;.^ft» ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass ^,.--^3ii;^-■ —--- -- , ^ From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco, 1912. CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 924 086 7 4 437 Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924086714437 CAEOLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Cinnamon Buns French Brioche Salad Sticks Swedish Coffee Braid Parker House Rolls Wheat Bread Various Breads Made upon One Foundation Formula FronHspiece CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK FOUNDATION PRINCIPLES OP GOOD COOKERY. WITH RECIPES BY CAROLINE B. KING DOUESTIC SCIENCE LECTTTREB FOB THE UNIVERSITY EXTENSION SOCIETY OF PHILADELPHIA ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BOSTON LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 1918 iiopy right, 1918, By Little, Bbown, and Company. All rights reserved Published April, 1918 Set up and dectrotyped by J. S. v^usli'mg Co., Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. Pressworic by S. J. ParkhiU & Co., Boston, Mass., U.S.A. INTRODUCTORY NOTE Cookery is just as much a science as arithmetic or geometry, and is based on foundations and con- trolled by principles quite as well defined, quite as fixed as those of any other science. There are certain basic rules which underUe the preparation of our foods just as there are basic rules forming the groundwork of all the sciences and arts, and when these are mastered, any dish or combination of food materials may be undertaken fearlessly and confidently. When the inexperienced housewife opens a book on the subject of cookery, she is often appalled at the number of recipes which meet her gaze. Twenty- five to fifty pages are devoted to the making of bread, rolls, and other yeast-leavened products, and as many more to cake; pastry occupies another whole section; meats fill chapters; vegetables require interminable explanations, and so on through- out the whole gamut of food suppUes, until in very weariness of spirit and confusion of her mental facul- ties she closes the book and regales her family with those trite but quickly prepared dishes whose prep- INTRODUCTORY NOTE aration require little thought, effort, or attention to detail. Or, perhaps she has attended a school which includes domestic science in its curriculum, and has learned something of the chemical constituents of foods, the proteins, carbohydrates, and fats. She has hazy memories of lessons on balanced rations and calories, and so attempts to put to use what portion of this scientific knowledge she can recall. But the result is equally futile. With constantly advancing prices and incomes remaining stationary, it is a difficult matter to select foods which contain just the exact proportions of starches, sugar, fat, and protein required to form a perfectly balanced menu. She therefore abandons the search, and purchases those food products which will supply the greatest amount of nutriment at the smallest possible outlay, and her menus begin to show a marked resemblance to each other. The family continues to eat the same boiled or baked or fried meats — the ones that are the easiest to prepare, the same cakes and puddings, salads and vegetables, until one meal so nearly resembles another that it is difficult to deter- mine whether one is eating to-day's or last week's dinner. The housewife would Uke very much to know how to make some of the good things enimierated in her cookery bodks, how to use some scientific knowledge regarding the selection and preparation of food prod- vi INTRODUCTORY NOTE ucts, but the complexity of the subject as it is presented to her, and a multiphcity of other duties awaiting her attention, discourage any attempt on her part to begin the study of the subject. But if one will only go about the matter in the proper way, it is never too late to learn to cook. No one can hope to master all of the recipes in the thou- sand or more cookery books which are offered for sale, if one attempts to learn each one of them separately and distinctly, but if the foundation princi- ples which govern all cookery are studied and thor- oughly comprehended, any dish that one desires to make will become a matter quite easy to accomplish. Cookery, exactly like geography or arithmetic or rhetoric, may be classified into a few general divisions. Each of these divisions may again be divided into subclasses, and for each of these subclasses there is a foundation recipe, or a general principle upon which every dish which belongs in that particular group is built. Let us take the question of breads, for instance. The French rusks and buns and coffee cakes that look so tempting in the windows of the fancy bakery, with their shining brown surfaces half concealed by a clear sugar icing, or a sprinkUng of nuts or fruit, are all formed upon the foundation recipe which any good housewife who can produce a loaf of sweet Ught bread has iu her possession. The delicate souffle, so airy and fluffy that it hterally melts in your mouth, is but another variation of the white sauce with vii INTRODUCTORY NOTE which you dress your caiiliflower for dinner. The deUcious sauce ravigote which charms you with its daintiness at some fashionable cafe, is only a mayon- naise dressing in disguise ; the rich and savory soup, clear and stimulating, is merely brown stock devel- oped in a very simple manner. And so one might continue throughout the entire list of edibles described in the cookery books. No matter how complex or elaborate they may sound, they are all as easy of comprehension as two times two, when the foundation principles and how to correctly apply them have been learned. For the rules must be put into practical operation in order to obtain the desired results. Merely to know them will not enable one to become a master cook, but neither can one become a musician by simply mastering the names of the piano keys, though that knowledge must be gained before one is able to play the simplest composition. Therefore, but comparatively few actual recipes will be found in the pages of this book. It is not the writer's intention to emulate the authors of other voliunes on the subject of cookery, who have already supphed so many excellent collections of recipes. Instead, I hope to give you foundation formulae and rules which will enable you to adapt any recipe that you may wish to use, or to go still further and invent distinctive dishes of your own. Originality is one of the most important adjuncts to good cookery and there is no reason why the house- viii INTRODUCTORY NOTE wife should not exercise or develop this faculty as well as an artist or an author. I With a simple and easily managed rule for a sauce or a salad dressing, the woman with a nice sense of fitness wiU be able to produce at short notice a dish that heretofore would have appeared to her only possible for a chef to have made. Given one good, inexpensive cake formula and rules for adapting it, and the woman possessed of originahty will turn out a dozen varieties of this popular sweet, each more delicious, Ught, and tender than the last. And so on throughout the range of cookery. Everything is possible to the housewife who has been well grounded in the foundation and principles, and has also learned to use them correctly. The most elaborate dish, as will be shown in this volume, is often built upon the slenderest and simplest base. It is my purpose, therefore, to supply a systematic knowledge of the manner in which foods are prepared for the table, rather than categorical information on the subject ; to make this volume of practical worth to the woman whose duties are multifold, rather than a scientific analysis of food constituents and calorific values ; to enable the housewife of little experience to learn the rudiments of cookery, and to build upon a solid and comprehensive foundation a firm understanding of the entire subject. Caeoline B. King. IX Through the courtesy of the editors of Good Housekeeping, The Country Gentle- man, The Woman's Magazine, and The Ladies' Home Journal, various recipes which have appeared in those magazines are republished in this volume. Caroline B. King. XI GENERAL OUTLINE PART I. FOOD PRODUCTS ' Dough Flour Mixtures Batter Pastry f Made with Meat Soups I Made without Meat White Classified by Foundation Formulse Sauces Savory Sweet Brown , Drawn Butter „ , , ^ . f Uncooked Salad Dressings I Cooked ^ , ^ . f Uncooked Cake Icings I Cooked f Plain I Omelets I French Classified by Principle f Tender, Fine-grained Meats Meats < Tough, Coarse-grained, I Juicy Meats f Roots and Bulbs Vegetables \ Desserts XUl I Green Cold Hot GENERAL OUTLINE PART II. PROCESSES Methods of Cookery Methods of Prepaxation of Food Materials Boiling Roasting Frying Simmering Stewing Braising , Steaming Baking Toasting Broiling Planking Parching Saut^rng Deep Prying Pan Broiling Conservation of Fruits and Vegetables Mixing Rolling Stirring Beating Kneading Egging and Crumbing Molding ' With Pastry Bag With Vegetables With Fruits, Nuts, or Candies With Flowers With Paper Prills, Col- , lars. Rosettes, etc. Methods of Garnishing JQV CONTENTS Introductobt Note vii PART I FOOD PRODUCTS I Flour and Yeast Mixtttbes .... 3 II Quick-Raising Doughs 16 III Cake Mixtures 34 IV Pastry 45 V Soups 59 VI Sauces 74 VII Salad Dressings 87 VIII Cake Icings and Fillings .... 102 IX Omelets ' 115 X Food Products Classified by Principle . 123 XI The Preparation op Vegetables . . . 140 XII Debbebts 153 XIII Hot Desserts 174 XIV Souffles 187 PART II PROCESSES XV Processeb 197 XVI Roasting 210 XVII Baking 217 XV CONTENTS OHAPTBB FAOD XVIII Frying 223 XIX The Conservation op Fruits and Vegetables 231 XX Preserving and Jam Making .... 238 XXI Methods of Preparing Food Materials . 248 XXII Methods op Garnishing and Decorating . 256 Index 263 XVI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Cinnamon Buns, French Brioche, Salad Sticks, Swedish Coffee Braid, Parker House Rolls, Wheat Bread Frontispiece FACING FAGB Mixing the Cake Batter 40 Marshmallow Gingerbread and Cup Cakes ... 40 Strawberry Meringue Cake 40 Croquettes Made from White Sauce Foundation . . 76 Salad h la Caroline 100 Potato Salad with Beets 100 Making an Omelet 118 Caramel Bread Pudding 176 Dresden Pudding 176 Baked Apples 176 Method of Planking Steak 214 Potato Salad Garnished with Small Pickles, Pimentos and Nuts 258 The Pastry Bag and Tubes are Useful in Garnishing . . 258 xvu PART I FOOD PRODUCTS CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK CHAPTER I FLOUR AND YEAST MIXTURES Foundation — Floue, Liquid, Leavening, Salt, Shoktening Bread RoUs Busks Coffee Cakes Cinnamon Buns Election Cakes English Muf&ns . Brioclie Flour Mixtures (See General Outline) Dough Raised with Yeast Batter Raised -with Baking Powder or Soda f Thin ■ Biscuits Dumplings Shortcake Cheese Puflfs Cookies Doughnuts CruUers Scones \ Thick r Plain Pastry { Flaky [PuflE . Chou Paste CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK , Doughs All floiir mixtures, whether they form the plainest loaf of bread or the most elaborate and costly cake, or morsel of French pastry, have the same f oimdation. It is composed of four ingredients : floiir, liquid, leavening, and shortening. These form the base of all products made of flour. In some cases the leavening is omitted, and again the shortening is eliminated, but these are the exceptions which prove the rule, so we may take it for granted when a loaf of bread or a pan of biscuits or a cake or pie is to be made that it will contain these four articles. It is the other ingredients which are combined with these foiir that determine to which class or type the finished product belongs, for all flour mixtures, whether simple or complex, belong to one of the following four types : Dough, Batter, Pastry, or Chou Paste. In this classification, dough is of the first impor- tance, for it is the foundation of every variety of bread, roll, rusk, biscuit, shortcake, cruller, or cookie that has yet been invented. Dough is the founda- tion of the plain, substantial wholesome loaf of wheat bread, as it is also the foundation of the luscious shortcake or the crumbly cruller. Dough itself is again divided into sub-classes, and of these there are two, — those doughs which are leavened or raised with yeast, and those which depend Upon the carbon dioxide supplied by baking 4 FLOUE AND YEAST MIXTURES powder or soda for their lightness and delicate texture. ■'"" Yeast-raised dough may be plain or sweet, or it may he both, for from the plain dough which forms the loaf of good, light bread, or the pan of simple raised biscuits that almost every house- wife is able to compose, any of the coffee cakes, cinnamon buns, French brioche, rusks, or delicious tea cakes that one can think of or desire may be evolved. The foundation formula for baking-powder bis- cuits may also be developed into a number of other good things; dumplings, shortcake, scones, cheese puffs, cinnamon puffs, fruit rolls, and half a dozen more tempting and wholesome products are possible when one has learned to make a satisfactory biscuit dough. Good bread dough may be made without salt, sugar, or shortening, but the addition of these in- gredients insures a more palatable result. A loaf of bread composed of flour, water, and yeast, if it were carefully made and baked, would be light and crisp, but it would not appeal strongly to the palate. We have so accustomed ourselves to bread which is slightly sweet and salt, that those qualities are now a necessity to us, and, though but slightly apparent in the finished loaf, they would be greatly missed if not present. The following formula will produce two loaves of sweet, wholesome bread : 5 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Foundation Fonnula 1 cup milk 1 tablespoon shortening 1 cup water 5 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt J yeast cake 1 tablespoon sugar Method of Preparation Scald the milk and water together and add to the mixture a tablespoon of shortening, a tablespoon of sugar, and a teaspoon of salt ; cool till lukewarm. Meantime, dissolve the yeast in four tablespoons of tepid water and sprinkle a very little sugar over it. The sugar is valuable, as it helps the yeast plant to grow. When the yeast has dissolved and the liquid becomes filled with little air bubbles, add it to the cooled milk and water mixtm-e with two cups of sifted flour, and beat all vigorously. Now add more flour, beating constantly, until the mixture is stiff enough to be handled easily. Turn it out on a floured board and knead well for fifteen minutes or until the dough is soft and pliable and tiny air bubbles begin to appear during the kneading process. Not all of the five cups of floiu* may be required in this work, or in the case of some varieties of flour, the process may require a little more than this amount. It is not possible to give the exact quan- tity, as flours vary greatly. Add flour gradually, however, to prevent too much being used. ' When the kneading process is finished, make the dough into a large ball and place in a greased bowl. 6 FLOUR AND YEAST MIXTURES Rub t\e surface with a little melted butter, lard, or otheV shortening and cover with a clean cloth. Stand in a moderately warm place away from all draughts,y and allow the little yeast organisms to attend to their work of leavening the mass of dough. In from four to five hours the ball of dough should have doubled its original size and have become light and spongy. If one is using a gas range, it is a very good plan to Ught the oven burners of the range for five minutes while kneading the dough, then to turn them off and place the bowl in the oven. It will be just warm enough to stimulate the yeast plant to growth and wiU keep the dough from draughts. "When the dough is Ught, it will be quite porous and spongy, and if pressed with the fingers will feel elastic. Now turn it out on the floured board again, and after rubbing the hands with a little lard to prevent the dough from sticking, knead it lightly, adding a Uttle more floiu" if necessary. With a sharp knife, cut the dough into two sections and form into loaves, brush over with a little melted lard, using a small brush for the purpose ; place in well-greased pans and stand in a warm place until light. In from thirty to forty minutes the loaves should be ready for the oven. Bread must be put in a hot oven to bake. Made by this formula, two loaves will bake per- fectly in forty minutes. The first ten minutes of this time they should merely rise and perhaps begin to show a little brown in spots ; the second period 7 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK of ten minutes should see them becoming a delicate brown all over their surface and ceasing to rise, the third period they should finish browning, and during the fourth they should shrink slightly from the pans. After the first ten minutes the oven heat should be decreased sUghtly, and as the baking continues it may be lessened still more. The reason for the hotter oven at first is that the growth of the yeast plant must be checked early in the baking, or the loaf wiU become too porous, and this can be ac- complished only by a heat great enough to pene- trate to the very center of the loaf. When the baking is completed, the loaves will give forth a hoUow sound when tapped, and will be tmiformly brown all over their surface. For a rich, tender crust they should be rubbed with a little butter and allowed to cool without being wrapped or covered in any way. If whole-wheat or Graham bread is desired, substitute either of these flours for one half the quantity of white flom". Bread making is a very simple process, and after it has been practiced a few times, and a perfect loaf is produced, the housewife may begin to experiment with the development of her foundation formiila, for it is capable of many variations. Suppose, for instance, a pan of light rolls for sup- per or breakfast is desired. Nothing could be more easy. Simply divide the bread dough, when it is ready for the second kneading, into two parts, 8 FLOUR AND YEAST MIXTURES making one into a loaf, and reserving the other for the rolls. To the second portion add a tablespoon of melted butter, working it in very thoroughly. Make the dough into a loaf, place it in a greased bowl, and ' stand aside in a moderately warm place where it will rise very gradually. An hour before supper knead the dough again and cut into bits the size of walnuts. Make these into neat little biscuits and place close together in a well-greased pan. Stand in a warm sheltered spot and allow the rolls to become very Ught. Then bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Rub lightly with butter when finished and serve immediately. If the rolls are wanted for breakfast, keep the dough in a cool, but not a cold, place during the day, pushing it down with the tips of the fingers if it becomes light before it is required. Then, just before you retire, form it into rolls and brush over with melted butter. Stand in a cool place over- night and in the morning bake in a hot oven. Parker House Rolls. With a few changes this same dough may be used in making Parker House rolls, bread sticks, salad rolls, and other breads which are unsweetened, or only slightly sweetened. To the dough as described for plain rolls, add two table- spoons of sugar, a second tablespoon of melted butter, and the well-beaten white of one egg. Knead well, and stand aside to become light and spongy. Then form into such shapes as are desired. The Parker House rolls are made by rolling the dough into a 9 CAEOLINE KING'S COOK BOOK sheet half an inch thick. Cut with a biscuit cutter, brush each'disk with'melted butter, and fold together, pressing slightly to keep in shape. Place the folded rolls close together in a well-greased pan, stand in a warm place to rise, then bake and finish as in the preceding rule. Salad Rolls are merely very small biscuits cut from a sheet of dough prepared as for Parker House rolls, brushed over with butter, and when light baked in a hot oven./ They are served warm or cold. For afternoon tea, picnics, or luncheons, they are split and spread with butter and marmalade or a meat filhng, then put together once more. Bread Sticks are made from strips of the dough cut and rolled between the palms of the hands till of the thickness of a lead pencil. The sticks are then set to rise and when light are baked in the usual manner. Now let us see by what proceeding the foundation dough is transformed into coffee cake, cinnamon bun, election cake, brioche, and the other interesting and dehcious breads which appear so tempting in the bake shop. The method is much the same, as you will discover. The foundation formula for bread dough is followed and is used all or in part for the fancy breads which have been selected for the experiment. When the dough is ready for the second kneading, it is divided into two parts as before, one part to be reserved for the sweet rolls, cinnamon buns, or 10 FLOUR AND YEAST MIXTURES whatever is to be made. To this portion is added half a cup of sugar, two tablespoons of melted butter, and one or two well-beaten eggs, also enough flour to make the dough of the proper consistency for knead- ing. If all of the dough is to be utihzed in making the sweet bread, the amount of sugar and butter should be doubled, but one additional egg will be sufficient, or if a plainer rusk is wished, two eggs will be ample for their making. After the sugar, butter, and eggs are well incor- porated with the dough, it must be kneaded well, made into a loaf, turned into a greased bowl, and placed in a moderately warm spot to become fight. Care should be taken not to add any more flour than is actually necessary for kneading, as the dough will not rise well if too compact, neither will the finished product be as light and tender as is desired. When the sweetened dough has doubled its bulk, make it into the desired form, set to rise once more, and then bake after the manner described for bread. Swedish Coffee Braid is a very attractive bread. It is one of the many uses to which the sweetened and raised dough may be put. Divide the dough into three equal parts and roll these between the palms of the hands until they are about two inches thick and eighteen inches long. Place the strands together at one end, and plait them in a braid. Bring the two ends together, forming a circle, and press gently to hold them in place. Arrange the braid in a greased pan and stand in a wann place 11 CAEOLINE KING'S COOK BOOK to become very light. Just before baking, brush the dough with softened butter and sprinkle with cinnamon, granulated sugar, and chopped nuts, using about a tablespoon each of the sugar and nuts, with^ a teaspoon of cinnamon. When baked, the braid may be glazed with a tablespoon of sugar dissolved in two tablespoons of milk or thin cream, and a few more nuts may be sprinkled over the surface. Place the braid in the oven for a few mo- ments to dry the glaze. A small paint brush is an excellent mediiun for applying the sugar and milk dressing. Cinnamon Buns are very popular, but are not often made at home, most housewives being of the opinion that they are rather difficult to manage. By using the same sweetened dough as described in the previous paragraph, they are easily made. Roll the dough, when light enough for making into rolls, into a sheet half an inch thick. Brush it over with melted butter, and sprinkle with brown sugar, powdered cinnamon, and a few currants. Now roll up tightly as you would a piece of cloth, and with a sharp knife cut it in sUces about an inch and a half thick. Place these slices upright in a greased pan and stand in a warm place to rise. When very light, bake as usual. The cinnamon rolls may also be glazed with the sugar and milk solution when taken from the oven. If a very sticky bun is de- sired, the pan, after being greased, may be sprinkled rather thickly with brown sugar. Care must be 12 FLOUR AND YEAST MIXTURES taken in baking the buns, if this plan is followed, for the brown sugar will be very apt to burn. Keep the oven well under control at all times. Rusks are simply little buns formed of the pre- pared dough made into small balls, raised, baked, and brushed with the glaze or with confectioner's icing, which is made by moistening fine confec- tioner's sugar with as much water as it will absorb, and still remain clear and transparent. Brioche and Election Cake require a dough that is sUghtly richer than that described for the sweet- ened breads just given. An additional tablespoon each of butter and sugar and perhaps another egg, if eggs are plentiful, should be used in their making. Brioche are the delicious little French Coffee Cakes which are often served with afternoon tea. Prepare the dough and allow it to become very light. Then roll in a thin sheet, spread very lightly with softened butter, and fold in three, pressing lightly with the rolling pin. Now cut in strips about an inch wide and four inches long. Take these strips between the thumb and forefinger of each hand and twist them gently in opposite directions. Then bring the ends together in a circle, press together, and place in a well-greased pan, about two inches from each other. Let rise, then bake a delicate brown. Brush over with confectioner's icing and dry in a cool oven. Election Cake requires the addition of a cup of seeded and chopped raisins and half a cup of thinly 13 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK sliced citron or orange peel, with one fourth teaspoon each of ground cinnamon and mace. It is made into a loaf, allowed to rise for an hour or a little longer, then baked in a moderate oven from forty- five to sixty minutes, according to the size of the loaf. When finished, ice with the confectioner's icing and decorate with candied cherries, citron, or nuts. Baba Cakes are made of the brioche dough and are usually served for dessert. The dough is made into balls and placed in deep muffin pans, then al- lowed to rise as usual. When baked, the cakes are taken from the pans and a portion of the center of each is removed. The cavity is filled with preserves and the cakes served with a sweet sauce. Hot Cross Buns are also made of the brioche cake mixture. Simply add to the dough half a cup of chopped seeded raisins or cleaned currants, together with one foiu-th teaspoon of ground mace and cin- namon. Make into buns as usual, and stand in a warm place to rise. When light, chp a cross on each with a pair of shears, then bake, and when finished brush with the milk and sugar glaze. Fill the crosses with the confectioner's sugar icing and dry in a cool oven. There are just a few simple rules to remember when making the bread dough itself, or any of its variations. The yeast must be dissolved in water that is neither too warm nor too cold, as the one will check its growth and the other will chill it ; nor 14 FLOUR AND YEAST MIXTUEES must the dough be allowed to become either too warm or too cool, for the same reasons. A tem- perature of from 75° F. to 80° F. will produce the proper results. When fancy breads are under way, the dough will require somewhat longer to become light than the foundation dough, owing to the fact that .sugar, shortening, and other ingredients have been added to it. Also — and this is very important — no more flour than is necessary to permit one to handle the dough should be added to it, for a dough which is too stiff will not produce tender, light results. And be quite sure always that your dough is sufl&ciently light before putting it in the oven. By following these few precautions the least ex- perienced of housewives may attempt, and suc- cessfully, the making of any of the fancy tea cakes, buns, or nut breads that she desires. Remember the foundation formula does not change ; it is only in the sweetening, shortening, and number of eggs that the recipes differ. 15 CHAPTER II QUICK-RAISING DOUGHS Dough Raised with Baking Powder or Soda Biscuits Dumplings Cheese Puffs Cinnamon Puffs Shortcakes Cookies Doughnuts Crullers Scones There is another type of dough which is just as adaptable to variety as that raised with yeast, and as this is more convenient, — being quickly mixed, raised, and baked, — it is perhaps a more popvilar form than the first. This second type, while containing the four in- gredients which form the first, viz. : flour, liquid, shortening, and leavening, is raised with baking powder or soda. The former is used with sweet milk, the latter with buttermilk or sour milk. Both of these leavening agents act quickly, and products leavened by them are finished in a short period of time. 16 QUICK-RAISING DOUGHS A foundation formula for this type of dough is also available, and is capable of many variations. In using sweet milk, the following formula is used : Foundation Formula 2 cups flour 2 rounding tablespoons 4 level teaspoons shortening baking powder 1 cup milk or milk I teaspoon salt and water mixed Method of Preparation Sift together the flour, salt, and baking powder, then with the tips of the fingers rub in the shorten- ing until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Now pour in the liquid, and with a spatula or broad- bladed knife make the mixture into a soft dough. Tiim out on a floured board and knead very lightly for a moment. Remember heavy-handedness may ruin the dough, so touch it quickly and deftly as you work it into shape. The kneading should be more in the nature of patting or coaxing the dough than poimding or squeezing. Now roll the dough half an inch thick and cut it into rounds with a biscuit cutter. Dip a small paint brush into sweet milk and brush the biscuits hghtly with it, then bake in a very hot oven for twelve to fifteen minutes. If sour milk is used, the following formula will be used: 17 CAEOLINE KING S COOK BOOK Foundation Formula 2 cups flour i teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 tablespoons shortening i teaspoon soda 1 cup sour or buttermilk Method of Preparation Sift the dry ingredients together, rub in the shortening, and proceed as in the preceding recipe. Never add the soda to the sour milk, as by such a process the carbon dioxide is released too soon and the biscuits will be less light. Do not use more than the amount given, or the dough will be speckled and dark colored. It will also taste unpleasantly of the soda. Either of the above formulae may be used in mak- ing any of the products which follow. Emergency Biscuits are made by simply dropping the soft dough before kneading or rolling into greased muffin pans and baking it in a hot oven for ten to twelve minutes. This is a very quick and excellent breakfast bread, and it will make a satisfactory limcheon dessert served with maple syrup or mar- malade. Dumplings. Roll the dough between the palm into little balls about the size of walnuts, drop into boiling gravy or water. Cover closely and cook from ten to fifteen minutes. Serve with stews, fricassees, and other meat dishes. Dumplings may be steamed also. They should be placed on a greased 18 QUICK-BAISING DOUGHS plate in a steamer, covered well, and steamed for twenty minutes. Cheese Puffs. Roll the dough very thin, and sprinkle it with grated cheese and paprika, press lightly with the rolling pin, and fold so that the cheese is enveloped in the dough. Cut in strips an inch wide and four inches long and sprinkle a very little cheese and paprika on the surface. Place in a greased pan and bake till brown and puffy. Serve with salad or for luncheon. Cinnamon Puffs. Roll the dough in a thin sheet, brush with melted butter, and sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon. Roll up tightly and cut in inch lengths. Place in an upright position in a greased pan and bake in a hot oven. Jelly Puffs. Substitute jelly or jam for the butter, cinnamon, and sugar in the puffs and pro- ceed as before. Nut Puffs. . Make in the same manner, using chopped nuts and sugar in place of the jelly or jam. Turnovers. Roll the dough very thin, and cut it in squares. Place a spoonful of jam on each square, wet the edges, and fold over diagonally. Press the edges together and brush over with milk. Bake in a hot oven. Shortcake. Roll the dough about half an inch thick. Cut in two rounds to fit a pie pan and place one over the other, spreading the under layer with softened butter. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Remove from the pans, split, and butter 19 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK well. Spread the lower layer with crushed straw- berries which have been well sweetened. Place the second layer over the berries and cover it also with fruit. Top with whipped cream or serve with plain cream. Peaches, bananas, raspberries, oranges, or any preferred fruit may be used in place of the strawberries. Nut Bread. To the soft dough before kneading or rolling, add half a cup of chopped nut meats, using walnuts, hickory nuts, peanuts, or any pre- ferred nuts. Spread in a well-greased bread pan and bake in a moderate oven for thirty or forty minutes. Nut Muffins. Bake the mixture as just de- scribed in hoi gem or muffin pans for twenty minutes and serve immediately: Meat Pies. Dough made by either of the fore- going formulae will make an excellent crust for meat pies. Fruit Roly-poly. Roll the dough about half an inch thick, spread with fresh sugared fruit, or with jam or preserves. Roll up tightly and press the ends together to prevent the fruit from escaping while the roly-poly is baking. Place in a greased pan, brush over with milk, and bake about half an hour in a moderately hot oven. Serve with cream or sweet sauce. The roly-poly may be steamed or boiled if pre- ferred ; in this case it should be wrapped in a greased cloth, securely fastened, and placed in a kettle of 20 QUICK-RAISING DOUGHS rapidly boiling water for forty-five minutes. If it is to be steamed, place in a tightly covered steamer over the boiling water for an hour and a quarter. The water must not be allowed to stop boiling for a moment in either process, or the pudding will be heavy. Scones are a sweetened variation of the founda- tion formula. Three tablespoons of sugar are added to the dry ingredients, and one well-beaten egg is substituted for a portion of the milk. The manner of making the scones is the same as for biscuits, but they are usually cut in diamonds, brushed over with a httle of the egg mixed with milk, then sprinkled with granulated sugar before they are baked. Quickly raised dough is made in another form than that which has been described. This form is a sweet dough from which are made cookies, doughi- nuts, and crullers. Dough for these popular dainties, though made in much the same manner as that for biscuits and similar products, is somewhat richer and contains eggs and flavoring, besides sugar. The cookery books give a great many rules for the making of crullers and cookies, but one good foundation formula will serve every purpose in this as well as in other lines of cookery. Foundation Formula for Crullers and Cookies 4 cups flour i cup butter 4 teaspoons baking 1 cup sugar powder 2 eggs I teaspoon salt 1 cup milk Flavoring 21 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Method of Preparation Mix and sift together the flour, salt, and baking powder. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the well-beaten eggs, then add alternately to the eggs and sugar the dry mixture and the milk. Flavor with one fourth teaspoon of grated nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, or half a teaspoon of vanilla or lemon extract. When the mixture is made into a compact mass, turn out on a floured board and pat into shape. Roll out half an inch thick and cut into rings. Let stand a few minutes to stiffen slightly, then drop into deep boiling fat. Cook to a golden brown, turn once, then lift out with a skimmer, and drain on paper. When cool, dredge with powdered sugar mixed with a little cinnamon. For a richer Cruller, omit half the milk and use only enough flour to make dough of the proper con- sistency to roll. Chocolate Doughnuts are made from this founda- tion formula by adding three tablespoons of im- sweetened chocolate, melted over hot water, to the butter and sugar mixture ; then add the egg, milk, and other ingredients as directed, and fry as usual. Jam Crullers. Roll the dough thin and cut in rounds. Place a teaspoon of jam on each round, wet the edges, and place another round over it, press the edges together firmly and fry in deep, boiling fat. Nut Crullers. After rolling the dough in a sheet, 22 QUICK-RAISING DOUGHS sprinkle it with chopped nuts, and fold again. Roll once more and cut in rings, fry in hot fat, and when cool sprinkle with granulated sugar. Cookies. Rich cookies are made from this same formula by omitting half the milk and adding only enough flour to enable you to roll the dough. A plainer cookie may be made by using the foundation recipe without changes. Roll the dough very thin, and cut in disks or in fancy shapes. For variety sprinkle the cookies with granulated sugar, chopped nuts, or chopped candied fruit. Roll slightly before baking. The cookies may be decorated by placing a cherry, raisin, or nut meat in the centers before baking. Chocolate Cookies are made by omitting three or four spoonfuls of the flour from the foundation formula, and adding instead an equal amount of melted chocolate or cocoa. Cocoanut Cookies. Add half a cup of freshly grated or desiccated cocoanut to the dough before all the flom* has been added to it. Then make it just stiff enough to roll easily. Bake as usual. BATTERS Batters Thin Thick Waffles Griddleoakes Fritters Pop-overs Miafflns Gems Cake / Made with Butter \ Made without Butter (Cake is further subdivided on page 34) 23 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Batters, like the doughs, are cross-classified, and these subdivisions are again divided into various forms and types ; but no matter how many nor how varied these are, the foundation for them is always the same. A batter is always a batter, whether it be thick or thin, baked on a griddle or in mufiin pans, and made of flour alone, or mixed with rice or corn meal or some other product. The delicate angel cake and the crisp, substantial waffle belong to the same division in cookery, for all their dis- similarity. The principles that underlie the making of one form of batter are the same basic principles which control them all, so when one has learned the foun- dation formula for each type of batter, the matter of suiting it to various purposes becomes very simple. Batters are either thin or thick, according to the use to which they are to be put. Thin batters are used in making waffles, griddlecakes, and fritters; muffins, gems, and sweet cakes require a somewhat thicker, but by no means a stiff, batter. Some writers define these classes of batters as pour batters and drop batters, and these terms describe them very well. The thin batter, such as is used in pancakes and waffles, might, with sHght changes and additions, answer quite as well in making some of the products which require a thick or drop batter. Gems and muffins are only another type of the same batter which is used for pancakes, waffles, 24 QUICK-EAISING DOUGHS and fritters. It is merely made slightly thicker and baked in the oven instead of on a griddle or wafl9.e iron. When this fact is thoroughly understood, it will easily be seen that all that is required for making all of the hot cakes and breads I have just named is one satisfactory foundation formula. From her one good batter, the housewife may make any number of good things. Let us take the waffle batter, for instance, for waffles require the very thinnest of pom* batters. The foundation formula which I am giving will make waffles that will be most satisfactory : Foundation Formula li cups flour 2 cups milk 2f teaspoons baking 2 eggs powder 1 tablespoon melted J teaspoon salt butter Method of Preparation The most simple and efficient way of putting a batter together is to mix and sift all of the dry ingredients first, then to mix the liquids, and finally to combine the two mixtures. For a very light batter, the eggs should be beaten separately, the yolks mixed with the milk, and added to the dry ingredients, then the melted but- ter is beaten in, and lastly the stiffly whipped whites of the eggs are whipped in very lightly. If time is limited, the yolks and whites of the eggs may be 25 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK beaten together. The waffles will be just as rich and fine, if not quite so airy. The waffle iron should be well heated and brushed on both sides with melted fat or vegetable oil. The latter will produce a deliciously crisp brown waffle that will never stick to the iron. After preparing this batter several times, the housewife wUl have its proportions and the method of putting it together as firmly fixed in her mind as the alphabet, and will not find it necessary to con- sult her recipe book every time that she wishes to use this foundation formula. If it is more convenient to use sour milk and soda, her formula is not materially different, as will be seen: Formula IJ cups flour 2 cups sour niillr I teaspoon soda 2 eggs 1 tealspoon baking powder 1 tablespoon butter i teaspoon salt One fourth of a teaspoon of soda will neutralize the acidity in one cup of sour milk, therefore in any recipe of which sweet milk forms a part, sour milk may be used if one simply remembers to allow one fourth of a teaspoon of soda for each cup of sour milk and one teaspoon of baking powder to one or two cups of flour for additional lightness. Always, however, sift both baking powder and soda with the flour and then proceed as though the recipe had been left unchanged. 26 QUICK-RAISING DOUGHS In making pancakes, the foundation formula will again be used, adding one tablespoon more of flour or one fourth of a cup less milk. A pancake batter must be a thin batter also, it must be under- stood, only not quite so thin a batter as that for wafiles. The pancake griddle, like the waffle iron, should be smoking hot and rubbed with fat or oil. The cakes should be placed on the griddle from the point of a large spoon, and should be baked quickly and turned but once. Do not wash the griddle or the waffle iron after using, but rub them clean with a piece of soft paper, and place them on the back of the range or in the oven to dry. Scrubbing or washing them with soap or powder will cause the batter to stick each time they are used. Rice, Hominy, or other left-over cereals may be added to this thin batter as one wishes. To the in- gredients given, add one half a cup of cold cooked cereal mashed well and mixed with the batter until perfectly smooth. Com Meal may be used also; in this case omit half the quantity of flour designated and substitute the same quantity of corn meal. Scald the corn meal with a cup of boiUng water before mixing it with the other ingredients, as corn meal must be well cooked to make it thoroughly digestible. Entire wheat Flour or Graham Flour may be used in making the foundation formula also, though 27 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK it is well to use one half white flour with either of these coarser flours, in order that the batter may be smooth, and the waffles or cakes of good texture. Bacon Griddlecakes are very good for a cool weather breakfast. To make them add one eighth of a pound of sliced bacon, cut in dice and crisply fried, to the foundation formula. Omit the butter and add a tablespoon of the bacon fat in its stead. Fritters are always popular and form an excellent way of using many a bit of left-over fruit or vege- table, or pieces of meat too small to be of use in any other way. The same foundation formula, made as for pancakes, will be quite the thing for fritters, and if you wish to make them slightly sweet, you will add a tablespoon of powdered or granulated sugar to the batter. Pineapple, peaches, apples, oranges, or any of the larger fruits make exceUent fritters. They should be cut in pieces of a con- venient size and stirred into the batter ; a cup and a half of fruit to the foundation batter formula will be sufl&cient. Drop the batter by spoonfuls into deep boiling fat and cook about five minutes, or until the fritters are thoroughly done in the center. Then skitn out and drain on soft paper, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve with or without sauce. Honey or maple syrup is excellent with apple fritters. Pudding sauces of various kinds are served with other fruit fritters. Strawberries, cher- ries, or other small fruits are dropped into the batter 28 QUICK-RAISING DOUGHS whole, and cooked in the same way as in making fritters of larger fruits. Corn,^peas, asparagus, or any left-over vegetable may be put to use in the same way, leaving the batter tmsweetened, of course ; cauliflower, parsnips, and oyster plant make very fine fritters and are often served with tomato sauce. Cheese fritters are made by adding half a cup of cheese, grated or cut in very small pieces, to the batter, then proceeding as in making fruit fritters. Oysters, clams, and left-over fish are also used in making them. If fresh oysters or clams are to be used, they should be chopped slightly before being added to the batter. Should a few slices of cold meat remain from dinner, trans- form them into a delectable luncheon dish by chop- ping coarsely and adding them to the fritter batter. Fry as usual and serve with tomato catsup or chili sauce. Fritters are very good and economical as a luncheon dish, as they afford an excellent and appetizing way in which many a remnant of food may be put to use, and if waffles or griddle cakes have formed a break- fast dish, and some of the batter remains when the meal is finished, a double economy is possible. Pop-overs, while belonging to the thin batter class, form one of those exceptions to the general rule of which I spoke in the first chapter. They contain but two of the four ingredients which form the foundation formula, viz. : flour and liquid. The formula for pop-overs is as follows : 29 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Foundation Fonnula 1 cup flour 1 scant oup milk i teaspoon salt 2 eggs ^ I teaspoon melted butter Method of Preparation Sift together the flour and the salt, beat the eggs without separating them, and add the milk; then combine the mixtures, and beat very hard with an egg beater for two minutes. Pour into hot greased gem pans (iron or earthenware if possible) and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. The baking must be slow or the pop-overs will not rise to their fullest extent. When finished, they should be hollow. Pop-overs may be served with hard sauce as a pudding, with maple syrup or honey for breakfast, luncheon, or Sunday evening supper, or they may be served with marmalade for afternoon tea. If they are well made and baked, they will be welcome upon any occasion. This same recipe will be used in making Yorkshire pudding for serving with roast beef, or for a baked batter pudding to be served as a dessert with any desired pudding sauce. When muffins or gems are to be made, we leave the thin or pour batter for the thick or drop batter, though the same foundation formula may be used, if it is thickened slightly with flour; with each half cup of flour an additional half teaspoon of baking 30 QUICK-RAISING DOUGHS powder must also be used, and if the muffins are desired slightly sweet, sugar must also be introduced into the recipe. Therefore, although an experienced cook will very easily transfer the waffle batter into one suitable for muffins, it may perhaps be a wiser plan to adopt an entirely new foundation formula for muffins and gems. Foundation Formula for Muffins 2 cups flour 2 tablespoons sugar 3| teaspoons baking If cups milk powder 2 tablespoons melted I teaspoon salt butter 2 eggs Method of Preparation Mix this batter in the same method as directed in making the thin batter, mixing and sifting all of the dry ingredients together, then the liquid, and finally combining the two mixtures. Bake in well- greased muffin pans for twenty-five minutes. If gems are desired, use the same batter, baking it in hot greased iron gem pans. This thick batter is capable of much variation. It may be transformed into almost any kind of muffin or gem that one desires. Entire-wheat Muffins are made by substituting entire-wheat flour for the white flour. Graham Muffins. Substitute one cup of graham flour for one cup of white flour, then proceed as in the foundation formula. 31 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Berry Mufltos. Add a cup of blueberries or black- berries, — washed, drained, and dredged with flour, ■ — to the batter just before placing it in the pans. Rice Mufltos. Add one half a cup of cold boiled rice, mashed and mixed with the egg, to the foun- dation recipe. Hominy muffins are made in the same way. Oatmeal Muffins. Proceed as in the rice mufllns, substituting cooked oatmeal for the rice. Rye Muffins. Use one half rye and one half wheat flour, and add also two tablespoons of molasses to the foundation recipe. Corn-meal Muffins. Use one cup of corn meal and one of white flour in making the batter, other- wise the foundation formula is unchanged. Fruit Muffins. Add one fourth of a cup of chopped raisins or cleaned currants to the foundation formula ; bake in muffin pans as usual. Figs or dates, weU chopped, may also be added to the thick batter. Chopped nuts of any kind added to the entire-wheat or graham muffins make them very tempting and wholesome. Remember when adding fresh fruits to the batter to have them as dry as possible and merely to fold them into it, in order to avoid breaking them, as the juices would mingle with the batter and make it too thin for good results. Bacon Muffins make a very tempting breakfast dish. The bacon is cut in dice and fried, then added 32 QUICK-RAISING DOUGHS to the batter, to which may be substituted the bacon fat for the usual amount of butter. Soiir milk may be substituted for sweet milk in any of the foregoing muffins by following the rule for the use of sour milk given in connection with the thin batter on page 26. 33 CHAPTER III CAKE MIXTURES Made with Butter < Cup Pound Fruit Cake { [ Gingerbread r Sunshine Made without Butter : Sponge < Angel [ Lady Fingers When we begin the subject of cake making, we are very apt to think that we have reached a de- partment of cookery which is extremely difficult and complicated, one that will require long study and experiment before we can hope to master it in all of its branches, and which will be constantly unfolding before our eyes, disclosing new intricacies and complications. But the making of a cake is really no more difficult than the mixing of the breakfast muffins. Indeed, cake itself is only an- other and more delicate form of the thick batter, and is no more involved an undertaking when it is once comprehended. There are but two forms of cake, those which contain butter or other shortening, and those in which butter is omitted. Each variety has its particular manner of being assembled, and each 34 CAKE MIXTURES is made from a foundation recipe in which the principal articles which form the base of all flour mixtures play a prominent part. Eggs and sugar are added in every instance, and in the butterless cakes the shortening is omitted, but the finished product is none the less a type of flour mixture whose Ukeness to the other forms is easily recognizable. The butter cakes include the simple cup cake, the rich, delicate pound cake, the spicy and pungent fruit cake, and the wholesome gingerbreads. Sponge cakes, as we usually designate those cakes which are made without butter or shortening, include the golden sunshine cake and airy angel cake. All of the cakes that one can name belong to one or the other of these classes or types. Therefore, it will not be difficult to understand that when the simplest recipe of a class has been learned, it will be a very easy task to master the secrets of any of the others in that class. As the butter cakes are more widely made than the sponge cakes, let us study that subject first. Seven ingredients are required in making a cake of this type, and a great deal of doubt and confusion may be spared the housewife if, before beginning her cake making, she will gather all of these seven articles together and place them conveniently near her. These articles are butter, sugar, eggs, milk, flour, baking powder, and flavoring. When these are collected, the cake pans should be prepared. Grease them lightly but suflEiciently with softened 35 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK butter, using a small paint brush for the purpose. Then sprinkle the bottoms and sides of the pans with a little flour, turn them over, and strike them sharply in order that most of the flour may be shaken out, leaving but a light film in the pan. This method will insure a smooth surface for icing the cake. If preferred, the pans may be lined with paper. If this is done, the paper should be greased as well as the pans. The method of mixing a butter cake is always the same, whether the cake be plain or rich. Rinse a mixing bowl with hot water, then wipe it dry. Measure the butter and place it in the bowl. Whip the eggs, sift the flour with the baking powder, and measure the sugar. Now cream the butter with a wooden spoon ; when it is very soft, add the sugar gradually, and continue the creaming process. When the mixture resembles whipped cream, the egg yolks, beaten to a light froth, are added ; then the milk is poured into the bowl in which the eggs were beaten, and stirred about a little to rinse the particles of egg from it. Now add the milk and flom-, sifted with the baking powder, alternately to the cake batter and beat it vigorously. Flavor as desired, and fold in the stiffly beaten white of the eggs. The more the cake is beaten before the egg whites are added, the finer and the more deli- cate will be its texture. If a white cake is desired, that is, a cake which contains no egg yolks, proceed in exactly the same 36 CAKE MIXTURES manner as directed, folding in the whites of the eggs at the last moment before baking. One point about the addition of eggs to a cake or other batter it might be well to note. Almost all recipes will direct you to beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately, and this method is correct if you desire a very light, fluffy cake that is to be eaten the same day it is made. For a richer, but not quite so light a cake, beat the yolks and whites together until they are light colored and thick. This process will produce a cake that will keep moist and in good condition for several days. Should you, however, desire a very rich cake, and are not particular about its being extremely light, drop the eggs into the batter, one by one, without beating them at all. Then beat the batter strenuously. The cake will be fine grained and delicious, if not so feathery and light as when eithier of the other methods are followed. As in the other batters I have enumerated, the foundation cake formula may be changed and en- riched to suit the demand. Foundation Formula for Simple Butter Cake 1 tablespoon butter 2 level teaspoons baking 1 cup sugar powder 2 eggs i cup milk Ij cups flom: Flavoring This cake may be flavored with a grating of nut- meg and a little lemon rind and baked in a loaf, or 37 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK it may be flavored with almond or vanilla extract, or with grated orange peel. - It may be baked in layers and put together with any one of a dozen delicious fillings or icings; it may be baked in patty pans and iced, or simply sprinkled with sugar just before baking. Or it may be baked in a shallow pan and cut in fancy shapes with a small cutter, and iced and decorated in any way that is desirable. Small cakes of this kind are very tempting when ornamented with candied cherries cut in halves, angelica, violets, or nuts. Fruit Cake. By the simple addition of a cup of chopped raisins, half a cup each of currants and candied peel thinly sliced and cut into tiny bits, and flavored with cinnamon and nutmeg, a very good fruit cake may be made. Nut Cake. A cup of chopped nut meats will transform the plain cake into a rich nut loaf. Chocolate Loaf or Devil's Food. Omit two tablespoons of flour and substitute the same amount of melted chocolate with a pinch of cinnamon for a chocolate loaf cake or devil's food. Sweet Strawberry Shortcake. If a sweet straw- berry shortcake is desired, make the foundation recipe, bake it in two layers, cool slightly, and put together with crushed and sweetened berries. Rasp- berries, peaches, bananas, or oranges may be used in the same way. Indeed, almost any cake that one desires may be made from the simple foundation formula. 38 CAKE MIXTURES Richer cakes are made in the same manner. The method is always the same in making butter cakes, whether one uses half a cup or a poimdof butter, one or a dozen eggs. A word as to the baking of cakes, for many a good loaf has been ruined after it has reached the oven. Remember, the temperature of the oven should be low at first, gradually increasing as the baking proceeds. Divide the baking of cakes into three periods, as directed in the chapter on bread baking, then there will be little danger of scorching them. When a cake is not sufficiently baked, it will give forth a faint surging or hissing when held to the ear. When completely baked, no sound will be heard. The following foundation recipe for a rich white cake may be varied in the same way as the plainer cake which has just been described. Foundation Formula for White Cake 1 cup butter f cup milk 1^ cups sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder Whites of 5 eggs i teaspoon almond extract 2 cups flour Pound Cake Formula Here is a foundation formula for a simple pound cake, which may also be varied as one desires : i cup butter 4 eggs 1 cup sugar Grated rind of i lemon 2 cups flour, sifted twice I teaspoon baking Pinch mace powder 39 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK By adding a cup each of raisins, currants, and thinly sliced citron, and half a teaspoon each of mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg, a very good and rich fruit cake may be made from this foundation formula. Gingerbread is a form of thick batter which son. authorities would perhaps hesitate to place in the same category with cakes, but properly made, it is a product fine enough to rank with the finest of this variety of flour mixtures. Gingerbread is more often made with sour milk or buttermilk than with sweet milk, the reason for this being that it contains molasses, which is also an acid requiring soda as a neutralizing agent ; therefore, it is better to use sour milk than sweet, as the lactic acid in it makes a more satisfactory combination with soda. Foundation Formula for Gingerbread f cup shortening 1 teaspoon soda 1 cup molasses 1 cup sour or buttennilk 1 cup sugar 2 eggs 1 tablespoon ground ginger 4 cups flour 1 teaspoon cinnamon Method of Preparation Place the molasses, shortening, sugar, ginger, and cinnamon in a bowl and stand in a warm place until the shortening melts. Then beat to a cream. Sift the flour with the soda, and beat the eggs without separatitig them. Add the sour milk and eggs to the molasses and sugar mixture, then gradually beat in the floiu" and soda. Beat very hard for 40 Country of iiuua H rozen Uesserts | ^^^^ Foundation Batter . . Bread Desserts \ Pnrfdinff 1 Rice Tapioca Suet Fruit Indian Batter Hot Baked Pudding BoUed or Steamed Puddings Souflfles There are various reasons why the dessert should be regarded as an important adjunct to the dinner ; the first is that sugar being quite as necessary an element in our diet as protein or fats, without a proper proportion of it, it is impossible to compose a well-balanced meal. Another reason why the dessert should be given due consideration is that, served at the end of the meal as it is, when the keen edge of the appetite has been dulled, the sweet 153 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK dish must be daintily made and very tempting if it is to be eaten with a keen sense of enjoyment. Then, too, the housewife who wishes to be regarded as a fine cook will remember that it is the dessert which will leave a lasting impression on the minds of the diners, as it is eaten just before they leave the dinner table. Whether a dessert is to be served hot or cold, it contains the same foundation elements : sugar, liquid, a thickening agent, and flavor. Some des- serts include fruit, others nuts, and still others chocolate or cocoa, but whatever accessories may be added for variation or flavor, the foundation re- mains the same. The question of the thickening agent determines to a great extent the class to which the dessert belongs. In jellies, gelatine is used ; in custards, eggs ; in blancmanges, cornstarch ; in various other puddings, flour, rice, tapioca, and other products. In ice creams, ices, and sherbets, the ice and salt used in freezing the product act as thickening agents. Fresh fruit with cream and sugar is the ideal des- sert, but except in summer when berries or peaches are to be had, this is not served as often as it should be. We have grown so accustomed to the com- plex and elaborate creams and jelhes, the boiled or baked puddings, and the blancmanges and charlottes, that fruit in itself seems rather too simple for our tastes, although it is very often served in com- bination with creams, jellies, or other deUcacies. 154 DESSERTS It is impossible to treat so large a subject as desserts in as direct a manner as the other food prod- ucts which have been dealt with in this volume. There are too many varieties of desserts to permit one to classify them in quite the same way, nor would it be either practicable or possible to describe all of the desserts which have been evolved from the few elements which form the base of each. All desserts are divided into two large classes: those which are served cold, and those which are served hot. Each of these classes is again divided into various subdivisions, and a foundation principle for each of these smaller classes has been formed. The cold desserts comprise the jellies, custards, junkets, puddings which are served cold, and frozen dishes. The hot desserts contain but one class, the pud- dings which are served as soon as they are taken from the oven, or from the kettle. All of the jellies which are served as desserts have for their common foundation some form of gelatine. These desserts are again divided as follows : Fruit-flavored Jellies { ^^^^^ Jellies Jellied Fruits or Nuts Snow Pudding Creams Coffee Jelly Spanish Dresden Pudding The gelatine desserts are not difl&cult to make, though some of them may sound rather complicated. 165 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK There are a few principles to keep in mind when undertaking these dishes, and when they are learned, even the most elaborate dessert of this type will soon be a simple matter to undertake. Foundation Principle for Gelatine Desserts Soak gelatine in cold water ; Add sugar to boiling water ; Do not boil after gelatine or flavoring is added ; Pour into wet mold ; ChiU for several hours. Fruit-flavored jellies are the most simple and the most popular of the fruit desserts. They are all made upon the same foundation, only the flavoring is changed. Lemon Jelly 2 tablespoons granulated 1 cup sugar gelatine soaked in half 2i cups boiling water a cup of cold water J cup lemon juice Soak the gelatine for twenty-five minutes in the cold water. Pour the boiUng water over the sugar and stir till dissolved, then add the gelatine, once more stir well, add the lemon juice, strain, and pour into a mold wet in cold water. Chill for several hours, then turn out, and serve with cream or boiled custard. Orange jelly, pineapple jelly, or any other fruit jelly is made in the same way, except that a cup and a half of fruit juice is used in place of a portion of the boiling water, and two tablespoons of lemon juice are also added with the other fruit juices. Russian Jelly. By simply beating any of the 156 DESSERTS fruit jellies to a stiff froth with an egg beater while they are cooling, the plain jelly is trans- formed into the Russian jelly. When they have begun to congeal, pour into a wet mold and chill. The jelly will be delicate, light, and frothy through- out. For variety, mold the Russian jelly in in- dividual molds. Jellied Fruits or Nuts are made with the same plain gelatine foundation. Prepare two cups of any fruit that is preferred by seeding, paring, shelling, or cutting into sections of desired size. Cool the jelly almost to the point of congeahng, add the fruit, and stir till too stiff to manage. Pour into a mold and chill; or the jelly may be arranged in layers, left to harden, then the fruit added; cover this with a second layer of jelly, and so continue until the mold is full. Snow Pudding. Make the lemon jelly, and cool slightly, then beat with an egg beater till hght and frothy. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth and add to the whipped jelly, beating con- stantly till it stiffens slightly. Pile by spoonfuls into a wet mold or into a glass dish ; serve very cold with boiled custard or cream. Coffee Jelly. Make in the same manner as the fruit jelhes, substituting a cup of clear, strong coffee for a cup of water. Mold, chill, and serve with cream. The creams which are formed on the gelatine foundation usually contain eggs and milk or cream. 157 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Sometimes fruit, nuts, or other ingredients which enrich them are also added. Spanish Cream 1 tablespoon granulated gelatine 3 eggs 3 cups milk f teaspoon salt § cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla Dissolve the gelatine in a Uttle of the cold milk. Scald the rest of the milk and add the sugar, pour over the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, then cook over hot water till slightly thickened. Add the gelatine, salt, and flavoring, then pour over the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Whip all well and pour into individual molds. Chill and serve with cream. If a large mold is preferred, use twice the amount of gelatine as a thickening agent. Dresden Pudding is a variation of the foregoing recipe. In it, however, the milk is omitted, and a cup of whipped cream substituted. Fruits, nuts, and lady fingers are also added. Dresden Pudding 1 tablespoon granulated 3 eggs gelatine J cup candied f cup sugar cherries 4 lady fingers | cup candied i cup sultana raisins pineapple 1 cup whipping cream I cup blanched 1 tablespoon sherry almonds Break the lady fingers into pieces. Chop the various fruits and mix them with the wine. Chop the blanched almonds also. Beat the yolks of the 158 DESSERTS eggs to a stiff froth, add the sugar, and beat again. Stir in the lady fingers, then the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff dry froth and mixed with the cream, whipped soUd, and the gelatine soaked in a httle cold water. Stir all of the ingredients till the mix- ture begins to congeal. Then pile into a mold and chill. When cold, turn out on a lace paper doily and decorate with candied cherries, or with sweet peas or ferns. Serve with or without cream. This pudding may be varied by substituting candied violets for the fruits and decorating it when taken from the mold with violets. Shredded cocoa- nut makes a very good substitute for the candied fruits. The sherry may be omitted. Charlottes form still another variety of the gelatine creams. A mold is Uned with halved lady fingers, and filled with whipped cream stiffened with gela- tine, and flavored variously, or the cream described in Dresden pudding may be used, omitting the fruits and wine. Chocolate Charlotte. Add a square of grated chocolate to the Dresden pudding cream, omitting fruits and wine. Caramel Charlotte. Melt a tablespoon of granu- lated sugar till it reaches the brown stage, then add to the other ingredients in the Dresden pudding, omitting fruit and nuts. Coffee Charlotte. Make the cream as for Dresden pudding and flavor with two tablespoons of clear, strong coffee. 159 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK A number of elaborate and delicate desserts may be made from these recipes. The housewife who is interested in cookery will be able to build many tempting and handsome dishes from the preceding formulae. Custards Custards, which come next in point of simplicity, are divided into two classes, those which are boiled and those which are baked, and these classes are again subdivided as follows : Custards Boiled or liquid Baked or solid Cake Trifle Floating Island Caramel Chocolate Caramel Chocolate Maple Coffee Whether of the first or the second class, the same basic principles govern all custard making. Heat milk to boiling point. Beat eggs, sugar, and cornstarch together. Pour milk over egg mixture. J Add flavoring. Steam. While the first class of custard is regarded as boiled, and the second as baked, they are in reality both steamed, one on top of the range, the other in the oven. One is served in a liquid state, the other in a semi-solid state. But both are made in much the same way. 160 DESSERTS Boiled Custard 2 eggs 1 pint milk s cup sugar Flavoring 1 teaspoon cornstarch Bring the milk to the boiling point and beat the eggs with the sugar and cornstarch, pour the boiling milk over the noixture, and stir till the sugar is dis- solved. Then place in a pan of boiling water and stir gently over a slow fire till the mixture thickens shghtly and masks the spoon. Be very careful when this point is reached not to allow the custard to remain in the boihng water, for it is very Uable to curdle if cooked an instant too long. The addition of the cornstarch eliminates this danger to a great extent. Boiled custard is an excellent foundation for trifles, and other desserts ; it is also served as a sauce with puddings. Baked Custard 2 eggs 1 pint milk 5 cup sugar Flavoring 1 teaspoon cornstarch Scald the milk and beat the eggs, sugar, and corn- starch together. Pour the hot milk over the mix- ture and stir till the sugar is dissolved. Flavor and pour into greased custard cups or ramekins, stand in a pan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven till firm. Either the boiled or baked custard may be varied to suit the taste in many ways. 161 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Caramel Custard. Melt a tablespoon of sugar till a deep brown and pour the hot milk over it to dissolve, then proceed as in previous recipe. A few drops of vanilla will make the flavor more deUcate. Maple Custard. Substitute half a cup of maple syrup for the sugar in either recipe. Chocolate Custard. Melt a square of unsweet- ened chocolate and add to the hot milk. Coffee Custard. Omit half the milk in the formula and add an equal amount of clear strong coffee. Flavor with vanilla. Several popular desserts have for their foundation a well-made boiled custard. Cake Trifle is one of these. Line a glass dish with thin shces of stale cake or halved lady fingers. Spread with a little jelly and cover with a layer of macaroons. Pour vanilla-flavored boiled custard over the macaroons and top with whipped cream. Bananas, peaches, or other fruits may be used in combination with this dish. Serve very cold. Floating Island. Make the boiled custard as directed, and chill. Pour into a glass dish and top with the whites of the eggs beaten to a very stiff froth and sweetened with two tablespoons of sugar, then beaten again till stiff, and flavored as preferred. Drop by spoonfuls on boiling water and cook gently for two or three minutes. Skim off and place on the custard. Garnish with dots of red jelly or with cherries or preserved strawberries. 162 DESSERTS Junkets fNut Junkets : Plain < Chocolate [ Caxamel Junkets are very digestible and wholesome des- serts. They are formed of milk curdled with rennet. The latter is usually purchased in the form of tablets which are called " Junket Tablets." While junkets, like custards, may be made in innumerable forms, the foimdation principles in all are the same. Heat the milk till lukewarm ; Break the junket tablet into small pieces ; Add sugar, flavoring, and tablet to milk ; Stand in warm place till set. It will be observed that in making a junket, quite the opposite method from that usually followed of chilling the dessert to cause it to congeal is em- ployed ; the milk is heated only until it is tepid, the tablet, sugar, and flavoring are added, and the mixture is kept in a warm place to congeal. The reason for this is that the reimet will not act upon the milk imless it is blood-warm. If the milk is heated too hot, the rennet will prove inactive; it must be just blood-warm. Simplest Form of Junket 2 cups of nulk Few grains of salt f cup of sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 junket tablet Heat the milk until lukewarm and add the sugar and salt. Crush the tablet and add to the mixture with the vanilla. Stir till the tablet is well dissolved. 163 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Then pour into a glass dish and stand in a warm, but not hot, place. When serving this junket, a spoonful of whipped cream may be placed on top, or chopped nuts sprinkled over it. Chocolate Junket. Dissolve a square of un- sweetened chocolate over hot water and add to the warm milk. Proceed as in plain junket. Caramel Junket. Melt the sugar over the fire till a Ught brown, add one third of a cup of boiling water, and stir till cool. Then add to the mijlk. Junket is a deUcious accompaniment to berries, sUced peaches, baked apples, or other fruits. Blancmange Blancmange {Plain Easter Pudding Chocolate Golden Fruit Cornstarch is a valuable adjunct to good cookery. It may be used in innumerable ways, as a thickening agent in various dishes, or in combination with liquid in forming a dessert. Blancmange, of which cornstarch is the thickening agent, is one of the most popular cold desserts that we have. Fruit juices or milk may be used in its making, and eggs may be added or not as preferred. Foundation Principles in Making Blancmange Scald milk ; Mix cornstarch with sugar and cold milk ; Add to hot milk ; Cook thoroughly. 164 DESSERTS A plain cornstarch blancmange, containing just enough of the starch to make it sufficiently thick to hold its shape, and served with plain cream, is a deUcious and wholesome dessert. It must be carefully made, however, — smooth, deUcate, and thoroughly cooked. Hah-cooked starch is neither healthful nor agreeable. Blancmange 2 cups milk | teaspoon salt i cup cornstarch J cup cold milk 2 tablespoons sugar J teaspoon vanilla Scald the milk over boiling water, and mix the cornstarch, sugar, and salt. Add the cold milk to the dry ingredients and mix to a paste. Stir into the scalded milk and cook over hot water fifteen minutes, stirring frequently. Pour into a wet mold and chill. Turn out on a lace paper doily and serve with crushed fruit, plain or whipped cream, or with a deUcate cold pudding sauce. Easter Pudding. Make the blancmange as in the foregoing formula, and when it is thoroughly cooked, add one fourth teaspoon of almond ex- tract, and whip in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. If you wish, you may color it a very* delicate pink or yellow with vegetable coloring. Or, a por- tion of the blancmange may be left white and poured into a large mold, the rest tinted and placed in tiny molds. When ready to serve, turn the large mold out on a lace paper doily with the small puddings 165 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK grouped about it, decorate with whipped cream, or flowers; grated cocoanut added to the pudding makes a pleasant variation. Chocolate Blancmange. Add half a square of melted chocolate to the plain blancmange formula. Golden Blancmange. Beat well two egg yolks and add to the plain blancmange just before removing it from the fire. Flavor with a Uttle grated orange peel. Fruit Blancmange. Substitute the juice of straw- berries, raspberries, or pineapple for the milk in the plain blancmange, and add also a teaspoon of lemon juice. A teaspoonful more of the cornstarch may be necessary when fruit juices are used. Egg whites beaten stiff may be added at one's discretion in this formula. Frozen Desserts Although most housewives depend upon the caterer for their ices and ice creams, it is really quite a simple matter to make them at home. When one has a good ice-cream freezer, a deUcious vanilla ice cream may be quickly made for dinner, or a fruit ice for luncheon, in a very short time. The question of expense is small as compared with the prices qharged at the best confectioner's for any variety of frozen sweet. It is not always neces- sary to have cream for the making of a dessert of this kind. A good boiled custard, well frozen and packed away for an hour to ripen, will prove almost as good as a rich cream. Fruit juices, too, make 166 DESSERTS delicious frozen desserts, and both may be varied to suit almost any occasion. Frozen desserts are a division of the cold desserts, and are again classified as follows : f Sherbets Water lee < FrappS [Punch Fruit Frozen Desserts Frozen Custard Ice Cream Mousse Nut Coflfee Caramel Chocolate Fruit Coffee Caramel Chocolate Bisque Banana Frozen Pudding Water ices are the simplest form of the frozen dessert. They are inexpensive and easily made, as they are usually merely fruit juices sweetened, diluted with water, and frozen. From the water ice is made either the sherbet, the frapp6, or the punch. Frozen custard is an inexpensive cold dessert and is capable of many delightful variations. Ice cream proper caUs for pure cream in its making, and the mousse is simply a flavored and frozen whipped cream. Foundation Principles for Water Ices Boil sugar and water to a ssrrup ; Add fruit juice ; Cool; Freeze and pack away to ripen. 167 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK The sugar and water should always be boiled to a thick syrup when water ice or any of its variations is to be made; otherwise, the product will have a raw taste and rough texture. When the syrup has been partially cooled, add the fruit juice, then con- tinue cooling, and freeze. Lemon Water Ice 4 cups water i cup lemon juice 2 cups sugar Thinly pared rind of one lemon Make a syrup of the sugar and water, boiUng them, with the thinly pared lemon peel, for five minutes. Strain, cool, and add the strained lemon juice to the syrup. Fruit Juice Ice Other than Lemon 2 cups water 1 cup fruit juice 1 cup sugar Juice of half a lemon Rind of 1 lemon Proceed as in the first formula, squeezing the fruit, if berries, through a double thickness of cheese- cloth to obtain the juice. The foregoing recipes are all the housewife will require for any water ice, sherbet, frapp^, or punch she will desire to make. The amounts may be in- creased or lessened in proportion, but the founda- tion principles will remain the same. Sherbets are made by adding the beaten whites of two eggs to the foundation formula for water ice. If eggs are out of the question, dissolve an envelope 168 DESSERTS of gelatine in one fourth cup of cold water and add it to the hot syrup. Then proceed as previously directed. Frappe is merely water ice which is only half frozen. It is usually served in tall slender glasses. Punch is water ice to which wine or rum has been added. The frozen creams are more complex than the ices, but are still very easy to manage. The least expensive of these is the frozen custard, the formula for which is not unlike that given for simple boiled custard. Frozen Custard 2 cups scalded milk 2 eggs i cup sugar i teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 teaspoon vanilla Scald the milk and add to it the sugar, salt, corn- starch, and eggs, beaten together. Simmer over boiUng water till smooth, then add flavoring, and remove from the fire. To this may be added, when cooled, two cups of whipped cream. The mixture is then frozen and packed away to ripen for an hour, or longer. If the cream is not used, add another cup of milk and one fourth a cup of sugar in ad- dition to the amount called for. Or, the yolks of the eggs only may be used in the cooked cream, the whites beaten to a stiff froth and added just before the mixture is placed in the freezer. To this foundation may be added various flavor- 169 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK ings, or the cream may be changed in a number of ways. Strawberry Ice Cream. Crush a pmt of berries and press the juice through a fine sieve. Add to the cooled custard, with additional sugar as seems necessary. Stir well, then add the whipped cream, and freeze as usual. Raspberry Ice Cream is made like strawberry. Peach or other fruit creams are also made in the same way. Chestnut Ice Cream. Boil a pint of chestnuts, shell, and cut the nuts into fine pieces. Add to the cooling custard and proceed as in the fruit ice creams. Coffee Ice Cream. Pour a cup of boiUng water on one fourth of a cup of pulverized coffee. Let the mixture stand for half an hour, then strain through a double thickness of cheesecloth. Add to the scalded milk when making the custard. Fin- ish as in frozen custard. Flavor with a half tea- spoon of vanilla. Caramel Ice Cream. Melt half a cup of sugar over the fire till it is of a bright brown color, then pour a cup of boiUng water over it, and simmer till thick. Add to the scalded milk. Finish as usual. Chocolate Ice Cream. Grate and melt two squares of chocolate in the scalded milk when making the custard. Finish as directed. Maple Ice Cream. Substitute a cup of maple syrup for the half cup of sugar in the original formula. Ice Cream made from pm-e cream is richer and 170 DESSERTS perhaps slightly smoother than that made of cus- tard. It is not necessary to buy a heavy cream for it, as the ordinary thin cream will answer very well. Philadelphia Ice Cream 1 quart thin cream J cup of sugar 1 tablespoon vaniUa Scald the cream with the sugar, then cool it well, and add the flavoring. Freeze as usual. Scalding the cream makes the finished product of much finer grain than when raw cream is used; besides the sugar blends with it more satisfactorily while it is hot. All of the variations suitable for frozen custard may be made with this foundation also, and in addition a few others which are always hked. Bisque Ice Cream. Add a cup of macaroon crumbs, finely rolled, to the foundation formula for Philadelphia ice cream. Banana Ice Cream. Force four bananas through a coarse sieve and add to the foundation cream. Frozen Pudding. Shred a cup of mixed candied fruit very fine, and soak it in three tablespoons of rum or orange juice for an hour, freeze the cream to the mushy stage, and add the fruit. Continue freezing till sohd. Pack to ripen as usual.. The Method of Freezing Much of the success of homemade ice cream de- pends upon the manner in which it is frozen. The same mixture may be either fine-grained, delicate, 171 CAKOLINE KING'S COOK BOOK and smooth, or it may be granular and coarse; everything depends upon the freezing. The first reqmsites in making any dessert of this kind are a good freezer, a heavy burlap bag, a wooden mallet, a dipper, and a sufficient quantity of ice and rock salt. Break the ice coarsely and place the pieces in the burlap bag, then crush them fine with the mallet. Some housewives prefer chipping the ice with a shaver which comes for the purpose, but that method seems wasteful. In the bag the ice may be crushed almost as fine as snow with absolutely no waste. Place the empty can in the freezer, and adjust the top and dasher; turn the handle a few times to ascertain if all is in working order. Then begin to pack the freezer with the ice and salt. Put in three dippers of crushed ice, packing it in closely with the end of the mallet or a broom handle, then sprinkle in one dipper of salt. Continue in this way until the freezer is nearly fiill. Pack the ice in as tightly as you can, turn the crank a few moments, then remove the top, and pour in the mixture. Cover, replace the top, and continue packing the ice and salt in the freezer. When full, begin turning the crank very slowly at first, then faster as the mixture begins to congeal. When you can no longer turn the handle, draw off the salt water by removing the plug in the side of the freezer, remove the dasher from the can, and pack the cream solidly with a spoon. Put on the 172 DESSERTS cover, in which you have placed a tightly fitting cork, and pack the freezer with the ice and salt, using the same proportions. Cover with the bag or a piece of carpet and allow to stand for an hour or longer to ripen. If you wish to turn the cream from the freezer in a sohd mass, remove the can from the freezer and place in a pan of cold water. Wipe the outside carefully, and remove the cover. Run a knife about the edge of the cream, invert the can on a platter, and the mixtm-e will shp out neatly. Ice cream may be placed in a mold when frozen sohdly and then packed in the ice and salt mixture, placed to ripen, and when ready to serve, may be tmned from the mold in the manner just described. Foundation Principles of Freezing Finely crushed ice — 3 parts. Rock salt — 1 part. Close packing of ice and salt. Slow turning of the crank when beginning to freeze, increasing speed as freezing continues. Packing frozen mixture solidly. Sufficient time for ripening. Never draw off salt water until cream is frozen. Remember, too much salt in freezing will cause the mixture to congeal so rapidly that it will be coarse- grained and granular instead of fine and smooth. Also, if the ice is not finely crushed, the cream will not freeze solidly. 173 CHAPTER XIII HOT DESSERTS Elements : Liquid — Sweetening — Flavor — Thickening Agent — Heat Hot Desserts Puddings Baked Boiled Steamed Bread Rice Tapioca Batter 'Suet Indian Fruit Batter fSuet Indian Fruit Batter I Souffles Hot puddings are either baked, boiled, or steamed ; they may contain eggs or not, fruit as one desires, be flavored and spiced to suit the individual prefer- ence, and for a thickening agent they may have any one of a variety of products. Bread is frequently used, or rice, or some other variety of cereal, or tapioca, or flour. Bread Pudding Bread Pudding Plain Butterscotch Caramel Cocoanut Maple Fruit 174 HOT DESSERTS The bread pudding is the most familiar of all hot puddings, but it is not always palatable, because too much bread is used in its making. If one will only remember, in making puddings, that the thick- ening agent is merely used as a medium for the flavors and sweetening, one's puddings will be im- proved. The bread in a bread pudding is merely used to hold the other ingredients together and to supply a background for the flavors. A well-made bread pudding is a very dehcious dessert and is capable of innumerable variations. The following principles will enable any one to produce a deUcate, smooth pudding : Always soak tlie bread in water ; Scald the milk and add the sugar, eggs, and butter ; Bake the pudding slowly. Bread for a pudding of this kind must be soaked in water to produce Ughtness and delicacy. The milk is scalded with the butter and sugar, because scalded milk 'makes the pudding smoother than raw milk. The pudding is baked slowly in order that the eggs and milk will not curdle, as they might with rapid baking. Plain Bread Pudding 1 thick sUoe bread J cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter 2 eggs i teaspoon salt 1 pint milk 1 tablespoon butter Flavoring Soak the bread, cut an inch and a half thick, or its equivalent in broken pieces, in cold water for 175 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK twenty minutes. Then press out all the water and crumble the bread to bits. Meantime, bring a pint of milk to the boihng point and add the salt, sugar, butter, and beaten eggs to it. Pour over the bread and stir well. Flavor with a teaspoon of vanilla. The pudding will appear thin, but it will become sufficiently thick when baked. Pour into a well- greased dish and bake forty minutes in a slow oven. If a level teaspoon of cornstarch is mixed to a thin paste with a little cold milk and added to the hot milk, the pudding will be somewhat thicker. This is a good plan for those who do not care for any liquid in a pudding of this kind. Caramel Bread Pudding. Make as above, but flavor with a tablespoon of granulated sugar melted to a bright brown over the fire and then added to the hot milk. Flavor with vanilla. Chocolate Bread Pudding. Add a square of un- sweetened chocolate to the milk while it is being heated, then follow the original method in making the pudding. Cocoanut Bread Pudding. To the foundation pudding formula add haK a cup of cocoanut, either freshly grated or desiccated, then proceed as in the plain bread pudding. Butterscotch Pudding. Substitute brown sugar for the granulated in the plain bread pudding, and add it to the butter ; cook over the fire till it reaches the butterscotch stage, then add to the scalded milk. The brown sugar may cause the milk to curdle slightly, J76 Caramel Bread Pudding Dresden Pudding Baked Apples HOT DESSERTS but when the pudding is finished, it will be quite as fine and smooth as when granulated sugar is used. Maple Pudding. Substitute a cup of maple syrup for the granulated sugar in the formula for plain bread pudding. Fruit Bread Pudding. Add a cup of seeded and shghtly chopped raisins to the plain bread pudding, and flavor with one fourth teaspoon of mace and one fourth teaspoon of cinnamon. If any one of the foregoing puddings is desired especially good, it may be topped with a meringue. In this case, use only the yolks of the eggs in making the pudding and reserve the whites for the meringue. Meringue There are principles which guide the making of a successful meringue, just as there are in making puddings or in any other branch of cookery. A well-made meringue is a light and airy bit of dainti- ness which adds grace to any dessert, but a poor, tough meringue is merely a waste of good ma- terials. Three basic rules underlie the making of a good meringue : Beat the egg whites sufficiently. Add a sufficient quantity of sugar to them. Brown in an exceedingly slow oven. If these principles are heeded, we will have no more poor meringues. For the bread puddings make the meringues as follows : 2 egg whites 6 tablespoons granulated Flavoring sugar 177 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Beat the whites of the eggs until the bowl can be inverted without fear of their sUpping from it, then add three tablespoons of granulated sugar (never powdered for a meringue), and beat again until the mixture will hold its shape. Now add the rest of the sugar and the flavoring and beat hghtly. Spread over the pudding and place in a very moder- ate oven. Brown delicately. The meringue should not begin to color for five minutes and should not be sufficiently cooked for eight minutes. A me- ringue may be varied by the addition of two tea- spoons of grated chocolate melted over the hot water. This is very nice for a chocolate, cocoanut, or plain pudding. The caramel or the chocolate bread pudding may also be varied by spreading halved marshmallows over the surface, then returning the pudding to the oven for a few moments to brown delicately. Rice Pudding (Caramel Fig Fruit French Rice Pudding { Chocolate A good rice pudding is always popular, whether it be plain or elaborate, and one of the most often served, but perhaps the least often well made, is the simple pudding which is known as Poor Man's Pudding. It is not difiicult to make, but there are certain principles which must be remembered to attain success. ' 178 HOT DESSERTS Use only fresh milk. Never add salt till pudding is nearly finished. If fruit is used, add toward the end of the baking. Always bake very slowly. Curdled rice puddings should be the exception, but they are too often the rule. The reasons for this are because the milk is not fresh enough, or salt, fruit, or sugar is added at the beginning of the bak- ing, or the oven has been too hot. A deUcate pudding in which the rice has cooked to a cream demands a slow oven, nailk that is no older than a day, and no salt, flavoring, or fruit added until it is almost finished. Poor Man's Pudding 4 cups milk i teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons rioe ■ | cup sugar Flavoring Wash the rice thoroughly in several waters, then drain it well. Place in a buttered pudding dish and pour in the milk. Put to bake in a very moderate oven, bake very slowly for two hours, stirring every twenty minutes, then add the sugar, salt, and flavoring, and continue baking for an hour. Do not stir after these ingredients are added, but let the pudding become a deUcate brown. Caramel Rice Pudding. Make the Poor Man's Pudding as usual, but flavor it with a tablespoon of sugar melted over a hot fixe to a bright golden brown. Pour half a cup of cold milk over the caramel and stir till well dissolved, then add to 179 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK the pudding with the sugar and salt. Remember the caramel does not sweeten but merely flavors the pudding. Fig Pudding. Add a cup of chopped figs to the Poor Man's Pudding when stirring it for the last time. Finish as usual. Fruit Pudding. Add a cup of chopped raisins to the Poor Man's Pudding as in fig pudding. French Rice Pudding. There is another form of rice pudding which is also very good; it is richer than the first as it contains eggs and butter. In this form, cold boiled rice left from a previous meal may be utiUzed, or the rice may be especially cooked for the pudding. The French rice pudding which is described shortly is one of the most dehcious rice dishes that one could wish. French Rice Pudding J cup rice 2 eggs 1 pint milk and water ^ cup sugar mixed I cup additional milk I teaspoon salt Juice and grated rind 1 large tablespoon butter of 1 lemon Boil the rice, well washed, in a pint of milk and water mixed, or if cold rice is used, cover with milk, bring to the boiUng point, and simmer. When the rice has cooked to the soft, jellyUke stage, add half a teaspoon of salt, a little more Uquid if necessary, and a large tablespoon of butter. Beat well and cool. Beat two eggs to a creamy froth and add to the rice, also half a cup of milk, half a cup of sugar, 180 HOT DESSERTS and the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Pour into a greased pudding dish and bake slowly for forty-five minutes. Spread the pudding with melted butter and cover thickly with powdered sugar. Return to the oven to glaze. French Rice Chocolate Pudding. Make the pud- ding by the foregoing formula, omitting the lemon and adding one square of unsweetened chocolate. Tapioca Pudding Tapioca I*udding f Fruit Custard Tapioca Meringue Tapioca Cocoanut Pudding A third thickening agent which is often employed in making puddings is tapioca. This product is obtained from the roots of the cassava plant and is extremely nourishing and digestible. It is usually combined with eggs, milk, or fruit, which add to its value as a food product. In preparing it, the follow- ing principles must be observed : Soak the tapioca in cold water. Cook in boiling water tUl clear. Combine with other ingredients as preferred. There is a quickly prepared tapioca on the market which is used by many housewives. The puddings described here, however, are made of the variety which requires soaking in cold water. Tapioca may be obtained in either the flake or the pearl form, as one prefers. In preparing it, the same rule will answer for either variety. 181 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Tapioca Fruit Pudding 1 oup tapioca i teaspoon salt Cold water I cup sugar 3 cups boiling water Fruit Soak the tapioca in cold water till tender, then drain, and add to the boiling water, and cook till clear. Add the salt and mix well. Core and pare six apples and arrange in a buttered pudding dish, fill the cavities with the sugar, and sprinkle with nutmeg if desired. Pour the tapioca over the apples and bake in a moderate oven till the apples are tender. Serve with cream or with pudding sauce. Peaches, quinces, strawberries, blackberries, rasp- berries, or cherries may be substituted for the apples in this pudding. When using small fruits, place them in the dish in alternate layers with the tapioca. Then proceed as in the apple tapioca. Canned peaches are very good used in this way. Tapioca Custard Pudding 1 cup tapioca J cup sugar 3 cups milk | teaspoon salt 2 eggs 1 tablespoon butter Flavoring Soak the tapioca as in the previous recipe, then drain, and cover with boiling water. Cook till clear, and add the milk, which has been brought to the boiling point. Continue cooking for three minutes. Beat the eggs with the sugar and salt and add to the hot mixture; stir the butter in also and the 182 HOT DESSERTS flavoring. Pour into a buttered baking dish and bake half an hour. Serve with or without cream or sauce. Tapioca Meringue. Make the pudding as in foregoing recipe, omitting the whites of the eggs. Flavor with a tablespoon of lemon juice and the grated rind of half a lemon. When baked, spread with a meringue made as previously described. Flavor with lemon juice and spread over the pud- ding. Brown deUcately in a slow oven. Tapioca Cocoanut Pudding. Make the tapioca custard and, just before pouring it into the baking dish, add a cup of grated or desiccated cocoanut. Finish as in tapioca meringue. Boiled and Steamed Puddings Suet Boiled and Steamed Puddings Indian , Batter fKg I Plum Peach Chocolate Blackberry Apple Cherry, etc. Any pudding which is to be cooked by boihng may be steamed as well, if that method is preferred. A steamed pudding is apt to be more light and di- gestible than one which is immersed in the boihng water unless the principles which govern this type of cookery are closely followed. There is only one principle which must be remembered in making 183 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK boiled and steamed puddings, but this is a most im- portant one : Never allow the water to cease boiling during the cooking of a pudding of this type. This is the whole secret of success in making hght, digestible boiled or steamed desserts. The moment the water ceases to boil, the pudding will become heavy and indigestible. This is the reason that so many persons shun a boiled pudding. Prop- erly made it should be puffy, Ught, and delicate. In the chapter on doughs, I explained the making of roly-poly puddings. The puddings which will be described in this department, while also having flour as a thickening agent, will be made on a dif- ferent plan. Steamed Pudding i cup butter 2 teaspoons baking 1 cup sugar powder 3 eggs i cup milk 3 cups flour Flavoring Cream the butter and sugar and add the eggs well beaten. Mix and sift together the flour, salt, and baking powder, and add alternately with the milk to the first mixture. Flavor and turn into a but- tered mold, cover closely, and stand the mold in a kettle of boiling water. Steam three hours, then turn from the mold and serve with any desired sauce. If it is desired to boil this pudding, place the batter in a well-greased pudding cloth, tie tightly, leaving room for the pudding to expand, and plunge into 184 HOT DESSERTS rapidly boiling water. Boil without ceasing for an hour and a half. If necessary, replenish the water, but use only that which is actually boiUng. Steamed Blueberry Pudding. Add one and a half cups of blueberries to the plain steamed pudding and proceed as directed. Steamed Cranberry Pudding. Substitute cran- berries for the blueberries. Steamed Peach Pudding. Substitute two cups of pared and shced peaches for the other fruit. Raisins, currants, chopped apples, blackberries, etc., may be used instead of any of the other fruits. Steamed Chocolate Pudding. Melt a square of chocolate over hot water and add to the plain steamed pudding, then proceed as in the first formula. Suet Puddings. Suet puddings include the rich plum pudding, the tasty molasses pudding, fig pud- ding, and various others which are very substantial and more suitable for cold weather than for summer. They are perfectly wholesome if made carefully and cooked according to principle. Plain Suet Pudding 1 cup suet finely chopped 1 teaspoon soda 1 cup molasses 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup milk Spioes to taste 3 cups white or whole-wheat flour Mix the dry ingredients together and chop the suet very fine, adding a Uttle flour if it sticks to the knife. Add the molasses and milk to the suet, and 185 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK flavor with half a teaspoon each of ginger and nut- meg and a teaspoon of cinnamon, or with any other combination of spices preferred. Combine the mix- tures and pour into a well-greased mold. Steam for three hours, tl\pn turn out and serve with any preferred sauce. This pudding may be boiled by following the directions previously given. Steamed Fruit Pudding. Make the plain suet pudding and add to the batter a cup each of chopped raisins and cleaned currants. Steamed Fig Pudding. Make the suet pudding, omitting the molasses and adding an additional half cup of milk, half a cup of sugar, and a cup and a half of figs chopped fine. Plum Pudding. A plum pudding is only a richer form of the suet pudding described as plain suet pudding. To the formula for that dessert add a cup of raisins seeded and chopped, a cup of cleaned currants, half a cup of candied citron sUced very thin and cut in small pieces, and half a cup of English walnut meats coarsely chopped. Steam in a but- tered mold five hours, or place in a well-buttered and floured pudding cloth, tie closely, but leaving enough space for the pudding to expand, and boil steadily for foiir hours. Keep the pudding immersed in the boiling water for the entire time of its cooking. 186 CHAPTER XIV SOUFFLES While the souffle is regarded generally as a des- sert, it is also used as an entree or a savory dish for luncheon or dinner. Its foundation is invariably a form of the thick white sauce described in Chapter VI. When the souffle is to be served as a dessert, sugar, eggs, and whatever flavor is preferred are added to the sauce, and the souffle is baked in a moderately hot oven. A successful souffle should be Ught, spongy, and fine-grained, and must be served as soon as it is taken from the oven. The flavor may be coffee, chocolate, fruit juice or pulp, cocoanut, or whatever seems especially suitable for the demands of the occasion. Plain Souffle 2 tablespoons butter 3 eggs 2 tablespoons flour i cup sugar 1 cup milk i teaspoon salt Melt the butter and flour together over the fire, as in making white sauce, and, when bubbling, add the cold milk. Cook gently till thick and smooth. 187 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Then remove from the fire and add the sugar, salt, and the yolks of eggs beaten until light. Fold in the stiffly whipped whites of the eggs and pour into a buttered baking dish or into ramekins or custard cups. Place in a pan of hot water and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. If baked in ramekins, the souffl6 will require but twenty-five minutes' baking. Coffee Souffl6. Substitute a cup of clear strong coffee for the milk in the formula for plain souffle and proceed in the same manner. Chocolate Souffle. To the plain souffle add two ounces of unsweetened chocolate grated and melted over hot water. Fruit Souffle. Mash a cup of strawberries, rasp- berries, peaches, or other fruit and press through a sieve. Add the pulp to the plain souffl6, making the white sauce slightly thicker if the fruit is un- usually juicy. Finish as in other souffles. Pudding Sauces f Nun's Butter I naxa oauce Pudding Sauces f Hard Sauce I j^^g^^^^ [Liquid Sauce Lemon Sauce: Foamy Sauce Cream Sauce : Fruit Sauce Yellow Sauce Chocolate Sauce For all practical piu-poses, the fist of pudding sauces contained in this outline comprises all that will be required by any housewife. Each of the 188 SOUFFLES sauces designated above may be varied to suit the occasion and all are extremely good without any additions or changes. The hard sauce is useful for serving on all hot puddings ; it is very good when served quite plain or it may be transformed into nun's butter or a delicious fruit sauce very easily. The basic prin- ciples which must be kept in mind in making a satisfactory hard sauce are : Cream butter •well ; Add powdered sugar ; Beat vigorously ; Add flavor. The butter should be washed if very salty, as it is apt to curdle the sauce when the flavoring is added, if the latter be fruit. Cream the butter alone until soft and light, then add the Sugar, a little at a time, and continue creaming till thoroughly blended and fluffy. Flavoring may be varied as desired. The following formula, with variations, will answer for plain hard sauce, nun's butter, and fruit sauce. Plain Hard Sauce J cup butter i teaspoon vanilla 1 cup powdered sugar Nun's Butter. Make the plain hard sauce and beat into it the well-whipped white of one egg. Flavor with sherry, orange, or lemon. 189 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Fruit Sauce. Cream the butter and sugar as usual, and add half a cup of crushed strawberries, raspberries, or peaches. Blend together thoroughly, then add the stiffly beaten white of one egg. Liquid Sauces Of the liquid sauces the lemon is the most fa- miUar. It is an easily made sauce and very good with almost any of the boiled or steamed puddings. Lemon Sauce } cup sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juioe 2 teaspoons cornstarch Few grains mace or nutmeg 1 cup boiling water Few grains of salt 1 tablespoon butter Mix together the sugar, cornstarch, and salt, and pour the boiling water over the mixture. Stir constantly over hot water till well blended and thick. Cook long enough to remove the raw taste, then add butter, mace, and lemon juice. Serve at once. Foamy Sauce. Foamy sauce is built upon the lemon sauce foundation ; the lemon may be omitted and any preferred flavor added. Fresh fruit juice or the juice from canned fruit is very good. Make the sauce as directed, but just before removing from the fire, add the well-whipped yolk of an egg. Beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth ai^d pour the hot sauce over it, beating all the time. Stand over hot water for a few minutes and whip well. Serve at once. 190 SOUFFLES Cream Sauce is used on cold puddings and is made in a different manner from the other sauces. Cream Sauce 1 cup cream J cup powdered sugar Flavoring Whip the cream to a stiff froth, using the egg beater, then add the sugar and flavoring. Whip again and place on ice till required. Fruit Sauce is a variation of the cream sauce. Add the juice of strawberries, raspberries, or any- preferred fruit to the sauce in such proportions as desired. Add more sugar also, as necessary. Yellow Sauce 1 egg I cup powdered sugar Flavoring This is a dehcious sauce with blancmanges and other cold puddings. It is also good with vanilla ice cream. Beat the yolk of the egg to a light froth and add the sugar. Beat with the egg beater till thick and light colored. Then whip the white of the egg stiff and add to the mixture ; beat till light and foamy. Sherry is a very acceptable flavor for this sauce, but fruit juices or vanilla may be sub- stituted. Chocolate Sauce This sauce is especially designed for serving on vanilla ice cream. It is also very good on cold puddings of various kinds. 191 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK 1 cup water Vanilla i oup sugar 1 teaspoon cornstarch 6 tablespoons grated J cup cold water chocolate Pinch of salt Boil the water with the sugar five minutes. Add the cold water to the cornstarch and chocolate and mix to a paste. Add to the boiling syrup with the salt. Cook for three minutes. Flavor with vanilla and serve hot. 192 PART II PROCESSES PROCESSES In the foregoing pages of this book I have endeav- ored to show how cookery may be more easily com- prehended and simphfied by dividing it into classes, and after explaining the foundation formula or principles upon which the various dishes are built, to teach the housewife how to prepare all of the food products which she may desire to undertake, by using these basic recipes or principles and building her finished products upon them. In the second part of the volume, the processes of food preparation will be treated. Cookery of all sorts is divided into but four classes : boiling, roasting, baking, and frying; and no matter how comphcated or mysterious the finished product may appear, we may be sure that in its preparation one or more of these forms of cookery have been used. But to boil, roast, bake, or fry successfully requires a knowledge of the subject, intelligence, and expe- rience, and it is my purpose to present these methods to the reader as clearly and fully as possible, so that she will find it a simple matter to prepare in an appetizing, wholesome manner under all conditions the foods which she has pm-chased. 195 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK The conservation of fruits and vegetables will also be discussed, and simple methods of putting away a stock of canned vegetables and fruits, pre- serves, and jellies will be described in detail. The proper methods of combining materials in the making of all of the dishes described in this and other books on cookery will be explained, also various wa,ys of beautifying finished dishes by means of garnishings and decorations. 196 CHAPTER XV PROCESSES Boiling Simmering Stewing Braising Steaming In the earliest times, when man, in the first pro- cess of civiUzation, began to prepare his food by the application of heat, instead of devouring it raw as did the lower animals, he invented a method of cooking it in water, producing a sort of rude broth, which he found both acceptable and nourish- ing. This method consisted in forming a rough and ungainly utensil from the skin of the animal to be cooked, placing its flesh, cut in pieces, in the vessel, and filhng the latter with water. As it would not have been practicable to have placed this soup kettle over the fire, primitive man contrived to cook his broth by means of large stones, which he heated in his fire and then placed in the kettle. This process was repeated until the broth was cooked to his satisfaction. Then he ate it, unseasoned and unflavored, except for the sand and grit and leaves which probably found their way into his soup kettle. 197 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK It is a far cry from the soup kettle and boiled meats of our prehistoric ancestors to the nourish- ing, stimulating broths, stews, and braised meats of to-day, but the method of cookery which origi- nated with the cave man is the method which is most in use in our modem kitchens. BoiUng in one of its forms is used more extensively than any other means in the preparation of meats, vege- tables, fish, eggs, beverages, and many desserts. Although this form of cookery is so old and presumably so simple a process, it is not so clearly comprehended as it should be. The time-honored joke about the housewife who could not boil water without burning it has more foimdation than one might believe. To boil water or any article of food that is cooked by simmering, stewing, steaming, or braising requires a careful attention to detail, as well as an intelligent understanding of the condi- tions and principles necessary to the success of the undertaking. The housewife must possess a thorough under- standing of the difference between boiling and simmering, for many a dish has been made almost unfit to eat because of ignorance on this subject. The heat must be properly regulated, the saucepan clean, possessing a tightly fitting lid, and large enough to permit the articles in the process of cookery to expand as they should. When the vessel containing cold water is placed over the fire, bubbles will be noticed forming on the ,198 PROCESSES bottom almost as soon as the heat reaches the water. As the heat increases, they will become larger, and soon these bubbles, which are filled with an invis- ible gas produced by the action of the heat, will begin to travel upward through the water. When they reach the surface and the cool air strikes them, they will burst and the gas escape into the outer air. This bubbling is not what is imderstood by boiling; it is merely simmering, and if you should take the temperature of the water at this stage, you would find the thermometer would register 185° F. The heat must increase to 212° F. before the water actually boils. But when this point is reached, the water will become no hotter, no matter how the heat under the saucepan is augmented and how rapidly and madly the water bubbles. The tem- peratm-e of boiling water is always 212° F. ; there- fore, the meat or vegetable which the saucepan contains will cook no faster nor become any more tender, however great the amount of heat given it. If this principle of boiling is thoroughly compre- hended, the housewife will realize that to keep the gas jet turned on to the full extent, or allow the drafts of her coal range to remain open after the water has reached the boiling point is little short of criminal waste. Besides, many products are ruined by too rapid boiling. Boiling comprises also simmering, stewing, brais- ing, and steaming, each of which methods is distinct 199 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK and separate, and all are equally useful in the prep- aration of food products. Simmering, which is the method least understood, is at the same time one of the most important for the housewife to comprehend clearly. It is a gentle, gradual, imiform heating of the Uquid, which should almost but never quite reach the boihng point. To use an old saying, " the pot should smile, not laugh." If a boiling thermometer is used in cookery, it should register 185° F., no more. As soon as the mercury begins to travel above that mark, the Uquid will begin to boil, and the result which is desired will not be attained. Soups, corned beef, coarse-fibered meats, dehcate vegetables such as peas and lima beans, should always be simmered, never boUed. Stewing is merely another form of simmering, with the exception that when it is employed, but a small quantity of Uquid is used. Meats cooked by this method yield all of their juices and gelatines, and the gravy is rich and nourishing. Braising is another form of stewing, and a more delicate one. Braised meat is given but a very Uttle Uquid, and is usually surromided with vegetables and herbs, cooked a long time, and highly seasoned. Steaming is cooking over, and not in, boiling water. In this method of cookery the water must be kept actually boiUng for the entire length of time required for cooking the article. If boiling ceases even for a few moments, a soggy result is almost inevitable. 200 PROCESSES . In cooking meats by the boiling process the fol- lowing principles must be observed: Sear the meat by plunging it into boiling water. Bring rapidly to the boiling point. Boil three minutes. Reduce heat and simmer till tender. These principles underlie the cooking of all meats, poultry, and fish which are to be prepared by boiling. If the article is to be served cold, as chicken, tongue, ham, or corned beef, it should be allowed to cool in the liquid. Then drain well, and shce thin. If the meat has been prepared to serve hot, take it at once from the liquid and serve with any pre- ferred sauce. The hquid should be reserved for soup making. Sometimes it is a very good plan when cooking beef, veal, or mutton by boiUng to add to the water a smaU onion, one medium-sized carrot, a small piece of bay leaf, a few celery seeds, and one or two cloves. Do not add salt until the meat is partially cooked, for the salt will draw out the juices, as was explained in the chapter on meats. The seasonings wiU impart flavor to the meat, and win also improve the broth. Other seasonings may be used as preferred. A tablespoon of walnut catsup, a green pepper cut in pieces, a few green celery leaves, or a sprig or two of parsley will be excellent. As to the proper accessory sauces for boiled meats, poultry, and fish, here are a few suggestions : 201 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Boiled Beef — Horseradish, drawn-butter, parsley, or white sauce. Boiled Mutton — Caper sauce, parsley sauce, celery sauce. Boiled Fish — Parsley, egg, or HoUandaise sauce. Boiled Fowl — Drawn-butter, parsley, creole, egg, or Chan- tiUy sauce. In cooking cereals, the water must always be rapidly boiling when the grains are put into it. This is a fixed rule which must not be overlooked. The greater part of all grains is starch, and each particle of starch is inclosed in a wall of cellulose, which must be broken down quickly so that the starch may be cooked without first soaking and becoming soggy. By exposing the grain to water heated to 212° F. the best results are gained. These few principles control the cooking of all cereals : Rapidly boiling water ; Salt added to water ; Cereal sifted slowly into water. The salt is added to the water before the cereal, as this method improves the flavor; one teaspoon to a pint of water is the proper proportion. The cereal is poured into the water slowly in order that the temperature of the water may not be percep- tibly lowered by the cold grain. All grain food should be thoroughly cooked, but it is not neces- sary, except in the case of rice, macaroni, and spa- ghetti, to cook them rapidly for the required length of time. After the boiling has been well established, they may be finished in the double boiler or in the fireless cooker. 202 PROCESSES Rice, macaroni, and spaghetti should be boiled very rapidly, in order that the grains and pieces be kept separate and distinct. When the cooking is finished, these products should be rinsed with cold water to remove starchy particles and prevent them from being pasty, then bQiling water should be poured over them to reheat them. By following this method, every grain will stand out separately, white and distinct. In preparing dried fruits or vegetables for the table, cold water is used, for the reason that these products, having been deprived of all their natural moisture, must be suppUed with an adequate amount to make them wholesome and digestible. All dried fruits and vegetables should be washed and examined carefully. They should then be soaked for several hours in cold fresh water. Beans, peas, and some other very hard products will require to be soaked from ten to twelve hours, fruits but three or four hours. When well expanded, they should be placed over the fire in the water in which they were soaked, and brought slowly to the boiling point, then simmered till tender; sugar should be added to fruits during the last fifteen minutes of boiUng. Eggs require careful treatment in boiling, or they will prove indigestible and unwholesome. The common custom of placing them in boiling water and cooking them from three to five minutes is wrong, because the delicate albumen will begin to 203 ^^ CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK cook the moment the heat strikes the shell, and by the time the yolk has cooked sufficiently, the white of the egg will be hard and tough. To properly boil them, they should be placed in a saucepan of cold water over the fire and allowed to come only to the boiling point. The saucepan should then be placed on a cool part of the range for two minutes, then the eggs will be soft and jelly- like throughout and perfectly digestible, even for an invalid or a very young child. If liked harder, they may remain in the hot water for a longer time. But they must not boil at any time. Coffee and tea are often spoiled by the maimer in which they are made. CofEee, if it is not made in a percolator, should be finely ground, but not pulverized. It should be measured and a level tablespoonful allowed for each cup of water. Pour the cold water over the coffee and bring rapidly to the boiling point; as soon as the liquid boils, remove it to a cool part of the range, allow it to stand for a moment, then add one fourth of a cup of cold water to clear it ; let it stand again for a short period before serving. Al- ways serve ptu-e cream with coffee if you wish it to be deUcate and aromatic. Tea should never be boiled. Scald the teapot and measure into it one teaspoon of tea for each person to be served. Be sure that the water is fresh and freshly boiling. Water that has boiled some minutes, or boiled and cooled and boiled again, 204 PROCESSES is flat and tasteless. Pour the boiling water over the tea and allow it to stand in a warm place for three to five minutes. Lemon slices or cream should accompany tea. Stewing. When stewing meats, the searing of the surface may be accomplished either by plunging the meat into boiling water, or by browning it on all sides in a very Uttle drippings. For a rich brown stew, the latter method is advisable, but as it is more troublesome, the first is frequently used. If the meat is seared by plunging it into boiling water, the amount of water should be only sufii- cient to cover it, and as soon as the surface pores have been sealed by contact with the boiling water, the heat should be lowered, or the saucepan moved to a cooler part of the range where the water will merely simmer. Rapid boiling of meats will not make them ten- der, even though the connecting tissue between the fibers be reduced to rags ; the fibers themselves will still remain tough and stringy. Simmering pro- duces a tender, juicy, richly flavored piece of meat that will be eaten with zest by all who partake of it. Chicken which is abnormally tough will yield to this method of cookery very successfully. Corned beef, smoked tongue, boiling pieces, and stews of veal, mutton, lamb, or beef will be very appetizing when so prepared, and flavored with various herbs and vegetables. This method is especially recom- 205 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK mended in the preparation of fish, which would become broken and imsightly if allowed to boil. Braising is a more elaborate method of stewing and even less water is used when it is employed. The meat is usually browned first, and various vege- tables are added in the process of cooking it. Some- times no water at all is used, but a small quantity of vinegar is substituted. This has the effect of making the meat even more tender. Braised Beef or Pot Roast. The flank of beef is excellent for cooking in this way. Remove the skin and some of the fat from the flank, and put these in the oven to render out the fat, covering them with a little water during the process. Sprinkle the beef with two teaspoons of salt, one fourth tea- spoon of pepper, and a liberal dash of paprika, a tablespoon of finely chopped parsley, and a pinch of thyme or summer savory. Roll up tightly and tie with a string. Dredge the meat with flour and brown it in a little of the fat, then place in a heavy saucepan with a wine glass of vinegar and two cloves. Cover closely and place over the hot part of the range. When the outer surface of the meat seems well seared, reduce the heat and cook very slowly for two hours. Add no water. Then place a sliced carrot and half an onion in the kettle with the meat, also half a pint of boiling water and a tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, catsup, or any preferred sauce. Simmer slowly for t)ro hours longer, then take up on a hot platter, remove the 206 PROCESSES strings, and strain the gravy about the meat after skimming the fat from it . During the cooking a little more water may be added if necessary, and if the gravy is not thick enough, it may be made so by the addition of a tablespoon of flour blended with a tablespoon of water. Any preferred cut of veal, mutton, or lamb may be cooked in this manner. Braised Roast. A piece of round of beef weigh- ing from three to four pounds may be used for this dish ; pork, veal, lamb, mutton, chicken, or duck may be cooked by the same method. In a heavy saucepan place a large onion, carrot, and turnip, all sUced, also a sprig of parsley, and a small piece of bay leaf. Lay a thin layer of fat salt pork over these, then the meat, duck, or chicken neatly tied in position. Cover with thin layers of pork, pour a cup of boiling water in the kettle, and place a tightly fitting lid on the saucepan. If the lid does not fit as closely as it should, cover it with a weight, for the steam must not escape. Place over the fire where it will just simmer for an hour, then add seasonings and simmer for an hour and a half, or until tender. Take up on a platter and place the vegetables about the meat. This dish may be pre- pared in the casserole in the oven if preferred. Braised Round Steak with Italian Spaghetti. Cut a poimd of round steak into cubes and dip each in flour, then sear all over in hot drippings and place in a heavy saucepan. Cover with the juice from a can of tomatoes or from a quart of 207 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK fresh tomatoes, add one large onion sliced, two green peppers cut in small pieces and freed from their seeds, a teaspoon of salt, one fourth a teaspoon of pepper, and a sprinkling of paprika. Cover the saucepan and simmer for two hours. Then add a cup of oUve oil and continue simmering till the sauce is quite thick. Meantime, put a pound of long spaghetti to cook in rapidly boiUng water and cook quickly till tender. This will require about twenty minutes. Add salt during the last ten minutes of cooking. Drain and rinse with cold water, then pour boiling water through the spaghetti to reheat it. Place the spaghetti on a large platter in layers with grated cheese. Pour some of the sauce over the spaghetti and pile the rest with the meat in the center of the platter. When finished, sprinkle thickly with Parmesan cheese. Serve very hot. Mushrooms may be added to this dish if desired. They should be added to the saucepan with the meat during the last half hour of cooking. Steaming is an excellent method to use ia cooking delicate vegetables. The articles to be cooked are washed and placed in a perforated steamer over rapii^y boiling water, which is never allowed to cease boiling until the process is finished. New potatoes, asparagus, peas, lima beans, and all such vegetables as are liable to break or go to pieces in cooking are improved by steaming. As this pro- cess requires a longer time than boiUng, one should allow one fourth more than the period necessary. 208 PROCESSES Brown bread, batter puddings, and cereals are steamed by placing the receptacles containing them in rapidly boiling water. Dumplings are steamed by placing them on a plate in the steamer, over fast boiling water. Boston Brown Bread. Mix together and sift one cup each of rye meal, corn meal, and whole-wheat or graham flour, one teaspoon of soda, and a tea- spoon of salt. Add two cups of sour milk to three fourths cup of molasses and combine the mixtures. Turn into a buttered mold and place the cover on tightly. Place the mold in a kettle of rapidly boil- ing water, cover and steam three hours, then place the mold in a moderate oven for half an hour. Steamed Fruit Pudding. Cream together one fourth of a cup of butter and one fourth of a cup of sugar. Sift together one and one half cups of flour and two teaspoons of baking powder, add alter- nately with half a cup of milk to the butter and sugar. Then add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs and a cup of raisins, strawberries, cherries, or any preferred fruit; finally beat in the stiffly whipped whites of the eggs and pour into a buttered pudding mold. Steam in the same manner as describe 1 in the foregoing recipe for an hom- and a half. 209 CHAPTER XVI ROASTING r Broiling «-tiug tea [ Parching Roasting is the most elemental of all fonns of cookery. It is a survival of that earhest of all methods of burying meats or herbs in the hot sand or in hot ashes until they were seared on all surfaces. This primitive manner of cookery is still observed in camps, and many a delicious dish of freshly caught fish, game, roast potatoes, or corn is prepared in the ashes of the camp fire. Later, when kitchens and fireplaces came into fashion, the housewife roasted her meats by suspend- ing them before the blaze of the open fire, placing a pan beneath them to catch the juices, with which she frequently basted the smoking joints. In these days of gas and coal ranges we no longer utiUze the open fire for preparing meats, but place them either in the well-heated oven to roast, or we broil our steaks or chops by means of the coals or gas flame — for broiUng is but another form of roasting as it was originally imderstood. Toasting is still another 210 ROASTING form of roasting, and planking and parching are also included in the same class. By observing the follow- ing principles, any piece of meat may be successfully roasted : Hot oven ; Meat placed in oven without water ; BoUing water added after surface searing is complete ; Frequent basting. Roasting by means of the oven is quite as satis- factory a means of cooking meats as the open fire, when the oven is well constructed and well ven- tilated. For successful roasting, the oven should be hotter than for bread baking. If a thermometer be used, the mercury should point to 450° or 500° F. The meat shoiild be well wiped with a damp cloth, sprinkled with a Uttle flour, placed on a rack in a dripping pan, and put into the oven; without season- ing. In fifteen minutes, when the surface of the meat is well seared, the heat of the oven should be lowered, and the cooking continued. One cupful of boiUng water may be placed in the pan after the meat has been roasting half an hour, to mingle with the fat and to be used in basting the meat every fifteen minutes. Basting is very necessary in roasting, as it prevents the meat from becoming dry. It is not always necessary to have an expensive piece of meat for roasting, as some of the cheaper cuts, if properly prepared, may also be cooked by this method. If one of the tough, coarse, but juicy portions is selected, it should be finely chopped, 211 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK made into a loaf with suitable flavors, and roasted in the same manner as a finer cut. Italian Beef Loaf is excellent. Chop together or run through a food chopper a pound of beef cut from one of the coarser sections and half a pound of fresh lean pork. Add one finely chopped green pepper, a teaspoon of salt, one fourth of a teaspoon of pepper, and paprika to taste. Beat one egg and mix with the meat and flavorings, then add a cup of soft bread crumbs. Make into a loaf and place strips of bacon across the top. Place in a greased dripping pan and pour two cups of strained tomato juice about the meat, add a small onion sliced, and a very small piece of bay leaf ; also one fourth of a teaspoon of salt and a spriukling of pepper. Roast the loaf in a hot oven for forty minutes. Then remove to a hot platter and strain the gravy around it. Broiling is but another form of roasting, or perhaps one should say that roasting is a form of broiling, for they are very similar in their results. But while roasting is the form of cookery usually selected for the preparation of large pieces of meat, broiling is preferable for those cuts having a broad flat surface, such as steaks, or for such smaller cuts of meats as chops or cutlets; fish and chicken are often cooked in this manner also, especially when they are tender and delicate. As in roasting the object is to coagulate the albumen on the sm-face of the meat as quickly as possible and prevent the juices from escaping, so it 212 ROASTING is in broiling. The pores must be sealed speedily, and all of the flavor and rich juices imprisoned in the meat. In those kitchens which are equipped with gas ranges, the broiUng is accompUshed under the flame of the broiling oven. If a coal range is used, the meat is placed on the hot broiler and held over the red coals. To successfully broil meat, fish, or chicken, the following principles must be observed : Heat the broiler thoroughly before placing the meat upon it. Rub bars of broiler ■with a bit of fat or suet. Cook quickly, turning often. As the pores of the meat are to be quickly seared, it is necessary to heat the broiler very thoroughly before placing the meat, chicken, or fish upon it. The flesh of the article to be broiled would stick to the hot bars so that it is always well to prepare them by rubbing with a bit of suet or fat. If the coal fire is used, it must be clea:r, bright, and hot. If the gas oven is the medium, place the broiler about two inches from the flame at the beginning of the broiling process, and turn the meat until i it is thoroughly seared on both sides. Then the broiler may be placed five inches from the flame to finish the cooking. Turn the meat on a hot platter on which you have placed a piece of butter and a Uttle salt and pepper. Baste with this butter or turn the meat in it once or twice, then serve hot. Broiled chicken or steak may be garnished with 213 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK water cress or parsley, broiled fish with parsley or lemon slices. Fish or chicken should be split down the back, opened, and spread quite flat before broiUng. Planking may be regarded in the same class with broiling, as the articles which are most often cooked in this manner are usually broiled on one side first, then finished on the plank. In selecting a plank it is always best to choose one of oak, as they are heavy and durable. Then too the tang of the wood adds greatly to the delightful flavor of the fish, meat, chicken, or vegetable which is to be prepared on it. Planked Fish. Shad, whitefish, or any of the large fish may be prepared in this way. Clean the fish, split it down the back and spread it open, quite flat. Place it skin side down in a hot buttered drip- ping pan under the gas flame or in a very hot oven. Meantime, heat the plank very hot and rub it with a little fat or butter. When the fish has broiled till well seared, turn it skin side up on the hot plank. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and brush over with melted butter. If a large fish, cook thirty minutes in a hot oven. Then make a border of mashed potatoes, forced through the pastry tube, about the fish ; stufifed tomatoes or peppers may also be placed at intervals on the plank. Return the plank to the oven or place it under the flame of the broiUng oven until the potatoes are brown. Serve the fish on the plank. Chicken and beefsteak are planked in the same manner. 214 CoiiTtesy of "Good Housekeeping" Placin(j Sthak (jn Broiler ^fCT l^'^ c^^ -,.-•-. ,, ^ ^^3 S-4 M g j^^ m r# 1 j^jfvs. S Courtesy of "Good Housekeeping" Planked Steak with Potato Border ROASTING Planked Steak is a good dish. Purchase a sirloin steak and broil on a hot greased broiler on one side only. Then turn on to a hot buttered plank and return to the broiler or to a very hot oven and cook for seven minutes. Border with mashed potatoes beaten with the yolk of one egg, and place turnips cut hke cups and boiled till tender then filled with peas, about the potatoes. Stuffed onions or peppers may be served with this dish in place of the turnips. Return to the oven to brown. Serve on the plank. Toasting and Parching are forms of roasting also. Toasting resembles broiling, as the article to be pre- pared is placed under the gas flame or over the hot coals. Parching is done in the oven, and is a method often employed to dry bread, corn, or herbs. Bread to be toasted should be at least twenty-four hours old. Cut it in one fourth inch slices and remove the crusts very neatly. These thin crusts are very nice parched in a slow oven and served with tea or cocoa. Toast the bread slices over a clear hot fixe or under the gas flame until they slowly take on a deep golden color. Serve dry or spread with butter as desired. Cinnamon Toast. Toast the bread as described, taking care that it does not brown before it is dry, or it will not be wholesome. Spread with melted butter and sprinkle thickly with granulated sugar mixed with powdered cinnamon. Place in a hot oven for a moment before serving. 215 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Parched Bread for Garnishing. Cut the bi-ead in slices half an inch thick, then with a sharp fchife cut in cubes, diamonds, squares, or oblong piece^. Place on a tin plate in a very moderate oven and allow them to remain until a golden brown. 216 CHAPTER XVII BAKING Although modern housewives use the ovens of the coal or gas or kerosene ranges for both roasting and baking, and so regard these two processes as very similar, they were formerly entirely distinct and sep- arate. Roasting, as I have explained, previously was done before an open fire, but the baking was carried on in a huge oven built of bricks, in which a fire was built and kept burning for some hours ; then the oven was swept clean, and the bread, pies, cakes, and other foods baked in the heat which was still retained by the bricks or tiles. No doubt many of the dishes which were prepared in this way were very deUcious, but no one can deny that the present manner of baking is far more con- venient to the housewife. In all first-class ranges, whether constructed for the burning of wood, coal, gas, or kerosene, the oven is well ventilated and cal- culated to turn out perfectly baked products if the heat is properly regulated. If it were possible for every housewife to possess an oven thermometer, many of the failures which are due to guesswork in baking would be eUminated ; but even without such a contrivance, it is possible 217 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK to attain perfect results in baking. The old-fash- ioned paper test to determine the temperature of the oven is a very good one, and is used with excellent results by many good cooks. In using this test, the oven is heated, and a piece of white paper placed on the lower shelf and the door closed. If the paper browns delicately and evenly in three minutes, the oven is what is termed a moderate^oven, and suitable for most cakes, corn breads, puddings, and meat dishes made from the coarser cuts. For fruit cakes, meringues, and those dishes which reqiiire long, slow baking the paper should not brown well until it has been in the oven for nearly four minutes. Baking-powder biscuits, bread, small cakes, and muffins demand a quicker oven than a moderate one, so the paper must become distinctly brown in two minutes. And for roasts, the paper must brown in one minute. If bread is placed in too hot an oven, it will sud- denly cease to rise and will not be as light as it should, while cake baked in too great heat will split. Too cool an oven will produce a loaf of bread that is overlight and very porous; and the cake will rise and run over the sides of the pan. In baking bread the oven should be very hot when the loaves are put in to bake, and should be cooled sUghtly as the baking proceeds, while cake, on the contrary, requires a cooler oven at first, with a gradual and increasing heat. The reason for this lies in the different methods by which the bread and 218 BAKING cake are leavened. Yeast-risen products must be placed in a heat great enough to check the growth of the yeast plant, while cakes which are made light by the use of baking powder or soda must be allowed to rise after having been placed in the heat. It is always advisable to place a cake in an oven rather too cool than too hot, allowing the heat to increase gradually as the leavening agent does its work. Never move a cake in the oven until it has become well set, for the cells which have been formed by the rising of the batter, not having become fixed, will break, and the batter fall if the pan is disturbed ; and as the carbon dioxide or leavening agent has exhausted itself and has no more power, the cake will be heavy and indigestible. Pastry should be very cold when placed in the oven, and the oven should be as hot as for bread. This will cause the pastry to become light and digest- ible. If placed in a moderate oven, the fat dissolves, mixes with the starch, and produces a tough mass very difficult of digestion. Pies made with one crust require careful baking, as the pastry must be quickly finished, while the filling usually is of such nature that it requires a slow oven. Therefore, the correct method for making lemon meringue, custard, pump- kin, or squash pies is to bake the shell of pastry first, cooking the filling on the top of the range, and then to pour it in the pastry shell, and brown the top of the pie dehcately in the oven. Such a method will produce a wholesome, deUcious pie. 219 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Lemon Meringue Pie. Make the pastry after foundation formula for flaky pastry, and cover the outside of a greased pie plate with it. Prick with a fork in various places, then place the inverted pie plate on a dripping pan and bake the crust in a hot oven. Cool, remove, and fill with this mixture: Mix one tablespoon of cornstarch with three fourths of a cup of sugar and one tablespoon of flour ; pour over them three fourths of a cup of boiUng water, stirring constantly. Cook over hot water for three minutes, then add a teaspoon of butter, three table- spoons of lemon juice, the grated rind of one lemon, and one eighth of a teaspoon of salt ; also two well- beaten egg yolks. Simmer till the egg has cooked, then pour into the pastry shell, cover with a lemon- flavored meringue, made as described on page 109, and brown in a very moderate oven. Custard Pie. Prepare the pastry shell as described for lemon meringue pie and fill with custard filhng, made as follows : Scald a cup and a half of milk, and beat two eggs to a light froth with three tablespoons of sugar, one eighth of a teaspoon of salt, and a table- spoon of cornstarch; pour the hot milk over the sugar and egg mixture and cook over hot water till the mixture thickens, then add a grating of nutmeg or mace or half a teaspoon of vanilla extract. Cool sHghtly, pour into the pastry shell, and place in a mod- erate oven to brown. Pumpkin or Squash Pie. Prepare the pastry shell, and make the filling as follows : Mix together one 220 BAKING and a half cups of steamed and strained squash or pumpkin, two thirds of a cup of brown sugar, two well-beaten eggs, a grating of lemon peel, a teaspoon of lemon jviice, teaspoon of cinnamon, one fourth of a teaspoon of ginger and mace, and a scant table- spoon of cornstarch. Scald two cups of milk and pour over the mixture. Stir over boiling water till well mixed, then pour into the shell, and bake till brown. Fruit is often cooked by baking and is always a wholesome, popular dish when so prepared. Rhu- barb, quinces, prunes, apples, pears, and other vari- eties lend themselves well to this method of cookery. A moderate oven is best for baking all fruits, as the richness of flavor is more readily brought out by such a method. Rhubarb should be cut in lengths, washed, but not peeled, unless very tough and stringy. Place it in a baking dish with a few bits of orange or lemon peel, cover it with granulated sugar, and add a very httle water. Place in a moderate oven and bake till tender. Baked Pears or Quinces. Core, wash, but do not peel, the fruit, and place in a covered dish, half filling the latter with cold water. Put the dish (a casserole is excellent for this purpose) in a mod- erate oven and bake till the fruit may be pierced with a fork. This will usually require an hour; then add sugar to taste and bake fifteen minutes longer. 221 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Baked Apples. Core large red apples and pare them one third of the way, place in a covered baking pan, and cover with a syrup made by boiling one cup of water with one of sugar for five minutes. Cover the pan and bake the apples till tender but not broken. Then remove the cover and sprinkle the apples with sugar. Place at the top of a very hot oven or under the gas broiler to glaze the sugar. Baste with the syrup several times. Serve cold, topped with whipped cream, or with plain cream. Baked Prunes. Wash a pound of prunes and soak for several hours in cold water. Place in a covered baking dish in the oven, in the water in which they were soaked. Bake till tender ; then add a small amount of sugar and continue baking ten minutes. For flavor, a little lemon or orange peel may be added to the prunes when put in the oven. 222 CHAPTER XVIII FRYING {Boiling in Deep Fat Sauteing Pan Broiling All foods that are prepared for the table by being cooked in fat are termed fried foods, although those which are cooked in only a small amount of fat are really sauted, and those which are cooked in a hot pan which has been merely coated with fat are pan broiled. Frying proper means immersing the food into deep, boiling fat, and allowing it to remain there until it is brown and well cooked throughout. Fried foods are not more injurious than those cooked by any other means if they are well fried. It is only when they are served floating in surplus grease, or dry and tasteless, showing that the fat was not of the correct degree of temperature, that they become harmful. Deep frying requires more skill than any other type of cookery. To know when the fat is at just the correct heat for cooking fish, croquettes, fritters, or whatever has been selected, takes good judgment and experience, for not all foods that are fried demand fat of the same temperature. Those 223 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK foods which are made of mixtures which have been previously cooked, Uke croquettes, rissoles, and similar dishes, may be fried in fat that is much hotter than that in which raw products hke doughnuts, meats, and raw vegetables are cooked, because the latter must be given an opportunity to cook thor- oughly to the very center, and if the fat is too hot they will burn before this is accomplished. To fry any article of food satisfactorily, the fol- lowing principles must be observed : Use a heavy kettle. Fill it at least two thirds full of fat. Test fat before beginning to fry article. Use hotter fat for previously cooked than for raw foods. Always drain fried articles on paper before serving. Never fry too many articles at once. A heavy iron kettle, or one which is very secure and solid, is the only utensil that should be selected for frsdng, as great harm might occur should the kettle tip and spill the hot fat on the fire. Besides, a heavy kettle will keep the fat at a more even tem- perature than a light one, which is always an ad- vantage in frying. To fry satisfactorily there must be sufficient fat in the kettle to float the articles to be fried. This may be either lard, vegetable oil, clarified drippings, or a blending of any or all of the three. Lard is, perhaps, the most economical of all the frying mediums, as it not only produces better results, but may be clarified again and again, while many of the others are usable but once. 224 FRYING When deep frying is used as a method of food preparation frequently, it is well to use the fat first for doughnuts, fritters, or croquettes; later, after clarifying, it may be used for potatoes or other vegetables, and finally for fish. Never fry fish first and the more dehcate articles later in the same fat. To test the fat for deep frying, place it in the kettle over "the fire and watch it closely. If lard is used, a bluish smoke will be noticed rising from it as it heats. When this occurs, the fat is usually ready for use. Try it by dropping in a cube of soft bread. If the bread browns deUcately, but un- mistakably, in forty seconds, it is hot enough for uncooked foods, such as crullers, chops, or potatoes. If croquettes or other cooked mixtures are to be fried, the fat must brown in twenty seconds. Never attempt to fry too many articles at once, for no matter how hot the fat may be at the beginning of the operation, it will become cool as the cold foods are dropped into it, and unless great care is taken the grease will soak into them. If the fat is just right, the surface of the article will become crisp almost as soon as it is dropped into the fat. This will harden the outer surface so that the inside may become thoroughly cooked without being penetrated by the fat. A frying basket is a great convenience. The articles to be fried are placed in it, and the basket is submerged in the boiUng fat; when they are brown, the basket is lifted from the fat with all of 225 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK its contents intact. When a fork is used in lifting foods from the fat, it is difficult not to break them. If the fat sputters while it is heating, it denotes the presence of water, and it will be impossible to fry any article successfully while this condition exists, for the fat will not become any hotter than boiUng water, which is 212° F., while for successful frying it must be at least 350° F. The only thing to do in such cases is to wait until the water in the fat has evaporated. As soon as this occurs, the temperature of the fat will increase to the required degree. After the frying is completed, the fat may be clari- fied and made ready for use again. Place the fry- ing pan on the back of the range and drop a few sUces of raw potato in it. Let them remain in the fat until they have gradually become a deep brown. Then strain the fat into a jar through a piece of cheesecloth. It may be used again and again, if this method is followed after each frjdng. Croquettes, fish, oysters, and other foods are usually dipped in well-beaten egg and then in bread or cracker crumbs before frying. The egg is beaten with a tablespoon of water and then strained ; then the croquette, chop, or other food is dipped into it and well covered with the egg on all sides. After this operation, lay the articles to be fried on a plate of fine bread crumbs which have been mixed with a little pepper and salt. Turn them over in the crumbs so that every part is well covered, then set 226 FRYING aside until all are dipped. Place the articles to be fried in the frying basket and dip them into the deep, hot fat. As soon as they are brown, they will be ready to take from the fat. Lift carefully on to soft paper and allow them to drain for a few mo- ments before serving. Articles which have been egged and crumbed may be set aside for an hour or longer before frying without injury. Fried Oysters. Clean and dry large oysters be- tween towels, season them very lightly with salt and pepper, and dip in fine bread crumbs ; then dip into well-beaten and strained egg, and again into fine crumbs. Fry in deep fat as described. Drain on paper and serve with any preferred sauce. All small fish, crabs, chops, and cutlets are fried in the same manner. Chicken Croquettes. Make the thick white sauce according to foundation formula on page 49 ; to one cup of sauce add a cup and a half of finely chopped cold chicken, half a teaspoon of salt, one fourth teaspoon of pepper and a dash of mace, a few drops of onion juice, and a few drops of lemon juice. Spread on a platter to cool. Then make into desired shape, dip in egg and fine bread crumbs, and fry as directed. All meat mixtures and croquettes of other meat than chicken are made in the same way. A few chopped mushrooms may be added to the chicken mixture if desired. Rice Croquettes. Wash half a cup of rice and cover with half a cup of boiling water, then cover 227 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK and cook over hot water until the rice has absorbed all the water. Now add a cup of scalded milk, stir Ughtly with a fork, and steam until the rice is very soft. Remove from the fire and add two table- spoons of powdered sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, two well-beaten egg yolks, and a tablespoon of butter. Spread on a platter to cool. Shape in balls, roll in crumbs, then in well-beaten egg, and again in crumbs. Fry as directed. French Fried Potatoes. Wash and pare small potatoes and cut them in eighths lengthwise. Soak for an hour in cold water, then dry between towels, and fry in deep boihng fat. Drain on paper and sprinkle with salt. Sauteing, which is a type of frying, is a method used in cooking many articles which are usually merely browned in shallow fat. It is really a less wholesome way of preparing food than deep frying, as it is almost impossible to cook foods in this way without allowing the grease to penetrate them. Nevertheless, sauteing is a popular form of cookery and is useful in warming up left-over foods, or for cooking small quantities. The article to be cooked is placed in the frjdng pan with a small amount of butter or shortening and tossed or stirred frequently until it is brown. It is then seasoned and served. Lyonnaise Potatoes. Left-over cold boiled pota- toes are used in making this very popular and ap- petizing dish. Shce two small onions after paring them and place in a frying pan with a tablespoon of 228 FRYING butter or other fat. Cut five or six cold boiled potatoes in thin sUces and add to the onion, stir them frequently till a pale brown, then season and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and a few drops of lemon juice. Mushrooms Sauted with Bacon. Cook thin sUces of bacon till crisp and brown, then remove the shces and keep them hot. Peel and slice large mushrooms and saut^ in the bacon fat till tender. This will re- quire about seven minutes. Drain on paper, sprinkle with lemon juice, and serve with the bacon. Sauted Apples with Salt Pork. Cook thin slices of salt pork till crisp and brown. Core and cut in quarter-inch slices tart, nicely flavored apples. Drop them in the pork fat and saut6 till brown. Serve on a hot platter with the pork as a garnish. Pan Broiling, which is the third division of frying, is cooking with just enough fat to prevent the meat or other articles under preparation from sticking to the pan. Pan-broiled Lamb Chops. Heat a frying pan very hot, then rub it over very lightly with a piece of pork or other fat, place the chops in it, and allow them to sear nicely on one side. Then turn and sear them on the other side. Now reduce the heat sUghtly and finish cooking the meat. As fat collects in the pan, remove it, or the meat will be fried in- stead of pan broiled. Season when the cooking is finished. 229 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Deviled Pork Chops with Mashed Potatoes. Mix together two tablespoons of melted butter, one tablespoon of chili sauce, one of Worcestershire sauce, tablespoon of walnut catsup or lemon juice, teaspoon of mixed mustard, and a few grains of cayenne. Pan broil lean pork chops sUghtly on both sides, then gash them sUghtly on each side, and place in a dripping pan or casserole. Cover with the sauce and bake in a hot oven till finished. Mash potatoes as usual and make a pointed mound of them. Arrange the chops in a pyramid about the potatoes and place turnip or carrot cups filled with creamed mushrooms or peas between the chops. Stick a paper rosette in each turnip. • English Mutton Chops with Currant Mint Sauce. Have the butcher bone and roll rib mutton chops with several slices of bacon inside. Then cut the roll into slices about an inch and a half deep, so that each sUce looks hke a miniature roast beef. Pan broil the chops for ten minutes, turning often. Then place them in a dripping pan and finish cooking in the oven. When done, place on a hot platter and garnish with parsley. Over each chop spread a sauce made as follows: Beat to a paste half a cup of currant jelly and add to it a tablespoon of finely chopped mint leaves and a very little grated orange rind. Serve the rest of the sauce in a sauce boat. 230 Conserving Fruits and Vegetables CHAPTER XIX THE CONSERVATION OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES Preserving Fruits Jams and Marmalades : Tart and Juicy PVuit Jellies : Only Those Fruits Rich, in Pectin {Cherries, Plums, Grapes, Peaches, Pears, Crab Apples , Conserves : Mixed Fruits Perfect sterilization is the secret of success in conserving fruits and vegetables of all kinds. One may select whatever method one pleases, — the old-fashioned open-kettle system or the newer cold-pack method, advocated by the government, — but the principles which underiie these or any other method of canning or preserving are absolute cleanhness, freedom from germs or mold spores of all sorts, sterihty of the kind which is observed in the stirgical wards of the hospitals. When the housewife understands this clearly and reaUzes that only by practicing the utmost care to observe this cleanhness can she be sure of success in her work, then canning and preserving will become an easy matter to her. And to obtain this state of im- munity from germs, bacteria, and floating mold 231 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK spores with which the air is filled, it is necessary to thoroughly scald and boil all of the jars, tops, and utensils which are to be used in the work, and then to guard them carefully from a further attack by the germ enemy, which is present in the dust, the air, and on all unsterilized vessels. When these precautions are taken, success in canning is almost assured. There are certain principles which should be regarded in all work of this kind ; they are : Sound, not overripe fruit and vegetables ; Plenty of boiling water ; Adequate heat ; Perfect sterilization of jars and utensils ; Reliable jars and rubbers ; Secure sealing. Canning is the most difficult method of fruit conservation, but it is the method most often used and the least expensive. It is the only method, except drying, for keeping vegetables also, and for that reason, if for no other, it should be thoroughly comprehended. The most reliable and simple method of canning is the cold-pack method. It is used by the large canning factories and is also recommended by the United States Government. This method consists of four processes : Scalding or blanching, Cold dipping, Packing in jars, Sterilizing. , 232 FRUIT AND VEGETABLE CONSERVATION Scalding consists in dipping the vegetables or fruit in boiling water, which makes peeling them an easy matter. This is used for tomatoes, peaches, plums, apricots, and similar products. Blanching is merely allowing the products to remain for a longer period in the scalding water, or even boiling them for a few moments, which removes any acid or acrid taste and makes them more easily managed in the later processes. Cold Dipping, after the articles have been blanched and drained, is plunging them into cold water. This plumps them and makes them more attractive in appearance and also more firm after their bath in the boiUng water. It also preserves their color and flavor. Sterilizing is the boiling or steaming of the packed jars both before and after sealing. v All of the above processes are used in canning fruits and vegetables. In the former the fruits, if large, are cooked for a short time in a thin syrup before being placed in the jars. Preliminaey Preparations Before beginning the canning, be sure that every- thing necessary to the work is at hand. Jars, rubber tops, a large-mouthed funnel, dipper, large spoons, plenty of towels, at least two saucepans of ample size, a jar lifter, and a canner or a wash boiler fitted with a rack on which to place the 233 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK jars to be sterilized. Several small sharp knives are also necessary. Test the jars and see that the covers fit them perfectly, then wash both jars and tops in warm water, to which has been added a teaspoon of baking soda. After washing, place them in a kettle of cold water, and bring slowly to the boiling point, then boil for three or four minutes. Leave the jars in the boiUng water until you are ready to fill them. When taking them from the water be very careful not to touch the inside, as they would then require to be re-sterilized. Observe the same care in removing the covers from the water, place them on a sterilized plate, and do not touch except on the outer surface. Twirl the rubbers in the boiling water before adjusting them on the jars. The following vegetables require blanching : string beans, asparagus, spinach, beet tops, dandeUons, green peppers, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts. Prepare the vegetables as for the table, then place them in rapidly boiUng water to which salt has been added in the proportion of one tablespoon to a gallon of water. This preserves the color of the vegetables and also their flavor. Boil rapidly for five minutes. Then cold dip them, drain well, and place in the sterihzed jars. Now fill the jars with boiUng water, add half a teaspoon of salt to each jar, place the covers on, and partially tighten them. Stand the jars on a rack in a wash boiler, or in a canner and fill to within one inch of the tops with 234 FRUIT AND VEGETABLE CONSERVATION water. Place the cover on the boiler or canner and bring rapidly to the boiUng point. Boil for two hours and a half. At the end of this time, lift the jars carefully from the water, tighten the covers securely and re- turn the jars to the boiler, this time on their sides and submerged in the boiling water. Cover again and boil for ten minutes. The jars may be allowed to cool in the water if the canner is not required immediately, or they may be hfted from the water, the covers again tightened, and the jars placed where no draft can reach them to cause them to crack. DeUcate vegetables, such as peas, hma beans, and corn, require Ught blanching, and cold dipping. They should be placed in the sterilized jars, the latter filled to overflowing with boiling water, half a teaspoon of salt added to each jar, the rubbers and covers adjusted hghtly, and the jars placed in the canner or boiler, hot water poured around them to within an inch of the tops and the sterilization continued for two hours. Then the covers must be fastened securely and the jars submerged in boiling water and steriUzed for ten minutes. When corn is canned, it is cut from the ears and placed in the jars with the salt and boiling water, then sterilized for three hom:s. Vegetables which have a distinct cellulose struc- ture, like beets, turnips, parsnips, or carrots, are 235 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK canned in the following manner : select young tender vegetables, wash them, — and in the case of all ex- cept beets pare or scrape them, — then cover with boiling water and boil for half an hour. Drain and cold dip them. Beets should be skinned after removing from the cold dip. If the vegetables are small and tender, they may be packed whole in the jars. Adjust the rubbers and fill the jars with boiling water. Place the tops on Ughtly and stand the jars in the boiler. Surround with water to within an inch or two from the top. Cover and boil for an hour. Then fasten the tops securely without taking them from the jars. Submerge the jar^ in boiling water and boil for twenty minutes. Feuit Canning Fruits are canned in much the same manner as vegetables. Small fruits Uke strawberries, rasp- berries, blackberries, etc., require no scalding or blanching, but are packed directly into the jars. Then a thin s3Tnip is poured over them and they are finished Uke the vegetables. Half an hour should be allowed for the first boihng, then ten minutes after the jars are securely sealed and sub- merged in the boihng water. Strawberries require a heavier syrup than the other small fruits, as they are more acid. Allow a pound of sugar and half a pint of water to a quart of fruit. Boil the sugar and water together for 236 FRUIT AND VEGETABLE CONSERVATION seven minutes, then cool it slightly, and pour over the fruit, packed as closely as possible in the jars. For Raspberries and other berries, half a pound of sugar with half a pint of water, boiled for seven minutes, will make a syrup that is suflaciently heavy. Peaches, Plums, Pears, and other large fruits are treated in a somewhat different manner. Peaches and plums are scalded, cold dipped, and peeled, then halved or left whole as desired. Pears and quinces are peeled and halved. The fruits are then blanched in a thin s3Tup for ten minutes, Ufted carefully from the S3Tup into the sterilized jars, the syrup is poured over them, the rubbers and tops adjusted, and the jars submerged in hot water and boiled for thirty-five minutes. Be sure that the syrup fills the jars to the very top before ad- justing the covers. In canning peaches and plums one may improve the flavor by adding a few of the kernels from the pits to the syrup. 237 CHAPTER XX PRESERVING AND JAM MAKING Preserving is a less complex process than canning, although a more expensive one, as a greater amount of sugar is demanded, but the sugar is useful as it aids in keeping the fruit. Sugar is used in canning also, but it is a strange fact that used in small quantities this product will induce fermentation unless great care is taken to make everything perfectly sterile, although when it is used in the form of a heavy syrup it possesses what the chemists term bactericidal properties, which mold spores and germs will avoid. There- fore, while it is always well to observe the same re- gard for chemical cleanUness in every form of fruit conservation, it is not necessary to go through the same processes of blanching and sterilizing in the jars as in canning. Science has taught us that the old-time idea of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit is not necessary. Three fourths of a pound will make as highly con- centrated a syrup as is necessary for keeping most fruits. A few very acid varieties may require the larger amount, or if an unusually heavy syrup is desired the pound for pound method may be used. 238 PRESERVING AND JAM MAKING In preserving all fruits the following principles should be rigidly observed : Select only sound ripe fruit. Sterilize jaxs and utensils. Use the best white sugar. Preserve small amounts at a time. Observe accuracy. When preserving small fruits, wash, measure, and pick them over carefully, laying the bruised or im- perfect ones aside for making the syrup. Crush the latter and drain through a jelly bag. Add the juice to the sugar, or if the berries are all perfect, half their quantity of water should be added to the syrup. Bring rapidly to the boiling point and skim. Cook for five minutes, then add the fruit, a small quantity at a time, to the syrup, and cook gently till it can be pierced with a fork. By this time the fruit will be almost transparent and fully permeated with the syrup. Lift carefully, piece by piece, into the jars, then add more fruit to the syrup, and cook in the same manner. When all the fruit has been cooked, drain the juice that has gathered in the jars, and return it to the kettle. Boil the juice once more for five minutes, then pour it over the berries and stand aside to cool. Do not cover or seal till quite cold, as the juice will be less thick if the jars are sealed while hot. Protect from the air and dust with a pane of glass placed on supports which prevent it from quite touching the jars. 239 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Large fruits are pared, halved, sliced, or left whole as preferred, and are cooked in a syrup made of three fourths their quantity of sugar boiled to a thick syrup with half its quantity of water. Cook only a small quantity of fruit at a time in the syrup and allow each piece to become almost clear before re- moving it to the jar. Drain the syrup from the jars when all the fruit is cooked, add it to that in the kettle, and boil ten minutes, then pour over the fruit. Finish as directed in preserving small fruits. I Jams and Makmalades Less perfect fruits are required for the making of jams and marmalades than in canning or pre- serving. And while one should be careful to exclude all decayed specimens, those which are a Uttle over- ripe or bruised need not be discarded in this form of conservation. In jam making the fruits are mashed so that no distinct pieces are present in the finished product ; in marmalades the fruits are cut into very minute pieces, which are kept separate and distinct by adding the sugar early in the cooking. The following principles govern all jam making : Place fruit over the fire without sugar. Mash and stir frequently. Add sugar when fruit is cooked to a pulp. Cook tiU thick. Seal when cold. 240 PRESERVING AND JAM MAKING Berries, cherries, currants, and other small fruits should be washed well and picked over carefully. Measure them and allow three fourths their quantity of sugar. Place the fruit over the fire in porcelain- lined kettles, a^nd cook till soft. Mash well until no distinct pieces -are noticeable. Then add the sugar and cook very slowly tiU thick. Stir frequently to prevent burning. Pour into sterilized glasses and seal when cold. In making marmalades, these principles should be observed : Cut fruit in small pieces. Cook -sidth sugar till thick. Boil very gently. Seal when cold. Wash, measure, and pick over the fruits, and if peaches or other large varieties are used, peel them ; cherries should be pitted. Cut in very small pieces and place over the fire without the sugar for a few moments until heated through, then add the sugar and cook very gently till thick, stirring frequently. Pour into steriUzed glasses and seal when cold. Combinations of fruits make delightful jams and marmalades. Currants and raspberries ; white grapes and peaches ; cherries and pineapple ; rhubarb and strawberries all are delicious combinations. In making jam of currants and raspberries, it is well to cook the currants for a few moments first, then to extract the juice, add it to the raspberries and cook as in other jams. Pit cherries and remove the seeds from the white grapes in making the marmalades. 241 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK Jellies In selecting fniit for jelly making, always bear in mind that that which is underripe is -preferable to the fully or overripe. The jelly-making quaUty in fruit is a property which is known as pectin ; this is only present when the fruit is either just ripe or merely turning; when the friiit becomes a little overripe the pectin has disappeared from it, and it will be impossible to make a satisfactory jelly. And not all fruits contain this pectin at any stage. Currants, grapes, cranberries, crab apples, quinces, and plums are rich in pectin and wiU make perfect jelly if used before overripe. Blackberries also con- tain a sufficient quantity of pectin for jelly making while shghtly underripe. Other fruits must be combined with one of these varieties if it is desired to make jelly from them. By adhering to these principles, success in jelly making will be assured: ^ Sterilize all utensils. Select fruit which is not overripe. Cook without sugar. Drain through flannel bag. Boil again without sugar. Add sugar. Seal when cold. Jelly molds quickly and readily if glasses and utensils used in its making are not rendered per- fectly sterile; therefore, it is well before beginning the jelly making to place all utensils, glasses, etc., into cold water and bring them quickly to the boil- 242 PRESERVING AND JAM MAKING ing point. Look the fruit over well, but do not wash it unless dusty. If necessary to wash it, drain well before cooking, as the presence of water pre- vents perfect results. Put the fruit over the fire and bring quickly to the boihng point. Cook for a few momfents, then turn into the jelly bag. Allow all of the juice to drip through but do not squeeze the bag. Reserve the pulp for another purpose, which I will describe shortly. Measure the juice and allow an equal amount of sugar. Put the juice into a clean pre- serving kettle and place over the fire, bring quickly to the boUing point, and boil rapidly for ten min- utes. Then add the sugar and stir until it has dis- solved. Boil quickly for ten minutes, then try a little of the syrup on a saucer. If it begins to con- geal about the edges, the jelly is finished. Four into hot glasses and place in the sunshine to cool. Some fruits require longer boiling than others. I have even found it necessary to cook the juice with the sugar for twenty minutes, and again in making currant jelly, scarcely any boiling was necessary, so the only safe way to determine when the correct point has been reached is to try the syrup on a cold plate or saucer. In making currant, blackberry, and grape jelly, it is an excellent plan to heat the sugar before adding it to the juice. This method facilitates the process. Fruits in which pectin is lacking must be combined 243 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK with those rich in this j elly-making quality. Peaches, pears, and other large fruits may be used with apples or crab apples. Cherries, raspberries, and small fruits of any variety may be combined with currants. Fruit Butter The pulp remaining in the jelly bag after the juice has dripped through may be used in making a second grade of jelly or in making a spiced butter to eat with cold meats or with bread. If it is desired to use it for jelly, squeeze the bag until all the pulp is dry. Then measure the juice and allow an equal amount of sugar, and proceed as in making the first grade of jelly. In making the spiced butter, turn the pulp into a sieve and press it through with a wooden spoon or potato masher. To each pint of pulp add one fourth a cup of good cider vinegar, three fom-ths of a pint of granulated or soft white sugar, a teaspoon of ground cinnamon, and half a teaspoon of ground cloves. Cook gently till thick. Then pour into glasses and seaL as usual. Spiced Fruits Spiced or sweet pickled fruits are very much liked for serving with cold meats. They are easily made and keep very well. Peaches, pears, plums, crab apples, cherries, and grapes are usually selected for this method of conservation, though other fruits may be used if desired. Good cider vinegar, the 244 PRESERVING AND JAM MAKING best quality of spices, and perfect fruits should be selected for spicing. Brown sugar is sometimes preferred to white for this purpose. For any variety of sweet pickled fruit, prepare a syrup by boiling together two pounds of sugar, a pint of vinegar, with an ounce of stick cinnamon and half an ounce of cloves placed in a small bag that may be removed when the fruit has been cooked. This quantity of syrup will answer for half a peck of peaches or a corresponding quantity of other fruit. If peaches are to be used, rub them with a cloth to remove fuzz, but do not pare them ; if other large fruit is used, wipe with a cloth and halve or leave whole ; drop them into the syrup and cook for five minutes, then remove from the fire and allow to stand for twenty-four hours. Then drain the syrup from the fruit and bring it again to the boiling point, return the peaches to it, and cook till tender. Place in stone jars, or in the usual quart jars, and seal when cold. Small fruits may be finished at the first cooking. The intermittent process prevents the large fruits from breaking and becoming too soft. Conserves f Conserves are made from combinations of fruit cooked with sugar to a rich, thick mass, to which chopped nuts are sometimes added. These con- serves are served with bread and butter, crackers, 245 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK meats, or simply as an accompaniment to luncheon or supper. They make delicious sweet sandwiches. French Conserve is made of equal parts of straw- berries, rhubarb, and pineapple. Slice the pine- apple and pare the slices, cut the fruit in small dice, rejecting the hard core. Cut an equal quantity of tender rhubarb, without peeling, into dice of the same size and place over the fire without water to cook very gently. When quite soft, add the straw- berries and cook till the latter are tender, then mash all the fruit well and add three fourths their quantity of sugar. Boil for half an hour very gently and add two ounces of almonds, blanched and shredded or chopped. Cook the conserve until very thick. Then pour into glasses. Seal when cold. Pineapple Conserve. Peel and grate coarsely or run through the meat chopper three ripe pineapples and add to them the grated rind and pulp of two lemons and three oranges, rejecting the seeds. Cook together for half an hour, then add an equal quantity of sugar and boil gently tUl thick. Pour into glasses and seal when cold. Tutti Frutti Conserve. Pare twenty-four ripe peaches, ten pears, fifteen blue plums, and cut the fruit in quarters. Add two poimds of white grapes, halved and freed from their seeds. Cook all together with an equal quantity of sugar xmtil the syrup is thick and heavy, then pour into sterilized jars, and seal when cool. 246 PRESERVING AND JAM MAKING Peach Conserve. Scald and pare four pounds of ripe peaches and cut in small pieces. Break a few of the peach pits and blanch the kernels, add these to the fruit, also a medium-sized pineapple, pared and chopped coarsely, one orange and one lemon grated and freed from the seeds. Mix the fruits and cook half an hour, then add one fourth of a pound of blanched and chopped almonds, and a poimd of sultana raisins, also chopped. Measure the mixture and add three fourths the quantity of sugar. Simmer till thick and rich. 247 CHAPTER XXI METHODS OF PREPARING FOOD MATERIALS Methods of Preparing Food Materials ' Measuring Stirring Mixing Kneading Folding and Cutting Rolling Molding , Egg and Crumbing No matter how fine or how costly the ingredients which compose it, no dish will be a success which is not properly put together. Unless the cook understands the meaning of the various terms used in cookery, she will not be able to combine her materials in a way that will produce satisfactory results. The first essential to uniform good cookery is the knowledge of the proper methods of measurements. Old-fashioned housewives often accomplished won- derful results by guessing at quantities, but this was only after years of experience had enabled them to judge by the eye and to calculate approximately near the right amount. No one can say, however, just how many failures attended them while gaining this abihty, and the present-day housewife will do 248 METHODS OF PREPARING FOOD MATERIALS well to be guided by her recipes and measuring spoons and cups. These at least will insure uniform results, providing all other things are equal. Even the scale which housewives of a generation ago considered an absolute necessity has given way to the cup and spoon method of measuring, and almost all recipes now prepared for American house- wives are given in these measurements. A meas- uring cup of standard size holds exactly half a pint Uquid measure, or half a pound of sugar or butter, or one fourth of a pound of flour. A standard table- spoon will hold half an ounce of sugar or butter ; a standard teaspoon, sixty drops of liquid. All measurements in this as well as in most other books on cookery are level measurements unless otherwise stated. Flour is always sifted before it is measured, and the cup is filled with a spoon, never dipped into the flour. Measuring spoons may be ob- tained in sets containing a tablespoon, half table- spoon, teaspoon, and half and quarter teaspoon. These are fastened together with a ring and are very convenient and practical. Measuring cups are marked to indicate halves, fourths, and thirds. Every kitchen should contain two of these cups, one for measuring dry ingredients, the other for Uquids. This will save much time when one is baking or preparing a number of compUcated dishes. The following table of measurements will prove of help when a recipe which calls for weights instead of measurements is used : 249 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK 4 cups of flour equal 1 pound. 2 cups of butter packed solid equal 1 pound. 5 cup of butter equals i pound. 2 cups of granulated sugar equal 1 pound. 2i cups of powdered sugar equal 1 pound. 8 eggs in shells equal 1 pound. 10 eggs after taken from shells equal 1 pound. 1 cup of shelled nut meats packed solid equals i pound. 1 pint of liquid equals 1 pound. 2 tablespoons of butter equal 1 ounce. 4 tablespoons of butter equal | cup. 2 tablespoons granulated sugar equal 1 ounce. 1 tablespoon of liquid equals J ounce. Mixing After the materials have been selected and properly measured, the next step toward success in cookery is to combine them correctly. Mixing is a general term, which may mean stirring, beating, kneading, or folding and cutting, in accordance with the dish which is under preparation and the quality and texture of the materials which are to be used. Stirring is the method in most general use. It consists in moving the ingredients round and round in a bowl or saucepan, using for the purpose a spoon, knife, spatula, or fork. Liquids which are in the process of cooking are stirred ; thin batters are put together by this method; preserves, jams, cereals, sauces, and articles of similar nature are mixed by stirring. Beating is the method by which eggs are made light, cakes mixed, gelatine desserts whipped, cream frothed, and various other products made ready 250 METHODS OF PREPARING FOOD MATERIALS for adding to the dish which is under preparation. Beating is accompUshed by means of a fork, wooden spoon, or an egg beater. If a fork or wooden spoon is used, it is passed from the bottom to the top of the mixture rapidly, then down again, and so on, turning the ingredients over and over vmtil they are thoroughly mixed and a great deal of air has been forced into them. With an egg beater, if of the rotary kind, the wheels turn round and round, beat- ing the mixture, combining it with the air, and mak- ing it light. Folding and Cutting is the term usually appUed to the manner in which eggs are added to cake batter or other light mixtures. Cream, when it is beaten stiff, is folded into the jelly or other dessert of which it is to form a part ; egg whites are folded into a cake batter in this way; the eggs are beaten stiff and placed on the batter, the latter is cut with a spoon or knife to the bottom of the bowl, directly through the center. One half the mixture is turned hghtly over the egg whites, then the batter is again cut through the center, and one haK of it thrown over the other. This process is repeated until the mix- tiu-es are blended. Kneading is appUed to the manner in which doughs are made ready for baking. After the ingredients have all been placed in the mixing bowl and thor- oughly blended either by beating or stirring, the mixtm-e is turned out on the floured molding board with a spatula or broad-bladed knife. Then the 251 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK fingers are dipped in flour, and the dough is brought from the back of the board over that which is on the front. With the ball of the hand the dough is pressed downward and at the same time moved back- ward. Then the fingers are again used to bring the back of the dough over the front portion and again the ball of the hand presses it down. In this way a new portion of the dough is continually brought uppermost to meet the hand. This process is continued until the dough feels smooth and elastic. The dough should be turned half way round oc- casionally and dredged with a Uttle fioiu- if it becomes sticky and hard to manage. After a little experi- ence it will seem an easy matter to knead a large quantity of dough. It should be remembered that when the dough has been kneaded sufficiently it will be smooth, fine-grained, and filled with minute air bubbles. Baking powder or soda-raised doughs should be kneaded very Ughtly and deftly, and the hand should just touch them. Heavy-handedness is not for them, though yeast-raised dough may be worked with more force. Rolling RolUng is a process which is separate and distinct from any other. It is used in making pies, cookies, biscuits, and various small cakes and tarts. In roUing pastry one should work quickly and deftly. The rolling pin should be moved in but one direction if possible, and should scarcely touch the paste. 252 METHODS OF PREPARING FOOD MATERIALS Cookies, biscuits, and similar articles may be treated with less deference, but all rolling of doughs should be quickly and lightly accomplished. Molding Jellies, puddings, and various other dishes are frequently served very attractively by being placed in a mold, chilled, and then turned out on a platter. To mold successfully these or similar articles, the mold must be of heavy tin, very smooth on the in- side, and allowed to soak in cold water for a short time before it is used. For very elaborate dishes, soak the mold in ice water at least half an hour be- fore placing the mixture in it. Be careful that it stands perfectly level during the chilhng process, and when ready to unmold, run a sharp knife all around the edge to the very bottom of the mold. Then turn over on a plate and strike the outside of the mold sharply with the palm of the hand, or, holding the plate and mold tightly together, shake them quickly. This will always insure success if the mold was wet thoroughly and very cold when the mixture was put into it. Dipping the mold in hot water for a moment is an excellent way to re- move the contents. If it is employed, it should be merely dipped in the hot water and removed at once. Egg and Crumbing Croquettes, oysters, fish, and other articles which are cooked by the deep frying method are prepared 253 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK by dipping them in beaten egg and fine crumbs. This is a process which requires much care, for if it is not well done the crumbs will not stick, and when the frying is completed, bare spots will appear on the surface of the article, which will make it look ragged and unappetizing. In the first place, very fine crumbs must be used, and these should be of bread rather than cracker crumbs. The crumbs should be sifted and those made from the crusts of the bread kept separate from the inside of the loaf. Dehcate articles look better when only white cnunbs are used for covering them ; the brown crumbs made from the crusts will answer nicely for au gratin dishes. The egg for dipping should be well beaten. The whole egg should be used, though the yolk or white alone will give fairly satisfactory results. The use of the white of the egg alone will cause a rather tough crust, while the yolk will not prove so effec- tive in making the crumbs stick. A tablespoon of water may be added to each egg and strained with it, after beating both together. Spread the crumbs on a board and season them, then roll the articles in them and afterward in the egg. Sometimes the egg coating may be appUed more easily with a paint brush, but however it is done, care must be taken to coat every portion of the smiace with the egg. Then dip again in the bread crumbs, covering the articles well with them. When the last article has been dipped, the first will be ready for frying. 254 METHODS OF PREPARING FOOD MATERIALS Chopped parsley or tarragon or chervil may be added to the crumbs for variation, or a small quantity of Parmesan cheese is sometimes added, and the crumbs are then termed Milanaise Crumbs. Deviled Bread Crumbs. Season the article to be fried with salt, pepper, and paprika, and coat very thinly with mixed mustard before applying the beaten egg and bread crumbs. Sweet Croquettes may be dipped in crumbs made from stale cake or lady fingers. Macaroon crumbs are also used for this purpose occasionally. 255 CHAPTER XXII METHODS OF GARNISHING AND DECORATING Methods of Garnishing and Decorating With Herbs, Vegetables, or' Eggs With Pastry Bag and Tube With Fruits, Nuts, or Bonbons With Flowers . With Paper Frills, Rosettes, or Collars There are more than mere aesthetic reasons why foods should be made attractive to the eye. Dishes which tempt the appetite and cause the gastric juices to flow are more easily digested than those which are eaten merely because they are placed before one at meal time. That is why the invaUd's tray is always made as dainty and neat as possible and why one endeavors to make a delicate child's food interesting to him, for a feeble appetite is often coaxed by the sight of a tastefully decorated dish, when it would have rejected absolutely food pre- pared and served in the ordinary manner. To garnish a dish attractively adds almost noth- ing to its cost and makes it so much more pleasing in every way that the slight trouble it has required to place the bit of green or the slices of lemon or other decorations about it seems of little moment. 256 GARNISHING AND DECORATING The simplest form of garnishing is the sprig of parsley placed on a chop or steak, or the lemon sUce on the fish. From these to the elaborate decorations in sugar or aspic in which the chef takes such delight there are innumerable simple and attractive ways in which the value of even the most carefully pre- pared dish may be enhanced. Edible garnishes are always best if they can be managed. The steak served in a wreath of water cress is made doubly valuable, for both meat and garnish may be eaten, and one complements the other perfectly. A dish of pork chops served on a bed of spaghetti in tomato sauce not only looks far more attractive, but the food value of the com- bination is about twice as great as though the chops had been served alone. Small pickles sliced lengthwise and placed in a star on a meat loaf make a neat and tasty garnish. Hard-boiled eggs, the whites cut in sUces and the yolks pressed through a sieve, add to the attractive- ness of many a simple salad. Beets, green peppers, pimentos may be cut in fancy shapes with sharp knives or small vegetable cutters which come for this purpose, and make very pretty garnishes for boiled ham, salads, or other dishes. White turnips of regular size, pared, hollowed into cups and boiled, then filled with green peas, lima beans, or with the part of the vegetable which was removed cut into dice, and dressed with Becha- mel sauce, then topped with a disk of scarlet 257 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK pimento, make a very attractive and tempting gar- nish for a planked steak or a pot roast. Carrots may be cut in thick slices and treated in the same way. Lemon slices cut very thin and dipped in finely chopped parsley are used in decorating fried, baked, or boiled fish. Sometimes a figure is cut from boiled or pickled beets and placed on each lemon sUce after dipping in parsley. Cream cheese balls also rolled in parsley are used effectively on salads. Tiny croquettes of rice or hominy, fried a golden brown and flanked by cubes of currant jelly, add to the tempting appearance of roast or fried chicken or duck. Toast cut in circles, diamonds, or strips makes an effective garnish for any creamed dish. Ribbons of green pepper or pimento look well on salads or vegetable dishes, and lettuce leaves rolled tightly and cut into ribbons, which are then sprinkled about cold meat shoes or salads of fruit or other vegetables, serve not only to make them more attractive, but also to provide a way in which the outer leaves of the lettuce may be utiUzed. Tomato slices are served as a garnish to fried or baked fish or broiled chicken. Eggs are boiled hard, cut in eighths, and placed in the form of a star on a mound of spinach. The whites of hard-boiled eggs, sliced thin and cut into any desired form with the vegetable cutter, 258 fouTtcsy of "Good Hou^ekeepino" Potato Salad, Garnished with Small Pickles, Pimentos AND Nuts Comtesy of "Good Hovsel-eejHng" The Pastry Bag and Tubes are Useful in Garnishing GARNISHING AND DECORATING and interspersed with pimento, beet, or green pepper look well as a salad or chafing dish garnish. Radishes of the small, round, bright red variety, when cut into flower form, add to the attractiveness of a potato salad, or a dish of broiled chops or steak or chicken. To form chrysanthemums, slice the radish very thin almost to the top, then cut across these sUces in the same manner. Drop the radishes in ice water for an hour and they will open out in a form which will resemble the chrysanthemum. Celery stalks cut in two-inch pieces, then fringed with a sharp knife at each end and placed in ice water to open, will also make neat decoration for a dish of cold meat or a salad. The pastry bag and tube are useful in garnishing and decorating sweet dishes or cakes. Cream, whipped sohd and sweetened, or left plain as de- sired, and forced through the tube in the shape of stars or roses, or as a border around molds of jelly, appears very tempting and adds to the daintiness and food value of the dish. The pastry bag may be purchased ready made, or it may be made at home. It should be of heavy duck in cornucopia shape, with an opening at the end large enough to permit the tube to be placed in it. Tubes are of tin and may be plain or in star shape. When forcing the cream or whatever material is to be used through it, hold the bag in the right hand and guide it in the desired direction, pressing gently with the left 259 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK hand to force the contents through the opening in the tube. In making stars or roses, hold the bag in an upright position and force a small quantity of the contents straight down through the star tube. Then press the tube sharply into the very center of the flower and remove it quickly. Mashed potatoes forced through the tube about a planked steak or chicken, or spinach, squash, or any other vegetable used as a border for a meat dish by forcing it through the tube will add to both the appetizing qualities and appearance of the dish. Mayonnaise, made very stiff, may be so treated to ornament a salad ; meringues forced through the tube will decorate a pie, pudding, or a baked apple very daintily. Iced cakes are also ornamented by forcing stiff icing through the pastry tube in any form of decoration desired. Fresh flowers are often used for ornamenting creams, jelUes, custard, or blancmanges. A mold of blancmange chilled thoroughly, then turned out on a lace paper doily and having a sweet pea or two placed at the side will make a tempting des- sert for a summer luncheon. A green leaf or a bit of fern may also be used occasionally with good effect. Candied fruit is also effective when arranged neatly on frosted, iced cakes, cookies, puddings, or other des- serts. Cherries make the most easily managed fruit, though angelica soaked in boiling water and 260 GARNISHING AND DECORATING then cut in any desired form is also attractive, and citron sliced very thin and cut with the vegetable cutters into stars, disks, hearts, or flowers adds to the delectable appearance of small cakes. Blanched almonds, halved walnuts, pecans, or chopped peanuts are used as garnishes on cakes and sweet dishes. To blanch the almonds or walnuts, place the meats in a saucepan of cold water and bring rapidly to the boihng point. Then drain and plunge into cold water. Rub the walnuts be- tween coarse towels, and sUp the almond skins from them with the fingers. These nut meats may be placed in geometrical figures, in rows, or as pre- ferred on chocolate or mocha iced cakes, or they may be arranged on the cake batter just before placing it in the oven. Chopped nut meats sprinkled thickly over a coffee cake or braid before baking give a very dainty appearance to the finished prod- uct. Candies or bonbons are sometimes placed on cakes or sweet dishes as decorations, and this is a very good idea when a color scheme is to be carried out. Halved marshmallows may be used to decorate a simple pudding or a meringue, or they may be ar- ranged symmetrically on an iced cake. Paper frills, paper rosettes, and paper collars and doiUes are sold in many of the shops which deal in housefurnishing supplies. These little accessories dress the dishes on which they are used very neatly and effectively. The frills are made to fit ham bones, 261 CAROLINE KING'S COOK BOOK or to be placed on the ends of chops or on the drum sticks of chickens or turkeys; they are adjusted just before serving and are usually supplemented with a sprig of parsley, water cress, or the green tops from celery. [ Paper rosettes placed in the ends of croquettes, or in an upright position in individual souffles or cus- tards present a very neat appearance and are both inexpensive and easily arranged. Paper collars are placed about pudding dishes, pie plates, scalloped oysters, or any dish which is taken from the oven directly to the table. These collars may be had in various sizes to fit the small ramekin or the large pudding dish. If the housewife is possessed of imagination and originality, two most essential quaUties in a cook, she will be able to make almost any dish attractive with the materials that are to be found in every kitchen. A dash of paprika on a dish of mashed potatoes, or cinnamon and sugar scattered over the surface of a cake before it is baked, or a leaf or two from a geranium or some other plant in the kitchen window, will transform the simplest dish into one which is both dainty and tempting. 262 INDEX Accessories for Boiled Meats, 202 Allemande Sauce, 78 Angel Cake, Foundation for- mula for, 43 Apple Gingerbread, 42 Apples, Baked, 222 Sauted ■with salt pork, 229 Asparagus in Hollandaise sauce, 145 Omelet, 121 Sauce, 79 Au Gratin Dishes, 145 Baba Cakes, 14 Bacon Griddlecakes, 28 Mufans, 32 Omelet, 121 Baking, 217-222 Heat required for Bread, 218 for Cake, 219 for Pastry, 219 Testing oven for, 218 Banana Ice Cream, 171 Batters, 23-33 Cereal, 27 Foundation formuto for, 25,26 Kinds of, 24 Method of preparation, 25 Pancake, 27 B€arnaise Sauce, 86 Bechamel Sauce, 78 Beef, Braised, 206-207 Berry Muffins, 32 Biscuits, Emergency, 18 Bisque lee Cream, 171 Bisques, 71-72 Blancmange, 164-166 Chocolate, 166 Easter Pudding, 165 Fruit, 166 Golden, 166 Plain, 165 Principles of making, 164 Blueberry Pudding, Steamed, 185 Boiled Puddings. See Steamed Puddings Boiling, 197-209 Principles of, 201-206 Boston Brown Bread, 209 Braised Beef, 206-207 Meats, 136 Roast, 207 Steak, with Italian Spar ghetti, 207-208 Braising, 200, 206 Bread, 5-15 Foimdation formula for, 6 Baking, 7-8 Fancy, 10-11 Heat required for, 218 Methods of preparation, 6-7, 14-15 Nut, 20 Parched, for garnishing, 216 Bread Omelet, 119 Pudding, 174^177 Sticks, 10-11 263 INDEX Brioche, 13 Broiling, 212-213 Principles of, 213 Brown Bread, Boston, 209 Butter Cake, 37-38 Foundation formula for, 37 Icing, 107-108 Butterfly Salad, 99 Butterscotch Pudding, 176 Cabbage, How to cook, 149 Cake, S4r-4A Angel, Foundation formula for, 43 Method of preparation, 44 Baking of, 39 Butter, 34^36 Foundation formulsa for, 37,39 Ingredients of, 35 Method of mixing, 36-37 Heat required for baking, 219 Sponge, 35 Foundation formula for, 42 Method of preparation, 42 Varieties of, 44 Cakes : Angel, 43 Cherry, 51 Chocolate Loaf, 38 Devil's Food, 38 Fruit, 38 Nut, 38 Pound, 39 White, 39 Canning, 231-237 Cold-pack method, 232-233 Fruit, 236-237 Preparations for, 233-236 Canning, Preparing vegetables for, 234r-235 Principles of, 232 Caper Sauce, 85 Caramel Bread Pudding, 176 Charlotte, 159 Custard, 162 Ice Croam, 170 Icing, 111 Junket, 164 Carrots, Creamed, 152 in cream, 146 Celery Sauce, 78 Cereals, Principles of cooking, 202-203 in batter, 27 Chantilly Dressing, 95 Charlotte, Caramel, 159 Chocolate, 159 Coffee, 159 Cherry Cakes, 51 Cheese Gingerbread, 41 Omelet, 121 Puffs, 19, 57 Sauce, 77 Chestnut Ice Cream, 170 Chicken, Creamed, 80 Stewed, 205 Croquettes, 227 Liver Omelet, 121 Chiffonade Dressing, 95 Chocolate Blancmange, 166 Bread Pudding, 176 Charlotte, 159 Cookies, 23 Custard, 162 Doughnuts, 22 Fudge Icing, 112-113 Gingerbread, 42 Ice Cream, 170 Junket, 164 Loaf, 38 Meringue, 111 264 INDEX Chocolate Pie, 55 Pudding, Steamed, 185 Puffs, 57 Sauce, 191-192 Souffle, 188 Water Icing, 105 Chops, Deviled, -with mashed potatoes, 230 Pan Broiled, 229 ■with currant mint sauce, 230 Chou Paste, 46, 55 Foimdation formula for, 56 Method of preparation, 56 Chowders, Foundation formula for, 72 Method of preparation, 72- 73 Cinnamon Buns, 12-13 Puffs, 19 Toast, 215 Clarifying fat, 226 Cocoa Butter Icing, 108 Cocoanut Cookies, 23 Pudding, 176 Cocoa Sponge Cake, 43 Coffee, How to make, 204 Coffee Charlotte, 159 Custard, 162 lee Cream, 170 Icing, 105, 112 Jelly, 157 Souffle, 188 Cold-pack method of canning, 232-233 Consommg, 65 Conserves, 245-247 French, 246 Peach, 247 Pineapple, 246 Tutti Frutti, 246 Cooked Icings, 108-112 Cookies, Chocolate, 23 Cookies, Cocoanut, 23 Foundation formula for, 21 Corn-meal MufQns, 32 Cranberry Pudding, Steamed, 185 Creamed Chicken, 80 Eggs, 80 Mushrooms, 151 Oysters, 80 Peas and Carrots, 152 Potatoes, 80 Salmon, 80 Cream Pie, 55 Puffs, 56 Sauce, 190 Prinpiple of making, 191- 192 Soups, Foundation formula for, 68 Method of preparation, 68-69 Creole Eggplant, 151 Meat Loaf, 138 Sauce, 84 Soup, 64 Croquettes, 81 Chicken, 227 Rice, 227 Sweet, 254 Crouton Omelet, 121 Crullers, 21-22 Foimdation formula for, 21 French, 57 Jam, 22 Nut, 22 Cucumber Sauce, 85 Currant Jelly Sauce, 85 Currant Pie, 55 Custards, 160-162 Divisions of, 160 Principles of making, 160 Custards : Baked, 161 Boiled, 161 265 INDEX Custards : Caramel, 162 Chocolate, 162 Coflfee, 162 Floating Island, 162 Frozen, 169 Maple, 162 Custard Pie, 53-54, 220 Desserts, 153-186 Classes of, 154, 155 Cold, 155-166 Elements of, 154 Frozen, 166-173 Hot, 174-186 Principles of freezing, 173 Deviled Bread Crumbs, 255 Devil's Food, 38 Doughnuts, 21-22 Chocolate, 22 See also Cookies Doughs, 4^33 Baking-powder, 5, 16-33 Foundation formulas for, 6, 17, 18, 21 Ingredients of, 4, 16 Methods of preparation, 6-7, 14-15, 17-18, 22 Subclasses of, 4-5 Sweet, 10-11, 21 Types of, 4 Yeast, 4-15 Dresden Pudding, 158-159 Dressings, 87-107 Cooked, 96-98 Foundation formulae for, 90, 93, 96, 97, 98 French, 90-92 Ingredients of, 88-89 Methods of preparation, 90- 91, 93-94, 96-97 Mayonnaise, 88, 92-96 Types of, 88 Dressings, Salad : Chantilly, 95 Dressings : Chiffonade, 95 Fluffy, 96 French, with fruit juice, 91 Mayonnaise, 92-94 Parisian, 92 Roquefort, 92 Russian Salad, 95 Sauce Ravigote, 95 Sauce Tartare, 95 Sauce Tyrolienne, 95 Suffrage Salad, 98 Vinaigrette, 91 Duchess Potatoes, 144 Dumplings, 18 Easter Pudding, 165 Eclairs, 57 Egg and Crumbing, 253-254 Eggplant, Creole, 151 Egg Sauce, 77 Eggs, Creamed, 80 Principles of boiling, 203-204 Election Cake, 13-14 Emergency Biscuits, 18 Entire Wheat Flour, Use of, 27—28 MufBns, 31-32 Fats, How to clarify, 226 Figaro Sauce, 86 Fig Pudding, 180 Steamed, 186 Fillings, 112-114 Lady Baltimore, 110 Lemon Honey, 113 Marlborough, 113 Orange Honey, 113 Strawberry Cream, 113 Fish, Planked, 214 Floating Island, 162 Flour mixtures, 3-28 Foundation of, 4 Fluffy Dressing, 96 266 INDEX Foamy Sauce, 190 Foimdation f ormulsB for : Batters : Muffins, 31 Pop-overs, 30 Waffle, 25, 26 Cakes : Angel, 43 Butter, 37 Gingerbread, 40 Pound, 39 Sponge, 42-43 White, 39 Chowders, 72 CruUers and Cookies, '21 Dressings : Cooked, with 96 without oil, 97 Suffrage Salad, 98 French, 90 Mayonnaise, 93 Dough : Quick-raising, 18,21 Yeast, 6 Icings : Butter, 107 Boiled, 109 Caramel, 111 Soft, 106 Water, 104 Omelets, 116 French, 119 Pastry : Plain, 47 Chou Paste, 56 Puff Paste, 51 Sauces : Brown, 83 Thick White, 80 White, 76 Soups, Cream, 68 Stocks : Brown, 61 White, 66 See also Principles Frapp§, 169 French Conserve, 246 Crullers, 57 Sauce, 86 French Dressing, 90-92 Foundation formula for, 90 Method of preparation, 90-91 Fried Onions, 151 Fried Potatoes, 228 Omelet, 119 Rice Pudding, 180 Rice Chocolate Pudding, 181 Food materials, How to meas- ure, 248-249 oil, How to mix, 250-251 Rolling, 252-253 Molding, 253 Egg and Crumbing, 253- 255 Fritters, 28-29 17, Frizzled Beef Omelet, 121 Frozen Creams, 169-173 Frozen Desserts, Kinds of, 166-167 Water Ices, 167-169 Frozen Pudding, 171 Fruit, Baked, 221 Dried, principles of cook- ing, 203 How to can, 236 How to preserve, 239-240 Spiced, 244r-245 Fruit Blancmange, 166 Bread Pudding, 177 Butter, 244 Cake, 38 Fluff Icing, 107 Gingerbread, 41 loing, 105 Muffins, 32 Pies, 50 Pudding, 180 Steamed, 186, 209 Roly-Poly, 20-21 267 INDEX Fruit Sauce, 190, 191 Souffle, 188 Frying, 223-230 Deep-fat, 225-227 Medium for, 224 Principles of, 224 Garnishing, 256-262 Edible, 257-259 with candied fruits, 260 ■with flowers, 260 with nuts and candies, 261 with paper friUs, rosettes and ooUars, 261-262 with pastry bag and tube, 259-260 Gelatine Desserts, Foundation principles of, 156 Gems. See Muffins Gingerbread, 40-42 Foundation formula for, 40 Method of preparation, 40- 41 Gingerbread : Apple, 42 Cheese, 41 Chocolate, 42 Fruit, 41 Layer, 41 MarshmaUow, 41 Nut, 41 Gingerbread Pudding, 42 Golden Blancmange, 166 Goulash, 136 Graham Flour, Use of, 27-28 Graham MufSns, 31 Griddleeakes, Bacon, 28 Ham Omelet, 120 Hard Sauce, 189 Hollandaise Sauce, 85 Hot Cross Buns, 14 How to clarify fats, 226 How to make coffee, 204 Tea, 204 How to test an oven, 218 Ice Cream, 170-171 Banana, 171 Bisque, 171 Caramel, 170 Chestnut, 170 Chocolate, 170 Coffee, 170 Maple, 170 Philadelphia, 171 Raspberry, 170 Strawberry, 170 lees. Division of, 167 Foundation principles of, 167, 173 Method of freezing, 171-172 See also Ice Cream Ices: Frappe, 169 Frozen Custard, 169 Frozen Pudding, 171 Fruit Juice, 168 Ice Creams, 170-171 Lemon Water, 168 Punch, 169 Sherbets, 168-169 Water Ices, 167-169 Icings, 102-114 Cooked, 108-112 Foundation formulae for, 104, 106, 107, 109, 111 Methods of preparation, 104- 105, 106, 107, 109, 112 Subdivisions of, 104 Uncooked, 104^107 Varieties of, 103-104, 113- 114 Icings : Butter, 107, 108 Caramel, 111 Chocolate Meringue, 111 Chocolate Fudge, 112 268 INDEX loings : Chocolate Water, 105 Cocoa Butter, 108 Coffee, 105, 112 Fruit, 105 Fruit Fluff, 107 Ice Cream, 106 MarshmaUow, 111 Meringue,' 110 Maple, 112 Mocha Butter, 108 Nut, 112 Kneapple, 111 Soft, 105-106 Strawberry Butter, 108 Strawberry Meringue, 111 Water, 104 Irish Stew, 134 Italian Beef Loaf, 212 Onion Soup, 64-65 Jam Cbttllers, 22 Jams, 240-241 Principles of making, 240 Jellied fruits and nuts, 157 Jellies, How to make, 242-244 Principles of making, 242 Jelly : Coffee, 157 Dresden Pudding, 158-159 Lemon, 156 Russian, 156-157 Snow Pudding, 157 Spanish Cream, 158 JeUy Omelet, 118 Puffs, 19 Julienne Soup, 65 Junket, Caramel, 164 Chocolate, 164 Simplest, 163 Junkets, 163-164 Principles of making, 163 Lady Baltimore Filling, 110 Lamb Chops, Pan Broiled, 229 Layer Gingerbread, 41 Lemon Honey, 113 JeUy, 156 Meringue Pie, 54^55, 220 Sauce, 190 Liquid Sauces, Principles of making, 190-191 Lyonnaise Potatoes, 228-229 Macaroni, 80 Maltre d'h6tel Butter, 132 Maple Custard, 162 Ice Cream, 170 Icing, 112 Pudding, 177 Marlborough FiUing, 113 Marmalade, Principles of mak- ing, 241 MarshmaUow Gingerbread, 41 Icing, 111 Mayonnaise, 92-96 Foundation formula for, 93 Method of preparation, 93-94 Measurements, Table of, 250 Meat Pies, 20, 48 Method of preparation, 48 Pastry for, 46 Meats, 123-139 Accessories for boiled, 202 Classes of, 125-126 Cuts of, 129 How to serve, 131, 132 Nutrition in, 125-126 Preparation of, 129-130, 132-133 Principles of cooking, 126, 129, 131, 201, 215 Rules for broihng, 131-132 Rules for roasting, 129-133 Meringue, Strawberry, 111 Meringue Icing, 110 Meringues, 177-178 Principles of making, 177 269 INDEX Mixing Materials, 250-252 Beating, 250-251 Folding and cutting, 251 Kneading, 251-252 Rolling, 252 Stirring, 250 Mocha Butter Icing, 108 Molding, 253 Mousse, 83 Muffins and Gems, 31-33 Foundation formula for, 31 Method of preparation, 31 Muffins : Bacon, 32 Berry, 32 Corn-meal, 32 Fruit, 32 Oatmeal, 32 Nut, 20 Bice, 32 Rye, 32 Mushrooms, 150 Creamed, 151 SautSd with Bacon, 229 Mushroom Sauce, 84 Mutton Chops, 230 Napoleons, 50-51 Nun's Butter, 189 Nut Bread, 20 Cake, 38 CruUers, 22-23 Gingerbread, 41 Icing, 112 Muffins. 20 Pu£Es, 19 Oatmeal Muffins, 32 Olive Sauce, 85 Omelet Soufflg, 118 Omelets, 115-122 Forms of, 116 Foundation formulae for, 116, 119 Omelets, Methods of preparar tion, 117, 119-120, 122 Omelets: Asparagus, 121 Bacon, 121 Bread, 119 Cheese, 121 Chicken liver, 121 Crouton, 121 French, 119 Frizzled Beef, 121 Ham, 120 JeUy, 118 Oyster, 117-118 Rum, 118 Spanish, 120 Tomato, 120 Onions, French Fried, 151 Orange Honey, 113 Oyster Omelet, 117 Sauce, 78 Oysters, Creamed, 80 Fried, 227 Pan Broiling, 229-230 Pancakes, 27 See also Geiddlbcakes Parched Bread for garnishing, 216 Parching, 215 Parisian Dressing, 92 Parker House Rolls, 9-10 Parsley Sauce, 79 Pastry, Divisions of, 46 Chou, 46, 55 Foundation formula for, 56 Method of preparation, 56 Heat required for baking, 219 Plain, 47 Foundation formula for, 47 Method of preparation, 47-48, 49 270 INDEX Pastry, Puff, 51 Foundation formula for, 51 Method of preparation, 52-53 Pastry Shortcake, 55 Peach Conserve, 247 Pudding, Steamed, 185 Pears, Baked, 221 Peas, Creamed, 152 Philadelphia Ice Cream, 171 Pies, 45-^8 Method of preparation, 48 Pastry for meat, 20, 46 Pies : Chocolate, 55 Cream, 55 Custard, 53-54, 220 Fresh Currant, 55 Fruit, 50 Lemon Meringue, 54,. 220 One-crust, 48 Pumpkin or Squash, 220- 221 Squash, 54 Pineapple Conserve, 246 Icing, 111 Piquante Sauce, 84^85 Planked Fish, 214 Hamburg Steak, 137 Steak, 215 Planking, 214 Plum Pudding, 186 Pop-overs, 29 Foundation formula for, 30 Method of preparation, 30 Poor Man's Pudding, 179 Pork Chops, 230 Potato Salad, 101 Potatoes, Boiled for mashing, 144 Boiled in jackets, 144r-145 Creamed, 80 Delmonico, 80 Duchess, 144 Potatoes, French Fried, 228 Lyonnaise, 228 Pot Roast, 206-207 Pound Cake, Foundation for- mula for, 39 Preserving, 238-240 Principles of, 239 Principles of cookery, Founda- tion : Cereals, 202 Canning, 232 Desserts : Blancmange, 164 Custards, 160 Gelatine, 156 Junkets, 163 Puddings, 175, 179, 181, 184 Water ices, 167 Eggs, 203-204 Freezing cream, 173 Fruits, dried, 203 Frying, 224 Jam making, 240 Jelly making, 242 Marmalades, 241 Meats, 126 Boiling, 201 Broiling, 131, 213 Planking, 214 Roasting, 129, 211 Meringues, 177 Sauce, hard, 189 Preserving, 239 Vegetables, 142, 148, 203 dried, 203 Processes of cooking, 197-230 BoiUng, 197-209 Baking, 217-222 Frying, 223-230 Sauteing, 228-229 Pan broiling, 229-230 Roasting, 210-216 Stewing, 205 271 INDEX Prunes, Baked, 222 Puddings, Principles of mak- ing, 175, 179, 181, 184 Puddings: Blueberry, Steamed, 185 Bread, 174, 175-176 Boiled and Steamed, 183- 186 Butterscotch, 176 Caramel Bread, 176 Caramel Rice, 179 Chocolate Bread, 176 Steamed, 185 Cocoanut Bread, 176 Cranberry, Steamed, 185 Fig, 180 Steamed, 186 French Rice, 180 French Chocolate, 181 Fruit, 180 Steamed, 186 Fruit Bread, 177 Maple, 178 Peach, Steamed, 185 Plum, 186 Poor Man's, 179 Rice, 178-181 Suet, 185-186 Tapioca, 181-183 Tapioca Cocoanut, 183 Custard, 182 Fruit, 182 Meringue, 183 Pudding sauces, 188-192 Cream sauces, 191-192 Hard sauces, 189-190 Liquid sauces, 190-191 Principles of making, 189 Puff Balls, 57 Paste, 46 Foundation formula for, 51 Method of preparation, 52-53 Puffs, Cheese, 19, 57 Chocolate, 57 Cinnamon, 19 Cream, 56 Jelly, 19 Nut, 19 Pumpkin Pie, 220-221 Punch, 169 Purees, 70-71 Quince, Baked, 221 Ragouts, 135 Raspberries, How to can, 237 Raspberry lee Cream, 170 Rhubarb, 221 Rice Croquettes, 227 MufSns, 32 Puddings, 178-181 Principles of making, 179 Soup, 67 Roast, Braised, 207 Roasting, 210-216 Principle of, 211 Rolls, Preparation of, 8-9 Parker House, 9 Salad, 10 Roquefort Dressing, 92 Rosette Steaks, 139 Rum Omelet, 118 Rusks, 13 Russian Jelly, 156-157 Salad Dressing, 95 Rye MufBns, 32 Salad Dressinob. See Dsssa- INGS Salad RoUs, 10 Salads : k la Caroline, 100 Butterfly, 99 Potato, 101 Spring, 101 272 INDEX Salads : Tipperary, 100 Tomato, Stuffed, 100 Salmon, Creamed, 80 Sauces, Kinds of, 75, 76 roundation formula for, 76, 80, 83 Methods of preparation, 77, 80-81, 83-84 Subdivisions, 76 Uses of, 80, 81, 82, 83 Sauces : Allemande, 78 Asparagus, 79 B€arnaise, 86 Bechamel, 78 Brown, 83-84 Caper, 85 Celery, 78 Cheese, 77 Creole, 84 Cucumber, 85 Currant Jelly, 85 Drawn Butter, 85 Egg, 77 Figaro, 86 French, 86 HoUandaise, 85 Miscellaneous, 85-86 Mushrooms, 84 Olive, 85 Oyster, 78 Parsley, 79 Piquante, 84 Ravigote, 95 Soubise, 78 Spanish, 84 Tartare, 95 Thick White, 80 Tomato, 84 Tomato Cream, 79 TyroUenne, 95 Veloutg, 77 White, 76-77 Sauce, Pudding, 188-192 Sauce, Cream, 191-192 Chocolate, 191-192 Fruit, 191 YeUow, 191 Hard, 189 Fruit, 190 Nun's Butter, 189 Liquid, 190-192 Foamy, 190 Lemon, 190 Sauteing, 228-229 Scalloped vegetables, 146 Scones, 21 Sherbets, 168 Shortcake, 19 Pastry, 55 Sweet Strawberry, 38-39 Simmering, 200 Snow Pudding, 157 Soubise Sauce, 78 SouflBes, 81-82, 187, 188 Chocolate, 188 Coffee, 188 Fruit, 188 Plain, 187-188 Soups, Foundations of, 59-60 Foundation formulae for, 61, 66, 68 Methods of preparation, 61- 64, 66-67, 68-69 Subclasses of, 60, 68, 70, 71, 72 Uses of, 62, 67 Soups : Consommg; 65 Cream, 68 Creole, 64 EngUsh Tomato, 65-66 Italian Onion, 64r-65 Juhenne, 65 Rice, 67 Spring, 67 Soup Stocks, 60 Spaghetti, 80 Spanish Cream, 158 273 INDEX Spanish Omelet, 120 Sauce, 84 Sauce for Omelet, 120 Spiced fruits, 244^245 Spinach in Bechamel Sauce, 151 Sponge Cake, 42-43 Cocoa, 43 Foundation formulae for, 42, 43 White, 43 Spring Salad, 101 Soup, 67 Squash Pie, 54, 220-221 Steak with Spaghetti, Braised Round, 207-208 Steak Planked, 215 Steamed Puddings, 183-186 Principles of making, 184 Steamed Blueberry Pudding, 185 Chocolate Pudding, 185 Cranberry Pudding, 185 Fig Pudding, 186 Fruit Pudding, 186, 209 Peach Pudding, 185 Plum Pudding, 186 Steaming, 200, 208-209 Sterilization, 231, 233 Stewing of Meats, 200, 205 Stocks, Brown, 61-66 Foundation formula for, 61 Method of preparation, 61-64 Uses of, 62 White, Foundation formula for, 66 Method of preparation, 66-67 Uses of, 67 Strawberries, How to can, 236- 237 Strawberry Butter Icing, 108 Strawberry Cream, 113 Ice Cream, 170 Meringue, 111 Shortcake, 38 Tart, 58 Stuffed vegetables, 146-147 Suet Pudding, 185 Suffrage Salad Dressing, 98 Swedish Coffee Braid, 11-12 Swedish Tartlets, 51 Table op Meastjrembnts, 250 Tapioca Pudding, 181-183 Principles of making, 181 Tapioca Cocoanut Pudding, 183 Custard Pudding, 182 Fruit Pudding, 182 Meringue, 183 Tartare, Sauce, 95 Tarts, 51 Strawberry, 58 Tea, How to make, 204 Tinibales, 82 Tipperary Salad, 100 Toast, Cinnamon, 215 Toasting and Parching, 215 Tomatoes, How to cook, 150 Stewed, 150 Tomato Cream Sauce, 79 Omelet, 120 Salad, 100 Sauce, 84 Soup, BngUsh, 65-66 Turnovers, 19, 49 Tutti Frutti Conserve, 246 Vegetables, 140-152 h, la Jardiniere, 152 Classes of, 141 Composition of, 142 274 INDEX Vegetables, How to prepare for oanning, 234r-236 How to serve, 143-144 Principles of cooking, 142, 148, 203 ScaUoped, 146, 237 Stuffed, 146-147 Subdivisions, 141, 148 Unusual recipes, 151-152 Vegetable Soup, 65 Veloute Sauce, 79 Vinaigp-ette Dressing, 91 Wapples, 25-26 Foundation f ormulse for, 25, 26 White Cake, Foundation for- mula for, 39 Tbllow Sauce, 191 275