#'■ 
 
 
CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
Cornell University 
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 The original of tliis book is in 
 tlie Cornell University Library. 
 
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 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924098819588 
 
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CORNELL 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
PARIS 
 
PARI S 
 
 BY 
 
 AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE 
 
 AUTHOR OF 
 
 'walks in LONDON* ' WALKS IN ROME* ' DAYS NEAR PARIS ' 
 
 ETC. 
 
 • ©uacumque iugre&imur, in aliqiiam bistoiiam vesfigium ponfmuB ' 
 
 Cicero de Fin. v. 
 
 LONDON 
 SMITH, ELDEE, & CO., 15 WATERLOO PLACE 
 
 1887 
 
 \_All rights reserved.} 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 A BETTER book than this might easily have been published, 
 but no one else has tried to write anything of the kind, and 
 I have done my best. This volume and ' Days near Paris ' 
 have been the conscientious hard work of two years. As in 
 my ' Cities of Italy,' the descriptions are my own, but, for 
 opinions and comments, I have quoted from others, choos- 
 ing those passages which seem pleasant to read upon the 
 spot, and likely to impress what is seen upon the recollec- 
 tion. The woodcuts, with very few exceptions, are from 
 my own sketches, transferred to wood by Mr. T. Sulman. 
 
 Augustus J. C. Hare. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTORY i 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE TUILERIES AND THE LOUVRE . . , , . l8 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 IN OLD PARIS — FROM THE RUE S. HONORfi TO THE QUARTIER 
 
 DES HALLES AND QUARTIER DU TEMPL=E .... I05 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE MARAIS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE h6tEL DE VILLE 1 62 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 THE FAUBOURG S. ANTOINE AND pfeRE LACHAISE . . . 238 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE ISLANDS IN THE SEINE . . . . . . . 255 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 CHIEFLY IN THE FAUBOURG S. MARCEL 318 
 
viii CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PAGE 
 THE UNIVERSXTY— LE QUARTIER LATIN 339 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE FAUBOURG S. GERMAIN 393 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 LUXURIOUS MODERN PARIS 445 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 INDUSTRIOUS MODERN PARIS 482 
 
 INDEX 527 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 ALMOST all educated Englishmen visit Paris some time 
 in their lives, yet few really see it. They stay at the 
 great neighbouring capital to enjoy its shops and theatres 
 and to drive in the Bois de Boulogne, and they describe it 
 as a charming modern city, from which the picturesqueness 
 of an historic past has been utterly obliterated. But, whilst 
 it is true that much has perished, those who take the trouble 
 to examine will be surprised to find how many remnants of 
 past times' still exist, more interesting than those in any pro- 
 vincial town, because the history of France, more especially 
 of modern France, is so completely centred in its capital. 
 
 ' C'est k Paris et k Versailles, son royal faubourg, que se fait 
 rhistoire de France, k partir de Louis XIII. Paris rayonne sur la 
 France et I'absorbe. Tous les m6noires, toutes les relatioiis parlent 
 de Paris.' — Albert Baheau. 
 
 ' La France est aujourd'hui le pays du monde ovi la capitale 
 presente I'aspect le plus diff&ent du reste de la nation. En face de 
 trentecinq millions de provinciaux se dresse une ville, ou plutot un 
 petit etat, sup6rieur, par sa population, k la Gr^ce, k la Serbie, au 
 Danemark, i la Norw^ge et quelques autres royaumes plus ou moins 
 constitutionnels. Cette republique, enclavee dans la grande, est 
 representee par une assemblee agres^ve qui reclame tous les jours une 
 autonomie plus complete. EUe se vante d'etre cosmopolite, et ne 
 desesp^re pas de rompre un jour quelques-uns des liens qui subordon- 
 nent son sort a celui de la patrie. Combattue par les lois, sa pre- 
 ponderance a ete longtemps favorisee par la politique. Apres avoir 
 
 B 
 
2 PARIS 
 
 impose trois ou quatre revolutions i la province, elle ne peut se 
 consoler d'avoir perdu ce privilege. Tous les ans, un parti puissant 
 cel^bre I'anniversaire du jour oil ce petit Etat, exasper^ par un si^ge 
 de quatre mois, a tourne ses armes contra la volonte nationale. Les 
 mceurs elles-memes semblent perp^tuer des causes de mesintelli- 
 gence entre ces deux fractions inegales du pays. En vain la popula- 
 tion de la capitale est sans cesse renouvelee .par des elements pro- 
 vinciaux, au point que sur dix Parisiens, il y en a au moins cinq dont 
 la famille a une autre origine. II semble qu'en respirant I'air de Paris, 
 le m^me individu change de caract^re et de langage. II s'empresse 
 d'oublier ses anciennes attaches. II croit echapper i la tyrannie des 
 incidents mesquins et contradictoires ; il se jette i corps perdu dans le 
 monde des idees g^n^rales. Paris est le sol beni des abstractions. On 
 y juge de tout par principes. On y cueille la fleur de la civilisation 
 sans se preoccuper de la tige et des racines. Paris nous yaut notre 
 reputation de gens a th&ries et k maximes humanitaires. 
 
 ' A force de manier des id^es plut6t que des faits, la capitale 
 aper9oit le reste de la France de loin, de haut, et sous une forme 
 abstraite. Le spectateur, attentif au drame qui se joue sur le devant 
 de la scfene, distingue a peine, au fond du theatre, une foule confuse, 
 qu'il designe par I'expression commode et vague de "masses pro- 
 fondes ; " c'est-k-dire une poussi^re d'individus, un amas de ces 
 monades dont park Leibnitz.' — Jieni Belloc, 'Revue des Deux- 
 Mondes,'' Ixx. 
 
 Peter the Great said of Paris that if he possessed such 
 a town he should be tempted to burn it down, for fear it 
 should absorb the rest of his empire ; and the hearts of all 
 Frenchmen, and still more of all Frenchwomen, turn to 
 their capital as the wished-for, the most desirable of resi- 
 dences, the most beautiful of cities, the intellectual, com- 
 mercial, and political centre of their country. 
 
 ' Francigenae princeps populosa Lutetia gentis 
 
 Exerit immensum clara sub astra caput. 
 Hie cujus numerum, ars pretium, sapientia finem 
 
 Exuperant, superant thura precesque Deos. 
 Audiit obstupuitque hospes, factusque viator 
 Vidit, et haud oculis credidit ipse suis.' 
 
 Julius Caesar Scaliger. 
 
ATTRACTION OF PARIS 3 
 
 Long ago Charles V. declared ' Liitetia non urbs, sed, 
 orbis,' and now Paris covers an area of thirty square miles, 
 and is the most cosmopolitan town in Europe, the city to 
 which members of every nationality are most wont to resort, 
 for interest, instruction, and most of all for pleasure. 
 
 ' J'ai voulu voir Paris ; les fastes de I'histoire 
 Celfebrent ses plaisirs, et consacrent sa gloire,' ' 
 
 is an impulse which every day brings throngs of strangers to 
 its walls. To most of these the change from their ordinary 
 life, which is to be found in the ' distraction ' of Paris, forms 
 its chief charm, and Londoners delight in the excess of its 
 contrast to all they are accustomed to. But to Frenchmen 
 Paris is far more than this : the whole country looks to it 
 as the mother-city, whilst those who have been brought up 
 there can seldom endure a long separation from it. 
 
 ' Paris a mon coeur d^s mon enfance ; et m'en est advenu comme 
 des choses excellentes ; plus i'ay veu, depuis, d'autres villas belles, 
 plus la beauty de celte-cy peult et gaigne sur mon affection ; ie I'aime 
 tendreraent, jusques i ses verrues et a ses taches.' — Montaigne, 
 
 ' Oil trouver une ville qui ait une physionomie a la fois plus 
 "vivante et plus caracteristique, plus i elle, mieux faite pour tenter le 
 pinceau, la plume, pour amercer Ie r^ve ou piquer la curiosite. 
 
 ' Paris vit, Paris a un visage, des gestes, des habitudes, des tics, 
 des manies. Paris, quand on le connalt, n'est pas une ville, c'est un 
 etre anime, une personne naturelle, qui a ses moments de fureur, de 
 folie, de bStise, d'enthousiasme, d'honnetet^ et de lucidity ; comme un 
 homme qui est parfois charmant et parfois insupportable, mais jamais 
 indifferent. 
 
 ' On I'aime ou on I'execre ; il attache ou il repousse, mais il ne 
 laisse personne froid. ' — D^ Hirisson. 
 
 ' La voi\k done, me disais-je, cette ville qui depuis des sifecles sert 
 de module i I'Europe pour la mode et le gout ; cette ville dont le nom 
 est prononc^ avec veneration dans toutes les parties du monde par les 
 savants et les ignorants, par les philosophes et les petits-mattres, par 
 les artistes et mSme par les flaneurs ; nom que je connus presque 
 ^ Voltaire. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 PARIS 
 
 aussitSt que mon propre nom, que je retrouve dans d'innombrables 
 romans, dans la bouche des voyageurs, dans mes r6ves et dans mes 
 pens^es. Voici Paris, et j'y suis ! Ah 1 mes amis, ce fut la le 
 moment le plus fortun^ de ma vie. Rien n'egale les vives sensations 
 de curiosite et d'impatience que j'eprouvai alors.' — Karamsine. 
 
 ' Tous y trouvent ce qu'ils itaient venus chercher, et c'est du choc 
 de tous les interets, c'est du contact de toutes les industries, de nom- 
 breux talents dans miUe branches diverscs, de toutes les imaginations 
 appliquees au travail, aux recherches de tout genre, que naissent cette 
 activity, ce mouvement continuel de fabrication, les prodiges de I'art 
 et de la science, ces ameliorations journalieres, ces conceptions 
 savantes et ingenieuses ; ces decouvertes surprenantes, enfin ces admir- 
 ables merveilles qui saisissent, etonnent, captivent et font generale- 
 ment consid^rer Paris comme sans ^gal dans I'univers.' — Balzac, 
 ^ Esquisses ParisiennesJ' 
 
 However long a stay be made in Paris, there will always 
 remain something to be discovered. All tastes may be 
 satisfied, all pleasures satiated, and to the lovers of historic 
 reminiscence its interest is absolutely inexhaustible. 
 
 ' Paris est un veritable oc&n. Jetez-y la sonde, vous n'en con- 
 naitrer jamais la profondeur. Parcourez-le, decrivez-Ie, quelque soin 
 que vous mettiez i le parcourir, i le decrire, quelque nombreux et 
 interesses que soient les explorateurs de cette mer, il s'y rencontrera 
 toujours un lieu vierge, un autre inconnu, des fleurs, des perles, des 
 monstres, quelque chose d'inouii, oubli^ par les plongeurs litteraires. ' — 
 Balzac, ' Le Pire Goriot. ' 
 
 ' Notre etrange Paris, dans sa population et jSes- aspects, semble une 
 carte d'echantillon du monde entier. On trouve dans le Marais des rues 
 ^troites i vieilles portes brodees, vermiculees, i pignons avangants, a 
 balcons en raoucharabies qui vous font penser k I'antique Heidelberg. 
 Le faubourg Saint-Honore dans sa partie large autour de I'eglise nisse 
 aux minarets bUncs, aux boules d'or, evoque un quartier de Moscou. 
 Sur Montmartre je sais un coin pittoresque et encombr^ qui est I'Al- 
 ger pur. Des petits hotels bas et nets, derriJre leur entrie a plaque 
 de cuivre et leur jardin particulier, s'alignent en rues anglaises entre 
 TSTeuilly et es Champs-Elysees ; tandis que tout le chevet de Saint- 
 Sulpice, a rue P'eron, la rue Cassette, paisibles dans I'ombre des 
 grosses . tours, in^galement pavees, aux portes k marteau, semblent 
 detach^es d une ville provinciale et religieuse ; Tours ou Orleans par 
 
PLEASURES OF PARISIAN LIFE 5 
 
 exemple, oi de grands arbres depassant les niurs se bercent au bruit 
 des cloches et des r^pons.' — Daudet, ' Le Nahab.' 
 
 ' Ce que c'est que Paris ? II n'y eut jamais un homme qui pflt 
 r^pondre k cette question. Quand j'aurois les cent bouches, les cent 
 langues, et la voix de fer, dont parlent Honifere et Virgile, je ne pour- 
 rois pas compter la moitie de ses vertus, de ses vices, ni de ses ridicules. 
 Ce que c'est que Paris ? C'est un assemblage de contradictions, un tissu 
 d'horreurs et de delices, les unes et les autres rendues plus saillantes 
 par leur proximite. C'est un pays plein d'etourderie et de profondeur, 
 d'une grande simplicity et de pretentions outrees. Les contrastes ne 
 finiroient jamais.' — Sherlock, 1781. ' 
 
 There are many points in Paris, inany facts and phases 
 of Parisian life, which interest strangers, whilst they pass 
 unnoticed by those who Hve amongst them, for differences 
 always excite more attention than similitudes, and no one 
 thinks it worth while to describe what he sees every day 
 — manners, customs, or, appearances with which he has 
 been familiar from childhood. To a foreigner, especially 
 to one who has never left his own country before, half an 
 hour spent on the boulevards or on one of the chairs in the 
 Tuileries gardens has the effect of an infinitely diverting 
 theatrical performance, whilst, even to a cursory observer, 
 it will seem as if the great object of French men and women 
 in every class were to make life as easy and pleasant as pos- 
 sible—to ignore its present and to forget its past troubles as 
 much as they can. 
 
 ' Dans aucun pays et dans aucun si^cle, un art social si parfait n'a 
 rendu la vie si agreable. Paris est I'^cole de I'Europe, une fcole 
 d'urbauite, oil, de Russie, d'AUemagne, d'Angleterre, les jeunes gens 
 viennent se degrossir, Quand on a connu ces salons, on ne les quitte 
 plus, ou, si on est oblig^ de les quitter, on les regrette toujours. " Rien 
 n'est comparable,'' dit Voltaire, " a la douce vie qu'on y mene au sein 
 des arts et d'une volupte tranquille et delicate ; des etrangers, des rois 
 ont prefere ce repos si agr&blement occup^ et si enchanteur i leur 
 
 ' The first edition of Sherlock's Lettres d'tm Voya^ettr anglais^ 1781, was pub- 
 lished in French. 
 
6 PARIS 
 
 patrie et a leur trone. . . . Le cceur s'y amollit et s'y dissout, comme 
 les aromates se fondent doucement h. un feu mod^r^ et exhalent un 
 parfum d^icieux." ' — Taine, ' Origines de la France Conte/nporaine.'' 
 
 ' There is nothing wanting to the character of a Frenchman that 
 belongs to that of an agreeable and worthy man. There are only some 
 trifles surplus, or which might be spared.' — Hen. Franklin. 
 
 On the rare occasions when a Frenchman, destined by 
 
 his nature to be gay and animated, allows himself to be 
 
 conquered by depression, he is indeed to be pitied. 
 
 ' Que je plains un franfois, quand il est sans gaiet^ ; 
 Loin de son element le pauvre homme est jett^.' — Voltaire. 
 
 Pleasure at Paris becomes business ; indeed, a large portion 
 of the upper classes of Parisians have no time for anything 
 else. 
 
 ' Ici a Paris je ne m'appartiens plus, j'ai ^ peine le temps de causer 
 avec roon mari et de suivre roes correspondances. Je ne sais comment 
 font les femmes dont c'est la vie habituelle ; elles n'ont done ni famille 
 a entretenir, ni enfants \ Clever.' — Marie d' Oberkirk. 
 
 An Englishman may learn many a lesson in outward 
 forms of politeness on the public promenades of Paris, for 
 the rules of good manners which were so rigidly inculcated 
 by Louis XIV. bear their fruit still ; and if outward de- 
 meanour could be received as a sign of inner cha- 
 racter, Parisians would be the most delightful people in 
 the world. Sometimes the grandiloqiience of expressions 
 used about trifles will strike the hearer with amusement — 
 ' Comment Madame veut-elle que sa robe soit organisde ? ' 
 is an ordinary inquiry of a dress-maker from her lady- 
 employer. 
 
 In all classes the routine of life is simplified, and made 
 easier than with us. This is partly owing to all the apart- 
 ments of a residence being usually on the same level. The 
 letting-out of the houses at Paris in different floors is a com- 
 
NOMENCLATURE OF PARIS 7 
 
 fortable arrangement which Londoners may well envy. Often 
 each house, as Alphonse Karr says, becomes hke a mountain 
 inhabited from the valley to the summit, in which you may 
 study the differences of manners and habits which have 
 existed from all time between lowlanders and highlanders. 
 
 Confined to the island of La Citd in its early existence, 
 Paris has gone on spreading through centuries, swallowing 
 up fields, forests, villages. The history of its gradual in- 
 crease is written in the names of its streets. One may 
 almost trace the limits of the boundary of Paris under 
 Philippe-Auguste or Charles V. in following the Rues 
 des Foss^s-S. -Bernard, des Fossds-S.-Victor, des Fossds- 
 S.-Marcel, de la Contrescarpe-S.-Marcel, des Foss^s- 
 S. -Jacques, des Foss6s-Monsieur-le-Prince, de la Con- 
 trescarpe-Dauphine, des Foss^s-S.-Germain-1'Auxerrois, des 
 Fosses- Montmartre, des Fossds-du-Temple, du Rempart, &c. 
 
 Of other streets, many take their names from churches 
 and chapels ; some (as des Grands Augustins, des Blancs 
 Manteaux, des Mathurins, Petits-Peres, Rdcollets, &c.) from 
 convents ; some (as Filles-du-Calvaire, Filles-S.-Thomas, 
 Nonnains d'Yferes, Ursulines) from monasteries ; the streets 
 of S. Anne, Bellefond and Rochechouart from three 
 Abbesses of Montmartre. A number of streets are named 
 from hotels of nobles, as d'Antin, de Duras, Garanciere, 
 Lesdiguiferes, de Rohan, du Roi de Sicile; others from 
 nobles themselves, as Ventadour, de Choiseul, de Gram- 
 mont, &c. In the Marais many of the streets are named 
 from the palace of the Hotel de S. Paul and its surroun- 
 dings, as the Rue du Figuier-S.-Paul, from its fig-garden ; 
 BeautreiUis, from its berceau of vines; Cerisaie, from its 
 cherry-orchard ; Lions-S.-Paul, from its menagerie. A vast 
 
8 PARIS 
 
 number of streets are named from bourgeois inhabitants, 
 as Coquillifere, Geoffroy-Lasnier, Git-le-Coeur (Gilles le 
 Queux), Simon-le-Franc (Franque) ; others from tradesmen, 
 as Aubry-le-Boucher, Tiquetonne, &c. ; others from muni- 
 cipal officers, as Mercier, Thdvenot, &c. ; others from officers 
 of Parliament, as Bailleul, Meslay, Popincourt, &c. Still 
 greater in number are the streets named from the, signboards 
 which formerly hung over the shops, as de FArbalfete, de 
 I'Arbre Sec, du Chaudron, du Coq-Hdron, du Coq-S.-Jean, 
 des Deux-Ecus, de I'Hirondelle, des Ciseaux, du Sabot, du 
 Cherche-Midi, &c. Many streets take names from history 
 or legends, as the Rue Pierre-Levee, where a menhir is 
 believed to have stood; the Rue des Martyrs, by which 
 SS. Denis, Rusticus, and Eleutherius are supposed to have 
 gone to their death at Montmartre ; the Rue des Frondeurs, 
 where the barricades of the Fronde were begun ; the Rue 
 des Francs-Bourgeois, of which the inhabitants were free 
 from taxation. The Rue de I'Enfer, formerly Rue Inferieur, 
 had its name corrupted in the reign of S. Louis, when the 
 devil was supposed to haunt the Chateau de Vauvert. The 
 evil character of their inhabitants gave a name to such 
 streets as the Rue Mauvais-Gargons, Mauconseil, Vide- 
 Gousset, &c. In the more modern Paris a vast number of 
 streets are named from eminent men, as Bossuet, Corneille, 
 Casimir-Delavigne, d'Aguesseau, Richelieu, Montaigne, &c. ; 
 and some from victories, as Rivoli, des Pyramides; Cas- 
 tiglione, d' Alger, &c. 
 
 As in London, fashionable life has moved constantly 
 from one quarter to another, and constantly westwards. 
 
 ' La vie de Paris, sa physiognomie, a et^, en 1500, rue .Saint 
 Antoine ; en 1600 h. la Place Royale ; en 1700, au Pont Neuf; 
 
RELIGION AT PARIS 9 
 
 en 1800, au Palais Royal. Tous ces endroits ont ^t^ tour k tour 
 les boulevards ! La terre a ^t^ passionn^e Ik, comme I'asphalte I'est 
 aujourd'hui sous les pieds des boursiers, au perron de Tortoni. . . . 
 Ces displacements. de la vie parisienne s'expliquent. En 1580, la cour 
 ^tait au chateau des Tournelles, sous la protection de la Bastille. En 
 1600, I'aristocratie demeuvait i la fameuse Place Royale, chantee par 
 Corneille, comme quelque jour on chantera les boulevards.' — Bahac, 
 ' Esquisses Parisiennes, ' 
 
 The suppression of the religious orders, who once 
 occupied a third of the area of the town, has done more 
 than anything else to remove the old landmarks in Paris, 
 and many fine old monastic buildings have perished with 
 their owners, who were such a mighty power before the 
 Revolution. But, in later years, the spirit of religion seems 
 to have died in France, and the very churches are almost 
 deserted now, except when any fashionable preacher is 
 announced. A congregation of twenty is not unusual even 
 at high-mass in the metropolitan cathedral of Notre Dame. 
 The numberless priests officiate to bare walls and empty 
 chairs. Only, in the parish churches, poor women are still 
 constantly seen buying their tapers at the door, and lighting 
 them before the image of the Madonna or some favourite 
 saint, praying while they burn — a custom more frequent in 
 Paris than anywhere else. 
 
 ' On dit par jour quatre k cinq mille messes i quinze sols la piice. 
 Les Capucins font grace de trois sols. Toutes ces messes innombrables 
 ont ete fondees par nos bons aieux, qui, pour un reve, commandoient a 
 perpetuite le sacrifice non sanglant. Point de testament sans une fon- 
 datiou de messes ; c'eflt ^t^ une impietd ; et les pretres auroient refus^ 
 la sepulture i quiconque eflt oublie cet article, ainsi que les faits anciens 
 le prouvent. 
 
 ' Entrez dans une eglise ; k droite, i gauche, en face, en-arriere, 
 de cote, un pretre ou consacre, ou eleve I'hostie, ou la mange, ou 
 prononce Vlte, missa esi.' — Tableau de Paris, 1782. 
 
 The great Revolution changed the whole face of Paris so 
 
10 PARIS 
 
 completely, that it is difficult to imagine it as it was before 
 that time : but the many other revolutions have passed 
 by, leaving few marks upon the town, seldom even affecting 
 the daily life of the people for more than a few days. 
 Thus Balzac writes after that of 1830 : 
 
 ' 26 Sept. — Les rues ont repris leur aspect accoutum^ ; les cabriolets 
 elegants, les voitures, les fashionables roulent ou. courent comrae ci- 
 devant ; et, sauf quelques arbres de moins, les boulevards sont 
 toujours semblables i eux-memes. Les sommes destinees aux blesses 
 s'encaissent, les blessures se guerissent, et tout s'oublie. ' — Lettres sur 
 
 It will probably be remarked that there are far fewer 
 idle waifs in Paris than in London. Industry is a passion — 
 ' Les Frangais changeraient les rochers en or, si on les 
 laisserait faire,' was a saying of the minister Colbert. 
 ' Dans ce Paris plein d'or et de misfere,' ' poverty is 
 seldom apparent. Even in the Rue de Beaubourg and its 
 side streets, which have the reputation of being the poorest 
 parts of the city, there is an amount of movement and 
 activity which is very different to the hunger-stricken 
 inanition of the poorer quarters in English cities. 
 
 An old proverb says that, ' Paris is the paradise of 
 women, the purgatory of men, and the hell of horses.' But 
 however true the first of these dictums may be, its bad 
 reputation in the last instance has long been a tale of the 
 past. 
 
 Absorbed in the pursuit of pleasure, setting the fashions 
 of ladies' dress to the universe, Paris has probably had less 
 influence upon literature or art than any other of the great 
 capitals. 
 
 ' Cette ville oil il entre par tant de portes, et tous les jours, et 
 
 ^ B^ranger. 
 
INFLUENCE OF PARIS ii 
 
 inces.iament, des bestiaux, de la farine, du lait, des pontes, et dont il ne 
 sort que du fumier.' — Alphonse Karr, ' Clovis Cosselin.' 
 
 But its political state has always penetrated the rest of 
 Europe ; it has never had a revolution without shaking the 
 stability of other European powers. 
 
 ' Ville qu'un orage enveloppe ! 
 C'est elle, helas ! qui nuit et jour 
 Reveille le giant Europe 
 Avec sa cloche et son tambour ! 
 Sans cesse, qu'il veille ou qu'il dorme, 
 II entend la citi difforme 
 Bourdonner sur sa tete enonne 
 Comme un essaim dans la for^t. 
 Toujours Paris s'icrie et gronde. 
 Nul ne sail, question profonde, 
 Ce qui perdrait le bruit du inonde 
 Le jour oii Paris se tairait.' 
 
 Victor Hugo, ' Les Voix Interieures. ' 
 
 The excitable nature of the French, their intense love 
 of change, and their passion for everything noisy, natur- 
 ally tends to revolutions, and, a revolution once effected, 
 everything belonging to the last regime is swept away as 
 soon as possible : buildings are pulled down, statues dashed 
 to pieces, names recalling those lately adored are changed 
 as unendurable, and their memories are insulted and dragged 
 in the mire. 
 
 ' En France, pays de vanite, aussitot qu'une occasion de faire du 
 bruit se presente, une foule de gens la saisissent ; les uns agissent par 
 bon cosur, les autres par la conscience qu'ils ont de leur mirite.' — 
 Chateaubriand. 
 
 Nowhere is existence cheaper than at Paris for those who 
 know how to manage. A bachelor who does not mind 
 mounting five pairs of stairs may have a charming little 
 apartment for about i/. a week. At the smaller private 
 
12 PARIS 
 
 hotels, an admirably furnished room, with breakfast, lights, 
 and attendance, seldom comes to more than i/. 105. At 
 the admirable Restaurants Duval, which are scattered every- 
 where over the tovsrn, an excellent dinner, with coffee and 
 ' petit verre,' costs from 2 fr. to 2 fr. 50 c. Carriages are 
 reasonable, omnibuses ply in all directions, upon the most 
 admirable and equitable of systems, and a complete circle of 
 railways connects the city with its environs, containing a 
 thousand charming spots, which the Parisian of the middle 
 classes can choose for the point of the Sunday excursion 
 which he almost invariably makes into the country. 
 
 'Jamais un homme n'est parti de Paris gai ; ou il a perdu sa sant^ 
 ou son argent ; ou il a laiss^ des attachemens qui peuvent difEcilement 
 se remplacer dans les autres pays, ou des connoissances interessantes, 
 qu'il est impossible de quitter sans regret. Qu'elle qu'en soit la raison, 
 on est toujours triste en sortant de Paris.' — Sherlock, 1781. 
 
 ' Heureuse nation, qui avez de jolis appartements, de jolis meubles, 
 de jolis bijoux, de jolies productions litteraires, qui prisez avec fureur 
 ces charmantes bagatelles, puissicz-vous prosperer longtemps dans vos 
 jolies idi^es, perfectionner encore ce joli persiflage qui vous concilie 
 I'amour de I'Europe, et toujours merveilleusement coesses, ne jamais 
 vous reveiller du joli r^ve qui berce moUement votre leg^re existence.' 
 Tableau de Paris. 
 
13 
 
 D ULL- USEFUL INFORMA TION. 
 
 Arrival. — Cabs from the station, i fr. and 2 fr. : at 
 night, 2\ and 2\ fr. Each piece of luggage 25 c. Travel- 
 lers are pressed to take an omnibus de fa7nilh, but these are 
 only desirable for large parties. 
 
 Travellers arriving late in Paris and leaving early the 
 next morning by another line, may do well to sleep at one 
 of the hotels near the Gare du Nbrd, such as Hotel 
 du Chemin de Fer du Nurd (good), opposite the station. Or 
 they may prefer a hotel near the station of departure, such 
 as — near the Gare de PRst (for Strasbourg and Nancy 
 or Basle), Hotel de I'Europe (good)j 74 Boulevard de 
 Strasbourg : Hotel S. Laurent, 4 Rue de Metz ; H. de Bile, 
 6 Rue de Metz : H. de Strasbourg, 78 Boulevard de Stras- 
 bourg ; near the Gare de Lyon, Hotel du Chemin de Fer de 
 Lyon ; near the Gare d" Orleans, H. du Chemin de Fer, 
 8 Boulevard de I'Hopital ; near the Gare Montparnasse 
 (for Chartres and Brittany), H. de France et de Bretagne, 
 I Rue du Depart ; near the Gare S. Lazare (for Rouen 
 and Normandy), H. de Londres et New York, T5 Rue du 
 Havre ; H. Anglo- Americain, 113 Rue S. Lazare. 
 
 Hotels,- — The best hotels are those on the western boule- 
 vards, in the Rue de Rivoli, Place Vendome, Rue de la 
 
14 PARIS 
 
 Paix, and their neighbourhood. In these hotels the price of 
 bedrooms varies from 4 to 10 fr., according to the size and 
 floor. Pension in winter is from 15 to 20 fr. a day. 
 Hotels in the Rue S. Honord are less expensive and often 
 more comfortable— pension in winter from 10 to 15 fr. 
 a day. 
 
 The three largest Hotels are — H. Continental, 3 Rue de 
 Castiglione, with a view of the Tuileries gardens ; Grand 
 Hotel, 12 Boulevard des Capucins, close to the new Opera 
 House ; Grand Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, opposite 
 the Louvre, and close to the Palais Royal. 
 
 Important and comfortable hotels are — H. Bristol, 3 and 
 5 Place Vendome ; H. du Rhin, 4 and 6 Place Vendome ; 
 H. Meurice, 228 Rue de Rivoli ; H. Windsor, 226 Rue de 
 Rivoii ; 'S.. Brighton, 218 Rue de Rivoli; H. Wagram, 
 208 Rue de Rivoli ; H. Miraleau, 8 Rue de la Paix ; H. 
 Westminster, 11 and 13 Rue de la Paij: ; H. de HoUande, 
 20 Rue de la Paix ; H. Splendide, 24 Rue de la Paix ; H. 
 Chatham, 1 7 Rue Daunou ; H. de V Empire, 7 Rue Daunou ; 
 H. des Deux-Mondes, 22 Avenue de I'Op^ra. 
 
 Comfortable hotels for a long residence are — H. S. 
 yames, 211 Rue S. Honors ; H. de Lille ct d' Albion, 223 
 Rue S. Honord ; H. Richniond, 1 1 Rue du Helder. 
 
 The hotels north of the boulevards or south of the 
 Seine are much less expensive, and quite unfrequented by 
 English. 
 
 Bachelors making a long stay in Paris may live very 
 comfortably and. reasonably at Maisons Meubldes, such as 
 Hotel Noel-Peter, Rue d'Amboise, H. de Rastadt, 4 Rue 
 Daunou, and many small hotels on the Quai Voltaire, 
 and in the neighbouring streets. Travellers are never 
 
DULL-USEFUL INFORM A TLON 15 
 
 required to have luncheon or dinner in the Parisian hotels, 
 but are generally expected to breakfast there. 
 
 Restaurants. — The best as well as the most expensive 
 restaurants are those on the boulevards and in the Palais 
 Royal. Here a good dinner costs from 10 to 15 fr., exclusive 
 of wine. Restaurants of high reputation are — le Grand Vefour, 
 79 Galerie Beaujolais, Palais Royal ; Maison Dork, 20 • 
 Cafe Riche, 29 ; Cafe Anglais, 13 ; Cafe du Helder, 29 — 
 Boulevard des Italiens ; Bignon, 32 Avenue de I'Op^ra. 
 
 Travellers who are not connoisseurs will, however, prob- 
 ably be satisfied with the Restaurants Duval, which are 
 admirably managed and very moderate in price. These 
 establishments are scattered all over the town, and a list of 
 them is found on the card which is presented to everyone 
 on entering, and on which the waitress (dressed in a costume) 
 marks articles as they are ordered. Payment is made at 
 a desk, three or four sous being left on the table for 
 the attendant. Some of the most convenient Restaurants 
 Duval are — 194 Rue de Rivoh ; 31 Avenue de I'Opdra 
 27 Boulevard de la Madeleine ; 10 Place de la Madeleine 
 10 Boulevard Poissonnifere ; 21 Boulevard Montmartre 
 26 Boulevard S. Michel (near Hotel de Cluny). 
 
 Cabs. — When a cab is engaged the driver should be 
 asked to give you his ticket (numero), which is marked with 
 the tariff of pieces. 
 
 Omnibuses. — The fares in all Parisian omnibuses are the 
 same, for any distance whatever within the barriers — 30 c. 
 inside, 15 c. outside. If no omnibus runs to the exact point 
 a traveller wishes to reach, he demands forrespondance 
 (permission to change from one line to another), on entering 
 a vehicle. Receiving a ticket, he will be set down at the 
 
1 6 PARIS 
 
 point where the two lines cross, and the ticket will give him 
 a prior right to a seat in the corresponding omnibus, and, in 
 some cases, free him from a second payment. There are 
 tramway-lines to S. Cloud, Versailles, and other places in 
 the suburbs. 
 
 Theatres. — Tickets for theatres may be purchased before- 
 hand at a bureau de location, where a plan of the theatre is 
 shown. Seats secured thus are slightly more expensive 
 than those demanded au bureau (at the door). The most 
 important theatre is the Th^itre Fran9ais on the S.W. of 
 the Palais Royal. 
 
 The performances of the Opera take place on Mondays, 
 Wednesdays, and Fridays, and, in the winter, on Saturdays 
 also. 
 
 History. — The founder of the Merovingian dynasty (of 
 which few monarchs resided at Paris) was Clovis, c. 496. 
 The Carlovingian dynasty was founded by Pepin-le-Bref, 
 752, This dynasty was deposed, after the Norman invasion 
 of 885, and the crown given to Count Eudes, who founded 
 the Capetian dynasty. From this time France was ruled by — 
 
 Hugues Capet, 987. 
 Robert II. (le Pieux), 1031. 
 Henri I., 1031. 
 Philippe I., 1060. 
 Louis VI. (le Gros), 1 108. 
 Louis VII. (le Jeune), 1137. 
 Philippe II. (Auguste), 1180. 
 Louis VIII. (le Lion), 1223. 
 Louis IX. (S. Louis), 1226. 
 Philippe III. (le Hardi), 1270. 
 Philippe IV. (le Bel), 1285. 
 Louis X. (le Hiitin), 1314. 
 Philippe V. (le Long), 13 16. 
 Charles IV. (le Bel), 1322. 
 
DULL-USEFUL INFORMATION 17 
 
 House of Valois : — 
 Philippe VI., 1328. 
 Jean (le Bon), 1350. 
 Charles V. (le Sage), 1364. 
 Charles VI. (le Bien-aim6), 13S0. 
 Charles VII., 1422. 
 Louis XI., 1461. 
 Charles VIII., 1483. 
 Louis XII. (Pere du peuple), 1498. 
 Fran9ois I., 1515. 
 Henri II., 1547. 
 Franyois II., 1559. 
 Charles IX., 1 560, 
 Henri III., 1574. 
 
 House of Bourbon : — 
 Henri IV., 1589. 
 Louis XIII., 1610. 
 Louis XIV., 1643. 
 Louis XV., 1715. 
 Louis XVI., 1774. 
 
 Kepublic. — Sept. 22, 1792-1799. 
 Napoleon I. — First Consul, Dec. 25, 1799. 
 Emperor, Dec. 2, 1804. 
 
 House of Bourbon : — 
 Louis XVIIL, 1814. 
 Charles X., 1824. 
 
 Louis Philippe (d'Orl&ns), 1830. 
 
 Repubhc, 1848- 1852. 
 
 Napoleon III. — President, Dec. 20, 1848. 
 
 Emperor, Dec. '2, 1852. 
 Republic proclaimed, Sept. 4, 1870, 
 
1 8 PARIS 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE TUILERIES AND LOUVRE. 
 
 THOSE who visit Paris now, and look down the avenues 
 of the Champs Elys^es and gardens which lead to 
 nothing at all, or mourn over the unmeaning desolate space 
 once occupied by the central facade of the Tuileries, can 
 scarcely realise the scene as it was before the Revolution of 
 1870. Then, between the beautiful chestnut avenues, across 
 the brilliant flowers and quaint orange trees of the gardens, 
 beyond the sparkling glory of the fountains, rose the majestic 
 fagade of a palace, infinitely harmonious in colour, inde- 
 scribably picturesque and noble in form, interesting beyond 
 description from its associations, appealing to the noblest 
 and most touching recollections, which all its surroundings 
 led up to and were glorified by, which was the centre and 
 soul of Paris, the first spot to be visited by strangers, the 
 one point in the capital which attracted the sympathies of 
 the world. 
 
 It is all gone now. Malignant folly ruined it : apathetic 
 and narrow-minded policy declined to restore and pre- 
 serve it. 
 
THE TUJLERIES 19 
 
 Till the beginning of the XVI. c. the site of the 
 Tuileries was occupied by a manufactory of tiles, which 
 existed in some of the open grounds belonging to the cour- 
 tille of the Hospital of the Quinze Vingts, founded in the 
 middle of the XIII. c. on a site which is now crossed by 
 the Rue de Rivoli. 
 
 ' This Pallace is called Tuilleries, because heretofore they used to 
 burn tile there, before the Pallace was built. For this French word 
 Tuillerie doth signifie in the French a place for burning of tile.' — 
 Cory at s ' Crudities,' i6ll. 
 
 It was in 1 5 18 that Louise de Savoie, Duchesse d'Angou- 
 leme, mother of Frangois I., finding the Hotel des Tournelles 
 an unhealthy residence, on account of its neighbourhood to 
 the great drain of the Marais, obtained the Tnilexits— terra 
 Tegulariorum — from her son, with the rleighbouring villa of 
 Nicolas de Neufville, Secretaire des Finances. Louise died 
 in 1531, and her villa continued to be a prize given to 
 favourites in the royal household, till Catherine de Medicis 
 greatly enlarged the domain of the Tuileries by purchase, 
 and employed Philibert Delorme to built a magniiicent 
 palace there. He erected the fagade towards the gardens, 
 till lately the admiration of Europe, ^nd his work — ' le grand 
 avant-corps du milieu' — was continued by Jean Bullant, 
 who built the pavilions at either end of his fagade. This 
 was continued by Du Cerceau under Henri IV. to the 
 Pavilion de Flore, close to the site then occupied by the 
 Porte Neuve and the circular Tour dti Bois belonging to 
 the city walls, which ran behind the palace to the Porte S. 
 Honord, across the present site of the Place du Carrousel. 
 Du Cerceau also continued the south side of the palace 
 from the Pavilion de Flore, parallel with the Seine, inter- 
 
20 PARIS 
 
 rupting the line of the city walls by great galleries which 
 connected his building with the Louvre. The space on the 
 north still continued to be unoccupied, except by the de- 
 tached buildings of the Grande Ecurie, until the north side 
 of the palace, with the Pavilion de Marsan towards the Rue 
 de Rivoli, was built for Louis XIV. by Levau and his soht 
 .in-law, Frangois d'Orbay. Under the second empire the 
 Tuileries was finally united on the north side with the 
 Louvre, with which it thenceforth formed one vast palace. 
 The Pavilion de Flore was rebuilt 1863-68. 
 
 The Tuileries was seldom inhabited by royalty till the 
 present century. Under Louis XIV. Versailles became' the 
 royal residence. Louis XV. spent some time at the Tuileries 
 during his minority and the regency, and comical are the 
 accounts of the way in which his governess, Mme de 
 Ventadour, faced there the difficulties of his education. 
 
 ' Un jeune enfant, ni d'une pauvre famille, et de I'age de Louis 
 XV. , fut choisi pour son compagnon d'^tude, et devint I'emule de ce 
 roi, qui le prit en amiti^. Chaque fois que Louis XV. manquait ^ ses 
 devoirs, n^gligeait ses etudes, on punissait ou fouettait son petit ami. 
 Ce moyen inique eut peu de succis. ' — Mimoirts de Duclos. 
 
 After he grew up Louis XV. always resided at Versailles. 
 Louis XVI. lived either at Versailles or S. Cloud, till he was 
 brought to Paris as a prisoner to find the palace almost un- 
 furnished. ' Tout y manquait, lits, tables, chaises, et jusqu' 
 aux objets les plus ndcessaires de la vie.' In a few days 
 some of the furniture of the royal apartments at Versailles 
 was brought to Paris, and the royal family then established 
 themselves— the king, queen, and royal children in the 
 central apartments on the ground floor and entresol of the 
 left wing, Mme de Lamballe on the ground floor, and 
 
THE TUILERIES 21 
 
 Madame Elisabeth on the first floor of the Pavilion de 
 Flore. Thus accommodated, they were compelled to reside 
 at the Tuileries from October 6, 1789, to August 10, 1792. 
 After the execution of Louis XVI. (condemned at the 
 Manage) the Convention held its meetings at the Tuileries, 
 till it was replaced by the Conseil des Anciens in 1796. 
 
 On February i, 1800, Bonaparte came to reside at the 
 Tuileries, which still bore placards inscribed with ' 10 Aollt, 
 1792. La royautd en France est abohe et ne se relfevera 
 jamais.' ' Eh bien, Bourienne, nous voilk, done aux Tuile- 
 ries. Maintenant il faut y rester,' were the first words of 
 the future emperor to his faithful secretary on arriving. 
 Henceforward regiments defiled through the court of the 
 Tuileries every five days. 
 
 ' C'est li que Bonaparte se laissait voir aux troupes et \ la multi- 
 tude toujours pressee d'accourir sur ses pas ; maigre, pSle, penchd sur 
 son cheval, il int^ressait et frappait i la fois, par une beaute grave et 
 triste, par une apparence de mauvaise sant^ dent on commen5ait i 
 s'inquieter beaucoup, car jamais la conservation d'un homme n'avait 
 ^te autant desiree que la sienne.' — Thiers. 
 
 Th& fleurs-de-lts were now picked out of the furniture 
 of the Tuileries, and replaced by the bee of the Bonapartes. 
 In the chapel Napoleon I. was married by Cardinal Fesch 
 to Josephine (who had long been his wife by the civil bond), 
 Berthier and Talleyrand being witnesses ; in the palace 
 he received Pius VII., who was given the Pavilion de 
 Flore as a residence ; thence he went to his coronation ; 
 there the different marriages of the imperial brothers and 
 sisters took place ; there the divorce of Josephine was pro- 
 nounced ; and there, in 181 2, when intending to unite the 
 Tuileries to the Louvre, he especially bade the architect to 
 prepare vast apartments for the vassal sovereigns who would 
 
22 PARIS 
 
 form part of his cortfege on his triumphant return from 
 Russia ! 
 
 Napoleon I. fell, but the Tuileries continued to be the 
 habitual seat of the executive power till 1870. At the 
 Restoration of 1814 the last survivor of the five prisoners of 
 the Temple, the Duchesse d'Angouleme, was received there 
 by two hundred ladies dressed in white embroidered with 
 the Bourbon lily. There she watched over the last hours of 
 Louis XVIIL, and there, through the reigns of Louis XVIII. 
 and Charles X., she lived apart from the dissipations of the 
 Court, in a room hung with white velvet, upon which lilac 
 daisies had been worked by the hands of her mother and 
 Madame Elisabeth, and in which, in an oratory, she kept 
 the memorials of their last days — the cap which the queen 
 had made with her own hands to wear at her trial ; the 
 handkerchief torn from the bosom of Madame Elisabeth on 
 the scaffold ; the coat, white cravat, and black silk waistcoat 
 in which Louis XVI. had gone to death — all preserved in a 
 drawer of the rude bench on which her brother had died. 
 
 Another revolution, and the numerous members of the 
 Orleans family crossed the road from the Palais-Royal to 
 reside at the Tuileries. Louis Philippe at once began to 
 prepare for a revolution by making a fosse concealed by 
 lilacs and screened by an iron balustrade along the garden 
 front of the palace. But eighteen years of alternations of joy 
 and mourning, public sympathy and unpopularity, were 
 allowed to pass over the family, increasing the respect felt 
 for the virtues of Marie- Amdlie, and the want of confidence 
 in the feeble king, before the end came in February 1848, 
 two months after Louis Philippe had lost his right hand and 
 directing moral influence in his strong-minded sister, 
 
THE TUILERIES 23 
 
 Madame Adelaide, who died in the Pavilion de Flore, 
 December 31, 1847. As King Louis Philippe passed out 
 of the Tuileries into exile he uttered on the threshold the 
 significant last words of his reign, 'Tout comme Charles 
 Dix 1 ' 
 
 From the time of the sudden death of the young Due 
 d'Orl&ns, July 13, 1842, his widow had lived for six years 
 in the apartment which had belonged to him in the Pavilion 
 de Marsan, turning it into a sanctuary. 
 
 ' Pas un meuble ne fut changd de place ; pas un objet ne 
 fut enleve ; prfes de la cheminee ^tait un grand fauteuil, sur lequel le 
 prince avail jete, tout d^pli^ le num^ro du Journal des D^hats du 
 tneme jour, et ce journal ne fut pas relev^ pendant six ans ; le lit ^tait 
 defait, on ne le fit pas ; la malle pr^paree pour le voyage de Plom- 
 bi^res, 011 le due devait aller retrouver la duchesse, resta ouverte.' — 
 Imhert de S, Amand. 
 
 After the flight of the rest of the royal family on Feb- 
 ruary 24, 1848, the Duchess, with her two children, escorted 
 by her faithful brother-in-law, the Due de Nemours, left 
 the Tuileries to make her futile claim upon the protection 
 and sympathy of the Chamber of Deputies. In the after 
 sack of the Tuileries her rooms and the chapel were the 
 only apartments respected. Two cartloads of the finest 
 Sfevres china alone were destroyed, and the Orleans collec- 
 tion of pictures was cut to pieces. 
 
 On January i, 1852, the second empire made its trium- 
 phal entry into the Tuileries in the person of Louis Napoleon. 
 There on January 29, 1853, he was affianced to the beautiful 
 Comtesse de T^ba ; there the Prince Imperial was born, 
 March 16, 1856 ; there the empress, long the idol of fickle 
 France, heard of the misfortune of Sedan ; and thence she 
 fled from the fury of the mob on September 4, 1870. 
 
24 PARIS 
 
 No sovereign should ever again inhabit the Tuileries. 
 The palace, which had been four times already attacked by 
 the people of Paris (June 20, 1792 ; August 10, 1792 ; July 
 29, 1830; February 24, 1848), was wilfully burnt by the 
 Commune — by barrels of petroleum and gunpowder placed 
 in the different rooms — May 23, 187 1, after the troops from 
 Versailles had entered the city. Internally, it was completely 
 destroyed, but the walls, roofless and gutted, remained nearly 
 entire, and the beautiful central pavilion of Philibert Delorme 
 was almost entirely unhurt. Yet, through want of energy 
 for their restoration, these, by far the most interesting ruins 
 in France, were razed to the ground, and its greatest orna- 
 ment and its central point of interest were thus lost to Paris 
 for ever. 
 
 All that remains of the. past now is the Tuileries garden, 
 with its great orange trees in tubs and its vast population of 
 statues. Most of these date from the Revolution ; but the 
 older statues, brought hither from the gardens of Marly, are 
 of the time of Louis XIV. As a work of art we may notice 
 the Winter of S^bastien Stodtz (1.655-1726). It was behind 
 the statue of Venus Pudica, at one of the angles of the prin- 
 cipal avenue, that Henri concealed himself when he fired 
 upon Louis Philippe, July 29, 1846. The finest of all the 
 sculptures are the equestrian statues by Antoine Coysevox, 
 brought from Marly, and now placed on either side of the 
 entrance from the Place de la Concorde. 
 
 ' Ces deux admirables groupes, La Renommie et Mercure, ^taient 
 tailles dans deux enormes blocs de marbre, par I'artiste lui-meme, qui 
 en avait fait les modeles et qui inscrivit sur la plinthe du Mercure : 
 Ces deux groupes ont esti faits en deux ans.' — Paul Lacroix, ' Dix- 
 huitiime Siicle.' 
 
 The original plan of the gardens, as laid out by Regnard 
 
TUILERIES GARPENS 
 
 25 
 
 under Louis XIII. and afterwards by Levau and D'Orbay, 
 was much altered by Lenotre with a judgment which time 
 has completely justified 
 
 ' II a eu Tattention de ne commencer le r.ouvert du jardin qu'a 
 qaatre-viagt deux toises de la fajade du palais, pour laisser jouir cet 
 Edifice d'un air salubre, et il a enrichi le solde cette partie decouverte 
 par des parterres de broderies & compartiments, eiitrem61& de massifs 
 de gazon, qui peuvent etre regardes comme autant des chefs-d'ceuvres.' 
 Blonde!. 
 
 THE GARDENS OF THE TUILERIES. 
 
 The portion of the gardens nearest the Champs Elysdes 
 is laid out in groves of chestnut trees. There is a tradition 
 that one of these trees heralds spring by flowering on March 
 22, oh which day orthodox Parisians go to look for the 
 phenomenon. 
 
 On either side of the gardens are raised terraces. That 
 on the south above the Seine formerly ended in the hand- 
 
26 PARIS 
 
 some Porte de la Conference (on the walls of Charles IX.), 
 which was destroyed in 1730. It derived its name from the 
 Spanish ambassadors having entered there to confer with 
 Mazarin about the marriage of Maria Theresa with Louis 
 XIV. The north terrace, above the Rue de Rivoli, is still 
 one of the most popular promenades in Paris. Its western 
 end, being the warmest and sunniest part of the garden, has 
 obtained the name of La Petite Provence. Here it was that 
 Louis XV. first saw Mile de Romans, brought hither 
 as a beautiful little girl to see the show of the king's entry, 
 sent to inquire at the lemonade stall (existing then as now) 
 who she was, and then took her away from her parents to 
 become his mistress and the mother of the Abbd de 
 Bourbon.' Along this same Terrasse des Feuillants his 
 grandson, I^ouis XVI., and his family, escaped from the 
 Tuileries on the terrible August 10, 1792, to take refuge in 
 the National Assembly, then held in the Manfege or riding- 
 school, which joined the old buildings of the Couvent des 
 Feuillants. Only two of the queen's ladies were permitted 
 to accompany them, Mme de Lamballe as being a rela- 
 tion, and Mme de Tourzel as being governess of tlie 
 Children of France. 
 
 ' Dans le trajet k pas lents du palais aux Feuillants, Marie Antoi- 
 nette pleure, elle essuie ses larmes et pleure encore. A travers la 
 haie des grenadiers suisses et des grenadiers de la garde nationale, la 
 populace I'entoure et la presse de si pr^s que sa montre et sa bourse lui 
 sont voices. Arrivee vis-k-vis le cafe de la Terrasse, c'est k peine si la 
 reine s'aperfoit qu'elle enfonce dans des tas de feuilles. "Voili 
 bien des feuilles," dit leroi; " elles tombent de bonne heure cette 
 annee ! " Au bas de I'escalier de la Terrasse, hommes et femmes, 
 brandissant des bitons, barrent le passage i la famille royale. " Non ! " 
 clame la foule, ' ' ils n'entreront pas i 1' Assembl^e I lis sont la 
 
 * Mme Campan, Anecdotes, 
 
TUILERIES GARDENS 27 
 
 cause de tous nos malheurs ; il faut que cela finisse ! A bas ! k has ! " 
 La famille passe enfin.' — De GoncouH, ' L'Hist. de Marie- Antoinette.' 
 
 Nothing remains now of the old convent of the Feuillants 
 (destroyed to make the Rue de Rivoh), which gave the terrace 
 its name, and where the royal family spent the days from 
 August 10 to 13 (when they were taken to the Temple) in 
 cells, beneath which the people constantly demanded the 
 death of the queen with cries of ' Jetez-nous sa tete ! ' ' 
 
 Close to the Terrasse des Feuillants is the Alike des 
 Grangers, where orange trees in tubs, many of them historic 
 trees of great age, are placed in summer. In the groves of 
 trees between this and the southern terrace are two hemi- 
 cycles of white marble — Carrks d Atalante — which are inter- 
 esting as having been erected from a fancy of Robespierre 
 in 1793, that the old men might sit there to watch the floral 
 games of youth. 
 
 In the gardens, where Horace Walpole was so surprised 
 to find in reality the lopped trees and clipped and trimmed 
 nature portrayed in the pictures of Watteau, we may recall 
 many of the scenes of which those and other pictures of the 
 time are perhaps the best existing record. Here Louis XIII. 
 as a boy was taught to build little fortresses. Here Arthur 
 Young (January 1790) saw the Dauphin (Louis XVIL), 'a 
 pretty good-natured looking boy of five -or six years old,' at 
 work with his little rake and hoe in his miniature railed-off 
 garden, but not without a guard of two grenadiers. Here 
 also, of the early days of the Revolution, Chateaubriand 
 wrote : — 
 
 ' Le palais des Tuileries, grande geole remplie de condamnes, 
 s'elevait au milieu des fetes de la destruction. Les sentencies 
 
 ' Lettre de M. Aubler. 
 
28 ■ PARIS 
 
 jouaient aiissi en attendant la charrette, la tonte, la chemise rouge qu'on 
 avait mise s&her, et Ton voyait i travers les fenStres les eblouissantes 
 illuminations du cercle de la reine.' — Mimoires d^Outre-Tombe. 
 
 Here also it was that (March 20, i8n) the vast breathless 
 multitude waited for the sound of the guns which were to 
 announce the birth of a child of Napoleon and Marie I^ouise, 
 and burst into a shout of joy when the twenty-second gun 
 made known that the child was a son — the King of Rome. 
 
 ' Une tradition qui demeurera eterneilement vivante, sera celle du 
 20 mars 1811, lorsque le premier coup de canon annonfa enfin que 
 Marie-Louise ^tait mere. . . . A ce premier retentissement, tout ce 
 qui marchait s'arrSta .... tout. Dans une .seconde, la grande 
 ville fut frappee de silence comme par enchantement. . . . Le mot 
 d'affaires le plus important, la parole d'amour la plus dflirante, tout 
 fut suspendu . . . . et sans le retentissement du canon, on aurait cru 
 Jtre dans cette ville des Mille et une Nuits, qu'un coup de baguette 
 petrifia. . . . Puis un vingt-deuxieme coup tonna enfin dans le 
 silence! .... Alors un seul cri, un seul! . . . . mais pousse par 
 un million de voix, retentit dans Paris et fit trembler les murs de ce 
 m€me palais oil venait de nattre le fils du heros, et autour duquel la 
 foule etait si pressee, qu'un nioucheron n'aurait pu se poser en terre.' — - 
 Mimoues de la Duchesse d'Abrantis. 
 
 A similar crowd waited here, March 16, 1856, for the 
 birth of the brave and unfortunate prince who was the son 
 of Napoleon III. and Eugenie de Guzman. 
 
 In the palace which looked upon the garden Napoleon 
 II. at five years old had been taught to ' reprdsenter noble- 
 ment et avec grace,' receiving a mimic Court every Sunday, 
 
 But all the memories of the Tuileries sink into in- 
 significance compared with those which surround the 
 events of 1792. Weber, 'frfere de lait ' of Marie Antoi- 
 nette, describes bow he was driving by the Seine on the 
 afternoon of June 20. 
 
THE TWENTIETH OF JUNE 
 
 29 
 
 ' Revenant le long du quai, j'ai vu la pdrte vis-i-vis le Pont-Royal 
 ouverte ; et tout le monde y entrant, je suis descendu de voiture et je 
 me suis mSle k la foule, ne doutant pas qu'il n'y eiit la beaucoup 
 d'honnetes gens prSts i se jeter dans le cMteau pour d^fendre les jours 
 du roi, s'ils etaient menaces ; et en effet j'en ai trouv^ un grand nombre. 
 J'ai demand^ i plusieurs combien ils Etaient ; ils m'ont repondu, 
 " Six ^ sept cents, " II y avait quarante mille bandits ! Au reste, k peine 
 entr^ dans le jardin, je n'ai plus ■•nx I'image du danger. Un triple 
 rang de gardes nationales, les deux derniers ayant la baionnette aubout 
 
 THE TUILERIES AND THE PONT-ROYAL 
 
 du fusil, bordait la terrasse, depuis la porte du Pont- Royal jusqu'a celle 
 vis-a-vis S. Roch. Les bandits d^filaient assez paisiblement : quelques 
 pelotons seulement s'arr^taient de temps en temps sous les fenStres des 
 appartements royaux, agitant leurs armes, et criant : A has Veto 1 Vive 
 la nation I J'ai entendu un de ceux qui pOrtaient les armes les plus 
 horribles et dont la bonne physionomie contrastait singulierement avec 
 son costume feroce, dire en voyant les fenetres du roi fermees : Mais 
 pourquoi dont nc se montre-i-il pas ? De quoi a-t-ilpeur ce pauvre cher 
 homme ? Nous ne voulons pas luifaire du jnal. J'ai entendu r^piter 
 cet ancien propos, On le trompe ; un autre repliquait : Mais aussi pour- 
 quoi croii-il plutdt six hommes qu£ sept cent quarante-cinq ? On lui a 
 donni un veto, il ne sail pas le gouvemer. Une machine enorme. 
 
30 PARIS 
 
 taillee comnie les tables de la loi de Moise, et sur laquelle etait ^crite 
 en lettres d'or la declaration des droits de Thomme, etait la grande 
 relique de la procession. A cote des femmes qui portaient des sabres et 
 des broches, on voyait des hommes porter des branches d'olivier. Les 
 bonnets rouges ^taient par milliers, et a chaque fusil ou i chaque pique 
 pendait une banderole sur laquelle on lisait : La constitution ou la 
 mort I ' 
 
 Later in the day the masses of the people advanced 
 upon the palace. The guard then fraternised with the 
 invaders, and a cannon was pointed at the inner entrance 
 of the king's apartments. Louis XVL, perfectly calm in 
 the midst of danger, urged Marie Antoinette to secure her 
 children, and, followed only by his heroic sister Elizabeth, 
 who insisted upon sharing his fate, went down to the 
 entrance. ' Let them think I am the queen,' said the 
 princess, as they shouted for the head of Marie Antoinette, 
 ' that she may have time to escape.' 
 
 ' " Toute defense est inutile," dit le roi ; " il n'y a plus qu'un parti i 
 prendre, c'est de leur ouvrir la porte et de se presenter avec calme," et 
 en meme temps il ordonna au Suisse Edouard d'ouvrir. Celui-ci ob^it, 
 et toute cette foule, qui croyait le monarque cach^, manifesta un instant 
 de surprise. Ses amis profitent de ce moment pour le faire monter sur 
 un entablement oil il fflt moins expose aux fureurs individuelles de 
 ceux qui en voulaient k sa vie. Ce fut M. de Bougainville qui imagina 
 cet expedient. M. Deloque et ses autres amis se pressent autour de 
 cette tablette et lui font un rempart. Le spectacle qui se presentait 
 alors devant le roi ^tait horrible. Du milieu de cette populace im- 
 monde, formee d'hommes de tous les pays, mais plus particuli^rement 
 de gens sans aveu des contrees meridionales, il voyait s'^lever trois 
 especes d'enseignes, I'une formee d'un fer qui ressemblait a la machine 
 fameuse appel^e guillotine, avec cette inscription : ' ' Pour le tyran. " 
 La seconde repr^sentait une femme k une potence, avec ces mots : 
 " Pour Antoinette." Sur la troisi^me, on voyait un morceau de chair 
 en forme de creur, clou^ kune planche, avec cette inscription : " Pour 
 les pretres et les aristocrates. " 
 
 'Pendant pris de quatre heures, ceux qjii marchaient sous ces 
 
THE TWENTIETH OF JUNE 31 
 
 epouvantables ^tendards dirlgferent, pardessus les tetes du gioupe, 
 leurs piques vers le roi, en lui disant de sanctionner le d&ret contre les 
 pr^tresj k peine de dech^ance ou de mort, et il ripondit constamment : 
 "Je renoncerais plutot k la couroune que de participer k una pareille 
 tyrannic des consciences." Pour prouver sa r&ignation, il se laissa, 
 en disant ces mots, placer le bonnet rouge sur la tSte par un trfes-beau 
 jeune homme, nomme Clement. 
 
 ' On lui pr&enta une bouteille en lui proposant de boire aux patriotes. 
 " Celaest empoisonne," luidit tout bas son voisin, et il replique : " Eh 
 bien, je mourrai sans sanctionner." II boit sans hesiter. " On a voulu 
 seulement effrayer Votre Majeste," lui dit quelque temps apres un 
 grenadier de la garde natlonale, croyant qu'il avait besoin d'etre 
 rassure. "Vous voyez qu'il est calme," lui dit le roi en lui prenant 
 la main et la mettant sur son cceur ; "on est tranquille en faisant son 
 devoir."' — Beaulieu, ' Essais historiques.' 
 
 Mme Campan describes the scene in the interior of 
 the Palace. 
 
 ' La reine n'avait pu parvenir jusqu'au roi ; elle ^tait dans la salle 
 du conseilj et on avail eu de meme I'id^e de la placer derri^re la grande 
 table, pour la garantir, autant que possible, de I'approche de ces bar- 
 bares. Dans cette horrible situation, conservant un maintien noble et 
 decent, elle tenait le dauphin devant elle, assis sur la table. Madame 
 etait k ses c8tes ; Mme la Princesse de Lamballe, la Princesse de 
 Tarante, Mmes de Roche-Aymon, de Tourzel et de Mackau 
 Fenvironnaient. Elle avait attache k sa tete une cocarde au trois cou- 
 leurs, qu'un garde nationale lui avait donn^e; Le pauvre petit dau- 
 phin etait, ainsi que le roi, affuble d'un enorme bonnet rouge. La 
 horde defila devant cette table ; les especes d'etendards qu'elle por- 
 tait etaient des symboles de la plus atroce barbarie. II y en avait un 
 qui representait une potence \ laquelle une m^chante poupee etait sus- 
 pendue ; ces mots etaient &rits au bas : Marie-Antoifieite d la lanterns. 
 Un autre ^tait une planche sur laquelle on avait fixe un coeur de boeuf, 
 autour duquel ^tait ecrit : C<eur de Louis XVI. 
 
 'L'une des plus furieuses jacobines qui defilaient avec ces miser- 
 ables s'arr^ta pour vomir mille imprecations contre la reine. Sa 
 Majesty lui demanda si elle I'avait jamais vue : elle lui r^pondit que 
 non ; si elle lui avait fait quelque mal personnel : sa reponse fut la 
 meme ; mais elle ajouta : '* C'est vous qui faites la malheur de la nation. " 
 " On vous I'a dit," reprit la reine, " on vous a trompee. Epouse d'un 
 
32 PARIS 
 
 roi de France, mere du dauphin, je suis Franyaise, jamais je 
 ne reverrai mon pays, je ne puis 6tre heureuse ou malheureuse qu'en 
 France; j'^tais heureuse quand vous m'aimiez." Cette m^g^re se mit 
 i pleurer, ^ lui demander pardon, i lui dire : " C'est que je ne vdus 
 connaissais pas ; je vois que vous etes bien bonne." 
 
 ' H 6tait hult heures quand le palais fut enti^rement evacui. — Mi- 
 moires. 
 
 Yet the horrors of this terrible day paled before those of 
 August lo, 1792. 
 
 'Aminuit, le tocsin se fit entendre aux Cordeliers : en peu d 'instants 
 il sonna dans tout Paris. On battit la g^n&ale dans tous les quartiers ; 
 le bruit du canon se m^ait, par intervalles, a celui des tambours. Les 
 seditieux se rassembUrent dans les sections ; les troupes de brigands 
 accouraient de tous c6t&. Des assassins, arm^s de poignardes n'at- 
 tendaient que le moment de p^n^trer dans la pi^ce qui renfermait la 
 famille royale, et de I'exterminer. Les colonnes faciieuses s'ftranlferent 
 et se mirent en marche sans rencontrer d'obslacles. Un officier muni- 
 cipal avait an^anti, de sa propre autorit^, la plupart des dispositions 
 de dffense. Le Pont-Neuf, d^garni de troupes et de canons, laissait 
 aux seditieux toute la facility de marcher sur le chateau. Des pelotons 
 de troupes, distribues dans le jardin, dans les cours et dans I'interieur 
 du palais, ^taient alors la seule ressource ; encore n'avaient-ils pour 
 diriger leurs mouvement aucun chef experiment^. Les officiers qui les 
 commandaient, tires de la bourgeoisie de Paris et presque tous de pro^ 
 fessions ^trang^res au metier des amies, n'avaient point cette connais- 
 sance de la tactique, ni cette resolution que demandaient les conjonc- 
 tures. — Hue, ' Mimoires.' 
 
 ' Les suisses ^taient ranges comme de veritables murailles, et dans ce 
 silence militaire qui contrastait avec la rumeur perpetuelle de la garde 
 bourgeoise ; le roi fit connaitre k M. de J. , officier de I'etat-major, le 
 plan de dtfense que le gte&al Viom^nil avait prepare. M. de J. me dit 
 apr^s cette conference particuli^re : " Mettez dans vos poches vos bijoux 
 et votre argent : nos dangers sont inevitables, les moyens de defense 
 sont nuls ; ils ne pourraient se trouver que dans la vigueur du roi, et 
 c'est la seule vertu qui lui manque." 
 
 ' A une heure apr^s minuit, la reine et Madame Elisabeth dirent 
 qu'ils allaient se coucher sur un canap^ dans un cabinet des entresols, 
 dont les fenltres donnaient sur la cour des Tuileries. 
 
 ' La reine me dit que le roi venait de lui refuser de passer son gilet 
 
THE TENTH OF AUGUST 33 / 
 
 plastronn^, qu'il y avait consenti le 14 juillet, parce qu'il allait simple- 
 ment ^ une cer^monie, ovi Ton pouvait craindre le fer d'un assassin ; 
 mais que dans un jour oil son parti pouvait se.battre centre les r^vo- 
 lutionnaires 11 trouvait de la lachete a preserver ses jours par un 
 semblable moyen. 
 
 ' Pendant ce temps, Madame Elisabeth se d^gageait de quelques 
 v§tements qui la genaient pour se coucber sur le canape ; elle avait 
 6td de son fichu une ipingle de cornaline, et avant de la poser sur la 
 table elle me la montra, et me dit de lire une legende qui y etait 
 gravee autour d'une tige de lis. J'y lus ces mots : Ouhli des offenses, 
 pardon des injures. " Je crains bien," ajouta cette vertueuse 
 princesse, " que cette maxime ait peu d'influence parmi nos ennemis,' 
 mais elle ne doit pas nous en etre moins ch^re." 
 
 ' La reine m'ordonna de m'asseoir aupr^s d'elle ; les deux princesses 
 ne pouvaient dormir ; elles s'entretenaient douloureusement sur leur 
 situation, lorsqu'un coup de fusil fut tir^ dans la cour. Elles quitt^- 
 rent I'une et I'autre ,le canape en disant : ' ' Voilk le premier coup de feu ; 
 ce ne sera pas malheureusement le dernier ; montons cher le roi. " La 
 reine me dit de la suivre ; plusieurs de ses femries vinrent avec moi.' — 
 Mme Campan, ' Mimoires.' 
 
 'Entre quatre et cinq heures du matin, la reine et Madame 
 EUsabeth ^taient dans le cabinet du conseil. L'un des chefs de legion 
 entra, " Voili," dit-il aux deux princesses, " voilk votre dernier jour ; le 
 peuple est le plus fort : quel carnage il y aura." " Monsieur," repondit 
 la reine, ' ' sauvez le roi, sauvez mes enfants. " En meme temps, cette 
 m^re eplor^e courut 4 la chambre de Monsieur le Dauphin : je la suivis. 
 Le jeune prince s'eveilla ; ses regards et ses caresses mSteent quelque 
 douceur aux sentiments douloureux de I'amour maternel. " Maman," 
 dit Monsieur le Dauphin en baisant les mains de la reine, " pourquoi 
 feraient-ils du mal k papa? il est si bon ! " ' — Hue, ' MJmoires.' 
 
 ' La reine vint nous dire qu'elle n'esperait plus rien ; que M. 
 Mandat, qui s'etait rendu 4 l'h6tel de ville pour avoir de nouveaux 
 ordres, venait d'etre assassin^, et que sa tete ^tait promenee dans les 
 rues. Le jour etait venu; le roi, la reine, Madame Elisabeth, Madame 
 et le Dauphin descendirent pour parcourir les rangs des sections de la 
 garde nationale ; on cria Vi-ve le roi 1 dans quelques endroits. J'^tais 
 a une fenetre du c6te du jardin ; je vis des canonniers quitter leurs 
 postes et s'approcher du roi, lui mettant le poing sous le nez en 
 I'insultant par les plus grossiers propos. MM. de Salvert et de Briges 
 les eloign^rent avec vigueur. Le roi etait p&le, comme s'il avait 
 cesse d'exister. La famille royale rentra ; la reine me dit que tout 
 
34 PARIS 
 
 ^tait perdu ; que le roi n'avait montr^ aucune energie, et que cette 
 esp^ce de revue avail fait plus de mal que de bien. . . . Pendant ce 
 temps les bandes nombreuses des faubourgs, armees de piques et de 
 coutelas, remplissaient le Carrousel et les rues adjacentes aux Tuileries. 
 Les sanguinaires Marseillais ^talent a leur tete, les canons braques 
 centre le chateau. Dans cette extremite, le conseil du roi envoys M, 
 Dejoly, ministre de la justice, vers I'Assemblee, pour lui demander 
 d'envoyer au roi une deputation qui put servir de sauvegarde au 
 pouvoir executif. Sa perte ^tait resolue : on passa a I'ordre du jour. 
 A huit heures le departement se reudit au chateau; le procureur- 
 syndic, voyant que la garde jnt&ieure etait prete i se r^unir aux 
 assaillants, entra dans le cabinet du roi, et demanda i lui parler en 
 partlculier. ' — Mnie Cainpan, ' Mimoires. ' 
 
 ' M. Roederer se joignit aux ministres du roi, et d'un commun 
 accord, tous le conjurerent de se sauver avec sa famille et de se 
 refiigier dans le sein de I'Assemblee nationale. " Ce n'est que Ik, 
 sire," dit M. Roederer, " au milieu des representants du peuple, que 
 Votre Majeste, que la reine, que la famille royale peuvent Stre en 
 sflret^. Venez, fuyons : encore un quart d'heure, et la retraite ne 
 dipendra peut-6tre plus de nous." Le roi h^sitait ; la reine temoignait 
 le plus vif m&ontentement. " Quoi ! " disait-elle, " nous sommes 
 seuls, personne ne pent agir . . . ." " Oui, madame, seuls ; Paction 
 est inutile, la resistance impossible. " ' — Mofitjoie, ' Hist, de Marie- 
 Antoinette.' 
 
 ' Les commissaires, s'apercevant que toutes les personnes qui, par 
 devoir ou par zfele, s'etaient rfonies dans les appartements de leurs 
 Majestes, resolues de les defendre ou de p^rir avec elles, se disposaient 
 i les accompagner, firent tous leurs efforts pour s'y opposer .... 
 Roederer s'adressant tantSt au roi, tant6t k la reine, leur repr^sentait 
 avec cbaleur qu'un " tel cortege, Irritant encore plus la fureurdu peuple, 
 ne pouvait qu'ajouter k leurs dangers. ' " Leurs Majestes ne songerent 
 qu'k celui auquel se d^vouaient leurs serviteurs fiddles ; et, ne pr^- 
 voyant point le peril plus grand encore auquel ils allaient rester 
 eixposfe, nous priaient tous avec instance de ne pas les suivre.' — 
 Weber, ' Mc'moires.' 
 
 'La reine n'emmena avec elle que Mme la princesse de Lam- 
 halle et Mme de Tourzel. La princesse de Tarente et Mme de 
 Roche-Aymon se desolaient d'etre laiss^es aux Tuileries. Elles 
 descendirent ainsi que toute la chambre dans I'appartement de la 
 reine. 
 
 ' Nous vimes defiler la famille royale entre deux haies formees par 
 
THE TENTH OF AUGUST 35 
 
 les grenadiers suisses et ceux des bataillons des Petits-Peres et des 
 Filles-Saint-Thomas. I1& etalent si presses par la foule que pendant ce 
 court trajet la reine fut vol^e de sa montre et de sa bourse. Un 
 homme d'une stature ^pouvantable et d'une figure atroce, tel qu'on 
 voit k la tete de toutes les insurrections, s'appToche du dauphin que la 
 reine tenait par la main, I'enl^ve et le prend dans ses bras. La reine 
 fit un cri d'effroi, et fut pr^s de s'evanouir. Cet homme lui dit : 
 " N'ayez pas peur, je ne veux pas lui faire de mal : " et il le lui rendit 
 i I'entree de la salle. 
 
 ' Les assaillants ignoraient que le roi et sa famille se fiissent rendus 
 au sein de I'assemblfe ; et ceux qui defendaient le palais du cSte des 
 cours I'ignoraient de meme : on a presume que s'ils en eussent ^t^ 
 instruits le siege n'eut pas eu lieu. 
 
 ' Les Marseillais commencent par chasser de leurs postes plusieurs 
 Suisses, qui cedent sans resistance ; quelques-uns des assaillants se 
 mettent k les fusilier ; les officiers suisses, outr& de voir ainsi tomber 
 leurs soldats, et croyant, peut-Stre, que le roi etait encore aux Tuileries, 
 ordonnent k un bataillon de faire feu. Le d^sordre se met parmi les 
 agresseurs, le Carrousel est nettoye en un instant ; mais bient6t ils 
 reviennent animes de fureur et de vengeance. Les Suisses n'etaient 
 qu'au nombre de huit cents ; ils se replient dans I'int^rieur du chateau ; 
 des portes sont enfoncees par le canon, d'autres brisees k coups de 
 hache ; le peuple se pr^cipite de toutes parts dans I'interieur du palais ; 
 presque tous les Suisses sont massacres ; des nobles, fuyant par la 
 galerie qui conduit au Louvre, sont poignardes ou tu^s k coups de 
 pistolet ; on jette leurs corps par les fenetres. MM. Pallas et de 
 Marchais, huissiers de la chambre du roi, sont tu& en defendant la 
 porte de la salle du conseil ; beaucoup d'autres serviteurs du roi 
 tombent victimes de leur attacheraent pour leur maitre. Je cite ces 
 deux personnes, parce que, le chapeau enfonc^, I'epee k la main, ils 
 criaient en se defendant avec une inutile mais louable valeur : 
 ' ■ Nous ne voulons plus vivre, c'est notre poste, nous devons y mourir. " 
 M. Diet se conduisit de meme k la porte de la chambre k coucher de 
 la reine ; il ^prouva le meme sort. Mme la princesse de Tarente 
 avail heureusement fait ouvrir la porte d'entr^e de I'appartement ; sans 
 quoi, cette horrible bande, en voyant plusieurs femmes reunies dans le 
 salon de la reine, eilt pens^ qu'elle y etait, et nous edt sur-le-champ 
 massacrees, si sa fureur efit ete augmentee par la resistance. Cepen- 
 dant nous alliens toutes perir, quand un homme k longue barbe, en 
 criant de la part de Petion : Faites grdce aux femmes : ne dishonorez 
 pas la nation I Un incident particulier me mit encore plus en danger 
 
 D 2 
 
36 PARIS 
 
 que les autrcs. Dans mon trouble, je crus, un moment avant I'entr^e 
 des assaillants chez la reine, que ma soeur n'^tait pas parmi le groupe 
 des femmes qui y ^taient r^unies, et je montai dans un entresol oil je 
 supposais qu'elle s'^tait rtfugiee, pour I'engager k en descendre, 
 imaginant qu'il importait i notre salut de n'etre pas separees. Je ne 
 la trouvais pas dans cette piice ; je n'y vis que nos femmes de chambre 
 et I'un des deux heiduques de la reine, homme d'une tres-haute taille et 
 d'une physionomie tout i fait martiale. Je le vis pale et assis sur un lit ; 
 je lui criai : " Sauvez-vous, les valets de pied et nos gens le sont d^jk." 
 "Je ne lepuis,"medit cet homme, "je suis mort de peur." Commeil 
 disait ces mots, j'entends une troupe d'hororoes monter pr&ipitamment 
 I'escalier : iU se jettent sur lui, je le vols assassiner. Je cours vers 
 I'escalier, suivie de nos femmes. Les assassins quittent I'heiduque 
 pour venir k moi. Ces femmes se jettent a leurs pieds, et saisissent les 
 sabres. Le peu de largeur de I'escalier genait les assassins ; mais 
 j'avais dejk senti une main terrible s'enfoncer dans mon dos, pour 
 me saisir par mes vetements, lorsqu'on cria i bas de I'escalier : 
 "Que faites-vous Ik haut ! " L'horrible Marseillais qui allait me 
 massacrer repondit un hein dont le son ne sortira jamais de ma 
 m^nioire. L'autre voix repondit ces seuls mots : On ne tue pas les 
 femmes. 
 
 ' J'^tais k genoux, mon bourreau me lacha et me dit : Live-toi, 
 coquine, la nation te fait grdce. La grossiferet^ de ces paroles ne 
 m'empecha pas d'^prouver soudain un sentiment inexprimable qui 
 tenait presque autant k I'amour de la vie qu'k I'id^e que j'allais revoir 
 mon fils et tout ce qui m'^tait cher. Un instant auparavant, j'avais 
 moins pense k la mort que pressenli la douleur que m'allait causer le 
 fer suspendu sur ma tite. 
 
 'Cinq ou six hommes s'empar^rent de moi et de mes femmes, et, 
 nous ayant fait monter sur les parquettes plac^es devant les fen^tres, 
 nous ordonnferent de crier Vive la nation I 
 
 'Je passai par-dessus plusieurs cadavres : je reconnus celui du 
 vieux vicomte de Broves. La reine, au commencement de la nuit, 
 m'avait envoyee lui dire, ainsi qu'k un autre vieillard, qu'elle voulait 
 qu'ils se retirassent chez eux. " Nous n'avons que trop obei aux ordres 
 du roi, dans toutes les circonstances," me repondirent ces braves gens, 
 "oil il aurait fallu exposer nos jours pour le sauver ; cette fois nous 
 n'obeirons pas, et garderons seulement le souvenir des bontes de la 
 reine." 
 
 'Mme la Roche-Aymon et sa fille. Mile Pauline de Tourzel, 
 Mme de Ginestoux, dame de la Princesse de Lamballe, les autres 
 
THE LOUVRE 37 
 
 femmes de la reine et le vieux comte d'Affry, furent men^s ensemble 
 dans les prisons de I'Abbaye. — Mme Camfan, ' Memairei, ' 
 
 The palace of the Tuileries is destroyed, but the Louvre 
 still remains to us. 
 
 On the site of a hunting lodge which Dagobert had 
 built in the woods which then extended to the Seine, 
 Philippe Auguste, in 1200, erected a fortress, to which S. 
 Louis added a great hall which was 'called by his name. 
 The fortress was used as a state prison, and its position was 
 at first outside the city, in which it was enclosed in 1367. 
 From the great dungeon tower in the centre of this castle,' 
 which was called the Louvre, all the great fiefs in France 
 had their source. When the great feudatories came to take 
 or renew the feudal oath, it was there that the ceremony 
 took place. Thus when Frangois I. destroyed the great 
 tower of the Louvre in the building of his new palace, the 
 expression that the fiefs were held de la tour du Louvre was 
 changed to de la cour du Louvre.''- 
 
 The Louvie was greatly enlarged by Charles V. who 
 added many towers and surrounded it with a moat which 
 was supplied from the Seine. He made the palace into a 
 complete rectangle, always preserving the great central 
 dungeon tower. In spite, however, of his additions, space 
 was wanting in the labyrinthine apartments of the Louvre 
 for his splendid receptions, such as that of the Due de 
 
 * The prisoners in this tower included— Ferrand, Comte de Flandres, 1214 (after 
 the victory of Bouvines); Enguerrand de Coucy; Guy, Comte de Flandres, 
 1299 ; Louis, Comte de Flandres, 1322 ; Enguerrand de Marigny ; Jean IV., Due 
 de Bretagne ; Charles 11., King of Navarre ; le Captal de Buch, Jean de Grailly ; 
 and Jean II., Due d'Alengon. 
 
 ^ A fragment of the XIII. c. fortress remains in one of the walls of the Salle des 
 Cariatides. To the left of the window, concealed by a door, is a winding stmrcase 
 of the original building. 
 
38 . PARIS 
 
 Bretagne in 1388, so he only inhabited the fortress for a 
 short time, and devoted himself principally to building the 
 Hotel S. Paul, the royal residence till Charles VII. left it 
 for the neighbouring Hotel des Tournelles, which was the 
 Parisian residence of Louis XI., Charles VIIL, Louis XII. 
 and Frangois I. When the Emperor Charles V. was coming 
 to Paris, Frangois decorated the old palace of the Louvre 
 for his reception. This drew attention to its dilapidated 
 state, and he determined to rebuild it. The great tower, as 
 strong as the day it was built, took five months (1527) to 
 destroy. It was especially regretted by the populace, be- 
 cause they lost the pleasure of seeing great lords imprisoned 
 there. The cost of demolition was enormous, ' et fist ce 
 faire le roy pour appliquer le chasteau du Louvre, logis de 
 plaisance.' Under the renaissance, strongholds everywhere 
 began to make way for lieux de plaisance. The existing 
 palace was begun, under Pierre Lescot, in 1541. 
 
 ' Fran9oi5 i"', voulant avoir dans Paris un palais digne de sa magni- 
 ficence et dedaignant le vieux Louvre et l'h6tel des Tournelles, amas 
 irregulier de tournelles (tourelles) et de pavilions gothiques, avait fait 
 demolir, des 1528, la grosse tour du Louvre, ce donjon de Philippe- 
 Auguste duquel relevaient tous les fiefs du royaume. C'etait demolir 
 I'histoire elle-mSme : c'etait la monarchie de la renaissance abattant 
 la vieille royaute feodale. ' — Martin, ' Hist, de France. ' 
 
 Lescot continued his work through the twelve years' 
 reign of Henri II. The palace which he built was the 
 whole western side of the court of the Vieux Louvre, and 
 the wing which contains the Galerie d'Apollon. The pavilion 
 which connected the two wings was called Pavilion du Roi. 
 After the death of Henri II., his widow, Catherine de Medicis, 
 left the Palais des Tournelles, and came with her children 
 to live in the new palace, which she enlarged by erecting a 
 
THE LOUVRE 39 
 
 portico with rooms above it along the quay. It was whilst 
 he was at work upon these buildings that the great sculptor 
 Jean Goujon perished. On the day after the Massacre of 
 S. Bartholomew he had gone as usual to his work upon a 
 scaffold ; he thought that his art would save him, but a ball 
 from an arquebus struck him down. In these ' buildings 
 the Huguenot gentlemen, who were ' marquds k tuer,' fled 
 from chamber to chamber, and from gallery to gallery, 
 and were cut down one after another, except M. de Lezac, 
 who took refuge within the ruelle of the bed of the Princess 
 Marguerite, married six days before to the King of Navarre. 
 ' Moi,' says the queen in her memoirs, ' sentant cet homme 
 qui me tenait, je me jette k la ruelle, et lui aprfes moi, me 
 tenant toujours \ travers le corps. Je ne connaissais point 
 cet homme, et ne savais s'il venait 1^ pour m'offenser, ou si 
 les archers en voulaient k lui ou k moi. Nous crions tous 
 deux et dtions aussi effray^s I'un que I'autre.' The young 
 bridegroom, Henri de Navarre, for whom Catherine de 
 Medicis had made ' les noces vermeilles,' was amongst 
 those whom she wished to save. The queen-mother ' grilla 
 si bien, pour un matin, ses fenetres, qu'il ne put jamais 
 dchapper, comme il en avait volont^.' According to Bran- 
 tome and d'Aubignd (neither of them at Paris at the time), 
 Charles IX. stood at his chamber window, shooting down 
 those who were taking refuge in the Prd-aux-Clercs.' 
 
 The Louvre was still inconveniently small for the 
 number of persons who had to live in it. These, under 
 Henri III., included four queens — the reigning queen, 
 Louise de Vaudemont ; the queen-mother, Catherine de 
 
 * The window of the little gallery, marked by an inscription falsely recording 
 this event as having taken place there, existed at the time, but was walled up. 
 
40 PARIS 
 
 Medicis ; the Queen of Navarre, Marguerite de Valois ; and 
 Elizabeth d'Autriche, widow of Charles IX., usually known 
 as 'la reine Blanche.' When Marie de Medicis, who 
 measured palaces by the Florentine Pitti, arrived in France, 
 she could not conceal her astonishment at the inferiority of 
 the Louvre. 'Plusieurs foys,' says Cheverny, 'je lui ai ouy 
 r^p^ter depuys qu'elle ne fust jamais presqu'en toute sa 
 vie si estonnde et effrayde, croyant que ce n'estoit le Louvre, 
 ou que Ton faisoit cela pour se moquer d'elle.' 
 
 Henri IV., therefore, wished, in 1595, to unite the 
 buildings of Catherine de Medicis with the other palace 
 which she had built, and which, under the name of the 
 Tuileries, was still outside the limits of the town. For this 
 purpose, he ordered Antoine du Cerceau ^ to erect the 
 (original) Pavilion de More beyond the south extremity of 
 the Tuileries and to unite it to the Tuileries of Philibert 
 Delorme on one side, and to the Louvre on the ether, by 
 buildings which extended to the pavilion which under 
 Louis XV. took the name of de Lesdiguiferes, from a 
 neighbourmg hotel, enclosing the three arches called ■ 
 Guichets des S. Fires, by which carriages cross from the 
 banks of the Seine to the Rue de Rivoli. The porticoes of 
 Catherine de Medicis were then enclosed, and an upper story 
 added to make them harmonise with the later constructions. 
 
 From this time no one touched the Louvre till the 
 supremacy of Richelieu, who demolished all that remained 
 of the old feudal buildings (the north and east fagades) and 
 employed Antoine le Mercier to continue the palace. 
 Intending to double the dimensions of the original plan, 
 this great architect used each of the existing wings as the 
 
 * All the plans of Du Cerceau stiU exist. 
 
THE LOUVRE 41 
 
 half of a fagade for his new Louvre, and built two others on 
 the same plan, so as to make the building a perfect square. 
 Whilst the minority of Louis XIV. lasted, Anne of Austria 
 lived with her children at the Palais-Cardinal, now Palais- 
 Royal, but Levau was employed to continue the works at 
 the Louvre, and an apartment there was bestowed upon the 
 exiled Henrietta Maria of England (daughter of Henri IV.), 
 who was treated with the greatest generosity by her sister- 
 in-law. A number of hotels of the nobihty — de Bourbon, 
 de Longueville, de Villequier, d'Aumont — had hitherto occu- 
 pied the ground close to the Louvre, but those on the east 
 side were now demolished, and all the architects of France 
 were invited to compete with designs for a fagade which 
 should be of such magnificence as to satisfy Colbert, while 
 Bernini, then at the height of his fame, was summoned from 
 Italy for the same purpose. The plans chosen were those 
 of Claude Perrault, who built the east fagade, adorned with 
 twenty-eight Corinthian pillars, called the Colonnade du 
 Louvre, for Louis XIV, 1665-70. Levau died of grief be- 
 cause his plan — a very noble one — was not chosen. Still, the 
 Louvre remained unfinished, so that Parisians used to say 
 the only chance of seeing it completed would be to make it 
 over to one of the four great mendicant Orders, to hold 
 their chapters and lodge their General there. Louis XV. 
 and XVI. did nothing more than repair the buildings 
 already existing, and then came the Revolution. Even in the 
 time of Napoleon I., the space between the Louvre and the 
 Tuileries was invaded by a number of narrow, dirty streets, 
 which, with the royal stables and several private hotels, 
 destroyed the effect of the two palaces. After the Revo- 
 lution of 1848, these were swept away, and Napoleon III., 
 
42 PARIS 
 
 from the commencement of his power, determined to unite 
 the Louvre and the Tuileries into one great whole. This 
 was carried out and completed in 1857. The difference 
 of the axis of the two palaces was then cleverly concealed 
 by the arrangement of buildings which enclose the ' Square 
 du Louvre,' though the destruction of the Tuileries has 
 since rendered the design ineffectual. 
 
 Entering the Louvre from the Rue de Rivoli by one of 
 the five entrances under the Pavilion de Rohan in the north 
 fagade, we find ourselves in the Place du Carrousel of 
 Napoleon I., which is a great enlargement of the little 
 square in front of the Tuileries occupying the site of the 
 ' Jardin de Mademoiselle ' (de Montpensier), and originally 
 named from a carrousel or tournament which Louis XIV. 
 gave there in 1662. In the centre of the grille of what was 
 formerly the court of the Tuileries still stands the graceful 
 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, built in 1806, by Fontaine 
 and Percier, for Napoleon I. The car and horses which 
 surmount it are modelled in imitation of the famous horses 
 of S. Mark, restored to Venice by the Allies ; the figures and 
 reliefs commemorate the successes of the fiist emperor at 
 Austerlitz, Ulm, Presburg, Vienna, and Munich. The 
 initials and monograms of their different builders mark 
 many of the surrounding buildings. Opposite the point at 
 which we entered, is the Pavilion de Lesdiguilres, dividing 
 the renaissance Louvre of Charles IX., adorned with 
 Tuscan columns supporting mezzanini, from the later build- 
 ings continued under Louis XIV., which have no mezzanini, 
 and where the pediments rest 'on coupled Corinthian 
 columns as a stylobate. The modern buildings on the 
 north-east, occupy the site of the Hotel de Longueville, 
 
PLACE DU CARROUSEL 43 
 
 famous for the intrigues of the Fronde,^ and those on the 
 south-east beyond the entrance of the Square du Louvre 
 that of the church of S. Thomas du Louvre, which fell in 
 upon its congregation, October 15, 1739. The buildings of 
 Napoleon IIL are surrounded by statues of eminent French- 
 men. ■ All around is magnificence — 
 
 * Le palais pompeux, dont la France s'honore.' 
 
 Voltaire^ ^ Henrzade.^ 
 
 The most interesting associations of the Place du Car- 
 rousel are those which belong to the fruitless flight of the 
 royal family on June 20, 1790. 
 
 * Madame Elisabeth sortit la premiere avec 'Madame Royale, suivie, 
 k pen de distance, de Mme de Tourzel emmenant Monseigneur le 
 Dauphin. L'un des trois gardes du corps I'accompagnait. Soit 
 hasard, soit fait expres, une des sentinelles des cours, qui, en seprome- 
 nant, croisait le chemin par ou les deux princesses devaient passer, 
 tourna le dos au moment 011 il etait prfes d'elles, et allait les rencontrer. 
 Madame Koyale le reniarqua, et dit tout has k Madame Elisabeth : 
 
 ^ This famous mansion, originally called Hotel de'Vieuville, was built by Cle- 
 ment Mi^tezeau for the Marquis de Vieuville. He sold it, 1620, to the Due dc: 
 Luynes (the tyrant minister of Louis XHL), who died in the following year. His 
 widow sold it to Claude de Lorraine, Due de Chevreuse, whom she afterwards 
 married, and who received the Duke of Buckingham here when became over to 
 fetch Henrietta Maria. The duchess, celebrated in a thousand love-affairs, was 
 driven into exile by the enmity of Richelieu, and at his death only came back to be 
 again banished for a time by the influence of Mazarin. She returned, however, 
 to make her hdtel a centre for the intrigues of the Fronde, seconded by her 
 daughter, 'quiavaitles yeux capables d'embraser toute la terre ' (Mme de Motte- 
 ville), and by the Duchesse de Longueville, ' I'h^roine de .la Fronde,' who eventually 
 purchased the h8tel and gave it a new name. Her daughter-in-law, the Duchesse 
 de Nemours, bequeathed the h3tel to Henri de Bourbon, Prince de Neuchatel, 
 whose daughter brought it back by marriage into the family of Luynes. The hQtel 
 existed in a degraded condition till 1832, when it was pulled down to enlarge the 
 Place du Carrousel. Another building, demolished about the same time, was the 
 church oF S. Louis du Louvre, where a protestant congregation continued to wor- 
 ship during the great Revolution (John Moore, Journal of Residence in France, 
 December 1792), and which contained the tomb of Cardinal Fleury, the Prinie 
 Minister of Louis XV. (who had proposed to pull do^vn the Louvre and sell the 
 materials^ represented expiring in the arms of ReHgion. 
 
44 PARIS 
 
 Ma tante, nous sommes reconnues. Cependant elles sortirent des cours 
 sans etre remarquees, et se rendirent, suivies, comme je I'ai deji dit, de 
 Mnie de Tourzel et du jeune prince, sur le Jetit-Carrousel, au cour 
 de la rue de I'Echelle, ou M. de Fersen les attendait avec une voiture. 
 C'^tait un carrosse de remise, ressemblant assez, par sa forme et les 
 chevaux qui le menaient, k ce qu'on appelle k Paris un fiacre ; il 
 I'avait lou6 dans un quartier eloigne, et c'4tait lui qui servait de 
 cocher, habille comme le sent ces especes de cochers. II etait si 
 bien d^guis^, que pendant qu'il attendait, ayant d^ji dans sa 
 voiture les deux princesses, Monseigneur le Dauphin et Mme de 
 Tourzel, un fiacre vide s'^tant arrets prte de lui, le cocher, qui 
 croyait parler a I'un de ses camarades, I'atlaqua de conversation sur ce 
 qui pent en faire le sujet ordinaire entre gens de cette espece : elle 
 dura assez longtemps, et M. de Fersen la soutint avec assez de pre- 
 sence d'esprit dans le jargon de cocher de remise, pour ne donner 
 aucun soupfon k son confrere. II s'en dftarrassa apres lui avoir 
 donn^ une prise de tabac dans une mauvaise tabati^re qu'il avait. Pen 
 de temps aprfes, le roi arriva, accompagne du second garde du corps ; 
 il y eut un assez long intervalle entre sa sortie et celle de la premiere 
 bande, mais elle ne fut pas moins heureuse, quoiqu'une de ses boucles de 
 souliers s'etant cassee assez pres du sentinelle de laporte du Carrousel, il 
 fut oblig^ de la raccommoder presque sous ses yeux. La reine, qui 
 devait sortir la derniere, se fit attendre plus d'une demi-heure, et 
 donna bien des inquietudes aux voyageurs. On lui avait laiss^ le 
 troisi^me garde du corps pour Taccompagner et lui donner le bras. 
 Tout alia bien jusqu'k la grande porte de la cour royale ; mais, au 
 moment ou elle sortait, elle voit venir la voiture de M, de la Fayette, 
 avec des flambeaux et ses gardes ordinaires ; il rentrait chez lui, et 
 traversait le Carrousel pour gagner le Pont-Royal. La reine avait un 
 chapeau qui lui couvrait le visage. La nuit etait fort obscure : elle 
 se rangea pres de la muraille, pour laisser passer la voiture de M. de 
 la Fayette. Apris avoir echapp^ a ce danger, elle dit a son garde du 
 corps de la conduire sur le Petit- Carrousel, au coin de la rue de 
 I'Echelle, c'est-k-dire k deux cents pas de I'endroit oil ils etaient. Son 
 guide connaissait encore moins Paris qu'elle ; il 4tait trop dangereux de 
 demander le chemin, si pres de la porte des Tuileries ; ils tournferent 
 au hasard k droite, tandis qu'ils devaient prendre k gauche, passerent 
 les guichets du Louvre, travers^rent le Pont-Royal, et errerent assez 
 longtemps sur les quais et dans la rue du Bac. II fallut enfin se r^soudre 
 a demander leur chemin. Une sentinelle du pont le leur indiqua : il 
 leui fallut revenir sur leurs pas, repasser sous les guichets, et longer les 
 
PLACE DU CARROUSEL 45 
 
 cours des Tuileries pour arriver k la rue de I'Echelle. lis parvinrent 
 enfia i la voiture, sans autre accident que du temps perdu. Mais i'eu 
 ^tait un trop r^el ; le prix de chaque minute ^tait incalculable. 
 
 ' Toute I'illustre caravane ^tant r6unie, on se mit en route pour aller 
 joindre la voiture qui attendait au delk de la barriire Saint-Martin.' — 
 Weber, ' MSmoires. ' 
 
 Under the Consulate, the Place du Carrousel was the 
 scene of the weekly reviews of Napoleon I. 
 
 ' C'^tait un spectacle curieux que celui de ces parades, surtout 
 celles du consulat. Sous I'empire, elles pouvaient etre plus magni- 
 fiques ; mais en 1800, leur splendeur ^tait tout nationale ; c'^tait la 
 gloire de la France qu'on voyait dans ces escadrons, ces bataillons, qui, 
 soit qu'ils fussent conscrits ou vieux soldats, faisaient autant trembler 
 r^tranger qui les regardait des fenetres du palais.' — MSmoires de la 
 Duchesse <f Ahranth. 
 
 The Place was constantly used for military pageants 
 under the first empire, and of these none took a greater 
 hold upon the spectators than the reviews of the Old Guard 
 by Napoleon I. 
 
 ' C'^tait dans ce vaste carre que se tenaient les regiments de la 
 vieille garde qui allaient Stre passes en revue. lis presentaient en face 
 du palais d'imposantes lignes bleues de vingt rangs de profondeur. 
 Au delk de I'enceinte, et dans le Carrousel, se trouvaient sur d'autres 
 lignes parall^es plusieurs regiments d'infanterie et de cavalerie prets, 
 au moindre signal, k manosuvrer pour passer sous I'arc triomphal qui 
 erne le milieu de la grille, et sur le haut duquel se voyaient, a cette 
 ^poque, les magnifiques chevaux de Venise. La musique des regi- 
 ments avait iyi se placer de chaque c&te des galeries du Louvre, et ces 
 deux orchestres militaires y ^taient masques par les lanciers polonais 
 de service. Une grande partie du carr^ sabU restait vide comme une 
 ar^ne pr^par^e pour les niouvements de tous ces corps silencieux. Ces 
 masses, disposees avec la symetrie de I'art militaire, reil&hissaient les 
 rayons du soleil par le feu triangulaire de dix mille baionnettes 
 etincelantes. L'air agitait tous les plumets des soldats en les faisant 
 ondoyer comme les arbres d'une forgt courbes sous un vent impetueux. 
 Ces vieilles bandes, muettes et brillantes, offraient mille contrastes de 
 couleurs dus \ la diversity des uniformes, des jiarements, des armes et 
 
46 PARIS 
 
 des ajguillettes. Cet immense tableau, miniature d'un champ de 
 bataille avant le combat, etait admirablement encadr^, avec tous ses 
 accessoires et ses accidents bizarres, par ces hauts batiments majes- 
 tueux, dont chefs et soldats imitaient en ce moment I'immobilite. 
 
 ' Un enthousiasme indescriptible eclatait dans I'attente de la multi- 
 tude. La France allait faire ses adieux k Napol&n, i. la veille d'une 
 campagne dont le moindre citoyen prevoyait les dangers. 
 
 ' L'horloge du chateau sonna une demi-heure. En ce moment 
 les bourdonnements de la foule cess^rent, et le silence devint si pro- 
 fond, que Ton eut entendu la parole d'un enfant. 
 
 ' Ce fut alors que ceux, qui sefflblaient ne vivre que des yeux, 
 purent distinguer un bruit d'^perons, un cliquetis d'ep^es tout particu- 
 Hers, qui retentit sous le sonore p&istyle du palais. 
 
 ' Un petit homme, vetu d'un uniforme vert, d'un pantalon blanc, 
 et chaussd de bottes a I'ecuyere, parut tout k coup en gardant sur sa 
 tSte un chapeau ^ trois comes aussi prestigieux qu'il I'etait lui-meme. 
 Un large ruban rouge de la Legion d'Honneur flottait sur sa poitrine. 
 Une petite epee ^tait a son c&te. 
 
 ' II fut aper9u par tout le monde et de tous les points k la fois. 
 
 ' A son aspect, les tambours battirent aux champs, et les musiques 
 debut^rent par une phrase dont I'expression guerri^re deploya tous les 
 instruments, depuis lagrosse caisse jusqu'a la plus douce des flfltes. A 
 leurs sons belliqueux les imes tressaillirent, ' les drapeaux salu^rent, 
 les soldats port^rent les armes par un mouvement unanime et 
 r^gulier, qui agita les fusils retentissants depuis le premier rang jusqu' 
 au dernier qu'on put apercevoir dans le Carrousel ; des mots de com- 
 manderaent se r6p6th'ent comme des &hos, et des oris de : Vive 
 I'Empereur ! . . . furent pousses par la multitude enthousiasmee ; tout 
 remua, tout s'ebranla, tout frissonna. 
 
 ' L'homme entoure de tant d'amour, d'enthousiasme, de devoue- 
 ment, de vosux, pour qui le soleil meme avait chass^ les nuages du 
 ciel, resta immobile sur son cheval, k trois pas en avant du petit 
 escadron dore qui le suivait, ayant le grand-marechal k sa gauche, le 
 marechal de service a sa droite. Au sein de tant d'emotions excitees 
 par lui, aucun trait de son visage ne s'^mut. 
 
 ' Oh ! inon Dieu, oui. II ^tait comme 9a a Wagram, au milieu du 
 feu, et k la Moscowa, parmi les morts.' — Balzac, ' Le Rendez-vous.' 
 
LE MUStE DU LOUVRE 
 
 M 
 
 The first French sovereign who formed a collection of 
 pictures was Frangois I. This was enormously increased, 
 under Louis XIV., by Colbert, who bought for a ridiculously 
 small sum the greater part of the collection of pictures and 
 drawings of Charles I. of England, of which the original 
 purchaser was Everard Jabach the banker, who was after- 
 wards compelled by poverty to re-sell them. This became 
 the germ of the existing collection, enriched under Louis 
 XV. by the sale of the Prince de Carignan and by works 
 ordered from the best French artists of the time, and, under 
 Louis XVI., by a collection of Flemish pictures. Under the 
 Republic, the pictures at Versailles were added to those of 
 Paris, and the collections were offered to the public as 
 Le Museum de la Republique. With the Italian campaigns 
 of Napoleon I., such a vast mass of works of art deluged 
 Paris as even the immense galleries of the Louvre were 
 quite insufficient to contain. 
 
 ' Sous quels debris honteux, sous quel anias rustique 
 
 On laisse ensevelir ces chefs-d'oeuvres divins ! 
 Quel barbare a mSI6 sa bassesse gothique 
 
 A toute la grandeur des Grecs et des Romains ! ' 
 
 Voltaire. 
 
 ' Vous avez enrichi le Musdum de Paris de plus de cinq 
 cents objets, chefs-d'oeuvre de I'ancienne et de la nouvelle 
 Italic ; et qu'il a fallu trente sifecles pour produire,' said 
 Napoleon to his soldiers after the taking of Mantua. But 
 nearly the whole of this collection was restored to its 
 rightful owners in 1815. Under Louis Philippe and the 
 second empire a vast number of bequests added greatly to 
 the wealth of the original Museum. 
 
48 PARIS 
 
 The collections of the Louvre are of various kinds — 
 paintings, drawings, engravings, ancient sculpture, sculpture 
 of the middle ages and renaissance, modern French sculp- 
 ture, Assyrian antiquities, Egyptian antiquities, Greek and 
 Etruscan antiquities, Algerine museum, marine museum, 
 ethnographical museum, collection of enamels and jewels, 
 the Sauvageot museum, the Campana museum, the La Caze 
 museum, the Oriental museum, the Le Noir museum. It is 
 not possible to visit many of these collections separately 
 without crossing and re-crossing others. As those who are 
 only a short time in Paris will prefer to take the more 
 important collections on the first floor first, we will begin 
 with those, entered on the right of the Pavilion Sully, which 
 faces the Arc du Carrousel in the centre of the front of 
 the Louvre. The staircase (in part of the building of 
 Franjois I.) is due to Henri II., and bears his chiffre, arms, 
 and emblems frequently repeated ; its sculptures are by 
 Jean Goujon. Reaching the first floor, a door on the right 
 opens into the Salle des Seances, containing the collections 
 bequeathed to the Louvre by M. Louis La Caze, 1870. 
 Each room should be visited from right to left. We may 
 notice in this room — 
 
 221. Largilliire : Portrait of President de Laage. 
 
 165. Boucher : Female Portrait. 
 
 260. Watteau: ' Gilles'— of the Comedie Italienne. 
 
 *242. Rigmtd ; Portrait of De Cr^qui, Due de Lesdigui^res. 
 
 78. N. Maes, 1648 : GracS before Meat. 
 
 16. Tintoret : Susanna and the Elders. 
 
 18. Tintoret : Portrait of Pietro Mocenigo, 
 
 32. Ribera, 1642 : ' Le Pied-Bot ' — a young beggar. 
 
 170. Chardin : Children's grace. 
 
 37. Velasquez : Portrait of the Infanta Maria Theresa, afterwards 
 Queen of France. 
 
SALON DES SEPT CHEMINEES 
 
 49 
 
 98. Rembratidt, 1651 : Male Portrait. 
 
 17. Tintoret. Virgin and Child, with SS. Francis and Sebastian, 
 and a donor in adoration. From the gallery of Cardinal 
 Fesch. 
 243. Rigaud : Portrait of President de Berulle, 
 
 The pictures of Watteau here, and in the rooms devoted 
 to the French school, are chiefly interesting as the best 
 representations we possess of the aristocratic society of 
 France in the time of Louis XV. and Mme de Pompa- 
 dour— 
 
 ' A voir cette society brodee, poudre et musquee, dont Watteau 
 nous a laiss^ un si aimable' portrait, qui eut pu croire qu'elle portait 
 dans ses ilancs la plus grande et la plus fiirieuse revolution que 
 I'histoire puisse raconter ? Comment tant d'energie et de colere 
 pouvaient-elles couver sous cette enveloppe d'esprit, de galanterie et« 
 de gaiety ? ' — Balzac, ' Six Rois de France. ' 
 
 The next room, Salle de Henri 11.,^ only contains some 
 pictures by French artists, of no great importance, though 
 No. 47 is an interesting portrait of Descartes, by Bourdon. 
 
 The Salon des Sept Cheminees (forming part of the 
 Pavilion du Roi, and once inhabited by the Cardinal de 
 Guise, uncle of Marie Stuart) is devoted to the French 
 school. Its works are exceedingly stiff and mannered. Yet 
 there are few visitors to the Louvre, especially young 
 visitors, who have not in time become interested in these 
 pictures ; therefore we may especially mention — 
 
 240. Girard : Portraits of M. Isabey and his daughter. 
 277. Cuirin : The Return of Marius Sextus from Exile. He 
 finds his daughter weeping by his dead wife. Collection 
 of Charles X. 
 1252. Girodet : Attala borne to the Tomb. Bought from Chateau- 
 briand for 50,000 francs. 
 236. Gh'ard : Psyche receives the first Kiss of Love. From the 
 
 E 
 
5b PARIS 
 
 collection of Louis XVIII. Girard was the most popular 
 painter of the Restoration. Three sovereigns — of France, 
 Russia, and Prussia — sat to him on the same day. 
 
 802. Mme Lehrun, 1786: Portrait of Mme Mole Raymond, of the 
 Com^die Frangaise. From the collection of Napoleon III. 
 
 156. David : Portrait of the artist as a young man. David gave 
 this portrait to Isabey ; M. Eugene Isabey gave it to the 
 Louvre. 
 83. Mme Lebrun : Portrait of the artist and her daughter— a 
 lovely picture. From the collection of Louis Philippe. 
 
 242. Giricault : Scene on the Raft of the Medusa, when, on the 
 twelfth day after its shipwreck, the brig Argus appears on the 
 horizon. From the collection of Charles X. This picture 
 is said to have inaugurated modern emotional French art. 
 *I59. David, 1805 : Portrait of Pius VII. The Pope holds a letter 
 on the back of which is inscribed ' Pio VII. bonarum 
 artium patrono.' A grand portrait, executed during the 
 residence of the Pope at the Tuileries. 
 *l6o. David: Portrait of Mme Recamier., A masterpiece of the 
 artist. 
 
 ' Toute sa personne ^tait un compost de grace naive, de finesse et 
 de bonte ; et tout cela uni ensemble, accord^ par cet attrait qui forme 
 seul le charme par lequel on est aim&, C'etait son ame qui animait 
 ses yeux, et s'y raontrait i. travers de longues paupi^res baissees, 
 ainsi que sur le front rougissant sous le bandeau de limon, seule parure, 
 pendant longues ann^es, d'une si charmante tete. Dans le sourire qui 
 entr'ouvrit si souvent les l^vres rosees, il fallait egaleraent voir la joie 
 naive d'une jeune et ravissante creature, heureuse de plaire, heureuse 
 d'etre aimee, ne voy'ant que des joies dans la nature et r^pondant au 
 salut d'amour qui I'accueillait en tons lieux par une expression de tacite 
 bienveillance. Elle remerciait la vie d'etre si belle et sijoyeuse.' — 
 Mimoires de la Duchesse tPAbrantis. 
 
 459. Prud'hon, 1808 : Justice and Divine Vengeance pursuing 
 
 Crime. Ordered for the Criminal Court in the Palais de 
 
 Justice, by Frochot, prefet de la Seine. 
 833. Prud'hon, 1796 : Portrait of a Girl (Marie-Marguerite 
 
 Lagnier). From the collection of Kapoleon III. 
 251. Girodet : Endymion Asleep. Painted in the Villa Medici at 
 
 Rome in 1792, From the collection of Louis XVIII, 
 
GALERIE D'APOLLON 5.1 
 
 149. David, 1799: The Sabines; designed in the prisons of the 
 Luxembourg during the Great Revolution. 
 
 ' Au fort de son travail, le guichetier arrive suivi de gens armes. 
 " On demande le citoyen David au tribunal," dit une voix rauque. 
 David continue sans rien r^pondre. Heureusement le guichetier avail 
 ete sobre en ce jour-lk, et les hommes qui I'accompagnaient n'^taient 
 point par trop ivres. Sans quoi notre grand peintre aurait pu avoir 
 le sort d'Archim^de. "Allons, citoyen," reprend le porte-clefs, " tu 
 grifibnneras la niuraille i ton retour'; le tribunal attend," " Je ne 
 demande qu'une heure," repond David en se retournant k peine : " mais 
 il me la faut, je n'ai pas le temps k present. " Le geolier sortit tout 
 stupide : la reponse fut port^e au tribunal : on mentionne le tout dans 
 un proces-verbal. Ainsi I'artiste faisait-il faire antichambre au 
 bourreau. Par bonheur, ce dernier attendit en vain.' — FMix 
 Jonciircs. 
 
 Passing through a room containing Etruscan jewels, 
 from the left of the circular vestibule, we enter the 
 Galerie d'ApoUon. At its portal is a splendid XVII. c. 
 grille brought from the chateau of Mansart at Maisons-sur- 
 Seine. 
 
 This magnificent gallery, decorated with paintings by 
 Lebrun, and stucco ornaments by Girardon and other 
 great masters, contains a collection of gems and jewels. 
 Amongst historic relics, we may notice — 
 
 Case I. — 
 
 Reliquary of the arm of Charlemagne. Early XIIL c. 
 
 Reliquary of S. Henri. End of XII. c. 
 
 ' Cassette de S. Louis.' 
 
 Crystal vase of Eleanor of Aqultaine. XII. c. 
 
 Precious objects from the altar of the S. Esprit. 
 
 Case III.— 
 
 Crown used at the coronation of Louis XV. 
 Casket of Anne of Austria. 
 
52 PARIS 
 
 Case VII. [in a central window). — 
 
 Bed-candlestick and mirror of Marie de Medicis, given by the 
 Republic of Venice on her marriage with Henri IV. 
 
 Livre d'heures of Catherine de Medicis, vsdth miniatures repre- 
 senting all the family of Valois. 
 
 Case at the end of room on the left. — 
 
 Sword and spurs of Charlemagne. 
 
 Hand of Justice and Sceptre, used at the coronations of Kings 
 
 of France. 
 Clasp of the mantle and ring of S. Louis. 
 Reliquary of Jeanne d'Evreux, given to the Abbey of S. Denis 
 
 in 1329. 
 Buckler and helmet of Charles IX. in enamelled gold. 
 
 Case at the end of room on the right. — 
 Armour of Henri II. 
 
 The Salon Carre contains the masterpieces of all the 
 different schools collected in the Louvre — 
 
 ' Qui sur tous les beaux arts a fonde sa gloire.' ' 
 
 Thus, every picture in this room is more or less worthy 
 of study ; we must at least notice — 
 
 \st Wall right of entrance. — 
 
 426. Perugino (Pietro Vannucci) : Madonna and Child adored by 
 Angels. From the collection of the King of Holland. An 
 early work of the master. 
 
 380. Andrea del Sarto (d'Agnolo), 1487-1553 : Holy Family. 
 Collection of Fran9ois I. 
 
 ' Chose singuli^re, ce peintre si malheureux en reality, donne k ses 
 figures un air de bonheur candide et de bont^ naive ; une sorte de joie 
 innocente retrousse le coin de leurs levres, et elles rayonnent illumin^es 
 d'une serenite douce dans I'atmosphire tiede et color^e dont I'artiste 
 les entoure. On peint son reve et non sa vie.' — Thhphile Gautier, 
 
 ' Voltaire. 
 
SALON CARRA 53 
 
 59. Gisn/z'/a 5e/&«8 (elder brother of Giovanni), 1426-1 507 : Two 
 male Portraits. From the collection of Louis XIV. 
 100. Paul Veronese (Paolo Cagliari), 1528-88 : Jupiter annihilating 
 Crime. Brought from the ceiling of the Hall of the Council 
 of Ten in the Ducal Palace at Venice, to decorate the 
 chamber of Louis XIV. at Versailles. 
 
 ' Les Crimes sont la Rebellion, la Trahison, la Luxure, et la Con- 
 cussion, punis par le Conseil des Dix, et Paul V&on^se les a carac- 
 t^rises d'une mani^re ingteieuse et po^tique. II peignit ce plafond 
 apr^s un voyage i Rome, ou il vit I'antique et Michel-Ange. ' — 
 Thiophile Gautier. 
 
 *446. Titian (Tiziano Vecelli), 1477-1576 : The Entombment. 
 
 A replica of the noble picture -at Venice, which has 
 
 belonged in turn to the Duke of Mantua, Charles I. of 
 
 England, and Louis XIV. 
 536. Herrera (Francisco de), 1576— 1656 : S. Basil dictating his 
 
 Rule. From the collection of Marshal Soult. 
 *4I0. Rembrandt (van Ryn), 1608-69 '• The Carpenter's Home. 
 
 Signed 1640. 
 
 ' Rembrandt prend pour fond un humble interieur hoUandais avec 
 ses murs bruns de ton, sa chemin^e k hotte perdue dans I'ombre et sa 
 fen^tre etroite par laquelle penetre un rayon de lumi^re a travers les 
 vitres jaunes ; il penche une mfere sur le berceau d'un enfant, une 
 mere, rien de plus, avec sa gorge illumin^e d'une fenetre oblique ; 
 pres d'elle, une vieille matrone, et i. cot^ de la fenetre un menuisier 
 qui travaille et rabote quelques pieces de bois. Telle est sa maniere 
 de comprendre la Vierge, sainte Anne, I'enfant Jesus et saint Joseph. 
 II rend la scene plus intime, plus humalne, plus triviale, si vous 
 voulez, qu'on ne I'a jamais peinte. Vous 6tes libre de n'y voir que la 
 pauvre famille d'un menuisier, mais le rayon qui frappe le berceau de 
 I'enfant Jesus montre bien que c'est un Dieu, et que de cet humble 
 berceau jaillira la lumi^re du monde.' — Thiophile Gautier, 
 
 'A rustic interior. Mary, seated in the centre, is suckling her 
 Child. S. Anne, a fat Flemish grandame, has been reading the 
 volume of the Scriptures, and bends forward in order to remove the 
 covering, and look in the Infant's face. A cradle is near. Joseph is 
 seen at work in the background.' — Jameson, ' Legends of the Madonna.^ 
 
 370. Adrian van Ostade : The Schoolmaster. Signed 1662. 
 Collection of Louis XVI. 
 
54 PARIS 
 
 325. Guido Reni, 1575-1642 : Deianira and the Centaur Nessus. 
 
 Collection of Louis XIV. 
 * Unnumbered. Perugino (long attributed to Raffaelle) : Apollo and 
 
 Maisyas. An exquisitely beautiful picture. From the 
 
 Palazzo Litta at Milan. 
 Un. Jehan Percal, atjehan de Paris : Madonna and the Donor. 
 
 2nd {Right) Wall. 
 
 434. jV. Poussin : S. Francis Xavier raising a Girl to Life at 
 Cangorima in Japan. Painted 1640. Collection of 
 Louis XV. 
 
 419. Rembrandt : Portrait of a Woman. 1654. 
 
 526. Girard Terburg : A Soldier offering Gold to a Young Woman. 
 Collection of Louis XVI. 
 
 293. Gabriel Metsu : An Officer receiving the Visit of a Lady. 
 .89. Philippe de Champaigne, 1 602-74 : His own Portrait. His 
 birth-place, Brussels, is seen in the background. Painted 
 1668. 
 *I2I. Gerard Dan, 1598-1674 : The Woman with the Dropsy. 
 Signed 1663. This picture was bought by the Elector 
 Palatine for 30,000 florins, and given by him to Prince 
 Eugtee. At the death of the Prince, it was placed in the 
 Royal Gallery at Turin. At the moment of his abdication, 
 Charles Emmanuel IV. gave it to Clausel, Adjutant-General 
 of the army of Italy, in gratitude for the loyalty with which 
 he had carried out the mission entrusted to him. Clausel 
 gave it to the French nation. 
 
 229. Sebastian del Piombo (Sebastiano Luciani), 1485-1547 : The 
 Visitation. Signed 1521. The design has been attributed 
 to Michelangelo. 
 87. Bronzino (Agnolo di Cosimo), 1502-1572 : Portrait of a 
 Sculptor. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 *539. Murillo (Bartholom^ Esteban), 1616-82 : The Immaculate 
 Conception. Bought, 1852, from the heirs of Marsha. 
 Soult, for 615,500 francs. 
 
 *96. Paul Veronese : The Supper at the House of Simon the 
 Phari.see. Painted 1570-75 for the refectory of the Servi at 
 Venice, and given by the Republic to Louis XIV. in 1665. 
 This is only one of four great 'Cenas' painted by the 
 master. 
 
SALON CARRt 55 
 
 ' Ces quatre c^nes, merveilleuses agapes de la peinture, se rencon- 
 tr^rent ensemble ci Paris en I'an vii. et viii. Prodigieux spectacle 
 dont on ne voit pas que I'art de cette epoque ait beaucoup profit^ sous 
 le rapport de la couleur.' — Thhphile Gautier. 
 
 *452. Titian : Alfonso I. of Ferrara (fourth husband of Lucrezia 
 Borgia), and Laura de' Dianti, first his mistress, afterwards 
 his wife, whom he called ' Eustochia ' — the happy choice. 
 From the collection of Charles I. , afterwards of Louis XIV. 
 
 *323. Incognito (probably Franciabigio) : Portrait of a Young Man. 
 In the Pitti Palace at Florence is an almost similar portrait 
 by Franciabigio. 
 
 ' A sombre portrait of a young man standing, with his elbow on 
 a ledge. His hollow eyes are sunk under a marked bony brow. His 
 hair, cap, and dress, are black. The forms of the face and hands are 
 scant in flesh, and broken in contour, the cavities and retreating parts 
 in deep unfathomable shadow.' — Crowe and Cavakaselle. 
 
 82. Paris Bordone, 1 500-70 ; Portrait. 
 202. Domenico Chirlandajo, 1449-94 '■ The Visitation. An ad- 
 mirable picture from S. Maria degli Angeli at Florence. 
 *363. Raffaalk : Madonna and Child. ' La Vierge au Voile ' or 
 'au Diademe.' The Madonna lifts a veil to show the 
 Infant to S. John, who kneels in adoration. This picture 
 belonged to Ph^lypeaux, Marquis de la Vrilli^re, then to 
 the Comte de Toulouse, and afterwards to the Prince de 
 Carignan, who sold it to Louis XV. 
 *462. Lionardo da Vinci, 1452 1519 : Portrait of Mona Lisa 
 ('La Joconde') wife of Francesco del Giocondo, the 
 . friend of the artist. This portrait, a miracle of painting, 
 in which the art of portraiture has probably approached 
 nearest to perfection, occupied the artist four years, and he 
 then pronounced it unfinished. A thousand explanations have 
 been given of this ' sphinx of beauty. ' The picture was 
 bought by rran9ois I. 
 150. Vandyke : Portraits of Jean Grusset Richardot, President 
 of the Privy Council of the Netherlands, and his son. 
 Sometimes attributed to Rubens. Collection of Louis XVI. 
 543. Murillo : The Holy Family. The Virgin seated, holds the 
 Holy Child, to whom S. John, staading by the kneeling S. 
 Elizabeth, presents a cross. Collection of Louis XVI. 
 
56 PARIS 
 
 121. AnnihaU Caracci, 1560-1609: Appearance of the Virgin to 
 SS. Luke and Catherine. Painted for the cathedral of 
 Reggio. 
 *l62. Van Eyck, 1390-1441 : 'La Vierge au Donateur.' The 
 Holy Child blesses the kneeling old man, who ordered 
 this picture as an ex-voto ; an angel crowns the Madonna. 
 Bought by Francois I. from the Duke of Urbino. 
 
 ' The Virgin is seated on a throne, holding in her arms the infant 
 Christ, who has a globe in his left hand, and extends the right in the 
 act of benediction. The Virgin Is attired as a queen, in a magnificent 
 robe falling in ample folds around her, and trimmed with jewels ; an 
 angel, hovering with outstretched wings, holds a crown over her head. 
 On the left of the picture, a votary, in the dress of a Flemish burgo- 
 master, kneels before a prie-dieu, on which is an open book ; and with 
 clasped hands adores the Mother and her Child. The locality repre- 
 sents a gallery or portico paved with marble, and sustained by pillars 
 in a fantastic Moorish style. The whole picture is quite exquisite for 
 the delicacy of colour and execution.' — -Jameson, 'Legends of the 
 Madonna. ' 
 
 447. Nicholas Poussin, 1650 : A noble portrait of the artist, aged 56. 
 *364. Raffaelk : The Holy Family. 
 
 *368. RajIfaeUe: S. Michael, painted, 1504, for Guidobaldo di 
 Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino. 
 
 123. Annibale Caracci: Pieta. 
 
 Wall of Exit — 
 
 87. Philippe de Champaigtie : Portrait of Cardinal Richelieu. 
 From the Hotel de Toulouse. 
 *365. Raffaelle : Holy Family. The Madonna holds up the Child 
 in his cradle.; S. Elizabeth presents-the little S. John. 
 
 ' In care and uniformity of execution, in fulness and grandeur of 
 the nude, in breadth and delicacy of drapery, in lightness and freedom 
 of motion, and in powerful effects of colour, this work approaches most 
 nearly to the Transfiguration. — Waagen. 
 
 375, School of Raffaelle \ Abundance — evidently executed under 
 
 the direction of Raffaelle. 
 232. Z«/«j (Bernardino), c. 1530: Salome, with the head of John 
 
 the Baptist. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 
SALON CARRi 57 
 
 *363. Raffadk : ' La Belle Jardiniire,' 1507. The Madonna sits 
 amongst flowering shrubs ; the Infant Christ stands at 
 her knee ; S. John kneels. The picture was painted by 
 Raffaelle for the city of Siena, and bought by Francois I. 
 It h£is been injured in parts, and over-painted. 
 
 394. Andrea Solaria, ob. c. 1530 : ' La Vierge k I'oreiller vert' — 
 named from the pillow upon which the Child is lying. This 
 picture, perhaps from a drawing of Lionardo, was given by 
 Marie de Medicis to the convent of the Cordeliers at Blois, 
 whence it passed to the gallery of Cardinal Mazarin. 
 79. Philippe de Champaigne : The Dead Christ. From the 
 church of Port Royal. 
 
 301. Jouvenet: The Descent from the Cross, 1697. 
 
 ' Jouvenet, qui rappelle en quelque mani^re la Verontee par I'^tendue 
 de ses compositions, artiste grave et sage avec une certaine majesty, qui 
 est k Poussin et a Lesueur ce que sont les Carraches et le Dominiquin 
 k Leonard et k Raphael. ' — Henri Martin. 
 
 477. Rigaud (Hyacinthe), 1659-1743. Portrait of Jacques-B^- 
 nigne Bossuet, Bishop of Meaux ; painted for his family, 
 afterwards in the collection of Louis XVIII. 
 
 288, 289. Memling (Hans), flourished 1470-1484: SS. John 
 Baptist and Mary Magdalene. From the gallery of Luclen 
 Bonaparte. 
 
 208. Holbein. {Hans) le Jeum, 1498-1554: Portrait of Erasmus. 
 Collection of Charles I., afterwards of Louis XIV. 
 *459. Lionardo da Vinci : Madonna and Child with S. Anne — ' La 
 Sainte Anne. " An authentic and important picture, brought 
 from Italy by Cardinal de Richelieu, and taken from the 
 Palais Cardinal to the collection of Louis XIV. The 
 sketches for this picture are at Windsor. 
 37. Antonello da Messina : Male Portrait. From the Palazzo 
 Martinengo at Venice, afterwards in the Galerie Pourtalis. 
 
 •Une merveille, un chef-d'oeuvre, un miracle de la peinture.' — ' 
 ThSophile Gautier. 
 
 46. Giiercino (Giovanni Francesco Barbierl), 1591-1666 : The 
 Patron Saints of Modena — Geraignano, George, J. Baptist, 
 and Peter Martyr. Ordered by the Duke of Modena in 
 1 65 1 for the church of S. Pietro. 
 
S8 PARIS 
 
 Left Wall— 
 
 433. N. Poussin : The Vision of St. Paul. Collection of Scarron, 
 afterwards of Louis XIV. 
 
 523. Lesueur (Eustacbe), 1617-1655 : Appearance of S. Scho- 
 lastica to S. Benedict. From the Abbey of Marmoutiers, 
 near Tours. 
 
 433. Rubens (Peter Paul), 1577-1640 : Tomyris, Queen of Scythia, 
 causes the head of Cyrus to be plunged into a bath of blood. 
 Collection of Louis XIV. A repetition of subject, somewhat 
 altered, is in the gallery of Lord Darnley, at Cobham in 
 Kent. 
 *395- Po-^i-l Veronese : The Feast of Cana. A picture 30 feet 
 wide, from the refectory of the monastery of S. Giorgio at 
 Venice. An important picture, if only from the portraits 
 introduced, including' Francis I., Eleanore of Austria, and 
 Charles V. Amongst the group of musicians are Titian and 
 Tintoret, Bassano, and Paul Veronese himself. 
 
 ' The scene is a brilliant atrium, surrounded by majestic pillars. 
 The tables at which the guests are seated form three sides of a parallelo- 
 gram ; the guests are supposed to be almost entirely contemporary 
 portraits, so that the figures of Christ and the Virgin, of themselves 
 sufficiently Insignificant, entirely sink In comparison. Servants with 
 splendid vases are seen in the foreground, with people looking on from 
 raised balustrades, and from the loggie and roofs of distant houses. 
 The most remarkable feature is a group of musicians in the centre in 
 front, round a table ; also portraits — Paul Veronese himself is playing 
 the violoncello, Tintoretto a similar instrument, the grey-haired Titian, 
 in a red damask robe, the contra-bass. ' —.A«^/«;'. 
 
 ' Dans cette gigantesque composition, Paul V&on^se a Introdult les 
 portraits d'un grande nombre de personnages contemporains celebres. 
 Une tradition ecrite, conserv^e dans le couvent de Saint-Georges 
 majeur, ou les Noces de Cana ^taient primitivement placees, et commu- 
 niqude i Zanetti, en indique les noms. Selon ce clef, I'epoux, assis a 
 gauche de la table, serait don Alphonse d'Avalos, marquis du Guast. 
 Un n^gre, debout de Fautre cot^, lui offre une coupe du vin miraculeux. 
 La jeune femme, placee a c&te du marquis, representerait Eleancre 
 d'Autriche, reine de France. Derrifere elle, un fou, bizarrement 
 colffe du bonnet k grelots, passe la tete entre deux colonnes. Tout 
 pres de la jeune femme, on voit Francois I' ; ensuite vient la reine 
 d'Angleterre, Marie, vetue d'une robe jaune. Plus loin, Soliman I', 
 
SALON CARRt 59 
 
 empereur des Turcs, ne paralt nuUeraent surpris de se trouver aux noces 
 de Cana, k quelques pas de J^sus-Christ ; il a, du reste, k qui parler. 
 Un prince n^gre, descendant sans doute du roi mage abyssinien ou du 
 Pretre-Jean, parle k des serviteurs, tandis que Vittoria Colonna, mar- 
 quise de la Pescaire, michonne le bout d'un cure-dent : et, 4 Tangle en 
 retour de la table, I'empereur Charles Quint, sans souci de la chrono- 
 logie, porte tranquillement au coUIordre de la Toison-d'Or.' — Thhphils 
 Gautier. 
 
 *I9. Correggio : Marriage of S. Catherine. Mazarin vainly tried 
 to persuade the Barberini family of Rome to sell him this 
 picture, which was constantly refused. At last he induced 
 Anne of Austria to ask for it, when it was reluctantly given 
 up to her entreaties, and was soon transferred by her to the 
 Palais Mazarin, to the great mortification of the donors. 
 After the death of Mazarin, it passed to the gallery of 
 Louis XIV. 
 39. Giorgwne (Giorgio Barbarelli), 1478-1514: A rural Concert. 
 From the collection of Charles I., afterwards of Louis XIV. 
 Two young men and two young women are represented with 
 musical instruments ; one of the latter draws water from a 
 well. 
 *I42. Vandyke (Anton van Dyck), 1600-1649 : Charles I. of Eng- 
 land, a magnificent full-length portrait. From the Orleans 
 gallery in the Palais Royal, where the picture seemed to 
 have a touching association with the palace in which the 
 widow and children of Charles had so long received a 
 generous hospitaliy. 
 
 ' Sous pretexte que le page qui accompagna Charles I' dans la 
 fuite de ce monarque ^tait un du Barry ou Barrymore, on fit acheter a 
 Londres, k la comtesse du Barry, le beau portrait que nous avons k 
 present dans le Museum. Elle fit placer le tableau dans son salon, et 
 quand elle voyait le roi incertain sur la mesure violente qu'il avait 4 
 prendre pour casser son parlement et former celui qu'on appela le 
 parlement Maupeou, elle lui disait de regarder le portrait d'un roi qui 
 avait fiechi devant son parlement. '—jlfOT?, Campan, 'Anecdotes.^ 
 
 ' Le malheureux Louis XVI. avait corame un presentiment de sa fin 
 tragique. II avait lu le proems de Charles I' avec soin ; il en parlait 
 souvent, et il disait k ses familiers que cette lecture lui avait ete profit- 
 able. Une de ses plus constantes preoccupations, pendant les trois 
 
6o PARIS 
 
 dernieres anuses de son rfegne, fut d'^viter les fautes qui, selon lui, 
 avaient perdu le roi d'Angleterre. 
 
 ' On le voyait frequemment jeter les yeux sur le chef-d'oeuvre de Van 
 Dyck, qui represente Charles I' i pied, ayant derri^re lui son cheval 
 maintenu par un icuyer. Ce tableau avail ^t^ achet^, sous le regne 
 precedent, par Mine du Barry, pour la somme de vingt mille livres, et 
 place par elle dans un salon oil il ^tait continuellement sous les yeux de 
 Louis XV.' — Mimoires secrets, 
 
 260. Roger van der Weyden : Madonna and Child. 
 *370. Jiaffaelle : S. Michael and the Dragon, painted for Franjois I. 
 in 1517. The king left the choice of the subject to the 
 painter, and he selected the military patron of France, and 
 of that knightly order of which the king Was Grand Master. 
 
 ' Like a flash of lightning the heavenly champion darts upon Salan, 
 who, in desperation, writhes at his feet. The angel is clad in scaly 
 armour, and bears a lance in his hands, with which he aims a death- 
 blow at his antagonist. The air of grandeur, beauty, and calm majesty 
 in the winged youth, the rapidity of the movement, the bold fore- 
 shortening of Satan, hurled on the lava rocks, have a most impressive 
 effect. ' —Kugler. 
 
 ' S. Michael— not standing, but hovering on his poised wings, and 
 grasping the lance with both hands— sets one foot lightly on the 
 shoulder of the demon, who, prostrate, writhes up, as it were, and 
 tries to lift his head and turn on his conqueror with one last gaze of 
 malignant rage and despair. The archangel looks down upon him 
 with a brow calm and serious ; in his beautiful face is neither vengeance 
 nor disdain — in his attitude, no effort ; his form, a model of youthfiil 
 grace and majesty, is clothed in a brilliant panoply of gold and silver ; 
 an azure scarf floats on his shoulders ; his widespread wings are of 
 purple, blue, and gold ; his light hair is raised, and floats outward on 
 each side of his head, as if from the swiftness of his downward motion. 
 The earth emits flames, and seems opening to swallow up the adversary. 
 The form of the demon is human, but vulgar in its proportions, and of 
 a swarthy red, as if fire-scathed ; he has the horns and serpent-tail ; 
 but, from the attitude into which he is thrown, the monstrous form is 
 so foreshortened that it does not disgust, and the majestic figure of the 
 archangel fills up nearly the whole space— fills the eye — fills the soul — 
 with its victorious beauty. 
 
 ' That Milton had seen this picture, and that when his sight was 
 quenched the ' winged saint ' revisited him in darkness, who can doubt ? — . 
 
SALLE DES SEPT METRES 6i 
 
 • " Over his lucid arms 
 A military vest of purple flow'd 
 Livelier than Meliboean, or the grain 
 Of Sarra, worn by kings and heroes old 
 In time of truce. . . . 
 
 By his side, 
 As in a glittering zodiac, hung the sword, 
 Satan's dire dread, and in his hand the spear." ' 
 
 Jameson^! ' Sacred and Legendary Art. ' 
 
 42. Guercino : The Resurrection of Lazarus. Collection of 
 
 Louis XVI. 
 306. Francid (Francesco Raibolini), 1450-1517 : The Nativity. 
 
 Collection of Napoleon III. 
 108. Francois Clouet, dit Janet, 1551-1592 : Portrait of Queen 
 
 Elisabeth d'Autriche, wife of Charles IX. 
 211. Holbein the Younger: Portrait of Anne of Cleves, Queen of 
 
 England. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 
 To the right of the Salon Carrd, is a small room, con- 
 taining some beautiful frescoes by Luini from the Palazzo 
 Litta at Milan, whither they were brought from a ruined 
 church ; also (1887) from the legacy of the Comtesse 
 Duchatel — 
 
 683, 684. Sir Antonio More (Moro van Dashorst), 1512-1581 
 Portrait supposed to represent Louis del Rio, Maltre des 
 requites, and his wife. 
 *68o. Memling : The Virgin and Child adored by the Donors. 
 
 796. Ingres (J. A. Dominque), 1780-1867: Oedipus explaining 
 
 the Enigma. 
 
 797. Ingres, ' La Source,' 1856 : considered the most perfect 
 
 example of the nude in modem painting. 
 
 Leaving the Salon Carr^ by the door opposite that by 
 which we entered, we reach the Grande Galerie, immediately 
 to the right of which opens the Salle des Sept Mitres, con- 
 taining a precious collection of the earlier Italian school — 
 chiefly brought together by Napoleon III. 
 
62 PARIS 
 
 252. Andrea Mantegna : The Parnassus. "Originally in the collec- 
 tion of Isabella d'Este-Gonzaga, taken in the sack of 
 Mantua in 1630. 
 156. Lorenzo di Credi (di Andrea d'Oderigo), 1459-1537 : Ma- 
 donna and Child withSS. Julien and Nicholas. From S. 
 Maria degli Angeli at Florence. 
 
 32. Ansano, or Sana di Pietro (of Siena), 1406-1481 : S. 
 Jerome in the Desert. 
 
 31. Sano di Pietro : The Vision of S. Jerome. 
 
 72. Beltraffio (Giovanni Antonio, of Milan), 1467-1516: 'La 
 Vierge de la famille Casio. ' Altar-piece painted for the church 
 of the Misericordia, near Bologna, the best work of the 
 artist. 
 113. Carpaccio {yiWaxt), flourished 1490-1519: The Preaching of 
 S. Stephen at Jerusalem. 
 *25I, Mantegna (Andrea, of Padua), 1431-1506 : ' La Vierge de la 
 Victoire.' A dedication picture for the victory which Gon- 
 zaga of Mantua obtained over Charles VIII. of France in 
 1495. F. di Gonzaga and his wife kneel at the feet of 
 the Virgin. Behind are SS. Michael and Andrew. On 
 the right S. Elizabeth kneels ; the little S. John stands by 
 the Virgin, with SS, George and Longinus, distinguished by 
 his lance. This is the most celebrated easel picture of the 
 master. From S. Maria della Vittoria at Mantua. 
 
 61. Giovanni Bellini, 1427-1516 : Holy Family. From the col- 
 lection of the Prince of Orange, afterwards of Lord 
 North wick. 
 
 78. // Moreito (Alessandro Bonvicino), 1499 1555 : S. Ber- 
 
 nardino of Siena and S. Louis, Bishop of Toulouse. 
 '250 Andrea Mantegna : The Crucifixion. A fragment from the 
 predella of the altar-piece of S. Zeno at Verona. The two 
 other portions of the predella are in the museum at Tours. 
 The way in which the head of the Crucified is thrown back 
 is very striking. 
 85. Borgognone (Ambrogio Stefani di Fossano), ob. 1524 : S. 
 Peter of Verona and a (female) kneeling donor. From the 
 Litta Collection. 
 427. Perugino : Holy Family. 
 
 79. Bonvicino : SS. Buenaventura and Antonio di Padova. 
 
 155 Lorenzo Costa {o{ Fenaia.), 1460-1535: Mythological scene — 
 painted for the' palace at Mantua. 
 
SALLE DES SEPT METRES 63 
 
 *22i. Fra Filippo Lippi (di Tommaso) 1412 7-1469 : Virgin and 
 Cliild, from S. Spirito at Florence. 
 261, Giovanni Massone (end of XV. c.) : An Altar-piece. In 
 the centre is the Nativity ; on left, S. Francis as protector of 
 Sixtus IV. ; on right, S. Antonio di Padova as protector of 
 Cardinal Giulio della Rovere, afterwards Julius II. From 
 the sepulchral chapel of Sixtus IV. at Savona. 
 *23. Niccolo Alunno (da Foligno), painted c. 1458-1499 : A Pre- 
 della. Two angels bear a scroll with the names of Alunno 
 and the donatrix Brisida. From S. Niccolo at Foligno. 
 275. Marco -Palmezzano (of Fuxli), 1456-1537 : The Dead Christ. 
 258. Cotigiiola (Girolamo Marchesi da), 1480 7-1550 ?: The 
 
 Bearing of the Cross. Signed. 
 391. Luca Signorelli [oi Cortoasi), 1441-1523 : A Fragment. 
 185. Filipepi (school of Botticelli) : Venus. 
 418. Cosimo Tura (of Ferrara), c. 1420-c. 1498 : Pieti. 
 307. F. Francia : The Crucifixion. Painted for S. Giobbe at 
 
 Bologna. 
 272. Neri di Bicci (of Florence), 1419-1486 : Madonna and 
 
 Child. 
 288. Pesellino (Francesco di Stefano), 1422-1457 : Dead Christ, 
 
 and Scenes from Lives of Saints. 
 157. Lorenzo di Credi : Christ and the Magdalen. 
 290. Pinturicckio (Bernardino di Betto), 1454-1513 : Madonna 
 
 and Child. 
 33, 34, 35. Sana di Pietro : Scenes from the Story of S. Jerome. 
 187. Agnolo Gaddi: The Annunciation, 
 55. Taddeo Bartolo (of Siena), 1363-1422 : S. Peter. 
 *I92. Giotto (di Bondone) : S. Francis receiving the Stigmata, In 
 the predella — the Vision of Innocent III. ; the Pope ap- 
 proving the Order of S. Francis ; S. Francis preaching to 
 the Birds. Signed, From S, Francesco at Pisa, 
 ' A picture full of awe and devotion, and although signed without 
 the prefix " Magister," certainly of later date than the worlcs in the 
 Arena by the argument of the single nail in the feet of the crucifix, a 
 type adopted by Giotto subsequent to his works there, ' — Lord Lind- 
 say^ s ' Christian Art,"* 
 
 Left Wall [returning). — 
 
 153. Cimabue (Giovanni Gualtieri), 12407-1302 ?: Madonna and 
 Child with Angels, From S, Francesco a Pisa. 
 
64 PARIS 
 
 1 88. Taddeo Gaddi: AVrsieWs.. 
 
 199. Benozzo Gozzoli, 1420-1498 : The Triumph of S. Thomas 
 
 Aquinas. From the Cathedral of Pisa. 
 154. Lorenzo Costa: The Court of Isabella d'Este, Duchess of 
 
 Mantua. From the palace at Mantua, afterwards in the 
 
 collection of Richelieu. 
 *i7o. Gentili da Fabriano, I37o?-I450?: The Presentation in the 
 
 Temple. 
 287. Pesellino : S. Francis receiving the Stigmata, and the holy 
 
 Doctors, Cosmo and Damian, taking care of a sick man. 
 
 Full of simplicity and beauty. 
 419. Cosimo Tura : A monastic Saint. 
 171. Gentile da Fabriano : The Madonna holds the Child, who 
 
 blesses the kneeling Pandolfo Malatesta, lord of Rimini. 
 220. Fra Filippo Liffi : The Nativity. From a church at 
 
 Prato.- 
 276. Domenico Panetti {pi Ye.ti3X2^, l46o?-l5i2?: The Nativity. 
 664. Bartolommeo Montagna (of Vicenza), ob. 1 523 : Three 
 
 Children playing on Musical Instruments. A very good 
 
 specimen of the master. 
 243. Mainardi (Sebastiano, of S. Gemignano) : Madonna and 
 
 Child with Angels. 
 
 189. Raffaellino del Garbo, 1466-1524 : The Coronation of the 
 
 Virgin. 
 
 270. Bart. Montagna : Ecce Homo. 
 
 347. Cosimo Rosselli (of Florence), 1438 1 507: Madonna in 
 Glory, with SS. Bernard and Mary Magdalen. 
 *i82. Fra Angelica (Fra Giovanni da Fiesole), 1387-145J : The 
 Coronation of the Virgin. In the predella— the Story of 
 S. Dominic. Vasari says that Fra Giovanni surpassed him- 
 self in the execution of this picture, which was the best 
 altar-piece in the church of Fiesole. 
 
 ' It is e.specially in the Coronation of the Virgin that Fra Angelico 
 has so profusely displayed the inexhaustible riches of his imagination. 
 It may be said that painting with him served as a formulary to express 
 the emotions of faith, hope, and charity. . In order that his task might 
 not be unworthy of Him in whose sight it was undertaken, he always 
 implored the blessing of Heaven before he began his work ; and when 
 an inward feeling told him that his prayer was answered, he considered 
 
LA GRANDE GALERIE 65 
 
 himself no longer at liberty to deviate in the slightest degree from the 
 inspiration vouchsafed him from on high, persuaded that in this, as in 
 everything else, he was only an instrument in the hand of God.'— 
 Rio, ' Poetry of Christian Art. ' 
 
 *l84. Botticelli (Alessandro Filipepi),- 1447-1510 : The Madonna 
 and Child with S. John. From the collection of Louis 
 XVIII. 
 409. Bartolommeo Suardi, ob. c. 1530 : The Circumcision, 
 84. Borgognone : The Presentation in the Temple. From the 
 Villa Melzi. 
 354. Pier Francesco Sacchi (of Pavia), early XVI. c. : The Four 
 
 Doctors of the Church. 
 396. Andrea Solaria (of Milan), ob. c. 153° '• Crucifixion. Signed, 
 
 IS°3- 
 259. Marco Uggione (of Milan), c. 1460-1530 : Holy Family at 
 
 Bethlehem. 
 289. Piero di Cosimo (of Florence), 1462-1521 ? : The Coronation 
 
 of the Virgin. 
 404. Lo Spagna : Virgin and Child. 
 
 389. Luca Signorelli: The Birth of the Virgin. Collection of 
 
 Louis XVIII. 
 403. Lo Spagna : The Nativity. Given by the town of Perugia to 
 the Baron di Gerando. 
 
 ' L'enfant Jesus repose i terre, le doigt dans la bouche comme un 
 marmot qui n'a pas encore conscieiice de sa divinity. ' — Thiophile 
 Gautier. 
 
 *I52. Cima di Conegliano : Madonna and Child with SS. J. Baptist 
 and Mary Magdalen, and a landscape; in Friuli. Signed. 
 
 467. Bartolommeo Vivarini (of Murano), ob. c. 1500 : S. Gio- 
 vanni Capistrano. Signed, 1459. 
 
 429. Pietro Perugino : The Contest between Love and Chastity. 
 From the gallery of Isabella d'Este. 
 
 390. Luca Signorelli : Adoration of the Magi. 
 
 246, 247, 248. Gio. Nicola Manni : The Baptism of Christ, As- 
 sumption of the Virgin, and Adoration of the Magi. 
 70. F. J. Bianchi (' Tl Frari') : Madonna and Child. 
 
 La Grande Galerie, begun by Catherine de Medicis and 
 
 F 
 
66 PARIS 
 
 continued by Henri IV. is divided by marble columns 
 
 plundered from the churches of Paris, where they usually 
 
 served to support a baldacchino. It will be found most 
 
 convenient and least fatiguing to take the best pictures on 
 
 the right in descending and those on the left in ascending ; 
 
 but the schools are divided — first Italian, then Spanish, 
 
 then German, Flemish, and Dutch. Numbers of artists are 
 
 usually engaged in copying the pictures. Manon Vaubernier, 
 
 afterwards the famous Comtesse du Barry, was discovered 
 
 by Lebel, a myrmidon of Louis XV., when she was a 
 
 copyist in this gallery. 
 
 ' C'est bete de ne pas ^crire les sujets sur les cadres.' — Zo/o, 
 ' n Assommoir.'' 
 
 Right: \st Division. — 
 
 1 6. Mariotto Albertinelli. 
 *2z7. Lorenzo Lotto (of Treviso), 1480?-! 554: S. Jerome in the 
 Desert. Signed, 1500. 
 
 448. Titian : The Council of Trent. Collection of Louis XV. 
 
 379. Andrea del Sarto : Charity. Signed, 1518. Collection of 
 Francois I. 
 
 337. TzWonf/ (Jacopo Robusti), 1512-1594: Portrait of the Artist. 
 
 274. Palma Vecchio : The Annunciation to the Shepherds. Collec- 
 tion of Louis XIV. A very beautiful Holy Family, with a 
 young shepherd adoring. 
 
 336. Tintoret : Sketch for the Paradise at Venice. 
 
 442. Titian : Holy Family. From the collection of Cardinal 
 Mazarin, afterwards of Louis XIV. 
 *463. Lionardo da Vinci : Bacchus. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 Probably originally intended for S. J. Baptist and altered to 
 represent the pagan god. 
 
 231. Luini '. The Holy Family — the Holy Child asleep. Collec- 
 tion of Louis XIV. 
 
 102. Faul Veronese : S. Mark crowning the Theological Virtues. 
 From the Sala della Bussola in the Ducal Palace at Venice. 
 *373- Raffaelle : Joanna of Arragon, wife of Ascanio Colonna, 
 Constable of Naples. Painted for Cardinal Bibbiena, who 
 
LA GRANDE GALERTE 67 
 
 gave it to Franyois I. Vasari says that only the head was 
 executed by Raffaelle. 
 93. Paul Veronese : Holy Family. From the collection of the 
 Comte de Erienne, afterwards of Louis XIV. 
 395. Andrea Solaria : Portrait of Charles d'Amboise. 
 *458. Lionardo da Vinci : S. John Baptist. Given by Louis XIII. 
 
 to Charles I. ; afterwards in the collection of Louis XIV. 
 *367. Raffaelle (?) : S. Margaret. Collection of Franyois I. 
 
 ' The famous S. Margaret of Raffaelle was painted for Franpois I. 
 in compliment to his sister, Margaret of Navarre. It represents the 
 saint in the moment of victory, just stepping forward with a buoyant 
 and triumphant air, in which there is also something exquisitely sweet 
 and girlish : one foot on the wing of the dragon, which crouches open- 
 mouthed beneath ; her right hand holds the palm, her left sustains her 
 robe. The aim of Raffaelle has evidently been to place before us an 
 allegory : it is innocence triumphant over the power of %\r\.'^Jame- 
 son's ' Sacred Art.' 
 
 loi. Paul Veronese : Portrait of a Young Woman. From the 
 
 Bevilacqua Gallery at Verona. 
 230. Luini : Holy Family. 
 *450. Titian : Portrait of Fran 9015 I. The king wears a medallion 
 of S. Margaret round his neck. From the collection of 
 Franfois I. 
 73. Bonifazio : The Resurrection of Lazarus. Formerly in S. 
 Luigi dei Francesi at Rome. 
 
 ' La gravite de la seine est un peu troublee d'un detail trop 
 famllierement naturel : un des Juifs present au miracle se bouche le 
 nez pour ne pas sentir la fetide odeur du sepulcre ouvert. C'est un 
 manque de govit ; mais le geste est si vrai, et le personnage si bien 
 paint!' — Thiophile Gautier. 
 
 *366. Raffaelle : S. John Baptist, This picture differs much in 
 composition from that in the Tribune at Florence. 
 86. Bronzino : Christ and the Magdalen-. Mentioned by Vasari 
 as existing in S. Spirito at Florence — an intensely vulgar 
 picture. 
 384. Girolamo Savoldo : Male Portrait. 
 
 439. Titian : Madonna and Child with SS. Stephen, Ambrose, 
 and Maurice. Collection of Louis XIV, There is a repetition 
 of this picture in the gallery at Vienna. 
 
 F 2 
 
68 FARTS 
 
 $2. Federigo Baracci, 1528-1612 : The Circumcision. From an 
 
 Oratory at Pesaro. 
 309. Bagnacavallo : The Circumcision. This picture was bought 
 
 by Charles Lebrun at the sale of Fouquet, and resold to 
 
 Louis XIV. 
 332. (On a screen.) Daniele da Volterra: David and Goliath. 
 
 Hard and violent, but so masterly as to have been attributed 
 
 to Michelangelo. 
 
 2nd Division. — 
 
 68. Pietro da Cortona (P. Berrettini) : Romulus and Remus. 
 
 Collection of Louis XV. 
 67. Pietro da Cortona : Madonna and Child, v(rith S. Martina 
 
 offering a lily. 
 312. Rembrandt: The Presentation in the Temple. 
 321. Guide Reni: S. Sebastian. Collection of Mazarin, afterwards 
 
 of Louis XIV. 
 181. Domenico Feti : The Guardian Angel. 
 139. Lodovico Caracci : Madonna and Child. Collection of 
 
 Louis XV. 
 9-12. Francesco Albani : Mythological Scenes. 
 400. Lionello Spada [oi VioXogna.), 1576-1622 : The Martyrdom of 
 
 S. Christopher. The giant kneels with bound hands : the 
 
 executioner, who has raised himself on a step to reach him, 
 
 prepares to strike off his head. Considered by Waagen to 
 
 be the masterpiece of the artist. 
 257. Carlo Maratta : Portrait of the Artist. 
 129. Annibale Caracci: Martyrdom of S. Stephen. Collection of 
 
 Louis XIV. 
 557- Zurbaran: S. Apollina. From the collection of Marshal Soult. 
 546. Murillo : The Miracle of S. Diego^' La Cuisine des Anges. ' 
 
 The angels prepare the dinner of the monk absorbed in his 
 
 devotions. Signed, 1646. Collection of Marshal Soult. 
 
 yd Division. — • 
 
 556. Zurbaran : The Funeral of S. Pedro Nolasco. 
 
 S48. /oj-^ rff i?j&ra (L'Espagnolet), 1588-1656: The Adoration of 
 
 the Shepherds. Signed, 1650. 
 555. Zurbaran : S. Pedro Nolasco and S. Raymond de Penaforte. 
 
 a,th Division. — 
 
 ♦672. Albert Durer : Head of an Old Man. 
 
LA GRANDE GALERIE 69 
 
 343. Sir Antonio More : The Dwarf of Charles V. with a dog. 
 *Z']T. Jan van Mabuse: Portrait of Jean Carondelet, Chancellor of 
 Flanders. Signed, 1517. In a niche is the chancellor's 
 d evice ' Matura. ' 
 
 279. Quentin Matsys : A Banker and his "Wife. Signed, 1518. 
 
 Z09. Holbein : Male Portrait. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 
 210. Holbein : Portrait of Sir Thomas More, Chancellor of Eng- 
 land. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 98. Lucas Cranach, 1472-1553: Venus. Dated 1529. 
 
 109. Cuyp (Aalbert Kuyp), i5oS-c. 1672 : Sea Piece. 
 
 151. Vandyke: Portrait of the Duke of Richmond. Collection of 
 Louis XIV. 
 
 The twenty-three large pictures which now hang on either 
 side the gallery — called ' La Galerie Medicis ' — were ordered 
 from Rubens by Marie de Medicis in 1620, to decorate 
 the gallery at the Luxembourg which she had just built. 
 Painted especially for their places in the Luxembourg, and 
 exceedingly interesting there, as commemorating the foun- 
 dress and first inhabitant of that palace, they are out of place 
 here. They are not hung in their order, which is — 
 
 The Destiny of Marie de Medicis. 
 Her Birth at Florence, April 26, 1575. 
 Education of Marie de Medicis. 
 Henri IV. receives her Portrait. 
 Her Marriage with Henry IV. 
 Her Landing at Marseilles, Nov. 3, 1600. 
 Her Marriage at Lyons, Dec. 10, 1600. 
 Birth of Louis XIII. at Fontainebleau, Sept. 27, 1601. 
 Henri IV. leaving for the war in Germany and placing the govern- 
 ment in the hands of the Queen. 
 The Coronation of Marie de Medicis. 
 The Government of Marie de Medicis. 
 ■ Journey of the Queen to Pont-au-C^, in Anjou. 
 
 Exchange of the French and Austrian princesses, Nov. 9, 1615. 
 Happiness of the Regency. 
 Majority of Louis XIII. 
 
70 PARIS 
 
 The Escape of the Queen from Blois, Feb. 21, i6ig. 
 Reconciliation of Louis XIII. with Marie de Medicis. 
 Conclusion of the Peace. 
 
 Interview between Marie de Medicis and her son. 
 The Triumph of Truth. 
 Marie de Medicis as Bellona. 
 
 . Her father, Franjois de Medicis, Grand Duke of Tuscany. 
 Her mother, Jane of Austria, daughter of the Emperor Ferdinand I. 
 
 The outlines were drawn in chalk under the personal 
 supervision of the queen, but the paintings were executed 
 at Antwerp; the sketches for them are at' Munich. 
 
 The collection of Dutch pictures is a very fine one, 
 though when Louis XIV. looked at those which were here 
 in his time he exclaimed, ' Otez-moi ces magots ! ' We 
 may notice — 
 
 R. 5. Backhuisen : A Dutch Fleet. 
 
 91. Philippe de Champaigne : Portrait of a Girl. 
 
 574. Wouvermann : Huntsmen halting before a Public-house. 
 
 516. Tenters; Wine-shop near a river. 
 
 396, Porbus le Jeune : Portrait of Marie de Medicis : a picture of 
 great interest, as the only one preserved from the fire of 
 Feb. 6, 1661, from the portraits of kings and queens of 
 France (by Porbus, Bunel, and his wife Marie Bahuche) 
 which hung, in la galerie des rois of Henri IV. , between the 
 windows, nine on the west, twelve on the east. That of 
 Henri IV. is only known by the engraving of Thomas de 
 Leu. This picture happened to have been moved into 
 another room, during alterations, just before the fire occurred. 
 86. Philippe de Champaigne : Louis XIII. crowned by Victory— 
 beneath open the halls of the Ecole Frangaise — from the 
 H6tel de Toulouse. 
 
 S47. Verkolie : An Interior. 
 
 295. E. Metzu : The Chemist. 
 
 308. Van der Meulen : The Passage of the Rhine. 
 
 486. Slingelandt : A Dutch Family. 
 
 204. Van der Heyden : Village on a Canal. 
 
 143. Vandyke : The Children of Charles, I. (Charles II. , James 11. , 
 
LA GRANDE GALERIE 71 
 
 and Mary of Orange). A charming miniature sketch for a 
 
 great picture at Turin. 
 377. Van Ostade : The Halt. 
 127. Gerard Dou : Men weighing Gold. 
 301. Van der Meulen : Entry of Louis XIV. and Marie Therese 
 
 into Douai, August 1667, 
 *I29. Gerard Dou : An Old Woman reading the Bible to her 
 
 Peasant husband. 
 
 5^/^ Division. — 
 
 *400. Paul Fetter: 'The Prairie.' Signed, and dated 1652, when 
 the artist was twenty-six (two years before his death). 
 94. Philippe de Champaigne : Portraits of the architects Frangois 
 Mansart and Claude Perrault. 
 515. Teniers le Jeurw: The Village Festival. 
 
 413-1 
 416./ 
 
 Rembrandt : Portraits. 
 
 of Louis XVI. 
 *83. Philippe de Chatnpaigne : Portrait of Suzanne, the daughter of 
 the artist, a nun of Port Royal, recovering from dangerous 
 illness (fever and paralysis) in 1662, in answer to the prayers 
 of Sister Catherine Agnes Arnauld — a most graphic pic- 
 ture of unparalleled care in the treatment of its homely 
 details. From the Convent of Port Royal. 
 551. Ary de Voys [ai'L&yAea), 1641-1698: Male Portrait. 
 371. Van Ostade : The Fish Market. 
 78. Philippe de Champaigne : The Crucifixion. 
 *I46. Vandyke : Portrait of Francesco de Moncada, Marquis d'Ay- 
 tona, Spanish general in the Netherlands. 
 459. Rubens : Portrait of Elizabeth of France, daughter of Henri IV. , 
 who married the Infante of Spain, afterwards Philippe IV. 
 Collection of Louis XIV. 
 *I45. Vandyke : Portrait of Isabella Clara Eugenia, Infanta of Spain, 
 Governess of the Netherlands, 'as a widow. Collection of 
 Louis XIV. 
 27. Berghem : Landscape and Animals. 
 
 6ih Division. — 
 
 462. Rubens : The Village Festival. 
 
 579. Wynants (Jan), c. 1600-c. 1677 : The Edge of the Forest. 
 
72 PARIS 
 
 155. Vandyke: Male Portrait. 
 473. Ruysdael : Landscape. 
 
 *I44. Vandyke : Portraits of Charles Lodovic, Duke of Bavaria, and, 
 his brother, Prince Rupert. From the collection of Charles I.; 
 afterwards in the Salon d'ApoUon at Versailles. 
 190. Franz Hals, 1554-1666 : Portrait of Rene Descartes. 
 
 Returning by the South Wall. — 
 
 582. Wyntrack : The Farm. 
 
 405. Rembrandt : The Samaritan's House. Dated 1648. Collec- 
 tion of Louis XVL 
 
 689. Paul Potter : The Wood at the Hague. 1650. 
 
 379. hack van Ostade, 1617-c. 1654. A Frozen Canal. 
 
 471. Ruysdael: Storm on a Dutch Canal. 
 
 500. Jan van Steen, 1636-1689. Flemish Alehouse Festival. 
 
 *88. Philippe de Champaigne : Portrait of Robert Amauld 
 d'Andilly. 1650. 
 
 ' This portrait is well conceived and highly finished in execution : 
 the tone is warm, and the hand is peculiarly beautiful.' — Waagen. 
 
 580. Wynanis : Landscape. 
 
 137. Vandyke: 'La Vierge aux Donateurs.' Collection of 
 Louis XIV. 
 
 2nd Division. — ■ 
 
 304. Van der Meulen, 1634-1690 : Entrance of Louis XIV. and 
 Marie Therise into Arras, 1667. Louis XIV. and Monsieur, 
 on horseback, follow the carriage, -which shows how ladies 
 used to sit ' a la portiere.' 
 
 104. Cuyp : Cows. 
 
 *148. Vandyke: Portrait of a gentleman (supposed to be the brother 
 of Rubens) and little girl. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 
 105. Cuyp : Starting for a Ride. Collection of Louis XVI. 
 
 106. Cuyp : The Promenade. 
 
 149. Vandyke : Portrait of a lady (supposed to be sister-in-law of 
 Rubens) and her daughter. Formerly at Versailles in the 
 collection of Louis XIV. 
 
 470. Ruysdael : The Forest. 
 
 674. Holbein: A Water-mill.. Signed. Collection of Napoleon III. 
 
LA GRANDE GALERIE 73 
 
 ■>,rd Division. — 
 
 41. F. Bol: Portrait of a Mathematician. Collection of Louis XV. 
 
 566. Wouvermann : The Wooden Bridge over the Torrent. 
 528. Gerard Terburg : The Concert. 
 
 152. Vandyke ; Portrait of the Artist. From the Bedchamber of 
 Louis XIV. at Versailles. 
 
 147. Vandyke : Portrait of Francesco de Moncada. From the 
 Chamber of Louis XIV. 
 
 514. Tenters (David): The Temptation of S. Anthony. Collec- 
 tion of Louis XVIII. 
 
 113. Dekker (Coni&A), XVII. c. : Landscape. 
 
 397. Porbus lejeune : Portrait of Guillaume le Vair, Chancellor of 
 France under Louis XIII. 
 
 ^ ■ S- Van der Meulen : Battle Pieces. 
 
 472. Ruysdael: Landscape. 
 
 545. Van der Venne : Fgte on the Peace between Belgium and 
 Holland. 
 
 ■f ■ > Van Huysum : Fruit and Flowers. 
 237* J 
 172. G. Flinck : Portrait of a Girl. 
 
 567. Wouvermann : Departure for the Chase. 
 581. Wynants : Landscape. 
 
 417. Re?nbrandt I Portrait of a Young Man, 
 123. Gerard Dou : The Village Grocer. 
 
 197. Van der Heist : Distribution of Prizes. Marvellous in expres- 
 sion. 
 536. Van de Welde : Beach at Schevening. 
 569. Wouvermann : A Stag Hunt. 
 224. Pieier de Hoogh : Dutch Interior. 
 
 19. Berghem : The Ford. 
 128. Gerard Dou \ The Dentist. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 461. Rubens: Portrait of a Lady. 
 369. Van Osiade : The Family of Adrian van Ostade. 
 
 1' f ^'''"■"'^ Porbus : Portrait of Henri IV. 
 
 518. Tiwz'erj (le Jeune) ; Interior of an Alehouse. 
 *407. Rembrandt : The Supper at Emmaus. 1648. Collection of 
 Louis XVI. 
 414. Rembrandt : Portrait of the Artist. 1637. Collection of 
 . Louis XVI. 
 
74 PARIS 
 
 458. Rubens : Portrait of Henri de Vicq, Ambassador from the 
 Netherlands in France. From the collection of William II. 
 The portrait was painted by Rubens in gratitude for the 
 recommendation of De Vicq having caused his choice for 
 decorating the gallery of the Luxembourg. 
 60. Breughel : The Battle of Arbela! 
 *207. Holbein : Portrait of William Warham, Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury. 1527. Collection of Louis XV. 
 *2o6. Holbein : Nicholas Kratzer, Astronomer to Henry VIH. 
 Collection of Louis XIV. 
 100. Lucas Cranoih : Male Portrait. 
 
 280. Lucas Cranach ? : The Deposition. From a Jesuit convent in 
 the Rue S. Antoine, afterwards in the church of Val de 
 Grace. 
 ' A picture of the deepest religious feeling. The Virgin— though 
 very German— is a creature of meekness and purity, lost in the abandon- 
 ment of sorrow.' — Lindsay's ' Christian Art.' 
 
 j^th Division. {Spanish.) — 
 
 537. Af»>-a&j (Luiz-' El Divino'), 1509-1566 : The Cross-bearing. 
 
 Collection of Louis XVIII. 
 
 538. Murillo : The Immaculate Conception. Collection of 
 
 Louis XVIII. 
 542. Murillo: ' La Viergeau Chapelet.' Collection of Louis XVI. 
 *547. Murillo : The Young Beggar Boy. Collection of Louis XVI. 
 545. Murillo : Christ bound to the Column and S. Peter on his 
 
 knees. 
 544. Murillo : The Agony of Gethsemane. Collection of LouisXVI. 
 
 553. Velasquez : Portrait of Don Pedro Moscoso de Altamira, dean 
 . of the Chapel Royal at Toledo, and afterwards cardinal. 
 
 ^th Division. — 
 
 540. jlfarsV/o : The Birth of the Virgin. Collection of Napoleon III. 
 
 551. Velasquez : Portrait of Maria Margareta, daughter of 
 
 Philip IV. 
 
 554. Velasquez : A Group of Men. Velasquez and Murillo are 
 
 represented on the left. 
 
 552. Velasquez : Philip IV.— a full-length— with a dog. 
 
 549. Ribera : The Burial of Christ. Collection of Napoleon III. 
 474. Domenichino : S. Cecilia. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 
LA GRANDE GALERIE 75 
 
 344. Salvator Rosa : Battle Piece. 
 
 ' An admirable picture, with an angry yellow light.' — Kugler. 
 
 324, Guido Reni : Hercules and Achelous. 
 
 180. Domenico Fell \ Melancholy. Replica of a picture at Venice. 
 ■ 343- Salvator Rosa : The Apparition of Samuel to Saul. Collec- 
 tion of Louis XIV. 
 318. Guido Reni: Ecce Homo. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 256. Carlo Maratta : Portrait of Maria Maddalena Rospigliosi. A 
 very favourable specimen of the master. 
 24. Caravaggio : The Death of the Virgin. From the gallery 
 of the Duke of Mantua this picture passed to that of 
 Charles I. , then of Louis XIV. 
 134. Ann. Caracci : Fishermen. 
 *II9. Ann. Caracci: ' La Vierge aux Cerises.' 
 
 The name is in allusion to the legend, often repeated in old carols, 
 that, before the birth of our Saviour, the Virgin longed for cherries 
 which hung high on a tree, and that when Joseph was about to get 
 them for her, the bough bent to his hand. 
 
 tth Division. — 
 
 455. Titian : Male Portrait. Collection of Mazarin, afterwards of 
 
 Louis XIV. 
 451. Titian : An Allegory. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 *46l. Lionardo da Vinci (sometimes attributed to the Milanese Ber- 
 nardino de' Conti) : Female Portrait, called in France ' La 
 Belle Feronni^re,' mistress of Francois I., but really re- 
 presenting Lucrezia Crivelli, a lady beloved by Ludovico 
 Sforza. 
 *440. Titian: ' La Vierge au Lapin. ' Signed. Collection of Louis 
 XIV. The Virgin holds a white rabbit, towards which the 
 infant Christ, in the arms of S. Catherine, eagerly stretches 
 his hand. 
 92. Paul Veronese : The Swoon of Esther. Collection of Louis 
 XIV. 
 *372. Raffaelle : Portrait of a Young Man, said to be the artist. 
 Collection of Louis XIV. 
 *56. Fra Bartolomnteo : The Annunciation. 1515. Collection of 
 Franfois I. 
 
 ' The Virgin seated under a niche, and attended by standing or 
 
76 PARIS 
 
 ineeling saints, bends backwards as she sees the messenger who flies 
 down to her. It is clear that the latter was thrown off on the back- 
 ground of architecture at the moment When the rest was finished. Fra 
 Bartolommeo has reached a point where he defies every sort of difficulty. ' 
 Crowe and Cavalcaselle. 
 
 ' A most brilliant and original composition, in which the Virgin, 
 instead of being represented kneeling in some retired spot, is seated on 
 a throne receiving the homage of various saints, when the angel Gabriel 
 appears before her. ' — Rio, ' Christian Art. ' 
 
 *37I. Raffaelle: Portrait of Balthasar Castiglione, the famous author 
 
 of ' II Cortigiano. ' Collection of Charles I. , afterwards of 
 
 Mazarin and Louis XIV. 
 445. Titian : Christ crowned with Thorns. From S. Maria delle 
 
 Grazie at Milan. 
 441. Titian : The Holy Family. 
 *99. Paul Veronese : The Supper at Emmaus. 
 *46o. Lionardo da Vinci : ' La Vierge aux Rochers. ' Collection of 
 
 Francois I. A replica, with some differences, of the famous 
 
 picture, in the National Gallery, from the collection at 
 
 Charlton. 
 Z91. Giulio Romano : The Nativity. From S. Andrea at Mantua ; 
 
 afterwards in the gallery of the Duke of Mantua ; then of 
 
 Charles I. ; finally of Louis XIV. 
 443. Titian : The Disciples at Emmaus. A subject often painted 
 
 by the master. Gallery of the Duke of Mantua, Charles I. 
 
 and Louis XIV. 
 
 ' Titien, selon la tradition, fait asseoir k la droite du Sauveur, sous 
 I'habit de pMerin, I'empereur Charles V., et ^ sa gauche, sous le meme 
 travestissement, le cardinal Xim^nes. Le page qui apporte un plat 
 sur la table serait Philippe II,, plus tard roi des Espagnes.' — Thiophile 
 Gautier. 
 
 57- Pfa Bartolommeo : Virgin and Child throned, with Saints. 
 225. Lorenzo Lotto : S. Laurence, with S. Agnes and S. Margaret. 
 
 Collection of Napoleon III. 
 453. Titian: Male Portrait. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 *449. Titian : Jupiter and Antiope, known as ' La Venus del Pardo,' 
 with a glorious landscape. Given by Philip IV. of Spain to 
 Charles I. , afterwards in the collection of Mazarin, then of 
 Louis XIV. 
 
WORKS OF LESUEUR 77 , 
 
 382. Andrea del Sarto : The Annunciation. A replica of the pic- 
 ture in the Pitti at Florence. 
 *38. Giorgione : The Holy Family, with SS. Sebastian and Catherine, 
 
 in a poetic landscape. Collection's of Duke of Mantua, 
 
 Charles I., Mazarin, and Louis XIV. 
 454. Titian : A Man holding a Glove. Collection of Louis XIV. 
 177. Gaudenzio Ferrari (of Valduggia), 1484-1550 : S. Paul, 
 
 Signed,, 1543. From S. Maria delleGrazie at Milan. 
 *374. Raffaelle : Two Male Portraits : supposed to represent Raf- 
 
 faelle and his fencing-master : by some ascribed to Pontormo 
 
 or Sebastian del Piombo. 
 74. Bonifazio : Holy Family and Saints. Collection of Mazarin, 
 
 afterwards of Louis XIV. 
 
 The third door we have passed on the right of La Grande 
 Galerie is the entrance to five rooms devoted to French and 
 English artists. Here we may notice — 
 
 \st Room. — Containing interesting examples of XIV. c. 
 art in France. Two pictures by Frafipis Clouet dit Janet 
 (1500-1572), and a number by his pupils. 
 
 653. Jean Fouequet, c. 1450 : Charles VII. 
 *652. Id. : Guillaume Jouvenel, Chancellor of Charles VII. A very 
 noble work. 
 137, Jean Cousin : The Last Judgment. 
 
 znd Room. — A noble collection of pictures oi Eustache 
 Lesueur (161 7-1655) representing the life of S. Bruno, and 
 executed for one of the cloisters of a Carthusian monastery 
 which stood on the site now occupied by the Luxembourg. 
 
 ' Lesueur avait vingt-huit ans, lorsqu'il fut charge de peindre la 
 galerie des Chartreux ; en moins de trois ans (1645-1648), aide par ses 
 freres et son beau-frfere dans les parties les moins importantes de I'oeuvre, 
 il eut execute les vingt-deux tableaux de la vie de S. Bruno. L'admira- 
 tion publique ne s'exprima point par une explosion bruyante, mais par 
 une espice de saisissement. Cette serenite, cette purete celeste, cette 
 couleur limpide et transparente comme un beau ciel d'ete, ce sentiment 
 religieux d'une suavite si penetrante, qui reunit I'elan de I'extase et le 
 
78 PARIS 
 
 calme de I'ame en repos dans la lumiere, furent comme une r^vflation 
 nouvelle. Lesueur apres Poussin, c'etait I'Evangile apr^s I'Antiquite et 
 I'ancien Testament.' — Martin, ' Hist, de France.^ 
 
 The pictures are — 
 
 1. Raymond, a learned doctor at Paris, and canon of Notre Dame 
 
 is lecturing on theology to his pupils, one of whom, sitting 
 in front, with a book under his arm, is S. Bruno, a native of 
 Cologne. 
 
 2. Raymond dies. A priest attended by two students, one of 
 
 whom is S. Bruno, extends the crucifix. A demon awaits 
 the departing soul. 
 
 3. As, three several times, the people were attempting to carry 
 
 Raymond to the grave, when they were chaunting the words 
 ' Responde mihi quantas habes iniquitates,' the dead 
 man lifted himself up and with terrible voice exclaimed : 
 ' By the justice of God I am condemned.' On the third 
 occasion the body was flung aside, as unworthy of Christian 
 burial. S. Bruno witnesses the awful scene. 
 
 4. S. Bruno kneels before the crucifix. In the background 
 
 Raymond is being buried in unconsecrated ground. 
 
 5. Bruno teaches theology at Rheims. 
 
 6. Bruno, dreading the temptations of the world, persuades six 
 
 friends to adopt the life of anchorites. 
 
 7. S. Bruno and his companions prepare to set out to Grenoble 
 
 and distribute their goods to the poor. 
 
 8. Hugo, Bishop of Grenoble, has a vision of seven moving stars, 
 
 which become stationary at a fixed point in his diocese ; 
 when Bruno and his companions appear, he sees the inter- 
 pretation of his vision and gives them a retreat on a moun- 
 tain near Grenoble. 
 
 9. Bruno and his friends, preceded by S. Hugo on a mule, 
 
 journey to the village of Chartreux. 
 
 10. S. Bruno founds the monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, 
 
 11. S. Hugo invests Bruno with the habit of his order. 
 
 12. The rule of Bruno is confirmed by Pope Victor III. 
 
 13. S. Bruno, as abbot, receives young novices. 
 
 14. Pope Urban II., who had been a pupil of Bruno at Rheims, 
 
 sends for S. Bruno to aid him in his affairs : the suiiimons 
 causes consternation. 
 
 15. Bruno received by Urban II. 
 
GALERIE MOLLIEN 79 
 
 16. Bruno refuses the Archbishopric of Reggie. 
 
 1 7. Bruno, unable longer to endure Court life, retires to a desert 
 
 in Calabria. 
 
 18. Bruno has obtained leave to found a Convent in Calabria ; he 
 
 prays and the monks clear the ground. 
 ig. Count Roger of Sicily, lost in the forest, finds the hermitage 
 of S. Bruno. 
 
 20. Whilst besieging Capua, Count Roger has a vision of S. Bruno, 
 
 vifho warns him of treachery in his camp, so that he is able 
 to guard against it. 
 
 21. The death of S. Bruno (lioo), surrounded by his monks. 
 
 22. The apotheosis of S. Bruno — the worst, as the last was the best, 
 
 of the series. 
 
 j,rd Room. — Pictures by Eustache Lesueur, chiefly from 
 the Hotel Lambert, in the Isle S. Louis. 
 
 ' La decoration de I'hotel Lambert, partagee entre les deux rivaux 
 Lesueur et Lebrun, fut encore pour Lesueur I'occasion d'un triomphe. 
 II y donna un caract^re tout nouveau k I'alHgorie mythologique, d^ja 
 traitee par Poussin avec une grande profondeur, mais dans un autre 
 style. C'est, ainsi que le dit tres-blen M. Vitet, c'est I'antiquite comme 
 la comprendra Fenelon, devenue chretienne sans cesser d'etre heU^nique. 
 Ce n'est pas I'antiquitd d'Homere, mais celle de Platon et de Virgile, 
 Ces ravissantes nymphes de Lesueur sont des id^es descendues de 
 I'empyree platonicien, si voisin du ciel de saint Jean.' — Henri Martin, 
 
 ^tk Room. — Pictures by Horace Vemet (1714-1789). 
 
 5M Room. — Pictures by English artists — none remark- 
 able. 
 
 From this room one may turn (right) at the head of 
 a staircase to the Galerie Mollien, containing a vast col- 
 lection of the works of N. Poussin and Claude. 
 
 Right Wall— 
 
 804. Lenain: Portrait of Henri II., Due de Montmorenci. 
 
 828. N. Poussin : Apollo and Daphne. The last work of the 
 
 artist ; left unfinished. 
 515. Leszieur: Tobias instructed by his Father. Very beautiful in 
 
 colour. 
 
8o PARIS 
 
 65. Lehrun : Martyrdom of S. Stephen. 
 
 ' Cast en quelque sorte le specimen de ce qu'on peut appeler I'ecole 
 academique ; un grand talent de composition, un style noble, une execu- 
 tion habile, mais une mani^re th^Strale, d^clamatolre, tout i la surface, 
 oil manque la serenite de I'art vrai, ou on sent I'Sme absente.' — Henri 
 Martin. 
 
 This picture was a votive offering executed by Lebrun at the age 
 of thirty-two, for the Confrerie des Orf^vres, who presented it, on 
 May I, 1651, to the chapter of Notre Dame. 
 
 421, N. Poussin : The Philistines smitten with the Plague. 
 521. Lesueur : S. Paul preaching at Ephesus. 
 
 ' Depuis La Dispute du Saini-Sacrement et VEcole d'Athines il 
 n'avait rien paru qui put comparer au Saint Paul, creation qui est 
 peut-^tre le chef-d'oeuvre de I'&ole fran9aise. Un id^al souverain re- 
 spire dans toute cette composition ; un souffle divin fait frisonner la 
 chevelure de I'ap&tre ; I'esprit de Dieu brille dans son regard. ' — Henri 
 Martin. 
 
 \ Claude Lorraine : Landscapes. 
 
 453. N. Poussin : Diogenes. The landscape is magnificent. 
 
 195. Claude Lefhire : A Master and his Pupil. 
 
 29Q. Laurent de Lahyre (1606-1656) : Pope Nicholas V. witness- 
 ing the opening of the grave of S. Francis of Assisi. 
 The pope (1449) descends into the tomb at Assisi, which has 
 never been opened since the death of the saint. He finds 
 the body entire and standing upright ; kneeling, he lifts the 
 robe to examine the traces of the stigmata ; attendants and 
 monks with torches stand around. 
 
 224. Claude Lorraine :- David crowned by Samuel. 
 *3o6. Jouvenet : Fagon, physician of Louis XIV. A most powerful 
 and speaking portrait. 
 
 226. Claude Lorraine : A Seaport. 
 
 479. Rigaud: Portrait of Martin van den Bogaert, known as 
 Desjardins, the sculptor. 
 
 415. N. Poussin : Eleazar and Rebecca. 
 
 232. Claude Lorraine : Entering a Port (Genoa?) at Sunrise. 
 
 Left Wall.— 
 
 473. Rigaud : Presentation in the Temple. The last work of the 
 master (1743), bequeathed by him to Louis XV," 
 
MODERN FRENCH SCHOOL 8i 
 
 233. Claude Lorraine ; The Landing of Cleopatra, 
 48. Sebastian Bourdon : Portrait of the Artist. 
 
 386. Oudry : Blanche, a favourite dog of Louis XV. 
 
 446. N. Poussin : Time saving Truth from the attacks of Envy and 
 Discord. Executed in 1641 for Cardinal Richelieu, after- 
 wards in the ' grand cabinet du roi ' at the Louvre. 
 
 225. Claude Lorraine : Ulysses restoring Chryseis to her Father. 
 
 392. Mignard: Madonna and Child, with a cluster of grapes. 
 
 47'S. Rigaud: Louis XIV. An interesting portrait (1701) of the 
 great king, ' silencieux et mesur^,' as S. Simon describes 
 him, whose minutest actions endured the scrutiny of his 
 courtiers, from whose presence he was never relieved, a 
 prince of the blood handing him his shirt, a duke holding a 
 mirror whilst he shaved, &c. 
 
 480. Rigaud : Portrait of Charles Lebrun and Pierre Mignard. 
 
 351. Mignard; Ecce Homo. 
 
 At the end of this gallery we enter Le Pavilion Denon, 
 containing pictures of the Battles of Alexander by Charles 
 Lebrun. 
 
 On the right opens a gallery in which a collection of the 
 Modern French School has been recently arranged We may 
 notice — 
 
 Right Wall— 
 
 Culrin : Death of Caesar. 
 Constant Troyon : Oxen going to Work. 
 Ary Scheffer : S. Augustin and S. Monica. 
 Jtzgres : The Apotheosis of Homer. 
 Pi-udhon : The Empress Josephine. 
 Delaroche : The English Princes in the Tower. 
 
 End Wall— 
 
 Delaroche ; The Death of Elizabeth of England. 
 Left Wall.^ 
 
 Scheffer : The Temptation. 
 100. David: The Vow of the Horatii. 
 
 Gros : Bonaparte at Areola. 
 
 Benonville: The Death of S. Francis : of Asslsi, 
 
 Troyon : Le Retour de la Ferme. 
 
82 PARIS 
 
 Returning to the Pavilion Denon, we enter the Galerie 
 Daru. 
 
 Right Wall— 
 
 284-288. Oudry : Favourite Dogs of Louis XV., with their 
 
 names. 
 311. Lancret : Summer. 
 587. Jean Francois de Troy : First Chapter of the Order of S. 
 
 Esprit, held by Henri IV. in the .Convent of the Grands 
 
 Augustins at Paris, January 8, 1595. 
 *265. Greuze : The Broken Pitcher. 
 330. Vanloo : Portrait of Queen Marie Leczinska, T 747. 
 
 52. Mme Lebrun : Portrait of the Artist and her Daughter. 
 332, Vanloo : Portrait of the artist Jean Germain Drouais. 
 261, 262. Greuze : The Father's Curse, and the Return of the 
 
 Prodigal Son. Collection of Louis XVIIL 
 
 Left Wall— 
 
 ■2.(i\. Greuze : Portrait of an Artist. 
 
 67S. Angelica Kaufman : A Lady and Child. 
 
 28, 29. Boucher : Pastoral Subjects. Good specimens of the artist. 
 
 187. F. N. Drouais, 1763 : Portrait of the Comte d'Artois, after- 
 wards Charles X. , at six, and his sister, Clotilde, at four. 
 
 577. Louis Tocqtii : Portrait of Queen Marie Leczinska. 
 
 *99. Chardin : The Benedicite. Collection of Louis XV. 
 
 724. Chardin : ' La Pourvoyeuse. ' 
 98. Chardin ; The Industrious Mother. 
 
 403. Pater, 'i.'j2?> : A Pastoral Feast. 
 *26o. Greuze: The Village Bride, 'L'Accordee du Village.' The 
 father has just paid the dowry of his daughter and is com- 
 mending her to the care of her bridegroom ; the mother 
 exhibits satisfaction at the match ; the younger sister grief 
 at the parting. 
 
 168. Desportes : Folle and Mitte, dogs of Louis XIV. 
 
 162. Desportes. Portrait of the Artist. 
 
 367. Oudry : Wolf Hunt. 
 
 On leaving the last hall of the French School we find 
 ourselves at the top of the Escalier Daru. Crossing the 
 
MUSi.E CAMP ANA, MUS^E CHARLES X. 83 
 
 landing half-way up the staircase, entering the Vestibule,' and 
 leaving the Galerie d'ApoUon to the right, we reach again 
 the Salle des Sept Chemindes. If we cross this, by the 
 furthest door on the opposite wall we may enter the Mushe 
 Campana, containing the — 
 
 Salle Asiatique. — (The ceiling has ' Poussin presented to Louis XII. 
 by Richielieuj' by Alaux.) Phoenician terra-cottas, Babylonian 
 alabasters, &c. 
 
 Salle des Terres-cuites. — (Ceiling, 'Henri IV. after the Battle of 
 Ivry,' by Steuien.) Terra-cottas, chiefly from Magna Graecia. 
 
 Salledes Vases Noirs. — (Ceiling, 'Puget presenting to Louis XIV. his 
 Group of Milo of Crotona,' by Deveria.) Very ancient Etruscan vases. 
 
 Salle du Tombeau Lydien, — (Ceiling, ' Francis I. receiving the 
 Statues brought from Italy by Primaticcio,' by Fragonard.) In the 
 centre of the room is the great terra- cotta tomb of a husband and wife, 
 from Cervetri, vi^hich was the masterpiece of the Campana collection. 
 
 Salle des Vases Corinthiens. — (Ceiling, * The Renaissance of the Arts 
 in France,' and eight scenes of French historj' from Charles VIII. to the 
 death of Henri 11.) All the vases in this hall are anterior to Pericles. 
 
 Salle des Vases i Figurines Noires. — (Ceiling, ' Francis I. armed by 
 Bayard, ' by Fragonard. ) Vases before the time of Alexander the Great. 
 
 Salledes Vases d- Figurines Rouges. — (Ceiling, 'Charlemagne and 
 Alcuin,' by i'(r:4«efo.) 
 
 Salle des Rhytons. — (Ceiling, ' Louis XII. at the States-General 
 of Tours in 1506,' by Drolling.) Many of the rhytons are unique. 
 
 Salle des Fresques. — (Ceiling, ' Egyptian Campaign under Bona- 
 parte,' by C(?^;V;.) Frescoes and relics from Pompeii. Three frescoes 
 of first-rate excellence were given by Francis I. of Naples. 
 
 Returning to the Salle des Vases Corinthians, the visitor 
 may enter, on the left, the Musee Charles X., or des Anti- 
 quit'es Grecques, and, beginning with the furthest room, visit — ■ 
 
 Salle d'Somire : Greek Pottery and Glass. Objects in wood and 
 plaster from the tombs of Kertch. 
 
 Salle des Vases Feints, i figures rouges. 
 
 Salle Grecqtfe, 
 
 Salle des Vases Feints, & figures noires. 
 
84 PARIS 
 
 The five succeeding halls and staircase of the Mush 
 Egvptien contain a very precious and important collection. 
 Their names express their contents^— 
 
 Salle des dieux et inonuments divers. 
 
 Salle des dieux. 
 
 Salle des monuments fundraires. 
 
 Salle des monuments relatifs i la vie civile. 
 
 Salle des monuments historiques. 
 
 (Staircase) Larger sculptures. Statue of Rameses II. 
 
 Turning left, vye find Les Andennes Salles du Musk des 
 Souverains, vfhich are full of interest. Their collections 
 are chiefly due to the energy and historic judgment of the 
 Empress Eugdnie. 
 
 Salh I- is panelled from the apartments which Louis XIII. pre- 
 pared for Anne of Austria in the chateau of Vincennes. The stained 
 glass is of XVI. and XVII. c. 
 
 Salle II., ' La Ckambre h Alc$ve,' is panelled from the apartment of 
 Henri II. in the Louvre, which occupied the site of the Salon carr^ de 
 I'Ecole Franyaise. The four enfants in the alcove, sustaining a canopy, 
 are by Gilles Guerin. This alcove is especially interesting, as the body 
 of Henry IV. was laid there, after his murder by Ravaillac. 
 
 ' On retrouve, non-seulement les emblfemes " croissants et fleurs-de- 
 lys," les devises et chiffres qui rappellent les amours de Henri II. avec 
 Diane de Poitiers, mais encore une partie des details qu'avait admires 
 Sauval en la decrivant : le plafond en noyer, sculpt^, rehausse d'or 
 moulu, du centre duquel' " sortent," dit-il, " les armoiries de France, 
 foulant un grand monceau de casques, d'ep^es, de lances, &c," et aux 
 portes, en meme temps que " le dessin et la tendresse des demi-reliefs " 
 . . . deux merveilleuses vipferes " aux ecailles delicates et serrees." ' — 
 Paris h travers les dges. 
 
 Salle III. , ' La Ckambre de Parade. ' — The faded tapestries belonged 
 to Mazarin. The wood panelling is from the chamber of Henri II. 
 
 ' Les curieux et les musiciens la trouvaient si accomplie que non- 
 seulement ils la nommaient la plus belle chambre du monde, mais pre- 
 tendent qu'en ce genre c'est le comble de toutes les perfections dont 
 I'imagination se puisse former une idie.' — Sauval. 
 
 The silver statue of Peace in the centre of the room is by Claudet, 
 1806. 'Over the chimney is a portrait of Henri II. 
 
musAe des dessins, des bronzes 8s 
 
 Salle IV. — In the middle is a silver statue of Henry IV. as a boy, 
 by F. Bosio (taken from a picture). In a case on the right Is the curious 
 copper basin, called Baptistire ds S. Louis, in which all the children 
 of Kings of France were baptised. A collection of small objects in the 
 same case belonged to Marie Antoinette. 
 
 In the Pavilion Central (covered with bees) which Napoleon I. 
 intended to use as a throne-room, and which bears his name on the 
 ceiling, are a number of works of art — the best, Italian. Opening from 
 this room is a hall containing various works of art, gifts to the Louvre. 
 
 By the landing of the Assyrian staircase we reach the 
 Collections of the Middle Ages and Renaissance. 
 
 Salle des terres-cuites et Delia Robbia. 
 
 Salle des faiences italiennes et des faiences de Nevers. 
 
 Salle des faiences hispano-moresques et italiennes. 
 
 Salle des faiences frangaises. A case of exquisite XVI. c. 
 
 Salle des petits bronzes. Many most beautiful. 
 
 Salle des verreries. 
 
 Salle Sauvageot. Mediaeval art. (Called after a former conservator.) 
 
 Salle des ivoires. 
 
 The Musk des Dessins occupies fourteen rooms. The 
 drawings of the French School are especially interesting. 
 The foreign collection includes exquisite sketches by Fra 
 Bartolommeo, Raffaelle, Michelangelo, Perugino, Titian, 
 Leonardo da Vinci, Albert Durer, &c. 
 
 Passing the head of a staircase, a wrought-iron gate from 
 Maisons leads to the Salle des Bronzes, containing a precious 
 collection, including — 
 
 Beautiful Head of a Young Man, from Beneventum. 
 Apollo in gilt bronze, found at Lillebonne, 1823. 
 Apollo from Piombino, with an inscription, in silver let into the left 
 heel. 
 
 We now find ourselves at the head of the stairs by which 
 we entered, or, if we care to ascend the staircase we have 
 just passed, we may visit the Musee de Marine, the Salle 
 
86 PARIS 
 
 Ethnographique, and the Musce Chinois, which are not of 
 general interest to an English traveller. 
 
 The, Sculpture Galleries on the ground floor of the 
 Louvre are entered by the Pavilion Denon, on the right of 
 the Place du Carrousel, Following the gallery on the left, 
 adorned with fragments or copies of antique sculpture, 
 ascending several steps, and leaving the new staircase to 
 the right, we descend to the — 
 
 Vestibule Dai~u, where we should notice — 
 Eight bas-reliefs from the palace at Thessalonica. 
 Sarcophagus from Salonica, with Battle of the Amazons. 
 Salk de la Rotonde. — The ceiling is coloured with figures in stucco 
 by Michel Auguier. We must notice — 
 In Centre. The Mars Borghese. 
 r, 75, Lycian Apollo. 
 
 (Turning right.) Salle de Mklne. — . 
 
 Almost all the statues here and in most of the other rooms are so 
 much ' restored ' that they have little interest ; the heads, though antique, 
 seldom belong to the statues. 
 
 The Salles des Saisons were decorated by Romanelli with the alle- 
 gories of the Seasons, alternating with the story pf Apollo and Diana. 
 Under Louis XV. this was the hall of audience of the Minister of War 
 and of the President of the' Great Council. 
 
 The great Mithraic relief (569) here is very important, as the first 
 known to antiquaries, and as bearing inscriptions which have given rise 
 to great discussion. It comes from the cave of Mithras on the Capito- 
 lineHill. 
 
 Salle de la Paix (or Salle de Rome) — named from paintings by 
 Romanelli, framed in bas-reliefs by Auguier — which formed the first of 
 the apartments of Anne of Austria, and which looks upon the little 
 garden, called yart/zw de V Infante (from the Spanish Infanta, who came 
 in 1 72 1 as an intended bride for Louis XV.) : a garden laid out by 
 Nicolas Guerin, and admired by Evelyn. 
 
 In the Centre (465). Rome — a porphyry statue — ^seated on a rock, 
 from the collection of Cardinal Mazarin. 
 
GALERIES DE SCULPTURE 87 
 
 Salle de Septime-Sivire. — 
 
 r. 315. Antinous. A most beautiful bust. 
 
 /. Six busts of Septimius Severus. 
 
 /. Statue of Julian the Apostate. 
 Salle des Antonins, — 
 
 /. 12. Colossal head of Lucilla. Found at Carthage, 1847. 
 
 /. Fine busts of Lucius Verus and Marcus Aurelius. From the 
 villa of Lucius Verus, at Acqua Traversa, near Rome, 
 
 Salle d'Auguste. — 
 
 Centre. Colossal bust of Antinous, represented as an Egyptian 
 
 god with the lotus in his hair. From the Villa Mondragone, 
 
 at Frascati. 
 *l84. Roman Orator, as Mercury. Signed by the Athenian 
 
 sculptor Cleomenes ; from the Villa Borghese. 
 468. Colossal bust of Rome, with two wolves suckling Romulus 
 
 and Remus on the helmet. From Villa Borghese. 
 End Wall. A beautiful statue of Augustus, once in the Vatican. 
 
 Amongst the busts, those of Octavia, sister of Augustus, and 
 
 Vitellius, are the best. 
 
 Returning to the Salle de la Rotonde, we find, on the 
 right, the — ■ 
 
 Salle de Phidias, — 
 
 Centre. Headless statue of Juno (Her^) from her temple at 
 
 Samos. 
 r. g, 10, II. Reliefs from Thasos. Above 125 fragments of 
 the frieze of the Parthenon. 1 26 : Metope from the Parthenon. 
 /. Relief of the Story of Orpheus and Eurydice. 
 
 Reliefs from the Temple of Assos in the Tread. 
 Side near Court, 1st Recess, Relief from the tomb of Philis, 
 daughter of Clemedes of Thasos. 
 Salle du Tibre. — 
 *449. The Tiber — found at Rome in the XIV. c. — with the 
 wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, discovered with the 
 Nile of the Vatican in the XVI. o. 
 250. Silenus and Bacchus. From the Villa Borghese, 
 98. Diana of Versailles, or Diane k la Biche. 
 Salle du Gladiateur. — 
 
 Centre, 97. Diana (?). From Gabii. 
 
 276. Bust of Satyr. Found at Vienne. 
 
88 PARIS 
 
 (Second Window.) * ' The Borgliese Gladiator '—from the Villa 
 Borghese— .really the statue of an armed runner in the 
 hoplitodromos. The inscription bears the name of the 
 sculptor— Agesias of Ephesos. Found at Antium in the 
 XVII. c. 
 135. Venus Genitrix. The Venus d'Ailes, which was restored 
 by Girardon, and placed by Louis XIV. in the Grande 
 Galerie of Versailles. 
 Salle de Pallas. — 
 
 70. Apollo Sauroctonos. 
 137. Venus. Found at Aries in 1651. 
 493. ' Le G^nie du Repos Etemel.' 
 *1I4. In the centre, the famous Pallas of Velletri, the best statue 
 of Minerva known ; found in 1797. This is a Roman copy 
 of a Greek work of the best period. 
 Salle de Melpomine. — 
 386. Colossal statue of the Tragic Muse. Ceded to France by 
 the treaty of Tolentino. 
 iteft.) Salle de la Vinus de Milo.— 
 *I36. The Venus of Milo, found February 1820, near the moun- 
 tain-village of Castro, in the island of Melos, by a peasant 
 named Jorgos and his son, Antonio Bottonis. They 
 offered it for sale for 25,000 francs to the French consul, 
 Louis Brest, but he hesitated to disburse so large a sum 
 for his Government, and it was the account which Dumont 
 d'Urville, a young lieutenant on board the man-of-war 
 ' La ChevrettS,' took to the Marquis de la Riviere, am- 
 bassador at Constantinople, of the marvellous statue he 
 had seen upon his voyage, which secured the Melian Venus 
 for Paris. The statue was at first believed to be the 
 work of Praxiteles, till, on the pedestal, the Messieurs 
 Debay found, in Greek characters, the inscription — 
 ' Andros, Menides' son, from Antioch on the Meander, 
 made the work.' But the pedestal underwent a change 
 in the workshop of the Louvre : the inscription is no 
 longer there, its ever having existed is denied by many, 
 and the author of the statue is still uncertain. It is, how- 
 ever, universally allowed that when the statue was first 
 found, its left arm was in existence, outstretched, and hold- 
 ' ing an apple — perhaps a symbol of the island of Melos. 
 
SALLE DES CARIATIDES 89 
 
 ' In every stroke of the chisel, art judges will discover evidence of 
 the fine perception the Hellenic master had for every expression, even 
 the slightest, of a nobly-developed woman's form. In the whole, and 
 in every part, one finds the full-blown flower of womanly beauty. In 
 every contour therf is a moderation that includes luxuriance and ex- 
 cludes weakness. To the flesh the words of Homer have been applied, 
 "it blooms with eternal youth," and anything comparable to it will not 
 have been seen, be it in the sculptured works of the old or the new. 
 Even the manner in which the outer skin, the " epidermis," is repro- 
 duced in the marble, is praised as unsurpassable. After rubbing with 
 pumice stone, it was customary with the Hellenic sculptors of the good 
 period, to let the chisel skim lightly over the surface of the marble, 
 when they wished to produce the effect of a skin warm with life, and 
 soft as velvet. On far too many antique works, however, this outer 
 skin has been destroyed by polishing. Here nothing of the kind has 
 taken place ; the naked parts shine like an elastic cellular tissue, in the 
 warm tint of the Parian marble.' — Viktor Rydberg. 
 Salle de la Psychi. — 
 
 /. 371. Greek statue of Pysche. From the Villa Borghese. 
 
 r. 265. Dancing Faun. From the collection of Cardinal Mazarin. 
 
 Salle d'' Adonis. — 
 
 /. 172. Sarcophagus representing the Departure, Accident, and 
 Death of Adonis. 
 
 Salle ^Hercule et Tiliphe.— 
 
 1. 325. Eros Farn^se. Found in the Famese garden, 1862. 
 r. 461. Hermaphrodite. From Velletri. 
 
 Salle de Midee. — 
 
 I. 282. Splendid sarcophagus representing the Vengeance of 
 
 Medea. 
 Centre. Venus — a stooping figure. Found at Vienne. 
 Corridor de Pan, whence, on the left, we enter the^ 
 Salle des Cariatides — formerly the Salle des Gardes, or des Cent 
 Suisses (of the hundred Swiss guards)— which preceded the apartments 
 of Catherine de Medicis. The beautiful carj'atides, which sustained 
 the tribune, are masterpieces of Jean Goujon. 
 
 * L'art de la renaissance n'a rien produit de plus beau que les 
 quatre figures de femmes donnees par Jean Goujon pour supports i la 
 tribune. Toujours gracieux et delicat, Jean Goujon s'est encore sur- 
 passe lui-meme cette fois. Aucune de ses oeuvres ne nous semble 
 
90 ' PARIS ■ -. 
 
 atteindre le meme degri de distinction et de s&initi majestueuse, la 
 meme purete de forme et de sentiment. Des colonnes se groupent sur ' 
 les parois et se disposent en portique vers la cheminfe. Les bandeaux 
 qui traversent la voflte, sent couverts de sculptures, une Diane chas- 
 seresse, une Venus sortant de I'onde, des attributs de chasse, des 
 chiens, des guirlandes de fleurs et de fruits.' — De Guilhermy. 
 
 Here, in March 1583, the hundred and twenty pages of Henri- 
 
 III. were soundly whipped for having laughed at the king as he was 
 walking in the procession des flagellants. Here was celebrated the 
 marriage of Henri IV. with Marguerite de Valois ; and here the 
 wax effigy of the king lay in a chapelle ardente after his murder, 
 May 14, 1610. It was also here that the Huguenot sister of Henri 
 
 IV. would edify the Court by her preachings, and then comfort their 
 hearts by dancing in a ballet. And in this room Moliers played his 
 first pieces, and the Institute used to hold its meetings. 
 
 Centre. 217. Bacchus. From the chiteau of Richelieu. 
 
 31. Jupiter " de Versailles." Given by Marguerite 
 d'Autriche to Cardinal de Granville, and brought 
 from Besanyon to Versailles after being presented 
 to Louis XIV. 
 *235. Vase Borghese. From the Gardens of Sallust.: 
 217. Bacchus {de Richelieu). 
 Minerva. From Crete. 
 *476. Victory, found in Samothrace, 1863 — a draped 
 figure in rapid motion. 
 r. Bust of Sophocles. 
 ' The face is that of an elderly and very thoughtful man, with 
 noble features, and of great beauty, but not without an expression of 
 patience and of sorrow such as became him who has been well called 
 der Prophet des Weltschmerzes. ' — Mahaffy. 
 
 I. In a window. Dog, from Gabii ; very beautiful. 
 /. In a window. 374. The Borghese Hermaphrodite. 
 
 The Musk de Sculpture du Moyen Age et de la Re^ 
 
 naissance is entered from the south fagade of the court of 
 
 the Louvre, on the east side of the south gate. It is full 
 
 of interest to anyone who has travelled much in France. 
 
 The tombs and sculptures removed from still existing 
 
 churches in Paris would be of much greater interest in the 
 
MOYEN ACE ET RENAISSANCE 91 
 
 places for which they were intended, but, in the city of con- 
 stant revolutions, they are safer here. 
 
 Corridor d'enirh, — 
 
 70. Painted statue of Chlldebert (XIII. c.) which stood at 
 the entrance of the refectory in the abbey of S. Germain 
 des Pris. 
 72. Four angels (XIII. c), from the abbey of PoLssy. 
 
 76. Statue of the Virgin and Child (XIV. c), from the church 
 
 of Maisoncelles, near Provins. 
 
 77. Pierre de Fayet, canon of Paris. 1303. 
 
 80. Tomb of Pierre d'Evreux-Navarre, Comte de Mortain 
 
 (XVI. c). 
 
 • A true and simple statue : head and hands striking and natural : 
 military coat thrown back.'— Z-«Mff. 
 
 81. Catherine d'Alen9on, wife of Pierre d'Evreux (XV. c.) 
 
 ' Even finer than the statue of her husband, with simple and 
 beautiful drapery. Both these figures are from the Chartreuse in 
 Paris. ' — Liibke, 
 
 82. Anne deBourgogne, Duchess of Bedford, 1450. "By Guillaume 
 
 Viniten. 
 
 The Corridor leads to the Salle de Jean Goujon. — 
 
 Centre. 100. Diana. From the Chateau d'Anet., "By Jean Goujon. 
 *112. Funeral Monument, by Germain Pilon, ordered 
 (1559) by Catherine de Medicis, which contained 
 the heart of Henri II. . in the church of the 
 Celestines. It is supported by the Graces (sup- 
 posed by the Celestines to be the Theological 
 Virtues) on a triangular pedestal by the Floren- 
 tine Domenico del Barbiere. This would more 
 appropriately find a place at S. Denis. 
 118-121. The Four Cardinal Virtues by Germain Pilon. 
 Wooden figures which, till the Revolution, sup- 
 ported the shrine of S. Geneviive in S. Etienne 
 du Mont. 
 
 Beginning from the right wall we see — 
 97-99. Fragments of the original Fontaine des Innocents, by Jean 
 ^Goujon. . '. _ . . : ... 
 
92 PARIS 
 
 152. Medallion portrait of the poet Philippe Desportes, from his 
 tomb at Bonport, in Normandy. 
 
 136. Henri III., by Germain Pilon. 
 
 117. Tomb of Ren^ Birague, Chancellor of France, and Car- 
 dinal Bishop of Lod^ve, an active agent in the massacre 
 of S. Bartholomew, by Germain Pilon. 
 
 130. Charles IV., by Germain Pilon. 
 
 103. Philippe de Chabot, Admiral" of France. Attributed to _/«»« 
 Cousin. 
 
 129. Henri II., by Germain Pilon. 
 
 107. Part of the tomb of Franjois de la Rochefoucault and his 
 wife, Anne de Polignac, I5I7> ^y Jean Cousin. 
 
 *go. The Judgment of Daniel upon Susanna, a relief by Daniel 
 Rihier of Lorraine. A haut-relief. 
 91. A.Tige\s, \>y Daniel Pihier. 
 
 146. Figures from a tomb in S. Andr^ des Arts, by Barthilemy 
 Prieur. 
 *I44. Tomb of Madeleine de Savoie, Duchesse de Montmorency, 
 wife of the Constable Anne. From S. Martin of Mont- 
 morency. Barthilemy Prieur. 
 *I35, 135. Nymphs. Jean Goujon. 
 
 85, 86. Tomb of the historian Philippe de Commynes, Prince de 
 
 Talmont, 151 1, and his wife, Helene de Chambres, 1531. 
 
 From the chapel which they built in the Grands Augustins. 
 
 123-127. Part of the pulpit of the Grands Augustins, by Germain 
 
 Pilon. 
 
 143. Part of the Tomb of the Constable Anne, Due de Mont- 
 morency. Barthilemy Prieur. From S. Martin, Mont- 
 morency. 
 
 113. Tomb of Valentine Balbiani, wife of Ren^ Birague, by 
 Germain Pilon. From S. Catherine de la Coulture. 
 92-96. The Deposition from the Cross and the Four Evangelists. 
 From the rood-loft of S. Germain I'Auxerrois ; by Jean 
 Goujon. 
 106, 107. Funeral Genii from the tomb of Admiral Philippe de 
 Chabot. Jean Goujon. From the church of the Celestines. 
 138-142. Parts of the grand tomb of Anne de Montmorency, once in 
 the church of S. Martin de Montmorency. - Barthilemy 
 Prieur, 
 
 122. Chimney-piece from the Chateau de Villeroy, by Germain 
 Pilon ; with (lOl) Henri II., \rj Jean Goujon. 
 
MO YEN AGE ET RENAISSANCE 
 
 93 
 
 1 1 5- 1 1 7. Part of the tomb of the family of Coss^-Brissac. Etienne le 
 Hongre, 1690. 
 
 r. Salle de Michel- Ange. — 
 
 17. In the centre is a fountain from the Chateau of Gaillon, of 
 Italian work, the gift of the Republic of Venice to Car- 
 dinal d'Amboise. 
 
 High on right Wall. The Nymph of Fontainebleau, by Ben- 
 venuto Cellini, ordered by Franfois I. Instead of placing 
 it at Fontainebleau, Henri II. gave it to Diane of Poitiers, 
 who placed it in her chSteau of Anet. It was brought to 
 Paris at the Revolution. 
 
 36. Tomb of Albert de Savoie, 1535, by Ponzio (Maltre Ponce). 
 
 38. Tomb of Andre Blondel de Roquencourt, 1538, by Poneio. 
 12 bis. Madonna, by Mino da Fiesole. 
 
 48. Bronze Madonna. Fromthe ChiteauofFontainebleau(XV.c.). 
 
 57. S. John Baptist. Donatella. 
 
 Hercules and the Hydra. A bronze group given by Louis 
 XIV. to Richelieu, which in turn has ornamented Marly, 
 Meudon, and S. Cloud. 
 Filippo Strozzi, by Benedetto da Majano, 1491. 
 28-29. Two slaves, by Michelangelo, executed for the tomb of 
 Julius II., but given by the sculptor to Roberto Strozzi, 
 who gave them to Fran9ois I. The king gave them to 
 the Conn^table de Montmorency for the Chiteau of 
 Ecouen, whence they passed, after his death, into the 
 hands of Richelieu, who took them to his chateau in 
 Touraine. The Mar&hal de Richelieu brought them 
 back to Paris in the middle of the XVIII. c, and 
 they were seized for the state when about to be sold 
 by his widow in 1 795- They now stand on either side of 
 a magnificent XV. c. doorway from the Palazzo Spanga 
 at Cremona, Beyond this are — 
 
 87. Tomb of Louis Poncher, Secretaire du Roi, 1491, and 
 
 Minister of Finance to Francois I. This, and the statue 
 
 of his wife, Roberte (1520 and 1521), were probably exe- 
 
 cnted soon after 1505, when Poncher founded the chapel 
 
 . of S. Germain I'Auxerrois, whence they were brought. 
 
 ' Both are represented as lying in the calm sleep of death ; the 
 treatment of the husband is grand and noble, the drapery splendidly 
 arranged, and the heads exhibit much fine individual characterisation : 
 
94 PARIS 
 
 the beautiful features of the lady especially wear the touching calmness 
 of a glorified condition. These works are amongst the most exquisite 
 productions of their glorious time. ' — Liibke. 
 
 37. Statue of Charles de Magny, Capitaine de la Porte du Roi. 
 
 Ponzio, 1556. 
 16. Louis XII. , a statue by Lorenzo da Mugiano. From Gaillon. 
 84 bis. Virgin and Child. French, early XVI. c. 
 
 84, S. George. A relief by Michel Colomb, 1508, executed for 
 
 the chapel in the chiteau of Gaillon. 
 88. Tomb of Roberte Legendre, the wife of Louis Poncher, 
 
 1 522. From S. Germain I'Auxerrois ; very beautiful and 
 
 simple. 
 
 In the embrasure of the windows are bas-reliefs in bronze from the 
 tomb of Marc- Antonio delta Torre, physician of Padua, hy Andrea Riccio. 
 
 Salle des Auguier. — 
 
 Centre. Monument of Henri de Longueville, by Francois Auguier. 
 Froin the church of the Celestines. 
 
 164. ' La Renommee.' From the tomb of the Due d'Epemon at 
 
 Cadillac in Guienne. 
 60 bis. Mercury, by Giovanni da Bologna. 
 
 64, 67. Four conquered nations, by Pierre Prancheville, 1548. 
 From the base of the equestrian statue of Henri IV. by 
 Giovanni da Bologna and Pietro Pacca on the Pont Neuf, 
 where it was destroyed at the Revolution. 
 r. 161, 162. Four Bronze Dogs. From the Chateau de Fontainebleau ; 
 by Prancheville. 
 r. 193. Tomb of Jacques Souvr^ de Courtenvaux, by F. Auguier, 
 1604-1669. 
 147. Henri IV. Barthilemy Prieur. 
 63. David and Goliath. Pierre Prancheville. 
 igi. Tomb of Jacques Auguste de Thou. Francois Auguier. 
 From S. Andre des Arts. 
 62. Orphde. Pierre Prancheville. 
 170. Louis XIII. Jean Warin. 
 169. Tomb of Charlotte de la Tremouille, Princesse de Conde. 
 
 From the convent of Ave Maria. 
 167. Anne d'Autriche. Simon Guillain. 
 
 165. Louis XIV. as a child. Simon Guillain. 
 
 166. Louis XIII. Simon Guillain. 
 
MO YEN AGE ET RENAISSANCE 95 
 
 These three statues, and the relief above, commemorated, the 
 bridge begun (1639) under Louis XIII. and finished (1647) under the 
 regency of Anne of Austria. 
 
 Mercury : Pierre Francheville. 
 
 Salle de la Cheminie.de Bruges (left of corridor on entering). — 
 
 Centre, 70 bis. Copper sepulchral statue of Blanche de Cham- 
 pagne, wife of Jean I., Due de Bretagne, 1283, executed at Limoges 
 early XIV. c. for the abbey of Joie, near Hennebout, of which she 
 had been the foundress. 
 
 r. The celebrated historic skeleton figure from the Cimeti^re des 
 Innocents, commonly called ' La Mart Saint- Innocent'' — of alabaster, 
 attributed to Franyois Gentil of Troyes. In the cemetery it stood under 
 the fifth arcade of the ' charnier de Messieurs les Martins,' having been 
 ordered by them. It was in a box, of which the churchwardens had the 
 keys. On All Saints' Day and till the middle of the day after, the efSgy 
 was shown to the people. With its right hand the skeleton holds the folds 
 of a shroud, its left points with a dart to a scroll, on which is engrav.ed — 
 ' II n'est vivant, tant soit plein d'art, 
 Ni de force pour r&istance, 
 Que je ne frappe de mon dard. 
 Pour bailler aux vers leur pitance.' 
 In 1670 the canons of S. Germain removed the skeleton, that it 
 might not be injured by new buildings in the Rue de la Ferronerie. 
 On December 13, 1671, la figure de jaspe reprhentant la mart, which 
 had been given to the care of the churchwardens, was reclaimed, and 
 a judgment of July 31, 1673, ordered its restitution to its old position. 
 But in 1686 the skeleton seems to have been still in the care of a 
 churchwarden named Noiret in the Rue des Fers, who tried to sell it, 
 but was forced to restore it in 1688, when it was placed between the 
 pillars in the Charnier de la Vierge in a closed box. Here it remained 
 forty-eight years. But (October 29, 1736) the canons of S. Germain 
 rAuxerrois moved it, and placed it at the back of the cemetery lower. 
 Upon this the Cure des S. Innocents and the churchwardens, for- 
 getting that the canons were the owners of the charniers, climbed the 
 tower and carried off the skeleton. A lawsuit ensued and (July 10, 
 1737) a judgment was obtained forcing the restitution of the skeleton. 
 
 On suppression of the church, cemetery, and charniers of the Inno- 
 cents, in 1786, the skeleton was carried to S. Jacques la Boucherie, then 
 to the museum of Alexandre Lenoir, whence it passed to the Louvre. 
 
 Statues from the central pavilion of the Tuileries. 
 
96 PARIS 
 
 Salle Chritienne {right of Corridor). — 
 Tomb of S. Drausin, twenty-second bishop of Soissons. From 
 
 the abbey of Notre Dame de Soissons — early Merovingian 
 
 sculpture. The cover of the sarcophagus does not belong to 
 
 it, and comes from S. Germain des Pr&. 
 Sarcophagus of Livia Primitiva. From Rome. 
 Sarcophagus from Riguieux-le-Franc, with Christ and the Apostles, 
 
 placed two and two in compartments divided by columns. 
 Altar-frout of S. Ladre from the Abbaye de S. Denis. 
 
 Salle Juddiijue. — 
 
 I. La stele de Mesah. A Semitic inscription of thirty-four lines, 
 containing the history of the wars of Moab with Israel, 
 
 S96 A.C. 
 5. Fragment of a lava door from the cities of Moab. 
 Sarcophagi from the tombs of the kings. 
 
 The Egyptian Museum of Sculpture is entered from the 
 east side of tlie Court of the Louvre, by the door on the 
 right as you face S. Germain I'Auxerrois. The collection 
 is magnificent. One cannot but recall here the words of 
 Napoleon I. to his army before the Pyramids : ' Allez et 
 pensez que, du haut de ces monuments, quarante sifecles vous 
 observent.' The museum forms a complete encyclopaedia of 
 the religion, arts and customs of the Egyptians, In the Salle 
 Henri IV. the hieroglyphics on the granite sphinx from 
 Tanis (numbered 233) record the name of King Meneptah, 
 under whom the exodus of the Israelites took place, and 
 that of Sheshouk I., the Shishak who was the conqueror of 
 Rehoboam. The Salle cPApis is called after the bull in the 
 centre, sacred to Ptah, the god of Memphis. 
 
 Facing the entrance of the Egyptian collection is that 
 of the Musk Assyrien. Most of the objects here come 
 from the palace of King Sargon VIII. (b.c. 722-705) at 
 Khorsabad, ' or from that of Sardanapalus V. (VII. c.) at 
 
SCULPTURE MODERNE FRANqAISE 97 
 
 Nineveh. Most magnificent are the four winged bulls, 
 whose heads are supposed to be portraits of kings. 
 
 From the north side of the court of the Louvre is the 
 entrance of the Musk de Gravure ou de Chalcographie. An 
 enormous plan of Paris, engraved 1739, is invaluable to 
 topographers. A collection of portraits in pastel includes 
 that of Mme de Pompadour, by Latour. 
 
 The Sculpture Moderne Franfaise is reached on the north 
 of the Pavilion Sully, on the west of the court of the Louvre. 
 It is contained in the — 
 
 Salle de Puget. — 
 
 204. Perseus and Andromeda, Milo and Croton, by Puget. From 
 
 the gardens of Versailles. 
 209. A small copy by Girardon of the statue of Louis XIV., 
 
 in the Place Vendome, destroyed in the Revolution. 
 245, 246. Geometry and Charity, by Legros. 
 
 Salle de Coysevox. — 
 227. Tomb of Cardinal Mazarin. From the chapel of the College 
 des Quatre Nations, now the Institute. C. Ant. Coysevox. 
 234. Shepherd and young Satyr. From the private garden of the 
 Tuileries. Coysevox, 
 The Rhone. From S. Cloud. Coysevox. 
 233. Marie-Adelaide de Savoie, Duchesse de Bourgogne, as a 
 hunting Diana. Coysevox. From the gardens of Trianon. 
 Bronze bust of Louis II, de Bourbon — 'le grand Conde.' 
 
 Coysevox. 
 Venus, from the gardens of Versailles. Coysevox. 
 Busts of Lebrun, Bossuet, Richelieu, Marie Serre (the 
 mother of Rigaud), and of the sculptor himself. Coysevox. 
 193. Amphitrite. Michel Auguier. 
 Salle de Coustou. — 
 
 150 bis. Adonis reposing after the Chase. Nicolas Coustou. 
 151, 155. Louis XV. and Marie Leczinska. From the gardens of 
 
 Trianon. Guillauvie Coustou. 
 250. Julius Caesar. Nicholas Coustou. 
 268. Hannibal. Sebastien Slodtz. 
 Music. Falconnet. , 
 
98 PARTS 
 
 Bas-reliefs in bronze. From the pedestal of the statue of 
 Louis XIV. in the Place des Vicioires. Desjardins. 
 1 70. Mercury attaching the Wings of his Heels. Pilgale. 
 Salle de Houdon. — 
 296. Diana. Houdon. 
 284 bis. Bacchante. Pajou. 
 272. Cupid. Bouchardon. 
 284. Bust of Mme du Barry. Pajou. 
 
 Model of Statue of Louis XV. Bouchardon. 
 
 Salle de Chaudet. — 
 
 314. Cupid. Chaudet. 
 
 307, Homer. Roland. 
 
 338. Daphnis and Chloe. Cortot. 
 
 383. Cupid and Psyche. Canova. 
 
 313. The shepherd Phorbas and Oedipus. Chaudet. 
 
 Salle de Rude. — 
 
 Mercury, Jeanne Dare, Young Neapolitan Fisherman, 
 
 Christ, Louis David. Rude. 
 Theseus contending with the Minotaur. Ramey. 
 Psyche, Sappho, a son of Niobe, the Toilette of Atalanta. 
 
 Pradier, 
 Venus. Simart. 
 Spartacus. Foyatier. 
 382. Philopoemon. David d' Angers. 
 
 Fisherman dancing the Tarantella, a Vintager improvising. 
 
 Duret. 
 Despair, and the Infancy of Bacchus, jfoseph Perraud. 
 
 It was from the end of the palace facing S. Germain 
 I'Auxerrois that the Empress Eugdnie escaped, at 2\ p.m., 
 on September 4, 1870. 
 
 ' On arriva jusqu'i la colonnade de Louis XIV. , en face de lYglise 
 Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois, et c'est Ik, devant la grille doree, que 
 rimperatrice et Mme Lebreton mont^rent dans un fiacre. M. de 
 Metternich jeta au cocher ces simples mots : " Boulevard Hausmann." 
 
 ' Un gamin d'une quinzaine d'annees, en blouse et en casquette, 
 qui passait a ce moment, s'ecria : 
 
 ' — Tiens, elle est bien bonne, tout de m^me ..... C'est 
 rimperatrice ! 
 
5. GERMAIN L'AUXERROJS 99 
 
 ' Son exclamation, heureusement pour les fugitives , fut couverte 
 par le bruit du fiacre, qui s'etait deji mis en mouvement et roulait 
 dans la direction de la rue de Rivoli.' — Comte d' Hirisson. 
 
 The Rue du Louvre occupies the site of several famous 
 buildings, including the later Hotel de Condd or Hotel de 
 Bourbon, destroyed 1758, where Louis de Bourbon, son 
 of le Grand Cond6, the eccentric savage, who played so 
 conspicuous a part in the reign of Louis XIV., and who 
 married one of his daughters by Mme de Montespan, died 
 suddenly in 17 10, while his wife was giving a carnival ball. 
 Here also stood the Maison du Doyen (de S. Germain), in 
 which Gabrielle d'Estr^es, the famous mistress of Henri IV., 
 died suddenly on Easter Eve 1599, after supping with 
 Sebastian Zamet, a former lover. It was at this entrance 
 of the Louvre that the unpopular minister Concini, beloved 
 by Marie de Medicis, w^s murdered, April 27, 1617, with 
 the connivance of her son Louis XIII. Facing us is the 
 parish church of the Louvre, S. Germain VAuxerrois, which 
 was founded in 560, by S. Germain of Paris, in memory of 
 his great namesake of Auxerre. As the royal church, it 
 held the first rank in Paris after the cathedral. It was taken 
 and turned into a fortress by the Normans in 886, and at 
 that time it was called, from its form, S. Germain le Rond. 
 Robert the Pious rebuilt the church 997-1031.' But the 
 earliest parts of the present building are the tower against 
 the south wall, the choir, and the principal entrance, of early 
 XIII. c. ; the chapels of the nave are XV. c. ; the porch, built 
 by Jean Gaussel (1435), the fa9ade, transepts and chapels 
 ■ of choir, are of XV. and XVI. c, 
 
 ' Le porche, du commencement du xv' siecle, est parfaitement 
 
 ^ As is described in his Life by the monk Helgaud. 
 
 H 2 
 
100 PARIS 
 
 conju. II s'ouvre sur la face par trois arcades principales qui com- 
 prennent la largeur de la nef, et par deux arcades plus ^troites et plus 
 basses, au droit des collateraux ; une arcade serablable de chaque c6te, 
 en retour, donne des issues laterales. Les voutes, fermees sur les deux 
 travees extremes plus basses, sont sunnont^es de deux chambres cou- 
 vertes par deux combles aigus et eclair^es par de petites fenetres perches 
 dans les tympans rachetant la difference de hauteur entre les grands et 
 petits arcs. Une balustrade couronne cette construction couverte en, 
 terrasse, sous la rose, dans la partie centrale. 
 
 ' La sculpture et les details de ce porche, bien des fois retouches 
 et depuis peu gratt^s ^ vif, manquent de caract^re, sont mous et 
 pauvres. Le porche n'est bon a ^tudier qu'au point de vue de I'ensem- 
 ble et de ses heureuses proportions. . . . On observera que les 
 arcades d'extr^mit^s ^tant plus basses que celles centrales, les fideles 
 reunis sous ce vestibule exterieur, profond d'ailleurs, sont parfaitement 
 abrit^s du vent et de la pluie, bien que la circulation soit facile. ' — 
 Viollet-le-Duc, vii. 304. 
 
 The Statues of S. Francis of Assisi and S. Mary of Egypt 
 are the only figures adorning the porch which are con- 
 temporary with it; the rest are modern, in imitation of 
 the early idealistic style, the angel on the gable being by 
 Marochetti. But the effect is picturesque, and the corridor 
 with its frescoes by Mottez, and the groups of beggars 
 who are always to be found on its steps, has afforded sub- 
 ject for many a picture. The central portal is XIII. c. 
 Of its six statues, that of S. Genevieve deserves notice, 
 with a candle which a demon is trying to extinguish, 
 whilst an angel holds a chandelier ready to give a fresh 
 light if he succeeds. On the left of the porch is the Salle 
 des Archives, an interesting room which preserves its old 
 pavement, doors, and wooden ceiling. 
 
 The church is cruciform, with double aisles, and an 
 encircling wreath of chapels. Once the interior was full 
 of interest, but this, for the most part, has been ' restored ' 
 away. The gothic choir was modernised by the miserable 
 
S. GERMAIN LAUXERROIS loi 
 
 architect Bacarit in 1715 ; the noble rood-loft, designed by 
 Pierre Lescot, and sculptured by Jean Goujou, has been 
 removed, and many of the -ancient tombs and sculptures 
 have vanished. Still there is an aspect of antiquity, colour, 
 and shadow here which is wanting in most Parisian churches. 
 The pulpit and stalls have survived the Revolution, and the 
 state seat occupied by the royal family on great solemnities, 
 executed in 1681, from designs of Lebrun, by Francois 
 Mercier. The choir grille is one of the best pieces of metal 
 work of the last century. The ancient bosses of the nave 
 and chapels have escaped being restored away, as they 
 could not be touched without weakening the fabric. 
 
 " Elles portent les figures de S. Vincent et de S. Germain, qui se 
 partageaient le patronage de I'eglise ; de S. Jacques le Majeur, de S. 
 Landry, de S. Christophe qui traverse un torrent avec le Christ enfant 
 sur les epaules. La plus gracieuse de toutes est le S. Germain en 
 habits ipiscopaux, peint et-dor^, qui se d^tache sur une rosace k jour, 
 a la derni^re trav^e de la chapelle de la Vierge. Quelques unes 
 paraissent avoir ete armoriees. Les colonnes reunies en faisceaux n'ont 
 pas de chapiteaux.' — De Guilhermy. 
 
 Making the round of the church we see — 
 r. The ind Chapel (of Notre Dame, XIV. c. ), with a wooden 
 
 screen, is a complete church, with stalls, organ, pulpit, &c. 
 
 In theretable is framed a stone Tree of Jesse, XIV. c. , from a 
 
 church in Champagne. Three statuettes, discovered behind 
 
 some panelling, are coeval with the chapel — a Madonna an 
 
 Child, with SS. Vincent and Germain. 
 Right Transept. Guichard : The Descent from the Cross. 
 South Door, XV. c, with a Virgin of XIV c. 
 ^th Chapel of Choir. Statues, by Laurent Magnier, of the two 
 
 Etiennes d'Aligre, father and son (1635, 1677), Chancellors of 
 
 France. 
 
 The greater part of the stained glass is modern, but 
 some glass of the XV. c. and XVI c. remains in the tran- 
 septs, especially in the rose windows. In the original 
 
102 PARIS 
 
 church, in 656, was buried S. Landericus or Landry, ninth 
 bishop of Paris, who founded the Hotel Dieu, and sold the 
 furniture of his house to feed the poor in a famine. In 
 the present church the jester of Charles V. (for whom the 
 king made a splendid tomb) ; the poet Malherbe ; the philo- 
 sopher Andrd Dacier ; the painters Coypel, Houasse, Stella 
 and Santerre ; the sculptors Sarazin, Desjardins and 
 Coysevox ; the architects Louis Levau and Frangois 
 d'Orbay ; the geographer Sanson, and the Comte de Caylus, 
 were buried, but their tombs are destroyed. Here also was 
 interred (1617) the ambitious Concini, Mar^chal d'Ancre, the 
 influential favourite of Marie de Medicis (to whose foster- 
 sister, Leonora Galigai, he was married), murdered by order 
 of her son Louis XIII., with the enthusiastic approval of 
 his subjects, before the eastern entrance of the Louvre; but 
 his rest here was brief 
 
 ' Le lendemain matin, les laquais des grands seigneurs, entralnant 
 aprfes eux la lie de la populace, se portferent k I'eglise de S. Germain 
 I'Auxerrois, oi I'on avait inhum^ en cachette le marechal d'Ancre, 
 deterrferent son cadavre, le trainerent par la villa avec des huees et des 
 clameurs obsc^nes, dans lesquelles le nom de la reine-mere etait m^le 
 au nom de Concini ; ils finirent par le mettre en pieces et par briiler 
 ses restes. Un forcen^ fit griller le coeur du marechal d'Ancre et le 
 devora ! — Henj-i Martin^ ^ Hist, de France.^ 
 
 S. Germain, being the parish church of the Louvre, was 
 attended by the sovereigns, when they were residing there, 
 on all great religious festivals. Louis XVI. and his family, 
 followed by the Assembly, walked in the procession of the 
 Fete-Dieu to this church, as late as May 23, 1790. In the 
 revolution of July, 1830, the church was transformed into 
 an ambulance, and the dead were buried in a trench hastily 
 dug opposite the entrance. It was here that the dog of one 
 
5. GERMAIN L'AUXERROIS 103 
 
 of the victims, 'le chien du Louvre,' as Casimir Delavigne 
 calls him, lay for v^eeks, and died upon the grave of the 
 master he had followed through the combat. On February 
 14, 1831, when an anniversary service for the death of the 
 Due de Berry was being celebrated, the people burst in and 
 sacked the church ; the stained-glass and stalls were broken, 
 and the tombs mutilated. For six years after this the building 
 was closed for worship, the sacristy and presbytery being used 
 as a mairie. Then its demolition was decided on, to make 
 way for a direct street from the Louvre to the Hotel de Ville. 
 It was only saved as a concession to the entreaties of Cha- 
 teaubriand that the authorities would spare ' un des plus 
 anciens monuments de Paris, et d'une dpoque dont il ne 
 restepresque plus rien.' In 1837 its restoration was begun. 
 It was the bell of S. Germain TAuxerrois which, at 
 2 A.M. of August 24, 1572, gave the first signal for the 
 Massacre of S. Bartholomew, at the order of the young 
 king, Charles IX., goaded on by his mother, Catherine de 
 Medicis. The bell was the sign agreed upon for the 
 massacre to begin in the quarter of the Louvre ; a little 
 later the bell of the Tour de I'Horloge, on the island, 
 announced the massacre on the left bank of the Seine. The 
 modern tower now marks the spot where an attempt had 
 been made two days before to murder Admiral Coligny (the 
 first victim of the massacre) as he was returning from an 
 interview with the king to his residence in the Hotel de 
 Ponthieu, in the Rue des Fosses S. Germain. 
 
 ' II marchait lentement, et lisait un memoire qu'on venait de lui 
 pr&enter ; comme il ^tait dans la rue des Fosses S. Germain I'Auxerrois, 
 en face d'une maison habitee par un nomme Villemur, ancien pre- 
 cepteur du due de Guise, un coup d'arquebuse, charge de deux balles 
 
104 PARIS 
 
 de cuivre, partit de cette maison, et atteignit Coligny. Une balle lui 
 coupa I'index de la main droite, I'autre lui fit une large blessure an bras 
 gauche. Coligny, sans montrer autant d'emotion que ceux qui I'accom- 
 pagnaient, indiqua la maison d'oi le coup ^tait parti, ordonna ^ un de 
 ses gentilshomraes d'aller dire au roi ce qui venait d'arriver, et, 
 soutenu par ses doinestiques, il se rendit a pied dans son logis. 
 
 ' On entra dans la maison d'oii on avail tir^ ; on y trouva 
 I'arquebuse ; mais I'assassin Maurevert, aussit&t apres le coup, avail 
 fui par une porte de derrifere, et, sur un cheval qui lui etait prepare, 
 avail gagn^ la porte S. Antoine, oil I'attendait un autre cheval, sur 
 lequel il s'eloigna de Paris.' — Dulaure, ' Hist, de Paris.' 
 
 A cloister formerly surrounded the church, which, in the 
 reign of Charlemagne, already enclosed a famous school 
 which has left its name to the Place de rEcole. Here 
 Etienne Marcel, Pr^vot de Paris, lived, and, as chief of the 
 Jacquerie, roused the fury of the people in the XIV. c. ; 
 and here Calvin lodged, at fourteen, with his uncle Richard, 
 a locksmith, in a little room looking on the church, of which 
 the chaunts awakened him in the morning to attend the 
 Collbge de la Marche. 
 
i°S 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 IN OLD PARIS. 
 
 From the Rue S. Honori to the Quartier des Halles and Quartier du 
 Temple, 
 
 ENGLISHMEN are often specially impressed with 
 Paris as a city of contrasts, because one side of the 
 principal line of hotels frequented by our countrymen looks 
 down upon the broad, luxurious Rue de Rivoli, all modern 
 gaiety and radiance, whilst the other side of their courtyards 
 opens upon the busy working Rue S. Honork, lined by the 
 tall, many-windowed houses which have witnessed so many 
 Revolutions. They have all the picturesqueness of innu- 
 merable balconies, high slated roofs with dormer windows, 
 window-boxes full of carnations and bright with crimson 
 flowers through the summer, and they overlook an ever- 
 changing crowd, in great part composed of men in blouses 
 and women in white aprons and caps. Ever since the 
 fourteenth century the Rue S. Honors has been one of the 
 busiest streets in Paris. It was the gate leading into this 
 street which was 'attacked by Jeanne Dare in 1429. It 
 was the fact that the Cardinal de Bourbon and the Due 
 de Guise had been seen walking together at the Porte S. 
 Honors that was said to have turned half the moustache of 
 
io6 I'ARIS 
 
 Henri of Navarre suddenly white, from a presentiment of 
 the crime which has become known as the Massacre of S. 
 Bartholomew. Here, in 1648, the barricade was raised 
 which gave the signal for all the troubles of the Fronde. 
 It was at No. 3 — then called L'Auberge des Trois Pigeons 
 — that Ravaillac was lodging when he was waiting to 
 murder Henry IV. ; here the first gun was fired in the 
 Revolution of July 1830, which overturned Charles X. ; 
 and here, in the Revolution of 1848, a bloody combat took 
 place between the insurgents and the military. Throughout 
 this street, as Marie Antoinette was first entering Paris, the 
 poissardes brought her bouquets, singing — 
 
 ' La rose est la reine des fleurs, 
 Antoinette est la reine des coeurs ; ' 
 
 and here, as she was being taken to the scaffold, they 
 crowded round her execution-cart and shouted — 
 
 ' Madame Veto avait promis 
 De faire egorger tout Paris, 
 Mais son coup a inanqu6 
 Grace i nos canonniers ; 
 Dansons la carmagnole 
 Au bruit du son 
 Du canon ! ' 
 
 Turning east towards Old Paris, we pass, on the right of 
 the Rue S. Honor^, the Church of S. Roch, of which 
 Louis XIV, laid the foundation-stone in 1633, replacing 
 a chapel built on the site of the Hotel Gaillon. The church 
 was only finished, from designs of Robert de Cotte, in 1 740. 
 The flight of steps which leads to the entrance has many 
 associations. 
 
 'Bevant Saint-Roch la charrette de Marie Antoinette fait une 
 station, au milieu des huees et des hurlements, Mille injures se levent 
 
5. ROCH 107 
 
 des degri5s de I'eglise comme une seule injure, saluant d'ordure cette 
 reine qui va mourir. Elle pourtant, sereine et majestueuse, pardonnait 
 aux injures en ne les entendant pas. ' — De Goncourt. 
 
 It was from these steps, in front of which an open space 
 then extended to the Tuileries gardens, that Bonaparte 
 ordered the first cannon to be fired upon the royalists who 
 rose against the National Convention, and thus prevented 
 a counter-revolution. Traces of this cannonade of 13 Ven- 
 d^miaire are still to be seen at the angle of the church 
 and the Rue Neuve S. Roch. The portal of S. Roch is 
 doric below and corinthian above. The interior of the 
 church, due to Antoine Le Mercier, consists of a wide 
 central nave with side aisles bordered by eighteen chapels, 
 a transept with chapels, and a choir with three chapels, one 
 behind the other — a plan confused, and contrary to all laws 
 of architecture, but certainly rather picturesque. Theo- 
 logical Virtues sustain the pulpit, where the veil of Error, 
 represented by a ponderous sculptured curtain, is giving 
 way before Catholic Truth. Against the pillar on the north 
 of the organ is a medalhon monument to Corneille, who 
 died in the Rue d'Argenteuil, October i, 1684. Making 
 the round of the church we may notice — 
 
 r. 1st Chapel. Tomb of Maupertuis. Huez. Medallion of 
 Marechal d'Asfeld, 1743 ; bust of Francois, Due de Crequi; 
 medallion of Mme Laleve de Juilly. Fakonnet, 
 
 ind Chapel. Bust of Mignard by Desjardins, part of a monu- 
 ment to which the figure of his daughter, Mme de Feuquieres, 
 belonged, now taken hence, to represent a Magdalen at 
 the foot of the Calvary. Tomb of the Comte d'Harcourt, 
 by Renard. Fine bust of Lenotre, by Coysevox. Tomb, 
 by Guillaume Coustou, of the infamous Cardinal Dubois, 
 minister under the Orleans Regency and during the early 
 years of Louis XV. This monument was brought from the 
 
io8 PARTS 
 
 destroyed church of St. Honore. The face of the kneeling^ 
 figure wears a most complacent expression. 
 
 ' II mourut maltre absolu de son maltre, et moins premier ministre 
 qu'exeryant toute la plenitude et toute I'ind^pendance de toute la 
 puissance et de toute I'autorite royale ; surintendant des postes, 
 cardinal, archev^que de Cambrai avec sept abbayes, dont il fut in- 
 satiable. Les folies publiques du cardinal Dubois, depuis surtout que 
 devenu le maitre il ne les contint plus, feraient un livre. Can est assez 
 pour montrer quel etait ce monstrueux personnage dont la mort soulagea 
 grands et petits, et en v^rite, toute I'Europe, enfin jusqu'i son fr^re 
 meme qu'il traitait comme un n^gre.' — 3'. Simon, ' Mhnoires.' 
 
 ' C'est bien le pretre le plus m^chant et le plus interess^ qu'il soit 
 possible de voir, et Dieu le punira.' — Correspondance de Madame 
 [Duchesse d'Orlians). 
 
 yd Chapel. Tomb of Charles, Due de Cr^qui. 
 Transept. ' La Guerison du Mai des Ardents,' a picture by 
 Doyen, which, with the ' Predication de S. Denis,' by Vien, 
 in the opposite transept, made a great sensation at the time 
 they appeared. 
 ' C'itait ddja une querelle anticipee entre les classique.s et les 
 romantiques. Les jeunes gens s'enthousiasmfeient pour la composition 
 theatrale et-pleine de Doyen : les burgraves du temps s'ecri^rent i 
 la decadence de I'art, et r^servirent leur admiration exclusive pour la 
 composition sage, calme et harmonieuse de Vien. ' — A. J. du Pays. 
 
 ^th Chapel. Of S. Clotilde, by Deviria. In the apse are 
 
 several pictures by Vien. ^ 
 
 Behind the Chapel of the Virgin (on left) is the entrance of the 
 Chapel of Calvary, rebuilt 1845. I' contains : a group of the 
 Entombment by De Seine ; a Crucifixion by Duseigneur ; and a 
 Christ on the Cross by Michel Auguier, formerly on the high- 
 altar of the Sorbonne. The statue of the Virgin is by Bogino. 
 The statue of the Madeleine, hy Lsmoine, was originally intended 
 to represent the Comtesse de Feuqui^res, daughter of Mignard. 
 1st Chapel of Nave. Monument of the Abbe de I'Epee, 1789, 
 celebrated for his noble devotion to ameliorating the condition 
 of the deaf-and-dumb, and founder of the institutions in their 
 favour. 
 yd Chapel. Monument erected, 1856, to Bossuet, who died, 
 
 1 704, in the Rue S. Anne, in this parish. 
 ^ih Chapel, or Baptistery. Group of the Baptism of Christ, by 
 Lemoine, formerly in S. Jean-en-Gr^ve. 
 
RUE DE JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU 109 
 
 Running north-west from the Rue S. Honore, behind 
 S. Roch, is the Hue d' Argenteuil, where No. 18 was in- 
 habited by Corneille. The street is crossed by the hand- 
 some Rue des Pyramides, at the end of which, facing the 
 Louvre, is an equestrian statue of Jeanne Dare by Fremiot. 
 
 It was at the corner of the next street, the Rue de 
 VEchelle, that the carriage, with M. de Fersen as coachman, 
 waited, with its agonised freight, for Marie Antoinette, whilst 
 she lost her way by leaving the Tuileries at the wrong exit 
 and wandering into the Rue du Bac, on the night of the 
 flight to Varennes. 
 
 Crossing the Place Royale (to which we shall return 
 later), we find on the left of Rue S. Honor^, running north- 
 east, the Rue de Jean-Jacgves Rousseau (formerly Rue 
 Pldtriere and Crenelle S. Honor^). Rousseau was born on 
 the second floor of No. 2, in 1622. In a neighbouring 
 house, the poet Frangois Rayner was born, in the same 
 year. In the garden of No. 12 are some remains of a 
 tower belonging to the walls of Philippe Auguste. At 
 No. 41 are some vestiges of the Hotel de Ferrifere, which 
 belonged to Jean de la Ferrifere, Vidame de Chartres, where 
 Jeanne d'Albret, mother of Henry IV., died, June g, 1572. 
 No. 58 was the Hotel des JFermes, where the fermiers- 
 ghikraux had their offices. It is of the XVI c, and 
 became, in 16 12, the property of Chancellor Siguier, 
 who rebuilt it and offered it as a site to the Acaddmie 
 Frangaise. No. 51, the Hotel de Bullion^ was formerly 
 Hotel d'Herwert or Epergnon. La Fontaine died in the 
 street in 1695. At the end of the street, on the left, is the 
 back of the new Post Office. The Rue de Sartine leads 
 hence at once to the Halle de BliS {see after). 
 
no PARIS 
 
 On the right of the Rue S. Honors, at the entrance of 
 the Rue de I'Oratoire, is the Church of the Oratoire. It 
 occupies the site of the Hotel de Montpensier, which 
 belonged to Joyeuse, one of the mignons of Henri III., 
 then of the Hotel du Bouchage, in which Gabrielle d'Estr^es 
 lived for a time, and where Henri IV. received (December 
 27, 1594) from Jean Chatel that blow on the mouth with 
 a knife, which caused the bold D'Aubignd to say to him : 
 ' Sire, God has struck you on the lips because you have 
 hitherto only denied Him with your mouth ; beware, for if 
 you deny Him with your heart, He will strike you in the 
 heart' M. de B^rulle bought the hotel for the Pferes de 
 la Congregation de I'Oratoire in 16 16, and Le Mercier was 
 employed by Louis XIII. in 1621 to erect a church for 
 them, that they might not suffer by the destruction of the 
 chapel of the H6tel du Bourbon, within the present courts 
 of the Louvre, which he was about to pull down. Thence- 
 forth the edifice was called I'Oratoire royal. It was built 
 at a peculiar angle that it might follow the direction of the 
 palace, and this adds to the effect of its stately portico. 
 Cardinal de Bdrulle died suddenly within its walls in 1690, 
 whilst saying mass in a chapel. He was, in France, the 
 founder of the Oratorians, 'un corps oil tout le monde ob^it 
 et oil personne ne commande.' ' Here the licentious 
 Regent d'Orldans used to go into retreat, 'k faire ses 
 piques.' The church was once famous for the preaching of 
 Massillon and Mascaron. At the Revolution it was used 
 as a hall for public meetings, and continued to be thus 
 employed till 1832, when it was given to the protestants, 
 and has since been celebrated for the eloquence of Grdtry, 
 
 ^ General Talon. 
 
RUE DE L'ARBRE SEC m 
 
 Coquerel, and Adolphe Monod. It was at the end of 
 the street nearest the Rue S. Honord that Paul Stuard 
 da Caussado, Comte de S. Megrim, lover of the Duchesse 
 de Guise, was murdered as he came from the Louvre, 
 July 21, 1578. 
 
 On the left is the Rue d'Orl^ans. 'Void la rue 
 d'Orldans,' said Louis XVI. as he crossed it on his way 
 to his trial. ' Dites la rue de I'Egalit^,' answered Chaumette, 
 the procureur-syndic of the Commune, who accompanied 
 him.' In this street stood the Hotel de Harlay, now 
 destroyed. 
 
 At the corner of the Jiue de PArhre Sec is a singular 
 house with a fountain beneath it, dating from 1529, but 
 reconstructed 1775. It was formerly called Fontaine de la 
 Croix du Trahoir, and marks one of the places of execution 
 before the Revolution, where a guillotine stood en per- 
 manence, at the foot of a gibbet. A nymph between the 
 windows on the first floor is by Jean Goujon. The original 
 name of the street — Rue du Trahoir — is said to have 
 resulted from Brunehaut, daughter, wife, mother, and 
 grandmother of kings, having been dragged through it, at 
 eighty, at a horse's tail. This was one of the spots used for 
 the burning of protestants, and Nicholas Valeton was burnt 
 here, under Frangois I. 
 
 ' Henri III. passoit ^ la croix du Trahoir comme on pendoit un 
 homme. Ce pauvre diable cria, Grdce, grdce, sire I Le roi ayant su 
 du greffier que son crime etoit grand, dit en souriant : " Eh bien, qu'on 
 ne le pende pas qu'il n'ait dit son in manus." Le galant homme, 
 quand on en vint I^, jura qu'il s'en garderoit bien et ne le diroit de sa 
 vie, puisque le roi avoit ordonn^ qu'on ne le pendit point auparavant. 
 II s'y obstina si fort qu'il fallut aller au roi, qui, voyant que c'etoit un 
 bon compagnon, lui donna sa grJce.' — Tallemant des RSaux. 
 
 ^ Lamartine. 
 
112 PARIS 
 
 Near this, in the Rue des Poulies, the first restaurant 
 was opened in 1785, Boulanger, the master, taking as his 
 sign, 'Venite ad me omnes qui stomacho laboratis, at ego 
 vos restauraho ' — whence the name which has ever remained 
 to his imitators.^ 
 
 The Rue de I'Arbre Sec led into the Rue des Fosses 
 S. Germain I'Auxerrois, which took again, in its later 
 existence, a name it had borne in 886. Here, when the 
 street was called Rue de la Charpenterie, Jacques de Bethizy, 
 Advocate of the Parliament of Paris, built an hotel in 1416. 
 The prolongation of the street was called Rue de Ponthieu, 
 from the Hotel de Ponthieu, in which (and not, as some- 
 times stated, in the destroyed Rue de Bethizy) Admiral 
 Coligny was murdered. 
 
 ' Le due de Guise, suivi de satellites armes, se rendit a la hate a\i 
 logis de Tamiral Coligny. Ayant fait forcer la porte exterieure, les 
 Suisses de la gard? navarraise voulurent s'opposer a leur projet, iiiais 
 leur capitaine et quelques hommes furent tues sur la place. Le due de 
 Guise, qui avait attendu dans la cour Tissue de la premiere entreprise, 
 ordonna k quelques-uns de ses soldats de nlonter k la chambre de 
 Coligny, dont la porte ^tait confiee a un valet allemand. Ce 
 dernier, s'^tant oppose i. ce qii'on entrat chez son maltre, re9ut 
 un coup de feu k la tete. Bien qu'au premier bruit qui se mani- 
 festa k la porte exterieure, I'amiral se fut mis k la fenetre 
 pour s'assurer de la cause du tumulte, et qu'il lui efit ete facile de 
 voir que c'^tait a lui que I'on en voulait, il ne fit aucune tentative pour 
 se sauver ; au contraire, il se recoucha en robe de chambre, et fit m^me 
 semblant de domiir, quand trois hommes armes entrferent dans son 
 appartement. L'un de ces trois assassins, qui etait gentilhomme, le 
 saisit par le bras en s'ecriant : " Monsieur I amiral, monsieur j vous 
 dormez trop I " Coligny fit semblant de sortir du premier sommeil, et 
 se tournant vers celui qui lui parlait, il en rejut un coup d'ep^e dans le 
 cot^ gauche et un coup de poignard dans le c&ti droit. On ordonna 
 ensuite aux Suisses de le jeter par la fenetre. Cependant Coligny 
 n'avait pas encore rendu Fame, et il fit une telle resistance quand on 
 
 ' Foumier, Paris dhnoU. 
 
HALLE AU BLt 113 
 
 on voulut s'emparer de lui, que quatre Suisses n'en purent venir i 
 bout, malgr^ les coups de hallebarde qu'ils lui donnJrent sur I'os de la 
 jambe. lis firent un second effort pour 'executer I'ordre qu'ils avaient 
 re9u, et le saisirent tous les quatre par le corps ; mais, voyant que les 
 soldats franjais s'occupaient k piller sa cassette, ils laiss^rent tomber le 
 corps de Coligny pour se livrer egalement au pillage. Tout i coup on 
 entendit du fond de la cour une voix s'ecrier : " L'amiral est-il mort? 
 jetez-le par la fenetre ! " ' Un soldat fran9ais s'approchant alors de 
 Coligny, qui, bien que renverse i terre, opposait encore une vigoureuse 
 resistance, lui posa le canon de son arquebuse sur la bouche et le tua. 
 Cependant il faisait encore quelques mouveinents quand on le jeta par 
 la fenetre. Aprfe cette execution, on massacra environ une quarantaine 
 de personnes qui se trouvaient dans la maison, et qui, pour la plupart, 
 etaient attachces au service de Coligny. '— Letter of a German priest, 
 written on the day after the massacre, to Lambert Gruter, Bishop of 
 Nenstadt. 
 
 (The Hotel de Ponthieu, after belonging to the family 
 of Rohan-Montbazon, became, as Hotel de Lisieux, a 
 public-house, where the great comedienne, Sophie Arnauld, 
 the daughter of the publican, was born, in the very room in 
 which the admiral was murdered. All is destroyed now.) 
 
 Left of Rue S. Honors, the Rue Sauval leads to the 
 Halle au Ble, a circular edifice on a very historic site. 
 
 ' Le d6me de la Halle-au-Ble est une casquette de jockey anglais 
 sur une grande echelle, ' — Victor Hui^o, 
 
 Here stood the H6tel de Nesle, built in the XIII. c, by 
 Queen Blanche of Castille, who received there the homage 
 of Thibault, the poet-king of Navarre, when he sang — 
 
 ' Amours me fait comencier 
 Une chanson nouv^le ; 
 Et me vuet enseignier 
 A amer la plus belle 
 Qui soit el mont vivant. 
 
 Hence, also, when wearied of the importunity of his love, 
 
 I 
 
114 PARIS 
 
 Queen Blanche sent Thibault to fight in the Holy Land, 
 where he hoped to conquer the affections of the queen by 
 his deeds of valour. Here the beautiful queen died (1253) 
 on a bed of straw, from necessity's sake, and the hotel, after 
 passing through a number of royal hands, was given by 
 Charles "VI. to his brother, the Duke of Orleans — ' afin de 
 le loger commod^ment prfes du Louvre, et dans un lieu qui 
 rdpondit k sa quality.' Hence, as the guilty paramour of 
 his sister-in-law, Isabeau de Bavi^re, the Duke went to his 
 murder in the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois. 
 
 It was Catherine de Medicis who pulled down the Hotel 
 de Nesle, and who, weary of the Tuileries as soon as she 
 had completed its central fagade, employed BuUant to build 
 a more splendid palace on this site, called, from its later 
 proprietors, Hotel de Soissons. The cruel queen had her 
 observatory here, and when a light was seen passing there 
 at night, the pas'sers-by used to say, ' The queen-mother is 
 consulting the stars ; it is an evil omen ! ' After the death 
 of Catherine de Medicis, the hotel belonged to Catherine of 
 Navarre, sister of Henri IV., then to Olympia Mancini, 
 Comtesse de Soissons (mother of Prince Eugfene, born here 
 Oct. 18, 1660), who fled from France to escape being tried 
 for poisoning her husband, after the exposure of Mme de 
 Brinvilliers and the institution of the court of inquiry called 
 'la Chambre des Poisons.' Even of the second palace 
 nothing remains to this day except a fluted colunm, resting 
 on a fountain, adorned with the arms of Paris, and attached 
 to the exterior of the Halle. This column, erected by 
 BuUant in 1572, is said to have been used for the observa- 
 tions of Catherine's astrologer ; it now bears a sundial, the 
 work of Pingr^, canon of S. Genevifeve.. The Revolution 
 
HOTEL DE LA TrAmOUILLE 115; 
 
 has destroyed the monograms, crescents, fleurs-de-lis, &c., 
 which once adorned it. Such was the fame of the Hotel dq 
 Soissons, that Piganiol de la Force declares that, except the 
 Louvre, no dwelling-house was more noble and illustrious, 
 while to give its history, or rather that of the Hotels de 
 Nesle, de Bahaigue, d'Orl^ans, de la Reine-Mere, and des 
 Princes, as it was successively called, it would be necessary 
 to touch on the great events of every reign during its long 
 existence. 
 
 Houses now cover the gardens of the Hotel de Soissons, 
 which, under the Regency, were covered by the wooden 
 booths used in the stock -jobbing of Law and his Mississippi 
 scheme. 
 
 On the left of the Rue S. Honord is the litde Hue des 
 Frouvaires (Prouaires, Pretres), where Alphonso of Por- 
 tugal was lodged in the time of Louis XL, and for his 
 amusement taken to 'hear a theological discussion at the' 
 University which lasted five hours ! ' Voilk un monarque 
 honorablement logi et bien amus^,' says S. Foix. 
 
 If we continue the Rue de Rivoli, the Rue des Bour- 
 donnais (named from Adam and Guillaume Bourdon) 
 opens on the left ; now of no interest, but once of great 
 importance as containing the glorious Hotel de la Tr^mouille, 
 built 1490, rivaling the noblest buildings of the age in 
 France, but wantonly destroyed in 1840. The hotel long 
 belonged to the family of Bellifevre, to which Mme de 
 S^vign^ was related. ' lis n'ont pas voulu la vendre,' she 
 wrote, ' parce que c'est la maison paternelle, et que les 
 souliers du vieux chanceher en ont touchy le pavd' 
 
 ' L'architecture de cet h6tel etait une des plus gracieuses crea- 
 tions de la fin du xv° siecle. La lourelle de gauche, le grancj 
 
 1 2 
 
Ii6 PARIS 
 
 escalier, les portiques avec leur premier ^tage, n'avaient subi que de 
 l^geres mutilations. Quant k la fajade du logis sur la cour, elle avait 
 €ii fort gSt^e, mais tous les elements de sa decoration subsistaient par 
 parties sous les platrages modernes. Du c6t^ du jardin, la fa9ade etait 
 tr^s-slmple. Ce qu'on ne pouvait trop admirer dans cette chamiante 
 architecture, c'^tait le goiit delicat qu'y avait d^ploy^ I'architecte. 
 L'assemblage des parties lisses et des parties d^corees ^tait des plus 
 heureux.' — Viollet-U-Duc, vi. 384. 
 
 We are close to the Halles Centrales (which may be 
 reached directly from the Halle au BI16), occupying the 
 district formerly called Champeaux, which, from time im- 
 memorial, was at once a centre for provisions and a place of 
 sepulture. The great roads leading to Roman towns were 
 always bordered by tombs, and the highways leading to the 
 Roman Lutece, on the island in the Seine, were no excep- 
 tion to the rule. Especially popular as a place of sepulture 
 was the road across the marshes, afterwards known as ' grant 
 chauss6e Monsieur Saint Denys.' A chapel dedicated here 
 to S. Michael at a very early date was the precursor of a 
 church dedicated to the Holy Innocents, built under Louis 
 le Gros, whose favourite oath was ' par les saints de Beth- 
 leem.' The whole surrounding district had by this time 
 become a cemetery, and the ancient oratory was exclusively 
 used for prayers for the dead. Philip Augustus surrounded 
 the cemetery with walls, and it became, as the Cimetifere S. 
 Jean or Cimetifere Vert, the favourite burial-place of the 
 middle classes.' Of great extent, it was surrounded by 
 cloisters, decorated with frescoes of the Dance of Death — 
 La Danse Maccabre — of great local celebrity, and contained 
 a very fine old lanterne des marts and several hermitages, 
 
 * Corrozet preserves this epitaph : * Cy-gist Jollande Bailli, qui tr^passa Tan 
 1518, le 88" an de son Sge, le 42*' de son veuvage, laquelle a vu, devant son tr^paS' 
 deux-cents qiiatre-vlngt-quinze enfans issus d'elle.' 
 
LES HALLE S CENTRALES ii; 
 
 some of which were inhabited from motives of devotion, but 
 one at least as an enforced penance, by Ren^e de Vendome 
 — 'la recluse de S. Innocent' — shut up here for life as a 
 punishment for adultery. Louis XI. erected a monument 
 in the church, with a statue, to another hermit of the 
 cemetery, the nun Alix la Bourgotte. The church, and the 
 cemetery with its cloisters, were closed m 1786. Their site 
 is now covered by the vast buildings of the modern Halles, 
 replacing the famous Marchd aux Innocents, which had its 
 origin in booths erected in the time of Philippe le 
 Hardi, when the cloisters of the cemetery were a fashion- 
 able walk. The huge existing market, consisting of six 
 pavilions separated by three streets, only dates from 1858. 
 The best time for visiting it and seeing the crowds which 
 frequent it, is between 6 and 8 a.m. 
 
 ' Une lueur claire annon9ait le jour. La grande voix des Halles 
 grondait plus haut ; par instants, des volees de cloche, dans un pavilion 
 eloigne, coupaient cette clameur roulant et montant, lis entr^rent sous 
 une de ces rues couvertes, entre le pavilion de la mar^e et le pavilion 
 de la volaille. Florent levait les yeux, regardait la haute voflte, dont 
 les boiseries interieures luisaient, entre les dentelles noires des char- 
 pentes de fonte. Quand il deboucha dans la grande rue du milieu, il 
 songea a quelque ville etrange, avec ses quartiers distincts, ses fau- 
 bourgs, ses villages, ses promenades et ses routes, ses places et ses 
 carrefours, mise tout enti^re sous un hangar, un jour de pluie, par 
 quelque caprice gigantesque. L'ombre, sommeillant dans les creux 
 des toitures, multipliait la forSt des piliers, elargissait a I'infini les 
 nervures d^licates, les galeries decoupees, les persiennes transparentes ; 
 et c'etait, au-dessus de la ville, jusqu'au fond des tenfebres, toute une 
 vegetation, toute une floraison, monstrueux epanouissement de metal, 
 dont les tiges qui montaient en fusee, les branches qui se tordaient et 
 se nouaient, couvraient un monde avec les l^g^retes de feuillage d'une 
 futaie seculaire. Des quartiers dormaient encore, clos de leurs grilles. 
 Les pavilions du beurre et de la volaille alignaient leurs petites bouti- 
 ques treillagees, allongeaient leurs ruelles desertes sous les files des bees 
 
Il8 PARIS 
 
 de gaz. Le pavilion de la maree venait d'6tre ouvert ; des femmes 
 traversaient les rangees de pierres blanches, tach^es de I'ombre des 
 paniers et des linges oubli&. Aux gxos l(^gumes, aux fleurs et aux 
 fruits, le vacarme allait grandissant. De proche en proche, le r^veil 
 gagnait la ville, du quartier populeux oi les choux s'entassent d^s 
 quatre heures du matin, au quartier paresseux et riche qui n'accroche 
 des poulardes et des faisans a ses maisons que vers les huit heures. 
 
 ' Mais, dans les grandes rues ouvertes, la vie affluait. Le long des 
 trottoirs, aux deux bords, des maraichers etaient encore Ik, de petits 
 cultivateurs, venus des environs de Paris, etaient sur des paniers leur 
 recolte de la veille au soir, bottes de legumes, poign^es de fruits. Au 
 milieu du va-et-vient incessant de la foule, des voitures entraient sous 
 les vofltes, en ralentissant le trot sonnant de leurs chevaux. Deux de 
 ces voitures, laissees en travers, barraient la rue. Florent, pour passer, 
 dut s'appuyer centre un des sacs grisatres, pareils a des sacs de 
 charboh, et dont I'enorme charge faisait plier les essieux ; les sacs, 
 mouilles, avaient une odeur fraJche d'algues marines ; un d'eux, creve 
 par un bout, laissait couler un tas noir de grosses moules. A tous les 
 pas, maintenant, ils devaient s'arreter. La maree arrivait, les camions 
 se succ^daient, charriant les hautes cages de bois pleines de bourriches, 
 que les chemins de fer apportent toutes charg&s de I'Ocean. Et, pour 
 se garer des camions de la maree de plus en plus presses et inquietants, 
 ils se jetaient sous les roues des camions de beurre, des osufs et des 
 fromages, de grands chariots jaunes, a quatre chevaux, \ lanternes 
 de couleur ; des forts enlevaient les caisses d'oeufs, les paniers de 
 fromage et de beurre, qu'ils portaient dans le pavilion de la cri(^e, ou 
 les employ& en casquette ^crivaient sur les calepins, i la lueur du gaz. 
 Claude etait ravi de ce tumulte ; 11 s'oubliait i un effet de lumiere, & 
 un groupe de blouses, au dechargement d'une voiture. Enfin, ils se 
 degagerent. Comme ils longeaient toujours la grande rue, il march- 
 ferent dans une odeur exquise qui trainait autour d'eux et semblait les 
 suivre. lis etaient au milieu du march^ des fleurs coupees. Sur le 
 carreau, k droite et i gauche, des femmes assises avaient devant elles 
 des corbeilles carries, pleines de bottes de roses, de violettes, de 
 dahlias, de marguerites. Les bottes s'assombrissaient, pareilles i des 
 taches de sang, palissaient doucement avec des gris argentes d'une 
 grande delicatesse. Pr^s d'une corbeille, une bougie allum^e mettait 
 U, sur tout le noir d'alentour, une chanson aigue de couleur, les 
 panachures vives des marguerites, le rouge saignant des dahlias, le 
 bleuissement des violettes, les chairs vivantes des roses. Et rien n'etait 
 plus doux ni plus printanier que les tendresses de ce parfum rencontrdes 
 
FONTAINE DES INNOCENTS 
 
 119 
 
 sur un trottoir, au sortir des souffles Rpres de la mar^e et de la seti- 
 teur pestilentielle des beurres et des fromages.' — Zola, ' Le Ventre de, 
 Paris, ' 
 
 ' Les Piliers des Halles ' were formerly very picturesque, 
 but nothing now remains of the past, except the Fontaine 
 
 ^%F^ 
 
 THE FONTAINE DES INNOCENTS 
 
 des Innocents, which now stands in a shady square at the 
 south-east corner of the Halles. Originally dating from 
 the XIII. c, it was reconstructed in 1550 after a plan 
 of JPierre Lescot, and decorated with sculpture by Jean 
 Goujon. But it was then attached to the church wall, 
 which gave it quite a different appearance. John Evelyn 
 
120 PARIS 
 
 says, 'Joyning to this church is a com'on fountaine, with 
 good relievo's on it.' Since its removal to its present site, 
 its aspect has been further altered by the addition of a 
 cupola and disproportionate base : at the same time new 
 nymphs by Pajou were added to those of Jean Goujon. 
 Stripped of its original interest, the fountain is still a chef- 
 d'auvre of the French renaissance of the XVI. c, and its 
 earlier and still existing decorations, by Jean Goujon, are of 
 the greatest beauty. 
 
 It was to the Halles that Jacques d'Armagnac, Due de 
 Nemours, after having been confined in an iron cage, 
 was brought from the Bastille to be beheaded, August 4, 
 1477, by order of Louis XI., and there that his children, 
 dressed in white, were forced to stand beneath the' scaffold, 
 that their robes might be saturated with their father's 
 blood. 
 
 Behind the Halles, which are ever filled with a roar of 
 voices like a storm at sea, rises the huge mass of the great 
 church of S, Eustache, the most complete specimen of 
 renaissance architecture in Paris, a gothic five-sided church 
 in essentials, but classical in all its details, and possessing a 
 certain quaint, surprising, and imposing grandeur of its own, 
 though brimming with faults from an architectural point of 
 view. Henri Martin, who calls it ' the poetical church of 
 S. Eustache,' considers it the last breath of the religious 
 architecture of the Middle Ages. Begun in 1532, it was 
 completed as we now see it (except the principal portal- 
 altered since, and still incomplete), by the architect David, 
 in 1642. 
 
 ' La renaissance avait effacee les derni^res traces du vieil art 
 national, , . , On voulait appliquer les fornries de rarchitectuie 
 
5. BUST AC HE 
 
 121 
 
 romaine antique, que I'on connaissait raal, au systeme de construction 
 des eglises ogivales, que Ton meprisait sans les cpmprendre. C'est sous 
 cette inspiration ind&ise que fut commenc^e et achevee la grande 
 eglise de Saint-Eustache, monument mal con9u, nial construit, amas 
 confus de debris empruntes de tous cot^s, sans liaison et sans harmonie ; 
 sorte de squelette gothique revetu de haillons remains cousus ensemble 
 comme les pieces d'un habit d'arlequin.' — Viollet-le-Duc, i. 240. 
 
 S. EUSTACHE 
 
 The richly- decorated renaissance portals are surmounted 
 by gothic rose-windows, divided by balustrades, and, at the 
 summit of the south gable, a stag's head with a crucifix between 
 its horns, in memory of the miraculous animal by which the 
 saint was converted when hunting. Classical pilasters divide 
 the windows, and decorate the flying buttresses, and a very 
 graceful classical campanile of the XVII. c. surmounts the 
 Lady Chapel. 
 
 With all its faults, the vast and lofty interior will prob- 
 
122 PARIS 
 
 ably strike the ordinary visitor with admiration for its 
 stately magnificence.' He may notice : — 
 
 ifh Chapel. Gourlier : Marriage of the Virgin — a relief. 
 <,th Chapel. Magimel : Ecce Homo — a relief. 
 Transepts. Statues by Debay ; frescoes by Signal. 
 
 The windows of the choir and apse areof 1631, and bear, constantly 
 repeated, the name of their artist, Soulignac, unknown elsewhere, 
 
 4iA Chapel of Choir. Restored frescoes of XVII. c. 
 
 ?)th ( Terminal) Chapel. The statue of the Virgin, by Pigalle, 
 sculptured for the dome of the Invalides. 
 
 <jth Chapel. The tomb of Jean Baptist Colbert, 1683, the famous 
 minister. He is represented kneeling on a sarcophagus, at the 
 base of which are figures of Religion and Abundance, 
 
 ' On voit dans la paroisse de S. Eustache la statue naturelle de M, 
 Colbert, grand -tr^sorier de I'ordre du Saint-Esprit, avec le manteau et 
 collier des chevaliers ; il n'est personne qui puisse ne le pas prendre 
 pour un chevalier, ' — S. Simon. .. 
 
 ' Mazarin faisait au roi un legs precieux : " Sire," lui avait-il dit en 
 luipr&entantun simple commis des finances, " je vous dois tout ; mais 
 je crois m'acquitter envers Votre Majeste en lui donnant Colbert." ' — 
 Touchard-Lafosse, 'Hist, de Paris.' 
 
 ' Le peuple fut ingrat comme I'avait ^t^ le roi. II fallait faire con- 
 duire de nuit le corps de Colbert de son hdtel de la Rue Neuve des 
 Petits-Champs k I'eglise Saint- Eustache, de peur que le convoi ne fut 
 insult^ par les gens des halles, Le peuple de Paris ne voyait guere 
 dans Colbert que I'auteur des taxes onereuses et vexatoires etablies 
 depuis la guerre de Hollande, et le peuple de France, en general, 
 habitu^ par Colbert lui-m^me a reporter au roi tout ce que le ministre 
 avait sugg^re de bon et de grand, imputa au roi la gloire, au contr81eur- 
 general des finances les misferes que coiitait cette gloire. Le peuple ne 
 pouvait soupfonner les luttes interieures du conseil, et la partie eclair^e 
 de la bourgeoisie qui approchait Colbert 4tait seule k portee de I'ap- 
 precier. Il faut bien le reconnaltre, il n'y a que deux juges 6quitables 
 pour les grands horames : Dieu et la post^rit^. 
 
 'Avec Colbert finit la race des grands ministres.' — Martin, 'Hist, de 
 I^rance.'' 
 
 ^ It is the largest church in Paris except Notre Dame, being 318 feet long, and 
 132 feet wide at the transept. 
 
S. EUSTACHE 123 
 
 N. Transept. On the benitier, Pope TelesiphoruS (139, who in- 
 stituted Holy Water) blessing the water. 
 Left of the Organ. Medallion monument of General Francois de 
 Chevert, 1760, with an epitaph by Diderot, telling how 'sans 
 ayeux, sans fortune, et sans appui, il s'eleva malgr^ I'envie, 
 h. la force de merite.' 
 The magnificent sculptures which Jacques Sarrazin executed for the 
 high-altar and apse, all perished in the Revolution. The S. Louis, 
 Virgin, and infant Saviour were portraits of Louis XIIL, Anne of 
 Austria, and Louis XIV. ! The ' banc d'oeuvre ' was executed by 
 Lcpautre from designs of Cartaud for the Regent Due d'Orl^ans, at a 
 cost of 20,000 livres. All memorials are destroyed of Admiral de 
 Tourville ; the Due de la Feuillade ; d'Armenonville, keeper of the seals ; 
 Marin de la Chanibre, physician of Louis XIV. ; Voiture, Vaugelas, 
 Fureti^re, Benserade, La Mothe le Vayer, and the painter Charles de 
 la Fosse, buried in this church. Besides the tomb of Colbert, only the 
 monument of Chevert (which was taken to the Musee des Monuments 
 Franfais) has been preserved. 
 
 ' It is impossible to point to a single detail which is not elegant, or, 
 to anything offensively inappropriate. Yet the eye is everywhere 
 offended by the attenuation of classical details, and the stilting that 
 becomes necessary from , the employment of the flatter circular arch in- 
 stead of the taller pointed one. The hollow lines of the corinthian 
 capitals are also very ill-adapted to receive the impost of an arch ; and 
 when the shaft is placed on a base taller than itself, and drawn out, as 
 is too often the case here, the eye is everywhere shocked, the great 
 difference being, that the gothic shaft was in almost all instances 
 employed only to indicate and suggest the construction, and might 
 therefore be 100 diameters in height without appearing weak or inap- 
 propriate. ' — Fergusson. 
 
 It was in this church that 720 wreaths of roses were dis- 
 tributed to mark the Burgundians .during' the terrible 
 massacre of the followers of Armagnac in 141 8. Here in 
 the beginning of the XVI. c, whilst the rivalry between 
 Church and theatre was at its height — 
 
 ' Le cure de Saint-Eustache etait en chaire et faisait de son mieux 
 pour ^difier ses auditeurs, lorsque Jean du Pontalais vint par hasard h. 
 passer devant son eglise. Le bruit du tambourin avec lequel du Pont- 
 
124 PARIS 
 
 alais appelait le peuple, forgait le pr^dicateur k hausser la voix et brou- 
 illait le fil de ses idees. Plus le tambourin retentissait, plus le cure 
 luttait de poumons. Et cette iutte commeu5ait a egayer I'auditoiie. 
 Enfin, harasse, le pr^dicateur ordonne qu'on aille imposer silence i ce 
 baladin. Quelques fiddles defilent . . ■ et ne reviennent point ! lis 
 sont all& grossir I'auditoire du tapageur, au lieu de faire cesser le 
 tapage. Le bruit du tambour redouble. Enfin le cure, perdant patience, 
 descend de la chaire, sort de I'eglise, et va droit i du Ponialais. 
 " Eh !".s'^crie du Pontalais, " qui vous a fait si hardi de prgcher pen- 
 dant que je joue du tambourin ? " Alors le prteheur, plus fUche quedevant, 
 prit le couteau de son Famulus (bedeau) qui ^tait aupr^s de lui et fit 
 una grande balafre k ce tambourin avec le couteau. Puis il s'en retour- 
 nait k I'eglise pour achever son sermon. Pontalais prend son tambour, 
 et court apr^s le prScheur, et s'en va le coiffer comme d'un chapeau 
 d'Albanais, le lui affublant du c6t^ qu'il etait rompu. Et alors le prg- 
 cheur tout en I'^tat qu'il ^tait voulait remonter en chaire pour remon- 
 trer I'injure qui lui avait ^t^ faite, et comme la parole de Dieu etait 
 vilipend^e. Mais le monde riait si fort en lui voyant ce tambourin 
 sur la tete, qu'il ne put ce jour-lk avoir audience et fut contraint de se 
 retirer et de s'en taire, car il lui fut remontr^ que ce n'^tait pas le fait 
 d'un sage homme de se prendre 'k un fol.' — Desckanel, 'La vie des 
 comidiens. ' 
 
 S. Eustache has always been the special church of the 
 Halles, and it was here, in 1701, that the Dames de la 
 Halle, with whom he was very popular, caused a special 
 Te Deum to be sung for the recovery from dangerous illness 
 of Monseigneur, son of Louis XIV. 
 
 ' La Societe Revolutionnaire si^gait k Saint-Eustache, Elle ^tait 
 composee de femmes perdues, aventuri^res de leur sexe, recrutees 
 dans le vice, ou dans les reduits de la misere, ou dans 
 les cabanons de la demence. Le scandale de leurs seances, le 
 tumulte de leurs motions, la bizarrerie de leur Eloquence, I'audace de 
 leurs petitions importunaient le comit^ de salut public. Ces femmes 
 venaient dieter les lois sous pretexte de donner des conseils h. la Con- 
 vention. ' — Lamartine, ' Hist, des Girondins, ' 
 
 This church also was especially connected with the 
 FUes de la Raison. 
 
HOTEL DU ROYAUmONT 125 
 
 ' S, Eustache offrit le spectacle d'un grand cabaret. L'int^rieur du 
 choeur repr^sentoit un paysage d^core de chaumi^res et de bouquets 
 d'arbres. On distinguoit dans le lointain des bosquets mysterieux ; 
 il y avoit effectivement de petits sentiers pratiques dans les escarpemens 
 figures de grandes masses de rochers. Les precipices de sapin n'^toient 
 point inaccessibles ; des troupeaux de fiUes qui suivoient effrontement 
 i la file, couroient apr^s les hommes, et I'on entendoit le continual 
 craquement des planches sous leurs pas precipites. 
 
 ' Autour du choeur, Ton avoit dresse des tables surchargees de 
 bouteilles, de saucissons, d'andouilles, de pates et d'autres viandes. 
 Sur les autels des chapelles laterales, on sacrifioit tout i la fois a la 
 luxure, a la gourmandise ; et I'on vit sur les pierres consacrees, les 
 traces hideuses de I'intemp^rance. 
 
 ' Les convives affluoient par toutes les portes ; quiconque se pr&en- 
 toit prenoit part au festin : les enfants de sept a huit ans, tant fiUes 
 que gargons, mettoient la main au plat en signe de liberte, ils bu- 
 voient i nieme les bouteilles ; et leur prompte ivresse excltoit le rire 
 des ^tres vils qui le partageoient. ' — Mercier, ' Le nouveau Paris. ' 
 
 The jRue dujour, just behind the west end of S. Eustache, 
 was formerly Rue du S^jour, from a residence of Charles V. 
 The Hotel du Royaumont (No. 4) was built here in 1613, 
 by the Abb^ du Royaumont, and afterwards became the 
 property of the Comte de Montmorency-Boutteville, the 
 famous duellist. Its old portal remains. 
 
 (The Rue du Jour falls into the Rue Montmartre, which 
 contained the Chapelle S. Joseph, built by the Chancellor 
 Siguier, and in which Molifere and La Fontaine were buried : 
 it was destroyed in the Revolution. 
 
 Opening from the Rue Montmartre, on the left, is 
 (much curtailed by modern improvements) the Rue de la 
 Jussienne, a name commemorating the popular pronun- 
 ciation of the church of S. Marie I'Egyptienne, which dated 
 from the XIV. c, and stood at the angle of the Rue 
 Montmartre. 
 
126 PARIS 
 
 ' Des vitraux du temps de Frangois I. repr&entaient la vie de la 
 sainte patronne, et des inscriptions d'une naivete singulitre en expli- 
 quaient les circonstances, mSme celles que la sainte crut devoir expier 
 par une longue penitence. ' — De Guilhermy, 
 
 It was in going to his devotions at this church that 
 Henri III. drew from under the little dogs, which he carried 
 slung in a basket round his neck, and gave to Chancellor 
 Chiverny the edict which took away from the bour- 
 geois of Paris the rights of nobility granted them by 
 Charles V. 
 
 No. z, Rue de la Jussienne, belonged to the Hotel of 
 Mme du Barry, and the financier Peruchet had his bureau 
 there in the time of Louis XV. It has the handsome 
 decorations of heads and garlands of the time of Louis XV. 
 The next street on the left of the Rue Montmartre was 
 the Rue des Vieux Augustins, where, at No. 17, Charlotte 
 Corday lodged in 1793, in the Hotel de la Providence.) 
 
 (The modern Rue de Turbigo runs north-east from S. 
 Eustache to the Place de la Rdpublique on the Boulevards, 
 crossing the site of the fine hotel of the Marquis de I'Hospital. 
 In the great modern cross street, called Rue Etienne Marcel, 
 a grand and picturesque old tower is to be seen, in a court 
 on the right side, sadly hemmed in by modern houses. This 
 is all that remains of the Hdtel de Bourgogne, sometimes 
 called Hotel d'Artois, having been built— in the 'quartier 
 Mauconseil ' — by the Comte d'Artois in the XIII. c. 
 Under Charles VI. the hotel was often the residence of 
 Jean sans Peur, Duke of Burgundy. It was bought in 
 1548 by the Confrdrie de la Passion, that they might re-' 
 present their mysteries there. After a few years they let 
 it to ' les Enfants Sans Souci,' a society of amateur actors 
 
HOTEL DU BOURGOGNE 127 
 
 of good family ; from them it passed to more regular 
 actors, known as ' Com^diens de I'Hotel de Bourgogne.' 
 
 ' M^lite,' the first play of Corneille, was represented at 
 the Hotel de Bourgogne in 1625 ; his other plays were acted 
 there as they appeared, and it was here that Christina 
 of Sweden shocked Anne of Austria by sitting at the per- 
 formance ' dans una position si ind^cente, qu'elle avait les 
 pieds plus hauts que la t^te.' There was a perj)etual rivalry 
 between this theatre and that of Petit-Bourbon, where the 
 plays acted were those of Molifere, who ridiculed the actors 
 of the Hotel de Bourgogne in his 'Pr^cieuses ridicules.' 
 But the ' Alexandre ' of Racine drew back the wavering 
 admirers of the older theatre. After its appearance at the 
 Hotel de Bourgogne, S. Evremond wrdte, ' que la vieillesse 
 de Corneille ne I'alarmait plus, et qu'il n'appr^hendait plus 
 tant de voir finir la tragddie aprfes lui,' though when 
 'Andromache' and 'Bajazet' had been represented here 
 Mme de S^vignd wrote, ' Racine fait des comddies pour 
 la Champmesld ' ; ce n'est pas pour les sifecles ^ venir. Vive 
 done notre vieil ami Corneille ! ' In 1680 the 'Com^diens 
 italiens ' took the theatre of the Hotel de Bourgogne, where 
 they obtained a great success for seventeen years, but were 
 suppressed in May, 1697, for having produced a piece called 
 ' La fausse Prude,' in which Mme de Maintenon fancied 
 herself represented, and thus drew upon herself a qualifica- 
 tion not originally intended for her. The Comddiens italiens 
 were restored by the Regent d'Orl^ans, and obtained a great 
 celebrity through the performance of Riccoboni and Benozzi, 
 and the plays of Marivaux and Delisle. In 1723, the actors 
 of the Hotel de Bourgogne were called ' Com^diens ordiuaires 
 
 * ' La plus miraculeusement bonne comedienne. 
 
128 
 
 PARIS 
 
 du Roi,' and their title was inscribed over the gate of the 
 hotel. The theatre was closed and pulled down in 1783, 
 but it may be regarded as having been the cradle of the 
 Com^die Frangaise. 
 
 TOWER OF THE h6tEL DE BOURGOGNE 
 
 Nothing now remains of the ancient buildings of the 
 hotel, except the great square tower, built by Jean sans 
 Peur, and containing a winding staircase and vaulted gothic 
 hall. This was probably the chamber which the Duke 
 (who by no means deserved his surname) built after the 
 
HOTEL DE BOURGOGNE 129 
 
 murder of the Duke of Orleans, ' toute de pierre de taille, 
 pour sa suretd, la plus forte qu'il put, et terminee de machi- 
 coulis, oil toutes las nuits il couchoit.' 
 
 ' Les degr& de I'escalier tournent autour d'une colonne, qui se 
 termine par un chapiteau tr^s-simple ; mais ce chapiteau sert de support 
 k une caisse ronde en pierre, cercl^e de trois anneaux doubles, d'oii 
 s'elancent les tiges vigoureuses d'un ch^ne, dont les branches d&rivent 
 quatre trav^es d'ogives, et dont le feuillage abondant tapisse la voflte 
 tout entitle. Nous ne connaissons rien de semblable dans les monu- 
 ments du moyen Sge i Paris ; c'est un syst^me d'omementation non 
 moins remarquable par sa raret^ que par son 61^gance. Dans le 
 tympan ogival d'une des bales ext^rieures, deux rabots et un fil k plomb 
 sont sculptes au milieu de fleurons gothiques. On salt que le due Jean 
 sans Peur prit les rabots pour emblemes, par opposition aux batons 
 noueux qu'avait choisis le due d'Orl^ans.' — De Cuilhermy.) 
 
 Should we return to the Rue S. Honors we should now 
 reach the spot where Henri IV. was assassinated (beyond 
 the entrance of the Rue de la Tonnellerie), May 14, 16 10, 
 on his way to see Sully at the Arsenal. The Rue S. Honord 
 at that time ceased here and became exceedingly narrow, 
 under the name of Rue de la Ferronnerie. The house in 
 front of which the murder took place (No. 6) was marked 
 by a Maltese cross painted red, and was called Maison de 
 la Croix rouge. It was a false tradition which represented 
 the event as having occurred opposite a house (now de- 
 stroyed — No. 3 Rue S. Honord) upon which a notary 
 named Portrain, to honour the king's memory, placed his 
 bust with an inscription, now in the Carnavalet Museum. 
 
 ' Fran9ois Ravaillac etalt une espice de visionnaire d'une humeur 
 sombre et bizarre, d'une physionomie sinistre ; il avait ^t^ praticien, 
 novice dans le couvent des feuillants i Paris, puis maitre d'ecole a- 
 AngoulSme, sa ville natale. II avait toujours recherche la societe 
 des moines et des pretres les plus bigots et les plus violents. . . . 
 II flotta longtemps avant de se fixer dans I'horrible pensee qui 
 
 K 
 
130 PARIS 
 
 I'obs^dait. II etait venu d'Angouleme k Paris au niois du Janvier 
 dernier, afin de parler au roi. II avail eu, disait-il, des revflations du 
 ciel touchant les interSts de la religion ; il voulait persuader au roi de 
 r^voquer I'^dit de Nantes : sa mauvaise mine le fit partout repousser, 
 et il repartit sans avoir pu aborder le roi. II revint a Paris h. la fin 
 d'avril. II se tenait, depuis le matin, prfes de la porte du Louvre, 
 quand il vit sortir le carrosse du roi. II le suivit. En entrant de la 
 rue Saint-Honore dans la rue de la Ferronnerie, qui etait alors tris- 
 etroite, le carrosse rencontra deux charrettes qui I'oblig^rent k raser les 
 boutiques adossees au mur du cimetiere des Innocents. La petite suite 
 du roi fut s^paree de lui par cet incident. Pendant qu'on faisait reculer 
 les charrettes, Franyois Ravaillac se glissa entre les boutiques et le 
 carrosse, qui etait tout ouvert, et, voyant le roi k la portiere, tout pies 
 de lui, il mit un pied sur une borne, I'autre sur une des roues, et lanya 
 un coup de couteau a Henri entre les cQtes. Le roi leva le bras en 
 s'ecriant : "Je suis blesse ! " Au mSme instant un second coup lui 
 perfa le cceur. Henri ne profera plus une parole et ne donna plus 
 signe de vie. 
 
 ' Ravaillac etait reste immobile, sans chercher k s'enfuir, sans jeter 
 son couteau. Les seigneurs qui accompagnaient le roi emp&herent 
 qu'on ne massacrSt I'assassin sur la place, le firent arreter et mettre en 
 lieu de sfirete ; puis, fermant les portieres du carrosse, ils cri^rent au 
 peuple que le roi n'^tait que blesse, et reprirent le chemin du Louvre. 
 
 ' lis n'y ramenaient qu'un cadavre ! '— Henri Martin, ' Hist, de 
 France,^ x. 568, 
 
 Ancient streets in this district which have vanished of 
 late years under modern improvements, are the Rue de la 
 Tixeranderie, the Rue des Mauvais Gargons, and the Rue 
 S. Faron (where the abbots of S. Faron had their hotel), with 
 the Place Baudoyer, a name which recalled the revolt of the 
 Bagaudes against the Roman dominion, and which was cor- 
 rupted from that of the neighbouring Porta Bagaudarum to 
 Place Eaudder, Baudier, Bauder, Baudois, Baudoyer. 
 
 The next opening, left of the Rue S. Honor^, forming 
 one side of the little square which contains the Fontaine des 
 Innocents, is the Rue S. Denis, originally important both as 
 
SS. LEU ET GILLES 131 
 
 leading to the tomb of S. Denis and as having the privilege 
 of the royal entries into the capital after the coronations at 
 Rheims. 
 
 ' The Rue S. Denis is one of the oldest streets in Paris, and is said 
 to have been first marked out by the track of the saint's footsteps, 
 when, after his martyrdom, he walked along it, with his head under 
 his arm, in quest of a burial-place. This legend may account for any 
 crookedness of the street, for it could not reasonably be asked of a, 
 headless man that he should walk straight. ' — Hawthorne, ' Note- Books. ' 
 
 Two low slated spires mark the picturesque little gothic 
 church of SS. Leu et Gilles ' — of which the houses only allow 
 the west front and the apse to be seen — a dependency of the 
 Abbey of S. Magloire. The church dates from 1320, but, 
 with the exception of the central portal, the fagade is of 
 1727, when the spire now on the south tower was transported 
 thither from a tower falling into ruins on the north side, 
 which was rebuilt. The side aisles are of the XVI. c. ; 
 but the choir and apse were rebuilt in 1780. Beneath 
 these is a crypt — the Chapel of Calvary — containing beneath 
 the altar a fine dead Christ of the XV. c. or XVI. c. from 
 the old church of S. Sepulchre. The pictures are not 
 worth much notice, except, from the subject, a portrait of 
 S. Frangois de Sales (left of altar), executed after his death 
 by Philippe de Champaigne. 
 
 'Dans la premiere chapelle, au sud, un tableau dat^ de 1772, 
 repr^sente le crime, la condemnation et le supplice d'un soldat qui fut 
 brills en 1415, pour avoir frapp^ de son cojiteau une image de la 
 Vierge, placee au coiri.de la rue aux Ours, pres I'eglise S. Leu. 
 L'image aurait, suivant la tradition, verse de sang en abondance. Pour 
 conserver la memoire de ce fait extraordinaire, on celebrait encore une 
 fete annuelle dans les derniers temps qui ont precede la revolution. 
 Un mannequin r^presentant le soldat sacrilege etait promen^ dans la 
 
 ^ S. Loup, the famous Bishop of Sens, and S. Gilles, the hermit of Provence. 
 
 K 2 
 
132 PARIS 
 
 ville pendant trois jours, et enfin livr^ aux flammes dans la nie aux 
 Ours, au milieu d'une illumination et d'un feu d'artifice.' — De ■ 
 Guilhermy, 
 
 To the right of the choir are three curious XV. c. 
 marble reliefs. A XVII. c. S. Genevieve once stood 
 near the shrine of the saint. The church formerly con- 
 tained the tomb of Marie Delandes, wife of the President 
 Chretien de Lamoignon, with a relief representing her being 
 secretly buried here by the poor she had succoured, and who 
 would not allow her to be taken from their parish church to, 
 that of the R^coUets. 
 
 Very near this stood at a very early period the Oratoire 
 de S. Georges, which became the church of S. Magloire 
 when the body of that Breton saint was sent hither to pre- 
 serve it from the Normans. To this church a Benedictine 
 abbey was attached, afterwards given to Les Filles Pdnitentes. 
 The very large church dated from the Xtl. c. 
 
 (On the other side of the Rue S. Denis, at the junction 
 of the Rue Grande et Petite Truanderie and Mondetour, 
 was the Puits d'' Amour, where a girl named Agnes Hell6bie 
 drowned herself because of her lover's treachery, in the time 
 of Philippe Auguste. Three hundred years after, a man 
 threw himself into the well on account of the cruelty of his 
 love, who repented and drew him up by a cord, after which 
 he restored the well, which was inscribed ' L'amour m'a 
 refait en 1525, tout-k-fait.' 
 
 This is one of the poorest parts of Paris, and the Rue 
 Maubude, one of the cross streets in descending the Rue S. 
 Denis, is pointed out as the Seven Dials of Paris. It is a 
 curious and picturesque old winding street. Its name, 
 Maubu'ee — 'mauvaise fum^e'— comes from its being the place 
 
S. MERRI 133 
 
 where Jews used to be roasted with green faggots, to punish, 
 said the counsellor De I'Ancre, 'Leur anthropomace, les 
 admirables cruautds dont ils ont toujours usd envers les Chre- 
 tiens, leur forme de vie, leur synagogue d^plaisante k, Dieu, 
 leur immondicit^ at puanteur.' 
 
 In the Rue de Tracy, which diverges north near the top 
 of the Rue S. Denis, a Greek building is the chapel of the 
 community of S. Chaumont. Behind (east of) the lower 
 part of the Rue S. Denis runs the Rue Quincampoix. This 
 district was the scene of the speculations of Law under the 
 Regency. In 1710 (Noveinber 2) we find the Duchesse 
 d'Orl^ans writing : — 
 
 ' La Rue Quincampoix fait qu'on ne joue plus k Paris. C'est une 
 vraie rage : j'en suis excedee : on n'entend parler que de cela, et il ne 
 se passe pas de jour que je ne re9oive trois ou quatre lettres de per- 
 sonnes qui me demandent des actions ; c'est bien ennuyeux.'— Corrf- 
 sfondance de Madame. 
 
 Crossing ihe ugly Boulevard de Sebastopol, in forming 
 which the chapels at the back of the church of SS. Leu et 
 Gilles were curtailed, we find ourselves in the Rue de Ram- 
 buteau, and the next cross street is the Rue S. Martin, 
 Descending towards Rue S. Honord (at No. 80) we may 
 observe a relief of the Annunciation. At the corner of the 
 Rue de la Verrerie is the church of S. Merri, . originally 
 built in the IX. c. on the site of a chapel of S. Pierre, 
 where S. Merri, who had been prior of the monastery of 
 S. Martin at Autun, was buried. But the present church, 
 begun under Fran9ois I., was only finished in 1612. The 
 great gothic portal, with two smaller portals at the sides, 
 is very rich in effect ; but its statues are only modern 
 copies from those at the south transept of Notre Dame ; 
 the woodwork is of the time of the construction. The 
 
134 PARIS 
 
 adjoining tower is gothic below, renaissance above, with 
 pilasters of the XVII. c. This is the tower which has 
 given the war-note of many revolutions, and whence 
 the ' tocsin de S. Merri,' sounding day and night, has sent 
 a thrill through thousands. In the Revolution of June 5 
 and 6, 1832, the church was long and obstinately defended 
 by the insurgents against the royal troops. 
 
 The interior of S. Merri has two side aisles on the right, 
 and only one on the left, the second being here replaced by 
 a passage through the chapels. The choir has a single aisle 
 surrounded by thirteen chapels. In spite of classical inno- 
 vations under Louis XIV., by which the gothic architec- 
 ture has been mutilated, the vaulting, the rose-windows 
 at the sides, and fragments of XVI. c. glass remain to be 
 admired. The sculpture of the high-altar is by Dubois, that 
 of the pulpit by Michel Ange Slodiz. Under the fifth bay of 
 the left aisle a staircase leads to a crypt, reconstructed in 
 the XVI. c, when the church was built, on the site of 
 that which contained the tomb of S. Merri. In this, 
 which was his parish church, Charles V. constructed a richly- 
 carved wooden oratory for a certain Guillemette, esteemed 
 a saint, who never left that place, and might be seen there 
 in ecstacy. All the Court had great faith in her holiness, 
 and recommended themselves to her prayers.^ Nothing 
 remains of the tomb of Jean Chapelain, author of ' La 
 Pucelle,' or of that of Arnaud de Pomponne, ambassador 
 and minister of state under Louis XIV. 
 
 Reascending the Rue S. Martin, we may see, on the right, 
 the openings of the Rue Maubuee and Rue de Venise, for- 
 merly the bankers' quarter, but which now, with their side 
 
 ^ Viollet-le-Duc, viii. 3. 
 
Si NICOLAS DES CHAMPS 135 
 
 alleys, may be looked upon as perhaps the most miserable 
 part— the St. Giles's— of Old Paris. On the right is the 
 opening of the Rue de Montmorency, which contains, marked 
 by an inscription, the house of the philanthropist, Nicolas 
 Flamel, partly destroyed in 1852. 
 
 ' Le grand pignon a qui elle devait son nora aux derniers siecles 
 n'existe plus, niais on y peut lire encore, en caracteres gothiques, au- 
 dessus du rez-de-chaussee, I'inscription qui est la plus touchante partie 
 de son histoire. De pauvres " hommes etfemmes laboureurs demourans 
 au porche de cette maison" y parlent de la " Patenosire et de PAve 
 Maria " qu'ils devaient dire chaque jour pour les tr^passes, et rappellent 
 ainsi I'hospitalite que leur donnait Flamel, en n'exigeant d'eux que 
 cette prifere pour loyer. II entendait la propri^t^ comme on ne la 
 comprend plus guere : avec ce que lui rapportait la partie la plus 
 avantageuse de chacune de ses niaisons, nombreuses dans ce quartier, 
 il logeait aux autres Stages et nourrissait des pauvres: "et," dit 
 Guillebert de Metz, " fist plusieurs maisons, ou gens de mestier 
 demouraient en bas, et du loyer qu'ils payoient estoient soutenus povres 
 laboureurs en hault. " ' — Edouard Fournier, 
 
 ' Nicolas Flamel fonda et dota quatorze hopitaux. En temps de 
 peste, il rachetait des maisons d^laissees, pourvu qu'elles lui panissent 
 assez vastes, et les transformait en hospices. La peste passait : 
 rhospice demeurait. II rebitit trois chapelles. II renta sept eglises, 
 entre autres S. Genevifeve-des-Ardens. II r^para trois cimeti^res, 
 notamment celui des Innocents.' — Edouard Plouvier, 'Paris Guide.'- 
 
 The house in the Rue de Montmorency, opposite the 
 entrance to the Passage des Panorames, was that of Des- 
 marest. Minister of Finance. 
 
 Far up the Rue S. Martin, on the right, is the church 
 of S. Nicolas des Champs,^ founded in the open country 
 — 'porro ante Parisiacae urbis portam' — and dedicated 
 in 1067, though chiefly dating, as it is now, in its 
 west part from 1420, in its east from 1576, the change 
 from gothic to renaissance having a striking effect in the 
 
 * One of three churches in Paris dedicated to this most popular saint, the others 
 being S. Nicolas du Louvre and S. Nicolas du Chardonnet. 
 
136 PARIS 
 
 interior. There is a beautiful west porch of the earlier date. 
 The church is a parallelogram, with two ranges of aisles, 
 bordered by a succession of chapels. The high-altar was 
 designed by Mansart. The tombs included those of Pierre 
 de Morvillier, Chancellor of France, and his parents, Philippe 
 de Morvillier and Jeanne de Drac, who founded (1426) a 
 chapel here to S. Nicholas, on quaint conditions attached to 
 one of its pillars, long carefully observed. 
 
 ' Chacun an, la veille de S. Martin d'hiver, les dits religieux, par 
 leur maire et un religieux, doivent donner, au premier president du 
 parlement, deux bonnets aux oreilles, I'un double, I'autre sengle, en 
 disnnt certaines paroles ; et, au premier huissier du parlement, un 
 gand et une escriptoire, en disant certaines paroles.' 
 
 Other persons buried here were the learned Guillaume 
 Budd, 1540 ; the philosopher Pierre Gassendi ; the brothers 
 Henri and Adrian de Valois, known by their historic 
 works ; and the celebrated Mile de Scuddry. In one of 
 the chapels is an altar-piece representing S. Martin curing a 
 leper by embracing him, and an inscription tells that the 
 spot where this miracle was performed was close to S. 
 Nicolas des Champs. 
 
 Close by (at No. 292) a handsome gateway forms the 
 entrance to the courtyard of the Conservatoire des Arts et 
 Metiers (open daily from 10 to 4), which has a fine staircase 
 by Antoine, 1786, and two floors of galleries filled with 
 models of machinery, freely open to the public, and very 
 interesting to scientific students. 
 
 The Conservatoire occupies the buildings which belonged 
 to the priory of S. Martin des Champs, founded by Henri I. 
 in 1060. It was only enclosed within the limits of the town 
 on the construction of its fourth ramparts in the beginning 
 
S. MARTIN DES CHAMPS 137 
 
 of the XlV. c. Hence its strong walls and towers, of 
 which a specimen is to be seen in this street near the 
 Fontaine du Vert Bois. The priory of S. Martin was given 
 to Cluny by Philippe I. in 1067, and bore the title of second 
 daughter of that famous abbey. At the Revolution, the 
 monastery was at first converted into a manufactory of arms, 
 but was appropriated to its present use in 1798. Of all the 
 ancient religious establishments of Paris this is the one which 
 has most preserved the characteristics of a monastery, retain- 
 ing portions of its outer walls, its church, a cloister, the re- 
 fectory, and the buildings which were inhabited by the 
 monks. The monks themselves unfortunately destroyed the 
 old chapter house, the tower of the archives, and chapel of 
 the Virgin, as well as the old cloister, which contained statues 
 of Henri I., Philippe I., and Louis VI., and which Piganiol 
 de la Force describes as unequalled in Paris for its size and 
 the number of its columns. 
 
 The Refectory, now used as a library, is wrongly attributed 
 to Pierre de Montereau, who was a child when it was com- 
 pleted. Nevertheless it is a masterpiece of XIII, c. archi- 
 tecture. Its two ranges of vaults are divided by slender 
 stone pillars, and lighted at the ends by beautiful rose- 
 windows. The rich gothic portal on the south led to the 
 first cloister, facing the lavabo. 
 
 ' Le conducteur de I'oeuvre, ayant habilement rejete sur les murs 
 et sur les piles externes I'effort principal de ses vofites, s'est trouv^ 
 maitre de reduire \ sa volonte le volume de ses colonnes medianes, sur 
 lesquelles la charge n'agit plus que dans le sens vertical. Nos lecteurs 
 iront admirer sur place le noble caract^re de cette architecture, 
 I'execution merveilleuse des chapiteaux, des consoles, et des clefs de 
 vodtes, les redents feuillag^s des roses qui sont perches au-dessus des 
 fenStres.' — De Guilhermy. 
 
138 PARIS 
 
 At the side of the hall the reader's graceful pulpit re- 
 mains, and is one of the oldest and best refectory pulpits in 
 existence. 
 
 ' On remarquera la disposition ingdnieuse de I'escalier montant k 
 cette chaire, pratiqu^ dans I'epaisseur du mur ; il n'est clos du cot^ de 
 I'interieur que par une claire-voie ; mais pour eviter que la charge du 
 mur au-dessus n'ecrasat cette claire-voie, le constructeur a pos^ un arc 
 de d&harge qui vient la soulager, et afin que cet arc ne poussit 
 pas, les premiers pieds-droits de la claire-voie ont ete inclines de fafon 
 4 opposer une butee k cette pouss^e. Aujourd'hui on demanderait 
 d'user d'artifices pour obtenir ce resultat de butee sans le rendre 
 apparent ; au commencement du xiii* si^cle, on n'y mettait pas 
 autrement de finesses.' — VioUet-le-Duc. 
 
 Of the old priory Church, the single nave, with a wooden 
 roof, was rebuilt in the XIII. c. ; but its choir and radiating 
 chapels are of the XI. c, and the earliest examples of gothic 
 architecture in Paris, though their vaultings were renewed 
 in the XII. c. 
 
 ' Le plan pr&ente une particularite— c'est une travee plus large 
 perc^e dans I'axe du choeur, et une grande chapelle centrale. Ici on 
 remarque une disposition de chapelles qui semble appartenir aux 
 ^glises abbatiales. Ces chapelles sont largement ouvertes sur les bas 
 c6tes, peu profondes, et sont en communication entre elles par une 
 sorte de double bas coti ^troit, qui produit en execution un grand effet. 
 . . . Dans les chapiteaux jumelfe du tour de chceur, dont la sculpture 
 atteint i la hauteur d'un art complet, on retrouve les ^l^ments 
 byzantins. Cette sculpture lappellerait celle des diptyques et des 
 plaques d'ivoire, I'orftvrerie byzantine. Le sentiment de la composi- 
 tion est grand, clair, contenu.' — Viollet-le-Duc. 
 
 In recent restorations a tourelle has been constructed 
 on the right of the entrance, to match an original tourelle on 
 the left : these turrets are hexagonal, with gothic orna- 
 ments, and pointed roofs. The church is now occupied by 
 a Museum of Hydraulic Machinery, 
 
 Crossing into the Rue du Temple and turning south, on 
 
h6tel de s. aignan 
 
 139 
 
 the left is the Rue S. Avoye, which commemorates S. Hed- 
 wige, daughter of Berthold, Duke of Carinthia. In this 
 dirty street lived and worked the famous portrait-painter 
 Largillifere — 'le peintre des dclatants velours.' At No. 71 
 Rue du Temple, near the angle of the Rue de Rambuteau, 
 
 h6tel s. aignan 
 
 is the Hdtel de S. Aignan, built by Pierre Lemuet for M. de 
 Mesmes, Comte d'Avaux, a celebrated diplomatist of the 
 XVII. c. It afterwards belonged to the Due de S. Aignan, 
 'chef du conseil royal des finances' under Louis XIV. 
 The stately entrance, which retains its magnificently carved 
 doors, leads to a court surrounded by arcades, and the 
 same engaged corinthian pilasters, reaching the whole height 
 of the building, which we shall see again at the Hotel de 
 
140 
 
 PARIS 
 
 Lamoignon. The Hotel de S. Aignan is now used for 
 warehouses. 
 
 Almost opposite this the Rue Rambuteau has cut through 
 the Hotel de Mesmes, where the famous Constable, Anne 
 de Montmorency, died of the wounds he had received at the 
 battle of S. Denis, November 12, 1567. He was so ignorant 
 
 DOOR-PANEL, h6tEL S. AIGNAN. 
 
 that he could not read ; but he had served five kings, had 
 fought in eight great battles, and had been employed in 
 ten treaties of peace. At the age of seventy-four he had 
 given so violent a blow to Robert Stuart, who called upon 
 him to surrender, that he had hurled him from his horse 
 and broken two of his teeth.' 
 
 * Mimoires de Castelnau, 
 
HOTEL DE CLISSON 
 
 141 
 
 On the east side of the Rue du Temple, the Rue de 
 Braque leads to an ancient and picturesque gateway, which 
 is the only remaining remnant of the Hdtel de Clisson, 
 built by the famous Constable, friend and companion in 
 
 GATE OF THE h6tEL DE CLISSQN 
 
 arms of Duguesclin, in 137 1. It was called at first H6tel 
 de la Misdricorde, because of the pardon Clisson obtained 
 from Charles V. for the Parisians, when they came crying 
 ' Mis^ricorde 1 ' here under his windows. In the XVI. c. 
 
142 PARIS 
 
 this hotel occupied, with the Hotels Roche-Giiyon and 
 Laval, a vast quadrangular space, bounded by the Hotel de 
 Rohan, the Rue de Quatre, Rue Chaume, and Rue de 
 Paradis. The Dues de Guise became the proprietors of 
 these hotels in 1550, and Frangois de Lorraine, the Due 
 de Guise murdered by a Protestant fajiatic near Orleans, 
 pulled them down and built a vast Hotel de Guise on 
 their site. This famous mansion became the cradle of the 
 Ligue, and from hence the order was issued for the Massacre 
 of S. Bartholomew. It was also from one of the windows 
 of this palace that Henri de Guise — ' le Balafr^ ' — hurled 
 the handsome Comte de S. Megrim, whom he discovered 
 in the chamber of his wife, Catherine de Clfeves, and whom 
 he caused to be assassinated, a few days after, in the Rue 
 S. Honord, as he was leaving the Louvre. Hither Henri IIL 
 sent to implore the Due de Guise to still a revolution, and 
 hence he issued an order which was productive of instant 
 calm, after which the people cried so constantly 'Vive 
 Guise ! vive Guise ! ' that . at length their idol thought it 
 needful to say, ' C'est assez, messieurs ; c'est trop j criez un 
 peu " Vive le roi ! " ' This triumph was too great for a 
 subject. In the words of Voltaire, — 
 
 ' Guise en ces grands desseins des ce.jour affermi, 
 Vit qu'il n'etait plus temps d'offenser i demi, 
 Et qu'elev^ si haut, niais sur un precipice, 
 S'il ne montait au trone, il montait au supplice,' 
 
 and he had reached the verge of a rebellion against his sove- 
 reign, which would probably have been successful, when he 
 was assassinated by the king's order at Blois.. 
 
 In. 1700 the h6tel once more changed its name, being 
 
LES ARCHIVES NATIONALES 143 
 
 bought by Mme de Soubise, ' que le roi aida fort k payer,' 
 says S. Simon ; for at that time she was the favourite of the 
 moment with Louis XIV. The king made her husband, 
 Frangois de Rohan, a prince, a favour which he appreciated 
 at its proper value when he answered congratulations with 
 ' Hdlas ! cela me vient par ma femme ; je n'en dois pas rece- 
 voir de compliment,' M. de Soubise, however, devoted 
 himself to the embellishment of his h&tel ; he pulled down 
 the Hotel de Laval and built a grand court of honour, sur- 
 rounded by arcades in the form of a horseshoe. This court 
 still exists, with an entrance of which the tympanum is 
 adorned by an allegorical figure of History, from a design 
 of Eugfene Delacroix. The next Prince de Soubise rendered 
 the hotel famous by the magnificence of his/l^w; his social 
 qualities made him exceptionally popular, and his misfor- 
 tunes as a general failed to alienate the goodwill of Louis XV., 
 a leniency which he repaid by being the one faithful friend 
 who accompanied the king's corpse to S. Denis. 
 
 The Hotel de Soubise is now occupied by the Archives 
 Nationales. The principal fa9ade was reconstructed by 
 Lemaire (1706), and has a noble portico surrounding a semi- 
 circular garden. The hotel has been so much added to 
 and altered internally that it possesses little of its ancient 
 decorations except the woodwork of the oval saloon, and 
 the paintings in that room and over the doors of several 
 other apartments, by Boucher, Carl Vanloo, &c. It retains, 
 however, its beautiful chapel (seldom shown), painted by 
 Niccolo del Abbate, and the gallery in which the Due de 
 Guise was walking and meditating upon the possible death 
 of Henri III., when he said, looking at the frescoes on the 
 walls, 'Je regarde toujours avec plaisir Duguesclin ; il eut 
 
144 PARIS 
 
 la gloire de d^troner un tyran.' ' Oui certes,' the gentleman 
 to whom he spoke ' had the courage to answer, ' mais ce 
 tyran n'^tait pas son roi ; c'dtait I'ennemi de son pays.' 
 
 The Museum of the Archives (open to the public on 
 Sundays only, from 12 to 3) is exceedingly interesting. A 
 vast number of curious documents are displayed and well 
 seen in glass cases, beginning with the diplomas of the 
 Merovingian, Carlovingian, and Capetian kings, and 
 continuing through the reigns of the Valois and Bourbon 
 sovereigns to the Republic, Consulate and Empire. Of 
 special interest are the papers relating to the trial of Jeanne 
 Dare. A very curious picture — Typus religionis — shows all 
 the faithful of different centuries in an ark, attacked by devils, 
 and boats manned by apostates, evil-thinkers, &c. The 
 Musk Sigillographique displays a collection of seals from 
 the time of Childeric I. (457). 
 
 Ascending the noble staircase, which has a painted 
 ceiling, we find several rooms devoted to the later Archives 
 of French History. In the beautifully-decorated Salle des 
 Bourbons are letters of d'Aguesseau, d'Antin, Dubois, the 
 Due de Maine, Due de Richelieu, Marshal Saxe, Maupeou, 
 Voltaire, Cr^billon, Due de Choiseul, Cardinal de BerniSj 
 Buffon, Turgot, Mesdames Louise, Sophie, and Victoire, 
 Princesse de Lamballe (with beautiful handwriting), de 
 Montmorin, Bailly, de Lamoignon, Due d'Orldans, Mont- 
 golfier, Florian, &c. Here also are the Procfes of Damiens, 
 the Letters of S. Simon about the prerogatives of dukes, the 
 Will of Marie Leczinska, &c. Inside the railing of the ruelle 
 which contained the bed, are the greatest treasures. The 
 
 ' He was the son of Jean le Seneschal, who threw himself in the way to save the 
 life of Francois I. in the battle of Pavia, and was Itilled in his place. 
 
55. JEAN ET FRANqOIS 145 
 
 volumes of the Journal of Louis XVI. ; his autograph Will 
 executed in the Temple ; the proch-verbal for his burial ; 
 and the last touching letter of Marie Antoinette to Madame 
 Elisabeth (written in the Conciergerie, October 10, 1793). 
 
 In the next room, with letters of Barnave, Mirabeau, 
 Necker, &c., are the Declaration concerning the Etats Natio- 
 naux, June 23, 1789 ; the Oath of Louis XVI. accepting the 
 Constitution, September 14, 1791 ; and some playing cards 
 inscribed at the back by Louis XVI. with the names of all 
 the persons to be admitted to his intimate circle. 
 
 In the Salle du Consulat, which has many letters in the 
 admirable hand of Napoleon I., is a table from the cabinet 
 of Louis XVI., which was taken to the Comitd de Salut 
 public at the Tuileries, and on which the wounded Robes- 
 pierre was laid when he was brought from the Hotel de 
 Ville. 
 
 The Rue des Archives was formerly divided between the 
 Rue du Grand Chantier and Rue des Enfants Rouges. 
 
 (Behind the Mus^e, at the entrance of the Rue Chariot, 
 is the Church of S. Jean and S. Francois, founded 1623, to 
 serve a Capuchin convent. It contains two beautiful statues 
 — S. Denis, by Jacques Sarrazin, and S. Frangois d' Assise, 
 by Germain Pilon, ordered by Anne^ of Austria for the 
 abbey of Montmartre.) 
 
 (A little south of the Musde des Archives, by the Rue de 
 I'Homme Arm^, is the Rue des Billettes. To expiate the 
 crime of the Jew Jonathas, who was burnt alive in 1290, for 
 piercing the Host with a penknife, a chapel was built here, 
 to which Philippe le Bel annexed a monastery of the 
 Hospitallers of la Charitd de Notre Dame. These were 
 suppressed and their convent ceded to the Carmelites, in 
 
 L 
 
146 PARIS 
 
 1631, Sold in 1793, the convent was repurchased in 1808, 
 and its church given to Lutheran worship. It will be found 
 on the left of the Rue des Billettes in descending to the 
 Rue S. Antoine. The door to the left of the church portal 
 is the entrance to a beautiful little Cloister of the end of the 
 XV. c, unique in Paris, and little known there.) 
 
 Further up the Rue du Temple, the Rue de Gravilliers 
 (on left) has a house (No. 69) of the time of Henri III'., 
 perhaps built by a relation of Gabrielle d'Estr^es, to whom it 
 is attributed. During the Revolution this street was con- 
 sidered to be a patriot-centre ; at No. 38, the accomplices 
 of Georges Cadoudal were arrested. 
 
 In the Rue du Temple, we now come (right) to a garden- 
 square with fountains. This is all that remains to mark the 
 site of the Temple, with which the saddest associations of 
 Paris are connected, and which gave its name to the street 
 called Rue de la Milice du Temple in 1235, and Rue de la 
 Chevalerie du Temple in 1252. 
 
 The Temple was a moated citadel, surrounded by battle- 
 mented walls, with round towers at intervals. Thus it 
 continued for 500 years. It was only finally destroyed in 
 1820. The Rues du Temple, de Vendome, de Chariot, 
 and de la Corderie, now cover the greater part of its en- 
 closure ; the Marchd du Temple and the adjoining square 
 only represent the space around the central donjon. 
 
 The Maison du Temple is mentioned in a charter of 
 Bishop Eudes, of 1205 ; the Commanderie du Temple in a 
 charter of 121 1. The already fortified Temple was not 
 enclosed in the walls of Philippe Auguste (1185). Henry 
 III. of England made it his residence for eight days in 
 1254, when he came to Paris to visit S. Louis, and adore 
 
THE TEMPLE 147 
 
 his collection of relics. Under Philippe le Hardi, the Grand 
 Priors of the Templars began to have disputes with the 
 kings of France ; and under Philippe le Bel their cupidity 
 and their vast wealth became fatal to them. The king 
 beheld the great riches of Jacques de Molay whilst he was 
 receiving his protecting hospitality during an insurrection in 
 Paris. Soon afterwards (October 13, 1307), the Grand 
 Master was arrested in the Temple, with 140 knights who 
 had come thither to attend a chapter of the Order. Torture 
 wrung from some of the number a confession, true or false, 
 of the many accusations brought against them, but they all 
 died protesting their innocence, the Grand Prior and the 
 Commanders of Aquitaine and Normandy being the last to 
 suffer (March 12, 13T1). The Order was abolished by 
 Clement V. in 13 13, and its riches bestowed upon that of 
 S. John of Jerusalem, but Philippe had already seized upon 
 all the riches of the Templars in Paris. 
 
 The Knights of S. John had become Knights of Rhodes, 
 when their Grand Master Foulque de Villant conquered the 
 infidels in Rhodes in 1307, but henceforth, in Paris, they 
 always bore the name of Chevaliers du Temple. Under 
 their rule, the Temple remained for 200 years much as the 
 Templars had left it — crowned with towers, defended by a 
 moat, and for some time looking down upon vast open 
 lands — marais, cultures and couriilles, though a great part of 
 these were built over when a new circuit of walls was begun 
 under Jean in 1356, and finished under Charles V. in 1380. 
 A vast open space within the walls of the fortress remained 
 unenclosed till Henri IV. planned the Place de France, 
 and when his death cut short his design, new streets were 
 erected, bearing names of provinces and chief towns of 
 
148 PARIS 
 
 France. Within the walls (which continued to be entered 
 by a single gate, between two great towers opposite the Rue 
 des Fontaines '), many of the old buildings were pulled 
 down by the Hospitallers. Thus, in the XVII. c, there 
 only remained the square Tour de C^sar, destroyed in 
 1816 ; the old Chapel of the first Templars, destroyed 
 1650; the hospital, the cloister, the great church with 
 its tombs of Grand Masters ^ and handsome campanile ; 
 and, above all, the Tour du Temple, a massive square 
 building, with a dry moat, and round tourelles at each 
 angle. 
 
 The accommodation in the tower consisted of four stories, 
 of a single room, in which a central pillar supported the 
 arched vaulting of the roof. One of the tourelles was a 
 staircase, the others contained little chambers communi- 
 cating with the central one. 
 
 ' La Tour du Temple datait de la fin du xiii" si^cle et avait ^te achev^e 
 en 1306, peu avant la dissolution de I'ordre. Cette tour etait sur plan 
 carr^, avec tourelles aux quatre angles, montant de fond. Ella 
 servait de tr&or, de dep8t de litres et de prison, comme la plupart 
 de ces donjons appartenant aux ^tablissements des chevaliers du Temple. 
 Get Edifice fut detruit en l^iOCf.' ~Viollet-le-Duc, ix. 169. 
 
 Up to the end of the XVII, c, the Temple continued 
 to be almost in the country. Mme de Coulanges, living 
 within its precincts, writes to Mme de Sevign^ of the 
 uninterrupted view of the country prolonging her garden as 
 far as the eye could reach. 
 
 From the time of the Templars the Tour du Temple 
 
 * which contained the Convent of S. Elizabeth, and that of La Madeleine, 
 known, during the Revolution, as the Prison of Les Madelonnettes. 
 
 " it contained many rehcs, supposed to include the ead of S. John the Baptist, 
 also claimed by the Cathedral of Amiens. 
 
THE TEMPLE ' 149 
 
 had been occasionally used as a state prison, The Grand 
 Priors had long ceased to live in it, and in the XVII. c. 
 they built a hotel for themselves, with a handsome 
 entrance upon the Rue du Temple. Part of this hotel still 
 existed in 1789. It had been enlarged by the Chevaher 
 d'Orleans, and adorned with paintings by Nattier and 
 Raoux. Its little garden, exactly marked out by the pre- 
 sent square, contained one of the finest and oldest chestnut- 
 trees in France. A number of smaller hotels collected round 
 that of the Grand Prieur, where many aristocratic families 
 setded. The Hotel de Boisboudrand was inhabited by the 
 Abb6 de Chaulieu, called by Voltaire TAnacr^on du 
 Temple;' Rousseau lived in 1770 at the Hotel de Guisej 
 where Mile de Guise was born and whither she returned 
 to live and die in her birthplace, soon after her marriage 
 with the Mardchal Due de Richelieu ; in the Hotel de 
 Boufflers lived the charming Marquise de Boufflers, to 
 be near her friend the Grand Prior, Louis Frangois de 
 Bourbon-Conti. The freedom from taxes which was en- 
 joyed there made a great number of artisans settle within 
 the Temple walls, whilst the right of sanctuary brought 
 thither a number of debtors, who supported themselves 
 by trades which were prohibited in Paris itself, es- 
 pecially the manufacture of false jewellery — ' bijoux du 
 Temple,' 
 
 From the XVI. c, the office of Grand Prior and 
 the Commanderie of the Temple was the richest appan- 
 age of the bastards of the royal family. Henri d'An- 
 goulSme, son of Henri II. by a Scotch lady, held it from 
 1507 to 1586 ; Charles de Valois, Due d'Angouleme, son 
 of Charles IX. and the Dame de Belleville, succeeded ; 
 
150 PARIS 
 
 Alexandre de Vendome, son of Henri IV, and the Duchess 
 of Beaufort, was instituted in 1604, at six years old, in the 
 church of the Temple — 'lieu propre et de tout temps 
 affects aux batards.' ' In 1678 the office was obtained by 
 the brilliant Philippe de Vendome (great-grandson of 
 Henri IV. and Gabrielle d'Estrdes), who, under the Regency, 
 instituted the ' Soupers du Temple,' famous for their wit. In 
 1 7 19 he resigned the office of Grand Prieur (continuing to 
 be Prieur de Vendome) to Jean Philippe d'0rl6ans, son of 
 the Regent, by Mile de Sery, Comtesse d'Argenton. The 
 , last two Grand Priors were not bastards, but Princes of 
 the Blood — Louis Frangois de Bourbon, Prince de Conti 
 (ob. 1776) and Louis Antoine de Bourbon, Due d'Angou- 
 leme, son of the Comte d'Artois. The latter was in his 
 cradle when he succeeded and did not keep the office till 
 his majority, as the Order of Malta was suppressed, with all 
 the religious Orders, June 10, 1790. 
 
 In August 1793, in answer to the demand of the Com- 
 mune to the Assembly, Louis XVI. and his family were 
 brought as prisoners to the Temple. 
 
 ' L'4me navree de douleur, la famille royale arriva au Temple. 
 Santerre fut la premiere personne qui se presenta dans la cour ou Ton 
 descendit. II fit aux ofRciers municipaux un signe que, dans le 
 moment, je ne pus interpreter. Depuis que j'ai connu les localites du 
 Temple, j'ai juge que I'objet de ce signe ^tait de conduire, des I'instant 
 de son arrivee, le roi dans la tour. Un mouvement de tete de la part 
 des officiers municipaux annon9a qu'il n'etait pas encore temps. 
 
 ' La famille royale fut introduite dans la partie des batiments dite 
 le palais, demeure ordinaire de Monseigneur, comte d'Artois, quand 
 il venait k Paris. Les municipaux se tenaient aupr^s du roi, le 
 chapeau sur la tete, et ne lui donnaient d'autre titre que celui de 
 Monsieur. Un homme i longue barbe, que j'avais pris d'abord pour 
 un juif, affectait de rep^ter a tout propos cette qualification. 
 ' Pierre de I'Estoile. 
 
THE TEMPLE 151 
 
 ' Dans la persuasion ou ^tait le roi que desormais le palais du 
 Temple allait etre sa demeure, il voulait en visiter les appartements. 
 Tandis que les municipaux se faisaient un plaisir cruel de I'erreur du 
 roi pour inieux jouir ensuite de sa surprise, Sa Majesty se plaisait a 
 faire d'avance la distribution des divers logements. 
 
 ' Aussitfit I'interieur du Temple fut garni de nombreux factionnaires. 
 La coasigrie ^tait si severe, qu'on ne pouvait faire un pas sans §tre 
 arretf^. Au milieu de cette foule de satellites, le roi montrait un calme 
 qui peignait le repos de sa conscience. 
 
 ' A dix heures, on servit le souper. Pendant le repas, qui fut court, 
 Manuel se tint debout i cot^ du roi. Le souper fini, la famille royale 
 rentra dans le salon. D^s cet instant, Louis XVI fut abandonn^ i 
 cette commune factieuse, qui I'investit de gardiens, ou plut6t de 
 geSliers, a qui elle donna le titre de commissaires. En entrant au 
 Temple, les municipaux avaient pr^venu les personnes du service que 
 la famille royale ne coucherait pas dans le palais, qu'elle I'habiterait 
 le jour seulement : ainsi nous ne fCtmes pas surpris d'entendre, vers 
 onze heures du soir, I'un des commissaires nous donner I'ordre de 
 prendre le peu d'effets en linge et vStements qu'il avail ^t^ possible de 
 se procurer, et de le suivre. 
 
 ' Un municipal, portant une lanterne, me pr&edait. A la faible lueur 
 qu'elle repandait, je cherchais a d^couvrir le lieu qui etait destine i 
 la famille royale. On s'arreta au pied d'un corps de batiment que les 
 ombres de la nuit me firent croire considerable. Sans pouvoir rien 
 distinguer, je remarquai neanmoins une difference entre la forme de cet 
 edifice et celle du palais que nous quittions. La-partie ant^rieure du toit, 
 qui me parut surmontee de fleches que je pris pour des clochers, etait 
 couronnee de creneaux, sur lesquels, de distance en distance, brulaient 
 des lampions. Malgre la clart^ qu'ils jetaient par intervalles, je ne 
 compris pas quel pouvait etre cet edifice, bati sur un plan extraor- 
 dinaire, ou du moins tout i fait nouveau pour moi. 
 
 ' En ce moment, un des municipaux, rompant le morne silence 
 qu'il avait observe pendant toute la marche : " Ton maltre," me dit-il, 
 *' etait accoutume aux lambris dores. Eh bien ! il verra comme on 
 loge les assassins du peuple : suis-moi." Je montai plusieurs marches : 
 une porte etroite et basse me conduisit k un escalier construit en 
 coquille de colimajon. Lorsque je passai de cet escalier principal 
 a un plus petit qui menait au second etage, je m'aperyus que j'^tais 
 dans une tour. J'entrai dans une chambre eclairee du jour par une 
 seule fenetre, depourvue en partie des meubles les plus necessaires, et 
 n'ayant qu'un mauvais lit et trois ou quatre sieges. " C'est la que ton 
 
152 PARIS 
 
 niattre couchera," me dit le municipal. Chamilly m'avait rejoint : nous 
 nous regardimes sans dire mot : on nous jeta, comuie par grace, une 
 paire de draps. Enfin on nous laissa seuls quelques moments. 
 
 ' Une alc6ve, sans tenture ni rideaux, renfermait une couchette, 
 qu'une vieille claie d'osier annon9ait ^tre remplie d'insectes. Nous 
 travaillames k rendre le plus propres possible et la chambre et le lit. 
 Le roi entra ; il ne t^moigna ni surprise ni humeur. Des gravures, la 
 plupart peu d&entes, tapissaient les niurs de la chambre : il les 6ta 
 lui-meme. " Je ne veux pas," dit-il, "laisser de pareils objets sous les, 
 yeux de ma fiUe." Sa Majeste se coucha, et dormit paisiblement. 
 Chamilly et moi restimes toute la nuit assis aupr^s de son lit. Nous 
 contemplions avec respect ce calme de I'homme irreprochable 
 luttant contra I'infortune, et la domptant par son courage. Les 
 factionnaires poses a la porte de la chambre dtaient relevds d'heure en 
 heure ; et chaque jour les municipaux de garde ^taient changfe. . . . 
 
 ' Ce n'itait qu'au moment ou je levais et couchais le roi, qu'il 
 hasardait de me dire quelques mots. Assis et couvert par ses rideaux, 
 ce qu'il me disait n'etait point entendu par le commissaire. Un jour 
 que Sa Majeste avait eu les oreilles frapp^es des injures dont le muni- 
 cipal de garde m'avait accabl^ : " Vous avez eu beaucoup a souffrir 
 aujourd'hui," me dit le roi. " Eh bien ! pour I'amourde rooi, continuez 
 i supporter tout : ne r^pliquez rien. " J'executai facilement cet ordre. 
 Plus le poids du malheur s'appesantissait -sur mon maitre, plus sa 
 personne me devenait sacree. 
 
 ' Une autre fois, comme j'attachais au chevet de son lit une epingle 
 noire, dont j'avais fait une esp^ce de porte-montre, le roi me glissa dans 
 la main un papier roule. "Voila de mes cheveux," me dit-il, "c'est 
 le seul present que je puisse vous faire dans ce moment," ' — Hue^ 
 ' Mimoires.^ ' 
 
 The faithful valet of Louis XVI. has given us details of 
 the life of the royal prisoners in the Temple. 
 
 ' Le roi se levait ordinairement i six heures du matin ; il se rasait 
 lui-m&iie ; je le coiffais et I'habillais. II passait aussit6t dans son 
 cabinet de lecture. Cette piece dtant trfes-petite, le municipal restait 
 dans la chambre i coucher, la porte entr'ouverte, afin d'avoir 
 toujours les yeux sur le roi. Sa Majesty priait i genoux pendant cinq 
 k six minutes, et lisait ensuite jusqu'i neuf heures. Dans cet inter- 
 valle, apr^s avoir fait sa chambre et prepare la table pour le dejeuner, 
 je descendais chez la reine : elle n'ouvrait sa porte qu'i mon arrivee. 
 
THE TEMPLE 153 
 
 afin d'emp^cher que le municipal n'entrat chez elle. Je faisais les 
 cheveux du jeune prince, j'arrangeais la toilette de la reine, et j'allais, 
 pour le meme service, dans la chambre de madame Royale et de 
 madame Elisabeth. Ce moment de la toilette ^tait un de ceux ou je 
 pouvais instruire la reine et les princesses de ce que j'avais appris. Un 
 signe indiquait que j'avais quelque chose k leur dire, et I'une d'elles, 
 causant avec I'officier municipal, detournait son attention. 
 
 ' A neuf heures, la reine, ses enfants et madame Elisabeth montaient 
 dans la chambre du roi pour le dejeuner : apres les avoir servis, je 
 faisais les chambres de la reine et des princesses. ... A dix heures, 
 le roi descendait avec sa faniille dans la chambre de la reine et y 
 passait la journ^e. II s'occupait de I'education de son fils, lui faisant 
 reciter quelques passages de Corneille et de Racine ; lui donnait des 
 lemons de geographic, et Fexerjait k laver des cartes. L'intelligence 
 prematur^e du jeune prince repondait parfaitement aux tendres soins 
 du roi. Sa memoire ^tait si heureuse que sur une carte couverte d'une 
 feuille de papier, il indiquait les departements, les districts, les villes et 
 le cours des rivieres : c'etait la nouvelle g&graphie de la France que le 
 roi lui montrait. La reine, de son cot^ s'occupait de I'education de sa 
 fille ; et ces diff^rentes lemons duraient jusqu'k onze heures. Le reste 
 de la matin^-e se passait a coudre, k tricoter, ou travailler a de la 
 tapisserie. A midi les trois princesses se rendaient dans la chambre 
 de madame Elisabeth pour quitter leur robe du matin ; aucun municipal 
 n'entrait avec elles. 
 
 ' A une heure, lorsque le temps etait beau, on faisait descendre la 
 famille royale dans le jardin, quatre officiers niunicipaux et un chef de 
 legion de la garde nationale I'accompagnaient. Comrae il y avait 
 quantite d'ouvriers dans le Temple, employes aux demolitions des 
 maisons et aux constructions des nouveaux murs, on ne donnait pour 
 promenade qu'une partie de I'allee des marronniers ; il m'^tait aussi 
 permis de participer a ces promenades, penda;ht lesquelles je faisais 
 jouer le jeune prince, soil au ballon, au palet, a la course, soit a 
 d'autres jeux d'exercice. 
 
 ' A deux heures, on remontait dans la tour, oii je servais le diner ; et 
 tous les jours k la ni^m.e heure, Santerre, brasseur de biere, com- 
 mandant general de la garde nationale de Paris, venait au Temple, 
 accompagne de deux aides-de-camp. II visitait exactement les dif- 
 ferentes pieces. Quelquefois le roi lui adressait la parole, la reine 
 jamais. Apr^s le repas, la famille royale se rendait dans la chambre 
 de la reine. Leurs Majestes faisaient assez ordinairement une partie de 
 piquet ou de trictrac. C'etait pendant ce tempp que je dinais. 
 
154 PARIS 
 
 ' A quatre heures, le roi prenait quelques instants de repos, les 
 princesses autour de lui chacune un livre i la main ; le plus grand 
 silence regnait pendant ce sommeil. 
 
 ' Au reveil du roi, on reprenait la conversation ; ce prince me 
 faisait asseoir aupris de lui. Je donnais sous ses yeux des lejons 
 d'ecriture k son fils ; et, d'apres ses indications, je copiais des 
 exemples dans les (Euvres de Montesquieu et d'autres auteurs c^l^bres. 
 Apr^s cette lefon, je conduisais le jeune prince dans la chambre de 
 madame Elisabeth, oii je le faisais jouer a la balle et au volant. 
 
 ' A la fin du jour, la famille royale se pla9ait autour d'une table ; 
 la reine faisait i haute voix une lecture de livres d'histoire ou de 
 quelques ouvrages bien choisis, propres k instruire et i amuser ses 
 enfants, mais dans lesquels des rapprochements imprevus avec sa situation 
 se presentaient souvent et donnaient lieu i des idees bien douloureuses. 
 Madame Elisabeth lisait ^ son tour, et cette lecture durait jusqu'i huit 
 heures. Je servais ensuite le souper du jeune prince dans la chambre 
 de madame Elisabeth. La famille royale y assistait ; le roi se plaisait 
 k y donner quelque distraction a ses enfants, en leur faisant deviner des 
 enigmes tirees d'une collection de Mercures de France qu'il avail 
 trouvee dans la biblioth^que. 
 
 ' Apr^s le souper de monsieur le Dauphin, je le deshabillais : c'etait 
 la reine qui lui faisait rdciter ses pri^res : il en faisait une particuli^re 
 pour madame la princesse de Lamballe, et par une autre il demandait 
 a Dieu de proteger les jours de madame la marquise de Tourzel, 
 sa gouvernante. Lorsque les municipaux etaient trop prfes, ce jeune 
 prince avail de lui-meme la precaudon de dire ces deux derni^res 
 prieres a voix basse. Je le faisais passer ensuite dans le cabinet ; el si 
 j'avais quelque chose 4 apprendre a la reine, je saisissais eel instant. 
 Je rinstruisais du contenu des journaux : on n'en laissait arriver aucun 
 dans la tour ; mais un crieur envoye expres venait tous les soirs a sept 
 heures, s'approchail pr^s du mur du cote de la rotonde dans I'enclos du 
 Temple, et criait, k plusieurs reprises, le precis de lout ce qui s'elait 
 passe i I'assemblee nationale, k la commune el aux armies. C'etait 
 dans le cabinet du roi que je me playais pour I'ecouter, et Ik, dans le 
 silence, il m'etait facile de retenir tout ce que j'entendais. 
 
 ' A neuf heures, le roi .soupait. La reiile et madame Elisabeth 
 restaient alternativement auprte de monsieur le Dauphin pendant ce 
 repas : je leur portais ce qu'elles d^siraient du souper ; c'etait encore 
 un des instants ou je pouvais leur parler sans temoins. 
 
 ' Apris le souper, le roi remontail un instant dans la chambre de la 
 reine, lui donnait la main en signe d'adieu, ainsi qu'k sa soeur, et 
 
THE TEMPLE 155 
 
 recevait les embrassements de ses enfans ; il allait dans sa chambre, se 
 retirait dans son cabinet, et y lisait jusqu'^ minuit. La reine et les 
 princesses se renfermaient chez elles. Un des municipaux restait dans la 
 petite piece qui s^parait leurs chambres, et y passait la nuit : I'autre 
 suivait Sa yi^i^esti..'' —Journal de CUry. 
 
 Here, on January 20, 1793, the day before his execution, 
 Louis XVI. took leave of his family. 
 
 'A huit heures et demie, la porta s'ouvrit : la reine parut la premiere 
 tenant son fils par la main, ensuite madame Royale et madame Elisa- 
 beth ; tous se precipit^rent dans les bras du roi. Un morne silence 
 regna pendant quelques minutes, et ne fut interrompu que par des 
 sanglots. La reine fit un mouvement pour entrainer le roi vers sa 
 chambre. " Non," dit le roi, " passons dans cette salle ; je ne puis vous 
 voir que Ik." lis y entr^rent et j'en fermai la porte qui ^tait en vitrage. 
 Le roi s'assit, la reine k sa gauche, madame Elisabeth k sa droite, 
 madame Royale presqu'en face, et le jeune prince resta debout entre 
 les jambes du roi ; tous etaient penches vers lui, et le tenaient souvent 
 embrass^. Cette scene de douleur dura sept quarts-d'heure, pendant 
 lequel il fut impossible de rien entendre ; on voyait seulement qu'apr^s 
 chaque phrase du roi, les sanglots des princesses redoublaient, duraient 
 quelques minutes, et qu'ensuite le roi recommenjait k parler. II fut 
 aise de juger a leurs mouvements que lui-m^me leur avail appris sa con- 
 damnation. 
 
 ' A dix heures un quart, le roi se leva le premier, et tous le suivirent, 
 j'ouvris la porte ; la reine tenait le roi par le bras droit. Leurs 
 Majestes donnaient chacune une main k monsieur le Dauphin ; 
 madame Royale a la gauche tenait le roi embrasse par le milieu du 
 corps ; madame Elisabeth du meme cot^, mais un peu plus en arrive, 
 avait saisi le bras gauche de son auguste frere ; ils firent quelques pas 
 vers la porte d'entree, en poussant les gemisserrients les plus douloureux. 
 " Je vous assure," leur dit le roi, " que je vous verrai demain matin, a 
 huit heures." " Vous nous le promettez," repeterent-ils tous ensemble. 
 " Oui, je vous le promets." " Pourquoi pas a sept heures? "dit la reine. 
 "Eh bien ! oui, a sept heures," repondit le roi ; " adieu." ... II pro- 
 nonca cet adieu d'une maniere si expressive que les sanglots redou- 
 blerent. Madame Royale tomba ^vanouie aux pieds du roi, qu'elle 
 tenait embrasse ; je la relevai et j'aidai madame Elisabeth a la soutenir ; 
 le roi, voulant mettre fin a cette scene dechirante, leur donna les plus 
 tendres embrassements, et eut la force de s'arracher de leurs bras. 
 
IS6 PARIS 
 
 "Adieu, . . Adieu, . ." dit-il, et il rentra danssa chambre. '— ^owrKs/ 
 de Cliry. 
 
 On July 3, the Queen was deprived of her son. 
 
 'Louis XVII., arrach^ des bras de la reine, avail 4t^ s^questr^ 
 dans la partie de la tour que le roi avait occupee, L^, ce jeune prince, 
 que quelques-uns des regicides appelaient le louveteau du Temple, 
 etait abandonn^ aux brutalites d'un monstre nomm^ Simon, autrefois 
 cordonnier, ivrogne, joueur, debauche. L'age, I'innocence, I'infortune, 
 la figure celeste, la langueur et les larmes de I'enfant royal, rien ne 
 pouvait attendrir ce gardien feroce. Un jour, ^tant ivre, peu s'en 
 fallut qu'il n'arrachat d'un coup de serviette I'oeil de ce jeune prince que, 
 par raffinement d'outrage, il avait contraint de le servir i table. II le 
 battait sans pitie. 
 
 ' Un jour, dans un acces de rage, il prit un cTienet, et, I'ayant lev^ sur 
 lui, il le mena9a de Tassommer. L'h^ritier de tant de rois n'entendait 
 k chaque instant que des mots grossiers et des chansons obscenes. 
 '* Capet," lui dit uu jour Simon, "si ces Vendeens te delivraient, que 
 ferais-tu ? " " Je voiis pardonnerais," lui repondit le jeune roi. — Hue, 
 ' Demihres annies de Louis XVJ.' 
 
 The Dauphin died in his prison, of the ill-treatment he 
 had received, on June 9, 1795. 
 
 On August 2, 1793, the Queen was separated from her 
 daughter and Madame Elisabeth, and removed to the 
 Conciergerie. Madame Royale relates — 
 
 ' Le 2 aofit, ci deux heures du matin, on vint nous ^veiller pour lire 
 k ma mire le decret de la Convention qui ordonnait que, sur la requisi- 
 tion du procureur de la Commune, elle serait cqnduite k la conciergerie 
 pour qu'on lui fit son procis. Elle entendit Ja lecture de ce dteret 
 sans s'^mouvoir et sans leur dire une seule parole ; ma tante et moi nous 
 demandSmes de suite k suivre ma mere, mais ■on ne nous accorda pas 
 cette grice. Pendant qu'elle fit le paquet de ses vetements, les munici- 
 paux ne la quitterent point ; elle fut meme obligee de s'habiUer devant 
 eux. lis lui demanderent ses pocbes, qu'elle donna ; ils les fouillirent 
 et prirent tout ce qu'il y avait dedans. . . Ma mire, apris m'avoir 
 tendrement embrassee, et recommandd de prendre courage, d'avoir 
 bien soin de ma tante, et de lui obeir comme i une second e 
 mire, me renouvela les memes instructions que mon pere ; puis, se 
 jetant dans les bras de ma tante, elle lui recommanda ses enfants. Je ne 
 
THE TEMPLE 
 
 157 
 
 lui r^pondis lien, tantj'^taiseffray^e del'idfe de la voir pour la demi^re 
 fois ; ma tante lui dit quelques mots bien has. Alors ma m^re partit 
 sans Jeter les yeux sur nous, de peur sans doute que sa fermet^ ne 
 I'abandonnat. En sortant, elle se frappa la tete au guichet, ne pensant 
 pas i se baisser ; on lui denianda si elle s'etait fait du raal. " Oh ! 
 non,' " dit-elle, " lien k present ne peut iiae faire du roal." ' — Rkit des 
 Jvhiements arrivh au Temple. 
 
 On May 9, 1794, Madame Elisabeth was carried off to 
 execution, and lier niece was left alone in her prison. 
 
 ' Le 9 mai, au moment 011 nous allions nous mettre au lit, on ouvrit 
 les verrous et on vint frapper k notre porte. Ma tante dit qu'elle 
 passait sa robe ; on lui repondit que cela ne pouvait pas Stre si long, et 
 on frappa si fort, qu'on pensa enfoncer la porte. Elle ouvrit quand 
 elle fut habillee. On lui dit : "Citoyenne, veux-tu bien descendre? " 
 Et ma niece : " On s'en occupera apr^s. " Ma tante m'embrassa et me 
 dit de me calmer, qu'elle allait remonter. " Non, citoyenne, tu ne 
 rcmonteras pas," lui dit-on ; "prendston bonnet et descends." On 
 I'accabla alors d'injures et de grossi^retes ; elle les souffrit avec 
 patience, prit son bonnet, m'embrassa encore, et me dit d'avoir du 
 courage et de la fermet^, d'esp^rer toujours en Dieu, de me servir des 
 bons principes de religion que mes parents m'avaient donnes, et de ne 
 point manquer aux dernieres recommandations de mon p^re et de ma 
 m^re. Elle sortit ; arriv^e en bas, on lui demanda ses poches, oil il n'y 
 avait rien. Enfin, apres mille injures, elle partit avec I'huissier du 
 tribunal.' — Ricit des iv^nements arrivJs au Temple. 
 
 Madame Royale was released from the Temple, 
 December 19, 1795, after a captivity of three years, four 
 months, and five days. 
 
 ' Elle ne laissa d'autre trace de sa captivite et de ses larmes dans 
 sa prison que ces deux lignes gravees par elle sur la pierre de sa fen^tre 
 pendant les longues oisivetes de la reclusion : " O mon pere, veille sur 
 moi du haut du ciel ! O mon Dieu, pardonnez i ceux qui ont fait 
 mourir mon pfere. ' — Lamartine, ' Hist, de la Restauration. ' 
 
 Nothing is now left of the Temple, but (near a rock on 
 the south side of the square) the weeping-willow which 
 
iS8 
 
 PARIS 
 
 Madame Royale, then Duchesse d'Angouleme, planted in 
 1814, on the site of the prison of her sorrows. 
 
 Higher up the Rue du Temple (left) is the Church of 
 S. Elizabeth, founded by Marie de Medicis in 1628, for a 
 convent of Franciscan nuns. It contains a singular font 
 
 OVER DOORWAY, RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE. 
 
 of 1654, and 100 little XVI. c. sculptures in wood, of Bible 
 History, said to come from a church at Arras. 
 
 In the Rue de Bretagne, running along the lower side 
 of the Jardin du Temple, No. i is the ancient HStel de 
 Tallard, the staircase of which is a masterwork of Bullet. 
 The Rue de Bretagne will take us into the Rue Vieille du 
 Temple, one of the busiest streets of the quarter. 
 
 On the east, the Rue des Coutures S. Gervais contains 
 
£COLE DES ARTS ET MANUFACTURES 159 
 
 (No. i), the entrance to the Ecole Centrale des Arts et 
 Manufactures. The Hotel was built, in 1656, for the 
 financier Aubert de Fontenay. His monogram remains on 
 the balustrade of the splendid staircase. His having be- 
 come enriched by the salt-tax at one time gave his house 
 the name of Hotel Sal^. Long the Venetian embassy, it 
 became the property of the Mardchal de ViHeroy, then of 
 
 IN THE COURT OF THE PALAIS CARDINAL. 
 
 M. de Juignd, archbishop of Paris. The archiepiscopal 
 kitchens are now laboratories. A great hall is called the 
 Salle de Jupiter. 
 
 The Rue Vieille du Temple is full of fine old houses. 
 No. 108 has a handsome courtyard in brick and stone. 
 At No. 54 is the Tourelle of the Hotel Barbette, which 
 we shall return to in the next chapter. The gateway, 
 at No. 87 leads into the courtyard of the stately Palais 
 
i6o PARIS 
 
 Cardinal, begun, in 17 12, upon part of the site pre- 
 viously occupied by the Hotel de Soubise. The court 
 of this palace and its surroundings are magnificent of 
 their kind, and were famous as the residence of the hand- 
 some and dissolute Cardinal de Rohan, who, utterly duped 
 by the intrigues of a woman caUing herself Comtesse 
 Lamotte Valois, was arrested for the ' affaire du collier,' and 
 imprisoned in the Bastille. It was his trial (followed by an 
 acquittal) which rendered Marie Antoinette unpopular with 
 the clergy and a great part of the aristocracy, besides 
 causing an exposure of court scandals and extravagance 
 fatally injurious to her with the people. This was the 
 Cardinal Grand Almoner of France, who, when his brother 
 the Grand Chamberlain failed for thirty-three rnillions, 
 announced proudly — ' II n'y a qu'un roi ou un Rohan qui 
 puisse faire une pareille banqueroute ; c'^tait une banque- 
 route de souverain.' 
 
 The Palais Cardinal is now used for the Imprimeric 
 Nationale (open to visitors provided with an ordfer at 2 p.m. 
 on Thursdays). The institution has its origin in the Im- 
 primerie Royale established by Frangois I. in the Louvre. 
 It was partly transferred to the Elysde Bourbon in 1792, and 
 was estabhshed in the Hotel de Toulouse in 1798. In 
 1809 it was brought to its present site. The most interest- 
 ing typographical curiosity here is the set of matrices of the 
 Grec du i?i7z'— Greek characters engraved for Francois I. 
 
 At No. 47, opposite the Marchi des Blancs-Manteaux, 
 is the Hdtel de Hollande, which was the residence of 
 the ambassador of Holland under Louis XIV. It was 
 built in the XVII. c. by Pierre Coftard for Amelot de 
 Bisseul, and was, at one time, the residence of Beau- 
 
HdTEL DE HOLLANDE i6i 
 
 marchais. The splendid entrance recalls that of the Ecole 
 de Dessin ; its gates are decorated with Medusa heads, 
 angels supporting shields, &c. The court is very rich in 
 sculptured Caryatides. At the back of the entrance portal 
 is a great relief by Regnaudin of Romulus and Remus 
 suckled by the wolf and found by the shepherd Faustulus. 
 The rooms were adorned with bas-reliefs and paintings by 
 Sarazin, Poerson, Vouet, Dorigny, and Corneille. 
 
i62 ' PARIS 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE MARAIS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE h6tEL 
 DE VILLE. 
 
 THERE are, as a whole, more historic relics remaining 
 in the Marais than in any other part of Paris. In 
 the XVIII. c. the Marais was regarded rather as a province 
 than as a quarter of Paris : thus we read in the song of 
 Colld and Sedaine : 
 
 ' On n'est plus de Paris quand on est du Marais, 
 Vive, vive le quartiei du Marais.' ' 
 
 ' Ici, vous retrouvez du moins le siecle de Louis XIII., tant pour 
 les mceurs que pour les opinions surann^es. Le Marais est au quartier 
 brillant du Palais-Royal ce que Vienne est ^ Londres. Lk, r^gne, 
 non la misere, mais I'amas complet de tous les vieux prejug^s ; les 
 demi-fortunes s'y refugient. Li, se voyent les vieillards grondeurs, 
 sombres, ennemis de toutes les idees nouvelles ; et les conseillferes 
 bien imperieuses y frondent, sans savoir lire, les auteurs dont les noms 
 parviennent jusqu'i elles. On y appelle les philosophes, des gens cl. 
 IrHler. Si on a le malheur d'y souper, on n'y rencontre que des sots ; 
 et I'on cherche en vain ces hommes aimables, qui oment leurs id&s du 
 brillant de I'esprit et des charmes du sentiment.' — Tableau de Paris, 
 1782. 
 
 Turning east from the Rue Vieille du Temple, by the 
 
 * ' Mauvaise plalsanterie sur le quartier du Marais.' 
 
HdTEL BARBETTE 
 
 163 
 
 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, we find at the angle a picturesque 
 and beautiful old house, with an overhanging tourelle, orna- 
 mented by niches and pinnacles. It takes its name of 
 Hotel Barbette from Etienne Barbette, Master of the Mint, 
 
 hOtel barbette. 
 
 and confidential friend of Philippe de Bel, ' directeur de la 
 monnoie et de la voierie de Paris,' who built a house here 
 in 1298. At that time the house stood in large gardens 
 which occupied the whole space between the Cultures 
 S, Catherine, du Temple, and S. Gervais, and which had 
 
 M 2 
 
1 64 PARIS 
 
 belonged to the canons of S. Opportune. Three more of 
 these vast garden spaces, then called courtilks, existed in 
 this neighbourhood, those of the Temple, S. Martin, and S. 
 Boucelais. It is recorded that when the king offended the 
 people in 1306, by altering the value of the coinage, they 
 avenged themselves by tearing up the trees in the Courtille 
 Barbette, as well as by sacking the hotel of the minister, for 
 which twenty-eight men were hanged at the principal gates of 
 Paris. Afterwards the Hotel Barbette became the property 
 of Jean de Montagu, then sovereign-master of France and 
 vidame de Laonois ; and, in 1403, it was bought by the 
 wicked Queen Isabeau de Bavifere, wife of Charles VI., and 
 became her favourite residence, known as ' le petit sdjour 
 de la reine.' 
 
 At the Hotel Barbette, Queen Isabeau was not only 
 freed from the presence of her insane husband, who re- 
 mained at the H6tel S. Paul under the care of a mistress, 
 but could give herself up without restraint to her guilty 
 passion for her brother-in-law, Louis, Due d'Orldans, who, 
 in the words of S. Foix, 'tachoit de ddsennuyer cette 
 princesse k I'hotel Barbette.' Here, also, were decided all 
 those affairs of state with which the queen and her lover 
 played, as the poor king, at the Hotel S. Paul, with his 
 cards, though, whatever his faults, the Due d'Orldans was at 
 this time the only rampart of fallen monarchy, and the 
 only protector of the future king against the rapacity of the 
 Duke of Burgundy. 
 
 It was on Wednesday, November 23, 1407, that the 
 queen had attired herself for the evening in her trailing 
 robes and head-dress ' en comes merveilleuses, hautes et 
 longues enchass&s de pierreries,' to receive the Due 
 
HdTEL BARBETTE 165 
 
 d'Orl^ans, whom Brantome describes as ' ce grand des- 
 baucheur des dames de la cour et des plus grandes.' Whilst 
 they were supping magnificently, one of the royal valets 
 named Schas de Courte Heuse, entered, and announced 
 that the king desired the Duke of Orleans to come to him 
 immediately, as he wanted to speak to him on matters of 
 the utmost importance. A presentiment of evil possessed 
 the queen ; but the duke, ' sans chaperon, aprfes avoir mis 
 sa houppelande de damas noir fourrde,' went out at once, 
 playing with his glove as he went, and mounted his mule, 
 accompanied only by two squires riding on the same horse, 
 by a page called Jacob de Merre, and three running foot- 
 men with torches. But Raoul d'Octouville, formerly head 
 of the finances, who had been dismissed from his post by 
 the duke, was waiting in the shade, accompanied by seven- 
 teen armed men, and instantly rushed upon him, with cries 
 of ' A mort ! k mort ! ' By the first blow of his axe Raoul 
 cut off the hand with which the duke guided his mule, and 
 by another blow cleft open his head. In vain the duke 
 cried out, ' Je suis le due d'Orleans ; ' no one attempted to 
 help him, and he soon tottered and fell. One of his ser- 
 vants flung himself upon his prostrate body to defend it, 
 and was killed upon the spot Then, as Raoul held over 
 his victim a torch which he had snatched from one of the 
 footmen, and exclaimed, ' II est bien mort ! ' it is affirmed 
 that a hooded figure emerged from the neighbouring Hotel 
 Notre-Dame, and cried, 'Extinguish the lights, then, and 
 escape.' On the following day the same figure was recog- 
 nised at the funeral of the Duke of Orleans in his own 
 chapel at the Celestins ; it was his first cousin, the Due de 
 Bourgogne. Only two years later Jean de Montagu, Prime 
 
1 66 PARIS 
 
 Minister and Superintendent of Finances, the former owner 
 of the Hotel Barbette, was beheaded at the Halles, and 
 afterwards hanged, on an accusation of peculation, but in 
 truth for no other reason than because he was the enemy of 
 the Due de Bourgogne. Queen Isabeau left the Hotel 
 Barbette after the murder of her lover, and shut herself up 
 in Vincennes. 
 
 In 152 1 the Hotel Barbette was inhabited by the old 
 Comte de Br^zd, described by Victor Hugo — 
 
 ' Affreux, mal bati, mal tourne, 
 Marqu^ d'une verrue au beau milieu du n^ 
 Borgne, disent les uns, velu, chetif et bleme ; ' 
 
 and it is said that his beautiful wife, Diane de S. Vallier, 
 was leaning against one of the windows of the hotel, when 
 she attracted the attention of Frangois I., riding through the 
 street beneath, and first received from that king a passing 
 adoration which laid the foundation of her fortunes, as 
 queen of beauty, under his successor, Henri II. After the 
 death of Diane in 1566, her daughters, the Duchesses 
 Aumale and Bourbon, sold the Hotel Barbette, which was 
 pulled down, except the fragment which we still see, and 
 which was restored in 1886. 
 
 The Hue des Francs-Bourgeois, formerly called Rue des 
 Vieilles Poulies, takes its name from the charity of Jean and 
 Ahx Roussel in 1350, who built twenty-four chambers here 
 for the poor, and bequeathed them to the Grand Prior of 
 France, on condition that two poor persons were to be 
 lodged in each, at a very small rent, but free from all taxes. 
 The street is full of fine old houses, with stately renaissance 
 doorways, of which we give a specimen taken frorn No. 30. 
 
RUE DES FRANCS-BOURGEOIS 
 
 167 
 
 No. 14 is of the end of the XVI. c. Its brick fagade is 
 framed in stone, with round niches. Its garden and lead 
 fountain existed till lately. It was inhabited at one time by 
 B arras. 
 
 h6tEL in the KUE DES FKANCS-BOUKGEOIS- 
 
 The stately house known as the Hotel de Jeanne 
 d'Albret is of the time of Louis XV. At the angle of the 
 Rue Pav^e, on the right, is the Hotel de Lamoignon, a 
 magnificent historic mansion, begun by Diane de France, 
 legitimatised daughter of Henri II. and Diane de Poitiers. 
 She herself watched the building, and is commemorated m 
 
i68 
 
 PARIS 
 
 the D's and stags' heads amongst the ornaments. Her life 
 here was hke an expiatory offering for that of her mother. 
 ' L'hostel de la Duchesse,' said Mathieu de Morgues, in her 
 funeral oration, in 1612, ' estoit un gyndcde de pudeur.' 
 She bequeathed her h6tel to the Due d'Angouleme, son of 
 Charles IX. and Marie Touchet, half prince and half 
 bandit. 
 
 WINDOW SUPPORT, RUE DES FRANCS-BOURGEOlSt 
 
 ' Quand ses gens lui demandoient leurs gages, il leur disoit : ' ' C'est 
 i vous 4 vous pourvoir ; quatre rues aboutissent a l'hostel d'Angou- 
 lesme ; vous etes en beau lieu, profitez-en si vous voulez. " ' — Tallemant 
 des RSaux. 
 
 The two wings of the house are of the time of the Duke. 
 His arms, which surmounted them, have disappeared 
 from the cornices and pilasters. The wings were con- 
 
h6tel de lamoignon 
 
 169 
 
 structed to accord with the rest of the building : in the 
 north wing is a beautiful balcony. The great engaged 
 pilasters, with Corinthian capitals, rising to the whole 
 height of the building, often copied since, here find their 
 
 ■-""SSgE^Ei.^^,,. 
 
 HOTEL DE LAMOIGNON. 
 
 prototype. The initials remaining over the entrance are 
 those of M. de Lamoignon, though he did not come to the 
 h6tel till long after the date inscribed on the shield : the 
 widow of the Due d'Angouleme lived there long after his 
 death. The square tourelle at the angle overlooks the 
 
170 PARIS 
 
 crossways, where the Due bade his servants to provide for 
 their own subsistence. 
 
 The hotel was bought in 1684, by the President 
 Chr^tien-Frangois de Lamoignon, who gave it his name. 
 The first library of the town of Paris was installed here in 
 1,763, and added to the fame of the hStel till the Revolu- 
 tion, when it was sold. 
 
 The Eue Pavk once contained the Hotels de la Houze, 
 de Gaucher, de Chitillon, d'Herbouville, and de Savoisi. 
 Here also, in the centre of an old aristocratic quarter, stood 
 the hotel of the Due de la Force,' which afterwards became 
 the terrible prison of La Force. It was intended for those 
 in a state of suspicion, and contained five courts, capable of 
 holding twelve hundred captives. During the Great Revo- 
 lution, these included numbers of the inmates of the neigh- 
 bouring hotels. One hundred and Sixty-four innocent 
 victims were massacred here alone. The prison was only 
 destroyed in 185 1. Of all the tragedies connected with it, 
 that which made most impression was the death of the 
 Princesse de Lamballe, the most faithful of the friends ot 
 Marie Antoinette, who, having made good her escape at the 
 time of the flight of the royal family to Vincennes, insisted 
 upon returning to share the misfortunes of her royal mistress. 
 The prisoners in La Force, who included Mme de Tourzel 
 and Mme de S. Brice, also members of the household of 
 Marie Antoinette, were tried by a self-instituted tribunal, 
 composed from the dregs of Paris. When Mme de Lam- 
 balle was dragged before them, surrounded by men whose 
 
 ^ The original hotel, called du Rot de Sicile was built by Charles d'Anjou, 
 brother of S. Louis. It was often rebuilt, and, in i62r, was called HStel de Roque- 
 laure after its sale to Antoine de Roquelaure in the XVI. c, and Hdtel de S. Paul 
 after its sale to the Comte de S. Paul in the XVII. c. 
 
PRISON OF LA FCRCE 17 v 
 
 faces, hands, clothes, and weapons were covered with blood, 
 and heard the cries of the unfortunates who were being 
 murdered in the street, she fainted away. After she was 
 restored by the care of her lady-in-waiting, who had followed 
 her, the so-called judges demanded if she was cognisant ot 
 the plots of the tenth of August. ' I do not even know if 
 there were any plots,' she replied. ' Swear liberty, equality, 
 hatred of the king, the queen, and royalty.' ' I can easily 
 swear the two first,' she answered. 'I cannot swear the 
 last ; it is not in my heart' ' Swear, or you are lost ! ' 
 whispered one of the assistants. The Princess did not 
 answer, lifted her hands, covered her face, and made a step 
 towards the entrance. The formula, ' Madame is at liberty,' 
 which meant certain death, was pronounced ; two men seized 
 her by the arms and dragged her forward. She had scarcely 
 passed the threshold before she received a blow from a sabre 
 at the back of her head. The monsters who held her then 
 tried to force her to walk in the blood and over the corpses of 
 others, to the spot marked out for her own fate, but, 
 happily, her bodily powers again failed, and she sank un- 
 conscious. She was immediately despatched by blows from 
 pikes, her clothes were torn off, and her body was exposed 
 for more than two hours to the horrible insults of the people. 
 Then her heart was torn out, and her head cut off, an un- 
 happy hairdresser was compelled to curl and powder its 
 long hair, and finally head and heart, preceded by fifes and 
 drums, were carried at the end of pikes, first to the Abbaye, 
 to be exhibited to the intimate friend of the Princess, Mme 
 de Beauveau, then to the Temple to be shown to the 
 Queen ! ' 
 
 * Bertrand de Moleville, M^jnoires, 
 
172 PARIS 
 
 ' Les assassins yenus pour I'egorger firent d'inutiles efforts pour lui 
 faire repeter les outrages dont ils couvrirent le nom sacr^ de la reine — 
 " Non, non," r^pondit-elle, "jamais ! jamais ! plut&t mourir !" En- 
 traln^e par ses bourreaux auprfes de cat amas de cadavres on la for9a de 
 s'agenouiller, et apr^s I'avoir frapp^e de plusieurs coups de sabre, on 
 lui d^chira le sein, on lui arracha le coeur, on lui coupa la tete, on lui 
 rougit les joues avec du sang ; on forfa un malheureux coiffeur h, 
 friser et poudrer ses longs cheveux blonds qu'elles avail eus les plus 
 beaux du monde ; et puis ces cannibales s'e form^rent en affreux 
 cortege, pr^ced^ par des fifres et des tambours ; ils portaient la tete sur 
 une pique et furent la faire voir au Due d'Orl^ans qui se montra sur 
 un balcon de son Palais-Royal k c6t^ de Mme AgnH de Buffon. . . . ' 
 Souvenirs de la Marquise de Criqui, 
 
 At the corner of the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois and the 
 Rue de Sdvign^, formerly Rue Culture S. Catherine, stands 
 the {a.moMS Jlofe J Carnavalet, built 1544, for the President 
 de Ligneris, from designs of Pierre Lescot and De Bullant, 
 and sold in 1578 to Frangoise de la Baume, dame de 
 Kernevenoy, a Breton name which has remained attached 
 to the hotel in its softened form of Carnavalet. Under her 
 son, Du Cerceau built the left wing of the court, and figures 
 of the Four Elements, in the style of Jean Goujon, were 
 added from his designs. In 1664, M. de Carnavalet, 
 lieutenant of the guard, sold the hotel to M. d'Agaurri, a 
 magistrate of Dauphind, for whom Van Obstal added the 
 reliefs of the outer walls, and the figures of Force and Vigi- 
 lance on the fagade. Mansart was employed to restore the 
 whole building, but the great master wisely forbore much 
 to alter what he considered an architectural masterpiece. 
 He added a row of his mansardes towards the garden, 
 and some Ionic pilasters to the inner fa9ade of the court, 
 but refused to touch the outer front. Being kept away 
 from Paris by his duties in Dauphind, M. d'Agaurri let the 
 
\ HdTEL CARNAVALET 173 
 
 hotel he had restored at so much expense— first, in 1677, to 
 Mme de Lillebonne, who ceded it in a few months to Mme 
 de Sdvign^, who found 'La Carnavalette,' exactly to her 
 fancy. 
 
 It is to having been the residence of the famous Mar- 
 quise de S^vignd from 1677 to 1698, that the hotel owes its 
 
 h6tEL CARNAVALET. 
 
 celebrity. On October 7, 1677, she = was able to write, 
 ' Dieu merci, nous avons Thotel Carnavalet. C'est une affaire 
 admirable, nous y tiendrons tous, et jious aurons le bel 
 air.' She was delighted with the neighbourhood of the 
 Annonciades, whom she called ' les bonnes petites filles 
 bleues,' in whose chapel she could hear mass. But she was 
 long in installing herself, all her friends had their mais. 
 
174 . PARIS . 
 
 their si, their car, and her daughter's discontented tempera- 
 ment always found something to find fault with in the fire- 
 place of the tim^ of Henri II., old-fashioned by a century, 
 the antiquated distribution of the rooms, the insufficient 
 parquet, &c. Thus it took two years before Mme de Sdvignd 
 was settled in the hotel. 'Nous voilk done arr^t^s k 
 I'hotel Carnavalet, nous ne pouvions mieux faire,' she wrote 
 on October i8, 1679, and henceforward the society of the 
 H6tel Carnavalet, which may be said to have brought about 
 the renaissance of the French language, became typical of 
 all that was most refined and intellectual in France, uniting 
 many of those familiar to us from the portraits of Lebrun 
 and Hyacinthe Rigaud. It was hence, too, that many of 
 the famous letters were written by the adoring mother to 
 the absent daughter, after her marriage with the Marquis de 
 Grignan, mingled with complaints that she could not let 
 her daughter's unoccupied room — 'ce logis qui m'a fait tant 
 songer k vous ; ce logis que tout le monde vient voir, que 
 tout le monde admire ; et que personne ne veut louer.' 
 
 * Mme de S^vigne ne le quitta plus : elle en fut I'ame, et elle en 
 reste la gloire. Sur tout ce qui vint ensuite, son nom plane avec un 
 eclat qui ne permet plus de rien regarder : " Le malheur de ne la plus 
 avoir m'est toujours nouveau," ecrivait Madame de Coulanges un an 
 aprfes sa mort ; " il manque trop de choses k I'hfitel Carnavalet." Depuis, 
 tout y a manque de m^me, quels que fussent les personnes ou les per- 
 sonnages qu'on y ait vus passer. Brunei de Rancy n'y apporta, deux 
 ans apres elle, que son importance de fermier-general, avec son or 
 retentissant, qui son'nait moins haul que I'esprit disparu. Plus tard 
 vinrent les charlatans de la transfusion du sang, puis le hasard voulut 
 qu'on mit le d^pSt de la librairie oil la marquise avait fait le plus char- 
 jnant des livres, en ne croyant ecrire que des lettres. L'ecole des 
 Fonts et Chauss^es s'y itablit ensuite, comme pour y niveler tout ce 
 qu'il pouvait rester d'esprit. Par bonheur, un savant spirituel, 
 ,M. de Prony, la dirigeait, et le salon de Mme de S^vigne put croire que 
 
HOTEL CARNAVALET 175 
 
 la gi^om^trie n'etait pas dans la maison. Les derniers hfites'furent un 
 maStre de pension et ses il^ves.' — Edouard Foumier, 'Paris Guide.' 
 
 The main building of the h6tel is flanked by two 
 pavilions. The lions which adorn its fagade are from the 
 hand of Jean Goujon, as well as the tympanums and the 
 winged figure on the keystone of the gateway. In the court, 
 the building facing the entrance is adorned with statues of 
 the Four Seasons from the school of Jean Goujon ; the 
 central group, of Fame and her messengers, is by the great 
 artist himself. 
 
 ' La porte est largement cintr^e et surmontee d'une femme legere, 
 a la robe flottante et diaphane comme les naiades de Jean Goujon, 
 elegante, riante et svelte comme tout ses figures, debout sur un seul 
 pied, et ce pied appuye sur un joli masque. Au-dessous du masque, 
 qui faisait partie, je le suppose, des armes parlantes des Carnavalet, est 
 un ^cusson mutil^ par le marteau, oil se trouvaient sans doute les 
 armoiries noires et blanches de Sevigne, et les quatre croix des Rabutin 
 dont le comte de Bussy ^tait si fier. Des lions, des victoires, des 
 boucliers remains et des renomm^es s'etendent en longs bas-reliefs de 
 chaque cote de la porte, qu'un artiste de mauvais gout, du temps de 
 Louis XIV., a travaillee en rocailles, en bossages vermicules, ainsi que 
 disent les architectes en termes non moins barbares que la chose.' — 
 A. Loive- Veimars. 
 
 Mme de Sdvignd and her daughter, when at Paris, 
 inhabited the first floor of the main building, reached by 
 the stone staircase which still exists, and her chamber is 
 still pointed out. M. de Grignan, on his brief visits to Paris, 
 occupied the ground-floor rooms below. The young Mar- 
 quis de S^vignd had the apartment towards the street ; and 
 the Abbd de Coulanges, uncle of the Marquise, the right 
 wing towards the court. The left wing contained the prin- 
 cipal reception-rooms. 
 
 The hotel is now occupied as the Musk Municipal, 
 
176 PARIS 
 
 chiefly devoted to memorials of the Great Revolution (open 
 from 11 to i, on Thursdays and Sundays), and a Library of 
 Books on the History of Paris {open from lo fo 4 daily). 
 
 On the ground floor are remains of Roman tombs found at Paris, 
 and fragments of the early basilica which preceded Notre Dame. At 
 the top of the stairs we should notice remains of the prison doors of 
 the Conciergerie from the cells of Mme Roland and Robespierre, and 
 also the door of a cell in the Hdtel des Haricots (the prison of the 
 National Guard), decorated by the prisoners. 
 
 In the Grande Salle is a model of the Bastille, and the banner of the 
 Emigration ; in a glass case (on the side of the entrance) are Jacobin 
 caps. Amongst the pictures is one of Robespierre at twenty-four — a 
 family portrait, painted at Arras by Boilly in 1783. In the second 
 window is an official notice of the execution of Louis XVI. On the 
 side of the armoire is a sketch of Marie Antoinette taken in the 
 Conciergerie by Prieur. 
 
 Amongst the china in the Gallery is the famous ' tasse de la 
 guillotine. ' In the middle of the second gallery is a bust of Bailly, 
 given by his daughter, and one of the official busts of Marat, erected 
 in all the halls of sections in Paris, after his assassination. 
 
 In the Salon central, the carved panelling comes from the Hotel 
 des Stuarts, in the Rue S. Hyacinthe. Here is the arm-chair in which 
 Voltaire died, from his chamber in the Pldtel de Villette, Rue de 
 Beaune. 
 
 The decorations of the Salon des Tableaux were those of the salle- 
 a-manger in the Hotel de Dangeau, in the Place Royale. 
 
 The garden (which will be entered by an arch transported from the 
 Rue de Nazareth) contains a number of historic relics — statues 
 from Anet ; a statue of Abundance from the Marche S. Germain ; 
 a relief by Auguier from the Porte S. Autoine ; the old Fontaine 
 S. Michel; a ratable from a chapel at S. Mery, 1542, by Pierre 
 Berton de S. Quentin, &c. 
 
 The name of Rue Culture or Couture S. Catherine, now 
 changed to Rue de Sevignd, was all that remained of the 
 convent and church of S. Catherine du Val des Ecoliers, 
 which was a thanksgiving for the victory of Bovines,^ the 
 
 * The fine tomb of Mme de Birague, now in the Louvre, came from this church, 
 destroyed at the Revolution. 
 
RUE DE TURENNE 177 
 
 street having been built on cultivated land belonging to the 
 convent. In this street, at the corner near the H6tel Car- 
 navalet, lived the beautiful Jewess of whom the Due 
 d'Orl^ans was enamoured, and at whose door the Con- 
 netable Olivier de Clisson was attacked by assassins, hired 
 by the Baron de Craon, and left for dead, though he 
 eventually recovered. 
 
 ' Ev&ement fameux, si curieusement contepar nos historiens, qu'il 
 semble qu'on y assiste. On le voit passer, par une nuit sombre, ce 
 grand connetable, arme seulement d'un petit coutelas, et longeant au 
 trot de son bon cheval cette etroite rue deserte. On est cach^ avec les 
 assassins sous I'auvent du boulanger, oil ils I'attendirent ; on entend le 
 bruit de la lourde chute du cheval perc^ de trois grands coups 
 d'estramapon, le bruit de la chute du connetable, dontla tSte vafrapper 
 centre une porte qu'elle fait ouvrir ; ses plaintes, ses gemissements, les 
 pas des assassins qui s'enfiiient, puis le silence. Puis les cris des 
 bourgeois accourant avec des flambeaux, pieds nus, sans chaperon, et 
 le roi qu'on a r^veill^ comme il allait se mettre en sa couche, i qui on 
 a annonce la mort de son bon connetable, et qui se couvre d'une 
 houppelande, se fait bouter ses souliers is pieds, et accourt i I'endroit 
 oil on disait que son bon connetable venatt d'etre occis.' — A. Loeve- 
 Veimars. 
 
 (The Hue du Rot de Sidle, which turns to the right from 
 the Rue de Sdvignd close to the Rue de Rivoli, com- 
 memorates Charles d'Anjou, brother of S. Louis.) 
 
 The next turn from the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois on 
 the left is the -Rue de Turenne, formerly S. Louis aux Marais, 
 which takes its present name from the hotel of the famous 
 marshal, turned into a monastery in 1684, and destroyed 
 during the Revolution. The hotel occupied the site of the 
 Church of S. Denis du Sacrement. The poet Cr^billon lived 
 next door. The chancellor Boucherat resided, at the end of 
 the XVII c, at No. 40, afterwards the Hotel d'Ecquevilly. 
 
 N 
 
178 PARIS 
 
 It was in the Rue S. Louis that Mme de Maintenon lived 
 with her first husband, the poet Scarron, and made his little 
 dinners so entertaining that their simple servant would 
 whisper in her ear, ' Madame, encore une histoire, nous 
 n'avons pas le roti.' Such was her poverty before her 
 marriage that she was obliged to borrow the dress she was 
 married in from her friend Mile de Pons, who afterwards, 
 as Mme d'Heudicourt, had an apartment at Versailles. 
 
 From the Rue Turenne opens on the right the Jiue des 
 Mintmes, which formerly contained the splendid Hotel de 
 Vitry, and which took its name from the Minimi of the 
 Capuchin Convent. Its church, celebrated for the sermons 
 of Bourdaloue, contained magnificent tombs of the families 
 of Colbert, Villarcerf, Vidville, Perigny, Le Jay, and Castille. 
 In one chapel were those of two royal bastards — Diane, 
 Duchesse d'Angouleme, daughter of Henri II., and Charles, 
 Due d'Angouleme, famous for his conspiracies against 
 Henri IV. All these tombs were destroyed or dispersed at 
 the Revolution. 
 
 ' A deux portes de li, une maison de courtisane s'ouvrit au petit 
 jour, et un homme en sortit le manteau sur le nez, et tirant le long des 
 murailles. La maison etait bien connue ; c'^tait celle de la belle 
 Romaine, la fille de joie la plus renomm^e du temp.s de Henri II. : 
 rhomme, bien connu aussi ; il se nommait Charles ' de Lorraine, due 
 de Guise, cardinal, archevSque, I'homme le plus hatdi, le plus floquent 
 et le plus vicieux de son temps. Sa compagnie des gardes, qui ne le 
 quittait jamais, mSme k I'autel, ou elle melait I'odeui de la poudre i 
 canon et de la mtehe au parfam de I'encens, ^tait di.ipensee de le 
 suivre en semblables lieux. II s'en trouva mal, car il eut toutes les 
 peines du monde 4 ^chapper aux rufiens qui I'attendaient, et k gagner son 
 bel hStelde Cluny gard6 par trois cent halebardes. ' — A. Loive-Veimars. 
 
 Higher up, the Rue de Normandie falls, on the left, into 
 the Rue de Turenne. 
 
PLACE DBS VOSGES 179 
 
 ' La rue de Normandie est une de ces rues au milieu desquelles 
 ou peut se croire en province : I'herbe y fleurit, un passant y fait 
 evenenient ; et tout le monde s'y connait. Les maisons datent de 
 I'epoque oh., sous Henri IV. , on entreprit un quartier dont cliaque rue 
 portat le nom d'une province, et au centre duquel devait se trouver une 
 belle place dedifc a la France. L'idee du quartier de I'Europe fut la 
 repetition de ce plan. Le monde se repute en toute chose partout, 
 meme en sp&ulation. ' — Balzac, ' Les parents pauvres. ' 
 
 On the right the Rne S. Claude connects the Rue de 
 Turenne with the Boulevard. Here Cagliostro Hved, in the 
 house of the Marquis d'Orville. 
 
 The Rue des Francs-Bourgeois nowJeads into the Place 
 des Vosges, which may be regarded as the heart of the 
 Marais. Imagined by Sully, carried out by Henri IV., in 
 its early existence as the Place Royale,~this was one of the 
 most celebrated squares in Europe. 
 
 'Grands edifices en briques et enpierres, decores de panneaux, de 
 bossages et de fenetres \ frontons. C'est bien li le style de I'anclenne 
 architecture franyaise, qui suivit la renaissance et pr^ceda I'ere mcderne ; 
 nous la voyons avec son appareil bicolore, ses pilastres, ses refends, 
 ses grands combles d'ardoises que surmontent des ^pis de plorab 
 fagonn^s en ornements divers. On a vant^ avec raison la disposition 
 judicieuse de la place Royale ; au pourtour, de vastes galeries reservees 
 aux gens de pied ; puis, quatre larges chaussees pour les cavaliers et 
 les voitures ; au centre, un jardin proteg^ par une grille de fer.' — 
 Guilhermy, ' Itiniraire archiologique. ' 
 
 The site had been previously occupied by the palace 
 called Hotel des Tournelles, a name derived from the end- 
 less turrets with which its architect had loaded it, either for 
 ornament or defence. Pierre d'Orgemont, chancellor of 
 France, built the first stately house here in 1380, and be- 
 queathed it to his son, who was bishop of Paris. The 
 bishop sold it, in 1402, to Jean, Due de Berry, one of the 
 uncles of Charles VI., from whom it passed to. his nephew, 
 
i8o PARIS 
 
 the Due d'0rl6ans, and from him to the king. In its 
 original state, the hotel stood like a country house in 
 a wood called the Pare des Tournelles, which has left 
 a name to the Rue du Parc-Royal. ' En cat hostel,' says 
 Dubreul in his Th'eatre des Antiquilez de Paris, ' s'allaient 
 r€cx€e.T souventefois nos Roys, pour la beauts et commodity 
 dudit lieu.' L6on de Lusignan, king of Armenia, died here 
 in 1393. The Duke of Bedford, regent of France after the 
 death of Henry V., lived in the H6tel des Tournelles, and 
 kept flocks of peacocks and multitudes of rarer birds in its 
 gardens. There also he established the royal library of the 
 Louvre (of which he had become the possessor, and which 
 he afterwards carried to England), and there he lost his 
 beautiful wife, Anne de Bourgogne, buried close by, in 
 the C^lestins, under an exquisite monument. Whenever 
 Louis XL visited Paris, the hotel was his residence, and it 
 was there that, in 1467, he received his queen, Margaret of 
 Scotland. In his later life, however, Louis XL only cared 
 to live in Touraine, where he died at Plessis les Tours, and 
 his son, Charles VIIL, made his home exclusively at Blois, 
 of which he had watched the building. But Louis XII. 
 ' always liked the Hotel des Tournelles, where he spent his 
 happiest days with his beloved Anne of Brittany. Thither 
 he returned after his third marriage with Mary, of England, 
 the young wife who so entirely upset all his old-fashioned 
 ways — forcing him to dine at 12, instead of 8 o'clock a.m., 
 and to go to bed at midnight, instead of at 6 p.m. — that she 
 caused his death in a few months. He expired on January 
 2, 1515, at the Hotel des Tournelles, where the crieurs 
 du corps rang their bells round the building in which the dead 
 king lay, and cried lamentably, ' Le bon roi Louis, pfere du 
 
HOTEL DES TOURNELLES i8i 
 
 peuple, est mort ! ' The two successors of Louis, Frangois I. 
 and Henri II., were so occupied with the building of their 
 country chateaux at Fontainebleau, Compifegne, Ram- 
 bouillet, S. Germain, Chambord, &c., that they only came 
 to the Hotel des Tournelles for the tournaments, which in 
 earlier days had taken place in the grounds of the Hotel 
 de S. Paul, but were now transferred to the Rue S. Antoine. 
 It was in a tournament of this kind, held in honour of the 
 marriage of Elizabeth of France with Phihppe II. of Spain, 
 that Henri (June 28, 1559), bearing the colours of Diane 
 des Poitiers, in tilting with the Corrite de Montgomery, 
 captain of the body-guard, received a wound in the eye, of 
 which, ten days after, he died in great agony, in the old 
 palace, through which the people of Paris poured for many 
 days, to visit his body, lying in a chapdle ardente. 
 
 After this catastrophe the kings of France abandoned 
 what they considered the ill-omened Hotel des Tournelles. 
 The insistence of Catherine de Medicis, widow of Henry II., 
 even procured an order for the destruction of the hotel, but 
 it was only carried out as regarded that part of the building 
 where the king had died, and a fragment of the palace was 
 still existing in 1656, when it was sold to the Filles de 
 Sainte-Croix. In 1578 a horse-market occupied part of the 
 grounds of the hotel, and it was there that the famous 
 Combat des Mignons took place, and was fatal to several of 
 the unpopular favourites of Henry III. 
 
 Henri IV. had used the last existing remains of the 
 palace to hold two hundred Italian workmen, whom he had 
 brought from their own country in the beginning of the 
 seventeenth century that they might establish the manu- 
 facture of stuffs woven with gold and silver tissue in France. 
 
1 82 PARIS 
 
 At that time Henri had already formed the idea of making 
 the Marais the handsomest quarter of Paris. The plans 
 adopted for the Place Royale were those furnished by the 
 austere Huguenot, Antoine du Cerceau. The king built 
 the side towards the Hotel de Sully (in the Rue S. Antoine) 
 entirely at his own expense, and then conceded plots of land 
 on the other sides to his courtiers, on condition of their 
 erecting houses at once, according to the designs they re- 
 ceived, each landowner only being required to pay an annual 
 tax of a golden crown, so that only thirty-six gold crowns 
 were received for the thirty-six pavilions surrounding the 
 square. 
 
 At the same time the king opened the four streets 
 leading to the square : the Rue du Pare- Royal, the Petite 
 Rue Royale, afterwards called the Pas-de-la-Mule, and the 
 Rue de la Coulture S. Catherine, and he erected the two 
 central pavilions on the south and north, which were called 
 respectively Pavilion du Roi and Pavilion de la Reine. 
 Every day, whilst he was at Paris, Henri IV. came himself 
 to visit and stimulate the workmen, and when he was at 
 Fontainebleau he wrote constantly to' Sully to beg him to 
 urge them on. ' Je vous recommande la Place Royale,' he 
 would add to his letters on other subjects. Coming one 
 day to look at the work, he was mortified to find that one of 
 the private individuals to whom he had allotted a site was 
 vaulting in stone the portico under his house, which the king 
 in his own building had only ceiled with wood. Mortified 
 to be outdone by a subject, he consulted his mason, who 
 cleverly propitiated the royal pride by promising to imitate 
 the superior work in plaster so well that no one would find 
 out the difference. Henri declared that as soon as it was 
 
PLACE DES VOSCES, 183 
 
 ready for him he should come and inhabit the Pavilion du 
 Roi ; but the square was unfinished at the time of his death 
 in 1610, and it was only opened with great magnificence five 
 years later, on the occasion of the marriage of Elizabeth, 
 sister of Louis XIII., with the Infant of Spain. It was the 
 splendid court f6te then, given which made the new square 
 become at once the fashion, and the Place Royale remained 
 the centre of all that was most aristocratic till the financial 
 world invaded it at the end of the seventeenth century. In 
 the proudest time of the square, however, the celebrated 
 Marion de Lorme inhabited the pavilion which had been 
 purchased by the Due de la Meilleraie, and there she died 
 in 1650, and, in the words of Tallemant des R&ux, 'On la 
 vit morte, durant vingt-quatre heures, sur son lit, avec une 
 couromie de pucelle.' 
 
 With the comparative lawlessness of the times, though 
 Louis XIII. had issued severe ordinances for. the repression 
 of duelling, not only were duels of frequent occurrence in 
 the Place Royale, but the balconies and windows of the 
 square used to be filled with spectators to witness them, like 
 a theatrical representation in broad daylight. Six of the 
 noblest young gentlemen of the Court fought thus, with fatal 
 results, on May 12, 1627. The last duel in the Place Royale 
 was that of the Due de Guise and the Comte de Coligny, in 
 December 1643, to decide the hereditary quarrels of their 
 two houses, which ended fatally for the latter. As a warning 
 and a menace to duellists, Richelieu erected, in the centre 
 of the square, a statue by Biard fils of Louis XIII. — 'le 
 trfes-grand, trfes-invincible, Louis le Juste,' ' armed after the 
 mode of his age, and his plume of feathers on his head- 
 piece,' as the traveller Lister described it (1698). The 
 
1 84 PARIS 
 
 figure was. placed upon a horse had which been unemployed 
 for three quarters of a century, but was the work of 
 Daniele Ricciarelli da Volteira. This famous statue, which 
 stood on a pedestal with proud inscriptions by the cardinal 
 in honour of his master, was melted down for cannon in 
 the Revolution of 1793. In 1701 a magnificent iron grille, 
 bearing the emblems of Louis XIV., had been placed around 
 the gardens. Even the Revolution itself respected its 
 beauty; but, in spite of the eloquent remonstrances of 
 Victor Hugo (who was then living at No. 6, the house 
 where Marion de Lorme died), it was removed in the reign 
 of Louis Philippe to make way for a cast-iron railing in the 
 commonplace taste of the time. 
 
 ' Que d'^vinements publics et domestiques n'a pas vus cette place 
 pendant tout le dix-septiteie si^cle ! Que de nobles tournois, que de 
 fiers duels, que d'aimables rendez-vous ! Quels d'entretiens n'a-t-elle 
 pas entendus, dignes de ceux du Dicameran, que Corneille a recueillis 
 dans une de ses premieres comedies, la Place Royale, et dans plusieurs 
 actes du Menteur ! Que de gracieuses creatures ont habit6 ces 
 pavilions ! Quels somptueux ameublements, que de tresors de luxe 
 ^l^gant n'avaient-elles pas rassembl^s ? Que d'illustres personnages 
 de tons genres avaient monti ces beaux escaliers ! Richelieu et Conde, 
 Corneille et Moliere ont cent fois passe par la. C'est en se promenant 
 sous cette galerie que Descartes, causant avec Pascal, lui a sugg^r^ 
 I'idee de ses belles experiences sur la pesanteur de I'air : c'est la aussi 
 qu'un soir, en sortant de chez Mine de Guim&^e, le melancolique de 
 Thou refut de Cinq-Mars I'involontaire confidence de la conspiration 
 que devait mener tons deux a I'echafaud ; c'est li, enfin, que naquit 
 Mme de Sevigne, et c'est k cot^ qu'elle habitait.' — Victor Cousin, 
 ' La jeunesse de Mme de Longueville.' 
 
 Many of the hotels of the Place Royale were like 
 museums of historic relics and works of art, especially that 
 of Richelieu and that of the Marquis de Dangeau. The 
 
PLACE DES VOSGES 
 
 185 
 
 ceilings of the hStel of M. da Nouveau were painted by 
 Lebrun and Mignard. Houses were furnished with the 
 utmost magnificence by the Comte de Tresmes, the Marquis 
 de Breteuil, and the Marquis de Canillac; but most of 
 these hotels were already abandoned by their aristocratic 
 owners at the time of the Revolution, when the Comte de 
 Favras, who had only lately settled in the Place Royale, was 
 accused of plotting against the Government, and hanged like 
 
 PLACE DES VOSGES. 
 
 a common malefactor. Many think that the golden period 
 of the Place did not arrive till it became the centre of the 
 Society of the NouveUes Frecieuses (deserters from the 
 superior literary atmosphere of the Hotel de Rambouillet), 
 which Molifere satirises in his comedy of the Frecieuses 
 ridicules. One of the leaders of this society was Mile de 
 Scud^ry, authoress of the long allegorical romance of Cyrus, 
 
1 86 PARIS 
 
 who came to settle in the Rue de Beauce, and whose Satur- 
 days soon became the fashion, ' pour rencontrer des beaux 
 esprits.' For thirty years, under the name of Sapho, she 
 ruled as a queen in the second-class literary salons of the 
 Marais, which was known as L^olie or I'Eolie in the 
 dialect of the Prkieuses, when the Place JDorique, as they 
 called the Place Royale, was inhabited by Artemise or MUe 
 Aragonois, Roxane or MUe Robineau, Glicerie or the beau- 
 tiful Mile Legendre ; whilst Le grand Dictionnaire des 
 Prkieuses (1661) informs us that CrisoUs or MUe de 
 Chavigny, and Nidalie or Mile de I'Enclos, lived close by. 
 Molifere had full opportunity of studying the eccentricities 
 of this society whilst living in the quarter of the Arsenal 
 in 1645. 
 
 ' Nos heros et nos heroines ne s'attacherent qu'aux madrigaux. 
 Jamais il n'en fat tant fait, ni si promptement. A peine celui-ci venoit- 
 il d'en prononcer un, que celui-la en sentoit un autre qui lui fourmilloit 
 dans la tete. Ici, on recitoit quatre vers ; la, on en ecrivoit douze. 
 Tout s'y faisoit gaiement et sans grimace. Personne n'en rognoit ses 
 ongles et n'en perdoit le rire et le parler.' — PeUisson, ^ Chroniques 
 du Satnedi.^ 
 
 The Place Royale, with its high-roofed houses of red 
 brick coped with stone, surmounted by high roofs, and 
 supported by arcades — the famous arcades where Corneille 
 places the scene of one of his comedies^has never changed 
 its ancient aspect. No. 21 was the house of Richelieu. 
 In No. 9, which she had furnished splendidly, the great 
 comedienne, Mme Rachel, lay in state. A statue of 
 Charles X. by Carot, on a horse by JDupaty, now takes the 
 place of the statue of Louis XIII. in the centre of the 
 square — an excellent example of the most deplorable 
 statuary. Many of the old contemporary hotels which 
 
RUE DBS TOURNELLES 187 
 
 occupied the precincts of the Place have been destroyed. 
 Nothing remains of the Hotel Nicolai, at the entrance of 
 the Rue de Turenne, or of the Hotel de S. Gdran, in the 
 Rue du Parc-Royal. The Hotel de Gu^mdnde can no 
 longer be distinguished from an ordinary house. 
 
 Running east from the upper side of the square is the 
 Rue des Vosges, till recently Rue Pas-de-la-Mule. Here 
 Gilles le Maistre, first president of the Parliament of Paris, 
 was daily seen passing on his mule, followed by his wife in 
 a cart, and a servant on an ass. 
 
 On the further side of the Rue des Tournelles (which 
 
 runs behind the houses on the east side of the Place des 
 
 Vosges) we may still visit (No. 28) the handsome Hotel of 
 
 Ninon de FEndos — I'Eternelle Ninon — the friend of S. 
 
 Evremond and the Duchesse de Mazarin, at whose beautiful 
 
 feet three generations of the proud house, of Sdvignd knelt 
 
 in turn, and who may be regarded as the last of the Frecieuses 
 
 of the Marais and Place Royale. The vestibule of the hotel 
 
 retains its masks and caryatides ; the boudoir its painted 
 
 ceiling ; the staircase has only changed its stone balustrade 
 
 for one of wood, and a well-preserved medallion of 
 
 Louis XIV. remains in its place ; the salon on the first floor 
 
 has a ceiling-painting of Apollo surrounded by the nine 
 
 muses, by a pupil of Lebrun. 
 
 ' Ninon, courtisane fameuse, et depuis que I'age lui eut fait quitter 
 le metier, connue sous le nom de Mile de I'Enclos, fut un exemple 
 nouveau du triomphe du vice conduit avec esprit, et repare de quelques 
 vertus. La bruit qu'elle fit, et plus encore le d&ordre qu'elle causa 
 parmi la plus haute et la plus brillante jeunesse, for5a I'extrSme 
 indulgence que, non sans cause, la reine-rafere avait pour les personnes 
 galantes et plus que galantes, de lui envoyer un ordre de se retirer dans 
 un couvent. Un de ces exempts de Paris lui porta la lettre de cachet, 
 ella la lut, et remarquant qu'il n'y avait pas de couvent designe en 
 
i88 PARIS 
 
 particulier ; "Monsieur," dit-elle a I'exempt, sans se ddconcerter, "puisque 
 la reine a tant de bont^ pour moique de me laisser le choix du couvent 
 oil elle veut que je me retire, je vous prie de lui dire que je choisis celui 
 des grands cordeliers de Paris ; " et lui rendit la lettre de cachet avec une 
 belle reverence. L'exempt, stupefait de cette effronterie sans pareille, 
 n'eut pas un mot a repliquer, et la reine la trouva si plaisante qu'elle 
 la laissa en repos. 
 
 ' Ninon eut des amis iilustres de toutes les sortes, et eut tant d'esprit 
 qu'elle les conserva tous, et qu'elle les tint unis entre eux, ou pour le 
 moins sans le moindre bruit. Tout se passait chez elle avec un respect 
 et une decence ext&ieure que les plus hautes princesses soutiennent 
 rarement avec des faiblesses. Elle eut de la sorte pour amis tout ce 
 qu'il y avait de plus trie et de plus elev^ k la cour, tellement qu'il 
 devint i la mode d'etre regu chez elle, et qu'on avait raison de le desirer 
 par les liaisons qui s'y formaient. Jamais ni jeu, ni ris elev^s, ni 
 disputes, ni propos de religion ou de gouvernement ; beaucoup d'esprit 
 et fort orn6, des nouvelles anciennes et modernes, des nouvelles de 
 galcnteries, et toutefois sans ouvrir la porte i la medisance ; tout y 
 etait delicat, l^ger, mesure, et formait les conversations qu'elle sut 
 soutenir par son esprit, et par tout ce qu'elle savait de faits de tout ige. 
 La consideration, chose etrange, qu'elle s'etait acquise, le nombre et 
 la distinction de ses amis et de ses connaissances continu^rent k lui 
 attirer du nionde quand les charmes eurent cesse, et quand la bien- 
 s^ance et la mode lui defendirent de plus meler le corps avec I'esprit. 
 Elle savait toutes les intrigues de I'ancienne et de la nouvelle cour, 
 serieuses et autres ; sa conversation etait charmante ; disint^ress^e, 
 fidye, secrete, sfire au dernier point, et a la faiblesse pris, on pouvait 
 dire qu'elle etait vertueuse et pleine de pro bite. ' — S. Simon, 
 
 ' L'indulgence et sage nature 
 A form^ I'ame de Ninon, 
 De la volupte d 'Epicure 
 
 Et de la vertu de Caton. ' — S, Evremond. 
 
 (From hence the Boulevard Beaumarchais, remarkable 
 for its antiquity shops, and the Boulevard des Miles du 
 Calvaire, named from a monastery founded 1633 by Pfere 
 Joseph, the friend of Richelieu, and suppressed 1790, run 
 north- west to join the Boulevard du Temple.) 
 
PLACE DE LA BASTILLE 189 
 
 The south end of the Rue des Tournelles falls into the 
 Place de la Bastille, containing La Colonne de Juillet, sur- 
 mounted by a statue of Liberty, and erected 1 831-1840. 
 This marks the site of the famous castle-prison of the Bas- 
 tille, which for four centuries and a half terrified Paris, and 
 which has left a name to the quarter it frowned upon. 
 Hugues Aubriot, Mayor of Paris, built it under Charles V. 
 to defend the suburb which contained the royal palace of 
 S. Paul. Unpopular from the excess of his devotion to his 
 royal master, Aubriot was the first prisoner in his own prison. 
 Perhaps the most celebrated of the long list of after captives 
 were the Conn^table de S. Pol and Jacques d'Armagnac, 
 Due de Nemours, taken thence for execution to the Place 
 de Grfeve under Louis XI. ; Charles de Gontaut, Due de 
 Biron, executed within the walls of the fortress under Henri 
 IV. ; and the ' Man with the Iron Mask,' brought hither 
 mysteriously, September 18, 1698, and who died in the 
 Bastille, November 19, 1703. 
 
 A thousand engravings show us the Bastille as it was — 
 as z. fort-bastide — built on the line of the city walls just to 
 the south of the Porte S. Antoine, surrounded by its own 
 moat. It consisted of eight round towers, each bearing a 
 characteristic name, connected by massive walls, ten feet 
 thick, pierced with narrow slits by which the cells were 
 lighted. In early times it had entrances on three sides, but 
 after 1580 only one, with a drawbridge over the moat on 
 the side towards the river, which led to outer courts and a 
 second drawbridge, and wound by a defended passage to 
 an outer entrance opposite the Rue des Tournelles.' 
 
 Close beside the Bastille, to the north, rose the Porte S. 
 
 * See the plans and views in Paris a. trovers Us Asces, 
 
190 PARIS 
 
 Antoine, approached over the city fosse by its own bridge, at 
 the outer end of which was a triumphal arch built on the 
 return of Henri III. from Poland in 1573. Both gate and 
 arch were restored for the triumphal entry of Louis XIV. in 
 1667 ; but the gate (before which Etienne Marcel was killed, 
 July 1358) was pulled down in 1674. 
 
 The Bastille was taken by the people, July 14, 1789, 
 and the National Assembly decreed its demolition. 
 
 ' Vers onze heures I'attaque devint serieuse, et le peuple avait 
 abattu le premier pont. Alors M. de Launay, gouverneur de la 
 Bastille, donna I'ordre de tirer ; il fut obei, et cette decharge dispersa 
 la multitude. Elle revint bientot, exasperee et plus nombreuse. On 
 lira sur elle un coup de canon k mitraille qui I'eloigna de nouveau ; 
 mais I'arrivee d'un d^tachement des gardes fran9aises, qui se mit au 
 nombre des assaillants, ^branla le courage de la garnison, qui parla de 
 se rendre. M. de Flue, commandant des trente-deux soldats de Salis, 
 declara qu'il preferait la mort. M. de Launay, voyant que la garnison 
 etait pr^te k I'abandonner, prit la mhche d'un des canons, pour mettre 
 le feu aux poudres, ce qui eflt fait sauter une partie du faubourg 
 S. Antoine. Deux sous-officiers I'en emp&herent. Dans un conseil 
 qu'il assembla sur-le-champ, il proposa de faire sauter la forteresse, 
 plut6t que toraber entre les mains d'une populace furieuse qui 
 egorgerait la garnison. Cette proposition fut rejetee. M. de Flue fit 
 demander aux assiegeants une capitulation, promettant de baisser les 
 ponts-levis, et de deposer les armes, si on accordait la vie aux assieges. 
 Un ofiScier du regiment de la reine, I'un des commandants et des 
 plus avancfe prfe de la forteresse, promit sur son honneur. Les ponts 
 furent aussitSt baisses et le peuple entra sans difficult^. Son premier 
 soin fut de rechercher le gouverneur. On s'empara de lui ; et, au 
 mepris de la capitulation, depuis la Bastille jusqu'k I'arcade S. Jean, 
 sous laquelle il fut massacr^, cet infortun^ fut accabl^ d'outrages et de 
 mauvais traitements. ' — Ditails donnis par M. (TAgay. 
 
 The massive circular pedestal upon which the Colonne 
 de Juillet now rests was intended by Napoleon I. to support a 
 gigantic fountain in the form of an elephant, instead of the 
 
PLACE DE LA BASTILLE 191 
 
 column which, after the destruction of the Bastille, the ' tiers 
 dtat' of Paris had asked to erect 'k Louis XVI., restaurateur 
 de la libertd publique.' It is characteristic of the Parisians 
 that on the very same- spot the throne of Louis Philippe 
 was publicly burnt, February 24, 1848. The model for the 
 intended elephant existed here till the middle of the reign 
 of Louis Philippe, and is depicted by Victor Hugo as the 
 lodging of ' Le petit Gavroche.' 
 
 ' Ce monument, rude, trapu. pesant, Upre, austere, presque difforme, 
 mais 4 coup s(ir majestueux et empreint d'une sorte de gravite magnifique 
 et sauvage, a disparu pour laisser r^gner en paix I'espece de poele 
 gigantesque, orn^ de son tuyau, qui a remplace la sombre forteresse i 
 neuf tours, a peu prfes comme la bourgeoisie remplace la feodalit^. II 
 est tout simple qu'un poele soit le symbole d'une epoque dont une 
 marmite contient la puissance. 
 
 'L'architecte de I'elephant avec du platre etait parvenu ^ faire du 
 grand ; l'architecte du tuyau de po81e a r^ussi a faire du petit avec le 
 bronze. 
 
 ' Ce tuyau de poele, ce monument roanqud d'une revolution avort6e, 
 Ton a baptist d'un nom sonore et nomm^ la colonne de Juillet.'' — 
 Les Misirables. 
 
 Looking on to the Bastille stood the Hotel de Beaumar- 
 
 chais, built by the author of Le Mariage de Figaro, the 
 
 famous satire upon the Court of Louis XVL, who, when he 
 
 read it in MS., exclaimed, ' Si Ton jouait cette pifece, il 
 
 faudrait d^truire la Bastille ! on ne la jouera jamais ! ' yet which 
 
 all the great world witnessed immediately after at the Thdatre 
 
 Frangais. The gardens of the hotel are now covered by 
 
 warehouses. 
 
 ' The Hotel de Beaumarchais, erected on the designs of Le Moine, 
 is, I believe, meant to be a perfect rus in urbe, for wildernesses, grottoes, 
 subterranean caverns, and gurgling fountains, are all assembled in a 
 
 * Designed by Alavoine, executed by Due 
 
192 PARIS 
 
 space not much larger than that usually assigned to the flower-knot 
 of an English villa. A very pretty temple is raised to the memory of 
 Voltaire ; and under the shade of a willow, marked by an urn filled 
 with the golden flowers of I'immortelle, repose the ashes of Beau- 
 marchais himself. ' — Lady Morgan's ' France. ' 
 
 The Boulerard Henri IV., running south-west from the 
 Place de la Bastille to the Quartier de I'Arsenal, destroys 
 many associations. It is more interesting to reach the same 
 point by a more circuitous route, re-entering the Marais by 
 the picturesque Rue S. Antoine, which is on a direct line 
 with the Rue de Rivoli. No street is more connected with 
 the story of the different revolutions than this, and, from 
 its neighbourhood to the two royal hotels of Des Tournelles 
 and S. Paul, none is more associated with the early history 
 of France. It was here that Henry II., tilting in a tourna- 
 ment, received his death-wound. 
 
 ' Les bruits joyeux i. I'occasion du double mariage des princesses de 
 France allaient s'^teindre dans le silence de moit ! Le 20 juin, madame 
 Elisabeth de France avait ete ^pousee i Notre-Dame par le due d'Albe, 
 procureur du roi d'Espagne ; le 27, fut signi le contrat du due de 
 Savoie et de madame Marguerite. Une lice splendide avait ete ^tabli au 
 bout de la rue Saint-Antoine, devant I'hotel royal des Tournelles et 
 presque au pied de la Bastille, oil ^taient enfermes les magistrals 
 arraches de leurs sieges : depuis trois jours les princes et les seigneurs 
 y joutaient en presence des dames ; le 29 juin, les tenants du tournoi 
 furent les dues de Guise et de Nemours, le fils du due de Ferrare et le 
 roi en personne, portant les couleurs de sa dame sexag^naire, la livree 
 noire et blanche des veuves, que Diane n'avait jamais quitt^e. Comme 
 le pas d'armes finissait, le roi, qui avait fourni quelques courses ' ' en 
 roide et adroit cavalier," voulut rompre encore une lance avant de se 
 retirer, et, malgr^ les prieres de la reine, il ordonna au comte de 
 Montgommeri de courir centre lui. CMtait le capitaine des gardes 
 qui avait men^ du Bourg et du Faur k la Bastille. Montgommeri 
 voulut en vain s'excuser. Les deux jouteurs se heurt^rent violemment 
 et rompirent leurs lances avec dext^rite ; mais Montgommeri oublia de 
 jeter k I'instant, selon I'usage, le tronjon demeure dans sa main ; il en 
 
EGLISE DE LA VISITATION 193 
 
 frappa involontairement le casque du roi, lui releva la visibe et lui 
 fit entrer un Mat du bois dans I'ceil 1 Le roi tomba sur le cou de son 
 cheval, qui I'eraporta jusqu'au bout de la carriire ; ses fcuyers le 
 re9urent dans leurs bras ; on le reporta aux Toumelles, au milieu 
 d'une confusion et d'un efifroi indicibles. Tous las secours de I'art 
 furent inutiles ; le bois avait ■^k.viitxi dans la cervelle ; I'illustre Vesale 
 accourut en vain de Bruxelles, sur I'ordre de Philippe II. Henri 
 languit onze jours et expira, le 10 juillet, apr^s avoir, la veille de sa 
 mort, fait c^lebrer dans sa chambre le mariage de sa soeur Marguerite 
 avec le due de Savoie. II ^tait ig^ de quarante ans et quelques mois. 
 Toute I'Europe protestante salua le bras du Seigneur dans ce coup de 
 foudre qui venait de frapper le roi persecuteur parmi les f4tes des 
 " impies." ' — Henri Martin, ' Hist, de France.'' 
 
 On the left is the former Church of the Visitation, 
 adding everywhere to the picturesqueness of the street by 
 the marvellous grace of its outline, now, as the Temple 
 S. Marie, given to the Calvinists. The Visitandines were 
 brought from Annecy to Paris by Sainte Marie Chantal. 
 They bought the Hotel de Coss^, where their admirable 
 domed church was begun by Frangois Mansart in 1632, and 
 dedicated, in 1634, to Notre Dame des Anges. Andrd 
 Fremiot, Archbishop of Bourges, brother of the foundress, 
 Baronne de Chantal, rested in one of its chapels ; in another 
 lay the minister Fouquet, celebrated for his sudden disgrace 
 and imprisonment in 1680 ; in its crypt were a number of 
 coffins of the house of Sevign^. The church occupies the 
 site of the Hotel de Boissy, where for thirty-three days 
 Henri III. watched by his dying ' Mignon ' Quelus, mortally 
 wounded in the great duel of April 27, 1578, promising 
 100,000 francs to the surgeons in attendance if they could 
 save the life of one to whom he bore ' une merveilleuse 
 amitid.' But it was of no use, and when Qudlus had breathed 
 his last, crying out, ' Oh, mon roi, mon roi ! ' it was the king 
 
 
 
194 
 
 PARIS 
 
 who, with his own hands, took out the earrings he had given 
 him, and cut off his long chestnut hair. 
 
 Within two doors of the church (No. 212) is the Hotel de 
 Mayenne, or iT Ormesson, or du Fetii-Musc, a very hand- 
 some house, built by Du Cerceau for the Due de Mayenne, 
 
 H&TEL DE SULLY. 
 
 and afterwards inhabited by the President d'Ormesson. It 
 now belongs to the Frferes des Ecoles Chrdtiennes. 
 
 A little further down the street, on the right (No. 143), 
 is the finest of all the ancient hotels -which still remain in 
 the neighbourhood of the Place Royale, that of the great 
 minister who superintended its erection. The Hdtel de 
 Sully or de Bethune was built from designs of Androuet du 
 Cerceau for Maximilien de Bdthune, Due de Sully, the 
 
HOTEL DE SULLY 195 
 
 friend and minister of Henri IV., upoii part of the site of 
 
 the Hotel des Tournelles, with the fortune he made in the 
 
 king's service. 
 
 ' " Donnez-moi," lui ecrivait le roi, " votre foi et voire parole d'etre 
 aussi bon m&ager de mon bien i mon profit que je vous I'ai tou- 
 jours vu etre de votre, et de ne d^sirer de faire vos affaires que de 
 mon su et par ma pur liberality, qui sera assez ample pour un homme 
 de bien et un esprit r6gl6 comme le votre.'" — CEcmiomies royales, 
 i. 207. 
 
 The rich front of the hotel still looks down upon the 
 Rue S. Antoine, and the four sides of its stately court are 
 magnificently adorned with sculptures of armour and figures 
 of the Four Seasons ; masques and leaves decorate its win- 
 dows. The noble saloon on the first floor has remains of 
 the monogram of Sully ; in another room is an ancient 
 mosaic pavement After Sully the h6tel belonged to Turgot, 
 then to Boisgelin, by whose name it is still often known, 
 Two other ancient hotels remain in this part of the Rue S. 
 Antoine. One is the picturesque Hdtel de Beauvais (No. 
 62), built by Antoine Lepautre for Pierre de Beauvais. His 
 wife, Catherine Bellier, who was first waiting-woman to 
 Anne of Austria, is commemorated in the heads of rams 
 {tetes de belier) which alternate with those of lions in the 
 decorations. Catherine owed so much to Anne of Austria 
 that it used to be a saying that she had taken the stones of 
 the Louvre to build her house with. The oval court has 
 masks and pilasters ; the vestibule has doric columns sus- 
 taining trophies ; a staircase, with cori-nthian columns, bas- 
 reliefs, and a rich balustrade, leads to the principal rooms on 
 the first floor, from one of which, on August 26, 1660, Anne 
 of Austria watched the triumphal entrance into the capital 
 of Louis XIV. and Marie Th^rfese. At No. 162 is the Pas- 
 
196 PARIS 
 
 sage S. Pierre, on the site of the prison of the Grange S. 
 Eloy. On its way to the Rue S. Paul it traverses part of the 
 ancient XV. c. cloisters of S. Paul, supported by solid 
 buttresses, and ceiled with timber in panels. 
 
 Opposite the Hotel de Sully, the Rue de S. Paul leads 
 from the Rue S. Antoine into the ancient Quartier de 
 S. Faul, which, with the adjoining Quartier de I'Arsenal, were 
 suburbs of the city before they were included within the 
 walls of Charles V. and thus united to the northern part of 
 the town. The quarter was chiefly inhabited by those who 
 were ' hommes d'eau' or persons whose interests lay in the 
 part of the Seine upon which it abutted, being the place 
 where all the boats coming from the upper Seine and the 
 Marne were moored for the lading and unlading of their 
 merchandise. The great Port de S. Paul took its name 
 from a church, which dated from the VII. c, and it 
 was divided into several smaller ports, each of which had 
 its own name and destination, under the superintendence of 
 the confraternity of Marchands de Feau. In this mercantile 
 quarter three great religious establishments were situated — 
 the church of S. Paul, the convent of Ave Maria, and the 
 convent of the Cdlestins. The church was founded in 633 
 by S. Eloy, prime minister of the Merovingian King Dago- 
 bert. But his building, which contained the tomb of the 
 sainted abbot Quintilianus, was only a chapel on the site of 
 the existing Rue de S. Paul, in a spot once called Grange 
 de S. Eloy. Its cemetery, which extended as far as the 
 Rue Beautreillis, was intended as a burial-place for the nuns 
 of the great monastery of S. Martial, which S. Eloy had 
 founded in the Cit^, for, at that time, in accordance with 
 the pagan custom, all burials took place outside the town. 
 
S. PAUL LES CHAMPS 197 
 
 It was only at the end of the XI. c. that the church of 
 S. Paul les Champs became parochial. Charles V. re- 
 built it in the severe gothic style, and it was reconsecrated 
 with great magnificence in 1431. Its entrance, on the Rue 
 S. Paul, had three gothic portals, beneath a tower surmounted 
 by a lofty spire. Its windows were of great beauty, and were 
 not finished till the close of Charles VII. 's reign, for amongst 
 the personages represented in them was the Maid of Orleans, 
 with the legend, Etmoy k Roy. Through its neighbourhood 
 to Vincennes and afterwards to the Hotel de S. Paul and 
 the Hotel des Tournelles, the royal church of S. Paul was for 
 several centuries ih& paroisse du rot. All the dauphins, from 
 the reign of Philippe de Valois to that of Louis XI., were 
 baptised there, in a font which still exists at Medan, near 
 Poissy, whither it was removed by one Henri Perdrier, 
 Alderman of Paris, when the old church was rebuilt. It 
 became a point of ambition with the illustrious persons of 
 the Court to be buried either in its cemetery or in its side 
 chapels, which they had themselves adorned with sculpture, 
 hangings, or stained glass. The cloisters were approached 
 by an avenue (the present Passage S. Pierre) and exhibited 
 in themselves all the different periods of gothic architecture, 
 as these buildings were only completed in the XVI. c. : 
 decorations were even added to them under Louis XIV. 
 Their galleries had stained windows by Pinaigrier, Porcher, 
 and Nicolas Desangives. In the church the earliest recorded 
 epitaph is that of Denisette la Bertichifere, laundry-maid to 
 the king, 131 1. The splendid Chapelle de la Communion 
 was the burial-place of the House of Noailles. The name 
 Strail des Mignons was at one time given to the church from 
 the mignons of Henry III. — Qudlus, Maugiron, and Saint-' 
 
198 PARIS 
 
 Mdgrin ' — buried there. The king erected magnificent tombs 
 to them ; but their statues were destroyed in 15 88 by the 
 people, led on by the preaching of the monks, who were infu- 
 riated at the murder of the Guises. In the choir lay Robert 
 Ceneau (Cenahs), Bishop of Avranches, who died, April 27, 
 1560, 'en expurgant les h^r^sies.' Nicole Gilles, the histo- 
 rian of the Annales de France, was buried in the chapel of 
 S. Louis, which he had built de scs deniers. Pierre Biard, 
 sculptor and architect j the famous architect Franjois Man- 
 sart, and his nephew Jules Hardouin ; Jean Nicot, ambas- 
 sador of P'rance in Portugal, and the importer of tobacco, 
 called at first la nicotiana in his honour ; the philosopher 
 Pierre Sylvain R^gis, and Adrien Baillet, the learned libra- 
 rian of the President de Lamoignon, were also buried here. 
 Under an old fig-tree in the cemetery was the grave of Fran- 
 cois Rabelais, curd of Meudon, who died (April 9, 1553) in 
 the Rue des Jardins, and was laid here=because he was con- 
 nected with the parish as priest or canon of the collegiate 
 church of S. Maur des Fossds. 
 
 ' Rabelais reyut humblement le viatique avant de mourir ; mais, 
 au moment de I'extreme-onction, il ne put s'empecher de dire qu'on 
 lui graissait les bottes pour le grand voyage. II laissa, assure-Pon, sous 
 forme de scelld, cette inanifere de testament: "Je n'ai rien vaillant, je 
 dois beaucoup ; je donne le reste aux pauvres. " On lui attribue deux 
 autres mots, qui sont bien dans son caractere : " Je vais chercher un 
 grand peut-etre." Et enfin, avec un eclat de rire : " Tirez le rideau, 
 la farce est jou&." '—P. Barrire, ' Les ecrivains fran^ais.' 
 
 The body of Charles de Gontaut, Due de Biron, executed 
 in the Bastille under Henri IV., was brought to the church- 
 yard of S. Paul, with that of the 'Man with the Iron Mask,' 
 
 * Saint-M^grin, who was looked upon as the mignon of the Duchesse de Guise, 
 was murdered by her brother-in-law, the Due de Mayenne, in the Rue S. Honore, 
 July 21, 1578. 
 
5. PAUL LES CHAMPS 
 
 199 
 
 who died in the Bastille in 1703, and hgre also were buried 
 the four skeletons which were found chained in the dungeons 
 of the Bastille in June 1790. One year more and both church 
 and cemetery were closed ; they were sold as national pro- 
 
 IN THE RUE DE K, PAUL. 
 
 perty in December 1794, and two years afterwards they 
 were demohshed for house-building. The crowded bodies 
 which formed the foundation were not removed before the 
 hurried erection of Nos. 30, 32, 34 of the Rue S. Paul, for 
 fifty years later the proprietors, making new cellars, came 
 
200 PARIS 
 
 upon masses of bones, and even entire coffins, in lead and 
 wood. 
 
 The Convent of Ave Maria only received that name 
 under Louis XI. It was originally occupied by Bdguines, 
 brought by Louis IX. from Nivelle in Flanders in 1230. 
 Gradually the number of these uncloistered nuns (who took 
 their name from S. Bague, daughter of a maire du palais of 
 king Sigebert) amounted to four hundred, known in Paris 
 as Devotes, though, according to the poet Thomas Chantprd, 
 they led by no means an exemplary life. When they after- 
 wards dwindled in numbers, Louis XI. gave their convent, 
 under the name of Ave Maria, to the Poor Clares, who 
 flourished greatly under the patronage of his widow, Queen 
 Charlotte. Their house was entered from the Rue des 
 Barr^s by a gateway bearing statues of Louis XL and Char- 
 lotte de Savoie, and their church was full of tombs of great 
 ladies, including those of Jeanne de Vivonne, daughter of 
 the lord of Chastaigneraie ; of Catherine de la Tremoille, and 
 Claude Catherine de Clermont, Duchesse de Retz. The 
 President Mold and his wife, Rende de Nicolai, reposed 
 alone in the chapter-house. At the Revolution the convent 
 was turned into a cavalry barrack ; this gave place to a 
 market ; now nothing is left. 
 
 Opposite the main entrance of the Ave Maria was the 
 Jeu de Paume de la Croix Noire, on the ramparts of the 
 town. After the Jeu de Paume became unfashionable, at 
 the end of the reign of Louis XIII., its place was taken here 
 for a short time by the Jllustre The&tre, where Molifere was 
 chief actor, and whence, having made himself responsible 
 for the debts of the company, he was soon carried off to 
 prison in the Grand Chitelet. The site occupied by the 
 
LES CELESTINS 201 
 
 Jeu de Paume had originally been a convent of Carmelites, 
 called Barr^s, on account of their long mantles divided into 
 checks of black and white. It was these nuns who gave a 
 name to the Jiue des £ arris. 
 
 The Carmehtes were removed by S. Louis to the Rue 
 du Petit-Musc, and afterwards they moved to the Quartier 
 S. Jacques, selling their land in the Quartier de S. Paul to 
 Jacques Marcel, merchant of Paris, whose son, Gamier 
 Marcel, bestowed it in 1352 upon the Cdlestins, established 
 here under the patronage of the dauphin Charles, during 
 the captivity of his father, king Jean, in England. As 
 Charles V., he built them a magnificent church, whose portal 
 bore his statue and that of his wife Jeanne de Bourbon (now 
 at S. Denis). Henceforth the Cflestins became the especial 
 royal foundation, and its monks were spoken of by the 
 kings as their bien-aimes chapelains ei serviieurs de Dieu. 
 From the XIV. c. to the XVI. c. benefactors of the con- 
 vent were dressed in the Cdlestin habit before receiving 
 the last sacraments, and thus they were represented upon 
 their tombs in the pavement of the church. Amongst the 
 sepulchral inscriptions here were those of the family of 
 Marcel ; of Jean Lhuiller, counsellor of parliament, and of 
 the famous doctor, Odo de Creil (1373). In the choir were 
 many cenotaphs, containing only the hearts of the princesses 
 of France buried at S. Denis, but it was also adorned by the 
 tombs of Jeanne de Bourbon, wife of Charles V., 1377 (now 
 at S. Denis) ; of L^on de Lusignan, last king of Armenia, 
 1393 (at S. Denis) ; and of Anne de Bourgogne, Duchess 
 of Bedford, 1432 (now at the Louvre).' Annexed to the 
 
 * On the destruction of the church her remains— being those of the daughter of 
 Jean sans Peiu" — were removed to S. B^nigne at Dijon. 
 
202 PARIS 
 
 church by the Confr'erie des dix mille martyrs in the XV. c. 
 was the chapel which became the burial-place of the 
 united families, of Gesvres and Beaune, and contained 
 the body of Jacques de Beaune, lord of Semblangay, Con- 
 troller of Finances under rran5ois I., unjustly hanged on a 
 gallows at Montfaucon in 1543. Near his forgotten grave 
 rose the magniiicent monuments of the Potier des Gesvres 
 and de Luxembourg, with their kneeling figures. Three 
 little chapels, communicating with the Chapelle des Gesvres, 
 belonged to other families — that of Rochefort, which pro- 
 duced two chancellors of France in the reigns of Louis XL, 
 Charles VIIL, and Charles XIL, of whom one, Guy de 
 Rochefort, had a curious tomb ; that of the family of Zamet, 
 which began with the financier Sdbastien Zamet, who died 
 in 16 14 in his magnificent hotel of the Rue de la Cerisaie, 
 and which ended with his son Jean Zamet, governor of the 
 Chiteau of Fontainebleau, who died in battle in 1622 ; and 
 that of Charles de Maignd, gentleman of the chamber to 
 Henri II., with a beautiful statue by the Florentine Paolo 
 Poncio, now in the Louvre. 
 
 A more magnificent building, like a succursale to 
 S. Denis, rose attached to the C^lestins — the great Chapelle 
 d'Orl^ans, built in 1393 by Louis d'Orl^ans, the younger 
 son of Charles V. (who was murdered in the Rue Barbette), 
 in fulfilment of a vow of his wife, Valentine de Milan, for 
 his escape from perishing by fire in the terrible masquerade 
 called le ballet des ardents, given in the old hotel of Blanche 
 of Castille. Here, in the monastery which he had richly 
 endowed, he was buried with his wife (who only survived 
 him a short time), and all his descendants ; and here his 
 grandson, Louis XIL, erected a magnificent monument 
 
LES CtLESTlNS 203 
 
 (now at S. Denis) to his memory and that of his sons. 
 Beside it stood the urn (also at S. Denis) which contained 
 the heart of Franjois II., and the beautiful group of the 
 three Graces by Germain Pilon (now at the Louvre) which 
 upheld the bronze urn holding the hearts of Henri II., 
 Catherine de M6dicis, Charles IX., and his brother, 
 Francois de Maine, Due d'Anjou. Near this rose a 
 pyramid in honour of the house of Longueville, and two 
 sarcophagi which contained the hearts of a Comte de 
 Cossd-Brissac and a Due de Rohan. Here also was the 
 tomb, with a seated statue, of Philippe de Chabot, and that 
 of the Mardchal Anne de Montmorency, by Barthdlemy 
 Prieur (both now in the Louvre). All the precious contents 
 of the Cdlestins, except the few statues now in the galleries, 
 perished in the Revolution. Its church served as a barn 
 and stable for half a century, and was destroyed in 1849. 
 Amongst the coffins thrown up at this time was that of 
 Anne, Duchess of Bedford, daughter of Jean sans Peur. 
 She was buried here, because after her death her husband 
 recollected how, one night ' qu'elle s'esbattoit k jeux 
 honnestes ' with the gentlemen and ladies of her household, 
 she heard the bells of the C^lestins so»und for matins, and 
 rising up, and inviting her ladies to follow her, went at once 
 to the church, and assisted at the holy office, by the tomb 
 of that Due d'Orldans whom her father had caused to be 
 assassinated. 
 
 Whilst Jean le Bon was a prisoner in England, his son, 
 afterwards Charles V., was oppressed by the growing power 
 of the Confrerie des Bourgeois, the municipal authorities of 
 Paris, Under their formidable provost, Etienne Marcel, 
 they had broken into the Louvre and murdered his two 
 
204 PARIS 
 
 favourite ministers in his presence, his own life only being 
 saved by his consenting to put on the red and green cap ot 
 the republican leader, and giving him his own of cloth of 
 gold, arrayed in which he showed himself triumphantly to 
 the people. The king for the time escaped from Paris, and 
 after Marcel had been killed, July 31, 1358, at the Bastille 
 S. Antoine, he determined to seek a more secure residence 
 with the Association de la Marchandise de Feau, which had 
 always been submissive and devoted to the royal authority. 
 Every preceding king had held his Court either in the Citd 
 or at the Louvre, but Charles now bought, near the Port de 
 S. Paul, the hotel of the Comte d'Etampes, which occupied 
 the whole space between the Rue S. Antoine and the Ceme- 
 tery of S. Paul. In 1363 he added to his purchase the 
 hotel of the Archbishop of Sens, with gardens which reached 
 to the Port, and he had also become the owner of the 
 smaller hotels d'Estomesnil and de Pute-y-Muce, and of that 
 of the abbots of S. Maur, who built another for themselves 
 in the Rue des Barr^s. By an edict of July 1364, 
 Charles V., after coming to the throne, declared the Hotel 
 de S. Paul to be for ever part of the domain of the Crown — 
 the hotel where ' he had enjoyed many pleasures, endured 
 and recovered from many illnesses, and which therefore he 
 regarded with singular pleasure and affection.' No plan of 
 the Hotel de S. Paul has come down to us, but we know 
 that it was rather a group of palaces than a single building, 
 the Hotel de Sens being the royal dwelling-place ; the Hotel 
 de S. Maur, under the name of Hotel de la Conciergerie, 
 being the residence of the Due d'Orldans, Due de Bourgogne, 
 and other princes of the royal family ; the H6tel d'Etampes 
 being called Hotel de la Reine, afterwards Hotel de Beau- 
 
HbTEL DE S. PAUL 205 
 
 treillis ; whilst, on the other side of the Rue du Petit-Musc, 
 were the Hotel du Petit-Musc, and Maison du Pont-Perrin, 
 probably occupied by Court officials. The palace, as a whole, 
 was surrounded by high walls, inclosing six meadows, eight 
 gardens, twelve galleries, and a number of courts. We know 
 many of the names of the royal dwelling-rooms, such as the 
 Chambre de Charlemagne, so called from its tapestries ; 
 the Galerie des Courges ; the Chambre de Theseus ; the 
 Chambre Lambriss^ej the Chambre Verte; Chambre des 
 Grandes Aulnoires, &c. The garden walks were shaded by 
 trellises covered with vines, which produced annually a large 
 quantity of Vin de V Hotel. In their shade Charles V. amused 
 himself by keeping a menagerie, and many accounts exist 
 of sums disbursed to those who brought him rare animals. 
 Here the queen and her ladies appeared in the new dress 
 of the time, in which their own arms were always em- 
 broidered on one side of their gown, and their husbands' on 
 the other. 
 
 From his twelfth year to his death at fifty-four, 
 Charles VI. lived constantly at the Hotel de S. Paul; 
 there he found himself practically a prisoner in the hands 
 of the provost of the merchants, whom his father had come 
 thither specially to avoid, and there, in 1392, he showed the 
 first symptoms of the insanity which returned, with intervals 
 of calm and sense, till his death ; there his twelve children 
 by Isabeau de Bavifere were born, most of them during his 
 madness ; there he several times saw his palace attacked by 
 a mob, and his relations and courtiers arrested without being 
 able to help them ; and there, abandoned by his wife and 
 children, he died, Oct. 20, 1422, being only cared for by 
 a mistress, Odette de Champdivers, nicknamed la petite 
 
2o6 PARIS 
 
 reine. For thirteen years after her husband's death, Isabeau 
 de Bavifere remained shut up from the detestation of the 
 French, in the Hotel S. Paul. ' Even her body was so 
 despised,' says Brantome, 'that it was transported from her 
 hotel, in a little boat on the Seine, without any kind of 
 ceremony or pomp, and was thus carried to her grave at 
 S. Denis, just as if she had been a simple demoiselle.' 
 From this time the Hotel de S. Paul was deserted by royalty. 
 When Charles VH. returned victorious to Paris he would 
 not lodge even in the Hotel des Tournelles, contaminated 
 for him by the residence of the Duke of Bedford, and, 
 whenever he was in Paris, he stayed at the Hotel Neuf, 
 which is sometimes supposed to have been the same as the 
 Hotel du Petit-Musc, afterwards (when given by Charles VHI. 
 to Anne of Brittany) known as Hotel de Bretagne. In spite 
 of the letters patent of Charles V. declaring the Hotel de 
 S. Paul inalienable from the domains of the Crown, Louis XI. 
 bestowed several of the satellite hotels dependent on th^ 
 palace upon his friends, and during the reign of Frangois I. 
 the Rues des Lions, Beautreillis, and de la Cerisaie, recalling 
 by their names the ancient sites they occupied, had invaded 
 the precincts of the palace, A great part of the buildings 
 and land extending from the Rue des Barrds to the Rue du 
 Petit-Musc, with the great royal palace ' fort vague et 
 ruineux,' was alienated in 15 16 for the benefit of Jacques 
 de Geroilhac, grand-master and captain-general of the 
 artillery of France, in reward for his public service, especially 
 at the battle of Marignan ; finally, in 1S42, all the rest of the 
 royal domain in the Quartier de S. Paul, comprising a great 
 number of hotels under different illustrious names, was 
 sold, and the sites were soon occupied by fresh buildings. 
 
HbXEL DE VIEUVILLE 207 
 
 Scarcely any fragments of the vast royal palace remain. 
 At the corner of the Rue de S. Paul and Rue des Lions 
 is a tourelle, which may have belonged to one of the minor 
 hotels of the royal colony. 
 
 ' Cette rue prit son nom du batiment et des cours ou ^toient ren- 
 ferm^s les grands et les petits lions du roi. Un jour que Franyois I. 
 s'amusoit i regarder au combat de ses lions, une dame ayant laiss^ 
 tomber son gant, dit k De Lorges, " Si vous voulez que je croye que 
 vous m'aimez autant que vous me le jurez tous les jours, allez ramasser 
 mon gant." De Lorges descend, ramasse le gant au milieu de ces 
 terribles animaux ; remonte, le jette au nez de la dame ; et depuis, 
 malgr^ toutes les avances et les agaceries qu'elle lui faisoit, ne voulut 
 jamais la voir.' — De Saint-Foix, ' Essais SU7- Paris,' 1776. 
 
 Of the streets on the left of the Rue de S. Paul, the Rue 
 Charles V. leads to the Jiue de la Cerisaie, where, at No. 21, 
 are remains of the house which Philibert Delorme built for 
 himself, and which he intended as a specimen of his finished 
 work. His book, Nouvelles inventions pour Men iastir, 
 draws attention to it as a model ' estant le tout propose par 
 manifere d'exemple et pour montrer comme I'on doit ap- 
 pliquer les fen^tres et portes.' At the back of the garden 
 of No. 22 is the fagade of the back part of the house, with 
 a winding staircase of massive stone. 
 
 " The Hotel de Vieuville, the courtyard of which opens 
 on the left at the angle of the Rue de S. Paul and the Quai 
 des Cdlestins, picturesque as it is in its high dormer windows 
 of brick, only dates from the time of H^nri III. It appears 
 in the plan of Gomboust of 1652. 
 
 The old hotel behind the Hotel de Vieuville is the Hotel 
 des Lions du Roi, which was appropriated by Jacques de 
 Geroilhac as his residence, in his quality of grand ecuyer, 
 because it adjoined the vast royal stables, which still exist, 
 
2o8 PARIS 
 
 surmounted by granaries, lighted by lofty ornamented win- 
 dows. The hotel has long been an establishment for dis- 
 tilled waters, but it retains some of its halls with painted 
 ceilings, and walls decorated in stucco. Its entrance from 
 the Quai des Celestins, much altered, is perhaps the main 
 entrance to the royal palace of S. Paul, but a row of houses 
 has taken the place of the fortified wall which protected the 
 royal residence towards the river. 
 
 Opening from the Rue de S. Paul to the east is the Hue 
 Charles V., where No. 12 was the Hotel tfAubray,mh3!a\tedi 
 by the Marquise de Brinvilliers, the famous murderess. 
 During her trial, Mme de S^vignd wrote — 
 
 ' 3 Juillet, 1676. — L'affaire de la Brinvilliers va toujours son train ; 
 elle empoisonnoit de certaines tourtes de pigeonnaux, dont plusieurs 
 mouroient ; ce n'etoit pas qu'elle edt des raisons pour s'en ddfaire, 
 c'^toient de simples experiences pour s'assurer de I'effet de ses poisons. 
 Le Chevalier du Guet, qui avoit de ces jolis repas, s'en meurt depuis 
 deux ou trois ans ; elle demandoit I'autre jour s'il etoit mort ; on dit 
 que non ; elle dit en se tournant : " II a la vie bien dure. " ' 
 
 and, after her execution — - 
 
 ' 17 Juillet, 1676. — Enfin, e'en est fait. La Brinvilliers est en I'air ; 
 son pauvre petit corps a ete jete, apris I'ex&ution, dans un fort-grand 
 feu, et ses cendres au vent ; de sorte que nous la respirons, et par la 
 communication des petits esprits, il nous prendra quelqu'humeur em- 
 poisonnante, dont nous serons tous ^tonnfe. 
 
 ' La Brinvilliers est morte comme elle a vecu, c'est-i-dire, resolu- 
 ment. Elle entra dans le lieu oil Ton devoit lui donner la question ; 
 et voyant trois seaux d'eau, elle dit : " C'est assur^ment pour me 
 noyer ; car de la taille dont je suis, on ne pretend pas que je boive 
 tout cela." Elle ecouta son arrit d^s le matin, sans frayeur et sans 
 foiblesse, et sur le fin elle fit recommencer, disant que ce tombereau 
 I'avoit frappee d'abord, et qu'elle en avoit perdu I'attention pour le 
 teste. Elle dit k son confesseur, par le chemin, de faire mettre le 
 bourreau devant elle, qfin, dit-elle, de ne point voir ce coquin de 
 Desgrais, qui m'a prise. Desgrais etoit i cheval devant le tombereau. 
 
h6tEL DE LAVALETTE 209 
 
 Son confesseur la reprit de ce sentiment ; elle dit, " Ah, mon Dieu I 
 je vous en demande pardon, qu'on me laisse cette Strange vue." Elle 
 monta seule et nuds pieds sur I'echelle et sur I'echafaud, et fut un 
 quart-d'heure mirodie, ras^e, dresste et redress^e par le bourreau ; ce 
 fut un grand murmure et une grande cruaut6. Le lendemain, on 
 cherchoit ses os, parce que le peuple croyoit qu'elle ^toit sainte. 
 Elle avoit, disoit-elle, deux confesseurs, I'uB soutenoit qu'il falloit 
 tout avouer, et I'autre non .; elle ricit de cette diversite, disant, " Je 
 puis faire en conscience ce qu'il me plaira : " il lui a plu de ne rien 
 avouer. ' 
 
 Turning along the quay, at the angle of the Rue du 
 
 Petit-Musc is the Hotel de Lavalette, formerly Hotel Fieu- 
 
 bet, built under the regency of Anne of Austria, stately 
 
 and beautiful, and decorated with paintings by Lesueur, 
 
 though overcharged with ornament by Le Gros for its 
 
 possessor since the Revolution. 
 
 ' Hotel Fieubet n'est pas aussi ancien que I'hStel de la Vieuville ; 
 il n'avait pas change de physionomie, avant que M. A. de Lavalette 
 eut I'idte de la remanier enti^rement, en le surchargeant de sculptures 
 qui lui donnent un caractere hybride, quoique trte-pittoresque. Ce 
 bel h6tel fut construit, sous la regence d'Anne d'Autriche, pour un 
 chancelier de cette reine, Gaspard Fieubet, qui devint conseiller d'Etat 
 pendant le regne de Louis XIV., et qui tenait plus aux choses de 
 I'esprit qu'aux vanit& de cour ; il rassemblait dans son hotel une 
 sociite choisie, et faisait concurrence aux samedis de Mile de 
 Scud^ry. Les pontes avaient le pas sur les prosateurs, chez Gaspard 
 Fieubet, qui se m§lait de faire des vers et qui fut I'ami de la Fontaine.' 
 — Paris d travers les dges. 
 
 Behind the Boulevard Henri IV., on the west, was the 
 Hotel de Lesdiguiferes, built by the Italian financier 
 S^bastien Zamet, the friend of Henri IV., who constantly 
 came with Gabrielle d'Estrees to this hotel, called by the 
 people le palais d' amour du rot. It was after a supper here 
 that Gabrielle first felt the pangs of which she died (1599), 
 and which are supposed to have been caused by poison. 
 
210 PARIS 
 
 After the death of Sebastian Zamet, in 1614, the hotel was 
 sold to the Constable de Lesdiguiferes, who gave his name 
 to it. A century later, 1717, the Czar Peter I. of Russia 
 lodged there during his visit to Paris. The hotel has long 
 been destroyed, but the formation of the boulevard disclosed 
 
 ^HM 
 
 h6tel de lavalette. 
 
 the sculptured tomb of a cat of Francois Marguerite de 
 Gondy, Duchesse de Lesdigui^res, inscribed — 
 
 ' Cy-gist une chatte jolie ; 
 Sa maltresse, qui n'aima rlen, 
 L'aima jusques i la folie . . . 
 Pourquoi le dire 1 On le voit bien.' 
 
 The Quai Henry IV., beyond the Quai des C^lestins, 
 occupies the site of the He Louviers, now united to the 
 mainland. 
 
THE ARSENAL 211 
 
 At the entrance of the Boulevard Henri IV., opposite 
 the Hotel de Lavalette, is the entrance of the Rue de Sully, 
 bordered on the right by the building still called the Arsenal, 
 though no cannon have been cast in Paris since the reign 
 of Louis XIV. From the time of Philippe Auguste all 
 weapons of war were made in the Louvre, till Charles V., 
 for security, transferred the seat of government to the Hotel 
 de S. Paul. After this, weapons were manufactured within 
 the walls of the hotel in the Marais, and were laid up in the 
 great round Tour de Billy, which stood outside the city, 
 beyond the C^lestins. 
 
 Sully was made Grand Master of Artillery by Henri IV., 
 who was constantly coming hither from the Louvre to visit 
 him, and who, whilst Sully was looking after his magazines 
 and foundries, delighted to improve the residence and 
 gardens of his favourite minister. Sully built for the king 
 Le Cabinet de Henri IV., a charming summer pavilion, 
 containing one good chamber, with an oratory attached, 
 looking upon the He Louviers. But one day, on his way 
 to Sully at the Arsenal, the king was riiurdered. 
 
 Marie de Coss^-Brissac, wife of the tJrand Master Due 
 de la Meilleraie, entrusted the internal decoration of the 
 Cabinet de Henri IV. — which had never been completed — 
 some say to Simon Vouet, others to Claude Vignon. 
 
 ' La grande piice du cabinet de Henri IV. , que la duchesse de- 
 stinait i devenir sa chambre k coucher, se trouvait divisee en deux 
 parties distinctes, par le sujet meme des tableaux qui enfaisaient I'orne- 
 nient : ici, dans la partie la plus ample, le plafond et les lambris re- 
 presentaient allegoriquement les principaux faits d'armes du marechal 
 de la Meilleraie, entre autres le siege de la Rochelle et celui de 
 Hesdin, avec la prise de plusieurs villas du Roussillon. II est done 
 incontestable que ces peintuies ont ete faites en 1643 ou 1644. Un 
 
 p 2 
 
213 PARIS 
 
 tableau, qui paratt original et qui peut remonter a I'epoque de Sully, 
 repr&ente I'entree de Henri IV. a Paris, en 1594, quand le due de 
 Brissac lui en ouvrit les portes. Ce tableau est un souvenir de famille, 
 que Marie Coss6, duchesse de la Meilleraie, devait tenir ^ faire figurer 
 au milieu des trophees militaires de son mari. Dans la partie la plus 
 exigue du cabinet, laquelle formait la ruelle et contenait le lit d'honneur 
 de la duchesse, I'artiste a execute des peintures analogues a la destina- 
 tion d'une chambre k coucher : c'est le dieu du sommeil, entoure des 
 songes heureux. La petite chambre qui fait suite au cabinet de 
 Henri IV. annonce, par les peintures qui la dfcorent, qu'elle servait 
 d'oratoire : on y voit aussi, sous un plafond qui oflfre des sujets 
 emprunt^s k la gloire celeste, les femmes fortes de la Bible, auxquelles 
 le peintre s'est permis d'ajouter la Pucelle d'Orleans et la duchesse de 
 la Meilleraie elle-mfime, dont on a du noircir plus tard le costume en 
 habits de veuve, lorsqu'elle eut perdu son mari, que son fils rempla^a 
 comme grand-maltre de I'artillerie, a 1' Arsenal.' — P, L, Jacob, 'Paris 
 &■ trovers les dges.' 
 
 The office of Grand Master of the Artillery was always 
 given to the greatest personages of the Court. The Due de 
 la Meilleraie was succeeded by his son the Due de Mazarin, 
 then followed the Due de Lude, 1669; and the Due 
 d'Humiferes, 1683. At this time the Arsenal was the seat 
 of an extraordinary criminal tribunal, to inquire into the 
 crimes of magic and poisoning, concerning which terrible 
 revelations were made during the trial of the Marquise de 
 Brinvilliers, and which involved the Comtesse de Soissons 
 and many others of the greatest ladies in France. In 1694, 
 Louis XIV. gave the office of Grand Master of Artillery to 
 the Due de Maine (his much-indulged son by Mme de 
 Montespan, and his wife), Anne Louise de Bourbon-Cond^ 
 established herself there for a time, and inserted her por- 
 trait, as a nymph, by J. B. Vanloo, over the chimney-pieee 
 of the Cabinet de Henri IV. ' L'arsenal dtait renverse pour 
 y bitir un beau logement pour le Due de Maine,' says 
 
HOTEL DE SENS 213 
 
 S. Simon. The last Grand Master was his brother, the 
 Comte de Toulouse. 
 
 The old hotel of the Grand Master was rebuilt under 
 the Regent d'Orl^ans by BofFrand, but he preserved all that 
 was interesting in the house, only encasing the outer walls 
 which contained the rooms of Sully and Henri IV. When 
 the ofiSce of Grand Master of Artillery was suppressed, that 
 of Governor of the Arsenal remained, and to this Marc- 
 Antoine Rend Voyer de Paulmy, son of the Marquis 
 d'Argenson, was appointed. He cared nothing about 
 cannons, but devoted his whole time and fortune to the 
 acquisition of a magnificent library, which comprised 
 100,000 printed works and 3,000 MSS. Just before his death 
 he sold his library to the Comte d'Artois, who, by purchase, 
 added to it the library of the Prince de Soubise. At the 
 Revolution, the collection was seized and became a Public 
 Library, and at the Restoration, when "urged to claim what 
 was his own, the Comte d'Artois refused to do so, only 
 stipulating that the Library should be called Bibliothfeque 
 de Monsieur. The library (open daily from 10 to 3, except 
 on Sundays and holidays) is well worth visiting. Its collec- 
 tion now amounts to about 360,000 volumes, and is 
 generally known as the Bibliotheque de Paulmy. It is 
 especially rich in early French poetry. 
 
 In the Rue de Figuier, behind the Hotel de S. Paul, 
 will be found the remains of the Hotel de Sens, once en- 
 woven with the immense pile of buildings which formed the 
 royal residence. Jean le Bon, returning from his captivity in 
 London, was here for some time as the guest of the arch- 
 bishop of Sens. Charles V. bought the hotel from Arch- 
 bishop Guillaume de Melun, but upon the destruction of the 
 
214 
 
 PARIS 
 
 rest of the palace, that part which had belonged to them was 
 ■ restored to the Archbishop of Sens. In the beginning of 
 the XVI. c. the hotel was rebuilt by Archbishop Tristan 
 de Salazar. 
 
 Under Henri IV., the palace was inhabited for a time by 
 Marguerite de Valois (daughter of Henri II.), the licentious 
 
 h6tel de sens. 
 
 Reine Margot, when, after her divorce,„she left Auvergne, 
 and obtained the king's permission to establish herself 
 in Paris. Here it is said she used to sleep habitually 
 in a bed with black satin sheets, in order to give greater 
 effect to the whiteness of her skin. She came to the 
 hotel in August 1605, and left it before a year was over, 
 because, as she was returning from mass at the Cdlestins, 
 
HOTEL DE SENS 215 
 
 her page and favourite Julien was shot dead at the portiire 
 of her carriage, in a fit of jealousy, by Vermond, one of her 
 former lovers. The queen swore that she would neither eat 
 nor drink till she was revenged on the assassin, and he was 
 beheaded two days after, in her presence, opposite the hotel. 
 That evening she left Paris, never to return, as the people 
 were singing under her windows — 
 
 ' La Eoyne-Venus demi-morte 
 De voir mourir devant sa porte, 
 Son Adonis, son cher Amour, 
 Pour vengeance a devant sa face 
 Fait d^faire en la mesme place 
 L'assassin presque au mesme jour.' 
 
 It was within the walls of the Hotel de Sens, addition- 
 ally decorated by Cardinal Dupont, that Cardinal de Pellevd, 
 archbishop of Sens, one of the principal chiefs of the Ligue, 
 united the leaders of the Catholic party, and there he died, 
 March 22, 1594, whilst a Te Deum was being chanted at 
 Notre Dame for the entry of the king to Paris. 
 
 After the archbishops of Sens ceasedlo be metropolitans 
 of Paris (which was raised from a bishopric to an arch- 
 bishopric in 1622), they deserted their hotel, though they 
 were only dispossessed as proprietors by the Revolution. 
 In the last century the hotel became a diligence office ; now 
 a fabrique de confitures occupies the chamber of la galante 
 reine, but the building is still a beautiful and important 
 specimen of the first years of the XVI. c, and no one 
 should fail to visit its gothic gateway defended by two 
 encorbelled tourelles with high peaked roofs. A porch, 
 with vaulting irregular in plan, but exquisite in execution ; 
 its brick chimneys, great halls, the square donjon tower at 
 
2i6 PARIS 
 
 the back of the court, and the winding stair of the tourelle, 
 remain entire; only the chapel has been destroyed. On 
 the left of the entrance is an eight-pounder ball, which 
 lodged in the wall, July 28, 1830, during the attack on the 
 convent of Ave Maria. 
 
 A short distance hence, facing the Rue S. Antoine, is the 
 Church of S. Paul and S. Louis, erected 1627-41, by 
 Francois Derrand for Louis XIII., on the site of a Jesuit 
 church built (1580) on ground formerly occupied by the 
 hotel of the Cardinal de Bourbon. Ravaillac, the mur- 
 derer of Henri IV., declared that the Jesuit d'Aubign^ met 
 him in this earlier church and instigated his crime. The 
 first mass in the present church was celebrated by Cardinal 
 de Richeheu. The munificence of Louis XIII., who paid 
 for the existing church, was commemorated by the Jesuits 
 in a m.edal inscribed Vidt ut David, aedificat ut Salomon. 
 Richelieu added the portal, from designs of the Jesuit 
 Marcel Ange. The church has a rem.iniscence of 
 S. Andrea della Valle and S. Ignazio at Rome, but is greatly 
 their inferior. Two inscriptions on black marble against 
 the last pillars of the nave commemorate Bourdaloue (' Hie 
 jacet Bourdaloue'), 1704, and Huet, bishop of Avranches, 
 1 72 1, buried here. The interesting monuments in this 
 church, destroyed in the Revolution, included those of the 
 great Condd and his father Henri de Bourbon, by Sarazin, 
 also that of the cruel Chancellor Rend de Birague, now in the 
 Louvre. The heart of Louis XIII. was also preserved here 
 in a rich case by Sarazin, and the heart of Louis XIV. in a 
 case by Coustou le Jeune. In the left transept is Christ in 
 the garden of Olives, an early work of Engine Delacroix. 
 A representation of the Abbey of I^ongchamps is said to 
 
HdTEL DU PREVOT DE PARIS 217 
 
 be by Philippe de Champaigne. In the right transept a 
 picture of S. Isabelle (sister of S. Louis) offering that abbey 
 to the Virgin is perhaps by the same hand. The crucifix in 
 the sacristy comes from the old chapel of the Bastille. The 
 shells which serve as b^nitiers were given by Victor Hugo 
 when his first child was baptised. The name of S. Paul 
 was added to that of S. Louis when the old church of S. 
 Paul was destroyed in 1796. 
 
 Around the fountain opposite the church, the Cour des 
 Aides and the Chambre des Comptes fought for precedence 
 at the funeral of Cardinal de Birague. 
 
 At No. 102, Rue S. Antoine, is the entrance of the Fas- 
 sage Charlemagne, which crosses the courtyard of the Hotel du 
 Prevot de Paris, sometimes called HStel de Graville, Hdtel 
 d'Aubryot, or du Porc-ipic, which belonged to Hugues Au- 
 bryot, founder of the Bastille. We heair of his residing, not 
 at the Petit Chatelet, the official residence of the provosts, but 
 (1381) at his hotel, called Porc-dpic — 'klapoterne Saint-Pol.' 
 Having incurred the hatred of the University by his stern 
 repression of its disorders, he was accused of heresy and 
 favouring the Jews (a terrible crime at that time), and con- 
 demned, on a scaffold before Notre Dame, to pass the rest of 
 his life ' on the bread and water of affliction ' in the dungeons 
 of For I'EvSque, whence he was transferred to the Bastille, 
 but, being set free in a popular insurrection, escaped to Bur- 
 gundy. After the time of Aubryot, the hotel became a sejour 
 of Louis d'Orl^ans, the builder of Pierrefonds, who created 
 the order of Porc-^pic. Then followed J. de Montaigu, 
 the Conndtable de Richemont, Estouteville, the Admiral 
 de Graville and the Conn^table de Montmorency, whose 
 widow sold it to the Cardinal de Bourbon, by whom it was 
 
PARIS 
 
 bequeathed to the Jesuits, after which it became a depend- 
 ance of their college, now Lyc^e Charlemagne. In the 
 plan of Paris of 1570, attributed to Du Cerceau, this h6tel 
 is inscribed as ' Logis du Preuost de Paris.' The build- 
 
 h6tel du pr^v6t de paris. 
 
 ings are of the time of Fran5ois I. They are very little 
 known and have therefore happily escaped ' restoration,' so 
 that their colour is glorious. In the dark arcades of the 
 court, the delicate friezes, broadly over-hanging eaves, 
 arched doorways, twisted staircase, brilliant flowers in the 
 
RUE CHARLEMAGNE 
 
 219 
 
 windows, bright glints of green seen through dark entries, 
 and figures and costumes full of colour — for such are still 
 to be seen in the Marais — an artist may find at least a 
 dozen subjects worthy of his skill. 
 
 IN THE hAtEL d'AUMONT, 
 
 The southern side of the Hotel du Prevot opens upon the 
 Rue Charlemagne, formerly Rue des Jardins S. Paul, where 
 there is much to repay a student of street architecture. In 
 this street Rabelais died and Molifere passed the first years of 
 his dramatic apprenticeship. In the court of the barrack 
 
220 PARIS 
 
 is a tower given by Charles VIII. to the nuns of the Ave 
 Maria. Crossing the Hue des Nonnains d'Hyeres, so called 
 from an offshoot of the Abbey of Hyeres established here in 
 1 182, we reach the Jiue de Jouy, where the Abbot of Jouy 
 
 -*i««;^ 
 
 GATE OF h6tEL DE LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 had his residence. Its site is now occupied by the Hotel 
 d'Au?7iont, built by Frangois Mansart for the Due d'Aumont. 
 It afterwards belonged to the Abb6 Terray. The courtyard 
 is magnificent, and there are several richly-decorated rooms, 
 though the splendid ceiling on which Lebrun represented 
 the apotheosis of Romulus is gone. Altogether this is one 
 
55. GERVAIS ET PROTAIS 221 
 
 of the finest hotels of the period in France. It is now 
 occupied as the Pharmacie Generale. In the garden was 
 once a Venus couchee, regarded as a masterpiece of 
 Auguier. 
 
 On the left opens the Rue Geoffroy d'Asnier, where we 
 find the Hotel de Chalons-Luxembourg, of the XVII. c, 
 with an entrance gate of noble proportions, Its little 
 courtyard of brick and stone is very richly decorated 
 with masks and pilasters after the fashion of the time. The 
 entrance is preceded by z. perron. 
 
 Almost opposite, down a narrow entry, we have a most 
 picturesque view of the back of the old Church of 
 S. Gervais : though at the end of the alley, as we emerge 
 into sunshine, we seem to enter upon a younger Paris, 
 and leave the narrow historic streets of the Marais. The 
 last of these, however, at the back of the church, is the 
 Rue des Barres, where the handsome Louis de Bourdon, 
 one of the lovers of Queen Isabeau de Bavifere, was met by 
 Charles VI., as he was on his way to his mistress. The 
 king ordered Tannegui du Chatel to arfest him, and he was 
 tried that night, sewn up in a sack, and thrown into the 
 Seine, with these words upon the sack — ' I.aissez passer la 
 justice du roi.'' 
 
 The church of ..96'. Gervais and FrOfais,"^ founded under 
 Childebert I. in the VI. c, is chiefly XVI. c. The Grecian 
 portico, intensely admired at the time of its erection, was 
 added in 1616 by the greatest architect of the time of 
 Louis XIII. — Jacques Debrosse. 
 
 ' Debrosse depensa des facultes tres-distinguees en essais mal- 
 heureux pour marier les trois ordres grecs superposes i un principe de 
 
 * Monstrelet, p. 244. ' Martyred at Milan under Nero. 
 
222 PARIS 
 
 construction incompatible avec la syst^me antique : le portail de S. 
 Gervais plaque contre une ^glise ogivale n'a pu gtre admire qu'a 
 
 une epoque oii Ton avait perdu la notion de I'harmonie dans I'art.' 
 
 Martin, ' Hist, de France. ' 
 
 ' S. Gervais, qu'un portail de bon goAt a gat^.' — Victor Hwo. 
 
 The gothic tower on the north had a classical story 
 added at the same time with the portico. The interior is 
 one of the best specimens of gothic architecture in Paris. 
 The XVIII. c. ornaments of the high-altar belonged 
 to the abbey church of S. Genevieve. The XVI. c. 
 stalls are the only ones of the kind in Paris. The sub- 
 jects on the mis'ericordes are exceedingly curious. The 
 second chapel of the choir contains a fine (restored) window 
 by Robert Pinaigrier, 1531. Only fragments remain of 
 glorious windows by Jean Cousin. In the chapel, right of 
 the apse, is the tomb, by Mazeline and Hurtelle, of the 
 Chancellor Michel le Tellier, 1685, preserved in the museum 
 of the Petits-Augustins during the Revolution. His son, 
 the Archbishop of Reims, the chancellors Louis Boucherat 
 and Charles Voysin, the painter Philippe de Champaigne, 
 the philosopher Ducange, and the poet Crdbillon, were 
 buried here in the vaults, but their tombs are destroyed. 
 The Lady Chapel, of 141 7, is a beautiful specimen of flam- 
 boyant gothic, spoilt by paint and gilding. The three win- 
 dows of the apse are attributed to Pinaigrier. The vaulting 
 is a chef-d'oeuvre. 
 
 ' Sans nous arr8ter davantage aux clefs pendantes, ni aux petits 
 anges qui se tiennent suspendus aux retomb&s, nous devons citer la 
 couronne tout evid^e i jour qui semble descendre de la voflte, comme 
 un splendide embl^me de celle que la Vierge a re9ue dans le ciel. 
 Elle a six pieds de diametre et trois pieds six pouces de saillie. 
 Nous Savons bien que le fer est ici venu en aide k I'adresse du con- 
 structeur. Mais il fallait encore beaucoup d'habilite pratique, meme 
 
SS. GERVAIS ET PROTAIS 223 
 
 avec ce secours, pour surmonter les difficultes de la taille et de la pose 
 d'une semblable decoration, comme I'ont fait les frferes Jacquet, qui 
 passaient d'ailleurs pour les plus ingenieux ina9ons de leur temps.. 
 Le date de 1547 se lit en lettres de relief sur les bords de la 
 couronne. Un donjon fortifi^ et des etoiles rappellent les litres de 
 Tour de David et d'Etoile du matin, que les litanies donnent k la 
 mere dej^sus.' — Be Guilhermy. 
 
 The chapel of S. Denis (left transept) has a picture 
 (1500), of many compartments, representing the Passion and 
 Crucifixion, attributed to Albert Durer. From the first 
 chapel of the nave (descending) is entered the oratory, 
 called the Chapelle de Scarron, built by Jacques Betaud, 
 President de la Cour des Comptes (1684), and adorned by 
 Francks with Scriptural subjects, the saints being repre- 
 sented in periwigs. Paul Scarron, first husband of Mme de 
 Maintenon, was buried here. In the chapel of S. Philo- 
 mfene the saint is represented in a grotto. The altar-piece 
 of the chapel of S. Laurence is XVI. c ; but all the best 
 pictures of the church have been carried off to the Louvre. 
 S. Gervais was one of the especial scenes of the Fete de la 
 Raison. 
 
 ' A S. Gervais, la cer^monie se fit sans banquet ; les femmes 
 du marche S. Jean y entroient avec leurs eventaires : toute I'^glise 
 sentoit le hareng. Des marchands de ptisailne tintoient leurs gobe- 
 lets, pour apaiser la soif du met sale. II y avoit bal dans la 
 chapelle de la Vierge ; quelques lumignons, qui r^pandoient plus de 
 fumee que de lumiere, servoient de lustres. En effet, pour ne point 
 laisser un seul instant a la pudeur, on ajouta la nuit i la depravation 
 afin qu'au milieu de la confusion de ces assemblees, les abominables 
 desirs, allumes pendant le jour, s'assouvissent librement durant les 
 tenfebres.' — Mercier, ' Le nouveau Paris.'' 
 
 A house, now pulled down, which concealed the view of 
 the portico of S. Gervais, was long inhabited by Voltaire. 
 The open space in front of S. Gervais was long known 
 
224 
 
 PARIS 
 
 as Place du Martroy. This name, with that of the Rue du 
 Martroy (from martreium, martyrium), commemorated the 
 many executions which took place there, beginning with a 
 
 AT THE BACK OF S. GERVAIS. 
 
 priest and a woman burnt for heresy and a relapsed Jew — 
 under Philippe le Bel ; followed (April 1314) by the horrible 
 execution of Philippe and Gauthier d'Aulnay, the supposed 
 lovers of Marguerite and Blanche, wives of Louis le Hutin 
 
HOTEL DE VILLE 225 
 
 and his brother and successor Charles — roasted, mutilated, 
 and finally beheaded. 
 
 We now reach the Hdtel de Ville, rebuilt by Ballu and 
 Deperthes after the destruction (May 24, 187 1) of its more 
 magnificent predecessor during the reign of the Commune, 
 which had been proclaimed there on the 26th of the pre- 
 ceding March. The name of the Salk S. Jean is all that 
 recalls the existence of the old church of S. Jean-en-Grfeve,^ 
 once the baptistery of S. Gervais, where the miraculous 
 Host of the Rue des Billettes was constantly adored, and 
 which was afterwards swallowed up in the buildings of the 
 municipal palace. 
 
 From Roman times Paris, or Lutfece, as a municipal 
 town, had administrators elected by the chief citizens, with 
 a pr^fet named by government, who afterwards took the 
 name of comte, then of vicomte. These early prdfets 
 resided on the Isle de la Citd, and the earliest municipa 
 council appears to have been the College des Nautes 
 (Bateliers), which held its meetings on the island, on the 
 site afterwards occupied by the Hotel des Ursins. It is 
 supposed, however, that the first building erected as a kind 
 of Hotel de Ville was an old edifice (only destroyed in 1 744) 
 near the Petit Pont. At the same time Le Parloir aux 
 Bourgeois, which existed in the Rue S. Jacques, was a 
 tribunal of commerce. 
 
 It was Etienne Marcel, mayor of Paris, who first esta- 
 blished the municipal council at the Place de Grbve, at that 
 time the only large square in Paris. In July 1357 he pur- 
 
 ' Famous in 1508 for the revivalist sermons of Fr^re Maillard, the Savonarola of 
 France. His vigorous, fearless discourses {Maillardi Sermones) are well worth ex- 
 amining, as an exposure of the luxury and licentiousness of the time, especially 
 amongst the clergy. 
 
226 PARIS 
 
 chased as un Hostel de Ville the Maison aux Piliers, which 
 had been inhabited by Cldmence d'Hongrie, widow of Louis 
 le Hutin, and which afterwards took the name of Maison 
 du Dauphin (' Domus domini Delphini in Grieve ') from her 
 nephew and heir, Guy, Dauphin de Viennois. In 1532 a 
 new H6tel de Ville was begun, and finished by the architect 
 Marin de la Vallde, in the reign of Henri IV. This was so 
 much altered by successive restorations and revolutions that 
 only a staircase, two monumental chimney-pieces in the 
 Salle du Trone, and some sculptured doorways and other 
 details remained from the interior decorations in the old 
 building at the time of its destruction. 
 
 Till the time of Louis XVI. the history of the Hotel de 
 Ville was entirely local ; after that it became the history of 
 France. It was there that Louis XVI. received the tri- 
 coloured cockade from Bailly, mayor of Paris, July 17, 1789 ; 
 and there, in the chamber called, from its hangings, Le 
 Cabinet Vert,' that Robespierre was arrested, in the name 
 of the Convention, during one of the meetings of the Com- 
 mune, July 27, 1794. 
 
 ' Here, in the great hall, the Robespierrists awaited in silence the 
 result of the appeal to the sections. Robespierre and his more imme- 
 diate friends had withdrawn to an adjoining room for private conversa- 
 tion. Suddenly several shots were heard in the hall, and a terrible 
 report spread like wildfire that Robespierre had taken his own life. 
 On receiving the intelligence that the National Guard had everywhere 
 decided for the Convention, S. Just and Lebas called on their chief 
 to go forth in person' and lead his few faithful followers to attack the 
 Convention. When Robespierre, broken in spirit, refused compliance, 
 Lebas, who on the previous day had already expected an unfavourable 
 issue, cried, " Well, then, there is nothing left for us but to die." He 
 had a pair of pistols with him, one of which he handed to Robes- 
 
 ^ This famous room was pulled down before the destruction of the late Hotel de 
 Ville. 
 
HOTEL DE VILLE 227 
 
 pierre, and shot himself with the other at the same moment. S. Just 
 remained on this occasion and during the whole day la a state of 
 gloomy repose, but Robespierre put his weapon to his mouth and 
 pulled the trigger with an unsteady finger ; in his hesitation he 
 shattered his chin, but did not wound himself mortally. Almost at the 
 same moment Leonard Bourdon led his troops into the HStel de Ville, 
 where the city party, in their wild confusion and despair, were unable 
 to decide on any common course of action. The younger brother of 
 Robespierre jumped out of the window to the pavement, but was still 
 alive when he was seized below. Henriot was shot through the panes 
 by one of his own party who was enraged at his want of self-posses- 
 sion, and fell upon a heap of rubbish only slightly wounded. They 
 were all arrested within a few minutes. After the declaration of out- 
 lawry there was no need of any further judicial proceedings, but it 
 was not until the afternoon that the preparations for their execution had 
 been completed. Robespierre had been laid on a table, with a box under 
 his wounded head ; he remained still and silent, and only moved to 
 wipe the blood, which flowed copiously from his face, with pieces of 
 paper ; he heard nothing about him but words of wrath and triumph, 
 yet he never moved a muscle, and regarded his persecutors with fixed 
 and glassy eyes. At last the carts arrived to bear him and his twenty- 
 one companions to the place of execution. On the scaffold the execu- 
 tioner tore away the scanty bandage from his head, and then he uttered 
 a shrill cry of pain, the first sound which had proceeded from him 
 since his arrest, and the last. On the following day seventy-one 
 members of the municipality followed him to death : the Reign of 
 Terror ended in a terrible sea of blood.' — Heinrich von Syhel, ^ Hist, 
 of the Revolution. ' 
 
 After the fall of Robespierre it was seriously proposed 
 to pull down the Hotel de Ville, because it had been his 
 last asylum — ' Le Louvre de Robespierre.' It was only 
 saved by the common-sense of Ldonard Bourdon. 
 
 But most of all, in the popular recollection, is the Hotel 
 de Ville connected with public fetes— with those on the 
 second marriage of Napoleon I. (1810), on the entry of 
 Louis XVIIL (18 14), on the coronation of Charles X. 
 (1825), on the marriage of the Duke of Orleans (1837), on 
 
 Q2 
 
228 PARIS 
 
 the visits of different foreign potentates to Napoleon III. 
 Here also was the Republic proclaimed, September 4, 1870. 
 
 It was in one of the windows of the Hotel de Ville that 
 Louis Phihppe embraced Lafayette (August 1830) in sight 
 of the people, to evince the union of the July monarchy 
 with the bourgeoisie. On the steps of the building Louis 
 Blanc proclaimed the Republic, February 24, 1848. From 
 September 4, 1870, to February 28, 187 1, the hotel was the 
 seat of the ' gouvernement de la defense nationale,' and from 
 March 19 to May 22, 1871, that of the pretended 'Comity 
 du salut public ' of the Communists. On May 24 it was 
 burnt by its savage defenders, many of whom happily 
 perished in. the flames. 
 
 The Flace de FHotel de Ville is so modernised that it 
 retains nothing of the Place de Grfeve but its terrible historic 
 associations. Amongst the many fearful executions here, 
 it is only necessary to recall that of Jean Hardi, torn to 
 pieces by four horses (March 30, 1473) on an accusation of 
 trying to poison Louis XI. ; that of the Comte de S. Pol 
 (December 19, 1475), long commemorated by a pillar ; 
 those of a long list of Protestants, opened by the auto^de-fd 
 of Jacques de Povanes, student of the University, in 1525 ; 
 that of Nicolas de Salcfede, Sieur d'Auvillers, torn to pieces 
 by four horses in the presence of the king and queens, for 
 conspiracy to murder the Due d'Anjou, youngest son of 
 Catherine de Medicis. More terrible still was the execution 
 of Ravaillac (May 27, 1610), murderer of Henri IV. 
 
 ' Le bourreau lui trancha la main d'un coup de hache, et la jeta au 
 feu avec le couteau meurtrier ; 11 le tenailla aux mamelles, aux Ijras, 
 aux jambes, et versa dans les plaies ouvertes de I'huile bouillante 
 et du plomb fondu. Ensuite il fut demembre , par quatre forts 
 chevaux qui ne tirtent pas moins d'une heure entiere. lis ne de- 
 
PLACE DE n HOTEL DE VILLE 229 
 
 membrerent qu'un cadavre. " II avait expir^," dit I'Estoile, " k la 
 deuxi^me ou troisi^me tirade ! Quand le bourreau dut jeter les 
 raembres dans le bflcher, pour que les cendfes, suivant la sentence, 
 en fussent livrfes au vent, la foule enti^re se precipita pour les 
 lui disputer." "Mais," dit le meme chroniqueur, " le peuple se 
 ruant imp^tueusement dessus, n'y eut fils de bonne mire qui n'en 
 voulAt avoir sa pitee, jusqu'aux enfants, qui en firent du feu au coin 
 des rues. " ' — Paris h trovers les &ges. 
 
 The next great execution here was that of Leonora 
 Galigai, Mar^chale d'Ancre, foster-sister of Marie de 
 Medicis, beheaded, crying, ' Oim6 poveretta ! ' Then came 
 three noble young men, a Montmorency, a Bouteville, and 
 a Des Chapelles, executed for having fought in the duel of 
 three against three, June 27, 1627. The Mardchal de 
 Marillac, executed by Richelieu, was allowed to suifer upon 
 a scaffold on the steps of the Hotel de Ville. Under 
 Louis XIV. came the execution of the Marquise de Brin- 
 villiers, of whom Mme de Sdvign^ wrote (in allusion to her 
 ashes being thrown to the winds) : ' Enfin, e'en est fait, 
 la Brinvilliers est en I'air.' March 28, 1757, was marked 
 by the horrible execution of Damiens, the fanatic who tried 
 to kill Louis XV. 
 
 ' Le dit condamne, lisons-nous dans le prQC_is-verbal du grefiBer, a 
 ete lie sur I'echafaud, oil d'abord il a eu la main brfllee, tenant en icelle 
 le couteau avec lequel il a coramis son parricide, . . . il a ete tenaille 
 aux mamelles, bras, cuisses et gras des jambes, et sur les dits endroits 
 a ^t^ jete du plomb fondu, de I'huile bouillante, de la poix resine, et 
 du souiJire fondu ensemble, pendant tout lequel supplice le condamne 
 s'est ecri^ k plusieurs fois : " Mon Dieu, la force, la force ! Seigneur, 
 mon Dieu, ayez pitie de moi ! Seigneur, mon Dieu, que je souffre ! 
 Seigneur, mon Dieu, donnez-moi la patience ! " Ensuite, il a ^te 
 tire k quatre chevaux, et apris plusieurs secousses a et^ demembr^, et 
 ses membres et corps mort jetes sur le bficher.' — Paris d travers les 
 dges. 
 
 After the capture of the Bastille its brave governor, 
 
230 PARIS 
 
 M. de Launay, was beheaded on the steps of the Hotel de 
 Ville, and his major, M. de Losme-Salbray, was massacred 
 under the Arcade S. Jean. These were the first victims of 
 the Revolution. Foulon, Intendant du Commerce, suffered 
 here soon afterwards, hung from the cords by which a lamp 
 was suspended, whence the expression, which soon resounded 
 in many a popular refrain, of ' mettre les aristocrats k la 
 lanterne ' — especially in the famous ' carillon national : ' ' 
 
 ' Ah ! 5a ira, 5a ira, (ja ira, 
 
 Les aristocrate' a la lanterne ! 
 
 Ah ! 5a ira, 5a ira, 5a ira, 
 
 Les aristocrate', on les pendra. ' 
 
 ' On avail conduit I'ex-ministre Foulon k I'hStel de ville. II etait 
 abhorr^ du peuple ; on lui reprochait les malversations dans la guerre 
 de sept ans, une grande durete de caractfere et ce propos invraisembla- 
 ble " que le peuple serait trop heureux qu'on lui donnSt du foin k 
 manger." . . . On voit par le proces-verbal des ^lecteurs quels 
 furent les efforts de La Fayette pour soustraire ce malheureux a I'inex- 
 primable rage de la multitude, et il est impossible de savoir ce qui serait 
 arrive, lorsque les cris les plus effrayants sont partis de la place de 
 I'hStel de ville. Plusieurs voix, a I'extremite de la salle, ont annonc^ 
 que le Palais-Royal et le faubourg S. Antoine venaient enlever le 
 prisonnier. Les escaliers et tous les passages de I'hStel de ville out 
 retenti des cris epouvantables. Une foule nouvelle est venue presser la 
 foule qui remplissait dejk la grande salle ; tous se sont ebranl& i la 
 fois, tous se sont port& avec impetuosite vers le bureau et vers la table 
 sur laquelle M. . Foulon etait assis. La chaise s'ebranlait ; elle itait 
 renversee ; lorsque M. de la Fayette a prononcd i haute voix : " Qu'on 
 le conduise en prison ! " 
 
 ' A ce r^cit, qui est exact, il faut ajouter que La Fayette, apr^s 
 avoir essay^ encore une fois d'apaiser la multitude, obtenait des ap- 
 plaudisseroents tumultueux, quand Foulon eut la funeste idee d'applaudir 
 lui-mtoe. Une voix s'&ria : " Voyez-vous, ils s'entendent ! " Aces 
 mots, Foulon, arrache aux mains des ^lecteurs qui I'entouraient et 
 cherchaient h. le garantir, fut entrain^ et massacr^ k la Gr^ve sans qu'il 
 y eut pour La Fayette la possibility physique, je ne dis pas de le pro- 
 teger, mais mSrae de se faire entendre,' — La Fayette, ' M^moires,' 
 ' Sung at ' Id, premiere Fid^ration,' July 14, 1790, 
 
TOUR DE S. JACQUES 231 
 
 Louvel, the murderer of the Due de Berry, was the last 
 person executed at the Place de Grfeve, his last request 
 having been granted, that he might go into mourning for 
 himself ! 
 
 It was here that a pig ran between the legs of the horse 
 which the young king Philippe (son of Louis le Gros) was 
 riding, and caused the fall of which he died the next day 
 (October 1131), in consequence of which it was forbidden 
 to anyone to let his pigs wander in the streets, those of 
 the abbey of S. Antoine only being excepted, out of respect 
 to their patron saint.' 
 
 The Pont de la Grfeve is now the Pont d'Arcole. 
 
 ' Le 28 juillet, 1830, lors de I'attaque de I'hotel de ville par les 
 Parisiens, un jeune homme, faisant partie d'un groupe de combattants 
 qui tiraient de la Cite sur la place de Gr^ve, s'elanfa sur le pont et 
 presque aussitot tomba mortellement frapp^, en s'ecriant : " Souvenez- 
 vous que je m'appelle d'Arcole 1 Verite ou legende improvisee par 
 I'imagination populaire, ce fait a valu au pont le nom qu'il porte en- 
 core. ' — FricUric Lock. 
 
 Now the magnificent Tour de S.Jacques rises before us. 
 It is the only remnant of a great church — S. Jacques de la 
 Boucherie, which formerly gave sanctuary to murderers. 
 The church dated from the XI. c. to the XV. c, but was 
 sold and pulled down during the Revolution. The tower, 
 which dates from the reign of Louis XII., 1508-22, is the 
 finest in Paris. It looked far better, however, when rising 
 from a group of houses, than on the meaningless platform 
 which now surrounds it, and, unfortunately, instead of re- 
 storing the old chapel of S. Quentin, which formerly existed 
 beneath it, the tower has been used as a canopy for a feeble 
 Statue of Pascal by Cavelier, placed here because from hence 
 
 Saint-Foix. Essais hist, sjtr Paris. 
 
232 PARIS 
 
 he continued his experiments on the weight of the air, begun 
 in the Puy-de-D6me. There is a fine view from the summit 
 of the tower, where the north-west pinnacle is surmounted 
 by a statue of S. James the Great by Rault, the others by 
 the mystic animals of the Evangelists ; a spire thirty feet 
 high once crowned the whole. Different confraternities had 
 their chapels in the church. In that of the spur-makers, 
 both on the windows and cornice, were representations of 
 the XV. c. philanthropist Nicolas Flamel, who was buried 
 here (1417) with his wife P^renelle (1397).^ his curious 
 gravestone is now in the Hotel de Cluny with an epitaph 
 ending in the lines — 
 
 ' De terre je suis venu et en terre retorne, 
 L'^me rends ^ toi J.H.S. qui les p&hi^s pardonne.' ' 
 
 The Boulevard de S^bastopol now leads past the tower 
 to the Place du ChAtelet, where the ugly Fontaine de la Vic- 
 toire, designed by Bralle, marks the site of the picturesque 
 and curious old fortress of Le Grand Chatelet, through which 
 a vaulted passage formed the approach to the Rue S. Denis 
 from the Pont du Change, formerly lined with hpuses. 
 The fortress, which had a massive tower at the north-east 
 angle, was of considerable size, and inclosed several court- 
 yards, surrounded by prisons, known by familiar and often 
 very terrible names. The horrors of the prisons and of the 
 torture chamber of the Chatelet were portrayed in the verses 
 of Clement Marot and in endless engravings and ballads, 
 
 ^ It was long believed in Paris that Nicolas and P^renelle were not really dead. 
 It was said that they had feigned sickness, caused two logs of wood to be buried in 
 their place, and escaped to Switzerland, thence to Asia Minor, where Paul Lucas, a 
 traveller of the end of the XVII. c, affirms that he met a dervish who had recently 
 seen them and knew them intimately. See Voyage de Paul Lucas dans FAsie- 
 MineurS, vol. ii. ch. i?, - 
 
LE PONT A U CHA-NGE 233 
 
 through a long course of years. In the crypt, under ' le 
 pfere des lettres,' Frangois I., ' on donnait aux imprimeurs 
 relaps la question k seize crans.' On September 2, 1792, 
 214 prisoners were massacred in the Chatelet. Within the 
 vaulted passage, on entering from the river, was a morgue, 
 predecessor of that now existing on the island. 
 
 Between the Chatelet and the bridge, on the east side, 
 were, first, a ' Parloir aux Bourgeois,' in which municipal 
 meetings were held, and then the church of S. Leuffroi, 
 which dated from 11 13. The monies of the abbey of 
 S. Croix de Leuffroi in the diocese of Evreux, had brought 
 hither the bodies of SS. Leuffroi and Thuriaf to preserve 
 them from the Normans. When the danger was over they 
 reclaimed their relics, but could only obtain an arm of 
 S. Thuriaf The church was rebuilt in the XIV. c, but 
 was pulled down in 1684 to enlarge the prisons of 
 the Chatelet. In the last century a narrow street called 
 Rue Trop-va-qui-dure (an inexplicable name) ran between 
 the front of the Chatelet with its great round towers, and a 
 block of buildings called the Pointe du Pont au Change, on 
 the front of which, facing down the bridge, was a curious 
 monument to Louis XIII., on which he was represented 
 with Anne of Austria and Louis XIV. as an infant. 
 
 The money-changers took possession of the Grand Pont 
 in the middle of the XII. c, after which it received the 
 name of the Pont au Change. Here, in accordance with 
 an old custom, when a sovereign made his first public entry 
 into Paris, the bird-sellers were bound to give liberty to 
 2,400 birds, ' so that the air was darkened by the beating of 
 their wings.' The bridge was rebuilt in 1639, and is the 
 widest of the Parisian bridges. 
 
234 PARIS 
 
 The Avenue Victoria, which runs behind the site of the 
 Chitelet, crosses (a little to the north-west) the site of the 
 Hotel du Chevalier du Guet, a curious gothic building, dating 
 from the time of S. Louis, and used as a mairie, till its most 
 deplorable destruction in 1864. A little further, in the Rue 
 des Orffevres, a narrow street between this and S. Germain 
 I'Auxerrois, stood the Chapelle S. Eloy, dating from 1403, 
 but rebuilt by Phihbert Delorme, with ornaments by Ger- 
 main Pilon. It was sold in the Revolution. 
 
 A house behind the Quai de la Mdgisserie, at the corner 
 of Rue Bertin-Poirde and Rue S. Germain I'Auxerrois, 
 stands on the substructions of For I'Eveque (Forum Epi- 
 scopi),' the seat of the temporal Jurisdi'ction of the bishops 
 of Paris. Here the bishop's provost inflicted his sen- 
 tences. If people were to be burned alive it must be out- 
 side the banlieue of Paris, but if only their ears were to be 
 cut off it would be executed at the Place du Trahoir. Du 
 Chastel, who tried to murder Henri IV. at the Hotel du 
 Bouchage, was imprisoned here. For I'Eveque was sup- 
 pressed under Louis XVI. by the advice of Necker. 
 
 The Flace du Chatelet is the point where curious visitors 
 usually enter Subterranean Paris, with its vast system of 
 sewers (f gouts). They are generally shown once every week 
 in summer. Visitors must make a written application to 
 the Prefet de la Seine, who will send a card of admittance 
 announcing the time and starting-point. The ramifications 
 of the vast system by which the drainage of Paris is con- 
 ducted are a very curious sight, and evil odours are not 
 much to be dreaded. 
 
 ^ Adrien de Valois says that the name came from the Four I'Eveque, because there 
 was an oven here whither the bishop's vassals came to hake their bread. 
 
LES EGO UTS 235 
 
 ' Le creusement de I'egout de Paris n'a pas ^t^ une petite besogne. 
 Les dix demiers siecles y ont travaill^ sans le pouvoir terminer, pas 
 plus qu'ils n'ont pu finir Paris. L'^gout, en effet, refoit tons les contre- 
 coups de la croissance de Paris. C'est, dans la terre, une soite de 
 polype sous en m^me temps que la ville dessps. Chaque fois que la 
 ville perce une rue, I'egout allonge un bras. La vieille monarchic 
 n'avait construit que vingt-trois mille trois cents metres d'^gouts ; c'est 
 la que Paris en etait le I" Janvier 1806. A partir de cetje ^poque, 
 I'oeuvre adte utilement et energiquement reprise et continuee ; Napoleon 
 a bati, les chiSres sont curieux, quatre miUe huit cent quatre metres ; 
 Louis XVIII., cinq mille sept cent neuf ; Charles X., dix mille huit 
 cent trente-six ; Louis-Philippe, quatre-vingt-neuf mille vingt ; la 
 republique de 1848, vingt-trois mille trois cent quatre-vingt-un ; le 
 regime actuel [1862], soixante-dix mille cinq cents ; en tout, a I'heure 
 qu'il est, deux cent vingt-six mille six cent dix metres ; soixante lieues 
 d'egouts ; entrailles inormes de Paris. Ramification obscure toujours 
 en travail ; construction ignor^e et immense. 
 
 ' Aujourd'hui I'egout est propre, froid, droit, correct. II r&lise 
 presque I'ideal de ce qu'on entend en Angleterre par le mot " respect.! 
 able." II est convenable et grisatre ; tire au cordeau ; on pourrait 
 presque dire k quatre ^pingles. II ressemble k un foumisseur devenu 
 conseiller d'Etat. On y voit presque clair. La fange s'y comporte 
 decemment, Au premier abord, oii le prendrait volon tiers pour un de 
 ces corridors souterrains si communs jadis et si utiles aux fuites des 
 monarques et des princes, dans cet ancien temps "oil le peuple aimait 
 ses rois." L'egout actuel est un bel ^gout ; le style pur, chass^ de la 
 poesie, parait s'etre r^fugie dans I'architecture, semble mele i toutes 
 les pierres de cette longue voute tenebreuse et blanchatre; chaque 
 degorgeoir est une arcade ; la rue de Rivoli fait ecole jusque dans le 
 cloaque. Au reste, si la ligne geom^trique est quelque part i sa 
 place, c'est 4 coup sur dans la tranch^e stercoraire d'une grande 
 ville. La, tout doit etre subordonn^ au chemin le plus court, 
 L'egout a pris aujourd'hui un certain aspect officiel. Les rapports 
 m§mes de police dont il est quelquefois I'objet ne lui manquent 
 plus de respect. Les mots qui le caract^risent dans le langage 
 ndministratif sont releves et dignes. Ce qu'on appelait boyau, on 
 I'appelle galerie ; ce qu'on appelait trou, on I'appelle regard. Ce 
 reseau de caves a bien toujours son immemoriale population de ron- 
 geurs, plus puUulante que jamais ; de temps en temps, un rat, vieille 
 moustache, risque sa t6te a la fenetre de l'egout et examine les Parisiens; 
 mais cette vermine elle-meme s'apprivoise, satisfaite qu'elle est de son 
 
236 PARIS 
 
 palais souterrain. Le cloaque n'a plus rien de sa ferodte, primitive. 
 La pluie, qui salissait I'^gout d'autrefois, lave I'egout d'k present. Ne 
 vous fiez pas trop pourtant. Les niiasmes I'habitent encore. II est 
 plutSt hypocrite qu'irreprochable. La prefecture de police et la com- 
 mission de salubrite ont eu beau faire. En depit de tous les precedes 
 d'assainissement, il exhale une vague odeur suspecte, comme Tartufe 
 apr^s la confession.' — Victor Hugo, ' Les Misirabks.' 
 
 Zola describes the marvellous effects of sunset which so 
 many will have admired from the quays on this side of the 
 Seine. 
 
 ' Par les jours de ciel clair, dis qu'ils d^bouchaient du pont Louis- 
 Philippe, toute la troupe des quais, immense, i I'infini, se d^roulait. 
 D'un bout i I'autre, le soleil oblique chauffait d'une poussi^re d'or les 
 maisons de la rive droite ; tandis que la rive gauche, les ties, les 
 edifices, se d^coupaient en une ligne noire, sur la gloire enflamm^e du 
 couchant. Entre cette marge ^clatante et cette marge sombre, la Seine 
 pailletee luisait, couple des barres minces de ses ponts, les cinq arches 
 du pont Notre-Dame sous I'arche unique du pont d'Arcole, puis le 
 pont au Change, puis le Pont-Neuf, de plus en plus fins, montrant 
 chacun, au deli de son ombre, un vif coup de lumifere, une eau en 
 satin bleu, blanchissant dans un reflet de miroir; et, pendant que les 
 d&oupures cr^pusculaires de gauche se terminaient par la silhouette 
 des tours pointues du Palais-de-Justice, charbonnees durement sur le 
 vide, une courbe molle s'arrondissait a droite dans la clarte, si allongee 
 et si perdue, que le pavilion de Flore, tout Ik-bas, qui s'avanjait comme 
 une citadelle, i I'extrtoe pointe, semblait un chateau du r8ve, bleuatre, 
 leger et tremblant, au milieu des fum^es roses de Thoriron. Mais eux, 
 baign^s de soleil sous les platanes sans feuilles, detournaient les yeux 
 de cet eblouissenient, s'^gayaient i certains coins, toujours les mSmes, 
 un surtout, le pate de maisons tr^s-vieilles, au-dessus du Mail ; en bas, 
 de petites boutiques de quincaillerie et d'articles de p&he i un etage, 
 surmonttes de terrasses, tieuries de lauriers et de vignes vierges, et, 
 par derriere, des maisons plus hautes, delabrees, etalant des linges aux 
 fenetres, tout un entassement de constructions baroques, un enchev^tre- 
 ment de planches et de mafonneries, de murs croulants et de jardins 
 suspendues, oil des boules de verre allumaient des etoiles. lis mar- 
 chaient, ils laispaient bient6t les grands batiments qui suivaient, la 
 caserne, l'H6tel-de-Ville, pour s'int^resser, de I'autre c6te du fieuve, 
 i la Cite, serree dans ses murailles droites et lisses, sans berge. Au- 
 
THE QUAYS OF THE SEINE lyj 
 
 dessus des maisons assombries, les tours de Notre-Dame, resplendis- 
 santes, ^taient comme dories i neuf. Des boJtes de bouquinistes com- 
 inen9aient a envahir les parapets ; une pteiche, charg& de charbon, 
 luttait centre le courarit terrible, sous une arche du pont Notre-Dame. 
 Et Ik, les jours de march^ aux fleurs, malgr^ la rudesse de la saison, 
 ils s'arr^taient \ respirer les premieres violettes et les giroflees hatives. 
 Sur la gauche, cependant, la rive se d^couvrait et se prolongeait ; au 
 delk des poivri^res du Palais de-Justice, avaient paru les petites maisons 
 blafardes du quai de I'Horloge, jusqu'k la touffe d'arbres du terre- 
 plein ; puis, i mesure qu'ils avanfaient, d'autres quais sortaient de 
 la brume, tr^s loin, le quai Voltaire, le quai Malaquais, la coupole de 
 rinstitut, le bStiment carr^ de la Monnaie, une longue barre grise de 
 facades dont on ne distinguait pas mgme les fenetres, un promontoire de 
 toitures que les poteries des chemin^es faisaient ressenibler a une 
 falaise rocheuse, s'enfongant au milieu d'une mer phospborescente. 
 En face, au contraire, le pavilion de Flore sortait du reve, et se solidi- 
 fiait dans la flambee derni^re de I'astre. Alors, a droite, h. gauche, aux 
 deux bords de I'eau, c'dtaient les profondes perspectives du boulevard 
 Sebastopol et du boulevard du Palais ; c'etaient les bitisses neuves du 
 quai de la Megisserie, la nouvelle Prefecture de police en face, le vieux 
 Pont-Neuf, avec la tache d'encre de sa statue ; c'etaient le Louvre, les 
 Tuileries, puis, au pont, par-dessus Crenelle, les lointains sans borne, 
 les coteaux de Sevres, la campagne noyee d'un ruissellement de rayons.' 
 L' CEuvre. . 
 
238 PARIS 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE FAUBOURG S. ANTOINE AND PERE-LACHAISE. 
 
 THE Faubourg S. Antoine has always borne an active 
 part in the different revolutions. It vras at the 
 entrance of the street bearing the name, on the left of the 
 Place de la Bastille, that the great barricade of June 1848 
 was erected. 
 
 ' La barricade Saint-Antoine etait monstrueuse ; elle etait haute de 
 trois Stages et large de sept cents pieds. Elle barrait d'un angle k I'autre 
 la vaste embouchure du faubourg, c'est-a-dire trois rues ; ravinee, 
 dechiquetee, dentelee, hachfe, crenelee d'une immense d^chirure, 
 contre-buttee de monceaux qui ^taient eux-mimes des bastions, poussant 
 des caps 5k et Ik, puissamment adoss^e aux deux grands promontoires de 
 maisons de faubourg, elle surgissait comma une levee cyclopeenne au 
 fond de la redoutable place qui a vu le 14 julllet. Dix-neuf barricades 
 s'etageaient dans la profondeur des rues derriere cette barricade-m^re. 
 Rien qu'k la voir, on sentait dans le faubourg I'immense soufifrance 
 agonisante, arriv^e k cette minute extreme 011 une detresse veut devenir 
 une catastrophe. De quoi etait faite cette barricade ? De I'ecroulement 
 de trois maisons k six etages, demolles expres, disaient les uns. Du 
 prodige de toutes les col^res, disaient les autres. Elle avait I'aspect 
 lamentable de toutes les constructions de la haine : la Ruine. On 
 pouvait dire : Qui a bati cela ? On pouvait dire aussi : Qui a d^truit 
 cela ? C'^tait I'improvisation du bouillonnemcut. Tiens ! cette porte ! 
 cette grille ! cet auvent ! ce chambranle ! ce rechaud bris^ ! cette 
 marmite felee ! Donnez tout ! jetez tout ! poussez, roulez, piochez, 
 deinanlelez, bouleversez, &roulez tout ! C'etait la collaboration du 
 pav^, du moellon, de la poutre, de la barre de fer, du chiffon, du 
 
LE FAUBOURG S. ANTOINE 239 
 
 carreaudffonc^, de la chaise d^paillee, du trognon de choux, de la loque, 
 de la guenille et ^de la malediction, C'^tait grand et c'etait petit. 
 C'^tait I'abtme parodi^ sur place par le tohubohu. La masse pr^s de 
 I'atome ; le pan de mur arrach^ et I'&uelle cass^e ; una fraternisation 
 mena9ante de tons les debris ; Sisyphe avait jet^ Ik son rocher et Job 
 son tesson. En somme, terrible. C'etait I'acropole des va-nu-pieds. 
 Les charrettes renvers^es accidentaient le talus ; un immense baquet 
 y ^tait.^tale, au travers, I'essieu vers le ciel, et semblait une balafre sur 
 cette fa9ade tumultueuse ; un omnibus, hiss6 gaiment k force de bras 
 tout au sommet de I'entassement, comme si les architectes de cette 
 sauvagerie eussent voulu ajouter la gaminerie a I'ipouvante, offrait sun 
 timon d^tele \ on ne salt quels chevaux de Fair. Cet amas gigantesque, 
 alluvion de I'^meute, figurait a I'esprit un Ossa sur Pflion de toutes les 
 revolutions ; 93 sur 89, le 9 thermidor sur le 10 ao\it, le 18 brumaire 
 sur le 21 Janvier, vend^miaire sur prairial, 184S sur 1830. La place en 
 valait la peine, et cette barricade itait digne d'apparattre a I'endroit 
 mSme oil la Ba!;tille avait disparu. Si I'oc^an fai^ait des digues, c'est ainsi 
 qu'il les batirait. La furie du flot ^tait empreinte sur cet encombre- 
 ment difforme. Quel flot ? La foule. On croyait voir le vacarme 
 petrifi^. On croyait entendre bourdonner, au-dessus de cette barricade, 
 comme si elles eussent ete Ik sur leurs ruches, les enormes abeilles t^ne- 
 breuseS du progrfes violent. Etait-ce une broussaille ? ^tait-ce une 
 bacchanale ? etait-ce une forteresse ? Le vertige semblait avoir con- 
 struit cela k coups d'aile. II y avait du cloaque dans cette redoute et 
 quelque chose d'olympien dans ce fouillis. On y voyait, dans un p^le- 
 mele plein de desespoir, des chevrons de toits, des raorceaux de man- 
 sardes avec leur papier peint, des chassis de fen6tres avec toutes leurs 
 vitres plant^s dans les d&ombres, attendant le canon, des cheminees 
 descell^es, des armoires, des tables, des bancs, un sens dessus-dessous 
 hurlant, et ces mille choses indigentes, rebuts meme du mendiant, qui 
 contiennent k la fois de la fureur et du n^ant. On eut dit que c'etait 
 le haillon d'un peuple, haillon de bois, de fer, de bronze, de pierre, et 
 que le faubourg Saint-Antoine I'avait pousse Ik k sa porte d'un colossal 
 coup de balai, faisant de sa misere sa barricade. Des blocs pareils k des 
 billots, des chaines disloqu^es, des charpentes i tasseaux ayant forme de 
 potences, des roues horizontales sortant des decombres, amalgamaient 
 k cet edifice de I'anarchie la sombre figure des vieux supplices soufferts 
 par le peuple. La barricade Saint-Antoine faisait arme de tout ; tout 
 ce que la guerre civile pent jeter k la t6te de la soci^te sortait de )a ; 
 ce n'etait pas du combat, c'etait du paroxysme ; les carabines qui de- 
 fendaient cette redoute, parmi lesquelles il y avait quelques espingoles, 
 
240 PARIS 
 
 envoyaient des miettes de faience, des osselets, des boutons d'habit, 
 jusqu'k des roulettes de tables de nuit, projectiles dangereux a cause 
 du cuivre. Cette barricade etait forcenee ; elle jetait dansles naees une 
 clameur inexprimable ; a de certains moments, provoquant I'armee, 
 elle se ccuvrait de foule et de tempete ; une cohue de tgtes flamboyantes 
 la couronnait ; un fourmillement Teniplissait ; elle avail une crgte 
 epineuse de fusils, de sabres, de batons, de baches, de piques et de 
 baionnettes ; un vaste drapeau rouge y claquait dans le vent ; on y 
 entendait les cris du commandement, les chansons d'attaque, des roule- 
 ments du tambour, des sanglots de femme et I'eclat de rire tenebreux 
 des meurt-de-faim. Elle etait d^mesuree et vivante ; et, comme du 
 dos d'une bete ^lectrique, il en sortait un p^tillemenf de foudres. 
 L'esprit de revolution couvrait de son nuage le sommet ou grondait 
 cette voix du peuple qui ressemble ^ la voix de Dieu ; une majesty 
 Strange se degageait de cette titanique hottee de gravats. C'^tait un 
 tas d'ordures et c'etait le Sina'i. ' — Victor Hugo, ' Les Misirables. ' 
 
 On the third day of the contest at the barricade, Arch- 
 bishop Affre, whilst exhorting the people to peace, was 
 killed on this spot by a ball from one of the insurgents. 
 He was carried to the hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, escorted 
 by some of the Gardes Mobiles. To one of these, whom 
 he recognised as having fought with especial bravery — one 
 Frangois Delavriguifere — the dying prelate gave a little cru- 
 cifix which he wore, saying, ' Never part with this cross ; 
 lay it on your heart ; it will make you happy.' ' 
 
 This same spot was one of the last strongholds of the 
 Communists, and was only taken by the Versailles troops 
 after a desperate conflict, May 25, 1871. 
 
 ' Ce vieux faubourg, peupl^ comme une fourrailliere, laborieux, 
 courageux et colere comme une ruche, re9oit le contre-coup des crises 
 comnierciales, des faillites, des graves, des chomages, inherents aux 
 grands ftranlements politiques. En temps de revolution la misere est 
 a la fois cause et effet. Le coup qu'elle frappe lui revient. Cette popu- 
 lation, pleine de vertu fi^re, capable au plus haut point de calorique 
 latent, toujours prete aux prises d'armes, prompte aux explosions, 
 ^ Constitziiiontiel, 
 
LA ROQUETTE 241 
 
 irrit^e, prpfonde, min^e, semblait n'attendre que la chute d'une 
 flamm^che. Toutes les fois que de certaines etincelles flottent sur 
 I'horizon, chass^es par le vent des evenements, on ne peut s'empecher 
 de songer au faubourg Saint-Antoine et au redoutable hasard qui aplac^ 
 aux portes de Paris cette poudriere de souffrances et d'idees. 
 
 ' Les cabarets An faubourg Antoine ont une notoriety historique. En 
 temps de troubles on s'y enivre de paroles plus que de vin. Une sorte 
 d'esprit prophetique et un effluve d'avenir y cir-culent, enflant les coeurs 
 et grandissant les &mes. 
 
 ' Le faubourg Saint-Antoine est un r&ervoir de peuple. L'^branle- 
 ment rdvolutionnaire y fait des fissures par ou coule la souverainet^ 
 populaire. Cette souverainet^ peut mal faire ; elle se trompe comme 
 toute autre ; mais, m6me fourvoy^e, elle reste grande. On peut dire 
 d'elle comme du cyclope aveugle, Ingens.'— Victor Hugo, 'Les 
 Misirables. ' 
 
 From the Place de la Bastille, the Rue de la Roquette 
 leads to the Cemetery of Pfere Lachaise, just before reaching 
 which we pass on the right the Prison of La Roquette, or 
 Nouveau Bidtre, also called the ' Ddpot des Condamnds.' 
 Executions take place on the space between the prison and 
 the Rue de la Roquette. There -are usually about 400 
 prisoners here, who are generally obliged to work at a trade 
 — ^joinery, tool-making, shoe-making, tailoring — and one 
 half of what they have earned is paid to them when they 
 are discharged. A marble slab in the prison records the 
 brutal murder here of Archbishop Darboy ; Duguerry, Curd 
 de la Madeleine ; the president Bonjean, and other hostages, 
 by the Communists, May 24, 1871, at the moment when 
 the troops of the Government were entering Paris. The 
 cell of the archbishop is preserved as he left it for his 
 execution. 
 
 ' L'archev^que passa le premier, descendit rapidement les cinq 
 marches et se retourna. Lorsque ses compagnons de martyre fiirent 
 tous sur les degr&, il leva la main droite, les trois premiers doigts 
 etendus, et il pronon5a la formule de I'absolution : £go vos absolve ab 
 
 R 
 
242 PARIS 
 
 omnibus censuris et peccatis t Puis, s'approchant de M. Bonjean, qui 
 marchait avec peine, il lui offrit son bras. Toujours pr^c^d^ par le 
 brigadier Ramain, entoure, derribe et sur Ics flancs, par les fed^res, 
 le cortege prit a droite, et s'engagea dans le long premier chemin de 
 ronde qui aboutit pr^s de la premiere cour de la prison. En tete, un 
 peu en avant des autres, marchait I'abb^ Allard, agitant les mains au- 
 dessus de son front. Un temoin, parlant de lui, a dit un mot d'une 
 naivete atroce : " II allait vite, gesticulaitet^e^foKwazVquelque chose." 
 Ce quelque chose etait la priere des agonisants que le malheureux 
 murmurait k demi-voix. Tous les autres restaient silencieux. 
 
 ' On arriva k cette grille que Ton appelle la grille des morts et qui 
 cl&t le premier chemin de ronde : elle etait fermee. Ramain, qui ^tait 
 fort trouble, malgr^ qu'il eneiit, cherchait vainement le clef au milieu 
 du trousseau qu'il portait. A ce moment, M. Darboy, moins peut- 
 ^tre pour disputer sa vie k ses bourreaux que pour leur epargner un crime, 
 essaya de discuter avec eux. " J'ai toujours aim^ le peuple, j'ai toujours 
 aim^ la liberty," disait-il. Un feder^ lui r^pondit : " Ta liberty n'est pas 
 la n6tre : tu nous emb§tes ! " L'archevgque se tjit et attendit patiemment 
 que Ramain edt ouvert la grille. L'abbe Allard se retourna, regarda vers 
 la fenStre de la quatrieme section et put apercevoir quelques detenus 
 epouvant& qui les contemplaient en pleurant. On touirna i gauche, 
 puis tout de suite encore i gauche, et I'on entra dans le second 
 chemin de ronde, dont la haute muraille noire semblait en deuil. Au 
 fond s'elevait le mur qui s^pare la prison des terrains adjacents i la rue 
 de la Folie-Regnault. 
 
 r ' L'endroit etait tr^s-bien choisi et ferm^ \ tous les regards : c'etait 
 une sorte de basse-fosse en plein air, propre aux guets-apens et aux 
 assassinats. Ramain s'en etait alii. Les victimes et les bourreaux 
 restaient seuls en presence, sans temoin qui plus tard pflt parler a la 
 justice. D'apr^s la place oil les corps ont ete retrouves, on salt que les 
 otages furent dispos& dans I'ordre hi&archique qui avait preside i leur 
 classement en cellules. On les rangea contre le mur, \ droite, faisant 
 face au peloton d'exicution. Mgr Darboy le premier, puis le president 
 Bonjean, I'abbe Deguerry, le pire Ducoudray, le p^re Clerc, tous deux 
 de la compagnie de Jesus, et enfin I'abbi AUard, I'aumSnier des ambu- 
 lances, qui, pendant le si^ge et lors des premiers combats de la Commune, 
 avaient rendu tant de services aux blesses. Le peloton s'etait arr^ti \ 
 trente pas de ces six hommes restes debout et resignfe. On entendit 
 deux feux de peloton successifs et quelques coups de fusil isoles. II 
 dtait alors huit heures moins un quart du soir.' — Maxims du Camp, 
 ' Les convulsions de Paris. ^ 
 
PERE LACHAISE 
 
 243 
 
 On the left of the road is the Maison Centrale d^ Educa- 
 tion Correctionnelle or Prison des Jeunes Detenus, intended 
 for male offenders under the age of sixteen. They are taught 
 twelve trades, to work at in their cells, which they never 
 leave except to hear mass, to see their friends by permission 
 in the parloir, or for an hour's walk in one of the courts ; 
 but the prisoners never meet, and they are only known — eveti 
 to the overseer — by a number over the door of their cell. 
 
 Pere Lachaise is the largest and ridhest of the Parisian 
 cemeteries. It occupies land formerly called Champ de 
 'Eveque, because it belonged to the Archbishop of Paris. 
 In the time of Louis XIV., under the name of Mont Louis, 
 it became the head-quarters of the Jesuits, and was much 
 embellished by their superior, the celebrated Pfere Lachaise, 
 confessor of Louis XIV. — 'I'ennemi le plus acharn^ des 
 rdformds,' as ' Madame,' the Duchesse d'Orl&ns, calls him. 
 After the expulsion of the Order, the land, sold to pay their 
 debts, continued to bear his name, and was converted into a 
 public cemetery in 1804. Brongniart, who was employed to 
 lay out the ground for its new destination, spared the avenues 
 of limes which led to the terrace' of the old gardens, and the 
 avenue of chestnuts at the top of the hill. The chapel 
 occupies the site of the old chateau, and its orangery still 
 exists, used as a dwelling for the guardians. 
 
 Condudeurs are to be found in the small building at the 
 entrance, and will be useful to those who wish to find any 
 especial graves in this vast labyrinth. 
 
 On entering the cemetery, the pagan character of the 
 monuments will strike everyone. It is exceedingly difficult 
 to find any particular tomb, and, except in cases of personal 
 interest, no visitor need waste his time in trying. All the 
 
244 PARIS 
 
 tombs are hideous, all have exactly the same characteristics, 
 and the chief of these is weight. It is as if every family tried 
 to pile as much stone, granite, or marble as possible upon 
 their lost relatives. A few of the monuments are pyramids 
 and columns ; but the favourite design is a heavy little chapel 
 with a gabled front, usually surmounted by a cross. Each 
 hears the name of its owners, ' Famille Henri,' ' Famille 
 Cuchelet,' &c Through the grating, or a glazed cross in 
 the door, you may see inside a little altar with a crucifix and 
 vases of artificial, or occasionally fresh, flowers, and sometimes 
 a stained window at the back. There is often room for 
 a prie-dieu or two chairs for the relations in the tiny space, 
 and the steps of the altar are piled with wreaths, sometimes 
 real, but generally of flowers made of black, white, and grey 
 beads. Often, too, these wreaths are exhibited outside the 
 tombs, or sometimes an immense Pens^e in a round glass. 
 If real flowers are planted on a humbler grave, it is 
 a pleasant variety. 
 
 ' Le Pere Lachaise, k la bonne heure ! Stre enterr^ au P^re 
 Lachaise, c'est comme avoir les meubles en acajou. L'el^gance se 
 reconnait li.' — Victor Hugo. 
 
 The poor, who are buried gratuitously, are laid in Fosses 
 Communes, containing forty or fifty coffins each ; but these 
 now only exist in the cemeteries outside the city, at S. Ouen 
 and Ivry. 150 fr. are paid for a concession tem,poraire, that 
 the grave shall be undisturbed for ten years ; 500 fr. for 
 a concession d, ferpetuitk. The spaces allowed for this sum 
 are only 22^ square feet. 
 
 Following the main avenue till it is divided by flower- 
 beds, the path on the right passes the tomb of the astronomer 
 Arago, member of the provisional government, 1848; on 
 the left are those of Visconti, architect of the new 
 
PERE LACHAISE 245 
 
 Louvre, Rossini the mathematician, Louis Poinsot, and 
 Alfred de Musset, engraved with a verse from one of his 
 poems. Further on lies Roederer, one of the chiefs of 
 the July Revolution, and opposite, on the other side of 
 an avenue of limes, Mar^chal Grouchy. Ascending to the 
 chapel by the left staircase, we pass the tombs of General 
 Nfegre and the painter David. 
 
 Returning towards the entrance by a lime avenue which 
 leaves the great avenue to the right, we see the monuments 
 of Auber, Potier, Beauvisage, &c. Turning to the left be- 
 yond the guardian's house, we reach the gate of the Jewish 
 Cemetery (closed on Saturdays), containing the tombs of 
 Mme Rachel, the families of Rothschild and Fould, and the 
 curious monument of one Jacob Roblfes. 
 
 To the left of the Avenue Casimir-P^rier, which makes 
 a great curve before reaching the ' Rond Point,' are tombs 
 of Bichat, Mile Mars, Lesurques, Pigault-Lebrun, J. Chdnier, 
 Robertson the aeronaut, &c. 
 
 To the right is the canopied gothic monument which 
 covers the remains of Ab^Iard, the poet-philosopher, who 
 founded a doctrine in his twenty-third year, and Hdloise, 
 abbess of the Paraclete, heroine of the most famous love- 
 story in the world. 
 
 ' Seul, le nom d'Abelard ne serait plus aujourd'hui connu que des 
 lettr^s : uni au nom d'H^loise, il est dans toutes les memoires. Paris 
 surtout, "la ville de toutes les gloires, mais aussi de tous les oublis;'' 
 a gard^ au souvenir de la fille immortelle de la Cit^ une fidflit^ excep- 
 tionelle et inalterable. Le dix-huiti^me si^cle et la Revolution, si 
 irapitoyables pour le moyen age, ont raviv^ cette tradition avec la 
 meme passion qui les emportait k effacer tant d'jautres souvenirs. Les 
 enfants des disciples de Rousseau viennent encore en pelerinage au 
 monument de la grande sainte de I'amour, et chaque printemps voit 
 des pieuses renouveler les couronnes de fleurs sur la tombe oil la Revo- 
 lution a r^mi les deux amants. 
 
246 PARIS 
 
 'Abelard mourut au prieur^ de S. Marcel de CMlotis, 21 avril, 
 1 142. Sa derniire vplont^ avail ^te de reposer au Paraclet. II avail 
 pense du moins, en mourant, \ celle qui n'avait jamais eu de pensee 
 que pour lui. L'Eglise elle-mfime respectail le lien mystique du 
 philosophe et de la grande abbesse. Pierre-le-Ve"erable, qui avai 
 ecrit pour Abflard une epitaphe oil il I'appelait le Socrate gaulois, le 
 Plalon et llAristote de I'Occidenl, remit ses restes mortels i Heloise. 
 " Le Seigneur,'" ecrivait-il \ I'abbesse du Pajraclet, comrae entrevoyanl 
 un autre ciel que celui des ascites, "le Seigneur vous le garde pour 
 yous le tendre par sa grace ! " Heloise survecut, en silence, jusqu'au 
 16 mai 1 164. Ce fut seulement au bout de vingt-deux ans qu'on 
 I'irihuma pres de son epoux.' — Martin, 'Hist, de France.^ 
 
 Part of the monument which we see was erected in 1779 
 at the Abbey of the Paraclete, and was removed for safety 
 to the Mus^e des Petits-Augustins during the Revolution. 
 It was transported to Pfere Lachaise in 181 7. The canopy 
 is made to include a few ancient fragments frorn the Abbey 
 of Nogent-sur-Seine, but, in itself, is quite modern. It 
 endoses the tomb erected by Peter the Venerable at the 
 Priory of S. Marcel. But the figure of Hdlo'ise is really 
 that of a lady of the Dormans family, plundered from their 
 interesting chapel in the old College de Beauvais. How- 
 ever, all the world looks upon her as the beloved of Ab^Iard, 
 long severed in reality, united to him in the tomb. Perhaps 
 when Dante wrote of Francesca di Rimini he had in his 
 mind the words of Abelard in a letter to his friend : 
 ' Nous ouvrions nos livres, mais nous avions plus de paroles 
 •d'amour que de lecture, plus de baisers que de phrases.' 
 
 The centre of the Rond Point is occupied by a statue of 
 ;Casimir-P^rier, Prime Minister under Louis Philippe, 1832. 
 On the left are a number of tombs of musicians, including 
 Bellini, Cherubini, and Chopin ; then, behind these, 
 Brongniart the mineralogist, Laharpe, Delille, Bernardin 
 de S. Pierre, Denon of Egyptian reputation, and, nearer 
 
PERE LACHAISE 247 
 
 the chapel, Talma and G^ricault. In the south part of the 
 cemetery, between the Rond Point and the enclosing wall, 
 are the chapel of General Maison ; the tomb of Lebrun, Due 
 of Piacenza ; the monument erected by the town of Pans 
 to soldiers killed in the insurrection of June 1832; that of 
 Colonel Labddoyfere, shot at the Restoration for having 
 proclaimed Napoleon on his return from Elba ; and many 
 others. Amongst the tombs on the hill behind the monu- 
 ment of Casimir-Pdrier, is that of the families Thiers and 
 Dosne. On the right is the tomb of "General Macdonald 
 and that of Count Lavalette, with a relief representing his 
 rescue from prison by the devotion of his wife. 
 
 On the other side of the avenue are the tombs of 
 General Gobert, with reliefs by David d' Angers, and a group 
 of Ney, Massena, Suchet, and other soldiers of the empire. 
 
 ' Le faisceau de gloire forme par la reunion des grands dignitaires 
 de la couronne imp^riale sur una meme Eminence eclipse toute autre 
 splendeur ; la magnificence de leurs mausolees atteste la v^rit^ de ce 
 mot de Napoleon confirm^ par le peuple et I'arm^e : " J'ai trop enrichi 
 mes marechaux." ' — Eughte Each. 
 
 Here, near Massena, in ' le quartier des marechaux,' rests 
 Lefebvre, who said — 
 
 ' Souvenez-vous que si je meurs i Paris je Veux etre enferr^ li, prfes 
 de Massena. Nous v&flmes ensemble dans les camps, dans les com- 
 bats ; nos cendres doivent obtenir le merae asile, ' 
 
 On reaching the summit of the hill, the tomb of Eugbne 
 Scribe is amongst those on the left. Rt;turning to the Rond 
 Point by the north paths, we pass the tombs of Beau- 
 marchais the dramatist, David d'Angers the sculptor, De 
 Beranger, Benjamin Constant, General Foy (by David), 
 Gamier- Pagfes, the two Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, Racine, the 
 Princess Demidoff", Pradier, of Moliere and Lafontaine 
 
248 PARTS 
 
 — the first to be laid in Pfere Lachaise — of Laplace the 
 astronomer, Lussac the great chemist, S. Simon, Mme de 
 Genlis, Junot (Due d'Abrantfes), and Ingres. 
 
 ' II y a temoignage de la foi saint simonienne sur une tombe du 
 Pfere-Lachaise : une femme, Marie Simon, est morte dans cette 
 croyance ; heureuse si cette formule de la doctrine put lui d^voiler une 
 vie future et la consoler du trepas : Dieu est tout ce qui est, . . . Tout 
 est en lui, tout est par lui, rien n'est en dehors de lui ! Ses correligion- 
 naires, en la quittant, lui out dit pour dernier mot: "Esperance!" 
 et I'ont laiss^ grave sur sa tombe. ' — Eugine Rich, 
 
 Where the Mahommedan cemetery opens, are tombs of 
 Condore and Amddee Achard. Returning tovpards the 
 chapel, amongst a crowd of minor celebrities we find 
 Nodier, Casimir Delavigne the poet, Emile Souvestre, De 
 Sfeze (the heroic advocate who defended Louis XVI.), and 
 the illustrious Balzac. Fr^ddric Soulid and Michelet are 
 buried in this part of the cemetery. 
 
 (If the Cemetery of Picpus be visited on leaving Pfere 
 Lachaise, take the tramways, turning left from the gate, 
 to the Place de la Nation.) 
 
 North of Pfere Lachaise is Menilmontant, once looked 
 
 upon as a tempting place of residence. 
 
 ' Le Due [de Chaulnes] se fla:tte toujoufs qu'il aura le Menil- 
 montant ; et la Duchesse y resiste toujours ; elle n'est pas bien 
 raisonnable quelquefois, votre amie ; pour moi, voili ce que je chante 
 tout haut, avec cette liberty que Dieu m'a donn^e, et en depit de sa 
 groEse moue. C'est au Due que je m'adresse. 
 ' Achetez le Menil-montant, 
 C'est le repos de votre vie .; 
 Avez-vous de I'argent comptant, 
 Achetez le Menil-montant. 
 Madame n'en dit pas autant ; 
 Mais satisfaites votre envie ; 
 Achetez le M^nil-montant, 
 C'est le repos de votre vie. ' 
 
 M. de Coulanges A Mme de Sivigni, 1695. 
 
5. MARGUERITE 249 
 
 Turning to the left on leaving the Pfere Lachaise by the 
 Avenue de Philippe-Augusta, and then turning to the left 
 down the Rue Charonne, we reach the Church of S. Mar- 
 guerite, of the XVII. c. and XVIII. c. The Chapelle des 
 Ames du Purgatoire was designed by Louis, 1765. Some 
 pictures of the life of S. Vincent de Paul, brought from the 
 I^azaristes, are interesting from the portraits they contain. 
 A Descent from the Cross was sculptured for the destroyed 
 Church of S. Landry, in La Cit^, by Le Lorrain and 
 Nourrisson, pupils of Girardon. The tomb of Antoine 
 Fayet, Curd de S. Paul, was (c. 1737) formerly buried under 
 the choir, on account of the nudity of -the figures ! 
 
 • Le II mai, 1792, on vit dans cette ville le premier exeinple d'un 
 prStre catholique se marier, et venir solennellement avouer cet acta 
 conforine aux lois de la primitive Eglise. Le vicaire de S. Marguerite 
 se presenta ce jour a la barre de I'assembl^e legislative, avec son Spouse 
 et son beau-p^re, et y refut les applaudissements. II eut beaucoup 
 d'imitateurs. ' — Dulaure, 'Hist, de Paris.' 
 
 The Cimetiire de S. Marguerite is interesting because 
 
 Louis XVII., who died in the prison of the Temple, June 8, 
 
 1795, aged ten years and two months, was buried there, 
 
 though in 18 15 his uncle, Louis XVIIL, vainly searched 
 
 there for his remains. 
 
 ' La Convention, qui avait assur^ k Louis XVL, pr^s de mourir, 
 que la nation franjaise, toujours magnanime, pourvoirait au sort de sa 
 famille, ordonna, pour premiere preuve de sa soUicitude, que Louis 
 fut s^pare de sa m^re. Alors commen5a le martyre du royal enfant. 
 La Convention le remit entre les mains du cordonnier Simon et de 
 sa femme, qu'elle qualifia derisoirement des litres d'instituteur et de 
 gouver-nante. C'^taient 1^ les plaisanteries de la Revolution. Cet 
 ex&rable couple se montra digne de la confiance de la nation repre- 
 sentee par les comites conventionnels, et mit tout en ceuvre pour 
 degrader les facultes morales et physiques du fils de Louis XVI. On 
 fremit en lisant le r^cit.authentique des traitements barbares et infanies 
 
250 PARIS 
 
 auxquels il fut soumis. Non content de lui faire subir la faim, le froid 
 et rhumiliation, de I'accabler de coups, de le priver d'air, de distrac- 
 tion, d'exercice, et de le laisser dans le deniiment le plus penible, 
 Simon prenait plaisir i lui faire boire des liqueurs fortes et k lui 
 enseigner des chansons et des propos obschies. Mais sa barbarie 
 servait d'antidote k son immorality. Le jeune prince donna plusieurs 
 fois des preuves d'une elevation de sentiments et d'idees bien ^tonnante 
 pour son age, et dont la perversity de son gardien n'avait pu detruire 
 au moins le germe. Simon lui ayant demande ce qu'il ferait si les 
 Vendeens le d^Iivraient : 
 
 ' " Je vous pardonnerais," r^pondit-il. 
 
 ' Le marasnie fut le resultat naturel de la malproprete et des 
 souffrances continuelles 011 vivait le prince. Pendant plus d'un an, il 
 fut priv^ de linge et depourvu des soins les plus indispensables. Le 
 temps pendant lequel il resista prouve coiiibien il etait fortement 
 constitue. ... La Convention, qui savait faire tomber les tetes des 
 rois, ignorait comment on elevait leurs enfants ; et, en consequence, 
 elle infligeait k ces enfants une agonie de plusieurs annees. Nous ne 
 craignons pas de le dire : la morte lente et t^n^breuse du jeune 
 Louis XVII. est une tache plus horrible pour la France que la mort 
 sanglante et ^clatante du vertueux Louis XVL' — Bahac, ' Six rois de 
 France, ' 
 
 From the Place de la Bastille, the Rue du Faubourg 
 S. Antoine leads east to the jPiacedu Trone, commemorating 
 in its name the throne placed here, upon which Louis XIV. 
 was seated when he received the homage of all the different 
 ofiScials of Paris, upon his triumphant entry with Marie 
 Th^rfese. On this spot 1,300 victims of the Reign of 
 Terror died by the guillotine. 
 
 ' Plus de huit mille suspects encombraient les prisons de Paris. En 
 une seule nuit, on y jeta trois cents families du faubourg Saint-Germain, 
 tous les grands noms de la France historique, militaire, parlementaire, 
 episcopale. On ne se donnait pas I'embarras de leur inventer un crime. 
 Leur nom suffisait, leurs richesses les d&ongaient, leur rang les 
 livrait. On ^tait coupable par quartier, par rang, par fortune, par 
 parent^, par famille, par religion, par opinion, par sentiments pr&um& ; 
 ou plut6t il n'y avait plus ni innocents ni coupables, il n'y avait plus 
 
PLACE DU TRONE 
 
 251 
 
 que des proscripteurs et des proscrits. Ni I'age, ni le sexe, ni la 
 vieillesse, ni I'enfance, ni les infirmites qui rendaient toute criminalite 
 mat^riellement impossible ne sauvaient de I'accusation et de la condem- 
 nation. Les vieillards paralytiques suivaient leurs fils, les enfants leurs 
 peres, les femmes leurs maris, les fiUes leurs m^res. Celui-ci mourait 
 pour son nom, celui-lk pour sa fortune ; tel pour avoir manifeste une 
 opinion, tel pour son silence, tel pour avoir servi la royaute, tel pour 
 avoir embrassd avec ostentation la r^publique, tel pour n'avoir pas 
 adore Marat, tel pour avoir regrette les Girondins, tel pour avoir 
 applaudi aux exces d'H^bert, tel pour avoir souri k la cl^mence de 
 Danton, tel pour avoir emigr^, tel pour ^tre rest^ dans sa demeure, tel 
 pour avoir affame le peuple en ne depensant pas son revenu, tel pour 
 avoir aflSche un luxe qui insultait k la misere publique. Raisons, 
 soupgons, pretextes contradictoires, tout etait bon. II suffisait de 
 trouver des d^lateurs dans sa section, et la loi les encourageait en leur 
 donnant une part dans les confiscations. 
 
 Les chars fun^bres rassemblaient souvent le mari et la femme, le 
 p^re et le fils, la m^re et les fiUes. Ces visages ^plores qui se contem- 
 plaient mutuellement avec la tendresse supreme du dernier regard, ces 
 tetes de jeunes fiUes appuyees sur les genoux de leurs meres, ces fronts 
 de femmes tombant, comme pour y trouver de la force, sur I'epaule le 
 leurs maris, les coeurs se pressant cpntre d'autres coeurs qui allaient 
 cesser de battre, ces cheveux Wanes, ces cheveux blonds coupes par les 
 mSmes ciseaux, ces tetes vinerables, ces tStes charmantes tout a I'heure 
 fauchees par le m^me glaive, la marche lente du cortege, le bruit 
 monotone des roues, les sabres des gendarmes formant une haie de fer 
 autour des charrettes, les sanglots etouffes, les hu^es de la populace, 
 cette vengeance froide et periodique qui s'allumait et qui s'eteignait, 
 k heure fixe, dans les rues ou passait le cortege, imprimaient a ces im- 
 molations quelque chose de plus sinistre que I'assassinat, car c'etait 
 I'assassinat donne en spectacle et en jouissance k tout un peuple. 
 
 ' Ainsi moururent, decimees dans leur elite, toutes les classes de la 
 population, noblesse, Eglise, bourgeoisie, magistrature, commerce, 
 peuple meme ; ainsi moururent tous les grands et obscurs citoyens qui 
 repr^sentaient en France les rangs, les professions, les lumi^res, les 
 situations, les richesses, les industries, les opinions, les sentiments 
 proscrits par la sanguinaire regeneration de la terreur. Ainsi tomberent, 
 une i une, quatre mille tetes en quelques niois, parmi lesquelles les 
 Montmorency, les Noailles, les la Rochefoucauld, les Mailly, les 
 Mouchy, les Lavoisier, les Nicolai, les Sombreuil, les Brancas, les 
 Broglie, les Boisgelin, les Beauvilliers, les Maill^, les Montalembert, 
 
252 ' PARIS 
 
 les Roquelaure, les Roucher, les Ch^nier, les Grammont, les 
 Duchitelet, Its Clermont-Tonnerre, les Thiard, les Moncrif, les Mol^- 
 Champlatreux. La d^mocratie se faisait place avec de fer ; mais, en 
 se faisant place, elle faisait horreur k I'humanite. ' — Lamartine, ' Hist, 
 des Girondins.' 
 
 The first side street on the left of the Faubourg S. Antoine 
 returning citywards from the Place du Trone, is the Eue de 
 Picpus, where the Bernardin-B^nddictin Convent was situ- 
 ated, of which Victor Hugo has so much to tell us. 
 
 ' Le point de Paris situ^ enlre le faubourg S. Antoine et la Rap^e 
 est un de ceux qu'ont transformfe de fond en comble les travaux 
 recents, enlaidissements selon les uns, transfiguration selon les autres. 
 Les cultures, les chantiers et les vieilles bitisses se sont effaces. II y a 
 Ik aujourd'hui de grandes rues toutes neuves, des arenes, des cirques, 
 des hippodromes, des embarcaderes de chemins de fer, une prison 
 Mazas ; le progr^s, comme on voit, avec son correctif. 
 
 ' II y a un demi-si^cle, dans cette langue usuelle populaire, toute 
 faite de traditions, qui s'obstine a appeler I'lnstitut ks quatre Nations 
 et rOpfea-Comique Feydeau, cet. endroit se nommait le Fetit-Picpus. 
 La porte S. Jacques, la porte Paris, la barri^re des Sergents, les 
 Porcherons, la Galiote, les Celestins, les Capucins, le Mail, la Bourbe, 
 I'Arbre de Cracovie, la Petite Pologne, le Petit-Picpus, ce sont les 
 noms du vieux Paris surnageant dans le nouveau. La memoire du 
 peuple flotte sur ces epaves du pass^. 
 
 'Le couvent du Petit-Picpus-S. -Antoine emplissait presque enti^re- 
 ment le vaste trapeze qui resultait des intersections de la rue Polonceau, 
 de la rue Droit-Mur, de la petite rue Picpus, et de la ruelle condamnee 
 nominee dans les vieux plans rue Aumarals. Ces quatre rues 
 entouraient ce trapeze comme ferait une fosse. Cette sainte maison 
 avait it€ batie precisement sur I'emplacenient d'un jeu de paume 
 fameux du quatorzieme au seizieme siecle qu'on appelait le tripot des 
 onze mille diables. 
 
 'Toutes ces rues du reste etaient des plus anciennes de Paris. 
 Ces noms, Droit-Mur et Aumarais, sont bien: vieux; les rues qui les 
 portent sont beaucoup plus vieilles encore. La ruelle Aumarais s'est 
 appel^e la ruelle Maugout ; la rue Droit-Mur s'est appele la rue des 
 Eglantiers, car Dieu ouvrait les fleurs avant que I'homme taillat les 
 pierres.' — 'Les Misirables.' ■ 
 
CIMETIERE DE PICPUS 253 
 
 At No. 35 Rue de Picpus is a Convent of the Sacrd 
 Cceur. Visitors are admitted by the porter and taken 
 through the long convent garden to visit the closed but 
 most interesting Cimetikre de Picpus. Here only the repre- 
 sentatives of those noble families whose ancestors perished 
 on the guillotine have been laid ; and there are long lines of 
 tombs of the De Larochefoucauld, De Noailles, De Clermont- 
 Tonnerre, De Rochefort, De la Mothe, De Boiselin, De 
 Montboissier, De Talleyrand, &c. At the end are the tombs 
 of General Lafayette and his wife. Here, through a grated 
 door, you look upon the green enclosure of a little second 
 cemetery, planted with cypresses, belonging to the German 
 Prince of Salm Kyrbourg, whose ancestor was the last 
 victim of the guillotine. Around his tomb he no less than 
 1,306 of his fellow-sufferers — 'les victimes ' — the flower of 
 the French aristocracy. Close to the entrance of the outer 
 enclosure, near the tomb of a bishop who was founder of 
 the ' Sainte Enfance,' and of the foundress of the adjoining 
 convent, is the tomb of Charles, Comte de Montalembert, 
 1870. 
 
 ' He was buried, by his own desire, not ambng the gaudy flowers 
 and wreaths of an ordinary Parisian cemetery, but in the hallowed 
 ground at the Picpus convent, where lie the victims of the Revolution, 
 and where only those who are descended from those victims, or con- 
 nected with them, can lie. Count de Montalembert had this privilege 
 by right of his wife, and of the noble and saintly ladies guillotined 
 under the Terror, from whom she was descended. He chose his last 
 rest there by the side of the unfortunate, by those who had perished 
 either for the sake of religion, or for their honourable adherence to a 
 fallen cause ; as became one who never loved victorious causes, and 
 who fought most of his life on the losing side, after the fashion of the 
 earth's best and purest heroes. '—jW«. OHfhant. 
 
 On the left of the Rue du Faubourg S. Antoine (No. 184) 
 
254 PARIS 
 
 is the Hopital S. Anfoine, occupying the buildings of the 
 famous Abbaye de S. Antoine, founded in 1198 by Foulques, 
 Cur^ de Neuilly, the preacher of the fourth crusade. The 
 buildings were reconstructed by Lenoir in 1770, except the 
 glorious gothic church (built by Blanche of Castille as 
 a thankoffering for the birth of S. Louis, and containing 
 the tombs of Jeanne and Bonne de France, daughters of 
 Charles V.), which was utterly destroyed at the Revolution. 
 
 In the Rue de Charenton, the next parallel street south, 
 the old Hotel des Mousquetaires Noirs is now occupied by 
 the Hospice des Quinze Vingts, founded by S. Louis in 1260, 
 and removed hither by Cardinal de Rohan from the Rue 
 S. Honor6. The Rue de Charenton, under its former name 
 of Rue de la Planchette, was notorious for the unpunished 
 massacre (Sept. 28, 1621) of several hundred protestants, 
 coming out of a church which they had built in the street 
 No. I Faubourg S. Antoine, at the corner of the Place de la 
 Bastille, was inhabited by P^pin, executed as an accomplice 
 of Fieschi against the life of Louis Philippe, 1835. 
 
 On the Boulevard Mazas is the Prison of Mazas, where 
 prisoners are placed in solitary confinement immediately 
 upon their arrest, when the cases are not likely to be of 
 long detention, 
 
255 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE ISLANDS IN THE SEINE. 
 
 THE principal island in the Seine, which in early times 
 bore the name of Lutece, was the cradle of Paris. 
 Caesar, who is the first to speak of it, calls it Lutecia. Strabo 
 wrote Lucotocia ; Ptolemy, Lucotecia ; the Emperor Julian, 
 who resided long in the ancient city, wrote of it as Louchetia, 
 the different denominations probably all originating in the 
 whiteness of the plaster used in its buildings. 
 
 Paris began to spread beyond the boundaries of Lutfece 
 from Roman times onwards. The rays emerging from this 
 centre have absorbed all the villages in the neighbourhood, 
 and for many miles in every direction all is now one vast 
 and crowded city. But the island, where the first palaces 
 were grouped around the fishermen's huts, has ever been as 
 it were the axis of the kingdom, the point whence the laws 
 were disseminated, and where the metropolitan cathedral 
 has existed for fifteen centuries. In early times two islets 
 broke the force of the river beyond the point of the He de 
 la Citd These were the He de la Gourdaine, or du Passeur 
 aux Vaches, and the He aux Javiaux, or He aux Treilles. 
 Upon the latter, which was then opposite the end of the 
 royal gardens (March ii, 1314), Jacques de Molay, grand 
 
256 PARIS 
 
 master of the Templars, and Guy, dauphin d'Auvergne, 
 prieure de Normandie, were burnt alive aprh salut et com- 
 plies, i.e. at 5 p.m. The Templars had been arrested all 
 over France, Oct. 13, 1307, but it was only on May 12, 
 1 3 10, after three years' imprisonment, that fifty-four were 
 burnt at the Porte S. Antoine, and four years more elapsed 
 before their chiefs suffered, after protesting before Notre 
 Dame the innocence of their order and the falsehood of the 
 accusations which had been made against it. Even to pre- 
 sent times Templars dressed in mourning may be seen 
 making a pilgrimage, on March 11, to the scene of their 
 chieftain's martyrdom. 
 
 The two islets were artificially united to the He de la 
 Cit6, when Androuet du Cerceau was employed to build 
 the Pont-Neuf in the reign of Henri III. The king laid 
 the first stone on the very day on which his favourite Qudlus 
 died of the wounds he received in the famous Combat des 
 Mignons, for which Henri was in such grief during the 
 ceremony that it was said that the new bridge ought to be 
 called le Pont des Fleurs. Owing to the emptiness of the 
 treasury, a very long time elapsed before the side of the 
 bridge nearest the right bank was completed, and great was 
 . the lamentation over this delay amorigst those who were 
 proud of the beauties of the capital. 'La fortune,' says 
 Montaigne, ' m'a fait grand desplaisir dfinterrompre la belle 
 structure du Pont-Neuf de nostre grande villa, et m'oster 
 I'espoir avant mourir d'en veoir en train de service.' In 
 1604 the Pont-Neuf was finished by Guillaume Marchaud 
 for Henri IV. : but up to his time the piles for the wider 
 branch of the bridge only reached to the level of the water. 
 Of late years, the noble and beautiful proportions of the 
 
LE PONT-NEUF 257 
 
 bridge have been considerably injured by the lowering of 
 the platform, and new arches being constructed at a lower 
 level than the old ones. Still the bridge, with its twelve 
 round-headed arches and massive cornice, is most pictur- 
 esque, and with the varied outline of tall houses and the 
 grey cathedral behind it, and the feathery green of its island 
 trees glittering against the purple shadows in the more 
 distant windings of the river, it still forms the most beautiful 
 scene in the capital. So central an artery is the Pont-Neut, 
 that it used to be a saying with the Parisian police, that 
 if, after watching three days, they did not see a man cross 
 the bridge, he must have left Paris. In the XVI. c. the 
 Pont-Neaf was so much the resort of news-vendors and 
 jugglers, that any popular witticism was described as 'a 
 Pont-Neuf ' On the piers were shops for children's toys, and 
 on Jan. 15 'la foire aux jouets ' was held on the Pont-Neuf. 
 
 ' Vraiment ce pont, si c^Iebr^ dans les chansons et dans les romans, 
 ce pont dont les vaudevilles ont tant abuse, que les bateleurs, les mar- 
 chands de chiens et les pontes ont tant exploit^, que I'Etoile appelait 
 merveilleux, que Ronsard chanta et que Germain Pilon avait decore, 
 dit-on, de ses charmantes sculptures, est digne de toute notre attention 
 et de tout notre respect.' — Adolphe Joanne. 
 
 Henri was not satisfied with completing the bridge itself ; 
 as soon as it was finished, he began to build the Place 
 Dauphine where the bridge crossed the end of the island, 
 and employed the Flemish Lintlaer to construct a pump on 
 one of the piers of the bridge, with machinery to supply, the 
 Tuileries and Louvre with the water in which they had been 
 hitherto deficient. ' L'eau de la pompe du Pont-Neuf est 
 aux Tuileries,' Malherbe wrote in triumph on Oct. 3, 1608. 
 The little Chateau d'Eau, in which the machine was con- 
 tained, was quite a feature in the river views, and on its 
 
 s 
 
258 
 
 PARIS 
 
 fagade toward the bridge it bore a sculptured group called' 
 la Samaritaine (of Jesus receiving water from the woman of 
 Samaria at Jacob's well), with a chiniing clock which had 
 great popularity — ' a very rare dyall of several motions,' as 
 John Evelyn calls it. The Samaritaine was remade in 1715, 
 the figure of Christ being by Philippe Bertrand, that of the 
 woman by Rend Fr^min. They were spoilt by being gilt 
 
 LE PONT-NEUF. 
 
 in 1776, when little pavilions were erected upon all the piers 
 of the bridge. The group perished in July 1792, when the 
 statues of the kings were destroyed — Ml rappelait trop 
 I'Evangile ! ' 
 
 After the bridge was finished, when Henri IV. was at 
 the height of his popularity, it was decided to erect his 
 statue on the central platform which was formed by the 
 islets recently united to the mainland. Franqueville, first 
 sculptor to the king, was employed to make a model to be 
 sent to Florence for casting by John of Bologna ; but when 
 
STA TUE OF HENRI IV. 259 
 
 the great sculptor received the model he began by the horse, 
 and died in 1608 before he had proceeded farther. Pietro 
 Tacca, his favourite pupil, took up his work, but had finished 
 nothing when Henri IV. was assassinated two years later, 
 and though pressed hard by the Grand Duke (cousin of 
 Marie de Medicis), who gave 30,000 crowns ' de ses deniers 
 propres ' for the work, man and horse were only completed 
 in 1613. Then le colosse du grand rby Henry, as it was 
 called at the time, was brought by sea from Leghorn to 
 Havre, and thence by the Seine to Paris, where it was raised 
 to a temporary pedestal on August 23. The widowed queen 
 was enchanted with the resemblance, ' degna veramente di 
 quello che rappresenta,' as she gratefully wrote to Tacca, 
 and the late king's subjects were of the same opinion. ' La 
 figure est une des plus ressemblantes que nous ayons 
 d'Henri IV.,' records Sauval, who had conversed with the 
 king's contemporaries. The horse, however, was less ad- 
 mired, being thought too heavy for its i'ider and its legs too 
 short. It was not till 1635 that the whole was placed on a 
 magnificent pedestal guarded at the corners by four chained 
 slaves, designed by the Florentine Luigi Civoli, and finished 
 by his son-in-law, Bordoni. The blame of the long delay 
 in completing the work was laid upon the Italian minister 
 Concino Concini, with the result that after his murder, 
 when the people exhumed his body after his hasty burial at 
 S. Germain I'Auxerrois, they dragged it through the mud 
 to the Pont-Neuf, and hacked it to pieces at the foot of the 
 statue which he had neglected. Here a cannibal roasted 
 the heart of Concini and ate it up, the rest of the body being 
 distributed to the people in morsels. 
 
 The feeling about Henri IV, was such that, from the 
 
26o PARIS 
 
 death of the Grand Dauphin, the people used to carry their 
 petitions of complaint to the foot of the king's statue, and 
 leave them there. In 1789 the people forced those who 
 passed in carriages to descend and kneel before Henri IV. : 
 this genuflection was inflicted on the Duke of Orleans. 
 
 'La statue du bon Henri IV. quoiqu'isol^e, int^resse beaucoup 
 plus que toutes les autres figures royales. Cette effigie a un front 
 populaire ; et c'est celle-li que I'on considire avec attendrissemeut et 
 v&eration.' — Tableau de Paris. 
 
 ' The statue is inclos'd with a strong and beautiful! grate of yron, 
 about which there are allways mountebancs shewing their feates to idle 
 passengers.'— yff/^» Evelyn. 
 
 At the foot of the statue, Cardinal de Retz, in his 
 pontifical robes, met the people in the revolution of 1648 
 (' la journ^e des barricades ') and persuaded them to retire 
 peaceably. But the great Revolution of 1792 melted down 
 horse and rider alike, to make cannon. The existing statue, 
 by Lemot, only dates from the Restoration in 1818, and is 
 made from the bronze of the destroyed statues of Napoleon 
 in the Place Vendome and at Boulogne-sur-mer, together 
 with that of General Desaix, which stood in the Place des 
 Victoires. One of the inscriptions on the pedestal is a cojjy 
 of that belonging to the original statue. The reliefs repre- 
 sent Henri IV. entering Paris, and his passing bread over 
 the walls to the besieged citizens. 
 
 ' N'en doutez pas ; I'aspect de cette image auguste 
 Rendra nos maux moins grands, notre bonheur plus doux,' 
 O Frangais ! louez Dieu ; vous voyez un roi juste, 
 
 Un Franjais de plus parmi vous.' — Victor Hugo, 
 
 The Corps de Garde near the statue is that where the 
 poet Gilbert, ' dying of genius and hunger,' used to seek a 
 
VIEWS FROM THE PONT-NEUF 261 
 
 refuge and share the food of the soMiers. The proverb 
 ' Solide comma le Pont-Neuf ' was set at nought in December 
 1885, by the sudden subsidence of the smaller end of the 
 bridge, connecting the island with the south bank of the 
 Seine. 
 
 Very striking is theview from the bridge near the statue 
 ' A I'ouest rhorizon est born6 par les coUines verdoyantes de Saint- 
 Cloud et de Meudon ; dans cette direction et sur la rive droite les 
 Tuileries et le Louvre ^talent leurs masses majestueuses. Le pont des 
 Arts, construction gracieuse et I^gere, coupe admirablement le premier 
 plan de ce tableau, tandis que le fleuve, charg^ d'embarcations de 
 toutes les formes, lui donne I'activite et la vie. . . . Derriire vous 
 c'est Paris dans sa jeuriesse et sa virilite, c'est la grande ville, la rein£ 
 de rfle-de-France, paree de tous les ornemens de sa royaute ; mais a 
 Test, devant vous, c'est le vieux Paris, le Paris de Hugues-Capet et de 
 Marcel, le pr^v&t des marchands ; 1^ se d^ptoient sur les monumens, 
 d'un autre age, noircis par le temps, tous les souvenirs de I'histoire 
 nationale. L'ile Saint-Louis, qui, sur les plans recul^s de la perspec- 
 tive, occupe a peu pres le centre du fleuve, est peuplee de hautes con- 
 structions, dont I'effet est extraordinaire, k cette heure surtout oil la- 
 lueur pale et lointaine des r^verb^res jette Sur elle un jour douteux. 
 Toujours sur cette ligne, mais en inclinant davantage vers la rive, 
 gauche du fleuve, on decouvre les tours gothiques de Notre-Dame,- 
 dont le sommet entour6 des vapeurs gazeuses qui se Invent de Paris, 
 semble ainsi se perdre au sein des nuages. L'ile oil ce monument est 
 situe, c'est la chere Lutece de Julien ; on lui a laiss^ le nom de Citd 
 qui rappelle son droit d'ainesse. II n'y a pas une de ces voies main- 
 tenant sombres et tortueuses qui ne rappelle des ^vteements racont^s 
 dansnos vieilles chroniques. Enfin, a une distance plus rapprochee, 
 voyez ce qui reste de I'antique palals legue par les rois de France a la 
 justice.' — A. Bariquet. 
 
 ' La Conciergerie, le palais, la Cit^, c'est le vieux centre de Luttee, 
 le coeur de Paris. De W se sont elanc^es toutes ces maisons qui ont 
 elargi la ville, qui I'ont propag^e de loin ; li etaient les amours de 
 Julien ; de ce centre ont diverge les rayons qui ont englobe des 
 villages tout entiers dans leur progrJs. Aussi dans cette vieille prison, 
 que de larnies ont coule depuis I'^poque oii quelques bateliers occu- 
 paient l'ile, autour de laquelle sont venus se grouper tant de palais ! 
 Dans ce souterrain, auquel se rattache toute I'existence de la cit^-reine^ 
 
262 PARIS 
 
 que de douleurs humaines se sont donnd rendez-vous ! Dfes que la cit^ 
 se forme, le cachot s'ouvre. Le premier germe et le pivot d'une 
 giande ville, c'est une prison ! ' — Paris, ou le livre des cent-et-un. 
 
 The point of the island, of the original He de Treilles, 
 behind the statue of Henri IV., is one of those bright spots 
 of .green which leave an unrecognised impression upon the 
 summer visitor to Paris. 
 
 ' La pointe occidentale de Tile, cette proue de navire continuelle- 
 jnent k. Fancre, qui, dans la fuite des deux courants, regarde Paris sans 
 jamais I'attendre . . . Une berge solitaire, planteede grands arbres ; un 
 refuge delicieux, un asile en pleine foule.' — Zola, ' L'CEuvre.' 
 
 The Flace Dauphine, which Henri IV. surrounded by 
 the brick and stone houses characteristic of his time, 
 occupies, with the Rue de Harlay, the site of the royal 
 garden where S. Louis administered justice. 
 
 ' Je le vis aucune fois en ete, que pour delivrer [expedier] sa gent 
 [son peuple] il venoit ou jardin de Paris, une cote de camclot vestue, 
 un surcot de tyreteinne sans manche, un mantel de ceudal noir entour 
 son col, moult bien pign^, et sans coife, et un chapel de paon blanc sur 
 la teste, et faisoit estendre tapis pour nous seoir entour li, et tout le 
 peuple qui avoit i faire par devant li, estoit entour, et lors il les faisoit 
 ■delivrer en la maniere, que je vous ai dit devant, du bois de Vincennes.' 
 Joinville. 
 
 Very few of the old houses now remain, and though 
 those at the entrance retain their high roofs and overhanging 
 cornices, their brick fronts are painted white. 
 
 Till late years, a monument to General Desaix in the 
 Place Dauphine bore his last words — ' Allez dire au premier 
 consul que je meurs avec le regret de n'avoir pas assez fait 
 pour la France et la post^rit6.' 
 
 It was here, in the last days of the garden, that Jean 
 Tiobin, arhoriste et simpliciste du roy, cultivated the first 
 
LILE DE LA CITE 263 
 
 acacia, or robinier, a tree which has since spread over the 
 length and breadth of France. 
 Let us now explore the island. 
 
 ' Quel est le Parisien, I'itranger ou le provincial, pour peu qu'ils 
 soient rest& deux jours a Paris, qui n'ait remarque les murailles noires 
 flanquees de trois grosses tours a poivri^res, dont deux sont presque 
 accoupl^es, ornement sombre et mysterieux du quai des Lunettes 1 Ce 
 quai commence au bas du pont du Change et s'etend jusqu'au Pont- 
 Neuf. Une tour Carrie, dite la tour de I'Horloge, ou fut donn^ le 
 signal de la Saint-Barth^lemy, tour presque aussi elevee que celle de 
 Saint-Jaeques-la-Boucherie, indique le Palais et forme le coin de ce 
 quai. Ces quatre tours, ces murailles sont rev^tues de ce suaire 
 noiratre que prennent h. Paris toutes les fa9ades k I'exposition du nord. 
 Vers le milieu du quai, k une arcade deserte, commencent les con- 
 structions privees que I'etabliBsement du Pont-Neuf d^termina sous le 
 rigne de Henri IV. La place Royale fut la r^plique de la place 
 Dauphine. C'est le meme syst^me d'architecture, de la brique 
 encadree par des chalnes de pierre de taille. Cette arcade et la rue de 
 Harlay indiquent les limites du Palais k I'ouest. Autrefois la Pre- 
 fecture de police, hotel des premiers presidents au Parlement, de- 
 pendait du Palais. La cour des Comptes et la cour des Aides y com- 
 pletaient la justice supreme, celle du souverain. 
 
 ' Ce carre, cette 51e de maisons et de monumens, ou se trouve la 
 Sainte-Chapelle, le plus magniiique joyau de I'ecrin de saint Louis, 
 cet espace est le sanctuaire de Paris ; e'en est la place sacree, I'arche 
 sainte. Et d'abord, cet espace fut la premiere cite tout entiere, cax 
 I'emplacement de la place Dauphine etait une prairie dependante du 
 domaine royal oil se trouvait un moulin a frapper les monnaies. De la 
 le nom de rue de la Monnaie, donne k celle qui mene au Pont-Neuf. 
 De la aussi le nom d'une des trois tours rondes, la seconde, qui 
 s'appelle la tour if Argent, et qui semblerait prouver qu'on y a primi- 
 tivement battu monnaie. Le fameux moulin, qui se voit dans les 
 anciens plans de Paris, serait vtaiseinblablement postetieur au temps oil 
 I'on frappait la monnaie dans le palais m6me, et dil sans doute i un 
 perfectionnement dans I'art monetaire. La premiere tour, presque 
 accolee a la tour d'Argent, se nomme la tour de Montgommery. La 
 troisieme, la plus petite, mais la mieux conserv^e des trois, car elle a 
 gard^ ses creneaux, a nom la tour Bonbec. La Sainte-Chapelle et 
 ses quatre tours (en comprenant la tour de I'Horloge) determinent 
 
264 rAEIS 
 
 parfaitement I'enceinte, le perimfetre, dirait un employ^ du Cadastre, 
 du palais, depuis les M^rovingiens jusqu'k la premiere maison de 
 Valois ; mais pour nous, et par suite de ses transformations, ce palais 
 represente plus sp^cialement I'^poque de Saint-Louis. 
 
 ' Charles V., le premier, abandonnale Palais au Parlement, institu- 
 tion nouvellement cr^e, et alia, sous la protection de la Bastille, 
 habiter le fameux h6tel Saint-Pol, auquel on adossa plus tard le palais 
 des Tournelles. Puis, sous les demiers Valois, la royauti revint de la 
 Bastille au Louvre, qui avait ^t^ sa premiere bastille. La premiere 
 demeure des rois de France, le palais de Saint-Louis, qui a gard^ ce 
 nom de Palais tout court, pour signifier le palais par excellence, est 
 tout entier enfoui sous le Palais-de-Justice, il en forme les caves, car 
 il ^tait biti dans la Seine, comme la cath^drale, et b^ti si soigneuse- 
 ment que les plus hautes eaux de la riviere en couvrent k peine les 
 premiferes marches. Le quai de I'Horloge enterre d'environ vingt pieds 
 ces constructions dix fois seculaires. Les voitures roulent a, la hauteur 
 du chapiteau des fortes colonnes de ces trois tours, dont jadis I'flevation 
 devait ^tre en harmonie avec I'el^gance du palais, et d'un effet pit- 
 toresque sur I'eau, puisque aujourd'hui ces tours le disputent encore en 
 hauteur aux monuments les plus dley& de Paris, Quand on con- 
 temple cette vaste capitale du haut de la lanterne du Pantheon, le 
 Palais avec la Sainte-Chapelle est encore ce qui parait le plus monu- 
 mental parmi tant de monuments. Ce palais des rois, sur lequel vous 
 marchez quand vous arpentez I'immense salle des Pas-Perdus etait une 
 merveille d'architecture, il I'est encore aux yeux intelligents du poete 
 qui vient I'etudier en examinant la Conciergerie. Helas ! la Con- 
 ciergerie a envahi le palais des rois, Le coeur saigne i voir comment 
 on a taille des ge&les, des reduits, des corridors, des logements, des 
 salles sans jour ni I'air dans cette magnifique composition oil le 
 byzantin, le roman, le gothique, ces trois faces de I'art ancien, ont ^t^ 
 raccordes par I'architecture du douzieme siecle. Ce palais est k 
 I'histoire raonumentale de la France des premiers temps ce que le chateau 
 de Blois est h. I'histoire monumentale des seconds temps, De meme qu'i 
 Blois dans une cour vous pouvez admirer le ch&teau des comtes de Blois, 
 celui de Louis XII,, celui de Fran5ois I,, celui de Gaston ; de meme i 
 la Conciergerie vous retrouvez, dans la m^me enceinte, le caract^re 
 des premieres races, et dans la Sainte-Chapelle, I'architecture de Saint- 
 Louis.' — Balzac, ' Scenes de la vie parisienne,' 
 
 We are nov? facing the back of the pile of buildings 
 
 occupying the site of the palace inhabited by many of the 
 
riLE DE LA CITE ' 265 
 
 early sovereigns of France. Even in Roman times there 
 was a palace here, for it is evident from the allusions in his 
 Misopogon that Julian the Apostate lived, not, as has been 
 often stated, at the Palais des Thermes, but upon the 
 Island in the Seine. Thence he must have seen the lumps of 
 ice floating down the river, which he compared to huge 
 blocks of Phrygian stone ; there he tried to subdue the cold 
 of his chamber by a stove and was nearly suffocated by its 
 charcoal ; and there the troops, revolting against Constan- 
 tius II., surrounded, at midnight, the palace where Julian 
 was living with his wife Helena, and proclaimed him 
 emperor. Relics of the strong wall which surrounded the 
 Roman palace — the basileia as Ammiaiius and Zosimus call 
 it — existed till recent times at the corner of the Rue de 
 Jerusalem, and remains of columns belonging to an Ionic 
 portico facing the river were exposed when the new police 
 courts were built. Amongst the many other Roman 
 memorials unearthed here we may notice a cippus adorned 
 with figures of Mercury, his mother Maia, Apollo, and 
 another god, which was discovered at the western end of 
 the island. 
 
 It is certain that several of the early kings of Paris, from 
 the time of Dagobert, lived upon the island of La Cite. 
 There Childebert and Clotaire murdered their nephews, the 
 grandsons of Clotilde. There the priest Heraclius visited 
 Clotaire, and there his queen Ingoberge reproached him for 
 his infidelities with the sisters Marcovfese and M^roflfede, 
 contemptuously pointing out to him their father, a common 
 workman, who was busied in washing the palace linen in the 
 Seine, at the bottom of the garden. It was in the island 
 palace that Frdddgonde shut herself up after the. murder of 
 
266 PARIS 
 
 Chilp^ric, flying thence after a time, for greater security, to 
 the church of Notre Dame. The Roman building appears 
 to have lasted till the time of Comte Eudes, who defended 
 Paris from the Normans, and he rebtiilt the palace as a 
 square fortress, defended by lofty towers, and having a 
 fagade with four great round-headed arches flanked by two- 
 story bastions, of which the remains were discovered when 
 the Cour de Harlay was pulled down : this palace of Count 
 Eudes was called the Palais- Nouveau. The tower to the 
 right was supposed to have been that inhabited by Queen 
 Blanche, mother of S. Louis. 
 
 Louis le Gros and Louis le Jeune, who endowed respec- 
 tively chapels of S. Nicholas and of Notre Dame de 
 I'Etoile in the palace, both died within its walls. Philippe 
 Auguste was married here to a Danish princess. Raoul 
 Glaber describes how (1186) the king loved to lean 
 from the window of the great hall and watch the Seine. 
 In the palace vestibule, or in its garden under an oak, 
 S. Louis administered justice in th.& plaids de la porte. 
 
 But the mention of S. Louis urges us to hasten on to 
 the buildings of his time. The fa9ade towards the Place 
 Dauphine only dates from 1869, when it was designed by 
 M. Due. To gain the main entrance of the palace we can 
 either turn to the right by the Quai des Orjhvres,^ which 
 recalls St. Eloy,^ goldsmith, prime minister, finally bishop, 
 who settled here in the primitive time of Dagobert, and 
 which was afterwards entirely lined by jewellers' shops ; or, 
 we may turn to the left by the Quai de VHorloge, named 
 
 * It was on the Quai des OrfSvres that the M4mppie, the famous satire of the 
 XVI. c, was composed, in the house of Jacques Gillot, by the owner and his friends, 
 and in the same house that his great nephew, Nicolas Boileau Despreaux, was born. 
 
 " S. Eligius. 
 
PALAIS DE LA CITE 267 
 
 from what is still the chief external feature of the palace, 
 the Tour de VHorloge, which has been restored on its old 
 lines, and is partially old. Its great clock, with decorations 
 by Germain Pilon, commemorates the pldest clock in Paris, 
 constructed by the German Henri Vic, and erected by 
 Charles V. 
 
 It was the bell of this tower which gave the signal for 
 the massacre of S. Bartholomew on the left bank of the 
 Seine, which the bell of S. Germain I'Auxerrois had already 
 given on the right. 
 
 ' La cloche de I'Horloge du Palais donna le second signal du 
 meurtre. . . - EUe existe encore cette haute four d'ou tomba ce tocsin 
 affreux ; le soir, en regagnant sa maison, I'habitant de Paris mesure de 
 I'osil ce lugubre edifice avec indignation, et fr^mit en s'eloignant. . . . 
 Des cet instant, le sang coule k flots sur les deux rives de la Seine ; 
 partout on enfonce les portes, on egorge les citoyens, on jette leurs 
 cadavres par les fenetres. . . - Le citadin, en fuyant entend retentir 
 au loin les oris de la rage et du desespoir, les blasphemes de ceux qui 
 massacrent ; les supplications de ceux qui demandent la vie ; la deto- 
 nation des arquebuses qui tuent, les cliquetis des ^pees qui attaquent et 
 defendent ; les gemissements des vlctimes qui expirent ; puis un 
 bruit sinistre de vitres qu'cn brise, de portes qu'on fracasse, de meubles 
 qu'on tratne sur le pave, pour les br<iler ; et des tourbillons de 
 flammes et de fumee couronnent ce Paris abandonne aux furies, aux 
 demons, qui massacrent, pillent, violent, iricendient.' — Touchard- 
 Lafosse, ' Hist, de Paris, ' 
 
 Only part of the buildings adjoining the Tour de 
 I'Horloge is ancient. Two round towers — de Cesar and de 
 Montgommery — retain little that is really old, though they 
 have been reconstructed in the style of the XIV. c. 
 The latter commemorates the tower, pulled down in 
 1776, where the Earl of Montgomery was imprisoned 
 after fatally wounding Henri II. at a tournament, and 
 where Ravaiilac, murderer of Henri IV., and Damiens, who 
 
268 
 
 PARIS 
 
 attempted to murder Louis XV., spent their last days. A 
 third tower, called Tour d' Argent, encloses the bell called 
 Tocsin du Palais, which repeated the signal for the Mas- 
 sacre of S. Bartholomew, given by S. Germain I'Auxerrois. 
 
 ' La residence des rois de France, dans I'lle de la Cite, ^tait designee 
 sous le nom du Palais par excellence, tandis qu'on disait le chllteau 
 du Louvre, le chiteau de Vincennes. Ce palais, dans lequel les souve- 
 rains tinrent leur cour, depuis les Capetiens jusqu'a Charles V. pr^- 
 
 PALAIS DE LA CITg. 
 
 sentait, au commencement du xiv' siecle, une reunion de batiments 
 dont les plus anciens remontaient \ IVpoque de S. Louis, et les 
 derniers dataient du regne de Philippe le Bel. Des fouilles recemment 
 faites dans I'enceinte du palais ont mis au jour quelques restes de con- 
 structions gallo-romaines, notamment du c&te de la rue de la Barillerie ; 
 mais dans I'ensemble des batiments il ne reste rien d'apparent qui soit 
 anterieur au regne de Louis IX.' — Viollst-le-Duc. 
 
 Very little of the ancient palace remains. The beauti- 
 ful gothic buildings of the XVI. c, erected by Louis 
 XII., which surrounded the Cour du Mai, after having 
 
PALAIS DE LA CITE 269 
 
 long been much mutilated, totally perished in the three 
 fires of 1618, 1737, and 1776. These fires also destroyed 
 the halls of S. Louis ; the Hotel Isabeau, once occupied 
 by the faithless wife of Charles "VI. ; the rooms in which 
 the Burgundians (June 10, 1467) seized the Comte 
 d'Armagnac, Constable of France, the Chancellor Henri de 
 Masle, and others, and dragged them forth to murder them 
 'bien inhumainement ; ' the ' Grand Salle,' which beheld 
 the coronation banquet of Henry VI. of England as King of 
 France : and the room in which S. Louis passed the first 
 night after his marriage, and in which all kings of France 
 were expected to sleep the night after their arrival in Paris. 
 Most of the buildings erected after the fire of 1776, perished 
 during the savage and ignorant furies of the Commune in 
 1^7 1. The existing buildings — a central body, with two 
 wings — only date from 1874. The only important remnant 
 of antiquity now remaining is a vaulted hall of the time of 
 S. Louis with four large chimneys at its angles, which goes 
 by the name of Us cuisines de S. Louis. 
 
 ' On voit encore une salle voutee sur un quinconce de colonnes, 
 avec quatre larges cheminees aux angles. Cette salle, qui donne sur ]e 
 quai du nord, a c6te de la tour de I'Horloge, est connue sous le nom 
 de cuisines de Saint Louis. Cependant cette construction appartient a 
 la fin du xiii° si^cle ou au comnienceinent du xiv°, et est contem. 
 poraine des ouvrages eleves sous Philippe le Bel. Les manteaux 
 des qualre cheminees fonnent, en projection horizontale, un angle 
 obtus, et leur clef est contre-butee par une fafon d'etresillon de pierre. 
 L'examen des localites nous a fait supposer que cette cuisine avait deux 
 etages. La cuisine basse, celle qui existe encore entiere, etait pro- 
 batlement reservee aux familiers, et la cuisine du premier etage au ser- 
 vice de la table du roi.' — VioUet-k-Duc. 
 
 The. main portal of the palace is approached from the 
 Cour d'ffonneur by a great staircase and perron— sign of 
 
270 
 
 PARIS 
 
 power and jurisdiction, replacing the famous perron erected 
 by Enguerrand de Marigny in the time of Philippe le Bel, 
 and where, under Louis le Hutin, when the architect was 
 condemned to be hanged, his effigy was 'jett6e du liaut en 
 bas des grands degrez du palais.' ^ A little to the left, in front 
 of this staircase, was planted the May. At its foot, stood 
 the Montoir, used by the judges when they mounted their 
 mules after their day's work. Public exposures formerly took 
 place here upon a platform opposite the grille, originally 
 provided with the purchase-money for the site of the house 
 of Jean Chastel, razed to the ground by order of Parlia- 
 ment. 
 
 The interior of the palace can be visited daily from 
 10 to 4, except on Sundays and holidays. A passage 
 on the left leads to the advocates' library, and on the 
 right to the lower story of the Salle des Fas Ferdus, 
 rebuilt, after its destruction under the Commune, on the 
 lines of the reconstruction (1622) of the famous hall called 
 Grande Salle du Palais, erected in the time of Philippe 
 le Bel, by Enguerrand de Marigny, Comte de Longue- 
 ville, where all the great solemnities of the monarchy 
 were carried out, and to which the people were always 
 admitted. Its vaulted roof is supported by three ranges of 
 pillars, the central the strongest. At the end of the ancient 
 hall stood the royal dining-table, of a single block of marble, 
 so large ' que jamais on vit pareille tranche de marbre au 
 monde.' This table was sometimes used as a pillory, and 
 often as a stage for the theatrical representations of the 
 clerks of the palace, in which they were allowed to burlesque 
 their superiors. At the other end of the hall, a beautiful 
 
 * Corroiet, Antiquitis de ParU. 
 
PALAIS DE LA CITE 271 
 
 gothic chapel was added by Louis XI. ■ The old hall is thus 
 described by Victor Hugo. 
 
 ' Une double voiite en ogive, lambrissee en sculptures de bois, 
 peinte d'azur, fleurdelisee en or ; un pav^ alternatif de marbre blanc 
 et noir ; sept piliers dans la longueur de la salle, soutenant, au milieu 
 de sa largeur, les retomb^es de la double votite ; autour des quatre 
 premiers piliers des boutiques de marchands ; autour des trois derniers, 
 des bancs de bois de chene, us^s et polis par le haut-de-chausse des 
 plaideurs et la robe des procureurs. Alentour de la salle, le long de 
 la haute muraille, entre les portes, entre les crois^es, entre les piliers, 
 I'lnterminable rang^e des statues de tous les rois de France depuis 
 Pharamond ; puis, aux longues fen^tres ogives, des vitraux aux mille 
 couleurs ; aux larges issues de la salle, de riches portes finement 
 sculptees, et le tout, voutes, piliers, murailles, chambranles, lambris, 
 portes, statues, recouverts, du haut en bas, d'une splendide enluminure 
 bleue et or.' — Notre Dame de Paris. 
 
 On one side of the existing hall is a monument by 
 Dumont to Malesherbes, the defender of Louis XVI. , with a 
 statue, and the inscription ' Strenue, semper fidelis regi suo, 
 in solio veritatem, praesidium in carcere attulit.' Another 
 monument, with a statue by Chapu, commemorates Berryer. 
 
 Leaving the hall by the gallery which runs parallel to 
 the Cour d'Honneur, and turning at once to the right by 
 the Galerie Marchanie or des Merciers — named from the 
 tradesmen who once had stalls there — we reach a new Salle 
 des Fas Perdus, the work of Due, decorated at one end 
 with statues of S. Louis and Philippe Auguste, at the other 
 with those of Charlemagne and Napoleon I. Grouped 
 around this hall are the different law courts. The Galerie 
 S. Louis (on the right of the Galerie des Marchands) re- 
 produces the style of the time of Louis IX. Near the 
 prison of Marie Antoinette are shown the stone tables ' des 
 charit^s de S. Louis.' 
 
 From the time of S. Louis, Parliament shared the palace 
 
272 PARIS 
 
 with the king, and after the accession ol Henri II., who 
 lived entirely at the H6tel des Tournelles, it was left in sole 
 possession. But the Parliament perished with the Revolu- 
 tion, which it had contributed to bring about. Suspended 
 by a law of November 3, 1789, it was suppressed on August 
 29 following. Then the massacres in the prisons were 
 organised in the former hotel of its President, and the 
 tribunal of executioners sat in the Cour de Mai, at the foot 
 of the grand staircase, opposite what was then the principal 
 entrance to the Conciergerie. M. de Montmorin, the 
 former governor of Fontainebleau ; Bachmann, the major of 
 the Swiss guard, and seven of his officers, were the first 
 victims, sentenced and executed here on the spot. Then, 
 for twenty-four hours the palace was given up to massacre, 
 in the corridors, in the courts, in the cells. Most of the 
 prisoners were killed without any examination. If thirty- 
 six were allowed to escape, it was because they were known 
 to be thieves, or assassins of the worst description. The 
 women were spared, only one out of seventy being executed 
 with the most refined tortures. 
 
 ' Une jeune fiUe d'une admirable beauty, connue sous le nom de la 
 Belle Bouquetiire, accusee d'avoir blesse, dans un acc^s de jalousie, un 
 sous-officier des gardes franfaises, son amant, devait ^tre jug^e sous 
 peu des jours. Les assassins, parmi lesquels se trouvaient des vengeurs de 
 son crime et des instigateurs animes par sa rivale, devancirent I'office 
 du bourreau. Theroigne de Mericourt prete son genie k ce supplice. 
 Attaches nue i un poteau, les jambes ecartees, les pieds clou& au sol, 
 on brula avec des torches de paille enflammee le corps de la victime. 
 On lui coupa les seins i coups de sabre ; on fit rougir des fers de piques, 
 qu'on lui enfonja dans les chairs. Empal^e enfin sur ces fers rouges, 
 ses cris traversaient la Seine et allaient frapper d'horreur les habitants 
 de la rive opposee. Une cinquantaine de femmes delivrees de la Con- 
 ciergerie par les tueurs prgt^rent leurs mains \ ces supplices et surpas- 
 s^rent les hommes en. ferpcite.' — Lamartine, 
 
LA CONCIERGERIE 273 
 
 From March 1791, the revolutionary tribunal met in the 
 Grand Chamber, which — much altered otherwise — still re- 
 tained the vaulted roof of Louis XII. The president sat 
 'beneath a bust of Socrates, to which busts of Le Pelletier 
 and Marat were added after their death. It was here that 
 Charlotte Corday, Marie Antoinette, the Girondins, Mme 
 Roland, and hundreds of others, were tried in turn, iri 
 sittings by day and night, whence Fouquier emerged so 
 fatigued with his horrible task, that he could scarcely drag 
 himself to his own rooms near the Conciergerie, which the 
 secretaries of the procureur-gtn'eral occupy now. So dazed 
 was he with the blood he poured out, that one day, passing 
 the Pont-Neuf with Sdran, he declared that instead of water 
 he saw the Seine rolling blood. 
 
 Two parasite buildings, the Conciergerie, and the Pre- 
 fecture of Police, are now annexed to the Palais de Justice. 
 The Conciergerie takes its name from the house of the con- 
 cierge in the time of the royal residence here, who had a right 
 to two ' poules ' a day and to the cinders and ashes of the 
 king's chimney. It has always been a prison, and it was 
 here that the Comte d'Armaguac was murdered, June 12, 
 1418. Here was made, below the level of the Seine, the 
 prison called La Souricifere, from the rats which had the 
 reputation of eating the prisoners alive. The present Con- 
 ciergerie occupies the lower story of the right wing of 
 the existing Palais de Justice, and extends along the Quai 
 de I'Horloge, as far as the towers of Montgommery and 
 C^sar. It has an entrance on the quay, before which the 
 guillotine- carts received the victims of the Reign of Terror, 
 and another to the right of the great staircase in the Cour 
 d'Honneur. • ■ . ' . ■ 
 
 T 
 
274 PARIS 
 
 The Conciergerie can only be visited on Thursdays from 12 to 4, 
 with an order from the Prefecture of Police. 
 
 All other associations of the Conciergerie are lost in 
 those which were attached to it by the great Revolution. 
 The cell in which Marie Antoinette suffered her seventy- five 
 days' agony — from August 2 till October 15, when she was 
 condemned — was turned into a chapelk expiatoire in 1816. 
 The lamp still exists which lighted the august prisoner and 
 enabled her guards to watch her through the night. The 
 door still exists (though changed in position)which was cut 
 transversely in half and the upper part fixed that the queen 
 might be forced to bend in going out, because she had said 
 that whatever indignities they might inflict upon her they 
 could never force her to bend the head. 
 
 ' La misericorde de Richard le concierge, soutenue, enhardie par 
 I'approbation muette et I'appui secret de quelques officiers de la muni- 
 cipality trompait les ordres de Fouquier, et la reine ^tait installee, 
 non dans un cachot, mais dans une chambre dont les deux fen^tres 
 donnaient sur la cour des femmes. C'etait une assez grande piece 
 carrel^e, I'ancienne salle du Conseil, ou les magistrats des cours f ouve- 
 raines venaient, avant la Revolution, recevoir, \ certains jours de 
 I'annee, les reclamations des prisonniers. Au mur, comme si les choses 
 avaient autour de la reine une Sme et une parole, le vieux papier 
 montrait des fleurs de lys s'en allant en lambeaux et s'effajant sous le 
 salpStre. Une cloisori, au milieu de laquelle s'ouvrait une grande bale, 
 s^parait la piece dans toute sa largeur en deux chambres presque dgales, 
 ^clair^es chacune par une fenetre sur la cour. La chambre du fond 
 fut la chambre de la reine ; I'autre chambre, dans laquelle ouvrait la 
 porte, devint la chambre des deux gendarmes qui y passaient le jour et 
 la nuit, separes seulemcnt de la reine par un paravent d^plie en 
 travers de la baie. 
 
 ' Tout le mobilier de la chambre de Marie Antoinette ^tait une 
 couchette de bois, i droite, en entrant, en face la fenetre ; et une 
 chaise de paille, dans I'embrasure de la fenetre, sur laquelle la reine 
 passait presque toute la journ^e i regarder dans la coui des, viyants aller 
 
LA CONCIERGERIE 275 
 
 et venir, k saisir au passage, dans les conversations a haute voix pris 
 de sa fenetre, les nouvelles que lui jetaient les prisonnieres. 
 
 ' La reine n'avait pu emporter son linge, mis sous scelle au Temple ; 
 et Michouis dcrivait, le 19 aoftt, aux officiers municipaux composant 
 le service du Temple : " Citoyens coUegues, Marie-Antoinette me 
 charge de lui faire passer quatre chemises et une paire de souliers non 
 num^rot&, dont elle a un pressant besoin." Ces quatre malheureuses 
 chemises, demand^es par Michouis, bientdt reduites \ trois, ne seront 
 delivrees i la reine que de dix jours en dix jours. La reine n'a plus 
 que deux robes, qu'elle met de deux jours I'un : sa pauvre robe noire, 
 sa pauvre robe blanche, pourries toutes deux par I'humidit^ de sa 
 chambre ... II faut s'arr^ter ici ; les mots manquent. 
 
 ' Longs jours, longs mois ! Elle priait, elle lisait, elle tenait son 
 courage pret.' — De Goncourt, 'Hist, de Marier Antoinette.' 
 
 After her condemnation, Marie Antoinette was not 
 brought back to this chamber. It was a far more miserable 
 cell which saw her write her last touching farewell to Madame 
 Elisabeth. But this was the room in which the Girondins 
 spent their last night, when, as Riouffe, himself iri the prison 
 at the time, says, 'toute cette nuit affreuse retentit de leurs 
 chants, et s'ils les interrompaient c'dtait pour s'entretenir de 
 leur patrie.' The adjoining cell, now used as a sacristy, was 
 the prison of Robespierre. 
 
 Lighted by narrow windows from the same inner court of 
 the prison are cells occupied in turn by Bailly, Malesherbes, 
 Madame Elisabeth, Mme Roland, Camille Desmoulins, 
 Danton, and Fabre d'Eglantine. In 1 792, 288 prisoners were 
 massacred in the prison. Afterwards Georges Cadoudal was 
 imprisoned here. The Comte de la Valette was rescued from 
 hence by the courage of his wife. In later days Louvel, the 
 assassin of the Due de Berri, Teste, B^ranger, and Proudhon, 
 have been amongst the prisoners of the Conciergerie. 
 
 ' La grande salle d'entree ^clairee par le jour douteux de deux 
 guichets, car I'unique crois^e donnant sur la cour d'arrivee est entiere- 
 
 T 2 
 
276 PARIS 
 
 went prise par le greffe qui I'encadre, presente aux regards une atmo- 
 sphere et une lumiere parfaitement en harmonie avec les images pre- 
 con9ues par I'imagination. Cast d'autant plus effrayant que parallfele- 
 ment aux tours d'Argent et de Montgommery, vous apercevez ces cryptes 
 mysterieuses, vofltees, formidables, sans lumiere, qui tournent autour 
 du parlolr, qui menent aux cacliots de la reine, de Madame Elisabeth, et 
 aux cellules appelees ks secrets.' — Balzac, ' Seines de la vie farisienne.' 
 
 'Le regime de la Conciergerie ^tait le meme pour tous ; le due, 
 par cela seul qu'il ^tait due, n'etait pas distingue du voleur, mais seule- 
 ment il , payait mieux : c'^tait \k qu'on avait realist I'^galite, autant 
 qu'il est possible de concevoir un tel systfeme, mais c'etait I'egalite de 
 misere. 
 
 ' En voyant circuler ensemble, k travers les enormes barreaux qui 
 divisaient la prison, des assassins, des philosophes, des dues, des 
 princes, des pontes, des financiers, des voleurs, Barnave me disait un 
 jour: "En considerant ces hautes puissances, ces philosophes, ces 
 legislateurs, ces vils miserables, ici confondus, ne vous semble-t-il pas 
 qu'on est transport^ sur les bords de ce fleuve infernal dont nous paile 
 la Fable, et qu'on doit passer sans retour ? " " Oui," lui dis-je, " et nous 
 sommes sur I'avant-scene." Le malheureux fut assassine quelques jours 
 apres. 
 
 ' A minuit, le concierge visitait tous les cachols, toutes les chambres, 
 accompagn^ de deux guichetiers et de deux enormes chiens. Tandis 
 qu'il conversait avec nous, I'un des guichetiers s'en allait sondant les 
 murs et le plafond avec une longue pique pour -s'assurer si Ton o'y avait 
 pas fait quelques trous. 
 
 ' Pour peu que la riviere soit haute, le bas de la Conciergerie, qui 
 en est tres-voisine, se trouve a son niveau : alors I'humidite r^gne 
 partout, I'eau ruisselle le long des murs. Une fumee epaisse infectant 
 I'haleine, I'^tat de misere, les maux degofitants des habitants de ces 
 lieux, vous affecte la vue, et vous fait soulever le coeur aussitot que 
 vous y mettez le pied : ce sont les vapeurs de I'enfer qui s'exhalent des 
 bouches de I'Averne. II semble qu'on eut choisi a dessein I'endroit oil 
 ces horreurs sont surtout amoncelees, pour en faire le s^jour de la 
 malheureuse Marie-Antoinette. ' 
 
 . < Parmi les innombrables victimes que j'ai vu condamner h. perdre 
 la vie, je ne sache pas que plus de trois ou quatre aient montre la 
 moindre faiblesse. De ce petit nombre fut la fameuse Mme Dubarry ; 
 je I'ai vue defaillante dans la Conciergerie aprfe sa condemnation : ellfe 
 criait : Au secours ! en allant au supplice. Dans une situation pareille, 
 le 4uc du Chatelet, n'ayant point de moyens pour s'arracher la vie,;,se. 
 
LA SAINTE-CHAPELLE 277 
 
 frappa la tfite centre les murs. Ne pouvant avoir d'armes offensives, 
 il cassa un carreau de vitre, et crut se donner la mort en se fondant le 
 c&t^ avec le verre brise ; niais il ne put y rdussir, et ne parvint qu'k 
 s'inonder de son sang : il fut conduit en cet etat a I'echafaud. A ces 
 exceptions pr^s, tous les condamnes ^talent aussi tranquilles, quelque 
 fois aussi gais, apres leur jugement que auparavant.' — Beaulieu, 'Essais 
 hisioriques.' 
 
 Let US now turn to the left by one of the three vaulted 
 passages which lead from the Cour d'Honneur to the Sainte 
 Chapelle (open to the public daily, except Monday and 
 Friday, from 1 2 to 4) which, in spite of a restoration almost 
 amounting to renewal, is still one of the most beautiful 
 buildings in France. The earliest chapel of the palace, 
 which is supposed to have occupied the same site, was dedi- 
 cated to S. Barthdlemy ; the second, to S. Nicolas. 
 
 It was the reception of the Crown of Thorns from Jean 
 de Brienne, Emperor of Constantinople,' and a great por- 
 tion of the True Cross from his successor Baudouin,^ which 
 made S. Louis determine to build a shrine worthy to con- 
 tain them. Pierre de Montereau was employed as an archi- 
 tect, and the Sainte Chapelle, begun in 1242, was finished 
 in 1247. The two stories of the building, forming two 
 chapels, were consecrated April 25, 1248, the upper under 
 the title of S. Couronne and S. Croix, the lower under that 
 of S. Marie. 
 
 ' De tout tenrips cet edifice, du au maitre Pierre de Montereau, fut 
 considere avec raison comme un chef-d'oeuvre. Le roi saint Louis 
 n'^pargna rien pour en faire le plus brillant joyau de la capitale de ses 
 domaines ; et si une chose a lieu de nous etonner, c'est le peu de temps 
 employe k sa construction. En prenant les dates les plus larges, on 
 
 ^ A similar relic — the duplicate of this — is preserved, under three keys, in the 
 Dominican monastery at Vicenza ! 
 
 "^ Those believed to be possessed by evil spirits were brought hither on the night 
 of Good Friday to be freed from the devil by the sight of the True Cross. 
 
278 PARIS 
 
 doit admettre que la sainte Chapelle fut fondle et compUtement achevee 
 dans I'espace de cinq ans ; huit cent mille livres tournois auraient ete 
 employees k sa construction, k sa decoration it k I'acquisition des pre- 
 cieuses reliques qu'elle renfermait. Si I'on observe avec une scrupuleuse 
 attention les caract^res archeologiques de la sainte Chapelle, on est 
 force de reconnaitre I'exactitude des dates historiques. La mode de 
 construction et rornamentation appartiennent k cette miniine fraction 
 du xiii' si^cle. Pendant les r^gnes de Philippe-Auguste et de saint 
 Louis, les progris de I'architecture sont si rapides, qu'une periode de 
 cinq annees y introduit des modifications sensibles : or, la plus grande 
 unit^ regne dans I'edifice, de la base au sommet.'— Violkt-k-Duc. 
 
 The great height of the building, without visible aisles 
 or transept, is very striking. The lower part of the north 
 side and part of the chevet are hidden by modern buildings, 
 The buttresses, which sustain all the weight of the vaults, 
 rise to the full height of the building between the windows, 
 and terminate in rich foliated pinnacles. Between them, 
 gables, richly sculptured, surmount the windows of the 
 upper chapel. Beneath the fourth window is an oratory 
 constructed by Louis XI. that he might hear mass without 
 being seen, and beneath this an oratory formerly dedicated 
 to S. Louis. The steeple is a modern restoration of one 
 erected by Charles "VIII. and burnt in 1630. The portal is 
 on the west facing the buildings of the Hotel du Prdfet de 
 Police. Above the platform over the porch is the great 
 flamboyant rose-window which was added by Charles VIII. 
 in 1495, surmounted by a balustrade of fleurs-de-lis and by 
 turrets on either side of the gable, which contains a smaller 
 rose-window. On the balustrade two angels crown the 
 chiffre of King Charles. On the pinnacles hangs the Crown 
 of Thorns. 
 
 The sculptures of the lower porch refer to the Virgin, as 
 those of the upper to Christ. The lower portal is divided 
 
LA SAINTE-CHAPELLE 279 
 
 into two bays, between which an ancient statue of the 
 Virgin has been restored, as well as a relief of her Coronation 
 in the tympanum. In the lozenges of the stylobate of the 
 columns, the lilies of France alternate with the towers of 
 Castille, in honour of Queen Blanche, mother of St. Louis. 
 The chapel is a nave with narrow aisles. Forty pillars sus- 
 tain the vaulting, of which the keys, in sculptured chestnut- 
 wood, are very remarkable. The windows are curved 
 triangles. The wall-decorations are restorations from traces 
 of ancient work. The floor is paved with thirty-four curious 
 gravestones, chiefly of canons of the Sainte Chapelle. 
 Boileau was buried amongst them. The tomb-stone of his 
 brother Jacques still remains here, but the remains of the 
 poet were removed, after the Revolution, to S. Germain des 
 Pr^s. 
 
 'On I'enterra, non point i S. Jean-leRond ou k Notre Dame, 
 comma la position de son dernier logis ' semblait le demander, mais k 
 la Sainte-Chapelle, sa paroisse natale et le champ clos des heros de 
 son epopee. II I'avait voulu ainsi dans son testament. Quand on 
 souscrivit ci cette derniere volont^ par un jeu singulier du hasard, il 
 arriva que sa tombe fut placee juste au-dessous de ce lutrin qu'il avait 
 si comiquement chante.' — Fournier, ^ Paris ds'moli.' 
 
 No external stair leads to the upper chapel, because it 
 was the royal oratory opening from the palace. We ascend, 
 by an inner staircase, to the platform of the upper porch, a 
 vast covered balcony, forming the real approach, by which 
 the royal family entered, and communicating on. the north 
 with the palace galleries. Hence the upper chapel is 
 entered ~by a gothic double portal, of which the beautiful 
 wreathed-work at the sides is ancient ; the statue of Christ 
 is a restoration. On the lintel is the'Last Judgment, and 
 
 * In the Cloitre Notre Dame. . 
 
■28o 
 
 PARIS 
 
 in the tympanum is the Saviour with his hands raised, 
 having the Virgin and S. John at the sides. The bas-relief 
 of the Creation and History of the Old Testament at the 
 base, are also restorations. 
 
 LA SAINTE-CHAPEi.LE. 
 
 The upper church is a mass of gilding, and harmonious 
 in colour from the fifteen stained windows, which, as far as 
 possible, are restorations of the old windows mutilated during 
 and after the Revolution. Eleven are filled with scenes 
 
LA SAINTE-CHAPELLE 281 
 
 from Old Testament history, but three in the apse and one 
 in the nave are devoted to legendary history and that of the' 
 translation of the chapel relics. In the great rose of 
 Charles VIII., the subjects are taken from the Apocalypse. 
 Below the windows is an arcade, with sculptures representing 
 martyrdoms. Beautiful statues of the twelve apostles lean 
 against the lower pillars, all bearing a cross of consecration. 
 The fourth, fifth, and sixth statues on the left, and the third, 
 fourth, and fifth on the right, are ancient. These statues 
 and the small figures of angels have shaken off the stillness 
 and stiffness which characterised the earlier style (as at 
 Notre Dame, Amiens, &c.), and are represented in move- 
 ment, displaying the germ of theatrical mannerism, but as 
 yet simple and full of grace.^ 
 
 * Ces figures sont executees en liais, du plus admirable travail, et 
 couvertes d'ornements peints et dor^s imitant de riches ^toffes 
 rehaussees par des bordures seniles de pierreries.' — Violkt-le-Duc, 
 i. 27. 
 
 Under the windows of the fourth bay on either side the 
 nave are niches, containing the places of honour reserved 
 for the king and queen. In the fifth bay (right) a grille 
 permitted Louis XI. to assist, unseen, at mass. Left of the 
 altar a door opens to the sacristy. In the second bay (left) 
 a little door communicated with an external gallery. The 
 altar, before which many royal marriages had taken place, 
 and several queens (amongst others Isabeau de Bavifere) 
 had been crowned, was destroyed during the Revolution, 
 and, with the reliquary above it, is a restoration, 
 
 ' C'est une grande arche de bronze dor^e et ornee de quelques 
 figures sur le devant ; elle est elev^e sur une voflte gothique sise 
 
 X Liibke, 
 
282 PARIS 
 
 derriere le mattre autel, au rond-point de Teglise, et est fermee avec 
 dix clefs de serrures differentes, dont six ferment les deux portes ex- 
 terieures, et les quatre autres un treillis intirieur i deux battants.'^ 
 Jsr6ine Morand, ' Hist, de la Sainte-Chaplk.' 
 
 One of the little tourelles at the sides of the shrine, that 
 on the north, still contains the actual wooden stair which 
 was ascended by S. Louis, when he went to take from its 
 tabernacle the Crown of Thorns, which he, and he alone, was 
 permitted to exhibit to the people below, through a large 
 pane of glass, purposely inserted and always movable, in 
 the end window of the apse. 
 
 ' Un peu en arrl^re de I'autel, una arcature k jour traverse I'abside 
 dans toute sa largeur ; la disposition en est semblable k celle des 
 anciens jubes ; mais elle n'a pas la mdme destination. EUe se com- 
 pose de sept ogives l^g^res, portees par de fines colonnettes, rehaussees 
 de mosaiques de verre et decorees d'anges. L'arcade mediane, plus 
 spacieuse que celles qui I'accompagnent, est couronnee d'une plate- 
 forme oil s'^leve, k une grande hauteur, un baldaquin ogival, sculpte 
 en bois, i I'abri duquel la chasse des saintes reliques etait autrefois 
 exposee. Cette chasse, ^tincelante de pierreries, dominait, du 
 sommet de son estrade, la chapelle enti^re.' — F. de Guilhermy. 
 
 It is recorded that when S. Louis was in Paris, he 
 would rise to pray three times in the night, always approach- 
 ing the altar on his knees. As an old chronicler says of the 
 Sainte Chapelle — 'c'^toit son arsenal contre toutes les 
 traverses du monde.' 
 
 ' Une femme, qui avoit nom Sarrette, et qui plaidoit en la cour du 
 roi, lui dit un jour : " Fi ! fi ! devrois-tu etre roi de France ? moult 
 mieux seroit qu'un autre f(it roi que toi ; car tu es roi tout seulement 
 des fr^res Mineurs, des fr^res PrScheurs, des prfitres et des clercs. 
 Grand dommage est que tu sois roi de France, et c'est grand'merveille 
 que tu n'es boute hois du royaume." Les sergents du benolt roi la 
 vouloient battre et mettre dehors ; mais Loys defendit qu'ils la 
 touchassent, et lui ripondit en souriant : " Certes, tu dis vrai, je ne suis 
 digne d'etre roi, et, s'il avoit plu i notre Seigneur, mieux eut valu 
 
LA SAINTE-CHAPELLE 283 
 
 qu'un autre fflt roi, qui mieux sflt gouverner le royaume." Et il com- 
 manda i I'un de ses chambellans de donner de I'argent k cette femme.' 
 — Geoffroi de Beaulieu. 
 
 The precious relics of the Sainte Chapelle are now in 
 the treasury of Notre Dame. The head of S. Louis had 
 been brought hither from S. Denis. 
 
 ' Le chef de Saint Louis est dans cette eglise. II appartenoit an 
 tr&or de Saint-Denis ; mais le roi Philippe le Bel obtint du pape, que 
 le chef et une c6te de Saint Louis, seroient transport^ dans la chapelle 
 de Paris. Neanmoins, pour ne pas trop affliger les Benedictins, qui se 
 lamentolent sur cette perte, on laissa au tresor la mdchoire inferieure 
 de ce chef. 
 
 ' Le chantre porte en haut de son biton une t^te antique de 
 I'Empereur Titus, qu'on a metamorphosee en tete de Saint-Louis, k 
 raison de quelques traits de ressemblance. 
 
 ' Ainsi I'empereur Titus assiste tous les jours k I'office de la Sainte- 
 Chapelle, tenant d'une main une petite croix, et de I'autre une couronne 
 d'^pines. Certes, I'empereur Titus ne s'y attendoit pas ! ' — Tableau de 
 Paris, 1782. 
 
 Every year, at the opening of the law courts, the 
 Messe rouge or des reverences used to be said in the Sainte 
 Chapelle, and was so called because the members of Parlia- 
 ment assisted at it in full dress, and made reverences on 
 either side as they advanced to the altar. 
 
 Under the kings, and afterwards, as long as the Palace 
 was the seat of the Parliament, the Sainte Chapelle was 
 served by canons who held their office directly from the 
 pope. The treasurer wore a mitre and officiated pontifically, 
 and is designated in different deeds as '■pape de la Sainte 
 Chapelle.' The first who enjoyed these prerogatives, cele- 
 brated by Boileau in the Lutrin, was Hugues Boileau (con- 
 fessor of Charles V.), a member of the poet's family. 
 
 In the court of the palace, opposite the Sainte Chapelle, 
 Boileau came to live, after his father's death, in 1657. 
 
284 PARIS ' ' " 
 
 The Hotel de la Cour de Comptes, built (1740) from 
 designs of Gabriel, replaces the beautiful renaissance Hotel 
 des Comptes, built by Jean Joconde under Louis XIL, and 
 destroyed by the fire of 1757. 
 
 The Avenue de Constantine will lead us to the Rue de 
 la Citd (formerly Rue de la Lanterne, de la Juiverie, and du 
 March6-Palu), which crosses the island from the Pont 
 Notre Dame to the Petit Pont. Neither of these bridges is 
 now of the slightest interest, but in the last century the Pont 
 Notre Dame, built in 1500, defended at the ends by tourelles 
 and lined on either side by quaint gabled houses, with open 
 shops beneath, was especially picturesque. One of its 
 bridge-shops belonged to the famous picture- dealer Gersaint, 
 and had a sign painted and given by Watteau. Close to 
 the bridge, and by the spot where the ancient Porte de la 
 Cit^ stood, was the Prison de Glauciri, where S. Denis, the 
 Apostle of the Gauls, was immured. From very early times 
 this cell was transformed into an oratory, and as early as 
 1 01 5 the knight Ansolde and his wife Rotrude founded a 
 convent of secular canons opposite it, in honour oi Monsieur 
 Saint Denis. The oratory, under various names, S. 
 Catherine, S. Denis de la Chartre, and S. Symphorien, 
 existed till 1704, when the building was given to the 
 Academy of S. Luke. The conventual church contained, 
 till its demolition in 1810, a group by Michel Anguier re- 
 presenting S. Denis in prison receiving the sacrament from 
 the Saviour himself, and over the portal was inscribed, 
 ' Icy est la chartre en laquelle saint Denis fut mis prison- 
 nier, 0(1 notre Sauveur Jdsus le visita et lui bailla son pr6- 
 cieux corps et sang. II y a grand pardon pour toutes 
 personnes qui visiteront ce saint lieu.' The site of S. Denis 
 
LA CEINTURE S. i.LOI 285 
 
 de la Chartre is now covered by the new wing of the Hotel 
 Dieu. 
 
 The street which opened opposite S. Denis first bore 
 the name of Micra Madiana — the little Midian — from its 
 Jewish inhabitants. It was afterwards called Rue de la 
 Pelleterie, from the trade which at one time almost exclu- 
 sively occupied it. At the end of the street was the church 
 of S. Barthelemy, which served as a chapel to the palace ot 
 the Merovingian kings, and which Hugues Capet endowed 
 with the relics of S. Magloire, Bishop of Dol. It became 
 a parish church in ir4o; its rebuilding in the style of 
 Louis XVI. was begun in 1775, but it was unfinished at the 
 Revolution, when it was totally destroyed, together with the 
 neighbouring church of S. Pierre des Arcis and that of S. 
 Croix, which had become parochial in 1134. 
 
 On the right of the broad Avenue Constantine, which 
 leads from the Palais de Justice, across the centre of the 
 island, to the Rue de la Cit^, on the site now occupied by 
 the great Caserne dela Citd, was the Ceinture S. Eloi. This' 
 contained the vast monastery of S. Eloi, which the sainted 
 goldsmith founded in a house facing the palace that he 
 had received from Dagobert, and placed under the govern- 
 ment of S. Aure, who died there of the plague in October 
 666, with 160 of her nuns. In the monastic church, Philippe 
 de Villette, abbot of S. Denis, escaped from the terrible 
 massacre by the Burgundians, by clinging to the altar,, 
 dressed in his pontifical robes, and with the Host in his 
 hands. The monastery of S. Eloi was bestowed in r629 
 upon the Barnabites, for whom its church was rebuilt in 
 1703. Church and monastery were alike destroyed in 1859 
 tg build the. barrack. At the entrance- of the precincts of. 
 
286 PARIS 
 
 S. Eloij opposite the palace, at the angle of the Rue de la 
 Vieille Draperie and de la Barillerie, stood, till 1605, a pyra- 
 midal monument, marking the site of the paternal home of 
 the nineteen-years-old student, Jean Chastel, razed to the 
 ground by decree of Parliament, after he had been per- 
 suaded by the Jesuits to his attack upon Henri IV. (Dec. 27 
 1594), whom he only succeeded in wounding in the upper 
 lip. The site was afterwards occupied by the Fontaine du 
 Palais, inscribed — 
 
 ' Hie, ubi manabant sacri monumenta furoris, 
 Eluit infandum Miroris iinda scelus. ' 
 
 The Street which ran along the side of the northern walls 
 of S. Eloi was called, from its inhabitants, the Rue de la 
 Draperie. Opposite where it fell into the Rue de la Juiverie, 
 as the second part of the Rue de la Citd was formerly called, 
 stood the church of La Madeleine, into which a Jewish 
 synagogue was converted in the reign of Philippe Auguste, 
 and which consequently observed the custom of reciting the 
 office of Good Friday upon every Friday in Lent to the 
 intention of the conversion of the Jews. From the 
 XIII c. the curd of La Madeleine bore the title of arch- 
 priest, which secured him a supremacy over all other curds 
 of the diocese : the little church was also the seat of the 
 oldest of Parisian confraternities — la grande confrerie de 
 Notre Dame aux seigneurs, prHres, et bourgeois de Paris, 
 which had the archbishop for its abbot and the president of 
 Parliament for its dean, and possessed 25,000 livres of rental. 
 La Madeleine was sold and pulled down at the Revolution, 
 but a pretty side door belonging to it, which opened, from 
 15 1 2, upon the Rue de Licorne, continued in existence here 
 till 1843, when, on the opening of the Rue de Constantine, 
 
LA GAZETTE DE FRANCE 287 
 
 it was adapted to the presbytery of S. S^verin. Opposite 
 la Madeleine was the famous tavern of the Pomme de Pin, 
 the great resort of XVI. c. and XVII. c. wits, which Rabelais 
 counted amongst ' les tabernes m^ritoires ou cauponisoient 
 joyeusement les escholiers de Lutfece,' and of which Regnier 
 writes — 
 
 ' Ou maints rubis balais, tous rougissants de vin, 
 Montraient un Hac itur h. la Pomme de Pin. ' — Sat. x. 
 
 A little farther down the Rue de la Juiverie on the 
 western side, was the Halle de Beauce, a corn exchange, 
 which existed from immemorial times till the XVI. c. 
 Beyond this the Rue de la Calandre opened west- 
 wards, and here, in the ' Maison du Paradis,' S. Marcel, 
 Bishop of Paris, is said to have been born in the VI. c, 
 in honour of which, on Ascension Day, the chapter 
 of Notre Dame visited it, in solemn procession, annually, 
 In the Rue de la Calandre, at the house called from its sign, 
 du Grand Coq, Th^ophraste Renaudot, in 1630, printed the 
 first Parisian newspaper. La Gazette de France. 
 
 ' Theophraste Renaudot, medecin i Paris, ramassoit de tous cotes 
 des nouvelles pour amuser ses malades : il se vit bient6t plus k la mode 
 qu'aucun de ses confreres ; mais comme toute une ville n'est pas 
 malade, ou ne s'imagine pas I'fitre, 11 r^fl^chit, au bout de quelques 
 annees, qu'il pourroit se faire un revenu plus considerable en donnant, 
 chaque semaine, au public, des feuilles volantes qui contiendroient des 
 nouvelles de divers pays. II falloit une permission ; il I'obtint, avec 
 privilege, en 1632. II y avoit longtemps qu'on avoit imaging de 
 pareilles feuilles h. Venise, et on les avoit appellees gazettes, parce qu'on 
 payoit, pour les lire, una gaaetta, petite pi^ce de monnoye : voilk 
 I'origine de notre gazette et de son nom.'— iajW-i^jja:, ' Essais hist, 
 sar Paris,' 1 776. 
 
 Beyond the opening of the Rue de Ja Calandre, the Rue 
 de la Citd was called Rue du March^ Palu (/a/i or raised). 
 Here, on the right, beyond the Grande Orberie (Herberie,, 
 
288 PARIS 
 
 afterwards the Marchd Neuf, destroyed i860), stood the 
 ancient basilica of S. Germain le Vieux, founded by Chil- 
 peric after the death of S. Germain, bishop of Paris, in the 
 hope of eventually endowing it with the body of that prelate, 
 provisionally buried in the abbey of S. Vincent, afterwards 
 S. Germain des Pr^s. The church never obtained so great 
 a relic except as a visitor, when it was brought for refuge 
 here within the walls of the Citd, from the Normans, but 
 when it was taken back in peace to the mainland, an arm 
 was left here in recognition of the hospitality it had received. 
 S. Germain le Vieux was sold and entirely destroyed at the 
 Revolution. The space east of the Rue de la Citd is now 
 occupied by the huge buildings of the Hotel Dieu, which, 
 from the earliest times, thpugh on a much smaller scale, has 
 been the neighbour of Notre Dame. The ground now 
 occupied by the hospital was covered till the present century, 
 by a labyrinth of little streets and curious old buildings. 
 Between the Rue de la Lanterne and Rue de la Juiverie 
 (both now swallowed up in the Rue de la Cit^) the Rue des 
 Marmousets ran eastwards to the cloister of Notre Dame, 
 taking its name from a house described as Domus Mar- 
 mosetorum, from the little sculptured figures on its front. 
 It had a door decorated with medallion portraits, and an 
 octagonal tower of the XV. c. (destroyed 1838). Another 
 house pointed out in this street, inspired the neighbours with 
 terror. It was said to have been inhabited by a pastry-cook, 
 who made an alliance with his next neighbour, a barber. 
 When anyone entered the barber's room to be shaved, as 
 soon as he was seated, a trap-door opened beneath his chair, 
 and he disappeared into a cellar communicating with the 
 house of the pastry-cook, who served up his flesh to his 
 
RUE DES URSINS 289 
 
 customers in little patties, which long enjoyed an extraordi- 
 nary popularity in Paris. De Breul, who tells this story, 
 states that the house was razed to the ground, and that it 
 was forbidden ever to build on its site, but Jaillot proves 
 that Pierre Balut, counsellor of Parliament, was permitted 
 to build on the spot by letters patent of Frangois I. in 
 January, 1536.' A curious round tourelle, with a well at its 
 foot, belonging to the house which was then erected, stood 
 till the middle of the present century. The first street 
 towards the river, on the left of the Rue des Marmousets, 
 was the Rue de Glatigny, named from a house which be- 
 longed to Robert and Guillaume de Glatigny in 1241. Title 
 deeds of 1266 speak of houses in Glategniaco. Here was 
 the Val d' Amour, and here, according to Guillot, ' Maignent 
 [demeurent] dames au corps gent, folles de leurs corps.' 
 The priests were forbidden to marry, but, on payment, were 
 permitted to have concubines, till it was forbidden at the 
 Council of Paris in 1212.' Behind the Rue de Glatigny, 
 close to the back of S. Denis de la Ghartre, was the little 
 church of S. Luc, where the relics of S. Cloud were secured 
 from the English, from 1428 to 1443. Eastward from the 
 Rue de Glatigny ran the Haute and Basse Rue des Ursins, 
 part of which still exists. In the Rue Haute des Ursins 
 (also caUed de I'Ymage) stood the old H6tel des Ursins 
 with encorbelled towers above the river, where Jean Juvenal 
 des Ursins lived (1360-1431), who was counsellor to the 
 Chatelet, advocate to Parliament, provost of the trades, 
 advocate and counsellor of the king, and chancellor of the 
 dauphin. He is represented with his wife and eleven children 
 in a curious picture, formerly in Notre Dame and now in 
 
 * See Dulaure, ii, 106, 
 
ago PARIS 
 
 the Louvre, and another portrait in the Louvre represents 
 his son Jean Guillaume, Baron de Traynel, Chancellor of 
 France under Charles VII. and Louis XL It is said that 
 Racine resided for a time at No. 9, Rue Basse des Ursins, 
 of which a fragment still exists. Close to the end of this 
 street was the interesting church of S. Landry, which, in 
 1 160, was already parochial. It contained a shrine, enriched, 
 in 141 8, by Pierre d'Orgemont, with some bones from the 
 shrine of S. Landry at Notre Dame. The Dauvet family 
 restored the church in the XV. c, and it contained the 
 fine tombs of Jehan Dauvet (1471) and Jehan Baudran 
 (1459) his wife, as well as several XVIII. c. monuments 
 to the family of Boucherat, and the epitaph of Pierre de 
 Broussel, surnamed ' patriarche de la Fronde ' and 'le pfere du 
 peuple,' who died in the time of Louis XIV. Here also was 
 the mausoleum of Catherine Duchemin, wife of the famous 
 sculptor Frangois Girardon, bearing a beautiful Pietk in- 
 scribed, ' Le sieur Girardon, voulant consacrer a J^sus- 
 Christ tout ce qu'il pent avoir acquis ^'intelligence et de 
 lumiferes dans son art, a fait et donn^ i I'^glise de Saint- 
 Landry, cet ouvrage au pied duquel il repose des premier 
 Septembre mdccxv.' S. Landry, sold in the Revolution, 
 was occupied as a carpenter's shop till 1829, when it was 
 pulled down. In the Rue S. Landry lived the Councillor 
 Pierre Broussel, famous as a frondeur, and there he was 
 arrested by Comminges, August 26, 1648. A very curious 
 account of his seizure is to be found in the Memoires de 
 Brienne. Behind the church of S. Landry, the Rue d'Enfer 
 ran parallel to the river, having the Hotel de Clavigny on 
 the left. In its early existence it was called Rue Port S. 
 Landry, as it led to the only point of embarkation at the 
 
5. PIERRE AUX B(EUFS 291 
 
 east end of the island, the spot where the coffin of Isabeau 
 de Bavifere, who had died in the Hotel S. Paul, was em- 
 barked for S. Denis, accompanied by a few servants only, 
 after a service in Notre Dame. On the right of the Rue 
 d'Enfer was the church of S. Agnan, founded (c. 11 18) by 
 Archdeacon Etienns de Garlande, formerly Dean of S. 
 Agnan at Orleans. Here the Archdeacon of Notre Dame 
 found S. Bernard despairing at the inefficiency of his 
 preaching in Paris, lamenting through a whole day at the 
 foot of the humble altar, and consoled him with his counsels. 
 The church was sold at the Revolution-, but existed, divided 
 into two stories of a warehouse, till late years. Racine lived, 
 c. 1670, in a house on the south side of the Rue d'Enfer. 
 
 Returning in imagination to the site of S. Landry, the 
 Rue du Chevet led under the east end of the church, to the 
 Rue S. Pierre aux Bceufs, on the eastern side of which was 
 the church of that name, the especial church of the butchers, 
 mentioned in a bull of Innocent II. (1136) as Capella 
 Sancti Petri de Bobus. It was sold at the Revolution, and, 
 after long serving as a wine-cellar, was pulled down in 1837, 
 though its picturesque portal was preserved and applied to 
 the western fa5ade of S. Sdverin. It was in this church that 
 the student Hdmon de la Fosse, converted to paganism by 
 classical studies, attacked the Host in 1503, and proclaimed 
 the worship of Jupiter, for which he had his tongue branded 
 with hot iron, his hand cut off, and was finally burnt alive. 
 It is said that as an expiatory procession was passing after 
 this execution, two cows, being led to the butcher, knelt 
 before the sacrament, whence the name of the church. 
 Close behind S. Pierre, the little church of S. Marine 
 stood from the XI. c, with a parish of twenty houses, 
 
292 PARIS 
 
 and a cur^ who was chaplain to the episcopal prisons. Sold 
 at the Revolution, S. Marine was used first as a popular 
 theatre, then for workshops : it existed till recent times. 
 On the opposite side of the Rue S. Pierre, the Rue Cocatrix 
 ran west, named from the fief of a family which existed here 
 in the XIII. c. 
 
 All these sites are now swallowed up. Most of them 
 are covered by the vast modern buildings of the Hotel Dieu, 
 the Maison Dieu of the middle ages. This is said to have 
 originated in a hospital founded by S. Landry, and was prob- 
 ably the same which a charter of 829 mentions under the 
 name of S. Christophe. But the first building which bore 
 the name of Hotel Dieu, and which stood on the south side 
 of the Place du Parvis Notre Dame, was begun by Philippe 
 Auguste, who gave the title of Salle S. Denis to its first 
 ward. To this, Queen Blanche of Castille added the Salle 
 S. Thomas, and S. Louis continued the work by building 
 the Salle Jaune, with two attendant chapels, along the banks 
 of the river. After being long neglected during the hundred 
 years' war, the Hotel Dieu found a great benefactor in 
 Louis XL, who built the beautiful gothic portals of the two 
 chapels near the Petit Pont, which, with the noble renaiss- 
 ance gable by their sides belonging to the Salle du L^gat, 
 were the great feature of the building till the whole was 
 destroyed by fire on December 30, 1772, when many of the 
 sick perished, the rest being received by the archbishop in 
 Notre Dame. In its next form the Hotel Dieu had no in- 
 terest, except that under the peristyle was a statue of the 
 philanthropist Montyon, who desired that his remains might 
 rest there (1838) in the midst of the poor and sick. It was 
 in this hospital that the poet Gilbert died. The whole of 
 
PARVIS NOTRE DAME 293 
 
 its buildings were pulled down and the present Hotel Dieu, 
 built by Diet, was inaugurated August 11, 1877. 
 
 More open and airy, the island has nowhere lost more 
 m picturesqueness than in the opening out of the Parvis 
 Notre Dame to its present dimensions, and lining it on the 
 left with a straight line of buildings oT featureless houses. 
 The ancient Parvis (paradisus, the earthly paradise — whence 
 the great church, the figure of the heavenly Jerusalem, 
 was seen in all its glory), the spot where the scaffold was 
 erected upon which the Templars protested their innocence 
 before their execution, had been gradually made narrower 
 and surrounded by lofty houses of varied outline. On its 
 right was a fountain (destroyed 1748), and in front of this 
 a statue of unknown origin ' (representing a man holding a 
 book), which was called by the people Le Grand Jeusneur, 
 and became the recipient of all the satires of the time, as 
 the statue of Pasquin at Rome. 
 
 • Dans certains ateliers, on envoie encore les apprentis emprunter 
 chez le coutelier la pierre d algtciser la langzie^ ou acheter chez I'epicier 
 pour detix sous d'huile de coude. Jadis on ne manquait jamais d'envoyer 
 les novices chez M. Legris, le vendeur de gris. Le debutant, arrive 
 sur le parvis, demandait au passant I'adresse du marchand celebre, et 
 cette farce s&ulaire faisait toujours rire.' — S. Drumont, 'Paris a 
 travers les dgesJ* 
 
 On the south of the Parvis, where the buildings of the 
 Hotel Dieu now stand, stood the Hopital des Enfants Trouv^s, 
 having its origin in a house called La Couche, which resulted 
 from the preaching of S. Vincent de Paul, for the rescue of 
 children who used previously to be openly sold, in the Rue 
 
 ^ The Abb6 Lebosuf considers it to have represented Christ holding the book of 
 the New lestament. 
 
294 PAEIS 
 
 S. Landry, for a franc apiece to acrobats or professional beg- 
 gars. The hospital was rebuilt in 1746-4S, with a chapel, 
 celebrated for its ceiling, painted in an imaginary state of 
 ruin, with such power that it seemed to those below as if it 
 must fall and crush them. The second hospital swallowed 
 up the church of S. Genevifeve des Ardents, whither legend 
 asserted that the shepherd-patroness was wont to resort for 
 prayer. The dedication of Sancta Genovefa Parva com- 
 memorated the cure, as the shrine of S. Genevifeve was 
 carried by, of a vast multitude, attacl<ed by the terrible 
 epidemic called des Ardents.^ The hospital of the Enfants 
 Trouv^s has been recently demolished to expose the indif- 
 ferent front of the southern division of the Hotel Dieu. 
 The ugliness and bareness of the hospital, internal and ex- 
 ternal, does not contrast favourably with similar institutions 
 in many provincial towns, notably Beaune, Tonnerre, and 
 Angers. 
 
 The metropolitan cathedral of Notre Dame now faces us 
 in all its gothic magnificence. The remains of an altar of 
 Jupiter discovered in 17 11 indicate that a pagan temple 
 once occupied the site, where c. 375 a ehurch dedicated to 
 S. Stephen was built under Prudentius, eighth bishop of 
 Paris. In 528, through the gratitude of Childebert — ' le 
 nouveau Melchisedech ' — for his recovery from sickness by 
 S. Germain, another far more rich and beautiful edifice 
 arose by the side of the first church, and was destined to 
 become ecclesia parisiaca, the cathedral of Paris. Childebert 
 endowed it with three estates — at Chelles-en-Brie, at La 
 Celle near Montereau, and at La Celle near Frejus, which 
 
 ' No wonder that multitudes died of the 7nal des ardents. The cure prescribed 
 was wine and holy water mingled with scrapings from a stone of the Holy Sepulchre, 
 and in which relics of the saints had been dipped. See Historiens tie' France ^ xi. 
 
NOTRE DAME 295 
 
 last supplied the oil for its sacred ordinances. The new 
 church had not long been finished when La Cit^, in which 
 the monks of S. Germain had taken refuge with their trea- 
 sures, was besieged by the Normans, but it was successfully 
 defended by Bishop Gozlin, who died during the siege. It 
 is believed that the substructions of this church were found 
 daring recent excavations in the Parvis Notre Dame, and 
 
 NOTRK DAME. 
 
 architectural fragments then discovered are now preserved 
 at the Palais des Therm es. 
 
 The first stone of a new and much larger cathedral was 
 laid by Pope Alexander III. in 1163, under Bishop Maurice 
 de Sully : Afundamentis extruxit ecclesiam cui freerat, writes 
 his contemporary Robert of Auxerre. On its first altar 
 Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem, celebrated mass. The 
 work advanced rapidly. The choir was finished in 1185, 
 
296 PARIS 
 
 and two years later Geoffrey Plantagenet, son of Henry II. 
 of England, was buried in front of the high-altar. A few 
 years later Isabelle de Hainaut, wife of Philippe August^ 
 was laid in the same place. Early in the XIII. c, under 
 Bishop Pierre de Nemours, the nave, towers, and facade 
 were completed. It was then that the old church of S. 
 Etienne, where Fredegonde had taken refuge with her trea- 
 sures after the murder of Chilperic (584), was pulled down. 
 The south porch was begun, as its inscription tells, by Jehan 
 de Chelles, master mason, February 12, 1257, the north 
 portal about the same time, and the cathedral was finished 
 by the beginning of the reign of S. Louis, whose funeral 
 service was performed here. 
 
 In spite of serious injuries from firCj no serious restora- 
 tion ruined the glory of the cathedral before the XVII. c. 
 But under Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. the XIV. c. stalls, 
 tombs, roodloft, the open cl6ture, and XII. c. windows of 
 the choir were swept away, and, in 177 1, to give a freer 
 passage for processions, the central pillar of the western 
 portal was removed, with the lower sculptures of its tym- 
 panum. Every year after this saw some destruction under 
 the name of improvement, till the great Revolution broke 
 out, when the greater part of the statues of the portals and 
 choir chapels were destroyed, and the cathedral became a 
 Temple of Reason, Mile Maillard, attended by her priest- 
 esses — figurantes de I'op^ra — being adored as Goddess of 
 Reason k la place du ci-devant Saint Sacrement ! Since 
 1845 the urgency of M. de Montalembert has led to much 
 of these injuries being repaired, and to a magnificent resto- 
 ration of the entire fabric under Viollet-le-Duc, though the 
 whole has since narrowly escaped perishing under the Com- 
 
NOTRE DAME 297 
 
 mune, when all its chairs were piled up in the choir and set 
 on fire, and only the want of air and the dampness of the 
 walls saved the building. 
 
 The magnificent west fagade consists of three stories. 
 The triple portal is surmounted by La Galerie des Rois (de 
 Juda, as being ancestors of Notre Dame) — saved by the in- 
 tervention of the astronomer Dupuis, when their destruction 
 was ordered by the Municipal Council in 1793. In the 
 second story is a great rose-window flanked by double 
 windows enclosed in wide-spreading gothic arches. The 
 third story is an open gallery of slender arches and columns 
 — La Galerie de la Vierge : the statues here are modern.' 
 Four buttresses rising to the top of the building divide it 
 into equal parts, and also mark the width of the towers. 
 They have niches with statues representing Religion, Faith, 
 S. Denis, and S. Stephen. 
 
 ' II est, i coup sflr, peu de plus belles pages architectoniques que 
 cette fa9ade ou, successivement et a la fois, les trois portails creuses 
 en ogive, le cordon brode et dentele des 28 niches royales, I'imroense 
 rosace ccntrale fianquee de ses deux fenetres . laterales, comme le 
 prStre du diacre et du sous-diacre, la haute et. frele galerie d'arcades 
 a trefle qui porte une lourde plate-forme sur ses fines colonnettes, enfin 
 les deux noires et massives tours avec leurs auvents d'ardoises,^ 
 parties harmonieuses d'un tout magnifique superposes en Stages 
 gigantesques, se developpent ^ I'psil, en foule et sans trouble, avec 
 leurs innombrables details de statuaire et de sculpture, rallies puis- 
 sament k la tranquille grandeur de I'ensemble ; vaste symphonic en 
 pierre, pour ainsi dire, oeuvre colossale d'un homme et d'un peuple, 
 tout ensemble une et complexe comme les iliades et les romanceros 
 dont elle est soeur ; produit prodigieux de la cotisation de toutes les 
 forces d'une epoque, ou, sur chaque pierre, on voit jaillir en cent 
 
 ^ The original statue of Adam from this gallery, now in the Magasin at S. Denis, 
 is a very interesting XIV. c. worlc, and ought to be in one of the chapels of Notre 
 Dame. 
 
 ' These are now unfortunately removed. 
 
298 PARIS 
 
 facons la fantaisie de I'ouvrier disciplinee par le genie de I'artiste : 
 sorte de creation humaine, en un mot, puissante et feconde comma la 
 creation divine, dont elle semble avoir d^rob^ le double caract^re : 
 variete, eternite.'— Victor Hugo, ' Notre Dame de Paris.' 
 
 The central ^^onsX—Forie du Jugement—rtctiaXlY re- 
 stored from abominable mutilations by Soufflot, bears a 
 statue of Christ by Geoffrey Dechaume on its dividing 
 pillar. At the sides are the Apostles ; in the medallions the 
 Virtues and Vices. The tympanum (the lower part modern) 
 and vaulting represent the Last Judgment. It vpas beneath 
 this portal that most of the royal and other great marriages 
 have taken place. When Elizabeth of France, daughter of 
 Henri II., married Philippe II. of Spain, it is recorded 
 that Eustace de Bellay, Bishop of I'aris, met her here, ' et 
 se fit la calibration des ^pousailles audit portrail, selon la 
 coutume de notre mfere Sainte Eglise.' 
 
 On the left is the Portail de la Vkrge. 
 
 ' Cette porte est tout un poeme en pierre. Sur le socle du trumeau 
 central est placee la statue de la Vierge tenan I'enfant ; sous ses pieds 
 elle foule le dragon k tete de femme dont la queue s'enroule au tronc 
 de I'arbre de la science. Adam et Eve, des deux cotes de I'arbre, sont 
 tenths par le serpent. Sur la face gauche du socle, est sculpt^e la 
 creation d'Eve, et sur celle de droite, I'ange chassant nos premiers 
 parents du paradis. Un dais tr^s-riche, soutenu par deux anges 
 thuriferaires, surmonte la tSte de la Vierge et se termine par un 
 charmant edicule recouvrant I'arche d'alliance. On voudra bien se 
 rappeler que les litanies donnent k la Vierge le titre d'Arche d'alliance. 
 Ainsi, sur ce trumeau, la glorification de la mire du Christ est complete. 
 Elle tient dans ses bras le Redempteur ; suivant la parole de I'Ecriture, 
 elle ecrase la tete du serpent, et sa divine function est symbolisee par 
 I'arche d'alliance. Sur le linteau de la porte, divise en deux parties 
 par I'^dicule couronnant le dais, sont sculptes, a la droite de la Vierge, 
 trois prophites assis, la tSte couverte d'un voile, tenant un seul 
 phylactere dans une attitude meditative ; k la gauche, trois rois 
 couronnes dans la meme pose. Ces six figures sont les plus belles 
 
NOTRE DAME 299 
 
 entre toutes celles de cette ^poque. La presence des proph^tes est 
 ^xpliquee par Tannonce de la venue du Messie ; quant au rois, ils 
 assistent a la sc^ne comma anc^tres de la Vierge. Les tetes de ces 
 personnages sont particulierement remarquables par I'expression 
 d'intelligeuce meditative qui semble leur donner la vie. 
 
 ' Le second linteau reprisente I'snsevelissement de la Vierge. Deux 
 anges tiennent le suaire et descendent le corps dans un riche sarco- 
 phage. Derrifere le cerceuil est le Christ benissant le corps de sa 
 mfere ; autour de lui les douze apotres, dont les physionomies ex- 
 priment la douleur. Dans le tympan superieur, la Vierge est assise k 
 la droite de son fils, qui lui pose sur la tete une couronne apportee par 
 un ange. Deux autres anges agenouilles des deux cdt^s du tr6ne 
 portent des flambeaux, Dans les quatre rang^es de claveaux qui 
 entourent ces bas-reliefs, sont sculptes des anges, les patriarches, les 
 rois a'ieux de la Vierge et les proph^tes. Un cordon couvert de 
 magnifiques ornements termine les voussures. Mais comma pour 
 donner plus d'ampleur a la courbe finale, une large moulure I'encadre 
 en forme de g^ble renfonce. Cet encadrement repose sur deux 
 colonnettes. 
 
 ' Huit statues garnissent les ^brasements. Voici comment se 
 disposent ces figures. En comnienjant par le jambage a la droite de 
 la Vierge, est place S. Denis portant sa tete et accompagne de deux 
 anges, puis Constantin. Centre I'^brasement oppos6, en face de Con- 
 stantin, est le pape S. Sylvestre, ^ la suite S. Genevieve, S. Etienne 
 et S. Jean-Baptiste. Les statues etant poshes sur les colonnettes de 
 I'arcature inferieure, les tympans r^serv^s entre les arcs qui surmontent 
 ces colonnettes sont par consequent sous les pieds des figures. Chacun 
 de ces tympans porte une sculpture qui se rapporte au personnage 
 superieur. Sous Constantin, deux animaux, un chien et un oiseau, 
 pour signifier le triomphe du christianisme sur le d^mon : sous S. 
 Denis, le bourreau tenant la hache ; sous les deux anges, un lion et un 
 oiseau monstrueux, symboles des puissances que les anges foulent aux 
 pieds ; sous S. Sylvestre, la ville de Byzance ; sous S. Genevieve, un 
 demon ; sous S. Etienne, un Juif tenant une pierre ; sous S. Jean 
 Baptiste, le roi Herode. Dans le fond de I'strcature, sous les petites 
 ogives, sont sculptees en relief tres-plat des scenes se rapportant egale- 
 ment aux statues superieures. Ainsi, sous Constantin, on voit un 
 roi agenouille tenant une banderole, aux pieds d'une femme assise, 
 voilee, couronn^e, nimbee, et tenant un sceptre. Cette femme, c'est 
 I'Eglise, ^ laquelle I'empereur rend hommage. Sous les anges, on voit 
 les combats de ces esprits superieurs centre les esprits rebelles. Sous 
 
300 PARIS 
 
 S. Denis, son martyre ; sous S. Sylvestre, un pape conversant avec un 
 personnage couronne ; sous S. Genevieve, une femme b&ie par une 
 main sortant d'une nu(fe, et recevant I'assistance d'un ange : sous 
 S. Etienne, la representation de son martyre ; sous S. Jean Baptiste, le 
 bourreau donnant la tete du Precurseur a la fille d'Herodiade. A la 
 m6me hauteur, sur les jambages, sont sculptees la Terre, representee 
 par une femme tenant des plantes entre ses mains : la Mer, figuf^e de 
 m4me par une femme assise sur un poisson et tenant une barque. Les 
 pieds-droits exterieurs de la porte sont couverts de veg^taux sculptes 
 avec une rare delicatesse ; les arbres et arbustes sont evidemment 
 symboliques ; on reconnait parfaitement un chene, un hetre, unpoirier, 
 un chataignier, un eglantier. 
 
 ' Trente sept bas-reliefs, sculptes sur les deux faces de chacun des 
 pieds-droits de la porte, composent un almanach de pierre au-dessus 
 des bas-reliefs de la Mer et de la Terre. Ce sont les figures du 
 zodiaque et les divers travaux et occupations de I'annee. 
 
 ' C'est ainsi que les artistes du commencement du xiii« siecle 
 savaient composer une porte de cathedrale.' — Viollei-le-Duc, vii. 421. 
 
 The portal on the right, de S. Anne or de S. Marcel, is 
 the most ancient of the portals, and is composed, in its upper 
 part, of fragments from that of S. Etienne, executed at the 
 expense of Etienne de Garlande, who died in 1142. Other 
 portions come from the central portal of the fagade begun 
 by Bishop Maurice de Sully (ob. 1196), who is himself 
 represented amongst the sculptures, together with Louis VII. 
 On the central pillar is the statue of S. Marcel, ninth bishop 
 of Paris (ob. 436); it is of early XIII. c. The hinges of this 
 door, magnificent specimens of metal work, are also relics 
 of S. Etienne. 
 
 The beautiful south fagade bears, with its date 1257, 
 the name of the only known architect of Notre Dame 
 ■ — Jean de Chelles. The portal of the north transept 
 is devoted to the history of the Virgin, and bears 
 a beautiful statue of her, with the mantle fastened 
 , under the right arm. The reliefs give the history of the 
 
NOTRE DAME 301 
 
 Virgin. The statuettes of angels are very charming.' Be- 
 neath the third window, belonging to a choir chapel beyond 
 this portal, is the graceful Porte Rouge, a chef-d'oeuvre 
 early XIV. c, which has a representation of the Coronation 
 of the Virgin in its tympanum and scenes from the life of 
 S. Marcel in its vaulting. It takes its name from its doors 
 having been originally painted red. Its statues represent 
 S. Louis and Marguerite de Provence. 
 
 ' La petite Porte-Rouge atteint presque les limites des delicatesses 
 gothiques du quinzi^me si^cle.' — Victor Hugo. 
 
 The cathedral spire is a recent ' restoration ' by Viollet- 
 le-Duc. 
 
 High mass on Sundays is at 9.30 a.m. ; Vespers, followed by 
 Benediction, at 2.30 p.m. On Fridays in Lent the great rehc, the 
 Crown of Thorns, is exhibited after 2 P.M. in the choir. 
 
 On entering the church from the sunlit square the ex- 
 treme darkness is at first almost oppressive, then infinitely 
 imposing. The chief light comes from above, from the 
 windows of the clerestory, which, in the choir, are filled with 
 gorgeous stained glass. The five aisles, with their many 
 pillars, afford most picturesque cross views. In the choir 
 Henry VI. of England (1431), when only ten years old, was 
 crowned king of France. The whole church, now so bare 
 of historic memorials, was formerly paved with sepulchral 
 stones. The monuments included : Philippe, archdeacon of 
 Paris, son of Louis VL, 1161 ; Prince Geoffrey of England, 
 1 1 86; Queen Isabelle of Hainault, 11 89; Louis de France, 
 dauphin, son of Charles VI., 1415 ; Louise de Savoie, 
 mother of Frangois I. (her heart), 1531 ; Louis XIII. (his 
 
 ' Lubke, 
 
302 
 
 PARIS 
 
 entrails), 1643: Eudes de Sully, Bishop of Paris, 1208; 
 Bishop Etienne II., dit Templier, 1279 ; Cardinal Aymeric 
 de Magnac, 1384; Bishop Pierre d'Orgemont, 1409; Denis 
 Dumoulin, Patriarch of Antioch, 1447 : Archbishop Pierre 
 de Marca, 1662 ; Archbishop Hardouin de Pdr^fixe, 1671 ; 
 Archbishop Fran9ois de Plarlay, 1695 : and Renaud de 
 Beaune, Archbishop of Sens, 16 16. 
 
 ' Cette vaste eglise, quU'enveloppait de toutes parts, ^tait elle-menie 
 un souverain calniant. Les lignes solennelles de cette architecture, les 
 pens^es pieuses et sereines qui se d^gageaient, pour ainsi dire, de tous 
 les pores de cette pierre, agissaient sur elle k son insu. L'edifice avait 
 aussi des bruits d'une telle benediction et dHine telle majesty qu'ils 
 assoupissaient cette ame malade. Le chant monotone des officiants, 
 les riponses du peuple aux prStres, quelquefois inarticul^es, quelquefois 
 tonnantes, I'harmonieux tressaillement des vitraux, I'orgue eclatant 
 comine cent trompettes, les trois clochers bourdonnant comnie des 
 niches de grosses abeilles, tout cet orchestra sur lequel bondissait une 
 gamme gigantesque montant et descendant sans cesse d'une foule i. un 
 clocher, as^ourdissaient sa memoire, son imagination, sa douleur. Les 
 cloches surtout la ber9aient. C'etait comme lin magnetisme puissant 
 que ces vastes appareils repandaient sur elle . a larges flots. ' — Victor 
 Hugo, ' Notre Dame de Paris, ' 
 
 The form of the church is a Latin cross. The central 
 aisle is of great width,' and, besides the chapels, there are 
 
 ^ The length of Notre Dame is 390 feet ; width at transepts, 144 feet ; height of 
 vaulting, loz feet ; height of west towers, 204 feet ; width of west front, 128 feet ; 
 length of nave, 225 feet ; width of nave, 39 feet. 
 
 An engraved copper tablet hung against one of the pillars formerly gave the 
 dimensions of the church — 
 
 Si tu veux s^avoir comme est ample, 
 
 De Nostre-Dame le grand temple, 
 
 II y a, dans ceuvre, pour le seur, 
 
 Dix et sept toises de hauteur, 
 
 Sur la largeur de vingt-quatre, 
 
 Et soixante-cinq sans rebattre, 
 
 A de long aux tours haut mont^es 
 
 Trente-quatre sont complies ; 
 
 Le tout fond^ sur pilotis, 
 
 Aussi vrai que je te le dis. 
 
 De Breul^ ' Antiquu^s de Paris.' 
 
NOTRE DAME 303 
 
 double side-aisles, above which run the immense galleries of 
 the triforium, united at the transept walls by very narrow 
 passages. The choir retains some of its wood carving, 
 executed under Louis XIII., from designs of Jean de 
 Goulon. The group called Le Vxu de Louis XIII., consists 
 of a Descent from the Cross by Nicolas Coustou. The kneel- 
 ing figure of Louis XIII. is by Guillaume Coustou, that of 
 Louis XIV. by Antoine Coysevox. The tapestries hung up 
 on festivals were given by Napoleon I. The dead Christ in 
 gilt copper comes from the chapel of the Louvois in the 
 Capucines of the Place Ve.ndome. Enclosing the west 
 end of the choir is part of the curious XIV. c. screen, 
 sculptured by Jean Ravy — a remnant of that destroyed under 
 Louis XIV. 
 
 ' The earlier series on the north contains a crowded representation 
 of the History of Christ, in an iinbroken line from the Annunciation 
 to the Prayer in Gethsemane. These representations are vividly 
 conceived, and the style in which they are executed breathes the 
 spirit of the XIII. c. Perhaps they belong to the end of that 
 period or the beginning of the XIV. c. The reliefs on the south 
 side are different in many points. They continue the History of 
 Christ, and, indeed, the whole was so arranged that the cycle which 
 began at the east passed along the north side to the west end of the 
 choir, and was continued on the lectern, where the Passion, Crucifixion 
 and Resurrection were depicted in front of the congregation, con- 
 cluding at the south side in a scene moving from west to east. Of the 
 later scenes, the only ones now in existence are those which extend 
 from the meeting of Christ as the Gardener with Mary Magdalen, to 
 the farewell to the Disciples after the Resurrection. The artist of these 
 later scenes left his name, in an inscription that has now also disap- 
 peared, as Jehan Ravy, who for twenty-six years conducted the build- 
 ing of Notre Dame, at the end of which time it was completed under 
 his nephew. Master Jehan le Bouteiller, in 1351. Master Ravy 
 evidently thought that he could improve upon his predecessor's work 
 on the north side ; for while the latter had formed the scenes into one 
 
304 PARIS 
 
 unbroken series, he divided into separate compartments by arcades, so 
 that the later representations, which are still in existence, are separated 
 from each other by small columns. '— Liihke. 
 
 The chapels have been decorated in fresco, at great ex- 
 pense, under Viollet-le-Duc, rather to the destruction, most 
 will consider, of the general harmony of the building. We 
 may notice in the choir chapels, beginning on the right (the 
 south) — 
 
 Chapelle S. Denis. Statue of Archbishop Affre, by Auguste de 
 Bay. The Archbishop is represented at the moment when, ap- 
 pearing with an olive branch on the barricade of the Faubourg 
 S. Antoine, he was struck by a ball, June 25, 1848. 
 
 Chapelle S. Madeleine. Kneeling statue of Archbishop Sibour 
 (murdered in S. Etienne du Mont, January 8, 1857), by Dubois. 
 Grave of the papal nuncio Garibaldi, Archbishop of Myra, 
 
 1853- 
 
 Chapelle S. Guillaume. Statue of the Virgin and Child, attributed 
 to Bernini. Mausoleum of General Henri-Charles d'Harcourt, 
 1769, by Pigalle— a singular work of dramatic sculpture. 
 
 Chapelle Si. Georges. Statue of Archbishop Darboy (uiurdered by 
 the Communists in the prison of la Roquette, May 27, 1871), by 
 BonnassLeux. Kneeling statue of Archbishop Morlot, 1862, by 
 Lescorne. 
 
 La Chapelle de Notre Dame des Sept Douleurs (north of choir) con- 
 tains a restored fresco (of XIV. c. ) of the Virgin and Child throned, 
 with S. Denis on the right, and Bishop Simon Matiffas de Buci, 
 who built the first three chapels on the left of the apse, as was 
 told on his monument, and whose tomb was originally beneath it. 
 
 Chapelle S. Marcel. Immense tomb of Cardinal de Eelloy, 1808, 
 by Pierre Deseine. Tomb, with reclining figure, of Arch- 
 bishop de Quflen. 
 
 Chapelle S. Louis. Kneeling statue of Archbishop Louis-Antoine 
 de Noailles, 1729, by de Chaume. 
 
 Chapelle S. Germain. Tomb of Archbishop Leclerc de Juign^, 
 1 81 1. A kneeling figure in relief. 
 
 Chapelle S. Ferdinand. Slab tomb, with medallion, of Arch- 
 bishop de Beaumont, 1781. 
 
NOTRE DAME 305 
 
 ChapelU S. Martin. Tomb {restored by Viollet-le-Duc) of Jean 
 Baptists de Vardes, Comte de Gu^briant, Marshal of France, 
 1643, and his wife Renee du Bec-Crespin, who was sent as 
 ambassadress extraordinary to Poland, and died 1659. 
 
 Behind the sanctuary, moved from its rightful place, is the tomb, 
 with an interesting jewelled ef&gy, of Archbishop Matiffas de 
 Buci, 1304. 
 
 Against a pillar at the entrance of the choir on left is a statue of 
 S. Denis, by Nicolas Coustou. Against: the corresponding pillar 
 on the right is a XIV. c. statue of the Virgin and Child. 
 
 * Apr^s la bataille de Poitiers, les bourgeois de Paris, pour faire 
 cesser les maux qui afffigeaient la France, firent voeu d'offrir tous les 
 ans k Notre Dame un cierge de la longueur de la ville. Le 14 aofit 
 1437, le prevot des marchands et des echevins presenterent, pour la 
 premiere fois, cette offrande au chapitre. Quand Paris se fut aug- 
 nienti et qu'il devint difficile de trouver un cierge de telle dimension, 
 on changea le cierge en une lampe d'argent qui devait rester toujours 
 allum^e et que rran9ois Morin apporta en grande pompe i Notre 
 Dame en 1605.' — Paris d travers les dges. 
 
 Among the historic mernorials which perished in the 
 
 Revolution was the equestrian statue of Philippe le Bel, 
 
 clothed in the armour which he wore at Mons-en-Puelle, 
 
 which stood by the last pillar on the right of the nave. 
 
 A gigantic S. Christopher, destroyed by the chapter in 1786, 
 
 was given, in 141 3, by Antoine des Essarts, whose tomb, 
 
 with his armed statue, stood near it. Tastes have changed, 
 
 for a famous traveller of the XVII. c. found S. Christopher 
 
 the only thing worth seeing in the church. 
 
 ' I could see no notable matter in the cathedrall church, saving the 
 statue of S. Christopher on the right hand at the coming in of the 
 great gate, which is indeed very exquisitely done, all the rest being but 
 ordinary. ' — Cory at s ' Crudities, ' 1 6 1 1 . 
 
 The realistic tomb of Canon Jean Etienne Yver (1467) 
 still exists uninjured.' The archbishops have been buried 
 
 ^ Other monuments belonging to Notre Dame which still exist and might he 
 restored (from the Mus^e at Versailles) with great advantage to the interest of the 
 
 X 
 
3o6 PARIS 
 
 since 1711, in a vault under the- choir ; if they are cardinals 
 their hats are hung over their coffins. 
 
 The Treasury of Notre Dame is open from 10 to 4 
 (50 c.) except on Sundays and holidays. It was despoiled 
 at the Revolution, but a few of the most precious objects 
 escaped, and others have since been collected from other 
 churches. It is approached through the east arcade of a 
 little cloister, with stained glass representing the story of S. 
 Genevifeve. The greatest treasures of all, the Crown ot 
 Thorns given to S. Louis and brought hither from the Sainte 
 Chapelle, and the nail of the True Cross which belonged to 
 the abbey of S. Denis, are only exposed on Fridays in Lent. 
 
 The other treasures include the gold XII. c. cross of the 
 Emperor Manuel Comnenus, bequeathed by Anne de 
 Gonzague to S. Germain des Pr^s in 1683 ; the relic of the 
 True Cross sent to Galon, bishop of Paris, in 1109 ; the cross, 
 in wood and copper, of Bishop Eudes de Sully ; the dis- 
 cipline of S. Louis ; the crucifix which S. Vincent de Paul 
 held over Louis XIII. when he was dying ; the coronation 
 mantle of Napoleon I. and the chasuble which Pius VII. 
 wore at the coronation ; chasubles embroidered in XV. c. 
 and XVI. c. ; the pastoral cross of Archbishop Affre ; 
 the dress worn by Archbishops Affre, Sibour, and 
 Darboy in their last moments, with the marks left by 
 the instruments of their death ; the magnificent silver 
 image of the Virgin and Child given by Charles X. (1821). 
 The ostensoir given by Napoleon I., and many magnificent 
 church vestments and services of church plate presented 
 by Napoleon I. and III. on occasion of marriages, baptisms, 
 
 church, are tlsose of Jean Jouvenel des Ursms(i43i) and his wife, Michelle de Vitry ; 
 and of Mar^chal Albert de Gondi, Due de Retz (160:2) and his brother Pierre de 
 Gondi, Bishop of Paris (1616). 
 
NOTRE DAME 307 
 
 &c. On the walls of the treasury are ' full-length portraits 
 of Archbishops de Qudlen and Sibour. 
 
 The Chapter House, with the throne where the arch- 
 bishop presides every month at a council, contains a portrait 
 of Archbishop Affre and a picture of his death upon the 
 barricade of the Faubourg S. Antoine. An armoire adorned 
 with paintings of the life of S. Louis, contains a precious re- 
 liquary of S. Louis ; other reliquaries of XIII. c, and XIV. c. ; 
 reliquaries of XV. c, supporting busts of S. Louis and S. 
 Denis ; and a massive ostensoir given by Napoleon I., who 
 also presented the great paschal candlestii'.k of the church. 
 
 The most magnificent scene ever witnessed in Notre 
 Dame was the coronation of Napoleon I. and Josephine, 
 at an expense of eighty-five million francs. 
 
 ' Quelle est I'ame qui peut avoir mis un pareil jour en oubli ? J'ai 
 vu depuis Notre-Dame, je I'ai vue dans les fetes somptueuses et 
 solennelles, mais jamais le coup d'oeil du couronnement de Napoleon 
 m'a ete meme rappele. Cette voute aux arceaux gothiques, aux vitraux 
 lumineux, qui retentissait du chant sacre des pretres, appelant les 
 benedictions du Tris-Haut sur la ceremonie qui allait 6tre celdbree, en 
 attendant le vicaire de J^sus-Christ, dont le tr6ne ^tait prepare pr^s de 
 I'autel ; tandis que le long de ses vieilles inurailles, recouvertes de 
 tapisseries magnifiques, on voyait ranges par ordre tous les corps 
 de I'Etat, les deputes de toutes les villes, la France entiJre, enfin, 
 qui, representee par ses mandataires, envoyait son vceu attirer la 
 benediction du del sur celui qu'elle couronnait. Ces milliers de 
 plumes flottantes qui ombrageaient les chapeaux des senateurs, 
 des conseillers d'Etat, des tribuns, ces cours de judicature avec leur 
 costume riche et severe k la fois, et ces uniformes brillants d'or, puis ce 
 clerg6 dans toute sa pompe, tandis que, dans les travees de I'etage 
 superieur de la nef et du choeur, des femmes jeunes, belles, ^tincellantes 
 de pierreries et vetues en m8me temps avec cette (51(^gance qui n'appar- 
 tient qu'k nous, formaient une guirlande ravissante au coup d'oeil. 
 
 ' Le pape arriva le premier. Au moment ou U entra dans la basilique, 
 le clergd entonna Tu es Petrus, etc. ; et ce chant grave et religieux fit 
 une profonde impression Sur les assistants. Pie VII. avan9ait du fond 
 
 X 2 
 
3o8 PARIS 
 
 de cette ^gUse, avec un air i la fois majestueux et humble. On voyait 
 qu'il etait notre souverain, mais que dans son coeur il se reconnaissait 
 I'humble sujet de celui dont le trdne ^tait une croix. ■ 
 
 ' L'instant qui r^unit peut-etre le plus de regards sur les marches 
 de I'autel, fut celui oil Josephine refut de I'empereur la couronne et fut 
 sacree solennellement imp^ratrice des Franjais. Lorsqu'il fut temps 
 pour elle de paraitre activement dans le grand drame, I'imp^ratrice 
 descendit du trone et s'avanja vers I'autel, oil I'attendait I'empereur, 
 suivie de ses dames du palais et de tout son service d'honneur, et ayant 
 son manteau porte par la princesse Caroline, la princesse Julie, la princesse 
 Elisa et la princesse Louis. J'ai eu I'honneur d'etre presentee a beaucoup 
 de vraies princesses, comme on le disait dans le faubourg S. Germain, et je 
 dois dire, en toute verity de conscience, que jamais je n'en ai vu qui 
 m'imposassent davantage que Josephine. C'etait de I'^l^gance et de la 
 majeste ; aussi, une fois qu'elle avait apris elle son manteau de cour, 
 il ne fallait plus chercher la femme du monde peu arret^e dans ses 
 vouloirs, elle dtait convenable de tous points, et jamais reine ne sut 
 mieux trSner sans I'avoir appris. 
 
 ' Je vis tout ce que je viens de dire dans les yeux de Napoleon, II 
 jouissait en regardant I'imperatrice s'avancer vers lui ; et lorsqu'elle 
 s'agenouilla, . . . lorsque les larmes, qu'elle ne pouvait retenir, roul- 
 erent sur ses mains jointes qu'elle elevait bien plus vers lui que vers 
 Dieu, dans ce moment oil Napoleon, ou plutot Bonaparte, etait pour 
 elle sa veritable providence, alors il y eut entre ces deux ^tres une de 
 ces minutes fugitives, uniques dans toute une vie, et qui comblent le 
 vide de bien des aunees. L'empereur mit Une gr^ce parfaite k la 
 moindre des actions qu'il devait faire pour accomplir la c^r^monie. 
 Mais ce fut surtout lorsqu'il s'agit de couronner I'imperatrice. Cette 
 action devait etre accompli par I'empereur, qui, apr^s avoir reju la 
 petite couronne ferm^e et surmontee de la croix, qu'il fallait placer sur 
 la t^te de Josephine, devait la poser sur sa propre tSte, puis la mettre 
 sur celle de I'imperatrice. 11 mit k ces deux mouvements une lenteur 
 gracieuse qui ^tait remarquable. Mais lorsqu'il en fut au moment de 
 couronner enfin celle qui ^tait pour lui, selon un prejug^, son itoile 
 heureuse, il fut coquet pour elle, si je puis dire le mot. II arrangeait 
 cette petite couronne qui surmontait le diad^me, en diamant, la plafait, 
 la deplagait, la remettait encore, il semblait qu'il voulut lui promettre 
 que cette couronne lui serait douce et 16g^re ! ' — Mimaires de la 
 JDuchesse d'Abrantis. 
 
 In later times, the most magnificent ceremonials at 
 
TOWERS OF NOTRE DAME 
 
 309 
 
 Notre Dame have been the marriage of Napoleon III. to 
 the Comtesse Eugdnie de Teba, January 29, 1853, and the 
 baptism of the Prince Imperial. 
 
 Those miss a great sight who do not ascend the Towers 
 
 STAIRCASE AT NOTRE DAME. 
 
 of Notre Dame. The entrance (40 c.) is on the north side 
 of the north tower, left of portal. The staircase is easy. On 
 the first landing is a large chamber, containing the admirable 
 little spiral staircase (giving access to the roofs) of which we 
 give an illustration. A gallery, with a glorious view runs 
 
310 
 
 PARIS 
 
 round the final base of the towers and across the west 
 fagade. It is worth while to have accomplished the ascent 
 if only to make the acquaintance 6i the extraordinary 
 population of strange beasts and birds which guard the 
 parapet. Two hundred and ninety-seven steps have to be 
 
 L£S CHIM^KES DE NOTRE DAME. 
 
 mounted before reaching the summit of the south tower, 
 223 feet in height. 
 
 ' C'est un magnifique et channant spectacle que Paris, vu du haut 
 des tours de Notre Dame aux fraiches lueurs d'une aube d'^te. On 
 pouvait etre, ce jour-lk, en jnillet. Le ciel etait parfaitement serein. 
 Quelques ^toiles attard^es s'y eteignaient sur divers points, et il y en 
 avait une tr^s-brillante au levant dans le plus clair du ciel. Le soleil 
 etait au moment de paraitre. Paris commenyait i remuer. Une lumi^re 
 tr^s-blanche et tres-pure faisalt saillir vivementa I'ceil tous les plans que 
 ses mille maisons pr&entent i I'orient. L'ombre geante des clochers 
 
NOTRE DAME 311 
 
 allait de toit en toit d'un bout de la grande ville i I'autre. II y avait 
 deja des quartiers qui parlaient et qui faisaient du bruit. Ici un coup 
 de cloche, li un coup de marteau, la-bas le cliquetis compliqu^ d'une 
 charrette en marche. Deji quelques fumees se degorgeaient 9^ et Ik 
 snr toute cette surface de toils comme par les fissures d'une immense 
 sulfatare. La riviere, qui fronce son eau aux arches de tant de ponts, 
 a la pointe de tant d'Sles, itait moiree de plis d'argent. Autour de la 
 ville, au dehors des remparts, la vue se perdait dans un grand cercle de 
 vapeurs flaconneuses a travers lesquelles on distinguait confusement la 
 ligne indefinie des plaines, et le gracieux renflement des coteaux. 
 Toutes sortes de rumeurs flottantes se dispersaient sur cette cit^ a demi 
 reveill^e. Vers I'orient le vent du matin chassait k travers le ciel 
 quelques blanches ouates arrachees a la toison de brume des coUines.' 
 Victor Hugo, ' Noire Dame de Paris. ' 
 
 In the south tower is the great bell, 'le bourdon de 
 Notre Dame,' which has announced all the great French 
 victories. The famous 'Jacqueline,' given in 1400, was 
 named after Jacqueline de la Grange, wife of its donor, 
 Jean de Montaigu (brother of Bishop Gerard), beheaded at 
 the Halles in 1409 ; but when recast, in 1686, the bell was 
 called ' Emmanuel Louise Thdrfese,' in honour of Louis XIV. 
 and his queen. A smaller bell shown here was brought 
 from Sebastopol, and is of Russian workmanship. 
 
 Notre Dame has always been celebrated for its preachers. 
 Many of the finest orations of Bossuet and Bourdaloue were 
 delivered here. Latterly the religious feelings of the middle 
 ages have seemed to be awakened at Notre Dame, when twelve 
 thousand persons have listened at once to the preaching of 
 the Dominican Lacordaire, grand and majestic, but free from 
 all mannerism and affectation, full of sympathy, telling of sal- 
 vation not damnation ; when the Carmelite Pfere Hyacinthe 
 has drawn an immense audience, though rather appealing 
 to the moral and intellectual than the religious feelings ; or 
 when as many as eight thousand have been led to a general 
 
312 PARIS 
 
 communion by the fiery words of the Jesuit Pfere de 
 Ravignan. 
 
 Nothing remains now of the episcopal palace, sacked 
 February 14, 1831, when, under Monseigneur de Qu61en, its 
 Ubrary of twenty thousand volumes was destroyed, without the 
 slightest interference from the government of Louis Philippe, 
 who remained utterly impassive to the scenes which were 
 going on. 
 
 ' L'^difice, envahi par une foule innombrable et furieuse, nVtait 
 plus qu'une ruine au bout de quelques instants. Tout k la fois on 
 d^racinait les grilles et les rampes des escaliers, on sapait les murs, on 
 crevait la toiture, on precipitait par les fenetresj les marbres, les 
 boiseries, les glaces et le mobilier des appartements. Une troupe de 
 barbares faisait la chaine depuis la bibliotheque du palais jusqu'au 
 parapet du quai ; les livres et les manuscrits precieux passait de main 
 en main ; chacun les lacerait i son tour, et les derniers les lanpait dans 
 la riviere. Tout cela s'accomplissait au milieu de chants sauvages et 
 de hurlements affreux. Pour comble d'outrage, une troupe avin^e, 
 souillee de fange et couvette d'habits sacerdotaux, formait autour de 
 I'enceinte une grotesque et sacrilege procession. C'est ainsi que les 
 archeveques de Paris furent depouill& de leur antique demeure.' — De 
 Guilhermy, ' Itin. arch, de Paris. ' 
 
 ' Les persecutions et I'assassinat semblent, en nos heures troublees, 
 comme le lot promis d'avance k ceux qui s'asseyent sur le siege menace 
 par tant de haines. Monseigneur de Quelen voit son palais archi^pi- 
 scopal mis k sac ; Monseigneur Affre est frappe mortellement sur une 
 barricade, victime de son h&oique devouement ; Monseigneur Sibour 
 est poignard^ par Verger, et si Monseigneur Marlot s'^teint 
 tranquillement, Monseigneur Darboy tombe sous les balles des 
 federes. ' — Edouard Drumont, ' Paris i travers les dges. ' 
 
 It was in this ArchevecM that the National Assembly held 
 its first meeting in Paris, after the rempval from Versailles. 
 The Sacristy now occupies the site of the palace. The 
 archbishop's garden occupied the site of the hillock known, 
 in early times, as La Motte aux Papelards, a name not in- 
 appropriate during the dissolute life of Archbishop Harlay. 
 
LA MORGUE 313 
 
 Behind the cathedral is the Flace Notre Dame, with a 
 gothic fountain of 1843. Here, at the end of the garden, 
 shuddering figures are always pressing against the windows 
 of a low one-storied building. It is the Morgue, where 
 bodies found in the river or streets are exposed for recogni- 
 tion during three days. The name Morgue coraes from 
 the old French word for visage. Formerly at the entrance 
 of all the prisons was a chamber called the Morgue, where, 
 on their arrival, prisoners were detained for some minutes, 
 that their physiognomies might be well studied for after- 
 recognition. The bodies are seen through a glass screen, 
 and are kept constantly watered to impede decomposition. 
 The clothes in which the bodies are found are removed, 
 which is perhaps a reason why mistakes are frequently made, 
 and people meet alive and well the relations whom they have 
 mourned and buried, after recognising them at the Morgue. 
 More than 300 is the average of bodies annually exposed 
 here. Nothing can be more appalling than the interior of 
 the Morgue, where death is seen in its utmost horror. 
 
 ' La populace est avide de cet affreux spectacle ; c'est bien le plus 
 r^voltant que I'imagination puisse representer. ' — Tableau de Paris, 
 1782. 
 
 ' La Morgue est la chapelle ardente de I'infortune et du crime. . . . 
 II y a des jours de I'ann^e ou la Morgue est beaucoup trop etroite : le 
 lendemain d'une emeute, le lendemain du Mardi-Gras, le lendemain 
 d'une fetenationale.' — Noiier, Rignier et Champin, ' Paris hisforique.' 
 
 ' La Morgue est un spectacle k la portee de toutes les bourses, que 
 se payent gratuitement les passants pauvres ou riches. La porte est 
 ouverte, entre qui veut. II y a des amateurs qui font un detour pour ne 
 pas manquer une de ces representations de la inort. Lorsque les dalles 
 sont nues, les gens sortent desappointes, voles, murmurant entre leurs 
 dents. Lorsque les dalles sont bien garnies, lorsqu'il y a un bel eralage 
 de chair humaine, les visiteurs se pressent, se donnent des emotions a 
 bonmarche, s'epouvantent, plaisantent, applaudissent ousifflent, comme 
 
314 PAJ?TS 
 
 au thd^tre, et se retirent satisfaits, en declarant que la Morgue est 
 reussie, ce jour- la.' — Zola, ' Thirise Raqtnn.' 
 
 Nothing remains now of Le Clottre Notre Dame, 6'n the 
 northern side of the church, with its thirty-seven canonical 
 houses and its famous episcopal schools, in which S. Anselm 
 defeated Roscelin and S. Bernard combated Abdlard. Here 
 was the earliest public hbrary in France, sold in thelast century. 
 The cloister was commemorated in the names of the Ruedu 
 Cloitre Notre Dame, the Rue des Chanoinesses, and Rue 
 des Chantres, the last of the ancient streets of the quarter. 
 At the corner of the latter street and the Quai aux Fleurs 
 (formerly Napoldon), looking on the ancient Port S. Landry, 
 H^loise lived with her uncle, the Canon Fulbert. On a 
 house here (now rebuilt) was inscribed — 
 
 Abeilard, Helolse, habiterent ces lieux, 
 
 Des sinceres amans modeles precieux. 1 1 1 8. ' 
 
 In No. 7 of the destroyed Rue du Cloitre, Racine and 
 Boileau both lived for a time. A fragment of the Rue 
 des Ursins still commemorates the famous hotel of that 
 name. At the entrance of the Rue du Cloitre was the 
 church of S. Jean le Rond (destroyed 1748), which served 
 as the Baptistery of the Cathedral. It was on the steps of S. 
 Jean le Rond that the celebrated mathematician D'Alembert 
 was exposed as an infant by his unnatural mother, the 
 chanoinesse Tencin, and was picked up by the poor glazier's 
 wife, who brought him up, and whom he ever after regarded 
 as his true mother, though his own tried to reclaim him 
 Avhen he became famous. 
 
 On the second floor of the last house of the Quai de 
 I'Horloge, Jeanne Marie Phlipon, afterwards the famous 
 
niSLE S. LOUIS 31S 
 
 Mme Roland, was born, and she has described how she lived 
 on the ' pleasant quays ' as a girl with her grandmother, 
 and was accustomed to ' take the air by the winding course 
 of the river,' with her aunt Angelica. 
 
 In the Rue Chanoinesse it is said that the epistles of 
 Pliny, afterwards published by Aldus, were found by the 
 monk Joconde. 
 
 The Isle S. Louis, which belonged to the chapter of 
 Paris, remained uninhabited till the XVII. c. It has still 
 much the character which we find given to it in descriptions 
 of the last century. 
 
 * C'est un quartier qui semble avoir echapp6 a la gfande corruption 
 de la ville ; elle n'y a point encore p^netre. Les bourgeois se surveil- 
 lent : les moeurs des particuliers y sont connues ; toute fiUe qui 
 commet une faute, devient I'objet de la censure, et ne se mariera jamais 
 dans le quartier. Rien ne represente mieux une ville en province du 
 troisieme ordre, que le quartier de I'lsle. On a fort bieu dit— 
 
 ' " L'habitant du Marais est etranger dans I'lsle." ' 
 
 Tableau de Paris, 1 782. 
 
 From the entrance of the Isle S, Louis, Notre Dame 
 looks especially grand — 
 
 ' Vue du chevet, colossale et accroupie entre ses arcs-boutants, 
 pareils a des pattes au repos, dominie par la double t^te de tours, 
 au-dessus de sa longue echine de monstre.' — ZHa, '■ L'CEuvre.' 
 
 The Church of S. Louis en I'lsle, with a perforated stone 
 spire, only dates from 1679-1721. It contains some pictures 
 by Mignard and Lemoine. 
 
 At the end of the long quiet street of S. I.ouis en I'lsle, 
 is (on the left) a garden, shading the front of the Hotel 
 Lambert, magnificently restored by the Czartoriski family. 
 This hotel was built, in the middle pf the XVII. c, by 
 Levau, for the President Lambert de Thorigny, and all the 
 
3i6 PARIS 
 
 great artists of the time — Lebrun, Lesueur, Francois Pdrier, 
 and the Flemish sculptor Van Obtal — were employed in its 
 decorations. ' C'est un hotel bati par un des plus grands 
 architectes de France, et peint par Lebrun et Lesueur. 
 C'est une maison faite pour un souverain qui serait philo- 
 sophe,' wrote Voltaire to Frederic the Great. The Galerie 
 de Lebrun retains all the decorations by that great artist ; the 
 ceiling represents the Marriage of Hercules and Hebe. 
 Only a few paintings in grisaille remain from the hand of 
 Lesueur, all his larger works having bteen taken hence to 
 the Louvre. Voltaire was living here, with Mme du 
 Chatelet, his ' Emilie,' ^ when he planned his Henriade, 
 having as his chamber the room where Lesueur painted the 
 Apollo and the Muses, now in the Louvre. After Mme du 
 Chitelet, the financiers Dupin and Delahaye resided here ; 
 then, under the empire, M. de Montalivet, with whom 
 Napoleon held here the conference, in 1815, in which his 
 cause was decided to be hopeless. 
 
 No. 29 Quai de Bourbon is a fine old XVII. c hotel. 
 At No. 17 Quai d'Anjou is the handsome Hotel Fimodan or 
 de Lauzun of the XVII. c. At the point of the island is the 
 site once occupied by the Hotel Bretortvilliers. 
 
 The Pont de la Tournelk and the quay of the same name 
 commemorate the tour or tournelle which joined the Porte 
 S. Bernard, the first gate in the walls of Philippe Auguste. 
 Hence a long chain joined to a tower on the Isle Notre 
 Dame, could defend, when required, the passage of the 
 river. 
 
 It was on the Isle S. Louis that the famous combat 
 took place, in the presence of Charles V. and his Court, 
 between the dog of Montereau and the Chevalier Macaire, 
 
niSLE S. LOUIS 317 
 
 whom the dog had insisted on recognising as the murderer 
 of his master, Aubin de Montdidier, and attacking wherever 
 he met him. 
 
 ' Le champ-clos fut marqu^ dans I'IsIe, qui n'etoit alors qu'un 
 terrain vague et inhabit^. Macaire ^toit arme d'un gros baton ; le chien 
 avoit un tonneau perce pour sa retraite et ses relancements. On le 
 lache ; aussitot il court, tourne autour de son adversaire, evite ses 
 coups, le menace tantSt d'un c6t^, tantot d'un autre, le fatigue, et enfin 
 s'elance, le saisit a la gorge, le renverse, et I'oblige de faire I'aveu de 
 son crime, en presence du roi et de toute sa cour. ' — Saint-Foix, ' Essais 
 hist, sur Paris. ' 
 
3i8 PARIS 
 
 T 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 CHIEFLY IN THE FAUBOURG S. MARCEL. 
 
 HE Faubourg takes its name from the old collegiate 
 church of S. Marcel, destroyed in the Revolution. 
 
 ' Le peuple est, dans ce faubourg, plus mechant, plus inflammable, 
 plus querelleur, et plus dispose k la mutinerie, que dans les autres 
 quartiers. La police craint de pousser a bout cette populace ; on la 
 menage, parce qu'elle est capable de se porter aux plus grands cxces.' 
 Tableau de Paris, 1 782. 
 
 From the eastern point of the Isle S. Louis the Pont de 
 la Tournelle leads to the south bank of the Seine, where, on 
 the Quai de la Tournelle (right), is the Hdtel Pimodan or 
 Nesmond of the age of Henri IV. It was built by Mme 
 de Nesmond, daughter of Mme de Miramion, who esta- 
 blished on the same quay a nunnery, which gave it the 
 name of Quai des Miramionnes. 
 
 A little to the left is the vast Halle aux Vins, and be- 
 yond it, is the Jardin des Plantes (open daily from 1 1 to 7 in 
 summer, 1 1 to 5 in winter), the charming Botanical Garden 
 of Paris, founded by Richelieu at the instigation of Labrosse, 
 physician to Louis XIII. — especially attractive to botanists 
 from its unrivalled collections of wild and herbaceous plants. 
 The peonies, in May and June, are especially magnificent. 
 
JARDIN DES PL ANTES 319 
 
 There are many shady and delightful walks, in some of 
 which Boileau composed the verses ' which end in the 
 famous lines — 
 
 ' Mon coeur, vous soupirez au nom de I'infidele, 
 Avez-vous oubU6 que vous ne I'aimez plus ? ' 
 
 ' Ces promenades solitaires avaient toujours un grand charme pour 
 Bonaparte ; il avail alors plus d'aliandon, de confiance, et se sentait 
 lui-meme plus rapproche de la dlvinite, dont im viritdbk ami, disait-il, 
 est lafidile image. ' — Mimoires de la Duchesse d'Abraiitis. 
 
 The Natural ■ History Collections, which occupy the west 
 portion of the gardens, are open from 1 to 4, the gallery of 
 savage beasts being open on Thursdays only, when they are 
 not to be seen outside. 
 
 During the siege of Paris in 1870, the elephants and 
 most of the larger animals were sold and eaten up. Two 
 elephants sold to butchers fetched 27,000 francs, two camels 
 4,000 francs ; but it was not only in the beasts of its mena- 
 gerie that the Jardin contributed to the public sustenance. 
 
 ' Les rats ont, \ Paris, certains endroits de predilection. Un de 
 leurs paradis favoris c'est le Jardin des Plantes, ou ils disputent aux 
 animaux rares oil aux volatiles la nourriture administrative. Le s^jour 
 du Jardin des Plantes leur fat tres-funeste i cette epoque, car les em- 
 ployes du Museum en firent des hecatombes et les mang^rent. — D'JSi- 
 tisson. 
 
 Behind the Jardin des Plantes is the Hospice de la Pitie, 
 now annexed to the Hotel Dieu, originally -founded by 
 Louis XIII., 1612. In the Rue du Puits I'Hermite is the 
 Prison of S. Pelagie, notorious from the horrors of the great 
 Revolution, and celebrated as the place where Josephine de 
 la Pagerie, the future empress, was imprisoned and inscribed 
 
 ^ Fournier, Pan's di^zoli. 
 
320 PARIS 
 
 her name on the wall of her cell, and where Mme Roland 
 wrote her Memoirs. 
 
 'Je ne me suls jamais endormie k Sainte-Pflagie sans y avoir et^ 
 reveillee en sursaut. J'ai vecu de pain noir et d'eau trouble pendant 
 six jours, et j'ai manque de linge pendant plus d'un mois. Mais ce qui 
 m'afait plus souffrir a Sainte-Pelagie, c'dtait la necessity de m'y trouver 
 en contact avec une horrible couverture . . .' — Souvenirs de Mme de 
 Creqttu 
 
 To the east of the Jardin des Plantes the Boulevard de 
 THopital leads to L'Hospice de la Salpitriere, built as an 
 arsenal by Louis XIII., and used as a hospice for old men 
 and women. The church — a Greek cross with an altar in 
 the centre under an octagonal dome — dates from 1670. 
 
 On the right of the Boulevard de I'Hopital, where the 
 Boulevard S. Marcel branches off westwards, is the Marche 
 aux Chevaux, moved hither from the site of the Hotel des 
 Tournelles. Here Rosa Bonheur has studied. 
 
 (The Boulevard de I'Hopital leads into the wide and 
 handsome Boulevard d'ltalie, which forms a pleasant drive, 
 with fine views over the south of Paris.) 
 
 Following the Boulevard S. Marcel for some distance, 
 we find on the right the Rue Scipion. Here a house, at the 
 corner of the Rue Fer-d,- Moulin, has a court decorated with 
 fine terra-cotta medallions. These, and the name attached 
 to the street, are all that remain of the hotel built by the 
 rich Scipion Sardini under Henri III. 
 
 The Boulevard S. Marcel leads to (left) the Avenue des 
 Gotelins, on the right of which is the Manufacture Generals 
 des Gobelins, open to the public on Wednesdays and Satur- 
 days from 12 to 3. The work existed in France long before 
 the time of Gilles Gobelin, who lived in the middle of the 
 XV. c. ; but he acquired a fortune by the manufacture, in 
 
LES GOBELINS 321 
 
 the art of which he instructed all the members of his own 
 family, and henceforth his name was connected with it. It 
 was long supposed that the waters of the little stream Bifevre, 
 which flows by the establishment, had peculiar properties 
 for the use of dyeing ; but the stream is now so adulterated 
 that Seine water is used instead. The establishment com- 
 prises a school, and ateliers for the three branches of the art 
 — the dyeing, the tapestry, and the carpet manufacture called 
 Savonnerie, from the house at Chaillot, to which this part of 
 the industry was at one time removed. Much of the old 
 tapestry preserved here was destroyed by the Communists in 
 1871. The best remaining pieces are of the time of Louis 
 XIV. with two of Louis XIIL, and are taken from the works 
 of eminent French painters — Poussin, Vouet, Lebrun, Mi- 
 gnard, Lefebre, Rigaud, Coypel, Oudry, Boucher, &c. There 
 are a few pieces of _ Flemish and Florentine tapestry, chiefly 
 of XVII. c. Apiece executed at Bourges in 1 501 repre- 
 sents Louis XL raising the siege of Dole and Salins. 
 
 An average of six inches square is the daily task of a 
 skilled workman : so that the execution of the larger pieces 
 occupies many years. 
 
 ' Des Gobelins I'aiguille et la teipture 
 Dans ces tapis surpassent la peinture.' 
 
 Voltaire, ' Mondain. ' 
 
 ' Many of the tapestry hangings in the old hfitels of France record 
 family pride and sense of high antiquity. On the hangings of a room in 
 the hotel of the Comte de Croy is represented a scene from the deluge, 
 in which a man pursues Noah, with the words : ' Mon ami, sauvez les 
 papiers des Croys. ' On a tapestry in the chiteau of the present Due 
 de Levis, the Virgin Mary was represented saying to one of the family 
 who stood bare-headed before her : ' Mon cousin, couvrez-vous,' who 
 replies: 'Ma cousine, c'est pour ma commodite.' — Zadji Morgan's 
 ' France. ' 
 
322 PARIS 
 
 Outside the neighbouring Barrifere d'ltalie is the suburb 
 of the Maison Blanche (named from a destroyed house in 
 the Rue S. Hippolyte, supposed to have belonged to Queen 
 Blanche), where General Brda was murdered in June 1848. 
 A little church marks the spot. The Avenue d'ltalie was 
 the scene of the celebrated massacre of the Dominicans of 
 Arceuil under the Commune, 1 87 1. i 
 
 ' On les mena Avenue d'ltalie, No. 38, a la ge&le disciplinaire du 
 secteur. Le 25 mal on les fit soitir. Le premier qui s'avanja fut le 
 pfere Contrault ; il n'avait pas fait trois pas qu'il etait frappe d'une balle ; 
 il leva les bras vers le ciel, dit : Est-il possible ? " et tomba. Le pjre 
 Captier se tourna vers ses compagnons, et d'une voix tr^s-douce, mais 
 tres-ferme : " AUons, mes enfants ! pour le bon Dieu ! " Tous k sa 
 suite s'elanc^rent en courant k travers la fusillade. Ce ne fut pas une 
 boucherie, ce fut une chasse. Le pauvre gibier humain se hitait, se 
 cachait derriere les arbres, se glissait le long des maisons ; aux fen6tres 
 des femmes applaudissaient ; sur les trottoirs, des hommes montraient 
 le poing i ces malheureux ; tout le Blonde riait. Quelques-uns plus 
 alertes, plus favorises du sort que les autres, purent se precipiter dans 
 les rues laterales et echapper k la fusillade. Cinq doniinicains, sept 
 employes de I'ecole furent abattus presque devant la chapelle Br^a.' — 
 Maxime du Camp, 'Les Convulsions de Paris.'' 
 
 Returning down the Avenue des Gobelins, on the right 
 is the Church of S. Medard, founded before the XII. c, but 
 much altered and enlarged in the XVI. c. and XVII. c. It 
 consists at present of a gothic nave with aisles of the XVI. c, 
 and a loftier renaissance choir. Olivier Petru and Pierre 
 Nicole, the theological writers, are buried in this church, 
 which was besieged, December 21, 1561, by 2,000 protest- 
 ants, who wished to avenge themselves on the priests of the 
 church for ringing all their bells to disturb the service in the 
 neighbouring ' temple.' Leboeuf ' narrates that in the XIV. c. 
 
 * Hist, dv dioc. de Paris. 
 
s. m£dard 
 
 333 
 
 or XV. c. a reclusoir or cell was constructed in this church in 
 which a female recluse was shut up for the rest of her days. 
 
 'A charming little picture by Watteau exhibits S. Geneviive keep- 
 ing sheep, and reading a volume of the Scriptures which lies open upon 
 her 'knst.' —Jameson's ' Sacred Art,' 
 
 In the little churchyard adjoining, the bienheureux deacon 
 Paris was buried, at whose grave numbers of enthusiastic 
 
 s. m£dard. 
 
 Jansenists came to pray in 1727, believing that miracles were 
 wrought there, and excited themselves into such religious 
 frenzy, that as many as 800 persons were seen in convulsions 
 together around the tomb.^ The convulsions of S. Mddard 
 soon presented one of the most extraordinary instances of 
 religious delirium ever known. 
 
 ^ Naturalisme des Convulsions^ ii. 
 
324 PARIS 
 
 ' Serablables aux sibylles de I'antiquitd, lorsque le dieu les poss^dait, 
 les filles iprouvaient de violentes agitations, faisaient des mouvements 
 extraordinaires, des sauts, des tours de force ; on les nommait ks 
 sauteuses. Les autres, qui hurlaient, poussaient des cris 6tranges, ou 
 imitaient I'aboiement des cbiens, le miaulement des chats, refurent les 
 qualifications d'aboyeuses ei de tniaulantes. 
 
 ' Ensuite parurent les pretendues gu^risons miraculeuses, les in- 
 firmes, les estropies, les personnes atteintes de maladies de toutes 
 esp^ces, vinrent soUiciter la vertu du bienheureux Paris. Ce fut en 
 septembre 1727 que ce tombeau opera, dit-onj le premier miracle sur 
 un nomm^ Lero. 11 fut suivi de plusieurs autres. 
 
 ' Aux miracles succederent les propheties. Les convulsionnaires, 
 pendant leur crise, laissaient ^chapper des paroles sans suite, que Ton 
 recueillait avec soin, et dont on a forme un volume imprime, intltuU 
 Jiecueil des j>rMict ions intiressantes faites en 1733. Ces pretendus pro- 
 phetes ^taient qualifies de discernans. 
 
 ' Au mois d'aouf 1731, les convulsions, sans perdre de ce qu'elles 
 presentaient d'affligeant et de ridicule, prirent un caractere nouveau, 
 un caractere d'atrocit^ qui ne s'y dtait pas encore fait remarquer. 
 " Dieu changea ses voies," dit un partisan de ces extravagances, il voulut, 
 pour operer la gu^rison des malades, les faire passer par des douleurs tres- 
 vives, et des convulsions extraordinaires et tres-violentes. 
 
 ' Alors conimencirent a Stre mis en usage ce. qu'on appelait, en Ian- 
 gage convulsionnaire, les grands secours, les secours meurtriers ; et la 
 cimetiere de S. Medard fut converti en lieu deSupplice ; les secouristes 
 devinrent des bourreaux, et aux crises d'une maladie reelle ou factice 
 succederent les transports de la rage. 
 
 ' Les jeunes filles convulsionnaires appelaient les coups, les mauvais 
 traitements, et demandaient des supplices comme un bienfait. EUes 
 voulaient etre battues, tortur^es, martyrisees. II semblait que I'exalta- 
 tion du cerveau avail produit une revolution totale dans leur syst^me 
 sensitif : la douleur la plus vive avait pour elles les attraits de la 
 volupt^. 
 
 ' Les secouristes, jeunes gens vigoureux, les firappaient, a grands 
 coups de poings, sur le dos, sur la poitrine, sur les dpaules, au gr^ de leurs 
 patientes. Ces malheureuses invitaient leurs bourreaux a les traiter plus 
 cruellement encore. Les secouristes montaient sur leur corps dtendu, fou- 
 laient aux pieds leurs cuisses, leur ventre, leur sein, et trepignaient sur 
 elles jusqu'a lassitude.' — Dulaure, ' Hist, de Paris sous Louis XV.' 
 
 The government tried in vain to put an end to these 
 
RUE MOUFFETARD 325 
 
 scenes by imprisonment and otlier punisliments. Voltaire 
 did more to stop them by his satire. 
 
 ' Un grand tombeau, sans orneniens, sans art, 
 
 Est flev^ non loin de Saint-M^dard ; 
 
 L'esprit divin, pour ^clairer la France, 
 
 Sous cetle tombe enferme sa puissance. 
 
 L'aveugle y court, et d'un pas chancelant, 
 
 Aux Quinze-Vingts retourne en tatonnant. 
 
 Le boiteux vient, clopinant sur la tombe, 
 
 Crie : Hosanna I saute, gigotte et tombe. 
 
 Le sourde approche, ^coute et n'entend rien. 
 
 Tout aussitot de pauvres gens de bien, 
 
 D'aise pSm^s, vrais temoins du miracle, 
 
 Du bon Paris baisent le tabernacle;' — La Pucelle, iii. 
 
 At length, by an ordinance of January 1732, the grave- 
 yard was closed, and the day after a placard appeared on 
 the gates with the epigram — 
 
 ' De par le roi, defense a Dieu 
 De faire miracle en ce lieu. ' 
 
 The convulsions long continued in other places in Paris, 
 leading to the most horrible orgies. 
 
 Now the churchyard of S. Mddard is a charming little 
 garden, and, being in a crowded quarter, its many benches 
 are constantly filled. This and many church gardens of 
 Paris are an example of what might have been done in 
 London, every object of interest being preserved, every 
 inequality of ground made the most of, and thickets of 
 shade planted, instead of the ground being levelled, divided 
 by hideous straight asphalte or gravel walks, and a few 
 miserable shrubs being considered as sufficient. 
 
 The name of the Rue Mouffetard, which leads north 
 from hence into the quarter of the University, commemo- 
 rates the Mons Cetardus (Mont Cetard, Mouffetard). In 
 this district considerable remains of a Roman cemetery have 
 
326 PARIS 
 
 been found during different excavations. Here also was 
 tlie famous oratory of S. Marcel of the XI. c. and crypt 
 of the IX. c, containing the tomb of the saint upon which 
 Gregory of Tours informs us that Bishop jRagnemode in the 
 VI. c. passed a whole day in praying to be cured of ague, fell 
 asleep, and awoke quite well. After the body of S. Marcel 
 had been moved to Notre Dame to preserve it from the 
 Normans, the pilgrims to his grave found that filings 
 from his tombstone, swallowed in a glass of water, were as 
 efficacious as his relics had been. Pierre Lombard, Bishop 
 of Paris, who died 1160, was buried here, where the revolu- 
 tionists, who broke open his tomb in 1793, saw his body 
 lying intact, and stole the jewels from his pontifical robes. 
 
 On the east of the Rue Mouffetard opens the Hue de 
 I'Epk de Bois, where the famous and beloved Soeur Rosalie 
 lived as superior of the house of the Sceurs de la Charity, 
 and where she died, February 6, 1856. 
 
 ' La soeur Rosalie devint I'intermddiaire d'une r&onciliation entre 
 la society et le faubourg Saint-Marceau. Elle dissipait les preventions 
 qui existaient centre lui, et le justifiait en le faisant mieux connaitre : 
 aussi, quand il ^tait attaque devant elle, quand on lui adressait quelque 
 reproche, elle le difendait avec vivacite, et protestait energiquement 
 centre I'injustice. . . Sous tous les regimes et jusqu'k son dernier jour, 
 la soeur Rosalie fut, aux yeux du pauvre, le veritable representant de 
 tout le bien qui se faisait au faubourg Saint- Maiceau.' — De Melun. 
 
 The Rue Claude Bernard (left) and the Rue S. Jacques 
 (left) lead to the grille (left) of the Val de Grace, once a 
 Benedictine abbey, founded by Anne of Austria, who pro- 
 mised a ' temple au seigneur ' if, after twenty-two years of 
 sterile married life, she should give birth to a son. The 
 birth of Louis XIV. was the supposed result. After the 
 suppression of the abbey at the Revolution its buildings 
 
VAL DE GRACE 327 
 
 were turned into a school of medicine and a military hos- 
 pital. The rooms of Anne of Austria are preserved— the 
 same rooms which Louis XIII. and Cardinal Richelieu 
 ransacked for evidence of her political intrigues in 1637. 
 
 The first stone of the Church (not open before 12) v?as 
 laid for his mother by Louis XIV. in 1645, when he was 
 seven years old. Frangois Mansart was its original archi- 
 tect and began the work, which was continued by Jacques 
 Lemercier and completed by Pierre Lemuet, for it was not 
 iinished till 1665. The facade is inscribed ' Jesu nascenti 
 Virginique Matri,' and all the decorations of the interior 
 have reference to the birth of Christ, in allusion to that of 
 Louis XIV. The dome, which has considerable beauty, 
 and is the most important in Paris after the Pantheon and 
 the Invalides, is covered with paintings by Pierre Mignard, 
 representing Anne of Austria (assisted by S. Louis) offer- 
 ing the church to the Trinity in her gratitude, in the pre- 
 sence of all catholic Christendom, portrayed in two hundred 
 figures. The coffered roof is too rich for the height of the 
 building. 
 
 The paintings in the Chapel of the S. Sacrement are by 
 Philippe and Jean Baptiste de Champaigne, the sculptures 
 by Michel Auguier. The high-altar is in (far-away) imita- 
 tion of that of S. Peter at Kome. Joseph and Mary are 
 represented adoring the Infant, with the inscription ' Qui 
 creavit me requievit in tabernaculo meo.' Henrietta Maria, 
 Queen of England, widow of Charles L, and daughter of 
 Henri IV. of France, is buried here, and hither the twenty- 
 six hearts of royal persons buried at S. Denis were carried 
 with great pomp, attended by princes and princesses of the 
 blood. Hither the heart of Anne of Austria herself was 
 
328 PARIS 
 
 brought, soon after she had carried that of her little grand- 
 daughter Anne-Elisabeth de France, with her own hands, 
 to the Val de Grace. The hearts of three dauphins — son, 
 grandson, and great-grandson of Louis XIV. — were all 
 brought hither in the melancholy year of 1712. In the 
 court before the church is a statue of the surgeon Larrey 
 (i 766-1842), who followed the French armies in the Penin- 
 sular war — one of the last works of David d'Angers. Three 
 people were burnt alive in the courtyard for upsetting the 
 Host as it was being carried by. 
 
 Opposite the hospital, the Rue Val de Grice leads to the 
 Hue iTEnfer, on the site of Vauvert, a hunting lodge of the 
 early kings. 
 
 ' La rue d'Enfer, oil I'on ne voit plus ni diables, ni revenants, mais 
 qui porte sur des cameras beaucoup plus dangereuses. Saint Louis la 
 donna aux Chartreux, pour exorciser ces fantomes. Depuis ce temps, 
 on n'y vit plus de spectres ; et lesdites maisons, bien peuplees, rappor- 
 tent de bel et bon argent. ' — Tableau de Paris. 
 
 In the Rue Val de Grace and Rue d'Enfer was the 
 Church of Notre Dame des Carmklites, built upon a crypt in 
 which S. Denis is said to have taken refuge. A priory 
 called Notre Dame des Champs existed here and belonged to 
 the Benedictines ; Catherine d'Orl^ans, Duchesse d'Longue- 
 ville, bought it for Spanish Carmelites in 1605. The church 
 was adorned with the utmost magnificence, the vault being 
 painted by Philippe de Champaigne, and contained some 
 of the finest pictures in Paris, and a number of tombs, in- 
 cluding those of Cardinal de Bdrulle (15 17) and of Antoine 
 Varillas (1696). The crypt was of great antiquity and was 
 supposed to belong to a temple of Mercury, of whom there 
 was said to be a statue at the top of the gable of the church. 
 
NOTRE. DAME DES CARMELITES 
 
 329 
 
 more probably intended for S. Michael' It was here that 
 -so many of the princesses of the blood royal and other 
 eminent persons were buried in the time of Louis XIV., the 
 Regency, and Louis XV. 
 
 Here Louise Frangoise de la Baume le Blanc, Mile de 
 la Vallifere, mistress of Louis XIV. and mother of the Comte 
 de Vermandois and Princesse de Conti, took the veil, June 3, 
 1675, in her thirty-first year, as Sister Marie de la Misd- 
 ricorde. 
 
 CHAPEL OF LES CAKME5. 
 
 ' Elle fit cette action, comme toutes les autres de sa vie, d'une 
 mjiniere noble et tout charmante. Elle etoit d'une beauti qui sur- 
 prenoit tout le monde. ' — Mme de Shiign^. 
 
 'Jan. 1680. — Je fus hier aux grandes Carmelites avec Madem- 
 oiselle. Nous entrSmes dans ce saint lieu. Je vis Mme Stuart belle 
 et contente. Je vis Mile d'Epernon, qui me parut horriblement 
 changee. Mais quel ange m'apparut k la fin ! Ce fut k mes yeux 
 tous les charmes que nous avons vus autrefois ; je ne la trouvai, ni 
 ' See Hist, de I' Acad, des Inscrip, ili. 300. 
 
33° PARIS 
 
 bouffie, ni jaune ; elle est moins maigre et plus contente : elle a ses 
 m^mes yeux et ses mgmes regards : I'austerit^, la mauvaise nourriture 
 et le peu de sommell, ne les lui ont ni creus^s, ni battus : cet habit si 
 Strange n'ote rien k la bonne grace, ni au bon air ; pour la modestie, 
 elle n'est pas plus grande que quand elle donnait au monde une 
 Princesse de Conti ; mais c'est assez pour une Carmelite. M. de 
 Conti I'aime et rhonore tendrement ; elle est son directeur. En verity, 
 cet habit et cette retraite sont une grande dignite pour elle. ' — Mme de 
 
 Mile de la Vallifere died here in 1710. 
 
 ' Sa fortune et sa honte, la modestie, la bonte dont elle en usa, la 
 bonne foi de son cceur sans aucun autre melange, tout ce qu'elle 
 employa pour empecher le roi d'^terniser la m^moire de sa faiblesse et 
 de son pech^ en reconnaissant ni l^gitimant les enfants qu'il eut d'elle, 
 ce qu'elle souffrit du roi et de Mme de Montespan, ses deux fuites de 
 la cour, la premiere aux benedictines de Saint-Cloud, oil le roi alia en 
 personne se la faire rendre, pret a commander de bruler le couvent, 
 I'autre aux fiUes de Sainte-Marie-de-Chaillot, oil le roi envoya M. de 
 Lauzun, son capitaine des gardes, avec main forte pour enfoncer le 
 couvent, qui la ramena, cet adieu public si touchant k la reine qu'elle 
 avait toujours respectee et men^ee, et ce pardon si humble qu'elle lui 
 demanda prosternee i ses pieds devant toute la cuur, en partant pour 
 les Carmelites, la penitence si soutenue tons les jours de sa vie, fort 
 au-dessus des aust^rites de sa r^gle, cette suite exacte des emplois de la 
 maison, ce souvenir si continuel ' de son p&he, cet eloignement 
 constant de tout commerce, et de se mfiler de quoi que ce flit, ce sont 
 des choses qui pour la plupart ne sont pas de nion temps, non plus 
 que la foi, la force et I'humilit^ qu'elle tit paraitre a la mort du comte 
 de Vermandois, son fils.' — S. Simon, 17 10. 
 
 Here Mme de Genlis describes 'qu'elle s'dtait jet^e en 
 religion ' — really becoming a pensionnaire at the convent. 
 The Carmelite monastery was entirely destroyed at the 
 Revolution. But the Carmelites are now re-established 
 on part of their former site ; though nothing remains of 
 the ancient glories of the church except a marble statue 
 from the tomb of Cardinal de Bdrulle, founder of the order 
 
PORT ROYAL DE PARIS 331 
 
 in France, by Jacques Sarazin, which was preserved by 
 having been removed by Alexandre Lenoir. 
 
 In the Hue Nicole (close to No. 19) between the 
 Rue Val de Grace and the Boulevard de Port Royal, 
 stands, in a courtyard, a picturesque and neglected little 
 XVII. c. chapel, said to be that in which the remains of 
 Sister Louise formerly reposed. 
 
 In the Rue d'Enfer also was the convent of the Char- 
 treuse, also called Notre Dame de Vauvert, from the lands 
 bestowed upon it, demolished in the Revolution. Its church 
 contained the tombs of Pierre de Navarre, son of Charles le 
 Mauvais (141 2) ; Jean de la Lune, nephew of the antipope 
 Benedict XIII. (1414) ; Louis Stuart, seigneur d'Aubignd 
 (1665) ; and Cardinal Jean de Dormans, Bishop of Beauvais 
 (1374), with a bronze statue. It was for the little cloister 
 of this convent that Lesueur painted the famous pictures 
 of the life of S. Bruno, now in the Louvre. They are now the 
 only relic of a convent which was founded by S. Louis. 
 
 Till late years a building existed within the precincts of 
 the Cha,rtreuse, where the famous Calvin found a refuge n 
 1532- 
 
 ' Le parlement manda i sa barre le recteur de I'universite, Nicolas 
 Cop, soupfonn^ d'h^r&ie, et lui ordonna de s'assurer sur I'heure d'un 
 eleve en droit qui se cachait b. la Chartreuse. Au lieu de faire arr^ter 
 le l^giste, Cop le prevint et s'evada avec lui. . , , Cet eleve, c'itait 
 Calvin. ' — Touchard-Lafosse, ' Hist, de Paris. ' 
 
 Close by was Port Royal de Paris, formerly the Hotel 
 Clagny, purchased and founded by Mme Arnauld, mother of 
 the famous Mfere Ang^lique, as a succursale of the celebrated 
 abbey of Port Royal des Champs near Chevreuse, of which 
 the original name Porrois was corrupted to Port Royal. 
 
332 PARTS 
 
 The nuns were dispersed and the abbey seized by the arch- 
 bishop of Paris in the Jansenist persecution of 1664. M. 
 d'Andilly had six daughters nuns here at the time, and had 
 had six sisters, of whom Agnfes and Eugdnie were still living. 
 The famous Mfere Angelique had removed hither in her last 
 days from Port Royal des Champs, and died in the convent, 
 aged seventy, August 6, 1661. During the Revolution the 
 buildings of Port Royal de Paris were used as a military 
 prison, called in derision Port Libre. An alabaster urn 
 which was much venerated in the church of Port Royal 
 as having borne a part in the feast of Cana, still exists, 
 neglected, in a warehouse of one of the museums.' 
 
 (3 k. outside the old Barrifere de Fontainebleau is the 
 great Hospital of Bicetre, founded by Richelieu, for old or 
 insane men, on the site of a palace which the Due de Berry, 
 uncle of Charles "VL, built on a spot formerly occupied by a 
 castle which was erected in 1290 by John, Bishop of Win- 
 chester — of which name Bicetre is regarded as a corruption.) 
 . A little south-west of Val de Grace is the Observatoire, 
 (supposed to stand on the site of the Chateau de Vauvert, 
 which S. Louis gave to the Carthusians), built after the 
 ideas of Colbert, and from the designs of the physician 
 Perrault (1667-72). 
 
 It was in the Allk de V Observatoire, behind the Luxem- 
 bourg garden, that Marshal Ney, Prince de la Moscowa, 
 called 'le brave des braves' by Napoleon I., was executed 
 for high treason, November 21, 1815, because, when in the 
 service of Louis XVIII. (who had made him a peer of 
 France), he deserted, with his army, to Napoleon after his 
 
 ^ Two famous works of Philippe de Champaigne in the Louvre come from hence 
 ^the Last Supper, and the Miraculous Cure of a Nun, the painter's daughter. 
 
LES CATACOMEES 333 
 
 escape from Elba. A statue by Rude marks the spot of 
 execution. 
 
 ' A neuf heures du matin, Ney, rev6tu d'un froc bleu, monta dans 
 line voiture de place. Le grand -referend aire accompagna le mar^chal 
 jusqu'au fiacre. Le cure de Saint-Sulpice ^tait a ses cotes ; deux 
 officiers de gendarmerie sur le devant de la voiture. Le lugubre 
 cortege traversa le jardin du Luxembourg du cote de I'Observatoire. 
 En sortant de la grille, il prit i gauche, et fit halte cinquante pas plus 
 loin, sous les murs de I'avenue. La voiture sMtant arret^e, le 
 niarechal en descendit lestement, et se tenant i huit pas du mur, il 
 dit 4 I'officier : " Est-ce ici. Monsieur?" " Oui, M. le mar&hal." 
 Alors Ney 6ta son chapeau de la main gauche, plafa la droite sur son 
 coeur, et s'adressant aux soldats, il s'ecria : " Mes camarades, tirer 
 sur moi." L'officier donne le signal du feu, et Ney tomba sans faire 
 aucun mouvement.' — Hist, de la Restauration, par un homme (titat. 
 
 ' Ce qui frappe surtout dans cette horrible execution, c'est ce 
 qu'elle a de morne, de peu solennel, La foule n'est pas la, au moment 
 supreme ; on I'a trompee : elle est k la plaine de Crenelle ; Michel 
 Ney, marechal de France, prince de la Moscowa, due d'Elchingen, 
 est fusilW dans un lieu muet, desert, au pied d'un mur, par des 
 soldats qui se cachent, sur I'ordre d'un gouvernement qui a peur de 
 sa propre violence. ' — Louis Blanc, ' Hist, de dix ans. ' 
 
 Just outside the Barriere d'Enfer, close to the Observa- 
 toire (in the garden of the west octroi building) is the prin- 
 cipal entrance to the Catacomis, formed out of the ancient 
 stone-quarries which underlie — about 200 acres — a great part 
 of Paris between this and the Jardin des Plantes. The 
 sinking of these galleries in the latter part of the last century 
 made it necessary to consolidate them, and gave rise to the 
 idea of using them as cemeteries, when it became necessary 
 to transport the bones in the Ciraetibre des Innocents to 
 some other site. The catacombs were solemnly consecrated, 
 April 7, 1786, since which they have become avast ossuary. 
 Ninety steps lead down from the level of the Barrifere d'Enfer. 
 Each set of bones has an inscription saying whence and 
 when it was brought here, with poetical inscriptions from 
 
334 PARIS 
 
 different French authors. The tomb of the poet Gilbert 
 bears, from his last elegy, the words — 
 
 Au banquet de la vie, infortune convive, 
 
 J'apparus un jour et je meurs ; 
 Je meurs ! et sur la tombe ou lentement j'arrive, 
 
 Nul ne viendra verser des pleurs. 
 
 Several rooms, like chapels, are inscribed ' Tombeau de 
 la Revolution,' ' Tombeau des Victimes,' &:c., and contain 
 the victims of the massacre of September 2 and 3, 1789. 
 At one point is a fountain called ' Fontaine de la Samari- 
 taine.' Amongst the coffins brought here was the leaden 
 one of Mme de Pompadour, buried in the vaults of the 
 Capucines, April 1764 ; but it was destroyed in the Revolu- 
 tion. Any visitor left behind in the catacombs would soon 
 be devoured alive by rats, and accidents which have occurred 
 have led to the prohibition of all visits, except those which 
 take place en masse three or four times a year, and for which 
 an order has to be obtained at the Hotel de Ville. 
 
 ' Tout ce qui a v^cu dans Paris dort ici, vagjies multitudes et grands 
 hommes, saints canonist et supplicies de Montfaucon et de la place 
 de Greve. Dans cetfe confuse ^galit^ de la mort, les rois m^rovingiens 
 gardent I'eternel silence ac6te des massacres de Septembre '92. Valois, 
 Bourbons, Orleans et Stuarts achfevent de pourrir au hasard, perdus 
 eutre les malingreux de la cour des Miracles et les deux mille de la 
 Religion que mit k mort la Saint-Barthdlemy. ' — Nadar, 
 
 On the Boulevard Montparnasse, which leads from the 
 Observatoire to the Invalides, is La Grande Chaumiire, one 
 of the oldest of the Parisian dancing-gardens, where strangers 
 may look derrilre les coulisses de la societe. A little south of 
 this, outside the Barrifere, on the Boulevard de Montrouge, 
 is the Cimetiire Montparnasse {du Sud), opened 1824, on 
 the suppression of the Cimetibre Vaugirard. Amongst the 
 
CIMETIERE MONTPARNASSE 335 
 
 tombs are those of the famous Jesuit preacher Pfere de 
 Ravignan, the Pfere Gratry, Edgar Quinet, and the artist 
 Henri Regnault, killed in the siege of Paris, January 19, 
 1871, by one of the last shots fired under the walls, and 
 whose funeral was one of the most touching ceremonies of 
 that time.' Near the entrance (right), behind the family 
 tomb of Henri Martin the historian, is a space railed in as 
 the burial-place of the Sisters of Charity, amongst whom 
 lies Sceur Rosalie (Rendu), the ' mother of the poor,' who, 
 equally courageous in the dangers of revolutions and of 
 cholera, as wise and clear-sighted as she was simple and self- 
 sacrificing, has probably influenced a greater number of 
 persons for good than any woman of the present century. 
 
 ' Le jour des fun&ailles fut un de ces jours qui ne s'oublient pas, et 
 qui dans la vie d'un peuple rach^tent bien des mauvais jours A onze 
 lieures, le convoi sortit de la maison fun^bre ; le clerg^ de Saint- 
 Medard, auquel s'etait joint un grand nombre d'ecclesiastiques, 
 marchait en t§te, precede de la croix ; les jeuiies fiUes de I'^cole et du 
 patronage rappelaient les oeuvres de leur mfere. Les soeurs de la 
 Charity entouraient le cerceuil, plac^ dans le" corbillard des pauvres, 
 comme I'avait demand^ la sceur Rosalie, afin que Saint Vincent de 
 Paul pdt la reconnaltre jusqu'i la fin pour une de ses fiUes ; I'adminis- 
 tration municipale et le bureau de bienfaisance du douzitoe arrondisse- 
 ment venaient ensuite ; puis, derri^re eux, se pressait une de ces 
 multitudes que Ton ne peut ni compter, ni d^crire, de tout rang, de 
 tout age, de toute profession ; un peuple entier, avec ses grands et 
 ses petits, ses riches et ses pauvres, ses savants et ses ouvriers, avec ce 
 qu'il y a de plus illustre et de plus obscur, ; tous meles, confondus, 
 exprimant, sous des formes et des paroles diverses, les memes regrets, 
 Ja mSme admiration ; tous ayant ^ remercier d'un service ou a louer 
 d'une bonne action celle a qui ils venaient rendre les derniers devoirs. 
 On efit dit que la sainte morte avait donne reiidez-vous autour de son 
 cercueil k tous ceux qu'elle avait visitfe, secourus, conseiIl& pendant 
 les longues annees de sa vie, et qu'elle exeryait encore sur eux 
 1'a.scendant de sa presence et de sa parole ; car ces hommes, partis des 
 
 ^ See Arthur Duparc, Corresponda-nce de Henri Regnault. 
 
336 PARIS 
 
 extremites les plus oppos^es de la soci^t^, separfe par leur education, 
 leurs idees, leurs positions, qui peut-4tre ne s'etaient rencontres jusque- 
 Ik que pour se combattre, etaient reunis en ce jour dans una mteie 
 pens^e, dans un m^me recueillement. '—De Melun, ' Vie de la Saur 
 Rosalie,'' 
 
 Returning to the Rue S. Jacques, which runs north from 
 the Observatoire, we find ourselves in the region of con- 
 vents. In the Rue des Capucins was the Convent of the 
 Capucins du Faubourg S. Jacques, afterwards turned into the 
 Hdpital des Veneriens, the cruelties of which have left a 
 lasting impression at Paris. 
 
 ' lis couchaient jusqu'a huit dans le m?me lit, ou plutot ils reslaient 
 etendus par terre, depuis huit heures du soir jusqu'k une heure du 
 matin, et faisaient alors lever ceux qui occupaient le lit, pour les 
 remplacer. Vingt ou vingt-cinq lits servaient ordinairement deux cents 
 personnes, dont les deux tiers mouraient. Ce n'est pas tout : les 
 malades devaient ^tre, d'apres les arr^t^s de I'administration, chaties et 
 fustigfe, avant et apr^s leur traitement. Get horrible ^tat de choses 
 subsistait au dix-huitifeme siecle : et une deliberation de I'an 1700 re- 
 nouvelle expressement I'ordre de fustiger ces malades.'— Z^a/awrt-, 
 'Hist, de Paris.' 
 
 Side-Streets bear the names of the Feuiliantines, Ursu- 
 lines. A house, close to the Val de Grace, now used as a 
 school (Institution Notre Dame, No. 269), was the convent 
 of the Bdnddictins Anglais, founded by Marie de Lorraine, 
 Abbess of Chelles. It was here that the body of James II., 
 who died at S. Germain, remained for many years under a 
 hearse, awaiting sepulture, in order that his bones, like 
 those of Joseph, might accompany his children when they 
 returned to the English throne, and repose at Westminster 
 in accordance with his will. It was only when the hopes of 
 the Stuarts had completely withered that the king was buried 
 under a plain stone inscribed, ' Ci-gist Jacques II., Roi de 
 
S. JACQUES DU HAUT PAS ^37 
 
 la Grande-Bretagne.' By his side, after her death (in 17 12), 
 rested his daughter Louisa, born at S. Germain. Queen 
 Marie Beatrice was buried at Chaillot. The bodies were 
 lost at the Revolution. 
 
 The old winding Rue S. Jacques is Here very picturesque, 
 with a great variety of roofs and dormer windows. This, 
 one of the oldest of Parisian streets, is full of movement 
 and noise, but the side streets in all this quarter are 
 quietude itself. 
 
 ' Sileijce r^gne dans les rues serr^es entre le dome du Val de Grice 
 et le dSme du Pantheon, deux monuments qui changent les conditions 
 de I'atmosph^re en y jettant des tons jaunes, en y assombrissant tout 
 par les teintes s^v^res que projettent leurs coupoles. Li, les paves 
 sont sees, les ruisseaux n'ont ni boue ni eau, I'herbe crolt le long des 
 murs. L'homme le plus insouciant s'y attriste corome tous les passants, 
 le bruit d'une voiture y devient un evfeement, les maisons y sont 
 mornes, les murailles y sentent la prison. Un Parisien egare ne verrait 
 Ik que des pensions bourgeoises ou des Institutions, de la misere ou de 
 I'ennui, de la vieillesse qui meurt, de la joyeuse jeunesse contrainte k 
 travailler. Nul quartier de Paris n'est plus horrible, ni, disons-le, plus 
 inconnu.' — Balzac, ' Le Fire Gorioi,' 
 
 On the left of the Rue S. Jacques we pass the Institution 
 des Souris-Muets, occupying the buildings of the ancient 
 Seminary of S. Magloire. A conspicuous feature rising 
 above the courtyard is a magnificent elm, of very great 
 height, supposed to have been planted by Henri IV., and 
 to be the oldest tree in Paris. Massillon is said often to 
 have sat reading at its foot. 
 
 Close by, is the Church of S. Jacques du Hauf Pas, built 
 1630-84, partly at the expense of the Duchesse de Longue- 
 ville. During the Revolution it beca.me Le Temple de la 
 Bienfaisance. The portal was designed by Daniel Gittard. 
 The pulpit comes from the old church of S. Benoit. The 
 
 z 
 
338 PARIS 
 
 Duchesse de Longueville (the faithful friend of the Port- 
 Royalists), who died April 15, 1679, is buried in the second 
 chapel (right), but without a tomb. 
 
 ' La duchesse de Longueville est morte dans une grande devotion, 
 mais dans sa jeunesse elle ^tait \xh> coquette et galante. Son mari etait 
 gouvemeur de Normandie, elle dut I'accompagner dans son gouveme- 
 ment et elle etait fort chagrine de quitter la cour : elle y avail laiss^ des 
 gens qu'elle aimait plus que son mari, une personne surtout, de sorte que 
 le temps lui dura bien. Beaucoup de gens lui dirent : " D'ou vient, 
 madame, que vous vous laisser ennuyer, comme vous faites ? que ne 
 jouez-vous ? " " Je n'aime pas le jeu," repondlt-elle. " Si vous vouliez 
 chasser, je trouverais des chiens," disait I'un. " Non, je n'aime pas la 
 chasse. " " Voudriez-vous des ouvrages ? " " Non, je ne travaille point." 
 " Voudriez-vous promener ? II y a de belles promenades ici. " "Non, je 
 n'aime pas la promenade." " Qu'aimez-vous done?" Elle r^pondit, 
 ''Que voulez-vous que je vous dise ? Je n'aime point le plaisir inno- 
 cent." ' — Cornspondance de Madame. 
 
 The gravestone still remains of M. de S. Cyran, who 
 died Oct. 11, 1672, aged 62, the founder of the celebrity of 
 Port Royal, the master of the Arnaulds, Lemaitres, Nicole, 
 and Pascal. 
 
 On the left is the Place S.Jacques, where Fieschi, Pepin 
 and Morey, conspirators against Louis Philippe, were exe- 
 cuted in 1835. 
 
 The Rue S. Jacques has always been, as it is stUl, cele- 
 brated for its booksellers' shops and stalls. 
 
 ' The Via Jacobaea is very full of booke-sellers that have faire 
 shoppes most plentifully furnished with bookes.' — Coryafs ' Crudities,^ 
 1611. 
 
 Now we reach the handsome open space in front of the 
 Pantheon, and all around us are buildings famous in the 
 Pays Latin, which we must leave for another chapter. 
 
339 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY— LE QUARTIER LATIN. 
 
 THE University has given its name to the district in 
 which most of its teachers and scholars resided, a 
 district now outwardly blended with the surrounding streets 
 and houses, but which was once defined as including all 
 the space within the wall of Philippe Auguste on the left 
 bank of the Seine. This wall began at the Pont de la 
 Tournelle on the east, skirted the Rues des Fossds S. 
 Bernard and des Fosses S. Victor, embraced the Abbey of 
 S. Genevifeve (then the Jacobin Convent), descended from 
 the Porte S. Michel to the Porte de Buci,' and ended, on 
 the west, at the Tour de Nesle. The name of Pays Latin 
 was first given to the district by Balzac. 
 
 ' The University of Paris had its inviolable privileges, its own en- 
 dowments, government, laws, magistrates, jurisdiction ; it was a state 
 within a state, a city within a city, a church within a church. It refused 
 to admit within its walls the sergeants of the Mayor of Paris, the ap- 
 paritors of the Bishop of Paris ; it opened its gates sullenly and reluc- 
 tantly to the king's officers.' — Milman, ' Hist, of Latin Christ.' Bk. xi. 
 
 The Boulevard S. Michel and the Boulevard S. Germain, 
 the Rue des Ecoles and the Rue Monge have recently put 
 Old Paris to flight, by cutting into this thickly-packed 
 
 ' From Simon de Buci, the first to bear the title of Premier President, killed in 
 1369. 
 
340 PARIS 
 
 quarter, with wide streets and featureless houses, destroying 
 endless historic landmarks in their course. The greater 
 part of its interesting buildings, however, had already dis- 
 appeared, either during the Revolution, or in the great 
 clearance made on the building of the Pantheon. Yet a 
 walk through this quarter of the ' Civitas philosophorum ' 
 will still recall many historic associations from the very 
 names which are met on the way, whilst here and there 
 a precious relic of the past will still be found in existence. 
 
 A minute examination of the Quartier Latin wiJI be in- 
 teresting to antiquarians, but cursory visitors will only care 
 to see S. Etienne du Mont, the Pantheon, possibly the 
 Sorbonne, and certainly the Hotel de Cluny. In order to 
 visit all the historic points, we must not only frequently 
 retrace our steps, but penetrate many of the narrowest 
 streets and alleys in this part of the town. 
 
 ' N'allez pas prendre en haine tout un quartier de Paris et retrancher 
 la moitie de la ville de votre communion. Ces jeunes gens sont moins 
 gracieux, moins ^Mgants sans doute que leurs yoisins de I'autre c6te de 
 I'eau, et ce n'est point dans le parterre de I'Odeon que le goflt et la 
 mode iront chercher leurs favoris ; mais c'est parmi eux que se recrutent 
 toutes les cfl^brites de I'^poque : la justice, le barreau, les sciences, les 
 arts leur appartiennent ;' leurs jours, quelquefois leurs nuits, sont con- 
 sacr& au travail, et c'est ainsi que se pr^parent dans le silence des pub- 
 licistes, des pontes, des orateurs. Faut-il les condamner parce qu'ils 
 ont prefer^ le fond i la forme, le travail i. I'oisivet^, la science au 
 plaisir ? II ne faut condamner personne, il faut seuleraent r^p^ter aux 
 auteurs qu'il y a deux jeunesses en France : I'une jouit de la vie et 
 I'autre I'emploie : I'une attend son avenir et I'autre I'escompte. La 
 premiere est la plus sage sans doute, mais elle salue bien raal ! ' — • 
 Victor Hugo, ' Esquisses Parisiennes.' 
 
 Crossing the island by the Rue de la Cit6, we reach the 
 Petit Pont, formerly, like many of the bridges, covered with 
 
S. J U LIEN LE PAUVRE 341 
 
 old houses, which were only abolished here by Act ot Parlia- 
 ment in 1 7 18. In one of these houses on this bridge lived 
 Perinet le Clerc, who opened the gates of Paris to the Due 
 de Bourgogne in 1418. On the south bank of the Seine 
 the bridge was defended by the Petit Chatelet (Castellatum), 
 which guarded the approach to La Cit6, on the site now 
 called Place du Petit Pont. It was a massive quadrangular 
 castle, having round towers on the side towards the river, 
 and a gothic gate in the centre, with a vaulted passage for 
 carriages running under the middle of the building. The 
 Provosts of Paris had their official residence here, but the 
 rest of the castle was used as a prison, in which, after the 
 capture of Paris by the Burgundians (1418), all the prisoners 
 were massacred, including the Bishops of Bayeux, Evreux, 
 Coutances, and Senlis. Here also was the President Brisson 
 murdered, Nov. 16, 1591. By old custom, the clergy of 
 Notre Dame walked hither annually in procession on the 
 JDimanche des Rameaux, and delivered one prisoner. The 
 interesting old buildings of the Petit Chatelet were pulled 
 down in 1782. It was on its site, at the entrance of the Rue 
 S. Jacques, that the great barricade of 1848 was raised. 
 
 The first turn (left) from the Rue du Petit Pont is the Rue 
 de la BUcherie, on the left of which, in a courtyard, is the 
 deserted Church of S. Julien le Pauvre ^ (which can only be 
 seen with an order from the Directeur of the Hotel Dieu) 
 It long served as a chapel to the Hotel Dieu, and once 
 belonged to a priory attached to the abbey of Longchamps, in 
 which in the XIII. c. and XIV c, the general assemblies of the 
 
 ^ ITie S. Julien to whom this church is dedicated was a poor man who, in peni- 
 tence, devoted himself, with his wife, to ferrying passengers, day and night, over an 
 otherwise impassable river. One day a poor leper thus received their charity, and, 
 on reaching the shore, revealed himself as Christ himself, and promised them a 
 heavenly reward. The story is told in a relief over a door in No. 42 Rue Galande, 
 
342 ' PARIS 
 
 University were held. The church was built towards the end 
 of the XII. c. on the site of a basilica of the III. c. Its portal 
 and tower were demolished in 1675. The interior consists 
 of a nave of four bays, with side aisles, ending in three 
 apses. 
 
 ' Les deux travees du choeur, I'abside mediane etles deux absidioles 
 laterales n'ont rien perdu de leur ajustement primitif. Elles conser- 
 vent leurs Elegantes colonnes, les unes monostyles, les autres groupees 
 en faisceaux, leurs chapiteaux k feuillage, leurs vofltes port^es sur les 
 nervures toriques, leurs clefs hlstoriees. Des colonnettes et des moulures 
 d&orent les fenetres. L'aspect dc cette partie de I'eglise est d'un noble 
 caractfere. — Guilkermy, ' liin. archiologique de Paris.'' 
 
 S. Juhen contains a Calvary of XIV. c. let into the altar, 
 a bas-relief of the same date representing one Oudard and his 
 ■ wife, founders of the chapel of the Hotel Dieu, destroyed in 
 the XVI. c. ; the XV. c. sepulchral bas-relief of Henri Rous- 
 seau, advocate of Parliament ; a XVI. c. statue of S. Landry ; 
 and a pretended statue of Charlemagne, a coarse work in 
 terra cotta. Gregory of Tours tells us that when he came 
 to Paris in the VI. c. he inhabited the hospice for pilgrims 
 at S. Julien le Pauvre. 
 
 In the Rue de la Bucherie were early schools of medi- 
 cine. Over one of its houses the arms of the Faculty may 
 still be seen with the motto ' Urbi et orbi salus.' 
 
 The Rue du Fouarre (down which there is a beautiful 
 glimpse of Notre Dame) runs (left) from the Rue de la 
 Bdcherie to the Rue Galande. This street contained the 
 famous school, held in the straw market, where both his 
 earliest biographers, Boccaccio and Villani, affirm that 
 Dante attended the lectures of Siger de Brabant. 
 
 ' Essa k la luce eterna di Sigieri, 
 
 Che leggendo nel vico degli Strami 
 Sillogizz6 invidiosi veri.' — Par. x. 136. 
 
PLACE MAUBERT 343 
 
 The pupils bought bundles of straw and sat on them during 
 the lectures.' 
 
 The narrow Rue des Anglais leads (right) from the Rue 
 Galande to (right) the Rue Domat, where (at No. 20) some 
 buildings remain from the ancient Breton College de Cor- 
 nouailks^ founded in the XIV. c. Near this, at the angle 
 of the Rue S. Jacques, was the Chapelle S. Yves, destroyed 
 in 1793. 
 
 The Place Maubert, an open space at the end of the 
 
 Rue Galande, below the modern Boulevard S. Germain, 
 
 probably received its name from Mgr. Aubert, abbot of 
 
 S. Germain des Pres, to which this site belonged, and who 
 
 must first have authorised its being built upon. 
 
 ' C'est le centre de toute la galanterie bourgeoise du quartier, et elle 
 est assez frequentee, i cause que la licence du causer y est assez grande. 
 C'est la que sur le midy arrive une caravane de demoiselles, h, fleur de 
 corde, dont les meres, il y a dix ans, portoient le chaperon, vraie 
 marque et caractire de bourgeoisie, mais qu'elles ont tellement rogne 
 petit k petit qu'il s'est ^vanoui tout k fait. II n'est pas besoin de dire 
 qu'il y venoit aussi des muguets et des galans, car la consequence en 
 est assez naturelle. Chacune avoit sa suite plus ou moins nombreuse, 
 selon que sa beaut^ ou son bonheur les y attiroit. ' — ' Le roman bour- 
 geois.^ 
 
 In the Rue du Haut Favk, which connects the Place 
 Maubert with the river, stood the little College de Chanac, 
 founded by Guillaume de Chanac, Bishop of Paris, who died 
 1348. It was connected with the College S. Michel, in the 
 next street on the left of the Boulevard S. Germain, the 
 Rue de Bicvre, where, at No. 12, one may still see a 
 canopied statue of S. Michael trampling upon the devil, in 
 
 ^ At that time the people sat upon straw in the churches, iu which there were no 
 chairs then. 
 
 - The names of colleges are only given in italics when something of their buildings 
 remains. 
 
344 
 
 PARIS 
 
 strong relief. A very poor student here in the XVIII. c. was 
 the man who, without faith or morals, rose by his intrigues 
 under the Regent d'Orldans, to be Archbishop of Cambrai, 
 Cardinal, and Prime Minister — the Abb6 Dubois. 
 
 S. NICOLAS DU CHARDONNET 
 
 Returning to the Boulevard S. Germain, we find on the 
 right the apse of the Church of S. Nicolas du Chardonnet, 
 founded 1230, but in its present state a very handsome 
 specimen of the end of the XVII, c, when it was rebuilt, 
 except the tower, by Lebrun the artist, who is buried in the 
 
RUE DBS BERNARDINS 345 
 
 fourth chapel on the left of the choir, with a bust by Coy- 
 sevox. Close by, is the striking and terrible monument of 
 his mother, by Callignon and Tuby, which recalls the tomb 
 of Mrs. Nightingale at Westminster. Mme Lebrun is repre- 
 sented rising from the grave at the voice of the archangel, 
 with an expression of awe, yet hope, most powerfully given. 
 In the second chapel on the right of the choir, is the 
 tomb by Girardon with a bust (and portrait over it) of Jerome 
 Bignon (1656), saved during the Revolution by being trans- 
 ferred to the Musde des Monuments Fran9ais. The poet 
 Santeuil, who died at Dijon in 1697, now lies in this church, 
 after having four times changed his resting-place : his death 
 was due to a practical joke of Louis IIL, Due de Bourbon- 
 Cond^. 
 
 ' Un soir que M. le due soupalt chez lui, il se divertit a pousser 
 Santeuil de vin de Champagne ; et de gaiet^ engaiete, il trouva plaisant 
 de verser sa tabati^re pleine de tabac d'Espagne dans un grand verre 
 de vin, et de faire boire k Santeuil pour voir ce qui en arriverait. II ne 
 fut pas longtemps i en etre eclair^. Les vomissements et la fi^vre le 
 prirent, et en deux fois vingt-quatre heures, le malheureux mourut daas 
 les douleurs de damne, mais dans les sentiments d'une grande penitence, 
 avec lequels il refut les sacrements et ^difia autant qu'il fut regrett6 
 d'une compagnie peu port^e h. redification, mais qui detesta une si 
 cruelle experience.'— 6'. Simon. 
 
 In the almost destroyed Rue des Bernardins, opposite 
 the west end of the church, was the Hotel de Torpane, built 
 in 1566 by Jacques Lefevre, abbot of the Chaise Dieu, and 
 councillor of Charles IX. From him it passed to the family 
 of Bignon, illustrious in politics and literature, whose last re- 
 presentative, a priest, sold it to M. de Torpane, Chancellor 
 of Dombes. In his family it remained till the Revolution. 
 It was pulled down in 1830, and its sculptures are now in 
 the second court of the Beaux Arts. 
 
346 PARIS 
 
 A striking Statue of Voltaire by Houdon, 1781, was 
 erected in the square near the entrance of the Rue Monge 
 in 1872. 
 
 On the left, in the Rue de Poissy, a range of gothic 
 arches, shaded by trees and built into the walls of the 
 Caserne des Pompiers, is a remnant of the Couvent des Ber- 
 nardins or du Chardonnet, founded, in 1245, by Abbot Eti- 
 enne de Lexington. Its monks rapidly became celebrated for 
 their lectures on theology, and Pope Benedict XII., who had 
 attended them in his youth, began to build a new church 
 for the convent in 1 338. This church was pulled down at the 
 Revolution, and a bust from one of its tombs (that of Guil- 
 laume de Vair, bishop of Lisieux, Keeper of the Seals under 
 Louis XIII.) is now at Versailles. The Refectory became 
 a warehouse, and the Dormitory, for some time, held the 
 archives of the Prefecture de la Seine. 
 
 A little further on the east, the Rue des Ecoles is 
 crossed by the Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, which is so 
 modernised as to have nothing but its name to recall the 
 College du Cardinal Lemoine, once one of the greatest colleges 
 of the University. It was founded in the middle of the 
 XIII. c. by Cardinal Jean Lemoine and his brother Andr6, 
 bishop of Noyon. The brothers were buried, side by side, 
 in the chapel, where a very curious service, called la solen- 
 nite du cardinal, was always celebrated on January 13, one 
 of the scholars being dressed up as a cardinal, to represent 
 Lemoine. The college was sold at the Revolution. A 
 massive building belonging to it long existed at the end of 
 ground belonging to No. 22 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, and 
 has only recently perished. This street now crosses the site 
 of the College des Bons Enfants, which stood at the top of 
 
RUE DES FOSSES S. VICTOR 347 
 
 the Rue des Fosses S. Bernard. It was founded before 1248, 
 at which date a bull of Innocent IV. authorised its students 
 to build a chapel. Its Principal from 1624 to 1634 was 
 M. Vincent, afterwards known as S. Vincent de Paul, who 
 founded here his Congregation des Pretres de la Mission. 
 After S. Vincent had moved to S. Lazare, the Sdminaire de 
 S. Firmin was established here by the archbishop of Paris. 
 At the Revolution this was the terrible prison in which 
 ninety-two priests were confined. In the massacres of Sep- 
 tember I and 2, 1792, fifteen were saved, but seventy-seven 
 were thrown from the windows, stabbed, or had their throats 
 cut. The buildings were sold, and have now entirely 
 perished. It was in the Rue des Bons Enfants that the 
 Constable Bernard d'Armagnac had his hotel, whence, when 
 Perinet le Clerc introduced the Burgundians into Paris, 
 May 29, 1418, he fled for refuge to the house of a neigh- 
 bouring mason, who betrayed him. 
 
 The College des Bons Enfants joined the walls of 
 Philippe Auguste, the moat of which is still commemorated in 
 the name of the Rue des Fossis S. Bernard, which extended 
 north as far as the Porte S. Bernard near the Seine, trans- 
 formed into a triumphal arch in honour of Louis XIV., and 
 since destroyed. Its continuation, the Rue des Fosses S. Vic- 
 tor, ' in great measure swallowed up by the upper part of the 
 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, united with it in marking the direc- 
 tion of the walls to the south, and commemorated the famous 
 abbey of S. Victor, founded c. 11 13, on the site of a hermit's 
 cell, by Guillaume de Champeaux, who was driven to take 
 monastic vows by his disgust at his lectures being abandoned 
 for those of his rival — the famous Abdlard. Members of 
 
 * Part of the Rue des Fosses S. Victor remaius below the Rue Mooge. 
 
348 PARIS 
 
 this community were the famous writers and theologians, 
 Hugues and Richard de S. Victor, and Adam de S. Victor, 
 celebrated for his hymns. The epitaph of the latter, en- 
 graved on copper, and preserved in the Bibliothfeque Maza- 
 rine, is probably the only rehc remaining of the abbey, which 
 was totally destroyed in the Revolution. It was at one time 
 the favourite burial-place of the bishops of Paris, ^ and was 
 also the place where the provost and other officers of the 
 city met a newly appointed bishop on his entry into the 
 capital, which he always made upon a white horse. 
 
 In the Hue d' Arras, which opens from the Rue Monge 
 opposite the site of the College du Cardinal Lemoine, was 
 the httle XIII. c. College d' Arras, destroyed at the Revo- 
 lution. 
 
 Returning to the Place Maubert, we find on the south 
 side of the Boulevard S. Germain the small fragment left of 
 the Rue S. Jean de Beauvais, in which "the learned Charron 
 fell down dead,^ and which takes its name from a college 
 founded by Cardinal Jean de Dormans, Bishop of Beauvais 
 and Chancellor of France, 1365-72. Here S. Fran9ois 
 Xavier was a teacher, and here the famous Ramus was killed 
 during the Massacre of S. Bartholomew, whilst he was work- 
 ing in his study. 
 
 After the expulsion of the Jesuits, the masters and 
 scholars of the College de Beauvais were transported to the 
 
 * The only monumerts saved from ttiis church are the marble statue of Guillaume 
 de ChanaCj twenty-seventh Bishop of Paris, and Patriarch of Alexandria(i348). which 
 lay upon his tomb in the chapel of the Infirmary, and is now in the Mus^e at Ver- 
 sailles : the epitaph of Adam de S, Victor (1192), now in the Bibliothfeque Mazarine ; 
 and the epitaph of Santeuil removed (with his remains) to S. Nicolas du Chardonnet, 
 
 " ' Le 16 de ce mois, sur les onze heurs du matin, tomba mort en la rue S. Jean 
 de Beauvais, M. Charron, homme d'(?glise et docte, comme ses Merits en font foi. A 
 rinstant qu'il se sentit mal, 11 se jeta a genoux, dans la rue, pour prier Dieu ; mais 
 il ne fut sItQt genouill^, que, se tournant de I'autre c6t6, il rendit Tame k son 
 cr^ateur.' — Journal de VEstoilU, November 1603. 
 
LtCOLE DE DROIT 349 
 
 buildings of the College Louis le Grand, from which the 
 Jesuits had been driven out, and their own buildings were 
 given to the occupants of the College de Lisieux, whicn was 
 about to be destroyed to make the Place S. Genevifeve. In 
 the Revolution the former College de Beauvais became the 
 meeting-place of a section of the Panthdon fran9ais. At 
 the Restoration it was used as a military hospital and barrack. 
 In 1 86 1 it was purchased by the Dominicans. They have 
 restored its graceful XIV. c. chapel, the foundation stone of 
 which was laid by Charles V. On a marble altar-tomb 
 before the high-altar lay the bronze effigies of Milus de 
 Dormans, Bishop of Beauvais, nephew of the founder (1387), 
 and of Guillaume de Dormans, Archbiehop of Sens (1405). 
 At the sides were six life-size statues representing three 
 males and three females of the house of Dormans, with 
 gothic inscriptions in Latin and French. Of these the 
 statues of Jean de Dormans, Chancellor of Beauvais (1380), 
 and his brother Renaud, Archdeacon of Chylous sur Marne 
 (i 380), are now in the Musde at Versailles. One of the ladies 
 has had a more remarkable fate, in being used to represent 
 H<^loise in the tomb which was composed of ancient frag- 
 ments for the Pfere Lachaise. 
 
 The College de Beauvais joined the College de Presles, 
 estabhshed in 1313 by Raoul de Presles for the benefit of 
 natives of Soissons. Higher up the street stood the ancient 
 Ecole de Droit, where the Duchesse de Bourbon, mother 
 of the unfortunate Due d'Enghien and aunt of king Louis 
 Philippe, died, January 10, 1822. 
 
 ' La duchesse de Bourbon, frappee d'apoplexie dans I'eglise S. 
 Genevieve, fut transport^e a TEcoIe de Droit, ou elle mourut chez 
 M. Grapp, professeur k la dite &ole.' — Dussieux, ' Ginialogie des 
 Bourbons. ' 
 
350 PARIS 
 
 The Ecole de Droit stood opposite the Commanderie de 
 S. Jean de Latran, where the Frferes Hospitaliers de S. Jean 
 de Jerusalem had their h6tel. In their church was placed, 
 under Louis XIV., the cenotaph of Jacques de Souvrd, 
 Grand Prieur de France, by Frangois Auguier, which is now 
 in the Louvre. The church, partly destroyed at the Revolu- 
 tion, became a communal school ; its tower — 'la tour des 
 pHerins ' — was used as an anatomical theatre by the famous 
 Bichat. Though strikingly simple and beautiful from an 
 architectural point of view, and though an undoubted work 
 of the time of Philippe Auguste, the town of Paris, to its 
 eternal disgrace, permitted the destruction of the Tour des 
 Pblerins in 1854. 
 
 Crossing by the Rue des Ecoles into the Rue des 
 Carmes, the parallel street on the east, we find, in the court 
 of No. 15, the old chapel, like an Oxford college chapel, 
 belonging to the Irish Seminary in the Rue des Postes, 
 which was attached to the College des Lombards, founded 
 in T333 by Andr^ Ghini, Bishop of Arras, for the benefit of 
 Italian merchants. Under Louis XII. its Principal was the 
 famous Greek scholar, Jerome Alexandre, afterwards car- 
 dinal. In the reign of Frangois I. its printing office was 
 celebrated. Under Louis XIV., as few Italians came to 
 Paris, the college declined, and was ceded to Irish priests 
 employed in education. Most of the buildings were de- 
 stroyed at the Revolution. 
 
 At the corner of the Utte S. Hilaire stood the church of 
 S. Hilaire, pulled down in the last century, and opposite it 
 was the College de la Merci, founded in the XVI. c. for 
 brothers of Notre Dame de la Redemption des Captifs. 
 
 The March'e des Carmes marks the site of the Carmelite 
 
COLLEGE DES GRASSINS 351 
 
 convent, which was founded by Jeanne d'Evreux, wife of 
 Philippe le Bel, for monks brought from Mount Carmel by 
 S. Louis. The convent was moved hither from the Marais, 
 where the Carmelites are commemorated in the Rue des 
 Barres. The cloister had a beautiful gothic open-air pulpit. 
 
 Hence we may ascend the £ue de la Montagne. On the 
 left was the XIII. c. CoUfege de la Marche. 
 
 Further on the left the vast buildings of the Ecole Polytech- 
 nique swallow up the sites of the ancient colleges of Navarre, 
 Boncourt, and Tournai, the first of which was founded by 
 Jeanne de Navarre, wife of Philippe le Bel, the second (in 
 1355)1 by eight scholars of the diocese of Th^rouanne. 
 Cardinal Fleury was grand-master of the College de Navarre, 
 which numbers the great Bossuet amongst its pupils, also 
 Andri^ and Marie Joseph Chdnier. On the right, the Kue 
 Laplace, formerly Rue des Amandiers, contained the 
 entrance to the College des Grassins, one of the ten great 
 colleges before the Revolution. It was founded at the end 
 of the XVI. c. by Pierre Grassin d'Ablon, Councillor of 
 Parliament, for poor men of Sens. Its buildings were sold 
 at the Revolution, but part of the apse of the chapel, with 
 gothic windows, is said still to remain at the back of the 
 houses. 
 
 In the upper part of the Rue des Amandiers, close to 
 S. Etienne du Mont, stood the College de Huban, founded 
 (in 1339) by Jean de Huban, President des Enqu^tes, for six 
 scholars from Huban in Nivernais. This college was some- 
 times called Ave Maria, from the inscription under an 
 image over the gate, Its chapel contained monuments to 
 the founder and Egasse du Boulay, historian of the Uni- 
 versity of Paris. The buildings were sold at the Revolution. 
 
352 PARIS 
 
 The Church of S. EHenne du Mont—^ fine et delicate 
 merveille de I'art frangais' — was built (1517-1626) on the 
 site of an earlier edifice of the XIII. c, which had been 
 intended as a succursale to the adjoining church of S. 
 Genevifeve, that it might afibrd accommodation for its 
 pilgrims. . The existing church is a curious specimen of 
 renaissance, with a high .gabled front of three stories, of 
 which Queen Marguerite, first wife of Henri IV., laid the 
 first stone, and a tall gothic tower flanked by a round 
 tourelle. The building has been well described as ' a gothic 
 church disguised in the trappings of classical details.' 
 
 ' Le grand portail occidental, ^leve dans les premieres annees du 
 xvii" si^cle se distingue par I'originalitd de sa forme, et par la belle 
 ex&ution de sa sculpture. Au premier ordre, quatre colonnes com- 
 posites engagees soutiennent un fronton triangulaire oil est sculpt^ le 
 Jugement dernier (par Debay), et encadrent deux niches laterales 
 renfermant les statues de saint Etienne et de sainte Genevieve (par 
 Hftert). Les fQts sont canneles et coupes de distance en distance par 
 des banderoles historiees de rosaces et de palmettes. La facture des 
 chapiteaux est excellente. Les guirlandes qui acconipagnent les 
 colonnes, les rinceaux des frises et des encadrements, les modillons et 
 les rosaces du fronton, sont remarquables par I'ampleur du style et par 
 le fini du travail. Le tympan de la porte principale represente la Lapi- 
 dation de S, Etienne (par Thomas). Dans la region superieure de la 
 fajade, une rose a douze compartiments s'inscrit sous un fronton demi- 
 circulaire bris^. De cliaque c6t^ de la rose est une niche renfermant, 
 a droite la statue de la Vierge, k gauche celle de Gabriel. Une seconde 
 rose elliptique est perc^e dans le pignon.' — F. de Guilhermy. 
 
 The aisles are the whole height of the church. The 
 triforium gallery merely runs from pillar to pillar along the 
 sides of nave and choir, and is interrupted at the transepts. 
 In the choir it is reached by twisted staircases wreathed round 
 the pillars on either side of the eccentric rood-loft — the 
 only one left in Paris — sculptured by Biard (1600-1605). 
 
5. tTIENNE DU MONT 
 
 353 
 
 ' Sa voflte, en cintre surbaiss^, hardiment jet^e k travers le choeur, 
 les tourelles ^ jour qui en contiennent les escaliers et qui montent en 
 spirale bien au-dessus de la plate-forme, les rampes suspendues qui 
 forment points d'appui, sont autant de difficult^s que I'architecte s'est 
 propos^es pour mieux deployer toutes les ressources de son adresse. Des 
 
 S. ^TIENNE DU MONT (iNTEKIOr). 
 
 anges, des palmes, des rinceaux, des entrelacs, des mascarons, decorent 
 les archivoltes et les frises. Le jube se complete de deux portes qui 
 ferment les bas-c6tds du choeur. Leurs vantaux sont h. claire-voie ; au- 
 dessus de leur entablement sont assis, au milieu de frontons triangulaires 
 interrompus, deux adorateurs d'une gracieuse execution.' — F. de Guil- 
 hermy. 
 
 A A 
 
354 PARIS 
 
 ' L'art religieux vient mourir dans Saint Etienne du Mont. ' H. 
 
 Martin, ' Hist, de France. ' 
 
 The pulpit, which Samson carries on his shoulders, was 
 designed by Laurent de la Hire. The windows of the nave 
 are round-headed, those of the choir pointed. Some of the 
 windows have splendid examples of XV.c. and XVII. c. glass, 
 and Cousin, Pinaigrier, and other great masters have worked 
 on them : the earliest are in the apse. Amongst the stories 
 told in the windows the most remarkable is the legend of 
 the Jew Jonathas, who on April 12, 1290, whilst living in 
 the Rue des Jardins, compelled a woman who owed him 
 money to give up to him a consecrated wafer received at 
 the communion. He pierced the wafer in various ways, 
 and blood gushed forth ; then he threw it into a cauldron 
 full of boiling water, which immediately became the colour 
 of blood. The story got wind. A woman swallowed the 
 wafer. The Jew was seized, condemned, and burnt alive. 
 His house was pulled down, and on its site a chapel, called 
 des Miracles, was built The street was known henceforth 
 3& Rue oil Dieu fut bouilli. 
 
 In the third chapel (right) are inscriptions recording the 
 celebrated persons buried in this or other churches of the 
 parish, including S. Genevifeve, S. Clotilde, Clovis and his 
 daughter Clotilde, Pascal, Tournefort, Rollin, and Le- 
 maistre de Sacy, the anatomist 
 
 In the fifth chapel is a Saint Sdpulcre, of eight life-size 
 terra-cotta figures of the XVI. c, from the destroyed church 
 of S. Benoit — an excellent work, full of unexaggerated feeling. 
 An old picture, in the same chapel, represents Louis XIII. 
 offering his crown to the crucified Saviour. Against the 
 wall of the south aisle of the choir is the gravestone of 
 
S. tTIENNE DU MONT 355 
 
 Blaise Pascal, with a Latin inscription by Boileau, brought 
 from the village church of Magny-les-Hameaux, to which 
 it came from Port Royal ; and that of the anatomist 
 Jacques Ednigne Winslow (converted to Catholicism by 
 Bossuet), brought hither from the destroyed church of S. 
 Benoit. 
 
 In the choir aisles are the gravestones of Racine, who 
 was buried behind the high-altar, and Pascal, whose coffin 
 was brought to the chapel of S. Jean Baptiste after the ruin 
 of Port Royal. . In the second chapel on the right of the 
 choir, the modern gilt shrine of S. Genevifeve, patroness of 
 Paris, rises in gothic glory. Her original shrine was sent 
 to the mint to be melted down in 1793=. The sarcophagus 
 of S. Genevibve was found in the crypt of the abbey 
 church, but it is empty, for her bones were burnt by the 
 mob in the Place de Grfeve in 1801. Candles, however, 
 are always burning around the existing shrine. It is 
 the custom for devotees to buy a taper, and pray while it 
 burns. Every year the neuvaine of S. Genevifeve brings a 
 pious crowd, from every part of Paris, to pray by the tomb 
 of its patroness. In one of the apsidal chapels is the 
 empty stone coffin in which the body of the saint was laid, 
 on January 3, 511, and from which her relics were removed 
 to the original shrine. 
 
 S. Genevifeve was a peasant girl, born at Nanterre, near 
 Paris, in 421, and employed in her childhood as a shep- 
 herdess. When she was seven years old, S. Germain, 
 Bishop of Auxerre, passing through her village, became 
 miraculously aware of the future glory of la pucelette 
 Genevilve, and consecrated her to the service of God. Her 
 course was henceforth marked by miracles, which began 
 
356 
 
 PARIS 
 
 when her mother, struck blind for boxing her ears, was re- 
 stored by her prayers. After the death of her parents Gene- 
 vieve resided with an aged relation in Paris, and led a life of 
 piety and humility, varied by victorious conflicts with demons. 
 
 S. fTlENNE DU MONT (noKTH POKCh). 
 
 When the city was besieged by Attila, and the inhabitants 
 were preparing to fly, she emerged from her solitude and 
 urged them to remain, assuring them that Heaven would 
 deliver them ; and in truth the barbarians withdrew without 
 sacking the town. During the siege by Childeric, Paris was 
 provisioned by boats on the Seine personally commanded by 
 
COLLEGE DES ECOSSAIS 357 
 
 Genevifeve, and, after the city was taken, Clovis and Clotilde 
 were converted by her to Christianity. Then the first chris- 
 tian church was built, in which, dying at eighty-nine, the 
 shepherdess Genevifeve was buried by the side of King Clovis 
 and Queen Clotilde. In her latter years she is said to have 
 lived in a convent near S. Jean en Grfeve, afterwards called 
 I'Hopital des Landriettes. Here a bed was shown as hers, 
 and it was affirmed that in the great flood of the time of Louis 
 le Ddbonnaire, the water, which filled her chamber, formed 
 a solid arch over that sacred couch, leaving it untouched. 
 
 It was in S. Etienne du Mont, in 1857, 'in the very 
 sanctuary itself, at the very steps of the altar, in the 
 midst of his clergy, clothed in his sacred vestments, with 
 mitre on head and crozier in hand, and in the very act 
 of blessing the prostrate congregation,' that Archbishop 
 Sibour was foully murdered by a profligate priest of his own 
 diocese. 
 
 The north porch of S. Etienne, with the little house 
 above it, and its quaint tourelle, is a favourite subject with 
 artists. 
 
 Along the south side of S. Etienne runs the Jiue Clovis, 
 at the end of which (right), in a garden, a bit of the wall of 
 Philippe Auguste may be seen. Near this is the Cabaret 
 du Roi Clovis, which played a part in the affair of the 
 sergeants of La Rochelle. 
 
 Opposite the end of the Rue Clovis (in the upper part 
 of the new Rue du Cardinal Lemoine) is the Institution 
 Chevalier. Over its door, the inscription College des Ecossais, 
 in old characters, tells its former history. It was founded, 
 in 13 13, by David, Bishop of Moray, for four poor scholars 
 of his diocese desiring to study in Paris. Visitors are 
 
3S8 PARIS 
 
 allowed to ascend the fine old oak staircase to the chapel 
 (on the left of the first landing). It is like a college chapel 
 at Oxford in its dark woodwork, stained glass, and picture 
 (of the martyrdom of S. Andrew) over the altar. James II. 
 of England, who died at S. Germain in 1701, bequeathed 
 his brains to this chapel, where they were preserved in a 
 gilt urn (given by the Duke of Perth) resting on a white- 
 marble obelisk, which stood on a black pedestal. Recently, 
 in making a passage, the leaden case containing the brains 
 of the king was found intact. A similar coffer which was 
 found contained, it is believed, the heart of the Duchess of 
 Perth, which formerly lay under an incised slab in the 
 chapel floor. In the recess of one of the windows on the 
 left is an epitaph of a Monteith, mortally wounded at the 
 siege of Dachstern in Alsace, in 1675. 
 
 In the antechapel is, first, the tomb of Frances Jennings, 
 Duchess of Tyrconnell, lady-in-waiting to Queen Mary 
 Beatrice (1731) ; then the black-marble tomb which the 
 faithful James Duke of Perth erected to his master (' moerens 
 posuit '), with a long epitaph describing the king's gentleness 
 and patience in adversity, when driven fiom his throne by 
 the impiety of Absalom, the treachery of Achitophel, and 
 with the cruel taunts of Shimei, when, ' ipsis etiam inimicis 
 amicus, superavit rebus humanis major, adversis superior, 
 et coelestis gloriae studio infiammatus, quod regno caruerit 
 sibi visus beatior, miseram hanc vitam felici, regnum terrestre 
 coelesti, commutavit' 
 
 Opposite is the monument of ' Marianus O'Cruolly,' an 
 Irish knight (1700). 
 
 In the Rue Clovis, opposite the church of S. Etienne 
 (observe here, externally, its flat east end), are the buildings 
 
THE PANTHEON 359 
 
 of the Lyde Henri IF., enclosing the beautiful Tower of 
 the destroyed church of S. Genevifeve, which is romanesque 
 at the base, but XIV. c. and XV. c. in its upper stories. The 
 east side of the Lycde, looking upon the quiet Rue Clotilda 
 at the back of the Pantheon, occupies the site of the 
 Abbaye de S. Genevilve, founded by Clovis and Clotilde in 
 508. The principal existing remnant of the abbey is the 
 XIII. c. refectory, a great vaulted hall, without columns, 
 partially restored externally in 1886. The cloister was 
 rebuilt, and a XIII. c. chapel of Notre Dame de la Mis^ri- 
 corde, on its south side, destroyed in 1776. 
 
 We now reach the Pantheon, which has divided its 
 existence between being a pagan temple and a christian 
 church dedicated to S. Genevifeve. Clovis built the first 
 church near this site, and dedicated "it to SS. Peter and 
 Paul, and there he, S. Clotilde, the murdered children of 
 Clodomir, and S. Genevifeve were buried. The early church 
 was burnt by the Normans, but restored, and from the X. c. 
 the miracles wrought at the tomb of S. Genevifeve changed its 
 name. In 1148 the church was given to the canons-regular 
 of S. Victor. The shrine of S. Genevifeve, supported on 
 the shoulders of four statues, stood on lofty pillars behind 
 the altar, and thence in time of flood or sickness it was 
 carried forth in procession, and river and pestilence were 
 supposed to recede before it. Much amusement was 
 excited by the tomb erected here to Cardinal de la Roche- 
 foucauld, on which he was represented with an angel carrying 
 his train. The steeple of the church was destroyed by 
 hghtning in 1489. On June 25, 1665, the remains of the 
 philosopher Descartes, brought from Stockholm, were re- 
 ceived in state by the abbot, and buried near the Chapelle 
 
36o PARIS 
 
 S. Genevifeve, though a funeral oration was forbidden by 
 Louis XIV.' When Louis XV. recovered from serious 
 illness at Metz, the canons, who disliked their old gothic 
 church, urged upon him that as his restoration must be due 
 to the prayers of S. Genevifeve he owed her a fashionable 
 grecian church as a reward. The king acquiesced in 
 ordering the new church, though the old one was not pulled 
 down till 1801-7.^ Jacques German Soufflot was em- 
 ployed to design the new edifice, and great difificulties, 
 caused by the discovery of quarries under the building, 
 which had to be filled up, were laboriously removed. The 
 first stone of the new church was laid by Louis XV. in 1 764 ; 
 its original architect, Soufflot, died in 1780, but it was com- 
 pleted under his pupil Rondelet. 
 
 ' La Sainte-Genevieve de M. Soufflot est certainement le plus beau 
 gateau de Savoie qu'on ait jamais fait en pierre.' — Victor Hugo, 
 
 After the death of Mirabeau, the building was conse- 
 crated as the burial-place of illustrious citizens, and ' Aux 
 grands hommes la patrie reconnaissante ' was inscribed in 
 large letters upon the fagade, as it now appears. At the 
 Restoration, however, this inscription was for a time replaced 
 by another saying that Louis XVIIL had restored the 
 church to worship. With the government of July the build- 
 ing became a Pantheon again. From 1851 to 1885 it was 
 again a church, and then was once more taken away from 
 God that it might be given to — Victor Hugo ! 
 
 * Descartes is now commemorated in the name of a neighbouring street, 
 " The capitals of the nave of S. Genevifeve are in the second court of the Beaux 
 Arts. The statues by Germain Pilon, which supported the shrine, are at the 
 Louvre. The statue of Clovis is at S. Denis. The tomb of Cardinal Francois de 
 la Rochefoucauld (1645) is at the Hospice de Femmes Incurables, which was founded 
 by him ; the tomb and effigy of a Chancellor of Notre Dame de Noyon (1350) are at 
 the Beaux Arts ; the gravestone of Descartes is at S. Germain dcs Pr^s. 
 
THE PANTHEON 361 
 
 The Pantheon is open daily from lo to 4. Visitors collect on, the 
 right of the east end till the guardian chooses to show the vaults 
 (caveaux). Twenty is the nominal number allowed, but he will usually 
 wait for a party of sixty to save himself trouble (50 c. ). To ascend the 
 dome an order from the Beaux Arts is required. 
 
 The peristyle and dome of the Pantheon are magnificent. 
 The former is adorned with a relief, by David d'Angers, of 
 France distributing palm-branches to her worthiest children ; 
 Napoleon I. is a portrait. In the portico are groups of S. 
 Genevifeve and Attila, and the Baptism of Clovis. The 
 steps (1887) are covered with wreaths offered to the memory 
 of Victor Hugo. Stately and harmonious, the interior is 
 cold, though colour is being gradually given by frescoes 
 which seem to belong more to the former than the present 
 character of the building, as they represent the story of the 
 saints especially connected with Paris — the childhood 
 miracles, and death of S. Genevieve ; the justice and judg- 
 ment of S. Louis ; the martyrdom of S. Denis (first chapel, 
 left — a terrific picture), &c. Some of these frescoes have 
 much beauty. In the dome, the apotheosis of S. Genevifeve 
 is represented by Gros, in which the shepherd maiden was 
 originally portrayed as receiving the homage of Clovis, 
 Charlemagne, S. Louis, and Napoleon I. After the return 
 of the Bourbons, Napoleon disappeared, and Louis XVIII. 
 took his place. Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Madame 
 Elisabeth, and Louis XVII. appear in the upper sphere of 
 celestial glory. Against the piers are masses of wreaths in 
 honour of the citizens who ' fell in defence of liberty ' in 
 1850. 
 
 The first tomb usually shown in the crypt is (right) that 
 of Victor Hugo. Facing him is Molifere. On the left are 
 Voltaire, with a statue by Houdon, and the architect 
 
362 PARIS 
 
 Soufflot. The tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau are 
 empty, having been pillaged at the E evolution, though the 
 tomb of Rousseau is still inscribed — ' Ici repose Thonime 
 de la nature et de la \€r\\.€.' The tcmb of Voltaire bears 
 the epitaph — ■ 
 
 'Po^te, historien, philosophe, il agrandit I'esprit humain, etl'apprit, 
 qu'il devait Stre libre ; il defendit Calas, Servep, De la Barre, et Mont 
 Bally ; il combattait les ath^es et les fanatiques, il inspira la tolerance, 
 il reclama les droits de Thomme, centre le monstre de la feodalit^.' 
 
 Lagrange the mathematician, Bougainville the great 
 navigator, and Marshal Lannes, lie near. The remains of 
 Mirabeau and Marat, brought hither in triumph, were soon 
 expelled by the fickle Parisians. Caprice exiled Mirabeau, 
 who had been entombed amid the mourning of the city, 
 to a corner of the cemetery of S. Etienne du Mont : ' II 
 n'y a qu'un pas du Capitole k la Roche Tarp^ienne ' had 
 been an observation in one of his last speeches. At the 
 same time a decree was passed that all the monuments in 
 the Pantheon, except those of Voltaire and Rousseau, 
 should be cleared away. 
 
 There is a famous echo in one part of the crypt, shown 
 off in an amusing way by the guardian, who produces a 
 cannonade, a cracking of whips, &c. The great statesmen 
 all lie one above another, in great sarcophagi, exactly alike : 
 many of them, especially the cardinals, seem oddly placed 
 in a pagan temple. 
 
 From the west front of the Pantheon the broad Rue 
 Soufflot, which has the Ecole de Droit at its entrance on the 
 right, crosses (beyond the Rue S. Jacques) the site formerly 
 occupied by the famous convent of the Jacobins. A 
 chapel, of which the University had the patronage, and 
 
3IBLI0THEQUE S. GENEVIEVE 363 
 
 which was dedicated to S. Jacques, being given to the 
 Frferes Precheurs in 122 1, only five years after the confirma- 
 tion of their order, brought them the name of Jacobins. 
 Their celebrity as professors of theology brought pupils and 
 riches to their convent, and, till the middle of the XIV. c. 
 the Dominicans were as much the leaders of thought and 
 education at Paris as the Franciscans were at Oxford ; in 
 the XVIII, c. they paled before the popularity of the 
 Jesuits. The buildings of the Jacobins were confiscated at 
 the Revolution. Almost all the confessors of the kings and 
 queens of France from the time of S. Louis to that of 
 Henri II. were monks of this convent, and perhaps from 
 this reason their church was especially rich in royal monu- 
 ments. The tomb of Charles d'Anjou^ King of Sicily, 
 brother of S. Louis, buried here, was saved, during the 
 Revolution, by Lenoir, and is now at S. Denis. 
 
 On the north of the Place du Pantheon is the Biblio- 
 thkque S. Genevieve, moved from the ancient and admirably 
 suitable cruciform galleries of the abbey, and now occupying 
 the site of the College de Montaigu; founded by Gilles 
 Aiscelin de Montaigu, Archbishop of Rouen (13 14) and 
 Pierre Aiscelin de Montaigu, Bishop of Laon (i 388). At the 
 Revolution the college buildings were turned into a military 
 hospital and barrack ; in 1844. the present uninteresting 
 library was built on their site. Theodore de Bfeze says that • 
 Calvin, after he left the Collfege de la Marche, spent some 
 years here under a Spanish professor. This was the college 
 whose severities, notorious in the XV. -c., are described by 
 the tutor of Gargantua to Grantgousier. 
 
 ' Ne pensez pas que je I'aye mis au college de pouillerye qu'on 
 nomme Montaigu ; mieulx leusse voulu mettre entre les guenaulx de 
 
364 PARIS 
 
 Sainct-Innocent, pour lenorme crualt^ et villenye que j'y ay congneu ; 
 car trop mieulx sont traictez les forcez entre les Maures et Tartares, les 
 meutriers en la prison criminelle, voire certe les chiens de vostremaison, 
 que ne sont ces malauctrus ou diet college. Et, si j'estois roy de Paris, 
 le dyable memporte si je ne mettoys le feu dedans ; et feroys brusler et 
 principal et regens qui endurent cette inhumanite devant leur yeulx 
 estre exerc&. ' — Rabelais, 
 
 ' Gilles d'Aiscelin, le faible archeveque, le juge terrible des Tem- 
 pliers, fonda ce terrible college de Montaigu, la plus pauvre et la plus 
 d^mocratique des maisons universitaires, oil I'esprit et les dents etaient 
 egalement aigus. ... Li s'elevaient sous I'inspiration de la famine 
 les pauvre mattres, qui rendirent illustre le nom de capettss, chetive 
 nourriture, mais ample privileges ; ils ne dependaient, pour la confession, 
 ni de I'ev^que de Paris ni du pape. ' — Michelet, ' Hist, de France. ' 
 
 Behind the Bibliothbque S. Genevifeve, with an entrance 
 beyond it, is the ColUge S. Barbe, probably founded in 
 1460 by Geoffrey Normant. Its most illustrious scholars 
 have been S. Ignatius Loyola and S. Frangois Xavier, who 
 joined Loyola here when he left the College de Beauvais, 
 Closed during the Revolution, this college was reopened in 
 i8oOj under the title of College des Sciences et des Arts. 
 It was enlarged in 1841. Only separated from this by the 
 Rue de Reims, was the College de Reims, founded early in 
 the XV. c. by Guy de Roye, Archbishop of Rheims ; it 
 perished at the Revolution. The College de Fortet, on the 
 other side of the Rue des Sept Voies, was founded, in 
 1391, by Pierre Fortet, canon of Notre Dame, for eight 
 scholars. It was here, in a chamber then inhabited by 
 Boucher, Curd de S. Benolt, that the Ligue had its origm. 
 The buildings of this little college still exist, and possess an 
 hexagonal tower, enclosing a staircase. 
 
 Beyond the Bibliothfeque, at the angle of the Rue des 
 Cholets and Rue Cujas (formerly S. Etienne des Grfes) stood 
 the College des Cholets, founded for poor scholars of the 
 
COLLEGE LOULS LE GRAND 365 
 
 dioceses of Beauvais and Amiens, by the executors of 
 
 Cardinal Jean Cholet, in 1295. Its site, and even that of 
 
 the street, are now swallowed up by buildings of the Lycde 
 
 Louis le Grand. Opposite the college, in the Rue S. 
 
 Etienrie des Grfes, was the church of that name, which, as 
 
 an oratory, dated from the VII. c. S. Frangois de Sales 
 
 frequented it for prayer whilst a student in Paris. It was 
 
 sold and puUed down at the Revolution, but its image of 
 
 Notre Dame de la Bonne D^livrance, which had once 
 
 great celebrity, still exists in the chapel of a convent of S, 
 
 Thomas de Villanueva, in the Rue de Sevres. 
 
 The College Louis le Grand owed its original foundation 
 
 to Guillaume Duprat, Bishop of Clermont, a faithful friend 
 
 to the Jesuits, whom he received, when persecuted, in his 
 
 episcopal residence, and to whom at his death, in 1560, he 
 
 bequeathed the funds necessary for founding the College de 
 
 Clermont. To this, the College de Marmoutier and the 
 
 College de Mans were afterwards added by the favour of 
 
 Louis XIV., in gratitude for which his name was given to the 
 
 united institution, destined to become the favourite place of 
 
 education for sons of illustrious French families. When the 
 
 inscription ' Collegium Claromontanum Societatis Jesu ' 
 
 over the gate was changed to ' Collegium Ludovici Magni,' 
 
 a bold hand wrote— 
 
 ' Sustulit hinc Jesum posuitque insignia regis 
 Impia gens : aliura nescit habere deum. 
 
 At the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1763, the University took 
 possession of their buildings, and made them its principal 
 centre. Twenty-six of the small colleges were then suppressed 
 and united to the College Louis le Grand, only ten colleges 
 altogether being allowed to prolong their existence. At the 
 
366 PARIS 
 
 Revolution the buildings of the College Louis le Grand 
 were used as a prison ; under the first empire it became 
 the Lycde Impdriale, but it recovered its old name at the 
 Restoration. 
 
 A few steps lower down the Rue S. Jacques (on the right) 
 stood the Collfege de Plessis, founded in 1323 b)' Geoffroy 
 de Plessis, Abbd de Marmoutier, and restored by Richelieu. 
 Opposite, occupying the space between the Rue S. Jacques 
 and the Sorbonne, was the Cloitre S. Benoit. Its church, 
 which was of great antiquity, was originally called S. 
 Bacchus, probably from some association with a vintagers' 
 feast. Its later name of S. Benoit le Restourn^ arose from 
 its altar being at the west, its entrance at. the east end ; 
 after Frangois I. altered it to the usual plan it was called 
 S. Benoit le Bientourn6. It contained an immense number 
 of monuments, including that of the architect Claude 
 Perrault, now preserved at the Hotel de Cluny, with the 
 principal portal of the church. No. 2 Rue S. Benoit, 
 recently destroyed, was the house occupied by Desmarteaux, 
 the engraver foi the painter Boucher, and had an entire 
 chamber exquisitely decorated by his hand. 
 
 We now reach the College de France, first of the literary 
 and scientific institutions of the kingdom. It was founded 
 by Francois I. as College Royal,, and afterwards called 
 College des Trois Langues, because the three languages, 
 Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, were taught there. In later 
 times it was superior to the Sorbonne in its teaching of 
 mathematics, medicine, and surgery. Colbert founded pro- 
 fessorships here of Arabic and French law, and history and 
 moral philosophy were afterwards added. There are now 
 twenty-eight professors. The buildings have swallowed up 
 
THE SORBONNE 367 
 
 the College de Trdquier, founded in 1325 by Guillaume 
 de Coetmahon of Tr^quier, and the College de Cambrai, 
 or des Trois EvSques, which dated from the XIII. c. In the 
 court is a statue of G. Bud6 (1540). The principal front is 
 approached from the Rue des Ecoles by a handsome 
 staircase, at the top of which is a statue of Claude Bernard 
 by Guillaume, erected 1875. 
 
 A few steps along the modern Rue des Ecoles, and a 
 turn to the left, will bring us, at the very heart of Academic 
 Paris, to the Sorbonne — 'le Louvre du corps enseignant.' 
 
 The University of the Sorbonne was founded in 1256, 
 by Robert de Sorbonne (or Rathelois), almoner and 
 confessor of S. Louis, who persuaded the king, instead 
 of founding a nunnery on that site, as he intended, to 
 institute a charity — 'ad opus Congregationis pauperum 
 magistrorum, Parisiensis, in theologia studentium.' At first 
 it was only a humble college for sixteen poor theological 
 students, called la pauvre maison, and its professors pauvres 
 maitres (' pauperes magistri ') ; but these soon became 
 celebrated, and the assembly of doctors of the Sorbonne 
 formed a redoutable tribunal, which judged without appeal 
 all theological opinions and works, and did not hesitate to 
 condemn pope and kings. The statutes remained the same 
 in 1790 as in 1290. A chronicler of the time of Henri III. 
 speaks of the Sorbonne as ' thirty or forty pedants, besotted 
 masters of arts.' 
 
 ' Pour 6tre en droit de porter le titre de dodeur de Sorbonne, il 
 fallait avoir fait ses Etudes dans ce college, y avoir, pendant dix ans, 
 argumente, dispute et soutenu divers actes publics ou thises, qu'on dis- 
 tingue en mineure, en majeure, en sabatine, en tentative, eX petite et 
 grande sorionique. C'est dans cette derniire que le pretendant au 
 doctoral doit, sans boire, sans manger, sans quitter la place, soutenir 
 
368 PARIS 
 
 et repousser les attaques de vingt assaillants ou ergoteurs qui se rekyent 
 de demi-heure en denii-heure, le harcelant depuis six heures du matin 
 jusqu'4 sept heurs du soir. 
 
 ' L'habitude de s'escrimer en theologie sur des objets d'une inutile 
 et souvent dangereuse curiosity, ou sur des mati^res qui demandent la 
 plus profonde soumission, n'a pas peu contribue a repandre dans la 
 nation cette humeur querelleuse qui, en retardant la r^gne de la v^rite, 
 a tant de fois trouble la tranquillite publique et engendre tant d'erreurs, 
 pour I'extinction desquelles une politique barbare et maladroite s'est 
 crue en droit de dresser des potences, de creuser des cachots, d'allumer 
 des bdchers, et de faire de la nation la plus douce un peuple de canni- 
 bales. ' — Duvernei, ' Hist, de la Sorbonne. ' 
 
 It was here that the disputes between the Jesuists and 
 Jansenists were carried on. ' Voilk une salle, oil I'on 
 dispute depuis quatre cents ans,' said one of the doctors, as 
 he was shewing the building to Casaubon, 'Eh bien ! 
 qu'est-ce qu'on a d^cidd ? ' he answered. It was of this 
 theatre of religious argument that Pascal said — ' Qu'il dtpit 
 plus s.is6 d'y trouver les moins, que les arguments.' 
 
 ' La Sorbonne avait, de par la scholastique, jurisdiction morale. 
 La Sorbonne for9ait Jean XXII. i r^tracter sa theorie de la vision 
 b^atitique : la Sorbonne d&lara le quinquina I'ecorce scflerate, sur quoi 
 le Parlement faisait au quinquina difense de guSrir. ' — Victor Hugo. 
 
 Whatever, however, may have been the follies of the 
 Sorbonne, it will always possess the honour of having 
 established within its walls the first printing-press known in 
 Paris. 
 
 The collegiate buildings were reconstructed by Jacques 
 Lemercier for Cardinal Richelieu, who was. elected Grand- 
 Master in 1622. He incorporated with the Sorbonne the 
 College Duplessis, founded (in 1322) by Geofifroy Duplessis, 
 Secretary of Phihppe le Long. The little College de Calvi 
 or des Dix-Huit was also swallowed up by the site of the 
 
THE SORBONNE 369 
 
 Church, built 1629-59, 'with a stately dome. It is entered 
 from the principal quadrangle of the college, remarkable for 
 its curious sundials, and is adorned internally with paintings 
 of the Latin Fathers by Philippe de Champaigne. The bare 
 interior is very fine in its proportions. An inscription 
 records the restoration of the church by Napoleon III., 
 ' regnante gloriosissime.' 
 
 ' It is a church of no very great dimensions, being about 1 50 feet in 
 length, and its dome 40 feet in diameter internally. The western 
 fayade has the usual arrangement of two stories, the lower one of 
 Corinthian three-quarter columns, surmounted by pilasters of the same 
 order above, and the additional width of the aisle being made out by a 
 gigantic console. The front of the transept towards the court is better, 
 being ornamented with a portico of detached columns on the lower story, 
 with a great semicircular window above ; and the dome rises so closely 
 behind the wall that the whole composition is extremely pleasing.' — 
 
 The right transept contains the tomb of Richelieu, by 
 Frangois Girardon (1694). The cardinal is represented 
 reclining in death in the arms of Religion, who holds the 
 book he wrote in her defence. A weeping woman is 
 intended for Science, and these two figures are portraits of 
 the cardinal's nieces, the Duchesses de Guyon and de 
 Fronsac. In its time this was regarded as the finest 
 monument of funereal sculpture in the world. Alexandre 
 Lenoir, to whose energy and self-sacrifice Paris owes all the 
 historic sculpture it still preserves, was wounded by a 
 bayonet while making a rampart of hjs body to protect it 
 from the mob in the Revolution, when he succeeded in 
 removing it to the Petits Augustins. 
 
 ' Le Cardinal de Richelieu mourut le 4 d&embre, 1642. "C'etait 
 un grand politique," dit le roi en apprenant sa niort. Et la post6rite a 
 confirme ce jugement. '— ^a&et^, ' Sixrois de France.'' 
 
 B B 
 
37° PARIS 
 
 ' II n'en respectait aucune regie de I'^quite et de la morale. II eo 
 faisait lui-m^me I'aveu : " Quand une fois j'ai pris ma resolution je 
 vais au but; je renverse tout, je fauche tout; ensuite je couvre tout 
 de ma soutane rouge." Bussi-Rabutin dit que sous Richelieu " le roi 
 n'^tait compt^ pour rien. " ' — Dulaure, ' Hist, de Paris sous Louis XIII. ' 
 
 The grave of Richelieu was violated at the Revolution, 
 and his head, which was carried off and paraded through 
 the streets on a pike, was only restored to its resting-place 
 in 1867. Above the tomb is a large fresco representing 
 Theology and all those who have illustrated it. 
 
 In the opposite transept is a monument to the gay 
 Lothario, Mar^chal Due de Richelieu, minister of Louis 
 XVIII., by Ramey. 
 
 A great picture by I/esse represents Robert Sorbonne 
 presenting the pupils in theology to S. Louis. 
 
 ' Au mois d'octobre 1832, il a et^ ecrit au dessus d'une porta, sur la 
 place de Sorbonne; " Eglise Constitutionnelle, de France." Le jour 
 ou pareiUe inscription est venue paisitilement se graver en face de la 
 Sorbonne, celle-ci a cessd de vivre. Son histoire desormais coramencera 
 par une oraison funebre. ' — Antoine de Latour. 
 
 The Boulevard S. Michel, running in front of the Place 
 de la Sorbonne, has swept away the Rue des Magons, 
 where Racine lived for a time, and where Dulaure died. 
 It crosses the site of the College du Tresorier, founded 
 (1268) by Guillaume de Saana, treasurer of the cathedral of 
 Rouen ; and of the College deCluny, founded (in 1269) by 
 Yves de Vergy, Abbot of Cluny. The chapel of this 
 college was a model of architectural loveliness, and has 
 been thought worthy of being compared with the Sainte 
 Chapelle, as it had the same delicacy of sculpture and the 
 same elegance of proportions. It was filled with rich stall- 
 work, and its pavement was composed of gravestones of 
 abbots, two of which — of 1349 and 1360 — were removed, 
 
HOTEL DE CLUNY 371 
 
 with the rose- windows, to the Hotel de CI any, on the 
 destruction of the building in 1834. Close by, where the 
 Rue M, le Prince now falls into the boulevard, was the 
 Porte S. iVTichel (on the wall of Philippe Auguste) destroyed 
 1684. Just beyond, the I-ycee S. Louis now occupies the 
 site of the College d'Harcourt, founded by Raoul d'Har- 
 court in 1280: it was closed at the Revolution, but re- 
 established, under a new name, by Louis XVIII. A little 
 lower down was the College de Justice, at the corner of 
 the Rue de la Harpe, founded (1354) by the executors of 
 Jean de Justice, Canon of Bayeux. Opposite, on a site 
 now covered by the boulevard, were the little colleges of 
 Narbonne (1307), Bayeux (1308), and Secy (1428). The 
 gate of the last is now at the Hotel de Cluny. The College 
 SS. Come et Damien, at the angle of the Rue de la 
 Harpe and Rue de I'Ecole de M^decine, was founded 
 early in the XIII. c. ; its chapel contained the tomb of 
 Nicolas de Bfeze, with an inscription (by his nephew, 
 Theodore de Bfeze, the famous Calvinist) in Greek, Latin, 
 and French. The college, sold at the Revolution, was 
 demolished in 1836, to enlarge the Rue Racine. 
 
 It is now a few steps right, or, if we have evaded these 
 forgotten sites, the Rue de la Sorbonne will lead us down- 
 hill into the Rue de Somvierard, opposite the famous 
 Hdtel de Cluny, which is open daily to the public except on 
 Mondays and fete-days— from 11 to 5 from April i to 
 September 30 ; from 11 to 4 from October i to March 31. 
 
 ' L'hotel de Cluny, qui subsiste encore pour la consolation de I'ar- 
 tiste. ' — Victor Hugo. 
 
 The site of the ancient Roman Baths was bought by 
 
 the abbot Pierre de Chains for the Abbey of Cluny, and 
 
 B B 2 
 
372 
 
 PARIS 
 
 its abbots decided to build a palace there as their town 
 residence. This was begun by Abbot Jean de Bourbon, 
 bastard of John, Duke of Burgundy, and finished by Jacques 
 d'Amboise, Abbot of Jumifeges and Bishop of Clermont 
 ■sixth brother of the minister of Louis XII. Coming seldom 
 to Paris, however, the Abbots of Cluny let their hotel to 
 
 h6tel de cluny (west wing). 
 
 various distinguished personages : thus Mary of England, 
 widow of Louis XII.. lived there for a time after her 
 husband's death, and was married there to Charles Brandon, 
 Duke of Suffolk. Here also James V. of Scotland was 
 married to Madeleine, daughter of Francois I. The Cardinal 
 de Lorraine, his nephew the Due de Guise, and the Due 
 d'Aumale, were living here in 1565. Afterwards the hotel 
 
HOTEL DE CLUNY 
 
 373 
 
 ■was inhabited by actors, then by nuns of Port Royal. In 
 the early part of the XIX. c. the illustrious antiquarian M. 
 de Sommerard bought the hotel and filled it with his beau- 
 
 H^TEL DE CLUKV (EAST WING). 
 
 tiful collection of works of art, and the whole was purchased 
 by the State after his death. 
 
 Approaching from the Rue de Sommerard, by a gate 
 surmounted by the arms of the Abbey of Cluny, we find 
 
374 
 
 PARIS 
 
 the principal building flanked by two wings. A many- 
 sided tower projects from the front, containing a stone 
 staircase, and bearing the rose-medallions and cockle-shells 
 of S. James, in allusion to the builder Jacques d'Amboise. 
 
 h6tel de cluny (chapel). 
 
 Opposite to this is an old well from the manor of Tristan 
 I'Hermite, near Amboise. The building on the west is 
 the most richly decorated portion of the whole. On the 
 north side of the hotel, towards, the garden, are a 
 beautiful bay-window and a vaulted hall called la chapelle 
 
HOTEL DE CLUNY yiS 
 
 basse, the upper floor being supported by a single column, 
 on the capital of which are seen the arms of Jacques 
 d'Amboise and a crowned K (Karolus) for Charles VIII. 
 A gothic flamboyant staircase leads from this hall to the 
 chapel, which is on the first floor. The east wing formerly 
 contained, on its ground floor, the kitchens of the hotel. 
 The great circle traced on the wall on this side is supposed 
 to mark the dimensions of the famous bell of Rouen, known 
 as Georges d'Amboise, which is said to have been cast in 
 the Hotel de Cluny. The open balustrade above the first 
 floor, the chimneys and the windows in the roof, are of 
 marvellous richness and beauty. The interior of the hotel 
 is as interesting as the exterior. The room called La 
 Chambre de la Reine Blanche takes its name from the white 
 weeds of the widowed Queens of France, which Mary of 
 England wore when she inhabited it. The vaulting of the 
 exquisitely graceful chapel rests on a single pillar. 
 
 In this beautiful and harmonious old house all the 
 principal rooms are now occupied by an archaeological 
 museum of the greatest interest. The building, furniture, 
 and ornaments are in perfect keeping. The precious 
 contents are all named and catalogued, but not arranged 
 according to their numbers. As historic objects or 
 memorials of old France we may especially notice when we 
 meet with them — 
 
 56. The original central pillar of the Porte S. Anne of Notre Dame, 
 
 with the figure of S. Marcel. Replaced in the cathedral by 
 
 a copy. 
 86. Porch of the Benedictine cloister at Argenteuil, demolished 
 
 1855. 
 88, 89. XIII. c, fragments from the famous tower of the Com- 
 
 manderie de S. Jean de Latran at Paris, destroyed 1854. 
 
376 PARIS 
 
 107. Column from the church of the College de Cluny, destroyed 
 
 1S59, for the Boulevard S. Michel. 
 135. Principal entrance of the College de Bayeux, destroyed 1859, 
 
 for the Boulevard de Sftastopol. 
 137. Principal portal of the church of S. Benott, destroyed in 
 
 making the Rue des Ecoles. 
 160. Curious tombstone of the XV. c, from the destroyed church 
 
 of S. BenoSt. 
 i6r. A monument with symbols of pilgrimage. From S. Benoit. 
 164, 165. Sculptures from S. Gervais of Paris. XIV. c. 
 
 188. Splendid XV. c. chimney-piece from a house at Le Mans. 
 
 189. Chimney-piece, XV. c, from Le Mans. 
 
 191. Chimney-piece, by Hugues Lallement (1562), from a house at 
 
 Chilons-sur-Marne. 
 
 192. Chimney-piece, XVI. c, byHugues Lallement, from Chalons- 
 
 sur-Marne. 
 
 193. Chimney-piece of XVI. c. , from Troyes. .' 
 
 1 94. Chimney-piece, XVI. c. , from the Rue de la Croix de Fer, at 
 
 Rouen. 
 196-201. Sculptures from the old Louvre. 
 208. Portal of the house of Queen Blanche, Rue &a Foin S. 
 
 Jacques, destroyed 1858, in making the Boulevard S. 
 
 Germain. 
 233. XVII. c. obelisk from the Cimetiere des Innocents. 
 237. Retable of the high-altar of the S. Chapelle of S. Germain, 
 
 built by Pierre de Wuessencourt, in 1259. An exquisite relief 
 
 ofxra.c. 
 
 242-246. Statues from the church of S. Jacques in the Rue S. 
 
 Denis. Attributed to Robert de Launoy. 
 251. The Virgin of the Priory of Arbois, late XV. c. 
 259-261. Sepulchral statues from the chapel of the Chateau of 
 
 Arbois. 
 329. Tomb of an abbess of Montmartre. 
 *345. Tomb of the philanthropist Nicolas Flamel, from the old 
 
 church of S. Jacques de la Boucherie. 1418. 
 *40i. Statue of the emperor Julian, found at Paris. 
 422-426. Tombs of the French Grand- Masters of the Knights of 
 
 S. John of Jerusalem ; brought from Rhodes. 
 428, 429. Figures of monks executed by Claux Sluter, for Philippe 
 
 le Hardi. 
 430, 431. Figures from the tomb of Philippe le Hardi. XIV. c. 
 
h6tEL DE CLUNY 377 
 
 ♦ 
 
 *448. The Three Fates, attributed to Germain Pilon, and supposed 
 to represent Diane de Poitiers and her daughters. From thfe 
 gardens of the Hotel Soicourt, Rue de I'Universite. 
 
 449. Diane de Poitiers as Ariadne. XVI. c. Found in the Loire, 
 
 opposite the Chateau de Chaumont. 
 
 450. Venus and Cupid, by Jean Cousin. XVI. c. 
 
 451. Catherine de Medicis as Juno. A medallion from Anet, prob- 
 
 ably by Germain Pilon. XVI. c. 
 456. =LeSommeil.' XVI. c. 
 
 710. Great retable of abbey of Everborn near Liege. XV. c. 
 764-767. A retable representing the Creed, from the abbey of 
 
 S. Riquier. 1587. 
 ro25. Reliquary from the abbey of S. Yved of Braisne-en-Soissonais. 
 
 Ivory of XII. c. 
 1035. Ivory relief of the marriage of Olho I., Emperor of the East, 
 
 with Theophane, daughter of Romanus II. X. c. 
 1055. Mirror case representing S. Louis and his mother Queen 
 
 Blanche. From the treasury of S. Denis. 
 *lo79. ' Oratoire des Duchesses de Bourgogne.' A set of pictures in 
 
 ivory, of XIV. c. From the Chartreux of Dijon. 
 1080. Id. Ivories of the life of Christ. 
 1152. ' L'insouciance du jeune ige.' An ivory statuette by Du- 
 
 quesnoy. XVII. c. 
 1337, Coffre de Mariage. From the chateau of Loches. 
 1424. Cabinet of time of Henry II. From the abbey of Clairvaux. 
 1679. Mary Magdalen at Marseilles. A painting on wood by King 
 
 Rene of Provence. XV. c. 
 t682. Coronation of Louis XII. A painting on wood. XV. c. 
 1742. Venus and Cupid. Portrait of Diane de Poitiers by /VjV/za- 
 
 ticcio. XVI. c. 
 1 746. Portrait of Marie Gaudin, Dame de la Eourdaisiere, first mis- 
 tress of Francois I., at that time Due de Valois. 
 1761. The head of S. Martha, given by Louis XI. to the church of 
 
 S. Martha at Tarascon. 1478. 
 4498. Reliquary of S. Fausta, in enamel of Limoges. XIII. c. 
 
 From the treasury of Segry, near Issoudun. 
 497^-4987. Golden crowns found at La Fuente de Guarrazar, near 
 
 Toledo. 
 Golden altar of Henry II. (S. Henryf of Germany, given by 
 
 him {c. 1019) to the cathedral of Basle, where it escaped 
 
 destruction in the crypt till 1824, when it was sold for the 
 
378 PARIS 
 
 benefit of the canton. This is perhaps the most precious 
 object in the collection. The medallions represent the car- 
 dinal virtues. In the centre SS. Henry and Cunegunda 
 kneel at the feet of the Saviour ; on the right are SS. 
 Michael and Benedict ; on the left SS. Gabriel and Raphael. 
 Two Latin verses contain a prayer and a mystic explanation 
 of the names of the three angels. 
 5005. ' La rose d'or de Bale.' Given by Clement V. to the Prince 
 Bishop of Basle. XIV. c. 
 
 5015. ReUquary of S. Anne, by Hans Greiff. 1472. 
 
 5016. Silver reliquary from the treasury of Basle. XV. c. 
 5064. Cross of the abbots of Clairvaux in gilt copper. XII. c. 
 
 7386. Tombstone yii<Ca. the epitaph of Anne of Burgundy, Duchess 
 
 of Bedford. XV. c. From the church of the C^lestins. 
 
 7387. Epitaph of Pierre de Ronsard on the death of Charles de 
 
 Boudeville. 1571. 
 
 7398. Coifin-plate of King Louis XIV. From S. Denis. 
 
 7399. Coffin-plate of Marie Adelaide de Savoie, wife of the Due de 
 
 Bourgogne, grandson of Louis XIV. 1 7 12. From S. Dciiis. 
 
 7400. Coffin-plate of Louise Elisabeth de France (Madame I'lnfante, 
 
 eldest daughter of Louis XV.), who -died at Versailles, 1769, 
 From S. Denis. 
 
 7404. Coffin-plate of Henriette Catherine de Joyeuse, Duchesse de 
 
 Montpensier. 1656. From the convent of thS Capucines. 
 
 7405. Gravestone of Louise Henriette de Bourbon, Duchesse 
 
 d'Orleans, daughter of Louis XIV. and Mme de Montespan. 
 7408. Heart (enclosed in lead) of Louis de Luxembourg, Comte de 
 Roussy. 1571. From the Celestins. 
 
 In a modern side-room is an interesting collection of 
 carriages, sledges, sedan chairs, &c., of the XVII. c. and 
 XVIII. c, including — 
 
 6951. Carriage of the Tanara family of Bologna, supposed to have 
 
 belonged to Paul V. (Camillo Borghese, 1603-1621). 
 
 6952. State carriage of a French ambassador to Milan, under 
 
 Louis XV. 
 6961. The little carriage which served as a model for the coronation 
 coach of Louis XV. 
 
 The Roman remains, always known as Palais des 
 
h6tel de cluny 
 
 379 
 
 Thermes, in the garden adjoining the Hotel de Cluny, 
 probably belong to buildings erected a.d. 300, when Paris 
 was a Gallo-Roman town, by Constantius Chlorus. It has 
 been sometimes affirmed that the Emperor JuHan the 
 Apostate was proclaimed and resided here, but it is far 
 more probable that he lived on the island in the Seine, and 
 that these buildings were simply those of magnificent baths. 
 The most perfect part of the baths is a great hall, decided 
 to have been th.t fj-igidarium, which is exceedingly massive 
 and majestic ; of the tepidarium, only the ruined walls 
 remain. 
 
 ' Rien n'avait ete epargri^ pour faire du palais des Thermes une 
 residence vraiment splendide. Un aqueduc allait lui cherctier des eaux 
 saines et pures jusqu'aux sources de Rungis,"c'est-a-dire a trois lieues 
 environ du centre de Paris. Souterrain dans la plus grande partie de 
 son cours, il traversait cependant le vallon d'Arcueil sur une suite de 
 hautes arches, dont le temps a respecte quelques piles, d'une belle struc- 
 ture, appareill^es comme les murailles de la salle des Thermes. ' — Dc 
 Guilheiiny. 
 
 Some columns and a large Corinthian capital, preserved 
 in the Frigidarium, were found in the Parvis Notre Dame, 
 and are interesting as probable remnants of the original 
 basilica of Childebert. Here also are the original XL c. 
 capitals of S. Germain des Prds. In the gardens are pre- 
 served other architectural fragments, such as the portals 
 of the old church of S. Benoit and of the College de 
 Bayeux, three romanesque arches frorh the Abbey of Ar- 
 genteuil, &c. The door which leads to the garden from 
 the court of the hotel comes from the house called Maison 
 de la Reine Blanche (of temp. Henri II.) at the angle of 
 the Rues de Boutebrie and du Foin. 
 
 The Theatre de Cluny occupies the site of the convent 
 
38o PARIS 
 
 of Les Mathurins. A very ancient chapel existed here, in 
 which the body of S. Mathurin was buried and performed 
 miracles. Here the order called 'Religieux de la S. 
 Trinity de la Redemption des Captifs,' founded by S. 
 Giovanni de Matha, found a refuge in the latter part of the 
 
 XIII. c. They were protected by S. Louis, who helped 
 them to erect a convent. This was rebuilt in the XVI. c. 
 by Robert Gaguin, theologian and diplomatist, who was 
 buried in its church, before the high-altar. Before the 
 expulsion of the Jesuits gave the College de Louis le Grand 
 to the University, its chief meetings were held here. It 
 was hither that it summoned its general assemblies ; here 
 that it recognised as king Philippe V., second son of 
 Philippe le Bel, and here that it protested against the bull 
 ' Unigenitus.' The conventual buildings perished in the 
 Revolution. In the Rue Mathurin the Librairie Delalain 
 was the house of Catinat. Just opposite the Palais des 
 Thermes was the old hotel of the Comtes d'Harcourt, 
 destroyed in the XVII. c. 
 
 Along the side of the opposite Rue de Routebrie ran the 
 buildings of the College de Maitre Gervais, founded in the 
 
 XIV. c. (by a canon of Bayeux and Paris, who was physician 
 to Charles le Sage), as a college of astrology and medicine. 
 
 The Rue de Boutebrie leads to the fine church of S. 
 Sevenn, one of the best gothic buildings in Paris, said to 
 occupy the site of a hermitage where S. Sdverin lived in the 
 VI. c, under Childebert I. The oratory on the site of the 
 hermitage was sacked by the Normans. It was rebuilt in 
 the XL c. as ' Ecclesia Sancti Severi Solitarii.' But to the 
 worship of the sainted hermit the people afterwards united 
 that of another S. Severin, Bishop of Agaune, who gave 
 
S. SjkVERlN 381 
 
 the monastic habit to S. Cloud, and who miraculously cured 
 King Clovis by laying his chasuble upon him. In former 
 days this church was held in great estimation. One of its 
 chapels was dedicated to S. Martin, especially invoked by 
 travellers, and its door was covered with horseshoes de- 
 posited there for good luck ; whilst travellers about to ride 
 a great distance would brand their horses' hoofs with the 
 church-key, made red hot for the purpose. At Pentecost a 
 great flight of pigeons used to be sent down during mass 
 through holes in the vaulting, to typify the descent of the 
 Holy Spirit. The principal porch had the figure of a lion 
 on either side, seated between which the magistrates of the 
 town administered justice : whence many judgments end 
 with ' donne entre les deux lions.' ' 
 
 The church has been frequently enlarged and modernised, 
 but the three western compartments of the nave, the triforium 
 of the fourth, with the tower, portal, and lower part of the 
 fa5ade, are of 1210 ; the rest of the nave, aisles, and choir 
 probably of 1347 ; the apse and its chapels, of 1489. Tha 
 early XIII. c. portal of the fagade formerly belonged to S. 
 Pierre aux Bosufs in the Cit^, and was brought here on the 
 destruction of that church in 1837 ; but the bas-relief of the 
 tympanum is modern. The portal preserves its XVII. c. 
 doors, adorned with medallions of SS. Peter and Paul. 
 There are double aisles, besides the side chapels ; behind 
 the high-altar is a twisted column. South of the choir are 
 remains of a XV. c. cloister, the only one in Paris except 
 that of les Billettes. To the right of th e chevet is the XVII. c. 
 chapel of Notre Dame d'Espdrance, containing a ' miracu- 
 lous ' Virgin. The other chapels contain an immense 
 
 * Leb(Euf. 
 
382 PARIS 
 
 number of pictures of the French school. The baldacchino 
 was erected from designs of Lebrun, at the expense of 
 Mile de Montpensier. The ancient rood-loft, erected 
 (in 1414). by a bequest of Antoine de Compaigne and his 
 wife Oudette, was destroyed in the XVII. c. With three 
 unimportant exceptions all the ancient monuments have 
 perished, but there is a good deal of XV. c. and XVI. c. 
 stained glass. 
 
 ' L'eglise de S. Severin est une des premieres de Paris oti I'on ait 
 vu des orgues ; il y en eut des le rigne du roi Jean, mais c'etoitun petit 
 buffet ; aussi l'eglise n'etoit-elle alors ni si longue ni si large. J'ai lu 
 dans un extrait de necrologe manuscrit de cette eglise, que, Pan 1358, 
 le lundi apris lAscension, maitre Reynaud de Douy, kolier en thiologie 
 a Paris et gouverneur des grandes holes de la paroisse S. Shjerin^ donna 
 h riglise une bonne orgues et Men ordonnies. Celles que Ton a vu sub- 
 sister jusqu'en 1747, adossees a la tour de l'eglise, n'avoient ^te faites 
 qu'en 1512,' — Lebi£uf, ^Hist. de la ville et du dioche de Paris, ^ 
 
 It was publicly, in the churchyard of S. Severin, that 
 the first operation for stone took place, in January 1474, on 
 the person of a soldier, condemned to be hanged for theft, 
 and who, when it succeeded, was pardoned and rewarded.^ 
 The dissection of a dead body was considered sacrilegious 
 till the time of Frangois I. 
 
 Over the gate which led from the Cimetifere de S. 
 Severin to the Rue de la Parcheminerie was inscribed — 
 
 ' Passant, penses-tu passer par ce passage, 
 
 Oil, pensant, j'ai passe ? 
 Si tu n'y penses pas, passant, tu n'es pas sage ; 
 Car en n'y pensant pas, tu te verras pass^.' '^ 
 
 ' Alfred de Musset est ne le 11 deceinbre, 1810, au centre du vieux 
 Paris, pr^s de I'hotel de Cluny, dans une maison qui porte encore le 
 No. 33 de la rue des Noyers. Au No. 37 de la meme rue demeuraient 
 le grandp^re Desherbiers, et une grand' tante -propri^taire d'un jardin 
 qui s'etendait jusqu'au pied de la vieille eglise de Saint-Jean de Latran, 
 ' Chroniqite de Louis XI. * Dulaure, Hist, de Paris. 
 
QUAI DES AUCUSTINS 3S3 
 
 aujourd'hui detruite. Tous les petits-neveux de Mme Denoux ont fait 
 leurs premiers pas dans ce isiidim.'—I'aul de Mussel. 
 
 A few steps west from the Hotel de Cluny bring us to 
 the modern Place S. Michel, with a great fountain of i860, 
 decorated with a group of S. Michael and the Dragon, by 
 Duret. The site was once of interest as being that (at the 
 angle of the Rue de la Harpe and Rue S. Andrd des Arts) 
 where a fountain and mutilated statue marked the treachery 
 of P^rinet le Clerc, who opened here the Porte S. Germain 
 (afterwards Porte de Buci) in 1418 to the Burgundians, 
 an act which led to the murder of the Comte d'Armagnac 
 at the Conciergerie, and a general massacre of his adherents. 
 It was in the Rue de la Harpe that Mme Roland was 
 living at the time of her arrest. The Boulevard S. Michel 
 now swallows up the greater part of the Rue de la Harpe 
 and also of the Rue d'Enfer. The Flace, Boulevard, and 
 Pont S. Michel take their name from a destroyed church 
 on the island. On the centre of the bridge stood an eques- 
 trian statue of Louis XIII., destroyed in the Revolution. 
 
 The Quai des Augustins, which stretches along the bank 
 of the Seine, west from the Place S. Michel, commemorates 
 a famous convent. The ' Hermits of S. Augustine,' as they 
 were officially called, had their first convent in Paris in a 
 street off the Rue Montmartre, now called Rue des Vieux 
 Augustins ; their second convent was near the Porte S. 
 Victor. This was their third, and here, August 10, 1652, 
 occurred that combat between the monks and the royal 
 archers which made La Fontaine run across the Pont Neuf, 
 exclaiming ' Je vais voir tuer les Augustins ! ' In the 
 church, built by Charles V., Henri III. instituted the Order 
 of the S. Esprit ; the child Louis XIII. was proclaimed King, 
 
384 
 
 PARIS 
 
 and Marie de Medicis Regent ; and many French ecclesi- 
 astical assemblies were held. The historian Philippe de 
 Commines and his wife,' and the XVI. c. poet Remi 
 Belleau, were amongst those buried there. The church was 
 
 HOTEL D HEKCULE. 
 
 pulled down in the Revolution. In the Rue des Grands 
 Augustins, Nos. 3, 5, and 7 belong to the Hotel d'Hercuk, 
 inhabited by Frangois I. in his youth, and given by him, in 
 the first year of his reign, to the Chancellor Duprat, by 
 whom it was greatly enlarged and embellished. 
 
 ' Their statues are now in the Louvre. 
 
RUE HAUTEFEUILLE 385 
 
 Under Francois I. the Hotel d'Hercule communicated 
 with a hotel of the Duchesse d'Etampes, in the Rue de 
 I'Hirondelle, which was richly decorated with the sala- 
 manders of Fran5ois and other emblems. ' De toutes ses 
 devises,' says Sauval, 'qu'on voyoit il n'y a pas encore 
 long-tems, je n'ai pu me ressouvenir que de celle ci ; 
 c'estoit un coeur enflammd, place entre un alpha at un 
 omega, pour dire appardment, il brulera toujours.i The 
 house was still well preserved when Sauval saw it. ' Les 
 murs,' he says in his Galanteries des rois de France, 'sont 
 couverts de tant d'ornements et si finis, qu'il paroit bien. 
 que c'estoit un petit palais d'amour, ou la raaiso-n des menus 
 plaisirs de Frangois I.' 
 
 The Rue S. Andrd des Arts (which turns south-west 
 from the Place S. Michel) commem.orates the church of that 
 name, a beautiful gothic building, with a renaissance facade, 
 demolished at the Revolution. It contained a famous tomb 
 by Auguier to the Thou family. Of later monuments, 
 those of Andrd Duchesne — 'pfere de I'histoire de France,' 
 the engraver Robert Nanteuil, and the poet Houdart de la 
 Motte, were remarkable. On the right and left of the altar 
 were the tombs of the Prince de Conti, by Nicolas Coustou 
 (now at Versailles), and of his mother, by Girardon 
 (destroyed in the Revolution). The little Collfege d'Autun, 
 on the right of the street, was founded for fifteen scholars (in 
 1327) by Cardinal Pierre Bertrand, Bishop of Autun ; it was 
 pulled down in the Revolution. At the same time perished 
 the College de Boissi, behind the church, which was founded 
 (in 1358) by Etienne Vid^, of Boissi le Sec. 
 
 From the Place S. Andrd des Arts, the Rue HautefeuiUe 
 runs south, and is perhaps in its domestic architecture the 
 
 c c 
 
386 
 
 PARIS 
 
 most interesting and the best worth preserving of all 
 Parisian streets. The name tfautefeuille comes from a 
 fortress — altuvi folium, the lofty dwelling — which existed 
 close to this in very early times. No. 5 has an admirable 
 
 
 H&TKL DE FECAMP. 
 
 round tourelle belonging to the Hdtel de Fecamp. No. 9 
 is a very curious house with turrets. No. 21 has a well- 
 proportioned octangular tourelle. The Rue Hautefeuille 
 crosses the Rue Serjiente, in which, to the east, stood the 
 College de Tours, which was swallowed up in the College 
 
COLLEGE DE MLGNON 
 
 387 
 
 Louis le Grand. It was founded (in 1375) by Etienne de 
 Bourgueil, Archbishop of Tours. To the west, a sculptured 
 glory on a building, at the angle of the Rue Mignon, is a 
 still existing relic (the end of the chapel) of the College de 
 
 z:.m^k^^^^_ z. 
 
 IN THE RUE HAUTEFEUILLE. 
 
 Mignon (afterwards Grandmont), founded in the XIV. c. 
 by Jean Mignon, Archdeacon of Chartres, and sold at the 
 Revolution. It was at one time occupied by the archives 
 of the Royal Treasury. A quaint bit of Old Paris may be 
 seen by following the Rue du Jardinet from the Rue 
 
388 
 
 PARIS 
 
 Serpente to the Cour de Rohan, where part of the wall and 
 the base of a tower of Philippe Auguste still exist. Hence, 
 a gateway opens into the Cour de Commerce, by which we 
 may reach the Rue de FAncienne Com^die. 
 
 The Rue Hautefeuille falls into the Rue de rEcoIe 
 de Mededne, just opposite the. interesting remains of the 
 famous Convent of the Cordeliers, now used to contain the 
 surgical MusSe Dupuytren. The convent took its popular 
 name from the waist-cord of its Franciscan or Minorite 
 
LES CORDELIERS 
 
 i'i9 
 
 friars, and was supposed to possess the actual ' cordon de 
 S. rran5ois.' Its church was built by S, Louis, with the 
 fine levied upon Enguerrand de Coucy, for having punished 
 with death three young men who were poaching on his 
 land. The heart of Jeanne d'Evreux, wife of Philippe le 
 
 
 PORTAL, ^CDLE DE DESSIM. 
 
 Bel, was deposited here, by her desire. Other important 
 monuments in the church were those of Pio, Prince 
 di Carpi, and of Alexandre d' Ales .or Hales, 'la fieur 
 des philosophes.' It was here that the Duchesse de 
 Nemours, a furious partisan of the Ligue, mounted the 
 
390 PARIS 
 
 steps of the altar, after the death of Henri III., and harangued 
 the people, pouring forth a torrent of abuse against the 
 murdered tyrant. The theological lectures of the convent 
 were celebrated, especially those of Alexandre Hales, 'le 
 docteur irrefragable ' ; S. Buenaventura, ' le docteur sdra- 
 phique'; and Duns Scotus, 'le docteur subtil.' Marie 
 Therese d'Autriche added a large chapel to the church in 
 honour of S. Elizabeth of Hungary, in 1672. 
 
 At the Revolution the confiscated convent became the 
 place where Camille Desmoulins founded the club of the 
 Cordeliers, of which he and Danton were the principal 
 orators ; and it was the tocsin of the Cordeliers which gave 
 the signal for the attack upon the Tuileries, on August 10, 
 1792. It was in the church of the Cordeliers that Marat 
 lay in state, upon a catafalque, in his bloody shirt ; and in 
 the little court close by, he was buried at midnight by 
 torchlight, to rest (till his removal to the Pantheon) in the 
 very place where he had harangued and excited the people 
 in life. Every Sunday pilgrimages were organised hither to 
 the grave of Marat. 
 
 Part of the site of the convent is now occupied by the 
 Ecole de Dessin, founded by Bachelier in 1767, and entered 
 from the Rue de I'Ecole de Mddecine by a portal of great 
 beauty, richly ornamented with caryatides in relief, by 
 Constant Defeux. Its buildings are amongst the best speci- 
 mens of XVII. c. architecture in Paris. 
 
 The Ecole de Mkdecine, on the other side of the street, 
 swallows up the site of the College de Dainville, founded (in 
 1380) by Michel de Dainville, Archdeacon of Arras ; of the 
 little College des Premontrds ; and of the once famous 
 Collfege de Bourgogne, founded by Jeanne de Bourgogne, 
 
LECOLE DE MEDECINE 
 
 391 
 
 widow of Philippe le Long, for twenty Biirgundian scholars to 
 come to Paris to study logic and natural philosophy. Of the 
 education there, contemporary memoirs allow us to judge. 
 
 ' Je fus mis au college de Bourgogne des I'an 1542, en la troisieme 
 classe ; puLs je fis un an peu moins de la premiere. Je trouve que ces 
 
 IK THE RUE DE L'^COLE DE MEDECINE. 
 
 dix-huit mois de college me firent assez bien. J'appris a r^peter, dis- 
 puter et haranguer en public ; pris connoissance d'honnetes enfans ; 
 appris la vie frugale de la scholarite et b. regler mes heures, tellement 
 que sortant de \k je recitai en public plusieurs vers latins et deux mille 
 vers grecs, fails selon I'age ; recitai Homere par cceur d'un bout k 
 I'autre. Qui fut cause qu'apres cela j 'etois bien vu par les premiers 
 hommes du temps.' — Henri de Mesmes, ' Miinoires.' 
 
392 PARIS 
 
 The College de Bourgogne was comprised in the colleges 
 united to the College Louis le Grand. Its buildings were 
 given to the School of Surgery, and were pulled down, and 
 the handsome buildings of the Ecole de Mddecine (formerly 
 de Chirurgie) founded by Louis XV. (1769) erected in their 
 place. 
 
 An admirable tourelle, at the corner of the Rue Larrey, 
 has perished in recent times. At No. 20 Rue de I'Ecole de 
 M^decine (recently destroyed) was the house where, in a 
 back room, Charlotte Corday stabbed Marat — 'I'ami du 
 peuple ' — in his bath, July 13, 1793. 
 
 ' Charlotte evita d'arreter son regard sur lui, de peur de trahit; 
 I'horreur de son Sme. Debout, les yeux baisses, les mains pendaiites 
 aupr^s de la baignoire, elle attende que Marat I'interroge sur la situation 
 de la Normandie. Elle repond bri^vement, en donnant i ses reponses 
 le sens et le couleur propres a flatter les dispositions pr^sumees da 
 demagogue. II lui demande ensuite les noms des deputes rtfugies a 
 Caen. Elle, les lui dicte. II les note ; puis, quand il a fini d'ecrire ces 
 noms J " C'est bien ! " dit-il de I'accent d'un homme sflr de sa ven- 
 geance ; " avant huit jours ils iront tous k la guillotine ! " 
 
 ' A ces mots, comme si I'slme de Charlotte eut attendu un dernier 
 forfait pour se resoudre \ frapper le coup, elle tire de son sein le couteau, 
 et It plonge avec une force surnaturelle jusqu'au manche dans le coeur 
 de Marat. Charlotte retire du m6me mouvement le couteau ensan- 
 glante du corps de la victime et le laisse glisser k ses pieds. " A moi, 
 ma chfere amie, a moi ! " s'ecrie Marat, et il expire sous le coup.' — 
 Lamar tine, 'Hist, des Girondi7is.'* 
 
 The illustration represents the old houses which adjoined 
 ithat of Marat — now destroyed. 
 
 The Rue de I'Ecole de M^decine is henceforth swallowed 
 :up in the Boulevard S. Germain, on the right of which is 
 the Rue de tAncienne Comkdie, which once contained the 
 Theatre Fran^ais ; and opposite it, the Cafd Procope, the 
 <resort of Vakaire and all the literary celebrities of his time. 
 
393 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 THE FAUBOURG S. GERMAIN: 
 
 THE Pont Royal, opposite the site of the Tuileries, 
 leads us to the Quai Voltaire, so called because Vol- 
 taire died in the hotel of his friend the Marquis de Villette, 
 at the angle of the quai and the Rue de Beaune. The 
 house was afterwards closed till the empire, a circumstance 
 which was taken advantage of in using it as a hiding-place 
 for priests. Beyond the Quai Voltaire is the Quai Mala- 
 quais ; both are lined with bookstalls, where literary trea- 
 sures may often be discovered. No. 1 7, with a great court- 
 yard opening upon the Quai Malaquais, is the XVIII. c. 
 Hotel de Bouillon or de Juigne, occupied under the empire 
 by the Ministfere de Police. 
 
 From the Pont des S. Peres, which crosses the Seine 
 opposite the Jiue des S Peres, is one of ;the best of the Paris 
 river views. 
 
 ' D'abord, au premier plan, cYtalt le port S. Nicolas, les cabines 
 basses des bureaux de la navigation, la grandeberge pavee qui descend, 
 encombree de tas de sable, de tonneaux et de sacs, bord^e d'une file de 
 peniches encore pleines, oil grouillait un peuple de debardeurs, que 
 dominait le bras gigantesque d'une grue de fonte ; tandis que de I'autre 
 cote de I'eau, un bain froid, egayi par les eclats des derniers baigneurs 
 
394 PARIS 
 
 de la saison, laissait flotter au vent les drapeaux de toile grise qui lui 
 servaient de toiture. Puis, au milieu, la Seine vide montait, verdatre, 
 avec des perils flots dansants, fouett& de blanc, de bleu et de rose. Et 
 le pont des Arts ^tablissait un second plan, trfes-haut sur ses charpentes 
 de fer, d'une l^gferete de dentelle noire, anime du perpetuel va-et-vient 
 des pietons, une chevauch^e de fourmis, sur la mince ligne de son 
 tablier. En dessous, la Seine continuait, au loin ; on voyait les vieilles 
 arches du Pont-Neuf, bruni de la rouille des pierres ; une trouee 
 s'ouvrait k gauche, jusqu'k I'ile S. Louis, une fuite de miroir d'un 
 raccourci aveuglant ; et I'autre bras I'ouvrait court, I'&luse de la 
 Monnaie semblait boucher la vue de sa barre d'ecume. Le long du 
 Pont-Neuf, de grands omnibus jaunes, des tapissi^res bariolees, de- 
 filaient avec une regularite m&anique de jouets d'enfant. Tout le fond 
 s'encadrait 1^, dans les perspectives des deux rives ; sur la rive droite, 
 les maisons des quais, \ demi cach^es par un bouquet de grands arbres, 
 d'ou emergeaient, a I'horizon, une enooignure de I'HStel de Ville et le 
 clocher carr^ de S. Gervais, perdus dans une confusion de faubourg ; 
 sur la rive gauche, une aile de Flnstitut, la fajade plate de la Monnaie, 
 des arbres encore, en enfilade. • Mais ce qui tenait le centre de I'ira- 
 niense tableau, ce qui montait du fleuve, se haussait, occupait le ciel, 
 c'etait la Cit6, cette proue de I'antique vaisseau, eternellement doree 
 par le couchant. En bas, les peupliers du terre-plein verdissaient en 
 une masse puissante, cachant la statue. Plus haut, le soleil opposait 
 les deux faces, iteignant dans I'ombre des maisons grises du quai de 
 I'Horloge, eclairant d'une fiamb^e les maisons vermeilles du quai des 
 Orf^vres, des files de maisons irr^gulieres, si nettes, que I'oeil en dis- 
 tinguait les moindres details, les boutiques, les enseignes, jusqu'aux 
 rideaux des fenetres. Plus haut, parmi la dentelure des chemin^es, 
 derriere I'echiquier oblique des petits toits, les poivri^res du Palais et 
 les combles de la Prefecture etendaient des nappes d'ardoises, coupees 
 d'une colossale afEche blanche, peinte sur un mur, dont les lettres geantes, 
 vuesde tout Paris, ^taientcomme I'efflorescence de la fievre moderne au 
 front de la ville. Plus haut, plus haut encore, par dessus les tours 
 jumelles de Notre-Dame, d'un ton de vieil or, deux fleches s'elanjaient, 
 en arriere la fltehe de la cathedrale, sur la gauche la fleche de la S. 
 Chapelle, d'une Elegance si fine, qu'elles semblaient fr^mir a la brise, 
 hautaine mature du vaisseau seculaire, plongeant dans la clart^, en plein 
 ciel. '—Zola, ' L' (Euvre. ' 
 
 Close to the entrance of the Rue Bonaparte (formerly 
 Pot-de-Fer), on the right of the street, is the £cok des Beaux- 
 
tCOLE DES BE A UX-ARTS 395 
 
 Arts (open daily from 10 to 4, except Sundays and holidays, 
 when it opens at 12), occupying the site of the Couvent des 
 Petits Augustins, founded by Marguerite de Valois,' first 
 and divorced wife of Henri IV. (the ' grosse Margot ' of her 
 brother, Charles IX.). One of her eccentric ideas was to 
 have a Chapelh des Louanges, served by fourteen friars, who 
 were never to leave the convent, and never to cease singing, 
 two and two at a time. 
 
 ' La reine Marguerite avoit fait venir d& Augiistins d&hauss^s 
 (Petits-Peres) auxquels elle donna line maison, six arpents de terrain et 
 six mille livres de rente perpetuelle, k condjtion qu'ils chanteroient 
 des cantiques et les louanges de Dieu sur des airs qui seroient fails 
 par son ordre. Ces peres, assurement, n'aimoient pas la musique, ils 
 s'obstinerent i ne vouloir que psalmodier ; elle les chassa, et mit 
 a leur place des Augustins chausses, qui se sont assez bien arrondis 
 depuis, et qui ont donne le nom \ la 'c\i&.'' -—Saint Foix, ' Ess. hist, 
 sur Paris,' 1776. 
 
 The famous Duke of Lauzun died at the Petits Augus- 
 tins in December 1723, at above ninety, having married 
 Mile de Lorges after the death of La Grande Mademoiselle. 
 During the Revolution the convent was used as a Musee 
 des Monuments fran^ais, and more than twelve hundred 
 pieces of sculpture from churches, palaces, and convents, 
 were saved from destruction and collected here by the 
 energy and care of Alexandre Lenoir, The admiration 
 excited by the collection thus formed laid the foundation of 
 a revived interest throughout France in the art of the middle 
 ages, so that the Musde des Petits Augustins may be con- 
 sidered to have done a great work, though it was suppressed 
 in 1816. A few — too few — of its precious contents were then 
 
 ^ The Queen intended her foundation to be called Couvent de Jacob, a name 
 which has passed to a neighbouring street. She bequeathed her heart to the con- 
 vent, to be preserved in its chapel. 
 
396 PARIS 
 
 restored to their proper sites ; most of those unclaimed were 
 transferred to the Louvre, Versailles, or S. Denis : several 
 remain here. Nothing but the convent chapel and an 
 oratory called after Marguerite de Valois remains of the 
 conventual buildings. The present magnificent edifice was 
 begun under Louis XVIIL and finished under Louis Philippe. 
 In the midst of the first court is a Corinthian column sur- 
 mounted by a figure of Abundance, in the style of Germain 
 Pilon. To the left are a number of XV. c. sculptures from 
 the Hotel de la Tremouille in the Rue des Bourdonnais, 
 destroyed 1841. On the right, is the convent chapel, its 
 portal replaced by that of the inner court of the Chateau 
 d'Anet — a beautiful work of Jean Goujon and Philibert 
 Delorme. Dividing the first from the second court is 
 a facade from the chateau of Cardinal d'Amboise at 
 Gaillon. 
 
 Amongst the fragments in the second court are symbo- 
 lical sculptures executed for the chapel of Philippe de 
 Commines at the Grands Augustins ; capitals from the old 
 church of S. Genevifeve (XL c.) ; incised tombs, greatly in- 
 jured by exposure to the weather ; and two porticoes (at the 
 sides) from Gaillon. In the centre is the graceful shallow 
 fountain ordered for the cloister of S. Denis by the Abbot 
 Hugues (XII. c). 
 
 The amphitheatre is adorned with the Hemicycle of 
 Paul Delaroche. In the Cour du M&rier is a monument to 
 Henri Regnault, the sculptor, killed in the defence of Paris, 
 1870-71. 
 
 The enlarging of the Beaux Arts towards the Quai Mala- 
 quais has destroyed the Hotel de Cr^qui or Mazarin, where 
 Fouch^ and Savary had their secret police office. In the 
 
niNSTJTUT DE FRANCE 397 
 
 next house (also destroyed now) Henrietta Maria once lived, 
 and afterwards Marie Mancini, Duchesse de Bouillon : it 
 had paintings by Lebrun. 
 
 The Rue Visconti, almost opposite the Beaux Arts (now 
 called after the famous architect), was, as Rue des Marais, 
 the great centre of the Huguenots. D'Aubign^ says that 
 it used to be called 'le petit Genbve.' No 19 in this 
 street is the Hdtel des Ranes, on the site of the Petit Prd 
 aux Clercs, and was the house in which Racine died, 
 April 22, 1699. Adrienne Lecouvreur lived there in 1730, 
 and it was also inhabited by Champmeld and Hippolyte 
 Clairon. 
 
 In the Rue Jacob, behind the Beaux Arts, is (No. 47) 
 the Hopital de la Charitk, founded by Marie de Medicis, 
 who established the brothers of S. Jean de Dieu (Benfratelli) 
 in Paris in 1602. The buildings mostly date from 1606-1637. 
 Antoine, architect of La Monnaie, added a wing at the end 
 of the last century. The ancient chapel of the convent, now 
 occupied by the Acaddmie de Medecine, has a fagade on 
 the Rue des S. Pferes. 
 
 The part of the Rue Jacob east of the Rue Bonaparte, 
 formerly Rue du Colombier, contained, on its south side, 
 the ancient chapel of S. Martin le Vieux (or des Orges), and 
 afterwards, on the same site, a house with a very picturesque 
 tourelle, destroyed 1850.' 
 
 Returning to the Quai, and passing an admirable Statue 
 of Voltaire, we reach the Institut de France, held in a palace 
 built On the site of the Hotel de Nesle, in pursuance of the 
 will of Cardinal Mazarin, who left a fortune to build a college 
 for sixty gentlemen of Pignerol, the States of the Church, 
 
 ^ See Adolphe Bertz, Top. hist, du vieux Paris, 
 
398 ' PARTS 
 
 Alsace, Flanders, and Roussillon. The works, begun from 
 designs of Levau, were finished in 1662, and the new college 
 received the official name of Collbge Mazarin, but the public 
 called it College des Quatre Nations. Cardinal Mazarin was 
 buried in its church, where his niece, the Duchesse Mazarin, 
 too famous during the reign of Charles II., dying in England 
 in 1699, was buried by his side, after her body had been 
 carried about for two years by her husband, from whom 
 she had been separated in life since her twenty-fourth year.^ 
 
 Under the Revolution the buildings of the college were 
 used as a prison. The Institute was installed there on October 
 26, 1795, having been originally designed by Colbert, though 
 only founded by the National Convention to replace the 
 academies it had destroyed. The five academies united 
 here are now : i. Acaddmie Frangaise ; 2. Acaddmie des In- 
 scriptions et Belles-Lettres ; 3. Acaddmie des Sciences ; 4. 
 Academic des Beaux-Arts ; 5. Acaddmie des Sciences 
 Morales et Politiques. The library and collections of the 
 Institute are common to all the academies. A general 
 meeting for the distribution of prizes is held every year on 
 October 25. 
 
 The Academie Frangaise was founded by Richelieu (1635). 
 It has never numbered more than forty members. Their 
 object is supposed to be the perfecting of the French lan- 
 guage and the advancement of literature. The expression, 
 ' Couronnd par 1' Academic Fran5aise ' means that the author 
 has received one of the prizes of the French Academy. 
 The reputation of the Academy has, however, been by no 
 means untarnished. It was the Academy of flatterers which, 
 in the time of Louis XIV., proposed as a subject, ' Laquelle 
 
 * S. Simon. 
 
LINSTITUT DE FRANCE 
 
 399 
 
 des vertus du roi est la plus digne dfe I'admiration ? ' It 
 was the Academy which rejected both Racine and Boileau, 
 till the king insisted on their admission ; which never ad- 
 mitted Molifere ; which never invited Helvetius, Rousseau, 
 Diderot, Raynal ; and which expelled the patriot S. Pierre. 
 
 ' Des que j'eus I'air d'un homme heureux, tous mes confreres, les 
 beaux esprits de Paris, se dechain^rent contra moi avec toute I'aniinosite 
 et racharnement qu'ils devaient avoir contre quelqu'un k qui on donnait 
 les recompenses qu'il meritait.' — Voltaire. 
 
 The Palais de rinsiitut was begun from plans of Levau 
 in 1 66 1. Its front is a concave semicircle, ending in 
 pavilions, and, in the centre, the domed church, which 
 contained the tomb of Mazarin, the masterpiece of Coysevox, 
 now in the Louvre. This is now the hall of the General 
 Assembly of the different sections of the Institute. 
 
 Mazarin collected books from his earliest years, and, 
 after he became Prime Minister, opened every Thursday 
 his library of 45,000 volumes to the pubhc. But, in 165 1, 
 during the troubles of the Fronde, Parliament ordered the 
 Cardinal's books to be sold, and his hbrary was entirely 
 dispersed. When, only two years after, Mazarin returned 
 more powerful than ever, he left no effort untried to recover 
 his books, which was rendered easier because their bindings 
 bore his arms. By 1660 the library was recovered, and in the 
 following year he bestowed it upon his foundation of the Col- 
 lege des Quatre Nations. At the Revolution, the collection 
 was increased by 50,000 books seized from religious houses 
 or private collections, including those of ' Louis Capet, Veuve 
 Capet, Adelaide Capet,' &c. The Library is open to the 
 public daily from 10 to 5, except on Sundays and holidays. 
 The vacation is from July 15 to September i. 
 
40O PARIS 
 
 The BiblioMque Mazarine is entered from the left of the 
 courtyard. In the anteroom is a copper globe executed by 
 the brothers Bergwin for Louis XVI. and at which he is 
 believed to have "worked with his own hands. The libralry 
 itself is a long chamber, full of dignity and repose. The 
 bookshelves are divided by pillars, with busts in front : that 
 of Mazarin stands at the end. In the centre are cases full 
 of books attractive from rare bindings or autographs of 
 previous possessors, and a collection of models of Pelasgic 
 buiMings very interesting to those who have travelled in 
 Greece and Italy. 
 
 The dome of the Institute is always a great feature in 
 views of Paris, but especially at sunset. 
 
 ' Dans aucune futaie s^culaire, sur aucune route de montagne, par 
 les prairies d'aucune plaine, il n'y aura jamais des fins de jour aussi 
 triomphales que derri^re la coupole de I'lnstitut. C'sst Paris qui 
 s'endort dans sa gloire. ' — Zola, ' L'CEu-ure.^ 
 
 The Tour de Nesle (Nigella) which formerly occupied 
 the site of the Institution, was a lofty round tower with 
 a loftier tourelle, containing a winding staircase, attached 
 to it. It corresponded with another tower on the other 
 side of the river, which stood at some distance from 
 the Louvre, at the angle of the city walls, and was 
 known as 'la Tour qui fait le coin.' Sometimes, for 
 the protection of the river, a chain was stretched from 
 one tower to the other. The Tour de Nesle, enclosed 
 in the walls of Philippe Auguste, was part of a hotel 
 which belonged to Amauri de Nesle, who sold it to 
 Philippe le Bel in 1308. Jeanne de Bourgogne, wife of 
 Philippe le Long, always lived in the Hotel de Nesle during 
 
TOUR DE NESLE 401 
 
 the eight years of her widowhood. Her being the heiress 
 of Franche Comt^ had caused her to be acquitted and 
 reconciled to her husband after she was accused of adultery 
 together with the two other daughters-in-law of Philippe de 
 Bel, though the Princesses Blanche and Marguerite were 
 imprisoned for life, and their supposed lovers, Philippe and 
 Gautier d'Aulnoi, beheaded, after the most cruel tortures. At 
 the same time, many persons, as well of lofty as of humble 
 degree, supposed to have favoured the loves of the 
 princesses, were sewn up in sacks and thrown into the river. 
 It is probable that Jeanne, who was accused of the same 
 galanteries as her sisters-in-law, and who actually lived at 
 the Tour de Nesle, was the heroine of its famous legend. 
 
 ' C'itoit une reine qui se tenoit h. I'hStel de Nesle, faisant le guet 
 au passants, et ceux qui lui revenaient et agr^aient le plus, de quelque 
 sorte de gens que ce fussent, les faisait appeler et venir a soy de nuit, 
 et apres en avoir tire ce qu'elle en voulait, les -faisait pr&ipiter du haut 
 de la tour qui paratt encore en has en I'eau, et les faisait noyer. Je ne 
 veux pas dire que cela soit vrai, mais le vulgaire, au moins plupart de 
 Paris, I'affirme, et n'y a si commun, qu'en lui monstrant la tour seule- 
 ment et en I'interrogeant, que de lui-nigme ne le die.' — BrantSme, 
 ' Dames Galantes. ' 
 
 ' Robert Gaguin, historien de la fin du quinzieme siecle, raconte 
 qu'un ecolier, nomme Jean Buridan, ayant echapp^ a ce peril, posa 
 dans les ecoles le celebre sophisme : Licitum est occidere re^nam (il 
 est permis de tuer une reine) ! " Lequel Buridan fiit, au temps que 
 regna Philippe de Valois, tres-renonime regent ^s-arts liberaux." 
 Selon d'autres recits, la cruelle reine aurait, au contraire, attente i la 
 vie du savant docteur Buridan, un des chefs de la secte philosophlque des 
 nominaux (nominalistes), parce qu'il d^tournait ses ecoliers des illicites 
 amours de cette Messaline du moyen age. ' — Martin, ' Hist, de France. ' 
 
 The poet Villon, who was born in 1431, writes in his 
 
 ' Ballade des Dames du temps jadis ' — 
 
 ' Semblablement oil est la royne 
 Qui commanda que Buridan 
 Fut jet^ en un sac en Sceine.' 
 
 D D 
 
402 PARIS 
 
 It was to this same Hotel de Nesle that Henriette de 
 Clfeves, wife of Louis de Gonzague, Due de Nemours, 
 brought the head of her lover Coconas (beheaded 1574), 
 which had been exposed on the Place de Grfeve, and which 
 she carried off at night, and kept ever after in a cabinet 
 behind her bed.^ The same chamber was watered with the 
 tears of her granddaughter, Marie Louise de Gonzague de 
 Clfeves, whose lover, Cinq-Mars, had the same fate as Co- 
 conas, and was beheaded in 1642. 
 
 Henry V. of England inhabited the Tour de Nesle 
 when he was at Paris, and caused ' Le mystfere de la 
 passion de Saint Georges' to be acted there. In 1552, 
 Henri II. sold the hotel, and soon after it was all pulled 
 down, except the tower and gateway (by which part of 
 the army of Henri IV. entered Paris), which stood till 
 1663, when they were demolished to make way for the 
 College Mazarin. 
 
 The painter Jouvenet lived and worked in the pavilion 
 of the College Mazarin which touches the Quai Conti. On 
 the Quai Conti, a house at the corner of the Rue de Nevers, 
 was that in which Napoleon I, lived, on the fifth floor, as a 
 simple officer of artillery, fresh from the school of Brienne. 
 
 Behind the Institute, on the west, runs the Bue Mazarin 
 famous for its curiosity-shops, where, behind the houses, 
 are remains of the walls of Philippe Auguste. 
 
 A little east of the Institute is the Hotel de la Monnaie 
 (the Mint), a fine building by Jacques Denis Antoine, 
 erected 1768-1775, on a site previously occupied by the 
 Hotel de Gudn^gand," then by the Grand et Petit Hotels 
 
 ' See Mimotres de N'evers, i. 57. 
 
 * The literary soirees of Mme de Gu^n^gand had a great celebrity. The 
 
THE LUXEMBOURG 
 
 4P3 
 
 de Conti. The original mint was in the He de la Citd. 
 The museum of coins, medals, &c., is open to the public 
 on Tuesdays and Fridays from 2 to 3. The laboratory is 
 only shown by a special permission from the Commission 
 des Monnaies et M^dailles. On the garden side a stately 
 front of the Petit Hotel de Conti may still be seen enclosed 
 in later buildings. 
 
 We may now turn south, following the Rue de la Seine, 
 where Marguerite de Valois, the repudiated and licentious 
 first wife of Henri IV,, having leave to reside in Paris, lived 
 after she left the Hotel de Sens in the Marais till her death, 
 which occurred here, March 27, 1615. =She chose this resi- 
 dence because ' il lui parut piquant de demeurer vis-k-vis 
 du Louvre, ou regnait Marie de Medicis.' Sully, however, 
 praises the sweetness of temper, resignation, and dis- 
 interestedness of Queen Margurite. 
 
 ' I saw Queene Margarite, the king's divorced wife, being carried 
 by men in the open streets under a stately canopy.' — Coryafs ' Cru- 
 dities^ 161 1. 
 
 It was in the house of Queen Marguerite that the first 
 literary academy met, under Antoine Leclerc de la For^t as 
 president. 
 
 The Rue de la Seine will bring us to the Palace of the 
 Luxembourg, now the Palace of the Senate (open from 9 to 4 
 in winter, 9 to 5 in summer), built by Marie de Medicis 
 on the site of a_ hotel erected by Robert de Harlay de 
 Saucy early in the XVI. c, which was bought by the Due de 
 Pincy-Luxembourg. The queen employed Jacques De- 
 brosses as her architect in 1615, and his work was completed 
 
 M^moires cle Coulwnges describe Boileau reciting his verses there to a society 
 composed of Mmes de S^vign6, de Feuqui&res, and de la Fayette, MM. de la 
 Rochefoucauld, de Sens, de Saintes, de L^on, and de Caumartin. 
 
 D D 2 
 
404 PARIS 
 
 in 1620. The ground floor, in the Tuscan style, was in- 
 tended to convey a reminiscence of the Florentine Palazzo 
 Pitti, in which Marie de Medicis was born : the upper stories 
 are Grecian. 
 
 ' I think this one of the most noble, entire, and finish'd piles that 
 is to be seen, taking it with the gardens and all its accomplishments. ' 
 fohn Evelyn. 
 
 'In plan, the Luxembourg is essentially ^French, consisting of a 
 raz.^'ac^rA corps de logis 315 feet in width by 1 70 feet in depth, and 
 three stories in height, from which wings project 230 feet, enclosing a 
 courtyard, with the usual screen and entrance tower in front. By the 
 boldness of his masses, and the variety of light and shade he has in- 
 troduced everywhere, the architect has sought to relieve the monotony 
 of detail by the variety of outline. He has done this with such success 
 that even now there are few palaces in France which, on the whole, are 
 so satisfactory and so little open to adverse criticism.' — Fergusson. 
 
 The queen intended to call the palace Palais Medicis, 
 though the nartie has always clung to it which is derived 
 from Frangois de Luxembourg, prince de Tingry, who owned 
 the site in 1570. The palace was bequeathed by Marie de 
 Medicis to her younger son, Gaston, Due d'Orl^ans, from 
 whom it came to his two daughters, who each held half of 
 the Luxembourg — ' La Grande Mademoiselle,' and the pious 
 Duchesse de Guise (whose mother, sister of the Due de 
 Lorraine, had clandestinely become the second wife of 
 Monsieur), who was terribly tyrannised over by her rich half- 
 sister. It was here that Mademoiselle received the visits of 
 M. de Lauzun, whilst La Fosse was painting the loves of Flore 
 and Zephyr, and here that she astonished Europe by the 
 announcement of her intended marriage, to which — for a 
 few days — Louis XIV. was induced to give his consent. 
 
 ' je m'en vais vous mander la chose la plus ^tonnante, la plus sur- 
 prenante, la plus merveilleuse, la plus miraculeuse, la plus triomphante, 
 la plus ^tourdissante, la plus inouie, la plus siuguliere, la plus extra- 
 
THE LUXEMBOURG 405 
 
 ordinaire, la plus incroyable, la plus impr^vue, la plus grande, la plus 
 petite, la phis rare, la plus commune, la plus &latante, la plus secrete 
 jusqu'aujourd'hui, la plus brillante, la plus digne d'envie ; enfin une 
 chose dont on ne trouve qu'un exemple dans les siteles passfc, encore 
 cat exemple n'est-il pas juste ; une chose que nous ne saurions croire ^ 
 Paris, comment la pourrait-on croire k Lyon ! une chose qui fait crier 
 misericorde k tout le monde ; une chose enfin qui se fera dimanche, 
 ou ceux qui la verront croiront avoir la berlue ; une chose qui se fera 
 dimanche, et qui ne sera peut-etre pas faite lundi. Je ne puis me re- 
 soudre i vous la dire ; devinez-la, je vous donne en trois ; jetea-vouS 
 voire langue aux chiens? He bien ! il faut done vous le dire. M. de 
 Lauzun epouse dimanche au Louvre, devinez qui ? Je vous le donne 
 en quatre, je vous le donne en six, je vous le donne en cent. Mme 
 de Coulanges dit : " Voili qui est bien difficile a deviner ; c'est Mme 
 de la ValUere." "Point du tout, madame." "C'est done Mile de 
 Retz?" " Point du tout, vous ^tes bien provinciale." "Ah! vraiment, 
 nous sommes bien betes," dites-vous, "c'est Mile Colbert." "En 
 core moins. " " C'est assurement Mile de Cr^qui." Vous n'y ^tes 
 pas. II faut done a la fin vous le dire : il epouse dimanche au Louvre, 
 avec la permission du roi. Mademoiselle . . . Mademoiselle de . . . 
 Mademoiselle, devinez le nom ; il Spouse Mademoiselle, fiUe de feu 
 Monsieur, Mademoiselle, petite-fiUe de Henri IV., Mademoiselle d'Eu, 
 Mademoiselle de Dombes, Mademoiselle de Montpensier, Mademoi- 
 selle d'Orleans, Mademoiselle cousine germaine du roi, Mademoiselle 
 destinee au trone, Mademoiselle, le seul parti Je France qui fut digne 
 de Monsieur. Voila un beau sujet de discourir. '—/)//«« de, Sivigni, 
 is dicembre, 1670. 
 
 Unfortunately for Mademoiselle, she did not take the 
 king at his word and marry at once, but waited for a magni- 
 ficent ceremonial. Four days later we read — 
 
 ' Ce qui s'appelle tomber du haut des nues, c'est ce qui arriva hier 
 au soir aux Tuileries ; mais il faut reprendre les choses de plus loin. 
 Vous en 6tes k la joie, aux transports, aux ravissements de la Princesse 
 et de son bienheureux amant. Ce fut done lundi que la chose fut de- 
 clar^e, comme je vous I'ai mande. Le mardi se passa a parler, k 
 s'etonner, i complimenter. Le mercredi, Mademoiselle fit une dona- 
 tion i M. de Lauzun, avec dessein de lui donner les titres, les noms et 
 les ornemens necessaires pour 6tre norome dans le contrat de niariage 
 qui fut fait le meme jour. Elle lui donna done, en attendant mieux, 
 
4o6 PARIS 
 
 quatre duches : le premier, c'est le comte d'Eu, qui est la premiere pairie 
 de France, et qui donne le premier rang ; le duche de Montpensier, 
 dont il porta hier le nom toute la journee ; le duche de Saint-Fangeau ; 
 le duche de Chatellerault ; tout cela estime vingt-deux millions. Le 
 contrat fut dress^ ensuite ; il y prit le nom de Montpensier. Le jeudi 
 matin, qui 6toit hier, Mademoiselle espera que le.roi signeroit le con- 
 trat, comme il I'avoit dit ; mais sur las sept heures du soir, la reine. 
 Monsieur, et plusieurs barbons firent entendre k Sa Majeste que cette 
 affaire faisoit tort a sa reputation ; en sorte qu'apres avoir fait venir 
 Mademoiselle et M. de Lauzun, le roi lui declara, devant M. le Prince, 
 qu'il leur defendoit absolument de scnger k ce mariage. M. de Lauzutf 
 reyut cet ordre avec tout le respect, toute la soumission, toute la fermet^ 
 et toute le d^sespoir que meritoit une si grande chute. Pour Mademoi- 
 selle, Euivant son humeur, elle eclata en pleurs, en cris, en douleurs 
 violentes, en plaintes excessives ; et tout le jour elle a garde son ht, 
 sans rien avaler que des bouillons. Voilk un beau songe ; voila un 
 beau sujet de roman ou de tragedie.' 
 
 The independent spirit of Mademoiselle was not con- 
 fined to her love-affairs. 
 
 ' Lorsqu'on porta le deuil de Cromwell i la cour de France; 
 Mademoiselle fut la seule qui ne rendit point cet homniage a la memoire 
 du meurtrier d'un roi son parent.' — Voltaire. 
 
 At her death, Mademoiselle bequeathed her right in the 
 Luxembourg to her cousin Philippe, Due d'Orldans, brother 
 of Louis XIV. During the Regency, the palace was the 
 residence of the Duchesse de Berry (daughter of the 
 Regent, Philippe d'Orleans), who, by her orgies here 
 rivalled those of her father at the Palais Royal. The 
 I^uxembourg was bought by Louis XV., and given by Louis 
 XVI. to his brother, ' Monsieur,' who resided in it till his 
 escape from Paris at the time of the flight to Varennes. 
 
 Treated as national property during the Revolution, the 
 Luxembourg became one of the prisons of the Reign of 
 Terror. Amongst other prisoners, comprising the most il- 
 lustrious names in France, were the Vicomte de Beauharnais 
 and his wife Josephine, afterwards Empress of the French : 
 
THE LUXEMBOURG 407 
 
 'De quoi se plaignent done ces damnds aristocrates?' cried a 
 Montagnard ; ' nous les logeons dans les chateaux royaux.' 
 David the painter designed his picture of the Sabines during 
 his imprisonment at the Luxembourg, in a little room on 
 the second floor. Here also, in a difiPerent category, were 
 imprisoned Hubert, Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Philip- 
 peaux, Lacroix, H^rault de Sechelles, Payne, Bazire, Chabot, 
 and Fabre d'Eglantine. In 1793 people used to come and 
 stand for hours in the garden in the hope of being able to 
 have a last sight of their friends, from their being allowed 
 to show themselves at the windows. 
 
 ' Outre la douleur qu'on avail de voir chaque jour enlever i ses 
 cotes un camarade dont le temps et le malheur avaient souvent fait un 
 ami precieux ; outre I'attente cruelle ovi chacun etait lui-meme d'etre, 
 transfere et guillotine ; outre les persecutions sans nombre que le 
 genie barbare du concierge et de son complice suscitait tous les jours ; 
 outre les alarmes perp^tuelles oh. le silence forc^ des families et le refus 
 des journaux plongeaient tous les detenus, survint une nouvelle calamite 
 qui devait operer sur le physique les maux dont le moral etait depuis 
 long-temps affect^. Je parle des tables communes, cette institution si 
 precieuse en elle-meme, si elle n'avait pas ^t^ abandonnde k des hommes 
 avides qui speculaient pour empoisonner ou faire mourir de faim les 
 citoyens qu'ils devaient nourrir. . . . Ce qu'on demandait arriva ; les 
 maladies se multipliferent, et les malades n'avaient aucun secours ; il 
 fallait, pour faire entrer de la tisane, une permission du medecin, qui 
 devait 6tre vis^e par Fadministration de police, dans les bureaux de 
 laquelle la permission restait encore plusieurs jours ; enfin quand on 
 I'obtenait, ce n'etait qu'a prix d'argent qu'on pouvait se procurer les 
 drogues ordonn^es. Chacun dep&issait ; la mort etait peinte sur tous 
 les visages ; on n'entendait pour toute nouvelle que la voix sepulcrale 
 d'un scelerat soudoye, qui venait sous les fenetres des malheureux 
 detenus, crier : Za liste des soixcmte ou quatre-mngis gagnants d la 
 loterie de la sainU guillotine, Des barri^res avaient ote la triste et 
 derni^re consolation que pussent avoir les prisonniers en apercevant 
 leur famiile ou leurs amis. Tous avaient fait le sacrifice de leur vie, et 
 attendaient avec une niorne resignation I'instant du supplice. Les 
 malheureux qui I'osaient prevenir etaient regardes par ces mangeurs 
 
4o8 PARIS 
 
 d'hommes comme les scelerats les plus consomm&, et on insultait avec 
 barbarie^ leurs cadavres et a leur memoire.' — Mimoires sur les pi-isons. 
 
 ' Parroi les prisonnieres du Luxembourg se trouvaient les duchesses 
 de Noailles et d'Ayen ; la premiere etait ag^e d'environ quatre-vingt- 
 trois ans, et presque enti^rement sourde ; k peine pouvait-elle marcher ; 
 elle etait obligee d'aller comme les autres a la gamelle, et de porter 
 avec elle une bouteille, une assiette, et un convert de bois ; il n'etait 
 pas permis d'en avoir d'autre. Comme on mourait de faim lorsqu'on 
 allait a ce pitoyable diner, chacun se pressait pour arriver le plus tot 
 possible, sans faire attention k ceux qui ^taient ^ cot^ de soi. Lavieille 
 marechale etait pouss^e comme les autres ; et, trop faible pour resister a 
 ce choc, elle se trainait le long du mur pour ne pas ^tre a chaque pas 
 renversee ; elle n'osait avancer ni reculer, et n'arrivait a la table que 
 lorsque tout le monde etait plac^. Le geolier la prenait rudement par 
 le bras, la faisait pirouetter, et la pla9a sur le banc comme s'il y efit 
 mis un paquet.' — BeauHeu, ^ Essais historiques.'' 
 
 ' Je trouvai dans la meme prison le marechal et la marechale de 
 Mouchy, la princesse Joseph de Monaco, la duchesse de Fleury, 
 Mrae de la Riviere, sa fille, Mme de Chaun^au-Breteuil, enfin Mme 
 de Narbonne, et je ne sais combien d'autres femmes de mes parentes 
 ou de ma society, qui me reyurent i bras ouverts, et le coeur bien serr^. 
 
 * Je me rappellerai toujours le moment du depart de la marechale 
 de Mouchy, qui voulut absolument accompagner son mari devant le 
 tribunal r^volutionnaire. Le ge81ier, la geSliere et tous les guichetiers 
 et leurs ogrichons, lui disaient, dans la cour ou nous etions descendus 
 et rassembles pour leur faire nos tristes adieux : "Mais reste done, va-t- 
 en done, citoyenne, tu n'es pas mandfe par le tribunal." " Citoyens," 
 disait-elle, " ayez piti^ de nous, ayez la charity de me laisser aller avec 
 M. de Mouchy ; ne nous separez pas ! " Son bonnet tomba par teire, 
 elle se baissa p^niblement, et le ramassa pour en couvrir ses pauvres 
 cheveux blanch. . , . Enfin son devouement triompha de la resistance 
 de ses ge61iers, on la laissa monter sur la fatale charrette a c6te de son 
 mari, et deux heures apr^s ils n'existaient plus.' — Souvenirs de la Mar- 
 quise de Crequi. 
 
 It was at the Luxembourg, that (December lo, 1797), 
 Bonaparte presented the treaty of the peace of Campo 
 Formio to the Directory, after returning from his first 
 campaign in Italy. At the end of 1799, the palace became 
 for a time Le Palais du Consulat : under the empire it was 
 
THE LUXEMBOURG 409 
 
 Le Palais du Senat, then de la Pairie. Marshal Ney was 
 condemned to death here, under the Restoration (Novem- 
 ber 21, 18T5), and was executed in the All^e de I'Obser- 
 vatoire, at the end of the garden, on December 7. The 
 iron wicket still remains in the door of his prison, opening 
 west at the end of the great gallery of archives. The 
 ministers of Charles X. were also judged at the Luxembourg, 
 and Fieschi and the other conspirators of July 1835 were 
 condemned here ; as was Prince Louis Napoleon Bona- 
 parte, after the attempt at Boulogne in 1840. 
 
 The Luxembourg is only shown when the Senate 
 not sitting. The apartments best worth seeing are the 
 Chapel of 1844, decorated with modern paintings ; and the 
 Ancienne Salle du Livre d'or, where the titles and arms of 
 peers were preserved under the Restoration and Louis 
 Philippe, adorned with the decorations of the apartment 
 of Marie de Medicis. The ceiling of the gallery which 
 forms part of the hall represents the Apotheosis of Marie. 
 The arabesques in the principal hall are attributed to 
 Giovanni da Udine: the ceiling represents Marie de Me- 
 dicis re-establishing the peace and imity of France. The 
 first floor is reached by a great staircase which occupies the 
 place of a gallery once filled with the twenty-four great 
 pictures of the life of the Regent Marie by Rubens, now 
 in the Louvre. The oratory of the queen and ano^her room 
 are now united to form the Salle des Gardes, her bedroom 
 is the Salle des Messagers d'Etat, and her reception-room is 
 known as the Salon de Napoleon I. The cupola of the Salle du 
 Trone by Alaux represents the Apotheosis of the first emperor. 
 The Hotel du Petit Luxembourg is a dependency of the 
 greater palace, and was erected about the same time by 
 
410 PARIS 
 
 Richelieu, who resided here till the Palais Royal was built. 
 When he moved thither, he gave this palace to his niece, 
 the Duchesse d'Aiguillon, from whom it passed to Henri 
 Jules de Bourbon-Condd, after which it received the name of 
 Fetit Bourbon. Anne, Palatine of Bavaria, lived here, and 
 added a hotel towards the Rue Vaugirard to accommodate 
 her suite. Under the first empire the Petit Luxembourg 
 was occupied for some time by Joseph Bonaparte. It is 
 now the official residence of the President of the Senate. 
 The cloister of the former convent of the Filles du Calvaire, 
 whom Marie de Medicis established near her palace, is now 
 a winter garden attached to the Petit Luxembourg. The 
 chapel, standing close to the grille of the Rue de Vaugirard, 
 is an admirable specimen of the renaissance of the end of 
 the XVL c, ; on the summit of its gable is a symbolical 
 Pelican nourishing its young. 
 
 Beyond the Petit Luxembourg, is a modern building 
 containing the Music du Luxembourg. The collection now 
 in the galleries of the Louvre was begun at the Luxembourg 
 and only removed in 1779, when Monsieur came to reside 
 here. In 1802 a new gallery was begun at the Luxembourg, 
 but, in 1815, its pictures were removed to the Louvre to fill 
 the places of those restored to their rightful owners by the 
 Allies. It was Louis XVIII. who ordered that the Luxem- 
 bourg should receive such works of living artists as were 
 acquired by the State. The collection, recently moved from 
 halls in the palace itself, is always interesting, but as the 
 works of each artist are removed to the Louvre ten years 
 after his death, the pictures are constantly changing. They 
 are open to the public daily, except on Mondays, from 10 
 to 4 in winter, and 9 to 5 in summer. 
 
GARDENS OF THE LUXEMBOURG 411 
 
 ■ The Gardens of the Luxembourg, the ' bel-respiro ' of 
 Paris, as Lady Morgan calls it, are delightful, and are the 
 best type of an ancient French palace pleasaunce — indeed, 
 they are now the prettiest and pleasantest spot in Paris. 
 Diderot, in his Neveu de Rameau, alludes to his walks in 
 these gardens, and Rousseau took his daily exercise here, 
 till he found the gardens becoming too frequented for his 
 misanthropic disposition. 
 
 ' II y a de tout dans ce jardin, et tout y est d'une grandeur extra- 
 ordinaire ; grandes palisades, grandes et longues alines, grands bois ; 
 plusieurs grands jardins remplis de simples, et un parterre qui est le plus 
 grand et le plus magnifique de I'Europe.' — SauvaU 
 
 ' The parterre is indeed of box, but so rarely designed and accu- 
 rately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a wonderful effect to the 
 lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into four squares, and as many 
 circular knots, having in ye center a noble basin of marble neere thirty 
 feet in diameter, in which a triton of brasse hcids a dolphine that casts 
 a girandola of water neere thirty foote high, playing perpetually, the 
 water being convey'd from Arcueil by an aqueduct of stone, built after 
 ye old Roman magnificence.' — John Evelyn, 1644. 
 
 There is a noble view of the Pantheon down one of the 
 avenues. The parterres were decorated by Louis Philippe 
 with statues of the queens of France and other illustrious 
 Frenchwomen, the best statue being thM of Mile de Mont- , 
 pensier by Desmesnay. Towards the Rue de Medicis, on the 
 east, is the handsome fountain of Marie de Medicis, erected 
 by Jacques Debrosses (1620). The forcible closing of these 
 gardens by the Duchessede Berry during the minority of Louis 
 XV. was an early and fruitful source of irritation for the people 
 of Paris against the arbitrary conduct of the aristocracy. 
 Those who spend a quiet morning hour here will appreciate 
 the description which Victor Hugo gives of the gardens on 
 a June morning. 
 
 ' Le Luxembourg etait charmant. Les quinconces et les parterres 
 
412 PARIS 
 
 s'envoyaient dans la lumiere des baumes et des dblouissements. Les 
 branches, folles 4 la clart^ de midi, sfemblaient chercher k s'embrasser. 
 II y avait dans les sycamores un tintamarre de fauvettes, les passereaux 
 triomphaient, lespiquebois grimpaient le long les raarroniers en donnant 
 de petits coups de bee dans les trous de I'^corce. Les plates-bandes 
 acceptaient la royaute legitime des lys ; le plus auguste des parfums, 
 c'est celui qui sort de la blancheur. On respirait I'odeur poivree des 
 ceillets. Les vieilles corneilles de Marie de Medicis ^taient amoureuses 
 dans les grands arbres. Le soleil dorait, empourprait et allumait les 
 tulipes, qui ne sont autre chose que toutes les variet^s de la flamme, 
 faites fleurs. Tout autour des bancs de, tulipes tourbillonnaient les 
 beilles, ^tincelles de ces fleurs flammes. Tout etait grice et gaSte, 
 m6me la pluie,prochaine ; cette r^cidive, dont les raugnets et les ch^vre- 
 feuilles devaient profiter, n'avait rien d'inqui^tant, les hirondelles fais- 
 aient la charmante menace de voler bas. Qui etait Ik aspirait du bon- 
 heur ; la vie sentait bon ; toute cette nature exhalait la candeur, le 
 secours, I'assistance, la paternity, la caresse, I'aurore. Les pensees qui 
 tombaient du ciel etaient douces comme une petite main d'enfant qu'on 
 baise. 
 
 ' Les statues sous les arbres, nues et blanches, avaieht des robes 
 d'ombre troupes de lumifere ; ces dresses etaient toutes deguenillees de 
 soleil ; il leur pendait des rayons de tous les c6t&. Autour du grand 
 bassin, la terre ^tait dijk sechee au point d'etre brfllee. II faisait asser 
 de vent pour soulever 5k et Ik de petites ^meutes de poussifere. 
 Quelques feuilles jaunes, resides du dernier automne, se poursuivaient 
 joyeusement, et semblaient gaminer. 
 
 ' Grace au sable, il n'y avait pas une tache de boue ; grace a la 
 pluie, il n'y avait pas un grain de cendre. Les bouquets venaient de se 
 laver ; tous les velours, tous les satins, tous les vernis, tous les ors, qui 
 sortent de la terre sous forme de fleurs, (Etaient irreprochables. Cette 
 magnificence etait propre. Le grand silence de la nature heureuse 
 emplissait le jardln. Silence celeste compatible avec miUe musiques, 
 roucouleraents de nids, bourdonnements d'essaims, palpitations du 
 vent. Toute I'harmonie de la saison s'accomplissait dans un gracieux 
 ensemble ; les entrees et les sorties du printemps avaient lieu dans 
 I'ordre voulu ; les lilas finissaient, les jasmins commenpaient ; quelques 
 fleurs etaient attardees, quelques insectes Etaient en avance, I'avant- 
 garde des papillons rouges de juin fratemisait avec I'arriere-garde des 
 papillons blancs de mai. Les platanes faisaient peau neuve. La brise 
 creusait des ondulations dans I'^normite magniflque des marroniers. 
 C'etait splendide. Un vet&an de la caserne voisine qui regardait k 
 
RUE M. LE PRINCE 413 
 
 travers la grille disait : " Voilk le printemps au.port d'arme et en grande 
 tenue. " '- Les Misirables. 
 
 The gardens do not, however, always produce such a 
 favourable impression. 
 
 ' Oserez-vous porter vos pas dans les profondeurs du faubourg ultra- 
 pontain ? L'aspect du v^ti^ran triste et morne semblable au Temps qui 
 veille a la porte du tombeau, ne vous arretera-t-il pas aux portes du 
 Luxembourg ? Les enfants crient, les bonnes grondent, passez vite ; 
 plus loin, quelques vieux rentiers promenent leur goutte, leurs rheu- 
 matismes, leur phthisie, leur paralysie, passez vite encore. Le Luxem- 
 bourg est le rendez-vous de la vieillesse ennuyeuse et cacochyme et de 
 I'enfance importune et criarde ; on n'y marche qu'entre des Cannes et 
 des bourrelets ; c'est I'Klysfe de goutteux, la patrie des nourrices.' — 
 Balzac, ' Esquisses parisiennes. ' 
 
 Close to the Luxembourg, on the north-east, is the great 
 Odeon Theatre (by Wailly and Peyre), which occupies the 
 site of the older Hotel de Cond6. In its earlier existence 
 this was the Hotel de Gondi, havihg been bought by 
 JdrSme de Gondi, Due de Retz, one of an Italian family 
 who came to France in the service of Catherine de Medicis, 
 and made an iminense fortune there. Being sold for debt, 
 the hotel was acquired (in 1612) by Henri de Bourbon, 
 Prince de Cond^, but his son left it for the second Hotel de 
 Condd, near the Louvre. 
 
 In the Rue M. le Prince (a little east) is the house — 
 No. 10 — where Comte lived and wrote his Positive Polity. 
 He occupied the first floor, where his Vooms are preserved 
 by the Positivists in the same state in which he left them at 
 his death — his salon, bedroom, bed, sofa, and even his old 
 clothes in the cupboard, are cherished. He was buried at 
 P^re Lachaise. 
 
 The Rue de Tournon leads direct north from the entrance 
 of the Luxembourg. It was at the angle of this street and 
 
414 PARIS 
 
 the Rue du Petit Bourbon that the furious Duchesse de 
 Montpensier lived, sister of the Guises murdered at Blois. 
 Here she is said to have plotted the murder of Henri IV., 
 and here she received the mother of Jacques Cldment, 
 when she came from her village of Sorbonne, near Sens, to 
 claim a reward for the assassination by her son, and returned, 
 having obtained it, and accompanied by 140 ecclesiastics a.s 
 a guard of honour for a league out of the town. 
 
 ' Celui qui en apporta la premiere nouvelle k la duchesse de Mont- 
 pensier (Catherine-Marie de Lorraine) et i sa m^re Mme de Nemours, 
 fut regu comme un sauveur : la duchesse, lui sautant au cou et I'embras- 
 sant, s'ecriait : "Ah ! men ami, sois le bien venu ! Mais est-il vrai 
 au moins ? Ce mechant, ce perfide, ce tyran, est-il mort ? Dieu, que 
 vous me faites aise ! Je ne suis marrie que d'une chose : c'est qu'il n'a 
 su, devant que de mourir, que c'etoit moi qui I'avois fait tuer ! " ' — Paul 
 Lacroix. 
 
 The Hotel de V Empereur Joseph (No. 33 at the top of the 
 street on the right), is where that prince, who preferred an 
 inn, staid when he came to visit his sister Marie Antoinette. 
 An iiiscription at No. 34 marks the house where the tragic 
 actor Henri Lelcain was living at the time of his death in 1778. 
 No. 6, on the left, formerly known as the Hotel Nivernais, of 
 the XVin. c, stands on the site of the Hfitel of Concini, 
 Mar^chal d'Ancre, minister of Marie de Medicis ; it is low, 
 and built of light materials, for fear it should go through 
 to the catacombs beneath. 
 
 Along the front of the Luxembourg runs the Rue de 
 
 Vaugirard. Here, at the corner of the Rue Ferou (right), 
 
 is, nearly unaltered, the Hotel de Madame de la Fayette. 
 
 ' Le jardin de Mme de la Fayette est la plus jolie chose du monde, 
 tout est fleuri, tout est parfume ; nous y passons bien des soirees, car la 
 pauvre femme n'ose aller en carrosse.' — Mme de Sivigne, jp mai, 1672. 
 
 At the corner of the Rue Cassette (right) is the Hotel de 
 
LES CARMES 415 
 
 Hennisdal, formerly de Brissac, named in golden letters above 
 its gate, and retaining its old garden, with a grille of 1704. 
 
 No. 70 is the Dominican convent to which the famous 
 Pfere Lacordaire belonged. The foundation stone of its 
 chapel was laid by Marie de Medicis in 161 2. The heart of 
 Archbishop Affre, killed on the Barricade S. Antoine, in 
 the revolution of 1848, is preserved here, and the epitaph 
 of Cardinal de Beausset, historian of Fdnelon and Bossuet. 
 
 As Les Carmes, this convent (founded by Louis XIII.) 
 was the scene of the terrible massacre of priests in Sep- 
 tember 1792. 
 
 ' Le massacre des pr^tres qui etaient a I'Abbaye etant consomm^, les 
 autres maisons d'arret, oil on en avail renfemi^ un nombre bien plus 
 considerable, furent ouvertes aux assassins, lis se porterent d'abord au 
 couvent des Carmes, ou la municipalite avait fait conduire peu de jours 
 auparavant cent quatre-vingt-cinq pretres, y compris trois archeveques 
 ou ev^ques, savoir : I'archev^que d' Aries (Dulau), ci-devant agent du 
 clerg4 et I'un des pri^lats de I'Eglise de Franceles plus reconimandables 
 par ses profondes lumi^res, par son zele et par ses vertus, I'ev^que de 
 Beauvais (La Rochefoucauld) et son frere I'evSque de Saintes. On les 
 avait tous fait sortir de Feglise une demi-heure avant I'arrivee des 
 assassins, et on les avait fait passer dans le jardin, apres avoir constate 
 par un appel nominal qu'il n'en manquait aucun. Les cris mena^ants 
 qu'ils entendaient de toutes parts, les piques et les sabres qu'ils voyaient 
 briller au travers les grilles et les croisees qui donnaient sur le jardin, 
 tout leur annon9ait que leur derniere heure ^tait arrivee, et ils Tatten- 
 daient avec la resignation la plus heroique. 
 
 ' Quatre heures sonnent ; les assassins entrcnt dans I'egllse en 
 vomissant les jurements et les imprecations les plus propres a raviver, k 
 irriter leur rage, et k les enhardir aux plus grands crimes. Apr^s 
 s'etre assures qu'aucun pretre ne s'est cache dans I'Eglise, ils en sortent 
 par la porte qui conduit au jardin. Cette porte, gard^e par la gen- 
 darmerie nationale, leur est ouverte sans la moindre resistance. A leur 
 approche, les pretres se dispersent : quelques-uiis, cherchant a se sauver, 
 montent sur les arbres, escaladent les murs pour se jeter dans la rue ou 
 dans les cours des maisons voisines, ceux-Ii sont pourchasses les 
 premiers et presque tous atteints h. coups de fusil ; les sabres, les piques, 
 
41 6 PARIS 
 
 les ba'ionnettes ach^vent de les egorger, D'autres se repandent dans 
 le jardin, et attendent tranquillement leur sort ; d'autres, au nombre de 
 trente environ, se r^unissent aux trois prelats, dans une petite chapelle 
 qui etait kl'extremite du jardin ; la ils implorent k genoux la misericorde 
 divine, se benissant reciproquement et s'enibrassant pour la derni^re fois. 
 Dix brigands s'avancent ; un des prStres va au-devant d'eux pour leur 
 parler, mais une balle I'atteint et le renverse. Les assassins demandent 
 a grands cris I'archev^que d'Arles ; personne ne leur repond ; un d'eux 
 le reconnatt au signalement qu'on leur en avail donn^. " C'est done 
 toi,"luidit-il, "qui es I'archev^que d'Arles. " Oui, messieurs, c'est moi," 
 repond froidement le prelat. ' ' Ah ! malheureux, c'est toi qui as fait 
 verser le sang des patriotes d'Arles." "Messieurs, je n'ai jamais fait 
 repandre le sang de personne, et de ma vie je n'ai fait de mal k qui que 
 ce soit." " Eh bien ! je vais t'en faire, moi." A I'instant il lui d^charge 
 un coup de sabre sur le front : I'archeveque reste immobile. II revolt 
 un seconde coup sur le visage, son sang, ruisselant i gros bouillons, 
 I'inonde et le rend meconnaissable. Un troisi^me coup I'abat ; il 
 torn be sans laisser echapper la moindre plainte ; un de ces scelerats lui 
 enfonce sa pique dans la poitrine aveo une telle violence qu'il ne peut 
 plus I'en arracher ; il monte alors sur son corps palpitant, la foule aux 
 pieds, retire sa pique brisee, vole sa montre et la presente d'un air 
 triomphant a ses camarades comme le trophee et la juste recompense de 
 sa ferocity. Ainsi se consomma le martyre de ce pr^Iat venerable, 
 dont la mort etla vie honor^rent egalement la religion. 
 
 ' Les deux autres eveques ^talent toujours k genoux au pied de 
 I'autel, avec les prStres qui s'etaient reunis k eux. Une grille les separait 
 des assassins ; ceux-ci firent sur eux plusieurs d^charges k bout portant, 
 et en tu^rent le plus grand nombre. L'eveque de Beauvais surv&ut a 
 ce premier massacre ; celui de Saintes y eut la jambe cass^e. Les dix 
 assassins se reunirent alors a ceux de leurs camarades qui pourchassaient 
 et egorgaient les pretres repandus dans le jardin. Cette horrible 
 boucherie durait depuis prfe d'un quart d'heure, lorsqu'un homme, 
 envoye sans doute par Danton, accourut et fit cesser le feu en criant 
 aux assassins : " Messieurs, ce n'est pas comma cela qu'il faut faire, 
 vous vous y prenez mal : faites ce que je vais vous dire." Alors il 
 ordonna qu'on fit rentier tous les pretres dans I'eglise. On y reconduisit 
 a coups de plat de sabre tous ceux qui etaient encore en ^tat de marcher : 
 il en restait k peu pr^s cent ; les deux eveques etaient de ce nombre ; 
 celui de Saintes, ayant une jambe cass^e, y fut transporte par les 
 assassins et depos^ sur un grabat. L'ordonnateur de cette nouvelle 
 manoeuvre plaja alors un nombre suffisant d'assassins au has de I'escalier 
 
LES CARMES 417 
 
 qui descendait dans le jardin, et y fit reconduire tous les pretres deux-i- 
 deux ; ^ mesure qu'ils afrivaient, ils etaient egorgi^s. Lorsque le tour de 
 r^veque de Beauvais fut arrive, on alia le prendre au pied I'autel, qu'il 
 tenait erabrasse ; il se leva et alia mourir. L'eveque de Saintes fut un 
 des deriiiers appeles. Les gendarmes nationaux qui entouraient son 
 grabat empechaient qu'on ne le vit et semblaient vouloir le sauver ; 
 mais ces mis^rables, igaux en nombre aux assassins et mieux armes 
 qu'eux, le laiss^rent enlever. II repondit k ses bourreaux, qui lui 
 ordonnaient de les suivre : " Je ne refuse pas d'aller mourir comme les 
 autres, mais vous voyez I'etat ou je suis ; j'ai une jambe cassee. Je 
 vous prie de m'aider k me soutenir." Deux brigands le prirent par- 
 dessous le bras et le conduisirent ainsi au supplice. 
 
 ' A sept heures et demie du soir, le massacre des pretres touchant i 
 sa fin, soit par le petit nombre des victimes qui restaient \ ^gorger, soit 
 par la lassitude des bourreaux, on fit ouvrir les portes de I'eglise au 
 peuple, afin qu'il l^gitim&t, au moins par sa presence, les forfaits horri- 
 bles qui venaient de se commettre, et qu'il en assurat I'impunite. Un 
 homme, se detachant de la foule des spectateurs, s'avan9a en face des 
 bourreaux, osa leur parler d'humanit^, et parvint en les flattant k 
 sauver quolqueS-uns des pretres qui restaient et qu'il fit passer derriere 
 lui. " Le peuple," dit-il, " est toujours juste dans ses vengeances, et les 
 pretres sont des miserables qui, i la mort pres, meritent tous les sup- 
 plices, mais la loi veut qu'ils soient juges," Le nombre de ceux qu'il 
 sauva par cette harangue et de ceux qui avaient echapp^ aux assassins 
 en escaladant les murs du jardin etait en tout de trente-quatre ; cent 
 cinq,uante-un furent massacres, et quelques laiques, qui avaient h.i 
 renferm^s aux Carmes, eurent le meme sort. Au seminaire de Saint- 
 Firmin, le nombre des pretres martyrs fut de quatre-vingt-huit ; il n'en 
 echappa que quinze au fer des assassins. Cdtte horrible catastrophe, 
 annoncee d'abord par Tallien et ensuite par Danton dans les discours 
 qu'il prononcerent k I'assemblee, ne fut point I'effet imprevu d'un 
 mouvement populaire ou d'une insurrection spontanee des brigands ; 
 elle fut le resultat d'un plan definitivement arrets plusieurs jours au- 
 paravant. Le fossoyeur de la paroisse Saint-Sulpice avait regu d'avance 
 un assignat de cent ^cus pour preparer k Montrouge la fosse 011 les 
 cadavres furent transportes lelendemain dansdix tombereaux. Danton, 
 Robespierre, Marat, Tallien et quelques autres membres de la commune 
 furent les auteurs de ce plan et les principanx ordonnateurs de son 
 execution. Trois ou quatre cents scelerats, choisis parmi les Marseillais 
 et les federes, furent leurs instruments. Le peuple n'assista qu'aux 
 derniers massacres qui furent commis aux Carmes, et on a vu qu'il n'y 
 
 E E 
 
4iS PARIS 
 
 parut que pour y niettre un terme ; il n'entra point au seminaire de 
 Saint-Firmin, lorsque les prgtres y etaient ^gorges dans les dortoirs, 
 dans les cellules &c. ; il ne vitque ceux qu'onjetait tout vivantspar les 
 fenetres, et qui Etaient assomme' dans la rue k coups de hache par les 
 assassins du dehors ! ' — Bertrand de Moleville, ' Annaks.' 
 
 The historic chapel, in which the priests were murdered, 
 was destroyed by the opening of the Rue de Rennes in 
 1867. Their bones were transferred to a crypt under the 
 church (open on Fridays). 
 
 The well-known Eau de Melisse was first made at this 
 
 convent. 
 
 ' La devotion des fidHes ne fut pas la seule mine qu'exploiterent les 
 carmes dechausses : ils possedaient le secret de deux compositions dont 
 ils firent un commerce lucratif : k blanc des carmes. Wane qui donnait, 
 aux surfaces des murs qui en etaient enduits le brillant de marbre poll, 
 et Veau de mllisse, dite aussi eau des carmes. II n'^tait point i Paris de 
 petite maitresse qui ne portat un flacon plein d'eau des carmes.' — 
 Dulaure, ' HisU de Paris {scms Louis XIII, ) ' 
 
 No. 74 Rue de Vaugirard is the llniversitk Catholigue 
 de Paris founded (1875) by thirty archbishops and bishops 
 of France. 
 
 Near the corner of the Boulevard "Montparnasse stood 
 the H6td de Turenne of the XVII. c, probably the house 
 where Mme de Maintenon brought up the children of Louis 
 XIV. and Mme de Montespan. At the end of the Rue de 
 Vaugirard is the Barrifere of the same name, outside which 
 is the Cimetilre de Vaugirard (now closed). 
 
 ' Le cimetilre Vaugirard ^tait ce qu'on pourrait appeler un cime- 
 tilre fan^.' II tombait en d&uetude. La moisissure I'envahissait, les 
 fleurs le quittaient. Les bourgeois se souciaient peu d'8tre enterr& a 
 Vaugirard ; cela sentait le pauvre. Le Pere Lachaise, k la bonne 
 heure ! 6tre enterre au Pere Lachaise, c'est comme avoir des meubles 
 en acajou. L'^legance se reconnait la. Le cimetiere Vaugirard etait 
 un enclos venerable, plante en ancien jardin fran9ais. Des allees droites, 
 
h6tEL DE la DUCHESSE DE SAVOIE 419 
 
 des buis, des tuyas, des houx, de vieilles tombes sous de vieux ifs, I'herbe 
 -tr^s-haute. Le soir y ^tait tragique, il y avail la des lignes trfes-lugubres. ' 
 Victor Hugo, ' Les Misirables.' 
 
 Returning down the Rue de Vaugirard to the front of the 
 
 ,^j»^, 
 
 hOtEL de la DUCHESSE DE SAVOIE. 
 
 Luxembourg, the Rue Garanciere leads towards the river. 
 The Hotel de la Duchesse de Savoie (No. 8) was built by F. 
 Gautier in 1538. In the time of Charles IX. it belonged to 
 Marguerite de France, Duchesse de Berry, aijd wife of 
 Emmanuel Philibert, Due de Savoie. She gave it, in 
 gratitude for his services, to her secretary, Raymond 
 
 E E 3 
 
420 PARIS 
 
 Forget, who sculptured the words ' de la lib^ralit^ de ma 
 princesse ' above the portal. At one time the hotel was 
 inhabited by the Marquis de Sourdiac, one of the creators 
 of the Opera." It preserves its fagade of tall corinthian 
 pilasters, with heavy capitals adorned with rams' heads 
 and foliage, and its court, where Mile Lecouvreur made 
 her debut in an impromptu theatre. The fountain in this 
 street was erected (in 1 7 1 5 ) by Anne of Bavaria, widow of the 
 Prince de Condd At No. 19 Rue Visconti, near this, is the 
 Hdtel de Rene d'Argouges, where Racine lived at one 
 time, and where Lecouvreur lived for some years and died. 
 At the end of the Rue Garancifere we reach (left) the 
 east end of the Church of S. Sulpice, perhaps the finest 
 example of the peculiar phase of architecture to which it 
 belongs. A parish church was built on this site in the 
 XII. c. In the XVII.c. its rebuilding was begun from 
 designs of Gamart, Gaston d'Orldans laying the first stone ; 
 but it was soon found that this church would be too small, 
 and Anne of Austria laid the foundation stone of the 
 present building, finished in 1749, under the Florentine 
 Giovanni Servandoni, who is commemorated in the name 
 of a neighbouring street. The original plan of Servandoni 
 would have made the church a model of modern architec- 
 ture. The fa9ade, which presents two ranges of porticoes^ 
 doric and ionic, is exceedingly noble and imposing. On 
 either side are square pavilions, upon which Servandoni 
 erected two towers, but these were thought so bad that, 
 after his death, one Maclaurin was employed to rebuild them ; 
 since that, the tower on the north, which is different to the 
 other, was, a second time, rebuilt by Chalgrin, in 1777. 
 Under the Revolution the church became a Temple of 
 
S. SULPICE 421 
 
 Victory, and the great banquet to Napoleon on his return 
 from Egypt, was given v.-ithin its walls. 
 
 The interior is chiefly striking from its vast proportions^ 
 Its chapels are decorated with marble from, the cascade at 
 Marly. ^ In the pavement of the south transept is a 
 meridian line, traced by Lemonnier in 1743. The ugly 
 pulpit given (1788) by the Mar^chal de Richelieu is sur- 
 mounted by a group representing Charity surrounded by 
 children. The organ (1862) is one of the finest in Europe. 
 
 In the first chapel (of S. Agnes) on the right are three great 
 frescoes by Engine Delacroix — S. Michael triumphing over 
 Satan (on the ceiling) ; Hehodorus thrown down and beaten 
 with rods ; and Jacob wrestling with the angel. All are fine, 
 but the last is the most remarkable. 
 
 ' Les figures ne tiennent pas ici la place principale. On pourrait 
 presque dire qu'elles ne sont qu'accessoires, tant la passion, la vie, le 
 role actif et anime sont d^volus au paysage. Depuis les premiers plans 
 jusqu'a la crete de ces montagnes dorees par le soleil levant, tout vous 
 captive et vous attache dans cette conception puissante, qui n'a gu^re 
 d'analogues, m^me chez les maltres italiens qui ont traite le plus largement 
 le paysage decoratif. Rien de banal, rien d'inutile. Comme ce chemin 
 creux est habilement jete dans ce coin pendu du tableau ! Comme on 
 y sent passer, a travers la poussiire, ces troupeaux, ces pasteurs, ces 
 femmes, ces enfants ! Comme on suit au loin les meandres de cette 
 longue caravane, et comme tout ce monde court bruyamment sans 
 se douter qu'un combat solitaire se livre a deux pa.s de li ! ' — L. Vitet, 
 ' Revue des Deiix Mondes,^ April 1862. 
 
 In the fifth chapel is the tomb of the Cur^ Languet 
 (1750), a fine work of Michel- Ange Slodtz. The mag- 
 nificent chapel of the Virgin (with an illusory effect of 
 light), behind the high-altar, is from designs of Wailly ; its 
 sculptured decorations are by Slodtz, the others by Van- 
 loo. The statue of the Virgin is by Pajou. 
 
 ' Diderot. 
 
422 PARIS 
 
 The third chapel (of S. Paul), on the left in descending the 
 nave, has, in its frescoes, the best works of Drolling. Against 
 the wall of the left transept is a curious Gnomon Astro- 
 nomicus. In the crypt are statues of S. Paul and S. John 
 the Evangelist by Pradier, The Church of S. Sulpice is 
 one of those especially frequented on New Year's Eve. 
 
 Members of the royal family buried at S. Sulpice have 
 been — Marie de Bourbon, Princesse de Savoie-Carignan, 
 1656 ; the Princesse de Luxembourg, wife of Louis Henri 
 de Bourbon-Soissons, 1736 ; her daughter, Louise de Bour- 
 bon-Soissons, Duchesse de Luynes, 1758; Charles de S. 
 Albin, Archbishop of Cambrai, bastard of the Regent of 
 Orleans, 1764; Louise-Elisabeth de Bourbon Cond^, Prin- 
 cesse de Conti, granddaughter of Louis XIV., 1775 ; and 
 Louise-Elisabeth d'Orl^ans, Queen of Spain, daughter of 
 the Regent, 1742. 
 
 The handsome Fountain of S. Sulpice (1847) is from 
 designs of Visconti, and is adorned with statues of the four 
 most celebrated French preachers — Bossuet (1704), F&elon 
 (1715), Massillon (1742), and Fldchier (1710). A flower- 
 market is held here on Mondaj's and Thursdays. 
 
 A little east of S. Sulpice is the Marche S. Germain. The 
 fountain in the market formerly decorated the Place S. 
 Sulpice. In the adjoining Rue Lobinot a bird-market is 
 held every Sunday morning. 
 
 Continuing north from S. Sulpice, we soon reach the 
 modern Boulevard S. Germain. One of the streets which 
 cross it. Rue Grtgoire de Tours, in its former name of Rue 
 des Mauvais Gargons, commemorated the wild conduct of 
 the neighbouring university students. 
 
 Included in the line of the modern Boulevard is the 
 
5. GERMAIN DES PR^S 423 
 
 famous church of ^. Germain des Prcs. When (in 542) 
 Childebert (son of Clovis) was besieging Saragossa in 
 Spain, he was astonished to see that the inhabitants used no 
 arms for their defence, but were satisfied with walking round 
 the walls chaunting and bearing with them the tunic of S. 
 Vincent. This inspired the superstitious king with such 
 terror that he raised the siege,' and, when he returned to 
 France, persuaded the Bishop of Saragossa to allow him to 
 bring the precious relic with him.^ To receive the blessed 
 garment and other relics he built a monastery and church 
 on this site, and on December 23, 558, the church was 
 consecrated as the Basilica of S. Vincent and S. Croix by 
 S. Germain, Bishop of Paris, who was buried within its 
 walls in 576, after which it was called S. Germain and S. 
 Vincent,, and was known from its splendour as ' the golden 
 basilica.' As the burial-place of Merovingian kings the 
 monastery soon became rich and celebrated. Its estates 
 included the whole south bank of the Seine, from the 
 Petit Pont in Paris to Sevres. The kings Childebert L, 
 Caribert, Chilperic I., Clotaire II., Childeric II. ; the 
 Queens IJltrogothe, Fredegonde, Berlrude, and Bilihilde ; 
 the Merovingian princes Clovis and Dagobert ; with Chro- 
 desinde and Chrotberge, daughters of Childebert I., were 
 interred within its walls ; and here many of their bodies 
 were seen lying on beds of spices, wrapped in precious 
 stuffs embroidered in gold, when their plain stone-cofifins 
 were opened at the Revolution.^ In 861 the monastery 
 was burnt by the Normans, ^ was restored, and destroyed 
 again in 886. The existing church, begun by the twenty- 
 
 ^ Gregorj' of Tours, iii. 2Z. ' Gesta Regvm Francorum, xxvi. 
 
 ^ What remains of their tombs is aow at S. Denis. 
 
424 
 
 PARIS 
 
 ninth Abbot, Morardus (990-1019), was only finished in 
 the following century, and was dedicated by Pope Alex- 
 ander III. in 1163. The tomb of Childebert was then 
 placed in the centre of the present building. From its 
 
 PALACE OF THE ABBOT OF S. GERMAIN DES PEfe. 
 
 riches, the abbacy was usually given to a cardinal, some- 
 times to kings. Up to 1503 the abbots were elected by the 
 monks, but afterwards the Crown insisted on appointing, 
 and Hugues Capet, King of France, and Casimir V. of 
 Poland, were amongst the abbots of S. Germain des Prds. 
 
S. GERMAIN DBS PRAs 425 
 
 The Comte du Vexin, son of Louis XIV. and Mme de 
 Montespan, died as abbot, in the abbey of S. Germain des 
 Pr€s (1683), aged ten and a half years. The abbey (whose 
 first monks were brought from S. Symphorien at Auxerre 
 by S. Germain) long stood isolated in the midst of the 
 meadows called the Prd aux Clercs, fortified on all sides by 
 towers, and by a moat supplied by a canal called la Petite 
 Seine, and entered by three gates. The refectory was one 
 of the noblest works of Pierre de Montereau (1240) — a 
 vaulted hall, 115 feet long by 32 feet wide, lighted on each 
 side by sixteen stained windows, and possessing a beautiful 
 reader's-pulpit : ' portde sur un gros cul-de-lampe chargd 
 d'an grand cep de vigne coup6 et fouill^ avec une patience 
 incroyable.'^ This hall, and the fatnous and beautiful 
 chapel of Notre Dame, also built by Pierre de Montereau 
 (1239-1255), stood on the site of the present Rue de 
 I'Abbaye, where one of the gables of the refectory still 
 exists, built into a house on the left. On the north of the 
 church were the cloisters, built by Abbot Oddo in 1277. 
 
 The principal entrance of the church is in the Rue 
 Bonaparte. It dates from the XVII. c, but encloses some 
 precious fragments of the XII. c. romanesque portal (altered 
 by a gothic arch), which has a bas-rehef of the Last Supper 
 on its lintel. Till the Revolution there were four statues on 
 either side of the porch, supposed to represent S. Germain, 
 Clovis, Clotilde, Clodomir, Childebert and Ultrogothe, 
 Clotaire and Chilperic. The porch is under the romanesque 
 belfry, which has two round-headed windows on each side 
 of its upper story, and a tall spire covered with slates. Two 
 other towers, less lofty, stood at the angles of the choir and 
 
 * Lebceuf, Hist, de Paris, i. 341. 
 
426 PARIS 
 
 transept, and gave the popular name of ' I'gglise aux trois 
 clochers ' to S. Germain, but were destroyed in 1822 to 
 avoid the expense of their repair : only the bases remain. 
 The choir and apse are surrounded by chapels, some square, 
 some polygonal. Except some capitals and some columns 
 employed in the apsidal gallery, which belonged to the 
 church of Childebert, nothing which we see is earlier than 
 the XI. c. 
 
 The interior is an interesting specimen of transition. 
 The arches of the nave, which has no triforium, are roman- 
 esque, of the time of the Abbot Morardus ; the choir was 
 added by Abbot Hugues III. in 1163. The original capi- 
 tals of the nave were carried to the Palais des Thermes by 
 the absurdity of a 'restoration,' in 1824, and replaced here 
 by copies, which, however, have not the slightest resem- 
 blance to them. A polychrome decoration by Hippolyte 
 Flandrin, though its pictures are admirable as works of art, 
 has, since 1845, spoilt the interior of S. Germain. The 
 XIII. c. statue of Childebert and the mosaic monument of 
 Fredegonde, preserved by Alexandre Lenoir at the Revolu- 
 tion, are now at S. Denis ; the tombs of S. Germain, Chil- 
 peric,' and Bilihilde were destroyed. Very few objects of 
 interest remain. In the right aisle near the west door, sur- 
 rounded by burning lights, is the statue of Notre Dame la 
 Blanche, given to the abbey of S. Denis by Queen Jeanne 
 d'Evreux in 1340, and brought here after the Revolution. 
 The chapel of S. Symphorien (the last on the south of the 
 nave), consecrated by S. Francois de Sales in 16 19, replaces 
 that where S. Germain was originally buried. In the chapel of 
 S. Marguerite, in the transept, are a statue of S. Marguerite 
 
 ' Which had the simple inscription : * Rex Chilpericus hoc tegitur lapide.* 
 
5. GERMAIN DES PRES 4:7 
 
 by Jacques Bourlet, monk of the abbey, and the tomb of 
 OHvier and Louis de Castellan, killed in the service of the 
 king (1644, 1669), by Girardon. 
 
 The first chapel of the apse contains the tomb of James 
 Douglas (1645), who died in the service of Louis XIII., 
 with his figure on a sarcophagus. A number of the members 
 of thiS' family are buried under the chapel of S. Christophe. ' 
 The second chapel contains the black gravestones (now 
 raised against the wall) of Descartes, Montfaucon and 
 Mabillon, all Benedictine monks of this abbey, after it was 
 incorporated with the congregation of S. Maur. In the 
 third chapel (of SS. Pierre et Paul) left of the choir (in 
 descending) is the inscription which marked the remains 
 of Boileau, transported hither from the Sainte Chapelle in 
 1819. In the fourth, is the tomb of William, Earl of 
 Douglas, 1611, who died in the service of Henri IV. 
 
 ' In the abbey church of S. Germain des Pres at Paris, is the chapel of 
 S. Marguerite, which had been granted to the noble family of Douglas. 
 I have seen the tomb of William, the seventeenth earl, who died 
 in 161 1. He had been bred in the new religion, which was preached 
 in that age ; but coming to Paris in the reign of Henry III., he was 
 Converted by sermons at the Sorbonne. Having abjured these errors, 
 he returned to Scotland. Though full of piety towards God and of 
 fidelity towards his king, he was persecuted for the Catholic faith, and 
 was given his choice either of a prison or banishment. He preferred 
 the latter, and returned to France, where he ended his days in the 
 practice of great devotion. He was so given to prayer, that he used 
 to attend the canonical hours of the abbey church, and he used even to 
 rise at midnight, though the doors of the abbey were always shut at 
 matins. He died greatly honoured and reverenced by aU classes, in 
 the fifty-seventh year of his age. ' — Kenelm Dighy, ' Broadstons of 
 Honour.'' 
 
 In the left transept is a striking statue of S. Francis 
 
 * Hisi. de VAbbaye de S. Cermain des Pr^s, p. 213. 
 
428 PARIS 
 
 Xavier by Coustou le jeune, and the tomb of John Casimir, 
 King of Poland, who became abbot of S. Germain in 1669, 
 and died in 1672. The kneeling statue of the king is by 
 Marsy. The relief below, by Jean Thibaut, a Benedictine 
 monk, represents a victory over the Turks. In the left aisle 
 of the nave is a good modern monument erected to Hippo- 
 lyte Flandrin (1864) by his pupils and admirers. 
 
 The columns which supported a baldacchino over the 
 high-altar, and which were brought from the ruins of a 
 Roman town in Africa in the time of Louis XIV., are now 
 part of the decorations of the picture-gallery of the Louvre. 
 Nothing remains of the splendid shrine of S. Germain, which 
 contained 160 precious stones and 197 pearls. 
 
 When Henri IV. was besieging Paris in 1589, and his 
 army was encamped in the Prd aux Clercs, he wished to ex- 
 amine Paris unobserved, and mounted the tower of S. Ger- 
 main, accompanied by a single monk. ' Une apprehension 
 m'a saisi,' he said, when he came down, to the Mardchal 
 de Biron, '^tant seul avec un moine, et me souvenant du 
 couteau de frfere Clement' 
 
 The precious library of S. Germain des Prds was spared 
 at first in the Revolution, but perished by fire August 19, 
 1794, except 10,000 MS., which were added to the Biblio- 
 thfeque Nationale. 
 
 In the garden attached to the church, towards the Bou- 
 levard S. Germain, is a Statue of Bernard Palissy by Barras 
 (1880). 
 
 It was only in the middle of the present century that the 
 twelve monastic cells were destroyed which were devoted 
 to monks employed in hterary labour. There it was that 
 Jordan visited the learned Montfaucon in 1733, and found 
 
PRISON DE L'ABBA YE 429 
 
 him 'un vieillard octogenaire, plein de politesse et d'hon- 
 netet^, d'une humeiir douce et gaie,' occupied over some 
 old Greek MSS. which had just arrived. 
 
 The abbot's palace, built by Cardinal de Bourbon in 
 1586, still exists in the Rue de VAbbaye, opposite the Rue 
 de Furstemberg. A mutilated cardinal's hat may still be 
 seen on a shield on the pavilion at the angle. 
 
 ' L'architecture en briques et pierres, decoree de refends, de 
 pilastres et de frontons, a le roerite de plaiie aux yeux par rharmonie 
 de ses cquleurs et par le pittoresque de ses dispositions. Au sommet 
 d'un pavilion, une femme assise tient un ecusson aux armes du fonda- 
 teur. L'edifice est habite, en majeure partie, par des artisans et des 
 industriels. En avant du palais abbatial, des bailments tr^s-simples et 
 oonservfe en partie servaient d'^curies, de grenieis, d'appartements 
 pour les ofificiers de la maison, d'auditoire pour le bailli, &c. ' — F. de 
 Gmlhermy. 
 
 ' Louis XIII. donna k la veuve du due de Lorraine I'Abbaye S. 
 Germain des Pres. Ainsi voila une femme nommee abbesse d'un cou- 
 vent de moines. Je borne Ik mes exemples sur les anciens abus.' — 
 Du/aure. 
 
 The Boulevard S. Germain has swallovred up the site of 
 the Prison de I'Abbaye, rebuilt in the XVII. c. at the south- 
 east angle of the enclosure. Here Mine Roland wrote her 
 memoirs, and Charlotte Corday spent her last days. The 
 prison is also connected with some of the most agonising 
 scenes of the Revolution, especially during the massacres of 
 September. It existed, as a mihtary prison, till 1854. 
 
 ' Le dimanche 2 septembre, notre guichetier servit notre diner plus 
 tot que de coutume ; son air effar6, ses yeux hagards nous firent 
 presumer quelque chose de sinistra. A deux heures, il rentra, nous 
 l*entourames ; il fut sourd k toutes nos questions, et apr^s qu'il eut, 
 contre son ordinaire, ramasse tous les couteaux que nous avions soin de 
 placer dans nos serviettes, il fit sortir brusquement la garde-malade de 
 rofiScier Suisse Reding. 
 
43° 
 
 PARIS 
 
 ' Si ce guichetier n'eut pas ete instruit de ce qui allait arriver, 
 pourquoi ces precautions? Un ofHcier municipal avait auparavant 
 pris les noms des prisonniers, et c'^tait au milieu de la nuit que cette 
 liste avait et^ faite. 
 
 ' Les prisons entour^es, quatre ou cinq de ces mis&ables, prenant 
 le nom de juges du peuple, s'installent k c8te du guichet et font com- 
 paraitre les prisonniers devant eux. 
 
 ' A la lueur de deux torches, j'aperfois le terrible tribunal qui va me 
 donner la vie ou la mort. Le president, en habit gris, un sabre a son 
 c6te, est appuy^ debout centre une table sur laquelle on voit des papiers, 
 une fcritoire, des pipes, et quelques bouteilles. Cette table est 
 entouree par dix personnes assises ou debout, dont deux sont en veste 
 et en tablier ; d'autres dorment ^tendus sur des bancs ; deux hommes 
 en chemises teintes de sang, le sabre k la main, gardent la porte du 
 guichet ; un vieux guichetier a la main sur les verrous. En presence 
 du president trois hommes tiennent un prisonnier qui paralt age de 
 soixante ans. 
 
 ' On me place dans un coin du guichet, mes gardiens croisent leurs 
 sabres surma poitrine, en m'avertissant que si je fais le moindre mouve- 
 ment pour m'evader, ils me poignarderont. 
 
 ' Ces hommes qui boivent, qui fument, qui dorment au milieu des 
 cris de leurs semblables impitoyablement egorges, au milieu des fureurs 
 de ceux dont la soif du sang s'accrolt k mesure qu'ils en voient re- 
 pandre davantage, presentent un tableau encore inconnu dans I'histoire 
 du cceur humain. Je ne croispas quepersonne ait, avant notre revolu- 
 tion, assist^ k un pareil spectacle. 
 
 ' Ces juges avaient une liste de tous les prisonniers avec leurs 
 ecrous, contenant les motifs de leur detention k c6te de leurs noms ; les 
 membres du comite de surveillance de la commune, les munlcipaux ou 
 autres personnes initiees dans ces affreux mysteres avaient ajout^ des 
 notes plus ou moins funestes, qui indiquaient k ces juges-bourreaux la 
 conduite qu'ils avaient k tenir. Apres un court interrogatoire, dont on 
 se dispensait souvent, surtout lorsqu'il ^tait question de quelques mal- 
 heureux pretres non sernientfe, les deux assassins k la garde desquels 
 on les avait confies les poussaient dans la rue en criant : A la Force 1 
 si c'etait a I'Abbaye qu'ils etaient juges, et : A PAbbaye ! s'ils devaient 
 etre massacres a la Force ; et ils tombaient au milieu des sabres, des 
 piques, des massues qui les assommaient et les mutilaient tous k la fois 
 de la maniere la plus horrible. ... 
 
 ' A dix heures du soir, I'abbe I'Enfant, confesseur du roi, et I'abbe 
 Chapt de Rastignac parurent dans la tribune ije la chapelle qui nous 
 
PRISON DE L' ABBA YE 431 
 
 servait de prison, et dans laquelle ils ^taient entres par une porte qui 
 donne sur I'escalier. lis nous annonc^rent cjue notre derni^re heure 
 approchait, et nous invitirent k nous recueillir pour recevoir leur 
 benediction. Un mouvement ^lectrique qu'on ne peut definir nous 
 
 precipita tous k genoux, et, les mains jointes, nous la reyflmes 
 
 A la veille de paraltre devant I'^tre supreme, agenouilles devant deux 
 de ses ministres, nous presentions un spectacle indefinissable : I'age de 
 ces deux vieillards, leur position au-dessus de nous, la mort planant sur 
 nos t^tes et nous environnant de toute part, tout repandait surcette cer^- 
 monie une teinte auguste et lugubre ; elle nous rapprochait de la 
 divinity, elle nous rendait le courage ; tout raisonnement etait suspendu, 
 et Ic plus froid et le plus incredule en rejut autant d'impression que le 
 plus ardent et le plus sensible. Une demi-heure apres, les deux pr6tres 
 furent massacres, nous entendtmes leurs oris. . . . 
 
 ' Notre occupation la plus importante etait de savoir quelle serait la 
 position que nous devions prendre pour recevoir la mort le moins 
 douloureusement, quand on nous conduirait dans le lieu des massacres. 
 Nous envoyions de temps k autre quelques-uns de nos camarades a la 
 fenctre de la tourelle, pour nous instruire de celle que prenaient les 
 malheureux qu'on immolait, et pour calculer, d'apr^s leur rapport, 
 celle que nous ferions bien de prendre ; ils rapportaient que ceux qui 
 etendaient leurs mains souffraient beaucoup plus longtemps, parce que 
 les coups de sabre etaient amortis avant de porter sur la tete ; qu'il y 
 en avait m^me dont les bras et les mains tombaient avant le corps, et 
 que ceux qui les plafaient derriere le dos devaient souffrir beaucoup 
 moins: tels Etaient les horribles details sur lesquels nous deliberions.' 
 Saint- Miard, 'Relation des massacres de Sep/embre,' 
 
 ' Les massacres continuerent k I'Abbaye du dimanche au soir au 
 mardi matin ; a la Force, davantage ; i Bicetre, quatre jours, &c. Je 
 dois k mon sejour actuel dans la premiere de ces prisons d'avoir pris 
 des details qui font fremir et que je n'ai pas le courage de tracer. Mais 
 une anecdote que je ne passerai point sous silence, parce qu'elle 
 concourt a demontrer que c'etait un projet bien li^, c'est qu'y ayant 
 dans le faubourg S. Germain une maison de dep&t ou I'on met les 
 detenus que I'Abbaye ne peut recevoir quand elle renferme trop de 
 monde, la police choisit, pour les transferer, le dimanche au soir, 
 I'instant d'avant le massacre general : les assassins etaient pr^ts ; ils se 
 jeterent sur les voitures ; il y avait cinq ou six fiacres, et a coups de 
 sabres et de piques ils percerent, ils tuerent ceux qui les remplissaient, 
 au milieu de la rue, au bruit terrible de leurs cris douloureux. Tout 
 Paris fut timoin de ces horribles scenes, executees par un petit hombre 
 
432 PARIS 
 
 de bourreaux (ils n'^taient pas quinze k I'Abbaye, k la porte de 
 laquelle etaient, pour toute defense, malgre les requisitions faites k la 
 commune et au commandant, deux gardes nationaux). Tout Paris 
 laissa faire .... tout Paris fut maudit k mes yeux, et je n'esp^rai 
 plus que la liberty s'etabltt parmi des laches, insensibles aux derniers 
 outrages qu'on puisse faire k la nature, k Thumanite ; froids spectateurs 
 d'attentats que le courage de cinquante hommes armes aurait facile- 
 ment empeches.' — Bertrand de Moleville, ' ^nnales.' 
 
 A little south, by the Rtte du Four, we find the Carre- 
 four de la Croix Rouge, a spot where six streets now meet, 
 but which, in the XVI. c, was considered the extreme limit 
 of the town towards the country. The Rue du Cherche- 
 Midi commemorates in its name a sundial with a represen- 
 tation of two persons looking for noon at two o'clock : at 
 No. 19 (left) a quaint relief represents this. No. 37 (left) is 
 the old Hdtel de Toulouse, with a noble gateway. The Rue 
 du Dragon was formerly the Rue S. S^pulcre. 
 
 Returning to the Carrefour de la Groix Rouge, we find 
 near the entrance of the Rue de Sfevres, on the right, the 
 Abbaye aux Bois, belonging to a convent of nuns of Notre 
 Dame des Bois. The church has a Madonna and Dead 
 Christ by Lebrun. In this convent the great ladies of the 
 faubourg were in the habit of going into retreat in the last 
 century, but rather to enjoy the interests of a kind of literary 
 clab than for religious exercises. Then, also, the Abbaye 
 aux Bois was the most fashionable place of female education 
 in Paris. The Journal of H^lfene Massalska, Princesse de 
 Ligne, shows how the noble young ladies were then taught 
 to be efficient mistresses of a household by themselves 
 learning cooking, washing, housemaid's work, &c., in the 
 convents. In later days, owing to want of ready money, 
 the convent has sold several of its exterior apartments. 
 Mme Rdcamier inhabited three different apartments there 
 
RUE DU BAC 433 
 
 at three dififerent times ; Mrs. Clark and her daughter, after- 
 wards the well-known Mme Mohl, went to live there in 
 1831 ; and here Chateaubriand read aloud his Memoires 
 d' Outre- Tombe, before their publication, desiring, in his life- 
 time, ' escompter les louanges ' which he expected, but hardly 
 received. 
 
 Turning (right) down the Rue du Bac, on the left (No. 
 138) is \k\Q Hospice des Menages, formerly des Petites Maisons, 
 instituted in 1407, and renewed in the XVII. c. It is used 
 for old people. The chapel, open from 2 to 3, and pictur- 
 esque with its many kneeling sisters, contains many inscrip- 
 tions, the oldest of 1587. The Rue du ^air takes its name 
 from a ferry-boat (Bac), formerly established at its extremity, 
 for crossing the Seine. 
 
 At No. 120 was the well-known salon of Mme Mohl, 
 who died here in February 1882. Chateaubriand lived on 
 the ground floor, and his last days were spent here. 
 
 ' M. de Chateaubriand, like an old oak struck by lightning, beauti- 
 ful in its decay, sat, seemed to listen, and smiled when one of his old 
 favourites entered. Mme R^camier went to him every day at the 
 hour he used to go to her. Though blind and nervous, she never 
 missed a day in coming to the Rue du Bac. Since her blindness she 
 had been unable to walk in the street, and as the coaches were in 
 danger [1848] of being taken and piled up for barricades, the drivers 
 were unwilling to go out. 
 
 ' Before the terrible days of June, M. de Chateaubriand had taken 
 to his bed, to rise no more. Mme R^camier would leave the room 
 to conceal her tears. His eyes followed her, but he scarcely ever spoke ; 
 not once after extreme unction had been administered. She could not 
 see him, and his silence seemed cruel. She dreaded his dying in the 
 night, when it might be impossible to send for her in time, and it was a 
 comfort to her that he had a friend living upstairs [Mme Mohl] who could 
 give her a room, where she spent three nights. On the morning of July 3, 
 at about seven, she was called down ; in about an hour all was over. 
 
 ' The current of her life was dried up. She wished for nothing in 
 the world but to be good enough to die.' — Mms Mohl, ' Mme Rkamier.' 
 
 F F 
 
434 PARIS 
 
 No 128 Rue du Bac, at the angle of the Rue de Baby- 
 lone, is the Missions Eiranglres, with the Church of S. Fran- 
 fois Xavier, containing (left of entrance) a monument to 
 'thirteen venerable servants of God,' including Bishops 
 Dufresse and Dumouhn Bori6 and nine Chinese mission- 
 aries, beheaded and strangled in Cochin China, 1815-1840 ; 
 also the monument of Jean Th^ophane Venard, beheaded at 
 Tong-King, February 2, 1861. A little garden, on the right 
 of the church, leads to La Chambre des Martyrs, surrounded 
 by terrible memorials of the tortures suffered by the martyred 
 missionaries, the bloodstained clothes in which they died, 
 and curious Chinese pictures of their executions. 
 
 No. 140 (left) Rue du Bac, is the Hotel du Chatillon, 
 built by Mansart, and has two very rich portals. On the 
 opposite side of the street is the huge shop of the -5i9« 
 Marche, a very characteristic sight of modern Paris. 
 
 We are now in the centre of the last-century hotels of 
 the aristocratic faubourg. ' Faire monter un hotel ' was the 
 ambition of every Frenchman of good family before the 
 great Revolution. Then, when the aristocracy were forbidden 
 to have armorial bearings of any kind, they plastered over 
 those above their doors, and put a veil of paint upon those of 
 their carriages, as if to indicate that the existing season was 
 only one of passing cloud. Indeed, one nobleman, who 
 feared that his conduct might be misunderstood, inscribed 
 as his device instead, ' Ce nuage n'est qu'un passage.' But 
 almost all the aristocratic characteristics of the Faubourg 
 are now a tale of the past. 
 
 ' Le faubourg Saint Germain n'est plus b. cette heure qu'un nom, 
 le nom d'une ruine, le nom d'une chose morte. II n'a plus ni caractere 
 ni accent qui lui soient propres. II ne garde plus d'autres superiorites 
 que celle qu'il partage avec la bourgeoisie,' — Daniel Stern, 
 
h6tel DE LUYNES 43S 
 
 There is very little variety in the characteristics of the 
 h6tels : they have almost all the same curtain wall in front, 
 with either a double or single Jiorie-cocMre, and are adorned 
 with caryatides, pilasters, and garlands, of much the same 
 description. They will be of little interest to passing tra- 
 vellers. We will note the best, only retracing our steps 
 where it cannot be avoided. 
 
 The Rue du Bac now crosses the Jiue de Varennes, a long 
 street, in which we may notice No. 53 as the Hdiel Monaco 
 or Hotel de Maiignon, built by Brongniart for Madame 
 Adflaide, sister of Louis Philippe, and belonging now to 
 the Due de Galliera ; General Cavaignac resided here 
 when head of the executive power in 1848. No. 69 is the 
 Hotel d'Orsay. No. 77 is the XVIII. c. Hotel de Biron, 
 built for Peirfene de Moras, a barber enriched by legal 
 speculations. No. 78 was erected by the Regent d'Orldans 
 for the actress Desmares, and was afterwards used as the 
 Ministfere de Commerce. Into the Rue de Varennes on the 
 left falls the Rue Vanneau, where No. 14 (right) is a restored 
 house of the time of Francois I., and No. 24 is the Hotel 
 de Canaleilles. 
 
 Continuing the Rue du Bac, it is crossed by the Jiue de 
 ■Grenelle, where, a few steps to the right, is the handsome 
 Fontaine de Grenelle, constructed (1739-43) for Louis XV, 
 Its reliefs and figures are by Bouchardon, 
 
 We must see more of the Rue de Grenelle, but, for an 
 instant, continue the Rue du Bac to the Boulevard S. Ger- 
 main, where, immediately on the south is the Hotel de 
 Luynes, which was built by Pierre Lemuet for Marie Rohan- 
 Montbazon, Duchesse de Chevreuse. Its gates are very 
 handsome specimens of iron- work. 
 
 K F 2 
 
436 PARTS 
 
 ' Cette belle demeure appartient encore k la famille de Luynes ; 
 mieux que toute autre elle rappelle ces anciens h6tels ou les grands 
 seigneurs d'autrefois, protecteurs nes des arts, se plaisaient k reunir des 
 livres, des tableaux et des curiosites de toute esptee.' — De Guilhermy. 
 
 Opposite the Hotel de Luynes is the approach to the 
 
 Church of S. Thomas Aquinas which answers, as a temple 
 
 of Hymen in Paris, to what S. George's, Hanover Square, 
 
 was till recently in London. It belonged to the convent of 
 
 'Jacobins du Faubourg S. Germain,' founded by Cardinal 
 
 Richelieu, and was built (1682-1770) from designs of Pierre 
 
 Bullet. Of later construction, by Frbre Claude, a monk of 
 
 the convent, in 1787, is the portal, before which republican 
 
 France generally affords a few spectators ' pour voir monter 
 
 et descendre des duchesses.' The ceiling of the sanctuary 
 
 representing the Transfiguration, is a great work oi Lemoine. 
 
 ' La plus grande partie des demoiselles bien Sevres se soumettent 
 k I'hymen sans que I'amour s'en mSle, et elles n'en sont pas fachees. 
 EUes sentent que c'est par le mariage qu'elles sont quelque chose dans le 
 monde ; et c'est pour etre etablies, pour avoir un etat qu'elles se marient. 
 Elles semblent sentir qu'un mari n'a pas besoin d'etre amant. A Paris 
 ce m^me esprit regne parmi les hommes, et voilk pourquoi la plupart 
 des mariages sont des liens de convenance. Les Fran9ais sont jaloux 
 de leurs maitresses, et jamais deleurs femmes.' — Casanova, ' Mimoires.' 
 
 (The Boulevard S. Germain has swallowed up a great 
 part of the Rue S. Dominique, but some of the street still 
 remains. Its most noticeable houses are No. 62, I'lTdtel de 
 la £)ttchesse douairiire d' Orleans, once inhabited by Cam- 
 bac6rbs ; No. 113, the Hotel de Grammoni, and No. 115, 
 the Hdtel de Perigord, of Prince Demidoff.) 
 
 The Rue du Bac next crosses the Hue de /' Universite, 
 where, a little to the right. No. 15, is a-good XVII. c. hotel, 
 and No. 13, the Hdtel d'Aligri, now a museum of marine 
 charts. 
 
5. CLOTILDE 437 
 
 Returning, as we came, to the Rue de Grenelk, we should 
 now follow it (turning right) to the end. No. 106 (right) 
 was the old convent of Notre Dame de Pentemont or du 
 Verbe Incarne, founded 1643 ; its admirable domed chapel 
 remains. Mme de Beauharnais, afterwards the Empress 
 Josephine, lived for several years in this convent, after the 
 birth of her daughter Hortense. No. 101 (left), the ancient 
 Hdtel Conti, is now the Ministfere des Postes. No. 116 
 (right), the Hotel Sorbin, Janson, or de Brissac, has a fine 
 entrance : it is now the Mairie du VII™« Arrondissement. 
 
 The Rue Casimir Pdrier leads (right) to the Church of S. 
 Clotilde, a large cruciform gothic building erected in 1846- 
 1857, from plans of Gau. The design of building this church 
 (in the place of a little church dedicated to S. Valfere) 
 originated with Queen Marie Am^Iie. The interior is ex- 
 ceedingly handsome. In the apse are a number of reliefs 
 representing the story of S. Clotilde. The Place de Belle- 
 chasse, in which the church stands, occupies part of the Prd 
 aux Clercs, the jurisdiction of which was long disputed by 
 the University and the Abbey of S. Germain. 
 
 The last cross street of the Rue de Grenelle is the Rue 
 de Bourgogne, in which, at the angle of .the Rue S. Domini- 
 que, is the Hotel Btranger, where Adrienne Lecouvreur was 
 buried by some faithful friends, the offices of the Church 
 having been refused to her. 
 
 At the end of the Rue de Grenelle, on the right, is 
 (No. 142) the XVIII. c. Hotel de Bezenval ; and on the 
 left (No. 12^)1116 HSteldu Chdtclet, of the time of Louis XV., 
 now the Palais Archiepiscopal. 
 
 We emerge from the Rue de Grenelle opposite the 
 gardens to the north of the magnificent Hdtel des Invalides 
 
438 PARIS 
 
 (open daily from 1 1 to 4), planned by Henri IV., and begun 
 by Louis XIV. in 16 71, as a refuge for old soldiers, who, 
 before it was built, had to beg their bread in the streets. 
 
 ' L'hotel des Invalides, ceuvre de I'architecte Lib&al Bruant, 
 repond, par son caract^re et son ornementisme tout militaire, ^ sa noble 
 destination. II fut acheve dJs 1674. On n'acheva que trente ans 
 apris I'^glise, qui fut commenc^e par Bruant et termin^e par Mansart. 
 Cast i celui-ci qu'on doit le dome couvert d'azur et d'or et surmonte ■ 
 d'une fl^che bardie, qui est un des plus beaux ornements de Paris. Les 
 details et les ornements du d8me attestent trop la decadence du goilt, 
 qui devint de moins en moins pur vers la fin du regne ; mais I'aspect 
 general est saisissant, et aucun monument de Paris, Notre Dame 
 exceptee, ne produit de loin un aussi puissant effet.' — Martin, ^ Hist, 
 de France. ' 
 
 ' On sent qu'une nation qui batit de tels palais pour la vieillesse de 
 ses armees a re^u la puissance du glaive, ainsiquele sceptre des arts.' — 
 Chateaubriand. 
 
 ' L'HStel des Invalides est le lieu le plus respectable de la terre. 
 J'aimerais autant avoir fait cet etablissement, si j'etais prince, que 
 d'avoir gagne trcis batailles.' — Montesquieu. 
 
 The institution is under the management of the Minister 
 of War, and nothing can be more comfortable than the life 
 of its inmates. The number of these is now small ; in the 
 time of Napoleon I., when the institution was called the 
 'Temple of Mars,' it was enormous. 
 
 On the terrace in front of the building are a number of 
 cannon, trophies taken in different campaigns. Standing 
 before the hotel is a statue of Prince Eugfene. On either 
 side of the entrance are statues of Mars and Minerva by 
 Coustou jeune. In the tympanum of the semicircle over 
 the centre of the fagade is Louis XIV. on horseback, with 
 the inscription : ' Ludovicus magnus, militibus regali muni- 
 ficentia in perpetuum providens, has aedes posuit, an. 1615.' 
 Behind the fa9ade is a vast courtyard surrounded by open 
 corridors lined with frescoes of the history of France : those 
 
HdTEL DES INVALIDES 
 
 439 
 
 of the early history on the left, by JBenidici Masson, 1865, 
 have much interest. In the centre of the fagade opposite 
 the entrance is a statue of Napoleon I. Beneath this is the 
 approach to the Church of S. Louis, built 1671-79, from de:- 
 signs of Liberal Bruant, and in which many banners of victory 
 give an effect of colour to an otherwise colourless building. 
 
 TOMBEAU NAPOLEON. 
 
 ' II y a Ik des drapeaux enleves aux legions de toute I'Europe 
 durant la revolution et I'empire. En 1814, Iss allies courarent \ ce 
 temple de la gloire pour ressaisir les gages de leurs longues et nom- 
 breuses dcfaites ; mais les vieux guerriers que Napoleon en avait 
 rendus gardiens, surent les soustraire a cette recherche. " Si nous ne 
 pouvons comerver ces bannieres," avaient dit les invalides, " nous les 
 brulerons et en avalerons les cendres." '-^Touchard-Lafosse, 'Hist, de 
 Paris.'' 
 
 Against the walls are monuments to marshals or 
 governors of the Invalides — the Due de Coigny, Due de 
 
440 • . PARIS 
 
 Conegliano (Moncey), Due de Reggio (Oudinot), Marshal 
 Jourdan, Due de Malakoff (Pdlissier), &e. 
 
 The Tombeau Napoleon, under the magnificent dome of 
 the Invalides, which was added to the original church by 
 Jules Hardouin Mansart, and is treated as a separate build- 
 ing, is entered from the Place Vauban at the back, or by the 
 left cloister and a court beyond. It is only open to the 
 pubhc on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, from 
 T2 to 3, but should on no account be left unseen. On the 
 fagade are statues of Charlemagne by Coysevox, and S. 
 Louis by Nicolas Coustou. 
 
 On entering the vast interior, a huge circular space 
 is seen to open, beneath the cupola painted by Charles 
 de Lafosse and Jouvenet, and, in it, surrounded by cary- 
 atides and groups of mouldering banners, the huge tomb of 
 Finland granite, given by the Emperor Nicholas. Hither 
 the remains of the great Emperor were brought back from 
 S. Helena by the Prince de Joinville, in 1841, though Louis 
 Philippe, whilst adopting this popular measure as regarded 
 the dead, renewed the sentence of exile against the living 
 members of the Bonaparte family. 
 
 ' Sur le couvercle brillalt en assez grandes lettres ce nom : NafoUon. 
 " En quel metal sont ces lettres? dis-je au maitre." II me repondait : 
 " En cuivre, mais on las dorera. " " Ilfaut,"repris-je, " que ces lettres 
 soient en or. Avant cent ans, les lettres de cuivre seront oxyd^es et 
 auront ronge le bois du cerceuil. Combien les lettres en or coflteraient- 
 elles k rdtat?" "Environ vingt mille francs, monsieur." Le soir 
 meme j'allai chez M. Thiers, alors president du conseil, et je lui dis la 
 chose. " Vous avez raison," me dit M, Thiers, "les lettres seront 
 en or, je vais en donner I'ordre." Trois jours apres, le traite du 15 
 juillet a (delate ; je ne sais si M. Thiers a donne les ordres, si on les 
 a executes, et si les lettres qui sont aujourd'hui sur le cercueil sont 
 des lettres d'or. ' — Victor Hugo, ' Chases •vttes. ' 
 
 Four smaller cupolas encircle the great dome. In the 
 
HOTEL DES INVALIDES 441 
 
 first, on the right, is the tomb of Joseph Bonaparte. On the 
 left are the tombs of Jerome Bonaparte, with a statue, and 
 of his eldest son and the Princess Catherine of Wurtemberg. 
 The other two cupolas are still empty : when ever-changing 
 France again changes her idols, and the dynasty of the 
 Bonapartes is once more in the ascendant, they will probably 
 be occupied, amid universal acclamation, by the tombs 
 of Napoleon III. and his ill-fated and heroic son. 
 
 The transept contains the tomb of Turenne (formerly 
 buried at S. Denis), by Tubi from designs of Lebrun. It 
 represents the hero expiring (at the battle of Salzbach, July 
 27, 1675) in the arms of Immortahty. Upon the violation 
 of the tombs at S. Denis, the body of Turenne had been found 
 in a state of complete preservation, and, whilst the royal re- 
 mains were scattered to the winds, his were removed to the 
 Jardin des Plantes and afterwards to the Museum of the Petits 
 Augustins. Napoleon, as first Consul, translated them with 
 great honour to the Invalides, September 22, 1800. In the 
 left transept is the tomb to which the remains of the illus- 
 trious Vauban were afterwards transferred. The minister 
 Louvois, under whose auspices the hotel was built, was 
 buried here by order of Louis XIV. in 1692, but afterwards 
 removed to the Capucines of the Rue S. Honors. 
 
 Descending the steps behind the splendid baldacchino, 
 we find black-marble tombs of Marshals Duroc and Bertrand 
 guarding the approach to that of Napoleon I. His Own 
 words, taken from his will, appear in large letters over the 
 entrance. 
 
 ' Je desire que mes cendres reposent sur les bords de la Seine, au 
 milieu de ce peuple Francois que j'ai tant aime. ' 
 
 The sentiment, the tomb, and the dome have a unique 
 
442 PARIS 
 
 splendour. A white-marble statue of Napoleon I. by Stuart 
 is in a black-marble chapel. His Austerlitz sword, the 
 crown voted by Cherbourg, and colours taken in his dif- 
 ferent battles, were formerly shown in a chapelle ardente. 
 
 ' Otez le dSme, et les Invalides ne sont plus qu'une caserne, un 
 cloJtre, un hospice. Le dSme en fait un palais, un temple, mieux que 
 cela. Si, \ present, il y a des personnes qui ne comprennent pas bien 
 a quoi sert le d6me des Invalides, pour I'argent qu'il a coflte, qu'ils aillent 
 le demander 'k ces vieux martyrs des batailles, dont il est comme la 
 resplendissante aureole, ils repondront avec orgueil : "II sert 4 etre 
 beau ! " — Emik Deschamps. 
 
 The Musee d'Artillerie, entered from the cloister on the 
 right of the principal court, is only shown on Tuesdays, 
 Thursdays, and Sundays, from 12 to 4 in winter, and 
 12 to 5 in summer. 
 
 The collection of arms begins with the rude flint weapons 
 found in the valley of the Somme, and the caverns of Auri- 
 gnac and Moustier. Then comes the age of polished-flint 
 weapons, found in the lake cities of Switzerland, &c. The 
 age of bronze succeeds, of which one of the finest specimens 
 is a bronze sword found at Uzes. The arms introduced by 
 the Romans follow, and the gradual changes which led to 
 the steel armour of the XIV. c. The collection of bows 
 and cross-bows is full of interest, as well as that of firearms 
 frcm their earliest infancy. 
 
 The collection of plans of fortresses, in relief, executed 
 under Louis XIV. and Louis XV., is interesting to the 
 archaeologist as showing (as at Arras, S. Omer, Besangon) 
 many buildings of the middle ages which have ceased to 
 exist. Amongst the historic arms preserved here are the 
 helmet of Henri IV., the sword of Duguesclin, and the 
 cuirass of Bayard. 
 
PALAIS DU CORPS LE CIS LA TIF 443 
 
 The great barracks behind the Invahdes formerly con- 
 tained the military school now at S. Cyr. They face the 
 end of the Champ de Mars, an immense open oblong space 
 used for reviews and temporarily occupied by the great 
 Exhibitions of 1867 and 1878. It was formed in 1790 for 
 the famous Fete de la F^d^ration (July 14), when the Autel 
 de la Patrie was erected in the centre and Louis XVI. took 
 an oath there to observe the new constitution. 
 
 Here also Napoleon I. held the famous Champs de Mai 
 before the battle of Waterloo. 
 
 ' Le Champ de Mai avait eu cela de remarqiiable qu'il avait ete 
 tenu au mois de juin et au Champ de Mars. ' — Victor Hugo. 
 
 At the entrance of the Quai d'Orsay (No. 103) is the 
 temporary Garde-Meuble (open on Sundays and Thursdays 
 from 10 to 4), containing a vast collection of tapestries, 
 curious furniture, and jewels which belonged to the Crown. 
 Many of the latter were put up to public auction in 1887. 
 Amongst the jewels reserved is the diamond known as 
 ' Le Regent,' purchased by Regent Philippe d'Orl^ans, and 
 valued at 12,000,000 fr. 
 
 Returning by the Quai d'Orsay, on the site formerly 
 called La Grenouillifere, we find, opposite the Pont des 
 Invalides, the Manufacture des Tabacs, shown on Thursdays 
 only from 10 to 12 and i to 4. It employs 200 workpeople, 
 and manufactures 6,200 tons of tobacco annually. 
 
 Near the Pont de Solferino is the Palais de la Ltgion 
 d'Honneur, built (1786) by Prince Salm-Kyrburg, and in- 
 teresting as the scene of Mme de Stael's receptions during 
 the Directory. 
 
 Opposite the Pont de la Concorde is the Palais du Corps 
 Legislatif, or Chambre des Deputes (open from 9 to 5). This 
 
444 PARIS 
 
 palace, originally Palais Bourbon, was built by the Prince 
 de Cond^ (1789), the first Hotel de Gond^, on the site 
 now occupied by the Oddori, and the second hotel, near 
 S. Germain I'Auxerrois, having been destroyed. Confiscated 
 in 1790, it became known as 'Maison de la Revolution.' 
 From 1805 to 1870 it was used as a parliament-house, the 
 State having bought the property from the Prince de Cond^ 
 at the Restoration. It is here that Benjamin Constant, 
 Casimir Perier, Guizot, Thiers, Berryer, Lamartine, Mont- 
 alembert, and Jules Favre, have in turn displayed their 
 eloquence, and it was also vn. the. Salle du Corps Ligislalif 
 that, in 1848, the Duchesse d'Orldans presented herself with 
 her two little boys to claim the regency, and was met by the 
 words ' Too late.' 
 
 ' La large porte qui s'ouvre en face de la tribune a la hauteur des 
 bancs les plus Aleves de la salle, s'ouvre. Une femme paratt, c'est la 
 duchesse d'Orleans. EUe est vStue de deuil. Son voile releve k demi 
 sur son chapeau laisse contempler son visage empreint d'une emotion et 
 d'unetristesse qui en relevant la jeunesse et la beaute. . . . EUe tient 
 de la main droite le jeune roi qui trebuche sur les inarches, et de la 
 main gauche son autre fils le petit due de Chartres, enfants pour qui 
 leur catastrophe est un spectacle. . . . Le due de Nemours marche a 
 c&te de la duchesse d'Orleans, fidMe h. la memoire de son fr^re dans 
 ses neveux. Quelques generaux en uniforme, des officiers de. la garde 
 nationale descendent sur la trace de la princesse. EUe salue avec une 
 grace timide I'assembl^e, immobile ; elle s'asseoit entre ses deux enfants 
 au pied de la tribune, innocente accus^e devant un tribunal sans appel 
 qui vient entendre plaider la cause de la royaat^. Dans ce moment 
 cette cause ^tait gagnee dans les yeux et dans lescceurs de tous.' — 
 Lamartine, ^ RSTiolution de 1S48.' 
 
 The handsome facade towards the Seine has a corinthian 
 
 portico by Poyet (1804-7). When the Chamber is sitting, 
 
 visitors are only admitted to the Salle des Stances, for which 
 
 they require a ticket from a depiity or from the Secretaire de 
 
 la Questure. 
 
445 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 LUXURIOUS MODERN PARIS. 
 
 The Place VendSme and Place de la Concorde. The Chatnfs JElysles 
 and Bois de Boulogne. The Faubourg S. Honori and the 
 Madeleine. 
 
 TURNING west along the Rue de Rivoli, the street— 
 which commemorates the Battle of Rivoli — always 
 wears a festive aspect. On the right are arcades, contain- 
 ing some of the shops most frequented by foreigners ; on 
 the left, railings, formed by gilt-headed spears, enclose the 
 radiant gardens of the Tuileries. 
 
 ' The city swims in verdure, beautiful 
 As Venice on the waters, the sea swan. 
 What bosky gardens, dropped in close-walled courts. 
 As plums in ladies' laps, who start and laugh ; 
 What miles of streets that run on after trees, 
 Still carrying the necessary shops. 
 Those open caskets, with the jewels seen \ 
 And trade is art, and art's philosophy. 
 In Paris.' Mrs. Browning, ' Aurora Leigh.'' 
 
 The Rue S. Rock was, till recently, known as the Rue du 
 Dauphin — a name of historic value. The street was origin- 
 ally closed at night by a grille on the side of the Tuileries, 
 and it was known as Le Cul-de-Sac de S. Vincent till 1 744. 
 Then, Louis XV,, as a boy, spent some time at the Tuileries, 
 and S. Roch being the parish church of the Court, he went 
 
446 PARIS 
 
 thither for his daily devotions. During the first mass which he 
 heard there, the citizens, being good courtiers, scratched out 
 part of the old inscription and altered it, and as the litde 
 prince returned to the palace he read 'Cul-de-Sacdu Dauphin.' 
 The Jiue Mont Thabor crosses the site of the most 
 important of the four convents of Les Capucins at Paris, 
 founded (1575) by Catherine de Medicis. Alfred de Musset 
 died in the Rue Mont Thabor, May i, 1857. 
 
 ' L'insomnie avait ^t^ toujours son ennemi le plus implacable. . . . 
 A une heure apr^s minuit, je le vis tout a coup se dresser sur son s&nt, 
 la main droite pos^e sur sa poitrine, cherchant la place du cceur, comme 
 s'il edt senti dans cet organe quelque trouble extraordinaire. Son visage 
 prit une expression etrange d'^tonnement et d'attention. Ses yeux 
 ouvrirent demesur^ment. Je lui demandai s'il souffrait ; il me fit signe 
 que non. A mes autres questions, il ne repondit que ces mots, en 
 remettant sa tete sur I'oreiller : " Dormir ! , '. . enfin je vais dormir." 
 C'^tait la mort.' — Paul de Musset. 
 
 The Rue de Castiglione — commemorating the victory of 
 Bonaparte over the Austrians (August 5, 1796), and occupy- 
 ing the site of the old monastery of the Feuillants, leads (right) 
 to the Place Vendome, a handsome old-fashioned octagonal 
 square, begun under Louis XIV. (the king himself furnishing 
 the leading ideas of the plan), and finished by the Ville de 
 Paris, from designs of Jules Hardouin Mansart. The square 
 -was first called Place des Conquetes, then Place Louis le 
 Grand, finally Place Vendome, from the H6tel of the Due de 
 Vendome (son of Henri IV. by Gabrielle d'Estrdes), which 
 once occupied this site. A bronze statue by Girardon at 
 first ornamented the centre of the square. It represented 
 Louis XIV. ' in the habit of a Roman emperor, and on his 
 head a large French periwig h la mode.' ' This statue was 
 
 * Lister's Travels in France. 1698. 
 
PLACE VEND 6 ME 447 
 
 destroyed by the people on August 14, 1792 — the day on 
 which Louis XVI. and his family were removed from the 
 Chancellerie in this square to the Temple. ' The king saw 
 this destruction as he passed, but showed no emotion.' ' 
 
 ' Au milieu de la place Vendqme, la voiture du roi fut quelque 
 temps arrfit^e ; on voulait qu'il contemplat i loisir la statue equestre de 
 Louis le Grand, precipit^e de son pi^destal, bris^e par la populace et 
 foulee aux pieds. " Ainsi sont traites les tyrans," criait sans relache 
 cette populace effr^n^e.' — Hue, ' Mhioires.' 
 
 The bronze figures which ornamented the base of the 
 statue are still to be seen in the Louvre. During the 
 Revolution the name of the square was changed to Place 
 des Conquetes, then to Place des Piques. The Colw?in 
 was erected by Napoleon L, in imitation of that of Trajan 
 at Rome, and is covered with bas-reliefs representing his 
 German campaign, from designs of Bergeret, cast from 
 Austrian cannon. At the top was originally placed a 
 statue of the Emperor by Chaudet, which was pulled down 
 after the allies entered Paris and melted down to make 
 part of the second bronze horse of Henri IV. on the Pont 
 Neuf. A second statue by Seurre, made from cannon 
 taken in Algeria (magnanimously erected by Louis Philippe 
 in 1833), was replaced in 1863 by a copy from the first 
 statue by Chaudet. On May 16, 1871, the ridiculous Com- 
 munists threw down the whole column, though it was able 
 to be rebuilt from the fragments (in 1874.) as it is now seen. 
 The height is 135 feet. The proprietor of the Hotel du 
 Rhin had offered the Communists 500,000 fr. if they would 
 spare the column, and those robbers had answered, ' Donnez 
 un million et I'on verra ' ! 
 
 Up to 1870 the railings around, and the base of this 
 
 * Beaulieui Essais historiques. 
 
448 PARIS 
 
 c.olumn in honour of Napoleon, were always hung with 
 wreaths of immortelles : now all is bare, but Parisians are 
 apt to change the historic objects of their idolatry according 
 to — circumstances. 
 
 ' La gloire de Pempire ! . . . . Eh quol ! quand elle est chant^e 
 par des voix comme Victor Hugo, Lamartine, Chateaubriand, Casimir 
 Delavigne, toutes nos somniitfe litteraires, une voix s'eu viendrait 
 murmurer au has des aigles triomphantes de la colonne ! .... "Ah! 
 silence ! silence ! " ' — •Mcmoires de la Duchesse cCAbrantis. 
 
 The Hotel du Rhin was the residence of Napoleon III. 
 as Deputy to the National Assembly in 1848. 
 
 From the Place Vendome the handsome Rue de la 
 Paix (formerly Rue Napoldon), dating from 1807, leads to 
 the Place de I'Opdra. It occupies the site of the convent 
 of the Capucines (founded under Henri IV.), in which 
 Louise de Lorraine, widow of Henry III., Mme de 
 Pompadour, Louvois (minister of war to Louis XIV,), and 
 the Due de Cr^qui, were buried.' 
 
 In the Rue S. Florentin, the Hotel de la Vrillitre, also 
 called Hotel de I'lnfantado, was built for the minister M. 
 de S. Florentin, who gave a name to the street. It was 
 afterwards inhabited by the Spanish grandee who at one 
 time gave a name to the house, then by M. de Talleyrand, 
 who received the Emperor Alexander there in 18 14. 
 
 ' Sans cceur et sans talent, beaucoup de suffisance, 
 
 A la Banque, a la Bourse, escroquant dix pour un, 
 
 Dans ses propos rompus outrageant la decence, 
 
 Tel ^tait autrefois le pontife d'Autun. 
 
 Plus heureux aujourd'hui, sa honte est moins obscure ; 
 
 Froidement, du mipris il affronte les traits ; 
 
 II enseigne le vol et preche le parjure, 
 
 ^ The monument of Queen Louise is now at S. Denis ; that of Louvois, at the 
 hospital of Tonnerre ; that of the Dii'c de Crdqui, at S, Roch. 
 
RUE DE LUXEMBOURG 449 
 
 Et s^me la discorde en annon9ant la paix. 
 
 Sans cesse on nous redit qu'il ne peut rien produire, 
 
 Et que de ses discours il n'est que le lecteur ; 
 
 Mais ce qu'un autre ecrlt, c'est d'Autun qui I'inspire.' 
 
 Mme de Montrond. 
 
 ' C'est I'eveque d'Autun, c'est Charles-Maurice de Talleyrand- 
 Perigord, que nous verrons servir, avec une egale conviction de 
 loyaute, le directoire, le consulat qui renversa le directoire, I'enipire 
 qui renversa le consulat, la restauration qui renversa I'enipire, et la 
 revolution de juillet qui renversa la restauration. II y a de belles 
 immunites de morale pour les convictions d'etat.' — Touchard-Lafosse, 
 * Hist, de Paris, ' 
 
 ' Le palais, qui est d'une noble, riche et morne architecture, s'est 
 appele longtemps H6tel de P Infantado ; aujourd'hui on lit sur le 
 fronton de sa porte principale : Hdtel Talleyrand. 
 
 ' C'^tait un personnage etrange, redoute et considerable : il s'appelait 
 Charles-Maurice de Perigord ; il ^tait noble comme Machiavel ; 
 prgtre comme Gondi, d^froqu^ comme Fouche, spirituel comnie Vol- 
 taire et boiteux comme le diable. On pourrait dire que tout en lui 
 boitait comme lui ; la noblesse qu'il avait faite servante de la republique, 
 la pretrise qu'il avait trainee au Champ d* Mars, puis jetee au 
 ruisseau, le mariage qu'il avait rompu par vingt scandales et par une 
 separation volontaire, I'esprit qu'il deshonorait par la bassesse. 
 
 ' Dans ce palais, comme une araignee dans sa toile, II avait succes- 
 sivement attire et pris heros, penseurs, grands homnies, conquerants, 
 rois, princes, empereurs, Bonaparte, Sieyes, Mme de Stael, Chateau- 
 briand, Benjamin Constant, Alexandre de Russie, Guillaume de Prusse, 
 Francois d'Autriche, Louis XVIIL, Louis Philippe, toutes les mouches 
 dorees et rayonnantes qui bourdonnent dans I'histolre de ces quarante 
 derni^res ann^es. Tout cet ^tincelant essaim, fascine par I'oeil profond 
 de cet homme, avait successivement passe sous cette porte sombre qui 
 porte ecrit sur son architrave: H6tel Talleyrand.' — Victor Hugo, 
 ' Choses vues. ' 
 
 In the Jiue de Luxembourg is the church of L'Assomp- 
 tion, built (1670-76) for a convent of Augustinian nuns, now 
 ajbarrack. • Robespierre lived long opposite this church, at 
 Iro. 396 Rue S. Honors, in the house of the carpenter 
 Duplay (destroyed by the Rue Duphot). All that was 
 
 G G 
 
450 ' PARIS 
 
 human in his character was bestowed upon the family of his 
 
 host : for them chiefly he showed the grimace meant for a 
 
 smile on the pinched countenance which made Mirabeau 
 
 compare him to ' un chat qui a bu du vinaigre.' 
 
 Where the Rue Royale opens towards the Madeleine, 
 
 we pass the Ministere de la Marine et des Colonies, built 
 
 (1760-68) by Gabriel, and gutted during the Commune, and 
 
 reach the Place de la Concorde, stately and beautiful with 
 
 its obelisk, fountains, and statues, its delightful views down 
 
 green avenues to the Louvre on the east and the Arc 
 
 d'Etoile on the west, and towards the magnificent church of 
 
 the Madeleine on the north, and the Chambre des Deputes 
 
 on the south. The square was made under Louis XV., and 
 
 was decorated with his equestrian statue by Bouchardon, 
 
 placed on a pedestal surrounded by bas-reliefs and allegorical 
 
 figures of the Virtues by Pigalle, which immediately drew 
 
 forth the epigram — 
 
 ' Oh ! la belle statue ! oh ! le beau pifedestal ! 
 Les vertus sont a pied, le vice est i cheval. ' 
 
 followed a few days later by — 
 
 ' II est ici comme ^ Versailles ; 
 II est sans cceur et sans entrailles.' 
 
 The Legislative Assembly demolished the statue in 
 the Place Louis XV. (1792), and replaced it by a statue 
 of Liberty. Soon, however, the square took the name of 
 Place de la Revolution, when the expression guillotiner 
 effaced that of lanterner, and, under the Reign of Terror, 
 the scaffold was permanently established here. Thus the 
 most terrible memories of the great Revolution are concen- 
 trated on this spot, where 2,800 persons perished between 
 January 21, 1793, and May 3, 1795. The fountain on the 
 
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE 451 
 
 south side, decorated with figures enlblematic of Marine 
 Navigation, marks the exact spot where Louis XVI. died, 
 January 21, 1793. 
 
 ' Le silence le plus profond regnait de tous cot&. Arrive a la place 
 de la Revolution, le roi recommanda k plusieurs reprises au lieutenant 
 son confesseur, et descendit de la voiture. Aussitot il fut remis entre 
 les mains de I'executeur : il 6ta son habit et son- col lui-meme, et resta 
 convert d'un simple gilet de molleton blanc ; il ne voulait pas qu'on 
 lui coupat les cheveux, et surtout qu'on I'attachat. Quelques mots dits 
 par son confesseur le decid^rent a I'instant. II monta sur I'echafaud, 
 s'avanja du cote gauche, le visage tres-rouge, consid^ra pendant quel- 
 ques minutes les objets qui I'environnaient, et demanda si les tambours 
 ne cesseraient pas de battre ; il voulut s'avancer pour parler ; plusieurs 
 voix crierent aux executeurs, qui etaient au notabre de quatre, de faire 
 leur devoir, Neanmoins, pendant qu'on lui mettait les sangles, il pro- 
 nonf a distinctement ces mots : " Je meurs innocent, je pardonne a mes 
 ennemis, et je d&ire que mon sang soit utile aux Franjais et qu'il apaise 
 la colere de Dieu." A dix heures dix minutes, sa tete fut separee de 
 son corps, et ensuite montr^e au peuple. A I'instant les cris de : 
 " Vive larepublique ! " se firent entendre de toutes parts.' — Les Revohi- 
 tions de Paris. 
 
 ' When they reached the place of execution and they offered to tie 
 his hands, the king resisted and said, 'C'est trop,' but on Mr. Edge- 
 worth's reminding him how acceptable the humiliation would be in the 
 eyes of God, and citing his Saviour's example, he held both his hands 
 out, and suffered them to be tied. When on the scaffold, the trumpets 
 and drums sounded according to their orders, the king bowed, as desir- 
 ing leave to speak. Every instrument ceased ; all was silence and 
 attention. The king said, " I die innocent ; I forgive my enemies, 
 and pray God to avert His vengeance for my blood, and to bless my 
 people." He took two turns on the scaffold, and then prepared him- 
 self for death. Mr. Edgeworth was kneeling by him, and in the excess 
 of feeling had lost all recollection, till he was roused by the words 
 "Me /tead of a traitor," and looking up saw his sovereign's head 
 streaming over him in the monsters' hands.' — -Journal of Miss Ann 
 Porter, Nov, 3, 1796, after meeting the Abbi Edgeworth, confessor of 
 Louis XVI, 
 
 ' Le roi se montra au presence du supplice ce qu'il avait toujours 
 ^te au milieu des hurlements d'une multitude furieuse et sous les out- 
 rages de son emprisonnement. II fut sublime de calme, de resignation, 
 
 G G 2 
 
452 
 
 PARIS 
 
 et de courage. Sa fermete auguste ne I'abandonna, ni pendant ses 
 adieux a la reine et k ses enfants, ni sur !e falte de I'echafaud. II 
 protesta de son innocence et pria Dieu de ne point faire retomber son 
 sang sur la France. Mais sa voix n'arrivait qu'aux oreilles endurcies 
 des soldats qui de toutes parts entouraient I'echafaud.' — Balzac, 'Six 
 mis de France. ' 
 
 ' Est-ce bien le mteie individu, couronn^ et sacre k Rheims, 
 mont^ sur une estrade, environne de tous les grands, tous k ses genoux ; 
 salu^ de mille acclamations, presqu'ador^ coMme un Dieu ; dont la 
 regard, la voix et la geste ^toient autant de commandemens, rassasie de 
 respects, d'honneurs et de jouissances, enfin separe, pour ainsi dire, de 
 I'espice humaine ; est-ce bien le menie homme que je vois bouscule par 
 quatre valets de bourreau, deshabille de force, dont le tambour etouffe 
 la voix, garotte k une planche, se debattant encore ; et recevant si mal 
 le coup de la guillotine, qu'il n'eut pas le col, raais I'occiput et la mS,- 
 choire horriblement coupes ? 
 
 ' Son sang coule ; les cris de joie de quatre-vingt mille hommes 
 armes ont frappe les airs et mon oreille ; ils se repfetent le long des 
 quais ; je vois les ecoliers des quatre-nations qui eUvent leurs chapeaux 
 en I'air ; son sang coule ; c'est k qui y trempera le bout de son doi^t,. 
 line plume, un morceau de papier ; I'un le goute, et dit : // est horrible- 
 ment sale! Un bourreau sur le bord de I'echafaud, vend et distribue 
 des petits paquets de ses cheveux ; onachete le cordon qui les retenait ; 
 chacun emporte un petit fragment de ses vStemens ou un vestige sang- 
 lant de cette scene tragique. J'ai vu d^filcr tout le peuple se tenant sous 
 le bras, riant, causant famili^rement, comme lorsqu'on revient d'une 
 fete. ' — Mercier, ' Le nouveau Paris. ' 
 
 The king was taken to death in a carriage, the queen in 
 a cart 
 
 'II etait midi [l6 octobre, 1793]. La guillotine et le peuple 
 s'impatientaient d'attendre, quand la charrette de Marie- Antoinette arriva 
 sur la place de la Revolution. La veuve de Louis XVI. descendit pour 
 mourir ou ^tait mort son mari. La m^re de Louis XVII. tourna un 
 moment les yeux du cote des Tuileries, et devint plus p&le qu'elle 
 n'avait ^te jusqu'alors. Puis la Reine de France monta a. I'echafaud et 
 se precipita i la mort. ' 
 
 ' Vive la ripuhlique ! ' cria le peuple : c'itait Sanson qui montrait 
 au peuple la t6te de Marie Antoinette, tandis qu'au-dessous de la guillo- 
 tine le gendarme Mingault trempait son mouehoir dans le sang de la 
 martyre.' — Goncourt, 'Hist, de Marie-Antoin'ette.' 
 
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE 453 
 
 On October 31, 1793, the weird death procession of the 
 
 Girondins reached the Place. 
 
 ' Au premier pas hors de la Conciergerie, les Girondins entonnferent 
 d'une seule voix et comme une niarche funebre la premiere strophe de 
 la Marseillaise, en appuyant avec une foergie significative sur ces vers 
 ^ double sens : 
 
 Contre nous de la tyrannie 
 
 L'^tendard sanglant est lev^. 
 
 De ce moment ils cesserent de s'occuper d'eux-mtoes pour ne 
 penser qu'a I'exemple de mort r^publicaine qu'ils voulaient laisser au 
 peuple. Leurs voix ne retombaient un moment a la fin de chaque 
 strophe que pour se relever plus energique et plus retentissante au 
 premier vers de la strophe suivante. Leur marche et leur agonie ne 
 furent qu'un chant. Ils ^talent quatre sur chaque charrette. Une seule 
 en portait cinq. Le cadavre de Valaze etait couche sur la derni^re 
 banquette. La tete d&ouverte, cahotee par les secousses du pave, 
 ballottait sous les regards et sur les genoux de ses amis, obliges de 
 fermer les yeux pour ne pas voir ce livide visage. Ceux-li chantaient 
 oependant comme les autres. Arrives au pied de I'echafaud, ils s'em- 
 brasserent tous en signe de communion dans la Uberte, dans la vie et 
 dans la mort. Puis ils reprirent le chant funebre pour s'animer mutuelle- 
 ment au supplice et pour envoyer, jusqu'au moment supreme, k celui 
 qu'on executait, la voix de ses compagnons de mort. Tous moururent 
 sans faiblesse, Sillery avec ironie ; arrive sur le plate-forme, il en fit le 
 tour en saluant a droite et 4 gauche le peuple, comme pour le remercier 
 de la gloire et de I'echafaud. Le chant baissait d'une voix k chaque 
 coup de hache. Les rangs s'eclaircissaient au pied de la guillotine. 
 Une seule voix continua la Afarseillaise ; c'etait celle de Vergniaud, 
 supplici^ le dernier. Ces notes supremes furent ses derni^res paroles. 
 Comme ses compagnons il ne mourait pas -. il s'evanouissait dans 
 I'enthousiasme, et sa vie, commencee par des discours immortels, 
 finissait par un hymne a I'^ternit^ de la Revolution. 
 
 ' Un meme tomberau emporta les corps decapites, une m6me fosse 
 les recouvrit i cote de celle de Louis XVI.' — Lamartine, ' ffist. des 
 Girondins.' 
 
 Even, in that cruel time, sympathy was aroused by the 
 death of Mme Roland, on November 10, 1793. 
 
 ' Plusieurs charrettes pleines de victimes roulaient ce jour-lk leur 
 charge de condamnes i I'echafaud. On fit monter Mme Roland sur la 
 
454 PARIS 
 
 derniere, k cot^ d un vieillard infirme et faible, nomm^ Lamarche, 
 ancien directeur de le fabrication des assignats. Elle ^tait v^tue d'une 
 robe blanche, protestation d'innocence dont elle voulait frapper le 
 peuple. Ses beaux cheveux noirs tombaient en ondes jusqu'i ses genoux. 
 Elle se penchait quelquefois avec une tendresse filiale vers son com- 
 pagnon de supplice. Le vieillard pleurait. Elle lui parlait et I'en- 
 courageait k la fermet^. Elle essayait m^me d'egayer pour lui le 
 fun^bre trajet et parvint i lui faire sourire. 
 
 ' L'^chafaud se dressait i c6t6 de la statue colossale de la Libert^. 
 Arrivee la, Mme Roland descendit. Au moment ou I'executeur lui 
 prenait les bras pour la faire monter la premiire k la guillotine, elle eut 
 un de ces devouements qu'un coeur de femme peut seul contenir et 
 reveler dans une pareille heure. " Je vous demande une seule gr^ce, 
 et ce n'est pas pour moi," dit-elle en resistant un peu au bras du bour- 
 reau, " accordez-la-moi ! " Puis, se tournant vers le vieillard, " Montez 
 le premier," dit-elle a Lamarche, "mon sang r^pandu sous vos yeux 
 vous ferait sentir deux fois la mort ; il ne faut pas que vous ayez la 
 douleur de voir tomber ma t^te." Le bourreau y consentit, Apres 
 Texecution de Lamarche, qu'elle entendit sans p&lir, elle monta legere- 
 ment les degr^s de I'echafaud, et, s'inclinant <iu cot^ de la statue de la 
 Liberie comme pour la confesser encore en mourant par elle : " O 
 Liberte ! " s'ecria-t-elle, " O Liberie ! que de crimes on commet en ton 
 nom ! " Elle se livra i I'exdcuteur, et sa t6te roula dans le panier. ' — ■ 
 Lamartine^ ^Hist. des GirondinsJ' 
 
 May 9, 1794, saw the execution of "Madame Elisabeth. 
 
 'Madame Elisabeth se trouve assise sur la mSme charrette que 
 Mmes de S^nozan et de Crussol-d'Aroboise, et elle s'entretient avec 
 elles pendant le trajet de la Conciergerie k la place Louis XV. Aux 
 plaintes qui echappent k quelques-uns des condamnes, elle repond par 
 de touchantes exhortations. . . . On arrive a la place de la Revolution : 
 Madame descend la premiere. Le bourreau, comme pour I'aider, lui 
 tend la main. La princesse regarde de c6t^, et ne s'appuie pas sur 
 cette main qui s'offre k elle. Les victimes avaient trouve au pied de 
 I'echafaud une banquette sur laquelle on les fit asseoir. . . . Aucun ne 
 defaillit. Encourage par la presence et le regard de la soeur de Louis 
 XVI., chaque condamne s'est promis de se lever bravement i I'appel 
 de son nom, et d'acconiplir sa tS.che avec fermet^. Le premier nom 
 prononc^ par I'executeur est celui de Mme de Crussol. Mme de Crussol 
 se leve aussit6t, va s'incliner devant Madame Elisabeth, et temoignant 
 
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE 455 
 
 hauteraent le respect et I'amour que la princesse lui inspire, elle de- 
 mande la permission de Tenibrasser. " Bien vblontiers et de tout mon 
 coeur," lui dit Madame Elisabeth, avec cette expression d'affabilite qui 
 lui ^tait si naturelle ; et la royale victime avan9ant son visage, lui donne 
 le baiser d'adieu, de supplice et de gloire. Toutes les femmes lui 
 suivirent, et obtinrent le mfime temoignage d'affection. Les homnies 
 s'honor^rent aussi de leur respect pour Madame Elisabeth, en allant 
 chacun k son tour, courber devant elle la tete qui, une minute apres, 
 tombait sous le couperet de la guillotine. . . . Pendant tout le temps 
 que dura le sacrifice, la sainte femme qui semblait y pr^sider ne cessa 
 de dire le De profundis. Celle qui allait mourir priait pour les morts. 
 Elle ^tait reserviSe k p^rir la derniere. Quand la vingt-troisieme vint 
 s'incliner devant elle, elle lui dit : " Courage et foi dans la misericorde 
 de Dieu." Puis elle se leve elle-meme pour se tenir prete h. I'appel de 
 I'executeur. Elle monte d'un pas ferme les marches de I'^chafaud ; 
 et, regardant le ciel, elle se livre k I'ex&uteur. Son fichu tombant a 
 terre au moment ou on I'attache ^ la planche fatale, laisse aperjevoir une 
 m^daille d'argent. L'aide du bourreau se mettant en devoir de lui 
 enlever ce signe de piete, elle lui dit, " Au nom de votre mere, Mon- 
 sieur, couvrez-moi. " Ce fut le dernier mot de Madame Elisabeth.' — 
 A. M. de Beauchesne. 
 
 On July 28, 1794, Robespierre paid the penalty of his 
 crimes. 
 
 'Au lieu d'un tr&ne de dictateur, Robespierre est i demi-couch^ 
 sur une charretle qui porte ses complices Couthon et Henriot. C'est un 
 bruit, un tumulte autour de lui, qui n'est forme que de mille cris de joie 
 confus et de felicitations mutuelles. Sa t6te est enveloppee d'un linge 
 sale et sanglant ; on ne voit que demi son visage pale et feroce. Ses 
 compagnons mutiles, defigures, ressembloient moins 4 des criminels qu'k 
 des bStes feroces surprises dans un traquendrd, et dont on n'a pu se 
 saisir qu'en ecrasant une partie des membres. Un soleil brfilant n'em- 
 peche point les femmes d'exposer les lys et les roses de leurs joues 
 delicates a ses rayons ; elles veulent voir le bourreau de ses concitoyens. 
 Les cavaliers qui escortent la charrette brandissent leurs sabres, et le 
 montrent de la pointe nue. Le pontife-roi ne traine plus la Convention 
 a dix pas de distance de sa personne ; il ne semble conserver la vie que 
 pour attester la justice divine, et ses terribles vengeances sur les 
 hommes hypocrites et sanguinaires. 
 
 ' Arrive pr^s du lieu de supplice, devant la maison oil il logeoit, le 
 peuple fit arrSter ; et un groupe de femmes ex^cuta alors une danse aux 
 
456 ' PARIS 
 
 battemens de mains de la multitude. Une d'elles saisit ce moment 
 I'apostropher du geste et de la voix, en lui criant : " Ton supplice 
 m'enivre de joie, descends aux enfers avec les maledictions de toutes 
 les Spouses, de toutes les m^res de families." II resta muet. 
 
 ' Mont^ sur I'echafaud, le bourreau, comme anim6 de la haine pub- 
 lique, lui arracha brusquement I'appareil mis sur ses blessures ; iljeta 
 le cri d'un tigre ; la m^choire inferieure se ddtacha alors de la supe- 
 rieure, et laissant jaillir les flots de sang, fit de cette t^te humaine une 
 tSte monstrueuse, et la plus horrible que Ton puisse se peindre. Ses 
 deux compagnons, non moins hideux dans leuvs vStemens dechires et 
 saiiglantes, ^toient les acoKtes de ce grand criminel dont les souffrances 
 n'inspirerent J. personne la plus leg^re piti^. Bless^ k mort, la vindicte 
 publique appeloit encore pour lui un second tr^pas ; et Ton couroit en 
 foule pour ne pas perdre I'instant oil il en avoit precipit^ tant d'autres ; 
 on applaudit pendant plus de quinze minutes. 
 
 ' Vingt-deux t^tes tomberent avec la sienne. Le lendemain soix- 
 ante-dix membres de la commune allferent rejoindre le chef qu'ils 
 s'etoient donne ; c'^toient ceux-la meme qui ^toient venus dans nos 
 cachets, nous enlever nos alimens, et nous abreuver d'humiliations. 
 Le jour suivant, douze autres membres de la commune payferent de 
 leurs t^tes leur complicite avec le chef des conjures ; mais ces tetes 
 ignobles et vulgaires de plats, satellites n'avoient point de nom ; on ne 
 compte que celle de Robespierre.' — Mercier, ' Le nouveau Paris.' 
 
 The Obelisk of the Place de la Concorde, brought from 
 Luxor, and given to France by Mahomet- Ali, was erected 
 here under Louis Philippe, in 1836. It is covered with 
 hieroglyphics celebrating Rameses IL, or Sesostris, who 
 reigned in the fourteenth century before Christ. The history 
 of its transport from Egypt is represented upon the pedestal. 
 
 It was at the foot of this obelisk, on the spot where 
 Louis XVI. died, that I^ouis Philippe and Marie Ara^lie, 
 flying on foot by the gardens before the popular invasion of 
 the Tuileries, on February 24, 1848, waited in agony for 
 their carriages (which were being burnt at that moment by 
 the insurgents in the Place du Carrousel) and eventually 
 were rescued by a private brougham. 
 
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE 457 
 
 Eight allegorical statues typify the great cities of France 
 — Lyons, Marseilles, Bordeaux, Nantes, Lille, Strasbourg, 
 Rouen, and Brest. Since that city has ceased to be 
 French, the statue of Strasbourg (by Pradier) has always 
 been draped in mourning ! 
 
 At every hour of the day the Place de la Concorde is 
 beautiful and imposing. 
 
 ' II ^tait quatre heures, la belle journee s'achevait dans un poudroie- 
 nnent glorieux de soleil. A droite et a gauche, vers la Madeleine et 
 vers le Corps L^gislatif, des Hgnes dMdifices filaient au ras du del ; tandis 
 que le jardin des Tuileries ^tageait les cimes rondes de ses grands mar- 
 roniers. Et, entre les deux bordures vertes des contre-all^es, I'avenue 
 des Champs-Elysees montait tout Ik-haut, i perte de vue, terminfe par 
 la porte colossale de I'Arc de Triomphe, beante sur I'infini. Un double 
 courant de foule, un double fleuve y roulait, av6c les remous vivants des 
 attelages. Lesvagues fuyantes des voitures, que le reflet d'un panneau, 
 I'etincelle d'une vitre de lanterne semblaient blanchir d'une ecume. 
 En bas, la place, aux trottoirs immenses, aux chaussees larges comme 
 les lacs, s'emplissait de ce flot continuel, traversee en tons sens du 
 rayonnement des roues, peuplee de points noirs qui etaient des hommes; 
 et les deux fontaines ruisselaient, exhalaient nne fraicheur, dans cetle 
 vie ardente. ' — Zola, ' L' (Euvre. ' 
 
 Two groups of sculpture by Guillaume Coustou, known 
 as Les Chevaux de Marly, decorate the entrance to the 
 noble promenade originally called ' Le Grand Cours,' but 
 which has been known as Les Champs Elysees since the 
 time of Louis XV. It extends from the Place de la Con- 
 corde to the Arc de I'Etoile, and is the favourite afternoon 
 walk of the fashionable world of Paris, where the badaud, 
 or French cockney, is seen in perfection. 
 
 ' There is not one blade of grass in all these Elysian Fields, nothing 
 but hard clay, often covered with white dust. This gives the whole 
 scene the air of being a contrivance of man, in which Nature has either 
 not been invited to take any part, or has declined to do so. There are 
 
4s8 PARIS 
 
 merry-go-rounds, wooden horses, and other provision for children's 
 amusement among the trees ; and booths, and tables of cakes, and 
 candy women, and restaurants on the borders of the wood.' — Haw- 
 thorne, 'Note-Books.' 
 
 Behind the principal avenues are ranges of exhibition 
 booths, and cafds-concerts, which attract a humbler crowd. 
 Here idolising parents will stand for hours to watch their 
 petits bonshomm.es caracoUing on wooden horses, while 
 la bonne, in a snowy cap, holds the babies. Here the 
 sellers of soupirs and. gateaux de Nanterre drive a busy trade. 
 
 ' Paris est la seule ville du monde ou vous rencontriez des spectacles, 
 qui font de ses boulevards un drame continu jou^ par les Frangais, au 
 profit del'art.' — Balzac, ' Le Cousin Pons.' 
 
 ' Regardez ! tout vole, tout fuit, tout bourdonne. Ce sent les 
 leg^res caliches avec leurs quatre chevaux, crinieres au vent, narines 
 ouvertes, les caliches avec leurs femmes si fr81es et si parfum^es, si 
 roses et si blanches, qu'on dirait, tant elles passent vite, d'odorantes 
 corbeilles de fleurs. Ce sont les tilburys, avec leurs agents de change 
 juches sur de doubles coussins : tant ils aiment k tomber de haut, les 
 agents de change ! Ce sont les jumentsanglaises, les juments de France 
 et d' Arable, toutes fieres, toutes cabriolantes, toutes la t^te haute, une 
 rose k I'oreille, un fat sur le dos. C'est du briiit, c'est de la poussi^re ; 
 ce sont des piaffements et des rires, des admirations de femmes et 
 d'etourdis ; ce sont des regards d'amour jetes en passant, des plumes 
 qui s'envolent, des attelages qui se croisent, c'est de la coquetterie, c'est 
 de la rivalit^, c'est de I'or, c'est du soleil, c'est de tout. . . . De tout, 
 helas ! except^ du bonheur ! ' — AmSdle Gratiot. 
 
 ' Lavanite et la parcimonie, qui semblent devoir se livrer un^ternel 
 combat, sont, au contraire, dans I'existence d'une Parisienne, deux 
 forces equilibrees, soumises et marchant d'un pas fraternel vers le but 
 qui leur est assign^. . . . "II faut/(Z?-a?ifre,".dit I'une. . . . "A pen 
 defrais," ajoutel'autre. . . . Et il n'est point de concession que Ton ne 
 se fasse mutuellement pour obtenir ce resultat complexe.' — E. Raymond. 
 
 ' La promenade proprement dite des Champs-Elys^es s'arrete au 
 Rond-Point ; plus loin, ce n'est qu'une large avenue bordee des deux 
 c6tes de belles maisons d'un grand aspect et qui monte lentement par 
 une pente douce vers I'Arc de I'Etoile. Le matin, on ne voit personne 
 aux Champs Elysees, I'apres-midi, on y voit tout le monde ; mais il est 
 
LES CHAMPS ELYSEES 459 
 
 un jour parliculier ou cette grande avenue pr^sente un aspect qui a son 
 caractere et son originality. Cast le dimanche. 
 
 ' Ce jour-lk, k partir de deux heures, I'espace qui va des Chevaux 
 de Marly k I'Arc de Triomphe disparalt sous une masse mouvante de 
 voitmes de toutes sortes. Les caliches menses \ la Daumont y sont 
 melees aux fiacres. Les landaus aux panneaux armories s'y promenent 
 c6te-a-c6te avec des tapissi^res. Coupes et mylords, carrioles et 
 paniers, tous s'y rencontre. Et dans ce pele-raele de vehicules de toutes 
 tallies et de toutes formes, les omnibus, pareils i des vaisseaux de haut 
 bord, circulent lentement. ■ 
 
 ' Dans ce va-et-vient, dont le mouvement et la duree fatiguent le 
 regard, toutes les classes de la societe sont representees, le millionnaire 
 corame Pouvrier. L'homme qui a conquis son sang et sa fortune au 
 piix des plus laborieux efforts y coudoie I'hdritier d'un grand nom.' — 
 Amidee Achard. 
 
 Chateaubriand saw the royal captives of "Versailles 
 
 brought into Paris by the Champs Elys^es. 
 
 ' Le 5 octobre [1789] je courus aux Champs- Elysees ; d'abord parur- 
 ent les canons, sur lesquels des harpies, des larronneuses, des filles de 
 joie monttes a califourchon, tenaient les propos les plus obsc^nes et 
 faisaient les gestes les plus immondes. Puis, au milieu d'une horde de 
 tout age et de tout sexe, marchaient k pied les gardes du corps, ayant 
 chang^ de chapeaux, d'epees et de baudriers avec les gardes nationaux : 
 chacun de leurs chevaux portait deux ou trois poissardes, sales bac- 
 chantes ivres et d^braillees. Ensuite venait la deputation de I'Assemblee 
 nationale ; les voitures du roi suivaient ; elles roulaient dans I'obscurite 
 poudreuse d'une foret de piques et de baionnettes. Des chiffonniers en 
 lambeaux, des bouchers, tablier sanglant aux cuisses, couteaux a la 
 ceinture, manches de chemise retroussees, cheminaient aux portieres ; 
 d'autres egipans noirs etaient grimpes sur I'iinperiale ; d'autres acroches 
 aux marche-pied des laquais, au si^ge des cochers. On tirait des coups 
 de fusil et pistolet ; on criait : Void le boulanger, la boulanglre et le 
 petit mitron ! Pour oriflamme, devant le fils de saint Louis, les halle- 
 bardes suisses elevaient en I'air deux tetes de gardes du corps frisees et 
 poudrees par un perruquier de Sevres.' — ' Mimoires d^ Outre- Tombe.'' 
 
 On the left of the Champs Elysees is the Palais ^Industrie, 
 built (1852-55) for the Great Exhibition, and used since for 
 the annual Exhibitions of Painting and Sculpture, open 
 
46o PARIS 
 
 daily from 8 to 6, except on Mondays, when it opens at 12 
 (admission, 1 fr. ; free on Saturdays after 10, and Tuesdays 
 from 12 to 6). Beyond this, the Avenue Montaigne 
 branches off (left), containing the quaint Hdtel Fompeien, 
 built (i860) for Prince Napoleon. The Avenue d'Antin 
 leads to the river, where, at the angle of the Rue Bayard 
 and Cour de la Reine— nearly opposite the Pont des In- 
 valides — is the quaint Maison de Francois /, built by that 
 king (in 1523) at Moret, near the forest of Fontainebleau, for 
 his sister Marguerite, purchased by a private individual, 
 transported hither in 1827, and rebuilt, stone for stone. It 
 bears medallions of Louis XII., Antie de Bretagne, Frangois 
 II., Marguerite de Navarre, Henri II., Diane de Poitiers, 
 and Francois I. All the sculptures are attributed to Jean 
 Goujon. On the back of the house, which is a perfect 
 square, is inscribed — 
 
 ' Qui scit frenare Hnguam sensumque doraare, 
 Fortior est illo qui frangit viribus urbes ! ' 
 
 Voltaire, returning to Paris from Berlin, lived with the 
 Marquis de Villette, at the corner of the Rue de Beaune, and 
 died there. May 30, 1778. 
 
 From the Fond Foint, the Avenue Kleher leads to the 
 Place du Trocadero. George, King of Hanover, lived in the 
 corner-house of the Rue de Presbourg and Avenue Kleber, 
 and there he died, June 12, 1878. The Falaisdu Trocadero, ' 
 built in the Oriental style (in 1878), is of the same character 
 internally as the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. It contains 
 a Musee de Sculpture Comparee or des Movlages, and an 
 Ethnographical Museum. There are fine views from the 
 galleries and balconies. Zola describes a sunset as seen 
 from here. 
 
LE TROCADERO 461 
 
 ' Ce matin-Ik, Paris niettait une paresse souriante a s'^veiller. . Une 
 vapeur, qui suivait la vallte de la Seine, avail noy^ les deux rives. 
 C'etait une buee l^g^re, comme laiteuse, que le soleil peu i peu grandi 
 eclairait. On ne distinguait rien de la ville, sous cette mousselirie 
 flottante, couleur du temps. Dans les creux, le nuage epaissi se ron9ait 
 d'une teinte bleuitre, tandis que, sur de larges espaces, des transparences 
 se faisaient, d'une finesse extreme, poussiere doree ou I'on devinait 
 I'enfoncement des rues ; et, plus haut, des domes et des fleches dechi- 
 raient le brouillard, dressant leurs silhouettes grises, enveloppes encore 
 des lambeaux de la brume qu'ils trouaient. Par instants, des pans de 
 fumee jaune se d^tachaient avec le coup d'aile lourd d'un oiseau geant, 
 puis se fondaient dans I'air qui seroblait les boire. Et, au-dessus de 
 cette immensity, de cette nuee descendue et endormie sur Paris, un ciel 
 tr^s-pur, d'un bleu efiace, presque blanc, depjoyait sa voute profondc 
 Le soleil montait dans un poudroiement adouci de rayons. Une clarte 
 blonde, du blond vague de I'enfance, se brisait en pluie, emplissait 
 I'espace de son frisson ti^de. C'etait une fSte, une paix souveraine et 
 une gaiete tendre de I'infini, pendant que la ville, criblee de fleches 
 d'or, paresseuse et somnolente, ne se decidait point a se montrer sous 
 ses dentelles. . . . 
 
 'A I'horizon, sur le lac dormant, de longs frissons couraient. Puis, 
 le lac, tout d'un coup, parut crever ; des fentes se faisaient, et ily avait, 
 d'un bout a I'autre, un craquement qui annonfait le debacle. Le soleil, 
 plus haut, dans la gloire triomphante de ses rayons, attaquait victorieuse- 
 ment le brouillard. Peu-i-peu, le grand lac semblait se tarir, comme 
 si quelque d^versoir invisible efit vide la plaine. Les vapeurs, tout a 
 rheure si profondes, s'amincissaient, devenaient transparentes en prenant 
 les colorations vives de I'arc-en-ciel. Toute la rive gauche etait d'un 
 bleu tendre, lentement foncee, violatre au fond, du c6t^ du Jardin des 
 Plantes. Sur la rive droite, le quartier des Tuileries avait le rose pali. 
 d'une ^toffe couleur chair, tandis que, vers Montmartre, c'etait comme 
 une lueur de braise, du carmin fiambant dans de I'or ; puis, trfes-loin, 
 les faubourgs ouvriers s'assombrissaient d'un ton brique, de plus en 
 plus eteint et passant au gris bleuatre de I'ardtiise. On ne distinguait 
 point encore la ville tremblante et fuyante, comme un de ces fonds sous- 
 marins que I'oeil devine par les eaux claires, avec leurs forets terrifiantes 
 de grandes herbes, leurs grouillements pleins d'horreur, leurs monstres 
 entrevus. Cependant, les eaiix baissaient toujoiirs. Elles n'itaient 
 plus que de fines mousselines etalees ; et, une a une, les mousselines 
 s'en allaient, I'image de Paris s'accentuait et sOrtait du reve. . . . 
 
 ' Pas un souffle de vent n'avait passe, ce fut comme une evocation. 
 
462 PARIS 
 
 La derniere gaze se d^tacha, nionta, s'evanouit dans I'air. Et la ville 
 s'etendit sans une ombre, sous le soleil vainqueur.' — Unepage iT amour. 
 
 Not less vivid is the following description of a sunset. 
 
 ' Le soleil, s'abaissant vers les coteaux de Meudon, venait d'ecarter 
 les demiers images et de resplendir. Une gloire enflamma I'azur. Au 
 fond de I'horizon, I'ecroulement des roches crayeuses qui barraient les 
 lointains de Charenton et de ClioIsy-le-Rol, entassa des blocs de carmin 
 bordes de laque vive ; la flotille de petites nuees nageant lentement 
 dans le bleu, au-dessus de Paris, se couvrit de voiles de pourpre ; tandis 
 que le mince reseau, le filet de soie blanche tendu au-dessus de 
 Montmartre, parut tout d'un coup fait d'une gause d'or, dont les mailles 
 regulieres allaient prendre les etoiles i leur lever. Et, sous cette voflte 
 embrasee, la ville toute jaune, rayee de grandes ombres, s'etendait. 
 En bas, sur la vaste place, le long des avenues, les fiacres et les omnibus 
 se croisaient au milieu d'une poussiere orange, parmi la foule des 
 passants, dont le noir fourmillement blondissait et s'eclairait de gouttes 
 de lumi^re. Un seminaire, en rangs pressfe, qui suivait le quai de 
 Billy, mettait un queue de soutanes, couleur d'ocre,. dans la clart^ 
 diffuse. Puis, les voitures et les pietons se perdaient, on ne devinait 
 plus, tr^s-loin, sur quelque pont, qu'un file d'equipages dont les lanternes 
 ^tincelaient. A gauche, les hautes cheroinfcs de la Manutention, 
 droites et roses, ISchaient de gros tourbillons de fumee tendre, d'une 
 teinte delicate de chair ; tandis que de I'autre c6te de la riviere, les 
 beaux ormes du quai d'Orsay faisaient une masse sombre, troupe de 
 coups de soleil. La Seine, entre ses berges que les rayons obliques 
 enfilaient, roulait des flots dansants ah le bleu, le jaune et le vert, se 
 brisaient en un eparpillement bariole ; mais, en remontant le fleuve, ce 
 peinturlurage de mer, orientale prenait le ton d'or de plus en plus iblouis- 
 sant ; et Ton efit dit un lingot sorti a I'horizon de quelque creuset in- 
 visible, s'elargissant avec un remuement de couleurs vlves, i roesure 
 qu'il se refroidissait. Sur cette coulee eclatante, les ponts echelonn&, 
 amincissant leurs courbes legires, jettaient des barres grises, qui se 
 perdaient dans un entassement incendie de maisons, au sommet duquel 
 les deux tours de Notre-Dame rougeoyaient comme des torches. A 
 droite, k gauche, les monuments flarabaient. Les verrih"es du Palais 
 de I'Industrie, au milieu des futaies des Champs-Elys^es, ^talaient un 
 lit de tisons ardents ; plus loin, derriere la toiture ecrasee de la Made- 
 leine, la masse ^norme de I'Opera semblait un bloc de cuivre ; et les 
 autres edifices, les coupoles et les tours, la colonne Vendome, Saint 
 
PASsy 463 
 
 Vincent-de-Paul, la tour Saint-Jacques, plus pr^s les pavilions du 
 nouveau Louvre et des Tuileries, se couronnaient de flammes, dressant 
 k chaque carrefour des bftchers gigantesques. Le d6me des Invalides 
 dtait en feu, si itincelant qu'on pouvait craindre a chaque minute de la 
 voir s'effondrer, en couvrantle quartier des flamm^ches de sa charpente. 
 Au deli des tours inegales de Saint-Sulpice, le Pantheon se d^tachait 
 sur le ciel avec un ^clat sourd, pareil k un royal palais de I'incendie qui 
 se consumerait en braise. Alors, Paris entier, a mesure que le soleil 
 baissait, s'alluma aux b^chers des monuments. Des lueurs couiaient 
 sur les crates des toitures, pendant que, dans les valines, des fum&s 
 noires dormaient. Toutes les fayades tournees vers le Trocad&o 
 rougissaient, en jetant le petillement de leurs vitres, une pluie d'etin- 
 celles qui montaient de la ville, comme si quelque soufflet eflt sans cesse 
 activ^ cette forge colossale. Des gerbes toujours renaissantes s'echap- 
 paient des quartiers voisins, ou les rues se creusaient, sombres et cuites. 
 M8me, dans les lointains de la plaine, du fond d'une cendre rousse qui 
 ensevelissait les faubourgs detruits et encore chauds, luisaient des 
 fusees perdues, sorties de quelque foyer subitement ravive. Bientut ce 
 fut une fournaise. Paris brula. Le ciel s'^tait empourpre davantage, 
 les nuages saignaient au-dessus de I'immense cite rouge et or.' — Zo!a, 
 ' Une page if amour.' 
 
 In the Avenue du Trocad^ro (to the left) is the Musk 
 de Galliera, containing collections bequeathed to the town 
 by the Duchesse de Galliera. 
 
 The Avenue du Trocad^ro leads (west) to the suburb of 
 Passy, celebrated for its mineral waters in a garden entered 
 (No. 32) from the Quai de Passy. - This part of Paris is very 
 featureless and uninteresting, but the situation is a favourite 
 residence of French literati. Rossini died here (November 
 13, 1868) in a villa near the boulevard which bears his 
 name. Lamartine died (February 28, 1869) at No. 135 
 Avenue du Trocad^ro. Jules Janin lived at No. 5 Rue de 
 Pompe. Dr. Franklin inhabited the oM Hotel Valentinois, 
 Rue Raynouard. Lauzun and the Prmcesse de Lamballe 
 were amongst the owners of 17 Rue Berton. 
 
 Opposite the station of Passy is La Muette, though very 
 
464 PARIS 
 
 little remains of the famous cliateau, which was the scene of 
 many of the orgies of the Regency, and the residence of the 
 Duchesse de Berry, who took as her device ' Courte et bonne ' 
 and filled her life accordingly, till it came to an abrupt close 
 (17 19) when she was in her twenty-fourth year. 
 
 The chateau was rebuilt by Louis XV., and was his 
 favourite residence. It was frequently visited by Marie 
 Antoinette, being at that time a quiet country villa, 
 and it was the place to which the Court adjourned on the 
 death of Louis XV., and where Marie Antoinette held her 
 first receptions. Afterwards it was inhabited by Philippe 
 Egalit^, Due d'Orleans. 
 
 ' La faraille royale captive, au moment d'arriver a Paris, apres plus 
 de cinq heures d'une marche lugubre, y rencontra un dernier outrage. 
 Sur la terrasse du chateau de Passy, un homme fut aperfu qui se 
 cachait derri^re un groupe d'enfants, et cherchait a voir sans gtre vu ; 
 c'^tait d'Orleans. On avait amen^ ses fils qu'on avait placfe en pre- 
 miere ligne pour assister a la honte de la monarchie et au crime de leur 
 pere. L'aine de ses fils venait d'atteindre, ce jour-lameme, saseizi^rae 
 ann^e ; la joie etait empreinte sur son front. Sa sosur exprimait par 
 un rire convulsif, triste expression des traits de son pire, tout ce qu'elle 
 ressentait de bonheur au milieu de tant d'abaissement et de si augustes 
 infortunes.' '— i^ de Conny, 'Hist, de la rh). de France.' 
 
 ' Que vous dirai-je de cette majestueuse princesse et de ce bon roi, 
 qu'on am^ne k Paris, comme deux esclaves, au milieu de leurs assassins 
 et pr&edes pour trophee par les tetes sanglantes des deux defenseursde 
 la reine? Ces ingrats et perfides sujets, ces stupides citoyens, ces 
 femmes cannibales et ces monstres d^guis& ; ces cris de Tons les ivlques 
 a la lanlerne I au moment oil ce bon M. de la Fayette ram^ne le roi 
 dans sa capitale avec deux ^veques de son conseil dans sa voiture ; trois 
 coups de fusil, et je ne sais combien de coups de pique que j'ai vu tirer 
 et donner dans les carrosses de la reine. . . . Mais ce qui m'a le plus 
 revoltee, c'^tait I'horrible figure de ce d'Orl&ns, ivre de vengeance et 
 de joie hideuse, qui venait se montrer avec ses louveteaux sur la terrasse 
 du chateau de Passy, pour y voir d^filer cette cohue sanguinaire et 
 sacrilege.' — Souvenirs de la Marquise de Criqui. 
 
 ^ Louis Philippe and Madame Adelaide. 
 
AUTEUIL 46s 
 
 Beyond Passy is Auteuil, where a red-marble pyramid 
 near the church is the tomb of the high-minded Chancellor 
 d'Aguesseau, twice disgraced under the Regency for follow- 
 ing the course of honour — first,' in his opposition to the 
 disastrous influence of Law ; and secondly, for resisting the 
 measures of the vicious Dubois. With him rests his wife, 
 Anne Leftvre d'Ormesson, who died (1735) sixteen years 
 before him. It was of their marriage that Coulanges wrote 
 ' qu'on avait vu pour la premifere fois les Graces et la Vertu 
 s'allier ensemble.' 
 
 'Auteuil, lieu favori, lieu fait pour les poetes, 
 Que de rivaux de gloire unis sous tes berceaus.' 
 
 Chinier, ' Promenade_. ' 
 
 The district called the Point du Jour was so called, in 
 1748, because of that famous dawn of day (March 4) at 
 which it was discovered that the death of the Prince de 
 Dombes (son of the Due du Maine, and grandson of Louis 
 XIV.), previously supposed to have been caused by a carriage 
 accident, resulted from a duel with the Comte de Coigny. 
 
 On the left of the Champs Elys^es is the Chateau des 
 Flcurs (a place of public amusement), immediately opposite 
 which (April 28, 1855) the assassin Pianori fired at Napo- 
 leon III. as he was riding, and was seized while drawing a 
 second pistol from his pocket. The Emperor, without a 
 sign of fear or emotion, quietly rode on to overtake the 
 Empress, and assure her himself of his safety. It had been 
 near this that the people fired upon Louis Philippe in his 
 flight, and killed two horses of the escort. 
 
 The Champs Elysdes are closed by the huge Arc de 
 I'Etoile, one of the four triumphal arches which Napoleon I. 
 intended to erect in commemoration of his victories, and 
 
 H H 
 
466 PARIS 
 
 which he began from designs of Chalgrin, in 1806, though 
 the work was not completed till 1836, long after founder 
 and architect had passed away. It is the largest triumphal 
 arch in the world ; the arch itself being 90 feet high and 
 45 feet wide. The groups of sculpture which adorn it are 
 by Rude, Cortot, and Etex : that by Rude, of the Genius 
 of War summoning the nation to arms, is the best. There 
 is, however, nothing fine about the Arc de TEtoile except its 
 size. The arch itself is far too narrow for its height, and 
 the frippery ornament along the top of the structure destroys 
 all grandness of outline. The hugeness of the building is 
 in itself a disfigurement, and, like the giant statues in S. 
 Peter's at Rome, it puts all its surroundings out of proportion. 
 Perhaps more than any other monument in Paris, this 
 arch seems erected to show the instability of thrones and 
 the fleeting power of man ; yet Victor Hugo wrote of it — 
 
 ' Quand des toils, des clochers, des ruches tortueuses, 
 Des porches, des frontons, des domes pleins d'orgueil 
 Qui faisaient cette ville, aux voix tumultueuses, 
 Touffue, inextricable et fourmillante i I'oeil, 
 
 II ne restera plus dans I'immense campagne 
 Pour toute pyramide et pour tout Pantheon, 
 Que deux tours de granit, faites par Charlemagne 
 Et qu'un pilier d'airain fait par Napoleon, 
 
 Toi ! tu compl^teras le triangle sublime ! . . .' 
 
 (From the arch, the Avenue de Neuilly leads to the 
 
 village of that name. About i k., opposite the entrance to 
 
 the Bois de Boulogne called Port Maillot, is the Chapelk S. 
 
 Ferdinand (shown daily), enclosing the room in which 
 
 Ferdinand, Due d'Orldans, died from injuries received in 
 
 trying to jump from his carriage, at this spot, when its 
 
 horses were running away. ' The touching cenotaph of the 
 
 * The road was then called Chemin d^ la Revoke. 
 
CHAPELLE S. FERDINAND 467 
 
 duke (who is buried with his family at Dreux) is by 
 Trinqueti from designs of Ary Scheffer. The angel on the 
 right is one of the last works of the Princess Marie. The 
 prie-dieu in the chapel are all embroidered by different 
 members of the Orleans royal family. A Descent from 
 the Cross, by Trinqueti, from designs of Ary Scheffer, 
 occupies a niche behind the high-altar. A picture by 
 Jacquand represents the touching scene on this spot during 
 ' Les Derniers Moments du Due d'Oildans.' His august 
 mother, the Queen Marie Am^lie, has left an account of them. 
 
 ' Nous sommes entrfe dans I'auberge, oil nous avons trouve, dans 
 une petite chanibre, sur un matelas etendu par terre, Chartres qu'on 
 saignait en ce moment. . . . Je me suis allee un moment dans la 
 petite chambre a droite, oil je me suis jetee k genoux, et ai demand^ i 
 Dieu du fond de mon ame, s'il voulait une vlctime, de me prendre, et 
 de conserver notre si cher enfant. Peu apr^s, est arrive le docteur 
 Pasquier ; je lui ai dit : " Monsieur, vous etes un homme d'honneur, 
 si vous tfroyez le danger imminent, je vous prie de me le dire, pour que 
 mon enfant rejoive I'extreme onction." II a baisse la t6te et il m'adit; 
 " Madame, il en est temps." Le cure de Neuilly est entre, et lui a 
 administre le sacrement, pendant que nous etions i genoux, k I'entour 
 de ce grabat, pleurant et priant. J'ai detachd de mon cou une petite 
 croix, contenant une parcelle de la vraie croix, et je I'ai mise dans la 
 main de mon pauvre enfant, pour que ce Dieu sauveur ait pitie de lui 
 dans son passage pour I'^ternite. . . . M. Pasquier s'est leve et en est 
 alM parler i I'oreille du roi. Alors ce venerable et infortun^ p^re, le 
 visage inonde de larmes, s'est agenouill^ aupres de son alne, et I'em- 
 brassant tendrement s'est eerie : " Ah ! si c'^tait moi, au lieu de lui ! " 
 . . . Je me suis approchie aussi, et je I'ai embrassd trois fois, pour 
 moi, pour H^lene, pour ses enfants. J'ai mis sur sa bouche la petite 
 croix, signe de notre redemption, et je I'ai ensuite posee et laisSee sur 
 son coeur. Toute la famille I'a embrasse successivement, et chacun est 
 retourne \ sa place. Cependant la respiration est devenue inegale ; 
 elle a et^ interrompue deux fois et a repris; j'ai demand^ alors que le 
 prStre rentrit pour dire les priJres des agonisants. A peine s'etait-il 
 mis a genoux et avait fait la signe de la croix, que mon cher enfant a 
 fait une derniJre et profonde inspiration, et que son ame belle, bonne, 
 
 H H 2 
 
468 • PARIS 
 
 genireuse et noble a quitte son corps. . . . Le pr^tre, sur ma demande, 
 a dit un De frofundis ; le roi a voulu m'entrainer, mais je I'ai prie de 
 me permettre d'embrasser une derni^re fois ce fils cheri, objet de ma 
 plus vive lendresse. J'ai pris dans mes mains cette t^te si ch^re, j'ai 
 baisse ses levres toutes froides et decolorees, j'ai pose dessus la petite 
 croix, et je I'ai eroportee, en disant un dernier adieu i. celui que j'aimais 
 tant, que j'avais peut-etre trop aim^. Le roi m'a emmenee dans la 
 charobre voisine ; je me suisjetee a son ecu ; nous etions malheureux 
 ensemble ; notre irreparable perte nous etait commune, et je souffrais 
 autant pour lui que pour moi. II y avail foule dans cette petite 
 chambre ; je pleurals, je parlais, j'^tais hors de moi. 
 
 ' Au bout de quelques minutes, on a dit que tout etait pr^t. Le 
 corps avait 6t6 place sur un brancard couvert d'un drap blaac. II 
 ^tait port^ par quatre hommes de la maison, et soutenu par deux gen- 
 darmes. On est sorti par la porte-cochte de I'ecurie ; il y avait en 
 dehors une foule immense. Deux bataillons du 2" et du 17= leger, qui 
 nagu^re avaient passe avec lui les Fortes de fer et forc^ le col de Mou- 
 zaia, bordaient la haie, et ont continud avec iious. Nous avons tons 
 suivi i pied le corps inanime de ce fils bien-aime, qui peu d'heures 
 auparavant arrivait sur cette route, plein de sante, de force, de bonheur, 
 d'esperance, pour em'brasser ses parents, plong^s i pr&ent dans une 
 immense douleur.' 
 
 Victor Hugo narrates how — 
 
 ' Pour le due d'Orldans mourant, on jeta en Mte quelque matelas i 
 terre et on fit le chevet d'une vieille chaise-fauteuil de paille qu'on 
 renversa. 
 
 ' Un po&e delabre etait derri^re la tete du prince. Des casseroles 
 et des marmites et des poteries grossieres garnissaient quelque planches 
 le long du mur. De grandes cisailles, un fusil de chasse, quelques 
 images colori&s ^ deux sous, clouees i quatre clous, repr^sentaient 
 Mazagran, Le Juif Errant, et I'attentat de Fieschi. Un portrait de 
 Napoleon et un portrait du due d'Orl&ns (Louis-Philippe) en colonel- 
 gen&al de hussards, completaient la decoration de la muraille. Le 
 pav^ ^tait un carreau de briques rouges non peintes. Deux vieux bahuts- 
 armoires itayaient a gauche le lit de mort du prince.' — ' Chases -uues,' 
 
 The Bridge of Neuilly, twice rebuilt since, was originally 
 erected by Henri IV., who was nearly drowned in crossing 
 the ferry here with Marie de Medicis. Here also Pascal had 
 
NEUILLY 469 
 
 that narrow escape of being drowned by runaway horses, 
 which led to his renunciation of the world. 
 
 The Chateau de Neuilly, built by the Comte d'Argenson 
 in 1740, and afterwards inhabited by Talleyrand, Murat, 
 and Pauline Bonaparte, was given by Louis XVIII. to his 
 cousin the Due d'Orleans. Almost all the children of Louis 
 Philippe were born there, and there, in 1830, he accepted 
 the French crown. The chiteau was the scene of most of 
 the happy events of the family life of Louis Philippe, and 
 in its chapel the king and queen watched, from his death to 
 his funeral, beside the body of their beloved eldest son. 
 
 ' Louis-Philippe a ^te un roi trop p^re ; cette incubation d'une 
 famille qu'on veut faire &lore dynastie a peur de tout et n'entend pas 
 etre derangee ; de \b. des timiditfe excessives, importunes au peuple 
 qui a le 14 juillet dans sa tradition civile, et Austerlitz dans sa tradition 
 militaire. 
 
 ' Du reste, si I'on fait abstraction des devoirs publics, qui veulent 
 ^tre remplis les premiers, cette profonde tendresse de Louis- Philippe 
 pour sa famille, la famille la meritait. Ce groupe domestique etait 
 admirable. Les vertus y coudoyaient les talents. Una des filles de 
 Louis-Philippe, Marie d'Orl&ns, mettait le nom de sa race parmi les 
 artistes comme Charles d'Orleans I'avait mis parmi les poetes. Elle 
 avait fait de son ame un marbre qu'elle avait nomme Jeanne d'Arc. 
 Deux des fils de Louis-Philippe avaient arrach^ i Metternich cet ^loge 
 d^magogique : " Ce sont des jeunes gens comme on en voit gufere et 
 de princes comme on n'en voit pas." ' — Victor' Hugo, 'Les Misirahles.' 
 
 During the crisis of 1848, the French pillaged and 
 plundered the home of their king, and 600,000/. worth of 
 his private property was destroyed by the robbers of the 
 revolution, though the private charities of Louis Philippe 
 and Marie Amdlie during their seventeen years' reign had 
 amounted to 21,650,000 fr. or 800,000/., and those of the 
 Due and Duchesse d'Orldans to an annual sum of nearly 
 20,000/. . A cruel decree of Louis Napoleon compelled the 
 
470 PARIS 
 
 royal family to sell their estates in 1851. Since that tinie 
 the royal park of Neuilly has been cut up for avenues of 
 villas. Nothing remains of Villiers, the residence of the 
 last Duke of Orleans, except a pavilion on the Place de 
 Villiers-la-Garenne. The Palace of Madame Adelaide, 
 sister of Louis Philippe, was (in 1863) occupied by the 
 Conservatoire de Notre Dame des Arts, and is now a 
 school.) 
 
 From the Arc de I'Etoile several long and rather dreary 
 avenues lead to the Bois. That called Avenue du Bois de 
 Boulogne (formerly de ITmpdratrice) is the most animatedj 
 but the Avenue d'Eylau leads more directly to the gate of 
 the Bois called Porte de la Muette. The heights of Mont 
 Valdrien are always a fine feature, rising behind the woods. 
 At the corner of the Avenue Malakoff and that of the Bois 
 de Boulogne is the house of Dr. Evans, the American 
 dentist, where the Empress Eugdnie spent the first night 
 (September 4-5, 1870) after her flight from the Tuileries. 
 
 The Bois de Boulogne is part of the ancient forest of 
 Rouvray ' — of which Louis XI. made his barber, Olivier le 
 Daim, Grand-Forester (^ny,?^)— where Henri IL and Diane 
 de Poitiers loved to give hunting fetes, and where Louis XV. 
 held orgies in the Chateau de la Muette which Charles IX. 
 had built. The name was changed after pilgrims (in 1319) 
 had erected a church in honour of Notre Dame de Boulogne 
 in the neighbouring village of Menus-les-S. -Cloud, which 
 forthwith took the name of Boulogne. Ceded to the town 
 of Paris by Napoleon III., the Bois has ever since been the 
 favourite play -ground of the Parisians, and in this ' nature si 
 artistement mondaine ' ^ all that is possible of luxury of 
 
 * Roveritum, Rouvret, Rouvrai. ' Zola, La Cttr&e, • 
 
LE BOIS DE BOULOGNE 471 
 
 equipages and toilette may be seen, especially from 3 to 5 
 in winter, and 5 to 7 in summer. 
 
 ' Of course we drove in the Bois de Boulogne, that limitless park, 
 with its forests, its lakes, its cascades, and its broad avenues. There 
 were thousands upon thousands of vehicles abroad, and the scene was 
 full of life and gaiety. There were very common hacks, with father, 
 mother, and all the children in them ; conspicuous little open carriages 
 with celebrated ladies of doubtful reputation in them ; there were 
 dukes and duchesses abroad, with gorgeous footmen perched behind, 
 and equally gorgeous outriders perched on each of the six horses ; there 
 were blue and silver, and green and gold, and pink and black, and all 
 sorts and descriptions of startling liveries out. 
 
 ' I will not attempt to describe the Bois de Boulogne. I cannot do 
 it. It is simply a beautiful, cultivated, endless, wonderful wilderness. 
 It is an enchanting place. It is in Paris now, but a crumbling old 
 cross in one portion of it reminds one that it was not always so. The 
 cross marks the spot where a celebrated troubadour was waylaid and 
 murdered in the fourteenth century. It was in this park that the fellow 
 with the unpronounceable name made the attempt on the Russian Czar's 
 life with a pistol. The bullet struck a tree. Now in America that 
 interesting tree would be chopped down and forgotten within five years, 
 but it will be treasured here. The guides will point it out to visitors 
 for the next 800 years, and when it decays and falls down they will put 
 up another there and go on with the old story just the same.' — Mark 
 Twain, ' The In7iocents Abroad.' 
 
 ' Le Bois de Boulogne, c'est encore Paris. C'est le Paris des f^tes 
 et des promenades, le ^aris des arbres verts et des plaisirs champetres, 
 le Paris des duels et des amours. Le matin, on s'y bat et on y d^- 
 jeune ; a deux heures, on s'y promene et on s'y ennuie ; le soir, on y 
 dine et on y trompe quelqu'un. II y a des gens qui habitent Paris, 
 qui vivent dans Paris, qui ont leur domicile etpaient leurs contributions 
 a Paris, et dont I'existence entiere se passe au Bois de Boulogne. '■ — 
 Amidh Gratiot. 
 
 ' Vous qui avez vu le Bois de Boulogne dans ses jours de splendeur, 
 avec ses allies peupl^es de brillants cavaliers et de somptueux equipages 
 qui seniblent glisser sous des d6mes de verdure ; vous qui avez suivi ces 
 heros de la mode k la mise elegante sans etre recherchee, au maintien 
 noble, aisi, gracieux, retracez-nous avec de vives couleurs cette jeunesse 
 livree tout entiere au luxe et au plaisir, qui parait partout oil la vanite 
 pent etaler ses pompes, partout oil I'oisivet^ pent promener ses ennuis. 
 
472 PARIS 
 
 ' Des graces, de la folie, de I'esprit et des dettes, voilk done quel 
 est encore I'apanage des jeunes Fran9ais de nos jours ! Le xix' siecle 
 n'a point a rougir devant ses atn& ; c'est toujours cette aimable frivolite 
 de caractJ^re, cette facility des moeurs, cet amour de luxe et de parure 
 dont on accusait nos devanciers. Je reconnais les dignes fils de ces 
 hommes qui, selon le mot d'un grand roi, "portaient sur eux leurs 
 metairies et leurs bois de haute futaie." ' — Balzac, ' Esquisses par:- 
 siennes. ' 
 
 Entering the Bois by the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, 
 the Route de Suresnes soon leads us to the Lac Supirieur. 
 On the further side of the lake, between it and the Prd 
 Catelan, is the Pare aux Daims. Beyond the Lac Superieur 
 is the Butte Mortemart, a hillock whence there are views 
 towards the heights of Issy, Meudon, Bellevue, S, Cloud, ' 
 Suresnes, and Mdnt Valdrien. Between this and the Porte 
 d'Auteuil is the Champ de Courses for steeplechases. On 
 the further side of the Bois, reached most quickly by taking 
 the direct road from the Carrefour des Cascades between the 
 two lakes, is the plain of Longchamp, divided into a Hippo- 
 drome and Champ d'Entrainement, between which are to be 
 seen some small remains of the Abbaye de Longchamp, 
 founded (1256) by S. Isabelle of France, sister of S. Louis, 
 who passed the rest of her life and was buried (1269) within 
 its walls. The sanctity acquired by the abbey from the 
 miracles wrought at her tomb called many princesses to 
 take the veil there, and Phihppe le Long died (in 1321) 
 whilst he was the guest of the convent, of which his daughter, 
 Blanche de France, was the abbess. In the XVI. c, how-' 
 ever, Longchamp began to lose its saintly reputation. 
 Henri IV. made love to one of its nuns, Catherine de 
 Verdun, and in 1652 S. Vincent de Paul complained bitterly, 
 to Cardinal Mazarin of the irregularities of the convent and 
 the luxury of its sisters, ill befitting those who bore the 
 
LE BO IS DE BOULOGNE 473 
 
 name of ' Sceurs mineures encloses de I'Humilit^ Notre 
 Dame.' After this, Longchamp fell into disrepute, and the 
 tomb of Isabelle was deserted, till the nuns reconquered 
 their popularity by the splendour of their musical services, 
 in which they were greatly aided by the famous opera- 
 singer Mile Le Maura, who took the veil in the convent 
 in 1727. From that time till the Revolution all the most 
 distinguished persons in Paris frequented the church, and 
 the ' promenade de Longchamp ' became an established 
 fashion. 
 
 The Hippodrome of Longchamp is the principal race- 
 course in the neighbourhood of Paris. The Grand Prix of 
 100,000 fr. is contended for in the beginning of June, and 
 answers to the English 'Derby.' 
 
 Near the Carrefour de Longchamp are the Grande 
 
 Cascade and the Mare de Longchamp, fed by a stream from 
 
 the Mare aux Biches. From the Carrefour, the Route de la 
 
 Longue Queue leads to the Porte de Madrid by the Ch&teau 
 
 de Bagatelle, occupying the site of a villa of Mile de 
 
 Charolais (daughter of Louis, Prince de Cond6), whose 
 
 fancy for being painted as a monk drew forth the lines of 
 
 Voltaire — 
 
 ' Fr^re Ange de Charolais, 
 Dis-nous par quel aventure 
 Le cordon de Saint Franyois 
 Sert k V^nus de ceinture.' 
 
 Bagatelle afterwards became the property of the Comte 
 d'Artois, brother of Louis XVI., who laid a wager with 
 Marie Antoinette that he would build a chateau there in the 
 space of a month, and won it, inscribing ' Parva sed apta ' 
 over the entrance. Sold at the Revolution, Bagatelle was . 
 afterwards restored to the Due d'Artois, who gave it to the 
 
474 • PARIS 
 
 Due de Berry, who often resided there. ■ It now belongs to 
 Sir Richard Wallace. 
 
 Crossing the AU^e de Longchamp, by the caf^-restaurant 
 called Prd Catelan, we may reach the Croix Catelan—z. 
 stone pyramid replacing a cross raised by Philippe le Bel to 
 Arnauld de Catelan, a troubadour from Provence, murdered, 
 with his servant, by the military escort which the king had 
 given him, because they fancied that the chest of liqueurs 
 which he was taking to the king was full of jewels : the 
 murderers were burnt alive. 
 
 Towards the north end of the Bois is the restaurant of 
 Madrid, occupying the site of the villa which Frangois I. built 
 on the model of that in which he lived as the captive of 
 Charles V. Its rich decorations of plaques of Palissy-ware, 
 gave it the name of Chateau de Faience. 
 
 ' Madrid was built by Francis I, and called by that name to absolve 
 him of his oath that he would not go from Madrid, in which he was 
 prisoner in Spayne, but from whence he made his escape.'— _/«/4« 
 Evelyn, 1644. 
 
 Here Frangois I. was greatly tempted to retaliate for his 
 own captivity by imprisoning Charles V. during his visit to 
 France in 1539. 
 
 ' Triboulet, le bouifon de Fran9ois I', avail inscrit le nom de 
 Charles V. %ui %<xv Journal des fous, ou il se plaisait i inscrire toutes les 
 personnes qui commettaient quelque action imprudente, irreflechie ou 
 dangereuse. Un jour que ce jovial personnage, dans le langage 
 approprie a sa profession, parlait ^ son maitre de I'empereur, " Sire," 
 disait-il, " votre majeste a fait bitir le chateau de Madrid pres du 
 village de Boulogne ; pourquoi ne prierait-elle pas.roessire Charles d'y 
 prendre un logement? . . . Madrid pour Madrid, la difference ne 
 serait que dans le foss^ qui entoure le chSteau." " Et si je laisse passer 
 I'empereur," repondit le roi, en riant, "que feras-tu?" " Ce que je 
 ferai, sire ? Tenez, voila le nom de Charles-quint sur mon journal 
 des fous : eh bien, je I'effacerai, et mettrai le vdtre 4 sa place."' — 
 Touchard-Lafosse, 'Hist, de Paris.' 
 
JARDJN D'ACCLIMATATION 475 
 
 It was at Madrid that Frangois I. first caused ladies to 
 become a necessary part of his Court, because ' une cour sans 
 femmes est une annde sans printemps, et un printemps sans 
 roses.' Henri II. and Diane de Poitiers frequently resided 
 at Madrid. Charles IX. was here with Mile de Rouet, 
 daughter of Louis de la Baraudifere, and Henri III. collected 
 a menagerie here, and settled the chateau Madrid upon his 
 sister Marguerite, first wife of Henri I¥., who spent much 
 of her last years there, after her divorce. Louis XVI. 
 ordered the demolition of the chateau. Its loss is more to 
 be regretted than that of any building of its period, for it 
 was as elegant as it was palatial. 
 
 To the left lies the Jardin (T Acdimatation (with entrances 
 near the Porte de Sablons and Porte de Neuilly : admission, 
 weekdays i fr., Sundays 50 c), pleasant zoological gardens, 
 crowded on fine Sundays, when elephants and camels laden 
 with people stalk about the drives, and children are driven 
 in llama and even in ostrich carts. The collection of dogs 
 is a remarkable one. 
 
 Re-entering Paris by the Arc de Triomphe, the Rue de 
 I'Oratoire (on the left in descending the Champs Elysdes) 
 leads to the Pare Monceaux, a pretty public garden, originally 
 planted from plans of Carmontel for Philippe d'Orldans 
 (father of Louis Philippe) on a site once occupied by the 
 village of Monceaux. The enormous sums which the duke 
 spent here gave the place the name of ' folies de Chartres.' 
 
 ' J'en atteste, O Monceaux, tes jardins toujours verts ; 
 Li, des arbres absents les tiges imitees, 
 Les magiques berceaux, les grottes enchantees, 
 Tout vous charme a la fois. '■ — Delilk. 
 
 Confiscated at the Revolution, Monceaux was given 
 
 back to the Orleans family by Louis XVIII., and was in 
 
476 PARIS 
 
 their possession till the decrees of 1852. It is now one of 
 the prettiest gardens in Paris, and is surrounded by hand■^ 
 some houses. The artificial pool called La Naumachie is 
 backed by a colonnade said to be part of that erected by 
 Catherine de Medicis on the north of the church of S. Denis, 
 to receive her own tomb and that of Henri II. 
 
 The Boulevard de Monceaux passes over the site of the 
 cemetery where the saintly Madame Elisabeth was buried 
 in an unmarked grave, with all the aristocratic victims of 
 the Revolution who perished with her. 
 
 All the streets in this district are featureless and ugly. 
 In the Boulevard Maksherbes (a little south) is the great 
 Church of S. Augustin, built 1860-68 — a climax of vulgarity 
 and bad taste, in which the use of cast iron has its horrible 
 apotheosis. 
 
 Almost all the houses in this, as indeed in most parts of 
 Paris, are let in apartments, all depending upon the same 
 all-important individual, the concierge, or porter at the 
 entrance, upon whose character much of the comfort of the 
 inmates depends ; he may be eithei: a self-important and 
 arrogant tyrant, or a long-suffering friend — the civilest 
 person in the world, who will say, 'Je serai toujours aux 
 ordres de monsieur, k minuit, comma \ midi.' 
 
 ' A Paris, chaque maison est une petite v.ille ; chaque etage, un 
 quartier. Toutes les classes de la soci^te s'y resumeiit k la fois. 
 
 ' Le portier de Paris est I'etre important d'une maison. C'est le 
 ministre du proprietaire ; I'intermWiare entre ceux qui paient et celui 
 qui rejoit. II ^coute les plaintes, et les transmet. II est charge aussi 
 quelquefois, et par circonstances extraordinaires, d'etre le juge de paix 
 de la maisaa.' —Jacques Raphael. 
 
 Returning to the Hue du Faubourg S. Honore, and turn- 
 ing eastwards, we pass, on the left, the doric Church of S. 
 
ni.L YSEE 6,-j-j 
 
 Philippe du Rouk, erected (1769-84) from plans of Chalgrin. 
 At the corner of the Place Beauveau (right) is the Palais de 
 r Ely see Napolhn, built (17 18) by Molet for the Comte 
 d'Evreux. It was inhabited by Mme de Pompadour till her 
 death, and afterwards by her brother the Marquis de Marigny, 
 from whom Louis XV. bought it as a residence for Ambas- 
 sadors Extraordinary. After this it was the residence of the 
 Duchesse de Bourbon-Condd, till her emigration in 1790. 
 Confiscated in the Revolution, it was sold in 1803 to Murat, 
 who lived in it (as governor of Paris in the beginning of the 
 Empire) till he left France for Naples in 1808. The 
 Elys^e was a favourite residence with Napoleon I., who 
 slept there during his last stay in Paris after the battle of 
 Waterloo, and signed his abdication there. In 1814-1815 
 it was inhabited by the Duke of Wellington and the Emperor 
 of Russia. Then, at the Restoration, this palace, of many 
 changes, passed into the hands of the Due de Berry, who 
 inhabited it, under the name of Palais Elys^e Bourbon, till 
 his murder (February 13, 1820). For a short time the resi- 
 dence of the Due de Bordeaux, it was again confiscated, and 
 was chosen as a residence by Prince Louis Napoleon from 
 the time of his proclamation as President of the Republic 
 (December 20, 1849), continuing to be his dweUing till he 
 moved to the Tuileries, after the proclamation of the second 
 Empire. In the Salle du Conseil of the Elys^e he prepared 
 the Coup d'Etat of December 2, 1851. 
 
 Behind the palace is the garden where Napoleon I. was 
 walking with his brother Lucien after . his return from 
 Waterloo, when — 
 
 ' L'avenue de Marigny etait remplie d'une foule nombreuse, attiree 
 -^ar la fatale nouvelle du desastre de Waterloo, Le inur qui s^parait 
 
478 PARIS 
 
 le jardin de I'Elysee de I'avenue 6tait beaucoup plus bas qu'aujourd'hui, 
 et la foule n'etait separee de Napoleon que par un obstacle presque nul. 
 En I'apercevant, elle poussa des oris fr^n^tiques de Vive P Emfereur I 
 Beaucoup d'individus en s'approchant du mur du jardin, lui tendaient 
 la main, en lui demandant de les conduire k I'ennemi. Napoleon les 
 salua du geste, leur donnant un regard affectueux et triste, puis leur fit 
 signe de se calmer, et continua sa promenade avec Lucien.' — Thiers, 
 ' V Empire. ' 
 
 To the east of the Elysde stood the (now destroyed) 
 Hotel Sebastiani, which, in 1847, was the scene of the 
 terrific murder of the Duchesse de Praslin by her husband. 
 
 The Hote/ Fould is built in brick and stone, in the style 
 of Louis XIII. The neighbouring Hotel Furtado is hand- 
 some. The Hotel de Marboiuf'\% XVIII. c. No. 39 Rue 
 du Faubourg S. Honor^ is the Hotel Charost, now the 
 British Embassy. It was formerly the residence of Pauline 
 Bonaparte, Princess Borghese, who here gave herself those 
 airs of self-assertion which caused her brother the emperor 
 to say, ' Ces coquines-lk croient que je les ai priv^ du bien 
 du feu roi notre pfere.' Much furniture still remains of her 
 time, and the bed which once belonged to the prettiest 
 woman of France is now occupied by the British ambas- 
 sador. The garden of this and other stately mansions 
 which line the Champs Elys^es embalm the air in spring 
 with the scent of their lilacs. 
 
 ' Ces premiers pousses de lilas, f8te printaniire qui n'est savouree 
 dans toute son ^tendue qu'i Paris, oil, durant six mois, les Parisiens 
 ont vecu dans I'oubli de la vegetation, entre les falaises de pierre oil 
 s'agite leur oc&n humain.' — Balzac, ' La Cousine Bette, 
 
 On the left the Rue d'Anjou S. Honors turns north, 
 containing (right) the Chapelk Expiatoire erected on the 
 site of the cemetery (belonging to the Madeleine) where 
 Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were buried in 1793. 
 
LA CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE 479 
 
 ' Le 20 Janvier, 1793, le pouvoir ex^cutif aianda M. Pecavez, curf 
 de la paroisse de la Madeleine, pour le charger de I'ex^cution de ses 
 ordres relativement aux obsiques de S. M. Louis XVI. M. Pecavez, 
 ne se sentant pas le courage necessaire pour remplir une fonction aussi 
 p^nible at aussi douloureuse, pretexta une inaladie, et m'engagea, 
 comme son premier vicaire, a le remplacer et a veiller, sous ma respons- 
 abilit^, a la stride execution des ordres intim& par le pouvoir ex^cutif. 
 . . . Arriv& au cimetiere, je fis faire le plus grand silence. L'on 
 nous presenta le corps de sa Majeste. II etait vetn d'un gilet de piqu^ 
 blanc, d'uue culotte de soie grise, et des bas pareils. Nous psalmodi^mes 
 les vepres, et recitames toutes les prieres usitees pour le service des 
 morts, et, je dois dire la v&ite, toute cette meme populace, qui naguere 
 faisait retentir I'air de ses vociferations, entendit les prieres faites pour 
 le repos de Fame de sa Majesty, avec le silence le plus religieux. ' — 
 Deposition de M. Renard, le 20 Janvier, 181 5, devant le chevalier 
 d'Ambray, chancelier de France. 
 
 ' Le soir du 16 octobre, un homme, son ouvrage du jour fini, 
 ecrivait ce compte, que les mains de Fllistoire ne touchent qu'en 
 frissonnant ; 
 
 ' ' ' M^raoire des frais et inhumations fais par Joly, fossoyeur de la 
 Madeleine de la Ville-l'Evgque, pour les personnes mis a mort par 
 jugement dudit tribunal : 
 
 ' ' ' Scavoir 
 
 Du I*' mois . . . 
 Le 25 idem. 
 
 La V* Capet. Pour la bierre 6 livres. 
 Pour la fosse et les fossoyeurs, 25." ' 
 
 Goncourt, ' Hist, de Marie Antoinette.' 
 
 The ground was afterwards bought by a M.. Descloseaux, 
 who planted it as an orchard, to preserve the royal graves 
 from insult during the Revolution. At the Restoration, 
 the orchard was purchased by the royal family, and the 
 royal remains transported with great pomp to S. Denis. 
 The remains of the other victims of the Revolution, includ- 
 ing the Swiss guard, buried here, were collected into two large 
 graves, and, at the instigation of Chateaubriand, the Chapelle 
 Expiatoire was built by Louis XVIII. It contains statues of 
 
48o PARIS 
 
 the king and queen, his will being inscribed on the pedestal 
 of that of Louis, and portions of her last touching letter to 
 Madame Elisabeth on that of Marie Antoinette. A group 
 by Fran9ois Joseph Bosio (i 769-1845), one of the best of 
 the modern classic French sculptors, represents Louis XVI. 
 sustained by an angel ; and a group by Jean Pierre 
 Cortot (i 787-1843) represents Marie Antoinette supported 
 by Religion. Though well-conceived, neither is suc- 
 cessful. 
 
 The Rue de la Madeleine will now lead us to the great 
 Church of the Madeleine — resembling a magnificent pagan 
 temple — which has frequently changed its destination. It 
 was begun (1764) under Louis XV. as a church, from designs 
 of Constant d'lvry, whose plans were thrown aside by his 
 successor Couture (1777). The work was stopped by the 
 Revolution, and taken up again in consequence of a decree 
 issued from Posen in 1806 by Napoleon I., who ordered 
 Pierre Vignon to finish the building as a Greek Temple of 
 Victory — ' le temple de la Gloire,' in honour of the soldiers 
 of the Grand Army. But the Restoration changed every- 
 thing, and the building was given back to its first destina- 
 tion, though the plan was unaltered, and the church was 
 finished under Louis Philippe in 1832. 
 
 ' Imitation du Parthenon, grande et belle chose, quoiqu'on dise, 
 mais gat^e par les infimes sculptures de cafe qui d^shonprent les frises 
 lat^rales. ' — Bahac. 
 
 ' That noble type is realised again 
 In perfect forms and dedicate^ — to whom ? 
 To a poor Syrian girl of lowest name — 
 A hapless creature, pitiful and frail 
 As ever wore her life in sin and shame ! ' 
 
 R. M. Milnes. 
 
LA MADELEINE 481 
 
 'Glorious and gorgeous is the Madeleine. The entrance to the 
 nave is beneath a most stately arch ; and three arches of equal height 
 open from the nave to the side aisles ; and at the end of the nave is 
 another great arch, rising, with a vaulted half-dome, over the high- 
 altar. The pillars supporting these arches are Corinthian, with ric?Jy 
 sculptured capitals : and wherever gilding might adorn the church, it 
 is lavished like sunshine ; and within the sweeps of the arches there 
 are fresco paintings of sacred subjects, and a beautiful picture covers 
 the hollow of the vault over the altar : all this, besides much sculpture, 
 and especially a group above and around the high-altar, representing 
 the Magdalen, smiling down upon angels and archangels, some of 
 whom are kneeling, and shadowing themselves with their heavy marble 
 wings.' — Hawthorne, ' Note-Books.' 
 
 The interior (only open to visitors after i, when the 
 morning services are over) contains, under the first pillar — 
 
 R. Monument to the Cur6 Deguerry, murdered at La Roquette by 
 the Communists, May 24, 1871 — ' mort pour la foi et la justice.' He 
 is buried in the crypt. 
 
 High-altar. Marocketii : Assumption of the Magdalen. 
 
 Behind the Madeleine, a very pretty and popular _;fi7r£/«r- 
 market is held on Tuesdays and Fridays. 
 
 It was in the Rue Royale, which leads from the Made- 
 leine to the Place de la Concorde, that 132 lives were lost 
 in the terrible accident which took place during the festivi- 
 ties upon the marriage of the Dauphin and Marie Antoinette, 
 May 30, 1774. 
 
 Here the barricade erected by the Communists in May 
 187 1 offered a serious obstacle to the troops which entered 
 Paris from Versailles on the 21st) and was only taken after 
 great slaughter. 
 
 Behind the Madeleine, in the Rue Tronchet, is the 
 magnificent modern Hotel Pouriales, by Duban. 
 
 I I 
 
PARIS 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 INDUSTRIOUS MODERN PARIS. 
 
 The Boulevards. The quarters of Montmarire, La Villette, and Belle- 
 ville. The Bourse. The Biblioihcque Nationale. The Place des 
 Victoires, Bank, and Palais Royal. 
 
 WE now enter the Boulevards, which have only 
 really existed since the Revolution. Paris now 
 possesses an endless number of Boulevards, but when the 
 Boulevard is spoken of, it means the Boulevard from the 
 Madeleine to the site of the Bastille, in its different and 
 varied divisions. 
 
 ' Oxford Street gives one aspect of London, Regent Street another, 
 the Strand another ; but the Boulevards, running directly through 
 Paris, display the character of the town in all its districts, and the 
 character of its inhabitants in all their classes.' — Henry Lytton Bulwer. 
 
 The paved walks at the sides of the Boulevard are lined 
 with trees, between which, at intervals, are Mosques. 
 
 Following the Boulevard de la Madeleine and the Bou- 
 levard des Capucines we reach, facing the entrance to the 
 Rue de la Paix, the magnificent Opera, built from designs of 
 Charles Garnier (1861-1875), and adorned with busts of great 
 composers and musicians. The marble staircase is magni- 
 ficent. (It can be visited on Sundays from 12 to 2.) Four 
 
PA VILLON D'HANOVRE 483 
 
 great balls are given at the Opera House during the Car- 
 nival. (Entrance : gentlemen, 20 frs., ladies, 10 frs.) The 
 first opera house in Paris was opened in 167 1 ; but the 
 first opera was the tragedy of Orphk, by Jodelle, acted 
 with dancing and singing on the marriage of Frangois II. 
 and Mary Stuart.' The next opera we hear of is Le Ballet 
 comique de la Royne, given on the occasion of the mar- 
 riage of the Due de Joyeuse, favourite of Henri III. The 
 establishment of the opera in France was due, strangely 
 enough, to the persistent efforts of a cardinal — Mazarin. 
 
 ' C'est k deux cardinaux (Richelieu et Mazarin) que la tragedie et 
 I'opdra doivent leur ^tablissement en France. ' — Voltaire. 
 
 Women first appeared as dancers in a ballet in 1681. 
 
 Before that time their places were filled by men disguised, 
 
 ' II faut se rendre i ce palais magique, 
 Ou les beaux vers, la danse, la musique, 
 L'art de charmer les yeux^par les couleurs, 
 L'art plus heureux de seduire les coeurs, 
 De cent plaisirs font un plaisir unique.' — Voltaire. 
 
 On the east of the Op^ra, the Rve Chaussee d'Antin 
 (formerly Chemin de I'Hotel Dieu, because it was on land 
 belonging to the hospital) leads to the large mongrel Church 
 of La Trinite, whence the steep Rue de Clichy ascends to 
 the suburb of Batignolles. All this part of Paris is inde- 
 scribably ugly and featureless. 
 
 On the right, at the entrance of Rue Louis le Grand 
 (No. 30), on the south of the boulevard, is the quaint and 
 picturesque Pavilion d'Hanovre, built by Chevotet for the 
 marshal-duke, with money accumulated in the Hanoverian 
 war, and long regarded and looked upon as a model of such 
 small houses in the XVIII. c. 
 
 See BrantSme and Les Chronigttes de rop4ra. 
 
 I I 2 
 
484 
 
 PARIS 
 
 'La r&ction de 1795 plaja au pavilion d'Hanovre le Bal des 
 Victimes. C'itaient des fetes auxquelles on nVtait admis qu'en prou- 
 vant qu'on appartenait i une des innombrables families deciniees par la 
 terreur, et, chose difficile k croire si on ne I'avait pas vue, la toilette 
 deg, femmes y rappelait quelque chose du sanglant appareil de I'^chafaud. ' 
 Nodier, Regnier, and Champin, ' Paris kistorique. ' 
 
 FONTAINE GAILLON. 
 
 No. 33 Rue Louis le Grand was built by the Mardchal 
 de Richelieu in 1760. No. 9 has two fountains, brought 
 from the house of M. d'Etoiles in the Rue du Sentier, 
 and an admirable balustrade from the Hotel de Boulain- 
 villiers, in the Rue Notre Dame des Victoires. The painter 
 
BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS 485 
 
 Rigaud lived and worked at the corner of the Rue Louis le 
 Grand and the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs. 
 
 The Rue de la Michodilre (called after a Prdvot des 
 Marchands in 1777) leads to the Carrefour Gaillon, with an 
 admirable fountain erected (1828) from designs of Visconti. 
 The Rue des Moulins, which opens just beyond on the left, 
 contains the house (No. 14) of the well-known Abbd de 
 I'Ep^e (Charles Michel de I'Epde, 171 2-89), the friend of 
 the deaf and-dumb. The poet Piron lived and died in this 
 street. 
 
 The Boulevard des Ifaliens, the gayest street in modern 
 Paris, leads eastwards. 
 
 ' Sur le boulevard passant des Anglaises longues at angulausas, des 
 Havanas jaunes, des Espagnols basanes, des Italiennes au teint mat, 
 des Valaques rose-th^, des Allemandes sentimentales mais dodues, des 
 Russes elegantes mais d^hanchees. Le marchant de puros de la Vuelta 
 de Abayo, aux bijoux massifs et au chapeau a large bord, coudoie le 
 Hongrois en bottes k la Souvarow, et Fingenieur de New-York, i la 
 longue barbiche, passe-affaire, cachant sous son v^tement un revolver 
 et un projet de canon monstre.' — C. Yriarte. 
 
 This Boulevard is almost exclusivelyiined by hotels and 
 cafds, the most celebrated being (left),: No. 16, Caf^ Riche, 
 and No. 20, Maison Dorde. Lines of men are always 
 seated in front of them in fine weather. 
 
 ' Les personnas qui sont la tous les jours assises sur des chaises, 
 livr^es au plaisir d'analyser les passants, avec ce sourire particulier aux 
 gens de Paris, et qui dit tant de choses ironiques, moqueuses ou com- 
 patissantes. ' — Bahac, ' Le Cousin Pons' 
 
 ' A sept heures du matin, pas un pied n'yfait retentir la dalle, pas 
 un roulis de voiture n'y agaca la pav^. Le boulevard s'evailla tout au 
 plus k huit heures au bruit de quelques cabriolets, sous la pesante 
 demarche de rares porteurs charges, aux cris de quelques ouvriers en 
 blouse allant k leurs chantiers. Pas una persienne ne bouge, les bouti- 
 ques sont fermees comme des hultres. C'est un spectacle inconnu de 
 bien des Parisiens, qui croient le boulevard toujours pare, de meme 
 
486 PARIS 
 
 qu'ils croient, ainsi que le croit leur critique favori, les homards nes 
 rouges. A neuf heures, le boulevard se lave les pieds sur toute la 
 ligne, ses boutiques ouvrent les yeux en montrant un affreux desordre 
 int^rieur. Quelques moments apres, il est affaire comme une grisette, 
 quelques paletots intriguants sillonnent ses trottoirs. Vers onze heures, 
 les cabriolets courent aux proces, aux payements, aux avouds, aux 
 notaires, voiturant des faillites en bourgeon, des quarts d'agent de 
 change, des transactions, des intrigues k figures pensives, des bonheurs 
 endormis k redingotes boutonn&s, des tailleurs, des chemisiers, enfin 
 le monde matinal et affaire de Paris. Le boulevard a faim vers midi, 
 on y d^jeune, les boursiers arrivent. Enfin, de deux heures a cinq 
 heures, sa vie atteint a I'apogee, il donne sa grande representation gratis. 
 Ses trois mille boutiques scintillent, et le grand po^me de I'etalage 
 chante ses strophes de couleurs depuis la Madeleine jusqu'a la Porte 
 Saint-Denis.' Artistes sans le savoir, les passants vous jouent le choeur 
 de la trag^die antique : ils rient, ils aiment, ils pleurent, ils sourient, 
 ils songent creux ! lis vont comme des ombres ou comme des feux 
 follets ! . . . On ne fait pas deux boulevards sans rencontrer un ami 
 ou un ennemi, un original qui prete i rire ou a penser, un pauvre qui 
 cherche un sou, un vaudevilliste qui cherche un sujet, aussi indigents 
 mais plus riches I'un que I'autre. C'est Ik qu'on observe la comedie de 
 I'habit. Autant d'hommes, autant d'habits diff^rents : et autant 
 d'habits, autant de caracteres ! Par les belles journees, les femmes se 
 montrent, mais sans toilette. . Les toilettes, aujourd'hui, vont dans 
 I'avenue des Champs-Elysees ou au Bois. Les femmes comme il faut 
 qui se prominent sur les boulevards n'ont que des fantaisies k contenter, 
 s'amusent k marchander ; elles passent vite et sans connaitre personne.' 
 Balzac, ' Bsquisses parisiennes.' 
 
 On the right the Rue de Grammont is pierced across the 
 site of the magnificent Hotel Crozat, which had beautiful 
 gardens and terraces.' 
 
 On the left opens the Rue Laffitte, named from the great 
 banker, who laid the foundation of his fortune by attracting 
 the attention of his master through his carefulness in picking 
 up a pin. At the end of this street is the Church of Notre 
 Dame de Lorette, built (1823-36) from designs of Le Bas. 
 
 * Germain Brice, Description de Paris^ i. 378. 
 
MARCIIE AUX POURCEAUX 487 
 
 The interior is very richly decorated by modern French 
 artists, especially Orsel, Perrin, and Roger. 
 
 ' Notre Dame de Lorette a la reputation d'Slre la plus riche et en 
 meme temps la plus coquette eglise de Paris ; on a dit d'elle que c'etait 
 un boudoir religieux. Mais cette petite eglise ne meriterait pas une 
 mention k part, si elle ne devait au luxe de ses decorations int^rieures 
 une espece de reputation, et si ce lieu qui devait etre si saint, n'avait 
 eteet n'etait encore une cause de scandale pour bien des ames pieuses.' 
 Le Bas. 
 
 The church occupies the site of the March^ aux Pour- 
 ceaux, where Jeanne de I'Epine was burnt alive in 1430 for 
 personating Jeanne Dare. 
 
 ' Cet emplacement a et^ le March^ aux Pourceaux ; 1^, dans une 
 cuTe de fer, au nom de ces princes qui, entre autre habilites mon^taires, 
 inventirent le toumois noir, et qui, au quatorzi^me si^cle, en I'espace 
 decinquante ans, trouv^rent moyen de faire sept fois de suite h. la 
 fortune publique la rognure d'une banqueroute, phenoni^ne Toyal 
 renouveie sous Louis XV. : au nom de Philippe I" qui d&lara argent 
 les especes de billon ; au nom de Louis VI. et de Louis VII., qui con- 
 traignerent tous les Franfais, les bourgeois de Compi^gne except^s, i 
 prendre des sous pour des livres ; au nom de Philippe le Bel, qui fabriqua 
 les angevins d'or douteux appeles moutons h la grande laine et moutons 
 h la Jsetite laine ; au nom de Philippe de Valois, qui altera le florin 
 Georges ; au nom du roi Jean, qui fleva des rondelles de cuir portant 
 un clou d'argent au centre a la dignite de ducats d'or ; au nom de 
 Charles VII., doreur et argenteur de liards qu'il qualifia saluts d'or et 
 hlancs d'argent; au nom de Louis XL, qui decr^ta que les hardis d'un 
 denier en valaient trois ; au nom de Henri II., lequel fit des henris d'or 
 qui etaient en plomb, pendant cinq siteles, bn a bouilli vifs les faux 
 monnoyeurs. ' — Victor Hugo. 
 
 In the Rue de Chateaudun, which passes in front of the 
 church, is Notre Dame des Blancs Manteaux, named from 
 ■ monks who called themselves ' serfs de la Sainte Vierge.' 
 The convent is now appropriated to the Mont-de-piete. 
 
 The Rue Notre Dame de Lorette leads from the Church 
 of Lorette to the new quarter known as La Nouvelle 
 
488 PARIS 
 
 Athenes. In the Ftace S. Georges, decorated with a foun- 
 tain, No. 37 was the residence of M. Thiers, destroyed 
 during the Commune, and rebuilt at the expense of the 
 State. 
 
 Hence the jRue Fontaine leads to the Boulevard de 
 Clichy, close to which is the Cimei&re Montmarire, formerly 
 called ' Le Champ de Repos.' This is less hideous than Pere 
 Lachaise, and, though it has the same characteristics of 
 heavy masses of stone, or little chapels piled upon the dead 
 and hung with wreaths of beads, they are more divided by 
 trees. At the end of the short main avenue on the left is a 
 bronze statue of Godefroy Cavaignac, by Frangois Rude 
 (1785-1855), marking the tomb of the Cavaignac family, of 
 whom the most illustrious member was Eugfene, head of the 
 executive power in 1848. 
 
 ' The body is represented in rude reality, the head with its wild 
 rough hair thrown stiffly back, the arms and hands extended, the neck, 
 breast, and shoulders bare. The rest of the body is covered by the 
 grave-cloth, in large well arranged masses. The execution, as is 
 always the case in Rude's works, is very able.' — Liibke. 
 
 Amongst other remarkable tombs, behind the crossways, 
 are those of General Bazaine and the Comte de Sdgur 
 d'Aguesseau. Near these, on the edge of the Avenue du 
 BuissoD, are the tombs of Ponson du Terrail and Henry 
 Boyle (Stendhal). 
 
 To the left of the crossways, a long avenue leads to the 
 tombs of Caussidifere, General Travot, De Bougainville, 
 and Mme de Girardin. Returning from these tombs, and 
 taking the first avenue on the left we reach, on a terrace, 
 an obelisk to the memory of the Duchesse de Montmorency 
 (1829). Near this is the monument of Prince Ernest of 
 
^ MONTMARTRE 489 
 
 Saxe-Coburg (1832). The Avenue de Montmorency leads 
 to that of Montebello, where a statue by Franceschi marks 
 the tomb of Micislas Kamienski (killed in the service of 
 France at Magenta), of Paul Delaroche, and of Marshal 
 Lannes (only his heart being here, his body at the Pan- 
 theon). To the east of this avenue is the Jewish Cemetery, 
 with its own walls, to the south of which, in the Avenue 
 Cordier, are the tombs of Henri Murger (1861) and Th^o- 
 phile Gautier (1873). On the side of the Avenue de la 
 Cloche are the tombs of Armand Marrast, president of the 
 National Assembly (1852), of Heinrich Heine (1856), of 
 Greuze, and of Carl Vernet. In another part of the ceme- 
 tery a medallion by David d' Angers marks the tomb of the 
 Duchesse d'Abrantfes, wife of Marshal Junot (1838). 
 
 The name of Montmartre is usually derived from Mons 
 Martyrum, because S. Denis, Bishop of Paris in the HI. c, 
 and his companions, Rusticus and Eleutherius, were be- 
 headed at the foot of the hill, and ' afterwards the body of 
 Dionysius rose upon its feet and, taking up its head in its 
 hands, walked up the hill, angels singing hymns by the way,' 
 to the spot where S. Genevifeve raised a church to their 
 honour. Hence, in the reign of Dagobert, the relics of 
 S. Denis were removed to the abbey of S. Denis. The 
 Chapelle des Martyrs at Montmartre, visible in the XVII. c, 
 has now disappeared. It was interesting as the place where 
 Ignatius Loyola pronounced his first vows with nine of his 
 companions (August 15, 1534). Every army which has 
 attacked Paris has in turn occupied the heights of Mont- 
 martre. They were abandoned by Joseph Bonaparte and 
 occupied by Blucher in 1814. It was there that the Com- 
 munist insurrection of 187 1 was begun. 
 
490 
 
 PARIS 
 
 From the Boulevard Rochechouart, the Rue Lepic leads 
 up to the Butte Montmartre, with the remaining Mills of 
 Montmartre — weather-worn, blackened, and picturesque. 
 An obelisk near the Moulin Debray marks the boundaries 
 of Paris. From the terrace of the Rue Lamarck there is a 
 
 MILLS OF MONTMARTRE. 
 
 splendid view over the town. A waste of grey houses 
 reaches almost to the horizon, only those nearest catch a 
 few red and yellow tones, and are very scantily interspersed 
 with green. For a panorama so vast it wants central points 
 of interest, such as S. Paul's and Westminster supply to views 
 
MONTMARTRE 491 
 
 of London — the Pantheon, S. Sulpice, and the Invalides, 
 the most prominent objects here, are not large enough. 
 Still, it is a very remarkable view, and one which no visitor 
 to Paris should miss seeing.^ It is difficult to believe that, 
 as late as the time of Henri II., there were so few buildings 
 between the Louvre and Montmartre, that when a fire broke 
 out (1559) in the dormitory of the abbey at the top of the 
 hill, the king, walking in the gallery of the palace, was one 
 of the first to perceive it and send assistance. Now, every 
 house in Montmartre might be burnt without anyone in the 
 Louvre being the wiser. 
 
 A great church — the Eglise du Sacri Cceur, from de- 
 signs of Abadie — is in progress on the highest summit of 
 Montmartre, where temples of Mars and Mercury are sup- 
 posed to have stood. 
 
 The famous quarries of Montmartre (whence the gypsum 
 called plaster of Paris was derived), now closed, are on the 
 north-west of the hill. On the south and east of the hill 
 are several dancing-gardens : that of the Chateau Rouge has 
 a house which a local legend affirms to have been built by 
 Henri IV. for Gabrielle d'Estrdes. Its name comes from 
 the red bricks with which it is partially constructed. 
 
 The Church of S. Pierre de Montmartre (in the Rue 
 S. Denis \ Montmartre) was built in the XII. c. by Louis VI. 
 (le Gros) and his queen, Alix of Savoy, and consecrated by 
 Pope Eugenius III. in the presence of S, Bernard and Peter 
 the Venerable. The church, in- which Queen Alix and 
 many abbesses were buried, now completely modernised, 
 served as a chapel to the Benedictine convent, also founded 
 by Louis VI., and rebuilt by Louis XIV. The Calvary of 
 
 * It is easily reached by omnibus from the Bourse to the Place Pigalle, below the hill. 
 
492 PARIS 
 
 the later convent remains in the garden, with a Holy Sepul- 
 chre, containing a much revered figure of Christ au tombeau \ 
 a good XII. c. tomb of an abbess, with her engraved effigy ; 
 and the chxur aux dames, reserved for the nuns. The 
 tomb of Queen Alix perished in the Revolution. This 
 convent was royal, i.e. its abbesses were appointed by the 
 king, not elected by the nuns. Marie de Beauvilliers, the 
 nun carried oif by Henri IV., described in the Amour 
 I'hilosophe — 
 
 . . . . ' Son habit blanc, 
 
 Son scapulaire, — et le rang 
 
 Qu'elle tient dans son cloltre ' — 
 
 was afterwards appointed abbess by the king and devoted 
 her latter days to the reformation of the abbey. 
 
 The abbess and the nuns of Montmartre were amongst 
 the most commiserated victims of the Reign of Terror. 
 
 ' Les charrettes charrierent au supplice toutes les religieuses de 
 I'abbaye de Montmartre. L'abbesse etait Mme de Montmorency. 
 Ces pauvres fiUes de tout ige, depuis la tendre jeiinesse jusqu'aux cheveux 
 blancs, jet^es encore enfants dans les monast^res, n'avaient pour crime 
 que la volont^ de leurs parents et la fidelity de leurs voeux. Groupies 
 autour de leur abbesse, elles entonn^rent de leurs voix Krainines les 
 chants sacr& en montant sur les charrettes, et les psalmodi^rent en 
 chceur jusqu'a I'^chafaud. Comme les Girondins avaient chante I'hymne 
 de leur propre mort, ces fllles chant^rent, jusqu'^ la dernifere voix, 
 I'hymne de leur martyre. Ces voix troubl^rent comme un remords le 
 coeur du peuple. L'enfance, la beaute, la religion, immolees \ la fois, 
 forcerent la multitude i d^toumer les yeux.' — Lamartine, 'Hist, des 
 Girondins. ' 
 
 In the Rue des Rosiers, now merged into the Rue de 
 la FonteneUe, in a private house, the first two victims of 
 the Commune — Generals Lecomte and Clement-Thomas, 
 were brutally murdered, March i8, 1871. A monument in 
 
RUE DROUOT 493 
 
 Pfere Lachaise has been erected to their memory by the city 
 of Paris. 
 
 ' Le General Lecomte a ^t^ tu^ tout de suite ; puis on a tire sur son 
 cadavre ; quant i Clement-Thomas, 5a faisait pitie ; il marchait ^ 
 reculons tenant son chapeau i la main gauche et s'abritant le visage 
 derri^re le bras droit ; le sang coulait de sa poitrine ; parfois il abaissait 
 son bras et criait i ses assassins : ' ' L§,ches ! canailles ! mis^rables ! 
 vous tuez la Republique,j)OurlaquelIe j'ai tant souffert !" ... A la fin, 
 il est tomb^ ; ils'ont continue i tirer dessus ; il a reju plus de cent 
 coups de fusil ; il avait la plante des pieds travers^e. '^—Maxime Ducamp. 
 
 Returning to the Boulevard des Italiens we find, opening 
 on the left, the Rue le Peletier, famous for the attempt of 
 Orsini to murder Napoleon III., January 14, 1858. 
 
 At the end of the Boulevard des Italiens' the Rue Drouot 
 runs north. Here the Mairie of the IX= Arrondissement 
 occupies the old Hotel Aguado. On the left is the Hotel 
 des Ventes Mobiliires, the Christie and Manson's of Paris. 
 
 In the Rue Montmartre, which falls into the Boulevard 
 on the right, was the Cimetiere S. Joseph, where Molifere was 
 buried (in 1732), and where, in severe winters, his widow 
 lighted a huge fire upon his grave, that the poor might warm 
 themselves there. 
 
 The Boulevards called Montmartre, Poissonnilre, and 
 Bonne Nouvelle continue the line of the Boulevard des 
 Italiens. In the Rue du Faubourg Poissonnifere, on the 
 north, is the Conservatoire de Musique et de Declamation, 
 founded (1784) for the training of singers and actors. Those 
 who win its Grand Prix obtain an allowance of 3000 frs. for 
 four years, that they may visit Italy. The interesting Col- 
 lection of Musical Instruments is shown on Mondays and 
 Thursdays from 12 to 4. 
 
 (The Rue Hauteville now leads north from the Boulevard 
 
494 
 
 PARIS 
 
 to the Place Lafayette and the Church of S. Vincent de Paul, 
 built (1824-44) from designs of Lepfere and Hittorf. It is 
 decorated internally with a frieze, by Hippolyte Flandrin, 
 representing a procession of saints towards the Saviour, in 
 imitation of those at S. Apollinare Nuovo at Ravenna. The 
 figures on the stalls (mutilated in 1848, and restored) repre- 
 sent the patron saints of the house of Orleans. The admir- 
 able modern glass is by Mardchal and Guyon. 
 
 A little north of S. "Vincent is the great railway station 
 of the Chemin de Per du Nbrd, and a little east that of the 
 Chemin de Per de VEst. Behind the Gare du Nord, at the 
 end of the Rue S. Vincent de Paul, is the Hofiial Lariboisilre, 
 erected (1849-53) by a bequest from the Comtesse Lariboisifere, 
 who is buried in the chapel, with a monument by Marochetti.) 
 
 On the right of the Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, which 
 leads (left) from the Boulevard, is the Rue Geoffroy-Marie, 
 a last reminiscence of the past in this modern district. Its 
 name commemorates Geoffroy, sueur [sutor"] en cuir, and his 
 wife Marie, who, having no children, made over a little farm, 
 which they possessed here, to the Hotel Dieu (August i, 
 1260), on condition of being furnished for life with the same 
 humble fare and clothing with which the brethren of the 
 Hotel Dieu were themselves provided. The property which 
 Geoffroy and Marie then disposed of was sold, in 1840, for 
 three million seventy-five thousand six hundred francs ! 
 
 The name of Grange Batelilre, on the other side of 
 the Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, was originally Grange- 
 Bataillifere, and is supposed to mark a Champ de Mars 
 of the IX. c. The farm which formerly stood here occu- 
 pied a rising ground in marshy land, commemorated in 
 'Ca& Rue Chante-Raine (frog's croak). The' site was after- 
 
PORTE S. DENIS 495- 
 
 wards occupied by a chateau which was part of the dowry 
 of Catherine de Vendome, who married Jean de Bourbon, 
 great-great-grandfather of Henri IV. 
 
 In the XVIII. c. the Rue de la Grange Batelilre be- 
 came one of the most fashionable in Paris. But its fortunes 
 paled after the death of the Due de Choiseul in 1785, and 
 the sale of his hotel in the street by, the duchess. 
 
 On the right of the Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, the Rue 
 Pourtalh was formerly the Rue Neuve S. Etienne, where (at 
 No. 30) a distich over one of the doors of the interior com- 
 memorates the residence of the anchorite historian Rollin. 
 
 ' 1697. Je commence a sentir et i aimer plus que jamais les plaisirs 
 de la vie rustique, depuis que j'ai un petit jardin qui me tient le lieu 
 d'une maison de campagne ct qui est pour moi Fleury et Villeneuve. 
 Je n'ai point de longues allfes k perte de vue, mais deux petites seule- 
 ment, dont I'une me porte de I'ombre sur un berceau assez ' propre, et 
 I'autre, exposee au niidi, me fournit du soleil pendant une bonne parti? 
 de la journde et me promet beaucoup de fruits pour la saison. Un 
 petit espalier couvert de cinq abricotiers, de dix pechers, fait tout mon 
 fruitier. Je n'ai point de ruches \ miel, mais j'ai le plaisir de voir tous 
 les jours les abeilles voltjger sur les fleurs de mes arbres, et, attachees 
 ^ leur proie, s'enrichir du sue qu'elles en tirent sans me faire aucun tort. 
 Mi joie n'est pourtant pas sans inquietude, et la tendresse que j'ai pour 
 mon petit espalier et pour quelques osillets me fait crairidre pour eux 
 le froid de la nuit que je ne sentirais pas sans cela.' — Rollin il Le 
 Pelletier. 
 
 In this Street Descartes lived, Pascal died, Bernardin 
 de S. Pierre studied, and Mme Roland was brought up in 
 the convent of Augustines (No. 6). 
 
 At the entrance of the Rue du Faubourg S. Denis, from the 
 boulevards, is the Porte S. Denis, a heavy and hideous Arch 
 of Triumph, built, as a medal attests (1670-72), by Bullet, a 
 pupil of Blondel, to commemorate the earlier German vic- 
 tories of Louis XIV. To erect this arch the ancient XIV. c. 
 
496 PARIS 
 
 Porte S. Denis on the walls of Charles V. was demolished — 
 perhaps the most interesting of the city gates. 
 
 '"Nos roys," dit Dubreul, "faisant leurs premieres entries dans 
 Paris, entrent par cette porte, qui est ornee d'un riche avant-portail, 
 oil se voyent par admiration diverses statues et figures qui sont faictes 
 et dress&s expr^s, avec plusieurs vers et sentences pour explications 
 d'icelles. . . . C'est aussi par cette porte que les corps des defuncts 
 rois sortentpour etre portez en pompes fun^bres i Saint Denys." La 
 Porte S. Denis de Paris 6tait bStie fort en saiilie sur les courtines et ' 
 formait un veritable chatelet, dans lequel on pouvait loger un corps de 
 troupes. En 1413, le due de Bourgogne se presenta devant Paris vers 
 S. Denis, dans I'intention, disait-on, de parler au roi ; mais, dit le 
 Journal d'un bourgeois de Paris sous le r^gne de Charles VI., "on lui 
 ferma les portes, et furent mur^es, comme autreffois avoit este, avec- 
 ques ce tr^s grant foison de gens d'armes les gardoient jour et nuyt.' — 
 Viollet-k-Duc. 
 
 A little way down the Rue du Sentier, which runs south 
 from the boulevard, No. 32 (left) was the house of M. 
 d'Etoiles, the husband of Mme de Pompadour ; it has a 
 good balcony towards the court, and a salon adorned with 
 paintings attributed to Fragonard. 
 
 (Running south-west is the Hue d'Aboukir, on the left of 
 which the Passage du Caire crosses the site of the convent 
 of the Filles Dieu, founded by S. Louis in 1226, before 
 which all persons condemned to be executed at the gibbet 
 of Montfaucon, stopped on their way to execution, when 
 they were taken to kiss a crucifix which hung on the east 
 wall of the church. Holy water was then given them, with 
 the more material consolation of three pieces of bread and a 
 glass of wine. A similar custom existed at S. Giles's in 
 London, for those about to suffer at Tyburn.) 
 
 A little south of the Rue d'Aboukir was the most 
 remarkable of the nine courts (in different quarters of Paris) 
 which were called Cours des Miracles, because when the 
 
5. LAZARE 497 
 
 beggars who inhabited them reached home they laid aside 
 their acting and returned to their natural condition — the 
 blind seeing, the lame walking, and the paralysed recovering 
 the use of their limbs. 
 
 ' Les mendiants furent repousses dans certains quartiers qu'on leur 
 assigna, et qu'on eut soin de farmer : le plus considerable de ces repaires 
 etait le cour des Miracles, ou cette vermine sociale se retirait k la nuit 
 tombante. Le matin, lorsque les gueux ou truands se r^pandaient par 
 la ville, tons etaient boiteux, aveugles, estropies, couverts de plaies ; le 
 soir, en rentrant dans leur taudis, ils se trouvaient dispos, ingambes, 
 joyeux, et passaient la nuit en orgies, en debauches. De ce charla- 
 tanisms speculatif viat le nom de la cour des Miracles, doune au 
 refuge de ces mendiants. '^Za/»jj«, ' Hist, de Pari^.' 
 
 The space between the Rue du Faubourg S. Denis, and 
 the Rue du Faubourg S. Martin is the busiest and most com- 
 mercial quarter of Paris. In the Rue du Faubourg S. Denis 
 (No. 107) is the Prison of S. Lazare, on the site of the Leper 
 Hospital of S. Ladre, which existed in the XII. c, and 
 which (in 1632) was given to S. Vincent de Paul, who made 
 it the centre of his Congregation des Missions (Lazaristes), 
 though he was still obliged by the archbishop to receive the 
 lepers of the town and suburbs. The cell of S. Vincent is 
 preserved as an oratory. The enclosure of the conventual- 
 buildings was so vast as to include both the site of the 
 church of S. Vincent de Paul and that of the Gare du Nord. 
 The prison is now only used for women. In the beginning 
 of the Revolution (July 13, 1789) S. Lazare was invaded and 
 sacked by the people under the idea that it was a depot of 
 arms. It was afterwards crowded with royalist prisoners, 
 and thence many noble victims, including the Comte de 
 Montalembert, passed to the scaffold. 
 
 The Boulevard Sebastopol uo^ diverges (on the right), and 
 
 K K 
 
498 PARIS 
 
 ^C^z Boulevard de Strasiourg {on the left) leading to the Gare 
 de I'Est. A considerable distance down the latter (on the 
 right), at the entrance of the Boulevard Magenta, is the 
 Church of S. Laurent, which belonged to a monastery where 
 S. Domnole was abbot in the VI. c. The older parts of 
 the church (apse and tower) are early XV. c. ; the nave and 
 transept, of the end of the XVI. c. ; and the main west 
 fajade, of 1622. There is some good stained-glass in the 
 handsome renaissance-gothic interior. 
 
 ' Le choeur et I'abside ont garde, plus que la nef, quelques details 
 d'ornementation gothique. Nous indiquerons una niche contenant une 
 grande figure de S. Jean-Baptiste, xV siecle ; des consoles sous les 
 gargouilles, telles que femmes ailees, un monstre i tete de negre et 
 grifFes de lion, &c. ; enfin, et surtout, la corniche historiee qui couronne 
 les plus hautes parties des murs. Dans la gorge de cette corniche, au 
 milieu de branches de feuillages, on voit courir et grimper une foule de 
 petits' animaux k Finvention la plus spirituelle. Des enfants, coifiKs de 
 bonnets de fous, s'amusent k faire des contorsions ; un autre 
 agenouille expose pitieusement son posterieur "au martinet d'un vieux 
 mattre d'ecole ; des anges ont des corps termines en queues de b6tes : 
 un chasseur, en costume bizarre, poursuit ^ coups de fltehes une espece 
 de salamandre.' — De Guilhermy, ^ Hist, arch, de Paris.^ 
 
 (There is a line of omnibuses down the Boulevard de 
 Strasbourg (falling into the Faubourg S. Martin and Rue 
 Lafayette) to La Villette, where Le Grand Abattoir may be 
 seeil, between the Canal S. Denis and the Canal de I'Ourcq. 
 It is worth while to ascend to the Buttes Ckaumont — 
 curious steep hillocks covered with grass, and quarried for 
 gypsum. In the further part of these, one of the mo.st 
 charming pleasure-grounds in Paris has been created — the 
 Fare des Buttes Ckaumont — with delightful drives and walks 
 winding amongst the hills, and with views which an artist 
 may well paint : on one side, across to the Pantheon and 
 
MONTFA UCON 499 
 
 the churches of the southern bank of the Seine ; on the 
 other, to where the heights of Montmartre call up a remin- 
 iscence of the Acropolis of Athens, as they stand up, 
 crowned with picturesque groups of buildings, against the 
 misty town and faint hills. The Pare des Buttes Chaumont 
 may be reached by the station of La Villette on the Chemin 
 de Fer de Ceinture. 
 
 In this district, on an offshoot of the heights of 
 Chaumont, between the Faubourg du Temple and S. 
 Martin, stood the famous gallows of Montfaucon, the 
 Tyburn of France. In feudal language this place of 
 execution was called a justice, more commonly a fourche 
 patibulaire. 
 
 ' C'^tait un massif de ma^onnerie qui s'^levait au-dessus du sol de 
 15^18 pieds ; sur le surface de ce massif, long de 42 pieds sur environ 
 30 de large, s'^levaieut seize piliers compost de fortes pierres, et dont 
 chacun avail 32 pieds de hauteur. Ces piliers support^rent de grosses 
 pieces de bois auxquelles pendaient des chaJnes de fer ; k ces chatnes 
 etaient attaches les cadavres des personnes ex^cut^es a Paris. On y 
 voyait ciiiquante a soixante corps dessechds, mutil^s, corrompus et agites 
 par les vents. Cet horrible spectacle n'empfichait pas les Parisiens de 
 venir faire la d^bauche autour de ce gibet. 
 
 * Lorsque toutes les places Etaient occupies, pour y attacher de 
 nouveaux cadavres, on descendait les plus anciens, et on les jetait dans 
 un souterrain dont I'ouverture ^tait au centre de I'enceinte. 
 
 ' On arrivait k cet affreux monument par une large rampe. . Une 
 porte solide en fermait I'enceinte, sans doute dans la crainte que les 
 cadavres ne fussent enleves par des parents pour leur donner la sepulture, 
 et par les sorciers pour leur servir a des operations magiques. ' —Dulaure, 
 * Hist, de Paris, ' 
 
 ' A little on this side Paris, even at the towns end, there is the fayrest 
 gallowes that ever I saw, built upon a small hillocke called Mount 
 Falcon, which consisteth of fourteene fair pillars of free-stone : this 
 gallowes was made in the time of the Guisian massacre, to hang the 
 admiral of France Chatillion, who was a protestaut. Anno Dom. 
 1572.' — Coryafs ' Crudities,' 1611. 
 
 K K 2 
 
500 PARIS 
 
 The gallows were really only repaired at the time Coryat 
 speaks of, and were of very early date. Pierre la Brosse 
 was hanged there in the time of Philippe III., for bearing 
 false witness against the Queen, Marie de Brabant. En- 
 guerrand de Marigny, who had himself repaired the gallows, 
 was hanged there under Louis le Hutin (1315), being unjustly 
 accused of treason by one of the courtiers. The long list of ' 
 those who afterwards suffered here comprises Remy de 
 Hontigny, the ' Provost Henri Taperel, Jourdain de ITsle, 
 Jean de Montagu, Pierre des Essarts, Olivier le Daim, 
 Jacques de Sablangay (Minister of Finance, victim of the 
 injustice of Francois I. and the avarice and falsehood of 
 his mother, Louise de Savoie), and Laurent Gamier ; and 
 here the body of Admiral Coligny was exposed.) 
 
 Returning to the Boulevard S. Denis, at the entrance of 
 the Rue du Faubourg S. Martin, is the heavy Porte S. 
 Martin, built (1670-1674) to commemorate the capture of 
 Besangon, upon the site of another gate in the old city- 
 walls of Charles V. 
 
 ' Sur un des deux c8t& de la Porte S. Martin, un sculpteur qui sans 
 doute aimoit la simple nature, a represente Louis XIV. nud, absolu- 
 ment nud, la chevelure flottante, une massue k la ras^ti.' —'Saint-Foix , 
 ' Essais hist, sur Paris' 
 
 In former times ' duels used to be fought here on the 
 boulevards, in broad daylight, without interference. 
 
 ' II se passa sous les fenetres de notre chambre, un combat terrible 
 ou Blancrochet et Daubri, les deux plus fameux bretteurs de Paris, 
 furent tues apr^s la plus vigoureuse resistance. C'etait k quatre heures 
 aprjs-midi, et tout le monde les regardait faire sans se mettre en etat 
 de les s^parer ; car k Paris, on laisse les gens se tuer quand ils en ont 
 envie. . . . M. de Lubiere, d'Orange, M. de Roncoulle et' mon oncle 
 Cotton ^taient k nos fenetres lorsque cette sc&ne se passait, et ils admir- 
 
BELLEVILLE 501 
 
 aient la bravoure de I'un de ces deux bretteurs, qui se d^fendait lui 
 seul centre quatre de ses ennemis, dont I'un lui porta enfin un coup par 
 derri^re qui le fit tomber a quatre pas de I^ aupres du corps de son cam- 
 z.i3.ie.'—Mt!iedeNoyer, ' Lettres.' 
 
 Continuing the Boulevard S. Martin (which contains 
 the Cafi Parisien and the Theatre des Folies Dramatiques), 
 the £ue du Faubourg du Temple leads (north-east) to the 
 suburban heights of Belleville, where the ' Battle of Paris ' 
 was fought (March 30, 1814), and gained by the allied 
 sovereigns, who forthwith occupied the capital. The Church 
 of S. Jean Baptiste was built (1855-59) from plans of 
 Lassus. 
 
 The Rue de Belleville leads to the Rue Haxo, where 
 forty-two hostages were murdered (May 26, 1871), including 
 ten priests and many gardiens and gendarmes. With the 
 priests was a young seminarist, Paul Seigneret, ' un jeune 
 homme de vingt-six ans,' says Ducamp, 'un etre d'une 
 candeur et d'une foi extraordinaire.' 
 
 ' Le martyre que ces malheureux eurent a supporter n'est pas con- 
 cevable. Pas un de ceux dont ils etaient entoures qui ne voulut frapper 
 son coup, japper son injure, lancer sa pierre. lis ruisselaient de sueur; 
 les soldats avaient une admirable contenance et sous les immondes 
 projectiles qui les accablaient, marchaient comme au feu dans les bons 
 jours de leur jeunesse ; derri^re eux, a haute Voix, les pretres les ex- 
 hortaient k bien mourir. II n'en ^tait pas besoin. Autour d'eux on 
 chantait, on dansait, on hurlait. . . . Les otages serres par la foule 
 etaient accules dans un espace carre assez large qu'une faible barriere 
 en bois separait d'un vaste jardin oil Ton avait commence une con^ 
 struction interrompue par la guerre. . . . On avait appliqu^ le mar^- 
 chal de logis Geanty contra la muraiUe d'une des maisons. II se tenait 
 immobile, les bras crois&, impassible sous les pierres et la boue que lui 
 jetaient les femmes. II entr'ouvrit sa tunique et pr^senta sa poitrine ; 
 un pretre ige se playa devant lui et refut le coup qui lui ^tait destine. 
 Le pretre tomba et I'on vit Geanty toujoursdebout, toujours decouvrant 
 sa poitrine ; on I'abattit. A coup de fusil, i coups de revolver on tirait 
 sur ces malheureux. Debout sur un petit balcon en bois, Hippolyte 
 
S02 PARIS 
 
 Parent, fumant un cigare, et les mains dans les poches, regardait et 
 regarda jusqu'k la fin. Le massacre ne suffisait pas ; on inventa un 
 jeu : on for9a les malheureux a sauter par-dessus le petit mur ; les 
 gendarmes sautkent ; on les tirait " au vol " et 9a faisait rire. Le 
 dernier soldat qui restait debout ^tait un garde de Paris, beau garfon 
 d'une trentaine d'aniiees, qui sans doute de service k la Comedie 
 Franyaise avail vu jouer le Lion amoureux de Ponsard ; du moins on 
 peut le croire par la fafon dont il mourut. II s'avanja paisiblement 
 vers la basse muraille qu'il fallait franchir, se retourna, salua la tourbe 
 rouge et dit : " Messieurs ! Vive I'Empereur ! " puis lanyant son k^pi en 
 I'air, fit un bond et retomba frappe de trois balles sur le monceau de 
 blesses qui s'agitaient en gemissant. On ordonna aux pretres de sauter 
 par-dessus le mur. lis refuserent. L'un d'eux dit : " Nous sommes 
 prets a confesser notre foi ; mais il ne nous convient pas de mourir en 
 faisant des cabrioles." . . . Quand on fit la lev^e des corps, le lundj 
 29 mai, on constata qu'un des cadavres avait refu soixante neuf coups 
 de feu, et que le P^re de Bengy avait ete perc^ de soixante douze coups 
 de baionnette. ' — Maxime Ducamp. 
 
 A monument now rises in the street to their memory. 
 
 The Rue Bichat leads (north) from the Rue du Fau- 
 bourg du Temple to the Hopital S. Louis, founded by 
 Henri IV. in 1607. The chapel is of that date. In the 
 entrance-court is a statue of Montyon. 
 
 It was on the ascent to Belleville that one of the great 
 barricades of 1848 was erected. 
 
 ' On apercevait au loin, au dela du canal, dans la rue qui monte 
 les rampes de Belleville, au point culminant de la montee, une muraille 
 etrange atteignant au deuxieme etage des fafades, sorte de trait d'union 
 des maisons de droite aux maisons de gauche, comme si la rue avait 
 plie d'elle-mSme son plus haut mur pour se fermer brusquement. 
 Ce mur etait bati avec des paves. II ^tait droit, correct, froid, perpen- 
 diculaire, nivele a I'equerre, tire au cordeau, align^ au fil a plomb. 
 Le ciment y manquait sans doute, mais comme Ji de certains murs 
 romains, sans troubler sa rigide architecture. A sa hauteur on devinait 
 sa profondeur. L'entablement etait math^matiquement parallele au 
 soubassement. On distinguait d'espace, sur la surface grise, des 
 meurtrieres presque invisibles qui ressemblaient \ des fils noirs. Ces 
 meurtrieres ^latent separees les unes des autres par des intervalles 
 
BOULEVARD DU TEMPLE 503 
 
 ^gaux. La rue ^tait d^serte i perte de vue;; toutes les fen^tres et 
 toutes les portes ferm^es. Au fond se dressait ce barrage qui faisait 
 de la rue un cul-de-sac ; mur immobile et tranquille ; on n'y voyait 
 personne, on n'y entendait rien, pas un cri, pas un bruit, pas un souffle. 
 Un s^pulcre. 
 
 ' L'iblouissant soleil de juin inondait de lumi^re cette chose 
 terrible. 
 
 ' C'^tait la barricade du faubourg du Temple.' — Victor Hugo, 
 ' Les Mislrables. ' 
 
 The, Boulevard du Temple leads (south-east) from the end 
 of the Boulevard S. Martin. No. 42 occupies the site of 
 the house of Fieschi, whence the infernal machine exploded 
 (July 28, 1835), killing Marshal Mortier and fourteen other 
 persons, and wounding forty. 
 
 • Fieschi, c'^tait un bravo, un condottifere, rien autre chose. II avait 
 servi et mSlait i son crime je ne sais quelles id^es militaires. " Votre 
 action est bien horrible," lui disait M. Pasquler ; " mitrailler des 
 inconnus, des gens qui ne vous ont fait aucun mal, des passants ! " 
 Fieschi r^pliqua froidement : " C'est ce que font des soldats en em- 
 buscade. ' — Victor Hugo, ' Choses vues. ' 
 
 The Boulevard is much altered — all its character gone — 
 
 since we read — 
 
 ' La seul' prom'nade qu'ait du prix. 
 La seule dont je suis epris, 
 La seule, oil j'm'en donne, ou c'que j'ris, 
 C'est I'boul'vard du Temple i Paris.' — Dhaugiers. 
 
 In the Place de la Republique (formerly the Chateau 
 d'Eau) is a tasteless bronze Statue of the Republic, with 
 representations on its pedestal from scenes in the different 
 revolutions ; an animal, meant for a lion, crouches in front. 
 
 ' Bient6t commencent les boulevards deserts, sans promeneurs, les 
 landes de cette promenade royale. L'ennui vous y saisit, I'atmosph^re 
 des fabriques se sent de loin. II n'y a plus rien d'original. Le rentier 
 s'y promene en robe de chambre, s'il veut ; et, par les belles journees, 
 on y voit des aveugles qui font leur partie de cartes. In fiscem desinit 
 
504 PARIS 
 
 elegantia. On y expose sur des tables de petits palais en fer ou en 
 verre ; les boutiques sont hideuses, les ^talag^s sont infects. La t^te 
 est i la Madeleine, les pieds sont au boulevard des Filles-du-Calvaire. 
 La vie et le mouvement recommencent sur le boulevard Beaumarchais, 
 k cause des boutiques de quelques marchands de bric-k-brac, ^ cause 
 de la population qui s'agglomfere autour de la colonne de Juillet. II y 
 a W un theitre qui de Beaumarchais n'a pris que le nom. ' — Balzac, 
 ' Esquisses farisiennes.' 
 
 Returning as far as the Boulevard Montmartre, the Rue 
 
 Vivienne diverges on the left.' Here is the Bourse (the 
 
 Exchange, open on week-days from 12 to 3), built (1808-27) 
 
 from plans of Brongniart — magnificent, yet not undeserving 
 
 of the description ' grenier k foin, batard du Parthenon.' 
 
 • There is nothing concealed except the central hall, which is 
 
 the one thing that ought to be shown.' 
 
 ' The building is merely a rectangular palace. It is 234 feet in 
 length by 161 in width, measured over the bases of the columns, and 
 these are each 40 feet in height. Two of the stories of windows are 
 shown beneath the colonnade, the third partially concealed by its 
 balustrade at the top ; but the existence of the attic prevents the roof 
 having any connection with the peristyle, and, as the proportions 
 of the building approach much more nearly to a square than they 
 ought, the roof is far too heavy and important for the rest of the edifice. 
 Notwithstanding all this, a peristyle of sixty-six well-proportioned 
 Corinthian columns (twenty on each flank and fourteen on each front, 
 counting the angle pillars both ways) cannot fail to produce a certain 
 effect ; though more might have been produced by a less expenditure of 
 means. ' — Fergusson. 
 
 ' Quant au palais de la Bourse, qui est grec par sa colonnade, 
 romain par le plein-cintre et ses portes et fenfires, de la renaissance 
 par sa grande volite surbaissee, c'est indubitablement un monument 
 trfes-correct et tr^s pur ; la preuve, c'est qu'il est couronn^ d'un attique 
 comme on n'en voyait pas k Ath^nes, belle ligne adroite gracieusement 
 coupfe ci et lb, par des tuyaux de poSle.' — Victor Hugo. 
 
 The annual amount of business transacted on the 
 Bourse is estimated at 2,000,000,000/. 
 
 * Formerly Vivien, after Louis, Michel, and Anne Vivien, ancient possessors of 
 the soil. 
 
BIBLIOTHtQUE NATIONALS 505 
 
 We must cross in front of the Bourse to the £ue de 
 Richelieu ' — the magnificent street which the great cardinal 
 pierced to indemnify himself for his expenses in building 
 the Palais Cardinal. Turning south, we find (on the 
 left) the great buildings of the Bibliotheque Nationale. The 
 library is open for study from 10 to 4 ; the collections are 
 only visible to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays from 
 10.30 to 4. The first national library' was that of Charles V. 
 (1373), afterwards sold to theDuke of Bedford and carried to 
 England. Louis XI. brought together at the Louvre all the 
 volumes dispersed throughout the different royal residences, 
 and this collection was carried by Louis XII. to Blois, where 
 the library of Pavia was added to it. Francois I. began a 
 new and magnificent collection at Fontainebleau, and moved 
 that of Blois to his new palace. The library united there 
 was transferred to the convent of the Cordeliers, and in 
 1666 to the Rue Vivienne. It was e"normously increased 
 under Louis XIII., Louis XIV. and Louis XV. At the 
 suppression of convents in the Revolution their precious 
 libraries were added to the national collection, which now 
 possesses above 100,000 MSS. of importance. 
 
 The library occupies part of the magnificent hotel of 
 Cardinal Mazarin. The cardinal bought the hotel of 
 President Tubeuf, built by Le Muet, at the corner of the 
 Rue Vivienne, and the Hotel Chivry, at the corner of the 
 Rue Richelieu. These he united in one splendid palace, 
 in which his private library (confiscated during his exile 
 and afterwards gradually recovered) occupied the great 
 gallery. Here also he formed the magnificent collection of 
 pictures which were the delight of his latter years. 
 
 ^ On the Boulevard, between the entrance to the Rue Vivienne and the Rue de 
 Richelieu, is the .shop of Messrs. Goupil, the engravers, of European celebrity. 
 
5o6 PARIS 
 
 ' After a consultation of nine physicians, Gueneau, the cardinal's 
 medical attendant, undertook to warn him of his approaching end. It 
 was thought advisable to exchange the noise and bustle of the Palais 
 Mazarin for the quiet of his chateau of Vincennes, and the stricken 
 virtuoso determined to take a last farewell of his treasures. With his tall 
 figure, ashy-pale and wasted, enveloped tout nu in his fur-lined dressing- 
 gown, he stole into his picture galleries, and the Comte de Brienne, 
 hearing the shuffling sound of his slippers as he dragged his limbs 
 feebly and wearily along, hid himself behind the arras. At each step 
 the cardinal's weakness obliged him to halt, and he murmured, "I 
 must leave all this ! " He went further on, holding, so as to support 
 himself, first on one object and then on another,, and as he looked 
 round at each pause he said again, with a deep sigh, " I must leave all 
 this. " At length he saw Brienne, and called to him in a very mourn- 
 ful voice, ' ' Give me your hand : I am very weak, and quite helpless ; 
 still I like to walk, and I have something to do in my library." Lean- 
 ing on the count's arm, he pointed to his favourite pictures. " See," he 
 said, "this beautiful canvas of Correggio, and this Venus of Titian, 
 and this incomparable Deluge of Caracci. Ah, my poor friend, I must 
 leave all this. Adieu, ray dear pictures, which I have loved so well ! " ' 
 Quarterly Review, No. 309. 
 
 After the death of the cardinal, his books were taken to 
 the College Mazarin, with the wood-carving of his library, 
 and now form the Bibliothfeque Mazarine. His palace was 
 divided between his heirs. The Hotel Tubeuf fell to the 
 Due de la Meilleraye, the other parts to the Marquis de 
 Mancini, Due de Nivernais, who gave them the name of 
 Hotel de Nevers. The Hotel Tubeuf, bought by Louis 
 XIV., became the seat of the Compagnie des Indes ; after- 
 wards the Bourse was installed there, and remained there 
 till the present century. The H6tel de Nevers was used 
 for the bank of Law, and in 1721 was bought by the Regent, 
 that the Bibliothfeque du Roi might be placed there. 
 
 The older parts of the existing building belong to what 
 was once the Hotel Tubeuf ; the Hotel Chivry has been 
 pulled down. 
 
BIBLIOTHkQUE NATIONALE 507 
 
 The library is entered by visitors from the Rue Richelieu 
 by the door nearest the boulevards. Passing the Salle de 
 Travail, and ascending the staircase, hung with a tapestry 
 from Chiteau Bayard, they find, in an anteroom, the 
 curious bronze Parnasse JFranfais, executed by Titon du 
 Tillet in 1721. The Apollo, who is attended by the nine 
 Muses, is Louis XIV. 
 
 The magnificent Galerie Mazarine, which looks upon 
 the Rue Vivienne, has a beautiful mythological ceiling by 
 Rovianelli, and is one of the finest galleries of its date in 
 existence. 
 
 ' The progress of the Palais Mazarin excited the liveliest interest 
 among the Court ladies. All classic mythology was to be reproduced 
 upon the ceiling of the great galleries ; and, as a bevy of beauties 
 looked on approvingly, Romanelli silently introduced the portrait of the 
 fairest into his design. On their next visit the likeness was detected, 
 and a clamour of discontent and jealousy arose. In vain did the artist 
 plead, " How could I, with one pair of hands, paint you all at once ? ' 
 He could only appease them by painting every one of them in turn.' — 
 Quarterly Review, No. 309. 
 
 Here many of the great MS. treasures of France are 
 exhibited in cases— the 'Evangiles de Charlemagne'; 
 ' Evangiles ' of the Emperor Lothaire ; ' Evangiles des 
 Messes' of the time of S. Louis ; Bible and Psalm-book of 
 S. Louis, Bible of Charles le Chauve, Bible of Philippe le 
 Bel, and Bible of Louis XL ; a ' Vie de S. Denis,' which be- 
 longed to Philippe le Long ; ' Les Vigiles de Charles VII. ' ; 
 a copy of the ' Evangiles ' given to the Sainte Chapelle 
 by Charles V. (1379) ; the ' Armorial G^n^ral de Gilles 
 de Bouvier, premier hdraut de Charles VII.' ; the ' Livre 
 d'Heures de Louis XIV.,' &c. 
 
 The collection of bindings — in metal, ivory, and leather 
 — is most important and beautiful. Specimens are shown 
 
So8 PARIS 
 
 of the earliest books printed in France. There is a rich 
 collection of autographs, including the MS. sermons of 
 Bossuet, of the Pens'ees of Pascal, the Tklkmaque of 
 Fdnelon, and letters of Voltaire, Rousseau, Montesquieu, 
 La Bruyere, Mme de Maintenon, Mme de S6vign^, 
 Turenne, Racine, Boileau, Corneille, Moli^re, Malherbe, 
 Diderot, Lesueur, Pfere Lachaise, S. Francois de Sales, S. 
 Vincent de Paul, &c. 
 
 The interesting portrait of King John — ' Jehan Rey de 
 France ' — formerly in the Sainte Chapelle, is now preserved 
 here, and La Cuve de Dagobert, brought from Poitiers, in 
 which S. Martin is said to have been baptised by S. Hilaire. 
 A side gallery is hung with ancient charters and maps. 
 
 A door lower down the Rue de Richelieu is the entrance 
 to the Collection of Bronzes, Medals, 6-r. The principal 
 treasures are shown in cases in the centre of the rooms on 
 the right, and comprise many valuable specimens of old 
 church plate, especially an exquisite XI. c. chalice from S. 
 Reniy at Rheims, and many specimens from S. Denis ; the 
 treasures found in a shrine of Mercury near Berthon- 
 ville, in 1830 ; and the cup of Chosroes I., King of Persia 
 (57s), from the treasury of S. Denis, where it was shown as 
 the cup of Solomon. The Collection of Cameos is of 
 marvellous beauty, and includes a priceless Apotheosis of 
 Augustus^the largest cameo in the world — which formed 
 part of the treasure of the Sainte Chapelle. Charles V. 
 imagined that it represented the triumph of the patriarch 
 Joseph, and, as such, had it framed in enamel, with the 
 four Evangelists. A room to the left is devoted to the 
 collections bequeathed by the Due de Luynes (1867). 
 
 Behind the Library (a little east) is the Church of Notre 
 
PLACE DES VICTOIRES; 509 
 
 Dame des Victoires or des Fetits Fires, founded by Louis 
 XIII. (in 1629) to commemorate the victories over the 
 protestants at La Rochelle, and given to the Augustins 
 dechausses, known in Paris as Fetits Fires. In the first 
 chapel (right) is the tomb of Jean Vassal, secretary of Louis 
 XIII,, by Cotton. The chapel of the Virgin, a famous 
 goal of pilgrimage, is covered with ex-votos. 
 
 A few steps east take us into the circular Flace des 
 Victoires, constructed from designs of Mansart (1685), at 
 the expense of a private individual — the Due de la Feuil- 
 lade — ' le courtisan qui a passd tous les courtisans,' ' on the 
 site of the Hotel d'Emery and the Hotel de Senneterre, to 
 flatter Louis XIV. The bronze statue of the king, by 
 Desjardins,^ was placed in the centre, trarophng on a Cerberus, 
 whose three heads represented the triple alliance. At the 
 angles of the pedestal, inscribed ' Viro immortali,' were the 
 four statues of chained nations, now at the Hotel des 
 Invalides. The statue of the king was destroyed in the 
 Revolution, and replaced by a ridiculous plaster pyramid, 
 with inscriptions recording the republican victories. This 
 was exchanged, in 1806, for a bronze statue of Desaix, melted 
 down in 1814 to make the present periwigged equestrian 
 statue by Bosio, erected by ' Ludovicus XVIII. atavo suo.' 
 
 ' Si je traverse la place des Victoires, je me dis : on voloit en plein 
 jour sur ce terrein oil I'on voit aujourd'hui la figure d'un Roi qui vou- 
 loit etre conquerant. Le quartier s'appelloit hquartier Vuide-Gousset, 
 Un petit bout de rue, qui conduit k la place ou le Souverain est repre- 
 sente en bronze, en a retenu le nom ; et dans cette place des Victoires, 
 qui a si long-temps revoke I'Europe, je ne puis m'empScher de me 
 rappeller ce courtisan qui, selon I'Abbe de Choisy, avoit eu le dessein 
 d'acheter une cave dans I'eglise des Petits-Pferes, de la pousser sous 
 
 ^ Mme de Sdvignd. '^ Martin Van Den Bogaert. 
 
510 
 
 PARIS 
 
 terre jusqu'au milieu de cette place, afin de se faire enterrer et de 
 pourrir religieusement sous la statue de Louis XIV., son maltre, 
 I'homme immorteV — Tableau de Paris. 
 
 Close to the Place des Victoires is the Hotel des Pastes, 
 finished 1887. In the Rue du Mail (which runs north- 
 east from the Place des Victoires to the Rue de Cldry), the 
 residence of Colbert, at No. 7 — a very richly ornamented 
 house— is commemorated by the serpents (his arms) in the 
 decorations. No. 278 Rue de Clery was the house of 
 Cagliostro. The famous Mme Lebrun had her studio in • 
 this street. 
 
 Close to the Place des Victoires (on the south-west) is 
 the Bahque de France^ in the Rue de la Vrilliire, which 
 commemorates the hotel built (in 1620) for Raymond "Phd- 
 lippeaux, Due de la Vrillifere, Secretary of State, by Frangois 
 Mansart. It was bought from the family of La Vrillifere, in 
 1705, by M. Rouill6, afterwards Directeur-G^n^ral des 
 Finances, and, in 17 13, it was purchased by the Comte de 
 Toulouse, son of Louis XIV. and Mme de Montespan, who 
 gave it a new name and employed the royal architect, 
 Robert Cotte, to change its arrangements, Nicholas Coustou 
 in its sculptures, and Oudry in its pictorial decorations. 
 Here the Count, who was 'I'honneur, la droiture, I'dquitd 
 meme,' ^ lived with his beloved wife, who was sister of the 
 Due de Noailles, and widow (when twenty-four) of the 
 Marquis de Gondrin. Their only son was the brave Due 
 de Penthifevre, who married Marie Th^rfese d'Este. His 
 only daughter married Philippe Egalitd, Due d'Orldans, in 
 1769, and, in the chapel of the hotel, his son, the Prince 
 de Lamballe, was married (in 1767) to Louise de Savoie 
 
 * S. Simon. 
 
HOTEL DE TOULOUSE 511 
 
 Carignan, the unfortunate friend of Marie Antoinette, who, 
 after the death of her dissipated husband, had a home 
 here with her father-in-law, who vainly strove to avert her 
 fate, and bitterly lamented her — purchasing the head of his 
 beloved child at an enormous price from her assassins. 
 
 ' " Je crois toujours I'entendre," disait le due de Penthi^vre dans ses 
 derniers entretiens avec sa fille, " je crois toujours la voir assise pr^s de la 
 fenetre dans ce petit cabinet. Vous souvenez-vous, ma fille, avec quelle 
 assiduite elle y travaillait du matin au soir k des ouvrages de son sexe 
 pour les pauvres ! J'ai passe bien des ann^es avec elle, — je n'ai jamais 
 surpris une pensee dans son inie qui ne fut pour la reine, pour moi ou 
 pour les malheureux : et voili I'ange qu'ils ont mis en pieces. Ah ! 
 je sens que cette idee creuse mon tombeau ; il me semble que je suis 
 complice de sa mort, que j'aurais dfl la forcer a retourner dans sa faniille, 
 que c'est son attachement pour moi qui a cause sa perte. " ' — ' Vie du due 
 de Penihiivre,^ Paris, 1803, 
 
 Into the palace of the Due de Penthibvre, which 
 ' exhaled the perfume of virtue, and which calumny never 
 dared to corrupt,'' the young poet Florian was admitted 
 as a page, afterwards becoming captain of the Penthi^vre 
 dragoons, and gentleman-in-waiting to the semi-royal 
 duke, and many of his idyls and fables were written 
 here. Upon the death of the Due de Penthifevre (in 1793) 
 his body was thrown ignominously into the common ditch, 
 and the National Printing Office was established in his 
 hotel, where it remained till 1808. But in 1803 the Bank 
 of France had purchased the hotel from the Government, 
 and in 181 1 it entered upon its occupation. The buildings 
 have since been greatly increased, and the most remark- 
 able remains left from the famous Hotel de Toulouse are, 
 externally, the projecting angle by Mansart, bracketed over 
 the Rue Radziwill, which is regarded as a masterpiece of 
 
 ^ Charles Nodier, preface of the Fables de Florian, 
 
512 PARIS 
 
 stone-work ; and, internally, the incomparable Galerie 
 Dork of Mansart. The interior is not shown without a 
 special permission, to be obtained by written application to 
 the governor. 
 
 In the Rue du Bouloi, which leads north-east near this, • 
 No. 4 is a very fine old mansion, and No. ii, the Hotel 
 des Empires, was the hotel of the Mardchal de Cldram- 
 bault, the friend of S. Evremond ; the staircase ha;s a 
 splendidly-wrought iron balustrade. 
 
 Between the Rue du Bouloi and the Rae Jean Jacques 
 Rousseau, formerly Grenelle S. Honors (entered from the. 
 latter at No. 41), the Cours des Fermes occupy the site 
 of the Hotel de Condd, built by Frangoise d'Orldans 
 Rothelin ,' fort belle et trfes-honeste princesse,' ' in order the 
 better to be able to pay her court to Catherine de Medicis,^ 
 who had left the Tuileries for the Hotel de Soubise. It 
 took the name of Hotel de Soissons under her son, Charles 
 de Bourbon. He sold it to Henri de Bourbon, Due de Mont- 
 pensier, whose daughter was the first wife of Gaston d'Or- 
 l^ans. By his widow it was sold to the handsome Roger 
 de S. Larry, Due de Bellegarde, who employed Andronet 
 Ducerceau to rebuild it magnificently, but was exiled to 
 Anjou by Henri IV. for being too familiar with Gabrielle 
 d'Estrdes. At a later date the poet Racan lived in the 
 hotel as page of M. de Bellegarde. In 1633 the house was 
 bought by Chancellor Siguier, who received Louis XIV. 
 and Anne of Austria here at a splendid banquet and ball 
 to celebrate the end of the war of the Fronde, and who 
 first conceived the idea of the Acaddmie Frangaise, founded 
 
 ^ Bratitome, Vie des dames ga-lantes. 
 " Piganlol de la Force, Desc. de Paris. 
 
COUR DES FERM-ES 
 
 S13 
 
 by Richelieu. After tlie death of the cardinal he was chosen 
 president of the society, and for thirty years its meetings 
 were held at the Hotel Siguier. The chancellor died here 
 in 1672, and his magnificent funeral service at the Oratoire 
 
 hAteL DE TOULOUSE (bANQUE DE TRANCe). 
 
 is described by Mme de S^vignd. His hotel was then pulled 
 down, and the Hotel des Fermes du Roi built on its site by 
 Ledoux. At the Revolution this was sequestrated and 
 became a prison, then a theatre, finally a diligence office. 
 Little now remains of it. 
 
 L L 
 
SH 
 
 PARIS 
 
 In the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs^ which leads west- 
 wards from the Place des Victoires, No. 45, at the corner of 
 the Rue S. Anne, is the noble mansion of Lulli, built for him 
 by Gittard in 167 1, with 11,000 livres (lent by Molibe, and 
 only repaid in ingratitude). The land which Lulli purchased 
 for building, and which up to that time remained quite un- 
 occupied, was at the foot of the hillock called Butte S. Roch. 
 Lulli, who died in the house, bequeathed it to his father-in- 
 law, Lambert. It is very richly adorned with Corinthian 
 capitals, comic masks, and a sheaf of lyric attributes. The 
 'Hotel de S. Pouange, on the opposite side of the Rue 
 S. Anne, was destroyed by the Rue Chabanais. 
 
 The Rue des Petits Champs became the great centre 
 for the wig-makers of the XVIII. c, from having been the 
 residence of M. Binet, wig-maker to Louis XIV., and inventor 
 of the decoration which, at first, was called a dinette. 
 
 ' Les perruques s'^tablirent sur toiites les t8tes. Louis XIV. et 
 toute sa cour en portaient qui pesaient plusieurs livres, et co&aient 
 jusqu'i mille ecus ; les tresses descendaient sur les handles, et le toupet 
 dominait sur le front k une hauteur de cinq k six pouces. Plus la 
 binette ^tait large, plus le respect du peuple croissait.' ' — Salgues, ' De 
 Paris.' 
 
 The next side street on the left of the Rue des Petits 
 Champs, beyond the Rue S. Anne, is the Rue des Moulins, 
 which records the windmills on the Butte S. Roch, the now 
 levelled hill, which rose behind the church on this site. 
 
 Nearly the whole space between the Rue S. Anne and 
 the Rue de Gaillon (right) was at one time occupied by the 
 magnificent Hotel de Lyonne, which then gave a name to 
 that part of the Rue des Petits Champs. Under its later 
 
 * At present, when the common people wish to describe that a hea'd is ridiculous^ 
 they say ' Quelle binette ! ' 
 
PLACE LOUVOIS 515 
 
 denomination of Hotel Pontchartain it served as a residence 
 for Ambassadors Extraordinary; coming to Paris. On the 
 front of the principal fagade was the immense sundial 
 which Rousseau, who lived opposite, made use of for the 
 education of Thdrfese. ' Pendant plus d'un mois,' he says in 
 his Confessions, 'je m'efforgai de lui faire connaitre les 
 heures. A peine les sait-elle k present.' 
 
 ^Returning to the Rue de Richelieu, the H6tel du Com- 
 mandeur de Jars, famous during the Fronde, was built by 
 Mansart. The Hotel de Flntendant Foucault retains some 
 of its ancient decorations. 
 
 Opening from the Rue de Richelieu, opposite the library, 
 is the Place Louvois, with a graceful fountain by Visconti, 
 marking the site of the Opera House where the Due de 
 Berry was murdered (February 13, 1820). The duke had 
 just handed the duchess into her carriage, and was about to 
 re-enter the Opera House, when Pierre Louis Louvel^ 
 having knocked down the aide-de-camp, M. de Beauffre- 
 mont, seizing the prince by the arm, plunged a dagger into 
 his side. The duke cried, ' I am murdered ! ' The duchess 
 jumped out of the carriage with her lady, Mme de Bdthizy^ 
 and she herself drew out the dagger and was covered with 
 blood. The Due and Duchesse d'Arigouleme were sum- 
 moned at once with the Dues de Bourbon and d'Orldans, and 
 at 5 A.M. the king arrived, to whom th"fe Due de Berry said 
 at once, ' Sire, permettez que la dernifere gr3.ce que je vous 
 demande soit celle de mon assassin ! ' Louis XVIII. only 
 answered, ' II n'est plus temps de parler de cela ; ne 
 songeons qu'k vous.' 
 
 ' "Ah ! vous ne dites pas oui," reprit le due avec un accent de 
 doute douloureux. " Oh ! dites-le, dites le, afin queje meurs tranquille"! 
 
Si6 PARIS 
 
 Grace, grace de la vie pour rhomme !" . . . . II expira peu de moments 
 apres. 
 
 ' II mourut dans I'acte de pardon : grande ame obscurcie dans la vie, 
 eclatante h. la mort, heros de clemence, ayant du premier coup fait ce 
 qu'il y a de plus difficile et de plus meritoire pour I'homme : bien 
 mourir.' — Lamartine. 
 
 Louvel fled by the Rue de Richelieu, whence he tried 
 to reach the Rue Vivienne by the Passage Colbert, where 
 he was arrested. A Chapelle Expiatoire, erected in the 
 Rue de Richelieu to the Due de Berry, was demolished, in 
 spite of the eloquent remonstrance of Balzac. 
 
 The Rue Therese, which falls into the Rue de Richelieu 
 on the right, commemorates Marie Th&fese, queen of 
 Louis XIV. 
 
 A fountain erected at the angle of the Rues de la Fon- 
 taine Molifere and de Richelieu, in 1844, commemorates 
 the death of the poet in the house of the tailor Baudelet, 
 the opposite house (No. 34), which has been since rebuilt. 
 
 ' Au milieu de I'ardente activite de ses travaux, au milieu des joies 
 de ses triomphes, Moli^re sentait la vie lui echapper. Le 17 fevrier, 
 1673, il devait jouer dans Le malade imaginaire le rSle d'Argan, qu'il 
 avail deji rempli plusieurs fois. Comme il souffrait de la poitrine plus 
 qu'i I'ordinaire, on voulut le d^tourner de paraitre sur la sc^ne ce 
 soir-li. " Eh ! que feront," dit-il, . " tant de pauvres ouvriers qui n'ont 
 que leur journ^e pour vivre ? Je roe lepiocherais d'avoir n6glig^ de 
 leur donner du pain un seul jour, le pouvant faire absoluinent." II 
 joua, et dans le divertissement de la piece, au moment oil il prononyait 
 le mot ;'«ro, il lui prit une convulsion qu'il essaya vaineraent de cacher 
 sous un ris forcfe. On le transporta chez lui. II se mit i cracher le 
 sang en abondance, et mourut quelques heures apres, entre les bras de 
 deux religieuses qui ^talent venues queter i Paris pendant le careme, et 
 auxquelles il avait donn^ Thospitalite dans sa maison. II etait Sge de 
 51 ans. Le monarque qui I'ayait soutenu pendant sa vie contre le zele 
 fanatique des divots aurait du proteger sa cendre contre leurs anathemes 
 et leurs outrages. Mais le prejuge qui subsistait alors dans toute sa 
 force contre la profession de comedien, ne permit k Louis XIV. aucune 
 
PALAIS ROYAL 517 
 
 d-marche pour faire respecter les restes du grand homme qui avait 
 illustr^ son r^gne. Toutes les ^glises se ferm^rent devant le corps de 
 Moliire, et ce ne fut que par grice qu'on put le conduire sans ppmpe et 
 sans honneur au cimeti^re Saint-Joseph. Les anath^mes du clerg^ 
 avaient attir^ le jour du convoi, autour de sa maison, une populace 
 tumultueuse et inena9ante, et cette foule etlt peut-etre insult^ son 
 cadavre, si sa veuve, effrayte, n'ellt jete de I'argent par les fen6tres, et 
 calm^ par ce moyen la fureur superstitieuse de ces mis^rables.' — 
 P. le Bas. 
 
 No. 25, Rue Fontaine Mol&re (formerly Rue Traver- 
 sifere), at the corner of the Rue du Clos-Georgeau, was in- 
 habited by Voltaire, with Mme du Chatelet, 'la sublime 
 Emilie.' After her death, in 1749, Voltaire shared the house 
 with Lekain, the actor. 
 
 South of the National Library, flights of steps will lead 
 us down into the Palais Royal. It was built by Cardinal 
 Richelieu (1624-34), s-i^d known at first as Palais Cardinal. 
 
 ' Quelque Amphion nouveau, sans I'aide des mafons, 
 En superbes palais a changi ces- buissons ; 
 Paris voit tous les jours de ces metamorphoses. 
 Dans tout le Pre-aux-Clercs tu verras memes choses; 
 Et I'univers entier ne peut rien voir d'egal 
 Aux superbes dehors du palais cardinal. 
 
 Corneille, ' Le Menteur,^ Act ii, sc, 5. 
 
 The great cardinal died here December 4, 1642, be- 
 queathing his palace to the king, Louis XIIL, who only 
 survived him five months. But in the following year 
 Anne of Austria came to live here with her two children,, 
 Louis XIV., then aged five, and Philippe d'Orl^ans. The. 
 Duchesse d'Orl^ans ^ declares- that, during her residence 
 here, the Queen Regent, not contented with Ibving Cardinal 
 Mazarin, ended by marrying him, and that the secret pas- 
 
 ' Mimoires de Madame. 
 
Si8 PARIS 
 
 sage by which he reached the queen's chamber was to be 
 seen at the Palais Royal in her time. When Queen Anne 
 came to reside in it, the name of the palace was changed 
 to Palais Royal. The splendid gallery, with a ceiling by 
 Philippe de Champaigne, which had been built by the car- 
 dinal, was then destroyed : it occupied the site of the 
 present Rue de Valois, and was called La Gakrie des 
 Hommes Jllustres, from the twenty-four portraits with which 
 it was hung, amongst which the cardinal did not scruple to 
 include his own, as well as that of Louis XIII. The only 
 building remaining of the time of Richelieu is part of the 
 second court, on the right, adorned by doric pilasters. 
 
 Henrietta Maria, Queen of England, daughter of 
 Henri IV., was allowed, in her exile, to reside in the Palais 
 Royal with her daughter Henrietta, who afterwards became 
 its mistress, as the wife of Philippe I., Due d'Orl^ans, to 
 whom it was given by Louis XIV. 
 
 Under Philippe II. d'Orl^ans, the. palace became the 
 scene of the celebrated suppers and orgies which disgraced 
 the Regency. 
 
 ' II s'accoutuma k la d^bauche, plus encore au bruit de la dibauche, 
 jusqu'a n'avoir pu s'en passer, et il n'y divertissait qu'a force de bruit, 
 de tumulte et d'exces. C'est ce qui le jeta k en faire souvent de si 
 etranges et de si scandaleuses, et comme il voulait Temporter sur tous 
 les d^bauch^s^, i mgler dans ses parties les discours les plus impies et a 
 trouver un raffinement pr^cieux i faire des debauches les plus outr^es, 
 aux jours les plus saints, comme il lui arriva pendant sa regence plusieurs 
 fois le vendredi saint de choix et les jours les plus respectables. Plus 
 on ^tait suivi, ancien, outre' en impi^t^ et en debauche, plus il con- 
 siderait cette sorte de dftauches, et je I'ai vu sans cesse dans I'admira- 
 tion poussee jusqu'k la veneration pour le grand-prieur, parce qu'il 
 y avait quarante ans qu'il ne s'^tait couche qu'ivre, et qu'il n'avait 
 cesse d'entretenir publiquement des maitresses et de tenir des propos 
 continuels d'impiet^ et d'irreligion. Avec de tels principes et la con- 
 
PALAIS ROYAL 519 
 
 duite en consequence, il n'est pas surprenant qu'il ait ^t^ faux jusqu'i 
 I'indiscretion de se vanter de I'^tre, et de se piquer d'etre le plus 
 raffing trompeur. 
 
 ' Madame ^tait pleine de contes et de petits romans de fees. Elle 
 disait qu'elles avaient toutes ^te conviees k ses couches, que toutes y 
 itaient venues, et que chacune avait doue son fils d'un talent, de softe 
 qu'il les avait tous ; mais que par malheur on avait oubli^ une vieille 
 fee disparue depuis si long-temps qu'on ne se souvenait plus d'elle, qui, 
 piquee de I'oubli, vint appuy^e sur son petit Mton et n'arriva qu'apres 
 que toutes les fees eurent fait chacune leur don i I'enfant ; que, 
 depitte de plus en plus, elle se vengea en le donnant de rendre absolu- 
 ment inutiles tous les talents qu'il avait re9us de toutes les autres fees, 
 d'aucun desquels, en les conservant tous, il n'avait jamais pu se servir. 
 II faut avouer qu'i prendre la chose en gros le portrait est parlant.' 
 5'. Simon, ^ Mimoires,'' 1715. 
 
 Under Louis Philippe (grandson of the Regent 
 
 d'Orl^ans) a great part of the palace was destroyed by fire, 
 
 which led the next duke, Louise Philippe Joseph (Philippe 
 
 Egalitd), father of King Louis Philippe, to design great 
 
 alterations, including the arcades surrounding the gardens, 
 
 which he let to tradesmen, thereby making his palace the 
 
 most magnificent bazaar in the world. It was this duke who 
 
 was the remorseless enemy of Marie Antoinette, and who 
 
 looked unmoved from the balcony upon the head of his 
 
 own sister-in-law, the Princesse de Lamballe, when her 
 
 assassins brought it from La Force to be exhibited to him. 
 
 'The Duke of Dorset told me, that as early as 1786, or 1787, the 
 queen [Marie Antoinette] had said to him, on her seeing the Duke of 
 Orleans at Versailles : " Monsieur le Due, regardez cat homme-la. 
 II me deteste, et il a juri ma perte. Je le vois dans ses yeux, toutes 
 les fois qu'il me fixe. II ne sera jamais content, jusqu'i ce qu'il me voit 
 etendue morte i ses pieds." ' — WraxalVs ' Memoirs.' 
 
 The duke was arrested here, April 4, 1793, with his 
 third son, the Comte de Beaujolais, and executed on 
 November 6. 
 
520 PARIS 
 
 Under tlie first consul the building became known as 
 Palais du Tribunat. Lucien, Prince of Caniho, inhabited it 
 during the hundred days. In 1814 it became once more 
 the Palais Royal, and was given back to the Orleans family, 
 who restored and purified it. Hither, in July 1830, Louis 
 Philippe, prompted by his ambitious sister, Mademoiselle 
 d'Orl^ans, came from Neuilly to receive the offer of the 
 throne, contrary to the wish of the duchess, who ' lui fit des 
 adieux pleins de larmes, comme k une victictie qui allait se 
 d^vouer au salut de son pays.' ' 
 
 In the revolution of 1848 the Palais Royal was sacked 
 by the people, who destroyed most of the works of art it con- 
 tained. In 1852 it became theresidence of JdrSme Bonaparte, 
 ex- King of Westphalia, after whose death, in i860, his son 
 Prince Jerome NapoKon, resided there till September 1870. 
 In May 1871, a great part of the palace was burnt by the 
 Commune. The principal buildings are now occupied by 
 the Conseil d'Etat, the Aile Montpensier t^ the Cour des 
 Comptes, and the portion of the Aile de Valois looking upon . 
 the second court and the garden, by the Direction des Beaux- 
 Arts. The interior of the palace has now little interest, but 
 the great gravelly square, rmsnaxa&A Jardin du Palais Royal, 
 surrounded by gay arcades of shops, and planted with lime- 
 trees, is still a popular resort, though the opening of the 
 Tuileries gardens under Louis XVI. deprived it of its glory, 
 which reached a climax under Louis XIII. , when it became 
 the resort of all the rich citizens. 
 
 ' On vQit li, ^tald dans les habits, tout ce que le luxe peut inventer 
 de plus tendre et de plus touchant. Les dames, avec les modes toujours 
 nouvelles, avec leurs ajustements, leurs rubans, leurs pierreries et les 
 
 ' TrogDon, Vie de Marie Amilie, 
 
PALAIS ROYAL 52: 
 
 agr^ables mani^res de s'habiller, etalent dans les ^toffes d'or et d'argent 
 les applications de leur magnificence. Les hommes, de leur c6t^, 
 aussi vains que les femmes, avec leurs plumes et leurs perruques blondes, 
 y vont chercher k plaire et a prendre les coeurs. . . . Dans ce lieu si 
 agreable, on raille, on parle d'amour, de nouvelles, d'afiFaires et de 
 guerre. On d&ide, on critique, on dispute, on se trompe les uns les 
 autres, et avec cela tout le monde se divertit. ' — Lettres d!un Sidlien, 
 1692. 
 
 The surrounding buildings, by Pierre Louis (1735-1807), 
 reproduce in effect the Procuratie Nuove of the Piazza 
 S. Marco at Venice. 
 
 ' Representez-vous un magnifique chiteau carr^ dont le rez-de- 
 chauss^e est compost d'arcades ; et sous ces arcades, des magasins dans 
 lesquels brillent les tr&ors de I'lnde et de l!Ain&ique, or, argent, 
 diamants, etc. , les produits des plus exquis qu'engendre I'industrie pour 
 satisfaire et charmer nos sens : tout cela dispose de la maniere la plus 
 pittoresque et illuming de feux magiques qui ^blouissent I'oeil du 
 spectateur ! Imaginez-vous ces galeries pleines d'une foule qui s'y 
 promene pour voir et surtout pour se faire voir ! II y a li des caf^s 
 splendides tr^s-frequent&, ou on lit des journaux, ou I'on cause, discute, 
 etc. . . . J'en eus comme un vertige ; nous passames dans le jardin 
 du palais : ici r^gnaient le calme et I'obscurite. Le jour incertain qui 
 venait des arcades, en tombant sur ces vertes allees, ^tait absorbe par 
 I'epaisseur et par la mobilite de leur feuillage. On entendait de loin 
 les sons languissants d'une niusique enchanteresse. II me semblait que 
 j'etais transport^ dans Tile de Calypso ou dans le chateau d'Armide.' — 
 Karamsine, 179°. 
 
 ' La promenade de votre maussade Palais-Royal, oil tous vos 
 arbres sont estropi^s en tete de choux, et ou I'on ^touffe, quoiqu'on ait 
 pris tant de precaution en ^laguant, coupant, brisant, gatant tout pour 
 vous donner un peu d'air et de \esfa,z^.^ —Diderot, 'Lettres h. Mile 
 Volland: 
 
 ' Depuis des heures entieres, la population laborieuse des faubourgs 
 est livree au sommeil ; les rues plus centrales sont silencieuses et 
 abandonn^es i la seule clart^ des r^verberes ; vous croiriez la ville 
 compUtement ensevelie dans le repos ; mais, en approchant du Palais- 
 Royal, vos yeux et vos oreilles s'^tonnent, vos sens, dej^ engourdis, se 
 reveillent, et, arrive dans I'enceinte, vous la trouvez encore pleine de 
 vie et resplendissante de lumifere ; c'est le coeur qui reste chaud long- 
 
522 PARIS 
 
 temps apris que les extremites sont devenusfroides.' — Paris, ou le livre 
 des cent-et-un. ' 
 
 It was in the garden of the Palais Royal that (July 13, 
 1789) Camille Desmoulins, mounting upon a table, called 
 the crowd to arms, and bade them assume a green cockade 
 supplied by the leaves from the trees — in sign of hope. 
 
 The Palais Royal has always been celebrated for its 
 restaurants and gaming-tables. 
 
 ' Si I'Espagne a ses combats de taureaux, si Rome a eu des gladia- 
 teurs, Paris s'enorgueillit de son Palais-Royal, dont les agajantes 
 roulettes donnent le plaisir de voir couler le sang k flots, sans que les 
 pieds du parterre risquent d'y glisser. Essayez 'de jeter un regard furtif 
 sur cette ar^ne, entrez. . . . Quelle nudite ! Les murs, couverts d'un 
 papier gras k I'hauteur de I'homme, n'offrent pas une seule image qui 
 puisse rafralchir I'ame. II ne s'y trouve meme pas un clou pour faciliter 
 le suicide. Le parquet est use, mal propre. Une table oblongue 
 occupe le centre de la salle. La siraplicite des chaises de paUle pressees 
 autour de ce tapis use par I'or annonce une curieuse indiffi^rence du 
 luxe chez les hommes qui viennent perir ]k pouir la fortune et pour le 
 luxe.' — Balzac, ' La J>eau de chagrin.' 
 
 Richelieu spent 200,000 crowns upon producing his own 
 play of Mirame in the theatre of the Palais Royal, and 
 was furious at its being unappreciated. 
 
 ' Sur ce theitre, en 1636, parut la tragedie du Cid, qui, en 1639, 
 fut suivi des Horaces et de Cinna. Ainsi ce theatre, favoris^ par un puis- 
 sant protecteur, fut presqu'en meme temps le berceau et le char triomphal 
 de la tragedie.' — Dulaure. 
 
 The site which was bought by Cardinal Richelieu for 
 the Palais Royal was previously occupied by the Hotel de 
 Mercceur, and by the famous Hotel de Rambouillet (for- 
 merly Hotel Pisani), where, in the midst of the reign of 
 Louis XIV., Catherine de Vivonne, Marquise de Ram- 
 bouillet, created the famous literary society— the bel- esprit 
 coteries — which flourished from 1620 to 1630. 
 
H6TEL DE RAMBOUILLET 523 
 
 ' Une society d'^lite s'eleva avec le dix-septi^me siecle, au sdn dela 
 capitale ; elle unit les deux sexes par de nouveaux liens, par de nouvelles 
 affections, mela les hommes distingu^s de la cour et de la ville, les 
 gens du monde poll et les gens de lettres ; crea les moeurs delicates et 
 nobles, au milieu de la plus d^goutante dissolution ; rtforina et enrichit 
 la langue, pr^para I'essor d'une nouvelle litt^rature, ^leva les esprits au 
 sentiment et au besoin de jouissances ignorees du •^vX^she..' — Roederer. 
 
 ' All who frequented the H&tel de Rambouillet soon adopted 
 nobler manners and purer language, devoid of provincialism. The 
 women in particular, to whom more leisure and a more delicate 
 organisation give a readier and finer social tact, were the first to profit 
 by the advantage which was offered them by this constant community 
 of cultivated minds and association of persons unceasingly occupied in 
 emulating what was most agreeable and fitted to please in each. Con- 
 sequently those who formed part of these assemblies speedily became 
 easily distinguishable from those who were not admitted to them. To 
 show the esteem in which they were held, they were named the I'r^- 
 cieuses, the Illustrious : which was always given and received as an 
 honourable distinction during the long space of time that the Hotel de 
 Rambouillet retained its influence.' — Walckenaer. 
 
 Here that ' art of society,' for which France (and Paris 
 especially) has since become so celebrated, was first cultivated. 
 
 ' Ce fut li enfin que naquit reellement la conversation : cet art 
 charmant dont les regies ne peuvent se dire, qui s'apprend i la fois par 
 la tradition et par un sentiment Inn^ de I'exquis et de I'agr^able ; oil la 
 bienveillance, la simplicite, la politesse nuancee, I'etiquette meme et la 
 science des usages, la vari^t6 de tons et de sujets, le choc des idees 
 diff&entes, les recits piquants et animes, une certaine fagon de dire et 
 de confer, les bons mots qui se rep^tent, la finesse, la grace, la malice, 
 I'abandon, I'imprevu se trouvent sans cesse meles et forment un des 
 plaisirs les plus vifs que les esprits delicats puissent gofiter. ' — M. de 
 Noailles. ' 
 
 ' Le nombre des habitufe de cet h6tel fut d'abord restreint ; ils 
 ^taient regus, tantdt dans un des cabinets, tantot dans la chaoibre a 
 coucher, et Ton deployait, autour du cercle forme au centre de la pi^ce, 
 deux ou trois para vents qui pr^servaient des courants d'air les personnes 
 assises, car on ne faisait jamais de feu dans les cheminees, meme en 
 
 ■^ Hist, de Mme de Maintenon et des ^ri-ncipajix cjienements du regnc de 
 Louis XIV., par le Due de Noailles, 
 
524 
 
 PARIS 
 
 plein hiver, Mme de Ramboulllet ne pouvant supporter la chaleur d'un 
 foyer allum^. Au surplus, les tapisseries qui couvraient le plancher et 
 qui garnissaient les murailles erapechaient de sentir le froid du dehors. 
 II y avail une dizaine de sieges dans chaque cabinet, et dix-huit dans la 
 chambre a coucher. Ces sifeges etaient, suivant la definition du Dic- 
 tionnaire de Furetiere, " des fauteuils qui ont un dossier et des bras, 
 des chaises qui n'ont qu'un dossier, des placet et des tabourets qui n'ont 
 ni I'un ni I'autre." La chambre k coucher n'admettait pas encore, 
 comme la mode le permit plus tard, les visiteurs intimes dans la ruelle, 
 espace r&erv6 des deux c6t& du lit et qui se trouvait sdpare de la 
 chambre par une hiHa^triA^.' — Paul Lacroix. 
 
 The taste of the time as to building as well as livings 
 was to a great extent guided by Mme de Rambouillet. 
 
 ' C'est d'elle qu'on a appris a mettre les escaliers ^ cost^, pour avoir 
 une grande suite de chambres ; a exhausser les planchers et i faire des 
 portes et des fenestres hautes et larges et vis-a-vis les unes des autres. 
 Et cela est si vray que la reine-mfere, quand elle fit bastir le Luxem- 
 bourg, ordonna aux architectes d'aller voir I'hostel de Rambouillet, et 
 ce soing ne leur fut pas inutile, C'est la premiere qui s'est avis^e de faire 
 peindre une chambre d'autre couleur que de roiige ou de tann6.' — Talle- 
 mant des Riaux, 
 
 The personal charm of Mme de Rambouillet is recorded 
 by her contemporaries. 
 
 ' Elle etoit bienveillante et accueillante, et elle avoit I'esprit droit et 
 juste : c'est elle qui a corrige les mechanics coutumes qu'il y avoit avant 
 elle. Elle a enseigne la politesse ^ tous ceux de son temps, qui I'ont 
 frequent^e. Elle etoit aussi bonne amie, et elle obligeoit tout lemonde.' 
 Segrais, 
 
 In her old age, Mme de Rambouillet was partially con- 
 fined to her bed, but established in her bedchamber a great 
 alcove, to which she admitted a few of the friends who came 
 to see her. This was the origin of the alcoves, which became, 
 both in Paris and the provinces, the intimate centres of 
 familiar conversation. 
 
 ' L'hotel de Rambouillet conservait encore son ancienne reputation, 
 quoiqu'il eilt bien change de physionomie. Mme de Monlausier et 
 
THtlTRE FRANqAIS 525 
 
 son niari n'y paraissaient que de temps i I'autre ; on n'y voyait que fort 
 rarement les grandes dames et les femmes d'esprit qui y avaient tant 
 brill6s ; la duchesse de Longueville et safille, Mme de Nemours, Mme 
 de Sabl6 et Mile de Scud^ry. Le due de la Rochefoucauld n'y venait 
 plus qu'en passant : il y retrouvait ses vieux amis. Gombauld, Chapelain, 
 Mteage, Courart, Lamothe de Vayer, Habert de Montmor, Balzac, qui 
 mourut en 1654, et Racan, avaient abandonn^ tout \ fait le theatre 
 primitif de leur succ^s ; Corneille et Georges de Scud^ry, qui habitaient 
 la province, y reparaissaient un moment quelquefois. Manage y avait 
 amen^ son el^ve, la spirituelle marquise de "Sevign6, dont I'entr^e k 
 I'hotel de Rambouillet fut un triomphe ; mais ce n'etait plus alors 
 I'hdtel de Rambouillet d'autrefois : I'air et le ton avaient chang^ ; la 
 pruderie, une pruderie seche et glaciale, avaient envahi ce sanctuaire de 
 la bonne compagnie, comme pour protester contre les Ug^retes et les 
 libertds de la jeune cour. C'etait cependant le plus beau temps du 
 r^gne des precieuses. ' — Paul Lacroix. 
 
 Adjoining the Place du Palais Royal is the small Place 
 du Theatre Fran^ais, containing that fa:mous Theatre, built 
 1782, but much altered since. In its vestibule is a statue 
 of Talma, by David d' Angers. 
 
528 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Boulogne, Bois de, 470 
 
 Bourse, la, 504 
 
 British Embassy, 478 
 
 Butte Chaumont, 498 
 Montmartre, 490 
 Mortemart, 472 
 S. Roch, 514 
 
 Cabaret du Roi Clevis, 357 
 CaK Parisien, 499 
 Procope, 392 
 Riche, 485 
 Carrefour de la Croix Rouge, 432 
 Gaillon, 485 
 Longchamp, 473 
 Carres d'Atalante, 27 
 Carrousel, Place du, 42 
 Caserne de la Cit^, 285 
 
 des Pompiers, 346 
 Catacombs, 333 
 Cathedral of Notre Dame, 294 
 Ceinture S. Eloi, 285 
 Chambre des D^put^s, 443 
 Chambre des Martyrs, 434 
 Champ de Mai, 443 
 
 de Mars, 443 
 Champs Elys^es, 457 
 Chapelle Expiatoire, 478 
 
 Sainte, 277 
 
 S. Eloy, 234 
 
 S. Ferdinand, 466 
 
 S. Joseph, 12S 
 
 S. Martin le Vieux, 397 
 
 S. Michel, ii5 
 
 S. Yves, 343 
 Chateau de Bagatelle, 473 
 
 d'Eau, 503 
 
 des Fleurs, 465 
 
 de la Muette, 470 
 
 Madrid, 474 
 
 de Neuilly, 469 
 
 Rouge, 491 
 ChS,telet, le Grand, 232 
 
 le Petit, 341 
 Chaumiere, la Grande, 334 
 Chauss^e d'Antin, 483 
 Chevaux de Marly, 457 
 Church. See Eglise. 
 Cimetiere — 
 
 des Innocents, 116 
 S. Jean, 116 
 
 Cimetito — 
 
 S, Joseph, 493 
 de la Madeleine, 478 
 S. Marguerite, 249 
 S. Midard, 323 
 Montmartre, 488 
 Montpamasse, 334 
 P^re Lachaise, 243 
 de Picpus, 253 
 de Vaugirard, 418 
 . Vert, 516 
 Cit^, island of La, 251; 
 Cloitre des BiUettes, 146 
 
 S. Behoit, 366 
 
 Notre Dame, 314 
 
 S. S^verin, 381 
 Cluny, H6tel,de, 371 
 CoUAged' Arras, 348 
 
 d'Autun, 385 
 
 Ave Maria, 351 
 
 de Bayeux, 371 
 
 S. Barbe, 364 
 
 de Beauvais, 348 
 
 de Boissi, 385 
 
 de Boncourt, 351 
 
 des Bons Enfants, 347 
 
 de Bourgogne, 392 
 
 de Cambrai, 366 
 
 de Cardinal Lemoine, 346 
 
 de Chanac, 343 
 
 des Cholets, 364 
 
 de Clermont, 365 
 
 de Cluny, 370 
 
 de Comouailles, 343 
 
 des Ecossais, 357 
 
 S. Etienne des Gr^s, 365 
 
 de Fortet, 364 
 
 de France, 366 
 
 des Grassins, 351 
 
 de Huban, 351 
 
 dejiistice, 371 
 
 des Lombards, 349 
 
 Louis le Grand, 365 
 
 de MaJtre Gervais, 380 
 
 de la Marche, 351 
 
 de Mans, 365 
 
 de Marmoutier, 365 
 
 de la Merci, 350 
 
 S. Michel, 343 
 
 de Mignon, 386 
 
 de Montaigu, 363 
 
 de Nafbonne, 371 
 
 de Navarre, 351 
 
 de Plessis, 366 
 
INDEX 
 
 529 
 
 College de Presles, 349 
 
 de Reims, 364 
 
 SS. C6me et Damien, 371 
 
 de Secy, 371 
 
 Sorbonne, 367 
 
 de Toumai, 351 
 
 de Tours, 385 
 
 de Tr^quier, 366 
 
 du Tr^sorier, 370 
 Colonnade du Louvre, 41 
 Colonne de la Halle de Bl^, 114 
 
 de I'Hdtel de Soissons, 114 
 dejuillet, 188, 190 
 de VendOme, 447 
 Com^die Franpaise. 128 
 Commanderie S. Jean de Latran, 
 
 350 
 Conciergerie, La, 273 
 Concorde, Place de la, 450 
 Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 
 136 
 de Musique, 493 
 Cour de Commerce; 388 
 des Fermes, 512 
 de Mai, 268, 272 
 de Miracles, 496 
 du Mflrier, 396 
 de Rohan, 388 
 Couvent (Convent) — 
 des Augustines, 495 
 des Augustins d^chaussfis, 506 
 de I'Ave Maria, 200 
 des B^n6dictins Anglais, 336 
 des Bernardins, 346 
 des Capucines, 448 
 des Capucins, 446 
 
 du Faubourg S. 
 Jacques, 336 
 des Carmelites, 328 
 des Cannes, 35r 
 des Cannes (of the Rue de 
 
 Vaugirard), 415 
 des Cilestins, 201 
 du Chardonnet, 346 
 des Chartreux, 331 
 des Cordeliers, 388 
 des Feuillants, 27, 446 
 des Feuillantines, 336 
 Filles Dieu, 496 
 des Jacobins, 362 
 Les Mathurins, 379 
 Montmartre, 492 
 Notre Dame de Pent^mont, 
 437 
 
 Couvent (Convent) — 
 
 des Petits Augustins 395 
 
 des Petits P6res, 506 
 
 Picpus, 252 
 
 Port Royal, 331 
 
 S. Jean de Dieu, 397 
 
 du Sacr^ Cosur, 253 
 
 des Ursulines, 336 
 
 Croix Catelan, 474 
 
 du Trahoir, in. 
 
 Cuisines de S. Louis, 269 
 
 " D. 
 
 Domus Ma,rmosetorum, 288 
 Duval, Restaurants, 13 
 
 E. 
 
 Ecole des Arts et Manufactures, 159 
 des Beaux Arts, 395 
 de Dessin, 390 
 de Droit. 349 
 de M^decine, 390 
 Militaire, 443 
 Polytechnique, 351 
 Eglise (Church) — 
 Sacr6 Cceur, 491 
 S. Agnan. 291 
 S. Andre des Arts, 385 
 Assomption, 449 
 S. Augustin, 476 
 S. Bartheiemy, 285 
 S. Benott, 366 
 des Billettes, 146 
 S. Catherine, 284 
 
 du Val des Eco- 
 liers, 176 
 S. Clotilde, 437 
 des Cordeliers, 387 
 S. Denis de la Chartre, 284 
 du Sacrement, 177 
 S. Elisabeth, 158 
 S. Eloi, 285 
 
 S. Etienne du Mont, 352 
 des Gres, 364 
 S. Eustache, 120 
 S. Franfois Xavier, 434 
 S. Genevifeve, 339 
 
 des Ardents, 294 
 S. Gfermain I'Auxerrois, 99 
 des Pr^s, 423 
 le Vieux, 288 
 
 M M 
 
S30 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Eglise (Church)— 
 
 Elys^e, Palais de 1', 477 
 
 SS. Gervais et Protais, 221 
 
 Embassy, British, 478 
 
 S. Hilaire, 350 
 
 
 a Jacques du Haul Pas, 337 
 
 
 de la Bacherie, 231 
 
 F. 
 
 S. Jean Baptiste, 501 
 
 
 en Grfeve, 225 
 
 Faubourg, S. Antoine, 238 
 
 le Rond, 314 
 
 S. Germain, 393 
 
 SS.Jean et Franpois, 14S 
 
 S. Honors, 476 
 
 ,S. lulien le Pauvre, 341 
 
 S. Marcel, 318 
 
 S. Landry, 290 
 
 Fontaine (Fountain)— 
 
 S. Laurent, 498 
 
 de la Croix du Trahoir, in 
 
 SS. Leu et Gilles, 131 
 
 Gaillon, 484 
 
 S. Louis des Invalides, 439 
 
 de Grenelle, 435 
 
 en risle, 315 
 
 des Innocents, 119 
 
 S. Luc, 289 
 
 Louvois, 515 
 
 La Madeleine, 480 
 
 S. Michel, 382 
 
 on the Island, 
 
 de Medicis, 411 
 
 286 
 
 Molifere, 516 
 
 S. Magloire, 132 
 
 fie la Samaritaine, 258 
 
 S. Marcel, 326 
 
 S. Sulpice, 422 
 
 S. Marguerite, 249 
 
 de la Victoire, 232 
 
 S. Marie I'Egyptienne, 125 
 
 For I'Evgque, 234 
 
 S. Marine, 291 
 
 
 S. M^dard, 322 
 
 
 S. Merri, 133 
 
 G. 
 
 S. Nicolas des Champs, 135 
 
 
 du Chardonnet, 344 
 
 Galerie Marchande, 271 
 
 Notre Dame, 294 
 
 Mazarine, 507 
 
 des Anges, 193 
 
 Garde-Meuble, 443 
 
 des Blancs Man- 
 
 Grand Jeusneur, Le, 293 
 
 teaux, 487 
 
 Grande Orberie, 287 
 
 des Carmflites, 
 
 Grange Bateli^re, 494 
 
 328 
 
 S. Eloy, 196 
 
 de Lorette, 486 
 
 GrenouiUiire, La, 443 
 
 des Victoires, 509 
 
 GuichetE des S. Pires, 40 
 
 L'Oratoire, 100 
 
 
 SS. Paul et Louis, zi6 
 
 
 S. Paul des Champs, 197 
 
 H. 
 
 S. Philippe du Roule, 477 
 
 
 S. Pierre aux Bosufs, 291 
 
 Halle de Beauce, 287 
 
 de Montmartre, 491 
 
 au BM, 113 
 
 S. Roch, 106 
 
 aux Vins, 318 
 
 S. SSverin, 380 
 
 Halles Centrales, 116 
 
 S. Sulpice, 420 
 
 Hfipital (Hospital)— 
 
 S. Symphorien, 284 
 
 Bic6tre, 332 
 
 S. Thomas Aquinas, 436 
 
 La Charity, 397 
 
 du Louvre, 43 
 
 des Enfants Trouv^s, 293 
 
 La Trinity, 483 
 
 de I'Hdtel Dieu, 288, 292 
 
 Val de Grace, 327 - 
 
 Lariboisifere, 494 
 
 Visitation, 193 
 
 des Mtoages, 432 
 
 S. Vincent de Paul, 492 ,. 
 
 de la Piti^, 319 
 
 Egouts, I^s, 234 
 
 des Quinze-Vingts, 254 
 
 Elephant of the Bastille, 191 
 
 3. Antoine, 254 
 
INDEX 
 
 531 
 
 H6pital (Hospital)— 
 S. Louis, 502 
 de la SalpStri^re, 320 
 des Sourds-Muets, 337 
 Val de Grlce, 327 
 des V^ii^riens, 336 
 HStel Aguado,493 
 
 d'Aligr^, 436 
 
 d'Angouleme, i63 
 
 d'Aubray, 208 
 
 d'Aubriot, 217 
 
 d' Aumont, 41, 220 
 
 deBahaigue, 115 
 
 Barbeue, 163 
 
 de Mme du Barri, 126 
 
 de Beauce, 287 
 
 de Beauvais, 195 
 
 B4ranger, 437 
 
 de B^thizy, 112 
 
 de B^thune, 194 
 
 de Bezenval, 437 
 
 de Biron, 435 
 
 de Boisboudrand, 149 
 
 de Boissy, 193 
 
 de Bouchage, no 
 
 de BoufBers, 149 
 
 de Bouillon, 393 
 
 de Boulainvilliers, 483 
 
 de Bourbon, 99 
 
 de Bourgogne, 126 
 
 de Bretagne, 206 
 
 de Brissac, 415, 437 
 
 de Bullion, 109 
 
 de Canaleilles, 435 '• 
 
 Carnavalet, 172 
 
 de Chaions-Luxembourg, 221 
 
 Charost, 478 
 
 du Chatelet, 437 
 
 de Ch^tillon, 170, 434 
 
 du Chevalier du Guet, 234 
 
 Chivry, 505 
 
 de Choiseul, 495 
 
 de Clavigny, 290 
 
 de Cldrambault, 512 
 
 de Clisson, 141 
 
 de Cluny, 371 
 
 du Commandeurdejars, 513 
 
 de Cond6, 99, 509 
 
 Conti, 436 
 
 de la Cour des Comptes, 284 
 
 de CrSqui, 396 
 
 Crozat, 486 
 
 de Dangeau, 176, 184 
 
 Dieu, 292 
 
 H6tel du Due de Maine, 212 
 
 de la Duchesse d'Orl^ans, 436 
 
 db la Duchesse de Savoie, 419 
 
 d'Ecquevilly, 177 
 
 d'Emery, 509 
 
 dp r Empereur Joseph, 414 
 
 d'Epergnon, 109 
 
 de Fecamp, 385 
 
 des Fermes, 109, 513 
 
 de'Ferri^re, 109 
 
 Fieubet, 209 
 
 de Fonienay, 159 
 
 Forbin, 437 
 
 de la Force, 170 
 
 Fould, 478 
 
 Furtado, 478 
 
 de Graramont, 436 
 
 du Grand Prieur, 149 
 
 de Graville, 217 
 
 de Gaucher, 170 
 
 de Gu6m6n6e, 187 
 
 de Guise, 149 
 
 de Harcourt, 380 
 
 de Hennisdal, 415 
 
 d' Herbouville, 170 
 
 d'Hercule, 383 
 
 d'Herwert, rog 
 
 de HoUande, 161 
 
 de la Houze, 170 
 
 de rinfantado, 448 
 
 de rintendant Foucault, 513 
 
 des InvaUdes, 437 
 
 Janson, 437 
 
 de Jeanne d'Albret, 167 
 
 de Juign6, 393 
 
 Lambert, 315 
 
 de Laraoignon, 167 
 
 de Lauzun, 316 
 
 de Laval, 142, 143 
 
 de Lavalette, 209 
 
 de Lesdiguiferes, 209 
 
 des Lions du Roi, 207 
 
 de Longueville, 42 
 
 de Lyonne, 514 
 
 de Luynes, 435 
 
 de Marbosuf, 478 
 
 de Marion de Lorme, 183 
 
 de Matignon, 435 
 
 de Mayenne, 194 
 
 de Mazarin, 396 
 
 de Mesraes, 140 
 
 de la Mis^ricorde, 141 
 
 de Mme de La Fayette, 414 
 
 Monaco, 435 
 
532 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Hdtel de la Monnaie, 402 
 de Montpensier, no 
 des Mousquetaires Noirs, 
 
 2S4 
 de Nesle, 113, 397, 400 
 Nesinond, 318 
 Nicolai, 187 
 
 de Ninon de I'Enclos, 187 
 Nivernais, 414 
 d'OrWans, 115 
 d'Ormesson, 194 
 d'Orsay, 435 
 de Penthi^vre, 510 
 de P^rfgord, 436 
 Petit de Conti, 403 
 du Petit-Musc, 194 
 de Pimodan, 316 
 Pomp^ien, 460 
 Pontchartrain, 515 
 de Ponthieu, 112 
 du Porc-^pic, 217 
 des Postes, 510 
 Pourtalfes, 481, 485 
 du Pr6v6t de Paris, Z17 
 des Princes, 115 
 des Ranes, 397 
 de la Reine-Mfere,' 115 
 de Ren6 d'Argouges, 420 
 de Richelieu, 184, 1S6 
 de Roche-Guyon, 142 
 de Rohan, 142, 160 
 de Royaumont, 125 
 de S. Aignan, 139 
 de S. G^ran, 187 
 de S. Paul, 204 
 'de S. Pouange, 514 
 SaW, 159 
 de Savoisi, 170 
 Siguier, 512 
 de Senneterre, 509 
 de Sens, 213 
 de Soissons, 114, 51a 
 de Soubise, 143 ^ 
 de Sully, 194 
 de Tallard, 158 
 de Talleyrand, 448 
 de Torpane, 345 
 de Toulouse, 432, 510 
 de Tournelles, 179 
 de la Trfmouille, 115 
 Tubeuf, 505 
 de Turenne, 418 
 des Ursins, 289 
 Valentinois, 463 
 
 des Ventes Mobili^res, 493 
 
 de Vieuville, 207 
 
 de Ville, 225 
 
 de Villequier, 40 
 
 de Vitry, 178 
 
 de la Vrilliire, 448 
 
 I. 
 
 Imprimerie Nationale, 161 
 Institut de France, 397 
 Invalides, Hfitel des, 437 
 Isle de la Cit^, 255, 263 
 
 aux Javiaux, 255 
 
 de la Gourdaine, 255 
 
 S. Louis, 315 
 
 a,ux Treilles, 255, 262 
 
 Jardin d'Acclimatation, 475 
 des Plantes, 318 
 du Luxembourg, 411 
 du Palais Royal, 520 
 des Tuileries, 24 
 
 L. 
 
 Longchamp, 472 
 Louvre, the, 37-98 
 
 Colonnade du, 41 
 Escalier Daru, 82 
 Galerie d'Apollon, 51 
 Grande, 65 
 Mollien, 79 
 Guichets des S. Peres, 4< 
 Mus^e des Antiquit^s 
 Grecques, 83 
 Assyrien, 96 
 Campana, 83 
 Caze, La, 48 
 de Chalcographie.t 
 Charles X., 83 
 Cbinois, 86 
 des Desseins, 85 
 Egyptien, 84, 96 
 Ethnographique, I 
 Franyais, 77 
 Franyais Modern 
 81 
 
INDEX 
 
 533 
 
 Louvre — 
 
 Musfe de Gravure, 97 
 de Marine, 85 
 du Moyen Age, 84 
 dela Renaissance, 85 
 de Sculpture, 86 
 de Sculpture Egyp- 
 
 tienne, 96 
 de Sculpture Mo- 
 derns Franfaise, 
 
 97 
 
 de Sculpture du 
 Moyen Age, 90 
 
 des Souverains, 84 
 Pavilion Deron, 81, 86 
 de Flore, 40 
 des LesdiguiireSj 
 
 42 
 du Roi, 38, 49 
 Salle des AntiquitSs Grec- 
 
 ques, 83 
 des Antonins, 87 
 d'Apis, 96 
 des Auguier, 94 
 d'Auguste, 87 
 des Bronzes, 81, 86 
 des Cariatides, 89 
 CaT^e, 32 
 des Cent Suisses, 89 
 dc Chaudet, 98 
 de la Chemin^e de 
 
 Bruges, 95 
 de Coustou, 97 
 de Coysevox, 97 
 d'Eustache Lesueur,77 
 des Gardes, 89 
 du Gladiateur, 87 
 de Henri IL, 49 
 de Henri IV., 96 
 d'Hercule et Taijphe, 
 
 89 
 de Houdon, 98 
 de Jean Goujon, gi 
 de M^cfene, 86 
 de M^dge, 89 
 de Melpomene, 88 
 de Michel-Ange, 93 
 de la Paix, 86 
 de Pallas, 88 
 de Phidias, 87 
 de la Psyche, 89 
 de Puget, 97 
 de la Rotonde, 86 
 de Rude, 98 
 
 Louvre—' 
 
 Salle des Paisons, 86 
 des S(5ances, 48 
 des Sept Chemin6es, 49 
 de Septime S6v6re, 87 
 des Sept Metres, 61 
 des Vases Corinthiens, 
 
 83 
 de V^nus de Milo, 88 
 Luxembourg, Palais de, 403 
 Lyc& Henri IV., 358 
 
 Louis le Grand, 365 
 S. Louis, 370 
 
 M. 
 
 Madeleine, La, 480 
 Madrid, pb3.teau de, 474 
 Maison (House) — ■ 
 
 de I'Abbd de I'Epfe, 485 
 
 Blanche, 322 
 
 de Cagliostro, 510 
 
 de Calvin, 104 
 
 de Colbert, 510 
 
 de ia Croix rouge, 129 
 
 de Desmarteaux, 366 
 
 DorSe, 485 
 
 du Doyen, 99 
 
 d'Education Correctionelle, 243 
 
 d'Etienne Marcel, 104 
 
 de Franfois I., 460 
 
 de Franfois Rayner, 109 
 
 de Franklin, 463 
 
 de Jean Jacques Rousseau, 109 
 
 de Jules Janin, 463 
 
 de Lamartine, 463 
 
 de Lauzun, 463 
 
 de Lull!, 514 
 
 de Marat, 392 
 
 de Mme Lebrun, 510 
 
 de Mme Mohl, 433 
 
 Mohfere, 516 
 
 de M. d'Etoiles, 496 
 
 du Paradis, 287 
 
 aux Fillers, 226 
 
 de la Reine Blanche, 322 
 
 de Rigaud, 485 
 
 de Robespierre, 449 
 
 de Rollin, 495 
 
 de Rossini, 463 
 
 de Sophie Amauld, 113 
 
 M. Thiers, 488 
 
 de Voltaire, 460, 517 
 
;34 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Manufacture des Gobelins, 320 
 
 des Tabacs, 443 
 viarais, 162 
 
 klarch^ des Blanos Manteaux, 160 
 aux Carmes, 350 
 auK Fleurs, 481 
 aux Innocents, 117 
 Neuf, 288 
 
 aux Pouroeaux, 487 
 S. Germain, 422 
 kl^nilmontant, 248 
 vlicra Madiana, 285 
 vlinistire de Marine, 450 
 vlissions Etrang4re=, 433 
 vlonast^re (Monastery) — 
 des Carmelites, 330 
 des Carmes, 416 
 S. Eloi, 285 
 vlonceaux. Pare de, 475 
 vlons Cetardus, 325 
 
 Martyrum, 489 
 vlontfaucon, 499 
 VIont de Piet^, 487 
 Val^rien, 470 
 vlontmartre, 488 
 Vlontparnasse, Cimeti^re de, 334 
 Worgue, 313 
 Wuette, La, 463 
 MuE^e des Archives, 144 
 d'Artillerie, 442 
 Dupuytren, 388 
 Carnavalet, 176 
 de Cluny, 373 
 de Galliera, 463 
 Ethnographique, 460 
 of Hydraulic Machinery, 138 
 du Louvre, 47 
 
 desMonumertsFranfais, 395 
 des Moulages, 460 
 Sigillographique, 144 
 des Thermes, 379 
 des Voitures, 378 
 
 N. 
 
 S^apol^on, tombeau, 440 
 
 ^leuilly, 468 
 
 Mouvelles Athines, 487 
 
 Obelisk of Place de la Concorde, 
 456 
 
 Observatoire, 332 
 Od^on, 413 
 Opera, 482 
 Oratoire, The, no 
 
 Palais (Palace) — 
 
 of the Abbot of S. Germain des 
 
 Pr^s, 429 
 Archiepiscopal, 3r2, 437 
 des Beaux Arts, 395 
 Cardinal, 160 
 de la Cite, 264-272 
 du Corps L^gislatif, 443 
 de rElysde, 477 
 de r Industrie, 459 
 de rinstitut, 399 
 of Julian the Apostate, 265 
 de Justice, 270 
 de la Ldgion d'Honneur, 443 
 du Louvre, 37 
 du Luxembourg, 463 
 Royal, 517 
 des Thermes, 378 
 des Tournelles, r79 
 du Trocad&o, 460 
 des Tuileries, 18 
 Pantheon, 359 
 
 Pare des Buttes Chaumont, 498 
 Moni-^aux, 475 
 des Tournelles, 180 
 Parvis Notre Dame, 293 
 Passage du Caire, 496 
 
 Charlemagne, 217 
 Colbert, 516 
 des Panorames, 135 
 Passy, 463 
 Pavilion de Flore, 40 
 
 d'Hanovre, 483 
 de Lesdigui^res, 42 
 de Rohan, 42 
 Pays-Latin, 339 
 Pfere Lachaise, 243 
 Pharmacie G^n^rale, 221 
 Picpus, Cimitiere de, 253 
 Fillers aux Halles, 119 
 Place de la Bastille, 188 
 Baudoyer, 130 
 de Bellechasse, 437 
 de la Bourse, 504 
 du Carrousel, 42 
 du ChS.teau d'Eau, 503 
 
INDEX 
 
 535 
 
 Place du CMlelet, 232, 234 
 de la Concorde, 450 
 Dauphins, 262 
 de I'Ecole, 104 
 de Grfeve, 228 
 de l'H6tel de ViUe, 228 
 Lafayette, 494 
 Louis XV. 449 
 Louvois, 515 
 Maubert, 343 
 de U Nation, 250 
 Notre Dame, 313 
 de rOp6ra, 448 
 du Parvis Notre Dame, 293 
 du Palais Royal, 525 
 du Petit Pont, 341 
 de la R^publique, 503 
 Royale, 182, 186 
 S. Andri des Arts, 385 
 S, Georges, 4B8 
 S. Jacques, 338 
 S. Michel, 383 
 
 S. Sulpice, 422 
 
 du Temple, 157 
 
 du Trocadiro, 460 
 
 du Tr6ne, 250 
 
 Venddme, 446 
 
 des Victoires, 509 
 
 des Vosges, 179 
 Point du Jour, 465 
 Pont d'Arcole, 231 
 
 au Change, 233 
 
 de la Concorde, 443 
 
 de la Grfeve, 231 
 
 Neuf, 256 
 
 Notre Dame, 284 
 
 Petit, 284, 340 
 
 aux Pleurs, 256 
 
 Royal, 293 
 
 des S. Pferes, 393 
 
 de Solferino, 443 
 
 de la Tournelle, 316 
 Port Royal de Paris, 331 
 Porte dela Cit6, 284 
 
 de la Conference, 26 
 
 S. Denis, 495 
 
 S. Martin, 500 
 
 de la Muette, 470 
 
 de S. Paul, 196 
 Post Office, 510 
 Pr6 aux Clercs, 428, 437 
 Priory of S. Martin des Champs, 136 
 Prison de I'Abbaye, 4-'9 
 
 de la Conciergerie, 273 
 
 Prison de la Force, 170 
 
 de Glaucin, 284 
 
 des Jeunes detenus, 243 
 
 Mazas, 254 
 
 Nouveau BicStre, 241 
 
 La Roquette, 241 
 
 S. Firmin, 347 
 
 S. Lazare, 497 
 
 S. P^lagie, 319 
 Provence, La Petite, 26 
 Puits d"Amour, 132 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quai d'Anjou, 316 
 
 des Augustins, 383 
 de Bourbon, 310 
 des Ceiestins, 208 
 Conti. 400 
 Henri IV. , 210 
 de=I'Horloge, 266, 314 
 Malaquais, 393 
 de la M^gisserie, 234 
 des Miramionnes, 318 
 des Orffevres, 266 
 d'Orsay, 443 
 de Passy, 463 
 Voltaire, 393 
 
 Quart'er Latin, 339 
 
 de S. Paul, 196 
 
 Restaurants, 15 
 Rond Point, 460 
 Rue de I'Abbaye, 429 
 
 d'Aboukir, 496 
 , des Amandiers, 351 
 
 de I'Ancienne Com^die, 392 
 
 des Anglais, 343 
 
 d'Anjou S. Honors, 478 
 
 de I'Arbre Sec, iix 
 
 des Archives, 145 
 
 d'Argenteuil, 109 
 
 d'Arras, 348 
 
 de Babylone, 434 
 
 du Bac. 433 
 
 des Barr&, 2or, 221 
 
 de la Barillerie, 286 
 
 de Beautreillis, 206 
 
536 
 
 INDEX 
 
 :Rue des Bernardins, 343 
 Bertin-Poir^e. 234 
 de B^thizy, 112 
 Bichat, 502 
 de Bi&vre, 343 
 des BiUettes, 14S 
 Bonaparte. 394, 425 
 dei Bons Enfants, 347 
 du Bouloi. 512 
 des Bourdonnais, 115 
 de Bourgogne, 437 
 de Boutebrie, 380 
 de Braque, 141 
 de Bretagne, 158 
 de la Bflcherie, 341, 342 
 de la Calandre, 287 
 des Capucins, 336 
 du Cardinal Lemoine, 346 
 des Carmes, 350 
 Casimir Pfirier, 437 
 Cassette, 414 
 de Castiglione, 446 
 de la Cerisaie, 206, 207 
 Chabanais, 511 
 des Chanoinesses, 314 
 Chante-Raine, 494 
 des Chantres, 314 
 de Charenton, 253, 254 
 Charlemagne, 219 
 Charles Cinq, 208 
 de Chariot, 145 
 de la Charpenterie, nz 
 de Chlteaudun, 487 
 Chaume, 142 
 ChauSE^e d' An tin, 483 
 du Cherche-Midi, 432 
 du Chevet, 291 
 des Cholets, 364 
 de la Cit6, 284 
 Claude Bernard, 326 
 de Cl^ry, 510 
 de Clichy, 483 
 Cloltre Notre Dame, 314 
 du CIos-Georgeau, 517 
 Clovis, 357 
 Cocatrix, 292 
 de Colombier, 397 
 de la Corderie, 146 
 des Coutures S. Gervais, 159 
 Cujas, 364 
 
 Culture S. Catherine, 172, 176 
 du Dauphin, 445 
 Domat, 343 
 de la Draperie, 286 
 
 Rue Drouot, 493 
 
 DuphQt, 449 
 
 I'Ecole de M^decine, 387, 392 
 
 des Ecoles, 339, 366 
 
 de I'Echelle, ro9 
 
 des Enfants Rouges, 145 
 
 d'Enfer, 328 
 ■ d'Eufer (on the Island), 290 
 
 de l'Ep6e de Bois, 326 
 
 du Faubourg S. Antoine, 249, 
 250, 253 
 
 Faubourg S. Denis, 497 
 
 du Faubourg S. Honors, 476 
 S. Martin, 500 
 Montmartre, 494 
 Poissonnifere, 493 
 du Temple, 501 
 
 FSrpu, 4r4 
 
 de la Ferronnerie, 129 
 
 des'Feuillantinei, 336 
 
 de Figuier, 213 
 
 Fontaine, 488 
 
 Moliire, 517 
 
 de la Fontenelle, 492 
 
 des Fosses S. Bernard, 347 
 S. Victor, 347 
 
 du Fpuarre, 342 
 
 du Four, 432 
 
 des Francs Bourgeois, 166 
 
 de GaiUon, 514 
 
 Galande, 342 
 
 Garanciere, 419 
 
 Geoffroy d'AJsnier, 221 
 
 Geoffrey-Marie, 494 
 
 de Glatigny, 289 
 
 de Grammont, 486 
 
 du Grand Chantier, 145 
 
 Grsende Tiuanderie, 132 
 
 des Grands Augustins, 383 
 
 de la Grange Bateli^re, 495 
 
 de Gravilliers, 146 
 
 Gr^goire de Tours, 422 
 
 de Grenelle, 435, 437 
 
 Grenelle S. Honor^, 109 
 
 de Harlay, 262 
 
 de la Harpe,, 370, 383 
 
 Hautefeuille, 385 
 
 Hauteville, 493 
 
 du Haut Pav^, 343 
 
 Haxo, 501 
 
 de I'Hirondelle, 383 
 
 de VHomme arm^, 145 
 
 Jacob, 397 
 
 Jardins S. Paul, 219 
 
INDEX 
 
 S37 
 
 Rue du Jardinet, 387 
 
 de Jean Jacques Rousseau, 109 
 du Jour, 125 
 de touy, 220 
 
 de la Juiverie, 284, 286, 287 
 de la Jussienne, 125 
 Laffilte, 486 
 Lamarck, 490 
 de la Lanterne, 284, e88 
 Laplace, 351 
 Larrey, 391 
 de Licorne, 286 
 des Lions, 206 
 Lobinot, 422 
 Louis le Grand, 483 
 du Louvre, 99 
 de Luxembourg, 449 
 des Mapons, 370 
 du Mail, 510 
 
 du March^ Palu, 284, 287 
 des Marmousets, 288 
 d!e Martroy, 224 
 Mathurin, 380 
 Maubu^e, 132, 134 
 des Mauvais Garpons, 130 
 Maxarin, 402 
 de la Michodiire, 485 
 Mignon, 387 
 des Minimes, 178 
 Monge, 339 
 
 Monsieur le Prince, 413 
 de la Montague, 351 
 Montmartre, 125, 126, 493 
 Montmorency, 135 
 Mont Thabor, 446 
 Mouffetard, 325 
 des Moulins, 485, 514 
 Neuve des Petits Champs, 514 
 S. Etienne, 493 
 S. Roch, 107 
 de Nevers, 402 
 Nicole, 331 
 
 des Nonnains d'Hyeres, 220 
 de Normandie, 178 
 Notre Dame de Lorette, 486 
 de rOratoire, no 
 d'Orl^ans, iii 
 de la Paix, 44S 
 de Paradis, 142 
 du Pare Royal, 180, 187 
 de la Parcheminerie, 382 
 Pas de Mule, 187 
 Pav6e, 170 
 le Peletier, 493 
 
 Rue de la Pelleterie, 285 
 du Petit Bourbon, 414 
 Petite Truanderie, 132 
 de Picpus, 251, 252 
 de la Planchette, 253 
 Platri&re, 109 
 de Poissy, 346 
 de Ponthieu, 112 
 Port S. Landry, 290 
 Pot de Fer, 394 
 des Poulies, 112 
 Pourtalfis, 495 
 des Prouvaires, 115 
 des Pyramides, 109 
 Quincarapoix, 133 
 de Rennes, 418 
 de Richelieu, 505 
 de Rivoli, 445 
 du Roi de Sicile, 177 
 des Rosiers, 492 
 Royale, 481 
 
 S. Andr^ des Arts, 385 
 S. Anne, 511 
 S. Antoine, r92 
 S. Antonin, 192 
 S. Avoye, 139 
 S. Claude, 179 
 ■ S. Dominique, 436 
 S. Denis, 130 
 
 k Montmartre, 491 
 S. Etienne des Grfes, 364 
 S. Faron, 130 
 S. Florentin, 448 
 S. Germain I'Auxerrbis, 234 
 S. Hilaire, 350 
 S. Hippolyte, 322 
 S. Honor6, 105, 449 
 S. Jacques, 326, 336, 337, 338 
 S. Jean de Beauvais, 348 
 S. "Landry, 294 
 S. Louis aux Marais, 177 
 S. Martin, 133 
 de S. Paul, 196 
 des SS. P6res, 393 
 S. Pierre aux Boeufs, 291 
 S. Roch, 445 
 de Sartine, 109 
 Sauyali 113 
 Scipion, 320 
 du Sentier, 496 
 Sefpente, 385 
 de S^vign^, 172 
 de Sevres, 43a 
 de Sommerard, 371 
 
 N N 
 
538 
 
 Rue de la Sorbonne, 371 
 Soufflot, 362 
 de Sully, 211 
 du Temple, 138, 146 
 TMrfese, Si6 
 de la Tixeranderie, 130 
 de laTonndlerie, 129 
 des Tournelles, 187 
 de Tournon, 413 
 de Tracy, 133 
 du Trahoir, iii 
 Traversifere, 517 
 Tronchet, 481 
 de Turbigo, 126 
 de Turenne, 177 
 de I'Universit^, 436 
 des Ursins, 289, 314 
 des Ursulines, 336 
 Val de Gr^ce, 331 
 de Valols, 518 
 Vanneau, 435 
 de Varennes, 435 
 de Vaugirard, 416, 419 
 de Vend6me, 146 
 de Venise, 134 
 de la Vieille Draperie, 286 
 Vieille du Temple, 158 
 des Vieilles PoulieS, 166 
 des Vieux Augustins, 126 
 Visconti, 397, 420 
 Vivienne, 504 
 des Vosges, 187 
 de la Vrilliire, 310 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Statue of Louis XIII., 186 
 
 Louis XIV. , 446, 509 
 
 Montyon, 502 
 
 Napoleon I. , 447 
 
 Ney, 333 
 
 Pascal, 231 
 
 the Republic, 303 
 
 Voltaire, 346, 397 
 
 T. 
 
 Tavern, Pomthe de Pin, 287 
 Temple, the, 146 
 Terrasse des FeuillantSj 26 
 Theatre de Cluny, 379 
 FraH9ais, 525 
 desFoliesDramatiques, 501 
 de I'Hfitel de Bourgogne, 
 
 126 
 del'Od&n, 413 
 du Palais Royal, 522 
 Illustre, 200 
 Tombeau Napolton, 440 
 Tour d' Argent, 268 
 de C&ar, 267 
 de I'Horloge, 267 
 de Montgommery, 267 
 de Nesle_, 400 
 de S. Ge'nevifeve, 359 
 de S. Jacques, 231 
 du Temple, 148 
 Tournelles, Palais des, 179 
 Trocad6ro, Le, 460 
 Tuileries, the, 18 
 
 Sainte Chapelle, 277 
 
 Salle des Pas Perdus, 270 
 
 S^minaire S. Firmin, 347 
 
 S. Magloire, 337 
 
 S^rail des Mignons, 197 
 
 Sorbonne, 367 
 
 Square du Carrousel, 42 
 du Louvre, 42 
 
 Statue of Bernard Palissy, 428 
 Charles X., 186 
 Henri IV., 259-261 
 Jeanne Dare, 109 
 
 U. 
 
 University, 339 
 
 Catholique de Paris, 41S 
 
 V. 
 
 Val de Grace, 326 
 Vauvert, 328 
 Villette, La, 498 
 
 W. 
 Walls of Philippe Augusts, 7, 109, 
 339, 347 
 
 Spotiiswoode &» Co. Printers, New-street Square, London 
 
WORKS BY AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE. 
 
 SKETCHES IN. HOLLAND AND SCANDINAVIA. 
 
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 books the Christian world just now greatljr needs, as_ showing how the spiritual life 
 was maintained amid the shaking of religious " opinions " ; how the life of the soul 
 deepened as the thoughts of the mind broadened ; and how, in their union, the two 
 formed a volume of larger and more thoroughly vitalised Christian idea than the 
 English people had witnessed for many days.'— Glasgovl^ Herald. 
 
 FLORENCE. Second Edit. I VENICE. Fcp. 8vo. cloth 
 Fcp. 8vo. cloth limp, 2s, 6d. \ limp, 2s. 6d. 
 
 ' The plan of these little volumes is excellent Anything more perfectly 
 
 fulfilling the idea of a guide-book we have never seen.'— Scottish Review. 
 
 London: SMITH, ELDER, & CO., 15 Waterloo Place.