I ) CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND GIVEN IN 1 89 1 BY HENRY WILLIAMS SAGE iv 1 8 "'^^ ly 29 '3S Wy 2 91941? AUG2 7i352e N0V26l95ZMp: Cornell University Library GT3844.S7 R39 Inns of old Southwark and their assoc olin 3 1924 032 404 950 m Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924032404950 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK AND THEIR ASSOCIATIONS -\ THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK AND THEIR ASSOCIATIONS By WILLIAM RENDLE, F.R.C.S. AUTHOR OF 'OLD SOOTHWARK AND ITS PEOPLE' AND PHILIP NORMAN, F.S.A. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS ' Our minds fixed on the future, our lives busy in the present, may God preserve to us our hold on the past ' LONDON LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. AND NEW YORK: 15 EAST i6th STREET 1888 S IV, \~V \.-HilO°\0^ V PREFACE That portion of Old Southwark and its People devoted to the Southwark Inns has evidently pleased a great number of readers, among them my esteemed colleague, who appears with me on the title-page of this work. It led him as an antiquary to devote much study to the subject, and as an artist to gather many original drawings and copies of old and authentic representations of the inns. Happily the sources are not scanty^ — the British Museum, the Guildhall Library, and the wonderful private Collection of Mr. Gardner, are full of interesting examples ; those which are public can of course be easily seen, and ready help is always afforded to the student. Mr. Gardner's Collection is thrown open with great liberality to every serious inquirer, and by his kind permission we have freely availed ourselves of it. I had already got together a large quantity of interesting material, intending, so far as I could, a more elaborate account of the inns, the breweries, and their associations, than is contained in the pages of Old PREFACE Southwark. Mr. Norman and I have happily agreed together, and have spared no trouble to make as good a book as our labour — a labour of love — could produce. And here I would add that my friend has the advantage over me, for while I have done little or nothing to help him in his illustrative pictures he has done a great deal to help me, with many valuable additions, hints, and corrections of the letterpress ; he has also compiled the Index. In short, we have been fellow -workers, with mutual satisfaction, for years. Now at length our labour is over, and the book put forth ; and we venture to hope that the public apprecia- tion which can alone reward us, and which we have endeavoured to deserve, will not be withheld. WILLIAM RENDLE. CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE Introduction . ... . . i CHAPTER H Ale and the Brewers . .... 24 CHAPTER HI The Anchor Brewery . . . . 56 CHAPTER IV The Inns — Ram's Head— Fleur-de-lis— Walnut Tree Inn— Chequers — Boar's Head— Ship — King's Head . . . .85 CHAPTER V The White Hart — George — Southwark Fire of 1676 . .128 CHAPTER VI The Tabard ..... . 169 CHAPTER VII St. Margaret's Church — Town Hall — Queen's Head Inn — Three Tuns — Spur — Nag's Head — Axe and Bottle Yard . . 202 CONTENTS CHAPTER VIII PAGE Southwark Fair — Plays at Inns — Half Moon — White Swan— Griffin — Prize Fighters in Southwark . . 230 CHAPTER IX Mint Marriages — Tumbledown Dick — Harrow — Old Bull — Dun Horse — Gaols — Black Bull — Angels — Catherine Wheel — Dog and Bear ...... 256 CHAPTER X May Pole Alley— Red Lion — Greyhound — Bell— Green Dragon — Bull's Head— Bear at Bridge Foot . 284 CHAPTER XI Montague Close— Stoney Street— Dog and Duck— Deadman's Place — Clink — Bankside— St. Saviour's Token Books — Globe — Elephant— Stews — Rose— Unicorn— Horse Shoe . 317 CHAPTER XII The Falcon — Sir Christopher Wren — Iron Railings round St. Paul's — Paris Garden— Goldsmiths' Arms or Finch's Grotto — Old King's Arms, Surrey Row — St. George's Fields — Apollo Gardens — Dog and Duck . . 350 CHAPTER XIII The Elephant and Castle— Playhouse at Newington Butts— Bull, Old Kent Road— Lock Hospital— Southwark Bar— Lock Bridge- Bricklayers' Arms— St. Thomas a Watering— Bermondsey Spa — Jamaica House . . . , ,-0 Appendix 403 ILLUSTRATIONS FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS Artist. ROCQUE J. R. Weguelin . Philip Norman Philip Norman . Philip Norman G. P. JACOMB Hood G. P. jACOMB Hood Philip Norman . George Shepherd Philip Norman . ViSSCHER Rocque John Ogilby Date. 1746 i88s 1 88s 1885 iSio 1884 1616 1746 1789 i67S Description. Map of High Street, Southwark, and neighbourhood . To face pa^e i George Inn Yard, beginning of the century Frontispiece The White Hart Inn Yard, east side of High Street . To face page \a,% Back of White Hart Inn, looking west, evening In the Gallery of the White Hart George Inn, east side of High Street, view from inner yard . Interior of Dining-room of George Inn .... George Inn Yard, south side, showing the balustrades Yard of the Tabard or Talbot Inn Back of Queen's Head from Inner Yard .... Booth with Players at Southwark Fair .... Bear at Bridge Foot and Southwark end of Old London Bridge Map of Bankside Interior of Dog and Duck, St. George's Fields Map of Pilgrims' Road through Southwark towards Canterbury ,, 386 149 150 167 170 201 238 315 324 372 ILL US TRA TIONS ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT Artist. Date. F. W. Fairholt . 17th cent. E. MORANT Cox . 1886 Philip Norman . 1886 J. C. Buckler 1827 George Scharf sen. . 1828 J. C. BnCKLER 1827 J. C. Buckler 1827 C. N. M'Intyre North E. Morant Cox . Philip Norman . C. N. M'Intyre North J. C. Buckler Philip Norman . H. G. Moon . Philip Norman . G. P. Jacomb Hood E. Morant Cox . E. Morant Cox . G. P, Jacomb Hood C. N. M'Intyre North E. Morant Cox , 1865 1865 1827 1884 1886 I88'; 1885 1885 I72I 1865 Description. Page Trade Token of Lion and Lamb . 17 Tapster chalking up the score ... 26 Drawer with Jug and Goblet . . 27 Anchor Public-house at Bankend . 83 Sign of the Old Red Cock .... 87 Chequer Yard on the east side of High Street 97 Trade Token of the Chequers Inn . -103 Baxter's Coffee-house, or No. 19 High Street 105 Boar's Head Court, east side of High Street 113 Trade Token of Boar's Head . . .114 Old Ship Inn, east side of High Street . 117 Trade Token of Duke of Suffolk's Head 120 Trade Token of King's Head . . .123 Ground-plan of King's Head Inn Yard, east side of High Street .... 124 The King's Head Inn, 1827 (from old drawings . . . .125 The last of the King's Head Inn, pulled down January 1885 .... 126 Ground-plan of the White Hart Inn, east side of Pligh Street . . . .130 The White Hart Inn .... 145 Old houses in the inner yard of the White Hart 149 Trade Token of the George Inn . . -157 Entrance to George Inn Yard from the High Street ... . . 162 Interior of Taproom of George Inn . .163 Central Staircase to Galleries on north side of George Inn Yard . . . .164 Stable belonging to the George Inn . . 165 Old Leaden Cistern, George Inn Yard 166 Wrought-iron Safe, office of Mr. R. P. Evans, George Inn Yard 167 The Tabard (from Urry's Chaucer), east side of High Street . . . .190 Ground-plan of the Talbot Inn . . . 199 Talbot Inn Yard just previous to its demolition 200 ILLUSTRATIONS Artist. Date 1600 E. MORANT Cox . 188s Philip Norman . 1883 J. C. Buckler 1827 J. C. Buckler 1828 J. C. Buckler 1827 E. MoRANT Cox . 1885 E. MoRANT Cox . 1885 Philip Norman 1885 E. MoRANT Cox . 1885 E. MORANT Cox 1885 Photograph 1888 E. MORANT Cox . 1885 E. MORANT Cox . 1885 E. MORANT Cox . 1885 E. MORANT Cox . 1885 E. MORANT Cox 1885 T. H. Shepherd . 1853 J, C. Buckler 1827 T. H. Shepherd H. M. Marshall , F. Nash Philip Norman 1853 1885 1 80s 1850 {circa) 1887 1786 Description. Page St. Margaret's Hill .... 203 Old Mantelpiece, Queen's Head Inn . 210 Queen's Head Inn, east side of High Street 211 Three Tuns Inn Yard, east side of High Street 216 Three Tuns Public - house, Jacob Street, Bermondsey . . . 217 Trade Token of Three Swans . . . 218 Spur Inn, east side of High Street . 219 Remains of the Spur Inn . . 220 Trade Token of the Spur Inn . 221 Crane, Nag's Head Inn Yard . . . 222 Nag's Plead Inn Yard, east side of High Street (looking west) . . . 223 Nag's Head Inn Yard, east side of High Street (looking east) . . . 224 Old Watering-trough, Nag's Head Inn Yard 225 Sign of King's Arms Public-house, south side of Newcomen Street . . . 229 Half Moon Inn, east side of High Street 244 Interior of Hanging Gallery, Half Moon Inn 245 Trade Token of Cock, Southwark . . 257 Old Staircase, Dun Horse Inn . . . 268 Entrance to disused Dun Horse Inn, west side of High Street . . . .269 Old Fireplace, Dun Horse Inn . . 270 Catherine Wheel Inn, west side of High Street 28 1 Dog and Bear Inn, west side of High Street 282 Trade Token of Bell Inn, west side of High Street . .... 293 Trade Token of Bull Head Inn . . 298 Trade Token of Swan with Two Necks 301 Trade Token of Bear at Bridge Foot . .312 George Public-house, Stoney Street . . 320 Smiths' Arms, Bankside ... 341 King's Arms Public - house, east side of Blackman Street 34^ South view of Falcon Tavern, Bankside 354 Old King's Arms, Surrey Row . . .365 Stone Sign of Dog and Duck in garden wall of Bethlehem Hospital . . . .369 Old Elephant and Castle Inn, Newington Butts 380 ILL USTRA TIONS Artist. ROCQUE J. C. Buckler J. C. Buckler Date. 1746 1828 1827 Description. Page Map showing site of Lock Hospital, Bull Inn, etc . 383 Old Houses, partly Cooper's Arms Inn, Russell Street, Bermondsey . . . 399 South or Garden View of Jamaica House, Bermondsey 400 / ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS In a book crowded with facts and figures a few slight mistakes are almost inevitable. We subjoin a list of those observed too late for correction in the text, and also one or two additional notes. Page 4, note 2, for 'J. Dawson Turner,' read ' T. Hudson Turner.' „ 18, line 13, for ' 1648,' read ' 1648-49.' The king's execution took place on the 30th of January 1649, according to our present reckoning, but at that time the English year began on the 25th of March. The trade tokens marked 1648 are supposed to have been issued after the former and before the latter date. „ 35, line 4 from hot, for 'Green,' read ' Greene.' ,, 86, line 12 from ioot, for 'A Ram, in the meat market,' read 'A Ram, in the meal market.' ,, 94, line 10, for ' 1789,' read' 1757.' ,, 94, hne 12, for 'nearly one hundred years, read 'ministers of the congregation which originally met at Horselydown, for the long period of 1 16 years, from 1720 to 1836.' „ IIS, last line, for ' Hithenson,' read ' Hichenson.' „ 118, line 6, for ' 174°,' read ' 1746.' ,, 119, line 13. Mr. Julian Marshall, ike authority on Tennis, kindly suggests that ' Tenys place ' should be ' Tenys plays : ' thus it is x>n record that there was a grant ' of the portership of Ludlow Castle, and of the tennis play there.' He also thinks that ' Clossh-bane ' should be ' Clossh-banc ' or bank, a protect- ing boundary, most likely of use in the game, for varying the direction of the ball. 124, note, for ' 1740,' ^^^^ ' 1720,' 130, line Si/f'r ' 1749.' read ' 1746.' 133, Hne 1 1, omit 'etc' 133, note 2, for 'Roll,' read 'Rolls.' 1 34, line 1 2 from foot, for ' Was,' read ' was.' ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS Page 136, note 3, /or 'Fastolf,' read ' Fastolfe.' „ 151, line Z,for ' 1600,' read'' 1608.' ,, 151, line 9, omit 'c. 1609.' „ 156, note, for ' Chaloner,' read ' Challener.' ,, 182, line 10. John Salcote, Sulcot, or Saltcoat (Saultcot on his seal, engraved in the Monasticon), ahas Capon, D.D. of the University of Cambridge, was translated to Hyde Abbey from the Abbey of Hulm, Norfolk, in 1529, and promoted 19th April 1534 to the bishopric of JBangor, which he obtained leave to hold in commendam with the abbacy. After readily yielding up this latter at the dissolution, he was preferred, 31st July 1539, to the bishopric of Salisbury, which he held for eighteen years, when deceasing 6th October 1557, he was buried in that cathedral. See a memoir of him in Cooper's Athena Cania- brigienses, vol. i. p. 171. „ 184, line 14, 'Aubrey, in 1719.' This is misleading. Aubrey's topographical notes on Surrey were begun in 1673, and ended in 1692, but not published till 17 19, when they were incorporated in Rawlinson's Natural History and Antiquities of Surrey. ,, 205, note 2, /or ' Chaloner,' read ' Challener.' „ 226, hne 6, for ' 1580,' r^arf' 1588.' „ 276, line 4 from foot, for 'Travels, among twelve signs,' reaa travels among the signs., „ 301, line 6 from foot,/or ' 1722,' read ' 1622.' „ 305, line 5, for ' Stafford,' read ' Strafford.' „ 327, line 5 from foot, /or ' Olifant,' read ' Oliphant.' „ 336, line I, >r ' dramatist,' read ' Water Poet.' THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION In early days, that which is now Southwark, and the land about even to the hills, was either marsh, or a waste of waters with a few small islets or elevations scattered at intervals here and there. The Romans embanked the river — probably some partial work of the kind had been attempted before they came, — they shaped the ways or roads, made a station for military and social purposes, built villas, and formed here indeed an im- portant, settlement, of which traces have in later years frequently come to light. A recent writer, W. J. Loftie.^ while discussing a passage of Ptolemy the geographer, seems to affirm that Roman London itself was south of the Thames, in Cantium ; that, however, is an opinion which cannot be decided off-hand. There are many reasons for and against ; among the chief of the latter '^- 1 Historic Towns, p. 5. London. B THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK I place the interments so common in Southwark, which would be, of course, without the walls. By whatever name they knew it, the place grew into a town ; and at length new invaders — Saxons and Danes — came, and left, in a far less degree than the Romans, material marks of their existence in Southwark — a little pottery, the best but rude in comparison with Roman ware, and the obscure signs of Canute's trench, are almost all that have come down to us. In other ways, however, we find traces of them. The name Southwark — variously spelt in early chronicles — which implied a fortification bearing that aspect from London ; St. Mary Overy, meaning probably over the water, or, as later lights say, on the river bank ; Bermondsey, or Bermond's isle ; certain manorial names of the Bank- side ; the ' custumarie,' ^ and other items of minor import, tell of these old invaders. The Normans on their first advance destroyed South- wark by fire. Soon, however, they made it their home, founding priories, churches, and hospitals, still represented in our own time. A bridge had been built which followed the old line of the ford connecting London with this out- work, and nearly in the same place. London Bridge has from time to time been largely repaired and renewed, so far as might be making Southwark one with London. In successive invasions, in religious and other troubles abroad in after time, ingenious artificers and other earnest people came and settled by the river, carrying on their trades. Thus Southwark grew and prospered, and for a long time consisted of that vill or accumulation of houses 1 See Antiq. Mag., August 1882, my article on the 'Stews on Bankside.' INTRODUCTION known as the gildable manor — the manor next the river Thames. The same, no doubt, impHed in a petition of the thirtieth year of Edward III., in which the burgesses of Southwark state that they had a charter of franchise, which had been destroyed by fire, and they pray an exemphfication of enrolment of the same ; to which petition the King answered in the form, ' Let right be done.' In the fourteenth century is note of a market held at the gates of St. Thomas's Hospital for these burgesses, or ' men of Southwark town ; ' and at the same open place justice was administered by the King's Court of the Marshalsea.-' For a long time the neighbouring land was very much of a waste and a forest, and annoyed the city greatly by the fact that it afforded shelter for bad char- acters of all sorts, the access across the water being so easy, and the hiding-places many and at hand. Even as late as 1578, Fleetwood, the Recorder of London, writes to Burleigh, that the south side is dark and shadowed with trees, and is, he says, an admirable place for ' such doings, ... a bower for conspiracies, a college of male counsell.' Before 1327. the citizens had petitioned the King, informing him that felons, thieves, and other malefactors privily departed from the City into the town of Southwark, and they asked of him jurisdiction in the town. From this time the city steadily sought to increase its rights over Southwark, and obtained valuable but always limited powers, which at last culminated in the important letters 1 Hospital Muniments, MS. Ashburnham, now in B. M. Index Rolls, Parliament, vol. ii. p. 348, sect. 148. THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK patent of 23d April 1550 (3 Edward VI.), and in the appointment by the city of Sir John Ayliffe, Knight and Barber-surgeon, as the first alderman of Southwark, now designated Bridge Ward Without.^ Southwark, however, grew steadily more and more important. It was the chief thoroughfare to and from London for the southern counties, and by the coast for the busiest parts of the Continent ; a place for ' birds of passage,' 'for great receipt of people and trade, from divers shires of the realm,' and so necessarily occupied by inns in number out of all proportion to ordinary shops and dwellings. The Borough, according to a State Paper of 1619, 'consists chiefly of innkeepers.' Honest John Stow in his Survey (1598) implies almost as much. In a well-known passage he says, 'From thence (the Marshalsea), towards London Bridge on the same side, be many fair inns for the receipt of travellers ; by these signs : the Spurre, Christopher, Bull, Queen's Head, Tabard, George, Hart, King's Head,' etc. Although, as we know, some of these had been in existence between five and six hundred years ago, yet a very competent critic ^ doubts if there^ were so early any houses of hospitality in London which supplied, besides drink, food and beds. On the other hand, when we consider the number of travellers of all sorts who, long before Chaucer's time, were continually using this thoroughfare, and found it most convenient in many 1 Notwithstanding, Southwark has never been really a ward of the city, nor its inhabitants citizens. 2 J. Dawson Turner, Domestic Architecture to thirteenth Century, p. 122. 1851. INTRODUCTION cases to spend the night outside the city walls, one cannot but come to the conclusion that resting-places — hostelries — were a very early institution in Southwark ; probably however, the inn, as we understand it, was a mere exception until the middle of the fourteenth century. A very early one, doubtless, was that in Friday Street,^ where Chaucer in his youth saw the Grosvenor arms hanging out ; probably he did not make his acquaint- ance with the Tabard in Southwark until some years afterwards. In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, as Mr. Riley tells us in his Introduction to Liber Aldus, the persons whose business it was to receive guests for profit were called 'Hostelers' and ' Herbergeours.' The line of distinction between them is not very evident ; they are classed together in City ordinances. For instance, 1365, ' No hosteler or herbergeour shall make bread for his guests in his house, but shall buy of common bakers ; ' also 'all the hostelers and herbergeours who keep hostellrys and herbergerys in the City of London, and in the suburbs thereof, shall sell hay and oats at a reasonable price,^ that is to say, they shall not take more than two pence for finding hay for one horse for a day and a night, and if they sell their hay by boteles they are to make them in proportion to the same price.' Hence the old saying, 1 The Saracen's Head, Friday Street, is said to have come into the possession of the Mercers' Company as early as the year 1401. At first, however, it was only described as a tenement. It was next the church, and the site is now occupied by Boyd's warehouse. 2 In Lambarde's Eirenarcha there is record of a similar ordinance in 1582 : ' Innholders not to take money for litter, nor excessively for hay, nor above one halfpenny on a bushel of oats over the common price in the market.' 6 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK criAP. ' bottle of hay.' On the sale of a quarter of oats they are to gain twopence and no more. Keepers of wine-taverns and alehouses, and victuallers (who merely sold pro- visions), do not appear to have lodged their guests any more than the cooks who supplied the public, according to Fitz-Stephen, with cooked dinners at their own houses, and to whose tables strangers and wayfarers were in the habit of resorting. The Hostelers had their gilds like. other trades. The City Company of Innholders still flourishes. The earliest recorded date of it is 1446, when it was known as ' the Misterie of the Hostillars of the City.' A petition in 1473 complains that 'the members of the fraternity in being called hostellers and not innholders, had no title by which to distinguish them from their servants, and prayed that they might be recognised as the misterie of innholders.' The Vintners' Company was incorporated earlier. It may be incidentally mentioned that in the Middle Ages travellers were constantly entertained at religious houses, making, no doubt, if they could afford it, some compensation for the hospitality extended to them. Even now, in out-of-the-way places on the Continent, the old custom is kept up ; for instance, at the Grande Chartreuse, near Grenoble. In the face of a constant necessity, the shelter of bare walls, if nothing more, would no doubt be found at these houses in the earliest times.^ John Aubrey,^ writing in 1678, says, 1 The word mystery, or its old-fashioned form misterie, signifies trade or craft, being derived from the Latin ' ministerium,' not from ' mysterium,' a secret. 2 MS. Collection, Ashmol Mus., Oxford, quoted in Hone's Table Book. INTRODUCTION ' Before the Reformation public inns were rare ; travellers were entertained at religious houses for three days together if occasion served.' The word Inn, Saxon Inne, literally, a dwelling or abiding -place, was first applied generically. Not to mention the Inns of Court, which still retain the name, the abiding-places of great people, religious and secular, were often so called. Thus we had in Southwark town houses of nobles, bishops, abbots, and priors. There were the inns of the Bishop of Rochester and of the Abbot of Waverley, south of Winchester House ; of the Abbot of Hyde, within the Tabard, and his chapel there ; that of the Abbot of Battle and of St. Augustine (the latter now covered by Chamberlain's Wharf), close to the river, between London Bridge and Mill Lane ; the hostelry of the Prior of Lewes, in Walnut Tree Alley, otherwise Carter Lane, bestowed with the church of St. Olave in 1205 by Bishop Peter of Winchester, ' in usus et refectionem hospitum,' for the purposes of hospitality, and so ap- proximating to the inn proper, but with nothing to pay. There was the Green Dragon in Foul Lane, in 1309 the inn of the Cobhams, still known in 1562 as Cobham's Inn, the place called Green Dragon Court to this day. It is, however, of the Inn, as defined by Bailey, ' a publick house for the entertainment of travellers,' that we shall chiefly discourse. Dr. Johnson has a choice little selection of quotations from great writers on the subject of inns — the two sadder ones touch me most ; from Spenser, where the word is perhaps used in its more extended sense — THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK ' " Palmer," quoth he, " death is an equal doom To good and bad, the common inn of rest ;'" from Dryden, who seems to paraphrase Spenser — ' Like pilgrims to the appointed place we tend ; The world's an inn, and death the journey's end.' Archbishop Leighton takes this view with much serenity, as we all may ; his expression is, ' Were I to choose a place to die in, it should be an inn. It looks like a pilgrim going home, to whom the world was all an inn, who was weary of the noise and confusion of it' He had his desire, ending his days at an inn. Quarles, in the Divine Fancies} tells us quaintly — ' Our life is nothing but a winter's day, Some only break their fast, and so away ; Others stay dinner and depart full fed ; The deepest age but sups and goes to bed ; He's most in debt who lingers out the day, — Who dies betimes, has less and less to pay.' This implies that, as to the world, we are well rid of it a bad world, a bad world, my masters. But our old Methodist Atherton in my hearing gave us, from his pulpit in Southwark, the truth as to this. 'A bad world ! not so, a good, a very good world, I say. The world is good, but the rascals who live in it are bad ; not the world, not the world !' We need not, however, trouble ourselves with this phase of divinest melancholy ; we shall see the inn as a place of busy resort, its guests thinking much of living, of social enjoyment and business, and very little indeed 1 Edition 1678, p. 121. INTRODUCTION of dying. We pass sentiment and come as nearly as we can to daily life in these houses of entertainment, with special reference to Southwark, or, as it is often called, the Borough, so peculiarly the place of old English inns. Harrison,^ in 1577, might be thinking of Southwark when he says, ' Those towns that we call thoroughfares have great and sumptuous inns for such travellers and strangers as pass to and fro ;' and then he tells us about them. 'The manner of harbouring^ is not,' he says, ' like to that of some other countries, in which the host or goodman dooth chalenge a lordlie authoritie ouer his ghests. . . . Here in England everie man may use his inne as his owne house, and have for his monie how great or little variety of victuals, and what other seruice himself shall thinke expedient to call for. . . . Our innes are also verie well furnished with naperie, bedding, and tapisterie, especiallie with naperie, for beside the linnen used at the tables, which is commonlie washed daily, is such as belongeth to the estate and calling of the ghest. ... Each commer,' he proceeds to say, 'is sure to be in cleane sheets. If the traveller have an horsse his bed dooth cost him nothing, but if he go on foot he is sure to paie a penie for the same. If his chamber be once ap- pointed he may carie the kaie with him. If he loose ought whilest he abideth in the inne, the host is bound by a generall custome to restore the damage." The horse is 1 Description of England, by William Harrison, afterwards Rector of Badwinter and Canon of Windsor, Book iii. chap, xvi., ' Of our Innes and Thorowfaires.' (New Shakspere Society's Publications.) 2 Herberge, Herbergeour. 3 These conditions are reflected in the old laws which grew up gradually touching inns. Thus, in 1 718 it is recorded that 'in ancient times there THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK attended to by hostelers or hired servants appointed at the charge of the goodman of the house, who, in hope of extraordinarie reward, will deal verie diligentlie after outward appeerance in this their calling.' As if this might, after all, be too good to be true, Harrison thinks it needful to say that the ostlers, unless well looked after, may cheat the horses of their food, and with the tapsters may even be in league with robbers. Our chronicler magnifies the English inns. ' They abound in beer, ale, and wine, and some of them are so large that they are able to lodge two or three hundred persons and their horsses at ease.' He must, however, tell the truth ; the inns of London are not so good as the country inns, but even they compare well with those abroad. It will be seen by and by in our account of the Bear at the Bridge Foot, and the Tabard among others, that the Southwark inns were of very high class indeed. Warming to his subject, Harrison says, ' Ech owner contendeth with other for goodnesse of enterteinement of their ghests, as about finesse and change of linnen, furniture, of. bedding, beautie of rooms, service at the table, costli- nesse of plate, strength of drinke, varietie of wines, or well -using of horses.' Almost too good to be true, one might think. The very signs at their doors are gorgeous, costing ^30 or £\o perhaps — 'a meere vanitie,' in his opinion. were no inns but those which were allowed in Eyre (that is by the justices itinerant), but at this day if a man puts up a sign at his door and harbours guests, it shall be deemed a common inn, and he shall be chargeable for the goods of those he entertains if they happen, to be lost.' INTRODUCTION I must quote another most interesting authority upon these points. Fynes MorySon of Peterhouse, Cambridge, a student in 1617, is somewhat of a traveller ; he makes himself well acquainted with his subject, and writes a book telling all he knows about the inns, — and perhaps a little more. He says, ' The world does not afford such inns as England hath, either for good, cheap entertain- ments for guests in search of pleasure, or for humble entertainments for passengers, even in poor villages. These could, eat at the host's table and pay accordingly. The gentleman might have his chamber, and eat alone or with friends. In the case of eating together, they might have plenty of good meat, choice fish, and no more than sixpence per man ; but this was a different six- pence to our modern one. As to horse-meat, hay, oats, and straw, that might be twelve to eighteen pence for a night; in the summer the horse might be put out to grass for threepence, and the grass was at hand,' for much of Southwark was still unbuilt, the fields extending even to the river, and indeed not far from London Bridge. 'The Englishman may,' Moryson says, 'as fully command and be attended as at home, perhaps better, the servant hoping for some small reward in the morning.' The fussy routine on the arrival of a respectable traveller is somewhat thus. ' As soon as he comes, servants run and take his horse, walking him up and down until he cools, rubbing him down and giving him his meat. Not too much trust ; here the eye of the master is need- ful. Another servant shows the passenger his private chamber, kindles the fire and pulls off his boots.' After THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK that, the host or hostess comes in to inquire, ' Will he eat with the host or at a common table ? ' This last he could do for fourpence or sixpence ; but as the host says, ' It is not used by gentlemen.' If he will eat in his chamber his meal will be according to his appetite, and be as much as he wants ; indeed, the kitchen is open to him, that the meat may be dressed to his liking, and he may, if he pleases, have what is left for breakfast. The host or hostess will give, him their company, and will take it as a favour if asked to sit down. To make things more agreeable, ' they inquire if he will have music. . . . Finally, when the guest leaves, the host will, if desired, set out the reckoning in writing ; if he thinks it unreasonable, he shall be satisfied. At parting, if a few pence be given to the chamberlain and ostler, they will wish the going guest a happy journey.' A very pleasant state of things indeed ! — if true. As to music, we know from other sources before and after i6oo, that ' minstrells, musicians, and chawntors ' were to be had — they are so named in the registers of St. Saviour's ; and players were always moving about among the inns, giving a taste of their quality, dramatic and musical, shows and entertainments of all sorts. This was indeed life to those who wanted to revel in pleasure at the inns. And now we see how it comes about that Decker gives the ironical advice in his Gul's Horn-booke (1609) — the poets of the Bank were well qualified this way. ' Go,' he says to the young man who has money in his purse, ' take thy continual diet at a tavern ; ' he is to inquire out these which are best customed, whose masters are oftenest drunk, proving INTRODUCTION 13 tkey have the choicest wines.^ He is to be familiar with the drawers and their habits, as say, ' with one who keeps a gelding, that he may visit his cockatrice.' He is not to drink of only one particular liquor, troub- ling his head with sucking at one grape, 'but have a lick at all sorts.' And so the gull's education is com- pleted. Southwark, full of inns as it is, has no monopoly of drink and its dealers. In 1309 London is represented as possessing 354 taverns and 1334^ brew-houses. We must remember that as yet there was neither tea nor coffee, that beer was the common drink, and that wine also was largely consumed. I cannot, however, square the figures given with those of 1522, when at the visit of Charles V. note was taken of the stock of wine, showing 1 1 wine merchants, 28 chief taverns, and a total stock of wine, 809 pipes only. Southwark alone could have furnished a large proportion of the 28 taverns ; there must have been many more. Later in the next century Pepys the diarist, not by any means a tippler, in the sense of a drunkard, visited at least 1 20 such places in London and the suburbs. In 1843 London contained 4400 public-houses, 330 hotels, and 960 wine and spirit shops. The wine-cellars of the London Docks ex- tended to three acres, containing 22,000 pipes of wine. 1 The red nose of the landlord at the door was as good as a sign or red lattice. Heine mentions the same characteristic. ' How often,' he says, ' I saw her standing in front of her shop with her red swollen tobacco nose, a living advertisement which attracted many a sailor.' 2 It may be noted that in Liber Albus (1319) the brewing business is described as of low estimation (de vile juggement). It was then chiefly in the hands of women, who were also retail dealers. 14 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTH W ARK chap. I am afraid to quote the figures now : the present state of things may easily be seen in the London Directory year after year. Of Signs and Tokens Before streets with numbered houses came into existence, when the continuity of shops and dwellings was interrupted here and there by gaps and even by fields, it was necessary — a matter of course in fact — for some method to be adopted, that a man's friends and customers might surely find and others be drawn into dealings with him. Numbering would manifestly be useless or inconvenient. Even so late as 1818 a small house was built by my father, the only one in the midst of a field, not more than seven minutes' walk from London Bridge. It is worth while to note the existence of that field some seventy years, ago, as suggesting the condition of the suburbs of London at an earlier date. A very interesting little article in Notes and Queries, loth July 1886, on this subject will repay perusal. Signs would be as useless now as numbers then. The older maps of London are in this respect worth a study. The reputation of a good chapman, of a house or inn noted for its commodities, had to be kept up, and the connection, as we term it, increased ; each house, certainly each house of business, was therefore distinguished by a sign. The sketch near the town hall, of 1600, and that of the High Street from Visscher, in 161 6, will make this clear as to Southwark. The system is now mainly confined to inns, but is still kept up to a certain extent INTRODUCTION 15 by barbers, pawnbrokers, goldbeaters, and tobacconists. Down to the end of the fifteenth century signs appear to have been usually of simple construction, but in pro- cess of time it called for much ingenuity to contrive a device by which each house should be effectually distin- guished. The ironwork which supported the more costly signs was often of artistic design, and we know that some of the carvings and pictures had considerable merit. Finally, indeed, this preliminary expenditure was felt to be somewhat of a burthen. In a curious little book called A Present for an Apprentice, by a late Lord Mayor of London (1747), the writer gives the following advice to young men : ' Beware, likewise, of an ostenta- tious . Beginning ; a huge, unweildly, tawdry Sign, and of laying out as much to adorn a Shop as. to fill it' Some signs were worth notice from their size and posi- tion ; they stood out openly in front of the inn, or on the highway near at hand, and would not be overlooked. A few of this kind may still be seen on a miniature triangle of a green, in front of a village or wayside inn ; ponderous posts, upright with a cross beam which supports the swinging creaking portrait, say of the Marquis of Granby, or any other temporary hero. One of the olden time is shown in our copy of the Tabard, taken from Urry's Chaucer, which is probably a picture of that, or of some notable wayside inn, appropriate as an illustration. A rough woodcut, heading a Roxburghe ballad, 'The Coaches Overthrow,' gives another illustra- tion : they abound. I would observe generally, and only by way of illustra- tion, that to find a man in the period before numbers THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK had become general, it might be needful to give some very lengthened and particular direction, much as that in the Scripture text for the finding of Peter at Joppa, ' he lodgeth with one Simon a tanner, whose house is by the sea-side.' In 1666, whoever wants to do business with the milliners spoken of, will find the man and his wife at the Death's Head, Southwark ; in the Little London Directory (1677) we are told that Will Jones is at ' Bankside neer the Wind-mill ; ' and so on, down to the present time, when our simple direction would be, say, James Thompson, 10 Long Lane, London, S.E. We observe that the invention of signs was a study of some importance, and the selection of fitting ones a trying task. They were taken or adopted from diverse sources : some were of ecclesiastical origin, some heraldic, some grotesque, witty or unexpected ; some had special allusions, the arms of the Lord of the Manor, a royal name or a trade device. Of the last class several still exist characteristic of Bermondsey, as the Woolpack,^ the Fellmongers' Arms, and Simon the Tanner ; the Three Tuns till lately in the Boro High Street is another specimen. Of ecclesiastical or sacred reference, we have the Crossed Keys, the Holy Water Sprinkler, the Pope's Head, the Christopher, the Salutation, etc. ; of heraldic, we have Blue Boars, Red Lions, Black Bulls, and Golden Falcons ; of the grotesque, for example, the Tumble- down Dick, the Naked Boy, and the Three Loggerheads, one of the three being the spectator ; the Death's Head may perhaps be included in this category. Some of our well-known signs in Southwark will be specially re- 1 Formerly the Cock and Pie. INTRODUCTION 17 membered from their association with noted persons or historical events : the Tabard with Chaucer, the Boar's Head with Fastolfe, the White Hart with Jack Cade, the Bear at the Bridge Foot with a well-known officer of Cromwell's who was once its landlord, and with Pepys now and again one of its customers ; the Dancing Bears on the Bankside, the Bull's Head in St. Saviour's Church- yard, and many another, with Edward Alleyn ; these resorts being within his method of settling disputes pleasantly and without law, and of facilitating business. It is not always easy to decide in our early accounts whether particular signs referred to were signs of inns, of business places, or of private houses ; in this case there is no difficulty ; we have so large a selection of undoubted and indeed of notable inns, that we need not- stray outside, except by way of illustration. So far for the signs. Another aid to business much used, chiefly in the seventeenth century, was the Trade Token. When as yet there were no newspapers or other modes of effect- ually advertising the house and its trade, a small token made of copper, lead, or other metal, or even of leather, which rapidly passed from hand to hand, was eminently useful, containing as it did the name of the dealer, the sign of the house, the locality, the trade, and often the date. 1 1 served also as small change ^ or local money among the "^^^^ customers, and among those who had confidence in the man. Here is a typical speci- men of a copper token drawn for this work — c THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK 0. George . Corfield . at . ye . Lyon . &• . Lambe . in . Southwark . g . K . c. R. HIS . HALF . PENNY . 1 666 = A lion and lamb. But the use of tokens was earlier than this. The need for small change being urgent about the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign, leaden tokens ^ generally of mean workmanship came into use, and continued to be issued by tradesmen until 1613, when a patent for farthings only was granted by James I. to John, Baron Harington, which was renewed in 1625. Unfortunately these patents granted by James I. and Charles I. led to gross abuse, the Harington family issuing farthings in unreasonable quantities and of a merely nominal intrinsic value. In 1648, on the death of the King, as the Govern- ment no longer claimed the exclusive right to coin copper and brass, there was a large and immediate issue of trade tokens, chiefly farthings and halfpence. Evelyn, dis- gusted, remarks that every tavern and tippling -house presumed to stamp and utter their coin tokens.^ They supplied a genuine want however. In 1639 there is a great noise and demand for brass or copper money to come out:^ there is even a cry for a further issue. In 1 65 1 some ingenious reasons were given 'for a more plentiful supply of small pieces ministering to means of frugality, where poor men could have a farthing or half farthing's worth, not constrained to buy more of anything than they stand in need of, their feeding being from hand to mouth.' Moreover, 'some,' it was urged, 'who could not give a larger, would give a small coin to the poor.'^ 1 One such, with the Fleur de Lis, dated 1578, is given in C. R. Smith's Catalogue. 2 C. R. Smith's Catalogue. Museum. 1854. •* Hist. MSS. Comm. App., 9th Report, p. 499. 4 Cal. Dom, INTRODUCTION 19 The use of trade tokens must have had its drawbacks ; the advantages I have already noted. On the other hand, the coins, one imagines, could only have circulated close to their place of issue, and the traders responsible for them, who were often in a small and insignificant way of business, must occasionally have disappeared altogether. The variety of specimens is surprising. ' It is,' said a French traveller in 1672, M. Poirevin de Rocheford,^ ' a remarkable thing that not only in cities, towns, and villages, but even in the streets of the same town, were issued small copper or brass money called a farden, usually marked with the name of the shopkeeper.' An ingenious soapmaker has in our time advertised his wares upon a French coin, almost identical with our penny ; this, however, was a little too unfair, and so the evil wrought its own cure. The circulation and gathering up of smaller tokens or coins became almost a trade, if one may judge by an interesting entry from St. Saviour's death register: 'Dec. 5, 1662, burial, Elizabeth Dyer, wife of John, a crier of brass money.' Again we have a token with this inscription, ' H. E. M. at the White Bare in Kent streete a farthing changer.' I am not sure whether Decker in his Gul's Horn-booke, 1609, referred to tokens or no, probably he did, when he advised the gallants who crossed the Thames to the theatres on the Bankside, ' No matter whether you have money or no, you may swim in twenty of their boats upon the river upon ticket.' And hence may arise the modern ex- pression ' on tick.' ^ 1 Cited by C. R. Smith. 2 However, there is high authority for this phrase. In Kerr's Blackstone, THE INNS OF OLD SOUTH WARK A Royal issue of copper farthings having been de- termined on, the use of tokens as money was prohibited 1 6th August 1672. 'All persons who should, after the I St day of September, make, vend, or alter any other kind of pence, halfpence, or farthings, or other pieces of brass, copper, or other base mettal other than the coins authorised above, or should offer to counterfeit any of his Majesty's halfpence or farthings, were to be chastised with exemplary severity.' My friend says the offence was stayed ; I had thought it lingered oh, and although not materially connected with this exact phase of the subject and time, the fact that somewhat similar tokens were issued in great numbers at the end of last and beginning of this century is good as an illustration: certainly scores of these have passed through my hands. The earliest date of what are known as seventeenth- century trade tokens, which alone concern us, is 1648 and on to 1672, and as they were much used by publicans they have been frequently called tavern tokens. Some of these will be particularly specified and figured in the following pages ; the contractions used are O for the obverse side of the token, R for the reverse, the mark = signifies that what follows it is in the field or central part of the token ; i, ^, and ^ refer to the value, namely, a penny, halfpenny, or farthing. The most extensive work on the subject is that of Boyne, published in 1858, of which a new edition has been promised. He describes chap. XV. p. 468, Chief Justice Holt is reported as saying, ' If a man send his servant with ready money to buy goods, and the servant buy upon credit, the master is not chargeable ; but if the servant usually buy for the master upon tick, and the servant buy some things without the master's order, yet if the master were trusted by the trader, he is liable.' IN TROD UCTION 390 Southwark tokens. Since his time many fresh types have been discovered. Coaches and Waggons Let me say a few words about coaches and waggons, as connected or identified with inns. At the beginning of the seventeenth century wheeled carriages were of a lumbering sort, as we may judge from the sketch by Visscher, of one standing before an inn door in Southwark, near the Bear at the Bridge Foot, a jug raised to the driver by the servant for a drink. In the rude woodcuts of ballads of that time they had the same appearance, indeed they were as yet scarce and seldom used. In the early part of this century even, our common hackney coaches, such as I remember, looked like gentlemen's cast-offs, and appeared to be seldom made purposely for the traffic. Ordinary travelling, except among the wealthy — and for them there was ample provision at the great inns — was by horse or waggon, or by the well-known Shanks' pony — this last the most common conveyance. In Fynes Moryson's day stage-coaches had hardly begun even in London, and it was not till the end of the century that they were used for long stages. ' Carriers,' says he, ' have long covered waggons carrying passengers from city to city.' This kind of travelling must have been insufferably tedious, impossible with our habits. These waggons in his time made only about fifteen miles in a long summer's day, departing in the early morning and coming late to the inns, ' for that none but women, people of inferior condition, Flemings, their THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK wives and servants, used to travel in this sort.' From the great number of carriers' inns in Southwark, no small part of the travelling and carriage of goods to and from the home counties must have been done in this way. Another generation will scarcely know what the waggons were like, they have so rapidly become almost extinct, but pictures of them standing in the yards of the inns of Southwark are given in this book, and they have been drawn by such famous artists as Hogarth, Rowlandson, and others. Taylor, in his Carriers Cosmographie, 1637, gives us a long list of ' the Inns and lodgings of the Carriers which come into the Burrow of Southwarke out of the countries of Kent, Sussex, and Surrey,' to which I shall later on have occasion to refer. Our readers might wish to see what English waggon- travelling in the last century was like. Smollett's story in the eleventh and twelfth chapters of Roderick Random is to the life, I should think. This is how a modern writer 1 speaks of the broad-wheeled waggon as he remembers it, 1830-40. ' The old broad-wheeled waggon, wheels about ten inches broad in the tire, and worked by eight or ten horses, constituted the conveyance of poor persons having to move any distance from one part of the country to another. If not travelling more than four miles an hour, these waggons could carry passengers without incurring any excise duty for license or mileage. A picturesque object was the old stage-waggon on the road with the bells on the harness of the leading horses, and frequently the driver in his smock frock riding by the side on a small pony, with his long waggoner's whip, ' Old Coaching Days, by Stanley Harris. INTRODUCTION 23 and a horn lantern hanging up in front to be Hghted up when night came on.' An apparently complete list of stage-coaches and carriers for London, collected down to the year, is given in the New Remarks of London, 1732, which contains also various particulars useful to local travellers and others, as to water carriage, fares of chairmen, watermen, etc. An extract from it will be found in the Appendix. In another interesting book, A New Description of the Counties in England and Wales, published by J. Hodges at the Looking Glass, London Bridge, over against St. Magnus Church, 1752, we find a list of fifteen Southwark inns frequented by coaches and waggons, but of the former two only are mentioned. As the years go by traffic increases. About the middle of the eighteenth century coaches become common enough and prosperous enough to be taxed. Now the railways have almost entirely superseded waggons and coaches, and many of the inns have in one way or another been adapted to the new state of things, and have resumed in another form their carrier trade, namely, as receiving and collecting houses and local offices for the great railways : for instance, the Dun Horse for the South- western, the Catherine Wheel, or rather its site, for the Midland, the Nag's Head for the Great Western, and the George for the Great Northern, all in the High Street of the Borough of Southwark.^ 1 At one of ihem a hundred tons or so of goods per diem are weighed and passed. CHAPTER II ALE AND THE BREWERS We have Chaucer's authority for the fame of our inns ; he also praises the goodness and strength of our ale. Swampy old Southwark could not have been attractive for a long stay, but it was convenient for wayfarers ; at any rate you might be made very comfortable for the time. To linger long would likely enough end in an ague, a fever, or plague, and the confiding traveller might, so to speak, catch his death ; a wise man would stay as he must and hasten on. Our ale was nappy and strong, sleepy and heady, 'headstrong ale,' as they called it ; 'it kept many a gossip from the kirk,' and was the cause of many offenders being presented for punishment by the churchwardens, whose duty it was in those days to look after the doings of their neighbours in church-time. ' Fines of the alle howses uppon the Sabothe daye ' have been recorded again and again ; individual instances are given in these pages. The cook's apprentice, like many another, ' loved best the taverne than the schoppe ; ' so business and religion were both neglected for the seductive Southwark ale. The people going on pilgrimage are not CHAP, n ALE AND THE BREWERS 25 insensible to its charms ; the miller before he begins his Canterbury tale deprecatingly tells that he is ' dronke ; ' with drunken gravity he infers that it is so, from the sound of his own voice, and excusing himself asks pardon, ' wyte it the ale of Southwark I you preye.' In the Roxburghe and other collections of ballads we find ourselves among the actual scenes ; rude woodcuts head them, and may be taken as more or less true to nature, although for cheap productions of the sort the blocks must have done service again and again. In one, behind the lattice, the idlers take down ' the barley broth, which is meat and drink and cloth,' and may be seen carousing, dicing, and singing their ditties. Here is an old ballad in praise of ale, but showing the consequences of too free indulgence. Its very quaintness justifies the quotation ; it is from the life, and is not without its moral — ' Three Gallants in a Tauerne Did brauely call for Wine ; But he that loues those Dainty Gates Is sure no friend of mine ; Giue me a cup of Barley broth, For this of truth is spoke, These Gallants drunke so hard that each Was forct to pawne his Cloake ; The oyle of Barley neuer did Such injury doe to none. So, that they drinke what may suffice And afterwards be gone.' Here also are some lines to the point, on 'The little Barly-corne ' — ' It is the cunningst alchemist That ere was in the land ; 26 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. 'Twill change your mettle when it list, In turning of a hand. Your blushing gold to silver wan, Your silver unto brasse ; 'Twill turne a taylor to a man. And a man into an asse. 'Twill make a weeping widdow laugh And soon incline to pleasure ; 'Twill make an old man leave his stafife, And dance a youthful measure. And though your clothes be ne'er so bad, All ragged, rent and torne. Against the cold you may be clad With the little Barly-corne.' Our object being to see life of all sorts in our old inns and taverns, the kind reader will excuse a few digressions. Here we give drawings from contem- porary pictures, which will help us to realise the subject in hand. This, for instance, is the happy-go-lucky rascal scoring at the public-house. The score was made with chalk on a hanging board by a servant or by the rascal himself. ' Score at the bar ' was one of the cries of tapsters at taverns, as witness the following rhyme, date 1614 — ' When all is gone we have no more ; Then let us set it in the score. Or chalk it up behinde the dore, And ever tosse the pot. Chorus — Tosse the pot,' etc.^ A cut to the ballad 'A pennyworth of Good Counsell ' "- 1 Halliwell MS. Tavern Book, p. 98. 2 Roxburghe Collection, vol. ii. pp. 297, 298. ALE AND THE BREWERS 27 1^ T ^m\ \ T* b^ AxM mM L^^E^ n^T ^ ^^ ^^■. shows the tippler or jolly companion leaving his wife and family possibly to starve : ' He keeps me short of every- thing, he goes to playes, heares fidlers singing, and spends his coyne at ale or wine ; my husband hath no forecast in him.' Here he is with his pot companions, and the cry ever repeating, ' Come, tapster, fill us some ale.' Here is the drawer,^ hastening with jug and goblet. We might supply the last picture from a well-based im- agination : here is the drunkard gibbering in Bedlam, or fatuous in the workhouse, or dead in the gutter, or rotting in gaol. An ap- propriate pendant to this is a grim illustration in Halli- well's folio Shakespeare, of the cheating alewife with her fine headdress and her short measure dragged away by fiends to hell-mouth, which is open ready to receive her. There were, of course, regulations, ever -recurring regulations, as to the making and selling of ale, ' typhyle ' as it is sometimes named, and the sellers, not the drinkers, 'typellars.' At an old High Wycombe fair no one was to brew ' typhyle,' but he was to send it to the ' typellar ' to be sold at assayer's price. What the price of beer 3s. 4d. per barrel implied, may be judged by the order of 1573 that ' the peny white loaf shall be 14 oz. for the present,' 1 Copy of a woodcut at the head of a ballad of the seventeenth century. The jug shown is a distinctly-drawn greybeard or bellarmine, so called from the celebrated Cardinal of that name, a zealous hater of Protestants, whom it was originally intended to caricature. This humorous type of jug was very common in London in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. Many specimens are to be seen in the Guildhall Museum — one is before me now 28 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. and the wage of skilled workers was from 6d. to id. a day. Two centuries before, a gallon of clear ale and of the best was sold at i-§d. ; of second, probably known as fulstale, the gallon at id. ; every vessel brought to the brewery was to be filled full of ale, and to stand a day and a night for the working ; on the second morning, when taken away, it was to be filled with good and clear ale. Even down to the last century there was little sale, apparently, except for new ale. 1760. — We have this account from the Annual Register, p. 174, 'So little idea had the brewer or his customers of being at the charge of large stocks of beer, that it gave room to a set of moneyed people to make a trade by buying these beers from brewers, say for 22s., keeping them some time and selling them when stale {sic) to publicans for 25s. or 26s. per barrel.' It says further that some people drank mild beer and stale, others threads (hence thread shops and tape shops), at 3d. ' and many stale at 4d. per quart. ' Whatever the quality or condition, the dealer believes in his wares, as may be judged from the following ' exaletation of ale ' — ' Who buys good land, buys many stones. Who buys good meat, buys many bones, Who buys good eggs, buys many shells, Who buys good ale, buys nothing else.'^ From the Liber Aldus we learn that in early days assayers regulated prices in accord with quality. Our forefathers were always regulating prices and qualities, and did what in them lay to make people deal fairly and be virtuous by order and Act of Parliament— a difficult, 1 Gent.'s Mag., Selections ' Signs of Inns,' etc., p. 303. n ALE AND THE BREWERS 29 nay, impossible task then as now. 1542. — 'Ale is made of make and water, and they the whiche do put any oder thynge to ale than is rehersed except yest, barme or godes good doth sofysticat theyr ale.' Hops were prob- ably known in England long before this, in spite of the well-known lines about them, but at first they were not in favour. The Godes-good noted here, or AUgood,^ is the herb ' Good King Henry, or English Mercury,' of very great repute among the old herb doctors. ' Be thou sick or whole, put Mercury in thy koole,' so the proverb runs. Why good King Henry I know not, the French say after Henry IV., the English, after Henry VI. Further as to the materials out of which in old time ale was made. In the Hundred Roll, Southwark, c. 1289, is this illustra- tive passage touching those who make ale and collect garbs, i.e. sheaves of grain, in this case used for brew- ing purposes. In the autumn they say that Roger le Bribur, while he was summoner (sumpnour) to the Dean of Southwark, collected garbs by custom, and made thereof ale which is called fulstale.^ The sub-bailiff also is engaged in the same work. ' They say that John de Holebourne collected garbs in the autumn and made thereof ale, while he was sub-bailiff of Southwark.' Chaucer gives us a picture of the sumpnour with his red face, and his garland ' like to that of an alehouse ' — a suitable man, one might say, to have for his specialty the making of ale. In the St. Saviour's accounts of 1 A chenopodiuin. The Chenopodium Quinea of Peru when fermented is said to yield a pleasant beer. 2 Public Record Office. I am greatly indebted to Mr. Walford D. Selby for these and many another hint. Ful, perhaps common or inferior ale, from Anglo-Saxon, Ful, foul, impure, muddy. 30 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. wardens we find ' the Sumpnour serving the citation to those who had not paid their tithes.' As tithes would be mostly paid in kind, the sumpnour would be the very man to gather garbs and push trade. No doubt these garbs went to housewives, as well as to alewives and brewers, and to such of the innkeepers as were also brewers. Housewives in the olden days had need of quite other gifts and practised other duties than are called for now, although, if the truth were told, some of the old useful accomplishments which are gone out of sight might still be studied with advantage. Even in my own time a notable change has occurred in this respect. I had specimens of flaxen and woollen homespun presented to me on my ' settling ' fifty years ago ; some of these providings were blankets, spun in the yarn and finished by the lonely weaver who lived on the cliff of Lansallos by the sea-side. The spinning wheel which was used is still at our old home. The mistress made candles with the small rushes, tinder with the oldest linen, matches with wood split at home and the melted brimstone. She understood the art of preparing home-made wines, pickles, and preserves, and was well instructed in economical and dainty cookery. Such knowledge as this was common among average middle-class and even poor housewives : it has now to a great extent become a thing of the past. Porter is a modern invention, first made in the earlier half of the last century by Harwood, a brewer on the east side of High Street, Shoreditch, its specialty being malt highly kiln dried, with the addition of some burnt ingredient as colouring matter — 11 ALE AND THE BREWERS 31 ' Harwood my townsman, he invented first Porter to rival wine and quench the thirst,' writes Gutteridgp, a fellow-parishioner. I append a very instructive note from the Dictionary of Dates, Article ' Porter.' ' The malt liquors formerly in use were ale, beer, and twopenny, and it was customary to call for a pint or tankard of half and half, i.e. half of ale and half of beer ; half of ale and half of twopenny ; or half of beer and half of twopenny. In the course of time it also became the practice to ask for a pint or tankard of three-thirds, meaning a third of ale, beer, and twopenny ; and thus the publican was obliged to go to three casks for a single pint of liquor. To avoid this trouble and waste, a brewer of the name of Harwood conceived the idea of making a liquor which should partake of the united flavours of ale, beer, and twopenny. He did so, and succeeded, calling it entire, or entire butt beer, meaning that it was dra,wn entirely from one cask or butt, and being a hearty nourishing liquor, it was very suitable for porters and other working people. Hence it obtained its name of porter, and was retailed first at the Blue Last, Curtain Road, Leigh.' The three largest brewers of porter in London were, with the number of barrels recorded, in 1815. Barclay & Perkins 337,621 Meux, Reid & Co. . 282,104 Truman, Hanbury & Co. 272,162 1840. Barclay & Perkins 361,321 Truman, Hanbury & Co 263,235 Whitbread & Co 218,828 I 760. Calvert & Co. • 74,734 Whitbread . 63,408 Truman 60,140 32 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. South wark brewers have from the first naturally sought to establish themselves on or near the banks of the Thames. Thus Pickle- Herring, St. Olaves, was a notable brewing centre ; later on we have a landing- place, Pickle- Herring Stairs, a wharf and a street of the same name. Several seventeenth -century trade tokens were issued from here ; Boyne describes eight. Among the signs which appear on them are an Elephant and Castle, an Anchor, the Woodmonger's Arms, the Baker's Arms, and a sailing boat or hoy. Touching the Wood- monger's Arms, old London maps show large piles of wood by the river-side, the woodmongers' stock in trade. We forget when we so readily order coals of the coal merchant the old condition of things when wood was the principal firing. 1596^ John Welshaw, a brewer, had taken a house and yard 'on backside at Pikell Herringe,' the yearly rent being ^'j, payable quarterly, at the "ffeaste of St. Mychell Tharchangell, the birth of o' Lord God, Thanncacon of o' Ladie, and the ffeaste of St. Jhn. Baptist,' — the common way of denoting the quarter-days. Much of the Horselydown district was at one time in the possession of the renowned Sir John Fastolfe. His great house in Stoney Lane, Tooley Street, was of such pretensions as to be called a palace ; here the mother of the Duke of York, afterwards Edward IV., and her family were lodged once, on occasion. Again, William of Worcester, a distinguished chronicler of the time, and Fastolfe's retainer, tells us that 'the Parliament being dissolved, the King, Henry VL, held the feast of 1 Chancery Proceedings, Elizabeth. 11 ALE AND THE BREWERS 33 Christmas at Leicester ; but James Ormond, Count of Wiltshire, remained at the same feast at the house of Sir John Fastolfe in Southwark.' What occurred there during the Cade rebellion will be told presently in our description of the White Hart. There are many later allusions to ' ffostal ' or Fastolfe's place on the site of the old palace. Mill Lane takes its name from his mills — ' ffostalles mylles at Battle-bridge.' No less than 377 deeds relating to his possessions in Southwark are, it has been said, still kept at Magdalen College, Oxford, to which foundation he was a magnificent donor at least in intent.'^ In these deeds mention is made of the High Bere House, le Bores Head, le Harte Home alias le Bucke-head, water-mills and dough-mills, tenements and gardens called Walles, and le Dyhouse. In a map of Horselydown, 1544, belonging to the Governors of St. Olave's School, are shown the Mills of St. John of Jerusalem and the ' Knights Hows ' adjoin- ing, a little west of St. Saviour's^ or Savory's Dock. This ' Knights Hows ' was afterwards known as the 1 See Notes and Queries, 2d Series, vol. v. p. 84. It has been said not : that, however, is because, although it was Fastolfe's property, it reached the College through its founder, Bishop Waynflete, who was the knight's executor. ' Sir John gave 1 500 libs, per ann. in Norfolk and Suffolk to the college, it is certain also that he gave to the senior seven demies a penny a week for augmentation of their vests, which being now but a small pittance those who have it are called by those who have it not, FastoliFs " buckram men." ' — Hearne's Diary. Some trace of the connection of Magdalen College with Southwark is shown in Magdalen Street and in Maudlin Lane, the Morgan's Lane of later maps, an old tavern, the Brewers' Arms, is still here. 2- So called from the Abbey of St. Saviour, Bermondsey, to which it had been attached. To be carefully distinguished from the dock next to St. Saviour's Church, which is usually called by the same name. D 34 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap Manor House ; in Corner's account of Horselydown we are told that the noted modern brewery of Courage and Co. occupies the site. Apparently at the very spot, so far as it can be made out from older maps, was a great house of entertainment at the river-side, opposite to and a little east of the Tower. A considerable enclosure, with trees, gardens, and space for walks, is shown in Braun and Hodenberg's map of 1572, marked with the word ' Beere Howse.' We have seen that on a list of Southwark property at Magdalen College, Oxford, left by Sir John Fastolfe, this same place, the High Bere House, is mentioned. It is also re- ferred to in some early Chancery proceedings — 14 Edward IV. — as the ' High Biere- howse and gardeyn, lately known as ffastolfe's.' A picture by Hoefnagle, dated 1590, affords us a fine chance of seeing this old beer -house en fite. The Tower appears across the river, and may, although in some respects pro- duced from the painter's imagination, be taken as a fairly accurate view,^ showing the company in the costume of the period, tables laid, people waiting, cooks at their work, and musicians. Archery is going on ; a horseman with a hawk on his wrist is there ; and, not to be lacking in anything, there is one unfortunate in the stocks, and near him church -like buildings — perhaps the Hermitage, which is known to have been at hand. Altogether it presents a most animated scene, and is well worthy of study. I must enlarge a little upon Pickle Herring, finding 1 Comer, Hist. Horselydown, p. 1 8, et seg., gives a copy of the picture, and apparently from it as well as from other sources, an account in detail. II Ale and the brewers 35 more items of interest in the subject than I at first expiected. A writer of 1580^ sees great profit to the State, relief to the poor, reformation of rogues and the idle, wealth to thousands that know not how to live, by facilitating the sending away fish, and bringing back French wines for the English market. In his book are two illustrative plates : one shows the fisherman pursuing his vocation on the sea, the other, ready for embarkation — ' the vintage for London,' with the significant label, ' no wines from Bordeaux but for gold ; ' and so we come into contact with the subject of supply for our wine-shops and vintners, and with pickle herring. As the Roxburghe ballad puts it, ' Herrings pickled must be tickled down to draw the liquor.' They are kin commodities. It seems that the art of pickling herrings was known in this country as early as the fourteenth century, and further, that fishermen, here being snubbed, settled in Holland, and drew the attention of the Dutch to this valuable industry. Afterwards came suggestions, notably these of Hitchcock's book, for the recovery of the trade. ' Pickle herring and Anchovey rare ' (Taylor) were prized delicacies. Robert Green is said to have died of a surfeit of the dainty relish. I have not yet discovered the origin of the name as applied to Pickle Herring, St. Olave's. It may be that Charles II., in his order 1 Robert Hitchcockes Pollitique Piatt, a ,New-yeres gift to England, black letter, imprinted by John Kyngston, London, 1580; a rare book, priced 12 guineas in Mr. Quaritch's Catalogue. In 1586 a Mr. Hitchcocke in connection with St. Olave's School is ' counseylour to Mr. Goodyer.' Corner, Horselydown, p. 15. Further, one Hitchcocke, late a brewer, and a governor of St. Olave's School, is ' put out,' being one of the dis- affected, 26th January 1662. — Harleian MS. 6166. 36 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. of 1660, anticipating as to tlie herring bus^ fishery, established storehouses furnished with nets, barrels, salt, and other needful appliances here by the river Thames, and that thus the name of Pickle Herring, Pickle Herring Stairs, was applied to the headquarters of the trade. I think, however, that the origin is much earlier. One curious fact deserves mention first. In the registers of St. Olave's Parish, 1584, is recorded the death of Peter Van Duraunte, alias ' Pickell Heringe, brewer,' concerning whom I have a very interesting letter from the late Colonel Chester, speculating upon the name and its origin as applied to the place. At the Probate Office, Somerset House, is a will of the same date, in which Peter Van Durant, 'alias Pickle -hearing,' leaves direc- tions for his own burial in the chancel of St. Olave's Church. Whether this brewer obtained for himself and for his place at Horselydown the nickname of Pickle Herring it is impossible to be sure ; to say the least of it, the alias is very curious. I am, however, inclined to think that the Paston Letters may afford the clue. Exactly at this spot — that is, at Stoney Lane, Horsely- down, not to be confused with the street of that name by the Borough market— from the year 1447, 25 Henry VI., was, as we have seen, the noble residence of Sir John Fastolfe, and here was, likely enough, in his time a centre for the herring trade. In one of the letters from Botoner the writer urges that Sir John's auditors should show him ' the great damage he beareth in dis- bursing money about shipping and boats, keeping an house up at Yarmouth to his great harm.' He was, we 1 Bus, a boat specially used for herring fishing. ■I ALE AND THE BREWERS 37 may say, somewhat of a general trader, and among the rest a Yarmouth fish merchant, and London would most probably be a great market for his herrings. In another letter it is noted that just as Calais is a staple of wool, so is Bordeaux a staple of wine for England. This may on both points illustrate Robert Hitchcock's New Year's gift — his herring 'platt,' fish for wine, wine for fish. The herring fishery on the coast of Norfolk was an object of great importance in the fourteenth century. ' The herring ^ fair at Yarmouth was so considerable that it was regulated by statute.' Fastolfe's herring business at Yarmouth and the water -side premises by Stoney Lane might then have appreciable connection. Let me say a few words in support of my theory. Fastolfe, born in 1377, at or near Yarmouth, is early interested in general trade, exchanging corn and wool for fish, ' chaffer and ware ' at Yarmouth,^ and by and by doing a large business in herrings. He was fifty-one at the Battle of Herrings, and I think it fair to conjecture that the choice of such an article of food for the relief of Orleans might be partly owing to his pecuniary interest in it. Certain it is, as we read him afterwards, that he rarely missed an opportunity of making money. True, he did not come into actual possession of the locality since called Pickle Herring, St. Olave's, until 1447, when he was seventy years of age ; but he had, as one would say, been a long time in the business, and the actual possession would probably come out of a previous use 1 I draw these conclusions from the letter of Botoner, i.e. William of Worcester, to Paston, about Fastolfe's business. Knight's Paston, vol. i. pp. 80, 81. 2 Notes and Queries, 7th Series, vol. i. p. 453. 38 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. of the place for the herring trade. Other curious facts occur to me. ' Hanswurst, the Dutch Pickel-herringe, was noted for his gormandising appetite and Falstaffian dimensions.' Pickel Herring was the popular name of a buffoon among the Dutch. ^ Shakespeare uses the word in Twelfth Night, where Sir Toby Belch is made to say :— 'Tis a gentleman here — a plague o' these pickle -herring!' Between herrings, pickled her- rings, Pickle Herring at St Olave's, and Fastolfe, and again between Pickle Herring as Jack Pudding, and Falstaff, Shakespeare's prince of Jack Puddings, the suggestive coincidences are very curious. The discus- sion of the character of Fastolfe in all its bearings will be attempted farther on. He is perhaps as noted a man, save Shakespeare, as we have had residing among us in Southwark. Fastolfe's compact property in St. Olave's, on the banks of the Thames, lies in the very way of trade ; handy for woodmongers' and fisherrhen's stores, and for brewers, into the possession of whom his wharves, mills, water-power, and storehouses, at length chiefly come. Five minutes or less will bring us from Stoney Lane to the town mansion or inn of the Abbot of Battle, -hence Battle Bridge, which was between Mill Lane, as we now name it, and the Bridge House. The site is 1 ber Geist von Monsieur Pickle-Hering is the title of a little book of 1666, containing some two hundred flighty tales, comic speeches, witty thoughts, questions, replies, and what not; a sort of Dutch Joe Miller, I suppose. My attention has just been called to a picture by Jan Steen in the Lonsdale Sale of i8th June 1887. It is called the Hurdy-gurdy Player, and the scene is laid in front of a tavern, the sign of which is inscribed ' Pecul Harings.' II ALE AND THE BREWERS 39 now covered by Hay's Wharf and Dock. In some pro- ceedings of 1568^ I find many curious particulars; in fact, they contain a Hving picture of places and people of the sixteenth century. William Browne, a parishioner, is now occupying the Abbot's House, known as Battell House, which, descended from its high estate, is jostled by a dye-house and a woodyard. Battell House is represented as in length 80 feet, in breadth 44 feet. The Abbot's Close had been before the dissolution ' one open place of about an acre in extent,' and had been freely used for purposes of recreation. Oliff Burr, coppersmith, M.P. for Southwark, 1571-72, knew the Close well, and had, when a youth, played there at quoits divers times. People were free to go in and out. 'About three years ago,' he says in 1571, 'it has been made into gardens and bowling alleys, of which there are two there.' The brewers had pleasant and appropriate surroundings, with plenty of open space down to the river bank at Battle Bridge. Things, however, were changed since the days of the old ecclesiastics, who had been great entertainers, and indeed very agreeable neigh- bours, always providing that people believed as they did. The district along the river -side immediately east and west of London Bridge in Southwark became in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries a ready refuge for people from the Low Countries ; not only from civil dissensions, but also and chiefly from religious persecu- tion. Busy notable men they often were, friends of 1 Court of Requests, Elizabeth Atkins, defendant, William Browne and William Bridger named in suit. Catalogue, No. 542. 40 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. freedom and of education. It was said in 1563 that the ' empty houses got filled, to the glory of the English nation and to the great advantage of landlords and leasemongers.' These refugees were so many that a special burying-place in Southwark became necessary — 'the Flemish burying-ground,' by the first St. Olave's Grammar School, to which I shall have occasion to refer later on. The site is under the London Bridge Railway station. In St. Saviour's the Dutch were also very numerous, and had their almshouse in Horse Shoe Alley, Bankside. Of these refugees, some of the most skilful of brewers, 'Almanic,' i.e. German, armourers, weavers, glass-painters, and others, were to be found in Southwark, to its great advantage as well as to the lasting disadvantage of the countries out of which these people were driven. I have here to do with brewers only. It has already been noted how famous old Southwark was for its ales ; many times Chaucer indicates their quality. Not the less the refugee brewers, now to be noticed, improved the trade. They seem to have prompdy recognised what was more or less known before, the marked suitability of the Thames water for the process ; indeed, the Flemings extended their breweries along the Bankside, from the Bridge Foot to Horselydown, as we shall now see. They were said to have brought over with them great improvements in the trade, among other things the use of hops for beer, as distinct from ale, which continued for a time to be brewed in the old manner. But there are two sides to this. Moryson in 161 7 says, 'English beer made of barley and hops is famous in the Netherlands,, and 11 ALE AND THE BREWERS 41 although the cities of lower Germany forbid the selling of English beere, in this way satisfying their own brewers, yet privately they swallow it like nectar.' Henry Leake, brewer, chief founder of the St. Olave's Grammar School, was one of the refugees referred to, but before the persecution under Alva. Among the cluster of breweries and beerhouses at Battle Bridge and Horselydown was an Aungell, about which there were some Chancery proceedings in 1585. 'Henry Leake, bearebrewer, took of Sir Robert Copley^ the Aungell, and a piece of ground called Shayer Shawe, a dyke by the Highe House (that is, the High Beerhouse), near ffostalle mylles, belonging to Maudelyn College,' from which a grant, 33 Henry VHI., had been made to a former Leake to construct ' a bridge over a small water dytche, as way to Battlebridge.' In this suit we find mention of three Henry Leakes, the grandfather, whose will is dated 1560 ; the father, who died soon after in 1563 ; and the grandson, heir to the others, and party to this suit. In 1554 the first Henry is owner of the inn and brewhouse known as the Dolphin, and the Beare at the Bridge Foot, south-west. In the will of 1560 this Leake, of Southwark, beerbrewer, gives of certain rents and profits in St. Martin's le Grand, ;^20 a year to the poor of St. Olave's and to other Southwark parishes ; and to the maintenance of a free school ;^8, with pre- ference to St. Olave's, but only if within two years of his death a free school should be established in that parish, otherwise in St. Saviour's.' The school thus started in Tooley Street has, from various sources, 1 Owner of the Maze and other property in Southwark. 42 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. become richer and greater. Notwithstanding the num- ber of other benefactors', Henry Leake, the Flemish refugee, must be considered its virtual founder ; he would wonder greatly could he see (perhaps he does) what his very moderate bequest has been the means of effecting ; at the present appearance and position of the renowned school in Horselydown, instead of by the graveyard of the old Flemish refugees, south of St. Olave's Church ; at the great number of children there educated, and at the greatly -advanced education they receive. In this same will of 1560 Henry Leake left to Miles Coverdale 40 shillings that he might preach a sermon on his burial at St. Olave's Church ; and to his own clerk, Nicholas Weblyng, £20 in token of satisfac- tion for true and faithful service. This is the first mention we have found of the successful brewing family, the Weblyngs. In 1574 one of them is a large con- tributor to a city loan of ^4900 for ' stranger refugees, and at the same time Wassell Weblyng, bearebrewer, is paying a considerable rent as tenant under St. Thomas's Hospital.' In 1578 the Governors of the Hospital contract with him to supply good beer at the rate of 3s. 4d. for the barrel of 36 gallons ; shortly afterwards, however, they naively record at one of their meetings that ' the house beer is too strong and begets a taste ; the poor go abroad especially on Sabothe day, and abuse themselves in taverns and alehouses, to the great dis- pleasure of Almighty God, and the misliking of the Governors ; they take order that no strong beer shall be allowed, and none fetched except a pynte at a tyme, by order of the physician.' Even the matron is weak as to II ALE AND THE BREWERS 43 drink, and has to be admonished again and again. ' She is very faulty of late,' they mildly say, ' but promises amendment, if she fails again,' etc. etc.. There was no stint in the usual supply ; not long before these governors order that the poor may have ' every one, a day, three pyntts of here for two months, a quart at dinner and a pint at supper, and after that their olde ordenary allowance wych is i quarte.' 1 61 7. — -The authorities 1 take note of complaints that ' beer is strong and leads to drunkenness ; ' they threaten as to price, and observe that ' the brewers replenish the tippling houses with headstrong beer for their own private lucre.' In 1658 the Rector of Bermondsey preaches at St. Saviour's before Mr. Justice Hale and others ; as his sermon deals faithfully and eloquently with the subject of drink, I here append an extract. ' There is one griev- ance more,' he says, ' you must help this country in, and rid the country of those innumerable pest houses ; we mean the tippling houses, that pester the whole Nation and ruine whole families. . . . Sirs, you that are the standing magistrates of the County, will it be for your honour, think you, to give license to such ? — so many ? Some you say must be ; but why so many ? ' Further, ' If you mean not to suppress them, let these mottoes be on the sign and over the Door, "Here you may buy beggery and disgrace at a deare rate: here you may learn the way to the Stocks, the Gaol, the Gallows, and to Hell.'" No doubt this man was sincere and impas- sioned ; but such appeals serve not long, except perhaps i Remembrancia of London , Tp. 28. 1878. 44 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. in individual cases ; the trade will always be, the remedy, what ? — that the dealers shall be good men, and of standing, that the commodity shall be pure, under penalty, — the best of its kind. After all, if it be not. impertinent here to say so, the habits of temperance in all things, and the spirit of a good conscience, must begin almost from the cradle ; there would then be no need of patch- work pledges. Let me say a few more words concerning the Web- lyngs. In 1611 we have a grant to Nicholas Weblyng and his heirs of a messuage called ' Fastolphes,' devised to them by Wassell Weblyng, stranger denizen, on which account, that of his being a ' stranger,' one-third of the value went by law to the King. This same Weblyng bequeaths a rent charge of £\ to the Grammar School. In 1623 Nicholas is in trouble, refusing to pay the groat tax : he is committed to the Marshalsea prison. It should be noted that the brewers were not always well treated by the Court. In 1629 they complain that their beer and ale, and the use of carts and horses, are taken for the King's house, and 'they can get neither payment nor content for the same ; ' as we say, neither money nor promise. Another brewing family of note was that of the Nicholsons, like the Weblyngs and Leakes refugees from the Low Countries. In 1632 their place of business is in Montague Close. Overman, soap-boiler and local magnate, to whom most of the property hereabout belonged, was the owner : this name was preserved in our time in the Overman's almshouses by the church, now entirely removed. One of the Nicholsons, as Church- II ALE AND THE BREWERS 45 warden of St. Saviour's, is mentioned in connection with the custom of issuing a license for permission to eat flesh in Lent, usually granted by the Curate, but with the knowledge and consent of the Warden ; showing the curious subordination of the people to Church authority ; — apparently now we are drifting to the other extreme. The parish records say that ' George West, innkeeper, is, during his sickness, licensed by the curate of St. Saviour's, with the knowledge and consent of Mr. Nicholson, to eat flesh in Lent. . . . 1633. — Mrs. Nicholson, wife of Mr. Michael Nicholson, being sick and weake, may in like manner eate fleshe during the continuance of such her sickness, licensed by the curate with the knowledge and consent of the churchwarden.' Again, 'The curate, by and with the consent of Mr. Nicholson, one of the churchwardens, licenses Stone's wife, who is very sick and weake, to eate flesh.' The Nicholsons continue in the parish some fifty years at least after — the burial of Josiah Nicholson being then recorded — and were perhaps of the Nycolson family of St. Thomas's. Many of the same name, Nycolson, ' from the Emperor's dominions,' made denizen, are mentioned in documents of the sixteenth century ; they were glaziers, glass -painters, printers, and what not ; some were living in St. Thomas's Hospital precincts at the dissolution. About 1530 certain brewers of Southwark took from two ecclesiastical owners a lease as to St. Saviour's, then St. Mary Overy's, Dock, an inlet of the Thames, close to the west door of the church. The Bishop of Winchester's palace ^ bounded it on the west, the Priory 1 Winchester House, a very famous and interesting palace, was built 46 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. of St. Mary Overy on the east. The brewers took this lease for the purpose of ensuring a free supply of Thames water. ' The Bishop and the Prior on the one part, and Richard Ryall, John Whyte, Andrew Atkinson, Henry Peach, Richard Kellett, Thomas Philipson, John How- orth, John Syminges, and Jane Bayne, brewers, on the other part.' It is recited that after much suit of these brewers, a passage is granted them for their carts to the Thames between Winchester House and the Priory buildings to fetch water for brewing. Not being a highway, the grant is only by license and sufferance, each brewer paying 6s. 8d. for repair of the way, and 1 2d. as an acknowledgment. In default the carts might be seized.^ Stephen Gardiner was at this time Bishop, and Bartholomew Linstead (in a parish document of the time, Syre Bartylmew, ffool or Fowle) was Prioh The comparative purity of the Thames water may be inferred about 1 107 by Bishop William GifFord as a residence for himself and his successors. During the time of the Commonwealth it was used as a prison for the confinement of Loyalists ; and after Charles's I.'s death was sold to Thomas Walker of Camberwell. At the Restoration it reverted to the see of Winchester, but having become dilapidated, an Act of Parliament, passed 1663, empowered Bishop George Morley to lease it out. The following year he bought a brick house in Cheyne Row, Chelsea, lately built by James, Duke of Hamilton, and adjoining the manor house. The old palace in Southwark gradually became ruinous, but considerable remains were exposed to light in 18 14, when a great fire destroyed some modern warehouses surrounding it. Of its appearance immediately after- wards there is a unique drawing in the Guildhall Library; the most striking architectural feature then visible was a circular window at the end of the great hall, pronounced by John Carter, no mean judge, to have been the finest of the kind in England. The name is preserved in Winchester Yard and Winchester Street, and slight fragments of the building have of late years from time to time been found. 1 Benson MSS. British Museum. II ALE AND THE BREWERS 47 from the frequent and abundant rules and ordinances of the Court of Admiralty ^ with respect to the fish therein, — regulations for hooks, lamperne rods, hebbing^ nets, white bait, smelt, eels, and salmon, which were then plentiful in the Thames. Incidentally I may note of this same dock in 1 785, that it was ' stopt with filth and nastiness, and the landing of great pieces of timber,' which, as the vestry minutes say, 'greatly annoyed the streets.' Once (Domesday Book) it was dignified with the name of a harbour, for vessels of the time ; now it is but an insignificant inlet. In the seventeenth century the question of water supply was beginning to press : that drawn from wells and pumps through a filthy supersaturated soil was never safe, and plague was often visiting the district, carrying off not once only, but many times, it might be a fourth or fifth of the inhabitants. In 161 7 comes a project to erect a water-house on London Bridge for South wark.^ In 1677 property by Mill Lane passes to Nicholas Chowne and Thomas Cox, brewers, who, primarily for brewing purposes, have 'a passidge under foot to the Thames, for the water to come in and goo oute ' to and from their pond and wells, and a mill-house worked by horse-power for lifting the water. It was obvious that the brewers, having the Thames to draw upon, might do a good business by supplying water to the inhabitants. Accord- ingly Cox entered into an agreement with the Jacksons to form a sort of company, holding 12 shares, to have 1 4th October 1590, Cal. Dom. "- '■Hebbing — devices or nets laid down for fish at ebbing water.' — Bailey. 3 Remembrancia of London, p. 558. 1878. 48 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. liberty to lay down pipes from the waterworks to St. Olave Street, and to contract with the inhabitants of Southwark for water. This was done, and evidently much extended, for in the minutes of St, Saviour's vestry, 12th April 1682, in consequence of the great fiTe of 1676, is this, 'To agree with Mr. Jackson, master of the water house at Horselydown, for having a fifirecok placed where the meete market was, and at one other place.' I will add that in 1695 a deed and assignment was made by William Patterson, founder of the Bank of England, to transfer to William Sheppard of London, goldsmith, all his 24 shares of springs and waters within five miles of the city and river Thames southward, designed for the supply of Southwark and places ad- jacent, and that the same 24 shares were afterwards divided into 240, The Waterworks at Bank End, connected first with Mr. Thrale's brewhouse, and after- wards in the hands of a company, under the name of the Borough Waterworks, will be noticed elsewhere. Until quite recent times the Thames, though of course very far from pure, was charged mainly with mere earthy matter, and was with reason celebrated for making good beer. The district in which I lived from 18 14 was supplied with water direct from the Thames at London Bridge, which was brought through wooden pipes, i.e. trees of fitting size bored and shaped for the purpose. On one occasion I drew a tumbler of the water as it flowed into the butt; the deposit was of brown earth about an inch of the full depth, and small fish frequently passed in. This was the water used for household purposes : it was never in my recollection transparent. 11 ALE AND THE BREWERS 49 But to return from this water digression to our beer. Nigh to St. Olave's Church was the Bridge House, which was, as its name implies, a storeplace for materials belong- ing to the City, especially for those which were used in the repair of London Bridge. It came to be occupied as a granary and as a bakehouse with large and many ovens. Cotton's warehouses are now on the site. In 1 5 14 the Mayor, George Monex, gave to the City his old brewery called Golding's, next to the Bridge House, for the enlargement of which, in 1522, another Mayor, Sir John Munday, took the same down, and there was erected instead a 'fair brewhouse for service of the City with beer.' ^ This was not strictly a Southwark brewhouse, being in that part, namely the gildable manor, which had been almost from time immemorial, with some limitations, under the jurisdiction of the City.^ A noted brewer was John Crosse of St. Margaret's parish. 'Cros's bruhouse' is shown in a map of 1542^ as next the market, on the east side of Counter Lane. 1535. Crosse is one of the parishioners named in the Act for the purchases of land abutting on the highway, for enlarging the churchyard next St. Margaret's ; he appears to have been a past warden and a brother of the fraternity of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, a gild in whose hands the government ot the parish was at this time. His holding was under St. Thomas's Hospital, and he paid for it a rent of ^6 : 16 : 8. His will is dated 1544-45- from the Red Lion, apparently the sign of his brewery. 1 Stow, ed. Thorns, p. i55- 2 See City Remembrancia. The case of the Dog and Duck. 3 The text map of account of old Southwark and its people. E '50 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. So late as 1 746, Red Lion Street is shown in Rocque's map, on the same spot as Crosse's Red Lion Brewery two hundred years before. In this will he directs that his body shall be buried in the Lady Chapel of St. Saviour's. A John Crosse, probably his son, is in 1552 appointed to oversee, as to certain church property of St. Saviour's forfeited to the Crown. A few more pioneers of the trade are worthy of mention. We have in 1580 John Smythe, Hke the Nicholsons, of Montague Close ; not a small man of his craft, as he takes some twenty-two tokens for the sacra- ment, each token implying a member of his family or a servant of the age of sixteen years and upwards. In 1598 Mr. Ironmonger, a leading vestryman of St. Saviour's, was appointed with some others to appear before the Privy Council, and present a petition from the vestry setting forth the abominations of the playhouses of the Bankside, and praying for the suppression of them. The Ironmongers were people of property in St. Saviour's parish. Nigh to Bank End was afterwards Ironmonger's Rent. Strange freaks were played with people's names in those phonetic times, when few could spell except as the sound struck the ear. This family name appears as Ironmonger and Iremonger ; I have no difficulty in be- lieving that the, brewers Monger were of the same stock. In 1634 a return was made by the Wardens of St. Saviour's to the Earl Marshal, as to new houses and old ones divided into tenements. The authorities were extremely anxious to check building, so that it became very difficult for an increasing people to find houseroom. These restrictions, and the overcrowding which resulted, n ALE AND THE BREWERS 51 not only helped to invite the plague, but made it more deadly when it came. In this return the Wardens report a brewhouse and dwelling in tenure of Mr. Monger, estimated at ^20 rent by the year, and built about eighteen years before, that is, in 16 16, upon an old foundation, situated by the gate of the park of the Bishop of Winchester, described as a certain great field called Southwark Park, by the Cross Bones burial-place, which was at the corner of Redcross Street. The park had been some 70 acres. As we learn from a Bishop's lease of 1704, it belonged to the see, and was attached to the palace, Winchester House extending from it westward. Monger's brewhouse is noticed in 1638, and appears as abutting upon Deadman's Place and Globe Alley. In a sewar presentment of 1640, ' the brewer, Monger of Deadman's Place, is directed to repair a wharf and sewar from Deadman's Place to his brewhouse.' The wharf was the dry pathway or landing- place bounding the sewar, and the sewar was in plain terms a ditch or waterway of more or less size. The river-side was a place of continuous ebbs and flows, and connected with it were these waterways appearing in a bird's-eye view as a network of arteries and veins along the surface. Close at hand the Cordwainers have in Horse Shoe Alley and Maide Lane some property left to them by a generous member of the craft. Referring to this property at the same time with Monger's, ' the jurie of Sewars present the master wardens, assistants, and others of the Companie of Cordwayners of London, to wharfe with piles and boardes the bank of the cross ditch or sewar against their land in Mayde Lane, over 52 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. against the waie by the place where the bowHng alley lately was ; ' and further to illustrate the character of the neighbourhood at the time, there is ' an indictment of 1688 against an owner for not putting posts and rails along Maid Lane, by the ditches as far as Beggars' Hall.' In the Water Poet's amusing story ^ of Fletcher's Feast, from which I shall presently quote, mention is made of a ditch before his door, which further illustrates the actual state of things. Immediately east of the Cordwainers' land, close to the spot now known as Bank End, was another brewery, the Vine, upon ground once belonging to the gild of the Blessed Virgin at St. Margaret's. Monger's, the Vine, and the Cordwainers' ground were all either within the space now occupied by Messrs. Barclay and Perkins, or between that and the river. The parish records from the first show this to have been a very favourite spot for the business. At the south-eastern end of the brewery (I apply the words, the Brewery, to the site now occupied by the firm of Barclay and Perkins) was, extending from Counter Lane, afterwards Counter Street, towards the Almshouses of Edward Alleyn at the soap-yard end of Cure's College, another brewery, that of Thomas Malyn, there in 1689. On the same site is shown in a parish map of 1720 Malin's yard, and in Rocque, simply the 'Brewhouse.' In the vestry minutes of 17 16 it is represented that 'Thomas Malyn wants to take down the old room where prayers have been usually read and a small house adjoining, belonging to the college, and to 1 Taylor's Feast at John Fletcher's lodgings in Addison's Rents, by the Bear Garden. II ALE AND THE BREWERS 53 lay the ground into his brewhouse.' They answer, ' He may have a lease of the ground for 61 years at a rent of £\ by the year, he to build at a convenient part of the College yard, at the west end of it, a new chapel and a gateway.' In 1658 the register shows the deaths of James, Leah, and Samuel Popular, a brewer family. Pople, no doubt one of them, holds the Vine in 1708. Our local historians, Concanen and Morgan, mention other brewers on the Bankside of wide repute, but one by one they apparently disappear, and leave almost alone the great Anchor Brewery to represent them. Aaron's rod has swallowed up all. In 1698 John Cholmley, brewer, of Morgan's Lane, and Charles Cox of Hay's Wharf, next Mill Lane, were elected Members of Parliament for Southwark ; they sat continuously till 1710. A crisis in the affairs of the nation occurred in 1701 — people felt a dread of the French King, the Pope, and the Pretender. The City of London and Borough of Southwark had chosen by a great majority two worthy persons, and had given instructions to them, very whiggish instructions, as Macaulay^ says. In a broadsheet of November 1701, now before me, the deliberate advice of the inhabitants of Southwark is presented to Charles Cox and John Cholmley at the Bridge House Hall, ' not to defer supplies, to be tender of the person of his Majesty (William III.), to endeavour that no indignity be offered to a Prince born for the good of Europe, who has so often and generously exposed his life for the liberty of his country 1 Oldmixon's History of England, p. 249- Macaulay, vol. v. p. 32. 54 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTH W ARK against the common enemy.' 1708. — Our two members are still in favour. The election is the subject of corre- spondence between two foremost men, Sunderland and Marlborough. 'The campaign,' says Sunderland,^ 'has begun by the election for Southwark, and one may venture to prophesy a better parliament than the last.' On the death of the brewer Cholmley, Edmund Halsey, also a brewer, and predecessor of Thrale at the Anchor Brewery, was in 1 710 declared elected. Southwark had a very lively time over this election. The Marshal of the Bench, with his large following of debtors and others, declares for Halsey, and uses threats to compel votes. One of his Mint prisoners, the well-known Tate (Tate and Brady), hack writer, poet laureate, arranger of plays for Southwark Fair, and paraphrast of the Psalms, wrote the political address for Halsey, who is, however, unseated, and Sir George Matthews is declared duly elected. Halsey the brewer did a great deal of business at the gaols, and in truth Southwark unfortunately had a large minority of its people in gaol and in the rules at this period. These miserables tried to drown sorrow or ' kill time' by drinking. 600 pots of beer were supplied at the Marshalsea on a Sunday afternoon for the purpose — so Howard says in his book on prisons. At the Bench ^ close at hand in the Borough, 500 butts were drawn in a year on the Common Side. In an outbreak, 1771, the prisoners suspecting that the strong beer was unduly weakened, some 50 butts belonging to the Tap were 1 Hist. MSS. Comm., App., 8th Report, p. 32. 2 Boyne gives as a tolien of the gaol tap — O. ROBERT . STONIER . AT . Y^ . KINGS . BENCH . IN. R. SOVTHWARKE . HIS . HALFE . PENY . 1 669. J II ALE AND THE BREWERS 55 destroyed/ i.e. by way of impressing the fact upon the authorities. Halsey sells a great deal of beer and is much in favour. Naturally he gives a good word for Acton the gaoler, who is in serious trouble for cruelty to a prisoner, ending in death. The gaols were, in deed and in name, hells.^ Their condition was at this time drawing the attention of influential personages. Apropos of the election is the gossip of an amusing meeting at the Horse Shoe, otherwise the ' Sacheverell ale house,' Stone's End, in 171 2. 'The question is,' says one, ' shall we vote for Sir Geoirge or not ? I cannot but say,' he continues, ' that he who brews good drink is a useful member of the commonwealth, for good ale breeds good blood, and good blood breeds good bodies, and good bodies breed good souls, and good souls go to heaven. When I was a lad I went to Margaret's Hill in an election for our borough, when two lawyers and two brewers opposed each other. Some cried, two brewers, some, two lawyers. But my father rode up and said, '■' Sorry to see you in extremes ; keep the golden mean, have one brewer and one lawyer, and you shall have some grains and some brains.'"^ Sir George, a man of experience, and not long since a brewer, was preferred. 1 Ann. Register. 2 The Marshalsea, or Hell in Epitome, was just then published. 1 7 1 8. 3 ' A merry New Year's gift, or the Captain's letter to the Colonel about the late elections in South wark.' 17 12. CHAPTER III THE ANCHOR BREWERY Having in this irregular way described our earlier brew- ine trade, and matters connected with it, the leviathan of Southwark breweries alone remains for consideration, and from its notable associations it demands a more particular and lengthened account. The Brewery — that title is sufficient in the neighbourhood— was formerly known as Thrale's of Deadman's Place, now with an appearance of finality the Anchor Brewery of Messrs. Barclay and Perkins, Park Street, Southwark. Every- thing favouring, among the rest its proximity to the Thames and to London Bridge, and its position in the midst of friendly people, as I may call the kindly-disposed authorities of St. Saviour's, its growth and prosperity appear not the less stupendous. The historical associations are in a high degree re- markable ; except perhaps the very centres of govern- ment and trade, no spot in London might so worthily excite feelings of curiosity and wonder as these few acres, nor, if we were still as superstitious as of old, is there any place to which pilgrims might come with more CHAP. Ill THE ANCHOR BREWERY 57 fitness from all parts of the English-speaking world. Dr. Johnson, at the sale of the business, vaunted its capabilities in high-flown language. The superstitious old Doctor would doubtless, had he known, have dwelt upon the fact, as an omen of luck, that within the bounds of the brewery had been found the signs of a Roman burial, the remains of a skeleton with a bowl of coins of the lower empire between what once had been the knees — an omen indeed ! • The Romans must have been monied people. Over and above the coin for Charon the ferry- man, his fare for taking them across to the Elysian fields, or by whatever name they called the home of the here- after, they usually dropped plenty in with their dead or in their houses. We rarely dig even now a few feet down into our foundations without coming upon some exquisite pottery and coin. About the time^ the Globe Playhouse was being built within the now brewery precincts, by the Burbages, who were indeed the first builders of regular playhouses in London, religious reformers — Brownists and others were holding little meetings in privacy, in widows' houses and in the by places about the Bankside. Shakespeare knew the Brownists, putting into the mouth of one of his characters, 'I had as lief be a Brownist as a politician.' ^ South-east within the present limits of the brewery, as nearly as I can judge where the stables now are, was the Dead- man's Place Meeting-house. From this little chapel and its neighbourhood we follow noted names of 1 1 599- 1600. 2 Twelfth Night, Act III. Scene ii. 58 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK many who fled for freedom of worship to Holland or to America. Surely a very sacred spot. Incidentally in another way these chapels of two hundred and fifty years ago are worth notice. Their later registers of deaths and baptisms are still preserved at Somerset House (the earlier records having been lost or destroyed). From Deadman's Place there is a book which begins ist November 1738, evidently a continuation of a previous register, lost, alas ! for it would probably have been of great interest to us, knowing what we do of the cruel struggles among these first societies. In this register Guy, who founded the hospital, is curiously but not un- naturally sainted. 1758. — 'Mrs. Draper is buried from St. Guy's hospital.' 1770. — 'Buried Mr. Cruden, Eslington ' (Cruden of the Concordance). 1778. — 'Mr. George Clayton.' 1 789. — ' Richard Harris, St. Saviour's. M.X.. 49.' Some remarks worth transcribing are in this case appended. ' There having been a hard frost, so that the Thames was passable and booths were erected thereon. On a sudden thaw a brig broke loose and was carried through London Bridge ; her mizen mast brought down some balustrades of the middle arch, and from a too presumptuous curiosity this poor man was killed on the bridge, a stone falling on him.' The register book has a note to this effect, ' The old meeting standing adjoining the burial ground was pulled down in 1788; the congregation removing to their new meeting house in Union St. Borough, Jan. 2, 1788.' A very good ground-plan of the old place and its surroundings is shown in Rocque's map of 1 746. A few years since, at the time of the final inclosure within the brewery, I paid THE ANCHOR BREWERY 59 a visit to this spot, and in my mind's eye saw the dust of some of the very first Brownists who were buried here by their chapel, probably at the close of the sixteenth or beginning of the seventeenth century. It continued to be a burial-place for dissenting people even to this century ; long after the removal of chapel and congrega- tion, some disused graves were open and some memorial stones were leaning against the wall. All was being decently buried out of sight. But what wonderful memories and trials are associated with this little spot in Deadman's Place. Here, in the time of the plague of 1603, a great pit referred to in 'the Meeting of Gallants at an Ordinarie,' was opened for the dead, who were carted to the spot and unceremoniously shot in. Another, the Globe Meeting-house, Maid Lane, was north-west of the Anchor Brewery. Concerning this, in the register book, apparently in the minister's own hand, is the following curiously particular statement, ' 1755, Nov. 3. I have been at Globe Alley Meeting, 22 years, 5 months, 2 weeks, and 3 days to this 26 April 1778, in all 420 baptisms, by me Charles Skelton.' The Rev. Charles Skelton died 23d October 1798, aged 'jt, years. In Deadman's Place there was a headstone to the memory of him, his wife, and five children. A copy of it is given in Wilkinson's Londina. The name appears as that of the first pastor of the church of Christ at Salem in New England in 1630. ' Scelton for Christ did leeve his native soile.' ^ Not unlikely, when we consider the 1 The wonder-working providence of Sion's Saviour, being the relation of the first planting in the yeare 1628. 6o THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARD chap. exodus of known religious people from this neighbourhood, he was even a family connection. Some time since Mr. Furnivall and I were favoured with permission to inspect some old deeds now at the Brewery, which contain a few important words as to the Globe Playhouse, upon the site and actual foundation of which the Globe Alley Chapel was built. We did find two or three important passages and indications, sufficient, I hope, to encourage the firm, if such has not been already done, to have the deeds and plans thoroughly inspected, so that everything bearing upon these points might be written down, making in this way a very important and interesting addition to the archives of the Brewery. The New Shakspere Society might well obtain per- mission to publish every word and every diagram bearing upon the subject, and so once for all prevent the trouble and annoyance, as it must be, of farther search. In one of the deeds referred to — Sir Mathew Brand! to Memprise, 1626 — certain messuages con- veyed are thus bounded : ' by the King's highway called Deadman's Place on the east ; by the brook or common sewer dividing the land from the park of the Bishop of Winchester on the south ; by Lombard ^ Garden on the west ; and by the alley or way leading to the Globe Playhouse on the north.' In another deed — 1 732, Wads- worth to Ralph Thrale — messuages are conveyed 'fronting 1 Sir Mathew Brand was the owner of the freehold on which the Globe Playhouse was built ; the playhouse was pulled down in 1644, and re- placed by tenements. 2 Land belonging to Humphrey Emerson of St. Saviour's, occupied by Bartholomew Lambert or Lombard in 1603 for a garden. Associated afterwards with a parish charity, pleasantly known as 'God's Providence.' THE ANCHOR BREWERY a certain alley or passage called Globe Alley, in antient times leading from Deadman's Place to the Globe play- house.' Some years after the playhouse had disappeared, the Wadsworths, wealthy people of Globe Alley, built, in 1672, this chapel ^ for their persecuted relative Thomas Wadsworth, the minister ejected from St. Mary, Newing- ton, and from St. Lawrence, Poultney. It is described as a good capacious wooden building, occupying a space of about 2000 square feet, having three large galleries. In 1676-77 Richard Baxter of the Saint's Rest occupied the pulpit ; his enemies who had persecuted him from place to place suffering him to preach many months in peace, away from Jeffreys and his like. It was very common then for religious people to pour out their feelings in a sort of pious laudatory doggerel ; a specimen ^ in favour of Wadsworth will explain what I mean. ' At length by counsel he did come to dwell At Peckle-herring, a place known full well ; But when preached two sermons had at Dead-place, His master sent grim death to look him in the face. Two sermons he did preach every Lord's Day, Each morn in week he did expound and pray ; Besides he often visited his flock — He sought the flock more than he did the fleece.' The chapel was in use as a Presbyterian meeting until well on in the last century. Sir Harry Trelawney, the head of an old Cornish house, and an eccentric amateur 1 Named indiscriminately, at first Globe Alley, and then Maid Lane eeting-house. 2 Broadsheet. B. M. 29th October 1676. Meme head, cross bones, shovel, etc., and a hinette at head. Meeting-house. 2 Broadsheet. B. M. 29th October 1676. yj/m^«/^ ;«or« with death s 62 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. preacher, held forth from this pulpit in 1789. In a con- temporary list ^ we have relating to this chapel, ' Globe Alley near the Bear Garden, Presbyterian Independent;' within sight, that is, of the Bear Garden known as the Hope, which had been suppressed^ but for a short time was revived. The general features of the neighbourhood could not have greatly altered in 1 746 ; if so, a fair ground-plan of Globe Alley and its surroundings may be seen in Rocque's realistic map of London and its suburbs. By Acts of Parliament, 26 and 52 George III., a very great, an almo-st complete change is effected — Globe Alley disappears, the ground in every direction becoming included within the bounds of Thrale's and Barclay's premises.^ On the south and west the brewery was bounded by Castle Lane, Castle Street, and Castle Court : what this name implies seems to be explained by Salmon in his Antiquities of Surrey : ^ he says, ' Where Southwark Castle stood, is an office for making vinegar, contrived by the ingenious Mr. Rush, with which he has, by foreign fruit and English manufacture, been able to supply his country without the expence of fetching sauce from abroad. The ground employed in this then great business is computed at about 7 acres.' This statement by Salmon appears well founded, for in 1509 Sir Thomas Brandon gave to Lady Guylford his place in Southwark which he held of the Bishop of Winchester, the same, no doubt, referred to in 1531 as 'Guldeford Castle at Suthwerk, where a com- 1 List of Conventicles, 1683. 515 L. 18. British Museum. 2 Vide Acts, published 181 2, pp. 4, 32. 3 1736, p. 17. Ill THE ANCHOR BREWERY 63 mission of gaol delivery was to be held.' ^ Here, I suppose, we have the origin of the modern Guildford Street and Castle Street. I may remark that Rush was succeeded by Messrs. Arthur and Charles Pott, still represented by their descendants. The Peabody Buildings now occupy a large portion of the ground. It is a curious fact that one Arthur Pott is named in the Token-book of 1600 as of this neighbourhood, i.e. of Globe Alley. Another curious fact noticed is that three conspicuous traders were just then three women — in the vinegar trade the widow Rush ; in iron, the widow Crawley ; in brewing, Lady Parsons. In this century may be also mentioned as successful women of business, the widow Mountain, who kept the Saracen's Head, Snow Hill; the widow Nelson, the Bull Inn, Aldgate ; and Miss Fromont, who kept the King's Head, Thatcham— all these three ladies among the largest coach proprietors in the kingdom before the railways, the last notably on the western road. We see by the map of 1 746 how small a place the brewery then was; in 18 14 it had enlarged to about six acres, in 1835 to ten acres, in 1875 to probably more than twelve acres, and considering that it is now bounded every way by public roads it is hard to see how it can extend any farther. But I must retrace my steps a little, and say something of those who made it a brewery, and of those who have succeeded to it. Some good words are due to the proprietors of this princely establishment ; no doubt a place with such renowned historical associations must bring a good deal of benevolent trouble upon them— 1 Letters and Papers. Rolls Publications, s. d. 64 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. indeed I have observed as much. Happily they are pubHc- spirited people, so such trouble is perhaps after all a pleasure, and even if it means occasionally some expenditure of time and money, this must be altogether insignificant to the firm of Barclay and Perkins. Those acres are, as it were, of sacred import and interest to the very ends of the English-speaking world — the pos- session of them involves a sort of duty, I suppose, and indeed is equivalent to a badge of high distinction and honour. Not long after the disappearance of the noted play- houses, indeed before the Hope had passed away, a good authority 1 tells of one. Child, having a brewery here before Halsey and Thrale and Barclay. A public record ^ of 30th April 1 666 appears to confirm and throw light upon Dr. Doran's statement. It is headed, ' The King to the Brewer's Company, and recommends Josiah Child, merchant of London, who has done faithful service in supplying the navy with beer, and has bought a brew- house in Southwark to brew for the household and navy, for admission as a free brother of the same company, for the same fee as the late Timothy Alsop the king's brewer paid,' so that curiously an Alsop appears as a precursor to Barclay and Perkins. It will also appear that a brewery was on the spot before Child came. Josiah Child had extensive dealings as a merchant, he had ships trading to New England and elsewhere, and was a partner with John Shorter who resided on the Bankside, and was, it appears, a friend to John Bunyan. The firm, 1 Dr. Doran, Notes and Queries, i6th August 1862. - Cal. Dom., 6 Charles 11., 1665, p. 129. THE ANCHOR BREWERY 65 Josiah Child and John Shorter, in 1665 ^ supplied the navy with stores, 'masts, yards, bowsprits,' and what not. I do not know when the brewhouse was first called the Anchor. It is a fair inference, Child being especially an owner of ships and a contractor for the navy, that the sign originated with him. A trade token of the Anchor in this locality is known, issued by Elizabeth Joyne, 'at y^ anchor in Maide Lane 1667,' but her business was most likely a small affair ; and Child's brewery must by this time have been of some consider- able extent ; certainly this small anchor may have given a hint of the name, and have been absorbed in the brewery ; we can only conjecture. In this South wark brewery of Child which Dr. Doran calls ' The Anchor,' Edmund Halsey,^ who had quarrelled with and left his father, a miller of St. Albans, took service as a labourer. He by honesty and hard work, with what we now call ' go ' in him, rose to be chief clerk, married his master's only daughter, and succeeded to the business. In 17 10 he was elected M.P. for Southwark, 1 Sir John Shorter was buried in the Lady Chapel, St. Saviour's, with this inscription, ' Here lies Sir John Shorter, Knt., who died Lord Mayor of London, 1688.' The celebrated John Bunyan is said to have been his chaplain, perhaps unofficially. ' He gave a piece of ground to build a house on, and £^0 to be improv'd,' for the benefit of Christ Church Parish, Southwark. — Hatton's New View of London. See also Corner in Notes and Queries, 2d Series, vol. xi., 8th June 1861. 2 I observe one curious fact which may mean something or nothing. In the Sacramental Token book St. Saviour's, 1634, is this entry, 'John Alsey three tokens,' the very next entry being, 'the Brewhouse four tokens.' Benson, MSS. B. M. Another in the Register St. Saviour's, which may also be of some or no import, burial of 'John Thrale a clarke, Nov. 5, 1669.' F 66 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. but was unseated; in 1722 he was again elected, this time with another brewer, Meggott of St. Olave's, father of the noted miser Elwes ; Halsey continuing to represent Southwark until his death, 23d January 1727-28. The Halseys had but one child. This little Anne Halsey, the brewer's heiress, married Richard Temple, Viscount Cobham, who was the friend of Pope and the creator of the gardens at Stowe. On the death of Halsey, Lord and Lady Cobham inherited the brewery. Halsey had brought up from Offley in Hertfordshire a poor nephew of his, Ralph Thrale,^ a good-looking fellow, and as industrious as he was comely. Ralph in course of years became manager of the brewery ; he married, and by the marriage seems to have offended his uncle, having indeed obtained the very lady that the uncle would fain have had for his second wife, and so he got nothing at Halsey 's death. Thrale having, however, by this time acquired money and much experience, purchased the brewery of the Cobhams, and soon increased the business considerably. At his death it passed to his son Henry Thrale, known more, curiously enough, as Dr. Johnson's friend and benefactor than as the great brewer of Southwark. I may here incidentally notice the Lades, a family connected by marriage with the Thrales, and in a sinister 1 Doran, Notes and Queries, 3d Series, vol, ii,, 16th August 1862. John- son, who does not mention the relationship, says of the elder Thrale, ' He worked at six shillings a week for twenty years in the great brewery which afterwards was his own.' Blakeway's account (on the authority of the clerk of St. Albans) is that he married a sister of Mr. Halsey. The Thrale family appears to have been of some consideration in the town of St. Albans. THE ANCHOR BREWERY 67 way interesting to students of the past St. Saviour's. They were very busy people there ; Sir John married Ralph Thrale's daughter. They could not have been all bad, but some of these Lades were very bad indeed. The name appears prominently in Guy's will, and one was Member for Southwark in 1713 and 1722. A notorious Lade was chief of the select vestry of St. , Saviour's at the time. A petition was presented charging him and his fellows with all sorts of corrupt work, and this was signed by, among others, Edmund Halsey. Most probably the charges were all true, for at the same time that Lade's clique disappeared under pressure of the ecclesiastical court, some very important parish records disappeared also, and have not since been found ; indeed the investigation into past corruption had to be abandoned ; the evidence had apparently been made away with. But for this loss of records from 1628 to 1670, we should probably have known much more of the early brewery, and of other interesting Bankside matters. Miss Burney describes Lady Lade as a showily-dressed woman, tall, six feet high, and on her Dr. Johnson indulges his satirical verse — ' With patches, paint, and jewels on. Sure PhiUis is not twenty-one ; But if at night you PhiUis see, The dame at least is forty-three.' Her son, the spendthrift Sir John Lade, seems to have brought trouble and disgrace upon every one connected with him. The business to which Henry Thrale succeeded was a splendid one in esse, and more splendid in posse, al- 68 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. though comparing it with that which it has become in the hands of the Barclays, the epithet in relation to the past may seem somewhat of an exaggeration. Henry Thrale was not exactly a good man of business, and was often trying imprudent speculations, which nothing less than the gold mine in Deadman's Place could have carried him through. But for Mr. Perkins, the thrifty superin- tendent of the brewery, the business might, so to speak, have gone to the dogs, good as it was. At one time there was a debt of ;^ 130,000, and more was being borrowed, but through careful management all this, principal and interest, was within nine years paid to the last shilling. Among Thrale's other ventures, in this case, as ministering to the brewery, probably a legitimate one, was the Borough Waterworks, known first as Thrale's, and worked by horses. This was afterwards purchased and carried on by a company; in 1795 there were negotiations with the parish for a new lease of these waterworks, it was urged that the concern was a losing one, and that the place was in rapid decay, the holders could not repair, as the return was but two per cent. The lease was granted, to run from 1795 to 1856, and the rent advanced to £y^- Ii^ 1822 it seems to be getting more valuable — a new lease for sixty-one years is sought. Thirty-four years of the old lease at £y:) being unexpired, the vestry offers the extension at a rent of ^70, the lessee to expend ^600 on the premises. I have a very racy picture by George Cruikshank referring in caricature fashion to these works. Father Thames is sitting enthroned upon some round structure, ' the source of the Southwark Water Works ; ' he has a trident in his ni THE ANCHOR BREWERY 69 hand with dead animals upon the points, and is spilling a filthy liquid from a goblet, sewers are pouring in in all directions, the modern representatives of the 'black ditches ' of old time. On a house near is ' Horse Shoe Alley,' and a disgusted spectator is saying, 'What! do they drink that ? ' the answer being, ' Never mind ; any nastiness goes down in the Borough.' Thrale, who in 1752 had been sherift of Surrey, was elected Member for Southwark in 1765 on the death of Hume, and again in 1 768, heading the poll. 1 769 was an eventful time — both the Members being instructed 'to stand by the bulwark of our liberties and to make applica- tion for the redress of grievances, shortening parliament, limiting the number of placemen in parliament, and for appointing a standing committee for the purpose of examining public accounts.' ^ Thrale as a matter of course countenanced all the proposals at this meeting. In 1774 he was again elected at the head of the poll. A characteristic of Dr. Johnson was his ready good-humour to people of the lower class. At one of these elections a hatter observing his beaver in a state of decay, seized it with one hand, and clapping him on the back with the other, said, ' Ah ! Master Johnson, this is no time to be thinking of hats.'—' No, no, sir,' said the doctor, 'except to throw up in the air and huzza with,' accompanying his words with the true election halloo.'^ And this brings us to the connection between Johnson and the Thrales. Henry Thrale, a man of sense and education, liked intellectual society, in indulging which taste he was 1 At a large meeting held in the Town Hall. Ann. Register, 1769. 2 Piozzi Anecdotes. 70 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. largely helped by his charming little wife. She quite captivated Dr. Johnson, who was introduced by Murphy, a friend of both, at the beginning of 1 765.^ The Thrales and Johnson were soon on terms of perfect intimacy, with great advantage to the health and spirits of the latter, who as long as the husband lived always had with them a second home, where he was surrounded by unwonted comforts ; his irregular habits were kept in check and his melancholy diverted by Mrs. Thrale's vivacious talk. Before long a room was set apart for him both in town and at Streatham. Thursday in every week was the day on which the hospitable brewer was in the habit of entertaining his friends at the Southwark mansion. Dr. Thomas Campbell (the Irish doctor, not the Scotchman of that name) gives us a notion of these Southwark dinners. ' First course, soups at head and foot, removed by fish and a saddle of mutton : second course, a fowl they call Galena at head, and a capon larger than some of our Irish turkeys at foot : third course, four different sorts of ices, pineapple, grape, and raspberry : and a fourth. In each remove, there were, I think, fourteen dishes, the two first served in massy plate.' May 1773 Boswell had left town and does not mention a remarkable dinner given by Thrale at the Brewery. Sir Joshua Reynolds, Johnson, Goldsmith, Garrick, Burke, and Baretti were of the party. The table was laid in one of 1 There have been doubts as to the time of the first acquaintance. Johnson places it in 1765, Mrs. Thrale in her Anecdotes says 1764, but these were not written till two years after Johnson's death. In her journal called Thraliana she confirms his statement, and fixes the date. Her words are as follows : ' It was on the second Thursday of the month of January 1765, that I first saw Mr. Johnson in a room.' Ill THE ANCHOR BREWERY 71 the new brewing coppers ; the principal dish was beef- steaks dressed at the furnace/ 1780 was the time of the Gordon Riots ^ when South- wark very notably suffers. Thrale had evidently taken the more just view on behalf of the Catholics, so it was diligently circulated that he was a Papist. The town house at the brewery had been thrice attacked, but was saved by the guards, and by the happy presence of mind of Mr. Perkins. The house threatened with destruction was filled with soldiers, the children, plate, and other valuables having been promptly removed. The obscure little chapel in Crosby Row, Snow Fields, behind the Marshalsea, built by John Wesley,^ in which I have been always greatly interested, did not quite escape scot free ; the cost for damages done in the rioting, as it appears in the accounts, was put down at only 8d. It was in an out-of-the-way corner, but the disturbances reached that corner. The trouble over, Mrs. Thrale induces her husband to take a fine house in Grosvenor Square. The riots and the soldiers quartered to protect the property had disgusted them with dingy, unfashionable Southwark.* Altogether it was too much for Thrale — he very soon died of apoplexy ; and truth before everything, this very worthy, sensible man was a little too fond of indulging his appetite, which may perhaps have contributed to the attack. To retrace our steps a little, the Thrales had many 1 Life of Reynolds, ii. p. 53- 2 Dickens in Barnaby Rudge gives a masterly account of it all. 3 The same a Sunday School which I attended from 1815-16.' * Life of Sir Joshua Reynolds. 72 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. friends, and a distinguished set they were. Gold- smith, who appears at that hospitable board, had once practised on the Bankside as a doctor, in tarnished second-hand finery, and Reynolds is said to have taken models, notably one for Puck, from the brewery. Among the habituh was Topham Beauclerk, according to Wilkes ' shy, sly, and dry,' the husband of a beauty who had been divorced from Lord Bolingbroke on his account. He was commended to Johnson partly by a likeness to Charles II., whose descendant he was, being a grandson of the first Duke of St. Albans. As Lord Macaulay says, ' There were probably never four talkers more admirable in four different ways than Johnson, Burke, Beauclerk, and Garrick,' and they were, I should imagine, matched with a good fifth in Mrs. Thrale. We are most of us more or less familiar with these people and their doings from that most naive and truthful of all biographers, Boswell. Let those who wish to refresh their memories take a spell at the famous new edition by the Rev. Alex- ander Napier, now unfortunately taken from us, and by Dr. Birkbeck Hill. Johnson knew the neighbourhood well, and one of the wisest of St. Thomas's Hospital physicians was his friend, and yet he says that 'people live as long in Pepper Alley as on Salisbury Plain,^ and further asserts that they are much happier there. The fact is that Johnson was a genuine Londoner; with his defective eyesight it was impossible for him to enjoy the beauties of nature, and he could not imagine pleasure in life without a great deal of commune with his fellowmen. He probably knew nothing of the story of the Harvards, ' Anecdotes, by Mrs. Piozzi. Ill THE ANCHOR BREWERY 73 when, next door to Pepper Alley as it were, the plague — a fever of filth and bad living — cleared that family out in 1625, and with them a fourth of the people of St. Saviour's parish. However, of course, he was not looking so far back. But now comes the important day. Thrale is dead, and the brewery is being managed by a somewhat heterogeneous quintet : it must be sold. Mrs. Thrale had told Perkins that if he would find a purchaser she would present his wife with their fine dwelling-house in Southwark and all the furniture ; ^ a good bribe, which soon came into the hands of Mr. Perkins. The executors, Mrs. Thrale, Messrs. Cator, Crutchley, Smith, and Dr. Johnson, all of them more or less deficient in the necessary special knowledge, and by no means pulling together, would, one may imagine, soon have wrecked the concern. Dr. Johnson, however, was gifted, where his prejudice did not interfere, with strong common sense ; he alone of them all appeared to appreciate rightly the future of the brewery. His delightfully Johnsonese utterance that ' they were not there to sell a parcel of boilers and vats, but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams of avarice,' was not, as it appeared to Lord Lucan, mere rhodomontade. The price paid, ^135,000, the equivalent of a million now, perhaps, huge as it seems, was not too much ; the 32,000 barrels of beer brewed in 1759 and the 500,000 barrels of 1875 tell the story. The purchaser of the brewery from Thrale's executors was David Barclay, grandson— not son, as Madame 1 Madame D'Arblay. 74 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap: D'Arblay says — of the Barclay who wrote the Apology for the people calledin scorn Quakers ; that same Robert who, 'clothed in sackcloth and ashes, walked through the streets of Aberdeen and testified against its people.' The apologist died early, but it says much for the constitutional strength of the parents, that all their seven children were still living fifty years after his death.^ The first firm known everywhere as Barclay and Perkins consisted then of David Barclay, son of David, the rich City mercer, who entertained three successive kings — the Georges; of his nephew Robert, born in Philadelphia, who married Rachel Gurney ; and of Henry Perkins, Thrale's clever manager. Mrs. Thrale, full, no doubt, of anxiety, went early to town on the day of sale to meet the other executors and Mr. Barclay. 'She told me,' says Miss Burney (Madame D'Arblay), 'that if all went well she would wave a white pocket handkerchief out of the coach window,' which she could happily do. The Barclays were indeed wise people. They readily saw how prudent and practical a man Mr. Perkins the manager was, and that to ensure success it was necessary to give him a free hand and the position of partner. So he earned Thrale's house and furniture, and his became the second name in the wonderful firm of Barclay and Perkins. The house, I suppose, was practically the same as that represented in Corner's Illustrated Manning and Brays Surrey,'^ now in the Guildhall Library ; it was, I believe, 1 Vide the short account of this remarkable man by Joseph Gurney Bevan. He came of a very ancient family. 2 Vol. iii. p. 589. in THE ANCHOR BREWERY 7S pulled down in 1832. A room^ over the counting-house was said to have been much used by Dr. Johnson, and on the opposite side of the street was a piece of pleasure- ground, planted with poplars and other trees, where he was in the habit of walking ; it was called Palmyra.^ Before taking leave of the Thrales, I may mention incidentally, for Mrs. Thrale was a Welshwoman, that there was, it was positively said, a Welsh colony con- nected with the brewery ; if so, which is somewhat doubtful, it had been in existence before the Thrales. A certain number of Welshmen are employed there now. For some years, probably since the beginning of the century, a public -house called the 'Welsh Trooper' stood on the Bankside, between Emerson Street and Windsor and Reddin's Wharves. It disappeared quite recently. One use which we hope this book may be put to, is to serve as a budget of hints and starting- points for those who love Southwark sufficiendy to add to and elucidate these old memories. In 1 8 10 a foreign visitor, Louis Simond, describes inier alia Barclay's Brewery in these words: 'About 200 men are employed ; the stock of liquor is valued at ^300,000 ; the barrels alone used to convey the beer to the customers cost about /8o,ooo ; the whole capital amounts to not less than half a million. There is stabling for 100 horses — large fine beasts, capable of much work.' The writer gives an account of the food 1 Local tradition used to affirm that he here worked at his Dictionary, but of course this was compiled years before he knew the Thrales, in the house still standing on the west side of Gough Square. He may have partly revised it here. .2 Vide Concanen and Morgan, History of St. Saviour's Parish, p. 231. 76 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. and the way the horses are dealt with, and he adds that the business pays to the Excise ;!^400,ooo annually. An episode which I cannot pass, and know hardly how to speak of, is that of the punishment inflicted upon Marshal Haynau on his visit to the brewery, 4th Sep- tember 1850, — a cruel punishment, no doubt. I cannot, however, at this moment call to mind any other, may I say, untoward event to which the phrase might more fittingly be applied, vox populi, vox Dei. It was a case of moral homoeopathy, the cure of cruelty by cruelty, or more mildly, that which is known as poetical justice, administered by a mob. The worst of it is that generally the mob — but perhaps we ought not so to call Barclay's employes — is as apt to punish the wrong as the right, and consequently lynch law is not held in repute. It is very probable indeed that here and there one of these administrators of lynch justice and virtuously indignant men did beat their wives sometimes ; but that, as some one says, is a purely domestic institution. It has been held in England that you may in reason beat your* own wife but not another man's. I have to my horror had occasionally to attend women with face and body mauled by nailed boots ; these were almost without exception Irish parish patients in St. George's, South- wark. I mean by all this that Haynau was, alas, not alone in cruelty to women. It appears that the signature of the Marshal in the visitors' book, kept at the brewery, betrayed him. I should like to see among the suggested archives a copy in autotype of this most interesting book. The Times of 7th September gives an account of the evidently very savage attack upon this hard old Ill THE ANCHOR BREWERY 77 man, and the Illustrated London News of 14th Sep- tember attempted a pictorial description of it, and of his escape into the George pubHc-house on the Bankside. We are told that the mob rushed after him, but bewildered by the number of doors failed to find him before the arrival of a body of police, by whom ' he was placed in safety in a police galley and rowed to Somerset House, amid shouts and execrations.' The draymen and the horses at Barclay's were, and I suppose are, fine specimens of their kind ; the horses were wonders in size and appearance. The draymen were in my time mostly regular soakers ; some more, some less. I attended many of them, notably one gigantic man, for erysipelas, and as it was needful I should know, so as to guide my treatment, how much he took daily, I asked him. 'Why, you see, sir,' said he, ' that I am one of the oldest of the men who go with the drays, and so my journeys are the short ones. I get a little drink at each place (besides what we get at the brewery)— beer and a drop of gin or what not.' — ' How much altogether ?' I asked. ' About three gallons of beer in the day perhaps, and a little gin now and then besides.' I could scarcely see how he managed to take it all down, but that was what he said. My practical conclusion was, 'Well, to get you over the erysipelas you must go on much the same.' He re- covered. I must say the men, so far as the shell was concerned, were often as fine as the horses, but there was a dreamy muddled look about the eyes, and they had a shambling sort of walk. This was many years ago ; I practised in Southwark nearly fifty years. 78 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. An article in the Licensed Victuallers Gazette of 20th March 1875, although permeated with strange errors and deficiencies in the early history of the place, contains a great deal of valuable information, among the rest a description of the buildings and brewing operations, from which I shall take the liberty to quote. I may premise that a somewhat minute and illustrated account of machinery and processes of 1841, that is, after the fire, is presented in a number of Knight's Penny Magazine for March of that year. The following particulars are mainly from the Licensed Victuallers Gazette. ' The ground on which the Anchor Brewery stands is about twelve acres in extent, im- mediately joining Bankside, and extending from South- wark Bridge and Road to the Cannon Street Railway Bridge, and thence northward through Park Street to New Park Street. Both sides of Park Street are occu- pied by the brewery buildings, and these are connected by a light suspension bridge. On the north side are extensive ranges of malthouses, and opposite to these, or nearly so, is the principal entrance. Little more than fifty years ago, a great portion of the various ranges of buildings was burned down. This fire gave the much- wanted opportunity of rebuilding in a more substantial and convenient manner. The new premises are for the most part built of iron, stone, and brick.' The report of this fire, taken from the Insurance Cyclopcedia^ of the late much-regretted Cornelius Wal- ford, is as follows : 1832. — ' At the fire at Messrs. Barclay and Perkins's Brewery, 2 2d May, all the premises were 1 Vol. iii. p. 365, etc. TJ^E ANCHOR BREWERY 79 -destroyed, with the exception of the Malt lofts, which contained some ^60,000 value of Malt. It was reported that the beams on one side of these lofts had caught fire ; but that Mr. John Braithwaite, with a gallon of water under his arm, and two pint-pots in his hands, extinguished these early flames, and so kept the fire in check until more efficient help could be brought. At this fire the first steam fire-engine manufactured was brought into play ; and it is further stated that beer, from vats con- taining some 2000 barrels, was poured out for the supply of the engines.' ' Thanks to the good fortune which in days when the clay of London had not yet become far more valuable per square foot than the goldmines of Russia and Brazil — Australia and California were not yet thought of — gave them so extensive an area on which to erect all necessary buildings, Barclay and Perkins, unlike some of their largest rivals, are enabled to be their own maltsters. How great an advantage this is, only a brewer knows ; and the malthouses in Park Street are indeed sights to see, and to be followed, from the cranes by which the barley is hoisted from waggons into the building, past the screens where it is cleansed, the cisterns where it is steeped, the couching frames where it is gauged by the exciseman, and the floors where the process of germina- tion is perfected, to the kilns where it is roasted until it receives the required colour, and so on to the bins where it is stored until wanted to be made into beer. In these bins there is storage for a quantity of not less than 15,000 to 20,000 quarters of malt. When required for use, it is passed by somewhat elaborate yet simple 8o THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. enough machinery to the measuring and crushing rooms, where it is bruised before being sent into the great boxes over the mash tuns. The mash tuns at the Park Street Brewery are capable altogether of mashing about 640 quarters. From these the wort passes into the under- backs, and thence to the coppers, where it is boiled with the hops. And here we may remark in passing, that whatever foundation there may be for unscientific asser- tions as to the use and abuse of quassia, absinthe, camo- mile, gentian, and other substitutes for hops, there are no signs of them at Barclay and Perkins's. Here are the hops themselves in evidence, from Bavaria, from Kent, from Farnham, and from Worcestershire, but no trace in all the twelve acres of a substitute. And be it remembered, that in a brewery where the operations are on so gigantic a scale it would be impossible to conceal these things if they were used. But to return. How many barrels can be boiled at one time in the coppers we are almost afraid to calculate ; but we are certainly within the mark in placing the united capacity of coppers and pans at 4000 barrels. From the coppers the wort is pumped to the hop backs — mighty vessels these, holding several hundred barrels — and thence to the coolers. From the coolers the wort passes to the refrigerators, and afterwards to the fermenting tuns, when it may for the first time claim a title to the name of beer, though it has yet to be cleansed from the yeast in the squares, which resemble nothing so much as a vast series of swimming-baths, and are calculated to contain something like three-quarters of a million of gallons of beer. From these the beer is conveyed to the racking squares, and THE ANCHOR BREWERY thence, when the process of settHng is complete, comes the last stage of the history, the beer being now run into barrels, every one of which is filled full to the bung, fitted with shives, and rolled along the tramroads to the stores ready for delivery. Not quite all of it, however, is thus disposed of; for although the old system of vatting has to a great extent gone out of use, it is by no means entirely abandoned, and in Barclay and Perkins's brewery there are upwards of one hundred and thirty vats, vary- ing in size from about 500 to 4000 barrels each. ' In an establishment where beer is made on this scale, the stores must be of commensurate capacity. Besides the vats, we see rows after rows of barrels extending for seemingly unlimited distances in the dimly-lighted stores, all of which are filled with beer, and from morning to night are being rolled to the different outlets, where the drays and vans are ever waiting to receive their freight. As soon as one is filled another takes its place, and during the hours of business the delivery goes on unceasingly. In this work are employed the stalwart draymen whose forms are so familiar to all Londoners, and nearly two hundred horses are required to deliver the beer to all parts of London. ' Another portion of the establishment, which strikes the visitor at once, is the cooperage, through which pass every year about half a million barrels. All these are made, repaired, cleaned, and examined in the yard, under competent superintendence. It is difficult to realise what half a million barrels really mean, so, by way of illustration, let us say that if placed side by side, bilge to bilge, they would extend from the brewery to Dover, G 82 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. thence to Deal, and back again to Park Street, and then leave enough to surround London with a strong rampart of beer. For many generations London water has had the same fame for the manufacture of brown beer that Burton water has obtained for ale. Indeed, it was long supposed ale could not be brewed with London water, but the attempt being made, the theory was soon ex- ploded, to the great disgust of the country brewers. Messrs. Barclay and Perkins have on their premises an artesian well, which has acquired some mysterious reputation with numerous people as being the source of the peculiar excellence of their stout and porter. This, however, is not the case. The water from the well is used for all purposes except brewing, the beer itself being actually made with the best water in the world for the purpose — that of the Thames, from which river it is drawn at a spot twenty miles above London Bridge. ' Much now, did space afford, might be said of the vastness, the resources, and the commercial splendour of the Anchor Brewery, but already more than enough has been written to prove that while the nation at large may well be proud of the enterprise of this magnificent association of private traders, the Licensed Victuallers of London, so large a proportion of whom are in personal relations with the house, have every reason to be proud of their share in the prosperity and welldoing of the great firm of Barclay and Perkins.' Among our pictorial illustrations is the Anchor, at Bankend, r.ot, as far as we can judge, older than the middle of the last century, but so near the brewery as to be probably one of the recognised taps. In a house of THE ANCHOR BREWERY 83 this immediate neighbourhood Pepys saw the great City fire of 1666. 'When we could endure no more upon the water,' he says, ' we went to a little alehouse on the Bankside, over against the Three Cranes, and there staid till it was dark almost, and saw the fire grow, and as it grew darker, appeared more and more, and in corners, and upon steeples, and between churches and houses, as ANCHOR PUBLIC-HOUSE. far as we could see up the hill of the city, in a most horrid malicious bloody flame, not like the fair flame of an ordinary fire.' It is impossible to say what alehouse this was, but as opposite the Three Cranes, the site of the Anchor, or of the George hard by, would be a sufficiently exact guess. This corner is sometimes very busy indeed ; see the multitude of stalwart porters land- ing malt from the barges for the brewery, keeping up the 84 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap, m large supply necessary for the stores there, which contain say from 16,000 to 20,000 quarters at once. This process would be much the same as that employed at Fresh Wharf for landing oranges. As Pepys might say, it is mighty curious to watch this endless string of men bearing their heavy burdens to the warehouses. CHAPTER IV THE INNS Enough has been said of the Southwark brewhouses, let me now , devote myself more exclusively to the main subject of our work, the old Southwark Inns. Of these, a few happily still survive, soon, however, to be numbered amongst the things of the past ; the names of others are applied to yards or modern taverns occupy- ing the original sites ; more frequently perhaps all trace of the former conditions has disappeared. Imitating Fynes Moryson, and Taylor the Water Poet, who wrote respectively in 1617 and 1630, I propose to take an imaginary walk among them, and to note as I pass along all that I think worthy of record. This plan admits of divergence into Tooley Street and the regions round about, before visiting the High Street, the head-quarters of Southwark inn life. To begin, then, on the north side of London Bridge. The Ram's Head by the river, next St. Olave's Church, is mentioned in the map of 1542 ; it was an ancient inn and belonged to Sir John Fastolfe, at the last it was devoted to charity or superstition, that masses might be continually said for the soul of the 86 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. donor. The Searcher after Claret^ finds food and sleeping at the Ram's Head, staying not long but hastening ' to the next bush,' the sign of the Leg in Boot. Two seventeenth-century trade tokens of this inn have been found, namely — O. lOHN . HICKS . IN = A ram's head. R. ST . TOOLEYS . STREETE = I . E . H and, O. THO . BLACKWELL . IN . TOGLY = A ram's head. \ R. STREET . SOVTHWARKE = T . B . B In two others, which may or may not belong to this inn, the street is not specified. Here are Taylor's^ rhymes which- he, in his facetious way, makes on each inn as he passes along — ' At Ram or Ram's head be it known to all, Are Wines predominant and capitall ; To set a Horseman quite beside the Saddle, And make a Footman's Pericranium addle.' A Ram, in the meat market, is in 1634 presented by the wardens for harbouring people during divine service ; but as few inns high or low escaped a presentment, it was not much of a warning. Some other presentments which will be noted in due course may yield instruction and a sad kind of amusement too. Near the Ram's Head, Tooley Street, and also once belonging to Sir John Fastolfe, was a well-known tavern, the ' Cok ' or Cock in Mill Lane. It was latterly a noted house for seafaring people, whose vessels, chiefly coasters, came to the wharves at hand, those of Griffin and others. It was a common saying down to my time, in the case of a 1 Hawkins, 1691. 2 John Taylor's travels by more than thirty times twelve signs, 1 636. THE INNS 87 missing mate or captain, ' Oh, he is at the Cock with his jolly companions ; ' and so it mostly was. In 1620 the Cock belonged to the Copley family. In a money dispute with Copley concerning the inn, the legal instru- ment was signed at the Church of St. Magnus over the bridge — it being a common custom to sign at the altar of a church, and so add solemnity to the binding act. At the present time there is a modern house in Mill Lane called the Old Red Cock, with a rather good •sculptured sign, drawn for this work ; it was taken from an older house close to the river, pulled down some years ago. "" There had been a fire, but the exact date I do not know. A somewhat old house, the Red Lion and Key, is near. Boyne, p. 452, has a token of it — O. lAMES . TOVCHiN . AT . YE . RED = A lion passant. I . A . T \ R. IN . MILL . LANE . I 666 = HIS HALF PENY. Hard by, in the Maze which had formed part of the garden of the Abbots of Battle, there was, says Stow in 1598, 'an inn called the Flower de Luce, for that the sign is three Flower de Luces,' ^ evidently a resort for French association and trade. He notes ' other buildings of small tenements thereupon builded, replenished with strangers and others, for the most part poor people.' 1 From the Royal Arms of France, assumed 1340 by Edward III. ; others say, from Earl Digby's Arms, viz. azure, a fleur de lis argent. THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK Dutch and French refugees and emigrants thronged to the river-side, and as a consequence Bordeaux and Rhenish winehouses were to be found thereabout. The Water Poet tells us that ' French flowers doth shew there's good French Wine to sell, Which he that tries will find, and like it well.' In the Royal Charter, 4 Edward VI., granting parcels of land in Southwark to the City, mention is made of the Flower de Luce,' with other inns which we shall de- scribe in this work ; for instance, the ' Mermaid,' the ' Horsehead,' otherwise the 'Nag's Head,' the 'White Hart,' ' Christopher,' ' Crown,' ' Blue Mead ' or Maid, and last, not least, the ' Circot,' that is, the 'Tabard.' It was common for trade to be carried on within the precincts of the larger inns. In 1565, Humphry Royden does his baking business within the Fleur de Lis. I may add that the penny loaf at the time was to weigh fourteen ounces until farther notice. 1634-35 the tenant of the Flower de Luce, Southwark, is to supply diet and pro- vision for the Dean of Canterbury, on his coming to London for audit and other business. The Maze must be imagined, as it is now the railways and warehouses almost cover it all. A short distance west of the Abbot of Battle's pleasure- grounds was for centuries the Inn of the Priors of Lewes, 'lodging,' as Stow calls it. According to our modern notions lodging is a modest name for a great house built of stone with arched gates, ' my poor house,' as the Prior might smilingly say in the manner of the time. Part of this site was at the dissolution occupied by the St. Olave's School, and part became the Walnut Tree Inn, marked THE INNS 89 later by Walnut Tree Alley, so called from a number of walnut trees which stood hereabout.^ Till the years 1830-32, two beautiful specimens of Anglo-Norman archi- tecture still existed at or near this spot, portions, no doubt, of the ancient dwelling ; they were then described by most competent observers, from whom I shall presently quote. Manning and Bray also in their History of Surrey, vol. iii. p. 599, published in 18 14, allude to these remains, and speak of ' fragments of gates and walls ; ' and so ex pede Herculem we. may judge of the whole. It seems that the De Warrennes, Earls of Surrey, the lords of Old Southwark, had here their manor house, built probably by William, the first earl, who founded the Priory of Lewes, or by his son, and the remains may point to this structure ; there are reasons for sup- posing that the Prior had no lodgings in St. Olave's till later than Earl William's death in 1138.^ Be this as it may, the property early passed into the hands of the church, and so remained until the dissolution. In 1531, 29 Henry VIII., Michaelmas term, Robert, late Prior of Lewes, levied a fine to the King of all the posses- sions of the Priory, in which fine the Church of St. Olave, and messuages, gardens, lands, and rents in Southwark, Kater Lane (Carter Lane), comprehending the site of the hostelry, are specified. i6th February following they w^r,e granted in fee to Thomas Lord 1 MS. St. Thomas's Hospital, 9th June 1572. 'Mr. Ware is ordered to survey the gardeyns of Mr. Wylson to se what trespasse he hath comytted by cutting downe of a Walnut tree or other trees there.' Walnut Tree Alley adjoined the hospital. 2 See the Graphic Historical Illustrator, 1834, edited by E. W. Brayley, F.S.A. 90 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. Cromwell, afterwards Earl of Essex, the hostelry being valued on the King's survey at _;^8 yearly. It appears that on the fall of Essex the hostelry was divided, the Walnut Tree Inn, which occupied its eastern site, coming into the hands of Adam Beeston. Curiously, there is at the Record Office a copy of Thomas Cromwell's will, and in the same inclosure a paper endorsed in pencil, ' a fragment of Cromwell's will,' but probably that of an immediate connection. After certain bequests mentioned in this will the residue is to go to Adam Beeston of St. Olave's, brewer. In 1582, the twenty-fourth year of Queen Elizabeth's reign, Cuthbert Beeston (probably his son), citizen and girdler of London, died seized of the Walnut Tree Inn, together with its garden and fifteen messuages in the adjoining lane, held of the Queen in chief, and worth yearly ^^5 : 6 : 8, and he seems to have owned other property, for in some Exchequer proceedings many years afterwards, namely in 1641, mention is made of the Walnut Tree and sixty-five other tenements, ' sometime Cuthbert Beeston's, held in capite by knight's service.' In Cuthbert Beeston's will, dated 1579, is this curious provision, that ' if the gospel is preached as now in the parish of St. Olave, a sermon is to be given quarterly, the preacher to have 5s. ; if not preached as now, which God defend, 20s. to be given to the poor of the parish, or among poor prisoners in the Southwark gaols ; 30s. for bread ; to eight poor maidens, honest and good maidens of St. Olave's, towards their marriage, each ros.' At his death the Walnut Tree Inn passed to a City company, and to Robert Cursen. A fine vaulted crypt, destroyed in 1832, doubtless THE INNS 91 formed part of this inn ; it was drawn and described by Charles Edwin Gwilt, whose paper appears in the Archcsologia, vol. xxv. He tells us that it was at the south-east end and east side of Carter Lane, about 250 feet south of the body of the Church of St. Olave. It was a vaulted chamber, forming an irregular paral- lelogram, which averaged about 26 feet by 21, with a plain central column of Anglo-Norman construction ; there were traces of windows and a doorway. In the Graphic Illustrator iox 1834 we are told that it 'was situated beneath some ancient wooden tenements oc- cupied by very poor people, in the place called Walnut Tree Alley.' It was at one time perhaps the cellar of the Walnut Tree Inn. Maitland (1739) says in his day it was used as a cider cellar, and so it continued to be used as late, at any rate, as 1813 : what purpose it had originally served can only now be matter of conjecture. The western portion of the ancient hostelry of the Priors of Lewes had been purchased by the parish as a site for the grammar school,^ founded in the thirteenth year of Queen Elizabeth's reign, which, together with part of the previous building, existed till 1830, when in consequence of the land being required for the approaches to new London Bridge the whole of 1 Of St Olave's Grammar School and its surroundings Schnebbelie did a view from the Flemish burial-ground, which touched it o"the south, and there is an excellent ground-plan. They are published m Wdkmson s Londina Illustrata (vol. ii. pp. 66, 67). The school has also been fully described in the Arch.olo.ia, vols, xxiii. xxv. and xxxvn:., by the competent hSd" of Mr. Gwilt, Mr. Gage, and Mr. Corner, and there are other sources of very pleasant information. 92 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. it was destroyed. Here also the Anglo-Norman remains were of considerable importance. They were situated a little more than 150 feet nearly due west of the crypt already described. A very full account of them appears in the Archceologia, vol. xxiii., the letterpress being by George Gage, and a series of drawings by the excellent topographical draftsman, J. C. Buckler, a few of whose sketches have been copied for this book. The remains consisted of two stories ; above were traces of what was supposed to have been the old hall of the Prior's house, which had been converted into the schoolroom,^ the original walls being retained to a height of ten or eleven feet in places, with new work grafted on to the old. Below was another vaulted chamber or crypt, which had been used as a wine cellar of the neighbouring King's Head Tavern. It formed a parallelogram forty feet three inches in length, sixteen feet broad, and fourteen feet three inches high, the vaulted roof being supported by arches springing from six semicircular pillars attached to the side walls. The entrance was by an elliptical arch ; it had five semicircular -headed windows, and a porch nineteen feet long ; there was no fireplace and no internal communication with the upper story. It was so arranged as to guard against river floods, which, from imperfect embankments, were not uncommon hereabout,^ the entry 1 When the schoolroom was taken down in 1830, under the floor a small brass coin of Constantius was found, and several seventeenth- century trade tokens, one issued from the Bear hard by. 2 In the Bermondsey Annals, in Stow and elsewhere, there is frequent mention of floods; e.g. 1208, Bermondsey overflowed; 1242, floods, drowning houses and fields; 1555, people traveUing by boats from New- ington to St. George's. As we even nowadays know something of this sort of thing, what must it have been when houses were built some ten feet THE INNS 93 Steps of the porch being at a level above the floor of the vaulted chamber. A few Roman tiles had been worked into the building. Mr. Gage speaks of 'the plain un- mixed character of the circular style in the crypt,' as showing what a very early specimen of architecture it was ; he thinks that it had been used as an inferior hall to the hostelry. There is also a description with plan in Wilkinson's Londina Illustrata, 1817 (vol. i. p. 139), which does not tally in all respects with that of Gage, and is certainly less authoritative. The Gentleman s Magazine, 1830, says that 'this ancient vaulting was unknown to the possessors of the upper part of its site, and was occupied for a century by persons who had casually broken- in from an adjacent souterrain.' It also speaks of an underground passage from the crypt in the direction of St. Saviour's Church. The school, with the upper part of this ancient building incorporated in it, was at the south end of Church Alley ; the ' Smits Alle ' of the Record Office map of 1542. Let us now return to Walnut Tree Lane, a short dis- tance east. The names of Carter Lane and Walnut Tree Lane or Alley seem to have been used indiscriminately. It has been shown that in 1531 the place is called Kater Lane; in 1629^ we find 'Walnut Tree Lane otherwise Carter Lane.' Again, ' Lying without the gate of the Walnut Tree in Walnut Tree Lane.' In 1688 mention is made of tenements, yards, and gardens at the back of below the present surface, and when we find a landing Or jetty from the Thames some feet below even that? The embankment, however, was carefully watched. An engraving in possession of the Society of Antiquaries, temp. Edward VI., rudely shows a very high river wall in Southwark. 1 App., 38th Report, Dept. of Public Records. 94 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. the Walnut Tree Inn, extending from the Hospital wall to the Pelican behind the Walnut Tree. I note this on account of an interesting fact : the property ' was pur- chased by Caleb Lovejoy, who was waggoner to Oliver Cromwell, in the time of the rebellion, and he instantly ejected some of the King's tenants.' ^ In Rocque's map, copied for this work, the lane appears as Walnut Tree Alley ; in H or wood at the end of last century it is Carter Lane. Here for a time was Carter Lane Chapel, built 1789, with the largest Baptist congregation in London. Two men, Rippon and Gill, were the ministers for nearly one hundred years. After its de- molition for the new London Bridge approaches, the con- gregation met in new Park Street Chapel, after that at the Surrey Gardens, and lastly at the Tabernacle. In 1854 the old pastor was succeeded by the Rev. C. H. Spurgeon; it would be impertinent in me to praise one of the most useful men that ever entered a pulpit. The mean little chapel in Carter Lane is represented now by that very important building, the Metropolitan^ Tabernacle at Newington. In imagination we may recall the Con- queror visiting his step-daughter at the house of her husband the Earl de Warrenne, — the inn of the Priors of Lewes, the grammar school of Queen Elizabeth, and the congregation of Baptists in Carter Lane, all oc- cupying almost exactly the same spot. The White Horse, in the High Street, near the corner 1 Exchequer Depositions, 3 and 4 James II., Public Record Office. 2 See The Metropolitan Tabernacle, by C. H. Spurgeon, 1876. Price one shilling. Illustrated. Mr. Spurgeon says of the old chapel, ' We trust the building was not so ugly as our drawing ; it was taken from a model in the possession of one of our members.' THE INNS 95 of Tooley Street and the Bridge Gate, is noted in a will of 1429: 'Robert Mokkyng, citizen and vintner, con- stitutes Thomas Rolf, William Daventry, Robert Aubury and Thomas Cok, feoffees of his messuages in Southwark, to wit an inn or tenement called the White Horse, a tenement called the Castle and others.' ^ There is a very impossible tale which concerns the White Horse, purporting to be from the Bristol Gazette, 2 2d June 1786, and discussed in Notes and Queries, 6th Series, vol. iv. This is the legend : ' On Saturday last, as Messrs. Wilcox & Co. of St. Saviour's, Southwark, were digging for the foundation of new houses, the workmen discovered a marble slab, 7 ft. by 5^ ft., covering a subterranean passage hewn out of the solid rock. By the aid of lamps, Mr. Wilcox and several gentlemen proceeded 196 yards, which ended in a circular compartment 25^ yards diameter and 12 feet perpendicular supported by two veined marble pillars of Tuscan order. Along the passage on both sides, 6 feet apart, are niches with figures in white marble, in com- partments of veined marble, of popish saints habited in their religious habiliments, with crucifixes, beads, etc. ; the amphitheatre has six niches filled with relics. Gold and silver coins of Julius Caesar were also found. At the farther end was an enormous toad, weighing 1 1 lbs. 9 oz., size of a full-grown capon, found alive, but died in less than an hour when brought to the air. It is kept in spirits.' I remarked in an after number of Notes and Queries that crypts were not rare in Southwark, notably at inns, no doubt from the need of dry substantial founda- 1 Corner, Surrey Arch. Col., vol. i. p. 194. 96 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. tions in a swampy soil, and of extensive cellarage ; we shall notice one or two in the course of our wanderings. In early times subterranean passages of great length are also said to have existed, like that mentioned a few pages back. Their existence would give rise no doubt to imaginative stories such as the above. The White Horse had its principal opening into Borough High Street, and another into Church Alley. As a place of business it is noticed in the History of Horsham — ' the carrier from that place lieth at the White Horse in Southwark ; ' this is early, but I have not the date. 1728. — New View of London, the carrier for ' Eaton Bridge ' (Edenbridge) is at the White Horse ; the business seems to have outgrown the premises, as Rocque shows the stables on the west side of High Street, next the Greyhound. 1 719. — White Horse Court and yard, containing twelve messuages or tenements, which include the King's Head Taverne^ at the upper end of said court, and known as the Hestor estate, are for sale ; the rent of the whole appears to be about £ 1 50 per annum. An Act of Parliament is required for the purposes of this sale, the owner-in-chief being a lunatic. ^ Hestor yard is occupied by a sugar-baker, so Strype says. Edition 1 720. Among northern peoples the white horse, or rather the horse, was an especially honoured emblem, which, so the legend tells us, accompanied Hengist and the invaders of Kent. The White Horse is still the symbol of Kent, and the words ' White Horse East Kent ' 1 The house mentioned a few pages back. It is called in Wilkinson's Londina Illustrata ' Southwark House, formerly the King's Head Tavern.' Not to be confused with the King's Head in High Street. 2 London Library, Tracts, vi. p. 356., THE INNS 97 form a favourite stamp upon hop pockets from that part. A view of the court drawn by J. C. Buckler early in the century is in the Guildhall Collection ; George Scharf CHEQUER YARD. senior also shows the High Street entrance in his draw- ing of the approaches to London Bridge, 1830. A new White Horse Inn is marked in Horwood's map of the end of last century, not far from St. George's Church, the site apparently now occupied by Leyton's Grove. H THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK Immediately south of White Horse Court, on the east side of the High Street, we come to Chequer Alley, opening into the High Street, about which I shall have a good deal to say. And first I think the origin of the sign may with profit be discussed. It is a remarkable coincidence that ancient Roman wine-shops used the chequers ; specimens have been disclosed at Pompeii, but one ' hardly sees how the modern sign could have descended to us from classical times. Dr. Lardner in his Treatise on Arithmetic, p. 44, gives the following account of its origin in England. I shall quote his words ; 'During the middle ages it was usual for merchants, accountants and judges who arranged matters of revenue, to appear on a covered " banc " (from the Saxon word meaning seat, hence our bank). Before them was placed a flat surface, covered by a black cloth, divided by parallel lines into perpendicular columns, these again transversely, by lines crossing the former, so as to separate each column into squares. This table was called an exchequer, from its resemblance to a chess-board, and the calculations were made by counters placed on its several divisions (some- thing after the manner of the Roman abacus). A money- changer's office was generally indicated by a sign of the chequered board suspended. This sign afterwards came to indicate an inn or house of entertainment, probably from the circumstance of the innkeeper also following the trade of moneychanger, a coincidence which is still very common in seaport towns.' 1 In Chelsea and in Aldgate are still instances of the connection referred to — the inn- keeper as a lender of money. We must not forget 1 Notes and Queries, ist Series, vol. x. p. 32. THE INNS that at early inns almost every kind of business was transacted ; no doubt among the rest, as clearly coming out of the contact of the wealthy innkeeper with those of his custonjers who needed help, some money- lending, or we may call it banking, was doubtless carried on. Brand, however, in his Popular Antiquities (Bohn's Edition, vol. ii. p. 353), supposes that the chequers were originally intended for a kind of draught-board called tables, showing that the game was played within. Another theory about the origin of the sign is given in the Gentleman s Magazine, September 1 794, as follows : ' I think it was the great Earl Warrenne, if not some descendant or heir near him, not beyond the time of Rufus, had an exclusive power of granting licenses to sell beer. That his agents might collect the tax more readily, the door-posts were painted in Chequers, the arms of Warrenne then and to this day.' A stained-glass win- dow, formerly in St. Mary Overy's Church, showed the figure of an Earl de Warrenne, and above, his shield — a shield of chequers. A drawing of it by Nicholas Charles, herald, 1610, is in the British Musuem. Here is a final suggestion ; the reader may take his choice : 'It has been related to me by a very noble personage that in the reign of Philip and Mary, the then Earl of Arundel,' a great Southwark noble and owner, ' had a grant to license public-houses, and part of the armorial bearings of that noble family is a chequered board, wherefore the publican, to show that he had a license, puts out that mark as a part of his sign.'^ In Hogarth's Harlot's Progress, chequers appear at the sign of the Bell in Wood Street, 1 Gentleman's Magazine, ]\me. 1793. THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK a famous old inn; this is an example of the chequers placed as an indication of a tavern, not the sign of the particular tavern on which they appeared. Hood, playing on the word in his inimitable manner, says of Lieutenant Luff, ' the only chequers in his course were at a tavern door.' The Chequers from similarity of form seem to be connected with the Lattice, which was originally a screen for the otherwise open window, giving ventilation with sufficient privacy. We have ' the Red Lattice in South- warke, where my hostesse a waterman's widow welcomes thee.i In the Meeting of Gallants, 1604, we are told that alehouses were commonly distinguished by red lattices. A manuscript note, by Mr. Halliwell Phillipps, gives the following definition : ' A coloured lattice, usually red, is a tavern or alehouse mark, and may be placed immediately over the door.' He cites from a City Match, 1639, as follows : ' A cottage with a chequered portell, called in old time a red lettice, the signal of something that tends to good fellowship.' Marston in the first part of Antonio and Melida, 1663, says, ' I am not so well known by my wit as an alehouse by a red lattice.' In Shakespeare's Merry Wives of Windsor we have, 'red lattice phrases,' that is, public-house talk. In King Henry IV., Part II., Falstaff's page, speaking of Bardolph, says, ' A' calls me e'en now, my lord, through a red lattice, and I could discern no part of his face from the window.' Ben Jonson's Cob, the water-carrier, dwells at the 'Water Tankard hard by the. Green Lattice, and had paid scot and lot these eighteen years.' The following from 1 Sliakerly's A Fine Companion, 1633. THE INNS Harrison, 1577, shows the construction of the lattice, ' Rifts of oak chequer wise is going out a Httle, now glass is getting cheaper.' Here is a note as to price: '8th May 161 2, Pd. for 5 yards of Lattice for the chapel window at 6d. a yard.' The number of quotations bear- ing on the subject might be largely increased. I venture to add that Pepys in his day notes 'the synagogue women behind the lattice out of sight,' and so our House of Commons still hides the ladies behind a grille. But to return to our main subject. Down to the year 1830, when all this neighbourhood was changed at the making of the approaches to New London Bridge, there stood facing the High Street, at the entrance to Chequer Alley, a very handsome double-gabled structure, part of which was latterly called Baxter's Coffee-house, No. 19 Borough High Street ; at the back of it was another tenement with remarkable interior decorations. This group of buildings I shall now consider. With regard to them we have a certain amount of early documentary evidence ; the more important part of this will be laid before our readers, and afterwards will be given later accounts and traditions. We must remember that the great Southwark fire of 1676 did not extend so far; it is therefore not surprising that these houses should have exhibited signs of a richer antiquity than the inns farther east. There seems strong reason for supposing that the house in front was originally called the 'Whyte Lyon.' In one respect I have the advantage of Mr. Corner, to whom I look up as one of my masters in Southwark antiquarian lore, as I do also to Mr. Gwilt and to Mr. Halliwell THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK Phillipps. Corner confused the White Lion Prison, by St. George's Church, with this White Lion next the Flemish burial-ground. The latter is simply described as 'a tenement,' the former was ^ a prison that bore so cruel a reputation in the time of religious persecution, when unhappy Brownists, Quakers, and Romanists were confined within its dreadful precincts. The White Lion we are discussing was part of the plunder of the monastery of St. Mary Overy, and passed to Robert Cursen at the dissolution. Among the records of the Court of Augmentations are the particulars of the grant by King Henry VI IL in 1545, the thirty-sixth year of his reign. ' The Whyte Lyon ' is here described as ' situate and being in the parish of the blessed Mary Magdalen in Southwarke, which said tenement on the east part abuts upon the new burying -ground of St. Olave's, and a garden belonging to the late monastery of Lewes, on the west part on the King's highway, on the north part on the sign of the Ball, late pertaining to the hospital of Thomas Becket, on the south part on a tenement belong- ing to Master Robert Tyrrell.' This gives the position clearly, and would quite apply to the house in question (vide map). The burial-place, called the Flemish Ground, existed till taken by the Greenwich Railway Company. In 1570, Mr. Cure 2 and others have dealings with the governors of St. Thomas's Hospital as to Chequer 1 So called, says Stow, ' for that the same was (had been) a common hostelry for the receipt of travellers by that sign.' 2 Thomas Cure, saddler to three monarchs, twice Member of Parlia- ment for Southwark, and a great benefactor to the parish of St. Saviour's ; his quaint epitaph, ' Respublica Curs, semper erat euro,' etc., is in St. Saviour's Church. THE INNS 103 Alley, for the benefit, as ultimately appears, of the poor of St. Saviour's. The following entry is from the Minutes of the Governors, 19th May 1572. 'At this courte, Willm. Broker, citizen and merchant taylor, and one of the guv'ners of the free scole of St. Mary Overyes, and H. Hamerton one of the churche wardeyns there, dyd pay unto Mr. Osborne for the interest of a lease of certeyn tents in Cheker Alley the some of I II pi- ' Mr. Osborne here noted became Sir Edward Osborne, Mayor of London and founder of the Leeds family ; the same of whom the apparently true story is told, that he jumped from a window of his master's house on London Bridge and saved his child, a daughter, from drowning, and when she grew to be a woman mar- ried her. Two or three seventeenth -century trade tokens of the Chequers have been found, issued probably from here, but we cannot now find out what house used the sign. A specimen which we have had drawn reads thus — O. AT . THE . CHECKER . IN = A chequered square. \ R. SOVTHWARKE . 1651 = I . I . R In Strype's Stow, 1720, Chequer Alley is described as ' small but pretty well built and inhabited.' It was a boundary of the parish of St. Saviour's, as was shown by a map in the vestry. I will now say something about the decorated build- ing inside the court, which may have formed part of the original White Lion. This house was for a long time known as the Three Brushes or Holy Water Sprinklers. In a deed of 1585 one Blaze and his wife of the Branch I04 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. family, and Thomas Bromfyld of St. Saviour's, South- wark, have to do with 'a large tenement the Holey Water Sprinckle, in the tenure of Thomas Bromfyld.' Religious signs were often changed to secular ones at the time of the Reformation ; however, the sign in question was retained, in leases at any rate, till late in the eighteenth century. The house passed from one to another. In 1652 it was conveyed by Thomas Overman to Hugh Lawton ; in the will of Nathaniel Lardner, 1767, a moiety of the ' Three Brushes or Sprinklers ' is left to his niece, Mary Lister, and the other moiety to the daughters of his nephew, Nathaniel Neal. In a plan attached to a lease, dated 1767, the house is called the 'Crown.' In 1783 the premises are described as 'All those two several messuages or tenements, formerly one messuage or tenement and afterwards three, situate in the parish of Saint Saviour, Southwark, heretofore called or known by the name or sign of ' The Holy Water Sprink- lers ' or the 'Three Brushes;' theretofore, in the several tenures or occupations of Henry Thrale, Esquire, Josiah Monnery, and John Hargreaves, but then in the occupa- tion of the said Josiah Monnery and Joseph Prince. This may indicate that the sign at one time applied to the whole group of buildings; not only to the tenement at the back. A trade token exists which has the following inscription — O. ROB . THORNTON . HABERDASHR = HIS HALFE PENNY. R . E . T R. NEXT . THE . THREE . BRVSHES = IN SOVTHWARKE. 1667. A Burn, in a note to the Beaufoy Catalogue, says, 'The Three Brushes was a tavern of some notoriety. In one of the many disgraceful prosecutions under the papistical THE INNS 105 reign of King James the Second, Bellamy, mine host of the Three Brushes, figured most contemptibly as a witness for the Crown, on the trial of the Rev. Samuel Johnson at Westminster Hall, on Monday, 21st June 1686.' Baxter's coffee-house. Competent authorities have sketched these houses in their later days both with pen and pencil, and have recorded their opinions concerning them. John Carter, one of the men who revived Gothic architecture, made, in 1767, a careful drawing of No. 19 Borough High io6 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. Street, known afterwards as Baxter's Coffee-house, and wrote underneath it, ' Ornaments carved in stucco in the front of a house built about Queen EHzabeth's time, near London Bridge.' George Scharf senior makes a bolder assertion. He accompanies a fine pencil draw- ing copied for our book with these words, ' The remains of Queen Elizabeth's palace, High Street, Borough.' John Timbs in his Autobiography says, but without giving any authority, 'In 1830 were removed houses of the time of Henry VII., with bay windows and picturesque plaster decorations, one said to have been the abode of Queen Anne Boleyn.' Again, in W. Taylor's Annals of St. Mary Overy, 1833, P- I34. is an illustration of the building in question, drawn a few days previous to its destruction in August 1830. He speaks of it as a good specimen of Elizabethan work latterly divided into two houses, and adds, ' I am inclined to think that they only formed a part of some more spacious building; adjacent to them are premises yet standing, which, I have no doubt, once communicated with them. The apartments here have an air of grandeur, one room in particular being in high preser- vation, having oak pilasters and panelling, with a lofty and rich fireplace, but partly modernised. The ceiling is particularly fine, being divided into numerous beautiful compartments. In the centre is the arms of England in a lozenge -shaped shield, with the initials E. R.' George Corner, at a meeting of the Surrey Archso- logical Society, exhibited drawings made by E. Hassell in 1830 of the very handsome interior. He describes this building at the back, which we presume to be THE INNS 107 the Holy Water Sprinklers, as situated ' in a small court between Baxter's Coffee-house and the house of the late Mr. Josiah Monnery, hosier and glover, and at the rear of the latter,' and says, ' It was occupied by Mr. Solomon Davies, a tobacconist, for some time during the progress of the new street to London Bridge.' From the descriptions I have quoted it seems clear that the decorations of the interior at the back were Elizabethan. On the other hand, in spite of the opinions expressed by Carter and others, the frontage facing the High Street appears to have been of later date. J. T. Smith, in his Ancient Topography of London, 18 10, p. 61, shows a house of oak and plaster, identical in style, which then stood in London Wall ; and asserts that in the early days of the marriage of Charles L to Henrietta Maria, eminent artists were doing foliated^ work of this description in France, and that, as was natural, we at the time imitated French fashions here. This opinion is supported by the distinguished architect, Mr. G. H. Birch, who considers the date of the external decorations of Baxter's Coffee-house to be about 1630. The Gentleman s Magazine for 1808, p. 177, has the following: 'In Borough High Street, 19 and 20, is a house, the front richly carved with ornaments, a coat of arms and a crest ; and till the front was repaired, various other devices — a castle besieged,' etc. So the views that have come down to us do not represent the frontage quite as it originally was. A somewhat trustworthy gossip of 181 5— the writer 1 None of this external decorative work now exists in London ; some interesting specimens are still to be seen in Fore Street, Hertford. io8 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. of the Epicure s Almanack — shows, among some good common truths, how much may be built upon a little. 'The department of cookery at Baxter's,' it says, 'is deemed inferior to ministering to the thirst of the customers, the carving-knife yields precedence to the corkscrew ; ' further, ' The house is interesting on account of its antiquity. It is part of a palace where Henry the Eighth — that king of English gourmands — once held his court. It is decorated externally with remains of royal insignia. Some of the rooms now occupied by a hop merchant have ceilings richly embossed with the arms of the royal Harry. It is said (how much " it is said " has to answer for !) that from this palace the portly monarch took a trip to Bermondsey Fair^ along with the Cardinal, and there fell in love with Anna Bullen, who appeared there in her gayest, by appointment of the holy Cardinal and chief minister himself.' And yet there may be some foundation of truth even in this. I have note of such a visit to Charlton Fair, and an entry of small sums paid to some clowns who rendered help to the King and Cardinal in their sports at this fair. I would also point to the great printing press of James Nicholson hard by, in the house adjoining St. Thomas's Hospital, which, no doubt, drew to South wark one time or another very eminent people. A Bible printed here in 1535-36, by license of Henry VIII.— the first English Bible printed in England — was originally dedicated to Anne Boleyn, and when the King had violently disposed 1 Southwark Fair was at hand. Charlton Fair, some way off was I think, the veritable Bermondsey Fair, Charlton having been attached to Bermondsey Abbey. THE INNS 109 of her, to her successor Queen Jane. I may now pass on, but must remark that not one word too much has been said about this beautiful relic. Oh that it could have been preserved ! Mr. Birch, however, gave us a reproduction of it in his old London Street of the Exhibitions. A Magpie appears in a document of the last century;^ it was probably one of the many changing names of these or immediately adjoining premises. It passed to the hospital in the bridge approach changes of 1832, the Magpie and its connections, bounded east by the Flemish burial-ground and behind the then Nos. 17 to 24 of the High Street,^ for a sum of ^6600. Opposite, in recent times, was the Leopard Coffee- house. The name is introduced for the sake of the following particulars: 'Profits of Coffee-house in 1829. At the hearing of what compensation should be allowed to Mr. Clarke, the keeper of the Leopard Coffee-house in High Street, in the Borough, the premises of which are about to be pulled down, in consequence of the improvements to be made in the vicinity of London Bridge, the following statement, showing the profits on the articles consumed, was put forth on behalf of the proprietor :- s. d. s. d. A quartern loaf at . . 9 Cuts up into 13 rounds of Butter . . 6 toast, at 3d. each . 3 3 Leaving a profit of 2s. on I 3 IS. 3d 1 Gardner Collection. 2 Report of Charities, p. 634. 1840. To those who have memory of the neighbourhood, it will be a help to note that 22 was Monnery's, 24 Prestwich's, 25 Timbs's and Boar's Head Court. no THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK \ lb. of coffee, at is . 8d. s. d. Out of this quantity 2 6 cups s. d. per lb. S of coffee are obtained. f lb. of sugar, at 6d. 4i at id. . . . .22 I pint of milk I Leaving a profit of is. 3|d. on io|d. 1 8 muffins cost I 18 muffins buttered, at 2d. 3 Butter I 6 6 Leaving just 100 per cent profit ' The sum of £2: :;: 2 being laid out in the above articles on Monday, 9th November, produced ^4 : 17:6. The proprietor shewed his gross receipts during the last year were upwards of ^900 ; deducting from this sum ^250 for contingent expences, rent, etc. etc., there remains a clear profit of ^650. The case was heard at the Town Hall, before Mr. Serjeant Arabin ; ^2000 was the sum claimed by Mr. Clarke, and ^1105 the compensation awarded by the jury, 15th November 1829.' The Leopard Coffee-house was rebuilt, and still flourishes. In the map of 1542, prefixed to my account of old South wark and its people, in which many Borough Inns appear, the Boar's Head, although not actually named as others are, is figured next the Ship and Black Swan, immediately north of St. Thomas's Hospital. In East- cheap, almost at the same distance from the City end of old London Bridge as this was from the Southwark end, stood the Boar's Head of Shakespeare's play. The City Inn looked upon the burying-ground of St. Michael's Crooked Lane, as this other upon the Flemish burying- ground in Southwark. At the former was laid the scene of the revelries of Prince Hal and his fat friend Sir John Falstaff — the latter was curiously enough the property of THE INNS Sir John Fastolfe. In 1602 the Lords of the Council, in a letter to the Lord Mayor, grant permission to the servants of the Earls of Oxford and Worcester to play at the Boar's Head in Eastcheap. The Southwark inns also were doubtless so used; the Boar's Head among the rest. Curiously, not far from the Southwark Inn, during the building of a huge wharf and warehouses at the west margin of St. Saviour's Dock a few months ago, I came upon Roman and other relics, some of them as late as the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries,^ and, what con- cerns us most here, a very perfect skull of a young boar — we may presume remains of a feast at the Priory or Winchester House. Some interesting particulars about the Southwark Boar's Head have come down to us. In 1459, when it was Fastolfe's property, Henry Wyndesore, one of the Knight's household, craved it.^ Somewhat anxiously he tells his special good master, John Paston.thatitwas Sir John's own proposal that he should be host of the Boar's Head, and he asks if that will hold good. He evidently hopes for the best and fears the worst. The Boar's Head in South- wark, and Caldecott Manor in Suffolk, were with much other property among Sir John's benefaction through Waynflete to Magdalen College, Oxford. The following passage bearing on the subject is from an old cartulary of St. Thomas's Hospital, a manuscript volume of the time 1 Strange to say, there was a seal of Timothy, Patriarch of Constantin- ople, who flourished in the year 1 6 1 7 ; why or how it came into the Dock cannot be said. It is rude, rough, and incorrectly lettered, but is fairly good handiwork, not a cast nor a forgery; so says Mr. Birch of the British Museum. 2 Paston Letters, Knight's Edition, vol. i. p. 94. THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK of Henry VIII., before the dissolution of the monasteries, a most valuable book, once in the Stow Collection, then in that of Lord Ashburnham, and now in the British Museum. ' The President of Magdalen College has a true title to 4s. from the master and brethren of St. Thomas's Hospital, annual quit rent of tenements by the Bore's Head, the gift of William Waynflete, which he and others had of the gift of John Fastolfe, Knight, obtained by long service and course of justice, and which had before that belonged to one Richard Fayrhere.' The bequest does not seem to have turned out as well as might have been expected. In the Reliqum Hearniavue, edited by Dr. Bliss, is the following reference to the property, 2d June 1721. 'The reason why they cannot give so good an account of the benefaction of Sir John Fastolf to Magd. Coll. is because he gave it to. the founder and left it to his management, so that 'tis sup- pos'd 'twas swallowed up in his own estate that he settled upon the college. However, the college knows this, that the Boar's Head in South wark, which was then an inn, and still retains the name, though divided into several tenements (which brings the college ;^i5o per annum), was part of Sir John's gift.' I shall have more to say about Sir John Fastolfe, but prefer to give an extended notice of him in the account of Jack Cade's doings at the White Hart, with which he was a good deal mixed up. John Timbs, an old inhabitant of South- wark and a diligent antiquary, tells us, that Boar's Head Court was for many years leased to his father, and was by him principally sub-let to weekly tenants. The premises consisted of two rows of tenements, vis-a-vis, THE INNS 113 and two at the east end with a gallery outside the first floors. The tenements were fronted with strong weather boar's head court. board, and the balusters of the staircase were of great age. The court entrance was between the houses Nos. 25 and I 114 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. 26 on the east side of High Street and that number of houses from old London Bridge, and beneath the whole extent of the Court was a finely-vaulted cellar, doubtless the wine-cellar of the Boar's Head. A drawing by J. C. Buckler in the Guildhall Library, dated 1827, and one by T. H. Shepherd, copied for this work, agree with the above description. Let us retrace our steps a little. In the churchwardens' accounts of St. Olave's Churchyard, 1 614-15, is this entry, ' Received of John Barlowe that dwelleth at the Boar's Head in Southwark, for suffering the encroachment at the corner of the wall on ye Flemish churchyard one year II Hs.'^ A rare brass trade token probably from here has been described — O. AT . THE . BORES . HEAD = A boar's head. \ R. IN . SOVTHWARKE . 1 649 = W . M . B A specimen was presented by Mr. Halliwell to the British Archaeological Associa- tion. It has been drawn for this volume. This inn' serves as a landmark, indicating the site of a house which I believe to have been the birthplace of John Harvard, a man unknown almost in his own day, but now celebrated. Southwark was at this time all inns, so to speak, and as the innkeepers could not by law or custom provide their own meat, the butchers were as necessary as the inns. There were many Harvards in Southwark, most of them butchers, but some innholders. In Mr. Dollman's work on St. 1 Corner, Inns, pp. 19, 20. THE INNS 115 Mary Overy, plate 40, is shown a row of shops exactly opposite to Boar's Head Court, old in style, and it may be untouched by the fire of 1676. They were taken down in 1829 on clearing approaches for the new bridge. A tolerably perfect Tudor arch appears as belonging to this row of shops. After a careful study of our sacra- mental token -books, I have good reason for concluding that in one of them Robert Harvard, father to John, founder of the Harvard University in the United States, carried on the business of a butcher in 1607, at the time his afterwards famous son was born. For more on the subject see our account of the Queen's Head, p. 206. In 1720 the Boar's Head had dwindled into a court, ' but small,' says Strype ; and soon after, in Rocque {vide our map), we observe the insignificant size of Boar's Head Alley as compared with the space allotted to some of the Borough Inns. He shows the court south of Chequer Alley, north of the Ship Inn and of St. Thomas's Hospital, and opposite the north-east end of St. Saviour's Church. The final clearance took place in 1830. The site was afterwards included in the frontage of St. Thomas's Hospital, and is now covered by the railway approaches. There were in Southwark other inns of the sign of the Boar's Head ; one in Counter Street, and one with tenements belonging to Philip Henslowe, on the Bank- side, next the Cardinal's Hat. This was no doubt a rich property ; the tenants making a great show of rents— in- 1604 about ;^500 a year at present value. Some of his tenants had to pay capons ; for instance, ' Widow Renowlls, one capon at sentandroetyd ; goodman Hithen- ii6 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. son at Crystmas, two capones ; Mr. Mownt at shrafted, two; goodman Pigat, one; goodman Hunte, at Crystmas, two.'i The next inn south of the Boar's Head, in the High Street, is the Ship. A great deal of business must have been done here ; the premises were very extensive, reaching from the main street almost to the Walnut Tree, parallel with the hospital all the way, and but a little north of it. In the year 1607 James Taylor left by will to the poor of St. Saviour's the sum of £if payable out of tenements in the Ship Inn. The ship as an heraldic emblem implied the arms of Bristol, ' To the Ship the merchants go.' In 1691 it is facetiously said to be in harbour — possibly for the time unoccupied. In 1 720, says Strype, 'higlers were its chief customers.' In 1805 ground east of the Ship, south of Carter Lane otherwise Walnut Tree Alley, was bought by the Hospital. In 1830, at the time the new London Bridge approaches were constructed, the Ship, with its somewhat extensive gateway, waggon -yard, and appurtenances, and an old building used as a slaughter-house, were also conveyed to St. Thomas's Hospital for the sum of ;^5775, all the space being incorporated in the new north wing. The slaughter-house recalls to my memory the fact that one of the noted family of butchers, the Harvards, had possession of the Ship in 1636. Among the wardens' presentments at St. Saviour's, Elizabeth Lawes of the Ship is noted for using evil language to the church- wardens, and refusing to open her doors to them on the Sunday, and worse than that, ' for not living with her 1 Henslowe's Diary, pp. 265, 266. 1845. THE INNS 117 husband for seven or eight years.' The wardens, as we see, exercised a rigorous control over questions of moraUty and religious observance. A century later the inn is OLD SHIP INN. described as small, and in Kent's London Directory for 18 16 I see that a solitary carrier from Carshalton puts up at the Ship. A drawing by Buckler in 1827, copied by Shepherd for the Grace Collection, and again copied ii8 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK chap. for this work, shows what a shabby though picturesque enclosure it was then. Next, south of the Ship, was the Black Swan, apparently marked in the Record Office map of 1542. Black Swan Alley is described in 1720 as 'small but indifferent built and inhabited.' It appears in Rocque, 1740, but is destroyed before the end of the century. In the High Street, in 1723, was the Beacon, a public- house so called ; its exact position is shown by its removal for the construction of a better gateway to the Hospital. Thomas Guy and another generous governor were just now spending much money in improvements and new wards there. The sign may have had reference to the well-known telegraph tower close at hand, or to a fire beacon ; a token of 1655 implies the latter — O. lAMES . PITMAN . IN =•- A beacon. \ R. SOVTHWARKE . 1655 = I . I . P I would remark, too, that a considerable part of Tooley Street by the church was, probably so far back as the fifteenth century, known as the Bergheny, apparently from its name derived from Burgh kenning, meaning a watch-tower, which might reasonably be held to imply a beacon. In the history of St. Thomas's Hospital an interesting old house comes to light. It had belonged to the Gower family, and had been left for the support of three chaplains at St. Thomas's Hospital ; an obit, but forfeited by one of them, who was in the Wars of the Roses on the un- successful side. This house, the Falcon, appears to have been one of general entertainment, with a specialty towards closheys, i.e. skittles. The site was wanted in THE INNS 119 1507 on the rebuilding of St. Thomas's Hospital, a rough sketch of which is shown in the map of 1542. The hospital, built in 1228 by Bishop Peter of Winchester, and often repaired, had, in 1507, become much dilapi- dated, indeed ruinous, so that renewal and enlargement were necessary. Ready at hand, and suitable, was the ground upon which the Falcon stood, between the old hospital and Tooley Street, belonging to John Read, a notary, and others, of which said John Read made a deed of gift to Sir Richard Richardson, ^ master of the hospital. It is thus noticed,^ 22 Henry VII. : 'expences, purchase of void ground called the Faucon, and after- wards called the Tenys place and Clossh-bane, upon which void ground said Master hath builded the new hospital for poor men.' Skittle alleys, and inns having them attached, often appear in St. Saviour's presentments of the seventeenth century, when the wardens detected the fact that this game was being carried on during Divine service. Bowling and skittles were common amusements in Southwark, the latter down to my time. I note, 15 13, the bowhng house, next the Mansion House, Paris Garden; that of Horse Shoe Alley in 1634, where an offender is presented for keeping a ' Bowling ' on the Sabbath ; and, as we see here, a great skittle house occupied part of the site of St. Thomas's Hospital before 1507. Here let us cross the High Street for a short time. 1 Sir, as an ecclesiastic, not a knight. 2 The particulars, and most interesting they are, I gave in my sketch history of St Thomas's Hospital, compiled from an Ashburnham MS., now in the British Museum, lent me by the Earl, the former owner, for the purposes of my paper read before the Royal Society of Literature m 1882. THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK A Falcon Inn, once the Pewter-pott-on-the-Hoope, south of the Catherine Wheel, on the west side of the High Street, is noticed in 1561, and stood till the middle of last century ; the site is now Adam's Place. A little south of this, close to a less ancient Falcon Court, a deep foundation has just now been opened for a new Grapes tavern. About ten or twelve feet below the surface some interesting relics have been found, among them fragments of Samian, Upchurch, and other wares, a hypocaust tile, and a coin of Antoninus. Here was an arch of ancient brickwork, the brick a fine red and hard in texture, the mortar very hard, and apparently Roman. The arch was distinctly pointed, and four-centred, the highest point to the ground about five feet or more, the largest width say eleven to twelve feet. My friend, Mr. Way, an excellent local antiquary, whose zeal cannot be too much commended, saw in the lowest level these pieces of Roman pottery, etc., implying the site of a Roman villa at hand ; among later remains was an earthen thrift-box of about the time of Elizabeth. The arch appeared quite high enough for a subway, and probably served as part of the Wik /^?m.#t\ foundation of Suffolk House, built by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk,! forhis wife, the King's sister, about 15 18, the pair on whom was written the well-known distich — 1 We give a seventeenth -century trade token of some Duke's Head tavern as it marks the name. It reads as follows : — O. RICHARD . BLAKE . TAPSTER = Bust of Duke of Suffolk. \ R. IN . SOVTHWARK . 1 669 = HIS . HALF . PENY. R . F . B. THE INNS ' Cloth of Gold do not thou dispys, though thou be matched with Cloth of fries, Cloth of friez be not thou too bould, though thou be matched with cloth of Gold.' Probably the remains were not found on the original site of the villa, but being plentiful in the immediate neighbourhood were shovelled in while making the foundation. Back to our route again, along the east side of the High Street southwards, a very short walk will bring us to the King's Head. The Romans have left their mark here, as they have in so many parts of South wark. In 1879 Mr. Way made an important discovery. In an excavation close to the gateway were fragments of Samian and other pottery, large bowls and drinking vessels, having on them designs of animals, foliage, and fruit, also iridescent oyster -shells, portions of sandals, coins of Claudius, a metal cup, and a kind of sword, some twenty -six inches long. These most interesting relics were at a depth of ten or eleven feet below the surface. In the fifteenth century Sir John Howard seems to have visited most of the inns. 30th November 1466, he paid 'for wyne at the Kynges Hed in Sothewerke, iii"^,' but it could scarcely have been here, for the following reason : this was one of the many inns changing its name at the time of Papal repressions ; the Pope's Head de- posed, and the King's Head set up ; as the Cross Keys became the Queen's Head, the Salutation, i.e. of an Angel and our Lady, became the Soldier and Citizen, and so on, much in the French manner of later days. THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK when so often after a Revolution the names of streets have been passionately changed, as a child in its anger might break a toy. In 1534 the Abbot of Waverley, who we may presume still has his inn hard by, writes, apparently on business, that he will be 'at the Popes Head in Southwark.' This was the very year of the separation of the Church of England from Papal head- ship. Eight years afterwards our inn is marked in the Record Office map as the ' Kynges Hed.' In some deeds very kindly lent by Mr. G. Eliot Hodgkin, F.S.A., whose family for some generations possessed the pro- perty, many interesting points appear. The first, which is in the curious law Latin of the time, is dated 1559. This deed shows John Gresham and John White ^ bargaining for a certain sum of money with Thomas Cure for the inn, ' formerly known as the Popes hed, now as le kynges hed, abutting on the highway called Longe Southwarke.' 1588. — The property passes to the Humbles,^ and in 1647 to Humble, Lord Ward. I may ^ John Gresham, Mayor i 547, uncle to the famous Sir Thomas Gresham of the Royal Exchange. John White, Mayor i 563. 2 A notable monument to one of this family, an aldennan, with wives and children depicted in the old way, kneeling parents, and kneeling children in a row, is at St. Saviour's Church in good preservation. ' Th* figures are interesting specimens of costume of the reign of King James.' It is on this monument that the well-known lines occur, beginning — ' Like to the damask rose you see, ' and ending — ' The sun sets, the shadow flies, The gourd consumes, and man he dies.' Mr. Humble, notwithstanding his name, was very troublesome and abusive ; it is entered in the vestry minutes that he, on one occasion, called the churchwardens ' knaves and rascalles,' and on another was fined, if not expelled, for a time. THE INNS 123 note that one of the tenants at this time was a ' William le pewterer,' showing, as in the case of most old inns of any size, that divers trades were there carried on. The hostelry is under the upper rooms, and provision is made that the many tenants shall have access to the pump and other conveniences at all reasonable times. Boyne shows a token — O. AT . THE . KINGS . HEAD . IN = Bust of Henry VIII. \ R. SOVTHWARKE . GROCER = W . P The King's Head was one of the inns burnt down in the great fire of 1676. In this, as in other instances resulting from the calamity, the superior landlord seems to have shown a strong disposition to take advantage of his tenant ; but the widow who held the inn at the time appealed to the Court of Judicature,^ and happily had redress. The rent had been £6t per annum ; it was now settled that the tenant, Mary Duffield, should build a good substantial inn and buildings, and in consideration of her doing this the rent should be ^38 instead of ^66, and the tenure extended to forty -eight years. We learn from Taylor, that in 1637 the carriers who use the King's Head are 'from Chillington, Westrum, Penborough, Slenge, Wrotham, and other parts.' Elsewhere he says, 'The Tavernes are of mine own finding, and the vintoners my own friends ; ' it is ' Welcome gentlemen ; a crust, and what wine will you drink ? ' And that you may not be at a loss in the Borough, he commends you to, among 1 Fire Decrees, 1677. Guildhall. 124 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK Others, the Harrow ; the Horse, near the Bridge ; the King's Head ; the Salutation, in Bermondsey Street ; and to the Mermayd, the Sun, and the Rose. Taylor gives some of his usual quaint advice, referring to the King's Head in Horselydown, but applicable to all the King's Heads ; he says — ' The sight whereof should men to Temperance win ; To come as sober out, as they went in.' . 1 720. — Our inn is reported as ' well built, handsome, and GROUND-PLAN OF THE KING'S HEAD. enjoying a good trade ; ' ^ so Mary Duffield forty years before had done her work well. The woodwork of the galleries on both sides of the yard was very picturesque. Mr. John Timbs {Curiosities of London, 1875) tells us that within his recollection the sign was a well-painted half length Of Henry VIH. Several pictures of the King's Head are known; among others, T. H. Shep- herd's for the Grace Collection, probably from Buckler, 1827, and photographs by the Society for photograph- ing Old London, no longer in existence, alas ! kept up for some time, it should be said, mainly by the public 1 Strype, 1740. THE INNS 125 spirit of Mr. Marks. Time will have its way ; the last remains of the east side were pulled down at the beginning of 1885 — the only relic secured by Mr. Norman on the occasion was a Queen Elizabeth six- pence. I have also a silver coin of 1601, found at St. THE KING S HEAD. Thomas a Watering, for which, and for other old valu- ables from below ground in Southwark, I am indebted to Mr. Way. At the last the building was occupied by a widow and her family, who owned among them two hansom cabs, and so far as they were able did also a little carrying business ; so from Jockey of Nor- 126 THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK folk, "nobles, players, and gentlemen of the olden time, we come to the honest hard-working cabman in 1885. THE LAST OF THE KING S HEAD. Mr. Norman's affection for these old remains has led to the production for this work of two illustrations which show very completely what the building erected by Mary Duffield after the fire was like. The story may be closed THE INNS 127 with this announcement, that in August 1876, the free- hold property known as the King's Head Inn, with an area of about 35,000 feet, had been sold, it is said for a large sum, and that a modern tavern at the entrance to the yard preserves the name. Other King's Heads have appeared or disappeared in Southwark, one on the west side of Gravel Lane, noted for nothing in particular, one by White Horse Court, nearer London Bridge, which is referred to under that head. There was also a King's Head between St. George's Church and the old Marshalsea, which about the beginning of last century, as the Vade Mecum for Maltworms states, was ' kept by one-eyed Robert and his very good-natured hopping wife,' a picture that might be drawn for an edition of some ' Droll ' acted at Southwark Fair, within the limits of which Fair this King's Head was. An interesting seventeenth -century trade token, with a capital likeness of Charles II., has just been found and is now in the British Museum ; it is heart-shaped, and reads thus — O. lOHN . THORPE . BLACKMAN = The King's head in profile to left and three hats. \ R. STREET . IN . SOVTHWARK . HIS . HALF . PENY = J . M . T. Thorpe probably carried on business within the precincts of the King's Head, his sign being 'the three hats.' There is also an unpublished trade token of a King's Head, Glean Alley, in the Collection of Mr. Unwin Clarke, and another from Tooley Street. CHAPTER V THE WHITE HART, GEORGE, AND SOUTHWARK FIRE OF 1 676 We are in the High Street of South wark, and, as appears from Rocque's map, in the midst of a cluster of remarkable inns, each with almost a history of its own. In one of our views of the White Hart, date 1884, look- ing west from the inner yard, we see to the right or north a gabled building — it is the back part of the remains of the King's Head, now toward demolition ; the historic old inn is in ruins ; the two were next-door neighbours. Although so close to the Pope's Head, the White Hart never appeared under an ecclesiastical sign, it was always the White Hart, the badge of Richard 11.,^ borrowed from his mother, Joanna of Kent. Richard was the friend of Gower, who lived and died at the Priory of St. Mary Overy, close at hand ; owing to the King's desire it was that Gower composed his wonderful, if crabbed, Confessio 1 The great northern entrance of Westminster Abbey, known as Solomon's Porch, was rebuilt in his time, and once contained his well-known badge of the White Hart, 'which still remains, of colossal proportion painted on the fragile partition which shuts off the Muniment Room from the southern triforium of the nave.' — Memorials of Westminster Abbey, by Dean Stanley. THE WHITE HART 129 Amantis, wonderful for the time, which is recorded on his tomb at St. Saviour's.^ The White Hart was a rare old inn of the highest type. It is embalmed in English history and in the pages of Shakespeare. What varied scenes the place recalls to one's mind — scenes of horror, of feasting and revelry, of picturesque everyday life. First and foremost, it will always be remembered as Jack Cade's head-quarters, when in 1450 for a brief space he dominated London. Here people of mark were slain, or, slain elsewhere, their remains were brought here to the rebel captain. In peaceful times there have doubtless been dramatic per- formances in that yard. For centuries, the highest in the land could have found accommodation within those ample precincts. Later, it appears as a prosperous place of business resort ; and lastly, we have Dickens's inimitable portrait of it in a state of decadence, to rescue its old age from oblivion. The White Hart was destroyed in the great fire of 1676, but something below ground may have been left. When in 1857 Fairholt made his drawing for Corner's Inns, the landlady told him that the old foundations were still in existence, and that there was an archway leading to a passage underground. The inn itself, Fairholt thought, could not be more than 150 years old, but as the foundations in older time were usually very solid, it is probable that below the surface the structure had been the same from the beginning, more certainly so as the custom had been in the time of Elizabeth and James to 1 Restored by the liberal care of his namesakes the Gowers, and still preserved at the church. K 13° THE INNS OF OLD SOUTHWARK build wherever practicable ' upon old foundations.' The rebuilding seems to have been on the model of the former edifice, as must have been the case with other famous inns burnt down at the same time. Rocque in his map of 1 749, and our, modern plan given here, show what an extensive space was covered. The White Hart might in its palmy days have accommodated a hundred or two of guests and retainers, and have had ample room OWELLINJe -:- L>. 5 Jan. 3 pottles I ,, 2 Feb. 5 » Summ ;^ii ; is. Possibly, I will say not improbably, Shakespeare saw this very small mean scrap of paper ; and the thought is forced upon me when I note gallons and quarts and ' a penny for bread ' so 404 APPENDIX oddly repeated, that with this ringing in his ears, he wrote, ' O monstrous ! but one half-pennyworth of bread to this intolerable deal of sack.' ' Item, sack, 2 gallons, 5s. 8d. Item, bread, a half-penny.' The play of Henry IV. seems to have been written in 1S97- There were in former days scandalous statements that people ' indulged ' upon sacramental wine, and this true bill seems to imply almost as much : 14 gallons 3 quarts, and id for bread ! I shall here take the liberty of giving a few interesting extracts from the registers of St. Saviour's, not connected with inns except by way of general illustration. B meaning burial, and C christening. They are mostly of the seventeenth century. Horatio Vera, son of the Earl of Oxford . . B. Francis Vera Do. ' . . . C. A Gentilwoman, xxxs. . . . . B. Son of Nicholas Morton, our lecturer . . . C. John Fletcher, a gentleman ....... B. Robert Harvard and family, six deaths in six weeks . B. Roger Cole, the Bishop's registrar . . . . . B. Philip Henslowe . . . . . . . B. Venus, d. of the Bear Master, Thomas Godfrey . C. The old man in durty lane .... . . B. Robert Bromfield . B. Ann Delver, a quaker ........ B. William Austen (of the gorgeous monument still at St. Saviour's) B. Ralph Flint, killed at the Bear Garden . . . . B. A man killed by the Bear Garden bull ... . B. An aquavite stiller ....... B. 1582. One Dove a Kennell Raker ..... B. 161 1. Symon, an officer in the powder house . . . . B. 1 6 13. Thomas, the King's trumpeter ..... B. A Mr. Busbadge pays for his daughter's wedding . . M. Thomas Richardson, schoolmaster and astrologer . . . B, APPENDIX 405 Lancelot, Lord Bishop in the chancell . Nicholas Andrewes, the Bishop's brother The lady Joyce Clarke, in the church . Philip Massenger in the church Jane Woodyard, drowned, being distracted Mary Banches, which hanged herself, felo de se B. B. B. B. B. B. THE WILL OF JOHN MABB, 1578 This will, for the ready finding of which I am indebted to my friend Mr.Challener Smith, of the Probate Registry, Somerset House, is as follows. I commend its careful perusal as the utterance of a fine specimen of a noble, honest, and intelligent Englishman of the time of Elizabeth, whom, goldsmith and innkeeper as he was, I hesitate not to characterise with the same words as Chaucer used for his Poore Parson : — ' Ne niakede him a spiced conscience. But Christes lore, and his apostles twelve. He taughte, but first he folwede it himselve.' I would note here for the better understanding of the will, as to the value of money then, the following by Mr. Halliwell Phillipps : — ' In balancing the Shakespearean and present currencies, the former may be roughly estimated from a twelfth to a twentieth of the latter in money, and from a twentieth to a thirtieth in landed or house property. Even these scales may be deceptively in favour of the older values, there having been in Shakespeare's days a relative and often a factitious importance attached to the precious metals, arising from their compara- tive scarcity and the limited appliances for dispensing with their use.'^ THE WILL In'the name of god Amen. The seaventhe Dale of November in the yeare of oure Lorde god one Thousande fyve hundred threescore ^ Outlines, fifth edition, p. 21. 4o6 . APPENDIX and eighteene, and in the Twentie yeare of thee raigne of oure soveraigne Ladye Elizabethe by the grace of god Queen of Englande, ffraunce and Ireland, Defender of the faithe ... I John Mabb thelder, Citizen and Goldsmythe of London, beinge of sownde and perfecte memorie, and also of good healthe in bodye withoute debilitie or trowble of syckenes (praised and magnifyed be the name of God therefore), Doe make, ordayne and declare this my presente Testament in manner and fourme followinge, that is to saie, fiSrste and principallye I bequeathe my sowle into the handes of allmightie god, in hope and suer confidence of eternall lief in his everlastinge kingedome amoungest his holye Saintes and Angells. And that throughe thonlye merittes and desertes of myne alone Savioure Jhesus Christ, whereof I have certein assurents throughe the certificatt of his onelye spirite my comforter whiche testifieth and witnesseth the same to my sowle and conscience. By meance of whiche faithe, I have laied suer houlde of the mercye and favoure of God, three personnes distincte and one onelye Deitie. And I knowe that I shall enjoye the hope thereof, in whiche hope I commende my bodye to the earthe, knowinge that oure mercifull God will raise it agayne at the generall resurrectioun when I shall enjoye his presence bothe in bodye and soule. My ffunerall I leave to the discretioun of the overseers of this my Testament. And as for suche goods and cattells, debts, plate, monneye and Juells as are to me apperteyninge, or as God hathe lente mee in this miserable worlde, I give, will and dispose the same in manner and fourme followinge, that is to saye, ffirst I will that myne executrixe whiche hereafter I doe name in theise presents to execute and fulfill this my p'sent Testament, shall well and truelye consente and paye All suche debts, duetyes as of righte and conscyence I shall happenn to owe to annye personne or personnes, as their severlye shal be due, to bee paide withowte anye further delaye or contradictioun. And after my debtes paide and funerall discharged, I will that all and singuler my goods, cattells, debtes, plate, monneye and Juells, shalbe equallie apportioned into three equall partes, accordinge to thauncient custome of this Citye of Londoun, one of whiche partes I doe gyve and bequeathe to Isabell my wel beloved wief, in the name of her parte and reasonable portioun of all my saide goods . . . and of all other the premisses by reason of the saide Custome to her to be due or belonginge. And one other parte of the saide Three partes I doe gyve and bequeathe to and amoungest my fyve sonnes and three APPENDIX 407 Daughters, that is to saye John, Rychard, Stephen, Robert, Edward, Marye, Suzan and Katherine, and to suche other mee children as I shall have hereafter, if it please god to send mee anye, to and amoungest theme equallye parte and parte like to be divided, ac- cordinge to the custome aforesaide, And everie of theire partes, whiche at the tyme of my deceasse shalbe under theire full age of one and twentye yeares, to be delyvered unto theme severallye as theye shall accomplishe theire severall age of one and twentye yeares, or daies of marriage so many as be daughters. And the Resydue which at the tyme of suche my deceasse shalbe of the saide full age, or shalbe then married, to have theire severall partes to theme severallie delyvered, within the space of one halfe yeare next after my deceasse. And if it fortune annye of my saide childrenn to deceasse before thee accom- plisheing the saide age of one and Twentye yeares or daye of marriage. Then I will that the saide parte of everie suche of my childrenn shall remayne and be equallye parte and parte lyke, to and amounge suche lawfull issue of ther bodyes begottenn as theye shall happen to leave in lyffe behinde theme, and if theie leave no such issue and or that leavinge suche issue all the same doe fortune to deceasse within the saide age and before marriage. Then I will that the saide parte of everie suche of my saide childrenn so deceassinge as aforesaid shall remayne to and amoungest the survivors or survivor of my saide child- renn toward theme equallye parte and parte hke to be divided. And if annye of my saide childrenn and the saide issue of theire bodyes doe fortune to deceasse under the saide age and before marriage as above- said, then I will that theire saide partes and portions, so deceassinge shalbe disposed in three equall partes, in fourme followinge. That is to saye one parte to the mendinge of highe wayes where moste neede shalbe, one other parte thereof to thee marriages of poore maydens. And the third parte thereof shalbe disposed to the relieff of the widowe, ffatherlesse, and impotent at the discretioun of my sayde Overseere ; and the thirde parte of all and singuler my sayde gooddes . . . and other the premisses I doe assigne, appointe, gyve, will and leave to my sayde executrixe therewithe well and faithfullye to perfourme this my p'sente Testamente and last will. And firste I give and bequeathe to Katherine my daughter one hundred marckes of lawfull Englishe monney, and if the saide Katherine my daughter doe deceasse under the saide age and before marriage, Then I doe assigne, appointe, geve and bequeathe all the hundred marcks aforesaide to and amoungest all 4o8 APPENDIX the residue of my saide Childrenn survivinge (excepte allwaies John Mabb my eldest sonn, Rycharde Mabb my seconde sonne, and Marye my eldest daughter and Suzan my seconde daughter, whiche are now married allreadye and have hadd more preferment of my goods then anye other my childrenn), And as for Stephen my third sonne, although he be not as yet marled yet I have gyvenn him in monneye ffyftye poundes. And therefore he to be as the other ffower before writtenn. Item I doe gyve and bequeathe to Robert and Edward my two youngeste sonnes one hundred marckes in monneye, to and amoung theme equallye parte and parte lyke to be delyvered, and if anye of them do deceasse under thage aforesaid, I will that his parte of the saide hundred marcks shall remayne to the survivoure of the same my saide two sonnes. Item I geve and bequeathe toward the relieff of the poore childrenn remayning in Christ's hospitall in London fyve poundes, which fyve poundes I will to be paide to the severall governor of the same hospitall, chargeinge theme to see the same charitablie and faithfullye bestowed, accordinge to my trust reposed .in theme, where as moste neede shalbe. Item I do appointe, assigne and gyve Tenne poundes in monneye to be distributed amoungest poore gouldsmythes of London and poore widdowes of gouldsmythes suche as be of honest behavioure and moste poore, to be distributed at the discretioun of the wardens of the same company. Item I doe gyve and bequeathe unto my brother Nicholas Mabb fyve poundes thirteene shillinges fower pence in monneye, and I doe by theise presents clearlye release unto him whatsoever hee oweth mee besyde. Item I gyve and bequeathe to my brother in Lawe Humphrey Collie ffyve poundes. Item I doe gyve and bequeathe unto my brother Rycharde Mabb his childrenn tenne poundes in monneye, forme followinge, that is to sale to his Sonne Nicholas Mabb dwellinge with mee ffyve poundes and the reste to his other childrenn. And more, I gyve to my sister Margarett Mabb her childrenn ffyve poundes, and unto my sister Ann Mabb her childrenn fyve poundes thirteene shillinges fower pence over and besydes all suche monneye as her husband oweth mee, whiche I clerely remitte and forgyve him. And I gyve unto my syster Dorothie Mabb her childrenn fyve poundes, and unto my syster Joane Mabb and to her childrenn fyve poundes, and I will that my saide severall legacies above gyven to the saide childrenn of my saide brother Rychard, and of my saide systers, shalbe to theire severall childrenn, severally divided parte and parte lyke, savinge Nicholas Mabb before expressed, and APPENDIX 409 that yf annye of theire severall childrenn doe deceasse before the receyvinge of theire partes of my sayde legacyes that then the parte of the so deceassinge shall remayne to the survivours or survivor of the same childrenn amoungest whome such severall legacye is by me bequeathed as abovesaid. Item I doe assigne, appointe, and gyve twentie poundes in monneye to be distributed in the Universitye of Cambridge amoungest poore scholers applyinge thare studye towardes Divinitye, and havinge moste neede of helpe. Item I doe assigne, appointe, and gyve other twentie poundes in lyke manner to be gyven and distributed amoungest poore schollers applyinge towardes the studye of Divinitye of Oxford. Item I will and bequeathe fyve poundes to amoungest the poore inhabitants within the p'ish of Chaytoun in Sussex where I was borne, and I doe gyve other fyve poundes towards the mendinge of the highe waies in the same parrishe, betweene the downes and St. Johnes, or thereaboute, as moste neede shall require. Item I doe gyve and bequeathe to the poore prisonners ^ abydinge in the prisons of Ludgate, Newgate, and the two Compters in London, and in the Queenes Benche and the Marshalseye in Sowthwarke, thirtie poundes, that is to saye, to the prisoners of everie of the same prisons fyve poundes ; to be distributed where moste neede shalbe at the discretioun of my saide Overseere. Item I doe assigne, appointe, and gyve six poundes thirtene shillinges fower pence to be disposed amoungest twentie poore widowes, and other six poundes thirteene shillinges fower pence to be disposed to Twentie poore maydens mariage. That is to sale to everie of the same widowes and maydens six shillinges eighte pence a peece wheare my saide Overseers shall think moste charitable and needefull. Item I doe gyve and bequeathe to Twelve poore menn Twelve gownes, to be worthe fyfteene shillinges everie gowne. And I will that my water-bearer, Edwardes the Cobler, John Newtoun, and Anys husband (whiche Anys was sometime my servaunte), shall have fower of these gownes. Item I doe gyve unto Twelve poore women Twelve gownes, to be worthe Thirteene shillinges fower pence everie gowne, whereof Anys sometime my servaunt before named to be one, and water-bearer 1 In those days and later the condition of prisoners was very horrible, httle or no provision being made for them, except the basket sent round for broken food and the gifts of the charitable ; so that death often came to them in the shape of famine fever, or, indeed, of sheer starvation. 4IO APPENDIX his wieff for one other, and widdowe Laughlin also. I doe assigne, appointe, and gyve ffyvtye pounds in monneye to be distributed at the discretioun of my saide overseere amounge the poore, sycke, sore, lame and comfortles people inhabitinge within Cittie of Londonn. That is to sale to everie ward one equal portioun accordinge to the bignes or smalnes thereof and thee necessitie of the poore inhabitinge. Provided alwaies and my will is that no notorious Swearer, Adulterer, or Drunkard, shall have annye parte of this my legacie in annye wise. Item I will that myne executrix and overseere shall provide that Twelve Sermons be preached by godlye and learned preachers within the parrishe Churche whereof I shall happenn to bee a Parishioner at the time of my deceasse. And that the preacher of everie suche Sermonn shall have sixe shillinges eighte pence of my guifte. And thereunto I doe gyve and bequeathe fower poundes. And my will is that three or fower of theise Sermons (yf yt maye convenientlye be obteyned) shal be preached by the righte Reverend ffather in god the Bishop of London, and Mr. Sandes, Mr. Nowell Dean of Ponies, Doctor Mathewe, Doctor Squier, and Doctor Lawes, or such other the lyke as it shall please god to appoynte. Item I doe gyve and bequeathe to everie of my Servauntes, both menn and womenn, dwellynge with mee at the tyme of my deceasse, Thirtie shilHnges a peece to buy theme a garmente of blacke withall. Item I gyve to my sayde overseers for theire paines to be taken in assistinge of my executrix of this my present Testament, to everye of theme a Ringe of goulde with a Deathes head and my name in it, and the same to be worthe ffourtye shiUinges a peice. And I gyve to everye of theme and to everie of theire wyves one blacke gowne a piece or ffyve pounds in monneye to everye mann and his wife to buye it withall. Other blackes I will none to be gyven and namelye to the eiche \sic\} The Resydue of all and singuler my goods, etc. etc., and readye monneye not before by mee in theise presents 'gyven, willed or bequeathed, I gyve and bequeathe unto Isabell my welbeloved wieff, whom I make, ordeyne and constitute the sole and onlye executrixe of this my present Testament and last will. And I make and ordeyne overseere thereof my sonne John Mabb, my sonne in lawe John Dolman, my sonne Rychard Mabb, and my sonne in lawe William Ponyare, Desyringe theme to assiste my saide executrix with theire ' Probably this means only to each named and no other. APPENDIX 411 best advise and counsell, to the better performance of this my present Testament, wiUinge and chargeinge bothe my sayd executrixe and overseers that all my goods and cattails whatsoever that I shall have at the tyme of my deceasse, be not valued or soulde withe favoure or partialitie, but that theye be justlye and truelye prized as theye shalbe worthe, that my childrenn susteyne no wronge or injury e in theire partes and portions to theme belonginge. And also my will is and I make my humble and hartie requeste to the righte honorable Lords maior of the Cytye of London whiche then shalbe, and to his wourshipfull bretheren thaldermenn, that everye suche personn or personnes as shall have annye parte or partes of anye of my sayd Childrenns portions in the tyme of theire nonage, shall as well be bounde withe theire good and sufficient suretyes to gyve some reason- able yearlie portions towards the bringinge upp of suche child or childrenne, whose portionn or portions they shall have, (that suche my childe or childrenn may be broughte upp in vertue and learninge, and so be made more meete to serve God and this co'men wealthe). So also truelye to paye and satisfye everye suche portionn and portions to such as it belonge, accordinge to my will herein above declared and thauncient custome of this honourable citye in that behalfe used. And I do clerely renounce, revoke and make void by theise presents all other former Testaments, wills and legacies whatsoever heretofore by me made or declared. And I denounce, declare, ratefye and establishe this to be myne onelye last will and testament. And in witnes thereof I have hereunto subscribed my name with myne owne hand, and thereunto have allso set my seale the daye and yeare above written in the presence of theise witnesses, whome I have desyred also to subscribe theire names. By me John Mabb. Witness Andrewe Palmer. (Proved before the venerable man Master William Drury, 15 th January, 1582, by Isabell, Relicte and Executrix.) AN INSTANCE OF RELIEF GRANTED TO A DEBTOR IN THE MINT UNDER THE ACT OF 1723. Surry ff. To all the Creditors of Thomas Brown Late y^ parish of S* Giles without Cripplegate Londn Cloathworker now residing in a certain Place called Suffolk 412 APPENDIX Place or the Mint, or Limits thereof in the said County, These are to give notice that the said Thomas Brown hath Petitioned me, one of His Majesty's Justices of the Peace for the County of Surry to have the Benefit of a late Act of Parliament (entitled An Act for more effectual execution of Justice in a pretended Pri- viledged Place, in the Parish of St George in the County of Surry, commonly called the Mint ; and for bringing to speedy and exem- plary Justice such Offenders as are therein mentioned ; and for giving Relief to such Persons as are proper Objects of Charity and Compas- sion there. And that by Warrant under my Hand and Seal I have ordered and appointed the said Tho^ Brown to appear before the Justices at the General Quarter Sessions of the Peace to be held for the Coun- ty of Surry, next after the expiration of Thirty Days after the Date hereof, in order to his being discharged, pursuant to The Tenour and Direction of the said Act. Given under my Hand and Seal the 2d Day of Deer- 1723. Ja^ Isaacson. N.B. The words in italic are written, the rest printed. WINE AND THE VINTNERS IN SOUTHWARK I have before me a list of Southwark taverns in the seventeenth century (Harleian MSS. 4716, no date): they are as follows. From Newington Church to London Bridge, the Hawke, Unicorn, Bush, Three Tuns, King's Arms, Ship, Bull Head, Crowne, Tvsfo Cocks, King Henry VIII.; in Tooley Street, the Ram's Head, Ship, Three Tuns ; in Barnaby (Bermondsey) Street, the Christopher, King's Arms, Bunch of Grapes ; in Mill Street, the Ox and Bell ; in Redriff (Rotherhither), the Shepherd and Dog, and others ; these, I suppose, are most of them not merely for the sale of wine. Playhouses have their vintners : for instance, Roger Bridge at the Hope, 1630; George White at the Globe, 1636. But we scarcely need selections ; there were plenty of wineshops APPENDIX 4' 3 about Southwark, not a few in the hands of Dutchmen. I have note of the Swan, a Rhenish winehouse in Gravel Lane, built by Stephen Van Wesendunck and belonging in 1647 to Abram Vanesse and his wife Jacomine. We have re- ferred in the text to a poetaster calling himself ' Satirical Dick,' who, ' not finding good wine in the whole city thorough, thought perhaps he might find it at last in the Borough.' He meets with no success, but tells us his experiences in The last Search after Claret in Southwark, published by Hawkins, Cocker's successor. From him we learn how at the King's Bench, close by St. George's Church, ' Good Mr. Price stands at the door with his keys, to let visitants out, and keep in the fleas.' One landlord is made to say, 'My bowling-green brings me more coyne, and turns to a much better profit than wine.' Dick advertises ironically that, 'if any vintner, wine cooper, etc., has some tuns or hogsheads of old, rich, unadulterated claret, and will sell it (as the law directs) at sixpence a quart, he shall have more custom than half his profession, and his house be as full, from morning till night, as a conventicle.' EXTRACT FROM 'A NEW REVIEW OF LONDON.' 3D Edition. 1728. (Title-page) — ' An exact and correct list of all the Stage Coaches, Waggons, and Carriers, where they inn at in London, and days they go out of town.' (Heading of List) — ' As it is above twenty years since a list was taken of the Stage Coaches, Waggons, and Carriers' Inns to which they come, in and about London, and the days they go out of town, so that several of their stations are now changed, we here present our readers with a new one collected to the year 1728.' The following belong to Southwark :— 414 APPENDIX Inns. Coach. Carrier. Waggon. To On Falcon I Godstone Fridays George I Charley . Thursdays Do. I Endfield, Sussex Do. Do. I Goudhurst Fridays Do. I Hurst Thursdays Do. I Lewes Fridays Do. I Shoreham Thursdays Do. I Southborough . Do. and Fridays Greyhound I East Greenstead Tuesdays Do. I Flingwood Fridays Do. I Mayfield . Thursdays Do. I Rye Mons. and Fridays Do. I Wegram . Tues. and Fridays Do. I Endfield, Sussex Thursdays Half Moon I Blechenley Wednesdays Do. I Croydon , Tues. and Thursdays Do. East Greenstead Wednesdays Do. I Godstone Fridays Do. I Linfield . Wednesdays Do. I Ockstead . Fridays Katherine Wheel I Ryegate . Weds, and Fridays King's Arms I Feversham Thursdays King's Head I Dover Thurs. and Fridays Do. I Epsom . Do. and Tuesdays Do. I Godalmin Thursdays Do. ' Horsham Mons. and Fridays Do. I Maidstone Thursdays Do. I Petersfield Mons. and Thursdays Do. I Stening . Thursdays Do. I Tunbridge Tues. and Fridays Do. I I Leatherhead Tues. and Thursdays Do. I I Petworth . Thursdays Queen's Head . Arundel . Mons. and Wednesdays APPENDIX 41S Inns. Coach. Carrier. Waggon. To On Queen's Head . I Guildford Tuesdays Do. I Pulborough Fridays Do. I Tunbridge Tues. and Fri. (in summer) Do. I Waldron . Tues. and Thursdays Ship Inn I Bromley . Wednesdays Do. I Seal Weds, and Fridays Spur Inn . I Battle Thursdays Do. I Brasted Tues. and Fridays Do. I Dartford . Every day Do. I Epsom Tues. and Fridays Do. I Farningham Mon. Wed. and Fri. Do. I Hastings . Thursdays Do. I Maiden . Wednesdays Do. I Penhurst . Do. Do. I Sevenoak Do. I Sunderidge Tues. and Fridays Do. I Tenterden Thursdays Talbot I Blackstone Wednesdays Do. I Brighthelmstone Thursdays Do. I Cooksfield Do. Do. I Cranbrook Do. Do. I Flathing . Do. Do. I Guildford Tues. and Thursdays Do. I Itham Saturdays Do. I Lewis Thursdays Do. I Mailing . Weds, and Fridays Do. I Tunbridge Do. and do. White Hart I Chichester Mon.Thurs. Fridays Do. I Dover Thursdays Do. I Guildford Tuesdays Do. I Haytham Thursdays Do. I Horsham Thursdays Do. I Midhurst Wednesdays Do. I Petworth Thursdays 4i6 APPENDIX Inns. Coach. Carrier. Waggon. To On White Hart Do. Do. White Horse Total I I I I Portsmouth Robetsbridge . Rye Eaton Bridge . Mons. and Thursdays Thursdays Do. Do. 13 5° 8 THE CROWNED KEYS AS AN ARMOURY. From an interesting paper by the Hon. H. A. Dillon, just published in the Archceologia, vol. H. part i., we learn that King Henry VHI. laid up large stores of arms and armour ; also that German armourers worked for him and wore his livery at Greenwich and in Southwark. Thus : i 5 1 7, Sir Henry Guildford receives money for erecting two forges and for repairs at the armoury in Southwark ; 1 5 1 9, the wages of the Almain armourers at Southwark for twenty-eight days were £16 : 13 ; 7, and besides 1 1 7s. 6d. paid to Sir Edward Guildford for stuff bought for the armourers at Greenwich and Southwark in April, Sir Edward received in May £27 : 4s., the yearly charge for the livery, and kersey for the hose of the Almain armourers. Mr. Dillon tells us that in an inventory of 1547, arms are recorded as in store at Westminster, the Tower, and Greenwich, Windsor, Hampton Court, Bridewell, and Deptford, yet the armoury house and the Crowned Key at Southwark are neither of them mentioned. He thinks that perhaps the stores, which were for some time at those places, were, on the completion of the armoury house, Tilt Yard, etc., at Greenwich, removed thither. THREE CROWN SQUARE, on the west side of the High Street, marks the site of an inn. By indenture, dated the i8th September 161 7, Peter Humble APPENDIX 417 granted to the wardens of the parish church of St. Saviour, to the use of the poor of the said parish, one annuity or yearly rent of ;^3 : 4s., to be issuing out of a certain tenement, with the appurtenances, adjoining to the south side of the great gate of the inn, called the Three Crowns : and also the further annuity of 4s. to be issuing out of the said tenement for keeping his tomb clean. See Charity Commissioners' Report. THE LOCK BRIDGE. 2 E INDEX Abershaw, Jerry, 218 Acton, Justice Robert, 234 Acton, William, gaoler, 55 Adam's Place, 344 Addison, Edward, Queen's water- man. 335, 342 Addison's Rents, 335 ' Aime for Archers of St. George's Fields,' 365 Aldred, Robert, printer, 162 Ale, South wark, 24 ; lines on, 25, 26, 28 ; regulations concerning, 27, 28, 29 Allen, John, owner of Bear Garden, 333 Allen, William, killed at the Horse Shoe, 348, 349 AUeyn, Edward ; his almshouses, 52 ; frequenter of taverns, 300 ; churchwarden, 310 ; memoirs, 322 ; theatrical . manager, 335 ; assessor of a subsidy, 340 ; his property, 342 Alsey, John, 65 Alsop, Timothy, King's brewer, 64 Anchor Brewery; the site, 52, 53, 56, 57; Meeting-houses, 5 7-60; Globe Playhouse, 60 ; enlarge- ments of Brewery, 62 ; early history, 64, 65 ; Edmund Halsey and Ralph Thrale, 65, 66 ; Henry Thrale and his wife, 67-73 ; purchasers of Brewery, 73, 74 ; the house, 74 ; Johnson's room and the garden, 7 5 ; Louis Simond, ib.; Marshal Haynau, 76, Ti ; draymen, 77 ; fire, 78, 79 ; description of the Brewery, 78-82 Anchor Public-house, 82 Angel or Aungel, Battle Bridge, 41, 275 Angel, Crosby Row, 274, 277 Angel next the King's Bench, 256, 272-274 Angel Court, formerly Boar's Head Ride, 319 Angel on the Hoop, St. Saviour's, 275 Artichoke, 260 Arundel, Earl of, 99, 157, 358 Ashley, Lord, 265 Atherton's sermon, 8 Aubrey, John, 6, 184 Audley, Lord, 181 ; family, ib. Augustine, St., inn of Abbots of, 7 Austen's or Awsten's Rents, 328 Austin's, James, huge pudding, 286, 287, 368 Austin, William, 328, 339 Axe and Bottle Yard ; fire there, 219; formerly Axe Yard, 226 ; owned by John Marshall, ib. ; Mrs. Newcomen's property there, 227 ; becomes King Street, ib. ; renamed Newcomen Street, 228 Ayliffe, Sir John, first alderman of Southwark, 4 Bacon, Anthony, 336 Bailley, Henry, host of the Tabard, 174, 176 Ballain, Jonadab, 227 Hio INDEX Bandy Leg Walk, now Guildford Street, 360, 361 Bank End, 48, 82, 327, 328 Bankside. See Chapters XI. and XII. Bannister's Garden, 188 Baptist's Head, 357 Barclay and Perkins {see also Anchor Brewery), 52 ; their pre- decessors, 64-73 j the first firm, 74 Barclay, David, purchaser of the Brewery, 74 Barclay, Robert, the Apologist, 74 Barclay, Robert, nephew of David, 74, 216 Barefoot Alley, 261 Baretti, 70 Barge, 333 Bates, Thomas, 202, 203 Battell House, 39 Batten, Sir W., 306 Battle Bridge, 33, 38, 39, 41, 275 Battle, inn of the Abbot of, 7, 38, 39 Baxter's Coffee-house ; old building, loi ; Epicure's Ahnanack on, 107, 108 ; reproduced in Old London Street, 109 Baxter, Richard, 61, 271 Beacon, 118 Beams, Mr., 263, 264 Bear at Bridge Foot, 17, 41, 169; lines from ' Last Search after Claret,' 302 ; built by Thomas Drynkewatre, ib. ; Henry Leake, 304 ; Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, ib. ; Earl of Buccleuch, ib. ; Shirley's Lady of Pleasure, 305 ; Ballads mentioning the Bear, ib. ; visits of Samuel Pepys, 306, 307 ; Sir John Suckling, 307 ; the Duke of Richmond and Frances Stewart, 307, 308 ; tilt boats, 308 ; water- side taverns, ib. ; trial for arson, 309 ; vestry dinners, 310 ; Wycherley, 3 1 1 ; trade tokens, 312; Cornelius Cooke, landlord. 312, 313; Taylor's lines, 315; pulled down, ib. ; coins found, ib. ; Vade Mecuin for Maltworms, ib. Bear or Bere Alley, 303, 313 Bear Garden, 62, 300, 333 Bear and Ragged Staff, 333, 334 Bear, Stratford-on-Avon, 303 Bear's Claw, 334 Bear's College, 366 Beauclerk, Topham, 72 Becket, Thomas ^,171 Beer Pot, 327 Beeston, Adam, 90 ; Cuthbert, ib. Beggars' Bush, 358 Beggars' Hall, or Mock Beggar Hall, 52, 358 Bell, Bankside, 329, 333 Bell, Bear Alley, 297, 315 Bell, Clink Street, 316 Bell or Bull, Falcon Court, 264 Bell, Gracechurch Street, 235 Bell, High Street ; mentioned by Chaucer, 292 ; its site, ib. ; land- lord in 1577, ib.; sacramental token, 293 ; trade token, ib. Bell, near Horse Shoe Alley, 322 Bell, Montague Close, 316 Bell, Wood Street, 99 Bellamy, host of 'Three Brushes,' 105 Bellarmine, 27 Belle Sauvage, Ludgate Hill, 235, 294 Benson, Rev. Mr., 161 Bergheny, the, 118 Bermondsey, 2, 43, 92, 290, 334 Bermondsey, rector of, 43 Bermondsey Abbey, 33, 290, 351, .383, 389 Bermondsey Cross or Rood, 212, 381, 382 Bermondsey Fair, 108 Bermondsey New Road, 381, 389 Bermondsey Spa ; started by Thomas Keys, 394; tokens, 395; de- scription of, 396-398 Bermondsey Street, 381, 388 Bethell, Slingsby, 192 INDEX 421 Bethlehem Hospital, 369, 377 Bible, first printed in England, 108 Birch, Mr. G. H., 107, 109 Bird Cage Alley, 239, 261, 262, 265 Black Bull, High Street; drinking there, 143 ; near White Lion Prison, 272 ; given to St. Thomas's Hospital, ib. Black Bull, Montague Close, 301 Black Bull, Old Kent Road, 248, 381-385 Blackfriars Playhouse, 335, 352 Black Spread Eagle Alley, 248 Black Swan, no; in early map, 118; used for petty sessions, 289 Blacke Street, 345 Blackman Street, 248, 344 Blue Anchor, 326 Blue-eyed Maid, 278 Blue Maid; in charter, Edward VI., 88; 'drolls' printed there, 238, theatrical performances, 240, 241 ; in early map, 277 ; now Chapel Court, ib. Blue Pump, 358 Boar's Head, Aldgate, 235 Boar's Head, Bankside, 115, 329, 337 Boar's Head, Counter Lane, 1 1 5 Boar's Head, Eastcheap, no, in Boar's Head, High Street, no; relics found there, n i ; craved by Henry Wyndesore, ib. ; left by Fastolfe to Magdalen College, ib. ; John Harvard, n 5 ; Boar's Head Court in the eighteenth century, ib. ; leased to the father of John Timbs, 112; cellar, n 4 ; illustrations, ib.; trade token, ib.; its destruction, 1 1 S Bole and Roose, 329, 332 Boleyn, Anne, 106, 108 Bolingbroke, Lord, 72 Bonner, 271 Borough, 4, 9 Borough Waterworks, 48, 68, 69 Boswell, James, 10, 71 Boteler, Ehza ; her petition, 330, 331 Botoner. See William of Worcester Bottle of hay, 6 Bowhng Green, 241, 243, 246, 252, 257 Brace, 270 Bradshaw's Rents, 329 Brand, Sir Matthew, 60, 326 Brande, Mr., 326 Brandon, Sir Thomas, 62 Brandon. See Duke of Suffolk Braun and Hodenberg's map, 34, 357 Brent's Court, formerly Three Tun Alley, 344 Brewers' Arms, 33 Brewers of fourteenth century, 13 ; Flemish, 40 ; in Southwark, 41-84 Bricklayers' Arms ; false statements as to its antiquity, 388 ; old found- ations, 389 ; relics found, 390 ; skeleton, ib.; Bricklayers' Gild, 391 Bridewell, 271, 365 Bridge House, 38, 49 ; estate, 369 ; hall, 53 Bromfield or Bromfyld, 104, 300 Browker family, i 5 5 Browne, Sir Anthony, Viscount Montague, 317 Browne family, 155 Brownists, a religious sect, 57 Buccleuch, Earl of, 304 Bucke Head, 33 Buckenham Square, 384, 385 Buckler, J. C, 92 Bull or Black Bull. See Three Tuns, High Street Bull, Aldgate, 63 Bull, Bishopsgate Street, 235, 236 Bull Head Alley, Banhorde, 188, 329 Bull Head or Bull's Head, High Street, 17; in early map, 298; Bull Head Churchyard, 299 ; Roman remains, ib. ; resort of Edward Alleyn, 300 ; burnt down in 1676, 301 ; disappears, ib. 422 INDEX Bull Ring, 343, 344 Bunch of Grapes, 412 Bunyan, John, 64, 65 Burbage, Richard, 57, 335 Burial-grounds ; Bull Head, 299 ; Cross Bones, 51, 289, 319, 329, 363 ; Deverell Street, 381 ; Flemish, 40, 91, no, 114; St. George's, Old Kent Road, 386 Burke, Edmund, 70 Burney, Miss, 74 Burr, Olifif, 39 Bush Tavern, 412 Bute, Earl of, 348 Cade, Jack, 129, 131-134, 138 Campbell, Dr. Thomas, 70 Canute's trench, 2, 380 Capon. See Salcote Capon, W., 353 Cardinal's Cap Alley, Bankside, 338 Cardinal's Cap, Lombard Street, 339 Cardinal's Hat, Bankside, 115; sign painted, 329 ; John Taylor there, 338 ; in token book, 339 Carnalls Hat Alley, 338 Carriers' Cosmographie, Taylor's, 22 Carter, John, 46, 105, 107 Carter Lane, or Walnut Tree Alley, 7, 89 ; crypt, 90, 93 ; cider cellar, 91 ; chapel, 94, 116 Cary, Sir John, 203 Castle, Bankside, 329, 358 Castle Court, Lane, Street, 62, 63 Castle, Fleet Street, 146 Castle tenement, 95 Catherine Wheel ; Midland Railway occupies site, 23, 282 ; shows there, 239 ; Flecknoe on such signs, 278 ; the saint, 279 ; belonged to St. Thomas's Hospital, ib.; swindling transactions, 280; trade tokens, 281 ; carriers, 282 ; pulled down, ib. Chamberlain's Wharf, 7 Champaigne, Ceciha, 176 Chapel, Carter Lane, 94 Chapel, Chapel Court, 277 ; Crosby Row, Snow Fields, 71, 274, 275, 277 ; Deadman's Place, 57-59, 289 ; Globe Alley Chapel, 59-62 ; New Park Street, 94 ; Rowland Hill's, 261 ; Union Street Chapel, 239 Charles L, 18, 107, 343 Charles IL, statue of, 203 Chaucer, Geoffrey, 17, 24, 29; and the Tabard, 171, 172 ; Canterbury Tales, 172-175 ; descriptions of him, 175 ; sketch of his life, 175- 1 80 ; pilgrims, 1 80 ; authorities consulted, ib. ; on the Bell Inn, 292 Chaucer, John, 175; Richard, 176; William, ib. Chequer Alley, 98, 103 Chequers, origin as a sign, 98-100 Chettle, Henry, 337 Child, Josiah, 64 Chimney-sweepers, 256 Cholmley, partner with Henslowe, 331 Cholmley, John, brewer, 53 Chowne, Nicholas, 47 Christopher's Alley, now Kentish Buildings, 212 Christopher, Bermondsey Street, 212, 412 Church Alley, once ' Smits Alle,' 93 Circot or Syrcote, another name for the Tabard, 88, 182 Clark, Margaret, tried for arson, 309 Clarke's Alley, 339 Clement, 294 Gierke, Lady Jacosa, 339, 405 Clifford, Lady, 318 Cline, Henry, 215 Clink Liberty, 339, 340 Clink Prison, 321, 322 Chnk Street, 321 Coach and Horses, 259 Cobham's Inn. See the Green Dragon INDEX 423 Cobham, Joan, Lady, 295 Cobham, Richard Temple, Viscount, 66 Cock, Bankside, 333 Cock, Kent Street, 325 Cock, or Cok, Mill Lane, 86, 87 Cock, Mint, 257 Cock and Bottle, 358 Cock and Hart Yard, 152; tene- ment, 213 Cock and Hoop, 213 Cock and Pie. See Woolpack Cocker, Edward, 268, 269 Cokayne, Sir Aston, 299 Colet, Humfrey, 156 Colman, George, the younger, 222 Compter (Prison), 152, 155, 202, 270 Concanen and Morgan, 53, 75, 299, 327, 353, 375 Cooke, Cornelius, 312, 313 Cooper's Arms, 399 Cooper, Astley, 215 Copley, Sir Robert, 4 1 Copley family, 87, 294 Cordwainers' Company, 51, 52, 291 Corner, George A., 34, 65, 74, 95, loi, 106, 154, 155, 191, 217, 219, 313, 385 Cotton's warehouses, 49 Counter Lane, afterwards Counter Street, 52 Courage and Co., 34 Court House, 152, 202, 203 Coverdale, Miles, 42 Cox, Charles, M.P. for Southwark, S3, 150 Cox, inventor of ' Drolls,' 238 Cox, Thomas, brewer, 47 Crane, 329, 338 Cranfield, Mr., 263, 264 Crawley, Widow, 63 Cribb, Thomas, pugilist, 252, 253 Cromwell, Thomas, Earl of Essex, 89, 90, 142, 182 Crosby Row Chapel, 71, 274, 275, 277 Crosby Row, Snow Fields, 71 Cross Bones Burial-ground, 51, 289, 319, 329, 363 Cross Keys, Bankside, 205, 329 Cross Keys, Gracechurch Street, 235> 236 Cross Keys or Crowned Keys, High Street, afterwards Queen's Head Inn, 204, 205 ; Crowned Keys, as an armoury, 416 Crosse, John, 49, 50 Crown 88, 253, 412 Crown, Chequer Alley, 104 Crown and Anchor, New Kent Road, 254 Crown Court, near the Bankside, 343 Crown Court, High Street, 158 Crucifix Lane, 212 Cruden, Alexander, 58 Cruikshank, George, 68 Crypt, under St. Olave's Grammar School, 9 1 ; in Walnut Tree Alley, 90, 91 ; supposed, in White Horse Court, 96 Cucking stool, 321 Cuming, Syer, 291 Cuper's Gardens, 361 Cure, Thomas, 52, 102, 122, 275, 293, 296 Cure's College, 52, 301 Cursen, Robert, 40, 90, 102 Custumarie, 2 Dagger, 303 Dancing Bears ; frequented by Alleyn, 17 ; built by Henslowe, 334 : wit- nesses in a suit there, 335 Daniel, Sir Peter, M.P., 268 Danyel, John, Prior of Lewes, 134 Dartmouth, Richard, Abbot of Battle, 134 Dead Tree, 393 Deadman's Place, 51, 59, 321 Deadman's Place Meeting-house, 57, 58, 59, 289, 374 De Castro, 370, 376 Dekker, T., 12, 151, 332 424 INDEX Deverell Street Burial-ground, 381 Dickens, Charles ; description of White Hart, 146-148: Micawber, 270; later Marshalsea and lodging in Lant Street, 272 Dillon, Hon. H. A., 416 Dirty Lane, now Suffolk Street, 261, 344, 364 Dispensary, Surrey, 289 Dog and Bear, 283 Dog and Duck, Bermondsey, 377 Dog and Duck, Deadman's Place, 321, 377 Dog and Duck, St. George's Fields, fort there, 368 ; old public-house, lb. ; stone sign, 369 ; bcomes a spa, ib. ; Hedger family, 370 ; advertisements, etc., 371; resort of bad characters, 373, 374 ; license taken away, 374 ; granted by city, 375 ; lawsuit, ib. ; charit- able dinner, ib. ; Hedger's building speculations, 376 ; pantomime of Dog and Duck, 377 Doggett, Thomas, 273 Dolls Public-house, 300 Dolphin, Inn and Brewhouse, 303, 304 Doran, Dr., 64, 65 Drew's Rents, 325 Drewett, W., 165 Drynkewatre, Thomas, 302 Ducrow, Andrew, 222 Dulwich College, 340 Dun Horse, 23, 267, 268 Duraunte, Peter Van, a/ias Pickell Heringe, 36 Dutch population, 328 Dyer, Sir Edward, 311, 323, 332 Dyers, 316 Elephant Alley, 327 Elephant, Oliphant or Red Hart, 327, 328 Elephant and Castle ; plays of Shake- speare performed hard by, 378 ; early histoiy, 379 ; Joanna South- cote's place of worship, 380 ; Canute's trench, id. ; human remains, ib. Elwes. See Meggott Epicure^ s Almanack, 108, 193, 214, 220, 223 Evans, R. P., 161, 168, 201 Evelyn, John, 236, 237, 308 Fairholt, F. W., 129 Falcon, now Adam's Place, once the ' Pewter Pott on the Hoope,' 120 ; burnt, 246 ; identification of site, 344 Falcon, Bankside ; name still exists, 350; place once known as Wid- flete, 350; 'ffawcon' mentioned in deed of Henry VIH., 35 i ; sold as church property, ib. ; no record of Shakespeare there, 352 ; Taylor's rhymes, ib. ; carriers, 352 ; Pepys visits it, ib.; Christo- pher Wren and next house, 353, 345 ; Capon's drawing, 353 ; railings of St. Paul's, 355, 357 ; boats on hire at the Falcon, 361 Falcon, Blue Ball Alley, 259 Falcon Court, High Street, 120, 264, 266, 273 Falcon, by St. Thomas's Hospital, 118 Fastolfe, Sir John, owned the Boar's Head, 17, 1 1 1 ; Henry Wyndesore craved it, ib. ; Wyndesore's ac- count of him, 137; his great house in Stoney Lane, 32, 33 ; his possessions in Southwark, 33 ; his connection with the herring trade, 36 ; Pickle Herring, 37, 38 ; ffostalle niylles, 41 ; benefaction to Magdalen College, Oxford, 1 1 1 ; Reliquia Hear7iiancE on, 112; made Knight of Garter, and after- wards disgraced, 136; married, 137 ; lender of money, ib. ; his secretary and physician, William of Worcester, 139; Fastolfe and INDEX 425 Bishop Waynflete, 139, 140; his death, 141; Fastolfe and Falstaff, ib. Faulkner, Francis, pubhsher, 162 Feathers, 320 Fielding, Henry, 240 Fighting Cocks, 258 Finch's Grotto Gardens, or Gold- . smiths' Arms ; place of amuse- ment, 357 ; associated with a well, 362 ; dinners and musical enter- tainments, ib. ; later phases, 363 ; chief station of London Fire Brigade covers site, 364 Fire engine ; first steam, 79 ; first with leather pipes, 153; one mentioned by Pepys, 220 Fish Pondhouses, 342 Fitzpatrick, Mr. W. J., 142 Five Pints, 357 Fleetwood, Recorder of London, 3 Flemish Burial-ground, 40, 91, 1 1 o, 114 Fletcher, John, 52 ; buried in St. Saviour's, 299 ; lived in Addison's Rents, 335 ; account of his feast by Taylor, 52, 336 Fletcher, Richard, 339 Fleur de lis or Flower de Luce mentioned by Stow, 87 ; in Charter, Edward VI., 88 ; Taylor's rhymes, ib. Flower Pot, 259 Foul Lane, now York Street, 295, 296, 361 Full Pot, 357 Fuller, T., 134, 135; Worthies, 135 Fulstale, 28, 29 Furnivall, F. J., 60, 175, 176, 190, 386 Gage, George, 92, 93 Gairdner, Mr., 134, 141 Gaols. See Prisons Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, 233 Gardner, Mr. J. E., preface, 200, 353, 364 Garfoote, William, 189 Garland's Rents, 337 Garrick, David, 70, 374 Gaunt, John of, 177, T78 George Inn, east side of High Street; railway receiving-house, 23, 166 ; drinking there, 143 ; noted by Stow, 156; originally St. George, ib. \ owned by Humfrey Colet, ib. ; carriers there, 157; verses on, ib. ; trade tokens, ib.; fires, 158; re- buildings, ib. ; various tenants, 1 58, 159; Lord Digby, 159; advertis- ing card, ib. ; modern accounts, 161 ; Hill's printing-house, 163; Hill, stationer, ib. ; sold to Guy's Hospital, 166; little altered, ib. ; illustrations, 167, i68 ; suicide in the yard, 1 69 ; visited by Copley's man, 294 George Yard and Alley, west side of High Street, site of an inn, 344 George Public-house, Bankside, 77,85 George Public-house, Stoney Street, called also the Bishop's House, 319, 320 George, Salisbury, 165 George's, St., Bars. See Southwark Bars George's, St., Burial-ground, Old Kent Road, 386 George's, St., Church, 240, 267, 268, 271, 274 George's, St., Fields, 140, 340, 365- 377 George's Street, 360 Gerard's Herbal, 359, 393 Gerrard's Letters to Lord Strafford, 305, 308 Gildable Manor, 23, 49 Globe Alley, 51 ; absorbed by the Anchor Brewery, 62 ; originally Brande's Rents, 326 ; site of Globe Playhouse, ib. Globe Alley Chapel or Meeting-house, 59, 60; called also Maide Lane Meeting-house, 61 426 INDEX Globe Playhouse; originally built by the Burbages, 57 ; first Globe burnt, second built on the old foundation, 326 ; second Globe pulled down, 60 ; replaced by tenements, 161; chapel afterwards built on site, ib. Globe Tavern ; was there one attached to the Playhouse ? 326 ; here in later times, 326, 327 ; forged letter relating to, 327 Glynne, Mr. Serjeant, 349 Goat, 294 Goat and Crown, 258 God's Providence, 341 Godes-good, a herb, 29 Golden Lion; shows there, 241, 243 ; mentioned by Strype, 243 ; Tom Cribb keeps a Golden Lion, 253 Golding's Brewery, 49 Goldsmiths' Arms. See Finch's Grotto Gardens Goldsmith, Oliver, 70, 72 Good Intent, 255 Gordon Riots, 71 Gower, John, ii8, 128, 129, 317 Grange Road, Bermondsey, 377, 395 Grapes Tavern, 120 Great Dover Street, 248, 381 Great Suffolk Street, formerly Dirty Lane, 361 Green Dragon, once the inn of the Cobhams, 7 ; early references, 294-296; Taylor's rhymes, 296; carriers there, ib. ; office of Penny Post, 297 Green Lattice, 100 Green Man, Kent Road, 391 Green Man, Long Lane, 2 1 4 Greene, Robert, 35, 175 Gresham, John, 122 Grey Friars' Chronicle, 131 Greyhound, High Street ; connected with Southwark Fair, 243 ; old carriers' inn, 287 ; yard becomes part of Union Street, 288 ; Mr. Gwilt's house, ib. ; sepulchral remains, 289; Cross Bones Burial- ground, ib. ; dissenting chapel and Union Hall, ib. ; sport in South- wark, 290 Greyhound, Horse Shoe Alley ; be- longed to Cordwainers' Company, 291 ; part of Minge's Charity, ib. ; further mention, 328 Griffin, Bankside, 325 Griffin, Church Street, 249 ; attempted robbery next door, 249; Jemmy Welsh, landlord, 250 ; Tom Sayers at the Griffin, ib. Grosvenor Arms, Friday Street, 5 Grotto Burial-ground, 363, 364 Gues, 143, 301 Guildford Street, 341, 361 Guldeford Castle, 62 Gun, Bankside, 329 Guy's Hospital, 58, 166, 210, 211 Guy, Thomas, 58, 118 Guylford, Lady, 62 Gwilt, family, 91, 288, 289 Gwynn, Nell, 192 Hackeney-men of Southwark, 181 Half Moon Inn; plays, 240 ; sign in Hogarth's Southwark Fair, ib. ; great fire there, 245 ; rebuilt, 246 ; existing stone sign, ib. ; Epicure''s Almanack on, ib. Hall's Chronicles, 131 Halliwell, now Halliwell Phillipps, 26, 27, 100, 134, 141, 142, 188, 231, 235, 236, 303, 305, 326, 331, 344, 351, 358, 366, 378, 405 Hall, Hubert, 187 Hall, Jacob, rope dancer, 237, 238- 344 Halsey, Anne, 66 Halsey, Edmund ; elected M.P. for Southwark, 54 ; in favour, 55 ; account of him and his connection with the Anchor Brewery, 65-67 INDEX 427 Hand and Shears, Cloth Fair, 244 Hangman's Acre, 258, 261 Harp, 386 Harris, Mr., hat manufacturer, 363 Harris, Richard, killed at London Bridge, 58 Harrison, William ; on inns, 9, 10 ; on construction of lattice, loi Harrow, recommended by Taylor, 124 ; trade token, 260 Harte Home, 33 Harvard family ; deaths from plague at Pepper Alley, 73, 206 ; mostly butchers, 114; Robert Harvard, 115, 207 ; John Harvard, founder of the University, his birthplace, 114, 115, owns the Queen's Head, 206 ; Mr. Waters on, ib. ; a Har- vard has the Ship Inn, 116; vari- ous spellings of the name, 208 ; Mr. Harvye's bill, ib. ; Harvye's children on St. Lucy Day, 231 ; Mrs. Harvey of the (Jreen Dragon, 297 Hatch, Joe, 316 Hatton's New View of London, 148, 168 Hawke Tavern, 412 Hawkins, John, 268 Hay's Wharf, on site of Battle House, 39, S3 Haynau, Marshal ; attack on, 76, escape, ']^ Hedger family, 369, 370, 374-376 Heine, Heinrich, 13 Henry VHI., 108, 124, 205 Henslowe, Philip ; owns the Boar's Head, Bankside, 115, 337; his residence, 322 ; connection with Rose Playhouse, 331 ; property on Bankside, 333 ; his theatrical companies, 335 ; Spencer's Rents, 336; churchwarden, 337; assessor of a subsidy, 340 ; owner of the Unicorn, Bankside, 342 Hester estate, 96 Hewlett, Edward, 301 High Bere House, 33, 34, 41 High Street, the main street in the Borough, extending from London Bridge to St. George's Church Hill, Dr. Birkbeck, 72 Hill, Robert, stationer, 163-165 Hilles Rents, 325 Hills, Henry, printer, 161, 163 Hilton, Lady, 318 Hinchinbrooke, Lord, 306 Hitchcock, Robert, 35 Hoefnagle, 34 Hogarth, William, 99, 238, 240, 241 Hogmagog Hall. See Old Bull Holinshed's Chronicle, 134 Holland's Leaguer, 357-359 Holland Street, 359 Holmes, Copper, 396, 398, 399 Holt, Chief Justice, 20 Holy Water Sprinklers. See Three Brushes Hope Bear Garden, 62 Hope Playhouse, 233, 234 Hops, 29, 40 Hore, Gerrard, 345 Home, Mr., 350 Horse, 124 Horse Head. See Nag's Head Horse Shoe Alley, 40, 51, 291, 323, 328 Horse Shoe, Blackman Street, called also Sacheverell's alehouse, 5 5 ; political meeting there, ib. ; trade token, 348 ; connection with Sacheverell, ib. ; mentioned in the Vade Mecuni, ib. ; William Allen shot there, 349; coaches and carriers, ib. Horselydown, 32, 34, 36, 40, 41, 334 Horsemonger Lane or Union Road, 345, 347 Horsemonger Lane Gaol, 249 Hospitality of religious houses, 6 Hostelers and Herbergeours, 5 Hostelries, antiquity of, 4 428 INDEX House of Correction, 271, 272 Howard, Sir John ; at the Pope's Head, 121 ; at the Tabard, 181 ; at the Bear, 304 Howard on prisons, 54 Howe, Richard, M.P., 155 Hoxton Fields, 336 Humble ; monument, 122 ; Lord Ward, 122 ; Mr., 337 ; Peter, 416 Hyde, Abbot of; his town mansion and chapel at the Tabard, 7, 170, 189; Abbot Salcote or Capon, 182, 183. See also Additions and Corrections Inns ; Stow's list of South wark, 4 ; John Aubrey on, 6 ; Inns of Court, 7; Bailey's definition, z'/5.; Spenser, Dryden, Archbishop Leighton, Quarles, on inns, 7, 8 ; descriptions of English inns by Wm. Harrison and Fynes Moryson, 9-12 ; music and shows, 1 2 ; business transac- tions, 99 ; plays at inns, 232-243 Innholders, Company of, 6 ; inn- holders and pageants, 231 Ironmonger family ; probably the same as Iremonger and Monger, 50, 51 ; Monger's brewhouse, 51 ; Ironmonger, 337 Jamaica House and Tea Gardens, 399 ; Pepys there, 400 ; reputed residence of Cromwell, ib. ; still standing in 1854, 400, 401 John, St., of Jerusalem, Mills of, 33 John's, St., Mill or Paris Garden Mill, 331 Johnson, Garrat, sculptor of Shake- speare's bust, 188 Johnson, Samuel ; his quotations on inns, 7 ; his account of Ralph Thrale, 66 ; verses on Lady Lade, 67 ; at an election, 69 ; at the Brewery, 70 ; Boswell's Life, 72 ; on Pepper Alley, id.; as Thrale's executor, 73 ; his room and the garden at the Brewery, 75 ; his gift to a Highland girl, 269 Jones, Gale, 216, 217 Jones, Mr., ironfounder, 353 Karkeek, Mr., 180, i8i Kater Lane. See Carter Lane Kembe, Andrew, publisher, 161 Kent Street, 247, 248, 386 Kentish Building. See Christopher's Alley Kildare, Lady, 318 King's Arms, Bermondsey Street, 412 King's Arms, Blackman Street, probably part of the Unicorn, 347 King's Arms, King Street, now New- comen Street ; sign from London Bridge, 228, 229 King's Arms, Old Kent Road, 254 King's Arms, St. Margaret's Hill, 229 King's Barge House, 360 King's Bench Prison ; marshal of, 54; later King's Bench, 270, 271 King's Head, Blackman Street, 127 King's Head, near St. George's Church, 127 King's Head, Glean Alley, 127 King's Head, Gravel Lane, 127 King's Head, formerly Pope's Head, east side of High Street ; Roman remains found here, 121 ; Abbot of Waverley, 122; change of name, I'i. ; John Gresham and others connected with the inn, id.; burnt down and rebuilt, 123; carriers, i6.; Taylor's lines, 124; King's Head in 1720, ii. ; illustrations, 125 ; last tenants, 126, 127 ; new tavern, 127 ; drinking at the King's Head, 143 King's Head, Long Lane, 214 King's Head, Thatcham, 63 King's Head, Tooley Street, 127 King's Head, White Horse Court ; ancient crypt, used as the wine INDEX 429 cellar, 92 ; part of Hestor estate, 96 ; called also Southwark House, ib. Knight, Mr. Charles, 153, 196, 198, 356 Knights Hows. See Manor House Labour in Vain, 259, 261 Lade family connected with Thrales, 66, 67, 364 Lambarde, William, 5, 234 Lambeth Marsh, 290 Lardner, Dr., 98 Last Search after Claret in South- wark, 86,209; Satirical Dick, 300, 302,413 Lattice, Red and Green, 100, loi, 151 Laud, William, 43, 301 Leake family ; Henry, brewer and founder of St. Olave's Grammar School, 41, 42 ; has quit rent of Bear and Dolphin, 304 ; two other Henrys, 41 Leg in Boot, 86 Leopard Coffee-house, 109, no Lewes, Inn of Priors of ; site partly occupied by St. Olave's Grammar School, partly by Walnut Tree Inn, 88, 89 ; two ci-ypts, 89 ; De Warrennes' House, ib. Lewes, Priory of, 89 Ley ton's Grove, 97 Lion, 332 Little Lamb Alley, 249 Lock Bridge, 383, 386, 388 Lock Hospital, 382, 383 Lombard Garden, 60 Londinum, Ptolemy on, i London Bridge ; origin, 2 ; project to erect waterhouse on, 47 ; fight- ing on, 132; Royal Arms from, 228 ; haberdasher on, 304 ; deaths by drowning, 305 ; Norden's plan, ib. ; gate and stulpes, 3 1 3 London, New Review of, 413-416 London taverns and brewhouses, 1 3 Long Lane, 388 Love Lane, 338 Lovejoy, Caleb, 94 Ludgershallor Lategareshall, William de, 170 Mabb or Mabbe family, 185-188, 405-41 1 Macaulay, Lord, 53, 72 Macklin, Charles, 240 Magdalen College, Oxford, 33, in, 1 12 Magnus, St., Church of, 23, 87 Magpie, High Street, 109 Magpye, Bridge Foot, 3 1 5 Maide or Maid Lane, 51, 291, 326, 331 Maidstone Buildings. See Bell Inn, High Street Maitland, W., 91, 380 Mahns Yard, 52 Malone, Edmund, 336 Malyn, Thomas, 52 Man in the Moon, 365 Manning and Bray, 74, 89, 192, 263, 380 Manor House, originally the Knights Hows, 34 Manor House, built by De Warrenne, 89 Marden, Mr. Owen, 289 Margaret's, Gild of St., 49, 52, 180, 327 Margaret's, St., Church, 202 ; church- yard, 49, 292 Margaret's, St., Hill, 203, 289 Marshall, John, 226, 248, 318 Marshalsea, King's Court of, 3 Marshalsea Prison ; beer supplied at, 54, 5S ; 151, 159, 229, 270, 272, 278 ; later Marshalsea, 271 ; Dickens on, 272 Mary Magdalen Overy, Church of St., 202 Mary Overy, St., 2, 295 Mary Overy, Church of St., 93, 99, 153, 202, 299, 307 ; bells, 315 430 INDEX Mary Overy's, St., afterwards St. Saviour's Dock, 33, 45-47, 153 Mary Overy's, St., Priory, 46 Mary Overy's, St., Stairs, 323 Mason's Stairs, 339, 361 Massinger, Philip, 299 Matthevifs, Charles, 316 Matthews, Sir George, 54, 55 May Pole Alley, 284-286 Maze, 41, 87, 88 Meade, Jacob, 334, 335 Meal market, 86, 152, 155 Meggott, or Magott, 66, 313 Melancholy Walk, 364, 365 Mermaid ; in Charter, Edward VI., 88 ; in deed of 1565, 229 ; shows, 243, 257; Taylor's lines, 278; Strype's description, ib. Merton, Prior of, 338 Metropolitan Tabernacle, 94 Mill Lane, Tooley Street, 7, 33, 38, 47, 53, 86 Mill Street, Dockhead, 394 Miller, Joe, 273, 274 Minge's Charity, 291 Ministerial bill of fare, 207 Mint ; Fair driven into, 255 ; an Alsatia, 256; pottery, coins, etc., discovered there, ib.; Mint pubHc- houses, 256, 257 ; deaths by violence, 257 ; gibbet at Hang- man's Acre, 258; entrances, ib.; marriages and christenings, ib. ; 259 ; Tumbledown Dick, 260 ; Harrow, ib. ; schools established, 261, 262; Old Bull, 263-267; relief to a mint debtor, 411, 412 Monex, George, mayor, 49 Monger. See Ironmonger Montague Close, 289, 302, 309 Montague, Lord, 317, 323 Monteagle House, 318 Monteagle, Lord, 318 Moonrakers, 259 Morgan's Lane, 53 Moryson, Fynes, on inns, 10, 11 ; travelling, 21 ; beer, 41 Mowbray, John, Duke of Norfolk, 304 Mowl Strand, 339 Moyses Alley, 339 Munday, Sir John, mayor, 49 Murphy, Arthur, 70 Mynns, Mrs., booth owner, 238, 239 Mystery or Misterie, 6 Nag's Head, originally Horse Hede ; receiving-house of Great Western Railway, 23 ; early notices, 88, 221, 222; Andrew Ducrow born here, 222 ; mentioned by George Colman, ib. ; Epicures Almanack on, 223 ; present lessee, ib. ; illustrations, 224 ; curious elope- ment, 225 Nag's Head, Cheapside, 276 Naked Boy, 259, 261 Napier, Rev. Alexander, 72 Neckenger, 393, 394 New Gaol, 193, 271 New Park Street. See Maid Lane New Remarks of Lo7tdon, 23, 297 New Thames Street, 343 New White Horse, 97 Newcomen, Mrs., 226, 227 Newcomen Street. See Axe and Bottle Yard Newington, 335, 388 Newton's, Widow, , ' Rents, and Newton's tenements, 325 Next Bush, 358 Nicholsons, a brewing family, 44, 45 Nicholson's printing-press, 108, 161 Noah's Ark, 341 Noorthouck's History of .London, 228 Norman's Rents, 327 Northside, 339 Oares Rents, 339 Ogilby, John, 386 Olave's Church, St., 42, 90, 141, 312, 313; churchyard, 114 INDEX 431 Olave's Grammar School, St., 41, 42, 91 Old Bull or Black Bull, Mint, 261 ; former names, 263 ; account of late landlord, 263-266 Oldcastle, Sir John, Lord Cobham, 134. 135, 138, 139 Old Kent Road, 381, 386, 389 Old King's Arms, Surrey Row, 365 Old Red Cock, 87 Oldys, William, 136 Oilier, Edmund, 197, 198 Orange Tree Tea Garden, 357 Osborne, Sir Edward, Mayor of London and founder of Leeds family, 103, 185, 382 Overman family, 44, 155, 315, 318 Pack, Major, 3 1 1 Pageant, 231 Palatines, 1 50 Paradise Row, 364 Paris Garden, 290, 333, 350, 351, 359 Parish feasts, 207, 208, 310, 403 Park Street, 293 Parsons, Lady, 63 Paston Letters, 36, in, 131, 132, 136, 137, 171, 381, 382 Paston, Margaret, 134 Patay, Battle of, 136 Patterson, William, founder of Bank of England, 48 Paul's Cathedral, St., 353 Paul's Head, 300 Payne, John, 132 Payne, William, 334 Peabody Buildings, 63 Pelican, 93 Penn, William, 1 50 Pepper Alley, 72, 302, 303, 309, 318, 396, 398 Pepys, Samuel ; his taverns, 1 7 ; sees Londpn Fire from the Bank- side, 83; synagogue women, loi ; sees Southwark fire from his house, 219, 220; at Southwark Fair, 237, 238 ; adventures and visits to Bear at Bridge Foot, 306 ; remarks on church of St. Mary Overy, 307 ; at the Falcon, 353, 354 ; at the old Jamaica House, 400, 401 Perkins, Mr. Henry, 68, 73, 74 Peter's Head, 143, 204 Pewter Pot on the Hoop. See Falcon, Adam's Place Phillipps, Mr. J O. Halliwell. See Halliwell Pickle Herring, St. Olave's, 32 ; art of pickling herrings, 35 ; Peter Van Duraunte, 36 ; Dutch name of buffoon, 38 ; Shakespeare's Twelfth Night, ib.; Peckle- herring, 61 Pie-poudre, court of, 244, 245 Pike or Pye Garden, 341 Pilgrim's bottle dug up near the Tabard, 171 Pinchbeck, Christopher, 240, 241 Pitt's Place, 341 Plague, 59 Playhouses. See Blackfriars, Globe, Hope, Rose, Swan Pond yard, 341 Pope's Head. See King's Head Popular or Pople, a brewing family, 53 Porkett's Rents, 337 Porter, 30, 31 Pott family, 63 Potter, Captain, 290 Powell's Mystery of Lending and Borrowing, 308 Poynings or Poins family, 132, 134, 188, 204 Preston, John, 186, 187, 189 Prince Eugene, 257 Prisons. See Bridewell, Clink, Comp- ter, Horsemonger Lane, Gaol House of Correction, King's Bench, Marshalsea Queen's Arms ; shows there, 239,241 432 INDEX Queen's Head; tippling, 143, 206; earliest mention of name, 204 ; connection with Portsmouth, ib. ; Poyning family, ib. ; had been Crowned or Crossed Keys, 204 ; as an armoury, 205, 416 ; ecclesias- tical signs, 205 ; Queen's Head owned by John Harvard, 206 ; vestry dinners, 207, 208 ; carriers, 208 ; owners in 1 560 and onwards, ib. ; ' Old Sir Simon the King,' 209; cricketers, 210; illustra- tions, 210, 211; right of way, 221 Raleigh, Sir Walter, 1 7 1 Ram and Harrow, 259 Ram, meal market, 86 Ram, Ram Alley, 332 Ram's Head, owned by Sir John Fastolfe, 85, 86, 242, 412 Raven and Bottle, 259 Red Cow, 256 Red Cross, 283, 300 Red Cross Square, 283 Red Cross Street, 283 Red Lattice, 100 Red Lion Brewhouse, 50 ; street, ib. Red Lion, High Street, 286 Red Lion, Portsmouth, 204 Red Lion Street, 50 Red Lion and Key, Mill Lane, 87 Red Rose, 257 Religious signs, changed to secular ones, 104, 121, 156, 205, 278, 279, 294 Restoration, 357, 367, 368 Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 70, 72 Rich, Peter, M.P. for Southwark, iSS, 268 Richard IL, 128 Richardson, Sir Richard, 119 Richmond, Duke of, 307 Riley, H. T., 5, 13, 157, 184, 277 Rochester House, 7, 319, 325 Rocket's Rents, 339 Roman rehcs, iii, 120, 121, 169, 275, 288, 289, 292, 308, 315, 380, 381, 390 Roose, 322, 335 Rose Alley, 331 ; estate, 331, 332, 341 ; tenement, 333 Rose and Crown, 331 Rose Playhouse, 331, 335 Royal Oak, High Street, 241, 259 Royal Oak, Kent Street, 264 Rush, Mr., 62 ; Widow, 63 Rushey Green, 332 Russell, Mr., 337 Russell's Rents, 339 Sacheverell, Dr., 348 Sacheverell's alehouse. See Horse Shoe Sackvyle, Sir Richard, 342 Sacramental tokens, 50, 226, 293, 296, 315, 322, 324, 326, 327-329, 331, 335-339; token books, 324, 325 Sacramental wines, 403 Salcote. See Hyde, Abbot of Salmon, Mr., 62 Saltpetre, 323 Salutation, Bermondsey Street, 124 Salutation, High Street, 294 Saracen's Head, Friday Street, 5 Saracen's Head, Snow Hill, 63 Satirical Dick. See Last Search after Claret Saunders, John, 185, 196 St. Saviour's Charity School, 319, 329 St. Saviour's Church. See St. Mary Overy's Church St. Saviour's Church registers, 404, 405 St. Saviour's Grammar School, 295, 296 St. Saviour's or Savory Dock, Horse- lydown, 33, 394 St. Saviour's Dock, Bankside. See St. Mary Overy's Dock Say, Lord, 131 Sayers, Tom, 251, 252 INDEX 433 Scharf, George, senior, 97, 106 Score at the bar, 26 Scottes Rents, 338 Scraggs, John, 275, 279, 343, 344 Scrubb Square, 333 Seal of the Patriarch of Constanti- nople, 1 1 1 Selby, Walford D., 29, 178, 179 Selbyes Rents, 339 Sewars, Jurie of, 5 1 Shaftesbury, Earl of, 265 Shakespeare, Edmund, 299 Shakespeare, Peter, 291, 328 Shakespeare, William ; pickle-herring, 38 ; Brownists, 57 ; Boar's Head, Eastcheap, no; his play of Henry IV., 1 34, 135; and Henry VI., I3S; Queen Mab, 187; his Southwark residence, 188, 336; his bust at Stratford-on-Avon, 188; ' We Three,' 218; an actor at inns, 235 ; doubtless knew the Bear at Bridge Foot, 303 ; connection with Globe and Blackfriars theatres, 325 ; allusion to the 'Elephant' in Twelfth Night, 327; Shakespeare and the Falcon, 352; some of his plays performed at Newington Butts, 379 Ship, Greenwich, 207 Ship, High Street, no; early notices, 116; sold to St. Thomas's Hospital, ib. ; owned by Harvards, id. ; illustration, 1 1 7 Ship and Shovel, 150 Shipp or Gaily e, 345 Shipwrights' Arms, 255 Shirley, James, 305 Shorter, Sir John, 64, 65 Sidney, Sir Philip, 331, 332 Signs; William Harrison on, 10 ; why necessary, 1 4 ; a late Lord Mayor on, 15; often elaborate, i6. ; religious signs, change of, 104, 121, 156, 205, 278, 279 ; Ale stakes, 277 ; Ball, 102 ; Barking Dogs, 366 ; Bear at Bridge Foot, 17 ; Bear and Ragged Staff, 333, 334 ; Bell on the Hoop, 277 ; Black Bull, 16 ; Blue Boar, 1 6 ; Boar's Head, 1 7 ; Bull's Head, id. ; Bush, 275 ; Castle, Fleet Street, 148; Chequers, 98- 100; Christopher, 16; Cock and Pie (see Woolpack) ; Cock on the Hoop, 277; Crossed Keys, 16; Death's Head, id. ; Dog and Duck, 369 ; Elephant and Castle, 378 ; Fellmongers' Arms, 16 ; Golden Falcon, id. ; Half Moon, 240, 246 ; Holy Water Sprinklers, 16; Hoop, 275; Kay sur le Hoope, 277 ; King's Arms, 227 ; King's Head, 124 ; Lattice, 100, loi ; Lion on the Hoop, 277 ; Mayden en la Hope, 277 ; Naked Boy, 16, 261 ; Naked Man, 261 ; Old Red Cock, 87 ; Pope's Head, 16 ; Pye on the Hope, 277; Red Lion, 16; Salutation, id. ; Simon the Tanner, id. ; Swanne on the Hoope, 277 ; Tabard, 17, 183, 198; Talbot, 184; Three Tuns, 16,214; Three Loggerheads, 1 6 ; Tumbledown Dick, id. ; White Bear, 1 9 ; White Hart, 17, 148 ; White Swan, 247 ; Wooden Dishclout, 366 ; Woolpack, 16 Simpson, Rev. W. Sparrow, 356 Skelton, Rev. Charles, 59 Skin Market, 343 Smith, Albert, student at Guy's, 1 50 Smith, Charles Roach, 18, 19, 171 Smith, J. T., 97, 107, 315, 316, 396-399 Smith, Miss Toulmin, 231 Smiths' Arms, 341 ' Smits Alle.' See Church Alley Smollett, Tobias, 22, 242 Smythe, John, brewer, 50 Snow Fields, 71 Somerset House registers, 58 Southwark ; W. J. Loftie on, . i ; 2 F 434 INDEX originally a marsh, ib. ; Romans in, I, 2 ; Saxons and Danes, 2 ; Normans, ib. \ refuge of male- factors, 3 ; becomes Bridge Ward Without, 4 ; Hundred Roll, 29 ; brewers by the Thames, 32 ; Southwark Castle, 62 ; appearance before the great fire, 150; great fire, 152; bridge, 329; bar, 384 Southwark Fair ; plays, 230 ; Evelyn and Pepys on, 236, 237 ; ' drolls,' 238 ; booths, ib. ; various performances there, 239-243 ; Hogarth's picture, 240, 242 ; court of Pie-poudre, 244, 245 ; suppression of Fair, 255 Southwark Park, 51, 182 Southwark Place, 265 Speght, 186 Spencer's Rents, 336 Spencer, Gabriel, 336 Spenser, Edmund, 7 Sport in Southwark, 290, 333, 352 Spur ; early records, 219 ; fire there, ib. ; Strype on, 220 ; Epicure's Almanack, ib. ; carriers there, 221 ; illustrations, ib. Spurgeon, Rev. C. H., 94 Stage-coaches, 23 Star Corner, 290 Steam fire-engine, 79 Steel Yard, 150 Stewart, Frances, 307 Stewes Bank, 329 Stone's End, 55, 344 Stoney Lane, Tooley Street, 32, 36 Stoney Street or Stoney Lane, 319- 321 Stow, John, 4, 87, 170, 183, 202, 329 Strafford, Lord, 305, 308 Stratford, Lady, 333 Strype, John, 96, 124, 144, 347 Stulpes, 176, 313 Suckling, Sir John, 3 1 7 Suett, Dicky, 362 Suffolk, Charles Brandon, Duke of, 120, 265, 344 Suffolk House, 120, 265, 344 Suffolk Street, 344 Sumpnour, 29, 30 Sun, 143 Sun and Garter, 256 Surrey Dispensary, 289, 290 Surrey Gardens, 94 Swan Alley, 302 Swan, Fish Street Hill, 287 Swan, Old Kent Road, 252 Swan, Westminster, 353 Swan with two Necks, 301, 302 Swan playhouse, 233 Tabard ; connection with Chaucer, 17 ; called also Circot or Syrcote, 88, 182 ; most ancient Southwark inn, 1 69 ; Roman relics found near, ib. ; town mansion and chapel of Abbot of Hyde connected with it, 1 70 ; WiUiam de Ludgers- hall owned the site, ib. ; Stow's words, ib. ; starting - place of Chaucer's pilgrims, 171 ; lines from Canterbury Tales, 172 ; pil- grim's . bottle, token of Beckett, 171 ; Henry Bailley, host, 174; description of Geoffrey Chaucer, 17s ; sketch of his life, 175-180; Gild of St. Margaret's, near the Tabard, 1 80 ; horses of Chaucer's pilgrims, 181 ; Joh'es Brewers- man, ib. ; Sir John Howard at the Tabard, ib. ; Salcote or Capon, Abbot of Hyde, 182 ; meaning of word Tabard, 183 ; change of name to Talbot, 184 ; remarks in Antiquary, ib. ; John and Robert Mabbe, 185, 186 ; Edward Osborne, ib. ; John Preston, 186, 187; Speght, 186; Hubert Hall, 187; Mabbe family and Queen Mab, 187, 188 ; Shakespeare's use of names, 188 ; Isabel Mabbe, ib. ; Shakespeare's lodging in Southwark, ib. ; his bust, ib. ; Preston's will, 189; Philip Ber- INDEX 435 nard, ib. ; William Garfoote, ib. ; Abbot of Hyde's lodging turned into brewhouse, ib. ; view in Urry's Chaucer, 1 90 ; great Southwark fire, igi ; Builder, G. Corner, and Hudson Turner on Tabard, ib. ; election, 191, 192 ; Thomas Wright, 192, 193; Nell Gwynn, 192 ; carriers, ib. ; games and tippling, 193; Epicure^ s Almanack, ib. ; show, 1 94 ; play of Mary White, 194-196; accounts by Saunders, Waller, and Oilier, 1 96, 197 ; sign, 1 98 ; advertisement of sale, ib.\ ground-plan, 199; J. E. Gardner and E. M. Ward. 199, 200; sales, 200; destruc- tion, 201 ; illustrations, ib. Tabernacle, Metropolitan, 94 Tapster, 26 Tate, Nahum, 54, 257 Taverns, London, 13 Tayler's Rents, 335 Taylor, John, the Water Poet, 22, 35, 52, 86, 88, 123, 124, 142, 143, 157, 192, 208, 212, 271, 276, 278, 282, 287, 293, 296, 297, 315, 330, 336, 338, 352, 391 Tennis court, 243 ; tenys plays, 121 , Thames, River, 39, 46-48 ; water, 46-48, 82 ; wherries, 322, 323 Thatched House, Bankside, 338 Thomas a Watering, St., 125, 180, 388, 391-393 Thomas's Hospital, St., 3, 42, 43, no, 112, 116, 118, 119, 152-154, 272, 273, 275, 279, 29s Thomas's Street,St.,formerly Thieves' Lane, 361 Thomas's Tents, St., 150 Thrale, Henry, son of Ralph, 66 ; somewhat of a speculator, 68 ; Borough Waterworks, ib. ; sheriff of Surrey and Member for South- wark, 69 ; connection with Dr. Johnson, 70; hospitality, 70, /i ! Gordon Riots, 71 ; house in Gros- venor Square, ib.; his friends, 72 ; death, 73 ; sale of Brewery, ib. Thrale, Mrs., 69-75 ; Mrs. Piozzi, 269 Thrale, Ralph, 66 Three Brewers, 218 Three Brushes or Holy Water Sprinklers, within Chequer Court, 103 ; various owners, 104 ; Bellamy, host, in a trial, 105 Three Cows, 294 Three Cranes, 83, 218; Three Crane Yard, 158 Three Crown Coffee-house, 204 Three Crown Court or Square, 152, 204, 416 Three Crown Inn, 416, 417 Three Cups, 2 1 8 Three Hats, Tooley Street, 2 1 8 Three Hats, Islington, 370 Three Horse Shoes, 259 Three Mariners, 143 Three Swans, 2 1 8 Three Tuns Alley, Bankside, 328 Three Tuns, Bermondsey, 2 1 7 Three Tuns, east side of High Street ; frequented by cricketers, 210; formerly the Bull or Black Bull, 213; owned by Sir Francis Whitehouse, ib. ; Cock and Hoop yard, ib. ; club at Three Tuns, ib. ; Windmill Alley, 214; sessions, ib. ; Epicure's Almanack, 215; radical meetings, 215, 216; George Corner, 217; Edward Alleyn, 300 Three Tun Alley, west side of High Street, formerly Bull Ring Alley, now Brent's Court, 344 Tighton's Rents, 335 Timbs, John, 106, 112, 124, 260, 327 Tooke, Home, 215 Toll Acre, 384, 385 Town hall ; on site of St. Margaret's church, 155, 203; rebuilt, ib. ; 436 INDEX picture in Wilkinson, ib. ; again rebuilt, ib. ; view by Shepherd, 2.04 ; site in 1888, 124, 204, 214, 271, 289 Trade tokens ; their use, 1 7 ; early trade tokens, 1 8 ; demand for them, ib. ; Harington farthings, ib. ; Evelyn on trade tokens, ib. ; Po.irevin de Rocheford on, 1 9 ; collecting of, ib. ; 'On Tick,' origin of expression, ib. ; Trade tokens, prohibitions of, 20 ; seventeenth century trade token, period of issue of, ib. ; Anchor, Pickle Herring, 32 ; Anchor, Maid Lane, 65 ; Bakers' Arms, 32; Beacon, 118; Bear (2), 312; Bear and Ragged Staff (2), 334 ; Bell, Bear Alley, 315; Bell, High Street, 293 ; Bermondsey Spa Gardens, 395 ; Boar's Head, 1 14 ; Bull Head, 298 ; Catherine Wheel (2), 281; Chequers, 103; Cock, 257 ; Cock in Hoop, 213 ; Cross Keys, 205 ; Dog and Duck, 321 ; Duke of Suffolk's Head, 120; Dyers' Arms, 316; Elephant and Castle, 32 ; George (2), 157; Harrow, 260 ; King's Bench Prison, 54 ; King's Head, Glean Alley, 127 ; King's Head, High Street, 123; King's Head, Tooley Street, 127; King's Head and Three Hats, Blackman Street, 127 ; Lion and Lamb, 17 ; Music House, 367 ; Ram's Head (2), 86 ; Red Hart, 327 ; Red Lion, 87 ; Restoration, 367 ; sailing boat, 32; Spur, 221; Swan with two Necks, 301 ; Three Brushes, 104; Three Hats, Nag's Head Alley, 224; Three Swans, 218; We Three, 218; White Bear, 1 9 ; White Swan (2), 247 ; Wood- mongers' Arms, 32 Tree, Maria, 376 Trelawney, Sir Harry, 61 Trinity Square and Street, 345 Tumbledown Dick, Mint marriage, 259; club, 26; adventures, 260; Timbs on, ib. Turner, T. Hudson, 4, 165, 191 Two Brewers, Axe Yard, 218 Two Brewers, St. Thomas's Street, 219 Typhyle, 27 Underground passage, 93 Unicorn, Bankside, 335, 341, 343, 347 ; belonged to Henslowe and Alleyn, 333 ; and to Addison, 335, 342, 343, 347 Unicorn, Blackman Street ; old ground - plan, 344 ; originally a brewhouse, ib. ; tenements built on the premises, 345; memoranda of leases, 345, 346; Strype's description, 347 ; old houses on site, 347 ; mentioned in Harleian manuscript, 412 Unicorn, High Street, belonged to John Scraggs, 279, 343 Unicorn Alley, Montague Close, 343 Union Hall, 289 Union Road. See Horsemonger Lane Union Street, 288 Urry, John, 15, 184, 190 Vade Mecunt for Malt worms, 274, 31S, 348 Value of Money, 176, 405 Van den Wyngaerde, 265 Victoria theatre, 194 Vine, 52, 327 Vintners' Company, 6 Wadsworth family, 60, 61 Waggon travelling, Fynes Moryson on, 4 ; Smollett on, 22 ; Stanley Harris on, 22, 23 Waller, Mr., 147, 197, 209 Walnut Tree Inn, 88-91 - INDEX 437 Walnut Tree Lane or Alley. See Carter Lane Ward, Ned, 213, 260 Warm Harbour, 263 Warrenne, De, 89, 99, 385 Water-house on London Bridge, 47, 48 Waterman, Sir George, 229 Waterman's Arms, 394 Waters, Mr., 206 Waverley, Abbot of, 122 Waverley House, 7, 122, 292, 293 Way, Mr., 121, 125, 171, 256 Waynflete, Bishop of Winchester, III, 133, 139-141 Weblyng family, 42, 44 We Three, 2 1 8 Welsh Trooper, 75 Welshaw, John, 32 Wesley, John, 71, 248, 274 Westray, Richard, 205 White, George, vintner at the Globe, 326 White Hart, 17, 33, 88; badge of Richard IL, 128; Fairholt's draw- ing, 129 ; great size, 130 ; Paston Letters, 131 ; Jack Cade's head- quarters, ib. ; Hall's Chronicles, ib. ; Chronicle of Grey Friars, ib. ; Fastolfc's servant Payne, 132; Cade and Waynflete, 133 ; nature of insurrection, 133, 134; Sir John Fastolfe and Falstaff, 134- 1 42 ; Thomas Cromwell at the White Hart, 142 ; Sheffield iron stored there, ib. ; John Taylor's lines, ib.; tippling, 143; carriers, ib. ; soldiers, ib. ; fire and rebuild- ing, 144; laystall, 144, 260; Strype, ib. ; notable coaching inn, 145; Charles Dickens's description, 146; Waller, 147; sign, 148; illustrations, ib. ; modern tavern, ib. ; plays at inns, 232 White Hind, 149 White Horse, early mention, 94 ; apocryphal crypt, 95 ; carriers' stables, sale, 96 ; illustrations, 97 White Lion Prison, 102, 271, 272 White Lion tenement, 1 01-103 White Swan ; very old inn, 247 ; two trade tokens, 248 ; formation of Great Dover Street, ib. \ flogging at cart's tail, 249 Widflete, 350 Wilkinson's Lotidina Illustrata, 91, 93, 96, 203, 245, 318, 357, 360, 382 William of Worcester, 32, 36, 37, 138, 139 Wiltshire, Count of, 33 Winchester, Bishops of, 46, 1 19, 233, 321,322,330,335,350,351. See Waynflete Winchester House, 7, 45, 46, 325, 363 Windmill, 16, 357 Windmill Alley, 156, 214, 319, 321 Windsor and Reddin's Wharf, 7 5 Wooden water-pipes, 48 Woodward, John, host of the Bell, 292 Wren, Sir Christopher, 307, 353 Wycherley, WilUam, 311 Wyndesore, Henry, iii, 137, 138 Yarmouth, 36, 37 Yearwood, Richard, M.P. for South- wark, marries mother of John Harvard, 206, 207 ; a Yearwood, landlord of the Dun Horse, 267 Yorkshire Grey, 293 THE END Printed by 'R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh.