. ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY Cornell University Library TT 820.C62 p. 11 Cornell University 10 M Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003593427 KNITTING WITHOUT "SPECIMENS" Knitted Hug-Me-Tight or Bolero. {Frotttispiect) KNITTING WITHOUT "SPECIMENS" THE MODERN BOOK OF SCHOOL KNITTING AND CROCHET BY ELLEN P. CLAYDON HEAD MISTRESS OF CHUCKERY COUNCIL SCHOOL, WALSALL J AUTHOR OF " HANDWORK AND NEEDLEWORK " AND C. A. CLAYDON SEWING MISTRESS, TANTARRA STREET MIXED SCHOOL, WALSALL NEW YORK E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY 681 FIFTH AVENUE LL. Printed by Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., London PREFACE. Many books have been published during the last few years dealing with modern methods in the teaching of sewing. Fewer attempts, however, have been hitherto made to deal adequately with the teaching of knitting and crochet work as sections of Needlework Teaching, and as enjoyable forms of Handwork for girls. These occupations are, nevertheless, not only very useful branches of Needle- work, but among the most attractive subjects to girls in the whole curriculum. Moreover, such work as knitting and crochet, in which they are instinctively interested, is certainly that which is most likely to survive their school days. It is wise, therefore, to feed the interest of the girls in these useful occupations, and to meet their eager demands for help. We may then expect that their education in this direction will become a " self-feeding fire," carrying them far, and not only providing delightful and healthy occupations for leisure hours in after-school days, but proving, further, of great social service to others. The revised " Suggestions for the Teaching of Needlework " advances yet another argument in support of Knitting as an occupation, which may well be quoted here : — " Facility in Knitting can only be acquired early, and in old age or ill-health has a value distinct from that of the garments produced." The subject, however, should be so taught that the maximum of mental develop- ment is obtained from it, as well as the maximum of training in manual dexterity. The necessity for the measurement of sizes, for the selection of suitable materials, for calculations of quantities and cost, ensures that the girl must think in order to act effectively. The methods suggested in this book aim, therefore, at uniting educational value with social utility. Many schools have in times past spent much time on knitting " Specimens," e.g., a square of plain knitting to show chain edge — -a specimen of work to show narrowings at the back of a stocking — a knitted heel, etc. These examples have been worked by the girls over and over again, long after they have become quite proficient in the point being taught. Pounds of wool and knitting cotton have been wasted in this manner, to serve no useful end. Worse still, the lack of purpose in the work served to kill the child's interest instead of stimulating it. In the recently issued report by the Chief Woman Inspector on the teaching of Needlework, she condemns in no uncertain manner this wastage of effort and material on specimens. With regard to this point the report states : — " The vi PREFACE. working of ' Specimens ' should be discouraged. The effect of ' Specimen ' work on Needlework teaching has been disastrous." The scheme of Knitting and Crochet suggested in this book endeavours to meet the foregoing criticism, by providing that girls shall learn all varieties of stitches while making useful articles and garments. The selection of such articles for each class has been guided by the interests of the child at each successive stage. The little girl's constructive instinct has its first outlet in making something for her doll and in decorating her doll's house. Later, she is interested also in making things for her own use and the use of her relations and friends. The scheme aims, therefore, at embracing within its scope those things in her school and home environment that are of living interest to the child. This selection and making of things that are vitally interesting to her will stimulate immensely the girl's out-of-school observations. She will be quick to seize upon new patterns of knit- ting in shop windows, and will observe every knitted and crocheted hat, bonnet, coat, or wrap in the school playground, in order to plan one to suit her own needs. Lastly, the book aims at producing a spirit of artistic appreciation, by encourag- ing the selection of materials and colours which are suitable and in good taste ; such training cannot fail to exercise a refining and beneficial influence on girls, whatever may be their vocations in adult life. E. P. CLAYDON. C. A. CLAYDON. CONTENTS. PAGE Preface ............ v GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. A: — Knitting METHOD OF HOLDING WOOL ........ 13 MAKING A SLIP LOOP ......... 13 CASTING-ON ........... 15 PLAIN KNITTING .......... 18 PURLING ........... 20 CASTING-OFF . . . . . . . . . . .21 COUNTING ROWS AND ROUNDS ....... 24 JOINING WOOL .......... 27 PICKING UP STITCHES ......... 28 DECREASINGS .......... 30 INCREASINGS ........... 31 B. — Crochet METHOD OF HOLDING WORK . . . . . . . .34 MAKING A SLIP LOOP ......... 34 CHAIN STITCH .......... 34 DOUBLE CROCHET .......... 36 TREBLE STITCH .......... 36 DOUBLE TREBLE STITCH ......... 36 SINGLE STITCH .......... 37 JOINING WOOL .......... 38 TASSELS, POMPOMS, AND FRINGING ....... 39 WINDING WOOL .......... 42 SEWING TOGETHER PARTS OF GARMENTS ...... 42 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ......... 42 ABBREVIATIONS .......... 42 WOOLCRAFT ........... 43 BRITISH MANUFACTURERS AND WOOLS : QUALITIES, PRICES, AND USES . 44 GERMAN WOOLS .......... 49 Standard I and Upper Infants. 1. DOLL'S MUFF KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES 2 (A). DOLL'S SCARF KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES . 2 (b). FULL-SIZED SCARF ON BONE NEEDLES, TO FIT THE CHILD 3. DOLL'S SHAWL KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES 4. DOLL'S SCARF ON STEEL NEEDLES . . . . . 50 52 52 52 53 vu Vlll CONTENTS. 5. ROLLED PINCUSHION .... 6. QUILT FOR DOLL'S BED .... 7. PURSE WITH NECK-CORD FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR 8. PURSE WITH HANDLES FOR CHILD'S OWN USE 9. KNITTED IRON-HOLDER .... 10. PINCUSHION COVER .... 11. WASHING GLOVE ..... 12. DOLL'S MUFF WITH KNITTED NECK SUPPORT 13. DOLL'S WOOLLEN SHOE .... 14. BABY'S KNITTED SHOE .... 15. KNITTED TOY REINS .... 16. „ „ ,, (ALTERNATIVE SHAPE) Standard II. 1. 2. 3 3 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11 12. 13 14 14 15 15 16 16 17 'KNITTED BOOK MARKER WITH FRINGED ENDS COVER FOR NEEDLE-BOOK (A). ANTIMACASSAR FOR DOLL'S HOUSE (B). FULL-SIZED ANTIMACASSAR FOR HOUSEHOLD USE DOLL'S SOFA RUG . DOLL'S DUTCH BONNET . COSY FOR DOLL'S TEAPOT DOLL'S VEST DOLL'S KNITTED HAT DOLL'S JERSEY DOLL'S KILTED WOOLLEN SKIRT DOLL'S KNITTED COAT (jf-LENGTH) DOLL'S KNITTED PETTICOAT DOLL'S SLIPPER WITH LEATHER SOLE (A). KNITTED RUG FOR DOLL'S HOUSE (B). FULL-SIZED RUG FOR HOUSEHOLD USE (a). DOLL'S CROCHETED SHAWL (b). FULL-SIZED CROCHETED SHAWL . (A). DOLL'S CROCHETED HAT (b). FULL-SIZED CROCHETED HAT TO FIT CHILD OF TEN CROCHETED PURSE FOR CHILD'S OWN USE . Standard III. 1. SMALL BOY'S KNITTED BRACES . 2. COLOURED CASE FOR CHILD'S BALL . 3. BABY GIRL'S KNITTED STAYS . 4. DOLL'S SCARF KNITTED ON THREE NEEDLES 5. MARBLE BAG FOR CHILD'S BROTHER . 6. LUNCH BAG FOR CHILD'S OWN USE . 7. DOLL'S MUFF ..... 8. KNITTED CUFFS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR . CONTENTS. 9 (a). doll s petticoat, knitted in strips . 9 (b). petticoat, knitted in strips, for child's own wear 10. knitted tea-cosy ..... 11. doll's jersey on three needles . 12. doll's hat . ....... 13. knitted hat for child's own wear 14. tie knitted in spider pattern 15 (a), doll's crocheted 'bonnet 15 (b). FULL-SIZED BONNET FOR CHILD OF EIGHT OR NINE 16 (a). DOLL'S CROCHETED PETTICOAT 16 (B). FULL-SIZED CROCHETED PETTICOAT FOR CHILD OF TEN OR ELEVEN 17. CROCHETED CUFFS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR 18. CROCHETED HAIR-BAND FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR . Standard IV. 1. triangular head-wrap .... 2. baby's first vest ..... 3. child's vest ...... 4. striped silk tie, or sports tie in club colours 5. baby's belt ...... 6. knitted scarf ...... 7. sleeping sock ...... 8. lady's bedroom slipper .... 9. woollen bonnet for child's own wear 10. woollen hat knitted on three needles 11. small girl's crocheted stays 12. crocheted hair-band for girl's own wear . 13. crocheted shawl (simple pattern) 14. girl's crocheted hat (simple pattern) . 15. girl's crocheted bonnet (simple pattern) . Standard V. 1. CHILD'S KNITTED STOLE OR MUFFLER 2. CHILD'S KNITTED MUFF .... 3. BABY'S KNITTED PETTICOAT 4. BABY'S GAITER ..... 5. KNITTED HUG-ME-TIGHT OR BOLERO . 6 (A). RULES FOR KNITTING AND TURNING HEELS 6 (b). CHILD'S SOCK ..... 7. SHAWL OR WRAP OF SHETLAND WOOL 8. GIRL'S CROCHETED PETTICOAT (SIMPLE PATTERN 9. CROCHETED SCARF .... 10. VESTETTE, OR SHAPED NECK-WRAP, IN CROCHET 11. CROCHETED SILK NECK-WRAP . 12. CROCHETED TIE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR CONTENTS. Standard VI. 1 (a), stocking for child's own wear 1 (b). stockings of different sizes . 1 (c). RE- welting and re-footing of socks ■2. GENTLEMEN'S RIBBED SOCK 3. CHILD'S KNITTED JERSEY 4. BABY'S KNITTED GLOVE . 5. KNITTED LACE EDGING . 6. BABY'S CROCHETED BONNET 7. CROCHETED WOOLLEN HAT, WITH BRIM 8. CROCHETED PETTICOAT 9. CROCHETED CURTAIN HOLDER . 10. CROCHETED SHAWL OR STOCKINGS PAGE 157 159 160 162 164 167 170 171 172 174 176 178 Standard VII. 1(A). GLOVE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR 1 (B). MITTEN FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR . 2. BABY'S KNITTED COAT BABY'S BOOTEES .... BABY'S ORNAMENTAL SILK SOCK CROCHETED EGG-COSY . . . CROCHETED TEA-COSY ). CROCHETED PERAMBULATOR COVER 3. 4. 5. 6. ;7 . 7 (b). CROCHETED COT COVER 7 (c). CROCHETED SOFA RUG 8. CROCHETED HUG-ME-TIGHT 9. FIRST LACE EDGING IN CROCHET 10. SECOND LACE EDGING IN CROCHET 11. THIRD LACE EDGING IN CROCHET 180 183 183 186 189 192 194 195 197 197 197 202 202 203 KNITTING WITHOUT "SPECIMENS." THE MODERN BOOK OF SCHOOL KNITTING AND CROCHET. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. I. — It will be observed that a very wide range of articles has been suggested ifor each Standard or Class. It is unlikely that any one girl will make all the articles given, but the syllabus for the class should, as the recent report on Needle- work Teaching suggests, provide a choice of garments. Each girl may then select -those which she requires, provided that she has not made such garments or articles before. The report adds : — " Variety of work is good both for the teacher and the class. The tradition that a child cannot be expected to make more than one garment a year is passing away." Each teacher will, of course, be guided also by -the interests and needs of her own particular girls and district, and. will find little difficulty in adding to the following syllabus, or modifying it to suit her own requirements. II. — In many cases, instructions are given for the knitting or crocheting of the .•article, both small size for the Doll or Doll's House, and full size. In lower classes, iull-sized garments, or even garments to fit the children themselves, are often too large for them to manipulate and also take too long. It is advisable, therefore, ior the majority of children in lower classes to knit or crochet small articles or garments for their dolls. Children who show exceptional facility should be en- couraged to attempt larger articles. Even in upper standards the teacher will sometimes find it useful, when the time is short, to teach the method of working by means of a small article. Every girl should, however, always keep in her arecord book the detailed instructions for making the article full size. III. — -In every case, the knitting or crochet will be done, after careful measure- ment by the children, of the size required to fit the child, doll, doll's house, etc., -for which the article is being made. Children will soon be able to make a fair ■estimate of the number of stitches required for articles of given sizes. It is a good plan to keep at schooi a doll of suitable size, say 16 in. high, to which children ■shall fit all their doll's garments. They will thus have a standard of comparison as a guide for their future work. Moreover, in the case of a very large class, a ■teacher can more effectively teach a new stitch or method when all the children are working on articles to fit the same doll. All the doll's garments described in this lbook have been made to fit a doll 16 in. high from head to foot. The width across 11 12 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. the shoulders was 4 in., size round waist 8f in., length of arm 3£ in., skirt length 5£ in., and measurement round head, as for a knitted tam-o'-shanter, 8 m - After the method of making a garment, e.g., a bonnet, has been grasped, children should be allowed to bring their own dolls ; they can then make the same garment a second time, estimating entirely for themselves, from knowledge previously gained, the number of stitches requisite to fit the respective dolls brought. In the case of the second article made, it is well to encourage the children to introduce variations in pattern from the teacher's type, thus giving scope for initiative and originality, and avoiding keeping all the girls at the same level. IV. — -A certain amount of co-operation is advisable, e.g., it is often helpful for older girls to sew together and decorate garments made in lower classes. This affords good social training. V. — The teacher should discuss with the girls the selection of suitable colours and materials for their work, and should let them calculate the cost of every article made. This is an educational aspect of the work which should not be neglected. VI. — If wool, needles, or crochet-hook are employed, coarser than those given in the directions, the number of stitches or chain should be diminished propor- tionately. Such a proceeding is sometimes useful in order to lessen or simplify the work in the case of backward children. It will be found that the knitting of individual children varies so widely in slack- ness or tightness, that the same number of stitches may produce pieces of knitting of very different sizes. The same variation occurs also in crochet. Therefore, in the instructions for every garment, the required width in inches has been given as well as the number of stitches or chain to commence with. The following plan may be adopted in estimating the exact number of stitches required in the case of individual knitters : Work a small piece of knitting of not less than 1 in. in width. (Use the same size of needles and wool as those to be employed for the garment.) Count the number of stitches that have produced unstretched ' knitting 1 in. in width. Multiply this number by the number of inches required for the width of the garment, and this will give the number of stitches to be cast on. The dimensions will also be found helpful in cases where teachers have not at their disposal the exact size of needles or wool advised in the instructions. Adopt the plan described above for estimating the number of stitches necessary. VII. — In teaching all new points in knitting, the teacher should demonstrate to- the whole class by means of large wooden knitting needles and thick rug wool, such as those shown in Fig. 5. A very coarse crochet hook and rug wool are also suitable for demonstrating points in crochet work. Another obvious method is to sketch the necessary diagrams boldly on the blackboard. VIII. — For convenience, directions concerning the fundamental processes of Knitting are collected in pages 13-33 ; those dealing with Crochet will be found on pages 34-8 ; and pages 39-42 are occupied with instructions on the making of Tassels, Pompoms, and Fringing. A.— KNITTING. METHOD OF HOLDING WOOL. Pass the wool over the first finger of the right hand, under the second and third fingers, and over the fourth finger, giving an additional twist round the last finger. (See Figs. 1 and 2.) UHHUHUIM^^HBg Fig. 1. Method of Holding Wool in Knitting. (Outside view as seen by an onlooker.) MAKING A SLIP LOOP. Take a knitting-needle in the right hand. Catch the wool in the left hand about 6 in. from the end, bring it forward between the first finger and the thumb, and pass it once completely round the thumb from left to right, crossing the wool as shown in Fig. 3. Pass the wool coming from the ball over the fingers of the right hand as described under " Method of Holding Wool." Pass the point of the needle under the loop. With the forefinger of the right hand, pass the wool round the point of the right-hand needle (Fig. 3), and draw the thread through the loop, thus 1 making another loop. Withdraw the thumb, and pull gently on the left-hand 'thread to tighten the stitch. (See Fig. 4.) 13 14 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Fig. 2. Method of Holding Wool in Knitting. Inside Front. ( View as seen by the worker, with the right hand raised as for slipping the wool over the right-hand needle with the first finger, showing also the twisting of the wool round the little finger.) (Step 1.) KNITTING. IS Fig. 4. Making a Slip Loop. [Step 2.) CASTING-ON. (a) First Method — Knitting-on. Make a slip loop as described above on one needle. ,Pass the needle to the left hand. Take a second needle in the right hand, and place the wool in position for knitting over the right-hand fingers, as before. Insert the point of the right- hand needle in the stitch, pass the wool round the point of this needle with the- forefinger of the right hand (Fig. 5 : Step 1), and draw a second stitch through the first (Fig. 5 : Step 2). Place this stitch on the left-hand needle (Fig. 5 r Step 3). Repeat this process until the required number of stitches has been cast on.. (b) Second Method. One knitting-needle only and the left thumb are employed. Leave an end of wool a yard or more in length according to the number of stitches to be cast on. Make a slip loop as described above, and retain it on the needle. Make a second, slip loop and place it on the needle beside the first one. (See Fig. 6.) Continue the process until the required number of stitches have been cast on. It will be seen from Fig. 3 that this method of casting-on consists in making a series of slip loops. This is the better method to employ when strength is required, or when coarse needles are employed. 16 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Fig. 5. Casting-on. First Method, Knitting-on. (Steps 1, 2, and 3.) KNITTING. 17 Fig. 6. Second Method of Casting-on — a Series of Slip Loops. (c) Casting-on on Three Needles. (1) Knitting-on. — Suppose that 20 stitches are to be cast-on on each of three needles. Cast on 20 stitches on one needle, form the twenty-first stitch, and leave it on the right-hand needle ; drop the left-hand needle, pass the right-hand needle to the left hand, and pick up a fresh needle with the right hand. Cast on another 19 stitches on the second needle (making 20 in all), form the twenty-first stitch, and again keep it on the right-hand needle, to form the first stitch of the third needle. Cast on the remaining 19 stitches of the third needle. Take great care to draw the first stitch of each needle sufficiently tight to leave no gap between the needles. (Fig. 7.) Fig. 7. Casting-on on Three Needles. {Step 1.) 2— (815 B) 18 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Pass the left hand lightly along the three needles to see that no stitches have become twisted. Bring the third needle round to the commencing stitch of the first needle and begin to knit in that stitch, drawing the first stitch up very tightly so that no " bar of wool " is left between the needles. (Fig. 8.) Fig. 8. Casting-on on Three Needles. (Step 2.) (2) When the second method is employed. — Take the first needle, and cast on the required number of stitches by making a series of slip loops. ' Take up the second needle, and be careful, in making the first stitch on this needle, to pass the wool round the thumb as closely as possible to the last stitch on the first needle • this will prevent the formation of a gap between the needles. Deal similarly with the commencement of the third needle, and join the three needles together as described under " Knitting-on." PLAIN KNITTING. Place the hands in position as described under " Method of Holding Work " {Figs. 1 and 2). Insert the point of the right-hand needle in the stitch to be iknitted ; pass the wool round this needle with the forefinger of the ri^ht hand •(see Fig. 9), and draw the wool through to form another stitch. Retain & this new iStitch on the right-hand needle. Proceed in this manner to the end of the row In knitting on two needles the first stitch of each row must always be sliDDed This slipping may be done in two ways (in plain knitting) : " KNITTING. 19 (1) Without chain edge, — In this method the needle is simply inserted knit-wise, and the stitch is slipped off on to the right-hand needle. Fig. 9. Plain Knitting. Fig. 10. Chain Edge. 20 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. (2) With chain edge. — In this method the needle is inserted purl-wise, the wool is carried round the first stitch from the front to the back of the work, and the second stitch knitted in the ordinary manner. (See Fig. 10.) PURLING. In purling, keep the wool to the front of the work. Insert the needle from right to left through the front of the stitch to be purled. Pass the wool round the point of the right-hand needle from right to left (Step 1, Fig. 11). Draw the wool through the stitch in a backward direction (Step 2, Fig. 11(a) ), and allow the loop to be drawn off the left-hand needle. Fig. 11. Purl.ng. (S.ep 1. Fig. 11(a). Purling. (Step 2.) KNITTING., 21 CASTING-OFF. (a) First Method. Slip the first stitch, and knit the second ; then, with the left-hand needle, draw the first stitch over the second. Knit the third stitch.; pass the second stitch over this. Continue to remove the stitches in this manner (see Fig. 12). When only one stitch remains, break off the wool ; draw the loop of the remaining stitch through, and fasten off the end by knitting or darning it in. A chain edge is produced by this method of casting-off. Fig. 12. Casting-off. First Method. (b) Second Method. This is known as " Knitting-off." It produces an edge which matches the casting-on better than the edge produced by the First Method. Knit two together (Fig. 13), and transfer the resulting stitch from the right- hand needle to the left (Fig. 14). Again knit two together and transfer the stitch. Repeat this process until only one stitch remains on the needle. Deal with this remaining stitch as described under First Method. (c) Third Method — To produce a rounded method of closing up an opening. Break off the wool, leaving an end about 8 in. in length. Knit a stitch, and draw the end of the wool right through the stitch (see Fig. 15). Proceed in this manner until one stitch only remains. Deal with this remaining stitch as described under First Method. 22 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Fig Castiag-off. Second Method. {Step 2.) (i) Fourth Method — To produce a square closed end, at the toe of a stocking; top of a baby's glove, etc. Arrange the stitches on two needles, an equal number on each. Turn the work on to the wrong side. Knit two stitches together, one from each needle ; knit another two stitches together in the same manner (see Figs. 16 and 17). Pass the first resulting stitch over the second. Again knit two stitches together, one from each needle, and repeat the process of passing the previous stitch over. Continue in this way until only one stitch remains. Deal with this remaining stitch as described under First Method. KNITTING. 23 Fig. 15. Casting-off. Third Method : to produce a Rounded Method of- Closing up an Opening. Fig. 16. Casting-off. Fourth Method : to produce a Square-closed End. (Step 1.) 24 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Fig. 17. Casting-off. Fourth Method : to produce a Square-closed End. {Step 2.) (e) Grafting-off. This is another method of casting-off the toe of a stocking, etc., without leaving any evidence of a ridge. Though the most difficult method of casting-off, it is the neatest. Arrange the stitches on two needles, an equal number on each. Break off the wool, leaving an end about 14 in. long. Thread this into a wool needle — which has no point — and proceed as follows : — (1) Insert the wool- needle knit- wise into the first stitch on the front needle, and slip the stitch from the knitting-needle on to the wool-needle. Next insert the wool-needle purl- wise into the second stitch (Fig. 18), and let this stitch re- main on the knitting-needle. Draw the wool through, letting the second stitch still remain on the front knitting-needle. (2) Insert the needle purl-wise into the first stitch on the back needle, and slip off the stitch on to the wool-needle. Insert the needle knit-wise into the second stitch (Fig. 19), and let this stitch remain on the knitting-needle. Draw the wool through, still letting the second stitch remain on the back knitting-needle. Return to the front needle and repeat process (1), and then to the back and repeat process (2). Continue in this way until only one stitch remains. Deal with this last stitch as described under the First Method. COUNTING OF ROWS AND ROUNDS. It is frequently necessary, in order correctly to follow instructions, to be able to count readily the number of " Rows " or " Rounds " which have been worked. Figs. 20 and 21 show the methods of doing this. KNITTING. 25 Fig. 18. Grafting-off. (Step 1. f.v Fig. 19. Grafting off. (Step 2.) 26 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. (a) Counting of Rows. Twelve rows of plain knitting are shown in Fig. 20, two rows of knitting going to form one ridge. Each white mark, therefore, indicates two rows. Fig. 20. Counting of Rows. (Twelve rows of Plain Knitting. Each white mark represents two rows.) (b) Counting of Rounds. Twelve rounds of plain knitting are shown in Fig. 21. Each white mark, (therefore, indicates one round. ! Fig. 21. Counting of Rounds. (Twelve rounds of Plain Knitting. Each white mark represents one round.) KNITTING. 27 JOINING WOOL. Under no circumstances should knots be employed to join wool in knitting. If a knot occurs in the knitting wool which is being used, it should not be allowed to remain there, but the wool should be broken, and the join carried out in the correct manner. Proceed as follows : — Use up the wool till an end about 5 in. long remains. Take the end of the new piece to be joined on, and place it alongside the old end, so that the two ends point in opposite directions, the old end to the right, and the new end to the left (see Fig. 22). Hold the end of the new thread steady by placing it between the Method of Joining Wool in Knitting. first and second fingers of the left hand. Holding the short end of the old wool in the right hand, together with the new wool coming from the ball, knit four or five stitches with the double wool. Then, dropping the end of the old wool, continue to knit with the new wool alone. Both the new and the old ends will thus be left on the side of the work away from the knitter. When knitting the next row or round, be careful not to separate the threads in the double stitches, but to knit the two together. The presence of the double stitches naturally produces a certain thick- ness in the knitting, which in fine work is better avoided. This can be done by splitting the wool at each end for a few inches, and removing half the strands of each before placing them together. The two ends together then make the thickness of one thread. This plan, however, should not be attempted with beginners. 28 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. PICKING UP STITCHES. (a) In Plain Knitting, when the stitch has been dropped two or three loops only. Pick up the dropped stitch on to the point of the left-hand needle in front of the bars. With the right-hand needle take' up the lowest strand and place it on the left-hand needle next to the stitch (Fig. 23, Step 1). Take the stitch on the point of the ri°:ht-hand needle, and draw it over the bar and the point of the left- hand needle (Fig. 23, Step 2). Withdraw the point of the right-hand needle. Now take up the next strand above, and place as before -on the left-hand needle. Repeat the process described above. Continue in this manner until the top loop of the ladder has been picked up. A. Fig. 23. Plain Knitting : picking up a Dropped Stitch. (A) Step 1. (B) Step 2. (b) In Purling, when the stitch has been dropped for two or three loops ONLY. Pick up the dropped stitch on to the point of the left-hand needle behind the loops. With the right-hand needle take up the lowest loop and place it on the left-hand needle in front of the stitch (Fig. 24, Step 1). Insert the point of th KNITTING. 29 right-hand needle into the stitch, and draw it forward over the loop and the point of the left-hand needle (Fig. 24, Step 2) . Withdraw the point of the right-hand needle. Proceed in exactly the same manner with each ascending loop, until the top rung of the ladder has been picked up. Purling : picking up a Dropped Stitch. (A) Step 1. (B) Step 2. (c) Picking up the Stitch with a Crochet-hook. This method is preferable when the stitch has been dropped down for a. considerable number of loops. (1) Plain Knitting. — Insert the point of the crochet-hook in the dropped stitch,, and pass it behind the lowest loop (Fig. 25, Step 1). With the hook, draw the loop- forwards and downwards through the stitch (Fig. 25, Step 2). Retaining the- stitch on the hook, pass the point behind the next loop above, and draw this through the stitch as before. Repeat this process until the top loop of the ladder has been, picked up. (2) Purling. — To pick up a purled stitch with a crochet-hook, turn to'the back; of the work, and proceed exactly as in the case of a knitted stitch. 30 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. A. B. Fig. 25. Picking up a Dropped Stitch with a Crochet-hook. (A) Step 1. (B) Step 2. DECREASINGS. I. The number of stitches on the needle may be decreased in either of the following ways : — (a) First Method. Knitting two stitches together. The method of doing this is clearly shown in the illustration of Casting off, Second Method, Figs. 13 and 14. This method of decreasing produces a slight slope to the right. (6) Second Method. Slip a stitch, knit the next stitch, and with the point of the left needle draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one and the point of the right needle. The process is clearly shown in the illustration of Casting off, First Method (Fig. 12). This method of decreasing produces a slight slope to the left. It is sometimes called the " Pulling-over " method. The above two ways of decreasing are frequently used in the same piece of work, where it is necessary to make the decreasings slope in pairs, as, for example, on either side of the seam-stitch in the leg of a stocking, or on the sides of the toe of a sock or stocking. KNITTING. 31 INCREASINGS. The number of stitches on a needle may be increased in any of the following ways : — First Method. Knit twice into the same stitch, i.e., into the front, and then, before removing it, into the back of the same stitch. This is a very satisfactory method of increasing for most purposes, as it produces no hole in the work, and does not draw the knit- ting out of shape in any way. The increasing made by this method is, indeed, almost indistinguishable. A. B. Fig. 26. Second and Third Methods of Increasing. Second Method. When doing plain knitting, an additional stitch may be made by bringing the wool to the front under the point of the right needle, taking it over to the back again, and then knitting the next stitch as usual. Fig. 26, A, shows the new stitch thus made, and the wool being placed round the right-hand needle in readiness to knit the next stitch. 32 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. In the case of purling, the wool is already at the front. Pass it over the needle to the back, and under it to the front again ; then purl the next stitch. This method of increasing causes a hole, and is frequently used to produce fancy patterns. A seiies of such holes may also be used for inserting ribbon or draw-strings. To obtain a still larger hole, pass the wool twice or even three times round the needle. Such a hole is sometimes employed as a button-hole, e.g., in a child's jersey, etc. Third Method — Raising a stitch. Make the stitch in this case by taking a loop from the row below (see Fig. 26, B), putting it on to the left needle, and knitting into it with the right needle. This method produces no hole. Fig. 27. Fourth Method of Increasing. Fourth Method. Take up the small bar of thread between the two loops of 1he previous row, and knit into it (see Fig. 27). This makes a very small hole which is used in some fancy patterns, e.g., in a Bedroom Slipper. Fifth Method — To make a stitch at the commencement of a row. Place the point of the right-hand needle under the wool before inserting it into the first stitch (see Fig. 28). This forms an additional stitch or loop at the KNITTING. 33 beginning of the row. When coming back along the row, be careful to knit into this loop separately. Fig. 28. Fifth Method of Increasing. (Making a stitch at the beginning of a needle.) 3-(8l5B) B. — CROCHET. METHOD OF HOLDING WORK. Hold the wool in the left hand in the following way : Pass it over the first two fingers, under the third, and wind it once round the little finger, in order to keep the wool in position and control the tension. Hold the work with the thumb and first finger of the left hand, and stretch out the second finger a short distance to hold the wool clear of the work (see Figs. 29 and 30). Fig. 29. Method of Holding Wool in Crochet. (Outside view as seen by an onlooker.) MAKING A SLIP LOOP. Instructions for doing this are given above under Knitting. CHAIN STITCH. Make a slip loop, and place it on the hook. Holding the wool at a tension. across the fingers of the left hand, place the hook under the wool, as shown in Fig. 31, and draw the portion taken up through the loop. Again place the hook under the wool and draw it through. Repeat this until a chain of the requisite- 34 CROCHET. 35 Fig. 30. Method of Holding Wool in Crochet. ( Inside front view as seen by the worker — but with the left hand raised in order to show the method of twisting the wool round the little finger.) Fig. 31. Chain' Stitch. 36 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. length has been obtained. A chain is always employed in commencing a crocheted article, and chain stitches are also used for turning the rows in double, treble, and double-treble crochet. DOUBLE CROCHET. Make a short length of chain as a foundation. Place the hook in the second chain, and draw a loop of wool through it. Now place the hook again under the wool, and draw the wool through the two loops which are upon the hook. This . completes the first stitch. Place the hook in the next stitch, as seen in Fig. 32, and proceed as before. Repeat this process to the end of the row. Fig. 32. Double Crochet. TREBLE STITCH. Again make a short length of chain as a foundation. Pass the hook under the wool, and then place it in the third chain from the end. Draw the wool through, thus making the number of stitches on the hook up to three. Put the hook under the wool {see Fig. 33), and draw a loop through the first two stitches ; then, again placing the hook under the wool, draw a loop through the last two. This completes one treble stitch. DOUBLE TREBLE STITCH. This is similar to treble stitch, but the hook is passed twice under the woo\ before it is placed in the fourth chain. Draw the wool through, thus making thef CROCHET. ■ 37 number of stitches on the hook up to four. Put the hook under the wool (Fig. 34), draw a loop through the first two stitches, then draw a loop through the next two, and, lastly, draw a loop through the remaining two. This completes one double treble stitch. Fig. 33. Crochet — Treble Stitch. Fig. 34. Crochet — Double-treble Stitch. SINGLE STITCH, This is chiefly used as a joining stitch, or as a means of getting from one place to another without breaking the thread. It is worked by passing the hook through a stitch, and then drawing a loop of wool through both the stitch and the loop which was upon the needle already. (See Fig. 35.) 38 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Crochet JOINING WOOL IN CROCHET. When it becomes necessary to join on new wool, it is quite inadmissible to knot the two ends together. Proceed to join on the new wool as follows : Leave enough wool from the old ball to make two or three more stitches ; take up the wool com- ing from the fresh ball, and work the next stitch with it, whether it be single, idouble, treble, or double treble. Work the next stitch with the thread from the old ball, the following with the new wool, one more stitch with the old (see Fig. 36), and then continue the work, using the new wool only. Fig. 36. Method of Joining Wool in Crochet. TASSELS, POMPOMS, AND FRINGING. IX. — These are often used as decorations for knitted and crocheted articles. Short descriptions of the methods of making them are given below. (a) A Tassel may be quickly made as follows : Take a strip of thick card and let its width be equal to the length required for the tassel. Place along the top of the card a double or treble piece of wool 3 or 4 in. long. Now wind the wool round and round the card until about twenty or twenty-five loops have been formed which lie evenly side by side. Tie these tightly up together at the top with the piece of wool that was laid along the edge of the card. Now cut through all the loops of wool at the bottom edge of the card ; the cut edges will form the ends of the tassel. Wind a piece of wool two or three times round the tassel about a quarter of an inch from the top, and tie securely, cutting o ff the short ends . Level the ends of the tassels with scissors if they are of different lengths. A tassel of larger size, suitable for a thick scarf, may be made from a crocheted chain looped up at equal intervals until sufficient fullness has been obtained. (b) A Pompom may be made in a similar way to a tassel, but about twice as many loops of wool will be required, and the lengths employed will be shorter. The pompom will require to be tied once only at the top, and not a second time as in the case of the tassel. Trim the ends with scissors to produce a nicely-rounded effect. A pompom or ball may also be made as follows : Obtain two equal, circular pieces of card of the required size, each one having a hole in the centre, and place one over the other. The diameter of the card shown in Fig. 37 was 4 in., Fig. 37. Circular Method of Winding Wool for a Pompom. 39 40 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. and the diameter o;E the opening in the centre was 1 £ in. This produced a pompom with a diameter of 2\ in. The dimensions may be varied to produce a pompom of any size desired. Wind the wool round the two cards from the centre outwards until they are covered and the centre is almost full. Insert the scissors between the cards at the outer circumference, and cut the wool all round. Wind a separate piece of wool twice round tightly between the cardboard discs, tie securely, and slip the pompom off. Steam the ball in order to make the cut ends of the wool fluffy. (c) A Fringe may be made in the following manner : Cut a number of strips of wool twice the length required for the depth of the fringe. This may be done by winding wool evenly round a strip of stiff card or wood, and cutting along one edge of the loops thus formed. A gauge, such as is used for cutting rug wool, is useful for this purpose. (See " Knitted Rug," St. II.) Double one of these strips of wool, and hold it in the left hand with the ends downwards. Now push a crochet hook through one of the loops of the edge to be fringed, take the doubled ! loop of wool from the left hand on to the crochet-hook (see Fig. 38), and draw it pjust through the edge, leaving the two ends of the strip of wool projecting on the & other side. Now take these two ends of wool upon the hook (see Fig. 39), pass them through the loop that was hooked through, and pull them up tightly with the left hand (Fig. 40). Proceed thus along the entire length of the edge to be Fig. 38. Fringing. (Step 1.) TASSELS, POMPOMS, AND FRINGING. 41 Fig. 40. Fringing. (Step 3.) 42 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. fringed, drawing a strip of wool through every loop so that no spaces occur. A double or treble fringe is often desirable in the case of thin wool, silk, or cotton. In such a case put two or three slips of wool together, and then double them to form a loop. Thus, each time, a double or treble loop will be pulled through, making the fringe of greater thickness. WINDING OF WOOL. X. — When winding wool from a skein, avoid stretching it by winding it tightly into a hard ball, as this makes it thin and poor. Wind it loosely over three or four fingers of the left hand, held outside the ball. Withdraw these fingers carefully from time to time, while winding, to change the position of the ball. This plan ■will keep the wool soft and elastic. SEWING TOGETHER OF PARTS OF GARMENTS. XI. — Many of the garments referred to in the book are not knitted in one piece, and the separate portions, therefore, require sewing together. In all cases this sewing should be done with the same material as that of which the garment has been knitted, to render the join as imperceptible as possible. The joins should be made on the wrong side of the garment. Avoid drawing the work so tightly as to cause dragging at the seams. In the upper classes, the girls may be taught to ■crochet the portions of the garments together, using single stitch for this purpose. All ends of wool left from the knitting or joining together of garments, should toe neatly finished off by darning in on the wrong side of the work. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. XII. — The sharp points of steel knitting-needles and steel crochet-hooks are a source oE danger if carried uncovered. A very simple method of shielding them is to insert each in a cork when the work is put away. Knitting-pin shields made of bone may be purchased at about 3Jd. per pair, ithough such expensive appliances are hardly necessary for school purposes. ABBREVIATIONS. In some cases the following abbreviations are employed in the instructions : — (a) Knitting. K., knit; p., purl; st., stitch(es) ; si., slip; m., make ; tog., together. (b) Crochet. Ch., chain ; d.c, double crochet ; tr., treble ; d. tr., double treble. WOOLCRAFT. l--7-So many varieties of knitting wools are now placed upon the market by British manufacturers that it is no easy matter to select the most suitable with regard to price, quality, and comparative thickness. 2. — The names and addresses of four important British manufacturing firms have been given below, together with information with regard to the most useful varieties of wools for school purposes produced by each. The lists of wools de- scribed are by no means complete catalogues of the varieties manufactured by these makers ; some of the most expensive and highly-finished wools have been omitted for obvious reasons. Further information can always be obtained by applying to the firms direct, or to their local agents. The prices quoted below will be found to vary locally (except in the case of " Greenock Wools," manufac- tured by Fleming, Reid & Co.), and to fluctuate also with the state of the wool market. Many retail firms are willing to quote lower prices to schools ordering in considerable quantities. 3. — With regard to the comparative thickness of wools, the following distinctions are generally adopted by all firms : — (a) 2-ply is a term describing wools in which two threads only are twisted together, as in Shetland wool, eider wool, etc. The 2-ply wools are thus the thin nest wools obtainable. They usually have a soft, fine finish, and are suitable for making babies' garments and dainty shawls and wraps. ' (b) 3-ply is descriptive of wools in which three threads 'are twisted together, producing a greater thickness than in the case of 2-ply wools, i (c) 4-ply wools are composed of four threads twisted together, producing wools of the thickness most generally employed for school purposes. It must be remem- bered, however, that the threads employed to produce a 4-ply wool vary in thick- ness with different makes ; the " twistedness " of the wool and the softness of the threads employed vary also, so that all 4-ply wools are not of exactly the same thickness, though they approximate to the same size. Similar variations occur also in the thicknesses of the 2-ply, 3-ply, 5-ply, 6-ply, and 8-ply wools, according to make and quality. - (d) 5-ply describes wools in which five threads are employed, producing a thicker wool than 4-ply. 5-ply wools are suitable for heavier garments, such as thick winter socks or stockings, petticoats, etc. (e) 6-ply wools are composed of six threads, and are consequently heavier in make than 5-ply. Wools known as " Wheeling " are often equal in thickness to 6-ply, although a smaller number of thicker threads may be employed. (/) 8-ply wools, composed of eight threads, are the thickest wools usually employed, except Rug Wool. Wools known as " Double Knitting " are often equal in thickness to 8-ply, though frequently four threads only, but of greater thickness, are employed. The " Double Knitting " wools, or " Double Fingerings," are used largely for knitted or crocheted coats and hats. N.B. — In purchasing wool, it should be remembered that a thick wool at a low price may be no more economical than a more expensive thinner wool, for the same weight of a thinner wool gives greater length. 4. — ■Qualities of Wools. The price of a wool is by no means an index of its wearing quality. Sometimes the cheaper wools, which are more hairy and less soft in finish, wear as long as, or longer than, more expensive wools of finer, softer, 43 44 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. and smoother varieties. An important point in selecting the quality is its suit- ability to the purpose in hand. For babies' garments, underwear, and soft shawls or wraps, a soft finish is necessary. For hats, coats, thick hose, hard-wearing gloves, etc., the more hairy qualities are suitable. 5. — Colours. Wools in plain colours are usually from 4d. to 6d. a lb. cheaper than wools in fancy colours. The plain colours generally include white, black, natural grey, and pink, while fancy colours include other shades in one colour (such as blue, red, green, brown, etc.), speckled wools, and mixtures. BRITISH MANUFACTURERS AND WOOLS. Maker. Name of Wool. Quality. Use. I'Messrs. Fleming, Reid& Co., The : Worsted Mills, Greenock, Scot- land The wools manu- factured by this firm are known as " Greenock Knit- ting Wools," and are sold at uni- form prices in the Scotch wool shops throughout the United Kingdom. Do. \ do. do. do. Do. do. Do. do. do. do. do. do. Scotch Fin- gering (4-ply). G r e enock Fingering (3, 4, and 5-ply). Greenock Super Fin- gering (2, 3, 4, and 5-ply). Eider Wool (2 and 3- piy)- Plain ours, per lb. Fancy ours, per lb. Col- 2/8 Col- 3/- Plain Col- ours, 3/8 per lb. Fancy Col- ours, 4/— per lb. ours. 4/8 per lb Fancy Col- ours, V- per lb 4/8 per lb. This is a strong, sound knitting yarn, very suitable for school purposes, or in cases where economy is desired, as, although not soft in finish it is very durable in wear. It is suitable for socks, stockings, petticoats, jerseys, school gloves, etc. This is a softer wool than the Scotch Fingering, but is strong and durable. It is also suitable for socks (in the mot- tled variety) , stock- ings, and underwear. This wool has a soft, smooth finish, and is suitable for babies' garments, shawls, etc. The 4 and 5-ply of this make are suitable for hose of a better quality. This is a loosely twisted wool, and can be used in place of Shetland wool for fine shawls or wraps, where a lacy effect is desired. WOOLCRAFT. 45 Maker. Name of Wool. Quality. Price. Use. Messrs. Fleming, The wools manu- Scott ish 4/- per lb. This is an example of Reid& Co., The factured by this Fleece. a very hairy loosely- Worsted Mills, firm are known as twisted wool ; it is Greenock, Scot- " Greenock Knit- useful for soft, loose- land ting Wools," and are sold at uni- form prices in the Scotch wool shops throughout the United Kingdom. ly knitted shawls, where warmth and lightness combined are required. Do. do. do. do. Double Plain Col- This is a thick, hard- Knitting ours, 3/8 wearing wool, suit- (equal to per lb. able for knitted 8-ply). Fancy Col- ours, 4/- per lb. coats, hats, peram- bulator-covers, cot- covers, slippers, etc. Messrs. John The wools manu- Rose Wheel- Plain Col- This is a thick, hard- Paton, Son & factured by this ing. ours, 2/9 wearing wool. It Co., Ltd., Alloa, firm are usually per lb. lacks softness of fin- Scotland. known as the Fancy Col- ish, but is suitable " Alloa Knitting ours and for heavy wear. It Wools." Mixtures, 3/3 per lb. may be used for thick socks, stock- ings, jerseys, and school hats and scarfs. Do. do. do. do. Common- Plain Col- These are economical wealth ours, 2/1 1 4-ply wools, of a Knitting per lb. thinner make than and Ma- Fancy Col- the " Rose Wheel- iine Fin- ours and ing " described gering, Mixtures, above, and are spe- 4-ply. 3/5 per lb. cially recommended for hard wear. They are suitable for strong socks, stock- ings, school gloves, etc. Do. do. do. do. Federation Plain Col- This wool is suitable Knitting. ours, 3/3 per lb. Fancy Col- ours and Mixtures, 3/9 per lb. for purposes similar to the two last- mentioned yarns, but is more closely twis- ted, and has a less hairy finish. 46 KNITTING -WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Maker. Quality. Use. Messrs. John Paton, Son & Co., Ltd., Alloa, Scotland Do. do. The wools manu- factured by this firm are usually known as the " Alloa Knitting Wcols." Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. Messrs. J. & J. Baldwin & Partners, Ltd., Halifax, York- shire, England. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. This Firm is noted for its " Beehive Knitting Wools " and its " White Heather Wools." Rose Fin- gering (4-ply). Super Fin- gering Worsted (2, 3, 4, and 5-ply). Soft Knit- ting Wool. Rose Petti- coat or Sports Wool. Rug Wool (2-ply Cable Twisted). Beehive Scotch Fingering (2, 3, 4, and 5-ply). Plain Col- ours, 3/11 per lb. Fancy Col- ours and Mixtures, 4/5 per lb, Plain Col- ours, 4/9 per lb. Fancy Col- ours, 5/3 per lb. 8d. per 2-oz. packet. Plain Col- ours, 3/9 per lb. Fancy Col- ours, 4/5 per lb. 2/8 per lb. Plain Col- ours, 5/- per lb. Fancy Col- ours and Mixtures, 5/3 per lb. This is a softer quality than the- " Federa- tion Knitting," and is suitable for vests, petticoats, scarfs, shawls, etc. This wool is more expensive than those mentioned above, but has a smoother, softer finish, and is therefore suitable for fine underwear, ba- bies' garments, and articles where a dain- ty finish is required. This is a fine, closely- twisted wool, with a smooth finish, simi- lar to Andalusian wools. It is suitable for the same pur- poses as the " Super Fingering Worsted." This is a thick, soft wool, suitable, as its name implies, for knitted coats. Being warm and light, it is also suitable for mak- ing rugs for cots, perambulators, etc. This is a glossy, hard- wearing rug wool of excellent quality. This is a soft, highly finished fingering of excellent quality. It is suitable for socks, stockings, gloves, and soft underwear, as it does not irritate the skin. WOOLCRAFT. 47' Maker. Name of Wool. Quality. Use. Messrs. J. & J. Baldwin & Partners, Ltd., Halifax, York- shire, England. Do. do. Do. do. This Firm is noted for its " Beehive Knitting Wools " and its " White Heather Wools." do. do. do. do. Do. Do. Do. do. do. do. Do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. Beehive Petticoat Wool. Beehive Double Knitting. Beehive Vest Wool (2, 3, and 4-ply). Beehive Soft Knit- ting (4-ply) Beehive Eider, Ivorine and Ice Wool (2-ply). Beehive Shetland (2-ply). Beehive Andalusian (4-ply). White Hea- ther Scotch Fingering (2, 3, 4, and 5-ply). White Hea- ther Vest Wool (2, 3, and 4-ply). 3/11 per lb. 4/6 per lb. Plain Col- ours, 8|d. per 2-oz. packet. Fancy Col- lours, 9£d. per 2-oz. packet. 5/9 per lb. These are stout wools, specially adapted for warm garments, and. articles for sports' purposes. This is soft to the- touch, and washes, splendidly. This wool is well/ known for its high quality and soft fin- ish. It is a closely- twisted 4-ply wool,, suitable for purposes where a smooth, fine- finish is required. These are fine wools,, suitable for dainty shawls and wraps. Both 4/6 These are soft, fine- per lb. Plain Col- ours, 4/3 per lb. Fancy Col- ours and Mixtures, 4/6 per lb. 3/11 per lb. wools suitable for babies' garments,. and dainty articles generally. This is a hard-wearing, wool, suitable for purposes similar to- the " Beehive Scotch Fingering." It is,, however, less soft in finish. This is a useful vest wool, but less highly finished than, the- Beehive vest wool. 48 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Maker. Name of Wool. Quality. Price. Use. . Messrs. J. & J. Baldwin & Partners, Ltd. , Halifax, York- shire, England. wMessrs. Baldwin >'■' & Walker, Ltd., West Croft Mills, King Cross, Halifax, England. Do. do. Do. Do. do. Do. do. This Firm is noted for its " Beehive Knitting Wools" and its " White Heather Wools." This Firm is spe- cially noted for its " Ladyship Wools." do. do. do. do. do. do. do do. Beehive Rug Wool (2-ply Cable Twisted). Turkey Rug Wool (6-ply Plain Twist). L adyship Scotch Fingering (2, 3, 4, and 5-ply). La d y s h i p Fingering (3 and 4- piy)- Ladys hip Shetland Wool. L adyship Andalusian Wool. Ladyship Vest Wool (2, 3, and 4-ply). 2/4 per lb. 2/2 per lb. Plain Col- ours, 4/6 per lb. Fancy Col- ours, 4/1 1 per lb. 4/11 per lb. 5/2 per lb. 5/- per lb. 5/6 per lb. The Beehive Rug Wool (i.e., the Cable- twisted variety) is thicker and more glossy than the Tur- key Rug Wool. Both varieties are sold in 4-oz. packets. This is a high-class Scotch Fingering, which combines hard-wearing quali- ties with softness of finish. The finer qualities are suitable for shawls, and warm light articles. This is a stouter and more elastic wool than the Scotch Fin- gering, and is suit- able for socks, stock- ings, petticoats, etc., where hard wear is required. This is a closely twis- ted make of Shetland wool, with a fine, smooth finish. It is useful for fine shawls and babies' gar- ments. This is a finely finished Andalusian wool, suitable for dainty articles. This is a soft vest wool with an exception- ally fine finish. WOOLCRAFT. 49 Maker. Name of Wool. Quality. Price. Use. Messrs. Baldwin This Firm is spe- Primrose 4/3 per lb. This is a stout, hard- & Walker, Ltd., cially noted for Petticoat wearing wool, with West Croft its " Ladyship Wool a hairy finish. It is Mills, King Wools." (4-ply). suitable for coats. Cross, Halifax, woollen hats, bon- England. nets, jerseys, etc. Do. do. do. do. Distaff Plain Col- This is a strong, cordy Knitting ours, 3/11 yarn for hard usage. Wool per lb. It is suitable for (4-ply). Fancy Col- ours and Mixtures, 4/6 per lb. hard-wearing hose, school gloves, and scarfs, etc. GERMAN WOOLS. Many imported wools in common use are manufactured in Germany, notable among these being the " Berlin " wools. Single Berlin Wool is a fleecy fourfold wool, suitable where warmth and softness are desired. Double Berlin Wool is a thicker eightfold wool, of a similar texture and finish to the Single Berlin. An average price for both the above wools is 4s. 6d. per lb. for plain colours, and a little more for fancy colours. Most of the British wools previously described arfe also duplicated in German makes, but as these are no cheaper in general than the corresponding English wools, it has not been thought necessary to describe them in detail. 4— (815B) STANDARD I and UPPER INFANTS. i. DOLL'S MUFF KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES. To Teach (1) Casting-on, (2) Plain Knitting on Bone Needles, and (3. Casting-off. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 6. Rather less than i oz. of 4-ply wool. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 5£ oz. . Cost of same at 3s. 1 Id. per lb. = Is. 4£d. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton at 2s. per lb. be employed, the quantity required will be 1\ oz., and the total cost ll|d. Fig. 41. Doll's Muff Knitted on Bone Needles. 50 STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 51 Instructions. — Cast on ten stitches, or as many as will produce knitting haying a, width of 2 in. without stretching. (Teach the first method of casting-on described in the General Instructions at the commencement of the book.) Work a strip of plain knitting 3£ in. long. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off loosely. (Teach the first method of casting-off , described in the ' General Instructions.) Making up. — Double the strip, so that the cast-off edge lies over the cast-on edge. Oversew these edges neatly together, using a darning needle, and the same kind of wool as that of which the muff was knitted. Suspend the muff by narrow ribbon of the required length. This may be tied in a bow, as shown in Fig. 41, to obviate the difficulty of joining the ends of the ribbon neatly. N.B.— The above muff, and all the doll's garments described in the book, have been made to fit a doll 16 in. high. (See General Instructions.) Fig. 42. Doll's Scarf Knitted on Bone Needles. 52 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 2(A). DOLL'S SCARF KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES. Practice in Casting-on, Plain Knitting on Bone Needles, and Casting-off. Materials.— Two Bone Needles— size 8. About A oz. of 4-ply wool or other wool of a suitable thickness. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 9 J oz. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 2s. 4£d. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton at 2s. a lb. be employed, the quantity required will be 12 oz., and the total cost Is. 6d. Instructions.— Cast on eight stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 1£ in. wide without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 12 in. long. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off loosely. Making up. — Gather up the ends of the scarf, and attach a tassel to each. (For method of making tassels, see General Instructions.) 2(b). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED SCARF ON BONE NEEDLES, TO FIT THE CHILD. 3 oz. of 4-ply wool required. Cost at 3s. lid. per lb. = 9d. Cast on 42 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 7 in. wide without stretching. Knit a length of 1J yds. in the same manner as. described under Doll's Scarf. Make the tassels fuller, and from longer strips of wool, so that they will be in proportion to the size of the scarf. 3. DOLL'S SHAWL KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES. • Further practice in Casting-on, Plain Knitting, and Casting-off. Larger f number of stitches employed. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 7. J oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of a suitable thickness. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same Fig. 43. Doll's Shawl Knitted on Bone Needles. STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 53 at 3s. 1 Id. per lb. = 3s. Id. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton be employed, the quantity required will be 16 oz., and the cost 2s. Instructions. — Cast on 24 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 5 in. without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 7 J in. long. Knit every stitch in the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off loosely. Make a single fringe {see Fig. 43) all round the edge of the shawl, as described under General Instructions. N.B. — Instructions for knitting a full-sized shawl in a more difficult pattern are given under Standard V Syllabus. 4. DOLL'S SCARF ON STEEL NEEDLES. Use of Steel Needles introduced, and Chain Edge taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. J oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of a suitable thickness. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 3s. Id. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other quali- ties, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton be employed the quantity required will be 1 lb., and the cost about 2s. Fig. 44. Doll's Scarf on Steel Needles 54 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — Cast on 10 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 1 or 1J in. Work a strip of plain knitting 12 or 13 in. long. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch so as to produce chain edge (see Fig. 44 and General Instructions), and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off. Make a fringe at each end of the scarf, as described under General Instructions at the beginning of the book. 5. ROLLED PINCUSHION. Second Exercise in Plain Knitting on Steel Needles, with Chain Edge. Materials. — Two Steel or Bone Needles — size 10. J oz. 4-ply wool. Quantity required for class of 50 = \2\ oz. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s. 6Jd. (For cheaper wools, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton be employed, the quantity required will be 19 oz., and the cost of the same at 2s. per lb. = 2s. 4£d. Fig. 45. Rolled Pincushion. STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 55 Instructions. — Cast on 16 stitches, or as many as will produce a width of 2| in. without stretching. (Employ second method of casting-on given in General Instructions.) Work 8 or 9 in. of plain knitting with chain edge. Cast off. Making up. — Make a crocheted chain, from 16 to 20 in. in length, for suspending the pincushion, and sew the two ends of the chain together to form a circle. Now roll the strip of knitting round the part of the chain where the join occurs, so as to produce the cylindrical shape shown in Fig. 45. Sew the loose end of the strip neatly down on to the knitting beneath it. 6. QUILT FOR DOLL'S BED. Third Exercise in Plain Knitting on Steel Needles, with Chain Edge. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13. 1£ Balls of *' O-So-Silkie," Medium Size (2d. per ball), 1J Balls of " Coton Perle D.M.C.," No. 5 (2d. per ball), or \ oz. of Knitting Cotton, No. 6. Quantity of Knitting Cotton for class of 50 = 1 lb. 9 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 3s. 1 id. Fig. 46. Quilt for Doll's Bed. Instructions. — The Quilt is made from three strips, each of which is knitted as follows : Cast on 14 stitches, or as many as will give a width of about If in. without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 7 in. in length. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch in the manner described to produce chain edge and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off. Making up. — Sew the three strips neatly together, as in Fig. 46, thus affording practice in Oversewing. Put a double fringe all round the quilt, as described under General Instructions. 56 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 7. PURSE WITH NECK-CORD FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. Fourth Exercise in Plain Knitting on Steel Needles. Plaiting introduced for the Cord. Materials.— Two Steel Needles— size 14. A oz. No. 6 Knitting Cotton of any colour. Wool may be employed if preferred. Quantity of Knitting Cotton required for class of 50 = 1 lb. Cost of same = 2s. Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2\ in. without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 8 in. long. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off loosely. Fig. 47. Purse with Neck-cord for Child's own Wear. Making up. — Fold up the bottom edge of the strip to form a bag, leaving a flap 2 \ in. deep uncovered at the top. Oversew neatly up the side-seams, and turn the bag inside out. Turn in the top corners of the flap to meet each other, thus producing the pointed shape shown in Fig. 47. Turn down the flap to ascertain the position for the button, and sew this into its place. Make a small loop of plaited knitting cotton, and sew it on to the under-edge of the point of the flap for fastening purposes. An alternative and easier method for fastening the purse is by means of a press-stud (20 a Id.). Make a plait of knitting cotton about 34 in. long, and attach the ends of this strongly to the under-edge of the flap, for suspending the purse round the neck. STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 57 Both the loop for fastening the purse, and the cord for suspension round the neck, may be made from a crocheted chain if preferred. N.B. — This and the following exercise afford practice in the same type of knitting. Children may be allowed, therefore, to exercise their choice as to which purse they would like to make. 8. PURSE WITH HANDLES FOR CHILD'S OWN USE. Fifth Exercise in Plain Knitting on Steel Needles. Method of making a Crocheted Chain taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. J oz. No. 6 Knitting Cotton of any colour. Wool may be employed if preferred. Quantity of Knitting Cotton required for class of 50 = 13 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. 7Jd. Fig. 48. Purse with Handles for Child's own Use. Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 1\ in. without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 7 in. long. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off loosely. Making up. — Take the bottom edge of the strip and fold it upwards until it lies exactly over the top edge, thus forming a bag. Oversew the two sides together neatly, leaving 1 in. at the top of each side unsewn (see Fig. 48) . Turn the purse on to the right side. Make a crocheted chain of knitting cotton 14 in. long. Thread a large darning needle, bodkin, or raffia needle with this chain, and run it round the purse at the bottom of the loose flaps left at the top. Sew the loose ends of the cord neatly together, and draw up the top of the purse, so that a loop of the cord is left at each side to form a handle. 58 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 9. KNITTED IRON-HOLDER. Sixth Exercise in Plain Knitting. Materials.— Two Steel Needles— sizel4. f oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton of any colour. Cloth or flannel for padding, and sateen for lining. Quantity of Knitting Cotton required for class of 50 = 1 lb. 3 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 2s. 4£d. Fig. 49. Knitted Iron-holder. Instructions. — The cover for the Iron-holder is made of three strips, each of which is knitted as follows : Cast on 14 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 1J in. unstretched. Work a strip of knitting 5J in. long. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off. This exercise can be done as " Community " work, three children knitting a strip each to form one iron-holder. Making up. — Sew the three strips together to form a square (Fig. 49) . Place on this square, layers of cloth, flannel, etc., to form padding for the Holder, and on top of these place a lining of sateen, print, or calico. Turn in the raw edges of the lining, and oversew the folded edges of the lining to the sides of the knitted square. N.B. — A dish-cloth for Mother, a blackboard pad for Teacher, or a polishing pad for furniture or metal, are articles of a similar nature which may be made at this stage. STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 59 io. PINCUSHION COVER. Seventh Exercise in Plain Knitting. Sewing on of Cord for Decorative Purposes introduced. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 12. J oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton, or \ ball of " O-So-Silkie," Medium Size (2d. a ball). The cover shown in the illus- tration is knitted from " O-So-Silkie." Quantity of Knitting Cotton required for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. 7d. Fig. 50. Pincushion Cover. Instructions. — The Pincushion Cover consists of two squares, each of which is knitted as follows : Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will produce a width of 3£ in. without stretching. Work a square of plain knitting ; knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off. Making up. — Place the second square over the first. Oversew the edges of the two squares together round three sides, and then turn the cover on to the right side. Insert the square pincushion, which may consist of a white' calico cover, stuffed with any cuttings or frayings from the children's work. Oversew the edges of the fourth side together after the insertion of the cushion. Now decorate the pincushion by sewing round the edges a plaited chain. Form the chain into a loop at each corner, as shown in Fig. 50. The chain should be about 23 in. long, and made from six threads of " O-So-Silkie," two threads going together to form one strand of the plait. •60 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. ii. WASHING GLOVE. Larger Number of Stitches Employed. Materials.— Two Bone Needles— size 9. J oz. Milford's White Knitting Cotton, No. 6 (three threads). A 2-oz. ball of this cotton may be obtained for 3d., and three balls, or 6 oz., will knit eight gloves at a cost of 9d. Fig. 51. Washing Glove. Instructions. — Cast on 30 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 5J in. wide without stretching. (Employ second method of casting-on described under General Instructions.) Work 15 in. of plain knitting with chain edge. Cast off. Making up. — Fold the strip into halves, as shown in Fig. 51, and oversew neatly up the two side-seams. Turn the glove on to the right side. 12. DOLL'S MUFF WITH KNITTED NECK SUPPORT. to teach the method of knitting with a section of the stitches, while the Others are Temporarily Passed on to Wool to be Picked up and Knitted Later. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. J oz. of 4-ply wool. Quantity required for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 3s. Id. (For cheaper wool, see under Woolcraft.) STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 61 If No. 6 Knitting Cotton be employed, the amount required for a class of 50 will be 17 oz., and the total cost of the same, 2s. 1 Jd. Instructions. — Cast on 14 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a width of 2£ in. without stretching. Work 3£ in. of plain knitting with chain edge. Now knit seven stitches (i.e., half-way along the needle), and slip the remaining Fig. 52. Doll's Muff with Knitted Neck Support. stitches on to a darning needle threaded with wool. Draw the needle through gently, leaving the stitches supported by the wool. Unthread the needle, and tie the two- ends of the wool securely together. The stitches will thus be out of the way until they are required, and there will be no fear of their dropping. Continue to work plain knitting on the remaining seven stitches, until a narrow strip 7 in. long has been knitted with chain edge as before. Cast off. The diagram in Fig. 53 shows the shape of the knitting laid flat before the muff is made up. Now slip the stitches- 62 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. which were supported on the wool on to a knitting-needle and draw out the wool. Knit on these seven stitches a strip 6 in. long, also with chain edge. Cast on. 6° \!< D \ c. ^ B 7 i G H t F <— -at" -> Fig. 53. Doll's Muff with Knitted Neck Support. Making up. — Fold EF to GH and sew firmly down. Sew AB (the top edge of the shorter strip) to CD (a section of the inside edge of the longer strip). Turn the muff on to the other side, and it will be found that the shape shown in Fig. 52 has been produced. 13. DOLL'S WOOLLEN SHOE. Casting off a Section of the Stitches taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. -J- oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of suitable thickness. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 6J oz. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = Is. 6 £d. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities, see under Woolcraft.) STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 63 Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2\ in. without' stretching. There will be about 38 or 40 rows. (For method of counting rows, see General Instructions^ Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Fig. 54. Doll's Woollen Shoe. Now cast off 12 stitches, that is, along the line AB, shown in Fig. 55, which illustrates the shape of the shoe opened out before it is made up. This will leave eight stitches on the needle for knitting the toe of the shoe. Knit three-quarters of an inch on these eight stitches. This will be about 12 rows. Cast off, producing the edge CD. <■- IX"- -~> Fig. 55. Doll's Woollen Shoe. Ankle-band. — Cast on 24 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 3 in., for knitting the ankle-band. Knit about 6 rows of plain knitting, and then cast off. Making up. — Sew the short edge CD to the portion of the cast-on edge which comes opposite to it, i.e., to EF. Now flatten the work, so that the narrow portion 64 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. of the knitting forms the centre of the toe-piece. Sew together the two edges at the toe, drawing the seam up slightly at the same time, in order to round the corners. Sew up the seam at the heel, making a pleat at the bottom of the seam, in order to shape the shoe to fit the heel. (See Fig. 54.) Sew the centre of the ankle-strap to the centre of the back of the shoe. The ankle-strap may be fastened by means of : (1) A loop and button, (2) a press-stud, or (3) tying with a crocheted chain. Decorate the toe of the shoe with a bow of ribbon or a woollen pompom. N.B. — The sewing together of this shoe is too difficult for Standard I children, and should be done for them by the older girls. 14. BABY'S KNITTED SHOE. Eighth Exercise in Plain Knitting. More Advanced Example of Casting- off a Section of the Stitches. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — -size 14. 1§ balls of " O-So-Silkie," Medium size, will make one pair. Cost at 2d. per ball = 3 £d. If economy is important, a pah- can be made from 1 oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton at a cost of l£d. Fig. 56. Baby's Knitted Shoe. Instructions. — Cast on 38 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 4 J in. without stretching. (Employ second method described under General Instructions, as this produces a firm edge.) Work 4J in. of plain knitting. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all the succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off 20 stitches, leaving 18 on the needle for knitting the top or toe of the shoe. Knit 1 J in. on these 18 stitches and then cast off. Cast on 46 stitches for the ankle-strap, or as many as will give a width of 6 in. Knit eight rows of plain knitting, and cast off. Making up. — The method of making up and fastening the shoe is exactly the same as that employed in the Doll's Woollen Shoe, given in the preceding exercise. Decorate the toe with a bow of ribbon or a silk pompom. STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 65 15. KNITTED TOY REINS. Plain Knitting employed for Article of more Difficult Construction. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. 1 oz. of 4-ply wool or other wool of suitable thickness. If wool at 2s. 8d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one set of reins will be 2d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton at 2s. a lb. be employed, the quantity required will be 1£ oz., and the cost a little less than 2d. Fig. 57. Knitted Toy Reins. Instructions. — Strip for Waist. — Cast on 12 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2\ in. without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting about 22 in. in length. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all the succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off. (To determine the exact 5— (815E) 66 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. length required, measure the strip round the waist of the child for whose wear the reins are intended.) Strip for Reins. — Cast on eight stitches, or as many as will give a width of 1J in. Knit a second strip of plain knitting about 36 in. long. Cast off. Making up. — Sew little bells on to the front of the strip for the waist, as shown in Fig. 57. Let the strip of knitting be fastened round the waist by means of a press-stud strongly sewn on. Attach the ends of the longer strip to the waistband, at points 5 in. from each end of the latter. Sew these ends on to the waistband very strongly. N.B. — As this is a large piece of knitting for a Standard I child to undertake alone, the teacher may, if she wishes, let several children co-operate in the work, each one knitting a strip of about 6 or 8 in. in length. The strips may then be joined together neatly to form the completed reins. 16. KNITTED TOY REINS (ALTERNATIVE SHAPE). Further Practice in Casting off a Section of the Stitches. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. 1J oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 4d. (For cheaper wools, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton at 2s. a lb. be employed, the amount required will be 1J oz., and the cost 2Jd. Instructions. — These reins consist of a broad piece of knitting which fits across the chest, two narrower strips to fit round the. arms, and a long strip for the reins. Strip for Chest. — Cast on 14 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a width of 2\ in. without stretching. Employ the second method of casting on (see General Instructions). Work 10J in. of plain knitting with chain edge. The exact length required must be determined by measuring the child for whose -wear the reins are intended. Strip for First Armhole. — Cast off 7 stitches, thus producing the edge AB shown in Fig. 59. Continue to work plain knitting with chain edge on the remaining 7 stitches, i.e., along BC, until a length of about 11 in. has been knitted. Cast off. Strip for Second Armhole. — Pick up 7 loops at the end of the chest strap where the stitches were first cast on, i.e., along DE in Fig. 59. Commence to knit on these 7 stitches, knitting along the first row with double wool, except for the first stitch, which will be knitted with single wool. Do plain knitting with chain edge, until 11 in. has been knitted. Cast off. Long Strip for Reins. — Cast on 10 stitches, or as many as will give a width of about If- in. Again employ second method of casting on. Work a strip of plain knitting with chain edge about 40 in. long. Making up. — Sew FG, the cast-off end of the first armhole strip, to AB, which is the edge of the chest strap where the seven stitches were cast off. This completes one armhole. Similarly sew JH, the cast-off end of the second armhole strip, to KE to form the other armhole. Sew each end of the long strip for the reins to the centre of the outside edge of an armhole strip, as shown in Fig. 58. Do this sewing very strongly, as it will have to withstand great strain. STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 67 Note.—(\) For carrying this out as " Community " work, see under previous exercise. (2) Either Exercise 15 or 16 can be shortened and used as a support for a baby in its first walking lessons. Fig. 58. Knitted Toy Reins. (Alternative Shape.) _a 1i ~J .,,. >c4 iq^.. __ 7Dt ..„_ n« Fig. 59. Knitted Toy Reins. (Alternative Shape!, STANDARD II. I. KNITTED BOOK MARKER WITH FRINGED ENDS. Purling taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. \ ball of " O-So-Silkie," Medium size, at 2d. per ball, or \ oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton. Quantity of Knitting Cotton required for class of 50 = 12 \ oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. 7d. Instructions. — Cast on 12 stitches, or as many as will give a width, of 1J in. without stretching. Knit two rows and purl two rows alternately, until a strip 9 or 10 in. long has been knitted. (Full instructions for purling are given under General Instructions. Demonstrate to class with large, wooden needles and rug wool.) After the first row, slip the first stitch at the commencement of each row. Cast off. Put a fringe at each end of the marker, as described under General Instructions. Fig. 60. Knitted Book Marker with Fringed Ends. 2. COVER FOR NEEDLE-BOOK. Second Exercise in Purling. Materials.— Two Steel Needles— size 12. \ Ball of " O-So-Silkie," Medium size, at 2d. per ball, or J oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton. Quantity of knitting Cotton for class of 50 = 12£ oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. 7d. Instructions. — Cast on 16 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 3 in without stretching. Purl a strip of knitting 12 in. long. Purl every stitch of the first row,. 68 STANDARD II. 69 and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch purl-wise and purl the remaining stitches. Cast off. Making up. — The stiff case of thick card in which the flannel for the needles is fixed, may be made by Standard IV boys. Each cover consists of a piece of card measuring 3 in. by 2\ in. Join these two covers together down the back by strips of paper or linen, one on the outside of the case, and one on the inside. Let the flannel on which the needles will be placed measure 2J in. by 4J in., and neatly overcast it all the way round. Join the knitting together as follows to form the cover : Fold each end of the strip inwards towards the middle, till the two ends almost meet in the centre of the work. Sew the top and bottom edges Fig. 61. Cover for Needle-book. of each turned-down flap to the top and bottom edges of the under-part of the knitting. Right and left-hand pockets will thus be formed, into which the cardboard covers of the needle-book can be slipped in turn. When the knitted cover has been slipped on, the flannel may be secured in the cover by sewing it in with narrow ribbon. A large darning needle will take the ribbon quite easily, and can be passed through the back of the cardboard and knitted covers. Finish off the needle-book by tying the ribbon in a bow at the back. 70 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 3(A). ANTIMACASSAR FOR DOLL'S HOUSE. Knitting One Row and Purling One Row introduced. Materials.— Two Steel Needles — size 12. £ BaU of " O-So-Silkie," Medium size, at 2d. per ball, or £ oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton. Quantity of Knitting Cotton for class of 50 = 8J oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. OJd. Fig. 62. Antimacassar for Doll's House. Instructions. — Cast on 16 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2J in. unstretched. Knit one row and purl one row alternately, until a strip 4 in. long has been knitted. After the first row, always slip the first stitch at the commencement of each row. Cast off. Make a double fringe at each end, as described under General Instructions at the beginning of the book. 3(B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED ANTIMACASSAR FOR HOUSEHOLD USE. Materials.— About 12 balls of " O-So-Silkie," at 2 balls for 3£d. required. Cost = Is. 9d. STANDARD II. 71 Instructions. — A full-sized Antimacassar can be made by knitting about 6 strips like the one described above for a Doll's House, each one being, however, about 26 in. in length. Neatly join these strips down their length, and fringe the ends of the finished Antimacassar. Fig. 63. Doll's Sofa Rug. 4. DOLL'S SOFA RUG. Method of Joining Wool taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 12. \ oz. of Single Berlin Wool or 4-ply wool of two shades. Total quantity for a class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 3s. Id. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool, and other qualities, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — Cast on, with the lighter shade of wool, 20 stitches, or as many 72 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. as will give a width of 3 in. without stretching. Knit 11 rows of plain knitting, slipping the first stitch in such a manner as to produce chain edge. (See General Instructions.) Knit along the 12th row, until five stitches from the end are reached. Break off the wool, leaving an end about 5 in. long. Join on with the darker shade in the manner described under General Instructions, working four stitches with the double wool, and the last stitch with single wool of the new colour. (The teacher must demonstrate to the class the method of joining with large wooden needles and rug wool of two contrasting colours.) Knit 11 rows of plain knitting with the second colour. Knit along the 12th row, until 5 stitches from the end are reached, and then join on with the first shade of wool again, in the manner described above. Continue to knit strips of alternate colours in this manner, until about 6 in. of knitting has been done. Cast off. Fringe the ends of the rug, as sho«n in Fig. 63. (See General Instructions.) 5. DOLL'S DUTCH BONNET. More Difficult Exercise in Knitting and Purling Alternate Rows. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 12. \ oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of suitable thickness. Quantity required for class of 50 = 12 \ oz. Cost of same at 3s. 8d. per lb. = 2s. 10£d. (For other varieties of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 64. Doll's Dutch Bonnet. STANDARD II. 73 Instructions. — Cast on 40 stitches, or as many as will produce a width of 6£ in. without stretching. Knit two rows of plain knitting. Now knit one row and purl one row alternately for eight rows. Knit three more plain rows to make a natural fold where the flap turns back. Purl one row and knit one row alternately until 3J in. has been knitted to form the part to fit the head. Cast off. Making up. — Sew up the back seam of the bonnet on the wrong side, drawing it up slightly, in order to shape it to the back of the head. Turn the bonnet on to the right side, and fold back the flap. The plain sides of both the flap and the bonnet itself, should now appear uppermost. Make two lengths of crocheted woollen chain, each 16 in. long. Use these for making looped rosettes and strings for tying. Attach them to the sides of the bonnet as shown in Fig. 64. N.B. — Instructions for knitting a Child's Dutch Bonnet in a more decorative pattern are given under the Standard IV Syllabus. 6. COSY FOR DOLL'S TEAPOT. Knit Two Purl Two taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13 or 14. \ oz. of Double Berlin Wool, or Double Fingering. Quantity required for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 3s. 8d. per lb. = 2s. 10£d. (For other qualities of Double Knitting Wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 65. Cosy for Doll's Teapot. 74 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — The Cosy is made up of two separate halves, each of which is knitted as follows : Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 24. in. unstretched. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 4. Teach children how to change from knitting to purling, and vice versa. Let them now proceed to work ribbed knitting of Knit Two Purl Two until they have completed a strip 2 \ in. in length. They will slip the first stitch of each row after the first, exactly as in the case of the strips made entirely of plain knitting or of purling. Cast off. Making up. — Place the two halves of the Cosy together, and sew up the side- seams for J in. from the bottom, and \ in. from the top. This will leave 1J in. in the middle of each side unsewn, and through these spaces the handle and spout of the teapot can be passed. Draw up the Cosy \ in. from the top. Decorate the front of this gathering with a bow of ribbon, a bow of plaited wool, or small pompoms. Encourage every child who possesses a doll's tea-service of her own to bring her own teapot, and to estimate the number of stitches required to fit her own pot. Instructions for knitting a full-sized Tea Cosy for household use are given under the Standard III Syllabus, and a crocheted Tea Cosy is described under the work for Standard VII. 7. DOLL'S VEST- More Difficult Exercise in Knit Two Purl Two. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13. •§■ oz. of 4-ply Pink Vest Wool Quantity required for class of 50 = about 2 lb. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 7s. lOd. (For other qualities of 4-ply Vest Wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The vest is made in two halves, each of which is knitted in the following manner : Cast on 36 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2$ in. of ribbed knitting unstretched. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 4. Work ribbed knitting of Knit Two Purl Two, until a strip of 5 in. has been done. After the first row, always slip the first stitch of each row. Now cast off all the stitches except 8 at the end of the row. Continue to knit on these 8 stitches, substituting plain knitting for the ribbed pattern. This strip of plain knitting forms the shoulder strap for one side of the vest. When 2\ in. of this plain knitting has been worked, cast off. Making up. — Place one half of the vest upon the other half, so that one shoulder strap is at the right-hand side of the work, and the other at the left. Now sew up the side seams, starting from the bottom. Leave £ in. of ribbed knitting unsewn at the top of each side-seam, to form part of the armhole. Sew the shoulder straps into position, carrying the strap attached to the front half of the work to the back, and the strap from the back to the front. A simple chain crochet border may be put round the neck and arms by a girl in a higher standard. The edging shown in the illustration is done as follows : — One double crochet in first stitch, * chain four, miss one stitch, and double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat from * right round the neck and arms of vest. Draw up the neck by running through this chain border a crocheted or plaited chain of wool. Even smaller pompoms than those shown in Fig. 66 may be attached to the ends of the chain, or these may be simply finished with knots. Instructions for knitting a child's vest in a more difficult pattern are given under the Standard IV Syllabus. STANDARD II. 75- Fig. 66. Doll's Vest. 8. DOLL'S KNITTED HAT. Knit One Purl One taught for Border of Hat. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13 or 14. f oz. of any 4-ply wool'.. Quantity for class of 50 = 19 oz. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 4s. 8d (Foir cheaper qualities and other varieties of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 67. Doll's Knitted Hat. 76 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions.— Cast on 32 stitches, or an even number which will give a width of 4 in. without stretching. Show children how to do ribbing of Knit One Purl One. They will quickly see that the method employed is the same as for Knit Two Purl Two, but that the position of the wool is changed for every stitch instead of for every two stitches. Let them now proceed to work ribbed knitting of Knit One Purl One for eight rows, or about $ in. After the first row, always slip the commencing stitch of each row. This ribbed portion completes the turned up border for the front edge of the hat. Change now to plain knitting, still slipping the first stitch of each row. Continue until 5 in. of plain knitting has been done. Now commence ribbed knitting again, and do eight rows of Knit On i Purl One (i.e., about \ in.) to form the turned up border for the back edge of the hat. Cast off. N.B. — A pretty pattern may be produced by casting on an odd number of stitches and employing k. 1 p. 1 throughout. Making up. — Fold the strip of knitting so that it forms a double square. Over- sew up the two sides, thus producing a square bag. Turn this bag on to the right side, and fold up the strips of Knit One Purl One to form the rim or border of the hat. Now take each top corner of the hat in turn and draw it down to the side on to the rim which has been turned up. Sew each point down firmly, and over each sew a little full woollen pompom to form a pretty finish. Instructions for knitting a full-sized child's hat in two different patterns are given under the syllabuses for Standards III and IV respectively. 9. DOLL'S JERSEY. More Difficult Exercise involving Knit One Purl Oxe. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. \} t oz. of 4-ply wool. If wool at 2s. 8d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one Jersey will be 2Jd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — Only the best knitters should be allowed to attempt a jersey the size of the one described below, as it involves a large amount of work for a Standard II child. A jersey of about half the size, to fit a smaller doll, can be planned without difficulty from the following instructions. Front of Jersey. — Cast on 36 stitches, or an even number which will give a width of 3J in. of ribbed knitting, unstretched. The same number of stitches will be found to produce a width of 4£ in. when the plain knitted part is reached. Work 1 in. of ribbed knitting of Knit One Purl One to form the border of the jersey. After the first row always slip the commencing stitch of each row. Change to plain knitting, and work 6 in. of this. Cast off 9 stitches at the commencement of the row, and continue plain knit- ting to the end of the needle. At the commencement of the next row, again cast off 9 stitches, thus leaving in the centre of the knitting 18 stitches not cast off. On these 18 stitches work ribbed knitting of Knit One Purl O.ie, for the neck-band of the jersey. Do about \ in. of this ribbing, and then cast off. Back of Jersey. — Knit this in the same way as the front. STANDARD II. 77 Sleeves. — Knit each sleeve as follows : Cast on 24 stitches. Do \ in. of Knit One Purl One ribbing, to form the turned up cuff at the wrist. Change to plain, knitting, and work 3£ in. more. Cast off loosely. Making up. — Sew the front and back of the jersey together, commencing at the bottom of each side-seam ; leave 1£ in. at the top of each side open for the insertion of the sleeves. Sew up one shoulder seam and the seam at one side q£ Fig. 68. Doll's Jersey. the neck-band. The shoulder and neck seam at the opposite side will be left open, so that the jersey may be easily slipped over the doll's head. Sew up the sleeve seams, and turn the sleeves on to the right side. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and turn the jersey on to the right side. Sew on small pearl buttons and woollen loops for the fastening of shoulder and neck, the woollen loops being made of fine crocheted chain. An alternative and easier method is to fasten with press-studs, which may be purchased at 20 a penny. N.B. — Instructions for knitting a child's jersey are given under the Standard VI Syllabus. 78 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 10. DOLL'S KILTED WOOLLEN SKIRT. :More Difficult Pattern in Knitting and Purling taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1^ oz. of any 4-ply wool. If wool At 2s. 8d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one Kilt will be about 2£d. (For other ■qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Doll's Kilted Woollen Skirt. Instructions. — The kilt is knitted in one long strip, the ends of which are joined -together part of the way, to form the seam down the centre of the back of the kilt. Cast on 46 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 5J in. wide without ■stretching. 1st Six Rows. — Knit one row and purl one row alternately, thus finishing with a purl row. 2nd Six Rows. — Purl one row and knit one row alternately, thus finishing with a STANDARD II. 79 knitted row. This completes the pattern. Repeat these 12 rows 17 times more, or until a length of 12 in. has been knitted. Cast off loosely. Making up. — Sew the two ends of the strip together, except for 1£ in., to form a circular knitted skirt. Cut out and make up a sateen bodice to fit the doll, and attach the kilt to this bodice. ii. DOLL'S KNITTED COAT (f-LENGTH). Knit One Purl One employed, for Article of more Difficult Construction. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1| oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of suitable thickness. If wool at 3s. 9d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one coat will be about 3£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — Only the best knitters should be allowed to attempt a coat as large as the one described below, as it involves a great deal of work for a Standard II child. A coat of about half the size, to fit a smaller doll, can be planned without difficulty from the following instructions. Fronts. — Each of the two fronts is knitted as follows : Cast on 28 stitches, or an even number which will give a width of 2\ in. of ribbed knitting without stretching. Work ribbed knitting of Knit One Purl One, until a length of 7 J in. has been knitted. Slip the commencing stitch of every row after the first. Cast off. Back. — Cast on 48 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 3| in. of ribbed knitting unstretched. Knit 1\ in. of Knit One Purl One ribbing. Cast off. Sleeves. — Each of the sleeves is knitted as follows : Cast on 30 stitches, or as many as will give ribbed knitting having a width of 2f in. unstretched. Do 4J in. of ribbed knitting as described under Fronts. Cast off. Collar. — Cast on 6 stitches, or as many as will give a width of about \ in. Work b\ in. of plain knitting, and then cast off. N.B. — In the case of dolls of different sizes, let each girl estimate for herself the number of stitches required to produce the dimensions necessary for her own doll. This will provide excellent practice in fitting and measuring. Making up. — Sew up the sleeve seams, and turn the sleeves on to the right side. Next do up the side seams of the coat by sewing the fronts on to the back. Leave about If in. unsewn at the top of each side seam to form the armholes. (Again let each girl estimate for herself the exact amount to be left unsewn, thus providing further exercise in fitting and measuring.) Now, starting from the top of each armhole in turn, sew along the shoulder seams, for a dis- tance of 1J in. from each end. This will leave the middle section of the back and fronts not sewn together along the top, the open part forming the neck opening of the coat. Sew the collar round this neck opening, easing it on slightly, so that when it is turned down, it will lie quite flat. Now sew in the sleeves on the wrong side of the coat ; turn back a fold at the wrists | in. or J in. in depth, to form a cuff. Turn the coat on to the right side. Lastly, attach loops of crocheted or plaited chain to the right-hand side of the front, and small pearl buttons to the left-hand side. iV. B. — A full-length coat, to reach to the hem of the doll's frock, may be made by knitting the fronts and back 10J in. long, instead of 1\ in. STANDARD II. 81 12. DOLL'S KNITTED PETTICOAT. New Pattern, involving Knit Two Purl Two and Plain Knitting. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1£ oz. of 4-ply wool. If wool at 2s. 8d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one Petticoat will be 2Jd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 71. Doll's Petticoat. Instructions. — The 'pattern employed for this petticoat looks well on either side, though the one selected for the right side in the photograph of the complete garment (Fig. 71), is the more ornamental. An illustration is also shown (Fig. 72) of a small section of the reverse side of the knitting. 6— (8i5b) 82 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Allow only the best knitters to attempt a petticoat as large as the one des- cribed below, as it involves a great deal of work for a Standard II child. A petti- coat of about half the size, to fit a smaller doll, can be planned without difficulty from the following instructions. The petticoat is made in two sections, a front half and a back half, each of which is knitted as follows : Employing the bone needles, cast on 40 stitches, or Fig. 72. Doll's Knitted Petticoat. Reverse Side of Pattern. as many as will give a width of 6 in. without stretching. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 4. Is* Row. — * Knit Two Purl Two. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd Row. — Knit plain. Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until 5J in. has been knitted. After the first row, slip the commencing stitch of each row. Now slip the stitches on to the steel needles, and continue the pattern on these for three more inches. (The finer needles will produce a much narrower strip of STANDARD II. 83 knitting, thus reducing the width for the bodice section of the petticoat without .employing narrowings.) Cast off all the stitches except eight at the end of the needle. Change now to plain knitting, and continue to knit on these eight stitches until 1\ in. has "been knitted to form a shoulder-strap. Cast off. N.B. — In the case of dolls of different sizes, let each girl estimate for herself the number of stitches required to produce the dimensions necessary for her own doll. This will provide excellent practice in fitting and measuring. Making up. — Place one half pf the petticoat upon the other half, so that one shoulder-strap is at the right-hand side of the work and the other at the left. Sew up the side seams of the skirt and bodice, starting from the bottom. Leave J in. of ribbed knitting unsewn at the top of each side seam of the bodice, to form the lower part of the armhole. Sew the shoulder-straps into position at the back and front respectively, carrying the strap attached to the front half of the work to the back, and the strap from the back to the front. An alternative method is to leave the latter strap unsewn, and to fasten by means of buttons and loops. This plan gives more room for taking off and on. Decorate the neck opening and the armholes of the petticoat by a simple crochet edging similar to that described under " Doll's Vest " (No. 7, St. II). Draw up the neck and, if necessary, the waist, by narrow ribbon, or by a chain of wool with pompoms attached to the ends. N.B. — Instructions for a full-sized knitted petticoat for a baby are given under the Standard V Syllabus. 13. DOLL'S SLIPPER WITH LEATHER SOLE. More Difficult Exercise involving Casting-off a Section of the Stitches. Revision of Knit One Purl One. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. -J- oz. of any 4-ply wool. Quantity required for class of 50 = 6 J oz. Cost of wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = Is. 7d. (For •cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities, see under Woolcraft.) Sole ■cut out in thin leather to fit the doll's foot. Instructions. — The accompanying diagram (Fig. 73) shows the shape of the knitting opened out before the shoe is made up. Cast on 14 stitches, or an even number which will give a width of 1J in. 1st Row. — K. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, and then knit plain to the end of row. 2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch, knit the next eight stitches plain, and then do p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1. 3rd Row.— Slip 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, and then knit plain to the end of row. Repeat second and third rows alternately, until 4 in. has been knitted. Cast off six stitches at the ribbed end of the row, i.e., along AB (see Diagram), and continue plain knitting on the remainder of the stitches until 1 in. of the narrower strip has been knitted. Cast off these eight stitches, thus forming the edge CF. 84 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. r <- I" » r ec- iv — ■> Fig. 73. Doll's Slipper with Leather Sole. Making up. — Sew the inside edge of the narrower strip, BC, to DE, the plain part of the first row of the slipper, where the stitches were cast on. Turn down the ribbed edge to fit round the ankle, and sew the plain knitted edge on to the thin leather sole. The point F will thus form the toe of the slipper. Decorate the front by means of a woollen pompom or a bow of ribbon. Fig. 74. Doll's Slipper with Leather Sole. N.B. — Instructions for knitting a full-sized bedroom slipper are given under- the Standard IV Syllabus. STANDARD II. 85 14 (A). KNITTED RUG FOR DOLL'S HOUSE. Method of Inserting Short Lengths of Wool taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. £ oz. of Double Berlin Wool, and & oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. for class of 50 = Is. 9£d. Cost of Knitting Cotton at 2s. per lb. = Is. 2d. Fig. 75. Knitted Rug for Doll's House. Instructions. — The Berlin wool must be cut into lengths of 1 J in. each. These lengths, knitted into the texture, will form the " Pile " of the rug. They must be absolutely equal in length, and may be cut after winding the wool round a doubled piece of card, or round a strip of wood with a slot grooved in one side, as described below under " Full-sized Rug." Cast on 15 stitches with the knitting cotton, or an odd number of stitches which will produce a width of 2 in., and knit one row plain. 2nd Row. — Knit one stitch plain. Now insert between the first and second stitches a length of Berlin wool, so that one end projects away from the knitter, and one end towards her. Knit the second stitch. Take the loose end projecting towards the knitter, and place it in the space between the second and third stitches, so that now both ends of the short length of wool are turned away from the knitter, and project from the other side of the work. Knit the third stitch, thus fixing the short length into position. See that both projecting ends of Berlin wool are of equal length. Proceed to insert another short length between the third and fourth stitches. Knit the fourth stitch. Turn in the other end of the second length and knit the fifth stitch. Continue this all along the row. 3rd Row. — Knit plain. Repeat the second and third rows until a strip about 4 in. long has been knitted. Finish with a row of plain knitting, and cast off. Making up. — Gum a layer of wadding on to the wrong side of the rug. Place over the wadding a layer of fine Hurden to form a strong lining. Turn in raw edges, and sew strongly all the way round to the knitted edges of the rug. Fig. 76 shows the rug on the wrong side unlined, and the wrong side after being padded and lined with Hurden. KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Hltrt»M»»»HMmnltlt»t»t fc. Fig. 76. Knitted Rug for Doll's House. 14(B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED RUG FOR HOUSEHOLD USE. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 12. 12 lb. Beehive Turkey Rug Wool (6-ply plain twist), and 3f lb. of Rug Cotton (6 Threads). (This Knitting Cotton should not be confused with the No. 6 Knitting Cotton previously mentioned, which is a much finer 3-ply cotton.) Wadding and Hurden for padding and lining. Cost of Rug Wool at 2s. Id. per lb. = 25s. Cost of Knitting Cotton at Is. 6d. per lb. = 5s. 7£d. Instructions. — The rug described below costs about 3s. more than a rug of similar size made on canvas, as the knitting cotton is an expensive item. Two yards of rug canvas a yard wide may be obtained for 2s. 6d. The rug on canvas, however, does not lend itself to " Community " work for children in the same way that a knitted one does. A convenient size for a large rug is 2 yds. long and 1 yd. wide. The knitting STANDARD II. 87 will be done in strips, to be afterwards sewn firmly together. The strips should be knitted for the width of the rug, so that each will be 1 yd. in length. The cuttings of rug wool employed should be about 4 in. in length. The best way to cut these of uniform length is to wind the wool evenly round a strip of wood with a slot grooved in one side, or round a double layer of thick card ; a number of lengths can then be cut at once by slipping the scissors along the slot. A prepared piece of wood for the purpose, known as a " Gauge," may be purchased from any wool shop for Id. or 2d. Cast on 19 stitches for each strip. This will produce strips about 4 in. in width. A larger number of stitches may be employed if wider strips are preferred, but the number selected must be an odd number. Proceed as described under Doll's Rug, employing Rug Wool instead of Double Berlin. Knit a sufficient number of strips to produce the length of rug required. Making up. — Sew the strips together with knitting cotton, taking care that they fit exactly at the ends. When this has been done, lay the rug on a large table with the pile downwards, and, with thin adhesive, gum layers of wadding on to the wrong side of the rug. These layers should be tacked as well as gummed, to prevent any possibility of their moving when the rug is shaken. Place a layer of Hurden over the wadding to form a strong lining for the rug. Turn in the raw edges, and sew the Hurden lining to the knitted edges of the rug with waxed thread. N.B. — The making of strips for a full-sized rug is a sufficiently hard exercise for Standard III children, and will take the form of " Community " work. 15(A). DOLL'S CROCHETED SHAWL. Double Crochet taught. Materials. — Coarse Bone Crochet Hook. \ oz. 4-ply wool. Cjuantity7required for class of 50 = 12£ oz. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s. 6d. (For cheaper qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft. Fig. 77. Doll's Crocheted Shawl. 88 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — The shawl is made from a square of double crochet. Square for Shawl. — Commence by making a loose chain of 25, or as many as will measure 8 in. (For method of making chain, see General Instructions.) 1st Row. — Commencing with the second chain from the hook, work one double crochet into each of the following chain stitches all along the row. (See General Instructions.) Make one chain and turn. 2nd Row. — Work one double crochet into each stitch of the previous row, taking up both the back and the front threads. Make one chain and turn. (N.B — As it is a rather difficult matter to keep the edges quite level, it is a good plan to let the children count their stitches each row, to see that the number remains constant.) Repeat the second row, until 8 in. has been worked. Do not break off the wool. Border of Shawl. — Chain four, miss a stitch, and work one double crochet into the second stitch along the row. * Chain four, miss one, and work a double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat from * round each side of the shawl. 15 (B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED CROCHETED SHAWL IN SIMILAR PATTERN. Materials. — f lb. of 4-ply wool. Cost at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s. 4£d. Instructions. — A full-sized shawl may be made in a similar manner to the one described above. Let the commencing chain, however, be about 40 in. in length, and continue to work until the shawl is about 40 in. square. This exercise is, owing to its size, sufficiently difficult for Standard IV children. One of the crocheted borders described under the work for that standard, may be substituted for the chain border of the doll's shawl. 16(A). DOLL'S CROCHETED HAT. Second Exercise in Double Crochet. Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. £ oz. of 4-ply wool. Quantity required for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s. 6d. (For cheaper qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The hat is made from an oblong worked in double crochet. Commence by making a loose chain of 20, or as many as will measure 4 in. in length. 1st Row. — Commencing with the second chain from the hook, work one double crochet into each of the following chain stitches all along the row. Make one chain and turn. 2nd Row.— Work one double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. taking up the back thread only. This produces the ridged effect seen in the illustration. Make one chain and turn. Repeat the second row until a length of 6 J in. has been worked. Making up.— Fold the length of crochet into halves. Oversew up the two sides, thus producing a bag. Turn this bag on to the right side, and turn up a STANDARD II. 89 fold all the way round about J in. in depth. Now take each top corner of the hat in turn and sew it down on to the brim. Over each point sew a decorative button to form a neat and pretty finish. Fig. 78. Doll's Crocheted Hat. 16(B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR A FULL-SIZED CROCHETED HAT TO FIT A CHILD OF TEN YEARS. Materials. — 2 oz. 4-ply wool. Cost at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 7d. Instructions. — Adopt a method of working similar to that described above, but employ the following dimensions : — Commence with a chain measuring about 10£ in. in length. (The exact length necessary should be determined by fitting the work to the child's head when a few rows have been done.) Make the oblong about 17 in. long. Turn up a brim all round, about 2 in. in depth. The full-sized hat is a sufficiently difficult exercise for Standard IV children. 17. CROCHETED PURSE FOR CHILD'S OWN USE. Third Exercise in Double Crochet. Finer Hook Employed. Materials. — Fine Bone Crochet Hook. T \ oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton. Quantity required for class of 50 = 1 lb. 6 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 2s. 9d. (The work can be made less expensive by employing a finer knitting cotton, though the purses will be less stout and hard-wearing.) The purse is made up from a crocheted oblong. Begin by making a loose chain of 18, or as many as will measure 3£ in. in length. 1st Row. — Commencing with the second chain from the hook, work one double crochet into each of the following chain stitches all along the row. Make one chain and turn. 90 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 2nd Row. — Work one double crochet into each stitch of the previous row, taking up both the back and front threads. Make one chain and turn. Repeat the second row until 5 in. has been worked. Fig. 79. Crocheted Purse for Child's Own Use. Making up. — Turn up 1J in. of the length from the bottom edge, leaving 1J in. of the length •from the top uncovered, to form the flap of the purse. Sew up the two side seams, and turn the purse on to the right side. Sew on press-studs for fastening the flap down at each side. Work a crocheted chain about 36 in. in length, and sew an end of this strongly to each side of the purse underneath the flap. STANDARD III. i. SMALL BOY'S KNITTED BRACES. Knitting Two Together, and First Method of Making an Extra Stitch taught. Materials. — Two Steel Knitting-needles — size 14. J oz. of Milford's White Knitting Cotton, No. 6 (3 threads). This may be bought at 3d. for a 2-oz. ball. 12 in. white Webbing. Total Cost = Id. per pair. Fig. 80. Knitted Braces for Small Boy. Instructions. — Knit two strips of knitting in the following manner : Cast on 10 stitches, or as many as will produce in ribbed knitting of knit 1, purl 1 a width of J in. unstretched. Do 2\ in. of ribbed knitting of knit 1, purl 1, slipping the commencing stitch of every row after the first. Now widen as follows : Knit 2, knit twice into the next stitch (see first method of increasing described in General Instructions), knit 1, knit twice into next stitch, 91 92 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. knit 1, knit twice into next stitch, knit 1, knit twice into next stitch, knit 1. There will now be 14 stitches on the needle. Change now to plain knitting with chain edge, and knit 10 in. of this. Now narrow for a ribbed strip at the end of the brace as follows : Slip the first stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1. (For illustration of knitting two together, see General Instructions.) This reduces the stitches to 10. Change now to ribbing of knit 1, purl 1, and work 2\ in. in the same manner as described for the commencement of the brace. Cast off. Each strip thus knitted forms one half of the braces. Making up. — Join the two strips together to form the back of the braces, by sewing their edges firmly together for 1 in. above the ribbed ends. {See Fig. 80.) Cut four strips of webbing each 3 in. long. Turn in and hem the raw edges at the ends of each of these, and work a button-hole of the required size in each strip. Sew one end of each strip of webbing firmly and neatly on to the wrong side of the ends of the braces. (See Fig. 80.) Let the working of the button-holes and the attachment of the webbing be done by Standard V or VI girls. The braces can be lengthened as the boy grows by replacing the strips of web- bing by new and longer pieces. It is a simpler matter to do this than to increase the length of the knitting. 2. KNITTED CASE FOR CHILD'S COLOURED BALL. Second Exercise in Knitting Two Together and Making a Stitch (First Method). Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1£ oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton of two contrasting colours. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 2£d. Instructions. — The ball is suitable for " Community " work, several children knitting a section each in order to make up one ball. The cover is made up of eight similar sections, four in one shade, and four in another, each of which is knitted as follows : — Shaped Section. Cast on 2 stitches. Knit 1 row plain. 2nd Row. — Slip 1, and knit twice into the next stitch. (See first method of increasing, described in General Instructions.) There are now 3 stitches on the needle. Knit 2 rows plain. 5th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 1, producing -1 st. on the needle. Knit 2 rows plain. In the plain rows, always slip the first stitch of each row. 8th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into next stitch, knit 2 again into next stitch, knit last stitch, producing 6 stitches on the needle. Knit 4 rows plain. 13th Row.— Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 2, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 1, producing 8 Stitches on the needle. Knit 6 rows plain. 20^ .Row.— Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 4, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 1, producing 10 stitches on the needle. Knit 9 rows plain. 30th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 6, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 1, producing 12 stitches on the needle. Knit 20 plain rows. STANDARD III. 93 5lst Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, thus reducing the number of stitches to 10. Knit 9 plain rows. 61st Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 4, knit 2 tog., number of stitches to 8. Knit 6 plain rows. 68th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 2, knit 2 tog., number of stitches to 6. Knit 4 plain rows. 73rd Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 2 tog., knit 1, of stitches to 4. Knit 2 plain rows. knit 1, thus reducing the knit 1, thus reducing the thus reducing the number Fig. 81. Knitted Case for Child's Coloured Ball. 76th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit the last stitch, thus reducing the number of stitches to 3. Knit 2 plain rows. 79th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., thus reducing the stitches back again to 2 with which the work was commenced. Knit 1 plain row, and cast off. Circle for Top and Bottom of Ball. Two circular pieces of knitting are required, each of which should be knitted as follows : — Cast on 3 stitches. 1st Row. — Slip 1 (purlwise, so as to produce chain edge), knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 1, thus increasing the number of stitches to 4. Knit 1 plain row. 3rd Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 2 again into the next stitch, Jcnit 1, producing 6 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 plain row. 94 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 5th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 2, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 1, thus producing 8 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 plain row. 7 th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 4, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 1, thus producing 10 stitches on the needle. Knit 3 plain rows. 11th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 4, knit 2 tog., knit 1, thus reducing the number of stitches to 8. Knit 1 plain row. 13th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 2, knit 2 tog., knit 1, thus reducing the number of stitches to 6. Knit 1 plain row. 15th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 2 tog., knit 1, reducing the number of stitches to 4. Knit 1 plain row. 17th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, thus bringing the number of stitches back again to 3, the original number. Cast off. Pull each piece of knitting into a circular shape. Making up. — Oversew together the edges of the sections, leaving open one seam only ; place a light-coloured section alternately with a dark one. Now stuff the cover as tightly as possible with cuttings or rovings of wool, and oversew up the last seam. It will be found that a small hole has been left at the top and bottom of the ball, where the points of the sections meet. Cover these holes by neatly sewing over them the small circular pieces of knitting described above. (See Fig. 81.) 3. BABY GIRL'S KNITTED STAYS. Third Exercise in Knitting Two Together and Making a Stitch (First Method) . Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13. 2 oz. of Milford's White Knitting Cotton, No. 6 (3 threads). The cost of one pair of stays is 3d., as the cotton may be purchased at 3d. for a 2-oz. ball. Tapes for tying. Instructions. — Commence at the centre of the back of the stays, as follows. First Half Back. Cast on 48 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a width of 6 or 6£ in. unstretched. (The stays may readily be made deeper if desired, by casting on more stitches to commence.) Begin to work plain knitting, and continue this until 4 in. has been knitted. (N.B. — The whole of the stays must be knitted with chain edge.) First Armhole. Now work the decreasings for the armhole curve as follows : — 1st Row. — Slip the first stitch in the usual manner, knit two together, and then do plain knitting along the remainder of the needle. 2nd Row. — Knit plain. Repeat the first and second rows of the armhole alternately, until the number of stitches on the needle has been reduced to 36. Finish the decreasings with a row knitted like the first row. Now commence the increasings for the remaining half of the armhole curve as follows : — 1st Row. — Knit plain along the needle until the last two stitches are reached. Knit twice into the stitch before the last (see First Method of Increasing, General Instructions), and then knit the last stitch. STANDARD III. 95 2nd Row. — Knit plain all along the row. Repeat the above two rows alternately, until there are once more 48 stitches on the needle. Front of Stays. Do plain knitting with chain edge until 7 in. has been knitted past, the armhole. Second Armhole. Knit as described under First Armhole. Fig. 82. Baby Girl's Knitted Stays. Second Half Back. Knit as described under the first half'back. 1 ^ Cast off. Shoulder Straps. Knit each shoulder-strap as^follows : Cast on eight stitches, or as many as will give a width of 1 in. unstretched. Knit a strip of plain knitting with chain edge 5£ in. long. Making up. — Oversew the shoulder-straps into position, as shown in Fig. 82. Fasten by means of six tapes each 8 in. long. Sew the tapes on the edge of the right-hand side of the back, and at a distance of 1 in. from the edge on the left side. If greater warmth is desired, line the little stays with flannel. 96 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 4. DOLL'S SCARF KNITTED ON THREE NEEDLES. Casting on and Knitting on Three Needles taught. Materials.— Four Steel Needles— size 15. & oz. of White Shetland Wool, (2-ply), or other fine wool or knitting cotton. Quantity required for class of 50 = 9£ oz. Cost of same at 4s. 8d. per lb. = 2s. 9£d. (For other qualities of 2-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Doll's Scarf Instructions. — Cast on 10 stitches on each of three needles, or as many as will produce doubled knitting 1 J in. in width. After their previous practice in casting on, children will find little difficulty in doing this. (The method of casting on on three needles is fully described in General Instructions.) Instruct them how to draw the third needle tightly up to the first, and let them with their fourth needle commence to work round the stitches on the three needles. Advise the children always to pull the wool tightly in knitting the first stitch of each needle, in order to avoid a line STANDARD III, 97 of slack knitting between the needles. Let them do a circular strip of plain knitting about 11 in. long, and then cast off. Making up. — Gather up the ends of the scarf firmly, and suspend a full tassel from each. (For method of making tassels, see General Instructions.) Instructions for making a full-sized scarf on three needles are given under Standard IV Syllabus. 5. MARBLE BAG (FOR BROTHER). Second Exercise in Casting on and Knitting on Three Needles. Second Method of Making a Stitch taught. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. § oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton. Cost of one bag, the knitting cotton being 2s. per lb. = Id. Fig. 84. Boy's Marble Bag. Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches on each of three needles, or as many as will produce doubled knitting 4 in. in width. Do 4 J in. of plain knitting, taking especial care that the cotton is drawn up tightly between each pair of needles. In the next round the holes are formed, through which draw-strings are passed for closing up the bag. These holes will be produced as follows : — * Knit three stitches, put the wool forward under the point of the right-hand needle, and over it again to the back, thus making a stitch (see General Instruc- tions), knit two stitches together. Repeat from *all the way round. Now do plain knitting again, until another J in. has been worked. Cast off. 7— (8i 5 b) 98 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Making up. — Turn the circular piece of knitting on to the wrong side,. flatten it out, and sew the two bottom edges neatly together where the knitting was first cast on, thus forming a bag. Turn this bag on to the right side. Now make two plaits or crocheted chains of knitting cotton, each 14 in. long. Thread a bodkin with one of the plaits, pass it through all the holes, and then join the two ends neatly together. Do exactly the same with the second plait, joining its ends at the oppo- site side of the work. Two plaited handles now project, one from each side of the bag. It will be found that when these are pulled simultaneously, the bag closes up in an efficient manner. 6. LUNCH BAG FOR CHILD'S OWN USE. Knit Two and Purl Two on Three Needles introduced for Border of Bag. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. J% oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton. Quantity required for class of 50 = 1 lb. 6 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 2s. 9d. Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches on each of three needles, or as many as will produce doubled knitting 4 in. in width. The number of stitches chosen must be Fig. 85. Lunch Bag for Child's Own Use. STANDARD III. 99 divisible by 4. Do 3 in. of plain knitting. Change to ribbed knittinglof knit 2 purl 2, and continue this for 1J in. Cast off. This ribbed knitting forms k suitable border for the bag. Making up. — Place the knitting in a flat position to form a bag, and! sew to- gether the two bottom edges where the stitches were first cast on. Make q. plaited or crocheted chain, about 36 in. in length to suspend the bag round the; child's neck. Sew an end of this to each top corner of the bag. The ends should be attached to the inside of the bag. 7. DOLL'S MUFF. Second Exercise in Knit Two Purl Two on Three Needles. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 15. J oz. 3-ply wool. Cost of sariie at 3s. lid. per lb. = fd. (For other qualities of 3-ply wool, see under Woolcraft,.) Fig. 86. Doll's Muff. Instructions. — Cast on 48 stitches, that is, 16 on each of three needles. Work ■2 in. of ribbed knitting of knit 2 purl 2. Cast off loosely. Making up. — The muff may be padded with cotton wool, and a sateen lining :sewn in, or it may be left unlined. (Directions for padding and lining a muff are given under the Standard V Syllabus.) Draw the ends of the muff up slightly by means of a gathering thread. Make a plaited or crocheted chain of wool to form a neck cord, and add tassels at the sides of the muff for decoration, as shown in Fig. 86. (The method of making the tassels is given under General Instructions.) Instructions for making a child's muff in a more difficult pattern are given under ■the Standard V Syllabus. 100 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. KNITTED CUFFS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. REViiior/ Exercise in Knit Two Purl Two on Three Needles. Materials.— Four Steel Needles— size 14. J oz. of 4-ply wool will make a pair of cliffs. [ Cost of same at 3s. 1 Id. per lb. = 1 Jd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool. see Aindifir Woolcraft.) Fig. 87. Knitted Cuff for Child's Own Wear. Instructions. — Cast on 52 stitches, putting 16 on each of two needles, and 20 on- one. Knit 4 in. of ribbing, knit 2 purl 2, and cast off loosely. For casting off, employ the second method described under General Instructions. Knit the second- cuff in the same manner. 9(A). DOLL'S PETTICOAT, KNITTED IN STRIPS. Method of Making a Stitch at the Commencement of a Row, and Practice- in Knitting Two Together. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. Two Steel Needles — size 16. J oz. of any 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 2s. 8d. per lb. = ljd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The petticoat consists of eight strips, each of which is knitted as- follows : Cast on 9 stitches with the bone needles, or as many as will give a width of 1J in. Put the right-hand needle under the wool before placing it in the first stitch. This has the result of making a stitch at the commencement of the row. (See General Instructions on Increasings.) Knit 3 stitches, knit 2 stitches together,. STANDARD III. 101 knit 4 stitches. This completes the row. There will still be 9 stitches on the needle. Repeat this row until 4| in. has been knitted. Now slip the stitches on to No. 16 knitting-needles, and change to plain knit- ting ; there will be now no making of stitches or knitting two together. Slip the first stitch of each row. The change to fine needles will shape the petticoat, so that it is less full at the waist. Do 1 in. of this plain knitting on steel needles, and then cast off. Fig. 88. Doll's Petticoat Knitted in Strips. Making up. — Sew together the eight strips, leaving one seam open for 2 in. down the centre of the back to form the placket-hole. The petticoat may be attached to a bodice, or may be drawn up at the waist by a runner. If it is to be drawn up without a bodice, crochet the following chain edge round the top, through which a runner may be passed : 1 double crochet into a stitch, * chain 1, miss a stitch, and double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat from * right round the waist of the petticoat. Pass through the small loops formed, a runner of ribbon, tape, or crocheted chain. If a chain is employed, attach a woollen pompom to each end. Round the scallops at the bottom of the petticoat work the following edging : * 1 double crochet into a stitch, miss a stitch, 3 treble into next stitch, miss a stitch. Repeat from * all round the scallops. N.B. — The crochet borders may be done by a girl in a higher standard. 102 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 9(b). INSTRUCTIONS FOR KNITTING A PETTICOAT IN STRIPS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 6. Two Steel Needles — size 15. About 14 oz. of 4-ply wool. Instructions. — The petticoat here described will fit a child of 9 or 10 years. By decreasing or increasing the width or length of the strips, the petticoat may be altered to fit a child or adult of any build or height. It consists of about 14 strips, each of which is knitted as follows : Cast on 21 stitches with the bone needles. Make a stitch at the commencement of the row, as described under " Doll's Petticoat " above. Knit 9 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 10 stitches. Counting the stitch made at the beginning, there will still be 21 stitches on the needle. Repeat this row until a sufficient length has been knitted to reach from the hem of the girl's skirt to within 3 in. of her waist. (15 in. will be an average length for a girl of 9 or 10 years.) Now slip the stitches on to size 15 steel needles, and change to plain knitting, slipping the first stitch at the commencement of each row. Do 3 in. of knitting on the steel needles and cast off. N.B. — It may be found that less or more than 14 strips are required, according to the slimness of the girl to be fitted. This should be ascertained by measuring her as the work proceeds. Making up. — Sew together the strips, leaving one seam open for 6 in. down the centre of the back to form the placket-hole. Attach the petticoat to a bodice made of flannel or flannelette. As a petticoat of this description wears for a long time, it is better to have a bodice that can be replaced by a larger one as the child grows than a knitted one which is difficult to replace. Work the same crocheted edging round the scallops at the bottom as the one described under " Doll's Petticoat." io. KNITTED TEA-COSY. Method of Joining Wool taught. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. Double Berlin Wool of five shades. 5 oz. will make two Tea-Cosies. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. 5d. Instructions. — For the tea-cosy shown in the illustration, five shades of blue wool, ranging from navy to pale blue, were employed. The cosy is made in two halves, each of which is knitted as follows : Cast on 36 stitches in the darkest shade of wool, or as many as will give a width of 8 in. without stretching. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 3. 1st Row. — * Knit 2 purl 1. Repeat from * all along the row. 2nd Row. — Knit plain. Slip the commencing stitch of every row after the first. Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until 1J in. has been knitted in the darkest shade. Break off the wool. Join on now with wool one shade lighter than that first employed. (See General Instructions.) Knit 1J in. as before. Break off. Work 1J in. in a similar manner with each of the next two shades of wool. Four shades of wool have now been employed. Join on the palest shade of wool and knit J in. of the pattern, finishing with STANDARD III. 103 a row of knit 2 purl 1. Then, instead of doing plain knitting for the next row, work as follows : Slip 1, make 1 (see second method of increasing, General Instructions), knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. Repeat from * to the end of the row. This will produce a row of holes, through which a woollen chain will afterwards be passed to draw up the top of the cosy. Change back to the pattern, and continue this till 1J in. has been worked in the palest shade of the wool. Cast off loosely. If desired, a lining of plain knitting may be made for each half of the cosy. Fis. 89. Knitted Tea-Cosy. If this is done, sew the knitted lining neatly to each half of the cosy before it is made up. Making up. — Place the two halves of the cosy facing each other. Sew up the side seams for \\ in. from the bottom and 1 in. from the top, leaving the spaces between unjoined, for the spout and handle of the pot. Decorate the top edge of the cosy with the following simple crochet chain : 1 double crochet into a stitch, * 5 chain, miss 2 stitches, 1 double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat from * all round the top. Employ the darkest shade of wool for this edging, as it will form a pleasing contrast to the pale shade. Make a crocheted woollen chain about 22 in. long (also of the darkest shade of wool), pass it through the holes formed for the purpose, and draw the cosy up 104 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. at the top. Attach full pompoms to the ends of the chain, and tie these ends in a bow. If preferred, the cosy may be drawn up with ribbon. N. B. — The cosy described above will fit a teapot holding from 1 \ pt=. to 1 qt. If a larger size is required, cast on more stitches, selecting a number which is a multiple of 3. The most satisfactory way is to let the children measure the size of the pot for which the cosy is required, and to cast on the number of stitches necessary to fit the pot. II. DOLL'S JERSEY ON THREE NEEDLES. Two Varieties of Ribbed Knitting employed in Making Article of more Difficult Construction. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. 1J oz. of any 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 2s. 8d. per lb. = 2£d. (For other qualities of wool, see Woolcraft.) Doll's Jersey Knitted on Three Needles. Instructions. — Body of Jersey. Cast on 84 stitches, that is, 28 on each of three needles, or as many as will give doubled knitting (ribbed) 3£ in. in width unstretched. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 4. Do about J in. of ribbed knitting, knit 2 purl 2. This will form the turned-up border at the bottom of the jersey. Change now to ribbing of knit 1 purl 1, and knit 4 in. of this pattern. The base of the armholes has now been reached, and the stitches must be arranged on two needles STANDARD III. 105 instead of three. Place 42 stitches on each, so that the knitting for the front of the jersey may be worked on one needle, and the knitting for the back on the second needle. Leave the 42 stitches on the back needle for a time, or pass them on to a piece of wool, and knit backwards and forwards on the front needle in the knit 1 purl 1 pattern, until 1 J in. has been knitted in this way. Now cast off 1 1 stitches at the commencement of the row, and then do knit 1 purl 1 to the end of the needle. At the commencement of the next row, again cast off 11 stitches, thus leaving 20 stitches not cast off in the centre of the pin. Now change the pattern to knit 2 purl 2 for the neckband of the jersey. Do about half-an-inch of knitting on these 20 stitches, and then cast off. Now join the wool on again at the commencement of the 42 stitches left on the needle for the back. Knit the back of the jersey from the armhole upwards, exactly as was described for the front. After completing the ribbing for the neckband, cast off. Sleeves. Knit each sleeve as follows : Cast on 28 stitches, that is, 8 on each of two needles and 12 on one. Do ribbing of knit 2 purl 2 for about £ in., to form the turned-up cuff at the wrist. Change to the knit 1 purl 1 ribbing, work 3J in. in this pattern, and cast off loosely. Making up. — Turn the jersey on to the wrong side, and sew up one shoulder seam, and the seam at one side of the neckband. The shoulder and neck opening at the opposite side will be left open, so that the jersey may be easily slipped over the doll's head. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and turn the jersey on to the right side. Sew on small woollen loops and pearl buttons for the fastening of shoulder and neck, or fasten with press-studs. 12. DOLL'S HAT. Knit One Purl Two, and Knit Two Purl One taught for Pattern of Hat. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. f oz. of any 4-ply wool. If wool at 3s. lid. per lb. be employed, the cost of one hat will be about 2d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 91. Doll's Hat. 106 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — Brim of Hat. Cast on 72 stitches, that is, 24 on each of three needles, or as many as will produce knitting measuring 8 in. round without stretching. Knit 10 rounds of ribbing of knit 2 purl 1, This completes the brim. (An alternative and easier pattern is ribbing of k. 1, p. 1. The number of stitches chosen must be divisible by 3 or by 2, according to pattern selected.) Fold. Knit 4 rounds of plain knitting to form a natural fold. Crown of Hat. Change to ribbing of knit 1 purl 2, and work 2\ in. in this pattern. (If, how- ever, k. 1, p. 1 has been employed in knitting brim, use it also for crown of hat.) Cast off loosely, employing the second method described under General Instructions. Making up. — Turn the work on to the wrong side and flatten it to form a bag shape. Sew together the open ends where the casting-off was done. Turn the bag on to the right side, and fold back the brim. Now take each top corner of the hat in turn, and sew it down on to the brim. Fix a woollen pompom on each of the sewn-down comers, to form a prettv finish to the hat. 13. KNITTED HAT FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. Same Pattern Employed as in Preceding Exercise, but on Larger Scale, and on Two Needles. Fig. 92. Hat for Child's Own Wear. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. 1} oz. 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. is about 6d. Two Pearl Buttons. Instructions. — This hat will fit a child of 9 or 10 years of age. It is knitted in STANDARD III. 107 a long strip, commencing with the double fold for the front brim, and finishing with the double fold for the back brim. Double Fold for Front Brim. Cast on 66 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a width of 10J in. without stretching. The exact width necessary should be determined by measuring round the head of the intended wearer. The number chosen should be divisible by 3 or 2, according to pattern selected. 1st Row. — * Knit 1 purl 2. Repeat from * to the end of the row. An alternative and easier pattern is ribbing of k. 1, p. 1. 2nd Row. — * Knit 2 purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Repeat these two rows alternately six times more, slipping the commencing stitch of each row. This will make 14 rows in all, and will complete the under part of the front brim. This under part should be about 1£ in. in depth. Knit 4 plain rows to form a natural fold between the under and upper part of the brim. Com- mence again to work the first and second rows alternately, and do 18 rows to form the upper part of the brim, or as many rows as will measure If- in. in depth. Knit 4 more plain rows, to form another natural fold between the brim and crown of hat. Crown of Hat. 1st Row. — * Knit 2 purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. If, however, k. 1, p. 1 has been employed in knitting the brim, use it also for the crown of the hat. 2nd Row. — * Knit 1 purl 2. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Repeat these two rows alternately until 12 in. has been knitted for the crown of the hat. The last row for the crown should be knit 1 purl 2. Knit 4 plain rows, to form a natural fold between the crown and the back brim. Double Fold for Back Brim. 1st Row. — * Knit 1 purl 2. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd Row. — * Knit 2 purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Continue to knit these two rows alternately, until 18 rows, or If in., have been knitted. Knit 4 plain rows for the fold. Commence again to work the first and second rows alternately, and do 14 rows, or 1£ in., to form the under part of the back brim. Cast off loosely. Making up. — Double the strip, so that the knit 1 purl 2 side of the crown is outermost. Sew up the two side seams neatly. Fold the brim into position all round the hat. Now take each top corner of the hat in turn, and sew it down on to the brim. Fix a large pearl button on to each of the sewn-down corners. Buttons covered with a small square of plain knitting may be employed if preferred. N.B. — The hat described above will fit a girl of 8, 9, or 10 years. It will not tea difficult matter for any individual girl to vary the number of stitches and the measurements to suit her own purpose. She may thus make a hat of the same pattern to fit a younger or an older child, as may be required. 108 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 14. TIE KNITTED IN SPIDER PATTERN. New Ornamental Stitch taught. Materials.— Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1 Ball of " Coton Perle " D.M.C., size 5. Cost of same = 2d. Fig. 93. Tie Knitted in Spider Pattern. Instructions. — The children will enjoy knitting this tie as a present for some friend or relation. Long End of Tie. Cast on 12 stitches. 1st Row. — Knit the first stitch in the ordinary manner. Insert the needle in the second stitch, put the cotton once round the points of both needles, and then place it round the right-hand needle in the usual manner, and knit the stitch ; draw the loop through the cotton that was placed round the two needles as well as through the stitch. (See Fig. 94.) This is known as " Spider Stitch." Repeat this all along the needle till the last stitch is reached. Knit this last stitch plain. STANDARD III. 10& 2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch, and then knit plain all along the row. 3rd Row. — Slip the first stitch, and do spider stitch all along the row until the last stitch is reached. Knit this stitch plain. Repeat the second and third rows alternately, until 15 in. has been knitted. Fig. 94. Method of Working Spider Pattern for Tie. Narrow Portion for Neck. Narrow as follows for the part to be slipped under the collar : Slip the first stitch, knit 1, knit 2 tog. four times, knit 2. This reduces the stitches to eight. Proceed with the pattern as before, until 11 in. of the narrower strip has been knitted. Short End of Tie. Widen for the second end of the tie as follows : Slip 1, knit 2, raise a stitch (by taking a loop from the row below and knitting it ; see General Instructions oil Increasings), knit 1, raise a stitch, knit 1, raise a stitch, knit 1, raise a stitch, knit 2. There will now be 12 stitches on the needle, as at the beginning. Proceed with the pattern as before, until another 13 in. has been knitted for the second end of the tie. Cast off. N.B. — The best dimensions for a man's tie are as follows : Long end, 12. in ;. narrow neck portion, 16 in. ; short end, 8 in. 110 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. IS (A). DOLL'S CROCHETED BONNET. Treble Stitch taught. Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. J oz. of 4-ply wool. Quantity required for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s 6 jd. (For cheaper qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) ■->B 4 l'... -2\ -> p < 7 i Fig. 95. Doll's Crocheted Bonnet. Instructions. — The accompanying diagram shows the shape of the crochet before the bonnet is made up. Portion to Fit round Top and Sides of Head. Commence by making a loose chain of 30, or as many as will measure 7 in. in length. (G to H.) Is/ Row. — Commencing with the third chain from the hook, work 1 treble into each of the following chain stitches all along the row. (For method of working " Trebles," see General Instructions.) Make 3 chain and turn. 2nd Row. — Work 1 treble into each stitch of the previous row, taking up the back thread only, in order to produce the ribbed effect seen in Fig. 96. Make 3 chain and turn. Repeat the first and second rows until 3 in. has been worked. Break off the wool. Back of Bonnet. 1st Row. — Join on the wool again at a distance of 2\ in. along the row, that is, at the point E. Make 3 chain to form a treble, and then work 1 treble into each of the next eight stitches, or as many as will measure about 2 in. Leave the remaining stitches from B to C untouched, and turn with 3 chain. 2nd Row. — Work 1 treble into the top of each of the 9 treble of the previous row, taking up the back thread only as before. STANDARD III. Ill Repeat these two rows until 1\ in. of the narrower width has been worked. Break off the wool, and neatly darn in all ends. Making up. — Turn down the rectangular flap which forms the back of the bonnet, and sew AB to CB, and DE to FE. Turn the bonnet on to the right side. Fig. 96. Doll's Crocheted Bonnet. Decorate the front edge of the bonnet with the following border : Join on the wool, * make 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, and work a double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat from * right along the edge. Fold back from the front of the bonnet a flap \ in. in depth to form the turned-back fold shown in the illustration. 15(B). FULL-SIZED BONNET FOR CHILD OF EIGHT OR NINE YEARS OLD. 2 oz. 4-ply wool. Cost at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 7d. Instructions. — Work in a similar manner to the Doll's Bonnet, but observe the following dimensions — Length of chain, GH, about 15 in. ; width of portion to fit round sides and top of head and to form flap, i.e., the distance GC, about 7 in. ; distance FE, about 5£ in. ; distance EB, about 4 in. ; distance BC, about 5£ in. ; depth of back of bonnet, i.e., distance BA, about 5£ in. Whenever possible, measure the head of the child for whose wear the hat is intended, and determine the measurements accordingly. The full-sized bonnet is a sufficiently difficult exercise for Standard IV children. 112 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 16(A). DOLL'S CROCHETED PETTICOAT. Second Exercise in Treble Stitch. Simple Border Pattern taught. Materials.— Coarse Bone Crochet Hook, f oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 2s. 3d. per lb. = ljd. (For better qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 97. Doll's Crocheted Petticoat. Instructions. — Make a loose chain of 21, or as many as will measure about 5 in. in length. 1st Row. — Commencing with the second chain from the hook, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain. Change now to treble stitch, and work 1 treble into each of the remaining chain stitches along the row. 2nd Row. — Turn with 3 chain, and work 1 treble into each stitch of the previous row, until the last 4 stitches are reached. Into each of these work 1 double crochet. The working of the d.c.'s in the last 4 stitches will have the effect of narrowing the work at one end to form the waist. (In the case of each treble and double crochet, take up both the back and front threads of the previous row.) 3rd Row. — Turn with 1 chain, and work 1 double crochet into each of the first 4 stitches ; then work 1 treble into each remaining stitch along the row. STANDARD III. 113 Repeat the second and third rows alternately until the waist measurement, (i.e., the length of the end where the double crochet has been worked), is 8 in. Making up. — Fold the work in halves, and sew together the back seam for a distance of 3 J in. from the bottom, leaving open 1£ in. at the top for the placket- hole. Turn the work on to the right side. Work the following simple border round the bottom — Make 1 double crochet in a stitch, * miss a stitch, 4 treble into the next stitch, 1 double crochet into next stitch. Repeat from * all the way round. If the border seems too full, occasionally miss a stitch between the 4 treble and the double crochet immediately following. 16 (B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED CROCHETED PETTICOAT TO FIT A CHILD OF TEN OR ELEVEN YEARS. Materials. — About 14 oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 2s. 8d. per lb. = 2s. 4d. Instructions. — Work as described under Doll's Petticoat, with the following alterations in dimensions : — Let the commencing chain be about 21 in. long. (The exact length required must be ascertained by measuring the girl for whom the petticoat is intended.) To form the waistband, work double crochet for a distance of 3| in. down instead of for 4 stitches only as described under Doll's Petticoat ; and, when working to- wards the top of the garment, finish the last 3^ in. by double crochet for the waist- band. Continue the pattern until the waist measure is about 24 in. in length. (Again measure the intended wearer to ascertain the exact size required.) Making up. — Sew up the back seam, leaving open 7 in. at the top for the placket-hole. Turn the work on to the right side. Work a crocheted border round the bottom, as described under Doll's Petticoat. The making of a full-sized petticoat is an exercise sufficiently difficult for Standard V children. 17. CROCHETED CUFFS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. Third Exercise in Treble Stitch. Materials. — A medium Bone Crochet Hook. £ oz. of 4-ply wool for the pair. Cost, if wool at 3s. lid. per lb. is employed = l£d. per pair. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — Make a chain of 24 loops, or 4 in. long. 1st Row. — Make 1 extra chain to turn with. Work 1 d.c. into each of the 24 chain. 2nd Row. — Turn with 3 chain. Work 1 treble on each d.c. of the previous row. Repeat the above two rows 10 times more, or until 6 in. of crochet has been worked to go round the wrist. Break the wool off, leaving a sufficient length for the pur- pose of joining the cuff, and draw the last loop through. Sew the commencing 8— (815B) 114 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. row and the finishing row of the cuff together with the end of wool left, making the join on the wrong side of the work. Border. Commence at one end of the joining seam and proceed as follows : 1 d.c. into the end of the seam ; * chain 5, miss the end of the row of trebles, and work 1 d.c. Fig. 98. Crocheted Cuffs for Child's Own Wear. into the end of the first row of double crochet. Repeat from * all round the end of the cuff until the seam is reached. Finish off both the commencing and finish- ing ends of the wool by darning them neatly down the wrong side of the seam. Work a similar border round the other end of the cuff. 18. CROCHETED HAIR-BAND FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. Harder Revision Exercise in Double Crochet. Materials. — Coarse Steel Crochet Hook — about size 2. Silkie," medium size, or fine Knitting Cotton. One ball of and will make three hair-bands. i of a ball of " O-So- O-So-Silkie " costs 2d., Instructions. — Crochet a loose chain long enough to fit over the top of the girl's head. The number of chain made for the hair-band shown in the photograph was 60, and the length was 1 1 in. * Work double crochet into each stitch of the chain, STANDARD III. 115 except the first. Turn with 1 chain, and repeat from *. Work 7 rows of double crochet in all. Cut the thread, draw the end through, and fasten off securely. Making up. — Decorate each end of the hair-band with a rosette of narrow ribbon. Elastic of the length required to fit under the child's hair should be sewn to the ends of the hair-band. Fig. 99. Crocheted Hair-band for Girl's Own Wear. STANDARD IV. i. TRIANGULAR HEAD-WRAP. Revision of Spider Stitch in Article of more Difficult Construction. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. 2£ oz. of Andalusian Wool. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 9d. (For other varieties of Andalusian Wool, see Woolcraft.) Fig. 100. Triangular Head-Wrap. 116 STANDARD IV. 117 Instructions. — First Half of Shawl. Commence at the point, by casting on 3 stitches. Is* Row. — Make a stitch at the commencement of the row, by putting the needle under the wool before knitting. (See Fifth Method of Increasing, General Instructions.) Knit the first stitch, and then work spider stitch into all the remaining stitches. A full description of this stitch is given under " Knitted Tie in Spider Stitch " in Standard III Syllabus. (See p. 108.) 2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch, and work spider stitch into all the remaining stitches. Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until there are 56 stitches on the needle. Then, instead of making a stitch at the commencement of every other row, work 3 rows like the second row between the widening rows, instead of 1 row. This will have the effect of making the widening more gradual, and will ensure a better fit round the front part of the head. Continue to widen at the com- mencement of every fourth row, until there are 62 stitches on the needle. Knit two rows without widening or narrowing. Second Half of Shawl. Now commence to narrow for the second half of the shawl as follows : — Is* Row. — Slip the first stitch, work spider stitch all along the row, and knit the last two stitches together. In knitting the latter, put the wool over twice as usual to form a spider stitch. (The two stitches knitted together must be at the same end of the needle at which the increasings were made in the first half of the wrap.) 2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch, and work spider stitch in all the remaining stitches. 3rd and 4th Rows. — Like the second row. Repeat rows 1 to 4 until there are 56 stitches on the needle. Change now, and decrease more rapidly by repeating the first and second rows only, alternately, omitting the third and fourth rows. Continue to decrease thus at the end of every other needle, until only three stitches remain on the needle Cast off. Crocheted Border. If the border here described proves too difficult for Standard IV children, have it worked by Standard V or VI girls, or substitute one of the simpler borders previously given. 1st Row of Border. — * Work 1 double crochet into a stitch at the end of a row, and 5 treble into the stitch at the end of the next row. Repeat from * all round the shawl. Make the border rather full round the two points at the ends of the shawl. 2nd Row of Border. — Work 1 double crochet into the stitch between the first double crochet and the first treble of the row of the border which has just been completed. * Miss 2 stitches, work 7 tr. into the next stitch, miss 2 stitches, 1 double crochet into next stitch. Repeat from * all the way round. (The clusters of 7 trebles will thus be over the centre of the 5 trebles in the first row of the border.) 118 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 2. BABY'S FIRST VEST. Revision of Increasings and Decreasings for the Shaping of the Neck. Materials. — Two Bone Knitting-needles — size 11. 2£ oz. of Andalusian Wool. 1 yd. of narrow Ribbon or Tape. Cost, employing wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 8d. (For other suitable wools and their prices, see under Woolcrafi.) Fig. 101. Baby's First Vest. Instructions. — The work is commenced at the open edge of the right front, and continued round until the left front is completed. Cast on 56' stitches, or as many as will produce knitting measuring 8 in. in length, unstretched. Right Front. 1st and 2nd Rows. — Knit plain. 3rd and 4th Rows. — Purl. 5th and Qth Rows.— Plain. In the fifth row make the first increasing for the neck slope thus : Slip the first stitch, make a stitch (First Method, General Instructions) ; knit the remainder of the row as usual. 1th and 8th Rows. — Purl. •dthand 10th Rows.— Plain. Increase again in the ninth row, in the same way as in the fifth row. It will now be seen that knitting two plain rows and two purl rows alternately produces a ribbed effect. Continue this ribbing throughout the garment. iQ+i? ^iS Ue t0 increase b y making one stitch in every fourth row (i.e., in the ldtn, 17th, 21st, 25th, etc.), until there are 68 stitches on the needle, or until the STANDARD IV. 119 knitting measures 9 in. along the row. The straight piece for the shoulder section is now commenced. Discontinue the increasings, and proceed with the ribbing in the ordinary way until the knitting measures 5£ in. in width from the com- mencement. (In the vest shown in Fig. 101, 18 double ribs are worked for the front.) Armhole. Form this as follows : Cast off 30 stitches (or as many as give a length of 3£ in.) at the top of the vest, and knit the remaining 38 stitches of the row. Knit back along these stitches, and then cast on 30 new stitches to take the place of those cast off, so that the total number of stitches on the needle, in readiness for knitting the back, remains unaltered. Back. Work a perfectly straight piece of knitting 7| in. wide, or consisting of about 24 double ribs. Cast off to form the armhole as before, and then cast on a corresponding number of stitches to take the place of those removed. Left Front. Work a straight portion equal in width to the straight section of the right front. Then commence to decrease for the neck slope as follows : Commencing at the top end of a plain row, slip the first stitch, knit 2 tog., knit the remainder of the row plain. Decrease in the same way at the beginning of one row in every four, until the number of stitches on the needle is the same as that at first cast on. The right front should now be equal in width to the left front. Cast off, using the second method, General Instructions. Sleeves. Each sleeve is knitted as follows : Cast on 50 stitches, or as many as will pro- duce knitting measuring 7 in. in length. Work a piece of ribbing (knit 2 rows, and purl 2 rows), 6 in. wide, or consisting of about 20 double ribs. Cast off by the second method, General Instructions. Making up. — Turn the vest to the wrong side, and join the straight shoulder portion of each front to the corresponding part of the back, leaving the middle portion of the top of the back to form part of the neck opening. Join up each sleeve by means of a seam worked on the wrong side. Then insert each sleeve in an armhole, placing the sleeve seam to the under arm seam, and sew it in on the wrong side of the garment. Crocheted Edging. Commence at one end of the bottom of the vest and proceed as follows : — Is* Row. — 1 d.c. into the end of the first plain knitted rib, * 1 ch., 1 d.c. into the end of the next plain knitted rib ; repeat from * all round the vest until the starting-point is reached again. (In working along the edge of each front the distance from one d.c. to the next must be judged by the worker, as there will be no ribs to serve as a guide.) 2nd Row. — 1 d.c. into the first chain of the previous row, * 4 chain, 1 d.c. into next chain ; repeat from * all round the vest. When the starting-point is reached again, break off the wool, draw it through, and fasten it off neatly. Work a similar edging round the bottom of each sleeve, drawing in the sleeve slightly, while so doing. Method of Fastening. Lap the left front over the right to produce a double-breasted effect. Attach ribbons or tapes (as shown in the photograph) to secure the fronts in position. 120 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 3. CHILD'S VEST. New Pattern of Knitting taught. Larger Number of Stitches on Needle employed. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. 3£ oz. of Vest Wool, or other suitable 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. OJd. Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. Fig. 102. Child's Vest. STANDARD IV. 121 Instructions. — The vest described here will fit a child of three years. If coarser needles are employed, and the length increased, it can be made to fit a much older child. Each half of the vest is knitted separately, and in the following manner : — Cast on 72 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a width of 8 \ in. without stretching. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 4. Work 1 in. of ribbing of knit 1 purl 1 for the border of the vest. After the first row, always slip the commencing stitch of each row. Change now to the following pattern : — 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Rows. — * Knit 2 purl 2. Repeat from * to the end of the row. (For method of counting rows, see General Instructions.) 4th Row. — Knit plain. Repeat rows 1 to 4 until 12 in. of this pattern has been knitted. Now cast off all the stitches except 14 at the end of the row. The casting-off should be very loosely done, as the vest is made to slip over the child's head. Knit 4£ in. of plain knitting on these 14 stitches to form a shoulder-strap for one side of the vest. Cast off. This completes one-half of the vest. Making up. — Place one half of the vest upon the other half, so that one shoulder- strap is at the right-hand side of the work, and the other at the left. Sew up the side seams, starting from the bottom. Leave 2 in. of the ribbed pattern unsewn at the top of each side seam, to form part of the armhole. Sew the shoulder- straps into position, carrying the strap attached to the front half of the work to the back, and the strap from the back to the front. The following border may be pat round the neck and armholes to form a decorative finish, and to afford a means of drawing the neck up closely after the vest has been slipped on : — 1st Row. — Work 1 treble into a stitch, * 1 chain, miss a stitch, 1 treble into the next stitch. Repeat from * right round the neck and armholes, doing trebles with 1 chain between in alternate stitches. 2nd Row. — Make picots all round the first border as follows : 1 double crochet into a stitch, * chain 3, go back and make a double crochet into the first of the 3 chain, miss a stitch, and secure picot by a double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat from * all round the border. N.B. — If the border seems too full, occasionally miss two stitches instead of one. For a simpler crochet border than the above, see under " Doll's Crocheted Petticoat," Standard III. Draw up the neck of the vest by running a crocheted chain of wool through the holes formed by the border. Attach small pompoms to the ends of the chain. Ribbon may be employed for this purpose if preferred. 4. STRIPED SILK TIE, OR SPORTS TIE IN CLUB COLOURS. Revision Exercise in Joining Thread. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. Nearly 2 balls of Star Sylko, No. 8, in two contrasting shades. The Star Sylko is 2d. per ball, so that one tie can be made for a cost of 3fd. Instructions. — Long End of Tie. With the light shade of silk, cast on 36 stitches, that is, 12 on each of three needles, or as many as will produce knitting measuring 3 in. round. The number of stitches chosen must be divisible by 2. 1st Round. — Knit plain. 122 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 2nd Round.— Knit 1 purl 1 all the way round. Repeat the first and second rounds alternately until f in. has been knitted. Finish with a knit 1 purl 1 round. Knit 4 stitches of the first needle, break off the thread and join on with the dark shade, working about 4 stitches with the double thread. (See General Instructions.) Continue the pattern described above in the dark shade, until \ in. of this has been knitted. Finish as before with a knit 1 purl 1 round. Knit 4 stitches of Fig. 103. Striped Silk Tie. the first needle, break off the thread and join on with the light shade. Continue to knit alternately in this way £ in. in the light shade and \ in. in the dark, until a length of 12 in. has been knitted. Neck Portion of Tie. Now decrease as follows in each needle for the part which goes round the neck : Knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog. There will now be 8 stitches on each needle. Knit 16 in. for the neck portion in alternate light and dark shades as before. STANDARD IV. 123 Short End of Tie. Now increase as follows in each needle for the short end of the tie : Knit 1, knit 2 into the next stitch (see General Instructions on Increasings), knit 1, knit 2 into next stitch, knit 1, knit 2 into next stitch, knit 1, knit 2 into next stitch. There will now be 12 stitches on each needle once more. Knit 8 in. for the short end of the tie in alternate light and dark shades. Cast off, and sew the open ends of the tie neatly together. N.B. — The dimensions given above are suitable for a man's tie. Modify the lengths given to suit the purpose for which the tie is to be used. 5. BABY'S BELT. Larger Number of Stitches on Three Needles employed. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 12. 1 oz. of Andalusian Wool. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d> per lb. = 3£d. (For other varieties of Andalusian Wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 104. Baby's Belt. Instructions. — Cast on 40 stitches on each of three needles, or as many as will produce knitting measuring 13 in. round. The number of stitches chosen must be divisible by 2. Employ second method of casting on. Work ribbed knitting, knit 1 purl 1, for 1J in. for the bottom border of the belt. Change to plain knitting, and knit 4 in. Change to ribbed knitting, knit 1 purl 1, and again knit 1J in. thus, for the top border. Cast off, employing the second method given. N. B. — A body-belt for an adult may be knitted in a similar manner, by casting on more stitches to commence, and increasing the above measurements [in proportion. 124 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 6. KNITTED SCARF. New Pattern of Knitting on Three Needles taught. Materials.— Four Bone Needles— size 9. 3£ oz. of Shetland Wool. Cost of same at 4s. 8d. per lb. = Is. OJd. (For other qualities of 2-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 105. Knitted Scarf. Instructions. — The following exercise may be made much easier by employing wool of a coarser texture than Shetland. If this is done, fewer stitches will be re- quired on each needle. The scarf may be knitted with two needles instead of four, in which case a scarf 1 J yd. long and 9 in. wide may be knitted from 4| oz. of 4-ply wool. STANDARD IV. 125 Cast on 126 stitches, that is, 42 on each of three needles, or some suitable num- ber which must be divisible exactly by six. The number selected should produce knitting measuring about 15 in. round without stretching. Rounds 1 to 6. — * Knit 3 purl 3. Repeat from * all the way round. Rounds 6 to 12. — * Purl 3 knit 3. Repeat from * all the way round. Repeat rounds 1 to 12, reversing the pattern every six rounds, until a scarf about \\ yds. long has been knitted. Cast off. Making up. — Sew up the ends of the tubular scarf, and make a full fringe at each end, as described under General Instructions. If preferred, the ends may be drawn up and full tassels suspended, as in the case of the doll's scarf. 7. SLEEPING SOCK. Increasing at the Begin>"ng and Decreasing at the End of the Needle. taught. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. 1\ oz. of Single Berlin wool or 4-ply wool will knit one pair. Cost of one pair, if wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. is employed =. 9d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under WooTcraft.) €<■-- -3"- _>D |4 ---3"- •V---2.". 4* •-5SB 7" Fig. 106. Foot of Sleeping Sock. 126 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — Fig. 106 shows the shape of the foot opened out flat, before the knitting for the leg is commenced. The sock is joined together up the sole of the foot and the back of the leg. Foot of Sock. Commence at the bottom of the sole along AB as follows : Cast on 42 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 7 in. without stretching. Commence immedi- ately to increase at each end of the work as follows : knit 1, make a stitch by Fig. 107. Sleeping Sock. knitting into the front and back of the second stitch (see General Instructions on Increasings), and then do plain knitting all along the row. Repeat this row seven more times, always slipping the commencing stitch of every row after the first. There will now be 50 stitches on the needle, and the strip will slope outwards at each end, that is, along BD and AC. Now make a stitch at the commencement of alternate rows only. Continue to do this until there are 56 stitches on the needle. The outward slope is thus continued at one end of the work only, viz., along BD. The short slope at the other end, along AC, forms the shape for the heel. STANDARD IV. 127 Slip off now, on to a piece of wool, 24 stitches from the " Heel " end of the needle, that is, along MK. This leaves 32 stitches on the needle. Knit 32 rows of plain knitting, i.e., about 3 in., on these 32 stitches to form the top of the foot. Now cast on 24 more stitches along JL. There will again be 56 stitches on the needle. Knit along this row plain, until three stitches only are left at the end. Then knit 2 together, knit 1. Knit the next row plain. This decreasing at one end will give the slope EF. Continue to decrease in this manner at the ends of alter- nate rows, until the stitches are reduced to 50. Now decrease at the end of every row, thus continuing the long slope EF, and producing the short slope HG. Continue this until there are 42 stitches on the needle. Cast off. Leg of Sock. Take up on the needle the 24 stitches along MK, which were slipped on to the piece of wool. Next take up, on the same needle, the 16 loops along KJ at the ends of the 32 rows which form the top of the foot. Lastly, take up the 24 loops along JL where the 24 stitches were cast on. This produces 64 stitches altogether, and on these the leg is knitted from the foot upwards. Join on the wool, and knit six plain rows, slipping the first stitch of each row. Change to ribbing of knit 1 purl 1, and do 3 in. of this pattern. Knit eight rows of plain knitting. Change again to knit 1 purl 1, and do three more in hes. Knit eight more rows of plain knitting, and cast off. Making up. — Sew together neatly the seam up the sole of the foot and the back of the leg. After the point E has been joined to D, flatten the foot so that the seam is under the centre of it (see Fig. 107), before sewing up the seam at the toe, which is square-shaped. Turn the work on to the right side. (The portion from E to D may be gathered up to form a round toe, if preferred.) 8. LADY'S BEDROOM SLIPPER. New Ornamental Pattern Taught. Materials. — A Bone Crochet Hook — medium size. Two Steel Needles — size 12. 4 oz. Double Fingering or Coat Wool. 1£ yds. ribbon about £ in. wide. A pair of light soles. Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb., and soles at Is. 2d. per pair = 2s. 3d. (For other qualities of thick wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — Cast on 36 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 5 J in. wide without stretching. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 2. 1st Row. — Plain. 2nd Row. — Purl. 3rd Row. — SI. 1,* k. 2 tog., repeat from * until the last stitch is reached ; knit the last stitch. 4th Row. — SI. 1, * pick up the thread between the last and next stitches and knit it, k. 1 ; repeat from * until the last two stitches are reached ; knit the last two stitches. (See enlarged illustration of stitch in Fig. 109.) These four rows really complete the pattern ; but, in order to avoid producing a sloping edge, the great disadvantage in a pattern of this kind, a slight variation is made in the last row of each alternate pattern. Thus : — 8th Row. — SI. 1, * k. 1, pick up the thread between the stitches and knit it ; repeat from * till the last stitch is reached, k. the last stitch. '«& S3 # m-'!'"""!^ • v. :*«-** \ ^ih ■ fTM^^y?*" f&j# 1 w p. 0. en S o o « Q W n Q 00 o o to STANDARD IV. 129 12th Row. — Like 4th row. 16th Row. — Like 8th row. 20th Row. — Like 4th row. Continue working the pattern on this plan until 14 in., or 44 patterns, have been knitted. For the Toe Piece. Cast off the first 12 stitches of the row, i.e., \ of the total width, leaving 24 stitches on the needle. Continue to work the pattern on these 24 stitches 12 times more. Cast off. Fig. 109. Pattern of Bedroom Slipper Enlarged to Show Details. Making up. — (See diagram of Doll's Slipper — Fig. 73.) Sew the inside edge BC of the narrow toe-piece to the edge ED at the end of the work where the knit- ting was commenced. It will be found that, when the join has been made, about 1J in. of the wider rectangle will be left over. This portion corresponds with the 12 stitches cast off on the opposite side of the slipper before knitting the toe-piece. The border thus left is turned down as shown in Fig. 108. Finishing the edge. — Work picots all round the edge of the turn-down border, as follows : d.c. into first stitch of the border, * chain 4, go back into the first of the 4 chain and make a d.c. ; secure the picot by a d.c. into the edge a few stitches along. Repeat from * all round. Drawing wp the slipper. — This pattern produces a series of holes through which ribbon may be passed underneath the turn-down border. A bow may be tied in front. 9— (8l5El 130 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Securing the sole. — Turn the knitted portion on to the wrong side, and sew it on to the upper side of the sole so that the point F will form the toe of the shoe Then turn it up into its proper position. Simpler Pattern for Slipper. An easy slipper of the same dimensions may be made by employing the same number of stitches, and substituting plain knitting for the pattern described above. 9. WOOLLEN BONNET FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. New Pattern taught for Border, and " Heel Back " introduced as an Exercise' Preparatory to Knitting Socks. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 11. If oz. Single Berlin Wool, or 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 6£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The bonnet described below will fit a child of about 10 years. If coarser needles are used, the same number of stitches may be employed to pro- duce a larger bonnet. It will not prove a difficult matter, however, to vary the number of stitches and the dimensions to suit the requirements of individual children. Turned Back Border. Cast on 100 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 15 in. unstretched Knit 4 plain rows, slipping the first stitch of all rows after the first. 5th Row. — Slip the first stitch, * make a stitch (employ Second Method, General Instructions), knit 2 together. Repeat from * to the end of the row, knitting the last stitch plain. Knit 3 plain rows. (For counting of rows, see General Instructions.) 9th Row. — Work in the same manner as the 5th row. Knit 3 plain rows. 13th Row. — The same as the 5th row. Knit 3 plain rows. 17th Row. — The same as the 5th row. Knit 3 plain rows. 21st Row. — The same as the 5th row. This completes the turned-back border. N.B. — A still more ornamental effect may be produced by knitting 1 plain row instead of 3 between the openwork rows. Part to Fit round Head. Knit about 5i in. of plain knitting. (If possible fit the bonnet at this stage on the girl for whom it is being made, in order to ascertain the exact length of plain knitting required.) Turning for Back. 1st Row of Turning. — Knit 35 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 26 stitches, knit 2 together, and turn the work completely round without finishing the pin. (If the number of stitches on the needle has been reduced, decrease these numbers proportionately . ) 2nd Row of Turning. — Slip the first stitch on to the right-hand needle, knit 26 stitches, knit 2 together, and again turn the work completely round. Repeat the 2nd row of turning, until only 28 stitches remain on the needle. Cast off. Making up. — The bonnet shown in the illustration has been decorated with the following crochet border : — 1st Row of Border. — Join on the wool, work 3 chain (to form a tr.), and 1 tr. into a stitch, ch. 2, and work 2 more tr. into the same st., * miss 2 st., 2 tr. into I STANDARD IV. 131 next St., ch. 2, and work 2 more tr. into the same stitch. Repeat from * all round the edge of the bonnet. (If the bonnet has been very tightly knitted, it will be advisable to miss three stitches before repeating the trebles, or the border will be too full.) 2nd Row of Border. — Make picots all round the first border, as follows : 1 double crochet into a stitch, * chain 3, go back and make a double crochet into the first of the 3 chain, miss a stitch, and secure the picot by a double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat from * all round the border. If this seems too full miss two stitches occasionally instead of one. Ribbon may be run through this border and finished with rosettes at the ends, as shown in Fig. 110. This forms a dainty finish to the bonnet. N.B. — A simpler edging, such as that described under Doll's Crocheted Petticoat (St. Ill), may be substituted, if desired. Fig. 110. Woollen Bonnet for Child's Own Wear. 132 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 10. WOOLLEN HAT KNITTED ON THREE NEEDLES. Exercise Preparatory to Knitting the Toe of a Stocking. New Pattern TAUGHT. Materials. — Four Bone Knitting-needles — size 9. One Button-mould about 1 J in. in diameter. 1£ oz. 4-ply knitting wool. Cost, employing wool at 5s. per lb. = 6d. (For other qualities of suitable wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 111. Woollen Hat Knitted on Three Needles. Instructions. — The brim consists of a double fold. The knitting is commenced at the under part of this fold, and finished at the centre of the top of the hat. Cast on 132 st. (or as many as will produce knitting measuring 21 in. round), i.e., 44 on each of three needles. Use the second method given in General Instructions. Under-fold of Brim. 1st Row. — Purl all round. 2nd Row. — * K. 2, p. 2 ; repeat from * all round. Repeat these two rows six times more. This completes the under-fold. 15th Row. — Purl all round. 16th Row. — Knit all round. Repeat the above two rows again. The four rows just completed form a natural fold between the under and upper parts of the brim. Instead of working these four rows, the ribbing may be continued unbroken, if preferred. STANDARD IV. 133 Upper Part of Brim. Work the same pattern as for under part for 18 rounds. To form another natural fold between the brim and the crown, work four more rounds similar to the 15th, 16th, 17th, and 18th rounds. Crown. 1st Row. — * K. 1, p. 1 ; repeat from * all round. 2nd Row. — Plain all round. 3rd Row. — Plain all round. Repeat these three rows until 40 rounds of the crown have been completed. Decreasings. 1st Round. — * K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 16, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round. There will be six pairs of decreasings in the round. The second decreasing of each pair may be done by the " Pulling-over " method. (See General Instructions on Decreasings.) 2nd Round. — Plain. 3rd Round. — * K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. the pattern for 14 st., k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round. 4th Round.— r-Plaia. 5th Round. — * K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 12, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round. 6th Round. — K. 2, p. 1 ; k. 1, p. 1 for 10 st. ; * k. 5 (to cover the section where the decreasings are being made), p. 1 ; k. 1, p. 1 for 10 st. ; repeat from * all round. 7th Round.—* K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 10, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round. 8th Round.— Plain. It will be obvious by this time that the cap is being narrowed off in six sections, and that six ribs of plain knitting separate the sections from one another. Con- tinue to narrow off on the same plan until only 4 stitches remain upon each needle. Then cast off as follows : Break off the wool leaving an end measuring about 10 in. in length. Pass each of the stitches in turn on to this wool by means of knitting each stitch, and then drawing the end of the wool right through. Take the end of wool left through to the wrong side of the cap, and finish it off neatly by means of knitting or darning it in. (See General Instructions on Casting-off from Three Needles.) Covering for Button. This is done in plain knitting. Cast on 5 st. Knit 1 row plain. Make a stitch at the beginning of each succeeding row until there are 16 st. on the needle. (See Fifth Method of Increasing, General Instructions.) Knit 5 rows without further increasings. Now begin to decrease by knitting two together at the beginning of every row. Continue this until only 5 st. remain upon the needle. Cast off. Making and Placing on of Button. In order to hide the wood completely, a thin covering of cotton-wool may be placed over the button-mould before covering it with the knitted circle. Sew the button in the centre of the crown to complete the cap. To Simplify this Hat. It will have been noticed in the above instructions that the chief difficulty is that of keeping the pattern going correctly when stitches are being removed by decreasings. If the teacher wishes to simplify the work, the cap may be knitted 134 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. plain after the completion of the brim. The decreasings will then be carried out as follows — 1st Round.—* K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 16, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round. 2nd Round. — Plain. 3rd Round.—* K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 14, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round. 4th Round. — Plain. 5th Round.—* K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 12, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round. 6th Round. — Plain. Continue the decreasings in this way, i.e., in six gradually narrowing sections, until only 4 st. remain on each needle. Cast off. n. SMALL GIRL'S CROCHETED STAYS. Increasings and Decreasings taught. Materials. — Fine Bone Crochet Hook. 4 oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton. Cost of Stays, if knitting cotton at 2s. per lb. is employed = 6d. Fig. 112. Small Girl's Crocheted Stays. Instructions. — The little stays described below will fit a child of four or five years of age. First Half of Back. Commence at the centre of the back by making a loose chain about 9 in. in length. (The exact depth required should be determined by actual measurement of the child for whom the article is intended.) STANDARD IV. 135 1st Row. — Commence with the second chain from the hook, and work 1 double crochet into each of the remaining chain stitches along the row. Make 1 chain and turn. 2nd Row. — Taking up the back thread only, work 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. Make 1 chain and turn. (N.B. — As it is a rather difficult matter to keep the edges at the top and bottom quite level, it is a good plan to let the children count their stitches each row, to see that the number remains constant.) Repeat the second row until about 4J in. has been worked to form one half-back. Decreasings for Armhole. 1st Row. — Turn with no chain, work 1 double crochet into the second stitch of the previous row, and 1 double crochet into each remaining stitch along the row. Make 1 chain and turn. 2nd Row. — Work 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. Con- tinue to decrease by repeating the first and second rows alternately, until the work has been shortened by 2J in., that is, from 9 in. to 6J in. (The depth of this downward curve may easily be varied to suit individual wearers.) Increasings for Upward Curve of Armhole. 1st Row. — Make 3 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the second and third chains, and then 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. Make 1 chain and turn. 2nd Row. — Work 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. Repeat the first and second rows of the increasings alternately, until the work is again 9 in. in depth. Front of Stays. For the front, work exactly as described under the first half-back, until a dis- tance of about 8£ in. has been worked from the first armhole. (Again determine the exact size required by measurement.) Second Armhole. Work as described under first armhole. Second Half of Back. Work as described under the first half-back. Cut the thread, and fasten off neatly. Shoulder-straps. Work each shoulder-strap as follows : Make a chain about 7 in. in length. 1st Row. — Commence with the second chain from the hook, and work 1 double crochet into each of the remaining chain stitches along the row. Make 1 chain and turn. 2nd Row. — Work 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row, taking up the back thread only. Make 1 chain and turn. Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until the strap is about 1 in. wide. Making up. — Sew the shoulder-straps to the tops of the armholes, as shown in the illustration. Sew on tapes for fastening purposes, as described under Exercise 3, Standard III, " Baby's Knitted Stays." Press-studs, or loops and buttons may be employed, if preferred. 136 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 12. CROCHETED HAIR-BAND FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. Treble Stitch taught. \ "" Materials. — Coarse Steel Crochet Hook — about size 2. £ of a ball of " O-So- Silkie," medium size, or fine Knitting Cotton. One ball of " O-So-Silkie " costs 2d., and will make three Hair-bands. Fig. 113. Crocheted Hair-Band for Child's Own Wear. Instructions. — Crochet a loose chain long enough to fit over the top of the girl's head. The number of chain made for the hair-band shown in the illustration was 60, and the length was 1 1 inches. lst t Row. — Work double crochet into each stitch of the chain except the first, and do 3 chain to turn. 2nd Row. — Do 1 treble into the second stitch, * 1 chain, miss a stitch, 1 treble into the next stitch. Repeat from * all along the row, doing trebles with 1 chain between in alternate stitches. Do 1 chain to turn. 3rd Row. — Work double crochet into every stitch of the chain. 4th Row. — The same as the second row. 5th Row. — The same as the third row. Cut the thread, draw the end through, and fasten off securely. Making up. — Run ribbon through the holes formed by the pattern, and decorate the ends with rosettes. Elastic of the length required to fit under the child's hair should be sewn to the ends of the hair-band. 13. CROCHETED SHAWL (SIMPLE PATTERN). Use of Double Crochet in Making Larger Article. The instructions for this are given under No. 15 (b) of Standard II Syllabus. 14. GIRL'S CROCHETED HAT (SIMPLE PATTERN). Use of Double Crochet in Making a Larger Article for Girl's Own Wear. The instructions for this are given under No. 16 (b) of Standard II Syllabus. 15. GIRL'S CROCHETED BONNET (SIMPLE PATTERN). , Use of Treble Stitch in Making a Larger Article for Girl's Own Wear. The instructions for this are given under No. 15 (b) of Standard III Syllabus. STANDARD V. i. CHILD'S KNITTED STOLE OR MUFFLER. Method of Making Loops taught. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 3 oz. of Single Berlin Wool, or 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 10£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool seejunder Woolcraft.) Fig. 114. Child's Knitted Stole. 137 138 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — The stole described below will fit a child of from four to eight years. Cast on 24 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 4J inches. 1st Row.—Knit plain. 2nd Row. — Insert the needle in the first stitch, bring the wool forward over the top of the right-hand needle, and pass it twice round the needle and the first two fingers ; then knit the stitch in the ordinary way. This produces the loops shown in the illustration. Repeat the process in every stitch along the row. 3rd, 4th, and 5th Rows. — Knit plain. The third row will prove rather difficult knitting, as each stitch is of treble thickness, owing to the method of loop formation employed in the second row. Repeat the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th rows in order, until about 30 in. has been knitted. The stole should be fitted on the child for whose wear it is intended, in order to ascertain the exact length required. Cast off loosely. Making up. — Flatten out the knitting, and cut a double layer of cotton-wool to fit against the wrong side. Sew this wadding into position at the two ends. Now fold the two long edges of the stole together, thus forming a tubular padded muffler, with the loops on the outside. Sew neatly together these two long edges, and also the two short edges at the ends. Decorate the two ends of the stole with crocheted chain and pompoms as shown in the illustration. (See General Instructions.) • N. B. — A cheaper muffler or ruffle, involving less work than the above, may be made by knitting only a sufficient length to reach round the child's neck. Attach ribbons to the ends, so that the ruffle may be fastened by tying these ribbons in a bow at one side of the chin. A length of knitting of about 14 or 15 in. will be found sufficient. Fit the muffler on to the neck of the child for whose wear it is intended, in order to ascertain the exact length required. 2. CHILD'S KNITTED MUFF. Second Exercise in Making Loops. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 2\ oz. of Single Berlin Wool or 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 9d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The muff described below will fit a child of from four to eight years. Its finished appearance is shown in Fig. 114(a). Cast on 40 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 8 in. Proceed to knit in exactly the same pattern as described under the child's stole in the previous exercise. Work about 13 in. of this pattern, and cast off very loosely. To deter- mine the exact length required, fit the muff on the child for whose wear it is intended. Making up. — Join the muff into a cylindrical form on the wrong side. Pad with cotton -wool, as in the case of the stole, and line with sateen of the same colour as the muff. Turn in the raw edges of the lining, and sew it neatly round the edges of the muff. Join the lining into a cylindrical form by a nicely-finished seain. Make a crocheted chain of suitable length to suspend the muff from the child's neck. If this should not be considered strong enough, a chain with double STANDARD V. 139 crochet worked into it will serve the purpose. Decorate with chain and hanging pompoms, as shown in the illustration. Child's Knitted Muff. N.B. — The looped knitting, described in the above two articles, is a useful pattern for decorative borders round such articles as Bedroom Slippers, Fancy Mats, etc. 3. BABY'S KNITTED PETTICOAT. New Knitting Pattern taught, and New Crocheted Edging introduced for Border. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. 3| oz. of,4-ply wool. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = lid. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The petticoat described below will fit a baby of from six months to one year old. If coarser needles are used, and the same pattern and number of stitches employed, the petticoat can be made to fit a much older child. The measurements given would, of course, need to be proportionately increased. The pattern described below looks well on either side, though the one selected for the right side in the photograph of the complete garment is the more ornamental. Fig. 1 16 shows a small section of the reverse side of the knitting. 140 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Fig. 115. Baby's Knitted Petticoat. Front Half of Petticoat. Cast on 100 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 16 in. wide without stretching. If a garment of another size is required, vary the number of stitches proportionately. In all cases, however, the number selected should be divisible by five. Employ the second method of casting on described under General Instructions, as a firm edge is desirable. 1st Row of Skirt. — * Knit 3 purl 2. Repeat from * all along the row. 2nd Row of Skirt. — Knit plain. Slip the commencing stitch of every row after the first. Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until about 9 in. has been knitted. (To determine the exact length, measure the skirt against the child for whose wear it is intended.) Let the last row of the skirt be a row of plain knitting. Now STANDARD V. 141 narrow for the bodice, by knitting two stitches together all along the row. This reduces the stitches to 50. 1st Row of Bodice. — Knit plain all along the row. 2nd Row of Bodice. — Slip 1, * make 1 by bringing the wool forward under the point of the right-hand needle, and over again to the back (see General Instruc- tions on Increasings), knit two together. Repeat from * all along the row, knitting Fig. 116. Baby's Knitted Petticoat — Reverse Side of Pattern. the last stitch. There will still be 50 stitches on the needle. In all cases the number of stitches to which the bodice is reduced must be divisible by four with two over. This row forms holes through which a ribbon can be passed to draw up the waist. 3rd Row of Bodice. — Knit plain all along the row. 4th Row of Bodice. — Knit 2, purl 2 all along the row, finishing with knit 2. Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until about 6 in. has been knitted for the bodice. As before, measure the child to ascertain the exact length required. Finish with 142 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. a row of plain knitting. Now cast off all the stitches except 12 at the end of the needle. Keep the casting-off very loose, as the petticoat is made to slip over the child's head. Knit 4 in. of plain knitting on these 12 stitches, to form a shoulder-strap for one side of the petticoat. Cast off. Back Half of Petticoat. Knit this in exactly the same way as the front half. Making up. — Sew the two halves of the petticoat together in the same way as described under " Doll's Petticoat," leaving, however, \\ in. of the side seams unsewn at the top for armholes. The neck, sleeves, and bottom of the skirt may be decorated by a crocheted edging such as the following : — * 1 double crochet into a stitch, miss 1, 4 treble into the next stitch, miss 1. Repeat from *. Run ribbon through the neck and waist of the petticoat. N.B. — If preferred, the back of the bodice may be divided from the waist- line. In this case, employ 52 stitches, 26 on each side, taking care to work the shoulder-strap on the correct half to correspond with the front. 4. BABY'S GAITER. Different Method of Decreasing and New Pattern taught. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. Two Bone Needles — size 10. 2 oz. of Single Berlin Wool or 4-ply Wool will make one pair. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 7d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The gaiter described below will fit a child of about one or two years of age. By increasing the length and using coarser needles, the same pattern may be varied to produce gaiters for an older child. With No. 10 needles cast on 60 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 7J in. unstretched. The number selected must be divisible by three. 1st Row. — * Knit 1, purl 2. Repeat from * all along the row. Slip the commencing stitch of every row after the first. 2nd Row. — * Knit 2, purl 1 . Repeat from * to the end of the row. Continue to work the 1st and 2nd rows alternately until 27 rows, or about 3 in., have been knitted in all. 28th Row. — Change to No. 8 needles, and commence the following pattern : * Purl 2, and then pass over the next stitch without knitting it or taking it from the left needle ; knit the following stitch, and draw it right over the stitch that was passed by. Now go back to the one that was passed and knit it ; this makes an ornamental pattern known as a " Twist." (See enlarged illustration of stitch, Fig. 118.) Repeat from * to the end of the row. Rows 29, 30, and 31. — * Purl 2 knit 2. Repeat from * all along row. The last four rows form one block of the pattern. Repeat this block eight more times, thus producing n'.ne blocks. Rows 64, 65, and 66.— Like rows 28, 29, and 30. 67th Row. — Purl 2 knit 2, * purl 2 knit 2 together. Repeat from * till four stitches remain, purl 2 knit 2. STANDARD V. 143 ' : 68th Row. — Purl 2, * make the twist as described under 28th row, purl 1. Repeat from * till the last six stitches are reached. Then make the twist, purl 2, make the twist. 69th Row.— Purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, * knit 1, purl 2, and repeat from * ; knit 2 at the end. Fig. 117. Baby's Gaiter. 70th Row. — Purl 2/ * knit 2, purl 1 ; repeat from * till the last six stitches are reached. Then knit 2, purl 2, knit 2. 71s/ Row. — Purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, * knit 1, purl 2 ; repeat from * and knit 2 at the end. 72nd Row. — The same as the 68th row. Change back now to No. 10 needles, and knit 18 plain rows. 144 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 91st Row. — Cast off 12 stitches, and knit to the end. 92nd Row. — Like the 91st row. Now continue plain knitting, but decrease as follows in every third row : Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit plain along the row till three stitches are left at the end. Fig. 118. Details of Producing Twist in Baby's Gaiter. 3mit 2 together, knit 1. Continue to narrow thus in every third row, till only 12 stitches remain on the needle. Then knit 1 plain row, and cast off. Making up. — Sew up the seam at the back of the gaiter on the wrong side. Add a strip of elastic of the required length to go under the instep. Elastic about j- in. wide should be used and can be obtained at 3d. a yard. 5. KNITTED HUG-ME-TIGHT OR BOLERO. INew Knitting Pattern introduced, and more difficult Crochet Border. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 7. 4 oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. ljd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The pattern described below looks well on either side, though the one selected for the right side in the photograph is the more ornamental. The STANDARD V. 145 appearance of the reverse side of the knitting is similar to the reverse side of the " Baby's Knitted Coat " described under Exercise 2, Standard VII. The following is a very simple method of making a Hug-Me-Tight, as it is formed from a straight-edged piece of knitting shaped like the letter T. 42i" 13-4 13 i c 8t" At— -8V- }B Fig. 119. Knitted Hug-Me-Tight. First Half Front. Commencing at the end AB, cast on 48 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 8 J in. unstretched. The number of stitches selected should be divisible by two. 1st Row. — Knit 1 purl 1. Repeat this all along the row. 2nd Row. — Knit plain,, slipping the first stitch. Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows alternately, until 90 rows, or a sufficient number to produce a length of 14£ in., have been knitted. Throughout the knitting slip the commencing stitch of every row after the first. 10— (815B) 146 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Back of Hug-Me-Tight. Cast on 48 additional stitches at the end of a row, that is, along CD. This will produce 96 stitches on the needle. Continue the pattern as before, until 84 rows have been knitted, or a sufficient number to produce a length of 13J in. Second Half Front. Cast off 48 stitches along EF, that is, at the same end of the needle as the 48 additional stitches were cast on. Knit 90 more rows on the remaining 48 stitches, or a sufficient number to measure 14J in., as in the case of the first half-front. Cast off. Making up. — Fold down the point B to meet the point C, and A to meet D ; sew up the resulting under-arm seam on the wrong side. Similarly fold G to F, and H to E, and sew up the second under-arm seam. It will be seen that the long side HA is now curved round to form the back of the neck and the curved fronts {cf. Frontispiece). Work the following crochet border completely round the edge of the Hug-Me-Tight, and also round the armholes : — 1st Row. — Join on the wool, work 3 chain (to form a treble) and 1 treble into a stitch, then 1 chain and 2 more treble into the same stitch. * Miss 2 stitches, 2 trebles into next stitch, 1 chain, and 2 more trebles into the same stitch. Repeat from *. 2nd Row. — Work single stitch to reach the hole formed by the 1 chain in the centre of the first group of trebles. Work 5 trebles into this hole, and then proceed to work 5 trebles into each succeeding hole right round the border. 6(A). RULES FOR KNITTING AND TURNING OF HEELS. Preliminary Instructions to be used for Purposes of Reference when Knitting any Socks or Stockings subsequently described. Number of Stitches on the Needle. This should be as nearly as possible half the total number of stitches which were on the needles before commencing the heel. There must be a seam stitch, and an even number of stitches on each side of it. Thus, if there were 72 stitches altogether on the three needles of the leg, 37 stitches should be taken for the heel, the one in excess of half the total being used to provide a seam-stitch. Number of Rows. Work the same number as there are stitches on the heel needle. Method of Knitting. 1st Row. — Slip the first stitch ; knit the remainder with the exception of the seam-stitch which is purled. 2nd Row. — Turn the knitting round, and work back along the heel-needle thus : Slip the first stitch purl-wise ; purl the remainder with the exception of the seam-stitch which is knitted. Repeat these two rows alternately throughout the length of the heel. STANDARD V. 147 Methods of Turning. — Gusset Heel. Discontinue the seam-stitch. 1st Row. — Purl two more stitches than the number each side the seam-stitch, (e.g., in the case of the heel above mentioned, where the number each side the seam was 18, purl 20), p. 2 tog., p. 1. 2nd Row. — Turn the work completely round, and work back thus : s. 1, k. 4 k. 2 tog., k. 1. 3rd Row. — Turn the work round again ; s. 1, p. 5, p. 2 tog., p. 1. 4th Row. — Turn; s. 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., k. 1. 5th Row. — Turn; s. 1, p. 7, p. 2 tog., p. 1. 6th Row. — Turn; s. 1, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Continue thus, increasing by one every row the number of stitches before taking two together. Decrease the total number of stitches on the heel in this way until there are no more stitches to be removed from the ends of the needle. The number of stitches remaining will always be three more than the number of stitches on each side of the seam of the heel. Dutch Heel. 1st Row. — P. to the seam-stitch, k. the seam-stitch, p. 3 after the seam stitch, 1 p. 2 tog. 2nd Row. — Turn ; s. 1, k. 3, purl the seam-stitch, k. 3, k. 2 tog. 3rd Row. — Turn ; s. 1, p. 3, k. the seam stitch, p. 3, p. 2 tog. Repeat the above two rows alternately until all the stitches are removed from the ends of the needle. There will now be 9 stitches left. Methods of Thickening Heels. There are two methods of knitting heels of greater durability in wear than those already described. First Method. 1st Row. — Slip 1, and knit 1 alternately until the seam-stitch is reached ; purl the seam-stitch, and then knit 1, slip 1, alternately to the end. The last stitch of the row must, however, always be knitted, not slipped. 2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch purl- wise ; purl the remainder with the excep- tion of the seam-stitch, which is knitted. Repeat these two rows alternately throughout the working of the heel. Second Method. Work the heel in the ordinary manner, but knit in with the wool an extra thread of silk or cotton. " O-So-Silkie, " or D.M.C. " Coton Perle" of medium thickness, is suitable for providing this extra thread. It must, of course, be of the same colour as the wool which is being employed. 1 In the case of a large-sized sock or stocking it is advisable to k. 4 or p. 4 past the seam-stitch at every turn. There will then be 11 stitches left on the needle at the end. 148 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 6(B). CHILD'S SOCKS. Knitting and Turning of Heel, and Decreasings for Foot and Toe taught Materials. — 2£ oz. of 4-ply Knitting Wool will make one pair. Four Steel Needles — size 14. Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 7£d. per pair. (For other qualities of suitable wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 120. Child's Sock. Instructions. — The socks described below will fit a child of about four years of age. Cast on 60 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting which will measure about 5J in. round. The exact width should be determined by measuring round the child's leg. For Welt. Knit 30 rounds or 2 \ in. of ribbing, k. 1, p. 1. For Leg. Use plain knitting with the exception of one purled stitch in every round for the seam stitch. Knit 60 rounds or 5 in. of this. STANDARD V. 149 For Heel. Place 15 stitches (i.e., J of the total number round leg) each side of the seam- stitch, and knit as described under Dutch Heel. There will be nine stitches left on the heel after turning, and the last row worked will be a knitted row. In readiness for the foot pick up 15 loops along the side of the heel immediately adjoining the wool coming from this row of 9 stitches, and knit into each loop in turn. Knit along the stitches left on the front needle. Lastly, pick up 15 loops along the other side of the heel, and knit into these. Arrangement of Stitches for Foot. One side needle. — 5 st. from heel + 15 st. taken up along the side of the heel + 5 st. from instep needle. The other side needle. — 4 st. from heel + 15 st. taken up along the side of the heel + 6 st. from instep needle. Instep needle. — The 18 st. remaining. Decreasings of Foot. 1st Round. — Plain. 2nd Round. — Instep needle. Plain. First side needle. — K. 5, k. 2 tog., k. plain to the end. Second side needle. — K. till only 7 st. remain on the needle. Then k. 2 tog., k. 5. Repeat the above two rounds alternately, until only 18 st. remain on each side needle. Straight Portion of Foot. 28 rounds, or 2J- in. of plain knitting. Decreasings for Toe. 1st Round. — First needle. K. 1, k. 2 tog., and then k. till only 3 st. remain on the needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Repeat this process on each of the remaining needles. 2nd, 3rd, . and 4th Rounds. — Plain. Repeat the above four rounds once more. 9th Round. — Like 1st round of decreasings. 10th and 11th Rounds. — Plain. Repeat the above three rounds once more. 15th Round. — Like 1st round of decreasings. 16th Round. — -Plain. Repeat the above two rounds twice more. There will now be four stitches on each needle. Break off the wool. Cast off by knitting each of the stitches in turn on to the end of the wool left. Take this end through to the wrong side of the sock, and finish it off neatly. (See General Instructions on Casting-off from three needles.) 7. SHAWL OR WRAP OF SHETLAND WOOL. Open-work Pattern and Border, suitable for Knitting Shawls, taught. Materials. — 4 J oz. of White Shetland Wool. Two Bone Needles — size 11. Cost, using wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. 3£d. (For other varieties of wool suitable for shawls, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — If worked in Shetland Wool, or other 2-ply varieties, the following pattern produces a very dainty wrap. If a thicker wrap is required the same pattern may be carried out in 4-ply wool on No. 8 needles. In that case fewer stitches will be needed on the needle than those given in the following instructions. Cast on 198 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 25 in. wide. (In all cases the number of stitches must be divisible by 7 with 2 over.) 150 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Border. 1st Row. — Purl. 2nd Row. — Plain. 3rd Row. — Purl. 4th Row. — Plain. Hth Row.—S. 1, * k. 2 tog., k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, k. 2 tog. ; repeat from * till only one stitch remains on the needle ; knit the last stitch. 6th Row.—PutL Repeat the last two rows alternately nine times more. This completes the border. To separate the border from the remainder of the shawl : Purl 1 row, knit 1 row purl 1 row, knit 1 row. Fig. 121. Shawl or Wrap of Shetland Wool. For the Remainder of the Shawl. 1st Row. — Like 5th row of border. 2nd Row. — Purl. 3rd Row. — Plain. 4th Row. — Purl. Repeat the above four rows until the shawl is of the desired length. A suitable length is 50 in. when finished. Then work rows before the completing border as follows : Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row. STANDARD V. 151 Border. 1st Row. — Like 5th row of previous border. '2nd Row. — Plain. Repeat the last two rows alternately nine times more. Then purl 1 row, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row. Cast off very loosely using the second method. 8. GIRL'S CROCHETED PETTICOAT (SIMPLE PATTERN). Revision of Double Crochet, and of Treble Stitch, in Larger Article for Girl's Own Wear. The instructions for this are given under No. 16 (b), Standard III Syllabus. Fig. 122; Crocheted Woollen Scarf. 9. CROCHETED SCARF. Harder Exercise in the Use of Double Crochet and Trebles. Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. 3 oz. of Single Berlin or 4-ply wool. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 10£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — Make a chain of the length required for the scarf (200 chain was the number employed for that shown in Fig. 122), a scarf 50 in. in length. 152 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 1st Row. — Work double crochet into each stitch of the chain except the first, and do 4 chain to turn. 2nd Row. — Do 1 treble into the second stitch, * 1 chain, miss a stitch, 1 treble into the next stitch. Repeat from * all along the row, working trebles, with 1 chain between in alternate stitches. Do 1 chain to turn. 3rd Row. — Work double crochet into every stitch of the chain. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows alternately 13 times. Twenty-seven rows will have been worked in all. Cut the wool, draw the end through, and fasten off securely. This will produce a scarf about 9 in. wide, which may be lengthened by making a longer chain to commence, or widened by increasing the number of rows worked. Finish off the ends of the scarf by adding a full fringe. (See General Instructions.) io. VESTETTE, OR SHAPED NECK WRAP, IN CROCHET. Treble Stitch employed in Article of more Difficult Shape. Materials. — A small Bone Crochet Hook. 1 oz. of 4-ply wool. 3 press-studs. Cost, employing wool at 5s. per lb. = 4d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 123. Vestette, or Shaped Neck Wrap, in Crochet. STANDARD V. 153 Instructions. — The wrap is commenced at the top of the collar, and worked downwards. Collar. Make a chain 14 in. in length, or 14£ in. in the case of a large neck. 1st Row. — Turn with 3 chain, and work 1 treble into every stitch of the chain. 2nd Row. — Turn with 3 chain, and work 1 treble into the hole between the last 2 trebles of the previous row, * 1 tr. into the next hole between trebles ; repeat from * into every hole along the row. (There should be exactly the same number of trebles in this as in the previous row.) Continue to work rows like the second row until the strip for the collar is from 2 to 2\ in. wide, according to the requirements of the intended wearer. Front or Chest Portion. Work with single stitch for 3 in. along the lower edge of the collar, in order to reach the correct point to commence the working of the front, then also allow for 3 in. to be left at the other end of the collar. The part left in between for the working of the chest portion should measure from 8 to 9 in. Count how many trebles there are in this middle part. It is necessary to know this in order to decide how many d.c.'s are to be worked in each row in order to shape the neck curve. 1st Row. — Work trebles along the first quarter of the portion allotted for the front ; next work d.c.'s along the middle half of this portion ; then work trebles along the remaining quarter. (In the case of the vestette shown in Fig. 123. the number of stitches to be worked for the chest portion was found to be 44. Therefore the first row was worked thus: 11 tr., 22 d.c, 11 tr.) 2nd Row. — In this row the sloping off of the front is commenced by starting thus : Work with single stitch into the first hole between trebles. Then work 3 chain to serve as the first treble ; then 1 tr. into the next hole. By this means the number of stitches in the row will become one less than in the previous row. Every row for the next 4 in. must be commenced in this way, so that there is a decrease of one stitch per row. In this second row, work two more trebles each side the centre than in the first row, and a correspondingly less number of d.c.'s to form the centre. (In the case of the vestette shown in Fig. 123, the second row was worked thus : 13 tr., 17 d.c, 13 tr.) 3rd Row. — Again work two more trebles on each side the centre than in the previous row, and less d.c.'s in the centre. Continue to lessen the number of d.c.'s in this way for each succeeding row, until only 4 d.c.'s remain to be worked in the centre. After this, work the rows entirely in trebles. When 4 in. has been com- pleted from the bottom of the collar downwards, and the front portion is about 5£ in. across the width, discontinue the slope, by commencing each row as was done in the case of the collar. Continue in this way until the chest portion measures 1\ in. down the centre of the front, when the vestette will be completed. 154 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. ii. CROCHETED SILK NECK- WRAP. Practice in the Method of Joining Thread in Crochet. Materials. — A Steel Crochet Hook — size 2. One ball coloured Star Sylko or D.M.C.— No. 8. Seven balls white Star Sylko or D.M.C.— No. 8. Cost = Is. 4d Fig. 124. Crocheted Silk Neck-wrap. Instructions. — The quantities given above will make a wrap of which the length, exclusive of fringe, is 45 in. Make 80 chain, or a length of 74 in. 1st Row. — Turn with 1 chain, and work 1 d.c. into every stitch of the chain. 2nd Row. — Like first row, working 1 d.c. into every stitch of the previous row. 3rd Row. — Turn with 3 chain, and work 1 treble into every stitch of the second row. Repeat these three rows four times more. Now join on the coloured Sylko. (See General Instructions.) It is always advisable to make the join in a row of d.c.'s, as it will be less conspicuous than if made in a row of trebles. Work a stripe about half an inch wide in the coloured Sylko, still continuing the pattern as at first described. Cut off the coloured Sylko, join on the white again, and work a stripe about three-quarters of an inch wide. Again cut off the white, and join on the coloured Sylko, and work another stripe to correspond in width with the first coloured one. (The number and width of the coloured stripes may be varied to suit individual tastes.) Again commence to work with the white Sylko, and continue with this until about 40 in. in all has been worked. Now work coloured stripes to correspond STANDARD V. 155 with those at the beginning of the wrap, and finish with a white stripe to match the commencement. N.B. — Great care must be taken throughout to keep the rows of exactly equal length, or a ragged edge will be produced. Frequent counting is highly advisable to see that the right number of stitches is still being worked on each row. Fringing. Finish the ends of the wrap with a fringe as described in General Instructions, but let each knot of the fringing consist of six strands of Sylko. The finished fringe should be 2 J in. deep. 12. CROCHETED TIE, FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. More Difficult Pattern taught involving Trebles. Materials. — Steel Crochet Hook — size 2. Two balls " Coton Perle " D.M.C. — size 5, or " O-So-Silkie," medium size, at 2d. per ball. Cost of one tie = 4d. Fig. 125. Crocheted Tie. Instructions — Long End of Tie. Commence with a chain of 20. 1st Row. — * Miss 3, work 2 treble into the fourth stitch, chain 2, work 1 treble into the same stitch. Repeat from * to the end of the row and turn with 5 chain. 1S6 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. (Small holes will have been formed by the 2 chain between the trebles, into which the pattern of the next row will be worked.) 2nd Row. — * Work 2 tr. into the first hole, chain 2, and work 1 tr. into the same hole. Repeat from * into each of the four remaining holes along the row. There will thus be five repetitions of the pattern. Turn with 5 chain. Repeat this second row, until 15 in. has been worked. The tie is now reduced in width as follows, to form the narrow part for neck. Narrow Portion for Neck. 1st Row. — Repeat the pattern four times, that is, into each of the first four holes. Into the fifth hole work 2 tr. only, and then turn with 5 chain. 2nd Row. — Repeat the pattern three times, that is, into the first three holes. Into the fourth hole work 2 tr. only, and turn with 5 ch. 3rd Row. — Repeat the pattern three times, as there are now only three holes. Turn with 5 chain. Repeat this third row (in which there are only three repeti- tions of the pattern), until 13 in. of the narrower part has been worked. Now widen for the other end of the tie in the following manner. Short End of Tie. 1st Row. — Work the pattern into each of the three holes, and also into the 5 ch. at the end, thus producing four patterns. Turn with 5 ch. 2nd Row. — Work the pattern into each of the four holes, and also into the 5 ch. at the end, thus producing five patterns. Turn with 5 ch. 3rd Row. — Work the pattern into each of the five holes. Turn with 5 ch. Continue to repeat this third row, until 13 in. more has been worked for the second end of the tie. Fasten off neatly. N.B. — If the rows are turned without 5 chain, a less picoted edge is formed, rendering the tie more suitable for a boy. The regulation proportions of a tie for a boy or a man are : — Long end, 12 in. ; narrow portion for neck, 16 in. (rather less for a boy) ; short end, 8 in. STANDARD VI. i (A). STOCKING FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. Decreasings in Leg taught. Materials. — Four Steel Knitting-needles — size' 14. 6 oz. Black 4-ply wool for one pair. Cost, using wool at 3s. 9d. per lb. = Is. 5d. per pair. (For prices of other suitable 4-ply wools, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 126. Stocking for Child's Own Wear. 157 158 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — Cast on 84 stitches. (For variation of width, see under 1 (b) of this Standard.) Welt. Work 25 rounds, or 2 in., of ribbing, knit 1 purl 1. Portion of Leg before Decreasings. Use plain knitting with the exception of one purled stitch in every round for the seam-stitch. Knit 8 in. of this. Decreasings of Leg. 1st Round. — Knit until 3 st. remain before the seam-stitch, s. 1, k. 1, draw the s. stitch over the k. stitch, k. 1, p. the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. remainder of round. (A detailed description of each of these methods of decreasing is given in General Instructions.) Next 8 Rounds. — Plain. (Retain seam-stitch throughout the leg.) Repeat the above nine rounds three times more. 37th Round. — Decrease again in the same way as in 1st round. Next 6 Rounds. — Plain. Repeat the above seven rounds twice more. 58th Round. — Like 1st round. (The total length occupied by the decreasings is 5 in.) Portion between Decreasings and Heel. Five inches of plain knitting. Heel. Place 17 stitches each side the seam-stitch, and knit as described under Gusset Heel. (See 6 (a), St. V.) There will be 20 st. left on the heel after turning. In readiness for the foot take up 17 loops from one side of the heel, and 16 from the other side, and knit them. (For full description of this process, see under 6 (b), St. V.) Arrangement of Stitches for Foot. One side needle. — 10 st. from heel + 17 st. taken up along the side of the heel + 6 st. from instep needle. The other side needle. — 10 st. from heel + 16 st. taken up at the side of the heel + 7 st. from instep needle. Front or instep needle. — The 22 remaining st. Decreasings of Foot. The aim of working these is to decrease the number of stitches on each side needle to 22, the same number as for instep needle. 1st Round. — Plain. 2nd Round. — Front needle. Plain. 1st side needle. K. 6, k. 2 tog., k. plain to the end. 2nd side needle. K. plain till only 8 st. remain, k. 2 tog., k. 6. Repeat the above two rounds alternately until only 22 st. remain on each side needle. Straight Portion of Foot. 3J or 3£ in. of plain knitting. STANDARD VI. t 159 Decreasings of Toe. 1st Round. — 1st needle. K. 1, k. 2 tog., knit till only 3 st. remain on the needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Repeat this process on each of the remaining needles. (In the case of the first decreasing on each needle, the Pulling-over method may be used. See General Instructions.) 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Rounds. — Plain. Repeat the above four rounds twice more. 13th Round. — Like 1st round. 14th and 15th Rounds. — Plain. Repeat the above three rounds twice more. 22nd Round. — Like 1st round. 23rd Round. Plain. Repeat the above two rounds twice more. There will now be four stitches on each needle. Break off the wool. Cast off the remaining stitches by knitting them in turn on to the loose end left, and drawing it through each one. Finish the end off neatly on the wrong side of the stocking. (See General Instructions on Casting-off.) i (B). ADAPTATION OF FOREGOING INSTRUCTIONS TO PRODUCE STOCKINGS OF DIFFERENT SIZES. 1. Determination of the Number of Stitches to Produce the Correct Widths for the Various Parts of the Stocking. Measure the girth of the leg at a distance of 5 or 6 in. above the knee. (This distance, however, may be varied according to the length of the stocking above the knee preferred by the individual wearer.) Ascertain -the number of stitches per inch produced by the knitter. Multiply this number by the number of inches in the girth measurement. Divide the resulting number by 3 to obtain the number of stitches per needle. Number of stitches after the leg narrowings should be $ of the number at first cast on, and this is also the number of stitches required on the needles of the foot after the decreasings following the heel. 2. Scale of Lengths. The following rules enable the knitter to make a stocking to fit a wearer of any height, provided that suitable measurements have been taken. (1) The Leg. — First measure the intended wearer's height from the ankle to the bend of the knee. The total length of the leg of the stocking before com- mencing the heel must be 1 J times this measurement. (Thus, in the girl's stocking just described, the wearer's leg measurement was 13£ in., and the length knitted before the heel was 20 in.) The length of the portion before the decreasings of the leg should be about £ of the total length of the stocking-leg. (See' Fig. 127.) The decreasings themselves should occupy about £ of the total length. The portion between the decreasings and the heel will then occupy \ of the total length. (In the case of the girl's stocking for which the instructions are given, it will be noticed that 10 in., including the welt, was knitted before commencing the decreasings, that the decreasings themselves were 5 in. in length, and that the portion between the decreasings and the heel was also 5 in. long.) 160 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. (2) The Heel. — The proportions for heels have already been given in the special article on the subject. {See Standard V Syllabus.) (3) The Foot. — The measurement of the foot should be taken from the back of the heel, along the side of the foot to the toe. The length, from the line where Fig. 127. Diagram Showing Proportions of Stocking. the side-stitches of the foot were taken up to the decreasings for the toe, should be § of this measurement. (See Fig. 127.) The decreasings should occupy £ of the same measurement. The remaining J is given by the depth of the heel itself. i(c). RE- WELTING AND RE-FOOTING OF SOCKS OR STOCKINGS. 1. RE- WELTING. When the tops of socks or stockings have been worn into holes or torn by use of a suspender, or in any other way, the whole welt can be replaced in the following manner : — STANDARD VI. 161 (a) For Socks or Stockings of Plain Knitting with Ribbed Welts. — Cut the welt completely off immediately below the point where the ribbing for the welt ceased. Pick out all loose bits of wool with a needle, and it will be found that the plain knitting will unravel quite readily. Unravel just so much as is neces- sary to leave a clear row of stitches for picking up completely round the work. If care was taken to cut in a perfectly straight line when removing the welt, only one or two rounds need be undone. Knit with the long end of the unravelled wool until about 6 in. of this remains, and then join on the new wool. (See General Instructions.) Work plain knitting for the same number of rounds which it was found neces- sary to unravel before picking up the stitches ; then commence to do ribbed knitting for the welt. Continue this for the required length, and then cast off loosely, employing the second method described under General Instructions. (b) For Ribbed Socks or Stockings, with a Welt of different Ribbing. — Cut off the welt as before, taking great care to cut in a straight line. Pick out the loose ends until the stitches are quite clear and one end of wool only remains. This will be found a more difficult process than in the case of the plain knitting, as, owing to the ribbing, the work will not unravel directly, but the wool has to be drawn out a stitch at a time till the work is quite level. Owing to the position of the stitches it will be found that it is not possible to continue the ribbed pattern of the leg without the evidence of a slight break in the continuity of the pattern. It is best, therefore, to commence immediately to knit the ribbing for the welt, joining on the new wool as soon as the unravelled end has been knitted up. Another plan is to knit two or three plain rounds before commencing the ribbing for the welt. 2. Re-footing. It is frequently found that the heels and soles of socks and stockings have become very much worn, while the legs still remain in quite good condition. The most economical plan, in such a case, is to replace completely the old heel and foot by knitting new ones on to the old leg. Obtain wool as nearly as possible of the same texture and thickness as that of the leg on to which the new heel and foot are to be knitted. Proceed as follows : — Cut off the heel and foot immediately above the worn-out portion, which will frequently be found to extend for 1 or 2 in. up the leg. Pick out the loose bits of wool and unravel the work till a clear row of stitches is obtained, as described under re-welting. Then pick them up and proceed to knit round with the end of the unravelled wool, the ribbing or plain knitting of the leg being continued as the case may require, until about 6 in. of the old wool remains. Join on the new wool and continue to knit in rounds until the leg has been made up to its original length. Then proceed to knit a new heel and foot to match the old heel and foot exactly. Instructions for so doing are given under the various socks and stockings described in Standards V, VI, and VII. II— (815B) 162 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 2. GENTLEMAN'S RIBBED SOCK. Decreasings in Ribbed Knitting taught. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 13. Mixture wool — 6 oz. for the pair. Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = Is. 6d. (For other qualities of fancy mixtures, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 128. Gentleman's Ribbed Sock. Instructions. — Cast on 84 stitches. "Welt. Work 50 rounds, or 4 in., of ribbing, k. 1, p. 1. Portion between the Welt and Decreasings. Change the rib to k. 3, p. 1 . Knit 30 rounds, or 2 J in., of this before commencing decreasings. STANDARD VI. 163 Decreasings of Leg. 1st Round. — K. 3, p. 1, for 12 st. ; k. 2 tog., k. 1, purl the next stitch, which is now to be treated as the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog., p. 1 ; then k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder of the round. 2nd Round. — K. 3, p. 1, for 12 st. ; then k. 2, p. 1 twice, the rib being lessened by the decreasing ; k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder of the round. Next 7 Rounds. — Like 2nd round. 10th Round. — Work the rib in the usual way until 3 stitches remain before the seam-stitch ; k. 2 tog., k. 1, p. the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog. ; then k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder of the round. 11th Round. — K. 3, p. 1, for 8 stitches; k. 5, p. 1 twice; k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder of the round. Next 7 Rounds. — Like 11th round. 19th Round. — Work the rib until 3 st. remain before the seam-stitch ; k. 2 tog., k. 1, p. the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog. ; k. 2, p. 1 ; then k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder of the round. 20ih Round. — K. 3, p. 1, for 8 stitches ; then k. 4, p. 1 twice ; then k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder of the round. Next 7 Rounds. — Like 20th round. 28th Round. — Work the rib until 3 st. before the seam-stitch ; k. 2 tog., k. 1, p. the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 1, p. 1 ; then k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder of the round. This round completes the decreasings, the rib is now restored, and the method of working is again k. 3, p. 1 all round. (In all the above decreasings, the " Pulling-over " method described in General Instructions may be used before the seam-stitch.) Portion between Decreasings and Heel. Knit 25 rounds or 2 in. of ribbing. Heel. Place 18 st. on each side of the seam-stitch, and knit as described under " Gusset Heel." (See 6 (a), St.V.) There will be 21 stitches left on the heel needle after the turning. In preparation for the foot, take up 17 loops on one side of the heel and 18 loops from the other, and knit them. (For full description of this process see under 6 (b), St. V.) Arrangement of Stitches for Foot. One side needle. — 10 st. from heel + 17 st. taken up along side of heel + 2 st. from beginning of instep needle. Instep needle. — The 37 st. which now remain upon it. The other side needle. — 11 st. from heel + 18 st. taken up along side of heel, Decreasings of Foot. 1st Round. — Front or instep needle. In the case of this needle the ribbing will be continued right up to the toe. The first and last stitches will be purled. On the two side needles plain knitting will be worked. 2nd Round. — On the front needle the rib is continued. First side needle — knit 1, k. 2 tog., k. to the end. Second side needle — k. till only 3 st. remain, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Repeat the above two rounds alternately until only 19 st. remain on each of the side needles, and 75 st. on all three needles together. (In the case of each decreasing on the first side needle the Pulling-over method may be used.) 164 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Straight Portion of Foot. Work the whole of this with the front needle ribbed, and the two side needles plain. This portion should consist of 66 rounds, or measure 5£ in. Decreasings at Toe. Take 6 st. from each end of the instep needle and place them on the side needles, so that there are now 25 st. on each needle. The rib is now discontinued. Carry out the decreasings and casting-off exactly as described in the Stocking which forms the preceding exercise to this, but work the 22nd and 23rd rounds four times over instead of three ; this will reduce the number of stitches to 5 on each needle. (The length of the completed foot should be about 10J in.) Method of Adapting the above Instructions to fit a Larger or Smaller Foot. The instructions given are for a man's sock of medium size. If a sock of large size is required, the width may be increased by the addition of 4 st., or any multiple of 4, in the case of the leg, and 3 st. or a multiple of 3 in the case of the foot. Thus, 88, 92, or even 96 st. may be employed at the commencement of the leg, and 78, 81, or 84 for the straight portion of the foot. The length may be increased by knitting a larger number of rounds before and after the decreasings in the leg (so that the proper proportion may still be preserved), and also more rounds for the straight portion of the foot. The method of apportioning the stitches for the heel has already been given in " Rules for Knitting and Turning Heels." (See under 6 (a), Stan. V.) In the case of a smaller sock than that described being required, the process given above should be reversed. 3. CHILD'S KNITTED JERSEY. Formation of Shoulder Flap, and Knitting-in of Button-holes taught. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. Three Steel Needles — size 12. 3 oz. 4-ply wool. Five small pearl or bone buttons. Cost, using wool at 5s. per lb., = Is. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — This jersey will fit a child of from one to two years of age, but, if coarser wool and needles are used, and the same number of stitches employed, it will fit a much older child. Back. The work is commenced at the bottom of the back along the line AB in Fig. 131. With the thicker needles cast on 66 St., or as many as will produce un- stretched knitting 7J in. wide ; knit 18 rows of ribbing, k. 1, p. 1 ; slip the first stitch in every row after the first. 19th Row. — Plain. 20th Row. — Purl. This row commences the pattern. 21st Row. — * K. 1, p. 1 ; repeat from * all along the row. 22nd Row. — Like last row. 23rd Row. — Plain. 24th Row. — Like 21st row. 25th Row. — Like last row. This completes pattern. Repeat the last six rows 15 times more until total length of knitting is 134 in 116th Row.—K. 17 (see space CD in Fig. 130) ; cast off 32 (see line DE) to form the back of the neck opening ; knit 10 (see line EF), and leave the remaining stitches unknitted (see space FJ). On these same 10 stitches (line EF) knit the. STANDARD VI. 165 pattern for nine rows, and then cast off. (The flap EFGH thus formed will have buttons affixed, and, as indicated by the dotted line, will lap under the button- holes which will be knitted into the portion opposite.) Join on a fresh piece of wool, and knit the last seven stitches of the 1 16th row. Fig. 129. Child's Knitted Jersey. Front. With Row. — Purl 7, cast on 42 (to form front of shoulder and neck opening) ; purl the last 17 st. There are again 66 st. on the needle. \\8th Row. — Like 21st row. \\9th Row. — Like last row. \20th Row. — K. 49, k. 2 tog., m. 2 (wool over twice), k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog., m. 2, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end. 121s* Row. — Like 21st row. Two button-holes have now been formed on the left shoulder, to fit on to the flap EFGH before mentioned. {See Fig. 130.) Knit the pattern until there are 16 repetitions from the neck, or until the length 166 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. of the front is equal to the length of the back exclusive of the ribbed edge. Now knit one purl row and one plain row before the border. Knit 18 rows of ribbing to correspond with those at the commencement of the back, and the line KL of the diagram will be reached. Cast off by the second method given in General Instructions. 44" Fig. 130. Child's Jersey. (Collar not shown.) The Sleeves. Hold the right side of the work towards you, and count 20 loops or measure 4 in. downwards from the centre row of the right shoulder. Commence, at this point, M, to pick up and knit stitches, making one after every two picked up, until STANDARD VI. 167 you reach the 20th loop down the front, that is, the point N. There should be in all 60 stitches. 1st Row. — Purl. 2nd Row. — Like 21st row of back. 3yd Row. — Like last row. 4th Row. — SI. 1, k. 2 tog., and then k. till only 3 st. remain, k. 2 tog., k. 1. 5th Row. — * P. 1, k. 1 ; repeat from * all along row. 6th Row. — Like last row. 1th Row. — S. 1 purl fashion, p. 2 tog., p. till only 3 st. remain, p. 2 tog., p. 1. Repeat the last six rows till only 46 stitches remain on the needle, or until the sleeve is 5 in. wide. Continue to knit the pattern without further decreasings until the 61st row is completed, or until the sleeve-length is 7 in. Take the No. 12 needles and knit 20 rows of ribbing like those at the beginning, and the line OP of diagram will be reached ; cast off as before. Knit the second sleeve in the same way. The Collar. With the steel needles, pick up and knit stitches along the neck opening, be- ginning at the 10th cast-on stitch at the front of the left shoulder (i.e., just beyond the second button-hole). Continue picking up stitches until the end of the flap, point H, is reached. In all, there should be 76 st. A third needle is convenient for knitting the first few rows. 1st Row. — * K. 1, p. 1 ; repeat from * along the row. 2nd Row. — SI. 1, p. 1, k. 2 tog., m. 2, k. 2. tog., * k. 1, p. 1 ; repeat from *. Next 7 Rows. — Continue the ribbing, k. 1, p. 1. Repeat the last eight rows once more. There are now two button-holes made in the collar. 18th Row. — Like the 2nd row to form a third button-hole. Next 4 Rows. — Continue the ribbing, k. 1, p. 1. Cast off as before. Sew up the sleeve and side-seams ; secure the end of the shoulder-flap in its place ; then sew on five buttons to correspond with the button-holes. 4. BABY'S KNITTED GLOVE. Method of Increasing for Thumb taught. This is a Helpful Exercise Preparatory to the Teaching of Knitted Glove for Girl's Own Wear. Materials. — 1 yd. narrow ribbon. Four Steel Needles — size 16. 1 oz. White Andalusian Wool for one pair. Cost, using wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 4Jd. (For other varieties of suitable wool and their prices, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — It should be noted that the instructions given below are for a glove knitted in an ornamental stitch. If the teacher desires, the work can be very much simplified for the girls by having the gloves worked in plain knitting, while carrying out the instructions in the matter of dimensions of glove, method of increasing for thumb, knitting of thumb, etc. The glove described will fit a child of from 1J to 2 years. Cast on 54 stitches, or as many as will produce unstretched knitting measuring 4 in. round. Wrist. Work 36 rounds of k. 1, p. 2 ribbing. 168 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Hand. 1st Round. — Plain. 2nd Round. — * K. 2 tog., m. 2 by passing the wool over the needle twice, k. 2 tog. ; repeat from * until 2 stitches of the round remain ; then m. 1, k. 2 tog. 3rd Round. — Plain. There should still be 54 st. all round. The row of holes made is to be used for running the ribbon through for the wrist. Fig. 131. Baby's Knitted Glove. 4th Round. — * K. 2 tog. ; repeat from * all round. 5th Round. — * P. 1, take up the thread between the last and next stitches, and purl in it ; repeat from * all round. 6th, 7th, and 8th Rdunds. — Plain. The above five rounds form the pattern. Work two more rounds of the pattern before commencing the widenings for the thumb. 11th Round. — Make a stitch by taking up and knitting the thread between the STANDARD VI. 169 last stitch knitted, and the first stitch of the new round ; then knit the remainder plain. 12th Round. — Plain. There are now 55 stitches. 13th Round. — Make 1 and purl it, k. 1, make 1 and purl it; knit remainder of round. 14th Round. — P. 1, k. 1, p. 1 ; continue as for pattern for the remainder of the round, i.e., knitting two together continuously. 15th ' ound. — P. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, p. 1. Continue the pattern for the remainder of the round, i.e., * p. 1, take up the thread between the stitches, and purl it. Repeat from *. 16th Round. — P. 1, k. 3, p. 1 ; knit remainder plain as in pattern. 17th Round. — P. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, p. 1 ; knit remainder plain. 18th Round. — P. 1, k. 5, p. 1 ; knit remainder plain. Continue to increase in this way in alternate rows until there are 13 stitches between the 2 purl stitches. (The pattern is to be continued except for the part between the purl stitches.) Next 10 Rounds. — Without increasing. For the Thumb. Take 1 plain stitch before the first purl stitch, both purl stitches, the 13 stitches between the purl stitches, with 1 plain stitch beyond, and arrange these 17 stitches on three needles. Before joining into a ring, cast on 6 new stitches. (All the stitches left for the hand, 52 in number, should be placed on a separate piece of wool while the thumb is knitted.) 1st Round of Thumb. — Plain. 2nd Round. — Plain. 3rd Round. — Beginning with the newly cast on stitches, k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., knit plain for the remainder of the round. Next 20 Rounds. — Plain. 24th Round. — Knit 2 together repeatedly all round, break off the wool, and then cast off the 1 1 stitches left, by passing them on to the loose end of the wool. Take this end through to the wrong side, and finish neatly. For the Part of the Hand above the Thumb. Place the stitches as follows : — 1st needle — 2 st. before the thumb, 6 new st. from the part inside the thumb, and 14 more stitches. 2nd needle — 18 st. 3rd needle — 18 st. 1st Round.— Plain. 2nd Round. — K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog., knit plain for the remainder of the round. 3rd Round. — K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., knit plain for the remainder of the round. This leaves 54 st. all round. Continue without further decreasings until seven patterns have been completed past the thumb. For Decreasings at Top of Glove. Arrange the stitches as follows : — 27 on the front needle, 14 on the second needle, 13 on the third needle. 170 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 1st Round. — 1st needle. K. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain until 3 st. remain on the needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1. 2nd needle. — K. 1, k. 2 tog. ; knit plain to the end. 3rd needle. — Knit plain until only 3 st. remain on the needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1. 2nd Round. — Plain. Repeat the above two rounds six times more. Cast off as follows : Turn the glove wrong side out. Put the stitches from the second and third needles all together on one needle. Knit two stitches together, one from each needle ; knit another two in the same manner ; pass the first result- ing stitch over the second ; knit two together as before ; repeat the process of passing the previous stitch over ; continue in this way until only one stitch remains on the needle. Break off the wool, draw it through, and fasten it off neatly. For alternative method of casting-off, see General Instructions on Grafting. The glove above described is for the right hand. For the left hand make the following alteration : — Arrange the stitches for the part above the thumb thus : 1st needle. — Start at the 3rd stitch after the thumb, and use 18 stitches. 2nd needle. — The next 18 stitches. 3rd needle. — 14 stitches, then 6 stitches made along the inside of the thumb, then 2 stitches after the thumb. The decreasings described in the case of the right-hand glove will commence at the newly-made stitches. 5. KNITTED LACE EDGING. New Knitting Pattern taught for Woollen or Cotton Lace Edgings. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 17. Crochet Cotton, No. 30. Knitted Lace Edging. STANDARD VI. 171 Instructions. — The following knitted edging, and the crocheted lace edgings given under the Standard VII Syllabus, are useful for trimming underclothing made by the girls in needlework lessons, and also for trimming fancy and household articles. Cast on 10 stitches. 1st Row. — Plain. 2nd Row. — Knit 3, make 1 and knit 2 together three times in succession, make 1, knit 1. 3rd Row. — Knit plain, slipping the last stitch. 4th Row.—K. 4, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1. 5th Row. — The same as 3rd row. 6th Row. — K. 5, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1. 7th Row. — The same as 3rd row. 8th Row. — K. 6, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1. 9th Row. — The same as 3rd row. 10th Row. — K. 7, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1. 11th Row. — The same as 3rd row. 12th Row. — K. 8, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1. 13th Row. — Cast off 6 stitches, and finish knitting along the needle. It will be found that again there are 10 stitches to deal with. Repeat the pattern, commencing from the 2nd row, as many times as required. 6. BABY'S CROCHETED BONNET. More Difficult Variations of Pattern introduced. Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. 1 oz. of Single Berlin Wool or 4-ply wool. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 133. Baby's Crocheted Bonnet. 172 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — The bonnet described below will fit a baby of six months. It can be increased in size by working a longer chain to commence with and increasing the number of rounds before the turned-back border. Commence by making a loose chain of 16, or as many as will measure 3 in. in length. 1st Round, — Work double crochet along these 16 chain, putting 2 stitches into the last or corner stitch ; then continue to work d.c. along the other side of the chain, putting 2 stitches into the last stitch as before. N.B. — Take up the back strands of the stitches in the first two rounds. 2nd Round. — -Repeat the 1st round again, once more putting 2 d.c. into each corner stitch. A little oblong piece is thus formed, round which succeeding rows are worked. 3rd Round. — Work 3 tr. into the 1st stitch, * miss 2 stitches, and work 3 tr. into the next stitch. Repeat from " till one stitch before the corner is reached. When rounding the corner, instead of missing 2 stitches between the sets of trebles, miss 1 stitch only twice over. Proceed then as before, missing 2 stitches between the trebles, until the second corner is reached. Treat this in the same way as the first corner. Repeat this 3rd round ten more times, making 1 1 rounds of the trebles. This completes the part of the bonnet that fits the head. Proceed now with the turned-back border. 14th Row. — Proceed as in the 3rd round, until two sets of trebles past the corner have been worked ; in passing the corner this time, however, miss 2 stitches between the trebles, and not 1 as in preceding rounds. 15th Row. — Now, instead of working on, turn with 3 chain, and work back along the 14th row, until two sets of trebles past the second corner have been worked. Again miss 2 stitches between the trebles, and not 1 in passing the corner. 16th Row. — Again turn with 3 chain, and work as described under the 14th row. Repeat this row three times more. Now work the following edging completely round the turned-back border, and round the bottom of the bonnet where it fits to the neck : — Work 1 d.c. into a stitch, * chain 3, go back and make a d.c. into the first of the 3 ch., miss a stitch, and secure this picot by a d.c. into the next stitch. Repeat from * all round the bonnet, working, however, into one strand only of the edge of the bonnet. Now repeat this border of picots a second time round the bonnet, working this time into the opposite strand of the edge. A double row of edging is thus formed, one row of which turns up, and one down. {See Fig. 133.) Attach ribbon strings to the bonnet, and also place rosettes of ribbon on the ends of the turned-back border. 7. CROCHETED WOOLLEN HAT, WITH BRIM. Double Treble Stitch taught. Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook — medium size. 1J ot. of Single Berlin Wool, or 4-ply wool. Cost of hat, employing wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 5Jd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The hat described below will fit a child seven or eight years old. It can be quite easily decreased or increased in size by decreasing or increasing the number of rounds. STANDARD VI. 173 Crown of Hat. Commence at the centre of the top of the crown with 4 chain ; and join then to form a ring. Fig. 134. Crocheted Woollen Hat. 1st Round. — Work 2 d.c. into each stitch. (For convenience in determining the beginning of each new round, adopt the following plan : Mark the beginning Fig. 135. Crocheted Woollen Hat, with Brim. (Marking beginning of rows.) of the work with a firmly-fastened cotton of contrasting colour, and darn it in as shown in Fig. 135 to mark the beginning of each successive row.) 174 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 2nd Round. — Work 2 tr. into each stitch. 3rd Round. — Work 2 double tr. into each stitch. 4th Round. — * Work 2 d. tr. into the 1st stitch, and 1 d. tr. into the 2nd stitch. Repeat from * all the way round, doing 2 d. tr. and 1 d. tr. alternately. 5th Round. — * Work 2 d. tr. in 1st stitch, 1 d. tr. in 2nd stitch, and 1 d. tr. in 3rd stitch. Repeat from *, putting 2 d. tr. into every 3rd stitch and 1 d. tr. into the other stitches. 6th Round. — * Work 2 d. tr. into the 1st stitch, and 1 d. tr. into each of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th stitches. Repeat from * all the way round. 7th Round. — Work 1 d. tr. into every stitch all the way round. 8th and 9th Rounds. — Like the 7th round. 10th Round. — Like the 6th round. 11th Round. — Like the 7th round. 12th Round. — Work 1 d.c. into each stitch all the way round. 13th and 14th Rounds. — Like the 12th round. These three rows finish the crown of the hat. Brim of Hat. 1st Round. — Like the 6th round of the crown. 2nd Round. — * Work 2 d. tr. into 1st stitch, and 1 d. tr. into each of the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches, Repeat from * all the way round. 3rd Round. — Like 7th round of crown. 4th Round. — * Work 2 tr. into the 1st stitch, and 1 tr. into each of the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches. Repeat from * all round. 5th, 6th, and 1th Rounds. — Like the 12th, 13th, and 14th rounds of crown. This completes the brim, which should turn up slightly at the edges all the way round, as shown in the illustration. 8. CROCHETED PETTICOAT. New Pattern taught. Materials. — A Bone Crochet Hook — medium size. 3\ oz. 4-ply knitting wool. Cost, using wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. 0|d. (For other suitable wools and their costs, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The photograph and description are of a petticoat fitting a child of about two years, but, by varying the length, the same method may be employed in making a petticoat for a child of any size. Work 120 chain, or as many as will measure 30 in., the number selected to be divisible by 10. 1st Row. — 1 tr. into every stitch of the chain. (The back of the stitch is always to be taken up in order to produce a ridged appearance on the right side of the petticoat.) N. B. — Break off the wool at the end of this and the next six rows, i.e., until the bottom of the placket is reached. This enables all the working to be done on the right side of the petticoat. When the placket has been completed, the rows may be worked continuously round the petticoat. 2nd Row. — 1 tr. into each of the first 9 tr., * miss 1 tr., 1 tr. into each of the next 9 tr., repeat from * all along the row. 176 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 3rd Row. — Miss 1 st., * 1 tr. into each of the next 3 st., 3 tr. into next or middle stitch of group ; 1 tr. into each of the next 3 St., miss 2 St., repeat from * all along the row. Next 5 Rows. — Like last row. Do not break off the wool on completing the last row of the five. 9th Row.— In this row bring the two ends of the work together, and work straight round the petticoat. Miss 1 st., * 1 tr. on each of the next 3 st., 5 tr. into the next or middle stitch of the group, 1 tr. on each of the next 3 St., miss 2 st. Repeat from * all round. The number of trebles in each group has now been increased to 11. 10th Row. — Miss 1 St., * 1 tr. into each of the next 4 st., 3 tr. into the middle stitch of the group, 1 tr. into each of the next 4 st., miss 2 st. Repeat from * all round. Next 5 Rows. — Like 10th row. 16th Row. — A further increase is made in this row. Miss 1 st., * 1 tr. into each of the next 4 St., 5 tr. into the middle stitch of the group, 1 tr. into each of the next 4 st., miss 2 st. Repeat from * all round. 9. CROCHETED CURTAIN HOLDER. New Pattern taught. Materials. — Fine Bone Crochet Hook. Four balls of Silkateen (standard size) will make two Holders. The cost of the Silkateen at 2d. per ball will be 8d. " O-So-Silkie " and D.M.C. " Coton Perle " are equally suitable materials at the same price. Instructions. — Make a chain of the required length. 108 chain, giving a length of 22 in., was the number employed for the curtain holder shown in Fig. 138. If the length is varied, make a number of chain that is divisible by 6. 1st Row. — Chain 1, and work d.c. all along the chain. 2nd Row. — Chain 3 (to count as a treble), work 4 tr. into the first stitch, miss 2, 1 d,c. into next stitch, * miss 2, 5 tr. into next stitch, miss 2, 1 d.c. into next stitch. Repeat from * to the end of the row, finishing with a d.c. Repeat the 2nd row three more times. At the end of the 5th row, make 30 chain for one of the end loops, carry this chain across the end of the curtain -holder, and fix it at the opposite corner by a d.c. Now begin to work picots along the length of the first edge of the holder as follows : * Ch. 3, go back and make a d.c. into the first of the 3 ch., miss 2 stitches and secure picot by a d.c. into the following stitch. Repeat from * all along the first edge of the holder. Now chain 30 for the second loop, and carry this chain across the other end of the holder, securing it at the opposite corner by a d.c. Now continue the picots down the second long side of the holder. On reaching the end, work d.c. all round the 30 chain that were made for the 1st loop. Cut the thread and fasten the end in neatly. Lastly, join the cotton on again at the end of the second loop of 30 chain, and work d.c. all round this. Cut the thread, and finish off the work. Fig. 137. Crocheted Curtain Holder. 13— (815B) 178 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. io. CROCHETED SHAWL. New Pattern taught, and more Difficult Border introduced. Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook — large size. 10 oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost, using wool at 5s. per lb. = 3s. 1 £d. (For other varieties of suitable wool and their prices, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 138. Crocheted Shawl. Instructions. — Chain 180. (This will produce a shawl about 30 in. square. If the size is different, select a suitable number of stitches divisible by four.) 1st Row. — Take 2 treble into the fourth stitch of the chain, * miss 2 stitches, 1 d.c. into next stitch of chain, make 3 chain, 2 treble into next stitch ; repeat from * all along the row. 2nd Row. — Turn, work 3 chain, 2 treble into the first stitch, * then miss the 2 treble and 3 chain, and work a double crochet on the double crochet in the last row ; work 3 chain, 2 treble into next stitch ; repeat from * all along the row. Repeat the above row until a square is formed. Fig. 140 shows the details of pattern and border on a larger scale. The Border. 1st Row. — One treble into first stitch of side, * 2 chain, miss about 3 stitches along the edge of the shawl, 1 treble into the next stitch ; repeat from * all round the shawl. . 2nd Row.— Work the following group into the .bar of 2 chain left between the first 2 trebles : 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble. STANDARD VI. 179 * Miss the bar of 2 chain between the next 2 trebles, work another group of trebles like the one described into the next bar of 2 chain ; repeat from * all round. 3rd flow.— Work along with single stitch to the 2 chain in the middle of the first group of trebles. Into the 2 chain work the following group ; 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble (6 trebles in all). Repeat this group into the middle bar of each of the groups of the previous row Fig. 139. Corner of Shawl Enlarged to show Details of Pattern. 4th Row. — Work along with single stitch to the 2 chain in the middle of the first group of trebles in the previous row. Into the 2 chain work the following group : 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble (8 trebles in all). Repeat this group into the middle bars of all the groups in the previous row. When the last group has been worked, draw the wool through the first treble of the first group in order to finish off the corner, and fasten off the end left. If it is desired to make the shawl more ornamental, ribbon about £ in. wide may be run through the open-work portion between the shawl proper and the border. The size of the shawl may be increased by commencing with a larger number ■of chain, and also by using coarser wool and a larger hook. STANDARD VII. i (A). GLOVE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. To Teach the Method of Knitting Fingers. Materials.— Four needles— size 16. 2 oz. 4-ply Knitting Wool^ for one pair. Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 6d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Fig. 140. Glove for Girl's Own Wear. 180 STANDARD VII, - .., 181 Instructions. — Cast on 60 stitches, or as many as will produce the width required for the individual wearer. The number selected must be divisible by 2. For the Wrist. Knit 60 rounds of ribbing, k. 1, p. 1. For the Hand. 1st Round. — * K. 6, m. 1 (by knitting in the back of the last knitted stitch) ; repeat from * 9 times. There are now 70 stitches. Next 12 Rounds. — Plain. 14th Round. — This round commences the increasings for the thumb. K. 30, take up the thread between the last and next stitches and purl it, k. 40. (This is the plan to be followed for the left-hand glove. For the right-hand glove, k. 40, m. 1 and purl it, k. 30.) 15th Round.— K. 30, p. 1, k. 40. 16th Round. — K. 30, p: 1, m. 1 (by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch), p. 1, k. 39. 17th Round. — K. 30, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 39. 18th Round. — K, 30, p. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, p. 1, k. 39. 19th Round.—K. 30, p, 1, k. 3, p. 1, k. 39. 20th Round. — K. 30, p. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, p. 1, k. 39. 2\st Round. — K. 30, p. 1, k. 5, p. 1, k. 39. 22nd Round.- — K. 30, p. 1, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, p. 1. k. 39. Continue to increase in this way in alternate rows, until there are 13 plain stitches between the two purled stitches. Next 12 Rounds. — Knit these without increasing. They should brjng the knitr ting up to the root of the thumb. In the case of a girl with a small hand less than 12 rounds may be required. The number of rounds desirable should be ascertained by measuring the glove, while in progress, against the hand of the child for whom it is intended. For the Thumb. Take 2 plain stitches before the first purled stitch, both purled stitches, the 13 plain stitches in between, with 2 plain stitches beyond and arrange these 19 st. on three needles. Before joining into a ring cast on 8 new stitches. (The number of cast-on stitches may be reduced in the case of a child with a slender band.) Slip the hand stitches on to a piece of wool until the thumb is completed. 1st Round. Plain. 2nd Round. — Plain. 3rd Round. — Beginning with the newly cast-on stitches, k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end of the round. Next 2 Rounds.— Plain. 6th Round. — K. 1, k, 2 tog., k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end of the round. This leaves 23 stitches all round. Next. 32 Rounds. — Plain. (More or less than 32 rounds may be required. Ascertain this by measurement against, the thumb of the girl for whom the glove is intended. The knitting should reach just to the tip of the thumb before the decreasings are made.) 39th Round. — K. 2 tog. 11 times. 40th Round. — Plain. Break off the wool, and pass the remaining stitches on to the loose end left. Take this wool through to the wrong side, and finish neatly, 182 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. For the Part between the Thumb and Fingers. Pick up 11 new stitches from the part inside the thumb, and arrange all the stitches on three needles again. (If the number of stitches cast on inside the thumb was reduced, pick up a correspondingly smaller number of stitches here.) Commence each round with the new stitches. 1st Round. — K. 2 tog., k. 7, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end of the round. 2nd Round. — K. 2 tog., k. 5, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end. 3rd Round. — K. 2 tog., k. 3, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end. 4th Round. — K. 2 tog., k. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end. 5th Round. — S. 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over ; knit plain to the end. Next 20 Rounds. — Knit plain. (Again the number of rounds may be varied to fit a smaller or a larger hand. The number should be determined by taking the measurement from the root of the thumb to that of the first finger, and" making the knitting above the thumb measure this length.) Arrangement of Stitches for Fingers. The 19 stitches in the centre are to be used for the first finger. (In finding the centre of the round, regard the round as beginning in the same position as the first round at the wrist.) For the second finger the next 9 stitches at the back, and the next 9 at the front of the glove are used. Pass these 18 stitches on to a piece of wool. For the third finger pass 9 stitches from the back, and 8 stitches from the front of the glove on to another piece of wool. For the fourth finger pass the remaining 12 stitches on to a piece of wool. First Finger. Arrange the 19 stitches on three needles, but before joining, cast on 7 new stitches. Commence each round with the new stitches. 1st Round. — K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end of the round. 2nd Round. — Plain. 3rd Round. — K. 1, s. 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, knit plain to the end. Next 40 Rounds. — Plain. (Vary this number of rounds to suit the length of the finger.) Then finish as in thumb. Second Finger. Take up 7 new stitches from the side of the first finger, then the 9 stitches from the back of the glove ; next cast on 7 new stitches ,- then take up the 9 stitches from the front of the glove. Arrange them all on three needles. 1st Round. — Commencing with the cast-on stitches, k. 1, k. 2 tog. k 1 k 2 tog., k. 11, k. 2 tog., k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 10. 2nd Round. — Plain. 3rd Round. — K. 1, s. 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, k. 11, s. 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, k. 10. Next 42 Rounds. — Plain. (Vary this number of rounds to fit the finger.) Finish as in thumb. STANDARD VII. 183 Third Finger. Pick up 7 new stitches from the side of the second finger ; then the 9 stitches from the back of the glove ; then cast on 7 new stitches, and take up the 8 stitches from the front of the glove. Arrange them all on three needles. Narrow off the two sets of 7 stitches in the same way as described for the second finger, until 23 stitches remain. Next 40 Rounds. — Plain. (Vary this number of rounds to fit the finger.) Finish as in thumb. Fourth Finger, Pick up 8 new stitches from the inside of the third finger. Arrange these and the 12 remaining stitches on three needles. Knit 35 rounds, or so, plain, and finish as in thumb. i(b). MITTEN FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR, Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 16. 1J oz. of 4-ply wool for one pair. Cost, using wool at 3s. 1 Id. per lb. = 4 £d. Instructions. — Knit as described above under " Glove " with the following variations : — (1) When half the thumb has been knitted, change to ribbing of k. 1, p. 1. Do J in. of this, and cast off. (Second method, General Instructions.) (2) In knitting the part between the thumb and fingers, continue as in the glove until within. £ in. of the base of the fingers. Then knit this last J in. in ribbing of k. 1, p. 1. Cast off, employing second method. 2. BABY'S KNITTED COAT. New Pattern introduced. Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 6 or 7. 1\ oz. of white 4-ply wool. Tota cost, employing wool at 5s. 3d. per lb. = lid. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The coat described below will fit a baby of six months old and over. If coarser needles are employed, a, larger coat may be produced by following the same instructions. The pattern described below looks well on either side, though the one selected for the right side in the photograph is the more ornamental. The appearance of the reverse side of the knitting is seen in the illustration in the small portion of the inside visible at the neck. Right Half Front. Cast on 36 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 5J in. of ribbed knitting without stretching. Employ second method described in General Instructions, as a firm edge is desirable. Knit 14 rows of knit 2, purl 2 ribbing, slipping the commencing stitch of every row after the first. \5th Row. — K. 1, * m. 1, k. 2 tog. ; repeat from * and knit the last stitch. This will produce a row of holes through which ribbon will be run. 16th Row. — Knit plain. 17th Row. — * K. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Repeat the 16th and 17th rows alternately until 8 in. of knitting has been STANDARD VII. 185 done. Finish with a row of k. 1, p. 1. The 14 rows of ribbing at the bottom will be included in the 8 in. Now narrow to produce a shaped armhole as follows : — 1st Row. — K. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., then knit plain all along the row. 2nd Row. — * K. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all along the row. 3rd Row. — Like 1st row of armhole. 4th Row. — Like 2nd row of armhole. 5th Row. — Like 1st row of armhole. The stitches are now reduced to 30. Work eight more rows of the pattern on these 30 stitches, a row of k. 1, p. 1 alternating with a row of plain knitting. At the commencement of the next row, which is a k. 1, p. 1 row, cast off 16 stitches for the neck, leaving 14 for the shoulder. Knit 12 rows of the pattern on these 14 stitches, and then cast off. Left Half of Front. The left half of the front will be knitted in the same way as the right half, except for the following points : — (1) The narrowings for the armhole will be done at the end of a plain knitting row, instead of at the beginning. (2) The casting-off for the neck is done at the commencement of a plain knitting row, instead of at the beginning of a k. 1, p. 1 row. Back of Coat. Cast on 64 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 9J in. of ribbed knitting without stretching. Again employ second method of casting-on. Knit 14 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing, slipping the commencing stitch of every row after the first. 15th Row. — Like the 15th row of front. 16th and 11th Rows. — Like the 16th and 17th rows of front. Repeat the 16th and 17th rows alternately, until 8 in. of knitting has been done. Finish with a row of k. 1, p. 1. Now narrow for the armholes as follows : — 1st Row. — K. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., knit plain all along the row until last four stitches are reached. Then k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog. 2nd Row. — K. 1, p. 1 all along row. 3rd Row.-. — Like the 1st row of narrowing. The stitches are now reduced to 56. Knit 14 more rows of the pattern without further decreasings, and then cast off. Sleeves. Each sleeve is made as follows : Cast on 36 stitches. Knit 7 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing to form the little turned-back cuff. Change now to alternate rows of plain knitting, and k. 1, p. 1, to produce the same pattern as in' fronts and back. Continue this pattern until 7 in. has been knitted altogether, including the k. 2, p. 2 for wrist. Finish with a k. 1, p. 1 row. Now narrow for the shaped top of the sleeve in the following manner : — 1st Row. — K. 2 tog., knit plain all along row till the last two stitches are reached ; then k. 2 tog. 2nd Row. — K. 2, p. 1, * k. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all along the row, finishing ■with 2 p. stitches. 3rd Row. — Like 1st row of narrowing. 4th Row. — K. 1, p. 1 all along row. Repeat these four rows three times more. There should now be 20 stitches on the needle. Cast off. 186 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Making up. — Sew up the side seams of the coat, and also the sleeve seams, on the wrong side, as far as the armhole curves. Sew up the shoulders. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, putting the sleeve seam about 1 in. to the front of the under-arm seam. Crochet the following edging down both front pieces and round the neck : * Work 1 d.c. into a stitch, miss 1, 5 tr. into the next stitch, miss 1. Repeat from *. If desired, this border may also be worked round the turned-back cuffs of the sleeves. Run ribbon through the holes round the waist, and through the holes formed in the crochet edging round the top. (See Fig. 141.) 3. BABY'S BOOTEES. Stitches Already Learned employed in Article of more Difficult Construction. Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1 oz. of White Andalusian Wool will knit one pair. Cost, employing wool at 4s. 3d. per lb. = 3 Jd. (For other qualities of Andalusian wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — The Bootee described below will fit a baby of from four to eight months. Leg of Bootee. Commence at the top of the leg along GH by casting on 54 stitches, or as many as will produce the width required to fit the individual wearer. The number selected must be divisible by 2. Knit 10 rows, or J in., of k. 1, p. 1 ribbing, always slipping the commencing stitch of each row after the first. 11/A Row. — Slip a stitch, * k. 1, m. 1 (by bringing wool forward under the point of the right-hand needle and over it again to the back), k. 2 tog. Repeat from *, knitting 2 stitches plain at the end of the row. 12th, 13th, and Uth Rows.— Knit plain. 15th Row. — The same as the 11th row. 16th, Uth, and 18th Rows. — Knit plain. The dotted lines in Fig. 142 indicate the decorative pattern in holes in the leg portion. Rows 18 to 38. — 1£ in. of ribbed knitting of k. 1, p. 1. 39th Row— Like 11th row. Rows 40, 41, and 42. — Knit plain. 43rd Row. — Like 1 1th row. Rows 44, 45, and 46. — Knit plain. 47th Row. — Like 11th row. Rows 48, 49, and 50. — Knit plain. 51st Row. — Like 11th row. 52nd Row. — Knit plain. 53rd Row. — Commence to narrow for the ankle as follows : K. 12, k. 2 tog.. k. 12, k. 2 tog., k. 12, k. 2 tog., and knit the remaining 12. The stitches are now reduced to 51. 54th Row. — Knit plain. 55th Row. — Like 11th row. 56th Roiv. — Knit plain. STANDARD VII. 187 51th Row.r- Narrow again for the ankle as follows : K. 11, k. 2 tog., k. 11, K. I tog., k. 11, k. 2 tog., knit the remaining 12. The stitches are now reduced to 48. 3* -li"-- NSTEP. LEG. G<- ->H Fig. 142. Baby's Bootee. (Leg and Instep only.) 58th Row. — Knit plain. 59th Row.— Like 11th Row. 60th Row. — Knit plain. Gist Row. — Narrow the last time, as follows : K. 11, k. 2 tog., k. 10, k. 2 tog., k. 10, k. 2 tog., and knit the remaining 11. The stitches are now reduced to 45. Rows 61 to 67. — Knit plain for \ in. Foot of Bootee. (a) Instep. — Commence knitting for the instep as follows : Pass the 15 stitches from A to B on to a piece of wool. (See Diagram.) Knit the next 15 stitches plain. 188 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. and then pass the stitches from C to D on to a second piece of wool. Now turn the work round, and do plain knitting backwards and forwards on the 15 stitches from C to B until 44 rows, or 2 in., have been knitted for the instep. Break off the wool, leaving an end which must be darned in strongly and neatly afterwards. Leave the 15 stitches standing, for the present, on the instep needle. Baby's (6) Lower part of foot. — Now arrange the stitches for the sole of the foot as follows : On another knitting needle take up the 15 stitches on the wool from A to B ; next take up the 22 loops or stitches along the right-hand side of the instep, from B to E ; slip on to the same needle the 15 stitches from E to F which were left standing from the instep ; take up the 22 stitches along the left-hand side of the instep from F to C, and finally take up the 15 stitches left on the wool from C to D. This rather difficult operation will bring 89 stitches all on one needle. Join on the wool at the commencement of this needle, and work as follows : — STANDARD VII. 189' 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Rows. — Knit plain. 5th Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 11, k. 2 tog., k. 37. This reduces the stitches _to 87. 6th Row. — Knit plain. 7th Row. — K. 37, k. 2 tog., k, 9, k. 2 tog., k. 37. This reduces the stitches to 85. 8th Row. — Knit plain. 9th Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 7, k. 2 tog., k. 37. This reduces the stitches to 83. 10th Row. — Knit plain. Uth Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 5, k. 2 tog., k. 37. The stitches will now number 81. 12th Row. — Knit plain. 13th Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 3, k. 2 tog., k. 37. The stitches are 79 in number 14th Row. — Knit plain. 15th Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 37. The stitches now number 77 16th Row. — Knit plain. 17*A Row. — K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 38. The stitches now number 76. 18th Row. — Knit 76 plain. 19th Row.—K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 32, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., k. 32, k. 2 tog., k. 2. Stitches now number 72. 20th Row. — Knit plain. 21st Row. — K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 30, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., k. 30, k. 2 tog., k. 2.. Stitches now number 68. 22nd Row. — Knit plain. 23rd Row.—K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 28, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., k. 28, k. 2 tog., k. 2.. Stitches now number 64. 24th Row. — Knit plain, and then cast off. Making up. — Sew the little bootee neatly together on the wrong side. Run ribbons through the holes at the ankle and the holes near the top of the leg. Tie- the ribbons with bows in front. 4. BABY'S ORNAMENTAL SILK SOCK. Difficult Knitting Pattern introduced, suitable only for the most- Advanced Scholars. Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 17. Two balls D.M.C. " Coton Perle '' — - No. 8. Cost = 4d. Instructions. — This sock fits a child of about one year. Cast on 68 stitches. Welt. Knit 30 rounds of ribbing, k. 2, p. 2. Leg. 1st Round. — Knit plain, but make two additional stitches at some distance - from each other, to bring the number up to 70, as the number of stitches for this, pattern must be divisible by 14. 2nd Round. — Plain. 3rd Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass slip stitch over the knit stitch, p. 4,. k. 2, p. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. -190 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 4th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass slip stitch over the knit stitch, p. 3, k. 2, p. 2, k. 3, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 5th Round.—* P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 2, k. 2, p. 2, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. Fig. 144. Baby's Ornamental Silk Sock. 6th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2, p. 2, k. 5, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 1th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, p. 2, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 8th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, k. 1, p. 2, k. 7, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 9th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 2, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. STANDARD VII. 191 10th Round. — * P. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 2, k. 9, p. 1. Repeat Jrom * all round. 11th Round.—* P. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 5, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 12th Round. — * P. 1, k. 3, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 4, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 13th Round.—* P. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 3, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. Uth Round. — * P. 1, k. 5, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 15th Round.—* P. 1, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 16th Round. — * P. 1, k. 7, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, k. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 17th Round.—* P. 1, k. 3,' in. 1, k.- 1, m. 1, k. 3, p. 2, k. 1, «. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. 18th Round. — * P. 1, k. 9, p. 2, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1. Repeat from * all round. The last 16 rounds form the lyre pattern. Repeat this pattern 3£ more times, and the heel will be reached. "The Heel. Arrange the first 29 stitches of the round on one needle for the heel. On these, knit a Dutch Heel as described in the rules for knitting and turning heels. (See under 6 (a), St. V.) In preparation for the foot take up 15 stitches on each side of the heel. (For full description of this process, see under 6 (b), St. V.) Arrangement of Stitches for Foot. One side needle. — 5 of the stitches left on the heel needle +14 stitches taken up along the side of the heel. The other side needle. — 4 stitches from the heel needle + 15 stitches taken up along the other side of the heel. Front or Instep needle. — 39 remaining stitches + 1 stitch at the end of the needle from the 15 taken up along the side of the heel. Decreasings of Foot. 1st Round. — Front needle. In the case of this needle, the pattern will be continued right up to the decreasings for the toe. The two side needles — plain. 2nd Round. — Front needle. Pattern continued. First side needle. — K. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end. Second side needle. — Knit till only 3 stitches remain on the needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Repeat the above two rounds alternately until only 15 stitches remain upon each of the side needles. (In the case of each decreasing on the first side needle, the " Pulling-over " method of decreasing may be employed. See General Instructions.) Straight Portion of Foot. Continue without further decreasings until the pattern has been repeated 2J times from the commencement of the foot. Decreasings at Toe. ■■■ f Place half of the total number of stitches on the front needle,- and half on the two back needles. Discontinue, the pattern. 192 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 1st Round. — K. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain until only 3 st. remain on the front needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1. K. 1 stitch of first back needle, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end. Knit along second back needle until only 3 st. remain, k. 2 tog., k. 1. (In the case of the first decreasing of each pair, the " Pulling-over " method may be used.) Next 2 Rounds. — Plain. Repeat the above three rounds sevei times more. Then narrow similarly, in alternate rounds, until 9 stitches remain on the front needle, and also on the two back needles together. Cast off as follows : — Turn the sock wrong side out, and put the stitches from the two back needles all on to one needle. Knit 2 stitches together, one from the back and one from the front needle ; knit another 2 together in the same manner ; pass the first resulting stitch over the second ; knit 2 together as before, and continue the pro- cess as described until only one stitch remains on the needle. Break off the wool, draw it through, and fasten off neatly. For " Grafting Off," see General Instructions. 5. CROCHETED EGG-COSY. New Pattern taught ; Practice in the Choice of Suitable Colours for Blending. Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. Single Berlin Wool of two shades. 1 oz. of wool will make three cosies. The cost of three cosies will thus be about 3£d. Fig. 145. Crocheted Egg-Cosy. Instructions. — Commence with the darkest shade of wool. Work 22 chain rather loosely, and join to form a ring. The chain should measure about 7 in. in length. If STANDARD VII. 193 finer or coarser wool be employed, vary the number of chain accordingly, but let the number of stitches selected be divisible by 2. 1st Row. — Work 3 chain (to count as a treble), and 3 tr. into the first St., take out the hook, insert it in the top of the first tr. [i.e., through the top of the 3 ch. which form the first tr.), and draw the last stitch through it (see Fig. 147 for enlarged illustration of stitch). 1 tr. into the next st., *4 tr. into next st. (as before, drawing the last stitch through the top of the first tr.), 1 tr. into next st. Repeat from * all round the ring. There will be 1 1 sets of 4 tr. and 1 1 single tr. Join the last tr. to the first set of 4 tr. by a single stitch, thus completing the ring. 2nd Row. — 3 chain to form a single treble, and 3 tr. into first hole (as before, draw the last st. through the top of the first of the set of 4 tr.), 1 tr. into next hole. * 4 tr. into next hole (again drawing last st. through top of first), 1 tr. into next hole. Repeat from * all the way round. Fig. 146. Method of Working in Crocheted Egg-Cosy. Repeat the second row four times more, or for as many rows as are required of the darker shade. Break off the wool. Join on with the lighter shade. (See General Instructions.) Work three rows in this shade, or a sufficient number to make the work 3£ in. in height. Now close in the top of the egg-cosy as follows : Work 1 d.c. into each hole all the way round, drawing each stitch rather tightly. Flatten the cosy, and join together the tops of these d.c.'s by a row of single stitch to form the closed top of the cosy. Before breaking off the wool, make a little handle as follows : Make 12 ch., carry the end of this chain across to the other corner of the closed top, and secure it by a single stitch. Now thicken this handle by working a d.c. into each st. of the chain. Secure this end also to the opposite end of the top of the cosy by a single st. Break off the wool, and darn the end in neatly. jV § p. The cosy can be worked in one shade of wool only, or in three shades. If three shades are employed, the bottom three rows should be in the darkest shade, the middle three in the medium, and the top three in the palest shade. 13— (815E) 194 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 6. CROCHETED TEA-COSY. Further Practice in Egg-Cosy Pattern, and in the Choice of Artistic Colours for Blending. Materials. — Coarse Bone Crochet Hook. Double Berlin Wool ofj six shades. 6 oz. will make two cosies. The cost of two cosies, employing wool at 4s. 6d. per lb., is Is. 9d. Fig. 147. Crocheted Tea Cosy. Instructions. — Commence with the darkest shade of wool. Work 36 chain rather loosely, and join to form a ring. The chain should measure 18 in. If a cosy of a different size is required, let the number of chain selected be divisible by 4. See note at the end. 1st Row. — Work 3 ch. (to count as a tr.) and 3 tr. into the first st. — take out the hook, insert it in the top of the first tr. (i.e., through the top of the 3 ch. which form the first tr.), and draw the last st. through it, 1 tr. into the next St., * 4 tr. into next st. (as before, drawing the last st. through top of first tr.), 1 tr. into next st. Repeat from * all round the ring. There will be 18 sets of 4 tr., and 18 single tr. Join the last tr. to the first set of 4 tr. by a single stitch, thus completing the ring. 2nd Row. — 3 ch. to form a single tr., and 3 tr. into first hole (as before, draw the last st. through top of first of the set of 4 tr.), 1 tr. into next hole, * 4 treble into next hole (again drawing the last stitch through the top of first tr.), 1 tr. into Cutting Out for Student Teachers By AMY K. SMITH Diplomee of the London Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework ; Spe- cialist under the London County Council and at the Day Training College, Moor- fields ; Examiner in Dressmaking and Needlework to the City and Guilds of London Institute ; late of St. Gabriel's College, Kennington, S.E. The book contains upwards of 260 pages, Quarto size, and is illustrated with over 360 Diagrams. Price 5s. net. The Schoolmistress says : " The book is profusely illustrated, and affords every conceivable help to those for whom it is written. We can most heartily recommend it." Needlework for Student Teachers (FOR ALL TEACHERS AND STUDENTS OF THE SUBJECT) By the Same Author. The book contains 260 pages, demy Svo, and is illustrated with upwards of 200 illustrations. It has recently been revised, rearranged, and repaged. Price 4s. net. The Schoolmaster says : "A most exhaustive manual, the style being in advance of any work on the subject we have hitherto seen." Blackboard Diagram Drawing for Teachers of Needlecraft By ETHEI R. HAMBRIDGE Trained Certificated Teacher ; Art Teacher's Certificate ; Diplombe (Gold Seat) of the London Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework. Foolscap 4to, cloth, with 7 full-page coloured plates and nearly 300 black and white illustrations and diagrams, 3s. 6d. net. This work is not only a useful collection of diagrams, but contains as many practical hints as to their effective enlargement on the blackboard for class teaching ; and should prove most valuable, not only to the Evening School Teacher in training, but, also, to those who are actually engaged in teaching the various subjects included under the heading of Needlecraft. The diagrams are carefully graded. Handwork and Needlework By E. P. CLAYDON Head Mistress Chuckery Council School, Walsall. In demy Svo, cloth, 96 pages, with very many diagrams and patterns, 2s. net. This book embodies in a practical form the suggestions for the teaching of needle- work recently issued by the Board of Education in Circular 730. The educational value of Needlework as a form of Handicraft for girls is specially dealt with. The drafting of patterns is not confined to a few garments for girls in the higher standards, but forty-eight- patterns to scale are given, graded in difficulty for children from 7 to 14 years of age. London : Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., 1 Amen Corner, E.C. STANDARD VII. 195 next hole. Repeat from * all the way round. Break off the wool, leaving an end about 3 in. long for fastening off. This starts the opening for the handle. 3rd Row. — Join on the next shade lighter, make 3 ch. into hole in front of set of 4 tr. (this counts as a tr.), * 4 tr. into next hole, worked as in previous rows, 1 tr. into next hole. Repeat from * half-way round the ring, finishing with 1 tr. There will be 9 sets of 4 tr. and 10 single tr., counting the 3 ch. at the commencement as 1 tr. Break off the wool to form the opening for the spout. Join on again in next hole, make 3 ch., and work exactly as in the first half of the row, but, at the end, after working the 4 tr., the single tr. must be put into the same hole as the last 4 tr. Break off the wool. 4th Row. — Commence with 3 ch. into first hole to count as a tr., and also 4 tr. into first hole, * 1 tr. into second hole, 4 tr. into third hole. (Notice that in this row the single tr. comes first, and the 4 tr. comes second. This is necessary to keep the edges of the cosy straight.) Repeat from * along the first half of the row, finishing with a single tr. Break off the wool. The second half of the row is worked in the same way as the first. Each half of this row and every succeeding one must have 9 sets of 4 tr. in it. 5th Row. — Join on the next shade lighter. Work as 3rd row. At the end of each half-row, a single tr. must be put into the last hole, as well as the 4 tr. 6th Row. — Like the 4th row. 1th Row. — Join on next shade. Work as 5th row. 8th Row. — Join on next shade. Work as 4th row. 9th Row. — Join on next shade. Work as 5th row. Do not break off the wool, but join the end of the 9th row with the beginning by a single stitch into the top of the first tr. 10th Row. — 3 ch. to form a tr., then 1 tr. into each hole all the way round. Join the last tr. to the first (i.e., the 3 ch.) This row forms a beading for drawing up the cosy. 11th Row. — This commences the border. With the same wool * work 6 ch., miss a hole, 1 d.c. into next hole. Repeat from * all round the top. Break off the wool. 12th Row. — -Join on a darker shade, just where the 11th row commenced. "Work 6 ch., make 1 d.c. into the same hole as previous row. Repeat all the way round as in 1 1th row. A third row of loops may be worked in a still darker shade if desired, making a triple border. Draw up the cosy with ribbon, or by means of a crocheted woollen chain with tassels attached to the ends. N.B. — The Cosy described above will fit a teapot holding 1£ pts. If a larger size is required, increase the length of the chain by four, or by any multiple of four, and also increase the number of rows. A Coffee Pot Cosy may be worked in a similar pattern to the Egg and Teapot Cosies, varying the size and shape as required. 7(a). CROCHETED PERAMBULATOR COVER. Stitches Already Learned Applied to Crocheting an Article Larger than those Previously Made. Materials. — A Bone Crochet Hook — large size. About 12 oz. Cream or White Double Knitting Coat Wool. Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 3s. (exclusive of ribbon). (For other qualities of double knitting wool, see under Woolcraft.) 196 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Instructions. — Make a sufficient number of chain to extend the length of the cover required, remembering that extra stitches must be allowed for the turn-back portion. The number chosen should be divisible by 11. In the case of the one photographed, it was 132 chain, and the length measured 36 in. 1st Row.—* 1 tr. into each of the first 9 ch. miss 2 st. ; repeat from * to the end of the chain made. In every case the back of the stitch is to be taken up, Fig. 148. Crocheted Perambulator Cover. so that the whole rug has a ridged appearance when completed. Break off the wool, leaving an end which is to be neatly finished off on the wrong side of the rug. 2nd Row. — Beginning at the same end and on the same side as was done in the previous row, miss 1 St., * 1 tr. into each of the next 3 st., 3 tr. into next st., 1 tr. into each of the next 3 St., miss 2 st., repeat from * to the end of the row. Break off the wool as before. This is done at the end of each row in order that all the rows STANDARD VII. 197 may be started at the same end and on the same side of the rug. All the ridges produced then stand out on the right side. Continue to work rows like the 2nd row described above until the cover is of the width required. In the case of the one shown in Fig. 148, the number of rows was 36, and the width was 27 in. Neatly finish off all ends on the wrong side, remembering that, in the case of the turned-back portion, the sides will be reversed. Border. Commence in the first stitch of one of the long sides. Join on ; make 3 ch. (to serve as 1 tr.), and 5 tr. into the first stitch, ch. 2, 1 d.c. into the fifth or middle stitch of the first group of 9, ch. 2, 6 tr. into the hole left between the first two groups of 9, * ch. 2, 1 d.c. into the middle stitch of the next group, ch. 2, 6 tr. into the hole between the next two groups ; repeat from * all round the rug. In working along the ends it will be necessary to judge the spaces between the groups of trebles, as there will be no holes to serve as a guide. Finish off the cover by running ribbon through the rows of holes that go across it, making little bows at the corners. 7(B). CROCHETED COT COVER. Materials. — Large Bone Crochet Hook. 1 lb. 5 oz. of Double Knitting Wool. Cost, employing wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 5s. 2d. Instructions. — Employ the same pattern as that described above under Peram- bulator Cover. Make the cover about 35 in. wide, and 50 in. long. To ascertain the exact dimensions required, measure the cot for which the cover is intended. 7(c). CROCHETED SOFA RUG. Materials. — Large Bone Crochet Hook. If lb. of Double Knitting Wool. Cost, employing wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 6s. lid. Instructions. — Again employ the same pattern as for the Perambulator Cover. Make the rug about If yds. long and 1 yd. wide. To ascertain its exact size, measure the sofa for which it is required, and allow a convenient margin. 8. CROCHETED HUG-ME-TIGHT. New Pattern taught. Materials. — A Large Bone Crochet Hook. 6 oz. of 4-ply wool. Three Pearl Buttons. Cost, using wool at 3s. 2d. per lb. = Is. 4d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) Instructions. — Back. The work is commenced at the bottom of the back along the line marked AB in the diagram. Chain 72, or a length to produce crocheting measuring 10 in. 1st Row. — * Miss 4 ch., 2 tr. into next stitch, chain 2, 2 tr. into next stitch. Repeat from * all along the row. There should be in all 12 groups, each consisting of 2 tr., 2 ch., 2 tr. 2nd Row. — Turn with 3 ch. which will count as 1 tr., 1 tr. into the first stitch of the row. (The 3 chain and the treble will form half a group, and another half 13A— (8l5B) 198 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. group will be made at the end of the row, so that the 12 groups which form each row shall be completed), 2 tr. into the hole formed between the two last groups Fig. 149. Crocheted Hug-Me-Tight. of the previous row, 2 ch., 2 tr. into the same hole, * 2 tr. into the next hole between two groups, 2 ch., 2 tr. into the same hole. Repeat from * all along the STANDARD VII. 19& row, and then work 2 tr. on the very last stitch of the row. These 2 tr. form the half group previously mentioned. Fig. 150. Hug-Me-Tight or Woollen Waistcoat in Crochet. Front View. 3rd Row. — Work with single stitch until the first hole between groups is reached. Then chain 3 to serve as a treble, 1 tr. into the hole, 2 ch., 2 tr. into the same hole ; * 2 tr. into the next hole, 2 ch., 2 tr. into the same hole. Repeat from * all along the row. There should be 12 complete groups in this row as in the first row. 200 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. Now repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows alternately until 14 rows have been done in all. 15th Row. — In this row an increase is made as follows : Work two groups of trebles as usual, but when the third hole is reached, work into it 6 tr. with 2 ch. between each of the pairs, instead of the usual 4 tr. ; then make the groups as usual into all the other holes until the tenth hole is reached ; work into this a similar group to that worked into the third hole. Complete the row in the usual way. IQth Row. — In this row work an additional group into each of the two groups of six trebles made in the previous row, by making a cluster into each of the holes formed by 2 chain. All the other groups in the row will be worked as usual, so that there will now be 14 groups in the row. Now continue to work these longer rows of 14 groups until 35 rows, or 12 in., have been worked in all. This completes the back. Right Shoulder and Front. Work 5 groups of the 36th row, and then turn round and work back along these 5 groups. Continue working these short rows until 15 rows, each consisting of 5 groups, have been worked. IQth Row. — The first increasing for the front is made in this row. Wore 3 groups of trebles in the usual way, but, when the fourth hole is reached, work 6 trebles into it as described in the increasings of the back. Work the fifth group in the usual way. nth Row. — In this row work an additional group into the group of 6 trebles, by making a group in each of the holes formed by 2 chain. There will now be 6 groups in the row. Work 6 more rows each consisting of 6 groups. 2Ath Row. — Increase again as before. Then work 7 rows of 7 groups. 32nd Row. — Increase again in exactly the same way as in the 16th row. Work 7 rows with 8 groups in each row, or as many as will make up a length of 15 in. from the commencement of the shoulder. This completes the right front as far as the line DC of diagram. Left Shoulder and Front. Work this on exactly the same principle as the right shoulder and front until the line FE is reached. As in the case of the right front, the increasings should be made near the ends of the rows, farthest from the armhole. Border. By means of the border, the jacket may be adapted to suit a stout or slim figure For a slim figure as few as two rows of the border may be worked, and for a stout figure as many as six rows. The hug-me-tight shown in the photograph is made to suit a figure with an outside waist measurement of 26 in., and the border for this size consists of four rows, i.e., 1£ in. 1st Row. — Two d.c. into the hole formed by the 2 chain in the middle of the first group, * 3 chain, 2 d.c. into the hole in the middle of the next group. Repeat from * round the whole of the jacket as indicated by the dotted line in the diagram. Repeat the 2 d.c. twice into the hole at each of the corners. 2nd Row. — Three tr. into each of the holes formed by the 3 ch. of previous row, and 2 ch. between each group of 3 tr. Repeat the 3 tr. twice in the hole STANDARD VII. 201 at each of the corners. In working along the back of the neck, draw in the work by making 1 ch. instead of 2 ch. between each group of 3 tr. 3rd Row. — Like last row, placing a group of 3 tr. into each of the holes formed by the 2 chain. 4th Row. — * Two tr. into a hole, 2 chain, 2 tr. into the same hole. Repeat from * all round the hug-me-tight. Fig. 151. Hug-Me-Tight or Woollen Waistcoat in Crochet. Back View. (Reduced Scale.) Making up. — Fold the garment so that the point K lies over the point G, and the point J over the point H, and sew up the side seams on the wrong side of the garment, for a sufficient distance to leave convenient openings for the armholes. Turn the garment on to the right side and sew three buttons on the left-hand side of the front opening at its lower end. The holes formed by the pattern of the border may be used as button-holes. 202 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. 9. FIRST LACE EDGING IN CROCHET. (FOR TRIMMING UNDERWEAR, AND FANCY ARTICLES.) Simple Pattern in Crochet Cotton taught. Materials. — Steel Crochet Hook — size 5. Crochet Cotton, No. 24. Instructions. — Commence with 7 chain. 1st Row. — Turn with 8 chain, 1 tr. into the 7th chain, (i.e., into the last of the foundation chain), 3 ch., 1 tr. into same stitch, 3 ch., miss 2, 1 tr. into next St., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 tr. into first stitch of chain. 2nd Row. — Turn with 6 ch., 1 tr. on top of last treble but one in previous row, 3 ch., 1 tr. on next tr., 5 tr. into space, and 1 tr. into next tr. (thus making a group of 7 tr.), 3 ch. and 1 tr. into the 3rd of the group of chain at the commencement of the previous row. Fig. 152. First Lace Edging in Crochet. 3rd Row. — Turn with 6 ch., 1 tr. on to the first tr. of the group of 7 tr., 3 ch. and 1 tr. into the same st., 3 ch. 1 tr. on to the middle of the 7 tr., 3 ch. 1 tr. on to the last of the 7 tr. Repeat the second and third rows alternately, until the desired length has been obtained. 10. SECOND LACE EDGING IN CROCHET. More Difficult Pattern taught. Materials. — Steel Crochet Hook — size 5. Crochet Cotton, No. 24. Instructions. — Commence with 10 chain. 1st Row. — Turn with 5 ch., work 3 tr. into the 10th ch., (i.e., into the last of the foundation chain), miss 2 ch., * 3 tr. into next ch., miss 2, and repeat from *. This results in four sets of 3 tr. 2nd Row. — Turn with 5 ch., make a d.c. into space between the two last sets of trebles in the previous row, * make 5 ch. and a d.c. into next space. Repeat from *. This results in four sets of 5 ch. In attaching the last 5 ch., pass the hook through the middle stitch of the 5 ch. of the previous row. Do this in every row which ends with 5 ch. in order to produce a firm and regular edge. 3rd Row. — Turn with 5 ch., make a d.c. into first hole, * 5 ch. and a d.c. into STANDARD VII. 203 next hole. Repeat from *. This makes four sets of 5 ch. Now make 6 ch., and attach with a d.c. into the hole where the last set of 4 tr. was placed in the 1st row of the pattern. 4th Row. — Turn round, and work 3 tr. and a d.c. three times in succession into this ch. of 6. This forms the edge of the pattern. Work 5 ch. and a d.c. into each succeeding space. Fig. 153. Second Lace Edging in Crochet. 5th Row. — Turn with 5 ch., and work 3 tr. into each space of the preceding row, thus producing four sets of tr. as in the 1st row. Repeat from the commencement of the 2nd row, until the desired length has been worked. ii. THIRD LACE EDGING IN CROCHET. Harder Alternative Pattern. Materials. — Steel Crochet Hook — size 5. Crochet Cotton, No. 24. Fig. 154. Third Lace Edging in Crochet. Instructions. — Commence with 12 ch. 1st Row. — Turn with 3 ch. to form a tr., 1 tr. into 12th ch. (i.e., into the last of the foundation ch.), 1 tr. into 11th ch., ch. 2, miss 2 ch., 1 tr. into 8th ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into the 7th ch., miss 2 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. 204 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS. into 4th ch., miss 2 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into 1st stitch of foundation chain. 2nd Row. — Make 5 ch., and work a single crochet (see General Instructions) into the first of these 5 ch. Repeat this 5 ch. and single cr. into the first of the chain, twice more. (This forms three picots and makes an edging to the lace.) Work 1 d.c. into first space in preceding row, 3 ch., 1 d.c. into next space, miss next hole (which comes between two sets of 3 tr.), 3 ch. and 1 d.c. into each of tne next two spaces, miss next hole, 3 ch. and 1 d.c. into each of the next two spaces (making five sets of 3 ch.), 1 tr. on the tr. in previous row, 2 ch., 1 tr. on each of the 3 tr. of 1st row. 3rd Row. — Turn with 3 ch. to form a tr., 1 tr. on each of the next 2 tr. of pre- ceding row, 2 ch., 1 tr. on next tr., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into hole formed by 3 ch. in previous row, miss the next 3 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into next hole, miss next 3 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into the last hole formed by 3 ch. Repeat second and third rows until the desired length has been obtained. THE END Press o/ Isaac Pitman 6- Sons, Bath, England Q— (8I5B) Practical Plain Needlework By ANNIE B. CHAMBERLAIN, B.A., (Lond.) DiplomSe of the London Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework ; Needlework Instructress in the City of Nottingham Pupil Teachers' Centre. Foolscap 4to, cloth, 212 pp., fully illustrated with diagrams in two colours, 3s. fid. not. This Manual is intended for the use of teachers of Needlework in Elementary, Secondary, and Evening Continuation Schools, and of students preparing for the Needlework Examinations of the Board of Education. It is based on all the latest circulars issued by the Board. Directions for the cutting out, making, and mending- of actual garments are a prominent feature of the book ; there is a wide range of simple and up-to-date patterns cut out by proportion, with full instructions for adapting them to give figure measurements as required in practical work and in the- recent examinations of the Board of Education. Notes of Lessons on Pattern Drafting By JOSEPHINE RILEY Needlework Lecturer to the Teachers' Classes under the London County Council. Foolscap 4to, cloth, with 35 full-page diagrams, 128 pp. Price 2s. 6d. net. In this volume the author aims at presenting a recognised system correlated with Art ; and graduated for standards on educational lines. It includes Class lessons in Pattern Drafting, in Cutting Out in the Material, in the Making-up of the Gar- ments according to the ability of each class, e.g., Cutting Out and Making a Doll's. Cloak ; a Simple Dress ; a Child's Pinafore, Petticoat Bodice, Chemise, Princess. Petticoat ; Drill Knickers ; the " Magyar Overall " ; Girl's Nightdress ; Cooking; Apron ; Overall ; Gored Skirt ; Swimming Costume, etc. Needlework Manuals for Upper Standards and Evening Schools By FLORENCE SHAW Head Mistress Newgate Council School, Pontefract. In Five Books, each 24 pp., paper, with illustrations in two colours. Price 3d. net.. Including drafting of patterns, cutting-out, fitting, and making up of various garments. No. 1. Blouse-making. No. 2. Skirt-making. No. 3. Cooking- Apron, Overall, etc. Nos. 4 and 5. Under-garments. The directions con- tained in these books, which are written according to the requirements of the Board of Education, are simple and concise, and may safely be given to young students of 14 or 15. London : Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., 1 Amen Corner, E.C The Story of Girlie Bunting on the Island of "Never-Mind-Where" By ETHEL R. HAMBRIDGE Trained Certificated Teacher; Lecturer to Teachers; Diplomee {Gold Seal) of the London Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework, and of the National Training School of Cookery and other Branches of Domestic Economy in Millinery and Elementary and Advanced Dressmaking. Author of " Blackboard Diagram Drawing for Teachers of Needlecraft." Inscribed by kind permission to Mr. Rudyard Kipling. In crown 8vo, cloth, with many quaint illustrations, 120 pp. Is. 3d. The Author has struck a most original note in the production of Girlie Bunting, for it introduces the child-student of Needlework to her subject on the lines of a delightful story. Step by step, as the tale unfolds, the child is taken through the various stages of the work, and even the smallest point has not been omitted. The young student will also grasp in a most attractive manner the nature and use of all her workbox implements. A knowledge gained in this interesting way is likely to remain permanently in the mind. The little heroine, Girlie Bunting, is certain to prove very fascinating, and the reader, while enjoying her adventures, will, in addition, absorb almost unconsciously a very thorough preliminary instruc- tion in Needlework and Dressmaking. The book will be greatly valued in both Elementary and Secondary Schools. Knitting for Infants and Juniors By ETHEL M. DUDLEY, L.L.A. Sheil Road Council School, Liverpool. "With a Foreword by Miss S. J. HALE, Principal of the Edge Hill Training College, Liverpool. In foolscap 4to, cloth, 64 pp., with over 40 illustrations. 2s. net. Knitting lessons in the Infants' School frequently have a tendency to monotony and tediousness, because it is generally supposed that so little of any practical use can be accomplished by the tiny fingers. This book shows what may be done, as soon as the simple plain knitting stitch is conquered, in the way of making tiny garments for a doll, or small articles for a doll's house or for " Mother." Part I is entirely devoted to the work of Infants and Standard I, all patterns being based upon the ordinary plain knitting, or garter, stitch. Part II is more advanced,' requiring the added knowledge of how to work a purl stitch, and is suitable for all classes of the Junior School. The illustrations consist of photographs and drawings, the photographs in Part I being of actual articles made by children in the " Sixes " Class ; that is, by children from 5 to 6J years of age. London : Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., 1 Amen Corner, E.C.