Cornell University Library S 513.L32 Secrets of farming. 3 1924 000 957 625 THE JOHN • CRAIG LIBRARY COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000957625 SECRETS OF FARMING, BY JOHN LARGE. Deep autumn cultivation, With the needful application, Will produce wonders from the soil, And reward active men for their toil. LONDON : ALLEN, 20, TABWICIC LANB. SWINDON: BULL, VICTORIA STBBBT. 1863. [Entered at Stationer*' Hall.] ClUQUX '->* CltANSLAXlUN &H>tIiVfclJ.J PBINTED BY ALPBBD BULL, SWINDON. HIS GEACE THE DUKE OP BEAUFORT, K.G., (by his kind permission) THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY HIS OBLIGED AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. His Grace the Duke of Beaufort, K.GL The Most Noble the Marquis of Lansdowne. The Itigh.t Hon. the Earl of Clarendon. The Right Honourable the Earl of Suffolk and Berkshire. Sir John Neeld, Bart. The Eight Hon. T. Sotheron Estcourt, M.P. A. L. Goddabd, Esq., M.P., the Lawn, Swindon. H. N. Goddard, Esq., Cliffe Manor House. H. B. Caldwell, Esq., Lackham House. James Pbatt, Esq., "Wootton Bassett. A Friend, H. Archer, Jacob, Esq. Little-park Arkell,T.,Esq. Penhill, Swindon Atherton, G. Esq. Wanborough Bevan, C. Esq. Thornhill [sey Be van ,W. F.Esq . "Woodboro',Pe w- Bewley, John, Esq, Lydiard Bidmead, James, Esq. Greenway Bridges, W. Esq. Hillmarton Brind, W. Esq. Liddington Brown, H. Esq. Monkton Brown, W. Esq. Broad Hinton Brown, M. Esq. Cholderton Brown&Nephew,Messrs. Swindon Brown, J. Esq. Hummington Brown, J. W. Esq. Uffcott Brown, Pearce,Esq. Burderop Budd, Captain, Buekhill, Calne Burchell, Jacob, Esq.Lyneham Butcher,H.F.Esq.Easton,Pewsey Butler, G. Esq. Kennett Canning, K. Esq. Liddington Canning, T. Esq. Melksham Canning, II. Esq. Ramsbury-park Chamberlayne, Dr. Avebury Chesterman, Mr. Broadtown- Clark, I., Esq. Heddington Clark, Jonas, Esq. Lydiard Cole, J. Esq. Shaw, Swindon Crook, Mr. Woolstone Mills, Fa* ringdon, Berks Daubeny, Bev. G. Lydiard Day, Mr, Chaddington Dore, Mr. Wm. Swindon Edmonds, Mr. Wsoughton [don Edmonds, J. Esq.Blunsdon,Swin- ELlison, J. Esq. Lynehdm [don Francome, E. Esq.Haydon,Swin- Franklin , J .Esq . ChristianMalf ord Free, Mr. Hungerford [Abbey Freegard, J. Esq. , Braden Stoke Gale, J. H. Esq. Ogbourne Garlic, W. Esq. Greenhill Gauntlet, T. Esq. Wick,Marlboro' God wi fi,I>.Esq.Haydon,Swindon Godwin, John, Esq. Hillmarton Gregory, Nicholas, Esq. Spirthill Harding,R.Esq.Haydon,Swindon Harris, G. Esq. Calne Harris, T. Esq. „ Harrii, Iter. H. Winterbourn* Hathway, J. Esq. Tockenham Hathway, S. Esq. Preston Hawkins, J. L. Esq. Okus.Swindon Henly.W. Esq. Thornhill Henly, J. Esq. Vastern Henly, E. Esq. Lynefaam-court Henly, R. Esq. Calne HiU, W. jun. Esq. Marlborough Hooper, G. Esq. Wootton Bassett Horsell, Captain, Rabson Hoystrop, Mrs. Wootton Bassett Hull , H. Esq. Woodhay,Newbury Humphries, G. Esq. Town Mills, Bath Humphries, I. Esq. Broad Hinton Humphries, J. Esq. W: Bassett Humphries, J. Esq. „ Humphries, S. Esq. Noremarsh Inns, — , Esq. Brinkworth Jefferys, E. Esq. Lynehiim Jefferys, Stiles, Esq. Calne Keene, Hugh, Esq. Brinkworth Keram, T. Esq. Avebury Knight, Mac, Rev. H. Lydiard Large, Mr. B. Winterbourne Lea, C. J. Esq. Charlton, Malmes- bury Leighfleld, Mr. W. Park Grounds Lewis, Jonathan, Esq. Purton Lewis, Mrs. Bushton Lewis, T. Esq. Brinkworth Manning, W. Esq. Devizes Maskeleyne, Miss, Freegrove Matthews, H. Esq. Tockenham Matthews, J. Esq. Middle-hill Matthews, J. Esq. Chieveley Mills, C. Esq. Swindon Mills, Mr. Grittenham [ham Morris, J.Esq. Foxham, Chippen- Mundee, J. Esq. Wickfield [bury Keate, A. Esq. Knighton, Rams- Owen, C. Esq. Little Hinton Painter, John, Esq. Aldbourne Painter, T. Esq. Charlton, Mal- mesbury Parsons, E. Esq. Woottou Field* Parsons, W. F. Esq. Huntsmill Parsons, A. Esq. Hillniarton Phythian, Mr. V. surgeon, W : Bassett [Cricklada ' Pinuegtu-,J. Esq. Down Ampney, Pinniger, J. Esq. Kennett Pinniger, \V. Esq. Calne [dou Plunimer,R.Esq.Blunsdon,Swin- Plummer, T, Esq.Lydiard,Brook Farm [Devizes Plmnmer, W. Esq . Connock, Potter, W. Esq. Brinkworth I*ratt,Mrs. Avebury Pratt, W. F. Esq. W: Bassett Priddy, W. Esq. Spittleborough Puckeridge.H.Esq.Winterbourne Pullen, J. Esq. Lyneham-court Reeve, H. Esq. Monkton Reeve, H. Esq. Wroughton Reeve, W. Esq. Thickthorn Sheppard, J. H. Esq. Swindon Shingles, R. Esq. Lyneham Smart, Mrs. Bushton Smith, J. Esq. Bynoll Smith, J. Esq. Brinkworth Smith, Mrs. Thornhill Smith, R. Esq. Avebury Simmonds, Mr. Little Town Spearing, Mr. "W. Auctioneer, &c, Kennett Spencer, Mr. Barn-hill Stiles, "W. Esq. Ham Strange, R. Esq. Mannington Stratton, H. Esq.BerwickBassett Stratton, R. Esq. Brinkworth Tanner, Charles Esq. Yatesbury Templar, Mr. Brinard's-hill Thatcher, J. Esq. near Salisbury Theobald, Mr. Harris Croft Tuckey, J. Esq. Yatesbusy Tuckey, Mrs. Shaw, Swindon Tuckey, R. Esq. Lydiard Tuck, Mr. Greenhill Common Twine, Mr. Vastern Viveash, Mr. H. Monkton Walker, John, Esq. Chisledon Washbourn, J. Esq. Swindon Willis, J. Esq. Cain Court York, John, Esq. Goatacre Young, N. Esq. Brinkworth Young, W. Esq. Bushton PBEFACE. The anthor, in introducing this work to the public, begs to apologize for any seeming abruptness that may happen to appear, or any expression which may have escaped him in any way offensive to any individual or class of persons. He humbly submits it to the public, and solicits their perusal and attention to each and every part. He will feel obliged by the correction of any error which may have been inserted, either publicly or privately. Having had eighteen years' experience on almost every description of soil — all sorts of clays, sands, kidney and other flints, bog, peat, and chalk — he has thus ventured to give his opinion on nearly (if not quite) every subject connected with the farming interest, the means by which the greatest possible crops may be obtained^ how stock can be kept in the largest possible quantity, and also the means by which a multitude of diseases may be prevented; the most prolific sorts of cattle and pigs for producing the largest quantity of meat in the shortest possible time, and the most profitable sorts of sheep, meat and wool combined. (To feed an ill-bred animal is a great waste of time and food.) The most economical method to be adopted in the keeping and feeding farm horses, and the means by which they may be kept comparatively healthy and free from disease. He also ventures to point out the necessity devolving upon the farmer of being ever watchful over his flock, or the shepherd who has that responsibility. The master's eye grazes the ox ; the flock should be under his constant gaze ; one neglected day will perhaps take weeks or even months to repair; and may probably be visible for years after. The constitution of the sheep is so peculiarly formed that very little benefit can be derived from medicine of any sort. Farming is undoubtedly a profession if properly carried out. Buy nothing and sell everything as nearly as can be, excepting some sorts of seeds which may be exchanged with some distant neighbour. We often find a variety of soils on the same farm ; when such is the case the farmer can, by procuring a little fresh seed every year, keep up a continual supply for his own use. A farmer should also be an educated man, and fit for any society. Our ancestors said the farmer did not require education of any sort or kind. It was sufficient if he could read, write, and reckon. The very fact of its being unnecessary then is a convincing proof that it is necessary at the present time. The tables, so to speak, are completely turned; the farmer's property was formerly protected, now it is not. The markets are inundated with corn and cattle with almost every form of disease, and the public are determined to have a cheap loaf. With regard to the price of meat, that article cannot be cheap again, at least not for some time to come. There are therefore two grand points to which the farmer must turn his attention, firstly, autumn cultivation, that is to say, directly the Crop is harvested, or as soon as you begin, the steam- plough must be at work ; harrows to go before if any seeds of weeds may happen to be shed, and to be completed as soon as possible. The modern farmer must have a thorough knowledge of geology to enable him to know where to pitch his tent (if the subsoil is wrong the labour will be in vain), and what, when, and where to apply the different manures. He must also be acquainted with ohemistry, not only to enable him to know the properties of each kind of manure, but to know at what season of the year this or that manure should be applied to this or that soil, and for this or that crop. On some caloareous soils, if too muoh manure of any sort is applied immediately before the wheat crop, it is very likely to be affected with what is termed black blight, especially on shallow flinty or sandy soils on a chalk subsoil. Manure made from cattle fed on turnips or swedes must not be applied for the swede crop, but may be used with great advantage for white and green or red turnips. Liquid manure will scarcely pay for drawing out, unless brought into a state of fermentation by some chemical process, or absorbed in ashes, or vegetable earth. Again he must know when chalk, clay, sand, bog, and peat oan be applied advantageously to the soil, for some soils are divided in texture, and others are too tenacious, some too hot, others too cold. Some Subsoils are too porous and require to be consolidated, while others are so hard and crusty that they require to be brokenthrough now and then. He must also be acquainted with botany, to know the most suitable grasses, corn, and roots for this or that soil. Some grasses will not grow on all soils ; for example chalk will bring to life a variety of plant's that were never seen to grow before. On some soils red and white wheat sown mixed will produce a sack or six bushels to an acre more than one sort alone. He requires this science also to know when the different grasses are in the greatest perfection to be mown for hay. The second point to which the present farmer must turn his attention is the breeding and rearing superior Stock of all sorts, if possible, so as to sell to the foreigner, which will help to bring back the cash they have carried from our shores. To accomplish that object the farmer must be thoroughly acquainted with zoology to enable him to understand the nature and habits of the animal kingdom, and to assist him in crossing the different, breeds. Some farmers are only famous for one description of stock ; all should be attended to ; it does not cost so much to keep a well-bred animal as it does an ill-bred one. Every farmer generally endeavours to grow as good a crop of corn of each sort as he can ; why not of every description of stock ? There is a twofold advantage in keeping superior stock ; I may say fourfold. Firstly, it will make a higher price ; secondly, it can be sold younger, which will enable him to keep a larger stock ; thirdly, it will grow and thrive on less and coarser food; and fourthly, where you get one purchaser for an ill-bred animal you will get ten for one that is well- bred and of good symmetry. With regard to manures, especially artificial, it is a great pity so much money should be spent for that purpose. There are ample means in our own country if the proper course were adopted. The soil (when it may fairly be termed soil) is ever grateful, and if we were to restore to it in some form or other, what we take away its fertility would be maintained. Everything should be saved in the shape of manure on farms, in villages, small towns, and cities. Some people say it is impossible to accomplish that object in large towns j I beg to differ. I venture to assert that it can be done in every town, and also in our large metropolis, and that it may be so concentrated and condensed as to considerably facilitate its portability to any part of the country. The advantages would be twofold, firstly, an increased production of the soil, which must be had sooner or later to compensate for the low price of corn 5 secondly, the health of the population will be greatly improved, and many distempers and diseases will be prevented. We may also add another important advantage which must accrue from these results : if we save the lives of our people it must necessarily increase the consumption of every article of food. Every person acquainted with chemistry must admit the manifold advantages obtainable from such a process. The manure to be made portable, must be condensed, in doing which the effluvia would be hermetically sealed, and our atmosphere would not be impregnated with those noxious gases to the great discomfort of our nasal organ. ■ With regard to our labouring population I venture to say a few words, I would recommend that there should be no indoor paupers, or as few as possibles that the few, if only two or three disabled men or women, should be maintained by charitable contributions in the parish ; that there should be a school in every village with a garden of sufficient size attaohed and walled in, to ensure early vegetables, fruit, &c, and to make the sohool as near as can be self-supporting. The schoolmaster should be the gardener, to superintend. He will probably be sufficiently qualified to teach the boys to read, write, and reckon. Latin, the study of the celestial and terrestrial globes, and drawing, are all unnecessary accomplishments for the labouring man's son. They should be taught to till the soil, to do the work in the easiest, best, and most expeditious manner possible. So many hours to work, and so many to study in the morning, and the same in the afternoon, which will render their labours less tedious, and keep them in perfect health. The produce should be sold, and each boy ought to be paid, in money, every week so much, if ever so trifling, according to the work he has done. A savings bank should be established in the school, and the boys to know what amount of interest they receive at the end of the week, which will teach them to reckon and calculate what the sum will be with that, which they can be induced to save out of the money they receive at the end of each week. This plan will teach them a habit of saving, and when once implanted will not easily be eradicated. It will also furnish the boys with plenty of muscle, the full development of which is the perfection of animal beauty. They will grow up strong men, be proud of their Strength, and will not be so likely to frequent the ale-house, for there they will lose it. Those men that are addicted to drinking are generally of a weakly constitution, and always possessed of a weak intellect. They often feel tired, and almost invariably have a sort of inward craving for something or other, to enable them to do this or that sort of work. The drink spurs them on for a short time, with a sort of madness, and artificial strength, I will admit, but they forget that relaxation of the muscles of the body and limbs takes place at the same time. They go on until they require more and more every time to supply that artificial strength, and ultimately are reduced to mere bone and blubber, with scarcely a particle of muscle left. The principal farmers in the parish, or their sons, will of course superintend the garden department and week day education, and the clergyman of the parish, we presume, will attend to all necessary matters on the Sunday. Meteorology, the temperature of the atmosphere and soil, is also an important feature in agriculture at different seasons of the year, and especially at seed time for wheat ; also for the dairyman, in very hot climates, or counties, as good cheese cannot be made when the weather is very hot. It must then be made late in the evening, to enable it to cool before the sun has much power the following day, or it will turn Sour, and get out of shape, crack, and will not keep ; the fly comes and hence the origin of hoppers or maggots. With regard to young farmers, when they require recreation of any sort, I venture to recommend the study of the animal and vegetable kingdoms. To enjoy recreation aright, we must follow those pursuits which are sustained by the highest motives, and directed to the noblest ends ; and strange it would be if we could not amuse and improve ourselves by admiring the works of Him, whose operations, one and all, tend to the promotion of good and happiness to all mankind. SECRETS OF FARMING. Arable Land. — Mind wb at you are about. Never take any in the spring season, without some knowledge of it, or the neighbourhood at other seasons of the year. Some land, in the spring, if a growing season in April and May, will look worth two pounds per acre and upwards, when at the same time it would be dear at ten shillings per acre. One week's hot sun in June or July will burn every thing up ; hence the reason of farms in such a neighbourhood being almost invariably made Lady Day bargains, as a matter of course, when the country looks best. People do not often offer cattle for sale, of any description, when out of health, but choose that time when they look best. I suppose tlie best sort of land to rent would be where you can grow good wheat and beans, and fat sheep— a deep sandy loam on a chalk subsoil or a rich calcareous soil, tinged with sand and iron. , Some people think if land will grow good swedes and turnips, it will grow anything else, but that is a great mistake. The season in which roots make their growth is when the nights are long, and cool with the autumnal rains. You may grow good roots almost anywhere, if you think proper to go to the expense, by ridgingand so forth, even on the top of a house ; therefore do not be rempted when you see fine root crops. I have known on hot gravelly soils the finest of root crops ; but what is the consequence ? A lot of manure left, (when if you are not allowed to sow two white straw crops in succession, the spring corn will necessarily follow the root crop after being fed off) ; if hot weather it burns up the faster, and if a wet season it all falls down ; your young seeds are all destroyed, and then what becomes of your wheat crop ? A host of weeds or something will be sure to come, which will not be healthy for the wheat plant. There are some good flinty soils, black loam, and some are black " when wet, and almost white when the weather is very dry, all on chalk subsoils, and good land for corn of every description except- ing barley, which will not do well if the soil is wet and cold. Sheep are also less liable to be lame on chalk subsoils than any other. Have nothing to do with wet yellow. clay soils, unless you wish to set up brick-making. If you have not sufficient judgment of your own, employ a land surveyor of the first class, and have it well examined by digging several holes with the spade at least two feet deep. I know a great deal of good land to look at, but there is water within one foot of the surface. Ten or even twenty pounds would not be lost in having advice from those who thoroughly understood the nature of soils and subsoils. Locality, situation, and all must be considered ; not to have too much, or any land facing the north, or sloping down hill towards it. The cheapest land is generally let in the neighbourhood where there are no would-be gentlemen living near, and where bad roads exist ; and rent a farm if possible from a nobleman by birth, and then you need not fear. Aeches. — Have them where required, and if necessary to cross the public road, you will, of course, charge it to the parish. Bear one thing in mind ; put them in deep enough, and keep them well scoured out. Ash. — Never allow a tree or stick to grow upon or near any arable land ; it is poison to all corn erops and roots. Keep a fair stock of plank atid poles, as they are always useful for various purposes on the farm. Ashes. — Ashes of all sorts be careful to collect.; pare and burn the sides of all hedge-rows, as it is useless to clean your fields unless that is attended to, for the harrows will be sure to carry the seeds of weeds over the field* All seeds from the barn, and more par- ticularly the stables where the carter sifts the chaff, carry to a heap and burn in some convenient place away from the buildings. Rubbish of all kinds collect and carry to the fire. It is the cheapest manure you can get. Keep from the rain those that you do not require for immediate use, and those you do use, soak with liquid manure; have a shed near, soak so many for three or four days, turn them over and mix well together and place them in the shed, then get another lot and serve in the same manner, and so on until you have enough for all your root crops, and thatch those that are left. If you have more liquid manure than you require for ashes, it should be thrown over the manure in the yards; it will scarcely pay for drawing out on the soil in a cold state, for as it cools, the ammonia is lacked iip. The tobacco plant produces the strongest ash of all vegetable matters, and if sufficient could be procured and mixed with blood, it would be one of the greatest fertilizers in existence, especially for swedes. If too much is applied alone it will burn the plants. B. Bajbley.^— The soil for barley should be light and mellow, and it should follow the wheat crop ; and the land having had two green crops previously, there will be plenty of condition left in the soil fqr the barley crop. The wheat stubble having been ploughed up directly after harvest, it will be mellow and light in the spring. Drag, harrow, and work down, plough across about four inches deep, work down again, then plough about two inches, and sow every day after the plough from three bushels to a sack of good plump seed per acre, the latter end of March, or beginning of April. If a continuous drought is likely to set in, work down your fallows, and get it in at once. In harvesting the crop, take care not to cut it before it is perfectly ripe, allow it to remain then three or four days to take the dews, which will improve the .colour. It must be turned once, whether it has had any rain upon it or not, and must not be allowed to heat in the mow or rick. If the land is ploughed two or three tjmes and gets hplipw, the cattle should walk in the furrow the last time. Babns. — Be careful to always have two at least, and as many more as you can, or open rick sheds all round and slate roof, which I think is best, as you may set your machine where you like; but there ought to be two barns — one for the wheat and wheat alone, and the other for spring corn, and cutting chaff. K you have a new one built, be sure to "make it high enough at the sides, as the roof will hold but little ; asphalte is best for the floor, or oak plank, not bricks, as they will rot your sacks. Basil is a noxious weed that grows on sour sandy soils, with a large yellow blossom, and is easily destroyed by an application of chalk. b2 Beans are a profitable crop, especially on stiff, heavy land, as the stalks being allowed to rot on the soil, leaves it as it were similar to a honeycomb. Some farmers allow the poor to pull them, but I should rather give them wood or coals instead. Cut them close to the ground and allow the roots to remain. The straw is also a good and wholesome food for ewes, when in lamb, to look over, and some of that which they do not eat, should be carted away, stacked and thatched in convenient places for bottoms of ricks. If any other straw is used for that purpose the first laying or two will be musty. Some folks argue that you cannot grow beans on all soils. There are some, of course, where it cannot be done, but very few. If there is a cottage built on ever so poor a soil, and if it is occupied by an industrious man, in a few years you will most likely see a beautiful crop of garden beans, thus showing they require deep cultivation, but not just before planting time. The soil must be well manured directly after harvest, and ploughed up at a good depth, water furrows dug out and corners forked up— so far, so good. When February arrives, if the soil is dry, lose not a day ; drag and harrow down the land, and plough no deeper than the beans are put, and make the horses or oxen walk in the furrow, so as to get a firm seed bed on which the seed should lie, for all seeds require a firm and solid seed bed. We do not ourselves tumble the bed-clothes all about, roll ourselves up in them and then get into bed ; we generally' get firmly on the bed first, and then cover ourselves comfortably over, and all seed must be served in like manner. How often do we see ' some portion of the field here and there, dwindling away, and why is it ? Because the land is ploughed up perhaps about a month before planting time (or it may be two months) and very deep ; beans are put in, harrowed off, and all looks well to the eye, but all underneath is hollow, and your beans get hung. They will grow for some time, and then pine away, and nearly all plants do the same, unless they have a firm bed to rest upon. The most prolific and best sort of bean to plant, is a small and rather roundly shaped grain, called the Heligoland ; it is also the most nutritious for feeding purposes, and weighs sometimes seventy pounds per bushel, when old and dry. Dibbling , is undoubtedly the best method, fourteen inches from row to row, and ten inches apart, in the rows, and from two-and-a-half to three bushels of seed per acre, which must be thoroughly dry. To sow damp seed of any sort, is a " penny wise and pound foolish " speculation. If your work is behind and you think proper to drill, use the same quantity of seed, and have rows twenty inches apart, but mind they go in as deep as the plough has been ; which should have been from two to three inches deep and no more. As soon as they are fairly up, and the weather is dry, begin hoeing, and keep them clean. No crop will pay better for cleaning than the bean. They should not be cut before they are turned black, or nearly ripe, and ought to be reaped (not fagged, or they will fly out) mornings and evenings; carry when thoroughly dry in long, narrow ricks, and thatch directly, for a heavy shower will go all through your rick. If you cannot get good dibblers, and the weather is stormy at seed time, I would recommend ploughing them in. Plough a furrow about three inches in depth or rather less, bunch in the beans, and plough anpther furrow without. "Winter beans may be grown with advantage on hot, dry soijs. The land must be manured in the Autumn before the beans are planted ; it will then be in a fit state for rape to be sown in the beans in June following. Beer. — If you give your men beer, especially in the harvest, begin in the morning with good wholesome table beer, and improve it as the day goes on, or give every man his portion of good fair beer in the morning, say one gallon, but I would rather give them money instead, as by that means you teach them a habit of saving and thereby secure less drunkenness. Bees. — All farmers should keep bees, as they cost nothing after you once get a stock. Protect them from the mice, and sow plenty of sunflowers. Besoms. — The long birch besoms are the cheapest and best for barn purposes, and when half worn out they go to the stable ; but carters are very apt to keep four or five by them, and then supply themselves without any being missed. Bullocks. — If you intend to fatten bullocks in the winter time, first of all bear four things in mind (that is if you do not breed yonr own, when of course I presume you will breed a good sort) : what you buy and how you buy, what you feed with and how you feed. After having chosen the right sort (which next to thorough- bred shorthorn would be the first cross between Hereford and shorthorn), see that you have a comfortable warm shed, and keep it of equal temperature as near as possible ; they cannot be kept much too warm in reason. It should be pretty well air-tight all round, but well ventilated over head ; also have a shed at one end for a good store of roots, say a month's consumption. Have also a large square box, similar to the bed of a common dung cart, only- larger, in which to mix up the morning's feed as soon as they are fed at night, and on Saturday night to last until Monday morning. Then, with Bentall's root-grater (not pulpers, as some people call them) grate your roots and mix with chaff and rough coarse meal of some cheap sort, taking care to continue improving the meal every week until you give them the best that can be got, which will be two sacks of best barley, one of old white peas, and two bushels of best old beans, ground together! You may also add some linseed, but use it carefully, or you will make your cattle too loose. Let everything be thoroughly mixed. Feed your cattle as quickly as possible, taking care not to over feed them ; shut up and get away as soon after six o'clock in the morning as possible, then at twelve o'clock begin with a small quantity of best oil-cake, and in- crease the dose until you sell them., which I should always do at home, for they always look much better at home than any where else. How is it possible the poor cattle can look so well as at home, when they are driven and frightened almost to death ? See what an object of pity a man looks, or in fact anything, when in fear. Force your cattle on as fast as possible until about two thirds fat, I mean not over do them, nor keep them too long on hand. From three to five months is quite long enough for stall beast, according to the condition they are in wheu put up. The grand secret in fattening all sorts of cattle is to do it as quickly as possible. When ready get some respectable man to come, butcher or sales-- man; mind and ask enough, and not allow him to see them but once ; sell if you can the first time he sees them. If you are short of hay, you can use wheat chaff alone or mix a little hay. I should begin with green round turnips for the first five or six weeks, and then swede turnips until February, and then mangold wurtzel; always mix your two sorts of roots about three days before you change from one sort to the other. A sudden change from one sort of food to another is the worst thing you can do ; you alter the constitution of the animal, and you may lose a week's keep, or more than that. As a general rule I should give no water ; if you do, keep it always with them ; feed at six o'clock in the morning, twelve o'clock, and six o'clock in the evening, to a minute, for they can tell the time as well as the man who looks after them. Directly they are fed at night litter them up, and don't be long about it. Every beast should have a separate box, ten feet square ; the building ought to be one hundred and ten feet long, and about thirty feet in width, for twenty beast ; your boxes or pits ten feet square, with brick-work between each, and four feet in height. At three feet from the floor there should be a set-off in the brick- work of three inches at either side, on which to lay pieces of timber or sleepers across, and brought to a sharp angle on the upper side, when the cattle are fattened and sold. The manure then being cleaned out, you place your sleepers or pieces of timber across, get sparred doors or frames of convenient size and lay across the other way. Tou will then have accommoda- tion for fattening ten sheep in each box when not occupied by bullocks. Two or three lots of sheep may be advantageously fattened in this manner in one year. They will fatten much faster both winter and summer, and require less food, which is the grand secret of all grazing. No straw or litter of any sort should be put on the sparred boards or doors, the manure will then be in a short and fit state for mixing with your ashes in the manure shed. Tou will require two troughs in each box for the sheep, five to feed on either side. For cattle mangers should be about two feet three inches, and walk down the middle to feed right and left, and a door at the back of each stall four feet in width through which you put your straw. Be careful to have a good-tempered man to attend them, for no cattle will thrive in the neighbourhood of an ill-tempered brute. He will neither do well himself nor allow anything else that he has to look after. I certainly recommend farmers to breed or rear all their own stock, as nearly as they can. If you cannot breed them, you can buy calves about a fortnight old, and rear them yourself; and if you have not room for that, then buy yearlings or two-years'-old. If you are obliged to buy, mind what you do buy, for a bullock or heifer if well bred will fatten in half the time that a mongrel-bred one will require ; and mind also how you buy. Some men will buy thirty shillings per head cheaper than others, and make that sum more when they sell, making three pounds, which is half a fair average profit on each bullock. Btttteb. — When you cannot keep cows enough to make cheese, you can always manage one or two for making butter. If you 8 have not pasture enough, get a boy at about three shillings per week, who will mind two cows, if they are quiet and the right sort. If they are so wild that a boy cannot manage them, they are not of much use for making butter. Half Alderney, or Guernsey, crossed with the shorthorn, are the best for making butter. Never mind the expense of a boy to mind them ; the additional quantity they will make from grazing round the hedges, and sides of roads and ditches, will amply repay. When the boy finds a good place for his cow to graze, he should have a long rope at first, and tie her up now and then, and with his hook cut some food and tie in bundles ; he will bring the cow in at five o'clock to be milked, tie her up in her shed or cow-house, and then fetch in what he has cut in the day time to last her through the night, with one gallon of brewers' grains night and morning, at milking time ; in the winter give carrots cut small and mix with chaff morning and night, and a little hay at noon. Take care of the skimmed jmilk for young pigs. Buildings. — Barns, as I said before, should be made large enough, if you are about to have any put np, and choose the north side of your yard for the barn and stables, sheds for store cattle down the east side, the first half of the south side for an ox-house, walled up on the yard side, and open to the south; the house to be an open shed twenty-two feet in width, manger, or crib in the inside, of proper width, leaving room between it and the wall for the man to walk up and down in front of their heads to feed them ; having two or three trusses of hay stacked under the wall opposite each ox, or one week's consumption, and so on from one end to the other ; and room for the man to walk between the manger, or crib, and the hay ; he hangs his lantern up about half way down in the morning when he first comes, and each ox soon has some- thing to eat from his weekly allowance ; a much better method than running up and down between every one. The remaining part of the south side will afford room to erect your pig sheds for breeding, and must also be open to the south, with a good large yard in front, running parallel with the ox yard (which should also be large and roomy), as young pigs like plenty of exercise. In front of the yard there should be a plot of grass, one acre at least, for it is useless to attempt breeding unless these rules are attended to, and if you intend to fatten hogs on a large scale, they must be at least three or four hundred yards away, or [you will get the fever in your young pigs. On the west side should be the cart-shed open to the west, twenty-five feet in width, for waggons, carts, rollers, and lock-up place at one end for drills, &c, &c, taking care there is width enough between the pillars, and to spare, for the drills, and width enough for the rollers in one of the bays ; waggons, carts, rollers, drills, ploughs, harrows, drags, and all in the cart-shed ; you want the two middle bays empty, for what ? Why in the centre of these two bays (in which you have a store of roots and prepare the food for your fat bullocks) you open the door, and walk down between your beast, in the fattening stall, which must run from west to east across the centre of your farm yard on to the store cattle sheds, dividing your large square yard into two comfortable yards for store cattle with shed to each ; dimensions of fattening stalls (see " Fattening Bullocks"), mind and have two or three small doors at the end of your cart-shed, just above the beams, to take all your ladders when done with, or in getting them down through the bays you will be apt to break your elates, or tiles. The farm buildings should be as com- plete as any other piece of machinery, for if one thing is wanting, it will prove injurious to the whole machine, and with the high price of land, if the necessary conveniences are found wanting on the farm, that will also sustain a serious injury — fifty pounds are soon lost. Buying. — The less a farmer has to buy the better. Farming is to all intents and purposes undoubtedly a profession ; therefore if properly carried out you will not want to purchase anything of consequence, excepting a few small seeds ; for your larger sorts, such as wheat, barley, oats, beans, and so on, you can make an exchange with some neighbour, or you may happen to have two sorts of land on your farm, which may be a good change. As a general rule a farmer ought to sell everything and buy nothing. If you do wish to purchase anything, if you want it ever so badly, never show it, or the seller will take advantage. If you consider a man asks you too much, tell him to ask less or you cannot make him an offer. A great many dealers will ask you pounds per head more on horses and cattle than they intend to take, and shillings per head more on sheep, pigs, quarters of corn, and such like ; fifty or sixty pounds or even more are soon lost in dealing, especially in a large business, 10 C. Cabbage. — Every farmer should grow a few acres, more or less, and raise his own plants. There is generally some odd corner, if he has not room in his garden, or under a tree, if he happens to be so unfortunate as to have any on his arable land. The soil must be well manured, and ploughed to a good depth. If convenient it ought to be ploughed four or five times during the summer. You may plant out in October (if the large sort), or wait until March ; perhaps that will be the best time, as tbey will not be then so likely to run to seed. They should be planted at the distance of three feet from row to row. You can then use the plough, and save a great deal of labour. The distance from plant to plant will depend on the sort. If you have any vacant places in your swede field, put in some cabbage plants. Some farmers are very fond of transplanting swedes, but it is a very foolish practice, as they seldom come to any bulb, in fact there are very few bulbous roots that will pay for transplanting. Cabbage is the best thing you can give to ewes and young lambs after lambing, as it purifies the blood and cleanses the system. Those cabbages of the large drum- head sort that are not fed off in time for wheat may be carted to the lambing pen, and slightly covered with straw. They should then be thatched to keep out the wet. The frost will not damage them if kept dry. After the early garden sort is fed off the land may be sown with rape and turnips, to be again fed off in time for wheat. If used for fattening sheep or lambs they should be cut in thin slices, and also for fattening cattle, and give it to them with their oil-cake at noon. When you give them to store cattle they may be thrown about the yard, but if you give any to milch cows be careful to remove all outside decayed leaves, or they will impart an unpleasant flavour to the milk and butter. If the land is intended for wheat on which your cabbage is grown, you ought to grow the earliest and largest garden sort ("Wheeler's Imperial). You will then have food for your sheep and cattle at least a month or six weeks before your early turnips or rape is ready ; the land to be sown with rape or turnips and fed off in good time for wheat. The large drumhead may follow, but they impoverish the soil much more than the small garden sorts. To cultivate the early garden cabbage for sheep, &c, the land should be ploughed deep in the autumn; pulverize and allow the seeds of weeds to vegetate, then plough in a good coat of manure some time before 11 frost sets in. It should then remain in that state until spring. As soon as the land is dry enough, after the middle of February, work down the soil and put in your plants one foot apart.- Cages fob Sheep. — Always keep a stock beforehand. They should be kept for a year before they are used, if made from green wood. "When done with, in the spring, have them mended and put away in the dry, not put them away as some people are apt & do, two months or more after they ought to have been, and all broken, for they then hitch about in each other and everything in putting away, and taking down again, and consequently cost much more to repair. Always bear in mind the old adage that " a stitch in time saves nine." Cake. — Every one should thoroughly understand what oil-cake is made of, or he will pay two pounds for one. Some sorts are not half as good as others. Tou will find a great deal of sand in some, and all sorts of seeds ; the best is always cheapest, and will keep good for a year or more ; therefore buy in your twelvemonths' consumption about July, when there is no one else in the market, and keep it in a dry place. If any gets mouldy, you will find you have been buying water instead of pure cake. You will then have sufficient attraction to commence your action. Calves. — Every farmer should wean, or rear his own calves, if he can possibly do so. They will not require milk after the first month in an ordinary way, but to get cattle to perfection, the most economical way will be to put two calves to one cow until the calves are got strong enough to shift for themselves. Or you may wean them away from the milk by degrees ; dilute it with water and so on until they have water alone, and with plenty of good oil-cake, mangold, or swedes, or both, old beans split, and pollard, or malt -dust. La choosing calves to wean, mind the eyes are prominent, and with good width between, muzzle perfectly clear and white. The best colour for oxen is the purple, red, or straw- berry roan, but not a dark blue roan. If you buy Hereford calves, mind their heads stand out in bold relief from the red body, and perfectly white, not with spectacled eyes, for that often denotes a degeneration in the breed. There should also be a streak of white on the top of the neck, terminating behind the shoulders; but mind the two grand secrets — a full eye, and clear white muzzle, which alone denotes a good breed (for further description see "stock"). The first winter they must be done well in a well 12 sheltered pasture, with a shed to run into in rough weather and nights. Bear in mind one thing, if cattle are well wintered, they are half summered, and well summered half wintered, therefore clearly showing that whatever stock you keep, it is good policy to keep it well. The second winter they may be kept on straw of almost any sort if sweet and good, and that should be put in the barn adjoining the store cattle yard, and one man, or two (according to the number of cattle kept), to thrash just as fast as the cattle require it, mornings and evenings, and no faster, and then with a few grated roots they will grow and do well. The roots should be given at noon with a little oil-cake and straw chaff. Cabbots are an expensive crop to grow on a large scale, but I should always manage to have a few, for cows in milk, and horses, and make them last until grass comes. If your soil is not a deep sandy loam, you had better ridge it, having been well manured and pulverized in the previous autumn. Get some good seed, and test it in your hot-bed (all farmers should have one to try their seeds before they are planted, if there is the least doubt). Then, if the seed is good, mix it with about twice the quantity of wood ashes and well rub the seed and all together so as to part the seeds, and make all damp with pond water and a little liquid manure, and keep it so until they begin to vegetate. In March, as soon as the weather will permit, drill in your seed and ashes together. Carrot seed is very awkward to drill, especially when it is at all damp ; therefore I would recommend drawing your drills without the seed. Have a tin funnel about one inch and a half in diameter, one yard in length, and a top wide enough to hold about two quarts; the man walks after the drill and drops the seed into the funnel, which falls into the drill ; rows sixteen inches apart, and about eight inches from plant to plant, and must be kept very clean. If any are likely to run to seed, top them off, or your field will look very unsightly. Cart horses should always have two or three each at night, and where only two or three cows are kept they should also have some, and the best way is to cut them with Gardner's patent cutter. Cabteb. — A good carter is the principal and main-spring of the farming labour machine. Get a thoroughly strong, honest, quick, and good-tempered man, cost what he will. One hundred or two hundred pounds in a year is soon lost, if you have a slow, sleepy, ill-tempered man on a large farm ; and he ought not to allow any 13 of the under-carters to make too free with hirn, in fact their conversation should be no other than that which concerns the business of the day, during the hours of work. I should never allow a carter to keep a pig ; I would rather give him a good fat one once a year. If ever so honest, it is a great temptation. Any carter may take enough to keep one pig without being detected ; a little at a time in his pocket is easily managed, either from the corn bin, drill, or seedlip. Cabts should not be too heavy, but made moderately light and of good timber. Some people advocate all carts on a farm and no waggons. I beg to differ with them altogether ; they are very- well on a small level farm, where everything is conducted in a small way, and the crops small, and men's ideas small ; but on a large farm, where the crops are as they ought to be, you cannot make your carts take the place of waggons. Mind and grease them when they require it, and after being made dirty in the winter, the first wet day the carters are driven in from plough, all hands to work and wash them clean. Cart Shed, open to the west, for reasons which I have before stated. (See Buildings, &c.) Casks, or water pipes, or butts, be careful to keep out of the sun, unless there is water in them ; and have them painted when necessary. Cattle. — Take care of your young store cattle the first winter ; as yearlings they should be kept well and warm, have a comfortable shed to run into when they like in a dry sheltered meadow, which is the best place ; they will grow much faster and do better than in a close yard. If you have no pond, make one ; it is soon done, and the higher it is the more likely that it will hold water. All sorts of cattle should have water to go to when they like, if they have any at all. In the following spring change them to another pasture, and do them as well as you can. Be careful where you feed, and guard against red water and quarter evil, for the prevention of which see " Diseases of Cattle." If in the autumn they are very fresh, and beef likely to sell well, they can be put in the fattening stalls at once, and brought out fat at two years and a half old ; or otherwise adopt the following plan : — The last week in November bring them into the yard, and keep them on straw; the better the straw is of course the better your cattle u will do, but with one pound of cake per head and half a bushel of roots cut small the same as for sheep, they will do well enough on wheat straw, if harvested without much wet. T should not put more than ten in one yard. Your shed must be sixteen feet in width, and there ought to be one or two loose boxes at each end of every shed, so that if anything should happen to one you can soon shut him up ; but mind what you are about when you let him out with the others again, for they will most assuredly pitch into him. Take care that you have a large roomy crib. You fodder them with straw the first thing in the morning (after having thrown out all the manure with as little straw as you can help, and having emptied the crib of the refuse straw with which they are littered up) ; at noon give them roots and cake, mixed together if you like, to save time ; at four o'clock (divide the time as near as yon can) the man throws out the manure again, cleans out the crib, and then straw for the night, keeping water by them. The yard should be kept highest in the middle ; it will then be dry, and the cattle will lie down in the day when the sun shines, and grow much faster so than they will when huddled up together in the shed. I have seen some yards in such a filthy state that the poor cattle have been obliged to stand up all round the outside of the yard, one after the other like so many ducks going to the pond. All cattle should have iron knobs screwed on their horns -when they begin to get pointed and sharp. If you have no manger or trough in your store cattle sheds, get three or four moveable troughs to stand on strong legs in the middle of the yard (but they should be moved twice a week) to give them their cake and roots in ; the rain will not hurt, as they will eat it all up in a few minutes, and if there should be any water in the troughs turn it out when you feed. "When spring comes, turn them out to grass, when there is a good bite ; see that they have plenty of good water to go to when they like, and take care the fence is secure, for once out you will never keep them in afterwards. You will be then obliged to have a boy to mind them (and most likely a man to look after the boy), and shut them in the yard at nights ; then of course they will not do so well. About the last week in October put them in your fattening stalls ; take care when you begin, and be steady, or you will not get them in very soon ; the boxes being (as they ought to be) much lower than the yard, put some straw hollow and nearly on a level with the door sill, and when one bullock gets near, with three or four men push 15 him in. When you have one in there will be no trouble after- wards, as the next door being open they can see each other all the way round. Your yearlings will then come into the store yard when the grass is gone and the weather gets cold, to be fed as before stated on straw, offal, &c. ; or the offal and some straw may be cut into chaff, and the roots grated and mixed together. The expense will be rather more, but they will do better and a larger quantity may be kept. Chablock, to eradicate. — Some people assert it is impossible to do it, but that I deny. "We are all aware that it is indigenous to some soils, and entirely to free the soil of this troublesome weed perhaps, in a measure we cannot ; but we can prevent it infesting our corn crops, by frequent ploughings, and more shallow at every time, but the great secret is to well pulverize every clod between each ploughing, or your labour will be all in vain, for .perhaps in one clod, about the size of a hen's egg, there may be some five or six charlock seeds. The soil is ploughed and tumbled about, clods not broken, seeds preserved, wheat sown, frost comes and does the pulverizing work (which tbe farmer ought to have done the previous summer) and up comes the weed, a million strong, and chokes the crop in the following spring. Some people are fond of ploughing deep for seed, but if you do plough deeper than you did before, of course you will stir up fresh seeds and your labour will be all lost. Cider. — Always make cider if you can, and save the malt bill, until we get the duty off. Every farm should have an orchard, for, of course, there is or ought to be a small paddock of an acre or two near the homestead for pigs, &c, to run in. Tou cannot breed them to any advantage unless you have a place of that sort, and that is the orchard. If there are no trees, plant some. If the soil is wet and cold it should be drained; then mark out the places for the trees, pare off the turf, place your trees and lay the Bods upside down on the roots, and cart road scrapings round the trees. If the soil should be a stiff hungry clay, holes ought to be dug of a proper size and three feet in depth ; fill up with broken bricks, stones, and sand or old mortar, but not chalk, and have a small drain from the bottom of the holes also filled with stones, and empty into your other drains, and do not on any account plant your trees directly over your principal drains. An orchard should be well manured with good pig manure everyyear ; you will then 16 have plenty of grass, and also the best place for your young calve3, which every one ought to wean or rear himself. I consider it healthy for pigs and calves to run together ; no horses should be allowed to run in an orchard. Clover, of which plant there are four sorts, and all indigenous to this country : — 1 , common red clover, Trifolium pratense ; 2, cow grass, Trifolium medium ; 3, white or Dutch clover, Trifolium repens; 4, yellow clover, or hop trefoil, Trifolium procumbens. No. 1. Clover will grow on almost any soil, but like a great many other crops will grow the largest bulk on the best soil, especially on that which is most adapted for the wheat plant. It must not be sown oftener than once in eight years unless you feed highly with oil-cake, and then you can grow it in six years after, or even five where the soil is good. It ought not to be sown too early in the spring, for fear of frost, and the soil must be firm underneath, and mellow on the top, for about half an inch. The best plan is to tread it in with the sheep, and the only substitute is Large's clover ley consolidator, made by Messrs. Barrett and Exall, Beading, Berks. About sixteen pounds of seed should be sown per acre, if sown alone, or mix twelve pounds of broad clover, six of trefoil, and eight pounds of good rye grass for a similar quantity of land. If you wish to make good hay, it ought to be cut just as it begins to come into bloom, keep it turned as fast as ready, and put it in cock before it is hay, and then turn the cocks, or you will waste a great deal of the leaf. You cannot fatten cattle of any sort unless the grass or clover is cut young ; after the proper time it depreciates in value every day, at least three shillings per ton. It is, undoubtedly, a good plan to well manure the young clover with good rotten farm yard dung, in the winter, not later than January, but gypsum or lime must be added if the land requires it. The water furrows must be dug out on wet land, the same as for wheat, in the autumn, and spread over the land. Some folks are very fond of being considered sharp and business-like, in making the most of every day, if ever so wet (and so we ought), but not send the teams rolling down clover, or any. other crop of grass ; it must be done when it is moderately dry. How is any plant to flourish when the soil is smeared down in the wet, like so much mortar, and the hot sun bakes the land up like a brick ? The poor plant may as well be in a blacksmith's vice. The proper way to obtain good'seed is to feed the clover until the latter end 17 of May, and then to be laid off and fit for harvesting in September. Under this treatment it would be maiden seed. The common red clover is a most valuable plant for soiling all sorts of cattle, sheep, and pigs ; for horses it should be cut two days -before, but not for pigs ; they should have it fresh three or four times a day, and in small quantities. No. 2. Oow grass. — I should always sow a few acres near home, if possible, for the horses ; when I say near home, I wish it to be understood, I mean that side of your clover field nearest to where your horses are for the night. No. 3. White or Dutch clover, is one of the best sorts of green food for young lambs ; sanfoin in the morning, Dutch clover at noon, cabbage, vetches, or rape at night, until turnips are fit. No. 4. Hop or trefoil, I cannot much recommend on a large scale, excepting for hay mixed with either of the former. It is a bad preparation for wheat, as it leaves the soil too hollow. It stands very near in relation to tares, but it will not grow on some soils. The same treatment as for the former sort I consider equally applicable to all. Coals, for steam work, &c. — Get in your year's consumption in July, when they are cheaper than at any other time ; and arrange some convenient place or tunnel where you can draw your carts and tip, and your horses are soon in the stable, and carts in their right place. Cottages. — All farmers should have enough cottages for their labourers to live in, and the farmer himself should rent them of his landlord and deduct the rent when the labourer is paid, once a week, or fortnight, as the case may be. You will then be able to keep your men in proper subjection. Suppose your landlord holds all the farm cottages in his own hands, what are you to do if a servant offends you, and so much so that you are obliged to discharge him ? Why you must do so of course. And what does he care for that ? If your landlord lives in the neighbourhood, that will be the first place he will go to for employment ; and when he gets in the first thought is what he can rake up against you. "Eevenge is sweet," and few people hesitate to obtain it whenever there is an opportunity. Couch Grass or Twitch Grass (Triticum repens). — If you happen to have a piece of land very full of twitch grass, so much so that 18 you can scarcely plough it, the most effectual way will be to pare and burn. If you can manage to plough, the best plan is to rafter rather thin, let it lie a short time and then turn over the rafter and that which is under at the same time ; then drag, harrow, and roll, and clean and burn what you can ; then plough clean, but not too deep. Clean that lot, and then plough again, and so continue until you get to the bottom of your twitch. It is a mistaken idea to plough a piece of land too deep that is full of couch grass ; if you do your drags and harrows cannot get to the bottom of it, and what is the consequence ? Tou must plough again and again five or six times before you can work your implements ; the couch is cut into thousands of short bits, and you may as well have to pick up the sands on the sea shore one at a time. Be careful never to allow by any chance any particle to run to seed, for if you do it will be a seven years' work to get 'rid of it. If you can wash and clean some fine couch grass, dry it and cut it into chaff ; it is one of the best things you can give a borse to get him into condition. D. Dairy, should be light and airy. The situation should be a northern aspect, if possible, arid shaded with trees. The horse chestnut will grow the fastest, but when there are none, the better plan will be to build the dairy and cheese rooms underneath the nearest trees to the farm-house. The subsoil must also be made dry if not naturally so, to the depth of six feet, and tbe same distance, viz., six feet round the outside of the building, and thoroughly drained. There should be windows to open and shut to admit air when required, for it is imperative that the temperature should be equal or nearly so throughout the cheese-making season. The same attention is also necessary for the cheese-rooms ; the roof should be stone or brick tile, not blue slate, for that may cause the cheese to get out of shape from the sudden change of the heat of the day to the cold in the night ; it may also get full of holes or eyes. Yells, as they are called, should not be used when they are new ; it is the same as giving new and damp corn to horses ; it fills them full of wind and is not wholesome. No steam of any sort should be allowed to come in contact with the cheese after it comes from the press. There should be a sufficient quantity of machinery to press the cheese gradually ; it ought not to be hurried, but in the same manner as all breeding cattle and sheep 19 are exercised, viz.: — that a proper time be allowed, for that ptirpose and not violent, for they will lose too much fat, and so will your cheese. There should be stone dressers, nor wood of any sort, excepting the vessels you use, which must be all kept thoroughly clean and sweet. No pipes or drains should be allowed to carry slops and such like from the dairy to the hog vault, as is too often the case, to save labour, unless plugged up at the dairy end, when not in use. Some people entertain a great aversion to a dairy, but I am of opinion ■ there is no house complete without one, from the palace down to the peasant's cottage, if that cottage has land enough to keep one ; and there are a great many that have. Every farmer can keep one, two, or more cows, and he ought to keep as many as he can, provided he has pasture suitable for that purpose, viz.: — cheese making, butter making, or selling milk, &c, &c. The latter, undoubtedly, pays best, especially when near a station. Some soils are too rich for making cheese ; it will then be more advantageous to graze. In selecting cows on a large dairy farm great judgment is required, as some are more adapted for making beef than milk, and vice versa ; for example, the dairy cow must be thin through the body in front, and thick through behind (and yet the thigh must be thin), for it is in those regions the milk is formed and secreted ; with regard to the grazer, the animal cannot be too thick and square in its fore quarters and also behind, with a thick and fleshy thigh. The cow, if properly managed, is the most profitable of all animals. They should be kept in one uniform and fair condition throughout the year. Pigs should not be allowed to run with dairy cows, but have separate paddocks allotted for that purpose (see " Pigs, &c") Some people argue that you cannot make good cheese on certain lands, such as peaty soils, and hot gravels where flies and gnats abound, but some of the poor pastures will make as good cheese as the rich. It is quite true that cows will not do well bought from a country where the atmosphere is always humid, and taken to a hot, arid, and sandy, or gravelly soil, They must be born, and bred, or reared in the same neighbourhood, so as to get acclimated to the soil, or country. Cows are very profitable in many ways. If you make good cheese, it will always sell at a good price ; there is butter coming in every week, then whey with peas or meal, making pork every two months. If you only make butter, there is the milk, and also the butter-milk, which is better still (being more digestible than the former) for making pork. With regard to cheese making, c2' 20 it used to be the fashion to make it twice a day ; that practice is now pretty generally extinct, and it is made only once a day, viz.: mornings. Of course, when only made once a day, every one would prefer the morning, as then he may consider the labour of the dairy is done. The great art in making good cheese, is to draw off the whey without extracting any of the fatty particles of the curd with it, which fat adheres to all the edges of the broken curd. A tub may be so arranged as to draw it out from the bottom, or a strong fine cloth, with or without a hoop to fit the inside of the tub, and on the top of the curd, and dip the whey from above the cloth, which will keep back the fat. Now then with regard to the neighbourhoods where they say cheese cannot be made. It invariably happens to be in a hot climate, or country; then it must be made in the evening or night, when it has time to drain itself, and get cool, before the heat of the next day. Where as many as forty cows are kept, you can keep ten ewes with them to* breed a lamb each without doing any or very little injury to the cows. If you get your ewes in early, get them fresh, of the down breed, and put them to a long-woolled sheep ; they will nearly all bring two lambs each. This first cross will fatten much faster, and come to a heavier weight than any other breed. "When you buy cows for the dairy, choose a cheerful countenance, a thin thigh, a full eye, udder not big and fleshy, but good fair size and soft, and no black muzzles. It is a good plan to turn your dairy cows into the pastures you intend to mow, for a short time, so as to eat up all the coarse spots, and under the fence, or it will get laid with the rain, get rotten and spoil your hay. When you turn into your cowleaze, be careful to take up all the manure when sufficiently dry, and wheel away to some convenient place, or you will lose the feed of one cow to every ten you keep. The cows should always be milked at the same time to a minute, and as quickly as can be done. Never keep a lazy milker, for if you happen to have a cow with very short teats, he will very soon spoil her, lose one quarter, or perhaps two. Tour bull should always be kept in and tied up, and not too fat. Every dairy-man should grow a few acres of mangold to commence feeding the cows as fast as they calve, and continue until turned out to grass. One acre will be sufficient for ten cows. The mangolds should be grated and mixed with straw or coarse hay, chaff, or coarse meal. The extra profit from this method will be at least thirty shillings per head. Dangerous places in feeding pastures should be attended to. See 21 •that there are no sharp angles, or picked corners, or they will drive each other into the ditch ; the same also at either side of a gate-way ; if the ditches are deep there ought to be posts and rails for a short distance, for if any strange cattle are passing one will run, and another, and so on, and if more come than can find room the weakest goes into the ditch ; T have known it happen to horses. With regard to selling off the calves, always breed the best sort you can, then if you can sell ■at a good price when about a week or ten days old at two pounds, sell, if not, then fat them all off, which will not take long to do, if you give your cows plenty of mangold (and every dairy-man ought to have some). Perhaps yon have no arable land to do so. Then go to your landlord and ask him to allow you to break up eight or ten acres, and sow half with mangold, and the other half wheat, or •oats, and never attempt to grow anything else ; or you may grow mangold on the same ground every' year. Damp Lodging, for sheep and all sorts of cattle, should be avoided, and more especially for sheep in lamb, for a great deal of the bad luck, as people term it, at lambing time, is attributable to "that and that alone. Some farmers say all and every part of their farm is wet, and that they cannot avoid their sheep lying on the damp ground. I beg to differ. Choose a conveniently elevated spot as near the centre of the farm as can be, make two folds, of the proper size, side by side, strong post and rails round. You can put any sort of shelter — long faggots tied at both ends and fastened to the rails, or stubble, or straw, and fill up your yards with stone, the same as you would make a road. It must also be drained if at all damp. After having made a good firm yard, and a little on the descent, put a slight covering of chalk, and allow them to stand on it a few hours once or twice a week. Always keep some chalk close by ; you will then keep the foot rot farther away. You, of course, have one yard littered up with straw of some sort, and when your ewes have been there for three or four weeks, litter up the other yard, and clean out the one you just left the first opportunity ; let it remain a day or two to get sweet, and then add a slight covering of chalk; the chalk should be broken small, and the sheep stand on the chalk every night while the shepherd is foddering. If you attend to these rules there will not be much danger of foot rot,. Damson Trees. — If you have not any, by all means plant some in the hedge-rows near home. They are suitable for any soil, and. produce a very wholesome fruit for many purposes* 22 Dinneb-hotto, for farmers, I consider, should be at night when the business of the day is done. Tour men all dine at that time, and why not you ? Some say they do not ; it is their supper ; . but what matters if it is called supper ? Call it what you like. I well know a man cannot bustle about and exert himself as he ought, and as he may be required to do, in the summer time, directly after a hearty hot meal. Some will say they do, but it , must injure their constitution and shorten their lives. Tou may • take your stick and creep and saunter about, but that is not the way to drive a business*. Ask one of your men if he can mow, reap, or thrash so well after a hot dinner. Besides, people are very ■ apt to call in when you dine at noon, thinking, of course, to find you at home, and so they do, and what is the consequence ? Something or other must be had to drink, and once begun this frequently lasts all the afternoon ; and your men soon find it cfut, for they have seen your guest arrive, but not depart yet. Depend upon it, it is healthier, cheaper, and better, in every respect, for every farmer to have his meals at the same time as his men. Ditches. — On wet land the ditches ought to be cleaned out every autumn, one side, at least, and the bottom. A. great deal of land will not require the expense of draining if this is attended to. Dogs. — Keep no more than will bark. Doobs. — Never allow your servants to turn the handle when shutting the door ; it will injure the bolt. Dbatning ought to be done where it is required. On loose soils , they require to be deep, at least four feet or perhaps five, and not so near together, but on stiff clays they ought not to be more than four yards apart, and three feet will be deep enough, or say three feet six inches. But it is very little use to drain heavy, stiff clays, ,-unless you tear up your land deep in the autumn directly the crop ; is off, and before the rains commence. Wet clay pasture soils may be greatly improved by digging gutters five or six yards apart, .eight inches wide, and one foot in depth ; they will occupy no more space there than they will in a water meadow. No pipes less than .two inches in diameter should be used in any draining. Some drainers will place two two-inch pipes side by side, a three-inch pipe will carry more ; square the circles of each and you will find that twice two are four and twice four are eight, but three threes are nine. 23 Drinking Places for cattle should be attended to in the fields, and also in the yards if they are at all dangerous. A certain part ought to be fenced off with strong posts and rails, in a sort of semi-circular shape (no sharp angles), and ample room to drink, and then there is a chance for the under one to get away. I have known many horses and cattle of all sorts, for want of this attention, driven in and drowned. Dung ob Manube Cabting should be done in the winter season, in the first place all stubbles to be ploughed up deep as soon as the crops are cleared off, then you sow rye, trifolium, tares, &c. Then get in all your winter oats and beans, and now put in all your wheat ; and then there is plenty of time to cart your manure and attend to your thrashing and drawing out corn. No farmer should be at dung cart in the summer season (excepting on pasture land as soon as the hay is cleared) ; there is then always plenty to do. What you cannot put on the land in the winter, draw to con- venient heaps, and drive upon them to prevent too rapid fer- mentation, and then turn the heaps over about a fortnight before you use it, before fermentation gets to its highest, then apply it to the soil. I consider it a very foolish practice to cart manure into heaps, which are thrown up, allowed to ferment, and then have a lot of men covering up, with an idea of keeping it in. You cannot do it unless you put it in bottles and cork it up, and then in all probability they would burst. < Dust. — Malt-dust is a very wholesome food for sheep, calves, and cattle of all sorts; it should be made damp, or a great deal will blow away in the field when you feed the sheep, and cattle are apt to blow it away themselves unless this precaution is attended to. If you intend making up cattle for sale they ought not to be fed with it too freely, as it will fetch off their old coat and make them look as though they have been stall fed, unless they are made up fat, and then it is of no consequence. E. Eaves op Ricks. — See that they stand out enough to keep the wet from running into the stem of your ricks, and that they are pegged down firmly enough to resist the rough winds. When thatch once begins to blow away, no one can tell how soon it will stop. If the master is always at home it does not so much signify, because he will see it and stop it in time, but your men do not take that same interest, and therefore do not see it until too late, and then, perhaps a week's work is the result. 24 Eggs. — If you intend having any you must pay some one on purpose to look after them, if you have not time yourself, for boys always did take them and always will. It is just as natural for boys to take eggs as it is for squirrels to take nuts. Elder. — If you have not any growing round your premises by all means plant some. It produces a very wholesome wine from the berry, which will be very useful in the winter when the sheep are lambing, for yourself and the shepherd. Take care of your shepherd, and he will take care of your flock. A little kind attention now and then will do more good than money, for give them what you will they think it is their due, and that they most assuredly earn every farthing. Elm Timber. — Always keep a stock for mending carts, waggons, &c. and keep it under lock and key, for a bit of board is very tempting to a labouring man. Evening is the best time of the day in the spring and summer to walk about the fields to meditate and plan things out. Some Bay "morning for everything;" I say evening, when everything i3 quiet, and you are alone. Fancy a man writing a work . on any subject in the middle of a large fair. In the morning you are busy, and all hurry and bustle ; if you are not you ought to be, for if you move about slowly your men will most assuredly do the same ; therefore evening is the proper time to make arrangements for the morrow. Perhaps you may have an intelligent neighbour joining you in your walk; if so, he may point out a better or more expeditious way of doing this or that. Some say "We won't trouble about it to-night, it may be wet to-morrow ;" then plan out something that can be done in the wet. Ewes should always be kept in good fair condition, and if you wish to have many twins you must keep your ewes well for a month before, and all the time the ram is with them. A ram which may be a twin will get more doublets than any other, but it is useless to have a lot of twins unless your land is good, or use a great deal of corn and cake, and then one-third of the expense must be charged for rent. When your ewes are half gone they must be kept very quiet, and not be frightened by any hounds, guns, or keeper's dogs. They should always be under the shepherd's watchful eye, to run in some dry pasture or meadow for a few hours every day, where there are no ditches of any sort. Keep them as well as you can 25 until about ten days before your time is up to commence lambing, then put them on worse keep or feed; if you have given them hay three times a day give straw and take off one of the lots of hay; if you have given them hay only twice a day give straw once and hay once; by adopting that plan you will change the state of the blood. Always allow your ewes free access to salt. If you do not mind the expense, a little oil cake once a day, beginning about a week before lambing, will act as a mild aperient and keep them healthy, and by attending to what I have before stated, viz.: — never by any chance allowing them to be alarmed or frightened in any way, you will not have much to fear. If your ewes are small and kind you must not do as a great many do, say "my flock is too kind; I shall buy some coarse big-headed rams ;" that must be done by degrees, .and with great caution, or you will lose a lot of ewes. F. Fallows. — The old saying is, " Fallow shallow and stir deep, Will fill the bushel cob heap, But now we would have more corn to reap, We must not stop to crawl and creep." The process of fallowing ought to commence with the Steam Plough the moment the crop is off in the autumn, it should be 'completed as soon as possible, and no sort or kind of work should be allowed to prevent this object being accomplished. Everything that is sent for our use ought (after having been used) to be cleaned and put away, and to allow stubbles to remain until winter before they are ploughed is just similar to letting a horse be left in mud and dirt, and cleaned just before you want to use him. ■ The horse, with such treatment, will be liable to all sorts of diseases, and the soil in like manner, if left undisturbed, will harvest the seeds of all sorts of weeds, and if allowed to remain until soaked with the winter rains before they are ploughed, will be rendered unhealthy the following spring. If there are any seeds of weeds in the stubbles, a pair of horses with sharp iron harrows should go- about a week before the plough, to pulverize the top of the soil, which will enable all seeds to vegetate. All water furrows should be dug out as fast as the land is ploughed, the fallows should then Temain until spring, excepting where you sow rye, trifolium, winter beans, oats, tares, &c, and stubble turnips (if your land is quick enough), then in the spring plough as deep as you did in the autumn. 26 (which ought to have been as deep in reason as you could, according to the nature of the soil) , but no deeper. If your fallows happen to be full of couch (but that will not be the case many years if you tear it up directly after harvest), the furrows ought to be turned back and dry the under side, for if you begin ploughing across before it is dry underneath it will be like so many bricks, and you will not be able to work your drags and harrows to any advantage. When thoroughly dry plough across as I have before stated, as deep as before, then well pulverize every clod, for there lies the enemy; clean and burn and let it rest for about ten days, to allow all the seeds of weeds to vegetate, then plough again across or asquint not so deep as last time, well drag, harrow, roll, and pulverize every clod, for there still lies the enemy, and let it remain again for another ten days. If you wish to clear the land of all indigenous annuals you must plough five or six times, but a little shallower every time, and thoroughly pulverize every clod between each ploughing. You need not always wait ten days, you must be guided by the weather, for if after a continuous drought a shower should come, all teams should be set to work as soon as dry enough, and go over all a little. If heavy land intended for wheat it should be finished off the last time (which should not have been ploughed more than about two inches in depth) at least one month before you sow your wheat, to settle down and get firm. If you intend sowing the corners of your field they ought to be forked up two or three times during the summer, for if they remain until seed time they will not pay for doing at all. We of course suppose they were dug up once in the autumn, and also the water furrows dug out. It matters not whether you call it a regular fallow or a bastard fallow, or which is done ; wherever you can grow sheep feed of course it ought to be done, and the manure applied for that crop (not just before the wheat, which is a very foolish practice), and the fallowing that cannot be done before the sheep feed is grown on the earliest feed, must be done after that crop is eaten off. If your land is too low in condition you ought to give your sheep cake or corn when feeding off your green crops, but then you must charge one-third to the rent. Farming is undoubtedly a profession when properly carried out, viz. : — buy nothing, sell everything as near as you can. Seeds of all kinds of course require a change, but that you can generally do from one part of the farm to another, or with some distant neighbour ; and rear or breed all your own stock, it is always- 27 healthier, and not so liable to disease. If you happen to be over stocked put out your two-year old cattle and colts, but not your yearlings, for they require to be done well. Fattening Cattle.— If your land is good enough, and premises suitable, everything should be sold off fat, so as to have the last pull, unless you have an extraordinary breed that will command an extra price, then it will be best to realize at once. With regard to fattening cattle, horses, or pigs, one thing must be borne in mind and attended to, viz. : — whatever you fatten it must be done as quickly as possible; never over feed, servants are apt to think, through ignorance, they cannot possibly have had enough unless when at feeding time again there is a great deal left. All sorts of cattle should be kept warm and in an equal temperature. When fit to go sell by hand if possible, and not by weight. If your land is poor and hungry it will not pay to fatten anything excepting pigs, unless the land is your own, or you have a life lease, or a landlord that can be depended on. Fences must be well attended to in the spring before the weeds and grass in the fence begin to grow, and then what fresh sticking you put in, the grass, &c, will grow up and make it look pretty much alike; or the cattle will soon find out the place, and seeing something afresh one will come, and another, and so on, until they all come; they then very soon agree to alter it. When the landlord will allow poles and oak piles, perhaps you cannot do better than clear away all the dead, and plant some more sets, but you must also clear away the soil as far as the dead fence extended, and put fresh maiden earth, or they will not thrive well. You then drive in your piles and nail up your rails. If people are apt to pass that way you must put pales as well, and point them at the top, and only two rails to nail them to, for if you put three they will then have a place to rest their foot and be able to get over. Keep the young sets clean or you will never have a good fence. With regard to gates, if your landlord puts them so much the better, only get them put high enough; if you are obliged to find them yourself, timber and all, buy ash poles as cheap as you can, split them down the middle (having first cut off the butts for ends), peg them together with oak pegs, hang them with a strong iron ring and staples, and chain to fasten with. On all gates adjoining and on the premises, have painted, in large letters, "Shut this Gate," for people passing to and fro in a hurry are generally 28 thinking of the object they have in view, and forget to shut the. gates after them, and when cattle once get unsettled it takes some time to pacify them. All live fences grow best on the breast of the bank, which should be on an angle of thirty-four degrees, for if more upright it will always be falling into the ditch, and if more sloping it will be easier for cattle to get through. Fences adjoining corn fields should be kept clipped, but not in meadows where cattle are kept, for our climate is so variable, and the wind so changeable, that they require to be sheltered. They should be cut and laid afresh once in eight years, and done at so much per pole ; men cannot shift at this work without being detected. Fences must not be kept growing for the sake of profit (a coppice is the place for that purpose), but should be kept strong and cattle proof, and within reasonable limits. Ferbets. — Every farmer should keep a couple of ferrets if he lives in a village, or his premises are at all likely to be infested with rats, for if the ferrets are used often it will soon drive them away. Fibe. — Be always careful of fire, both in-doors and out. Never allow any docks and such like to be thrown into the fire-box of the engine, which is very often done, and is a very dangerous practice. If your chimney should catch fire, shut all the doors and throw on plenty of fine salt, and above all mind and insure high enough in some respectable office, and never allow anything (excepting death) to prevent the accomplishment of that object at the proper time. Fikewood. — Always keep a fair stock, and keep your domesties in a good humour. Old posts, rails, hurdles, &c, keep together in some out-house, and when the carters are driven in from the field in wet weather, put them in the dry cutting up. Some farmers have always more old hurdles than necessary. "Shepherd !" "Yes, sir," "I wish you would just take a hurdle and stop that gap in yonder fence." The shepherd, or perhaps some one else, takes the hurdle, which at eight shillings per dozen will cost eight-pence, and a stake to carry the hurdle with (for ten to one if he carries it far without), and to fasten it up with when he gets there, which is another penny. A man, or carpenter at half-a-crown per day, will take two piles, two rails, and half a dozen pales, and stop it up in one hour, which will cost only three-pence, saving sixpence, and last for years. Never allow the shepherd to carry home old hurdle wood; it is a bad practice ; he will never take care of the hurdles, and will not care if 29 the carter drives over one now and then ; so much the better for him. No man or woman should be allowed to carry wood of any sort home with them at any time; I have seen women tearing fences to pieces when they ought to have been at work. Fish. — If you have good ponds throw in plenty of tench, and save the butcher's bill. Flax. — The soil must not be too rich nor too poor; in the former case it grows too coarse, and in the latter too weakly and affords only a small produce. From eight to ten pecks is the quantity to sow per acre. Fodder of all sorts must be taken care of, and ought to be consumed by cattle as fast as thrashed, excepting the chaff, which will keep for a long time on boarded floors. It is no use saving up all short straw and so forth unless you intend mixing grass or partly made hay with it, and then it ought to be put in a fold made with hurdles, so as to keep it together at the bottom, and make it in a rick and thatch it close by where you intend to mix when the time arrives ; the two ricks should touch each other, for it will be awkward to carry far. Foxes. — Every farmer should encourage the breeding of foxes if he has any convenient place, for if his landlord is not a fox-hunter he has perhaps many friends that are fond of the sport. Every one is talked over at the landlord's dinner-table, and also at those of his friends, and the one that preserves foxes is generally considered a much better sort of man, a better farmer, and under- stands parish business, and behaves better to the poor, more polite to everyone else, and in fact he is considered to be a much better sort of man altogether, than the one who takes a delight in destroying them. Moreover, it is to a farmer's advantage to encourage fox-hunting; see what they consume, hunters, horses, hounds, and men, all coming home hungry, and it is much better to have a good Dame than a bad one. Furrows. — Keep all water furrows on the descent and well scoured out, in the wheat field, fallows, and clover field, before winter. Furze, or Gorse, when close to the farm,, may be employed with great advantage, bruised between a simple machine of two large iron rollers, and mixed with caving, or short straw, cut into chaff. Cut off the small shoots, and the large stalks may be burnt. 3 declare we are out ; not a bit in the house." Grasses. — The best pastures will be found to contain upwards of twenty different sorts, which ripen from April until October at different periods (principal sorts, see " Pastures "), therefore it is useless to attempt laying down a new pasture with hay seeds alone. The proper mixture may be obtained from Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, Berks, who will also forward a pamphlet containing the nature of soils suitable for each plant, if required. Gbating Roots, versus Pulping. Some people consider there is no difference ; I am satisfied there is ; pulping is pulping all the world over, and a great mess it is when you have done it, besides a great waste. Now grating, as I term it, is rubbing the roots into small shreds, and, owing to its ragged edges, it very naturally imbibes all the juice of the roots and nothing is lost. It is also more easily mixed with chaff, meal, &c, as it will fall apart the same as any sort of corn, when you move it ; whereas when it is pulped it will take ten times the work to part, and mix, and it never can be so thoroughly done. Grating your roots therefore is, •undoubtedly the best and most economical way of feeding cattle^ 31 especially those you intend to fatten, and also your yearlings, but, if you consider it too much trouble, the two-years'-old will do very well with one bushel of cut roots per day, and straw fresh thrashed from the barn, morning and night. Gkavel. — In the winter, when wet, fetch gravel, rubble, and such like and put in convenient heaps, for mending holes, and low places in your yards as soon as the manure is drawn out, for as soon as that is done you want to be littering up again, and will be saying, " I wish I had some gravel to put in these holes." Grinding, of all sorts of corn, should be done at home, unless you live close to a mill, as all sorts of machinery are getting cheaper every year. Every farmer who is possessed of a farm to the extent of four or five hundred acres will find it answer his purpose to keep an engine for thrashing, ploughing up directly after harvest and such like, and to back down a slight incline into its own shed when wet, against two blocks, where it will be in its place without any shifting, to attach machinery of any sort you may have. Grindstone. — There always ought to be one on a farm, and one that will cut sharp; some are only fit to grind knives and such like, and not worth fixing. Tou will then keep your men from running to the blacksmith's, which generally involves the remainder of the day in the ale-house if there is one near, and if not, that blacksmith charges too much, or his grindstone is not a good one, and away they go until they find the combined accommodation. Gbit, for mortar and other purposes. Always bring some home with the team when you have nothing else to bring, for when the mason comes it will be, "If you please, sir, I want a man, a horse, and a cart, to go perhaps five or six miles, to fetch some road grit." It is also a good thing to wash into and round the roots of your fruit trees, in fact some trees will not grow without it ; they may just keep alive and that will be all. Grubbing Hedgerows ought to be done deep and well, at so much per pole, and the wood all split up in convenient pieces to burn at once, or you will have much labour in carting it away, and also much more in getting it to pieces. The ground should be level, the wood nicely stacked in so many cords, and not paid for until once ploughed, for more reasons than one. 32 H. Hares. — If your neighbour persists in keeping too many hares, to the annoyance of yourself, keep a large dog, get a small bull's eye lantern, with a small pad to fit well on the dog's back, and give them a chase now and then in the night. After a little while you can carry the lantern yourself, or send a man ; yon will not require a dog. You should always blow a loud whistle when the dog is performing, and the same when you go yourself. Harness. — Look well to your cart harness and see that it is mended and well oiled twice in the year, viz.: — in the spring, before the hot weather sets in; and in the autumn, before the wet and frost begin; and have it done at so much per horse, for the harness makers always weigh their leather before they leave borne and again when they return. Every man, woman, boy, and child of either sort, will be sure to want something or other on that day, and if any person is met on the road and is in want of anything he is sure to get it, and all at your expense. Harrows. — Use all iron harrows and drags excepting a few small seed ones, of which every farmer should have one or more sets, for there are a great many seeds sown and buried too deep. The carter should also see to the tines, that they are all in and in good condition. I have seen many teams at drag and harrow for weeks with as many as four or five tines wanting in each harrow or drag, and a lot of land not moved. "This wheat looks thin, I wonder what it is, I suppose something has eaten it." Very likely indeed, you have left the clods underneath as a safe harbour for insects of all kinds. Keep working every clod to the surface and continue to pulverize, and your work will be complete and soon destroy all the insects. Another great evil of allowing clods to be ploughed in and there to remain, is, your crop gets root-fallen and you get crest-fallen as well. Tou meet your neighbour and say, "Have you noticed your wheat lately?" "No, I have not." No, because perhaps he has not ploughed in a lot of unpulverized clods at seed time. Well, you go and examine your own ; he says, "There is nothing the matter here;" walk a little further in, over the headland, of course there is not much the matter there, every clod has been trodden down by the feet of your cattle in turning. "Well, you walk further in, and you find just before harvest a lot of white ears ; " Oh, white blight." No such thing, it may probably be in some countries but not here, the plant is root-fallen from tha cloddy state of the soil underneath. It vegetates, it lingers along, and eventually comes to nothing at all, like a person in consumption. Habvest. — Get all the farm work done up before harvest and everything in order, waggons mended, ladders, rakes, &c, poles cut in different lengths for props to ricks. Tour men should have their bottles filled in the morning, one gallon per day, men at the rick to empty every load that comes in before they stop for any meal ; they will then know when to begin again. If you have not cottages enough for all your men you had better agree with a set for the harvest, hired at so much per week and the remainder when harvest is finished; you will then have your remedy if any one turns contrary. If you have not time yourself and do not keep a bailiff, get a sharp old man at about a shilling a day to see to the boys at the rick, to help them in and out; it will make three or four loads a day difference, and one load left out in the wet will pay for the man a whole week. I do not recommend working too late in the harvest time; you do not gain much in the end, in fact you lose. Build your ricks in the field if you have an opportunity of converting the straw into manure, and build two together, leaving just room between to set the thrashing machine. As fast as a rick is made have it thatched at once, always keep a thatcher on the farm. Keep your men all in good humour ; if you have one that is covetous or dissatisfied discharge him at once or he will infect all the rest. Harvesting corn is very different to harvesting hay; you cannot be too careful, for if a corn rick should heat much the loss will be incalculable. Two single-handed sets will get on much better and do more than one double-handed set. Harvest Homes are getting out of fashion in many places, but it is a very old custom, and when convenient I think it ought to be kept up, for it cultivates a sort of kindly feeling between master, mistress, and men. Some give them money instead, but whatever you give in money, as I have before stated, they consider it their due, for over-work or something or other, and they are quite sure they have earned every farthing, give what you willj It is also a temptation to go to the alehouse. Hay. — All hay should be trussed once a week for all sorts of cattle, so many trusses for one week's consumption. Never allow hay for the bands, but save your coarsest oat straw or wheat straw D 34 for that purpose. The hay to be tied at per ton ; carters and shepherds will soon find out if it is short in weight; and every cut in the rick to be finished out to the bottom, and the hay knife to be looked up until next week. To make good hay cut your grass young, just before the principal plants come into bloom, for then it is at its best and contains the greatest amount of saccharine matter. Every day after that period it approximates more closely to straw, and every farmer knows the difference between hay and straw. Never be guilty of using a mowing machine if you can get men to cut it with the scythe, for all the best and prime qualities of the hay are lost. In the first place the machine will not cut so low as the scythe can go, working as it does in a comb, which instrument, pressing the grass away on either side in an oblique direction as it does with its teeth, measures at least an inch and a half the grass that is left, which is almost the best part, and that which holds the hay together after the manner of tares. I do not consider it to be good hay when it falls about like so many reeds. A great deal of the saccharine matter is also lost by being beaten off and bruised by the machine; and I should like to know how much there is left on per acre after some of these mowers have been over it ; we will say measure one square foot, pull it upright and cut it off fairly, and supposing it when dry to weigh a quarter of an ounce, that will be six cwt. and eight lbs. ten ounces per acre ! I also consider, in addition to this loss, that on heavy wheat land your pair of horses with the man will earn fifteen shillings per day, for it will not do the horses so much harm to plough an acre of fallows as it will to go all day with the mowing machine. When your grass is cut you can use a machine to throw the grass about and turn it, but when it gets at all dry it ought not to be tossed and shaken about anyhow with the common hay-making machines, you shake all the best of it away. If you can get one with a quiet back action, just to turn it over, that may do very well, but it must not be tossed about anyhow when very near hay. As soon as the grass begins to dry it should be all got into windrows, and then, as it is nearer being fit to carry, it should be put into cocks, and the night before it is carried, when of course it is nearly or quite made and dry, it ought to be put into large cocks, or the dew of the night will lessen the weight very considerably, and likewise destroy a great amount of saccharine matter. Some farmers consider it unnecessary to put hay into cocks, but I am. impressed with the conviction that by saving a few 35 shillings you lose many pounds in neglecting to do so. Two shillings per head on sheep and ore pound per head on cattle will amount to a considerable sum. Take for example two half ounces of tea, put one on a plate and place it in the meadow in the evening; the next day when thoroughly dry make both lots into tea with boiling water, and see which is best; it must not be done before the tea is quite dry, it would not be a fair trial; you would not carry the hay while the dew was still upon it, neither must you carry the tea. Owing to the woolly and feathery nature of meadow hay it naturally exhales an immensity of its most valuable properties during the imbibition of the dews in the night. There is more art in making good hay than many are aware of; it should be done just to the turn." Two or three hundred pounds are soon lost where a large stock of sheep and cattle are kept, when the hay- making has been neglected; no fat, no flesh, no milk for the lambs, and to crown all, the shepherd always in a bad humour and the master not much better. All sorts of clover hay should also be cocked a day or two, or three, before it is fit to carry, and the cocks carefully turned to dry the under side before it is carted to the stack. If your hay is nearly fit to carry and not fit to put in a large stack, and much wet weather expected, draw it where you intend making your rick, mark out the place and build six or eight small stacks all around, and then when a fine day comes all hands to work and build your rick. All farmers should have a rick cloth, and as soon as the rick is settled down thatch at once. If your rick should heat too much and be in danger test it with your boring knife; of course you have one ; for turning one rick un- necessarily will more than pay for the instrument. If too hot it must be turned at once. "Get your men together, give them some beer, keep on cutting round the rick, you will then get all the coolest of the hay at the bottom and the hottest upon the top in its right place. Some say they never fear or have a hot rick of hay. Anyone of course may allow it to remain out long enough until all the heating properties are gone and lost, but that reminds one of a man running to the station over-night to be in time for the train next day, thereby involving great loss of time. Hedges should be planted on the breast of the bank as before stated (see " Fences ") ; to be kept clipped round the corn fields, but not the meadows, for you require them high here and there alternately for sheltering the cattle, and to be cut once in eight d2 36 years at so much per pole. The rough briers, &c, to be tied up Separately, in convenient bundles, for bottoms of hay ricks on pasture farms ; and when bean straw cannot be obtained on corn farms, it is much better than cereal straw. Hills. — If your fields are at all hilly, when feeding with sheep always begin on the highest ground, for sheep will always fall back to the rising "ground, and that is where the manure is required. When that drift is finished begin at the top again, and so on until the field is finished. If at last it should so happen that you think you will finish at the top, take down a double drift at last and then you will leave off in the right place, viz.: — in the valley. Honey. — Every house should keep a good s(jpck of honey, in every point of view. What I mean is, keep plenty of bees, for they cost little or nothing and yield a profitable return. It is also a famous thing to mix with gruel, if the ewes require any after lambing. Sow a large bed of sunflowers every year close to the apiary, and you will have no further trouble. Hops. — The soil for hops should be a dark rich sandy loam on a dry subsoil, and well sheltered from the north-west, north, and north-east winds. Whether it is old pasture broken up or not, it should be ploughed once a week all through the summer previous to planting, which will destroy all insects. When the plants are in, small furrows should be made near to carry off superfluous Tains. Sparrows should be preserved as much as possible to prevent the ravages of the numerous insects that attack the vine, and all the blood that can be procured should be mixed with wood ashes and applied to the roots to prevent mould. Homes. — The cheapest and best method of keeping farm-horses is, I consider, to breed if you can, if not, buy suckers in the autumn and work them as long as they will do a fair day's work. If a horse is eight or nine years old the dealers will tell you he is fourteen or fifteen, and when he is that age they will not call him much more. When your horses, one, two, or three, begin to flag, put them in a loose place, give them a gentle dose of physic after they have rested a week, then give them plenty of grated roots, grains, meal, malt dust, chaff, linseed meal, viz. : — linseed ground, one-third, and coarse bran, ground two-thirds; mixed and then groucd together; not too much at first or they will not eat it. A little salt should be given, and some finely powdered tobacco, in very small quantities at first, and increase the quantity until you get 37 half an ounce per day. If in cold weather give them a few black peppercorns. Always keep water by them, and see that they are well curry-combed, feet and heels to be kept clean; greasy heels I consider to be the fruit of negligence. Fatten as quickly as you can and get them off out' of the way; warrant them, alive and nothing more, unless you wish to guarantee yourself trouble. The working horses should always be kept well up to their work and one degree above, in case sometimes in catching weather you may perhaps require to drive until dark at night; always finish your piece of land if you can, if it is far away from the next work, and then rest your horses an hour or two longer the next morning. All working horses should be turned into a loose well-sheltered yard at night, with plenty of water in a trough (if there is no pond). The troughs are best, as then their legs will not get wet. If you have many horses they will not probably all 'agree, you must then divide your yard accordingly; see that you have a good wide shed to each yard. All corn should be bruised; give a few old beans all the year round as a preventive against colic. Old black Tartar oats is the best feed you can give to any horse; old dry rye is also a good thing. In the winter a few carrots should be given, cut very small and mixed with the bait. Old white peas are also very wholesome and very fattening for horses, and two trusses of hay should be allowed per horse per week, and no more, unless you have more hay than you require, and cannot sell, then give more hay and less corn ; but always give old beans and a little dry powdered tobacco, and your horses will never be troubled with the colic, unless you may happen to have one in your team that is constitutionally predisposed to the complaint, then you had better get rid of him at once. The water to which they have free access at night should be pumped into the troughs in the morning before the carters leave home. If the water is very hard keep a few wood ashes in the bottom of your troughs, and changed every week. Every farmer should be careful not to ride or drive a tumble-down horse; if he falls and injures the rider other things will fall for want of looking after. If your business is large enough to require a horse I should recommend a stroilg pony for that purpose, especially in the summer season when the roads are hard. All nags should be kept in a loose box, rack and manger along one side, rack to be down to the ground and the same height as the manger, then if a horse comes home tired he can lie down and eat his hay and rest his legs. All nag horses' feet should be cleaned 38 out at night, washed out with the water brush with bristles at the end, to get out the small grit and gravel that will be sure to work in under the shoe, and will surely bring corns. There should then be a little tar applied with a small round brush, and then stopped up with a mixture of cow dung and clay. In the morning all should be cleaned and washed out, and the outside of the hoof oiled over close up and under the hair of the legs. A nag horse should always have a small head but wide between the eyes, which should be of a rich brown colour, bright, and courageous; blue eyes are apt to go blind if ridden hard. He should carry his head well up, and carry it himself, and his jaws should be wide underneath ; expanded nostril, small ear, arched neck, convex on the upper surface, not presenting any carve underneath, but to come up from the breast in almost a perpendicular line to the setting on of the head. The shoulder should lie back at an angle of forty-five degrees, from which point to the setting on of the tail the back should be nearly straight, barrel round, hind quarters long. The body of the horse should be in three equal parts, from the outside of the mmp to the hip bone, one; from that point to a line with the hinder part of the muscles of the shoulder, two; from that point to the breast bone, three; and from the last-named point to the muzzle will generally make a fourth even part, if mounted and walking away. A perfectly formed animal will also show two even parts, viz. : — from the setting on of the tail to the front part of the saddle, one; and from that point to the ears, two. The muscles of the upper part of the neck should be firm, and feel somewhat similar to the strings of the violoncello when strained up to a high tension. The legs should be fiat, wide, and firm, and short below the knees and hocks. The pasterns ought not to be too long unless intended for racing. A good nag should not be under 15 hands 8 inches, nor more than 16 hands 2 inches, in height. The great secret in breeding good nags is, not to allow either sire or dam to do any laborious work until they are five or six years old, if you have any desire to be carried a good smooth pace, and the sire must be thorough-bred. The hoof of the horse should not be flat, but sloping back not less than an angle of forty- five degrees in front; and must not be straight inside or out, but slope in a little upwards. (For farther description, and cart horses, see " Stock") The thigh of the nag horse, half-way from the hip bone to the hock, should stand out in a straight line with the ribs, shoulder, and muzzle, when the horse's head is held straight. 39 House, ob Home. — It is good policy for every farmer to make his house and home as good and as comfortable as he can, consistently with the position in which he moves. It will be an inducement to return as quickly as he can, when he is absent at fairs and markets. Humility is very desirable in all persons connected with business matters. " They say humility adds charms to beauty ; I say it helps ub to perform our duty. The lark builds lowest on the ground, And rises until -we lose the sound." Hurdles. — Always keep a stock of hurdles. They should be bought, fetched home and stacked up, taking care to place sjme old posts or something to keep them from the ground, and thatched at the top and also round the sides, down to the ground, or the fly will get in and breed maggots, which will eat holes in the wood; and keep them a year before you use them. In warm dry countries I recommend flake, or gate hurdles, especially where sheep are fattened, as the manure will then be left more regularly over the land. They do not cost as much again, but they will last more than as long again, consequently they are cheaper. The same attention must be paid with regard to stacking, &c, and more particularly as to the fly. Idleness. — If you have a lazy man or boy about, discharge Mm after you have given him due caution, or he will contaminate all the others. Implements. — Mind and not keep more than you want for use there are always plenty of people about persuading you to buy this or that; say you are full. All waggons and carts should be washed now and then when very dirty, and when ploughing is all done, which ought to be before Christmas, the ploughs should also be washed and put away, drags, harrows, rollers, and rakes ; a place for everything, and everything in its 'place. The carter should, with those under him, attend to this department ; it is his place to do so. A great many will not trouble about it ; then they cannot be perfect carters. Indian Coen, when you can buy it cheaper than anything else, may be advantageously employed for mixing a little with horse cprn, or feed, and with other corn for fattening hogs. It is also a good thing for poultry. 40 Insects.— The first plan is to encourage all the rooks you can, and never allow your carters and boys to set traps in the furrow to catch them. It is the way to drive them all away. Preserve birds of all sorts ; they feed on insects, and are sent for that purpose. Well pulverize the soil, and not sow turnips too soon, if the fly or flea is busy, which you can soon ascertain ; plough the land over again about two inches deep, and wait a few days, and starve them out. If you do get the fly, the best plan is to roll them in the night with a light one-horse roller when the dew is on the plant. Mustard or radish seed, when it can be bought cheap, may be sown amongst a few turnips for early feed ; the fly will feed on the radish while the turnip is growing. Club root is very popularly supposed to be attributable to the peculiarities of the soil, but it is no such thing. Take up a plant, carefully plant it in a garden pot, cover it all over with a piece of fine gauze, and you will soon be convinced it is only an insect. Therefore preserve that which destroys them and feeds on them. Black Palmer worm ; when it appears, buy all the young ducks you can get ; if you cannot get enough for all the worms, you had better put two men with a waggon line, one at each end, and draw all over the piece in drifts until all is done, and drive a flock of sheep steadily over behind. Slugs. — When you are troubled with many slugs get some good fresh lime, slake it in the evening (it ought to be in damp weather, if possible), and sow it the same night, at about two bushels per acre. If the wind is in the west, which very likely it will be if the weather is damp, begin sowing the east side ; sow up and down from north to south and finish the west side, or they will find of the lime before it reaches them strong enough to destroy them. If there are many slugs on your clover ley intended for wheat, you should sow the lime before you plough it and sow again before you put in your wheat if there are many left. To destroy slugs in the garden use dry and finely powdered salt ; a small pinch on each one -tfrill soon deprive it of life. Destroy all cockchafers, crane flies, click beetles, &c, before they have laid their eggs, or preserve the birds to accomplish that object, for by destroying one mother perhaps the ravages of a thousand grubs are prevented, A mixture of lime powdered, wood ashes, and sulphur drawn over the turnips when attacked with the fly, in a machine constructed after the same manner as a flour dressing machine, will sometimes answer the purpose, but it must 41 be done in the night. Dig holes round apple trees, &c., and wash in stable urine, which will destroy a great many insects ; but above all preserve the birds, for it is no east wind tha>t brings blight or anything of the sort ; the honey-dew is nothing more than the excrement of insects. The east wind, called blight, is favourable for the production of insects. Iron. — Be careful of all the old iron. Keep the wrought iron under lock and key. Cast iron, such as old tops, &c., &c., keep in some convenient corner. Keep all sorts of old wrought iron separate, viz.: — chains, hoop iron, nails in a box, staples on a nail, bolsters on a string, nuts also, and pins of every sort save. Ikriga.tion. — All manure water, viz.: — liquid manure, can be soaked up in ashes unless you like to irrigate an orchard for an experiment or such like ; you will require some for the trees, &c. A good water meadow is a wonderful auxiliary to a large stock farm, but to attempt to irrigate any pasture or meadow land unless you can get it to run off quickly, is great folly, and you do more harm than good. Ivy, a famous food for weak ewes after lambing, when they are not strong enough to eat a turnip or swede. Journeys ; carters or shepherds going from home. Give what is customary in the neighbourhood to the shepherd when he goes to fair, and if he has sheep to take do not hurry him there for the sake of a few shillings. If a hundred sheep are going to fair and they are over driven, a shilling per head is very soon driven away, and there goes five pounds. With regard to the carter, I should always give one shilling per load and no more, and what else he requires make up in wages. The carter should always be home in plough hours ; I have seen teams standing by the road side as late as five and six o'clock in the evening, and then, one catches a cold, which may, perhaps, go through the stable; or one may have the colic. Jumping Sheep. — Never rear a lamb up by hand at home, and then turn it into your flock. He will teach all the others to jump. If one should take to jumping, get two collars and tie the sheep that jumps to another, and if that will not stop it, you had better have recourse to the shepherd's infallible blue pill, viz.: — the knife. 42 K. Keys. — Every farmer should keep a master key of all locks, L. Ladders. — If your approach to the hay loft over your stable is outside, be careful to have round steps; flat ones hold the wet, and are dangerous coming down; and look well to all ladders, it does not cost so much to mend one as it does to mend a man's leg or arm. Land Measttbe. — Every farmer should have a knowledge of land measuring; it is very easily acquired. A farmer ought to be able to get four sticks and step out an acre at any time, supposing the drill runs too fast or not fast enough. All corn does not run alike, sometimes it is dry and at others it is not so dry; of course no farmer would think of sowing damp seed of any sort, unless he was out of his mind, and then he would have no mind to think at all. Sometimes the seed is much larger, and then it will not be thick enough; therefore when your drill goes into the field, you or your bailiff should stride out the length the same way as the drill is intended to go, and then ascertain how many turns of the drill will make an acre. Supposing your drill goes twenty chain before it turns, which will be two thousand links, and then half a chain in width, viz. : — fifty links will make an acre, or would be nearly three turns for an ordinary drill. 20 chain 2000 links. ■J -chain 50 links. Acre 1,00000 4 Rood ,00000 40 Pole ,00000 And so multiply the length by the breadth; when you stride out a piece of land without the chain keep your legs perfectly straight, and you will soon find out how many of your strides or steps make a chain. If any man- does not, or perhaps will not, perform his work in a proper manner, then get your chain, measure his cut, and discharge him at once, for while you are sending for the man to measure he will probably be sowing discord amongst the others. 43 Larch. — All hilly slopes" and poor hills should be planted with larch if no feed grows for sheep, &c, and when the trees get up and are properly thinned out the grass will grow. The poorer and colder the soil is the better they will thrive. Lakes. — Be guarded against larks of every description, and more especially in open fields where wheat is sown late on a clover ley, and the soil is gravelly or Sandy; they will soon devour it all. If much wet weather should come, and you are obliged to be late with your wheat, you must put a man with a gun and plenty of powder and shot, or they will spoil your crop; and put him there soon enough, for they find of it just before it comes through the ground; it is no use sending a boy. Latjbels. — To save buying, cut off young shoots the last week in September. Gut them off square (after you have taken them from the tree) just below the lowest bud or leaf, prepare a bed with .plenty of sand or road grit well mixed with the soil, put them in six inches deep, sis inches apart, and one foot between the rows. Do not stick them in as you would your walking-stick, for by so doing you will disturb the bark and they will not grow, but make a trench and lay them in carefully, press the earth tightly round them at bottom and leave it loose on the top. The same rule is, in my opinion, equally applicable to all plants and cuttings, or sets. Lease. — It is necessary that every farmer should have a lease or an agreement for twelve, sixteen, twenty, or twenty-four- years, and to be paid for all unexhausted improvements and all hay and straw at the market price at the expiration of his tenancy. Tenant not to be allowed to sell any hay or straw of any sort, not to sow more than two white straw crops in succession, and the last year of the tenancy there should be the same quantity of acres tinder two green crops (or one of pulse and one green crop) as there are acres under two white straw crops. That the tenant shall himself stock the said farm with sufficient stock (according to the judgment and decision of two valuers) to keep the said farm in good and fair condition; and the said tenant shall also himself, with his own stock alone, consume all green and root crops growing upon the said farm. If they cannot agree, a third party should be umpire, whose decision shall be final, and who in all cases should be chosen before they commence. The tenant to keep all water-courses and ditches properly scoured out when necessary, to keep all hedges and fences in good order, and to take care of all young trees and timber; not to break up or convert into tillage any pasture land without leave from the landlord, in writing, under a penalty of twenty pounds per acre; and not to mow any meadow land more than three years in succession, unless well manured once during that period. Landlord to put all premises, buildings, bridges, gates, stiles, and fences, in good and perfect repair, and no rent to become due from the tenant until that is completed. The tenant to keep everything in repair. Landlord to allow all materials and to pay for sawing all timber; and in case of such provision not being made within one month after the notice given, the tenant shall be allowed to buy the said materials in the nearest market, and deduct the cost from his nert and following rent when due% If you rent under a generous-hearted landlord or a nobleman by birth, and there is no fear of the estate falling into the hands of a money-making gentleman, there is no necessity for either lease or agreement. Limb or Brick Kiln. — If you have any odd clay corner, which is the case on some farms, and fit for nothing else, look out when you first take the farm and your landlord will probably erect one; you will find it very convenient. Limb Tree. — Plant a few near to the apiaries for your bees; it is also the best wood for making your butter utensils, for it is the only British wood entirely free from the pyroligneous acid. Locks. — See well to all locks, if anyone has attempted to pick them or break the springs. Locust Tree is the best timber of any sort for pillars, the bottoms of which are to go in the ground, and especially for stalls in stables; they will never rot, and last as long as stone. Lucern, if cut young, makes better hay for fattening purposes than any other artificial grass, and every farmer should have a few acres, unless he is fortunate enough to be in possession of plenty of good pasture. The soil must be ploughed very deep and well manured, seed twenty pounds to the acre, and drilled in rows nine inches apart, and well hoed every autumn and spring the same as osier beds. For milch cows it is far superior to clover, giving no taste to the butter. It should be cut the day before it is used, put into small heaps, and sprinkled with salt water. The best imple- ment for hoeing the lucern is one which should be made something 45 like a turnip pick, only stronger, and with four teeth instead of two. It ought also to be harrowed in the spring, and well rolled. One thing bear in mind, the deeper it is ploughed and pulverized (not forgetting the manure, keeping it about in the middle), even to the depth of three feet, the more you will grow, and the longer it will last. M. Mam is the most nutritious of all feeding stuff for cattle and sheep, but the heavy duty prevents the much needed extensive use of that valuable article; our animals would fatten much sooner, and the flesh would be much milder and more digestible than that which is fattened with oil-cake. That we shall eventually get the whole duty off no one can deny; a continual agitation amongst all farmers will be as certain to obtain it as the manufacturers did off foreign corn. Mangeb, in cart stable, to be made of proper width, and no iron rings; they will wear out your halter reins; but have pieces of wood nailed on outside, with a hole, and a little grease now and then. Mangold Wttrtzel. — Land that will not grow good swedes will grow good mangold if you choose to go to the expense. I consider every farmer should grow a few acres, for they are at their best and in greatest perfection in February and March, when the swedes are depreciating in value every day. It is undoubtedly a very valuable root for all sorts of feeding and milch purposes. Dairymen should also grow a few acres of mangold; one acre will be sufficient to keep ten cows during the winter months, if properly cultivated. The land should be ridged two feet apart, and the plants set out by women at the distance of one foot apart. Tou must be guided in a measure by your cart wheels as to the distance your ridges should be apart, for it must be well manured and ridges not trampled upon. One woman should shake it into the furrow, and another walk in, spread, and tread it down close, or it will not be buried effectually; then split the ridges and cover in hot. Mangold will not thrive well on cold wet soils where the land is flat; choose a piece of land sloping towards the south or west, and when it is ridged all superfluous rains will run off quickly. About the middle or latter end of April is the proper time for sowing, and about six pounds of seed per acre should be 46 sown. The Orange Globe is the best sort to grow, excepting on wet land, and then perhaps the Long Red will thrive best. The seed must not be planted too deep, aboufc half an inch or three quarters at most. As soon as the plants are strong enough, have them singled out by the women, horse-hoe well between the ridges, and men to hoe between the plants. About the last week in October get them up as quickly as possible for fear of the frost; the most expeditious way is to have a pair of horses at length and a plough with an old blunt share, which will root them up without cutting them off. Women go after and cut off the tops, which they ought to spread evenly over the land to be ploughed in, and throw the roots into heaps, and those that are not drawn Lome must be covered up at night to protect them from the frost. Cart some home to begin feeding with first, in some shed, and protect with short muck, then a lot more in the mowstead of a bam. They will not hurt four feet thick all over the barn, put straw at the sides and plenty on the top. If you have not sufficient yard room for the remainder, pare down the side of some bank in the field nearest the homestead and stack them up; begin about eight feet at bottom with the roots and finish to a point at the top. Put on some dry straw, cover over with earth to the thickness of nearly one foot, having some small draining tiles placed upright six feet apart all along the top of your ridge or heap, to allow the fermentation to go off, or they will rot. Save all the manure you can from the geese and pigeons ; it is the best you can apply to this crop. When the earth on the heap begins to get dry put on a good coat of thatch. Manttbes. — Good farm-yard manure is the best of any, therefore always see that your buildings are all spouted when you look at a farm, before you take it, or the loss will be incalculable. The rain that falls directly on the manure will not do any harm, it is the continual flooding and washing that does the harm. Fat hog manure is the best. The manure from the stable should be carried regularly all over the yard by the carters or boys every morning with hand-barrows made for that purpose, and one boy spread it about. Some people allow it to remain in a large heap just in front of their stable doors, a very unhealthy practice. After a time, when walking over your fields, you will exclaim, "What a difference in this crop; it was all done alike." No, the carter perhaps has been laying on this stable manure, and then from the other side of the yard nothing but rotten straw, washed by the 47 water from the buildings. When you have nothing else to do always cart manure to some convenient place, and draw your carta over the heap to prevent fermentation, turn it over about ten days or a fortnight before you intend to use it. If your heap has been made in the field get a plough and one horse, skim over about two. inches and draw that away also, or, besides being a waste, your corn will fall down and be good for nothing, while rpots will be all leaf and no bulb. All liquid manure should be saved for mixing with ashes (see "Ashes"), or some may be placed in a tank into which all vegetable refuse can be thrown. Keep your yards well mixed, and allow it to heat a little in a heap. To complete this object it should be thrown up in the yard about ten days before you use it, for by so doing you will destroy all seeds of weeds, and also destroy myriads of insects. One-third of the cost of all artificial manures should be charged to the rent of your farm. I should always recommend a little superphosphate of lime for the turnip crop, see that it is genuine, there are thousands of bushels of peat ashes mixed with that article, and the better plan will be to make it yourself. But you must understand the constitution of your soil before you know what to apply ; every farm should be a self- supporting machine. To make your own superphosphate fix an iron tank near the ash, and turnip manure shed, in which you throw all animals that die, and dissolve with vitriol and mix with the ashes. Manures, Artificial. — Some landlords will not allow their tenants to sell straw; some will, provided they buy artificial manure with the money. I even then doubt if it will pay on a large scale. When you go into the market mind and buy a genuine article. Rape-cake, when pulverized, is a famous manure for turnips, but it must not be drilled to run in the same pipe with the seed ; a layer of earth should intervene ; malt and kiln dust are also both good manures ; sea- weed, kelp, and decayed vegetable matter of any kind, are all good manures. When green crops are ploughed in for manure it should be done at the same time as cutting for hay, viz.: — -just before it comes into bloom. Fish is a powerful manure, and also blubber, which should be mixed with soil of some sort some time before it is applied to the land. Bones appear to be the most important discovery, and, as I have before stated, every farmer should prepare them at home ; he then knows what he has, and it will not cost much to erect a shed for that purpose, and a tank into which you throw every thing that happens to die. 48 Horn is more powerful still ; hair, woollen rags, and feathers, are all valuable manures, and so with blood and night soil, saltpetre 1 , nitrate of soda, guano, and soot ; the latter is a good top-dressing for wheat, especially where hares and rabbits abound. Salt is also a good manure, and gypsum is the best top-dressing for sanfoin, clover, and lucern, when they appear to be worn out. It is a misfortune that some men are with difficulty persuaded to deviate from the course to which they have been long accustomed, and go blundering on in the beaten track of their ancestors. There is also a very valuable compost to be made from the following recipe, viz.: — 50 lbs. of potash, 4 galls, of common oil, 1 cwt. of common salt, 1 bushel of lime. Throw the lime into a cistern, add enough water to slake it, dissolve the potash in about twelve gallons of water, which add to the lime and mix ; then add the oil and incorporate the whole together, after which sprinkle this compound with a watering-pot on a sufficient quantity of absorbent earth or vegetable mould, about fifty bushels, that the earth may imbibe these ingredients. During this imbibition add the salt, mix the whole together, and after it has lain some time it will be fit for use. This quantity will be sufficient for one acre as a top-dressing, and if well pul- verized, would be enough to drill in for two acres of turnips. Night soil is, undoubtedly, the most powerful fertilizer ; after that pigeons' dung comes next in order as to fertilizing power, and goose dung, which are both valuable manures for mangolds and swedes. The strippings of osiers, and willows, and beam straw, are amongst the most powerful of the dry vegetable matters, in fact almost anything will do some good. The great secret is the selection and adaptation of the proper manures to the proper crops and soils. Gather all sorts of rubbish together and convert into vegetable compost in some convenient heap, or throw it into a liquid manure tank ; and that which is too dry should be burned into ashes. Plough in all farm yard manure as soon as possible. Mbasttbe. — Always make good measure, but fill the bushel at once and not do it at twice as some people do. A sack of wheat will weigh two pounds heavier if done so. Fill the bushel, leaving about a pint and a half to strike off, which should be done straight 49 across, but for oats to make fair measure, the strike, which should be a long one, should be drawn across in a zig-zag direction three or four times; and for rye grass seed, seven or eight times. All other sorts the same as for wheat. Mice. — Keep plenty of cats and feed them well ; they will then stay at home and catch the mice. Have your ricks dressed as soon as thatched, prepare the sticks, which should be fresh and green, get any preparation from the druggist (the Wiltshire composition is as good as any), put a little on the sticks, get one of your own men, and place the sticks round the rick just under the eaves,, and never allow any strange man to be on the place for any such purpose. Minute Book. — Keep one in your. pocket, for short hints and observations. Mustabd. — Wild mustard resembles the charlock in its growth but it is quite a different plant, and is produced partly by the sourness of the soil. Chalk is the best remedy. N. Neig-hbotjbs. — Consult with your neighbours as to the proper price to be paid for each and every sort of work, so as to maintain harmony in the parish. Nigkht-Soil should be mixed with double its quantity of ashes or vegetable mould, and turned often some time before it is used. Night- wobk, in the harvest time, is of little or no advantage in a general way. Nuts, ob Filbebts. — You can always find room to plant some in your orchard; most people are in the habit of keeping them, and it will save buying. o. Oats. — The most profitable sorts are the black and white Tartar, and the Irish or Dutch brews. There is a small red Devonshire oat that may be grown with advantage on some poor light hills. The white Tartar should be sown or drilled the first week in March, about one sack to the acre, and after wheat, unless you adopt the five-course system (which is perhaps the most profitable on some 50 Boils) ; it would then follow turnips, and barley after the wheat. The black Tartar may be sown as late as the middle of April, they should be cut before they get too ripe or many will be lost. The black Tartar is the best for horse feed when harvested well, a year old, and bruised. They will stand more rain after they are cut than any other grain crop, without taking damage or being deteriorated in value; therefore look after the other crops and leave these until last. The Irish or Dutch brew may be sown as late as the middle of May, although they will do much better planted in the middle of April. The soil cannot be much too rich for this sort, they make better meal and will fatten a horse sooner than the other sorts. But we do not always want fat horses, we want condition sometimes, and then we must feed on good, old, sweet, black Tartar oats, and beans, and old rye grass hay cut young, so that the knots in the stalks, when you bite them, shall be as sweet as honey, that alone being the true test. The white Tartar comes next in order for feeding purposes for working horses. The Devon oats do very well to sell when people will buy. The land for oats should be worked down and drilled in, or ploughed once very shallow, not more than three inches in depth; the dry earth being turned in will help to keep the soil warm and healthy, but if the weather is likely to become unsettled get them in at once. In harvesting the crop be careful to have very small sheaves; they should be fagged, and will require to remain in the field for some time. They should be set up the same as wheat, not more than ten in a shock, as it is called in some counties, five on one side and five the other. They must be perfectly dry before they are carried; the rick or stack should never be more than five yards wide, as long and as high as you like, for this crop is more likely to heat than any other. If the weather is wet, and no chance whatever of getting them in thorough condition, make the stacks very narrow, and make air-holes with hurdles leaning against each other in the shape of the capital letter /V across the rick or all down the whole length. Oechabd. — There should always be an orchard to every farm, for we will suppose there is a small pasture or paddock of an acre or two for weaning calves, &c, and the apple trees will do more .good than harm (planting trees, &c., see "Cider"). The trees should be pruned every year as soon as the fruit is gathered in, and liquid manure applied and washed in with wood ashes. An orchard should be well-sheltered from the north-west, north, 51 east, and south-east winds, by a plantation of firs or thick thorp hedge, kept trimmed or clipt at the sides. In some parts the fir will attract the blight The heads of the trees should be kept open so as for not one branch to touch another, and to be pruned to a conical shape. If you have an over-abundant crop the fruit ought to be thinned out, or the next year perhaps will be almost barren; there will be no room for the next year's fruit buds to perfect themselves. Small apple and pear trees should be trained by means of hoops brought down over the tree to the lower branches first, which should be bent upside down and fastened to the hoop, and so continue. Osier, or Withy Beds. — In all low places and sides of water courses plant osiers or withies ; they will yield a profitable return , every year if well attended to. If too wet, and a low level, it should be thrown up into beds about three yards wide, and furrows ,kept clean, and also well hoed every spring. Oxen. — Keep your oxen in good working condition. Some farmers in hilly, stony, gravelly, hot counties, cannot work oxen with any advantage, but where the soil and climate is suitable every farmer should keep one, two, three, or four teams, on heavy soils. The Hereford ox is perhaps the best; in hotter counties the Devon ox will stand his work best. The half-bred is also a good breed, a cross between the Hereford bull and short-horn cow. In very hot counties oxen will endure the heat much better if they are bred or reared in the same neighbourhood. If you do buy do so in the autumn or about the latter end of October, they will then be gradually inured to the hot climate of the neighbourhood before the following summer. Working oxen in the summer season should have a well-sheltered meadow with plenty of grass and water, and no other cattle to be allowed to go with them. If grass is short they should have a handful or two of grass, or green food of some sort, mornings and evenings, when they are first brought in and before they are turned out. Where the soil is light oxen may be driven with reins two in a plough. With regard to management in winter season, the yard should be well sheltered from the east wind, the shed being at the north (see "Buildings"). The yard should be of convenient size according to quantity kept, provided with plenty of good water, and well littered up every day. The manure to be thrown out of the shed every morning and evening; grated roots mixed with as much good wheat, barley, or oat straw e2 52 Cut into chaff, as will hold together, given morning and evening. Square iron cribs to stand in the yard and moved occasionally, to be filled with loose straw twice a day. They will not require any hay unless they are at work, and then the allowance for each ox per week should be trussed and neatly stacked opposite his place in the ox-shed (see "Buildings"). Paring and Burning will answer well on peaty soils, both arable and pasture, and also upon clay soils; old sanfoin leys, if very t)ld and rough, it would be advisable to pare and burn. It may be done with the teams if you have a proper plough for that purpose; well harrow and drag, and get dry, burn and spread the ashes, plough or rafter the land very shallow, and sow with rape to feed off with sheep for wheat. If you are late and your rape is not fit to feed off in the autumn, let it remain until spring; feed off then and into oats. On sandy or gravelly soil I should not recommend burning the soil too much. Paring and burning is the best thing you can do with old rough peaty meadows. Spread the ashes and sow the best seed you can get of the proper sorts. Meadows not worth five shillings an acre to rent may be made worth thirty-five shillings per acre in three years. Pare, chop, and burn all rough hedgerows and sides of ditches round and adjoining all ploughed fields, also on the edge of the downs, if rough; pare and burn ashes for turnips and swedes. Paksnip. — The land intended for a crop of parsnips should be ploughed deep in the autumn three or four times, and well manured with good rotten manure and buried about in the middle. It must then remain until February, and as soon as it is dry enough work it down and drill rows fifteen inches apart; when the plants are up set them out at eight inches apart, and keep them clean with the hoe. They are very nutritious for all sorts of cattle, and may be grown where the soil is not suitable for carrots. Tou need not hurry about taking them up, for the frost will improve them, and then they make a first-rate wine. Horses should not feed on them too freely, especially horses with blue eyes. Pasture and Meadow Land should be fed and mown alternately, for to mow every year will rob it each time more and more of its fattening or feeding properties, unless you well manure after the hay is carried, and sow the dwarf sole seeds of those grasses whiGh 53 you continue to rob from the soil. Meadows should be well bush- harrowed in the winter and rolled with a heavy roller when the land is dry, and before it gets too hard, not cut it to pieces with those Cambridge rollers ; they do more harm than good. Never send your teams to roll during wet weather, or immediately after j you will smear it down and the grasses cannot enjoy themselves. If your pasture is deficient of the most nutritious and succulent grasses, such as the following : — meadow foxtail, sweet scented vernal grass, meadow fescue, cocksfoot grass, meadow catstail, tall oat grass, creeping vetch, rye grass, meadow oat grass, hard fescue grass, rough stalked meadow grass, smooth stalked meadow grass, red clover, white clover, yellow clover, creeping bent, or marsh bent grass — as soon as the hay is cleared off, put on some well rotted manure and sow any of these seeds you think your land may require, and well bush-harrow in. The light seeds should be sown first and by themselves, for they ought to be buried deepest, and the heavier seeds last ; they must not be planted so deep ; besides, no man can sow heavy and light seeds well together. If you have a poor, rough, peaty meadow, and nothing will feed it, pare and burn, spread the ashes, and sow the above-named sorts with a crop of oats. If yon have a coarse, rough meadow, and the cattle do not care to eat it, and it is free from peat, erect a shed, put up a stack of hay about in the middle, fence round, put in as many cattle as can lie comfortably in the shed at night ; the more you have the better, and fodder them over the meadow every night and morning. Put the hay in small heaps, two heaps for each bullock, taking care to put the hay in a fresh place every time. When you have been over the meadow once, begin again in the same place you began before. Follow that plan all through the winter; never mind how wet it is ; if it is trodden like a piece of fallows all the better. Then in March take the cattle out, harrow it well, and sow some of the sorts of seeds I have mentioned ; bush-harrow in and well roll down. There should always be two or three or more trees in feeding pastures for cattle to rub against, and for cool shade. If, as may be the case in some countries, the flies torment the cattle too much underneath the trees, sheds should be erected, open at the two ends and closed at the sides, and rubbing posts may be substituted for trees. Rushes, sedge, and most of the thistle family may be got rid of by draining, but there are still some which must be attended to, such as the dock, the hogweed, common nettle, marsh marigold, yellow goats-beard, and stem.- 51 less thistle, which must be thoroughly extirpated. See that your ditches are well cleaned out every October or soon after. It is a good plan to bush-harrow all meadows in February, whether they are fed or mown ; it brushes off, and pulverizes the earth which the worms have cast up during the winter, and it should also be rolled if time will allow. Chalk is the best application for clay soils and meadows that are full of moss. Guano is also a good manure for cold, wet pastures ; in fact almost' anything will do good. If you travel through a country ever so poor you will often see a small meadow, belonging to some poor man, especially if near a town, a great deal better than the rest of the neighbouring meadows. Bone dust is a capital manure for some pastures in a dry, warm situation, and also blood manure ; but plenty of good farm- yard manure, when you have enough, with a little chalk, where required, will improve almost any pasture land ; you may improve any land, but you cannot make bad soil a good one. Hot gravels and sands may be improved by an application of clay and mud from old ponds mixed with lime. Wheat straw, if thrashed soon after harvest and spread over the land immediately, will improve the meadow and arable land also. When pasture land is much worm-cast it cannot be first-rate. Some pastures or meadow land require draining, but there are others that will derive little or no benefit by so doing, viz.: — stiff clays. The better plan is to cut gutters across the field, one foot in depth, eight inches wide, and about six yards apart, and to be cleaned out every autumn as soon as the cattle have done feeding. The soil taken out should be carted to convenient heaps in the meadow and mixed with lime and manure, trimmings of hedges, ditches, and any vegetable matter, frequently turned and got thoroughly decomposed. It should then be carted out in small heaps on the meadow, and spread, the sorts of grass seeds sown in which the land is deficient, and well bush-harrowed in. I consider this plan to be far pre- ferable to draining on soils of this description. Some farmers say it is a great waste to cut the land about. How say they with regard to valuable water meadows ? See how they are cut about. Pat-Night. — Some farmers are in the habit of paying their men on Saturday nights. I object to the plan myself; it is a temptation to go to the ale-house more that night than any other, for the simple reason, that if a man takes too much over-night he does not want, nor is he fit for, much work the next day, and some are good for nothing; and in addition to that they desecrate the Sabbath- .55 day. Therefore I consider Monday night to be the proper night, and if a man went to church the day before he will not be so likely to have forgotten the good advice he then received, until he has spent all his money to the best advantage for his domestic happiness, and has none left for the ale-house. Peas are rather an uncertain crop. On hot gravelly soils they are apt to blight, and on cold wet soils they will not come to much. On a quick soil they may be sometimes grown on land intended' for green or red round turnips, the seed is not very dear; after the peas have been well hoed, and as late as you can before the peas hold together, sow some turnip seed, and earth up the peas one side. If when you cut your peas you do not find a plant of turnips, plough shallow and sow again. On warm dry soils the peas should be planted about one sack to the acre, as soon after Christmas as the land will work, but on cold wet soils the land must be made light with frequent ploughings; and if the season should be wet and cold defer the planting until April or May. You can then plant them where swedes have been fed off, and intended for sheep feed to be fed off again for wheat; you put in your peas then about three bushels per acre, if the land is good. If you want it for feed there it is, if not let them remain for harvest. When peas are grown on land intended for turnips you should plant ■ the dwarf sorts, Early Mays, Sutton's Early Champion, or Early Warwicks, or any dwarf hog pea. Half of the pea crops that fail are those that are not planted early enough on hot dry land, and too early on that which is wet and cold. The white peas produce the best haulm, and when it is turning off yellow the peas should be cut, put in small heaps, and turned and dried until all that was green is turned brown or yellow. The place for harvesting the peas is in a barn if you have one, for if a thunder storm should come it will run half-way through your stack, it will never get dry, and if you attempt to take off that which is wet you will waste more peas than you planted. When near a town or railway station it pays well to get them early in your turnip field, and sell them at so much per acre for podding, to be sent green for the market. Men, women, and boys gathering, begin at one corner, get your hurdles, then your sheep feed off one drift, and into turnips, ploughed once and very shallow, the land we presume having been well manured the previous autumn. If you do not intend sowing turnips before the peas are off they will do best drilled at nine inches apart, they will then hold each other up, and two rows will not twist together. 56 Pigeons. — I recommend all farmers to keep pigeons ; they are no trouble, and the manure is very valuable. A proper and commodious cot should be erected, so as to keep the manure in the dry. The floor of the cot should be sprinkled over once a week with dry sand and elm saw dust, and there should be a large . carraway cake kept in the centre of the floor, that is to say, get a large lump of clay about the size of a gallon of bread, about two . lbs. of salt, and one lb. of carraway seeds, mix all well together, and place it in the middle of the floor of your pigeon-house. Ton will then keep your birds at home. The house should be a square brick building, about fourteen feet square and twenty feet in height, and with a stone tile square roof, brought to a point in the centre, where the entrance should be for the birds, and the inside should be quite light, and all that there is to come from the top. The inside walls should be white-washed every winter ; the holes in the cot should be one foot by fourteen inches. There need not be any within six feet of the bottom. I consider the manure from a hundred pairs of pigeons to be worth, at least, ten pounds, and the young ones will fetch another ten pounds, annually. Pigs. — Some farmers contend it does not pay to keep pigs. I beg to state that they do yield a profitable return if properly managed. To breed pigs and keep them 'in a healthy state, roomy and well- ventilated styes should be provided, to face the south, and be well protected from the north and east winds, and yet admit the morning sun as much as possible. To breed pigs to advantage with regard to profit, they should have access to a small paddock or pasture of some sort for the sows to run in, and also should be close to the styes for the young ones to run in as soon as they are old enough to run at all. The styes should be well cleaned out before farrowing time, and when dry and sweet to be littered up with a moderate quantity of short wheat straw, and the sow shut in a week before her time is up. Some sows are apt to lie on their pigs and kill them ; when that is the case there should be a stye or two with strong poles fixed round the sides, six inches apart, and over the floor at the same distance ; the young pigs can then shift about out of harm's way. When they are about three weeks old they may be re- moved and allowed free access to the paddock. Always breed a good sort, better than anyone else if you can, so as to ensure a quick sale ; or make pork with whey or skimmed milk and a little meal, and get them off as quickly as you can. Therefore it will always pay to keep them well. As soon as they are weaned the sows may be 57 turned out in a loose yard with a run to the paddock, taking care at first they do not get hoven, one hour the first day, two the next, and so on, until they remain out all day; and a little wash of some sort mornings and evenings will be all they require. All refuse from the garden should be taken to the yard, and if the grass is short in the paddock you can send a boy or woman to cut hog- weeds, sow-thistles, &c, and bring in at noon and night. In the winter mangold, swedes, and a little wash, will do very well. Allow three or four of the first litter to run all the summer with the sows, to shut up in October and fatten for the house. If they run until the following year your bacon will be all the better, in the proportion as beef is better than veal. Hogs to be fattened for the sake of the manure (for there is very little profit in any other way), should be shut up about the middle of August. If you fatten one hundred hogs fix on some suitable place for the yard, where you think your manure will be required, as near as can be, every year. The yard should be thirty yards in width and twenty-five in length, and shed twenty feet in width the longest side of the yard, and face the south; the east side to be sheltered by a wall of stubble or straw, or thorn bavins tied "straight and at both ends. Dig a trench, put them in about six inches, close together and fasten to the rails, and ram the earth well in at the bottom. The yard should be divided down the middle with strong oak palings, and high, enough, for the manure will be three or four feet thick by the time your pigs are fat, and you must not move it until they are gone. At the lower south-east corner there should be a lock-up house for the meal, the door to open outside the yard, not to disturb the pigs. On the south side, inside of the yard, and at either side of the division, you should place in each yard three large tubs, about two feet six inches in diameter, and deep enough ' to hold about eighty gallons each, to mix up their food in; they should be let into the soil a little to keep them firm. At either end of the shed there should be a large window or door to open and shut, for ventilation in hot weather. Outside the yard, and opposite the hog tubs, there ought to be a pond if you have no pump, and if there is a pump, and your water is hard, it should be pumped into a tank a day or two previous to its being used. Pond water is always best. All being ready, get in your hogs as near together as you can, or they may perhaps fight; there is often one in a large quantity that they take a dislike to, he must then be removed or they will surely kill him. Have them rung before you 58 put them in the yard. When you have fifty-one or two put them in one of the yards, get the others as soon as you can ; they should be a twelvemonth old or more. For the first fortnight blow them out well with brewers' grains and offal corn ground into meal, such as thin foreign oats, barley, and damaged wheat. Do not buy any bran or pollard, it is the dearest stuff you can buy. After the first two or three weeks continue to improve the food by degrees, until you give them good barley, two sacks; good dry peas, one; and have the two ground together with one bushel of linseed, if not too dear, to commence with one peck. The troughs to be placed about the yard equi-distant from each other, and moved every other day; the food to be mixed to a proper consistency, just to run along the trough when put in; to be fed at six o'clock in the morning by two people as quickly as possible. Give them enough, not more than will be eaten by noon; you cannot be too quick. After you have fed them get meal and water, and mix up more food for the afternoon. Well stir and break every clod. Now get straw and litter all over the yard, shed and all, every day; it must all be done within the half-hour, and right away from the place. In the afternoon (be always regular to the minute), at four o'clock, feed again and mix up for the morning as quickly as possible. There is also another advantage in having two people, one gets a bucket full and runs to the farther trough, and the other puts some in the nearest; by so doing you divide the pigs, and consequently there is not so much waste. Push them on as fast as can, keep account of the cost, ask enough to cover that, and as much more as you can, and sell at home if possible by hand, and not by weight, unless your pigs have been a long time fattening and waiting for the trade to improve, and then I should kill and weigh at home, it will not cost much to erect a place for that purpose, and you can then draw away without any trouble or danger. The dairy farmer especially should breed as many pigs as he can, and make pork all the year round. Watch the opportunity and buy good dry barley enough to last until next season ; young pigs require it fresh. With skimmed milk, butter milk, and whey, a little meal will suffice; every cow ought to make three pounds worth of pork in a year, and my conviction is, it can be done. Poles, and pointed oak piles. — Always keep a stock ready for stopping gaps in the fences. 59 Pollard, Bean, or Millebs' Babe. — What they call fine pollard is generally bran ground over again. You should always keep a little fresh bran for mashes, poultices, &c, but not to be always buying offal from the" mill ; it is the dearest thing you can buy. Sometimes in the summer, when a miller is over-done, you can buy a few tons at your own price, and it will do well for poor hogs for the first week or two, mixed with other offal. Ponds. — All farms should be well provided with ponds ; they are easily made, no matter what the soil, or how high the situation. Pis on your site, mark out your pond; a perfect circle is the easiest to make ; sink the pond sloping to an angle of about forty degrees, get some good clay, free from stones, five or six quarters of lime and slake a portion of it and keep it all in the dry. When your pond is sunk it ought to be as true and as perfect as a basin, only, of course, more sloping ; get ready some large wooden beetles with handles in an oblique direction, get a lump of clay in the middle of the pond at bottom, sprinkle it with slaked lime, boy with the watering-pot, and men to beat it well together, and it must be of a proper consistency to prevent the men sinking into it. Tou will then continue with lumps of clay about the size of a gallon of bread at a time, well beaten up with a little lime and water ; keep working round and round, taking care to beat it all well together, not forgetting the lime and water when you join. It should be all done over in like manner about ten inches thick ; it must not be done in frosty weather, and if very hot and dry, keep covering up with straw until the puddling is complete. The pond must then be well thatched with a very thin coat of good wheat straw, and no pegs or sticks of any kind to be used. Begin in the bottom and finish at the top. Give then a thin coat of loose earth or gravel over the straw, beginning at the bottom and finishing at top. Get now some fine rubble chalk and cover all about six inches thick ; begin at the bottom and work backwards to the top, and for two yards round the outside of the pond, leaving it thicker as you get away from the pond. Take care there is no tree near, or hedge of any kind. There should be posts, and one rail round the pond, about two yards from the edge, to allow sheep to go under, but not large cattle, or they will tread it in holes. Pigs must not be allowed to dig. October and November is the best season for pond making; when the fields are covered with snow, cart as much snow as you can to the pond, and build as high as yon like. 60 Ton must never expect to see your pond quite full, and it is not at all likely you 'will ever see it empty, if the work is properly per- formed, which ought to be as true and as neat as brick-work. If in a public place the pond should be pitched. Potato. — AH farmers should grow a few acres of potatoes, especially if their land is near a large town or station, and the soil of a sandy nature, for good swedes can be grown between the rows, if you plant that sort which grows but little haulm. The soil, to be well manured with fat hog manure in the autumn, and ploughed deep, cross-ploughed in the spring as soon as dry enough at the same depth ; work it down well and pulverize thoroughly. Then cross-plough again about four inches deep, well pulverize, and get it as fine as possible. Plough one furrow two inches deep and put in the sets of potatoes. Each set must have three eyes, which should have been prepared a fortnight before, and sprinkled with sand; put in the sets eight inches apart. You then plough three more furrows, the first the same depth as before, viz. : — two inches, the second four inches, and the third furrow two inches, which will leave the potatoes two feet apart between the rows ; then lay in your sets as before. About the first week in March is the best time to plant potatoes in the field. Keep them well hoed; when high enough earth them up. Then get ready some goose dung, pigeons' dung well driedand pulverized, and a little superphosphate, and with a one-horse one-row manure-drill put in your swedes between the rows of potatoes; or you may plant the potatoes nearer together and drill swedes in every second space; when the potatoes are high enough a man with a toothless rake should lay two rows together, which will leave the swedes free. Single them out as soon as large enough, keep them clean, and you will grow as good swedes as you would if no potatoes had been planted- The manure should be let in about two inches, and the seed in a separate pipe buried only half an inch. Potatoes for seed next year should not be allowed to remain in the ground until they are quite ripe; it renders them more liable to disease. The seed should also be changed from one description of land to another. When the blossom makes its appearance it must be pinched off ; one woman will crop the blossoms from an acre in a day. Potatoes should not be pared; the sugar and starch is near the outside, there is very little in the middle. The water in which they have been boiled is an excellent remedy for tender feet. 61 Poultry. — Keep enough for the house, and that will be sufficient, Unless you live near a large town, where you can get a high price. Goose and duck manure is very valuable for swedes. Pbuning. — Every man who has a house and garden ought to know how to prune his own fruit trees. If any limbs are broken, cut neatly off, it will heal much quicker; remove all unnecessary wood, and shorten the young wood back to about the third bud, excepting gooseberries, and black currants, and in those the young wood must be left its whole length or nearly so; and an orchard much in the same manner. (Easpberries to be kept about five feet high.) Take care that no one branch touches another, and if any tree grows too fast take it up, trim its roots and plant it again. Pulping. — A very silly practice, and ought never to be adopted. Bentall's grater is the proper implement for the purpose. The ragged edges of the grated roots naturally imbibe the juice of the roots, whereas on the contrary the smeary weight of the pulped roots drives all the juice away, and it takes ten times the labour to mix with chaff, owing to its great tenacity, while the grated roots are equally divisible as grain of any sort, and very easily mixed with chaff, or meal of all kinds. Q. Quabbels. — Avoid all quarrelling with your men. If there is an occasion to find fault, tell them quietly it ought not to be so, or it must be so and so. If a man is impudent or does not pay atten- tion to what you say, do not say any more, but discharge bim at once and let him rest a day or two. Quick Sets.— (See "Trees.") Quince. — If you wish to get the best sort of pears you should get plenty of Quince stocks on which to graft, or you may have to pay a guinea apiece when you buy. E. Rabbits should be kept in a warren or in a walled-in pasture for that purpose. Never take a farm unless you have the right to destroy them. Some farmers have liberty to shoot, but that does not imply that you are to have the whole and sole right, and you cannot thoroughly destroy them unless you have, and are allowed to 62 go into the woods. Some people take farms subject to damages being- paid; but they cannot be valued, and any respectable valuer would be ashamed to send in his valuation for damages done by rabbits. The extent of damage to some farms where there is much wood, is at least one pound per acre every year. One rabbit will do ten shillings worth of damage in one year, and is only worth ten-pence for one dinner for one man. It then takes four pennyworth of something else to cook it, leaving the rabbit to be worth only six- pence, clearly showing that it does twenty times as much mischief as it is worth. The farmer gets short of corn, short of hay, short of straw, short of manure, and short of condition in his soil; and consequently short of money and short existence in the farm, and unless he has the constitution of a lion it will most assuredly shorten his days. Backs in Stables. — -If they, are not perpendicular put them so, or your horses will go blind, especially those that have blue eyes. Rats. — Keep ferrets and keep hunting them about, and allow one or two to remain loose and go where they like for a few days; also keep plenty of cats and well feed them. It is no use having rat-catchers, or paying your men so much a rat; you will always have plenty if you do. Whenever you see a rat's hole pour in some gas tar and fill the hole np with mortar mixed up with broken glass. Rape is a very profitable crop for sheep feed; it is very nutri- tious, and very forcing. It is also a famous thing for lambs, sown with turnips; and the land is also better for wheat than after turnips alone. It is also very valuable to sow late in the summer, drilled in, and not singled out, to remain until spring for feed. The soil cannot be too rich for rape. In some warm counties you can drill in after wheat, in the spring single them out about three inches apart, and save for seed. There should always be some sown among the spring tares, about two quarts to the acre, also hoe some in the beans the last time of hoeing. If t the weather should be stormy just as you commence reaping, on warm soils, or a few days before, a man may walk up the wheat and sow several acres without, doing any damage to the wheat; taking care not to walk back at ,any time in the same track. Turnips also may be sown in the same way, with much greater success than if you wait until , the wheat is carried, and then plough the land. If the wheat is thin so much the better for the seeds, and if it is thick, it will do 63 very well, providing it stands up. Where wheat is subject to blight, rape seed may be grown with more certainty of profit. Reaping. — If you have many acres of wheat to cut begin quite as soon as it is ready, for more reasons than one. In the first place, if you do not begin before it is quite fit the remainder will get too ripe, and a great deal will be lost. In the next place, when ripe, or too ripe before you commence, you will have to pay a much higher price, for the men know better than you do what rules the price of labour, and will most assuredly hold oat for price. It is their constant thought, and it is their harvest, at least they consider it as such, as much so as yours. Therefore always begin soon enough to ensure plenty of hands, and if you think it is scarcely ripe enough to continue, find another job of some sort for a day or two. Order them to always bring their hoes, for perhaps you may require their services to hoe turnips; when it is wet or dewy mornings you can then put them to hoeing for a few days. In light, hilly counties, wheat may be cut with the scythe or mowing machine, but in all cases it must be tied up in small sheaves, and no more than ten in a shock. If any farmer has a small quantity, and is anxious to preserve it from the wet, in stormy weather he should get a lot of stakes, fasten one into the ground, stand three or six sheaves round it, and one large sheaf turned upside down, pull it over the stake, and its ears being in that form will not hold the wet, and will also keep the other three or more dry. Wheat, if not mown, should always be bagged, it is much the best and neatest way, especially if you sell straw; you will get a much greater weight, for the nearer the ground the heavier the straw, and the corn is got up much cleaner. Some people have an idea that it will not do in wet cold counties — that if it gets wet it will never be dry again. It never gets so wet however unless it rains for a week; the sheaves are brought more to a pointand therefore there cannot be so much space for the rain to fall on. Beans, on the contrary, should be reaped; they ought not, to be cut before the pods are turned black, if you wish to have a bright sample of uniform colour throughout, and if the harvest is late, and you choose to cut them before the pods turn black, they should be tied up in a large sheaf close to the top,, give the top a twist and turn it down, and stand them up one in each place with the butts spread out; the sun and wind will then soon ripen all the pods. If the men are allowed to bag or fag the beans, they will beat out as many as you planted, if they are ripe,, and the sun shines hot. 64 Rice, when it can be bought at a low price, may be used to great advantage for young pigs, and also for fattening large hogs, mi x ed with other grain, and ground into meal. Ricks, ok Stacks. — (See "Wheat.") Roads. — Look well to your roads, and especially ,the gate roads, for the sake of your horse flesh, which is the most expensive of all meat to buy. If you have a gate road in any of your fields that is in a very bad state, move it to another place where the ground is drier; two men will do it in a day and bank up the old. Take the turf off a little way from the new gate road not later than February, cut it in pieces, and tread it in on the old way, about one foot apart, throw in a few hay seeds from the hay-loft and all is complete. Keep all your other roads in a convex form. If you wish to make a new road, and you live in a clay country and far away from any stones or gravel, form out your road of proper width, dig a ditch on either side, get long black thorn bushes with the butts even, lay butt to butt, in the centre of your road, chop off the tops evenly and straight, and throw them on the butts, lay a turf on the tops of the bushes at the outside to keep them in place, and then burn the rest of your ditch into ballast, and there is your road. Put the fine ballast on first, and the coarse upon the top, and then well roll up one side, down the other, and then up the middle, and so follow on with three horses, and not allow one to follow in the steps of another, or they will tread it in holes. Keep the ruts filled in and see that the carters go in a different place. The road once made, bring materials at leisure to repair. Rooks. — Encourage all the rooks you can, and by no chance whatever allow your carters (as is too often the case) to trap them behind the plough. By catching one single rook you drive the others away, which perhaps will be twenty pounds loss. You can soon get up a rookery if you have any trees. Get from ten to twenty old nests and place them up in the trees as soon after Christmas as you can, and build a wheat rick underneath and let it remain there until the next harvest, then put another; follow that plan for three years, and you will soon get up a rookery. The rooks will probably rob you of a sack or two of wheat, but you must not mind that. Rotation of Ceops. — (See "Wheat.") 65 s. Sacks. — All farmers should keep a sufficient quantity of sacks, and when bundles come home they should be counted, mended, doubled up once and stacked in fifties; rats and mice seldom attack them when served in this manner. Never hire any on your own responsibility, it is a difficult sum to reckon, and worse than com- pound interest. If you are short of sacks, and do not wish to purchase, make arrangements with the buyer to send so many. Salt is very valuable as a manure on hot soils, and also a wholesome condiment for cattle of all sorts, and sheep; and all live stock should have free access to it. If you have hay that is damaged by too much rain, sprinkle salt over every layer of hay when you make your rick. Lumps of rock salt should be kept in different places for horses, cattle, and sheep to lick when they choose, but it must be kept in the dry. When salt is used for hay-ricks, or for curing bacon, it should be always dry and finely powdered. Salt should always be used for mangold on hot soils, and sown broadcast. Salting Cheese must be carefully attended to at proper intervals when in the press, which process also must be thoroughly carried out. "We of course presume there is sufficient pressure to press out all the whey, or the cheese cannot be good. In addition to that, the pressing must not be hurried, or they will heave about and get full of eyes. There are also other causes which make the cheese get out of shape, one as before stated, viz.: — new veils; another cause is, milking the cows when they are hot from being over-driven; they should always be allowed to get cool before they are milked. To accomplish that object effectually the milking yard should be shaded with trees, for the heat is often very intense from four o'clock until six or seven o'clock in the afternoon. There is also another cause. When cheese is made only once a day it is generally done in the morning. We occasionally have a sharp frost and a cold night. The over-night's milk is usually scalded or nearly boiled to mix with the morning's milk, and the sudden change proves injurious to the cheese. A portion of the morning's milk should be similarly treated instead, which will prevent the injury complained of. Setting of the curd is also an important feature ; it must not be too hot nor too cold, from 84 to 90 degrees of heat, and a period of two hours, are the fittest for 66 coagulation; but a great deal will depend on the season, climate, pasture, &c. Doors and windows should be kept shut in cold weather whilst coagulation is going on. Some dairy farmers say they cannot make good loaf cheese; the simple reason is this, the pressure being confined to a more limited space, the pressing department is not effectually accomplished; the vats or moulds require to be filled much fuller and the obstacle will be obviated. When the salting process is completed the cheeses will be taken to the loft, they should then be washed over twice a week with fresh sweet whey for the first month, and wiped dry, which will produce the fine rich coat so much desired by the trade. Santoin is a most valuable plant for every farmer who is possessed of a flock of sheep. Light chalk hills, and sandy and gravelly hills, that will scarcely pay for tillage, will generally grow the best sanfoin. The land intended for sanfoin should be ploughed deep in the autumn; in March plough very shallow and sow oats or barley, not too thickly, and drill in your sanfoin seed before the corn comes up, or directly after the corn is in. It makes good hay and is equally good at three years old. All young lambs should have some once a day, and also in a green state in the spring and summer ; it prevents the scour. The best top-dressing is gypsum. In saving for seed you must not wait until the tops are ripe or you will lose all the best seed. It should be turned in the dew of the morning, pull the tops over every time, and carry in the night in long narrow stacks. It should be cut for hay just before it comes into blossom, not wait until the whole field is in one mass of red, like so many regiments of infantry. Scots. — Black scot oxen may sometimes be advantageously fattened in the fattening stalls. Put two in each box, and tan underneath. They make the most delicate beef, and it is more suitable for summer consumption. Seeds. — All small seeds should be tested in pots before they are sown in the field. Every farmer should have a hot-bed of some sort, if only for that purpose, and your manure is then all ready for the garden the next winter. The dealers are very expert in freshening up all the heavy sorts of seeds with oil if ever so old and musty, and mixing it with new seed. Always test them yourself. Count out so many seeds and stick in a ticket with the number. I should recommend farmers to grow their own swede, turnip, and 67 mangold seed, if they have any odd corner of land, For all other seeds that you buy go to some respectable firm, such as Mr. Lovegrove, Beading, Berks, for all seeds required for arable land; and Messrs. Sutton and Sons, of the same place, for all seeds required for pasture land; and more particularly for their renovating mixture for restoring old, neglected, and ■worn-out pastures. In sowing all small seeds be careful and not bury them too deep, and see that they rest on a firm seed bed. Selling. — When you are selling anything, if you are obliged to sell, never show it, or the buyer will surely take advantage. When selling cattle or sheep at fairs or market, great attention is required, the fluctuations in the trade are often very rapid, and the farmer is not aware of it until too late. The seller should follow his flock of sheep or herd of cattle into the fair or market, and if he has an observant eye he will soon see how the trade is likely to turn. If your sheep or cattle appear to attract the notice of many, one of two things is certain, viz. : — the trade will be good, or rest assured you have something superior in quality. When such is the case ask enough and do not be in a hurry to sell. If on the contrary your sheep or cattle do not command any respect, sell as soon as you can. Servants. — Farm servants should be treated with great firmness and kindness. Never swear at them, but stare if you like, for after the word of command is given the eye alone should rule. Well settle in your mind what to place your men at over night, evening being the hest time to walk in the fields to meditate and make the necessary arrangements for the morrow. When you give orders for such a man to go there, and another somewhere else, and so on, do not allow your mind to change; think it well over first. It is a growing evil, and by-and-bye when you order a man to go and do such and such things, it will be, "Hadn't Thomas better go, sir?" Some farmers will not allow their servants to keep a pig. I consider that man to be devoid of all feeling. What is the poor man to do with his wash and garden refuse? Besides, what do you gain by it? If your servant is inclined to be dishonest it is a greater temptation to be so, if he is not allowed to keep a pig. He can very easily transfer the corn, if he takes any, in exchange for bacon to some more distant neighbour ; there are always plenty to receive. If you have a regular set of men all the year round, and sufficient to keep the f2 08 work in good place, I should not recommend much, piece work, for if you do they will tear on and earn a lot of money; it must all come from your pocket, and they will soon want another job. Some works they are apt to shift; there are others that they cannot, such as reaping, mowing, hoeing, paring and burning, hedging and ditching, and spreading manure without being detected. Every farmer should rent cottages enough and let them to his labourers, if possible; pay every fortnight and keep back the rent, you will then have them in good command. If you have not cottages, and are obliged to get them as best you can, then keep plenty in the summer, pay them well, get the work forward, and keep as few in the winter as possible. All the servants you hire for the year mind and hire at Michaelmas, you will get them much cheaper; the servant, for fear of not getting a place, and winter staring him in the face, will be anxious to accept your offer. At Lady-day he will hold out for price — " I shan't take that ; there's plenty of work coming on." See that your servants go regularly to church, it is a master's duty, or they will be planning some mischief, tearing hedges, &c. ; they find out the track of the hare, then follows poaching, taking eggs, and handsful of corn. Some farmers allow their men one hour in the day, and to go home at five o'clock. When the labourers live near that may answer very well, but when they come from a long distance I do not consider it a good plan to be generally adopted, for there is not sufficient time to walk to and fro. Sheds foe Cattle. — All sheds for store cattle should be at . least sixteen feet in width, all sharp angles to be taken ofi the posts and pillars, and all braces to be kept high enough to be out of the way of the hips of your cattle; one hip down, thirty shillings down. Sheep should always be kept in one uniform, strong, and healthy condition, if you wish to keep them free from disease; plenty of air, exercise, good food, water, and salt. I have known flocks of sheep almost ruined in three or four days for want of water. There are a great many sorts of sheep, and it would be almost impossible to say what or which sort this or that farmer should keep, unless you knew what description of land he occupied. Suffice it to say, he ought not to keep kind Sussex downs or any of the long-woolled sorts if his land is wet and cold. In cold climates the Hampshire down, or a cross with the Wiltshire, will 69 be as good sort as any. On all moderately dry soils I consider the first cross between trie Hampshire down ewe and the Cotswold ram to be the most profitable sort to breed. Some farmers will say it cannot be done. A man cannot fly, we all well know, unless he had wings, but he can get on his horse and select one or two hundred down ewe lambs once a year, according to the size of his flock. He will then keep up his first cross flock, and have his old ewes to sell out every year, and all his lambs, if the soil is suitable; the ewes can be fattened off by Christmas, and lambs or tegs to be kept until March, then begin shearing and send off as fast as they are ready. Tou will then get the last pull and all the wool. Some people argue that it will not pay to fatten sheep unless your land is poor. I consider if the land is in a cold, wet, and poor state, you cannot fatten sheep at all. If you have a small, warm, dry farm, it may pay best to fatten the ewes and lambs off together ; you cannot make good fat lambs unless you fatten the ewes at the same time. It does not pay in a general way to breed rams for show or sale, unless you are fortunate enough to possess an extraordinary sort, and then it is not all profit; they run over everything, and almost everything else is forgotten. In keeping a regular flock of down ewes, viz. : — saving your own ewe lambs and selling off so many old ewes every year, be careful in selecting your ewes to start with; buy them big enough at first, they will soon get smaller or larger according to the manner in which you keep them. Choose a fine open countenance, head not too large nor too long or short, full eye, long thin ear with plenty of wool upon it, and good width between and some wool, handsome Roman nose (not with nostrils turning up like a fallow deer), good neck, not too long, getting gradually wider from the head and up level with the shoulder points ; back to commence on a level with the shoulder point and continue in a straight line to the tail, the tail being the only part of the back that should at all droop; your leg of mutton then will be of the proper shape if cut right. The legs should be of good size and stand perfectly perpendicular, a good distance between hind and fore logs, and room enough to put your hat between the fore or hind legs. Shoulder points must not be too wide apart or you will find a hollow place behind them. As you stand facing the animal the shoulders should appear to be falling from the tip in about an angle of 22£ degrees, and the leg from the lower end of the shoulder to be perfectly straight. The ribs should spring out from the chine horizontally; the last rib, next 70 to the hip, to project a little more than the others, and the space between it and the hip bone to be as narrow as possible. The rump should be long and broad, and there are four points which must be attended to in all sheep and cattle, viz. -.—that the two hip bones, the chine in a line between, and the end of the chine at the setting on of the tail, should be all perfectly level, so that if a level table were turned upside down on these four points, it should touch them all at the same time; and no bullock or sheep can be perfect without. The body should be round, not flat, or it will get tub-bellied, and so will everything else when it begins to put on flesh. The breast should project forward between the fore legs, so that when the animal's head and neck are cut off, the remainder, viz. j — the carcass, with the exception of the legs, will be as square as a door on its side, of course longer one way than the other. Wool is a very essential article with the farmer, therefore proper attention must also be paid to this department. The finer the wool the finer the meat, and of course such meat will make the highest price in the London market. But the farmer must also look to weight in the fleece as well as fineness in the pile. The sheep should be covered with a good firm coat of wool all over the body down to the knees and hocks, and between the ears, to keep off the fly. I do not dislike to see a small tuft on the forehead; the belly should also be well covered. If a lamb is yellow under the skin he ought not to be saved for a ram; which you may easily detect when his tail is cut off, by flaying the under part. If any of your ewes are defective in any one of these points you must take care to select or hire rams that are super-abundant in those points in which the ewes are defective. IVom sixty to eighty ewes will be enough for one ram, but if ram lambs are used then from forty to fifty will be the quantity. The rams should be ruddled on the breast every morning and night; and every morning as the ewes are served and marked they should be taken away from the flock and kept by themselves for one month, one or two rams to be kept with them according to quantity. After the first month the rams should be marked blue or black. The most healthy season for ewes to lamb is as soon after Christmas as you can get them. The early lambs will always be the best; February is generally an unhealthy month. The ewes should^ be in a thriving condition for about one month before you put them to the ram; they will go more together and will throw more twins. A ram that was a twin will also get more twins than one which was not. After the ewes are served they 71 should not be kept in a thriving condition or they will turn again. After the eighth or ninth week you may continue to improve them ; after the tenth week the shepherd should never leave them, for about that time the danger begins. The ewes should never be frightened by any chance whatever; no guns to be fired, no horses to be galloped, nor any strange dogs of any sort to be allowed to go near them. Of course you cannot avoid a pack of hounds coming near sometimes, but the shepherd should be possessed of a quick ear, as well as a quick eye, and when hounds are coming near he ought to get his flock quietly away and drive them into a round clump. AH ewes should have plenty of exercise until they commence lambing (and also the rams for a month before they are put to the ewes), and about three weeks before the time is up check the condition a little, just enough to alter the state of the blood. About a week before lambing get ready your pen, which should be in a high situation, I do not mean on the top of a high hill nor on the top of a mountain, but the higher the situation, in reason, the better; for all sheep will naturally fall back to the rising ground at night. Have plenty of straw ready for shelter and littering up, and always plenty of water. To assist the after- birth it is sometimes necessary to give a little gruel, half a pint of milk, and oatmeal enough boiled (mix cold or it will be full of lumps), and keep stirring till it boils, then add half a pint of good ale, two ounces of treacle and a little ginger, and see that she has it milk- warm yourself; I have seen some shepherds drink it half themselves. About ten times the quantity should be given to a cow if she requires any after calving. Do not keep the lambs in too long, get them out in the field as soon as possible, with plenty of shelter in a fold at night, and with a stack of straw at each corner always ready. Sear off their tails when about three weeks or a month old, not wait as some people will until they are two months old, and then cut off just enough for a dinner or so, with an idea of saving the butcher's bill; for your lambs will be at least one shilling per head the worse, and four hundrefl lambs would be four hundred shillings, viz. : — twenty pounds, which will pay the butcher's bill for twelve months in any ordinary family. About a fortnight after the ram lambs may be castrated. Manage for your sheep feed to be always in close contiguity, to save moving hurdles and also prevent the scour in your lambs, which will most assuredly be the case if you finish a piece of swedes in one corner of the field; the lambs are there perhaps for a week or ten days 72 without a mouthful of any green food, they are then driven to the other end of the farm to an abundance of food, and put on it when they are hot, for they will be so, drive tbem as carefully as you will. Some farmers have such an idea of patchwork farming you cannot beat them out of it. Adjoining your swedes there should be a few acres of rye, on which a few swedes should be carted; then follows a few acres of Italian rye grass, on which some mangold should be carted, then a few acres of trifolium, next comes a strip of vetches and winter barley, a strip of vetches and winter oats, then tares and winter beans sown mixed, two bushels of tares and five pecks of winter beans. Toil will then have spring sown tares, and rape fit next, and forward white turnips and rape to follow, without hindering your teams to hurdle cart. Place t your sanfoin in such a position as to be accessible from any point' at which you may happen to be feeding, for all young lamffis require two or three or more sorts of food in a day. If you int/nd to sell them off as lambs in the autumn, push tbem on as fast as you can, but if you intend keeping them round for tegs until the following spring, keep them in good fair condition and let that suffice, or you will not make the most of your food. In November begin to push on your lambs. If you have plenty of roots cut them, and give a little corn once a day; begin with little at first. Oil cake is the safesf and best, but it is often too dear. One part linseed and two parts coarse bran ground together, with a few split lentils and good sweet malt dust made damp with the watering-pot, is one of the most economical sorts of food you can give. Old beans or peas can be sometimes used with advantage, and will do more good to the land when it is cold and wet. Tou may increase the quantity of corn until you get to one pound of good corn or cake per head, but not beyond. On warm soils swedes and turnips may be planted when the spring green crops above-mentioned are fed off. As soon as your tegs are ripe and the trade good, sell at home if you can; if not, draw out twenty, thirty, or forty, ev ery week, shear them and send them to market. When the weather is stormy and cold the stock ewes should be shorn a few at a time, they will then help to keep each other warm. On all cold wet farms we presume it is good bean land, such being the case every farmer should grow some, more or less, and the stock should have a few old beans once a day, all the year round, especially the young ewes; if your nook is in too high condition, about a fortnight before lambing they may be taken off 73 until a week after lambing. It will prevent a multitude of diseases, and more particularly the rot. Sheep Folding. — Steep should not be allowed to travel on fallows where the soil is heavy and cold after they have been worked down the last time for wheat ; in wet weather they prevent the seeds of weeds from vegetating, and also poach the soil, and then the following spring your wheat will turn yellow, and the oonsequence will be short ears and a short crop. On all hot, sandy, and gravelly soils it is a good plan to fold the sheep on the newly sown wheat directly it is finished, and continue until it begins to come up ; it will prevent the ravages of the wireworm, and is the best manure you can apply. Shepherd. — Always look out and see if your shepherd is faithful to his flock, and that he takes an interest therein, or he will be of very little use. A shepherd that is always looking at his watch requires much watching by the master. A good shepherd is a valuable servant where large flocks of sheep are kept. He ought to be paid moderately well, and what you give him extra, give so much for every lamb he rears up, and give him enough to make it his delight. Never allow a shepherd to do any sort of piece-work if he has any sheep to attend, for if his body is with them his brains are not ; fifty and even a hundred pounds are soon lost, and very often for want of a good shepherd. He must not keep a pig, unless his wife will take the entire management, for his thoughts will surely be there sometimes. He should be as watchful over his flock as a mother over her first-born child. A shepherd should not be allowed to sell either lambs, or lamb skins, it is the straight road of temptation to err. There are various . ways to make a shepherd comfortable without so many perquisites. A farmer should always keep the shepherd's dog ; a great many shepherds will keep them on oil-cake alone, when they have the opportunity. Soils are so extremely varied that certain plants will thrive and do well in some, when at the same time they will scarcely live in others, and there are farms which have at least five or six different sorts ; such a farm should be refused unless the rent is very low. All dark coloured soils acquire a higher temperature than those that are pale coloured. A stiff pale coloured clay is heated with great difficulty, and retains the heat only for a 74 short time. A chalk soil is also heated with difficultly, but, containing less moisture, retains the heat for a greater length of time. In washing barren soils they will be found to contain too much salt, iron, or some acid matter, and it may be improved by an application of quick lime. Calcareous soils, viz. : — fine rubble chalky soils partaking of the nature of mutton suet, will not adhere together, and are totally devoid of all tenacity; to make it more tenacious, clay and sand must be applied, or it will be of little use to apply manure. Hot sands or gravels may also be rendered more productive by an application of clay and peat, or chalk. Cold clay soils must be chalked, and also sand or fine gravel applied, if you wish to grow fine crops. When chalk is applied it should be done from October to the latter end of February; if done later it will become hardened by the sun, and will never pulverize in a proper uniform manner. All soils that soon dry up after a heavy rain are sure to be hot enough in the summer, and perhapa too hot. A forest of way thistles indicates a good rich soil, neglected, and requiring to be drained and cultivated. A black, brown, or red loam, on a chalk or stone brash subsoil, is about the best description of land to occupy; if there are any large flints in the soil it is none the worse (only do not pick them off), if they are rough and ragged; but do not choose that soil on which you find smooth round flints, or the shape of kidneys; such land ought to be avoided, and is only fit to grow larch or beech. Never choose a clay pasture farm, where the grass in the winter season is about the colour of a fox. If you cannot or do not know how a. farm looks all the year round, you had better inquire of some person in the neighbourhood. Some clay pastures or meadows may be very much improved if you can take the land worth the money, viz. : — from five to ten shillings per acre. Pare and burn, make as many ashes as you can, rafter up in the autumn hot too deep, in fact almost as shallow as possible; in March sow white Tartar oats, and sow down with grass seeds again. No landlord could object to such a plan if properly done, and he may probably allow a pasture or two to remain arable if you wish it. Follow on all over the farm and you will be well rewarded for your trouble, the crop of oats will pay all expenses and also make up the immense profit which may have accrued from the land had it remained in its former state. Arable land, if all clay, may be improved in the same manner; sow some coarse sort of seeds just to get a sward, then pare and burn; but the great secret is, not to 75 plough too deep afterwards, or your labour will be all in vain, for the ashes will keep working downwards. Some farmers in clay districts entertain an idea that the ridges should not be more than six feet in width, but that is a mistake altogether. If the land is properly drained twelve feet is the proper width, your three large harrows will then take one land at seed time, then if it is too wet for the cattle to walk on the ridge, have a long pole with two oxen in one furrow and two in the other. It is more trouble, I will allow, to plough a land four yards wide than it is one of two yards in width, the great difficulty is in keeping up the fourth and fifth furrows. I consider the six feet land to be very awkward for folding sheep, it takes off quite five shillings an acre in the appearance of the land, and is very inconvenient to plough or ride across. We all well know there is much good to be done by mixing soils if you know how it is to be accomplished. A farmer may amuse himself in the summer evenings, and acquire a great deal of useful knowledge, by mixing different soils together in pots and sowing therein the seed of the plants and roots he is in the habit of growing or which he intends to grow on his farm, both with and without different sorts of manure. There are certain soils which, put what quantity of manure on them you will, after two or three crops are grown, it will all be exhausted. But when a soil is rendered of the best possible constitution and texture, with regard to its earthy parts, it attracts a great deal of nourishment from the atmosphere, and a very little manure does a great deal of good and will last for a number of years. Therefore I advise all farmers to be careful where they pitch their tent. All expenses are pretty much alike, with the additional expense on poor soils of seeding the land. Then there remains the question of the bare rent, and the object of five or six shillings per acre ought not to stand in the way, but of course get good land as cheap as you can. The best land does not always fetch the highest price. I know a great deal of land, I may say thousands of acres, let at one pound per acre, and ten shillings per acre, better than some thousands of acres that I know are let at prices varying from thirty shillings to two pounds per acre, therefore be not deceived in a clean pleasant neighbourhood. The cheapest farms are almost invariably those that have "No road excepting on business" painted on the outside gate of the farm in large letters ; where the steward comes round only once a year, and kindly inquires if anything is wanting to be done, and does not trouble you with any further questions, Not 76 as some do, sneaking about and inquiring of the servants about the work of tbe farm — "Well, shepherd, nice lot of sheep, how long have you had those? where did your master buy them ? what did he give for them ? what did you say the gentleman's name was he bought them of? (the poor fellow never intended to say) ; and how many did you say there were? and how many did you say your master had all together? and any more anywhere else out at keep?" The poor fellow never intended to say that. He goes on a little farther; "Well, carter, nice weather for working the land, what are you sowing there?" "Barley, sir." "What did you say it was last year ?" The poor carter has not said yet what it was ; by-and-bye he says he believes it was wheat. " Oh ! barley after wheat." "Going to have many turnips this year, carter?" "Don't know, sir." "Where is your turnip field this year then, carter ?" " Don't know that neither, sir." He rides home and makes a memorandum. " Now then, Jack, puot urn along, we shan't finish be night else. I say, Jack, that ere fellow wanted to gnaw too much for I ; I woonder who a is, I haup a yeaunt our new steward." Always look upon such people wrfh suspicion, and beware, and likewise prepare. All arable lands must be carefully watched ; after a continuous drought, when rain comes, collect your forces and dash and smash away with all available strength, with rollers and harrows, commencing the attack on the most formidable wing of the enemy, viz.: — that portion of the field which is most cloddy. Sowing is the most important feature, and requires the greatest skill of all farming operations. Nearly every person can get land into condition if he chooses to put on a sufficient quantity of manure for that purpose, and which, in all cases, must be done before we can expect a continuous and steady profit to accrue from agricultural pursuits. Some people argue at great length on sowing ; they say it does not so much signify when seed is put in, as how it is done. I consider the great secret or art in sowing is where it is put ; what we want to do, is to grow full and heavy crops, and get them to stand up. To accomplish that object all sorts of grain and seed should be planted on and rest on a firm seed bed. Very few farmers are aware of the imperative necessity of so doing. When we ourselves go to bed we do not generally tumble the bed clothes all about and get in among them anyhow ; we first lie on a tolerably firm bed and then 77 cover ourselves comfortably over, and in like'manner should seeds of all sorts lie ; for example, wheat should lie as below : — mSKKL Fig. 1, small clods on the surface when finished off; fig. 2, about two inches thick of soil on the seed ; fig. 3, seed lying on the bottom of the furrow or firm ground ; fig. 4, from four to eight inches of cultivated soil, according to its nature and depth, having been previously fallowed, pulverized, and all seeds of weeds vegetated and destroyed, and consolidated ; fig. 5, subsoil, which, if hard and rocky, should be broken through now and then, to allow the rains to descend. The above-named plan I consider to be the proper way in which all grain seedsshould be deposited in the soil. The seed may sometimes be sown first, and then ploughed about two inches in depth, all harrows or drags to go as deep as the plough. Beans will not do so well ploughed in. Make one furrow about two inches in depth and then drop the beans three or four in a bunch, and one foot apart ; then plough two more furrows, and drop in again, which will leave your rows about sixteen inches apart. All the cattle should walk in the furrow at seed time. Wheat requires to go in rather heavily, viz.: — (not in the dust) as wet as you can well work on the soil. Some farmers have an idea that it cannot be put in too wet ; it will be all down and full of weeds (there ought not to be any to grow), and every- thing else that is bad. Then here lies the secret ; more than half 78 the farmers plough too deep at seed time, then, of course, it must be put in wet (the farmer waits for the rain, the rain comes, and it may rain for a month, at this season of the year ; and consequently the seed time is sometimes lost), or it will not stand up the following s umm er, and often down in grass. Many farmers will have it ploughed deeper than it has been all the summer previous, or perhaps deeper than it has been ploughed for years, especially if a young beginner happens to follow a man who has been rather unfortunate. " Oh !" he says, " he has never half ploughed his land" (it may be he has ploughed it too much), " I will fetch it up and see what I can do." He will very soon see what he has done ; he will be sure of a crop without sowing one, and he will see one of the finest crops of weeds he ever saw in his life, while from such treatment he can only expect half a crop of corn. What is the white blight that people talk so much about ? Why the plant becomes root-fallen, and for what reason ? Why because when wheat is sown after a pretended summer fallow, large clods are ploughed in at seed time (a perfect warren for all sorts of insects), which have been rolling about all the summer, instead of being pulverized, and each clod full of seeds of weeds, and when frost comes the clod slakes, up come the weeds, the earth sinks away from some of the plants, the plant lingers on, and eventually goes off in a decline or consumption. That is what I denominate white blight. All small seeds should also lie on a firm seed-bed, and be buried about half an inch, excepting light seeds such as rye grass, which should be a little deeper, and always sown first and alone. Barley the same as wheat, only it must be put in when the soil is quite dry and dusty, oats likewise the same, if a little wet it is of no consequence. Vetches or tares to stand through the winter are generally sown as soon as oats or wheat is off the laind, the soil then, of course, ought to be ploughed as deep as you intend to plough it the following year. If it is then well worked about with drags and harrows, and ploughed about three inches in depth, your tares will be all the better for the extra trouble and labour given. The ground should be left rough. Peas also require a firm seed bed. All these rules must be attended to, if yon wish to ensure a regular healthy plant of corn, and more especially wheat after a clover ley, which ought not to be ploughed more than from two to three inches in depth if ploughed only once. I have seen beautiful clover leys sown with wheat, and not produce half a crop. They 79 are ploughed up five or six inches deep, and the insects have unbounded liberty and opportunity to travel from one end of the field to the other between the furrows, and feast themselves on the roots of your crop. If your clover ley is fall of slugs, sow lime, or if a wet and cold soil, it would be advisable to rafter it-up shallow about a month before seed time ; then drag and harrow down and plough clean, but mind and not sow it too wet. Has not an All Wise Providence promised us seed time and harvest ? Then we infer that that seed time will be a fine one, which implies we should sow in fine weather and not smear it in anyhow in the wet. In conclusion, every furrow must be thoroughly torn to pieces, that lies on the seed, excepting after a clover ley once ploughed, and then it must not be harrowed too much to bring up the sward ; that must be kept under. On loose gravelly or sandy soils the wheat may be sown first, and plough it in (but mind the proper depth), well roll with Large's clover ley consolidator, and then harrow as much as it requires, without fetching up the sward. Sowing Gsass Seeds, on pasture land, should be attended to immediately after the hay is carried if the pasture is very poor, and a good coat of manure which had been prepared for that purpose in the previous winter. If your pasture is naturally rich in the best sorts of grasses there is no necessity for sowing any ; but all meadows should be slightly covered with compost or manure directly the hay is cleared off. All the best grasses shed their seeds early, the grass is mown, hay cleared, perhaps no rain or only just enough for the seeds to vegetate, dry weather again sets in, they wither and die. Pasture land, when deprived of its thick coat of grass, naturally requires something or other to keep it warm in the night, and to vegetate and establish into healthy plants before winter the seeds of those grasses which have been ripened and shed previous, and during the process of hay-making. If a horse is singed or dipt he is generally allowed an extra cloth or coat, why not treat the soil in the same manner ? As I have before stated, when anything has been used it should be cleaned and put away, and not remain until the time comes to use it again; give the soil an opportunity and it will clean itself. When a crop of corn is taken from the land it should be ploughed up directly (unless when sown with seeds), and pasture or meadow land should have a covering of some sort of compost or manure; if it cannot possibly be done every year it should, at least, be done every second year, if you wish to maintain the fertility of the soil. 80 Spaekows, undoubtedly, do a great deal of good, but if they cannot be kept from eating the corn they must be destroyed; they also must be watched when you are drilling or sowing wheat late in the season, until it is harrowed in, for they will pinch every corn. I should never encourage the thorough extirpation of sparrows if I could possibly, by any means, prevent their eating much corn. Stables. — Nearly one half of the farm stables are only fit for donkeys and pigs. To keep horses healthy the stable should be roomy and lofty, length according, of course, to the number of horses intended to be kept, breadth from inside wall to inside ditto, twenty feet, and ten feet in height. If there are any stalls they ought to be six feet in width, partitions five feet six inches in height and gradually rising as they approach the rack, which should be perfectly perpendicular, or those horses with blue eyea will go blind. The rack should be about two feet six inches in depth, viz.: — the spars, or bars, the manger, fourteen inches in width at top, ten inches at bottom, and ten inches deep. A strip of inch board should be nailed on the front top in the inside, to prevent the horses blowing out the chaff; no rings or iron staples, they will wear out your halter reins, but a piece of ash nailed on the outside with a hole through it, and a little grease now and then. Small doors should be placed over the rack in the hay loft at convenient distances, to prevent the cold winds descending to the horses' heads. There should also be windows to admit air at either end, and also behind the horses, and not to be within six feet of the ground. Doors to be in two, so that the top one may be left open if occasion requires. The floor to be pitched or paved evenly, just enough on the slope to drain itself well, and about a yard behind the horses' hind legs. There should be a gutter paved with good sound bricks, or smooth stone, washed down once a week, no under-ground drains of any sort inside, unless arranged with ammonia trap. A pin or peg behind each horse, for his harness, and a small one below for his bit and hemp halter. Some farmers wonder however it is they cannot keep the farrier away, always something or other the matter, and generally happening at the spring and autumn season, when you are busy in the field. In closely confined stables horses are brought in hot and tired, and instead of gradually cooling down and resting themselves, they begin to sweat and steam away (with the harness hung up 81 close to their heels and barely ropm for the carter to pass), get fainty and weak, and then are taken out to water and so catch cold. The stable should face the south, and twice a week should be sprinkled with chloride of lime. Stammebing. — It is a great misfortune to both master and man if a servant stammers, or has an impediment in his speech, and it is a master's duty to cure him if he can ; it generally happens to those persons that are of a nerveless and excitable disposition, and from being frightened, or spoken to in a harsh tone of voice; it is frequently the latter. All your conversation should be accompanied with a bright smile, and never look directly in the face. The boy or man should practise reading aloud to himself, and when he comes to a word he cannot articulate, he should draw in his breath and say it over to himself several times backwards. It is the eye and the voice that, nine times out of ten, is the cause of people stam- mering. It is the eye and the voice that tames the horse and the wild beast. Steam Ploughing.— Every farmer should avail himself of a steam plough directly after harvest, or begin as soon as he has any land cleared, for that is the grand sum total amount of advantage to be derived from the steam horse. Every acre of land ought to be torn up immediately, and as deep as you intend to plough it across the following spring. I venture to assert, if you adopt that plan every autumn you will grow at least six bushels more wheat per acre (on all heavy land especially), than you will if the fallowing is deferred until after wheat sowing, and the soil gets soaked with rains, which we must expect at that season of the year; and every other crop will be better in like proportion. When land is fallowed up in the winter, you often see four horses at length and all in the furrow ; each horse is supposed to have four legs, four fours are sixteen, each horse takes about one yard at a step (it may be rather more), and assuming that each horse's foot will cover six inches of ground, and, not forgetting the carter's two feet, every inch of the bottom of the furrow is completely puddled three times over. Then again, how are the winter rains to descend ? and if they do not descend, where is the moisture to come from the following summer ? The soil keeps cold all the winter and remains in that state until thoroughly baked with the sun, and then you want warm rain before you can get anything to grow. If no rain comes, there you are all the summer with clods g as large as horses' heads, and every clod is, perhaps, full of seeds of weeds, more or less. AH must be pulverized by some means or other, and at a ruinous expense. Whereas, if it is torn up in the autumn, the following spring it will be as mellow as ashes, and after it is cut across the first time, two horses in a plough will be quite sufficient. The simple way of testing is this, mark out a piece of ground in the garden, dig it up at a good fair depth, say in the month of September when it is dry, then in the winter, or when the soil is thoroughly wet, dig another piece of land the same size as before, dig a trench the same depth as before, and well tread the bottom of every one ; you will then see the following spring which is in the best state. The whole of the bed should be thoroughly trodden, viz.: — the subsoil precisely in the same manner as that which is fallowed up in the field in the winter, to accomplish which, you must use a large carpenter's rammer and well ram the bottom of every furrow to effect that object. Every farmer who occupies four hundred acres of arable land should keep a steam plough of his own ; the same engine will, of course, do for other purposes. He can manage with, at least, one team less, and the cost of three horses, man, and boy will be £100 for the year. I consider the benefit derived from this plan by the root crops to be more perceptible than in the corn crops. And if he can grow a greater weight of roots it will enable him to keep more stock, which will make more manure and consequently give him an increase of corn, which will realize a greater profit, and facilitate and increase the comforts and joys of home. Stock. — All sorts of stock kept on the farm should be as near as possible of the best breed that can be conveniently obtained. If you have a superior breed of any sort of stock, you can always find a customer at any time, and even when there is a scarcity of food, which is sure to come now and then, you can also sell off at a much earlier age, thereby enabling you to keep a larger stock of each and every sort. I consider this to be the great secret in keeping stock, viz.: — to breed and rear that sort which will grow and thrive best on a given quantity of food, to feed moderately and regularly in the winter season, not over stock in the summer, but allow them room, change, and water. An ill-conditioned animal will take at least 25 per cent, more food, and a longer period to fatten than one that is well-bred ; and also when in a young and growing state an ill-bred animal will starve on poor 83 feed, when the other will grow and do well. Some farmers are bigotted to their own, and ancestral opinions, that if their land is poor, well-bred animals are too good, but it is the greatest mistake a farmer can be guilty of. All stock should be seen twice every day, when feeding in the pastures ; all the manure, as fast as it drops from the cattle, viz.: — once or twice a week, when it is dry enough to take up, should be carted away to some convenient corner, to mix some future day with sides of ditches and gutters, and a little lime, which will make a valuable compost for your meadows. If this is not attended to, you will lose the feed of one in every ten or fifteen, especially in the meadows, where you have cattle for fattening, nor will they do as well. I consider the stock to be the main-spring of the farm, when the soil and situation is suitable for that purpose. Keeping stock is precisely the same as keeping house — what one is to the man the other is to the woman. Some good house-keepers will manage and do well for a family with £150 per annum, where it will cost another £200 per annum. One farmer will make £400 a year out of his stock, and another will make £450 with the same quantity of food, and the more stock there is kept the greater will be the difference. Some " gude wives " will make a pound of tea, or such like, last a month, while others will squander it away in three weeks. Some farmers will make an acre of fair roots and one ton of hay last a hundred tegs or lambs nearly or quite three weeks, and keep them in a fair growing state, while others will allow them to run over the same quantity in a fortnight. Every farmer should measure his hay ricks and root crops, occasionally, through the winter, half a' hurdle forward or saved in a day, and half a truss of hay, will, perhaps, make ten days or a fortnight's keep by-and'-by in the spring, and, perhaps, in that time if you intend selling, the trade may improve two or three shillings per head (for if a dealer Should come to buy at home, and finds that all your turnips and hay are gone, he will buy them at his own price, if he does not buy he does' not sO much care ; your sheep will go to fair, and all the dealers will know your feed is gone. Never allow any dealer to come unless you can show him plenty of feed, and a few wheat ricks; and never appear anxious to sell, for they will most assuredly see it). All store cattle will do equally well through the winter with one fifth less of coarse food, if they have a little good oil-cake once a day. The same rule I consider equally applicable to all sorts of cattle, sheep, horses, and pigs, if kept in a fair, store, and grow- g2 84 ing state. But in fattening any sort of cattle the case is different, still there may be a great deal saved by careful management. All servants think that no one sorter head of cattle can possibly have had enough unless there is a lot left after every meal, of every description of food they happen to be fed with. I should recom- mend all farmers to breed or rear /all their own stock, and the farm to be a self-supporting, self-motive power. They will not be so liable to diseases and distempers of the various kinds there are about. They know what they have of each and every breed of every description of cattle kept ; they know each other, and every- thing goes on in perfect harmony, and with a little judicious crossing now and then that object may be accomplished. They will also grow and do well on less food than cattle that you buy. When you want to buy, cattle and sheep are generally dear, and when you buy others are in the market. Never over-stock in the summer; keep as much of every kind of stock as you can in a healthy growing state. In the winter a great deal of forethought is required to make the most of all sorts of offal, &c. A great deal of coarse grass may be collected in the summer, round the corn fields, in some places, and dried. Rather select an indifferent animal from known good blood, than a superior one from a bad family. In selecting all sorts of stock the countenance is the first point, which should be cheerful or it will cost more to fatten them than they are worth; no living being will fatten very readily that is unfortunately possessed of a sour, unhappy looking countenance. The eyes should be full and bright, and good width between, soft mellow skin, clear white muzzle, straight chine to the setting on of the tail, which point, with the 'two hips and chine in a direct line between should be all perfectly level, a good length from the hip to the tail, which should be very small at the tip, ribs round, the last one nearest the hip to stand out a little beyond the others, and breast to project forward between the forelegs. I consider these rules to indicate a good and useful sort of bullock for any ordinary purpose. (Sheep, see " Sheep.") Cart horses should be quick and active, clean in the legs, plenty of bone, not less than sixteen hands, cheerful countenance, bright full eye, which should be always brown ; a horse with blue eyes is very apt to go blind. He should have good long hind quarters, and tail to be well up, almost in one continuous straight line from the chine, ribs round, the last near the hip to stand out a little beyond the others and to be as close to the hip as possible, and rather heavy in his fore-quarters, with his 85 fore-legs well out before him, so as to enable him to place his foot on the ground five or six inches beyond the perpendicular point of the front part of the shoulder when he is walking. The same rules do not apply to nag horses, particularly if you require speed. The hips should not stand so high, there should be a greater length from the hip to the hock, the last rib must not be so close to the hip, the thigh about eighteen inches below the hip should stand out wider than the hips. The thigh, the ribs, shoulder, and muzzle should be in a perfectly straight line. The withers must be two or three inches higher than in the cart horse. The horse cannot appear too narrow in his fore quarters if his barrel is round, and a good distance between the rider's knees when he is mounted. In fact a nag horse for speed should be exactly the shape of a nicely made iron wedge, the tip of which, like the horse's muzzle, should be thin, and gradually widening in a straight line to the thigh ; no sharp angles, or unsightly lumps must appear, for they all interfere with swimming through the air, just the same as they would with a fish in the water. Three points must not be forgotten — good sound legs and feet, quick eye, and good con- stitution. The most profitable sort of pigs to breed for stores and to fatten, are those from a large spotted sow and a good sized Berkshire boar, but rather fine in the bone ; the tail of both male and female should be set on high level with the chine. Select your sows from those who profess to breed the large black and white spotted sort, with plenty of bone, thin in the skin, small tail, head not too long, full eye, good width between, and rather a long neck. If you wish to breed pigs to sell for stock you had better keep to one particular breed, but the cross above stated is the most profitable method of breeding pigs, being somewhat similar to the first cross in sheep between the south-downs and long-woolled. The best place for weaning calves is an orchard, and the more thickly it is crowded with trees the better ; they require a shed made rather long, with an opening at the end about four feet from the ground, and not much higher ; for the object is to keep it as dark as possible, to enable the calves to get away from the flies. If the fly does come into the shed burn some tobacco in a tin vessel suspended by a piece of wire from the top of the shed inside once or twice a week. Keep plenty of water by them, and all sorts of stock ; some people will drive their cattle to water, which is a very foolish practice, especially for all young stock, it makes them 86 unsettled, and they never do so well ; it also tempts them to get out. When the orchard gets short of grass they should be turned into a small meadow saved for that purpose. Calves must not be allowed to run into aftermath if you wish to keep them healthy. The second year yearlings may be kept in the day time round the by-roads and lanes, if any ; they will thrive and do well on the young shoots from the hedges. A great deal more stock may be kept than is usually done if properly attended to, viz., — by taking care of all offal, to be cut into chaff and mixed with grated roots, to have enough and not too much, with loose straw to look over twice a day for amusement. Stbaw. — If you are allowed to sell straw, put it in small convenient stacks and sell it so much for each lot. The trouble of weighing, &c, takes up too much time on a farm where there is always plenty of other work to do. On poor, hungry soils it will not pay to sell much straw, for it will all be required to be returned to the land; but on strong heavy wheat-growing soils it may answer your purpose to do so. If you live near a large town where there is a good demand for the article, it should be trussed up from the machine, and sold so much per truss. Tou need not trouble to weigh; the men can do it near enough by guess. When the machine stops, then weigh two or three in the course of the day for a guide. Sell by the truss, weighing so much, more or less, give fair weight and let that suffice. Sweabxng. — " Swear not at all," nor allow your servants to do so ; it is a growing evil. Is any person aware of what he is doing when he says, "lam d d "? Why he at the same time tella the most palpable He ; he says he is in hell, instead of which he ought to be thanking the Almighty that he is on earth. Swedes. — Some soils will not grow good swedes, but will grow good red-round turnips, and sometimes green rounds. To grow good swedes the land should be, of course, ploughed up deep and well directly after harvest. In the winter, the first frost, put on your farm-yard manure, and cross plough it in as soon as it is dry enough ; well work it down and pulverize every clod, then plough it the other way, then across, and shallower every time, well working it down and pulverizing every clod between each ploughing. The land ought now to rest for about three weeks. Get ready your ashes and superphosphate, about 2 cwt. per acre. About the first week in June plough two inches deep, drive the cattle in the furrow, and drill in your seed with the ashes, &c, sixteen inches apart, close up to the plough. If the fly is very busy, you had better plough and sow mornings and evenings, watch them three times a day ; if the fly does appear, get ready some lime slaked, and finely powdered soot, and sulphur, mix together and sow over in the night with some sort of broadcast machine, and also roll in the night, if required. As soon as the plants are strong enough they should be harrowed across the drills, which will help to single them out. You cannot hoe them out too soon if you expect to have fine roots ; the plants should be left about ten inches apart. On some soils the land requires to be ridged to produce a good crop. !KTo manure should be used for the swede crop made from cattle fed on any description of turnip, for it is liable to bring on all sorts of diseases. The manure should have been carted to a heap in the field during the winter, and the cattle driven over the heap to prevent fermentation ; it should be turned over about ten days before you want to use it. The labour is not lost, the , manure falls to pieces, and is more easily spread. Tour ridges should be as close together as your cart wheels will allow. Drill in some sort of manure the same as before ; there ought to be an iron wheel one inch and a half in width, to go before the seed pipe to make a firm seed bed. "Watch for the fly as before. The plants may be singled out by women at so much per row, and once hoeing after by the men will be sufficient, with the assistance of the horse-hoe. Although the cost of ridging may seem a great deal at first, it does not amount to much more in the end, if done by those who understand it. Turnip or rape seed should be drilled in between the ridges the latter end of August for green food in the spring. Good crops of swedes may be grown after rye, trifolium, and vetches on warm soils, if they are fed off young enough, but come best after rye, the ground having been previously manured for that crop. On all early soils swedes may be grown between rows of potatoes (for cultivation of which see " Potato "). I consider swedes to be the most valuable of root crops for feeding purposes until the middle of March, when mangolds are then fit to begin. Mangold wurtzel will do well for milch cows or ewes all the winter, but for fattening purposes they require a larger quantity of meal to be mixed with them, or the cattle will be too loose. The most suitable farm-yard manures for the swede crop, are fat hog and stable manure. If for ridging apply when in a state of fermentation, and it ought always to be applied in that state if 88 possible for all crops. Goose manure, pigeon dung (with which sand should be sprinkled once a week), manure from the hen roost, and all sorts of ashes, soaked in liquid manure, are all valu- able fertilizers when applied to this crop. The most economical method of applying liquid manure is to absorb as much as you can in light earth or ashes. Liquid manure has a wonderful eftect on the land as it drops or falls from the cattle, but very little good will be derived by carting it over the soil with manure carts after it has been some time in the tanks, until it has undergone some chemical process, to bring it into a state of fermentation by mixing a certain quantity of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), to accomplish that object, for as the liquid manure cools, its valuable properties are all sealed up, and, as I have before stated, it must be brought into a state of fermentation, either by being absorbed in light earth or ashes, or anything that will cause it to ferment, or by the above chemical process. When ashes or earth has been thoroughly soaked, they should be thrown out on the dry ground in a conical heap, and turned to promote the fermentation. Fresh horse droppings should be taken to your manure shed when you have an opportunity, also manage to fatten half a score hogs in some convenient place by themselves, and put plenty of ashes (no straw) under them, which should be protected from the rain, and cart the manure to your shed to mix with the other. You must not fatten your hogs anywhere in the neighbourhood of your breeding establishment, or your young pigs will never be healthy, and perhaps half of them die with the fever or some other complaint. As soon as the swede and turnip sowing is completed, every farmer should employ all the odd hands in collecting ashes, &c, for the next year's root crop whenever there is an opportunity ; and all rubbish that will not decay should be burned into ashes. The cheapest and best way to preserve swedes from the frost, and from running to seed, is to plough out a furrow as deep as you can, stack them in close together, then plough one or two furrows up to them ; there are several other plans which many persons adopt, but the one before stated is by far the most expeditious, and the cheapest method. Some will throw them in heaps ; when that is done, there ought not to be more than five or six bushels in a heap ; turn the tops inside, stack them in a conical heap, and cover about four inches of earth over them, and no more, or they will decay. This should be done just before Christmas and in mild weather ; then in the spring when they begin to grow and burst 89 through the heaps, plough a deep furrow in between the rows of heaps, and stack them in as before stated ; they will then get fresh and sweet, and throw out greens for the young lambs ; the sheep will pay for all this extra trouble. With regard to feeding cattle on swedes there is one thing not to be forgotten, they will do much better and thrive faster if the swedes are topped and tailed, and carted to a mow in some barn about four feet thick, slightly covered with straw, and remain there for a month to get mellow before they are used. If you adopt this plan about Christmas they will keep sound and good until June ; if they shoot out they must be turned, tops taken off and served in the same manner as potatoes. The breeding sows will do well with them without any other description of food when they are not giving suck. The weaning calves will also be much improved by having a few cut small, and the cart horses if the carrots are gone, but they should be cut small, with Gardner's sheep cutter, and for calves to begin with about the size of a large horse bean. I should also recommend storing a few swedes at the back of the store cattle shed, and have them well thatched. The eaves of the shed should project sufficiently for that purpose. There should be a door in the centre at the back of the store cattle shed, opening into a house to prepare the roots. Tabes. — All farmers should grow their own seed vetches or tares. Most land will grow beans if properly managed, and that is the place to grow your tares for seed ; if the beans are dibbled, one vetch as near as can be in one bunch of beans, or one vetch to about a square foot of land supposing you drill, which will be 43,560 seeds. If you drill you will require to mix the tares with the beans before you go to the field, and to know the proper quantity of tares for one acre you must measure out a pint or half a pint and count them, for they vary in size, some seasons being much larger than in others. If you have too many tares they will choke your bean crop. No farmer should save vetches for seed in any other way, for they impoverish the soil and leave it in an unhealthy state for future crops. We know some farmers say they cannot grow beans. There are, I will admit, certain soils which require to be managed differently to others. Hot gravelly soils, and some sandy soils, should have a thick dressing of clay, peat, or mud, and sometimes chalk, but not too much ; and above all they require deep cultiva- tion. (See " Beans.") All gardeners, and every poor man who 90 has a garden, can generally manage to grow beans ; the principal reason why some soils will not grow them is because they are not planted early enough. Tempebatube oe the Soil. — There are various opinions as to the proper time of sowing the different crops of corn, roots, &c. The proper time for sowing wheat in a general way must depend principally on the heat or cold of the preceding summer. If the summer has been very hot sowing must be deferred until a later period, viz., when the soil is cooled down to about 50 degrees of Fahrenheit. For if the soil is warmer the wheat comes up too quickly (it ought not to be up before twenty-five or twenty-eight days) and grows too fast above ground, instead of the roots pene- trating downwards. The yield will not be so good, besides your being troubled with a host of weeds, if you have any left in the soil. Every practical farmer will, of course, soon ascertain when the soil has arrived at the proper temperature, just as the practical brewer knows when to mash his malt without the assistance of the thermometer. He will be guided by the heat of the preceding summer, locality, and climate. Barley should not be sown before the temperature has reached about 44 degrees of heat, which ia generally in the middle of March ; and get it all in as soon as possible, for if deferred until a later period, when the soil becomes hot, it grows too fast above ground instead of the roots growing downwards in search of proper nourishment, and consequently the yield will be deficient in quantity and quality. We now have another reason for abolishing the ruinous practice of the supposed new-fashioned four-course system, viz., — barley after turnips and swedes. It is not kind for any corn crop (excepting peas) after swedes. Some farmers say the land is too light and poor to grow barley after wheat. Grow two good green crops before the wheat, and then try. There will be ample condition left for the barley crop, and the wheat will extract (on some soils) that which is injurious to good malting barley. On the thinnest hot soils stubble turnips may be sown after wheat, fed off, and land ploughed before Christmas, and then sown with barley. Oats, beans, and peas ought to be sown before the temperature gets too high, excepting on very cold wet soils ; you will then have to wait until later in the season for peas. All crops require heat to bring them to perfection, and wheat will not ripen well if the heat is under 60 degrees, which is often the case on farms in very high situations. For ?1 every three hundred feet of altitude you must allow one degree less heat. This may not seem to be mueh in quantity, but one degree tells wonderfully upon the ripening of a crop. Epot crops &1sq require heat to bring them to perfection, especially as regards their feeding properties ; the more heat we have the sweeter is all our fruit, and in like manner roots of all kinds will secrete a larger amount of saccharine matter. The farmer ought always to prepare for the following summer's heat, by autumn cultivation, which must come into universal practice, and not plough the soil about too deep the following spring. When the soil is ploughed deep in the spring and early summer, the drought gets in and there is no moisture or nourishment left for the plants, and then it is that some people say the summer was too hot and dry, they couH; not grow a good crop of roots, which is quite a mistake, at least seven times out of ten. With the steam plough in the autumn, as soon as the crops are cleared, with the soil properly pulverized in the spring, plenty of good farm-yard manure, superphosphate, and ashes, soaked in liquid manure, a thoroughly good crop may be obtained on any ordinary soil. Thobn.— Instead of buying thorn sets for hedges, you had, better gather the seed in the autumn, in the month pf October. Take them to some shed, spread them out, not more than nine inches thick, and mix sand with them, and turn them frequently if they get too hot. They must remain in that state for eighteen months, for they will not vegetate before that time. However; in February or March, in the second spring, they may be drilled in a bed of light, rich soil. The following March transplant them out, four inches apart, in rows six inches ap^rt, and let them remain until strong enough to plant in your fence. The weakest plants may be transplanted again for another season. When you plant the sets, they should be planted on the breast of the bank, which should not be too upright nor too flat — about an angle of 34 degrees. The turf to be taken off and laid on the bank in such a manner that the sets may be in a slanting direction, with the roots downwards, and the next best ffi>il to be put just on beyond the roots ; after having been covered over, the remainder of the soil should then be taken out of the ditch (which .should be one foot in width at the bottom) and placed to form the bank. If you cannot make a ditch you must then, of course, plant on the surface, but they always do best on the breast of the bank, and I should always 92 recommend planting a double row in a triangular form. The leaves of the hawthorn make very good tea, and are very much used by a great many who are not aware of the admixture. Thbashing. — Thrash all spring corn when the cattle require the straw, for it is much better when fresh. If thrashed with the flail, see that it is thrashed clean, and not allow the men to take up the straw with the fork in the floor, as is too often the case, for by so doing, a great deal of corn is mopped up. It should be well shaken up and over the rack. When the barn doors are shut there should be a piece of timber nailed on each door which, on closing, will fit immediately on and over either end of the rack, and prevent any one from lifting it up outside. Barns are often entered and robbed in this manner. There is also another very ingenious way of getting into barns, which I have myself detected. The nails of one of the weather boards (at a convenient height} are drawn at one joint, and splintered off at the next nailing place, and then neatly supported with wooden pegs. The depredator has then unlimited access. If you have a shed at the end or side of the barn, or any small house that is not kept locked, that is the place for this little bit of ingenuity. When thrashing is going on regularly, and cattle are supplied with the straw (especially if oil-cake is given), eight or ten strong store pigs may be kept with no other food than a few roots, previously stored and got mellow in some house or shed near. The shaking of the corn from the straw is the principal thing to be attended to in thrashing, especially with the flail. The bulk of the thrashing is now generally done with steam power, and if the machine is properly set, and the corn in good condition, there is not much to fear. The straw-elevator is a great improvement, not only in saving labour, but in more effectually separating the corn from the straw. Thrashing machines can scarcely be said to be perfect yet, nor will they be until the corn is thrashed, winnowed, and weighed from the machine at once. It will also be more satisfaction to the buyer, for the top and bottom of the rick, if made on the ground, will not weigh as heavy as the middle, if thrashed in damp weather. Again, there is not the temptation for servants that there is when the corn is lying all over the barn in heaps, and the farmer always in a fret, fearing some person or other may rob him, which quite unfits him for other business matters. When straw sells well, and is near a town, it is often trussed up from the machine ; it is 93 advisable then to allow it to go over the elevator to make sure of all the corn. I should also recommend thrashing at so much per sack; you have only to see then that the work is properly performed, for when the machine is not at work there are a great many idle hands, and all must be paid. In conclusion, keep all the work on the farm in good place, so that if markets should jump, up, and you want to thrash in a hurry, you may not be driven to neglect other work. As a general rule it undoubtedly answers best to thrash (especially wheat) from the field, if you can get it in good condition. It never measures so well at the same weight as it does at that period. If put in stacks ever so dry, it will heat and sweat for three weeks, and take the same time to get into condition. In some neighbourhoods it will not be in as good condition until the following spring. On large farms, of course, this plan cannot be generally adopted, but that which is intended to be thrashed early in the autumn should be done in the field. Timbeb. — Keep a stock of well-seasoned ash and elm timber for repairing farm implements, but keep it under lock and key. Pieces of board, &c, are very tempting. Tradesmen's Bills. — When the business is sufficiently large, all work should be done on the farm as much as possible, and a shop with the necessary tools should be kept for that purpose. If not, the master or bailiff should make an entry in a book of the different articles required to be repaired, before they leave the premises, and the tradesman to put the price and return the book every time. Tbees. — When you first take a farm and have made up your mind to remain, look about and see where trees can be profitably planted, viz. : — orchard, damson trees round the paddock near home, withies for pollard trees on both sides of brooks and watery ditches which sort should be planted four yards apart, and nearly two feet into the soil. All other trees to be planted as shallow as possible. On all poor hills, where nothing else will grow, plant larch for poles, piles, &c. On all low swampy and odd corners plant withies for rods ; they will pay as well or better than a corn crop. A great many trees are injured by being planted too deep. All other sorts, the roots to be only covered from three to six inches, according to the kind and nature, and firmly staked. Look well to the withy-pollards in the spring and summer, or the cattle will peel off the bark, especially calves, until they are three 94 or four years old, at which time the bark will be hard and rough, and there will be no danger. No trees of any kind should be allowed to remain in the middle of a corn field ; for every tree there is at least £1 damage per annum. Sheep are also sure to lie under the trees in hot weather, and the manure is lost. On pasture lands the case is vice versa. A few elm trees are desirable, as shade for the cattle. Tubkeys may be profitably kept when you can keep them out of the corn-fields, and away from the corn-ricks, and the soil is dry and healthy. They will not require feeding after the first eight or nine weeks, until they are shut up to fatten. They must not be confined in the dark like other poultry, but have a comfortable yard covered over with fine gravel and finely powdered brick, fenced in to prevent their flying over, and a house to go into at night. Barley-meal and boiled potatoes morning and night, ten o'clock ; beans, two o'clock; French wheat or buck wheat, and plenty of water by them. The yard should be about twelve or fourteen yards square. The French or buck wheat should be given them in the straw, and if that is not to be obtained some barley in the straw will answer nearly the same purpose. The straw should be cleaned out twice a week, and a little fresh gravel or sand strewed over. They will be fat in about a month. The Norfolk turkey is the largest breed, but the black with feathers tinged with copper colour is the finest flavour. Tttbnips. — The turnip crop is the keystone of the farm arch or bridge on which to ride or walk safely over. The best sorts are the Norfolk white-globe for early feeding, Sutton's improved green-round to follow, and the old flat green-round to feed last (and until swedes are fit). They bury themselves in the groundj the early frost does not hurt them, and they keep fresh and sound until February. On wet heavy soils the white-tankard will perhaps answer best, and then the green-tankard. The red-round is the best sort to sow on poor clay soils, and they may be sown later than any of the former sorts: The cultivation of the turnip is in almost every respect the same as the swede. Everything and anything in the shape of manure will do good, especially ashes, which when applied in large quantities has a two-fold effect ; in wet weather the soil immediately round the plant does not remain soddened so long, and in dry weather it attracts the moisture from the soil below, and the dews of the night from the atmosphere, owing to its saline nature. The 95 land does not require to be ridged unless the soil is 'very wet, and then it ought to be drained. On kind turnip soils they will only require once hoeing, to be drilled in sixteen inches apart; with the water drill, if an unkind and very dry season. Watch for the fly when the plants are up, horse-hoe between the drills. The best implement for that purpose is to take off the turn-furrows from your ordinary ploughs, get some wide tops, and one horse to each plough will do over two acres per day. When strong enough harrow them with a small set of harrows askew of the drills one way, then in about a week, or less, according to their growth, harrow them askew the other way, and that will help to single them out. As soon as fit put the men to cut them out and leave them eight inches apart, which will give you 43,560 roots to the acre. All farmers should prepare a piece of land without any green crop previously grown, for an early crop of Norfolk white turnips, and as early as possible for the young lambs. It is best for the lambs, and also for the wheat crop that follows, if rape is mixed with the turnip crop. As to the earliest possible time that turnips can be sown without running to seed, it is difficult to say. In some counties they may be sown the latter end of March, viz.: — the snowball turnip, without running to seed, whereas on some hot soils they will run to seed if planted a month or six weeks later. The best plan is for every farmer to have a good sized garden, and there to test everything he grows on the farm. For turnips begin soon enough, and sow one drill every week with different sorts of manure, some on deep cultivation^ some firm, some light ; and also the different sorts of roots, grasses; and corn, for that sort which will thrive and do well on one soil will not do well on another. After the first eight or ten acres of forward turnips are sown, which should be early enough to supply food to follow the cabbage immediately (the quantity being determined according to the size of the flock), the remainder of the turnip crop may be grown after other green crops are fed off. If after vetches they must be eaten off when young, for the longer the vetch remains after it shows for blo'offi the more it unfits the soil for the turnip crop, and it gets worse and worse every day by simply dividing the texture of the soil. All the regular turnip crop should be finished in July. On some hot soils, jnst before the wheat is fit to cut and after the ear is well filled, if the weather is showery, a man may walk up and down a piece of wheat without doing any damage and sow some early stone stubble turnip seed, 96 which will be fit to feed in about six weeks, and will help to save your winter turnips. They will come better than as though the land was ploughed, for you would be perhaps a fortnight later. I should not recommend it on a large scale; just to get them fed off by the time the steam plough comes to plough it up after all the rest is done, but the quantity of acres done in this manner will depend on the number of sheep there are kept. The great secret in growing the regular crop of turnips is deep ploughing in the autumn, as soon as the crops are cleared off, to allow the winter rains to descend to afford nourishment the following summer, and not to disturb it below that depth afterwards ; to plough shallower every time, and to well pulverize every clod between each ploughing, and also to rest between each ploughing long enough to allow the seeds of weeds to vegetate. Turnips may also be. grown on hot soils between the rows of mangold, when they are grown on the ridge. The turnip seed should be drilled in about the last week in July, not too thickly, with a one-row manure-drill. Turnip seed may also be sown among peas and beans before they are cut, if the weather is stormy. The object of the seed is not much, and if you can get a plant they will grow faster and do better than if the land is ploughed, especially after peas, if the weather should be hot and dry. To grow turnip seed, if the harvest is early and soil quick, plough up deep and well directly the corn is off, well work it down, and drill in your turnip seed one foot apart with ashes, &c, and thin them out three inches apart ; or you may sow turnips or swedes thickly in some odd corner or under a tree, and transplant in the spring, at the same distance. It does not require large bulbs for seed. Swedes must be transplanted as early in the spring as you can, but turnips may be planted much later. If you sell your sheep at home, sell them, if you can, before your turnips are gone, and a wheat rick or two standing will be all in your favour. For when a dealer comes to buy a lot of sheep, his eye will be everywhere, to find out, if he can, whether you are obliged to sell or not. If you are, you must not show it by your manner ; for he will most assuredly take advantage, and especially if you are driven into a corner for feed, and have no ricks to call his attention to the sample you are in the habit of growing. A few large wheat ricks in the spring will be a great help towards selling your flock. Twice. — All cattle should be seen twice a day when feeding the pastures ; one may get in the ditch, another hung up in the gate, 97 some get fighting, one breaks his horn, and perhaps bleeds almost or quite to death. The blood will set all the rest in an uproar, and one may get in the pond or drinking place, (to guard against which see " Drinking Places "). UV Unity is strength. All the household should be united, hold together, and lean one way, in the same manner as the thatch on the ricks. Urinal Manures. — Have tanks to save all, that none be wasted, and see that your buildings are all spouted, or it will not be good for much. (Management of which, see " Ashes," and " Swedes.") That which is not required, throw over the manure in the yard or heap. Useless Implements. — Get rid of them all, and keep none but what are of use. V. Valley. — Always be on the look out for fruitful valleys when you take a farm. If a muddy eel-brook runs through the middle of the farm it is all the better, and if a beautiful trout stream it will not be much the worse. There are various signs which indicate a good soil and also a bad soil ; therefore it requires a man with a quick eye to see at once the advantages and dis- advantages of this or that farm. Some farms require draining ; it would have been done long ago, but there is no fall for the water. A man with an observant eye will see at once, for a mile or two, either way, if it is to be obtained. You drain your land, get it all into your lowest outside ditch, and your neighbour must take it along to the next, and so on until you obtain the necessary accommodation. Vault. — Every farm should have a hog vault for storing all wash, sweepings, grains, &c. Vermin. — All sorts of vermin should be destroyed. Nothing betokens a slovenly farmer more than allowing his place to be torn about with rats and mice. To destroy mice keep plenty of cats, and feed them well with milk every evening in different places about the buildings. They will catch more mice by being well fed than they will if not fed. Also place poison underneath the eaves of your ricks as soon as they are thatched. Get tho 98 Wiltshire composition for that purpose, and put it on fresh nut. wood from the hedge or coppice. Never allow any professional man to come near the premises for any such purpose. (To destroy rats, see " Rats.") If they continue to come from a neighbour put gas tar in every hole and run you can find. To poison rats, take Opium, half an ounce Glass of antimony, half an ounce Cocculus Indicus in powder, quarter of an ounce Oil of Ehodinm, twenty drops Fine flour, two ounces Loaf sugar, finely powdered, half an ounce Make all into a paste, divide it into pellets or pills about the size of horse beans, put a few into the holes and plenty of water near. Catch two or three alive in a common hutch trap, put a little gas tar on them and turn them loose again ; you must not put too much or it will kill them, just touch a little along the back and sides with a small brush. When rats and mice get behind wainscots, &c, of the house or buildings, get some common salt and pour a little oil of vitriol upon it, pour it in the holes and ■stop them up ; the gas produced from this mixture will soon wake them up ; unstop the holes after five minutes and they will soon be out. Pieces of cork stewed in fat or grease and put in the holes will destroy a great many, for they cannot digest it. Weasels, stoats, and polecats may be destroyed with common gins or traps. Bait with, a dead bird of some sort, a stick in the ground stuck in a slanting direction, and the bait fastened to a string, and hung directly over the trap, about sixteen inches above it. It will be always safest to put two or three traps, for they sometimes gnaw their legs off and get away. Moles, in my opinion, should not be destroyed, excepting in the garden, unless they get too numerous, for they feed on insects which are very destructive. The heaps of mould should, of course, be spread as fast as they appear. Hedgehogs should also be preserved ; they live on insects, especially slugs ; it is a good plan to keep one in the garden. Some people are so absurd as to imagine they suck the cows. They are more likely to take the milk themselves, for depend upon it there are thousands of gallons taken by stealth, ■especially in the summer time. And as for destroying game, it is equally absurd. They will eat it perhaps after having been killed by some other species of vermin. Hawks and kites should be 99 ^destroyed with iron gins made five inches square, and baited with some bird, chicken, or mouse, fastened to the trap, either on the ground or on a long pole stuck in the ground with a board on the top. Owls should be preserved, for they live principally on mice ; they will suck eggs, but then they should be collected in the day. They will not leave the shells about, but take them to their roost, and there you will find them packed in each other. Rooks should also be preserved, for they destroy thousands of insects of all sorts, and are also fond of the seeds of the wild mustard. They nmst, of course, be kept from eating the corn. A dead crow is the best thing to scare away rooks for a time, until the corn is safe, it should then be removed ; it is no use putting a dead rook, foxes and birds of prey will take it, but a crow they will not. Crows should be destroyed. A dead cat is also a good thing if the fox does not take it away, but the safest plan is an old man with the gun ; it is no use having boys ; if you do you must put a man to look after them. Grubs. — The grub is the larvas of the cockchaffer, and it is four years before it gets matured to the cockchaffer; encourage the rooks, and that is the best remedy. Wire-worm is the larvee of the click beetle ; it is five years in coming to perfection, and is the most destructive of all insects. Encourage all the rooks you can, sow plenty of seed, on a firm seed bed, and use the clover ley consolidator made by Messrs. Barrett and Exall, Reading, Berks. In orchards, &c., pour a little boiling water round the stems in the winter, and wash the main branches and stem or trunk of the tree with lime water and flour of sulphur, which will destroy the insects and moss. Earth worms may be destroyed by three or four applications of lime water from the watering-pot. Vetches (see " Tares," for seed) ; but to grow a continuous salad for sheep and horses, a great deal of forethought must be exercised. The first ought to be sown as early in the autumn as possible, the last week in August, or first or second week in September. We presume, of course, the land is ploughed up deep as soon as the crop of corn is cleared. It is then too deep for vetches if the land is very rough. It must then be worked about ; you need not get it fine ; the rougher the better, in reason, so long as you can plough it once more and about four inches deep, and then drill your vetches. If for sheep feed two bushels of vetches and one bushel of winter beans, if the beans are large then an extra half bushel. If for horses winter oats should be mixed h2 100 instead of beans, and in the spring sowing for horses the white. Tartar oat is best for that purpose. The second sowing should be the last week in October, then again in February or March, as soon as the land is dry enough ; for vetches must, if possible, be planted in the dust, and directly after the plough. You ought to then sow every fortnight until the middle of June. In all the spring sowings for sheep two quarts of rape seed should be sown per acre, and a few white oats of any sort, and in most cases one bushel and a half of vetches will be sufficient per acre. On some hot soils spring sown vetches will burn up and blight ; to such a place I would say good night, and seek for a better spot. If it is so and you intend to work such soil, you must then grow rye grass and trefoil ; also the different sorts of cabbage to fill up the vacuum (in fact no farmer should be without them if he has a flock of sheep) ; rape and early turnips can be sown after the first crop is fed off, which will again be ready to feed off in time for wheat. Every farmer should grow his own cabbage plants, his garden should be sufficiently large for that purpose ; they will take root much sooner, and the crop will be fit a week earlier if planted in the spring. The best sort for early feed is Sutton's early garden, Wheeler's imperial to follow, and the drumhead for autumn and winter. But you require vetches for your lambs in the hot summer days. Sanfoiu in the morning, vetches in the heat of the day, and then at night a fold of rye grass and trefoil mixed with a little Dutch clover. Your vetches, lye grass, and trefoil will now be too old ; the second crop of sanfoin will now be fit for the morning, the second crop of Dutch clover (the previous crop having been mown for hay) at noon in place of vetches if they are gone, and rape and forward turnips at night. As the green food disappears and the nights get cold, a little malt dust or oil-cake should be given. After vetches are in blossom they begin to impoverish some soils, and make them worse every day by dividing the texture of the soil. On soils that are too tenacious, especially clays, they will do good. w. Walnut. — If you want to plant walnut trees for fruit, you must plant them on strong stone tiles, buried one foot below the surface for about one yard square, or the tap root will penetrate downwards, the tree will grow upwards, and you will have no fruit for fifteen or twenty years, and perhaps not for thirty. If 101 they are to be grown for timber, then be careful not to injure the tap root, and plant on deep rich soil ; they will do much better if not moved at all after the nut is planted. "Waste caused by Game. — Eight of shooting and liberty to shoot, what is the difference ? It is simply this, the liberty to shoot implies that you may shoot, but it does not exclude other parties. The right of shooting gives you the whole and sole right, and excludes every one else ; therefore be careful what lease yon sign. Wateb. — See that you have plenty of good water for all sorts of cattle, to which they should have free access. It is a bad practice to drive cattle from one place to another for water. Make a pond (see " Pond ") in preference to digging a well ; the water is much better, especially for cow cattle and sheep. For horses it should be pumped into the trough in the morning for the evening, and vice versa, with wood ashes kept in the trough and changed once a week. Wateb Meadows. — -Never attempt to water meadows unless you can get it to run off quickly, or it will do more harm than good. The floating should commence as soon as the aftermath is consumed; keep the water on three weeks, then off one to drain dry, then on again for three weeks, and so on through November, December, and January. In February turn the water on for only five or six days, then off two or three, taking care to let the water off in frosty weather. In most places the meadows will take the ewes and lambs in the middle of March. After having been fed they may be watered again as soon as possible for a crop of hay ; they must not be fed with sheep the second time for fear of the rot, which is very likely to occur. After the hay is carried (which should be mixed with barley or oat straw, for it is very apt to heat, and sometimes gets too hot), the meadows may be fed with cattle until the time comes round for flooding again, at which time the cattle, especially the young ones, should be brought into the yard, or the autumnal fogs will give them the hoose or husk. A man should attend the meadows who thoroughly understands it, or much feed will be lost ; every drain, and every stop, and all sluices must be carefully attended to, and all moles destroyed. Weeds. — Agricultural weeds may be divided into three classes, viz. : — annuals, biennials, and perennials, which last class will exist for years in the soil. There are also seeds of an oily nature, that 102 will remain safely in the ground for years without growing. To effectually destroy the two former sorts two things must be attended to, viz. : — to bring the seeds within the limits of vegetation, and to destroy ' every weed that vegetates. (See " Fallows.") Couch grass, Triticwm repens, must not be allowed to run to seed, or it will take years to get rid of it. Pick np and burn every bit. When washed, dried, and cut into chaff it is a famous thing — I may say the best, or better than any hay — for getting a nag horse in con- dition, a little twice a day. All weeds of every description should be cleaned out from the hedges and ditches in a green state and given to the cattle or pigs ; and if any remain that cannot be con- veniently cut until after harvest, they must then be cut and burned at once, for it is useless to clean your land unless you also keep your hedgerows clean. When a piece of land is very full of couch it ought not to be ploughed too many times, for you will cut it all into short bits, and there will be more difficulty in picking it up; but use scarifier and drags, roller, harrows, then roller and chain- harrows, or perhaps you may be obliged to roll and harrow several times before you can do much good with the chain-harrows. The chain-harrow is one of the best inventions of all modern farm implements, but it should be made of square bar iron, for twice going over the land will do more good than three times over with those that are made of round bar iron. A man has the handles of all his tools made round because they shall not chafe his hands, and of course we require the chain-harrow to be made of square bar iron, to chafe the clods, &o. Perennials, or weeds of the third class, are more difficult to eradicate. Among the perennial weeds we find the dock, thistle, wild oat, and coltsfoot. The steam-plough in the autumn will very much weaken the thistle and coltsfoot, and a clean summer fallow after will destroy them all. Docks must be pulled by the hand after heavy rains. They are often sown in the clover seed, therefore you had better be careful when you buy your seed. During the process of fallowing a great many may be picked up, when after a storm of rain they are easily seen, if ever so small. If a piece of land is much overrun with wild oats, plough, manure, and work down as fine as possible ; you will then probably get a good crop ; then just before they come into ear cut them for hay. Manure the land again and sow rape, and if the soil is heavy sow tares as well ; feed off, and then into wheat, or if you fancy there are still some left, plough and work down again ; feed off in the spring and sow oats. All docks and thistles in pasture land should be 103 drawn out with a proper implement; but there is one sort of < thistle which will be more effectually destroyed by being beaten and bruised with knobbed sticks. A farmer may just as well allow his neighbours' cattle to come in and help eat up his, grass as to allow docks and thistles to remain. The ragweed is also a troublesome pest in pasture land, and is generally found on dry soils ; it should be pulled up by the root just before the flower expands. One thing bear in mind, one year's weeding will prevent seeding, but one year's seeding will make seven yeaxs' weeding. Wells. — Rather than dig a well you had much better make a pond. (See "Ponds.") Wheat is one of the most important of all corn crops, and to ensure a bulky and uniform erop great attention must be paid to the preparation of the soil. The best .plan, undoubtedly, is after two green crops, the first crop eaten and folded on the land, viz.: — swedes, the second forward white turnips and rape mixed, or tares and rape mixed, if the soil is heavy and tenacious, eaten off and folded on another part of the farm, or lambs to feed and fold on the same, and stock ewes clean up behind and folded up on another part of the farm. All will depend upon tbe richness of this or that piece of land intended for wheat. This is the only correct four-field system which can be profitably adopted, there being ample condition in the soil for barley or oats. The barley is also a much better sample than when grown after swedes or turnips, in fact it is not kind for any corn crop after swedes;, excepting peas. The yield will also be much more after wheat, taking seven or eight years together. Wheat one-fourth, next year barley or oats will be two-fourths, half of the barley or oat land sown with broad clover, and the other half (all but ten or twelve acres, which should be sown with rye grass and a little trefoil) to be sown in the autumn with rye, stubble turnips, &c, to come in for swedes the following spring. The rye grass and trefoil will also be fed off soon enough for swedes or turnips ; you will then have one- eighth part swedes, which, when fed off, will be sown with turnips and rape, or rape and tares, and that will make one-fourth for turnips, &c. The broad clover stubble can be planted with beans, peas, and a few acres of winter vetches ; you can also grow a few acres of winter vetches in the barley stubble that is not sown with clover, and to be eaten off early for swedes. The practice of not allowing a farmer to sow two white straw crops in succession is as 104 childish as it is injurious ; in a farm of 400 acres the farmer is not as well off by £200 at the year's end. Supposing he is obliged to sow his barley, &c, after turnips and swedes, and the winter is wet, the sheep tread and poach the soil, and he may plough, drag, harrow, and roll from one week's end to the other and never get it in a fit state. He may use clod-crushers and all sorts of implements, and think he has got it fine at last, but no, he has broken it into small lumps, the same as the grocer does his sugar, or it may be as small as horse beans, or even shot. That is not pulverizing the soil. He is also engaged with his barley sowing when he ought to be preparing the land for his root crops, and tears his cattle all to pieces into the bargain. Besides, where is the field for the farmer to employ and exercise his talent if he is to be bound down and tethered in that manner, like a pig in a string ? If a farmer keeps his land clean, and pays his rent, and leaves a proper quantity of land for the necessary crops of the incoming tenant, that is and ought to be sufficient. Wheat also removes from the soil those substances which are likely to interfere with the production of good malting barley. On some soils the five-course system will answer best, viz.: — turnips, wheat, barley, seeds, and wheat ; or you may grow oats after the turnips, which will be best on some soils. The three-course system may be adopted with advantage on heavy wheat land, viz.: — wheat once in three years on a farm of 300 acres, 100 acres of wheat, next year 75 acres of oats, and 25 acres of swedes ; third year the 25 acres of swedes sown with turnips and rape, 25 acres of clover, where the wheat comes after the turnips and rape, and sown in the oats, 25 acres of vetches, and 25 acres of beans. On some farms, where the soil is rich and there is plenty of meadow land, the two-course system may be carried out, viz.: — wheat, next year green crops fed on the land, and those roots that are not fed off to be carted to the pasture land, and then sown with wheat, excepting those roots that are fed off late, or after March ; then sow oats. On some soils again you may grow half wheat, the next year half the wheat land into beans, the other half winter vetches fed off, then ploughed and cleaned during the summer afterwards, and then all into wheat again, changing the bean land every year. There must be a sufficient quantity of lime in the soil for the wheat plant to flourish well, and nothing will supply that desideratum more effectually than two green crops in succession. As regards the rotation of crops generally, no precise rule can be laid down ; it must mainly 105 depend on the neighbourhood, and the intention of the cultivator. Where the soil will grow white wheat, the best plan is to mix the seed, half white trump and half red Lammas, and sow it together. But when the soil is not suitable the red Lammas should be sown alone, it is the hardiest of any, excepting the golden drop, and will stand the severest frost ; it is very seldom that frost injures the wheat plant if sown on a firm seed bed. If the soil is very rich it will be advisable to sow the rough chaff. The red nursery is also a good sort to sow, and may be sown as late as February. The golden drop or red Broderick is a coarse sort of wheat, and not much liked by the miller, but yields the best of all the sorts; the grain is short and thick. Tou can grow quite two sacks to an acre more, and allow five shillings per sack less, viz.: — ten sacks of golden drop at 40s. per sack will be £20 per acre, whereas eight sacks at 45s. per sack will only produce £18 per acre. When the coarse wheat will make only 30s. per sack there is only £1 in favour of the coarse sort, and when it will only fetch 20s. per sack there is no difference per acre, clearly showing that it is more profitable to grow the coarse wheat when the price is high. No farm-yard manure of any sort should be applied immediately before the wheat crop, unless thoroughly rotten and decomposed, for it keeps the land hollow, and is a harbour for all sorts of insects. It should be applied some time previous, and thoroughly incorporated with the soil. The best method of preparing land for wheat is to put on all your manure for root and green crops, and none for the wheat. When too much manure is ploughed in of any sort at seed time, it is very apt to blight, especially on all calcareous soils. Guano may be used at seed time, if required, on hilly poor soils where you cannot get manure. If wheat is intended to follow beans the same autumn, manure for the bean crop and none for the wheat. By adopting that plan you will have no blight, if properly managed. Some farmers say they cannot grow good wheat after turnips ; why is it ? Because they plough it too deep, and the furrow is so tenacious from having been trodden with the sheep that it cannot be broken. Sow the wheat first, and then plough up in small furrows, six inches wide and about two inches in depth. Tour wheat will then be in its proper place (see "Sowing"). When land is ploughed so deep after turnips, how is it possible to work it all down ? There are lots of hollow places underneath, all over the field, and next harvest the cry will be, " Oh, I have got the white blight." The time of sowing must 10G depend on the temperature of the soil (see "Temperature"), which will be ruled in a great measure by the beat of tbe preceding summer. It must not be sown too soon, to get what is called "winter proud." About tbe middle of October is tbe time to begin sowing wbeat on good wheat soils and finish by the middle of November. On poor billy farms I should recommend a month earlier. Two bushels to an acre is about the proper quantity when tbe soil is in fair ordinary condition ; if poor, more seed, and if extra rich a little less may do, if sown very early. (On the poor hills you will require to sow three bushels.) You must increase the quantity as the sowing continues until you finish with about three bushels, unless, as before stated, when the land is in very high condition; then leave off with two bushels and a half. Always change your seed, and use blue vitriol dissolved in boiling water, one lb. of vitriol and one gallon of water for one sack of red wheat, and half a lb. of vitriol and tbe same quantity of water for one sack of white wheat. If you dress five or sis sacks of wheat together, you will not require quite as many gallons of water. It -should be turned over four or five times, and wet every corn ; leave it in a conical heap, and sweep up clean. If done over night it will be dry in the morning. The man who dresses the wheat should put on slippers, or be will bruise a great many of the corns. By changing your seed and following this plan you will not be troubled with smut. Always sow moderately thick, but not too thickly ; if it is a little too thick you can make it thinner more easily than you can make it thicker (for method of sowing, see " Sowing "). On some wet soils, in very wet weather, you will require a long pole, fasten the barrows to tbe pole with iron rings or hooks ; the middle ring or hook on tbe pole must be set higher than tbe outsides, or the middle barrow will pitch into the soil. Two oxen in one furrow and two in the other is the proper team for this purpose, for, in wet weather and on clay land, the horses will tread the furrows much worse than oxen. The lands or ridges should all be ploughed the same width — four yards, which will just take three full-sized harrows. When the weather is very wet you cannot harrow across, but it should be done when dry enough for tbe cattle to walk on the top. When the corn is well covered in, strike tbe land furrows, not too deep, and the water furrows deep enough, and dug out level and well with sufficient fall, every night as far as the sowing is completed. The end of every land furrow should be cleaned out for about a yard from the 107 water furrow. When there are a great many acres to sow, some farmers are anxious to plough up a great deal beforehand. If so I would recommend drilling the wheat in as deep as it was ploughed, using the drags first — no harrows until after the drill. The corners of the field should always be sown at the same time, having been previously prepared, not leave them as some farmers do until after all the sowing is done ; you will require a man then for a day or two and sometimes a week digging corners and sowing them. The corners are dug too deep, half the seed in among the holes underneath, the other half not properly buried, and before the man gets home the birds have had it, and all is labour in vain. Some farmers will say wheat ought not to be harrowed in the spring. Why do they say it ? Because it brings to light the hidden seeds of some previous negligence ; they ought to have been all vegetated and destroyed before the wheat was sown. Sometimes the late sown wheat, if rain comes immediately upon it, gets soil-bound, the same as cattle get hide-bound, and must be loosened before either can be healthy. The crust must be broken with the harrows, and rolled down directly ; if the soil is rough the roller must go before the harrows as well, or they will draw the clods over and expose the roots of the wheat to the March winds, and half of it will die. All wheat will undoubtedly be much benefitted by a time or two with the harrows, and rolled down immediately after. A wooden roller is best, with a joint in the middle to facilitate its turning. Out all thistles when high enough and not before, or they will send up three or four from one root; and pull all docks, &c. (Reaping, see " Reaping.") Carry in good condition, it will then come out in good condition ; just as you harvest it, so will it come out. In mating ricks or stacks manage to put about as much in one as will be thrashed in a day, and build two together, leaving room enough to set the machine between, which will save the trouble and expense of moving. All these little hindrances on a farm amount to a great deal in the course of a year. That which is in worst condition put on the staddles or rick stands, thatch directly, and guard against high winds; have them well pegged down with plenty of bands, made of oat straw or long grass. There is no necessity for buying tar twine unless you wish to appear particularly neat, for when you take in or thrash a rick one wants a bit for this or that purpose, setting or garden line, and another, and so on, and it all goes. Barley ricks may be made square, as there will not be 108 bo much outside when made in that shape ; and that which there is ought to be thrashed out with long sticks, or the birds will have it ; and if it remains it will get dark coloured and spoil the sample. Beans should be in long narrow ricks, and also oats. Peas should be in square ricks, if carried in good condition. Make all ricks where you intend to make use of the straw for fodder or manure. Some portion of the oat, barley, or pea crop should be harvested in the barn and adjoining your store cattle shed, where a man should thrash with the flail. The cattle will then be supplied fresh every day, and do much better than they will if the corn is thrashed and stacked up, for the sweetness will be lost and very little will be eaten. In conclusion, with regard to the wheat crop and its cultivation, grow as much, and as many acres as you can if the price is high and likely to continue ; if not, then sow more oats, and your land will get fresh for wheat. If the price keeps high and your land gets tired of wheat, sow red wheat one time and white wheat the next. If those rules are attended to, I have no doubt there will always be a regular plant, and a fair crop. If a crop of any sort loses plant, and gets thin, the farmer should not rest, until he has found out the cause. There must be one, and it is to be found. We all know some farms are more adapted for growing wheat than others, and in fact corn crops generally, and others are more suitable for flocks of sheep, which should then occupy the principal attention of the farmer. Breed and rear as many as you can, and not keep too many together in one flock. On some rich soils wheat and beans may be grown every alternate year. If a small quantity of land, and near a large town, next to growing vegetables the most profitable way will be to grow half wheat, the other half roots to sell, and buy manure for that crop. The cause of the failure in the lower part of the ear, in wheat, which is so frequently complained of, I consider is attributable to the coldness of the season, when emerging from its sheath or covering, the lower part of the ear remaining confined too long and losing its vitality. In a thoroughly propitious wheat growing season, a great many defects in the soil and sowing may pass unnoticed. To conclude, the health of the wheat plant depends principally on the situation of the seed in the soil at the sowing season, as stated above. Some farmers may argue it cannot be performed in very wet weather, then plough the land at a proper depth, drive the horses or oxen out of the furrow, if possible, and one man to follow each plough, and sow the seed in the furrow ; it will then be in its proper place 109 at seed time, and proper position at harvest. There is one more important feature connected with the cultivation of wheat, viz.: — that if it should prove to be a late harvest it often gets too ripe, and a great deal is lost. If we ourselves live to a great age, we generally go off quickly at last, and the harvest in like manner does the same, especially wheat. Two days' hot sun in August will ripen corn more than a week in the beginning of July, there- fore always commence soon enough. White Blight. — (See " Sowing.") Willow; golden or yellow willow. — Plant a few where con- venient, for tying up garden trees, &c. Plant cuttings about half way down the side of a ditch, allow them to stand out of the ground about six inches, and then when the old stools appear to be worn out cut them off in order to renovate them. Be careful in planting the sets not to disturb the bark, or they will not grow. Wind. — Be always on the look out for rough and high winds, if your farm is in an exposed situation. A farmer's eye should be as quick as lightning. The least possible appearance of thatch moving should be stopped immediately, for it will get worse every minute. I have known nearly a whole rick blown in all directions. Windows, or small doors in the barns, should always be kept locked. It is not sufficient that they are fastened with a stick or pin ; with a bit of wire they may be opened and fastened again from the outside. Wine. — Among the many useful sorts of wine a farmer can make without much expense are honey wine, elder-berry wine, parsnip wine, black currant and raspberry mixed, and damson wine. The latter sort, with a few black currants and elder-berries, makes a delicious wine, and is not- inferior to middling port. Winnowing. — As all sorts of corn and seeds cannot be winnowed from the machine, and some others are thrashed with the flail, care should be taken.to make the sample of one uniform quality through- out, and all tailing to be saved until all that sort is finished ; then winnow over the tailing and make as much of the best quality as you can, and a few sacks of the next lot to sell with it, or the buyer will think it is all tailing ; and all the rest to be ground up for cattle and pigs, excepting the very worst, which may go for the poultry. The tailing from barley and oats should be kept until spring, winnow all over, and sell for seed ; it should be turned once a week. 110 Winter. — Take care of all store cattle in the winter : well wintered, half summered, and so on. Shelter from all cold winds; attend to the manure in the yards, and see that it is well mixed. Cart manure, chalk, gravel, ashes, &c. Withies. — See that no stagnant water remains. (Cultivation of withies for rods, see " Osiers;" for pollard trees, see " Trees.") X. Xebaphthaxmy is a dry soreness of the eyes, which is some- times found in young cattle, and may be cured by an appHcation of ointment made of one-tenth powdered sal ammoniac and nine- tenths hogs' lard. Y. Yards. — All farm yards should have a sound and healthy bottom, or much loss will be sustained, the cattle will not be healthy, the manure wasted, and waste of horse-flesh in carting manure away. When straw is scarce and cannot be procured, it may be advisable to pitch the yards all over in ridges, with tanks to preserve the liquid manure. Tew. — The yew will grow on any soil, wet or dry, rich or poor ; it makes a very neat hedge for a garden, and is very useful in large lawns and gardens, as a hedge here and there for breaking high winds, when a wall would look unsightly and stiff. But great care must be taken of the clippings, for they are poisonous to both man and beast. The wood has proved fatal to three of our kings, — Harold, at the battle of Hastings ; William II., in the New Forest, Hampshire; and Richard Cceur de Lion; all slain by arrows discharged from bows made of this wood. Zoology is the natural history of the animal kingdom, of which every farmer should have a knowledge, to assist him in crossing the different breeds of cattle, sheep, pigs, horses, &c. APPENDIX A. DISEASES OF HORSES ; CATTLE, &c. HORSES. Gbnebai Health. — To keep cart horses in good health give each horse three doses of sulphur with a little nitre, three days to intervene between each dose, every spring and autumn. Every Saturday night each horse should have a cold bran mash with half an ounce of powdered yellow resin and a quarter of an ounce of dry powdered tobacco mixed ; and with a few old beans all the year round, and rock salt to lick, a multitude of diseases will be prevented, especially worms, colds, and coughs. Resin will not mix well with any liquid except milk. Colic. — Give three ounces of oil of turpentine and one ounce of tincture of opium in a pint of warm ale. If relief is not soon obtained, repeat half of the dose with an addition of one ounce of Barbadoes aloes, dissolved in hot water. Clysters should be fre- quently administered, and the animal should be well rubbed under the belly. In very severe cases get woollen rugs or blankets and plenty of boiling water; dip ithem in and hold them under the horse's belly, keeping one in the water at the same time. If the horse will not bear the rubbing, and his eara are cold, he has inflammation in the bowels ; you had better then send for the veterinary surgeon at once. 112 Wobms. — Give two drachms tartar emetic and one scruple of ginger ; make into a ball with linseed meal and treacle, and give one every morning one hbur before feeding time. To prevent horses from breeding worms, give them dry powdered tobacco once a week. There is one sort of worm to be got rid of by an injection of a quart of linseed oil and yellow resin. Side Bones in cart horses are occasioned by the awkward custom of carters pushing horses backwards when turning too short. Horses were intended to go forwards, not backwards ; and it may be almost invariably avoided ; for horses are almost sure to bruise one foot with the other when put in that unnatural position, especially in frosty weather, and that is the cause. Ring Bone, ob Qttitor, is pretty much the same in nag horses as side bones are in cart horses. The principal cause of the former is from being sold too dear, and the free use of a small hammer between the hair and hoof. The latter is caused by an accidental tread which the horse inflicts upon itself in endeavouring to avoid falling, in slippery weather. The former may be relieved by firing, &o.. but cannot be cured. The latter may be cured by paring the side of the hoof thin enough to take off the pressure of the diseased part down to the shoe, which must be taken off; cut open the seat of complaint, and syringe with sulphate of zinc ; poultice and wait patiently for a new hoof to that part which was rasped away. Sal ammoniac finely powdered is the safest and best, application for inflammation in the eye, with a gentle dose of physic. Wet the tip of your second finger in your mouth, dip it in the powder, take up the smallest possible quantity and draw it along the edge of the lower eyelid every night. But if proper attention be paid to the stables, rack, &c, and not to keep horses with blue eyes, there will never be anything serious the matter. Cobns are brought on by allowing gravel, grit, &c, to remain underneath the shoe ; horses in their natural state are never subject to them. Mabe and Foai, when first turned out to grass, should be brought in every night (if it is early in the season), and fed with a few old beans for the first month. Some people often complain of losing their colts if the weather is cold and wet, and say they catch a chill. It is the mare that gets the chill, the colt sucks it away from the mother, and dies from inflammation of the bowels. If cart horses are fed with a few old beans all the year round, rock salt 113 to lick, and a little tobacco now and then, and a comfortable yard at night, with good soft water, there will not be much for the farrier to do. Stbangles. — All young horsea are subject to strangles. Turn into a loose box, blister the throat, bring the diseased part to a head and lance it, then dress the sore with common ointment. Keep the horse cool with bran mashes, a little nitre, and sulphur, and take care he does not catch cold again, or the second attack will be much worse, and if a nag, he will probably become an incurable roarer. Poll Evil is always produced by some blow, and generally by the horse striking his head against the lower edge of the manger, which should be boarded down to the floor to prevent further mischief. Open the tumour by means of a seton, which should be passed in at the top, penetrate through the bottom, and pass out at the side of the neck just below the abscess ; wash with warm water night and morning, and keep the part clean, and dress the seton with ointment composed of four ounces of hogs' lard, four ounces of strained turpentine, and one ounce of verdigris. Hoof. — To keep the hoof soft and tough, use equal parts of tar and oil of turpentine with a brush night and morning. Bboken Wind is incurable. If you intend to keep an animal of that sort, he must be fed on oats and carrots ; never work him on a foil stomach, and always keep water by him. He must not be allowed any other sort of food, winter or summer. He may have a very little green meat in the summer, until carrots are ready again. Bleeding. — Every farmer, or any person that keeps a horse, should know how and when to bleed, for if done when required it ' will often avert a dangerous illness. Always use a large-bladed fleam ; a little blood rapidly abstracted will produce more valuable effect than a large quantity gradually drawn. Dbenching. — When you drench a horse do not hold the horn as some people do, in the same manner as they would use a carving knife, but hold it as you do your pen when you write, and with a neat turn of the wrist empty the contents. Keep the horse's head held high, and if he persists in retaining any portion of the drench in his mouth, give him a smart slap on the nose. 114 Bails. — When yon give any horse a ball, the head must not be held too high, and the ball held firmly with the tips of the three middle fingers, the thumb and the little finger brought together in the palm of the hand ; use no sticks. For a mild purgative dose use — Barbadoes aloes, six drachms Spirits of turpentine, one drachm. For strong dose take — Barbadoes aloes, eight drachms Hard soap, four drachms Ginger, one drachm Oil of carraway, six drops. Astringent ball, for looseness, for one dose- Powdered opium, one drachm Powdered ginger, one drachm and a half Prepared chalk, three drachms Flour, two drachms. Mix treacle enough to form a ball. Swelled Legs frequently occur in young horses that are over- fed, and have little exercise, in others they are sometimes induced from bad living, and are the result of debility. The horse should have a mild dose or two of physic ; apply wet flannel bandages, and keep them wet ; if allowed to get dry, they will do more harm than good, especially when a horse is lame from a sprain in the sinews, for if the bandage gets dry the leg becomes hot, which will relax the sinews, and we want to contract them. Friction by hand-rubbing should be used before the bandage. Regular diet (not too much) and regular exercise, with a mild dose or two of physic will generally eflect a cure. Grease is attributable to bad management. Horses come out of the stable in the morning with their heels hot, they get wet, and are never rubbed dry. When horses' legs are washed they should be always rubbed perfectly dry. The first appearance is usually a dry and scurfy state of the skin of the heel, with redness, heat and irritation. Wash the heel out well with soft soap and warm water, rub thoroughly dry, and apply ointment — sugar of lead, one drachm, and one ounce of lard, mix and rub gently in. If any cracks appear use a little lotion first, four drachms of alum in one pint of water, a little blue vitriol may be added, about half a drachm. 115 Spbains. — After the inflammation is a little subsided by the application of wet bandages, the leg should be pumped upon twice a day, or if you have a stream of water near, pen the water back, dig a place for the horse to stand, and allow the water to run with all the available force you can for half an hour, or less if the horse cannot bear it. Sand Graces should not be neglected ; firing should be resorted to at once, in, above, and below the cracks. Thbtjsh is always the result of negligence. Wash well twice a day with a solution of blue vitriol, then apply an ointment of lard four ounces, melt and stir in one ounce of oil of turpentine, and one ounce of powdered Spanish flies until cold. Smear the oint- ment on a piece of tow and insert it in the wound, and pass a splint or two of wood under the shoe to keep it in place. The following ointment may also be used : — Half an ounce of prepared calamine Half an ounce of verdigris Half a drachm of alum Half a drachm of sulphate of zinc Three ounces of tar, Saddle Galls may be prevented in a great measure if proper attention is paid when the saddle is taken ofi"; there should be a small cloth of some sort (but it ought to be woollen) thrown over the back, in order that the back may cool by degrees. A strong solution of common salt, with a fourth part of tincture of myrrh is the best application either for saddle galls or sore shoulders. Some horses are predisposed to saddle and collar galls, in which case there should be a strong cloth, a little larger than the saddle, put next the back and secured to the saddle by means of a strap to buckle on over the under flap and under the straps of the girths. For the shoulder there should be a false collar of single leather, to be put on before the other. " Sitfasts " are produced by the hinder part of the saddle, when not properly stuffed, and when men will persist in riding on the back part of the saddle with the whole weight of their body. The proper place for the rider is in the middle of the saddle or nearly so, and one-third of the rider's weight should be carried with the thighs. He should sit perfectly upright, but not too stiffly, for you may get thrown over the horse's head, or perhaps injure the animal's back. The i2 11X5 rider's back should be as elastic as a piece of whalebone, and always ready at a moment's notice to bend outwards, and drop the chest when the horse attempts to kick. The hand should be as light as a lady's playing the harp ; turn the palm of the hand towards the horse's neck ; if a double rein bridle, draw your fingers along the reins, let the first or near rein be outside the little finger, and one between each of the others, the last rein will then come between the second and first finger ; turn all the reins over your first finger towards the horse's head, turn the back of your hand to the left, place your thumb on the top of all the reins, and hold, or rather lightly carry your hand about five or six inches over the pommel of the saddle, feel the bit, but not the mouth. Ctjeb, to be cured by firing. Splint. — Do not interfere. Bone Spavin, cured by firing. Inflammation of the Bowels. — Every farmer ought to be judge enough to discriminate between it and the colic, for if he should administer active purgative medicine when there is violent inflammation of the bowels it may probably prove fatal. Con- stipation is the effect of inflammation, and not the cause. The symptoms are, legs and ears cold, pulse weak, small, and rapid, the attack very gradual ; the horse lies down and suddenly rises up again, seldom rolling on his back ; pain increased by the belly being rubbed. When you are satisfied the horse is thus attacked, bleed largely and rapidly, give a full dose of opium, blister the belly all over, well hand-rub the legs, and bandage up as high as possible with dry flannel bandages, turn him into a loose box, and send for the surgeon. In addition to the above symptoms, there are a few others that clearly indicate inflammation, viz.: — constipation, hurried respiration, redness of the eyes and nostrils, heat of the mouth, and continuous groaning. The symptoms of colic are, pulse natural during the intervals of ease, rarely quicker, although somewhat fuller, the attack comes on suddenly and is never preceded by fever. The horse will lie down and roll upon his back, legs and ears are about the natural temperature ; the pain is relieved by motion and rubbing the belly. ErOAEiNO is often the result of neglected strangles and sometimes arises from malformation of the larynx, but generally from horses' heads being pulled about, and reined up out of their natural position. 117 It is incurable, but it may always be prevented, unless there is malformation. Eoll up a piece of music or any other stiff paper into a pipe, about an inch and a quarter in diameter, and bend it across your knee ; you will then perceive the cause of many a roarer. In like manner are horses' windpipes served. Of course they are not bent to that sharp angle as the paper is, but there is a soreness and irritation produced in some place by pulling the head out of its natural position. Irritation continues, inflammation creeps on, for it is out of sight, and the seat of disease very small, ossification follows, and what have you now ? An incurable roarer. If a horse cannot, or is not allowed to carry his own head, then by all means put him into a cart. Bridle Sores. — Tincture of myrrh, diluted with an equal quantity of water, will soon put all right. Lampas. — 'The lower bars of young horses sometimes are much inflamed. Draw a penknife across in four or five places, give a mild dose of physic, and feed on bran mashes for a few days. Glanders. — If any horse is supposed to have the glanders, send him away from the premises at once, and send for the veterinary surgeon. If a horse has a continuous running at the nose, the membrane of which keeps of a blue or lead colour, and is constantly losing flesh, with no cough, the discharge transparent and sticky, and running from the left or near nostril, you may be sure the horse is affected with the disease. Farcy, like glanders, springs from infection, or bad stable management. The horse will sometimes at night appear perfectly well, and in the morning one leg will be three times the size of the other; the head, and particularly the muzzle, will swell, the heels will crack, and a stinking discharge runs from the nose. Send him at once away from all other horses, and send for the surgeon. As every farmer should have a stock of poles, posts, piles, and tools, he may with a man or two soon knock up a shed in the corner of some field ; nail hurdles up round the sides, and thatch over. There ought to be a loose box or two right away from the premises for cattle or horses that may happen to be affected with any contagious disease. The hot and poisoned air of low, narrow, and confined stables, is one of the roost prevalent causes of farcy and glanders. Yellow resin and tobacco powdered in cold mashes on Saturday night will generally prevent these distressing maladies. 118 Fistulous Withebs are brought on by continuous pressure of the saddle at that point. Care should be taken that the pressure is equal all over the saddle. The treatment for poll evil is equally applicable to fistulous withers. Inflammation of the Lungs proceeds from sudden exposure to the cold, and from being kept too warm in close, ill ventilated stables, and also from too much clothes being heaped on, in order, as they term it, to produce a fine coat, with a sleek appearance. The horse stands with his fore legs wide apart, and will not lie down excepting for a minute or two ; he then rises again, and per- sists in standing, to the last ; legs and ears get colder, and he lies down, struggles, and dies. On the first appearance bleed as rapidly and largely as possible, shave the whole of the chest, or brisket, and blister it all over with strong blistering ointment, made thus : — turpentine ointment, two pounds, heat it and make soft, then stir in and well mix ten ounces of powdered cantharides, one ounce of powdered resin, and two ounces of euphorbium in fine powder. Rub in as much as will be required to raise a good blister, well rub all his legs, and woollen bandages to follow on all legs up to the body, turn him into a loose box, and send for the veterinary surgeon. Give no medicine until he comes, nor castor oil ; it may do very well for a human being, but it is not fit for the horse in this case. Great care must be taken for some time after, if the horse rebovers, or the animal's wind will get thick, and ultimately he will become broken-winded ; and this is one of the many causes of broken-wind, although there are a great many become so through bad management, such as turning a horse into a straw yard, and allowing him' to eat more than he can properly digest, or into a meadow where there is too much grass, and also working him on a full stomach. No valuable horse should be allowed free access to coarse indigestible food. Some carters cannot be brought to think the horses have had hay enough unless they always find some left in the rack. No horse should be allowed as much as he can eat, especially hay ; and many horses will eat for amusement, and nothing else. Bronchitis is an inflammation of the mucous membrane of the air-passages, and is the result of sudden exposure to cold. Tartar emetic and digitalis are useful remedies, and the chest should be slightly blistered. Colds. — Give horses cold bran mashes in health and before physic, but after medicine and during colds, &c, they should be 119 hot. The best recipe for a common cold for horse, or man, is bran tea, and to hold the head over a large bncket-ful of sweet meadow hay, with boiling water poured over it. To make one pint of bran tea, pour enough boiling water on one gallon of fresh bran, and sweeten with honey ; the bran should be closely covered over and remain by the fire for one hour. Chronic Cough is also the result of inflammation, and frequently proceeds from over-feeding, especially after a long journey, eating too much hay, and often from being kept in the stable tied up, and eating the litter for amusement for three or four days together, and perhaps a week. The horse is, so to speak, a thoughtful animal ; if he never, or rarely goes out, he is always thinking of eating ; if he goes out regularly every day, he looks forward with pleasure until the time arrives, for he enjoys society and going out as much as the rider, if he is kindly treated. Therefore the horse should have plenty of air, daily exercise, and good wholesome food ; enough, and not too much. His thoughts will then be properly occupied, instead of thinking so much about eating, and this will also prevent a multitude of disorders, distempers, and diseases. Never allow your horses any brans, pollards, or any description of millers' offal in a dry state, unless you wish to breed millstones. Why do millers require so often to have their millstones dressed ? Because they become smooth and lose their roughness. And where does that roughness go to ? Where ? Into the offal in the shape of grit, which being of a heavier body than the light and wholesome food which the horse ought to have, does not pass all together, but settles down in some part of the animal's stomach or bowels, and, like a snowball, gathers more and more, until it is too large and cannot possibly pass. If horses are continually fed with dry offal these results will surely follow. To prevent chronic cough give a few brans, in the form of a cold mash, every Saturday night, which will be found beneficial for all working horses. Yellow resin powdered and tobacco, of each half an ounce, should also be mixed with the mash, beginning with half the quantity for the first two weeks. The Age op a Horse is generally known by his mouth. The horse has forty teeth — twelve in front, six above and six below, twenty-four grinders, six above and six below on each side, and four tusks, which are wanting in the mare. When a colt is foaled he has no teeth in front ; in a few days two above and two below 120 make their appearance ; soon after four others appear ; it is now usually three or four months before the corner teeth make their appearance. These twelve colt's teeth continue without alteration until the colt is two years, or two years and, a half old ; he then begins to lose his colt's teeth for permanent ones. At about two years and a half old he sheds the two middle teeth of the six on the lower jaw, and these are succeeded by two permanent or horse teeth, grooved or fluted from top to bottom, with a black cavity in the centre. He is now rising three. His mouth continues thus until some time in the latter part of the fourth year, when the same process takes place with two other teeth, one on each side of the two middle ones, with the same black mark in the centre. The next he sheds are the two remaining or corner teeth. When he has got the successors to these his mouth is full, the black mark appears in all six front teeth, and he is five years old. During the course of this year the tusks situated upon the bars beyond the corner teeth appear, and he is now rising six. Sometime in the last six months of the sixth year the black cavities of the two middle teeth are gradually filled up, and when he is turned six years old they are nearly or quite smooth upon the surface. In the latter part of the, seventh year the teeth on each side of the two centre ones become gradually possessed of the same appearance; and when he is seven years old the two outside corner teeth are only marked with the black cavity. When he is eight years old the marks are all gone, and the horse is called " aged." The upper teeth will then be some guide, as they do not fill up so soon ; grey hairs shoot up upon the forehead and lower parts of the mouth, the lower lip hangs below the upper, the eye becomes sunken, and eyelids get lean and wrinkled. Some jockeys will hollow out the lower teeth (when the mark is gone) and produce a cavity as before, and make the black mark by means of a hot wire, but a quick eye will at once perceive the yellow tinge outside the black mark, which the hot wire always leaves. Hills. — Always be careful in going down hills. See that the chain of your drag bat is long enough, as well as strong, or it will be more harm than good. CATTLE. Difficulty in Calving. — Give two quarts of gruel and one quart of strong ale, warm. To assist the after-birth give the following drink: — three quarts of milk simmered over the fire; mix 121 oatmeal enough, with a little cold milk to make a strong gruel; when done, add one quart of strong ale, and one pound and a half of treacle, and carefully incorporate the whole by stirring. Give it lukewarm; after the first hornful they will probably drink it. "OtrT of Season," as it is called, is generally the result of im- proper feeding. Sometimes the pastures become very bare, they are then turned into an abundance of feed, or from sour pasture to sweet; or from the cattle being out of condition, and then too rapidly improving; from violent exercise, when the pastures are a long way from home, and then perhaps feeding near home they have none and are comparatively quiet. The man who goes after the cows for milking drives them as fast as he can, especially after milking if he is in a hurry to go somewhere. At another time and perhaps for several weeks they go their own pace. All these sudden alterations should be avoided. Plenty of good wholesome water should also be provided in every feeding meadow for all dairy cows, and they should be kept in one uniform good and fair condi- tion all the year round. Take care to always save hay, more or less, for in the cold nights and mornings which we frequently have in May the cows will require a mouthful or two. Take care also in the autumn ; when the weather begins to get cold they must have a little hay, ever so small a quantity will prevent a deal of mischief. When the dairy cows come into the yards, look well to the cribs, that they have not to strain to reach after their food, and if square cribs in the middle of the yard there should be only room for two cows. They should also have free access to rock salt, which must be preserved from the rain. The dairyman's eye should be ever watchful, especially during the summer months. Of course he ought to see with one glance of the eye if a cow is milked clean, or not. He must also watch the cows, if one, or two, or more should turn; after all that has been stated, has been attended to, shut her up and keep her on cold bran mashes, with just a handful of hay while being milked, and change the sire from youth to age, or vice versa. A strong dose of Epsom salts, or ground ginger, and half an ounce of powdered resin in the cold mashes, according to the state of the animal. In the absence of old age, or malformation of some part, the cause may generally be found to be attributable to some mismanagement. If the calf is intended to be fattened, the cow should be fed with mangold wurtzel morning and evening, while the calf is sucking; he will be fit for the butcher at least a fortnight earlier. The calf should also have chalk to lick, to coun- 122 teract the acidity of the milk, and prevent scour, and the meat will also be much whiter. When a farmer intends to wean calves, he should manage for them to fall as soon after Christmas as possible, or they will require great attention during the whole of summer; and they are never so good when they fall late in the spring. Every week is of the greatest importance. Never wean an ill-bred animal, you will have the same trouble as with one that is well-bred. If you wean your own calves, you will of course know how they are bred, but if you buy, the muzzle should be perfectly clear, and white, a bright full eye, soft mellow skin, hip bones to stand high and wide, level with the chine, tail the same, and long from the hip to the setting on of the tail. Select them if you can all one colour viz: — strawberry, blue, or red roan, not dark blue or purple. If you wish to wean Herefords, in addition to the above points, see that the whole of the head is perfectly white, and a little white on the top of the neck and terminating just behind the shoulders. No red rims round the eyes ; they will see none the better for having spectacles. The whole of the body should be of a rich red colour excepting the belly, which should be white. As regards profit, the breeding and rearing of young cattle stands next in order to the dairy, therefore always be careful to wean that which is well- bred. There should be a large roomy house or barn for the calves, and there should not be more than ten together. Take them away from the cow when about ten days old, give them fresh milk twice a day, until they can eat oil-cake and old beans split, then skimmed milk will do, and lastly they will do with whey. They should always have chalk to lick, and rock salt; swedes and mangold cut very small with sweet hay ought also to be given. Every farmer should have an orchard, and that is where the calves should be turned as soon as the weather is warm enough, about the middle of March. There ought to be a large roomy shed in the orchard, opening only at the south end, for warmth in cold weather, and shelter from flies in hot weather. Give them plenty of water, in whioh throw a few Glauber^ salts once a week, after having been dissolved in hot water. If the grass gets short and scarce in the orchard towards the latter end of summer, they can be turned into a larger meadow, no aftermath, but they must be protected from the sun, and flies. As soon as the foggy nights commence in October they must be brought home every night, and shut up in a warm sheltered yard, or they will all fall down with the hoose. If any should be affected with this disease, bleed 123 directly and dose them with Epsom salts. The following powder for each one in warm gruel should be given every second day : — Nitre, three drachms Resin, quarter of an ounce Tartar emetic, half a drachm Powdered foxglove, half a drachm. Give them warm bran mashes, warm gruels to drink, and keep them in a warm but well ventilated house, ventilation to be at least from eight to ten feet above the animal. Inflamed Uddees should be bathed with a hot decoction made of chicken-wort, groundsel, a little common salt, and hogs' lard. If the inflammation runs along the belly (for that is its road if not stopped), cut a place or two a little beyond the diseased part, rub in salt for a day or two, and give a strong dose of physic. Hot ,wood ashes and milk will sometimes effect a cure when well rubbed in. lNri.AMMA.TioN of Lungs, Bowbls, &c, see " Diseases of Horses." Scouring in Calves. — Give prepared chalk half an ounce, opium two grains, powdered resin half a drachm, milk half a pint, boil and add a little mutton suet ; twice a day. Diabbhxea in Cattle is brought on by sudden and improper change of food, and exposure to wet and cold after over-driving. The animal must be brought in, kept warm and dry, and fed on dry food for a few days, and the following mixture must be given. Powdered chalk, eight drachms Powdered catechu, two drachms Opium, two scruples Yellow resin, half an ounce Thin gruel, one pint. The same mixture may be given to a horse. Hoven, ob Blown. — Two ounces of carbonate of ammonia in a quart of rain or distilled water will often give relief ; if not the probang should be introduced; hold the animal's head perfectly straight and the mouth up a little, rub on a little grease, and introduce the instrument slowly and carefully. It generally occurs when cattle are turned into aftermath with an empty stomach, or it may happen in the early spring when the wind is cold from the north, east, or north-east, and when the cattle are empty. The Cold winds increase the appetite, and they eat with greater avidity 124 than when the wind is in the south, or west. Read's patent syringe should always be kept on a farm to draw the contents from the animal's stomach when the probang fails to give relief ; after either of the above performances give a quarter of a pint of rum and a pint of castor oil for full grown cattle. Quarter Evil, or Joint Murrain, is the result of sudden change from inferior keep to rich pasturage in a rich locality, for cattle are never affected with this disease on poor soils. You will soon ascertain in the neighbourhood if the cattle are subject to the disease in this or that field ; if so, do not allow them any water, excepting what you give them in a trough placed near the pond, which pond must be fenced round. From two to four ounces of Glauber salts, one ounce of nitre, and half a drachm of powdered or liquid foxglove should be dissolved in hot water for each head of cattle, and stirred in with the cold water in the trough 'twice a week for the first three weeks at grass. After that time once a week will be sufficient, which must be continued until October. The cattle should be kept rather short of water previous to the mixture being given, to induce them all to drink it off at once as near as can be. If the cattle will not drink the water, mix the ingredients with cold bran mashes, and then half an ounce of powdered resin may be added. The trough should be large enough for all the cattle to drink at once, and a layer of fresh wood ashes should cover the bottom about two inches in thickness, and be changed once a week. If this plan is adopted there will not be much to fear. On the first appearance of this disease bleed all directly, give from ten to eighteen ounces of Epsom salts, according to the size of the animal, and send for the veterinary surgeon as quickly as possible. The first symptoms are expanded nostrils, red and protruding eyes, extended neck, with the head in a horizontal position, muzzle dry, and pulse up to 65 or 70 ; the natural pulse is from 35 to 40, viz.: — about half as fast as a man when in full vigour. Loss or the Cud is caused by a disarrangement of the digestive organs, and loss of appetite from eating or drinking too much. Give two drachms of aloes, two tea-spoonfuls of pepper, quarter of an ounce of resin, quarter of a pint of gin, and one pint of thin gruel. Free access to rock salt will generally prevent. Inflammation op the Liver, or " Yellows." — Free access to rock salt will generally, if not always prevent. Should there be 125 the least indication of inflammatory action, bleed immediately, and give one sixth part of the following recipe every morning, in one quart of gruel, until the animal finds relief: — Barbadoes aloes, twelve drachms Hard soap, twelve drachms Emetic tar, half a drachm Ginger, half an ounce Powdered resin, one drachm Oil of carraway, one drachm Treacle, two pounds Mix all together. Red Water is attributable to the peculiarity of the soil, so some people assert. I am of opinion that that peculiarity of soil can be remedied by thorough drainage, and a good dressing of chalk, with free access to rock salt. The best remedy for this disease is blood-letting, yellow resin, and spirits of turpentine. Black water is only the latter stage of the former disease. One scruple of powdered foxglove and two drachms of powdered resin in a cold mash once a week will generally prevent. Milk Fever, or Inflammation of the Womb, is produced generally from want of sufficient exercise (when the cow is in high condition) before calving. Farmers, and in fact every one, should remember that all animals require a certain amount of exercise during the term of gestation, according to the condition of the animal ; if very high, the exercise must not be more violent, but of longer duration. The only remedies that can be employed are bleeding, mild laxative medicine, and a clyster. Proof Worms, or Warbles, are created by the bite of a fly, which lodges one of its eggs in the part Jjitten. A worm is created from this egg, and its irritation produces a tumour. When cattle are thus attacked it indicates an impure state of the blood from some previous mismanagement. They may be cured by an appli- cation of strong sulphur ointment, rubbed into the tumour, or by the introduction of a hot wire. If young store cattle, they may be transported for a week or two into a bare pasture or poor common and the tumours will soon disappear. Lick. — When cattle are so affected they should be turned into good but rather short pasture, which would involve plenty of exercise ; strong tobacco water should be rubbed in once a day. It 126 is generally the result of improper feeding and exposure to wet and cold. Wabts. — Cut them off close to the roots, let the part bleed freely, bathe with a solution of blue vitriol, then fasten on a bit of sponge dipped in a little tincture of myrrh. Foul in the Foot sometimes comes on of itself, but is often the effect of accident. The foot should he washed every night and morning with soft soap and warm water ; rub dry , then bathe for a short time with four ounces of blue vitriol dissolved in one pint of boiling water, then with half a pint of the vitriol water, when cool, add three tea-spoonfuls of butter of antimony and two tea- spoonfuls of tincture of myrrh, shake it well together, and apply with a feather. Put on a poultice of horse and cow dung, each two pounds, and half a pound of tar. Soee and Inflamed Teats. — Wash well with hot fresh wood ashes and hot milk mixed together ; then rub in two ounces of goose grease and one tea-spoonful of tincture of myrrh mixed. Broken Hoen. — Get ready some good thin tar, stir in a little tincture of myrrh ; also get ready bandages one yard in length, and three inches wide, of coarse sheeting, spread on the tar one side and bind round as quickly as possible. When you have bound sufficiently to stop the blood, put on one more bandage, dipped in boiling pitch. Wounds from Gobing.— First probe the extent and direction of the wound with a small candle ; then get ready some fine tow well beaten and free from every particle of dust. (All farmers should keep a stock of tow, tar, pitch, and tincture of myrrh; and in fact a little of everything should be kept on a farm, especially when at a distance from ^, veterinary surgeon.) Then with the following ointment dress the tow and insert in the wound, draw it out as long as the wound, and allow the end to hang out a little; use the candle as before : — Ointment of yellow resin, four ounces Nitrie oxide of mercury, finely powdered, one ounce Turpentine, one ounce. IVri-g well together. Embrocation toe Bbuises oe Swellings. ^Use equal parts of turpentine, hartshorn, and camphorated spirit, with the addition of « little sweet oil or soap liniment. 127 Sobe and Inflamed Eyes. — Apply an ointment made with a little sulphate of zine, sal ammoniac, and hogs' lard ; draw a small portion (melted on the tip of your second finger) along the lower eyelid. Mange is produced by improper feeding in the winter time. Give opening drenches, place in a field with bare pasture, and anoint with the following liniment, all places once a day : — Train oil, ten ounces Spirits of turpentine, three ounces and a half Sulphur, four ounces Eesin, two ounces. If this should prove ineffectual, wash the parts well with soft soap and warm water ; wipe dry, and slightly touch the parts first with the following lotion : — Sal ammoniac, half an ounce Spirits of salt, half an ounce Corrosive sublimate, two drachms Dissolved in fifteen ounces of water. Hoose on Husk, in young cattle, is caused from their remaining out -too late in the autumn in cold, damp, and foggy situations. They should be brought in at night to a comfortable shed, and fed with a small quantity of hay or cake. In some situations dairy cows are tormented with flies ; they run about, get hot, seek for cool shade, and the consequence is violent chill and loss of milk. When the weather is hot and the fly troublesome, the herdsman should watch and see that they do not stay too long in the shade, nor drink too much water. If cattle, through neglect, should be so afflicted, the chill drinks prepared by Mr. Baverstock, Wootton, Bassett, Wilts, are most efficacious in restoring the animal to health, but with a watchful eye it may always be prevented. Sometimes cows are brought into a closely confined yard to be milked where a breath of air does not exist and with a temperature of 90 degrees and upwards. They are turned out, perhaps a cold wind blowing from the north, or east, get underneath trees or at the north side of some building, and with a temperature not more than 60 degrees ; a violent chill will often be the result. When suoh is the case they should be quietly walked out of the yard, and not allowed to stand about until they reach the sheltered side of their feeding pastures ; they will then cool down by degrees, and 128 commence feeding. For hooae, husk, or cold in young cattle give One table-spoonful of camphorated spirit of wine, and Two table-spoonfuls of turpentine. This disease also may be always prevented. Low marshy meadows, where fogs rise in the nightj are unhealthy for all young cattle. They may be allowed to feed in the day time, but must not remain there during the night. The disease may sometimes be cured in its early stage by the ordinary drinks from the druggist. Diseases of the Bttll. — To prevent these keep him in a loose box, in fair condition, and the same man to attend him, who should use firmness with kindness. All animals know by the tone of the voice what sort of a humour we are in ; therefore we should only speak harshly when the animal is in disgrace, and at every other time as softly as possible ; and this I consider to be the principal Becret in taming all animals. Mr. Rarey's plan may be sometimes necessary, especially for oxen, and horses or colts. It may not, perhaps, be out of place to mention the plan adopted by that gentleman in taming horses, which is equally applicable to the bull or ox, as I have performed it myself on an ox when all other means failed to tame him. In the first place, if he is very savage, I should recommend a ring in his nose. Be careful how you halter him, and do it patiently ; have two long strong reins, two men on one side and two on the other, and keep his head perfectly straight. Get ready a strong thick leather strap, three inches wide, to buckle round his neck where the collar is worn, with a strong iron ring to hang at his breast and on the strap. You will then require a strap about the size of a stirrup leather, take up the near leg as soon as you can (but be patient) — the near leg of the ox is the same as the horse — and buckle the fetlock round (the buckle should be double), turn the strap back and buckle the foot up close and firmly to the inside or hinder part of the arm ; the animal should now be made to run or hop round until nearly exhausted. Watch your oppor- tunity, and with a strong rope, about five yards long, fasten one end firmly round the off fetlock, bring the rope over his back just behind the shoulders, down the near side, between his fore legs, pass it through the ring, and bring it back again. The animal will now soon be ready for another plunge ; keep your rein just on the strain, and the moment he attempts to hop, with a sudden jerk draw the off leg up close to the arm, and hold fast. He may give three or four springs, but he comes down on his knees every time; 129 he will soon utter a groan or two, lie down, and be perfectly quiet. You may then sit on his back and do what you like. But now you have conquered him speak gently and softly. He will then know that is all you require. If you speak harshly the animal cannot imagine what it is you do want. This is not precisely Mr. Rarey's plan, but it is much safer with the strap and ring round the neck. Be careful not to attempt it on rough fallows : you may stumble and fall, and the animal will be sure to be on you ; he will know you from either of the others, especially after you have fastened up the near leg. The following points should be attended to in selecting a bull (for colour, or sort, see " Out of Season," " Weaning Calves, &c") : — the head should be rather long ; muzzle fine : ears long and thin ; eyes very full, bright, lively, a good width between, eye-lashes should not be black, he should show the white part of his eye all round (some people will say an animal is bad-tempered when he shows the white of his eyes; nothing can be more erroneous, it denotes courage and breed : it is the dull, sunken eye that indicates the bad temper, and uncertain design) ; his horns wide ; his neck rising with a gentle curve from the shoulders, and small and fine where it joins the head ; shoulders moderately brdad at the top and joining full to the chine ; bosom open ; breast broad and projecting well before his legs ; arms large and muscular, tapering to the knee ; legs straight, clean, and fine in the bone, no hollowness behind the shoulders either top or sides; ribs round and springing out horizon- tally from the chine, and each one to rise a little above the other, the last to be highest and as close to the hip as can be ; loin or back broad, straight, and flat ; the hips should be perfectly globular, and a little higher than the back ; there should be great length from the hip to the rump, or setting on of the tail, which should be broad, well haired, set on so high as to be in the same horizon- tal line with the back, and gradually tapering down to the smallest possible size. The two principal points that denote a pure breed of any sort are a thin, clear, white muzzle, and a bright, prominent eye with good width between. The horns should not turn up, but spring out from the head in a horizontal position with the tips drooping a little. Inflammation of the Kidneys. — This disease is often brought on in horses and cattle by their partaking too freely of mow-burnt hay and oats, both acting as strong diuretics. A blow on the loins, or sudden exposure to wet and cold will sometimes produce it. 130 Clothe all over the body, bandage all four legs up to the belly, and give the following mixture in a quart of thin gruel : — ' Barbadoes aloes, eight drachms Hard soap, four drachms Ginger, one drachm Oil of carraway, six drops. Mate the animal drink as much thin gruel as possible ; also rub in the following lotion over the seat of the pain, or apply a strong mustard poultice. No blister or anything of the sort must be used. Spirits of wine, two ounces Soap, two ounces Camphor, two ounces. Pleuro-Pneumonia, oh Distempeb. — Dairy cows are often affected with this disease in the spring. The proper treatment is to give a full dose of Glauber salts, rub the tongue with common salt, and give them bruised oats, a little bran sprinkled with water, and shake over a small quantity of linseed meal. They should be fed with this mixture until quite recovered. "When oats are cheap it may answer the purpose to continue for some time, especially if cheese sells at a good price. Mangold grated and mixed with the meal will also be found beneficial in restoring the animal to health and vigour. As I have before stated, every dairy farmer should grow an acre of mangolds for every ten cows, and if he is fond of partridge shooting, a piece of mangold wurtzel with a strip of late oats at one end, is the place to obtain it. All Young Cattle should be well attended to in the winter, and not be allowed to gorge themselves with too much coarse, indigestible food, or they will be affected with diarrhoaa half through the following summer, and one or two probably remain so. The first winter, when of course they are still calves, they should be done as well as circumstances will admit — good hay, a few roots, mixed with a little cake, rock salt to lick, and plenty of good water in a well-sheltered, dry meadow. The second year, or winter, as before stated, they must not be allowed too much coarse food; the coarse food, viz.; — straw, chaff, caving, rough hay, &c, should be cut into chaff, and mixed with grated roots. They should have straw mornings and evenings, but not in large quan- tities. If roots are scarce, which may be sometimes the case, a little meal should be mixed with the chaff, and less roots. It is astonishing how cattle will thrive on a few roots, and also the 131 number that may be kept by feeding in this manner ; on a great many farms one-third more may be kept. Young cattle are like children — eat for amusement ; they would often do quite as well if they had half the quantity they usually have, and grow quite as fast, with good health and a stronger constitution. SHEEP. " Blown," or " Hoven," may be generally prevented by feeding in the morning while the dew is on the plants. If that is not convenient they must only remain for a few minutes, off and on. But you cannot expect your flock to make much progress if treated in that manner. If the wind is in the east or north, drive your sheep quietly round, and let them into their food down wind, and never allow them to run open-mouthed into it when the wind is in that quarter, or any other (if the wind is at all rough), against the wind. If sheep are always properly fed, and kept in good and thriving condition, it will seldom occur. It is a foolish practice to drive them about when blown or hoven, for by so doing you will increase the natural temperature of the body, and expansion of the internal air must take place at the same time. Mr. Read's patent syringe should be used if the probang fails to give relief, and the offending matter can be pumped out at once. There are several tubes belonging to this instrument, for cattle, sheep, and man, and at the same time there are tubes for drenching animals, with gag and all complete. Every farmer should keep an instrument of this sort, as also four probangs, two of the large size for cattle, viz.: — one hollow in cases of hoven, the other with a stilet acting in the same maimer as a cork-screw, when with a steady and confident hand any piece of turnip or potato may be drawn away. A little rum and castor oil should always be given after any of the above per- formances. Two smaller ones should be kept for sheep and pigs. The " Blood " in Sheep is something similar to the quarter- evil in cattle, with this difference : that it attacks sheep of all ages, whereas the other disease only attacks cattle under two yeara and a half old. It is produced from forcing sheep too rapidly and suddenly. On the first appearance, bleed all the flock immediately; give one ounce of Glauber salts, and turn them into bare pasture. The one that falls may have one tenth part of the following mixture in half a pint of warm gruel : — Nitrate of potass, six drachma Tartar emetic, one drachm k2 Powdered foxglove, one drachm Camphor, two drachms Oil of turpentine, two ounces -Epsom salts, five ounces Yellow resin, one drachm. It is very seldom you can obtain any relief. Rot in Sheep. — As this disease is always produced by the sheep feeding on wet soils during June, July, August, September, and October (one hard frost unaccompanied with snow will destroy the cause), and as such soils must be suitable for the growth of beans, every farmer ought to grow enough to feed his flock, once a day all the year round, with a few. They will not require many, but enough to counteract the excessive moisture, (and to be folded at night on dry ground), which will act as a preventive against this afflictive disease. Some farmers may consider this plan, at first sight, to be ruinous in the extreme; 260 sacks for the whole year will be 5 sacks per week, and that will give a flock of 400 ewes nearly half a pint each per once a day. To grow this quantity it will require 40 acres. Now we presume where a flock of 400 ewes are kept, as many as 120 acres of wheat would be grown on a three-course system (for such is generally the course adopted in wet localities), and we may fairly calculate on growing six bushels extra by feeding the sheep with half a pint of beans per day. This extra quantity of wheat on the 120 acres will at the low and ruinous price of twenty shillings per sack produce £180. We will leave out the extra quantity of wool (for such there would be) to balance against the short breed of lambs, which may occasionally occur, and reckon 400 lambs, which must, under such management be worth four shillings per head extra, and that will produce £80, which, with.the sum of £180 for the wheat, will pay for the 2.60 sacks of beans at £1 per sack. I consider now that the beans are paid for, and now for the extra profit that may be fairly supposed to accrue from this method of sheep feed- ing on wet soils. In the first place there will be little or no danger of rot ; and, if any, your lambs will be ready to sell much earlier, and it will not then cost much to make your sale ewes fit for the butcher. All your crops of corn, roots, and clover will increase in like proportion, and you may calculate that your harvest will be at least from four to seven days earlier. And lastly, the natural temperature of the soil will be raised at least one degree, which is of great importance, especially in a wet summer. The excessive 133 moisture taken into the animal's stomach from wet soils, without proper food to counteract that moisture, in continuous wet weather, with damp lodging, tbe wool of the sheep absorbing the dampness from the earth, and the porous nature of the skin (so rendered by the oil in the wool), enables the flesh of the body also to absorb the dampness of the earth. Continued dampness in any timber, or wood of any sort, will breed the wood louse ; and in like manner is the fluke bred in the sheep's liver. The fluke closely resembles the wood louse in shape and habit, and timber is not unlike a piece of liver when dried. The beans should be one year old at least, and split, or the desired effect will not be obtained. The only remedy to expel the fluke from the animal's body is the following mixture in half a pint of thin gruel : — Half a drachm of yellow resin A wine-glassful of turpentine Six grains of calomel Ten drops of tincture of iodine. If the dose is not too strong repeat it every morning for three days. Scab, on Mange, is sometimes conveyed to a flock by inocula- tion from some evil disposed person ; a farmer may bring it home from fair if he does not sell (the best and safest plan is always to sell), or he may buy some that are already affected with the disease. But I am inclined to think the former is too frequently the case. W e hear of gates being set open and allowing cattle to get altogether, at the risk of killing each other ; we have heard of cruelly cutting the animals' tails at the risk of their bleeding to death ; we have known favourite animals poisoned; and we frequently hear of incendiaries ; all of which may be detected much more easily than the malicious villain who may in his ordinary work inoculate a flock in a few seconds either with the scab, foot-rot, or small-pox, even in the presence of his master, for he may carry the inoculation under his finger nail. In the early stages of scab or mange half a pound of tobacco in a gallon of brine will stop it. In severe cases use the following ointment: — Corrosive sublimate, eight ounces White hellebore, in powder, twelve ounces Whale, or other oil, six gallons Resin, two pounds Tallow, two pounds! 134 Sublimate in powder ; with, the hellebore mix with a portion of the oil, resin, tallow, and the remainder of the oil to be melted, then mix all well together y if the ointment should appear too thin, use less oil and more tallow. Eub it in well three times a week. Small-Pox or similar diseases, as before stated, might be pro- duced by inoculation in various ways. I consider it imperative that our Government should appoint officers to inspect the landing of all cattle and sheep imported, and also the ships, which should have been thoroughly cleaned and painted or whitewashed previous to being laden for exportation, each and every voyage ; and that no more should be shipped than could be sufficiently ventilated, under penalty of so much per head. It is the inhalation of the unwhole- some gases which exude from unhealthy animals that is the cause of our various afflictive contagious maladies. Whenever anything of the sort occurs send for the most skilful veterinary surgeon at once. Starlings are birds that frequently haunt large flocks of sheep, and if any flock should be affected with this disease they are most likely to inoculate other flocks ; for in pecking after the tick they must necessarily irritate the skin, and inoculation will assuredly take place. Tick. — Sheep will always pay for dipping when troubled with ticks ; it is also a good plan to dip the ewes when the lambs are dipped. About the latter end of July is the best time. The safe and proper mixture is — One pound of arsenic Two pounds of soft soap 30 gallons of water. Six gallons of the water should be put in a kettle over a fire and nearly boil with the soft soap, and when the soap is dissolved stir in the arsenic, and thoroughly incorporate the whole ; then throw the mixture into the remaining 24 gallons of cold water, when it will be fit for use. Giddiness. — The only cure is the butcher's knife. When you are satisfied the lamb or teg is giddy, bleed freely from the neck, and well shake his head for a day or tfro ; and if you see no im- provement, have him slaughtered at once. The principal cause is sudden change of food, or condition. The lamb should never receive the slightest possible check ; if after such a check the lamb is put on good keep, there is often a determination of blood to the head, more or less. This may not be noticed; some will get all right, 135 while with others it will turn to water on the brain, or a small maggot will be found to exist ; but it is not perceptible until too late. If the flock is kept in good condition all the year round, fed with beans on wet rotten soils, and lambs never stunted, you will not be troubled with many giddy tegs. Fly. — To prevent the attack of the fly I recommend the fly powder prepared by Mr. Hulbert, Chemist, &c, Basingstoke, Hants. When there are maggots rub them well with stone mercury and they will soon roll out. Sheep that have been once struck with the fly should not be saved for stock again, as it indicates a foul skin. Breed that sort with plenty of wool between their ears, and use the fly powder. Diabkhxea is caused by sudden change from bad to good keep ; old beans will prevent, and a quarter of an ounce of prepared chalk in a pint of milk will cure. If relief is not obtained, add half a drachm of yellow resin. Young lambs are often affected with this fatal disease in the spring. To prevent anything of the sort occurring great attention is required ; no sudden change in the food must be allowed either to the ewe or lamb. On some farms there is no danger, but when such is the case the ewes should have a small allowance of oil-cake, or old beans, once a day, to commence a week after lambing. A small quantity will generally prevent, but care must be taken to have sufficient trough room, to enable all to have a little. On hot soils oil-cake may perhaps be most suitable, and on every farm will be found to be the most efficacious preventive. Ewes, before lambing, should not be allowed to run in the aftermath of any water meadow, nor should they be allowed any water meadow hay of the second crop after lambing, if such diseases are likely to occur. Colic, oe Gbipes. — A wine-glassful of Hollands, or gin, with a tea-spoonful of pepper will invariably procure relief. Dropsy and Bed Water are produced from partaking too freely of young green oats and succulent food when the spring and autumn are wet, without sufficient dry food or old beans. Foot-Bot. — Get ready a knife for that purpose, three-eighths of an inch wide in the blade, and the same shape as a pruning knife. Cut away all the diseased part without allowing the foot to bleed, and apply the following mixture with a feather, or wool, on a small stick :— 136 Six-pennyworth of quicksilver Dissolved by six-pennyworth of nitric acid Mix with one quart of best vinegar. All the diseased sheep should be put by themselves as fast as they fall down lame, and after they are dressed should remain in a shed on dry straw for three hours. The following recipe . may be used in an ointment : — One ounce of verdigris Four ounces of tar Two ounces of blue vitriol, powdered Two ounces of gunpowder Two ounces of Venice turpentine Two ounces of yellow resin And a little hogs' lard if required. The following also may be tried : — Sal ammoniac, six ounces Green vitriol, four ounces Sugar of lead, two ounces Verdigris, three ounces. Acetate of lead and saltpetre, each two ounces Turpentine, half a pint Strong vinegar, one pint Oil of vitriol, half a pound. Put all into a stone bottle, and after being well shaken it will be fit for use. There are three very pernicious weeds — I may say five — which are very injurious to sheep, and especially young lambs : charlock, poppy, wild carrot, chicken-wort, and the wild chamomile. Young green oats in too great abundance are not wholesome for young lambs, unless they have old beans, or malt- dust. In conclusion, allow me to urge the necessity of an oc- casional change of food, with plenty of water, free access to rock salt, and to keep the flock, as near as can be, in one fair and uniform condition all the year round. The constitution of the sheep is so peculiarly formed that any sudden change immediately affects it, and very little can be done by medicines, therefore it is always wise to adopt preventive treatment as much as possible. PIGS. The diseases which affect these animals generally originate from their being kept in loathsome and cold, damp situations, and inhaling infectious exhalations, such as would proceed from the 137 fattening stye, or yard. No breeding pigs, or young stores should be kept within 200 yards of a fattening yard. Some pigs are nearly starved for a week or two, and then filled almost to repletion. Cleanliness is the first thing to be attended to, plenty of fresh air, and a meadow to rim into; you cannot breed pigs with profit unless you have a place of that sort. They should be kept in one equal state as near as possible. Some atmospheric agency will occasionally produce a cold and fever amongst pigs ; they should then be bled, give Epsom salts, and the following powder to each pig:— Foxglove, two grains Sulphur, half an ounce Antimonial powder, six: grains Nitre, half a drachm Syrup of saffron, one drachm If they have a meadow or paddock to run into, a little ruddle and sulphur with a little nitre once or twice in the spring and autumn will generally be sufficient to keep them in health; treacle, a small quantity of yellow resin, madder with fresh brewers' grains or sweet pollard may sometimes be given. Ringing. — In preference to ringing I would recommend cutting through the cartilage that unites the supplemental bone to the proper nasals ; it will never grow together again, and the snout will be powerless. Breeding. — When convenient, there should be two meadows or paddocks for breeding pigs, and change every year, and mow the other ; the crop will probably be enormous. There should be a comfortable yard next to, and adjoining the meadow for pigs, and pigs alone. It is of no use to attempt to breed pigs unless you have convenient buildings for that purpose, and in fact for all sorts of cattle. Fifty or one hundred pounds are often lost, for the simple reason of not having suitable buildings on the farm. Very few agents understand the manner in which farm buildings should be erected. I have seen many square, box-like, snug, and neat looking buildings, but totally unfit for the farmer and his stock. The yard for the pigs should be perfectly dry, no stagnant water, and a wide shed all four sides, covered with stone, or brick tile, or thatch, not blue slate— it is too hot in the summer and vice versa in the winter. There should be a pool of water in the meadow, or a running stream would be better with willows planted 138 for shade. In the summer young vetches and young white turnips should be given to purify the blood. The want of convenient buildings and arrangements, I have no doubt is the reason why some farmers say it will not pay to keep pigs. Stoppage in the Bowels. — Give melted hogs' lard ; castor oil is not suitable for swine. Iron Troughs are not suitable for fattening pigs in cold and frosty weather. DOGS. Distemper. — Give an emetic of calomel, yellow resin, and emetic tartar, of each from half a grain to one grain and a half, according to the size of the animal. If fever follows with constipation, bleed from three to twelve ounces, and give the following bolus : — powdered foxglove, from half a grain to one grain ; antimonial powder, from two to five grains; and nitre from one scruple to a drachm ; palm oil and linseed meal to form a bolus : give twice or thrice a day. If on the third or fourth day the animal does not improve, repeat the emetic. If after this treatment there is no relief a seton should be put in the poll between the ears, and reaching from ear to ear j and take a little more blood. Diarrhoea. — Mix the following into a bolus with a little palm oil : — powdered chalk, from one to two drachms ; yellow resin, half a drachm ; catechu, from one scruple to a drachm ; opium, from one-eight to a fourth of a grain. Sprains. — Foment with hot water six times a day, and in the intervals keep rags wet with the following lotion : — Extract of lead, two ounces Water, one pint. When the inflammation is subdued rub in the following liniment:— Spirits of wine, one ounce Camphor, two drachms Soft soap, one ounce. — Mix. Mange. — An ointment for the common mange may be thus made : — Resin, half an ounce Flour of sulphur, half an ounce Hogs' lard, one ounce — and well mix. The animal must be rubbed completely over twice a day, and the moment the cure is effected a clean bed should be given, Lotion for the red mange : — 139 Corrosive sublimate in powder, half an ounce Spirits of wine, two ounces Bain water, one pint. — Well mix. All the affected parts must be well washed by means of a sponge dipped in this composition every two or three days till the cure is effected. At regular intervals a few mercurial purging balls may be given, and with assiduous attention a speedy cure may not be doubted. Cankeb in the Lips.— Wash well with alum water three times a day. Fobmica, on Scab in the Eab. — A little mercurial ointment rubbed upon the affected parts every two or three days will soon effect a cure. Sobe Feet. — All dogs' feet, after a hard day's work, should be washed with potato water — water in which potatoes have been boiled — or the parings may be used for that purpose. The last thing at night or early the next morning before going out they should be washed with a weak solution of blue vitriol and brine, for if "once raw the dog will gnaw and bite to allay the itching, which will make matters worse. If they should get sore, apply a little of the following mixture with a feather after having been previously washed : — Oil of vitriol, five drops Tincture of myrrh, one ounce. Then just touch the feet with a little powdered yellow resin. Fits are generally produced by harsh and rough treatment, and assuming such to be the case, the contrary will often effect a cure, or assist nature in so doing — a dash of cold water in the face will in most cases effect a cure. It is also equally applicable to human beings in most cases. Whatever the disease may happen to be, we must first ascertain the cause before we can hope to establish a permanent cure. Having found the cause, or that which was supposed to accelerate the disease, the opposite treatment must then be adopted, or the medicine and other appliances will be of little avail. Excessive grief is too often the cause, although some- times fits are produced from growing too fast, which causes a weakness of constitution, consequently the mind is not so capable of resisting that excessive grief. But in the absence of any trouble or grief, when produced by weakness of constitution, the ordinary 140 medicines and appliances will effect a cure, or so far alleviate the disease as to enable the patient to enjoy a tolerably comfortable life, with an occasional fit now and then. As the patient advances in age the fits are less violent, and if the mind continues un- disturbed they may in all probability quite disappear, or the attack will be so slight that very little inconvenience will be experienced. This is one of the most afflictive of all human maladies, and parents will sometimes, from selfish motives, twist about and make it appear to be attributable to some other than the real cause, which only aggravates the disease. There is nothing so injurious to any disease connected with the mind as for the patient not to be enabled or allowed to ascertain the real cause ; it baffles all medicine and skill on the part of the medical man. POULTRY. Geese are not subject to many diseases, but they require great attention during the period of incubation. The goose is , a water-fowl, and its natural habits and haunts are by the water side, where, of course, they would make their nests, and the eggs would receive the necessary moisture from the earth and dampness from the atmosphere. In dry weather we frequently hear of many complaints. The goose is quite a domesticated bird, and can be made to sit in any convenient place, therefore choose a damp situation. When the goose leaves her nest, the eggs should be made damp with a bunch of nettles tied on the end of a stick, and the lasb two or three days of incubation they should be dipped in blood-warm water once a day, which will greatly facilitate their hatching; afterwards there will be little or no danger, excepting hailstorms, to guard against. Ducks also require somewhat similar treatment. To get them ready for the table early they should be kept in a small yard with a stream of water running through, or an artificial pool with fresh water thrown in every day. Feed them when large enough with oatmeal, sifted, and barley meal mixed with whey or milk; curdled milk and mutton suet may also be added. Turkeys, Pheasants, and Chickens, when hatched, should all be kept in high and dry situations ; each coop should stand alone on a piece of gravel or sand about three or four yards square ; the coop to be shifted twice a week, and chloride of lime to be sprinkled every night after the birds are gone to roost, and a few handfula 141 of fresh gravel or sand every morning. When the birds are first hatched they should be made to swallow two pepper-corns each, on the third day they should each have two pills made of powdered yellow resin mixed up with tar and of the same size as the pepper- corns ; this should be attended to twice a week until the birds are a month old, when the dose may be slightly increased and given once a week and in one pill until the birds are safe. Wood ashes should always be put in the water ; a small quantity will suffice, but it should be changed often. Buck-wheat in the straw is the most suitable food for ^turkeys and pheasants, with a little malt twice a week ; the food of the common fowl is too well known to need description. APPENDIX B. PARISH BUSINESS CHtracirwABDENS are the guardians of the church, and also of the moral character and public decency of their parishes ; and on them devolves the care of the repairs, and provision of all things necessary for the church, and the performance of divine service. Every churchwarden is an overseer of the poor ; all householders are liable to serve the office. The Ordinary may reject any Jew, Alien, or Papist. The following persons are exempted: — Peers, members of parliament, clergymen and dissenting ministers, attorneys, physicians, surgeons, persons in attendance on the Queen, officers in the army, navy, and marines on full pay, sergeants, corporals, drummers, and privates in the militia, registrars of births, deaths, and marriages, sheriffs, justices, aldermen, com- missioners and officers of customs and excise, and persons actually serving any parochial office in any other parish. Persons who are not personally resident in a parish, but are occupiers of any house or place of business, are liable to serve. Dissenters may serve by deputy, subject to the approval of the parishioners. Poverty is no excuse. Churchwardens must be chosen yearly, in Easter week, by the joint consent of the minister and parishioners ; but if they cannot agree on such choice, the minister is to choose one and the parishioners another. If the persons who ought to choose churchwardens neglect to do so, the Ecclesiastical Court has no power to interfere j but in that case a mandamus lies to compel them. 144 A churchwarden may be removed for misconduct, by those who appointed him, and others chosen, before the year expires. When a rate is required a vestry must be called for that purpose, and every one rated to the relief of the poor has a right to attend and vote at the vestry. Every chairman has a right to adjourn, if necessary, and to have the casting vote. A Rector, though bound to repair the chancel, is also bound to contribute to the repair of the church, if he has any lands in the parish which are not parcel of the rectory. Stock-in-trade is liable to be rated. If any person refuses to pay a rate he must be sued in the Ecclesiastical Courts, and not elsewhere. Quakers may also be sued in tbe same court. Churchwardens are bound to keep everything clean and in repair, and it is not necessary to have the consent of the parishioners unless anything new is erected. If a church is so much out of repair that it is necessary to pull it down, or if it is too small, the majority of the inhabitants may make a rate for that purpose. All persons in a parish are entitled to a pew or seat, but when the occupier ceases to be a parishioner his right of pew also ceases and determines. A churchwarden cannot sell or let pews, nor any other person ; it is illegal. Seats belong to the house, not to the land ; nor do they belong to persons, but to the inhabitants. Pews must be repaired by the parish. Tou must not pull down any pew although you erected it your- self, without the consent of the minister and churchwardens. A convenient seat must be made at the expense of the parish for the minister to read service in ; and also a chest with a hole in the top, look, and three keys, one for the clergyman and the other for the churchwardens, and to be fastened in some convenient place to receive the alms of the parishioners. Churchwardens are to see that everything is found that is necessary. If the parish is charged with the expense of an organ, 145 anyone may object to its being erected. If erected by voluntary contributions, the consent of the parish is unnecessary. The churchyard fence must be repaired by the parish, and kept in good order with rails, walls, or poles. If trees or grass are cut and carried away, the incumbent may bring his action. Churchwardens must attend to all church roads, whatever the distance may happen to be, ways, gates, stiles, and doors, and keep the same in good repair ; and no person must be allowed to loiter in the churchyard or porch during divine service. If a minister refuses to bury a corpse, a mandamus lies to compel him ; and if the accustomed fee is denied, still he must bury the body, and seek his remedy in the common law court. But the minister cannot be compelled to bury a corpse in this or that particular place, for he and the churchwardens have a right to exercise their discretion on that subject. The churchwarden must maintain order and decorum during divine service, take off anyone's hat who refuses to do so, and turn out persons disturbing the congregation; but he cannot detain them afterwards. The minister has the direction of the services, but if he introduces any irregularity the churchwardens must not interfere, but may complain to the Ordinary of his conduct. The churchwardens are to prevent any quarrel or contention which may take place at any time in the church or churchyard. Vestry is a place for parish business ; much latitude of discussion must be allowed, and strong language does not constitute brawling. The case would be different if blows were given. Churchwardens by their oaths are bound to certify to the bishop, or his officer, everything that is amiss or irregular in their parish ; they must do so before their successors are sworn in. They may present as often as they please, but are not obliged to do so oftener than once a year, viz.: — at the visitation of -the Ordinary. They may present the minister for non-residence, irregular, or incontinent living, or neglecting the due service of the church. It is the duty of the churchwardens to have the care of benefices during their vacancy, whether by death or otherwise, to 'cultivate the glebe, gather the tithes, and dispose of the produce of the glebe land in the best market for the benefit of the successors ; to take 14B care of the timber, and prevent any waste being committed on the living. They must also provide a curate and pay him out of the profits such a sum as the Ordinary shall fix. At the end of the year, or within a month afterwards, the churchwardens must in vestry present their accounts of receipts and disbursements, and the balance of money must be handed over to the new church- wardens, with an inventory of all goods, &c. Churchwardens are bound to permit an inspection of their accounts to any person showing some special reason, and may be compelled by mandamus. Churchwardens actually in office may maintain an action against a former churchwarden for money received by him. for the parish, although they are not his immediate successors. Overseers.-*— The duties of overseers are twofold: first, those relating to the poor ; second, those which concern certain ministerial offices. The magistrates of each petty sessional divison are bound to appoint on the 25 th of March, or within fourteen days after, not more than four nor less than two substantial householders to be overseers of the poor for .the ensuing year, for each parish within their jurisdiction. Justices by their warrant may appoint assistant overseers with salaries, and the commissioners are empowei*d to fix their duties, modes of appointment, and salaries, &c. Overseers are entirely under the control of the commissioners, and every overseer receiving a copy of any rule or order, must preserve it. They will also allow owners and ratepayers, or their agents, to inspect it gratis, and supply a copy if required on being paid three-pence for every seventy-two words, or allow a copy to be taken on payment of three-halfpence for every seventy-two words. Any overseer may give temporary relief or medical aid in any urgent case of sudden necessity, and report such case to the guardians of the union, or relieving officer, and the amount of such relief. The overseers will be served with a precept shortly before the 15th of August in every year, requiring them to make a return of all insane persons. The return should be made, whether there be any or not, and sent to the Clerk of the Peace before the last day of August. The overseers are bound to give notice to a justice of the state of every insane person, within seven days after he shall have become chargeable to the parish. If an overseer detains any lunatic, idiot, or insane person in a workhouse for a longer period than fourteen days, he is guilty of a 147 misdemeanour. Justices may visit workhouses and see the by-laws enforced. Ministers may also visit and afford instruction to those of the same persuasion. Whenever a rate is required it is not necessary to call a vestry, the churchwardens and overseers or a majority of them have full power to make it. All land, whether occupied for pleasure or for ordinary purposes of cultivation, or occupiers of houses, whether they derive any real benefit therefrom or not, are rateable. In the term land is included quarries, canals, railways, reservoirs, water-works, navigations, fisheries, mineral springs, gas- works, clay pits, gas and water companies, coal mines while worked, but no other, saleable underwood, but not firs planted to protect young oaks— of course they are always planted for that purpose. Every inhabitant must be permitted to inspect the rate at all reasonable times, and copies of all or any part must be supplied on payment of six-pence for every twenty-four names, or any ratepayer may take a copy himself without payment. Lodgers may be called upon to pay rates, they can then deduct the amount out of their rent. Poor persons may be excused by two justices, with the consent of the overseers and guardians (who should be present) from paying rates if they are through poverty unable to do so. Within fourteen days from the signing and attesting the accounts, all sums of money and arrears must be delivered to the succeeding overseers. June 10th,— County lists. On or before this day the Clerk of the Peace will forward you his precept for entering the names of persons claiming to be entitled to vote. If he does not send them you must apply for the same as soon as possible. On the 20th of June you must fix the notices to the church door and they must remain the two following Sundays. July 20th is the last day you are to re- ceive any claims from persons to be inserted in the list of voters for the county. July 31st. — Make out an alphabetical list of all persons who, on or before the twentieth day of July, shall have made claim to vote. August 1st. — Publish the copies on every church or chapel door and allow them to remain two Sundays. August 25th. — This is the last day for receiving notices of objection. August 29th. — On or before this day a list of all claimants and persons objected to must be sent to the Clerk of the Peace. 148 September 1st. — On or before this day you are to publish a list of persons objected to, and affix the same to the church or chapel doors; the revising barrister will give due notice when your attend- ance is required at the court. Overseers must, before the 24th of March, make out and return a list of a competent number of men within their parish to serve as constables. The list of the persons chosen as constables must be affixed to the door of the parish church. Overseers, or constables must prosecute persons keeping disorderly houses on receiving notice from two inhabitants paying scot and lot ; and the overseers must pay the expenses of the prosecution. Should the party be con- victed, the two inhabitants giving notice may demand the sum of ten pounds each from the overseers, each of whom will be liable to a penalty of double the amount if they neglect to pay it. In August, 1862, 25 and ,26 Vict., c. 103, an act was passed to amend the law relating to parochial assessments in England, and it appears equitable enough, as under it an assessment committee must be formed out of the numbers of guardians appointed at their first meeting after their annual appointment. If the guardians neglect to appoint such assessment committee at that meeting, the Poor Law Board shall fix some other day for such appointment, and the overseers from each parish in the union shall, every year, within three calendar months next after the appointment of the committee, prepare a valuation list according to the form set out in the Act of Parliament, taking the last poor rate as their guide, but making any alterations that they in their discretion may deem proper. When completed, they shall sign the same, affix the date, and deposit it in the place within the parish in which the rate books are kept. The valuation list being thus deposited, the overseers must give public notice on the following Sunday, and send a copy of the list to the committee ; and after the expiration of fourteen days they must send the list which had been deposited in the parish, also to the committee. Whilst the list is undergoing revision by the assessment committee, every rated person has an opportunity of making his or her objection, but the right of appeal to the Quarter Sessions is confined to the overseers. The overseer, or overseers, of any parish may appeal against the list for that parish, on the ground that the hereditaments are valued at sums beyond the true rateable value ; and they may appeal against the list for any other parish, on the ground that the hereditaments 149 are valued at sums below the true rateable value. They, must, however, obtain the consent of a vestry, summoned for that purpose, before they can bring their appeal. The appeal must be made at the next practicable sessions held, after the interval of a month from the deposit of the list. Notice of appeal must be given fourteen clear days prior to the first day of the sessions, if the appeal is against the list of some other parish, on the ground that the valuation is too low ; but for their own parish a similar notice to the guardians alone will be sufficient. The approved list must be deposited in the board room, or some other convenient place appointed by the board of guardians (or a copy of such list), for the inspection of any guardian, overseer, or ratepayer. The court is empowered after hearing the appeal, either to confirm the rate, or to correct any irregularities or inaccuracies. The gross estimated rental for the purpose of the schedule to this act is, that it shall be the rent at which the hereditaments might reasonably be expected to let from year to year, free of all tenants' tithes, rates, and taxes ; and also in addition, to deduct such expenses as are necessary to keep such place in a state to command such rent. It appears that the object of the act is not to alter the law of rating ; but to provide a sort of machinery for ensuring uniformity of rating in all unions. The rate must be made from the valuation list, and the overseers must declare, on its allowance by the magistrates, or some person on their behalf, that the rate has been examined and compared with the several particulars in the respective columns with the valuation list. Election of Guardians. — This duty generally devolves on the clerk to the board of guardians. Before the 25th of March the constable will deliver to the overseers a precept calling on them to make out a list of fit and proper persons, being substantial house- holders in the parish, to serve as overseers for the ensuing year. This list must be delivered to the justices within fourteen days after the 25th of March. Persons assessed to the poor in the parish, although not resident, but who are householders within two miles of the church, chapel, or parish boundary, may, with their consent, be appointed. Overseers or other officers wilfully disobeying the legal orders of justices and guardians are liable to a penalty of five pounds. Overseers must not, in their own name, or that of any other person, supply for their own profit any goods, materials, or provisions for the use of any workhouse or otherwise for the support ■and maintenance of the poor of the parish while they hold office, 150 or take part in any contract or contracts relating thereto, under a penalty of one hundred pounds. High Constable. — High constables must in every year, in the first week in July, on warrant from the Clerk of the Peace, issue their precepts to the churchwardens and overseers of parishes, re- quiring them to make out a list of persons liable and qualified to serve on juries before the 1st of September following. There are also several other precepts which at different times the high constable will receive from the Clerk of the Peace. The receipt of each, and every parcel must be acknowledged by the first post, and the instructions therein attended to. Subveyobs of the Highways. — It is provided that the inhab- itants of every parish maintaining its own highways, at their first meeting for the nomination of overseers of the poor in every year, shall proceed to the election of one or more persons to serve the office of surveyor in the parish, viz.:— within fourteen days after the 25th of March. The duty of surveyor is to remove all nuisances, and obstructions of every kind, cut, and plash hedges and trees, make drains and remove stagnant water. Any timber, stone, hay, straw, manure, lime, soil, ashes, or rubbish of any sort, so placed as to be a nuisance; the surveyor may under an order in writing from any justice remove and sell, and apply the proceeds of the sale to the repairs of the parish highways; and if the sum obtained is not sufficient to defray the cost of removal, the person who placed them there shall repay the surveyor the expense. The surveyor also has power to make, cleanse, and keep open all ditches, drains, and water-courses, and to make or lay such trunks, tunnels, or bridges as he thinks necessary, in and through any grounds ad- joining any highway, upon paying the owner or occupier such sum as justices in special sessions shall award. The right of pasturage on the sides of highways I consider belongs to the person whose land adjoins, although any cattle may and do feed,but they must not be allowed to stop. All highways leading to or adjoining any bridge built by the county must be repaired by the parish ; but the road immediately over the bridge, the walls and sides of the bridge, and all embankments requisite for the construction and maintenance of such bridge must be repaired by the county. If an order is made to make or widen any highway, you cannot compel parties to cut or grub any oak, ash, or elm, at any unseasonable time of the year. It is needless to add more on this matter, for the 151 Government will, I have no doubt, ere long take it in hand, and appoint district surveyors ; suffice it to say, a surveyor should have a thorough knowledge of geology, and road-making in general; he should also be acquainted with the amalgamation of the various materials, so as to form as it were a sort of elastic concrete. There are some so totally devoid of all tenacity they will not unite at all, and there are others that coalesce so closely and solidly as to render the road too hard and rocky; the road will become shaky and crack, which must necessarily involve extra outlay for repairs. Mechanics are well aware when machinery of any kind is required to be driven with any degree of velocity that a mixture of the proper metals is imperative. For example — brass for iron spindles to run in, and cogs of wood for large wheels which are required to drive the iron pinion. APPENDIX C. MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS. Disease oe Decay of Roots.— -Autumn cultivation and clean- liness in the fields and hedges, with suitable manure, will almost invariably prevent anything of the sort. Autumn cultivation is also advantageous in destroying the greater part of the insect tribe which prove so injurious to our crops the following spring and summer. It is also the most economical and effectual method of destroying thistles. On pasture lands that plan cannot be adopted, and the best course is to well beat and bruise them with sticks similar to the grass-mowing machines. If a gardener meets with a broken branch of any shrub or tree he knows full well he must with his knife mate a clean cut below the wound, or it will not heal until a great deal of strength is exhausted. The cabbage requires deep autumn cultivation more than any other plant ; they must not be planted until February or March if the field is in the neighbourhood of hares and rabbits ; they should also be planted one foot apart each way if you wish to obtain early feed. Disease or Decay, of Cheese. — The cheese-loft should be well heated by means of hot air pipes, and the temperature should be regulated according to the age of the cheese. Get ready flavour, jfeexture, .and .coat as soon as possible, and sell, if the price is high, or it will lose in weight. When you sell cheese always be prepared with your own cheese-iron. Some irons, from their peculiar construction, will draw the sample away from the cheese in broken ; pieces, which gives it a poor appearance. You will invariably see a factor with one of that sort. Always keep one by you made in 154 such, a manner that will fill itself well, and draw away an -unbroken sample of uniform texture or it will not show much fatty substance. All flies that blow maggots should be kept out of the cheese-loft ; cats may be trained for that purpose. Two Reasons why some Landlobds object to Long- Leases. — Supposing a husband dies, in the first place the widow has no vote for the county ; in the second place the landlord knows if he allows a widow to remain on his estate she will naturally be wanting something or other done continually, and if he grants it to her he must to all his tenantry. Diseases op Cobn, Blight, &c, may all in a great measure be prevented by autumn cultivation, cleaning hedges, ditches, &c., and burning all rubbish. The soil is ever busy either in growing crops or breeding and rearing of all sorts of insects, if left un- disturbed. Corn will also in some seasons become diseased or blighted from not having been cut early enough, especially wheat. When the straw is ripe from the root upwards to the first joint it ought to be cut, for there is always sufficient sap to carry on nature's design up to the next joint, and so on in the same manner as the barge or boat rides on from one lock to the next. Diseases and Blight of Trees may be prevented by autumn cultivation round about the trunk and roots, and washing in wood ashes with manure water. Tobacco ashes and blood washed in and round the trunk and roots of fruit trees will be found very beneficial, and destructive to the insect tribe. Adttltebation op Artificial Manubes. — To avoid this, as before stated, all manures, when convenient, should, if possible, be manufactured at home; peat ashes make measure, and salt weighs heavy, and is to be bought at two pounds per ton, and can be sold at six pounds per ton, so be careful what you buy. Peruvian guano, when required, may be obtained in a genuine state from Messrs. Gibbs and Co. Nitrate of soda may answer very well to sow in the spring, if you wish to give a farm up to an inexperienced man ; but in a general way I cannot recommend it ; it acts on the soil as savin or liver of antimony does on the horse. Bones in. small pieces are very valuable for pasture lands, "Bones from whence bone is taken, Land will not be forsaken." and dissolved bones for the root crops, but should be manufactured at home ; if you think proper to add salt you can buy it, and mix. 1SS Endemic and Entozoic Diseases and Disobdebs, such as rot, foot-rot, and red- water in sheep; qtiarter-evil, yellows, and red- water in cattle ; and inflammation of the lungs, and fever in pigs ; all of which more or less depend on the peculiarities of the soil, system of cultivation, or dietetic mismanagement, may in a great measure be prevented. The first preventive step is to drain the land effectually where required, thoroughly cleanse all ditches, arches, and water-courses, either in October or November in every year ; and also all drains and ditches leading to and from the farm buildings. The second step to take is deep autumn cultivation, which if properly attended to will do much towards the destruction of myriads of insects, and a multitude of pernicious weeds ; it is also the most natural method of draining the soil. There are thousands of pounds annually thrown away in unnecessary drainage on some soils, by people who do not understand the geological arrangements of the strata of the earth ; when all that is required is deep autumn cultivation and clean ditches. The third preventive step is to avoid as much as possible all pernicious weeds, too much coarse and indigestible food, and sudden changes from one sort of food to another, especially with sheep. If people will persist in feeding sheep on wet cold soils in wet weather, they can at least put them in a dry fold or yard at night, when with sufficient trough room they can be fed with that (as before stated) which is necessary to counteract the excessive moisture of the food taken in the day. The health of our large towns and villages has been much improved within the last century, and in like manner can our fields be rendered healthier for our cattle, sheep, and pigs, and if this were done it would add much more to the resources of our country than the redemption of waste lands, or the breaking up of healthy sheep walks. Cod-Liveb Oil. — All farmers should keep a supply of cod-liver oil, to be administered in proportionate doses to all sorts of young stock, and also poultry, when in a weak and debilitated state. It should be mixed with best oatmeal, into balls; for cattle and pigs, and in small pellets for poultry. FINIS. JOHN LARGE, CIYIL ENGINEER AND SURVEYOR, CHIPPENHAM, WILTS. ESTATES Advantageously re-arranged and Surveyed. DIKES AND WATER COURSES Arranged to facilitate draining. PLANTATIONS Arranged, and roads made. ARTIFICIAL WATER WORKS, AND PONDS Made in any situation. FARM BUILDINGS Arranged in the most advantageous manner for the tenant, combining simplicity, convenience, economy, and neat appearance. ARCHITECTURAL DESIGNS, SITES, &c, For Country Mansions, in any style or size, combining elegancewith suitability for country life. STABLES, &c, On the most healthy and convenient plan, with the necessary grounds and fields for the self-supporting comfort of the establishment. **