li**<2J^^-.' •■ >v >, (larnell Hnioctatti) ffiibrarg CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 187& 1918 Cornell University Library F 851.T35 Beyond the Sierras, or. Observations on 3 1924 023 250 701 Cornell University Library The original of tinis book is in tfie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023250701 ^nn^v^lfcr J\ UrLu Beyond THE Sierras; OBSERVATIONS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. BY REV. A. H. TEVIS, A.M., %,% AITTHOR OF ** JESUITISM, THE BIBLE, AND THE SCHOOLS." ' A wide domain of mysteries And signs that men misunderstand I A land of space and dreams ; a land Of sea-salt lakes and dried-up seas ! A land of caves and caravans, And lonely wells and pools." — Joaquin Miller. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., 1877- Copyright, 1877, by J. B. Lippincott & Co. TO THE MEMORY OF HON. WIRT HOPKINS, LATE ASSAYER Ui S. MINT, CARSON CITY, NEVADA, ONE OF THE BEST FRIENDS EARTH EVER GAVE ME, WHOSE HAND PENNED SOME OF THESE PAGES, AND WHOSE MANLY HEART, COMMON SENSE, AND PERSONAL FAVORS SHOWN ME AND MINE, WILL NEVER BE FORGOTTEN WHILE LIFE LASTS, THIS VOLUME IS FAITHFULLY DEDICATED. PREFATORY. This volume is presented to the reader, not claiming any profundity or very rare features, but as an answer, somewhat, to the numerous inquiries that have been made of me regarding the Pacific Coast. The climate, the hard times, and the overcrowded population of the Eastern States have turned the thoughts of thousands toward this part of the United States. Here the climate is near perfection, times are easier than in the East, and the popula- tion is not crowded, hence this country may well claim the attention of the people. But California is not Paradise ; it has its delights, it is true, but it certamly has its objections, — some of which have been alluded to in the following pages. It has been my design to give such information as I have found by experience that a person wants when he arrives on these shores. Of course, this S 6 PREFATORY. book does not " contain it all," but it does contain such as I could get in the time allotted. I do not beg mercy for this volume, — " what is writ is writ.'' Silly critics need not be feared, and sensible ones are always charitable. I am under obligations to the late Hon. Wirt Hopkins, A.M., for many suggestions, as well as for some of the pages contained in this book. Had not death taken him away, this volume would have possessed additional interest, for he would have contributed very largely to its pages. A resi- dence of a quarter of a century on this coast and his literary ability well fitted him for the work. Some of the accounts given of vegetable produc- tions, etc., will seem like unfounded exaggerations. Many of them are exceptions, but they are given to show what can be done by one of the greatest countries the sun ever shone upon. There is no doubt of the wonderful features of the Pacific Coast, but whether the reader will ever see or enjoy them must depend entirely upon him- self I would not utter a word to induce him to come ; it is a question he must settle for himself. A. H. T. San Francisco, California, March 28, 1877. CONTENTS. CBAPTEK PAGB I. A REMOTE STATE 9 II. " SHALL I GO TO THE PACIFIC COAST?" . . . l6 HI. LOSS OR fiAlN, WHY? 23 IV. NATURE'S RETURNS TO THE HUSBANDMAN . . 34 V. MINES AND MINING 42 VI. A GARDEN IN A GARDEN 52 VII. NORTH OF THE BAY 59 VIII. A LAND OF MILK AND HONEY 70 IX. A LAND OF MILK AND HONEY — CONTINUED . . 82 X. SOCIAL LIFE n8 XI. THE PEARL OF THE SIERRAS 13! XII. SUMMERING AT LAKE TAHOE I38 XIII. TOWARDS YOSEMITE I45 XIV. YOSEMITE l6S XV. INTERESTING PLACES AND THINGS .... 177 XVI. A GLIMPSE AT THE " HEATHEN CHINEE" . . . 184 XVII. " HARD LINES" IN TRAVEL I94 XVIII. INCIDENTS AND OBSERVATIONS IN ARIZONA . . 207 XIX. MORAL AND INTELLECTUAL OUTLOOK . . . 22$ XX. LOCALITIES AND BUSINESS 23S XXI. SOME OBJECTIONS 244 XXII. MY ASSOCIATE 253 BEYOND THE SIERRAS; OR, OBSERVATIONS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. CHAPTER I. A REMOTE STATE. " You are not for obscurity designed." — Dryden. It is a common saying that this is an age of such intellectual advancement that a cosmopolitan world is made a neighborly community. That really does very well for a sentence to weave into a florid Fourth-of-July speech, but does not contain facts, nor reliable information to a reasonable de- gree. Science has made such advancement that, politi- cally and commercially, nations are near each other. But lightning express trains, and rapid ocean travel and even telegraphy, and daily jour- nals, rich with news, greeting us at early break- fast, do not always bring adjoining counties into very close acquaintanceship, much less remote A* 9 lO BEYOND THE SIERRAS. States and countries. We are blessed with much information that is quite reliable of all discovered parts of the world, while of the minutiae of topog- raphy, geography, the social and intellectual character of the people, and a thousand and one other things of a given section, we may know but little. We study self-interest much more than history or science, hence we are much better informed in matters that pertain to our individual benefit than the general condition of the world. It is said Americans live close together in feel- ings and interests. This must be taken with a grain of allowance, for thousands care little or nothing and know nothing of men and things be- yond their own door-yard. The maps lay down a section of country of 200,cxx) square miles between the 3 2d and 42d parallels of latitude, and 114th and 124th degrees of longitude, and label it California. The pupil at school is taught that it was and is yet, to a limited extent, " the land of gold," and that it is bounded on the west by the Pacific Ocean, and on other sides by certain States and a territory. But of the State, and the whole Pacific slope — of the topography, climatic character, mineral wealth, agricultural features and advantages, isothermal influences, etc., comparatively little is known. Invalids come to enjoy the climate, having heard A REMOTE STATE. n of it as a near relation to the early character of the Garden of Eden. Tourists, many of whom come as the result of a long desire to " take a trip," irre- spective of information, rush hither and thither, " doing up'' the entire coast in a few brief weeks, and, having an imperfect knowledge of everything, go home with overdrawn ideas, or else have in- formation short of the facts. A gentleman of New York — a lawyer of some prominence — once writing to me for information, said, " We know no more in detail of the Pacific coast than we do of some parts of Asia." It seemed hyperbolical, yet no doubt was true. A professor in one of the leading universities of the West addressed the writer a letter in which he spoke of " Nevada territory" when the State had been organized at least thirteen years. We do not say that persons are to be severely censured for the want of this knowledge, because it is impossible for any but an idiot to know every- thing, but it plainly indicates the lack of informa- tion concerning the Pacific coast. Though it be professors and professional men that so greatly err, we must not so much blame as assist, considering the subject. The history of the entire extent of country west of the Rocky Mountains is a very interesting one. The Great Salt Lake is to-day no doubt the remnant of one vast inland sea that originally 12 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. covered thousands upon thousands of square miles. The geological evidences in the ranges of moun- tains are of the most indubitable character, sub- stantiating the theory of a sea once covering the waste lowlands of Utah and Eastern Nevada. In the highlands of the latter State there are evidences almost everywhere of volcanic action, which was no doiibt the prime agent in shaping its present physical aspect. Of California even stranger theories have been held. How curious that this State, with its moun- tains and fertile valleys, should ever have been called an island, whereas to-day there is but a poor evidence of it ever having been even a first-class peninsula! There are evidences that the ocean once covered many places that are inland to-day, yet to our thinking there are poor indications that the State was entirely isolated by the waters of the sea. But such was the fact two hundred years ago, or at any rate such was the idea hejd at that not very remote period. About two centuries ago, a history of America was written by one John Ogilby, in which he says, " We shall close up our discourse of these islands that lie north of the Equinoctial Line, with a dis- course of California, especially so-called, which was by many thought and described to be a peninsula, A. REMOTE STATE. 13 or half island, by reason of the bay which divides it from Quivivian and New Gallacia towards the north, runneth much narrower than it doth south- erly, which made them think that somewhere or other at the north it was joined to the main land of America. But later discoveries have found it to be a perfect island, and altogether separate from the continent. . . ." This is a fact in connection with the history of California, if fact it is, that sounds strangely to many students of the geography of this coast. California was of no special interest to the United States till after the close of the Mexican War, when it was ceded to our government by the terms of the treaty of peace. Even then by many states- men it was thought to be of little value, save as a coast defence. Gold had not been discovered, the vast and incomparable resources of these rich plains had not been developed, and the beneficial effects of the climate had not been thought of. But succeeding events, with which the reader is familiar, brought the coast prominently before the eye of the world, and in comparatively close rela- tionship with the other territories and States. But the attention given has been mainly towards the leading features of the coast, rather than the mi- nutiae of the State. It is but little known that in almost every sense there is an essential difference between this and the other States of the Union, — 14 ^ BEYOND THE SIERRAS. that in many of the habits and customs the people are unlike, while in the natural characteristics there is as great or greater dissimilarity. How i&^, aside from those that have lived or visited here, have a proper idea of the natural advantages, climate, soil, and the artificial develop- ments that are enjoyed in this land of bright sun- shine and gold. It is not known by the masses that here can be found all the climates of the known world, while almost everything the world produces can be found within the limits of the State. California is " part and parcel" of the great sisterhood of States ; but it is not felt and realized like in the States of the East, unless it be by the politicians of the coast, whose philanthropy makes them desire to " serve" the country for their country's good. And we doubt if they feel any very great amount of patriotism prompting them at times. It is so far away from the seat of gov- ernment in the East, and from the various matters that stir and interest the people of other States, that the feelings of relationship and sympathy are comparatively weakened. As much of the spirit of loyalty, perhaps, prevails here as in the average State if it were aroused. But distance and relative isolation have dulled the keen interest that is felt in the various localities of the East. Business aims, ambition, feelings, sympathies, thoughts are A REMOTE STATE. 15 greatly localized in this country, and are directed to developments that pertain alone to this coast. Hundreds of miles intervene between the great family of the body politic in the Atlantic States and the relatively small branch on the Pacific ; and the pulsations, of sympathetic life are kept in motion by a few telegraph wires and a single rail- road, which public highway has no more feelings in common with the interests of the East or West, aside from the aggrandizement of their own " ring," than they have with the development of the sugar plantations of Louisiana. And then, geographical lines and topographical features add to the felt idea, so to speak, of the remoteness. Does not this State lie on a far-off and relatively unknown coast? And does it not retain yet in the hearts of its native population a feeling of at least interest in the land where it used to belong — Mexico ? And are there not great mountain chains, whose summits reach into the everlasting snows, that lie between this State and the interests and associ- ations of the East ? And do not these add to the idea of remoteness that is felt by all ? These are the very barriers that prevent many from moving to this coast, whose greatest desire is to find a land of such delightful climate and incomparable resources as California. 1 6 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. CHAPTER II. "shall 1 GO TO THE PACIFIC COAST?" " Let the end try the man." — Shakspeare. In answering this oft-repeated question, I shall endeavor to be concise, and at the same time definite. First, if a poor man, and you can make a living at home, stay there. The reasons for this are many, all of which need not be mentioned to reveal the philosophy of the advice given. The immense mineral resources of the coast are mostly in the hands of the moneyed few, and nearly nothing is left for individual exertion, as in the palmy days of the " gold excitement." ' It is somewhat so with agriculture. Although there are immense tracts of government land un- occupied, the scarcity of water, difficulty of access, and other causes, render not a small amount of capital absolutely necessary to enable a man to bring such land under cultivation. The same is true in very many branches of business to a degree. The expenses of living in certain remote sections are much greater than in SHALL I GO TG THE PACIFIC COAST? 17 the East; and, by the way, in some places not very remote, too. And although the major part of our population to-day earn their living by their daily toil, it is very frequently next to impossible for a stranger from east of the Rocky Mountains, unless he have friend* to help him, to obtain employment of any kind immediately. The reason for this is plain. The methods of doing business are so entirely different, and the kinds of work so new, that a new-comer can hardly earn his board for his employer. Consequently, it is best not 'to hastily, nor unthoughtedly, follow the advice of the late Horace Greeley, and " go west." It is a long ways from the East to Cali- fornia, and many things are met that are not pleas- ant or lucrative. If you are determined, and have will sufficient to stem the tide of the various op- posing elements that will meet you, you will be safe in coming to the Pacific. There is no doubt that if, with these qualities, a man have a small amount of ready money, and goes into any branch of business with which he is acquainted and to which he is adapted, and will keep a modicum of the frugality and economy supposed to have been taught him in his youth, a reasonable success is about as certain as taxation. , In all lines of trade on this coast the old prov- erb, " He who by the plough would thrive," etc., holds true in every instance. A man must work, 2* 1 8 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. either with hands or brain, and if with both, so much the better. Drones never thrive in the West. Instances by the thousand could be given to the point where men, with very little money, have in a few years accumulated a competency, if not wealth, and I cannot recall a single instance of a failure unless there were good causes, such as drunkenness, laziness, or a propensity for some species of gambling. This does not apply to any one branch of busi- ness alone, but to all alike; pre-supposing, of course, that a man will not undertake or engage in anything of which he has not at least a little knowledge, if not experience. And here it is well to state that a cause of seri- ous trouble to many has been a desire to engage in some line of business of which they knew nothing whatever. A personal friend of the writer, who was a fine mechanic, and who had capital enough to have given him a good start in his legitimatebusiness, after arriving, said he " did not come to California to work at the bench or retail his merchandise." He went into the drug busi- ness, and at the end of the first year he was able to sell out his stock with the loss of half his capital. He then went into the manufacture of matches, which in less than a year brought him to the position meant by that significant word SHALL T GO TO THE PACIFIC COAST? jg "broke." With no money, he came down to first principles, went to work at his trade, and is now a wealthy wholesale dealer in New York City. Whatever talent Providence may have endowed you with, it is best to cultivate that, and not rush after the impossible until you can financially afford it, for education, even that of experience, costs money here. For instance, if you were of the farm " to the manor born," it is best to remain one until independence shall have been achieved in that vocation. Every one in starting for the Pacific coast should make certain resolutions that are as unalterable as the laws of the Medes and Persians. First, never touch spirituous liquors. Leave drinking to the pioneers of '49, many of whose throats have be- come case-hardened. Remember the bane of Cal- ifornia is wine- and brandy-drinking. Millions of gallons of intoxicating liquors are manufactured every year, and millions and millions of money are squandered by drink. You cannot compromise with this habit here and remain temperate and fortunate. Do not try to beat a professional gambler out of his coin. You will not succeed, even if he seem to be drunk, for he never is. Live by all means economically, and whatever may be your receipts, try to save part of them. Fully make up your mind before starting what you intend to engage in, and 20 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. then do that and nothing else. Vacillatibn is ex- pensive. This work is intended to afford reliable informa- tion, sufficient for your direction, in selecting a location for a home. Above all, unless wealthy, let mining enterprises of all kinds alone, for it is far better to let millionaires draw the blanks, and they are legion in comparison with the prizes. One great cause of disappointment to the immi- grant is a wrong idea, fostered by articles written by land-sharks and others who are financially interested in encouraging immigration, giving false, or at least overdrawn accounts of the chances and facilities for making money enjoyed by residents of the Pacific coast. We would not, upon the other hand, discourage any one, nor depreciate the facilities and chances in this country. There are good opportunities, and very much that is charming, but each man, as a rule, should be his own adviser and agent in all financial matters, so far as financial speculations are concerned. This book is not written in the inter- est of any speculator or real estate manipulator. We have, in some instances, given statements that seem to be highly colored, if not incredible. But we have given them because they are facts, and show what the country is capable of doing. The truth is, that here the same energy is re- quired, and the same industry essential, as in other SHALL I GO TQ THE PACIFIC COAST? 2 1 parts of the world. And, indeed, I am inclined to think it requires more, for here it is either success or failure financially. This portion of the world has steep hills, and a man on the down track moves very rapidly. A medium in prosperity or adversity is not the rule, we are inclined to think. A strong point in favor of California is, that a competency is gained, if gained at all, before old age has destroyed the faculty for enjoying the fruits of one's labor. I have not yet heard of a case of any man who understood the business in which he was engaged, and followed it for five or six years, starting free from debt, who did not become independent in all cases except mining, which is an exceedingly ille- gitimaie legitimate business. Debts are ruinous, particularly from the high rate of interest, which, with the best security (real estate), ranges, accord- ing to the locality, from one to three per cent, per month. No man should entertain the thought for a moment of starting in business on borrowed cap- ital, unless he entertains the unfortunate idea that " he has nothing to lose and all to gain." It may at least prove very unfortunate to the person of whom he borrows the capital. Better, by far, for his own personal feelings, his credit, his family, his all, to start in some humble business, and work his way up on capital that he knows is his awn. 22 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. It may be said to all in general, but agricultur- ists in particular, that there is plenty of room, as may be seen by reference to the account given of San Bernardino County alone. Land monopolists are in the way of immigration, but these will of _ necessity yield to the pressure as time rolls on, and their vast possessions will be subdivided. Land is abundant and of the best quality. There are a limited number of machine-shops and factories for the mechanic, rivers and bays for the sailor, and unlimited underground workings for the miner. There is also a laborious and ripe field for the minister, and unlimited number of children for the teacher, and quibblings and crime to be settled by the lawyer, and sickness, notwithstanding the won- derful climate, to be cured or increased hy the physician. LOSS OR GAIN, WHYf 23 CHAPTER III. •' LOSS OR GAIN, WHY ? " No help nor hope nor view had I, nor person to befriend me. So I must toil and sweat and broil and labor to sustain me ; To plough and sow, to reap and mow, my father bred me early ; For one, he said, to labor bred, was a match for fortune fairly." We have our adaptations in mental ballast, physical strength, moral force, financial ability, etc. By these is the determination to triumph made absolutely successful. Success in the broad- est acceptation of the term depends upon these possessions. Laws of adaptation run through all the woof and web of human experience. You may denominate it a divine " call," as that held by the orthodox ministry. Why not ? It does no injus- tice to man or dishonor to God, surely. The min- istry, doubtless, saves more souls, but certainly does not fill a greater area in God's plan than the coiiscientious farmer or honest laborer. Adapta- tion is the great desideratum after all, and the really successful man cannot eliminate any of the elements mentioned in the beginning of this chap- ter. The Rothschilds have been but partially successful, because they have succeeded only in 24 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. finances. But they have grandly succeeded there, because adapted to financial manipulations. A. T. Stewart made a successful merchant, but mayhap he would have failed as a farmer. This is a di- versified world. Various temperaments, various climates, various causes, having their various effects, are observed everywhere, and wise is he who joins affinities. Thousands have been lured to these shores by the glowing accounts given of this country, while thousands of others, because of adverse circum- stances rendering it impossible for them to come, have " Sat and gazed and wondered" in a spirit of bitter disappointment, because they, too, could not come. Many have been fortunate in not being able to come, and many unfortunate because they are here. All changes should be made with reference to some legitimate end ; never change for change sake. True, it is said that "change of pasture fattens cattle," but it is the pasture that gives the increase, and not the mere change. Change some- times takes from close provender to no provender at all. Thousands utterly fail in this country, and go back eastward breathing out anathemas against the country and people, not because there was LOSS OR CAIN, WHYf 25 nothing worth gaining, but because tliey never had a well-defined idea of what they wanted to gain, or any adaptation for the special means of livelihood that chance to be open. We have already intimated that under certain conditions some need hardly expect success on the Pacific coast ufltil there shall have been a radical change in the ways of business and rules of society. That there is a great deal of quasi honesty no one will deny. And to intensify the idea, and say that there is a great deal of first-class stealing, yet under legitimate names, is but stating a well-known fact. Yet notwithstanding this, it is entirely safe to say that business principles more strictly govern commercial transactions here than anywhere else in the United States. Promptness, energy, economy, and frankness are essential char- acteristics in successful, legitimate business. And this is the only kind of business that should be desired. This part of the great sisterhood of States is to a degree isolated from the rest of the country, so that California is an imperimn in imperio. This very fact of isolation by a great distance from " the States" has been a means of selecting those that have sought the Pacific coast as a per- manent home or field for business. A peculiar class of people are here, and have been from the discovery of gold in 1 848. The Mexican War had 26 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. taken from their homes in the East men of all classes and grades, but men of strong physique and nerve, having metal of which heroes are made, for war calls out the nation's most valorous men, albeit they are sometimes men of bad hearts and abandoned lives. Such was the character of many of the men that rushed against the land of Monte- zuma in 1846. The treaty of peace with Mexico threw upon the country a band of men made ad- venturers by nature or their experience in the war. They were without employment, and many had no desire to return to their native country. Hence, attracted by the new country that had just been ceded to the government, many drifted to Cali- fornia to be participants in the exciting scenes that followed. Adventurers are made of good material ; they may sometimes be warped and angular in char- acter, but, if properly controlled, make the best of citizens. The influx of immigration from '48 to '52, and to a great degree in succeeding years, was composed of this class of men. Drones, as a rule, are not the stirring, go-ahead, valorous men that conquer and utilize the world's outposts. This adventurous class of men have given a character to the whole Pacific coast that is world-wide, and that will continue through many decades. Who does not know that Cali- fornians are noted for their energy and enterprise ? LOSS OR GAIN. WHY? 27 Foss's celebrated stage-drives to the Geysers, whose break-neck speed hundreds will remember, was in a staging way what the whole population do in a commercial line. Fortunes have been made and squandered, leaving the possessor pen- niless, in a week. The great distance of California from the East- ern States, where the controlling men were to come from, the hazardous journey, and the great dangers attending it, were barriers against all except such as had strong mental and physical endowments. And the very same, to a slight degree, yet culls the class that comes to this coast. It is not making an overdrawn statement to say that the highest order of intelligence is to be found on the Pacific coast. There is more universality of education among the people than in any con- siderable part of the United States. " Hence the success that is seen everywhere. Money, as we have already indicated, is not picked up anywhere, but is secured by intelligent efforts. It is readily seen why many succeed and many fail in this country. The faint-hearted young man, whose idea of happiness is to be found in the im- mediate neighborhood that gave him birth, will soon learn that he is ill-adapted to the hurly-burly of California. Mother's affection should ever be cherished ; 28 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. slie is the best and dearest one on earth. But it must be remembered that if the extreme West is sought as a future home, her apron-strings do not span the mountains and plains that intervene. Many a man, good and true, to my knowledge, has most signally failed because he could not practically sever himself from home, and leap strong and unfettered upon the stage of success. Will and spirit are worth more than money here. With them you may be penniless and acquire a''fortune, but without them your wealth goes, never to return. If men lack success here, in nine cases out of ten it is because they lack adaptation. Positiveness is among the first necessary articles, then, if you haven't money ; but little matter, if you have will and energy. Money is here in suf- ficient abundance for every one that comes, if he but seek it properly. There is great diversity in California ; this has reference to the gifts of Nature as well as human character. Hence success depends largely upon manipulations with reference to these diversities. Even energy and brains ad libitum will not extract a fortune from a barren desert. A clearly defined idea of the end to be gained should always lie at the very beginning of the journey to this coast. " Never go it blind," if you would succeed, is an old adage, and never LOSS OR CAIN, WHY? 29 had more force than here. Make up your mind distinctly what you expect to do when you shall have arrived, then be governed only by the cir- cumstances that bear upon your desired occu- pation. The nature .of the climate must be considered, for climate is as varied almost as landscapes or a native's word. If you be, or intend to be, a farmer, the soil must be your temporary theme at least. Nature has thrown a goodly garb over all the land, but, " mark well," do not trust to appear-" ances. Invest cautiously ; a thousand will entice you ; prospects the most inviting will unfold before you ; and if you have been a matter-of-fact, domes- tic kind of a man, the tendency will he to invest, and " make a corner" on all the opportunities, or a sufficient number of them to entirely " corner" you. Perhaps, of all places, more calm, steady thought is required here. No land,, to a given number of acres, produces more abundantly than California. But agricultural pursuits require more thoughtfulness here than anywhere else. A successful farmer in this coun- try would, if he were to farm on the same prin- ciples he does in the States, make a lamentable failure. The proper time, if used, and the right kind and amount of labor, are sure to bloom out in an abundant harvest. A young man, without money or capital, save 30 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. his own will and nerve, hired some land, borrowed money from his landlord to buy grain, and put in his crop. It was an auspicious time and a favor- able year. So promising was the harvest that the landlord cancelled the debt for borrowed money, and gave the young man fifteen hundred dollars in ready cash for his claim. This was an amount of money very respectable, when it is remembered that it was made without any capital being in- vested, and not to exceed perhaps two months' actual labor. This must not be permitted to allure any young man to attempt a trip across the continent expect- ing a like success ; it might not be found. Like opportunities may be found, but they are not now, nor have they ever been, the rule. Financial failures are of almost daily occurrence in California. But while there are failures, and many that do no more than make a livelihood, there is no doubt but more money can be made here with less labor and money, if both be judi- ciously invested, than in any other State in the LJnion. Many lose their spirit upon arriving, and droop like a wounded bird, unable to rise above even the petty barriers that interpose, and finally that emi- nently unpleasant yet rarely fatal disease, nostalgia, carries the disappointed one beyond the mountains eastwards "to the familiar scenes of the long ago." LOSS OR GAIN, WHY? 31 Nine out of ten expect to see no difference on this coast from the scenes of the East, save per- haps strange faces. What a mistake ! Go to France. Stand in the Champs Elysees, or hover around the Tuileries, or promenade the day long the city boulevards. Cross down to Italy. Visit Rome, walk the Appian Way, but debar from the thoughts and eye historic interest and the sur- rounding European evidences, and yet you will not feel the change more sensibly, save a little more — and only a little more — of the foreign tongue. Go to London, ,and, save the places of history that would surround you, you would not be more sensibly impressed with the change than you are in the metropolis of this coast from the scenes of your childhood's home — and manhood's, too, for that matter — in the East. You may have felt the financial burden in coming. The vast majority do. It was evident that you felt hampered in the East, else you would, not have come. Even one first-class fare, including etceteras, is not a little matter, to be played with as a toy. Long before you have reached your destination you have unmistakably marked the decrease of your money and a tre- mendous increase in prices of everything you purchase. The morning newspaper that you purr- chased at home for not to exceed five pennies you now get for twice or thrice or four times that 33 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. amount. But consolation is somewhat restored with the thought that " I need not buy these arti- cles." But eat you must, — ^and at a price two or three times the expense at home. This is en route. When you arrive, living is cheap, — -even cheaper than a corresponding living East,— but different money is required from what you have been .using. That which you have always used as ready money no longer passes, and you sell the diminishing pile at, it seems to you, a heavy discount. For gold and silver alone pass here, — or, rather, we should say gold, because even silver is frequently discounted. Here you learn the uses— for the first time, it may be — of the memorable "bit," whose value is as adjustable as many of the conveniences you have to deal with. You go shopping (you have learned that a " bit" is really twelve and a half cents) ; you buy a bit's worth, for instance; you can't make the change, of course, for who ever heard of pennies in California commerce? Twenty-five cents is tendered and a dime given back as change. You at once feel that you have lost two cents and a half. It is not the loss especially that hurts, but the principle of taking what is not even asked that goads. You learn that that is the ordinary way of deal- ing, and you at once feel that you are in a land of financial sharps and in danger of being " fleeced." LOSS OR GAIN, WHYf 33 This is a rule in" ordinary traffic all over the entire coast, and is not so greatly disliked when it is once understood and "the rule begins to work both ways," — that is, you take the " long bit" for twelve and a half cents, as others have done from you. But the peculiar notions of small change on the Pacific coast have certainly been of no special advantage to the masses, but an absolute disad- vantage. The habit of refusing pennies, fivercent pieces, dimes, and, in better times, quarters, sprung from the "good old days" when every man felt rich even if he was not absolutely so. The custom might sometimes be practicable, but certainly has not been the best for the country. It may sometimes be unpopular to take or give your small change, but certainly it is neither un- manly nor unjust. Even California would doubt- less have been better off if she had in every respect have lived a little more in the United States. These very customs that we have alluded to regarding small things have helped discourage many a man, and assisted in his failure. Let me see, don't we get the idea somewhere of battles lost or won in ancient times just by the peculiar indications of the flight of birds ? It was a small matter, but it had its effect. So of these little things, just at a time when the spirit is sensitive B* 34 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. and discouraged by the strangertess of its sur- roundings. Economy, of course, is the first law in success here as well as elsewhere. And it can.be practised very rigidly if one desires. Fashion has not such an iron grasp upon men as in the East It is in perfect order to wear anything that is decent, and to eat anything that is healthful and life-sus- taining. Domestic expenses need not be great, — provisions are not expensive, and some of them are very cheap. Everything you have will bring money, and a good price. The market is always open. CHAPTER IV. nature's returns to the husbandman. " Do not smile at me, that I cast her off, For thou shall find she will outstrip all praise, And make it halt behind her." — Shakspeare. A VOLUME lies before us for this chapter, if we wt)uld but collect the material for it. For who could write of the incredulous productions of this State without filling a volume, if he were to tell it all ? To write less than the truth, when one can give the facts, is to reveal unmistakable evidence of cowardice ; while to write facts as they are, is NATURE'S RETURNS. 35 certain to call upon one's self the charge of lacking veracity. And it were not so difficult if the reader and the writer could look only at one locality, and there find what we hope to condense in these few pages. But sjuch cannot be done and do justice to the greatest country yet discovered on earth. Here are nearly 200,000 square miles of wonders, and vegetable and mineral wealth, lying all the way, too, from the regions of perpetual snow to the. regions below the level of the sea, and on a horizontal plane from north of Mount Shasta to near the Gulf of California. And it might be added, that the area extends to the frozen shores of Alaska. And yet, of the treasures lying north of the south line of Oregon this chapter has but little to do ; enough troops up in array before us to subdivide into sections. From the time you leave the snow line, near " Cape Horn," on the Central Pacific Railroad, or step from the steamer in San Francisco Bay, you enter the domains of one continuous garden the year round. While the Eastern States are locked in the embrace of winter, and ybu travel from New York to the eastern line of this State in furs and wraps, these farmers are so^ying their grain and planting seeds that will produce a harvest incredible in magnitude. These January days, as the mercury revels among the zeros almost any- 36 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. where in the East, miles upon miles of fields of wheat are being sown, that in a few months will make a golden covering for tens of thousands of acres. The people of the East have a very incorrect idea of the magnitude and manner of farming in this country. Wheat is now, and will be for all time to come, perhaps, the great staple product. Already it is shipped to the Eastern States, Europe, Asia, Australia, and other countries, and nearly all the islands of the sea. There is hardly a doubt but California can itself produce enough of this article to subsist the present population of the United States. In the last six months there have been shipped to San Francisco alone 9,541,000 quintals of wheat. This would be equivalent to 15,901,700 bushels, nearly. As this was a six months' shipment only, we may reasonably suppose that the amount would be doubled in the year, making 31,803,400 bushels to that one market. Now take into consideration home consumption, and the amount shipped from other points, and the aggregate becomes enormous. There are now, while I write (January), in the port of San Francisco, under engagement to load, twenty-five vessels, representing 34,400 tons of tonnage, with a carrying capacity of 1,000,000 quintals. There was shipped from Oregon, independent NATV/iE'S RETURNS. 37 of home consumption, in the year 1876, 2,894,722 quintals of wheat, amounting to nearly five million bushels. This was valued at nearly five millions of dollars, and was a gain of three-quarters of a million in value in a twelvemonth. This is from an area of country not one-fifth as large as the wheat-growing portion of California. At the risk of wearying the reader, I shall give a very brief idea of the way of farming, for the wheat farms are sometimes very great, and it is thought frequently in the East to be impossible to farm on such gigantic principles ; for farmers here sometimes have thousands of acres in wheat alone. I heard of one farmer who had forty thousand acres of wheat sown. I cannot vouch for that ; I did not see the farmer or his farm. I did travel forty-odd miles by stage line, through one continuous body, of wheat, in the San Joaquin Valley (pronounced San Wau-keen'). Of course, this belonged to several men. As soon as the rainy season begins, say in Oc- tober or November, the farmers begin their plough- ing and sowing. Great numbers of teams are set to work, generally with the gang-plough, and almost immediately numbers of men begin sowing the grain, all by machinery. This is kept up month after month, or until the farmer has his desired amount of wheat sown. There is no cold weather to hinder him, and generally not rain storm severe 4 38 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. enough to retard him. If he desires, he can sow continuously from November till May. The dry weather begins about the first of May, giving a delightful season for the wheat to ripen, which it does as gradually as it ie sown. The wheat is harvested very differently from what it is in the East. No dew to bother, and the storms are hidden months away in the distance. Reapers, in number proportionate to the magnitude of the harvest, are set to work. Instead of reapers, headers are often used, — a machine that is adjusted so as to clip off the heads of the wheat, thus saving a vast amount of labor in not handling the straw. When these are used, the wheat is often threshed at once and the grain sacked. The wheat is threshed without binding or stack- ing, as in the East, save in limited quantities, the grain being forked up like loose hay. When threshed and sacked, it is often ricked up and left lying in the field for months. These ricks of wheat are sometimes enormous. When Vallejo was a greater shipping point than now, sometimes there were miles of ricks of wheat waiting shipment. Wheat has been known to yield one hundred and fifty bushels to the acre. This amount, of course, is rare. A friend of mine gathered 23,000 bushels of barley from 285 acres near San Pablo. California wheat is noted in all the markets of the NATURE'S RETURNS. 39 world for its fine quality, and requires a great deal less labor to raise it, and is much more certain of a bountiful harvest, than in the Eastern States. Illinois ranks next to California in the growth of wheat, but owing to the damp weather, etc., the harvest is not so certain. This is not a corn-growing State, and yet some parts of California are being planted in corn with very fine success. Los Angeles County and parts of Santa Barbara and San Bernardino Counties are being developed as very fine corn-growing sections, — equalling the Middle or Western States. In some places irrigation is not even required. I have seen good corn growing at Santa Barbara with no irri- gation but the fogs that roll in from the sea during the night. In San Bernardino County, near the town of that name, eighty acres of corn, averaging one hundred and fifty bushels to the acre, and the ears so high that a man could not reach them stand- ing on the ground, were raised entirely without artificial irrigation. Corn could be cultivated very successfully in many parts of the State if it were possible to furnish a sufficient amount of irriga- tion. Almost all kinds of vegetables yield enormously, and a frugal, industrious hu.sbandman can reap large profits. Potatoes are one of the main products of Cali- 40 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. foinia. They can be raised, too, where many other vegetables do not grow well. The amount pro- duced during the past year (1876) was not up to the average amount, yet was certainly very great in the aggregate. There were shipped to San Fran- cisco during that year 7-65,895 sacks, or about 76,589,500 pounds, or near 1,531,790 bushels. This will indicate to the reader something near the amount produced. Nearly or quite a thousand acres, each, are raised by many farmers. This part of agricultural life requires less labor than some others, and is quite remunerative, for the average yield is always fair, and a good market always sure. Perhaps there is no department of agriculture that pays so well for the amount of money invested as a vegetable garden. The productions are very great, and the market always good.. Onions are very prolific, and grow very large, with little labor. Sometimes they grow to be eight inches in diam- eter. Peanuts, in certain localities, are raised easily and produce prodigiously, and the market is always good. Pumpkins, especially in the southern part of the State, are very productive. Sometimes, and not unfrequently, the yield is so great that one can walk over a field stepping alone on the pumpkins. I knew of an instance where a gentleman paid the price of his land — one hundred dollars per acre — NATURE'S RETURNS. 41 the first year by the product of pumpkins which he raised on it, and that, too, without any more labor than ploughing the ground and planting the seeds. This fruit finds a ready sale, and will keep in some sections the year round. I saw pumpkins at Santa Barbara more than a year old. Tomatoes live in the open fields for several years. I have seen them four years old. And this fruit, fresh and luscious, can be had every month in the year. I have seen beets as long as a man. They are very profitable, being used not only for the table but for feeding cattle and the manufacture of sugar. Strawberries are very profitable, — as much so as any of the productions of the garden. Think of it! yielding every month in the year. This January day they adorn many a table and gladden many a heart. And not your little, dwarfed kind, that look as if they were ashamed they ever came into the world, but large, plump ones, redder than a maiden's lips. Think of strawberries six inches in circumference! And yet such are not so unfre- quent as you would think. Fine, scarlet, tempting ones can be had on this very wintry day, and that, too, fresh from the vines. Let me point to one in- stance. Out from Santa Cruz about six miles now can be seen a fine, tempting patch growing in the .open air. The owner of the ranch says he can at any day or month of the year go into the patch and gather at least twenty quarts of these luscious 42 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. berries in a short time. He has three thousand vines in cultivation, which" occupy half an acre of ground, and from these he gathered during the past year six thousand quarts of the large crimson beauties. Half of this quantity he sold in the local markets at twenty cents per quart. Blossoms, green and flaming red ripe strawberries smile and look sedate, and blush side by side the whole year through on the same vine. Does such a crop pay ? They are not as much trouble to cultivate as a patch of string-beans would be ; then, at an average of twenty cents a quart, the halfacre would net six hundred dollars per year. CHAPTER V. MINES AND MINING. " Wealth heaped on wealth, nor truth nor safety buys, The dangers gather as the treasures rise." Dr. Johnson. In a previous chapter I perhaps may have ap- peared to speak too disparagingly of mines and mining enterprise. The only reason for this is the-> fact that mining is speculating, and speculations are always uncertain. MINES AND MINING. 43 But it is a well-known fact that the unprece- dentedly rapid development and subsequent growth of this country were brought about by our mines. Also, that the very backbone of the existence of Nevada, and to a great extent of California as well, is the possession of unlimited mineral resources. It is hardly worth while in a work of this kind to attempt to give more than an outline of the progress of mining, from the finding of the fifty- cent " chispa," at Coloma, in California, by Mar- shall, to the present day of " Bonanzas" and wild- cat stocks. The first mining on this coast, as is well known was for gold alone, and that in the most crude and simple manner: first by the "cradle or rocker,' then the enormous improvement of the " long Tom,' and finally with " sluices," which, on a large scale, is the method of to-day for working "placer' mines. The first comers merely worked the richest bars on the rivers, or the mere beds of ravines> and that in the most superficial manner, apparently satisfied with the cream alone, so to speak. Hydraulic mining has at present almost entirely taken the place of all other methods of working surface diggings. This manner of washing was first introduced by Edward E. Matteson, at Amer- ican Hill, Nevada County, California, in the year 1852, and, from his success, it soon became a very prominent feature of our mining undertakings. 44 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. The "sine qua non" in hydraulic working is fall for the water sufificient to give the requisite force, say from eighty to two hundred feet perpendicular. A hose of great strength is then prepared, from ten inches in diameter upwards, which carries the water into a massive receiving-box, to which are attached from two to half a dozen smaller hose with metal pipes, and nozzles attached, similar to those in use on fire-engines. The immense weight of water escaping through the pipes plays upon the bank of earth with great force, and, by play- ing upon the bottom and undermining, large caves occur by the action of the water, by which hun- dreds of tons of dirt are pulverized at once, and easily carried into the sluices by the water alone. There is often a larger quantity of water neces- sary, especially in soft ground, than can be forced through the pipes, and a stream is allowed to run over the bank and into the sluices. By this means an enormous quantity of dirt can be washed daily, and even if the mine is compara- tively poor, from the amount worked the pay is good, and in cases of rich diggings it is im- mense. The gold thus washed out is saved by long strings or trains of sluices, of different widths and depths, according to the size of the mine and the quantity of water used. In the bottom of these sluices are placed " riffles," or false bottoms, of many SLUICE MINIl^G. MINES AND MINING. 45 different kinds and shapes, according to the taste or judgment of those using them. . Perhaps as good a style as any in use is made from the blocks, three or four inches in thickness, sawed from the round bodies of trees. These blocks are secured in the bottom of the sluice, and, from their shape, leave openings between theni, in which the gold, from its weight, settles and remains, — the dirt and rocks going off with the water. At stated times the sluices are "cleared up;" that is, the blocks or " riffles" are removed, and the bottom of the sluice carefully washed and swept, the main part of the water having previously been turned off. In many localities quicksilver is used to collect and hold the fine gold. At various times, in the early days of mining, gold was found in greater or less quantities in quartz, until the idea obtained that gold must be held only in the immense quartz ledges breaking out here and there over the face of the moun- tains. Finally, some more adventurous than others turned their attention entirely towards these ledges, and but a short time had elapsed before the deep or underground system of mining was fairly in- augurated. The " rastra" and mills took the place, in a great measure, of other methods of acquiring the precious metal. Some of the ledges were fabulously rich. 46 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. The Allison Ranch mine, as it was called, at one time was considered worth two millions of dollars. The Amador, in the county of the same name, paid its owner, Alvinza Haywood, one thousand dollars, net, per day. I only mention these as among the more prominent. But the whole State of California is filled with them, of greater or less value, and a century will see them still worked. It was not until the year 1859 that silver attracted the attention of prospecters, and Nevada took a prominent place among the rich, mineral-producing countries. This Territory, up to that time, was only known as the terror of immigrants, — with its deserts, and miles of barren, sage-covered plains and valleys. Silver was first discovered in Nevada by a man named Comstock, in the year 1859, on Mount Davidson, in what is now known as the Comstock lode. The novelty of the discovery, and the in- experience of those who were interested in it, rendered it impossible, for a considerable time, to procure sufficient capital for the development of the new " find." At last, the evident richness of the ore, and the fact that Mexico had an immense revenue from her silver-mines, caused capitalists and laborers to turn their steps towards the Washoe country, as it was all called in those days; and the silver interest grew until it fairly threw the search for gold in the MINES AND MINING. 47 shade for the time^ and Nevada became the " Ophir" of the Pacific. The Comstock lode was first struck on the side of Mount Davidson, above the present site of Virginia City, and nearly half a mile west of the present location of the works. The cropping of the ledge and all the ore near the surface was very rich, and had to be hauled to Eagle and Washoe Valley for reduction, as the mills were located in those places. The method of reducing silver ore at that time was quite im- perfect, and the " tailings," or residue, was often more valuable than the bullion extracted. Upon sinking on the ledge in the different mines, which extends from north to south four or five miles, at a comparatively small depth, the ore-body gave out, and the opinion was freely expressed that the Washoe silver-mines had " gone up," to use the miners' vernacular. But tJiere was too much money already invested, and too many energetic men had interested them- selves, to give up on so small a showing. Then followed the dark days of the Comstock, while mines of every description, from Washing- ton Territory to Arizona, were located and in- corporated, and a perfect whirlwind of worthless " wild-cat" stock swept over the land. It was only necessary to show a piece of rock, accompanied by an assayer's certificate, and the stock would be 48 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. freely taken by rich and poor^ It was carried to such an extent that Mark Twain's story of a piece of grindstone giving an assay of several hundred dollars per ton was not much exaggerated. Every man had his pockets full of stock and his hands full of pieces of rock, until it seemed we were a race of geologists, and slightly mad at that. As a matter of course the reaction must come, and it was terrible to legitimate mining interests. Still, through it all the genuine survived, and at last the Crown Point and Belcher mines struck a " Bonanza," and the future of Virginia and the Comstock was secured. These two mines went up, and still up, in the market to fabulous figures, carrying with them all others in the vicinity, until locations which never will yield an ounce of bullion sold for hundreds of dollars per foot. All things have an end, and so that deposit, though large, was finally worked out, and the Crown Point and Belcher pass away among the things that were, until further developments at a greater depth. About the time of the temporary death of the two mines above mentioned the present "Bo- nanza," or ore deposit, was struck, completely eclipsing all former developments on the ledge, or in the United States, if not surpassing anything in the world yet discovered. The ore-body, first MINES AND MINING. ^g struck in the ConsQlidated Virginia, was found to extend into the California, and hopes were enter- tained that it also reached into the Ophir. But as :yet there is no proof that such is the case. The Comstock lode has been worked more or less for fourteen .years. In that time it has yielded ;^ 1 50,000,000, or an average of ^10,714,000 per year. The yield in 1859 was ^14,000,000. It is probably more than that this year, and may be expected to average ^15,000,000 for the next quar- ter of a century. No other lode has ever done so well. The Veta Grande, of Zacatecas, from 1548 to 1832, covering two hundred and eighty-four years, yielded ^666,000,000, or ,^2,350,000 a year. The Potosi (Bolivia) mines, worked for over two hundred and fifty years, produced the enormous sum of ^1,260,000,000, but that is less than ^5,000,000 a year. It is said the Raymond and Ely yielded ;^4,ooo,ooo in the year 1872. The silver-mines of Nevada and Utah, considering the short time they have been worked, are the richest in the world. The Consolidated Virginia has, yielded from five to six hundred tons of ore per day for more than two years, and the California a like amount for several months. What the future may bring forth time alone can tell, but with the experience of the past, and the energy and indomitable perseverance backed by enormous wealth of those engaged in prospect- c 5 -. so BEYOND THE SIERRAS. ing, developments must continue to be made for ensuing ages. During the years passed since the first discovery of silver, prospecting has been going on over the* whole coast for silver, copper, and all other min- erals and metals, with varied success. In the eastern part of Nevada large deposits of galena, or sulphuret of lead, have been found, all more or less argentiferous. In Eureka several large fur- naces are in operation, with all modern improve- ments both for "rapidity of working and facility for saving the precious metals. The bullion thus ex- tracted is in bulk, mostly lead, but containing from two hundred to five. hundred dollars per ton of gold and silver. Other portions of the State are producing bul- lion of great amount, some fairly fine and some containing every possible variety of base metals, such as iron, zinc, antimony, nickel, etc. But the yield of silver in the aggregate is enormous, and the probabilities are in favor of an increase rather than diminution. But do not be alarmed, for silver will never remain a drug ! There have also been very large fields of borate of lime and soda found and worked, giving us as a home production borax, than which, perhaps, no more useful article could be found for the demands of our people. We have also beds of sulphur, which are at MINES AND MINING. 51 present being worked, and sulphuric acid manu- factured with which is produced sulphate of cop- per, or the "blue-stone" of commerce, an article indispensable in amalgamating silver. Do not think we are a bad people because sulphur is so handy. Coal is also found in several portions of the State, and in a few years undoubtedly we shall not need to import any fuel for our furnaces or chemi- cals for our mills.- The whole country seems fitted to be self-sustaining in that which is and must be its support — its mines. In no other portion of the habitable globe are fortunes made and lost so rapidly or with so little apparent effect. The millionaire of to-day and the pauper of to-morrow appears equally jolly, and the rush still goes on. But take it all in all it is far better for a man of small means to apply himself to a more safe and steady business. For mining speculations, like gambling, have a fascination from which it is very hard to break away. So, my Eastern friends, do not commence. Keep out of the maelstrom, and your life will be happier and better in every respect. But if you will deal in stocks, do not, I beg of you, buy " wild-cats'," or neglect to pay your assessments. It don't pay, and you will become a used-up " community" in a few months. Stick to dividend-paying mines, and never fail in collecting your dues as fast as de- clared, and you may be happy yet. 52 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. CHAPTER VI. A GARDEN IN A GARDEN. " Flowers look up to heaven, from whence They have their nourishment, — Moss-hid flowers, fragrant and concealed, Like hidden charity." One of the finest rides I ever had was down to San Jose (pronounced San Ho-za), by the bay fifty miles, and then by stage six. The sky is nearly always clear here in the summer-time. It was at that season of the year when I first visited this city. This made our journey exceedingly pleasant, as the air was warm, and we could see without lim- itation almost. The bay spread out around us like burnished silver, and the day was especially calm. The jewel of a little steamer that bore us down was not heavily burdened, so that our speed was not monotonous. The scenery is delightful. Mountains lean against the sky, but far enough away to mellow the view. The valley was variegated with gathering harvest and ripening vegetation, for all grades are here to be seen, from planting the seed to the gathered sheaf A GARDEN IN A GARDEN. S3 Alviso was the landing-place of our steamer. This is some six miles from the bay, and is reached by the crookedest little creek, I suppose, a boat ever floated upon. The rank vegetation that lined its banks sometimes made it impossible to see it for more than fifty yards in advance of us. I could not help but think, as I looked over the beautiful valley, — the Santa Clara, — of what Gov- ernor Hendricks, of Indiana, once said to me con- cerning this valley. " I do not think the garden of Eden ever equalled that valley," was his remark. I don't know about that.' I have always had a good deal of profound veneration for that ancient garden, yet there were some opaque things about it ; and there are some things about this valley that are objectionable, and why not ? It is certainly earthly, but then it is very charming. There are better agricultural districts in Califor- nia, and with perhaps better climate ; yet in many respects this is one of the most desirable spots in the State. Our first impressions were of the best as we en- tered the town on the lovely street called Alameda. A grand Grange picnic was being held, which gave the general appearance of a gala day, and added to the attractions. It is said this city has fifteen thousand inhabit- ants. Minus that number two thousand would perhaps be nearer the fact ; but the difference, one 54 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. way or the other, of a few thousand does not mat- ter. You almost intuitively ssiy, " How I should like to live here !" I had letters of introduction to a friend in this city, which was quite an advantage to me in getting such information as I desired. At this city was my first view of orange-trees, figs, etc., although they grow north of this, but I had not had an opportunity of seeing them. I was shown a field of barley that would yield a hundred bushels to the acre. The barley would average full five and a half feet in height. The owner said it was still growing at the rate of about an inch a day. It is marvellous what luxuriant growths are here seen in vegetation ; and yet some other parts of the State excel this. Real estate is high, and undoubtedly debars, somewhat, persons from locating here who other- wise like the place. The atmosphere is clear and pure, but in the evenings and mornings it is un- pleasantly chilly to a new-comer, but, I suppose, very delightful to one used to it. They have frost occasionally, but never snow to as much as to cover the ground. We would not detract an iota from the fair merits of Southern California, for that is the garden-spot of the State. But the whole State has been called a garden, and we certainly do no injustice in saying that this is a beautiful garden in a garden. A GARDEN IN A GARDEN. 55 While it very materially differs from the south- ern part of the State, it has enough of the tropical in its character to make it delightful. This is a section in which grow the most beau- tiful and fragrant flowers. And they sometimes present queer features. I saw three different col- ored roses, white, yellow, and red, all growing on one stalk. Here immense century-plants are some- times seen growing in the streets. I could not but think of the labor and anxiety the ladies of the East have for their flowers, putting them in hot-houses, and by various means pressing and coaxing them to grow, and after all only partially succeed, while here some that are very rare in the East become a nuisance in their great growth. In the East the .ladies are delighted if they can make the English ivy grow a little in the house, where it is kept as a pet, while here it climbs over houses, fences and all, if they will but let it. And the scarlet geranium grows so luxuriantly that it is necessary sometimes to cut it down with an axe, like cutting saplings. And heliotropes grow to be large bushes. This city has the distinction of being known as the Athens of California, as several fine institutions of learning are located here. A vast amount of local enterprise is manifested by San Jose and vicinity, more than in some Eastern cities of four times the inhabitants. A most beautiful boulevard 56 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. has been built by the city to the distance of eight or ten miles, running east of the city to a noted summer resort. This makes one of the most de- lightful drives I have anywhere seen in the State. Some rows of eucalyptus-trees have been planted, and are growing very beautifully along the entire length of this boulevard, making, in addition to the drive, two delightful walks. Through the kindness of a friend I was driven the entire length of this road to Alum Rock, which seems to be quite a resort, as the boulevard is built to this point. Alum Rock may, with some propriety, be called a mountain. This is literally saturated with alum. In some places you can gather clear, pure lumps as good as what you purchase from the apothecary. Just a little ways beyond is a clear, cold soda- spring, where we rested and slaked our thirst. Then close by is a bath-house for invalids, and not far off is another subterraneous tunnel bath arrangement, — I never learned what else to call it, — where gouty fellows bathe their painful limbs and backs. From under this flows an inky spring, whose waters are " black as night." The city, I have learned, with its accustomed enterprise, proposes to erect commodious bath- houses here, and run them gratuitously, or for a very small fee. It is to be hoped it will be done, as it would undoubtedly be a great sanitarium for the afflicted. A GARDEN IN A GARDEN. 57 The part of the valley through which the boule- vard passes is as delightful a body of land, and forms as fine a view, as I ever saw. When this part of the State was being settled it was thought the land was of no account. Wild mustard, such as grows in the gardens in the East, literally cov- ered the valley everywhere. It grew to the height of from ten to fifteen feet, and large enough for an ordinary-sized man to climb its stalks. A prominent gentleman, one well known in Cali- fornia, whose word is perfectly reliable, told me himself that he many a time climbed the mustard- stalks, hke climbing small saplings, to the dis- tance of several feet froni the ground just to test their strength. And he was a grown man. A ministerial' friend told me that he knew of a Bible agent getting lost in this " grove of mustard," and did not find his way out for a number of hours. The cattle that grazed upon the valley could not get through the thicket formed by the enormous growth, except where their travel would wear a path while the mustard was young. This shows the great richness of the soil. And the reader can well imagine the beauty of such a valley when the weeds and rubbish have been cleared away, and their places supplied by fruits and flowers of the richest and brightest kind. As far as eye can see is Nature's beauty charmingly displayed, brought out by the hands of toil and art. c* 58 BEYOND THE SIERRAS. Here are beautiful farms, winsome gardens, rich, orchards with luscious fruit, tropical and semi-tropi- cal productions, and large, comfortable residences. San Jose has the distinction of being the Athens of California. It is not ours to di-spute with her. She is linked on to Santa Clara, also a beautiful place^ and the Alameda — the street that unites them — forms one of the finest drives in the entire country. Several institutions of learning are lo- cated herCj the State Normal School and the Uni- versity of the Pacific being the most prominent. The city has many very handsome residences and public buildings. Its churches and church in- fluences are among the best west of the Rocky Mountains, being in an excellent condition, nu- merically and spiritually. This is a ' delightful place for a home, but openings for business are not very flattering. NORTH OF THE BAY. 59 CHAPTER VII. NORTH OF THE BAY. " The lesson which the many-colored skies, The flowers, and leaves, and painted butterflies. The deer's branched antlers, the gay bird that flings The tropic sunshine from its golden wings, The brightness of the human countenance. Its play of smiles, the magic of a glance, Foreverniore repeat, In varied tones and sweet. That beauty, in and of itself, is good." — Whittier. The b'eauty of California must be seen in mid- winter to be appreciated, and its distinct features and climatic effects are more plainly marked then than at any other time. Summer, so called, but in many places the real winter of the coast, is a time of parched ground, seared fields, and gather- ing harvests. It is much harder then to discern the essential difference of localities than in winter; you must form your opinion largely by that which chances to be seen, as matured products, for ex- ample. In winter, the humidity of the atmos- phere is condensed into rain, so that one can tell the amount of the rain-fall in various localities, — a very important matter in California. 6o BEYOND THE SIERRAS. It had better be stated just here that the so- called "rainy season" of this State is a relative delusion to the Eastern man. It is a common thought in the East that " it never rains, but poui s," in California during the wet season, so that it is a common expression, " I could not endure the {cr- petual rain for so many months." Of course, there are freshets here occasionally, like in every other country where it rains. Some years ago the Sacramento Valley was inundated for niiles upon miles on either side of the river. But that was a solitary instance in many years. Upon the contrary, the greatest want is more rain in the wet season. At this very time, when the winter is very far advanced, stock are reported to be dying in great numbers in some sections in the southern half of the State from the want of water. The rainy season in California, ordinarily, is about like a " wet April" in the Middle States. Copious showers mixed with sunshine, or whole days of rain, or whole days of clear, nice weather fill the time. But at no time is there that long, gloomy, cloudy, rainy, muddy, sickening weather so prevalent in the Eastern States. But where it rains, and where it rains enough, is by far a more important item -than as to where it remains too much. The effect and beauty of the winter are very NORTH OF THE BAY. 6 1 impressive, when going, as I did, direct from the snows and bleakness of the East down into the advanced spring-lil