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FROM THE LIBRARY OF 
 
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Cornell University Library 
 TX 735.K4 
 
 Fifty lunches, 
 
 3 1924 000 693 857 
 
FIFTY LUNCHES 
 
 ^ 
 
 A. KENNEY-HERBERT 
 
 (" Wyvern ") 
 
 "CORDON ROUGE," AUTHOR OF "FIFTY BREAKFASTS," "FIFTY DINNERS," 
 "COMMON-SENSE COOKERY," ETC. 
 
 EDWARD ARNOLD 
 
 37, BEDFORD STREET. 70, FIFTH AVENUE 
 
 {All rights reserved) 
 
The original of tliis bool< is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000693857 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 I HAVE endeavoured to give in this little handbook 
 recipes for a variety of dishes, including rechauffes of 
 fish, flesh, and fowl, which have not appeared in 
 either of its predecessors, " Fifty Breakfasts," and 
 " Fifty Dinners." These I hope will be found prac- 
 ticable, useful, and satisfactory. I have not attempted 
 to describe pieces inontees for the sideboard — galan- 
 tines, pressed and spiced beef, brawns, raised pies, 
 &c., &c., methods for the preparation of which have 
 been recorded in my larger work, "Common-sense 
 Cookery." Seeing, indeed, that the space available 
 for " Fifty Lunches " was limited, I thought it 
 better to confine myself to the discussion of smaller 
 and more delicate things. It will be found that I 
 have attempted to invite attention to dishes made 
 with eggs and entremets de legumes for the luncheon 
 table, for I think that the excellent opportunities 
 offered by these articles of food are still lost sight of 
 by the English menagere, while we are all too much 
 addicted, by force of habjt, to the consumption of 
 
iv INTRODUCTION. 
 
 meat. And since this has been a distinct feature of 
 " Fifty Lunches," I have not submitted, as in the 
 companion books, menus for abstinence days. Soups 
 were so fully described in " Fifty Dinners " that I 
 have not included them in the suggestions now pre- 
 sented, and as in the case of that little treatise I have 
 left to the taste and judgment of my various readers 
 the alternative of adding a joint of meat or cold piece 
 to their bill of fare if necessary. 
 
 Out-of-door luncheons at cricket matches, picnics, 
 boating parties, and race meetings are specialties in 
 their way which I have not touched upon, neither 
 have I said anything about the contents of the sports- 
 man's basket. The subject may perhaps form an 
 excuse for another little book. But givers of luncheon 
 parties within doors ought to find, I think, some little 
 assistance in " Fifty Lunches." Just one word of 
 advice. Let the menu for such gatherings be as 
 short as possible. Nothing in the way of entertain- 
 ment is less enjoyable than an over- wrought midday 
 meal, dragging its slow length along till the afternoon 
 is almost spent. If the day happen to be warm, and 
 the room at all full, the discussion of a series of good 
 things becomes exceedingly trying to many people, 
 a reunion which should be as light in its effect as 
 possible waxes dull and heavy, and thus the most 
 hospitable intentions are not appreciated. 
 
 A. K.-H. 
 
MENU I. 
 
 (January.') 
 
 COtelettes de iihne a la Oogu6. 
 
 F^toncles k la Cingalese. 
 
 Tapioca k la crdme fouett^e. 
 
 Colombines de jambon. 
 
 I. Lay a hare upon a board, cut it in two behind 
 the shoulders, and remove the hind legs and thighs. 
 Set aside all the portions thus removed 
 for civet, soup, or jugged hare. AH- you Hare cutlets 
 want for the cutlets is the saddle. First ''* '« Goguc. 
 remove the two back fillets from this, and 
 the under fillets. Out of these trim as neatly as you 
 can as many cutlets as the meat will yield half an 
 inch thick, two and a half long, and one and three- 
 quarters across in the broadest part. Some cooks 
 complete the cutlet-like appearance by slipping into 
 each of them a piece of bone, which may be taken 
 from the ribs. Next, lard the meat through — i.e., 
 di'aw the strips of bacon through, not in and out as 
 in ordinary larding, and snip off the ends short with 
 scissors, giving the meat the appearance of being 
 studded with little nails of bacon. When shaped and 
 nicely prepared, lay the cutlets on a dish for the present 
 while you proceed to make a broth with the trimmings 
 and backbones left after the preparation. Chop these 
 up small, and put them into a stewpan with an ounce 
 
i FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 of butter, two ounces of lean of uncooked bacon, 
 two of onions, two of carrot, and half one of celery, 
 all minced small ; season with pepper and salt and 
 a large teaspoonful of mixed dried herbs. Fiy over 
 a low fire till beginning to brown, then moisten 
 with a claret-glassful of chablis. Keep over a low 
 fire until the wine is nearly exhausted, at which time 
 moisten with three gills of warm broth, boil up, simmer 
 for an hour, and strain. An hour before they are 
 wanted dry the cutlets upon a floured cloth, dip them 
 in beaten egg, and roll them in finely sifted, well- 
 pounded white crumbs that have been previously 
 dried in the oven. Let the breading dry thoroughly 
 before you repeat the process, and let that dry also 
 before proceeding to fry the cutlets in boiling clarified 
 suet. When of a rich golden colour they should be 
 drained, dried, and dished. 
 
 The sauce — to be served in a sauce-boat — should 
 be made as follows : — Skim the surface of the broth 
 
 which you strained from the bones, &c., 
 Saiweala jjj^j^g g, roux in a clean stewpan over a 
 
 low fire with half an ounce of butter and 
 half an ounce of flour ; stir in the broth by degrees ; 
 bring to the boil, skim, and pass through a hair sieve. 
 Finish with a tablespoonful of finely minced cooked 
 ham, and half one of orange-peel very finely pared, 
 free from pith, and chopped small. 
 
 2. Nine scallops will do for this dish. First make a 
 pint of fish broth as explained for the whiting creams 
 (Menu ii.), using milk or milk and water for the 
 
CEYLON CURRY OF SCALLOPS. 3 
 
 moistening. Have this ready in a bowl. Now put 
 into an earthenware casserole or stewpan an ounce 
 and a half of butter ; melt this over a 
 low fire, and add four ounces of finely ^J^j-Zops'^''^ 
 minced onion. Fry gently till the onion is 
 soft, but not coloured ; and then put in — previously 
 mixed to a paste with milk in a soup plate while the 
 onions were being cooked — one tablespoonf ul of creme 
 de riz, one teaspoonful of turmeric powder, half a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a saltspoonful of 
 salt. Fry this with the butter and onions for five 
 minutes; then moisten with the broth, add a table- 
 spoonful of ground sweet almonds with two of desic- 
 cated cocoanut, and a tablespoonful of pounded 
 green ginger (procurable at all Stores, and the 
 herbalists at Covent Garden). Bring to the boil, 
 and simmer for half an hour. Now empty the 
 contents of the stewpan upon a large hair sieve, pass 
 the hquid through it, catching up all the pieces 
 of ginger, &c., and return it to the casserole ; bring 
 nearly to the boil, then sUp in the scallops, reduce 
 the heat to simmering, and in twenty minutes the 
 fish will be tender. Take the pan from the fire, 
 stir in the juice of half a lemon and a tablespoonful 
 of cream. If done in a French earthenware casserole 
 ■ the curry had better be served in it, with a napkin or 
 frilled paper pinned round it, a dish of well-boiled 
 rice accompanying. 
 
 Boiling Rice. — Always choose a large vessel for 
 this work : two gallons of water should be allowed 
 for six ounces of rice, a dessert-spoonful of salt and 
 
4 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 the juice of a lemon should be put into it. Do not 
 wet the rice by washing beforehand ; the best Patna 
 is thoroughly refined and requires no washing. 
 When the liquid boils freely thro,W in the dry rice ; 
 maintain the high temperature, stirring now and then 
 with a wooden spoon. Watch the clock, and after 
 ten minutes' boiling begin to test the grains by taking 
 a few out with the spoon and pinching them between 
 the finger and thumb. In twelve or fourteen minutes 
 they ought to be quite tender without pulpiness, the 
 exact time depending upon the size of the grains. 
 When this stage has been reached boiling should 
 be immediately stopped by the throwing in of half 
 a pint or so of cold water. Lift the pan from the 
 fire, empty its contents on a wire sieve, drain off all 
 the water, returning the cooked rice to the hot dry 
 vessel in which it was boiled. Put in a quarter of 
 an ounce of butter to detach grains that may stick 
 to the side of the pan, and work the rice about with 
 a two-pronged steel fork. Shake well, cover with a 
 hot folded napkin (not the lid), and set the pan in 
 front of the fire, or on the most moderate part of 
 the hot-plate upon a " safe-boiling stove mat," giving 
 it a shake every now and then. This drying process 
 should take from eight to ten minutes. Stir about 
 again with the steel fork to loosen the grains, and 
 serve. By following this method failure is impos- 
 sible. 
 
 3. Two tablespoonfuls of the best tapioca should 
 be taken for this, and if uneven in size the large lumps 
 should be lightly pounded in a mortar to get them 
 
COLOM BINES OF HAM. 5 
 
 uniform — the size of a small pea. Soften the tapioca 
 by soaking it for a short time in cold water, strain it 
 off, and put it into a stewpan in a pint of 
 cold milk ; set it over a low fire, warm up Tap'ocawith 
 and simmer gently, stirring every now and cream. 
 then to keep it smooth ; sweeten with a 
 tablespoonful of sifted sugar, and when it is soft draw 
 the pan from the fire and cool it. As this is proceeding 
 beat up four fresh eggs, and stir them by degrees into 
 the cooled tapioca and milk ; set the pan over another 
 containing boiling water, and turn the liquid to a 
 custard. As soon as this issatisfactory flavour it with 
 such flavouring as may be liked — almond, lemon, 
 orange, vanilla, or ratafia — and empty it into a bowl. 
 When cold, stir the custard well, blending finally 
 with it a gill of separately whipped cream ; empty all 
 into a glass dish, scatter the surface over with crushed 
 ratafias or powdered praline, and serve. If preferred, 
 the tapioca custard after being cooled may be dished, 
 and the whipped cream laid lightly on the surface of 
 it. To whip well remember that cream must be very 
 cold. It is clear that a compote of any fruit might 
 be handed round with this dish. 
 
 4. These are little moulds of ham puree masked 
 with chaud-froid sauce, and prettily dished in a circle, 
 with broken jelly garnish. For the ham 
 puree weigh four ounces of lean cooked gfh^m'.^'^^ 
 ham and one of fat ; mince small, pound 
 well, and pass through a hair sieve ; season with 
 pepper, salt, and a pinch of mace, stir in two raw 
 yolks, and half an ounce of cooked mushroom cut 
 
6 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 into small squares ; put the mixture into buttered 
 bouchee-moulds, and steam in the manner described 
 for the cremes in No i, Menu ii. Let them get 
 cold in the moulds, and then turn them out upon 
 a joint dish. During the operation make the chaud- 
 froid masking as follows : — Put two gills of milk on 
 the fire with the well- washed trimmings, stalks, &c., 
 of two ounces of mushrooms, season with salt and 
 pepper, and bring slowly to the boil ; then stir in a 
 quarter of an ounce of soaked gelatine, and simmer, 
 stiiTing well till the gelatine is dissolved, then strain 
 through a hair sieve, and mix with it the yolk of a 
 fresh egg. This will tint the liquid a pale buff. Set 
 it in a cool place, and, as the mixture begins to 
 thicken, take up each of the little moulds of ham 
 with a skewer, and dip it into it ; this will coat them 
 evenly. Dish as described. 
 
MENU II. 
 
 (January.') 
 
 Fetits crimes k la Dieppoise. 
 
 Odtelettes de veau k la Bordelaise. 
 
 Poudiag k, la Turque. 
 
 Bouch6es k la Dauphise. 
 
 I. These can be made of any white fish. I will 
 take a sixpenny whiting. Order it to be sent home 
 as it is. Take the flesh from each side in 
 two fillets, and put them aside separately, creams with 
 Chop up the head, bones, and skin, put shrimp 
 them into a stewpan, moisten with half a 
 pint each of cold milk and water ; season with salt 
 and pepper, bring slowly to the boil over a low fire, 
 then add two ounces of minced onion, half one of 
 celery, a sprig of parsley, and a teaspoonful of dried 
 herbs. Simmer forty-five minutes and strain. Put 
 the strained broth into a saute-p3.n with an upright 
 rim, boil, put in the fillets, reduce to simmering, and 
 as soon as soft take them out, put them into a 
 mortar, and pound them to a paste ; weigh, and for 
 six ounces of whiting allow two ounces of butter 
 or fat of cooked ham, and two ounces of bread 
 panada; mix, and pass all through a wire sieve. 
 Now add to the puree thus obtained two whole eggs 
 and the yolk only of another. Beat well together, 
 season, add a tablespoonful of cream, put the mixture 
 
 7 
 
8 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 into buttered darioles, tap each smartly on a folded 
 cloth laid on the table to cause the filling to be 
 even, and poach very gently about thirty-five minutes. 
 The steaming should be done in this vs^ay : — Choose 
 a roomy stewpan, lay a sheet of paper folded in 
 four at the bottom of it, pour in hot water about 
 an inch deep, set on the fire, and when nearly boiling 
 shp in the darioles ; let boiling begin, but at once 
 reduce to gentle simmering, keeping the pan covered. 
 While this is proceeding, turn the broth in which 
 the fillets were cooked to a sauce, thickening with 
 half an ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour. 
 Bring to the boil, pass through a hair sieve, add three 
 pennyworth of picked shrimps finely minced and a 
 tablespoonful of cream. When the creams are ready 
 turn them out of the moulds, dish in a circle on a 
 hot dish, and mask with the sauce. A pile of cooked 
 fillets of cucumber may be arranged in the centre. 
 This dish may be made of previously cooked fish, 
 but in that case it would be advisable to get a few 
 fish-cuttings to make a broth for the sauce. The 
 creams can also be served cold, masked with the 
 sauce, reduced to such a consistency as to coat them, 
 cucumber or other salading in the centre, dressed with 
 mayonnaise sauce. To get a smooth masking omit the 
 shrimps in making the sauce, and use them in the salad. 
 
 2. Choose six veal cutlets, trim them neatly, and 
 lard them in the ordinary manner. Set them aside 
 while you prepare a satUe- or fricandeau- 
 Veal cutlets pan with a cover, to receive them in this 
 with Borde- ^ -d . . ■. r ■., 
 
 laise sauce, manner : — Butter its surface with an 
 
 ounce and a half of butter, lay over that 
 
ENDIVE PUREE. 9 
 
 three ounces each of finely minced onion, carrot, and 
 turnip, and the peelings and stalks (chopped small) 
 of a quarter of a pound of mushrooms ; season with 
 pepper, salt, and powdered herbs ; fry for five 
 minutes, then add an ounce of meat glaze ; melt this 
 and lay the cutlets on the surface of the vegetables, 
 larded side uppermost. Moisten now with hot broth 
 in sufficient quantity to come level with the surfaces 
 of the cutlets, cover them with a buttered paper, 
 cover the pan, and simmer gently for about an hour 
 and a quarter ; when quite tender take the pan from 
 the fire, remove the cutlets, strain off the broth into 
 a bowl, wipe out the pan, brush off any pieces of 
 vegetable that may adhere to the cutlets, and lay 
 them in the pan again. Have ready melted an 
 ounce of glaze, dilute this with half a gill of the 
 strained broth, push the pan into the oven, and 
 glaze the cutlets by basting them with the melted 
 glaze. When heated through and nicely glazed, 
 arrange the cutlets in a line on a small hot joint 
 dish (silver if possible) garnished with endive puree, 
 and send this sauce round in a boat. Having 
 skimmed off all fat from the broth, take two gills of 
 it, add one gill of good thick tomato puree, boil up, 
 add a teaspoonful of cornflour diluted with broth, 
 skim, strain, and serve. 
 
 Remove the outside leaves from two heads of endive 
 of a good size, wash them well, cut each in four, 
 and plunge the pieces into fast-boiling 
 salted water ; boil for twenty or twenty- ^^^f-f^^ 
 five minutes, drain, " refresh " them with 
 
10 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 a douche of cold water, and, after pressing all mois- 
 ture from them, turn them out on a board and chop 
 them up as small as possible. Melt two ounces of 
 butter in a stewpan, put in the chopped endives, 
 dust over with salt and a pinch of powdered mace, 
 and stir without stopping over a moderate fire until 
 the vegetable has absorbed the butter ; next moisten 
 with half a gill of ci^eam, good white sauce, or milk, 
 stir till well mixed and of a fairly thick consistency, 
 and arrange the fiiree round the cutlets. 
 
 3. Make a pint of coffee custard in this way : — 
 
 Roast four ounces of coffee-berries by moving 
 
 „ „ them about over a low fire in a saute- 
 
 Cojjec 
 
 custard pan, lubricated with half an ounce of 
 
 ^iddinga butter. Boil three-quarters of a pint 
 
 of milk, take it off the fire, empty the 
 
 newly roasted berries into it, and let them thus soak, 
 
 covered up, in a warm place for about an hour. 
 
 Strain, and turn the milk to a custard with four eggs, 
 
 sweetening with an ounce of sugar. Strain this when 
 
 made. Choose a pint border mould with a hollow 
 
 rim, butter it well, line it with crushed ratafias, pour 
 
 in the custard, and steam gently (process given in 
 
 No. i) till firm. Let it get cold in the mould, then 
 
 turn it out, glaze it with diluted apricot jam, fill the 
 
 hollow rim with preserved chei'ries, and send apricot 
 
 sauce in a boat separately : — Put three tablespoonfuls 
 
 of the jam in a gill of water, with a liqueur-glass of 
 
 rum ; boil, pass through a strainer, and let it get cold. 
 
 4. Choose a dozen feoMcAec-moulds, line them with 
 
COFFEE CUSTARD PUDDING A LA TURQUE. ii 
 
 melted aspic jelly about an eighth of an inch thick, 
 keep them on ice, fill them with anchovy cream, and 
 when set tm-n them out ; dish in a circle, and garnish 
 with hard-boiled eggs and cress. For the anchovy 
 cream take four hard-boiled yolks of egg, twelve 
 fillets of anchovy, and two tablespoonfuls of mayon- 
 naise sauce ; pound, and pass all through a hair sieve, 
 add a giU of diluted aspic, and fill the hollows of the 
 lined bouchee-m.o\AdiS. Let this set. 
 
MENU III. 
 
 (January ^ 
 
 (Eufs brouill^s aux queues de crevettea. 
 
 Cdtelettes de mouton en chevreuU. 
 
 Compote de marrons au kirsch. 
 
 Olives farcies k la Boyale. 
 
 I. Half a pint of shrimps nicely picked will be 
 enough -for this. The buttered eggs require great 
 
 care, being but rarely properly done, by 
 Buttered English cooks. The preparation must be 
 IfwimL! creamy, not over-cooked in solid lumps as 
 
 it so often is. The quantity of butter 
 should be accurately weighed ; it should be of the 
 best quality, and put in as by and by directed. Then, 
 be it observed, the dish must not be kept waiting ; it 
 should be served as quickly as a souffle. If cooked 
 over a fast fire it will be lumpy — perhaps leathery ; 
 if too much butter is used it will be greasy. The 
 process must be conducted patiently, if the true con- 
 sistency and smoothness are to be arrived at, in the 
 following manner : — Break five large or six small 
 eggs into a bowl with a saltspoonful of salt and a 
 dust of pepper ; mix them well. Weigh three ounces 
 of butter ; divide this into two equal portions, cutting 
 one of them up into small pieces and putting the 
 other into a stewpan over a low fire. Melt the latter 
 and then pour in the egg mixture, whisk it without 
 
COOKED MARINADE. 13 
 
 stopping till signs of thickening show themselves ; 
 then take a wooden spoon, add the small pieces of 
 butter one by one, and stir the contents of the sauce- 
 pan about unceasingly until the mixture is evenly and 
 lightly set. Now pass in the shrimps with a table- 
 spoonful of cream ; stir together and serve in a 
 legumiere or fireproof china dish, with sippets of 
 nicely fried bread arranged round it. 
 
 2. Out of the best end of a neck of mutton trim 
 
 seven nice cutlets, flatten with a cutlet bat, and lard 
 
 with bacon in the manner explained for 
 
 the hare cutlets in Menu i. Then lav Mutton cut- 
 ,, . ,, ,. , , lets roebuck 
 
 them m an earthenware dish, and covev fashion. 
 
 them with a cooked marinade, cold, made 
 as follows : — Mince up finely three ounces of onion, 
 three of carrot, half one of celery, one of parsley, 
 and one of mixed herbs, or a tablespoonful 
 of the dried ; butter a stewpan with an ^„arinadc. 
 ounce and a half of butter or clarified 
 beef dripping, melt it, and then lay over it the 
 minced vegetables and herbs ; fry till coloured, and 
 then moisten with two gills of warm water and two of 
 vinegar (Maille's French) ; bring to the boil, keep that 
 up for two minutes, add a gill of claret, half an ounce 
 of salt and a quarter of pepper, strain, and keep it in 
 a basin till cold, then take off the fat, and use. This 
 should be done, of course, the day before, and the 
 cutlets should remain in the marinade all night. 
 When to be cooked, drain them from the liquid, 
 wipe them with a di-y cloth, lay them in a deep- 
 sided saiUe-pan, on a bed of vegetables as given for 
 
14 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 No. 2, Menu ii., just cover with boiling broth made 
 from the mutton trimmings, and continue to cook 
 them very gently till tender. Now take them out, 
 trim them, brush them over with melted glaze, and 
 keep them in the mouth of the oven. Take two 
 gills of the broth in which they were cooked, add 
 half its quantity of the marinade, stir this into a 
 roux made with half an ounce of butter and half an 
 ounce of flour, which should be ready in another 
 stewpan, bring to the boil, skim carefully, strain, add 
 a dessert-spoonful of chopped olives, and serve in a 
 sauce-boat. Dress a circle of turned olives round the 
 cutlets, which should be arranged in a line on a flat 
 silver dish, and serve. French beans go well with 
 these cutlets, and poinmes de terre sautSes. 
 
 3. Choose thirty nice chestnuts, take off their 
 
 brown skins, put them into warm water 
 
 Compote of over the fire for a minute or two, and when 
 
 cltcstittits 
 
 with kirsch. getting hot take them out and peel off their 
 
 red skins ; make a pint of weak syrup with 
 
 a pint of water, ten ounces of sugar, and the zest of 
 
 a lemon ; arrange the chestnuts on the surface of a 
 
 roomy saute-pan, pour in the syrup in quantity just 
 
 enough to cover, and simmer gently for twenty 
 
 minutes, then drain them, and arrange them in a 
 
 glass compote-dish ; strain the syrup into a clean pan, 
 
 add a sherry-glass of kirsch with the juice of half 
 
 a lemon, and boil it down till it slightly coats the 
 
 spoon ; cool, pour it over the chestnuts, and set the 
 
 dish in a cold place. Whipped cream, if liked, may 
 
 be laid on the surface to finish with. Care should.be 
 
STUFFED OLIVES A LA ROYALE. 15 
 
 taken to keep the chestnuts whole ; slow cooking 
 will assist this. 
 
 4. First make a custard a la Roy ale : — In a small 
 bowl beat up three fresh eggs, add a gill of milk, 
 two tablespoonfuls of cream and one of 
 grated Parmesan with seasoning ; pour stuffed 
 the mixture into buttered dariole-moulAs, Royale. 
 steam gently till set, let them get cold, 
 hollow out with a scoop a space in the centre of 
 each, slip in an olive farcie, covering the opening 
 with a little wad of the custard scooped out; turn 
 out the moulds, arrange them in a circle, garnish 
 with any nice small salading, and serve. Before 
 using the olives farcies wipe them carefully to get rid 
 of the oil in which they are preserved. 
 
MENU . IV. 
 
 (January.) 
 
 Orlys de merluche. 
 
 Faisan au riz tomato. 
 
 Eclairs au caf6. 
 
 Cremes de fromage. 
 
 I. The first thing to be done in this case is to make 
 the batter, for it must rest at least two hours before 
 being used. Put three and a half ounces 
 haddocl- '~'^ Vienna flour into a bowl, rnake a hollow 
 in its centre, and break into it the yolks 
 only of two eggs, add two tablespoonfuls of salad 
 oil, and a saltspoonful of salt ; mix well, and then 
 stir in by degrees enough lukewarm water to bring 
 the batter to the consistency of thick cream, coating 
 the spoon when lifted from it with a smooth film the 
 eighth of an inch thick. Set the bowl aside now, 
 covered with a cloth, in the ordinai-y warmish 
 temperature of the kitchen. Db not put it into a 
 cold larder. When to be used stir into it the white 
 of one of the eggs whipped to a froth. 
 
 Prepare the fish next, having procured a nice 
 haddock. First take off the flesh on both sides of 
 the fish, and put the two fillets thus procured upon 
 a wooden slab ; with a sharp knife divide these into 
 smaller fillets about two inches long, half an inch 
 thick, and an inch wide. Lay these out upon a joint 
 
PHEASANT WITH RICE. 17 
 
 dish, sprinkle them with lemon-juice or good French 
 vinegar, and dust them over with salt and pepper 
 and powdered herbs. Next, with all the bones, head, 
 and trimmings make two gills of broth for the sauce 
 (No. I, Menu ii.), a sherry-glass of chablis or sauterne 
 being used if possible in the decoction. Strain this 
 when ready, thicken it, add a gill of tomato puree or 
 a tablespoonful of conserve ; boil up, skim, reduce till 
 of a nice consistency and pass through the hair sieve, 
 finishing with a tablespoonful of cream. Serve this in 
 a sauce-boat. As for the fillets, lift them from the 
 marinade, lay them on a clean floured cloth, dry them 
 thoroughly, finish the batter with the white of egg 
 as already described, dip the fillets into the batter, 
 and pass them one by one into a deep bath of boiling 
 fat. As soon as a nice golden colour, take them out, 
 lay them on a wire drainer over folded paper in 
 front of the fire, and when drained and dry, sprinkle 
 with salt, lay them on a hot napkin on a hot dish, 
 and serve, the sauce accompanying. 
 
 .2. For this the pheasant must be ti-ussed for boil- 
 ing, and it is worth noting that the process is 
 appUcable to birds which are too old for 
 roasting. Set a roomy stewpan on the with tomato- 
 fire, large enough, that is to say, to hold flavoured 
 the pheasant easily. Pour in enough cold " 
 stock, or milk, or milk and water in half and half 
 proportions to eventually cover the bird when it is 
 put in. Bring the liquid to the boil, then plunge in 
 the pheasant, keeping up the high temperature for 
 five minutes, then add four ounces of onion, two of 
 
 3 
 
i8 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 carrot, one of celery, one of parsley, and a bouquet 
 garni, with half an ounce of salt and a dozen pepper- 
 corns. This addition will stop the boiling, after 
 which ease the heat under the vessel to gentle 
 simmering, and on no account permit this to be 
 exceeded. The tenderness of the pheasant will 
 entirely depend upon the slowness of the cooking. 
 An hour and a half should effect this. Then strain 
 off the broth, wrap the bird in a hot cloth and put 
 it back into the hot empty pan, closely covered, to 
 keep hot, while you turn a pint of the boilings to 
 a sauce, thickening with an ounce of butter and one 
 of flour, bringing it to the boil, and passing it through 
 a hair sieve. 
 
 Boil separately, during the last half hour of sim- 
 mering the pheasant, eight ounces of the best 
 
 Patna rice (see No. 2, Menu i.), and after 
 Tomato- returning it to the pan as therein directed 
 rlce°"'' stir in two ounces of fresh butter, and 
 
 half a pint of hot tomato puree; mix with 
 a two-pronged fork, and finally shake in two ounces 
 of grated Parmesan cheese. Now take a hot joint- 
 dish, place the pheasant in the centre of it, mask it 
 with as much of the sauce as is necessary, sending 
 the remainder in a boat, and arrange the rice all 
 round it. If liked, the bird can be cut up, the pieces 
 being laid neatly on the dish, the masking poured 
 over them, and the circle of rice round the whole. 
 
 3. Put two gills of water into a casserole or stew- 
 pan over a low fire with a pinch of salt, half an 
 
ECLAIRS WITH COFFEE. 19 
 
 ounce of sugar, and four ounces of butter ; as soon as 
 the last is melted take the pan from the fire, and stir 
 in by degrees eight ounces of flour. Mix 
 well to get rid of lumps, replace the ^'^'""'^ "'^'^ 
 pan on the fire, keeping it low, and work 
 the paste vigorously until it leaves the side of the 
 stewpan. Take it off the fire, let it get half cold, 
 and then add three eggs one by one, working them 
 well into the paste, and the zest of an orange or 
 lemon. Now put the paste into a forcing-bag -v^rith 
 a rather wide plain pipe, and squeeze it out in four 
 and a half inch lengths upon a buttered baking-tin 
 lined with buttered paper, glaze over with beaten 
 egg and push the tin into a moderate oven ; watch 
 them, and when nicely risen, take out the tin, pass 
 the blade of a knife under the eclairs to detach 
 them, lay them on a wire dirainer, and put them 
 into the oven, now warm, with the door ajar to 
 dry. Let them get cold, then open them gently 
 on the sides, and squeeze in cream enough to 
 fill their cavities, brush over all with thin apricot 
 glaze, and mask the surfaces with cofEee icing made 
 in this way : — Put a gill of syrup into a bowl, mix 
 with half a gill of very strong coffee, then stir in by 
 degrees glazing sugar sufficient to bring it to the 
 consistency of thick mayonnaise. Use as directed. 
 In laying on the glaze be careful to keep it smooth ; 
 the blade of a palette-knife dipped in hot water will 
 enable the cook to effect this. 
 
 4. Make half a pint of custard with three whole 
 eggs, stir in half an ounce of soaked gelatine ; when 
 
20 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 dissolved, cool, and whip, adding two ounces of 
 grated Parmesan and a gill of whipped cream with 
 
 one tablespoonful of chopped ham and 
 Little cheese one of chopped cooked macaroni. Fill 
 Milanaise. little darioles with the mixture, set them 
 
 on ice or in a cold place ; turn out when 
 firm, and serve prettily dished with broken aspic 
 and picked leaves of endive as garnish. Mayonnaise 
 sauce may accompany. 
 
MENU V. 
 
 {Febniaty.) 
 
 Filets de baxbue k la Bonnefoy. 
 
 Foulet k la Toscane. 
 
 FroflteroUes au chocolat. 
 
 (Eufs k la Russe. 
 
 1. Out of a small brill make six neat fillets. With 
 the skin, bones, and trimmings make a nice broth, 
 about three-quarters of a pint enough ; 
 
 turn this to a sauce, passing it through the ^fUlfiU^ts a 
 hair sieve to get it smooth, add a table- 
 spoonful of finely chopped parsley and a teaspoonful 
 of minced gherkins. Keep this hot in the bain-marie 
 while you bread-crumb and fry the fillets in boiling 
 fat. Drain, and dry these, sprinkle salt over them, 
 dish in a hot dish upon a paper garnished with 
 parsley and lemon, and serve the sauce separately. 
 
 2. This is a useful dish, being negotiable with a 
 cold roast fowl. Begin by cutting up the fowl and 
 taking all the meat in as nice pieces as 
 
 you can from the bones. Put this in a Chicken or 
 dish aside, while you chop up all the xoscane. 
 bones, skin, and trimmings of the bird. 
 Choose a stewpan, put the bones into it, cover them 
 with milk and water, bring slowly to the boil, add 
 four ounces of onion, one of celery, one of parsley. 
 
22 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 a bouquet, and the chopped stalks and peehngs of 
 a quarter of a pound of fresh mushrooms ; add a 
 seasoning of salt and pepper, and simmer for one 
 hour, then strain ; turn the Hquid to a sauce, passing 
 it through the hair sieve, and adding a tablespoonful 
 of cream ; lay the pieces of fowl in this with the 
 mushrooms which .yielded the trimmings, separately 
 fried and cut into' squares, two ounces of cooked 
 macaroni, cut into quarter inch-lengths, and a table- 
 spoonful of coarsely chopped cooked ham. Heat all 
 up gently, and at the last dust over the whole a fine 
 layer of grated Parmesan. Serve as you would a 
 fricassee in an entree-dish, puree de pommes de terre 
 accompanying. 
 
 3. Make the same paste as that described for 
 eclairs (No. 3, Menu iv.), squeeze it out in rounds 
 
 instead of oblongs about the size of a 
 ProfiteroUes racquet ball. Bake in the same way, dry, 
 chocolate. ^nd having made an incision in each fill 
 
 the cavities of the profiterolles with cream. 
 Arrange on a silver dish and accompany them with 
 chocolate sauce in a boat made in this manner : — 
 Dissolve two ounces of unsweetened chocolate in 
 half a pint of water, add half a stick of vanilla or 
 
 a teaspoonful of the essence, two ounces 
 Chocolate gf gifted Sugar, and a squeeze of lemon- 
 
 juice ; stir together till creamy, and serve. 
 If sweetened chocolai a la vanille is used neither sugar 
 nor vanilla will be needed. A tablespoonful of cream 
 is an improvement. Some serve the profiterolles in 
 a dish in the sauce, but this has the effect of making 
 
EGGS A LA RUSSE. 23 
 
 the former sodden. This dish may be served hot or 
 cold. 
 
 4. Break four eggs, separating the yolks from the 
 whites and putting each in separate basins ; mix well 
 without beating, giving each a slight 
 seasoning of salt and white pepper and ^^' f '" 
 a tablespoonful of cream. Next choose a 
 dozen little saucer-shaped bouchee-moulds an inch and 
 a half in diameter, butter them, and three-parts iiU 
 them with the white mixture. Put all the yellow 
 mixture into a buttered shallow fireproof pan (one 
 of the kind sold for small gratins will- do) ; the liquid 
 should be not more than half an inch deep. Now 
 steam each 'of the preparations very gently until set ; 
 then put them aside in the moulds to get cold. To 
 finish, take the small moulds first, and with a 
 vegetable scoop remove enough of the white from 
 the centre of each to form a cavity similar to that 
 left in a hard-boiled egg after removing the yolk, 
 turn the little cups thus formed out- of the moulds, 
 and fill each cavity with a small teaspoonful of fresh 
 caviar, which should be prepared before using with 
 a few drops of lemon-juice and a dusting of Nepaul 
 pepper ; arrange all the little cups of caviar in a 
 circle on a dish, and then turn your attention to the 
 yellow mixture. Out of this stamp as many rings as 
 you have moulds, using two round cutters for the 
 work, the larger one an inch and a half, the smaller 
 an inch in diameter. Drop one of these gently 
 upon the top of each cup, so as to leave the 
 caviar visible in the centre, surrounded by the 
 
24 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 yellow ring. All the remnants of yellow should be 
 finely granulated by being pressed through a wire 
 sieve and used as a carpet in the dish containing the 
 cups. Over all a fine lacewoi'k of garden cress care- 
 fully dried may be scattered. By forming the cups 
 of custard a la Royale blanche you insure uniformity 
 of shape ; the cups formed by an ordinary hard- 
 boiled egg, when cut in halves across, rarely have 
 the cavity in the exact centre, one side being some- 
 times so thin as to be quite brittle. Then the 
 mixture with the cream and seasoning is more 
 delicate than plain egg. 
 
MENU VI. 
 
 (^February.) 
 
 Morue sal^e k la bonne feniine. 
 
 C6telettes de mouton k la Louise. 
 
 Charlotte pralin^e. 
 
 CrouBtadea a la Boh^mienne. 
 
 I. Salt cod can often be procured from the fish- 
 monger very partially salted, and only requiring a 
 short period of soaking. Ordinary salt 
 cod should be steeped in tepid water for ^^^^ '^"^ « 
 six hours, and in cold for six hours, the femme'f 
 water in each case being changed four 
 times. To dress after soaking, put the fish into cold 
 water, and bring to the boil, simmer immediately 
 for five minutes and it will be done. To serve (say 
 two pounds) boil, drain, and mash two pounds of 
 potatoes, moistening with two ounces of butter and 
 a gill of the cod-boilings ; get the puree smooth and 
 creamy by passing it through a wire sieve, finish with a 
 tablespoonful of cream and two of grated Parmesan. 
 This should not be nearly as stiff as mashed potatoes 
 in the English way. With it make a bed upon a 
 very hot dish, lay the cod upon it, and mask the 
 whole with hard-boiled egg sauce, the moistening of 
 which should be the fish-boilings. The dish is im- 
 proved if one-third of the liquid used for cooking the 
 cod be milk. 
 
 25 
 
26 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 2. Choose a nice neck of mutton, divide it into the 
 neatest cutlets you can, trim them, give them a dust 
 of pepper and salt, and place them en 
 altUkwlth marinade during the night. For the garnish 
 spinach you want one ounce of blanched onion, a 
 fa'LoiUsc pound of spinach that has been picked, 
 - " washed well, blanched for five minutes in 
 boiling salted water, and drained of all moisture, one 
 small cabbage lettuce, also blanched and drained, and 
 two tablespoonfuls of butter. Take a quart stewpan, 
 melt the butter at the bottom of it over a low fire ; 
 put into it the onion very finely shredded, fry this 
 gently till it turns a pale yellow, and then add half 
 an ounce of flour, the whole of the spinach and the 
 lettuce also finely cut up. Stir the vegetables about 
 in the melted butter till 'they begin to change 
 colour, and then moisten with a quarter of a pint 
 of good broth ; stir this well, and put in a teaspoon- 
 ful of powdered white sugar, three saltspoonfuls of 
 salt, and a good dusting of black pepper. Add 
 another gill of broth and let the vegetables simmer for 
 about fifteen minutes, stirring them to prevent their 
 catching at the bottom of the pan, till they assume 
 the consistency of a thick puree, when they should be 
 passed thi-ough a wire sieve. Add a tablespoonful of 
 cream and they will be ready to accompany your 
 cutlets. These should be drained from their mari- 
 nade, wiped dry, dipped in melted butter, and grilled 
 over a bright clear fire. Prepare a neat border of 
 pounded rice", fill it with the puree burning hot, and 
 arrange the cutlets round the outside of the circle, 
 with bunches of watercress for garnish. 
 
CHARLOTTE WITH BURNT ALMONDS. 27 
 
 3. Choose a round plain charlotte-mould, five inches 
 in diameter. Buy one and a half dozen savoy biscuits. 
 Make half a pound of Genoise paste, out 
 of which (half an inch thick) cut a round C/tdr/oWc 
 a little larger than the circumference of almonds. 
 the mould. Make a glace royale (or cook's 
 paste) with white of egg and icing sugar, and 
 cut the savoys neatly so that their edges may be 
 straight and clean. One of the rounded ends may 
 be left to form a scalloped edge round the top. Ar- 
 range these one by one round the inside of the mould 
 rounded ends uppermost, sticking them together by 
 brushing their edges with the sticking-paste. When 
 the circle has thus been completed put the mould in 
 the oven (a very moderate one), so that the case you 
 have made may set firmly, and when this has been 
 done turn it out. Next make five ounces of pra- 
 line with three ounces of powdered sugar and two of 
 blanched and chopped almonds ; i.e., melt the sugar 
 over a low fire in a small saucepan, let it turn a nice 
 brown colour, then slip in the almonds, stir well for 
 a minute or two, stopping before the sugar turns too 
 dark a tint, and then pour out the whole at once on 
 to a cold slab. It will harden immediately. When 
 cold, pound this in a mortar, sifting the fine powder 
 and keeping some of the rougher pieces to use when 
 finishing the case. This should be done as follows : 
 Set the case upon the genoise slab, fixing the two 
 together with the glace royale, and tie round the case, 
 about an inch and a half below the top of it, a band 
 of pink or pale-blue satin libbon, finishing it with a 
 bow. Lastly, fill the hollow of the case with whipped 
 
28 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 cream, flavoured with the powdered praline, the 
 rougher pieces being sprinkled over the top of it. 
 For a little mould of this size half a pint of cream 
 will suffice. Keep it very cold before whipping, and 
 pass in the powdered praline at the same time. 
 
 4. For these you will require six open short paste 
 
 cases, which may be baked in oval or round patty- 
 
 , , pans. The paste should be made in this 
 
 Cvou^tctdGS 
 
 with salad way : — Put three ounces of flour upon a 
 alaBohe- pastry-board, make a little well in the 
 centre of it, into that put an ounce and a 
 half of butter and the yolk of one egg ; mix, adding 
 an ounce and a half of grated Parmesan cheese and 
 half a gill of water to complete the paste. Roll this 
 out as thin as possible, butter the patty-pans, line 
 them with it, prick the hollows and fill them with 
 raw rice, bake a pale brown ; cool, empty the cases 
 thus made, and when cold turn them out of the pans. 
 To finish, fill each case with an anchovy salad made 
 in this manner : — Allow two fillets of anchovy for each 
 case, remove the oil from these, and cut them into 
 quarter-inch pieces. Take for each a tablespoonful 
 and a half of finely cut and cooked macedoine of vege- 
 tables (the French preserved is very good). See that 
 this is dry, then sprinkle with tarragon vinegar, mix in 
 the anchovy pieces, finish with just enough mayonnaise 
 sauce to moisten nicely, and arrange the salad in a 
 little pyramid in each case. Broken aspic may be 
 arranged in the dish with the croustades. 
 
MENU VII. 
 
 (February.') 
 
 Tranche de saumon poch^e. 
 
 Carr^ de mouton k la TurcLue. 
 
 Cr^me de macarons au noyeau, 
 
 (Eufs k la Livournaise. 
 
 1. A SLICE of salmon weighing about a pound 
 having been procured, not more than an inch thick, 
 and a pennyworth of iish-cuttings, make 
 
 a pint and a half of broth with the latter S/ice oj 
 at once, strain it, add a glass of chablis, poached. 
 and pour it into an eight-inch saiite-pa,n 
 with an upright rim. Bring to the boil, then put in 
 the salmon; let it boil a minute, then simmer for 
 eight or ten till tender. Drain off all the broth, 
 leaving the salmon in the dry pan, covered with a 
 hot cloth, while you turn half the broth to sauce, a 
 roux of three-quarters of an ounce of butter and the 
 same of flour being ready in a different stewpan. 
 Boil up and skim, passing it rapidly through a hair 
 sieve, and finishing with the yolk of an egg and a 
 squeeze of lemon-juice. Divide the salmon into nice 
 pieces, dish on a small flat silver dish, mask with the 
 sauce, and serve. 
 
 2. A neck of mutton should be got for this. With 
 the scrag and trimmings make a broth, and trim the 
 
30 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 best end neatly as a small joint. The broth should 
 be made the previous day. For the luncheon dish 
 
 put the broth on to boil, then slip in the 
 mutton piece of best end, with four ounces each 
 
 piUXo a la of onion, turnip, and carrot, an ounce 
 urquc. ^^ celery, a bunch of parsley, a bouquet 
 garni, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Simmer 
 now until the meat is tender (about one hour and a 
 half if the fire be kept quite low), then strain off the 
 broth, keep the piece of mutton in the empty pan 
 covered with a hot cloth and with the lid on. 
 Rapidly boil up the broth, adding when boiling 
 six ounces of best Patna rice, proceeding precisely as 
 described in the case of ordinary boiled rice in Menu i. 
 Drain, dry in the same manner, mix into it an ounce 
 and a half of butter and a large teaspoonful of tur- 
 meric powder. This will give the rice a pale yellow 
 tint, and a slight flavour. Now uncover the mutton, 
 divide it into cutlets, lay these in a hot dish overlapping 
 each other, smother them with the rice, and having 
 quickly turned three-quarters of a pint of the broth 
 to a sauce, add a gill of tomato conserve or puree 
 to it and send round in a boat. 
 
 3. Boil three gills of milk, flavouring it with 
 almond essence, let this get cold ; now beat three 
 
 whole eggs and one yolk extra in a bowl. 
 Cream of -(^ith two ounces of sugar, using a whisk, 
 
 'UlClCClYOOItS <~f f tj 7 
 
 with noyeau. ^nd passing in the flavoured milk. Put 
 the bowl over a stewpan containing boil- 
 ing water and stir over the fire until the custard 
 begins to form ; when thick enough to coat the 
 spoon add an ounce of gelatine that has been dis- 
 
. CREAM OF MACAROONS WITH NOYEAU. 31 
 
 solved in hot milk, take the bowl out of the stew- 
 pan, and continue to stir for a few minutes,, adding 
 two ounces of macaroons which have been soaked 
 in milk and pressed through a sieve ; whip all 
 together, add a gill of whipped cream, and a liqueur- 
 glass of noyeau. Line a wetted plain mould with 
 paper, pour in the mixture, set in on ice, and in due 
 course turn the cream out, remove the paper, and 
 serve with a syrup tinted pink with cochineal, and 
 flavoured with noyeau and the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 4. Make a dozen cups with custard a la Royale 
 blanche as in the case of ceufs a la Russe. Make the 
 yellow custard also. Treat the latter in this way : — 
 When cold empty it into a mortar, add an ounce of 
 butter, eight of iillets of anchovies that have been 
 freed fit)m oil, a large dessert-spoonful of finely 
 minced ohves, and a dozen capers ; pound tho- 
 roughly, moisten with a spoonful of cream, arrange 
 the farce in the hollows of the cups, forming it dome- 
 wise above the level of the cups, dust granulated 
 hard-boiled egg over all, and serve as in the case of 
 ceufs a la Russe. 
 
MENU VIII. 
 
 (^February.') 
 
 (Eufs pocli^s k la fermiire. 
 
 Foitrine de veau auz tomates. 
 
 Fommes au kirscli. 
 
 Crimes aux crevettes k la Momay. 
 
 I. For this you will want half a pound of mush- 
 rooms. Peel them and cut off the stalks, put the 
 
 mushrooms aside, chop up the peelings 
 Poached ^^^ stalks, wash and dry them, put half a 
 fermiere. pint of milk in a small stewpan with these 
 
 chopped trimmings and a seasoning of 
 salt and white pepper ; bring to. the boil and simmer 
 for ten minutes, then strain the milk through a fine 
 tamis or hair sieve. Now put half an ounce of butter 
 into the stewpan, after having washed it, set this over 
 a low fire, stir in half an ounce of flour, mix a roux 
 without colouring, then moisten with the strained 
 milk ; bring gently to the boil, put in the peeled 
 mushrooms and simmer them till tender. To finish, 
 choose a silver or china legumiere, make it very hot, 
 take the mushrooms out of the sauce, cut them into 
 nice pieces, arrange them on the dish, pass the sauce 
 through the hair sieve ; heat it up again, stir in a 
 tablespoonful of cream, and pour it over the mush- 
 rooms ; arrange half a dozen poached eggs on the 
 
 surface, and serve. 
 
 32 
 
BREAST OF VEAL WITH TOMATOES. 33 
 
 2. Choose a piece of breast of veal, bone it, spread 
 
 over the surface of the meat a half-inch layer of veal 
 
 stuffing ; roll the meat up, and secure it 
 
 in shape with ties of string or tape. Take Breast of 
 
 'vccil "With 
 africandeau or stewpan large enough to tomatoes. 
 
 hold the roll of veal, put into it two ounces 
 of clarified dripping, melt this over a moderate fire, 
 and then put in, minced quite small, three ounces 
 each of onion and carrot, half one of celery, a dessert- 
 spoonful of parsley cut up, and the same measure of 
 dried herbs in a muslin bag ; fry all together, adding 
 half an ounce of glaze, lay the roll of meat upon the 
 top of the vegetables and fry with them till it is 
 coloured ; now moisten with warm broth made from 
 the bones ; bring to the boil and then simmer till done 
 — about two hours enough. Lastly, take out the meat, 
 remove the strings, lay it on a flat dish made hot to 
 receive it, cover closely ; pass the vegetables and 
 broth through a hair sieve, put the puree thus made 
 over a quick fire, skim off all fat, add a gill of tomato 
 puree or conserve, pour over the veal, and serve with 
 tomatoes, separately cooked, in a ring round the meat, 
 alternated with rolls of crisply cooked bacon. To 
 cook rolls of bacon, lay them, after rolling, in a small 
 baking-tin and put that into the oven ; watch, and 
 when cooked nicely take the tin out, and use the 
 rolls as directed. 
 
 N.B. — In all cases when a boned joint is chosen 
 for luncheon it is highly advisable to prepare it the 
 day before. The bones and trimmings can then be 
 set to make a broth. During the night the meat may 
 be marinaded with advantage. 
 
 4 33 
 
34 
 
 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 3. Here, having procured enough apples for a nice 
 compote — the number will obviously depend upon the 
 
 size of the fruit — ^it will be necessary to 
 fP^^f wife make a pint of weak syrup with powdered 
 
 sugar and water ; ten ounces of sugar will 
 yield the sort of syrup we want with one pint of 
 water. Set this over the fire to simmer, flavour with 
 a liqueur-glass of kirsch, then slip in the apples neatly 
 pared and quartered. Cook gently till the pieces of 
 apples are done, stopping before they break or 
 become pulpy ; drain them with a perforated spoon 
 from the syrup, and lay them on a glass compote-dish. 
 Now put into the syrup two tablespoonfuls of apricot 
 jam, another liqueur-glass of kirsch, a teaspoonful 
 of cornflour, or creme de riz, and the juice of 
 a lemon ; bring to the boil, and stir continually till 
 the consistency attains that of thin treacle, after 
 which cool, and strain it over the pieces of apple ; 
 let the dish become as cold as possible, and serve. 
 Whipped cream may of course be laid over the 
 apples, or cream may be handed separately, accord- 
 ing to taste. 
 
 4. For this little savoury' make a cheese cream 
 (see No. 4, Menu iv.), and fill nine little darioles 
 
 with it by degrees, setting in each dariole, 
 Creams with j^jgQ ^y degrees, as much minced picked 
 
 SltVi'lllvS CI let J <j J IT 
 
 Mornay. shrimps as the cream will dilute nicely. 
 Let the moulds become firm, then turn 
 them out, dish tastefully, and serve. 
 
MENU IX. 
 
 (March.) 
 
 (Eufs k la poisBonni^re. 
 
 Epaule d'agneau aux concombres. 
 
 Macaronade k la Dubois. 
 
 CroHtes aux laitauces. 
 
 1. A NICE way of turning cold cooked fish to 
 account. Required, about a pound of cold cod, 
 turbot, or any white fish ; trim the fish 
 
 into neat pieces, picking out all bones, f^V^'''^ 
 make about half a pint of fish broth and poissonniae. 
 turn it to a sauce. Now choose a silver 
 gratin-dish. or fireproof china baking- dish, arrange 
 the fish in the centre, surrounding it with a circle of 
 hard-boiled eggs cut into halves, with their cut sides 
 uppermost ; mask the whole with the sauce, dust 
 over with grated Parmesan, and set in the oven. As 
 soon as the surface has taken a slight colour the dish 
 can be served. 
 
 2. Bone and roll the shoulder of lamb, seasoning 
 well, and laying a few slices of cooked streaky 
 bacon over the meat before rolling it ; tie it in shape 
 and wrap it in buttered paper ; roast carefully, basting 
 well, and removing the paper during the last seven or 
 eight minutes. When done lay the roll on a hot dish, 
 remove the ties, slice it neatly in quarter-inch slices, 
 
 35 
 
36 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 using a very sharp knife, so that they may overlap 
 each other, brush over them some diluted glaze, and 
 garnish with cucumber fillets that have been sepa- 
 rately simmered in thickened broth, which will form 
 their sauce when dished. 
 
 3. For this you want half a preserved pineapple, 
 a pint of almond-flavoured custard, and a dozen 
 macaroons. Lay the macaroons in a co)w^ote-dish and 
 tipsify them with mai'aschino, cut the pineapple into 
 quarter-inch squares and arrange a layer of them 
 over the macaroons, moisten with the custard (which 
 should be rather thick), sprinkle the surface with the 
 rest of the pineapple, and, if you like, cover with 
 whipped cream. 
 
 4. Make the short paste, recipe for which was 
 given for No. 4, Menu vi., roll it out a quarter-inch 
 thick, and, using a two-inch cutter, stamp it out in 
 rounds ; prick these, lay them on buttered paper on 
 a buttered baking-tin, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When done, take them out, and let them get cold. 
 Complete them in this way, spread them over thinly 
 with green butter, sprinkle over that chopped cooked 
 herring roe and olives, and mask with mayonnaise 
 sauce. Dish nicely garnished with broken aspic, and 
 a small salade cuite in the centre. 
 
MENU X. 
 
 (ilarcJi.} 
 
 Bordure de saumon a la Farmentier. 
 
 Noisettes de mouton a la Soyer. 
 
 CrotXtes k la Normande. 
 
 Salade a la belle alliance. 
 
 1. Take six ounces of cold cooked salmon and 
 pound it in a mortar with two ounces of butter and 
 two of bread panada ; pass all through a 
 
 wire sieve into a bowl ; now stir in two ^°^'^<^^°J 
 whole eggs and the yolk only of another. 
 Work all well together with a wooden spoon, and 
 finish with a tablespoonful of cream. Butter a round 
 pint border mould and fill it with the mixture, steam 
 gently till nicely set, mask with maitre d'' hotel sauce, 
 and fill the centre of the border with small new 
 potatoes moistened with maitre d' hotel butter. 
 
 2. Cut out of the best end of a neck of mutton half 
 
 a dozen noisettes, i.e., neat round-shaped fillets — the 
 
 meaty part of the cutlets only. Put these aside and 
 
 turn all the bones and trimmings to 
 
 broth. This should be done the day be- ^oisMesof 
 - • -1 1 , 1 mutton a la 
 
 fore. On the morning required cook the Soyer. 
 
 noisettes in the manner explained for the 
 
 cutlets in No. 2, Menu ii., i.e.— braise them, using the 
 
 broth aforesaid for their moistening. Dish them in 
 
 37 
 
38 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 the same way, garnished all round with flageolets 
 and this sauce accompanying : — Having skimmed off 
 all the fat from the broth, thicken three gills of it 
 with butter and flour ; boil, skim, pass through the 
 hair sieve, tint it a nice brown with caramel, flavour 
 with a sherry-glass of claret, and garnish with strips 
 of cooked ham and white of egg, and two gherkins 
 chopped small. 
 
 3. Weigh half a pound of Normandy pippins, soak 
 them for a couple of hours in cold water, after which 
 
 drain them, put them in a stewpan with. 
 Cake crusts q^q ygj.y £nely peeled rind of one lemon 
 mande. and one orange, two ounces of powdered 
 
 sugar, a stick of cinnamon, the juice of 
 the lemon and orange, and sufficient claret and water 
 in half-and-half proportions to cover them. Simmer 
 slowly until the pippins are tender but not broken, 
 then drain them and lay them on a dish to get cold. 
 Now add two tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam to the 
 syrup in which the fruit was cooked, bring to the 
 boil, simmer for five minutes and strain through a 
 hair sieve ; return the liquid to the stewpan, and 
 reduce it until it attains the consistency of thickish 
 honey, finish with a sherry-glass of cherry brandy and 
 let it get cold. Now out of a stale madeira cake cut 
 three or four slices half an inch thick, and with a 
 two and a half inch cutter starnp out as many rounds 
 as you have pippins to serve ; fry these lightly in 
 butter just to seize their surfaces, and let them get 
 cold. Arrange your dish finally as follows : — First 
 place a circle of the cake croutes, brush them over 
 
SALADE A LA BELLE ALLIANCE. 39 
 
 with some of the reduced syrup ; place a pippin on 
 each, mask them all with the rest of the syrup, and 
 serve with Devonshire cream, which, if you like, may 
 be squeezed through a forcing bag in little cones 
 between each pippin, or in the centre of the dish. 
 
 4. This kind of salad makes a nice luncheon 
 savoury : — Take from four to six ounces of cold 
 cooked chicken and from two to three 
 (half the weight) of cold cooked tongue ; ^^j?'^^,f- '" 
 cut both meats into julienne-like strips, ance. 
 open a small (the smallest) tin of pate de 
 foie gras, melt off the fat, wipe the pate, and cut it up 
 into slices also ; boil, and set to get cold a quarter 
 bundle of seakale ; cut the vegetable into strips, using 
 a silver dessert-knife ; now take a silver or china 
 legumiere, make a bed at the bottom of it with some 
 of the seakale, over that arrange a layer of mixed 
 meats, then more seakale, sprinkling over each layer 
 a seasoning of pepper and salt ; finish the arrange- 
 ment in dome shape, with strips of seakale outside, 
 and moisten with mayonnaise sauce, keeping the 
 whole as cold as possible ; garnish round the base of 
 the dome with hard-boiled eggs in halves, turned 
 olives, and little heaps of broken jelly. 
 
MENU XI. 
 
 {March.) , 
 
 Merlans k la maltre d'hdtel. 
 
 Poulet en pilao. 
 
 Fain de marrons. 
 
 Canapes au jambon. 
 
 I. Buy three medium-sized whitings as they are, 
 that is to say, not skinned and twisted round by the 
 iishmonger. Remove the flesh in fillets. 
 Whiting a la one from each side of the fish, retaining 
 d'hotcl. ^hs skin. With the heads and bones make 
 
 a pint of broth, moistening with milk and 
 water in half-and-half proportions (see No. i. Menu ii.). 
 Choose a gralin-dish or fireproof china baking-dish, 
 butter it, sprinkle over the butter a tablespoonful of 
 finely minced parsley, lay the whiting fillets in a line 
 upon this bed, brush melted butter over their upper 
 surfaces and sprinkle with minced parsley, shake a 
 few drops of lemon-juice over them also, and pour 
 three tablespoonfuls, of the broth round them. A 
 quarter of an hour before luncheon push the dish 
 into the Dutch oven, bake for eight or ten minutes 
 before the fire, turning the dish round once, and 
 basting once or twice during the cooking. Serve in 
 the dish laid upon another with a napkin folded upon 
 it. During the baking turn the remainder of the 
 
 broth to a sauce by thickening it with half an ounce 
 
 40 
 
PILAO OF FOWL. 41 
 
 each of butter and flour, and finishing it with a table- 
 spoonful of minced parsley and a squeeze of lemon- 
 juice. Pour this over the fillets before serving. 
 
 2. Prepare and cook the fowl precisely as explained 
 for faisan au riz, Menu iv., and boil the rice in the 
 broth in the same way. Those who like 
 
 a highly spiced pilSo must give directions fy^° °^ 
 accordingly, the spice being stirred in 
 with the broth. The rice may be tinted pale yellow 
 with turmeric powder, as directed for riz a la Turqtie, 
 Menu vii., but that is a matter of taste also. Dish 
 the bird smothered with the rice, and garnished as 
 follows : — A circle of hard-boiled eggs in quarters all 
 round the base of the mound of rice, and a sprinkling 
 of cardamom powder over the rice, while pistachio 
 nuts or almonds lightly fried in butter with an equal 
 quantity of sultana raisins (two ounces of each) should 
 be scattered over the whole ; fry the raisins and nuts 
 in butter over a very low fire, or they will be hard. 
 In India the cook also adds rings of fried shallots ; 
 these must be sliced finely lengthwise, and tossed 
 in butter till dry. About three ounces should be 
 enough. All the garnish should be ready before the 
 boiling of the rice, for the dishing should be as expe- 
 ditious as possible ; a little delay has the effect of 
 making the rice greasy. — N.B. The broth in which 
 the rice was boiled may be used for a thick white soup, 
 like lait d'amandes, or creme d'orge. 
 
 3. Remove the outer skin of a dozen large chest-, 
 nuts, scald them to facilitate the removal of the 
 
42 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 inner skin, then lay them in a stewpan just covered 
 with milk flavoured with vanilla. Simmer slowly 
 
 until the chestnuts are soft and most 
 Slfe. °f ^^^ "lil^ absorbed, then rub the whole 
 
 through a hair sieve. You ought now 
 to have half a pint measure of puree ; sweeten this 
 with an ounce of sugar, flavour with two tablespoon- 
 fuls of kirsch or any liqueur that may be available. 
 Pass in half a pint of vanilla-flavoured custard, in 
 which an ounce of gelatine has been dissolved, and 
 as the mixture cools, whip it well, finishing with a 
 gill of whipped cream. Have ready a pint and a 
 half plain mould lined with wetted paper, pour in 
 the cream, and set the mould in ice. Serve with a 
 gill of syrup tinted pink with cochineal flavoured with 
 lemon-juice and a glass of the liqueur used in the puree. 
 
 4. Make nine round biscuits of the savoury short- 
 paste given for No. 4, Menu iv., mixing into the 
 composition a tablespoonful of finely minced lean of 
 cooked ham. Roll out half an inch thick, stamp 
 out the biscuits with a two-inch cutter, bake, and 
 
 let them get cold. Also make nine little 
 collates moulds of cream of ham, using small 
 
 saucer-shaped botichee-raoulds one inch and 
 three-quarters in diameter, and making the cream as 
 explained for the colombines, Menu i. Steam in the 
 same way, let them get cold, then turn them out, and 
 place one on each biscuit, rounded side uppermost, 
 sprinkling finely granulated hard-boiled egg mixed 
 with a dessert-spoonful of finely minced olives over 
 all. Dish tastefully, and serve. 
 
MENU XII. 
 
 (ilarch.) 
 
 (Eufs sur le plat aux tomates. 
 
 EagoUt de lapin k I'lrelandaise. 
 
 Merveilles frites. 
 
 CroHtes a la m^nag^re. 
 
 1. The tomatoes for this dish must not be very 
 
 ripe. Scald them, peel off their skins, cut them in 
 
 quarters, drain them on a wire sieve, then 
 
 mince, and arrange them on a buttered E£i^ ""■ i''-'^ 
 J- ri-i_ i_i- J.1 i disk with 
 
 lireproof dish, enough being taken to tomatoes. 
 
 make an even bed half an inch deep. 
 
 Dust over the bed thus formed a seasoning of pepper, 
 
 salt, and finely sifted herb mixture ; break eggs 
 
 enough for the party, lay them carefully on the 
 
 tomatoes, push the dish into the oven, and cook 
 
 until the eggs are set. Sprinkle grated Parmesan 
 
 over all, garnish with sippets of fried bread, and 
 
 serve. 
 
 2. This uncommon way of dressing rabbits is to be 
 recommended for a change : — Get a pair, take all the 
 meat from the bones in as neat pieces as 
 possible, cutting them afterwards a uniform ^^-f^ rabbits. 
 size as nearly as can be without waste. 
 
 Break up the bones, including the heads, and put 
 them into a stewpan ; cover with cold water and milk 
 
 43 
 
44 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 in half and half proportions, set over a low fire, and 
 bring slowly to the boil, skimming off all scum ; now 
 add a pound and a half of Spanish onions cut in 
 quarters, a seasoning of salt and pepper, and a muslin 
 bag containing a dessert-spoonful of dried sweet herbs. 
 Simmer for a couple of hours, then strain, picking 
 out all the onion, which set aside. Next proceed to 
 cook the meat in this way : — Put the broth on again, 
 and when hot without quite boihng put in the meat 
 immediately, reduce the heat, and simmer veiy gently 
 until nicely done ; then strain off the broth, and put 
 the meat on a plate. Have ready two pounds of 
 well-boiled potatoes ; mash them, moistening with 
 the rabbit broth ; stir in with them the onions which 
 were set aside, and then pass all through a hair sieve 
 into a bowl. Moisten the puree now with enough 
 broth to bring it to the consistence of a thickish 
 cream ; put this into a stewpan, put the meat into 
 it, and stir gently over a moderate fire till hot 
 enough to serve. Now, using a slice, lay the meat 
 upon a hot entree-dish, and mask it entirely with the 
 putce, serving at once. 
 
 3. Dry, sift, and weigh five ounces of the best 
 flour, put it into a bowl, make a hollow in the centre 
 of it, into which break two eggs ; add an ounce of 
 
 sifted sugar, a pinch of salt, two tablespoon- 
 fri'thrs ^^^^ °^ brandy, and two ounces of butter. 
 
 Mix the butter and eggs iirst, then work 
 the flour with them, and the other ingredients, until 
 a nice paste is formed, finishing it with the rasped 
 zest of a lemon. Give it an hour's rest, then roll it 
 
THE HOUSEWIFE'S TOASTS. 
 
 45 
 
 out thinly, cut it into inch ribbons three inches long, 
 have ready a pan of boiling fat, drop the ribbons into 
 it, fry till of a nice golden colour and crisp ; then 
 drain, dry on a wire drainer, dust over with sifted 
 sugar, and serve piled upon a hot napkin, sending 
 round lemon and sugar. 
 
 4. Out of a slice of stale bread a quarter of an inch 
 thick stamp out rounds with a two-inch cutter ; fry 
 these a golden colour, and let them get 
 cold after drying them in the mouth of ^IjJ'fZ'sts. 
 the oven. Prepare a mixture as follows : 
 Put into a mortar two ounces of fresh cream cheese, 
 one ounce of butter, six fillets of anchovies freed from 
 oil, six capers, a teaspoonful of made mustard, and a 
 seasoning of salt and Nepaul pepper ; pound well, 
 moistening with just enough ci'eam to bring the mixture 
 to the consistency of jam, pass it through a hair sieve, 
 spread it on the fried crotltes, smoothing the surfaces 
 with a palette-knife dipped in warm water ; garnish 
 the top of each with an olive farcie, and scatter some 
 well-dried garden cress lightly over all. 
 
MENU XIII. 
 
 {April.) 
 
 Morue sal^e au riz tomato 
 F^t^ de veau chaud. 
 
 Marrons ^tuT^s. 
 Crimes de rbubarbe. 
 
 1. Turn to Menu vi., and prepare a piece of salt 
 
 cod — say one pound and a half — in the manner there 
 
 described. With the boilings make three 
 Saltcoawith ... , it.- i • -j. -it, x 
 
 tomato- g"" of sauce, thickening it with two- 
 
 flavoured thirds of an ounce of butter and an ounce 
 
 "'^' of flour ; stir in one gill of tomato sauce 
 
 to flavour it and a tablespoonful of cream. Boil 
 
 six ounces of rice in the manner explained in 
 
 Menu i., and finish it as given ior faisan au riz, Menu 
 
 iv. Dish the cod in the centre of a hot flat dish, 
 
 arrange a circle of the rice round it, mask the fish 
 
 with some of the sauce, and send the rest round in 
 
 a boat. 
 
 2. Select a small, yet deep, pie-dish large enough 
 to contain a pound and a half of veal, and half a 
 
 pound of ham with adjuncts. Ask the 
 hcrni tie butcher to cut the veal in slices a quarter- 
 inch thick, spread these upon a board and 
 cut as many neat pieces out of them as you can, three 
 and a half inches long and two and a half wide 
 Season the surfaces of these pieces of meat with salt 
 
 4<5 
 
STEWED CHESTNUTS. 47 
 
 pepper, and powdered dried herbs, and lay over 
 each of them a thin sUce of streaky bacon (cooked) 
 slightly smaller than themselves. Roll each up. 
 Now butter the pie-dish, sprinlde over it a nice layer 
 of chopped parsley and chopped cooked mushroom, 
 arrange a layer of the rolled meat upon that, and 
 over it slices of the ham, hard-boiled eggs sliced, 
 and pieces of cooked mushroom, repeat this again 
 with another layer of rolls, &c., filling the pie-dish 
 and covering the surface with thin slices of cooked 
 bacon ; moisten with two gills of really good meat 
 gravy. Lay a nice cover of puff paste over the top 
 and bake it for an hour and a quarter in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 3. Remove the skin of two dozen chestnuts, scald 
 them, and peel off their inner skins. Set them aside. 
 Now put two ounces of minced onion into 
 an earthenware stewpan with one ounce ^f^^^^^ts. 
 of butter ; fry till brown, then stir in an 
 ounce of flour, mix well, and moisten with three gills 
 of good broth and one of claret ; season with pepper, 
 salt, and powdered rosemary, and bring slowly to the 
 boil ; skim, simmer ten minutes, and strain through 
 a hair sieve. Wash out the stewpan, put back the 
 strained sauce, and bring it to the boil ; now sUp in 
 the prepared chestnuts, lower the heat to simmering, 
 and stew gently till they are done. Lastly, take off 
 the stewpan, lift the chestnuts out with a perforated 
 spoon, arrange them on a Ugumiere, stir the yolks 
 of a couple of eggs into the sauce, and pour it over 
 them. 
 
48 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 4. Cut up a pound of rhubarb, and simmer it in 
 just sufficient syrup flavoured with the zest of a lemon 
 to cover it. When it is soft enough to 
 larba'cains. ^u™ to a furde, strain it from the juice, 
 to which add half an ounce of dissolved 
 gelatine, pass all through a hair, sieve adding to the 
 pulp thus obtained a couple of gills of whipped 
 cream ; whip altogether, and fill a dozen wetted 
 darioles with the cream, set them on ice, and wheij , 
 firm turn them out, arrange them in a circle on a 
 pretty dish and serve. The forced rhubarb is the 
 best for this on account of its colour ; the sweetening 
 will, of course, be in the syrup — ten ounces of sugar 
 to a pint, but be careful not to have it too sweet ; a 
 sherry-glass of kirsch is an immense improvement. 
 
MENU XIV. 
 
 CApril.) 
 
 (Eufs poch^s k. la Celestine. 
 
 Tranches de boeuf gratin^es. 
 
 Flageolets k la Romaine. 
 
 Tartelettes amandines. 
 
 1. With a pennyworth of fish- cuttings make a good 
 fish broth — about three gills enough — ^following the 
 rules already given for the process. Strain 
 
 off, and at once proceed to thicken, com- Poached eggs 
 mencing with three-quarters of an ounce Celestine. 
 of butter and the same of flour ; boil up 
 and continue the boiling, stirring attentively all the 
 time, until the sauce has become reduced one-third 
 and coats the spoon when the latter is lifted from 
 it. This point having been reached, stir into the 
 sauce half a pint of picked shrimps which have been 
 cut up into a coarse mince. Have ready six croutes 
 of fried bread, lay them on a ^ra//«-dish slightly 
 buttered, cover each croute with the shrimp sauce, 
 lay a poached egg on the top of that, push the dish 
 into the oven for two or three minutes, and serve as 
 hot as possible. 
 
 2. A good way of serving up en rechauffe cold roast 
 or braised beef. First make a sauce as follows : — 
 Thicken three gills of broth, lending it assistance with 
 
 5 ' « 
 
50 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 an ounce of meat glaze or a cup of strong, gravy 
 drained from the dripping of the roasted joint, and 
 
 flavouring it with the stalks and peelings 
 gmtinfesf'^ of half a pound of mushrooms, bring to 
 
 the boil, simmer for fifteen minutes, and 
 pass the sauce through a hair sieve, catching up the 
 bits of mushroom. Separately fry in butter the 
 peeled mushrooms, cut up into a coarse mince, dust 
 over with flour, and moisten with a gill of the sauce ; 
 keep over a low fire tiU the minced mushroom is 
 cooked and the consistence of the mince nearly that 
 of jam. Now having cut the beef into a series of 
 nice slices, warm them first of all in the remaining 
 sauce, take them out, drain, and lay them on a board, 
 spreading the mushroom mince thinly over their 
 upper surfaces ; then lift them with a slice and 
 arrange them in a line overlapping each other 
 on a gratin-dish, the mushroom-covered sides upper- 
 most ; mask over with the remaining sauce, with 
 which a dessert - spoonful of marsala has been 
 blended, push the dish into the oven to heat 
 thoroughly ; serve garnished with well-made potato 
 pufee. 
 
 3. A vegetable specially dressed instead of a savoury 
 for a change. Blanch half a pound of green 
 
 flageolot beans in boiling salt and water. 
 Flageolet drain them after five minutes' boiling, and 
 Romaine. give them a douche of cold water from 
 
 the tap, drain this off, and let them cool 
 while you fry two ounces of finely minced onion in 
 an ounce of butter over a low fire till turning brown ; 
 
ALMOND TARTLETS. 51 
 
 then put in the beans, turn them about with the 
 butter and onions for a minute, and moisten with 
 warm broth and tomato pmee in equal proportions 
 sufficient to cover them. Simmer now gently till the 
 beans are tender, skimming off the butter as it rises ; 
 lastly, stir in two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan, 
 and serve in a legumiere with short-paste biscuits 
 made as described for No. 4, Menu ix. 
 
 4. Make, or procure, enough puff paste to line half 
 a dozen patty-pans. This having been done, prick 
 and brush over their hollows with apricot 
 glaze. Weigh two ounces of almonds fartlcU. 
 after peeling them, chop them up small, 
 fry gently in butter till a nice brown, then pound 
 in a mortar with two ounces of finely sifted sugar 
 flavoured with a liqueur-glass of noyeau, empty the 
 contents of the mortar into a bowl, and stir in with 
 a wooden spoon the yolk of an egg and two whites, 
 with the zest and juice of a lemon ; mix until the 
 mixture is creamy, then add to it a tablespoonful of 
 minced citron ; with this three parts fill the patties, 
 allowing for rising in the baking, set them on a 
 buttered paper in a buttered baking-tin, dust over 
 with sugar, and bake in a gentle oven. Dust over 
 with sugar again before serving. 
 
MENU XV. 
 {April.) 
 
 CoquUlea i, la Carmelite. 
 
 Pigeons en matelote. 
 
 Oatean en demi-deuiL 
 Darioles k la Dlilanaise. 
 
 I. For this we require six scallop shells, either of 
 silver or china, four ounces of cooked salt or fresh 
 
 cod, two hard-boiled eggs, two fillets of 
 Scallop^ anchovies freed from oil, and two gills of 
 
 Carmelite. ^^^ broth or milk flavoured with anchovy. 
 
 Turn the last to a sauce with half an ounce 
 of butter and half an ounce of flour, bring to the boil, 
 and stir in a tablespoonful of tomato conserve ; mix 
 well, and pass through a hair sieve. Now butter the 
 shells, chop up the cold fish, also the hard-boiled 
 eggs, put the mince into a bowl, season it with salt 
 and white pepper, add a pinch of mace, cut up the 
 fillets of anchovy and mix them with the mince, and 
 then moisten with enough of the sauce to bring the 
 mixture to the consistency of rather fluid jam. Fill 
 the shells with this, smooth their surfaces, shake a 
 canopy of finely sifted raspings over them, dot a few 
 little pieces of butter over them also, and then bake, 
 but do not allow the coquilles to dry up in that 
 process. They should come to table moist and 
 thoroughly hot. 
 
STEWED PIGEONS WITH MUSHROOMS. 53 
 
 2. Get two (or three) Bordeaux pigeons according 
 
 to requirements. Have the Uvers put back into the 
 
 birds after cleaning them. Truss as for 
 
 boiUng, the legs turned inwards. Melt an Stewed 
 
 ° J. , , ° . , i • i -i pigeons with 
 
 ounce ot butter in a stewpan, put mto it mushrooms. 
 
 six ounces of streaky bacon that has been 
 blanched and cut into inch squares ; fry till light 
 brown, then remove the bacon and put it on a plate ; 
 next put the pigeons into the same pan and fry them 
 in the butter and melted bacon fat till they begin to 
 brown, then take them out and set them aside with 
 the bacon. Into the stewpan now stir an ounce of 
 floui", making a rotix with the butter left in it, and 
 moisten, when it is mixed, with a pint of broth ; add 
 the stalks and peelings, chopped small, of half a 
 pound of mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, 
 stir over the fire till boiling, simmer ten minutes, skim, 
 and strain through a pointed strainer. Wash out the 
 stewpan, put the pigeons into it with the strained 
 sauce, a bouquet garni, the pieces of bacon, and a 
 Spanish onion weighing eight ounces cut into quar- 
 ters and blanched beforehand. Simmer twenty-five 
 minutes, add the peeled mushrooms, simmer for 
 ten minutes longer, and all being now done, take out 
 the pigeons, cut them into halves, lay these on a hot 
 dish, remove the bouquet, and after stra:ining it skim 
 the fat off the sauce, garnish the pieces of pigeon 
 with the mushrooms, onions, and bacon, heat up the 
 sauce, pour it over them, and serve. 
 
 3. Put into a bowl six ounces of sifted sugar, four 
 whole eggs, and the zest of a lemon, whip over hot 
 
54 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 water till just warm ; remove the bowl and continue 
 beating the mixture until it is cold and thick, then 
 stir in by degrees four ounces of warm 
 Cake in half sifted flour, and flavour with vanilla. 
 "' Butter a circular border mould having a 
 hollow rim, pour in the mixture, and bake in a 
 moderate oven ; when done turn the cake out, brush 
 it over with apricot glaze, arrange a ring of chocolate 
 creams all round the rim, and send chocolate sauce 
 separately. This can be served either hot or cold, 
 and whipped cream may be put into the hollow 
 centre. For the sauce see No. 3, Menu v. 
 
 4. Make half a pint of custard with a gill and a 
 half of milk and three eggs, have ready an ounce 
 M ,j f and a half of cooked macaroni cut up into 
 macaroni quarter-inch lengths, a tablespoonful of 
 ala tomato conserve, and two tablespoonfuls 
 
 of grated Parmesan or Gruyere. Butter 
 six dariole-raoulds, half fill them with the minced 
 macaroni, without pressing it too closely, stir into the 
 custard the cheese and tomato conserve, season with 
 pepper and salt, and pour the mixture gently into 
 the darioles, filling them three-quarters full. Steam 
 the little moulds as described in No. i. Menu ii. 
 Serve cold, dusted over with grated Parmesan, and 
 garnished with watercress. 
 
MENU XVI. 
 
 (April.) 
 
 C6telettes de saumou poch^es. 
 CarrS d'agneau aux ^pinards. 
 Crfeme Anglalse au praline. 
 CEufs de vanneau en croustades. 
 
 I. For this we want six ounces of cooked salmon, 
 two ounces of butter, and two ounces of bread 
 panada. Put these ingredients into a 
 mortar, poimd well, and pass the whole Cutlets of 
 through a hair sieve into a bowl. Stir in poached. 
 now two whole eggs and the yolk of a 
 third, beat well together, season, and moisten with 
 a tablespoonful of cream. Poach a little bit of this 
 to test its consistency, and if satisfactory butter a 
 dozen cutlet-moulds, fill them with the mixture, 
 tapping them on the table to cause it to fill the 
 moulds properly, and smoothing the surfaces with a 
 palette-knife dipped in hot water. Poach the cutlets 
 in the manner given in No. i, Menu ii., and when 
 they are done take them out ; have ready on a dish a 
 mound of mashed potato well sloped outwards, turn 
 out the cutlets, arrange them round the mound, 
 having masked them with a sauce verte, and fill in 
 the outside of the ring with bunches of watercress. 
 Sauce verte : — Have ready half a pint of fish broth 
 thicken this, colour it a pale green with spinach- 
 
 55 
 
S6 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 greening, reduce till it coats the spoon well, and 
 finish it with finely minced chervil, parsley, and 
 tarragon if procurable, with the squeeze of half a 
 lemon. 
 
 2. Roast the best end of a neck of lamb, dishing in 
 
 this way : — Sever the cutlets from the little joint, 
 
 arrange them upon a hot flat dish over- 
 
 Neckof lapping one another, brush over with 
 lamb with r'x' o j 
 
 spinach. melted glaze, and garnish round the dish 
 with small new potatoes that have been 
 tossed in butter and sprinkled with parsley. The 
 spinach, separately dished, should be cooked in this 
 manner : — Pick the leaves carefully, rejecting all that 
 are bruised and discoloured, wash them very care- 
 fully, drain and plunge them for five minutes into 
 boiling salted water, using plenty of it, and a roomy 
 non-tinned vessel. The moment that the five 
 minutes expire take the pan off the fire, drain the 
 spinach on a large sieve, and refresh it with a good 
 douche of cold water. Press out all moisture, turn 
 the spinach out upon a board and chop it up, then 
 put it into a casserole with two ounces of butter 
 melted and hot, season with pepper, salt, and a 
 pinch of mace, and stir it over a moderate fire for 
 ten minutes without leaving it, thus absorbing all 
 moisture, and finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream 
 or good white sauce. If a stiff consistency be de- 
 sired half an ounce of flour may be mixed with 
 the butter in the second stage of the work. These 
 proportions are worked out for two pounds of 
 spinach. 
 
PLOVERS' EGGS IN CASES. 57 
 
 3. Make a pint of custard with three gills of milk 
 (boiled) and four large or five small eggs, flavour it 
 well with praline, put it into a buttered 
 charlotte-mould lined with buttered paper, Pi-aline 
 and steam gently until firm. The success pudding. 
 of these custard puddings entirely depends 
 
 on the slow steaming, directions for which have been 
 already given. For the making of praline see No. 3, 
 Menu vi. Stir the powder into the custard. 
 
 4. Plovers' eggs are nice of course in any way. 
 All you have to do in this case is to make little short- 
 paste cases with the paste given for No. 4, 
 
 Menu vi. ; roll it out thin, and with it line fl,°'!^l'l '^' 
 as many little oval patty pans two inches 
 long as you have eggs to serve. After baking these 
 and letting them get cold, turn them out of the pans, 
 butter them with green butter, set a shelled hard- 
 boiled plover's egg in the centre of each, and serve 
 on a flat dish prettily garnished with watercress. 
 
MENU XVII. 
 
 (,May.) 
 
 (Eufs brouill^s aux asperges. 
 
 Blanquette de veau k la citoyeune. 
 
 Beignets de riz. 
 
 Boudins k la Napolitalne, 
 
 I. A SMALL bundle of asparagus will meet the 
 
 requirements of this dish. Untie the bundle, wash 
 
 the vegetable, and cut the tender green 
 
 Buttered gjj^jg \^^q quarter-inch lengths ; set these 
 
 eP^s with 
 
 asparagtts. aside ; slice up the stalks into strips, put 
 
 them into a stewpan, cover them with 
 cold milk and water in half-and-half proportions, 
 season with salt, set over a moderate fire, and bring 
 to the boil ; simmer then till as soft as you can get 
 them, after which turn the contents of the pan out 
 upon a hair sieve, pressing as much pulp as you can 
 with the liquid through it. Next with half an ounce 
 of butter and half an ounce of flour make over a low 
 fire a roux at the bottom of the rinsed-out stewpan, 
 moisten with half a pint of the boilings, and 
 bring to the boil, skim, and add the cut-up green 
 ends ; simmer these for twelve minutes, or until 
 they are tender (the time will depend on the fresh- 
 ness, size, and natural tenderness of the asparagus), 
 and when ready pour the whole into a hot legumiere, 
 arrange over the surface a canopy of buttered eggs 
 
 58 
 
BLANQUETTE OF VEAL A LA CITOYENNE. 59 
 
 (No. I, Menu iii.), garnish with sippets of nicely fried 
 bread, and serve. 
 
 2. A pound and a half of cold roast veal, not over- 
 cooked in the first instance, will do for this. Cut the 
 meat into thickish slices, trim these neatly 
 
 (all trimmings will come in for a mince on Blanquette 
 another occasion), dust them over with fuoyenne.'^ 
 flour, and let them remain on a dish while 
 you prepare a sauce to receive them. At the 
 bottom of a stewpan put half an ounce of butter, 
 set over a low fire, and stir in half an ounce of 
 flour, and when well mixed moisten with half a 
 pint of good veal or chicken broth, which may have 
 been made from bones, trimmings, or giblets. To 
 this when it comes to the boil add the stalks and 
 peelings of a quarter of pound of mushrooms, and 
 such seasoning of salt and white pepper as may be 
 necessary. Simmer for fifteen minutes, stirring and 
 skimming off all scum, and then pass the sauce 
 through a hair sieve. Return it to the washed-out 
 stevirpan, mix with it a gill of tomato sauce, put in 
 the pieces of veal, and keep over a very low fire 
 until sufficiently hot to serve, carefully avoiding boil- 
 ing. Serve within a circle of mashe.d potato, and gar- 
 nish the surface with the mushrooms which supplied 
 the peelings, nicely broiled, and little rolls of bacon. 
 
 3. Boil four ounces of rice as already described, 
 drain it, and empty it into a bowl ; stir into it two 
 whole eggs and two yolks that have been beaten 
 up in a gill of warm milk, set this in hot water over 
 
6o FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 the fire till thickened, add two tablespoonfuls of 
 crushed ratafias, and the zest of an orange, sweeten- 
 ing with an ounce and a half of sugar ; 
 fritters when thoroughly blended turn the mix- 
 ture out upon a slab, and with two wooden 
 spoons pat it into a flat cake about three-eighths of an 
 inch thick ; let this rest and it will get firm. When 
 wanted divide the cake into small rounds or ovals, 
 using a cutter for the operation, flour, egg, roll them 
 in very finely pulverised and sifted crushed ratafias, 
 dip into boiling fat a few at a time till golden, drain, 
 dry, and serve on a hot napkin dusted over with 
 sugar. An apricot syrup sauce flavoured with any 
 nice liqueur may accompany. 
 
 4. Make half a pint of custard, using a gill and a 
 half of milk and two whole eggs, season with salt 
 
 and white pepper, and stir in a table- 
 pitmngs" spoonful of grated cheese ; have two 
 
 ounces of spaghetti boiled, cooled, and cut 
 up small ; butter nine daiioles, half fill each loosely 
 with the spaghetti, moisten till three-quarters filled 
 with the cheese custard, and steam the little puddings 
 till set (about fifteen minutes) ; let them get cold, 
 turn them out of their moulds, dish in a circle with a 
 small salad of cooked vegetables and strips of 
 anchovy in the centre, and granulated hard-boiled 
 eggs shaken over the little moulds. If liked hot, 
 turn them out as soon as they are done, and mask 
 with Milaiiaise sauce, to which a tablespoonful of 
 finely minced olives and anchovies may be added as 
 a garnish. 
 
MENU XVIII. 
 
 (.May.) 
 
 Salade de savtmon k la Farmentier. 
 Fetits poulets auz lesiunes nouveauz. 
 Beignets ^ la Somame. 
 Caisses de concombre k la maiini^re. 
 
 1. A POUND and a half of cold cooked salmon 
 
 should be ready for this. Peel off the skin, and cut 
 
 the fish into neat pieces ; lay these out on 
 
 a dish, dust them over with pepper and Sa/mo« 
 
 ,, J . ,, .., ,,.,,. salad with 
 
 salt, and sprinkle with salad oil and vine- cucumber. 
 
 gar. Prepare a garnish of cooked fillets , 
 of potato, or use a dozen small ones the size of a 
 plover's egg for the purpose ; make two gills of 
 mayonnaise sauce, turning it pale green with the 
 juice of the leaves of one bunch of watercress ex- 
 pressed after boiling them for five minutes, draining, 
 cooUng, and drying them, and finishing with a table- 
 spoonful of very finely minced chervil, chives, and 
 tarragon. Arrange the pieces of salmon in a dome 
 in the centre of a flat dish, mask with the sauce, and 
 garnish round with a chain of the potatoes and a 
 few of the nicest leaves of a cos lettuce torn (not cut) 
 into small pieces. 
 
 2. Two spring chickens having been procured, truss 
 them for roasting, rub with a shallot, season with 
 
62 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 salt and powdered rosemary, and cook them a la 
 casserole, as follows : — Choose a large casserole, 
 
 melt three ounces of fresh beef drip- 
 chicken with ping or butter at the bottom of it, put 
 early vege- in the birds, and turn them about in 
 
 the fat over a low fire for ten minutes 
 to seize them without colouring. Now cover and 
 push the casserole into the oven, basting the birds 
 every now and then with gravy or good broth, 
 covering the pan again on each occasion. As 
 soon as done, take them out of the casserole, dish 
 them on a flat dish, skim the fat off the surface of the 
 liquid left in the pan, and pour it over them; gar- 
 nish round with little heaps of separately cooked 
 young carrots, turnips, and peas, the two former 
 cut into little balls with a scoop, new potatoes 
 accompanying. 
 
 3. Soak four ounces of macaroons in milk, the 
 latter being just sufficient to soften them thoroughly, 
 
 and no more. Put this into a bowl, and 
 macawois. ^Tcak in four whole eggs ; mix and add 
 
 an ounce of sugar, the juice of a lemon 
 and the zest, and a tablespoonful of finely minced 
 green citron. Mix to the consistency of paste, spread 
 it out on a slab three-eighths of an inch thick, and 
 set it aside to grow firm. Finish as in the case of 
 No. 3, Menu xvii. 
 
 4. Choose a good-sized cucumber, cut it into two- 
 inch lengths, peel these carefully, and with a tube 
 cutter cut out the seeds and part of the vegetable. 
 
CUCUMBER CASES WITH SHRIMPS. 63 
 
 thus forming a little drum of cucumber ; fill up the 
 
 hollow with a farce made of three ounces 
 
 of pounded shrimps, one of Canada, and Cucumber 
 
 one of butter with seasonmg, and moistened shrimps. 
 
 with a dessert-spoonful of cream, steam, 
 
 and serve cold with mayonnaise sauce and a garnish 
 
 of cress. 
 
MENU XIX. 
 
 (May.) 
 
 Crabe grating 
 
 Mazagran de poulet. 
 
 Groseilles vertes a la cr^me. 
 
 Fetits crimes d'asperges. 
 
 1. Take all the flesh from a medium-sized crab, 
 tear it to shreds with two forks ; put this into a 
 
 , stewpan over a low fire, moisten with a 
 gill of good sauce made upon a fish broth 
 foundation, cut up an ounce and a half of butter into 
 small squares, and add these by degrees, mixing in 
 lastly one-third of the whole bulk of nicely mashed 
 potato ; work all together smoothly, season with salt 
 and pepper, butter a large silver coquille (or six 
 smaller ones), fill it with the mixture, smooth over 
 the surface with a palette-knife dipped in hot water, 
 dust over with grated Parmesan, baste with melted 
 butter, and bake for a few minutes in a moderate 
 oven. Serve, when the surface has slightly browned, 
 laid upon a hot napkin. 
 
 2. Take all the meat from the bones of a cold roast 
 fowl, separating it from skin and sinew ; mince the 
 
 meat and put it aside ; break the bones 
 
 dHckeZ"' °^ "P ^i^^ a chopper, and with the skin, &c., 
 
 make a broth in the manner given for 
 
 No. 2, Menu v., turning it to a sauce in the same way. 
 
 64 
 
LITTLE CREAMS OF ASPARAGUS. 65 
 
 Boil six ounces of rice as described in Menu i., 
 stir into it, when cooked, strained, and returned to 
 the pan, two ounces of butter and a gill of tomato 
 ■puree; arrange this in a circle in a hot entree-dish, 
 and, having meanwhile heated the mince in the 
 sauce, pour it into the hollow centre, sprinkle 
 finely minced cooked ham over the surface, and 
 serve. 
 
 3. This is a variation of gooseberry fool, which is 
 perhaps rather less common. Weigh a pound of 
 picked gooseberries, put them into a 
 stewpan, and moisten with a syrup made •P«''«'« "/ . 
 
 ^OOSG bcTvi cs 
 
 with half a pint of water and eight ounces %,nh cream. 
 of sugar ; stew very gently till the syrup 
 is absorbed and the fruit is reduced to a pulp ; then 
 pass it through a hair sieve into a bowl ; if additional 
 sweetness be liked, additional sugar may now be 
 stirred in, together with a gill of cream. Put this 
 into a glass compote-dish, and cover the surface with 
 whipped cream. 
 
 4. Half a small bundle of asparagus will do for 
 this ; boil and simmer the heads in milk till tender, 
 then strain, let them get cold, cut off the 
 
 green ends in small pieces the size of a ^}f,lZaiul 
 pea, and press as much of the pulp as you 
 can from the stalks through a sieve ; turn the milk in 
 which the asparagus was cooked to a savoury custard, 
 using one egg per gill. Now butter nine darioles, 
 arrange the green ends at the bottom of them to form 
 the tops when they are finally turned out, stir the pulp 
 
 6 
 
66 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 into the custard, fill the moulds three-quarters full, 
 steam gently till set, and when cold turn them out. 
 Arrange them neatly on a flat dish, garnish with 
 broken aspic and garden cress, and serve with a 
 sauce mayonnaise made without mustard, plain red 
 wine vinegar being used instead of tarragon, so as 
 not to interfere with the flavour of the asparagus. 
 
MENU XX. 
 
 (ilfoy.) 
 
 Coquilles de poiaaon frold. 
 Croquettes de boeuf ^ la Viennoiae. 
 
 Pots de cr6me au caf^. 
 Eacalopes de foie graa au mad^re. 
 
 I. Almost any cold cooked fish can be used in 
 this manner, or even mixed fish, such as salmon and 
 whiting, sole and shrimps, or turbot and 
 lobster, enough only being required to fiU, ^°^';'j/^'' '" 
 say, six china scallop shells after making 
 an allowance for the other materials. Cut up the 
 fish in small pieces, and add to it one-third of its 
 bulk of cold cooked mushroom cut into small squares, 
 and for six shells a dessert-spoonful of minced pickled 
 gherkins ; put all into a bowl, and moisten it with a 
 tablespoonful of salad oil and a teaspoonful of tarra- 
 gon vinegar, seasoning with pepper and salt ; leave it 
 thus marinading for a quarter of an hour. Take the 
 mixed mince now out of the bowl, and in another 
 one dress it with mayonnaise sauce ; next fill the 
 scallop shells with the mince, trimming it in a dome, 
 and masking the surface with mayonnaise; decorate 
 the outside of the dome with strips of anchovies, 
 crumbled white and yolk of egg, and garden cress 
 loosely shaken over all. Serve on a flat dish sur- 
 rounded with watercress. 
 
 67 
 
68 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 2. Take three-quarters of a pound of tender un- 
 cooked beef, lean without any fat, skin, or sinew, and 
 
 pass it through the mincing machine ; add 
 ^"'f „ , one-quarter of its bulk of finely minced fat 
 
 CYOQtt-CttCS CI 
 
 la Viennoise. bacon, two Ounces of mushrooms, a table- 
 spoonful of parsley, herbs, and shallot that 
 have been minced and fried together, a seasoning of 
 pepper and salt, and two whole eggs ; work all 
 together, and shape out of it portions the size of a 
 bantam's egg ; roll these on a floured board to dry 
 them, then egg and bread-crumb them. Next plunge 
 them into a pan of boiling fat simply to seize them 
 externally ; drain and dry them, put them in a saute- 
 pan, moisten nearly level with their tops with a 
 rather thin brown sauce to which a gill of tomato 
 puree has been added, and simmer them for three- 
 quarters of an hour over a low fire, basting them 
 throughout the operation ; lift them out with a 
 perforated slice, lay them on a hot flat dish, and 
 strain the sauce over them ; a ring of equally sized 
 new potatoes may be arranged round the margin of 
 the dish. 
 
 3. Flavour a pint of milk with a quarter of a pound 
 of coffee berries, as described for No. 3, Menu ii. 
 
 After an hour's rest, strain and turn this 
 Little to a rich custard with six eggs, strain it 
 
 '}'}lOtt7tCiS of <-j<j / 
 
 coffee cream, through a hair sieve, add a gill of cream 
 to it, put it into little earthenware pots 
 (china cases would do), steam them till set very 
 gently, and let them get cold ; then turn them out, 
 dish and serve with pure cream as a sauce, or with 
 
BROWN CHAUD-FROID GLAZE. 69 
 
 whipped cream sweetened and flavoured with vanilla 
 in a glass dish. 
 
 4. The smallest sized pcite de foie gras will do for 
 this. Open the tin or terrine, as the case may be, 
 melt the fat round the pate, and pour it 
 off ; with a very sharp knife cut the i)dte Escalopes of 
 into slices a quarter-inch thick ; trim and madeira. 
 lay these out on a flat dish, mask them on 
 their upper sides only with brown chaiid-froid glaze 
 flavoured with madeira, and when this has set lift 
 them with a slice, arrange them round a small block 
 of fried bread, fill the space round them with broken 
 aspic, and send dry toast round separately. 
 
 Brown chaud-froid glaze : — Put half a pint of plain 
 brown sauce on the fire ; see that the colour is good 
 — a rich brown ; a few drops of caramel 
 will give this ; stir in a quarter of an ounce Brown 
 of soaked gelatine, dissolve this over a giazc. 
 moderate fire, skimming off all scum ; 
 lastly add a dessert-spoonful of marsala, which in 
 cooking may be substituted for madeira. Pour into 
 a basin. As this cools it will gradually set, and the 
 masking should be done the moment the consistency 
 is such as to coat the spoon well when dipped into 
 it ; it should flow without lumps as honey or treacle 
 does. If the dish with the escalopes be set over 
 crushed ice the setting will be much more rapid. 
 Trim off the portions of glaze which may have over- 
 flowed the edges, and slip the slice under the esca- 
 lopes to dish them. 
 
MENU XXI. 
 
 (Eufs poch^s k la Crispi. 
 
 Cdtelettes d'agneau ^ la Princesse. 
 
 Crotltes au chocolat. 
 
 Boutons rouges k la Bolouaise. 
 
 I. Boil three ounces of spaghetti, return it to the 
 hot pan after draining, season, stir in an ounce of 
 butter and keep it as hot as possible. 
 Poached eggs "wrhile this is boiling prepare a salpicon as 
 follows : — Peel and mince four ounces of 
 mushroom, chop up an ounce of onion, put an ounce 
 of butter into a satite-pan, melt, add the mince, a 
 . tablespoonful of chopped parsley and seasoning. 
 Fry, gently cooking all evenly, putting in with the 
 other things four chickens' livers and half an ounce 
 of glaze. Continue the gentle frying until the livers 
 are quite soft, then empty all upon a wire sieve, and 
 rub the mixture through it. To finish, arrange the 
 spaghetti upon a buttered gratin- or china fireproof 
 dish, at equi-distances make six hollows each large 
 enough to hold a poached egg ; into these first put 
 an allowance of the liver puree, then dust grated 
 Parmesan over, and push the dish into the oven for 
 a minute or two. When hot draw it out, lay a 
 
 poached egg over each hollow, and serve. 
 
 70 
 
TOMATO SAVOURY. 71 
 
 2. The cutlets having been neatly trimmed should 
 be grilled, laid round a mound of spinach and served 
 with this sauce : — Wash, dry, and slice 
 
 up a small cucumber, skin and all, butter f '''"'' '^^^''^^ 
 
 a la 
 
 a stewpan with an ounce of butter, put in Princcsse. 
 the pieces of cucumber and fry them 
 gently over a low fire ; do not let them turn brown, 
 but stir in half an ounce of flour, and when well 
 mixed moisten with just sufficient milk to cover ; 
 bring to the boil, season with salt and pepper, and 
 simmer till the vegetable is soft ; then work it through 
 the hair sieve. Warm up again, finishing with a 
 tablespoonful of cream. This should be pale green, 
 the consistency of rich soubise, and very delicately 
 flavoured with the cucumber. 
 
 3. Cut nine or a dozen neat oval, round, or heart- 
 shaped croutes a quarter-inch thick out of a stale 
 madeira cake, fry them a golden yellow, 
 
 and dry upon a drainer in a slack oven, ^"^J^^ crusts 
 mask with apricot glaze, set aside to late. 
 get cold. Whip half a pint of cream till 
 stiff, flavouring it with vanilla and sweetening it with 
 finely sifted sugar. When ready, arrange this in the 
 centre of a glass compote-dish., lay the croutes round 
 it over-lapping each other, and send round a cold 
 chocolate sauce as described for No. 3, Menu v. 
 
 4. Put an ounce of butter into a stewpan, melt over 
 
 a low fire, and add a dessert-spoonful of finely minced 
 
 onion ; fry gently for five minutes, and 
 
 stir in a pound of ripe tomatoes of a good tomato 
 .... il savoury. 
 
 colour cut up mto small pieces. Keep 
 
72 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 the fire low, stirring to prevent catching, and season- 
 ing with salt, pepper, mace, and finely powdered 
 basil. When the tomatoes have been cooked to a 
 pulp mix in with them three-quarters of an ounce of 
 soaked gelatine, and keep this well stirred until it is 
 thoroughly dissolved. Now pass the whole through 
 a hair sieve, putting the liquid that comes through 
 into a dish in which it can spread and lie a quarter 
 of an inch deep. If set over ice this will soon be- 
 come firm, and can then be stamped out into rounds 
 with an inch and a half cutter ; arrange these for 
 the present on a flat dish while you melt all the 
 pieces and set the liquid again, stamping it out into 
 little rounds the size of a shilling. Now lay over 
 each larger round a little mould of anchovy cream 
 (see No. 4, Menu ii.), put a little tomato button on the 
 top of each, arrange the little savouries on a flat dish 
 with watercress as a garnish, and serve. 
 
MENU XXII. 
 
 (June.) 
 
 Truite saumon^e k la gel^e. 
 
 Pigeons farcis aux petits poia. 
 
 Omelette sucrde aux ^raises. 
 
 Crimes d'artlchauts auz anchois. 
 
 I. Choose a small salmon trout about a pound or 
 a pound and a half in weight, poach very gently in 
 good fish broth and chablis (two-thirds of 
 the former to one of the latter) until ^"Jjf g"/''""' 
 tender, putting in with it a small bunch 
 of tarragon and seasoning. When it is done, strain 
 off the broth, and when free from moisture lay the 
 fish on a flat silver dish. When the broth is cold, 
 pass it through a fine tamis into a clean stewpan, 
 and for three gills put into it three-quarters of an 
 ounce of soaked gelatine, and the whites of two eggs 
 well beaten:,- set over the fire, and stir the whole with 
 a ware whisk till it boils, then take off the stewpan, 
 and let the liquid cool for ten minutes. After this 
 pour it through a well-rinsed piece of flannel. Pour 
 it back, and strain it again until it , is quite clear ; a 
 slight colour may be given by putting a saltspoonful 
 of Liebig's extract into the liquid at the time of the 
 clarifying. Pour the greater part of this out into a 
 dish or pan to the depth of three-eighths of an inch, 
 put the rest in a bowl, and as it begins to set brush 
 
74 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 over .upper side of the fish with it so that it may 
 glisten. When the flat piece of jelly has formed cut 
 a number of triangular pieces out of it, garnish round 
 the fish with them, leaving a space between each for 
 a similarly sized triangle or round of solidified tomato 
 (see No. 4 in the last Menu). Chop up the i-emnants of 
 the jelly, put a little of it over the fish and the rest 
 in the dish round it ; hard-boiled eggs, turned olives, 
 ' sliced gherkins, and mixed salading will complete the 
 adjuncts ; mayonnaise sauce should accompany. 
 
 3. Make a stuffing with three ounces of bread 
 
 crumb soaked in stock or milk, one ounce of cooked 
 
 fat bacon cut into very small pieces, the 
 
 Pigeons livers of the pigeons and one chicken's 
 
 tcivcts ivttlt 
 
 green peas, liver minced, two ounces of chopped 
 
 mushroom, a dessert-spoonful of minced 
 garden herbs, or a teaspoonful of powdered dried 
 herbs, pepper, salt, and one well-beaten egg, mix 
 well, and with this fill the cavities of three nice Bor- 
 deaux pigeons, bard them with bacon, wrap them in 
 buttered paper, and roast briskly for fifteen minutes, 
 basting with melted butter, and removing the cover- 
 ing during the last five. Cut each bird in half with 
 a sharp knife, and lay the halves on crisply fried 
 croutes of bread ; garnish with watercress, and serve 
 with clear gravy and bread sauce, a dish of marrow- 
 fat peas accompanying. 
 
 3. Choose twenty of the best strawberries out of a 
 small basket, see that they are clean, pick, and cut 
 them into four pieces each, marinade these pieces 
 
LITTLE ARTICHOKE CREAMS WITH ANCHOVIES. 75 
 
 in a soup plate with a liqueur-glass of maraschino, 
 squeeze half a lemon over them, and dust them 
 over with finely sifted sugar. With all 
 the remaining strawberries make a puree, Sweet ome- 
 flavouring it with maraschino, sweetening strawberries. 
 it in the same way and passing it through 
 the hair sieve. Make an omelette sti'cree of four eggs 
 as explained in the Appendix, and just when it is 
 ready to serve, spread the marinaded strawberries 
 over the surface, turn it over and dish it, dust it 
 over with sugar, and pour the puree round it ; serve 
 at once. 
 
 4. Boil four good-sized artichokes ; let them get 
 cold ; then detach the leaves one by one, and with a 
 silver dessert-knife scrape the fleshy part 
 of each into a soup plate, pick the chokes articlwlie 
 out of the bottoms and add the latter "'^''^"^^/''' 
 to the scraped pulp. Bruise all with a 
 silver fork, and mix this with a gill and a half of 
 savoury custard ; finish as described for the asparagus 
 creams (No. 4, Menu xix.), serving pure cream as a 
 sauce with the little moulds, and decorating each 
 with two Uttle fillets of anchovy laid crosswise over 
 their tops. 
 
MENU XXIII. 
 
 {June.') 
 
 CBufs brouilles aux legumes 
 Kari de poulet au riz. 
 Foudiug de banaues auz fraises. 
 Canapes k la Moscovite. 
 
 I. The vegetables for this — a macedoine — should be 
 in some variety, young, and separately cooked ; the 
 
 carrots, turnips, and French beans should 
 ^"J^'^^'^f, be cut into squares, the asparagus in little 
 vegetables, pieces the size of the peas. Blanch the 
 
 three former in boiling salted water for 
 five minutes, empty them upon a sieve, drain, and 
 put them into a buttered saute-pan with a gill of 
 water, season them with salt, a pinch of sugar and 
 pepper ; cover and simmer them very gently over a 
 low fire, moving them about occasionally to insure 
 even cooking. Assuming that you have a heaped-up 
 tablespoonful of each variety, you must have half a 
 pint of white sauce ready in a stewpan, and as soon 
 as the vegetables have been simmered sufficiently 
 put them into it, with an equal measure each of 
 cooked peas and cut-up asparagus. Mix two yolks of 
 egg with a coffee-cupful of the sauce and stir it 
 gently into the stewpan ; bring nearly to the boil, 
 watching the vessel carefully, th,en turn out the 
 vegetables and their sauce upon a hot legumicre, 
 
 76 
 
BANANA PUDDING WITH STRAWBERRIES. 77 
 
 covering the surface over with a canopy of buttered 
 eggs made at the moment (see No. i, Menu iii.), and 
 shaking a fine layer of grated Parmesan over it just 
 before serving. 
 
 2. For very full directions for curry-making please 
 see the Appendix. We are still very far from being 
 able to obtain anything worthy of the 
 
 name in London from any public source, C/«c&e« 
 notwithstanding advertisements to the ^J/^f "" 
 contrary. A stew shghtly flavoured with 
 curry powder is not a curry — it is a stew spoilt by 
 ignorance. The recipe for boiling rice will be found 
 in Menui. 
 
 3. Choose four ripe bananas, peel them, scrape off 
 any fibre that may adhere to them, slice them in 
 halves longitudinally, cross-cut the halves 
 
 and divide each quarter thus obtained in pudding 
 two, lengthwise. Lay these pieces out on ^'''' 
 a dish and marinade them with a liqueur- 
 glass of maraschino, the juice of half a lemon and a 
 dusting of sifted sugar. Turn them about occasion- 
 ally. While they are resting, turn half a pint of milk 
 to a custard with four whole eggs, sweetening with 
 two ounces of sugar, and straining it when made 
 through a hair sieve. Take a pint border-mould, 
 butter it well and line it with buttered paper, lay in 
 it the slices of banana crosswise, leaving spaces for 
 the custard to filter through ; when packed pour in 
 the custard, leaving half an inch for rising, and set the 
 mould to steam very gently till set. Let it get cold 
 
78 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 in the mould, then turn it out ; fill the centre with 
 carefully chosen strawberries, pour a gill of straw- 
 berry syrup flavoured with maraschino over all, and 
 send round pure cream as a sauce. 
 
 4. Out of stale bread stamp half a dozen two and 
 
 a quarter inch rounds a quarter-inch thick ; fry them 
 
 a golden yellow in butter, drain, and 
 
 Caviar ^ tj^em. When quite cold butter them 
 
 canapes, ■' ^ 
 
 and spread a layer of fresh caviar over 
 
 them, mask the surfaces of the canapes completely 
 with mayonnaise sauce as cold as possible, and serve 
 on a flat dish garnished with watercress. To priepare 
 the caviar, a few drops of lemon-juice and a sprink- 
 ling of Nepaul pepper are alone necessary. 
 
MENU XXIV. 
 
 COtelettes de saumon k la p^cheur. 
 
 Ragotlt d'agneau au riz. 
 Spaghetti fourr6 aux cbampignons. 
 
 Cr^mc h. rambaasadrioe. 
 
 I. Weigh, after removing the skin and bones, 
 eight ounces of cooked salmon, three ounces of bread 
 panada, and three ounces of butter ; bruise 
 the fish and pound it in a mortar with the Salmon 
 panada, the butter, and the yolk of one .pechcur. 
 egg ; pass this through a hair sieve into a 
 bowl ; now season the puree with salt, pepper, and a 
 pinch of mace, add two whole eggs and a table- 
 spoonful of cream or good white sauce ; butter a 
 dozen cutlet-moulds, and fill them with the mixture, 
 tapping them on the table to shake it well home, and 
 smoothing the surfaces with a palette-knife dipped 
 in hot water. Lay the cutlets in a wide saute-pan or 
 baking-dish upon folded paper, pour boiling water 
 round them to a little less than half their depth, 
 push the pan into the oven, and simmer gently there 
 until they are cooked firmly. Take them out then, 
 let them get cold, when turn them out of their 
 moulds, lay them on a flat dish over ice, mask them 
 with white chaud-froid glaze tinted pink with lobster 
 
 79 
 
8o FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 coral, and, when set, release them, trimming off the 
 glaze which has escaped over the edges, and dish in 
 a circle round a block of fried bread, garnished with 
 parsley, filling round the outside space with broken 
 jelly, hard-boiled eggs, and houtons rouges made as 
 described for No. 4, Menu xxi. 
 
 White chaud-froid glaze : — Make a savoury custard 
 with half a pint of chicken broth for meat, of fish 
 broth or milk for fish, with three yolks, 
 White strain, stir in two tablespoonfuls of aspic 
 
 glaze. jelly melted, stir well, cool, and use. If 
 
 no jelly be available this is a simple make- 
 shift : — Boil two ounces of chopped mushroom in 
 half a pint of milk, mix in a quarter ounce of soaked 
 gelatine, strain off carefully, and stir in the yolk of 
 an egg. Use light-coloured mushrooms, scraping off 
 the dark gills to avoid colouring the sauce. 
 
 2. This can be made of neck cutlets or a shoulder 
 boned and cut into neat fillets, a broth being made 
 of the bones and trimmings at once. The 
 White ragout ragout must be kept quite white. Having 
 rice. trimmed the meat, proceed to blanch it by 
 
 ■ plunging it into boiling water for three 
 minutes. Take it out, put it upon a wire sieve, and 
 let a douche of cold water pass over it from the tap. 
 Have ready in a deep-sided saute or fricandeau-pan 
 a bed of minced turnips, onions; and celery (four 
 ounces of the first and two of the last) and a muslin 
 bag containing a teaspoonful of dried herbs, lay the 
 meat upon this bed and moisten all with the mutton 
 
SPAGHETTI WITH MUSHROOMS. 8i 
 
 broth freed from fat, and milk in half-and-half pro- 
 portions in quantity sufficient to cover well. Keep 
 the pan over a low fire, never allowing the liquid 
 to boil on any account, but simmering very gently, 
 the surface covered with a sheet of paper, until 
 the meat is three-parts done. Now take out the 
 meat and muslin bag and pass the vegetables and 
 the broth through a hair sieve, and, having mixed 
 a rotix in the washed-out pan with half an ounce 
 of butter and half an ounce of flour, stir in by 
 degrees the puree obtained from the vegetables 
 and broth ; bring to the boil, and if too thick add 
 enough broth or milk to correct the mistake ; re- 
 duce the heat under the pan, and put back the 
 meat with three dozen balls of turnip, scooped 
 out of fresh turnips, about the size of large playing 
 marbles ; continue the simmering until the meat 
 and the turnip-balls are , tender, then dish the ragout 
 in this way : — Lay a circle of riz tomate (see No. 2, 
 Menu iv.) round the edge of a hot silver dish, 
 shaping it neatly with a wooden spoon ; arrange the 
 meat in the centre of it, straining over it just enough 
 of the sauce to mask it nicely, lay the turnips like a 
 necklace all round the edge of the meat near the 
 rice, and having given it enrichment with the yolk of 
 an egg, send the rest of the sauce in in a boat. 
 
 3. Peel and cut off the stalks of half a pound of 
 mushrooms, wash the peelings and chop 
 them up with the stalks, boihng them up Spaghetti 
 in half a pint of milk. Strain when the rooms. 
 latter is flavoured, and thicken the milk, 
 cooking therein the mushrooms themselves, cut 
 
 7 
 
82 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 into largish squares, and seasoning with salt and 
 pepper. Keep this hot in the bain-marie while you 
 boil and strain four ounces of spaghetti, stirring into 
 it at once, while hot, an ounce of butter and two of 
 grated Parmesan. With this line a buttered pie-dish 
 or fireproof china legumiere, leaving a hollow in the 
 centre, into which put the mushrooms, covering the 
 surface with the remaining spaghetti ; smooth over 
 the surface, dust it over with grated Parmesan, dot 
 it over with bits of butter, and push into the oven 
 till thoroughly hot and the surface has taken colour. 
 Serve on a neatly folded napkin. 
 
 4. Put into a stewpan three gills of milk, three 
 ounces of sifted sugar, and the zest of a lemon ; set on 
 
 the fire, bring to the boil, stirring in three- 
 Ambassa- quarters of an ounce of soaked gelatine ; 
 pudding. cool a little and empty the milk into a basin 
 
 in which six yolks of eggs, freed from 
 whites, have been broken, place the bowl over a pan 
 containing boiling water, and custardise its contents, 
 stirring gently during the process, pass this through 
 a hair sieve, and as it cools flavour it with a liqueur- 
 glass of kirsch and whip it to a froth, passing in by 
 degrees as you do so a gill of stiffly whipped cream. 
 Next set in ice a plain charlotte-mould (pint and a 
 half) ; having lined it with wetted paper, lay over the 
 bottom of it a layer of ripe strawberries that have 
 been marinaded with kirsch, pour in enough of the 
 cream to set them, then arrange another layer, setting 
 that, and continuing the operation until the mould is 
 packed. When firm, dip the mould in a basin of hot 
 
AMBASSADRESS' PUDDING. 83 
 
 water, wipe the bottom of it with a clean dry cloth, 
 and turn out the pudding, setting it on a glass dish, 
 and masking it with a rich strawberry syrup flavoured 
 witli kirsch and lemon- juice. 
 
MENU XXV. 
 
 (July.-) 
 
 Filets de sole 4 la- Bercy. 
 
 Cdtelettes d'agneau a la Hurillo. 
 
 Fetits pois h. la C^cile. 
 
 Croustades k la SibyUe. 
 
 I. It is essential for this dish that there should be 
 
 a pint and a half of very strong fish broth to work 
 
 upon- as a basis. Make this, then, as de- 
 
 Filletsofsolc scribed for No. i, Menu ii., but moistening 
 
 a la Bercy. .^, . , , , ,r r i. j - 
 
 With a pint and a half of water, and using 
 
 two pennyworth of white fish-cuttings. Strain and 
 keep this ready. Order a sole weighing a pound 
 to be filleted in plain fillets, not rolled, and all the 
 bones, skin, and head sent in with it ; put the latter 
 into the fish broth with a gill of chablis, sauterne, 
 or hock, and boil and simmer' to extract all the 
 flavour. Now choose a ten-inch s«itfc'-pan with 
 an upright rim, scatter over it a finely minced 
 shallot (half an ounce) and an ounce of minced 
 mushroom, lay the fillets of sole on this, and 
 moisten them with sufficient of the broth to cover 
 them, boihng ; put the pan over a low fire to 
 simmer slowly after this for twelve or fourteen 
 minutes, according to the thickness of the fish ; take 
 out the fillets with a slice when they are done and 
 lay them side by side on a hot fireproof dish, cover- 
 
GREEN PEAS A LA CECILE. 85 
 
 ing them with a hot cloth. Strain off the broth in 
 which they wei'e cooked, add the remainder of the 
 broth which was not used, and pass the whole 
 gradually into a stewpan having a mux ready at the 
 bottom of it made of an ounce of butter and an 
 ounce of flour ; mix and then boil fast, and stirring 
 continually until it is reduced to the consistency of 
 thickish batter ; when thus reduced, stir in the juice 
 of half a lemon and an ounce of butter, mask the 
 fillets with it, push them into the oven for five 
 minutes, garnish with parsley and lemon, and serve. 
 
 2. Roast the best end of a neck of lamb, having it 
 done half an hour before the time required ; slice it 
 up at once into cutlets, brush these over 
 
 on one side with melted glaze, and cover La"ib cutlets 
 that with a fine mince of ham and olives, 
 diluted with thick brown sauce to the consistency 
 of jam, shake a layer of grated Parmesan over that 
 and cover with finely sifted raspings, lay all'in a saute- 
 or baking-pan, moistened with melted glaze, push 
 this into the oven, baste once with melted butter, 
 and when hot and lightly coloured dish on a flat 
 silver dish garnished with watercress, sauce Milanaise 
 (No. 3, Menu xxvi) accompanying. 
 
 3. Procure half a peck of fresh young peas ; shell 
 them ; put the peas into a bowl covered up ; wash 
 the pods, and slice them up into shreds ; 
 
 put these into a stewpan with three sprigs Green peas 
 
 of mint and moisten with just sufficient 
 
 hot water to cover them, put in a dessert-spoonful of 
 
86 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 sugar and one of salt. Boil up, and simmer for an 
 hour, straining the liquid away from the pods. Into 
 that, when boiling in another vessel, put the peas, 
 and boil fast until they are done ; strain and leave 
 the peas on the sieve while, with half an ounce of 
 butter , and half one of flour, you make a roux ; 
 moisten this with half a pint of the broth in which 
 the peas were cooked, bring to the boil, strain 
 through a hair sieve, put in the peas, warm them up 
 gently, finishing the sauce with a tablespoonful of 
 cream. Serve in a hot legumiere with sippets of fried 
 bread, or biscuits cut out of paste, made in the 
 manner described for No. 4, Menu vi. 
 
 4. Make nine little shallow cases of the paste just 
 mentioned rolled out thinly and laid in buttered 
 
 patty-pans, the hollows filled with raw 
 Cromtadcsh j-j^-g^ ^^^ |-[jg patties baked in a moderate 
 
 oven. When done, let them get cold, 
 and shake out the rice. Make a rather coarse mince 
 with two chopped hard-boiled eggs, six fillets of 
 anchovies, two tablespoonfuls of cooked mushroom, 
 and one pickled gherkin ; stir in after seasoning just 
 sufficient cream to moisten the mixture slightly, 
 and fill the croustades, trimming the mince in a 
 dome ; sprinkle over with grated ham, and dish the 
 croustades on a flat dish with a cucumber salad in 
 the centre, and garden cress lightly shaken over all. 
 
MENU XXVI. 
 
 {ynly.) 
 
 F&t4 de saumon froid. 
 
 Cailles k la flnanci^re. 
 
 Fonds d'articliauts k la Milanalse. 
 
 Compote d'abricots au liirsch. 
 
 I. Take for a seven-inch oval raised pie- mould 
 one pound and a half of uncooked salmon ; also 
 procure a fresh haddock or whitings 
 enough to yield half a pound of flesh 
 without bone. Trim the salmon, freed from skin 
 and bone, in small fillets, and put them on a dish, 
 seasoning them with pepper and salt. With the 
 whiting or haddock flesh make a forcemeat exactly 
 as explained for the creams in No. i. Menu ii., taking 
 for eight ounces of fish three each of panada and 
 butter. With the bones in like manner make a broth 
 moistening with water and a sherry-glass of chablis 
 instead of milk. When the forcemeat is ready, line 
 the mould, after buttering it well, with raised pie 
 paste rolled out three-eighths of an inch thick. Having 
 pressed this well into the mould, spread over the 
 bottom and sides a good casing of the forcemeat, 
 leaving a hollow in the centre ; fill this with the 
 salmon, packing it closely, and finish it at the top 
 with more forcemeat. Lay on a cover of puff paste, 
 with a small hole for the escape of gas generated in 
 
 87 
 
88 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 the cooking ; cover with buttered paper, and bake 
 in a moderate oven for an hour and a half. Mean- 
 while strain, skim, and reduce the fish broth till you 
 have about a gill and a half of strong essence. When 
 the pie is baked take it out of the oven, and after a 
 quarter of an hour pour in through the hole in the 
 top the reduced fish broth. Let it get quite cold all 
 night in the larder — over ice if the weather be hot — 
 and remove the mould just before serving. A new 
 potato salad would be a nice accompaniment. After 
 
 boiling slice the potatoes, let them get 
 ^alad°^'*^° cold, and arrange them in a salad bowl, 
 
 lubricate with best salad oil drop by drop 
 until the potatoes glisten, now shake over them a 
 fine mince of^chervil, chives, and tarragon, finishing 
 with a few drops only of the best French vinegar. 
 
 2. Blaise six quails in a stewpan, covering them 
 with thin slices of fat bacon, and pouring round them 
 two gills of really good broth and one of 
 financiere. chablis or sauterne. Cover the pan, and 
 put it in the oven, let its contents simmer 
 very gently, basting every now and then, till the 
 birds are done, then strain off the broth, turning 
 it to a sauce with a rotix made ready beforehand 
 in another stewpan, and adding another gill of 
 broth ; tint a nice brown with caramel, skim, and 
 finish with a claret-glassful of chablis that has been 
 boiled down to half that quantity ; pass this now 
 through a hair sieve, rinse out the stewpan, put back 
 the quails and the contents of a bottle of financiere 
 garnish, and heat all together gently. Prepare a 
 
COMPOTE OF GREEN APRICOTS. 89 
 
 border of pounded rice, lay this on a hot silver dish, 
 brush over its surface with melted gla^e, fill its centre 
 with the finaiiciere garnish, and lay the quails half on 
 the border and half on the garnish, legs inwards ; 
 pour the sauce over the centre, and serve. 
 
 3. Trim neatly, blanch, and simmer in broth six 
 artichoke bottoms, preparing the following sauce 
 while they ai-e cooking : — Put half an 
 
 ounce of butter into a stewpan over bottoms with 
 a low fire, melt, and add two ounces of Milanaise 
 finely minced onion, fry very gently till 
 soft without colouring, stir in half an ounce of flour, 
 and then moisten by degrees with half a pint of milk ; 
 bring to the boil, simmer fifteen minutes, adding 
 seasoning and a heaped tablespoonful of grated 
 Parmesan ; pass all through a hair sieve, and finish 
 with a tablespoonful of cream. Dish the artichoke 
 bottoms on a legumiere, and pour the sauce over them. 
 
 4. Trim a pound of young apricots in halves, re- 
 moving the stones and peeling off the skin. Dust 
 finely sifted sugar over them. Make a syrup as fol- 
 lows : — Put six ounces of sugar into three- 
 quarters of a pint of water with two Compote 0/ 
 tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, the finely cots. 
 peeled rind of a lemon and its juice ; boil 
 
 up, simmer five minutes, skim and strain ; put the 
 apricots into this and stew them very gently about 
 twenty minutes till they are tender ; let them get 
 cold and then add a sherry-glass of kirsch, and serve 
 in a glass dish with whipped cream. 
 
MENU XXVII. 
 
 (July.) 
 
 Sole au beurre vert. 
 
 cetelettes de volaille k, la Villeroy. 
 
 Haricots verts soubis^s. 
 
 FSches aux macarons. 
 
 I. Make an incision along the backbone on the 
 
 upper side of a sole up to within an inch of the head 
 
 at one end and the tail at the other, pass 
 
 gffen butter. ^ ^"^^^^ S^^'"? ^"^^^ ^"^^'■" ^^^ ^^^^ '^^ 
 either side of the incision, loosening it 
 
 from the bone. This having been done, diy the sole, 
 dusting a little flour over it to take up any moisture, 
 then turn it over on a dish containing an egg 
 beaten up with a dessert-spoonful of salad oil, drain, 
 and then lay it on a cloth on which a layer of finely 
 sifted, pounded, oven-dried crumbs has been spread. 
 Turn it, and see that the crumbing is evenly laid. 
 Let it dry, and repeat the egging and crumbing 
 again. Let the second coat dry, shake off super- 
 fluous crumbs, and then prepare a bath of boil- 
 ing fat and lay the sole in it, the incised side 
 uppermost ; under the influence of the very hot fat 
 the two edges of the cut side will curl outwards, 
 leaving a hollow space between them. When the 
 desired golden tint has been attained, lift the fish, 
 drain and dry it on a wire drainer, dish it on a hot 
 
 90 
 
CHICKEN CUTLETS A LA VILLEROY. 91 
 
 dish lined with paper, pouring into the cavity formed 
 by the curled flesh an ounce of melted green butter. 
 Garnish with lemon and parsley, and serve. 
 
 2. With six ounces of cold cooked chicken and two 
 
 of foie gras make nine or a dozen cutlets, following 
 
 the recipe give in No. i. Menu xxiv., in so 
 
 far as the other component parts of the Chicken 
 
 . , , ^, ,. ^ , cutlets a la 
 
 mixture and the cookmg are concerned, villcroy. 
 
 Let them get cold, then turn them out, 
 
 and glaze them with white chicken chaud-froid glaze, 
 
 using in this case a broth made from the bones and 
 
 trimmings of the chicken, with which three ounces of 
 
 mushrooms have been simmered. Finish the cutlets, 
 
 and dish them in the same way, introducing between 
 
 each of them a round iillet of cold cooked tongue 
 
 stamped out with a cutter. 
 
 3. French beans, if young, should only have their 
 ends pinched off ; the practice of shredding them is 
 an erroneous one, for it deprives the vegetable of 
 of half its flavour. Plunge the beans, say a quart 
 measure of them, into boiling salted water in a non- 
 tinned vessel. As soon as tender drain them, put 
 them back into the hot, dry vessel in which they were 
 cooked with an ounce of butter cut into little pieces, 
 turn them with a fork over a low fire as this melts 
 and they dry nicely, finally moistening with two gills 
 of well-made soubise sauce, to obtain which follow 
 the recipe given for sauce Milanaise, omitting the 
 cheese, but adding the cream in the same way. 
 Serve very hot in a legumiere with biscuits, as given 
 for the peas in Menu xxv. 
 
92 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 4. Choose peaches for this that have fallen prema- 
 turely from the tree ; six will make a nice dish. 
 Prepare them in the manner described for the 
 apricots in Menu xxvi., making, as in that case, a 
 strong syrup with apricot jam to strengthen it, and 
 any nice liqueUr to flavour. Tipsify a dozen maca- 
 roons with the same liqueur, arrange them in the 
 centre of a glass compote-dish, put the half peaches 
 in a circle round them, pour in the syrup, and serve 
 with pure cream as a sauce. 
 
MENU XXVIII. 
 
 (Eufs poch^s k la Lyoimaise. 
 Rognons de veau au vin blanc. 
 
 Fouding k I'ananas. 
 Tomates farcis k la Trouville. 
 
 1. Six good-sized artichoke bottoms being ready — 
 hot, cooked as described for No. 3, Menu xxvi. — lay 
 a poached egg on the surface of each, trim- 
 ming off the edges of the whites with a Poached 
 round cutter so that the egg may rest 'j^omaisc. 
 neatly on the fond, mask over with a 
 
 sharp sauce made as follows : — Put a teaspoonful of 
 finely minced shallot into a stewpan, moisten with a 
 gill of the best vinegar, boil over a quick fire until 
 only a tablespoonful remains. Keep this at hand. 
 Take half a pint of thickly reduced brown sauce, add 
 to it two fillets of anchovy freed from oil, stir in the 
 reduced vinegar, boil, sldm, and pass the sauce 
 through a hair sieve, heat up again, and pour over 
 the eggs as already mentioned ; serve on a flat silver 
 dish, garnished with sippets of fried bread. 
 
 2. Skin and cut into slices the thickness of a penny 
 piece two veal kidneys. Put into a deep saute-pan 
 or fricandeau-pan an ounce and a half of y^^^ j^^„g^5 
 butter, melt it over a low fire, and add with white 
 two tablespoonfuls of minced onion ; fry ^^"^■ 
 
 93 
 
94 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 for two or three minutes, and then put in the 
 sliced kidneys, increase the heat, and fry quicldy 
 till these are seized, then remove the pan, take out 
 the pieces of kidney and lay them on a dish. Next 
 mix in with the onions and gutter left in the pan an 
 ounce of flour, place this over a low fire, and when 
 thoroughly blended add two gills and a half of good 
 broth and a gill and a half of white wine (chablis or 
 sauterne), a bouquet garni, and stalks and peelings 
 of two ounces of mushroom minced ; bring slowly to 
 the boil, skim, and simmer a quarter of an hour, then 
 strain ; lay the kidneys in the rinsed-out saute-pan, 
 moisten with the sauce, put in the peeled mush- 
 rooms, heat up gently, simmering very slowly till 
 the kidney slices are tender, and then serve as a 
 ragout within a border of rice or mashed potato. 
 
 3. Preserved pineapple will do for this pudding. 
 Cut the fruit into slices a quarter of an inch thick, 
 
 then remove the eyes and any tough part 
 tuddmi" there may be, cutting the slices thus 
 
 trimmed into fillets the width of your first 
 iinger. Put all the ti-immings and the syrup strained 
 from the fruit into a small saucepan, with a table- 
 spoonful of apjricot jam, the zest and juice of a lemon, 
 and a sherry-glass of rum ; boil up, and strain. This 
 will be the sauce to accompany the pudding, hot or 
 cold as you may desire. During this operation mari- 
 nade the fillets with rum — a liqueur-glass sprinkled 
 over them, with a dust of sifted sugar, is enough. 
 Butter a plain pint and a half charlotte-mould, line 
 it with paper, and butter that too. Arrange a pattern. 
 
STUFFED TOMATOES A LA TROUVILLE. 95 
 
 if you like, for the top and walls of the pudding with 
 strips of the fruit and rows of crystallised cherries 
 cut in halves, then pack the hollow of the mould with 
 the pineapple fillets, laying them crosswise, with little 
 spaces between them,, through which the custard 
 must presently filter. This should be made of half a 
 pint of milk, a gill of cream, and five whole eggs, 
 with an ounce and a half of sugar and the zest 
 of a lemon. When ready pour the custard in by 
 degrees, leaving about an inch of the mould free 
 to allow for the rising. Steam the pudding very 
 gently, and when firm turn it outj pouring the 
 syrup over it. If required cold, let it get cold 
 in the mould over ice, set the syrup in ice, and 
 having tui-ned the pudding out pour the cold 
 syrup over it, and have whipped cream served on 
 a separate dish. 
 
 4. Choose six ripe tomatoes of good colour and of a 
 like size ; slice off the stalk ends parallel with the width 
 of the tomato, and with a teaspoon scoop out the 
 inside carefully, thus forming a cup ; set these aside 
 over ice while you empty all the scooped-out part 
 and sHced ends into a stewpan with a 
 teaspoonful of minced onion and half an SJtiffed 
 
 r . ,i oi lu- ii i.-ii ci. tomatoes a la 
 
 ounce of butter. Stew this gently till soft, TrouviUe. 
 
 and then pass the tomatoes through the 
 hair sieve, return the puree to the stewpan and bring it 
 to the boil, reducing until it coats the spoon like jam, 
 stirring continually during the operation. Set a basin 
 on ice, and whip a gill and a half of cream in it till 
 stiff, passing into it the tomato pulp, one granulated 
 
96 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 hard-boiled egg, and six fillets of anchovies cut into 
 little pieces. Fill the cases with this ; dust grated 
 Parmesan over them, and serve on a flat dish, gar- 
 nished vsrith watercress or salading. 
 
MENU XXIX. 
 
 {August.) 
 
 Omelette fourr^e au homard. 
 
 Escalopes de veau k. la Contadma. 
 
 F^ves de marais k la poulette. 
 
 Crime pocli^e au gingembre. 
 
 1. Take all the flesh from a small lobster or half a 
 medium-sized one, from four to six ounces being 
 enough. Of this make a mince, rather 
 
 small than otherwise, put a gill of good g°„gig[ig 
 white sauce into a stewpan", stir in the 
 mince, heat gently over a low fire without boiUng, 
 season with salt, Nepaul pepper, and mace, and 
 finish with a dessert-spoonful of cream. Make an 
 omelette of five eggs, as explained for savoury omelette 
 in the Appendix, and just before turning it out of the 
 pan quickly spread the lobster mince over the surface, 
 dishing immediately ; scatter finely minced parsley 
 over the surface, and serve. 
 
 2. This may be made of cold cooked veal or of 
 uncooked, the only difference in the operation being 
 that the escalopes, neatly cut in small 
 
 rounds or ovals, should in the former Escalofcsoj 
 case be merely gently heated up in the Contadina. 
 sauce, and in the latter stewed equally 
 gently in it — boiling in both instances being studiously 
 avoided. Make the sauce in this way : — Melt an 
 
 8 97 
 
98 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 ounce of the best fresh butter in a stewpan over a low 
 fire, stir into it one tablespoonful of finely minced 
 onion, six ounces of tomatoes cut up, a saltspoonful 
 of powdered rosemary, and a seasoning of black 
 pepper and salt ; fry together gently for ten minutes, 
 then mix in half an ounce of flour ; work this well 
 till blended, and then moisten with two gills of broth 
 and one of chablis or sauterne ; bring to the boil, 
 skim, simmer for ten minutes, and pass all through a 
 hair sieve ; now return the sauce to the rinsed-out 
 pan, put in the meat, and either stew or gently warm 
 it as the case may be. Serve as a ragout inside a 
 circle of spaghetti that has been boiled, drained, 
 moistened with melted butter, and dusted over with 
 grated Parmesan. A sprinkling of finely minced olives 
 should be scattered over the surface of the ragout. 
 
 3. If broad beans be very young, not more than 
 three parts grown, they need not be de- 
 Broad prived of their skins, but if at all old they 
 
 foulette. must after shelling be plunged into boil- 
 ing salt and water until just tender, when 
 their skins can be peeled off. As this is carried out 
 they should be cast into a bowl of cold water, then 
 drained. Have ready a poulette sauce made as 
 follows : — Put half an ounce of butter into a stewpan 
 over a low fire, melt, and stir in half an ounce of 
 flour, moisten with half a pint of milk, bring to the 
 boil, and pass through a pointed strainer into another 
 stewpan, add two yolks of egg that have been mixed 
 with half a gill of cream, season with salt and white 
 pepper, and put in the beans ; heat up gently in the 
 
BROAD BEANS A LA POULETTE. 99 
 
 bain-marie for fear of the egg curdling, and serve in 
 a legumiere, with the biscuits mentioned for No. 4, 
 Menu vi. Scatter finely minced chervil over the 
 surface of the beans to finish with. 
 
 4. For a pint and a half mould take two and a half 
 giUs of milk, three whole eggs and two yolks, two 
 tablespoonfuls of ginger syrup, and the zest of a 
 lemon or orange. Boil the milk, and as it cools beat 
 the syrup and eggs together in a bowl, then add the 
 milk and zest and turn the mixture to a custard over 
 another vessel containing boiling water. Butter a 
 plain charlotte-mould, line it with buttered paper, 
 ornament the top with a pattern cut out of preserved 
 ginger, and make a fine mince of all the trimmings 
 and as much more of the preserve as may be required 
 to yield four tablespoonfuls. Stir this into the custard, 
 fill the mould with the latter and steam it gently until 
 firm — about forty-five to fifty minutes — then turn out 
 and serve with a syrup flavoured with ginger and 
 lemon-juice. Equally nice cold with a cold syrup. 
 
MENU XXX. 
 
 iAugnsf.) 
 
 (£ufs aux crevettes k la Cingalese. 
 
 Salmis froid de "grouse." 
 
 Macaroni fourr^. 
 
 Fruits frapp^s au champagne. 
 
 1. Having made three gills of Ceylon curi-y sauce as 
 
 described for No. 2, Menu i., and strained 
 
 Eggs with it put into it with the cream and lemon 
 
 shrimps ala ^ :r. . , , • . j 1. • 
 
 Cingalese. half a pmt of picked shrimps, warm up 
 
 gently, and having arranged six poached 
 
 eggs on hot toasts on a hot silver dish, pour the sauce 
 
 over them and serve. 
 
 2. For this take all the meat from a cold grouse in 
 as neat pieces as possible, dust them over with flour, 
 
 and put them aside ; while with the 
 ^fgromT^ crushed bones, skin, and trimmings, 
 
 moistened with three gills of good broth, 
 you make as good a grouse essence as you can in the 
 manner described for the hare broth in No. i. Menu 
 i. ; turn this to a sauce, as in the case of sauce a la 
 Gogue, adding a quarter of an ounce of soaked 
 gelatine during the process. Strain this through a 
 hair sieve, and as it cools and begins to thicken, set 
 a dish on ice, and with a trussing needle plunge each 
 
FRUITS ICED WITH CHAMPAGNE. loi 
 
 piece of grouse into the sauce, coating it well ; lay 
 these in a mound in the centre of the cold dish, 
 reserving the best-looldng ones for the outside ; keep 
 it in an ice closet, or in a vessel with ice round it, 
 and when required take it out, surround the mound 
 with broken aspic, and hard-boiled eggs in quarters. 
 A salad made of fonds d'artichauts in the manner 
 givsn for orange salad, kept as cold as possible, 
 might accompany. 
 
 3. This is a handy way of disposing of nice 
 remains, such as cold sweetbread, chicken or tur- 
 key's liver, foie gras, &c. Make as good ,, 
 
 -' J J t> ! ■,,,-, Macaroni 
 
 an assortment as you can with cooked with 
 mushroom, tongue, ham, and any of the savoury 
 things first named, all cut into a coarse 
 mince. Having prepared six tablespoonfuls of such 
 a salpicon, put it into a stewpan, moisten it with a 
 gill and a half of good brown sauce, and heat it 
 gently up without boiling. Boil and prepare four 
 ounces of macaroni, and finish the dish like spag- 
 hetti fourre aux champignons in Menu xxiv. 
 
 4. Select three or four varieties of fruit ; pine- 
 apple, peaches, apricots, bananas, &c., in quantity 
 sufficient for the party. With a silver knife trim the 
 fruit in nice pieces, and put them in a 
 
 china bowl over ice ; make half a pint Fruits 
 
 tCCUf 'Wttli' 
 
 of apricot syrup, flavoured with lemon champagne. 
 and a glass of old brandy, and with it 
 moisten the fruit as you do salad with dressing, 
 turning it over with a wooden spoon and fork. 
 
102 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 Owing to the cold the syrup will by degrees coat the 
 fruit. Let it rest over the ice till wanted, and at the 
 last pour over it a pint of iced champagne, serving at 
 once. 
 
MENU XXXI. 
 
 (,August.') 
 
 (Eufs brouill6s a la cbasseuse. 
 
 COtelettes de mouton k la Verdi 
 
 G&teau glac6 k la crime. 
 
 FondB d'artichauts k la Russe. 
 
 I. Take the remains from a brace of cold grouse, 
 from four to six ounces enough, free this from skin 
 and sinew and pass it through a mincing 
 machine ; with the bones, skin, &c., make Buttered 
 a strong broth as explained for the hare game!* * 
 cutlets in Menu i. Thicken and reduce 
 this ; as soon as it is ready put in the mince (the con- 
 sistency being about as thick as jam) and heat it 
 gently in the bain-marie. Have ready six well-fried 
 croutes of bread three inches long, two broad, and a 
 quarter thick ; keep them hot in the mouth of the 
 oven. Make now aeufs brouilles (see No. i. Menu iii.) 
 with five eggs and three ounces of butter, and the 
 moment they are ready spread the croutes over with 
 the grouse mince ; arrange them on a hot silver dish, 
 mask them with the buttered eggs, scatter finely 
 grated ham over all, and serve. Everything depends 
 upon the excellence of the essence produced from 
 the game bones and the rapidity of serving the 
 moment the buttered eggs are done. Practicable 
 
 with any kind of game. 
 
 103 
 
104 
 
 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 2. Turn to Menu xxv., and having read the recipe 
 for coteleties a la Murillo, proceed in the same manner 
 
 with a best end of neck of mutton, having 
 Mutton^ chosen one from a small sheep free from 
 Verdi. excess of fat. Roast the neck as there 
 
 explained, divide it into cutlets as soon 
 as it is done, lay them on a well-buttered paper in 
 a buttered baking-tin, and mask their upper sides 
 with thiclcy reduced Milanaise sauce (No. 3, Menu 
 xxvi.), push into the oven for two or three minutes 
 to heat gently, then take them out with a slice and 
 arrange them on a hot flat dish surrounded with riz 
 tomate, No- 2, Menu iv. 
 
 3. Work to a cream in a bowl four ounces of 
 butter, add two ounces of sugar and the zest of a 
 
 lemon ; work ten minutes, stir in the yolks 
 wmcrZm. Of three eggs, and when smooth four 
 
 ounces of well-sifted flour, passing it in 
 by degrees, and mixing with it, flake by flake, the 
 whipped whites of three eggs ; flavour with vanilla. 
 With a brush butter a circular border-mould well, 
 let this get cold, and then dust over it half an ounce 
 of glazing sugar mixed with half an ounce of Groult's 
 fecule de pommes de terre, pour in the cake mixture, 
 filling the mould two-thirds of its depth only ; set 
 the mould on a baking-tin, and bake in a slow oven 
 for forty minutes ; turn the cake out on a wire 
 drainer, and when cold set it on a silver or china 
 dish, filling the centre with whipped cream with 
 which raspberry or strawberry syrup has been 
 blended. If liked this may be served hot. Fill the 
 
ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA RUSSE. . 105 
 
 hollow with peaches or apricots heated in syrup 
 flavoured with nim, and dust finely sifted sugar over 
 all. 
 
 4. Spread over the hollows of six artichoke bottoms 
 
 which have been cooked and laid on a dish over ice, 
 
 a layer of fresh caviar prepared with a 
 
 squeeze of lemon-iuice and a dust of Artichoke 
 -I? , ■^ , .,, bottoms a la 
 
 Nepaul pepper ; mask over with mayon- Russe. 
 
 naise sauce ; let the fonds thus prepared 
 
 get very cold, and then dish in a circle on croutes 
 
 specially made of the paste given in Menu vi.. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
MENU XXXII. 
 
 {August.) 
 
 Salade de crabe. 
 
 Foulet k la Parmentier. 
 
 EpinaTds k la crime soubis^e. 
 
 Figues glacis au kirscli. 
 
 I. Have a medium-sized crab sent in untouched 
 by the fishmonger. Dress it yourself as follows : — 
 Crack and pick out all the meat of the 
 claws and the breastplate, shred it, put 
 one-third of this on one side, and mix with the other 
 two-thirds in a bowl the liver and cream of the back, 
 dressing it with this sauce : — Put a dessert-spoonful of 
 powdered mustard into a bowl with a saltspoonful 
 of salt, a pinch of white pepper, a teaspoonful of 
 minced chives, and the hard-boiled yolks of two 
 eggs ; add a dessert-spoonful of salad oil to these 
 ingredients, bruising them well to a paste with a 
 clean wooden spoon ; next throw in the yolk of 
 a raw egg, and work vigorously, adding oil in small 
 quantities by degrees till you have a couple of gills 
 of sauce ; finish now with a dessert-spoonful of 
 tarragon vinegar, pass all through a perforated 
 strainer, and keep it in a bowl over ice. With a 
 pint of aspic jelly fill a round border-mould, setting 
 it in layers over ice with hard-boiled egg-yolks, balls 
 of green butter, and turned olives alternated therein. 
 
GREEN FIGS GLAZED WITH KIRSCH. 107 
 
 Finish by turning out the border, fill the centre with 
 the dressed crab masked with the shredded meat 
 that you saved, garnish over all with a fine lace-work 
 of garden cress, and a ring of golden lettuce-leaves 
 round the outside of the border, the remaining sauce 
 in a boat. 
 
 2. Out of six or eight good-sized half -boiled potatoes 
 cut about three dozen rounds or fillets about two inches 
 long, one inch wide, and a quarter thick ; 
 
 dry them in a cloth, and then put them Parmmttl^ 
 into a stewpan with an ounce of butter 
 over a low fire, and move them about, tossing them 
 occasionally until they are done. Cut up a cold 
 cooked chicken in nice pieces, and prepare it exactly 
 like poulet a la Toscane in Menu v., substituting the 
 potato fillets or rounds for the macai-oni. 
 
 3. For the preparation of the spinach see No. 2, 
 Menu xvi., but finish with two table- 
 spoonfuls of soubise sauce, and one of Spinach with 
 
 Cf£0.fft ciitd 
 
 cream. Make the soubise in the way soubise. 
 given for sauce Milanaise (No. 3, Menu 
 xxvi.), omitting the cheese. Serve with biscuits made 
 of the paste described for No. 4, Menu vi. 
 
 4. Slightly unripe green figs will do for this — a 
 
 dozen or dozen and a half. Stew them 
 
 very gently in iust sufficient syrup to cover Green figs 
 iu -A- i.1; ■ ■ X 1 A &azed with 
 
 them, with the juice of a lemon, and a kirsch. 
 
 sherry-glassful of kirsch ; stop when they 
 
 are tender, then take them out and let them get cold 
 
io8 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 in a china dish over ice. Meanwhile reduce the 
 syrup over the fire, adding two tablespoonfuls of 
 apricot jajn to it ; when like honey strain it, and 
 when cold begin to baste the figs with it. The cold 
 will cause the glaze to mask the fruit, and when that 
 has been done let the figs remain over ice till wanted, 
 then serve with whipped cream in a separate dish. 
 This may be flavoured with any liqueur, with brandy 
 or with rum. 
 
MENU XXXIII. 
 
 [September.) 
 
 An^ille k la tortue froide. 
 
 Lapin braisS k la Borg'li^se. 
 
 Cr^me k rAntoinette. 
 
 Timbales k la Turque. 
 
 I. Skin, and fillet an eel of about a pound in 
 weight, subdividing the fillets into two-inch lengths. 
 Put the skin and bone, with twopenny- 
 worth of white fish-cuttings, to make a ^o^'j^oj 
 pint and a half of good fish broth, using tartare. 
 weak meat or chicken broth for the 
 moistening, three ounces each of onion, carrot, and 
 turnip, and seasoning with sweet herbs, parsley, 
 salt, and mignonette pepper. Skim the scum off 
 carefully, boil up once, and after simmering three- 
 quarters of an hour strain off the broth. Let 
 it get cold, and skim the surface well ; now put 
 it into a clean stewpan with a claret-glassful of 
 chabhs, bring to the boil, and put the fillets into it ; 
 after two minutes draw back and simmer slowly 
 till they are tender, then take them out and lay them 
 on a dish under a weight. Proceed now to reduce 
 to three gills, and then clarify the broth, adding to it 
 half a teaspoonful of Liebig's extract, half an ounce of 
 soaked gelatine, and the whites, slightly whisked, of 
 two eggs. Stir round continually over a fast fire. 
 
no FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 working with the whisk, until signs of boiling show 
 themselves, then let the liquid barely simmer for ten 
 minutes, after which it can be strained through a 
 tamis. Pour it back and strain again. Now place a 
 plain pint and a half charlotte-mould in a basin with 
 ice round it, pour in about the eighth of an inch of the 
 liquid to set a pattern, which should be arranged at 
 the bottom of the mould — olives, gherkins, and hard- 
 boiled eggs can be used for this purpose.. When set, 
 begin to pack the mould by degreed, setting layer after 
 layer of eel fillets with sliced hard-boiled egg here 
 and there and little squares of anchovy cut from six 
 fillets. When packed and set, let the mould remain 
 in ice till required when serve surrounded with well- 
 selected lettuce leaves and watercress, very cold 
 tartare sauce accompanying, made like the sauce 
 given for the crab No. i, Menu xxxii., but with a 
 garnish added to it of minced chives, chervil, tar- 
 ragon, and gherkin, a teaspoonful of each, except the 
 tarragon, of which half a teaspoonful will be enough. 
 
 2. Truss a rabbit as for boiling after stuffing it with 
 this stuffing : — Take the liver, heart, and kidneys of 
 the rabbit, cut them up, and fry them (Jaire revenir) 
 in an ounce of butter over a low fire with a table- 
 spoonful each of minced Portugal onion 
 b^^'^'d ~ / ^^^ carrot, and a quarter of a pound of 
 Borghese. minced mushroonls. After five minutes' 
 frying moisten with a sherry-glass of 
 chablis or sauterne, and add half an ounce of glaze. 
 Continue to cook slowly, and as soon as the meat is 
 soft let it get cold, and then empty the contents of 
 
HARE OR RABBIT STUFFING. iii 
 
 the sfl«/e-pan into a mortar, pounding and passing 
 the whole through a wire sieve. The puree thus 
 obtained, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 should be stirred into a bowl with the p"rf'"' 
 usual three ounces of bread crumb, minced stuffing. 
 or powdered herbs, zest of lemon, two 
 ounces of butter, and two eggs. Before packing the 
 rabbit with this, Une the inside with thin strips of 
 cooked streaky bacon. Line the bottom of a stew- 
 pan with an ounce of butter, and two ounces of 
 uncooked bacon cut into dice ; set the pan on the 
 fire, and melt the butter, lay the rabbit over it, and 
 fry for about seven minutes, turning it to ensure 
 even colouring, then take it out and put it on a dish 
 while you put an ounce and a half of flour into the 
 butter, stir for three minutes, and then moisten with 
 five gills of broth ; bring to the boil, skim, and pass 
 through a strainer. Rinse out the pan, put in the 
 rabbit, moisten with the sauce, putting in with it a 
 musUn bag containing a dessert-spoonful of herbs, 
 four ounces of sliced onion, four of carrots, and two of 
 celery. Simmer slowly now for three-quarters of an 
 hour, then add twelve ounces of young turnips cut into 
 neat shapes ; continue the simmering till the turnips 
 are done, then lift the rabbit and place it on a hot 
 dish, arrange the pieces of turnip neatly all round it, 
 skimming and pouring the sauce over it through a 
 strainer ; curls of bacon crisped in the oven may be 
 laid at intervals round the turnip garnish. 
 
 3. Custardise two and a half gills of cold parboiled 
 milk sweetened with two ounces of sugar, with four 
 
112 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 yolks of eggs, adding during the process half an 
 ounce of soaked gelatine and lemon flavouring ; when 
 
 well mixed and smooth pass through a 
 Cream a clean hair sieve into a bowl, whip, and 
 
 add a gill of whipped cream. Have a 
 pint and a half mould on ice, arrange a pattern of 
 preserved cherries, which have been marinaded in 
 maraschino, at the bottom of it, set this, and continue 
 setting layers of cherries with the cream till the 
 mould is filled. Keep on ice till required, turn out, 
 and then pour over it a gill and a half of syrup 
 flavoured with a liqueur-glass of maraschino, and the 
 juice of half a lemon, tinted pink with cochineal. 
 
 4. Line nine buttered darioles with cold parboiled 
 spaghetti, arranging it with a trussing needle in a 
 coil round the bottom, and in rings round 
 fh"/"' A^/""^ the sides. Chop up rather finely four 
 Titrque. ounccs of lobster, dilute this with a gill 
 of savoury custard with which a tea- 
 spoonful of curry powder and a tablespoonful of 
 cream have been mixed ; fill the little moulds with 
 this, and steam gently till set, turn them out, and 
 serve with a sauce made as follows : — Melt half an 
 ounce of butter in a stewpan, stir in a teaspoonful of 
 minced shallot ; fiy till coloured, add a teaspoonful 
 of curry powder and a large one of rice flour, fry 
 five minutes more, and then moisten with a gill and 
 a half of milk, put in salt and a teaspoonful of grated 
 green ginger ; boil up, strain, add a dessert-spoonful 
 of cream and the juice of half a lemon. The tim- 
 bales and sauce will be very nice cold if preferred 
 in that way. 
 
MENU XXXIV. 
 
 {September.') 
 
 Croustades k la poiasonni^re. 
 Ferdreaux k la Suisse. 
 
 Fur^e de bananes. 
 Crimes d« champignons. 
 
 1. With the paste given for No. 4, Menu vi., line 
 half a dozen mince pie pans, buttering them well 
 and rolling the paste out about as thick 
 
 as a penny piece : prick and fill these ^"'^ , , 
 with raw rice, bake in a moderate oven, 
 shake out the rice, and tui-n out the little saucers 
 thus obtained. Have ready six large tablespoonfuls 
 of nice mince of cold turbot, moistened and warmed 
 up with a gill of lobster sauce (or any cold fish with 
 shrimp sauce) flavoured with an atom of mace. Keep 
 this hot in the bain-marie, and the saucers hot in 
 the mouth of the oven. When required, and not 
 till that time or the cases will be sodden, fiU each 
 with the hot mince, dust freely over with grated 
 Parmesan, and serve on a hot napkin. 
 
 2. It often happens that old partridges have to be 
 disposed of. If this be the case, truss a 
 
 brace for boiUng, fiUing the cavity of i^^^f^^' " 
 
 each bird with a stuffing composed of 
 
 two ounces of bread crumb, two of chopped par- 
 
 9 "3 
 
114 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 boiled onion, the livei-s of the birds, an ounce, for 
 each, of chopped mushroom, and one well-beaten 
 egg ; sew up the vents and simmer the birds in 
 broth and milk in half proportions, surrounded with 
 eight ounces of finely sliced onions, two of celery, a 
 muslin bag containing a dessert-spoonful of sweet 
 herbs, pepper, and salt. When done, lift the birds, 
 keep them covered up with a hot cloth in the pan in 
 which they were done, from which the broth and 
 vegetables have been strained off. Pass the onions 
 and celery through a hair sieve, and blend the puree 
 with the broth over a low fire, mixing first half an 
 ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour to effect 
 that object ; as the sauce is cooking add a gill of fresh 
 tomato puree, boil up and pass through the sieve again, 
 heating it up afterwards, and finishing with a table- 
 spoonful of cream. Dish the birds, mask them with 
 the sauce, garnish all round with well-boiled rice, 
 and serve. 
 
 3. Choose six ripe bananas, peel, scrape off their 
 fibre, and mash them with a silver fork, flavour 
 with a liqueur-glass of maraschino, the juice of a 
 lemon, and a gill of strawberry syrup as sold for 
 
 ices. Work this well, and pass it all 
 iurJe"' through a hair sieve (that is reserved for 
 
 sweet cookery) into a bowl. Make two 
 gills of custard, blending with it two yolks, and half an 
 ounce of gelatine, and sweetening with two ounces of 
 sugar. Pass this through a hair sieve and blend it 
 with the banana puree, adding a gill of whipped 
 cream ; pour all into a china compote-dish, which set 
 
LITTLE CREAMS OF MUSHROOMS. 115 
 
 over ice, cover the surface with whipped cream, and 
 serve. 
 
 4. Peel and remove the stalks from half a pound 
 of mushrooms, choosing light-coloured ones ; with a 
 silver spoon scrape out the gills ; cut up 
 the mushrooms, sprinkle them with salt Little creams 
 and lemon-juice, and cover them, while rooms. 
 with the well-washed stalks and trimmings 
 finely minced you flavour a couple of gills of milk, 
 seasoning it with salt and white pepper, then boiling 
 up and simmering for ten minutes. Strain this off, 
 wipe out the pan, put half an ounce of butter and 
 half an ounce of flour into it, mix, add the strained 
 milk and the cut-up mushrooms ; boil again and 
 simmer, adding a quarter ounce of gelatine, and 
 stirring carefully ; when the mushrooms are quite 
 soft, empty the contents of the pan upon a hair sieve, 
 pass all through it, add half a gill of whipped cream, 
 mix well, pour into small darioles, set over ice, and 
 serve garnished with watercress. 
 
MENU XXXV. 
 
 (Seftember.") 
 
 MaoLuereau marine aux olives. 
 
 Hachis de ttoeuf grating. 
 
 Compote de reine Claudes frambois^es. 
 
 Fetits fromages aux anchois. 
 
 1. Boil one large or two medium-sized mackerel in 
 a liquid half water and half vinegar ; as soon as done 
 
 take them out, lay them in a deep earthen- 
 Mackerel ware dish, and pour the liquid over them. 
 olives cold. Let them lie in this all night. For lun- 
 cheon take them out, carefully remove the 
 flesh in two fillets, one from either side of the fish, 
 lay these on a dish over ice, mask over their surfaces 
 with mayonnaise sauce gai^nished with chopped olives, 
 arrange round them a circle of turned olives and cold 
 cooked fillets of cucumber with bunches of iwater- 
 cress, broken aspic jelly also if available, and 
 serve. 
 
 2. Mince up a pound and a half of cold roast beef, 
 freeing it from all sinew and skin. Put this aside 
 
 while you make a sauce as follows : — Put 
 gtatine. ^'^^° ^ stewpan an ounce of butter, melt 
 
 it, and add two tablespoonfuls of minced 
 onion and the same of mushroom ; fry very gently, 
 and add an ounce of flour ; stir it for three 
 
LITTLE CREAM CHEESES WITH ANCHOVY. 117 
 
 minutes, and moisten with three gills of stock ; 
 boil up, tint a good brown with caramel, simmer 
 for ten minutes, and strain through a perforated 
 strainer into a bowl ; now add a tablespoonful of 
 marsala, and stir in the minced beef. Have ready 
 boiled two pounds of potatoes ; mash these well, 
 pass through a hair sieve, adding two tablespoon- 
 fuls of grated Parmesan, the yolks of two eggs, an 
 ounce of butter melted, and a tablespoonful of cream 
 with seasoning ; out of this form a neat border 
 upon a fireproof china dish, brushing, it over with 
 melted butter. Fill the centre of the border with 
 the mince, set it in the oven to brown, and when ready 
 take it out, garnish with grilled mushrooms, and serve. 
 
 3. Make a pint of plain syrup, adding to it half a 
 pound of raspberry jam and the juice of a lemon. 
 Set over the fire, and when the jam has 
 dissolved well turn the whole out upon a Greengages 
 
 tfl YClSiioCYW 
 
 hair sieve and pass the syrup through it. gyrup. 
 Now put two dozen greengages into a 
 stewpan, cover them with the syrup, and stew gently 
 till done ; then take them out, put them in a glass 
 compote-dish, pour the syrup over them, let this get 
 cold, and smother with whipped cream. 
 
 4. Weigh four ounces of finely grated Parmesan 
 or Gruyere, add to it in a bowl a table- 
 spoonful of made mustard, a dessert-spoon- Little cream 
 r , r ,, , . T^ , . . ^,, , cheeses with 
 ful of the best French vinegar, six fillets anchovy. 
 
 of anchovy, and the yolks of three eggs ; 
 
 work the whole through a hair sieve into a bowl, 
 
ir8 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 and add to it a gill of whipped cream. Have ready 
 half a dozen little saucers made like those given for 
 No. I, Menu xxxiv., cold, fill them with the mixture, 
 dust over with Parmesan, and serve. 
 
MENU XXXVI. 
 
 (September.) 
 
 (Eufs duTS k la SIoscoTlt& 
 
 ■Hashed venison"— haricots verts soubis^s. 
 
 Salade des chasseurs. 
 
 Tourte k I'ananas. 
 
 I. Pour half a pint of liquid aspic jelly into a flat 
 dish, so that its depth may be about three-eighths of 
 an inch. Let this get firm over ice, and 
 then with an inch and a half round cutter Hard-boiled 
 dipped in hot water cut out ten discs, lifting Moscovite. 
 them and laying them in a circle on a round 
 silver or china dish placed over ice. Chop up the 
 trimmings of the aspic for garnish. Boil five large 
 eggs hard, let them get cold in iced water, shell 
 them, sHce off the rounded ends (sufficiently to admit 
 of each half egg sitting upright), and with a very 
 sharp knife cut each egg in half crosswise ; next scoop 
 out the yolks, and set each little cup of white thus 
 formed on a disc of jelly. Pound the five yolks with 
 five fillets of anchovy and an ounce of iced butter, 
 and press this through a wire sieve, so that the puree 
 may come through hke vermicelli. Also make a puree 
 with four ounces of picked shrimps moistened with 
 half a gill of hollandaise sauce ; fill the hollows of the 
 eggs with this, pressing it through a forcing pipe. 
 
 Trim the puree in neat dome shape, and smooth it 
 
 119 
 
120 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 with a palette-knife dipped in hot water ; dress the 
 surfaces of the eggs with the vermicelli made with 
 the yolks, and decorate the dish with the broken 
 aspic, and a lace-like screening of garden cress. 
 Eggs prepared in this way make an excellent garnish 
 round a block of cold fish masked with aspic, and 
 served with cold mayonnaise sauce in a boat. 
 
 2. Cut the venison into neat slices, and for a pound 
 of meat see that you have ready three-quarters of 
 
 a pint of really strong broth. Make a 
 vmison marinade as follows in an earthenware 
 
 bowl : — Two gills of light claret, in which 
 a dessert-spoonful of red currant jelly has been 
 dissolved, half a gill of good French vinegar, a 
 teaspoonful of minced shallot, a tablespoonful of 
 chopped parsley, a teaspoonful each of chopped 
 thyme and marjoram, half a saltspoonful of black 
 pepper, and one of salt. Arrange all the slices of 
 venison on a large joint dish, spreading them over 
 its surface, having first carefully trimmed off all skin 
 and gristle ; then pour over them the marinade. Let 
 them lie in this as long as you can, turning them 
 occasionally. To complete the hash put an ounce of 
 butter into a stewpan, melt and mix in an r ounce of 
 flour, and stir over a low fire till lightly browned, 
 then pass in the broth by degrees, and the marinade 
 strained from the meat ; bring to the boil, skim 
 carefully, and continue the boiling, stirring well till 
 the sauce is reduced one-third : cool it somewhat 
 now, and strain it over the slices of venison, which 
 should be laid in another stewpan. Place this over 
 
OPEN TART OF PINEAPPLE. 121 
 
 very gentle heat till hot enough to serve without 
 boiling, and then keep it in the bain-marie closely 
 covered till required. Hashes and minces are im- 
 proved by being kept at gentle heat in the carefully 
 made sauce. For the haricots verts soubises see Menu 
 xxvii. 
 
 3. This is a nice way of using the remains of cold 
 game : — Cut off all the meat you can find and keep 
 it ready. Make as strong an essence with 
 
 the crushed bones as you can, following f^;^^'""'^ 
 the recipe given for the broth in No. i. 
 Menu i. Assuming that you can get half a pint, 
 blend. with it a quarter ounce of diluted gelatine, 
 and strain this through a hair sieve ; when cold it 
 should be a jelly such as you find in game pies. 
 Dress the meat and jelly broken into convenient 
 pieces in a mound in the centre of a dish, mask it 
 with mayonnaise sauce, garnish round with hard- 
 boiled eggs, turned olives, rolled fillets of anchovy, 
 and cold cooked artichoke bottoms, and serve as 
 cold as possible, with Nepaul pepper and mayonnaise 
 sauce in reserve. If Uked, the meat may be set in 
 the jelly in a round basin, and turned out and 
 garnished when required. 
 
 4. Line an open tart-tin with puff pastry, filling the 
 hollow in the centre with raw rice ; bake in a moderate 
 oven, and when done shake out the rice 
 
 and let the case get cold ; then fill the ^t^Zl^le. °^ 
 tart with slices of preserved pineapple, 
 moistening with thick golden syrup made as follows : — 
 
122 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 Put into the syrup of the pineapple three tablespoon- 
 fuls of apricot jam, a liqueur-glass of rum, the juice 
 of a lemon and a teaspoonful of cornflour ; boil up, 
 strain,, and cool; when cold pour over the pineapple 
 slices, and cover the surface with whipped cream, 
 with which an ounce of pounded pistachio nuts may 
 be blended. 
 
MENU XXXVII. 
 
 (October.) 
 
 Br^me de mer k la Maltalse. 
 
 Quenelles de gibier frites. 
 
 Crofltes aux pSches. 
 
 Canapes k la Nantaise. 
 
 I. Choose a sea-bream weighing about a pound 
 and a half. Take the flesh from each side, thus 
 obtaining two fillets, and subdivide each 
 of them in three pieces. Then proceed f^^'MMaise^ 
 with the head and bones to make a broth, 
 moistening with weak stock if available, if not, with 
 water, following in other respects the recipe for the 
 broth given for No. i. Menu xxxiii., and cooking the 
 fillets in the same way. After laying them on the dish 
 as therein described, put another dish over them with 
 the weights of the kitchen scales upon it to press the 
 fillets flat. Next put, for a pint of broth, one ounce of 
 butter into a stewpan, melt it over a low fire, and stir 
 in an ounce and a quarter of flour ; cook the roux till 
 coloured slightly, and then pass in the broth by degrees, 
 adding a few drops of caramel to colour, and one gill 
 of tomato puree or freshly made sauce ; bring to the 
 boil, and skim ; pass all through a hair sieve, rinse out 
 the stewpan, and pour the sauce into it. Release the 
 fillets from pressure, trim them neatly, and, taking 
 them up with a slice, slip them into the sauce, place 
 
 123 
 
124 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 the pan over a low fire simply to heat up gently 
 without boiling, and stir in the juice of half a lemon 
 and a dessert-spoonful of minced pickled gherkins. 
 Serve as you would a ragout. 
 
 2. The remains of any game will do for this. 
 Assuming that we have six ounces of meat free from 
 
 skin, sinew, and bone, take two ounces 
 gam/fi?ed^ of fat of cooked ham and two of bread 
 
 panada, pound the meat with these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, and pass through a hair sieve ; 
 add two eggs, seasoning, and a tablespoonful of game 
 essence, which should be made from the bones in the 
 manner described for the sauce in No. i. Menu i. 
 Now butter ten quenelle-moulds, fill them with the 
 mixture, tapping each on the table to insure even 
 filling, and poach the quenelles very gently as already 
 described. When firm, remove them from the water, 
 and set them to get cold. After this turn them out, 
 flour them, brush them over with egg, and crumb 
 them as described at page 90. Fry in a deep bath of 
 boiling fat till of a golden colour, then drain, dry, 
 sprinkle with salt, and pile in a pyramid upon a hot 
 napkin, fried parsley for garnish, and a sauce a la 
 Gogue (page 2) accompanying. 
 
 3. Out of slices cut from a stale madeira cake 
 stamp neatly nine round croutes two and a half inches 
 
 in diameter and three-eighths of an inch 
 im^aches. thi'^k ; fry them in butter, dust over with 
 
 sifted sugar, and dry in the oven. Let 
 them get cold and then arrange them in a circle in 
 a flat dish. Next, having drained nine half peaches 
 
CANAPkS OF SARDINES. 125 
 
 (preserved) from their syrup, turn the latter to thick 
 glaze with apricot jam, as given at page 34, flavouring 
 it with madeii-a. Let this cool, and then mask the 
 peaches with it. Serve very cold ; cream can of 
 course accompany. 
 
 4. For this take a dozen sardines from the tin, free 
 them from oil by spreading them out apart on a large 
 joint dish, tipping it up on edge and 
 pouring very hot water gently over the ^^ardines °^ 
 fish ; the water will drain downwards, 
 carrying the oil with it. After having done this take 
 up the sardines with a slice, and lay them on a clean, 
 dry cloth. Have ready a dozen pieces of fried bread 
 (cold), a quarter of an inch thick and the length and 
 width of a sardine ; spread butter over each and lay 
 a sardine upon it ; mask with cold mayonnaise sauce, 
 sprinkle over with chopped olives. To dish, lift the 
 canapes with a palette-knife and arrange them in a 
 star pattern with a bunch of watercress in the 
 centre and fillets of beetroot between them. 
 
MENU XXXVIII. 
 
 (October.) 
 
 Grondiu k, la Komaine. 
 
 Escalopes de veau k la Marengo. 
 
 Flamri aux pommes. 
 
 Fetites salades k la DeauvUle.. 
 
 I. Choose a gurnard about a pound and a half in 
 weight, fillet it, and follow the process recommended 
 for the sea-bream in lyienu xxxvii., as far 
 Romahfe^^"' ^^ *^ preparation of the broth is con- 
 cerned, and the cooking of the fish 
 therein. Put the latter under a weight in the same 
 way, and thicken the broth, but without colouring or 
 .adding the tomato. Strain the sauce when it is 
 finished. Have ready four ounces of boiled lasagne 
 (ribbon macaroni) cut into two-inch lengths. Butter 
 a fireproof gratin-dish, arrange a layer of the 
 macaroni upon it, dust grated Parmesan over the 
 layer, and having released the fish fillets lay them 
 over it ; dust with Parmesan, and cover with 
 macaroni ; dust again, and pour in by degrees 
 enough of the sauce to moisten well ; shake a rather 
 thick layer of cheese over the surface, and dot a 
 number of little bits of butter over it ; push the dish 
 into the oven, and when thoroughly hot and nicely 
 
 coloured, serve. 
 
 126 
 
PUREE OF APPLES MOULDED. 127 
 
 2. Out of a slice of the fillet of veal half an inch 
 thick and about a pound and a quarter in weight, 
 trim as many neat pieces as you can about 
 
 two inches long and an inch and a half ^arefJo 
 across; bat them with a cutlet-bat, and 
 put them into an earthenware casserole, with a table- 
 spoonful of salad oil and an ounce of butter, over a 
 low fire ; cook slowly, turning the pieces of meat 
 every now and then so that they may be evenly 
 seized and coloured. When this has been effected, 
 mix in with them a tablespoonful of minced onion, 
 a bouquet garni, and half a pound of sliced tomatoes ; 
 cover the pan closely, and push it into a moderate 
 oven, drawing it to the door of the oven at intervals 
 of a few minutes, and basting the meat with the 
 liquid drawn from it and the tomatoes. Have 
 ready a gill of good brown sauce flavoured with 
 a dessert-spoonful of chablis, and just at the last, 
 when the meat is cooked, stir it into the casserole. 
 Dish as you would dish a ragout, garnished with 
 rolls of fried bacon, and serve with pomtnes de terre 
 sautees. 
 
 3. This must be prepared the evening previously 
 
 with the freshest baking apples. Weigh ten ounces 
 
 of sifted sugar, and choose ten apples each 
 
 about the size of a lawn-tennis ball. Put ^"''^^ "/ 
 
 , , 1 apples 
 
 the sugar into a stewpan (earthenware or moulded. 
 
 enamelled), moisten it with a claret-glass- 
 ful of water and a liqueur-glass of rum ; peel, core, 
 and mdnce the apples, put the pan over a low fire, 
 pass in the mince ; stew very gently, adding the zest 
 
128 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 and juice of a lemon and a saltspoonful of powdered 
 cloves ; when thoroughly hot stir in half an ounce of 
 soaked gelatine, and when the fruit is pulpy pass all 
 through a hair sieve ; wet a border- mould, put it in 
 ice or in a cold larder, pour in the puree, and let it get 
 firm and as cold as possible. Turn out the flamri when 
 wanted, filling the hollow of the mould with whipped 
 cream, and pouring a syrup flavoured with rum and 
 lemon round the outside. 
 
 4. Cut up and cook three dozen fillets of cucumber, 
 stop as soon as you can pass a trussing needle into 
 the vegetable easily, and drain the fillets 
 Little salads gn a sieve. Let them get quite cold, and 
 iiille^ cut them into quarter-inch squares. Pick 
 
 a dozen large prawns from their shells, 
 and cut them into similar pieces. With these fill 
 half a dozen darioles, mixing the two fairly. Melt 
 half a pint of aspic jelly, put it in a bowl over ice and 
 whisk into it half a gill of oil and a dessert-spoonful 
 of vinegar, thus making a mayonnaise collee, adding 
 one yolk to colour it ; immediately it attains the con- 
 sistency of smooth cream pour it into the darioles, 
 setting the prawn and cucumber squares in it over 
 ice. Turn them out when required, and dish in a 
 circle with a garnish of cress or curled endive. 
 
MENU XXXIX. 
 
 (flctoher.') 
 
 (Eufs durs k la Bretonne. 
 
 Fauplettes de boeuf k rEspagnole. 
 
 Salsifis au gratin. 
 
 Compote de bananes au zeste d'orange. 
 
 I. Soak a pint measure of dried white haricot 
 beans during the night in cold water,- drain the 
 next morning, and put them into a casserole 
 or stewpan with a four-ounce onion sliced, Hard-boiled 
 a bouquet garni, a bacon bone or piece of Bretonne. 
 the lean, and a saltspoonful of pepper ; 
 cover well with cold water, set them over a good fire, 
 and boil until they are tender. As soon as this has 
 been done, place a sieve over a basin, and empty the 
 contents of the pan upon the sieve, thus draining off 
 the liquid in which the beans were cooked. Leave 
 the beans on the sieve. Put an ounce of butter into 
 another stewpan, set it over a low fire, and stir in 
 when the butter has melted two ounces of minced 
 onion, fry very gently until the onion turns a pale 
 brown, then mix in an ounce of flour ; when smooth 
 pass in a pint of the beans water which was strained 
 off, bring to the boil, tint with caramel, skim, and 
 pass all through a hair sieve ; pour the sauce into the 
 rinsed-dut stewpan, and stir in the cooked beans from 
 which the bouquet, onion, and bacon bone have been 
 
 10 129 
 
I30 FIFTY LUNCHES.. 
 
 removed ; heat up gently without boiling, then dish 
 in a legumiere, arranging eight halves of hot hard- 
 boiled eggs on the surface just before serving. 
 
 2. For this dish you want six slices of uncooked 
 tender beef not more than a quarter of an inch thick, 
 
 four and a half inches long, and three 
 Paupiettesof^[^Q_ The butcher should cut these to 
 brown sauce, order. Lay them, out on a board, brush 
 
 over their upper sides with beaten egg, 
 season with pepper and salt, and spread over them 
 the following farce, which should be mixed separately 
 in a bowl : — Two ounces of bread crumb, half an 
 ounce of minced blanched onion, a saltspoonful of 
 powdered rosemary, one of powdered marjoram, one 
 ounce of minced mushroom, a dessert-spoonful of 
 minced parsley, half an ounce of fat of ham minced 
 small, and one whole egg. This must not lie too thickly 
 on the beef, neither should it be carried further than 
 within half an inch of the edges of the slices. Next 
 roll the pieces of meat over, enveloping the farce, and 
 secure each roll with two pieces of string. Butter a 
 deep saute-pan (having, a cover), or a. fricandeau-pa.n, 
 with an ounce of butter, and lay over it two ounces 
 each of onion, carrot, and turnip finely minced, the 
 stalks and peelings of a quarter of a pound of mush- 
 rooms minced, and seasoning ; set over a low fire, 
 put in the paupiettes, and fry so as to seize and colour 
 them {/aire revenir) ; then moisten to half their depth 
 with broth, cover closely, push the pan into a mode- 
 rate oven, and cook gently there, basting every now 
 and then with the cuisson in the pan. As soon as 
 
SALSIFY AU GRATIN. 131 
 
 tender take out the paupieUes, lay them in a pyramid 
 on a veiy hot silver dish, and cover closely. Strain 
 off the broth, add a gill of tomato sauce or conserve, 
 and pass it into a stewpan in which a roux of half an 
 ounce of butter and half one of flour has been prepared 
 to receive it. Bring this to the boil, skim, pass it 
 through a pointed strainer over the paupiettes, and 
 serve, garnishing with turned potatoes arranged in a 
 chain round the outer edge. 
 
 3. Scorsonera — the black salsify — is a better vege- 
 table than the white, but is not so easily got. This 
 dish is designed for the latter. Half a 
 bundle will be enough. Choose nice |;'jji£ ""^ 
 pieces, wash, scrape, and trim them an 
 equal length, cutting off the thin ends, and casting 
 them into cold water in which a dessert-spoonful of 
 vinegar has been mixed. Have ready on the fire in 
 a stewpan a pint of uncoloured broth, or milk and 
 water in half and half proportions, and half an ounce 
 of butter ; bring this to the boil, slip in the salsify, 
 partly cover the pan, and simmer till the vegetable is 
 tender ; then drain it, arrange the pieces neatly on a 
 flat grati7t-dish, thicken half a pint of the cuisson, add 
 a dessert-spoonful of cream, mask the salsify with it, 
 strew grated Parmesan over the surface, and set the 
 dish in the oven till heated and coloured, serving 
 with a garnish of croutons or biscuits of savoury 
 short-paste, No. 4, Menu iv. 
 
 N.B. — In the case of black salsify cook the roots 
 without cutting and peeling, reserving trimming until 
 afterwards, when they are cold. 
 
132 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 4. Peel a dozen ripe bananas, scrape off their fibre. 
 
 Have ready on the fire in an earthenware or enamelled 
 
 „ , J , pan a hot syrup — three gills of water, six 
 Compote of ^ r jii.2i ij-j 
 
 bananas ounces of sugar, and the finely peeled nnd 
 
 with the zest of two oranges with their juice. As soon 
 
 as the bananas are trimmed plunge them 
 
 into boiling water, drain at once, and transfer them 
 
 to the syrup, which now remove from the fire. Let 
 
 the bananas marinade in the syrup for an hour, then 
 
 take them out, lay them in a china bowl over ice, 
 
 strain and reduce this syrup, cool it, pour it over the 
 
 fruit, and serve with whipped cream. 
 
MENU XL. 
 
 (October.') 
 
 Loup-de-mer k la Dubois. 
 
 Noisettes de lapin au celeri. 
 
 Pommes en surprise. 
 
 Darioles k la Calaisienne 
 
 I. About a pound and a half of hake having been 
 
 procured in slices not moi-e than half an inch thick, 
 
 lay them upon a joint dish, season them 
 
 with salt, pour two tablespoonfuls of salad ^"^^ ™''* 
 
 ., ,, , 1 ii ■ ■ r i horse-radish 
 
 Oil over them, add the juice of a lemon, sauce. 
 
 cover with coarsely chopped parsley, and 
 
 let them lie in this marinade half an hour ; then turn 
 
 them, continuing the process another half hour. Now 
 
 lift the slices, drain, and dry them on a cloth, flour 
 
 them, brush them over with an egg beaten up with a 
 
 teaspoonful of the marinade, and then turn them over 
 
 upon a cloth containing a couple of breakfast-cupfuls 
 
 of finely sifted oven-dried crumbs. Let the crumbing 
 
 dry well before proceeding to fry the fish, which 
 
 must of course be done piece by piece in boiling fat 
 
 deep enough to cover them. Serve with this sauce : — 
 
 Put a coffee-cupful of horse-radish raspings into half 
 
 a pint of milk, boil up, season with salt, and simmer 
 
 ten minutes ; then strain the milk into a bowl, stir two 
 
 eggs into it, and turn it to a custard over a vessel 
 
 containing boiling water ; finish with a teaspoonful 
 
 of reduced vinegar. 
 
 133 
 
134 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 2. Take the flesh off the bones of a nice rabbit. 
 Put the former aside ; break up the latter, and put 
 
 them into a stewpan with four ounces of 
 
 Fillets of onions, three each of carrots, turnips, and 
 rabbit with , , i- , j_ ■ ■ i i. 
 
 celery. leeks, a muslm bag contammg a dessert- 
 
 spoonful of dried herbs, an ounce of celery 
 and one of parsley, and a seasoning of salt and mig- 
 nonette pepper ; pour in sufficient cold water to cover 
 well ; put over a low fire, boil up, skim, and simmer 
 for a couple of hours. Strain the broth off, rinse out 
 the stewpan, return the broth to it, set it on the fire, 
 and bring to the boil. Now put in the rabbit meat 
 cut into neat pieces, and three heads of young celery 
 each cut in half lengthwise ; cover the pan, and 
 simmer very gently for an hour and a quarter. By 
 this time the rabbit and celery should be done ; strain 
 off the broth, arrange the former on a hot dish, and 
 cover them up while you rapidly thicken the broth in 
 a stewpan with a roiix ready to receive it made of an 
 ounce of butter and an dunce of flour ; bring to the 
 boil, skim, stir in a tablespoonful of cream, and pour 
 through a strainer over the rabbit and celery, garnish 
 with rolls of fi'ied bacon, and serve. Unless com- 
 menced quite early in the morning the broth should 
 be made on the previous day. 
 
 3. Make a pound of puff pastry and roll it out 
 thinly. Choose six cooking apples of equal size, say 
 
 the size of a lawn-tennis ball or a little 
 pastry cases, larger, pare them neatly, and with a tube 
 
 cutter an inch wide cut straight through 
 the centre of each, thus forming a hollow right 
 
LITTLE MOULDS OF SHRIMP PURAe. 135 
 
 through the apple and removing the core. Cut the 
 pastry into six squares, set an apple in the centre of 
 each, brush all the apples over with melted butter, 
 pow^der them -well with sugar, and fill the hollows with 
 apricot jam flavoured with any liqueur you like ; now 
 damp the edges of the squares of paste, draw them 
 together at the top of the apples, fixing them securely, 
 and covering the joining with leaves cut out of the 
 paste. Arrange the apples upon a buttered baldng- 
 sheet, brush them over with beaten egg, and bake 
 them in a gentle oven three-quarters of an hour. 
 Dust over with sugar, and serve on a hot napkin. 
 
 4. Make a custard with half a pint of boiled milk 
 and three eggs, stir in half an ounce of soaked gela- 
 tine, strain through a sieve, and add a 
 paste made of a gill measure of picked moulds of 
 shrimps pounded with four fillets of shrimp 
 anchovy ; mix thoroughly, put in a table- ^ 
 spoonful of Devonshire cream, set the dariole-moulds 
 in ice, fill them with the mixture, and when cold and 
 firm turn them out. Dish in a circle decorated with 
 curled endive. 
 
MENU XLI. 
 
 {November.') 
 
 (Eufs poch^s b. la Gounod. 
 
 Cdtelettes de pore, sauce Robert. 
 
 Chou fris^ au riz. 
 
 Macaronade a I'Alg^riemie. 
 
 1. With a round cutter two and a quarter inches 
 in diameter stamp out six rounds of bread three- 
 eighths of an inch thick ; fry in butter, 
 
 wUktongi^' and keep them hot on a wire drainer in 
 the mouth of the oven ; with a two-inch 
 cutter stamp out six rounds a quarter-inch thick of 
 cold cooked tongue ; warm these in thick brown 
 sauce with a shght marsala flavour, and poach six 
 eggs very carefully. Arrange the crotites on a flat 
 silver dish, put a round of hot tongue upon each, 
 trim, and lay a poached egg on the surface of the 
 tongue, mask with the brown sauce, and serve gar- 
 nished with watercress. 
 
 2. The cutlets, nicely trimmed, should be grilled, 
 paper frills should be slipped over the ends of the 
 
 bones, and they should be arranged round 
 
 Pork cutlets ^ pyramid of mashed potato garnished 
 
 'wtth swucc A c3 
 
 Robert. with a dozen small tomatoes that have 
 
 been cooked in the oven on a buttered 
 baking-tin, well basted during the cooking with 
 
 136 
 
CURLED CABBAGE WITH RICE. 137 
 
 melted butter, and dusted over finally with grated 
 cheese. Sauce Robert should be made as follows : — 
 Chop up two ounces of mild onion and fry gently in 
 a casserole over a low fire in half an ounce of butter ; 
 stop before colouring commences, and pour in a gill 
 of chabUs, sauterne, or hock ; continue the cooking 
 till the wine is reduced and forms a glaze, then pour 
 in by degrees two gills of good broth, increase the 
 heat, and when the liquid is near boiling-point add a 
 large teaspoonful of cornflour diluted with broth ; 
 boil now for five minutes and skim, tint with caramel, 
 lastly adding a large teaspoonful of mustard mixed 
 with tarragon vinegar ; strain at once after this into a 
 hot sauce-boat, and serve. 
 
 3. Cut a small savoy cabbage in four pieces, soak 
 them in cold salted water half an hour, then plunge 
 them into boiling salted water, and keep Curled 
 at that temperature for ten minutes ; next cabbage 
 turn them out upon a sieve, which place '^' 
 under a tap of cold water, and as soon as the hot 
 water has drained away " refresh " the pieces of 
 cabbage with a douche from the tap, and when thus 
 cooled press all moisture out of them. Prepare a 
 stewpan of a size just large enough to hold the 
 cabbage nicely, line it with slices of uncooked bacon 
 and a three-ounce onion cut into thin rings, arrange 
 the pieces of cabbage over that bed, and moisten just 
 level with their tops with hot broth, cover with 
 buttered paper, and place the pan over a low fire, 
 simmering gently for a couple of hours. As this is 
 proceeding boil four ounces of best Patna rice in the 
 
138 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 manner described at page 3, adding, after returning 
 it to the dry hot pan,' an ounce of butter, a dusting of 
 salt and pepper, and a heajbed-up tablespoonful of 
 grated Parmesan. Keep this hot closely covered in 
 the bain-marie. When the cabbage pieces are done 
 drain them, arrange them on a very hot dish, cover 
 them, and quickly thicken three gills of the strained 
 broth ; as soon as this is done put the rice in a circle 
 round the cabbage, pour the sauce over the latter 
 through a strainer, and serve, with grated IParmesan 
 accompanying. For abstinence days milk may be 
 substituted for meat broth and butter for the bacon 
 in cooking the cabbage. 
 
 4. Select three dozen large dates, wash them, dry 
 them with a cloth, pick out their stones, lay them in 
 
 an earthenware or enamelled stewpan with 
 Dates in ^-^q ounces of sugar, the finely peeled rind 
 macaroons. 3-1''^ juice of a lemon, a stick of cinnamon, 
 
 and just sufficient light claret to cover 
 them ; bring nearly to the boil, and then simmer 
 gently, turning the fruit occasionally until it is soft 
 and nearly all the liquid absorbed. When this has 
 been done let the dates get cold in the pan. To 
 finish, set a china dish over ice or in a cold larder, 
 and arrange the dates upon it ; over them place a layer 
 of macaroons that have been marinaded with liqueur, 
 and pour over all gently by degrees a pint of rich 
 custard flavoured with vanilla with which an ounce 
 of gelatine has been dissolved. Set the layer of dates 
 first, then the macaroons, and lastly pour in the rest. 
 Whipped cream may be laid over the surface. 
 
MENU XLII. 
 
 (November.) 
 
 CooLuilles aux bultres st, la Momay. 
 Langue de veau k la V^nitienne. 
 
 Mousse de topinambourG. 
 Omelette sucr^e aux plstaclies. 
 
 I. Six silver or china scallop-shells being available, 
 
 or one large one, make a coarse mince of any nice 
 
 cold cooked fish — turbot, brill, cod, or 
 
 other white fish, six good tablespoonfuls Oyster 
 
 , . i_ /-. i. J r scallops a la 
 
 being enough. Get a dozen fine sauce Momay. 
 
 oysters with their liquid, and have ready 
 
 three gills of fish broth. Prepare the oysters in this 
 
 way : — Put them with their liquid into the fish broth 
 
 (cold) over a rather low fire, watch closely and at the 
 
 first indication of boiling draw the pan away, let the 
 
 oysters remain two minutes in the warm broth, then 
 
 drain them, trim off their beards, and place them 
 
 ready with the minced fish. Next thicken the 
 
 strained broth with half an ounce of butter and half 
 
 an ounce of flour ; boil, skim, and reduce this till it 
 
 coats the spoon ; then butter the shells and lay in 
 
 the mince, allowing three oysters for each shell. 
 
 Now add a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan to the 
 
 sauce, and use it for moistening the mince. Dust 
 
 Parmesan over the surfaces of the shells, heat in the 
 
 oven, taking care to avoid burning or exhausting the 
 
140 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 moisture, and then serve on a folded napkin garnished 
 with parsley. 
 
 2. Having trimmed a good-sized fresh calf's tongue, 
 soak it in cold water for an hour, then put it into a 
 
 casserole or stewpan, and cover it with hot 
 Calf's tongue broth, bring to the point of boiUng, and 
 tienne. '' then slip into the pan three ounces each 
 
 of onions, carrots, turnips, and leeks, all 
 cut into small dice, an ounce of celery, a bag con- 
 taining a dessert-spoonful of dried herbs, and season- 
 ing ; simmer for about three hours, then take out 
 the tongue, and strain off the broth. At once, while 
 it is hot, scrape off the skin of the tongue and put 
 it away. This should be done the day before or 
 quite early on the day itself. Having taken the fat 
 off the broth, proceed to thicken three gills of it, 
 bring to the boil, skim, and add half a gill of marsala. 
 Next, having sliced up the cold tongue (or vvarm, as 
 the case may be) in slices three-eighths of an inch 
 thick and placed them in a casserole, strain the sauce 
 over them, adding a gill of tomato sauce or puree. 
 Let them marinade in this till wanted, when set the 
 pan over a low fire and gently warm the tongue as 
 you would a ragout. When hot take out the pieces 
 of tongue, arrange them on a hot silver dish in a line 
 overlapping each other, pour the sauce over them, 
 and garnish with a ring of glazed button onions, 
 Jerusalem artichokes, Brussels sprouts, or any nice 
 garnish. 
 
 3. Boil and simmer a pound and a half of young 
 
SWEET OMELETTE WITH PISTACHIO NUTS. 141 
 
 Jerusalem artichokes in just enough milk to cover 
 them ; when tender strain off the milk, 
 and pass the artichokes through a hair Mould of 
 sieve ; custardise half a pint of the milk artichokes. 
 with three eggs, and as it cools pass the 
 ftiree into it ; season with pepper and salt, and add 
 a gill of whipped cream ; butter a plain charlotte- 
 mould, line it with buttered paper, pour the mixture 
 into it and steam gently about three-quarters of an 
 hour. Turn out the mould when it is set, and mask 
 with Milanaise sauce. 
 
 4. Peel and pound with a dessert-spoonful of noyeau, 
 or any liqueur that may be available, one ounce of 
 pistachio nuts ; blend with them four rata- 
 fias that have been crushed to powder ; Sweet omc- 
 add an ounce of sugar, and just enough taMo nuts' 
 syrup flavoured with the liqueur to bring 
 the puree to the consistence of jam ; warm this gently 
 and pass it into an omelette, made as described in 
 the Appendix for sweet omelette, at the time indi- 
 cated for the addition of jam. 
 
MENU XLIII 
 (November.) 
 
 Timbale de morue. 
 Petit-sal6 k la Wyvern. 
 Navets k la mar^cbale. 
 
 CroQLuettes de riz. 
 
 1. Boil three ounces of spaghetti for ten minutes 
 
 only, drain, and spread it out upon a joint dish. 
 
 Butter a plain pint charlotte-mould well, 
 Timbale of ^^^^ j^j. ^^^ ^^^^^^j. gg^ cold all round the 
 
 top and sides of the mould ; then, direct- 
 ing it with a trussing needle, line the top and sides with 
 the spaghetti, coiling it in circles round the former, 
 and setting it in layers like the straw hoops in a bee- 
 hive all round the sides. When the mould is lined, 
 fill it with a mixture made exactly like that given for 
 the fish creams in Menu ii., substituting codiish for 
 the whiting in these proportions : — Eight ounces of 
 Cod, three of butter, and three of bread panada, three 
 whole eggs, half a gill of fish broth, and a tablespoon- 
 ful of cream with seasoning. Steam the timbale very 
 gently for about three-quarters of an hour, and when 
 firmly set turn it out, wipe off the butter which will 
 cling to the spaghetti, and serve garnished with 
 parsley. Sauce hollandaise may accompany. 
 
 2. This way of serving a nice piece of boiled 
 
RICE CROQUETTES. I43 
 
 pickled pork has been tried and approved of. Dish 
 
 the piece of meat when it is ready on a 
 
 flat dish, arrange round it a ring of white ?^'lf'\ ^ ^^ 
 
 haricots, cooked as described for No. i, withharicots. 
 
 Menu xxxix., but moistened with white 
 
 sauce made with their cuisson and garnished with 
 
 chopped parsley, and mask the pork with freshly 
 
 made tomato sauce mixed somewhat stiffly. 
 
 3. Choose four four-ounce turnips, pare, and cut 
 them in sUces about the thickness of a halfpenny, 
 trim these in rounds or ovals as much the 
 
 same size as possible, drop them one by Baked 
 one into cold water, and when all are mar/chale. 
 ready drain and turn them out upon a 
 clean cloth to dry ; butter a saute-pan with two 
 ounces of butter, set it over a low fire, and lay the 
 turnip slices in it, moving them about till turning a 
 pale gold colour ; then lift and arrange them in a 
 buttered fireproof china baking-dish in layers, dusting 
 them with grated Parmesan, and when the dish is 
 filled moisten the whole with sauce Milanaise, page 
 89 ; cover the surface with grated cheese, and pour 
 the butter out of the saute-pan over it. Push the 
 dish into a moderate oven and bake until it is 
 coloured and you can easily pass a skewer through the 
 slices of turnip. Serve in the dish laid on a napkin. 
 
 4. Blanch six ounces of Carohna rice in boiling 
 water for five minutes, then drain and 
 transfer it to another stewpan containing f^gq^^^ffgs 
 a quart of boiling milk, four ounces of 
 
 sifted sugar, an ounce of butter, and the zest of a lemon. 
 
144 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 Simmer now for an hour over a low fire, remove the 
 pan, and when the rice is cool, having absorbed 
 nearly the whole of the milk, break into it two whole 
 eggs, mix well, and spread it out upon a dish to a 
 thickness of an inch and a half. When cold and 
 firm cut the mass into pieces an inch wide and one 
 and a half long. Strew a pastry board over with 
 crumbled ratafias that have been grated, or pounded 
 and sifted ; put the portions of rice upon this bed, 
 and roll them in cork shapes, then dip them in well- 
 beaten egg and crumb them with the same crumbs. 
 Fry when quite dry in a deep bath of boiling fat till 
 a golden colour, and drain afterwards on a wire 
 drainer laid on a sheet of brown paper in front of 
 the fire ; then dust them liberally with sifted sugar, 
 and serve with hot apricot syrup~ sauce, flavoured 
 with rum and lemon. An easy luncheon dish if the 
 rice be prepared the day before or very early in the 
 morning, to allow of its getting cold. 
 
MENU XLIV. 
 
 {Noveviber.) 
 
 (Eufs aux hultres k la Mathurin. 
 
 Quasi de veau a la pMerine. 
 
 Chartreuse de pScbes. 
 
 Croustades au merlucbe fum^e. 
 
 1. Prepare a dozen and a half sauce oysters as 
 explained for No. i, Menu xlii. Boil four eggs hard, 
 cool them in cold water, and remove their 
 
 shells. Fry in half an ounce of butter an Hard-boiled 
 ounce and a half of minced shallot ; as oi^ters. 
 soon as slightly coloured stir in half an 
 ounce of flour, mix well, and moisten with the oyster 
 broth, half a gill of chablis and half a gill of tomato 
 puree or sauce ; boil up, skim, and strain through a 
 hair sieve. Now butter a fireproof china dish, slice 
 up the hard-boiled eggs, arrange them in the dish, 
 cut the oysters in halves, after having removed their 
 beards, and lay them over the eggs ; moisten all 
 with the sauce, warm in the oven till as hot as 
 possible, and serve with sippets of fried bread 
 arranged round the dish. 
 
 2. Bone a piece of the chump end of a loin of veal, 
 stuff it with the stuffing given for No. 2, Menu xxxix., 
 and cook it in the manner described for breast of 
 veal, Menu viii. When done, take out the meat, dish 
 it on a hot dish and cover it closely ; strain off the 
 
 II '45 
 
146 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 broth, skim off the fat, and having a roux ready in 
 a stewpan of an ounce each of butter and flour, pro- 
 . ceed to thicken it, adding the chopped 
 
 chump end stalks and peelings of half a pound of 
 of veal with mushrooms ; bring to the boil, skim, and 
 strain the sauce over the piece of meat, 
 garnishing with the mushrooms which yielded the 
 trimmings separately broiled. 
 
 3. Very easily made with preserved peaches. Take 
 a pound tin, strain off the syrup into a clean sauce- 
 pan, put into it two tablespoonfuls of 
 
 Chartreuse apricot jam, the juice of a lemon, a glass 
 of sherry or madeira, or a liqueur-glass of 
 liqueur ; warm gently over the fire, adding half an 
 ounce of soaked gelatine ; when this has dissolved 
 pass the whole through a clean hair sieve reserved 
 for sweet cookery. Now set a mould in ice, arrange 
 a pattern at the top according to fancy and set it 
 with a little of the syrup ; when set arrange a layer 
 of peaches, set it in like manner, and continue the 
 process until the mould is filled ; turn it out when it 
 is wanted, and serve with whipped cream. If set in 
 a border-mould the cream can be put in the centre, 
 with minced preserved cherries scattered over it. 
 
 4. Make the croustades cases as explained for No. 
 
 4, Menu vi. Take eight ounces of the 
 Cream of flesh of a smoked haddock after having 
 
 stuoficci lidcL- 
 
 dock in cases, poached the fish till nicely softened, picked 
 
 out all bones and removed all skin. Pound 
 
 this in a mortar with an ounce of butter to a paste. 
 
CREAM OF SMOKED HADDOCK IN CASES. 147 
 
 passing it all through a hair sieve ; moisten the paste 
 with half a gill of milk, the yolks of two eggs, and a 
 tablespoonful of cream, seasoning with salt, Nepaul 
 pepper, and a dust of mace. Thicken the mixture as 
 you would make a custard in a bowl over a vessel 
 containing hot water, and just when wanted heat the 
 empty croustades, fill them with the mixture, sprinkle 
 the surfaces with chopped olives, and serve on a hot 
 napkin. Do not fill the cases too soon or the paste 
 will be sodden. 
 
MENU XLV. 
 
 (December.') 
 
 Foisson St. Pierre k la Kouennaiae. 
 
 T£te de cochon aux choux de Bruzelles. 
 
 Riz froid aux aI)ricotB. 
 
 Boucb^es k la Norv^gieime. 
 
 1. Remove the flesh of a small John Dory in two 
 fillets ; make a strong broth of the head and bones as 
 
 previously described ; dry with flour, egg 
 John Dory and bread-crumb the fillets after shaping 
 naise. ' each neatly. Make a sauce with two gills 
 
 of the broth and one gill of tomato puree, 
 boihng up, skimming, and reducing it till creamy and 
 well flavoured ; fry the fillets in boiling fat, drain, 
 dry, sprinkle with salt ; dish on a hot dish garnished 
 with olives farcies and parsley, with the sauce in a 
 boat. 
 
 2. Choose half a young pig's head, fresh. Put it 
 into boiling broth with the vegetables, seasoning, 
 
 &c., given for the breast of veal. Menu 
 ^7fc r'^"'* viii., and simmer until sufficiently tender 
 sprouts. fo admit of the easy removal of the bones. 
 
 Having done this, put the meat under a 
 weight ; cool the strained broth, and remove all fat. 
 Next turn a pint and a half of the latter to a sauce 
 with a roux of an ounce and a half of butter and the 
 
LAX BOUCHEES. 149 
 
 same of flour, add to it the chopped peelings and 
 stalks of half a pound of mushrooms, boil up, skim, 
 and simmer ten minutes, after which strain off the 
 sauce. Now cut the meat of the head into neat 
 pieces, put them into a stewpan, cover with the 
 warm broth, put in the mushrooms which yielded 
 the trimmings, and simmer over a low fire till the 
 meat is perfectly tender and the mushrooms done. 
 Arrange a border of Brussels sprouts on a hot dish, 
 put the pieces of meat in the centre, boil up, skim 
 the sauce once more, sharpen it with a squeeze of 
 lemon juice, and pour it through a strainer over the 
 latter. This will be found as nice in every respect as 
 a calf's head. 
 
 3. Prepare six ounces of Carolijia rice as described 
 
 for No. 4, Menu xliii., with this exception — when 
 
 you take it off the fire turn it into a china 
 
 or silver dish, cool, and later on set it Compote of 
 
 ytcc 'wttft 
 over ice, turning it about with a silver apricots. 
 
 fork as you stir into it a gill of cream ; 
 
 upon this bed lay as many preserved apricots, cut in 
 
 halves, as will cover it, mask the layer with a syrup 
 
 flavoured and thickened in the manner given for 
 
 No. 4, Menu xxxvi., cover that with whipped cream, 
 
 and serve. 
 
 4. Make a custard as described for No. 4, Menu v., 
 but without separating the yolks from the 
 whites— using four whole eggs, seasoning, ^",^,^^^^^ 
 and two tablespoonfuls of cream. Pour 
 
 this into buttered bouchee-iaoulds two inches in 
 
ISO FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 diameter, and steam until set. Let them get cold in 
 the moulds, and then with a vegetable scoop hollow 
 them out as cups, but leaving enough margin to 
 make sure of their not breaking. Fill these hollows 
 with lax puree, rather stiffly worked, garnish with an 
 olive farcie, and serve upon a bed of broken aspic, 
 or, the part scooped out having been passed through 
 a wire sieve, may be scattered over the dish as a 
 carpet, the bouchees being arranged in a circle over 
 it, and a thin veil of well-dried garden cress scattered 
 over all. For lax puree, take two ounces of the fish, 
 free it from oil, and pound it with a couple of filleted 
 anchovies, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and two 
 ounces of butter, season with Nepaul pepper and a 
 pinch of mace, pass through a hair sieve, and use. 
 
MENU XLVI. 
 
 (December.') 
 
 (Eufs en baril au pur^e de faisan. 
 
 Dinde k la Chevali^re. 
 
 Chottz de Bruxelles k la WyTem. 
 
 Beignets k la Noel. 
 
 1. Peel and slice off the ends of six hard-boiled 
 
 eggs so that when set upright they will look like little 
 
 barrels : then with a tube-cutter remove _ , , 
 ,' , , ,, , , . ,. , Barrels of 
 
 the yolks, and set the barrels in a dish eggs with 
 
 over ice ; next fiU the hollows with phea- pheasant 
 
 'btivdc 
 sant puree slightly diluted with jellied 
 
 sauce, and lay a disc of cooked truffle on the top of 
 each. With the removed yolks make the sauce given 
 for No. I, Menu xxxii. Garnish the dish with broken 
 aspic jeUy and curls of celery. The proportions for six 
 barrels should be four large tablespoonfuls of minced 
 pheasant mixed with two tablespoonfuls of strongly 
 reduced sauce made on the lines of sauce a la 
 Gogue (page 2), with which (during the cooking of 
 the broth) a quarter ounce of gelatine has been dis- 
 solved. Let the salad sauce, quite cold, accompany 
 the dish in a boat. 
 
 2. A very good rechauffe. Pick separately the 
 white meat from the remains of a cold turkey — 
 about twelve ounces, freed from skin, xurkey a la 
 sinew, and bone enough — and pass it Chevalihc. 
 
 151 
 
1 52 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 through the mincing machine ; out of the meat 
 of one thigh and drumstick trim as many neat little 
 fillets as you can, adding any little trimmings 
 there may be to the mince. With the bones make 
 a pint of broth as described for No. 2, Menu v., 
 and with it prepare a sauce in the same way. To 
 finish the dish, put the mince into a stewpan and 
 dilute it with just sufficient of the sauce to bring 
 it to the consistency of jam, warming the whole 
 gently over a low fire. As for the fillets, dip them 
 into the sauce and roll them in finely pounded crumbs, 
 frying them a golden yellow in boiling fat. Dish the 
 mince inside a circle of mashed potato, arranging 
 the fillets round the outside of it, alternated with 
 rolls of crisply- fried bacon, and let the remainder of 
 the sauce, heated up to steaming-point, be served in 
 a boat. 
 
 3. Choose the Brussels sprouts for this dish of the 
 
 same size, trim them neatly, and plunge them into 
 
 boiling salted water in 3 non-tinned vessel 
 
 JjViisscIs 
 
 sprotits for three minutes, then drain them in a 
 
 Wyvcm's colander. Next take a fricandeau-pan or 
 lai-ge satite-pnn with a cover, the object 
 being to get a wide but shallow vessel in which the 
 sprouts can be well spread out. In this melt an 
 ounce and a half of butter, and, for a pound of 
 sprouts, stir in four 1 ounces of finely minced Spanish 
 onion ; fry this gently over a low fire until the onion 
 atoms are soft but not coloured, then lay the drained 
 sprouts over them, and moisten with sufficient broth 
 to cover nicely, simmer very gently till the vegetables 
 
PLUM-CAKE FRITTERS. 153 
 
 are done, then, with a trussing needle, take the sprouts 
 out of the pan, setting them on a dish aside for the 
 present. Pass the broth through a hair sieve with 
 the softened onion, return it to the rinsed-out pan, 
 set it on the fire, and thicken it slightly with a tea- 
 spoonful of rice or cornflour, bringing it to the boil 
 when you do so ; skim, draw the pan back, add two 
 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan, a tablespoonful 
 of cream, and the sprouts. Warm gently, and serve 
 in a legumiere with sippets of fried bread. 
 
 4. Cut neatly out of slices of cold plum pudding, 
 three-eighths of an inch thick, a number of oblongs — 
 say two and a half inches long and one 
 and a quarter across. Make the batter f'H'^rt"'^ 
 given at page 16, sweetening it with an 
 ounce of powdered sugar, and adding a liqueur-glass 
 of brandy with the squeeze of a lemon. , Marinade 
 the pieces of pudding with sugar, lemon-juice, and a 
 few drops of brandy. When the time arrives for 
 their preparation for the table, lift the pieces with 
 a sUce, and lay them on a clean, dry cloth, finish off 
 the batter with the whipped white, dip the pieces 
 into it, and pass them into a bath of boiling fat. 
 Then drain, dry, and serve in a hot dish, sprinkled 
 with powdered sugar. This is a good sauce : — Beat 
 two ounces of sifted sugar with eight ounces of butter 
 to a cream, add a liqueur-glass of brandy, sheny, or 
 madeira, keep it in a cool larder, and serve in a cold 
 sauce-boat. 
 
MENU XLVII. 
 
 (December.') 
 
 Br6me-de-meT k, la MontreuU. 
 
 Escalopes de li^vre k la Czarine. 
 
 Fommes aux fruits ^ la Farisienne. 
 
 Croustades de truffes. 
 
 I. This dish may be made with any white fish. I 
 take sea-bream for a change. Remove the flesh of a 
 fish weighing a pound or pound and a 
 Sea^ream a quarter in one long piece from each side. 
 Make three gills of broth with the bones, 
 using milk for the moistening. Cook the fillets in this 
 as explained for poached salmon, Menu vii. ; set them 
 aside under a weight, and strain in the broth. Thicken 
 this with three-quarters of an ounce of butter and the 
 same of flour, skim, add half a pot of Ruff's cream of 
 lobster, stir well over the fire, and strain through a 
 hair sieve. Return the sauce to the rinsed-out stew- 
 pan, and, setting it over a quick fire, bring to the 
 boil, reducing one-third of its quantity, and stirring 
 continually till that has been effected. Now butter 
 a gratin-dish, and having trimmed each fillet neatly 
 in an oval form, lay them side by side upon it ; mask 
 them with the sauce, smoothing it with a palette- 
 knife, push the dish into the oven to heat thoroughly, 
 then garnish all round with separately cooked balls 
 of potato cut with an inch scoop, and serve. 
 
 154 
 
APPLES WITH FRUIT A LA PARISIENNE. 155 
 
 2. Prepare as many neat fillets as the back of a 
 hare will yield in the manner described for the 
 cutlets in No. i, Menu i. Make a pint 
 
 of hare broth in the same way, and f^^tS^ 
 strain when it is ready. Now lay the 
 fillets in a saute-pan, moisten with enough of the 
 broth just to come level with their surfaces, cover, 
 and stew very gently till tender. While this is pro- 
 ceeding, stew a dozen and a half chestnuts in the 
 way given at page 52, using the remainder of the 
 hare broth for the moistening. When both are 
 ready pile the hare fillets in the centre of a hot 
 entree-dish, arrange the chestnuts in a circle round 
 them, and keep them hot while, with a roux pre- 
 pared beforehand, you thicken the two broths 
 blended ; boil, skim, and pour through a strainer 
 over the fillets, serving at once. 
 
 3. Pare, quarter, and core six good-sized cooking 
 apples, put them in a stewpan, and cover them with 
 three gills of weak syrup, adding the ^^^^^^ ^.^,^ 
 juice and zest of a lemon and a few fruit d la 
 drops of cochineal. Set over a low fire, ^«'''S2«»"«. 
 and simmer gently till just tender. Make a border 
 of rice in a pint border-mould with a hollow rim, 
 sweetening, and flavouring the rice with lemon. 
 Cut one good-sized apple into quarter-inch squares, 
 also cut up a pear in the same way, and when the 
 quarters of apple have been cooked sufficiently and 
 removed from the syrup, put the little squares into it 
 and stew them in like manner. Have ready a mince 
 cut from two crystallised apricots and two greengages, 
 
iS6 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 and choose a dozen preserved cherries. When the 
 squares are ready, strain off the syrup, putting the 
 former with the minced apricot and greengage. Now 
 put the syi'up into a stewpan with a tablespoonful of 
 apricot jam and a liqueur- glass of kirsch ; boil, 
 adding a teaspoonful of rice-flour, straining it ofE 
 through a hair sieve when it is ready. Now, having 
 kept the rice in its mould in a cold place, and having 
 the apple quarters, the mince, and ,syrup also cold, 
 turn out the former upon a glass dish, fill the hollow 
 with the mince, and pile the apple quarters dome- 
 wise over all, pour the syrup over this, and dot the 
 cherries over the surface tastefully, using a trussing 
 needle for the operation. Cream should be handed 
 round with this. 
 
 4. Six medium-sized uncooked truffles will be 
 required for this, and six little oval tartelette-cases 
 
 made out of the paste described at 
 pasiy^ases. P^g^ ^^- Clean carefully, pare, and cook 
 
 the truffles in enough chicken broth and 
 sauterne in half and half proportions to cover them, 
 putting in with them two ounces of minced onion, a 
 teaspoonful of herbs, and a piece of garlic the size 
 of a small pea in a muslin bag, and half an ounce of 
 butter ; boil for ten minutes, and let the truffles get 
 cold in the liquid ; then take them out and cut them 
 into little squares or slices, thicken the broth, adding 
 half an ounce of glaze or a gill of pure meat gravy, 
 boil, skim, and strain into another stewpan, put in the 
 truffles, heat up gently, heat the cases also, fill them, 
 and serve immediately as hot as possible. 
 
MENU XLVIII. 
 
 (December.') 
 
 (EufB dim k la mode de Caen. 
 
 "Dry curry." 
 
 Haricots k la LlToumaise. 
 
 Marmelade de poznmes. 
 
 1. Take a six-ounce Spanish onion, peel, divide it 
 in halves, lay them on a board and cross-cut them 
 in slices three-eighths of an inch thick, fjard-boiled 
 Plunge these into boiling water for iive e^s, Caen 
 minutes, then drain, spreading them out f"'^^i°"- 
 
 on a clean cloth. Melt an ounce of butter in a stew- 
 pan, put in the blanched onions, stir over a low fire 
 till soft but without browning them, then mix in half 
 an ounce of flour and three gills of broth or milk, 
 with a seasoning of salt, pepper, and mace ; stir gently 
 over the fire for twenty minutes, then lay irt four hard- 
 boiled eggs cut into slices, and three ounces of cooked 
 ham trimmed in julienne-like shreds. Dish in a 
 legumiere, garnished with sippets of fried bread. 
 
 2. Select any meat you like,, or a chicken, for this, 
 and proceed as directed in the Appendix, marking 
 the variation in the cooking to be fol- „_ 
 lowed if it be desired to use cooked 
 
 meat. Rice should of course be served with this, 
 and the usual chutneys, &c. 
 
 157 
 
158 FIFTY LUNCHES. 
 
 3. Soak a pint measure of white haricots for twelve 
 hours, then drain, put them into a stewpan with a 
 yrr, f J thicli shcc of lean bacon, a four-ounce 
 cot beans d onion cut into quarters, half an ounce of 
 la Livour- celery, one of carrot sliced, and a muslin 
 
 bag containing a teaspoonful of dried 
 herbs, season with a quarter of an ounce of salt and 
 half that quantity of pepper. Cover with three pints 
 of lukewarm water, and bring once to the boil, then- 
 simmer gently until the beans are tender but not 
 broken. Now, turning the beans out on a sieve, 
 strain off the water into a bowl beneath it, pick out 
 the muslin bag and other vegetables, and let the 
 beans lie as they are till wanted. Next, having a 
 roux ready in a stewpan made with an ounce of butter 
 and an ounce of flour, stir in by degrees a pint of 
 the water in which the beans were boiled ; boil, skim, 
 and put into it two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan 
 and a gill of tomato conserve or puree. Pass all 
 through a hair sieve. Arrange the beans in a fire- 
 proof china dish, moisten them with the sauce, dust 
 over with grated Parmesan, dot a few pieces of 
 butter over the surface, and push the dish into the 
 oven, serving it as soon as it is thoroughly hot. 
 
 4. Eight apples the size of lawn-tennis balls will 
 be wanted for this. Pare, quarter, and core them, 
 
 then mince them up, put the mince into 
 ^/appilt^'^ a stewpan with the juice and zest of a 
 
 lemon, moisten it with just sufficient 
 syriip to cover nicely, and stew the fruit gently until 
 sufficiently soft to pass through the sieve. This 
 
MARMALADE OF APPLES. 159 
 
 having been done, stir into it two tablespoonfuls of 
 apricot jam and a liqueur-glass of kirsch, maras- 
 chino, or any nice liqueur ; set this in the stewpan 
 again, and reduce it over the fire, stirring continually 
 until it becomes a stiff puree or marmalade. When 
 this condition has been reached let it cool, and when 
 cold arrange the puree in a dish in a dome-shape, 
 using a palette-knife dipped in hot water to smooth 
 its surface ; powder over then with finely sifted 
 sugar, and garnish round with croutes of stale madeira 
 cake which have been lightly fried in butter, cooled, 
 and dusted with sugar. If liked, the surface of the 
 sugar coating the dome may be glazed with a sala- 
 mander or glazing-iron. 
 
MENU XLIX. 
 
 {For a summer luncheon party.) 
 
 Truite aaumon^e h. la r^moulade. 
 
 (Euf8 poch^s k la Crispi 
 ipaule d'agneau k la Frincesse. 
 
 Asperges froids k la cr&me. 
 
 Fouding de bananes aux fraises. 
 
 Canapes de caviar. 
 
 I. Turn to Menu xxii. and follow the recipe there 
 
 given, substituting this sauce : — Scald and mince as 
 
 finely as possible half an ounce of 
 
 Salmon trout parsley, the same of chervil, the green 
 
 a la remou- , , . ■, ■ l 
 
 lade. stem or one young onion, and six tarragon 
 
 leaves ; pound them in a mortar with 
 six fillets of anchovy freed from oil, a dessert- 
 spoonful of French mustard, and five hard-boiled 
 yolks of egg ; pass the puree through a hair sieve 
 into a bowl laid over ice, beat into it two raw 
 yolks, and drop by drop two gills of the best salad 
 oil as in the case of mayonnaise ; finish with a dessert- 
 spoonful of the best French vinegar and a table- 
 spoonful of finely minced pickled gherkins. Keep 
 the sauce as cold as possible. 
 
 jTat't/F' 2- This Will be found at page 70. 
 
 160 
 
BANANA PUDDING WITH STRAWBERRIES. i6i 
 
 3. And this at page ^K. For the sauce Shoulder of 
 a la Fnncesse see page 71. Princesse. 
 
 4. Wash, trim, and cook the asparagus as usual, 
 release the bundle and lay the vegetable in a 
 legumiere over ice with ice in a dish 
 
 over it. Before serving season it with ^°^^ aspara- 
 salt and pepper, and sprinkle it with cream. 
 tarragon vinegar. For the sauce put a 
 gill of cream over ice and beat it with a whisk till 
 stiff, serving it in a cold sauce-boat. 
 
 5. For this see No. 3, Menu xxiii. N.B. — A com- 
 pote of fresh strawberries, set in syrup Banana pud- 
 as described in page 75, might be served ding with 
 sepai-ately, the pudding being steamed in ^irawbtirttes. 
 a plain charlotte-mould, and glazed when cold with, 
 apricot glaze. 
 
 6. For these see page 78. 
 
MENU L. 
 
 {For a winter luncheon party.) 
 
 (Eufs duTS auz hultres i. la Mathurin. 
 
 Faupiettes de boeuf a rEspagnole. 
 
 Faisans au riz tomato. 
 
 Croustades de champignons. 
 
 Fain de marrons au kirsch. 
 
 Maxmelade de pommes. 
 
 Canapes k, la Nantaise. 
 
 1. See No. i, Menu xliv. 
 
 2. This will be found at page 130. 
 
 3. And this at page 17. 
 
 4. Prepare a dozen oval croustades (page 28). Make 
 half a pint of sauce (page 32). Cut the mushrooms 
 which yielded the trimmings into quarter-inch squares, 
 and simmer them gently, seasoning and stirring con- 
 tinually, till quite soft. Keep this hot. Heat the 
 cases, fill them the last thing with the ragout, dust 
 over with raspings, and serve. 
 
 5. See No. 3, page 41. 
 
 6. This was given for No. 4, Menu xlviii. 
 
 7. And this at page 125. 
 
 l6z 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 On Curry-lUakiug. 
 
 The proportions I am about to give will be found reliable 
 approximately for one pound of meat, or fish, a full-sized 
 chicken, or a pound of vegetables. The vessels I recom- 
 mend are French earthenware casseroles, which I consider 
 by far the best for curry-making. They are admirable for 
 slow cooking, and are very easily cleaned. Curries may be 
 left in them without any risk, and may be served in them 
 without dishing up if a napkin or frilled paper be pinned 
 neatly round them. As curries improve by a day's keeping 
 this is worth noting. 
 
 Prepare the meat as follows : — Uncooked veal, mutton, 
 lamb, pork, or beef, in three-quarter inch squares ; a chicken 
 as ior fricassee, but making three pieces of the breast (cross- 
 cut), two of each thigh, and two of each leg, for chickens 
 in India are used when much smaller than English birds. 
 Fish should be cut into squares like meat ; cucumbers, 
 vegetable marrows, potatoes, and Jerusalem artichokes in 
 neat pieces, cauliflower in sprigs, eggs (hard boiled) in 
 halves lengthwise, &c., &c. 
 
 Weigh four ounces of onion (Portugal preferred), and 
 chop it up quite small ; put two ounces of fresh butter 
 into the casserole, set it over a moderate fire, and when 
 the butter has melted put in the minced onion and cover 
 the pan, leaving the onion to fry gently, softening it 
 thoroughly, and gradually browning. There must be no 
 burning, but it must brown. 
 
 While this is going on, prepare the " curry stuff," or 
 mixtui'e, as follows : — Put into a soup plate a tablespoon- 
 ful and a half of curry powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry 
 paste, a saltspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of crime 
 de riz or rice-flour. Turn these to a paste by moistening 
 them slightly with stock or milk,'amalgamating the whole. 
 
 Next make the nutty infusion. In a small bowl put one 
 tablespoonful and a half of desiccated cocoanut and one of 
 ground sweet almonds, and pour over them a breakfast- 
 cupful of boiling water. Cover this up to infuse, and 
 leave it alone until the end of the whole process. 
 
 By this time the onions should have cooked sufficiently, 
 163 
 
164 APPENDIX. 
 
 so add to them the curry mixture, and carefully fry for ten 
 minutes at least, so as to work away the crudity of the curry 
 powder. This step is absolutely essential, and its omission 
 in English recipes and in ordinary practice is the cause of 
 the roughness in curries so much complained of by foreign 
 artists. 
 
 When well fried, moisten, as in sauce-making, by degrees, 
 with the best broth or stock at hand — fish broth for fish, 
 milk or vegetable broth for vegetables, giblet broth for 
 chicken, and so on. A pint will be found enough for 
 the quantity of meat under treatment. 
 
 When all has been stirred in accelerate the heat some- 
 what, and then prepare the flavouring of green ginger (very 
 necessary) and subacid. The former is contributed in a 
 rasped or pounded state to the extent of a generously 
 filled teaspoonful ; the latter by a teaspoonful of red- 
 currant jelly with the juice of half a lemon. If available, 
 a dessert-spoonful of good chutney may also go in. 
 
 Now let the contents of the pan boil, skim, and add, 
 after browning it in a sfl«/«-pan in an ounce of butter, the 
 uncooked meat, reducing the heat at once to simmering. 
 The process now cannot be too gently conducted — an 
 hour and a half is not too much to allow. Taste the 
 sauce to see whether the subacid is sufficiently noticeable, 
 also whether any more salt is needed. Corrections having 
 been made accordingly, the nutty infusion should be poured 
 into the curry through a strainer, the sediment being well 
 pressed to expel all the milk. The curry can now be served, 
 rice, dished separately, accompanying. 
 
 Kindly observe a few salient points in this system of curry- 
 making. Why do I use crhne de riz 1 I do so because I 
 want to absorb the butter as by liaison. Few Indian cooks 
 take this trouble unless instructed to do so. The conse- 
 quence is that there is generally a most undesirable exudation 
 of the fatty element in their curries, which, the moment 
 extreme heat passes off, becomes greasy. A halo of this 
 surrounding a curry is not an attraction to be encouraged. 
 Next it may be asked. Why employ both powder and paste ? 
 This, I think, is quite necessary to produce a Madras curry 
 at its best, because there are ingredients in the paste which 
 cannot enter into a powder — tamarind, green ginger, a very 
 little garlic, almonds, mustard oil, &c. 
 
APPENDIX. I6S 
 
 The green ginger and the nutty infusion are important 
 features rarely attended to in England, and yet they are 
 easily got. You can use an infusion of the desiccated 
 cocoanut and ground sweet almonds sold for pudding- 
 making. The " milk " thus produced makes a very good 
 substitute for the fresh extract of cocoanut used in India. 
 Green ginger can be got at all the Stores or the herbalists 
 in Covent Garden. Next as regards the subacid. Apple 
 is, I know, recommended by many. I see no harm in 
 it, but it is not nearly as good as tamarind, the ingredient 
 used in India. I am personally quite contented with red- 
 currant jelly blended with lemon-juice. This dissolves 
 easily, can be added as desired, and provides all that is 
 wanted. There is another thing. In some recipes you 
 find that you are advised to rub the pieces of chicken 
 or meat with curry powder, and fry them with onions. 
 This is quite superfluous in my system. All that is 
 necessary is to toss the meat in butter in a sauU-^zn 
 sufficiently to "seize it," and then to pass it into the 
 curry sauce. We have enough onions and " curry stuff " 
 already in the composition. 
 
 Touching curries made of cooked meats. It is a mistake 
 to say that these are not worth eating. They can be turned 
 out very well indeed by my method, provided you take care 
 to have a really good moistening broth, assisted, say, with 
 an ounce of meat glaze, and if you will remember these 
 points : — Cooked meat does not need re-cooking, therefore, 
 when you have got your well-flavoured sauce ready, slip in 
 the meat, and let it marinade as long as you can therein 
 without any cooking whatever. Then, when you want to 
 serve, bring the contents of your casserole very gently to 
 steaming-point, and send it up without delay. 
 
 Diy Curry. 
 
 To prepare a Dry Curry proceed to commence with 
 exactly as in the previous case, but omit the creme de riz. 
 When the onion has browned nicely, stir in the " curry stuff," 
 which should be worked to a paste with good broth or 
 gravy. Fry this in the same manner for ten minutes, then 
 put in the squares of meat, the green ginger well pounded, 
 and a coffee-cupful of strong nutty infusion — no other 
 moistening. Keep the fire low throughout the process. 
 
i66 APPENDIX. 
 
 turning the meat about with a wooden spoon until the 
 moisture is gradually absorbed, the pieces of meat separate 
 from each other, and surrounded with a powder formed by 
 the ingredients which have been slowly dried during the 
 process. This only requires patience. A quick fire will 
 burn the curry, and make the meat tough. 
 
 The Savoury Omelette. 
 
 The recipe for this omelette differs somewhat from those 
 usually propounded, being that of the cuisiniere bourgeoise 
 rather than that of the Chef. The latter looks very nice, 
 and is often finished tastefully with a pattern skilfully 
 wrought with glaze, cordons of purees, and other decoration. 
 To my mind the omelette suffers in being made so pretty, 
 and is not as good a thing to eat as that of roadside inn or 
 cabaret. 
 
 An omelette ought never to be stiff enough to retain a 
 very neatly rdlled-up appearance. If cooked with proper 
 rapidity it should be too light to present a fixed form, and 
 on reaching the hot dish should spread itself rather, on 
 account of the delicacy of its substance. Books that 
 counsel you to turn an omelette, to fold it, to let it brown 
 on one side, to let it fry for about five minutes, &c., are not 
 to be trusted. If you follow such advice you will only 
 produce, at best, a neat-looking egg pudding. 
 
 Timed by the seconds hand of a watch an omelette of six 
 eggs, cooked according to my method " by the first inten- 
 tion," takes forty-five seconds fi-om the moment of being 
 poured into the pan to that of being turned into the dish. 
 
 Though cream is considere.d by some to be an improvement, 
 I do not recommend it. Milk is certainly a mistake, for it 
 makes the omelette leathery. I confess that I like a very 
 little minced chives in all savoury omelettes ; but this is a 
 matter of taste. Finely chopped parsley should be added 
 with a seasoning of salt and pepper. The general rules to be 
 observed in omelette-mzking, according to my process, 
 then, may be thus summed up : — 
 
 1. Mix thoroughly, but do not beat the eggs, and never use 
 more than six for one omelette, omitting two of the whites. 
 
 2. It is better to make two of six than one of twelve eggs. 
 Success is impossible if the vessel be too full. If using four 
 eggs, omit one white. 
 
APPENDIX. 167 
 
 3. Three eggs, mixed whole, make a nice-sized omelette, 
 quite the best for the beginner to commence with. 
 
 4. Use a proper utensil, rather shallow, with narrow, well- 
 sloping sides; a twelve-inch fireproof china pan will be 
 found excellent ; see that it is clean, and quite dry. 
 
 5. Do not overdo the amount of butter that you use for 
 the frying — enough to lubricate the pan evenly to the extent 
 of a quarter of an inch is sufficient. 
 
 6. Be sure that your pan is ready to receive your mixture. 
 If not hot enough the omelette will be leathery, or you will 
 have to mix it in the pan like scrambled eggs Ueufs brouilles). 
 
 7. The moment the butter ceases to fizz and turns 
 brownish, the moisture having been expelled, the pan is 
 ready. 
 
 8. Pour the mixture into the pan so that it may spi^ead 
 well over the lubricated surface, then instantly lift up the 
 part of the omelette that sets at the moment of contact, and 
 let the unformed portion run under it ; repeat this two or 
 three times if the pan be at all full, keep the left hand at 
 work with a gentle see-saw motion to encourage rapidity in 
 setting, give a finishing shake, and turn the omelette into 
 the hot dish before the whole of the mixture on the surface 
 has quite set. 
 
 9. The omelette, slightly assisted by the spoon, will roll 
 over almost of its own accord if the sides of the pan be 
 sloped as I have described, burying within it the slightly 
 unformed, juicy part of the mixture which remained on tlie 
 surface ; it will not require folding. 
 
 10. Three-quarters of a minute is ample time for the 
 whole operation', if the pan be properly hot when the 
 mixture is poured into it, and the heat evenly maintained. 
 
 11. Have the hot dish close by the fire, so that you can 
 turn the omelette into it instantcr. A little melted butter, 
 vyith some chopped parsley and chives, may, with advan- 
 tage, be put into the dish. 
 
 12. It is above all things necessary to have a brisk fire 
 under the pan while the omelette is being cooked. A fairly 
 sized gas boiler serves the purpose. The small three-egg 
 omelette can be made successfully over a powerful methy- 
 lated spirit lamp. The ordinary kitchen fire is unsuited for 
 this work unless it can be brought up level with the hot 
 plate, with a clear live coal surface. 
 
i68 APPENDIX. 
 
 As it lies in the dish this omelette will not look like a 
 bolster — it will take a natural, rather flat, irregular oval 
 shape, golden yellow in colour, and flecked with green, 
 with the juicy part escaping from beneath its folds. 
 
 Tbe Sweet Omelette. 
 
 Break three eggs, carefully separating the yolks from the 
 whites, whisk the latter to a stiff froth, and mix the former 
 in a basin with an ounce of sugar and- a few drops of lemon- 
 juice. Set a twelve-ineh omdette^^axi on the fire with an 
 ounce of butter, melt this and see that it covers the pan 
 well without leaving any dry spaces ; when the butter is 
 hot without, browning, quickly blend the yolks with the 
 stiff whites and pour the njixture into the pan, smoothing 
 it over with the palette-knife; Keep the heat below the 
 vessel rather low, and -leave the omelette alone for two 
 minutes, after that detach the edges with the palette-knife, 
 and note if the under parf is setting nicely ; as soon as this 
 is observable pass the palette-knife under the whole omelette, 
 double it over, and turn it into a hot silver dish, which should 
 be ready close at hand, dusted well with sugar. Dredge 
 sugar over the omelette liberally, and serve!. 
 
 Any flavour can be communicated with the sugar when 
 mixing the yolks — orange, lemon, ratafia, vanilla, &c., &c. 
 
 For omelette au rhum put a dessert-spoonful of this spirit 
 into the bowl with the sugar and yolks, and when the 
 omelette is dished pour a sherry-glassful of rum round it, and 
 ignite it as you do brandy for a Christmas plum-pudding. 
 
 If preserve of any kind is to be added, melt four table- 
 spoonfuls of it separately in a small stewpan, adding a table- 
 spoonful of liqueur, and just before doubling the omelette 
 over spread the preserve rapidly over its surface. 
 
 If provided with a glazing-iron the sugar spread over the 
 surface of the omelette may be turned to caramel by an 
 application of the heated iron. 
 
 It will be found that the mixture I have described is as 
 much as a twelve-inch pan can hold. Accordingly, if several 
 guests have to be served, have two omelettes made and sent 
 in rapidly in succession, the mixture being got ready before- 
 hand. 
 
INDEX 
 
 DISHES OF EGGS. 
 
 Buttered eggs with asparagus ,5^'. 
 „ „ with game . 103 ; 
 
 „ „ with shrimps . 12 
 
 „ „ with vegetables 76 ;, 
 
 Eggs a la Livournaise . .31 
 „ „ Russe . . .23 
 „ barrels of, with pheasant 
 
 puree .... 151 
 „ in the dish with 
 tomatoes . . . .43 
 Hard-boiled eggs a la Bre- 
 
 tonne 129 
 
 Hard-boiled eggs a la mode ■ 
 
 de Caen .... 157 
 Hard-boiled eggs a la Mosco- 
 
 vite 119 
 
 Hard-boiled eggs a la poisson- 
 
 niere 35 
 
 Hard-boiled eggs with oysters 145 
 
 Omelette with lobster . . 97 
 
 Poached eggs a la Celestine . 49 
 
 „ „ „ Cingalese . 100 
 
 „ „ „ Crispi . 70 
 
 „ „ „ fermiere . 32 
 
 „ „ Lyonnaise 93 
 
 „ „ with tongue . 136 
 
 DISHES OF FISH. 
 Brill fillets a la Bonnefoy 
 
 169 
 
 PAGE 
 
 £od (salt) a la bonne f emme . 25 
 
 « „ „ with tomato- 
 •/ '• ' tinted rice . . .46 
 , „ ♦imtiale of . . . 142 
 ^ab, au gratin . . .64 
 " ,,.. ■ salad .... 106 
 JSelS in jelly a la Tartare . 109 
 Fish, cold, in shells .. ' . . 67 
 „ creams of, with flJirimp 
 
 sauce . • '* i. 7 
 
 „ croustades ■\'^.'^ ■ 113 
 
 „ in shells a la Carmelite . 52 
 
 „ with eggs ... 35 
 
 Gurnard a la Romaine . . 126 
 
 Haddock, orlys of . . .16 
 
 Ijake with horseradish sauce 133 
 
 John Dory a la Rouennaise . 148 
 
 Lobster omelette . . .97 
 
 Mackerel fillets with olives . 116 
 
 Oysters scalloped a la Mornay 139 
 
 Salmon, border of, a la Par- 
 
 mentier . 37 
 
 „ cutlets a la pecheur . 79 
 
 „ poached. . 55 
 
 „ pie . . . . 87 
 
 „ salad with potatoes . 61 
 
 „ slice of poached . 29 
 
 Salmon-trout in jelly . . 73 
 
 Scallops, Ceylon curry of . 2 
 
 Sea-bream a la Maltaise . . 123 
 
 „ „ Montreuil . 154 
 
170 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sole fillets a la Bercy . 
 
 84 
 
 )f 
 
 with green butter . , 
 ings a la maitfe d'hpfel 
 
 90 
 
 Whit 
 
 40 
 
 
 SAUCES, 
 
 
 Sauce, apricot sweet 
 
 ID 
 
 )) 
 
 a la tiogue . 
 
 2 
 
 ?» 
 
 „ Soyer . 
 
 38 
 
 )i 
 
 Bonnefoy 
 
 21 
 
 f, 
 
 Bordelaise . 
 
 9 
 
 >j 
 
 Ceylon (curry) . 
 
 3 
 
 
 chaud-froid, brown 
 
 69 
 
 II 
 
 „ white 
 
 89 
 
 )) 
 
 Contadina . 
 
 97 
 
 J) 
 
 for beef gratine . 
 
 49 
 
 )» 
 
 for blanquette or fri- 
 
 
 
 cassee 
 
 59 
 
 n 
 
 for boiled pheasant 
 
 18 
 
 )t 
 
 for chicken a la Toscam 
 
 ; 22 
 
 » 
 
 for orlys of fish . 
 
 17 
 
 jj 
 
 for p.pached salmon 
 
 29 
 
 ,) 
 
 horseradish, for fish 
 
 133 
 
 )j 
 
 matelote, for pigeons 
 
 S3 
 
 
 maitre d'hotel 
 
 40 
 
 ji 
 
 mayonnaise coUee 
 
 128 
 
 ,, 
 
 Milanaise 
 
 89 
 
 n 
 
 plum-pudding 
 
 153 
 
 II 
 
 poulette 
 
 98 
 
 11 
 
 princess (cucumber) 
 
 71 
 
 II 
 
 remoulade . 
 
 160 
 
 II 
 
 Robert . 
 
 137 
 
 II 
 
 roebuck 
 
 14 
 
 II 
 
 shrimp . 
 
 8 
 
 It 
 
 Soubise 
 
 91 
 
 II 
 
 Tartare 
 
 110 
 
 
 venison 
 
 120 
 
 II 
 
 Venitienne . 
 
 140 
 
 II 
 
 verte for salmon . 
 
 55 
 
 DISHES OF MEAT. 
 
 Beef croquettes a la Viennoise 68 
 
 „ minced au gratin . . 117 
 „ paupiettes of, a I'Es- 
 
 pagnole . . . 130 
 
 PAGE 
 
 49 
 140 
 107 
 
 21 
 
 91 
 64 
 
 Beef, slices of, gratines . 
 Calf's tongue a la Venitienne 
 Chicken a la Parmentier 
 „ „ Toscane 
 „ cutlets a la Villeroy . 
 „ mazagran of 
 Chickens, little, with new 
 
 vegetables . . . .61 
 Curry, Ceylon. ... 2 
 „ dry . . . . 16s 
 „ Madras . . . 163 
 Fowl, pilao of ... 41 
 Game, quenelles of, fried . 124 
 Grouse, salmis of . . . 100 
 Hare cutlets a la Gogue . . i 
 „ fillets a la Czarina . 155 
 Lamb cutlets a la Murillo . 85 
 „ „ „ Princesse . 71 
 „ neck of, with spinach . 56 
 „ ragout of, with rice . 80 
 „ shoulder of, with cu- 
 cumber . . .35 
 Mutton cutlets a la Louise . 26 
 II .1 ,1 Verdi .. 104 
 „ „ roebuck fashion 13 
 „ neck of, a la Turque . 30 
 „ noisettes of, a la Soyer 37 
 Partridges a la Suisse . . 113 
 Pigeons stewed with mush- 
 rooms 53 
 
 Pigeons stewed with peas . 74 
 Pheasant with rice . . .17 
 Pig's head with Brussels 
 
 sprouts 148 
 
 Pork cutlets, sauce Robert . 136 
 
 „ salt, a la Wyvern . . 142 
 
 Quails a la financiere . . 88 
 
 Rabbit braised a la Borghese no 
 
 „ . Irish stew of . .43 
 
 „ noisettes of, with celery 134 
 
 Turkey a la Chevaliere . . 151 
 
 Veal and ham pie . . .46 
 
 „ blanquette of, a la Citoy- 
 
 enne . . . .59 
 
 „ cutlets a la Bordelaise . 8 
 
 Veal, breast of, with tomatoes 33 
 
INDEX. 
 
 171 
 
 Veal, chump of braised with 
 
 mushrooms 
 
 „ escalopes a la Contadina 
 
 „ kidney with white wine 
 
 „ stewed a la Marengo . 
 
 Venison, hashed 
 
 PAGE 
 
 97 
 
 93 
 
 127 
 
 120 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Artichoke bottoms a la Mila- 
 
 naise . 89 
 „ „ a la Russe 105 
 
 „ creams, with an- 
 chovy . . -75 
 Asparagus, cold, with whipped 
 
 cream . . i6i 
 „ creams . . .65 
 Broad beans a la poulette . 98 
 Brussels sprouts a la Wyvem 152 
 Cabbage with rice . . . 137 
 Chestnuts, stewed . . 47 
 
 Cucumber salads a la Deau- 
 
 ville 128 
 
 Endive puree .... 9 
 Flageolets a la Romaine . 50 
 French beans with soubise . 91 
 Haricots (dried) a la Livour- 
 
 naise 158 
 
 Jerusalem artichoke cream . 140 
 Mushroom creams . . .115 
 Onion and celery puree a la 
 
 Suisse 114 
 
 Peas a la Cecile . . .85 
 
 Salsifis au gratin . . . 131 
 
 Spinach puree . . .56 
 
 „ „ a la Louise . 21 
 
 „ „ with cream and 
 
 soubise '- . 107 
 Tomato puree, consolidated 
 
 for savouries . . -71 
 Tomatoes stuffed a la Trou- 
 
 ville 95 
 
 Truffles in croustades . . 156 
 Turnips a la marechale . . 143 
 
 SAVOURY ENTREMETS. 
 
 Macaroni fourre 
 Rice with tomato . 
 Salad a la belle alliance . 
 
 „ sportsmto's . 
 Spaghetti with mushrooms 
 
 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 lOI 
 
 18 
 
 39 
 
 121 
 
 81 
 
 Almohd tartlets . . .51 
 Ambassadress' pudding . . 82 
 Antoinette cream . . .112 
 Apple puree moulded . .127 
 Apples in pastry cases . . 134 
 „ marmalade. . . 158 
 „ with fruit a la Paris- 
 
 "ienne . . . 155 
 „ vrith kirsch . . 34 
 Banana pudding with straw- 
 berries . . .77 
 „ puree .... 114 
 Cake crusts a la Normande . 38 
 „ with chocolate . 71 
 
 „ with peaches . 124 
 
 Cake in half mourning . . 53 
 Cake with cream . . . 104 
 Charlotte with burnt almonds 27 
 Chartreuse of peaches . . 146 
 Chocolate sauce . . ■ . 22 
 Coffee custard pudding a la 
 
 Turque . . .10 
 „ glaze .... 19 
 Compote of apricots with rice 149 
 „ „ bananas with zest 
 
 of oranges . 132 
 
 „ „ green apricots . 89 
 
 „ „ chestnuts . . 14 
 
 Cream of macaroons ■. . 30 
 
 Dates in custard with maca- 
 
 , roons 138 
 
 Eclairs with coffee . . 19 
 Fancy fritters . . .44 
 
 Ginger pudding . . .99 
 Glace royale . . . .27 
 Green figs glazed with kirsch 107 
 
172 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Greengages in raspberry syrto' 117 
 Green gooseberry ,puree with' 
 
 cream . . '. . > . 65 
 Little moulds of coffee jSjeam 68 
 Macaronade a la Dubojfe .36 
 Mould of chestnuts^ J*. , 41 
 Peaches with macaroon?. . 92 
 Pineapple open tgrt ' . . 121 
 „ pudding. .• .94 
 Plum-pudding fritters . . 153 
 Praline custard pudding . 57 
 „ to make . . .27 
 ProfiteroUes with chocolate' . 22 
 Rice croquettes . . . 143 
 „ fritters . '*•'■ .-^ . . 59 
 Rhubarb creams . . .48 
 Roman fritters with maca- 
 roons 62 
 
 Sweet omelette with pistachio 
 
 nuts . . 141 
 „ „ with straw- 
 
 berries . 74 
 Tapicoa with whipped cream 5 
 
 SAVOURIES. 
 
 Artichoke bottoms a la Russe 105 
 „ creams with an- 
 
 chovies . . 75 
 Bouchees a la Dauphine . 10 
 Canapes of ham . . .42 
 
 Canapes of sardines . . 125 
 -„ „ caviare . . 78 
 
 Colombines of ham . . 5 
 Cream of smoked haddock . 146 
 Croiltes with herring roes . 36 
 Croustades a la Bohemienne . 28 
 . . „ „ Sybille . . 86 
 
 Cucumber cases with shrimp 
 
 puree 63 
 
 Darioles of shrimp . . . 135 
 Eggs a la Livournaise . .31 
 „ „ Russe . . .23 
 Foie gras escalopes with 
 
 madeira .... 69 
 Housewife's toasts . . .45 
 Little cheese creams . . 20 
 „ „ „ with an- 
 
 chovies 117 
 „ creams of asparagus . 65 
 „ salads a la Deauville . 128 
 „ moulds of macaroni . 54 
 Mushroom creams . . .US 
 Neapolitan puddings . . 60 
 Norwegian bouchees . . 149 
 Plovers' eggs in cases . . 57 
 Salad a la belle alliance . . 39 
 Shrimp creams a la Mornay . 34 
 Stuffed olives a la Royale . 15 
 Tomato savoury . . .71 
 Tomato stuffed a la Trouville 95 
 Truffles in cases . . .156 
 
COLONEL KENNEY HERBERTS POPULAR WORKS 
 ON COOKERY/ 
 
 -SENSE COOKERY 
 
 FOR ENGLISH HOUSEHOLDS. 
 
 Based upon MMern Wtt^ish/ and. Continental Principles, and 
 Tw'hitv Menus- worked out in detail. 
 
 A. KENNEY^^HE^BERT (Wyvern "), 
 
 Don of the Order of the Cordon-Rouge, Author of " Cidinary jottings," &c. 
 Large Crownl 8vo. Cloth, price 7s. 6d. 
 
 "A book which is sure to ^ve a large circulatiori, since the- author, the well- 
 known ' Wyvern,' has been fqrac^e time generally accepted as perhaps the chief 
 English authority on the art oi^cogkery." — The Times. 
 
 "An elaborate treatiseori the (Julinary art. The rule.s are laid 4own simply and 
 clearly, and the recipes are givWi with such precision as to quantities that mistakes 
 can scarcely occur if proper atnbition is paid to the instructions." — Morning Post. 
 
 " Alike to learnefa %nd adedls the bOok will be found useful and suggestive." — 
 Manchester Courier. 
 
 A. KENNEY HEF^BERT (-'Wyvern"), 
 
 Cordon-Rouge, Author af "Culinary jottings," &c. 
 Crown 8v^-'^Gloth^jprice 2S. 6d. 
 
 " All who know the culinary w^^^K*' Wyvern ' are aware that they combine 
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 this reputation." — Saturday Review. ^^' 
 
 " An admirable collection of memis fQCfce opening meal of the day." — Speaker. 
 
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 read and studied." — Pall Mall Ga. 
 
 London: EDWi!i?D ARNOLD, 37, Bedford Street, Strand, W.C. 
 
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