Balls which areufually fold by the 
 fixty, being piled in heaps grow fenfibly 
 hot, and exhale a Urinary Volatile Salt, 
 fooner or later, as the warmth of the Seaibn 
 or the great quantity of Balls occafions it : 
 This fpreading Salt not only extends its felf 
 to the place where the trails are, but fills all 
 the Neighbouring Houfes with its Smell, 
 and occasions a fort of Dewy drops to hang 
 on the Wall, Roofs and other Parts of the 
 Houfes, which evaporate into Air, if the 
 Volatile Salt be not extracted. At laft by 
 pouring Water upon it, the heat grows 
 more intenfe $ and tho 5 it doth not reduce 
 the Woad to Allies as fome afTert, yet it 
 turns it to a coarfe Powder, fit for the 
 Dyers ufe. 
 
 But to Conclude what yet remains to be 
 faid of the Culture of Woad ; It fhould 
 be a fecond time Weeded, not with Hana> 
 
 as 
 
 34? 
 
 ♦ 
 
 .■it 
 
3S 
 
 o 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 as at firft, but Sheep fhould be put Into the 
 Woad " Grounds to eat up the Graft and 
 Weeds, and clean the Woad, which they 
 cannot hurt 'by eating it, becaufe they can- 
 not eat the Salt, nor can they injure it by 
 treading it down, unlefs they are left too 
 long in the Ground by the negligence of the 
 Sheepherd. 
 
 Six Weeks after the firft Crop, it may be 
 cut again as before, and iix Weeks at 
 ter that it may be cut a third time, if the 
 Autumnal Weather favour the Work ^ but 
 if the Frofty Weather comes too loon upon 
 it, the third Crop is not to be expected 
 fb good, as well becaufe it hath not been 
 fufficiently influenced by thedigefting Sun, 
 and the Dye is poorer, as that the time of 
 wafhing is fbmewhat unfeafbnable,the Water 
 is cold, the Woad is unfit for that fort of 
 preparation, not to mention that its ftrength 
 is near exhausted, and it affords very little 
 Salt. 
 
 From whence it appears that thofe who 
 plough their Lands for Woad later or a- 
 bout Lent time, can reap but two Crops, 
 the firlt in Wheat and Rye Harveft, which 
 ufes to be called young Woad. 
 
 Thofe Lands which have been made to 
 produce Woad - for one Year, ought to be 
 fowed with Barley the next Year. 
 
 But if there be a want of Woad Seed, 
 
 a part of the third Crop fhould be left 
 
 Handing, which will grow to Seed next 
 
 Year, and will yield about as much Money 
 
 a CroBof Oats, 
 
 Some 
 
 as 
 
I 
 
 The Art of Dying. 
 
 Some Farmers after the third Crop, or 
 the fecond of the young Woad, in order to 
 augment their Gains after the harfhnefs of 
 the Seafon or Obftacles that have in fome 
 meafure injured their Crop, choofe rather to 
 leave the Plant in the Ground till the lent 
 following, and reap a Crop of flight Woad, 
 called the fecond fort of Woad, than to 
 Plough their Lands for Barley. But 'tis fo 
 great a miltake, that as the Woad is Co very 
 poor, fo it impoverishes the Ground lo 
 much, that much more is loft in afucceed- 
 mg Barlev Crop than gained by the laft 
 of Woad. 
 
 35i 
 
 Chap. IIL 
 
 Of Chermes Berries. 
 
 C Hermes or Chermes Berries you have 
 very well defcribed by Ekjladius (do 
 confett. Alchermes. Pag. 16. .17.) and the 
 Learned Ammarinus in his Mamidu&io ad Gerrard 
 Materiam Medicam. Pag. 87. tells us that calls it the 
 Chermes is the old Coccus Baphica, or Dying o* r k ktc 
 Coccus. The Bramble or Tree is a fort of 
 Holm called Cocdfera or Cocdglandifera. 
 W T hen thefe Berries are over Ripe (whence 
 the Crimfbn, Purple and Scarlate Dyes are 
 prepared) they breed a fort of Worm, 
 which turning to a Fly takes its flight, ii 
 not prevented bv killing it. The Dyers 
 don't prefi thefe Berries through Cloth or 
 
 Sieves, 
 
55 * The Art of Dying. 
 
 Sieves, but infufe them in Wine or Vine- 
 gar. 
 
 But in the Philofoph. Tranfaftions, for 
 December 1666. Obfer. 7th. you have an Ac- 
 count of a very curious and Advantagious 
 way of gathering and preparing thefe Ber- 
 ries. Verney a Trench Apothecary in a 
 Defcription of the Chermes Berries, faith, 
 they are an Excrefcence found at the ex- 
 tream parts of the Leaves, and on the fu- 
 peificies of the Wood which grows in Lan- 
 gnedoc. 
 
 Thefe Leaves are gathered about the end 
 of May^ or beginning of June 5 and 
 the Berries are found full of Red Juice, 
 ufeful as well in Pharmacy as Dy- 
 ing of Wool and Silk, to which laft end 
 thefe Chermes Berries when ripe are fpread 
 upon a Cloath, and ftirred or turned two or 
 three times a Day fo long as they continue 
 moift, which is done to prevent their grow- 
 ing too hot 5 carefully obferving when 
 a fort of Red Powder appears betwixt the 
 Berries, which-muft immediately be fepara- 
 ted from the Berries, by lifting them in 
 a Searce, then fpread afrefh the Berries a- 
 broad on the Cloath till the Powder ap- 
 pers again on the fuperficies of the Berries : 
 upon which they mult be again flrained, 
 and this Operation muft be fo often re- 
 peated, till no more Powder appears. 
 
 When the little Berries firft begin to move 
 themfelves, they ought to be fprinkled with 
 Vinegar, and rubbed betwixt the Hands 5 
 after which they are formed into little Balls* 
 
 . an4 
 
..«».-.. V 
 
 
 \ 
 
 The Art of Dying. 353 
 
 and laid in the Sun to dry. When this 
 Powder or little Berries are ib negleded,fo 
 that no Vinegar or Acid Liquor h fprinkled 
 upon them, you will find a Number of 
 Flyes proceed from the Berries, equal to the 
 Number of the Berries them feives, which will 
 nutter about a Day or two, and at Jalt 
 changing Colour fall down dead, and de- 
 prived of all the bitter raft, that was before 
 in the Berries, whence thefe Worms pro- 
 ceeded. The dry Husks of thefe Berries 
 after the Subftance confuting in the Red 
 Fowder is exuded, arc moiltened with 
 Wine and expofed to the Sun, and when 
 dry, are put into a Bag, and fhaken by two 
 Men, till they mine very brightly • after 
 which, they're put into little Bags, with a 
 quantity of the Powder, proportioned to 
 the quantity the Berries have yielded, as 
 the 7th, 8th or 9th Part h and as the Pow- 
 der falls off, more or lefs, fo is the produce 
 greater orlefTer, 
 
 A a 
 
 CHAP. 
 
354 The Art of Vying. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 OfPot-Afies. 
 
 TTHe Preparation of this Vegetable fixed 
 Salt is very pertinently defcribed in 
 Lunckelius de Arte Vitriaria^ and is as fol- 
 lows. 
 
 Take the Afhes of hard Woods, as Oak, 
 Beech, Alder, Birch, Hawthorn, and a fort 
 of Husks of Grapes, or the Afhes of any 
 Plant or Tree in general (but the hard 
 Woods afford the molt Salt) of which 
 makeafharpLye, and when it is very clear, 
 boil it in a thick Iron Cauldron, or (where a 
 lefs quantity is to be made) in a thick 
 Earthen unglafed Pot, prefs it down dole, 
 harden and dry it 5 and after that, dig it 
 out of the Kettle with a Chiffel, taking 
 care that no holes be thereby made in 
 the Kettle ^ and if boiPd in an Earthen 
 Pot, you may break that off the Mais of 
 Afhes or Grey Saline Subltarxe, which 
 muft then be burned till it becomes White : 
 And this is the Pot- Afhes, which ought to 
 be laid in dry places in the open Air, and 
 kept from moifiure or Water. The Afhes 
 that remain after you have made the above- 
 mentioned Lye, are an extraordinary good 
 manure for Land, it attracting to itsfelf 
 the Nitrous Salt of the Air, which is the 
 CardoVegelationis according to Digby r in his 
 Book de VcgetatiGne Plant arum, and Becbcrm 
 
 his Fhyjica Subterrawa* C H 4 P* 
 
The Art of Dying. 355 
 
 4 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 Of Ver dig r cafe. 
 
 VErdigreaie is moftly imported into 
 Germany from France^ where it is 
 made after the following manner (according 
 to Zwelfer in Refiitat. Tacben. Part 4. Cap. 3 9 ) 
 Take thin Plates or Leaves of Copper and 
 Grapes, firft prefTed in the Wine-prefs, and 
 difpofe them alternately in Layers one up- 
 on another f putting between each Layer a 
 very fine Linnen Qoath, to prevent their 
 mixing) pour upon it one part of Vinegar 
 and three parts of Boys Urine 5 to which 
 fome add a little Allom and Nitre h this 
 mixture mult, in cafe it grows dry, be' often 
 moiftened with frefh Urine till the Copper 
 is throughly corroded and turned into Ver- 
 digreafe, which is made into Loaves like 
 thofe of Bread, and fo kept for life. 
 
 N. B. Vinegar put into a Copper Ve£ 
 lei, contracts a iort of Green raft, but not 
 comparable to Verdigreafe • and the plain 
 reafonof the difference, is, that the prefll 
 Grapes contain the moft Penetrating and 
 Subtil Spirit of Wine, which being rai- 
 led by hairing the Grapes in the PrelTur 
 is of a Nature 16 Volatile, that if can 
 hardly be kept from evaporating, in Diftil- 
 lation, or converted to a permanent Ligour, 
 4nd is very unlike the common Diftilled 
 
 Spi- 
 
 ■ 
 ■ 
 
35^ The Art of 
 
 m : of Wine, as being of a more fearching 
 and fubtil Nature : but it is inlbme meafure 
 like that Spirit which iffues from the Muft 
 of Wine, when in a Ferment, which is fo 
 ftrong, that a whole Cellar where fome fats 
 of it are, is filled with a fort of Vapour 
 To piercing, that it often fuffocates thoie who 
 unwarily ftay in the Cellar above half an 
 Hour, or don't expel this Noxious Vapour 
 with Coals of Fire, as 'tis commonly done 
 In Aujlria* 
 
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