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Cornell University Library 
 
 SF 271.M75 4thed. 
 
 A. B. C. in cheese-making; a short manual 
 
 3 1924 003 012 998 
 
 ALBERT R. MANN 
 LIBRARY 
 
 New York State Colleges 
 
 OF 
 
 Agriculture and Home Economics 
 
 Cornell University 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tiiis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003012998 
 
The 4* 
 
 SWEEPSTAKE" 
 
 Babcock 
 
 MILK TESTER, 
 
 Ball 
 Bear- 
 ings 
 
 The bottles 
 are at the 
 bottom 
 
 The Sweepstake is furnished with 
 2 or 4 tubes as desired. 
 
 The most 
 .. practicali 
 highest 
 speeded, 
 easiest 
 running 
 tester 
 made . . • 
 
 The Best Hand Tester in the World and En- 
 dorsed by Leading Dairymen as Such. 
 
 GENERAL A6ENTS FOR ALPHA-DE LAVAL SEPARATORS 
 
 Boilers and Engines. 
 
 Rennet Extracts. 
 
 Sanitary Ideal Milk Pump. 
 
 Farrlngton Rlpeners. 
 
 Elgin Style White Ash Tubs. 
 
 Parchment Paper, etc. 
 
 Simplex Combined Churn. 
 
 Refrigerating Machines. 
 
 Potts Pasteairizers. 
 
 Penn "Wood Split Pulleys. 
 
 Pairchild's Kno- 
 
 Stearns' Sty^ Spruce Tubs. 
 
 Fairchild's Creamery Cleaner. 
 
 Wells, Rldhardson & Co.'s Improved 
 
 Butter Color. Climax Heaters. 
 The Talcott Improved Pasteurizer. 
 Hansen's Butter and Cheese Color. 
 Disbrow Combined Churn and Worket. 
 The Ideal Tester. Victor Engines. 
 Spruce Tubs. Cadillac Butter Salt. 
 Lusted Printers. Australian Boxes. 
 Germ Odorless Disinfectant. 
 
 Creamery Package Manufacturing Co., 
 
 1, 3 and 5 W. WASHINGTON ST., CHICAGO. 
 
 BRANCHES: Kansas City, Mo.; Minneapolis, Minn.; Waterloo, la.; Omaha, Neb 
 and Cowansville, Quebec, 
 
— IN 
 
 cheese:-maiiing 
 
 A SHORT MANUAL FOR FARM CHEESE-MAKERS 
 
 IN 
 
 CHEDDAR, GOUDA, DANISH EXPORT (Skim Cheese), 
 
 BRIE, FRENCH, NEUFCHATEL AND CREAM CHEESE; 
 SOUR MILK CHEESE, SUCH AS "HAND" CHEESE, 
 COTTAGE "SCHMIERKASE," "PULTOST" AND "NIEHEIMER": 
 ALSO "WHEY CHEESE" (Nonvegion.) 
 
 V.'> 
 
 '■'Y — BY 
 
 J. H. MONRAD 
 
 "WINNEXnA, ILL. 
 
 Clothilde ISOS 
 
 FOURTH EDITION 4> ^ PRICE 50 CENTS 
 
 f' 
 
 X^ 
 
n 
 
 F 
 7 1 
 
 /Mir 
 
 A 
 
 ^ -1 (^ t> 3 
 
 Ex-Governor W. D. 'Hoard, 
 
 Editor Hoard's Dairyman, Ft. Atkinson, Wis. 
 
 No other name is so intimately identified with the Dairy Interest of 
 the United States and in his sermons preached on the text, "Remember, 
 the cow is a mother, the calf is a baby," he has given the keynote to 
 successful dairying. 
 
S. M. Babcock, Ph. D. 
 
 S. M. Babcock, Ph. D., was born (1843) and reared on a dairy farm in Oneida Coanfcy, N. Y. In 
 1866 he graduated from coJlege and returned to the farm for a few years. In 1870 he studied chem- 
 istry at CJornell University, being assistant to Prof. Caldwell from 1875 to 1877, when he went to Ger- 
 many for two years, studying under Wobler Huebner. A±ter two years' further work at Cornell, he 
 was appointed Chemist at New York Experiment Station, leaving proof of his ability in the annual 
 reports, 1885, 1886 and 1887. Since 1887 Dr. Babcock's name has been connected with the Wisconsin 
 Experimental Station, and his studies of the fat globules in milk, the viscosity of milk, and lately 
 his work on cold curing of cheese, in connection with Dr. Bussell, etc., have proved him. to be the 
 best milk chemist i^ America. His milk test has created a revolution in the milk business, the 
 effect of which has hardly yet been realized even by our most advanced dairymen. High tribute as 
 I am bound to give him as a scientist, I cannot close this short biography without paying him just 
 as high tribute as a "teacher." I have several times, when in Madison, sat on the benches with 
 "the boys," and, young and old, they all follow his plain talk with the greatest interest, Good 
 natured, he is always ready to explain over again to the dull ones, and he is certainly an ideal 
 teacher. To know Dr. Babcock is to love and respect him. 
 
Mr. Joseph Harding. 
 
 Mr. Joseph Harding may be called the father of the Cheddar System, not that he made the first 
 Cheddar Cheese (that was made hundreds of years ago, when the village of Cheddar was "famous for 
 capital Cs — Cliffs and Caverns and Cheddar Cheese"), but he was the first man to systemize it, and 
 to teach rational cheese-making, and his memory is dear to all good cheese-makers. He not only 
 left his mark as a cheese-maker, teacher, and writer, but also left a large family of excellent 
 cheese-makers. One son is the pioneer cheese-maker in New South Wales; another I met in New 
 Zealand, where he operates several factories; one daughter is married to Mr. E. G. Jenkins, who 
 now lives on the old homestead in Marksbury, where I saw a grand-daughter of Harding make 
 cheese. Another daughter is married to Mr. G. Gibbons, of Tunley, who took sweepstakes for 
 cheese at New York Show, in 1878. Thus his good work is going on, and will go on as long as cows 
 give milk and cheese is made. 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 TO FIRST EDITION, 1889. 
 
 '*W'T is not my intention to write an elaborate treatise on, 
 v^W) fheese-making, — I should but make a failure of it, — but 
 ^^ to give a little advice to those farmers who are placed 
 in the same position in which I have been, that is, "as a 
 pioneer farmer, with a few cows, low prices for butter, good 
 prices for cheese among the neighbors, and no cheese factory 
 or maker within convenient reach from whom a few lessons 
 might be had." 
 
 The fact that I did not get further, by the end of two 
 years, than to find out that I did not know how to make a 
 really fine cheese, need not, according to many precedents, be 
 an objection to my writing on the 'subject. 
 
 Those who wish to run a factory can only learn their 
 trade by several years' apprenticeship in a factory,* combined 
 with careful study of books and papers. 
 
 Though the A B C is written as a guide for farm cheese- 
 making, I cannot abstain from making a few remarks to re- 
 move the impression that I should be in favor of general farm 
 ■dairying — compared with creameries and cheese factories — 
 far from it! While it is quite certain that better butter 
 aiid better cheese may be made on the farm, where the 
 maker controls the feeding of the cows and the handling 
 of the milk; yet, when this good butter or cheese comes 
 ■on the market it is drowned in the large quantities of 
 liad and indifferent produce, and sold at a lower price 
 than its intrinsic value entitles it to, unless indeed sold 
 direct to private customers. If a dealer is offered 101) 
 tubs of uniform butter, grading in third class, he will paj'' 
 more for them than for 100 tubs of mixed quality from first 
 class down to fifth or sixth, even though the average quality 
 be as high or even higher grade than the 100 tubs of uniform 
 butter. Herein lies the solution of the conundrum of so 
 many hard-working farmers' wives: "Why do my 10 pounds 
 of butter, which in reality are better than the IST. Is^.'s cream- 
 ery butter, not realize within four cents a pound of his?" 
 
 *and, I may add now In 1902, a course or two in a dairy school. 
 
Yes, we live in an age calling for uniformity, and the de- 
 mand for it exfends to all trades, to all manufactures. Tlius 
 while hundreds and thousands of farmers, with less than 
 forty cows, may find it to their advantage to make and mar- 
 ket their own butter, and exceptionally their own cheese, the 
 creameries and cheese factories are, and always will be, a 
 blessing to the great mass of farmers, especially so in the 
 great Northwest. But to get the full benefit of this system, 
 the farmers must learn to do their share of the work honestly. 
 
 I do not refer to actual fraud by adulterating the milk, 
 but to honesty in feeding and watering the cows; honesty in 
 cleanliness and care of the milk by cooling, and honesty in 
 prompt and regular delivery. If the farmers would do this, 
 their reward would come — it may be — slowly but surely in 
 the shape of better returns. A system of strictly co-operative 
 factories will be the only way to promote this honesty — to 
 educate, effectually, through the pocket-book. We may have 
 gone too far in our ambition to make large quantities in one 
 place, and consequently sacrificed quality. 
 
 If any young lady (whose father has only from six to 
 twelve cows) is wondering what to do, let her look round 
 among her neighbors who have no children, or only young 
 ones at home, upon whose honesty she may rely, and start a 
 co-operative creamery or cheese factory, after training for that 
 occupation, and I venture to say that she will be more happy 
 than in the school room or shop, and make quite as much 
 money. 
 
 This kind of small factory should not handle more milk 
 than will make 100 pounds of cheese or 60 to 100 pounds- of 
 butter per day, and if we ever get schools for training butter 
 and cheese-makers, we may even thus obtain uniform quan- 
 tities without loss in quality. A strictly co-operative factory 
 is one owned and paid for by the farmers, in proportion to 
 the size of their herd. It is one where the milk is paid for- 
 not only in proportion to the quantity of milk delivered but 
 to the quality as well. 
 
 There is plenty of room for both the private and co-oper- 
 ative dairy, and we should all strive to work in unison. I 
 would not have written this lengthy introduction, if I had not 
 feared that this publication might have been understood to 
 encourage a general return to farm dairying. 
 
 WiNNKTKA, III., 1889. 
 
 J. H. MONEAD. 
 
PREFACE TO SECOND AND FOURTH EDITIONS. 
 
 It would be false modesty not to express my satisfaction 
 at the call for a second edition of this little book. 
 
 Considering the letters I have received from those who 
 read the first edition, I presume I am right in extending it 
 somewhat. Since 3889 we have been endowed with Dairy 
 Schools in several states, and in some of themi the making of 
 several kinds of cheese is taught. Nevertheless there are 
 thousands of farmers' wives and daughters who cannot afford 
 to go to a school and who want to make cheese, and it is to 
 this class that I dedicate this book. Too little cheese is eaten 
 in America and less on the farms than in the cities. There 
 are several reasons for this, notably the making of a lot of 
 poor half or whole skim cheese, which are palmed off by the 
 retailers as full cream at an enormous profit. But I really 
 believe that ignorance of the nutritive value of a full cream 
 cheese is also to blame for it. How many housekeepers 
 realize that — as Prof. Sheldon says — : "Pound for pound 
 cheese contains more nutriment than butcher's meat, and it 
 may with advantage be used instead of it, and especially so, 
 as they may both be called animal food." Think of this, you 
 pioneer farmers' wives who ring the change on bacon and 
 eggs and eggs and bacon, with only an occasional stop for the 
 expensive "butcher's meat" or the festive chicken. Where 
 creameries take the milk, and are not prepared to make 
 cheese for the patrons and where there is no factory in the 
 community, it will certainly pay some of the farmers to make 
 enough cheese for themselves and their neighbors if not for 
 shipment. Why deprive yourself of one of the cheapest and 
 healthiest luxuries, a well cured, honest, full cream cheese 
 or the still cheaper, equally healthy nourishment, a well made 
 and properly cured skim cheese? 
 
 Part of this book does not exactly belong to an "A B C," 
 but I believe that very often the making of cheese on the farm 
 may develop into a cheese factory by making up the milk 
 from the nearest neighbors at first and thus emphasize the 
 benefit of cooperation in this as in so many other things. 
 When this stage is reached, there will not be found any super- 
 fluous information in the reading or the advertising matter. 
 
 In publishing the fourth edition, I have only to thank 
 those of my readers who have sent me kind and encouraging 
 letters, and to state that the book has been revised and 
 brought "up to date." J. H. MONEAD. 
 
THE BASIS OF SUCCESSFUL DAIRY FARMING. 
 
 The testing of each cow at least once a week as to quan- 
 tity and quality is the basis of all successful dairying, as in 
 only too many cases the poor cows in a herd eat up the profit 
 of the good ones. Better to have six good cows than twelve 
 medium good. The Babcock Test enables any farmer to de- 
 termine the value of each cow's milk as easily as an expert 
 chemist, and no farmer who owns ten cows or more ought 
 to be without one, unless they belong to a "Test Association." 
 Dealers in Dairy Supplies all keep these testers and give full 
 directions for their use, but I advise always to buy of a re- 
 sponsible firm who will guarantee the exact graduation of 
 the bottles, the proper speed and no vibration, even if it cost 
 a dollar or two more. 
 
 I have inserted the picture of Dr. Babcock because the 
 importance of his invention cannot be over estimated, and I 
 want everv Dairv Farmer to know him as their best friend. 
 
 COMPOS'ITIOX OF MILK. 
 
 "Milk is an emulsion of butter-fat in a watery solution of 
 albuminous matter (casein or cheese matter and albumenj, 
 milk sugar and mineral matter.'' — Dr. fi. M. Bahcoclv. 
 
 One hundred pounds of milk consists on a rough average 
 of SH lbs of water and 12-1 lbs of solid matter, namely: 
 
 Water 87% pounds 
 
 Butter fat (making about 4 pounds butter) 3^ pounds 
 
 Albuminoids (casein and albumen) 3% pounds 
 
 Milk-sugar and mineral matter 5% pounds 
 
 100 pounds 
 
 While the butter-fat may vary from 2^ pounds up to 7 
 pounds, the casein and other solids only vary from 8^ to 10 
 pounds. It will thus be seen that of all the constituents of 
 milk the butter-fat is most variable. 
 
 New milk is worth, say, f»(l cents per 100 pounds on an 
 average, and skim milk is valued only at 1.5 or 20 cents per 
 100 jiounds, even if judicious feeding ought to make it wortli 
 23 or 30 cents. 
 
 While at the first glance it seems unfair to value milk 
 for cheese-making, according to the butter-fat, as the other 
 solids do not vary nearly as niucli, yet it has been demon- 
 strated that, practically, the cheese yield varies nearly in 
 proportion as the fat, because the more butter-fat a cheese 
 contains the more water it is able to retain, and its intrinsii- 
 value increases with the fat. 
 
9 
 
 COMPOSITION OF CHEESE. 
 
 In ino pounds of good average cheddar cheese (full cream) 
 vve find about: 
 
 Water 32 pounds. 
 
 Butter-fat 35 pounds. 
 
 Casein 26 pounds. 
 
 Milk-sugar and mineral matter 7 pounds. 
 
 100 pounds. 
 Eoughly estimated, full cream' cheese consists of one- 
 third each of water, butter-fat and casein. As milk contains 
 about 3^ per cent, each of butter-fat and casein, we should 
 therefore obtain 11 pounds of cheese from 100 pounds of milk, 
 if all of the fat and casein could be got into the cheese. As 
 a matter of fact, however, part of these matters is lost in the 
 whey, and consequently we only get from 9 to 10 pounds of 
 cured cheese from average milk. 
 
 WHAT THE CHEJDSE-MAKER HAS TO DO. 
 
 "The extremely fine globules of 'butter-fat are evenly dis- 
 tributed through the whole mass of new milk. If the milk 
 is left to stand for some time, the butter globules will rise 
 to the top, forming with some of the watery solution a layer 
 of cream, whereas the other solids remain dissolved in the 
 water. 
 
 "If sweet milk is left to sour, the milk-sugar turning into 
 lactic acid, it will lopper or thicken, the casein or cneese mat- 
 ter being precipitated or changing into an insoluble matter. 
 By adding some other acid, as muriatic or acetic acid, the 
 same thickening takes place in sweet milk. 
 
 "A similar precipitation or separation of the casein is 
 caused, without the presence of any acid, when rennet is 
 added to milk under favorable conditions. We say that the 
 milk curdles or coagulates. But the composition or quality 
 of the precipitate (curd) produced by rennet is different from 
 that formed by acid, and while acid is used for making a few- 
 peculiar kinds of so-called cheese, like the German "Schmier- 
 kase," or cottage cheese, it is only by the help of rennet that 
 regular cheese can be made. When the milk is thickened by 
 rennet, it is at first one uniform mass, but assisted by cutting 
 or gentle stirring, and by heat, the whey in which the albu- 
 men, milk-sugar and mineral matters remain dissolved is soon 
 expelled, leaving the casein combined with some water, and 
 
10 
 
 enclosing the butter globules, as a solid matter which forms 
 
 the cheese. 
 
 "In composition albumen is very much like casein, but it 
 differs from the latter by not being coagulated by rennet. It 
 may be coagulated by boiling, however, and in Switzerland 
 the" so-called Zieger cheese is made by boiling the whey and 
 skimming off the coagulated albumen. 
 
 "In ordinary cheese-making the larger part of the albu- 
 men, milk-sugar and mineral matters remain in the whey, and 
 do not enter into the cheese." — J. D. Frederiksen. 
 
 Let us now first briefly consider the main points in the 
 'treatment of the milk and curd, before describing each manip- 
 ulation more fully. 
 
 The aim of the cheese-maker is to separate the casein and 
 butter-fat in combination with water, from the other matters 
 in the milk, in such a manner as to obtain the special kind of 
 cheese which he wishes to produce. 
 
 The butter fat, being in a state of emulsion, needs no 
 special device to make it separate ; indeed, the object is rather 
 to retain it in a fine emulsion (mixture), until the separation of 
 casein takes place, that the fat may be distributed (or en- 
 cased) evenly in the cheese. The first step, therefore, is to 
 coagulate the casein with rennet. 
 
 RENNET 
 
 is an extract of the fourth stomach of a calf, that never had 
 anything but its mother's milk (that of a pig or lam'b may also 
 be used). The difficulties of getting a uniform home-made 
 rennet preparation are great, and the least taint is highly dan- 
 gerous, therefore, when Chr. Hansen, of Copenhagen, Den- 
 mark, some 37 years ago introduced his liquid Eennet Ex- 
 tract, he was hailed by the Swiss, French and English cheese- 
 makers as a public benefactor; and though there are some 
 equally good extracts in the market mow (such as Van Has- 
 selt's), his Extract and Rennet Tablets are justly considered 
 as standard. The little extra cost of using a reliable "com- 
 mercial" rennet is nothing compared to the advantage of 
 having a pure and uniform rennet. 
 
 To obtain the best results, it is important that the milk 
 should be in the right condition and of the right temperature ; 
 also that the right quantity of rennet should be used, so as to 
 produce a curd which will develop as desired at the latter 
 stages of the process. 
 
11 
 
 The milk being curdled, the next step is to cut or break the 
 curd, so as to allow the whey to escape. In order to further 
 expel the whey, the curd is then heated up towards 100 deg., 
 which is called cooking or scalding. Next the whey is drawn, 
 and a certain degree of acidity is allowed to develop in the 
 curd, or most of the whey may be left on the curd until the 
 proper amount of acid has developed. To check any forma- 
 tion of acid beyond the desired amount, the curd is then 
 salted, and finally it is put to press. On leaving the press, the 
 cheese is placed in the curing-room to ripen. 
 
 These are briefly the main stages in the process. Elach 
 treatment is destined to assist or .check the effect of another, 
 and must be varied according to the condition of the milk or 
 curd. 
 
 GUESSWOKK \0T ALLOWABLE. 
 
 Measuring milk, or, still worse, "guessing" at the quan- 
 tity should never be done. The only right way is to weigh 
 the milk. A reliable thermometer is also highly necessary, 
 and the cheese-makers who, to save a few cents, buy a rennet 
 preparation or cheese color made by incompetent or unreli- 
 able manufacturers, deserve their inevitable punishment — ^that 
 is — a cheese which is not uniform and often off flavored. 
 There are surely enough uncertainties to combat in cheese 
 making, without wilfully increasing their number. Weigh 
 the milk, measure your rennet extract and color, weigh your 
 salt, and weigh your cheese when taken from press and when 
 sold. Make a memorandum of every little detail, not only 
 in the manufacture, but in the other circumstances, such as 
 the temperature and the moisture of the air, etc., and study 
 the effect on each cheese! If you do this, you will learn 
 twice as quickly as those who neglect it. I give a table 
 (page 13) of Cheese-making Record (also adapted for skim- 
 milk cheese), which T used myself, and which any one may 
 modify to suit himself, inserting of course a column for the 
 per cent, of fat in the milk by the Babcock Test, and the 
 relative moisture in the curing room'. While I shall not waste 
 printers' ink on preaching cleanliness, I may say, that unless 
 it is observed in the highest degree, we admit not one but 
 hundreds of uncertainties into the manufacture; in fact, just 
 as many different fermentations, which our lack of cleanli- 
 ness may breed. 
 
12 
 
 TREATMENT OF THE EVENING'S MILK. 
 
 MY FLANNEL STEAINEE. 
 
 The best strainer I found to be (1) a flne wire one to catch 
 any hairs or straws that might be in the milli, and (2) a piece 
 
 of white flannel, which I sus- 
 pended on the four nails that 
 kept four pieces of sticks to- 
 gether. The sticks to be 
 ^ long enough to rest on the 
 can or tub into which the 
 Fig. 1. milk is strained, and the flan- 
 
 nel to be allowed to sag in the middle. It will astonish some 
 people who think thev strain their milk well, if they will try 
 to run it through the flannel afterwards! A new piece must 
 be provided when the old one "felts" so much as to make the 
 straining too hIovo. 
 
 The evening's milk should be strained 
 into common shot-gun cans (Fig. 2) or any 
 suitable vessel which in warm weather is 
 placed in- cold water or otherwise kept 
 cool till next morning, and it is a good 
 plan to stir the milk well before going to 
 bed. partly to help it cool quickly and aer- 
 ate, partly to prevent too much cream 
 from rising. Many makers lay great 
 stress on aerating the milk as well as cool- 
 ing, and if the air in the room is 'pure, it 
 can do no harm; but I confess that I have no belief in the 
 talking and writing about the animal odor, which should be 
 expelled. In nine cases out of ten the animal odor will be 
 found to be "muck," which too often gets into the milk, and 
 which no straininig will separate! Aerating in any special 
 manner is not necessary with [)nrc eJcan milk; but, as that is 
 very hard to get, several devices have been constructed for the 
 aeration of milk. This aeration is obtained by causing the 
 milk to run in fine streams through the air before reaching 
 the can and the siniulest I have seen is a bucket (with per- 
 forated bottom) placed about two feet above the milk can. 
 (Figure :^. represents one sold by D. H. Rurrell & Co.) The 
 
 Fig. 
 
13 
 
 (* 
 
 ^ 
 
 % 
 
 SN ■ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ha 
 
 t 
 
 ^- 
 
 
 ^S 
 
 Nt. 
 
 ^ 
 
 > 
 
 i^ 
 
 Date 
 New Milk. 
 
 Shin Milk. 
 
 Butter Milk.. 
 
 _Xa^»vAxvv A 
 
 Color. 
 
 1^0^'>M~^ 
 
 
 RennetR 
 
 Room, 
 
 SET. 
 
 Cooked 
 
 3 
 
 CuWDArlte 
 
 CoA&IILATiflN 
 
 GOOKIN&: 
 
 DnAININir^ 
 
 PftESSiNfr^ 
 
 ■CUUA^yi^ 
 
 SAtT; 
 
 IBS 
 
 id 
 
 I"- 
 
 3-' 
 
 
 Temp 
 mCua"nl6RooM. 
 
 HESS 
 
 CBS 
 
 From PaEss 
 
 UB&MlLIC' 
 LBCHEESe. 
 
 ^ 
 o 
 
 WHENOOID 
 
 on 
 
 « 
 
 o 
 
 7^ 
 
 pa 
 
 o 
 
 ;i3 
 
 r^ 
 
 51 !^ 
 
14 
 
 milk is then strained into this bucket. I need not warn 
 against setting the cans in any place where the 
 milk may absorb taint from the atmosphere. 
 On an average, it is best to have it cooled down 
 to 70 degrees before going to bed. Most fac- 
 tory cheese-makers maintain that the night's 
 milk should only be cooled slightly or not at 
 all but only aerated by dipping or otherwise as 
 it is desirable to have it ripen to a certain ex- 
 tent; how much, depends on the quality and 
 condition of the milk. Nor can it be denied 
 that such as the average milk delivered to the 
 factories is, the aeration and its following de- 
 Aelopment of Lactic acid bacteria seems to 
 tend to check the development of any taint 
 bacteria, and in so far is desirable, but I 
 must remind the 
 readers of the fact 
 Fig. 3. that cold also de- 
 
 lays the development of bacteria 
 and hence I believe in those com- 
 bined aerators and coolers. Of 
 these I mention first of all those 
 constructed on the "Lawrence" 
 plan such as the "Star" (Fig. 4), 
 the "Eeid"' and Vermont Farm 
 Machine Co.'s cooler, and those 
 constructed on the Schmith plan, 
 like the clipper made by Sturges 
 & Burn Mfg. Co. (Fig. 4^). 
 Where water is scarce and ice has to be used the Champion 
 (Fig. 5), or similar coolers which are constructed on the plan 
 of McPherson's Cooler, may be preferred. 
 
 PREPARING FOR "SETTING" THE MILK. 
 
 I shall suppose we have 74 lbs. evening milk 
 and 12G lbs. of morning milk (we have set aside 
 milk for the calves and the household from the 
 evening's milk, and only taken new milk for 
 the baby and youngest calf from the morning's 
 milk). After weighing the morning's milk it 
 is at once strained into the cheese-tub, and 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 41/2. 
 
15 
 
 covered with a light wooden cover, or with a clean cloth, 
 supported by a couple of sticks laid across the tub (vat). The 
 tub or vat ought to stand in a room at lest in a temperature 
 of 70 deg., but never in a drafty place. I had considerable 
 trouble on stormy days, when I had my vat standing on a 
 veranda. We then skim the creami off the evening's milk, 
 and take along with it enough milk to make, let us say, 30 
 lbs. ; this is put aside in a can to be heated. 
 
 For cheese-tub {Bee Fig. 17) may be used any common 
 tub, or a tight wooden box, not more than 20 inches deep. 
 A whiskey barrel cut in two makes a very 
 good tub, but should be made perfectly 
 smooth, so as to be easy to clean ; but the 
 cheapest in the long run is to get a box 
 lined with good tinned steel. 
 
 The remainder of the night's milk (44 
 lbs.) is poured into the cheese tub, and 
 stirred into the morning's milk, and the 
 temperature, when taken, is found to be, 
 let us say, 77 deg. The thirty lbs. of 
 cream and milk is then heated, so that 
 when it is mixed with the other milk the 
 whole mass is 82 to 84 deg. How high 
 the 30 lbs. should be heated may be guessed at, and the result 
 will be that if we get it too cold we must dip out some milk 
 and heat again, or if too warm we must cool it, by means 
 which I shall describe later. But the right way to do it is 
 to save manual labor, by a little brain work, and to calcu- 
 late the exact temperature to which the 30 lbs. should bo 
 heated. 
 
 We have 170 lbs. of milk in the vat, at a temperature of 
 77 deg., which we wish to raise to 84 deg., or 7 deg. higher. 
 Multiply 170 by 7 and we get 1190, divide this with the num- 
 ber of pounds of milk (and cream) which we wish to heat — 
 in this case 30 lbs. — and we get 89 2-3 deg., to which the 30 
 lbs. shall be heated over and above the 84 deg., or 123 2-3 deg. 
 But as no portion of the milk should ever be heated above 
 120 deg., we take 33 lbs. and heat it to 120 deg. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
16 
 
 HOW TO HEAT AND COOL THE MILK. 
 
 If we have an open boiler, the milk is heated in a shot-gun 
 can or tin bucket placed right in the boiling water, but it must 
 be stirred all the while unless the water is as low as 140 deg., 
 when it may be left alone, though the heating takes much 
 longer if not stirred. This way of heating I have found the 
 best, as it is always necessary to have a large boiler for heat- 
 ing water for cleaning purposes, and is much safer than heat- 
 ing it over a direct lire. The cooling may be done either by 
 placing the can holding the milk in a tub of cold water, stir- 
 ring the milk all the while, or, if the milk is in a tub, by filling 
 a can, carefully cleaned on the outside, with cold water or ice 
 and stirring the milk with it. If a shot-gun can is hung in 
 a cord over the center of the vat, a child can keep it moving 
 in the milk with one hand, holding the thermometer with the 
 other. 
 
 ADDING THE COLOR AND RENNET. 
 
 Fig. I, 
 
 AYe now have the 200 lbs. of milk at 84 deg., and if we are 
 afraid that it is not ripe enough, we may adopt the old Ched- 
 dar system, used by the late Joseph Harding (the father of 
 systematic cheddar making), and add some sour whey. I do not 
 recommend it, as it is a dangerous practice, and may propagate 
 fault from one day's milk to another ; yet it has been used by 
 some very good makers. The safest plan is to heat up the 
 milk a little higher and leave it for an hour or two to cool 
 down to 84 deg. while it ripens. Or we may use a starter 
 prepared from the lactic ferment or culture used for cream 
 ripening. But this knowledge of the right condition of the 
 milk for adding the rennet is one of the nice points in cheese- 
 making, which experience only can tell. Mr. R. J. Drum- 
 raond, of Ingersoll, Canada, who lectured in Scotland and 
 gave practical lessons, used what he calls the rennet test, 
 first introduced by Mr. J. B. Harris, of Antwerp, N. Y. He 
 measured off 4 oz. milk at 84 deg. into a cup, and, from a 
 
17 
 
 Fig. 6%. 
 
 Tery flue measure, added 1 dram Hansen's Rennet Extract. 
 If coagulation commenced in 26 seconds he added the rennet; 
 if it took longer, he let the vat stand. I have suggested a 
 more accurate test for factory makers (Fig. 6) whereby 5cc 
 (cubic centimeters) rennet is diluted with water to 50cc and 
 of this 5cc is added to 160cc milk. In any case it will be 
 more accurate to measure the rennet with a pipette rather 
 than a measuring glass. The later-discovered Marshall Ren- 
 net Test (Fig. 6i) is, however, much simpler and should be 
 used in every factory. It con- 
 sists of a graduated cup (a) 
 in the bottom of which there 
 is a very fine hole, ^e Ren- 
 net extract is diluted in the 
 glass (c) by measuring Ice 
 with the pipette (b) into the 
 water in the glass previously 
 filled to the mark. Ice is 
 taken of the diluted extract 
 and after filling the milk into the cup the rennet is added 
 the minute the milk is run out to the upper mark, and stirred 
 with the spatel (d). The whole is sold in a neat box shown 
 ill the illustration. The sweeter the milk is the more will 
 run out before coagulation stops it. Thus if the cheese- 
 maker has found that when the milk stops running at the 
 
 3 mark, his milk is in the proper condition to add the rennet, 
 then he wants the test to show 3 every day, and if it shows 
 
 4 or more he will ripen the milk more by letting it stand 
 some time warm (with or without the addition of a 
 starter) before adding the rennet, repeating the test at 
 intervals until it shows 3. If, on the other hand, the test 
 shows 2, the maker will know that his milk is already too 
 sour and he will hurry on the manipulations, and take such 
 measures as experience has taught him to be necessary in such 
 cases in order to get a good cheese. 
 
 Before adding the rennet we must carefully stir in the 
 coloring; this is essential, and it is safest to dilute the color 
 with water before adding it. Hansen's Color Tablets are very 
 handy as they can be sent by mail. If liquid rennet extract 
 is used, it is then measured off in the graduated glass (Fig. 7) 
 
18 
 
 at the rate of 2 to 4 ounces for 1000 lbs. of milk, 
 or 5 to 10 drams for 200 lbs., according to the 
 quality and condition of the milk. (For farm 
 cheese-making Hansen's Eennet Tablets are 
 very handy to use. The number of tablets re- 
 quired are counted, dissolved in pure water, and 
 the solution is added to the milk). Stir well for ^^^ ^ 
 
 four or five minutes, and stir now and then 
 nently on the surface, up to within five minutes of commenc- 
 luj coagulation, so as to prevent the cream from rising, but 
 take care to stop in time, that the coagulation be not dis- 
 turbed. 
 
 Cover the vat, and if a reliable uniform rennet is used in 
 the light quantity, it may be left for about half an hour with- 
 out any attention, while we chop a little firewood or otherwise 
 amuse ourselves. After that it must be watched closely, and 
 whenever the curd breaks or splits clean before a finger passed 
 through it, it is time to cut it. 
 
 CHEDDAli CHEESE. 
 
 DIFFERENT QUANTITIES OF RENNET USED. 
 
 When, in the spring of 1887, I visited Mr. D. M. McPher- 
 son, of Lancaster, Ont., who controls 66 factories, he used 3^ 
 ouni rs of Hansen's Extract for 1000 lbs. of milk, but said he 
 should use less later on. With an extract of uniform strength, 
 it depends upon a great many things how much to use. I 
 have heard Prof. Robertson, another Canadian expert, recom- 
 mend to use as much as 8 ounces, and, if the cheese is to be 
 cured at the modern extreme low tempciatures, that may not 
 be too much. Yet I believe that the following rule holds good: 
 "Much rennet — quick ripe and early decayed;" and this bal- 
 ancing of the work of the acid and the rennet is another fine 
 jjoint in cheese-making. 
 
 Gommciichifi coagulation shows in about one-third of the 
 time it takes to be ready for cutting. Thus: If commencing co- 
 agulation shows in 20 minutes, it will be ready in 60 minutes. 
 A Cheddar cheese ought to take from 45 to 60 minutes. The 
 tendency in later years has been to commence cutting rather 
 earlier and placing the total as 2^ times longer than the time 
 
19 
 
 in showing commencing coagulation will be nearer the mark. 
 Thus if it shows commencing coagulation in 20 minutes, it will 
 he ready to cut in 50 minutes, but of course no fixed rule can 
 be laid down. Always use measuring glass, Pig. 7. 
 
 CUTTING THE CURD. 
 
 If the curd is left without cutting, it will take hours for 
 the whey to separate and show partly on top of the curd, but 
 by cutting it, the pores of the curd are opened, and the 
 whey escapes. The cutting may be done by any knife 
 long enough, which can be made at home of tin or of 
 hard wood (Fig. 8). The blade should be 20 inches 
 long; if of wood, not more than J inch thick and 2 or 3 
 inches wide, and it should be sharp on both sides, and 
 perfectly smooth. With this the curd is cut crosswise 
 into 6 or 7 inch squares 
 (Fig. 9), taking care that it 
 is cut right down to the 
 bottom of the vat. Having 
 fl done this it is well to leave 
 U the vat covered for five 
 Fig. 8. minutes. The next imple- 
 ment to be used is a common 
 skimmer (Fig. 10) with which the 
 curd is gently broken by inserting 
 it slowly and then gently lifting 
 it up, allowing the curd to break by its own weight (Fig. 11). 
 When the whole mass is thus reduced to cubes of 2 or 3 
 inches, it is left again for about 5 or 10 minutes. The next 
 tool used can also be made at home, and consists of 3 pieces 
 of wood (Fig. 12), joined together with 10 brass rods, 10 
 inches long, i inch thick, with about one inch space between 
 the rods. The middle piece of wood is extended into a 
 handle. With this shovel the curd is gently stirred, break- 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 Fig. 10. Fig. 11. 
 
 ing up the pieces, until they average only ^ or i inch in 
 diameter. If the cheese is inclined to be too dry, do not cut 
 
20 
 
 quite as fine; if too moist, cut finer. This operation should be 
 made carefully, so as to keep the whey 
 clear and not cloudy or milky. An old 
 rule says that you must be able to use 
 the whey as a looking glass, and I suf- 
 fered agonies by not being able to see 
 my face clearly; but according to what I 
 have seen later at some of the best cheese 
 factores, I believe that standard to be a 
 little too high! 
 
 AMERICAN KNIVES THE BEST. 
 
 Fig. 12. If cash is available, and the making perpenaicui.r 
 more extensive, it is well to invest in a vertical Fig. il 
 (Fig. 13) and a horizontal (Fig. 14) knife. The vertical knife 
 may be imitated at home, as I did, with five pieces of smooth 
 hoop iron, 20 inches long, riveted to- 
 gether, one or | inch apart, in a handle 
 of wood (Fig. 15). When these knives 
 are used, cut the curd with the verti- 
 cal knife crosswise at right angles, the 
 same as when using the single knife; 
 leave five minutes, and then cut with 
 the horizontal knife, and you have the 
 curd at once in one or f inch cubes. 
 This is the triumph of American inven- 
 tion, so far as cheese-making is con- 
 cerned. When the horizontal knife 
 (Fig. 14) is used, there is no need of the 
 shovel (Fig. 12). Some prominent makers advocate 
 the use of the horizontal knife first, and others claim it does 
 not matter which. 
 
 A 
 
 Horizontal. 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 COOKING OR SCALBING THE CURD. 
 
 Both these terms are misleading. The object is to heat 
 the curd gradually to a point favorable for expelling the moist- 
 ure. This is done by dipping off some of the whey, heating it 
 to 140 deg., and pouring it back into the vat. When the curd 
 is fine, as above, it is left to settle, and as soon as possible, part 
 of the whey is dipped off into a can or tin pail. I have found 
 
21 
 
 it very convenient to insert a common large hair sieve into the 
 mass, allowing the whey to get into it, and then dip it out with 
 any cup or can that comes handiest. This will prevent any 
 particles of the curd from getting into the whey, which is 
 heated up to 140 deg. If it takes too long to heat the whey, 
 the curd should meanwhile be stirred up gently to prevent it 
 from matting. In reality there is less damage in keeping it 
 well stirred than in allowing it to mat, as in the latter case, 
 new surfaces will be opened on the little curd pieces, and more 
 butter fat allowed to escape. A common hay rake, with the 
 handle cut short, will do to stir with, or better still (especially 
 for large vats), is McPherson's rake, described later on. For 
 a small round tub, I have found that a wooden handle of same 
 ■shape as that shown on Fig. 15, with long, round wooden teeth, 
 instead of the hoop iron, will do the stirring satisfactorily. 
 For factory use the Pohl Automatic Curd Agitator is highly 
 recommended by New York state cheese instructors. 
 
 When the dipped off whey is 140 deg., enough is poured 
 back into the vat to raise the heat of the whole mass about 2 
 •deg., stirring all the while, and for five minutes afterwards. 
 This is to ensure that every little particle of curd assumes the 
 :same temperature. Then more whey is added to raise it an- 
 other 2 deg., and so on, with five minutes stirring between 
 •each addition, until the whole mass is from 96 to 102 deg. 
 
 Here is a nice point in cheese-making. The heating of the 
 •curd promotes acidity, and acidity promotes the separation of 
 whey, and as a standard cheese should have about 30 per cent. 
 'Of water, we must, by experience, learn to know how to com- 
 bine the effect of coarse or fine cutting with low or high "cook- 
 ing," in order to obtain the desired result. 
 
 In my description above, I have followed the old accepted 
 Cheddar gospel — to be very slow in raising the heat; as the 
 theory is, that by heating too quickly, the curd pieces contract 
 too suddenly, and a skin forms which keeps the whey enclosed 
 instead of allowing it to escape. But McPherson is of another 
 opinion. He thinks that the skin formed by contraction is 
 • enough to hold the butter -fat, but that it allows the whey to 
 filter through; and I saw him heat up a vat 8 deg. in twelve 
 minutes. 
 
 He is certainly one of our most successful commercial 
 ■ cheese-makers, making hundreds of tons of uniform cheese; 
 
22 
 
 but for the very finest, sloio curinrj cheese, perhaps old Hard- 
 ing was right. His daughters and grandchildren, all success- 
 ful cheese-makers, adhere to the slower cooking of the curd- 
 Perhaps it is a case of "many roads leading to Eome!" 
 
 REDUCE THE WHEY IN THE VAT, 
 
 During the "cooking," the whey is reduced so as to just 
 cover the curd; this will enable us to draw the balance 
 quickly, when ready for it. 
 
 HOT WATER ilAY BE I'SEP). 
 
 In order to use the first whey dipped olf perfectly sweet, 
 for feeding purposes or for making whey cheese, hot (140 
 deg.) water may be substituted; and it is well to remember 
 that the value of the irhri/ depends on its not getting sour. 
 Sweet whey in connection with bran will astonish those who 
 never tried it for pig-raising, or even for calf-raising. 
 
 THE "cooking'' process MUCH SIMrLIFIED. 
 
 If we can 
 afford (instead 
 of the plain 
 tub) to get a 
 square t i n - 
 lined vat, 20 
 inches deep, 
 and large 
 enough for our 
 purpose, it 
 will save la- 
 bor, and if the 
 tin vat is 
 placed in the Pjg ^ 
 
 wooden one, 
 
 su as to leave 2 or 3 inches room for hot or cold water, much 
 labor is saved, and if it is intended to extend the manufacture, 
 
23 
 
 AN OUTFIT FOR CHEESE-MAKING FROM TWENTY-KIVF, COWS 
 
 may be bought at the following prices : 
 
 1 86 Gal. Self -heating Vat (similar to Fig. 16) .$i5 00 
 
 2 Press Screws (Fig. 30) , . . . ■ J 00 
 
 1 Vertical Curd Knife, 6 blades 2 00 
 
 C T-inch Cheese Hoops with Followers 9 00 
 
 (Or 2 U^-inch Hoops with Followers, |5.0()). 
 
 1 Dipper . . .- ^-J 
 
 1 Curd Rake ^^5 
 
 1 Set Stencils 1 50 
 
 2 Thermometers .... 50 
 
 1 4-oz. Measuring Glass 50 
 
 Total 
 
 .|(!4 60 
 
 more or less. 
 
 A FARM CHEESE DAIRY. 
 
 Or, as steam boilers now are so very cheap and handy for 
 other purposes, it may be found more satisfactory to buy an 
 outfit as Illustrated in "a farm cheese dairy," and the follow- 
 ing estimate, which may be modified, should be enough for a 
 forty cow dairy will cost about: 
 
24 
 
 1 100 Gallon "B. & W." Steam and Water Cheese Vat.|35 00 
 
 Improved Upright Dairy Boiler, or Steam Heater 35 00 
 
 1 8-Blade Perpendicular Curd Knife 2 00 
 
 1 4-in. Horizontal Curd Knife 2 75 
 
 Single Y. A. Gang Cheese Press 25 00 
 
 10 Y. A. Gang Press Hoops, 7 in. diameter 13 40 
 
 3 heavy Upright Press Screw, with nut complete .... 2 50 
 
 3 14J in. Upright Press Hoop 5 00 
 
 1 gallon Dipper 
 
 Curd Eake 
 
 Set Stencils for i) months. 
 4 oz. Measuring Glass. . . . 
 Thermometers 
 
 65 
 75 
 1 50 
 20 
 50 
 
 $123 20 
 ilake up your mind how many cows you propose to milk, 
 estimate the maximum milk yield and then write to the vari- 
 ous dairy supply houses and get estimates. 
 
 At the World's Fair a very simple and cheap outfit (Fig. 
 18) was shown by Mr. Armstrong, and consists of a square 
 vat with a double bottom, giving a water space, a lamp to 
 heat it, two knives and a simple press; it is all there is needed 
 to make 10 lbs. of cheese. 
 
 Fig. IS. 
 
STIRRING THE CURD. 
 
 The curd is now stirred until it feels "shotty," or is hard 
 enough to rub between the fingers without sticking together. 
 And here again we meet a point which requires experience 
 and careful watching. After this point is reached, the curd 
 is allowed to settle, and the whey is drawn, by placing the vat 
 or tub a little slanting (Fig. 17), piling the curd up at one side. 
 
 A small hole with a plug in may be 
 used to draw the whey, thus saving 
 the trouble of dipping it out. The 
 whey should be got off before any 
 perceptible acid has developed, and 
 the curd is then left to drain, it be- 
 ing kept covered, so as to keep the 
 temperature from falling too much. 
 In one place in Scotland I saw them 
 ^*^- !''■ cover it with several layers of bag- 
 
 ging dipped in hot water. 
 
 CHEDDARING THE CURD. 
 
 While lying thus for about 30 minutes, the curd will mat 
 together, and incisions are made with a knife to promote the 
 draining of the whey. Later it is cut into cubes of about six 
 inches, and these pieces are changed, so that the outside pieces 
 come in the center, and thus an even heat is maintained 
 through it all. Every .30 minutes the pieces are subdivided 
 and turned, keeping them well covered. Acidity develops, 
 the whey drains out (perfectly clear now), and the curd as- 
 sumes a darker color. The cheese is "cheddaring" or ripen- 
 ing. To decide when it is ripe is the last of the more diflScult 
 points. 
 
 If a piece is torn with the fingers, it should show fibers 
 like the muscles in a piece of meat. The smell should be— as 
 the late Prof. Arnold aptly described it — like the breath of a 
 healthy cow in pure air, and the feeling should be soft and 
 velvety. This is as near as it can be described, but there is 
 another test, which is very extensively used, though not by 
 ALL good makers; this is the 
 
26 
 
 HOT IRON TEST. 
 
 Mr. Norton, the originator of the pineapple cheese, claims 
 to be the inventor; but I have also heard that honor being 
 credited to one of the well-known Scotch cheese-makers, Mc- 
 Adams. Be that as it may, when a little practice is obtained, 
 this test seems to work pretty exactly, if the circumstnnecs are 
 the same. It was Mr. Drummond who first drew my attention 
 to the fact that a draught in the room would affect the test ; 
 the amount of whey left in the curd will also affect it. Take 
 a piece of the curd, squeeze it in your hand, and apply it 
 with a steady hand to a piece of hot iron (not too hot; just 
 enough to make a drop of watei- simmer on it); if the curd is 
 ripe it will adhere, and if the curd is slowly pulled from the 
 iron, fine silky threads will form, and the length of these de- 
 termines the acidity. They should not be less than one inch, 
 and seldom more than tM'O inches. If the curd is not ripe it 
 will not adhere at all, and as soon as the threads are i inch 
 long you must watch carefully. 
 
 SUBDIVIDING THE CURD. 
 
 T^'hen the curd is ripe it 
 is torn by hand into pieces 
 like hickory nuts, put into 
 the ''hoop" (described later 
 on), and pressed lightly for 
 about half an hour; taken 
 out again and made as fine 
 as hazel nuts. This work is 
 the greatest objection to the 
 old Cheddar system for those 
 
 Fig. 19 
 
 who must do it by hand and cannot afford a curd mill costing 
 from |15 to |20. A great many constructions are in the mar- 
 ket, but they may be divided into two 
 classes, the peg mills and the knife mills. 
 The peg mills illustrated in Fig. 19, as 
 well as the very popular Pohl's curd mill. 
 Fig. 20, tear the curd apart, while the 
 knife mill cuts it. One of the best- 
 liked knife mills is the Harris mill. Fig. 
 21, of which several modifications are 
 made. Both kinds have their advan- 
 tages and admirers, suffice it to remark 
 that the curd from mills which tear it ^'s- 20. 
 
27 
 
 apart, closes better in the press. Curd from the knife mill 
 requires more pressure, but it is claimed that it causes less 
 loss of fat. 
 
 SALT AND. SALTING. 
 
 When the curd is "ground," good dairy salt, but not too 
 fine, is added at a rate of 2 to 3 lbs. to the curd from 1000 lbs. 
 of milk. Many cheese-makers seem to think that any salt is 
 good enough but I need not remind the readers that the best 
 is none too good. 
 
 I confess that I like a salt with a grain to it, so that when 
 sprinkling it on the cheese it does not mush like fine sugar 
 when sprinkled on berries. I also prefer a salt whicli does 
 not dissolve too quickly. 
 
 The grain should not be hard and sharp, but, taking it 
 between the fingers, it should be soft, smooth and flaky. 
 Chemical purity is of less importance than the physical con- 
 dition. Most of the salt offered for dairy use are sufficiently 
 pure, while but few are of the proper physical condition, of 
 the most suitable (jrain, so as to dissolve none too quickly. 
 While coarse barrel salt 
 should never be used, a too 
 fine salt is not as good for 
 cheese-making as a coarser 
 grained one which dissolves 
 slower. It should also be 
 remembered that salt takes 
 taint easily, and hence great 
 care should be used in hand- 
 ling it, and dealers who 
 show this care should be 
 patronized. 
 
 Of English brands I pre- 
 fer the "Ashton," it has ^'s- 21. 
 stood twenty-five years' test. Of American brands, the 
 "Genesee," and the ''Diamond Crystal" have years of good 
 reputation, and lately the "Cadillac" is also gaining favor. 
 
 Too little salt allows the cheese to ripen too fast' and too 
 much salt will make the cheese too dry and prevents its cur- 
 ing properly. It goes without saying that the salt must be 
 distributed evenly in the curd. 
 
28 
 
 The first effect of the salt is to harden the curd, making 
 it "gritty," but later it becomes soft and smooth as before. 
 
 After salting, the curd is cooled by spreading it on a table 
 which is set a little slanting, and on which are 4 or 5 laths, 
 covered with a cheese cloth. This table represents the "curd 
 sink" in the cheese factory, and should, if possible, be provided 
 with grooves, that will lead the whey into a bucket at the 
 lower end. When cooled to about 70 or 80 deg., according to 
 season, it is filled into the molds or hoops. If too warm, fat 
 will be pressed out; if too cold, the curd will not be pressed 
 close enough. 
 
 THE HOOPS. 
 
 The best hoops are made of heavy tinned or galvanized 
 iron, but one can be made of wood by any cooper, if only care 
 is taken to have it perfectly straight 
 and smooth inside (see Fig. 22), and 
 the follower (Pig. 23) made to fit as 
 close as possible with- 
 out being too tight. 
 For a small farm, one 
 =-j: ^ ■ " - -■■:r^ having a diameter of 7 
 inches and 12 inches 
 Fig. 22. deep is best, as the Fig. 23. 
 
 weight of the cheese will then be from 8 toi 10 lbs., so called 
 "Young America." Lately seamless hoops of pressed steel 
 have been introduced by Sturges, Burn & Co. 
 
 1 have seen a hoop made by simply cutting off a section 
 of a round log, scooping the center out, leaving a rim of only 
 IJ inch, and with two pieces of hoop iron to strengthen it. 
 Good cheese can be made with such a hoop, but one of tinned 
 steel is not very expensive and is easy to keep clean. 
 
 FILLING THE HOOP. 
 
 A piece of cheese cloth is carefully placed in the hoop, 
 so as to have the 'folds as smooth as possible before filling in 
 the curd. When it is full, the edges of the cloth are laid 
 smoothly over, and the follower put on. A splendid invention 
 is the rubber or fibrous "press-rings," which are placed under 
 the follower, as it prevents the curd from crowding out on the 
 
29 
 
 sides, and the consequent paring of the cheese. The price is, 
 1 believe, not more than 15c for a 7-inch ring, and it pays for 
 itself in a month. 
 
 Cheddars are pressed from 48 to 72 hours, and should be 
 turned after one hour and the cloth changed; then after two 
 hours, and later every twelve hours. In the States I have 
 never seen them in press more than 24 hours. 
 
 When pressing in the bandage (which may either be sown 
 at home or bought "seamless") the cloth is not used, and it 
 should be remembered that the unstarched bandages are the 
 best. 
 
 AMOUNT OF PRESSURE NEEDED. 
 
 For pressing a cheddar cheese the final pressure should 
 be 600 or 700 lbs. for a 10 lb. cheese, and one ton or 2400 lbs. 
 for one weighing 60 lbs. Some makers place the pressure at 
 18 lbs. for every square inch of the end surface of the cheese ; 
 but the first two hours the pressure should be very gentle, and 
 never more than one-third of the final pressure, which should 
 not be applied until after twelve or fifteen hours. Pressure 
 should also be regulated by the temperature at which the curd 
 is put to press. The warmer the curd, the less pressure is 
 needed. It also requires a heavier pressure when a "knife" 
 curd mills is used than when a peg mill, or when torn by hand. 
 As to the press, see later on. If a good close rind does not 
 form, it may help to dip the cheese for a few minutes in water 
 about 150 deg., and put it to press again. 
 
 CURING THE CHEESE. 
 
 When taken from the press the cheese is only half made — 
 in fact it is no "cheese," it is only a compressed lump of curd; 
 it is then bandaged by sewing a piece of cheese-cloth round it. 
 If the cheese is large, a strong piece of sack-cloth is laced as 
 tight as possible, and some makers (in Scotland) used to iron 
 the ends with a flat-iron, to get a firm and smooth crust. The 
 shelving on which the cheese are cured should be smoothly 
 planed and wider than the cheese. The room should be well 
 ventilated, but without draught; the temperature used to be 
 considered best between 60 and 70 deg., and no one need fear 
 bad results, if they can keep it as low as that, but moderfi ex- 
 periments have shown even better results between 50 and 60 
 
30 
 
 deg., and some even believe that 40 deg. will be the ideal tem- 
 perature. These lower temperatures have no interest for 
 farm cheese-makers and will have the effect (of rather a 
 doubtful value) of necessitating a centralizing of the cheese 
 making industry. 
 
 The more uniform we keep the temperature the better it 
 is, and the air must not be too dry nor too damp. The cheese 
 should be turned every day during the first month, and twice 
 a week during the next month; later on, only once a week. 
 When needed they should be rubbed with grease to prevent 
 cracking; for this purpose, the cream raised on the whey (if 
 set in a vat), or butter, or at best the so-called fly-proof grease, 
 may be used. 
 
 It is greatly preferable to have two curing rooms, one 
 above ground, the other in a cellar. Indeed the proper curing 
 of cheese is but very little understood and only during the last 
 few years has any attention been paid to this important mat- 
 ter. Thus in Canada ice has been used during the hottest 
 season, and the subearth ducts gained ground in Wisconsin, 
 while lately the experiments in that state by Drs. Babcock 
 and Eussell indicate the advantage of actual cold storage for 
 the cheese. It matters not how it is done, but complete con- 
 trol of temperature and moisture should be secured. It is 
 true, as long as cheese-makers ship curd instead of cheese we 
 cannot expect much interest in the matter, yet even if cheese 
 is only kept in the curing room for one short month, it will 
 pay to study not only the best temperature, but also the best 
 degree of moisture. Long and careful experiments should be 
 made in this direction by our Elxperimental Stations. 
 
 A good Cheddar cheese is not fit for eating until it is three 
 months old, and should improve until it is ten or twelve 
 months old; it should be mellow, and have a rich "nutty" 
 flavor; and, if old, have a sharp, but not "pungent" taste. 
 
 THE TEUE CHEDDAR TOO MUCH WORK. 
 
 I confess that when working a pioneer farm, I found the 
 true Cheddar cheese too much work, and I have described that 
 system chiefly to give the principles in cheese-making, which 
 may be modified in a hundred ways; but, also, because the 
 Cheddar is the most prominent cheese in the world! 
 
31 
 
 A MODIFIED CHEDDAR, 
 
 or a cross between the true cheddar and the "greased light- 
 ning" made American cheddar, seems to be preferable to make 
 on a small farm. It is made exactly the same up to the point 
 when the curd is cooked, when, instead of drawing the whey, 
 the vat is covered and left 30 or 40 minutes, but in no case 
 long enough to let the curd mat together; then stir it up 
 again, and so on until the curd is ripe, which personal experi- 
 ence and the hot iron test show; then the whey must be drawn 
 as quickly as possible, and the curd kept from matting by stir- 
 ring all the while during the salting and cooling. Instead of 
 loose cloth a sewn bandage, or, better still, a seamless band- 
 age, is placed' in the hoop and the curd filled in and pressed 
 into the bandage, which remains on it until it goes on the 
 table. Scale boards (boards as thin as shavings) can be 
 bought to put on the ends of cheese, and when the bandage 
 is pasted on these boards, the cheese is practically protected 
 against flies (these are only sold for large cheese). These are 
 not used now and cloth circles are used instead, the scale 
 boards being used loose in the box to prevent the cheese from 
 sticking. 
 
 "MANY ROADS LEAD TO ROME." 
 
 This system of keeping the curd in the whey, and by occa- 
 sional stirring, preventing it from matting, saves the labor of 
 sub-dividing after it is matted together; as the acid develops 
 quicker in the curd, when it is covered by a large quantity of 
 whey, than in the small quantity of whey left in the curd when 
 '■'cheddaring," it hastens the ripening, and enables the maker 
 to go to press several hours earlier, if he so wishes. On the 
 other hand, it requires to be watched very closely, as too much 
 acid may develop before you know where you are, and the con- 
 sequence will be a dry cheese with a very poor flavor. The 
 whey must be drawn very quickly, and it is safest to start 
 drawing it a little before the iron shows one inch threads. 
 But whatever system we use, the same (or nearly the same) 
 result may be arrived at with either. It has been a great 
 puzzle to me, all the learned writing and talking about the 
 "sweet curd" system versus the acid system. It seems to me, 
 after having seen some first class makers use both systems. 
 
32 
 
 that there is in reality very little difference between the two, 
 provided that both makers work with the same aim. 
 
 In one case the acid develops slowly, and can easily be 
 controlled, owing to the small quantity of milk sugar (whey) 
 in the curd; in the other case it develops quickly in large 
 quantities of whey outside the curd, and communicates itself 
 to that in the curd; consequently it is tarder to control. 
 
 The hurrying of the ripening, which is the fashion, and — 
 may I say it? — the curse of American cheese, is quite another 
 thing; but to get at a certain result with the same milk, it 
 takes a certain heat; a certain quantity of rennet, and a certain 
 grade of acidity. Let the latter be developed, either while the- 
 curd is in a large quantity of whey, or in little whey left in the 
 curd, it matters not. But, in the first case, the feeding value- 
 of the whey is diminished. 
 
 "Topsy." (Shorthorn dam and Holstein bull), whose year- 
 ly average for five years was 10,037 lbs. of milk, with 456 lbs.. 
 of butter, at an average cost of 8.6 cents per pound. 
 
33 
 
 POINTERS FOE FACTORY CHEESiE-MAKERS. 
 
 BY PROF. J. A. RUDDICK. 
 
 TJiough written for factory makers I cannot but wish to 
 spread these short and concise rules on cheddar cheese-mak- 
 ing, and recommend a careful study of them by all cheese- 
 makers : 
 
 1. You cannot make strictly fine cheese from milk that is overripe or 
 tainted. 
 
 2. If you are a progressive cheesemaker, you will study the causes of 
 tainted milk and seek to apply remedies. 
 
 ^^. Milk may become tainted from: 
 
 (a) Feed unsuitable for milking cows; 
 
 (b) Injudicious feeding; 
 
 (c) An impure water supply; 
 Cd) Want of salt by the cow; 
 
 (e) Absorption of odours; 
 
 (f) The g-erms that get into the milk during and after milking. 
 4. Encourage the patrons to aerate the milk, but 
 
 ^5. Advise them that aeration must be carried out in a place where the 
 air is pure and free from dust or bad odours. 
 
 6. Milk will be injured rather than improved if aerated in a stable, 
 barnyard or even alongside a milking yard, from which dust arises. 
 
 7. Milk is not prevented from turning sour by aeration, except in so 
 far as the process lowers the temperature. 
 
 8. In warm weather the milk should be cooled to a temperature of 70 
 degrees Fahr. or lower. 
 
 9. Attend personally to the taking in of the milk as far as possible. 
 
 10. Keep your weighing stand and everything thereon, including your 
 own person, thoroughly clean. You have no right to require the patrons 
 to furnish clean milk unless you set a good example. 
 
 ^ 11. Make fermentation tests of each patron's milk as frequently as 
 possible. By this means you will often locate taints which are not discern- 
 ible when the milk is being received. 
 
 ""'12. The rennet should be used in sufficient quantity to coagulate the 
 milk, fit for cutting, in not more than 30 minutes, at a temperature of 86 
 degrees Pahr. 
 
 13. The milk should have such a degree of ripeness, or acidity, when 
 the rennet is added, that the whey will be removed in two and a half to 
 three hours from the time the rennet was added. 
 
 *^14. When cutting the curd always aim to make the cubes of uniform 
 size, and follow any course that will secure such a, result. 
 
 15. A curd that Is allowed to get too firm cannot be as well cut as one 
 that is "just right." 
 
 •- 16. If the cubes of curd are uneven in size, there will be different kinds 
 of curd in one vat when the whey is removed, because the smaller particles 
 harden first and do not show acid as quickly as the larger and softer 
 ones do. 
 
3i 
 
 17. Stir very gently at first. Many chefesemakers cause more waste 
 at this stage tlian tlieir wages amount to. 
 
 IS. Tlie whey should not be removed until the curd has a. somewhat 
 firm, elastic character, and is what is generally termed properly "coolced." 
 
 19. The curd should be firm, elastic and well "cooked" before there is 
 any appreciable development of acidity. 
 
 ^^ 20. Failure to have the curd firm before the whey is removed results 
 in tender-bodied, "acid cut" cheese. 
 
 21. If difficulty is experienced in getting the curd firm at the proper 
 stage, run off as much as possible of the whey as soon as heating is finished, 
 without tipping the vat, and stir curd vigorously. 
 
 22. If difficulty is still experienced in getting the curd firm, the "cook- 
 ing" temperature should be raised. 
 
 23. It is generally advisable to raise the "cooking" temperature several 
 degrees as the season advances, and the milk becomes richer in fat. .In 
 some districts it may be raised as high as 105 degrees Fahr. with beneficial 
 results. It should never be raised higher than is necessary at any time 
 of the year. 
 
 24. When the whey is removed, the curd should be stirred on racks 
 placed on the bottom of the' vat at this stage, or in special "sinks" having 
 rack bottoms. 
 
 -^ 25. The cloths used over these racks MUST BE KEPT CLEAN. Bad 
 flavours in cheese have been traced to filthy rack cloths. 
 
 26. There should be not more than % of an inch of acid by hot iron 
 test when the whey is removed. 
 
 27. It requires good judgment to determine the amount of stirring the 
 curd should receive before being allowed to "pack." Cheesemakers should 
 study this point carefully, because it has an important effect on the texture 
 and body of the finished cheese. 
 
 23. The curd should be protected with a cover while maturing. 
 
 29. If a cloth is used it should not rest on the curd. 
 
 30. If too much moisture has been allowed to remain in the curd, mill 
 it early. In any case, mill it one hour before salting. 
 
 31. The curd should be cut or broken into convenient sized pieces and 
 turned once in twenty minutes while maturing. 
 
 32. If the curd shows signs of greosiness, the pieces should not be piled 
 one on top of the other. 
 
 ^33. A "greasy" curd may with advantage be salted earlier and allowed 
 to stand longer before pressing. 
 
 ^ 34. The application of the salt retards but does not stop the changes 
 that are taking place in the curd. 
 
 V 35. When filling the hoops pack the curd well in the center, so- that 
 when pressure is applied the curd will close up in the center first and the 
 air and whey will have a chance to escape. 
 
 36. Apply pressure gradually. "A little and often" is a good rule for 
 the first hour. 
 
 37. Many cheese are open and loose because not well pressed. 
 
 38. A sweet, immature curd will not make a close cheese under any 
 amount of pressure, but no cheese is ever solid and close unless heavy 
 pressure has been applied. 
 
 39. Salt gives a flavour to cheese and assists in expelling moisture. 
 
 WO. Salt varies greatly in weight owing to its quality of absorbing mois- 
 ture and giving It off again. It is therefore easier to secure uniform re- 
 sults If the salt is measured instead of weighed. 
 
 41. Cheese should be kept in the presses until the next batch is ready. 
 
 42. If seamless bandage is used, a, half size smaller than the hoop, 
 (15-in. bandage for a, 15%-in. hoop, etc.), will give you a. neater looking 
 cheese. 
 
 43. The best temperature for curing cheese is certainly not over 60 de- 
 grees. 
 
35 
 
 44. There is a marked difference In the flavour and texture of cheese 
 cured between 56 and 58 degrees Fahr. and others of the same hatch cured 
 even at 70 degrees. As the temperature Is raised the difference Increases, 
 especially in the matter of flavour. 
 
 45. There Is much less shrinlsag-e If the cheese are cured at the low 
 temperature. 
 
 46. A cheese cured at 58 degrees begins to "break down" about a week 
 later than if cured at ordinary curing room temperatures, say 70 to 80 de- 
 grees. 
 
 47. As a cheesemaker you should use all your influence towards secur- 
 ing better sanitary conditions around factories in general. 
 
 48. Some attempt should be made to keep flies out of the factory. It 
 is disgusting to see the swarms of them in some places. 
 
 ^-/ 49. Flies are attracted to all kinds of filth with its putrefactive germs. 
 Particles of fllth containing germs cling to their legs and bodies, and when 
 they get into milk or whey they are a sure source of Infection. 
 
 50. A cement concrete floor is the only kind that will ensure perfect 
 draining for the making room. It will help to keep the curing room cool 
 in hot weather, and warm In cold weather. 
 
 'mm/z/MF/MMmm. 
 
 McPHEKSO'N'S CURD EAKE. 
 
 The importance has been shown, all through the descrip- 
 tion of making cheddar cheese, of keeping the curd moving in 
 the whey while cooking it, and if heated from the bottom with 
 hot water, or steam especially, to prevent it from settling. 
 
 Though McPherson's rake is in- 
 vented by him, and especially adapt- 
 ed for the large square factory vats, 
 I take this opportunity of spreading 
 the knowledge of one of the sim- 
 plest and withal most effective "stir- 
 rers." Fig. 24 represents the head 
 of the rake, and explains itself; the 
 teeth are flat and made of :|-inch 
 Fig. 24. hard-wood, 3^ inches broad at the 
 
 bottom and \\ inches at the top, where they are mortised into 
 the head. They are about 20 inches long. 
 
 When pulling this rake along in the vat there is created a 
 boiling motion as the whey is forced quicker through the 
 lower and more narrow space between the teeth, and thus the 
 particles of curd are driven from the bottom of the vat. 
 Simple? Yes, all great inventions are. 
 Try it; any one can make it. 
 
36 
 
 THE CHEiEiSE PBESS— HOW TO MAKE IT. 
 
 MY FIRST CHBBSE-PEESS. 
 
 There was a large stump (K) left just outside my house- 
 indeed the veranda projected over it — and this I used, as 
 shown in Pig. 25. I first levelled the ground and laid a 2-inch 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 plank (B) as close to the stump as possible, then placed the 
 hoop (C), allowing space for the follower and a cross-piece. I 
 mortised a hole (A) in the stump, 3 inches square and 4 or 5 
 inches deep. When used, a long pole (Mj was placed with 
 one end in the hole (A), and, the hoop being in position, a 
 bucket or box (H), filled with stones, was attached at the other 
 end. 
 
 To calculate the pressure, the dis- 
 tance from Y to X is measured, and in 
 this case it was 12 inches. If the weight 
 of the bucket is 100 lbs., and it is hung 
 at I, which is 12 inches from X, the 
 pressure is 100 lbs. ; if at II, or 24 inches 
 from X, it is 200 lbs.; and if between 
 III and IV, it is 3.50 lbs. 
 
 Such a press can be fixed on any 
 solid wall, by simply spiking a piece of 
 scantling (h) to the wall, as shown in Fig. 
 26, and putting the end of the lever-pole 
 under it. More convenient still is to have 
 one end of the pole fixed by a very strong 
 hinge to the wall, while the other is hung 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 up by a cord to the ceiling, so that the pole can be hoisted up 
 
37 
 
 out of the way when not in use, but this will not do for heavy 
 pressure. 
 
 There is only one drawback to these 
 cheap and yet efficient presses, and that is 
 the fact that unless you watch them very 
 carefully the pole is apt to slant a little 
 one way or the other, and the result is a lop- 
 sided cheese (Fig. 27). ^'e- 27. 
 
 MY SECOND CHEESE-PRESS. 
 
 Another press which I made on my own farm, more 
 complicated, and requiring more muscle to handle, is shown 
 in Pig. 28, front view and side view. 
 
 y^^^S^i^ 
 
 A 1^ 
 
 
 ■n^g^/?^ 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
 Two frames like A-A are made and fixed to the wall (W) 
 by a piece of batten (n) at top and bottom. Across these 
 and a center support (D) the plamks (P) are laid, leaving the 
 
38 
 
 posts (A) standing up at each end of the bench so formed. 
 These posts are joined together with four scantlings (B) bolted 
 two-and-two together, the first pair about 16 inches from the 
 planks P, the second pair at the top of the posts. Next eight 
 pairs of cross-pieces (0-C) are bolted to B, as shown in the 
 cut, but it may be enough to screw on pieces of battens, the 
 object being only to form guides for the press poles (H-H) to 
 work up and down in. 
 
 The press poles (H-H) consist of a scantling 3|x3J inches, 
 with two cross-pieces (K-K) 
 bolted at the top for a support 
 to the boxes (I-I), a piece of 
 iron 2J in. broad, 34 in. long, 
 and i inch thick (p), with holes 
 about 1 or 1^ in. apart, is let 
 into the press pole and firmly 
 screwed on. The holes go 
 right through the press-pole, 
 so as to allow the iron stop- 
 pin (m) to be slipped in above 
 the top bars (B). Holding the 
 pole up (see H'), or taken out 
 (see H). The press-pole, with 
 box full of stones, is worked 
 up and down by a small iron 
 crow bar used as a lever on 
 the lower bar (B). On the 
 drawing are shown two cheese 
 hoops, the full weight of the 
 box I pressing the cheese L, 
 while I' is shown lifted up 
 ready to remove L. Of course 
 many other handier modes 
 may be used for the levering 
 up and down of the weights, 
 but this is one way, and is f's- 29. 
 
 given here just to give an idea about that kind of press, and 
 if they are built straight there are no better presses so far 
 as a straight continuous pressure is concerned, and that is 
 all there is wanted. 
 
 Fig. 29 represents the best of all presses— an Etaglisb 
 combined lever and screw press. 
 
39 
 
 THE AMERICAN PRESSES. 
 
 American factorymen are never happy unless they can 
 save labor and time; hence the invention of the Gang-press, 
 in -which up to twenty cheese are pressed with one single 
 screw ! 
 
 It is, however, not a safe press, unless you have the curd 
 pretty warm, and it requires continual tightening to keep up 
 the pressure. An inventive genius then added a heavy spring 
 cushion at one end which, however, did not do much good. It 
 remained for the Danes to improve on it and secure a continu- 
 ous pressure and this has again been improved by Messrs. D. 
 H. Burrell & Co., of Little Falls, N. Y., and no community or 
 person establishing a cheese factory should buy the old gang 
 press, hut be sure to get the continuous pressure press. 
 
 For farm dairies the press screw (Fig. 30) may be bought 
 , and the frame for this screw may be made at 
 home. 
 
 As shown in front and side views on Figs. 31 
 and 32 two planks (A) are bolted to crosspieces 
 (C), which forms a foot. 
 
 Four planks (B-B) are notched and mortised 
 two and two into (A) edgewise, thus forming a 
 mortise, as shown on the side view, leaving a 
 
 space (xxxx) between them; on the top of B 
 
 ^Fig. 30. are nailed planks (P), forming the press-bench 
 on which the hoops (L) are placed. 
 
 On top of B and below B, crosspieces I and H are placed 
 and connected with two bolts (D) passing through the middle 
 of the planks B-B, as shown with dotted lines on the side 
 view. 
 
 Cross-pieces (K) are bolted below B, and into these pieces 
 are mortised and screwed the nut of the iron press-screws, so 
 as to allow the screw to pass up and down in the space 
 (xxxx) left between the two planks (B). 
 
 Material Wanted for a Bench with Two Screws: 
 
 ^_2 planks 5 feet 3 inches long, 11 inches wide, 3 inches thick. 
 B_4 " 4 " 10 " " 5 " " 4 " 
 
 C-2 • 2 " 5 " " 3 •• 
 
40 
 
 K — 2 planks 2 feet long, 11 inches wide, 3 inches thick. 
 I-H — 2 pieces scantling, not less than 2 inches thick. 
 P — 5^ square feet, 2 in. planks. 
 
 D — 2 bolts, 48 inches long, f-inch diameter. , 
 
 8 bolts, 9 inches long, J-inch diameter; 4 bolts, 7 inches long, 
 3-lC inch diameter. 
 
 Fig. 31. Fig. 32. 
 
 Fig. 33 is a cheap combined screw and lever press, sold by 
 Creamery Packing Mfg. Co., Chicago and Kansas City, and 
 Fig. 34 a very neat Dutch lever press with shelves to screw on 
 the wall. 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
 Fig. 34. 
 
41 
 
 THE CURING ROOM IN FACTORIES. 
 
 It is always best to have two rooms, one a cellar, and 
 
 they should, at best, be heated 
 by steam or hot water coils, 
 and cooled by either subearth 
 ducts or an ice chamber, so as 
 to have complete control of 
 temperature. If a stove is 
 used at all, it should have a 
 screen as in Fig. 35, and have 
 a water basin for developing 
 moisture Avhen needed. In 
 this connection I mention two 
 devices for ventilating the 
 cellar, one shown in Fig. :^6 
 representing the curing room 
 of Mr. W. Simon, Neenah, 
 Wis., and the other a simple 
 device of a stove pipe turned 
 into the chimney and a lamp 
 placed so as to create an up- 
 F's- 35- ward draft. Fig. 37. 
 
 Whatever system of heating and cooling is used, the 
 more we insulate the walls and ceiling the better and safer 
 
 it is and not less- 
 than four dead 
 air spaces should 
 b e provided. 
 Keeping doors 
 and windows 
 closed during the 
 day and open 
 during the night 
 will sometimes 
 help us, and T 
 have heard of a 
 system with 
 Pig 3e cloths (covering 
 
 the open windows) kept water-soaked all the time, which of 
 course will cool the air entering the room. As a rule a good 
 dry cellar will suffice. 
 
42 
 
 PAEAPPINING THE CHEESE. 
 
 One of the great advantages claimed for the subearth- 
 duct curing cellars and for the modern cold curing is the 
 retaining of more moisture and thus preventing shrinkage 
 in weight. This claim has always seemed of small value 
 to me, because the shrinkage is onlj^ pre- 
 vented while in the hands of the manu- 
 facturer or jobber and the shrinkage will 
 simply increase while in the hands of the 
 retailer and consumer. Indeed, it seems 
 to me to be an attempt to sell water for 
 cheese. Whatever percentage of water 
 is deemed best in each kind of cheese, it is 
 the duty of the maker to so manipulate 
 his curd that the cheese is at its best 
 when reaching the consumer. If, then, 
 one curing system gives more shrinkage 
 than another, the maker must leave more 
 moisture in his curd as it comes from the ■^'^- ^'^' 
 
 press. 
 
 Far more practical is the protecting of the cured cheese 
 from evaporation while in the hands of the retailers, especi- 
 ally when sent to hot climes. For this purpose the old 
 English Stilton cheese were covered with a bladder and in the 
 later years, the cheese are covered by a coating of paraffin, 
 this, it is claimed, not only prevents shrinkage, but also mold. 
 On a large scale the best way is to have a steam-heated jack- 
 eted kettle covered with asbestos on the outside and then 
 have an iron ring (of the size of cheese to be treated) tied 
 in three equi-distant places with rope connected with a pul- 
 ley above. The cheese rests on the three knots of rope and is 
 dipped down just for a second and when taken out the three 
 little spots unparafQned are covered with a stroke of the hand. 
 In reply to an enquiry, Prof. J. A. Ruddick writes me : 
 
 "We have used wax having a melting point from 118 
 deg. to 120 deg., and experimented also with a grade that had 
 a melting point of from 114 deg. to 116 deg. As far as our 
 experience goes, the wax melting 118 deg. to 120 deg. is the 
 best. The results are quite as good as with the softer wax, 
 and it hardens rather more quickly and thus facilitates hand- 
 ling. We have experimented with temperatures all the way 
 
43 
 
 from 180 deg. to 215 deg., and have concluded that 200 deg. 
 is a good temperature. It takes about 4 ounces of wax per 
 cheese of 80 pounds weight. I do not think the temperature 
 of the cheese is important. If the cheese are very cold it is 
 possibly better to allow them to remain a few seconds longer 
 in the wax. We leave them about 10 to 15 seconds as a rule, 
 when the cheese are fairly warm. We use a rack that will 
 hold three cheese, made of three bars of iron covered with 
 wood, which prevents the iron, when it gets hot, from melting 
 the cheese." 
 
 As to the age when the cheese should be paraffined, 
 theoretically it seems to me the nearer the cheese is cured, 
 the better it should be, but in practice it is preferred to do 
 it as close to the pressing as possible ; the concensus of opin- 
 ion seems to place it at about ten days or two weeks from 
 the press. Prof. Euddick says: "It appears to me that the 
 cheese should not be paraflSned until they are at least one 
 week old. It gives the rind time to form and the surface of 
 the white cheese especially, to take on the amber color that 
 we are accustomed to see. If they are paraffined when they 
 are fresh made the surfaces have an 'acidy' or rather faded 
 appearance." 
 
 To do it on a farm is hardly practical, though not im- 
 possible. A vessel large enough to allow the dipping of the 
 cheese is set in a larger vessel with water in and this is placed 
 on the range. The paraflSn may then be melted and the 
 cheese dipped, but it requires a standing investment in 
 enough paraffin to fill the kettle. 
 
 CONTINUOUS PRESSURE GANG PRESS. 
 
44 
 
 "GOUDA" 
 
 "maikaas" (may cheese), "jodenkaas" (jew 
 
 cheese), "hebmraadskaas" (counselor's cheese), ''xied- 
 
 wemelksche hooikaas" (new milk hay cheese.) 
 
 Cheddar cheese on a small farm is certainly too laborious, 
 but — as before said — every cheese-maker ought to study its 
 making carefully so as to lay a solid foundation to his (or her) 
 knowledge in cheese-making of all other cheese. I know of 
 none more suitable for making on the farm than the "G-ouda." 
 The city of Gouda in South Holland is the centre for the 
 production of this popular cheese which is imitated in many 
 places in France under the name of "Fromage de Bergues," in 
 Denmark (a modified skim cheese) under the name of "Ex- 
 port Cheese." Gouda is chiefly made from new milk, but, as 
 do most other cheese, its reputation suffers by the making of 
 half skims. The milk is brought into the make-room as soon 
 as possible and strained into a cylindrical barrel on a stand. 
 Color is added and the milk is "set" with rennet at 82 to 90 
 deg. Pahr. The curd should be ready to cut in 15 minutes, 
 and this should be done very carefully and 
 gently, either with a wire cutter. Fig. 38, or 
 with an American curd knife, Fig. 1.3, page 
 20, and then left for a while, coTcring the 
 tub with a cloth. The whey separates and 
 most of it is dipped out. The curd is then 
 stirred up gently and further broken by 
 hand until it is reduced to the size of 
 beans. The temperature is then raised to 
 from 97 to 104 deg. Fahr. either by 
 Fig. 38. - pouring back some of the whey which has 
 been heated, by adding hot water, or by any other convenient 
 way. The "cooking" temperature depends on the destination 
 of the cheese. The lower the temperature the larger the yield 
 and the finer and softer body (more moisture), but less keeping 
 quality ; the higher the temperature the better the cheese will 
 keep and stand transportation. 
 
 The hot water or whey which is poured on the curd should 
 not be too hot, not above 120 deg. Fahr., and should be added 
 gradually. Whenever the curd pieces "squeak" between the 
 
45 
 
 teeth, the "cooking" is done and the pieces should then be the 
 size of wheat kernels. The whey is dipped off, and the curd 
 is squeezed and worked with the hands so as to get rid of most 
 of the whey. Many makers salt it at this stage by working 
 it in a box with a double bottom, the upper one being per- 
 forated and covered with a cheese cloth. More extensive is 
 the salting in brine. 
 
 The salted or unsalted curd is put to press as soon as pos- 
 sible. The hoops (mkjulds) are deep dishes made of willow 
 wood with a perforated rounded bottom, Fig. 39. In this 
 country they are made of tinned steel. The curd is filled in 
 a little at a time and pressed firmly and 
 closely with the hands and sometimes 
 with a sort of rammer (potato masher.) 
 The hoop is filled to the edge and then a 
 rounded heap piled on top, and put to 
 F's- 39- pi-ess. Sometimes the cheese is taken 
 
 from the press after a short time and broken up and then put 
 to press again. The pressure is only about double the weight 
 of the cheese to begin with, but after a few hours it is doubled 
 and kept up for twelve hours. If a longer keeping quality 
 is desired, the weight is doubled a third time and kept up 
 for three hours more. The cheese is turned every hour to 
 begin with and later every three or four hours while in the 
 press. The holes in the mould must be cleaned out. If the 
 salt has not been added to the curd, the cheese are placed in 
 the brine trough, Fig. 40. This trough is filled with a strong 
 
 Fig. 40. 
 
 brine and the cheese float in it, a little salt being sprinkled on 
 the top surface. They are turned twice a day and the sprink- 
 ling of salt is repeated. It takes four to eight days, according 
 to the size of the cheese, to finish the salting. Some makers 
 take them out of the brine after twenty-four hours and dry 
 
46 
 
 salt them by rubbing the salt on, turning them twice a day on 
 the salting table which is provided with grooves for draining. 
 This takes four to five days with a cheese weighing fourteen 
 to sixteen pounds. 
 
 When salted, they are washed with warm water, wiped 
 dry with a cloth, and put in the curing room. Here they are 
 turned at first once a day, later twice a week and after three 
 months only once a week. The curing room should be dry and 
 well ventilated and there must be no draughts as that will 
 cause the cheese to crack. If the cheese become greasy (by 
 exudations) they must be washed in warm- water and wiped 
 dry again. The curing room is kept dark, and when the 
 cheese are fourteen days old, the rind is colored with a solu- 
 tion of saffron and beer or vinegar, or both. This gives a 
 yellow color and is said to protect against flies. When three 
 or four months old it is as a rule cured, but it is often sold as 
 early as five or six weeks old. The cheese are packed in rows 
 in boxes, with scale-boards between each cheese, and lately 
 neatly painted, pressed cardboard boxes of same shape as the 
 cheese are being used for the export trade. The weight of the 
 Gouda varies from six to sixteen pounds and the shape is 
 shown in Fig. 41. A cheese weigh- 
 ing ten pounds will be about nine 
 inches in diameter and four and one- 
 half inches thick. "May Cheese" are 
 made in the spring when the pastures 
 ^'^' ^- are new, and they are always small. 
 
 The system is as described above, but they have a poor keep- 
 ing quality. 
 
 "Jew Cheese'" also called "kosher," are salted less than 
 the regular Gouda and have a flat circle in the mould where 
 the stencil of the rabbi, declaring the cheese "kosher," is 
 carved. 
 
 "Counselor's Cheese" are made quite small and have a 
 different color. They have a better keeping quality and are 
 chiefly used for presents. 
 
 "New Milk Hay Cheese" are those made in winter gener- 
 ally from the milk of fresh-milking cows, but are not consid- 
 ered as good as those made while the cows are on the pastures. 
 
THE FEKMENTATION TEST. 
 
 In making any kind of cheese, where, as in the Gouda, 
 the rennet is added tO' the milk just as it comes from the barn, 
 it is even more important than in making cheddar cheese to 
 have perfect milk, and if there is any trouble, it may be neces- 
 sary to submit each cow's milk to the fermentation test and 
 thus find out if the trouble lies in the milk from an individual 
 cow. 
 
 The test consists simply of putting a sample of each 
 cow's milk in a tube 1 inch by 5 inches, or a common tumbler 
 with cover, keeping it at a temperature of about 105 deg. 
 Fahr. from 9 to 12 hours and then observe the action of the 
 milk. Dr. Gerber places the shortest time for spontaneous 
 coagulation of good milk at 12 hours, but I have found it (as 
 delivered at cheese factores) to coagulate as quickly as 9 
 hours. Perfect milk should, when coagulated, show a solid 
 column of curd which, if left undisturbed, should stapd quite 
 a time without any whey separating and without any gas 
 bubbles which indicate fermentation. The value of the test 
 depends on having the tubes or glasses and the covers used 
 absolutely sterile and this is done by putting them — when 
 clean — in a pan of cold water and then bringing it to a boil, 
 leaving the glass in until the water cools to about 160 deg., 
 and then placing them in a clean place protected against 
 dust until needed. Dr. Schroth suggested adding a few drops 
 of reliable Eennet Extract so as to hasten the coagulation, 
 and at Madison (Wis.) Experiment Station they use a jar of 
 milk, adding Rennet, draining whey off and observing the 
 fermentation in the curd. This is called the Wisconsin "Curd 
 Test." The introduction of these tests in our cheese factories 
 would save the country thousands of dollars now lost in poor 
 cheese, and in this matter we must also hope the best from 
 the Dairv Schools. 
 
 GBRBER'S FERMENTATION TEST. 
 
48 
 
 »KIM CHEESE. 
 
 These may be made from all kinds of skim-milk, from that 
 only half skimmed to that skimmed perfectly clean in a cen- 
 trifugal machine. The latter, I presume, produced that cheese 
 which was packed in an iron box and put on board a ship, that 
 when arrived at its destination, the rats had eaten through 
 the box but couldn't get through the cheese! Other skim- 
 cheese seem to be made with the aim of using for leather 
 belting; but, nevertheless, if the patience and economy which 
 hard times have taught the European nations, is brought into 
 play when making skim cheese, a very cheap, wholesome, and 
 even palatable food can be produced from. skim-milk. 
 
 But the great trouble in America is the fact, that while 
 lots of half skim cheese are made, you can never buy it, (as for 
 instance, in Chicago) it all becomes "full cream cheese" in 
 some mysterious manner! It is all right to make a skim 
 cheese, if it be sold as such, and at its right value it is a bless- 
 ing to poor people; if not, it is a fraud. On the other hand, 
 it is a shame to export these partially skimmed cheese as full 
 cream cheese, as they ruin our reputation in the foreign 
 market. 
 
 But on the farm the half skim or even "the hard skim 
 cheese should be made and consumed, as it is a most valuable 
 item in the domestic economy. 
 
 HALF SKIM CHEESE 
 
 may be made either on the cheddar or the Gouda system, but 
 it should always be remembered that, to a certain extent, 
 water may be made to replace fat in the composition of 
 cheese; that is, the apparent value and selling quality of a 
 cheese depends, to a certain extent, on the quantity of fat, 
 plus water, and a cheese containing more fat and less water 
 than another will not always be adjudged to be the best. We 
 must then see to it, that when we make a half skim cheese, 
 more water is left in it, hence not cut so fine, not cook too high, 
 and go to press before too much acid has developed. 
 
 The curing, room temperature should be kept not above 
 65 to 70 deg. 
 
 "DANISH EXPORT CHEESE." 
 
 This is a skim-milk cheese introduced by Mr. Busk at the 
 time he introduced the making of sweet cream butter when 
 the milk was allowed to "cream" only for 12 hours set in deep 
 
49 
 
 cans in ice water. Tlie shape of this cheese is the same as 
 that of the Gouda, and may as well be used as an illustration 
 for skim-milk cheese. I may add, that while this cheese was 
 fairly good when made from milk handled as above described, 
 which often had as much as 0.6 and sometimes even 1 per cent, 
 of fat in it, it is not very much of a success when the milk 
 has been through a Separator! Indeed they have in 
 Denmark come to the conclusion that it is a hopeless task to 
 make cheese from separator skim-milk. However, there is 
 
 Fig. 42. 
 
 nothing to prevent the readers from crowding their separator, 
 so as to leave as much as 0.6 or even 1 per cent, fat in the 
 skim milk and therefore I give a short description written 
 partly from memory, partly from Dairy Councellor Boggild's 
 book on "Dairying in Denmark." As the milk is very sweet, 
 10 to 20 per cent, of buttermilk may be added after heating the 
 milk to 90 deg. Fahr. The determination of how much butter- 
 milk there should be used may be assisted greatly by testing 
 the milk with the rennet test or the Mann's acid test. The 
 buttermilk will, as a rule, reduce the temperature of the milk 
 to 86 deg. Fahr., at which temperature the rennet is added 
 after having first added the color. I may as well here give an 
 illustration of Prof. Fjord's low pressure farm steam boiler 
 (Fig. 42) which explains itself. A common stationary open 
 
 *The cheese-vat shown in illustration is out of proportion small. 
 
boiler is piovided with a cast iron cover (for which may be 
 substituted one of wood). The cover must, of cx)urse, fit 
 tightly. The boiler is filled through a, and the steam de- 
 ^•eloped passes through the 1-i-inch pipe d d under the tinned 
 copper bottom of the round wooden cheese-rate M. If the 
 cover is made of wood, the steam pipe must be 2 inches, b 
 is a manhole and c is a :|-inch pipe reaching to within 4 or 5 
 inches of the bottom of the boiler and 2 to 3 feet above the 
 cover, thus acting as a safety valve, and if the water falls 
 below the lower end, giving warning by allowing the steam 
 to escape. I have wondered why some manufacturer does 
 not put something like this on the market here, meanwhile 
 any handy local mechanic may get up a similar device from 
 the above illustration. However, small feed cookers may be 
 bought for |3o.00 from the Dairy Supply houses, and I cannot 
 lay too great weight on the value of steam on a dairy farm. 
 
 The time of coagulation should be between 20 and 30 
 minutes. The curd is cut rather early, as experimients by 
 Prof. Storch have shown, that less fat is lost in the whey by 
 
 Fig. 44. Fig. 43. Fig. 45. 
 
 cutting before the curd will split clear over the finger. The 
 cutting is done as described for the Gouda cheese and the stir- 
 ring may either be done with the hands or with the stirrer 
 illustrated in Fig. 12, on page 19. When the curd pieces are 
 about the size of i>eas they are left to settle and the whey 
 drawn. Enough curd is taken to fill the mould and worked 
 with the hands, pouring off the whey (Fig. 43). The curd is 
 then flattened by pressure of the hand (Fig. 45), the surface 
 scratched up (Fig. 44) half an inch deep, and the hoop is en- 
 tirely filled with new curd which is worked and sqeezed as 
 the first layer, and the top is made round like the lower part. 
 
51 
 
 The whole surface of the cheese used to be rubbed with a little 
 of the curd, previously made greasy by rubbing it between the 
 hands, but this practice is now discontinued as useless. 
 
 The cover is put on and a weight of about 20 pounds put 
 on the top. The cheese is turned at short intenals, and after 
 12 hours It IS removed from the hoop and put into strong brine. 
 Here it remains for three days, being turned every twelve 
 hours, and at each turning a handful of salt is put on top. 
 
 The cheese is removed from the brine, washed, wiped with 
 a cloth and placed on the shelves in the curing room, where 
 an even temperature of 60 deg. is maintained, while draught 
 and light are carefully excluded. EVery day the cheese is 
 turned and wiped with a cloth. When about five weeks old, 
 the cheese instead of being wiped with a cloth, is brushed with 
 a hard brush a couple of times a week. 
 
 It is better to have a moist and cool cellar which should 
 be about 52 deg. Fahr. into which the cheese is removed after 
 two or three weeks in the drying (curing) room. Tlie new 
 cheese are placed on the highest shelves and moved lower as 
 they grow older. The poorer a cheese is in fat the more 
 moisture should be left in it and the more time should be given 
 it to cure and get mellow; yet I do not consider that the prob- 
 lem of making an eatable hard cheese from milk containing 
 less than 0.6 to 1 per cent, fat, hasi been solved, and do not 
 recommend any one to try it. Far better to use such hard 
 skimmed milk for making some modification of the soft cheese 
 which I describe. 
 
 OHBESB FROM PASTEURIZED MILK. 
 
 Pasteurization of milk deprives it of its sensitiveness to 
 the action of rennet, but late experiments in Q-ermany have 
 shown that this can be restored by the addition of calcium 
 chloride and other salts, yet the state of art is not at present 
 perfect any more than that of adding a culture to separator 
 skim-milk and make a usable cheese, though experiments are 
 carried on at the present time, and the outlook is promising. 
 
 WHAT A BAD SKIM CHEESE IS GOOD FOE. 
 
 One advantage in experimenting with skim cheese is, that 
 if we fail to get a good cheese, which we don't care to eat our- 
 selves, we have an excellent food for our fowls. Indeed, the 
 adding of a little rennet matter to the skim-milk, before feed- 
 ing it to young pigs and calves, cannot be overestimated. 
 
And, generally speaking, we hare a lesson to learn from 
 Europeans, and that is the proper use of what we are inclined 
 to look upon as "waste products." The wonderful prosperity 
 of France is owing to the fact that the French people don't 
 acknowledge any "waste products" — they utilize everything. 
 "Dirt," said Lord Palmerston (I believe), "is a thing out of 
 place. If we put it in the right place, it is dirt no longer." 
 
 SOFT CHEESE. 
 
 In order to give an idea of this kind of cheese, which may 
 be varied in many ways, I describe a few, commencing with 
 "Brie," which is a king of "soft" cheese as the Cheddar is of 
 the "hard" ones. 
 
 "FROMAGB DE BRIE." 
 
 (bkie cheese.) 
 The "Brie" is undoubtedly the most important French 
 soft cheese, and one which is imitated in most countries. Its 
 production in the Department "Seine et Mariie" is said to 
 amount to 10 or 15 million pounds a year, and "M'eaux" is the 
 chief market. Unlike other soft cheese, the Brie is not often 
 sold fresh, but is nearly always sold salted and cured. It is 
 made in different qualities from skim milk, from partly 
 skimmed, from new milk and even from new milk with cream 
 added. The sizes of the cheese are as follows: 
 
 Height. Diameter. Weight. 
 
 Large 0.84 to 1.68 in. 12.6 to 16.8 in. 5.5 lbs. 
 Medium 0.84 to 1.26 in. 10.5 to 12.5 in. 3.5 lbs. 
 Small 1.26 in. 5.5 1 lb. 
 
 The smallest cheese are called Coulommiers in the market 
 but are made exactly like the Brie. The manufacturer of Brie 
 has always been most precarious and even the most experi- 
 enced makers have sometimes been baffled. Only during the 
 last years has science stepped in and explained its workings, 
 and of all no one has done more than Prof. El Duclaux from 
 whose book, "Le Lait," I gather the bacteriological explana- 
 tions in the following. The illustrations and part of the other 
 matters I owe to Prof. A. F. Pouriau's book. 
 
 The buildings used are, as a rule, very simple, and consist 
 of a make room, a drying room, and, in the best factories, a 
 cellar. The rooms are very often kept warmi by being built 
 
53 
 
 close to and in connection with the cow's stable, but it is to be 
 supposed that in view of Prof. Duclaux's work, this objection- 
 able custom will be abandoned and all dairies be fitted up, as 
 the best ones are even now, with steam heat. The walls of all 
 the rooms should be plastered and provided with plenty of 
 openings where screens keep out the flies and the draught may 
 be regulated with slides. Thus the air is kept pure by circu- 
 lation and of a suitable temperature and moisture. The object 
 is to obtain a quick curing cheese and one that will cure uni- 
 formly. The first is a matter of manipulation, but the latter 
 is a matter of securing the right species of microscopical be- 
 ings — bacteria and fungi. Quick ripening is obtained by hav- 
 ing a curd with less coherency and plenty of water, and to se- 
 cure less coherency the milk should be "set" with less rennet, 
 producing a slow coagulation. New milk Brie is made as fol- 
 lows: the milk, having been strained, is set just after milking 
 at a temperature of about 90 deg. Fahr. with sufficient rennet 
 to coagulate in two or three hours (seldom four). The rennet 
 is sometimes added to the milk in a large vat from where the 
 milk is dipped or tapped quickly into jars (Fig. 46), or tin 
 buckets holding either 40, 80 or 130 lbs. It is considered best 
 to have each jar hold just enough for one 
 cheese. Often, but not nearly as good, the 
 rennet is added to each jar by itself. Coag- 
 ulation is considered finished when a finger 
 dipped into the curd does not show any 
 white specks, but simply a little clear whey 
 on being withdrawn. Some makers let it. 
 stand until the whey shows on top but it 
 Fig. 46. ^iu be seen later on why this may be dan- 
 
 gerous. All curd which has been coagulated slowly will have 
 more or less cream on top, and some makers skim it just be- 
 fore the curdling commences. 
 
 The next step is to get rid of the whey without breaking 
 the curd mor-e than necessary and without using any pressure 
 (here is seen the second radical difference in the making of 
 soft cheese from the hard cheese — ^as represented by the Ched- 
 dar, slow coagulation being the first one). The object is to 
 prevent the curd from being too dry and thereby delaying the 
 ripening of the cheese, for this reason it is cut gently in hori- 
 zontal slices with a skimmer (Fig. 47). These slices should be 
 
54 
 
 deposited horizontally without breaking, in the hoop (wood or 
 tin) about 12 inches in diameter and 4^ inches high, which 
 is placed on a wooden plate 14 inches square and one-half inch 
 thick, covered with a straw or rush matting, Fig. 48. Some- 
 times the hoop is only filled half and left to drain for 12 hours 
 
 when the other half is filled in with the cuid of 
 Jji^^^-. The next milking. Though Prof. Duclaux does not 
 
 object to this practice, it seems to me that Dr. 
 
 Klenze was right in criticising it. 
 
 Another thing is not to fill all of the curd in 
 
 the hoop at once, but to begin and fill one hoop 
 
 partly, then the others and then come back to the 
 Fig. 47. ^j,g^ ^^^ gjj jj^ more. This seems to me j^ood 
 
 practice, especially where the milk is allowed to coagulate 
 in a large vat. But to fill in the second half twelve hours 
 later with curd from another milking, is certainly liable to 
 make the cheese uneven in its compos- 
 ition. The hoops are sometimes only 
 2 to 2i inches high, but have then an 
 additional rim 1-i- inches high which is 
 removed when the curd has settled suf- 
 ficiently. In order to facilitate the 
 draining the room should be kept about 
 CO deg. Fahr. and a little higher (65 deg. Fahr.) for skim 
 cheese. 
 
 The whey runs clear 
 from the hoops which 
 are stacked on the 
 moulding table, Fig. 49. 
 About an hour later, 
 when the curd has set- 
 tled somewhat, the up- 
 per board p with hoop 
 A is placed at the bot- 
 tom and the order re- 
 versed while the hoops 
 are twisted and lifted 
 a little to facilitate the 
 draining. This opera- 
 tion is repeated every hour until the curd has about settled 
 
 Figr. 48. 
 
 Fig. 49. 
 
55 
 
 Fig. 50. 
 
 Fig, 
 
 to the height desired in the cheese, when the 
 strap, Fig. 50, is substituted for the hoop. 
 It consists of a hoop made of zinc or tin, 
 about 1^ inches high, which is provided with 
 a hook at c and several holes at o, so that it 
 may be made large or small. The strap is 
 laid round the hoop, the latter removed and the strap tight- 
 ened. The cheese in the straps are then piled up on their 
 
 p _ boards and mats, 7 or 8 
 cheese high, on the moulding 
 table. Early the next morn- 
 ing these piles are removed 
 to the draining table (Fig. 
 51) which is generally made 
 of bricks and covered with 
 slate or sheet lead to pro- 
 tect it against the action of 
 the very sour whey. 
 
 Every six hours the 
 cheese are turned by placing a mat and a board on top of the 
 strap (Fig. 52) and holding it there with one hand, while the 
 under board is grasped with the other hand, thus the cheese 
 is turned with a gentle movement. AVhenever the cheese is 
 turned a clean dry mat is substituted and placed so that the 
 direction of the straw is at a right angle of that of the previ- 
 ous mat, this gives the cheese a chequered surface. Some 
 makers attempt to turn as early as six hours after the curd is 
 tilled in, but that is rather risky and it is safer to wait 24 
 hours. When the cheese is 48 hours 
 old the straps are removed and the 
 cheese salted. This is done with very 
 fine and dry salt which is even some- 
 times heated to prevent its lumping 
 and to facilitate an even distribution Fig. 52. 
 
 over the surface of the cheese. The salt is rubbed on the 
 sides with the fingers (after having pared oif any edge that 
 may project) and sprinkled on the upper end. Some makers 
 replace the hoop after salting the sides for the first time. 
 Twelve hours later the cheese is turned and salted on the 
 other end. If it be too moist when just turned, the salting 
 is delaved a little. 
 
56 
 
 Often a mat of wicker-work is now substituted for the 
 one of straw and I have seen wooden splashers used for this 
 purpose. The time will come, no doubt, when the suggestion 
 of a French author of using finely grooved enameled tin plates 
 for this purpose will be adopted. 
 
 How long and how much the cheese is salted depends on 
 circumstances. Too little salt lessens the keeping quality and 
 causes them to "run," while too much salt makes them too 
 hard and hurts the flavor. In warm weather the salting is 
 commenced earlier and repeated with only 6 or 8 hours inter- 
 val. 
 
 The cheese is left in the salting room two or three days or 
 more, depending on the tenuperature, which should he, as said 
 before, about 60 deg. Fahr., never above 65 deg. They are 
 turned and provided with dry mats twice a day. 
 
 From the make room they are removed into the "drying" 
 room (curing room), which is kept rather cooler, at a tempera- 
 ture of only 56 deg. Fahr., and with a high degree of moisture 
 (about !)o per cent.) At this stage the cheese is a solid mass, 
 but very crumbly and very sour. There is as yet no sign of 
 mould on it, and the acidity has delayed all ripening fermen- 
 tations. 
 
 But on the other hand the acid is favorable to the growth 
 of a mould which lives on acid rather than casein and after 
 some hours in the drying room a very fine white coat of fungi 
 may be observed, the seeding of these is done either through 
 contact with the mats, or from germs floating in the air. On 
 the reguhxtion of the growth of these fungi, depends the suc- 
 cess of the Brie cheese-making. The object is to make them 
 consume as much acidity as possible and yet not develop too 
 much, so as to form a skin over the cheese, that would drain 
 it and dry it too fast. Hence it is important to prevent it 
 from going to seed (forming spores) as this will develop what 
 Prof. Duclaux calls the "dreaded" blue or black fungi. If the 
 temperature is too high it develops the blue ones, if too low 
 the growth increases too much. 
 
 The conditions are best when the fungi form a uniform 
 white network all over the cheese. The cheese are placed on 
 the highest (warmest) shelves the first day and are put down a 
 shelf lower every day, turning them twice a day in order to 
 allow the fungi to develop evenly on both sides and also to 
 
57 
 
 check its too rapid growth. The usefulness of this growth of 
 fungi is only temporary and is simply to prepare the ground 
 for another kind which assists in curing the cheese and then 
 disappears. 
 
 Under the influence of the white fungi, the acidity disap- 
 pears gradually, first on the surface, and when this is neutral, 
 there appears under the white layer a reddish one. This is 
 strongest in the little depressions formed by the straws and is 
 formed by a slimy conglomeration of different kinds of bac- 
 teria all living on casein. This red coat is always hailed with 
 pleasure if it appears at the right time. 
 
 (I may here add that it seems a great many Brie cheese 
 are made, which, according to Dr. Klenze and others, develop 
 the blue fungi after the first white "coat" and then go back to 
 a white one before showing the red spots; this explains the 
 great difference in flavors and shows us how we may regulate 
 them by controlling the condition. The main thing in making 
 any kind of soft curd cheese is to carefully observe the per- 
 ceptible phenomena) and when the result justifies it, see to it 
 that the conditions are always so as to produce them.) 
 
 If the red "coat" does not appear or is too slow in showing 
 up, then there is trouble in the camp, and the makers search 
 high and low, without rest, for the remedy. Doors and win- 
 dows are opened, and closed, the cheese are carried to and fro 
 every place on the farm (even to the rabbitry) in order to find 
 the "best" spot! But all this worry is caused by not under- 
 standing the phenomenon. When the red fungus does not ap- 
 pear, it is nearly always because the acidity has teen developed 
 too much originally, either on account of lack of cleanliness 
 with the jars, a too high temperature, a too slow coagulation 
 or a too slow draining. 
 
 When the acid is just right (does not exceed 5 grammes to 
 the quart) 36 hours of white mold in the curing room should 
 — as a rule — render the surface sufficiently alkaline for the red 
 one to thrive, but it seems that, practically, it takes much 
 longer. Thus Dr. Klenze claims it takes 6 to 8 days for the 
 white mould to become bluish which then first becomes yel- 
 low and then white again before the red appears in the course 
 of 5 or 6 weeks. It seems, however, that modern improve- 
 ment in the controlling of the conditions enables the maker 
 
58 
 
 to obtain the red vegetation at once and lience to ripen the 
 cheese much quicker. But of course the conditions must be 
 favorable and the germs must be present in the straw mats 
 in sufficient quantities. The layer of white mould (or bluish 
 if that has developed) is destroyed and separated at the 
 roots by that slimy layer caused by the bacteria of the red 
 one. By turning the cheese it is broken and adheres to the 
 mat. 
 
 The white mould is, however, constantly reforming in 
 small quantities and the cheese, as it is sold by the farmer to 
 the merchants, is covered by a red skin with a very fine net- 
 work of white or grey mould spread over it. 
 
 Inside, the original whiteness of the curd becomes gradu- 
 ally transparent. This transformation should take place 
 slowly. If it goes on too fast the outside will "run" (liquidize) 
 before the center is cured. A well made cheese should — 
 after being cut and when pressed on the edges — give a feeling 
 of one thick springy cushion and not of two thin ones on 
 either side of a hard, uncured center. This half-firmness of 
 the cured cheese is evidently the result of evenly balanced 
 conditions rather difficult to obtain. 
 
 If a certain proportion of casein, caseone* and water, 
 gives the desired consistency at a certain temperature then 
 the cheese will "run" if the temperature becomes higher with- 
 out a corresponding loss of water. Hence the cheese is kept 
 in a room (cellar) as dry as possible and having rather a tem- 
 perature falling gradually to about 47 to 50 deg. Fahr. (^^ to 10 
 C.) The moisture should also be gradually reduced to about 
 80 per cent. If the cheese are to be kept a longer time it must 
 be done at a still lower temperature. 
 
 The yield is from 12 to 15 lbs. from 100 lbs. of milk, and 
 its composition is given by Ducleaux for a premium clun'se 
 as follows: 
 
 Water 53.81 Water 4i;.06 
 
 Fat 21.60 and an older one Fat 29.50 
 
 Casein 17.40 Casein 10.04 
 
 Salt and Ashes 4.16 Salt and Ashes 4.50 
 
 100.00 100.00 
 
59 
 
 NEUFOHATEL CHEESE. 
 (FronuKjc de Xeiifchatcl). 
 
 The fresh morning's milk (about 90 deg.) is set in a stone 
 jar, holding about 40 pounds or less, and only rennet enough 
 is added to coagulate it in about 24 hours, when standing in a 
 room of about 60 deg., and "hence it is necessary to use a re- 
 liable rennet extract," (says Dr. von Klenze). The Jar may be 
 covered with a woolen blanket or the like, to keep the tem- 
 perature uniform. When coagulated the whole mass is poured 
 into a piece of cheese-cloth, which is either placed in a basket 
 or hung up on four supports fixed for that purpose. Here it 
 is left 12 hours to drain. Then the cloth is gathered together 
 round the curd and placed in a square wooden box, with per- 
 forated bottom and sides, and a pressboard put on with 
 weights, say a few stones, and if more weight is needed a 
 small lever press, as described on page 36, is used; it is press- 
 ed for 12 hours, and then kneaded by hand on dry cloth into a 
 uniform stiff paste; and it requires experience to know the 
 right consistency. If it is too moist, new dry cloths are placed 
 under it, and it is worked until dry enough. But if too dry, it 
 is a sign that either too much rennet has been used, or the 
 curd has been pressed too much. In this case some new curd 
 is added and carefully 
 mixed with the other. 
 When of the right consist- 
 ency, it is put into the 
 molds (Fig. 53), little tin 
 cylinders of 2| inches diam- 
 eter and 3 inches high; 
 as far as that goes, any 
 little empty tin can may 
 be used by unsoldering the 
 top and bottom. After 
 smoothing both ends it is 
 taken out again, and salted on the outside by strewing the salt 
 on both ends and lightly rolling them between the hands cov- 
 ered with salt. 
 
 They are then placed on a draining board, of any kind 
 which is handiest, and left for 24 hours. In the drying-room 
 are lath shelves, on which smooth dry straw is placed, and the 
 
 Fig. 53. 
 
60 
 
 cheese are laid there without touching each other. They are 
 turned often enough not to lose shape or stick to the straw, 
 and in two or three weeks they are covered with their "first 
 skin," which is,- when the white mould showing after five or 
 six days turns into a blue mould. They are now taken to a 
 cellar with similar shelves, where they are placed on end on 
 the straw, and turned every three or four days. After three 
 or four weeks in this place, red spots begin to appear, and the 
 cheese is ready for the mai'ket. It takes 6 lbs. of milk to 1 lb. 
 of cheese. 
 
 This cheese, like all kindred cheese, is hard to produce 
 uniform, unless special rooms are provided, and I describe the 
 manufacture (part of my information being obtained from Dr. 
 von Klenze), just to give an idea about the principle. Experi- 
 menting in the making does not cost much, as 2 or 3 gallons 
 of milk is all that is required, and the outfit need hardly cost 
 anything. 
 
 Instead of straw the wooden mats or "splashers" (made of 
 the same kind of wood as matches) may be used for drying the 
 cheese on. 
 
 The cheese is also, and, I may say, on this side the At- 
 lantic chiefly sold fresh wrapped in tinfoil, like the French 
 cream cheese. I regret to say some very poor ones from skim 
 milk, which are in reality nothing but cottage cheese, are sold 
 under this name. 
 
 In large factories special machinery is used for moulding, 
 whereby 1,200 can be formed in one hour. 
 
 PROF. HABCKER'S "IDEAL" CALF. OMAHA'S POTTY. 
 
61 
 
 CREAM CHEESE. 
 
 "While the "Brie" cannot be sold fresh and the "Neuf- 
 chatel" may only be sold comparatively so (2 weeks), and 
 thus require care and skill in curing, the fresh cream cheese 
 require only neatness and cleanliness. 
 
 FRENCH CREAM CHEESE. 
 
 {Fromage a la Greme.) 
 Enough rennet is added to the morning's milk, set in a 
 jar at a temperature of 70 deg., to coagulate in two or three 
 hours, and then left for 20 or 24 hours. Instead of any special 
 mould, a common hair sieve may be used. After pouring out 
 the whey gathered on top of the curd, cut it with a skim- 
 mer in slices and lay it in the sieve to drain; when this is done, 
 cream in quantities to suit (but not more 
 than that from an equal quantity of milk as 
 was coagulated), is then added, and mixed by 
 mashing with a wooden pestle, like a potato 
 masher, until it is a uniform paste; this is 
 then placed in wicker moulds, lined with 
 Fig. 55. muslin, as a rule, heart shaped (Fig. 55), and 
 
 it is ready for use. It must be kept in ice-box if wanted to 
 keep several days. 
 
 DOUBLE CREAM CHEESE. 
 
 (Fromage double creme dit suisse.) 
 This is the most popular cream cheese in Paris and it is 
 said that about 40,000 are consumed daily in that city. Ac- 
 cording to Pourian it is made as follows : 
 
 Ten pounds of cream and 64 lbs. of new milk are mixed 
 carefully and brought to a temperature of 55 to 57 deg. Fahr. 
 Enough diluted rennet extract is added to make it coagulate 
 in 20 to 24 hours. The curd is cut in flat pieces with a skim- 
 mer and laid on a linen cloth which is folded over it so as to 
 form a sort of press bag. These are laid in a perforated box 
 with boards between each bag and when the first flow of 
 whey stops, then they are loaded with a weight of any kind 
 on top of a board. This pressing takes as a rule 16 to 18 
 hours. 
 
 The curd is then spread on a large table and worked and 
 kneaded by hand, while adding enough cream to give it a uni- 
 form smooth consistency, after which it is left on the table 
 some hours to become firmer. 
 
C2 
 
 The moulding may be done by taking in the right hand 
 enough curd to make a cheese on a piece of paper and rolling 
 it into a small cylinder. 
 This cannot be recom- 
 mended for commercial 
 purposes. In Fig. 56 is 
 shown a moulding device 
 which is suitable for a 
 small output. It consists 
 of a square piece of per- Fig. 56. 
 
 forated tinned steel on low feet (so as to place on a table.) 
 On top of this is square tin box without bottom in the cover 
 of which are soldered a number of cylinders of the desired 
 size. By the aid of a wooden piston the cylinders are lined 
 with a roll of paper. The curd is then dumped on top of the 
 mold and pressed into the cylinders and struck oflE smoothly 
 with a piece of board. The whole "form" is then lifted care- 
 fully, leaving the cheese in their paper wrapping on the per- 
 forated tinplate. They are then packed for the market. 
 
 An enormous machine, which costs about |1,000 in France, 
 is used when the cheese is made on a large scale. 
 
 The cheese as analysed by Pourian has 55 per cent, water, 
 30 % fat and 15 % casein, etc. 1 dozen weigh about 2 lbs. 
 
 EXCJLISH CEEAH CHEESE. 
 
 Very thick cream is poured carefully into a linen bag 
 and this hung up, with a basin underneath to catch the whey, 
 in a cool room or cellar. There must be pure air in the room, 
 as the cream easily absorbs odors. When the whey is drained 
 off partly, the bag is twisted tight and bound so as to dry the 
 curd more and after 24 to 48 hours, according to temperature, 
 and the consistency of the cream, the "cheese" is ready fo 
 eat, and may be moulded as desired. This is hardly cheese, 
 or should perhaps be called a "sour cream cheese." 
 
 MASCARPANI. 
 
 In Italy another cream cheese is made, though Its title 
 to the name of cheese may be disputed. According to Pouriau, 
 it is made from sweet (?) cream skimmed after the milk has 
 been set about 15 hours (shallow setting). It is heated in a 
 water bath to 167 deg., and then coagulated with a little vine- 
 gar or lemon juice. The curd is put in a cloth which is twist- 
 ed more and more to get rid of the whey. When dry enough 
 it is moulded. 
 
63 
 
 CHEESE MADE FROM SOUR MILK. 
 
 (Without Rennet.) 
 
 SOUR CUED. 
 
 Under a great many names, cheese is also made from 
 skimmilk without rennet. The casein is separated from the 
 whey by the spontaneous coagulation of the milk. This co- 
 agulation is produced either by leaving the milk in a warm 
 place or by heating it over a fire with the addition of sour 
 buttermilk. 
 
 There is, in the manufacture of these cheese, a sad lack of 
 system and the preparation in some cases is very disgusting. 
 Thus the milk will sometimes be left tO' coagulate in a dirty 
 barrel where a little sour milk is left from day to day and 
 where of course all kinds of fermentations — even that of tyro- 
 toxicon or cheese poison — may be started. There is no con- 
 trol, it is all guesswork and the smell of the barrels becomes 
 as bad as any swill barrel. 
 
 The proper way is to heat the skim milk to about 90 deg. 
 and keep it there until it is perceptibly sour, then heat it 
 slowly until the curd separates, which, as a rule, happens at 
 115 deg.; keep it well stirred until the separation is perfect, 
 which generally happens at about 145 deg. ; the mass is then 
 drained in a bag of fine linen or cotton, or on cloth stretched 
 on frames, and when dry the curd is worked well, either by 
 kneading like bread with the hands or by mashing in a wooden 
 tub with a potato masher. This rather dry curd forms the 
 basis of the different kinds of cheese, and before going any 
 further, I may give a hint of an improvement which I made 
 while experimenting with Hansen's Dry Lactic Ferment. 
 
 PASTEURIZED SOUR CURD. 
 
 Take perfectly sweet skim milk and heat in a water bath 
 to 160 deg. Keep it between 150 and 160 deg. for twenty 
 minutes, then cool to 88 deg. and add 5 or 10 per cent, of 
 Startoline (prepared according to directions for use from a 
 reliable "Lactic Ferment") according to the time in which 
 the coagulation is desired. As soon as thoroughly coagulated 
 dip it into bags of fine linen (two layers of cheese cloth may 
 be used) and drain for 12 to 24 hours. Then tie up the bags 
 and press them on a slanting table or plank. The pressure, 
 which may be obtained any convenient way (simply by lay- 
 
64 
 
 ing a board loaded with stones on top) should be increased 
 from, say 2 lbs., for every pound of curd up to 6 or 8 pounds, 
 but experience will soon tell that, by watching the whey 
 coming out. As a rule the curd will be found dry enough 
 after 24 hours pressing and it is then ready for further man- 
 ipulation. 
 
 Curd prepared this way will have the following advant- 
 ages: 
 
 1. It will be free from any deleterious bacteria, such as 
 tuberculosis, etc. 
 
 2. It will always be uniform. 
 
 3. It will have a more pasty consistency, giving, in fact, 
 the impression of a much richer cheese. 
 
 If considered too pasty the curd may be heated before 
 draining and here, as with any kind of sour curd, the dryness 
 (grittiness) will be increased exactly in proportion to the in- 
 crease of the temperature to which it is heated. 
 
 DUTCH CHEESE OR "COTTAGE CHEESE." 
 
 One of the most common forms in which these are sold is 
 simply a round hand-formed ball weighing according to the 
 liberality of the maker all the way from f to 1 lb., retailing at 
 5c a ball. These are prepared from the curd, howsoever ob- 
 tained, by working a little skim milk, new milk, or cream into 
 it, adding sufflcient salt and sometimes caraway seed. They 
 are sold fresh and their quality varies greatly according to the 
 care and cleanliness and the quantity of cream used in their 
 make. When my suggestions are adopted the milk or cream 
 should be pasteurized if a longer keeping quality is desired, 
 but a rather finer flavor will be obtained by using perfectly 
 sweet, un-pasteurized cream. It does not take much. 
 
 "schmibrkase" or "baker's" cheese. 
 
 In the Blast and elsewhere there is quite a trade for sour 
 curd prepared in a primitive fashion. It is simply drained 
 and then 1 gallon of sweet skim milk is stirred into the con- 
 tents of a 5 gal. milk can, and the stuff is shipped thus to the 
 cities, where it often arrives in such a fermentative state that 
 it overflows the cans. In the city, it is either sold as it is by 
 the pound or used by bakers for making German "Kase 
 Kuchen" (cheese cake). 
 
 The sour curd is, however, manipulated in a great many 
 other ways and sold in the different countries under different 
 
05 
 
 names, and I shall only indicate two, so as to stir up the en- 
 terprising dairyman's (maid's) imagination, inducing him to 
 produce some specialty for which a local sale and— who 
 knows, perhaps, in the course of time— a national reputation 
 may be obtained. 
 
 "PULTOST" NORWEGIAN. 
 
 Though a cheese by this name is also made from sweet 
 milk with rennet, I describe only the one made from sour 
 skim milk. The curd being produced as described above, a 
 little buttermilk is added to promote fermentation, and it is 
 then rammed firmly into a mould hoop. This mould— shape 
 immaterial — is then put in a bag, partly to keep the cheese 
 warm and partly to keep the flies out. Sticks are laid across 
 the top of the mould to prevent the bag from sagging and 
 touching the curd. 
 
 In one or two days the curd commences to "heat" and be- 
 comes yellow. It must then be stirred up again (worked) and 
 replaced in the mould. This is repeated two or three times. 
 When the smell and taste show that the desired fermentation 
 is obtained, the curd is salted and flavored with caraway seed 
 according to taste, and, if a little too dry, a little milk or 
 better still, a little thick cream is added. It may then either 
 be sold as it is, or be packed in boxes or barrels for two or 
 three months whereby the piquant flavor (!) is increased con- 
 siderably. It stands to reason that this flavor will to a great 
 extent depend on the temperature maintained during the fer- 
 mentation, especially the one before salting; and after the de- 
 sired flavor has been decided on (by experiments at different 
 temperatures) the temperature selected should be maintained 
 every day so as to get a uniform result. The heat developed 
 in the curd has been observed to be 86 deg. during the first 
 days and later even as high as 119 deg. 
 
 The yield is, as a rule, 16.8 lbs. fresh and 13.1 lbs. fer- 
 mented cheese from 100 lbs. of skim milk with an addition of 
 10 lbs. of buttermilk. 
 
 "neiheimer" cheese. 
 The home of the world-renowned Westphalian ham is also 
 the home of this cheese. The curd is separated at a tempera- 
 ture between 100 and 120 deg. and drained for 24 hours in a 
 bag. After "working'' it into a smooth fine paste it is spread 
 in a layer from 2 to 5 inches thick in a trough (box) and kept 
 in an airy and cool cellar. During the first 3 to 8 days it is 
 
66 
 
 turned daily until it has a uniform light yellow color. Then 
 about 1 to 3 per cent, salt and a little caraway seed is worked 
 into the curd and it is formed by hand into little loaves like 
 French breakfast rolls. 
 
 If the curd is too dry to mould it is moistened with beer 
 or milk. 
 
 The drying of the loaves is done on mats made of willow 
 work (wooden slats will do) covered with a thin layer of straw 
 which is changed now and then. 
 
 When dry they are packed for curing in boxes or barrels 
 with hops which have been used for brewing but have been 
 partly dried again. It is a fine point to have the hops (in 
 making some other kinds of cheese straw or chaff) with the 
 right quantity of moisture, so as to ensure a proper curing of 
 the cheese. 
 
 HAND CHEESE. 
 
 (Hand Ease.) 
 
 Dr. F. Stohmann gives a description from articles pub- 
 lished in the MilcJi Zeitung of this cheese as made in modern 
 German creameries. 
 
 The separator skim milk is set in a heavily tinned vat or 
 kettle and the buttermilk from that day's churning is added; 
 as a rule the temperature will be about 90 deg. Fahr., and the 
 milk is left alone 12 to 18 hours. The next morning the milk 
 is heated to 122 deg. Fahr., while stirring it carefully so that 
 the floating curd does not sink and yet enough to secure a 
 uniform' heat in the whole mass. After it has been heated 
 for one to one and a half hour, the curd is left for about 2 
 hours more, after which the whey 
 is drawn off by a syphon. When 
 the whey is drawn the curd is 
 spread in a large trough to cool, 
 wherebv it loses its stickv char- 
 acter. It is next run through a 
 curd crusher (Fig. .57) to reduce it 
 to uniform size. 
 
 The crusher or mill has wooden 
 or stone rollers which may be reg- 
 ulated. While it is being ground, 
 salt at the rate of from 3 to 5 per 
 cent, and caraway or other spices 
 are mixed with the curd and this ^'s- s^. 
 
 is carried from under the mill by an endless cloth belt to the 
 
07 
 
 press. The press is illustrated in Pig. 58, and consists of 
 
 a large square box, 
 
 perfoi-ated and lined 
 
 with slats inside ; 
 
 these are covered with 
 
 a heavY press cloth 
 
 and the pressure on 
 
 the cover is secured 
 
 by a combination of 
 
 lever and screw which 
 
 explains itself. The 
 
 curd is pressed, as a 
 
 rule, for one day, but 
 
 must not become drier 
 
 than it will stick to- 
 
 g ether again if 
 
 squeezed to a ball in g 
 
 the hand. 
 
 The molding of the Fig. ss. 
 
 cheese is done by simply having metal (hoops) rings of the 
 
 Fig. 59. 
 
 desired size and placing these on 
 a board, then filling them with a 
 lump of curd and smooth it off 
 with a wet knife and remove the 
 ring, leaving the cheese on the 
 board. ' Or, the simple device il- 
 lustrated in Fig. 59 may be used, 
 but in large factories the ma- 
 chine made by Traiser in Gros Ge- 
 ran, Germany, seems to be labor- m 
 saving. With the use of f-horse- p- 
 power the machine forms 3,000 |^ 
 cheese an hour, served by two m 
 men only, doing the work of six. M 
 It costs POO.OO in Germany. See ^ 
 Fig. 60. 
 
 Fig. 
 
(JS 
 
 •^^^HElY CHEiE'SB." 
 
 As shown before, there is left in the whey a small quan- 
 tity of casein and most of the milk sugar and salt as well as 
 what has been called by nearly all scientists the ''albumen." 
 Prof. Ducleaux in his latest book, "Le Lait," seems to discredit 
 
 "MILKING THE GOAT." 
 
 From a photograph obtained from the Swedish Importing and Exporting 
 Company who handle the true Norwegian Whey Cheese and other Scandinavian 
 delicacies, at 17 Dearborn St., Chicago. 
 
 this and calls it casein in another form. Be that as it may, 
 this stuff is not recovered by rennet coagulation at the tem- 
 
G9 
 
 perature of ordiDary cheese-making, but by adding a little 
 -sour whey and heating the whole mass to 165 deg. Fahr. (74 C). 
 It is then coagulated and separated from the whey floating 
 •on the top. This is skimmed off, cooled and pressed for 24 
 hours, making what the Germans call "Ziegerkase," but the 
 most renowned whey cheese of this kind is the Norwegian. 
 
 "myseost" (oe "primost.") 
 
 This cheese is really condensed whe^ and may be made 
 from whey obtained either from cheese made of cow's milk 
 or goat's milk, full cream or skimmed. 
 
 On a large scale, a regular vacuum pan or a steam jack- 
 eted boiler is used, but on the farm any boiler at hand*, large 
 or small, may be put in use, a wood fire being preferable. If 
 there is not boiler-room enough to start all the whey boiling 
 ^t once, part of the whey should be cooled — or else heated to 
 180 deg. — to prevent a too great progress in the acidity, while 
 the rest is being condensed. And here I may remark, that 
 the quicker the whey is drawn from the curd the sweeter it is, 
 and the better the whey cheese will be. If more than one 
 boiler is used, it is well to concentrate it on one as soon as it is 
 -condensed enough to allow this. When the whey boils, a 
 flecky foam' ("zieger") will rise and the best makers remove 
 this by skimming, not only in order not to boil the "zieger" un- 
 necessarily, but also to facilitate the evaporation. Efven so 
 will stirring help the evaporation, but it is not essential at 
 this stage when a lively boiling may be maintained. As soon 
 as the mass is condensed so as to be like syrup the "zieger" 
 may be returned and at this stage cream, preferably from 
 goat's milk, should also be added in quantities according to 
 the quality of cheese desired to be made. From this time on, 
 a constant stirring should be kept up, and the fire be regulated 
 carefully, so as not to burn the cheese, which will give it a 
 dark color and less fine flavor. 
 
 As soon as the mass is about like thin mush, the boiler is 
 lifted from the flre and the contents poured into a large round 
 wooden bowl where it is kept stirred and worked with a 
 wooden pestle (like a potato masher). This may, of course, 
 also be done in the boiler, especially if it is a round one with 
 curved bottom, but on the conscientious performance of this 
 work depends whether the cheese shall be comparatively fine 
 
 *3i;nameled boilers are the best. 
 
70 
 
 find smooth or gritty as if full of sand. Indeed it is such hard 
 work that it takes two persons to alternate at it. Possibly 
 on a large scale a bread kneading machine might be used. 
 
 The working is kept up until cool, when the mass is 
 moulded in the shape of bricks, the forms for which anyone 
 can make by nailing narrow boards together. These forms 
 (hoops) are placed on a board and the mass is pressed carefully 
 in with a wooden spattel so that there is no airhole left, and 
 the top side is smoothed nicely. Some makers put a light 
 pressure on. The next day they are taken out by loosening 
 them from the sides of the hoop with a thin knife and in a 
 day or two they are ready to eat or ship to the market packed 
 in wax paper and tin-foil. 
 
 This cheese should not be eaten in lumps like Cheddar or 
 Gouda, but sliced thin and eaten on bread and butter, when it 
 will be found to be a relish, especially to children. It is a 
 healthy, nourishing addition to the bill of fare and will be 
 found very useful in preparing sandwiches for school lunches. 
 The open market is, however, limited, and, unless the quality 
 is very good, very risky, as the consumption at present is 
 limited nearly exclusively to Scandinavians. The imported 
 Norwegian cheese retails in Chicago at 25 cents a pound, 
 while a poor imitation may be bought at 5 or 6 cents. 
 
 I have now shown how every particle of the milk may be 
 preserved for human food and though I might have written 
 more on the matter, I hope I have given the readers some 
 hints that will be found useful, and that they may not spoil 
 as much milk as I did when I first started making cheese, so 
 to say, from a book. Some milk they must spoil — more or 
 less — as practical experience is indispensable. 
 
 I may add as a curiosity that a late patent covers the pro- 
 cess of utilizing the whey in another manner by extracting 
 the fat and milk sugar and then making a "milk meat ex- 
 tract" by condensing. I do not take much stock in the in- 
 vention, and nor can I rejoice in the many ways introduced 
 for making milk powder or dry casein, be it for food use or 
 industrial use. Up to the present time none of these pro- 
 cesses have enabled the creamerymen to pay the farmer more 
 than 15 cents a 100 lbs. for the skim milk and at that price 
 we cannot afford to rob the soil by selling instead of feeding 
 it on the farm. 
 
71 
 
 THE FEEDING VALUE OP SKIM MILK AND 
 ITS PBODUCTS. 
 
 AS A HUMAN FOOD. 
 
 That the farmers who have an abundance of new milk 
 should look with contempt on skim-milk may be forgiven, but 
 when we find that the learned Board of Health of New York 
 actually prohibit its sale under its own name, I more than 
 suspect that this is a case of laziness rather than ignorance as 
 it is easier to compel milk-men to dump the skim-milk, than to 
 enact and enforce regulations compelling them to have the 
 cans properly marked. The result is that the poorer class buy 
 skim-milk as new at 4 to 5 cents per quart. 
 
 This reckless waste of a healthy, nourishing food product 
 is a crying shame and it makes my blood boil whenever I hap- 
 pen to pass through the child crowded streets in the poorer 
 districts of any large city. In Chicago I once suggested to a 
 milk dealer that he sell good skim-milk under its own name at 
 a reasonable price (2 or 3 cents a quart), implying that not 
 only would this be a work of philanthropy, but also one of 
 profit to himself. With a meaning smile of pity for my ignor- 
 ance of "bizz" he said: "That may all be, but there is more 
 money in selling it as new milk! See?" 
 
 New milk (average) is considered to have a food value 
 making 3J lbs. equal to 1 pound of boneless meat. In skim- 
 ming milk — while we remove the part which has the largest 
 commercial value, the butter-fat — we only deprive it of a 
 small part of its nutritive value, and this can easily be re- 
 placed by some cheaper substitute. In reply to an inquiry 
 Dr. Babcock writes me: "In regard to the feeding value, I 
 believe that in the average milk, the fat is worth about one- 
 third as much as the total solids." Based on this a quart of 
 skim milk should be worth 2-3 of whatever new milk is sold 
 for, or, roughly speaking, 5 lbs. (2^ quarts) of sweet skim milk 
 has the same nutritive value as 1 lb. of boneless meat and 2 
 or even 3 cents a quart would make it cheap food in our larger 
 cities. 
 
 By making a | skim cheese and whey cheese the farmer 
 may preserve all the surplus of milk for future use. 
 
72 
 
 FOR STOCK. 
 
 It often astouisliGs me to hear of the small value which 
 patrons of creameries aud cheese factories place on skim milk 
 and whey. If preserved sweet — and that can be done by pas- 
 teurizing if the new milk is delivered at the factory in good 
 shape — it is certainly worth 2.5 cents per 100 lbs. on an aver- 
 age. It is true, experiments have been made, where by feeding 
 it to growing animals for a short time (calves for veal) it has 
 been proved worth 50 to 5.5c for a short period, and even so 
 when feeding young pigs, there are times when the value may 
 be figured at such high prices. I consider 25 cents per 100 
 lbs. a conservative average estimate when used intelligently 
 in connection with grain, and shall now only mention the re- 
 sult of some experiments. Prof. Henry found that it took 
 1,430 lbs. of skim milk and 301 lbs. of corn meal to gain 100 
 lbs. in weight in mature hogs, but only 1,024 lbs. of skim milk 
 and 174 lbs. of corn meal to obtain the same gain in grmviruj 
 hogs. The moral is evident! and yet, how many farmers per- 
 sist in throwing away feed on hogs which ought to have been 
 in Chicago several months ago! Again he found that in feed- 
 ing skim milk to calves, with hay at |8 and grain at |15 per 
 ton, it was worth 25 cents per 100 lbs., when the gain in 
 weight was figured at 4 cents per pound. The same kind of 
 milk fir^ coagulated with rennet was made worth 28 cents 
 based on the same calculations. 
 
 Again in another experiment he made skim milk worth 
 20.6 cents per 100 lbs. feeding it to hogs valued at 4 cents per 
 pound live weight and the grain fed worth $15 per ton. The 
 hogs were 114 days old when the experiment commenced, and 
 the test lasted 96 days. I venture to say that if the test had 
 been commenced when they were 50 days old, the value of the 
 milk would have been double. As to whey, Prof. Henry found 
 that by partly substituting it for grain 758 lbs. of whey saved 
 100 lbs. of grain. If grain is worth $12 per ton, whey should 
 then be worth 8 cents per 100 lbs. Whey should never be 
 fed without grain. Shorts, peameal and oilmeal should be 
 used for growing animals with some corn meal added, in- 
 creasing the latter as the animals mature. 
 
 Prof. Fjord came to the result that one pound of barley or 
 rye was equal to five pounds of skim milk or ten pounds of 
 whey, thus he puts the value of whey a trifle higher as com- 
 pared with that of skim milk than does Prof. Henry. 
 

 "SIMPLEX" 
 
 Write for Prices 
 
 of 
 
 Combined Churn and 
 
 Apparatus 
 
 Butter Worker. . . 
 
 and 
 
 "FACILE" 
 
 Supplies 
 
 Babcock Testers. 
 
 FOE THE 
 
 "B. &W." 
 
 BTiiSE 
 
 Milk Check Pump. 
 
 \J I La lAKJ lA 
 
 FACTORY 
 
 "B. &W." 
 
 Double Surface Milk Heater. 
 
 OR 
 
 SPRAGUE 
 
 CREAMERY 
 
 Adjustable Gang Cheese Press, 
 
 
 Increasing Pressure 
 Attachment. 
 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 CHR. HANSEN'S 
 
 £%^^^^ 
 
 Danish Dairy Preparations. 
 
 '^1^^^ 
 
 RENNET EXTRACT 
 
 ^"^ 
 
 Cheese and Butter Colors. 
 
 "FACILE JUNIOR." 
 
 
 D. H. BUF 
 
 ?RELL&eO. 
 
 LITTLE FALLS, 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
The Two Leaders 
 
 U, S. Cream Separators 
 
 AND 
 
 ^^Agos^' Babcock Testers. 
 
 Once Used, Always Used. 
 
 We handle a complete line of Dairy and 
 Creamery Apparatus. 
 
 Write For Illustrated 
 Catalogues. 
 
 Yerfflont Farm 
 Machine Co., 
 
 BELLOWS FALLS, VT. 
 
Cheese Making ^ 
 S' on the Farm. 
 
 Btir. Hansen's Rennet Tatilets 
 
 AND 
 
 Clir. Hansen's Gtieese Color TaMets. 
 
 Sead 50c for a box of 24 No. 2 Rennet Tablets, and 30c for a vial 
 of 12 Oheese Color Tablets. 
 
 For Factory Cheese Making, use: 
 
 Chr. Hansen's Danish Rennet Extract, 
 
 AND 
 
 Chr. Hansen's Danish Cheese Color. 
 
 Both liquids, the Standard of the world. 
 
 The Marshall Rennet Test 
 
 Is a valuable guide for determining the condition of the 
 milk in the cheese vat. 
 
 For Butter Making, use 
 
 Chr. Hansen's Danish Butter Color, 
 
 A pure Annatto Color, or the 
 
 Columbian Butter Color, 
 
 The Strongest in the Market. 
 
 Chr, Hansen's Lactic Ferment 
 
 Ripens the cream or the milk to perfection. 
 Vrite For Information, to 
 
 CHR. HKNSEN'S 
 
 LABORATORY, 
 
 p. O. BOX 1010. 
 
 LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 
 
-pacf^ess'of 
 
 STURGES & BURN 
 MFG. CO., 
 
 Chicago, St. Paul, Kansas City. 
 HEADQUARTERS FOR 
 
 .♦.Sturges.*. 
 Seamless Cheese Hoops, 
 
 Milk Cans, Cheese Presses, Curd Mills, Cheese Boxes' 
 Bandages, Followers, Rennet, Cheese Color, 
 
 Scale Boards. 
 
 We have the best stock of 
 
 Cheese Factory and 'ff s^ 
 ^ s^ Creamery Supplies 
 
 In the Country. We can convince you of this 
 by a trial order. Write for Catalogue. 
 
THE 
 CURTIS 
 
 CHANNEL 
 
 VAT 
 
 with The Curtis Whey Strainer and The Curtis Curd Rack 
 
 IS A COMBINATION FOR CHEESE MAKING 
 THAT EXCELS' ALL OTHERS 
 
 SEND FOR CATALOGUE containing prices of all Supplies necessary for 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 CORNISH, CURTIS & GREENE MANUFACTURING CO., 
 
 FT. ATKINSON, WISCONSIN. 
 
 KEITH'S BUTTER and 
 CHEESE CULTURES, 
 
 Reliable Pure Liquid Cultures lor ripening cream lor either pasteurized 
 or raw cream butter, and a Special Culture for Ripening Milk for Cheese- 
 Making as recommended by the Wisconsin Agl. Experiment Station. 
 
 The numerous premiums that have been awarded users of these Cul- 
 tures during the past five years, testily as to their sterling quality and to 
 the care used In producing them. I invite your careful investigation. 
 Sample and instructions free by mail. 
 
 SIMEON C. KEITH, JR., Bacteriologist. 
 Soccessor toO. Douglass Butter Culture Co. Charlestown, Mass. 
 
 Good Salts Must Be Used in Cheese. 
 
 The Idea that "any old" salt will do has long ago been proved false. 
 
 ASHTON'S, 
 
 EUREKA, 
 
 CADILLAC, 
 
 Are the best frfin-*- n 
 
 FRANCIS D. MOULTON & CO., 
 
 New York. Chicago. 
 
^^ POHL^S . , , 
 
 ,^^m^ SELF-SALTING 
 
 ^g CURD MILL 
 
 .'^^^^b»i Over 2,000 Are in Actual Use .jflt 
 
 «ifi#!Sis4?sffiSl^| Giving Entire Satisfaction, r* 
 
 Now the only recognized Ourd Mill on the market that worka on the true prin- 
 ciple. It Is the lightest, the easiest to turn. Does not squeeze or Injure the curd, 
 needs no sink, grinds aod salts at one time; will not clog. It salts every particle 
 ol curd evenly, and will grind 8 or 10 cheese In five minutes. For floating curds, 
 this mill is indispensable, and with the salting attachment this is the best and 
 most desirable mill ever made. 
 
 It has been put to the severest tests and never found wanting. All flrat-class 
 factories use it. At the World's Fair it was used in the manufacture of all the 
 cheese turned out in the great competitive test between the breeds, and won for 
 Itself the highest commendation from the most critical Judges. Every one that 
 uses this mill always speaks ol it in the highest terms, as it brings them higher 
 prices lor their product. Send for circulars, etc. 
 
 POHL'S AUTOMATIC CURD AGITATOR, a machine lately brought out tor 
 
 stirring curd during the cooking 
 
 process. It will pay you to send for circulars, and get a machine on trial. 
 
 STEAM ENGINES AT HARD-TIMES PRICES, For further particulars, 
 
 ^^^.^^_^^^^^^____^_^^_^^_^^^^^^_ Address 
 
 GEO. D. POHL M'FG. CO., Vernon, N. Y. 
 
 General Western Agents : Cornish, Curtis & Oreene Mfg Co., Ft. Atkinson, Wis., and 
 
 Creamery Package Mfg. Co., Chicago, HI. 
 General Agents for the Paeiflc Coast: O. Q. Wiekson & Co., San Francisco and Lots 
 
 Angeles, Cal., arid Portland, Oregon. 
 
 SUBSCRIBE TO 
 
 n^u>York Produce Rcvicip. 
 
 THE REGULAR WEEKLY 
 
 Cheesemaking Department 
 
 AND 
 
 Market Reports 
 
 Are worth, twice the subscription price, which is $1.00 per year 
 
 in advance. 
 
 Subscribers are invited to call for information when needing- it. 
 
 Send for Sample copy to 
 
 173 Chambers St., - New York City 
 
Memoranda. 
 
Memoranda. 
 
DAIRYMEN SHOULD READ 
 
 Dairy and Greamcry 
 Papers and Books 
 
 -If if 'If 
 
 "Hoard's Dairyman" (Weekly), Fort Atkinson, Wis $1.00 
 
 "Chicago Dairy Produce" (weekly), Chicago, 111 1.50 
 
 "New York Produce Review" (weekly). New York 1.00 
 
 "The Dairy Record" (weekly), St. Paul, Minn ; 50 
 
 "Creamery Journal" (monthly), Waterloo, ' Iowa 1.00 
 
 "American Cheesemaker" (monthly). Grand Rapids, Mich BO 
 
 "Elgin Dairy Report" (weekly), Elgin, 111 1.00 
 
 "The Dalr^r World" (monthly), Chicago, 111 1.00 
 
 "Paclflo Coast Dairyman" (semi-monthly), Tacoma, Wash 1.00 
 
 "The Western Creamery" (monthly), San Ftanclsco, Cal 1.00 
 
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 "The Nebraska Dairyman" (monthly), Lincoln, Neb 1.50 
 
 "The Dairy Age" (monthly), Topeka, Kan 50 
 
 "The Milk Reporter" (monthly), Deckertown, N. Y 1.00 
 
 "The Milk News" (monthly), Chicago, 111 1.00 
 
 "A B C IN CHEESE MAKING," by J. H. Monrad. (Cheddar, Gouda, 
 
 Skifii Cheese, Brie, Neufchatel, Cottage and Whey Cheese! 
 
 Price soc 
 
 "A BCIN BUTTER MAKING," byJ. H. Monrad Price 50c 
 
 "CHEESE MAKING IN SWITZERLAND," (Swiss, Brick and Litn- 
 
 burger), by J. H. Monrad Price 50c 
 
 "PASTEURIZATION," by J. H. Monrad (second edition).. . .Price 50c 
 
 "Feeds and Feeding," by Prof. W. A. Henry $2.00 
 
 "A Hand Book for Farmers and Dairymen," by Prof. Well 1.50 
 
 "AmMcan Dairying," by H, B. Gurler 1.00 
 
 "Modern Dairying" (Grotenfelt), by Prof. F. W. WoU 2.00 
 
 "Dairy Bacteriology," b^ Prof. H. L. Russell , . , 1.00 
 
 "Cheese and Butter Makers' Hand Book," by J. B. Harris v' l;0O 
 
 "Cheese Malting," by Prof. J. W. Decker (Cheddar, Swiss, 
 
 Brick, Limburger, Edam, Cottage) 175 
 
 "A Treatise on Cheese Making," by G. E. Newell BO 
 
 "The Testing of Milk and Its Products," by Profs. E. H. Far- 
 
 ingtonand F. W, WoU 100 
 
 "Indian Corn Culture," by Prof. C. S. Plumb 1.00 
 
 "Butter Fat and Dividend Calculator," by A. Schoenman 2.00 
 
 "Milk and Its Products," by Prof. H. H. Wing :. 1.00 
 
 "Common Sense Ideas for Dairymen," by Geo. H. Blake 1.00 
 
 "The Boole of the Dairy," (translated) Prof . Fleischmann. .... 4.00 
 Mailed direct from publishers, on receipt of price, at buyer's risk, (unless 
 g cents extra Is remitted for registration). 
 
 J. H. MONRAD, yVinnetka, Cook Co., III. 
 
350,000 
 
 MACHINES IN USE 
 
 Ten Times All Other Makes Combrned 
 
 THE STANDARD OF ALL THAT'S BEST IN 
 DAIRYING IN EVERY COUNTRY IN THE 
 WORLD. THAT'S THE HISTORY OF THE 
 
 DE LAVAL 
 
 CREAM ^ at 
 SEPARATORS 
 
 Which possess the patent protected "ALPHA-DISC" and 
 "SPLIT-WING" IMPROVEMENTS, and are as much super- 
 ior to other Cream Separators as such other Separ- 
 . ators are to gravity setting methods. 
 
 Send for New "20th Century" Catalogue 
 
 The DeLaval Separator Co. 
 
 Randolph and Canal Sts. 227 Commissioners St. 
 
 Chicago. General Offices: Montreal. 
 
 II02 Arch Street ^^ Cortlandt St. ^' »"^ '''' ^»''' »*««* 
 
 Philadelphia. Toronto. ^ 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 217-222 Drumm Street 148 McDeimot Avenue 
 
 San Francisco. Winnipeg.