SAst^eSE«i?sM aiAi CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND GIVEN IN 189I BY HENRY WILLIAMS SAGE Corneir University Library F 10608 S72 Saskatchewan and the Rocky Mountains: olln 3 1924 028 902 884 F 10 4 .8 S7^ Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028902884 SASKATCHEWAN THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. Printed by R. &^ R. Clark FOR EDMONSTON & DOUGLAS, EDINBURGH. LONDON HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. CAMBUIDGE MACMILLAN AND CO. GLASGOW . JAMES MACLEHOSE. J > H Si O z I w Cfl ID O K Sohoolckaft, Ind. Tribes of Un. States, vol. ii. 157. 16 CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY. ohap. ii. chilling us to 'the very bone. In distance our march was much the same as that of the previous day — about five-and- thirty miles, but it was far less interesting, being almost entirely over an untimbered plain of poor quality, covered in many parts with an extensive growth of brushwood. I tried Don for the morning march, but he was so rough in his paces, that my right knee (tender since a balloon accident in 1848) began to be painful, and I resolved never to ride that horse again. After this he took his turn at the cart ; he proved too young and unseasoned, however, for much hard work, so I finally disposed of him at Fort Garry. Dr. Eae and M'Kay walked forward with their guns before the whole party started, and, keeping well in front, they picked up some prairie fowls,* ducks, and plovers, which * Common and widely diffused as the Prairie-Hen seems to be, some con- fusion apparently exists among naturalists in regard to it. Of all the Tetra- onidfe, as described by Dr. Richardson and Mr. Swainson in the Fauna Bm-eali-Americana, there is only one species (besides the Buffed Grouse — Tetrao umbelhts) in the least answering to the Prairie-fowl, viz. Tetrao [centrocemcs) phasianellus — The Sharp-tailed Grouse (length of male 20 inches), which I rather believe to be the bird in question. In the Zoological Appendix to Sir John Franklin's Narrative, ami. 1823 (p. 680), by Mr. Sabine, there is also no detailed description of any other nearly corresponding species ; but under the heading Tetrao umbellus — Ruffed Grouse, the author writes : — " This species is an inhabitant of wooded countries only, in which it differs from the Pinnated Grouse of America, Tetrao cupido, better known under the appella- tion of the Prairie Hen or Heath Hen. " Under the heading Tetrao phasia- nellus — Sharp-tailed Gh'onse,. the same author states, that Linnaeus at first called that bird T. phasianellus, but afterwards made it a variety of T. urogallus ; "and that subsequent experience has proved that the first opinion was correct." In the Naturalist's Library, edited by Sir William Jardine (vol. iv. p. 130), two closely allied species are described besides the Euffed Grouse, viz. — The Pinnated Grouse — Tetrao cupido (which is quoted as Linnaeus's desig- nation of it), and the Sharp-tailed Grouse — Tetrao phasianellm, the adult male of which is described as being "as large as" the Euffed Grouse, viz. about CHAP. II. CROW -WING TO FORT GARRY. 17 we boiled with rice at supper, to the great improvement of our former fare. We camped near Leaf Lake, whose shores were the site of a " city " which consisted of two wooden huts. The following day {Sunday, May 22d) was very warm and fine, and travelling became altogether more agreeable, for the road now took us through a pretty and varied country abounding in woods and lakes. In the morning we came across two or three Ojibways, the first of whom was no favourable specimen, — a miserable object, half naked and quite drunk, a bloated, disgusting savage. These Indians seemed peaceable and harmless eighteen inohes. Major Boss King, however {The Sportsman and Naturalist in Canada, scan.. 1866 — p. 143), only seems to recogiiise one bird of the kind in addition to the Ruffed Grouse, viz. The Prairie Ben — Cupidonia cupido, and he describes the male as ' ' averaging nearly three pounds avoirdupois in weight, not far from that of an ordinary Cock Pheasant " (about double the weight of an average Scottish Grouse), and as " measuring about nineteen inches in length," which approaches the length assigned by Dr. Richardson to the Tetrao phasianellics — viz. twenty inches. Mr. Hind, referring to the Prairie- fowl in the Roseau Lake district, not very far from Red River, designates them Tetrao cupido (Canadian Bed Eiver Exploring Expedition, vol. i. p. 160). Amidst this conflict of authorities it is hard to decide, and I can form no opinion as to whether or not the Sharp- tailed Grouse and the Pinnated Grouse are distinct. If, though distinct, they are closely-allied varieties, it is possible I may have shot spgcimens of both without observing the difference. I am disposed, however, to think that the birds we so constantly met with more resembled in size the former than the latter. My men used to speak of them as "Pheasants ; " and, all things considered, I incline to identify them with Dr. Richardson's " Tetrao phasianellus ;" — " AwMscow—Cree Indians ; Phea- sant — Hudson's Bay residents." — {Faun. Bor. Am. vol. ii. p. 361). Otherwise, one is forced to the strange conclusion that one of the commonest birds in the Hudson's Bay Territories has been omitted from a book expressly relating to the zoology of that country, — a work prepared by several distinguished naturalists, among whom Dr. Richardson, at any rate, was intimately acquainted with those northern parts of America, having been engaged in both of Sir John Franklin's overland expeditions. 18 CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY. chap. ii. enough, but we presently fell in with a very dangerous party of the same tribe. We were just entering a fine level prairie, which stretched a good twelve miles to the front, when we noticed a band of armed Indians posted on a mound that commanded the road. They evidently expected us, for one of them instantly ran to intercept Hopkins and M'Kay, who were riding foremost, threw himself in their way, and tried hard to stop them, loudly clamouring for presents. Sir George called to us to go on. We pressed forward. At that moment the Indian made a spring, and clutched at M'Kay's rein ; but the latter very quickly got rid of him, seizing the fellow's hand in such a gripe that he danced with pain and astonishment, and went staggering to the other side of the track. Another Indian snatched at the wheel of Sir George's cart, but failed to keep his hold ; and as we went steadily onwards, the villains thought better of it, and let us pursue our course, but before we had gone fifty yards they had the insolence to fire a bullet over our heads ; then the whole band began to shout and make gxossly insulting gestures. Such impertinence was hard to bear, and some of us felt inclined to turn back and try conclusions with them ; Sir George, however, begged us not to notice their insults, point- ing out that any injury received at our hands would only be revenged upon future travellers. He might have added that we should certainly have got the worst of it, the enemy being more numerous and twice as well armed. It was fortunate that we were a rather strong-looking party, for these Indians were of an Ojibway band called " Les Pillageurs," * notorious for their daring rascality. As * "The name of The Pillagers, or Muk-im-dua-mn-in-e-imig, pillage-men, OHAP. II. OROW-WING TO FORT GARRY. 19 recently as the foregoing year they had wantonly shot two horses belonging to some Eed Eiver half-breeds who happened to be passing along that already much-frequented track. Later in the day we crossed Little Eed Eiver, and in course of the afternoon traversed another considerable prairie, covered all over with the long, withered herbage of the bye- gone season. Taking no heed of this store of inflammable stuff, I carelessly threw away a match with which I had been lighting my meerschaum ; in an instant the prairie was in a blaze. The wind speedily bore the flames away from us, and ere long the conflagration raged far and wide. I never heard to what extent it spread, but for hours afterwards we could see its lurid glow illuminating the darkness of the distant horizon. Morgan carried me beautifully the whole forty miles of the march, and came in as fresh as when he started. He was quiet and gentle, spirited and handsome, perfect in all his paces ; a more charming pony it would be impossible to imagine. A few early mosquitoes showed themselves, the pioneers of the coming legions — ill-omened sight ! May 2Bd. — We started at 4 a.m., and rode till 9, passing was given to them by their fellow Ojibwas and whites, on account of their having taken away the goods of a trader about eighty years ago [about 1770], at the mouth of a creek still known as Pillage Creek, emptying into the Crow-Wing river. The band is also noted for their wildness, and as having on several later occasions acted to the letter of their name in their dealings with traders and missionaries Of the Pillagers, when you ask them who were their most noted warriors and men, the answer is — ' They all fought alike ; not one of our fathers passed through life without seeing the shedding of blood.' "— Sohoolceaft, Seport on the Indian Tribes of t!ie United States, vol. ii., 153, 165. 20 CROW- WING- TO FORT GARRY. chap. ii. for three hours through a wood of fine maples, ironwood, and brush, not unlike an English forest in appearance. "While traversing its bounds the Eed Eiver cart upset, but it was raised again, without injury either to that stout vehicle, or to Don, who was in the shafts at the time. After this we emerged on the banks of Lake Forty-four (so called from the date of the discovery of this route), a fine sheet of the clearest water, enlivened by the whiteness of a flock of swimming and wading pelicans. We had meant to halt for breakfast near the lake, but were completely put to rout by clouds of minute fjies, actually dense enough to choke up the horses' nostrUs, so we rode on for some miles farther, to the next convenient halting-place. Here mischance continued to follow us ; for our break- fast fire, being carelessly lighted, began to spread along the grass, and in a few minutes the wind, taking a sudden turn, blew all the smoke and sparks into our faces, obliging us to make a rapid retreat into the part already consumed. The grass being short and crisp on the barren eminence where we had posted ourselves, the line of flame never rose much above a foot from the ground, yet we had hard work to beat it out, and could scarcely force or persuade the horses to cross that really insignificant obstacle. We now began to ascend to a higher level, and coming at length to the top of an ascent, a most glorious landscape opened full upon our view. Far as the eye could reach swept one enormous plain, its vast extent diversified by the winding courses of the Ked Eiver and the Shayenne, and of many a smaller stream, whose meanderings could be traced by the trees that clung along their sides in a distinct though narrow border. The day had become intensely hot, it was difficult to WATERSPOUT. CHAP. 11. CROW -WING TO FORT GARRY. 21 breathe, one felt almost ready to faint. Thunder was pealing and lightning flashing in different parts of the sky, but far distant from us. Suddenly a phenomenon displayed itself on the south-west horizon — a waterspout of gigantic size and singular appearance. Its thin and lofty stem was surmounted by a far-spreading cloud of inky blackness ; at the base of the column torrents dashed upon the earth, rebounding in fountain-like, masses of silvery spray. This grand and uncommon spectacle continued for a quarter of an hour, then it began to dissolve away, and slowly faded into nothingness. May lUh. — An amusing though unpleasant incident happened in the night. Duncan, who was btit a novice in the art of encamping, had thoughtlessly set the flaps of my tent over the oil-cloth floor instead of under it, as he should have done, — a mistake which unluckily passed unobserved, for it was hardly perceptible when the blankets were laid down. Towards midnight I suddenly awoke, and found myself in a pool of water. A violent thunderstorm was raging, rain beating furionsly on the canvas, and entering beneath the xinfastened flaps ; whole floods strearning in and flowing round my back and shoulders. The darkness was intense. I managed to light a candle, and gazing on the cheerless scene discovered that my own side of the tent was completely inundated ; it lay low, and the oil-cloth, instead of running the water off, had made itself into a reservoir for my benefit. The other side was better situated, being on higher ground, and there I beheld my companion. Dr. Eae, sound asleep, as yet undisturbed by the tide, which only encroached upon his 22 OEOW-WING TO FORT GAEKY. chap. ii. feet and ankles. He slept quietly on, tiU in an hour or two the gradually rising water awoke him. Little could be done until daylight, but I improved matters by turning my india-rubber bath bottom upwards, with a pillow on the top of it, so as to form an island ; on which I seated myself, after drawing a waterproof over my soaking shirt, and passed away the time in writing up my journal. By 6 o'clock the rain had ceased. I escaped from the chilly tent, and, much to my satisfaction, found M'Kay in the act of kindling a fire, on a dry open piece of ground a few yards distant. Having extemporised a hut of branches covered with an oH-skin, he had passed a tolerable night ; the men, too, had been pretty well sheltered beneath the carts and waggon, and Sir George and Hopkins had slept very comfortably in their well-pitched tent. May 25th. — Owing to rain and mist we had marched but five miles on the previous day, M'Kay disliking to travel in wet weather, on account of the injury that damp occasions to soft leather harness. To make up, we rode twenty miles, without a halt, that bitterly cold, raw, east-windy morning, only stopping when we reached the flooded stream of the Eice Eiver. After breakfast we drove the horses across, while M'Kay built an ingenious scow by stretching our largest oil-skin over the wheels of the cart. These ironless wheels have a great outward set, so that when taken off and laid on their naves the level of the tires rests a foot or more above that of the ground. Two of them being placed side by side on the oil- cloth, were firmly tied together ; four poles were then lashed to each other so as to form an oblong, and tliis being fastened upon the wheels, and the oil-skin beneath (a a a) drawn up and attached to it, a strong and buoyant scow was the result, OHAr. II. CROW- WING TO FORT GARRY. 23 CART-WHEEL SCOW. the wheels heing at once framework and platform, while the poles made a steady gun- wale for the paddles to work on. — ' The luggage and thevehicleswere safely and speedily ferried over, M'Kay, as usual, wading about waist-deep, active and ready beyond imagina- tion After this we had a most weary ride over a long plain, recently burned and quite black, and so soft from the heavy rains that the horses went fetlock-deep at every step, sometimes sinking to the very hocks. Every brook was a river, every swamp a lake, the road a swamp. A cold steam rose from the soaked earth, our spirits were damped, the jaded horses plodded heavily on The journey seemed endless, for we could not find a good camping-place, but at length we settled down near a stream between Eice and Sand-hill Elvers.' Having borrowed a gun, I went forward while a portage was making over a small but deep little river, and shot a few ducks, as well as a prairie-fowl. I felt somewhat pleased in also shooting two bitterns, but my friends objected to them for supper, on account of their frog-devouring propensities. Kemembering a highly-approved dish in the refreshment-room at Toronto, it struck me that if we ate frogs ourselves we need not object to birds that did no worse. The bitterns, however, were vetoed on this occasion. I often ate them afterwards, and agree with our forefathers in thiaking them excellent food. May 2Wh.-. — After breakfasting on the pretty banks of the Sand-hill Eiver, at a place where sandy elevations were 24 CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY. chap. ii. covered with scattered trees, we forded its shallow stream and passed the baggage across in M'Kay's oH-skin scow. From this point the track improved, for it quitted the low moist plains, and ran along at a higher level on a dry and wholesome prairie. In the afternoon we observed a small black bear quest- ing about in the distance, whereupon M'Kay, with his won- derful art of making all horses go, immediately coaxed a gallop out of the wretched lame pony he was riding, and " ran " the bear, as the phrase is. A black pointer, named Blucher, joined zealously in the chase, turning the beast several times and worrying at his hind legs ; the coward, however, showed no signs of fight, though twice as big as his enemy, and M'Kay presently came up and shot him through the heart. This two-year-old bear was miserably thin and ragged. He seemed to have been in straits for food, for there was nothing in his stomach more nourishing than ants, many of . them alive and active ; he had positively swallowed the whole nest — moss, earth, insects, and all. We varied our supper with bear-steaks that night. I thought them particularly nasty, — lean, coarse, and rank-smelling ; perhaps, however, this was attributable to the animal's want of condition, for fat bear is spoken of as one of the best of things. All night long the wolves made doleful music in the wood on the other side of Eed Lake Eiver. This deep wide stream rolled on in heavy flood a few yards below the willows that sheltered our tents, and as I watched its swift and turbid current, I could not but wish that everything were safe across. May 21 th. — The crossing of the Eed Lake Eiver occupied us tin 12 o'clock. M'Kay and Toma began by launching the india-rubber canoe and leading one of the horses over ; CHAP. II. CROW -WING TO FOET GARRY. 25 the rest took the -water after a little pushing and driving, and all got safely to the other side. The baggage was then fer- ried across in an oil-skin scow, which we towed backwards and forwards by means of two ropes. Then came a hard march of twenty-six miles without a halt, mostly along a high gravelly bank of singular character, with swamps on either hand. Here, to our surprise, we beheld a tradesmanlike man walking towards us all alone. He proved to be an American pedlar, who, with true Yankee independ- ence, was returning companionless on foot after the disposal of all his cargo at Fort Garry. Excepting the knife in his pocket he was without a weapon, and there was but little in the small provision-bag he carried on his back. We won- dered how he would contrive to pass the Eed Lake Eiver, which is the worst difficulty in the whole 428 miles of the journey to Crow-wing. I believe that he waited till another party came up, and crossed with their assistance. For the first time the mosquitoes appeared in force. Not expecting them, I had no gloves with me, and, in spite of constant watchfulness, my hands were excessively bitten, and so empoisoned that they swelled up and grew very pain- ful, such feverishness succeeding as to prevent me from sleeping for the whole of the following night. I never again suffered so much in this way, for the blood gets by degrees accustomed to the venom of the bites, — there is less inflam- mation afterwards, though quite as much annoyance at the moment. May 28th. — We breakfasted early this morning, after scowing across Snake-hill Eiver, so I borrowed a gun and went forward in hopes of picking up some game. In this I was disappointed, and had more than enough of deep wading through flooded creeks ; but the beauty and freshness of the 26 CEOW-WING TO FORT GARRY. chap.ii. morning, and the exc[uisite singing of thousands of little birds in the bushes and poplar groves, amply made up to me for all. My bag, however, was not quite an empty one, for while waiting at Pine River for the arrival of the carts, I stalked and shot some pigeons that had settled among the higher trees up and down the course of the stream. They were exceedingly pretty birds, rather larger than turtle-doves, bluish in colour, and chiefly differing from the common pigeon in the pheasant-like length of their pointed tails. We often heard their peevish scream, but, from their wildness, could not succeed in getting many of them.* Towards afternoon we came to a miserable country, swamp following swamp, and at length we got entangled in one of such depth, that poor Don, who was dragging the cart through it, fairly sat down on his haunches, and I thought we should never be able to move him. ' The frogs, as usual, never ceased their chirping and croaking uproar; cranes were very numerous, uttering con- tinually their doleful, throat-gargling cry, a sound only surpassed in wretchedness by the shrieks of the ungreased cart-wheels, which moaned and screamed lilce a discontented panther.' Sunday, May 29th. — The horses strayed, and delayed us more than half- an-hour, but we made our start at 5 a.m., and were as far as the first of the Deux Eivieres by our usual dinner-time. Previously to this we had been traversing a rich but bare and level prairie of many miles' extent. — ' It is strange to find oneself on an apparently flat disc of grass, nothing but grass meeting the plain horizon-line all around. One feels as if crawling about in view of high Heaven on a * Columlja (Ectopistes) Migratoria, Passenger Pigeon. Mimewuck — Cree Indians. — Eioiiakdson, Faun. Bar. -Am., vol. ii. p. 363. CHAP. II. CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY. 27 circular table punclied out from the world and stuck on a spike.' ' A loYcly sunny day, and not too hot. . . . We crossed the river without accident, thanks to M'Kay's skill and activity, and camped on the banks of the second of the Deux Eivieres.' May Z^fh. — There was a break in our journey through the wilderness when early that afternoon we arrived at Pembina, near the boundary of the British territories, 'a small and straggling place, not worthy to be called a village,' and established ourselves at the Company's fort, then under charge of Mr. M'Intosh. By Sir George's directions aU sorts of good things were specially provided for our dinner. A calf was killed for the occasion, Gold-Eye fish were procured, — in short, we were treated to a most excellent meal, doubly welcome to us after the rough fare of the preceding week ; which had been little but salt pork, with the addition of such pigeons, curlews, ducks, and plovers, as we had managed to pick up by the way. Our quiet was too soon interrupted by the uproar of a large band of Saulteaux,* who came and fired salutes close by in honour of the Governor's arrival This meant the usual thing — presents ; but Sir George gave them little encourage- ment, probably not choosing to countenance irregular demands from natives in trade relations with the Company, especially as he was travelling for the first time by this rather recently developed Minnesota route. * Or Salteurs, or Sotoos, — one of the 'branches of the Ojihway tribe, so named from their residence having heen near the Sault St. Marie. — V. Fkanklin, Journey to (he Polar Sea, in the Years 1819-22, p. 63. Mr. Kane thus writes on the subject: — " The Saulteaux are a band of the great Ojibbevvay nation, both words signifying ' the Jumpers,' and I derive the name from their expertness in leaping their canoes over the numerous rapids which occur in the rivers of their vicinitj'.'' — Wanderings of an Artist, p. 82. 28 CEOW-WING TO FOET GAEEY. chap. ii. I was disappointed in these Indians. They too much re- sembled commonplace Europeans, southerners in aspect, northerners in the forms and materials of their clothing — ' by no means fine-looking men, but picturesque with their green or scarlet blankets, and their long, streaming, coal-black hair.' May 31st — Our road was mostly over vast rich plains, and the only incident of the day was the passage of the Vieux Marais, a horribly swampy creek, which from its depth offered a serious obstacle, although only a few yards wide. It was necessary to take the trouble of unharnessing, and pushing or hauling the carts across, after a previous portage of the baggage. The men carried us aU over. M'Kay took Sir George, but I was quite as well placed on Toma's powerful back, though even he had enough to do in wading this deep and treacherous morass. We were furnished with a strange lot of horses to-day, which had been taken from the Company's Pembina establishment to relieve our own jaded .animals. Hopkins rode a showy, skew-bald, Eo'man-nosed pony, a buffalo- runner of some repute, but whose chief accomplishment seemed to consist in stumbling, which he climaxed by a sudden fall on his head. My steed was much more remarkable, being a true specimen of the " woolly " horse, his soft dun hair covering him in close curls like the fleece of a Leicester sheep. He had been brought from the Columbia Eiver country, where a breed of that kind is said to exist. June, \st. — ^We had heavy rain and thunder at night, but kept aU dry in our tents, with one trifling exception. It cleared up for a few minutes between 4 and 5 a.m., so we set out on our march ; rain, however, came on again, and lasted nearly four hours. .p. II. CROW- WING TO FORT GARRY. 29 We breakfasted at the house of a settler named D , who lived with his family in great apparent comfort in that small log cottage, and farmed on a moderate scale, owning sixty head of cattle, and cultivating a few acres of land. After taking leave of Mr. D we crossed the Eed Eiver in a ferry-boat, and riding forward at a good pace, in two hours or so we found ourselves opposite Fort Garry. Placing ourselves in the ferry-boat for the second time that day, we speedily arrived at the other side ; then, having remounted our steeds — miae was Morgan once more — we dashed at full gallop up to the Fort, amidst the firing of cannon and the cheers of a welcoming crowd. CHAPTEE III. POET GAREY. JD OET GAEEY, as we approached it, seemed to me a very considerable place. It was then, as I believe it is now, a great parallelogram of lofty stone walls with circular bastion towers, within which compass stood rows of storehouses in line with the sides, while, rectangularly to these, ranges of more important buildings occupied the central space, facing this way and that towards the opposite ends of the oblong. On entering the enclosure we rode up to the principal house, where we were received by Dr. Bunn, the medical resident at the Fort ; we had been previously met near the ferry by Mr. Fortescue, the second in charge, as representa- tive of his chief, Mr. Mactavish, who was then temporarily absent ; and very comfortable rooms were prepared for us in the large and spacious mansion which for a while was to form our home. As two o'clock struck we sat down to an excellent dinner, at which, besides the gentlemen already mentioned, our party comprised three of the Company's clerks — Mr. Bridgeman, Mr. Watson, and Mr. Kennedy ; also another traveller from the old country, Mr. Boyd, an English gentleman, who was rest- ing here for a few days on his return journey, after a length- ened visit to the great camp of the half-breeds during the continuance of their winter buffalo-hunt. CHAP. III. FORT GARRY. 31 It was a large party, — a pleasant one I am sure we all found it, and wished for no change in its number; unfor- tunately, however, it soon had to suffer a serious diminu- tion, for, a few days after our arrival. Sir George's official duties called him away to Norway House, at the northern extremity of Lake Winnipeg, there to preside at the general meeting of the Company's chief officers, — an assemblage annu- ally held to arrange the business for each ensuing year. Before his departure he occupied much of his time in for- warding my intended expedition, heartily interesting himself in aU its details, and giving me invaluable assistance and advice ; among other beneiits, he was good enough to leave with me his own canoe-man, Toma, one of the trustiest and best of fellows. I felt melancholy when the hour of leave-taking arrived ; when farewells had to be exchanged with my much-valued friends Sir George and Mr. Hopkins. Our acquaintance had been but brief, as dates might limit it, but amidst such journeyings as we had shared in, a week does more for intimacy than months might do elsewhere. To me their companionship had been all that was kindly and agreeable, and mine, I trust, had to some extent been the same to them.* It took me a full fortnight to complete my preparations, notwithstanding the great help I received from Dr. Eae and Mr. Mactavish — I might indeed say, from every member of the Company's establishment, for all vied with one another in * Little did I think that I looked on one of these friends for the last time, as we stood at the gate and cordially pressed hands together. But so it was to he. Not much more than a year had elapsed, when a very kind letter from Mr. Hopkins hronght me the sorrowful news of Sir George Simpson's death. He died in Septemher 1860, after an illness of hut five days' duration. Thus was taken from us a true, warm-hearted friend, an ahle, energetic man ; thus was ended a most useful, active, and distinguished career. 32 FORT GAERY. chap. hi. kind offices. There were men to engage, llorses and carts to buy, stores of every kind to lay in, — a thousand things, in short, to do, which waste time more than any one could fancy who has not gone through the same experience. I was impatient to set off, for summer in this land is a very fleeting season ; but, putting that aside, the days slipped pleasantly by. The Protestant Bishop of Eiipert's Land (then Bishop Anderson), and Bishop Tache of the Eoman Catholic see of St. Boniface, were both good enough to call on me, and part of my time was passed in returning their visits and those of some of the other principal residents. The Eed Eiver Settlement at that time consisted of a series of small farms and holdings, more or less thickly placed along the two banks of the river from which it derives its name. At Fort Garry, where there were houses enough to form a sort of scattered town, the population was sharply divided by the river into two distinct sections, the Scotch and English settlers and their half-breeds occupying the western bank, while the French Canadians, whether pure or half-breed, occupied the right or eastern bank. On Monday the 3th, a very agreeable hour was passed by Dr. Eae and myself in visiting the Eoman Catholic nunnery, following an introduction to the Lady Superior afforded us by Bishop Tach6's kindness. It was chiefly an educational estab- lishment, managed by the nuns, who, I believe, were Sisters of Charity. They wore an extremely quaint and pretty dress. The close-fitting gown was of fawn-coloured cotton, with sleeves square and open at the wrist. Over the gown was a dark blue cotton petticoat, with small white spots, which, reaching only to within six inches from the ground, showed a narrow strip of fawn colour beneath. A heavy kerchief of black material covered the shoulders, and was crossed over CHAP. III. FORT GAKEY. 33 tlie bosom ; a black poke-bonnet, above a plain white cap, completed the costume. A gilt crucifix hung from a girdle round the waist. Moccasins were worn instead of shoes, according to the universal custom of the country, to which even the bishops conformed. These excellent nuns educated about forty children, mostly from among the French popula- tion. We had the pleasure of seeing a few of the pupils, whom Sister C very obligingly sent for, asking them to give us some specimens of their progress in music. Two nice-looking dark girls of fourteen first came in, and played several pieces on a piano-forte, — which, I confess, it surprised me to see in this remote and inaccessible land ; then two pretty little fair-haired children took their place, and, lilce the others, played in a pleasing and very creditable manner. The institution was universally spoken of as most useful and popular, and as being in all respects remarkably well conducted. Fort Garry was amply provided with churches, for besides the two gTcater edifices known as the cathedrals, there was a large place of worship for the Presbyterians, who formed a numerous and important body. I used in general to attend service at the Protestant Cathedral, where the Bishop himself officiated. Its interior was of extreme plainness ; but one thinks little of that where all is simple and without pretence. Though the Presbyterian psalms and hymns were not iu use, it was easy to see that the Scottish race prevailed in the con- gregation, — the tunes and the manner of singing so forcibly recalling the sober, deliberate fashion of my own country, that I could scarcely believe myself thousands of miles away in the innermost heart of America. On the Assiniboine, a mile or two off, there is another Episcopalian settlement, named St. James's. I walked there D 34 FORT GARRY. chap. hi. one afternoon with Dr. Eae, and called on the Eev. Mr. Taylor, the incumbent, who showed us the church, — a pretty though simple building, the interior ornamented with texts and other designs, all painted by himself, — then hos- pitably invited us to tea. In the parsonage drawing-room our attention was called to a picture of the Queen (a formerly well-known portrait from the Illustrated London News), which had been framed and conspicuously hung on the wall. It appeared that Indians often came expressly to see it, having strong feelings of loyalty to the sovereign ; one old chief especially, a recent visitor there, had insisted on being allowed to kiss her Majesty's portrait in token of his loving homage. Thursday, the XQth of June, was a notable day at Fort Garry. The first steamer that had yet navigated the Eed Eiver made her appearance that morning, bringing two or three passengers from Minnesota. "Ans Northup" was the name of this small, shabby, stern-wheel boat, mean and insig- nificant in itself, but important as the harbinger of new developments of what Americans are pleased to call civilisa- tion. Crowds of Indians stood silently on the shore, watching the arrival of this strange portentous object. Little thought they how ominous a sight it was for them, fraught with pre- sages of ruin for all their wandering race ! I know not whether these natives were Crees or Ojibways. They were an ugly, hard-featured set. One woman only had some good looks, and these chiefly consisted in the marvellous whiteness and regularity of her teeth. Like many of the others she carried a child on her back carefully wrapped up in the folds of her thick blanket, and looking warm and comfortable in its nest. A fe'w Cree families had made their small encampment CHAP. III. FORT GARRY. 35 on the prairie outside, near the Fort ; they were dirty, gipsy- like people, neither handsome, interesting, nor picturesque. I observed one of the little boys driving his father's horses home by shooting blunt arrows at them with all the force of a by no means despicable bow. From his very childhood the Indian learns inhumanity to animals. By the 14th all my preparations were complete. I was fortunate in securing the services of a thoroughly competent guide — that is to say, head man — in John M'Kay, a younger brother of our energetic leader from Crow-wing. Under him were four men belonging to his own district — Morrison M'Beath and Donald Matheson, of unmixed Sutherlandshire descent ; George Kline,* of the French-Canadian race ; and James Short, whom I have already spoken of — all of them picked men, perfectly up to their work, excellent fellows in every possible respect. Besides this Eed Eiver party, there was Duncan Eobertson, who came with me from Scot- land ; also Sir George's canoe-man, Thomas Ariwakenha, the Iroquois, commonly known as Toma, whose duties con- sisted in driving the waggon, cooking my meals, and, along with Duncan, acting as my special attendant. Under charge of this efficient brigade there was gathered together a very considerable amount of property of every sort and kiad — horses and vehicles, weapons, provisions, and stores : — three new two-wheel carts, and the four-wheel wag- gon already mentioned, all filled to the brim with various sorts of baggage ; my own canvas tent (the same one I had used before), a large beU-tent for the men, oil- cloth squares, blankets, clothes and other personal goods ; bales of tea and * The name is sometimes spelt Klyne or Cline, the spelling being varied even in the Company's account books. In pronunciation the i is sounded as y, not as e. 36 FORT GAREY. ohap. hi. sugar, sacks of flour and rice ; biscuits, jam, and eggs, and dried tongues in plenty to keep us in food till we got fresh meat in the buffalo country ; many pounds of the Company's excellent flat " plug " tobacco for myself and my men ; an immense 90 lb. roll of the rather coarser twist, for the especial benefit of the Indians. Then we had a great G[uantity of goods of another descrip- tion, — such as a large copper box of rifle powder, kegs of com- mon powder, bullets, shot, and caps ; a variety of weapons ; axes, hammers, saws, a canteen, a portable table, and a camp- stool, cooking utensils, etc. ; in short, we were provided with more than every requisite for the plains, besides extra supplies to furnish the customary presents to any Indian parties we might chance to meet. There was one deficiency, according to some people's notions : I took no wine or spirits with me, nor allowed any to be taken, except a few bottles of rum. But little use was made even of this, and I afterwards left the greater part of it at Fort Carlton. What troubles and difficulties this saved me from I can only guess — from a great many, no doubt. We ought, however, to have had a small store of brandy for medicinal purposes. Indeed, I rather felt the want of stimu- lants when exhausted by hard work in the mountains. To draw the waggon there were four horses — my former purchases, Paul and Anthony, and two white horses of much the same size as these, the one called Lane and the other Wawbe^, which, in Cree, means " white." For the carta there were seven smaller beasts, the biggest of them scarcely more than a pony. Their names were as follows : — Deserter, Nez-Blanc, Gris, Mouldy, Spot, Bleu, and Little Black — uninteresting animals aU, that cost on an average about £13 apiece. As this list may indicate, the half-breeds generally name their CHAP. m. FORT GARRY. 37 horses according to colour or marldng or other peculiarity, but sometimes after a former owner {e.g. Lane) ; sometimes, also, though more rarely, after a circumstance or a place, or occa- sionally in an altogether unmeaning way. Then there were two buffalo-runners — a silver-tailed white pony, afterwards known as Wal^pooss (the Eabbit), a name suggested by his remarkable countenance ; and " Great Black," a large, well-bred horse, — ^which, with the last-men- tioned, I bought from James M'Kay, — reputed the fastest runner in the settlement, but too unmanageable to be gene- rally useful. Last, but best, came my favourite riding-ponies, Morgan and his companion Vermont. My guns and saddle had not arrived at St. Paul before our departure from that place ; so, by Sir George's directions, John M'Kay and another man had waited there to receive them and immediately bring them on. The things soon came to hand, upon which ]\I'Kay made rapid work, and reached Fort Garry just four days later than we did. It was with anxiety that I opened the gun-cases, but, excepting a few trifliug rust spots, my precious weapons had taken no harm, after all the risks of damage they had rim since I parted from them at the New York Custom-House. As I afterwards discovered, half the number would have served my purpose, for, having little means to judge what was really needful, I had been erring far too zealously on what seemed the safer side. Of aU the armament, I held in infinite preference a pair of two-grooved double-barrelled rifles, by Purdey. A better pair no maker could possibly turn out. They have been immensely used, and in pretty trying service sometimes, but to this day they remain as good as when I first handled them some eighteen or nineteen years ago. They carry a 38 FORT GAREY. oiiap.iii. medium-sized, but very deadly, conical ball. My other rifle was one of large bore, by Dickson in Edinburgh ; a good one, I believe, but, on account of its weight, I hardly ever used it, not finding bullets of great size to be required. I had also a pair of excellent Purdey shot-guns, of No. 12 gauge, which, at close quarters, could throw round bullets most effectively. Besides these, I took a five-chambered revolving rifle, and a pistol of the same description, of the Colt manufacture. The latter I never used ; the former shot well, but I disliked it for reasons afterwards mentioned. These were the only breech-loaders I possessed, that sort of weapon being little employed for sporting purposes until a year or two afterwards. My men had various guns and rifles of their own ; none were worth much, except a highly-serviceable double-barrelled gun belonging to M'Kay, of the best possible pattern for general use in that country. It was as thick in the metal as a rifle, and carried a bullet accurately to more than a hundred yards, and as its bore was of the size (28) universal in the Company's trade, supplies of ball could be got anywhere and almost from any person. Small as these bullets are — for, being round, they had none of the expansion of a conical ball, especially a flanged one such as that shot by my rifles, which were really but little different in the gauge — they are large enough, if well directed, to kill any beast in America ; stores of them, moreover, can be carried in little bulk — an inestimable advantage for the ordinary hunter. This handy and neatly-finished gun, which was made in London at a trifling cost [£12 if I rightly remember], could also throw shot with a power that I have never seen equalled. Good as my Purdey smooth-bores were, M'Kay used to kill ducks at distances fairly beyond my range. During the march I generally carried a rifle resting on a FORT GAERY. 39 roUed-up waterproof strapped to my saddle-bow, soon learning to poise it so that it almost steadied itself ; and M'Kay in- variably carried bis gun, balancing it in a similar manner between his own body and the high front-peak of his narrow Spanish saddle. My men also kept their weapons within reach, several guns and rifles always lying loaded in the carts, ready in case of an emergency ; and all of the party were furnished with more or less formidable knives, some even with good-sized military swords that had once formed part of the equipment of a Eifle Corps. We were, in short, a strongly-armed and sufficiently numerous company, able to bid defiance to any such small Indian band as that of the Pillagers of Lake Otter-tail. RED RIVER FIRE-BAG. CHAPTER IV. FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE. June 15th. — After a fortnigM's preparation and delays, my arrangements were at length completed, and by 5 o'clock that afternoon the expedition was faiTly under weigh and pro- ceeding steadily forward on its western course. Our first march was not a long one ; we had not meant it to be so ; we had been only desirous to emerge from the neigh- bourhood of the Fort, so as to gather all into due place and order, and to shake off that spirit of lingering whose influ- ences impede the traveller when within the sphere of settle- ments. We were now encamped at Sturgeon Creek, some few miles on our journey. The weather was fine, everything worked smoothly, all promised well for the morrow. June 16th. — We halted a few hours at White Horse Plains, where I dined at the Fort with Mr. Lane, the gentle- man in charge of that station. The whole place was swarm- ing with half-breed hunters and their families, who, with in- numerable carts and horses, were gathering there preparatory to their start for the prairies on their great annual summer buffalo hunt. I was glad to escape from this scene of noise and con- fusion, when we were at length enabled to resume our march ; but by that time it had grown late, so we only went some CHAP. IV. FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLIOE. 41 seven or eight miles farther, and halted in a prairie, making our camp beside a grove of young willows. June 1*7 th. — At dawn of day I was awakened by a most delicious concert of birds singing in the bushes round my tent. The air was pure and fresh, the low rays of the sun gleamed on the dewy herbage, all nature was full of cheer- fulness, and the pretty songsters tuned their voices to an encouraging strain. As they fluttered around me, they seemed to beckon me forward, and their notes took the form of words, crying with endless reiteration — This-is-the-path ; Oh-this-is-the-way ! Sometimes one with a very deep voice would sing all alone — ^This-is-the-path ; then a hundred voices would answer him rapturously in the shrillest treble, with — Oh-this-is-the- way ; and then all would unite together and chorus forth their little ditty again and again. We were off by 5 o'clock this morning, but our progress was not very great, interruptions and delays occurring at every turn, chiefly on horse-dealing business, which is always a tedious affair. I added two capital animals to my lot — "Blond," otherwise "M'GiUis," a handsome chestnut with long wavy mane and tail, — sleek and immensely fat, which is here counted the greatest of merits, as bespeaking plenteous winter keep and corresponding stores of substance for future wear and tear ; and " La Framboise," a Saskatchewan-bred brown, too lean, but strong and hardy-looking ; both of them were very sei-viceable cart-horses, fit enough even for the waggon. I thought " Blond" by no means a dear bargain at £18 ; for "La Framboise" I gave to the hunter from whom his name was derived £15, likewise also little Black, who was much too weak for harness and too small for the saddle. 42 FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLIOE. chap. iv. Suvday, June 19th. — After a talk with M'Kay, I settled to have a complete halt on Sundays. [I made this rule from no strict Sabbatarian reasons, but from a belief that the special weekly holiday would be good for man and beast ; a reminder of home ties for the former, and a useful rest for both. The Scottish settlers seldom shoot on Sundays, but their travelling goes on without difference, so my rule was rather a novelty. These breaks in the journey answered well enough in summer, but had to be given up when cold weather set in. Delay then becomes too dangerous. Thirty below zero is a great stimulator, especially when food runs short, and supplies are few and far between. The camp was very unwholesomely placed within a dozen yards of a large mosquito-haunted marsh, whence the boom of the bittern resounded at intervals, like the distant roaring of a bull. My hardy men never thought of such things as damp and miasma, nor, to tell the truth, did I, yet probably many a troublesome symptom arose from camping in such swampy places, though our healthy active habits saved us from serious illness. At this camp I passed two wretched nights, unwell with- out suspecting the cause, but moving on Monday to higher ground the change at once cured me. Perhaps some hours in the swamp, wading knee-deep after ducks and bitterns, had done me more mischief than I knew of.] While here I received a visit from Mr. Simpson and his half-brother, who were on their way to Fort Garry. They stayed an hour or two, and had dinner in my tent. The former had come straight from Fort Pitt, on the Saskatchewan, where, till lately, he had been the ofhcer in charge. He brought the unwelcome news that the Crees and Blackfeet were at the point of going to war. This, it was evident, would OHAP. IV. FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE. 43 interfere with my intended journey to the Elbow of the South Saskatchewan ; it appeared, however, that very little game was left in those parts, the four years' peace between the tribes having enabled them to hunt on that generally debate- able ground. It seemed likely that I should have to take the usual route after all, through a country disturbed by constant traffic, with no chance of sport for at least three weeks. But nothing could be reaUy known tiU we got to Fort EUice, so I continued to hope for the best. Among Mr. Simpson's horses was one said to be an excellent buffalo-runner, and finding he wished to sell it, I availed myself of the chance, and bought it from him. This animal originally came from the Columbia Eiver, and for some time belonged to Nahtooss, a Blackfoot chief. " Bichon " was the pony's name, on account of his yellowish hue, — but the paleness of his creamy fawn-coloured skin was hand- somely relieved by the blackness of his mane and tail. He was upwards of fourteen hands high, rather bare-hipped, angular, and coarse-headed, strong however, and on the whole not bad looking. June 20th. — Anxious to get forward, we made an extra long march, starting at 4.30 a.m., and going on till 8.30 p.m., with a couple of halts of two hours each. This took us so far that we camped near the point where the hunters' south- ward road diverged from the westerly track to Fort Ellice, — our own future line. Much did I long for the departure of our noisy companions, whose presence scared aU the game away, and robbed the beautiful deserts of their peaceful, soothing loneliness. Nature has done much for the country we had been traversing that day, and the bright summer sunshine did something for it too. It was pleasant to ex- change the miserable swamps for low hills of a light and A LOB-STICK, U FOET GARRY TO PORT ELLIOE. ohap. iv. sandy soil, covered with poplar groves dotted with scattered spruces ; or for open plains, some flat, some undulating, but all sound and hard and dry, and redolent of warmth. I was weary of the half-breeds, and their wasteful, destruc- tive ways. Everywhere their ravages met the eye. Trees ruthlessly cut down or disfigured ; young poplars barked for their sap ; noble spruces shorn of their branches, — a wretched top-knot left to keep the tree ahve, that it might bear some jovial voyageur's name, whose " lob-stick" it had been created, after a whisky- drinking over the ruin. Fervently as I wished them away, it cheered one's spirits to see the hunters on their march. There was infinite pic- turesqueness about them. Their long moving columns sparkled with life and gaiety. Cart-tilts of every hue flashed brightly in the sun, hosts of wild wolfish dogs ran in and out among the vehicles, troops of loose horses pranced and galloped alongside. The smartly-dressed men were riding their showiest steeds, their wives and daughters were travelling in the carts, enthroned on high heaps of baggage. Many of the women were clearly of unmingled Indian blood. Tall and angular, long masses of straight black hair fell over their backs ; blue and white cotton gowns, shapeless, stayless, uncrinoHned, displayed the flatness of their unprojecting figures. Some wore a gaudy handkerchief on the head, the married bound one also across the bosom. In M. B — — 's first cart there sat a singularly handsome girl, a dark-complexioned maiden of the mixed French descent. As with so many of her race, her countenance bore a half-shy, half-disdainful expression : she looked like one who would be amiable to few, ill-tempered to most, but true to the death to her husband or her lover. CHAV. IV. FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE. 45 The hunters were all in their summer clothing, wearing the usual brass-buttoned blue capot, with moleskin trowsers and calico shirts. "Wide-awakes, or cloth caps with peaks, were the favourite head-coverings. Gaily-embroidered saddle- cloths and belts were evidently preferred to those of a less showy appearance ; red, white, and blue beading, on a black cloth ground, seemed to form the most general arrangement. Mr. E , who accompanied us part of the way and slept that night at my camp, rode beside us on a well-bred old white horse adorned with showy red-and-black trappings. He himself wore the dark-blue capot, a black cap, and black moleskin trowsers and moccasins, and to English notions looked a most ixnsportsmanlike figure, but like all the rest he rode gracefully and well. They sit very upright, with the leg nearly straight up and down. Their saddles are exceedingly small, either mere Indian pads, or narrow Spanish frames, high before and behind, with a long peak to the front. Over such a frame they strap "''''''"^sIddle'''""™ a blanket, and sometimes also place another beneath, but nothing can keep these iU-contrived saddles from galling the horses' backs. JivTW 21st. — M'Kay had spoken much about the dangerous position of our camp, as lying in the direct war-path of the Sioux, so when in the morning it was reported that Black, Morgan, and Vermont were amissing, I feared that they were lost for ever. Happily they had only strayed, and not more than an hour was wasted in tracking and recovering the wanderers. This was another lovely day, but, for all that, we rejoiced when a thunderstorm came on, for it drove away those pests ^^^ 46 FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE. chap. iv. — the venomous, eye-blinding, hard-skinned, little sand-flies. Yesterday another enemy had troubled us — certain huge- headed gadflies, of hornet appearance, that are commonly known as " bulldogs." Darting on man or horse, the wretch gives one short bite with his scissory clippers, — then off like a flash, leaving a poisoned and bleeding wound. ' The insect tribe is a perfect curse ; one has no rest or peace. Mosquitoes on the wet ground and sandflies in the dry, buU-dogs in the sunshine, bugs in the oakwoods, ants everywhere — it is maddening. . . . The fever caused by these bites is what most distresses me. It is worst at night, when one gets warm in bed ; all the veins swell and glow, and seem full of liquid fire.' .... After dinner we were detained till three o'clock by another thunderstorm, and then made a four hours' march through a prairie country with numerous small lakes abounding in ducks. I shot a few, but my sport was much interfered with by a dog we had brought with us — a retriever that would not retrieve. This detestable animal, Hector by name, a large, red, curly-coated water-spaniel, I had bought rather hastily from a man at Eed Eiver, who gave him a high character ; but the dog was an impostor and a nuisance. He would go into the water after a dead or wounded duck, secure it zealously, and bring it with him in the most promising style, but on coming near shore he always dropped it just out of your reach, and no persuasion could make him fetch it an inch farther. Sometimes he amused himself by running forward and putting everything up. It was hard to say if he were more knave or fool — and the beast was a coward too. Good nature was his only merit, and it did not long avert his doom. cHAi'. IV. FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE. 47 M'Kay became rather unwell in course of the evening ; happily it was nothing very serious, and some simple remedies taken under my advice— for in the absence of better practi- tioners I had to act as doctor for the party — proved perfectly successful in making a cure. I was now begianing to know more about my men, and greatly they all pleased me, as well they might. — ' My men go on very well ; I like them all. John M'Kay I like, .... he is my head man (guide, as we understand the term, I can scarcely call him, for he knows but little of the road, and did not profess to) — a steady good man, clever with horses, carts, or anything ; he manages the other men admirably, and suits me exceedingly well. ' Matheson is a jolly, handsome young Scotsman, singing snatches of gay songs aU the day. M'Beath, a Scotsman too, grave, tall, and gentlemanlike. Kline, of the mixed French descent, active, clever, and very obliging. Short, a Scotch half-breed, more Indian in his ways than Scotch, an extraordinarily active lad, a perfect shot with either gun, arrow, stick, or stone. ' Toma, the Iroquois, is generally grave in look, but gets on well with the rest, — they are always joking together. I find him very attentive and useful. He sings pleasantly monotonous canoe-songs as he drives my waggon, sitting under the shade of a canvas tilt.' [These extracts are partly from my journal, partly from a letter written about that date. I dwell more fully on the same subject afterwards.] June 22d. — We arrived this afternoon at the Eapid Eiver, sometimes called the Little Saskatchewan,* and scowed across without much labour or difficulty. This stream, where we * The word Saskatchewan signiiies — The river that runs swift. 48 "FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLIOE. chap. iv. crossed it, was about thirty yards wide, and of no great depth or body of water. The western banks in the vicinity are high, and prettily clothed with trees, which come down the grassy slopes in groups and patches projected boldly from the larger woods that crown the summit. M'Kay went forward a mile or two and camped on the top of the bank, at the very edge of the descent. Meanwhile I took a turn with Matheson to look for deer in the woods, but ' we got nothing, and the mosquitoes got us ; they were perfectly dreadful.' Even the camp-fires did not keep them away that night ; they ' came right into the smoke of the fires, and bit like tigers.' During most of the day's march I rode Vermont, who was by no means as great a favourite as Morgan, though not without his good qualities. — ' Vermont has gone much better since I took to wearing spurs. He is a nice little beast, with funny sly ways of his own. His ears are remarkably small, and he constantly keeps them pricked forward, which adds to his cunning and sagacious appearance.' June 23d — A fine day, but spoiled by two or three thunderstorms, one especially heavy while it lasted. After breakfast I walked on before the carts and shot ducks till dinner time. I only bagged four, though double that number fell, and even for these I was obliged to wade in hip-deep every time, for the useless retriever as usual refused to bring them out. The country was of the prairie sort, and rather flat than undulating, but every small hollow had its swamp or lake, ia which innumerable ducks made their abode. About camping time we came to a pretty piece of water, known as Salt Lake, but as its quality answered to its name we did not halt there, but passed on a mile or so farther. Three notable mischances befell us to-day. M'Kay lost CHAP. IV. FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE. 49 his whip, I lost a particularly good knife, and, worst of all, my watch stopped, and though I set it agoing it never could be trusted afterwards. June 2Aih. — Having started about 5 a.m., we arrived at breakfast time at Shoal Lake, another very pretty sheet of water, which cannot be much less than ten miles in length. There was an agreeable variety of animal life on its well- Avooded shores. First we observed a wolf prowling round the camp, whereupon we took our guns and gave chase, but he escaped into the brushwood. Then, a moment or two after, as I was returning from the fruitless pursuit, I saw a moderate-sized, black and white, bushy-tailed animal moving slowly among the thick bushes, and shot it, chiefly from motives of curiosity. It was a skunk,* a much handsomer creature than might be supposed, and not offensive if killed dead on the spot, as happened in this instance — very fortunately ! for he was close to the place where our breakfasts were preparing. Soon afterwards I tried my rifle at a loon swimming far out on the lake, but he escaped by rapid diving, an accom- plishment which renders this bird proverbially hard to hit : a modern express would probably be too quick even for him, but my rifles, though fast of their kind, carry no heavier charge of powder than the 2| drachms generally given to two-grooves of that date and pattern. Before starting, I made a grand turn-out of my armament, the baggage being in such confusion that nothing was ever available when wanted in a hurry. I now had the gun- cases neatly arranged in the waggon, putting the more im- portant uppermost, and disposing their contents so that anything could be got at in a moment when required. This * Mephites Americana, var. Tlviilsomca^ The Bvdson's Bay Skunk. See- cawk—Cvee Indians. — Riohakdson, Faun. Bor.-Am. vol. i. p. 55. E 50 FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLIOE. chap. iv. business finished after great expenditure of trouble, I tra- velled for variety's sake in the now orderly waggon till dinner time, but it was very jolty work, so I had Bichon saddled, and rode for the rest of the day. — ' He went well, and is evidently used to gaUop on rough ground, but he was tiresomely anxious to stay with the other horses, and when forced to go on, neighed incessantly, driving away, of course, any game that might chance to be near.' I got M'Kay to try him, thinking he would perhaps go more quietly under his hand, but it naade no difference, it was a habit that had yet to be cured. June 2bth. — A short march before breakfast brought us into the vale of the Assiniboine, up which we pursued our way in the midst of a heavy thunderstorm, till, having come nearly opposite Fort EUice, we halted and camped. The river at this part of its course flows on with many windings through levels overgrown with brush and timber. The valley, above a mile in width, is bounded by high wooded banks on either side. It was a pretty landscape, although much was hidden by the rain ; this partial concealment, however, tended to magnify the distances, and add to the scene more importance than really belonged to it. In the afternoon M'Kay and I rode on together to Fort EUice, which is beautifully situated at the edge of the glen of Beaver Creek, a deep, wooded ravine that cuts its way at right angles through the hiUs of the Assiniboine vale. At the river-side we found a clumsy old scow, in which we took our horses across ; then we ascended a high bank by a very steep and difficult road, which led us to our destination, where we were hospita.bly received by the superintendent, Mr. M'Kay, accompanied by his father, aretii'ed Company's officer, who was at that time assisting in the management of the Post. CHAP. IV. FORT GARRY TO PORT ELLICE. 51 After tea we rode back again, returning to camp before dayligbt had quite departed. Sunday, June 2Qth. — Having so little distance to go, we resolved to cross, and camp in the neighbourhood of the Fort. My men were all busy with the crossing, so T rode on by myself, and, arriving in time to join Mr. M'Kay at dinner, had the pleasure of sharing in some fresh buffalo-tongues which he had lately brought back with him from the plains, where some of his people were still engaged in a hunt. These tongues were excellent, as juicy and tender as possible, and came doubly welcome after the perpetual salt meat of the last ten days. Early in the afternoon the carts made their appearance, having got safely through considerable difficulties both at the river and the hill ; and a place well separated from the Fort, though not far off, was fixed upon as the site of our encamp- ment. I chose for my own tent-site a sandy level platform at the edge of a precipitous banlf, 300 feet high, that over- hangs the Beaver Creek where it is about a quarter of a mile across. It was a pretty place : as I sat on the camp-stool near my door, I could see to the very bottom of the deep ravine, and follow the windings of its course far upwards and downwards, till it lost itself in the distance on either side. Two Indians, an Ojibway and a man of some different tribe, paid me a visit, and were treated to a dinner and a smoke. They were evidently interested in my map of British America, and seemed quite able to understand it, making shrewd remarks about several topographical matters. June 27