LIBRARY 
 
 Department of Fioriculture 
 and Ornamental Horticulture 
 
 New York State College 
 0/ Agriculture 
 
 at CORNELL UNIVERSITY 
 ITHACA, N.Y. 
 
 Gift of 
 
 Date 
 
Cornell University Library 
 SB 405.S56 
 
 Continuous bloom in America; where, when, 
 
 3 1924 003 392 671 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003392671 
 
BY LOUISE SHELTON 
 
 BEAUTIFUL GARDENS IN AMERICA 
 CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 

 S o 
 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM 
 IN AMERICA 
 
 WHERE, WHEN, WHAT, TO PLANT 
 
 WITH 
 
 OTHER GARDENmO SUGGESTIONS 
 
 BY 
 LOUISE SHELTON 
 
 author of 
 "thb seasons in a flower oardbei'' 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
 
 1921 
 
COPTHIGET, 1915, BT 
 
 JHARLES SORIBNEK'S SONS 
 
 PubUahed August, 1915 
 
DEDICATED 
 
 TO 
 
 KINDKED SriHITS IN THE GARDEN — MY FRIENDS 
 
 KNOWN AND UNKNOWN 
 
"There's something wonderfully soothing in having your fingers in 
 Mother Earth. It seems to take the restlessness out of one. 
 
 "The out-of-doors rests you, just like when you were little and things 
 went wrong, and your mother took you in her arms. The fret and the 
 trouble go out, and the quietness and the strength come in. I don't know 
 how it happens, but it does happen, and the touch of the earth has something 
 to do with it. You feel as if the things that had concerned you were curiously 
 unimportant beside the sky and the birds and the growing things, and you 
 come in touch with the wonderful patience of the old earth." 
 
 — ^Frances Duncan. 
 
 "When quite well and happy. 
 Work in the garden because you are glad. 
 
 When weary and heart-sick. 
 Work in the garden because it will rest you. 
 
 When it rains. 
 Work in the garden because then is the time to plant and weed. 
 
 When the winds blow. 
 Work now to save the slender stalks from breaking. 
 
 When there is drought. 
 Work in the garden to save your plants. 
 
 When it b winter. 
 Work now to give sheltering care. 
 
 When it is spring. 
 Work in the garden because everybody does. 
 
 When it is summer. 
 Live in the garden to enjoy the fruits of your labor. 
 
 When it is autumn. 
 
 Work in the garden because now is the time to transplant, divide, and 
 multiply, and to lay down in the earth the glories for next summer." 
 
 "If there is any other time when you cannot find aa excuse for working 
 in the garden, remember that it was the first duty and place of man, and 
 that there is no philosophy of life, no beauty of art, which has not its seed 
 in the earth, or can flourish without knowledge of a garden. What, indeed, 
 was the punishment of Adam and Eve but to he driven out of their Eden .' " 
 
 — Anna Lea Merhitt, 
 '*My Gardea," from Century Magazine. 
 
 [Vii] 
 
PREFACE 
 
 In this my second book on garden lore, I hope as 
 far as possible to avoid repetition in cultural direc- 
 tions, although a few of these may have to be repeated 
 in order to present complete directions for a garden of 
 continuous bloom. 
 
 I have not hesitated to admit and correct several 
 mistakes in my last little book, "The Seasons in a 
 Flower Garden," and I also have taken advantage 
 of a woman's privilege to change my mind in regard 
 to the use of a few of the plants recommended. Refer- 
 ring to my first plant list, I no longer use, where con- 
 tinuous bloom is required, several varieties named in 
 "The Seasons." Either because they grow too ram- 
 pantly, spread too quickly, bloom too early, are too 
 short-lived, or else are too weak in coloring. 
 
 The corrections to which I refer are the following: 
 
 First. Reddish Helichrysum — a local name — was 
 used instead of Globe Amaranth, of the Helichrysum 
 family. 
 
 Second. Silene pendula should read Silene armeria 
 according to American catalogues. 
 
 Third. In the first edition of my book, 2 inches of 
 
 [ix] 
 
PREFACE 
 
 clay was advised by mistake for the bottom of a new 
 bed made in sandy ground, whereas 8 inches is none 
 too much, because, to a certain extent, clay next to 
 sand will absorb the sand, or vice versa. 
 
 Fourth. Calceolaria was suggested rather hastily 
 and without first trying it in home soil. The author 
 must mention the disappointing venture with this 
 beautiful golden flower, which lends such a brilliant 
 effect to the English June gardens. An attempt to 
 grow it at home from English seed produced plants 
 of many leaves, but with insignificant flowers. Pos- 
 sibly in different soil and moister climate, results might 
 be otherwise. 
 
 While my first book was devised entirely to meet 
 the amateur's long-felt want for the ABC of garden- 
 ing, with fortnightly advice for the untrained gardener, 
 this second book will, I hope, supply the more ex- 
 perienced gardener with a comprehensive scheme for 
 continuous bloom, as well as abbreviated plans in a 
 late chapter for those who would specialize in spring 
 and autumn displays. In addition there are some 
 other garden suggestions which may, I trust, be help- 
 ful to those who have not as yet gone deeply into this 
 interesting subject. 
 
 [x] 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 Ei^t years have passed since I sent out to kindred 
 garden spirits my book, "The Seasons in a Flower Gar- 
 den." Although my pen has since been idle, my spade 
 has labored on, planting and transplanting, seeking 
 ever a plan more satisfactory than the one given in 
 the sketch of a single planting plan, which appeared 
 in the second and later editions. Finally, after obtain- 
 ing in a large garden the results for which I had long 
 striven, i. e., complete satisfaction in a continuous 
 bloom throughout a season beginning May 20 and 
 ending with frost, I realized that I was ready to share 
 my working plans with my known and unknown gar- 
 den friends. What plants to use. Where to place them, 
 and When they bloom, is the scheme I now offer to 
 those who are striving for continuous "all-over" bloom 
 during twenty-six weeks at the longest. Doubtless 
 there are others having somewhat similar plans, who 
 yet must withhold this coveted information, because 
 lacking the opportunity to share it with us. 
 
 There is nothing more bewildering than the variety 
 of horticultural advice as to the treatment of certain 
 plants: and while all in their way may be right, it is 
 
 [xi] 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 the different conditions in the various sections of the 
 country which produce such a diversity of opinion. 
 In the garden world, part of its wisdom is to be very 
 liberal and broad-minded. Old-time conventions, so- 
 called infallible rules concerning flowers, are often open 
 to question and change. Some of these rules are not 
 necessarily cast-iron laws, and certain liberties may 
 be taken with a plant in one locality that might be 
 disastrous to it in another place. There are some things 
 that one must learn for himself by experience in his 
 own garden; for instance: the depth of winter cover- 
 ing required; the biennials and hardy annuals that 
 may or may not need to be wintered in frames; the 
 safe time in spring for setting out tender annuals, 
 etc., etc.; all depending on the climate. Again, what 
 plant causes more discussion than the Dahlia? Is it 
 possible, that notwithstanding all the conflicting ad- 
 vice for the benefit of the Dahlia, plentiful watering 
 may be the one important rule for its best develop- 
 ment? In many places the following plants, Gypso- 
 phila, Dahlia, Lavatera, and Salpiglossis, grow lux- 
 uriantly, but in my dry garden, where watering is 
 difficult, it is useless to expect any satisfaction from 
 them. Again, and for other local reasons, it is seldom 
 that August-sown Shirley Poppies survive the winter 
 in the northern exposure of my hillside, and they 
 must be sown instead about April 1, or even upon the 
 
 [xii] 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 March snows, for late June bloom. Then again, one 
 person may have a knack in handling some plant suc- 
 cessfully where other gardeners invariably fail. A 
 woman I know can transplant a lot of Shirley Poppies 
 with few losses, whereas other gardeners in attempting 
 it, with even the smallest seedlings, probably lose ten 
 out of twelve plants. 
 
 Many old-fashioned gardeners are loath to crowd 
 the plants after the manner prescribed in these charts. 
 This method undoubtedly requires a little more super- 
 vision to prevent the smothering of the smaller vari- 
 eties, but at the same time, the shaded soil holds 
 moisture longer and fewer weeds intrude. 
 
 There is but little left to be desired in the way of 
 fullest bloom and harmony, if the charted plans in 
 this book are strictly followed. With beds of different 
 sizes, but slight variations will be necessary, depend- 
 ing only on the number of square feet to be utilized. 
 Doubtless for large gardens in moister climate there 
 could be added a few more favorites, some of which 
 are included in the list of "What to Plant," though 
 omitted in the charts. 
 
 These eleven plans later presented are duplicates of 
 beds in several gardens where continuous bloom reigns 
 from the opening of German Iris until frost. An in- 
 telligent gardener, after a little careful study, and 
 trial, must surely grasp these plans, and, once accom- 
 
 [ xiii ] 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 plished, his garden enclosure will be more than ever 
 his out-of-door home, with each plant friend always 
 in its own familiar place and ever glad to be alive in 
 its appointed time. 
 
 If the gardener fails to produce the desired effect, 
 let him first carefully examine into his own methods 
 of procedure before criticising the plans in question. 
 
 It has been constantly the author's aim to supply 
 the gardener in the simplest and briefest way possible 
 with the necessary information for the beautifying of 
 his garden. The list under "What to Plant," sug- 
 gests the plants most useful for this plan of continuous 
 bloom, and contains mainly the names used in the 
 most familiar American catalogues. Important sug- 
 gestions as to the peculiar needs and habits of these 
 favored plants are also included, but it will be left to 
 the numerous horticultural encyclopaedias, complete 
 and abridged, to furnish their full botanical descrip- 
 tions and histories. 
 
 It will be observed that the flower names in this 
 volume are capitalized. As it is a book of instruction, 
 where flower names will be frequently sought, the 
 author adopts this method for the purpose of bringing 
 out the names conspicuously on the pages. 
 
 [xiv] 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CBAFT£B rAGS 
 
 I. The Secbe* of Continuous Bloom . . 1 
 
 II. Where to Sow 5 
 
 III. Where to Plant 12 
 
 IV. When to Sow 26 
 
 V. When to Plant 39 
 
 VI. When They Bloom 46 
 
 VII. What to Plant — Perennials .... 51 
 
 VIII. What to Plant — Annuals 73 
 
 IX. Miscellaneous Gardening Advice . . 92 
 
 X. Some Minor Suggestions 108 
 
 Planting Charts 117 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 I. Continuous bloom from mid-May until frost Frontispiece 
 
 FACING PAGK 
 
 n. Continuous bloom at "The Orchard" 6 
 
 in. Late June bloom 1 j^ 
 
 Long open bed 7 H feet wide, right side path / 
 
 IV. Wall bed 4 feet wide "I gQ 
 
 Wall bed 7 feet wide / 
 
 V. Continuous bloom in small beds 1 g^ 
 
 Lupins and Gas Plants J 
 
 VI. Continuous bloom of annuals bordering brick path \ a^ 
 The scallop edge J 
 
 Vn. All paths curving 42 
 
 VIII. Curving grass paths 48 
 
 IX. For a city yard 92 
 
 X. View of upper garden 94 
 
 XI. Upper garden looking down to lower garden 1 gg 
 
 Part of curved path. Lower garden / ' ' " 
 
 Xn. Lower garden. End of cm-ved path to lane 1 .98 
 
 The circular bower I ' ' ' 
 
 [ xvii ] 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 TLATB FACING PAGH 
 
 Xni. A separate spring garden 1 200 
 
 The outer court — "Green Court" J 
 
 XrV. A garden with trees 102 
 
 XV. Trees as a background 1 106 
 
 Trees in Preston Garden J 
 
 XVI. Peonies in mass \ HO 
 
 Shirley Poppies J 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
Chapter I 
 
 THE SECRET OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 
 
 To understand the scheme of well-balanced, con- 
 tinuous bloom, we must know — 
 
 First: The birth dates and longevity of the flowers 
 in our garden, in order to classify them under the 
 several different periods of bloom. 
 
 In the country surrounding New York City, at 
 least, the flowering season continues for twenty to 
 twenty-six weeks, or from May 1 to frost, due any 
 time between October 1 and November 1. This long 
 season may be divided into eight periods of bloom, 
 representing the coming and going of the different 
 classes of plants. The blossoming period of most per- 
 ennials and annuals lasts about three weeks. A few 
 annuals remain for four months and these are inval- 
 uable in a garden. 
 
 Second: The plan for planting in lines, for the sake 
 of order. 
 
 Third: The alternation of two or more flowering 
 periods in these lines, for the purpose of regular and 
 balanced bloom. 
 
 [1] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 Fourth: The choicest plants to use and their colors 
 and proportions. 
 
 No matter how much information one may have 
 acquired concerning the best plants and their habits, 
 it is valueless in the quest for well-balanced, continu- 
 ous bloom if one lacks the knowledge of the periods 
 of bloom and for the alternation of those periods. 
 Continuous bloom of course is as prolonged as the 
 climate permits and no longer. 
 
 WHAT, WHERE, AND WHEN 
 
 The secret of well-balanced, continuous bloom de- 
 pends, therefore, on a definite idea of what flowers 
 to plant, where to plant them, and when they bloom, 
 with the no less important knowledge of the scheme 
 for alternating the several blooming periods, in the straight 
 or circular lines, in broken though regular order, through- 
 out each and all the beds. It is this plan that obtains 
 the effect of a well-balanced bloom over the whole 
 garden, from the beginning to the end of the season. 
 The idea is clearly illustrated in the patterns on many 
 an Oriental rug, where figures in. different colors ap- 
 pear in "broken though regular order," in symmet- 
 rical and harmonious design. 
 
 What to plant, or the right choice of hardy peren- 
 nials, involves the selection of the most effective and 
 longest blooming varieties, blossoming when most 
 needed, with no space wasted on any others. The 
 
 [2] 
 
THE SECRET OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 
 
 most reliable annuals also must be used to fill up the 
 gaps between the various periods of perennial bloom. 
 
 It is equally important that most of the annuals 
 shall belong to the class which blooms from mid-June 
 until frost, otherwise bare spaces may confront us. 
 When certain short-lived annuals are indispensable, 
 because of their beauty or usefulness, place them 
 near spreading plants that will later cover their vacant 
 places. 
 
 Where to plant includes the placing of plants at 
 regular intervals, and with regard to their season, 
 breadth, height, and color, while the matter of 
 
 When they bloom demands the consideration of the 
 various flowering periods in order to allow each period 
 equal representation in every section of the garden. 
 
 In later chapters imder these three headings there 
 is included the further information as to where and 
 when to sow these plants in order to have them in 
 flower according to the plan. 
 
 A GARDEN WITHOUT ANNUALS 
 
 Unless the flowering season is to be of short dura- 
 tion, I have yet to see a satisfactory plan for a per- 
 ennial garden without any annuals to complete its 
 bloom. When long and continuous bloom is required, 
 a plentiful supply of certain annuals is recommended. 
 
 Flower-beds of fairly large dimensions, containing 
 none but perennials, may possibly be kept in bloom 
 
 [3] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 for a little over eight weeks. But, as most of the 
 perennials take up much room and bloom but a few 
 weeks, it would require more than the space of an 
 ordinary garden-bed to have a long and continuous 
 "all-over" bloom with nothing but perennials.* 
 Another objection to depending altogether on peren- 
 nials is that the hardiness of some of them is not 
 always to be relied upon. Disease may take them, 
 or if, in an unusually severe winter a quantity are 
 killed, it may be impossible the following spring to 
 replace them satisfactorily. Large grown perennials 
 are difficult to obtain from the nurseryman, and some 
 varieties take three years to develop a strong bloom. 
 Annuals from good seeds never fail to develop quickly; 
 therefore, the perennial bed should be more or less 
 dependent upon a certain number and variety of 
 annuals. 
 
 * In Chart No. XI, at the end of the book, there is given a suggestion 
 for a bed of perennials, but it is not as satisfactory as where annuals are 
 included, at least when the flowering season is prolonged. 
 
 [4] 
 
Chapter II 
 WHERE TO SOW 
 
 HARDY PERENNIALS — THE OPEN NURSERY 
 
 All the perennials that are grown from seed may be 
 started in the open nursery — a propagating space 
 reserved outside of the garden. 
 
 Even after the garden has been planted, the nursery 
 should continue to keep in reserve a small supply of 
 well grown plants, especially those of the less long- 
 lived varieties, in order to be always ready to replace 
 the possible losses in the garden. The nursery will 
 then serve as well for a picking garden. Many of the 
 plants will self-sow, others will increase by root-spread- 
 ing, and the diflBculty will be to keep a small nursery 
 within bounds, if pests or extreme cold do not inter- 
 fere. To know the plants for the nursery, see the 
 chapter on "When to Sow." 
 
 For a new garden, it is well to begin sowing In the 
 nursery of perennials at least a year in advance of the 
 planting, unless well developed hardy perennials can 
 be purchased of the nurseryman, an expensive method 
 
 [5] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 of stocking a garden which may not appeal to the 
 average gardener. 
 
 Some of the favorite plants* should be two years 
 old before they are considered large enough to be ad- 
 mitted to the garden, where only strong bloomers are 
 desired. This rule is not only important for the pur- 
 pose of obtaining the full color effect the first year, 
 but also because the slower growing young perennials 
 in a crowded border are so insignificant that they may 
 be overlooked and hoed up by a careless gardener, or 
 else smothered by larger neighbors. 
 
 PLANTS BY PURCHASE 
 
 When a full-grown garden is wanted at once, un- 
 less economy forbids, the quickest way to secure it, 
 of course, is to purchase in large plants from a nursery- 
 man all that is required. But if these plants should 
 come very small, turn them into the nursery for a year 
 or two; even this will be quicker than raising at least 
 the slow-growing varieties from seed. 
 
 If the plants have to mature in a nursery, a garden 
 of annuals for one or two seasons would be an in- 
 teresting experiment. 
 
 Remember that in planning for just one fair-sized 
 clump of certain kinds of plants, it will take from three 
 to ten single nursery plants set near together to form 
 
 * Pyrethrum, Columbine, Delphinium (tall var.), Oriental Poppy, Platy- 
 codon, Statice. 
 
 [6] 
 
H £ 
 
WHERE TO SOW 
 
 the clump, i. e.. Phlox, hardy Asters, etc. With most 
 plants of the rapid root-spreading nature, it will take 
 one year for a small plant to triple its size. 
 
 The only perennials named in this book, not belong- 
 ing to this quick-spreading variety, are Lupin, Sweet 
 William, Dictamnus, Columbine, Sedum, Delphinium, 
 Platycodon, Foxglove, Hollyhock, Pyrethrum hybrid, 
 Anchusa, Statice, Salvia azurea. Poppy, (Enothera, 
 Gaillardia. All the rest named are fast root-spreaders, 
 which, once well started, will need to be divided every 
 two or three years (Peonies every five years). 
 
 WHERE TO sow — ANNUALS 
 
 When considering where to sow his annuals, the 
 gardener should remember that part of the scheme 
 for continuous bloom necessarily depends also on 
 when they are to be sown. 
 
 THE NURSERY 
 
 A nursery of some kind, for certain annuals at least. 
 Is indispensable to a garden of continuous bloom; pref- 
 erably in frames where they are more easily handled. 
 But when frames are not available, then a bit of open 
 ground somewhere for an open seed-bed and nursery 
 should be included in the gardener's calculations. 
 
 A nursery for the August-September sown hardy an- 
 nuals is a necessity. A frame is required for wintering 
 some of them in a cold climate. See "WTien to Sow." 
 
 [7] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 The under-glass sowing of certain useful annuals, by 
 April 1 or earlier, brings their first bloom by mid-June 
 when they are needed. (See lists on pages 34 and 37.) 
 If possible, one or more frames with glass sashes should 
 be used for the purpose of hastening the growth of 
 these special spring-sown seeds. 
 
 Near New York, as a rule, the cold-frame cannot 
 be safely used for spring-sown annuals much before April 
 1, but it is well not to delay sowing much beyond that 
 date. Sowing is usually begun in the hotbed by March 1. 
 
 If, however, there are no conveniences for them in 
 greenhouse, hotbed, or cold-frame, we must be content 
 with less late June bloom. We shall then sow all the 
 annuals out-of-doors at the proper season,* to await 
 germinating time, which differs slightly with the dif- 
 ferent plants, according to their nature and hardiness, 
 and depending on the climate in the open. Lacking 
 the facilities for coaxing certain ones to bloom by 
 mid-June, then around July 1 there will be more 
 than ever needed the fall-sown Anthemis, Feverfew, 
 Larkspur, and Canterbury Bells (C medium), and if 
 possible some well-grown Snapdragon. 
 
 Even on the smallest plot of land, a seed-bed and 
 nursery, whether in the open or within frames, can be 
 satisfactorily managed if the gardener will economize 
 space by not sowing the entire contents of a package 
 of seeds, when but half the amount is required. 
 
 * Heliotrope, Lobelia, Vinca, Impatiens, Torenia, Begonia excepted. 
 
 [8] 
 
WHERE TO SOW 
 
 Use the nursery space for certain annuals in suf- 
 ficient number to supply the definite places awaiting 
 them in the garden, omitting from the nursery such 
 varieties as can better be sown in the garden-bed. 
 
 The richer and finer the soil, the faster will the seed- 
 lings develop. SuflBcient watering, not more and not 
 less, is another important nursery rule. 
 
 Though the nursery start necessitates some extra 
 work on account of transplanting, to any valuable 
 possession a certain amount of trouble and respon- 
 sibility is attached; and a well planned nursery be- 
 hind a garden of continuous bloom means only a 
 reasonable expenditure of effort with endless satisfac- 
 tion as the reward. 
 
 When the problem of limited space is absent, how 
 fortunate the gardener ! Under glass and in the open, 
 he may then sow freely for the garden, the "picking" 
 garden, and the friend's garden. 
 
 SOWING IN THE GARDEN-BED 
 
 As elsewhere stated, all annuals named in this book 
 excepting Heliotrope, Begonias, etc., may be sown 
 in spring where they are to bloom, when early flow- 
 ering is not required of them. See footnote, page 8. 
 
 And again, it is perhaps needless to add, there are 
 some annuals which are always sown in the garden- 
 beds, because they do not transplant well. These 
 are Cleome, Poppies, Candytuft, Nasturtiums, an- 
 
 [9] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 nual Lupin, Lavatera, and Eschscholtzia; while Ca- 
 lendula, Calliopsis, Painted Daisies, and annual Gail- 
 lardia, often troublesome after transplanting, had 
 better be sown in their places too. 
 
 Generally Sweet Alyssum is sown in the garden, 
 but sometimes in the nursery when the early Pansies 
 are occupying too much of their space at the edge of 
 the bed. Sweet Alyssum transplants very well, and 
 with plenty of watering can replace the Pansies at 
 any time, when the latter must be replaced. 
 
 Experienced horticulturists believe that the self- 
 sown plants, either annuals or perennials, are the 
 hardiest, and most likely to produce the strongest 
 possible bloom, especially when not transplanted. For 
 this reason, it is sometimes advisable to allow a few 
 flowers of the self-sowing varieties to go to seed, and 
 when the young plants must be moved, the earth 
 should be soaked, and kept intact about the roots. 
 
 Except with a few varieties of annuals, it is easier 
 to sow and care for a quantity of seedlings in the 
 limited space of a nursery, and then to transplant 
 them when older into the beds, than it is to sow them 
 in the garden where they are to grow, and there to 
 try to watch and care for such young things in beds 
 already well occupied with large plants. In the latter 
 case many seedlings wUl suffer from shading. But 
 this advice does not necessarily apply to the low- 
 growing annuals for the front of a bed; for instance, 
 
 [10] 
 
WHERE TO SOW 
 
 when Pansies edge the front hne, it is often possible 
 to sow Sweet Alyssum or Portulaca 6 inches back 
 from the centre of the Pansy plants, to be ready to 
 bloom when Pansies are no longer at their best and 
 can be discarded. 
 
 The Pansies should be planted within 3 or 4 inches 
 of the edge. If they creep over the line all the better. 
 
 Calliopsis, var. Golden Wave, Calendula, Gail- 
 lardia. Painted Daisies, and Nasturtiums, may be sown 
 likewise around Sweet William and Tulips in order 
 to replace them later. The latter are cut down three 
 or four weeks after bloom: Sweet William may be dis- 
 carded when bloom begins to fade. 
 
 [11 
 
Chapter III 
 
 WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 The alternation of several periods of bloom 
 planted in lines is the main point in the secret 
 of well balanced, continuous bloom. 
 
 In order to economize room, and to systematize the 
 scheme to an orderly plan for giving the various bloom- 
 ing periods equal representation throughout the space 
 of one bed, plant in lines, and alternate in the lines the 
 plants of several different periods: for instance, in one 
 line alternate several times the plants of May and 
 June, or else of May, June, and July, i. e., Lupins, 
 Campanula medium, Foxglove, repeated two, three, 
 or more times. 
 
 Other plants of the same periods may appear in 
 alternation in another line, while still other lines will 
 show the alternate setting of other blooming periods 
 either with annuals, with perennials, or with both. 
 
 At each period have more than one line in flower 
 at a time (not every plant in the line), and always 
 with care that the front bloomers do not conceal those 
 behind. 
 
 [12] 
 
WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 OPEN BEDS AND WALL BEDS 
 
 Bed Space. — Long, continuous, balanced bloom with 
 perennials and annuals in small beds is a difficult 
 proposition, and it is best to plan a garden, if pos- 
 sible, with beds of rather large dimensions when plenty 
 of perennials are desired. An exception may be made 
 when a bed is against a wall, which can be planted 
 effectively if only 4 feet deep, but a larger space is 
 preferable because easier to plant. 
 
 The planting plans for the beds which are open, 
 on view from all sides, differ somewhat from those 
 for beds adjoining a boundary wall or hedge. 
 
 For convenience' sake the beds that are open on all 
 sides will be called open beds, and the beds adjoin- 
 ing a boundary line or wall which forms a background, 
 WALL beds. 
 
 THE open bed long AND NARROW 
 
 In the OPEN BED, the centre space where the tall- 
 est plants grow might be considered as the back- 
 ground. Unless the bed is quite wide, as in Chart 
 Vn, the centre of any open bed should not contain 
 the very tallest plants, e. g., early Cosmos. 
 
 When the open bed is much longer than wide, for 
 instance, 73^ by 28 feet (Chart IV), plant the middle 
 line with the moderately tall plants of four alternat- 
 
 [13] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 ing periods of bloom repeated several times. Study the 
 periods in chapter VI. See Plate III. 
 
 On either side of the middle line have two corre- 
 sponding identical lines of plants of two or three dif- 
 ferent periods, set out in repeated alternation, and 
 of somewhat lower growth than those in the centre 
 Une, preferably of annuals in a bed as narrow as 
 7 feet. If these annuals are as slender in form as 
 Campanula medium. Snapdragon, and Larkspur, an- 
 other close row of slender annuals might be snug- 
 gled in front of them, such as Salpiglossis, Vinca, 
 Scabiosa. 
 
 Next in order on two corresponding sides of the bed 
 run a line of perennials in three alternating periods. 
 
 Finally the bed should be bordered with low annuals. 
 
 About a foot back from the edge of the bed there 
 will be room for the brief bloom of Cottage Tulips. 
 
 While advising the gardener in search of continuous 
 bloom with perennials and annuals not to lay out 
 long OPEN BEDS as narrow as 3 or 4 feet, on account 
 of the extra amount of work necessary to care for 
 so many plants in a crowded area, and the difficulty 
 in keeping the earlj;- perennials from being smothered, 
 the illustration on page 24 should not be overlooked. 
 The planting is entirely within open beds which are 
 but S}/2 feet wide by 18 feet long. Chrysanthemum 
 is the only perennial used after June. The planting 
 is explained on pages 24 and 25. 
 
 [14] 
 
Plate III 
 
 Late June bloom 
 'Riverside Fiirm," Tyringham, Mass., Mrs. Banyer Clarkson 
 
 Long open bed 7' 2 feet wide, right side path 
 "Glen Alpine," Morristown, N. J., Mrs. C. W. McAlpin 
 
WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 LARGE OPEN BEDS, SQUARE, ROUND, OR OVAL 
 
 In a good-sized open bed, square, round, or oval, 
 i. e., 12 or more feet in diameter (Charts VI and VII), 
 the straight lines, already described in the 7 by 28 foot 
 bed, become circular lines around a centre space, which 
 centre forms the background of such beds. This cen- 
 tre measures from 2 to 3 feet in diameter, and con- 
 tains within its space two sets of tall plants: First, 
 a mass of spring flowers like Bluets (fall-sown) or 
 else three Lupins in a group with a few Cottage Tulips 
 — all tall for that period around June 1. Later, there 
 follows some ever blooming variety of annual, like 
 Zinnia, Marigold, or early Cosmos. Several plants 
 of any one of these varieties are placed around and 
 close to the outer lines of the centre space to spread over 
 it when early bloom is past, and Bluets are removed. 
 If perennial Lupins form the centre group, they are 
 not removed, but are unlikely to suffer from this 
 shading. If necessary to prevent crowding, a little 
 of their foliage could be nipped off. 
 
 Then the other lines encircling this bed (supposing 
 it to be 12 or 14 feet in diameter) can be planted 
 somewhat similar to those in the long 7 by 28 foot 
 bed, only on circles instead of on straight lines. (See 
 Chart VI.) When the diameter of the bed is over 
 14 feet, then plant additional circular line or lines of 
 alternating plants, allowing one extra line to every 2 J^ 
 feet of diameter. 
 
 [15] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 SMALLER OPEN BEDS, SQUARE, ROUND, OR OVAL 
 
 In the case of the smaller round, square, or oval 
 bed, measuring in diameter 10 feet or less, it is diffi- 
 cult to use a long succession of perennials to advan- 
 tage, unless some of them are removed after blooming, 
 which disturbance probably will kill them. A few 
 Chrysanthemums, lower Delphiniums, and Agrostem- 
 mas might be used, but prepare chiefly for annuals 
 and Tulips. In the middle of a bed, 8 to 10 feet 
 diameter, for first bloom, have a close mass of Bluets 
 and Silene within an 18-inch square. Later, replace 
 them with September flowering Chrysanthemums, h. p. 
 For the early season the bed is edged with Pansies 
 and English Daisies, and close behind them are Cot- 
 tage Tulips, alternating with Sweet William, discarded 
 after bloom. The Sweet William and Cottage Tulips 
 are later replaced with Petunia, Ageratum, Verbena, 
 or Heliotrope. 
 
 The Pansy* space is later an overflow for Petunias 
 or others on the adjoining line. 
 
 Behind the Petunia line for later bloom are Scabiosa, 
 Salpiglossis, and Snapdragon. And to the rear, still 
 another line of alternating fall-sown Larkspur, dwarf 
 Zinnia, and Canterbury Bells, encircling the central 
 Silene-Bluet group. See Chart VIII. 
 
 Taken from pots or with roots balled, Chrysanthe- 
 
 * Where the season opens late, Pansies and Daisies may be omitted. 
 
 [16] 
 
WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 mum, Heliotrope, etc., are easily moved at any time 
 in June or July. 
 
 Beds of these proportions as well as smaller beds 
 are also often filled with the lower annuals of one or 
 two varieties, i. e., first Pansies mixed with English 
 Daisies, and later a mass of some long blooming va- 
 riety, such as Petunia, or else blue Ageratum edged 
 with white Ageratum, or pink fibrous Begonia bor- 
 dered with Sweet Alyssum. 
 
 To make a close connection between the Pansy, 
 and, for instance. Petunia bloom, the following sug- 
 gestion is offered. Pansies may have been planted 
 out about May 10 or earlier. Petunias were started 
 under glass April 1. When Pansies shall have bloomed 
 about six weeks, their best days are over in warm 
 climates, so remove every other Pansy plant, replacing 
 them with Petunias, which as yet are not old enough 
 to be effective, but there is still some Pansy bloom 
 left. 
 
 When the Petunias begin to branch and bloom, the 
 remaining Pansies are ready for removal, and all the 
 spaces are soon covered with the tireless Petunia. 
 Because Ageratum and Verbena are likewise sprawling 
 plants, they can be used instead of Petunia, if pre- 
 ferred. 
 
 It would be possible also to sow in May the seeds 
 of Petunias or dwarf Calliopsis or Calendula, or other 
 quickly germinating seeds around the Pansies, trim- 
 
 [17] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 ming the latter slightly to give light to the seedlings; 
 but on account of the crowded quarters this is not 
 as likely to be a satisfactory method. 
 
 SEVEN FEET DIAMETER 
 
 In this small bed a plan similar to Chart VIII may 
 be adopted, except that the centre space should be 
 smaller and one line omitted. Zinnias might also be 
 omitted and replaced with Snapdragon. Then put 
 Sweet William in the Snapdragon place on Scabiosa 
 line, and scatter Tulips over the bed, setting the 
 Pansies close to the Scabiosa line. These smaller beds 
 are more satisfactory when filled with one or two 
 varieties of long blooming annuals. 
 
 Summary 
 
 Open Beds, Longer than Wide — 
 
 Width, 7 feet or more: Use perennials and annuals. 
 Width, 6 feet or less : Perennials difficult to handle. 
 
 Open Beds, Round, Square, Oval — 
 
 Diameter, 12 feet or more : Use perennials and annuals. 
 Diameter, 7-10 feet: Use a few perennials, preferably 
 
 annuals 4 feet high and less, and bulbs. 
 Less than 7 feet: Use annuals and bulbs. 
 
 THE WALL BED 
 
 In the WALL BED the tallest perennials and annuals 
 are, of course, placed in the rear line against the 
 background, whatever it may be. The plants in the 
 
 [18] 
 
WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 other lines graduate in height, down to the lower 
 edging of the bed. 
 
 It is no more diflSeult to plant effectively with per- 
 ennials and annuals the long wall bed, only 4 feet 
 wide, than it is to attain the desired effect in the 
 wider 7 by 28 foot open bed. This statement is not 
 for the purpose of advocating a 4 feet wide wall bed, 
 as one wider is preferable; but observe that in the 
 OPEN BED, after leaving the centre, each line is du- 
 plicated in order to give a well balanced effect to the 
 beds. This question of keeping the balance on both 
 sides of the open bed complicates the work of plant- 
 ing it. The WALL BED is different in this respect, and 
 easier to handle. 
 
 The WALL BED, like other beds, can have Pansies 
 for early bloom in front, followed by some long-hved 
 annuals to make an effective finish and to bloom 
 without intermission until frost. 
 
 Near the front of this bed there should appear a 
 taller row of annuals or perennials, possibly 15 inches 
 high, of three alternating periods. Farther back, an- 
 other line of annuals, or else annuals and perennials. 
 
 Then at the rear of the wall bed a line of still 
 taller growth, such as early Cosmos or Miniature Sim- 
 flowers, mixed with the tall perennials against the 
 background. 
 
 The foregoing suggests a plan for the narrowest 
 possible WALL bed containing perennials and annuals. 
 
 [19] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 (See Chart I and Plate IV). A wider bed with addi- 
 tional lines will be all the more effective. See Plate IV. 
 
 Another plan for continuous bloom in a narrow 
 (4-foot) bed against a background is the following: 
 
 Rear Line. — Alternate Lily candidum* and Oriental 
 Poppies. In a very long bed add to the line three, 
 tall Delphinium, one at each end and one in centre. 
 Two Cleome seeds may be sown in each Poppy space, 
 when the latter die down. 
 
 Next Line. — Alternate Anchusas Opal and tall Zin- 
 nias; in a very long bed, add to the line three groups 
 of pink Cannas in front of Delphiniums (three Can- 
 nas to a group). 
 
 Next Line. — Fall-sown Larkspurs and Canterbury 
 Bells, alternating. 
 
 Front Line. — Late Tulips, with Sweet Alyssum sown 
 early. 
 
 SPACES BEQUIRED FOR PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS 
 
 In a full garden of continuous bloom, root-spreaders 
 like the Phloxes cannot be allowed to attain very 
 wide proportions, unless the beds are spacious. A 
 safe rule would be to keep the Phlox clump down 
 to about twelve shoots, except in a very large garden. 
 
 A later chapter on "What to Plant" mentions the 
 number of single plants or shoots that certain clumps 
 
 * Lily candidum, will not survive the heavy shading of surrounding plants. 
 Stake adjoining Zinnias and Cleomes. 
 
 [20] 
 
Plate IV 
 
 
 
 
 Wall bed 4 feet wide 
 "Cl(.*n Alpine," Morristown, N. J. 
 
 i^M 
 
 ■t^f.- . 
 
 
 
 ^^SiM 
 
 
 
 
 ^9h 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 ^^^m^^^ 
 
 1^^ 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 t,- • &». 
 
 
 
 HH^nHpi^^F^^ij^ "^ 
 
 
 i;"'^^*^^'^*^ -^ 
 
 Wall bed 7 feet wide 
 "Onunda." jMadison, N. J., Mrs. D. Willi-. James 
 
WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 may ordinarily average. Read also section on "Plants 
 by Purchase," page 6. 
 
 With the non-spreaders, such as Lupin and Fox- 
 glove, in small beds it may not be possible to use 
 more than one plant to a space, but in a roomy bed 
 we should endeavor to group two or three such plants, 
 8 to 10 inches apart whenever the allotted space can 
 be made to contain them. 
 
 It is difficult to indicate in inches or feet the exact 
 space to be allowed each plant, the area varying from 
 6 to 24 inches. (Peonies and Dahlias take 3 feet.) 
 A good average, however, might be 15 square inches. 
 
 At the rear of a wall bed, where the strongest per- 
 ennials grow, full 18 inches separation is a safe rule, 
 and when the outer foliage of Hollyhock, Delphinium, 
 or Monkshood encroaches, it can be cut off. 
 
 When such annuals as early Cosmos and Minia- 
 ture Sunflower are added to the rear hardy line, the 
 full 18 inches need not be allowed them, as they make 
 their spread farther up and require less room at the 
 base. By late July these annuals, placed adjoining 
 Hollyhocks and Oriental Poppies, gracefully cover the 
 vacancies left by the earlier blooming perennials, and 
 blossom incessantly until frost. 
 
 ANNUALS VS. PERENNIALS AS EDGINGS 
 
 It is better always to use annuals for edging a bed 
 if a bright finish is desired during a long season. (See 
 
 [21] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 Plate VI.) When such perennials as Armeria, Achil- 
 lea tomentosa or Clove Pinks are grown in the front 
 line, there is nothing left by mid-June but their ever- 
 green foliage. If these plants should be alternated 
 with strong, long-blooming annuals, such as Ageratum 
 and Verbena, the latter would soon creep over their 
 perennial friends, which, for lack of light and air, 
 must turn sickly and will probably die. In a bed 
 for continuous bloom, it is impossible to plant in 
 efiFective alternation along the whole length of the 
 edge all the perennials that would be required to rep- 
 resent the various periods until frost. 
 
 If, however, it is desired to diminish the quantity 
 of annuals required for an edging, the following combi- 
 nation with perennials is suggested for one bed at least. 
 
 Plant the hardy, silvery, bushy Santolina incana 
 every 24 inches, and between plant groups of Cottage 
 Tulips. 
 
 Then plant in May, aromid the Tulips, a few Agera- 
 tum, white in some spaces, blue in others; or add to 
 some of these spaces other all-summer blooming an- 
 nuals, not much taller than the Ageratum. 
 
 Of the low growing perennials for an edging. For- 
 get-me-nots, Viola cornuta. Campanula Carpatica, and 
 blue Plumbago bloom the longest. Plumbago, with 
 one or two of the others named, could be satisfactorily 
 used without annuals when the garden is to bloom only 
 in May, June, and September. 
 
 [22] 
 
WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 In planting for a long blooming season, crowding is 
 more or less necessary. A careful staking and care 
 to remove unnecessary foliage will prevent injury to 
 a small plant in danger of being overshadowed by a 
 large one. Let hidden stakes support the larger plants 
 for the preservation of their symmetry, as well as for 
 the life of the smaller neighbors. 
 
 THE SCALLOPED EDGE 
 
 When a wall bed is sufficiently deep and long — not 
 less than 12 by 25 feet — an eflfective finish to the front 
 is produced by sowing Sweet Alyssum in scallops, 
 using slightly taller annuals like Petunias to fill the 
 scallops. See Plate VI and Chart X. 
 
 The scallops may measure about 2 to 3 feet in depth, 
 and 3 to 5 feet across the top from point to point, 
 which allows 5 to 8 scallops to a 25-foot bed. There 
 should be a space of from 4 to 6 inches between the 
 edge of the bed and lower end of curve. This space 
 can hold two lines of Sweet Alyssum, the lines in- 
 creasing in the wider spaces. Within the curves may 
 be placed Pansies in separate colors for early bloom, 
 followed by such long blooming annuals as pink Pe- 
 tunia, dwarf yellow Calliopsis, fibrous Begonia, Ver- 
 bena, Ageratum, Dianthus, or others of about the 
 same height. It will take possibly twenty-five of such 
 plants to fill a large curve, except in the case of Ver- 
 
 [23] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 bena, Ageratum, and Petunia, of which but twelve 
 may be required. 
 
 The scallops sometimes can be outlined with pink 
 Candytuft or yellow Sanvitalia or blue Brachycome, 
 set 6 inches apart. 
 
 Sown in the bed in April with Sweet Alyssum, Candy- 
 tuft will die out by the time the plants within the curve 
 are nearly full grown. Sanvitalia after a while will 
 creep out to mix most effectively with Sweet Alyssum 
 in a long bloom. 
 
 Sown in April, Sweet Alyssum will need to be cut 
 back in August about half-way, in order to prolong 
 its bloom until frost. Variety Little Gem is the best 
 for this plan. 
 
 A GARDEN OF NARROW BEDS, THREE AND ONE-HALP 
 FEET WIDE 
 
 The illustration facing this page shows a small 
 garden, which in spite of narrow beds is overflowing 
 with continuous bloom from May 1 till frost. Tulips, 
 a few May and June perennials, and several varieties 
 of annuals flourish here, but on account of the narrow 
 quarters, the gardener must be continuously vigilanf 
 to prevent the smothering of the smaller plants. 
 
 The first bloom brings the early Tulips, edging all 
 the beds and alternating with Pansies just behind the 
 box border, with three groups of these Tulips also in 
 the centre line of each bed. 
 
 [24 1 
 
Plate V 
 
 Continuous bloom in small beds 
 Crescent Manor, Morristown, N. J., Mrs. GcorKc C. Fraser 
 
 M 
 
 ^K 
 
 H 
 
 I^E 
 
 ^^f. 
 
 r-^^-'i^ 
 
 1?^ 
 
 ^^ma^ 
 
 i 
 
 W 
 
 i^*^,^ ^ 
 
 f 
 
 
 '^.' 
 
 
 
 Hiiiiii^ 
 
 Hlf n^^^HI 
 
 Pi 
 
 
 iB.:.. 
 
 
 
 . ik. .^. 
 
 ■ ■ ^^^^W^ 
 
 Z?j/ courtesy of Stiinipp & Waller 
 
 By eowrlesy of Mi-:-i Cornelia L. Clarkson 
 
 Lupins and gas plants 
 
WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 No sooner have they gone than the Cottage TuHps 
 appear on both sides of and close to the plants in the 
 centre line of every bed. Tulips are later removed. 
 
 The centre lines contain Lupins, Delphinium bella- 
 donna, Lilies, Larkspur, and hardy Chrysanthemums* 
 in alternation. 
 
 Running parallel with and close to the two Cottage 
 Tulip lines are two lines of alternating annuals, i. e.. 
 Campanula medium, Snapdragon, and Zinnia. 
 
 Some Sweet William are crowded in, and with Pan- 
 sies they are later discarded for Heliotrope, compact 
 Petunias, Ageratum, Impatiens,t etc., which are care- 
 fully moved to their places with balled roots, or from 
 pots. 
 
 The centre bed (7 feet diameter) of this garden is 
 devoted mainly to annuals and bulbs. The planting 
 is quite similar to plan on page 18. Intelligent, pains- 
 taking labor keeps this small garden blooming from 
 spring frost until autumn frost. See Chart IX. 
 
 * In late June, two Chrysanthemums are planted in each Lily space, 
 t Or Salpiglossis. 
 
 [25] 
 
Chapter IV 
 WHEN TO SOW 
 
 PERENNIALS 
 
 WTien depending on your own nursery for the first 
 garden supply all but a few of the plants named in 
 this chapter may be started from seeds, the earlier in 
 in the season, the better bloom the next year. The 
 most important plants to keep in stock afterward are: 
 First, those which take longest to mature, and which 
 may die out within five years; and, second, those 
 which grow quickly, but which are more or less short- 
 lived. 
 
 Start Two Years Before Required 
 
 KEEP SOME IN STOCK 
 
 Pyrethrum hybrid.* Salvia pratensis. 
 
 Columbine. Delphinium formosum. 
 
 Salvia azurea, var. Pitcheri. Delphinium hybrid. 
 
 Monkshood Wilsoni. Platycodon. 
 
 Anemone Japonica. Oriental Poppy. 
 
 These are likely to die within five years, excepting Poppy, 
 Platycodon, and Anemone Jap. 
 
 All self -sow quite freely excepting Platycodon, Anemone, 
 and Salvia azurea. 
 
 * The perennials most quickly killed by overcrowding are Pyrethrum 
 hybrid, Lily candidum, and Shasta Daisy. In a dry climate the Lupin 
 is better for some shading from the neighboring plants, but will suffer if 
 deprived of all air, dew, and water, as when the heavy foliage of a near-by 
 plant covers it over completely. 
 
 [26] 
 
WHEN TO SOW 
 
 Start Twelve Months Before Required 
 
 SHORTEK-LIVED — KEEP IN STOCK 
 
 Lupin polyphyllus. Anchusa Italica, Opal. 
 Lupin polyphyllus Moerheimi. Delphinium belladonna. 
 
 Gaillardia. Delphinium Chinense. 
 
 Foxglove. Campanula persicifolia. 
 
 Hollyhock. Sweet Rocket 
 
 Sweet William. (Enothera Youngi. 
 
 Agrostemma cor. Shasta Daisy. 
 
 Those on left column are the shorter-lived. All self-sow 
 freely except (Enothera, Campanula persicifolia, and Delphin- 
 ium Chinense. To bloom well twelve months after sowing 
 Lupins need the best soil and watering. 
 
 Start Twelve Months Before Required 
 
 NO RESERVE STOCK NECESSARY 
 
 Rarely die out — start enough seeds for the first garden 
 planting,* if plants are not bought of the nurseryman. 
 
 Achillea "Pearl." Helenium, Riverton Gem. 
 
 Lychnis Chalcedonica, white. Helenium, Riverton Beauty. 
 
 Coreopsis lanceolata. Valerian officinalis, alba. 
 
 Statice latifolia requires two Rudbeckia purpurea, 
 
 years to grow. Gypsophila paniculata. 
 
 Seeds Not Obtainable — Buy Plants 
 
 NO RESERVE STOCK NECESSARY 
 
 If only a few of each can be afforded, allow them two or 
 three years to spread by root in nursery in order to secure 
 quantity desired for garden; or else for inmiediate use pur- 
 chase total number of plants needed for each and every 
 clump.* 
 
 * Under "What to Plant" find the number of separate (nursery) plants 
 required to make one clump sufficiently large to take a place in the garden. 
 
 [27] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 Irises — German. Eupatorium coelestinum. 
 
 Irises — Japan. Veronica, long subsess. 
 
 Lemon Lily — Hemerocallis. Sedum spectabile. 
 
 Ranunculus acris fl. pi. Dictamnus — Gas Plant, non- 
 Phlox — late. spreader. 
 
 Phlox — Miss Lingard. Asters — Tall late August. 
 
 Peonies. 
 
 Under congenial conditions — sunshine, rich soil, and 
 watering — all plants named, when sown in April and 
 May, will give satisfaction the following year, except- 
 ing those where otherwise noted. Sow them in spring, 
 rather than in summer, whenever possible. If they 
 must be sown in summer keep the seedlings moist, 
 also shaded for at least half the day until mid- 
 September. 
 
 Instead of requiring it to live through two years. 
 Sweet William is so easily grown that it is best to give 
 it the same treatment as the Campanula medium, i. e., 
 same date of sowing, May 1, in nursery, and discard 
 it after its first bloom, using its space after bloom for 
 later annuals. 
 
 Of the plants named above, Dictaumus is the 
 slowest growing and, therefore, the one variety above 
 all others to be purchased first, in as large plants as 
 possible, and planted as soon as possible in a per- 
 manent place. It must be established several years 
 before its bloom is satisfactory; it is better therefore 
 never to disturb it. 
 
 [28 
 
WHEN TO SOW 
 
 HARDY ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 
 
 Hardy annuals may be divided into three classes 
 or degrees of hardiness. 
 
 The First Class 
 
 The hardiest of the best hardy annuals are Bluets* 
 (Corn-flower), Silene armeria, Shirley Poppies and Lark- 
 spur,* with the perennial Forget-me-not, var. palustris 
 semperflorens, Anthemis, and Feverfew, treated as 
 hardy annuals. 
 
 Fall-Soivn. — When sown the previous year in August, 
 these plants, blooming the following May, June, and 
 July, greatly assist in the scheme of continuous bloom. 
 In most climates they survive the winter well in the 
 open ground, needing only a sprinkling of leaves or 
 salt-hay to keep them warm. 
 
 Self-sown in summer and usually germinating in 
 August, they are by nature May and June bloomers, 
 which, with Campanula medium (biennial Canterbury 
 Bell), are quite indispensable to this period — the Lark- 
 spurs lasting through July, or later. 
 
 Feverfew and Forget-me-not palustris flower all sum- 
 mer, but, like Viola cornuta, bloom so weakly in the 
 latter half of the summer that for this period at least 
 some gardeners prefer not to depend on them alone. 
 
 * In a mild climate it is better to sow Bluets and Larkspurs not earlier 
 than September 1 to 12 to prevent their growing too tall before winter; 
 they are thus less likely to be broken by snow and ice and more easily 
 transplanted in spring. 
 
 [29] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 Consequently they sow the spreading variety of Sweet 
 Alyssum close to the line of Forget-me-nots, which is 
 later partly covered by the creeping white sprays that 
 mingle well with the scantier blossoms of sky-blue. 
 
 After the first splendid bloom (July 1) of fall-sown 
 Feverfew, some of us choose to replace it with the 
 same plants, spring-sown; either by transplanting the 
 latter from the open spring nursery sometime in Jirne, 
 or else by sowing seeds of Feverfew in April near their 
 older brothers in the garden. Spring-sown outdoors, 
 it blooms by August. 
 
 All the annuals of the hardiest class may be sown 
 also in the spring. 
 
 Shirley Poppies sown April 1 in the garden, bloom 
 in late June, and are not transplantable. 
 
 The Second Class 
 
 Sown August. — In this class are the Pansies, Eng- 
 lish Daisies, Snapdragon, Dianthus, and the biennial 
 Forget-me-not, var. alpestris Victoria, etc. 
 
 For early bloom they also should be sown in August 
 of one year to bloom the next May and June, and as 
 a rule they are only safely wintered in a cold-frame 
 (glass or slat top) from New York City northward. 
 Occasionally, where they have a well protected posi- 
 tion with covering, they may survive a cold winter in 
 the open, but, except Dianthus, the risk is not worth 
 taking. 
 
 [30] 
 
WHEN TO SOW 
 
 8pring-S(ywn. — This class may be sown as well in 
 spring in the open ground when early bloom is not 
 required. Forget-me-nots and English Daisies excepted, 
 or else in the early spring under glass in order to 
 hasten the bloom. 
 
 The beautiful Jime Campanula medium, biennial, 
 (Canterbury Bell) for best results should be started 
 in the open nursery in May to blossom a year later 
 for three or foiu* weeks, and not again. It is about 
 as hardy as the Pansy. 
 
 The garden cannot have too many plants of Snap- 
 dragon, Larkspur, Campanula medium, and Feverfew. 
 They are easily reared, occupy but a small space, and 
 if sown the preceding year, will finish blooming the 
 next season by the time the spring-sown plants are 
 ready to replace them. They can be replaced by their 
 kind (except Campanula) or others. It is only when 
 Snapdragon is forced to begin full flowering in early 
 Jvme that it requires to be replaced in August by 
 Snapdragon from a later sowing. 
 
 The Gardener's Guide in Brief 
 
 SUMMARY OP foregoing PAGES 
 
 First-Class Hardy Annuals 
 
 August-sown Bluets (Corn-flower), 
 
 (the 25th). Silene armeria. 
 
 Open nursery. Shirley Poppies, sow in garden only. 
 
 Larkspurs. 
 
 Anthemis tinctoria Kelwayi, yellow. 
 
 [31] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 Anthemis tinctoria, creamy. 
 Feverfew, double white. 
 Forget-me-not, var. palustris semperflo' 
 rens (sow August 1). 
 
 These hardiest annuals, except Forget-me-nots, may be 
 sown also in spring in the open to bloom later in the season 
 — August, and Poppies bloom earlier. 
 
 Second-Class Hardy Annuals 
 
 August-sown. Pansies.* 
 
 English Daisies. 
 
 Snapdragon. 
 
 Dianthus, Pinks. 
 
 Forget-me-not, var. alpestris hybrid. 
 
 These also may be sown in the open in spring to bloom 
 later the same year, excepting Forget-me-not and English 
 Daisy. 
 
 Of course, the early bloom may be had from most 
 of these plants by sowing them in February in hot- 
 bed or greenhouse; but why take up so much valu- 
 al)le greenhouse or hotbed space, unless for Snap- 
 dragon, if it is possible to start them in the open 
 nursery the preceding year, to bring bloom in May 
 and June? 
 
 Third-Class Hardy Annuals 
 
 Spring-Sown. — Sweet Alyssum and Candytuft, the 
 earliest to germinate, Eschscholtzia, Calliopsis, Calen- 
 
 * For bloom beginning in April, sow Pansies early in August; for mid- 
 May bloom, sow August 30. 
 
 [32] 
 
WHEN TO SOW 
 
 dula, Tagetes, Gaillardia, Nicotiana, Portulaca, Nas- 
 turtium, Lupin, Lavatera, Zinnia, Globe Amaranth, 
 Sunflower, Early Cosmos, Marigold, and Petunia belong 
 to the third and stUl less hardy class of hardy annuals, 
 and yet some of them are the first to bloom from 
 seeds sown early in the open. While unable to with- 
 stand the winter cold even in a cold-frame, most of 
 them will germinate in spring without a glass covering 
 while the air is still chilly. 
 
 Frame space is not required for Sweet Alyssum, 
 Calliopsis, Tagetes, Salvia farinacea, Gaillardia, Nico- 
 tiana, Portulaca, Eschscholtzia, Calendula, Candy- 
 tuft, Lupin, Nasturtium, Lavatera, and the last six 
 are not easily transplanted, but when frames are avail- 
 able, use them for forcing the earlier bloom of the following. • 
 Zinnia, Petunia, Cosmos, Globe Amaranth, Sunflower, 
 Marigold. 
 
 This advice applies especially to the use of the cold- 
 frame near New York City east and west and north- 
 ward to Poughkeepsie. Within this area there are 
 doubtless some very sheltered open places where Zin- 
 nia at least might make almost as early a start and 
 blossom almost as soon as in a frame, -providing, how- 
 ever, that an unusual late frost does not affect the 
 growth, The gardener will soon learn what to ex- 
 pect of his annuals in his own garden. 
 
 [33] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 FOR BLOOM TILL FROST 
 
 The Gakdenee's Guide in Brief 
 summary op preceding page 
 
 
 Third-Class Hardy Annuals 
 
 Spring-sown 
 April 1. 
 Under glass, 
 if possible. 
 
 Zinnia. 
 
 Globe Amaranth. 
 
 Sunflower (miniature). 
 
 Cosmos, early. 
 
 Marigold, African. 
 
 Petunia. 
 
 First Division. 
 
 {First bloom, late June.) 
 
 April 15. 
 Open bed 
 preferably. 
 
 * Lupin (blooms 6 weeks). 
 
 * Candytuft " " " 
 Sweet Alyssum. 
 Calliopsis. 
 
 * Calendula. 
 Tagetes. 
 
 Salvia farinacea (July). 
 
 Second Division. 
 
 {First bloom, June.) 
 
 May 1. 
 Open beds. 
 
 Gaillardia. 
 Portulaca. 
 Nicotiana. 
 
 * Nasturtium. 
 
 * Eschscholtzia. 
 
 Third Division. 
 {First bloom, July.) 
 
 * Lavatera (blooms 4 weeks). 
 
 The plan for continuous bloom demands that these 
 plants of the first division be started under glass by 
 April 1. Those in the second and third division are 
 better sown in the open. Those marked with a star 
 should not be transplanted if avoidable. 
 
 Portulaca, Petunia, and Nicotiana do not germinate 
 in the ofen ground until nearly the first of June. 
 
 [34] 
 
Plate Vl 
 
 Continuous bloom of annuals bordering brick path 
 " Cherrycroft " 
 
 The scallop edge 
 "Cherrycroft," Morristown, N. J., Dudley Olcott, Esq. 
 
WHEN TO SOW 
 
 THE TENDER ANNUALS 
 
 Spring-Sown. — The tender annuals belong to a class 
 of annuals that cannot survive the slightest touch of 
 frost. They may be sown in the open (most of them) 
 or else all may be planted out, only when danger of 
 frost is past. However, when certain varieties are 
 required to bloom in June, sow them in hotbed, win- 
 dow-box, or greenhouse, from February 15 to March 15. 
 The tender annuals advised are: Verbena, Begonia, 
 Ageratum, Vinca, Lobelia, Salpiglossis, Torenia, Cocks- 
 comb, Aster, Scabiosa, Painted Daisy, Balsam, Cle- 
 ome. Heliotrope, Impatiens. 
 
 Heliotrope and tuberous Begonias are best raised 
 by cuttings in greenhouse heat. Choice Verbenas are 
 sometimes propagated by cuttings. Lacking green- 
 house or hotbed for starting them very early, the 
 above-named may be purchased in plants, or Agera- 
 tum, Salpiglossis, Torenia, Vinca, and Verbena could 
 be started like Zinnias in the cold-frame April 1, 
 which would be better than still later sowing in the 
 open ground, as they are slow growing. 
 
 Cockscomb, Aster, Scabiosa, Painted Daisy, Balsam, 
 and Cleome are not required until later, so they may 
 be sown in the open in May, and transplanted, if neces- 
 sary, excepting Cleome and Painted Daisy, which do 
 not transplant well in some places. 
 
 In spite of their beauty, it might not be feasible to ad- 
 [35 1 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 mit into a small garden of continuous bloom such short- 
 lived annuals as Schizanthus, Godetia, and Clarkia. 
 But when beds are very large they may be entered as 
 additional luxuries in small groups alternating with 
 plants of one or two other periods of bloom. For 
 instance, with Larkspur and Celosia spicata, or with 
 Larkspur and Gladioli, the latter planted July 1; or 
 with September hardy Chrysanthemums and groups 
 of Scabiosa. These are all slim plants, and may be 
 set about 6 inches apart, except Chrysanthemums, 
 10 inches apart. 
 
 86 I 
 
WHEN TO SOW 
 
 FOR BLOOM TILL FROST 
 
 The Gardener's Guide in Brief 
 
 SUMMARY OF PRECEDING PAGES 
 
 
 Tender Annuals 
 
 
 Spring-sown. 
 
 Lobelia. 
 
 First Division. 
 
 March 1 to 15. 
 
 Begonia, fibrous. 
 
 
 Hotbed or green- 
 
 Begonia, tub., cuttings. 
 
 
 house. 
 
 Heliotrope, cuttings. 
 
 Impatiens, light pink. 
 
 Ageratum. 
 
 Vinca. 
 
 Salpiglossis. 
 
 Torenia. 
 
 Verbena. 
 
 
 April 1, cold-frame. 
 
 Cockscomb. 
 
 Second 
 
 or 
 
 Asters. 
 
 Division. 
 
 May 15, open bed. 
 
 Scabiosa. 
 Balsam. 
 Cleome. 
 Painted Daisy. 
 
 
 In order to take their places promptly in the scheme 
 for continuous bloom, those in the first division must 
 be started early under glass. If there is suflBcient 
 frame space, those in the second division may be 
 started in the cold-frame, except Cleome and Painted 
 Daisy, which are better for being sown where they 
 are to grow. 
 
 [37] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 In this scheme for continuous bloom, the sowing 
 dates given provide that late June shall be the week 
 when many of the spring-sown annuals shall com- 
 mence to furnish a fair bloom. Lupin, Lavatera, 
 English Daisy, Silene, Poppy, Candytuft, Asters, Bal- 
 sam, Salpiglossis, and Cleome are the only annuals 
 named in this chapter that do not blossom for sev- 
 eral months in congenial climate. 
 
 In the author's garden the mid-June sowing of at 
 least some of the annuals — Zinnia, Larkspur, Aster, 
 and feathered Celosia — is unsatisfactory, as the plants 
 not having made a certain start before June 15 are 
 more or less stunted for the rest of the season. This 
 may not be the case in a cool and moist climate. 
 
 [38] 
 
Chapter V 
 WHEN TO PLANT 
 
 In one way or another, a garden may be commenced 
 at any season. It is never too late to make some 
 kind of a start for the future. Spring, of course, 
 brings the most opportunity for work, and it is the 
 best time for sowing perennials and Campanula medium 
 for the next year. 
 
 When desiring in summer to begin a new garden, 
 one can devote first eJBforts to laying out the beds 
 after consulting Chapter III on bed space: also a 
 seed-bed or nursery may be prepared with the aid 
 of suggestions given in Chapter II, in order to stock 
 the future garden at a lesser expense than when plants 
 are purchased. Important work can be accomplished 
 in August, for then is the very best time for planting 
 the Poppy, Lily candidum. Peony, and German Iris, 
 and for sowing certain hardy annuals as explained 
 on page 29. With perennial seeds, the earlier sown 
 the better for plants that should give satisfactory 
 bloom the next year. 
 
 HARDY PERENNIALS 
 
 May blooming hardy perennials should be moved, 
 if possible, in the autumn; the earlier the better in 
 
 [39 1 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 order to become rooted before frost. When the early- 
 flowering plants are moved in the spring, it means 
 that the first season's bloom will be more or less af- 
 fected by the disturbance of the roots. Perennial 
 Lupins seem to be an exception to this rule. 
 
 The perennials beginning to bloom by mid-June or 
 later may be set out either in the early spring or in 
 the fall not later than October 15. This is a safe 
 rule, although when occasion requires it, the experi- 
 enced gardener often takes his chances, and success- 
 fully, with later fall planting. Exceptions to the rule 
 for spring and fall planting were just mentioned in 
 connection with Lily, Poppy, etc., but, of course, these 
 plants may be moved at other times as well. 
 
 THE HARDY ANNUALS 
 
 First Class 
 
 The August-sown hardy annuals of the first class — 
 Silene, Bluets, Feverfew, Larkspur, Forget-me-not 
 (h. p.), and Anthemis — wintered in the open ground 
 or frame, need not to be disturbed until transplanted 
 in early April to the garden-bed, or as soon as the 
 ground can be dug over and enriched, allowing a day 
 for the settling of the soil. 
 
 Where the winter climate is mild, it is also possible 
 to transplant them all from the nursery to the garden 
 by October 1 (not later for annuals), lest the cold in- 
 jure those weakened by moving. As a result, they 
 
 [40 1 
 
WHEN TO PLANT 
 
 might blossom a week or two earlier than when dis- 
 turbed in the spring. However, transplanting them 
 to the garden as early as October 1 is usually made 
 impossible by the fact that the beds are filled with 
 flowering plants at this period. 
 
 At transplanting time a few plants of each variety 
 may be left to bloom in the open nursery, where they 
 will resow themselves for next year's bloom. In this 
 case, if possible, keep at a distance from one another 
 the different colors of Larkspur, so that their seeds 
 will not be as likely to mix. The gardener, however, 
 may prefer to sow annually his favorite colors, as 
 self-sown seeds cannot be relied upon to come true. 
 
 The hardy annuals. Bluets, Silene, and Larkspur, 
 when sown in the spring under glass or in the open 
 nursery, may be moved when 2 to 4 inches high. 
 They don't transplant well if taller. For the purpose 
 of replacing the fall-sown Larkspur and Feverfew, these 
 same varieties sown in spring can be kept in pots, if 
 convenient, to make easier the late transplanting. 
 
 Shirley Poppies must not be transplanted at any 
 time. 
 
 Second Class 
 
 The hardy annuals of the second class, Pansies, 
 English Daisies, Dianthus Pinks, Snapdragon, Forget- 
 me-not alpestris, when sown in August should be trans- 
 planted by mid-September to 5 to 6 inches apart in 
 
 [41] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 the cold-frame, or wherever they are to winter. In 
 April they may be moved to the garden. If Dian- 
 thus and Snapdragon and Forget-me-not are moved in 
 early April, it is well to supply them for a while with 
 a light protection of leaves or hay in case of a severe 
 spring frost. Dianthus is the hardiest of this class, 
 and will sometimes survive winter in the open, if not 
 moved too late in the fall. 
 
 Campanula medium, when large enough, should be 
 transplanted in the open nursery 6 inches apart, and 
 again transplanted to the cold-frame in September, 
 set 8 or 9 inches apart. By April 15 it can be safely 
 moved to the garden. 
 
 Third Class 
 
 Spring-Planted Only. — The third class of hardy an- 
 nuals, those sown only in spring, Zinnia, etc., although 
 classed as hardy, if started early under glass, are on 
 this account more tender than when sown in the open. 
 They should, therefore, not be set out before May 20, 
 when severe frost no longer threatens. If they have 
 been sown in the open, they can be transplanted when- 
 ever convenient. 
 
 TENDER ANNUALS 
 
 The tender annuals sown under glass should not 
 be moved to the garden until after all possibility of 
 frost, which is the last of May near New York. 
 
 [42] 
 
WHEN TO PLANT 
 
 TRANSPLANTING 
 
 Most annuals will invariably live after being trans- 
 planted if properly as well as sufficiently watered. 
 
 Enough cannot be said toward urging the gardener 
 first to puddle the holes when setting out the stronger- 
 rooted plants. The surface of the ground should also 
 be watered after the hole is closed over the roots. 
 
 With the small, frail seedlings like Petunia a diflPerent 
 sort of watering is necessary. First, soak thoroughly 
 the surface of the soil, where the small plants are to 
 grow; wait five minutes for the water to absorb, and 
 then with a finger or stick make holes the depth of 
 the rootlets for each plant, gently pressing in the damp 
 soil over the roots. Don't sprinkle the newly set seed- 
 lings for twenty-four hours, when they will be strong 
 enough to stand erect under a light spraying. 
 
 When setting out small plants, like Cosmos, they 
 may need to be supported by stakes to be kept erect. 
 Instead of tying them at first, an operation which takes 
 more time, it is often better to protect and steady each 
 one with three twigs until the stem grows strong; by 
 this means, too, they are kept safe from trespassing 
 cat, dog, or heedless human. When they shall have 
 grown larger they can be tied to a stronger stake, if nec- 
 essary. The dead-wood removed from shrubbery is 
 very useful for this purpose. 
 
 In the spring just before planting time spread a 
 [43] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 good layer of sheep's manure over the bed intended for 
 annuals, and have the manure dug under only 2 inches 
 deep and no more. It works down fast enough and 
 most annuals are shallow-rooted. If the soil is not 
 especially rich more sheep's manure and bone-meal 
 can be added a little later in the season. Some of the 
 finest gardens are never given any barnyard manure, 
 which Is ^'•e likely to bring weeds and pests. 
 
 Wx. ^r 1SIG OF PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS 
 
 All the hardy perennials in the open nursery and 
 the garden need more or less covering during the 
 winter months. If available, there is no better pro- 
 tection than salt-hay. 
 
 Fall-sown (August to September) Larkspur, Silene 
 armeria, Bluets, Feverfew, Anthemis, and Forget-me- 
 not, var. palustris, winter just as well in the open as 
 in a frame, except in an extremely cold climate. 
 
 Pansies, English Daisies, Snapdragon, and Dianthus 
 sown in late August in the open nursery, are trans- 
 planted later to frames for the winter, at least near 
 New York and northward, where risks are avoided. 
 
 Campanula medium sown in May or June in the 
 open nursery to bloom the following year needs the 
 same winter protection as the Pansy. 
 
 Where certain annuals must be wintered in cold 
 frames, we should plan so that the frames contain 
 none but the plants demanding such protection; then 
 
 [44] 
 
WHEN TO PLANT 
 
 in spring, just as soon as the frost is out of the ground, 
 transplant them to the garden-beds, in order to allow 
 for the use of the frame as a nursery for spring-sown 
 annuals. 
 
 Plants to be protected in cold-frames may have 
 either the glass sash or else a square top made of laths, 
 with a 1-inch space between each lath. The latter is 
 suflBcient protection for Pansies, Engli"; ^"isies. 
 Snapdragon, etc., except in a very ate. 
 
 Some fine manure is always worked i lUu the 
 
 plants, not over them, and a thin layer of hay or leaves 
 covers them lightly. The laths keep out the heavy 
 snow and the full sunshine, supplying a more even 
 temperature than when under glass. The glass cover 
 needs to be lifted on mild winter days to prevent 
 overheating, but if it is not lowered at night, damage 
 may result. The wooden top needs no attention; it 
 should only be removed when the plants are ready 
 for the spring growth. 
 
 In the northern climate, where snow forms a winter 
 covering, it is considered to be about the safest sort 
 of protection. Biennial Canterbury Bells are some- 
 times wintered in the open with manure above the 
 roots, but not covering the plant itself, leaving the 
 crown of the plant to be protected by brush or boughs 
 from the heavy pressure of snow. 
 
 [45 
 
Chapter VI 
 WHEN THEY BLOOM 
 
 THE PERIODS 
 
 In the region of New York City at least, the garden 
 bloom may be divided into eight flowering periods, be- 
 ginning about May 1. 
 
 If, however, the beds are to he filled with color, con- 
 tinuously during the long season, which ends only with 
 frost, then usually space must be saved somewhere by 
 the omission of at least one of these periods. 
 
 Accordingly, the opening time in some gardens is 
 generally the second period. May 22, when German 
 Iris appears, and the late Tulips are still blooming; 
 though it is often possible to include the first period 
 by the use of a profusion of early Tulips, which oc- 
 cupy no space when their flowers are gone. 
 
 The other plants that have ceased to bloom when the 
 German Iris begins, belong to the first period, and as 
 a rule are deemed eligible only for the spring garden 
 set apart by itself. Ordinarily this plan is preferable, 
 as early May flowers are mostly low growing and 
 small-flowered, necessitating too much of each variety 
 before the color effect is obtained, and therefore making 
 
 [46] 
 
WHEN THEY BLOOM 
 
 them impracticable for the garden crowded with plants 
 of the other periods. 
 
 However, early spring perennials may have their 
 places in the main garden when the owner is to be at 
 home in May, and absent during some later periods. 
 The flowers that will bloom only during his absence 
 can then be omitted, allowing the use of that space for 
 the earliest bloomers. 
 
 In a colder climate, where plants make a later start, 
 the blooming periods arrive in closer succession, the 
 earlier periods almost blending in one period; the 
 frost comes earlier, the season is shorter; therefore 
 in the North plantiag for continuous bloom is not as 
 complicated a task; there are fewer periods for which 
 to provide and a lesser number of varieties of plants 
 required. 
 
 First Period * 
 
 The most useful plants for early spring are the fol- 
 lowing: 
 
 May 1-22 
 
 Doronicum. Hyacinths. 
 
 Early Tulips. Arabis. 
 
 Phlox divaricata. Mertensia Vir. 
 
 Phlox subulata. Pansies. 
 
 Bleeding-Heart. English Daisy. 
 
 Forget-me-not. Hardy Candytuft. 
 Primroses — Primulas . 
 
 * The flowers of early May, which is the first period, will be more thor- 
 oughly considered in a later chapter on "Spring Gardens." 
 
 [47] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 Second Period 
 In this season of late May, the Pansies, English 
 Daisies, Forget-me-nots are already edging the beds, 
 and the Darwin and Cottage Tulips of every rainbow 
 tint are adding wonderful colors. The garden is soon 
 radiant with 
 
 May 22 
 
 Valerian officinalis. Ranunculus acris 11. pi. 
 
 German Iris. Columbine, tall vars. 
 
 Lemon Lily. Gas Plant — Frdxinella. 
 
 Oriental Poppy. Pyrethrum hybrid. 
 
 Lupin polyphyllus. Salvia pratensis. 
 
 Silene armeria. Campanula persicifolia. 
 
 Bluets (Corn-flower). Peony. 
 Sweet Rocket. 
 
 Third Period 
 When some of the foregoing have passed and others 
 are lingering, i. e., Pyrethrum, Peony, Lupin poly.. 
 Columbine, Salvia, Campanula persic., Silene, and 
 Bluets, then arrive the 
 
 June 5 
 Sweet William. Anchusa Ital., Opal. 
 
 Lupin poly. Moerheimi. (Enothera Youngi. 
 
 Campanula medium. 
 
 Fourth Period 
 This week is the richest in hardy bloom, those of the 
 last period remaining a while with the newly arrived. 
 
 [48] 
 
Plate VIII 
 
 From photographs by The Morris Studio 
 
 Cur\4ng grass paths 
 Meadow Club, Southampton, L. I. 
 
WHEN THEY BLOOM 
 
 June 20 
 
 Delphinium (all). Feverfew. Agrostemma cor. 
 
 Coreopsis. Candytuft. Anthemis. 
 
 Foxglove. Lily candidum. Lupin, annual. 
 
 Lychnis Chal. Gaillardia. Sweet Alyssum. 
 
 Larkspur. 
 
 Fifth Period 
 Indispensable at this period are the Anthemis, Fever- 
 few, and Larkspur, of which one variety at least should 
 appear profusely in every bed. Now or possibly a 
 little earlier the following perennials may be expected: 
 
 July 1* 
 
 Hollyhocks. Japanese Iris. Achillea Pearl. 
 
 Shasta Daisy. Phlox Lingard. Platycodon. 
 
 Gladioli— Planted May 1. 
 
 Up to this time the bloom of the early spring-sown 
 annuals has been but a weak suggestion of the color 
 to come. The time for anticipating the full glory of 
 the annual family (spring-sown) varies from July 1 
 to August 1, depending on climate, germinating time 
 and place. Sweet Alyssum and Candytuft, sown 
 April 15, reach their perfection by June 20. 
 
 Sixth Period 
 
 Unless spring-sown annuals have been early pushed, 
 and unless Larkspurs are plentiful, the mid-July bloom 
 may wane at this time, until the late Phloxes and a 
 few other perennials shall appear toward the end of 
 the month. 
 
 *Iii our uncertain cUmate these dates are somewhat variable. 
 [49] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 July 20 
 Phlox. Rudbeckia purpurea. 
 
 Veronica, long subsess. Gypsophila paniculata. 
 
 Dahlia, cactus, etc. Echinops sphseroceph. 
 
 Eryngium amethystinum. Cannas, pink and white. 
 
 Statice latifolia. All the annuals. 
 
 Seventh Period 
 Late August has a variety of perennials that are 
 especially free-flowering, giving unusual color to this 
 period. 
 
 August 25 
 
 Asters, hardy. Helenium, Riverton Gem. 
 
 Pyrethrum uUginosum. Helenium, Riverton Beauty. 
 
 Sedum spectabile. Anemone Japonica. 
 
 Salvia azurea and S. Pitcheri. Eupatorium coelestinum. 
 
 Eighth Period 
 September 15 
 
 Monkshood Wilsoni. Chrysanthemum (Sept. var.). 
 Gladioli, planted July. Long-blooming annuals continued. 
 
 In October the Chrysanthemums are the only worth- 
 while perennials. The indefatigable annuals, such 
 as Zinnias, Petunias, Marigolds, Verbenas, Ageratum, 
 etc., are wearing a rusty appearance, making one feel 
 that after all frost is not an unwelcome visitor this 
 month. His blight saves us from brooding too long 
 over a tired garden, when it is more important to be 
 at work cleaning up and preparing for another year. 
 
 150] 
 
COLOR 
 
 Chapter VII 
 WHAT TO PLANT— PERENNIALS 
 
 Single afar indicates desirable plants not appearing in the charts at the end 
 of the volume. Double star indicates a useful plant for separate spring garden. 
 
 HARDY PERENNIALS 
 
 In planning a garden, read carefully to become 
 familiar with names and habits of these plants. month 
 
 HEIGHT 
 
 White Achillea ptarmica, var. The Pearl: Double Sneeze- July i 
 wort. A rapid spreader. Yearly the outer shoots ^ ^*' 
 need to be removed to keep the clump within its 
 limited square. In the third year, lift the clump and 
 renourish the soil. Transplant early in the spring. 
 Thrives in any good soil. Needs staking. Use only in 
 very large beds, preferring Phlox Lingard instead for 
 smaller beds, as the latter occupies less space and is 
 easier to handle. 
 
 AcoNiTUM. See Monkshood. 
 
 Garnet Agrostemma, var. coronaria {Lychnis coronaria) : july-Sept. 
 
 ^•*^ Dusty Miller, Rose Campion, Mullem Pink. Woolly, ^H ft. 
 silvery foliage; occupies but little space. Keep stock 
 on hand from self-sown seedlings. Prefers sun, and 
 soil not too heavy. Three or four plants 4 inches 
 
 [51] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^^ 
 
 COLOR HEIGHT 
 
 apart to make a clump in small bed. Use plentifully, 
 especially the white variety. Blooms all summer. 
 
 Blue Anchusa Italica, vars. Dropmore and Opal: Sea June 
 Bugloss. The Opal is the lightest blue and most 
 beautiful of all. Plant in groups of two or three plants 
 8 inches apart. Self-sown seedlings may be removed 
 to nursery to develop and returned to garden two 
 years later. Succeeds in sun, any rich loam. Part of 
 its coarse lower foliage may be removed when crowd- 
 ing other plants. It is best to move it in spring. 
 
 -^Yiiite Anemone Japonica : Japanese Windflower. Single, Sept. 
 Pink waxlike plants. Var. Whirlwind is semidouble and 
 larger; also other varieties. Thrives in any rich soil, 
 not too heavy. Increases by root and grows in same 
 position for years if liberally fed. In cold climate 
 needs a winter covering of 3 inches. Use at least six 
 small plants to make a clump. Transplant only in 
 spring. 
 
 Yellow Anthemis tinctoria, var. Kelwayi : Yellow Mar- July 1 
 Creamy guerite; var. alba (catalogue), cream- white. Bushy 
 plant. Grows in any soil. Seeds self-sown in abun- 
 dance. Sun or partial shade. Rarely requires winter 
 covering. Self-sown seedlings found in September 
 make good plants next season. Treat as a hardy 
 annual; sow in August or September, and discard 
 after first season's bloom. Stake when a foot high. 
 
 [52] 
 
PERENNIALS 
 
 COLOR HEIGHT 
 
 Aquilegia. See Columbine. 
 
 White ** Ab,abis alpina: Rock Cress. A rock plant; forms AprU-May 
 a mat. Better use it in separate spring garden. Sun 
 or semishade. Prop, by seed, preferably by cuttings 
 or division. Rapid spreader. Twelve small plants to 
 make a clump or mat 1 foot square. 
 
 Blue Aster Novoe Anglice: New England Aster, Mich- Aug.-Sept. 
 
 ^^ aelmas Daisy, or Starwort. Choose varieties bloom- 
 Purple ing late August to September and 4 feet and over. 
 Use plenty of White Queen and richest shades of blue, 
 purple, and pink. Among the best are Novoe Angliw, 
 purple; Mrs. F. W. Raynor, purple; Novw Anglim rosm, 
 also rubra; William Bowman rose; Lil Fardell, rose. 
 In ordering from a nursery, one plant is so small that 
 six at least should be ordered to make one clump, 
 planted about 3 inches apart. Thrives in any soil; 
 spreads rapidly by root. Needs staking early. Prop, 
 by seed or division. 
 
 Bachelor's-Button. See Ranunculus. 
 
 Bellflower, Japanese. See Platycodon. 
 
 Blanket-Flower. See Gaillardia. 
 
 Bluebells. See Mertensia. 
 
 White Campanula medium, also C. calycanthema : Canter- June 15 
 p^ bury Bell. Biennial. Single and double. Thrives in 2~3"' 
 rich soil. Var. calycanthema is cup-and-saucer type. 
 
 [53] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^^ 
 
 COLOR HEIGHT 
 
 Sow May to bloom June of next year only, for three 
 weeks. Plant them generously over the garden. 
 
 yyjjijg Campanula persicifolia: Peach Bell. Tufted foli- June l 
 Blue age at base of long stems. Plant rather close to- 
 gether, four to six in a group, and use freely. Increases 
 by root. Prop, by seed or root. Needs sun and light 
 soil. 
 
 Campion, Rose. See Agrostemma coronaria. 
 
 White ** Candytuft: Iberis sempervirens. Evergreen foli- May 15 
 age. Six small plants 4 inches apart to make a clump ™" 
 or mat. Rapid spreader. 
 
 p,\,ir Canna. The new white, also pink Cannas should July-Sept. 
 
 . A—f\ ft 
 
 White be used moderately in a large garden. Nothing is 
 more effective. Place at ends of broad, long bed, 
 near centre line. 
 
 Canterbury Bells. See Campanula medium. 
 
 Pink Chrysanthemum, var. Aster or large-flowering Pom- Sept. 15 
 White pon. For the garden of continuous bloom choose only 
 Yellow those blooming by mid-September. Certain nurseries 
 offer these large-flowered earlier bloomers in beautiful 
 shades of rose, yellow, and white. Dislike very heavy 
 soil. In some cold gardens they do not winter well, 
 in which case give them cold-frame protection, and 
 move with roots well "balled." Always give light 
 covering, hay preferably; they will not stand heavy 
 covering. Most of the hardy Chrysanthemums, when 
 
 [54] 
 
PERENNIALS 
 
 COLOB _ _ _ HEIGHT 
 
 growing close to a south wall, and occasionally lifted 
 for renourishment of the soil, will generally live for 
 years, at least in New Jersey and southward. To 
 make a good clump, set three small plants (shoots) 
 8 inches apart. When a foot high, pinch back to in- 
 duce branching. Tobacco dust is the best treatment 
 when black aphids attack them. Prop, by division or 
 cuttings. 
 
 Chrysanthemum coccineum . See Pyrethrum, hybrid. 
 
 * Chrysanthemum uliginosum. See Pyrethrum uli- 
 ginosum. 
 
 Chrysanthemum max. See Shasta Daisy. 
 
 White Columbine: Aquilegia. Use the taller varieties. May-June 
 Blue Prefers Ught rich, deep, well-drained soil, and thrives *~^ ^*- 
 Pink in sun or partial shade. When allowed to self-sow, 
 the seedlings are abundant. Keep plenty of the 
 strongest of these young plants in best colors for nurs- 
 ery stock, as Columbine is not long-lived. Some gar- 
 deners prefer to use more Lupins and hybrid Pyre- 
 thrum than Columbine, because the latter is less ef- 
 fective in the garden color scheme. Prevent large 
 annuals from smothering the Columbine. Don't plant 
 it in garden-bed until two years old. "To have the 
 most vigorous and beautiful plants the two varieties 
 — mixed Longspurs and var. vulgaris — should grow near 
 together: then select the strongest of the seedlings 
 
 [55] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 MONTH 
 HEIGHT 
 
 found about them, discarding all inferior plants and 
 colors. The white vulgaris parent will always have 
 white seedlings, no matter what form or color the 
 other parent." If they are to be transplanted in 
 early spring keep plenty of earth about the root. 
 Fall planting of Columbine is preferable. 
 
 CoNEFLOWER. See Rudbeckia purpurea. 
 
 CoNOCLiNUM ccelestinum. See Eupatorium cwlestinum. 
 
 Yellow Coreopsis lanceolata, var. grandiflora: Tickseed. June-Oct. 
 Very hardy and increases rapidly by root and by ^^ 
 self-sowing. Likes almost any good soil not too lieavy. 
 Cut fading flowers and it will bloom till frost. Keep 
 it in front of plants the height of Zinnia. 
 
 Various Dahija: Plant but one or two tubers. Hollow July-Oct. 
 ground around stalk to hold water, water frequently. 
 Plant after mid-May 3 feet apart. 
 
 Daisy, Giant. See Pyrethrum uliginosum. 
 
 Daisy, Shasta. See Shasta Daisy. 
 
 Blue Delphinium Chinense: Chinese Larkspur. Light and June- 
 ^^'^^ dark blue, also white. Fine feathery foliage. If sown f^^- *<* 
 in May or June will make strong plants the following 
 year. Blossoms three times during summer. Plant 
 near front of bed. Feed once during summer to help 
 later blooms. Sun and rich soil. 
 
 Blue Delphinium eZaium: Bee Larkspur, hardy Larkspur, June- 
 tallest variety. S^eV" 
 
 [56] 
 
PERENNIALS „.,^,^ 
 
 ;OLOB HEIGHT 
 
 Delphinium, Hybrid. Lovely shades of blue. 
 
 Blue Delphinium formosum, var. cwlestinum, also bella- 4 ft. 
 donna: Oriental Larkspur. Deep to light blue, not so 
 tall. Also new white variety. 
 
 White Delphinium grandiflorum, var. album, 2 to 3 feet. *-3 ft. 
 Delphiniums need well-drained, rich soil, not too 
 clayey. Keep manure from contact with roots and 
 sprinkle coal ashes around base of stalk in November 
 to protect it from insect enemies. Plant in garden 
 in second year. Cut back to ground each fading 
 flower-stalk and apply liquid sheep's manure in mid- 
 summer to insure strength for later blooms. If the 
 large Delphiniums are allowed to flower three times 
 during the season without ample nourishment to sustain 
 vigor, they may die out that fall. When plant begins 
 to deteriorate, divide it as early as possible in spring. 
 
 DiCTAMNUS. See Gas Plant. 
 
 Digitalis. See Foxglove. 
 
 Dusty Miller. See Agrostemma. 
 
 Blue * Echinops sphoerocephalus : Round Head Globe July, early 
 Thistle. Tallest variety, two or three small plants ^ 
 together. Use only in large garden for additional 
 variety. Prop, by dividing. 
 
 gj * Eryngium amethystium : Sea Holly. Three small July 
 
 plants, 6 inches apart, to make a clump. Use it only 
 in large beds. 
 
 [57] 
 
2 ft. 
 
 CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^ntk 
 
 COLOR _ _ _ HEIIQHT 
 
 Blue ExjPATORiuM coelesHnum {Conoclinum ccelestinum) : Sept. 1 
 Mistflower. Flower resembles the Ageratum. Plant ^-^ *'-• 
 remains dormant for some time after all others appear 
 in the spring, when it is diflBcult to detect life in roots 
 and for this reason it is often discarded for dead. 
 Keep permanent stake above it. Spreads rapidly by 
 root and is long-lived. Protect slightly in winter. 
 Six to ten plants to a clump. Prop, by cuttings and 
 suckers. 
 
 Evening Primrose. See (Enothera. 
 
 False Dragon's-Head. See Physostegia. 
 
 Wjiite Feverfew, Double Camomile: Matricaria. Use June-Sept, 
 double white variety only. Sows itself freely and 
 these seedlings are hardy and transplantable at any 
 time, sun or semi-shade. Bushy plant. Cut back 
 fading flowers to force later moderate bloom. It is 
 classed with hardy perennials, but not to be depended 
 upon for second-year bloom. Better treat it as a 
 hardy annual and sow in fall to bloom late June. For 
 best August to September blossom, sow seeds again 
 in spring instead of relying on the later blooms of the 
 older fall-sown plant which will have made its best 
 showing in June and July. 
 
 Blue Forget-me-not: Myosotis palustris, var. semper- May-June 
 florens. Sow August for bloom the next year. After 
 a summer's bloom lift the old plants and replace them, 
 after renourishing soil, with the numerous seedlings to 
 
 [58] 
 
 10 in. 
 
PERENNIALS 
 
 MONTH 
 HEIGHT 
 
 be found in the vicinity. This suggestion is made in 
 connection with the plants forming an edging to a bed 
 which must be kept neat and straight. 
 
 'Pink Foxglove: Digitalis, hybrid. White and pink pre- June 
 White fej-retj ^^y j-jch soil. Sun or partial shade. Keep in ^~^ **' 
 nursery the plants less than 6 inches in diameter. The 
 self-sown plant is the hardiest. In a severe climate 
 winter in cold-frame. Will not tolerate heavy winter 
 covering over the top. Be prepared to replace it after 
 its third year. If not allowed to go to seed side shoots 
 will appear for next year. Cut fading flowers for a 
 second bloom. Prop, by seed. 
 
 Fbaxinella. See Gas Plant. 
 
 Yellow Gaillaedia grandiflora: Blanket-Flower. Easily june-Oct. 
 with grown, but sometimes winter-killed. Give heavy 2 ft. 
 Red covering. Set six plants 4 to 5 inches apart, to form 
 disk one group. Grows in any soil, in sun. Keep stock 
 in nursery. 
 
 Garden Heliotrope. See Valerian. 
 
 Yfhite ^^^ Plant: Didamnus fraxinella. Use more of -^ ^^^^ 
 Pink the white variety. One of the most desirable of May's 3-4 ft. 
 hardy plants. Give rich, deep soil and sun. May 
 outlive two or three generations if left undisturbed. 
 Leaves and flowers have peculiar pungent odor when 
 crushed. Use one plant in small space. In a large bed 
 two or three plants 1 foot apart. Slow growing. Does 
 
 [59] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „_, 
 
 COLOR ^ HBIQST 
 
 not blossom well until second or third year after plant- 
 ing. Improves with age, and when well-developed 
 forms a large bushy plant full of bloom. When there 
 are a sufficient number of strong Gas Plants in the 
 garden fewer Lupins will be needed. The latter are 
 beautiful, but the plants are comparatively short- 
 lived, requiring to be oftener replaced. 
 
 White *Gypsophiia paniculata: Baby's Breath. Bushy. July 
 Place next to a spreading plant so that after its bloom 
 the space may be partly covered. A line of Eupa- 
 torium ccelestinum encircling it, not too close, conceals 
 well the empty space, when Gypsophila dies down. 
 
 Yellow *Helenium: Sneezeweed, var. Riverton Gem. Gold Aug. late 
 tinged with reddish streaks. Var. Riverton Beauty, 
 yellow with dark cone. Use six or seven nursery plants, 
 set close together for one group. Stake early. 
 
 Yellow * Hemerocallis, var. flava: Sweet-scented Lemon May-June 
 Lily. Needs deep, light, rich soil. Spreads rapidly. *■■ 
 Six plants to start a group. 
 
 Hesperis matronalis: See Rocket. 
 
 White Hollyhock: Althea rosea. Single or double, as July 
 
 Red preferred. Needs deep, rich soil and sun. Transplant *' 
 
 Yellow in spring only. Give treatment of Bordeaux Mixture 
 
 early if brown spots appear. Needs heavy winter 
 
 covering where climate is severe. Requires staking. 
 
 Cut stalks down to ground when finished blooming. 
 
 [60] 
 
PERENNIALS 
 
 COLOR _ ^ _ _ HEttGHT 
 
 When lifting it dig deep for long tap-roots. Self-sown 
 plants that have not been disturbed make the finest 
 specimens. 
 
 Iberis sempervirens. See Hardy Candytuft. 
 
 Various Iris Germanica: Fleur-de-lis. Six small plants to May 20 
 
 2 ft 
 start a clump. Enrich bed with layers of manure, 
 
 avoiding contact of roots with manure. When it must 
 
 be moved, July or August is the best time, in order 
 
 to insure good bloom the next year. However, 
 
 crowded beds may prevent transplanting until after 
 
 frost. Prop, by division. 
 
 Various Iris, JAPANESE: /m XflEmp/m. Use six small plants July 1 
 to start a clump. Water freely. Enrich well, but 
 keep manure from contact with roots of all Irises. 
 Occasionally needs lifting and dividing. Starting 
 plants from seeds is not advisable, as it takes so long. 
 
 Larkspur, Hardy. See Delphinium. 
 
 Pink * LiATRis, var. pycnostachya : Blazing Star. Purplish July 
 pink spikes. This plant is not always popular on ac- ^ "• 
 count of its peculiar tone of pink. 
 
 White * LiLixjM auratum: Gold-banded or Japan Lily. July, i«te 
 
 Gold White with gold bands and purplish spots. The finest * ^*- 
 
 of the lilies, but lives only about three years. May be 
 
 planted in spring or late fall. Prop, by offsets or scales. 
 
 Plant in sand with base of bulb 8 inches below surface. 
 
 [61] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^ 
 
 COLOK _ ... HEIGHT 
 
 White LiLiuM candidum : Madonna Lily, Annunciation June, late 
 Lily. Should be planted between August 1 and *~^ ^** 
 September 1, preferably August 1. Will multiply in 
 rich, deep, well-drained soil. Cannot survive much 
 shading from surrounding plants. Often does its best 
 in rooty soil. Set this bulb with only 2 inches of soil 
 above its crown. Surround bulb with thin layer of 
 sand. 
 
 Pink and * LiLitJM s'peciosum, vars. ruhrum and Melpomene. August 
 White Like Lilium candidum will increase in congenial soil. ^~* "• 
 May be planted in late fall or spring. Surround all 
 Lily bulbs with J^ inch of sand. Put manure 2J/^ inches 
 beneath bulb. Keep manure from near contact with 
 bulbs. Set Lilium speciosum same depth as L. auratum. 
 The above-named Lilies are the most popular of the 
 many listed in the catalogues. 
 
 *LiLY, Lemon. See Hemerocallis. 
 
 White LupiNUS polyphyllus, var. Moerheimi. Appears ten June 
 P™^ days later than the other variety. In congenial soil ^"^ ^** 
 both Lupins will give a second bloom, soon after the 
 first flowers are cut off. Same habit as the following. 
 
 Bjyg LupiNTJS polyphyllus : Lupin, pea-shaped flower. May-June 
 White Not long-lived. Keep stock in nursery. After the ^'^ ^*- 
 third or fourth year it is apt to disappear. Needs 
 6 inches of winter covering in cold climate, and re- 
 move two-thirds of this covering in late March. It 
 does its best in rich, rather heavy soil, semi-shade, 
 
 [62] 
 
PERENNIALS 
 
 COIOR _ HEIGHT 
 
 and above all it must not be allowed to dry out — 
 more dependent on moisture than any other hardy. 
 Sows itself freely. Is killed by lime and Bordeaux 
 Mixture. In a warm, dry climate, and in a sunny 
 position, if possible, give it the shade protection of 
 larger plants. Of all the bloom of this period there 
 is nothing more strikingly beautiful than the Lupin. 
 In some gardens it makes a fair bloom a year from 
 the time sown. But sometimes it is not fully grown 
 until the second year after sowing, depending on the 
 treatment. Good soil and sufficient moisture hasten 
 development. 
 
 ■^^rjijte * Lychnis Chalcedonica, var. alba : Maltese Cross. June, late 
 Where tall, white bloom is needed, this plant for 
 variety is eflfective in groups of six or eight plants 
 closely set. Thrives in any sunny position. The red 
 variety is of a tone that clashes with many colors of 
 that period and had better be avoided. Prop, by seed 
 or division in spring. 
 
 Maltese Cross. See Lychnis Chalcedonica. 
 
 Maegueeite, Yellow. See Anthemis. 
 
 Matricaria. See Feverfew. 
 
 Meadow-Sage. See Salvia pratensis. 
 Blue ** Mertensia: Blue Bells. An exquisite sky-blue May 1 
 flower tinted pink. Gives plants a heavy marker as ^^ "*• 
 foliage drops off in June. Set plants 6 inches apart, 
 in line or group. 
 
 [63] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 Michaelmas Daisy. See Aster. 
 
 MONTH 
 HEIGHT 
 
 MisTFLOWER. See Ewpatorium coelestinum. July- Aug. 
 
 Blue Monkshood: Aconite, Aconitum, vars. Stork's, au- 
 tumnale, napellus. These are the earlier deep blue 
 varieties and follow Delphiniums' first bloom. 
 
 Blue Group six small plants to form a clump. Sun or 
 part shade. Prop, by division. 
 
 Monkshood: Aconite, Aconitum Wilsoni. The best Sept.. middle 
 variety for September. Grows in sun or shade. Self- 
 sows freely. This deep violet-blue September peren- 
 nial helps to enliven the mid-September garden when 
 other flowers begin to look a trifle rusty. It follows 
 immediately after hardy Aster, which bloom is gener- 
 ally over by September 7 (near New York). For 
 black blight use Bordeaux Mixture freely around 
 crown, and spray leaves and buds when stalks begin 
 to turn yellow before or at blooming time. Often 
 dies out after five years. Use six small plants for 
 a full clump. Prop, by division or seed. 
 
 Mullein Pink. See Agrostemma. 
 
 Myosotis palustris, var. semperflorens. See Forget- 
 me-not. 
 
 Obedience. See Physostegia. 
 
 Lemon OENOTHERA, var. Youngi : Evening Primrose, Sun- June I 
 
 Ydlow drops. Thrives in sun or partial shade. Light, rich ^^ "*• 
 
 soil. The white varieties, 0. ccespitosa (10 inches) 
 
 [64] 
 
PERENNIALS 
 
 COLOR HEIGHT 
 
 and 0. speciosa (15 inches), are especially desirable 
 for beds in semi-shade. Use four small plants to 
 make one group. 
 
 Various * P^onia: Peony. Double, semidouble, and single. June 
 Whenever it must be moved, August is the best time 
 to transplant in order to insure some bloom the next 
 season, but this course is impossible if beds are full 
 of bloom in August. Use only in very large beds. 
 After roses, no plant requires such deep, rich soil. 
 Roots go deep. The finest Peonies grow in beds where 
 the soil is prepared to the depth of 3 feet, with two 
 or three layers of manure running through it. Eight 
 inches of heavy clay at the bottom helps to retain 
 moisture. Sun or half-shade. 
 
 Peach Bells. See Campanula persicifolia. 
 
 Blue ** Phi^x divaricata. Exquisite shade sky-blue. Set jyj^y, early 
 twelve to fifteen small plants 3 inches apart to form a 10 in. 
 clump measuring 1 square foot. Spreads rapidlj'. 
 Combines well with early pink or light-yellow Tulips. 
 The Laphami var. is taller and later. 
 
 ^Yjjj^g Phlox, var. Miss Lingard. It takes three or four jy^g g^^jj 
 shoots to make a fair clump. The next year it will '^ter 
 have doubled its size. In sunshine and rich soil with 
 some moisture, if fading flowers are removed, it will 
 have several blooming periods during the summer. 
 Also blooms in semi-shade, as do all Phloxes. 
 
 [65] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^ 
 
 COLOR _ _ HEIGHT 
 
 Various Phlox patiiculata. The well-known, late-blooming July, late 
 variety. Not as frequent a bloomer as Miss Lingard. 
 Allow about twelve stalks to a clump. Lift plant to 
 enrich soil every three years in the fall. Cut oflf 
 fading flowers to bring second bloom. The richer the 
 soil, the better the bloom. Don't let it suffer from 
 drought. 
 
 Pink * Phtsostegia Virginica : False Dragon's-Head, Aug., late 
 ^^'*^ Obedience. Two shades of pink, also white. Tu- ^^ **■ 
 bular flowers massed at the top of a spike which is 
 4 to 5 feet tall. The blossom suggests a little orchid. 
 Roots spread rapidly. A lovely flower for picking, 
 but it is not altogether desirable for a full garden 
 because of its spreading habit and its weak tone of 
 pink. The brilliant pink perennial Asters blooming at 
 the same time are preferable if color effect is the aim 
 of the gardener. This plant grows best in rich, light 
 soil and sun. Use only in a garden where there is 
 ample space to spare. Prop, by division in spring. 
 
 Blue Platycodon: Balloon Flower, Japanese Bellflower. July 
 ^ Rich blue, also white, and white mixed with lavender. 
 The roots run deep and the soil needs to be deep and 
 rich and not too heavy. Slight winter protection is 
 required. Heavily covered with blossoms for three 
 weeks. Needs staking. Prop, in spring by seed or 
 division. In planting, don't bend long roots, but let 
 them go straight down. 
 
 [66] 
 
PERENNIALS 
 
 COIX)R _ HEIGHT 
 
 Pink Poppy, Oriental: Papaver orientate. After the May, late 
 ^^ second year it sends up numerous strong flowers. 
 Avoid using the old vermilion-red. If the rich deep 
 blood-red variety cannot be obtained, don't have red at 
 all. Order the lovely pink variety, of which there is 
 now an abundance in some nurseries. Don't depend 
 on starting it from seed, as the color results are too un- 
 certain. After blooming, the foliage dies to the ground, 
 reappearing in a small growth in September. The 
 tap-root goes deep and the soil should be rich deep 
 loam. Requires sun. Best transplanted in July, if 
 possible, when moving is necessary. With very small 
 plants, set four together. 
 
 Primrose, Evening. See (Enothera. 
 
 Various ** PRIMROSE, SPRING. Primula. Great variety. Use April-May 
 for separate spring garden. 
 
 Pink Ptrethrum, Hybrid : Chrysanthemum cocdneum. May, late 
 f?^ff Single and double; white and several shades of red 
 and of pink. Many prefer the single variety especially 
 because the flowers are not as heavy and therefore 
 more apt to keep an erect position without staking. 
 There is nothing more welcome in the early garden 
 than a quantity of these daisy-like flowers which, in 
 good soil, sun, and with occasional generous watering 
 and cutting of fading bloom, will remain in blossom 
 nearly a month. Easily raised from seed, it sows 
 itself freely. Don't set plants in garden until their 
 
 [67] 
 
 White 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 MONTH 
 HEIGHT 
 
 third year, as bloom of young plants is unsatisfactory 
 and they had better be in the full sunshine of the 
 nursery with nothing to prevent development. Guard 
 against the smothering of the Pyrethrum by large an- 
 nuals. If bloom must be had from young plants, 
 group three or four close together to make one plant. 
 They are prop, by division, as well as by seed. 
 
 White *Pyrethrum uliginosum (Chrysanthemum uligino- Aug., late 
 sum) : Giant Daisy. Rapid spreader in rich light soil 
 and sun. Resembles a large Daisy. Twelve plants to 
 a clump. Prop, by division or seed, or by suckers. 
 
 Yellow * Ranunculus acris, var. flore pleno : The real Bach- May, late 
 elor's-Button. Keep spreading roots cut back to a 
 limited square, possibly in a clump 2 by 2 feet. Oc- 
 casionally change position or renew soil. Use only in a 
 large bed as it is a rapid spreader. Set out in groups 
 of eighteen plants. 
 
 Rock Cress. See Arabis. 
 
 White Rocket Sweet: Hesperismaironalis. Sweet-scented, June 1 
 resembles Phlox, rapid spreader. White variety pref- 
 erable. 
 
 Rose Campion. See Agrostemma. 
 
 Pink RuDBECKiA purpurea (Echinacea purpurea): Cone- July, middle 
 flower. This large, deep-pink flower with its heavy 
 foliage is effective and worth planting where there is 
 room for it. Especially as at this season there are few 
 
 [68] 
 
PERENNIALS "o''™ 
 
 HEIGHT 
 ILOB 
 
 tall perennials in bloom. To form one plant, set three 
 small plants 8 inches apart. Prop, by seed or division. 
 Needs good soil and sun. May bloom six weeks. 
 
 Sage. See Salvias. 
 
 Blue Salvia azurea, and S. Pitcheri : Pitcher's Sage. Sept. 1 
 Grows in rich deep soil and sun. The former is sky-blue. 
 The latter deeper blue. Set four nursery plants 5 
 inches apart to make a clump. Black roots have the 
 appearance of being dead and do not sprout till late 
 spring, so the plant is ever in danger of being discarded 
 by the heedless digger. Keep permanent marker over 
 it. Stake early, as its stalk is slim and inclined to bend. 
 This lovely flower is not used enough. It looks well 
 with hardy Asters. 
 
 Blue Salvia pratensis : Meadow-Sage. The deep-blue May, late 
 spikes are 3 feet high when plant is established in its 
 third year. Strong pungent odor when handled. 
 Shows well next to white Gas Plant or White Pyreth- 
 rum. Sows itself freely. Keep a small stock on hand in 
 nursery. Needs rich loamy soil, sun or partial shade. 
 Set three small plants 6 inches apart. 
 
 * Santolina incana : Lavender Cotton. Silvery June-Oct. 
 green, evergreen foliage. Bushy. One foot diameter. ^ "• 
 Four small plants to start a clump. It needs to be 
 kept pinched back into a shapely form. 
 
 Sea Bugloss. See Anchusa. 
 [69] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^ 
 
 COLOK _ HEIGHT 
 
 Pink *Sedvu spectabile: Showy Stonecrop. Broad, light- Aug., late 
 green, leathery foliage. Large, flat-headed flowers. ^^ ™- 
 Increases by root. Leave undisturbed for some years. 
 Plants are bushy and take up some space, but a few 
 are desirable for the August garden. Avoid the palest 
 pink variety. Propagate by division. Set two or 
 three nursery plants together to form one plant. 
 
 White Shasta Daisy: Chrysanthemum, vars. maximum, July-Sept 
 Alaska, and King Edward VII. Often bear flowers 
 standing 23^ feet high. Increases by root in congenial 
 soil. At this season few plants are more effective, 
 and later it blooms intermittently till mid-September. 
 Prop, by seeds, division, or suckers. Place three or 
 four small plants near together to make one good-sized 
 plant. 
 
 Sneezeweed. See Helenium. 
 
 Sneezewokt. See Achillea, Pearl. 
 
 Starwokt. See Aster. 
 
 Blue *Statice latifolia: Broad-leaved Sea-Lavender. July, late 
 
 Bloom suggests Gypsophila except in color. Set one 
 plant by itself. Don't disturb it. Bloom strong only 
 after being established two years. Bushy when in 
 bloom. 
 
 Stonecrop. See Sedum. 
 
 Sweet Rocket. See Rocket. 
 [701 
 
 2 ft. 
 
PERENNIALS 
 
 ^°">^ _ „, HEIGHT 
 
 Pink Sweet William, London Tufts: Dianthus barbatus. June, early 
 jjgj Use var. Newport pink, deep rose, also the light pink, . i* ™- 
 white, and crimson varieties. Avoid mixed colored 
 flowers. It is well to plant the white variety some- 
 times next to pink or crimson. The plant is not long- 
 lived, but is freely self-sown and a supply in the nurs- 
 ery is always necessary. It thrives best in sun and 
 in a rich soil that is not too heavy. In clay soil or 
 in prolonged dampness it sometimes "damps off." 
 Should have thick winter covering of leaves or hay 
 and some coarse manure about the base of stalks, 
 leaving tops exposed. 
 
 Thistle, Globe. See Echinops. 
 
 TiCKSEED. See Coreopsis. 
 
 White Valerian officinalis: Garden Heliotrope. This is May 
 the old-fashioned variety. Use a few clumps, for its * 
 delicate beauty as well as for the sake of the fra- 
 grance. Cats sometimes seek it and destroy it by lying 
 in the low foliage. Subject to beetle pest. Use twelve 
 plants to make a clump. Prop, by seed or division. 
 Any good soil. 
 Blue * Veronica longifolia, var, subsessile: Speedwell, juiy 
 long-leaved Veronica. Blue spikes are 3 feet tall, ^ ^*- 
 when well established in rich soil and not allowed to 
 dry out. It is the showiest of the Veronicas. In a 
 cold climate, early spring is the safest time to move 
 it. Rich loam and sun. Prop, by division. Use three 
 
 [ 71 ] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^^^ 
 
 COLOB HBIGHf 
 
 or four small plants close together to make one good 
 plant. 
 
 ** Viola cornuta : Horned Violet. Use only where ]kj _o f 
 Yellow considerable moisture is possible and a shady position. 8 in. 
 * Any good soil. Prop, by seed and division. Increases 
 rapidly by root; clumps should be separated annually. 
 
 WiNDFLOWER. See Anemone Japonica. 
 
 [72] 
 
coixm 
 
 Chaptek VIII 
 WHAT TO PLANT— ANNUALS 
 
 Single star indicates desirable though shorter-lived annuals not named in 
 charts at end of the volume. 
 
 MONTH 
 
 MOST OF THESE ANNUALS BLOOM TILL FROST height 
 
 Blue Ageratum conyozoides : Floss Flower. Half-hardy June-Oct. 
 ^^•t^ annual. Use the compact, large-flowered variety, 
 "Perfection," for a neat edge; there are other taller 
 varieties for a looser edging. Set 8 to 12 inches apart. 
 Start under glass not later than mid-March for June 
 bloom. Will grow in partial shade, but does better 
 in sun. Blooms abundantly till frost. 
 
 -WHite Alysstjm, Sweet, Madwort: Alyssum maritimum. June-Oct. 
 Hardy annual. Variety "Little Gem" makes a lovely 
 compact edging 6 inches high. A newer and dwarfer 
 kind is A. compadum procumbens, useful when a very 
 narrow dwarf edging is required. In August cut back 
 Sweet Alyssum about half-way in order to have a 
 vigorous bloom until frost. Sow in April or May. It 
 will bloom five or six weeks after sowing and flower 
 continuously till frost. Grows anywhere, preferably 
 in light soil and sun. 
 
 Anthemis. See Perennial list, but treat as hardy 
 annual. 
 
 [ 73 ] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^ 
 
 COLOR HEIGHT 
 
 Antirbhinum. See Snapdragon. 
 
 White * Aster, China Aster : Callistephus hortensis Chi- Aug. 
 Pink nensis. Tender annual. The many varieties make se- 
 
 Purple lection diflScult. The branching Peony-flowered of 
 August and the late branching Aster for early Septem- 
 ber are among the most popular. Require sun and 
 rich, light soU. Late in July, to prevent approach of 
 beetle (if subject to it), spread ashes over soil at base 
 of plants. If black beetles attack them, pick them off 
 by hand, drop into kerosene water, and make sure they 
 are dead. To begin with, it is well to grow samples 
 of a dozen of each variety of Aster in the nursery or 
 picking garden, and in this way decide upon favorites. 
 Start under glass by April 1, or in garden in mid-May. 
 They remain in bloom about three weeks. Enricb 
 with wood-ashes, or sheep manure. When subject 
 to blight, sweeten soil with air-slaked lime some 
 weeks before planting, and use tobacco dust near 
 roots. 
 
 Pink * Balsam, Lady Slipper: Impatiens balsamina. Aug.-Sept. 
 Yellow Tender annual. Rich soil and sun and moisture. 
 If started under glass, set out plants 1 foot apart. 
 It may also be sown in garden after danger of frost 
 is over to bloom two months later. Sometimes con- 
 venient to start it late in flats, and have it ready 
 to replace Canterbury Bells, or other annuals that 
 die about July 1. Transplanting twice dwarfs plants 
 
 [74] 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 COLOB ^ HEIGHT 
 
 into better shape, and pinching out weaker branches 
 produces finer plants, if specimen plants are desired. 
 Pink Begonia semperflorens, var. gracilis: Elephant's- j ft_ 
 Ear, fibrous-rooted. Tender annual. Light rose 
 variety. Propagate by seed, or cuttings, the latter 
 method preferable. Grows in rich light soil. Should 
 not be allowed to get too dry. Very effective grouped 
 inside of broad band of Sweet Alyssum. Blooms in 
 sun or partial shade. 
 
 Various * Begonia, var. tuberous-rooted. Grows best in semi- 1 ft. 
 shade. Lift it just before frost and dry tubers. Winter 
 this variety in sand in moderate temperature, cellar 
 or elsewhere. 
 
 Bellis perennis. See Daisy, English. 
 
 Bluets. See Centaurea cyanus. 
 
 Blue * Bbachycome ifteridifoKa; Swan River Daisy. Half June-Aug. 
 hardy. Set these little plants 6 inches apart in a line ^ "*■ 
 directly behind Sweet Alyssum, when blue is required. 
 It sends out drooping sprays of flowers which mix 
 attractively with Alyssum. Sow in frame April 1 or 
 outdoors. Pinch back once or twice to keep compact. 
 
 Yellow Calendula o^cmaZis; Pot Marigold. Hardy annual. june-Oct. 
 Qy^ Avoid the orange shade, unless it is to be used in a ^^ ""• 
 yellow bed. Varieties sulphur yellow and the white 
 Pluvilis are favorites. Grow quickly from seed in 
 any light soil and sun, and are continuous bloomers. 
 Set plants 6 inches apart. Self-sow freely. 
 
 [75] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „^^^ 
 
 COIOR _ _ HEIGHT 
 
 Yellow Calliopsis, Coreopsis: TIckseed, var. Crown of june-Oct. 
 Gold. Flower resembles the perennial Coreopsi?. ^ ^^■ 
 Also variety Drummondii, or Golden Wave, which is 
 quite similar to the foregoing but has a small brown 
 centre. Newer than the old taller yellow and garnet 
 varieties and have a longer bloom, if fading flowers 
 are cut off. Sow a close double row to make a bril- 
 liant edging, or else use it just behind Sweet Alyssum. 
 It is hardy and will bloom till frost if flowers are not 
 allowed to seed. Sow where they are to grow, and 
 thin out, but when very young they are transplantable. 
 
 White Candytuft: Iberis umbellata. Hardy annual. If June 
 a long bloom is desired, make successive sowings; the 
 first, soon after April 1, to bloom June 1; sow again 
 May 1 to bloom July 1 for three weeks. Two rows of 
 successive sowings may thus grow behind some later 
 and long-blooming annual that edges a bed; for in- 
 stance, behind Nasturtium. By the time the Candy- 
 tuft bloom has passed the Nasturtium will begin to 
 flower. The massive pyramid or spiral Candytuft 
 has a longer bloom than the others. 
 
 Blue Canterbury Bell: Campanula medium; also C. June 
 ^'*f calycanthema, biennials. The latter is the cup-and- 
 saucer kind. They thrive best in rich soil and moisture. 
 Staking is necessary when weighted with bloom. Cut 
 off faded flowers and another lesser bloom wUl follow. 
 Discard plants as soon as bloom is over. Sow seeds in 
 
 [76] 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 COLOR HEIGHT 
 
 May, transplant in June to 6 inches apart in nursery. 
 In September place 10 inches apart in cold-frame, it the 
 climate demands the glass or slat covering in winter. 
 Give air to glass frame in warm winter days. Place 
 plants in the garden in early spring. In a mild climate 
 transplant to the garden in September or October 
 and cover lightly. They die under heavy cover. 
 
 Celosia. See Cockscomb. 
 
 Blue Centaubea cyanus: Bluet, Corn Flower, Ragged May-June 
 ^^jj* Sailor, Kaiser Blumen. Hardy annual. Use the tall ^^ ^*- 
 varieties. Bloom for two months if not allowed to 
 seed. A mass of these plants close-set makes an effec- 
 tive group, especially when surrounded with two close 
 lines of Silene armeria. It is best to sow them in 
 August or early September for May and June bloom, 
 so that later their space may be filled with some spring- 
 sown plants like tall Cockscomb. Sun and almost any 
 soil suit them. Watering and cutting prolong bloom. 
 
 Rose * Centaurea moschata, var. imperialis : Sweet Sul- June 
 Lilac tan. A large thistle-like, sweet-scented flower. Thrives ^^ "•• 
 BuflF best in cool, moist climate. Not so hardy as Corn 
 Flower. 
 
 lYljjtg * Chrysanthemum, vars. coronarium and Burrid- July-Oct. 
 Colored gianum : Painted Daisy. Tricolored. Tender annual. ^^ ^*- 
 '""^^ Best to sow where it is to grow and thin out. When 
 6 inches high pinch back to make bushy. Frequent 
 cutting prolongs bloom. 
 
 f 77] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „„^^g 
 
 COLOR _ ^ HEIGHT 
 
 White *CHRYSANTHEMUM/rM<escen5,var. Marguerite: Paris June-July 
 Daisy. Tender annual. Generally grown from cut- ^^ ^*' 
 tings. Buy the young plants in May so that the 
 best bloom will come the last of June. Plant out 
 May 15. 
 
 Pink *Clarkia elegans. Half hardy. Double. Sun or July 
 semi-shade. Use in a large garden when great variety ^ 
 is required. Set plants 5 inches apart. 
 
 White Cleome pungens: Giant Spider Flower. Tender July 
 ^""^ annual. The white variety is especially effective. 
 A tall, slim plant with large head, occupying as a single 
 plant but little room. 
 
 Crimson CocKSCOMB, FEATHERED: Cclosia flumosa. Vars. Aug.-Oct 
 Yellow Thompson, viagnifica, and Superb, are taller than ^~* 
 the Castle Gould variety. Tender annual. Use the 
 latter near front of bed. Cockscombs grow in any 
 good soil, not too heavy, sun or partial shade. Sown 
 in open ground, seeds do not germinate until about 
 June 1. Better to start Cockscomb under glass April 
 1. When sown in the cold-frame, if it does not ap- 
 pear as early as other seedlings, don't give it up, 
 but await warmer days. The feathere-<il variety is 
 almost the height of tall Zinnia. 
 
 Pink Cockscomb: Celosia svicata. A tender annual. Aug.-Oct. 
 
 • ' • • 2—^ ft 
 
 This newer variety, while not as rich in coloring and 
 form, is yet quite effective in groups of three or lour 
 
 [78] 
 
ANNUALS «o^ 
 
 COLOB ^ ^ _ HEIGHT 
 
 plants, rising in slender spikes above Vincas, dwarf 
 Zinnias, etc. Late in the season the pink turns to 
 white. 
 
 Coreopsis. See Calliopsis. 
 
 Corn Flower. See Centaurea cyanus. 
 
 Pink Cosmos, early var. In rich soil and sun, and with July-Oct. 
 Wh't« fading blossoms removed, the early kind is a long and ^"^ '*• 
 free bloomer. Sow under glass by April 1. The crim- 
 son shade approaches so near to the magenta, an un- 
 popular color with many, that it may be best to use 
 only the pink and white colors. 
 
 White Daisy, English: Bellis perennis. Hardy annual. May 
 ^Pj^ Sow seed in August for spring bloom. Give winter ^ "*• 
 protection in cold-frame, except in mild climate. Needs 
 moisture to keep it blooming well for five or six weeks. 
 Discard plants after first bloom. 
 
 Daisy Painted. See Chrysanthemum Burridg. 
 
 Bose DiANTnva Chinensis : Pinks. Hardy annual, double june-Oct 
 wv^*^ and single. Many prefer the single variety, of which ^ '*-^ 
 Salmon Queen and Eastern Queen are fine specimens, 
 particularly effective behind Sweet Alyssum. When 
 using a red variety, plant the double white "Snow- 
 ball" with it, for better effect. Sow Portulaca of 
 same color, sometimes sparingly, around a group of 
 Dianthus. It does best in rich, light soil and sun, with 
 some watering in dry times. Sow in open nursery in 
 
 [79] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^^ 
 
 COLOR _ HEIGHT 
 
 spring, for bloom three months later, or else under 
 glass in February or March for bloom in late June. 
 Under favorable conditions it will survive the winter 
 in the open to bloom the second season. 
 
 Yellow EscHSCHOLTZiA : California Poppj^ Hardy annual. July-Oct 
 This pretty border flower requires light soil and sun 
 and is at its best in a sea climate. It is essentially a 
 sun plant. While it thrives near the sea, it sometimes 
 "damps off" in long continued rains, even inland. 
 
 * Euphorbia. See Snow-on-the-Mountain. 
 
 White Fevebfew, Mayweed: Matricaria capensis, alba, g"" *^ 
 plena. Hardy perennial, but treat as hardy annual. 
 Use double white variety only. Sow in August and 
 September, for June bloom. Again in May for Aug- 
 ust flowering. May also be propagated by cuttings 
 and division. See same in perennial list. 
 
 Blue * Forget-me-not: Myosotis alpestris. Var. Vic- May-June 
 toria, one of the best of these biennials, will survive ™' 
 cold winter with suflScient protection. Sow in August 
 in frame. 
 
 White * Fuchsia: Lady's-Eardrop. Tender annual. In a June-Oct. 
 and pink (Jj.y^ hot climate this plant succeeds only in partial 
 bined shade, with ample watering and light, rich soil. When- 
 ever possible, use standard Fuchsia as a background 
 to the lower ones. Choose the pink-and-white com- 
 binations. Buds may be picked off at certain times 
 
 [80] 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 COLOR _ _ HEIOHT 
 
 in order to induce a more profuse bloom when most 
 needed. Buy plants. 
 
 Gold and Gaillardia, vars. pida and amblyodon : Blanket- 13 ^ 
 ^^" Flower. Hardy annual. Profuse and continuous 
 bloomer. Set 5 inches apart and plant in groups. Any 
 good soil and sun. 
 
 Garnet * Globe Amaranth; Gomphrena. Hardy annual. July-Oct. 
 Pink Plant a patch 3 by 2 feet of the garnet-red nana com- "*' 
 pacta, 8 inches apart, margined with a band of the 
 pink variety. Grow in sun and any good soil. 
 
 Shell- *GoDETiA. A delicate, beautiful flower. Half July 
 pint hardy. Does best in rather poor soil. It is not a long 
 bloomer; if alternated with China Aster will finish 
 blooming before the Asters begin. Use only in large 
 garden where great variety is required. 
 
 Gomphrena. See Globe Amaranth. 
 
 Helianthus. See Sunflower. 
 
 Blue HeIjIOTIIofe: Heliotropium. Tender annual. Grown June-Oct. 
 in standard form to the height of 3 feet or more, 3 ft. and 1ft. 
 it is a most effective plant, especially when used with 
 low-growing Heliotrope or Ageratum at its base. A 
 mass of low-growing Heliotrope with a border of 
 Sweet Alyssum or white Petunia is also desirable. The 
 common lilac shade is the more sweet-scented. Variety 
 centifleur is more popular with its rich tone of deep 
 blue. Generally propagated by cuttings in green- 
 
 [81] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^^ 
 
 COLOR HEIGHT 
 
 house. Cut off fading flowers to prevent a rusty look 
 and to encourage bloom until frost. 
 
 Iberis. See Candytuft. 
 
 Light * Impatiens sultani: Zanzibar Balsam. Tender an- July-Oct. 
 pink nual. Grouped behind Sweet Alyssum in a pink bed, ^^ "*' 
 it is most desirable. Pinch back to induce branching. 
 Once started, it is easier thereafter to propagate it from 
 cuttings. The light-pink variety only is advised; is 
 more often seen in England than in this country. 
 
 White *Lantana, var. alba perfecta. Half-hardy annual. June-Oct. 
 A mass of this white plant is often useful. Set plants "*' 
 7 or 8 inches apart, pinch back centre stem consider- 
 ably to produce bushy plant. Keep plant trimmed to 
 12 to 15 inches in height. 
 
 Blue Larkspur: Delphinium. Hardy annual. One of July2(MDct. 
 ^^ the most valuable of the annuals because of its tall ^^^°'^^S^ 
 Crimson spikes and fine colors. When fall-sown it blooms at a 
 
 Lilac 
 
 period (July 1) when the mass of showiest hardy peren- 
 nials are not in flower (near New York) and the other 
 annuals are only just beginning to bloom. It may be 
 sown also in spring, producing flowers three months 
 later, and thus two sowings provide Larkspur for a 
 long season. Give the fall-sown plants a light, loose 
 winter covering. In early spring transplant to the 
 garden. Sow the spring-sown ones in the open nurs- 
 ery or frame, and move to the garden with roots 
 
 [82] 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 OLOR HEIGHT 
 
 balled, when 2 or 3 inches high. Set them near the 
 elder ones if needed there, or sow in garden. 
 
 Pink *Lavatera trimestris grandiflora rosea: Mallow. July-Aug. 
 Hardy annual. Generally sown May where it is to ^ 
 bloom, and thinned out to 10 inches apart. Grows 
 best in sun and rich soil and needs plenty of water. 
 Thrives near the sea. Rather a bushy plant. Use 
 only in large garden where more variety is desired. 
 In flower about a month. 
 
 Blue * Lobelia, var. Crystal Palace compacta. Tender June-Oct. 
 annual. Very effective growing with low Sweet Alys- "*' 
 sum. Set Lobelias 5 inches apart in any light, rich 
 soil, sun or semi-shade. Propagate by seed or cutting. 
 Only frequent watering will give prolonged bloom. 
 Does best in cool climate or else semi-shade. 
 
 Dark * LoBELiA, var. Tenuior. Tender annual. A taller June-Sept. 
 
 blue variety. Use only when sufficient moisture can be 
 White 
 
 eye supplied, if long bloom is required. In a dry climate 
 
 it is not long-lived. 
 
 White *Lxtpin: Lupinus. Hardy annual. Grows easily May-June 
 ^}^^ and quickly in congenial surroundings; rather difficult ^~^ "• 
 to transplant. Needs plenty of water in dry climate, 
 and a good soil that is not too light. Prefers semi- 
 shade. Sow seeds 5 inches apart April 1 for bloom 
 six weeks later. Once established in a place like a 
 wild garden, it will often perpetuate itself indefinitely. 
 
 [83] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^„^^ 
 
 COLOB HEIGHT 
 
 Pale Maeigold: Tagetes erecta. Hardy annual. Use June-Oct. 
 ow ^{j.jg^jj variety, Lemon Queen. Not as dainty as most 
 of its neighbors in the garden, but gives so freely to 
 the garden decoration that it should not be despised. 
 Marigold, Pot. See Calendula. 
 Matricaria. See Feverfew. 
 Myosotis. See Forget-me-not. 
 Pink * Nasturtium: Tropceolum. Dwarf variety. Hardy June-Oct. 
 ^^^^ annual. The red colors are apt to conflict with other ^ 
 shades, so choose only the pink and white shades. 
 Seeds sown May 1 behind Pansies near the border of 
 a bed come up nicely to succeed the latter. 
 
 White Nicotiana affinis: Tobacco Plant. Hardy annual. July-Oct. 
 Sweet-scented, excellent for shady position, as well as ^""^ ^** 
 sun. Closes its petals in bright sun. Set plants 1 foot 
 apart, and pick off the broad lower leaves to prevent 
 crowding when plant has grown. It self -sows so freely 
 that it is unnecessary to buy seeds the second year if 
 you are familiar enough with the young plants to 
 preserve the seedlings when they appear — about June 
 1. Transplants easily. 
 
 Blue Pansy: Heartsease. Hardy annual. Most gar- Apri!-Oct. 
 ^^?^ deners sow the Pansy in late August, to bloom the ® "*• 
 Red following spring, and winter it in a cold-frame, from 
 Lilac j^jg^ York City northward. Farther south they are 
 usually wintered in the open ground under a cov- 
 ering of leaves or hay. To do well, the Pansy should 
 
 [84] 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 COLOR _ _ HEIGHT 
 
 have rich, fine soil and moisture. It is also sown in 
 spring to bloom in late summer. It is more satisfac- 
 tory to choose your own seeds, letting the lighter 
 shades predominate, as they are more effective in the 
 garden. Plant in patches of solid colors, or in alter- 
 nating colors that blend well. Pansy bloom can be 
 had continuously from May to October by having two 
 sets of plants, fall-sown and spring-sown. In the 
 shorter, cooler seasons of the North, Pansies need 
 not be replaced. 
 
 Pink Petunia. The single-bedding Petunia seems to be June-Oct. 
 Cr^on longer-lived by a few weeks than the larger and double ^ '°* 
 or the fringed varieties. Use the single and compact 
 Petunia, as it makes a neater and more even growth. 
 Have white Snowball. Rosy Morn, Pink Beauty, 
 and Brilliant are best in pink. If particular about 
 colors, do not depend upon self-sown seeds, as they 
 are apt to revert to original color. Remove fading 
 flowers. Sow April 1 under glass, if bloom is to 
 begin June 25. 
 
 Crimson 
 
 White *Phlox Drummondii. Use this charming plant July, late 
 . when the gardener has time to replace it with some- 
 
 thing else after its comparatively short bloom. It 
 generally blooms about six weeks. Plant 10 inches 
 apart. Pinch out main shoot to induce bushy growth 
 and to prolong flowering season. Keep from going 
 to seed. Sun, good soil, and watering necessary. 
 
 [85] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 PopPT, California. See Eschscholtzia. 
 
 MONTH 
 HEIGHT 
 
 Pinks * Poppy, Shirley, Corn Poppy: Papaver Rhoes. May, late, or 
 ^^^ll Hardy annual. Poppies sown about August 20 will June, late 
 bloom late May. Sown April 1, will bloom late June. 
 When they come up very crowded, thin them out. 
 Those who would use Shirley Poppies in masses in a 
 garden of continuous bloom must be confronted with 
 a serious question: What to do with the space they 
 cover after the bloom of three or four weeks? When 
 sown the previous August to bloom in late May, they 
 will be ready for removal by mid-June, and are easily 
 replaced by long-blooming annuals like Celosia or 
 Zinnias, which are not so difficult to move at this time. 
 If, however, they are sown in spring, the space will 
 be flowerless for the ten or eleven weeks of their grow- 
 ing period till they bloom in late June. When they 
 depart in mid-July, it is not as simple a matter to re- 
 place them. Possibly the best advice, especially when 
 spring-sown, is to sow them in a thin line or in small 
 clumps, near plants that will later spread over their 
 spaces. Prefer cool or moist climate. 
 
 Pink * PoRTULACA : Sun-plant. Hardy annual. Fewpeo- July-Oct. 
 
 gjjg pie care for the ordinary mixed colors of this plant; ^ "*• 
 but used under separate colors, possibly rose and white, 
 it makes an attractive edging. In the shade and at 
 sundown, this flower closes up, detracting from its 
 beauty. Does not germinate until about June 1, and 
 then develops very quickly. If particular about colors, 
 
 [86] 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 COLOB HEIGHT 
 
 do not depend next year upon self-sown seeds, as 
 they are apt to revert to original color. Seems to do 
 as well in poor as in rich soil. 
 
 Various Salpiglossis grandiflora: Painted Tongue. Ten- July-Sept. 
 der annual. Lovely shades marked with colored veins. 
 Blooms for two months imder congenial conditions. 
 Plants are slim and can be placed 5 inches apart. 
 Prefers rich, light soil. Sometimes difficult to start, 
 and more often satisfactory started in the greeidiouse. 
 In some places where it does as well when sown in 
 the open, a second sowing can be made in garden for 
 late bloom. To make them effective in the garden, 
 plant at least eight in a group. 
 
 Blue * Salvia farinacea : Sage. Treat as hardy annual, July-Oct. 
 blue. Bushy plant, flowers in long spikes. Use only 
 in large bed, as one plant occupies considerable space, 
 possibly 2 feet square. 
 
 Yellow *Sanvitalia procumbens, fl. pi. Creeping plant. June-Sept. 
 Tender annual. Small double flowers. Set plants ^ "*• 
 6 to 8 inches apart. Mixes well with Sweet Alyssum. 
 Can be kept compact by pinching back, or else let it 
 creep out in slender sprays over a broad patch of 
 Sweet Alyssum. Better sow under glass. 
 
 White Scabiosa: Sweet Scabious, Mourning Bride. Hardy July-Oct. 
 ^'^ annual. Use tall variety. Flowers grow on long stems, ^^ ^*- 
 reds with but little foliage, so plants may be set 6 inches 
 Violets apart in groups. Has a long, continuous bloom. 
 
 [87] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^^ 
 
 COLOB _ _ HEIGHT 
 
 Prefers rich soil, not very heavy, may be started 
 under glass, but grows quickly from seed sown in 
 the garden after frost time. 
 
 White *ScHiZANTHUs: Butterfly- Flower. A tender green- June, July 
 house luxury, covered with blossoms for a month. ^' 
 A few may be used in a large garden if they can be 
 later replaced by a long and late bloomer. Use light 
 pink preferably. 
 
 Pinks * SiLENE arwima: Catchfly. Hardy annual. Used May, late 
 White j^ masses, or as a band (in two rows) around a mass 
 of Bluets, this plant is a valuable addition to the 
 garden when German Iris is in bloom, and later. It 
 is especially attractive when white and the paler of 
 the two pinks predominate. Sow in August in open 
 nursery or cold-frame. In cold climate needs a little 
 more winter protection than do Bluets, but will die 
 under heavy covering of manure. Use salt-hay or 
 straw moderately or slat-frame. Plants may be set 
 4 inches apart. Moisture prolongs bloom. 
 
 White Snapdragon: Antirrhinum. Tall variety. Hardy June-Oct. 
 Red^ annual. Possibly the choicest of all the garden plants. 
 
 Yellow May be had in full bloom through the longest season 
 if sown in hotbed or greenhouse by March 1, and 
 again, in the open by May 1. When June bloom is 
 desired and if it cannot be started in spring in heat 
 nor purchased in plants, then sow in August, and 
 
 ♦American catalogues. 
 
 [88] 
 
ANNUALS uosm 
 
 COIiOB HEIGHT 
 
 winter it in cold-frame. Needs sun and moderately 
 rich soil that is not too heavy. Remove fading flow- 
 ers to prolong bloom. In Maine, with its shorter 
 season and cooler, moister climate, the early spring 
 sowing is sufficient. Sometimes blooms two seasons. 
 
 Whitish *Snow-on-the-Mountain: Euphorbia variegata. July-Oct. 
 foliage Tender annual. Foliage plant, green and white. Six 
 plants grouped 10 inches apart makes an effective 
 mass in a large bed. Plants are strong and bushy. 
 
 Yellow Sunflower, Miniature, Single: Helianthus cucu- July-Oct. 
 io Cream merifolius. Hardy annual. Indispensable in the plan 
 for a long bloom, easily raised, and a continuous 
 bloomer. While young keep it from being crowded. 
 One plant to a space. 
 
 Yellow * Tagetes signata pumila. Hardy annual, a dwarf June-Oct. 
 form of Marigold, with a more attractive fragrance 
 and a finer, more fern-like foliage than any of the 
 others. Compact growth and with small flowers. A 
 row of these plants 10 inches apart near the front of 
 a yellow bed adds sunshine to the garden for those 
 who care for yellow. Pinch back once or twice. 
 
 Tobacco Plant. See Nicotiana. 
 
 Blue * ToRENiA Fournieri. Tender annual. Beautiful July-Oct. 
 little flowers on a bushy plant. Thrives in semi-shade 
 and rich, light soil. Better to start it in greenhouse or 
 hotbed. Set plants 6 inches apart in line or groups. 
 
 189] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „„^™ 
 
 MONTH 
 COLOR HEIGHT 
 
 Totjch-Me-Not. See Impatiens Sultani. 
 
 Pink Verbena, Mammoth. Tender annual. Use deep- June-Oct. 
 
 Dark ^^^^ Verbena venosa, and the darker-red variety and, 
 red if possible, secure the pink, Verbena, var. Francis. 
 Set plants about 10 inches apart. When branches 
 grow long peg them down to the earth to take root at 
 these points. Remove all fading flowers and the bloom 
 will continue till frost. To make sure of germination, 
 soak seeds in tepid water for two hours; sow in rich 
 light soil in March (for June bloom) in house or hot- 
 bed or greenhouse and transplant to flats. Plant out 
 after frost time. Verbena dislikes heavy soil. 
 
 White Vinca: Madagascar Periwinkle. Tender annual. July-Oct. 
 ■^^^ Use more white, and white with pink eye than plain "'" 
 deep pink. Sow in hotbed or cold-frame. Set plants 
 6 inches apart in lines or groups. When planting a line 
 make it a double or triple line for better effect. Its 
 position should be not far from the front edge of the 
 bed. 
 
 Pink Zinnia: Youth-and-Old-Age. Hardy annual. Care- June-Oct. 
 Buff fully avoid the deep yellow, also scarlet. One of the 
 White most useful of all the annuals. In some beds the 
 taller variety is desirable, and again the dwarf kind 
 is preferable. Sometimes the taller may be used 
 in a line behind a line of the dwarf variety. For 
 June bloom it must be started under glass by April 1. 
 It transplants easily in any size. With constant cut- 
 
 [90] 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 ting off of the fading bloom, it continues to look fresh 
 and vigorous until frost. Sown in a sheltered sunny 
 corner of the open nursery, Zinnias will begin to show 
 their color just before July 1, a little later than those 
 sown in the cold-frame April 1. Unfortunately few 
 open nurseries have warm corners. As the seeds un- 
 der separate colors may not all come true, sow also a 
 packet of mixed Zinnias from which to take the favorite 
 shades in case there are bad tones among the plants of 
 separate colors. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 Canna use Pink, White only. 
 
 * Dahlia, Cactus, single, etc. Allow one or two 
 tubers to a plant, make a slight hollow in surface of 
 soil above roots, and apply water freely when the 
 bloom is unsatisfactory. Store tubers in winter in 
 moderate temperature. Plant in May or June. 
 
 Gladioli. Plant 3 inches deep. They bloom two 
 months after planting. Give house protection in 
 winter. 
 
 Tulip, Early Variety, dwarfer. 
 
 Tulip, Late: Darwin, Cottage, May -flowering. 
 When flowers fade, remove them, but let the foliage re- 
 main until dry. If they must be lifted to make room 
 for other things plant them in good soil outside the 
 garden and place them in beds again after frost has 
 destroyed the garden. They are better left undisturbed. 
 
 [91] 
 
 MONTH 
 HEIGHT 
 
Chapter IX 
 MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 
 A CITY YARD 
 
 The following brief plan might be adapted to suit 
 the small area of a city yard, and the photograph op- 
 posite this page, of a pergola for the rear of such a 
 yard is a delightful suggestion for the town garden. 
 Covered with Wistaria bloom in May, and climbing 
 Nasturtium in September, how cool and green within 
 and how bright and cheerful this patch of country 
 color brought into the city's barrenness ! When the 
 laundry can be elsewhere provided for, the grass plot 
 may be filled with Daffodils and the two periods of 
 Tulips, covering a season of six weeks. Later the 
 green sod gives no sign of the hidden bulbs. The 
 small beds at the four corners overflow with annuals 
 early and late. The most suitable of these for a semi- 
 shady yard in spring and September are Pansies fall- 
 sown and spring-sown, or else fall-sown Pansies fol- 
 lowed by white and blue Ageratum, compact Petunias 
 or Torenia, or else the Tulips mixed in with Viola 
 cornuta, h. p. The latter plant in partial shade with 
 
 [92] 
 
X 
 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 
 ample watering is supposed with care to bloom on 
 from mid-May till October 1. 
 
 The two long bordering beds, if possible not less 
 than 3 3^ feet deep, can contain the same combination 
 
 ii. 
 
 
 2 
 
 \ 
 
 r 
 
 Grass 
 
 N\ 
 
 V 
 
 N ^ 
 
 J 
 
 Ta.-t-S 
 
 3 
 
 oo 
 
 w 
 
 
 0. 
 
 Cu 
 
 I 
 
 of plants as those advised for the long beds in the 
 discussion of the "Spring and Fall Garden." 
 
 The walls may be covered with Akebia quintata 
 with its dainty leaf and purplish spring berry, and 
 with Vitis, heterophylla var., whose iridescent blue 
 
 [93] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 berry and delicate foliage are an exceptionally artistic 
 adornment for the indoor flower-bowl in September. 
 
 MY GARDEN 
 
 Less than one acre on a hillside. Two terraces, 
 making two flights of steps between the house and 
 lower garden. In laying out this small place, a rather 
 informal planting seemed desirable in order that the re- 
 stricted space and boundary lines could be treated in a 
 manner that might cause them to be unnoticed, more 
 or less. For this purpose a part of the main path was 
 laid out in irregular lines with just enough shrubbery on 
 either side to conceal the curves. This scheme leaves 
 something to the imagination, which interesting sense is 
 sure to exaggerate and to enlarge while the path keeps 
 turning. 
 
 In the upper garden, as shown in the wide view, 
 notice that the planting is made rather diflScult by 
 the shade of the Apple-trees, although at the risk of 
 the flowers, the gardener has never dreamed of dis- 
 pensing with anything as cherished as these graceful 
 old trees. On the right, where the shadows are denser, 
 early wild flowers and Narcissi grow, and Forget-me- 
 nots appear with the Apple bloom, followed later by 
 the cheerful Nicotiana affinis and Salvia to enliven the 
 shadows. The little formal planting on the left has 
 the sun after ten in the morning and many of the 
 perennials and annuals thrive here. 
 
 [94] 
 
X 
 
 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 
 In the lower garden, where there is more sun, there 
 are beds of bloom and groups of tall shrubs. A small, 
 curved path between two Rose beds leaves the main 
 walk to end in a grape arbor, through which a grass 
 path leads to the gardener's bower enclosed by shrubs 
 and "skylighted." This circular green room contains 
 a curved white seat and table, and is a peaceful re- 
 treat, inviting book and pen, or other quiet pastime. 
 Elsewhere there are nooks for Lilies-of-the-Valley, 
 bulbs in the grass, and a bird bath, while the eight- 
 room purple martin house stands like a lodge near the 
 gate leading into a lane. Absolute simplicity, cosiness, 
 and privacy prevail, all made possible by a few shrubs, 
 trees, and flowers, and some imagination. Contrasting 
 it now with its original state as a grassy slope bounded 
 with fences, one might say — quoting Mr. Lowell: 
 
 "Till now one dreamed not what could be done 
 With a bit of earth and a ray of sun." 
 
 THE SEPARATE SPRING GARDEN 
 
 Under the title of this book it may at first seem 
 inappropriate that any section of it should be given 
 to a garden of but one period of bloom. The unresisted 
 temptation to dwell on the possibilities of spring alone, 
 will find its excuse in the fact that for lack of space 
 long continuous bloom must usually exclude an early 
 
 [95 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 spring planting in the main garden, for which there- 
 fore provision must elsewhere be made. Then in- 
 cidentally, to those not at home to enjoy the summer 
 flowers, the separate spring garden will suggest the 
 opportunity for including fall bloom, and here again 
 we have the original scheme of continuous bloom de- 
 lightfully ignored. Such inconsistency will be pardoned 
 at least by him whom it benefits. 
 
 In some favored places spring can lead us to a 
 veritable fairy-land of blossoms in a cosey nook of her 
 own. Perhaps it lies within an outer court of the main 
 garden, or sometimes away in a partly shaded corner 
 of the place, preferably just below a sloping bank upon 
 which is given special opportunity for the fuller dis- 
 play of the lower plants. Within this enclosure late 
 April is represented by clumps of Daffodils springing 
 from the borders of the grassy walks at intervals of 
 3 feet. Pansies and English Daisies are opening in 
 the small beds. While the rising slope at one end of 
 this garden is covered with Phlox subulata, blue Peri- 
 winkles, Primroses, and Daffodils. Later wild Lupins 
 adorn the bank. On the other three sides, just be- 
 yond the boundary lines, the Forsythias are flowering, 
 followed by Magnolia and Cherry bloom. 
 
 Again, there is nothing fairer than that which May 
 has to offer. A wall of blossoms is possible on shrub 
 and trees just over the line. The bank is blue with 
 Lupin, and the small open beds (if there are any), 
 
 [ 96 1 
 
>< 
 
 fH 
 
 a 
 -a 
 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 
 are now carpeted in all the dazzling hues of Pansies, 
 English Daisies, Viola cornuta, Forget-me-not {alpes- 
 tris), etc. Two periods of glowing Tulips may rise 
 in turn from the middle of the open beds. A centre 
 group of Cottage Tulips margined with two closely 
 set lines of early Tulips. The plants in these small 
 beds (Tulips excepted, of course) can be set out in 
 April if the climate does not permit of their wintering 
 in the open. 
 
 The wall beds, those against a background, what- 
 ever it may be, would contain mainly the taller hardy 
 perennials of April and May, placed alternately the 
 length of the centre line. First, blooming, sky-blue 
 Mertensia Virginica, and Phlox divaricata, the Golden 
 Doronicums, and early and late Tulips. The lower 
 plants growing at the edge are Arabis and Candytuft, 
 alternating with some Pansies. The Tulips, of course, 
 take an important part, and the colors of the different 
 groups should be a matter of careful study. 
 
 The second period of May offers quite a choice of 
 plants, but for a small garden this selection is advised. 
 Bleeding-Heart, in front of Valerian at the four cor- 
 ners (if the garden is square) Lupin poly., Pyrethrum, 
 hybrid. Columbine, Oriental Poppy, German Iris, and 
 fall-sown Silene and Bluets. Beyond the walls in early 
 May, the Apple-trees are in blossom, then the Lilacs 
 come, preceding Mock-Orange shrubs and perfuming 
 the air for many rods away. 
 
 [97] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 THE SPRING AND FALL GARDEN 
 
 When the owner of a separate spring garden in the 
 country would also have a September-flowering plot 
 awaiting him after his summer sojourn afar, it is quite 
 simple to use his May garden for this purpose. 
 
 In June when the annual English Daisies, Pansies, 
 and Forget-me-nots have ceased to do their best in 
 the centre beds, they can be replaced by some long- 
 lived, low-growing annuals, such as Petunia, Verbena, 
 Calliopsis, var. Golden Wave, or pink fibrous Begonias 
 surrounded by Sweet Alyssum. Any of these plants 
 may also replace the Pansies in the front line of the 
 wall beds. 
 
 In the rear line of the wall beds where the May 
 perennials grow, Monkshood Wilsoni should have its 
 permanent place for September bloom, and Septem- 
 ber-flowering Chrysanthemums, Snapdragon, Gladioli, 
 and Larkspur may replace the vanished Mertensia, 
 Oriental Poppy, Silene, Bluets, and Tulips. 
 
 THE OUTER COURT 
 
 An outer court to the garden proper is an added 
 delight when space will allow sufficient breadth to 
 prevent a cramped feeling within its walls. The court 
 itself can be treated in various ways and at the same 
 time it gives a sense of special privacy to the garden en- 
 closure. It is an ideal place for an early spring garden. 
 
 [98] 
 
y. 
 
 .J 
 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 COLOR 
 
 COLOR IN MASS 
 
 In a garden where bloom is required only for two 
 or three periods, for instance during July and August 
 into September, it is a simple matter to produce the 
 color effect in masses. For a longer space of time it 
 is impossible to give all the periods an equal repre- 
 sentation over each bed, except in small groups of 
 color, or single plants depending on size of bed. 
 
 COLOR IN GARDEN 
 
 To preserve harmony in the coloring of the garden, 
 orange and light red should be very sparingly Used. 
 In fact, it is best to bar out any but dark reds. Un- 
 less one is truly an artist a safe rule for the use of orange 
 is to keep it close to pale yellow and white. 
 
 In gardens where some beds may be viewed from 
 more than one point, study the effect of color com- 
 bination from all sides. From one position all may 
 blend well, from another point the eye may connect 
 discordant tones in two adjoining beds that were not 
 visible before. What more painful than a meeting of 
 orange and pink? Or of pink and red Salvia? How 
 welcome the warm touch of dark red or maroon as 
 found in some Hollyhocks, Snapdragon, Verbena, 
 Dianthus, and an occasional Zinnia, feathered Celosia, 
 
 [99] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 rare, deep-red Oriental Poppy, Pyrethrum, hybrid, and 
 some Phlox Drummondii. Another desirable red is 
 the garnet Globe Amaranth and Agrostemma coronaria. 
 The darker reds will harmonize with everything. 
 Many hired gardeners need to have this subject of 
 reds and yellows brought forcibly to their attention, 
 especially when they must order the seeds and group 
 the plants. 
 
 Rarely do our gardens contain suflScient white. 
 Use white freely; it seems to bring out all the other 
 colors with it. 
 
 Where all colors are admitted, use also pink and 
 blue plentifully: dark red and yellow more sparingly, 
 except in beds of yellow or red. Let the red bed be 
 relieved with sufficient white and a little blue. In the 
 yellow bed have also some blue and lavender. To the 
 blue bed give some light yellow and white. 
 
 In the pink bed, use white, some lilac tones, and a 
 touch of garnet. 
 
 COLOR STANDARD 
 
 There is a great demand among gardeners for a 
 color chart to guide us in our description of flowers. 
 The need is for the revision of existing names indi- 
 cating the various tones of color according to a recog- 
 nized standard. The question is whether the various 
 horticultural societies and the trade as a whole will 
 consent to recognize such a classification. A chart of 
 "Color Standards" has been recently made, and it 
 
 [100] 
 
Plate XIII 
 
 FTom a photograph by J. H. MacFarland Co. 
 
 A separate spring garden 
 Harlford, Conn., ^Mrs. J. J. Goodwin 
 
 The outer court — ^"Oreen Court" 
 Augusta, Ga., Mr^. H. P. Crowell 
 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 
 remains to be seen whether the gardening public will 
 adopt it. Mrs. Francis King, who has gone so deeply 
 into the color question, as shown in her delightful 
 book, "A Weil-Considered Garden," writes as follows: 
 "If such a color standard could be adopted gener- 
 ally, there would soon dawn a new era in the ques- 
 tion of correct color naming in this country." At 
 present our color descriptions are sadly misleading. 
 
 PEONIES IN MASS 
 
 In the charmingly planned garden, shown in the 
 upper illustration Plate XVI, suppose the four large 
 beds bordering the central paths were filled with Pe- 
 onies. It is a great temptation to have a mass of 
 this bloom for the beautiful effect in early June: but 
 let us remember that afterward only the edges of 
 such a bed can be counted on to provide blossoms 
 for the remainder of the season. This plan is there- 
 fore not feasible for a garden of continuous bloom, 
 wherein even the largest beds (20 square feet or more) 
 should not contain over four or five of these bushy 
 plants. It is necessary that the remaining space in 
 the bed be given to the other flowering periods, the 
 plants of which are almost as effective and occupy 
 less room. 
 
 POPPIES IN MASS 
 
 Every one wants Shirley Poppies, and the Bar Harbor 
 picture in Plate XVI is an argument in their behalf, 
 
 [101] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 but it is often a difficult problem to handle them satis- 
 factorily in a garden of continuous bloom. In the 
 North, where the summer is shorter and the climate 
 cool and moist especially near the sea, masses of Shirley 
 Poppies can be used to much better advantage than 
 farther south where there are a greater number of 
 periods of bloom for which to provide, and where the 
 climate is warm and dry (except near the shore), 
 which shortens their blossoming season. In Maine, 
 these Poppies, sown in mid-April and again in mid- 
 May, will flower from July 1 till frost, if not allowed 
 to overcrowd one another. The first set must not 
 choke out the second. For further information re- 
 garding this flower, read of its habits in Chapter VIII. 
 
 TREES AND GARDENS 
 
 When questioned as to whether it is advisable to 
 have trees in a garden, the inclination is strong to 
 advocate their use in a large garden which may also 
 have its share of plentiful sunshine. It might be pos- 
 sible to have too much of sunshine ceaselessly for 
 weeks and months, as in some sections of the coun- 
 try, and trees mean varying shadows, and deep re- 
 flections in the pool, a cool retreat from the glare and 
 heat of a summer day; trees bring birds, and sounds 
 called music, to ears attuned, and always there is 
 variety, mystic atmosphere permeating the tree, 
 soul-satisfying to many humans. But not so to cer- 
 
 [102] 
 
X 
 
 ►J 
 
 c 3 
 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 
 tain flowers which are our best garden blossoms. They 
 mostly long for the sun, from its rising to its setting, 
 providing they have suflScient water. They show their 
 disapproval too of the wandering tree roots that find 
 their way to the rich soil of garden-beds. Undoubtedly 
 the garden that is treeless will produce the finest 
 plants in the greatest number, but there are gardeners 
 who prefer fewer flowers and more green foliage and 
 more shadows. 
 
 Beneath the high-arched trees, the few shade- 
 loving plants can be used, but these are not often of 
 the class which give much color effect. In such a 
 garden growths of evergreen shrubs are especially wel- 
 come, while in every open space, where the sun will 
 always find them, should be grouped the flowers that 
 give the beloved color. The gardens shown opposite 
 pages 102 and 106 are beautiful examples. 
 
 When trees are not desired within the garden, at 
 least they should have their place in the background 
 as a setting to the garden, when there is room enough 
 for them on the property. They should be considered, 
 with the wall or hedge, as part of the boundary plan. 
 
 The trees in the background of the attractive but 
 simple garden in Plate XV might almost be called its 
 chief feature, thereby illustrating the argument in 
 favor of a setting of trees in which to frame the garden. 
 
 When starting a new place or garden, do not cut 
 down a single tree until you are positive it will never 
 
 [103] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 be needed. An established tree, especially one grace- 
 fully shaped, may sometimes be found to be invalu- 
 able, literally worth its weight in gold, as an orna- 
 ment within or outside the garden. No new tree could 
 replace it in this or the next generation. If trees are 
 to be planted as a background to the garden, the 
 Weeping Willow has its advantages, growing quickly, 
 the earliest and latest in foliage, healthy and easily 
 trimmed to shape. Contrary to prevailing opinion, it 
 will thrive in (some) dry places, and its roots are no 
 more troublesome near a dry garden than other tree 
 roots, for they mostly go down deep, seeking moisture. 
 Of course the Willow is not as long-lived as Oaks and 
 others. It would be possible often to set out a line of 
 Willows or Apple-trees beyond the garden wall, and 
 to place, 50 or 60 feet behind them, some English 
 Oaks, which are slow-growing. When the Willows or 
 Apple-trees shall have lived their day, a future gen- 
 eration will bless you for the Oaks. Always try to 
 plant for the future as well as for yourself in the 
 present ! 
 
 THE ROSE GARDEN 
 
 The Rose garden which is planted with monthly 
 Roses furnishes the house with cut flowers during a 
 prolonged period, and this may be all that is expected 
 of such a garden, but there is yet one more thing 
 that it may supply if required. Ordinarily, the color 
 
 [ 104] 
 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 
 effect in Rose gardens is weak compared to the rich 
 bloom of the main garden; possibly this point is not 
 a matter of importance to the owner who considers 
 the place more as a picking garden where the pleasure 
 lies in gathering baskets full of lovely color for the 
 house vases. However, should one wish to increase 
 the color in the Rose garden all that is necessary is 
 to border the beds with the dwarf pink or red Baby 
 Ramblers, set about 1 foot apart. These Baby Ram- 
 blers have several periods of bloom, if trimmed back 
 to within about eight inches of the ground, after each 
 bloom, and providing the plants are amply fed and 
 watered. They are profuse bloomers. If the Rose 
 bed measures about 5 or 6 feet in width, two rows 
 of the taller best blooming varieties are sufficient for 
 the inner space of the bed. La France, Dean Hole, 
 Etoile de France, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Lyon 
 Rose, Madame Caroline Testout, Gruss an Teplitz 
 are among those which flower the most freely. 
 
 In order to take away from the flatness of a Rose 
 garden, where the plants are mostly of a uniform 
 height, standard Roses can be used at the corners 
 of the beds, and climbers may have a place in the 
 background, and covering arches over the paths. 
 
 In the climate near New York City, the standard 
 Rose does not often survive a winter in the open, 
 therefore the following treatment is advocated. In 
 the late autumn open a trench deep enough to lay 
 
 [105] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 the standard Rose plant full length, with a covering 
 of earth about 8 inches above the bushy part. Mound 
 the ground on top so that water may run off, and 
 not settle there. Add a layer of manure on top. This 
 same method is often employed for the winter pro- 
 tection of other Roses of the more tender class. 
 
 If Gladioli are planted in the Rose beds July 1, they 
 will flower in September when the Roses are not quite 
 as numerous as in the preceding months. 
 
 Dry blood and sheep manure occasionally for nour- 
 ishment, Scotch soot once or twice to intensify color 
 of leaf and flower, slug-shot dusted on the wet leaves 
 and sprayed off two days later will conquer the pests 
 if applied weekly for a while — these are the first rules 
 for summer treatment of Roses. 
 
 CONTINUOUS WINTER BLOOM IN THE FLOWEE-BOWL 
 
 From the Garden 
 
 Indoors the flower-bowl may contain an unceasing 
 supply from outside for twelve months, although the 
 garden products are supposedly limited to the months 
 of little or no frost. November arriving in our cold 
 climate finds for its adornment only hardy Chrysan- 
 themums, almost ready to succumb, while some foliage 
 and grasses still retain paling tones of russet and red. 
 Then the garden is almost forgotten until the Cro- 
 cuses and Scillas come in March. But, during the 
 
 [106] 
 
Plate X\" 
 
 Trees as a background 
 'Fiiirhnvn," Lenox, Mass., !Miss Ivnccland 
 
 Trees in Preston Garden 
 Columbia, S. C. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
 
 long interval of many weeks between fall and spring 
 the bowl on the dining-table need never be empty if 
 there is at our disposal outdoors the evergreen Myrtle- 
 bed, and the cheerful berries of the Berberis, the lat- 
 ter leafless, of course, when first brought in, but soon 
 in the temperature of a warm room it will put forth 
 the daintiest of tiny spring green leaves, which never 
 develop to full size under these conditions. 
 
 Use a low glass flower-bowl, and within it at the 
 bottom a round glass slab filled with perforations to 
 hold flower stems. These stem supporters are ob- 
 tainable at almost every crockery-store. Cut sprays 
 of Myrtle (Periwinkle) about 6 inches long and twigs 
 of berries from the Barberry bush, and mix them not 
 too densely in the bowl. Both plants will make new 
 growth for a while, and they need not be renewed 
 more than three times before March, if the water is 
 changed several times a week. It is with delight in 
 mid-winter that one beholds this welcome, though 
 simple contribution to the table decoration. Later, 
 for a change, instead of Barberry, small branches of 
 Forsythia as well as Apple-blossoms can be forced into 
 bloom, and always the Myrtle is invaluable as a foliage 
 setting. Its blue flowers will not appear by this sort 
 of forcing. 
 
 [107] 
 
Chapter X 
 
 SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 
 
 The author's earher book, "The Seasons in a Flower 
 Garden," is more or less a collection of the simpler 
 "Do's," and "Don'ts," of garden-life, and conse- 
 quently it would not perhaps be very profitable to 
 add much of general advice on the care of plants for 
 the completion of this volume. A few additional in- 
 structions, however, especially for those who have not 
 had long experience, may be found of use at this 
 point. 
 
 THE FIRST RULE 
 
 After the garden has been planted avoid the notion 
 that thereafter only a little care will be required — that 
 the gardener can go to the garden when all the rest of 
 the work on the place has been attended to. It should 
 be garden first or else no garden. No garden is better 
 than a poor, neglected, slovenly plot. Economizing on 
 the gardener means waste of plant-life and disappoint- 
 ments generally. 
 
 By order, I do not mean that plants should look as 
 rigid as an inverted broomstick, which happens some- 
 
 [108] 
 
SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 
 
 times when they are too tightly tied in the middle. 
 Let the main stem be supported by stakes, tied with 
 green cord, with the side branches free to spread as 
 nature meant they should, except those that need to 
 be pinched back to induce branching, or when they 
 are shading some plant requiring light. When Cosmos, 
 Sunflowers, Dahlias, or any of the plants with a strong 
 centre stalk are allowed to have "humped-backs," 
 then the garden begins to look neglected, and after 
 several days of such crookedness they are like Humpty 
 Dumpty, for nothing can make them right again. How- 
 ever, spreading plants like Petunia, Verbena, Ageratum, 
 etc., may sprawl freely without being ungraceful, only 
 take heed lest they sprawl over something that wants 
 to be left alone and free. Another sign of neglect is 
 when fading flowers are not removed. Zinnia, Helio- 
 trope, Ageratum, and some others will wear a very rusty 
 look when thus neglected, which is hardly to be toler- 
 ated in the garden that we love. 
 
 When it is desirable to cut back part of a perennial 
 that has finished blooming, allow sufficient foliage to 
 remain to permit of continued breathing and feeding 
 through the pores of the leaves. 
 
 PEONIES 
 
 If a Peony plant is crowding other things, trim it 
 only lightly at first, and loosely tie the stalks together. 
 By mid-August it can be cut down considerably, as it 
 
 [ 109] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 will then have acquired most of the vigor necessary 
 to sustain its bloom for the next season. For this 
 reason July is a good time to feed its roots. When 
 Peonies must be moved, August is the best month, 
 in order that they may take root again before becom- 
 ing dormant. 
 
 LILACS 
 
 Within a month after the Lilac has finished bloom- 
 ing, cut out the suckers from around the base, feed 
 and water it generously, and you are quite sure of 
 fine bloom the following year, providing the shrub 
 has been established in its place a year or more, and 
 that the soil is even moderately good. The same rule 
 holds for all shrubs needing to be improved, and which 
 after blooming proceed to make their buds for the 
 next year. Perhaps it is needless to add that the 
 pruning time for this class of shrub is immediately 
 after blooming. Don't prune Lilacs often. 
 
 PRECAUTION IN THE PERENNIAL BED 
 
 An extra precaution for the preservation of our 
 perennials is not to have the beds dug over in spring 
 until nearly May 1, near New York City, and some- 
 what later in a colder place. The most careful digger 
 is apt to stab the unseen plants, or to break the very 
 brittle young shoots of plants just appearing. How- 
 ever, by April 1, lift carefully with a fork most of the 
 litter from the beds. 
 
 [110] 
 
Plate X\I 
 
 From a photograph by J. II. MncFudand Co. 
 
 Peonies in mass 
 Long Island 
 
 JHnflHI^B 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 "^MMf^- :i',^^^^^B^^^^ 
 
 1 
 
 
 t 
 
 ^^•:.. :-;.::--..; ■; ■ ; 
 
 ^j^^'^'j^gppt -4 
 
 rtilt 
 
 
 
 *sfe 
 
 »J??t" -'■""■ -■■•r%j . ^- 
 
 ■IB^^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 'm 
 
 i^^Hii 
 
 From a photograph by J. II. MacFarland Co. 
 
 Shirley poppies 
 Bar Harbor, Me. 
 
SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 
 
 PERMANENT MARKERS 
 
 There are a few perennials so late to appear in spring 
 that it is well to mark their places with an iron rod, 
 as wooden stakes are apt to break oflf in winter. These 
 plants, which are quite long-lived are Anemone Ja- 
 ponica. Salvia azurea, and Eupatorium coelestinum; 
 and, because of its longevity, Gas Plant also deserves a 
 permanent marker as does Mertensia, because its foli- 
 age disappears soon after bloom is over. 
 
 PLANT IN STANDARD FORM 
 
 With the exception of the standard Rose, Americans 
 use few plants in standard form. It is to be hoped 
 that we are soon to give more attention to this method 
 of getting the best effect from certain plants, for un- 
 doubtedly the standards outrank all others in pro- 
 fusion of bloom. The plants in standard form to be 
 found in some American catalogues are Rose, Helio- 
 trope, Fuchsia, Laburnum, Snowball, Weigelia, Locust, 
 Wistaria, and Hydrangea. Some of them may be 
 kept in tubs, and moved to the garden at their bloom- 
 ing time, replacing some earlier blooming variety; 
 for instance, a succession of Wistaria, Snowball, Rose, 
 and Hydrangea; but Heliotrope and Fuchsia bloom 
 all summer. 
 
 LUPIN AND GAS PLANT 
 
 Perennial Lupin poly, and Gas Plant bloom at the 
 same time, the one in colors of white and blue, the other 
 
 [111] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 in white and pink: both doubtless equally popular. 
 Lupins live only a few years at the longest; Gas Plants 
 are very long-lived, and therefore give better satis- 
 faction. If possible, however, in the narrow beds al- 
 ways endeavor to grow the Lupins rather than Gas 
 Plants, as the latter when full-grown are too bushy 
 for a small space. It takes several years before their 
 roots are well established, and they become pro- 
 fuse bloomers. Plan for them eventually in most 
 beds. See illustrations opposite page 24. 
 
 In the first three years of a new garden Lupins 
 should be freely used while Gas Plants are slowly 
 developing. The later blooming Lupin Moerheimi is 
 invaluable to its period. 
 
 GENERAL HINTS 
 
 When a Privet hedge is desired, choose the rounder- 
 leaf variety. The foliage of the slim, more pointed leaf 
 is not as dense. The rounder-leaf Boxwood plant is 
 also generally preferred as an edging. 
 
 Because the life of Arbor-Vitse is scarcely over 
 seventy-five years, it is well to select as a hedge plant 
 some longer-lived evergreen. Consult a nurseryman 
 of your district. 
 
 Hollow slightly the surface over the roots of shrubs 
 and deep-rooted plants to keep all the water from 
 running off. 
 
 In moving annuals, the size, for instance, of 5-incli 
 [112] 
 
SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 
 
 Larkspur (larger Larkspur do not transplant well), water 
 from a cup, with a pail near by, is more easily and 
 directly applied than from the spout of a water-pot. 
 The plants most sensitive to disturbance should have 
 several cups of water to soak the hole and soil around 
 the roots. Don't depend altogether on rain-soaked 
 soil when transplanting annuals. 
 
 Heavy clay soil may be broken up by a thorough 
 mixture with it of ashes or sand and if possible leaf- 
 mould. It takes less of sand than of other substances 
 to make the clay friable, but the former, of course, 
 impoverishes the soil, and necessitates plenty of fer- 
 tilizer to counteract this effect. Leaf-mould, unless in 
 large quantity, without ashes or sand is not sufficient 
 to lighten clay soil. 
 
 In planting Pansies, use in the majority of the 
 groups masses of separate colors, rather than mixtures, 
 and let the whites and yellows predominate. Set out 
 good-sized plants in April, if they are to adorn an early 
 spring garden. This means the sowing of them August 
 1. Those intended to begin bloom in late May, should 
 only commence to be at their best about May 20, and 
 for this reason don't sow them till late August, and 
 plant out May 1. 
 
 If Wistaria will not bloom, some one advises digging 
 down about 2 feet to cut off a part of the tap-root in 
 order to force out more of the fibrous roots which will 
 produce blossoms. 
 
 [113] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 For very best results sow Hollyhocks where they 
 are to grow. 
 
 It takes so long to raise bulbs from seed that it is 
 not worth while to attempt it excepting with Dahlias. 
 
 When transplanting, move Irises, Oriental Poppies, 
 Lilies candidum if possible a month or two after 
 blooming to insure more perfect flowers the next year. 
 In congenial soil they can remain undisturbed and 
 prosperous for years. 
 
 Rhododendron, Azalea, and Laurel must not be 
 treated with manure, but need plenty of leaf-mould in 
 the soil and old leaves over the surface of soil winter 
 and summer. 
 
 With choice specimen Boxwood, brush off the snow 
 as soon as possible before it begins to melt. 
 
 Ashes near, but not in contact with bulbs is ad- 
 vised when they are menaced by mice. 
 
 Unless the soil is renourished, few annuals do well in 
 the identical space for more than two successive years. 
 
 Never forget that removing fading flowers on an- 
 nuals prolongs bloom. The same rule applies to per- 
 ennial Coreopsis, Agrostemma, Feverfew, Delphinium, 
 Gaillardia, Foxglove, Lupin, Phlox, Salvia pratensis, 
 and Shasta Daisy. 
 
 The annuals especially requiring an early start under 
 glass, are Heliotrope, Begonia, Impatiens, Lobelia, 
 Schizanthus, Torenia, Sanvitalia, Brachycome, Lan- 
 tana. Euphorbia, Vinca, Verbena, and Ageratum. 
 
 [114] 
 
SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 
 
 Where soil is but moderately rich, the climate hot 
 and dry, and frequent sprinkling impossible, sow Cam- 
 panula medium in May as they will be slower in grow- 
 ing than those started in late June under more favorable 
 conditions. 
 
 When planting annuals and perennials, avoid plac- 
 ing roots in contact with manure. A careless gardener 
 generally ignores this rule, and the result may be 
 disastrous. 
 
 Pink Zinnias and Petunias in the best rose tones, 
 are perhaps the most important annuals in a garden 
 of prolonged bloom, but unfortunately, these seeds are 
 most unreliable, especially those of Petunias and the 
 dwarf er pink Zinnia; neither does the light yellow 
 shade always come true, and a dark red Zinnia is al- 
 most impossible to obtain. In order to procure plants 
 of the right colors, sow more than will be required; 
 you may then reasonably hope to find a sufficient 
 number in the desired shades. 
 
 Gardeners who are particular about color blending 
 should attempt to secure their own seeds from the 
 best shades of the following plants: Zinnia, Petunia, 
 pale yellow Anthemis, the most double white Fever- 
 few, and light pink and white Silene armeria, but with 
 only a little of its magenta pink. Feverfew left to 
 self-sow in good soil will supply us the next year with 
 three or four successive crops, offering the opportu- 
 nity for a monthly first bloom of this useful flower, in- 
 
 [115] 
 
CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 
 
 stead of the later and weaker bloom of the older 
 plants. The latter can be discarded for new ones; 
 nothing transplants so easily. In the scheme for con- 
 tinuous bloom, Feverfew, Larkspur, Canterbury Bells, 
 and Zinnia are invaluable. The latter only has a long 
 and uninterrupted bloom, but the others are useful in 
 supplying bloom at times when otherwise the garden 
 coloring may be weak. 
 
 The author's final message for perfecting the plant- 
 ing in a bed of continuous bloom is to use sufficient 
 plants to prevent any vacant spaces being visible after 
 the plants have reached maturity. Plant should touch 
 plant, and there will inevitably be fewer weeds, and 
 the massing would become more harmonious and ef- 
 fective. 
 
 [116] 
 
PLANTING CHARTS 
 
PLANTING CHARTS 
 
 The following charts do not contain quite all the 
 plants that may be included in plantings for con- 
 tinuous bloom. It is a question of preference where 
 some are concerned. Large gardens could have a few 
 other varieties, some of which are named and marked 
 with a star in the chapters on "What to Plant." 
 
 The names on charts printed in black ink are per- 
 ennials; red ink indicates the annuals. 
 
 The author's earliest experiments were made in her 
 own garden, and later experiences in the larger gar- 
 dens of friends furnished ample opportunity for de- 
 veloping satisfactorily an accumulation of ideas and 
 aspirations. The charts are facsimiles of suclcessful 
 plantings. 
 
 In attempting to follow the plans, successful results 
 will be at last attained only when the gardener has 
 learned the knack of crowding without detriment to 
 the plants. Any one familiar with his flowers will 
 know when to allow a 6-inch space to a slim annual, 
 and 18 inches to a bushy perennial, and when to fill 
 a space with one or with more of a kind. Staking 
 the plants likely to lean over and the trimming of the 
 spreading lower leaves that are shading a neighbor 
 are absolutely necessary for success in such beds. 
 
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PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. V 
 
 FOUR SMALL OPEN BEDS 
 
 Dimensions of Outer Oval, 19 x 22 Feet 
 Centre Bed — 5 Feet Diameter. Bird-Fountain Pedestal Base — 2 Feet Diameter 
 
 PEREXXIALS 
 
 Lilium candidum; 9 bulbs, around bird basin. Tulip, late, Cottage variety, pink and white; 18 bulbs, 
 
 on circular line in centre bed. 
 
 ANNUALS 
 
 Ageratum, var. Perfection; 8 plants in a line on inner Pansy; in 2 beds; white and blue, mixed; 5 dozen or 
 
 edge of each of 2 beds. more in a bed. In 2 beds mixed Pansies, 3 dozen 
 
 Daisy, English; 2 dozen; mix with Pansies, in 2 of the or more in a bed, with English Daisies. 
 
 beds. Petunia; in 2 beds, pink Petunias edged with white 
 
 Heliotrope, Standard; the large Hs stand for Stand- Petunias. In 2 beds, white Petunias edged with 
 
 ard Heliotrope; 3 plants in each small bed; 5 plants pink Petunias. About 36 plants required for each 
 
 at regular intervals in centre bed. bed. 
 
CHART NO. V 
 
 Four Small Open Beds — Dimensions of Oval, 19 x 22 Feet. (For H, see opposite page) 
 
PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. VI 
 
 PINK, WHITE, AND SOME BLUE 
 
 Round Bed — 14 Feet Diameter 
 
 PERENNIALS 
 
 Anchusa Italica, Opal; 3 clumps; 2 or 3 plants 6 inches 
 
 apart, to clump. 
 Campanula persicifolia; white, blue, alternating; 8 or 
 
 9 clumps; 4 plants to clump. 
 Chrysanthemum, September-flowering; 2 pink, 1 white; 
 
 3 clumps; 3 plants, set 6 inches apart, to clump. 
 Delphinium belladonna; 4 plants. 
 Foxglove; pink; 3 plants. 
 Gas Plant; 2 white, 1 pink. 
 
 Iris, German; white; 2 clumps; 6 plants to a clump. 
 Lupin polyphyllus; white and blue; 4 plants. 
 
 Phlox, late; 2 pink, 1 white; 3 clumps. 
 
 Platycodon; 2 white, 2 blue; 4 groups; 2 plants to 
 
 group. 
 Pyrethrum, hybrid; pink, white; 9 plants; large. 
 Shasta Daisy; 4 groups; 4 or 5 plants to group. 
 Sweet William; white and pink alternating, in outer 
 
 line; 9 plants. Remove after bloom, fill spaces with 
 
 Heliotrope or Dianthus. 
 Tulip, Cottage, late; white, pink; 9 groups; 3 bulbs to 
 
 a group. 
 
 ANNUALS 
 
 Bluets, mixed; 20 or more plants massed together in 
 
 centre (2 feet diameter), bordered with line of Silene. 
 Canterbury Bells; pink, white; 6 plants; set in front of 
 
 Feverfew. 
 Dianthus, Chinese; pink; 9 groups on outer edge; 3 or 
 
 4 plants to group, alternating with patches of 
 
 Sweet Alyssum. 
 Feverfew; white, double; 5 plants behind Canterbury 
 
 Bells. Fall-sovm and May-sown. 
 Heliotrope; groups of 3 plants; 8 or 10 groups in spaces 
 
 near front. 
 Larkspur; pink, white; fall-soiim, also spring-sown 
 
 {F. and S.); possibly 6 or 8 in Chrysanthemum 
 
 line an(j 4 white on Zinnia line. 
 
 Pansies, fall-sovm ; white and lavender alternating. 
 
 Scabiosa; set 5 or 6 near together in a line in 3 groups, 
 alternating with Snapdragon and Vinca. 
 
 Silene armeria; 1 close line encircling Bluets; later 
 remove Silene and Bluets, giving more space for 
 Zinnias. 
 
 Snapdragon; white, pink; 8 plants. 
 
 Sweet Alyssum, Little Gem; plant in 1 line patches al- 
 ternating with Dianthus. 
 
 Vinca; white. Set a few Vinca plants near together 
 in 3 or 4 spaces behind Pyrethrum line. 
 
 Zinnia; pink; tall variety; 4 or 5 plants, to be the centre 
 background by midsummer; plant just outside 
 the Bluets, which are later removed. 
 
CHART NO. VI 
 
 Round Bed — 14 Feet Diameter 
 
 (t>^Jk■«^, S^lSM^ 
 
 ^avn SI c s (ea*A-i^ 
 
PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. VII 
 
 PINK PREDOMINATING 
 
 Large Square Open Bed — Diameter 20 x 22 Feet 
 Diameter of Inner Circle, 3 Feet 
 
 PERENNIALS 
 
 Agrostemma cor.; 4 clumps of white, 2 of garnet; 
 
 4 or 5 plants to clump. 
 
 Anchusa Italica, Opal; 5 groups; 3 plants to 
 
 group. 
 Chrysanthemum, September-flowering varieties ; 
 
 5 groups, 3 pink, 2 white; 3 plants to group. 
 Columbine; 6 pink to fill 6 spaces. 
 Delphinium Chinense; light blue and white; to 
 
 fill 4 or 5 spaces on two sides of bed; 2 plants 
 
 to space. 
 Delphinium formosum; 3 plants near centre, also 
 
 one D. belladonna near each corner. 
 Feverfew; double white; 10 plants; 2 sets. 
 Foxglove; white, pink; 4 groups; 2 plants to 
 
 group. 
 Gas Plant; white and pink; 3 or 4 groups; 2 
 
 plants, 8 inches apart, to a group. 
 Iris, German; pinkish Queen of May clump at 
 
 each corner; 3 clumps on inner line. 
 
 Iris, Japan; white; 3 or 4 clumps on inner line. 
 Lupin Moerheimi; 6 plants; white, pink. 
 Lupin poly.; white; 7 plants, white. 
 Peony; white, pink; 3 plants. 
 Phlox, late; pink; 3 or 4 large clumps. 
 Phlox, Lingard; 4 or 6 clumps. 
 Poppy, Oriental; pink; 8 large plants. 
 Pyrethrum, hybrid; 10 pink and white plants. 
 Rudbeckia purp.; 4 large plants at comers; 3 
 
 plants, 6 inches apart, to a group. 
 Salvia azurea; 3 or 4 groups; 4 plants to group; 
 
 behind late Phlox. 
 Sedum spec; 4 clumps; 4 comers. 
 Shasta Daisy; 8 groups; 5 plants, 6 inches apart, 
 
 to group. 
 Sweet William; light pink and salmon-pink; 3 
 
 dozen, alternating with Tulips. 
 Tulips, Cottage; selection of pink and white 
 
 varieties; in groups. 
 
 ANNUALS 
 
 Bluets (Corn Flower); white, pink; massed in 
 centre of bed; edged with Silene. 
 
 Candytuft; white, pink; sow a few seeds in 
 patches late April, alternating with Petunia 
 spaces behind Pansy line. 
 
 Canterbiu'y Bells (Campanula medium); pink, 
 white; 15 plants. 
 
 Cosmos; 4 or 5 plants; early white, pink; plant 
 on outskirts of Bluet-Silene patch. 
 
 Geranium; 36 rose-pink, it Impatiens is not ob- 
 tainable. 
 
 Impatiens Sultani; 48 light pink only; it it can- 
 not be had, use pink Geraniums. 
 
 Larkspur; white, lavender, pink; falUaown; 8 
 spaces; 2 or 3 plants to space; spring-sown also 
 desirable. 
 
 Pansy; white, lavender; in a line 3 inches from 
 edge of bed; replaced by Petunia and Verbena. 
 
 Petunia, compact; white, pink; 4 or 5 plants to a 
 space, alternating colors in spaces. 
 
 Scabiosa; groups of 10 plants near together; 
 planted around Canterbury Bells. 
 
 Silene armeria; encircle Silene and Bluet group 
 with a line of string and stakes. 
 
 Snapdragon; white, pink; use if possible 2 dozen 
 in bed. 
 
 ^ erbena, var. Francis; pink; in patches, alter- 
 nating with white Verbena on 2 sides. 
 
 Zinnia; pink, tall variety; in Poppy spaces; 9 
 plants or more in bed. Poppy dies down soon 
 after bloom. 
 
 In climate where season is shorter Pansies may 
 be omitted. 
 
CHART NO. VII 
 
 Large Square Open Bed — 20 x 22 Feet. Diameter Inner Circle, 3 Feet 
 

 
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NOTES PERTAINING TO THE CHARTS 
 
 The bed of perennials in Chart XI, on preceding page, is for the 
 purpose of showing the possibilities in such a planting. However, 
 besides the Petunias, this bed has need of such annuals as Cam- 
 panula medium. Larkspur, Feverfew, and dwarf Zinnia, filling all 
 vacant spaces. 
 
 Charts VIII and IX could hold three Feverfew, fall-sown, also 
 June-sown. 
 
 Chart IX could contain one Anchusa plant in the centre. 
 
 Bear in mind the great value of Larkspur, Feverfew, or Anthemis 
 well distributed over most of the beds. 
 
 In the large beds especially there may be need of an increase in 
 the number of annuals called for, in order that any vacant spaces 
 may be filled. 
 
 Cut back Delphiniums, Phloxes, and Shasta Daisy to bring 
 later bloom and prevent the annuals from going to seed for the 
 same reason. 
 
 For an effective summer planting of annuals in a wall bed sim- 
 ilar to the one in Chart II have, instead of scallops, a line of blue 
 Ageratum at the edge. Behind, a line of white and pink compact 
 Petunia. Further back, three closely set lines of garnet and pink 
 Globe Amaranth. At the rear some early Cosmos. Mingled with 
 these annuals may be planted lines or groups of various periods of 
 perennials. 
 
 Another attractive finish to the front of a bed is made by a line 
 of annual Dianthus at the edge, with two close-set rows of white 
 and pink Vinca behind. 
 
 In the chart lists where the number of plants required is not 
 indicated the gardener may provide enough to fill the spaces, 
 also using his judgment sometimes in having more or less of the 
 quantity specified. 
 
 138 
 
INDEX 
 
INDEX 
 
 Achillea, "The Pearl," 87, 49, 51 
 Achillea tomentosa, ii 
 Aconitum. See Monkshood. 
 Ageratum. 16, 17, 23, 25, 35, 73, 92, 
 
 114, 122, 124, 128, 136, 138 
 Agrostemma, 16, 27, 49, 51, 124, 132 
 Akebia qiiintata, 93 
 Alternation of periods, 1, 12 
 Alyssum, Sweet. See Sweet Alyssum 
 Anchusa, 7, 20, 27, 48, 52, 120, 122, 
 
 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 
 Anemone Japonica, 26, 50, 52, 122, 
 
 126, 137 
 Annuals, classified, 29-38 
 " as edgings, 21, 138 
 " fall-sown and spring-sown, 
 
 7, 8, 9, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37 
 Annuals, frame space not necessary 
 
 for certain, 33 
 Annuals, garden without, 3 
 " in perennial bed, 4 
 " transplanting, 40, 41, 42, 
 
 43, 112 
 Annuals, not easily transplanted, 33, 
 
 35 
 Annuals, soil for, 114 
 
 " start under glass, 35, 42 
 
 tender, 35, 42 
 " wintering hardy, 44, 45 
 Anthemis, 8, 29, 40, 49, 52, 115, 122, 
 
 138 
 Antirrhinum. See Snapdragon 
 Aquilegia. See Columbine 
 Arabis, 47, 53, 97 
 Arbor Vitse, 112 
 Armeria, 22 
 Aster, China, annual, 35, 38, 74 
 
 " perennial, 7, 28, 50, 53, 122. 
 
 124, 137 
 
 Aster, large-flowering. See Chrys- 
 anthemum, h. p. 
 
 Aster, New England. See perennial 
 Aster 
 
 Aster, Novae Anglise. See perennial 
 Aster 
 
 Azalea, 114 
 
 Bachelor's-button. See Ranuncu- 
 lus 
 
 Balloon Flower. See Platycodon 
 
 Balsam, 35, 38, 74 
 
 Bed space, 13, 14, 15, 20, 21, 119, 138 
 
 Beds, narrow, 24 
 " open, 13, 16, 19 
 " round, 15, 16, 17 
 " square, 15, 16 
 
 wall, 13, 18, 19, 20, 21, 97, 138 
 
 Begonia, 8, 17, 23, 35, 75, 98, 114 
 
 Bellflower, Japanese. See Platyco- 
 don 
 
 Bellis perennis. See English Daisy 
 
 Blanket-flower. See Gaillardia 
 
 Bleeding Heart, 47, 97 
 
 Blood, dry, 106 
 
 Bloom, mnler, in flower-bowl, 106 
 " periods of, 1, 2, 46 
 " well-balanced, 2, 12 
 
 Bluebells. See Mertensia 
 
 Bluets, 15, 16, 29, 40, 41, 48, 77, 97. 
 130, 132, 134 
 
 Boxwood, 114 
 
 Brachycome, 24, 75, 114 
 
 Bulbs, 91, 114 
 
 Butterfly Flower. See Schizanthus 
 
 Calendula, 10, 11, 17, 32, 75, 122, 136 
 California Poppy. See Eschscholt- 
 
 [141 
 
INDEX 
 
 Calliopsis, 10, 11, 17, 23, 32, 76, 98, 
 
 122, 124, 136 
 Callistephus Chinensis. See China 
 
 Aster 
 Camomile, double. See Feverfew 
 Campanula calycanthema, 53, 76 
 " Carpatica, 22 
 
 medium, 8, 16, 20, 25, 
 
 28, 29, 31, 39, 42, 44, 48, 53, 76, 
 
 115, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 
 
 134, 135, 137, 138 
 Campanula persicifolia, 27, 48, 54, 
 
 124, 130, 134 
 Campion, Rose. See Agrostemma 
 Candytuft, annual, 9, 24, 32, 38, 49, 
 
 76, 124, 132 
 Candytuft, perennial, 47, 54, 97 
 Canna, 20, 50, 54, 91 
 Canterbury Bell. See Campanula 
 
 medium 
 Catchfly. See Silene 
 Celosia plumosa, 35, 78 
 
 " spicata, 36, 78 
 Centaiu-ea, Cyanus. See Bluets 
 
 " moschata, 77 
 
 Chrysanthemum, h. p., 16, 25, 36, 50, 
 
 54, 98, 122, 124, 126, 130, 1.'32 1.35, 
 
 137 
 Chrysanthemum, Burridgeanum. 
 
 See Painted Daisy 
 Chrysanthemum coccineum. See 
 
 Pyrethrum, hybrid 
 Chrysanthemum coronarium. See 
 
 Painted Daisy 
 Chrysanthemum, frutescens, 78 
 
 " maximum. See 
 
 Shasta Daisy 
 Chrysanthemum uliginosum. See 
 
 Pyrethrum uliginosum 
 City yard, 92 
 Clarkia, 36, 78 
 f ^eome, 9, 20, 35, 38, 78 
 Clump, number small plants to a, 6, 
 
 21, 51 
 Cockscomb. See Celosia 
 Color, 99 
 
 " in mass, 99 
 
 ' standard, 100 
 
 Columbine, 7, 26, 48, 55, 97 
 
 Coneflower. See Budbeckia pur- 
 purea 
 
 Conoclinum coelestinum. See Eupa- 
 torium coelestinum 
 
 Coreopsis, annual. See Calliopsis 
 lanceolata, 27, 49, 56, 
 124 
 
 Corn Flower. See Bluets 
 
 Cosmos, early, 15, 19, 21, 33, 79, 120, 
 124, 132 
 
 Court, outer, 98 
 
 Daffodils, 92, 96 
 
 Dahlia, 21, 50, 56, 91, 122, 137 
 
 Daisy, English, 16, 30, 31, 38, 41, 47, 
 79, 96, 126, 128 
 
 Daisy, Giant. See Pyrethrum uligi- 
 nosum 
 
 Daisy, Michaelmas. See Aster, per- 
 ennial 
 
 Daisy, Painted, 10, 11, 35, 77 
 
 " Paris. See Chrysanthemum 
 frutescens 
 
 Daisy, Shasta. See Shasta Daisy 
 
 Delphinium, 7, 16, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27, 
 49, 56, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 
 37 
 
 Delphinium Chinense, 27, 56, 120, 
 122, 124, 126, 132, 137 
 
 Dianthus barbatus. See Sweet Wil- 
 liam 
 
 Dianthus Chinensis, 23, 30, 41, 42, 
 79, 122, 130, 136, 138 
 
 Dictamnus. See Gas Plant 
 
 Digitalis. See Foxglove 
 
 Doronicum, 47, 97 
 
 Dusty Miller. See Agrostemma 
 
 Echinops, 50, 57, 124, 137 
 Enrichment of soil, 44 
 Eryngium, 50, 67 
 Eschscholtzia, 10, 32, 80, 122 
 Eupatorium coelestinum, 28, 50, 58, 
 
 122, 124, 137 
 Euphorbia. See Snow-on-the-Moun- 
 
 tain 
 Evening Primrose. See (Enothera 
 
 [ 142] 
 
INDEX 
 
 Fall garden, spring and, 98 
 
 False Dragonhead. See Physoste- 
 
 gia 
 Feverfew, 8, 29, 30, 31, 40, 49, 58, 80, 
 
 115, 120. 122, 126, 130, 138 
 Fleur-de-lis. See Iris 
 Floss Flower. See Ageratum 
 Forget-me-not, 22, 29, 30, 31. 40, 41, 
 
 47,58,80,96 
 Foxglove, 7, 21, 27, 49, 59, 120, 130, 
 
 132, 137 
 Frames, 7, 8, 32, 33, 35, 45 
 Fraxinella. See Gas Plant 
 Fuchsia, 80, 111 
 
 Gaillardia, annual, 10, 11, 33, 81 
 
 perennial, 7, 27, 49, 59 
 Garden Heliotrope. See Valerian 
 Gas Plant, 7, 28, 48, 59, 120, 124. 
 
 126, 130, 132 
 General Hints, 112 
 Geranium, 132, 136 
 Gladioli, 36, 49, 50, 91, 98, 106, 137 
 Globe Amaranth, 33, 81, 138 
 Globe Thistle. See Echinops 
 Godetia, 36, 81 
 
 Gomphrena. See Globe Amaranth 
 Gypsophila paniculata, 27, 50, 60 
 
 Heartsease. See Pansy 
 Helenium, 27, 50, 60, 122 
 Helianthus. See Sunflower 
 Heliotrope, 8, 16, 17, 25, 35, 81, 111, 
 
 122, 124, 128, 130, 134 
 Heliotrope, Garden. See Valerian 
 Hemerocallis. See Lily, lemon 
 Hesperis. See Rocket, Sweet 
 HoUyhock, 7, 21, 27, 49, 60, 114, 120, 
 
 122, 124, 137 
 Hyacinth, 47 
 
 Iberis semper virens. See Candy- 
 tuft, h. p. 
 
 Iberis umbellata. See Candytuft, 
 h. a. 
 
 Impatiens, balsaminea. See Balsam 
 Sultani pink, 25, 35, 82, 
 114, 132 
 
 Iris Germanica, 28, 39, 46, 49, 61, 97. 
 
 122, 124, 130, 182, 137 
 Iris, Japanese, 28, 61, 124, 132, 137 
 
 Lady Slipper. See Balsam 
 
 Lady's Eardrop. See Fuchsia 
 
 Lantana, 82, 114 
 
 Larkspur, 8, 20, 25, 29, 31, 36, 41, 49. 
 82, 98, 113, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 
 132, 134, 135, 138 
 
 Larkspur, perennial. See Delphin- 
 ium 
 
 Laurel, 114 
 
 Lavatera, 10, 33, 38, 83 
 
 Liatris, 61 
 
 Lilac, 110 
 
 Lilium, auratum, 61 
 
 " candidum, 20, 25, 26, 39, 49. 
 62, 128, 135 
 
 Lilium speciosum, 62 
 
 Lily, Annunciation. See L. candi- 
 dum 
 
 Lily, Gold-banded. See Auratum 
 " Japanese. See Auratum 
 " Lemon, 28, 48, 60 
 " Madonna. See L. candidum 
 
 Lines, plants in, 1, 2, 12 
 
 Lobelia, 35, 83, 114 
 
 Lupin, annual, 10, 33, 38, 49, 83, 96 
 perennial, 7, 15, 21, 25, 26, 
 27, 40, 48, 62, 97, 111, 120, 122, 
 124, 126, 130, 132, 135, 137 
 
 Lupins vs. Gas Plants, 111 
 
 Lychnis, Chalcedonica, 27, 49, 63 
 " coronaria. See Agrostemma 
 
 Madwort. See Sweet Alyssum 
 Mallow. See Lavatera 
 Maltese Cross. See Lychnis Chal- 
 cedonica 
 Marguerite, white. See Chrysan- 
 themum frutescens 
 Marguerite, yellow. See Anthemis 
 Marigold, African, 15, 33, 84, 122 
 
 Pot. See Calendula 
 Markers, permanent. 111 
 Matricaria. See Feverfew 
 Meadow Sage. See Salvia pratensis 
 
 [143] 
 
INDEX 
 
 Mertensia, 47, 63, 97 
 
 Michaelmas Daisy. See Aster, h. p. 
 
 Mistflower. See Eupatorium ccB- 
 
 lestinum 
 Monkshood, 21, 26, 50, 64, 98, 120, 
 
 122, 124, 126, 137 
 Mullein Pink. See Agrostemma 
 My Garden, 94 
 Myosotis. See Forget-me-not 
 
 Nasturtium, 9, 11, 33, 84 
 Nicotiana, 33, 84, 94, 120 
 Nursery, sowing in the, 5, 7, 8, 10, 
 31, 32, 35 
 
 Obedience. See Physostegia 
 QEnothera, 7, 27, 48, 64, 122, 124 
 
 Pansy, 11, 16, 17, 18, 23, 24, 25, 30, 
 41, 47, 84, 92, 113, 120, 122, 124, 
 128, 130, 132, 134, 135, 136 
 Peach-bells. See Campanula persi- 
 
 cifolia 
 Peony, 7, 21, 28, 39, 48, 65, 101, 109, 
 
 132 
 Perennial*, classified, 26-28 
 
 " as edging, annuals !'.?., 21 
 
 long-lived, 26-28 
 only, bed of, 4 
 precaution in beds, 110 
 " seeds not obtainable, 27 
 
 short-lived, 26, 27 
 sowing of, 5, 26, 28 
 wintering, 44 
 Periods of bloom, 1, 2, 46 
 fewer in north, 47 
 Petunia, 16, 17, 23, 25, 33, 85, 92, 98, 
 115, 122, 126, 128, 132, 134, 135, 
 136, 137 
 Phlox, divaricata, 4.7, 65, 97 
 " Drummondi, 85 
 " Miss Lingard, 28, 49, 65, 132 
 " paniculata, 7, 20, 28, 50, 66, 
 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 
 Phlox subulata, 47, 96 
 Physostegia. 66 
 Pinks, Clove, 22 
 Planting, close, 23, 119 
 
 Plants, by purchase, 6 
 
 " in lines, 12 
 
 " " clumps, number of. See 
 
 Clump 
 Platycodon, 7, 26, 49, 66, 124, 130 
 Plumbago, 22 
 
 Poppy, California. SeeEschscholtzia 
 Poppy, Oriental, 7, 20, 21, 26, 39, 48. 
 
 67, 97, 122, 124, 132, 137 
 Poppy, Shirley, 9, 29, 30, 38, 41, 86, 
 
 101 
 Portulaca, 11, 33, 86 
 Primrose, evening. See CEnothera 
 
 spring, 47, 67, 96 
 Privet, 112 
 
 Purchase, plants by, 6 
 Pyrethrum, hybrid, 7, 26, 48, 67, 97, 
 
 120, 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 
 Pyrethrum uliginosum, 60, 68 
 
 Ranunculus acris, 48, 68 
 
 Rhododendron, 114 
 
 Rock Cress. See Arabis 
 
 Rocket, Sweet, 27, 48, 68, 124 
 
 Rose Campion. See Agrostemma 
 
 Rose Garden, 104 
 
 Rudbeckia purpurea, 27, 60, 68, 132. 
 
 137 
 Rule in gardening, first, 108 
 
 Sage, annual. See Salvia farinacea 
 " Meadow. See Salvias 
 " Pitcher's. See Salvia aziu-ea 
 
 Salpiglossis, 16, 25, 35, 38, 87, 120, 
 134, 135 
 
 Salvia, azurea, 7, 26, 60, 69, 124, 132 
 " farinacea, 33, 87 
 " pratensis, 26, 48, 69 
 
 Santolina, 22, 69 
 
 Sanvitalia, 24, 87, 114, 122, 136 
 
 Scabiosa, 16, 18, 35, 36, 87, 120, 130, 
 132. 134 
 
 Scalloped edge, 23, 123, 136 
 
 Schizanthus, 36. 88, 114 
 
 Sea Bugloss. See Anchusa 
 
 Sea HoUy. See Eryngium 
 
 Sedum spectabile, 7, 28, 50. 70. 13* 
 
 Self-sown plants, 10, 29, 41 
 
 [ 144 
 
INDEX 
 
 Shasta Daisy, 26;27,"49;.70, 128, 124, 
 
 126, 132. 137 
 SUene armeria, 16, 29, 38, 40, 41, 48, 
 
 88, 97, 115, 120, 130, 132, 134 
 Slug-shot, 106 
 Snapdragon, 8, 16, 18, 25, 30, 31, 41, 
 
 88, 98, 130, 132, 134, 135 
 Sneezeweed. See Helenium 
 Sneezewort, double. See Achillea 
 Snow-on-the-Mountain, 89, 114 
 Soil, 113, 114; enrichment of, 44 
 Soot, Scotch, 106 
 Space between plants, 20, 21, 138 
 Speedwell. See Veronica 
 Spider Flower. See Cleome 
 Spring garden, 46, 47, 95 
 Spring and fall garden, 98 
 Staking, 43, 109. 119 
 Standard, plants. 111 
 Roses, 105 
 Starwort. See Aster 
 Statice, 7, 27, 50, 70 
 Sunflower, 19. 21, 89, 122 
 Sweet Alyssum, 10, 11, 17, 20, 23, 24, 
 
 30, 32, 49, 73, 120, 122, 124, 126, 
 
 130, 136 
 Sweet William, 16, 18, 25, 27, 48, 71, 
 
 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 135, 137 
 
 Tagetes, erecta. See Marigold 
 
 signata pumila, 33, 89, 122 
 Thistle,' Globe. See Echinops 
 
 Tickseed. See Coreopsis 
 Tobacco Plant. See Nicotian* 
 Torema, 35, 89, 92, 114 
 Touch-me-not. See Impatiens Sul- 
 
 tani 
 Transplanting, 9, 40, 41, 43 
 Trees in gardens, 102 
 Tulip, early, 24, 46, 47, 91, 135 
 Tulip, late, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25. 
 
 46, 47, 91, 120, 124, 126, 128, 130. 
 
 132, 134, 135, 137 
 
 Valerian officinalis, 27. 48, 71, 97, 
 
 124 
 Verbena, 16, 17, 23, 35, 90, 98, 114, 
 
 132, 136 
 Veronica, 28, 50, 71 
 Vinca, 35, 90, 114, 130, 138 
 Viola cornuta, 22, 29, 72, 92, 97 
 Vitis heterophylla, 93 
 
 WaU beds, 13, 18, 20, 21, 97 
 What, when, where, 2, 3 
 Winter bloom in flower-bowl, 106 
 Wintering hardy annuals, 44, 45 
 Wintering perennials and annuals, 44 
 Wistaria, 92, 111, 113 
 
 Zinnia, 15, 18, 20, 25, 33, 90, 115. 
 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 134, 135. 
 137. 138 
 
 [145]