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Cornell University Library 
 SB 411.M78 
 
 The history and culture of grafted roses 
 
 3 1924 002 879 967 
 
 &>tatt College of Agriculture 
 
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 ,./// THE HISTORY AND CULTURE 
 
 OP 
 
 Grafted Roses for Forcing 
 
 BY 
 ALEXANDER MONTGOMERY. JR. 
 
 ■Reprinted rrom 
 
 P^i 
 
 
 PRICE. 25 CENTS 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE 
 
 FLORISTS' PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 
 
 1905 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tiiis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002879967 
 
THE HISTORY AND CULTURE 
 
 OF 
 
 Grafted Roses for Forcing 
 
 BY 
 ALEXANDER MONTGOMERY. JR. 
 
 m 
 
 Reprinted from 
 
 ^^ 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE 
 
 FLORISTS' PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 
 
 1905 
 
v^ /^^ Y// 
 M '/Y 
 
 Copyright 1904 
 
 FLOEISTS' PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 Chicago, III. 
 
Alexander Montgomery, Jr. 
 
THE HISTORY AND CULTURE OF 
 
 GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 The Author's Purpose, 
 
 The subject of grafted roses as ap- 
 plied to the American system of forcing, 
 while now quite well understood in all 
 its various aspects by most of the large 
 and many smaller rose growers of the 
 country, still remains with some an open 
 question. It is not my intention to use 
 this opportunity accorded me to put . 
 forth an argument in favor of having 
 all rose growers use grafted stock, but 
 to state, so far as is known, some of 
 the facts in connection with the first at- 
 tempts to improve the conditions under 
 which forcing roses are grown, and to 
 give a comprehensive description of ev- 
 erything connected with the successful 
 handling of grafted roses. 
 
 If my readers will bear with me to 
 the end of my story I think they will 
 agree with me that this question of 
 grafted versus own-root roses is one 
 which no one man can decide for all, 
 but which each individual must work out 
 for himself, according to the character 
 of his soil, the varieties he is growing, 
 and the " system of production which is 
 best adapted to his requirements. While 
 the subject has been pretty thoroughly 
 covered from time to time by various 
 competent writers, it is thought that 
 it may prove of interest, at least to the 
 novice in the art of grafting, to cover 
 the whole story from the time some of 
 the first stocks were introduced down 
 to the present day. 
 
 The only way a grower can decide 
 whether grafted roses can be grown by 
 him is by having a thorough under- 
 standing of the subject. Therefore the 
 
 treatment of the stocks, the operation of 
 grafting, the handling of the grafting 
 case, and the subsequent treatment of 
 the plants, will all be given with con- 
 siderable detail. This, perhaps, while 
 seeming entirely unnecessary to those 
 who are already experts, will it is hoped 
 prove of interest to some who may not 
 yel have had any experience in this 
 line. I trust that I shall make myself 
 so clear that the veriest novice in the 
 art will obtain a clear idea of the prac- 
 tice, and perhaps even some who are 
 not strangers to the operatibn, but who 
 have not been as successful as they 
 could wish, will be helped in their work. 
 It is not the intention to tell merely 
 the proper but also the improper meth- 
 ods, and this latter knowledge is, after 
 all, that which often does us the most 
 good. 
 
 Early Trials. 
 
 In 1883 Mr. Montgomery sent to 
 a large firm of nurserymen in Eng- ■ 
 land an order for 1,000 of the 
 new rose, Catherine Mermet, all to be 
 budded on the seedling brier. This de- 
 mand, however, proved to be a stagger- 
 er for even a big firm, and after having 
 scoured the country they were able to 
 deliver only 500 plants. While no 
 definite facts are available in regard 
 to the experiments with budded roses, 
 it is believed that this was the fir^st 
 large importation of tea roses for forc- 
 ing, not on their own roots. 
 
 As the importer of these plants had 
 had an extensive experience in Britain 
 with roses budded on the brier, he hoped 
 that by adapting this stock to the 
 
ORAFTED ROSES FOR FORCINH. 
 
 American system of forcing he could 
 perhaps obtain the same satisfactory 
 results that had followed its use on the 
 other side, but in this he was destined 
 to be disappointed. 
 
 The Brier Stock. 
 
 These plants did very well up to the 
 fitst of November, better in fact than 
 own root up to that time, but from 
 November to April they were as sound 
 asleep as it is possible for a rose to be. 
 No amount of coaxing known in the art 
 of forcing could get those stocks to give 
 the slightest sign that they ever had 
 any intention of growing during the 
 short days of the winter months. From 
 April on into the summer, however, 
 they produced some good blooms, but 
 by that time the growth on the whole 
 was much inferior to the own-root 
 plants which had been flowering all 
 winter. Numerous experiments have 
 been made since on different varieties 
 but with practically the same results. 
 
 From a forcing standpoint, then, this 
 stock had proved a failure, but never- 
 theless it must be admitted that for size, 
 form and absolute perfection of finish 
 of the individual bloom, the brier under 
 certain conditions is the stock to vise. 
 As showing the high esteem in which it 
 is held in Britain I quote the following 
 from "A Book About Boses," by Dean 
 Hole: 
 
 I know that the Manetti will grow luxuriantly 
 where the brier will not grow at all; that In a 
 toward season it will produce some varieties 
 of the rose In their most perfect forin. those 
 "especially which have the smoother wood, • * • 
 ■but I am nevertheless convinced that by far the 
 greater number of the ' most perfect rosea may 
 be, are, and will be grown and shown from our 
 Indigenous British brier, taken from hedgerows, 
 struck from cuttings, or raised from seed. 
 
 From this, then, coupled with our- own 
 experience it is easily seen that because 
 a stock may be good for one purpose it 
 is not necessarily good for all. 
 
 Success \C^ith Manetti. 
 
 After this experience with budded 
 briers, Catherine Marmet grafted on the 
 Manetti was obtained from a prominent 
 Scotch firm. Grafted plants were called 
 for on account of the difficulty that had 
 been experienced in getting budded 
 
 stock. The newly budded teas were of- 
 ten winter-killed in the ground and con- 
 sequently, in order to produce plants in 
 quantity, the nurseryman had to resort 
 to winter grafting. 
 
 Eesults from this experiment were so 
 satisfactory that during the next few 
 years all varieties were imported in in- 
 creasing numbers until, in 1886, the ex- 
 pense of these large grafted plants be- 
 gan to be quite an item, and so it was 
 decided to import stocks and to try all 
 the methods of grafting which it was 
 thought might be adapted to the new 
 system. 
 
 ' The American Process of Grafting. 
 
 The old idea used to be to coat the 
 union of the graft and scion with a 
 smearing of grafting wax and to run 
 the plants at a somewhat lower temper- 
 ature than is now considered proper. 
 This, however, was a very tedious pro- 
 cess and in the mind of the American 
 grower it was altogether too slow, con- 
 sidering the fact that he had to produce 
 during the three winter months all of 
 the plants which he intended to set out 
 for the coming season. Then, by ex- 
 perimenting, it was found that by rais- 
 ing the temperature and increasing the 
 moisture the waxing process could be 
 omitted entirely and a more satisfac- 
 tory union could be produced in less 
 time and with less labor. 
 
 After these encouraging results with 
 Catherine Mermet and other varieties 
 all the leading roses of that period were 
 tried on the Manetti. Niphetos, Bon 
 Silene, William Francis Bennett, Lady 
 Mary Fitzwilliam and many others of 
 lesser note, showed a marked improve- 
 ment over own-root plants. 
 
 The Fatnous Cornelia Cook. 
 
 One of the most interesting sights 
 for visitors to our place during the 
 latter part of the '80s were the great 
 banks of that grand old favorite, Cor- 
 nelia Cook. The term "banks" is 
 used advisedly, for banks they really 
 were, the style of growing being en- 
 tirely different from anything now in 
 vogue. The plants, which were all in 
 
A Bundle of Manetti Stocks as Received from Europe. 
 
GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORCISG. 
 
 solid beds, were at that time forced as 
 long as seven or eight years. Where 
 the beds were wide enough, about seven 
 feet, the plants were placed in rows 
 three feet apart across the bed. An 
 iron trellis in the shape of an inverted 
 "V" was built in between each two 
 rows and the plants tied down to this, 
 leaving one row facing east and the 
 other west. As the plants were grown 
 so long in the same bed they made fine 
 canes and these, when thoroughly 
 ripened off during the summer, produced 
 magnificent blooms the following sea- 
 son. I remember one house in particu- 
 lar 300 feet long, with a single row of 
 plants lengthwise of the back bed and 
 tied back to a trellis, leaving the whole 
 bank facing the south. This indeed, 
 when in the midst of a full crop, was 
 a truly wonderful sight. 
 
 Now, _ one of the causes which un- 
 doubtedly contributed to these results 
 and which, by the way, was not made 
 known for some time, was the fact that 
 all these fine plants were grafted on 
 the Manetti stock. Finally, however, 
 when Charles Anderson, of the John 
 Henderson Company, a great admirer of 
 this method of forcing, was let into the 
 secret, he immediately set about graft- 
 ing his own Cooks and was so elated 
 with his success that he was unable to 
 hold on to his secret. 
 
 Stock for Marechal Niel. 
 
 It was in a somewhat similar way to 
 this that that finest of all yellow roses, 
 Marechal Niel, was treated. This vari- 
 ety had failed to thrive on the Manetti 
 and, while it gave very satisfactory 
 results on the Banksia, still it seemed 
 in time to outgrow this, being in fact 
 a more rapid grower than the stock it- 
 self. Mr. Montgomery having read of 
 Dean Hole's very high opinion of Glorie 
 de Diion as a stock for Marechal Niel, 
 decided to give it a trial under glass at 
 Waban Conservatories. A house 35x100 
 feet, twenty feet to the ridge, containing 
 sixty plants on this stock, was laid out 
 with one large bed arid the plants 
 trained on upright trellises across the 
 house. These plants in time made 
 canes enough to completely fill the 
 
 house, and bore in one crop from 25,000' 
 to 30,000 blooms, the product being 
 shipped as far as Washington on the~ 
 south, Montreal on the north and Chi- 
 cago on the west. No better stock than 
 Glorie de Dijon has ever been found 
 for Marechal Niel, either for out-of- 
 doors or for indoor forcing. 
 
 The Varioas Stocks. 
 
 In comparing the desirability of the 
 different stocks which could be made 
 available, we have,used the common dog 
 rose or brier (Kosa canina), Eosa multi- 
 ilora Japonica and De la GriflEerae, Bosa 
 Banksia and Manetti. In regard to re- 
 sults, there is such a vast superiority in 
 the use of the Manetti that comparisons 
 are of value only as a matter of inter- 
 esting history. 
 
 The brier, the most popular stock used 
 in the British Isles for the production 
 of exhibition blooms, has already been 
 mentioned. 
 
 Faalts of Multiflora. 
 
 Multiflora has never proved satisfac- 
 tory, never in fact being equal on the 
 whole to own-root plants. While it is 
 undoubtedly a vigorous grower, it does 
 not seem to have the property of being 
 able to transmit this quality to its 
 Scion and, moreover, we have never 
 been able to produce a bloom from a 
 multiflora graft that was equal in coloi; 
 to one from an own-root plant. But be- 
 yond all these objections, it seems to 
 be extremely susceptible to the club- 
 root caused by eel worms or nematodes, 
 and this fact alone ought to make its 
 use objectionable, for most rose growers 
 of even limited experience know that 
 it is only too easy to get club-root on 
 own-root plants, without going to the 
 trouble of grafting to get it. 
 
 Experience With De la Grifferae. 
 
 De la Grifferae has been tried with a 
 number of varieties. It is a vigorous 
 stock and makes a perfect union, the 
 findSt, in fact, of any stock which we 
 have ever tried, but still it produces a 
 very inferior plant. Thinking perhaps 
 that it might prove the thing for the 
 yellow class — as, by the way, the Man- 
 
TypicaJ Examples of the English Manetti Stock. 
 
GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 etti has been a failure with roses of the 
 Perle des Jardins type — we gave it a 
 trial, using the variety Sunrise, planted 
 in a solid bed. For the first four 
 months they absolutely refused to move, 
 merely keeping alive; then suddenly 
 they began to pick up and show signs 
 of increased activity. Suspecting what 
 might be the cause of this new lease of 
 ~ life which the plants had taken, several 
 of them were dug up and, sure enough, 
 our judgment was correct: they had be- 
 gun to send out own-roots from the 
 callus at the union of stock and scion, 
 wliile the stocks themselves had made 
 practically no roots since the day they 
 were put in. 
 
 Banksia for the Yellow Class. 
 
 The Banksia rose ought theoretically 
 to be the ideal stock, as it is practically 
 evergreen. This surely ought to suit 
 our friends Who rave about the Man- 
 etti not being the proper stock to use 
 because it is not evergreen. However, 
 it is not evergreen stocks we are look- 
 ing for, but evergreen roses, on "any 
 old" stock, so long as we get the 
 blooms. 
 
 But the Banksia has proved valuable 
 in ouu experience only in the case of 
 the yellow class. As before mentioned, 
 the Marechal Niel did fairly well on 
 it. Again, as far back as 1889, . the 
 Waban Conservatories had a very fine 
 house of Perle des Jardins on this 
 stock and about that time Mr. Peter 
 Boll, of Maiden, had remarkable suc- 
 cess with this rose on the Banksia. As 
 our market does not take kindly to the 
 yellow sorts, we have not done any- 
 thing further in the way of experiment- 
 ing with this stock, but if anyone who 
 is growing some of the Perle class is 
 not satisfied with it on its own roots, 
 I would advise him strongly to try the 
 Banksia rose as a stock for grafting. 
 
 Manetti the Successful Stock. 
 
 Finally we come to the Manetti and 
 we can truly say that up to date this 
 has proved itself to be the thing for 
 nearly all roses grown under glass. 
 That it has not proved itself better 
 than the own roots with 'every variety 
 
 we must all admit, and also even that 
 in some exceptional localities it has 
 proven a failure, but I think it will be 
 found that where this is so the reason 
 lies in the soil. It is generally con- 
 ceded that the Manetti rose thrives in 
 light to medium coarse gravelly loam, 
 and is not seen at its very best in an 
 exceptionally heavy, fine-grained, sticky 
 or tenacious soil. The Manetti is a 
 comparatively shallow fibrous-rooting 
 rose. It has a voracious appetite and 
 will in most cases stand considerably 
 more feeding than roses on their own 
 roots. 
 
 But, more than all this, the Manetti 
 seems to be absolutely free from the 
 attack of eel worms. This point alone 
 ought to make it very valuable to those 
 who are troubled with this pest, because 
 roses grafted on the Manetti are prac- 
 tically insured against an attack of 
 club-root. We do not know why this 
 is so, and of course could not state 
 positively that under certain conditions 
 it would remain free from the dreaded 
 nematodes, but we do know that up to 
 the present time it has done so. 
 
 An objection which has been made 
 against the use of roses grafted on the 
 Manetti is the fact that any check 
 during the late fall is liable to put the 
 plants to sleep for the winter, but we 
 all know that own-root roses are sub- 
 ject to the same defect if given half a 
 chance. So, as it is the growers' busi- 
 ness to see that they do not get a 
 check, it does seem as though such a 
 lame excuse as this ought not to fright- 
 en the wide-awake rosarian. 
 
 A point in favor of using the Man- 
 etti is found in the case of roses which 
 are difficult to propagate on their own 
 roots. Very often growers who have 
 failed almost completely to propagate 
 a rose have succeeded readily in graft- 
 ing it on the Manetti. As a specific 
 example, I recall seeing growers who 
 could find no advantage in grafting 
 American Beauty other than the fact 
 that, having failed to get up a stock 
 of plants on their own roots, they had 
 succeeded in securing a fine lot on the 
 Manetti. 
 
GKAFTED ROSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 15 
 
 Present Day Varieties. 
 
 "We are growing Mrs. J. P. Morgan 
 and Mrs. Oliver Ames on the Manetti, 
 and have had some plants of Morgan 
 in a solid bed as long as nine years 
 with no apparent deterioration in the 
 quality of _ the flowers, i although after 
 the fourth "or fifth year there was a de- 
 crease in the quantity. 
 
 There has been some complaint of 
 these varieties not doing well on this 
 stock, a large percentage dying off, 
 sometimes even when the plants are 
 in their second year. "While we have 
 had some experience with this trouble, 
 it has never bothered us to an alarming 
 extent nnd we consider that the graft- 
 ed plants are enough better to more 
 than compensate for any slight loss. 
 The cause of the defect seems to be 
 that Morgan unites rather poorly with 
 the stock and any poorly grafted plant, 
 whether of Morgan or any other vari- 
 ety, is liable to canker at the union. 
 The remedy would seem to be to use 
 special care in grafting and to have the 
 stock and scion very nearly the same 
 size, so that the union will be prac- 
 tically perfect. We have tried Morgan 
 on both De la GrifEerae and the Bank- 
 sia, but with unsatisfactory results. 
 
 Golden Gate, Ivory, Kaiserin Augus- 
 ta Victoria and Souvenir du President 
 Carnot are all grafted, but the differ- 
 ence between them and owuiroot plants 
 is not so marked as with some other 
 varieties. Still the many advantages 
 possessed by grafts, rapidity of growth, 
 freedom from elub-root, and general 
 adaptability to our soil, are worth more 
 than the extra cost of grafting. 
 
 Liberty is so much better with us 
 grafted that there is really no com- 
 parison. Yet, on the other hand, I 
 have seen localities where the exact 
 reverse was true; but this merely bears 
 out the statement previously made that 
 in deciding the question of grafted ver- 
 sus own-root plants each grower must 
 be a law unto himself. 
 
 American Beauty is grown on its 
 own roots. "We have experimented with 
 grafted plants and at -the present time 
 have a bed of Beauties on the Manetti, 
 
 but as we have not yet seen any decid- 
 ed advantage in favor of either, and 
 as this variety is such a vigorous grow- 
 er on its own roots, we have not seen 
 fit to declare our preference for grafts. 
 There is one advantage, however, that 
 the grafts have which may prove of 
 considerable value. In starting up 
 own-root plants after they have been 
 dried off they are frequently subject to 
 an attack of yellows, American Beauty 
 being especially susceptible. Grafted 
 Brides and Maids are very much less 
 likely to be troubled with the yellows 
 when grafted, and it will in all prob- 
 ability be found that, by putting Beau- 
 ties on the Manetti, they can be grown 
 successfully two or three years in the 
 same soil with very little risk. 
 
 Bride and Bridesmaid are all grafted, 
 and indeed since 1897 there has not 
 been an own-root plant of these on our 
 place. 
 
 Quality and Quantity. 
 
 It is unnecessary to go over again 
 the advantages secured by grafting, 
 but it may be well to make a few re- 
 marks on the quality and quantity of 
 product. In regard to quality it can be 
 said that with most varieties ihere will 
 be a general improvement in all grades 
 of the cut, and particularly in the me- 
 ,dium and smaller grades. This is espe- 
 ■ cially noticeable in the increased stiff- 
 ness of the stems, while with some 
 Tiinds there will be darker foliage and 
 better-colored blooms. "With Brides 
 and Maids the highest quality is 
 reached during .the second year and 
 rarely continues after the fourth. 
 
 As to quantity, figures are often mis- 
 Iteading because numbers depend to 
 such an extent on the method of dis- 
 budding; but, taking for example the 
 system followed by growers who cater 
 to the very critical markets of our 
 larger cities, a house of own-root Brides 
 or Maids that would average fifty flow- 
 ers to the plant would be exceptional, 
 but a house of grafted plants with an 
 average of fifty would be only a good 
 house and an exceptional one would go 
 as high as seventy-five. These propor- 
 tional figures will hold good up to the 
 
GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 end of the third year, although the 
 actual average per plant will generally 
 fall off somewhat after the second year. 
 It seems to be the general opinion, 
 among those who have never grown 
 grafted stock, that the superiority over 
 own-root is chiefly during the early 
 autumn months. In order to dispel any 
 such notion, I shall give the figures of 
 the cut by months from a house of own- 
 root roses, and also from the same 
 house when planted with grafts. This 
 is not a special case but only one of 
 many which could be quoted to support 
 our contention in favor of the Manetti. 
 While these figures do not, of course, 
 take into consideration the quality of 
 the flowers, still, assuming that the 
 grades are at least equal, and I believe 
 it is generally admitted that they are, 
 they present evidence which ought to 
 satisfy the most skeptical. 
 
 Montb — Own-root. Grafted. 
 
 August 6,899 8,653 
 
 September .- 11,317 20.950 
 
 October 11,614 0.325 
 
 November 10,373 16.558 
 
 December 5.829 8,50a 
 
 January 7,277 10,653 
 
 February 4,968 6,775 
 
 March 7,634 9.997 
 
 AprU 10,009 13,602 
 
 May : 13,834 20.813 
 
 June 12,991 16,624 
 
 Total 102,735 142,453 
 
 This is an interesting- record for 
 several reasons. It shows the same 
 bench space to have produced practic- 
 ally forty per cent more flowers on graft- 
 ed than on own-root plants, an increase 
 calculated to command the considera- 
 tion of even the most successful grow- 
 ers of own-root stock; and it shows the 
 increase to be well distributed through 
 the season, the month of December, for 
 instance, showing an increased cut of 
 nearly fifty per cent as compared with 
 the house ' of own-root plants. 
 
 Coltaral Methods. 
 
 Presuming that I may have Inspired 
 in some at least a desire to make a 
 trial of grafted roses, I will take up 
 the details of making the grafts 
 and the subsequent handling of the 
 plants. The frocess of making the 
 grafts will be given in considerable 
 
 detail, as it is the basis for success, 
 the after care of the grafted and own- 
 root plants differing in but few par- 
 ticulars. To begin at the beginning: 
 
 Procuring the Stocks. 
 
 As the best stocks at present come 
 from Britain, I should advise giving an 
 order to some reliable nurseryman. 
 This should be done during the summer 
 preceding the fall when the stocks 
 are to be delivered. 'I' lie next thing to 
 do is to keep posted on the exact date 
 of the shipment and arrival of the 
 same, and if one cannot be around per- 
 sonally to see that they are rushed 
 through the custom house, this import- 
 ant work should be intrusted to a brok- 
 er in whom one may have confidence, 
 with instructions to see that the ship- 
 ment is delivered as quickly as possible 
 after arrival. I have no doubt but 
 that many thousands of stocks have 
 been ruined beyond recovery by being 
 left lying carelessly around warehouses 
 in boxes with covers off, exposed to 
 drying winds, thus allowing them to 
 shrivel up long before they reach the 
 grower. In the cases of small growers 
 living in the same section, it would" 
 seem to be advisable to^club together 
 and have their separ^pifeders sent as 
 one large shipmeni^^his would un- 
 doubtedly cheapen tne cost of shipment 
 as well as facilitate the delivery of 
 the goods. 
 
 It must not be understood, however, 
 that early lifted stocks, as a rule, are rec- 
 ommended, for nothing will give the 
 grower more trouble than a lot of green 
 Manetti that have been shipped before 
 they were thoroughly ripened. They will 
 almost certainly shrivel up and no 
 amount of care that is bestowed on them 
 will be able to prevent this. Generally 
 speaking, it will be after the middle of 
 December before first-class Manetti can 
 reach this country from Britain. 
 
 Heel in at Once. 
 On the arrival of the stocks, if they 
 have been properly packed, the bun- 
 dles will be slightly moist and the 
 stocks should appear fresh and plump. 
 Now right here is the very place where 
 
a 
 < 
 
 J3 
 ■XI 
 I 
 
 a 
 
 M 
 
 
 o 
 
18 
 
 J GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORUIKG. 
 
 many beginners have made great fail- 
 ures, and straightway blamed their 
 dealers for sending poor stuff. There 
 may be, and undoubtedly are, many ex- 
 cellent ways of handling Manetti at 
 this particular stage, but the one I 
 mention has given very satisfactory 
 results and beginners would do well to 
 follow it. All packing or covering 
 should be removed from the bundles 
 and the stocks immediately plunged in 
 trenches in soil to two-thirds of their 
 depth and given a thorough watering, 
 taking care to wash the soil well in 
 about the roots. It is not necessary to 
 plunge the stocks separately; they will 
 do just as well in bundles, if all cover- 
 ing is' taken off. 
 
 PotHng Up. 
 
 In from four or five days to a week 
 they will be ready for potting, but 
 if they are kept cool, and about 40 
 degrees is right, there need be no hurry 
 about the matter as they ought to keep 
 in this condition for at least a month; 
 and if two or three batches are potted 
 each week they will come along in 
 about the right quantity for grafting. 
 
 If the stocks are allowed to remain 
 in the trenches until they have just 
 started to make white rootlets they will 
 generally take root more quickly when 
 potted. Two and one-half inch pots are 
 the proper size to use and, indeed, if 
 the stocks are properly rooted this size 
 will be found quite small enough, for 
 it must be remembered we expect to 
 have a good-sized plant on the stock 
 before it is ready for a shift to a 3%- 
 inch pot. ■ Pot good and firm, firmer 
 than you would rooted cuttings; water 
 thoroughly and place in a house with a 
 temperature of 45 degrees at night to 
 50 degrees in the day. Do not water 
 again until you are absolutely certain 
 they need it, or, I might better say, so 
 long as the soil remains moist they will 
 require no water at the roots. Dampen 
 the stems of the stocks three or four 
 times a day, according to the weather, 
 using a fine spray so' that the pots may 
 not become soaked. 
 
 The Grafting Case. 
 
 Now, while waiting for the Manetti 
 to root, it is time to get a grafting 
 case ready and, although this need not 
 be an elaborate affair, there are a few 
 things that are very necessary. The 
 case must be ti'ght; this is the first 
 and, I consider, the most important 
 item. It ought to have bottom heat so 
 that an even temperature of 75 degrees 
 can be maintained day and night. We 
 have had experience with all tempera- 
 tures from 90 degrees down to 75 de- 
 grees and have come to the conclusion 
 that 7o degrees is right. 
 
 The grafting case should have a fair 
 amount of light. A rose house is a 
 good place for a case during January 
 and February grafting, but it must be 
 shaded from the strong sun during the 
 middle of the day, with some thin 
 material that will not shut out all the 
 light; newspapers are very satisfactory 
 for a man who doesn't wish to waste 
 money. A north propagating housecan 
 be used with good results duSag 
 March, when rose houses are becoming 
 too hot for the best work. 
 
 In regard to size, this is not so im- 
 portant. We have done good work 
 with a case seven feet wide, two feet 
 high in the middle, even span, one sash 
 on each side, hinged at the top; also in 
 a small case thr^B*^et wide, one sash, 
 eighteen inches high at the back and 
 twelve inches at the front. These I 
 should say would" be the extremes in 
 size. Anything between would serve 
 the purpose very well, but my prefer- 
 ence would be for six inches to a foot 
 of head room over the stocks when 
 grafted. 
 
 Of course there are many notions and 
 frills which may be added to suit the 
 fancy of the builder, but I shall re- 
 peat the necessary points: First, have 
 the case tight, not pretty tight nor 
 anything but very tight. Second, have 
 bottom heat and, third, have direct 
 light. Put in two or three inches of 
 coal ashes or sand, pound firmly and 
 wet thoroughly, for this, it must be re- 
 membered, is where the necessary mois- 
 ture IS coming from for the first few 
 
GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 days. If all instructions have been 
 carried out everything should now be 
 ready for the operation of grafting. 
 
 Appliances for Grafting. 
 
 The appliances necessary for this are 
 few and very simple. In the first place 
 
 A Whip Graft. 
 (Stock and scion about equal size.) 
 
 there should be seats for the operators 
 to sit on, low enough so that the feet 
 may be placed firmly on the ground 
 and the knees brought up to within a 
 
 comfortable working distance from the 
 body. In front of the sitters ought to 
 be a bench a foot or so higher than the 
 seats, on which may be placed the 
 scions and stocks. Flats to carry the 
 stocks are very convenient if made to 
 hold just an even thirty-two 2% -inch 
 pots. Eaffia, which is the best material 
 for tying, should be slightly damp and 
 cut in bunches to the proper length. 
 A good sharp knife — shoe knives which 
 can be bought for 15 cents are first- 
 class for this work — and a layer of wet 
 sphagnum moss on the bench, to lay 
 the cut scions on, complete the equip- 
 ment. 
 
 Size and Stage. 
 
 The stocks should be chosen as near 
 the size of the scions as possible and, 
 although a stock larger than the scion 
 is not objectionable, the reverse would 
 be very much so. 
 
 The proper stage to use a stock is 
 when it has started to root in the pots 
 and positively never before. It is gen- 
 erally safe to graft when the buds just 
 begin to start, as this is usually a sign, 
 if the plants have not been kept too 
 warm, that root action has started. 
 Speaking broadly, then, the time limit 
 should be not before the buds start and 
 not after the shoots have grown to 
 half an inch. I do not by any means 
 want to insinuate that the operation 
 cannot be performed at other stages, 
 but it can be done best within the 
 limits laid down. 
 
 The scion ought to be good firm 
 wood with a plump bud, but at any 
 rate not started over a quarter of an 
 inch. Where the shoot is over this 
 length it will generally rot off in the 
 ease and so make it necessary for the 
 scion to form new eyes, whieli it will 
 sometimes do, but more often "it causes 
 the scion to rot also. The leaves 
 should be trimmed somewhat closer 
 than for cuttings, as this lessens the 
 opportunity for damping off. As for 
 the number of eyes to leave, one is all 
 that is necessary, but if the wood is 
 close-jointed two are not objectionable 
 and, indeed, some prefer this latter as 
 
Small and Large Scion.on Same Size Stock. 
 
 (Whip graft with large Bolon and modlfted whip graft with small sclou.) 
 
GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 it gives a chance to get one eye under 
 ground when planting. 
 
 v' The Kind of Union. 
 Now in regard to the kind of union 
 to make, there are only two that are 
 worthy of much consideration. One is 
 generally known as the whip, and the 
 other I shall designate for the pur- 
 pose of description as a modified form 
 of whip grafting. The first is formed 
 by making an oblique cut from ono-half 
 to three-quarters of an inch in length, 
 according to the size of the stock, and 
 cutting the scion to match the same, 
 placing the cut surfaces together and 
 securing firmly with raffia. The points 
 to "make sure of are that at least one 
 side and the bottom cut of the scion 
 are so placed that the cambium cells, 
 the layer of cells between the bark and 
 the wood, are in perfect contact with 
 the corresponding cells in the stock; 
 that in no case must the pith either in 
 the stock or in the scion be left ex- 
 posed, because while ex;posed wood cells 
 will, callus over, the pith will not. 
 
 Making the Graft. 
 
 It is a good plan to have two knives, 
 one for stocks and one for scions, and 
 to cut a batch of scions before starting 
 to graft; they will keep for some time 
 if kept sprinkled on sphagnum. If 
 the benches have been built as de- 
 scribed, a person sitting on the lower 
 one and facing the table will be in the 
 proper position for quick work. 
 
 Place the pot containing the stock 
 between the knees, steady with the loft 
 hand, make a clean, oblique upward 
 cut and hold facing up; without laying 
 down the knife pick out a suitable size 
 scion and hold it on Ihe stock with the 
 forefinger and thumb of the left hand, 
 always matching at least the bottom 
 and side toward the operator. Grasp 
 a piece of rafiia which has been cut 
 previously to the proper length; insert 
 one end between the forefinger and sec- 
 ond finger. Wind carefully and firmly 
 beginning always at the top and not 
 winding too closely together, as close 
 windini gives a chance for moisture to 
 
 collect beneath the raffia and causes rot- 
 ting of the scion. 
 
 The neatest way to make the tie is to 
 pass the free end through beneath the 
 last twist of the raffia and draw tight. 
 The plants should not be allowed to 
 stand around too long, as the green 
 scion will, shrivel up. 
 
 There are, of course, many ways that 
 grafting can be done, but if the be- 
 ginner will carry out carefully the de- 
 tails mentioned, with the assurance 
 that he is on the right track, he will 
 rapidly become expert and conclude 
 that, after all, there was considerably 
 more talk about it than there was work. 
 
 The Test of Watchfniness, 
 
 Now if anj'one thinks that after he 
 has performed all of the foregoing in- 
 structions his labors are over he surely 
 is making a great mistake, for although 
 everything up to this stage must be done 
 with care, the real test of his watchful- 
 ness comes after the grafts are placed 
 in the case. 
 
 For the first four or five days after 
 the plants are put in the case, if the 
 bottom, whether it be ashes or sand, 
 has been properly moistened it will not 
 be necessary to open the case. But this 
 rule will not always hold good, because 
 the novice will be perhaps very likely 
 to have either too much or too little 
 moisture. If too wet the leaves will 
 become saturated with moisture and 
 both leaves and stems will begin to 
 bjacken and rot. This latter condition 
 is generally a sure sign that the temper- 
 ature is too high or else the case is too 
 wet; this, however, would not hold good 
 for weak or soft scions, because they 
 would be likely to rot with even the 
 best treatment. 
 
 The only thing to do, then, if the ease 
 is too wet is to raise the sash very 
 slightly; the thickness of a lath is 
 plenty, eyen if the plants have been 
 in only two days. This will give a 
 chance for the air to circulate and will 
 likely carry out the surplus moisture. 
 Watch results carefully and if any 
 leaves show the least sign of drooping, 
 close the case at once. At any rate 
 
One- Year-Old Grafted Plant of Bridesmaid Rose, 
 
 (A typical example of the way In which a grafted plant sends out its roots. The upper are entirely 
 own roots, the middle are on the union, the lower are en Irely Manettl.) 
 
GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 23 
 
 five to ten, minutes twice a day ought 
 to be sufSeient to accomplish the pur- 
 pose. 
 
 On the other hand, if the case is too 
 dry the remedy is obvious; damp very 
 slightly with a fine mist. Mist is what 
 is meant as it describes exactly what 
 is wanted; and 'keep the case tight. 
 
 Ailing the Plants. 
 
 After five or six days, then, provided 
 everything has gone right, the caUus 
 should be far enough advanced to al- 
 low of admitting air. This should be 
 done, to start with, not over fifteen to 
 twenty minutes morning and afternoon, 
 and gradually increased each succeed- 
 ing day until the sash can be kept up 
 all day. It is advisable to close the 
 case for the first night or so after a full 
 day of airing; then for three or four 
 nights following leave on some air, 
 about half that of the daytime, until 
 finally, in from fifteen to twenty days, 
 the plants will be able to stand full 
 air day and night; and in from twenty 
 to thirty days they should be hard 
 enough to take out, but even then they 
 will require shading from the strong 
 sun for a few days. 
 
 It is taken for granted that even 
 the novice will know that he must 
 keep the. pots properly watered, neither 
 too wet nor too dry, rather dry than wet, 
 for obvious reasons; but it will be well 
 perhaps to tell him that, from the time 
 the plants begin to take air for the 
 full day, they ought to be damped over- 
 head twice a day with a very fine spray, 
 until they are removed from the case 
 and have become thoroughly hardened. 
 Of course, neither minutes nor days can 
 be an exact guide, but are mentioned 
 only in order to give an approximate 
 idea of the time usually required. The 
 best guides, and in fact the only ones 
 a person will probably depend on after 
 he has had some practice are hia eyes 
 
 To sum up in a nutshell, the most 
 common causes of failure in the graft- 
 ing ease are: First, shriveling due to 
 too dry an atmosphere, either through 
 improper airing or a poorly built struc- 
 ture, allowing air to get in through 
 
 the cracks; and, second, damping or 
 rotting off, due to not enough ventila- 
 tion, or else too moist an atmosphere. 
 
 Grafting Case for Few Plants. 
 
 While on the subject of cases I may 
 mention a method that has proven very 
 satisfactory for a limited number of 
 plants, such as seedlings or a new vari- 
 ety, when the wood is scarce and needs 
 special care. Take a box of convenient 
 size, a cracker box is good, putty up 
 all the cracks, put an inch of well mois- 
 tened sphagnunj moss in the bottom, 
 and place the case on the sand in a 
 propagating bed; set in the grafts, lay 
 on a light of glass, making tight with 
 putty, and let alone. After about ten 
 days handle the same as a regular case. 
 With careful grafting 100 vper cent can 
 be taken out with this method. 
 
 Grafting Dormant Wood. 
 
 There is also a scheme that can be 
 used for dorma,nt wood which does not 
 require a grafting case. It cannot be 
 recommended for general use, but only 
 in special cases, such, for instance, as 
 when a grower has parted with a five- 
 dollar bill for some "highly recom- 
 mended" French novelty and feels that 
 he possibly might get his money's worth 
 if only he could graft the few little dor- 
 mant eyes. 
 
 To proceed, then, select good plump 
 stocks direct from the bundles, picking 
 out those which have not started from 
 the eyes. Take scions that are well 
 ripened and dormant. The operation of 
 making the union is the same as for 
 regular grafting except that after 
 tying it should be well covered . with 
 grafting wax, which should be melted 
 in a water bath so that it may not be 
 hot -enough to injure the wood. After 
 waxing they should be packed i^ boxes 
 in upright layers, with sphagnum moss 
 between, and placed in a house with a 
 temperature of 45 degrees. 
 
 In from four to six weeks, or at the 
 time when the stocks begin to send out 
 white rootlets, they may be taken out 
 and potted, when they should be treat- 
 ed the same as though they were newly 
 potted stocks alone, except that as the 
 
21 
 
 GRAFTED KOSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 Rose House in Which Solid Beds and Tile Drainage are Employed. 
 
 roots begin to take hold of the soil the 
 temperature should he gradually in- 
 creased. After the bud in the scion 
 has started to grow the temperature 
 should reach normal. 
 
 This plan has worked well for graft- 
 ing dormant hybrid perpetuals and, 
 also, it can be used quite successfully 
 with dormant Kaiserin and Carnot. 
 
 Beds or Benches ? 
 
 Having now a good batch of choice 
 young stock, the question arises, are 
 beds or benches preferable? For plants 
 that are to be forced two or three years 
 in the same soil I should say most de- 
 cidedly use beds, for a variety of rea- 
 sons. The Manetti, being a gross feed- 
 er, requires plenty of room in which to 
 search for food. With our own rather 
 light soil we plant in from seven to 
 eight inches; but this matter' of the 
 
 proper depth of soil is, of course, an 
 entirely local one and depends upon the 
 texture of loam which is' available for 
 the work, a heavy, fine-grained clay 
 necessitating a lesser depth in order to 
 allow air and water to pass through it 
 readily. 
 
 A Good Bed. 
 
 A very serviceable and economical 
 bed is built as follows: Drive 3x3-ineh 
 chestnut posts four feet apart along the 
 line of the outer edges of the bed; 
 the width of the bed will, of course, 
 vary according to the notions of the 
 grower. Spike onto the posts, on each 
 side of the bed, two lines of plank 8x 
 1% inches, leaving the bottom plank 
 raised two inches from the ground. Fill 
 in about six inches of stones or broken 
 rocks, placing carefully so as to allow 
 for free circulation of air. Over this 
 
I 
 
 § 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 ^ 
 
 o 
 
26 
 
 GRAFTED ROSES FOR FORCING. 
 
 put three or four inches of coarse 
 gravel, dump in the soil and the bed is 
 ready for planting. In localities where 
 gravel or stone is not plentiful, drain 
 tile can probably be secured quite rea- 
 sonably and ought to answer the pur- 
 pose equally as well as stones and 
 gravel. 
 
 Of course, if a man thinks that his 
 grandchildren two generations hence 
 will be satisfied with any form of bed 
 which happens to be the fashion of the 
 present day, he may construct any of 
 the elaborate forms, using cement or 
 brick, or any of the patented what- 
 nots; but the one described will be 
 used generally by the grower whose 
 capital for the: increase of his glass 
 area must be taken from the profits of 
 his business. 
 
 Trend Toward Solid Beds. 
 
 The trend at the present time seems 
 - to be toward so-called solid beds, as 
 nearly all the large ranges, at least in 
 the east, which have been constructed 
 recently are equipped with solid beds; 
 One of the most striking instances of 
 this reversion from raised benches to 
 solid beds is found in the cases of those 
 Beauty growers who a few years ago 
 set out young plants on benches, and 
 who are now growing their Beauties in 
 beds as long as three, and in some cases 
 four, years without replanting. While, 
 as a rule, they do not claim any great 
 increase in the yearly average of qual- 
 ity, they do get a longer cutting season, 
 in addition to the saving in young 
 plants, soil and cost of planting. 
 
 One of the chief objections to grow- 
 ing plants more than one year on 
 benches is the difficulty of properly dry- 
 ing them off on account of the danger 
 of the soil becoming too dry and kill- 
 ing the roots completely. The solid 
 bed, it may be remarked in this con- 
 nection, maintains a more even condi- 
 tion of moisture and temperature, both 
 summer and winter, than a bench, and 
 consequently lessens the chances of in- 
 jury' to the plants from neglect or in- 
 competence on the part of the work- 
 man. 
 
 While plants on a bench can be car- 
 
 ried over successfully by the experi- 
 enced grower, the beginner will find 
 that his chances of failure are consider- , 
 ably lessened if he makes his first at- 
 tempt in solid beds. 
 
 Union Most Be Btiried. 
 
 The subsequent treatment of the 
 grafted plants does not differ radically 
 from that of own-root roses except in 
 a few particulars. The one thing which 
 is absolutely necessary, and which must 
 be done to secure the best results with 
 grafted roses, is to plant them so that 
 the whole of the union of graft and 
 scion will always be from one-half to 
 one inch below the surface of the soil. 
 This is imperative, not only that the 
 plants may make roots from the union, 
 ,but also fo r other reasons which do 
 not seem to be so eaailv eypla ineri; be- 
 cause, aside from this question of roots, 
 it seems to be a fact that the Manetti 
 union needs to be surrounded with that 
 condition of air and moisture which is 
 found best in soil. 
 
 Moreover, the cells that form the 
 callus at the union have a tendency to 
 dry up when exposed to the sun and 
 air, and consequently are not able to 
 perform properly their funotiona of 
 transmitting the sap from stock to 
 scion. For this reason, also, I believe 
 that young grafted plants which have 
 been allowed to become pot-bound and 
 thoroughly hardened, have received a 
 check from which they will never fully 
 recover. 
 
 I shall repeat, then, if conditions are 
 such that the grafted plants cannot be 
 given full justice by placing the union 
 below the soil, then by all means do 
 not attempt to grow them, but use own- 
 root plants in preference. 
 
 Carrying the Plants Over. 
 
 There is one other point, also, on 
 which it may be well to say a few 
 words, and that is the method used in 
 handling stock which it is intended 
 to grow more than one year. The gen- 
 eral practice is to force the plants up 
 to the end of June, then gradually dry 
 off the beds, at the same time giving 
 
J 
 
 
 o 
 
 § 
 
 
28 
 
 GRAFTED ROSES FOE FORCING. 
 
 all the air possible day and night, thus 
 allowing root^ .and wood to become well 
 ripened, although, in the case of teas 
 the plants, should not actually become 
 dormant; they will start stronger if 
 not alloiwed to become too hard, but 
 are merely rested — rested describes the 
 condition best of anything. 
 
 If ever the wood of teas begins to 
 get yellow and -the leaves fall off, it 
 is a sure sign of the soil being too dry 
 and no time should be lost in correct- 
 ing this, as this condition of too dry 
 soil is the principal cause of failure to 
 ripen our rose bushes successfully. ' The 
 exact point . at which to give water or 
 to withhold it altogether is very diffi- 
 cult to state in just so many words, 
 but, as I have said, if the wood in 
 ripening up has not lost its dark- 
 green color and the leaves have not 
 fallen off, then the plants may be con- 
 sidered generally, to be in good condi- 
 tion, and an occasional syringing or 
 light watering should be sufficient. 
 
 In from four to six weeks from the 
 time the plants began to rest they will 
 be ready to start, into growth, but be- 
 fore starting they most likely will need 
 some pruning. This I shall divide into 
 two classes, taking Brides and Maids 
 as an example of light pruning, and 
 Liberty as a specimen of the class re- 
 quiring close pruning. 
 
 Light Pruning. 
 
 For the first kinds it is recommended 
 that only the tops of the plants be cut 
 off, generally the last growth that has 
 been made being sufficient, if it has 
 been properly ripened. Only the very 
 lightest wood or useless brush should 
 be cut out completely, and, in fact, 
 unless the plants are good and strong 
 it would be safest for a beginner to cut 
 nothing but the tops, and then, after 
 the plants have made a good healthy 
 start, he may do a little thinning out. 
 
 I must put special stress on this mat- 
 tei- of cutting out, as it is the very 
 point on which there may be a great 
 variety of opinions as to what consti- 
 tutes useless wood. It is certainly true 
 that unless ajperson knows what he is 
 about he will do the least damage and 
 
 have the greatest chance of success by 
 letting the plants alone, with the excep- 
 tion of merely cutting off the tops. 
 
 While it is the common practice to 
 leave Brides and Maids standing up- 
 right after pruning, there are occasions 
 when it is almost imperative to bend 
 them down. This is especially so ia 
 the ease of plants over two years old, 
 which often become so tall that, in 
 order to get them within a convenient 
 working distance, they would have to 
 be cut back too hard; consequently the 
 only alternative is to bend them down 
 and tie out in fan shape, taking care 
 not to cross the canes any more than 
 necessary. 
 
 Close Pruning. 
 
 The second class, of which Liberty 
 has been cited as an example, requires 
 close pruninlg. Kaiserin and Carnot 
 also are familiar examples. They 
 should be cut back somewhat similar to 
 hybrid perpetuals. The general rule is 
 to cut one-year-old plants to four or 
 five good eyes, and the second and fol- 
 lowing years Ijack on the first growth 
 made after starting up the plants dur- 
 ing that year. Of course, they will 
 grow all right if not cut back to the 
 limit, but the longest stems usually 
 come from the closest cut plants, allow- 
 ance being made for the different varie- 
 ties, as a strong growing sort will, not 
 require as close pruning as a weak kind. 
 
 Most of the present-day varieties, 
 then, can be placed under these two 
 classes, but I have no doubt that many 
 of the roses of the future will require 
 treatment which will be midway be- 
 tween these two extremes. 
 
 Starting Into Growth. 
 
 The method of starting the plants 
 into growth is about the same in all 
 cases. The beds should be thoroughly 
 cleaned off and given a good watering. 
 Some prefer to remove a little of the 
 old soil, but it is not at all necessary 
 atid I doubt very much if there is 
 enough gain to pay for the trouble, 
 except, perhaps, in special cases. 
 
 After the beds have had a g6dd 
 watering, whatever manures or fertiliz- 
 
6EAFTED ROSES FOE FORCING. 
 
 29 
 
 era one is accustomed to use may be 
 put on and thoroughly watered in. Now, 
 this is the important part; it may take 
 one watering and it may take three or 
 four, but at any rate do it thoroughly. 
 Then let the soil alone. This, also, is 
 important, as no more water is required 
 until the plants break into a good red, 
 healthy growth. 
 
 Examine the soil and when little 
 white rootlets are found, it is a sign 
 that the plants will take more water if 
 carefully applied, but do not give too 
 much, as an overdose at this stage will 
 cause the young shoots to turn yellow. 
 This is the danger point, but once over 
 this stage, the plants will be ready for 
 the regular treatment which is given to 
 any rose. 
 
 From Benches to Beds. 
 
 Some growers prefer to grow their 
 plants on benches for the first year 
 and replant into solid beds the second 
 year. This gives very satisfactory re- 
 sults and can be recommended to any 
 who wish to run plants for two or three 
 years but do not care to stfri in with 
 solid beds. 
 
 The treatment is about the same as 
 though- carried over without changing 
 the soil. The plants should be ripened 
 sufficiently so that they may be lifted 
 
 without danger of the wood shriveling. 
 When ready to transfer to the new soil 
 they should be watered enough so that 
 they may be lifted with a good ball 
 of soil on the roots. Now, while they 
 may be planted directly into the new 
 soil, the better way, and by long odds 
 the safest, is to put them outdoors in 
 the sun, throw in a little soil between 
 the plants and water well. In four or 
 five days the roots will begin to start, 
 when they should be brought in and 
 planted. Tramp the soil in firmly 
 about the roots, leaving a basin around 
 each plant, so that only the soil con- 
 taining roots will be wet, and water 
 thoroughly. 
 
 The only danger points now are dry 
 air and wet soil. The first causes the 
 wood to shrivel; to prevent this, keep 
 the walks damp and the bushes sprayed 
 fbr a few days, with a very fine spray. 
 The second causes the new growth to 
 start yellow, or even, in some cases, the 
 plants to die outright. The remedy 
 depends mostly on the skill and expe- 
 rience of the grower, but in general I 
 may say that the first watering often 
 proves sufficient to start the roots; at 
 any rate, the less water they receive 
 until the plants have begun to grow 
 well, the less will be the chances of 
 failure. 
 
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