y 
 
 djacnell Imueraltg Hibtara 
 
 atljata, ■Nen> lork 
 
 WORDSWORTH COLLECTION 
 
 MADE BY 
 
 CYNTHIA MORGAN ST. JOHN 
 ITHACA. N. Y. 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 VICTOR EMANUEL 
 
 CLASS OF 1919 
 1925 
 
 "^^ 
 
 '-C^ Ai^c^ 
 
 
 
 ^■-^^'^^ -^f^;^ sZ^ Tk^'i,'^''-^^ ^ .^^^ ..-^^-^ 
 

 f 
 
 ■^ ^-^^!!:r: 
 
 
 
 'l 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 .^!^^5---^ ^^^^^ • 
 
 >y^*-/' 
 
 /7^S' 
 
 '^l^'^/T^— -^ 
 
 
 ^A^ ?-r,.riri; 
 
 ^^^^..^^-^-^^ 
 
 
 •;?'<? 
 
 <72*-t*-v ^^^/;r^ ^^^ o;^ ^ J 
 
 
(/^^-^^^^yptty^ z;^^, ■'S=^<^^i^ /S.Z-'^.-t^ r^rzPt^ £^i€^ 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 <2^^ 
 
 .^i^t- '^ 
 
 
 
 
 jC 
 
 cr/ 
 
 Hr^-^. ^ M- 
 
 !^,^.^X^^ Jk^^- 
 
Holiday studies 
 
 OF 
 
 Wordsworth 
 
 By Rivers, Woods, and Alps. 
 
 THE WHARFE, THE DUD DON, 
 
 AND 
 
 THE' STELVIO PASS. 
 
 BY 
 
 . REV. F. A. MALLESON, M.A., 
 
 VICAR OF BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS, 
 
 AUTHOR OF "jESUS CHRIST, HIS LIFE AND WORK," "ACTS AND EPISTLES OF ST. PAUL;" 
 EDITOR OF " RUSKIN'S LETTERS TO THE CLERGY ON THE LORD'S PRAYER," 
 
 EIC. ETC. 
 
 CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited: 
 
 LONDON, PARIS 6- MELBOURNE. 
 
 1890. I. , 
 
 ).« ■ ■ ■ ■ "MP! 
 
DEDICATION. 
 
 |0T alone as homage due to distinguished rank, but much more 
 ^ as a poor (would it were a rich !) tribute to conspicuous, yet 
 modest civic, social and domestic, virtue, and a lofty and dignified 
 patriotism as noble and generous as it is affecting, I dedicate (by 
 permission) to 
 
 WILLIAM, SEVENTH DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. K.G., F.R.S., etc., 
 
 this feeble attempt (associated with other earlier writings) to portray the 
 natural beauties and to record some of the historic memories of one of 
 the ancestral homes and sacred fanes of England. 
 
 F. A. Malleson. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 *HE present Volume is a small collection of papers written at 
 rather distant intervals, of which the partiality of kind friends 
 has encouraged me to believe that they would not willingly allow 
 them to be lost. 
 
 They have therefore been gathered together, by courteous permission 
 of the editors, out of the magazines in which they originally appeared, 
 with the exception of the paper on "Bolton Abbey," written in 1889, 
 which has not been printed before. 
 
 The Westmorland Girl died in my own parish in 1872, and the 
 paper so entitled appeared in Si^7i<^ay at I/o7ne in 1873. "Wordsworth 
 and the Duddon " — the result of a couple of days spent in solitude, 
 pencil in hand, in the beautiful Duddon Valley — appeared in Good 
 Words in 1883. Considerable additions, however, have been made 
 since then. These three pieces are therefore more or less illustrations 
 of the life and works of a great Poet Laureate. The " Swiss Notes " 
 and the ** Stelvio Pass " were written during a sojourn of three weeks 
 at the Baths of Bormio, as English chaplain, in Sept., 1883, and, like 
 the Duddon paper, the latter was entirely written in pencil on the 
 spot, with those grand Alpine scenes before my eyes — even when I 
 could scarcely hold my pencil for the cold at an elevation of close upon 
 ten thousand feet. The last two papers have appeared in Anglo-Austria, 
 a well-conducted magazine, first published in January, 1890, at Meran in 
 Tyrol. 
 
 The grateful duty remains of returning sincerest thanks to Lady 
 Louisa Egerton for her most kind and able assistance in the historical 
 portion of the paper on Bolton Abbey, without which assistance the 
 author would scarcely have ventured upon this undertaking ; also to 
 the Rev. A. P. Hows, Rector of Bolton Abbey, whose interesting guide 
 book has rendered valuable assistance. 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 BOLTON ABBEY. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Part I. — Historical : Modern History hardly less sorrowful than Mediaeval — First View of 
 the Abbey — Wharfedale in Primeval Times— Antiquity of the Church of Bolton — The 
 Tragedy of the Strid and the Foundation of Bolton Priory — Wordsworth — Traces of 
 its Early History— The Western Tower— " Blackfaced Clifford "—The Shepherd 
 Loi'd — The Nut-brown Maid — Bolton Abbey Granted to the Cliffords of Skipton — 
 Disputes between the Lords of Craven — The Rising in the North — The White Doe of 
 Rylstone and the Fate of the Nortons — Personal Habits of the Lords of Skipton 
 Castle— The Castle and its Historic Portraits — The Buccaneering Lord — Anne 
 Countess of Dorset and her State- — The Countess Pillar — The Bolton Abbey Estates, 
 and the House of Cavendish ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 13 
 
 Part n. — Descriptive : The Strid — Rev. W. Carr and the Picturesque Rustic Seats — The 
 Loveliness of the Woods in Spring — Subdued Light for Woodland Scenery — Barden 
 Tower — Characteristics of Spring Foliage — The Mountain Ash and above-ground 
 Roots — The Valley of Desolation — The Great Waterspout of 1826 — Posforth Gill — 
 Formation of Mountain Streams — Heber's Ghyll — Weathering of Rocks — Bolton 
 Abbey Churchyard — Nature the Beautifier of Ruin and Decay — Lord Frederick 
 Cavendish^The Good Time that a'z7/ come, "though it tarry " ... ... ... ... 28 
 
 WORDSWORTH'S "WESTMORLAND GIRL." 
 
 Broughton-in-Furness and the Duddon — Sarah Mackereth "The Westmorland Girl" — 
 Her Beauty and Refinement— Fading Away — Unexpected Discovery that she was 
 Wordsworth's Heroine, his " Lamb Deliverer" — Story of the Deliverance of the Lamb 
 from Drowning— The Scene by Gra.smere Lake— Primitive Times at Grasmere — Sarah 
 Tolling the Passing Bell— Sarah "loved all things great and small "—Nathaniel Haw- 
 thorne at Grasmere — Passing away — Visited by Angels — Laid at rest in Broughton 
 Churchyard — Human Interest needed for the True Enjoyment of Beautiful Scenery ... 39 
 
X Contents. 
 
 WORDSWORTH AND THE DUDDON. 
 
 I'AGK 
 
 Duddon Sonnets — A Two Days' solitary Visit to the Duddon Valley in September, 1882 — 
 Seathwaite Tarn — Birks Brigg and Gowdrel Dub — Glittering Transparency of the 
 Water — Cockley Beck — Division of the Valley — Hardknot and Wrynose — Wild Deer 
 — Three Shire Stones — Source of the Duddon — Dioptrics of a running Brook — Varieties 
 of Effects in a Mountainous Country — Coming down to the Pastures and the Farms — 
 Seathwaite Church — Rev. Robert Walker " The Wonderful " — Original Information^ 
 Stepping-Stones — Wallabarrow Crag — The Red Felsite Dike — Ulpha Kirk — Dunner- 
 dale Fells — Duddon Woods — Duddon Hall— Rowfold Bridge — Flowering Plants and 
 Ferns — Buckbarrow Volcanic Crags — If England were subject to Volcanic Eruptions ? 
 — Glacier Polished Rocks — A Day with Ruskin at the Weathered Rocks of Goat's 
 Water — Ruskin's Confession of Faith in Christianity in "Proeterita" — Duddon Bridge 
 and Duddon Sands ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 53 
 
 SOME SWISS NOTES. 
 
 By the Lake of Neuchatel : The Castle and the Battle of Grandson — Yverdon — 
 Education in Switzerland— Temperance^ — Great Storm of 1877 — Bormio — The Iron 
 Gates of Cepina — Lago di Scale — Abundance of Churches and Wayside Shrines — 
 Santa Caterina — Study of Alpine Scenery — Decay and Beggary at Bormio — Cretinism 77 
 
 THE STELVIO PASS. 
 
 History of the Great Road — Ascent on Foot— Alpine compared with English Lake 
 Scenery— The Tunnels and Galleries— Hot Springs of Bormio— Dolomite— Long 
 Waterfalls— The Spondalunga— Fighting in 1858— The Zigzags— Cold barren Region 
 —Monte Cristallo— Fourth Cantoniere— Summit— View over the Ortler Range- 
 Sublime Scenery— Its Effect on Different Minds— Down to Trafoi— The Murderer 
 Tourville— The Madatsch Glaciers by Night and by Sunrise— Ruskin on Alpine 
 Scenery— The "Three Holy Springs"— The Church at Trafoi— Descent to Meran— 
 Charles Dickens on Alpine Scenery ■■• ••• 95 
 
' Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures, 
 While the landscape round it measures ; 
 Russet lawns and fallows grey, 
 Where the nibbling flocks do stray : 
 Mountains, on whose barren breast 
 The labouring clouds do often rest : 
 Meadows trim with daisies pied, 
 Shallow brooks and rivers wide. 
 Towers and battlements it sees, 
 Bosom'd high in tufted trees." 
 
 L'Allegro. 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 
 
 PART I.— HISTORICAL. 
 
 Modern History hardly less sorrowful than Mediaeval — First View of the Abbey — Wharfedale in 
 Primeval Times — Antiquity of the Church of Bolton — The Tragedy of the Strid and the 
 Foundation of Bolton Priory — Wordsworth— Traces of its Early History — The Western 
 Tower— " Blackfaced Clifford "—The Shepherd Lord— The Nut-brown Maid— Bolton 
 Abbey Granted to the Cliffords of Skipton— Disputes between the Lords of Craven — The 
 Rising in the North — The White Doe of Rylstone and the Fate of the Nortons— Personal 
 Habits of the Lords of Skipton Castle — The Castle and its Historic Portraits — The 
 Buccaneering Lord — Anne Countess of Dorset and her State — -The Countess Pillar — The 
 Bolton Abbey Estates, and the House of Cavendish. 
 
 ^ir;^ N the autumn of 1888 I spent part of a short hoHday in 
 , Iwd visiting, for the first time, the marvellously beautiful scenery 
 dll^W of that portion of Wharfedale where He, in their emerald 
 shrine, the singularly interesting ruins of Bolton Abbey. It 
 has often been remarked that our fair England, abounding as 
 it still does in lovely sylvan scenes, nowhere surpasses the 
 peerless beauties of the Bolton woods that overhang the Wharfe on 
 both its banks. Nowhere is seen such an infinite variety of manifold 
 hues of foliage ; nowhere such graceful and perpetually changing dis- 
 order of innumerable forms of richest splendour of woodland beauty. 
 
 This spot of English land abounds in most interesting historical 
 reminiscences. A stroll from Bolton Abbey by Barden Tower, and on 
 to Rylstone Fell and the melancholy ruins of Norton Tower, leads us 
 through a poetic land, filled with records of unspeakable grief and 
 sorrow that overshadow the far-distant past ; for the pages of history 
 are blotted with the tears of women and stained with the blood of 
 heroes. We are often made painfully sensible how rankly conspicuous 
 stand out the records of crime and misery above the lost and forgotten 
 annals of a human happiness, which undoubtedly did exist in abun- 
 dance ; and as we wander in peace, none molesting us, amidst these 
 
14 Holiday Studies. 
 
 calm and silent woods, we rejoice with trembling that our lot is cast in 
 happier days, when crime and open wickedness, let us hope, do perhaps 
 bear a smaller proportion to domestic and to national happiness than in 
 the mediaeval times. And yet it may be Ihat to those who shall come 
 after us, it will seem that this close of the nineteenth century was almost 
 as troubled as the centuries to which these sad ruins bear such melan- 
 choly testimony. 
 
 With no other preparation than some few historical reminiscences 
 out of Dr. Whitaker's old " History of Craven " and contributions from 
 Wordsworth's poems, we alight from our train at the recently built 
 station of Bolton Abbey, from which it is distant one mile. Our first 
 glimpse of the Abbey is caught through what is graphically called the 
 " Hole in the Wall " — a wide breach made long ago, one would think, 
 partly with the intention to destroy, but certainly more with a view to 
 the picturesque, as appropriately affording a romantic peep at a ruin 
 through a ruinous gap in a high wall* Above where now the stately 
 and majestic ruin rises in mournful pomp from its setting amidst rich 
 meadow-land, and encircled by groups of noble ash-trees (the solemn 
 abode of hooting owls), there, about the middle of the twelfth century, 
 under the earlier Plantagenets, the crystal Wharfe ran swiftly through 
 wild, tangled, and disordered woods of overgrown, untended trees, 
 sweeping with the steely gleam of a curving scimitar round the devious 
 river reaches. An awful silence reigned, broken only by the voices of 
 rolling waters, the cry of the birds, and the savage growls or yells of 
 boars and wolves. There, " O sylvan Wharfe, thou wanderer through 
 
 the woods," 
 
 "Again I hear 
 Thy waters rolHng from their mountain springs 
 With a soft inland murmur. 
 And here I stand not only with the sense 
 Of present pleasure, but with pleasing thoughts 
 That in this moment there is life and food 
 For future years." 
 
 " Yes ! for the time will come when the charm of shadows of old 
 
 * It is believed that this rude gap was made, and so left, by the Rev. W. Carr, who was 
 rector of Bolton Abbey from 1789 to 1843. To his taste and judgment Bolton Abbey and 
 Woods owe much of their present beauty. 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 15 
 
 thoughts and long-lost delights shall hang like morning mist above the 
 chanting waves of Wharfe and Greta." * 
 
 Yet, although unproved by documents, there seems a strong prob- 
 ability that the great Priory was not the first House of God erected 
 upon this favoured spot ; for notwithstanding the silence of Domesday 
 Book (which often tells us nothing where we believe it ought to speak), 
 a small rude church stood here in the Anglo-Saxon period. To this 
 day the parish church of Bolton Abbey, which is the nave of the 
 Abbey, is called the " Saxon Cure," and, therefore, here (just as in 
 the writer's church of Broughton-in-Furness, and in many other very 
 ancient parish churches) divine worship has been uninterruptedly 
 celebrated since times anterior to the Norman Conquest. Then 
 follows a sad and romantic story, of which we decline to entertain 
 historic doubts, preferring, on the whole, the testimony of tradition and 
 poetry to that of mouldy and doubtful documents, or, worse still, the 
 absence of them — docuinenta nocmnenta. 
 
 William de Meschines (that is, de M es diiens) founded in 112 1 a priory 
 church at Embsay, a few miles from Bolton, and died, leaving his 
 extensive domains to his daughter, the Lady Alice de Romilly, who 
 had an only son. This youth, a hardy and adventurous lad, fond 
 of field sports, wandering one day (his last upon earth) at large over 
 the wide uncleared forests, which formed the splendid domain of his 
 house, reached, by a well-worn path, the banks of Wharfe, at that 
 remarkable spot (intended to be hereafter described) where the breadth 
 of the river, hemmed in between two great beds or banks of hard 
 gritstone, suddenly contracts from full thirty yards to only three or 
 four feet, and rushes furiously through the deep dark gorge in a 
 frantic torrent, chafing with an incessant deep and solemn roar. 
 
 Young Romilly had many a time bounded across the dangerous 
 sword-like sweep of steel-black water ; but he forgot the deerh.ound, 
 which he was still holding in the leash. The hound refused the leap ; 
 the boy was suddenly checked on the opposite rock (in which the 
 greatest, and almost only, real danger lies), and, staggering back, was in 
 
 * " Modern Painters. " 
 
1 6 Holiday Studies. 
 
 a moment "in the arms of Wharfe, and strangled by a merciless force. 
 For never more was young Romilly seen Till he rose a lifeless corse." 
 
 Tradition says that the forester who witnessed this tragic scene 
 returned to the bereaved and widowed mother, and, endeavouring to 
 break the news gently, asked, his countenance betraying his hidden 
 meaning — " What is good for a bootless Bene ? " " What is the remedy 
 for a fruitless prayer ? " 
 
 Divining the meaning at once, she replied, " Endless sorrow." But 
 she sought consolation in works of mercy, and chiefly in raising a pious 
 monument to the dear memory of her child ; and staying some scarcely- 
 begun works at Embsay, selected this spot, two miles below the fatal 
 Strid, where the Wharfe sweeps round in a beautiful curve, embracing 
 verdant meadows on its right bank, and a rich abundance of forest 
 foliage on its left. Here, in the year 1151, the lady founded on a 
 fair level, taking in the rude edifice of the (probably) wooden Saxon 
 church already referred to, the noble Priory of Bolton Abbey, now, 
 alas ! a mere shell — a ruin, excepting the old nave, which is now the 
 parish church — a ruin with just enough of it left faintly to indicate its 
 ancient stateliness and majesty. Such is the tradition of the founding 
 of Bolton Abbey ; and its beauty may well plead for it some indulgence 
 against the merciless criticism which finds so much pleasure in sweep- 
 ing away very much that constitutes some of the principal charms of 
 history. 
 
 And the lady of Burden Tower did find solace in her pious work, for — 
 
 " Oh ! there is never sorrow of heart 
 That shall lack a timely end, 
 If but to God we turn and ask 
 Of Him to be our friend." 
 
 This is not the place for an accurate description of the Abbey, and 
 I will only mention two or three points of salient interest, of which the 
 first seems to be that Divine service has been celebrated without inter- 
 mission in the nave of the abbey (which is eighty-eight feet long) 
 from the first establishment of Christianity, the altar-table standing 
 now in, or very near, the same spot where it has stood for probably 
 ten centuries. 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 17 
 
 Following the ancient pious custom, the building of Bolton Priory 
 began with the choir, and gradually worked westward. In cathedral 
 and abbey building generally, at the crossing where the transepts 
 traverse the grand and lofty sweep of the spacious line from choir 
 to nave, it was always desired or intended to build a tower and spire — 
 a noble design rarely carried out for lack of local engineering skill to 
 secure a sufficient foundation, and to build piers thereon able to sustain 
 the ponderous tower, to say nothing of a spire upon that. At Bolton 
 Abbey this architectural feat appears to have been accomplished ; but 
 the performance was followed by a ruinous fall, involving the destruc- 
 tion of the original twelfth-century choir and transepts, which, instead 
 of now bearing evident marks (as they should) of an older date than 
 the nave, show that they were actually erected a century later, proving 
 that the tower must have fallen — the common fate of many a twelfth- or 
 thirteenth-century tower. But as so noble a work as a cathedral or an 
 abbey could not be regarded as complete without a tower, fresh ground 
 was usually opened at the western extremity, and hence it happens that 
 we so often find the tower adorning the west end, instead of adding 
 dignity to the centre of the building. 
 
 The western tower of Bolton Abbey was begun in 1520, but was 
 never completed. Twenty years later came the suppression and the 
 spoliation of the monasteries, and the building of the beautiful tower 
 was stopped, in all probability never to be resumed. The thirteenth- 
 century west window, which was to have been taken down, opening the 
 nave and tower into one, is there still, resting against the half-finished 
 tower, an instructive though far from a satisfactory lesson in English 
 history. 
 
 The Rectory, dated 1701, close to the ruins, forms an interesting 
 example of the domestic architecture of the seventeenth century. 
 
 Though here we stand on classic ground, consecrated by history, by 
 romance, and by poetry, our notices must necessarily be brief; but we 
 may not pass by the stories of Henry Clifford, the Shepherd Lord ; of 
 Anne, Countess of Dorset and Pembroke ; and the fate of the Nortons. 
 
 Referring, in our Shakespeare to the Second Part of King Hemy VI. , 
 we find named more than once the " deadly-handed Clifford," " proud 
 B 
 
1 8 Holiday Studies. 
 
 northern Lord Clifford of Cumberland " (which should, however, have 
 been Westmorland), who slew the Duke of York. In the Third Part 
 hapless young Rutland^ son of York, at Wakefield cries in terror, " Ah ! 
 tutor, see where bloody Clifford comes," as he approached to avenge his 
 father's death, and presently unarmed and defenceless the youth lay 
 slain under " blackfaced fell Clifford's sword." This dreaded warrior 
 was John, seventh Lord Clifford of Skipton Castle, which had been the 
 proud appanage of the Cliffords for 500 years. The young hope of the 
 Yorkists was but sixteen or seventeen years old, and his murderer only 
 ten years older. This accounts for the reappearance of Clifford in the 
 Third Part of King Henry VI., slain near Towton in 1461, the year 
 after his savage crime at Wakefield. Here he fell not on the battle- 
 field, but slain by a headless arrow shot from behind a bush. 
 
 After this battle, which was followed during the next ten years by 
 four more successive defeats of the house of Lancaster, the Cliffords 
 fled, their estates were confiscated, and another lord. Sir William 
 Stanley, reigned in Craven in their stead. Nothing was known or 
 even conjectured of the rightful lord for the next twenty-five years, 
 until the first year of Henry VII. Where could he be? The widow of 
 the black Clifford had married Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, a Cumberland 
 Knight, but of her children by her first marriage nothing was positively 
 known until the King, by reversing the attainder upon the Cliffords, 
 unexpectedly unveiled the mystery ; for then there came forth from the 
 wild fells of Cumberland and the lonesome glens of Skiddaw Forest, 
 under the shadow of mighty Blencathra, a man still young, who had 
 only hitherto been known as a well-conducted, rather serious-mannered, 
 thoughtful shepherd, who performed his duties like a good servant, and 
 sat at the lower end of the table in Hall, habited in the humble garb of 
 a Cumberland shepherd. But it was this simple and illiterate hind who 
 was the lawful mighty lord of so many strong castles and great domains 
 in the north, and who had been carefully hidden away in this unfre- 
 quented spot by his mother until his thirtieth year, and now was 
 restored to his rightful patrimony. 
 
 " For now another day is come, 
 Fitter hope and nobler doom ; 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 19 
 
 He hath thrown aside his crook, 
 And hath buried deep his book ; 
 Armour rusting in his halls, 
 On the blood of Clifford calls." 
 
 Song' at the Feast of Broughain Castle. 
 
 But the blast of the trumpet failed to fire any martial ardour in 
 the breast of this peaceful Clifford. His four immediate predecessors 
 had all died on the field and on the bed of honour ; but 
 
 " by Heaven's grace this Clifford's heart was framed ; 
 And he, long forced in humble walks to go, 
 Was softened into feehng, soothed and tamed. 
 Love had he found in huts where poor men lie ; 
 His daily teachers had been woods and rills, 
 The silence that is in the starry sky, 
 The sleep that is among the lonely hills. 
 In him the savage virtues of the race, 
 Revenge, and all ferocious thoughts, were dead ; 
 Nor did he change, but kept in lofty place 
 The wisdom which adversity had bred. 
 Glad were the vales and every cottage hearth ; 
 The ' shepherd lord ' was honoured more and more, 
 And ages after he was laid in earth. 
 The 'Good Lord Clifford' was the name he bore." 
 
 The rest must be more briefly told. This contemplative shepherd lord 
 withdrew to Barden Tower, the most retired of all his castles and 
 towers, about three miles up the river from Bolton Abbey. Here he 
 made friends with the good prior and monks, and along with them 
 studied to greater advantage than he had been able to study alone on 
 the Cumbrian fells the mysterious sciences of astrology and alchemy. 
 Rarely did he visit London and the Court, where, however, it is recorded 
 that he behaved nobly and wisely. Yet at the age of sixty the ancient 
 wonted fires of the Clifford blood revived in his breast when called upon 
 to resist the incursion of the Scots, and he fought unwounded at Flodden 
 Field, and died in 1523 at the age of seventy. 
 
 His later years were darkened by the misconduct of his son Henry, 
 who treated his father with most unfilial disrespect. It is said that this 
 Henry was the hero of the charming ballad of the "Nut-Brown Maid," 
 
20 Holiday Studies. 
 
 though with no other authority than that of fair conjecture from the 
 Hnes — 
 
 " Nowe undyrstande, to Westmorland, 
 Which is myne herytage, 
 I will you brynge," etc. 
 
 This young Henry CHfford, with his riotous followers, robbed and 
 plundered his father and many religious houses, now and then riding 
 out (so his father wrote), " both himself and his horse apparelled in 
 cloth of gold and goldsmiths' work, more like unto a duke than a 
 poor baron's son, as he is " — a condition of things not at all improbable 
 after a demoralising civil war and in a state of imperfect civilisation. 
 
 But it was this fine young gentleman whom " Royal Harry's" favour 
 advanced to the dignity of an earl with the Garter, and enriched by 
 a grant of the lands belonging to Bolton Priory — a reward, probably, 
 of the tenacity with which the proud baron held out the castle of 
 Skipton against the followers of Robert Aske in the Pilgrimage of 
 Grace. This first Earl of Cumberland died in 1542, at the age of 
 forty-nine. 
 
 It is hardly to be expected that very quiet times should follow 
 for noble lords and country gentlemen during the two following 
 reigns of Henry VH. and Henry VHI. ; indeed, a peaceable life with- 
 out hard knocks was not generally considered in the Tudor days to 
 be an enviable lot. Usually they fell out about the deer, and also 
 about the abolition of "the old religion." The Cliffords of Skipton 
 Castle owned many herds of red and fallow deer, which roamed at 
 large, unconfined, over those wild fells, browsing on the black crow- 
 berry {Empetrum nigrum), which almost covers the Yorkshire moors ; 
 and they little brooked the interference of even such powerful gentry 
 as the Nortons, whose land lay enclosed in the midst of the far wider 
 domains of the Cliffords. The deer disdaining all natural boundaries, 
 and there being no walls or fences to keep them within their own 
 bounds, there would naturally arise frequent feuds and fightings 
 between wrathful nobles with large armed retinues at their backs ; 
 and now and then there would be a law-suit, in one of which, accord- 
 ing to the records preserved, the witness of many old " forsters " or 
 
 1 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 21 
 
 foresters being taken, one of these men had seen " my old Lady 
 Clifford " (first wife of the Shepherd Lord) " hunt in Rilstone lordship 
 and ' hound ' greyhounds, and kill two fat bucks and carry them off." 
 Many mighty huntings done in each other's despite made their pleasure 
 a pretext for many a bloody conflict between these fierce barons. 
 
 But a far more serious source of disquietude was the violent 
 changing of the religion of the National Church. The forcible spolia- 
 tion of all the Abbey lands and revenues, and the sudden cessation 
 of accustomed religious services accompanied with a lofty and mag- 
 nificent ritual, and the gradual substitution of a simpler, but (as it 
 seemed to most Catholics) a meagre and unimpressive, ceremonial, 
 gave great offence to the Northern lords and their numerous depend- 
 ents, and in 1540 the Pilgrimage of Grace (as the unhappy rising 
 under Robert Aske was called) was quelled and punished with merci- 
 less severity. It was just at this time that the building of the west 
 tower of Bolton Abbey was stopped at the point where we now see 
 it ; and soon after, no doubt, the unroofing of chancel and transepts, 
 and the destruction of richly-storied window and of lordly monument, 
 left the graceful structure the empty shell we now behold with such 
 a strange mixture of admiration and of regret. The edifices which 
 men raise endure but a few generations — a few centuries at the most ; 
 but ruins last for ever, kind Nature sheltering and adorning them with 
 tenderest care. 
 
 In the twelfth year of Queen Elizabeth (in 1569), a second rising 
 against the reformed faith and worship took place — a rash enterprise 
 in which the venerable prior and monks of Bolton Abbey were but 
 too painfully interested. The origin of the story I am about briefly 
 to narrate is told in Wordsworth's lofty poem, the " White Doe. of 
 Rylstone ; " in " The Rising in the North," in Percy^s Reliques ; and in 
 Dr. Whitaker's " History of Craven." 
 
 Something of romance has the poet woven with magic art in the 
 tissue of his historic narrative ; but we shall probably not be deviating 
 very far from historic truth if we follow the tale as he tells it in his 
 musical lines. After the early years of the " spacious times of great 
 Elizabeth," each Sunday, as the bells pealed forth from the low Abbey 
 
22 Holiday Studies. 
 
 tower, the neighbouring inhabitants poured down across the pathless * 
 meadows to worship in the " one protected part — a chapel like a wild 
 bird's nest." There 
 
 "They sing a service which they feel, 
 For 'tis the sunrise now of zeal : 
 Of a pure faith the vernal prime 
 In Great Eliza's golden time." 
 
 And while, to the murmuring voice of the flowing river, the solemn 
 liturgy is proceeding, there glides in among the ruins, wandering from 
 the distant fells of Rylstone, a milk-white solitary doe. Softly she 
 paces from bowered niche to prostrate tomb, and then lies still amidst 
 the covert until the congregation rise to return to their homes ; and 
 then she too rises, and slowly trots on her lonely way back to the 
 Norton Woods. This was the famous traditional White Doe of 
 Rylstone. At the date above indicated, Richard Norton of Norton 
 Conyers was living, like a great country gentleman, in a strong 
 tower, with spacious pleasure-grounds and terraces embosomed in 
 thick forests, well stocked with game. Grey-haired, but warlike still 
 and valiant, he moved with stately mien in the midst of his natural 
 body-guard of eight stalwart sons, graced by the addition of one 
 lovely daughter, Emily. One fatal day he received a hasty note 
 from Earl Percy of Northumberland, summoning him to a desperate 
 enterprise fraught with the utmost danger. Thomas Percy (seventh 
 Earl of Northumberland) and the Earl of Westmorland, filled with 
 discontent at the refusal of the Queen to compose the differences 
 between herself and Mary Queen of Scots by the marriage of the 
 latter with the Protestant Duke of Norfolk, and, more still, animated 
 with the desire to cause 
 
 " The rites of ancient piety 
 To be triumphantly restored 
 By the stern justice of the sword," 
 
 had invited Richard Norton to join them in a rising against the Queen's 
 authority. He, a staunch adherent to the old worship, permitting the 
 kindling enthusiasm of religion to stifle the claims of loyalty, arose and 
 
 * And they are still pathless. 
 
 1 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 23 
 
 called on his eight sons to join the enterprise. All obeyed the call save 
 Francis, the eldest, who had embraced the newly received doctrines. 
 He pleaded — 
 
 "A just and gracious queen have we, 
 A pure religion, and the claim 
 Of peace on our humanity." 
 
 Emily had wrought a splendid silken banner, on which were figured 
 a cross and the five wounds of Christ — 
 
 " Full soon to be uplifted high, 
 And float in rueful company," 
 
 with the banner of the Dun Bull of Westmorland and the Silver Crescent 
 of Earl Percy. The rest of the story is deeply tragic. The two earls, 
 
 " Grave gentry of estate and name, 
 And captains known for worth in arms," 
 
 through profuse hospitality, had but slender means for raising and main- 
 taining an army, and Richard Norton had still less. The old Percy 
 Ballad gives us a picture of Royal Elizabeth painted, we shrewdly 
 suspect, to the very life ; for her Majesty's lips were but little used 
 to dropping honeyed words. 
 
 "Her Grace she turned her round about. 
 And like a Royall Queene she swore, 
 ' I will ordayne them such a breakfast 
 As never was in the North before.' " 
 
 Her indignant Majesty sent northward a powerful force under the 
 Earl of Sussex, Dudley, Earl of Warwick, and Lord Hunsden, which the 
 ill-advised insurgents dared not stay to face in the field, but dissolved 
 and scattered themselves in all directions. The customary inhuman 
 cruelties followed. Vast numbers were executed by martial law with- 
 out trial. The fair " North Countree " was made desolate, and the Earl 
 of Northumberland fled into Scotland, was betrayed and imprisoned 
 in Loch Leven Castle, and then carried again to York, where he soon 
 laid his head upon the block. 
 
 , And the gallant aged lord of Norton Tower and his noble brood 
 of sons, that " fair unrivalled brotherhood," they, too, mingled their 
 blood, not on the battle-field, the warrior's coveted privilege, but, alas ! 
 
24 Holiday Studies. 
 
 on one and the same block. One alone, the unarmed Francis, 
 pushing his way across the wilds of Craven with the consecrated banner, 
 fell amidst a horde of outlaws within a day's journey of his deserted 
 home, on the barren spot still called Standard Hill ; and poor desolate 
 Emily was left a lonely mourner. From the time that she was laid at 
 rest in the still-used God's Acre of the consecrated ruin, there her 
 favourite, the white doe, paid her weekly visits on the hallowed day, 
 observed, yet unmolested, and regarded with a wondering veneration by 
 the peasantry of Craven. So runs the popular tradition which still sur- 
 vives, its truth respected and acknowledged, a beautiful legend of an 
 olden time in which such olden stories shine like lights in a dark place. 
 
 Dr. Whitaker collects a few particulars belonging to this time of 
 the personal habits and expenses of the powerful lords of Skipton and 
 Bolton, out of four MS. folios dated 1606, 1634, 1637, and 1638, which 
 are still carefully kept at Bolton Hall. The establishment at Skipton 
 consisted of thirty-two servants, who cost about i^ 1,000 a year. The 
 chief other expenses were for vast quantities of wine, claret, sack, and 
 muscadine, sj)irituous liquors not being mentioned. Tobacco was a 
 heavy item, being eighteen shillings a pound. Travelling was very 
 expensive, the young Lord George never riding to Court with fewer 
 than thirty-six gentlemen sumptuously mounted on horseback. A 
 single suit of clothes for Lord Clifford would cost about ;!^200 of our 
 money. Sealskin gloves and " sleeping gloves," no doubt to whiten the 
 hands, are also mentioned, and a black suit of figured satin for " my 
 old lord." The " wardropp " of Skipton Castle is stated in an original 
 roll kept at Bolton Abbey to have been very costly and sumptuous : 
 gowns of black velvet or figured satin, lined with squirrel, a crimson 
 velvet kirtle with hood for a Knight of the Garter, robes of blue velvet 
 with yards of blue silk and gold ribbon tied at the shoulders, to be worn 
 at St. George's feast, with much more of rich apparel of the greatest 
 interest to students of the manners of the seventeenth century. Presents 
 of fish, black game, and wild fowl were constantly made, for which the 
 bearer received generally a gratuity of as much as the game was worth. 
 Stags were sent as presents baked whole. The enormous " stagg pies " 
 were flavoured with currants and lemons. Animal food was extremely 
 
 1 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 25 
 
 cheap, while such luxuries as sugar " for the sack " were so expensive 
 that two pounds of sugar were equal in value to a fat sheep. Having 
 no newspapers, great families were supplied with news by paid 
 secretaries in London, who regularly furnished their employers with 
 " news-letters " at the charge of about ^10 a year. 
 
 In the strong and ancient castle of Skipton in Craven, whose walls 
 are nine to twelve feet thick, and the bases of whose seven massive 
 round towers resemble the base of the Eddystone Lighthouse, and fix 
 their broad, tenacious grasp on the solid rock like the British oak — in 
 this historic fortress"^ hangs a celebrated old family picture, representing, 
 in faded colours, George^ third Earl of Cumberland, fourteenth Baron 
 Clifford, and thirteenth Lord of the Honor of Skipton in Craven, 
 Lord Vipont, Baron Vesci, and probably owner of many titles more. 
 This nobleman was one of our famous sea-kings, and served his 
 sovereign gallantly in nine voyages on the high seas in American 
 waters. In his other portrait (still hanging at Bolton Hall) the thin, 
 spare countenance bears some appreciable resemblance to that of 
 the chiefest of our sea-captains — Lord Nelson. His " fair, virtuous, 
 and only lady," the Lady Margaret Russel, daughter of the second 
 Earl of Bedford, stands by his side. Next in order come two sons, 
 who died in early youth ; and then, separately framed, the famous 
 Anne herself, Countess of Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery, who 
 was born in Skipton Castle in 1590. By the deaths of several noble 
 relatives, vast estates fell into the possession of this great lady ; and 
 it must be acknowledged that she managed her large property in a 
 manner becoming not only her great power and wealth, but attest- 
 inp- also her wisdom and the excellence of her heart. 
 
 Thirty-eight years of family discord having been brought to a 
 close in 1605 1 by the death of George, third Earl of Cumberland, the 
 
 * Now removed to Appleby. 
 
 t "The discord especially raged after the death of Henry the first earl, when the two rival 
 heiresses quarrelled and fought for their inheritance, till the King decided that they should 
 divide it. The whole property had, I think, gone first to George's younger brother Francis, 
 fourth earl, and from him to his son Henry, fifth and last earl. It was at his death that the 
 heiress of the third earl claimed the whole property, and at last obtained half." — Letter from 
 one of the family to the author. 
 
'26 Holiday Studies. 
 
 Countess Anne entered upon the inheritance of her ancestors. In her 
 youth, though only a slender allowance had been made to her, she 
 had devoted a fourth of it to acts of beneficence. In mature life, 
 " being delivered first from a profligate and then a fanatical husband," 
 she became able fully to indulge in the exercise of the pure religious 
 principles she had inherited from her excellent mother, and was 
 gifted with a long life, which she made illustrious by the display — 
 somewhat ostentatious, perhaps — of her many virtues. According to 
 the interesting notice of her life by Dr. Whitaker, " she had the 
 courage and liberality of the ruder sex, and was endowed with all 
 the devotion, order, and economy of her own, though, perhaps, with 
 not all its softness." 
 
 Now free to act, she entered upon her natural element, and set 
 about her great work of restoring her castles, of which six — namely, 
 Skipton, Barden, Brougham, Pendragon, Brough, and Appleby — had 
 been almost destroyed during the civil wars of the Commonwealth, 
 and were now in ruins. Over the principal gateway of each restored 
 castle she set up an inscription stating the name and rank of the 
 restorer, together with the verse (Isaiah Iviii. 12), "And they that 
 shall be of thee shall build the old waste places. Thou shalt raise 
 up the foundations of many generations, and thou shalt be called the 
 repairer of the breach, the restorer of paths to dwell in." " Removing 
 from castle to castle," adds Dr. Whitaker, "she diffused happiness 
 and plenty around her by consuming on the spot the produce of her 
 vast domains in hospitality and charity. Her house was a school 
 for the young and a retreat for the aged, an asylum for the per- 
 secuted, a college for the learned, and a pattern to all." Three 
 monuments, erected at her expense, attest her reverence and admira- 
 tion for Daniel (her tutor in languages), for Michael Drayton, and 
 for Edmund Spenser, the last being in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 I quote, merely to dismiss summarily as probably a curious example 
 of literary forgery, the famous laconic letter, once generally believed, 
 and still believed by some, to have been written by her own hand to a 
 Secretary of State of Charles II., who is supposed to have presumed 
 to recommend to her a candidate for her borough of Appleby : — 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 27 
 
 " I have been bullied by an usurper ; I have been neglected by a Court ; but 
 I will not be dictated to by a subject. Your man shan't stand. — Ann Dorset 
 Pembroke and Montgomery." 
 
 This remarkable document was only discovered in 1753, and pub- 
 lished in a periodical paper called The World. No authority was 
 given as a voucher for its authenticity. The curt style is not the 
 countess's, and the words " bullied " and " stand," in the sense there 
 used, had not yet come into vogue. I fear that the letter can no 
 more stand than could the candidate. 
 
 This celebrated lady was buried at Appleby, in a splendid tomb 
 erected by herself; and the inscription records that she was born 
 January 30, 1590; and died March 22, 1675. She was, therefore, not 
 eighty-seven years of age, as stated by Dr. Whitaker, but eighty-five. 
 
 On the spot, between Penrith and Brough, where the great 
 countess last parted with her beloved mother, she caused a com- 
 memorative pillar to be raised, about twenty feet high, in the rather 
 heavy and ungraceful style of the time, which, being carefully fenced 
 in, is still standing uninjured, and is called the " Countess Pillar." 
 On a slab of stone hard by is still annually distributed the sum of 
 four pounds among the poor of the parish of Brougham, left hy 
 the countess for that purpose. 
 
 The Bolton Abbey estates came into the possession of the house 
 of Cavendish by marriage. Francis, fourth Earl and younger brother 
 of George, third Earl of Cumberland, was father of Henry, fifth and last 
 Earl, who died in 1697, leaving a daughter, the Lady Elizabeth Clifford, 
 who married Lord Dungarvon, created first Earl of Burlington, whose 
 daughter, the Lady Charlotte Boyle, married in 1720 the Marquis of 
 Hartington, great-grandson of the Earl of Devonshire who was created 
 Duke of Devonshire in 1694. By the marriage of this illustrious states- 
 man (who took an active part in seating the House of Orange on the 
 throne), all the estates of the wealthy Boyle family in Craven came 
 into the possession of the Cavendish family. From him is descended 
 William, the present and seventh Duke of Devonshire, K.G., F.R.S., 
 the noble owner of Bolton Abbey, of princely Chatsworth, and of the 
 more home-like, but not less beautiful, Holker in Cartmel, 
 
28 Holiday Studies. 
 
 PART II.— DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 The Strid — Rev. W. Carr and the Picturesque Rustic Seats — The Loveliness of the Woods in 
 Spring — Subdued Light for Woodland Scenery — Barden Tower — Characteristics of Spring 
 Foliage — The Mountain Ash and above-ground Roots— The Valley of Desolation — The 
 Great Waterspout of 1826— Posforth Gill — Formation of Mountain Streams — Heber's Ghyll 
 — Weathering of Rocks — Bolton Abbey Churchyard — Nature the Beautifier of Ruin and 
 Decay — Lord Frederick Cavendish — The Good Time that will come,- "though it tarry." 
 
 May 27, 1889. — After spending a Sunday in the hospitable old 
 Rectory, and having taken part in the services of the noble church which 
 now fills all the western half of Bolton Abbey, I find myself at this 
 moment sitting on a rounded slab of gritstone by the far-famed Strid. 
 Here the Wharfe, which, says Ruskin, " never could Turner revisit 
 without tears," after having wound its devious way for many miles 
 amongst scenes of that indescribable sylvan and pastoral beauty which 
 is produced by the combination of either moving or sleeping waters with 
 bold and shattered rock, or of green and grassy glades with masses of 
 perpetually varying moorland light and shade, is pent in by huge masses 
 of the hardest rock he has yet pierced in his whole course ; and after 
 enjoying his freedom in a breadth of some thirty yards, he has had to 
 force a narrow passage of from ten to only a couple of yards, or even of 
 four feet six, in width. To push the whole of his liquid body through 
 this narrow gorge, when not in flood, costs him a world of pain^ and puts 
 him in a great fury, and here he has chafed and roared incessantly for 
 millenniums without succeeding in making for himself a more conve- 
 nient passage. 
 
 Here at my feet, after having tumbled over the slight first fall, and 
 scampered down the rapid slopes, he is now rushing with a deep bass 
 roaring. The greenish, clear brown stream is rippled and corrugated 
 as if corded with swollen muscles, and is crested with a pale yellowish 
 foam. No cliffs confine the narrow chasm, but the huge, smoothly 
 rounded slabs of the mossy rocks glisten and glow with the bright sheen 
 of the emerald and the topaz. The river to-day is unusually shallow, yet 
 the noise and battle-din of the rushing waters are endless. The rock 
 where I am sitting, ten feet above the usual level of the water, has 
 
 \ 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 29 
 
 evidently been covered not long ago by the swollen river to a depth 
 equal to ten feet higher than my seat. Curiously shaped circular 
 hollows, called pot-holes, in parts of the gritstone of less hardness, have 
 been by slow degrees scooped out of the tough rock, that almost defies 
 the chisel, the axe, and the hammer. Lying at the bottom of the pots, 
 which are from three to even eight feet deep, you may see the round 
 boulders and the smooth pebbles whose perpetual grinding and eddy- 
 ing round and round has slowly elaborated these singular holes. 
 Similar pot-holes exist on a much larger scale in the famous so-called 
 glacier garden at Lucerne, with the polished globular boulders, the size 
 of a man's head, still lying at the bottom of them. 
 
 At the striding place where young Romilly met his fate, the opposing 
 rocks approach each other within a space of four feet six or five feet. 
 Here the water for ever roars past with a terrible violence almost 
 resembling the sweep of a sabre wielded by some mighty arm. Few 
 venture across, nor is there any inducement to cross except the display 
 of a sure foot and a steady eye. The two stepping places by which the 
 Strid is rather rashly stridden over are easily discerned by the worn 
 appearance of the stone. They do not look inviting, nor do even the 
 life buoys and the long pole hanging near at hand suggest reassuring 
 ideas. The step or stride across must be nicely calculated. Too far is 
 even more dangerous than a little short. 
 
 I change my seat. The lord of these pleasant woods has, for the 
 pleasure and refreshment of numerous visitors, placed a seat at every 
 spot where some fresh and lovely prospect opens out, and, therefore, 
 the charming rustic resting places are very numerous. Wherever you 
 find a seat, there you may be sure is a view of more than usual 
 attractiveness. From this spot I see far below me the curving river 
 winding through the green-wood in form like a silver bow with its 
 convex at my feet. To my right it is still wide. To the left it has 
 begun to contract itself into a narrower bed, and is beginning to fume 
 and fret at the prospect of immediate incarceration. The reaches of the 
 river in all directions are bordered by trees, bending gracefully and 
 dipping down their foliage to the very water's edge ; not great, park- 
 like trees, but sycamores, ash, beech, elm, and holly. The oaks at 
 
30 Holiday Studies. 
 
 Bolton are not of great size, except one by the road-side near the 
 station, called " Queen Elizabeth." 
 
 All are now gay and glittering in all the glory of their May attire, 
 where spring and summer meet : while the rich undergrowth, especially 
 on the opposite or Barden side, is delicately tinted in many places with 
 what looks like wreaths of light blue vapour, with a near resemblance to 
 light clouds of peat smoke wafted by a gentle wind, but consists in 
 reality of great beds of blue hyacinths in their thousands, while here 
 and there one might be picked out of purest white, and admirably 
 contrasted in places with rosy clouds of red campions. Elsewhere 
 it is the forget-me-nots in a faint blue mist which seem to throw a 
 pale reflection of the heavens beneath the heavy foliage of the trees. 
 There again are sweet beds of woodruff, and other beds equally like 
 the stars of heaven for number and for sheen, though far from sweet 
 to the scent, of the Allium iirsinum, or garlic. And there are modest- 
 looking water-avens meekly bowing down their heads of ruddy velvet. 
 Above, below, before, behind, I seem to see the blessing of God upon 
 His creatures irradiating the ample face of universal nature, insomuch 
 that " they laugh for joy, they also sing," and one understands the 
 fervent poetry of the sweet psalmist of Israel, in whose eyes " the 
 mountains skipped like rams, and the little hills like lambs." What 
 beautiful and pleasant places has the God of love provided on this 
 earth, which fallen man has so desecrated ! 
 
 Though the day is none of the brightest and the sky somewhat 
 threatening, it does not matter ; so much the better. English woodland 
 scenery being so exceedingly rich and luxuriant, is none the worse for 
 being viewed under a mild, subdued light, which brings out the contrasts 
 and the harmonies of colour and shade better than a bright and garish 
 sunshine. 
 
 Once more I change my position. I am now on the Barden or 
 right bank of the river, at a fair elevation, but not yet out of the 
 wood. We sit in an arbour, rudely and strongly built of oak, command- 
 ing a distant view of the ruins of Barden Tower, rising from among the 
 woods, the chosen residence of the " good Lord Clifford," and of his 
 descendant the great countess Ann, whose tiny little clogs (probably 
 
 1 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 3^ 
 
 worn in her girlhood) I have just been shown at the hall, together 
 with a straw bonnet of the Duchess of Devonshire,* not at all 
 like the famous Gainsborough. A portrait of the countess, in 
 the same house, shows her, by her firm and compressed lips, to 
 have certainly been a stern woman, accustomed to command, who 
 would be able to say, with unanswerable energy, " Your man shan't 
 stand ! " Barden Tower has fallen into ruins, not by the brunt of war, 
 but simply by disuse and neglect, and by having been long abused as a 
 handy quarry of ready-hewn stones, and a wood-house for firewood and 
 shaped timber by neighbouring builders — a felonious act overlooked 
 then, but never permitted now. This arbour, like every other seat 
 (placed by a former rector, the good William Carr, by the permission of 
 the Duke), commands also a magnificent reach of the river, where I can 
 see the trout, and his cousin the grayling, leaping together. And I see 
 beneath me and before me, across the river, the soft and tender golden- 
 greens of the budding oak, and the bluish shade of the full-leaved 
 sycamore, and the still half-naked, upturned ends of the ash-boughs, 
 all refreshed and shining like jewels in the sun after the small and 
 gentle rain, which has been falling with little intermission. f 
 
 Lower down we meet with a curiosity. A tall and slender young 
 mountain-ash rises straight up from the centre of the rounded top of a 
 mossy boulder, which it clasps with four claws, which root into the soil 
 and furnish the tree with a fourfold root above ground. This is a great 
 and inexplicable puzzle. The bark has been much disfigured by names 
 cut into it, but is now protected by a stout paling. 
 
 May 29. — The long and winding gill called " The Valley of Desola- 
 tion " supplies the combination which is often felt welcome after beauty 
 in too great profusion. The effect is the same as that of the timely and 
 artful discord sometimes introduced to give prominence to the har- 
 monies of a finished composition. Browning (adopting, perhaps, the 
 idea of Wagner) asks, " Why rushed the discord in, but that harmony 
 should be praised .'' " 
 
 In the year 1826 a fearful storm raged over the valley of the 
 
 * This is the story as it is told by the housekeeper, but unauthorised by the family, 
 t The annual rainfall here is only 29 inches. 
 
32 Holiday Studies. 
 
 Wharfe, and a great waterspout travelled slowly down the Posforth 
 Gill, accompanied with thunder and lightning, twisting and wrenching 
 huge branches off the oaks, and in some cases entirely stripping a 
 mighty monarch of the forest, and leaving nothing but a gaunt and 
 blackened carcase standing. The ravages of that great storm are still 
 apparent in the strange sight of a number of what were once stalwart 
 trees in the path of the destroyer, and nov/ are struggling between life 
 and death. The whole moor is bleak and inhospitable in the extreme, 
 except down in the gill, where the stream (which has at times raged 
 with the utmost fury) is now at least, with its beautiful waterfall, a scene 
 of the greatest woodland beauty. Not many people there seem to be 
 able to account for the existence in one spot of such a number of 
 blackened, blasted trees, so soon does the memory of a remarkable 
 event in some cases pass away. The cause I have described is that 
 stated by the noble owner, who has many undoubted claims besides 
 his scientific knowledge to be an authority. 
 
 All down the gill vast blocks of boulders lie about in confusion. It 
 might be thought that so insignificant a stream as this, and much more 
 that of Heber's Ghyll, near Ilkley, would be totally inadequate to pro- 
 duce such results. But once or twice in a century comes a tremendous 
 storm, when huge stones are rolled down off the moors, and hurled 
 further down by the powerful torrents, to be deposited in the swollen 
 and expanded bed of the stream. Intense frosts and more destructive 
 thaws, occurring at distant intervals, break up ponderous pillars of stone 
 into slabs, and split them up with incredible force ; and I happen just 
 recently to have noticed in my own parish a bare flat surface of slaty 
 rock, four feet across, freshly trisected by some force, which could only 
 have been that of frost. 
 
 Again, a thin and rapid mountain rill passing, in various moods, 
 over a sloping moorland surface (as at Heber's Ghyll) will, in the 
 process of the ages, wear down the hardest millstone-grit, dividing it 
 into vast blocks, which have all the appearance of having been swept 
 down from above by some irresistible torrent, but have, in fact, lain 
 there in the same spot, to be slowly carved out into those shapeless 
 blocks, which have been knocked about and hurled against each other 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 33 
 
 in great floods, but not transported to any distance. Kind, artistic, pic- 
 turesque Nature covers the more sheltered blocks with moss and ferns, 
 and borders the stream with water-loving shrubs and trees ; and so we 
 get most of our beautiful ravines and mountain gills. 
 
 Such processes are repeated century after century during geological 
 ages, to which historic periods are as nothing. The mere chemical 
 effect of the atmospheric weathering on fixed rocks assists in working 
 out these varying aspects of nature ; and these slow and sure, these rare 
 and remote changes, account for much, if not all, of the strange com- 
 bination of craggy and woodland scenery which constitutes the principal 
 charm of the valley of the Wharfe and of the Yorkshire moors. 
 
 Thus have we wandered on from one beautiful, interesting scene to 
 another, consecrated some to the sylvan pride of sweet and rural 
 loveliness which enshrines in an aureole of glory so many of the stately 
 ancestral homes of England, and some to scenes rendered memorable by 
 the piety of our forefathers, or the valour and the worth of the ancestors 
 of our old English aristocracy. 
 
 Can we more fitly conclude our pilgrimage than on the ancient 
 hallowed soil where the feet of so many generations have trod in silent 
 reverence over the ashes of the dead from Alfred to Victoria ? 
 
 Where Art and Science fail, the loving God of Nature interposes 
 and spreads a tender beauty over the ruined works of men. The dry 
 stone fences, the crumbling mortared wall, are in time overspread with 
 the delicate drapery of the wall-pellitory, the golden bloom of the 
 wallflower, the snapdragon, the pink, and scores more of the native 
 vestments which are everywhere provided to adorn decay and conceal 
 ruin. Soft green cushions of moss display their full and graceful curves 
 on dry stone fences, and silver-grey lichens and red or orange mould 
 invest the rocks and the boulders, as well as the ancient standing walls, 
 with a venerable glory, of which only the absence can enable us to 
 understand all the loveliness. 
 
 Here in the consecrated pile which crowns the scene with its silent, 
 solemn grandeur, here within hearing of the rushing of the water through 
 the far-famed stepping-stones, here where the noiseless feet of the milk- 
 white doe padded on the hallowed turf, the Romillys, the Cliffords, 
 
 C 
 
34 Holiday Studies. 
 
 the Nortons, and the Cavendishes have worshipped from generation to 
 generation ; and here rest in peace until the coming of the Son of Man 
 in glory the mortal remains of friar and monk, of prince and peasant. 
 
 And here in this sweet and most peaceful spot, where sternness and 
 power blend with the sweet peace of tender decay, here for ages. and 
 generations to come will the moistened eye dwell with deep and 
 reverent emotion on the solemnly beautiful memorial of one dis- 
 tinguished amongst so many of the loved and honoured. We are 
 gazing upon the memorial, a lovely white runic cross, raised here in 
 the Dale of Wharfe, to one whose mortal remains lie resting in peace at 
 Edensor, hard by the princely palace of the Peak. To Lord Frederick 
 Cavendish, the beloved son of the noble Duke whose honoured life is 
 still prolonged among us, stands nobly lifting up its head to the height 
 of seventeen feet among the humbler memorials of the dalesmen, a pure 
 white free-stone runic cross with the following inscription : — 
 
 " To the beloved memory of Lord Frederick Charles Cavendish, son of William, 
 7th Duke of Devonshire, and of Blanche Georgiana, his wife. Born November 30th, 
 1836. He went out as Chief Secretary to Ireland, 'Full of love to that country, full 
 of hope for her future, full of capacity to render her service,' and was murdered in 
 the Phcenix Park, Dublin, within twelve hours of his arrival. May 6th, 1882. 'The 
 Lord grant thee thy heart's desire, and fulfil all thy mind.' " 
 
 Another memorial, a bronze statue, at Barrow-in-Furness, bears the 
 following lines : — 
 
 " Love thyself last ; cherish those hearts that hate thee, 
 " Still in thy right hand carry gentle peace 
 "To silence envious tongues. Be just and fear not. 
 " Let all the ends thou aim'st at be thy country's, 
 " Thy God's, and truth's. Then if thou fall'st 
 "Thou fall'st a blessed martyr." 
 
 In Edensor churchyard Lord Frederick was interred in a grave of 
 the utmost simplicity. On a beautiful tablet in the church after the 
 name and dates is inscribed — 
 
 " Blessed are the peace makers : for they shall be called the children of God." 
 " Blessed are the pure in heart : for they shall see God." 
 
Bolton Abbey and Woods. 35 
 
 And on the fine table tomb in Cartmel Priory Church, under the re- 
 cumbent figure in white marble, are the words : — 
 
 *' Died in the service of his country and the defence of his friend." 
 
 " Who shall ascend into the hill of the Lord ? or who shall stand in His Holy 
 Place ? He that hath clean hands and a pure heart." 
 
 Many of the house of Cavendish have given the service or the 
 sacrifice of their lives to their King, their country, and their God. Many 
 have fallen nobly, covered with all the glory that earth can give. To 
 Frederick Cavendish belongs as high and worthy a distinction as any 
 that the best and noblest of the court and camp of Queen Victoria's 
 reign can desire, the glory of having fallen a herald of peace, the 
 defender of his land against disorder and sedition, the noble champion 
 and forerunner of a happier time that is yet to come, and will come. 
 "For the vision is yet for the appointed time, and it hasteth toward the 
 end, and shall not lie. Though it tarry, wait for it, because it will surely 
 come, it will not delay." 
 
raorbciwortb'0 ** Mcstmoiianb 6ivi;' 
 
wordsworth's "westmorland 
 
 Girl." 
 
 Broughton-in-Furness and the Duddon — Sarah Mackereth, "The "Westmorland Girl" — Her 
 Beauty and Refinement — Fading Away — Unexpected Discovery that she was Wordsworth's 
 Heroine, his "Lamb Deliverer" — Story of the Deliverance of the Lamb from Drowning — ■ 
 The Scene by Grasmere Lake — Primitive Times at Grasmere — Sarah Tolling the Passing 
 Bell — Sarah "loved all things great and small" — Nathaniel Hawthorne at Grasmere — 
 Passing away — Visited by Angels^Laid at rest in Broughton Churchyard — Human Interest 
 needed for the True Enjoyment of Beautiful Scenery. 
 
 BOUT the month of February, 1872, I received information 
 that a woman in my parish of the humbler class was in 
 a very weak and suffering state. The distance from the 
 vicarage was but five minutes' walk, and I was soon in her 
 neat little cottage. Sarah Davies was but a new-comer into 
 the parish. Her husband had obtained agricultural employ- 
 ment, and he and his wife and two little girls had been settled but a 
 few weeks in a cottage commanding a lovely view, bordering on 
 the Lake country, if not actually part of it. The cottage stood on 
 a gentle elevation. Beneath lay the wide and level estuary of the 
 Duddon_, which here spreads into the broad expanse known as the 
 Duddon Sands. Northward appears the opening between the two 
 rocky fells of Bleansley Bank and Stoneside into the richly-wooded, 
 verdure-clad valley of the Duddon, our great poet's " Duddon, long-loved 
 Duddon, child of the clouds." To the right, nestling and embosomed 
 between low hills, lies, compact and close, the little whitewashed and 
 slate-roofed town of Broughton-in-Furness, with its quaint old church — 
 some of it older than Furness Abbey — standing amidst green meadows 
 apart from the town, and the single line of railway sweeping past, till 
 lost in the deep rock cutting, which is crowned by the ancient battle- 
 ments of Broughton Tower. That noble mountain. Black Combe, 
 rises conspicuously before us over the Duddon Sands at no greater 
 distance than six or seven miles, its gentle slopes and long, sweeping 
 
1 
 
 40 
 
 Holiday Studies. 
 
 sides contrasting finely with the dark and rugged hollow that descends 
 — steep, frowning, and inaccessible — from its majestic summit, and from 
 which it appears to derive its name of Black Combe,"^ .which connects it 
 with the Welsh Cwms. Another huge mountain mass rises almost in 
 the same line with Black Combe, at a distance from it of some twelve 
 
 RYDAL MOUNT. 
 
 or thirteen miles in the south-west, Broughton lying nearly between the 
 two. This is Coniston Old Man, with its brother heights, the Dow 
 Crags and Walna Scar, or White Pike. The view is bounded at the 
 farthest south by the sea, and by the puffing chimney-stalks of Barrow 
 and Askam, and the busy furnaces of Millom, where Hodbarrow fuses 
 its mineral wealth ; to the north, with a fine contrast, Sarah might daily 
 fix her eyes, with a last lingering, fond gaze, upon her native mountains 
 of Rydal Head, Fairfield, and Kirkstone, rising pale blue in the distance 
 
 * " Or Black Combe (dread name, 
 Derived from clouds and storms)." 
 
Woj?DswoiiTB's " Westmorland Girl:' 41 
 
 from between the heights that encircle lovely Coniston and Winder- 
 mere. But external nature, with all her charms, can only occupy the 
 mind in its leisure hours of quiet peace and meditation. The visitor of 
 the sick leaves these thoughts at the door when he enters the sick 
 chamber. 
 
 Sarah was a rather tall woman, past her thirty-seventh year, possess- 
 ing features of singular delicacy and refinement — quite enough, indeed, 
 to entitle her to be described as beautiful — even very beautiful. Dark 
 hair of raven blackness, always smoothed and parted with the most 
 perfect neatness, shaded a face now transparently thin, pale, and deli- 
 cate, but once evidently bright with joy and love and animation ; eyes 
 deep and dark, with all a wife's and a mother's beaming softness when 
 she spoke of those who were so dear to her, and from whom she knew 
 well she would soon be called to part for this life. I cannot resist 
 speaking of the singular beauty and refinement of that countenance, 
 chiefly because it reflected the purity and the charity of the heart 
 within. 
 
 I generally found her lying, in her snow-white garments, in a room 
 where all was of the same snowy whiteness in its perfect cleanliness. 
 Fair flowers stood in the window ; the air of the room was always sweet 
 and pure. Consumption was rapidly wastmg her frame away ; and a 
 babe was born of her who seemed as if her own life was to be counted 
 by days rather than by weeks. But the quiet confidence of her soul in 
 the peace that trust in Jesus alone can give was never once disturbed 
 during her long and severe trial. In her wonderful calmness and 
 patience she yet asked, " Was she patient } " " Did we think she was 
 impatient .'' " No, indeed ; it was evident that Jesus was her stay in the 
 darkest hour. 
 
 How full of the truest hope and consolation is this knowledge, 
 which we gain from experience of the death-beds of those who die in 
 the Lord, that when earth is fading away, its ties loosening day by day, 
 and weakness prostrates the body wholly and the mind in part, yet t/ie/i 
 is felt, with a reality which nothing earthly can equal, that God is sup- 
 porting our failing strength ; that He gives us to see what mortal eyes 
 in the bustle and business of life can only faintly discern ; that the 
 
42 Holiday Studies. 
 
 Redeemer then seems to be whispering to our innermost heart : " Fear 
 not, for I am with thee ; I have called thee by thy name ; thou art 
 Mine. When thou passest through the waters, I v/ill be with thee ; and 
 through the rivers, they shall not overflow thee. When thou walkest 
 through the fire, thou shalt not be burned ; neither shall the flame 
 kindle upon thee. For I am the Lord thy God, the Holy One of 
 Israel, thy Saviour." 
 
 Of my interviews with Sarah I have no long and interesting con- 
 versations to record. It is very rarely, if ever, that in cottage life one 
 meets with piety that is able to express its feelings in many words. 
 For the most part, our intercourse consisted of quiet conversations, in 
 which I bore, indeed, the principal part, but for which she supplied the 
 matter by words, few but full of feeling. Especially, she would fre- 
 quently assure me of her happiness in leaving all to her Heavenly 
 Father, and her dark eyes would then light up with a more than earthly 
 radiance. 
 
 Once we were talking of Grasmere, her native place, when, turning 
 her head quickly towards me, she said, " Did you know- Mr. Words- 
 worth, sir ? " I told her that I had only seen him two or three times, 
 but had never spoken to him, and was not acquainted with him. " I 
 knew him very well, sir," she added ; " he was a very nice and kind old 
 gentleman, with white hair, and he used to pat me on the head. He 
 wrote a poem about me." " Indeed," said I ; " and what is the poem 
 called .'' " " It is called ' The Westmorland Girl,' " she replied, " and it 
 was about my getting a lamb out of a beck." And, as she spoke, her 
 pale, delicate features lighted up with enthusiasm at the remembrance. 
 
 There had been a heavy fall of rain, she said ; the streams were 
 greatly swollen. A distressed and forsaken lamb had been left on one 
 side of this dividing torrent by its mother, which had strayed away 
 across it. Trying to follow, it had fallen in^ and immediately the 
 hungry waves whirled the poor creature away, and tumbling it over 
 loose stones, and tossing it from bank to bank, would soon have carried 
 it, drowned, into the lake had not little Sarah Mackereth, then only nine 
 years old, plunged boldly in and caught the poor lamb in her little 
 arms. " We were rolled over and over," said she (suiting the action 
 
Wordsworth's " Westmorland Girl." 43 
 
 to the word by making her arms to revolve rapidly round each other) ; 
 " but I got it safely out at last." I asked her if she was not frightened 
 and hurt ; but she laughed in her quiet, cheerful way, and said, " Not 
 at all ; and my clothes were soon dry again." 
 
 The -poem in which Wordsworth commemorated this act is not so 
 well known as many others of the poet's works. It was one of his 
 latest productions, when many collected editions of his works had 
 already been published, and is found in Moxon's Popular Edition 
 
 (1869):— A /,• / // 
 
 r • " Let who will delight in fable, T-HZ W^Ai--^-^'^^iyr<.-<»e^^^d f 6^ 
 
 I shall tell you truth. A lamb 
 Leapt from this steep bank to follow 
 'Cross the brook its thoughtless dam. 
 
 " Far and wide, on hill and valley, 
 Rain had fallen, unceasing rain. 
 And the bleating mother's young one 
 Struggled with the flood in vain : 
 
 " But, as chanced, a cottage maiden 
 (Ten years scarcely had she told) 
 Seeing, plunged into the torrent, 
 
 Clasped the lamb and kept her hold. 
 
 " Whirled adown the rocky channel, 
 Sinking, rising, on they go, 
 Peace and rest, as seems, before them 
 Only in the lake below. 
 
 " Oh ! it was a frightful current 
 
 Whose fierce wrath the girl had braved ; . 
 
 Clap your hands with joy, my hearers, 
 Shout in triumph ; both are saved." 
 
 A few days ago I visited the scene of this courageous deed. The 
 Mackereths' cottage is called the Wyke Cottage ; it stands on the north 
 side of the road that leads from Grasmere to Langdale, about half a 
 mile from the church. It is a very small, stone-built cottage, with one 
 of those round chimneys which form such a pretty feature of the houses 
 in that district. A tall yew- and a Scotch fir rise very high above it. 
 
44 Holiday Studies. 
 
 Behind rise the shining steeps of Silver How, from which, down a rocky 
 fell, rich in underwood and ferns and flowers, rushes the noisy and 
 impetuous torrent which had so nearly carried into the lake our little 
 Westmorland maiden. The stream is not wide, but, when full, it is 
 deep, and full of rugged boulders. Here dwelt the Mackereths — parish 
 clerks for some generations ; but, at an earlier period, one or more of 
 them were " priests." This is the name still given to the clergyman in 
 these parts by most of the old people ; it is doubtless a relic of pre- 
 Reformation times. In those earlier days, in the Lake district, when a 
 vacancy fell in a living, a successor was not fetched from some unknown 
 distance ; some grave and clerkly man from the same dale would serve 
 their turn, who laboured both as minister and schoolmaster, perhaps all 
 in one building — the parish church. Such was the origin of Robert 
 Walker, so well known as " Wonderful Walker,"* for sixty years minister 
 of Seathwaite Chapel and parish schoolmaster, and very frequently a 
 day-labourer, working for hire for his own parishioners. He was born 
 in the little cottage-farm of Undercrag, in his own Seathwaite, which is 
 the next parish to the north of this parish of Broughton-in-Furness. 
 It has been remarked to me, by those who have long known them, that 
 there has always been a certain refinement, a superior nature, that has 
 distinguished the members of the Mackereth family. They may be 
 truly called " the gentry of the soil " — noble examples of simple and 
 pure native excellence, owing little to education, little to intercourse 
 with those who move in the higher ranks of life. They retain the rustic 
 simplicity, they practise the untutored and artless courtesy which we 
 love to imagine, but do not often discover, in the English peasant life. 
 
 Little Sarah early lost her mother. To her worthy father she was 
 most devoted. Her love for him was deep and intense. No labour was 
 too great to lighten her dear father's toils, or relieve him from attend- 
 ance upon such of his duties as she was able to fulfil. Thus, many a 
 time she tolled the church bell for her father ; and, at the request of an 
 aged gentleman of Grasmere, after his death she tolled the passing bell 
 every day for him until his body was committed to the grave. This 
 was a service in excess of what he had asked, for he had onl}^ requested 
 * See the next paper, "Wordsworth and the Duddon." 
 
Wordsworth's ''Westmorland Girl." 45 
 
 her to toll the bell on the day of his funeral ; but her zeal led her to 
 do more. This circumstance is referred to in the second part of 
 the poem. 
 
 One other occurrence is mentioned. So great was her feeling for all 
 living creatures, that she would never endure to see them made to suffer 
 unnecessarily. A gentleman was fishing in Grasmere Lake. Our little 
 maiden stood by watching or helping. He does not seem to have 
 gained her confidence, for, having caught a large pike, and cruelly 
 thrusting a stick repeatedly down its throat with a wicked pleasure in 
 its writhing and agony, the brave little creature, with indignation kind- 
 ling in her lovely countenance, snatched it from him, and flung it far 
 away into the lake, fearless of his anger, careless of the consequences. 
 
 These little traits of character, the historical accuracy of which I 
 vouch for on the authority of those who knew and loved well the bard 
 and his " little lamb-deliverer," are embodied in the second part of the 
 poem, of which the following are the concluding verses : — 
 
 " Listen yet awhile ; — with patience 
 Hear the homely truths I tell ; 
 She in Grasmere's old church steeple 
 Tolled this day the passing bell. 
 
 " Yes, the wild girl of the mountains 
 To their echoes gave the sound. 
 Notice punctual as the minute, 
 Warning solemn and profound. 
 
 " She, fulfiUing her sire's office, 
 
 Rang alone the far-heard knell — 
 Tribute, by her hand, in sorrow, 
 Paid to one who loved her well. 
 
 "When his spirit was departed. 
 On that service she went forth ; 
 Nor will fail the like to render 
 When his corse is laid in earth. 
 
 "What then wants the child to temper 
 In her breast unruly fire. 
 To control the froward impulse, 
 And restrain the vague desire? 
 
4^ Holiday Studies. 
 
 " Early a pious training, 
 
 And a steadfast outward power, 
 Would supplant the weeds, and cherish 
 In their stead each opening flower. 
 
 " Thus the fearless lamb-deliverer, 
 
 Woman -grown, meek-hearted, sage, 
 May become a blest example 
 For her sex of every age. 
 
 " Watchful as a wheeling eagle, 
 Constant as a soaring lark, 
 Should the country need a heroine, 
 She might prove our Maid of Arc. 
 
 " Leave that thought ; and here be uttered 
 Prayer that grace Divine may raise 
 Her humane, courageous spirit 
 Up to heaven, through peaceful ways." 
 
 In Nathaniel Hawthorne's " English Note-Book " we find that he 
 met at Grasmere Church with one of the Mackereths, and heard about 
 the poem without being able to call the circumstances of it to mind. I 
 do not doubt that if he had known more about it, we should have some 
 entertaining gossip on the subject. The following is his account in 
 
 1855 :- 
 
 " I have been again to see Wordsworth's grave, and, finding the 
 door of the church open, we went in. A woman and little girl were 
 sweeping at the farther end, and the woman came towards us out of the 
 cloud of dust which she had raised. . . . She was a very intelligent- 
 looking person, not of the usual English ruddiness, but rather thin and 
 somewhat pale, though bright of aspect. Her way of talking was very 
 agreeable. She inquired if we wished to see Wordsworth's monument, 
 and at once showed it to us — a slab of white marble fixed against the 
 upper end of the centre row of stone arches, with a pretty long inscrip- 
 tion, and a profile bust, in bas-relief, of his aged countenance. . . . 
 The woman said that she had known him very well, and that he had 
 made some verses on a sister of hers. She repeated the first lines — 
 something about a lamb — but neither S nor I remembered them." 
 
 I read the poem to her and her husband one calm summer evening. 
 
Words IVOR Ill's ''Westmorland Girl" 47 
 
 He had never heard it ; she, I think, not more than once. Her placid 
 gaze rested on her husband's countenance, to see how it would affect 
 him ; for she loved him faithfully. He was " not one of those rough, 
 wicked men," she once said to me. 
 
 I feel the more pleasure in bringing this touching poem before 
 a wider circle of thoughtful readers, because it furnishes, as T think, 
 an illustration of a fact grateful to the Christian— that Wordsworth, 
 in the latter years of his calm, happy, and peaceful life, enjoyed more 
 deeply than in early and middle life the blessedness and peace of a 
 closer walk with God. Witness, for instance, the solemn stillness and 
 the deep faith in all Divine things that breathes through the " Evening 
 Voluntaries." Not that at any time his faith and confidence were 
 in any danger of becoming loosed from their moorings, but that in him 
 peculiarly the mellowing flow of years brought with it a surer trust, 
 a deeper realisation of the blessedness of a soul at peace with God, 
 through the Redeemer's merits ; so that his peaceful old age was 
 like to what we sometimes witness in the lovely evenings which shed 
 such a richness of glory over his beloved vales — a sunset without 
 a cloud. 
 
 Such, too, was Sarah Davies's departure. The difference between 
 her entrance upon a better world and his consisted in nothing more 
 than the mere power of expression. In her, no less than in the poet, 
 there was patience under suffering, mingled with joy at the prospect 
 of release from the flesh and heaven opening. Both knew and felt 
 equally the noble declaration of faith and immortality : " When Thou 
 hadst overcome the sharpness of death. Thou didst open the kingdom 
 of heaven to all believers." But poor Sarah could only look her 
 firm belief with her eyes, and express it in words few and simple, 
 though strong with all the fulness of her heart. 
 
 Before me hangs still the set of hymns for the sick and suffer- 
 ing which I had hung by her bedside, and every day the hymn for 
 that day was placed before her. It lies open at xxix., and she died 
 on the 1st September. She read them, therefore, up to the last day 
 that she was able. Great comfort did she receive from these well- 
 chosen hymns. 
 
48 Holiday Studies. 
 
 She received at my hands the Holy Communion, with her hus- 
 band. There was in her countenance a sweet and holy calm that 
 recalled none of her early animation. It was the rich, deep glow 
 of heavenly light that kindles in the face of the true believer, and 
 marks unmistakably to the minister of God that here is one sealed 
 for heaven, saved and redeemed from the power of the grave. What 
 proved to be my last interview with this dear child of God, I did 
 not think would be my last. Some clerical business took me to 
 Carlisle, and in my absence she passed gently away — the gentle, 
 loving spirit returned to Him that gave it. 
 
 On her last day upon earth her sister entered the room. Sarah 
 said, "Did Davies tell you?" "Tell me what?" "Did he really 
 not tell you? It is very strange. Well, I have seen angels. They 
 came to fetch me. I saw them plainly ; I could not be mistaken." 
 Blessed spirit of the departed, thou knowest now whether it were 
 indeed a vision from heaven ! 
 
 Sarah sleeps in the quiet churchyard of Broughton-in-Furness. 
 The mountains of her native land look down from afar upon her 
 resting-place ; the distant murmur of Duddon may often be heard 
 in deeper contrast to the stillness of the scene. The prayer of the 
 Christian poet has been heard. His spirit seemed to her minister 
 to mingle with his own as he bent over her fair but fading counten- 
 ance in fervent prayer and thanksgiving. The wayward but brave 
 and loving girl had grown to womanhood. The country had not 
 called to her for aid, or she would not have been wanting at its 
 call. No Joan of Arc was she, but one whom it was always a joy 
 and a comfort to see — a crown to her husband, the glory of her 
 children. " Her children shall arise and call her blessed ; her hus- 
 band also, and he praiseth her." 
 
 Tourists will flock stillto Grasmere to stay, or to pass that fairest 
 gem of English scenery, and be delighted, as every one must be who 
 has the faintest touch of a feeling of love and admiration for the 
 lovely creation of God ; and many, starting in their walk, with elastic 
 tread and chest expanding with the conscious glow of strength and 
 spirits, for Eltervvatcr, Langdale, or Coniston, will leave behind that 
 
IVoj?dsivoi?tn's ''Westmorland Girl." 49 
 
 humblest little cottage sheltered at the foot of Silver How ; and will 
 they not now, perhaps, bestow a passing thought on the child that dwelt 
 in that lowly cot, whose grace and courage won for her a prouder and 
 more lasting distinction far than could have been conferred by medals 
 and ribands ? After all, there is nothing like a little human interest 
 to impart an added charm to natural scenery. You pass through 
 Grasmere, Rydal, Ambleside, and you speak to none but landlords and 
 landladies, waiters and chambermaids, and you lose the first element 
 that brings you akin to the place and attaches you to it lastingly. 
 It is not in these sweet vales as in the islands of the south, where 
 the " spicy breezes blow," — ■ 
 
 " Where every prospect pleases, 
 And only man is vile." 
 
 Although our dalespeople may not now be distinguished by all the 
 primitive simplicity in which the first educated and polished settlers 
 found them some seventy years ago, yet there is still, for all who love 
 quiet and simple worth, abundance of the true metal still to reward him 
 who seeks for it in the spirit of " charity out of a pure heart." 
 
 1872. 
 
 D 
 
Morbswortb anb tbe Dubbon* 
 
Wordsworth and the Duddon. 
 
 Duddon Sonnets— A Two Days' solitary Visit to the Duddon Valley in September, 1882— 
 Seathwaite Tarn— Birks Brigg and Gowdrel Dub— Glittering Transparency of the Water— 
 Cockley Beck- Division of the Valley— Hardknot and Wrynose— Wild Deer— Three Shire 
 Stones— Source of the Duddon — Dioptrics of a running Brook— Varieties of Effects in a 
 Mountainous Country— Coming down to the Pastures and the Farms— Seathwaite Church 
 —Rev. Robert Walker "The Wonderful"— Original Information— Stepping-Stones— 
 Wallabarrow Crag— The Red Felsite Dike— Ulpha Kirk— Dunnerdale Fells— Duddon 
 Woods — Duddon Hall — Rowfold Bridge — Flowering Plants and Ferns — Buckbarrow 
 Volcanic Crags— If England were subject to Volcanic Eruptions? — Glacier Polished 
 Rocks — A Day with Ruskin at the Weathered Rocks of Goat's Water— Ruskin's Con- 
 fession of Faith in Christianity in " Praeterita "—Duddon Bridge and Duddon Sands. 
 
 EATED beside a rugged, shattered, and confused mass of 
 rock crowning the high ridge that overlooks Birks Farm 
 and Birks Bridge, the rich hues of advancing autumn 
 throwing golden reflections upon the green patches of 
 verdure that spread a glory over fell and valley, I here command 
 a first view of the glowing scenery of the " Duddon Sonnets," 
 consecrated by the genius of Wordsworth, one of the three or four truly 
 great poets to whom England has given birth. 
 
 Here I have chosen to commence my lonely contemplative visit to 
 the higher Duddon Valley, descending into it exactly opposite the point 
 from which Wordsworth himself recommended an entrance into the 
 valley as the loveliest of all, at the descent from Seathwaite Tarn. 
 
 From my elevated vantage-ground, as I look north, the eye rests on 
 the dreary wastes of Wrynose, which the dalespeople call Wreyness, 
 extending far away towards the distant source of the Duddon. To my 
 left the golden browns and the yet unfaded greens mingle harmoniously 
 upon the nearer fell-side, and there above comes tumbling down in a 
 silvery broken stream of flashing light the beck that issues from Sea- 
 thwaite Tarn with a roar which I can hear at a distance of half a mile ; 
 while Grey Friars, the Old Man, the Dow Crags, and Walna Scar stretch 
 in broken continuity from the north-east to the south. At my left is 
 
1 
 
 54 Holiday Studies. 
 
 the scarped and craggy ridge of Harter Fell, roughly terraced with 
 rugged slopes broken with patches of brightest verdure, on which those 
 active mountaineers, the Herdwick sheep, are quietly browsing. 
 
 Below, the sweet green valley lies soberly gay with the soft, subdued 
 shining of a sun that struggles to get free from the clouds of silvery 
 grey, and there winds, with many a devious reach, the vocal stream of 
 Duddon. Just below lies the peaceful farm called Birks, where I know 
 I shall presently receive a kindly welcome before I visit the far-famed 
 Birks Brigg and Gowdrel Dub, which, being very near, I propose, 
 though down stream, to visit at the same time with Birks Brigg before I 
 proceed farther north. And now 
 
 " I seek the birthplace of a native stream — 
 All hail, ye mountains ! hail, thou morning light ! 
 Better to breathe at large on this clear height 
 Than toil in heedless sleep from dream to dream : 
 Pure flow the verse, pure, vigorous, free, and bright, 
 For Duddon, long-loved Duddon, is my theme ! " 
 
 From the plain little old farmhouse you descend through green 
 pastures to the swam.p, when suddenly, as you approach the river, which 
 has been coming down the dale so far leisurely enough, and in a 
 commonplace way, you become aware of a sudden change. From sedgy 
 banks varied with the aromatic bog-myrtle, the golden bog-asphodel, 
 now out of flower, the rosy red-rattle, and the milk-white green-veined 
 parnassia, the river plunges in haste among wave-washed rocks and 
 boulders, scooped into fantastic shapes, whitened with the weather and 
 the water, then passes on for a few yards through a deep, dark chasm 
 between perpendicular rocks, cleft with gloomy fissures, deeper and 
 deeper, narrower and more narrow, not, at any rate to-day, without 
 hurry to a black pit some twenty feet deep, spanned aloft by one narrow 
 arch ; and here an exclamation of surprise spontaneously bursts forth 
 even from a solitary wanderer as he gazes down with astonishment into 
 the intense transparency of the emerald green of that pellucid pool, 
 where now the water lags lazily along, only indicating the sluggishness 
 of its movement by the gentle wafting of small discs of white foam 
 brought from the fall close by. Whence this dazzling and most 
 
Wordsworth and the Duddon. 55 
 
 marvellous glassy greenness, reminding one of the blue beryl-like 
 transparency of the deep mill-pond on the chalk in Arundel Park? 
 The polished slabs of rock that line the bottom, and would no doubt 
 be white if laid on the land, lie below as green as the emerald cushions 
 of moss that make gay the trickling rocks above. Perhaps none can 
 accurately explain the physical cause. 
 
 This is Wordsworth's Faery chasm : — ' ■ 
 
 "Abodes of naiads, calm abysses pure, 
 
 Bright liquid mansions, fashioned to endure 
 f When the broad oak drops, a leafless skeleton, 
 
 And the solidities of mortal pride, 
 . . ' '■: ' Palace and tower, are crumbled into dust ! " 
 
 Peering rather perilously over the edge, the deafening roar of the 
 torrent causing an involuntary tremoj, I see the lofty crags riven with 
 deep, dark fissures, where neither moss nor humblest fern can grow ; 
 buttress succeeding buttress, some like the fair white flying buttresses of 
 Gloucester Cathedral, all curved and hollowed out by the foaming 
 torrents into a hundred weird, fantastic shapes. Here one starts at the 
 unexpected sight of a colossal foot and leg of stone, from the knee 
 downwards, dipping suspended in the stream, formed by the wearing 
 away of the rock of volcanic ash. The resemblance is wonderful, 
 making it an object of curiosity to both dalesfolk and visitors. 
 
 Charming contrast ! Through the arch I see the clear, transparent, 
 glassy pool kissed by the nodding alders, and kindled into life by the 
 fiery red of a low mountain-ash in all her autumn bravery. 
 
 There are very strange freaks of rockwork down this part of Duddon. 
 Here is a huge and exactly square column of stone forty feet high, 
 leaning unattached against the ferny bank, ten feet of it rising above 
 the ground. It is cleft straight halfway down the middle with a clean 
 fissure, with corresponding sides, as if the fracture had been a sudden 
 one. The opposite bank is grand with vertical rocks richly clothed 
 with verdure. But the lover of Nature who wants to hunt out these 
 hidden beauties must leave the valley road and roam and climb at 
 liberty. 
 
 A very little way farther down the stream, just opposite Troutal, is 
 
$6 Holiday Studies. 
 
 Gowdrel Dub. Dub means a silent pool beloved of silvery salmon, but 
 Gowdrel is not, as some suppose, the golden rill, for nowhere in Furness 
 is a stream of water ever called a rill, but a beck, the same as the 
 German bach. Gowdrel is the name of the rough pasture that lies 
 before it. Down comes hither the stripling Duddon in a tremendous 
 hurry through his deep worn channel, as though he thought it was high 
 time to be moving on after sleeping so long in Birks Dub ; and so he 
 sweeps on by vast square blocks that have fallen from the opposite cliff, 
 where you may easily see the corresponding cavities, past rugged boulders 
 and nodding sedges, past rushy banks and masses of ash, and dwarf oak, 
 and birch, when suddenly down he comes again with a heavy fall, " like 
 a broken purpose," into a dark and deeply ramparted pool, where at 
 once he goes to sleep, the water apparently ceasing to move, the soft, 
 green, liquid transparency reappearing, as of late, in the limpid waters, 
 and the bottom lined with smooth and polished rocks of lucid green, 
 like the emerald banks. For a sweet little bit of gemlike mountain 
 scenery, Gowdrel Dub is unsurpassable. See it if you can alone, or if 
 with a friend, agree to leave behind all talk of business and the noisy, 
 whirling world. Such converse here is out of place and against the 
 grain. Here are sweet sprigs of purple heather at my feet that have 
 rejoiced no eyes but those of a wandering vicar. 
 
 " Sole listener, Duddon ! to the breeze that played 
 With thy dear voice, I caught the fitful sound 
 Wafted o'er sullen moss and craggy mound, — 
 Unfruitful solitudes, that seemed to upbraid 
 The sun in heaven ! — but now, to form a shade 
 For Thee, green alders have together wound 
 Their foliage ; ashes flung their arms around ; 
 And birch-trees risen in silver colonnade." 
 
 So the heather sprigs have bloomed for me. May they not have 
 bloomed in vain ! Some days we live that do the work of years ; some 
 hours there are that tinge a life. It is not given to every one to reap 
 life-long enjoyment from the mere sight of a field of daffodils dancing in 
 the sunlight ; but what is Wordsworth's moral ^ 
 
 *' For oft when on my couch I lie 
 In vacant or in pensive mood, 
 
Wordsworth and the Duddon. 57 
 
 They flash upon that inward eye 
 Which is the bliss of solitude, 
 And then my heart with pleasure fills, 
 And dances with the daffodils." 
 
 This September sky supplies the most perfect Hght for the dale. 
 The atmosphere seems refined into a crystalline clearness and purity ; 
 the colouring is richer, tenderer, and more sweetly blended and 
 harmonised. The bright green pastures are softly dappled over with 
 shadows dropped from gently moving clouds ; shadows that lie long in 
 spots fixed and unmoved, with steady beams of quiet pleasant sunshine 
 interposed. The glancing torrents scaur the mountain sides with streaks 
 of glistening sheen. Here the isolated rock called Castle How looms 
 dark and frowning, there the sweet pastures smile bright with the 
 autumn after-grass ; and amidst them all glide the " trotting brooks " 
 and chattering becks, and the babbling and brawling companion of 
 my walk, the young Duddon ever running by my side and ever telling 
 me of his busily-idle, never-ending life, and flashing merrily back the 
 rays of sunlight that so liberally steep his waves in gems of purest 
 light. Wordsworth observes that the influence of this season in 
 the dale of the Duddon is, that in it "the imagination, by the 
 aid of natural scenery, is carried into recesses of feeling otherwise 
 unattainable." 
 
 Farther up the valley, opposite Dalehead, and below Black Hall, are 
 stepping-stones ; but these are not the poet's far-famed stepping-stones ; 
 we shall cross these much lower down, below Seathwaite. 
 
 But here is Cockley Beck at last, Lancashire's Ultima Thulc, the 
 last vestige of human habitation for a very long way to come ; for here 
 the dale divides, and the lonely farm stands at the meeting of three 
 mountain roads. 
 
 Here I have said the road divides right and left. The rough road 
 
 to the left will take you over Hardknot Pass into verdant smiling 
 
 Eskdale. " Hardknot Castle," a shapeless and barely distinguishable 
 
 ruin, may be discerned by a careful eye crowning the height on the 
 
 right hand. 
 
 " Fallen, and diffused into a shapeless heap, 
 Or quietly self-buried in earth's mould, 
 
58 Holiday Studies. 
 
 Is that embattled House, whose massy keep 
 
 flung from yon chff a shadow large and cold. 
 
 There dwelt the gay, the beautiful, the bold. 
 
 Till mighty lamentations, like the sweep 
 
 Of winds — though winds were silent — struck a deep 
 
 And lasting terror through that ancient Hold. 
 
 Its line of warriors fled ; — they shrunk when tried 
 
 By ghostly power ; — but Time's unsparing hand 
 
 Hath plucked such foes, like weeds, from out the land ; 
 
 And now, if men with men in peace abide, 
 
 All other strength the weakest may withstand, 
 
 All worse assaults may safely be defied." 
 
 Here, at Cockley Beck, I shall find hospitable quarters for the night, 
 with the perfection of homely rustic simplicity ; and while my simple 
 supper is preparing, I stroll in the softened light of the declining sun 
 up the dreary, treeless valley whence the Duddon, " child of the clouds," 
 derives its birth. 
 
 " To chant thy birth, thou hast 
 
 No meaner poet than the whistling blast. 
 
 And Desolation is thy patron saint ! 
 
 She guards thee, ruthless power ! who would not spare 
 ' Those mighty forests, once the bison's screen. 
 
 Where stalked the huge deer to his shaggy lair 
 
 Through paths and alleys roofed with darkest green, 
 
 Thousands of years before the silent air 
 
 Was pierced by whizzing shaft of hunter keen ! " 
 
 Grandly antlered heads of these noble extinct animals are often 
 found in the sands of the estuary, sometimes in quantities together. On 
 Bleansley Bank, near Broughton, are ancient square enclosures, now 
 almost levelled with the turf, which are generally believed to have been 
 used for driving the red deer into. There are yet survivors of the 
 primitive red deer in the lonely wilds of Martindale ; and up to the last 
 century they still herded in Eskdale and Wastdale. One may regret 
 the disappearance of these fine animals on sentimental grounds ; but 
 I have been told by old farmers of the destruction they worked in 
 rick-yards and among the young corn, so that it was impossible to 
 tolerate them any longer. An old lady has told me how, when she 
 was a girl in Martindale, she was employed in keeping off the fierce red 
 deer from robbing the sheep of their winter fodder. 
 
IV0J?DSIV0I?TH AND THE DuDDON. 59 
 
 Duddon springs up' above there on Wrynose Gap in a swampy 
 tableland, the watershed between the cheerful, happy-looking valley of 
 Langdale and the vale of Duddon, not many yards intervening between 
 the sources of the Brathay and of our Duddon. The famous Three 
 Shire Stones preside at the birth of both, where without any great ex- 
 tension of the person one may lie at the same moment in the three 
 counties of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland. For if the 
 Duddon exactly .divides Cumberland from Lancashire, the sod next 
 beyond the source must be in Westmoreland. 
 
 There amid cloud and storm, and desolation vast and drear, the 
 infant Duddon begins his course with slow uncertain step. Many 
 streams tumbling down the amphitheatre of dark hillsides join the 
 main current which, when it reaches the bottom of the treeless waste of 
 Wrynose Bottom, is already a rapid, clamorous stream commencing its 
 endless war of stones and waters. 
 
 " No check, no stay this streamlet fears, 
 How merrily it goes ! 
 'Twill murmur on a thousand years, 
 And flow as now it flows." 
 
 The morning after breaks with a pure and pearly light, and I take a 
 kindly farewell of my pleasant entertainers. How we glory while we 
 gaze ! Glory in all creation, bountiful, infinitely beautiful, teeming with 
 objects sublime and majestic or minutely lovely, which create thoughts 
 too deep for utterance. 
 
 Seeing is happiness without the labour of reflection ; and we feel 
 that we are commencing 
 
 " One of those heavenly days that cannot die." 
 
 What marvellous and incredible effects are produced by the play 
 and combination of the changeful atmospheric light upon running 
 waters ! Here runneth a brook, only a yard wide, flowing with great 
 rapidity after last night's copious rain.* I am drawn aside to gaze at 
 the liquid lapse of shining waters by the strange spectacle of an intense 
 and brilliant opal light within of mingling prismatic and iridescent hues 
 
 * For the rain is very plentiful here, over loo inches in a year. 
 
6o Holiday Studies. 
 
 of violet and purple, azure blue and malachite-greens, with amber yellow, 
 harmoniously blended with shining russet browns. I stop to ascertain 
 what can be the cause of this new phenomenon. What can compose 
 the streamlet's bed that rolls with hues so strange and fairy-like ? And 
 I see with surprise merely the long and waving tresses of bedded water- 
 grass and pond-weed, washed into graceful motion by the impetuous 
 limpid stream, whose light is blended with reflections from the flower- 
 spangled bank, from a low green mossy wall, and from a sky struggling 
 between sunshine and cloud. These alone, with dioptric laws of which 
 no account can be rendered, combine to produce an unusual metallic 
 lustre such as I never saw before, except faintly imitated in imaginative 
 pictures of fairy-land, nor ever expect to see again. It is "that light 
 that never shone o'er land or sea." 
 
 Perhaps the most remarkable advantage, in an arcistic point of view, 
 which we possess in the Lake district, is the ever-shifting and change- 
 ful character of the scenery. We have the same physical features 
 continually before our eyes under perpetually varying effects of light 
 and shadow, running through all imaginable shades that are possible 
 in Nature, from bright celestial blue, and green like that of emeralds, to 
 purple bathed in rose, and ending for a while in the darkest hues. I 
 have seen Black Combe mantled in snow on a bright winter's morning 
 at sunrise, royally clothed in alpine hues of rose and pink and violet and 
 gold, shining with the brilliancy of the diamond. From Helvellyn I 
 have seen, after a rainy morning, Ullswater lying mapped below of an 
 ultramarine of incredible brilliancy, and all the rolling ocean of moun- 
 tains, valleys, and plains beyond bathed in crystalline cerulean blue ; 
 but encompassed in a frame of vast black precipices which seemed to 
 be steeped in night, while a heavenly light smiled upon all the rest of 
 the scene. 
 
 Here each grey and slate-roofed humble tenement is half-hidden in 
 its setting of sycamore-trees, and is encompassed by its little farm of 
 twelve to twenty acres of green pasture ; and you long to bid good 
 morning to the quiet and honest folk that dwell in them ; and they are 
 glad if you do, and will talk with you as long as you like, for they see 
 very few strangers passing up and down this dale. Then comes the 
 
 1 
 
Wordsworth and the Dud don. 6i 
 
 wild fell again ; then another ancient cottage, but perhaps whitewashed 
 this time, till you come to the " open prospect," where they lie scattered 
 over a wider tract. About a mile from Seathwaite Church, 
 
 " Hail to the Fields — with dwelHngs sprinkled o'er, 
 And one small hamlet, under a green hill 
 Clustering, with barn and byre, and spouting mill ! 
 A glance suffices." 
 
 Here the narrow dale opens out, and the rural valley spreads before 
 us, green and charming. The farms, instead of being separated by wild 
 bits of fell land, are only divided from each other by dimpling becks 
 and moss-grown fences.'^ Behind Tongue House you see a mountain- 
 path climbing to Seathwaite Tarn, a lonely sheet of water lying 1,210 
 feet high, yet bosomed deep beneath Grey Friar and the Old Man, with 
 their outlying buttresses. It is a favourite spot for a picnic for the 
 neighbouring gentry and their friends. Fifty will sometimes gather 
 here for a merry day. The tarn is drawn, the trout and char come 
 in by hundreds, and are cooked on the spot in some fissure of the rocks, 
 and never any sauce is asked for but the keen appetite engendered by 
 the ozone in the mountain air. This elevated glen is full of interest to 
 the geologist, with its moraines, its blocs perches, and its accumulations 
 of boulders, where the ice last melted after the glacial period. 
 
 It is the weathering of innumerable ages which has produced these 
 manifold fantastic forms of rock, and caused the downfall and the 
 mysterious distribution of vast detached blocks, which have lain for 
 centuries resting upon, or lying against, each other, the erratic boulders 
 weathering with age to a creamy whiteness. 
 
 But here are, a short way apart, two venerable grey cottages, each 
 nestling under its own steep rude crag. The first is Nettleslack, which 
 is deserted, though not entirely ruined ; the other is called Undercrag, 
 and is in excellent repair, and inhabited by Joseph Walker — some 
 
 * " Thy church and cottages of mountain stone, 
 Clustered like stars some few, but singly some. 
 And lurking dimly in their shy retreats, 
 Or glancing at each other's cheerful looks, 
 Like separated stars with clouds between." 
 
 (See Knight's " Wordsworth," p. 42.) 
 
62 Holiday Studies. 
 
 descendant (though I was told the kindred is "worn out") of Walker 
 " The Wonderful." In which of these cottages the venerable pastor of 
 Seathwaite was born is uncertain among the dalespeople, though the 
 guide-books and local histories pronounce without hesitation for 
 Undercrag. 
 
 As I pass the new chapel of Seathwaite (sprung up fresh and 
 beautiful from the very site of its revered predecessor), I bow my head 
 in deep and heartfelt respect for the venerable pastor, whose name is 
 still (1883) here held in honour and regard after the eighty years since 
 he exchanged his rustic wreath of honest fame for an incorruptible 
 crown of glory. 
 
 " Sacred Religion ! ' mother of form and fear,' 
 Dread arbitress of mutable respect, 
 New rites ordaining when the old are wrecked, 
 Or cease to please the fickle worshipper. 
 Mother of Love ! (that name best suits thee here) 
 Mother of Love ! In this deep vale, protect 
 Truth's holy lamp, pure source of bright effect, 
 Gifted to purge the vapouring atmosphere 
 That seeks to stifle it ; — as in those days 
 When this low Pile a Gospel Teacher knew, 
 Whose good works formed an endless retinue : 
 A Pastor such as Chaucer's verse portrays ; 
 Such as the heaven-taught skill of Herbert drew ; 
 And tender Goldsmith crowned with deathless praise." 
 
 I will not enter here into the almost legendary history of the Rev. 
 Robert Walker, surnamed " The Wonderful." It has been told so often, 
 in almost precisely the same words, that one is rather tired of hearing 
 the same unvarying tale. So much is certain, that he died in 1802, at 
 the age of ninety- three, having been sixty-seven years incumbent of 
 Seathwaite; and that his wife died in 1800, at the same advanced 
 age. That he was a man of great industry and thrift, and of unsullied 
 honesty and integrity, is also certain, or his successor would not have 
 made in the burial register the remarkable entry : " He was a man 
 singular for his temperance, industry, and integrity." 
 
 Before I began personally to inquire into the history of the Rev. 
 Robert Walker, I used to think that surely he must have owed much of 
 
■ Wordsworth and the Dud don. 63 
 
 his honourable fame to the fortunate circumstance that he had been 
 sung by the first and hitherto the greatest of the laureated poets of 
 England. But it is not so. I am at this moment fresh from a conversa- 
 tion with two venerable ladies (sisters), parishioners of Broughton^ 
 who were both baptised by him, and who spent the best portion of a 
 long life in Seathwaite, and they good-humouredly laugh to scorn 
 the idea of Mr. Walker being indebted for his fame to a mere poet. 
 " Oh, no, sir ; he was good in every way. We never heard any- 
 body say a word against him." ' ' 
 
 When he accepted the living of Seathwaite, ^^"5 a year, a cottage, 
 and an acre of glebe, with £4.0 by his excellent wife, were all he had to 
 live upon.^ The £^0 went to furnish the house, and yet when he died 
 he had to leave to his children the sum of ^^2,000, solely the fruits of 
 honest industry and frugality. There, dwelling amongst his people, he 
 lived and ministered both spiritually and temporally for the space of 
 sixty-seven years to his scattered parishioners, numbering about a 
 hundred and thirty souls, with invariable kindness and fidelity, with the 
 grave dignity becoming his position, and bearing a stainless and per- 
 fectly irreproachable character. He brought up a family of eleven 
 children, educated them wholly himself, with his child-parishioners, in 
 the humble little chapel, sitting within the altar- rails, and using the 
 communion-table as his desk. While he taught he was spinning at his 
 wheel. All his scholars (with one of whom, eighty years of age, I con- 
 versed twelve years ago) well remember his unvarying kindness and 
 good temper; and he produced such scholars in more than merely 
 
 * Those were days of distressing poverty for the country clergy in these northern parts, when 
 " ^5 ^ year, goose-grass, harden sark (a tough durable shirt), and whittlegate " were all that 
 many of the best of the clergy might look to for a living. " Whittlegate is to have two or three 
 weeks' victuals at each house, according to the ability of the inhabitants, which was settled amongst 
 them so that the parson should go his course as regular as the sun, and complete it as annually. 
 Few houses having more knives than one or two, the pastor was often obliged to buy his own 
 (though sometimes it was bought for him by the chapel wardens), and march from house to house 
 with his whittle seeking fresh pasturage ; as master of the herd he demanded the elbow-chair at 
 the table-head, which was often made of part of a hollow ash-tree, as may in these parts be 
 seen at this day. A person was thought a proud fellow in those days that was not content with- 
 out a fork to his knife ; he was reproved for it, and told that fingers were made before forks." — 
 " Survey of the Lakes," by James Clark, land surveyor, 1787. The same authority affirms that 
 some pastors were fortunate enough to obtain a suit of clothes annually from their compassionate 
 parishioners. 
 
64 Holiday Studies. 
 
 elementary subjects as have never been surpassed in Seathwaite since. 
 He made no charge for teaching, and only received occasionally grateful 
 and substantial acknowledgments from his parishioners. He did all 
 their legal work, such as making wills, drawing up leases, agreements, 
 and so forth. He performed all kinds of husbandry, including sheep- 
 shearing, cutting and drying peat ; and he excelled in all those employ- 
 ments, " for he was a wonderfully clever man," said my aged informants, 
 kindling with enthusiasm, and was always ready to help his neighbours 
 in their agricultural or their pastoral labours, receiving in recompense, 
 perhaps, a quarter of a sheep or a fleece in a year — perhaps less ; but 
 whatever he did and whatever he took, all was done pleasantly and 
 kindly. The " high-enders " from Troutal or Cockley Beck always 
 came to church whenever it was possible. In his days no one dreamed 
 of staying from church unless absolutely prevented ; and for all those 
 distant wayfarers he always had basins of broth prepared, and took no 
 pay — so my good old parishioners positively assure me ; although some, 
 with less claim to know, venture to affirm that he charged twopence a 
 head, which I am now sincerely glad to be able to deny. Those were 
 pre-teetotal days, and he lost neither dignity nor character by brewing 
 a pure light ale, which he gave in strict moderation for a small payment 
 to wayfarers passing up or down that long and lonely valley, on a stone 
 seat on the other side of the road before the Parsonage, adding bread 
 and cheese free of charge. 
 
 He was a rather short, stout man, of ruddy complexion (so I have 
 it from accurate information),* and he always wore a long blue gown 
 made of wool spun by his own hand, and confined round the waist with 
 a leathern strap. Wooden clogs he wore, as a matter of course. All 
 the large and accumulating store of family linen was of their own spin- 
 ning, the stray tufts of wool being constantly picked off the brambles 
 and hedges, wherever they found them, to be carded and spun. 
 
 It is remembered with a yet unfaded gratitude how he declined the 
 addition of the curacy of Ulpha to his own, on the ground that he could 
 not properly be schoolmaster and clergyman to both parishes at once, 
 
 * A great-nephew of his, a labourer, in my parish corresponds exactly with that description. 
 But most of his numerous descendants are of much higher station than labourers. 
 
Wordsworth and the Duddon. 65 
 
 which would have created a feehng of dissatisfaction among the mem- 
 bers of his beloved Seathwaite flock. 
 
 A little of romance enters into Canon Parkinson's account of him ; 
 but there is none in the grave and truthful description given with so 
 much grace by Wordsworth. It is remarkable that he was never 
 known as " the Wonderful " in his lifetime, nor for long after, until 
 Canon Parkinson seems to have invented or discovered the epithet. 
 There is no question whatever in my mind^ after gleaning and gathering 
 up with reverent care the fading memories of eighty years, that the love 
 and the respect that cling to the venerated name of Robert Walker, like 
 the sweet, long-clinging odour of sandal-wood, is wholly genuine, and is 
 entirely independent of that which, to the people of the dale, is the mere 
 adventitious aid either of poetry or of prose. 
 
 Just behind the Parsonage is an old and ruined carding-mill, which 
 was turned, when it worked, by the Seathwaite Tarnbeck, and not by 
 the Duddon ; so that, after all, the poet is right when he sings — 
 
 " Child of the clouds ! remote from every taint 
 Of sordid industry thy lot is cast." 
 
 But forgive the poet ! He did not mean to denounce all industry as 
 sordid ; only if it polluted his " long-loved Duddon " ! 
 
 Crossing a few meadows past the ruined carding-mill, we come at 
 last to Wordsworth's own " Stepping-Stones," under Wallabarrow Crag, 
 which many a visitor seeks in vain. 
 
 "The struggling rill insensibly is grown 
 Into a brook of loud and stately march, 
 Crossed ever and anon by plank or arch ; 
 And, for like use, lo ! what might seem a zone 
 Chosen for ornament — stone matched with stone 
 In studied symmetry, with interspace 
 For the clear waters to pursue their race 
 Without restraint. How swiftly have they flown, 
 Succeeding— still succeeding! Here the Child 
 Puts, when the high swoln Flood runs fierce and wild, 
 His budding courage to the proof ; and here 
 Declining Manhood learns to note the sly 
 And sure encroachments of infirmity — 
 Thinking how fast Time runs, life's end how near ! 
 
66 Holiday Studies. 
 
 Not so that Pair whose youthful spirits dance 
 With prompt emotion, urging them to pass ; 
 A sweet confusion checks the shepherd lass ; 
 Blushing she eyes the dizzy flood askance ; 
 To stop ashamed — too timid to advance ; 
 She ventures once again — another pause ! 
 His outstretched hand he tauntingly withdraws — 
 She sues for help with piteous utterance ! 
 Chidden, she chides again ; the thrilling touch 
 Both feel, when he renews the wished-for aid : 
 , Ah ! if their fluttering hearts should stir too much, 
 Should beat too strongly, both may be betrayed. 
 The frolic Loves, who from yon high rock see 
 The struggle, clap their wings for victory ! " 
 
 Thus the poet pictures childhood, youth, and age putting their 
 budding or their declining powers to the proof in crossing the rapid 
 river by that hazardous-looking path. Then a youth and a maiden are 
 imagined, the one with provoking playfulness, the other with timid 
 remonstrance^ venturing over this most welcome and delightful way of 
 not unpleasant peril. They certainly do require a sure foot and a 
 steady eye who venture across, and I felt glad when I had got safely 
 over. There are seventeen large and well-worn stepping-stones in the 
 stream, which runs swiftly with an ordinary depth of about eighteen 
 inches. 
 
 From Seathwaite to Ulpha let the active tourist by no means 
 travel ignominiously in a carriage by the high-road down the valley, but 
 continue his way past the stepping-stones under Wallabarrow, one of 
 the noblest isolated crags in Europe. There he is again rejoiiied 
 by his noisy, chattering companion, the Duddon, considerably broader, 
 but not one whit steadier, since we saw him last. This is a charming 
 rural walk amongst green pastures and wooded fells, with pleasant- 
 looking farm-houses at intervals. 
 
 Here we encounter an interesting geological curiosity. Skirting the 
 stream by a foot-path, we suddenly come upon a section of the river-bed 
 where, for some 150 yards, the water seems to run of a bloody red. In 
 spots up and down the valley, but all in one straight line, a hard rock of 
 a rich red crops out. One in particular, in an elevated position among 
 the woods, stands out conspicuously from a distance, ruddy amidst the 
 
 \ 
 
'lVo/,!DSir07?TH AND THE DUDDON. 6/ 
 
 green trees. It is a red felsite dike— a fissure of unknown depth, of 
 volcanic origin, running two miles from Wallabarrow to Troutal, and of 
 only a few yards in width. The river breaking off small fragments, and 
 rolling them down till they become smooth rounded pebbles, gives us 
 those pretty bits of colour we see enlivening the bed of the river at 
 Duddon Bridge, and which also supply the small red boulders that here 
 and there stud the pebble pavements of Broughton. 
 
 There is an exceedingly fine reach of the Duddon not far from 
 Ulpha Kirk, where the river runs swiftly between huge bare masses of 
 grey rock, boldly and deeply cleft, arched overhead by trees, and a 
 beautiful little waterfall plunging down from the bank into the river. 
 Here the Osmunda is found superbly tall, and the starry Parnassia 
 beautiful and abundant. The spot is a perfect gem of beauty, and well 
 worth a deviation. 
 
 Ulpha Church, called by the older people Oopha Kirk, here domi- 
 nates the vale — 
 
 " The Kirk of Ulpha to the pilgrim's eye 
 Is welcome as a star, that doth present 
 Its shining forehead through the peaceful rent 
 Of a black cloud diffused o'er half the sky." 
 
 Like too many other churches in the district, it was a mouldy, 
 earthy-smelling, squalid, and poverty-stricken rustic place of worship ; 
 but has, under a new and active young vicar, been thoroughly emptied 
 of all its grotesque and ungraceful contents, and refurnished with a 
 simple and refined taste ; and now it looks just as it should do — not 
 debased and dirty, but light and clean and neat in every part. The 
 exterior, with the exceptions of a new porch, belfry, and lych-gate, 
 remains exactly as Wordsworth saw it, when he used to meditate in the 
 vale, and stay at the Kirk-house, a name often given to the village inn 
 in these parts. The memory of the poet, as a poet, still survives among 
 the aged in the valley, which, as he was born in 17/0 and died in 1850, 
 may very well be. An old lady remembers well his kindness to 
 children, and how fond he was of patting them on the head. 
 
 Very restful and very charming to the eye and mind is the prospect 
 of this plain and homely little church looking down so peacefully upon 
 
68 Holiday Studies. 
 
 the rushing torrent far below, which, for want of anything better to do, 
 has been busy for ages scooping out the great blue-grey rocks in the 
 river-bed into a variety of the strangest forms. 
 
 On a stone of the bridge is rudely carved "Watch, 1749," cut, it 
 is said, during a severe visitation of pestilence, when cattle were not 
 allowed to pass out of one county into the next. 
 
 The Duddon Sonnets portray no woodland scenes below Ulpha 
 Bridge. But as there is some surpassingly beautiful scenery below that 
 point, we will yet continue our journey. From the bridge the main 
 road leads along the foot of the Dunnerdale Fells to Broughton and 
 to Millom. The scenery, though grand and noble, is bare and wild. 
 In the boggy streams running off these fells is found the great sundew 
 {Drosera anglicd), a rare plant. The valley is shut in between imposing 
 rocky crags of a pale grey colour on the Dunnerdale or Lancashire 
 side ; on the Cumberland side by the majestic woods of Duddon Hall 
 and the mountain called the Pen, and all the Black Combe range of 
 fells. It must have been with his customary bold defiance of the 
 realistic school that Wordsworth chose to speak of the Plain of 
 Dunnerdale, where of plane country there is none whatever ; and 
 being in my own parish, of course I know Dunnerdale and all its snug 
 farms intimately. The name is probably from Duddon dale, as the 
 island of Dunnerholme would be from Duddon holm. 
 
 We follow down the stream on the Cumberland side, as containing 
 the most picturesque objects. All this side of the Duddon abounds 
 in the loveliest woodland scenery, which here we survey in quieter 
 mood, " soothed by the unseen river's gentle roar." Vast moss-grown 
 fragments of rock or boulders are everywhere overshadowed by beech 
 and fir, by oak and ash ; the shady banks are graced with plumy beech- 
 fern, and the darker recesses carpeted with the oak-fern. Every bridge 
 down the river is darkly clad in rue-fern and in maidenhair spleenwort. 
 I know the Cystopteris fragilis growing just where it should do, on a 
 long narrow band of limestone; but not wanting it to be all carried 
 away, I refrain from particularising the spot ; and I must be equally 
 reticent about the Hyrnenophyllitm, which covers the boulders in some 
 moist places. The Impatiens is found in abundance in the moist and 
 
 
Wordsworth and the Duddon. 6g 
 
 shady woods. The lily of the valley abounds in a wood not to be 
 
 entered without leave. The globe-flowers make the banks gay. In 
 
 fact, there are few richer botanical fields than the lower Duddon. In 
 Sonnet VI. occurs the line — 
 
 " The trembling eyebright showed her sapphire blue." 
 
 Would it have spoiled good poetry to have read instead n:iore truly, 
 " the bright germander," as Tennyson says, "her blue germander eye"? 
 For the eyebright is Euphrasia officinalis, a pretty little white flower 
 with streaks of purple and yellow, and the germander speedwell is 
 certainly the blue flower here meant. 
 
 Arriving near to Duddon Hall, we cross the Loggan beck, a tribu- 
 tary of the Duddon, a stream which, taking its rise in black swamps and 
 spongy moors far up the fells, comes thundering down through cloven 
 rocks and sylvan ferny shades, till it reaches the woods, where, down a 
 bed filled with huge blue-grey boulders, it tears along round one 
 obstacle, and overleaps another with a scornful bound, here curling itself 
 snugly up in calm and silent pools, there rushing off again with a loud 
 roar to dash itself down a miniature precipice ; here lovingly encircled 
 by fondly drooping boughs, there throwing itself headlong down a clear 
 and skylit space, and finding at last a brief rest at Beckfoot among 
 cottages and homesteads such as an artist loves to paint. Then again 
 gathering fresh strength below the broken bridge, the Loggan leaps at a 
 bound into a deep and narrow chasm darkened with overhanging trees, 
 forming pictures of exquisite beauty. Then on again with a rush and a 
 vigorous roar, it adds its turmoil and its din to that of the now mighty 
 Duddon, growing fiercer and stronger by the union to force its way 
 through the deep and awful chasm at Hawes Bridge. 
 
 Immediately below the bridge is a deep glassy pool, Rawfold dub, 
 
 " whose depths surpass 
 
 In crystal clearness Dian's looking-glass ; " 
 
 where the silvery salmon loves to sleep, poised on equal fin. 
 
 Descending the lower reaches of the Duddon valley on the Cumber- 
 land side, while the silver flashing river rolls on its course to liquid 
 
70 Holiday Studies. 
 
 music, the eye Is conducted upward through the thick woods, rising 
 stage above stage, and the naked fells peering above them, and thence 
 to the sky-line, where the generally undulating or slightly irregular 
 contour of the rocks of volcanic ash is abruptly broken by a rude vast mass 
 of angular black crags, called Buckbarrow,"^" of which, at this distance, 
 you can hardly conjecture the composition. This rocky pile of split and 
 fissured crags, on a near examination, is found to be well worth the long 
 rough walk by which it is to be reached. Let me, then (just fresh from 
 an actual inspection), endeavour to describe the nature and appearance 
 of these singular crags. The way upon wheels or on horseback from 
 Broughton would be over Duddon Bridge, past Duddon ITall, rising on 
 the wild fell road to Bootle, until, at about six miles from Broughton, it 
 brings you within a mile and a half of the crags. Here the carriage 
 must be left (and there is no shelter for it for a long way), and the 
 horseman or pedestrian must make the best of his way over rising rough 
 and boggy ground to the height of about 900 feet above the sea-level, 
 where he reaches the strange gloomy pile of jagged and broken, shat- 
 tered and riven volcanic rocks, of which it seems natural to believe that 
 we are actually standing over the crater of a small extinct volcano. 
 It stands isolated on the ridge of the fell, a conspicuous object from 
 Broughton, covering a space of about three or four acres. The huge 
 rampart of black rock, blasted and tormented by the storms of a thou- 
 sand ages, bristles with vast blocks or pinnacles of a hard volcanic ash. 
 Awful for their dark immovable grandeur, they sternly rise bold and 
 bluff, here into pinnacled crags, there worn down by the innumerable 
 tempests which have beaten fiercely upon them from some period long 
 anterior to the Glacial Age down to the soft, though still transitional, 
 beauty of the age in which we now live. Grand is the belt of the ever- 
 lasting hills which encircle us in the far-distant horizon on the land side, 
 and the blue sea and the spreading yellow sands of Duddon to the west 
 and south. And yet this wondrous scene is one of the almost unknown 
 spots of the borderland of the Lake District. No guide-book but 
 Baddcley's refers to it. I dare say none have ever visited it but the 
 
 * This crag is also called Worm [i.e., Dragon) Crag. 
 
W0I?DSW0J?Tff AND THE DuDDON. ' /I 
 
 neighbouring shepherds, the sportsmen, and the officers of the Geo- 
 logical and other Ordnance Surveys. I believe it to be a once sub- 
 marine, and then upheaved, volcano. A hard volcanic ash, light grey 
 and spotted with white, composes it, and a lava harder still crops out 
 in a south-easterly direction. Some little conception of the geological 
 history of these fells is a sensible addition to the interest felt in their 
 exploration. Here, within the short spacf' of a mile, are visible 
 evidences both of the existence of the volcanic fires of past ages 
 and of glacial action. After the age of fire, succeeded, at a long 
 interval, the ice age, when the vale of Duddon was just as full 
 of ice, in all the sublime glory and majesty of glacier forms, as 
 is the Rhone Glacier now for twenty-five miles above the living 
 source of the infant Rhone. But how do we know this.? We 
 know it certainly by the evidence of the action of the grinding and 
 polishing of the ice-torrent, in its slow and ponderous passage down to 
 the icy sea below, upon the hardened volcanic ash through which the 
 Duddon at length has worn its way. Just above the Duddon woods 
 stretch out long spaces of hardened rock, polished to the smoothness 
 of glass by the passage of the ice-torrent, bearing down with it the 
 boulders and the gravels, which have planed the rugged surfaces of 
 rock to that polish which they retain down to this day. Just such 
 smooth surfaces of rock, but vastly greater, are well known on most 
 of the Swiss Alpine passes, especially, as I well remember, on the St. 
 Gothard, and the wonderful Hohle Platte on the Grimsel, over which 
 neither horse nor man could pass without the help of a roughened track. 
 Here we stand over that which might become the ruin of our 
 empire. Beneath our feet is a crust of solid matter, but how perilously 
 thin contrasted with the immeasurable depth and mass of fluid fire 
 on which it rests with a precarious endurance of which the unrcflective 
 mind has no conception ! The ground on which we think we stand so 
 securely to-day, once undoubtedly vomited torrents of liquid fire and 
 rivers of molten lava, now hardened into the volcanic ash we see 
 all around us. Suppose these subterranean dormant fires were to burst 
 out afresh, the land to become volcanic again, like that which borders 
 the Cordilleras, and earthquakes and the great eruptive forces again 
 
72 Holiday Studies. 
 
 to resume their awful sway — could England survive it ? Her magnificent 
 public and private edifices overthrown ; her great stone bridges levelled 
 with the ground ; the Forth cantilever Bridge, and the Britannia tubular 
 Bridge, not perhaps thrown down, but twisted out of the beautiful 
 straightness without which they would become worthless ; her closely 
 packed cities heaped in piles of ruin — all this might be the result of 
 two or three minutes' heaving and trembling of an earthquake in a 
 single night. The public records would be lost. Government would be 
 too seriously embarrassed to be able to hold together. England would 
 be bankrupt, and sink down to the rank of the weak and thinly 
 populated states of the lands of the volcano and the earthquake. 
 
 Though some eight miles distant, I cannot resist the temptation 
 here to refer to a spot always associated in my mind with the honoured 
 name of John Ruskin, my kind and dear friend during the time that he 
 enjoyed good health. There is a very wonderful example of rock- 
 weathering, situated by the dark and melancholy tarn called Goat's 
 Water, which lies in the deep and rock-encompassed hollow between 
 the Dow Crags and the Old Man, by whose side rise, gaunt and weird, 
 some strange rocks, furrowed and scored and corrugated all over, 
 exactly as the sea-sands are ripple-marked after the tide has left them. 
 I first drew to it the attention of some officers of the Geological Ord- 
 nance Survey who happened, fortunately, to be then working on the 
 spot, and they have duly recorded the phenomenon in their observa- 
 tions. Soon after, Mr. Ruskin and I made this the object of a summer 
 day's excursion from Brantwood — a day not to be forgotten — and a 
 mountain walk, in which I satisfied at least myself that my friend, in 
 an unconventional fashion of his own, not readily intelligible to every- 
 body, differing from some who "hold the truth in unrighteousness," 
 and notwithstanding certain protestations made on former occasions, is 
 indeed a Christian man, a servant of God, who holds the truth in 
 righteousness. Of course there are not a few who, working by line and 
 rule, would fit everybody in the matrix from which they issued them- 
 selves, and will be surprised at this declaration, which, however, without 
 presuming to judge any who differ from me, I make in all sincerity. 
 
 \ 
 
Wordsworth and the Duddon. 73 
 
 On these remarkable rocks my friend makes the following remark 
 in " Deucalion," page 222 : — " The most wonderful piece of weathering 
 in all my own district is on a projecting mass of intensely hard rock on 
 the eastern side of Goat's Water. It was discovered and shown to me 
 by my friend the Rev. F. A. Malleson, and exactly resembles deep 
 ripple-marking, though nothing in the grain of the rock indicates its 
 undulating structure." 
 
 [Since writing the above reminiscence of my few years^ friendship 
 with Mr. Ruskin (the intercourse, but not the friendship, being broken by 
 his illness), a new and happy revelation has been made to me— a com- 
 plete corroboration of hopes which before had but a struggling existence. 
 
 On February 5, this year 1890 (the first really brilliant day after two 
 months of storms and heavy rains), the Rector of Grasmere and myself 
 had taken out the Rev. Canon G. E. Mason, the admirable conductor of 
 a Retreat of Clergy at Rydal (then in its midst), along the lovely banks 
 of Rydal Water, when the conversation chanced to fall upon the circum- 
 stances just narrated, and Mr. Fletcher mentioned that in " Prseterita" 
 Mr. Ruskin had made a clear and unhesitating statement of his faith in 
 the Christian religion. At my request, he very kindly sent me a copy of 
 the passage to which he referred, which I shall here give in full : — 
 
 " In these days of the rehgion of this and that — briefly, let us say, the rehgion of 
 Stocks and Posts — in order to say a clear word of the Campo Santo, one must first 
 say a firm word concerning Christianity itself. I find numbers, even of the most 
 intelligent and amiable people, not knowing what the word means ; because they are 
 always asking how much is true, and how much they like, and never ask, first, what 
 was the total meaning of it, whether they like it or not. 
 
 " The total meaning was, and is, that the God who made earth and its creatures 
 took at a certain time upon the earth the flesh and form of man ; in that flesh sus- 
 tained the pain and died the death of the creature He had made ; rose again after 
 death into glorious human life ; and when the date of the human race is ended, 
 will return in visible human foim, and render to every man according to his work. 
 Christianity is the belief in and love of God thus manifested. An> thing less than 
 this, the mere acceptance of the sayings of Christ, or assertion of any less than Divine 
 power in His Being, may be, for aught I know, enough for virtue, peace, and safety ; 
 but they do not make people Christians, or enable them to understand the heart of 
 the simplest believer in the old doctrine." — " Prasterita," Vol. II. (ed. 1887), 
 pp. 208, 209. 
 
 To have known and loved and admired John Ruskin in his days of 
 
74 Holiday Studies. 
 
 health and strength, to have grieved over his doubts and struggles, and 
 to see at length the clouds rolled away, and the Sun of Righteousness 
 risen with healing in His wings, as the sun in the heavens was on that 
 day by Rydal Water shining in unclouded glory out of a serene sky, and 
 glittering in the placid surface of the sweet blue lake at our feet, after 
 so long a season of storm and darkness, was an experience calling for 
 the deepest thankfulness.] 
 
 Shall I be forgiven if I quote the following short passage from a 
 published letter addressed to the writer ? — 
 
 " I have this morning been reading your own [comments], on which I very 
 earnestly congratulate you. God knows it is not because they are friendly or com- 
 plimentary, but because you do see what I mean ; and people hardly ever do ; and I 
 think it needs very considerable power and feeling to forgive and understand as you 
 do." — "Letters to the Clergy on the Lord's Prayer and the Church," page 371. 
 
 I may, I trust, without any violation of confidence, relate the 
 apparently slight event that preceded our mountain walk to see the 
 curious rocks at Goat's Water. I had visited Mr. Ruskin at Brantwood, 
 and in a conversation in the drawing-room he had come to the point 
 that he said, " I have already given up the Resurrection," when the 
 door-bell rang, and he added, " It is well that we are interrupted, or I 
 might have said things that would have pained you more still." Shortly 
 after came the invitation (1879) to explore the flanks of the Old Man of 
 Coniston, the quiet lunch, the pleasant row across the lake, and the 
 slow toilsome ascent of the mountain by two men in close conference, 
 both beginning to feel the inroads of age. 
 
 The last scene of all is up the stream above Duddon Bridge, just one 
 
 mile from the quaint and ancient little village-town of Broughton-in- 
 
 Furness. The whole neighbourhood is graced and beautified with 
 
 woods, with flowers, ferns, and pretty cottages at Bank End embowered 
 
 in shade ; while looking up the placid sheet of Duddon, and just above 
 
 the bridge, is a finished landscape of wood and water, mountain and 
 
 fell, seen by the writer a thousand times with undiminished love and 
 
 interest. 
 
 " So may thy poet, cloud-born stream ! be free — 
 The sweets of earth contentedly resigned, 
 
W0J?DSW0J?TH AND THE DuDDON. 75 
 
 And each tumultuous working left behind 
 At seemly distance— to advance like thee ; 
 Prepared in peace of heart, in calm of mind 
 And soul, to mingle with Eternity." 
 
 Soon after this, Duddon enters the staid and sober stage of his later 
 existence. His gambols and his merry pranks are ended, and, now that 
 the last bridge is passed, he soon spreads widely over the sandy estuary. 
 
 " Not hurled precipitous from steep to steep ; 
 Lingering no more 'mid flower-enamelled lands 
 And blooming thickets ; nor by rocky bands 
 Held ; but in radiant progress towards the Deep 
 Where mightiest rivers into powerless sleep 
 Sink, and forget their nature — now expands 
 Majestic Duddon, over smooth flat sands, 
 Gliding in silence with unfettered sweep ! 
 Beneath an ampler sky a region wide 
 Is opened round him : hamlets, towers, and towns. 
 And blue-topped hills, behold him from afar." 
 
 What a contrast to the origin of the stream, only sixteen miles 
 above ! This child of the cloudy heavens enjoys a bright and happy 
 youth, and dies young, entering the sea still clear and bright, and not 
 yet sullied or impure. So might our childhood, so might our manhood, 
 and even our old age, run sparkling and unsullied, till it enters into its 
 rest in the all-embracing arms of the Everlasting Father. 
 
 " We, the brave, the mighty, and the wise. 
 We Men, who in our morn of youth defied 
 The elements, must vanish ; — be it so ! 
 Enough, if something from our hands have power 
 To live, and act, and serve the future hour ; 
 And if, as toward the silent tomb we go, 
 Through love, through hope, and faith's transcendent dower. 
 We feel that we are greater than we know." 
 
 188^. 
 
Some Swi06 IRotee. 
 
Some Swiss Notes. 
 
 The Castle and the Battle of Grandson— Yverdon— Education in Switzerland— Temperance- 
 Great Storm of 1877— Bormio— The Iron Gates of Cepina— Lago di Scale— Abundance of 
 Churches and Wayside Shrines— Santa Caterina— Study of Alpine Scenery— Decay and 
 Beggary at Bormio— Cretinism. 
 
 ^HE single line of rails from Neuchatel to Yverdon runs close 
 by the water-side, in which lie mirrored the low green hills 
 of Fribourg, unfurnished with the vines which clothe its 
 Vaudois banks, and the white villages and small towns 
 repeating themselves in its limpid waters; but the brightest 
 r^ reflection of all is that of the jagged line of the gleaming 
 Alps of Fribourg and Berne, which are not of the race of giants that 
 tower into the sky further south, but yet are clothed with snow as far 
 down as we can see. We pass Vaumarcus, the true battlefield of 
 Grandson, which Sir Walter Scott, in "Anne of Geierstein" (with his usual 
 inaccuracy in matters of detail) miscalled Vaumoreux ; while he also, 
 in the same narrative, transposed the head and the foot of the lake, 
 Neuchatel lying really at the foot and Yverdon at the head. The easy- 
 going train stops at Grandson, which we visited at a later day, but will 
 take the opportunity of mentioning in detail now. The Swiss chateaux, 
 unlike the Schlosser of Tyrol, are castles indeed, towered and battle- 
 mented, solidly built for defence in those troublous days before the Swiss 
 had learnt, as they have only so lately learnt, to appreciate the blessings 
 of national unity. 
 
 The castle of Grandson is built on a high rock near the water-side, 
 which used to bathe its feet, before the lake, by drainage, sank several 
 feet, leaving a wide and desolate pebbly shore. Round a spacious 
 courtyard, once the scene of jousts and tournaments, as well as of more 
 serious conflicts, runs a lofty wooden gallery^ standing exactly as it was 
 constructed many centuries ago for attack and defence, and for holi-" 
 day spectators of the rough sports below. We were shown a horrible 
 
8o Holiday Studies. 
 
 dungeon, to which, no doubt, Sir Walter was indebted for his description 
 of the dark and dismal cell at La Jarette, in which Arthur Philipson was 
 ruthlessly cast, with the momentary prospect of sinking through the 
 caverned floor, which gaped beneath him, and in the ghastly depths of 
 which he could hear the sullen plashing of the hungry waters which 
 were to receive his corpse, crushed and torn in its fall on the opposing 
 blades and spikes which bristled round its sides. Such was the horrible 
 abyss shown to us, only half shorn of its terrors. Outside the castle 
 walls stood the gloomy and forbidding keep, still darkened with rankly 
 growing vegetation, where the butcher Charles of Burgundy hung the 
 brave defenders of their beautiful country by hundreds from the 
 branches of the trees. A stone bullet shot from the artillery of Charles, 
 which thundered from the heights above, is still seen half embedded high 
 up in the wall of the castle. Well was it for the brave sons of Helvetia 
 that, fearless of the terrible odds of four to one, they rushed upon the 
 too-confident foe, fought for half an hour, and drove them back in 
 irretrievable rout. Within is a small collection of arms found in the 
 neighbourhood — some on land, some in the lake itself — among them the 
 two-handed swords (to which, with the stout arms and stouter hearts 
 that swung them, the Swiss owed their complete victory), battle-axes, 
 and frightful-looking spherical-headed clubs armed with long sharp steel 
 spikes, which must have done terrible execution. The views from the 
 castle across the lake are of great beauty. The castle itself is in good 
 repair, and is the residence and property of an Italian gentleman. The 
 beautiful and quiet western borders of the lake of Neuchatel are not 
 sufficiently known to English tourists, or rather to the wearied spirits of 
 those whose activity has been brought to a standstill, and who must 
 have rest and recreation before they can plunge again into the battle- 
 field of life, with courage refreshed and spirits revived. The wonderful 
 and magnificent limestone gorges, de I'Areuse and du Covetannaz, and 
 the splendid Creux du Vent, are well worth a long journey. 
 
 Yverdon is a small town by no means devoid of attractions, and 
 which would well reward a visit of a few days. But I intend here to 
 speak less of scenery than of objects of living interest. Here is the fine 
 towered castle where Pestalozzi gathered together the youthful sufferers 
 
Some Swiss Notes. 8i 
 
 from the devastation of the great French irruption, and gave practical 
 demonstration of the superiority of an intelligent, lively, and animated 
 education of the faculties over the system of rote then most in vogue. 
 They are about to raise a statue to him at Yverdon — to him whom they 
 compelled, in 1 825, to leave their town. The world persecutes many of its 
 best benefactors, and after their death raises monuments to their memory. 
 Under his successors the school degenerated considerably ; but it has 
 now for many years been the centre of education for the youth of 
 Yverdon, thousands of whom are under instruction in a very large 
 number of rooms, courts, and halls — better employed in the mental 
 cultivation of the young than in the warfare and bloodshed for which 
 these massive walls and high round towers were first erected. The 
 writer, conducted by M. Naeff, his former schoolfellow of half a century 
 ago (now the courteous and able president of the Yverdon School 
 Board), could not but be greatly impressed with the brightness, activity, 
 and intelligence of the teachers, and the ready apprehension, willing 
 obedience, and cheerful compliance with discipline shown by the 
 children. The manuals employed (which, of course, were only sub- 
 sidiary to the viva voce instruction, which always holds the highest place 
 in real education) seemed to me to be of the best kind, examined and 
 approved before adoption by superior authority. Everywhere in the 
 Suisse Romande (that is, Neuchatel, Vaud, and Geneva) the school 
 buildings are very spacious, each class being always taught in a separate 
 room even in the small villages, and not, as is still too often the case in 
 England in village schools, several classes going on noisily clashing 
 together between the same four walls. 
 
 In many Swiss towns the ancient fortified chateaux, once the scenes 
 of endless strife and division, are now patriotically employed in the 
 education of the rising generation. It has been often truly observed 
 that Switzerland is the most highly educated country in Europe. But 
 an unhappy qualification of this high, but justly deserved, praise must 
 be pronounced — that Switzerland is also one of the most notorious for 
 its intemperance. In the beautiful National Exhibition at Zurich in 
 1883, it was surprising and painful to observe the large space devoted 
 to the display not of wine only (at which we cannot be surprised), 
 F 
 
82 Holiday Studies. 
 
 but of ardent spirits, which are extracted from several indigenous 
 plants. 
 
 Again, if education is to be really useful and a firm foundation of 
 manly dignity, there must be books, magazines, periodicals, both cheap 
 and popular, in sufficient abundance. This is just what Switzerland has 
 not, and as long as she has nothing better to offer to her admirably 
 educated youths than a very meagre proportion of wholesome literature 
 and a pretty liberal supply of unwholesome trash, and worse than trash, 
 pouring in from France, it is not much to be wondered at that the 
 long winter evenings will be spent in rioting and drunkenness. At 
 Lausanne and Geneva we had great difficulty in finding any kind of 
 nice cheap periodicals for presents to servants, or to friends of the 
 humbler class. At Geneva we sought for some time before we could 
 discover the only shop in a by-street up a steep climb. Good literature 
 seems as little prized in Switzerland as pure religion ; and if the more 
 enlightened and patriotic desire the material and moral, but above all 
 the religious, advancement of their country, they must labour strenuously 
 to add a pure and manly religious, or at any rate not irreligious, literature 
 to a rightly regulated education. In Switzerland education is called free ; 
 and it is so in the sense that no poor persons are ever burdened with 
 the expense of the education of their children. But as every household 
 is equitably rated, it so happens that those who have no children help to 
 pay for those who have, while poor persons with large families find their 
 burdens considerably lightened by this participation of responsibility. 
 The result, with the sad drawback which I have mentioned, is singularly 
 effective. In our walks over the Jura pastures and among the moun" 
 tain forest paths, we generally took with us some of Mrs. Grimke's'^ 
 beautiful and useful little illuminated cards in French and in Ger- 
 man, and showing these to the children we met, promised that they 
 should have them if they could read them. All read with fluency 
 and intelligence, consequently the distribution was pretty large. Even 
 a bare-footed little cowboy of ten, near Ste. Croix, some 5,000 feet high, 
 read them with perfect ease and a very good intonation. 
 
 * Of Higher Broughton, Manchester. 
 
 \ 
 
Some Swiss Notes. 83 
 
 The great temperance movement is far from being unfelt in Switzer- 
 land ; but its progress is slow, and accompanied with difficulty. At 
 present it is so exclusively in the hands of " les plus avances " in spiritual 
 religion, that it is looked upon as a characteristic feature of the religious 
 life ; and is almost altogether discountenanced in the EgHse Nationale, 
 in which to be too religious, that is to say openly religious at all, is 
 generally and popularly accounted to be a mark of great weakness. It is 
 much to be hoped that, by the blessing of God, a more decided feeling 
 will sooner or later prevail in this fair land in favour of a practical 
 Christianity according to the Word of God and not of man. Then it 
 will be seen that a voluntary total abstinence adopted for example's sake 
 is quite consistent with the exercise of a noble and reasonable religion. 
 At any rate they might begin at infancy, and not give wine or beer, as is 
 done almost universally, to infants of a year old. At present our bits of 
 blue ribbon and the badge of the Church of England Temperance 
 Society, often seen at table d'hote, are looked upon with more wonder 
 than admiration as new developments of British eccentricity. True it is 
 that in a land of vines the question naturally arises : what about the 
 grapes and the wine-making? But that is not so much the real question 
 as how to get rid of the pernicious burning spirits they distil from the 
 beautiful plants that clothe the land with splendour. No one would lose 
 by letting the yellow gentian alone, which a girl (a temperante of Ste. 
 Croix) who was guiding us to the Chasseron described to us as tres 
 nuisible. It is one of the greatest mistakes possible to say, as is so often 
 said, that the water in Switzerland is so bad that one is obliged to drink 
 wine. We never found the water otherwise than pure, sparkling, and 
 perfectly delicious. An abundance of springs and streams bursts forth 
 from the mountain-sides in all directions, and is poured forth almost in 
 torrents from those excellent fountains for all domestic uses which are 
 seen in every place, and two or three in every street. The Vaudois 
 seldom drink their own pure and limpid spring-water. The more the 
 pity. But this is no reason why English people should join in the false 
 charge and deprecate the best of water as a common beverage. Still, 
 go where we will, we do find English ladies and gentlemen at table 
 d'hote with their bits of blue trying to set a quiet and unostentatious 
 
8-4 Holiday Studies. 
 
 example, and the movement which is of such recent growth in our own 
 island will not tarry long before it enlists followers in the first health 
 resort in Europe. 
 
 In the museum kept in the Castle of Yverdon is a small object 
 associated with terrible recollections. It is simply a card carrying on it 
 three or four slips cut from the branches of a tree, with the bark and the 
 wood ripped and scored, torn and blistered all over ; a sample of what 
 all the trees were after the dreadful storm of 1877^ as it was described to 
 me by eye-witnesses. The north wind surged in terrible blasts, hovering 
 with black wings over the ill-fated land. The dense sky descended like 
 a low dark ceiling. The roaring and the bellowing of the wind drowned 
 the incessant crash of thunder. Dense hail swooped down in masses of 
 ice ; and in eight minutes every tree and every vine was stripped of all its 
 foliage and fruit, which lay chopped and torn into smallest fragments 
 on the ground a foot thick. In a quarter of an hour not only was all 
 hope of a harvest destroyed for that year, but it took several years for 
 the trees and the vines to recover. Such are the storms to which sub- 
 Alpine regions are liable. 
 
 It appears to me almost as if it were in England only that the Bible 
 is really acknowledged as being both at the foundation of worship and 
 in its superstructure ; though unquestionably its indirect and insensible 
 influence is everywhere manifest among "all people who profess and 
 call themselves Christians." At Lugano I wanted to purchase an Italian 
 Testament. But not a single Bible or New Testament could I find in 
 any bookseller's shop in the capital of the Tessin, though at last I met 
 with a single copy at an obscure stationer's. At Meran, in the Tyrol, 
 the servants, young women of fair education, did not even know the out- 
 side of a Bible, never having seen one. Yet they loved their little 
 devotional books and hymns which they showed me. In Protestant 
 Switzerland, in the National Church, the Bible is very little used in the 
 churches ; though in the Eglise libre, where there is far more spiritual 
 life, a better state of things exists. Usually the service commences with 
 the solemn reading of the Ten Commandments by the schoolmaster, 
 followed by our Lord's summary of them, after which the sacred Book 
 
Some Swiss Notes. 85 
 
 being no longer wanted, except to read the text from, is solemnly laid 
 aside. I need hardly add that the matter of the sermon gains very 
 little support or illustration from the words of Scripture. I report these 
 -personal observations not in a boastful spirit of vain censoriousness, but 
 with a very deep regret that Swiss Protestantism owns so little in com- 
 mon with primitive and apostolic Christianity. 
 
 BAGNI DI BORMIO. 
 
 During our three weeks' stay at Bagni di Bormio in the Valtelline, 
 the vast mountain masses of the Stelvio were seen rising so steeply from 
 the very grounds of the hotel, only a small portion being visible at a time, 
 that our curiosity and interest were awakened in a very lively manner, 
 not unmixed with anxiety and apprehension. For it was already 
 September; and we were due at Meran for my chaplaincy on the 21st, 
 and we were almost daily hearing unpleasant rumours of heavy falls of 
 snow on the Stelvio, which at this season stops all communication by 
 the Eastern Alps. If, unfortunately for us, the snow should have come 
 down just at this juncture, we should have been compelled to undertake a 
 long and expensive journey round by the Lake of Como and Verona. 
 
 In June, 1882, a hundred labourers were kept at work for a month 
 in clearing away snow from the road to keep the communication open. 
 We therefore continually surveyed our colossal neighbour with an 
 admiration not unmingled with awe and apprehension. By the end of 
 September the Stelvio is always expected to be closed, and generally is 
 so. We therefore had to keep a sharp look-out on the weather indica- 
 tions, and to be ready to depart on the iirst notice of serious danger. 
 
 Bagni di Bormio is a charming spot for a stay, either before or after 
 crossing the Stelvio, and deserves a much higher appreciation than it 
 has generally met with from tourists, bound either from Tyrol or for 
 North Italy, who generally stay merely a night or two and pass on. 
 Placed on an elevation of 4,396 feet above the sea-level, at the very head 
 of the Valtelline, dominated by snowy and by rocky peaks, it enjoys the 
 purest of air and some of the most magnificent of Alpine scenery, while 
 
S6 Holiday Studies. 
 
 the hotel accommodation is everything that the most fastidious Briton 
 can reasonably desire. 
 
 As it is an aim of mine to point out a few objects of interest which 
 seem to have escaped others, I will here mention the wondrous and ad- 
 mirable iron gates of Cepina, which have been overlooked both by Murray 
 and Baedeker. Cepina is a small out-of-the-way village about four miles 
 from Bagni di Bormio down the valley. It stands rather high above the 
 right bank of the Adda, opposite to that along which runs the high road 
 to Tirano, and must be reached, after passing it half a mile, by crossing 
 the river over the stone bridge. In this poor village stands an ossuario 
 or mortuary house, a small square building containing unusually good 
 frescoes within and without, and closed in by a triad of the most lovely 
 and precious gates in wrought iron. Their remoteness from the beaten 
 track will account for the neglect with which these remarkable gates 
 have been treated. This splendid specimen of sixteenth-century iron- 
 work consists of three circular-headed gates, the middle one about twelve 
 feet high, the side ones about two feet lower and divided by granite 
 pillars. The workmanship of these gates is of the most exquisite, and 
 what I may call without a strained sestheticism, the most tender, delicacy, 
 and we stood long gazing at them, lost in delight and admiration. A 
 gentle afid loving hand would seem to have wrought out every detail 
 with an elaborate lightness and elegance rarely paralleled. They are 
 made chiefly of ribbon iron about two inches wide, and a quarter of an 
 inch thick, the edges facing outward, blossoming out with an energy 
 resembling that of organised life, into foliated forms, into flowers, bosses, 
 knots and delicate pillars twisted into the very lines of perfect grace. 
 The whole graceful design is of such exquisite lightness, artfully com- 
 bined with boldness and vigour, that one has a difficulty in believing that 
 every single portion was wrought with the hammer, of which the strokes 
 are plainly visible, and never even touched with the file. To me, at any 
 rate, it appeared strange that those gates, now 300 years old, should 
 never have had one touch of paint or varnish, and yet exhibited not the 
 slightest appearance of rust. The designer and the workmen, I was 
 told, were all of the Valtelline, The contadini or villagers are justly 
 proud of this unique possession, and had just refused the offer of 20,000 
 
 \ 
 
Some Siv/ss Notes. 87 
 
 francs made by Mr. Astor, the United States Minister at Rome, who was 
 staying at Bormio Baths at the same time with us. The frescoes painted 
 outside are very fine and of marvellous freshness, a singular part of them 
 being, however, a couple of skeletons, represented as mourning in company 
 together, with a strong expression of inconsolable grief depicted on their 
 fleshless faces. I do not know that I ever before saw eyeless orbits 
 weeping. Certainly one would hardly look for work so lovely, in a wild 
 and rather poverty-stricken land, where not a single other object of 
 artistic worth is to be seen for many miles. I know of nothing whatever 
 noteworthy nearer than Madonna di Tirano, where is a very beautiful 
 pilgrimage church, with much rich carving in wood and marble^ 
 
 We cannot but lament the injury done to all decorative art by the too 
 plentiful application of machinery. It is, I think, Lenormant who says, 
 "L'art y a perdu, comme il perd presque partout, a I'emploi des machines." 
 
 Another interesting and little-known spot in this neighbourhood is 
 the beautiful little mountain lake, Lago di Scale, about four miles from 
 Bormio, and not noticed in Baedeker. You advance, continually ascend- 
 ing, until you see loftily rising before you a vast perpendicular wall of 
 red rock, some 500 or 600 feet high, through which you understand that 
 you are to penetrate, by some way not as yet apparent, until the in- 
 creasingly steep and rugged stony path brings you face to face with a 
 long and deep natural fissure or gorge, riven through the highest ridge, 
 and scarcely three yards in width, to which you ascend by means of a 
 wooden bridge of the very rudest construction. Covering and guarding 
 each vast buttress of this gorge, which is in reality a pass between Swiss 
 
 * Writing of half-known or unknown places of antiquarian interest, let me here mention 
 another valuable Alpine work of ancient religious art. Near Andermatt, close by the 
 Unserenloch or Trou d'Uri, is the very ancient church of St. Columba, the priest of this wintry 
 valley a.d. 632. The chancel is an irregular pentagon, not built straight with the nave. An 
 old and rude oil painting in the sacristy of a Capuchin friar bears the inscription .... 
 lODOCUS FILIUS REGIS ANGLI^E. ORD EREMIT. AUG. A heavy pulpit of 
 granite bears a date resembling 1339 (j J JO)) vvhich may probably be 1559. The font or holy- 
 water basin, for it may be both, bears the monogram— which I do not profess to understand— 
 
 H ^ R 
 
 + + 
 
88 Holiday Studies. 
 
 and Italian territory, stands an old square ruined tower. Threading the 
 narrow defile, you debouch first into one narrow valley, then into 
 another, wider and of great loveliness. The smooth hollow of the valley 
 is filled with the stillest and most transparent of blue crystalline 
 mountain lakes, a jewel in a picturesque setting of banks clothed with 
 Finns montana, and richly coloured, no doubt, earlier in the year with 
 the dark pink blossoms of the so-called Alpine rose, which is in reality a 
 rhododendron. This must be a rich hunting-ground for the botanist at 
 the right season, as the dead and dying remains in the middle of 
 September sufficiently attested. There were remains of Saxifraga 
 Ccesia, the rich orange of Seiiecio abrotonifolius was still conspicuous, and 
 on all the mountain-slopes around, the coveted Edelweiss. The richest 
 pastures surround the head of the lake, which is between 6,000 and 7,000 
 feet high, where snugly nestles the farm, lately purchased with the lake 
 and mountains by M. de Planta, whose name is great in the Engadine, 
 the proprietor of the hotels of the old and new baths at Bormio, and of 
 many broad acres and pastoral mountains in the Grisons country. 
 Strange to say, there lay in hopeless idleness, extended on the grassy 
 bank, two Italian Custom-house officers, whose too easy duty is to accost 
 the extremely few travellers who use this unfrequented pass to cross 
 from the Swiss Grisons into the Italian Valtelline, and inquire whether 
 they happen to have any " cigarri o tabacchi " about them : a form 
 through which they of course went in our case also, to whom smoking is 
 an accomplishment unknown ! I tried to have a chat with the poor 
 lonely fellows, which my very limited knowledge of Italian brought to 
 too early a close. 
 
 Standing by the side of this lake the surrounding prospect is mag- 
 nificent with Alpine domes, cones, and peaks in every direction, the 
 grand Bernina masses in Switzerland, and the Adamello range in Italy 
 standing out sharply and brilliantly conspicuous against the dark blue. 
 
 Even in this remote and d'esolate spot is a little chapel, how and 
 when used I am unable to say. It was not open as churches generally are 
 in Italy, but as is usual in lonely spots, a grated window opening is left 
 on each side of the door, with a stone kneeling-place under it, for such 
 worshippers as desired to behold the altar within. Churches abound in 
 
Some Swiss Notes. 89 
 
 all the Valtelline and the adjacent Tyrol. You find them everywhere, 
 on mountain summits, in silent forests, by rushing torrents, in lonely 
 gorges and passes; wherever there are two or three houses within the 
 distance of a couple or so of miles, there we shall be certain to find a 
 church, besides the numberless painted shrines, pictures, crosses, and 
 crucifixes which you meet at every half-mile. Never have I seen one of 
 these religious memorials defaced or irreverently used. They stand in 
 perfect security against injury for centuries. We of the reformed faith 
 might, if we would, learn lessons from the reverence of these people, who 
 generally look upon us as the Chinese do upon European barbarians. 
 But in our desire to clear ourselves from every taint of superstition, we 
 have perhaps thrown away with too little discrimination the good with 
 the bad. We seldom went into a church without finding someone in 
 devout or at any rate silent prayer, and what the French so well call 
 recueillement. 
 
 The simple piety and artless affection for their pastors felt by these. 
 Alpine folk seemed pleasantly illustrated to us by the following in- 
 scriptions, which I copied from the front of a church and on the priest's 
 house at Hospenthal, at the foot of the road over the St. Gothard. A 
 new priest had just been appointed. 
 
 Before the church : — 
 
 " Wie sich zum Kranz umschlingen, 
 Die frischen Zweige hier 
 Wird Eintracht dich umringen 
 Im Volk ergeben dir. 
 
 Vom lieben Gott beschieden, 
 Zu spenden Gottes Frieden 
 Und Himmelstrost im Leben. 
 Bist du hier uns gegeben." 
 
 Before the presbytery : — 
 
 '• Komm und bewahre gut deine Heerde, 
 Sei herzlich willkommen du Seelenhirte." 
 
 A favourite and exceedingly fine excursion from Bormio is to St. 
 Caterina, at the long and narrow head of the Furva valley. Half-way, 
 at St. Nicolo, is an exhibition which is no help to devotion ; a mortuary 
 
90 Holiday Studies. 
 
 chapel, rather let us call it a bone and charnel house, in which the 
 example of pure taste set at Cepina has not been followed. The valley- 
 ends at the Baths of St. Caterina, and from this terminus none go 
 further, except with guides, over the lofty and somewhat dangerous 
 passes among snow-fields and glaciers. 
 
 The fairest, noblest peak in sight is Monte Tresero, shining 
 lustrously, like frosted silver, in the brilliant Italian sunshine, with a 
 dazzling whiteness with which no other white can vie, certainly not the 
 fairest, purest swansdown, for owing to the abundance of white light 
 reflected from the glittering surface, no shadows are thrown. It rises 
 before me still as a vividly remembered picture, set in the dainty 
 sapphire blue of a cloudless southern sky, and shaded at every softly 
 swelling fold, and at every sharp-cut ridge, by the blended shadows of 
 pale blue and silver greys of varying depth and hue, thrown by a brilliant 
 sun, dappled and flecked with darker ledges and blocks of isolated out- 
 cropping rocks. Then lower down between the lines of 7,000 and 8,000 
 feet, above the line of glacial action, lie spread the gently undulating 
 Alpine pastures, with the little brown pine-built chalets or sennhiitte 
 dropped here and there with a charming variety. Then the eye ranges 
 down to the region of the dark and solemn forests of pine, intersected 
 here by the long silver streaks of roaring torrents, there by the shepherd's 
 and the woodman's forest-path — forests whose serried crowds of deep- 
 green-pointed spires are relieved from a too great and wearisome 
 monotony by the gentle dips and depressions of the mountain-sides and 
 the vacant grassy interspaces, green and smooth at this distance, appa- 
 rently, as an English lawn. Lastly, the bright green valley, with its rude 
 imperfect cultivation, its brawling torrent of grey glacier water, its poor 
 and half-ruined villages, not one, however small, without its old Italian 
 towered church, enriched with frescoed walls, and its little wayside shrines 
 and crucifixes. 
 
 Bormio is an antiquated, decaying, and squalid town of scarcely 1,000 
 inhabitants. The main street is just fifteen feet wide, with a gutter 
 running down its centre, with no pavement, and not the slightest 
 approach to lighting. The shops display scarcely any frontage, and one 
 has to find out what is sold in them by inquiry. Even the chemist knew 
 
Some Swiss Notes. 91 
 
 not a word of any living language but Italian. The post office is closed 
 for the greater part of the day, and stamps are sold at the grocer's, but 
 there is no certainty about them. Poor as the place is otherwise, it has 
 many churches. In each confessional box is hung up for the con- 
 fessor's guidance a graduated schedule of sins, the first sin in the 
 first class being the frequenting of the conventicles of the heretics, 
 especially during the preaching. For the first offence the priest may 
 give absolution. But with the second offence none but the Archbishop 
 of Como may deal. Perhaps this severity is a survival of the persecu- 
 tions of the Waldenses. 
 
 The infant school is held in a gloomy ancient tower, built almost 
 wholly of stone and iron ; and the little children, the girls with full skirts 
 reaching down to their feet, and the little boys in rags and tatters, have 
 no playground but a yard paved with hard round pebbles. Women 
 wear short skirts, with only a handkerchief upon the head ; all little girls 
 wear long skirts that hide their little feet, making them look like diminu- 
 tive women. In the by-streets we saw many women employed in 
 spinning flax with that most ancient spindle one sees in antique paint- 
 ings, which hangs revolving suspended in the air from one hand, while 
 with the other the worker spins out the thread. In all things Bormio 
 gives you the impression that you are in a mediaeval city, undisturbed 
 as yet by the scream of the locomotive, and the roar of the trains on the 
 iron roads, which had not (in 1883) yet come within fifty miles of this 
 profoundly sleeping community to disturb the slumber of centuries. 
 Beggary is, of course, a popular means of livelihood ; children run kissing 
 their hands after any stranger who looks at all likely to respond to their 
 plaintive cry of" Caritd, caritdl" In one place a child of four or five 
 came running after our carriage, kissing her little hand continually until 
 she got a few centimes, when an ugly vicious-looking cretin girl darted 
 out from behind a hedge, pounced upon the poor baby, gripped her, 
 shook her, lifted her from the ground, and shook her again to get her 
 treasure from the child's clenched hand, but all to no purpose, for the 
 child never relaxed her grip, until she saw a man running down to the 
 rescue, upon which the cretin let go, and came full speed after us again, 
 looking the picture of injured innocence, and beseeching for "■caritd!''^ 
 
92 H OLID A Y Studies. 
 
 Cretinism is a horrible pest in the ValtelHne, a judgment upon the people 
 for their filthy ways. Monstrous throats are seen in every village, and 
 yet with ordinary compassionate care this loathsome disease is easily 
 curable, and more easily preventible, and might certainly be eradicated 
 altogether by attention to a few simple sanitary rules. 
 
 1883. ■ , 
 
^be Stetvio paes. 
 
The Stelvio Pass. 
 
 History of the Great Road— Ascent on Foot— Alpine compared with English Lake Scenery— 
 The Tunnels and Galleries— Hot Springs of Bormio— Dolomite— Long Waterfalls— The 
 Spondalunga— Fighting in 1858— The Zigzags— Cold barren Region— Monte CristaJlo- 
 Fourth Cantoniere— Summit— View over the Ortler Range — Sublime Scenery— Its Effect 
 on Different Minds— Down to Trafoi— The Murderer Tourville— The Madatsch Glaciers by 
 Night and by Sunrise— Ruskin on Alpine Scenery— The "Three Holy Springs"— The 
 Church at Trafoi — Descent to Meran. 
 
 ^E went up the Stelvio three times — once on foot half-way up 
 and back to Bagni di Bormio to dinner in the evening ; the 
 second time, we walked to the summit, slept at the fourth 
 Cantoniere, and returned next day, also on foot ; the third 
 time was on our happy walking tour to Meran, when we 
 went up in the voiture poste, and walked down on the 
 Austrian side to Trafoi. Having thus stated what were my various 
 opportunities, such as they were, for the exploration of this stupendous 
 mountain pass, I will proceed to describe it to the best of my power. 
 
 The grand Stelvio road commences gently to rise just after leaving 
 Bormio, from which it ascends continually by windings and zigzags to 
 Ferdinandshohe, the summit, where there is no level space and the 
 descent commences at once. To this point, called also Stilfserjoch, 
 Passo di Braulio, and Giogo di Stelvio, is a distance from Bormio by 
 road of fifteen miles. Thence it descends continually by innumerable 
 windings twenty miles further to Prad, where it debouches in the Valley 
 of the Vintschgau, at the river Adige. Therefore, from foot to foot is a 
 distance by road of thirty-four miles. 
 
 Bormio, where the rise commences, is 4,012 feet above the level of 
 the sea; the summit is 9,045 feet; the ascent is therefore of 5,033 feet. 
 Prad is 2,940 feet high, so that the descent is 6,105 feet ; and the Italian 
 foot is higher by 1,072 feet than the Tyrolese. 
 
 We learn something of the history of this colossal work from a large 
 marble tablet let into the rock just between the high wooden bridge and 
 
9^ Holiday Studies. 
 
 the first short tunnel, a httle above the hotel. It was constructed by 
 order of Francis I., Emperor of Austria, P.F.A.,^ and is stated to have 
 been made from Bormio to Athesis,\ over the pass of the Braulio^ which 
 is the name of the torrent that rises in the mountain and joins the Adige 
 at Premadio. It is here stated to be the highest pass in Europe for 
 carriage traffic, to have been begun in 1820 and opened in 1825 by Arch- 
 duke Rainer. Then follow the names of the architect, Charles Doneganni, 
 the contractor, and others. Five years seem but a short time for so 
 colossal a work ; but a large part of the army was employed upon it in 
 a time of peace. 
 
 Before the Stelvio road was made, there was no possibility of passing 
 this mountain at all, except on foot by the most adventurous moun- 
 taineers ; and to reach the Valtelline from the Vintschgau upon wheels, 
 the only way was to ride from Trafoi, on the Tyrolese side, by excessively 
 rough and steep tracks to the fourth and highest Cantoniere, where a 
 road still used takes one over the Umbrail Pass or Wurmserjoch, about 
 1,000 feet lower than the Stilfserjoch, on to Santa Maria, in the Munster- 
 thal ; then over the Bufifalora and Ofener Passes to Zernetz, up the 
 Lower Engadine and Pontresina, over the Bernina Pass, and so down 
 into Italy at Tirano, a long journey of nearly 120 miles instead of the 
 odd twenty. The Austrian Government wished to purchase the Pass of 
 Santa Maria to carry their road through it, but the Government of the 
 Grisons refused, compelling the Austrian engineers to penetrate a region 
 hitherto unknown except to the goat-herd and the chamois-hunter. 
 From Austria the military road lay through Innsbruck, over the Brenner 
 Pass by Botzen to Verona. Some idea of the difficulty of the mountain 
 roads before Napoleon I. taught on the St. Bernard how to construct 
 military roads over great mountain passes, may be obtained by observa- 
 tion of the excessively rough, rocky, and steep ox-cart roads and mule- 
 tracks still used in preference over the mountain passes for the ordinary 
 traffic of the peasantry. I have seen a team of oxen resting for a minute 
 at the foot of some steep, terribly stiff bit of road on bare uneven rock, 
 and then, in their quiet, dull, patient way, pull up it a heavy load of 
 
 * PII. FELICIS. AUGUSTI : a frequent attribute of Roman Catholic Emperors. 
 t The Adige or Etsch, so called by Strabo. 
 
 \ 
 
The Stelvio Pass. 97 
 
 timber or stone without the least apparent effort or distress. In the 
 same way they would get a heavily-laden cart over the St. Gothard or 
 ' the Brenner. Stout little packhorses, heavily laden, and generally headed 
 by a white animal, will walk by themselves over such places, the peasant 
 drivers slowly trudging before them. 
 
 As for the Stelvio, the descent to Bormio, even on foot, would, I 
 presume, have been impracticable, except perhaps during the height of 
 summer, close by the river bed, on account of the enormous buttresses 
 of rock which barrier the mountain side, protruding straight down to the 
 rushing Braulio, all of which are now pierced, tunnelled, or ledged and 
 terraced, for the passage of the road. 
 
 After the forced cession by the Austrians of Lombardy to Italy in 
 i860, there ceased to be any inducement for the Empire of the two- 
 headed eagle to keep up the road, a work of heavy expense after the 
 destructive agency of winter has been in operation, and it fell into dis- 
 repair. By degrees, however, the Italian Governments, conscious of its 
 importance, kept their side of it in better order, and now, under the rule 
 of a united Italy, it is rarely, for the three or four summer months that 
 it is open, to be found otherwise than in good repair. 
 
 Let us now on foot begin the ascent of the famous pass. We shall 
 not by any means use the great road all the way ; certainly not the 
 grand semi-circular sweep from the hotel to the first bridge, where the 
 engineers, with a studied regard to the picturesque, have left standing a 
 huge dark natural obelisk of rock, forty feet high. Perhaps we shall not 
 use more than a third or a fourth of it, either in ascending or descending, 
 as the short cuts between one sharp angle in the road and another are so 
 numerous that a good walker, starting at the same time with the coach, 
 could easily reach the summit the first. 
 
 In these lower reaches of the road we are upon the battle-ground of 
 the Garibaldian irregulars with the Austrian troops in 1859, when first 
 the Austrians, then the patriots, held the large buildings of the ancient 
 and the modern Baths, and made them into barracks, when the wooden 
 bridge was cut down, and after much fighting in these awful gorges the 
 Imperial troops were driven back in wild confusion and with great loss, 
 destroying behind them the third Cantoniere, which is still lying in ruins. 
 G 
 
98 Holiday Studies. 
 
 On the left, deep down below, lies the gloomy gorge of the foaming, 
 tossing Braulio, whence rise abruptly, at an angle of forty-five degrees, 
 the bare, torrent-furrowed flanks of the Scale. Fresh as we were from 
 our own mountain home, the change from the tender grace and exquisite 
 refined loveliness of the sweet scenery of our own land of blue lakes and 
 wild heather-clad fells to the grim and gloomy grandeur of the colossal 
 masses amongst which we were now moving could not but be accom- 
 panied with those emotions which no one who is wise will endeavour to 
 transfer from the recesses of his own mind to the inaccessible depths of 
 another's. I only wish to say that I have no sympathy with those who 
 can return from the mighty storm-beaten Alps to depreciate by com- 
 parison the less sublime, but perhaps far more really beautiful, scenery 
 at home. 
 
 We rise rapidly by the cuts, slowly by the road, which I feel certain 
 could be easily traversed by means of the modern admirable invention 
 of the bicycle or the tricycle, which, we learn from letters in the 
 Times, have been used with perfect success in crossing the Brenner and 
 other passes. The galleries or tunnels are boldly pierced through the 
 'Opposing buttresses which used to make this vast ravine impassable — 
 tunnels dark, dripping, and sloppy after every fall of rain or summer snow. 
 Underneath one a torrent from the mountain rushes down with much noise, 
 scientifically carried harmlessly through ; in another the dark passage 
 curves round, and is therefore doubly gloomy, though in most of them 
 there are lateral apertures to let in a little light, through which we look 
 down the deep gorge. Where they are roofed in with massive beams 
 it is for the purpose of carrying the avalanches of snow, or the torrents 
 of boulders and fragments over them, and the roof is therefore carefully 
 laid at the same inclination as the mountain-side above, so as to offer no 
 impediment to the sliding ruin. The tunnels, seven in number, and 
 measuring in all 2,220 feet, or about half a mile, are all between the 
 wooden bridge and the gorge of the Braulio, within a space of four or 
 five miles. The rest of the way there are no tunnels. 
 
 Towering up on the left is a dolomite mountain. The hot springs of 
 Bormio burst out in nine places from within the yellow cavernous rock 
 of rnagnesian limestone, which is named after the Gencvese geologist 
 
 1 
 
The Stelvio Pass. gg 
 
 Dolomieu.-^ Probably this mountain contains within its depths a great 
 lake of mineral water, issuing warm and wholesome in the neighbour- 
 hood, which hence is called Bagni di Bormio. 
 
 We sit and rest on a flower-enamelled bank, and watch the long 
 water-falls for ever streaming down the opposite perpendicular mountain, 
 " those bold, those bright, those sky-blue water-falls." The dolomite lime- 
 stone only caps the slate of which the Stelvio mountains consist, and the 
 streams which gush out from the mountain flow from the junction of the 
 limestone with the talc slate. The former, ochreous-tinted, cavernous, 
 and pitted, lies immediately upon the scarred, furrowed, and contorted 
 layers of dun grey slate, which lie closely wedged upon one another with 
 the regular order of courses of masonry, but twisted and corrugated, rent 
 and furrowed with long deep vertical gashes, like the well-known twisted 
 rocks by the Lake of Lucerne. These long thin streams, falling i,ooo 
 feet sheer almost vertically, form a very pretty study of Nature. That 
 which I see before me breaks out from the junction of the slate and the 
 dolomite as a broad wavy ribbon of silver, widening and shallowing as it 
 descends, here turned aside by interposing ledges of rock, gently curving 
 there or abruptly bending, and finally spreading out into a beautiful 
 fan-shaped filmy veil, gracefully floating in air, a perpetually varying, 
 slowly descending stream of gauzy liquid silver. 
 
 The great distance between the observer and the falling water gives 
 rise to an illusion, the stream appearing to descend silently, slowly, and 
 at leisure, in a manner which would be exchanged for din, and hurry, 
 and fury if we could stand just before it. This majestic silent calmness is 
 observable in any great water-fall seen from a distance,! and it is very 
 noticeable in the majestic long water-fall of Piz Languard, near Pon- 
 tresina, which, after issuing from the mountain-top with its accurate 
 curve of projection, conveys no sense of velocity, and is accompanied 
 with no noise of falling water. 
 
 * By the Fonte Pliniana, situated at the entrance of the deep gorge of the Braulio, in the 
 warna rock, grow patches of a minute maiden-hair fern, called, I understand, Adiantuni 
 boriniense, a distinct species, and found elsewhere only in Southern Italy. It is much to be 
 desired that the small quantity there is should be protected from wanton and useless depredation. 
 
 t Murray is surely in error in calling this water-fall the source of the Adda, which descends 
 the Val di Fraele. 
 
lOO Holiday Studies. 
 
 The dolomite not only caps the talc slate ; it also overhangs it. Is 
 this light, cavernous, and tufaceous formation actually harder and better 
 able to resist the constant wear of atmospheric action than the laminated 
 slate ? I suppose it must be so, for the crumbled fragments that lie in 
 conical heaps at the base consist only of debris of shattered slate, not of 
 dolomite. 
 
 With the valuable help of our alpenstocks, and with the lightest 
 possible impedimenta, we toil upwards past the dank and dismal tunnels 
 and wooden galleries, wondering at the vast overhanging ponderous 
 masses of rock, peering over precipitous ledges into the furious foaming 
 torrent of the Braulio, a thousand feet below — the vast and awful 
 torrent-furrowed precipices of Monte Braulio rising from the impetuous 
 river's bed bluff, sheer, and sharp into the bright blue sky. 
 
 " Brook and road 
 Were fellow-travellers in this gloomy pass, 
 And with them did we journey several hours 
 At a slow step. The immeasurable height 
 Of woods decaying, never to be decayed, 
 The stationary blast of water-falls, 
 And in the narrow rent, at every turn, 
 Wmds thwarting winds, bewildered and forlorn, 
 The torrents shooting from the clear blue sky, 
 The rocks that muttered close upon our ears, 
 Black drizzling crags that spake by the wayside 
 As if a voice were in them, the sick sight 
 And giddy prospect of the raving stream, 
 The unfettered clouds and region of the heavens, 
 Tumult and peace, the darkness and the light, 
 Were all like workings of one mind, the features 
 Of the same face, blossoms upon one tree, 
 Characters of that great Apocalypse, 
 The types and symbols of Eternity, 
 Of first, and last, and midst, and without end." 
 
 Wordsworth. 
 
 The first Cantoniere is passed, a rambling and deserted-looking place, 
 and the second, which the Austrians left in ruins and has never been re- 
 built. It is getting colder and colder as we reach the road-makers' huts; 
 and here we arrive at a singular portion of our journey, called the Sponda- 
 lunga, or long wall. We are at the foot of a wide-extended, almost 
 
 1 
 
The Stelvio Pass. ioi 
 
 regular inclined plane, free from rocks and ravines, across whose bleak 
 and barren face the road is cut in manifold long zigzags, of which from a 
 point about half-way up we can count the nineteen acute angles. The 
 coach occupies a considerable time in traversing all this long series of 
 sides of isosceles triangles, while we steeply and laboriously climb up 
 their bases on one side of the sloping plane, covering it in half the time 
 that the horses take. The loose and broken soil is here richly carpeted 
 with the beautiful Dryas octopetala, pretty common in altitudes over 6,000 
 feet. In the late autumn, the higher slopes are glowing with great crim- 
 son patches of^ I think. Rhododendron intermedium ; but it had long been 
 out of flower, and I may be mistaken. Looking far away down the gorge 
 by which we came up, we see the black mouths of the seven tunnels, 
 and their grim-looking port-holes, looking very much like the batteries 
 in the rock of Gibraltar, or the pierced galleries of the Lake of Lucerne. 
 
 On the Spondalunga took place a severe engagement between the 
 Austrian and the Garibaldian troops on July loth, 1859. The former, 
 mostly hardy Tyrolese jagers from Meran, had encamped for two nights 
 on the snowy steeps of Monte Cristallo, with no better covering than 
 their woollen rugs. Advancing down the pass, on reaching the long zig- 
 zags they could see the Italian leaders emerging from the tunnels, and 
 planted their guns in the long upper reaches of the road. The Italians 
 from below fired disadvantageously at long range the whole day, but 
 their shot fell far short, and they lost about sixty men, while their 
 enemy's loss was but one or two. There was very little fighting at close 
 quarters.'^ But it was after all a wasted battle, as the armistice had 
 been concluded the day before, though the news of it had not yet reached 
 the opposing forces. 
 
 Having cleared these great zigzagged slopes, we arrive in a cold and 
 barren region, where wide-extending fields piebald with snow begin to 
 appear, and reach a desolate table-land, bordered by the dull glaucous 
 green slopes below Piz Umbrail on the left, and the long and graceful 
 gently-descending sweeps of Monte Cristallo on the right, with its more 
 
 * This information was communicated to me by the Rev. Father Paul, a Benedictine of 
 Meran, who was present as chaplain to a detachment consisting of students from the gymnasium 
 and of peasants and Tyrolese jagers. 
 
102 Holiday Studies. 
 
 abrupt and broken glacier front. This beautiful mountain remains an 
 object of remarkable grace and loveliness all the remaining way to the 
 summit, its delicately outlined cones cleaving the pale blue sky at a 
 wide angle which combines consummate loveliness with the most majestic 
 splendour. 
 
 But there is no beauty in the uninteresting foreground. Here all is 
 bleak and barren. Besides the rank grass, hardly any signs of vegetation 
 are to be seen, except the great ragged thorny thistles {Cirsiiim lanceo- 
 latum) scattered in lonely clumps about the stony banks. In this valley 
 of desolation is the third Cantoniere, affording rude shelter and coarse 
 refreshment. A little way further on is the little chapel of Santa Maria, 
 with the priest's poor abode at its side. Even near the summit of the 
 bleak and once terrible Stelvio, a poor but sufficient chapel and its 
 resident priest ! Would it be inconsistent with the principles of the 
 Reformed Faith to provide the means of grace everywJiere, where the 
 three or four might be gathered together in answer to whose prayers the 
 promised blessing would descend t 
 
 Up higher we see the yet distant white walls of the better known and 
 more frequented fourth Cantoniere of Santa Maria, quite close to the 
 Swiss frontier, where we spent one bitter cold night in the middle of 
 September. The visitors to the Ortler Spitze, and to Piz Umbrail 
 especially, have all enjoyed the rude but hearty hospitality of the fourth 
 Cantoniere, and the leathery tasteless cakes called bread, and rejoiced 
 perhaps in the refreshing, invigorating chill of winter in the midst of the 
 summer heat which fiercely beats on the green valleys below. 
 
 I can say nothing of Piz Umbrail except at second-hand. We had 
 intended to ascend it, no difficult matter even for elderly folks ; but there 
 was a bitter and violent cold wind blowing, to be encountered only by 
 limbs and lungs of youthful vigour. All that we saw therefore of this 
 famous spectacular ridge was its long, black, sharply serrated edge; and 
 instead, we resolved to continue our walk to the summit of the pass, a 
 distance of two miles further by the road, and an ascent of i,ooo feet. 
 Here the zigzags are at their widest and their sharpest, and we found 
 snow-drifts by the road-side ten feet deep, the road frozen hard, and long 
 icicles hanging from the rocks. The short cuts are over the rockiest, 
 
 \ 
 
The Stelvio Pass. 103 
 
 roughest ground in the whole ascent ; but we are pleased to find the 
 shaggy, purple Ranunculus glacialis peeping out beside us through the 
 snow. Many rare Alpine plants are to be found here by those who may 
 have time to look for them. The red rocks of the Rothli Spitze over- 
 hang the left of the road, and the lovely prolonged stretches of the snow 
 plains of Cristallo and Scorluzzo still crown the southern horizon with 
 beauty unspeakable. These are the lofty Alpine heights where it never 
 rains, and all the moisture from above descends either as finely-powdered 
 snow, drifting before the wild winds, or in quieter weather, crystallising in 
 six-rayed stars. Nor does the snow here ever melt. It only evaporates, 
 or, partially melting, goes to form the mighty glacier. " Das ist alter Eis," 
 said a guide to me, to distinguish the glacier from the adjacent snow. 
 
 At last we stand upon the summit, having attained our object easily, 
 and without any danger whatever, which I mention, simply because, 
 in common with many other inexperienced mountaineers, we had enter- 
 tained vague ideas as if the magnificent Stelvio route was now as it was 
 in times past, and not a beautiful summer excursion to be enjoyed on 
 foot, and without the slighest necessity for a guide. 
 
 The wind is keen and cutting as we reach the square, grey, granite 
 monument which crowns the summit, inscribed with the words " Tirol," 
 " Lombardo," and which marks the boundary of the Austrian and the 
 Italian dominions. There are not a dozen yards of level ground here. 
 As soon as you have done ascending, if you are going on, you must 
 begin to descend. Here stands the highest inhabited house in Europe, 
 occupied by a road surveyor. But on this particular occasion when we 
 paused to take in the inexpressible grandeur of the prospect on the 
 Tyrolese side, we were not going on, but sat down in a sheltered nook 
 on Austrian ground to try to photograph the scene in our memories. 
 
 Before us lies spread a vast circuit of towering, snow-crowned Alps, 
 the monarch of them all — the imperial Ortler, 12,814 ^^et high, and the 
 highest mountain in Germany — standing out loftily above the inferior, 
 yet scarcely less stately, dominations. The Ortler is often spoken of as 
 a snowy dome. But this description is scarcely accurate, the globular 
 summit being broken by many black and jagged ridges. The range is 
 broken with frowning, beetling crags, scored transversely with huge 
 
I04 Holiday Studies. 
 
 ledges of rock supporting immensely deep masses of snow and ice. 
 Enormous buttresses of bare, black rock separate from each other three 
 steeply-precipitous ice-torrents, of a shining steel blue, in places glowing 
 with the very peculiar luminous glow-worm glimmerings of green of which 
 I could not explain the origin. These ice-torrents hang suspended motion- 
 less on the vast perpendicular flanks of the Ortler and the Madatsch, un- 
 utterably sublime and beautiful, with quite enough of the terrible to send 
 a thrill of awe through the innermost soul of the beholder. They rise 
 before us, wall above wall, terrace upon terrace, irregular and broken, 
 with softer and with deeper shades of green, like the unfathomable sea, or 
 blue like the vault of heaven, and seeming, in their vertical descent, as if 
 they had been arrested in mid-career ; but at times break off with a loud 
 roar, descending in ten thousand fragments into the moraines beneath. 
 
 The glaciers appear to be slowly melting below under the summer 
 heat, but faster than they can be reinforced from above by accretions 
 of winter snow and ice; and it is commonly remarked that the glaciers 
 everywhere seem to be receding year by year. There runs the dark 
 irregular line which shows where the ice is abruptly broken off, and where 
 the grey glacier-torrent streams forth from beneath its icy caverns, and 
 around its edges, with the incessant roar of multitudinous waters, making 
 up in number what they lack in bulk. If we want to know what the 
 Alps once were, we have only to see what Greenland and Labrador are 
 now. The slow revolutions which are for ever changing the face of our 
 planet, are all illustrated in some part or another of the manifold pages 
 of the book of Nature. 
 
 A very charming but peculiar feature of the scene was the constant 
 swirling of powdery snow over all the distant mountain summits, lifted 
 up like a light gauzy veil into the transparent blue by the violent action 
 of the eddying wind. Drifting spicule of this fine snow-dust were blown 
 against our faces as we sat in our cosy nook ; and down the long slopes 
 of Monte Cristallo, the pure and down-like eddying wreaths of snow, all 
 in gentle motion, described the most beautiful figures imaginable. 
 
 Far, very far away, down in the valley, appear the green pastures 
 and the dark pine forests of Tyrol. But they do little to lessen the 
 sublime wildness of the Alpine scene. 
 
 1 
 
The Stelvio Pass. ' 105 
 
 The St. Gothard, the finest pass in Switzerland, is 6,936 feet high. 
 i he St. Bernard, the least interesting in point of scenery, perhaps the 
 most interesting from its associations, is 8,120; the Stelvio is 9,213, and 
 therefore more than a thousand feet higher than the highest carriage 
 road in Switzerland. 
 
 The extraordinary grandeur of the scene eastward from the summit 
 is deeply impressive, and most memorable. One asks oneself the 
 question, and not in vain, why a spectacle combining every character of 
 bleak and barren desolation, a wide, waste wilderness of huge precipices 
 and perilous glaciers, lapped one over another, should fill the mind above 
 all other sentiments with a true, pleasing sense of beauty. Upon a 
 couple of tippling, slow-witted Germans and the dull mechanical driver, 
 who, to our sorrow, were our sole companions driving up the pass, in our 
 third and last journey, the features of the scenery made no more im- 
 pression than Salisbury Plain would have made. Once a stolid being of 
 this description was my companion in a walk up my much-loved Duddon 
 valley, which he had never seen before. Bat as he seemed to take no 
 special notice of anything, I called his attention to the noble Walla- 
 barrow crag, one of the most imposing rocks in Great Britain. He 
 looked up without the faintest intimation of interest, and remarked, 
 " I think I have seen bigger ones abroad ! " 
 
 Cultivation and natural refinement are essential to the reception 
 into the mind of most of the higher feelings of our nature. But is the 
 world made for man alone, as its noblest creature? Are we, indeed, the 
 highest intelligences that people this earth .? And are the unnoticed 
 flowers of the wilderness, and the glittering gems of the secret mine, 
 made to delight none but human eyes which may never rest upon 
 them } Nay, but it is reasonable to believe, although from the nature of 
 the case it is incapable of proof, that millions of beings, superior to 
 ourselves, unseen, unheard, perhaps not unfelt, may people the air, 
 float in ether, enjoy the liquid lapse of the bubbling torrent, and inhabit 
 the woods, the mountains, the glaciers with an infinitely higher appre- 
 ciation of the wonders of creation than we purblind mortals enjoy even 
 at our best. Therefore I may be allowed to believe that the ice-torrents 
 of the Ortler, and the dark precipices that buttress its towering crags and 
 
io6 Holiday Studies. 
 
 pinnacles, and the celestial beryl-like and azure spaces that seem to float 
 over some of the crevasses, are beheld by more than ourselves, with a 
 higher appreciation, and form a majestic temple wherein God is daily 
 and hourly worshipped with hymns of praise, of which we may, if we are 
 devout believers, catch some faint echoes. 
 
 Let us descend from this cold eminence. Take away the road with 
 'its fifty zigzags to Trafoi, " using up " eleven miles and covering just six, 
 and I cannot see how we should get down alive at all, the descent being 
 excessively steep, and forming an angle with the horizon, I should say, 
 of 40*^, while 35° is the utmost limit at which it is possible to climb on 
 hands and knees, or to descend without support. The grand road, how- 
 ever, has been constructed with such an infinity of sharp zigzags, lapping 
 so closely together, taking every advantage afforded by the configuration 
 of the ground, that carriages, without locking a single wheel, can bowl 
 all the way down merrily at a cheerful trot. So at least we saw our own 
 conveyance going down for a long while after we had gladly taken our 
 leave of it. Such is the road 'just above the spot from which Tourville, 
 in 1876, threw down his unhappy wife into the torrent below, of which the 
 exact spot is marked by a black and white cross by the roadside.* 
 
 Very few short cuts are available, and we find it far better to follow 
 the windings, except in three or four places. But these windings become 
 very tedious on arriving near Trafoi, our destination for the next two 
 nights, which, though we can see the pretty little nestling Alpine village 
 only half a mile off, far below us, we shall not be able to reach without 
 walking from side to side for two or three miles. We were much struck 
 with the diff'erence in the vegetation in descending on the Tyrolese side, 
 which was both more varied and more abundant. 
 
 During the whole descent the towering masses of the Ortler and the 
 Madatsch ranges bound the view on our right. The left side attracts no 
 attention by picturesque beauty, but looks down upon us sternly and 
 forbiddingly. My botanical case fills rapidly here in the diff"erent flora 
 
 * This abominable wretch was tried at Botzen, found guilty, and, by the special clemency of 
 the Emperor, sentenced to fifteen years' penal servitude ! Before his committal he had the 
 remains of his victim buried in the Y''[0\.e:ii2Sit Friedehof oi Meran, and a pompous monument 
 erected over them. I have just lately seen that he has died in a penitentiary. 
 
 1 
 
The Stelvio Pass. 107 
 
 of the eastern side of the Stelvio, and I pass the number of 150 species 
 new to me, found, examined, and named, unknown or rare as indigenous 
 to England. As we descend past Franzenshohe and the level of 7,000 
 feet, about half-way down we meet, with a feeling of comfort, a warmer 
 temperature, and pursue our interesting way through the pine forests, 
 reaching valleys carpeted with a richer verdure and enamelled with 
 gayer flowers. And so we reach Trafoi, having descended nearly 4,000 
 feet, or a distance of eleven miles by road, and about six in a direct 
 line. Here we find our luggage arrived in perfect safety, and the 
 custom-house officer not in the least disposed to trouble us or himself 
 to open our trunks. He takes my word for it, with a good-natured 
 smile, that I have nothing to declare, and continues to smoke his pipe 
 in peace undisturbed. The comfort of the inn (chiefly comfortable, 
 however, to optimists like ourselves), and the loveliness of the situation, 
 dispose us to stay two or three days, as there is no particular hurry to reach 
 Meran. True, the wash-basins are like pie-dishes ; the towels like 
 pocket-handkerchiefs ; and the bread like chamois leather ; but we have 
 bid farewell on crossing the Stelvio to the hard pillows of Italy. Our 
 bedroom commands most magnificent views, and the landlady, Frau 
 Ortler, " of that ilk," and the maidens are all good-tempered. 
 
 No landscape can be more picturesque than that in which the small 
 village of Trafoi is situated. We saw it all to perfection from our windows, 
 under a rather novel aspect, at two in the morning, under the bright 
 silvery light of the full moon, and again just before sunrise. The best 
 bedroom has four windows looking out, two over the Ortler, two over 
 the lower ranges. At 2 a.m. the cold pale rays of moonlight flood the 
 gleaming glaciers and their fretted edges with a sheen like that of 
 molten silver. Between the great glaciers or Ferners of the Madatsch, 
 the Ortler, and the Trafoier Ferner, bright almost as day, rise grim and 
 terrible the vast black buttresses of rock, and, dark chief of all, the 
 Madatsch Spitze, which I am surprised to learn has been conquered by 
 the hardy Alpine climbers, rising sharply to the height of the glaciers, 
 and with only one or two ledges apparent at this distance. A dark and 
 pinnacled tower, it abruptly divides two great ice cataracts. Before sun- 
 rise we were up again, to marvel in a kind of ecstacy at the same view 
 
io8 Holiday Studies. 
 
 glorified and sublimed by the rising majesty of the sun. First one fine 
 point of snow kindled a glowing beacon light, then another burst into a 
 ruddy flame. Then another, and another pointed summit assumed the 
 radiant rosy light of morning. And the sunlight stole softly and slowly 
 down from the pure snowy peaks, and the bluish greys and greens 
 of the glaciers. And the virgin robes of spotless snow spread out and 
 clothe the Alpine summits with that transcendent light which the finest 
 artists decline to imitate on canvas ; for it is a light, the splendour of 
 which we could not have imagined from description or from picture, had 
 we never seen it with our own eyes. And now at length that purest light 
 reaches the rocky fragments that strew the upper moraine ; and the dark 
 forests of pine exchange their sombre mantle of night for the richer hues 
 of the morning radiance, until the crowded pointed spires and the densely 
 serried columns of the thousands of majestic pines stood revealed in 
 the glowing light of a glorious September sun. 
 
 How wonderfully the great Creator of the universe has combined and 
 interwoven inexplicable beauty with every feature of natural scenery ; 
 or, which is the same thing, how admirably has He constructed the 
 human mind with that perception of beauty which enables it to view the 
 scenes of nature with deep emotion, and to admire profoundly even 
 where it fails in every attempt to analyse and to explain. Mr. Ruskin 
 has well pointed out the singular fitness of the pine, in respect of 
 physical beauty, for the places it inhabits by preference. Where barren 
 mountains and walls of precipice, cut by deep ravines, and strewn with 
 mighty fragments and boulders, would present to the eye only disorder 
 and desolation ; where all the lines are broken and disjointed, and every 
 contour rugged and disfigured, there, nestling in the shady hollows, 
 clothing the steep sides with the robes of dignity, crowning the sky- 
 line with a symmetrical fringe of beauty, rise the crowded pines, straight, 
 formal, angular, each as accurately shaped, and all as exactly alike, as 
 their own beautiful cones, each, except under violence or pressure, point- 
 ing with its acute topmost shoots with accuracy and precision to the 
 zenith. No matter how or why, this harmonious combination of the 
 rude and uncomformable with the straight and the formal is certainly 
 agreeable to our perception of the beautiful, as often sharp contrasts are 
 
 \ 
 
The Stelvio Pass. 109 
 
 pleasing to the ear in music. And the curhng vine that creeps so 
 tenderly around the walls and shelters the roof of the cottage home, and 
 embowers the garden walk, and overarches the village roads in the 
 Tyrol, is not more grateful to the eye than these dense dark spaces, 
 among which shoot up the straight and crowded columns, bare and 
 leafless, roofed in by the deep green verdure, above which rise the massed 
 and serrated ridges of the sharply-pointed summits of the pine forest. 
 
 For this reason I conceive the slender church spire to be a far 
 more pleasing object amidst mountain scenery than a short low tower, 
 while the eye is craving for contrast, and not for imitation. 
 
 No one comes to Trafoi that has a couple of hours to spare without 
 visiting the famous " Three floly Springs," which are reached by a very 
 pleasant walk over green meadows, and over the soft yielding turf of 
 the forest walks. Here the pines are not, as in the Engadine, dead or 
 dying by thousands, standing up gaunt and grey, and hung with long 
 dishevelled fringes of rugged grey mosses. For here every tree is fresh, 
 strong, and flourishing. On our way we gather with great admiration 
 the first specimens we have seen of that noblest of all the beautiful tribe 
 of Gentians, the G. asclepiadea, full two feet high, and hung with bells 
 of rich deep purple. 
 
 Here, too, as in our descent, we observe the singularly beautiful 
 optical phenomenon of a fixed, pale, and delicate faint opal light of the 
 subtlest tenderness, apparently as if a sheet of pale blue glass were hung 
 suspended over the ice between the glacier and the spectator. This 
 beautiful vision seemed to hover at a slight distance from the surface, 
 and to hang immovable over particular spots. 
 
 There can be no doubt about the great beauty of the spot chosen by 
 the devout Tyrolese for the erection of the pretty little pilgrimage church 
 of the " Drei Heilige Brunnen," though a candid mind, uninformed in 
 the deep principles which lead to the formation of " pious beliefs," 
 would smile sceptically at the ingenious contrivance which makes it 
 appear to the eyes of the simple as if spiritual powers had actually 
 fixed here the seat of benevolent wonder-working agencies. At the 
 green and wooded base of the Ortler range, just over the bank of the 
 glacier river, gush out perpetually great torrents of the purest, coldest 
 
no Holiday Studies. 
 
 spring water, welling out in sparkling, crystal streams, from mossy banks 
 in a score of places. It is a winter resort of bears, from whose frequent 
 visits a grassy level above the springs is called the Baren-boden or 
 bears' play-ground. Where the gushing waters flow in fullest, a rough 
 wooden shed is erected, within which three nearly life-sized figures are 
 erected of our Lord, the Virgin Mary, and St. John, set in a straight line 
 against the wall. Secret pipes, unsuspected by the pious Tyrolese, 
 are passed up through the bodies of the figures, issuing out from the 
 heart of each by an iron spout, and sending forth fresh impetuous 
 streams, which pour themselves away into three holes in the wooden 
 floor, and pass on into the river. On the 29th September, pilgrimages 
 are made to this spot from all the surrounding villages and Sennhiitte, 
 and services held in the picturesque church at its side. A small house is 
 built close by for the accommodation of pilgrims. 
 
 On our return we visit the miniature church of Trafoi, where scarcely 
 thirty worshippers could gather together. Its walls are covered with 
 devotional pictures and memorials, the most prominent representing a 
 sick man lying upon a bed, at the foot of which stand three gentlemen in 
 the habits of the seventeenth century : one in a scarlet coat, with cocked 
 hat, another in green, the other in white with a green cap. The legend 
 in old German relates how this poor man, having attempted to cross the 
 Stilfserjoch in mid-winter, had been nearly frozen to death, but had been 
 left crippled with the loss of both his feet. In answer to his constant 
 callings upon the saints, those three persons looking so much like 
 courtiers of the seventeenth century, but who were in reality angels sent 
 from heaven in answer to his prayers, came and announced to him his 
 complete recovery, which took place forthwith. If unbelievers ask in- 
 convenient questions, it is sufficient to reply that it is a " pious opinion," 
 which, of course, makes it all true. I have heard it said : " All this 
 may seem very absurd ; but the faith is beautiful ! " 
 
 Another large rude picture, supposed to represent the last judgment, 
 shows us the Judge sitting upon the throne, the Virgin (without the 
 Child) interceding, and the mouth of hell, like a vast dragon's throat 
 belching out fire and flames, devouring the wicked. 
 
 We divided the distance of forty miles from Trafoi to Meran into 
 
The Stelvio Pass. hi 
 
 two stages: by sleeping one night at Eyrs (Schlanders would have been 
 far nicer), after walking to it thirteen miles ; then driving to Naturns 
 in the Stell-wagen, and walking the remaining nine to Meran. Of these 
 walks I will say no more than that from Trafoi to Prad, eleven miles, 
 was a regular descent of 2,000 feet down a beautiful valley into which 
 debouches the fine lateral valley of the Suldenthal. High above the 
 road, hanging like an eagle's eyrie upon the rocky mountain side, stands 
 the Alpine village of Stilfs, which gives its name to the mighty pass. 
 At Prad the descent ceases entirely ; but the Stelvio road proper is con- 
 tinued three miles further, until it reaches the bridge over the Adige.* 
 
 And now we are in the broad and fertile valley of the Vintschgau. 
 At this point the valley to the left runs up by Mais and Nauders to the 
 lower Engadine ; and to the right the same valley of the Adige — the 
 Etschthal — carries us through Eyrs, Schlanders, and Naturns to Meran, 
 our abode for the next nine months, in a most rich; and calm, and lovely 
 valley, almost reminding one of the Poet Laureate's 
 
 " island valley of Avilion ; 
 Where falls not hail, or rain, or any snow, 
 Nor ever wind blows loudly ; but it lies 
 Deep meadowed, happy, fair with orchard lawns, 
 And bowery hollows crown 'd with summer sea." 
 
 MORTE D' Arthur. 
 
 Just as I was laying down the last corrected sheets of this little 
 work (in all probability my last) I happened to be also arriving at the 
 closing pages of the finest of Charles Dickens' inimitable works of 
 fiction, his own favourite, " David Copperfield," and I felt moved to 
 deep emotion in recognising in his description of a spot not unlike 
 Trafoi the faithful expression of that reciprocity which is always found 
 between God's great Book of Nature and the pages of the responsive 
 heart of a true man. 
 
 " I was in Switzerland. I had come out of Italy, over one of the 
 
 * " Burmio ad Athesim," as the marble tablet records. 
 
112 Holiday Studies. 
 
 great passes of the Alps, and had wandered with a guide among the bye- 
 ways of the mountains. If these awful solitudes had spoken to my heart, 
 I had not heard their voice, or did not know that I had. I had found 
 sublimity and wonder in the dread heights and precipices, in the roaring 
 torrents, and the wastes of ice and snow ; but as yet they had taught me 
 nothing else. 
 
 " I came one evening before sunset down into a valley, where I was 
 to rest. In the course of my descent into it, by the winding track along 
 the mountain-side from which I saw it shining far below, I think some 
 long-unwonted sense of beauty and tranquillity, some softening influence 
 awakened by its peace, moved faintly in my heart. I remember pausing 
 once with a kind of sorrow that was not all oppressive, not quite despair- 
 ing. I remember almost hoping that some better change was possible 
 within me. 
 
 " I came into the valley as the evening sun was shining on the remote 
 heights of snow that closed it in like eternal clouds. The bases of the 
 mountains forming the gorge in which the little village lay were richly 
 green, and high above this gentle vegetation grew forests of dark fir, 
 cleaving the wintry snow-drift, bridge-like and stemming the avalanche. 
 Above these were range upon range of craggy steeps, grey rocks, bright 
 ice, and smooth verdure-specks of pasture, all gradually blending with 
 the crowning snow. Dotted here and there in the mountain's side, each 
 tiny dot a home, were lonely wooden cottages, so dwarfed by the tower- 
 ing heights that they appeared to be too small for toys. So did even 
 the clustered village in the valley, with its wooden bridge across the 
 stream, where the stream tumbled over broken rocks and roared away 
 among the trees. In the quiet air there was a sound of distant singing 
 — shepherd voices; but as one bright evening cloud floated midway 
 along the mountain's side I could almost have believed it came from 
 there, and was not earthly music. All at once, in this serenity, the 
 great voice of Nature's God spoke to me, and soothed me to lay down 
 my weary head upon the grass and weep as I had not wept yet, since 
 Dora died ! " 
 
 No word of comment of mine shall profane this most touching 
 passage. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Alpine scenery, 90, 104; by moonlight and 
 
 sunrise, 107, 109. 
 Andermatt old church (note), 87. 
 Angels' visits, 48. 
 Anglo-Saxon period, 15. 
 Anne, Countess of Dorset, Pembroke, and 
 
 Montgomery, 25, 31. 
 Aske's Pilgrimage, 20. 
 
 B. 
 
 Barden Tower, 19, 31. 
 Beauty, Sense of, 105, 108. 
 Beggary in Italy, 91. 
 Bible abroad, 84. 
 Birks Bridge, 54. 
 Black Combe, 40. 
 Bolton Abbey, 13. 
 
 Woods, 13. 
 
 Parish Church, 15. 
 
 foundation, 16. 
 
 great antiquity, 16. 
 
 Process of building, 17. 
 
 Western Tower, 17. 
 
 Rectory, 17. 
 
 ruined, 21. 
 
 estates, 27. 
 Bormio, 85, 90. 
 Botany, 60, 83, 99, 107, 109. 
 Braulio, River, 97. 
 Brook, Beautiful colours in, 59. 
 Broughton-in-Furness, 39, 74. 
 Browning quoted, 31. 
 
 Carr, Rev. W., 14. 
 Caterina, Santa, 90. 
 Cavendish, House of, 34. 
 
 ,, Lord Frederick, 34. 
 
 Cepina, beautiful iron gates, 86, 
 Chapels, Roman Catholic, 88, 89, loi 
 Clifford, Blackfaced, 17. 
 
 ,, Family of, 18. 
 
 ,, Shepherd Lord, 18. 
 
 ,, Henry, his wild life, 19. 
 
 ,, household establishment, 24. 
 Cockley Beck, 57. 
 Cottages in Duddon Valley, 60. 
 Countess Pillar, 27. 
 Craven, Lords of, their disputes, 20. 
 Cretinism, 92. 
 Cristallo, Monte, loi. 
 Cumberland, George, Earl of, 25. 
 
 D. 
 Deer Forests in Cumberland, 20. 
 
 „ Wild, 58. 
 Desolation, Valley of, 31. 
 Devonshire, Duke of, 27. 
 Dickens, Charles (quoted), iii. 
 Dolomite Mountain, 98. 
 Duddon, River, 53. 
 ,, Sonnets, 53. 
 
 Hall, 69. 
 ,, Woods, 69. "* 
 
 ,, Bridge and Sands, 75. 
 Dunnerdale Fells, 68. 
 
 E. 
 
 Education in Switzerland, 83. 
 
 Free, 82. 
 Elizabeth, Queen, 23. 
 Embsay, 16. 
 " Evening Voluntaries," 47. 
 
 " Faery Chasm,'' 
 Felsite Dike, 66. 
 
 55- 
 
114 
 
 Holiday Studies. 
 
 1 
 
 Garibaldians, 97, loi. 
 Glacier action, 71. 
 Glaciers, 104, 108. 
 
 Goat's Water and its curious rocks, 72. 
 Gowdrel Dub, 34, 56. 
 Grandson, Battle of, 79. 
 ,, Castle of, 80. 
 
 Grasmere, 43. 
 Grimke's, Mrs., cards, 82. 
 
 H. 
 
 Hailstorms in Switzerland, 84. 
 
 Hardknot Castle, 57. 
 
 Harter Fell, 54. 
 
 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 46. 
 
 Heber's Ghyll, 32. 
 
 Helvellyn, 60. 
 
 History, ancient and modern compared, 13. 
 
 ' Hole-in -the- Wall," 14. 
 
 Hospenthal, 89. 
 
 Human interest in scenery, 49. 
 
 I. 
 
 Invisible beings, 105. 
 
 L. 
 Lago di Scale, 97. 
 Loggan Beck, 69. 
 Lucerne, "glacier garden," 29. 
 
 M. 
 Mackereth, Sarah, the " Westmorland Girl, 
 
 41. 
 Madatsch Spitze, 106. 
 Meran, in. 
 Meschines, 15. 
 Mountain ash, Curious, 31. 
 
 ,, streams, 32. 
 
 ,, scenery, 60. 
 
 ,, roads, 96. 
 
 N. 
 
 Nature beautifying ruins, 33. 
 Neuchatel, Lake of, 79. 
 Norton, Richard, 22. 
 Nortons, Fall of the, 24. 
 " Nutbrown Maid," 20. 
 
 Ortler Spitze, 103. 
 
 Parkinson, Canon, 64. 
 Paul, Rev. Father, loi. 
 Passes, Alpine, 105. 
 Pestalozzi, 80. 
 
 Pines in Alpine scenery, 109. 
 Pious belief, 109. 
 Piz Umbrail, loi. 
 Posforth Ghyll, 31. 
 
 R. 
 
 Religion, Change of, at the Reformation, 21. 
 
 Rising in the North, 21. 
 
 Rock scenery, 33, 55. 
 
 Romilly, 15. 
 
 Ruskin quoted, 14, 72. 
 
 ,, his religion, 'jt,, 108. 
 Rutland, Young, 18. 
 
 Sarah Mackereth, the " Westmorland Girl,^' 
 
 41- 
 Seathwaite Church, 62. 
 
 ,, Tarn, 61. ' 
 
 September, best season for Lake District, 57. 
 "Shepherd Lord," 18. 
 Skipton Castle, 25. 
 
 ,, Lords of, their personal habits, 24. 
 Snow on Alps, 90, 104. 
 Spondalunga, 100. 
 Standard Hill, 24. 
 Stelvio Pass, 85, 95. 
 
 ,, Passage over, 96. 
 
 ,, Road, 95, 97. 
 
 ,, Summit, 103. 
 
 ,, Tunnels, 97- 
 Stepping stones, 65. 
 Strid, The, 15, 28. 
 Switzerland, education, 81. 
 
 ,, intemperance, 81. 
 
 T. 
 
 Temperance in England and Switzerland, 83. 
 Tennyson quoted, in. 
 
Index. 
 
 115 
 
 Three Holy Springs, 109. 
 
 ,, Shire Stones, 59. 
 Tourville the murderer, 106. 
 Trafoi, 106, 107, no. 
 Tresero, Monte, 90. 
 
 Ulpha, 67. 
 
 U. 
 
 V. 
 
 Valley of Desolation, 31. 
 Volcanic action, 71. 
 
 W. 
 Walker, Rev. Robert, " The Wonderful," 44, 
 63- 
 
 Wallabarrow Crag, 66. 
 Waterfalls in Stelvio Pass, 99. 
 Waterspout of 1826, 31. 
 Weathering of Rocks, 33. 
 Westmorland Girl, 39. 
 Wharfedale, 14. 
 
 ,, Scenery of, 29. 
 
 ,, trees and flowers, 29, 30, 31. 
 
 White Doe of Rylstone, 21. 
 Wordsworth, 42. 
 
 ,, quoted, /ai'i'z;//, 43. 
 
 Wrynose Gap, 54. 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yverdon, 80. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 Printed by Cassell & Company, Limited, La Belle Sauvage, London, E.C. 
 
Selections from Cassell ^ Compan/s Publications. 
 
 Abbeys and Churches of England and Wales, The: Descriptive, Historical, 
 
 Pictorial. 21s. 
 Adventure, The World of. Fully Illustrated. 9s. 
 After London ; or, Wild England. By Richard Jefferies. Cheap Edition. 
 
 3s. 6d. 
 Along Alaska's Great River. By Lieut. Schwatka. Illustrated. 12s. 6d. 
 American Academy Notes. Illustrated Art Notes upon the National Academy 
 
 of Design, 1889. 2s. 6d. 
 
 American Yachts and Yachting. Illustrated. 6s. 
 
 Animal Painting in Water Colours. With Eighteen Coloured Plates by 
 
 Frederick Tayler. 5s. 
 Arabian Nights Entertainments (CasseU's). With about 400 Illustrations. los. 6d. 
 Architectural Drawing. By Phen:6 Spiers. Illustrated. los. 6d. 
 Art, The Magazine of. Yearly Volume. With several hundred Engravings, and 
 
 Twelve Etchings, Photogravures, &c. Vol. for 1889, i6s. 
 Behind Time. By G. P. Lathrop. Illustrated. 2s. 6d. 
 Bismarck, Prince. By C. Lowe, M.A. Two Vols. Cheap Edition. 10s. 6d. 
 Black Arrow, The. A Tale of the Two Roses. By R. L. Stevenson. 5s. 
 British Ballads. 275 Original Illustrations. Two Vols. Cloth, 7s. 6d. each. 
 British Battles on Land and Sea. By James Grant. With about 600 
 
 Illustrations. Three Vols., 4to, ^i 7s. ; Library Edition, £i los. 
 British Battles, Recent. Illustrated. 4to, 9s. Library Edition, los. 
 British Empire, The. By Sir George Campbell. 3s. 
 British Museum, The Bible Student in the. By the Rev. J. G. Kitchin, M.A. 
 
 Feap. Svo, is. 
 
 Browning, An Introduction to the Study of. By Arthur Symons. 2s. 6d. 
 Butterflies and Moths, European. By W. F. Kirby. With 61 Coloured 
 
 Plates. Demy 410, 35s. 
 
 Canaries and Cage-Birds, The Illustrated Book of. By W. A. Blakston, 
 
 W. SwAYSLAND, and A. F. Wiener. With 56 Fac-simile Coloured Plates, 35s. 
 
 Cannibals and Convicts. By Julian Thomas ("The Vagabond"). Cheap 
 
 Edition, 5s. 
 
 Captain Trafalgar. By Westall and Laurie. Illustrated. 5s. 
 
 CasseU's FamUy Magazine. Yearly Vol. Illustrated. 9s. 
 
 Cathedral Churches of England and Wales. Descriptive, Historical, Pictorial. 
 
 Edition de luxe. Roxburgh, 42s. 
 Celebrities of the Century : Bemg a Dictionary of Men and Women of the 
 
 Nineteenth Century. 21s. ; roxburgh, 25s. 
 
 Changing Year, The. With Illustrations. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Chess Problem, The. With Illustrations by C. Planck and others. 7s. 6d. 
 Children of the Cold, The. By Lieut. Schwatka. 2s. 6d. 
 China Painting. By Florence Lewis. With Sixteen Coloured Plates, and a 
 selection of Wood Engravings. With full Instructions. 5s. 
 
 Choice Dishes at Small Cost. By A. G. Payne. Cheap Edition, is. 
 Christmas in the Olden Time. By Sir Walter Scott. With charming 
 
 Original Illustrations. 7s. 6d. 
 Cities Of the World. Four Vols. Illustrated. 7s. 6d. each. 
 Civil Service, Guide to Employment in the. New and Enlarged Edition. 3s. 6d, 
 Civil Service.— Guide to Female Employment in Government Offices. Cloth, is. 
 Clinical Manuals for Practitioners and Students of Medicine. {A List of 
 
 Volumes forwarded post free on application to the Fubhshers.) 
 
 Clothing, The Influence of, on Health. By Frederick Treves, F.R.C.S. 2s. 
 Cobden Club, Some Works published for the. {A Complete List post free on 
 
 application) : — 
 
Selections from Cassell & Company' s Publications. 
 
 Colour. <;> By Prof. A. H. Church. New and Enlarged Edition. 3s. 6d. 
 Columbus, Christopher, The Life and Voyages of. By Washington Irving. 
 
 Three Vols. 7s. fid. 
 
 Commerce, The Year Book of. Edited by Kenric B. Murray. 5s. 
 
 Commodore Junk. By G. Manville Fenn. 5s. 
 
 Cook Book, Catherine Owen's New. 4s. 
 
 Cookery, A Year's. By Phyllis Browne. Cloth gilt or oiled cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Cookery, Cassell's Dictionary of. Containing about Nine Thousand Recipes. 
 
 7s. fid. ; roxburgh, los. fid. 
 
 Cookery, Cassell's Shilling. £f>th Thousand, is. 
 
 Countries of the World, The. By Robert Brown, M.A., Ph.D., &c. Com- 
 plete in Six Vols., with about 750 Illustrations. 410, 7s. fid. each. 
 
 Cremation and Urn-Burial ; or, The Cemeteries of the Future. By W. 
 Robinson. With Plates and Illustrations, is. 
 
 Cromwell, Oliver : The Man and His Mission. By J. Allanson Picton, M. P. 
 
 Cheap Edition. With Steel Portrait. 5s. 
 Culmshire Folk. By the Author of "John Orlebar," &c. 3s. 6d. 
 Cyclopaedia, Cassell's Concise. With 12,000 subjects, brought down to the 
 
 latest date. With about fioo Illustrations, 15s. ; roxburgh, i8s. 
 Cyclopaedia, Cassell's Miniature. Containing 30,000 Subjects. Cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 Dairy Farming. By Prof. J. P. Sheldon. With 25 Fac-simile Coloured Plates, 
 
 and numerous Wood Engravings. Demy 4to, 21s. 
 Dead Man's Rock. A Romance. By Q. 53. 
 Dickens, Character Sketches from. First, Second, and Third Series. 
 
 With Six Original Drawings in each, by Frederick Barnard. In Portfolio, 21s. each. 
 
 Dog, Illustrated Book of the. By Vero Shaw, B.A. With 28 Coloured 
 
 Plates. Cloth bevelled, 355. ; half-morocco, 45s. 
 
 Dog Stories and Dog Lore. By Col. Thos. W. Knox. 6s. 
 
 Dog, The. #By Idstone. Illustrated. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Domestic Dictionary, The. An Encyclopaedia for the Household. Cloth, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Dore Gallery, The. With 250 Illustrations by Gustave DoRf . 4to, 42s. 
 
 Dora's Dante's Inferno. Illustrated by Gustave Dore. Popular Edition, 21s. 
 
 Dora's Dante's Purgatorio and Paradiso. Illustrated by Gustave DoRfi. 
 
 Popular Edition. 21s. 
 
 Dora's Fairy Tales Told Again. With 24 Full-page Engravings by DoRfi. 55. 
 Dora's Milton's Paradise Lost. Illustrated by Gustave DoRfe. 4to, 21s. 
 Earth, Our, and its Story. By Dr. Robert Brown, F.L.S. With Coloured 
 
 Plates and numerous Wood Engravings. Vols. I. and II. gs. each. 
 Edinburgh, Old and New, CasseU's. With 600 Illustrations. Three Vols., 
 
 gs. each ; library binding, ^i los. the set. 
 
 Egypt: Descriptive, Historical, and Picturesque. By Prof. G. Ebers. 
 
 Translated by Clara Bell, with Notes by Samuel Birch, LL.D., &c. Popular 
 
 Edition, in Two Vols., 42s. 
 "89." A Novel. By Edgar Henry. Cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 Electricity, Age of, from Amber Soul to Telephone. By Park Benjamin, 
 
 Ph.D. 7s. fid. 
 
 Electricity, Practical. By Prof. W. E. Ayrton. Illustrated. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Encyclopaedic Dictionary, The. A New and Original Work of Reference to all 
 the Words in the English Language. Complete in Fourteen Divisional Vols., los. fid. 
 each ; or Seven Vols., half-morocco, 21s. each ; half-russia, 25s. each. 
 
 Engineering, Triumphs of. By Henry Frith. With Eight Full-page Illus- 
 trations, ss. 
 
 England, Cassell's Illustrated History of. With 2,000 Illustrations. Ten 
 
 Vols.. 4to, gs. each. New and Revised Edition. Vols. I., II., and III., gs. each. 
 English History, The Dictionary of. Cheap Edition, los. 6d. 
 English Literature, Library o£ By Prof. Henry Morley. Complete in 5 
 ;ols., 7s. fid. each. 
 
 Vol.** I. — Shorter English Poems. 
 Vol. II. — Illustrations of English 
 
 Religion. 
 Vol. III. — English Plays. 
 
 Vol. IV. — Shorter Works in English 
 
 Prose. 
 Vol. V. - Sketches of Longer Works in 
 
 English Verse and Prosb. 
 
 English Literature, Motley's First Sketch of. Revised Edition, 7s. 6d. 
 English Literature, The Dictionary of. By W. Davenport Adams. Cheap 
 
 Edition, 7s. fid. ; roxburgh, los. fid. 
 
Selections from Cassell <& Company's Publications. 
 
 English Literature, The Story of. By Anna Buckland. New and Cheap 
 
 Edition. 3s. fid. 
 English Writers. An attempt towards a History of English Literature. By 
 
 Henry Morley, LL.D., Professor of English Literature, University College, 
 
 London. Vols. 1., IL, IIL, IV., and V., 5s. each. 
 ^sop's Fatles. With about 150 Illustrations by E. Griset. Cheap Edition, 
 
 cloth, 3s. fid. ; bevelled boards, gilt edges, 5s. 
 
 Etching : Its Technical Processes, with Remarks on Collections and Collecting. 
 
 By S. K. KoEHLER. Illustrated with 30 Full-page Plates. Price £i, 4s. 
 
 Etiquette of Good Society, is. ; cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 Eye, Ear, rud Throat, The Management of the. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Family Physician, The. By Eminent Physicians and Surgeons. New and 
 
 Revised Edition. Cloth, 21s. ; roxburgh, 25s. 
 Fenn, G. Manville, Works by. Popular Editions. Boards, 2s. each ; or cloth, 
 
 2S. 6d. 
 Duteh tlie Diver; or, a TJan's Mistake. I Poverty Corner. 
 
 My Patients. The Vicar's People. I j f-, .^ ^ 
 
 The Parson o' Dumford. I Sweet Mace. J '" ^'°"' '"">'■ 
 
 Ferns, European. By James Britten, F.L.S. With 30 Fac-simile Coloured 
 Plates by D. Blair, F.L.S. 21s. 
 
 .Field Naturalist's Handbook, The. By Rev. J. G. Wood & Theodore Wood. 5s. 
 Figuier's Popular Scientific Works. With Several Hundred Illustrations in 
 each. 3s. fid. each. 
 The Human Race. I The Ocean 'World. 
 
 World Before the Deluge. The Vegetable W^orld. 
 
 Reptiles and Birds. I The Insect "World. 
 
 MammaUa. 
 Figure Painting in Water Colours. With 16 Coloured Plates by Blanche 
 
 MacArthur and Jennie Moore. With full Instructions. 7s. fid. 
 Fine-Art Library, The. Edited by John Sparkes, Principal of the South 
 Kensington Art Schools. Each Book contains about 100 Illustrations. 55. each. 
 
 The Education of the Artist. By Ernest 
 Chesneau. Translated by Clara Bell. Non- 
 illustrated. 
 
 Tapestry. By Eugine Mtintz. Translated by 
 
 Miss L. J. Davis. 
 Engraving. By Le Vicomte Henri Delaborde. 
 
 Translated by R. A. M. Stevenson. 
 The English School of Painting. By E. 
 
 Chesneau. Translated by L. N. Etherington. 
 
 With an Introduction by Prof. Ruskin. 
 The Plemish School of Painting. By A. J. 
 
 Wauters. Translated by Mrs. Henry Rossel. 
 
 Greek Archaeology. By Maxime CoUignon. 
 
 Translated by Dr. J. H. Wright. 
 Artistic Anatomy. By Prof. Duval. Translated 
 
 by F. E. Fenton. 
 The Dutch School of Painting. By Henry 
 
 Havard. Translated by G. Powell. 
 
 Flora's Feast : a Masque of Flowers. With Coloured Designs by Walter 
 
 Crane. 5s. 
 Flower Painting, Elementary. With Eight Coloured Plates. 3s. 
 Flower Painting in Water Colours. With Coloured Plates. First and Second 
 
 Flower Painting in Water Colours. First and Second Series. With 20 Fac- 
 simile Coloured Plates in each by F. E. Hulme, F.L.S., F.S.A. With Instructions 
 by the Artist. Interleaved. 5s. each. ,.,,.,„, j™ . 
 
 Flowers, and How to Paint Them. By Maud Naftel. With Coloured Plates. 5s. 
 
 Forging of the Anchor, The. A Poem. By Sir Samuel Ferguson, LL.D. 
 
 With 20 Original Illustrations. Gilt edges, ss. rr ,- o ir d c 
 
 Fossil Reptiles, A History of British. By Sir Richard Owen. K.C.B., F.R.S., 
 
 &c. With 268 Plates. In Four Vols., ;^i2 12s. 
 France as It Is. By Andre Lebon and Paul Pelet. With Three Maps. 
 Crown 8vo, cloth, 7s. fid. tir-.i. ^ _ th..., 
 
 Franco-German War, CasseU's History of the. Two Vols. With 500 Illus- 
 
 trations. gs. each. „„,tt^<^ -r'-oo /-i. j. 
 
 Fresh-Water Fishes of Europe, The. By Prof. H. G. Seeley, F.R.S. Cheap 
 
 Garden Flowers, Familiar. By Shirley Hibberd. With Coloured Plates by 
 
 F E. Hulme, F.L.S. Complete in Five Series. Cloth gilt, 12s. fid. each. 
 Gardening, CasseU's Popular. Illustrated. Complete in 4 Vols., 5s. each. 
 Geometrical Drawing for Army Candidates. By H. T. Lillby, M.A. as. 
 Geometry, First Elements of Experimental. By Paul Bert. is. 6d. 
 Geometry, Practical Solid. By Major Ross. 2s. 
 Germany, Emperor William of. By Archibald Forbes. 3s. 6d. 
 Gladstone, Life of the Et. Hon. W.E, By G, Barnett Smith. With Portrait. 3s. 6d 
 
Selections frofn Cassell <fc Company's Publications. 
 
 Oleanings irom Popular Authors. Two Vols. With Original Illustrations, 
 c^ 4to, gs. each. Two Vols, in One, 15s. 
 
 Great Northern Railway, The Oflcial Illustrated Guide to the. is. ; cloth, 2s. 
 Great Painters of Christendom, The, trom Cimahue to Wilkie. By John 
 
 Forbes-Robertson. Illustrated throughout. Po/>uiar Edition, c\ot\i g\\t., 12s. 6d. 
 
 Great Western Railway, The Official Illustrated Guide to the. New and 
 
 Rrvised Edition, is. ; cloth, as. 
 Gulliver's Travels. With 88 Engravings by Morten. Cheap Edition. Cloth, 
 
 3s. 6d. ; cloth gilt, 5s. 
 Gum Boughs and Wattle Bloom. By Donald Macdonald. 5s. 
 Gun and its Development, The. By W. W. Greener. Illustrated. los. 6d. 
 Guns, Modern Shot. By W. W. Greener. Illustrated. 5s. 
 Gunmaker of Moscow, The. A Novel. By Sylvanus Cobb, Junr. Cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 Health at School. By Clement Dukes, M.D., B.S. 7s. 6d. [burgh, 25s. 
 
 Health, The Book of. By F;iunent Physicians and Surgeons. Cloth, 21s. ; rox- 
 Health, The Influence of Clothing on. By F. Treves, F. R.C.S. 2s. 
 Heavens, The Story of the. By Sir Robert Stawell Ball, LL.D., F.R.S., 
 
 Royal Astronomer of Ireland. Coloured Plates and Wood Engravings, ^is. 6d. 
 
 Heroes of Britain in Peace and War. In Two Vols., with 300 Original Illus- 
 trations. 5s. each ; or One Vol., library binding, los. 6d. 
 Holy Land and the Bible, The. By the Rev. Cunningham Geikie, D.D. 
 
 With Map. Two Vols. 24s. 
 Homes, Our, and How to Make them Healthy. By Eminent Authorities. 
 
 Illustrated. 15s. ; roxburgh, i8s. 
 Horse, The Book of the. By Samuel Sidney. With 28 Fac-simile Coloured 
 
 Plates. Demy 4to, 35s. ; half-morocco, £1 5s. 
 Household, Cassell's Book of the, Illustrated. Vol. I. ss. 
 Household Guide, Cassell's. With Illustrations and Coloured Plates. New and 
 
 Revised Edition, complete in Four Vols., 20s. 
 
 How Dante Climbed the Mountain. By Rose Emily Selfe. With Eight 
 
 Full-page Engravings by Gustave Dor6. 2s. 
 How Women may Earn a Living. By Mercy Grogan. Cheap Edition. 6d. 
 India, Cassell's History of. By James Grant. With 400 Illustrations. 15s. 
 In-door Amusements, Card Games, and Fireside Fun, Cassell's. 3s. 6d. 
 Industrial Remuneration Conference. The Report of. 2s. 6d. 
 Insect Variety : its Propagation and Distribution. By A. H. Swinton. 7s. 6d. 
 Irish Parliament, A Miniature History of the. By J. C. Haslam. 3d. 
 Irish Parliament, The: What it Was, and What it Did. By J. G. Swift 
 
 McNeill, M.A., M.P. is. 
 Irish Question, The Speaker's Hand-book on the. By an Irish Liberal, is. 
 Irish Union, The : Before and After. By A. K. Connell, M.A. 2s. 6d. 
 John Parmelee's Curse. By Julian Hawthorne. 2s. 6d. 
 Karmel the Scout. A Novel. By Sylvanus Cobb, Junr. Cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 Kennel Guide, Practical By Dr. Gordon Stables. Illustrated. Cheap Edition, is. 
 Khiva, A Ride to. By Col. Fred Burnaby. is. 6d. 
 Kidnapped. By R. L. Stevenson. Illustrated Edition. 5s. 
 King Solomon's Mines. By H. Rider Haggard. Illustrated Edition. 55. 
 Ladies' Physician, The. By a London Physician. 6s. 
 Lady Biddy Fane, The Admirable. By Frank Barrett. Popular Edition, 
 
 crown 8vo, 5s. ; Three Vols , Cloth, 31s. 6d. 
 
 Landscape Painting in Oils, A Course of Lessons in. By A. F. Grace. 
 
 With Nine Reproductions in Colour. Cheap Edition, 25s. 
 
 Law, How to Avoid. By A. J. Williams, M.P. Cheap Edition, is. 
 
 Laws of Every Day Life, The. By H. O. Arnold-Forster. is. 6d. Presen- 
 tation Edition. 3s. 6g. ^ , , t,, 
 
 Legends for Lionel By Walter Crane. Coloured Illustrations. 5s. 
 
 Letts's Diaries and other Time-saving Publications are now published exclu- 
 sively by Cassell & Company. (AList sent tost free on afiplicaiion.) 
 
 Life of Henry Richard, M.P. By Charles Miall. With Portrait. 7s. 6d 
 
Selections from Cassell & Company's Publications. 
 Local Government In England and Germany. By the Rt. Hon. Sir Robert 
 
 MORIKR, G.C.B., &C. IS. 
 
 London and North Western Railway, The Official Illustrated Guide to the. 
 
 IS. ; cloth, 2s. 
 London and South Western Railway, The Official Illustrated Guide to the. 
 
 IS. ; cloth, 2S. 
 
 London, Brighton and South Coast Railway, The Official Illustrated Guide 
 
 to the, IS. ; cloth, 2s. 
 London (Ancient and Modern). From the Sanitary and Medical Point of View. 
 By G. V. PoORE, M.D., F.R.C.P. Illustrated. 5s. 
 
 London, Greater. By Edward Walford. Two Vols. With about 400 
 
 Illustrations, gs. each. Library Edition. Two Vols. £\ the set. 
 
 London, Old and New. By Walter Thornbury and Edward Walford. 
 
 Six Vols., each containing about 200 Illustrations and Maps. Cloth, 9s. each. Library 
 
 Edition. Imitation roxburgh, £^. 
 Longfellow, H. W., Choice Poems by. Illustrated by his Son, Ernest W 
 
 Longfellow. 6s. 
 Longfellow's Poetical Works. Fine-Art Edition. Illustrated throughout with 
 
 Original Engravings. Royal 4to, cloth gilt, £-i 3s. Popular Edition. i6s. 
 
 Master of BaUantrae, The. By Robert Louls Stevenson. 53. 
 Mechanics, The Practical Dictionary of. Containing 15,000 Drawings. Four 
 
 Vols. 21S. each. 
 
 Medical Handbook of Life Assurance. By James Edward Pollock, M.D., 
 
 F.R.C.P., and James Chisholm, Fellow of the Institute of Actuaries, London. 7s. 6d. 
 Medicine, Manuals for Students of. [A List forwarded post free on application.) 
 Metropolitan Year-Book, The. Paper, 2s. ; cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 Midland Railway, The Official Illustrated Guide to the. is. ; cloth, 2s. 
 Milton's L'Allegro and II Penseroso. Fully Illustrated. Cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 Modem Europe, A History of By C. A. Fyffe, M.A. 3 Vols., 12s. each. 
 Music, Illustrated History of. By Emil Naumann. Edited by the Rev. 
 
 Sir F. A. Gore Ouseley, Bart. Illustrated. Two Vols. 31s. 6d. <- 
 
 National Library, Cassell's. In Weekly Volumes, each containing about 192 
 
 pages. Paper covers, 3d. ; cloth, 6d. {A List 0/ the Volumes already published will 
 
 be sent post free on application.) 
 
 Natural History, Cassell's Concise. By E. Perceval Wright, M.A., M.D., 
 
 F.L.S. With several Hundred Illustrations. 7s. 6d. ; roxburgh, los. 6d. 
 
 Natural History, Cassell's New. Edited by Prof. P. Martin Duncan, M.a, 
 
 F.R.S., F.G.S. With Contributions by Eminent Scientific Writers. Complete in 
 Six Vols. With about 2,000 high-class Illustrations. Extra crown 410, cloth, gs. each. 
 
 Nature, Short Studies ftom. Illustrated. Cheap Edition. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Nursing for the Home and for the Hospital, A Handbook oL By Cathe- 
 rine J. Wood. Cheap Edition, is. 6d. ; cloth. 2s. 
 
 Nursing of Sick Children, A Handbook for the. By Catherine J.Wood. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Orion the Gold Beater. A Novel. By Sylvanus Cobb, Junr. Cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Our Own Country. Si-x Vols. With 1,200 Illustrations. Cloth, 7s. 6d. each. 
 
 Paxton's Flower Garden. Three Vols. With 100 Coloured Plates, ^i is. each. 
 
 People I've Smiled With. Recollections of a Merry Little Life. By Marshall 
 P. Wilder. 2s. ^ ,..,.-. , 
 
 Peoples of the World, The. By Dr. Robert Brown. Complete in Six Volumes. 
 
 With Illustrations. 7s. 6d. each. 
 
 Phantom City, The. By W. Westall. 5s. 
 
 Photography for Amateurs. By T. C. Hepworth. Illustrated, is. ; or cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 Phrase and Fable, Dictionary of. By the Rev. Dr. Brewer. Cheap Edition, 
 
 Enlarged, cloth, 3s. 6d. ; or with leather back, 4s. 6d. 
 
 Picturesque America. Complete in Four Vols. , with 48 Exquisite Steel Plates, 
 and about 800 Original Wood Engravings. ;^2 2S. each. 
 
 Picturesque Canada, With about 600 Original Illustrations. Two Vols., 
 £-i 3s. each. 
 
 Picturesque Europe. Complete in Five Vols. Each containing 13 Exquisite Steel 
 Plates, from Original Drawings, and nearly 200 Original Illustrations. /21 ; half- 
 morocco, £,-ix ics. ; morocco gilt, £,s^ los. The Popular Edition is now complete 
 in Five Vols., i8s. each. 
 

 
 1 
 
 Selectio7is from Cassell tfc Company s Publications. 
 
 1 
 
 Pigeon Keeper, The Practical. By Lewis Wright. Illustrated. 3s. 6d. 
 
 
 Pigeons, The Book of. By Robert Fulton. Edited by Lewis Wright. With 
 
 
 
 50 Coloured Plates and numerous Wood Engravings. 31s. 6d. ; half-morocco, £,1 2S. 
 
 
 
 Pocket Guide to Europe (Cassell's). Size 5J in. x sf in. Leather, 6s. 
 
 
 
 Poems, Representative of Living Poets, American and English. Selected by 
 
 
 
 the Poets themselves, iss. 
 
 
 
 Poets, Cassell's Miniature Library of the :— 
 
 
 
 Burns. Two Vols. Cloth, is. each-; or cloth. 
 
 Milton. Two Vols. Cloth, is. each ; or cloth, 
 
 
 
 pilt edges, as. 6d. the set. 
 Byron. Two Vols. Cloth, is. each ; or cloth. 
 
 gilt edges, as. 6d. the set. 
 
 
 
 Scott. Two Vols. Cloth, IS. each; or doth. 
 
 
 
 filt edpes, as. 6d. the set. 
 Hood. Two Vols. Cloth, is. each ; or cloth. 
 
 gilt edges, as. 6d. the set. 
 
 
 
 Sheridan and Goldsmith. 2 Vols. Cloth, is. 
 
 
 
 §ilt edges, as. 6d. the set. 
 
 each ; or cloth, gilt edges, as. 6d. the set. 
 
 
 
 liOnerfellow. Two Vols. Cloth, is. each ; or 
 cloth, ffilt edges, as, 6d. the set. 
 
 Wordsworth. Two Vols. Cloth, is. each; 
 
 
 
 or cloth, gilt edges, as. 6d. the set. 
 
 
 
 Shakespeare. Twelve Vols., half cloth, in box, 12s. 
 
 
 
 Poor Relief In Foreign Countries, &c. By Louisa Twining, is. 
 
 
 
 Popular Library, Cassell's. A Series of New and Original Works. Cloth, is. each. 
 
 
 
 The Russian Empire. 
 
 John Wesley. 
 
 
 
 The B,eligiou8 Revolution in the Six- 
 teenth Century. 
 Bnglish Journalism. 
 
 The Story of the EngUsh Jacobins. 
 Domestic Polk Lore. 
 The Rev. Rowland TTin 
 Boswell and Johnson. 
 
 
 
 Our Colonial Empire. 
 
 History of the Pree-Trade Movement in 
 
 
 
 The Young Man in the Battle of Life. 
 
 England. 
 
 
 
 Poidtry Keeper, The Practical By Lewis Wright. With Coloured Plates 
 
 
 
 and Illustrations. 3s. 6d. 
 
 
 
 Poultry, The Book of. By Lewis Wright. Popular Edition. With Illustra- 
 
 
 
 tions on Wood, los. 6d. 
 
 
 
 Poultry, The Illustrated Book of. By Lewis Wright. With Fifty Exquisite 
 
 
 
 Coloured Plates, and numerous Wood Engravings. Cloth, 31s. 6d. ; half-morocco, £2 2s. 
 
 
 
 Printing Machinery and Letterpress Printing, Modern. By Fred. J. F. 
 
 
 
 Wilson and Douglas Grey. Illustrated, zis. 
 
 
 
 Queen Victoria, The Life and Times of. By Robert Wilson. Complete in 
 
 
 
 2 Vols. With numerous Illustrations, gs. each. 
 
 
 
 Queer Race, A. By W. Westall. Cloth, 5s. " 
 
 
 
 Rabbit-Keeper, The Practical. By Cuniculus. Illustrated. 3s. 6d. • 
 
 
 
 Railway Library, Cassell's. Crown 8vo, boards, 2s. each. 
 
 
 
 I}ead Man's Rook. By Q. 
 
 The Tragedy of Brinkwater. By Martha 
 
 
 
 A. Queer Race. By W. Westall. 
 
 L. Moodey. 
 
 
 
 Captain Trafalgar. By Westall and Laurie. 
 
 An American Penman. By Julian Haw- 
 thorne. 
 
 
 
 The Phantom City. By W. WestaU. 
 
 Section 558 ; or. The Fatal Letter. By 
 
 
 
 Another's Crime. By Julian Hawthorne. 
 The Toke of the Tnorah. By Sidney 
 
 Julian Hawthorne. , 
 
 
 
 The Brown Stone Boy. By W. H. Bishop. 
 
 
 
 Luska. 
 
 A Tragic Mystery. By Juhan Hawthi,rne. 
 The Great Bank Robbery. By Julian 
 
 
 
 Who is John Neman P By Charles Henry 
 
 
 
 Beckett. 
 
 Hawthorne. 
 
 
 
 R«d Library of English and American Classics, The. Stiff covers, is. each ; 
 
 
 
 cloth, 2S. each. 
 
 
 
 The Prairie. 
 
 tJnele Tom's Cabin. 
 
 
 
 Dombey and Son. Two Vols. 
 Klght and Morning. 
 
 Deerslayer. 
 
 Eugene Aram. 
 
 Jack Hinton, the Guardsman. 
 
 
 
 Kenilworth. 
 
 Rome and the Early Christians. 
 
 
 
 The Ingoldsby Legends. 
 
 The Trials of Margaret Lyndsay. 
 
 
 
 Tower of London. 
 
 Edgar Allan Poe. Prose and Poetry, Selec- 
 OlcT Mortality. [tions from. 
 
 
 
 The Pioneers. 
 
 
 
 Charles O'Malley. 
 
 The Hour and the Man. 
 
 
 
 Bamaby Rudge. 
 
 Washington Irving's Sketoh-Book. 
 
 
 
 Oakes and Ale. 
 
 Last Days of Pahnyra. 
 Tales of the Borders. 
 
 
 
 The King's Own. 
 
 
 
 People I have Met. 
 
 Pride and Prejudice. 
 
 
 
 The Pathfinder. 
 
 Last of the Mohicans. 
 
 
 
 Brelina. 
 
 Heart of Midlothian. 
 
 
 
 Soott'B Poems. 
 
 Last Days of Pompeii. 
 
 
 
 I<aat of the Barons. 
 
 Yellowplush Papers. 
 
 
 
 AdventTires of Mr. Ledbury. 
 
 Handy Andy. 
 
 
 
 iTanhoe. 
 
 Selected Plays. 
 
 
 
 Oliver Twist. 
 
 American Humour. 
 
 
 
 Beleotions from Hood's Works. 
 
 Sketches by Boz. 
 
 
 
 IiongfeUow'8 Prose Works. 
 
 Maeaulay's Lays and Selected Essay*. 
 
 
 
 Sense and Sensibility. 
 
 Harry Lorrequer. 
 Old Curiosity Shop. 
 
 
 
 Ijytton'B Plays. [Harte). 
 
 
 
 Talee, Poems, and Sketches (Bret 
 
 Rienzi. 
 
 
 
 Martin Ohuzzlewit. Two Vols. 
 
 The TaUsman. 
 
 
 
 The Prince of the House of David. 
 
 Pickwick. Two Vols. 
 
 
 
 Sheridan's flays. 
 
 Scarlet Letter. 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
Selections from Cassell ^ Company's Publications. 
 
 Rivers of Great Britain, The: Descriptive, Historical, Pictorial. RIVERS 
 of THE EAST COAST. With numerous highly-finished Engravings. Royal 4to, 
 with Etching as Frontispiece, 42s. 
 
 Rossettl, Dante Gabriel, as Designer and Writer. Notes by William 
 
 Michael Rossetti. 7s. 6d. 
 Royal River, The: The Thames, from Source to Sea. With Descriptive Text 
 
 and a Series of beautiful Engravings. £■2. 2s. 
 
 Russia. By Sir Donald Mackenzie Wallace, M.A. 5s. 
 Russia, Truth about. By W. T. Stead. Demy 8vo, cloth, los. 6d. 
 Russo-TurMsh War, CasseU's History of. With about 500 Illustrations. Two 
 
 Vols., qs. each ; library binding, One Vol., 155. 
 St. Cuthbert's Tower. By Florence Warden. Three Vols., cloth, 31s. 6d. 
 Saturday Journal, CasseU's. Yeariy Vols. , 7s. 6d. 
 Science for All. Edited by Dr. Robert Brown, M.A., F.L.S., &c. Revisea 
 
 Edition. With 1,500 Illustrations. Five Vols., 9s. each. 
 
 Sea, The: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, and Heroism. By 
 
 F. Whymper. With 400 Illustrations. Four Vols., 7s. 6d. each. 
 Secret of the Lamas, The. A Tale of Thibet. Crown 8vo, 53. 
 Sent Back by the Angels ; and other Ballads of Home and Homely Life. By 
 
 Frederick Langbridge, M.A. Popular Edition, is. 
 Shaftesbury, The Seventh Earl of, K.G., The Life and Work of. By Edwin 
 
 HODDER. With Portraits. Three, Vols., 36s. Popular Edition, in One Vol., 7s. 6d. 
 
 Shakspere, The International. Edition de luxe. 
 
 " King Henry IV." Illustrated by Herr Eduard GrOtzner. £■} los. 
 
 "As You Like It." Illustrated by Mons. Emile Bayard. ^-^ los. 
 
 "Romeo and Juliet." Illustrated by Frank Dicksee, A.R.A. £5 53. 
 Shakspere, The Leopold. With 400 Illustrations, and an Introduction by F. J. 
 
 FuRNiVALL. Cheap Edition, 3s. 6d. Small 410, cloth gilt, gilt edges, 6s. ; roxburgh, 7s. 6d. 
 Shakspere, The Royal. With Exquisite Steel Plates and Wood Engravings. 
 
 Three Vols. 15s. each. 
 
 Shakespeare, CasseU's Quarto Edition. Edited by Charles and Mary Cowden 
 
 Clarke, and containing about 600 Illustrations by H. C. Selous. Complete in 
 Three Vols., cloth gilt, £-i 3s. — Also published in Three separate Volumes, in cloth, 
 viz. : — The Comedies, 21s. ; The Historical Plays, i8s. 6d. ; The Tragedies, 25s. 
 
 Shakespeare, Miniature. Illustrated. In Twelve Vols., in box, 12s. ; or in 
 Red Paste Grain (box to match/, with spring catch, lettered in gold, 21s. 
 
 Shakespeare, The England of. By E. Goadby. Illustrated. New Edition. 2S. 6d. 
 
 Shakespearean Scenes and Characters. By Austin Brereton. Royal 410, 21s. 
 
 Sketching from Nature in Water Colours. By Aaron Penley. 153. 
 
 Skin and Hair, The Management of the. By Malcolm Morris, F. R. C.S, as. 
 
 Social Welfare, Subjects of. By the Rt. Hon. Sir Lyon Playfair, M.P. ys. 6d. 
 
 South Eastern Railway, The Official Illustrated Guide to The. is. ; cloth, as. 
 
 Spectacles, How to Select, in Cases of Long, Short, and Weak Sight. By 
 Charles Bell Taylor, F.R.C.S. and M.D., Edin. is. 
 
 Splendid Spur, The. Being Memories of the Adventures of Mr. John Marvel, 
 a Servant of His late Majesty, King Charles I., in the years 1642-3. Written by 
 himself. Edited in Modern English by " Q," Author of " Dead Man's Rock," &c. 
 Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 Sports and Pastimes, CasseU's Complete Book of. Cheap Edition. With 
 
 more than 900 Illustrations. Cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 Starland. Being Talks with Young People about the Wonders of the Heavens. 
 
 By Sir Robert Stawell Ball, LL.D., F.R.S., F.R.A.S. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 Stock Exchange Year-Book, The. By Thomas Skinner. 12s. 6d. 
 Sunlight and Shade. With numerous Exquisite Engravings. 73. 6d. 
 Thackeray, Character Sketches from. Six New and Original Drawings by 
 
 Frederick Barnard, reproduced in Photogravure. 21s. 
 Three and Sixpenny Library of Standard Tales, &c. All Illustrated and bound 
 
 in cloth gilt. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. each. 
 Jane Austen and lier Works. 
 
 The Half Sisters. 
 Peggy Oglivle's Inheritance. 
 The Family Honour. 
 Esther West. 
 Working to Win. 
 Exilof and his Fables. 
 Fairy Tales. By Prof. Morley. 
 
 Tot Book for aU PubUc Examinations. By W. S. Thomson, M.A. is. 
 
 Mission Life in Greece and Palestine. 
 The Bomance of Trade. 
 The Three Homes. 
 Deep dale Vicarage. 
 In Duty Bound. 
 
Selections from Cassell & Company's Publications. 
 
 Treasure Island. By R. L. Stevenson. Illustrated, ss. 
 
 Treatment, Tlie Year-Book of. A Critical Review for Practitioners of Medicine 
 and Surgery. 5s. 
 
 Tree Painting in Water Colours. By W. H. J. Boot. With Eighteen 
 
 Coloured Plates, and valuable instructions by the Artist. 5s. 
 Trees, Familiar. ByG. S. Boulger, F.L.S., F.G.S. Two Series. With Forty 
 
 full-page Coloured Plates by W. H. J. Boot. 12s. 6d. each. 
 Triumphs of Engineering. With Eight full-page Illustrations. 5s. 
 Troy Town, The Astonishing History of. By Q, Author of " Dead Man's Rock." 
 
 Crown 8vo, cloth, ss. 
 Under a Strange Mask. By Frank Barrett. Illustrated. Two Vols. 12s. 
 "Unicode": The Universal Telegraphic Phrase Book. Pocket and Desk 
 
 Editions, as. 6d. each. 
 
 United States, Cassell's History of the. By the late Edmund Ollier. With 6o<:) 
 
 Illustrations. Three Vols. gs. each. 
 
 United States, The Youth's History of. By Edward S. Ellis. Illustrated. 
 
 Four Vols. 36s. 
 
 Universal History, Cassell's Illustrated. With nearly One Thousand 
 
 Illustrations. Vol. I. Early and Greek History. — Vol. II. The Roman Period. — 
 Vol. III. The Middle Ages.— Vol. IV. Modern History, gs. each. 
 
 Vaccination Vindicated. An Answer to the leading Anti- Vaccinators. By John 
 C. McVail, M.D., D.P.H. Camb. ss. 
 
 Veiled Beyond, The. A Novel. By S. B. Alexander. Cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Vicar of Wakefield and other Works by Oliver Goldsmith. Illustrated. 
 
 3s. 6d. ; cloth, gilt edges, 5s. 
 Water-Colour Painting, A Course of. With Twenty-four Coloured Plates by 
 R. P. Leitch, and full Instructions to the Pupil. 5s. 
 
 What Girls Can Do. By Phyllis Browne. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Wild Birds, Familiar. By W. Swaysland. Four Series. With 40 Coloured 
 
 Plates in each. 12s. 6d. each. 
 Wild nowers. Familiar. By F. E. Hulme, F.L.S., F.S.A. Five Series. With 
 
 40 Coloured Plates in each. 12s. 6d. each. 
 
 Wise Woman, The. By George Macdonald. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Woman's World, The. Yearly Volume. i8s. 
 
 Wordsworth's Ode on Immortality, and Lines on Tintem Abbey. Fully 
 
 Illustrated. Cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 World of Wit and Humour, The. With 400 Illustrations. Cloth, 7s. 6d. ; cloth 
 
 gilt, gilt edges, los. fid. 
 World of Wonders, The. With 400 Illustrations. Two Vols. 7s. 6d. each. 
 World's Lumber Room, The. By Selina Gaye. Illustrated. 2s. 6d. 
 Yule Tide. Cassell's Christmas Annual, is. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINES. 
 The Quiver, for Suntlny and General Heading. Monthly, 6d. 
 
 CasseWs Family Magazine. Monthly, 7d. 
 ** Little Folhs" Magazine. Monthly, 6d. 
 The Magazine of Art. Monthly, is. 
 The Woman's World. Monthly, is. 
 
 CasseWs Saturday Journal. Weekly, id. ; Monthly, 6d. 
 Work. An Illustrated Magazine of Practice and Theory for all Work- 
 men, Professional and Amateur. Weekly, id. ; Monthly, fid. 
 
 ♦.• Fu!l particulars of CASSELL & COMPANY'S Monthly Serial Publications 
 
 willbefoundin Cassell & Company's COMPLETE CATALOGUE. 
 
 Catalogues of Cassell & Company's Publications, which may be had at all 
 
 Booksellers', or will be sent post free on application to the Publishers : — 
 Cassell's Complete Catalogue, containing particulars of One Thousand 
 
 Volumes. 
 Cassfll's Classified Catalogue, in which their Works are arranged according 
 
 to price, from Threepence to Fifty Guineas. 
 Cassell's Educational Catalogue, containing particulars of Cassell & 
 Company's Educational Works and Students' Manuals. 
 
 CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited, Ludgate Hill, London. 
 
Selections from Cassell & Company's Publications. 
 
 liliks antJ fliltQioits Morks. 
 
 Bible, Cassell's Illustrated Family. With 900 Illustrations. Leather, gilt 
 
 edges, £2. los. ; full morocco, £3 los. 
 Bible Dictionary, Cassell's. , With nearly 600 Illustrations. 7s. 6d. ; roxburgh, 
 
 los. 6d. 
 Bible Educator, The. Edited by the Very Rev. Dean Plumptre, D.D. With 
 
 Illustrations, Maps, &c. Four Vols., cloth, 6s. each. 
 Bible Talks about Bible Pictures. Illustrated by Gustave DoKfe and others. 
 
 Large 410, 5s. 
 Blblewomen and Nurses. Yearly Volume, 3s. 
 Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress (Cassell's Illustrated). 4to. 7s. 6d. 
 Bunyan's PUgxim's Progress. With Illustrations. Popular Editiort, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Child's Bible, The. With 200 Illustrations. Demy 4to, 830 pp. 150^/2 Thousand. 
 Cheap Edition, 7s. 6d. Superior Edition, with 6 Colo'.\red Plates, gilt edges, los. fid. 
 
 Child's Life of Christ, The. Complete in One Handsome Volume, with about 
 
 200 Original Illustrations. Cheap Edition, cloth, 7s, 6d. ; or with 6 Coloured Plates, 
 cloth, gilt edges, los. 6d. Demy 4to, gilt edges, 21s. 
 
 "Come, ye Children." By Rev. Benjamin Waugh. Illustrated. 5s. 
 Commentary, The New Testament, for English Readers. Edited by the 
 Rt. Rev. C. J. Ellicott, D.D., Lord Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol. In Three 
 Volumes, a is. each. 
 
 Vol. 1.— The Four Gospels. 
 
 Vol. II.— The Acts, Romans, Corinthians, G-alatians. 
 
 Vol. III.— The remaining Books of the New Testament. 
 
 Commentary, The Old Testament, for English Readers. Edited by the Rt. 
 
 Rev. C. J. Ellicott, D.D., Lord Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol. Complete in 
 
 S Vols., 2 IS. each. 
 Vol. I.— Genesis to Numbers. I Vol. III.— Kings I. to Esther. 
 
 Vol. 11.— Deuteronomy to Samuel II. | Vol. IV.— Job to Isaiah. 
 
 Vol. v.— Jeremdah to Malachi. 
 
 Dictionary of Religion, The. An Encyclopaedia of Christian and other 
 
 Religious Doctrines, Denominations, Sects, Heresies, Ecclesiastical Terms, History, 
 
 Biography, &c. &c. By the Rev. William Benham, B.D. Cloth, 21s. ; roxburgh, 25s. 
 
 Dore Bible. With 230 Illustrations by Gustave DoRfi. Original Edition. 
 
 Two Vols., cloth, ^8 ; best morocco, gilt edges, £x^. 
 Early Days of Christianity, The. By the Ven. Archdeacon Farrar, D.D., F.R.S. 
 Library Edition. Two Vols., 24s. ; morocco, £1 2s. 
 
 Popular Edition. Complete in One Volume, cloth, 6s. ; cloth, gilt edges, 
 7s. od. ; Persian morocco, los. 6d. ; tree-calf, 15s. 
 Family Prayer-Book, The. Edited by Rev. Canon Garbett, M.A. , and Rev. 
 S. Martin. Extra crown 410, cloth, 55. ; morocco, 18s. 
 
 Geikie, Cunningham, D.D., Works by:— 
 
 The Holy Land and the Bible. A Book of Scripture Illustrations gathered in Palestine. With 
 
 Map. Two Vols. 24s. 
 Hours with the Bible. Six Vols. 6s. each. 
 Entering on Life. 3s. 6d. 
 The Precious Promises, as. 6d. 
 The English Reformation, ss. 
 Old Testament Cliaraoters. 6s. 
 The Life and Words of Christ. Illustrated. Two Vols., cloth, 30s. Library Edition, Two 
 
 Vols., cloth, 30s. Students' Edition, Two Vols., i6s. Cheap Edition, in One VoL 7s. 6d. 
 
 Qlories of the Man of Sorrows, The. Sermons preached at St. James's, 
 Piccadilly. By the Rev. H. G. Bonavia Hunt, Mus.D., F.R.S.Edin. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Gospel of Grace, The. By a Lindesie. Cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Helps to Belief. A Series of Helpful Manuals on the Religious Difficulties of the 
 Day. Edited by the Rev. Teignmouth Shore, M.A., Chaplain in Ordinary to 
 the Queen. Cloth, is. each. 
 
 Creation. By the Lord Bishop of Carlisle. 
 Miracles. By the Kev. Brownlow Mait- 
 
 land, M.A. 
 PRAYER. By the Kev. T. Teignmouth Shore, 
 
 M.A. 
 
 The Morality of the Old TESTAMENr. By 
 the Bev. Newman Smyth, D.D. 
 
 The Divinity of our Lord. By the Lord 
 Bishop of Derry. 
 
 The ATONE.VCENT. By the Lord Bishop of Peterborough. 
 
Selections from Cassell & Company's Publications. 
 
 "Heart Chords." A Series of Works by Eminent Divines. Bound in cloth, red 
 ; edges, IS. each. 
 
 My Father. By the Right Rev. Ashton Oxenden, 
 late Bishop of Montreal. 
 
 My Bible. By the Rt. Rev. W. Boyd Carpenter, 
 Bishop of Ripon. 
 
 My "Work for God. By the Right Rev. Bishop 
 Cotterill. ^ 
 
 My Object in Life. By the Ven. Archdeacon 
 Farrar, D.D. 
 
 My Aspirations. By the Rev. G. Matheson, D. D. 
 
 My Emotional Life. By the Rev. Preb. Chad- 
 wick D.D, 
 
 My Body. By the Rev. Prof. W. G. Blaikie, D.D. 
 
 My Soul. By the Rev. P. B. Power, M.A. 
 
 My Growth in Divine Life. By the Rev. 
 
 Prebendary Reynolds, M.A. 
 My Hereafter. By the Very Rev. Dean Bicker- 
 
 steth. 
 My Walk with God. By the Very Rev. Dean 
 
 , Montgomery. 
 My Aids to the Divine Life. By the Very 
 
 Rev. Dean Boyle. 
 My Sources of Strength. By the Rev. E. E. 
 
 Jenkins, M.A., Secretary of the Wesleyan 
 
 Missionary Society. 
 
 Holy Land and the Bible, The. A Book of Scripture Illustrations gathered in 
 Palestine. By the Rev. Cunningham Geikie, D.D. Two Vols., demy 8vo, 1,120 
 pages, with Map. Price 24s. 
 
 ••I Must." Short Missionary Bible Readings. By Sophia M. Nugent. 
 Enamelled cover, 6d. ; cloth, gilt edges, is. 
 
 Life of Christ, The. By the Ven. Archdeacon Farrar, D.D., F.R.S., Chaplain 
 in Ordinary to the Queen. 
 
 Illustrated Edition, with about 300 Original Illustrations. Extra crown 4to, 
 cloth, gilt edges, 21s. ; morocco antique, 42s. 
 
 Library Edition. Two Vols. Cloth, 24s. ; morocco, 42s. 
 
 Popular Edition, in One Vol. 8vo, cloth, 6s. ; cloth, gilt edges, 7s. 6d. ; Persian 
 njorocco, gilt edges, los. 6d. ; tree-calf, 15s. 
 
 Marriage Ring, The. By William Landels, D.D. Bound in white 
 leatherette, gilt edges, in box, 6s. ; French morocco, 8s. 6d. 
 
 Moses and Geology ; or, the Harmony of the Bible -with Science. By 
 
 the Rev. Samuel Kinns, Ph.D., F.R.A.S. Illustrated. Cheap Edition. 6s. 
 
 Protestantism, The History of. By the Rev. J. A. Wylie, LL.D. Containing 
 upwards of 600 Original Illustrations. Three Vols., 27s. ; Library Edition, 30s. 
 
 "Quiver" Yearly Volume, The. With about 600 Original Illustrations and 
 Coloured Frontispiece. 7s. 6d. Also Monthly, 6d. 
 
 St. George for England; and other Sermons preached to Children. Fifth 
 Edition. By the Rev. T. Teignmouth Shore, M.A. 5s. 
 
 St PavQ, The Life and Work of. By the Ven. Archdeacon Farrar, D.D., 
 F.R.S., Chaplain in Ordinary to the Queen. 
 Library Edition. Two Vols., cloth, 24s. ; calf, 42s. 
 
 Illustrated Edition, complete in One Volume, with about 300 Illustrations, 
 £z IS. ; morocco, £2 2s. 
 
 Popular Edition. One Volume, 8vo, cloth, 6s. ; cloth, gilt edges, 7s. 6d. ; 
 Persian morocco, los. 6d. ; tree-calf, 15s. 
 
 Secular Life, The Gospel of the. Sermons preached at Oxford. By the Hon. 
 W. H. Fremantle, Canon of Canterbury. Ckeafi Edition. 1%. 6d. 
 
 Shall We Know One Another? By the Rt. Rev. J. C. Ryle, D.D., Bishop of 
 
 Liverpool. Neit) and Enlarged Edition. Cloth limp, is. 
 
 Stromata. By the Ven. Archdeacon Sheringham, M.A. 2s. 6d. 
 
 " Sunday," Its Origin, History, and Present Obligation. By the Ven. Arch- 
 deacon Hessey, D.C.L. Fifth Edition. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Twilight of Life, The: Words of Counsel and Comfort lor the Aged. By 
 
 John Ellerton, M.A. is. 6d. 
 
 Voice of Time. The. By John Stroud. Cloth gilt, is. 
 
Selections from Cassell & Company's Publications. 
 
 TitUB, Pliilemon, Hebrews, 
 
 and James. 3s. 
 Peter, Jude, and Joh.n. 3s. 
 The Revelation. 3s. 
 An Introduction to the New 
 
 Testament. 2s. 6d. 
 
 (Btrurattonal Morka an& ^tutr^nta' Jlanuals. 
 
 Alphabet, Cassell's Pictorial Size, 35 inches by 42J inches. Mounted on 
 Linen, with rollers. 3s. fid. 
 
 Arithmetics, The Modem School. By George Ricks, B.Sc. Lond. With Test 
 
 Cards. {List on application.) 
 
 Book-Keeping'. By Theodore Jones. For Schools, 2s. ; or cloth, 3s. For 
 
 THE Million, 2s. ; or cloth, 3s. Books for Jones's System, Ruled Sets of, 2's. 
 
 Chemistry, The Public School. By J. H. Anderson, M.A. 2s. 6d. 
 Commentary, The New Testament. Edited by Bishop Ellicott. Handy 
 
 Volume Edition. Suitable for School and general use. 
 Bt. Matthew. 3s. 6d. Bomana. 2s. 6d. 
 
 St. Mark. 3s. Corinthians I. and II. 3s. 
 
 Bt. Luke. 3s. fid. Galatians, Ephesians, and 
 
 8t. John. 3s. fid. Philippians. 3s. 
 
 The Acts of the Apostles. Colossians, Thessalonians, 
 3s. fid. and Timothy. 3s. 
 
 Commentary, The Old Testament. Edited by Bishop Ellicott. Handy Volume 
 
 Edition. Suitable for School and general use. 
 Genesis. 3s. fid. I Leviticus. 3s. I Deuteronomy. 2s. fid. 
 
 Exodus. 3s. I Numbers. 2s. fid. I 
 
 Copy-Books, Cassell's Graduated. Complete in 18 Books. 2d. each. 
 Copy-Books, The Modern School. Complete in 12 Books. 2d. each. 
 Drawing Copies, CasseU's "New Standard." Fourteen Books :— 
 
 Books A to F, for Standards L to IV. . . . . . . . . . . 2d. each. 
 
 „ G, H, K, L, M, O, for Standards V. to VII 3d. each. 
 
 ,, N, P, .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 4d. each. 
 
 Drawing Copies, Cassell's Modern School Freehand. First Grade, is. ; Second 
 
 Grade, 2s. 
 
 Electricity, Practical. By Prof. W. E. Ayrton. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Energy and Motion : A Text-Book of Elementary Mechanics. By William 
 
 Paige, M.A. Illustrated, is. fid. 
 English Literature, A First Sketch of, from the Earliest Period to the Present 
 
 Time. By Prof. Henry Morley. 7s. fid. 
 Euclid, Cassell's. Edited by Prof. Wallace, M.A. is. 
 Euclid, The First Four Books of. In paper, 6d. ; cloth, gd. 
 French, Cassell's Lessons in. New and Revised Edition. Parts I. and II., each 
 
 2S. 6d. ; complete, 4s. fid. Key, is. fid. 
 French-English and English-French Dictionary. Entirely New and Enlarged 
 
 Edition. 1,150 pages, 8vo, cloth, 3s. fid. 
 
 French Reader, Cassell's Public School. By Guillaume S. Conrad. 2s. 6d. 
 Galbraith and Haughton's Scientific Manuals. By the Rev. Prof. Galbraith, 
 M.A., and the Rev. Prof. Haughton, M.D., D.C.L. 
 
 Optics. 2S. fid. 
 
 Hydrostatics. 3s. fid. 
 
 Astronomy. 
 
 Steam Engine. 3s. fid. 
 
 Algebra. Part I., cloth, 2S. fid. Complete, 7s. fid. 
 
 Tides and Tidal Currents, with Tidal Cards, 3s. 
 
 Plane Trigonometry. 2s. fid. 
 
 Buolid. Books I., II., HI. 2s. fid. Books IV., 
 
 V.,VL as. fid. 
 Mathematical Tables. 3s. fid. 
 Mechanics. 3s. fid. 
 Natural Philosophy. 3s. fid. 
 
 Geometry, First Elements of Experimental. By Paul Bert. Fully Illustrated. 
 
 IS. fid. 
 Geometry, Practical Solid. By Major Ross, R.E. 2s. 
 German Dictionary, Cassell's New. German-English, English-German. Cloth, 
 
 7s. fid. ; half-morocco, 9s. ~~^ 
 
 German of To-Day. By Dr. Heinemann. is. 6d. 
 German Reading, First Lessons in. By A. Jagst. Illustrated, is. 
 Hand and Eye Training. By G. Ricks, B.Sc. Two Vols., with 16 Coloured 
 Plates in each Vol. Crown 4to, 6s. each. 
 
 Handbook of New Code of Regulations. By John F. Moss. New and Revised 
 
 Edition, is. ; cloth, 2S. 
 
 Historical Cartoons, Cassell's Coloured. Size 45 in. x 35 in. 2s. each. Mounted 
 
 on canvas and varnished, with rollers, 5s. each. (Descriptive pamphlet, 16 pp., id.) 
 Historical Course for Schools, Cassell's. Illustrated throughoutx I.— Stories 
 
 from English History, is. II.— The Simple Outline of English History, is. 3d. 
 
 III.— The Class History of England, 2s. fid. 
 Latin-EngUsh Dictionary, Cassell's. Thoroughly revised and corrected, and in 
 
 part re-written by J. R. V. Marchant, M.A. 3s. fid. 
 
1 
 
 Selections from Casseli & Company's PuHirafions. 
 
 By J. R. Beard, D.D., and C. 
 
 By 
 
 Latin-English and English-Latin Dictionary. 
 
 Beard, B.A. Crown 8vo, 914 pp., 3s. 6d. 
 
 Latin Primer, The New. By Prof. J. P. Postgate. as. 6d. 
 
 Laws of Every-Day Life. For the Use of Schools. By H. O. Arnold-Forster. 
 
 IS. 6d. ,,, Presentation Edition, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Lay Texts for the Young, in English and French. By Mrs. Richard 
 
 Strachey. 2s. 6d. 
 Little Folks' History of England. By Isa Craig-Knox. Illustrated, is. 6d. 
 Making of the Home, The : A Book of Domestic Economy for School and Home 
 
 Use. By Mrs. Samuel A. Barnett. is. 6d. 
 
 Marlborough Books : — 
 
 Arithmetio Examples, ss. I French Exercises. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Arithmetic Rules, is. 6d. | French Grammar. 2s. 6d. 
 
 German Grammar. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Mechanics and Machine Design, Numerical Examples in Practical. 
 
 R. G. Blaine, M.E. With Diagrams. Cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 "Model Joint" Wall Sheets, for Instruction in Manual Training. By S. 
 Barter. Eight Sheets, 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 Music, An Elementary Manual of. By Henry Leslie, is. 
 
 Popular Educator, Cassell's New. With Revised Text, New Maps, New Coloured 
 Plates, New Type, &c. To be completed in Eight Vols., 55. each. 
 
 Popular Educator, Cassell's. Complete in Six Vols., 5s. each. 
 
 Reader, The Citizen. By H. O. Arnold-Forster. is. 6d. 
 
 Reader, The Temperance. By Rev. J. Dennis Hird. Crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 Readers, Cassell's "Higher Class":— "The World's Lumber Room," Illus- 
 trated, 2s. 6d. ; " Short Studies from Nature," Illustrated, 2s. 6d. ; " The World 
 in Pictures." (Ten in Series.) Cloth, 2s. each. {List on application.) 
 
 Readers, Cassell's Historical. Illustrated throughout, printed on superior paper, 
 
 and strongly bound in cloth. (List on application.) 
 
 Readers, Cassell's Readable. Carefully graduated, extremely interesting, and 
 
 Illustrated throughout. (List on application.) 
 
 Readers for Infant Schools, Coloured. Three Books. Each containing 48 
 
 ** pages, including 8 pages in colours, ^d. each. 
 
 Readers, The Modern Geographical. Illustrated throughout. {List on application.) 
 
 Readers, The Modern School. Illustrated. {List on application.) 
 
 Reading and Spelling Book, Cassell's Illustrated, is. 
 
 School Bank Manual, A. By Agnes Lambert. 6d. 
 
 Sculpture, A Primer of. By E. Roscoe Mullins. Illustrated. 23. 6d. 
 
 Shakspere Reading Book, The. By H. Courthope Bowen, M.A. Illustrated. 
 
 3s. 6d. Also issued in Three Books, is. each. 
 Shakspere's Plays for School Use. Illustrated. 5 Books. 6d. each. 
 Spelling, A Complete Manual of. By J. D. Morell, LL. D. is. 
 Technical Educator, Cassell's. Illustrated throughout. Four Vols. 
 Technical Manuals, Cassell's. Illustrated throughout : — 
 
 Handrailirig and Staircasing. 3s. 6d. 
 Bricklayers, Drawing for. 3s. 
 Building Construction. 2s. 
 
 5s. each. 
 
 Cabinet-Makers, Drawing for. 3s. 
 Carpenters & Joiners, Drawing for. 3s. 6d. 
 Gothic Stonew^ork. 3s. 
 Linear Drawing & Practical Geometry, as. 
 Linear Drawing and Projection. The 
 
 Two Vols, in One, 3s. 6d. 
 Metal-Plate Workers, Drawing for. 3s. 
 
 Machinists & Engineers, Drawinefor is.6d 
 Model Drawing. 3s. 
 
 Orthographical and Isometrioal Projeo- 
 tion. 2s. 
 
 Practical Perspective, m. 
 Stonemasons, Drawing for. 3s 
 
 Technology, Manuals of. 
 
 Wormell, D.Sc, M.A. 
 
 By Prof. 
 
 Watch and Clock Making. By D. Glasgow, 
 Vice-President ot the British Horological 
 Institute. 4s. 6d. -- 
 
 Steel and Iron. By Prof. W. H. Greenwood, 
 F.C.S., M.I.C.E., &c. 5s. 
 
 Test Cards, Cassell's Combination. 
 
 Applied Meehanies. 
 
 LL.D. as. 
 Systematic Drawing and 
 
 Charles Ryan. as. 
 
 Edited by Prof. Ayrton, F.R.S., and Richard 
 
 Illustrated throughout. 
 
 Ball, 
 Shading. By 
 
 Design in Textile Fabrics. By T. R. Ashen- 
 hurst. 4s. 6d. 
 
 Spinning Woollen and Worsted. Bv w 
 S. McLaren, iM.P 4s .6d. ^ 
 
 Practical Mechanics. By Prof. Perry, M.E. 
 
 Cutting Tools Worked by Hand and Ma- 
 chine. By Prof. Smith. 3s 6d. 
 
 In sets, IS. each. 
 Test Cards, Cassell's Modem School. In sets, is. each, 
 A Copy of Casseli and Company's Complete Catalogue will 
 
 be forwarded post free on application. 
 
Selections from Cassell & Company's Publications. 
 
 ISoob for Jomtg f ^opU. 
 
 "Little Folks" Half-Yeaxly Volume. Containing 432 pages of Letterpress, with 
 
 Pictures on nearly every page, together with Two Full-page Plates printed in Colours 
 
 and Four Tinted Plates. Coloured boards, 3s. 6d. ; or cloth gilt, gilt edges, 5s. 
 Bo-Peep. A Book for the Little Ones. With Original Stories and Verses. 
 
 Illustrated with beautiful Pictures on nearly every page. Yearly Volume. Elegant 
 
 picture boards, 2s. 6d. ; cloth gilt, gilt edges, 3s. 6d. 
 Oassell's Pictorial Scrap Book, containing nearly two thousand Pictures beautifully 
 
 printed and handsomely bound in one large volume. Coloured boards, iss. ; cloth 
 
 lettered, 21s. 
 Legends for Lionel. New Picture Book by Walter Crane. 5s. 
 Flora's Feast. A Masque of Flowers. Penned and Pictured by Walter 
 
 Crane. With 40 pages in Colours. 5s. 
 The New CMldren's Album. Fcap. 4to, 320 pages. Illustrated throughout. 3s. 6d. 
 The Tales of the Sixty Mandarins. By P. V. Ramaswami Raju. 5s. 
 Gift Books for Young People. By Popular Authors. With Four Original 
 
 Illustrations in each. Cloth gilt, is. 6d. each. 
 Tbe Boy Hunters of Kentucky. By 
 
 Edward S. Ellis. 
 Sed Featlier: a Tale of the American 
 
 By Edward S. Ellis. 
 IWtterB ; or, " It's a Long Lane tliat lias 
 
 no Turning." 
 Trixy; or, " Those who Live in Glass 
 
 Houses shouldn't throw Stones." 
 The Two Hardcastles. 
 Seeking a City. 
 Bhoda's Howard. 
 Jaok Marston's Anchor. 
 
 Frank's Life-Battle. 
 
 Major Monk's Motto; or, "Look Before 
 
 you Leap." 
 Tim Thomson's Trial ; or, " All is not Gold 
 
 that Glitters." 
 Ursula's Stumbling-Block. 
 Kuth's Life -Work; or. 
 
 Gains." 
 Rags and Rainbows. 
 TJnele WUliam's Charge. 
 Pretty Pink's Purpose. 
 
 'No Pains, no 
 
 Books for Young People. Price 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 Heroes of Every-day Life. By Laura Lane. 
 Illustrated. 
 
 Decisive Events in History. By Thomas 
 Archer. With Original Illustrations. 
 
 The True Robinson Crusoea. 
 
 Peeps Abroad for Folks at Home. Illus- 
 trated. 
 
 Early Explorers. By Thomas Frost. 
 
 Home Chat with our Young Folks. Illus- 
 trated throughout. 
 
 Jungle, Peak, and Plain. Illustrated through- 
 out. 
 
 The World's Lumber Room. By Selina Gaye. 
 
 "Golden Mottoes" Series, The. Each Book containing 208 pages, with Four 
 
 full-page Original Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth gilt, 2s. each. 
 
 'Nil Desperaudum." By the Rev. F. Lang- 
 bridge, M.A. 
 
 " Bear and Forbear." By Sarah Pitt. 
 
 •Foremost if I Can." By Helen Atteridge. 
 
 "Honour is my Guide." By Jeanie Hering 
 
 (Mrs. Adams-Acton). 
 " Aim at a Sure End." By Emily Searchfield. 
 " He Conquers -who iDndures." By the Author 
 
 of " IVIay Cunningham's Trial," &c. 
 
 The "Cross and Crown" Series. Consisting of Stories founded on incidents 
 which occurred during Religious Persecutions of Past Days. With Illustrations in 
 each Book. 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 Bir Fire and Sword: a Story of the 
 Huguenots. By Thomas Archer. 
 
 Adam Hepburn's Vow: a Tale of Kirk 
 and Covenant. By Annie S. Swan. 
 
 No. 2III ; or. The Story of the Lost 
 Vestal. By Emma Marshall. 
 
 Strong to Sufl'er. By E. Wynne. 
 
 Heroes of the Indian Empire ; or. Stories 
 
 of Vaiour and Victory. By Ernest Foster. 
 In Letters of Flame : A Story of thj 
 
 Waldenses. By C. L. Mat6aux. 
 Through Trial to Triumph. By Madeline 
 
 B. Hunt. 
 
 The World's Workers. A Series of 
 
 Authors. Witn Jr'ortraits printed on a 
 Dr. Arnold, of Rugby. By Rose E. Selie. 
 The Earl of Shaftesbury. 
 Barah Robinson, Agnes Weston, and Mrs. 
 
 Meredith. 
 Thomas A. Edison and Samuel F. B. 
 
 Morse. 
 Jlrs. Somerville and Mary Carpenter. 
 Q-eneral Gordon. 
 Charles Diokens. 
 
 Sir Titus Salt and George Moore. 
 Florence Nightingale, Catherine Marsh, 
 
 Frances Ridley Havergal, Mrs. Ran- 
 
 yard<"L. N. R."). 
 
 New and Original Volumes by Popular 
 tint as Frontispiece, is. each. 
 
 Dr. Guthrie, Father Mathew, Elihu Bur- 
 ritt, Joseph Livesey. 
 
 Sir Henry Haveloek and Colin Campbell, 
 Lord Clyde. 
 
 Abraham Lincoln. 
 
 David Livingstone. 
 
 George Muller and Andrew Reed. 
 
 Richard Cobden. 
 
 Benjamin Franklin. 
 
 Handel. 
 
 Turner the Artist. 
 
 George and Robert Stephenson. 
 
Selections from Cassell & Company's Publications. 
 
 Five Shilling Books for Young People, 
 
 gilt, 5s. each. 
 Under Bayard's Banner. By Henry Frith. 
 The Romance of Invention. By las. Burnley. 
 Ttie Champion of Odin ; or. Viking Life 
 in the Days of Old. By J. Fred. Hodgetts. 
 
 With Original Illustrations. Cloth 
 
 Bound by a SpeU; or, the Hunted Witch 
 of the Forest. By the Hon. Mrs. Greene. 
 
 The King's Command. A Story for Girls. 
 By Maggie Symington. 
 
 Three and Sixpenny Books for Young People. 
 
 Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. each. 
 Polly : A New-Pashloned G-irl. By L. T. 
 
 Meade. 
 The Palace Beautiful. By L. T. Meade. 
 "Pollowr my Leader;" or, the Boys of 
 
 Templeton. . By Talbot Baines Reed. 
 For Fortune and Glory; a Story of the 
 
 Soudan War. By Lewis Hough. 
 Thp Cost of a Mistake. By Sarah Pitt. 
 A World of Girls : A Story of a School. 
 
 By L. T. Meade. 
 
 Freedom's Sword : A Story of the Days of Wallace and Bruce. By Annie S. Swan. 
 
 With Original lUustration.s. 
 
 On Board the "Esmeralda;" or, Martin 
 
 Leigh's Log. By John C. Hutcheson. 
 Lost among White Africans : A Boy's 
 
 Adventures on the Upper Congo. By 
 
 David Ker. 
 
 In Quest of Gold ; or. Under the WTianga 
 
 Falls. By Alfred St. Johnston. 
 For Queen and King ; or, the Loyal 
 
 'Prentice. By Henry Frith. 
 Perils Afloat and Brigands Ashore. By 
 
 Alfred Elwes. 
 
 The Deerfoot Series. By Edward S. Ellis, Author of "Boy Pioneer Series," 
 
 &c. &c. With Four full-page Illustrations in each Book. Cloth, 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 Hunters of the Ozak. | Camp in the Mountains. 
 
 Last War Trail. 
 
 The "Boy Pioneer" Series. By Edward S. Ellis. With Four Full-page 
 Illustrations in each Book. Crown 8vo, cloth, 2s. fid. each. 
 Ned in the Woods. A Tale of Early Days I Ned on the Kiver. A Tale of Indian River 
 in the West. | Warfare. 
 
 Ned in the Block House. A Story of Pioneer Life in Kentucky. 
 
 The 
 
 The 
 
 ' ' Log Cabin " Series. By Edward S. Ellis. With Four Full-page Illus- 
 trations in each. Crown 8vo, cloth, 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 The Lost Trail. | Camp-Fire and Wigwam. 
 
 Footprints in the Forest. 
 
 "Great River" Series. (Uniform with the "Log Cabin" Series.) By 
 Edward S. Ellis. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, cloth, bevelled boards, 2s. 6d. each. 
 Down the Mississippi. | Lost in the Wilds. 
 
 Up the iapajos: or. Adventures in Brazil. 
 
 Sixpenny Story Books. 
 
 well-known Writers. 
 The Smuggler's Cave. 
 Little Lizzie. 
 The Boat Club. 
 Luke Barnieott. 
 
 All Illustrated, and containing Interesting Stories by 
 
 Little Bird. 
 Little Pickles. 
 The Elchester College 
 Boys. 
 
 My First Cruise. 
 
 The Little Peacemaker. 
 
 The DeUt Jug. 
 
 Cassell's Picture Story Books. Each containing 60 pages of Pictures and 
 Stories, &c. 6d. each. 
 
 Little Talks. 
 Bright Stars. 
 Nursery Joys. 
 Pet's Posy. 
 Tiny Tales. 
 
 Daisy's Story Book. 
 Dot's Story Book. 
 A Nest of Stories. 
 Good Night Stories. 
 Chats for Small Chatterers. 
 
 Auntie's Stories. 
 Birdie's Story Book. 
 Little Chimes. 
 A Sheaf of Tales. 
 Dewdrop Stories. 
 
 Illustrated Books for the Little Ones. Containing interesting Stories. 
 
 Illustrated, is. each ; cloth gilt, is. 6d. 
 
 Scrambles and Scrapes. Those Golden Sands. 
 
 Tittle Tattle Tales. Little Mothers and their 
 
 Wandering Ways. Children. 
 
 Dumb Friends. Our Pretty Pets. 
 
 Indoors and Out. Our Sohoolday Hours. 
 
 Some Farm Friends. Creatures Tame. 
 
 AU 
 
 Creatures Wild. 
 Up and Down the Garden. 
 AU Sorts of Adventures. 
 Our Sunday Stories. 
 Our HoUday Hours. 
 
 Albums for Children. Price 3s. 6d. each. 
 
 The Chlt-Chat Album. Illustrated. 
 
 The Album for Home, School, and Play. 
 Containing Stories by Popular Authors. Set 
 in bold type, and illustrated throughout. 
 
 The New Children's Album. Illustrated, 
 My Own Album of Animals. Illustrated. 
 Picture Album of AU Sorts. Illustrated. 
 Little Folks' Holiday Album. Illustrated. 
 
Selections from Cassell <& Company'' s Publications. 
 
 ShllUng Story Books. All Illustrated, and containing Interesting Stories. 
 
 Seventeen Cats. 
 Bunty and the Eovs. 
 The Heir of Elmdale. 
 The Mystery at Shoueliff 
 
 Sotiool. 
 Claimed at Last, and Boy's 
 
 Keward. 
 Thorns and Tangles. 
 
 The Chiokoo in the Robin's 
 John's Mistake. [Nest. 
 
 Diamonds in the Sand. 
 Siu?ly Bob. 
 The History of Pive Little 
 
 Pitchers. 
 The Giant's Cradle. 
 Shag and DoU. 
 
 Atmt Lucia's Locket. 
 The Magic Mirror. 
 The Cost of Revenge. 
 Clever Frank. 
 Among the Redskins. 
 The Ferryman of Brill, 
 Harry Maxwell. 
 A Banished Monarch. 
 
 Cassell's Children's Treasuries. Each Volume contains Stories or Poetry, and 
 is profusely Illustrated. Cloth, is. each. 
 
 Cock Robin, and other Nursery Rhymes. 
 The Queen of Hearts. 
 Old Mother Hubbard. 
 Tuneful Lays for Merry Days. 
 Cheerful Songs for Young Folks. 
 Pretty Poems for Young People. 
 The Children's Joy. 
 
 Pretty Pictures and Pleasant Stories. 
 
 Our Picture Book. 
 
 Tales for the Little Ones. 
 
 My Sunday Book of Pictures. 
 
 Sunday Garland of Pictures and Stories. 
 
 Sunday Readings for Little Polks. 
 
 "Little Folks" Painting Books. With Text, and Outline Illustrations for 
 Water-Colour Painting, is. each. 
 Fruits and Blossoms for " Little Polks ' 
 
 to Paint. 
 The " Little Folks " Illuminating Book. 
 Pictures to Paint. 
 
 Pictures to Paint and Texts to Illumi- 
 nate (the two above books, handsomely 
 bound in cloth), price 2S. 6d. 
 
 The "Little Folks" Proverb Painting 
 Book. Cloth only, 2S. 
 
 Eighteenpenny Story Books. All Illustrated throughout. 
 
 Wee 'Willie Winkie. 
 
 Ups and Downs of a Donkey's Life. 
 
 Three Wee Ulster Lassies. 
 
 Up the Ladder. 
 
 Dick's Hero ; and other Stories. 
 
 The Chip Boy. 
 
 Raggles, Baggies, and the Emperor. 
 
 Roses from Thorns. 
 
 Faith's Father. 
 
 By Land and Sea. 
 
 The Young Berringtons. 
 
 Jeff and Leff. 
 
 Tom Morris's Error. 
 
 Worth more than Gold. 
 
 "Through Flood-Through Pire;" and 
 
 other Stories. 
 The Girl with the Golden Locks. 
 Stories of the Olden Time. 
 
 The "World in Pictures" Series. Illustrated throughout. 2S. 6d. each. 
 
 A Ramble Round Prance. 
 
 All the Russias. 
 
 Chats about Germany. 
 
 The Land of the Pyramids <Bgyi>t). 
 
 Peeps into China. 
 
 The Eastern Wonderland (Japan). 
 Glimpses of South America. 
 Round Africa. 
 
 The Land of Temples (India). 
 The Isles of the Pacific. 
 
 Two-SMUing Story Books. All Illustrated. 
 
 stories of the Tower. 
 Mr. Burke's Nieces. 
 May Cunningham's Trlal. 
 The Top of the Ladder : 
 
 How to Reach it. 
 Little Flotsam. 
 Madge and her Friends. 
 
 The CJhildren of the Court. 
 A Moonbeam Tangle. 
 Maid Marjory. 
 The Pour Cats of the Tip- 
 
 pertons. 
 Marion's Two Homes. 
 Little Polks' Sunday Book. 
 
 Two Fourpenny Bits. 
 
 Poor Nelly. 
 
 Tom Heriot. 
 
 Aunt Tabitha's Waifs. 
 
 In Mischief Again. 
 
 Through Peril to Fortune. 
 
 Peggy, and other Tales. 
 
 The Magic Flower Pot. | School Girls. 
 
 Half-crown Books. 
 
 Little Hinges. 
 
 Margaret's Enemy. 
 
 Pen's Perplejdties. 
 
 Notable Shipwrecks. 
 
 Golden Days. 
 
 W^onders of Common Things. 
 
 At the South Pole. 
 
 Soldier and Patriot (George Washiogrton). 
 
 Truth win Out. 
 
 Pictures of School Life and Boyhood. 
 
 The Young Man in the Battle of Life. &• 
 
 the Rev. Dr. Landels. 
 The True Glory of Woman. By the Rev 
 
 Dr. Landels. 
 The Wise Woman. By George Macdonald. 
 
Selections from Cassell <Si Company' s Publications. 
 
 Picture Teaching Series. Each book Illustrated throughout, 
 gilt, coloured edges, 2S. 6d. each. 
 
 Fcap. 4to, cloth 
 
 Through Picture-Land. 
 
 Picture Teaching for Toung and Old. 
 
 Scraps of Knowledge for the Little 
 
 Ones. 
 Great Lessons from Little Things. 
 Woodland Bomances. 
 
 Stories of Girlhood. 
 
 Frisk and his Flock. 
 
 Pussy Tip-Toes' Family. 
 
 The Boy Joiner and Model Maker. 
 
 The Children of Holy Scripture. 
 
 Library of Wonders. Illustrated Gift-books for Boys. Paper is. ; cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 ■Wonderful Adventures. 
 Wonders of Animal Instinct. 
 
 I Wonderful Balloon Ascents. 
 
 I W^onders of Bodily Strength and SkilL 
 
 Wonderful Escapes. 
 
 Books for the Little Ones. Fully Illustrated. 
 
 A Dozen and One; or. The Boys and 
 
 Girls of Polly's B,ing. By Mary D. 
 
 Brine. Full of Illustrations. 5s. 
 The Merry-go-Round. Poems for Children. 
 
 Illustrated throughout. 55. 
 Ehymes for the Young Folk. By William 
 
 AlUngham. Beautifully Illustrated. 3s. 6d. 
 The Little Doings of some Little Folks. 
 
 ";■ Chatty Cheerful. Illustrated. «. 
 The Sunday Scrap Book. With One Thou- 
 ^8and Scripture Pictures. Boards, 5s. ; cloth, 
 
 .'* 
 
 6d. 
 
 Daisy Dimple's Scrap Book. Containing 
 
 about 1,000 Pictures. Cloth gilt, 7s. 6d. 
 The History Scrap Book. With nearly 
 
 1,000 Engravings. 5s. ; cloth, 7S. 6d. 
 The Little Folks' Out and About Book. 
 
 By Chatty Cheerful. Illustrated, js. 
 Myself and my Friends. By Olive Patch. 
 
 With numerous Illustrations. Crown 4to. 5s. 
 A Parcel of Children. By Olive Patch. With 
 
 numerous Illustrations. Crown 4to. 5s. 
 Little Folks' Picture Album. With 168 
 
 L-arge Pictures. 5s. 
 Little Folks' Picture Gallery. With 150 
 
 Illustrations, ss. 
 
 The Old Fairy Tales. With Original Illus- 
 trations. Boards, is. ; cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 My Diary. With Twelve Coloured Plates and 
 366 Woodcuts. IS. 
 
 Happy Little People. By Olive Patch. With 
 Illustrations. JS. 
 
 "Little Folks ^' Alhiuu of Music, The. 
 Illustrated. 3s. fid. 
 
 Cheerful Clatter. Nearly One Hundred Full- 
 page Pictures. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Twilight Fancies. Full of charming Pictures. 
 Boards, as. 6d. 
 
 Happy Go Lucky. 2s. 
 
 Daisy Blue Eyes. ss. 
 
 Good Times, is. 6d. 
 
 Jolly Little Stories, is. 6d. 
 
 Our Little Friends, is. 6d. 
 
 Playful Hours, is. 6d. 
 
 Joyful Days. is. 6d. 
 
 Pleasure for All. is. 6d. 
 
 The Story of Eobin Hood. With Coloured 
 Illustrations. 2s. 6d. 
 
 The Pilgrim's Progress. With Coloured 
 Illustrations. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Books for Boys. 
 
 Ships, Sailors, and the Sea. By R. J. 
 Cornewall-Jones. Illustrated, gs. 
 
 Famous Sailors of Former Times, His- 
 tory of the Sea Fathers. By Clements 
 Marlcham. Illustrated. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Modern Explorers. By Thomas Frost. Illus- 
 trated. 5s. 
 
 Wild Adventures in Wild Places. By Dr. 
 Gordon Stables, M.D., R.N. Illustrated, ss. 
 
 Books for all Children. 
 
 Cassell's Robinson Crusoe. With 100 
 striking Illustrations. Cloth, 3s. 6d. ; gilt 
 edges, 5s. 
 
 Cassell's Swiss Family Robinson. Illus- 
 trated. Cloth, 3s. 6d. ; gilt edges, 5s. 
 
 Bunny Spain : Its People and Places, 
 with Glimpses of its History. By 
 Olive Patch. Illustrated. 5s. 
 
 Rambles Round London Town. By C. L. 
 Mateaux. Illustrated. 5s. 
 
 Familiar Friends. By Olive Patch. Illus- 
 trated. Cloth gilt, 5s. 
 
 Odd Folks at Home. By C. L. Matiaux. 
 With nearly 150 Illustrations, ss. 
 
 Field Friends and Forest Foes. By Olive 
 
 Patch. Profusely Illustrated. 5s. 
 
 Silver A?rings and Golden Scales. Illus- 
 trated. 5s. 
 
 Tiny Houses and their Builders. Illus- 
 trated. 5s. 
 
 Children of all Nations. Their Homes, their 
 Schools, their Playgrounds. Illustrated. 5s. 
 
 Around and about Old England. Illustrated. 
 Boards, 3s. 6d. ; cloth, gilt edges, 55. 
 
 Paws and Claws. Illustrated. Boards, 3s. 6d. ; 
 cloth, gilt edges, 5s. 
 
 Tim Trumble's " Little Mother." By C. L. 
 Mateaux. Illustrated. 5s. 
 
 CASSELL at COMPANY, Limited, Ludgate Hill, London, Paris, New 
 York & Afelbournc.