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 'J' HE ^NTHON J_,IBf\ARY. 
 
 COLLECTED BY CHARLES ANTHON, 
 
 Professor of Greek and Latin in 
 Columbia College. 
 
 Purchased by Cornell University, ISOS. 
 
^te Duo 
 
* 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 VARIOUS COUNTRIES 
 
 EUROPE ASIA AND AFRICA 
 
 E. D. CLARKE LL.D. 
 
 FART THE FIRST 
 
 RUSSIA TAHTARY AND TURKEY 
 
 ' ' / 
 
 FOURTH EDITION 
 
 VOLUME THE FIRST 
 
 LONDON 
 
 PRINTED FOR T. CADELL AND \V. DAVIES 
 
 IN THE STRAND 
 
 BY R. WATTS CROWN COURT TEMPLE BAR. 
 MDCCCXVI. 
 
 < 1 ? 
 
 i 
 
( 
 
 I 
 
 \ 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO THE 
 
 FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 Intelligence has lately reached the author 
 of a transaction connected with the First 
 Part of these Travels, which is so highly 
 honourable to the individual whom it concerns, 
 and to the Sovereign whom he represented, 
 that it is hoped every one, interested in 
 the character of the British Nation in foreign 
 countries, will be gratified by its insertion. It 
 was conveyed in a Latin letter from the Capital 
 of the Don Cossacks, written by Colonel Alexius 
 Papof, president and director of all their 
 scholastic institutions ; to the following purport. 
 
 Sir Gore Ouseley being upon his return from 
 Persia, where he had resided in his capacity of 
 British Ambassador to the Court of the Shah, 
 came to the Cossack Capital. Here he de- 
 spatched a messenger to Colonel Papof, inviting 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 that officer to his presence. Upon the Colonel's 
 arrival, Sir Gore Ouseley proceeded to state, that, 
 “ as the Representative of a British Sovereign, 
 he conceived it to be his duty to acknowledge 
 the disinterested hospitality shewn by the 
 Colonel, and by the Cossacks in general, to those 
 English travellers who had visited Tcherkask; 
 and therefore he begged to bestow upon his 
 family such a mark of his gratitude as it was 
 then in his power to offer.” Having accompanied 
 this declaration with a handsome present, Sir 
 Gore further gratified his guest, by translating, 
 from this work, all those passages which related 
 either to himself, or to his countrymen; until 
 the worthy Cossack, as he is kind enough to 
 confess, “ shed tears of delight.” 
 
 In relating a circumstance of this nature, an 
 author may easily be credited when he pro- 
 fesses himself not to be more indifferent to the 
 honour thereby conferred upon his work, than 
 to its general success 1 ; but no author will 
 
 (I) Notwithstanding a ferocious attack made upon it in an American 
 Review , it has passed through Three Editions in that country. The 
 Agents for the Russian Government caused the article which appeared 
 in the American Review, said to be written by a Russian, to be re- 
 printed, and inserted in one of the minor Journals of England. An 
 
 allusion 
 
TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 be so sensibly affected by the encouragement 
 he receives, as one who is conscious of wit- 
 nessing, in the favourable reception shewn to 
 his writings, the triumph of truth. Having 
 every reason to be convinced that they have 
 outlived the opposition made to them, in conse- 
 quence of the description given of the Russians, he 
 now confesses that, when he published the First 
 Part of his Travels, he was not politician enough 
 to be aware of the clamour it was likely to 
 excite. In shewing that his testimonies con- 
 cerning this people coincided with those of the 
 most reputable writers who had gone before 
 him 2 , he thought he had fulfilled an obligation 
 
 allusion to the Foreigyi Editions of this work having been introduced, 
 the author cannot avoid noticing; a French Translation of it, published 
 at Parts m 1813, in three volumes octavo; because it is accompanied 
 by Notes, said to have been inserted under the surveillance of Buona- 
 parte. Those Notes are evidently intended to persuade the Russian 
 Government oi the bad policy of an alliance with Great Britain : 
 the writer, perhaps, not being aware that this alliance is not so 
 much a matter of choice, as of necessity. French Notes explanatory of 
 the text of an English author are sometimes highly diverting: of this 
 ye 1,ave an instance in a Note, of the Edition now mentioned, upon 
 the words “ purlieus of St. Giles's which the French translator ex- 
 plains, b) sajing that they signify “ Cerlaines terrcs demembrees des 
 fords royales, el sur lesqueltes te proprUtaire a droit de chasse." Voy. 
 t°m.\. p. 163 , A’a/e (1) du Traducteur. Paris, 1813. 
 
 (*.) Even the eulogists of the Russian Government might be cited to 
 prove that the condition of the people does not differ from the account 
 given Of it in this work. “ The peasantry,” says Mr. Eton, “ look upon 
 j, 6 m0 " ardl as a divinity; styling him ( Zemnoi Bog) God op the 
 
 Rr H- (.See Eton s Survey of the Turkish Empire, p. 133.) It 
 
 remained 
 
advertisement to fourth edition. 
 
 to the public. Leaving, however, this point 
 to be decided by his adversaries; and their 
 harmless opposition, to the inevitable fate of 
 all political struggles, fitted only to serve the 
 interests of parly ; and, moreover, being called 
 upon for a Fourth Edition of the particular portion 
 of his work against which so much hostility was 
 levelled ; he has nothing more to say of it, than 
 that it is, at length, printed in a more commo- 
 dious form, and with every attention to accuracy 
 which repeated revision has enabled him to 
 bestow. 
 
 remained for Mr. Thornton (Present State of Turkey , vol.U.p.09. Note. 
 Land. 1809) to shew what were Mr. Eton’s real sentiments concerning 
 the Russian Government; by contrasting the observations he made 
 after the death of Catherine, with those which he had before published. 
 “ Two years,” observes Mr. Thornton, “ after writing an eulogium on 
 the Russian Government, Mr. Eton wrote his Postscript ; though both 
 were published together. The Empress Catherine was then dead; 
 and then we are told, “ that it is time the voice of truth shall 
 he heard.” — “It is only in foreign politics,” says Mr. Eton, “that she 
 (Catherine) appears great: as to the internal government of the 
 (Russian) Empire, a most scandalous negligence, and a general corrup- 
 tion in the management of affairs, was visible, in every department, 
 from Petersburg to Kamchatka." 
 
 Cambridge , Jan. I. 1816. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO 
 
 THE THIRD QUARTO EDITION OF 
 PART THE FIRST. 
 
 A third Edition of the First Part of these 
 Travels, within the short space of time that 
 has elapsed since its original publication, may- 
 be considered as affording a good practical 
 answer to certain objections which have been 
 made against it. Whether this presumption 
 be true or false, the author ventures, upon 
 such encouragement, to proceed with the rest 
 of the work according to his original plan. 
 
 In the present Edition, the text has been 
 revised : the account given of the state of the 
 society in Russia has been suffered to remain 
 nearly as it was printed in the former Editions, 
 and as it was written upon the spot. 
 
 Trumpington, near Cambridge, 
 May 1, 1813. 
 

 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO 
 
 THE SECOND QUARTO EDITION OP 
 PART THE FIRST. 
 
 In the present Edition, some verbal corrections 
 will be found in various passages. Some addi- 
 tions have also been made; and it is hoped that 
 they will add to the general interest excited by 
 the work. The Notes, in certain instances, have 
 been augmented, and the number of Inscriptions 
 increased, by very valuable communications 
 from Charles Kelsall, Esq. of Trinity College, 
 Cambridge, who lately pursued a similar route 
 to that of the author, in the South of Russia. 
 Robert Corner, Esq. of Malta, has also obligingly 
 added to the Appendix, an important article 
 concerning the Internal Navigation of the Russian 
 Empire'. 
 
 After the fullest and most impartial conside- 
 ration, the author is contented to rest the truth 
 
 (l) See the Appendix to this Volume. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 and validity of his remarks, concerning the 
 Russian character, upon the evidence afforded by 
 almost every enlightened Traveller who has 
 preceded him. In addition to their testimony, 
 the unpublished observations of the late Lord 
 Royston' may be adduced, to shew that, sub- 
 sequently to the author’s travels, and under 
 happier auspices of government in Russia, the 
 state of society appeared to that gifted young 
 Nobleman, as it has been described in the follow- 
 ing pages. Lord Royston, when writing to an 
 
 (1) The kindness of the Earl of Hardwickc authorizes this allusion 
 to his Son’s Letters. Lord Royston’s name carries with it a claim to 
 public consideration. Although the knowledge of his great acquire- 
 ments had scarcely transpired beyond the circle of his Academical 
 acquaintance, his erudition was regarded, even hy a PorsoN, with 
 wonder. The loss sustained hy his death can never be retrieved ; but 
 some consolation is derived from the consciousness that all the fruits of 
 his literary labours have not been annihilated. The sublime prophecy 
 of his own Cassandra, uttering “ a parable of other times,” will yet be 
 heard; in his native language, shewing “ her dark speech, and thus 
 pourtraying his melancholy end. 
 
 “ Ye cliffs of Zarax, and ye waves which wash 
 Opheltes’ crags, and melancholy shore, 
 y e rocks of Trychas, Nedon’s dangerous heights, 
 
 Dirphossinn ridges, and Diacrian caves, 
 
 Ye plains where l’horcyn broods upon the deep, 
 
 And founds his floating palaces, what sobs 
 Of dying men shall ye not hear? what groans 
 Of masts and wrecks, all crashing in the wind ? 
 
 What mighty waters, whose receding waves 
 Bursting shall rive the continents of earth? 
 
 Viscount Royston' s Cassandra, }’■ 28. 
 
TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 accomplished friend, who was snatched from 
 the pursuit of worldly honours by a fate as 
 untimely, although not so sudden as his own 2 , 
 thus briefly, but emphatically, characterizes the 
 state of refinement in the two great cities of the 
 Russian Empire 3 . “ A journey from Petersburg 
 to Moscow is a journey from Europe to Asia. 
 With respect to the society of the former city, 
 
 I am almost ashamed to state my opinion, after 
 the stubborn fact ol my having twice returned 
 thither, each time at the expense of a thousand 
 miles : but although I had not imagined it pos- 
 sible that any place could exist more devoid of 
 the means of enjoying rational conversation, I 
 am now, since my residence here, become of 
 a different opinion. Not that I have not been 
 excessively interested, both during this and 
 my former visit to Moscoio. The feudal magni- 
 ficence of the nobility, the Asiatic dress and 
 manners of the common people, the mixture 
 of nations to be seen here, the immensity, 
 the variety, and the singular architecture 
 of the city, present, altogether, a most curious 
 
 ( 2 ) Rev. G. D. IVhittington, author of an “ Historical Survey of 
 Gothic Architecture,” published since his death by certain of his distin- 
 guished friends. See the elegant tribute to his memory, in a Preface 
 t-o that work, by the Earl of Aberdeen. 
 
 (1) This Letter is dated, Moscow, April 13 th, 1809. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 and amusing assemblage.” In a former part of 
 the same Letter, the inattention of the superior 
 Clergy to the religion of the lower orders, is 
 forcibly illustrated. The words are as follow : 
 
 “ You have probably received some account of 
 my journey to Archangel ; of my movement 
 thence, in a north-easterly direction, to Mezen ; 
 of the distinguished reception I received from 
 the Mayor of that highly-civilized' city, who 
 made me a speech in Russian, three-quarters of an 
 hour long; of my procuring, there, twelve rein- 
 deer, and proceeding towards the Frozen Ocean, 
 until I found a Samoied camp in the desert, 
 between the rivers Mezen and Petchora ; and of 
 my ascertaining, that that nation, which extends 
 over almost all the North of Russia, remains still 
 in a state of Paganism ; a circumstance, of which 
 the Archbishop of the diocese was ignorant.” 
 
 The description, given in this work, of the 
 miserable condition of the Russian peasants, and 
 of the scarcity of provisions in the interior of 
 the country, has been disputed. Let us now 
 therefore see what Lord Royston lias said upon 
 this part of the subject. It is contained in a 
 
 (1) So marked in the original. 
 
TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 Letter to Mr. Whittington, from Casan, dated 
 May l6th, J 807 . “I left Moscow on Tuesday 
 the 5th of May ; and the first town at which I 
 arrived was Vladimir, formerly the capital of an 
 independent sovereignty, and the residence of a 
 Grand Duke. The accommodations are such as 
 are alone to be met with all over Muscovy ; one 
 room, in which you sleep with the whole family, 
 in the midst of a most suffocating heat and smell ; 
 no furniture to be found, but a bench and table ; 
 and an absolute dearth of provisions .” 
 
 In the Extracts, added to the Notes, from Mr. 
 Heber's Journal, there are certain observations 
 which are said to be at variance with the remarks 
 in the Text ; but it is hardly necessary to add, 
 that they were introduced for this especial 
 reason. Some persons have also insinuated, 
 that the author has accused the Russians of 
 want of hospitality ; although the very reverse 
 may be proved from his writings. In describing 
 the reception which he experienced at Moscoiv, 
 he lays particular stress upon the hospitality of 
 the inhabitants ; “ although ,” to use his own 
 words in the Fourth Chapter of the present 
 Volume, “ it ivas considered dangerous at that time to 
 have the character of hospitality towards Englishmen." 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 He also cites a passage, in the Notes, from 
 a French work of celebrity, to prove, with 
 reference to Moscow, that Vhospitalite des Russes 
 paroit ici dans tout son jour. Another extract 
 from Lord Roys tons Letters will shew, that the 
 same characteristic of the inhabitants was ob- 
 served by his Lordship; although, as he expressly 
 declares, it did not alter his “ general opinion ’ 
 of the people. It is taken from a Letter to the 
 Right Honourable Charles Yorhe, dated Moscow, 
 May 5th, ] 807 . “ Notwithstanding all the plea- 
 
 sure I promise myself from my tour, I shall be 
 sorry to leave Moscow : the hospitality of the 
 people is very great ; and it is unpleasant to be 
 always forming new and agreeable acquaintance, 
 with the expectation of shortly leaving them, 
 and the probability of never seeing them again. 
 On leaving Petersburg, notwithstanding my ge- 
 neral opinion, I felt very strongly how painful 
 it is, to quit, for ever, a place in which we have 
 resided for some time ; and believe it was solely 
 that feeling which caused me to return thither 
 from Moscow .” 
 
 Indeed it may be urged, that even those 
 Authors who endeavour to present a favourable 
 view of the Russian people, and who strain every 
 
TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 effoit to accomplish the undertaking, are con- 
 tinually betraying the hidden reality. Their 
 pages, like embroidered vestments upon the 
 priests of Moscow, disclose, with every gust that 
 separates them, the rags and wretchedness they 
 were intended to conceal'. Nor is it only in 
 those periods of Russian history when hostility 
 threw oft the veil, and enabled other nations to 
 observe the real disposition of the people towards 
 every country but their own, that their character 
 has been thus manifested. It is alike displayed 
 m peace or war ; in circumstances of seeming 
 civilization, or of acknowledged barbarism ; in 
 the reign of Peter, or of Catherine; under the 
 tyranny of Paul, or the mild government of 
 Alexander. These are facts, indeed, which a 
 traveller may withhold : lie may say, with Fonte- 
 nelle, “ If 1 had my hand full of truths, I would not 
 suffer one of them to escape ; or, like Voltaire, 
 he may wait “ until he has leisure to methodize 
 
 (0 You can hardly imagine any thing more showy than the appear- 
 ance of the priests of these churches on their festival days. But if the 
 od should chance to blow aside the sacred vestment, you would 
 pro ably feel a degree of disgust not easily described, at seeing shoes 
 dockings, and breeches, and shirt, of the coarsest materials, gene- 
 ra y ragged, and always dirty, appearing from under robes of the most 
 Per and costly embroidery.” Letters from Scandinavia, vol.l.p.Tl. 
 
 I7gg t r 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 events," prior to their communication : but if he 
 expect credit to be given, when he tells the 
 theme of praise, when all that “ is lovely and 
 of good report” claims its due regard, it is not 
 from such philosophy, that he can hope for its 
 acquirement \ 
 
 At all events, the subject, as far as the author 
 is concerned, shall now rest. Another portion 
 of his Travels, describing objects of a more 
 pleasing nature, diverts his attention from 
 Scythian wilds and from all their fur-clad tribes; 
 from uniformity of scenery and of disposition, to 
 regions highly diversified, and to human-nature 
 under every circumstance of character; from 
 wide and barren plains, to varied territories 
 “ flowing with milk and honey;” from rivers, 
 and lakes, and stagnant waters, to seas traversed 
 by “ men out of every nation under heaven ; 
 “ Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites, and 
 
 “ THE DWELLERS IN MESOPOTAMIA, AND IN 
 
 (I) “ Even tbe Author of the History of Charles XII. of Peter I. 
 and of the age of Louis XIV. was of opinion, that it was of greater 
 importance to say what is useful than what is true; as if what was 
 false could ever he useful ! In a Letter to Count Schuvalof, he says, 
 ‘ Until I have leisure to methodize the terrible event of the death of the 
 Tsarevitch, I have begun another work.' Is this Ute language of a 
 philosophical historian ?” Mem. of the Court of Petersburg, />. 81. 
 
TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 Judea, and in Cappadocia, in Pontus, and 
 Asia, Phrygia, and Pamphylia, in Egypt, 
 
 AND IN THE PARTS OF LyBIA, ABOUT CyHENE, 
 
 and strangers of Rome, Jews and pros- 
 “ elytes, Cretes, and Arabians.” 
 
 vo l. i. 
 
 b 
 
• • ' 
 
 
 
 
 
PREFACE 
 
 TO 
 
 PART THE FIRST. 
 
 In presenting the First Part of his Travels 
 to the Public, the author is desirous to explain 
 the general extent of his undertaking 
 
 o 
 
 His design is, to complete, in three separate 
 Parts, a series of Travels, in Europe, Asia, 
 and Africa; so that each portion, consisting of 
 one, or more, volumes, may constitute a survey 
 of some particular region. ‘ Thus, for example, 
 the Part now published, relates to Travels in 
 Russia, Takary, and Turkey ; a Second Part 
 
 may include the observations collected in Greece, 
 bgypt> and Palestine; and, finally, a Third 
 Part, those objects which were presented in 
 ■Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Lapland, and Finland. 
 Put, in order to accomplish so extensive an 
 undertaking, some indulgence is required to 
 the manner of its execution ; some credit for a 
 better disposition towards his fellow-creatures, 
 than the author s severe penance in Russia may 
 eem *° have excited. It is not so generally 
 
 b 2 
 
11 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 known as it may be, that the passage of a small 
 rivulet, which separated the two countries of 
 Sweden and Russia, at the period of the author s 
 iourney, and before the dismemberment of 
 Finland, the mere crossing of a bridge, con- 
 ducted the traveller from all that adorns and 
 dignifies the human mind, to whatsoever, most 
 abject, has been found to degrade it. If, there- 
 fore, the late Empress and Autocrat of all the 
 Russias, Catherine the Second, could find a 
 Folney, who would prostitute his venal pen to 
 varnish the deformities of her reign and of her 
 empire ; if Potemkin did not want an apologist, 
 and an advocate, even among the Writers ot 
 this country ; Great Britain will forgive the 
 frankness of one, among her sons, who has 
 ventured, although bluntly, to speak the truth. 
 It is a language not wholly obscured in the 
 more cautious descriptions ot former Writers. 
 Tuhervile, of England ; Augustine, of Germany ; 
 Olearius, of Denmark ; and, more recently, the 
 Abbe de la Chappe, of France, together with the 
 authors of many anonymous productions, re- 
 present the real character of the people, in 
 colours, which neither the antidote of Aleksye 
 Mitsine Puchkine, the drivellings 1 of Voltaire, nor 
 
 (I) See Voltaire's Correspondence with the Empress Catherine, ii* 
 the latter part of his life. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 ill 
 
 all the hired deceptions of French philosophers 
 and savans, have been able to wipe away* *. 
 
 A few words, by way of acknowledgment, to 
 those who have contributed to the accomplish- 
 ment of the present undertaking, it is hoped, 
 will not be deemed superfluous : at the same 
 time, it is not necessary to repeat expressions 
 which occur in the following pages. With 
 the exception, therefore, of Lord Whitworth, 
 whose respectable name the author here begs 
 leave to introduce, no repetition will be offered. 
 To his kindness, while Ambassador at Petersburg, 
 the very existence of the First Part of this 
 work may be ascribed ; and his character ought 
 to stand recorded, in having afforded, as an 
 English Minister, the very rare example of 
 liberal patronage to his travelling countrymen, 
 during the whole of his embassy. 
 
 (2) “ Omnes enim passim, cujuseunque conditions sint, nullo rc- 
 spectu personarum habito, durissimit servitute premuntur. Nobiles, 
 magnates, prafecti, primoies, cousiliariique uuiversi, se chlopos, id 
 est, abjectissimos ct vilissimos servo* Magni Ducis fatentur; et bona 
 sua omnia, mobilia et itr.mobilia, qua: possident, non sua, sed Prin- 
 cipis esse agnoscunt. Uc autem cquestris ordo it Magno Duce, ita 
 enim plebeius ordo it Nobilihus ct Magnatibus gravissimi! premitur : 
 
 • olonorum enim et oppidanorum bona, militarium hominum et Nobi- 
 lium praeda: exposita sunt. Sex dies coloni in septimana dominis suis 
 laborant ; Septimus dies privato labor! eonceditur. Neque hi strenufi 
 laborant, nisi bene verterati.” Descriptio Afoscovia. L. Rat. 1000. 
 
IV 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 In the course of the subsequent narrative, the 
 author has generally used a plural expression, 
 even with reference to his own personal obser- 
 vations. This mode of writing was adopted, 
 not solely, with a view to divest his style of 
 egotism, but in allusion to his friend, the cause 
 and companion of his travels, John Marten 
 Cripps, M.A. of Jesus College, Cambridge; whose 
 unceasing ardour in prosecuting every enter- 
 prise, added to the mildness and suavity of his 
 manners, endeared him to the inhabitants oi every 
 country he visited. The constancy and firm- 
 ness which he preserved through all the trials 
 and privations of a long and arduous journey 
 as well as the support which he rendered to 
 the author, in hours of painful and dangerous 
 sickness, demand the warmest expressions of 
 gratitude. The Plants collected during the route 
 were the result of their mutual labour ; but the 
 whole of the Meteorological Statement in the 
 Appendix ', together with the account given of 
 Relays and Distances 1 2 , are due to his patient 
 observation and industry. 
 
 To the Rev. Reginald Heber, late Fellow of 
 All-Souls College, Oxford, the author is indebted 
 
 (1) See the Appendix to Vols. II. IV. VI. & VIII. 
 
 (2) Ibid. 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 for the valuable Manuscript Journal which 
 afforded the extracts given in the Notes. In 
 addition to Mr. Hebers habitual accuracy, may 
 be mentioned the statistical information, which 
 stamps a peculiar value on his observations : 
 this has enriched the volume by communica- 
 tions which the author himself was incompetent 
 to supply. 
 
 To Aylmer Bourke Lambert, Esq. Fellow 
 of the Royal, Antiquarian, and Linnsean Socie- 
 ties, author of several Botanical writings, and, 
 among others, of a splendid work on the 
 Genus Pinus, as well as possessor of the finest 
 Herbarium in Europe, for his kindness in 
 arranging the Plants collected in the Crimea, 
 and in preparing a List of them for the 
 Appendix \ 
 
 If the Vignettes prefixed to the several Chap- 
 ters, answer the purpose for which they were 
 intended, by exhibiting, within a small compass. 
 
 (3) See dppendiv to Vol. II. Mr, Lambert is the present possessor of 
 the celebrated Herbarium of Pallas , purchased by Mr. Cripps during 
 his residence with the Professor, and brought to England , in the 
 Braakel , by the author's brother, the late Captain George Clarke, of 
 the Royal Navy, A. D. 1805. 
 
VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 and in the least obtrusive manner, objects re- 
 ferred to in the text, — the merit is solely due to 
 her, whose name appears occasionally annexed 
 to those Designs, and who, from the rudest 
 documents, has afforded an elegant and faithful 
 representation of truth. 
 
 Notwithstanding the care bestowed upon the 
 accuracy of the text, it is highly probable that 
 some errors have escaped the author s notice. 
 Should this prove to be the case, it is hoped that 
 the Public will overlook defects in the style of a 
 mere writer of travels ; from which the more 
 responsible pages of an Addison, a Steele, and 
 a Gibbon, have not been found exempt. In the 
 progress of transcribing a journal written in a 
 foreign land, remote from scenes of literature, 
 more attention was often given to fidelity of 
 extract, than to elegance, or even purity of 
 composition. 
 
 The unsettled state of English orthography, 
 as far as it affects the introduction of Russian 
 names, produces considerable embarrassment 
 to the writer who wishes to follow a fixed rule. 
 Upon this subject it not only happens that no 
 two authors agree, but that the same author is 
 inconsistent. Jonas Han way, whose writings are 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 vn 
 
 more accurate than those of any other English 
 traveller who has visited Russia, may be con- 
 sidered as affording, perhaps, the best model 
 in this respect: but Hanway himself is not 
 
 consistent 1 . 
 
 In the Russian alphabet there is no letter 
 answering to our W; yet we write Moscow, and 
 Woronetz. Where custom has long sanctioned 
 an abuse of this kind, the established mode 
 seems preferable to any deviation which may 
 wear the appearance of pedantry. The author 
 has, in this respect, been guided by the autho- 
 rity and example of Gibbon; who affirms 8 , that 
 “ some words, notoriously corrupt, are fixed, 
 and as it were naturalized, in the vulgar tongue. 
 The Prophet Mohammed can no longer be strip- 
 ped ot the famous, though improper, appellation 
 of Mahomet; the well-known cities of Aleppo, 
 Damascus, and Cairo, would almost be lost in 
 the strange descriptions of Haleb, Damashk, and 
 Al Cahira. But, it may be fairly asked, where 
 is the line to be drawn ? What are the Russian 
 
 (t) The name of the same place is written Kieva in vol. I. p, 9. 
 Kkieva in p. 15, and Khiva in a note. Nagai Tartars, in p. 8. vol. I. 
 are written iVagay Tartars in p. 1 1. Throughout his work, the termi- 
 nating vowel is sometimes i, and as often y; as, f ’ahtai, pmlerosmi, and 
 xGkutsly, JVasorowsky. 
 
 i*.S. to Pref. ch. xxxix. Hist, of the Decline and Fall, &e. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 names, which we are to consider as fixed and, 
 naturalized in the vulgar tongue ? Are we to write 
 Woronetz, or Voroneje ; IVolga, or Folga ; Kiow, 
 or Kiofi; Azow, or Azof? Lord Whitworth wrote 
 Chiojf and Asoph, although both these names 
 have the same original termination . It is the 
 B ( Fedy ) redoubled in compound words, which 
 occasions the principal difficulty, and which has 
 been confounded with our W. Thus, as it is 
 mentioned by Stored, from Levesque, the Russian 
 word Vvedenic, signifying ‘ introduction,' consists 
 of the preposition to or v (into), and vldenie ( to 
 conduct). The proper initial letter in English, 
 therefore, for this word, would be V, whose 
 power it alone possesses ; and not JV, which 
 conveys a false idea of pronunciation. When 
 this compound occurs as the termination of a 
 word, it is best expressed by our f; as Orlof, 
 for Or low; which exactly answers the mode of 
 pronunciation in Russia. Some writers use the 
 letter doubled, as ff : the latter f is however 
 superfluous. The plan pursued by the author, 
 but to which, perhaps, he has not regularly 
 adhered, was to substitute a Vior the Russian 
 
 (1) Account of Russia , by Charles Lord IVUitworth. Strawberry 
 Hill y 1758. 
 
 (2) Tableau de l’Empire de Russie, tom. I. p. 19* See also Histmre 
 de Russie par Levesque, tom A. p, 17. Hamb. 1800. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IX 
 
 P V, whenever it occurs at the beginning, or in 
 the middle, of a word ; and an f whenever it is 
 found as a termination. 
 
 There is yet another letter of the Russian 
 alphabet, which, from its frequent recurrence 
 as an initial, requires a perfect reconciliation to 
 some settled law of English orthography; viz. 
 the TcMrve : this has the power of our ch, in 
 cheese and child, and occurs in the name of the 
 Cossacks of the Black Sea, Tchernomorski. With 
 regard to words terminating in ai and oi, as 
 V ildai, Paulovskoi, perhaps it would be well to 
 substitute ay and oy, as Valday, Paulovskoy ; or 
 1J on *y. as Faldy, Paulovsky ; which last offers a 
 close imitation of the vulgar mode of pronun- 
 ciation in general : but the variety caused by 
 different dialects, in different parts of the 
 empire, will, after every attention is paid to a 
 settled rule of writing, occasion frequent per- 
 plexity and embarrassment. 
 
 In the orthography of the names of places 
 immediately south of Moscoiv, frequent attention 
 was paid to the Map of Reymann, published by 
 Schmidt', at Berlin, in 1802. But even in that 
 map, the territories of the Don Cossacks, Kuban 
 Tartary, and the Crimea, appear only as a 
 forlorn blank. Many years may expire before 
 
X 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 Russia, like Sweden, will possess a Hermeun, 
 to illustrate the geography of the remote pro- 
 vinces of her empire; especially as it is a maxim 
 in her policy, to maintain the ignorance which 
 prevails in Europe, concerning those parts of 
 her dominions. On this account, the indecision, 
 which must appear in the perusal of this volume, 
 to characterize the description ol the country 
 between Biroslaf and Odessa, admits of expla- 
 nation. The geography of all that district is 
 little known; the courses of the Dniester, the 
 Bog, and the Dnieper, as w r ell as the latitude 
 and soundings of the coast near their em- 
 bouchures, have never been adequately sur- 
 veyed. The only tolerable charts are preserved 
 by the Russian Government, but sedulously 
 secreted from the eyes of Europe. It has 
 however fallen to the authors lot, to interfere, 
 in some degree, with this part of its political 
 system, by depositing within a. British Admi- 
 ralty certain documents, which were a subse- 
 quent acquisition, made during his residence in 
 Odessa. These he conveyed from that country, 
 at the hazard of his life. They are too volu- 
 minous for insertion in the work, but may seive 
 to facilitate the navigation ot the Russian coasts 
 of the Black Sea, if ever the welfare of Great 
 Britain should demand the presence of hei 
 fleets in that part of the world. In making this 
 
XI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 addition to our stock of knowledge, for the use 
 of our navy, no ties of confidence, or of honour, 
 were broken with a people who have violated 
 every engagement with this country. Those 
 documents were entrusted to the author by 
 persons fully authorized to concede the infor- 
 mation, and their injunctions have been sacredly 
 obeyed. 
 
TABLE OF RUSSIAN MONEY. 
 
 1 Denga, or Denushka - - - - equals \ a Copeek: 
 
 1 Polushka, the smallest coin of Russia = % Do. 
 
 The Polushka takes its name from a hare-skin, Ushka 
 (which, before the use of money, was one of the lowest articles 
 of exchange); Pol signifying half; and Polushka, half a hare's 
 skin. 
 
 The gold coinage of Russia is scarcely ever seen. It consists 
 principally of ducats, the first of which were struck by Peter 
 the Great, worth two roubles and twenty-five copeeks each. 
 When the author was in Petersburg, a coinage was going on 
 at the mint, day and night, for the private use of the Emperor 
 Paul, of seventy-three pouds of gold ; the whole of which was 
 juade into ducats. The mint was worked by steam-engines. 
 
LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS AND MAPS 
 
 CONTAINED IN 
 
 VOLUME THE FIE ST, 
 
 TO SERVE AS DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 
 
 A newly engraved Portrait of the Author . . to face the Title, 
 General Outline of the Author’s Route ... to face Chap. I. 
 
 Map of the Mouths of the Don .... p. 339, 
 
 Map of the Situation of Tcherkask . . . . p. 348. 
 
 LIST OF THE VIGNETTES 
 
 IN VOLUME THE FIRST. 
 
 THE VIGNETTES ARE ENGRAVED ON WOOD, BY AUSTIN. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 No* Pa*** 
 
 X. Profile of the Emperor Paul, from a Drawing by 
 
 E. D. Clarke 1 
 
 2. Crystallization of Water , 13 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 3. Arms of Novogorod . . . 14 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 4. Window of a Russian Cottage 32 
 
 5. Stockings used by Female Peasants of the Valday . 44 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 6. Archbishop of Moscow at the Ceremony of the 
 
 Resurrection 58 
 
 7. Gipsies dancing the Barina ,80 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 C 
 
VIGNETTES TO THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 No. 
 
 8 . 
 
 10 . 
 
 11 . 
 
 12 . 
 
 13. 
 
 14. 
 
 15. 
 
 16. 
 
 17. 
 
 18. 
 
 19. 
 
 20 . 
 fil. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 ' Pape 
 
 Gate of Moscow 8(5 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Arms of the City of Moscow ....... 107 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Plan of the City of Moscow 140 
 
 Great Gun of Moscow 1^4 
 
 Facsimile of the Hand-writing of Peter the 
 
 Great 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 A Russian Drosky 171 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 The Rustic Pipes of Russia 193 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 The sort of Sandal common to all the Northern 
 
 Nations 227 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Antient Tumuli, as they appear covering the Steppes, 260 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Manner in which the Author, and his Companion, 
 
 traversed the Steppes of Russia 297 
 
 Portrait of a Calmuck Woman . ..... 317 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Double Canoe, used by the Don Cossacks . . . 343 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Hamaxolii of Herodotus, as seen at the present day, 395 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Map of the proposed Junction of the Rivers P'olga 
 and Don 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS 
 
 TO PART THE FIRST, 
 
 VOLUME THE FIRST. 
 
 Advertisements to the Fourth, Third, and Second Editions. 
 Preface to the First Edition. 
 
 Tables of Russian Measure, Weight, and Money. 
 
 List of Embellishments, Maps, and Fignetles. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 P. i. 
 
 PETERSBURG. 
 
 Preliminary Observations — State of public affairs — Strange 
 conduct of the Emperor — Insolence of the police — Extraordi- 
 nary phenomenon. 
 
 CHAP. H. 
 
 P. 14. t 
 
 JOURNEY FROM PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. 
 
 Departure from Petersburg — Manner of travelling — Palace of 
 Tsarskoselo — Gardens — Anecdote of Billings’s expedition to 
 the North-west Coast of America — Ledyard — Barbarous 
 decoration of the apartments — Arrival at Novogorod — 
 Cathedral — Antient Greek paintings — Manner of imitating 
 them in Russia — Superstitions of the Greek Church — Virgin 
 with three hands — Story of her origin — Russian Bogh. 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTNETS. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 P. 31. 
 
 NOVOGOROD. 
 
 Antient history of Novogorod — First churches in Russia — 
 Procopius — Evagrius — Baptism of Olga, afterwards Helena 
 —Arms of Novogorod— Ceremony of crossing — Cjeneral 
 picture of this route — Heights of Valday — Costume Tumuli 
 — Jedrova — Domestic manners of the peasants Servile 
 state of the empire — Vyshney Voloshok — Torshok — Tver — 
 Milanese vagrants— Volga — Tumuli — Klin' Petrovsky— 
 Arrival at Moscow— Police — Accommodations. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 P. 53. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Peculiarities of climate — Impressions made on a first arrival — 
 Russian hotel — Persian, Kirgissian, and Bucharian ambas- 
 sadors — Fasts and Festivals — Ceremonies observed at Easter 
 — Palm Sunday — Holy Thursday — Magnificent ceremony of 
 the Resurrection — Excesses of the populace — Presentation of 
 the Paschal eggs — Ball of the peasants — Ball of the nobles 
 —Characteristic incident of caprice in dress. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 P. 86. 
 
 MOSCOW, 
 
 Surprising talent of imitation among the Russians — Remarkable 
 fraud practised by a native artist — Booksellers— State of 
 literature — Libraries of the nobles — Equipages — Costume of 
 the Bourgeoisie — Amusements of the people — Chapel of the 
 Tverschaia — Miracles wrought there — Nature of the impos- 
 ture — Artifice of a merchant — Assassination of an archbishop 
 — Motive for the worship of pictures— Resemblance between 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Russians and Neapolitans — IVives of the nobles — Conduct of 
 their husbands — Children of Orlof — Princess Menxikof — 
 Retributive spirit exercised by the Emperor at the funeral of 
 his mother. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 P. 107. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 State of exiles in Siberia — To bolshy — Generous conduct of a 
 citizen — Prince turned pawnbroker — Picture-dealers — Stale 
 of medicine — Manners of the people — Opinions entertained 
 of the English — Relative condition of slaves and their lords 
 — Noble behaviour of Count Golovkin's peasants — Servants 
 of the nobility — Theft committed by a parly of the nobles — 
 Convent of the New Jerusalem — New prohibitions — Public 
 censors — Convent of the Trinity — Church of St. Basil — Ivan 
 Basilovich — Tubervile’s Letters. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 P. 140. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Sunday market — Promenades during Easter — Kremlin — Holy 
 Gate — Great Bell — Great Gun — Antient palace of the Tsars 
 — Imperial Treasury — Manuscripts — Superb model— General 
 appearance of the Kremlin — First Christian church — Festival 
 of the Ascension. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 P. 171. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Order of the Maltese cross — Minerals of Count Golovkin — 
 Pictures— Antiquities— Shells — Gallery of Galitzin — Library 
 of Botterline — Botanic garden — Philosophical instruments — 
 Other collections — Stupendous objects of Natural History — 
 English horse-dealers — Public baths : their mode of use , and 
 national importance— Foundling Hospital. 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 P. 193. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Visit to the Archbishop of Moscow— his conversation — Convent 
 of Nicox-i. NA Pkrrera — Funeral of Prince Galitxin— 
 Stalls for fruit and food— Sparrow Hill— Public morals— 
 Bam/uets of the nobles — Barbarous etiquette observed at 
 Russian tables — Anecdote of two English Gentlemen 
 Precautions to be used in travelling — Dealers in Virtu 
 Adventurers and swindlers — Immense wealth of the nobles — 
 Condition of the peasants. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 P. 227. 
 
 JOURNEY FROM MOSCOW TO WORONETZ. 
 
 Departure from Moscow — Celo Molody — Serpuchof- — Insolence 
 and extortion — River Oka— Celo Zavody — An tient games — 
 Vast Oriental plain — State of travelling— Tula — its manu- 
 factures — Imperial fabric of arms — Present slate of Tula — 
 Economy of fuel— Iron mines — Road from Tula to Woronetz 
 —Dedilof— Change of climate— Boghoreditz— Celo Nikitxkoy 
 
 Puls hoy Platy — Effremof—Nikolaijevka—Celo Petrovskia 
 
 Palnia Eletz — Ezvoly — Zadonclz — Celo Chlebnoy-Bestu- 
 
 zevka — Celo Staroy Ivotinskoy—Woronetz. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 P. 260. 
 
 FROM WORONETZ, TO THE TERRITORY OF THE 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Present state of Woronetz— Climate and productions— Garden 
 o/Peter the Great — Inundation and product of the rivers — 
 Increase of buildings— Arsenal— Commerce, internal and 
 external— IVine of the Don- Change of manners, and of 
 features— Neglect of drowned persons— Tumuli— Malo-Rus- 
 sians— Plains south of Woronetz— Celo Usmany—Podulok 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Moscovskoy — Mojocks, Ekortzy, and Iestakovo — Locava 
 Sloboda — Paulovskoy — Plants — Animals — Trade — Rash con- 
 duct of a young peasant — Kaziitskoy Chutor — Nizney Momon 
 — Dolrinka — Metscha — Kasanhaia, first stanitza of the Don 
 Cossacks. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 P. 297. 
 
 TERRITORY OF THE DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Appearance of the Cossacks at Kasanhaia — House of the Ataman 
 — Ideal dangers of the Country — Voyage by water — Amuse- 
 ments and dances of the people — Departure — Steppes — River 
 Lazovai — Visit to a camp of Calmucks — Of their brandy 
 distilled from mare's milk — Personal appearance of Calmucks 
 — Arts, armour, and weapons — Recreations and condition of 
 life — Acenovskaia — Of the Suroke, or Bobac, of the Steppes 
 — The Biroke and Suslic — Nature of villages named in 
 Russian maps — Stragglers from the army — Distinction 
 between Cossacks of the Steppes and of the Don — Kamenskaia 
 — Iron Foundries of Lugan — Etymology of the word Tanai's 
 — Numerous camps of Calmucks — Approach toAxoy. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 P. 343. 
 
 CAPITAL OF THE DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Arrival at Axay — Public entry — Reception by the Don Cossacks 
 — Population of their territory — View of the Don — Cele- 
 bration of a Court festival — Mode of fasting — Analogy 
 between the Don and the Nile — Natural curiosities and 
 antiquities — Fishes — Extraordinary appearance of Tcher- 
 kask — Inhabitants and public buildings — Origin of the 
 Cossacks — Causes of their increase — Emigrations — Foundation 
 of their capital — Circassians — Commerce of Tcherkask — 
 Polished manners of the people — Remarkable wager — Survey 
 of the town — Entire houses moved — Diseases of the people — 
 Greek impostor — Departure from Tcherkask. 
 
Jj/mdvn T^d'hj9isd3£n/2 *J1\IP. bit laJdt &'J)ayi?.r Strand. 
 
CHAP. T. 
 
 PETERSBURG. 
 
 Preliminary Observation s — State of Public Affairs — 
 Strange Conduct of the Emperor — Insolence of the 
 Police — Extraordinary Phenomenon. 
 
 curiosity to visit the Eastern bounda- 
 ries of Europe is naturally excited by the 
 circumstance of their situation, in a country 
 rarely traversed by any literary traveller, and 
 little noticed either in antient or in modern 
 history. Above two thousand years ago, the 
 vol. i. B 
 
2 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 chap. Tanais, watering the plains of Sarmatia, sepa- 
 rated the Roxolani and the Jazyges from the 
 Hamaxobii and the Alctni. In modern geography, 
 the same river, altered in its appellation, 
 divides the tribe of the Don Cossacks from the 
 Tchernomorshi, whose territory extends from the 
 Sea of Jzof to the Kuban. The Greeks, by 
 their commerce in the Euxine, obtained a slight 
 knowledge of the people who lived on the 
 Palus jVUotis. The wars of Russia and 
 Turkey sometimes directed our attention to this 
 remote country; but the knowledge of its 
 inhabitants, both among the Antients and 
 Moderns, has scarcely exceeded the names of 
 the tribes, and their character in war. With 
 their domestic habits, the productions of the 
 land, the nature of its scenery, or the remains 
 of antiquity they possess, we are very little 
 acquainted. By referring to Antient History, 
 we find that the same want of information 
 prevailed formerly as at present. This may be 
 accounted for by the wandering disposition of 
 a people, seldom settled for any length of time 
 upon the same spot : and with regard to their 
 successors, since the establishment oi a metro- 
 polis in the marshes of the Don, and the 
 expulsion of the Kuban Tartars by the Cossacks 
 of the Black Sea, the country has been sub- 
 mitted to very little examination. It was 
 
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 among these people that the political differences 
 of England and Russia drove the Author, a 
 willing exile, from the cities of Petersburg and 
 Moscow, in the last year of the eighteenth 
 century. Necessity and inclination were 
 coupled together ; and he had the double satis- 
 faction, of escaping persecution from the 
 enemies of his country, and of surveying- 
 regions which, in the warmest sallies of hope, 
 he had never thought it would be his destiny 
 to explore. 
 
 In the course of this journey, through exten- 
 sive plains which have been improperly called 
 deserts, and among a secluded people who 
 with as little reason have been deemed savages, 
 he had certainly neither the luxuries and dis- 
 sipation of polished cities, nor the opportunities 
 of indolence, to interrupt his attention to his 
 journal. If therefore it fail to interest the 
 public, he has no apology to offer. He presents 
 it in a state as similar as possible to that 
 wherein notes written upon the spot were 
 made ; as containing whatsoever his feeble 
 abilities were qualified to procure, either for 
 information or amusement; and adhering, in 
 every representation, strictly to the truth. 
 
4 
 
 PETERSBURG. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 I. 
 
 State of 
 
 Public 
 
 Affairs. 
 
 Strange 
 Conduct 
 of the 
 Emperor. 
 
 After suffering a number of indignities, in 
 common with others of our countrymen, during 
 our residence in Petersburg ; about the middle 
 of March, 1800, matters grew to such extre- 
 mities, that our excellent Ambassador, Sir 
 Charles (now Lord) Whitworth, found it neces- 
 sary to advise us to go to Moscow. A passport 
 had been denied for his courier to proceed with 
 despatches to England. In answer to the 
 demand made by our Minister for an expla- 
 nation, it was stated to be the Emperors pleasure. 
 In consequence of which, Sir Charles inclosed 
 the note containing his demand, and the 
 Emperor’s answer, in a letter to the English 
 Government, which he committed to the post- 
 office with very great doubts of its safety. 
 
 In the mean time, every day brought with 
 it some new example of the Sovereign s absur- 
 dities and tyranny, which seemed to originate 
 in absolute insanity. The sledge of Count 
 Razumovsky was, by the Emperor’s order, 
 broken into small pieces, while he stood by 
 and directed the work. The horses had been 
 found with it in the streets, without their 
 driver. It happened to be of a blue colour ; 
 and the Count’s servants wore red liveries: 
 upon which a ukase was immediately published, 
 
PETERSBURG. 
 
 prohibiting, throughout the Empire op all the 
 Russias, the use of blue colour in ornamenting 
 sledges, and of red liveries. In consequence 
 of this sage decree, our Ambassador, and many 
 others, were compelled to alter their equipages. 
 
 One evening, being at his theatre in the 
 Hermitage, a French piece was performed, in 
 which the story of the English Powder-plot 
 was introduced. The Emperor was observed 
 to listen to it with more than usual attention ; 
 and as soon as it was concluded, he ordered all 
 the vaults beneath the palace to be searched. 
 
 Coming down the street called The Per- 
 spective, he perceived a Nobleman who was 
 taking his walk, and had stopped to look at 
 some workmen who were planting trees by the 
 Monarch’s order. — “ What are you doing ?” 
 said the Emperor. “ Merely seeing the men 
 work,” replied the Nobleman. “ Oh, is that 
 your employment ? — Take off his pelisse, and 
 give him a spade ! — There, now work yourself!” 
 
 When enraged, he lost all command of him- 
 self, which sometimes gave rise to very ludi- 
 crous scenes. The courtiers knew very well 
 when the storm was gathering, by a trick the 
 Emperor had in those moments of blowing 
 
6 
 
 PETERSBURG. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 I. 
 
 from his under-lip against the end of his short 
 nose. In one of his furious passions, flourishing 
 his cane about, he struck by accident the 
 branch of a large glass lustre, and broke it. 
 As soon as he perceived what had happened, 
 he attacked the lustre in good earnest, and did 
 not give up his work until it was entirely 
 demolished. 
 
 In the rare intervals of better temper, his 
 good-humour was betrayed by an uncouth way 
 of swinging his legs and feet about in walking. 
 Upon those occasions he was sure to talk with 
 indecency and folly. 
 
 But the instances were few in which the 
 gloom spread over a great metropolis, by the 
 madness and malevolence of a suspicious 
 tyrant, was enlivened even by his ribaldry. 
 The accounts of the Spanish Inquisition do not 
 afford more painful sensations than were excited 
 in viewing the state of Russia at this time. 
 Hardly a day passed without unjust punish- 
 ment. It seemed as if half the Nobles in the 
 Empire were to be sent to Siberia. Those who 
 were able to leave Petersburg went to Moscoiv. 
 It was in vain they applied for permission to 
 leave the country : the very request might 
 incur banishment to the mines. If any family 
 
PETERSBURG. 
 
 received visitors in an evening ; if four people 
 were seen walking together ; if any one spoke 
 too loud, or whistled, or sang, or looked too 
 inquisitive, and examined any public building 
 with too much attention ; he was in imminent 
 danger. If he stood still in the streets, or fre- 
 quented any particular walk more than another, 
 or walked too fast or too slow, he was liable to 
 be reprimanded and insulted by the police- 
 officers. Mungo Park could hardly have been 
 exposed to a more insulting tyranny among 
 the Moors in Africa, than Englishmen experi- 
 enced at that time in Russia, and particularly in 
 Petersburg. They were compelled to wear a 
 dress regulated by the police: and as every 
 officer had a different notion of the proper 
 mode of enforcing the regulation, they were 
 constantly liable to interruption in the streets 
 and public places, and to the most flagrant 
 impertinence. This dress consisted of a three- 
 cornered hat, or, for want of one, a round hat 
 pinned up with three corners ; a long queue ; 
 single-breasted coat and waistcoat ; and buckles, 
 at the knees, and in the shoes, instead of 
 strings. Orders were given to arrest any 
 person who should be found wearing panta- 
 loons. A servant was taken out of his sledge, 
 and caned in the streets, for having too thick a 
 neckcloth; and if it had been too thin, he 
 
8 PETERSBURG. 
 
 chap, would have met with a similar punishment. 
 
 y y ~ -> After every precaution, the dress, when put on, 
 never satisfied the police or the Emperor : either 
 the hat was not straight on the head, or the 
 hair was too short, or the coat was not cut 
 square enough. A Lady at Court wore her hair 
 rather lower in her neck than was consistent 
 with the ukase, and she was ordered into close 
 confinement, to be fed on bread and water. A 
 gentleman's hair fell a little over his forehead, 
 while dancing at a ball ; upon which a police- 
 officer attacked him with rudeness and with 
 abuse, and told him if he did not instantly cut 
 his hair, he would find a soldier who could 
 shave his head 1 . 
 
 When the ukase first appeared concerning the 
 form of the hat, the son of an English merchant, 
 with a view to baffle the police, appeared in the 
 streets of Petersburg, having on his head an 
 English hunting-cap, at sight of which the 
 police-officers were puzzled. “ It was not a 
 cocked hat,” they said, “ neither wds it a 
 round hat.” In this embarrassment, they re- 
 ported the affair to the Emperor. An ukase was 
 accordingly promulgated, and levelled at the 
 hunting-cap; but not knowing how to describe 
 
 (l) A made in which criminals arc punished in Russia. 
 
PETERSBURG. 
 
 the anomaly, the Emperor ordained, that “ no 
 person should appear in public with the thing on his 
 head worn by the merchant's son." 
 
 An order against wearing boots with coloured 
 tops was most rigorously enforced. The police- 
 officers stopped a foreigner driving through the 
 streets in a pair of English boots. This gentleman 
 expostulated with them, saying that he had no 
 other, and certainly would not cut off’ the tops 
 of his boots; upon which the officers, each 
 seizing a leg as he sat in his droshy, fell to work, 
 and drew off his boots, leaving him to go bare- 
 footed home. 
 
 If Foreigners ventured to notice any of these 
 enormities in their letters, which were alKopened 
 and read by the police, or expressed themselves 
 with energy in praise of their own country, or 
 used a single sentiment or expression offensive 
 or incomprehensible to the police-officers or 
 their spies, they were liable to be torn in an 
 instant, without any previous notice, from their 
 families and friends, thrown into a sledge, and 
 hurried to the frontier, or to Siberia. Many 
 persons were said to have been privately mur- 
 dered, and more were banished. Never was there 
 a system of administration more offensive in the 
 eyes of God or man. A veteran officer, who 
 
PETERSBURG. 
 
 hacl served fifty years in the Russian army, and 
 attained the rank of Colonel, was broken without 
 the smallest reason. Above an hundred officers 
 met with their discharge, a' l of whom were 
 ruined ; and many others were condemned to 
 suffer imprisonment or severer punishment. 
 The cause of all this was said to be the Em- 
 peror’s ill-humour ; and when the cause of that 
 ill-humour became known, it appeared that his 
 mistress, who detested him, had solicited per- 
 mission to marry an officer to whom she was 
 betrothed. To such excessive cruelty did his 
 rage carry him against the author of an epigram, 
 in which his reign had been contrasted with his 
 mother’s, that he ordered his tongue to be cut 
 out ; and sent him to one of those remote 
 islands, in the Aleoutan Tract, on the North-west 
 coast of America, which are inhabited by 
 savages 1 . 
 
 Viewing the career of such men, who, like a 
 whirlwind, mark their progress through the 
 ages in which they live by a track of desolation. 
 
 (l) The following is the literal sense of that memorable Epigram. 
 It originated in the Emperor Paul's attempting to finish with brick* 
 writhe beautiful Church of St. Isaac, which his predecessor Catheb.ns 
 had begun in marble. 
 
 “ Of two reigns behold the image : 
 
 “ Whose base is marble, and summit brick!" 
 
PETERSBURG. 
 
 can we wonder at the stories we read of regi- 
 cides ? “ There is something,” says Mungo 
 
 Park, “ in the frown of a tyrant, which rouses 
 the most inward emotions of the soul.” In the 
 prospect of dismay, of calamity, and of sorrow, 
 which mankind might experience in the reign 
 of Paul, we began to feel a true presentiment 
 of his approaching death ; and do freely confess, 
 much as we abhor the manner of it, that it was 
 
 “ a consummation 
 
 •Devoutly to be wish’d.” 
 
 The season began to change before we left 
 Petersburg. The cold became daily less intense ; 
 and the inhabitants were busied in moving from 
 the Neva large blocks of ice into their cellars. 
 A most interesting and remarkable phenomenon 
 took place the day before our departure, — the 
 thermometer of Fahrenheit indicating only nine 
 degrees of temperature below the freezing 
 point ; and there was no wind. At this time, 
 snow, in the most regular and beautiful crystals, 
 fell gently upon our clothes, and upon the 
 sledge, as we were driving through the streets. 
 All of these crystals possessed exactly the 
 same figure, and the same dimensions. Every 
 one of them consisted of a wheel or star, with 
 six equal rays, bounded by circumferences of 
 equal diameters ; having all the same number 
 
 11 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 I. 
 
 Extraordi- 
 nary Phe- 
 nomenon. 
 
12 
 
 PETERSBURG. 
 
 chap, of rays branching from a common centre. The 
 size of each of those little stars was equal to 
 the circle presented by the section ol a pea, 
 into two equal parts. This appearance continued 
 during three hours, in which time no other 
 snow fell ; and, as there was sufficient leisure 
 to examine them with the strictest attention, we 
 made the representation given in the first figure. 
 
 A B 
 
 Water, in its crystallization, seems to consist 
 of radii diverging from a common centre, by 
 observing the usual appearances on the surface 
 of ice; perhaps, therefore, it may be possible 
 
PETERSBURG. 
 
 13 
 
 to obtain the theory, and to ascertain the laws, chap. 
 from which this structure results 1 2 3 . Monge, ' — ' 
 President of the National Institute of Paris, 
 noticed, in falling snow, stars with six equal 
 rays, descending, during winter, when the 
 atmosphere was calm. Hauy records this, in 
 his observations on the muriate of ammonia *. 
 
 The first droshy ’ had made its appearance in 
 the streets of Petersburg before we left it ; and 
 we began to entertain serious apprehensions 
 that the snow would fail, and our sledge-way to 
 Moscow be destroyed. We had often been told 
 of the rapidity with which the warm season 
 makes it appearance in this climate ; there being 
 
 (1) An equiangular and equilateral plane hexagon is divisible into 
 three equal and similar rhombs : and if the engraved Figure A ba 
 attentively observed, it will appear that each linear ray of the star is 
 a diagonal (See Figure B) , joining the acute angles of a rhomb, whose 
 sides are the loci of the extreme points of the lines of ramification 
 from those diagonals. The rhomb may therefore be the primitive 
 form of water crystallized. This seems the more manifest, because 
 if equal and similar rhombs be applied between all the rays of the 
 star A, in the spaces 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, an equilateral and equi- 
 angular hexagon will be the result ; as represented by the dotted line 
 in Figure C. 
 
 (2) “ II en r&ultc des etoiles a six rayons, lorsque 1c temps est 
 ealme, et que la temperature n’est pas assez dlevea pour desformer les 
 cristaux.” Hauy, Traitc dc Min. tom. ii. p. 386. 
 
 (3) The droshy is a kind of bench upon four wheels, used in Russia 
 as our Hackney-coaches : it contains four or six persons, sitting back to 
 back, thus driven sideways by the coachman, who sits at the end of the 
 bench. This vehicle succeed? the sledge, after the melting of the snow. 
 
PETERSBURG. 
 
 hardly any interval of spring, but an almost 
 instantaneous transition from winter to summer. 
 The frozen provisions of the city, if not con- 
 sumed by the appointed time, which may be 
 generally conjectured to a day, almost instantly 
 putrify when the frost disappears. 
 
CHAP. II. 
 
 FROM PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. 
 
 Departure from Petersburg — Manner of Travelling — 
 
 Palace of Tsarskoselo — Gardens — Anecdote of Bil- 
 lings’s Expedition to the North-west Coast of America 
 — Ledyard — Barbarous Decoration of the Apartments 
 — Arrival at Novogorod — Cathedral — Antient Greek 
 Paintings — Manner of imitating them in Russia — 
 Superstitions of the Greek Church — Virgin with Three 
 Hands — Story of her Origin — Russian Bogh. 
 
 W* left Petersburg on the morning of the chap. 
 third of April, and arrived with great expedi- ' — 
 tion at Tsarskoselo. Our carriage had been De ™°° ure 
 placed upon a traineau or sledge ; and another 
 
FROM PETERSBURG 
 
 sledge, following us, conveyed the wheels. It 
 is proper to describe our mode of travelling, 
 that others may derive advantage from it. If 
 the journey be confined to countries only where 
 sledges are used, the common method adopted 
 by the inhabitants is always the best ; but if a 
 passage be desired with ease and expedition 
 from one climate to another, some contrivance 
 should secure the traveller from the rigours of 
 the seasons, without impeding his progress by 
 superfluous burthen. For this purpose, the 
 kind of carriage called a Gentian batarde is most 
 convenient. A delineation of one of these is 
 given in the work of Reichard 1 , who also men- 
 tions the expense of building it in Vienna, 
 where those carriages are made for one-fourth 
 of the money required by the London coach- 
 makers; and they answer every purpose of 
 travelling, full as well as vehicles made in 
 England. The batarde is nothing more than an 
 English chariot with a dormeuse, advancing in 
 front, and made sufficiently high to furnish a 
 commodious seat for two persons on the out- 
 side, upon the springs. We caused the driver 
 to sit upon the trunk in front ; but it would be 
 better to provide for him a little chair raised for 
 that purpose. The door of the dormeuse within 
 
 (l) Guide des Voyageurs en Europe, tom. ii. planche 1, 
 
TO MOSCOW. 
 
 the carriage lets down upon the seat ; it contains 
 leathern cushions, and a pillow covered with 
 thin leather. The carriage has, besides, an 
 imperial, a well, a sword-case which may be 
 converted into a small library, and, instead of a 
 window behind, a large lamp, so constructed 
 as to throw a strong light without dazzling the 
 eyes of those within. Thus provided, a person 
 may travel night and day, fearless of want, of 
 accommodation, or houses of repose. His car- 
 riage is his home, which accompanies him 
 everywhere ; and if lie choose to halt, or acci- 
 dents oblige him to stop in the midst of a forest 
 or a desert, he may sleep, eat, drink, read, write, 
 amuse himself with any portable musical in- 
 _ .rumen t, careless of the frosts of the North, or 
 the dews, the mosquitoes, and vermin of the 
 South. Over snowy regions, he places his house 
 upon a sledge, and. when the snow melts, upon 
 its wheels ; being always careful, where wheels 
 are used for long journeys through hot countries, 
 to soak them in water whenever he stops for 
 the night. 
 
 Setting out from Petersburg for the South of 
 Russia, the traveller bids adieu to all thoughts 
 of inns, or even houses with the common neces- 
 saries of bread and water. He will not even 
 find clean straw, if he should speculate upon 
 
FROM PETERSBURG 
 
 the chance of a bed. Every thing he may want 
 must therefore be taken with him. A pewter 
 tea-pot will prove of more importance than a 
 chest of plate; and more so than one of silver, 
 because it will not be stolen, and may be kept 
 equally clean and entire. To this he will add, 
 a kettle ; a saucepan, the top ot which may be 
 used for a dish; tea, sugar, and a large cheese, 
 with several loaves of bread made into rusks, 
 and as much fresh bread as he thinks will keep 
 till he has a chance of procuring more. Then, 
 while the frost continues, he may carry frozen 
 food, such as game or fish, which, being con- 
 gealed, and as hard as flint, may jolt about among 
 his kettles in the well of the carriage without any 
 chance of injury. Wine may be used in a cold 
 country ; but never in a hot, or even in a tem- 
 perate climate, while upon the road. In hot 
 countries, if a cask of good vinegar can be pro- 
 cured, the traveller will often bless the means 
 by which it was obtained. When, with a 
 parched tongue, a dry and feverish skin, he 
 has to assuage his burning thirst with the bad 
 or good water brought to him, the addition of 
 a little vinegar will make the draught delicious. 
 Care must be taken not to use it to excess , fox 
 it is sometimes so tempting a remedy against 
 somnolency, that it is hardly possible to resist 
 using the vinegar without any mixture of water. 
 
TO MOSCOW. 
 
 The palace of Tsarskoselo is twenty- two versts CI J I ) ir - 
 from Petersburg, and the only object worth v — v — 1 
 
 i Palace of 
 
 notice between that city and Novogorod. It is Tsarsko- 
 built of brick, plastered over. Before the edifice sd °' 
 is a large court, surrounded by low buildings 
 for the kitchens and other out-houses. The 
 front of the palace occupies an extent of near 
 eight hundred feet ; and it is ' entirely covered, 
 in a most barbarous taste, with columns, and 
 pilasters, and cariatides, stuck between the 
 windows. All of these, in the true style of 
 Dutch gingerbread, are gilded. The whole of 
 the building is a compound of what an architect 
 ought to avoid, rather than to imitate. Yet so 
 much money has been spent upon it, and par- 
 ticularly upon the interior, that it cannot be 
 passed without notice. It was built by the Em- 
 press Elizabeth ; and was much the residence 
 of Catherine, in the latter part of her life, when 
 her favourites, no longer the objects of a licen- 
 tious passion, were chosen more as adopted 
 children than as lovers. 
 
 In the gardens of this palace, persons, who Gardens, 
 wished to gain an audience of the Empress, 
 
 .were accustomed to place themselves when she 
 descended for her daily walk. A complaint in 
 her legs caused her to introduce the very ex- 
 pensive alteration of converting the staircase of 
 
 c 2 
 
TSARSKOSELO. 
 
 20 
 
 chap, the Hermitage, at Petersburg, into an inclined 
 . 11 j plane ; offering a more commodious and more 
 
 easy descent. A similar alteration was intro- 
 duced at Tsarskoselo. This conducted her from 
 the apartments of the palace into the garden. 
 
 It was in one of those walks, as Professor Pallas 
 Anecdote afterwards informed me, that Commodore Billings 
 line's Ex- obtained, by a stratagem, her final order for 
 pcdition. kjg expedition to the North-west coast of 
 America. Bezborodko, the Minister, although 
 he had received the Empress’s order, put him 
 off' from time to time, not choosing to advance 
 the money requisite for the different prepara- 
 tions; and Billings began to fear the plan would 
 never be put in execution. In the midst of 
 his despondency. Professor Pallas undertook to 
 make the matter known to the Empress, and 
 advised the Commodore to accompany him to 
 Tsarskoselo. As soon as they arrived, Pallas 
 conducted him to a part of the garden which 
 he knew the Empress would frequent at her 
 usual hour. Here they had not waited long, 
 before she made her appearance. With her usual 
 affability, she entered into conversation with 
 Professor Pallas ; and, after inquiries respecting 
 his health, asked the name of the young officer, 
 his companion. The Professor informed her ; 
 adding, “ he is the person whom your Majesty 
 was pleased to appoint, in consequence of my 
 
TSARSKOSELO. 21 
 
 recommendation, to the command of the ex- chap. 
 
 pedition destined for the North-west coast of , 1 
 
 America.” “ And what,” said the Empress, 
 
 “ has delayed his departure ?” “ He waits, at 
 this moment, your Majesty’s orders,” replied the 
 Professor. At this the Empress, without any 
 reply, and evidently somewhat ruffled, quick- 
 ened her pace towards the palace. The next 
 morning the necessary supplies came from the 
 Minister, with orders that he should set out 
 immediately. 
 
 That the expedition might have been con- 
 fided to better hands, the public have been 
 since informed, by the Secretary Sauer 1 . This 
 Professor Pallas lamented to have discovered, 
 when it was too late. But the loss sustained 
 by any incapacity in the persons employed to 
 conduct that expedition, is not equal to that 
 which the public suffered by the sudden recall 
 of the unfortunate Ledyard: this, it is said, Lcdyard. 
 would never have happened, but through the 
 jealousy of his own countrymen, whom he 
 chanced to encounter as he was upon the 
 point of quitting the Eastern continent for 
 
 (0 See Account of an Expedition to the Northern Parts of 
 Russia, &e. by Martin Sauer, Secretary to the Expedition. 4to. 
 Lond. 1802. 
 
TSARSKOSELO. 
 
 22 
 
 chap. America, and who caused the information to 
 he sent to Petersburg which occasioned the 
 order for his arrest. 
 
 Barbarous 
 Decoration 
 of the 
 Apart- 
 ments, 
 
 The gardens of Tsarskoselo are laid out in 
 the English taste; and therefore the only novelty 
 belonging to them is their situation, so far 
 removed from the nation whose customs they 
 pretend to represent. 
 
 The interior of the building presents a number 
 of spacious and gaudy rooms, fitted up in a 
 style combining a mixture of barbarism and 
 magnificence hardly to be credited. The walls 
 of one of the rooms are entirely covered with 
 fine pictures, by the best of the Flemish, and 
 by other masters. These are fitted together, 
 without frames, so as to cover, on each side, 
 the whole of the wall, without the smallest 
 attention to disposition or general effect. But, 
 to consummate the Vandalism of those who 
 directed the work, when they found a place 
 they could not conveniently fill, the pictures 
 were cut, in order to adapt them to the ac- 
 cidental spaces left vacant. The soldiers of 
 Mummius, at the sacking of Corinth, would 
 have been puzzled to contrive more ingenious 
 destruction of the Fine Arts. Some of Ostade's 
 best works were among the number of those 
 
TSARSKOSELO. 
 
 thus ruined. We were also assured, by au- 
 thority we shall not venture to name, that a 
 profusion of pictures ' of the Flemish School 
 were then lying in a cellar of the palace. But 
 the most extraordinary apartment, and that 
 which usually attracts the notice of strangers 
 more than any other, is a room, about thirty 
 feet square, entirely covered, on all sides, from 
 top to bottom, with amber; a lamentable waste 
 of innumerable specimens of a substance which 
 could nowhere have been so ill employed. 
 The effect produces neither beauty nor mag- 
 nificence. It would have been better expended 
 even in ornamenting the heads of Turkish pipes; 
 a custom which consumes the greatest quantity 
 of this beautiful mineral. The appearance made 
 by it on the walls is dull and heavy. It was 
 a present from the King of Prussia. In an 
 apartment prepared for Prince Potemkin , the 
 floor was covered with different sorts of exotic 
 wood, interlaid; the expense of which amounted 
 to an hundred roubles for every squared archine. 
 A profusion of gilding appears in many of the 
 other rooms. The ball-room is an hundred and 
 forty feet long by fifty-two feet wide, and two 
 stories high. The walls and pilasters of another 
 apartment were ornamented with lapis-lazuli , 
 as well as the tables it contained. The Cabinet 
 of Mirrors is a small room lined with large 
 
TSARSKOSELO. 
 
 pier-glasses, looking upon a terrace, near which 
 is a covered gallery above two hundred and 
 sixty feet long. There are various statues 
 about the house and gardens, in marble and 
 in bronze, all without merit. The chapel is 
 entirely of gilded wood, and very richly or- 
 namented. 
 
 A small flower-garden leads to the bath, 
 which is ornamented with jasper, agates, and 
 statues and columns of marble. The grotto is 
 also similarly adorned with a number of beau- 
 tiful minerals, wrought as columns, busts, bas- 
 reliefs, vases, &c. ; among others, there is a 
 vase composed of the precious stones of 
 Siberia. From this grotto is seen a lake, on 
 which appears the rostral column to Orlaf; 
 erected by the Empress in honour df the 
 naval victory he obtained over the Turks at 
 Tchcsme. 
 
 After we left Tsarskoselo, the snow diminished 
 very fast, and our fears of reaching Moscow 
 upon sledges increased 1 . But during the night, 
 and part of the morning of the 4 th of April, 
 
 (l) The carriage-road from Petersburg to Moscow, a distance of 
 near 500 miles, consists, in the summer season, of the trunks of trees 
 laid across. In consequence of the jolting- these occasion, it is then 
 one of the most painful and tedious journeys in Europe. 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 25 
 
 it fell in such abundance, that all trace of the CI ™ P - 
 
 roads disappeared, and we lost our way once 
 
 or twice before we arrived at 
 
 NOVOGOROD. 
 
 The place was half buried in snow, but we Arrival at 
 managed to get to the Cathedral, curious to 
 see the collection of pictures, idols of the Greek 
 Church, which that antient building contains ; 
 and which, with many others dispersed in the 
 cities and towns of Russia, were introduced 
 long before the art of painting was practised 
 in Italy. The knowledge of this circumstance 
 led us to hope that we should make some very 
 curious acquisitions in the country : and upon 
 our first arrival from the Swedish frontier, we 
 had given a few pounds to a Russian officer 
 for his God; this consisted of an oval plate 
 of copper, on which the figure of a warrior was 
 beautifully painted on a gold ground. The 
 warrior proved afterwards to be St. Alexander 
 Nevski : and as we advanced through the 
 
 country to Petersburg, there was hardly a hut, 
 or a post-house, that did not contain one or 
 more paintings upon small pannels of wood : 
 the figures of these were delineated, after the 
 manner of the earliest specimens of the art, 
 upon a gold ground, and sometimes protected 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 2(3 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 II. 
 
 C. * ' 
 
 Antient 
 
 Greek 
 
 Paintings. 
 
 in front by a silver coat of mail ; leaving only 
 the faces and hands of the images visible. 
 A small attention to the history and character 
 of the Russians will explain the cause. 
 
 When the religion of the Greek Church was 
 first introduced into Russia, its propagators, 
 prohibited by the Second Commandment from 
 the worship of carved images, brought with 
 them the pictures of the Saints, of the Virgin, 
 and the Messiah. Very antient sanctuaries in 
 the Holy Land had paintings of this kind, which 
 the early Christians worshipped ; as may be 
 proved by the remains of them at this time in 
 that country 1 . To protect these holy symbols 
 of the new faith from the rude but zealous 
 fingers and lips of its votaries, in a country 
 where the arts of multiplying them by imitation 
 were then unknown, they were covered by 
 plates of the most precious metals, which left 
 the features alone visible. As soon as the 
 Messengers of the Gospel died, they became 
 
 (1) In the first edition, it was erroneously written “ first Christians.’’ 
 The earliest notice of the use of pictures is in the Censure of 
 the Council of JllUcris, three hundred years after the Christian a-ra- 
 Among the ruins of some of the most antient churches in Palestine, 
 the author found several curious examples of encaustic painting, of 
 a very early date. One of these, from SepphorU, near Nazareth, is 
 now in the possession of the Principal Librarian of the University 
 of Cambridge. 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 27 
 
 themselves Saints, and were worshipped by CI ^ P - 
 their followers. The pictures they had brought 
 were then suspended in the churches, and 
 regarded as the most precious relics. Many 
 of them, preserved now in Russia, are con- 
 sidered as having the power of working mi- 
 racles. It would then necessarily follow, that, 
 with new preachers, new pictures must be 
 required. The Russians, characterized at this Manner of 
 
 1 . imitating 
 
 day by a talent of imitation, although without them in 
 a spark of inventive genius, strictly observed 
 not only the style of the original painting, but 
 the manner of laying it on, and the substance 
 on which it was placed. Thus we find, at 
 the end of the eighteenth century, a Russian 
 peasant placing before his Bogh a picture, 
 purchased in the markets of Moscow and 
 Petersburg, exactly similar to those brought 
 from Greece during the tenth; the same stiff 
 
 representation of figures which the Greeks 
 themselves seem to have originally copied from 
 works in Mosaic, the same mode of mixing 
 and laying on the colours on a plain gold 
 surface, the same custom of painting upon 
 wood, and the same expensive covering of a 
 silver coat of mail ; when, from the multitude 
 and cheapness of such pictures, the precaution 
 at first used to preserve them is no longer 
 necessary. In other instances of their religion. 
 
NOVOGOllOD. 
 
 28 
 
 chap, the copies of sacred relics seem to be as much 
 ■ . ■< objects of worship among the Russians as the 
 
 originals themselves. This will appear from 
 the description of Moscoiv. In the neighbourhood 
 of that city there is a building, erected at 
 prodigious expense, in imitation of the Church 
 of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem ; having 
 exactly the same form, and containing a faithful 
 representation of the same absurdities. 
 
 Cathedral. The Cathedral of Novogorocl, dedicated to 
 St. Sophia, in imitation of the name given to 
 the magnificent edifice erected by Justinian at 
 Constantinople, was built in the eleventh century. 
 Many of the pictures seem to have been there 
 from the time in which the church was finished, 
 and doubtless were some of them painted long 
 before its consecration, if they were not brought 
 into the country with the introduction of 
 Christianity. At any rate, we may consider 
 some of them as having originated from Greece, 
 whence Italy derived a knowledge of the art, 
 and as being anterior to its introduction in 
 that country. Little can be said of the merit 
 of any of these pictures. They are more re- 
 markable for singularity than beauty. In the 
 Supcrsti- dome of a sort of ante-chapel, as you enter, 
 Greek are sc e.n the representations of monsters with 
 Church ’ many heads ; and such a strange assemblage 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 of imaginary beings, that it might be supposed 
 a Pagan rather than a Christian temple. The 
 different representations of the Virgin, through- 
 out Russia, will shew to what a pitch of ab- 
 surdity superstition has been carried. Almost 
 all of them are to be found in the principal 
 churches ; and the worship of them forms a 
 conspicuous feature in the manners of the Rus- 
 sians. Some of those pictures have a greater 
 number of votaries : but, although they be all 
 objects of adoration, yet they have each of them 
 particular places, where, as tutelary deities, they 
 obtain a more peculiar reverence ; and some- 
 times there are small chapels and churches 
 dedicated particularly to some one of these 
 representations : — such, for example, as The 
 Virgin op Vladimir ; The Virgin with the 
 Bleeding Cheek; and The Virgin with 
 Three Hands ! The authors of the Universal 
 History assign this last picture to the church 
 of the Convent of the New Jerusalem. It was 
 perhaps originally painted as a barbarous re- 
 presentation, or symbol, of the Trinity ; and in 
 that case it more properly applies to another 
 convent in the neighbourhood of Moscow. The 
 following story has, however, been circulated 
 concerning its history. 
 
 29 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 II. 
 
 An artist, being employed on a picture of the 
 
30 
 
 NOVOGOROD. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 II. 
 
 ' y ' 
 
 Virgin with 
 
 Three 
 
 Hands. 
 
 Virgin and Child , found, one day, that instead 
 of two hands which he had given to the Virgin, 
 a third had been added during his absence 
 from his work. Supposing some person to 
 be playing a trick with him, he rubbed out 
 the third hand, and, having finished the picture, 
 carefully locked the door of his apartment. 
 To his great surprise, he found the next day 
 the extraordinary addition of a third hand in 
 his picture, as before. He now began to be 
 alarmed; but still concluding it possible that 
 some person had gained access to his room, 
 he once more rubbed out the superfluous hand, 
 and not only locked the door, but also bar- 
 ricadoed the windows. The next day, ap- 
 proaching his laboratory, he found the door 
 and windows fast, as he had left them; but, 
 to his utter dismay and astonishment, as he 
 went in, there appeared the same remarkable 
 alteration in his picture, the Virgin appearing 
 with three hands regularly disposed about the 
 Child. In extreme trepidation, he began to 
 cross himself, and proceeded once more to alter 
 the picture ; when the Virgin herself appeared 
 in person, and bade him forbear, as it was her 
 pleasure to be so represented. 
 
 Many of these absurd representations are 
 said to be the work of angels. In the Greek 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 Church they followed the idols of Paganism, 
 and have continued to maintain their place. 
 They are one of the first and most curious 
 sights which attract a traveller's notice ; for it 
 is not only in their churches that such paintings 
 are preserved ; every room throughout the 
 empire has a picture of this nature, large or 
 small, called the Bogii, or God, stuck up in 
 one corner 1 : to this every person who enters 
 offers adoration, before any salutation is made 
 to the master or mistress of the house. The 
 adoration consists in a quick motion of the 
 right hand in crossing ; the head bowing all 
 the time in a manner so rapid and ludicrous, 
 that it reminds one of those Chinese-Mandarin 
 images seen upon the chimney-pieces of old 
 houses, which, when set a-going, continue 
 nodding, for the amusement of old women and 
 children. In the myriads of idol paintings 
 dispersed throughout the empire, the subjects 
 represented are very various : and some of 
 them, owing to their singularity, merit a more 
 particular description, than can be afforded 
 without engraved representations. 
 
 (1) The picture itself is said to bear the name of Obrazei hut as 
 the Obraie is considered by every Russian as his Household God, it 
 is very generally called Bogh, which is the Russian name for God. 
 
CHAP. III. 
 
 NOVOGOROD. 
 
 Antient History of Novogorod — First Churches in Russia, 
 — Procopius — E vagrius — Baptism of Olga, afterwards 
 Helena — Arms of Novogorod — Ceremony of Crossing 
 —General Picture of this Route— Heights of Valday 
 
 Costume — Tumuli — Jedrova — Domestic Manners of 
 
 the Peasants — Servile Stale of the Empire — Vyshney 
 Voloshok — Torshok — Tver —Milanese Vagrants— 
 Volga — Tumuli — Klin — Petrovsky — Arrival at 
 Moscow — Police — Accommodations. 
 
 CI iir. P ' The melancholy ideas excited by the present 
 appearance of Novogorod have been felt by all 
 History of travellers. Who has not heard the antient 
 
 Novogorod. 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 33 
 
 saying, which prevailed in the days of its great- 
 ness * 2 ? Nomade Slavonians were its founders, 
 about the time that the Saxons, invited by Vorti- 
 gern, first came into Britain. Four centuries 
 afterwards, a motley tribe, collected from the 
 original inhabitants of all the watery and sandy 
 plains around the Finland Gulph, made it their 
 metropolis. Nearly a thousand years have 
 passed, since Ruric, the Norman, gathering 
 them together at the mouth of the Volchova, 
 laid the foundation of an empire, destined to 
 extend over the vast territories of all the 
 Russias : afterwards, ascending the river, to the 
 spot where its rapid current rushes from the 
 Ilmen to the Ladoga Lake, he fixed his residence 
 in Novogorod. 
 
 In the midst of those intestine divisions which 
 resulted from the partition of the empire at the 
 death of Vladimir, who, divided his estates 
 between his twelve sons, there arose three 
 independent princes, and a number of petty 
 confederacies. The seat of government was 
 successively removed from Novogorod, to Suze- 
 dal, Vladimir, and Moscow. Novogorod adopted 
 a mixed government, partly monarchical, and 
 partly republican. In the middle of the thir- 
 
 \ 
 
 (2) “ Quis contra Deos, et Magnam Novogordiam ?” 
 VOL. I. D 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 III. 
 
 ' 
 
 Antient 
 History of 
 Novogorod. 
 
 A.D. 450. 
 
 A.D. 1015. 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 34 
 
 chap, teenth century, it was distinguished by the 
 , 11 L , victories of its Grand Duke, Alexander Nevsky, 
 a.d. 1250. Qygj. Swedes, on the banks ot the A eva , 
 and, by its remote situation, escaped the ra- 
 vages of the Tahtars in the fourteenth. In the 
 fifteenth, it submitted to the yoke of Ivan the 
 First, whose successor, Ivan the Second, in the 
 sixteenth, ravaged and desolated the place, 
 carrying away the Palladium ot the city, the 
 famous bell, which the inhabitants had dignified 
 with the appellation of Eternal. But its ruin 
 was not fully accomplished until the building ot 
 Petersburg-, when all the commerce of the Baltic 
 was transferred to that capital. 
 
 Bodies, miraculously preserved, or rather mum- 
 mied, of Saints who were mortal ages ago, are 
 shewn in the Cathedral of St. Sophia. This edi- 
 fice has been described as one ot the most antient 
 First in the country. The first Russian churches were 
 h* 1 itu'sia. certainly of wood ; and their date is not easily 
 ascertained. Christianity was preached to the 
 inhabitants of the Don so early as the time of 
 Justinian. That Emperor was zealous in build- 
 ing churches among remote and barbarous 
 people. According to Procopius, he caused a 
 church to be erected among the Jbasgi, in 
 honour of the Theotocos, and constituted 
 priests among them. The same author also 
 relates, that the inhabitants of Tana'is earnestly 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 35 
 
 intreated him to send a bishop among them, which chap. 
 
 was accordingly done. Evagrius Scholasticus 1 > 
 
 has related this circumstance, as recorded by 
 Procopius. Rut by Tanais is said to be intended 
 the stream which runs out of the Mceotis into 
 the Euxine ; that is to say, the Cimmerian Bos- 
 phorus, or Straits of Taman. The arrival of a 
 bishop so invited, and under such patronage, 
 might be followed by the establishment of a 
 church; and it is probable, from existing docu- 
 ments, as well as the traditions of the people, 
 that this really happened, either on the Asiatic 
 or the European side of those Straits, about that 
 time. The jurisdiction of the province after- 
 wards annexed to the crown of Russia by 
 Svetoslaf the First, father of Vladimir the Great, 
 included the Isle of Taman, and the Peninsula of 
 Kertchy. In those districts, therefore, we might 
 be allowed to place the first tabernacles of 
 Christian worship ; although, in the distant 
 period of their introduction, the foundation of 
 the Russian Empire had scarcely been laid. 
 
 It is pleasing to bring scattered portions of 
 history to bear upon any one point; particularly 
 when, by so doing, the obscurity of some of 
 them may be elucidated. The journey of Olga, 
 wife of Igor, son of Ruric, to Constantinople, 
 
 (0 Lib. iv. c. 23. 
 D 2 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 36 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 III. 
 
 Baptism of 
 Olga, about 
 the middle 
 of the tenth 
 century. 
 
 A.D. 991. 
 
 after avenging the death of her husband upon 
 the Volga, occurred very early in the annals of 
 that country. “ She went," say the compilers 
 of the Modern Universal History', “for what 
 reason we know not, to Constantinople. Yet when 
 it is related, that she was baptized there" ; that, 
 in consequence of her example, many ol her 
 subjects became converts to Christianity; that 
 the Russians, to this day, rank her among their 
 Saints, and annually commemorate her festival; 
 the cause of her journey will hardly admit of a 
 doubt. The result of it proves incontestably 
 the introduction of Christianity, and the esta- 
 blishment of churches in Russia, at an earlier 
 period than is generally admitted; namely, the 
 baptism of Vladimir \ 
 
 (1) Vol. XXXV. p.. 182. 
 
 (2) The Emperor, John Zimisces, according to some historians, was 
 her godfather upon this occasion. It has been related, that he be- 
 came enamoured of the Scythian Princess, and proposed marriage ; 
 which was refused. The old lady, notwithstanding, was at that time 
 in her sixty-sixth year ; for she died at the age of eighty, which hap- 
 pened fourteen years after her baptism. Collateral anuals, by dis- 
 cordant chronology, seem to prove that the whole story, about the 
 Eastern Emperor’s amorous propensities, is founded in error and ab- 
 surdity. Zimisces was not crowned until Cbristmas-day A.D. 969. 
 Ten years before this period, Helena (which was the name borne by 
 Olga, after her baptism) had sent ambassadors to Otho, Emperor of 
 the West, desiring Missionaries to instruct her people. A mission 
 was consequently undertaken by St. Adelhert, bishop of Magdeburg, 
 into Russia, A.D. 962. 
 
 (3) Some authors place this event four years earlier. The present 
 chronology is that of Du I'resnny. 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 3 7 
 
 This subject is materially connected with chap. 
 
 the history of the Fine Arts ; for with Chris- \ — > 
 
 tianity, the art of painting was introduced into 
 Russia. Some of the most chosen idols of their 
 churches are, those curious Grecian pictures 
 which the first Gospel Missionaries brought with 
 them from - Constantinople. The inscriptions 
 upon them often exhibit the Greek characters 
 of those times ; and the pictures themselves 
 afford interesting examples of the art, many 
 centuries before it became known to the more 
 enlightened nations of Europe. Nor was the 
 art of painting alone introduced with Chris- 
 tianity into Russia. All that they knew of letters, 
 or of any useful and liberal art, for many cen- 
 turies afterwards, was derived from the same 
 source. The inhabitants of the South-Sea 
 Islands can hardly be more savage than were 
 the Russians, when the Gospel was first preached 
 to them. The full accomplishment of this great 
 event certainly did not take place till Vladimir 
 became converted. It was a condition of his 
 rnarriage with the sister of the Greek Emperor ; 
 and it is said, that no less than twenty thou- 
 sand of his subjects were christened on the 
 same day. The change effected by this mea- 
 sure was nothing less than a complete revolu- 
 tion in their manners and in their morals. 
 Vladimir led the way, by his example. The 
 
NOVOGOROD. 
 
 38 
 
 chap, pagan idols, and eight hundred concubines, 
 
 ■ . 1 were dismissed together ; and the twelve sons, 
 
 which his six wives had borne unto him, were 
 baptized: churches and monasteries brought 
 around them towns and villages; and civiliza- 
 tion seemed to dawn upon the plains and the 
 forests of Scythia. Indeed, a memorial of the 
 blessed effects of Christianity, among a people 
 who were scarce removed from the brute 
 creation, seems to be preserved even in the 
 Arms of Arms of the Government of Novogorod, the 
 Novgorod. w p cre it was first established; and 
 
 the ludicrous manner in which this event is 
 typified, is consistent with the barbarism of the 
 people. Two bears, supporters, are repre- 
 sented at an altar upon the ice, with crucifixes 
 crossed before the Obraze, or Bogh, on which is 
 placed a candelabrum with a triple lustre, as an 
 emblem of the Trinity 
 
 The fortress of Novogorod is large, but of 
 wretched appearance. It was constructed after 
 the plan of the Kremlin at Moscow, towards the 
 end of the fifteenth century, and contains the 
 cathedral. Upon the bridge, leading to this 
 fortress from the town, is a small sanctuary, 
 where every peasant who passes either deposits 
 
 (l) See the Vignette to the preceding Chapter. 
 
NOVOC.OROD. 
 
 39 
 
 his candle or his penny. Before this place, 
 which is filled with old pictures of the kind 
 already described, and which a stranger might 
 really mistake for a picture-stall, devotees, 
 during the whole day, may be seen bowing and 
 crossing themselves. A Russian hardly com- 
 mits any action without this previous ceremony. 
 If he be employed to drive your carriage, his 
 crossing occupies two minutes before he is 
 mounted. When he descends, the same motion 
 is repeated. If a church be in view, you see him 
 at work with his head and hand, as if seized 
 with St. Vitus's dance. If he make any earnest 
 protestation, or enter a room, or go out, you 
 are entertained with the same manual and 
 capital exercise*. When beggars return thanks 
 for alms, the operation lasts a longer time ; and 
 then between the crossing, by way of interlude, 
 they generally make prostration, and touch 
 their foreheads to the earth. 
 
 The snow increased very fast in our road 
 from Novogorod to Tver ; but afterwards we had 
 
 (2) It was a common practice among the early Christians, towards 
 the end of the second century. Terlullian, who flourished A.D. 192, 
 
 thus mentions it : “Ad omnem progressum atquc promotum, ad 
 
 omnem aditum ct exitura, ad vostitum, ad caleeatum, ad lavacra, et 
 mensas, ad lumina, ad eubilia, ad sedilia, quascunque nos conver- 
 satio exercet, frontem erucis signaculo termin'*.” 
 
 Tertullian. dr Coron. Mil. cap. 3. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 III. 
 
FROM PETERSBURG 
 
 scarcely sufficient for the sledges, and in some 
 places the earth was bare. The traveller will 
 be more interested in this information than 
 readers at home ; and he will of course compare 
 the observation with the date of the journey ; as 
 the weather in Russia is not subject to those 
 irregular vicissitudes experienced in England. 
 It may generally he ascertained by the Ca- 
 lendar. 
 
 A notion has become prevalent, that the road 
 from Petersburg to Moscow is a straight line 
 through forests; perhaps, because it was the 
 intention of Peter the Great to have it so made 1 . 
 The country is generally open, a wide and 
 fearful prospect of hopeless sterility, where the 
 fir and the dwarf birch, which cover even 
 Arctic regions, scarcely find existence. The 
 soil is, for the most part, sandy, and of a nature 
 to set agriculture at defiance. Towards the 
 latter part of the journey, corn-fields of conside- 
 rable extent appeared. What the summer road 
 may be, we are unable to say ; but our pro- 
 
 (l) When Jonas Hanuay (Travels, Vo!. I. p.,92.) passed in 1743, 
 only one hundred miles had beet, completed according to the original 
 plan ; which was. to make a bridge of timber for the whole distance of 
 four hundred and eighty-seven miles For that space of one hundred 
 miles, according to the calculation made by him, no less than two 
 millions one hundred thousand trees were required. 
 
TO MOSCOW. 
 
 41 
 
 gress was as devious as possible. In all the chap. 
 
 province or district of Valday , the soil is hilly, ' 
 
 not to say mountainous ; so that what with the rfiday. °* 
 undulations of the road itself, from the heaps 
 of drifted snow, and the rising and sinking of the 
 countrv, our motion resembled that of a vessel 
 rolling in an Atlantic calm. Our good friend 
 Professor Pallas experienced as rough a journey 
 along this route, a few years before. He men- 
 tions the delay, and even the danger, to which 
 he was exposed on the Heights of Valday e . So 
 precisely similar were the circumstances of the 
 seasons, that in both cases the snow failed in the 
 moment of arrival in Moscow. 
 
 The female peasants of the Valday have a Costume, 
 costume that resembles one in Switzerland. 
 
 It consists of a shift with full sleeves, and a 
 short petticoat, with coloured stockings. Over 
 this, in winter, they wear a pelisse of lamb's 
 wool, as white as the snow around them, lined 
 with cloth, and adorned with gold buttons and 
 lace. The hair of unmarried women, as in most 
 parts of Russia, is braided, and hangs to a great 
 length down their backs. On their heads they 
 wear a handkerchief of coloured silk. When 
 married, the hair is trussed up ; and this consti- 
 
 ( 2 ) Travels through the Southern Provinces, &c. Vol.I. p. 4. 
 
I 
 
 42 FROM PETERSBURG 
 
 chap, tutes the outward mark of a virgin, or of a matron. 
 
 . 1H ' ■, Generally speaking, the traveller may pass over 
 a vast extent of territory without noticing any 
 change in the costume. How very different is 
 the case in Italy ! where the mere passage of a 
 bridge in the same city, as at Naples, leads to 
 a different mode of dress. The male peasants of 
 Russia are universally habited, in winter, in a 
 jacket made of a sheep's hide, with the wool 
 inwards, and a square-crowned red cap with a 
 circular edge of black wool round the rim. 
 These, with a long black beard, sandals made 
 of the bark of the birch-tree, and woollen 
 bandages about the legs, complete the dress. 
 
 Tumuli. Conical mounds of earth, or tumuli, occur 
 very frequently on this road. The most re- 
 markable may be observed in the stage between 
 Yezolbisky and Valdai/, on both sides ol the road, 
 but chiefly on the left ; and they continue to 
 appear from the latter place to Jedrova. Pro- 
 fessor Pallas has given a representation of four 
 of these tumuli, in a Vignette at the beginning 
 of the first volume of his late work’. They are 
 common all over the Russian Empire : and 
 
 indeed it may be asked. Where is the country, 
 in which such sepulchral hillocks do not appear ? 
 
 (l) Travels through the Southern Provinces, &c. 
 
TO MOSCOW. 
 
 43 
 
 We had been pestered the whole way from chap. 
 
 Petersburg by a bell, which the driver carried, < y ' 
 
 suspended to his belt; but were not aware that 
 it passed for a mark of privilege, until we arrived 
 at Jedrovn. Here we saw a poor fellow cudgelled 
 by a police-officer, because he had presumed 
 to carry a bell without a poderosnny 2 , the title to 
 such a distinction. 
 
 The whole journey from Petersburg to Moscow Jedrova. 
 offers nothing that will strike a traveller more 
 than the town or village of Jedrova. It consists 
 of one street, as broad as Piccadilly, formed by 
 the gable -ends of wooden huts, whose roofs 
 project far over their bases ; and this street is 
 terminated by the church. A view of one 
 of these towns will afford the Reader a very 
 correct idea of all the rest, as there is seldom 
 any difference in the mode of constructing the 
 poorer towns of Russia. A window in such 
 places is a mark of distinction, and seldom 
 found. The houses in general have only small 
 holes, through which, as you drive by, you 
 see a head stuck, as in a pillory 3 . 
 
 (2) The Imperial order for horses. Those who travel with post- 
 horses carry a hell. It serves, as the horn in Germany, to give notice 
 to persons on the road to turn out of the w ay ; such horses being in 
 the service of the Crown. 
 
 (3) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
44 
 
 FROM PETERSBURG 
 
 chap. Upon some of the women we observed such 
 hi. , 
 
 ■ ' stocking's as the Tirolese wear ; covering only 
 
 the lower part of the leg, about the ancle, with 
 
 a sort of cylinder formed by spiral hoops of 
 
 yrool. v 
 
 The forests, for the most part, consist of poor 
 stunted trees; and the road, in summer, is 
 described as the most abominable that can be 
 passed. It is then formed by whole trunks of 
 trees, laid across, parallel to each other ; which 
 occasion such violent jolting, as the wheels 
 move from one to the other, that it cannot be 
 borne without beds placed for the traveller to 
 sit or to lie upon. 
 
 Domestic We had a very interesting peep into the 
 the Pea- manners of the peasantry, for this we were 
 indebted to the breaking of our sledge at 
 Poschol. The woman of the house was prepar- 
 ing a dinner for the members of her family, who 
 
TO MOSCOW. 
 
 were gone to church. It consisted only of a 
 mess of pottage. Presently her husband, a 
 boor, came in, attended by his daughters, with 
 some small loaves of white bread not larger 
 than a pigeon’s egg : these the priest had con- 
 secrated, and they placed them with great care 
 before the bogh 1 2 . Then the bowing and cross- 
 ing commenced ; and they began their dinner, all 
 eating out of the same bowl. Dinner ended, 
 they went regularly to bed, as if to pass the 
 night there, crossing and bowing as before. 
 Having slept about an hour, one of the young 
 women, according to a custom constantly ob- 
 served, called her lather, and presented him 
 with a pot of vinegar, or Quass, the Russian 
 beverage *. The man then rose ; and a complete 
 fit of crossing and bowing seemed to seize him, 
 with interludes so inexpressibly characteristic 
 and ludicrous, that it was very difficult to pre- 
 serve gravity. The pauses of scratching and 
 grunting — the apostrophes to his wife, to him- 
 
 (1) This practice of placing an offering of bread from the Temple 
 before the Household God, was an antient Heathen custom. 
 
 (2) It is made by mixing flour and water together, and leaving it 
 till the acetous fermentation has taken place. The flavour is like that 
 of vinegar and water. It looks turbid, and is very unpleasant to 
 strangers ; but, by use, we became fond of it ; and in the houses of 
 Nobles, where attention is paid to its brewing, this acidulous 
 beverage is esteemed a delicacy, especially during summer. 
 
 * 
 
 45 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 III. 
 
FROM PETERSBURG 
 
 46 - 
 
 chap. self, and to his God — were such as drunken 
 * n '.’ ; Barnaby might have expressed in Latin, but 
 
 cannot be told in English. 
 
 Se rviie The picture of Russian manners varies little 
 Empire." 10 with reference to the Prince or the peasant. 
 The first nobleman in the empire, when dis- 
 missed by his Sovereign from attendance upon 
 his person, or withdrawing to his estate in con- 
 sequence of dissipation and debt, betakes him- 
 self to a mode of life little superior to that of 
 brutes. You will then find him, throughout the 
 day, with his neck bare, his beard lengthened, 
 his body wrapped in a sheep’s skin, eating raw 
 turnips, and drinking quass; sleeping one half 
 of the day, and growling at his wife and family 
 the other. The same feelings, the same wants, 
 wishes, and gratifications, then characterize the 
 nobleman and the peasant; and the same system 
 of tyranny, extending from the throne down- 
 wards, through all the bearings and ramifica- 
 tions of society, even to the cottage of the 
 lowest boor, has entirely extinguished every 
 spark of liberality in the breasts of a people 
 composed entirely of slaves. They are all, 
 high and low, rich and poor, alike servile to 
 superiors ; haughty and cruel to their depen- 
 dants ; ignorant, superstitious, cunning, brutal, 
 barbarous, dirty, mean. The Emperor canes 
 
TO MOSCOW. 4 J 
 
 the first of his grandees'; princes and nobles CI [ I 2 [ ^ P - 
 
 cane their slaves ; and the slaves, their wives — ' 
 
 and daughters. Ere the sun dawns in Russia, 
 flagellation begins; and throughout its vast 
 empire, cudgels are going, in every department 
 of its population, from morning until night. 
 
 Vyshney Voloshoh is a place of considerable Vyshney 
 importance, remarkable for the extensive canals 
 on which the great inland navigation of Russia 
 is carried on. A junction has been formed 
 between the Tvertza and the Msta, uniting, by 
 a navigable channel of at least five thousand 
 versts, the Caspian with the Baltic Sea*. Per- 
 haps there is not in the world an example of 
 inland navigation so extensive, obtained by 
 artificial means, and with so little labour; for 
 the Volga is navigable almost to its source ; and 
 three versts, at the utmost, is all the distance 
 
 (1) An officer chastised by the Emperor Paul, upon the Parade at 
 Petersburg, retired to his apartment and shot himself. By this it 
 should appear, that such ignominy from the hand of an Emperor is 
 not common. Peter the Great, however, used to take his Boyars by 
 the beard : and all Petersburg knows that Potemkin boxed the ears of 
 a Prince who presumed to applaud one of his jokes by clapping the 
 hands ; “ IV half said he, “ miscreant ! do you tutu: me for a stage- 
 player ? ” 
 
 (2) See the Appendix, for a full account of all the Internal Navi- 
 gation of Russia. This valuable document was communicated to the 
 author, since the publication of the First Edition, by Robert Corner, 
 Esq. a British Officer at Malta. 
 
FROM PETERSBURG 
 
 that has been cut through, in forming the 
 canal. The merchandize of Astracan, and of 
 other parts of the South of Russia, is brought to 
 this place. Above four thousand vessels pass 
 the canal annually. The town, or village, as it 
 is called, is full of buildings and shops. It is 
 spacious, and wears a stately thriving appear- 
 ance ; forming a striking contrast with the 
 miserable villages along this road. 
 
 At the different stations which occur in the 
 route from Petersburg to Moscow, are buildings 
 appropriated to the Emperor’s use, when he 
 passes. This rarely happens above once in a 
 reign. As there is hardly any place of accom- 
 modation for travellers, no harm would happen 
 to the buildings if they were used for this pur- 
 pose; neither would the national character 
 suffer by such hospitality. Of course we allude 
 to changes that may take place in better times ; 
 for when we traversed the country, kindness to 
 a stranger, and especially to an Englishman, 
 was a crime of the first magnitude, and might 
 prove the cause of a journey to Siberia. It is but 
 justice to make this apology foi* the conduct of 
 those under the immediate eye of Government. 
 
 From Vyshney Poloshok we come to TorshoJc, 
 seventy-one versts distant, remarkable for a 
 
TO MOSCOW. 
 
 spring, superstitiously venerated, and attracting chap. 
 pilgrims from all parts. This town has no less >■ j 
 than twenty churches : some of which are built 
 of stone. It is in a thriving condition. 
 
 At Tver, sixty-three versts farther, there is a Tver. 
 decent inn. A shop is also annexed to it, as it 
 sometimes happens in more northern parts of 
 Europe. This shop is kept by Italians, natives 
 of the Milanese territory, a vagrant tribe, whose Milanese 
 
 . , ~ Vagrants. 
 
 industry and enterprise carry them from the Lake 
 of Como to the remotest regions of the earth. 
 
 They are seen in all countries ; even in Lapland. 
 
 They generally carry a large basket, covered 
 with an oil-skin, containing cheap coloured 
 prints, mirrors, thermometers, and barometers ; 
 being, for the most part, men of ingenuity, of 
 uncommon perseverance, industry, and honesty. 
 
 Living with the most scrupulous economy, they 
 collect, after many years of wandering, their 
 hard earnings, and with these they return to 
 settle in the land of their fathers, sending out an 
 offspring as vagrant as themselves. 
 
 At Tver we beheld the Volga, and not without Volga. 
 considerable interest; for though bound in 
 “ thick-ribbed ice,” and covered with snow, the 
 consciousness of its mighty waters, navigable 
 almost to their source, rolling through a course 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 E 
 
FROM PETERSBURG 
 
 50 
 
 chap, of four thousand versts in extent, bearing wealth 
 . IH ~ j and plenty, is one of the most pleasing reflec- 
 tions. It seemed to connect us with the Cas- 
 pian, and the remote tribes of those nations, so 
 little known, who dwell upon its shores. 
 
 The situation of Tver, upon the lofty banks 
 of the Volga, is very grand. It has a number 
 of stone buildings; and its shops, as well as 
 churches, merit particular regard. The junction 
 of the Volga and the Tvertza is near the Street 
 of Millions. Pallas speaks of the delicious sterlet 
 taken from the Volga, with which travellers are 
 regaled in this town, at all seasons of the year. 
 
 The journey from Tver to Moscow in the 
 winter, with a khabitka', is performed in fifteen 
 hours. The road is broad, and more straight 
 than in the former route from Petersburg. But 
 in certain seasons, such as those of melting 
 snow, it is almost impassable. In the second 
 stage from Tver, between the sixth and seventh 
 versts from the post-house, on the left hand, 
 appeared an entire group of those antient 
 Tumuli. Tumuli before mentioned. They are so perfect 
 
 (1) The khabitka is the old Scythian waggon. In some parts of 
 Tahtary, the top takes off, and at night becomes a tent. Hence the 
 name given by the Russians to the tents of the Calmucks and Naghui- 
 Tahtprs ; both of which they call khabitka. 
 
TO MOSCOW. 
 
 51 
 
 in their forms, and so remarkably situate, that chap. 
 
 they cannot escape notice. We endeavoured to v y — 
 
 learn of the peasants if they had any tradition 
 concerning them. All the information they gave 
 us was, that they were constructed beyond all 
 memory, and were believed to contain bodies of 
 men slain in battle. A notion less reasonable, 
 although common to countries widely distant 
 from each other, is, that such mounds are 
 the tombs of giants. Thus, on the Hills near 
 Cambridge, two are shewn as the Tombs of 
 Gog and Magog, whence the name given to 
 the eminence where they are situate. The 
 Tomb of Tityus, the most antient of all those 
 mentioned in the History of Greece, is described 
 by Homer' 1 , as a mound of earth raised over the 
 spot on which that giant fell, warring against 
 the Gods. 
 
 Eighty-three versts from Tver we came to a Kim. 
 small settlement between two hills : this is 
 marked in the Russian Map as a town, and 
 called Klin. It hardly merits such distinction. 
 
 On the right, as we left it, appeared one of 
 those houses constructed for the accommodation 
 of the Empress Catherine, on her journey to 
 the Crimea. 
 
 (2) Pausanias saw it in Phocis , at the base of Parnassus , twenty 
 stadia from Chcrronea. 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 HAP. 
 
 III. 
 
 Palace of 
 Petrovsky. 
 
 Arrival at 
 Moscow- 
 
 The rising towers and spires of Moscow 
 greeted our eyes six versts before we reached 
 the city. The country around it is flat and 
 open ; and the town, spreading over an immense 
 district, equals, by its majestic appearance, that 
 of Rome, when viewed at an equal distance. As 
 we approached the barrier of Moscow, we 
 beheld, on the left, the large palace of Petrovsky, 
 built of brick. It wears an appearance of great 
 magnificence, though the style of architecture 
 is cumbrous and heavy. It was erected for 
 the accommodation of the Russian Sovereigns, 
 during their visits to Moscow ; the inhabitants 
 of which city pretend that none of them durst 
 take up a lodging within its walls, being kept 
 much more in awe of their subjects than they 
 are at Petersburg. It is said the Empress 
 Catherine used to call Moscow her little 
 haughty republic 1 . This palace is about four 
 Versts from the city. 
 
 Arriving at the barrier, we were some time 
 detained during the examination of our pass- 
 ports. This entrance to the city, like most of 
 the others, is a gate with two columns, one on 
 
 (l) “ Ils ne m’aiment pas beaucoup, (dit ellc ;)— je ne suis point 
 & la mode t Moscou.” 
 
 Lett, et Pens, du Prince de Ligne, tome i. p. 146. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 53 
 
 each side, surmounted oy eagles' 2 . On the left chap. 
 is the guard-house. Within this gate a number \ , 
 of slaves were employed, removing the mud 
 from the streets, which had been caused by 
 the melting of the snow. Peasants with their 
 khabithas, in great numbers, were leaving the 
 town. Into these vehicles the slaves amused 
 themselves by heaping as much of the mud as 
 they could collect, unperceived by the drivers, 
 who sat in front. The officer appointed to 
 superintend their labour chanced to arrive and 
 detect them in their filthy work, and we hoped 
 he would instantly have prohibited such an 
 insult from being offered to the poor men. His 
 conduct, however, only served to afford another 
 trait of the national character. Instead of pre- 
 venting any further attack upon the khabithas, 
 he seemed highly entertained by the ingenuity 
 of the contrivance ; and, to encourage the sport, 
 ordered every peasant to halt, and to hold his 
 horse, while they filled his khabitha with the 
 mud and ordure of the streets ; covering with 
 it the provisions of the poor peasants, and 
 whatever else their khabithas might contain, 
 with which they were going peaceably to their 
 wives and families. At last, to complete their 
 scandalous oppression, they compelled each 
 
 (2) See the Vignette to Chap. V. of this Volume. 
 
54 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, peasant, as he passed, to sit down in his 
 „ .... khabitka, and then they covered him also with 
 
 the black and stinking mud. At this unex- 
 ampled instance of cruelty and insult, some 
 of the peasants, more spirited than the rest, 
 ventured to murmur. Instantly, blows, with a 
 heavy cudgel, on the head and shoulders, 
 silenced the poor wretches’ complaints. Before 
 this began, the two sentinels at the gate had 
 stopped every bhabilka, as it passed, with a 
 very different motive. First, a loud and 
 menacing tone of voice seemed to indicate some 
 order of Government; but it was quickly 
 silenced, and became a whisper, in consequence 
 of a small piece of money being slipped into 
 their hands by the peasants ; when they passed 
 on without further notice. If the practice con- 
 tinues, the post of sentinel at a Russian barrier 
 must be more profitable than that of a staff- 
 officer in the service. We were witness to 
 upwards of fifty extorted contributions of this 
 nature, in the course of half an hour, when the 
 plunder ended as has been described. 
 
 A miserable whiskered figure on horseback, 
 intended for a dragoon, was now appointed to 
 conduct us to the Commandant’s ; and here our 
 poderosnoy, together with our other passports, 
 underwent a second examination. The snow 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 55 
 
 was by this time entirely melted; and the 
 sledge upon which our carriage moved was 
 dragged over the stones by six horses, with so 
 much difficulty, that at last the drivers gave 
 it up, and declared the carriage would break, 
 or the horses drop, if we compelled them to 
 advance. The dragoon said we must take 
 every thing, exactly as we arrived, to the 
 Commandant's ; and proceed sitting in the 
 carriage. At the same time he threatened the 
 peasants with a flagellation; and giving one 
 of them a blow over his loins, bade him halt 
 at his peril. Another effort was of course 
 made, and the sledge flew to pieces. It was 
 highly amusing to observe the dilemma into 
 which the dragoon was now thrown ; as it was not 
 probable either his menaces or his blows would 
 again put the carriage in motion. A droshy 
 was procured, on which we were ordered to 
 sit ; and thus we proceeded to the Comman- 
 dant. From the Commandant we were next 
 ordered to the Intendant of the Police: and 
 all this did not save us from the visits and 
 the insolence of two or thi’ee idle officers, 
 lounging about as spies, who entered our apart- 
 ments, examined every thing we had, and asked 
 a number of frivolous and impertinent questions, 
 with a view to extort money. Some of them 
 found their way even into our bed-rooms, when 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 hi. 
 
56 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, we were absent, and gave our servant sufficient 
 in ' ; employment to prevent them from indulging 
 a strong national tendency to pilfer ; a species 
 of larceny which actually took place afterwards, 
 committed by persons much their superiors 
 in rank. 
 
 The accommodations for travellers are beyond 
 description bad, both in Petersburg and in Mos- 
 cow. In the latter, nothing but necessity would 
 render them sufferable. Three roubles a day 
 are demanded for a single room, or rather a 
 kennel, in which an Englishman would blush 
 to keep his dogs. The dirt on the floor may 
 be removed only with an iron hoe, or a shovel. 
 These places are entirely destitute of beds. 
 They consist of bare walls, with two or three 
 old stuffed chairs, ragged, rickety, and full of 
 vermin. The walls themselves are still more 
 disgusting, as the Russians cover them with 
 the most abominable filth. 
 
 In thus giving the result of impressions made 
 on entering this remarkable city, we might 
 appeal to some of the first families in the 
 empire for the veracity of the statement ; but 
 such a test of their liberality would materially 
 affect their safety. We shall therefore un- 
 reservedly proceed to relate what we have 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 seen, in that confidence which a due regard to 
 truth will always inspire. Moscow contains much 
 worth notice; much that may compensate for 
 the fatigue and privation required in going 
 thither — for the filthiness of its hotels, the 
 profligacy of its nobles, and the villainy of 
 its police. 
 
 57 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 III. 
 
CHAP. IV. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Peculiarities of Climate — Impressions made on a first 
 Arrival — Russian Hotel — Persian, Kirgisian, and 
 Pucharian Ambassadors — Fasts and Festivals 
 Ceremonies observed at Easter — Palm Sunday — Holy 
 Thursday — Magnificent Ceremony of the Resurrection 
 
 Excesses of the Populace — Presentation of the 
 
 Paschal Eggs— Ball of the Peasants— Ball of the 
 Nobles — Characteristic Incident of Caprice in Dress. 
 
 ( HAP. r p HERE j s nothing more extraordinary in this 
 Peiniiiari- country than the transition of the seasons. The 
 climate, people of Moscow have no spring: Winter 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 59 
 
 fvanish.es, and summer is ! This is not the work chai 1 . 
 
 of a week, or a day, but of one instant ; and the > v 
 
 manner of it exceeds belief. We came from 
 Petersburg to Moscow in sledges. The next 
 day, snow was gone. On the eighth of April, 
 at mid-day, snow beat in at our carriage win- 
 dows. On the same day, at sun-set, arriving 
 in Moscoiv, we had difficulty in being dragged 
 through the mud to the Commandant’s. The 
 next morning the streets were dry, the double 
 windows had been removed from the houses, 
 the casements thrown open, all the carriages 
 were upon wheels, and the balconies filled with 
 spectators. A few days afterwards, we expe- 
 rienced 73° of heat, according to the scale 
 of Fahrenheit, when the thermometer was 
 placed in the shade at noon. 
 
 We arrived at the season of the year in impre®. 
 
 . . ... , • , , sions made 
 
 which this city is most interesting to strangers. on a first 
 Moscow is in every thing extraordinary ; as well amva ' 
 in disappointing expectation, as in surpassing it ; 
 in causing wonder and derision, pleasure and 
 regret. Let the Reader be conducted back 
 again to the gate by which we entered, and 
 thence through the streets. Numerous spires, 
 glittering with gold, amidst burnished domes 
 and painted palaces, appear in the midst of an 
 open plain, for several versts before you reach 
 
60 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, this gate. Having passed, you look about, and 
 1V . j wonder what is become of the city, or where 
 you are ; and are ready to ask, once more, How 
 far is it to Moscow ? They will tell you, “ This 
 is Moscow /” and you behold nothing but a wide 
 and scattered suburb, huts, gardens, pig-sties, 
 brick walls, churches, dunghills, palaces, timber- 
 yards, warehouses, and a refuse, as it were, of 
 materials sufficient to stock an empire with 
 miserable towns and miserable villages. One 
 might imagine all the States of Europe and 
 Asia had sent a building, by way of represen- 
 tative to Moscow : and under this impression 
 the eye is presented with deputies from all 
 countries, holding congress : timber-huts from 
 regions beyond the Arctic ; plastered palaces 
 from Sweden and Denmark, not white-washed 
 since their arrival; painted walls from the 
 Tirol; mosques from Constantinople; Talitar 
 temples from Bucharia; pagodas, pavilions, 
 and virandas, from China; cabarets from Spain; 
 dungeons, prisons, and public offices, from 
 France; architectural ruins from Rome; ter- 
 races and trellisses from Naples; and ware- 
 houses from Wapping. 
 
 Having heard accounts of its immense popu- 
 lation, you wander through deserted streets. 
 Passing suddenly towards the quarter where 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 61 
 
 the shops are situate, you might walk upon chap. 
 the heads of thousands. The daily throng is v. — , — ' 
 there so immense, that, unable to force a passage 
 through it, or assign any motive that might 
 convene such a multitude, you ask the cause, 
 and are told that it is always the same. Nor is 
 the costume less various than the aspect of 
 the buildings : Greeks, Turks, Tahtars, Cos- 
 sacks, Chinese, Muscovites, English, French, 
 
 Italians, Poles, Germans, all parade in the 
 habits of their respective countries. 
 
 We were in a Russian inn: a complete epi- Russian 
 
 r 1 Hotel. 
 
 tome of the city itself. The next room to ours 
 was filled by an ambassador, and his suite, 
 from Persia. In a chamber beyond the Persians, Persian, 
 
 J Kirgisian, 
 
 lodged a party of Kirgisians ; a people yet un- andi3uch{v 
 known, and any of whom might be exhibited bossadors. 
 in a cage, as some newly-discovered species. 
 
 They had bald heads, covered by conical em- 
 broidered caps, and wore sheep-skins. Beyond 
 the Kirgisians lodged a nidus of Bucharians, 
 wild as the asses of Numidia. All these were 
 ambassadors from their different districts, ex- 
 tremely jealous of each other, who had been to 
 Petersburg, to treat of commerce, peace, and 
 war. The doors of all our chambers opened 
 into one gloomy passage ; so that sometimes we 
 all encountered, and formed a curious masque- 
 
62 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IV. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 rade. The Kirgisians and Bucharians were best 
 at arm’s length ; but the worthy old Persian, 
 whose name was Orazai, often exchanged visits 
 with us. He brought us presents, according to 
 the custom of his country; and was much 
 pleased with an English pocket-knife we had 
 given him, with which he said he should shave 
 his head. At his devotions, he stood silent for 
 an hour together, on two small carpets, bare- 
 footed, with his face towards Mecca ; holding, 
 as he said, intellectual converse with Mohammed. 
 
 Orazai came from Tarky, near Derbenl, on the 
 western shore of the Caspian. He had with 
 him his nephew, and a Cossack interpreter from 
 Mount Caucasus. His beard and whiskers were 
 long and grey, though his eye-brows and eyes 
 were black. On his head he wore a large cap 
 of fine black wool. His dress was a jacket of 
 silk, over which was thrown a large loose robe 
 of the same materials, edged with gold. His 
 feet were covered with yellow Morocco 
 slippers, which were without soles, and fitted 
 like gloves. All his suite joined in prayer, 
 morning and evening ; but the old man conti- 
 nued his devotions long after he had dismissed 
 his attendants. Their poignards were of such 
 excellent steel, that our English swords were 
 absolutely cut by them. Imitations of these 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 63 
 
 poignards are sold in Moscow, but of worse 
 materials than the swords from England. When v 
 they sit, which they generally do during the 
 whole day, they have their feet bare. Orazai 
 was very desirous that we should visit Persia. 
 Taking out a reed, and holding it in his left 
 hand, he began to write from right to left, put- 
 ting down our names, and noting the infor- 
 mation we gave him of England. Afterwards 
 he wrote his own name, in fair Persian cha- 
 racters, and gave it to us, as a memorial by 
 which to recognise us if we ever should visit 
 Persia. 
 
 Upon the journey, they both purchased and 
 sold slaves. He offered an Indian negro, who 
 acted as his cook, for twelve hundred roubles. 
 An amusing embarrassment took place whenever 
 a little dog belonging to us found his way into 
 the ambassador’s room. The Persians imme- 
 diately drew up their feet, and hastily caught 
 up all their clothes, retiring as far back as 
 possible upon their couches. They told us, 
 that if a dog touch even the skirt of their 
 clothing, they are thereby defiled, and cannot 
 say their prayers without changing every thing, 
 and undergoing complete purification. His 
 slaves sometimes played the balalaika, or guitar 
 with two strings. The airs were very lively. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IV. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 64 
 
 chap and not unlike our English hornpipe. The 
 i ; ambassador’s nephew obliged us by exhibiting 
 a Persian dance ; which seemed to consist of 
 keeping the feet close together, hardly evei 
 lifting them from the ground, and moving 
 slowly, to quick measure, round the room. 
 They drink healths as we do; and eat with 
 their fingers, like the Arabs, all out of one dish, 
 which is generally of boiled rice. If they eat 
 meat, it is rarely any other than mutton, stewed 
 into soup. The young man drank of^ the Russian 
 beverage called hydromel, a kind of mead ; and 
 sometimes, but rarely, he smoked tobacco. 
 The ambassador never used a pipe; which 
 surprised us, as the custom is almost universal 
 in the East. Their kindness to their slaves was 
 that of parents to children : the old man ap- 
 pearing, like another Abraham, the common 
 father of all his attendants. The dress of their 
 interpreter, a Cossack of the Volga, was very 
 rich. It consisted of a jacket of purple cloth 
 lined with silk, and a silk waistcoat, both with- 
 out buttons; a rich shawl round his waist; 
 large trowsers of scarlet cloth ; and a magni- 
 ficent sabre. 
 
 Ambassadors of other more Oriental hordes 
 drove into the court-yard of the inn, from 
 Petersburg. The Emperor had presented each 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 of them with a barouche. Nothing could be 
 more ludicrous than was their appearance. 
 Out of respect to the sovereign, they had main- 
 tained a painful struggle to preserve a sitting 
 posture in the carriage, but cross-legged, like 
 Turks. The snow having melted, they had 
 been jolted in this posture over the trunks of 
 trees, which form a timber causeway between 
 Petersburg and Moscow ; so that, w hen taken 
 from their fine new carriages, they could hardly 
 move, and made the most pitiable grimaces 
 imaginable. A few days after their arrival at 
 Moscow, they ordered all their carriages to be 
 sold, for whatever sum any person would 
 offer. 
 
 It is now time to take leave of our Ori- 
 ental friends and fellow-lodgers, that w r e may 
 give an account of the ceremonies of Easter. 
 The people of Moscow celebrate the Pique with 
 a degree of pomp and festivity unknown to 
 the rest of Europe. The most splendid pa- 
 geants of Rome do not equal the costliness 
 and splendour of the Russian Church. Neither 
 could Venice, in the midst of her Carnival, ever 
 rival, in debauchery and superstition, in licen- 
 tiousness and parade, what passes during this 
 season in Moscow. 
 
 VOL. i. p 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 It should first be mentioned, there are no 
 people who observe Lent with more scrupulous 
 and excessive rigour than the Russians. Tra- 
 velling the road from Petersburg to Moscow, if 
 at any time, in poor cottages, where the pea- 
 sants appeared starving, we offered them a 
 part of our dinner, they would shudder at the 
 sight of it, and cast it to the dogs; dashing 
 out of their children’s hands, as an abomina- 
 tion, any food given to them ; and removing 
 every particle that might be left, entiiely fiom 
 their sight. In drinking tea with a Cossack, he 
 not only refused to have milk in his cup, but 
 would not use a spoon that had been in the 
 tea offered him with milk, although wiped care- 
 fully in a napkin, until it had passed through 
 scalding water. The same privation takes 
 place among the higher ranks ; but, in propor- 
 tion as this rigour has been observed, so much 
 the more excessive is the degree of gluttony 
 and relaxation, when the important intelligence 
 that “ Christ is risen ” has issued from the 
 mouth of the archbishop. During Easter they 
 run into every kind of excess, rolling about 
 drunk the whole week ; as if rioting, debauch- 
 ery, extravagance, gambling, drinking, and 
 fornication, were as much a religious obser- 
 vance as starving had been belore ; and that the 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 same superstition which kept them fasting 
 during Lent, had afterwards instigated them 
 to the most beastly excesses. 
 
 Even their religious customs are perfectly 
 adapted to their climate and manners. No- 
 thing can be contrived with more ingenious 
 policy to suit the habits of the Russians. When 
 Lent fasting begins, their stock of frozen pro- 
 visions is either exhausted, or unfit for use; 
 and the interval that takes place allows suffi- 
 cient time for procuring, killing, and storing, 
 the fresh provisions of the Spring. The night 
 before the famous ceremony of the Resurrection, 
 all the markets and shops of Moscow are seen 
 filled with flesh, butter, eggs, poultry, pigs, 
 and every kind of food. The crowd of pur- 
 chasers is immense. You hardly meet a foot- 
 passenger who has not his hands, nay his arms, 
 filled with provisions ; or a single drosky that 
 is not ready to break down beneath their 
 weight. 
 
 The first ceremony which took place, pre- 
 vious to all this feasting, was that of the Pdque 
 .fleuries, or Palm Sunday. On the eve of this 
 day the inhabitants of Moscow resort, in car- 
 riages, on horseback, or on foot, to the Kremlin, 
 for the purchase of palm-branches, to place 
 
 f 2 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 before their Boghs, and to decorate the sacred 
 pictures in the streets, or elsewhere. It is 
 one of the gayest promenades ot the year. 
 The Governor, attended by the Maitre de Police, 
 the Commandant, and a train of nobility, go 
 in procession, mounted on fine horses. The 
 streets are lined with spectators ; and cavalry 
 are stationed on each side, to preserve order. 
 Arriving in the Kremlin, a vast assembly, bear- 
 ing artificial bouquets and boughs, are seen 
 moving here and there, forming the novel and 
 striking spectacle of a gay and moving forest. 
 The boughs consist of artificial flowers, with 
 fruit. Beautiful representations of oranges and 
 lemons in wax are sold for a few copeeks each, 
 and offer a proof of the surprising ingenuity 
 of this people in the arts of imitation. Upon 
 this occasion, every person who visits the 
 Kremlin, and would be thought a true Christian, 
 purchases one or more of the boughs called 
 Palm-branches ; and, in returning, the streets 
 are crowded with droshies, and all kinds ot 
 vehicles, filled with devotees, holding in their 
 hands one or more palm-branches, according to 
 the degree of their piety, or the number of 
 Boghs in their houses. 
 
 The description often given of the splen- 
 dour of the equipages in Moscow but ill agrees 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 09 
 
 with their appearance during Lent. A stranger, chap. 
 
 who arrives with his head full of notions of v——*' 
 
 Asiatic pomp and Eastern magnificence, would 
 be surprised to find narrow streets, execrably 
 paved, covered with mud or dust; wretched- 
 looking houses on each side ; carriages drawn, 
 it is true, by six horses, but such cattle ! blind, 
 lame, old, out of condition, of all sizes and all 
 colours, connected by rotten ropes and old 
 cords, full of knots and splices; on the leaders, 
 and on the box, figures that seem to have 
 escaped the galleys; behind, a lousy, ragged 
 lackey, or perhaps two, with countenances ex- 
 citing more pity than derision; and the cairiage 
 itself like the worst of the night-coaches in 
 London. But this external wretchedness, as 
 far as it concerns the equipages of the nobles, 
 admits of some explanation. The tact is, that 
 a dirty tattered livery, a rotten harness, bad 
 horses, and a shabby vehicle, constitute one 
 part of the privation of the season. On Easter 
 Monday the most gaudy but fantastic splendour 
 fills every street in the city. 
 
 The second grand ceremony of this season Maunday 
 takes place on Thursday before Easter, at noon, 
 when the archbishop is said to wash the feet 
 of the Apostles. This we also witnessed. The 
 priests appeared in their most gorgeous apparel. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 7 o 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IV. 
 
 ' ' 
 
 Ceremony 
 of the Re- 
 surrection. 
 
 Twelve monks, designed to represent the twelve 
 Apostles , were placed in a semicircle before 
 the archbishop. The ceremony was performed 
 in the cathedral, which was crowded with 
 spectators. The archbishop, performing all 
 and much more than is related of our Saviour 
 in the thirteenth chapter of St. John, took off 
 his robes, girded up his loins with a towel, and 
 proceeded to wash the feet of all the monks, 
 until he came to the representative of Peter, 
 who rose and stood up; and the same inter- 
 locution passed, between him and the archbishop, 
 which is recorded to have taken place between 
 our Saviour and the apostle. 
 
 The third, and most magnificent ceremony 
 of all, is celebrated two hours after midnight, 
 in the morning of Easter Sunday. It is called 
 the Ceremony of the Resurrection, and certainly 
 exceeds every thing of the kind at Rome ; not 
 even excepting the Papal benediction, during the 
 holy week. 
 
 At midnight, the great bell of the cathedral 
 tolled. Its vibrations seemed to be the rolling 
 of distant thunder; and they were instantly 
 accompanied by the noise of all the bells in 
 Moscoiv. Every inhabitant was stirring, and 
 the rattling of carriages in th§ streets was 
 
 I 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 71 
 
 greater than at noon-day. The whole city was 
 in a blaze ; lights were seen in all the windows, 
 and innumerable torches in the streets. The 
 tower of the cathedral was illuminated from its 
 foundation to its cross. The same ceremony 
 takes place in all the churches ; and, what is 
 truly surprising, considering their number, they 
 are all equally crowded. 
 
 We hastened to the cathedral : it was filled 
 with a prodigious assembly, consisting of all 
 ranks of both sexes, bearing lighted wax tapers, 
 to be afterwards heaped as vows upon the 
 different shrines. The walls, the ceilings, and 
 every part of this building, are covered by the 
 pictures of Saints and Martyrs. In the mo- 
 ment of our arrival, the doors were shut ; and 
 on the outside appeared Plato, the archbishop, 
 preceded by banners and torches, and followed 
 by all his train of priests, with crucifixes and 
 censers, who were making three times, in pro- 
 cession, the tour of the cathedral ; chaunting 
 with loud voices ; and glittering in sumptuous 
 vestments, bespangled with gold, silver, and 
 precious stones. The snow had not melted so 
 rapidly within the Kremlin as in the streets of 
 the city : this magnificent procession was there- 
 fore constrained to move upon planks, over 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IV. 
 
 ' — , — > 
 
72 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IV. 
 
 ' ' 
 
 the deep mud which surrounded the cathedral. 
 After completing the third circuit, they all 
 halted opposite the great doors, which were 
 still closed; the archbishop, with a censer, 
 then scattered incense against the doors, and 
 over the priests. Suddenly, these doors were 
 opened, and the effect was magnificent beyond 
 description. The immense throng ot spec- 
 tators within, bearing innumerable tapers, 
 formed two lines, through which the arch- 
 bishop entered, advancing with his train to a 
 throne near the centre. The profusion of lights 
 in all parts of the cathedral, and, among others, 
 of the enormous chandelier in the centre, the 
 richness of the dresses, and the vastness of the 
 assembly, filled us with astonishment. Having 
 joined the suite of the archbishop, we accom- 
 panied the procession, and passed even to the 
 throne: here the police-officers permitted us 
 
 to stand, among the priests, near an embioi- 
 dered stool of satin placed for the archbishop. 
 The loud chorus, which burst forth at the en- 
 trance to the church, continued as the proces- 
 sion moved towards the throne, and after the 
 archbishop had taken his seat ; when my atten- 
 tion was for a moment called oft, by seeing 
 one of the Russians earnestly crossing himself 
 with his right hand, while his left was employed 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 in picking my companion’s pocket of his hand” 
 kerchief 1 . 
 
 Soon after, the archbishop descended, and 
 went all round the cathedral ; first offering in- 
 cense to the priests, and then to the people as 
 he passed along. When he had returned to 
 his seat, the priests, two by two, performed 
 the same ceremony, beginning with the arch- 
 bishop, who rose and made obeisance, with a 
 lighted taper in his hand. From the moment 
 the church doors were opened, the spectators 
 had continued bowing their heads and crossing 
 themselves ; insomuch, that some ot the people 
 seemed really exhausted, by the constant mo- 
 tion of the head and hands. 
 
 We had now leisure to examine the dresses 
 and figures of the priests, which were certainly 
 the most striking we had ever seen. Their 
 long dark hair, without powder, fell down, in 
 ringlets, or straight and thick, far over their 
 rich robes and shoulders, Their dark thick 
 beards, also, entirely covered their breasts. 
 Upon the heads of the archbishop and bishops 
 were high caps, covered with gems, and adorned 
 
 ( l j Like Potemkin, “ D'une main Jaisant ties sign's aux femmes 
 qui lui plaisent, et de V autre des signes de croix” Lett, et Pens, du 
 Prince de Ligne, tome ii. p. 6, 
 
74 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IV. 
 
 ' ' 
 
 by miniature paintings, set in jewels, of the 
 Crucifixion, the Virgin, and the Saints. Their 
 robes of various-coloured satin were of the 
 most costly embroidery ; and even upon these 
 were miniature pictures set with precious 
 stones'. Such, according to the consecrated 
 record of antient days, was the appearance of 
 the high-priests of old ; of Aaron and of his 
 sons ; holy men, standing by the tabernacle of 
 the congregation, in fine raiments, the work- 
 manship of “ Bezaleel, the son of Uri, the son 
 of Hur, of the tribe of Judah.” It is said there 
 is a convent in Moscow where women are en- 
 tirely employed in working dresses for the 
 priests. 
 
 After two hours had been spent in various 
 ceremonies, the archbishop advanced, holding 
 forth a cross, which all the people crowded to 
 embrace, squeezing each other nearly to suffo- 
 cation. As soon, however, as their eagerness 
 had been somewhat satisfied, he retired to the 
 sacristy, under a pretence of seeking for the 
 body of Christ ; where putting on a plain purple 
 robe, he again advanced, exclaiming three times, 
 in a very loud voice, “ Christ is risen ! 5 
 
 (1) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 (2) The whole of this pretended search for the body of Christ, and 
 the subsequent shout of “ Christos voscress !" is a repetition of the old 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 75 
 
 The most remarkable part of the solemnity CI ™ P ' 
 now followed. The archbishop, descending into ^ . — ' 
 the body of the church, concluded the whole 
 ceremony by crawling round the pavement on 
 his hands and knees, kissing the consecrated 
 pictures, whether on the pillars, the walls, the 
 altars, or the tombs; the priests and all the 
 people imitating his example. Sepulchres were 
 opened, and the mummied bodies of incorrup- 
 tible saints exhibited : all of these underwent 
 the same general kissing. 
 
 Thus was Easter proclaimed: and riot and Excesses of 
 
 1 . the Popu- 
 
 debauchery instantly broke loose. The inn lace, 
 where we lodged became a P andremonium. 
 Drinking, dancing, and singing, continued 
 through the night and day. But, in the midst 
 of all these excesses, quarrels hardly ever took 
 place. The wild, rude riot of a Russian popu- 
 lace is full of humanity. Few disputes are 
 heard ; no blows are given ; no lives endan- 
 gered, but by drinking. No meetings take 
 place, of any kind, without repeating the ex- 
 pressions of peace and joy, Christos voscress ! 
 
 Heathen ceremony respecting the Finding of Osiris. Plutarch de- 
 scribes the same sort of procession and ceremony ; adding, “Then all 
 that are present cry out with a loud voice, Osiris is foun'd!” Kol 1 ylnveu 
 x^a.vy)\ rcov Trot/jovruv, vs iv^vifiivou rov ’O tr'ioibos. Plut . de Isid . et Osir, 
 
 c. 39. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 7 6 
 
 chap. Christ is risen!— to which the answer always is 
 . U ' v the same, Vo istiney voscress! He is risen 
 indeed ! 
 
 Presenta- 
 tion of the 
 Paschal 
 
 Pggs- 
 
 On Easter Monday begins the presentation of 
 the Paschal eggs : lovers to their mistresses, 
 relatives to each other, servants to then mas- 
 ters, all bring ornamented eggs. Every offering 
 at this season is called a Paschal egg. The 
 meanest pauper in the street, presenting an 
 egg, and repeating the words Christos vosciess, 
 may demand a salute even of the Empress. 
 All business is laid aside ; the upper ranks are 
 engaged in visiting, balls, dinners, suppers, 
 masquerades ; while boors fill the air with 
 their songs, or roll intoxicated about the streets. 
 Servants appear in new and tawdry liveries, 
 and carriages in the most sumptuous deco- 
 ration. 
 
 Bail of the in the midst of this uproar we made our-, 
 1 cat-anu.. ge j veg ag muc i, ]jk e Russians as possible, and 
 
 went in caftans to one of the public balls of 
 the citizens, given in our inn. It was held in 
 a suite of several apartments ; and a numerous 
 band of music, composed of violins, wind 
 instruments, and kettle-drums, had been pro- 
 vided. The master of the inn had also taken 
 care to invite a company of gipsies, to entertain 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 the Company by their dancing. A single rouble 
 was demanded as the price ot admission. All 
 fears of appearing like foreigners vanished 
 upon our entering the principal ball-room , tor 
 we found an assembly as various in their appear- 
 ance as the motley members ot a masquerade. 
 Upon some benches was squatted a groupe 
 of Turks, regarding the scene with their usual 
 gravity and indifference, unmoved by shouts 
 of joy or by tumultuous songs, by the noise 
 of the dancing, or by the thundering of a pair 
 of kettle-drums close to their ears. In another 
 room was a party of Bucharians, with flat noses, 
 high cheek-bones, and little eyes ; their heads 
 shaven, and having small conical embroidered 
 caps on the top of their bald sculls : these men 
 wore red morocco boots, long trowsers of blue 
 cloth, with a girdle and a poignard. Besides 
 the Bucharians, were Chinese merchants, Cossacks, 
 and even Calmucks, all of whom- appeared as 
 spectators. In the middle of the room, the 
 Russian boors, and the tradesmen of the city, 
 were dancing with prostitutes, while their own 
 wives and daughters were walking about. 
 A party of gipsies was performing the national 
 dance, called, from the air by which it is 
 accompanied, Barina. It resembled our Eng- 
 lish hornpipe, and was full of expressions of 
 the most ferocious licentiousness. The male 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 dancer expressed his savage joy in squeaks, 
 contortions, and sudden convulsive spasms 
 that seemed to agitate his whole frame ; stand- 
 ing sometimes still, then howling, whining 
 tenderly, or trembling in all his limbs to the 
 music, which was very animating. This dance, 
 although extremely common in Russia, they con- 
 fess to have derived from the gipsies ; and it may 
 therefore seem probable that our hornpipe was 
 introduced by the same people. Other gipsies 
 were telling fortunes, according to their uni- 
 versal practice, or begging for presents of 
 oranges and ice. This extraordinary people, 
 found in all parts of Europe, was originally 
 one of the casts of India, driven out of their 
 own territory: they are distinguished among 
 Indian tribes by a name which signifies Thieves'. 
 They have a similar appellation among the 
 Finlanders. They preserve every-where the 
 same features, manners, and customs, and, 
 what is more remarkable, almost always the 
 same mode of dress. The extraordinary re- 
 semblance of the female gipsies to the women 
 of India was remarked by our officers and men 
 in Egypt, when General Baird arrived with his 
 
 e 
 
 (l) See the Commentary of Professor P or than, of Abo in Finland , 
 upon the Chronicle of that University. His works are not sufficiently 
 known. He has written the History and Origin of the Finland 
 Tribes ; and a very erudite Dissertation concerning the Gipsies. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 army to join Lord Hutchinson. The seapoys 
 had many of their women with them, who were 
 exactly like our gipsies. In regulating their 
 dress, they lavish all their finery upon their 
 head. Their costume in Russia is very different 
 from that of the natives ; they wear enormous 
 caps, covered with ribbons, and decorated in 
 front with a prodigious quantity of silver coins ; 
 these form a matted mail-work over their fore- 
 heads. They also wear the same coins as 
 necklaces, and a smaller kind as pendants to 
 their ears. The Russians hold them in great 
 contempt, never speaking of them without 
 abuse; and feel themselves contaminated by 
 their touch, unless it be to have their fortune 
 told. They believe gipsies not only have the 
 wish, but the power, to cheat every one they 
 see, and therefore generally avoid them. For- 
 merly they were more dispersed over Russia, 
 and paid no tribute ; but now they are collected, 
 and all belong to one nobleman, to whom they 
 pay a certain tribute, and rank among the 
 number of his slaves. They accompany their 
 dances with singing, and loud clapping of the 
 hands ; breaking forth, at intervals, with shrieks 
 and short expressive cries, adapted to the sud- 
 den movements, gestures, and turns of the dance. 
 The male dancers hold in one hand a hand- 
 kerchief, which they wave about, and manage 
 
, 0 MOSCOW. 
 
 ciiaP. with grace as well as art. The dance, like 
 n ' . that of the Almehs in Egypt, although lull ot 
 the grossest libidinous expression, and most 
 indecent posture, is in other respects graceful. 
 Nothing can be more so than the manner in 
 
 \ 
 
 which they sometimes wave and extend their 
 arms : it resembles the attitudes of Bacchana- 
 lians represented on Greek vases. But the 
 women do not often exhibit those attitudes . 
 they generally maintain a stiff upright position, 
 keeping their feet close, and beating a tattoo 
 with their high heels. 
 
 When the Russians dance the Larina, it is 
 accompanied with the balalaika. Formerly 
 the nobles were great admirers of that simple 
 and pleasing instrument ; but now, imitating 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 the manners of France and England, they have 
 
 laid it aside. Many of them are still able to v 1 
 
 use it ; but as they deem such an accomplish- 
 ment a sort of degradation in the eyes of 
 foreigners, they are seldom prevailed upon to 
 betray their skill; like many of the Welsh 
 ladies, who, scarcely able to speak English, 
 affect ignorance of their native tongue. 
 
 Collected in other parts of rooms opened 
 for this assembly, were vocal performers, in 
 parties of ten or twelve each, singing volunta- 
 ries. They preserved the most perfect har- 
 mony, each taking a separate part, although 
 without any seeming consciousness of the skill 
 thus exerted. The female dancers and assist- 
 ants in this ball were many of them prostitutes ; 
 but the wives and daughters of the peasants 
 and lower tradesmen mingled with these 
 women, dressed out in their full national 
 costume, and were apparently not at all dis- 
 pleased with such society. 
 
 The ball of the nobles admits of a very diffe- nail of the 
 
 J Nobles. 
 
 rent description. It took place every Tuesday, 
 and, it may be truly said, that Europe exhibits 
 nothing like it. The laws of the society exclude 
 every person who is by birth a plebeian', and 
 this exclusion has been extended to foreigners ; 
 
 vol. r. G 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 therefore we felt grateful in being allowed 
 admission. Prince Fiazemskoy, who married an 
 English lady, kindly procured tickets for us; 
 notwithstanding the danger at that time of 
 shewing kindness and attention to Englishmen 1 . 
 If his Excellency be now living, he is requested 
 to pardon this testimony of his generous conde- 
 scension. The author feels sensible that a 
 congeniality of sentiment will render any apo- 
 logy superfluous for the sacrifice he has else- 
 where made in the cause of truth. 
 
 The coup d'aeil, upon entering the grand 
 saloon, is inconceivable. The company con- 
 sisted of near two thousand persons. The 
 dresses were the most sumptuous that can be 
 imagined; and, what is more remaikable, they 
 were conceived in the purest taste, and were 
 in a high degree becoming. The favourite 
 ornaments of the ladies, at this time, were 
 cameos, which they wore upon their arms, in 
 girdles round their waists, or upon their 
 bosoms ; a mode of adorning the fair that has 
 since found its way to our own country, and 
 
 (1)1 Wish to lay particular stress upon this circumstance, as almost 
 all travellers have celebrated Russian hospitality, ai.d particularly that 
 of the inhabitants of Moscow. “ ^'hospitality des Russes," say the 
 Authors of the Voyage de Deux Fmvyais, “ parolt ici dans tout son 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 was originally derived from Paris-, but the 
 women of France and England may go to 
 Moscow to see their own fashions set off to 
 advantage. The drapery was disposed chiefly 
 after the Grecian costume, and the hair worn 
 bound up round the head. The modes of dress 
 in London and Paris are generally blended 
 together by the ladies of Moscoiv, who select 
 from either that which may become them best ; 
 and, in justice to their charms, it must be 
 confessed no country in the world can boast of 
 superior beauty. When, in addition to their 
 personal attractions, it is considered, that the 
 most excessive extravagance is used to procure 
 whatever may contribute to their adornment 2 * * 5 ; 
 that a whole fortune is sometimes lavished 
 upon a single dress ; that they are assembled 
 in one of the finest rooms in the world, lighted 
 and decorated with matchless elegance and 
 splendour ; it may be supposed the effect has 
 never been surpassed. 
 
 In such an assembly, we had every reason 
 to suppose a couple of English travellers might 
 
 (2) It is related very generally, in the higher circles of the city, 
 that a Princess of Moscow, who had purchased a i trig to imitate the 
 
 colour of her own hair, confined her hair-dresser in a closet, fed him 
 
 always herself, and allowed him only to come out during her toilette, 
 in order that her false tresses might not be detected. 
 
 G 2 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 pass without notice. We had, moreover, a 
 particular reason for hoping this would be the 
 case; as, in obedience to a decree of the 
 Emperor Paul, we had collected our short hair 
 into a queue, which appeared most ridiculously 
 curtailed, sticking out, like any thing but that 
 which it was intended to represent, and most 
 remarkably contrasted with the long tails of the 
 Russians. Unfortunately, the case was other- 
 wise ; and a curiosity to see the two Englishmen 
 becoming general, to our great dismay we 
 found ourselves surrounded by a crowd of 
 persons, some of whom thought proper to ask, 
 who cut our hair ? Such questions, it may be 
 conceived, did not add to the evening’s amuse- 
 ment ; but our astonishment was completed the 
 next day, in receiving the thanks and blessings 
 of a poor ragged barber, who had powdered us 
 at the inn, and whose fortune he assured us we 
 had made ; all the young nobles having sent for 
 him, to cut and dress their hair in the same 
 ridiculous manner 1 . 
 
 Such a trifling incident would not have been 
 mentioned, if it had not ultimately taken a 
 
 (l) A review of this work has appeared in America, professedly 
 written by a Russian : indeed, it bears strong internal evidence of 
 such an origin. Its author, speaking of this anecdote, confesses 
 “ that it has all the appearance of being rigorously true." The same 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 very serious turn ; for tire police-officers inter- 
 fering, the young men, who had thus docked 
 themselves, were apprehended in the public 
 walks, severely reprimanded, and compelled to 
 wear false hair; and we were obliged to use 
 the utmost circumspection, lest we should also 
 be apprehended, and perhaps treated with 
 more rigour. 
 
 The dances were called Quadrilles, Polonese, 
 and English. The Waltz, once their favourite, 
 had been prohibited. But whatever name they 
 gave to their dances, they were all dull, and 
 consisted merely in a sort of promenade. Neither 
 the men nor the women exhibited the slightest 
 degree of animation in the exercise, but seemed 
 to consider it as a sort of apology for not 
 sitting still. Every person wore a full dress ; 
 the men appearing either in uniform, or in 
 coats of very rich embroidery. 
 
 acknowledgment of his faith is made with regard to the pickpocket in 
 the Cathedral, stealing during his devotions : but he denies even the 
 possibility of another theft, mentioned in p. 92. It is for this writer 
 to explain why he should deny the least improbable story of the three ; 
 especially as there are many living witnesses of its truth. In stating 
 the time of our residence in Russia, with a degree of accuracy highly 
 characteristic of his countrymen, instead of calculating the period 
 from the day of our arrival, he dates it from that of our departure l 
 
6 
 
 CIIAP. V. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Surprising Talent of Imitation among the Russians 
 Remarkable Fraud practised by a Native Artist 
 Booksellers— State of Literature— Libraries of the 
 Nobles — Equipages — Costume of the Bourgeoisie — 
 Amusements of the People — Chapel of the Tverschaiu 
 — Miracles wrought there — Nature of the Imposture 
 Artifice of a Merchant — Assassination of an Archbishop 
 — Motive for the Worship of Pictures — Resemblance 
 between the Russians and Neapolitans — Wives of the 
 Nobles — Conduct of their Husbands — Children ofOrlof 
 — Princess Menzicof— Retributive Spirit exercised by 
 the Emperor at the Funeral of his Mother . 
 
 CI ^ r ' In whatsoever country we seek for original 
 1 ' ,J o-enius. we must sjo to Russia for the talent of 
 
 Talent of O’ 0 
 
 imitation, imitation. This is the acme of Russian intellect ; 
 
the principle of all Russian attainments. The 
 Russians have nothing of their own ; but it is 
 not their fault if they have not every thing that 
 others invent. Their surprising powers of imi- 
 tation exceed all that has been hitherto known. 
 The meanest Russian slave is sometimes able 
 to accomplish the most intricate and the most 
 delicate works of mechanism; to copy, with 
 single hand, what has demanded the joint 
 labours of the best workmen in France or in 
 England. Although untutored, they are the 
 best actors in the world. A Russian gentleman, 
 who had never beheld an European theatre, 
 assisted during the representation of a play 
 in one of the remote eastern provinces, and his 
 performance was accidentally witnessed by 
 persons who were capable of estimating its 
 merit: they pronounced it to be superior to 
 the acting of any of our European stage-players. 
 In other examples of their imitative powers, 
 the author has witnessed something similar. 
 If they were instructed in the art of painting, 
 they would become the finest portrait painters 
 in the world. To the truth of this, we saw one 
 striking testimony: in a miniature portrait of 
 the Emperor, executed by a poor slave, who 
 had only once seen him, during the visit he 
 made to Moscow. For the resemblance and 
 the minuteness of the representation, it was 
 
88 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, indeed a surprising work. The effect produced 
 ■ was like that of beholding the original through 
 a diminishing lens. The Birmingham trinket- 
 manufactory, where imitations of precious 
 stones and of the precious metals are wrought 
 with so much cheapness, is surpassed in 
 Moscow ; because the workmanship is equally 
 good, and the things themselves are cheaper. 
 But the great source of wonder is in the manner 
 of their execution. At Birmingham, they result 
 from the labour of many persons ; in Moscow, 
 from the hands of an individual ; yet the dif- 
 ference between divided and undivided labour 
 in this branch of trade occasions none in the 
 price of the articles. In Moscow, imitations of 
 the Maltese and Venetian gold chains were 
 offered for sale, capable of deceiving any person, 
 unless he were himself a goldsmith. This is 
 not the case with regard to their cutlery ; 
 because here a multiplication of labour is more 
 requisite. They fail therefore in hardware; 
 not owing to any inability in imitating the 
 works they import, but because they cannot 
 afford to sell them for the same price. Where 
 a patent, as in the instance of Bramah's locks, has 
 kept up the price of an article in England beyond 
 the level it would otherwise find, the Russians 
 have imitated it with the greatest perfection; 
 and sold the copy at a lower rate than the 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 original, although equally valuable. This ex- chap. 
 
 traordinary talent for imitation has been also ■ — 
 
 manifested in the Fine Arts. A picture by Ttemarka- 
 Dietrici, in the style of Polemlerg, was borrowed 
 by one of the Russian nobility from his friend. 
 
 The owner of the picture had impressed his 
 seal upon the back of it, and had inscribed it 
 with verses and mottoes of his own composition. 
 
 Having so many marks, he deemed his picture 
 safe anywhere. But a copy so perfect was 
 finished, both as to the painting, and to all the 
 circumstances of colour in the canvas, and to 
 the seal, and to the inscriptions, that when put 
 into the original frame, and returned to its 
 owner, the fraud was not discovered. This 
 circumstance was afterwards made known by 
 the confession of the artist employed ; and there 
 are now residing in Petersburg and Moscoto 
 foreign artists' of the highest respectability 
 and talents who attest its truth. One of them, 
 Camporesi, assured us, that, walking in the 
 suburbs of Moscoiv, he entered a miserable hut 
 belonging to a cobler; where, at the farther 
 end of the dwelling, in a place designed to hold 
 pans and kettles, and to dress victuals, he 
 observed a ragged peasant at work. It was a 
 
 (1) Guarcngld of Petersburg, and Camporesi of Moscow , Italian 
 architects employed in the service of the Crown. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 painter in enamel, copying very beautiful pic- 
 tures. The same person, he added, might 
 have been found the next day drunk in a cellar, 
 or howling beneath the cudgel ot his task- 
 master. Under the present form of government 
 in Russia, it is not very probable that the Fine 
 Arts will ever flourish. A Russian is either a 
 slave, or he has received his freedom. In the 
 former instance, he works only when instigated 
 by the rod of his master, and is cudgelled as 
 often as his owner thinks proper. While em- 
 ployed in works of sculpture or painting, he 
 is frequently called off, to mend a chair or a 
 table, to drive nails into a wainscot, or to daub 
 the walls of the house. When evening falls, 
 as certainly falls a cudgel across his shoulders ; 
 which is not the way to educate artists. But 
 if he have received his freedom, the action of 
 the cudgel ceasing, all stimulus to labour ends: 
 lie has then no other instigation to work, than 
 the desire of being able to buy brandy, and to 
 become intoxicated : this he does whenever he 
 can procure the means, and there is soon a 
 period put to any further exertion of his talents. 
 
 The booksellers’ shops in Moscow are better 
 furnished than in Petersburg ; but they are very 
 rarely placed upon a ground-floor. The con- 
 venience of walking into a shop from the street, 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 91 
 
 without climbing a flight of stairs, is almost chap. 
 peculiar to England ; although there be some ■ - 
 exceptions, as in the Palais Royal at Paris, 
 and in a few houses at Vienna. The catalogue 
 of Russian authors in some of the shops, fills 
 an octavo volume of two hundred pages. 
 
 French, Italian, German, and English books, 
 would be as numerous here as in any other 
 city, were it not for the ravages of the public 
 censors, who prohibit the sale of books, from 
 their own ignorant misconception of their con- 
 tents. Sometimes a single volume, nay a single 
 page, of an author, is prohibited, and the rest 
 of the work, thus mangled, permitted to be 
 sold. There is hardly a single' modern work 
 which has not been subject to their correction. 
 
 The number of prohibited books is so great, 
 that the trade is ruined. Contraband publica- 
 tions are often smuggled; but the danger is 
 so imminent, that all respectable booksellers 
 leave the trade to persons, either more daring, 
 or who, from exercising other occupations, are 
 less liable to suspicion. 
 
 Yet there are circumstances arising from the of 
 state of public affairs in the two cities, which 
 give a superiority to the booksellers of Moscow. 
 
 In and near the city reside a vast number of 
 the Russian nobility. A foreigner might live 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 many years there, without ever hearing the 
 names of some of them ; whereas at Petersburg 
 a few only are found, who all belong to the 
 Court, and are therefore all known. The 
 nobles of Moscow have, many of them, formerly 
 figured in the presence of their sovereign, and 
 have been ordered to reside in this city ; or 
 they have passed their youth in foreign travel, 
 and have withdrawn to their seats in its 
 environs. Many of them have magnificent 
 libraries ; and, as the amusement of collecting, 
 rather than the pleasure of reading books, has 
 been the reason of their forming those sump- 
 tuous collections, the booksellers receive orders 
 to a very large amount'. When a Russian 
 nobleman reads, which is a very rare circum- 
 stance, it is commonly a novel; either some 
 licentious trash in the French language, or some 
 English romance translated into that language. 
 Of the latter, the ‘ Italian ’ of Mrs. Radcliffe 
 has been better done than any other ; because, 
 representing customs which are not absolutely 
 local, it admits of easier transition into any 
 other European tongue. But when any attempt 
 
 (l) These orders are sometimes given in the style related of Rtmshy 
 Kormkof, a serjeant in the Guards, who succeeded Zaritz in the 
 affections of Catherine the Secono. This man sent for a bookseller, 
 and said, “ Fit me up a handsome library: little boohs above, and great 
 ones below.” 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 93 
 
 is made to translate ‘ Tom Jones ,' ‘ The Vicar cnAV. 
 
 of Wakefield; or any of our inimitable original ■ — ' 
 
 pictures of English manners, the effect is ridi- 
 culous beyond description. Squire Western 
 becomes a French Philosopher, and Goldsmiths 
 Primrose a Fleur cle Lis. 
 
 Books of real literary reputation are not to Libraries^ 
 be obtained either in the shops of Petersburg or 
 of Moscow. Productions of other days, which 
 from their importance in science have become 
 rare, are never to be found. Costly and 
 frivolous volumes, sumptuously bound, and 
 gorgeously decorated, constitute the precious 
 part of a library, in Russian estimation. Gaudy 
 French, editions, of Fontenelle, of Marmontel, of 
 Italian sonneteers, with English folios of but- 
 terflies, shells, and flowers ; editions by Bas- 
 kerville, Bensley, and Bulmer, with hot-pressed 
 and wire-wove paper ; in short, the toys rather 
 than the instruments of science, attract the 
 notice of all the Russian amateurs. A mag- 
 nificent library in Russia will be found to con- 
 tain very little of useful literature. In vain, 
 among their stately collections, smelling like 
 a tannery of the leather which bears their name, 
 may we seek for classic authors, historians, 
 lawgivers, and poets. A copy of the Encyclo- 
 pedia, indeed, placed more for ostentation than 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 94 
 
 chap, for use, may perhaps, in a solitary instance or 
 
 . v ' , two, greet the eye ; but this will be found to 
 be the only estimable work throughout their 
 gilded shelves'. 
 
 Equipages. After London and Constantinople, Moscow is 
 doubtless the most remarkable city in Europe. 
 A stranger, passing rapidly through the streets, 
 might pronounce it to be dull, dirty, and unin- 
 teresting ; while another, having resided there, 
 would affirm, that it had rather the character 
 of a great commercial and wealthy metropolis. 
 If the grandeur and the riches of its inhabitants 
 be estimated by the splendour of their equi- 
 pages, and the number of horses attached to 
 each, Moscow would surpass all the cities of 
 the earth. There is hardly an individual above 
 the rank of a plebeian who would be seen 
 without four horses to his carriage : the gene- 
 rality have six. But the manner in which this 
 pomp is displayed presents a pei Sect burlesque 
 upon stateliness. A couple of ragged boys are 
 placed as postillions, before a coachman, in 
 such sheep-skins as are worn by peasants in 
 the woods: behind the carriage are stationed 
 
 (1) The library of Count BotterVme, hereafter noticed, deserved a 
 different character; but perhaps, before the author can make the ex- 
 ception, the valuable Collection of this nobleman has been dispersed. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 a groupe of lackeys, more tawdry, but not ciiap. 
 
 less ludicrous, than their drivers. To give v — 
 
 greater effect to all this, the traces of the 
 harness are so long, that it requires considerable 
 management to preserve the horses from being 
 entangled, whenever they turn the corner of 
 a street, or when they halt. Notwithstanding 
 this, no stranger, however he may deride its 
 absurdity, will venture to visit the nobles, if 
 he wish for their notice, without four horses 
 to liis chariot, a ragged coachman and postillion, 
 and a parade of equipage that must excite his 
 laughter in proportion as it insures their coun- 
 tenance and approbation. 
 
 Wives of tradesmen, during the season Costume, 
 of their festivals, are seen driving about 
 in droskies, with riches upon their persons suf- 
 ficient to purchase a peerage. Caps made of 
 matted work of pearls, with Turkish and Persian 
 shawls, and diamond ear-rings, are often exhi- 
 bited ; preserving, at the same time, the national 
 costume, however costly the apparel. This 
 costume is remarkably graceful when the shawl 
 is worn, and as much otherwise when it is not. 
 
 The shawl covers the head, and falls in thin 
 folds over the shoulders, reaching almost to the 
 feet. The celebrated Pallas gave to us a 
 drawing representing the wife of a Russian 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 tradesman, with an old duenna, or nurse, who 
 is found in almost every family. It was 
 executed by his artist, Geisler. With that good 
 humour which always characterized him, finding 
 the women unwilling to have their figures deli- 
 neated, he caused Mrs. Pallas to assume the 
 dress of the young wife, and he put on his own 
 person the habit of the duenna-, thus affording 
 a scenic representation, in which the persons 
 of the drama, although strongly caricatured, 
 are, the Professor and his Wife. 
 
 The amusements of the people are those of 
 children ; that is to say, of English children ; 
 for in Paris and Naples the author has witnessed 
 similar amusements; grave senators and states- 
 men being sometimes seen mounted upon 
 wooden horses, round-abouts, and ups-and-doivns, 
 with the lower order of inhabitants. It will 
 be said, the English are a grave people; but 
 a better reason may perhaps be assigned for 
 the want of such infantine sports at our wakes 
 and fairs. Certainly there is no part of our 
 island where men of forty and fifty years of 
 age would be seen riding on a wooden horse, 
 or chuckling in a vaulting-chair. Three Rus- 
 sians, at the same time, will squeeze themselves 
 into one of those chairs, and, as they are 
 whirled round, scream for joy, like infants 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 97 
 
 tossed in the nurse’s arms. Some years ago, chap. 
 
 the present King of the Two Sicilies was accus- ' . — 
 
 tomed to join his principal courtiers in a similar 
 amusement. 
 
 In the Gate of the Resurrection, at the eastern Chapel of 
 extremity of the Tverschaia, one of the principal 
 streets in Moscow, there is a small open 
 sanctuary, before which, at all hours of the 
 day, people are assembled, crossing and pro 1 
 strating themselves. We had the curiosity to 
 penetrate the host of devotees, and to enter 
 this little temple. An old man with a long 
 beard was there selling candles to the numerous 
 visitants, who, immediately after buying the 
 candles, placed them before a picture of the 
 Virgin with the Bleeding Cheek. The place was 
 filled with a variety of pictures of Saints and 
 Martyrs: but there were two of the Virgin, 
 larger than the rest, facing the street : one of 
 them is said to have been brought hither by 
 an angel; which causes the extraordinary devo- 
 tion paid to this picture in particular ; although 
 there be many such paintings in other parts of 
 Moscow, having the same reputation of a mira- 
 culous importation. The particular picture to 
 which reference is now made, was framed in 
 silver, set round with gems, true or false, of 
 
 VOL. I. H 
 
98 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 V. 
 
 ' * 
 
 various magnitude. It has great celebrity, 
 from the numberless miracles it is supposed 
 to have wrought, in healing the sick, restoring 
 sight to the blind, and showering down favours 
 of all kinds upon its worshippers. Now, sup- 
 posing only four persons to present themselves 
 every minute before this picture, (and some- 
 times fifty in the same instant may be observed 
 opposite the shrine,) no less a number than ten 
 thousand eight hundred and eighty persons will 
 be found to visit it in the short space of twelve 
 hours. It would be indeed a miracle, if, out 
 of this number, one or two did not occasionally 
 experience relief, either from sickness of body, 
 or from sorrow, or in consequence of any other 
 wished-for change : and, whenever this happens, 
 if only once in thirty days, (which would be 
 to reckon one only but of eighty-six thousand 
 four hundred persons, not counting the nightly 
 visitants,) the noise of it is circulated far and 
 wide ; the story itself exaggerated ; and the 
 throng of votaries thereby increased. Upon 
 such ground an ideot might raise as vast a 
 superstructure of ignorance and credulity as 
 any even Russia itself has witnessed. The 
 picture of a Saint found accidentally in the 
 street; human bones dug up in a forest; a 
 dream; some casual and rude representation 
 of a cross ; a lusus naturce (as in the colours 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 99 
 
 of a pied horse, or the veins in a piece of flint c “ AP - 
 or marble); in short, whatsoever represents, or ' — , — ' 
 is supposed to resemble, any thing belonging 
 to their prodigious catalogue of superstitious 
 objects, might occasion a resort of devo- 
 tees, give rise to a church, or to a market- 
 place for wax-chandlers, painters, and silver- 
 smiths, as profitable as the shrine of Diana at 
 Ephesus . 
 
 A circumstance so likely has frequently Artificer* 
 happened. A merchant of Moscow, more re- 
 nowned for speculation than lor piety, caused 
 a coffin to be dug up, some years ago, with the 
 supposed body of a Saint, in the interior ol the 
 empire, eastward of the city. The throng to 
 this coffin, from all parts, became immense ; 
 the blind were, as usual, healed; the lame left 
 their crutches suspended as trophies of mira- 
 culous cures ; and, in a short time, all the other 
 churches were deserted, in consequence of the 
 reputation of the newly-discovered Saint. It 
 was moreover said, that his saintship was very 
 passionate; that he was angry at being dis- 
 turbed; and insisted upon having a church 
 built over him, to ensure his future repose. A 
 church was therefore erected; when news ol 
 the whole affair reaching the ears ot the late 
 Empress Catherine, she ordered the building to 
 
 h 2 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 too 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 V. 
 
 ' v ' 
 
 Assassina- 
 tipn of an 
 Arch- 
 bishop. 
 
 be shut. The Emperor Paul, from a determi- 
 nation to undo every thing that his mother had 
 done, and to do (as much as possible) that 
 which she would not have done, caused it to 
 be again opened ; although it were well known 
 in Russia, that the merchant, after the church 
 had been shut by the Empress’s order, frequently 
 avowed, and laughed at, the fraud he had com- 
 mitted 1 2 . Much after the same manner, during 
 the plague in Moscoiu, about thirty years ago, 
 a picture was placed in one of the streets of 
 the city, to which the people eagerly thronged, 
 upon the earliest intelligence of its arrival. 
 The archbishop Ambrose, finding that the danger 
 of spreading infection increased as the people 
 crowded to this picture, ordered it to be re- 
 moved, and concealed in a church , but the 
 doors of the church were forced open by the 
 populace; and the venerable prelate, being 
 dragged from the convent of Donskoy, was in- 
 humanly put to death. The late Empress, in 
 her correspondence with Voltaire, gave an ac- 
 count of this event; recommending it to him 
 as a supplement to the article Fanaticism, in the 
 French Encyclopedia 4 . 
 
 (1) Paul published an ukase, in the Imperial Gazette of Peters- 
 burg, upon the 17th of December 17.98, canonizing the new Saint. 
 
 (2) Lcttres de l*Imp£r« de Russie, &c. Lett. 94. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 101 
 
 All that has been said or written of Roman- CH V AP - 
 Catholic bigotry affords but a feeble idea of v — ■ 
 the superstition of the Greek Church. It is 
 certainly the greatest reproach to human reason, 
 the severest satire upon universal piety, that 
 has yet disgraced the history of mankind. The 
 wild, untutored savage of South America, who 
 prostrates himself before the Sun, and pays 
 his adoration to that which he believes to be 
 the source of life and light, exercises more 
 rational devotion than the Russian, who is all 
 day crossing himself before his Bogh, and 
 sticking farthing candles near a picture of 
 St. Alexander Nevsky. But in the adoration Morivefor 
 paid bv this people to their Saints and Virgins 9 ship of 
 
 x J v i , . - pictures. 
 
 we may discern strong traces of their national 
 character. The homage they offer to a court 
 parasite, or to a picture, is founded upon the 
 same principle ; and in all their views, political 
 or religious, they are actuated by similar mo- 
 tives. A Deity, and a despot, by the nature ol 
 the one, and the policy of the other, are too 
 far removed from their view to admit ol any 
 immediate applications. All their petitions, 
 therefore, instead of being addressed at once 
 either to a spiritual or to a temporal throne, are 
 directed to the one or to the other by channels 
 falling more immediately under observation. 
 
 Thus we find favouritism to be the leading feature 
 
102 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, of the Russian government, and the adoration 
 . ; of Saints the whole of their religion. The 
 
 Sovereign is disregarded in the obeisance offered 
 to his parasites ; and the Creator entirely for- 
 gotten in the idolatrous worship of his creatures. 
 
 Rcsem- As we lived in some degree of intimacy with 
 tween the many of the Russian nobility, their manners and 
 and Nea. opinions could not escape our notice. Ot all 
 pMtom. the Eur0 peans, they bear the greatest resem- 
 blance to the Neapolitans. The nobles of 
 Naples and Palermo are exactly like those of 
 Moscoiv ; and even the peasants of the two 
 countries have a certain degree of resemblance 
 This similitude may arise from a similarity of 
 government, — vicious and despotic, ignorant 
 and superstitious. The same character prevails 
 in their national dances, and in their mode of 
 dress. The barina differs little from the taran- 
 tula ; and the female peasants of the Campagna 
 Felice dress like the women near Moscow, — with 
 the same sort of shoes ; the same kind of head- 
 dress; the same embroidered suits; in short, 
 the same load of finery. May not this lie thus 
 explained : the costume of Magna Greecia came 
 from the Archipelago ; and the art of dress was 
 introduced into Russia from Constantinople. It 
 has been before mentioned, that, in then spoi ts, 
 the Russians and the Neapolitans are alike. In 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 103 
 
 the class of the nobles, the women are far supe- 
 rior to the men; they are mild, affectionate, 
 often well-informed, beautiful, and highly ac- 
 complished : the men are destitute of every 
 qualification to render them, in the eyes of 
 their female companions, objects of love or of 
 esteem. It is not therefore wonderful, that 
 ladies of rank in Moscow have the character of 
 not being strict in their fidelity to their hus- 
 bands ; especially if the profligate example so 
 lately offered them in their Empress Catherine 
 be taken into consideration. Indeed, it is dif- 
 ficult to conceive how the wives of the gene- 
 rality of the nobles in Moscow can entertain any 
 respect for their husbands 1 . Married, without 
 passion, by the policy and self-love of their 
 parents, frequently to men they never saw 
 until the time of wedlock ; subjected to tyrants, 
 who neither afford good examples to their 
 children, nor any source of social enjoyment 
 to themselves; who are superannuated before 
 the age of thirty; diseased, dirty, and over- 
 whelmed with debt; the women of Moscow 
 regard the matrimonial life as superior indeed 
 to that of imprisonment in a convent, but as 
 a state of slavery, from which they look towards 
 
 (1) “ Mulierum conditio miserrima est ; neque quicquam authori- 
 tatis in tcdibus usurpant : a mantis bene verberatie,” &c. Guagnin. 
 Descript. Moscovitz, p. 65. L, But. 1630. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 V. 
 
 ' * ' 
 
 Wives of 
 the Noble}. 
 
1.04 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap. a joyful deliverance, in the death of their hus- 
 j bands. Every one acquainted with the real 
 history of the Empress Catherine, and with her 
 manner of bursting the connubial bonds, will 
 find in it a picture of the state of female 
 society throughout the empire. The wives of 
 the nobles, it is true, do not assassinate their 
 husbands; but the ties of wedlock are alto- 
 gether disregarded. This representation, of 
 course, regards the general state of the commu- 
 nity. The Reader shall not be offended, nor 
 the feelings of individuals wounded, by any 
 detail of private anecdotes for public purposes ; 
 neither is it necessary to relate the few ex- 
 ceptions which may be found to the preceding 
 statement: whatsoever credit is given to it in 
 England,, it will not be contradicted in Russia. 
 
 A Russian nobleman will sell any thing he 
 possesses, from his wife to his lap-dog ; from 
 the decorations of his palace, to the ornaments 
 of his person ; any thing to obtain money ; any 
 thing for the pleasure of squandering it away. 
 Visiting a trading mineralogist, we were sur- 
 prised to see glass-cases filled with court- 
 dresses ; and still more so on being told that 
 these were dresses of the nobility ; sent to be 
 exposed for sale, as often as any of them 
 wanted money. Their plan is, to order goods 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 105 
 
 to any amount for which they can procure chap. 
 
 credit ; to pay for nothing ; and to sell what ’ * 
 
 they have ordered, as soon as they receive it. 
 
 We should call such conduct, in England, 
 swindling. In Moscow it bears another name , 
 it is there called Russian magnificence. 
 
 The. children of those who murdered Peter 
 the Third resided in Moscow when we were 
 there : one ot them married the daughter of 
 the Governor. The Princess Menzikof, grand- 
 daughter of the favourite of Peter the Great, 
 was also there : we were often in her company , 
 and too much amused by her cheerful dispo- 
 sition, to report the style of conversation she 
 indulges everywhere. However, that which is 
 a proverb in Russia may at the least bear an 
 allusion in England. When the late Empress 
 died, her son, and successor, caused the bod\ 
 of his father to be taken up, and laid in state, 
 by the coffin of his mother, in the palace- at 
 Petersburg. It is said there was only one per- 
 son, an archbishop, who knew where they had 
 buried him; as he was interred without mo- 
 nument or inscription, in the church of the 
 monastery of St. Alexander Nevsky. Orlof, his 
 murderer, was then at Moscow. An order from 
 the Emperor brought him to Petersburg ; and 
 when the bodies were removed to the church 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 10G 
 
 chap. 0 f St. Peter and Si. Paul in the citadel 1 , he was 
 , V ' , compelled to walk in the procession from the 
 palace to the church, following the body ot the 
 person he had murdered so long before. It 
 was then the people of Petersburg beheld an 
 interesting scene of retribution. One of them, 
 who was an eye-witness, described the whole 
 of it to us. The bodies were drawn upon low 
 chariots, by horses. Immediately after the coffin 
 of Peter the Third, and close to it, walked, 
 with slow and faltering steps, his assassin, 
 Orlof- having his eyes fixed on the ground, his 
 hands folded, and his face pale as death. Next 
 to Orlof walked the Emperor ; certainly mani- 
 festing, by this sublime although mysterious 
 sacrifice to the manes of his father, an action 
 worthy of a greater character. The ceremony 
 ended, Orlof received an order to quit the em- 
 pire ; and lately was travelling in the South of 
 Europe. 
 
 (1) The place where state-prisoners are kept. 
 
CHAP. VI. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 State of Exiles in Siberia — Tololsky — Generous Conduet 
 of a Citizen — Prince turned Pawnbroker — Picture 
 Dealers— State of Medicine— Manners of the People- 
 Opinions entertained of the English Relative Condi- 
 tion of Slaves and their Lords — Noble Behaviour of 
 Count Golovkin’s Peasants — Servants of the Nobility 
 Theft committed by a Party of the Nobles — Convent oj 
 the New Jerusalem — New Prohibitions — Public Censors 
 
 Convent of the Trinity — Church of St. Basil 
 
 Ivan Basilovich — Tubervile’s Letters. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 In England, we hear of persons being sent to v L 
 Siberia, as a most severe punishment ; and we state of 
 entertain very erroneous notions concerning the Siberia . 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 108 
 
 CHAP, state of exiles in that country. To a Russian 
 . j nobleman the sentence of exile can hardly imply 
 punishment. The consequence of their journey 
 is very often an amelioration of their under- 
 standing and of their hearts. They have no 
 particular attachment to their country ; none of 
 that maladie du pays, which sickens the soul of 
 an Englishman in banishment. They are bound 
 by no strong ties of affection to their families ; 
 neither have they any friendship worth pre- 
 Tobohky. serving. Tobolshy, from the number and the 
 rank of the exiled, is become a large and popu- 
 lous city, full of shops, and containing theatres, 
 besides other places of public amusement. 
 Its inhabitants, above two thousand versts from 
 Moscow, have booksellers, masquerades, I rench 
 hotels, and French wines, with the porter and 
 beer of England. Those who have resided 
 there, either as officers on duty, as travellers, 
 or as exiles, give the highest accounts of its 
 gaiety and population. An officer of consi- 
 derable rank in the Russian service told us, he 
 would rather have the half of his pay and live 
 at Tobolshy, than the whole of it in residence 
 at Petersburg. Many, who have been ordered 
 home, have wished and sought to return thither. 
 This is no subject of wonder. Tobolshy is 
 admirably adapted to the Russian taste. Ac- 
 cording to Gmelin, it is a very temple of 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 109 
 
 Bacchus and Indolence. Provisions were so VI _ * 
 cheap when he was there, in the middle of the ' * ' 
 
 last century, that a person might maintain 
 himself for ten roubles a year ; not two pounds 
 of our money. His account of the Easter fes- 
 tival 1 proves that there was not much difference 
 between the state of society in Tobolshy and in 
 Moscow at that time ; and there is much less at 
 present. 
 
 A circumstance occurred during our abode 
 in Moscow, attended by a trait of so much gene- - citizen, 
 rosity in a Russian, that it is a duty to relate 
 it. On Wednesday the seventh of May, the 
 Sub-Governor received an order for his exile to 
 Siberia. No reason whatever was assigned for 
 the displeasure of the Emperor ; no offence w as 
 alleged. The whole city flocked to take leave 
 of him, for he was much beloved : and dan* 
 gerous as such a testimony of affection might 
 
 (1) “ Les gens les plus considerables sc rendoient visites, et se don- 
 noient dcs divertissemens. Quant au people, 11 dtolt fou '• “ 
 
 n’£toit jour et nuit que promenades, cris, tumultes, batteries, 
 dtoit difficile (Taller dans les rues, taut ily avoit d’hommes, de femmes, 
 de bites, et de tratneaux.” Voyage de SMrie, tradnit par Keraho, 
 
 tom. I. p. 53. , 
 
 “ On passe gaiement les files de Piques it reytvoir et fa.re des 
 risites. Le peuple s’mnusa it sa maniire ; ce dout il s’occupa e 
 plus fut le commerce das filles publiques, qui nc sont pas rare* it 
 Tobolsk. Je n’avois vft uulle part tant de gens sans nez que j en vu 
 
 ici.” Ibid. p. 67. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 110 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VI. 
 
 1 — * — ' 
 
 Prince 
 
 turned 
 
 Pawn- 
 
 broker. 
 
 then prove, the inhabitants crowded to his 
 house, considering him as a man sacrificed to 
 the caprice of a tyrant. Among others, came 
 an humble citizen, and demanded admission. 
 It was granted. “ You are going to leave us, 
 said he, “ and may not have time to settle your ^ 
 affairs. Do you not want money ? I come as 
 your banker.” “ I have need of some,” said 
 the Governor, “ but it is much more than you 
 can furnish.” “ How much ?” “ Twenty-five 
 
 thousand roubles!” The honest fellow with- 
 drew ; and speedily returning with notes to the 
 amount of the sum specified, placed them upon 
 the table, carefully counting them over ; then 
 made his bow, and retired. 
 
 An Italian architect, of the name of Camporesi, 
 procured admission for us at the house of 
 Prince Trubetzkoy, a dealer in minerals, pic- 
 tures, hosiery, hats, cutlery, antiquities; in 
 short, all the furniture of shops and of museums. 
 Having squandered away his fortune, this man 
 gained a livelihood by selling, for himself and 
 for others, whatsoever came in his way. His 
 house, like a pawnbroker’s shop, exhibited one 
 general magazine, occupying several rooms. A 
 Prince presiding over this mart, and practising 
 all the artifices of the meanest tradesman, was 
 a spectacle perfectly novel. Any thing might 
 
MOSCOW. I 11 
 
 be bought of his Excellency, from a pair of chap. 
 
 bellows to a picture by Claude Lorraine. In . ' 
 
 the same room were handkerchiefs, antique 
 vases, stockings, artificial flowers, fans, Co- 
 logne-water, soap, pomatum, prints, paintings, 
 books, guns, pistols, minerals, jewellery, har- 
 ness, saddles, bridles, pipes, second-hand 
 clothes, swords, stuffed-birds, bronzes, buckles, 
 buttons, snuff-boxes, wigs, watches, boots and 
 shoes. “ My house,” said he, as we entered, 
 
 “ and all it contains, is at your service, or any 
 one’s else, who will buy it! I will sell you the 
 house for a single rouble, provided you will pay 
 me also a rouble for each article of its furniture. 
 
 While we bargained with his Excellency, Prince 
 L. sent a note, which he read aloud. It was to 
 borrow money. “ Here’s a man,” said Prince 
 Trubetzkoy, “ with a million of roubles in his 
 drawing-room, sends to me for forty-five, to pay 
 the expenses of a journey to his country seat ! 
 
 You see how we go on in Russia. ’ 
 
 The number of pictures in Moscow is really 
 astonishing. There are four or five eminent 
 dealers, who have large collections. The 
 palaces of the nobles are many of them filled, 
 and there is not one of their owners unwilling 
 to sell any picture he may possess. It seems 
 as if all Europe had been ransacked to supply 
 
112 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 cuap. such collections. At first view, a room adorned 
 X , by them has an imposing and very splendid 
 appearance ; but, upon a nearer approach, the 
 charm vanishes : they are almost all copies, and 
 the major part of them were brought from 
 Vienna. But the Russians themselves are so 
 ingenious in the art ol imitation, that a nobleman 
 of skill and judgment in painting has been 
 known to purchase, of a dealer, copies made a 
 few days before by one of his own slaves, who 
 went from his easel to his more usual daily 
 occupation of blacking shoes, and afterwards 
 carried to the brandy-shop the wages of his 
 ingenuity. As the nobles have rarely any 
 money at command, their traffic in the Fine 
 Arts, as in other things, is carried on by 
 exchange. This sort of barter is that in which 
 they take the greatest delight. They purchase 
 a picture for a carriage, or for an embroidered 
 suit of clothes, just as they pay their physician 
 with a snuff-box. In every pursuit the same 
 infantine disposition is displayed; and, like 
 children, they become tired of their toys almost 
 in the moment they have acquired them. In 
 their choice of pictures, they are pleased only 
 with gay and splendid colouring, highly finished, 
 in gaudy frames ; “ quelque chose cTec/atant ! ’ to 
 use an expression constantly in their mouths. 
 The works of Van der JVerf, Watteau, Jordaens , 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 113 
 
 Berchem, and Gerhard Douw, bear the highest ( ' R 
 prices; but if productions by any of the s — * — 
 Bolognese masters be shewn to them, they are 
 rejected. Nothing of the sombre cast, however 
 sublime, has any value in their estimation. 
 
 The works of the Caracci, of Domenichino, or 
 even of Michael Angelo, would not meet with 
 admirers. A beautiful head by Corregio , not 
 many years ago possessed by . an artist in 
 London, in the course of those adventures to 
 which fine pictures are liable, fell into the hands 
 of a Russian priest. He kept it during a short 
 time, because he had been told it was a cele- 
 brated work ; but ultimately exchanged it for 
 some wretched copies, with an Italian miniature- 
 painter. “ It had too much shade,” he said, 
 
 “ and the lights were too pale ; it had the air 
 altogether of a head from the guillotine .” The 
 method of paying their physicians by trinkets, 
 before mentioned, might seem an inconvenience 
 to the faculty ; but it is not so. Dr. Rogerson 
 at Petersburg, as we were informed, regularly 
 received his snuff-box, and as regularly carried 
 it to a jeweller for sale. The jeweller sold it 
 agaimto the first nobleman who wanted a fee 
 for his physician, so that the doctor obtained 
 his box again ; and at last the matter became 
 so well understood between the jeweller and 
 the physician, that it was considered by both 
 vol. r. 
 
 i 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 114 
 
 CHAR 
 
 VI. 
 
 State of 
 Medicine. 
 
 parties as a sort of bank-note, and no words 
 were necessary in transacting the sale of it. 
 
 Having mentioned the name of this respectable 
 physician, it may be well to say something of 
 the state of medicine in the country. Tire 
 business of an accoucheur is always practised by 
 women. The Emperor ordered all the mid- 
 wives to undergo examination, before a board 
 of physicians, a few days before we left Peters- 
 burg. In the regulation concerning apothecaries, 
 however well intended, the same wisdom was 
 not shewn : it is a reproach to the country. 
 If a stranger arrive, in immediate want of an 
 emetic' or of any trifling drug, he cannot obtain 
 it without the written order of some physician. 
 If this take place in the night, he may die 
 before the morning ; for the physician, although 
 sent for, certainly would not attend. In Peters- 
 burg, the fee of an eminent physician is twenty- 
 five roubles ; in Moscow, only one or two. 
 Persons calling themselves English physicians are 
 found in almost every town upon the continent. 
 Sometimes they have served in apothecaries' 
 shops in London or in Edinburgh ; but generally 
 
 (l) A remedy almost infallible against those dangerous fevers which 
 are the consequence of passing over unwholesome marshes in hot 
 countries, if taken within twenty-four hours. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 115 
 
 they are Scotch apothecaries, who are men of t T ^ R 
 
 professional skill, and of acknowledged supe- * — 
 
 riority. In some places abroad the practitioners 
 are really natives of England : but when this 
 happens to be the case, the traveller is cau- 
 tioned to shun them, however celebrated they 
 may be, as he values his existence. With few 
 exceptions, there are no instances of men of ability 
 among expatriated English physicians ; neither 
 would such men leave their country, to settle 
 among foreigners, unless compelled by circum- 
 stances of misconduct at home. Those Eng- 
 lishmen upon the continent who bear the name of 
 physicians will generally be found, upon inquiry, 
 to have exercised no such profession in their own 
 country ; but to have lived either as servants in 
 the shops of apothecaries, of chemists, and of 
 druggists, or to have practised as veterinary 
 surgeons, farriers, or itinerant empirics. 
 
 The Russian nobility are passionately fond of Manners 
 travelling ; and, under the circumstances of the People. 
 Emperor Paul’s administration, this passion 
 increased with the difficulty of its gratification. 
 
 Some of them entertain extravagant notions of 
 the wealth and happiness of Englishmen ; and 
 they have good reason so to do, since every 
 thing they possess that is either useful or in 
 any degree estimable comes to them from 
 
 1 1 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 England. Books, maps, prints, furniture, 
 clothing, hardware of all kinds, horses, carriages, 
 hats, leather, medicine, almost every article of 
 convenience, comfort, or luxury, must be de- 
 rived from England, or it is considered as of no 
 value. Some of the nobles are much richer 
 than the richest of our English peers; and a 
 vast number, as may be supposed, are very 
 poor. To this poverty, and to those richer, 
 are joined characteristics in which the Russian 
 peasant and the Russian prince are the same : 
 they are all equally barbarous. Visit a Rus- 
 sian, of whatsoeyer rank, at his country-seat 
 and you will find him lounging about, with his 
 collar open, uncombed, unwashed, unshaven, 
 half-naked, eating raw turnips, or drinking 
 quass. The raw turnip is handed about in 
 slices, in the first houses, upon a silver salver, 
 with brandy, as a whet before dinner. Their 
 hair is universally in a state not to be described ; 
 and their bodies are only divested of vermin 
 when they frequent the bath. Upon these 
 occasions, their shirts and pelisses are held 
 over a hot stove, and the heat occasions the 
 vermin to fall off 1 . It is a fact too notorious to 
 admit of dispute, that from the Emperor to the 
 
 (l) Suvorqf used to cleanse his shirt in this manner, during a cmn- 
 pnign ; stripping before the common soldiers, at the fires kindled in 
 their camps. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 meanest slave, throughout the vast empire of 
 all the Russias, including all its princes, nobles, 
 priests, and peasants, there exists not a single 
 individual in a thousand whose body is not thus 
 infested. The true manners of the people are 
 not seen in Petersburg, nor even in Moscow, by 
 entering only the houses of the nobility. Some 
 of this class, and generally persons to whom 
 letters of recommendation are obtained, have 
 travelled, and introduced refinements which 
 their friends and companions readily imitate. 
 But the genuine Russian rises at an early hour, 
 and breakfasts on a dram with black bread. 
 His dinner, at noon, consists of the coarsest and 
 most greasy food, the scorbutic effects of which 
 are supposed to be counteracted by pickled 
 cucumbers, by sour cabbage, by the juice of 
 his vaccinium, and by his nectar quass. Sleep, 
 rendering him unmindful of his abject servitude 
 and of his barbarous life, he particularly in- 
 dulges; sleeping always after eating, and going 
 early to his bed. The principal articles of diet are 
 the same everywhere — grease and brandy. The 
 horrors of a Russian kitchen are inconceivable ; 
 and there is scarcely a bed in the whole empire 
 that an English traveller would venture to 
 approach, if he were aware of its condition. 
 
 Among the nobles, the race is not yet extinct 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 of those servile beings who, at the pleasure of 
 the Tsar, were sent to be whipped like so many 
 dogs. The short liberty they enjoyed in the 
 reign of Catherine did not suffice to elevate 
 their minds from the depravity always incident 
 to a state of slavery. Under Paul, they again 
 experienced indignities similar to those which 
 had been offered to their forefathers. Potemkin, 
 one of the meanest and the most profligate of 
 men, frequently taught them to remember what 
 their condition was originally, by inflicting 
 blows upon any prince or nobleman with whom 
 he chanced to be offended : and the Emperor 
 Paul ventured to chastise the nobles who were 
 his officers'. Under such government, if we 
 find them servile, oppressive, cowardly, and 
 tyrannical, it is no more than may be expected, 
 from their mode of education, and the disci- 
 pline they undergo. They will naturally 
 crouch in the dust before an emperor, or 
 before one of those wretched creatures called 
 favourites, and will trample their inferiors be- 
 neath their feet 1 2 . 
 
 (1) See Note 1. in |). 47- 
 
 (2) “ Servituti gens nata, ad omue libertatis vestigium ferox est ; 
 placida si prematur. Ncque abnuunt jugum. Ultro fatentur Principi 
 se servire ; illi in suas opes, in corpora, vitamque jus esse. Sor- 
 didioris reverentia? humilitas Turcis non est in suorum Ottomanorum 
 sceptrum/* Bar claii Descript. Moscovue , p. 74. L. Bat. 1630. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 119 
 
 They consider the English as a mercenary < 
 people ; and generally hate them, because they ' — » — ' 
 fear them ; or court them, it they stand in need entertained 
 of their support. One of their princes thought 
 proper to declare in public, at his own table, 
 where we had been invited to dine, and were 
 of course under the protection enjoined by the 
 laws of hospitality, that “ in England there is 
 not an individual, patriot, or placeman, who is not 
 saleable to the highest bidder .” He instanced 
 Willies, Gibbon, and Burke, with many others ; 
 adding, “ English slavery is less justifiable than 
 Russian. One is selfishness ; the other, submission 
 to the laws." 
 
 It is very true, that the system of slavery in Relative^ 
 
 Russia, like many other evils, may be some- of staves 
 
 J 0,11 1 an< * * eir 
 times productive of good. If the nobleman be Lords. 
 
 benevolent, his slaves are happy ; for in that 
 case they are fed, clothed, and lodged. In 
 sickness they are carefully attended, and in 
 old age they have an asylum. In case of acci- 
 dents from fire if a whole village be burned, 
 the nobleman must supply wood to rebuild it. 
 
 But when, as it generally happens, the pro- 
 prietor is a man without feeling or principle, 
 their situation is indeed wretched. In such 
 instances, the peasants often take the law into 
 their own hands, and assassinate their lords. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 To prevent this, the latter live in cities, remote 
 from their own people, and altogether unmindful 
 of all that concerns their slaves, except the 
 tribute the latter are to pay. Many of the 
 Russian nobles dare not venture near to their 
 own villages, through fear of the vengeance 
 they have well merited by their crimes. In 
 this sad survey, it is soothing to point out 
 any worthy object, whereon the attention, wea- 
 ried by a uniform view of depravity, may for 
 a few short moments repose. Some noble 
 traits have presented themselves among the 
 slaves. 
 
 Noble Be- The father of Count Golovkin was reduced to 
 Count Go- the necessity of selling a portion of his peasants. 
 Peasants, in consequence of debts contracted in the 
 service of the Crown. Upon this occasion, 
 deputies chosen among the slaves came to 
 Moscow, beseeching an audience of their lord. 
 One venerable man, the oldest of the number 
 advertised for sale, begged to know why they 
 were to be so dismissed. “ Because,” said the 
 Count, “ I am in want of money, and must 
 absolutely pay the debts I have contracted. ’ 
 “ How much?” exclaimed at once all the deputies. 
 “ About thirty thousand roubles," rejoined the 
 Count. “ God help us ! Do not sell us ; we will 
 bring the money.” 
 
 120 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VI. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 121 
 
 Peter the Third was a greater friend to the CI ™r. 
 Russian nobility , during three months, than all ' ■ ' ' 
 
 the sovereigns of Russia in the collected periods 
 of their power. While under the oppressive 
 and degrading discipline of Paul, they kneeled, 
 and kissed the rod. Peter liberated them from 
 slavery and from corporal punishment ; he per- 
 mitted them to sell their effects, and to settle 
 in other countries ; to serve, if they pleased, 
 under other sovereigns ; — in short, he gave them 
 all they most desired; and they assassinated 
 their benefactor, 
 
 The swarm of servants in their palaces has Servants <>f 
 been already noticed. A foreigner wonders how biiity. 
 this can be maintained. The fact is, if a noble- 
 man have fifty or five hundred servants, they 
 do not cost him a rouble. Their clothes, their 
 food, every article of their subsistence, are de- 
 rived from the poor oppressed peasants. Their 
 wages, if wages they can be called, rarely ex- 
 ceed in their value an English halfpenny a day'. 
 
 In the whole year, the total of their daily pit- 
 tance equals about five roubles, forty-seven 
 copeeks and a half: this, according to the state of 
 exchange at the time we were there, may be 
 estimated at twelve shillings and ninepence. 
 
 (l) About, a copeeh and a half. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 But small as this sum is, it might have been 
 omitted ; for it is never paid. Few among the 
 nobles deem it any disgrace to owe their ser- 
 vants so trivial a debt. There is, in fact, no 
 degree of meanness too base for the condescen- 
 sion of a Russian nobleman. To enumerate all 
 the instances of which we were eye-witnesses, 
 would only weary and disgust the Reader. 
 It will suffice that we end with one. 
 
 A hat had been stolen from our apartments. 
 The servants positively asserted, that some 
 young noblemen, who had been more lavish 
 of their friendship and company than we de- 
 sired, had gained access to the chambers in 
 our absence, and had carried off the hat, with 
 some other moveables even of less value. The 
 fact was inconceivable, and we gave no credit 
 to it. A few days after, being upon an excur- 
 sion to the Convent of the New Jerusalem, forty- 
 five versts north of Moscow, some noblemen, 
 to whom our intention was made known, during 
 the preceding evening, at the Societe (le Noblesse, 
 overtook us on horseback. One of the party, 
 mounted upon an English racer, and habited 
 like a Newrmrhet jockey, rode towards the side 
 of our carriage ; but his horse being somewhat 
 unruly, he lost his seat, and a gust of wind car- 
 ried off his cap. The author s companion imme- 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 1 ‘23 
 
 diately descended, and ran to recover it for its CI ^ P - 
 owner ; but what was his astonishment, to per- v - ■»— J 
 ceive his own name, and the name of his hatter, 
 on the lining! It was no other than the iden- 
 tical hat which had been stolen by one of them 
 from our lodgings, although now metamor- 
 phosed into a cap ; and, under its altered shape, 
 it might not have been recognised, but for the 
 accident here mentioned 1 . 
 
 The love of mimicry, already mentioned as ^ on «nt °* 
 characteristic of the nation, has been carried Jerusalem. 
 to great excess in the Convent of the New Jeru- 
 salem : this building is not only an imitation 
 of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, 
 but it contains representations of all the relics 
 
 (1) The prohibition concerning: round hats lmd rendered this kind 
 of cap very fashionable in Moscow. A translated extract from the 
 writings of one whose pages confirm every characteristic of the Rus- 
 sians given in this work, will shew how faithful a picture the state- 
 ment of the fact above mentioned offers of the whole nation ; and 
 also to what extent the vice of stealing is carried in that country. 
 
 “ Next to drunkenness, the most prominent and common vice of 
 
 the Russians is theft From the first Minister to the General- 
 
 officer, from the lackey to the soldier, all are thieves, plunde-.ers, and 
 
 cheats It sometimes happens, that, in apartments at Court, to 
 
 which none but persons of quality and superior officers are admitted, 
 your pocket-book is carried of as f you were in a fair. The King of 
 Sweden, after the battle of July, 1790, invited a party of Russian 
 officers, who had been made prisoners, to dine with him. One of them 
 stole a plate : upon which the offended king ordered them all to be 
 distributed among the small towns, where they never again ate off 
 silver.” Memoirs of the Court of Petersburg. Lond. 1801. p. 1 70. 
 

 24 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, consecrated in that edifice. It was built exactly 
 - t — after the same model; and within it are ex- 
 hibited, The tomb of Christ, The stone rolled from 
 the sepulchre, The holes where the crosses of our 
 Saviour and the two thieves crucified with him were 
 placed, The prison where he was confined ; toge- 
 ther with all the other absurdities fabricated 
 by the Empress Helena and her ignorant priests 
 at Jerusalem. Finding, however, some diffe- 
 rence between the original building in the Holy 
 Land, and its model here, we asked the reason 
 of the alteration. The monks replied, “ Our 
 building is executed with more taste, because 
 it is more ornamental; and there are many 
 good judges who prefer ours to the original thus 
 most ignorantly implying, that the Church at 
 Jerusalem, so long an object of adoration, had 
 been so rather on account of its beauty, than 
 any thing contained in it. But nothing can 
 prove with more effect, to what an abject state 
 the human mind may be degraded, than that 
 the trumpery here, not having even the empty 
 title to reverence which relics may claim, 
 but confessedly imitations, should receive the 
 veneration and the worship paid to their ori- 
 ginals. A fat and filthy priest, pointing to some 
 holes in a pavement in the midst ol Russia, ex- 
 claims, “ Here stood the holy cross !" while boorish 
 devotees shed over the spot tears of piety, as 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 125 
 
 genuine as the drops that fall from the eyes of ( 
 pilgrims in the tabernacles at Jerusalem. Within v. — „ — 
 a cell, to which they have given the name of 
 The prison of Jesus Christ, is a wooden figure, 
 so ridiculously dressed, that it is impossible 
 to view it without laughter, dhis image is as 
 large as life ; and it is intended to represent the 
 Messiah in his confinement, having a veil of 
 black crape cast about the head, face, and 
 shoulders. The ‘ Virgin ivith Three Hands also 
 makes her appearance here : and an antient 
 picture is exhibited, which they say came from 
 Jerusalem : it is exactly in the taste of those 
 modern paintings now manufactured in Russia 
 for the churches and household gods, and it 
 was probably one of the original models of tire 
 axt. The dome of the building may be esteemed 
 among the finest works of architecture in the 
 country. It is lighted in a very pleasing 
 manner. The expense of its completion has 
 been rated at thirty-eight thousand roubles, or 
 we should have supposed it to have been much 
 greater. In the library of the Convent there 
 is nothing remarkable, excepting thirty pieces of 
 lead, shewn as the money paid to Judas Iscariot 
 for betraying Christ ; of course, copies of a 
 similar pretended relic at Jerusalem. The 
 dresses of the priests, covered with jewels, 
 are also displayed. One mitre alone is valued 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 126 
 
 chap. a t twenty-four thousand roubles. Some modem 
 
 VI. J 
 
 i > Manuscript Bibles, in the Russian language, 
 presented by the late Empress, are shewn, 
 sumptuously bound in covers of gold, studded 
 with enamelled paintings ; these are set round 
 with the finest Siberian emeralds, and with other 
 precious stone 
 
 The approach to this Convent is by a gentle 
 ascent, on a fine verdant plain. It is situate 
 in a pleasing country ; and the excursion to it 
 conducts a stranger through the most agreeable 
 of the environs of Moscow. It was once fortified : 
 a few pieces of artillery lay neglected near the 
 gate, beneath some trees. We were presented 
 to the Superior, the most greasy monk, without 
 exception, we ever beheld. He spoke to us in 
 Latin, and gave us the history of their great 
 patriarch Nicon, whose portrait we had seen in 
 the church, and who rose from the lowest 
 station to the high office he held. After his 
 marriage, a separation took place, out of pure 
 devotion, by the mutual consent of husband 
 and wife ; one becoming prior of a monastery, 
 and the other prioress of a convent. 
 
 When we returned to Moscow, we found the 
 inhabitants murmuring in consequence of new 
 prohibitions. An ukase had appeared, forbidding 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 12 ; 
 
 the importation of any kind of foreign lite- CI ^ P - 
 
 rature: under this head were included maps, , 1 
 
 music,- and whatsoever might be considered as 
 a vehicle of science. Some notion may be Public 
 formed of the administration of the public 
 censors, by a domiciliary visit the booksellers 
 received, during our residence in Moscow. The 
 shops were to undergo examination for prints 
 or plans of Riga. Every article of their pro- 
 perty was of course overhauled. Wherever 
 any thing appeared bearing the remotest refe- 
 rence to Riga, for whatever purpose calculated, 
 it was instantly condemned. If the word ‘ Riga 
 chanced to make its appearance in any book 
 however valuable, though but on a single page, 
 the leaf was torn out. In this manner they 
 destroyed, in one day, works of geography, 
 history, the arts, atlasses, dictionaries, voyages ; 
 ravaging, tearing, and blemishing, wheresoever 
 they came. 
 
 That the Russians have talents, no one will 
 deny ; but they dare not display them. Since 
 the death of Catherine, it seemed to be the 
 wretched policy of their Government to throw 
 every obstacle in the way of intellectual im- 
 provement. Genius became a curse tp its 
 possessor; wit, a passport to Siberia. Apathy, 
 stupidity, and ignorance, were blessings ; truth 
 
128 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VI. 
 
 ' 
 
 Convent of 
 the Trinity . 
 
 and science, qualifications for the knout. The 
 author of ‘ Mon Voyage a Moscou,' even during 
 the reign of Catherine, had atoned for the 
 brilliancy of his understanding in the wilder- 
 nesses of Tobolsky 1 . The number of Paul’s 
 prohibitions became so numerous, and many of 
 them were so trivial, that it was necessary to 
 carry about manuals of obedience, and assist 
 the memory by pocket-catalogues of forbidden 
 things. Some of these prohibitions excited 
 more laughter than fear. Pug-dogs, from the 
 Emperor’s resemblance to them, were pro- 
 hibited any other name than ‘ Mops.’ Ivory- 
 headed canes were on no account permitted, 
 being reserved solely for the use of the military. 
 These, and many other absurd regulations, ex- 
 posed foreigners daily to the insolence of the 
 police. Mr. Cripps was actually arrested for 
 not wearing flaps to his waistcoat: and the 
 author narrowly escaped punishment, for having 
 strings in his shoes. 
 
 The Convent of the Trinity, distant forty 
 miles from Moscow, is deemed particularly 
 worth seeing, on account of its immense riches. 
 
 (l) The unfortunate Radis chef. Me was made a victim of the politi- 
 cal Inquisition during; the reign of Catherine. Russian merchants 
 have given five-and-twenty roubles to read Radischef's book for a 
 single hour. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 129 
 
 Rather more than two miles farther is another ci ™p. 
 convent, less known, but more remarkable: it v 
 contains within its walls a Gothic church, erected 
 over a mount which is supposed to typify The 
 Mountain of the Ascension of Jesus Christ. At 
 the foot of the mount, and within it, is a small 
 chapel, containing figures, executed in wax, to 
 represent the resurrection of Lazarus. This ex- 
 traordinary work has been planned by Plato, 
 archbishop of Moscow, who resides there, and 
 under whose inspection the whole was executed. 
 
 The place is called Bethany. 
 
 But the most remarkable edifice, as it affords Church of 
 
 St. Basil. 
 
 a striking monument of national manners, is the 
 Church of St. Basil, near the Kremlin. It is a 
 complete specimen of the Tahtar taste in build- 
 ing; and was erected by Ivan Basilovich the 
 Second, in 1538. To add to the singularity of its 
 history, it was the workmanship of Italian archi- 
 tects. Its numerous and heavy cupolas, sur- 
 mounted by gilded crucifixes, exhibit a striking 
 contrast of colour and ornament. Pious indivi- 
 duals bequeath legacies towards the perpetual 
 gilding or painting of this or that dome, according 
 to their various fancies ; so that it is likely to 
 remain a splendid piece of patch-work for many 
 generations. In order to account for the origin 
 of this building, and for the Tahtarian style exhi- 
 
 VOL. i. 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, bited in the architecture, we must look back to 
 - the period of the Russian history when it was con- 
 structed. The stories we have hitherto received 
 of the monarch in whose piety or ostentation it 
 is said to have originated, are so contradictory, 
 that the subject itself merits a little investigation. 
 The more we inquire into the real history ol 
 Russia, and of the Russian Sovereigns, the more 
 we shall have reason to believe, that the country 
 and people have undergone little variation since 
 the foundation of the empire. Peter the Great 
 might cut off the beards of the nobles, and sub- 
 stitute European habits for Asiatic robes; but the 
 inward man is still the same'. A Russian of the 
 
 (l) They who knew Potemkin, or who will merely attend to what 
 is related of him in page 118, will Und that a picture of the manners 
 of Russian Nobles made in the seventeenth century will equally reprer 
 sent those of their Princes in the eighteenth. 
 
 “ Pendant le rf-pas les rots qui leur sortcnt dc la bouehe avec 
 l’odeur de l’eau-de-vie, de l’ail, dc l'oiguon, et des raves, .joints aux 
 vents du bas ventre, dont ils ne sont point scrupuleux, cxhalent une 
 corruption capable de faire cr6ver ceux qui sont auptos d’eux. 11s ne 
 portent point leurs mouehoirs dans leurs poehes, mais dans leurs 
 bonnets ; ct comme ils ont toujours la tote nuS lorsqu’ils sont 
 3l table, s’ils ont besoin de se moueber, ils se servent de leurs 
 doights, qu’ils essuyent cusuitc, et leur nez, h la nappe.” Voyage en 
 Mascovie, par Augustin, Baron SeMayerlurg, Lcid. 1 688, p. 62. 
 
 Olearios, secretary to the ambassador from the Court of Denmark, 
 gave a similar account of their morals in the middle of the seventeenth 
 ceotujy. The following short extracts are from the best edition of 
 his works, translated from the German by fTicquefort, and published 
 at Paris, A. D. 1666. 
 
 “ II est vray que les Moscovites ne manquent point d’esprit ; mais 
 ils 1’employent si mal, qu’il n’y a pas une de leurs actions, qui ait 
 
 pour 
 
 / 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 131 
 
 nineteenth century possesses all the servile pro- 
 pensities, the barbarity of manners, the cruelty, '■ 
 the hypocrisy, and the profligacy, which cha- 
 racterized his ancestors in the ninth. 
 
 pour le but la vertu, et la gloire, qui en est inseparable Leur 
 
 industric et la subtilitE dc leur esprit paroist principalement en leur 
 trafic, oh il n’y a point de tincsse, uy dc troraperie dont ils ne se ser- 
 vent, pour fourber les autres, plustost que pour se defendre de l’estre.” 
 Voyage d'Olear. tom. I. p. 1 45. 
 
 “ Et d’autaut que la tromperie nc s’cxerce point sans faussetE, san9 
 ineuteries et saus defiances, qui en sont inseparables, ils soavent mer- 
 veilleusement bien s'ayder de ces belles qualitEs, aussi bien que de la 
 ealomnie.*’ Ibid. p. 146. 
 
 “ De cettc facon d’agir des Moscovites, et du peu de fidelity qu'ils 
 ont entr'eux, Von peutjuger de ce que lea Estrangers en peuvcnt espirer, 
 etjusqu'ci quel point Von s’y peut jier. Ils n’qff 'rent jamais leur amilii, 
 et n'ert contraclent jamais, que pour leur interest particulier, et it dessein 
 cC en profiler . La mauvaise nourriture qu’on leur doime en leur jeu- 
 nesse, en laquelle ils n’apprennent au plus qu’h lire et escrire, et 
 quelques petitcs prices vulgaires, fait qu’ils suivent aveuglement ee 
 que l’on appelle aux bcstes l’instinet; de sortc que la nature cstant 
 en elle inesme dEpravEe et corrompuE, leur vie ne peut estre qu'un 
 debordement et dEreglement continuel, C’est pourquoy l’on n'y voit 
 rien que de brutal, et des effets de leurs passions et appEtits desor- 
 donnEs, i qui ils laschent la bride, sans aucune retenue.” Ibid, 
 p. 148. 
 
 “ Le naturel pervers des Moscovites, et la bassesse en laquelle ils 
 sont nourris, joint 5 la servitude, pour laquelle ils semblent estre nos, 
 font que 1’on est contraint de les traiter en bestes, plustfist qu’en 
 personnes raisonnables. Et ils y sont si bien accoustumEs, qu'il est 
 comme impossible de les porter au travail, si 1’on n’y employe le fofict 
 et le baston.” Ibid. p. 155. 
 
 It is the more necessary to cite these remarks, because authors of 
 celebrity, such, for example, as Puffendorf, offer very erroneous no- 
 tions to the student in modern history. “ On se tromperoit beau- 
 coup,” says he, “ si pour eonnoltre les Russes d’atyourd’hui, on 
 s’arrEtoit aux portraits qui ont EtE faits de cette nation avant le com- 
 mencement de ce siEcle.” Introd. h V Histon e Moderne, 8fc. tome IV. 
 p. 264, edit. Paris, 1756. , 
 
 K 2 
 
 CHAP, 
 
 VI. 
 
 
 
132 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap. J 0 hn Basilovich the First has been considered 
 
 VI. 
 
 ' , — t as one of the founders of the Russian Empire ; 
 
 *Ivkh? ast ' but his accession did not take place till the 
 middle of the fifteenth century. He arose, like 
 Buonaparte, in a period of national dismay; and 
 although described as a man of impetuous vices, 
 intrepid, artful, treacherous, having all the fero- 
 city of a savage, he has been hailed as the 
 deliverer of his country, and dignified by the 
 appellation of ‘ The Great. It is a title which an 
 oppressed intimidated people have frequently 
 bestowed upon tyrants. Until his time, how- 
 ever, Tahtars were lords of Moscow ; the Tsars 
 themselves being obliged to stand in the pre- 
 sence of Tahtar ambassadors while the latter 
 sat at meat ; and to endure the most humiliat- 
 ing ceremonies. Basilovich shook off the Tahtar 
 yoke ; but it was long before the Russians, 
 always children of imitation, ceased to mimic 
 a people by whom they had been conquered. 
 They had neither arts nor opinions of their own: 
 every thing in Moscoiv was Tahtar ian ; dress, 
 manners, buildings, equipages, in short, all, 
 excepting religion and language. Basilovich, at 
 the conquest of Casan, was solemnly crowned 
 with the diadem of that kingdom : this is said 
 to be the same now used for the coronation of 
 the Russian Sovereigns. In the reign of his 
 successor, Moscow was again taken by the 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 133 
 
 Tahlars , and its Tsar subjected to an ignomi- 
 nious tribute. Twelve years afterwards, the 
 eldest son of that successor, John Basilovich the 
 Second, then an infant, but afterwards a fero- 
 cious and implacable tyrant, came to the 
 throne '. 
 
 It is a curious fact, that, in the very opening 
 of his reign, three hundred artists, intended for 
 Russia, were arrested in the town of Lubeck. 
 What the great work then carrying on in Moscow 
 was, is now uncertain; but it evidently proves a 
 disposition, on the part of the sovereign, to 
 superinduce the hearts of Western nations over 
 the long-established Oriental customs of his 
 
 (l) Some writers endeavour to apologise for the conduct and cha- 
 racter of John Basilovich the Second. The Editors of the Modern 
 Universal History even speak of him with eulogium. (Vol. XXXV. 
 p. 259.) Mr. Co.ve thinks his character has been misrepresented ; 
 (Trav. vol. I. p. :W2.) and yet allows it would be “ contrary to his- 
 torical evidence to deny many of the cruelties committed by him." 
 If the horrible cruelties related of this monarch by Ur. Crull (see 
 Account of Muscovy, vol. 1. p. 331 . Bond. 1698) be untrue, what will be 
 said of the narrative of those persons who were eye-witnesses of many 
 of his enormities ? Crull says, his affected sanctity led Jovius into the 
 mistake of calling him a good Christian. “ But if any delight to reaile 
 the terrible and bloudie acts of Ivan Basilovich, he may glut, if not 
 drowne himsell'e in bloud, in that historie which Paul Odcrborne hath 
 written of his life, and both there and hi others take view of his other 
 unjust acts. I will not depose for their truth, though I cannot dis- 
 prove it : adversaries perhaps make the worst. For myselfe, 1 list not 
 to rake sinkes against him, and would speake in his defence, if I found 
 not an universall conspiracy of all historie and reports against him. - ' 
 Puretuu his Pilgrimes, lib. iv. c. 9. sect , ! . 
 
134 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, people. In this reign was built the church to 
 X I ~ ■ ■ which we have now alluded. The artists arrested 
 in Lubech were Germans. The architects em- 
 ployed for the Church of St. Basil were Italians ; 
 probably obtained by the connexion which sub- 
 sisted between the Tsars of Muscovy and the 
 Emperors of Constantinople'. From whatever 
 country they came, the taste displayed in the 
 edifice is evidently Tahtarian. How much the 
 manners of the people were so at this period, 
 may be shewn by reference to the curious and 
 interesting documents preserved in Hakluyt's 
 Collection of Voyages. It was during the 
 bloody administration of the tyrant who then 
 ruled in Russia that the first ambassadors went 
 from England to that country. By the accounts 
 they sent home, it appears the situation of 
 Englishmen in Russia was precisely what we 
 experienced two hundred and thirty years after- 
 wards, under the tyranny of the Emperor Paul, 
 the same disgusting race around them; the 
 same dread of being communicative in their 
 letters; the same desire to quit a scene of 
 barbarity and profligacy. The secretary to 
 
 (l) Some years afterwards, A.D. 1557, the Tsar again made an un- 
 successful application to the Court of Vienna for artists ; stating, that 
 “ he could easily procure them from France and Italy, hut that he 
 gave the preference to Germans: knowing them to he an upright, 
 virtuous, and honest people.” See the authors cited in the Mod. 
 Univ. Hist. vol. XXXV. p. 217. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 135 
 
 Randolph, who went as ambassador from Queen c **£ p * 
 Elizabeth, was a person of the name of George 
 Tubervile, and wrote “ Certaine Letters inVerse," Letter 
 to Dancie, Spenser, and Parker , “ describing the 
 maners of the countrey and people. He ap- 
 pears to have been a young man of fashion at 
 that time. We have selected some of the most 
 striking passages in these Letters, for a note - . 
 
 They are very little known, and worth the 
 Reader’s attention; not merely because they 
 
 (2) “ 1 left my native soile, full like a retehlesse man, 
 
 And unacquainted of the coast, among the Russes ran : 
 
 A people passing rude, to vices vile inclinde, 
 
 Folke (it to be of Bacchus train, so quaffing is their kinde. 
 
 * * « 
 
 “ Such lieour as they have, and as the eountrey gives, 
 
 But chiefly two, one called Kitas, whereby the Mrnsihe lives. 
 Small ware and waterlike, but somewhat tart in taste, 
 
 The rest is Mead of hunic made, wherewith their lips they baste. 
 
 » » * 
 
 « Their Idoles have their hearts, on God they never call, 
 
 Unlesse it be ( Nichola Baugh ) that hangs against the wall. 
 
 Tile house that hath no god, or painted saint, within. 
 
 Is uot to be resorted to, that roofe is full of shine.” ‘ 
 
 Hakluyt's Voyages, pp. 384—5. 
 
 He then proceeds to mention the dissolute lives of the women, and 
 their manner of painting their cheeks : and, at the close of his Letter 
 to Spenser, he says, 
 
 “ The people beastly bee. 
 
 I write not all 1 know, I touch but here and there ; 
 
 For if I should, my penne would pinch, and eke offend I feare. 
 
 • . * * 
 
 “ They say the lion’s paw gives judgement of the beast : 
 
 And so you may deeme of the great, by reading of the least. 
 
 Hid. p. 387. 
 
 Ju 
 
I 
 
 136 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, prove that Russia, when they were written, 
 
 > ' appeared as it does at this day, but also as 
 
 curious examples of early English poetry. The 
 work in which they are contained is extremely 
 rare, and bears an enormous price. Indeed 
 we are authorised in maintaining, that any 
 inquiry into the history of the people (whether 
 directed to writers who describe the brightest 
 
 In his Letter to Parker, the Tahtar dress and manner are thus strik- 
 ingly introduced : 
 
 “ Their garments he not gay, nor handsome to the eye ; 
 
 A cap aloft their heads they have, that standeth very hie, 
 
 Which Colpaek they do terme. They weare no ruffes at all : 
 
 The best have collers set with pearle, which they Rubascu call. 
 Their shirts in Russie long, they worke them downe before. 
 
 And on the sleeves with coloured silks, two inches good and more. 
 
 • • • 
 
 “ These are the Rustics robes. The richest use to ride 
 
 From place to place, his servant runnes, and followes by his side. 
 The Cassacke beares his felt, to force away the raine : 
 
 Their bridles are not very brave, their saddles are but plaine. 
 
 • • • 
 
 “ For when the Russie is pursued by cruel foe. 
 
 He rides away, and suddenly betakes him to his boe. 
 
 And bends me but about in saddle as he sits. 
 
 And tlierewithall amids his race his following foe he hits. 
 
 Their bowes are very short, like Turkic bowes outright. 
 
 Of sinowes made with birchen barke, in cunning maner dight. 
 
 • » » 
 
 “ The maners are so Turkic like, the men so full of guile. 
 
 The women wanton, temples stuft with idoles that defile 
 The seats that sacred ought to be, the customes are so quaint. 
 
 As if I would describe the whole, I feare my pen would faint. 
 
 In surnme, I say, 1 never saw a prince that so did raigne, 
 
 Nor people so beset with Saints, yet all but vile and vaine. 
 
 Wilde Irish are as civill as the Hussies in their kindo. 
 
 Hard choice which is the best of both, ech bloody, rude, andblinde.” 
 
 Ibid.pp. 387—389. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 137 
 
 or the most gloomy annals of Russia) will prove CI 1 ^ P ' 
 the state of society in the country to exist now ' — v — 
 as it always has been. The leading testimony 
 (even of authors decidedly partial) is by no 
 means favourable to the character of its inhabi- 
 tants. So long ago as the middle of the last 
 century, when the Baron de Manstein wrote his 
 Memoirs 1 2 * concerning the interesting aera that 
 elapsed between the beginning of the reign of 
 Peter the Second, and the marriage of the late 
 Empress Catherine with the husband whose 
 murder Voltaire found it impossible to methodize *, 
 the insecurity of property, the total want of 
 public faith, the ignorance and the rudeness of 
 the people, were notorious 5 . De Manstein stu- 
 diously avoided all opprobrious reflections; attri- 
 buting the depreciating accounts, usually given 
 of the natives, to the little information strangers, 
 unacquainted with the language, can procure 4 . 
 
 It' will therefore be curious to adduce the evi- 
 dence, which may nevertheless be derived from 
 his work, to validate the description we have 
 
 (1) Memoirs of Russia by the Baron de Manstein, a German , who 
 served in the Russian army. He afterwards became a general -officer 
 in the Prussian service. These Memoirs contain a history of Russia 
 from the year 1727 to the year 1744. 
 
 (2) See the Advertisement prefixed to this volume. , 
 
 (d) “ They were perfectly ignorant of all the rules of good breeding, 
 even of the laws of nations , and of those prerogatives of foreign ministers 
 which are established in the other Courts of Europe.” Supplement to 
 the Memoirs , tyc. p, 416. Second Edit . Land. 1773. 
 
 (4) Ibid. 
 
138 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VI. 
 
 ' ^ 
 
 given of the Russians; especially after the high 
 character given of the former by David Hume 1 2 . 
 It was during the reign ot the Empress Anne, 
 that Valinshy , a minister of the Crown, together 
 with his adherents, fell victims to the displeasure 
 of one of her favourites. After relating their 
 undeserved fate, and the confiscation ot their 
 property, De Manstein observes s : “ All the 
 estates of these unfortunate persons were given 
 toothers, who did not possess them long. In this 
 manner,” says he, “ it is, that in Russia, not only 
 money, but even lands, houses, and moveables, 
 circulate quicker than in any other country in 
 Europe. I have seen lands change masters at 
 least thrice in the space of two years." The same 
 author, describing their barbarous finery and 
 want of cleanliness halt a century ago, actually 
 delineated a portraiture of the nobles as they 
 appear at the present day 5 . “The richest coat 
 would be sometimes worn together with the 
 vilest uncombed wig ; or you might see a beau- 
 tiful piece of stuff spoiled by some botcher of a 
 tailor; or, if there were nothing amiss in the 
 dress, the equipage would be deficient. A man 
 richly dressed would come to Court in a mise- 
 rable coach, drawn by the wretchedest hacks. 
 
 (1) Hume vouches for his having been an eye-witness to most of 
 the incidents he has related, and speaks of the author s candour, good 
 sense, and impartiality.-— See Advertisement to the Memoits signed 
 “ David Hume.” 
 
 (2) Memoirs of Russia, p. 256. (3) Ibid. p. 247, 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 The same want of taste reigned in the furniture 
 and appearance of their houses. On one side 
 you might see gold and silver in heaps ; on the 
 other, “ a shocking dirtiness .” And then he adds , 
 “ It was enough for a dealer in the commodities 
 of luxury and fashion to remain two or three 
 years at Petersburg , to gain a competency foi 
 the rest of his life; even though he should have 
 begun the world there with goods upon credit. 
 Instances of this kind, during the period of our 
 residence in Russia, might be cited, as having 
 happened both in Petersburg and in Moscow. 
 
 ( 4 ) Memoirs of Russia, p. 248. 
 
PLAN of MOSCOW; shewing the Situation of the KREMLIN, and the Course of the Riven Moscva « 
 Nigliua, and Yousa. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Sunday Market — Promenades during Easter — Kremlin — 
 Holy Gate — Great Bell — Great Gun — Antient Palace 
 of the Tsars — Imperial Treasury — Manuscripts — Superh 
 Model — General appearance of the Kremlin — First 
 Christian Church — Festival of the Ascension. 
 
 C vn. P The market on a Sunday in Moscoiv is a novel 
 Sunday and entertaining spectacle. From five in the 
 .Market. m orning till eight, the Place de Galitzin, a spa- 
 cious area near the Kremlin, is filled with a 
 concourse of peasants, and people of every 
 description, coming to buy, or to sell, white pea- 
 cocks, fan-tailed and other curious pigeons, dogs 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 of all sorts for the sofa or the ehace, singing- 
 birds, poultry, guns, pistols, in short, whatso- 
 ever chance or custom may have rendered 
 saleable. The sellers, excepting in the market 
 of singing-birds, which is permanent and very 
 large, have no shops; they remain with their 
 wares exposed upon stalls, or they are seen 
 hawking them about in their hands. Dogs and 
 birds are the principal articles for sale. The 
 pigeon-feeders are distinguished in the midst of 
 the mob by long white wands, used for the 
 purpose of directing the pigeons in their flight. 
 The nobles of Moscow take great delight in 
 pigeons: a favourite pair will sell from five to 
 ten roubles in the market. We were surprised 
 to see the feeders, by way of exhibiting their 
 birds, let them fly, and then recover them again at 
 pleasure. The principal recommendation of these 
 birds consists in their rising to a great height in 
 the air, by a spiral curve, all flying one way, and 
 following each other. When a pigeon has bcerv 
 launched, if it do not continue in the same line of 
 curvature which the others observe, the feeder 
 whistles, waving at the same time his wand, 
 and then its course is immediately changed. 
 During these exhibitions, the nobles stake their 
 money in wagers, betting upon the height to 
 which the birds will ascend, and the number 
 of curves they will make in so doing. Among 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 142 
 
 chap. th e dogs for hunting, we observed a noble race, 
 
 * t - j which is common in Russia, with long hue hair, 
 like the Newfoundland breed, but of amazing 
 size and height; this kind of dog is used in 
 Russia to pursue the wolves, German pug-dogs, 
 highly appreciated in London, here bear a low 
 price: we were offered a very fine one for a 
 sum equivalent to an English shilling. We 
 observed also English harriers and fox-hounds: 
 but the breed most valued in Moscow is the 
 English terrier; this is rare in Russia, and a dog 
 of this kind will sell at so high a price as eighteen 
 roubles, or even higher, according to the caprice 
 of the buyer and seller. Persian cats were 
 offered for sale, of a bluish-grey or slate colour, 
 and much admired. Seeing several stalls 
 apparently covered with wheat, we approached 
 to examine its quality, and were amused in 
 finding that what had the appearance of wheat 
 consisted of large ants' eggs, heaped for sale, 
 jstear the same stalls were tubs full of pismires, 
 creeping among the eggs, and upon the clothes 
 of those who sold them. Both the eggs and the 
 ants are brought to Moscoiv as food for nightin- 
 gales, the favourite, although common, singing 
 birds in Russian houses ; their notes being in 
 every respect as wild and pleasing, when con- 
 fined in cages, as in their native woods. We 
 often heard them in the bird-shops, warbling 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 143 
 
 with all the fulness and variety of tone which c ^ p - 
 distinguishes the nightingale in its natural state'. 1 
 The price of a nightingale, in lull song, is about 
 fifteen roubles. The Russians, by rattling beads 
 on one of their tables of tangible arithmetic 2 , can 
 make these birds sing at pleasure during the 
 day : but nightingales are heard throughout the 
 night, making the streets of the city resound the 
 melodies of the forest. 
 
 The promenades at this season of the year 
 are among the many sights in Moscow which are ing Easier. 
 interesting to a stranger. The principal pro- 
 menade is on the first of May ( Russian style), 
 in a forest near the city. It afiords a very 
 curious spectacle, because it is frequented by the 
 bourgeoisie as well as by the nobles, and the 
 national costume may then be observed in its 
 greatest splendour. The procession of car- 
 riages and persons on horseback is immense. 
 Beneath the trees, and upon the greensward, 
 Russian peasants are seen seated in their gayest 
 dresses, expressing their joy by shouting and by 
 tumultuous songs. The music of the balalaika. 
 
 (1) X have been since informed, that this method of keeping and 
 feeding nightingales is becoming prevalent rn our own country. 
 
 (2) This kind of Counting-Table, universally used in Russia, and 
 which appears in the paintings of the Chinese, is the Abacus of the 
 Antients. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 144 
 
 chap, the shrill notes of rustic pipes, the clapping of 
 i ^ hands, and the wild dances of the gipsies, all 
 mingle in one revelry. The wives of merchants, 
 in droskies, and on foot, display head-dresses of 
 matted pearls, and other most expensive attire. 
 In costliness of apparel, there is no difference 
 between a Moscow princess and the wife of a 
 Moscow shopkeeper ; except that the first 
 copies the fashions of London and Paris, while 
 the other preserves the habit of her ancestors. 
 During Easter, promenades take place every 
 evening, varying occasionally in the site of 
 cavalcade. They are made in carriages and on 
 horseback; the number of the former being 
 greater than any public festival assembles in 
 other cities in Europe. The intention of such 
 meeting is of course the same everywhere; to 
 see and to be seen. Equipages continue to 
 pass in a constant order, forming two lines, 
 which move parallel to each other. Beautiful 
 women, attired in expensive but becoming 
 dresses, fill the balconies and windows of the 
 houses between which all this pageantry moves 
 towards its destination. Hussars and police- 
 officers are meanwhile stationed in different 
 parts, to preserve order. When arrived at the 
 place particularly set apart for the display of 
 the procession, the stranger with amazement 
 beholds some objects which are singularly 
 
 i 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 contrasted with the splendour of the cavalcade; 
 and among these, miserable hovels, and wooden 
 huts, hardly discernible amidst clouds of dust. 
 On Friday in the Easter-week, the place of 
 promenade is better selected: it is then on a 
 plain called La Vallce, and the sight is the most 
 surprising that can be conceived. Long before 
 reaching this plain, the throng of carriages is 
 so great, that it can scarcely move 1 . At last 
 the great scene opens, and the view which 
 breaks all at once upon the spectator is indeed 
 striking. A procession, as far as the eye can 
 reach, is seen passing and repassing a spacious 
 and beautiful lawn, terminated by the spires of 
 a convent. Not less than two thousand car- 
 riages, generally with six horses to each, but 
 
 (l) It may be well to insert here an extract from Mr. Heber’s 
 Journal , concerning the population of this remarkable city ; as that 
 gentleman has made very particular inquiry upon the subject, and his 
 zealous attention to accuracy appears in every statement. 
 
 “ The circuit of Moscow we have heard variously stated ; it may, 
 perhaps, be about thirty-six versts (twenty-six miles), but this includes 
 many void spaces. The population is, as usual, exaggerated. It is 
 decidedly greater than that of Petersburg; we should think three or 
 four times as much, judging from the concourse in the streets. The 
 extent, in comparison with that of Petersburg, is nearly, as may be 
 seen by the Plan, twelve to one; and yet, from the master of the 
 police, of all men the most likely to know, the population was esti. 
 mated at only 5250,000 fixed inhabitants. The servants and numerous 
 retainers of the nobles may be perhaps estimated at nearly 30,000, 
 which are ouly here in winter.” Heber's MS- Journal. 
 
 VOL. I. L 
 
146 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VII. 
 
 V 
 
 never less than four, are present upon this 
 occasion. So much for the general effect. The 
 appearance, in detail, of the equipages, lackeys, 
 and drivers, beggars all description. The pos- 
 tillions are generally old men of a woful aspect, 
 dressed in liveries of worsted lace, and weamig 
 cocked hats : these wretched bipeds hold their 
 whip and reins as if they had never before been 
 so employed. The harness, consisting of ropes 
 and cords, frequently ragged, and always dirty, 
 is very unlike the white traces used in Poland, 
 which have a pleasing, it not a magnificent ap- 
 pearance. The carriages themselves, almost 
 as filthy as the night-coaches of London, are 
 ill-built, old-fashioned, heavy, and ugly. It is 
 only the amazing number of equipages that 
 affords any ideas of wealth or grandeur. 
 Examined separately, every thing is little and 
 mean. The procession extends upon the plain 
 as far as the convent before mentioned , and then 
 it returns back, observing the order in which it 
 advanced. In the line between the carriages, a 
 space is reserved for the cavaliers, who make 
 their appearance upon the most beautiful En- 
 glish and Turkish horses, riding, as they all 
 maintain, a V Anglois , but without the smallest 
 resemblance to the manner of Englishmen. 
 Their horses are taught the manege, and con- 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 147 
 
 tinue to pace and champ the bit, without ad- C y I A I p ‘ 
 vancing a step; occasionally plunging, like those ■“ 
 exhibited in ampitheatres ; while their riders, 
 in laced coats and ruffles, with cocked hats, 
 and saddles sumptuously embroidered, imagine 
 they display surprising feats of horsemanship. 
 Several families preserve the old Russian cos- 
 tume, in their servants’ habits; others clothe 
 their attendants like the running footmen in 
 Italy ; so that the variety formed by such a 
 motley appearance is very amusing. 
 
 The numberless bells of Moscow continue to 
 ring during the whole of the Easter week, tink- 
 ling and tolling, without any kind of harmony 
 or order. The large bell near the cathedral is 
 only used upon important occasions: when it 
 sounds, a deep and hollow murmur vibrates all 
 over Moscow, like the fullest and lowest tones of 
 a vast organ, or the rolling of distant thunder. 
 
 This bell is suspended in a tower called The 
 Belfry of St. Ivan, beneath others, which, al- 
 though of less size, are also enormous. It is 
 forty feet nine inches in circumference ; sixteen 
 inches and a half thick ; and it weighs more than 
 fifty-seven tons*. 
 
 (l) 3551 Russian pouds. [ Voyage lie Deux ’ Franfuis, tome III. 
 p. 295. 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap. The Kremlin is, above all other places, most 
 . VI v worthy a traveller s notice. It was our evening 
 Kremlin ' walk, whenever we could escape from the 
 engagements of society. The view of the city 
 from this place surpasses every other, both in sin- 
 gularity and splendour ; especially from St. Ivan s 
 Tower. It is surrounded on all sides by walls, 
 towers, and a rampart, and is filled with domes 
 and steeples. Its appearance differs in every 
 point of view, on account ol the strange irre- 
 gularity in the edifices it contains. Entering this 
 fortress by an arched portal, painted red, which 
 Holy Gate, is called the Holy Gate, persons ol every descrip- 
 tion are compelled to walk bare-headed, near a 
 hundred paces. This gate is on the south side, 
 facing the quarter of the shops. The approach 
 to it is by a bridge, across the fosse that sur- 
 rounds the walls. It is a vaulted Propylccum ; 
 and over the entrance there is a picture ', before 
 which a lamp is seen continually burning. Sen- 
 tinels are here placed, as at all the entrances to 
 the Kremlin. No person ventures to pass this 
 
 (l) “ You enter the Holy Cate by a long narrow bridge over the 
 
 fosse. On the left hand is a noble view down to the river. The whole 
 
 coup dteeil much resembled Seringapatam, as represented in Kerr 
 Porter's Panorama. In passing under the Holy Gate, all hats are 
 taken off, in reverence for a saint suspended over it, who delivered the 
 citadel, as tradition affirms, by striking a sudden panic into an army 
 Of Poles, which had possession of the town, and had almost succeeded 
 in forcing this gate of the Kremlin.” Hebei's MS. Journal. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 • 149 
 
 gate without taking off his hat\ The author C y, A j P ' 
 wished to see if this absurd rule was rigorously 
 enforced, and, feigning ignorance, entered be- 
 neath the arch with his hat on. A sentinel 
 challenged him ; but, without taking any notice 
 of the sentinel, he walked forward. Next, a 
 bare-headed peasant met him, and, seeing his 
 head covered, summoned the sentinels and peo- 
 ple with very loud expressions of anger ; who, 
 seizing him by the arms, very soon taught him 
 in what manner to pass the Holy Gate for the 
 future. 
 
 The Great Bell of Moscow, known to be the Great Beil, 
 largest ever found, is in a deep pit in the midst 
 of the Kremlin. The history of its fall is a fable; 
 and as writers have been induced to copy each 
 other, the story continues to be propagated. 
 
 The fact is, the bell remains in the place where 
 it was originally cast. It never was suspended ; 
 the Russians might as well attempt to suspend 
 a first-rate line-of-battle ship, with all her guns 
 
 (2) In this description of the Kremlin (the antient residence of the 
 Tsars of Russia ), with its Holly Gate , the classical reader will recognise the 
 old Grecian custom of the Acropolis , answering to the iSp* Tltkevitev 
 of SornocLES (Electro, v. 10.) ; and the Obrazc, or Image, placed over the 
 Entrance, before which a Russian crosses himself, will remind him of the 
 homage rendered by Orestes to the tutelary Gods of Mycenae, stationed over 
 the consecrated Propylcea ; otroi<ri^ <r^otv>.a vnlovmv Ibid, v* 1391. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 chap. am l stores. A fire took place in the Kremlin ; 
 
 \ IL , and the flames catching the building erected 
 over the pit where the bell yet remained, it 
 became hot ; when some water, thrown to extin- 
 guish the fire, fell upon the heated metal, and 
 caused the fracture that has taken place in the 
 lower part of it. The bell reaches from the 
 bottom of the pit to the roof. The entrance to 
 the place where it lies, is by a trap door, placed 
 even with the surface of the earth ; and beneath 
 the entrance are ladders. We found the steps 
 of the ladders very dangerous ; some being 
 wanted, and others broken. In consequence of 
 this the author encountered a very severe fall 
 down the whole extent of the first flight ; and 
 narrowly escaped losing his life, in not frac- 
 turing his scull upon the bell. After this acci- 
 dent, a sentinel was stationed at the trap-door, to 
 prevent people from becoming victims to their 
 curiosity. The same person, it is true, might 
 have been as well employed in mending the 
 ladders, as in waiting all day to say that they 
 were broken. The bell is truly a mountain of 
 metal. It is said to contain a very large pro- 
 portion of gold and silver. While it was in 
 fusion, the nobles and the people cast in, as 
 votive offerings, their plate and their money. 
 We endeavoured, in vain, to assay a small part : 
 but the natives regarded it with superstitious 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 151 
 
 veneration, and they would not allow even a chap. 
 
 grain to be filed off. At the same time, it may _ 
 
 be observed, that the compound has a white 
 shining appearance, unlike bell-metal in gene- 
 ral ; and perhaps its silvery aspect strength- 
 ened, if not caused, the conjecture respecting 
 the nature and value of its chemical consti 
 tuents. 
 
 On festival days, the peasants visit this bell 
 as they would resort to a sanctuary; consider- 
 ing it as an act of devotion; crossing themselves 
 all the way as they descend and ascend the 
 steps. We found the bottom of the pit covered 
 with water, mud, and large pieces of timber; 
 which, added to the darkness of the place, 
 render it always unpleasant and unwholesome, 
 independently of the danger arising from the 
 rotten ladders leading to the bottom. We went, 
 however, frequently thither, in order to ascertain 
 the dimensions of the bell with exactness. To 
 our surprise, during one of those visits, hall a 
 dozen Russian officers, whom we found in the 
 pit, agreed to assist us in making the admeasure- 
 ment. It so nearly agreed with the account 
 published by Jonas Hanway, that the difference 
 is not worth notice. This is somewhat remark- 
 able, considering the difficulty of exactly mea- 
 suring what is partly buried in the eai th, and 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 the circumference of which is not entire. No 
 one has yet ascertained the circumference of the 
 base ; this would afford still greater dimensions 
 than those we obtained ; but it is entirely buried. 
 About ten persons were present when we mea- 
 sured the part exposed to observation. We 
 applied a strong cord, close to the metal, as 
 nearly as possible round the lower part where 
 it touches the ground ; taking care, at the same 
 time, not to stretch the cord. From the piece 
 of the bell broken off, it was ascertained that 
 we had thus measured within two feet of the lip, 
 or lower extremity. The circumference thus 
 obtained ecpialled sixty-seven feet and four 
 inches ; allowing a diameter of twenty-two feet, 
 five inches, and one third of an inch. We then 
 took the perpendicular height from the top ; 
 and found it to correspond exactly with the 
 statement made by Hanway ; namely, twenty- 
 one feet, four inches and a half. In the stoutest 
 part, that in which it should have received the 
 blow of the hammer, its thickness equalled 
 twenty-three inches. We were able to ascer- 
 tain this, by placing our hands, under water, 
 where the fracture took place : this is above 
 seven feet high from the lip of the bell. The 
 weight of this enormous mass of metal has 
 been computed to be 443, 772" lbs.', which, if 
 valued at three shillings a pound, amounts to 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 153 
 
 £.66,565. 165 . lying unemployed, and of no use CG ^ r - 
 to any one 1 . ^ ' — • — ' 
 
 The Great Gun , also among the wonders of Great Gun - 
 the Kremlin, we measured with less facility ; 
 being always interrupted by the sentinels, one 
 of whom pointed his bayonet at us, and threat- 
 ened to stab us if we persisted in our intention : 
 yet, by walking its length, we found it to be 
 about eighteen feet and a half; and its diameter 
 may be guessed, because it will admit a man of 
 middle stature sitting upright within its mouth. 
 
 Its lip, moreover, is ten inches thick. This gun 
 is kept merely for ostentation, and is never 
 
 (l) The Great Bell of Moscow has long been a theme of 
 wonder, and it is mentioned by almost every traveller. The sub- 
 ject is of no importance ; but it may be well to add, that the accounts 
 given of it do not apply to the same thing. Olearies describes that 
 which he saw in 1636. It is the same mentioned in p. 147 of this 
 Volume, founded by Boris Gudenof. (See Olear. tom. I. p. 107.' 
 Augustine, ambassador from Germany in 1661, describes that which 
 here engaged our attention. Jonas Hanway, and thosewho succeeded 
 him, bear reference to the same. It was founded, according to Augustine, 
 in 1653, during the reign of Alexis. (See Voyage de Moscou, p. 117-1 
 The Russians and people of Moscow maintain that it was cast during 
 the reign of their Empress Anne, probably from the female 
 figure represented ; which may have been intended for the Virgin. 
 Augustine's account of the weight, and his measurement of the bell, arc 
 too near the truth to suppose any other was described by him. They 
 employed, says he, in casting it, a weight of metal equal to 440,000/ta. 
 He moreover states its thickness equal to two feet, which is within an 
 inch of what has been here said. He also proves that it is larger than 
 the famous bell of Erford, and even than that of Pekin. 
 
154 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap. used'. Notwithstanding the neglect it has expe- 
 ^ n ~ , rienced, it remains in good order, without having 
 sustained any damage. It was cast in 1694. 
 
 Hard by, are placed some artillery of less caliber, 
 but of very extraordinary length 2 . 
 
 There was nothing at this time prohibited 
 under more severe penalty than the making ot 
 any drawing or sketch within the Kremlin. 
 Owing to this circumstance, we are prevented 
 
 (,) According to the Voyage de Deux FranfaU, tom. W.p. 296. its 
 weight is 2400 foods ; and its dimensions, sixteen French feet in length, 
 and four feet three inches in diameter, deducting sixteen inches for 
 the thickness of the piece. 
 
 (2) A curious notice of the brass cannon in the Kremhn occurs in 
 Eden’s History of Travayles, as augmented by miles, and printed by 
 Jueee , in the black letter, at London, in 1577- It is gathered out of 
 Paulus Jovius, and proves that they had the use of artillery in Moscow 
 so early as the reign of Ilasil Ivanovich. “ Basilius dyd furthermore 
 instytute a bande of hargabusiers on horsehacke, and caused many 
 great brasen peeees to be made by the workemanshyp of certayne 
 Italians : and the same with theyr stockes and wheeles to be placed 
 in the Castle of Mosca.” Eden's Hist. p. 301 . 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 155 
 
 giving the superb view it affords of the city. r (, ,AP ‘ 
 
 But as the objects within its walls are always ' — 
 
 interesting to strangers, artists of merit were not 
 wanting for their representation. It was how- 
 ever with the greatest difficulty we succeeded 
 in obtaining a view of the interior of the fortress, 
 containing the undent palace of the Tsars. A ^^To( 
 window appears in the front of this building the Tsars, 
 (which is an irregular Gothic edifice), distin- 
 guished by two Gothic pillars. It is the same 
 whence Demetrius, in his attempt to escape, 
 during the conspiracy of Zusky, fell, and broke 
 his thigh, previous to his massacre. He low- 
 ered himself to a considerable distance by a rope ; 
 but the height was still too great for any hope of 
 safety. Despair must have been great indeed, 
 when it induced any one to make the attempt. 
 
 That window was also the place where the 
 sovereigns of Russia were wont to sit, and to re- 
 ceive petitions from their subjects. The petition 
 was placed upon a stone in the court below , and 
 if the Tsar thought proper, he sent for it. The 
 Imperial treasure is now in cases around the walls 
 of the upper apartments of this palace: the 
 approach to the Treasury is by a stone staircase, 
 memorable for massacres committed there by 
 the Strelitzes, during the mutiny excited by the 
 sister of Peter the Gkeat. It is not a pleasing 
 reflection which some writers have urged, that 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 the greatest atrocities, in times of anarchy or 
 despotism, have been perpetrated by women. 
 History, they affirm, has not recorded, nor has 
 the severe pen of Tacitus ever described, such 
 monsters as were Catherine de Medicis, the 
 bloodij Mary, and the females of France during the 
 late Revolution. In the revolt of the Strelit7.es, 
 the Princess Sophia has been accused of leading 
 them to the execution of the most shocking 
 enormities. Later writers have undertaken her 
 defence ; and, among others, Mr. Coxe has col- 
 lected many ingenious arguments to disprove the 
 aspersions of Voltaire. Compelled, as we often 
 are, to view the characters of illustrious persons 
 in the representation of their adversaries, made 
 amidst the rancour and cabal of parties, we may 
 suspect the justice of a reproach thus cast upon 
 the female sex. The unreasonableness of the 
 obloquy to which the character of Richard the 
 Third was exposed, by writers during the reign 
 of Henry the Seventh, is now pretty generally 
 admitted: yet long-established prejudice is not 
 easily removed. Referring to the history of the 
 Crusades, we find the Saracens always branded 
 with the name of barbarians; although their 
 Christian invaders borrowed from that people the 
 first dawnings of civilization. A scene more 
 striking, as a subject for historical painting, can 
 hardly be conceived, than was exhibited upon 
 
MOSCOW. 157 
 
 this staircase, when the venerable Patriarch, c ^ p - 
 bearing in one hand an obraze, or image of the 1 — . — 1 
 Virgin Mary, which was supposed to work mira- 
 cles, and leading young John Narishkin by the 
 other, followed by his weeping sister and the 
 princesses, descended, calling on the infuriate 
 mob to spare his life. The populace had been 
 two days seeking him ; and had threatened to set 
 the palace on fire, if he were not delivered to be 
 put to death. No sooner had these tigers seized 
 their victim, than, cutting his body in pieces, 
 they fixed his head, feet, and hands, on the iron 
 spikes of the balustrade. 
 
 We ascended by this blood-stained passage 
 to the Imperial Treasury. It contains very little 
 worth notice. The old General who had the 
 care of it was obliged to attend in person, when- 
 ever permission for seeing it had been obtained. 
 
 He was very ill during our visit, and, being 
 placed in an arm-chair in one of the apartments, 
 sat grumbling the whole time with pain and 
 impatience. The various articles have been 
 enumerated in the anonymous Travels of Two 
 Frenchmen who complain of being hurried, as 
 we were. Habits of ceremony worn by the sove- 
 
 (1) Voyage de Deux Franfais, a work of very considerable merit, 
 prohibited at the time wc were in liussia. It has been occasionally 
 referred to in this Volume. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 reigns of Russia at their coronation, and other 
 costly embroidered robes, thickly studded with 
 gems and pearls, occupied the principal cabinets, 
 and appeared to constitute the chief ornaments 
 of the Treasury. Among a number of such 
 dresses was a vest, twelve yards in length, worn 
 by Catherine the Second. It was supported 
 by twelve chamberlains at her coronation. The 
 practice of exhibiting splendid attire charac- 
 terized the Russians in times of their earliest 
 potentates. From the accounts afforded by the 
 ambassadors of our own country, so long ago as 
 the reign of Philip and Mary, we find it was 
 the custom at Moscow to clothe tradesmen, and 
 other inhabitants, elders of the city, in rich gar- 
 ments, and to place them in the antechamber of 
 the sovereign on days of audience ; but when the 
 ceremony ended, these costly vestments were 
 again replaced within the Treasury. In a Letter 
 written by Henry Lane to Sanderson', describing 
 his introduction, with Chance ller, to the Tsar s 
 presence, in the year 1555, this circumstance is 
 particularly mentioned. “ They entred sundry 
 roomes, furnished in shew with ancient grave 
 personages, all in long garments of sundry co- 
 lours ; golde, tissue, baldekin, and violet, as our 
 vestments and copes have bene in England, 
 
 (]) Hackluyt, vol. I. p.4(J5. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 159 
 
 sutable with caps, jewels, and chaines. These chap. 
 
 were found to be no courtiers, but ancient Mm- y — 
 
 covites, inhabitants, and other their merchants of 
 eredite, as the maner is, furnished thus from the 
 wardrobe and treasurie, waiting and wearing 
 this apparell for the time, and so to restore it." 
 
 Two years after. Captain Jenkinson was sent from 
 England to conduct the Russian ambassador to 
 Moscow. As he and his companions were pre- 
 paring to leave that city, they received an 
 invitation to see the Emperor's treasury and 
 wardrobe. Having seen all his “ goodly gownes,” 
 two of which are described “ as heavie as a man 
 could easily carrie, all set with pearles over and 
 over, and the borders garnished with saphires 
 and other good stones abundantly,” they were 
 particularly enjoined to procure such, or better, 
 in England *, and told “ that the Emperour would 
 gladly bestow his money upon such things.” 
 
 The crowns of conquered kingdoms are ex- 
 hibited in the Treasury. We saw those of 
 Casan, of Siberia, of Astracan , and of the Crimea. 
 
 The last, from its simplicity, and the circum- 
 stances connected with its history, excited the 
 most interest. It was totally destitute of 
 ornament: affording a remarkable contrast to 
 the lavish store of riches seen on all the 
 
 (2) Hackluyt, vol. 1. p. 319. 
 
160 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, objects around it, and being emblematical ot the 
 simplicity and virtue of the people from whom 
 it had been plundered'. Its form was very 
 antient, and resembled that usually given by 
 painters to our English si If red. Ihe part of 
 the Treasury containing the most valuable ob- 
 jects is a chamber where the crowns of the 
 Russian sovereigns are deposited. It is said, 
 the rubies once adorning those of the Empress 
 Anne and of Peter the Second have been 
 changed, and stones of less value substituted 
 in their place 4 . 
 
 Some things were shewn to us that were 
 formerly considered of great value, but are 
 now curious only from their antiquity ; such, 
 for instance, as a long ivory comb, with which 
 the Tsars combed their flowing beards. Cup- 
 boards, below the glass-cases covering the 
 walls, were filled with a profusion of goblets, 
 rases, plates, cups of all sorts, basons , gold and 
 silver candlesticks, and other articles of value, 
 the gift of foreign princes and tributary states. 
 A round box cf gilded silver contains, upon 
 a scroll, the code of laws ot the several pro- 
 
 (1) The writers of the Voyage de Deux Franfais mention a very 
 antient crown of gold, which may be that here noticed. “ Une autre 
 couronne, d’or, plus simple que toutes les autres, qui parolt fort 
 ancienne, mais dont on n’a pas pu nous dire 1 origine. 
 
 (2) Voyage de Deux Francais, tom. III. p. 2S1. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 lGi 
 
 vinces of the empire, collected by Alexis, father c hap. 
 
 of Peter the Great, one of the best and ' 
 
 wisest princes that ever sat upon the Russian 
 throne. There are also some pieces of me- 
 chanism that would now be little esteemed 
 anywhere : a toilette entirely of amber : ser- 
 
 pentine vessels, supposed to possess the pro- 
 perty of disarming poison of its deadly quality : 
 masquerade dresses worn by their sovereigns : 
 a few natural curiosities; and among these, 
 the horn of a Narvhal, above eight feet in 
 length. This kind of whale is found near the 
 mouths of rivers falling into the Icy Sea, or 
 upon the shores of lakes in the same latitude. 
 
 The horns and tusks of animals, in a fossile 
 state, form a considerable article of the internal 
 commerce of Russia. Perhaps the ivory ma- 
 nufactured at Archangel may have been dug 
 up in the north of Russia. Professor Pallas 
 informed us, that such prodigious quantities 
 of elephants’ teeth were discovered on an island 
 north of the Samoiede Land, that caravans come 
 annually laden with them to Petersburg. The 
 most remarkable circumstance is, that, instead 
 of being mineralized, like elephants’ tusks found 
 in the South of Europe, they may be wrought 
 with all the facility of the most perfect ivory : 
 but this only happens when they are found in 
 a latitude where the soil is perpetually frozen ; 
 
 VOL. I. M 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 they have then been preserved, like the fishes 
 and other articles of food brought annually to 
 the winter markets of Petersburg. Those dug 
 in the southern parts of Siberia, are found either 
 soft and decayed, or mineralized by siliceous 
 infiltrations, and metalline compounds. What 
 a source of wondrous reflection do these dis- 
 coveries open ! If frost alone have preserved 
 them, they were frozen in the moment of their 
 deposit; and thus it appears, that an animal 
 peculiar to the warmest regions of the earth 
 must, at some distant period, have been ha- 
 bituated to a temperature which it could not 
 now endure for an instant. In the epistolary 
 mummery bartered by the late Empress Ca- 
 therine with Voltaire, these animal remains 
 are brought forward to gratify his infidelity 1 2 * : 
 and it is difficult to say who appears most 
 abject in the eyes of posterity; Catherine, 
 condescending to gratify the scepticism of a 
 man she inwardly despised ; or the arch-infidel 
 himself, having nearly completed his eighth 
 decade 5 , sometimes by insinuation, and often 
 
 (1) “ Mais une chose qui dOnontre, je pense, quc le monde cst mi 
 peu plus vieux quc nos nourrices nc nous le disent, c’cst qu on trouve 
 dans lc Nord de la Sibdrie, i plusieurs toises sous terre, des osseinens 
 dV'li'-ptiatiS qui depuis tort long-temps n’habitent plus ces contr^es. 
 Lett, de V Impiratrxce a M. de Voltaire, dans les (Euores de Volt, 
 tome lxvii. p, 201. Edit. 1785. 
 
 (2) “ J’aurai k la v^ritd soixante et dix-sept ans, et je n’ai pas la 
 
 vigueur d’un Turc ; mais je ue vois pas ce qui pourrait m’einpCcher 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 163 
 
 by direct entreaty, meanly courting an invitation c **ap. 
 to Petersburg, which neither his drivelling gal- v — v— 
 lantry, nor fulsome adulation could obtain. 
 
 In a very antient part of the palace, formerly 
 inhabited by the Patriarchs, and adjoining to 
 their chapel, are kept the dresses worn by them; 
 these are also exhibited in glass-cases. They 
 requested us particularly to notice the habits of 
 Nicon and St. Nicholas; the tiaras sent to the Patri- 
 archs from the Emperors of Constantinople; 
 the crucifixes borne in their solemn processions ; 
 the patriarchal staves, and relics. Several of 
 the last were inserted in cavities cut within a 
 wooden crucifix. Among other things adding to 
 its prodigious sanctity and miraculous powers, 
 a part of one of the bones of Mary Magdalene 
 was pointed out to us. The dresses were very 
 antient, but full as magnificent as those we had 
 seen at the ceremony of the Resurrection ; gold 
 and silver being the meanest ornaments lavished 
 
 <le venir dans les beaux jours saluer l’dtoile du Nord ct maudirc le 
 croissant. Nfltre Madame Geoffrin a bien fait le voyage de Varsovie ; 
 pourquoi n’entreprendrais-je pas celui de Pitcrsbourg au mois 
 d’ Avril Lett, tie Volt, d V Imperat. Ibid. p. 49. 
 
 To which the Empress replied, that she admired his courage ; but 
 knowing the delicate state of his health, she could rwt consent to ex- 
 pose him to the dangers of so long a journey. Moreover, she added, 
 “ it may happen, if things continue as they are, that the prosperity of 
 niy affairs may demand my presence in the southern provinces oj my 
 empire.” Ibid. p. 50. 
 
 M 2 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 upon them. Many were entirely covered with 
 pearls, and otherwise adorned with emeralds, 
 rubies, diamonds, sapphires, and precious gems 
 of Siberia. In smaller cabinets we saw onyx- 
 stones wrought in cameo work, exhibiting images 
 ’of Jesus and of the Virgin ; these were not less 
 than three inches and a half in length, and two 
 in breadth. They shewed us, moreover, vessels 
 of massive silver, made to contain consecrated 
 oil : this is sent all over Russia, from Moscow , 
 for the service of the Greek churches. Sixteen 
 of these vessels, of very considerable magnitude, 
 each capable of containing from three to four 
 gallons, were presented by the Emperor Paul. 
 
 In the chapel adjoining the chambers where 
 the treasures are kept, is a collection of Manu- 
 scripts in Greek and Sclavonic ; also more of the 
 bones of Mary Magdalene . By much the greater 
 number of the manuscripts are in the Sclavonic 
 language. The priest who had the care of them 
 conversed with us in Latin; affirming, that 
 among the Sclavonic, or, as he termed them, the 
 Ruthenic manuscripts, there was a copy of the 
 works of Virgil, and one of Livy. He was not, 
 however, able to find either of them, and we 
 imputed the whole story to his ignorance and 
 vanity. We afterwards conversed with Arch- 
 bishop Plato upon the same subject; who 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 165 
 
 assured us nothing of any importance existed c **ap- 
 among those manuscripts. The priest translated, v — v — 
 or pretended to translate, some of their titles, 
 from the Sclavonic language, into Latin. If the 
 account he gave us can be relied on, the collec- 
 tion contains the Travels of Pilgrims to Jerusalem 
 in very remote periods. 
 
 In Russian characters, illuminated, and written 
 upon antient vellum paper, is a folio copy of the 
 Gospels, most beautifully transcribed by Anne, 
 daughter of Michael Feodorovich. We were 
 also shewn, as at Petersburg, some carving in 
 wood by Peter the Great. This was a small 
 box, containing a letter, dated 1697, sent by him, 
 from Sardam in Holland, to the Patriarchs at Mos- 
 cow. The priest permitted us to make a facsimile 
 of his hand-writing : for this purpose we copied 
 with great care the signature to his letter. It was 
 simply his Christian name, and thus written : 
 
 Having obtained the keys from the secretary’s ^* of 
 office, we were admitted to see the famous ^ Krem * 
 Model of the Kremlin, according to the plan for 
 its erection under the auspices of the late Em- 
 press. It is one of the most curious things in 
 Moscow. If the work had been completed, it 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 would have been the wonder of the world. The 
 architect who constructed the plan was a Rus- 
 sian, and had studied in Paris'. This model 
 cost fifty thousand roubles. The expense neces- 
 sary for the accomplishment of the undertaking 
 (as the architect Camporesi, who made the esti- 
 mate, assured us) would have been fifty millions 
 of roubles. The calculation laid before the Em- 
 press stated the amount only at twenty millions. 
 The work was begun ; but, it is said, the falling 
 in of a part of the foundation determined the 
 Empress against its prosecution. From the 
 state of the roof of the building, where this 
 model is kept, it may be expected that every 
 trace of so magnificent an undertaking will soon 
 be annihilated. Symptoms of decay already 
 appear ; and the architect told us it might soon 
 be expected to fall. When he delivered his 
 report of the dangerous condition of the edifice, 
 the Russians shrugged their shoulders, and said, 
 “ Fall in ! And what if it does ?" 
 
 The plan was, to unite the whole Kremlin, 
 having a circumference of two miles, into one 
 magnificent palace. Its triangular form, and 
 the number of churches it contains, offered 
 
 (1) According to the Voyage de Deux Fratifaw, the model was con- 
 structed by a German joiner of the name of Andrew Wetman, after a 
 design by the architect Bajarwf, pupil of Vail ///. See tome III. p. -D7- 
 
MOSCOW. 167 
 
 some difficulties; but the model was rendered c ^* p - 
 complete. Its fronts are ornamented with ^ — * — ' 
 ranges of beautiful pillars, according to different 
 orders of architecture. Every part of it was 
 finished in the most beautiful manner, even to 
 the fresco painting on the ceilings of the rooms, 
 and the colouring of the various marble columns 
 intended to decorate the interior. It incloses 
 a theatre, and magnificent apartments. Had the 
 work been completed, it would have surpassed 
 the Temple of Solomon, the Propylteum of Amasis, 
 the Villa of Adrian, or the Forum of Trajan. Our 
 friend Camporesi spoke of it in terms of equal 
 praise ; but at the same time confessed, that 
 Guarenghi, his countryman, an architect well 
 known for his works in Petersburg, entertained 
 different sentiments. Guarenghi allowed it to be 
 grand, as it must necessarily be, from the magni- 
 tude of the design ; but thought it too much orna- 
 mented, and too heavy in many of its parts. 
 
 The architecture exhibited in different parts 
 of the Kremlin, in its palaces and churches, is “ r c ® m °^ th * 
 unlike any thing seen in Europe. It is difficult 
 to say from what country it has been principally 
 derived. The architects were generally Ita- 
 lians 8 ; but the style is Tartarian, Indian, Chinese, 
 and Gothic: — here a pagoda, there an arcane! 
 
 (2) Solarius of Milan was principally employed. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 in some parts richness, and even elegance : in 
 others, barbarism and decay. Taken altogether, 
 it is a mixed scene of magnificence and ruin : 
 old buildings repaired, and modern structures 
 not completed ; half-open vaults, and mouldering 
 walls, and empty caves, amidst white-washed 
 brick buildings, and towers, and churches, with 
 glittering, gilded, or painted domes. In the 
 midst of these crowded structures, some devo- 
 tees are daily seen entering a little mean sanc- 
 tuary, more like a stable than a church. This, 
 they tell you, is the first place of Christian wor- 
 ship erected in Moscow. It was -originally con- 
 structed of the trunks of trees, felled upon the 
 spot, at the foundation of the city ; but now it 
 consists of brick-work which has been put to- 
 gether in imitation of the original wooden church. 
 Its antiquity cannot be great. According to ac- 
 counts published in our own country 1 , the whole 
 city of Moscow was burned by the Tahtcirs of 
 the Crimea, on the 24th of May 1571 ; and the 
 old wooden church was probably then de- 
 stroyed. We entered this building during the 
 celebration of divine service: a priest, with 
 true Stentorian lungs, was reading from a selec- 
 tion of the Gospels to the people. There is 
 nothing within the structure worth notice. 
 
 (l) Letter of Richard Uscombc to Henry Lane. Hakluyt , vol. I. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 The view of Moscow, from a terrace in the 
 Kremlin, near the spot where the artillery is 
 preserved, would afford a fine subject for a 
 Panorama. The number of magnificent build- 
 ings, the domes, the towers, and spires, filling 
 all the prospect, make it, perhaps, one ot the 
 most extraordinary sights in Europe. All the 
 wretched hovels, and miserable wooden build- 
 ings, which appear in passing through the streets, 
 are lost in the vast assemblage of magnificent 
 edifices : among these, the Foundling Hospital is 
 particularly conspicuous. Below the walls of 
 the Kremlin, the Moscva, already become a river 
 of importance, is seen flowing towards the 
 Volga. The new promenade forming on its 
 banks, immediately beneath the fortress, is a 
 superb work, and promises to rival the famous 
 quay at Petersburg: it is paved with large flags ; 
 and is continued from the Stone Bridge, to 
 another, which is called the Moscva hi idge ; being 
 fenced with a light but strong iron palisade, and 
 stone pillars, executed in a very good taste. 
 A flight of stairs leads from this walk to the 
 river, where the ceremony of the Benediction of 
 the Water takes place at an earlier season of the 
 year. Another flight of wooden steps leads 
 through the walls of the Kremlin to an area 
 within the fortress. 
 
170 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap. One day, ascending by this staircase, we found 
 ■ _ - j all the churches in the Kremlin open, and a 
 
 iC'lin. prodigious concourse of people assembled at 
 Slim ' the celebration of the Great Festival of the 
 Ascension. It is difficult to describe the scenes 
 exhibited within these buildings during festi- 
 vals. We were carried in by a crowd which 
 rushed forward like a torrent, and, being lilted 
 by it from the ground, beheld, as we entered, a 
 throng of devotees, in which there was danger of 
 being pressed to death : all present were in 
 motion, crossing themselves ', bowing their 
 heads, and struggling who should first kiss the 
 consecrated pictures. The bodies of Saints were, 
 as usual, exposed ; and we were shewn, by the 
 attending priests, some wood of £ the true Cross.' 
 Women, with tears streaming from their eyes, 
 lifted up their infants, and taught them to 
 embrace the feet and hands of the images. 
 Observing a crowd particularly eager to kiss the 
 scull of an incorruptible saint, we asked a priest, 
 in Latin, whose body the sepulchre contained. 
 “ Whence are you," said he, “ that you know not the 
 Tomb of St. Demetrius ?” 
 
 Cl) The Russians cross themselves first on the Jorekcad, then on the 
 breast, then on the right shoulder, then on the left shoulder; thereby 
 completing the figure or a cross. This ceremony is performed with the 
 thumb, the first, and the middle finger . the three fingers signifying the 
 Trinity. 
 
CHAP. VIII. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Order of the Maltese Cross— Minerals of Count Golovkin 
 — Pictures — Antiquities — Shells — Gallery of Galitzin 
 Library of Botterline — Botanic Garden — Philosophical 
 Instruments — Other Collections — Stupendous objects of 
 Natural History — English Horse-Dealers — Public 
 Baths : their mode of use, and national importance 
 — Foundling Hospital. 
 
 Since the Emperor Paul was made Grand 
 Master of Malta, the Order of the Cross became 
 one of the most fashionable in Russia. It was 
 
 CHAT. 
 
 VIII, 
 
 Order of 
 the Maltese 
 Cross. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 1/2 
 
 chap, not possible to mix in company, without seeing 
 ■ - t - i many persons adorned with the badge of the 
 
 knights. The price of it, when purchased' of 
 the Crown, was three hundred peasants. In 
 the changes befalling Orders, as well as Govern- 
 ments, that which has happened to this class 
 of society is worthy of admiration. Formerly, 
 the oath taken, upon admission to the fraternity, 
 was a declaration of poverty, chastity , and obe- 
 dience. What the nature of the oath now is, 
 we did not learn ; but the opposite qualifications 
 in candidates for the Holy Cross were manifest. 
 The extravagance of the Russian nobility has 
 no example. They talk of twenty and thirty 
 thousand roubles as other nations do of their 
 meanest coin ; but those sums are rarely paid 
 in cash: the disbursement is made in fur- 
 
 niture, horses, carriages, watches, snuff-boxes, 
 rings, and wearing-apparel. 
 
 Minerals of Visiting the mineralogical cabinet of Count 
 
 GMin. Golovkin with a dealer in minerals, he informed 
 us that the arts and sciences obtained true 
 
 (1) As wo were informed .—Mr. Heber states it at twelve hundred 
 roubles . 
 
 “ At present, indeed, there is a new method of acquiring rank. 
 Persons who have not served either in a civil or military capacity, may, 
 for twelve hundred roubles , purchase a Cross of Malta ; but this is con- 
 sidered as no very proud distinction.** Heber' s MS, Journal • 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 patronage only in Moscow. “ In England, said 
 he, “ it does not answer to offer fine specimens 
 of Natural History for sale; we get more money, 
 even for the minerals of Siberia, in Moscotv than 
 in London .” We found a very practical illus- 
 tration of his remark, in the contents of one 
 small drawer, which was opened for us, con- 
 sisting only of forty-three specimens, and which 
 had cost the Count two thousand pounds 
 sterling. The substances were certainly rare, 
 but by no means adequate to such an enormous 
 price. Some of them had been purchased in 
 London, at the sale of Monsieur de Calonne's 
 Cabinet. A fine mineral, as well as a fine 
 picture, will often make the tour of Europe ; 
 and may be seen in London, Paris, and Petersburg , 
 in the course of the same year. 
 
 Among the rarest of Count Golovkins minerals, 
 were, a specimen of the black sulphuret of silvei , 
 crystallized in cubes, for which alone he paid 
 fifteen hundred roubles ; auriferous native silver ; 
 the largest specimen which perhaps exists of 
 the red Siberian tourmaline 8 ; galena, almost 
 
 (2) Perhaps it is the same now exhibited in the Gardens of Natural 
 History at Paris. Since this was written, 1 have seen a specimen 
 much larger, in Mr. Granite’ s splendid Collection. It was a present 
 from the King of Ava to Captain Symes, and is nearly as big as a 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 174 
 
 chap, malleable, a substance described by Le Sage; 
 
 , X / beautiful specimen of native gold from P eru 3 
 muriate of silver ; crystals of tin oxide, as big 
 as walnuts ; a singular crystallization of car- 
 bonated lime, having assumed the shape of a 
 heart, and therefore called heart spar ; very large 
 octahedral crystals, exhibiting the primary form 
 of fluat of lime; the Siberian emerald, tra- 
 versing prisms of rock crystal ; Peruvian emerald 
 in its matrix; Chrysoprase ; Pallas's native iron; 
 beautiful crystals of chromate and of phosphate 
 of lead ; native antimony ; a specimen of rock 
 crystal, so filled with water, that, when turned 
 in the hand, drops were seen moving in all 
 directions; — the stone called Venus hairs, or 
 titanium oxide in rock crystal ; — and that beau- 
 tiful mineral the red antimonial, or ruby silver, in 
 fine distinct prisms, lying upon calcareous spar. 
 
 The Museum of this nobleman contained other 
 objects of curiosity besides cabinets of Natural 
 History. It was rich in valuable pictures; in 
 many of the most interesting relics of anti- 
 quity, particularly Grecian vases; and it con- 
 tained a library of books of the highest value. 
 Count Golovkin was one of the very few, among 
 the Russian connoisseurs, who really possessed 
 taste. There was proof of this in every selection 
 he made; whether of books, antiquities, pictures, 
 
MOSCOW. 175 
 
 minerals, or works of modern art ; for whatever 
 
 he had collected, was, in its kind, well chosen. 1 * < 
 
 The caprice, indeed, might be lamented which 
 induced him to change, so frequently as he did, 
 what he had once selected ; instead of allowing 
 the acquisition to remain, as a monument of 
 his genius, for the use and instruction of his 
 posterity. 
 
 Among the pictures, we noticed a very cele- Picture*, 
 brated work of Van der JVerf : this had been 
 formerly purchased by the author from Monsieur 
 de Calonne's Collection in London, for an English 
 nobleman. It was that highly-finished piece 
 which represents “ the Daughters of Lot giving 
 wine to their Father.” Other travellers may 
 perhaps at this time find the same picture in 
 Madrid. That unrivalled painting of Gerhard 
 Douw, in which he has represented himself as 
 an artist drawing by candle-light, was also in 
 this collection : it cost the Count two thousand 
 four hundred roubles. The rest were the pro- 
 ductions of Leonardo da Vinci, Sasso Ferralo, 
 Lanfranc, Teniers, Vandyke, and other eminent 
 masters. 
 
 In the cabinet of antiquities was an antient lyre 
 of bronze, complete in all its parts, and perhaps 
 the only one ever found. It was modelled by 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 176 
 
 CHAP. Camporesi, in wood. A vase of lazuli te was 
 . Vi lL , shewn, as having been found in Herculaneum, 
 which is very doubtful. It is common, in col- 
 lections of this nature, to attribute the antiqui- 
 ties of other cities of Magna Grcecia, and even 
 modern alabaster vases, to Herculaneum ; al- 
 though every thing found in the excavations 
 there be rigidly reserved for the Museum ot his 
 Sicilian Majesty. Greek vases, from sepulchres 
 in Italy, are very often called Herculanean ; 
 but no such works in terra-cotta have yet 
 been found there. The rarest antiquities in 
 Count Golovkin s Collection were vessels ol 
 antient glass, at least twelve inches in diameter. 
 There was one of these, standing near a window, 
 filled with earth, in which had been planted 
 a Dutch tulip ; of course, it was liable to be 
 broken every instant. Vases, on which were 
 represented subjects illustrating the eailiest 
 ages of Grecian History, were seen lying on the 
 floor, like the neglected toys of children. No 
 person had exceeded the liberality of Count 
 Golovkin, in making any addition to his Collec- 
 tion; but no one became sooner wearied by pos- 
 session. These x.uf/,7)Xic& were therefore rathei 
 objects of his caprice than of his study, and 
 have probably by this time found their way to 
 other cities of Europe. Enormous sums had 
 been lavished to procure the black porcelain ol 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 1 77 
 
 Japan ; but when we arrived, many beautiful c ^ p - 
 vessels, made of this porcelain, were also filled ' — * — > 
 with earth and flowers. Several fine busts, from 
 the celebrated cabinet of Count Caylus, adorned 
 the apartments : also a marble vase which be- 
 longed to the famous Mengs, and had been 
 brought from Rome to Moscoiv, by the Grand- 
 chamberlain Suvalof. We do not pretend to 
 the smallest knowledge of conchology : it might 
 therefore astonish us more than others, to see a 
 single shell, called the Great Hammer, of no 
 external beauty, but shaped like the instrument 
 of that name, for which the late Mr. Forster of 
 London received of the Count one thousand 
 roubles'. 
 
 After a particular description of Count Golov- 
 kins Museum, it is unnecessary to mention those 
 of less note in Moscow. We shall therefore pass 
 hastily over a few of the principal Collections. 
 
 The gallery of pictures of the Grand-chamberlain o jjtar * 
 Galitzin was the most extensive: the palace 
 itself being highly magnificent; and a set of 
 stately apartments, terminated by a vast gallery, 
 was entirely filled with paintings. In so vast 
 
 (l) “ He furnishes his closet first, and fills 
 
 The crouded shelves with rarities of shells : 
 
 Adds Orient pearls, which from the conchs he drew. 
 
 And all the sparkling stones of various hue.” 
 
 Dryden. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, an assemblage, there were doubtless many in- 
 different productions; but, among them, some 
 paintings of unequalled merit, and especially one 
 of the finest works of Salvator Rosa. The sub- 
 ject represented the martyrdom of St. Sebastian ; 
 and it had been executed with all his sublimity 
 and energy. The gallery was chiefly filled with 
 pictures by the Flemish Masters. 
 
 Library of The library, botanic garden, and museum ot 
 BMc,hnc ' Count Bolter line, ranked among the finest sights 
 in Europe. That nobleman had not only col- 
 lected the rarest copies of all the Classic Authors , 
 but of some of them, particularly of Virgil, he 
 had so many editions, that they were sufficient 
 alone to constitute a library. His books were 
 not kept in one particular apartment, but they 
 occupied a number of different rooms. They 
 were all bound beneath his own roof; affording 
 sufficient employment for several workmen, 
 retained constantly in the house for this purpose. 
 He had almost all the Editiones Frincipes ; and 
 his collection of books printed during th q fifteenth 
 century amounted to near six thousand volumes. 
 According to Orlandi 1 , the number ot works 
 
 ( 1 ) Origine * Progressi della Stampa, da Peregrin. Anton. Orlandi. 
 nonoma', 1722. The author found Orlandi'* hand-writing, and the 
 signature of his name, in a curious edition of Suetonius, in theMostyn 
 Library, North Wales. See the account of it m Pennant s History of 
 IVhiteforcl and Holywell, p. 83. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 179 
 
 printed during that period amounted to one 
 thousand three hundred and three. It is there- 
 fore probable, that nearly all of them were 
 contained in Count Bolter lines Collection. The 
 catalogue of this part of his library filled two 
 folio volumes. He procured from Paris the 
 celebrated work of Theodore de Bn/, a collection 
 of voyages, with beautiful wood-cuts : and had 
 been at infinite pains to obtain from all countries 
 a complete series of Ecclesiastical annals ; these 
 already amounted to forty volumes in folio. 
 
 This immense library was divided into six 
 distinct classes. His pictures were not so 
 numerous ; but they were well chosen. 
 
 The botanic garden, (botany being his fa- Botanic 
 vourite pursuit,) contained a green-house, per- Garden - 
 haps unequalled in the world. At one end of 
 it was a small library of botanical works: 
 here he had the advantage of studying with the 
 living specimens before him. But the most 
 extraordinary circumstance was, that we 
 found the plants of the frigid zone, and of 
 the warmest climates, flourishing in greater 
 beauty than we had seen them possess in a 
 state of nature. They were more perfect, 
 because they were preserved from all external 
 injury, and were at the same time heajthy. 
 
 We asked him how such a variety of plants, 
 
 n 2 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VIII. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 requiring such different culture, situation, and 
 temperature, could be thus nourished beneath 
 the same roof. He said that the principal 
 fault among gardeners consisted in their mode 
 of watering; that, for his part, he performed 
 almost all the work with his own hands; 
 acknowledging, that, although botanists were 
 much surprised by the appearance of lus plants, 
 he was himself indebted, for all the knowledge 
 he had acquired, to our countryman Miller, 
 whose works were always near him. In his 
 garden, the plants of Siberia flourished in the 
 open air. The Spircca crenata, and the Rosa 
 Justriaca, or Persian Rose, were in full bloom on 
 the twenty-fifth of May. Almost all the fruit- 
 trees in Moscow had perished during the former 
 winter. The Count smiled when we spoke of 
 the facility with which he might obtain the 
 Siberian plants. “ I receive them all,” said he, 
 “ from England: nobody here will be at the 
 trouble to collect either seed or plants ; and I 
 am compelled to send to your country for things 
 that grow wild in my own.'’ 
 
 In addition to the extraordinary collection 
 already noticed, belonging to this nobleman, 
 we were shewn another set of apartments filled 
 with all sorts of philosophical instruments. This 
 collection alone appeared sufficient to have em- 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 181 
 
 ployed the time and fortune of a single individual. V iin 
 
 It consisted of electrical apparatus, telescopes, the ' 
 whole furniture of a chemical laboratory, models, 
 pieces of mechanism, the most curious and ex- 
 pensive balances, and almost every instrument 
 of the useful Arts 1 . 
 
 The collection of minerals, shells, birds, Jishes, Batumi 
 quadrupeds, and the cabinet ot medals of I aul 
 Gregorovilz Demidof, had been considered by 
 travellers more worth seeing than any other 
 Museum in Moscow *. We did not obtain admis- 
 sion. His library contained five thousand 
 volumes, chiefly on subjects of Natural History. 
 
 The minerals of Prince Urusof, and of Prince Paul 
 Galitzin, were of the highest beauty and mag- 
 nificence. The former of these princes gave five 
 thousand roubles for a single specimen. But 
 among all the surprising articles in Natural His- 
 tory that we saw in Moscow, the most worthy ot 
 admiration were two mineralogical specimens, 
 the one of Malachite, and the other ot Siberian 
 emerald, in the audience-chamber of Prince 
 
 ll) “ To tell their costly furniture were long ; 
 
 The summer's day would end before the song ; 
 
 To purchase but the tenth of all their store, 
 
 Would make the mighty Persian monarch poor. 
 
 Yet what I can, I will.” Pryden. 
 
 (2) Voyage de Deux Francis, tom. III. p. 327.': 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 182 
 
 chap. Alexander Galitzin. These were placed alone, 
 
 ■ independent of any cabinet, upon two pedestals, 
 
 opposite to a throne, whereon the Prince and 
 Princess sat, on days of ceremony. His Excel- 
 lency condescended to exhibit them to us. 
 They were far beyond all estimation ; because 
 the value of such things depends entirely upon 
 the power and wealth which might enable a 
 Prince or a Sovereign to obtain them. The 
 first, or the mass of green carbonated copper, com- 
 monly called Malachite, was not only the largest 
 example of that substance ever discovered, but 
 it was also the most beautiful. It was found in 
 the Siberian mines; and in every circumstance of 
 form and colour, to interest a naturalist, or to 
 gratify the avarice of the lapidary, it had never 
 been surpassed. Its delicate surface, ot the 
 most beautiful silky lustre, exhibited all those 
 mammillary nodes and zones which denote the 
 stalactite origin of the mineral. Its interior, al- 
 though exquisitely variegated, was entire and 
 compact ; and, for the mere purpose of cutting 
 into plates, would have been inestimable in the 
 hands of jewellers. The weight of this enormous 
 mass must have been at least a ton. While we 
 remained in the city, a dealer offered six thousand 
 roubles for it ; but the prince refused to sell it. 
 The companion of this extraordinary product of 
 the mineral kingdom, ot equal size, was not less 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 183 
 
 wonderful : it was a mass of numberless Siberian 
 emeralds, lying in their natural repository ; this '■ 
 they traversed in all directions ; exhibiting the 
 most beautiful crystallization that can be con- 
 ceived, and every possible diversity of size, 
 shape, and colour. 
 
 Prince Fiazemskoys collection of the current 
 coin of the world was too remarkable to be 
 passed over without notice. Prince Alexander 
 Scherbatof had also a magnificent cabinet of 
 Natural History. 
 
 The number of English horse-dealers, and 
 English grooms, in Moscoiv, was, at this time, 
 very great. They were in high favour among 
 the nobles. The Governor of the city was con- 
 sidered particularly skilful in choosing horses. 
 It was not unusual to hear the nobles repeat 
 the pedigree of their favourites, as if on an 
 English race-course : “ This,'’ said they, “ was 
 the son of Eclipse; dam by such a one; grand- 
 dam by another and so on, through a list of 
 names taught by their grooms, but having no 
 more real reference to their cattle than to the 
 moon. English saddles and bridles also sold at 
 very advanced prices. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 English 
 
 Horse- 
 
 Dealers. 
 
 Passing the public streets of the city, a 
 
184 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAl’. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Public 
 
 Baths. 
 
 number of men and women are often seen stark 
 naked, lounging about before the public baths, 
 and talking together, without the smallest sense 
 of shame, or of the indecency of the exhibition. 
 In many parts of Russia, as in Lapland, the 
 males and females bathe promiscuously. It is 
 well known that a clergyman's daughter, with 
 unsuspecting simplicity, did the honours of the 
 bath for Acerhi, at Kemi, in the north of the 
 Gulph of Bothnia' . As soon as the inhabitants 
 of these northern nations have endured the 
 suffocating heat of their vapour baths , which is 
 so great that Englishmen would not conceive it 
 possible to exist an instant in such temperature, 
 they stand naked, covered with profuse perspi- 
 ration, cooling themselves in the open air ; in 
 summer they plunge into cold water; during 
 winter they roll about in snow ; without sus- 
 taining any injury, or ever catching cold. When 
 the Russians leave a bath of this kind, they 
 moreover drink copious draughts ot mead, as 
 cold as it can be procured. These practices, 
 which would kill men of other nations, seemed 
 to delight them, and to add strength to their 
 constitutions. 
 
 (1) See Acerbi’s Travels, vol. I. p.338. Land. 1802. where this 
 scene is described. The author has often heard Signor Acerhi relate 
 the same circumstance, during the time they were together in Sweden * 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 185 
 
 Being troubled with rheumatic pain, brought ™™ p - 
 
 on by a sudden change of weather, (the thermo- . — 
 
 meter falling, in one day, from 84° of Fahrenheit, 
 nearly to the freezing point,) the author was 
 persuaded to try a Russian bath. Nothing can 
 be more filthy or more revolting than one of 
 these places, for they are commonly filled with 
 vermin. He had been recommended, however, 
 to use the Georgian Bath, situate in the Sloboda, 
 or suburbs : this being described as the best in 
 Moscow. It required more courage to enter this 
 den than many of our countrymen would exert 
 for a similar purpose. The building was a small 
 wooden hut : at one end of it there was a recess, 
 black and fearful as the entrance to Tartarus. 
 
 Two naked figures, with long beards, conducted 
 him to this spot; where pointing to a plank 
 covered by a single sheet, with a pillow, they 
 told him to deposit his clothes there, and to 
 repose, if he thought proper; but, upon the 
 sheet, a number of cockroaches and crickets had 
 usurped the only spot where a person might 
 venture to sit down. As soon as he was un- 
 dressed, they led him, through a gloomy passage, 
 into a chamber called the bath ; the ceremonies 
 of which place will now be particularly described. 
 
 Upon the left hand were cisterns of water ; 
 and upon the edges of those cisterns appeared 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 a row of polished brass vessels. Towards the 
 right was a stove ; and, in the middle of the 
 room, a step to a platform elevated above the 
 floor. The hot vapour being collected near the 
 roof, the more the bather ascends, the greater 
 is the degree of heat to which he is exposed. 
 A choice of temperature is therefore offered to 
 him. On each side of the platform was a stove, 
 in shape exactly resembling the tombs in our 
 church-yards. The upper surface of each stove 
 was covered with a bed of reeds ; and over the 
 reeds was placed a sheet. The author was 
 directed to mount upon one of these stoves, 
 and to extend himself upon the sheet : having 
 done this, he found himself nearly elevated 
 to the roof of the bath, and the heat of the 
 ascending vapour threw him immediately into 
 a most profuse perspiration. The sensation 
 resembled what he had formerly experienced 
 in a subterraneous cavern, called the Bath of 
 Nero, upon the coast of Bala, near Naples. He 
 neglected to take a thermometer with him on 
 this occasion ; but the ordinary temperature of 
 a Russian bath is well known: it varies (ac- 
 cording to Storch') from 104 ° to 1 22° of Fahren- 
 heit ; and sometimes, upon the upper stages near 
 
 (l) Tableau de V Empire de Russic, tom. f. p. 330. The degrees of 
 temperature are estimated by Storch according to the scale of Reaumur. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 187 
 
 the roof, it is twenty degrees above fever heat 0 . c ” 1 f 1 P ' 
 Thus situate, a man began to rub his skin with ' 
 a woollen cloth, until the exterior surface of it 
 peeled off. As soon as he had finished this 
 operation with the woollen cloth, he was desired 
 to descend; and then several vessels of warm 
 water were poured upon his head, whence it fell 
 all over his body. He was next placed upon 
 the floor, and the assistant washed his hair, 
 scratching his head in all parts. Afterwards, 
 he again made him ascend the stove ; where 
 once more being stretched at length, a copious 
 lather of soap was prepared, and his body was 
 again rubbed: after this he was made to descend 
 a second time, and was again soused with 
 vessels of water. He was then desired to ex- 
 tend himself on the stove for the third time, and 
 informed that the greatest degree of heat would 
 now be given. To prepare for this, they cau- 
 tioned him to he with his lace downwards, and 
 not to raise his head. Birch boughs were now 
 brought, with their leaves on, and dipped in 
 soap and hot water : with these they began to 
 scrub him afresh : at the same time, some hot 
 water being cast upon red-hot cannon-balls and 
 upon the principal stove, such a vapour passed 
 all over him, that it came like a stream of fire. 
 
 (-2) E<iual to 132° of Fahrenheit. 
 
188 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 ■~ v ~ ~ 
 
 National 
 Importance 
 of Public 
 Baths. 
 
 If lie ventured to raise his head but for an 
 instant, and draw in his breath, it seemed like 
 inhaling flames. It was impossible to endure 
 this for any length of time; therefore finding 
 himself unable to cry out, he forced his way 
 down from the stove, and was conducted to the 
 lower part of the room : here being seated upon 
 the floor, and the doors being opened, he soon 
 recovered sufficiently to walk out ol the bath. 
 
 Eminent physicians have endeavoured to draw 
 the attention of the English Government to the 
 importance of public baths, and ot countenancing 
 their use by every aid of example and of encou- 
 ragement. While we wonder at their prevalence 
 among all the Eastern and Northern nations, may 
 we not lament that they are so little known in our 
 own country ? We might, perhaps, find reagon 
 to allow, that erysipelas, surfeit, rheumatism, 
 colds, and many other evils, especially cutaneous 
 and nervous disorders, would be alleviated, if 
 not prevented, by a proper attention to bathing. 
 The inhabitants of countries where the hath is 
 constantly used, have recourse to it, in the full 
 confidence of being able to remove such com- 
 plaints ; and they are rarely disappointed. In 
 England, baths are considered only as articles of 
 luxury ; yet throughout the vast empire of 
 Russia, through all Finland, Lapland, Sweden, 
 
 3 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 189 
 
 and Norway, there is no cottage so poor, no hut f y]f r p ' 
 
 so destitute, but it possesses its vapour hath -, ' * — 
 
 whither all the family resort every Saturday at the 
 least, and every day in case of sickness. Lady 
 Mary Wortley Montague, in despite of all the 
 prejudices then prevalent in England against 
 inoculation, introduced this blessing from 
 Turkey. And if some other patriotic individual, 
 of equal influence, would endeavour to establish 
 throughout Great Britain the use of warm and 
 vapour baths, the inconveniences of our climate 
 might be done away. Perhaps, at a future pe- 
 riod, donations for public baths may become as 
 frequent as the voluntary subscriptions whereby 
 hospitals are maintained ; and a grateful people 
 may commemorate the service they have ren- 
 dered to society by annual contributions for their 
 support. But when we recollect that the illus- 
 trious Bacon in vain lamented the disuse of baths 
 among Europeans, we have little reason to indulge 
 the expectation. At the same time, an addi- 
 tional testimony to their salutary effects, in 
 affording longevity and vigorous health to a 
 people otherwise liable to mortal diseases from 
 their rigorous climate and unwholesome diet, 
 may conduce towards their introduction. Among 
 the Antients, baths were public edifices, under the 
 immediate inspection of the Government : they 
 were considered as institutions founded in abso- 
 
190 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Foundling 
 
 Hospital. 
 
 lute necessity, and unavoidably due to decency 
 and to cleanliness. Rome, under her Emperors, 
 numbered nearly a thousand such buildings; and 
 these, besides their utility, were regarded as 
 master-pieces of architectural skill and of sump- 
 tuous decoration. In Russia, they have only 
 vapour baths ; and these are, for the most part, 
 in wretched wooden hovels. If wood be de- 
 ficient, they are formed of mud, or scooped in the 
 banks of rivers and lakes : but in the palaces of 
 the nobles, however they may vary in the 
 splendour of their materials, the plan of their 
 construction is always the same. 
 
 This universal custom of the bath may be 
 mentioned as an example of the resemblance be- 
 tween the Muscovites and more Oriental people : 
 but there are many other ; such, for instance, as 
 the ceremony of holding and tearing the hair at 
 the death of relatives ; the practice among the 
 nobles of employing slaves to rub the soles of their 
 feet, in order to induce sleep ; and the custom 
 of maintaining buffoons, whose occupation it is 
 to relate strange and extravagant tales for a 
 similar purpose. 
 
 As a conclusion to this chapter, a few words 
 may be added concerning the state of the Found- 
 ling Hospital ; as the Institution of that name in 
 
MOSCOW. 191 
 
 Petersburg excites the interest and attention of Sun!*" 
 all foreigners ; although it be but a branch of the v ' — ' s ' 
 
 more magnificent establishment of the same 
 nature in the east angle of the Khitciy Gorod at 
 Moscow. Both the one and the other have been 
 sufficiently described by preceding authors'. 
 
 Of the latter, it will therefore only be necessary 
 to add, that, in the space of twenty years, prior to 
 the year 1780, it had received no less than thirty- 
 seven thousand six hundred and seven infants. 
 
 Of this number, one thousand and twenty had 
 left the asylum ; and there remained six thou- 
 sand and eighty at that time®. In 1 7 92 , the 
 number of children in the house amounted to two 
 thousand; and about three thousand belonging 
 
 (]) Since the foundation of these two establishments, similar insti- 
 tutions have taken place in other towns of Russia: such as Tula, 
 Kaluga, Jaroslnf, Casan, &c. 
 
 (2) Starch’s Tableau de Rus.sk, tom. i. p. 321. Upon the great mor- 
 tality which this statement allows, the author makes the following 
 judicious remarks : €< Si cette note, adoptee d apr&s un ecrivain tr£s- 
 vf-ridique sur d’autres points, est exacte, la perte que cet etablissement 
 a essuyde par la mortality des enfans, est sans doute tri!s-consid<5rable : 
 raais elle le paroitrait beaucoup moins, si l'on examinait le nomhre de 
 eeux qui sont morts au moment d'y etre recus, aussi bien que de ceux 
 qui y ont porte le germe de leur destruction. Pour determiner l’dtat 
 exact de la mortality de eette maison, 11 faudrait savoir le nombre 
 d’enfans parfaitement sains qui y sont entres ; car ceux que Ton porte 
 \ l’hftpital, aussitftt. aprfis qu’ils ont etc baptises, ne peuvent <?tre regardes 
 que comma des victimes devouees it la mort : il y aurait done la plus 
 grande injustice a attribuer leur perte it un etablissement rempli 
 d’humanite, qui enricbitannuellcment l’etat d un nomhre toujours plus- 
 considerable de ciloyens sains, actifs, et industrieux.” 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 192 
 
 Chap, to the establishment were at nurse in the coun- 
 ■ try. Every peasant entrusted with the care of 
 
 an infant had a monthly allowance of a rouble and 
 a half Every month, such of the children as 
 have been vaccinated are sent into the country, 
 where they remain until the age ot five years. 
 Before the introduction of vaccination, the mor- 
 tality was much greater among them than it 
 is at present, although they were inoculated for 
 the small-pox 1 . 
 
 (1 )Heber's MS. Journal. 
 
 / 
 
CHAP. IX. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Visit to the Archbishop of Moscow — his Conversation — 
 
 Convent of Nicoll na Perrera — Funeral of Prince 
 Galitzin — Stalls for Fruit and Food — Sparrow Hill — 
 
 Public Morals — Banquets of the Nobles — Barbarous 
 Etiquette observed at Russian Tables — Anecdote oj two 
 English Gentlemen — Precautions to be used in travel- 
 ling — Dealers in Virtu — Adventurers and Swindlers — 
 
 Immense Wealth of the Nobles — Condition of the 
 Peasants. 
 
 A curious contrast to the splendour in which chap. 
 we had hitherto beheld Plato, archbishop of , 
 Moscow, was offered, during a visit we made to J^hbTshep 
 him at the Convent of Nicoll na Perrera, a semi- of Moscou '- 
 
 VOL. i. 
 
 o 
 
J94 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, nary for young priests near the city. We had 
 , long wished for an opportunity of conversing 
 with this remarkable man. He was preceptor 
 to the Emperor Paul ; and is known to the 
 world by his correspondence with Monsieui 
 Convent of Upon our arrival at the convent, we 
 
 Perrera. were told he was then walking in a small gar- 
 den, the care of which constituted his principal 
 pleasure; and the employment characterized 
 the simplicity and the innocence of his life. As 
 we entered the garden, we found him seated 
 upon a turf bank, beneath the windows of the 
 refectory, attended by a bishop, an old man his 
 vicar, the abb6 of the monastery, and some 
 other of the monks. We could scarcely believe 
 our eyes, when they told us it was Plato : for 
 although we had often seen him in his archiepis- 
 copal vestments, his rural dress had made such 
 an alteration, that we did not know him. He 
 
 was habited in a striped silk bed-gown, with a 
 
 night-cap upon his head like the silk nets com- 
 monly worn by Italian postillions ; having also 
 a pair of woollen stockings upon his legs, the 
 feet of which were of coarse linen, fastened on 
 with twine in a most uncouth manner. He was 
 without shoes, but a pair of yellow slippers lay 
 at some distance. By his side, upon the bank, 
 was placed his broad-brimmed straw hat, offering 
 a correct model of the Athenian pilous, and such 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 195 
 
 as the Patriarchs of the Greek Church have c ^ p ‘ 
 
 always worn : the shepherdesses of the Alps ' . — 
 
 now wear the same kind of hat. In the hat-band 
 he had placed a bunch of withered flowers. His 
 white beard, added to the mildness of his ani- 
 mated countenance, gave to his features a most 
 pleasing expression. He desired to know who 
 we were ; and being answered, Englishmen ; 
 
 “ What !” said he, “ all Englishmen P I wonder 
 what your countrymen can find sufficiently 
 interesting in Russia, to bring you so far from 
 home ; and in such times as these P” But having 
 made this observation in the French language, 
 he looked cautiously around him, and began to 
 ask the monks, severally, whether they under- 
 stood French. Finding them perfectly ignorant 
 of that language, he bade us to sit by him; 
 while, the rest forming a circle near him, he 
 entertained us with a conversation, in which 
 there was enough of science, of wit, and of free- 
 dom, to astonish any traveller, in such a country, 
 and at such a period. Memory has scarcely 
 retained even that part of it which concerned 
 the manners of his countrymen. 
 
 “Well,” said he, “you thought me perhaps a 
 curiosity; and you find me as naturally disposed 
 for observation as you could wish” (pointing to 
 his woollen stockings and his strange dress), 
 
 o 2 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 196 
 
 chap. << an old man bending with years and infirmi- 
 ■ IX : ties.” We replied, that, on the night of the 
 
 Ceremony of the Resurrection, we had the honour 
 to see him in his greatest splendour, in the cathe- 
 dral of the Kremlin. “ And what did you think 
 of that ceremony?” said he. We answered, 
 that “ we considered it as one of the most 
 solemn we had ever witnessed ; not excepting 
 even that of the Benediction at Rome j” “ — and 
 interesting?” added the archbishop. We assured 
 him that we considered it as highly inter- 
 esting: at this he burst into a fit of laughter, 
 holding his sides, and saying, “ We had lost a 
 night’s rest to attend the ceremony of a religion 
 we did not profess, and called it interesting." 
 
 We accompanied him round his garden, 
 admiring the beauty of the situation, and the 
 serenity of the climate. “But do you, said 
 he, “prefer our climate to yours?” We told 
 him, that we had found the Russian climate 
 severe, but the cold weather in winter not 
 attended with so much humidity as in England ; 
 that the atmosphere was clear and dry — 
 “ O yes,” said he, “ very dry indeed! and it has, 
 in consequence, dried up all our fruit-trees. 
 
 Afterwards, he inquired whither we were 
 going : and being told to Kuban Tartary and to 
 
 I 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 197 
 
 Constantinople “ God preserve you!” he ex- c ®£ p - 
 claimed, “ what a journey ! But nothing is -* — 
 
 difficult to Englishmen; they traverse all the 
 regions of the earth. My brother,” continued 
 he, “ was a traveller, and educated in your 
 country, at Oxford ; but I have never been any- 
 where, except at Petersburg and Moscow. I should 
 have been delighted in travelling, if I had en- 
 joyed the opportunity ; for books of Travels are 
 my favourite reading. I have lately read,” and 
 the significant smile by which the words were 
 accompanied could not be misunderstood 1 , “ the 
 Voyage of Lord Macartney — He laughed, how- 
 ever, at the result of his brother’s education. 
 
 “ The English” said he, “ taught him to de- 
 claim, in their way: he used to preach his 
 fine flourishing sermons to us Russians; very 
 fine sermons! but they were all translated 
 from the English. Some of your divines write 
 beautifully, but with inconceivable freedom. It 
 was once discussed in an English sermon, 
 Whether a people had power to dethrone their 
 King.” “ Your Eminence may say more,” said 
 one of our party; “ we had once a prelate, 
 who, preaching before his Sovereign, felt himself 
 
 (1) The Russians exulted very much in the failure of Lord Macart- 
 ney's embassy to China : and I believe it is now generally known, that 
 our want of success was owing to the prompt manoeuvres of the Court 
 of Petersburg , with regard to that country. 
 
198 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IX. 
 
 ' — , — 
 
 a t liberty to discuss his conduct to his face. 
 
 “ 1 wish,’' said he, “ we had such a fellow here! ■ 
 but, aware of the interpretation which might 
 be put upon his words, and perhaps not daring 
 to end with them, he added, after a pause, ‘ we 
 would send him, to enjoy the full liberty of preach- 
 ing in the free air of Siberia.” He was much 
 amused by a reply he had once leceived horn 
 an English clergyman, of the factory at Peters- 
 burg, whom he had asked if it was his intention 
 ever to marry. “ If I be fortunate enough to 
 become a bishop,” said the clergyman, “ I shall 
 marry some rich citizen’s daughter, and live 
 at my ease 1 .” 
 
 He complained much of Dutens, for having 
 published his correspondence, without his per- 
 mission; saying, he had therein endeavoured to 
 prove that the Pope was Antichrist; of which he 
 was fully convinced : but that he much feaied 
 the resentment of the Court of Rome. W e told 
 him, we thought his fears might now subside, 
 as that Court was no longer formidable to any 
 one. “ Oh,” said he, “ you do not know its 
 intrigues and artifices: its character resembles 
 that of the antient Romans; patient in conceal- 
 ing malice ; prompt to execute it, when oppor- 
 
 (1) The Priests in the Greek Church are allowed to marry ; hut not 
 the Bishops. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 199 
 
 tunity offers; and always obtaining its point in 
 the end.” He then spoke of Voltaire, and of his 
 correspondence with the late Empress Cathe- 
 rine. “ There was nothing,” said he, “ of which 
 she was so vain, as of that correspondence. 
 
 1 never saw her so gay, and in such high spirits, 
 as when she had to tell me of having received a 
 letter from Voltaire .” 
 
 He conducted us to the apartments of the 
 antient Patriarch, who founded the convent and 
 who built the church ; these he had endeavoured 
 to preserve in their pristine state. They con- 
 sisted of several small vaulted Gothic chambers; 
 now containing the library. We took this oppor- 
 tunity to ask, if any translation of the Classics 
 existed in the Sclavonic language, among the 
 manuscripts dispersed in different libraries of 
 the Russian monasteries. He answered us in 
 the negative, and said they had nothing worth 
 notice until the time of the Patriarch Nicon *. 
 As he was well versed in the Sclavonic, we ques- 
 tioned him concerning its relationship to the 
 Russian. He assured us the two languages 
 were almost the same; that the difference was 
 only a distinction of dialect; and that neither of 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IX. 
 
 (2) The Patriarch Nicon, so illustrious in the Russian History, was 
 born of obscure parents in 1613, ami died in 1681. See Levesque Hitt, 
 tie Russie, tome IV. p.G9. 81. Hamb. Sf Brunswick, 1800. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 them bore the slightest resemblance to the lan- 
 guage of Finland. 
 
 In this convent, one hundred and fifty students 
 are instructed in the Greek and Latin languages, 
 and in rhetoric. After a certain time, they are 
 sent to complete their education in other semi- 
 naries at Moscow. The church is lofty and 
 spacious : the table for the Sacrament, as in all 
 other Russian and . Greek churches, is kept in 
 the Sanctuary, behind the altar, where women 
 are not permitted to enter. The archbishop, 
 who had visited our English church at Petersburg, 
 observed that our table was uncovered, except 
 when the Sacrament was administered ; a degree 
 of economy which he said he was unable to 
 explain consistently with the piety and the 
 liberality of the English nation. What would 
 have been his sentiments, if he had beheld the 
 condition of the Communion tables in some ol our 
 country churches! In Russia, the altar is always 
 covered with the richest cloth, and generally 
 with embroidered velvet. 
 
 of On the twenty-eighth of May, we again saw 
 Plato in great pomp, at the burial of Prince 
 Galitzin, in Moscow. This ceremony was per- 
 formed in a small church near the Mareschal 
 Bridge. The body was laid in a superb crimson 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 201 
 
 coffin, richly embossed with silver, and placed chap. 
 beneath the dome of the church. Upon a throne, ' — y- — 
 raised at the head of the coffin, stood the arch- 
 bishop, who read the service. On each side were 
 ranged the inferior clergy, clothed, as usual, in the 
 most costly robes, bearing in their hands wax ta- 
 pers, and burning incense. This ceremony began 
 at ten in the morning. Having obtained admission 
 to the church, we placed ourselves among the 
 spectators, immediately behind his Eminence. 
 
 The chaunting had a solemn and sublime effect: 
 it seemed as if choristers were placed in the 
 upper part of the dome; and this perhaps was 
 really the case. The words uttered were only 
 a constant repetition of “ Lord have mercy upon 
 us!" or, in Russian 1 , “ Ghospodi pomilui!" When 
 the archbishop turned to give his benediction to 
 all the people, he observed us, and added, in 
 Latin, “ Pax vobiscum!" to the astonishment of 
 the Russians ; who, not comprehending the new 
 words introduced into the service, muttered 
 
 (1) These Russian words are written, in books of good authority, 
 u Ghospodi pomilui /” See Lord Wh ilworth's Account of Russia, p.43. 
 Also XJnivers. Hist. vol. XXXV. p. ISA. But they seem generally pro- 
 nounced Roscpodi pamUa ! The supplication itself was originally de- 
 rived front the Heathen ritual, and, like other parts of our Liturgy, 
 retains a proof of indulgence granted to the prejudices of the Fathers ; 
 some of whom were attached to the forms used in the Pagan Mys- 
 teries. Thus the Priest, before prayer, said “ Lf.t Us pray !” 
 
 And the Kv{is Morn , “ Lord iia vk mercy upon us I” was a part of 
 the Pagan Litany. See Arrian. Epict. /. ii. c.7 , 
 
,Q2 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, among themselves. Incense was then otfeied 
 IX ' , to the pictures and to the people: and, this cere- 
 mony ended, the archbishop read aloud a decla- 
 ration, purporting that the deceased nad died in 
 the true faith; that he had repented of his errors, 
 and that his sins were absolved. Then turning 
 to us, as the paper was placed in the coffin, he 
 said again in Latin, “ This is what all you 
 foreigners call the Passport; and you relate, in 
 your books of Travels, that we believe no soul 
 can go to heaven without it. Now I wish you 
 to understand what it really is; and to explain to 
 your countrymen, upon my authority, that it is 
 nothing more than a declaration or certificate 
 concerning the death of the deceased. Then 
 laughing, he added, “ I suppose you commit all 
 this to paper: and some future day, perhaps, I 
 shall see an engraving of this ceremony, with 
 an old archbishop giving a dead man his pass- 
 port to St. Peter',’ 
 
 ( 1 ) There is a passage in Mr. Weber's Journal very characteristic of 
 this extraordinary man. Mr. Weber, with his friend Mr. Thornton, 
 paid to him a visit in the Convent of Befania; and, in his description 
 of the monastery, I find the following account of the Archbishop. 
 “ The space beneath the rocks is occupied by a small chapel, fur- 
 nished with a stove for winter devotion ; and on the right-hand is a 
 little narrow cell, containing two coffins; one of which is empty, and 
 destined for the present archbishop; the other contains the bones of 
 the Founder of the Monastery, who is regarded as a Saint. The oak 
 coffin was almost bit to pieces by different persons afflicted with the 
 
 tooth- 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 203 
 
 The lid of the coffin being now removed, the 
 body of the Prince was exposed to view; and v. 
 all the relatives, the servants, the slaves, and 
 the other attendants, began the ululation, accord- 
 ing to the custom of the country. Each person, 
 walking round the corpse, made prostration 
 before it, and kissed the lips of the deceased. 
 The venerable figure of an old slave presented 
 a most affecting spectacle. He threw himself 
 flat upon the pavement, with a desperate degree 
 
 tooth-aehe; for which n rub on this board is a specific. Plato laughed 
 as he told us this ; but said, “ As they do it DE bon cieur, I would not 
 undeceive them." This prelate has beeu long very famous in Russia, 
 as a rnau of ability. His piety has been questioned; but from his 
 conversation we drew a very favourable idea of him. Some of his ex- 
 pressions would have rather surprised a very strict religionist; but the 
 frankness and openness of his manners, and the liberality of his sen- 
 timents, pleased us highly. His frankness on subjects of politics was 
 remarkable. The Clergy throughout Russia ave, I believe, inimical to 
 their Government ; they are more connected with the peasants than 
 most other classes of men, and arc strongly interested in their suffer- 
 ings and oppressions ; to many of which they themselves are likewise 
 exposed. They marry very much among the daughters and sisters of 
 their own order, and form almost a Cast. I think Buonaparte rather 
 popular among them. Plato seemed to contemplate his success 
 as an inevitable, and not very alarming prospect. He refused to draw 
 up a Form of Prayer for the success of the Russian arms. “ If," said 
 he, “ they be realty penitent and contrite, let them shut up their places 
 of public amusement for a month, and / will then celebrate public 
 prayers." His expressions of dislike to the nobles and wealthy classes 
 were strong and singular ; as also the manner in which he described 
 the power of an Emperor of Russia, the dangers which surround him, 
 and the improbability of any rapid improvement. “ It would be much 
 letter," said he, “ hud we a Constitution like that of England." Ye t 1 
 suspect he does not wish particularly well to us, in our war with 
 I'rance.” Heber’s MS. Journal. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IX 
 
204 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, of violence, and, being quite stunned by the 
 IX ' , blow, remained a few seconds insensible : after- 
 wards, his loud lamentations were heard; and 
 we saw him tearing off and scattering his white 
 hairs. He had, according to the custom in 
 Russia, received his liberty upon the death of 
 the Prince; but choosing rather to consign him- 
 self for the remainder of his days to a convent, 
 he retired for ever from the world, saying, 
 
 “ Since his dear old master was dead, there was 
 no one living who cared for him. 
 
 A plate was handed about, containing boiled 
 rice and raisins; a ceremony we are unable to 
 explain. The face of the deceased was then 
 covered with linen, and the archbishop poured 
 consecrated oil, and threw a white powder, 
 probably lime, several times upon it, pronounc- 
 ing some words in the Russian language, these 
 he afterwards repeated aloud in Latin: “Dust 
 thou art; and unto dust thou art returned!" The 
 
 lid of the coffin was then replaced ; and, after a 
 requiem, “ sweet as from blest voices,” a pro- 
 cession began from the church to a convent in 
 the vicinity of the city, where the body was to 
 be interred. There was nothing solemn in this 
 part of the ceremony. It began by the slaves 
 of the deceased on foot, all of whom were in 
 mourning. After the slaves, followed the pnests, 
 
 3 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 205 
 
 bearing tapers ; then was borne the body, on a 
 common drosky, the whip of the driver being 
 bound with crape; afterwards proceeded a line 
 of carriages, of the miserable order before de- 
 scribed. But, instead of the slow movemient 
 usually characteristic of funeral processions, the 
 priests and the people ran as fast as they could, 
 and the body was jolted along in a very indeco- 
 rous manner. Far behind the last rumbling 
 vehicle were seen persons, running, quite out of 
 breath, and unable to keep up with their compa- 
 nions'. 
 
 (1) To this account of a Russian Funeral, it may be proper to add a 
 description of a Russian Christening, as it was communicated to the 
 author by a gentleman long resident in Moscow. The ceremony of 
 Baptism is as follows As soon as a child is born, or a few days after- 
 wards (unless it be too weak), the child is carried to church by the 
 godfathers and godmothers ; where, being met at the door by the 
 Priest, he signs the child with the sign of the cross in the forehead, 
 and gives it the benediction, saying, “ The Lord preserve thy going 
 out, and thy coming in They then walk up together to the font, 
 round the edge of which the priest fastens four lighted wax candles, 
 delivered to him by the sponsors, whom he incenses, and consecrates 
 the water by dipping the cross into it with a great deal of ceremony : 
 then begins a procession round the font, being followed by the sponsors 
 with wax candles in their hands : thus they go about the font three 
 times. The procession being over, the sponsors give the name of the 
 child to the priest, in writing: the priest puts the name upon an image, 
 which he holds upon the child's breast, and asks, “ Whether the child 
 believe in God the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost r The sponsors having 
 answered yes, three times, they all turn their backs to the font, as a 
 sign of their aversion to the three next questions to be asked by the 
 priest, viz. “ Whether the child renounce the Devil f Whether he re- 
 nounce his angels f Whether he renounce his works l The sponsors 
 
 answer. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IX. 
 
 * 
 
206 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap. The stalls of fruit and food in the streets of 
 ■ j Moscow prove, perhaps, beneficial to the health 
 Fruit Ind of the people; especially to the children, who 
 Fojd ' are ill-fed at home. At these places, for a few 
 copeeks, which they contrive to collect, they get 
 
 answer, “ I renounce,” distinctly, to each question, and spit thee 
 times upon the ground , in token of malediction. (See Part II. Sect. III. 
 cb. vii. p. 295. Note 1. of these Travels, for further observations upon 
 this antient Eastern inode of cursing J 1 hen they turn their laces to 
 the font again: and being asked by the priest, ' fVhether they pvo- 
 mise to bring up the child in the true Creek Religion , ’ the exorcism 
 begins: the priest puls his hand upon the child, and blows three 
 times, say ing these words, “ Get out of the child , thou unclean spirit, 
 and make way for the Holy Ghost he then cuts off a lock of the 
 child’s hair, wraps it up in apiece of wax, and throws it into the font ; 
 after which th hild is stripped quite naked, and the priest takes it 
 in his arms aud plunges it into the water three times, pronouncing the 
 words of the Sacrament, “ I baptize thee in the name of the Father, and 
 of the Son, and if the Holy Ghost." 
 
 Immediately after the immersion, he signs it with the sign of the 
 cross, (using for that purpose an oil consecrated by a Bishop,) upon the 
 forehead, upon the breast, upon the shoulders, upon the palms of the 
 hands, and upon the back. This is another sacrament, arid it is called 
 the Baptism ol Unction : by virtue of this, it is supposed the child re- 
 vives the Holy Ghost. The priest having then put a grain of salt in 
 its mouth, puts a clean shirt upon it, and says, “ Thou art as clean and 
 as clear from original sin as thy shirt” He then hangs about its neck 
 a little cross, of gold, silver, or lead, which is strictly preserved by the 
 Russians, who deny Christian burial to such as have not one of these 
 crosses about them when they die. Those who are sponsors for the 
 child are looked upon as so nearly related, that they arc not permit- 
 ted to intermarry. In cases of necessity, the midwife, or any other 
 person except the parents, may administer baptism. Baptism is es- 
 teemed the most essential point of religion, for they bold tbc doctrine 
 of original sin; and persons, who have been notorious reprobates, are 
 re-admitted as members of the Church, by repeating their baptism. 
 There being no Confirmation in this Church, baptism, and baptismal 
 unction (above mentioned), are administered at the same time. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 a wholesome dinner. I saw them served at the 
 stalls with plates of boiled rice, over which was 
 poured a little honey; and for each of these they 
 paid about a penny English. In the spring, 
 apples are exposed for sale (which the Russians 
 have a remarkable method of preserving through 
 the winter, though we could not gain informa- 
 tion how this was done), baked pears, salad, 
 salted cucumbers (which are antiscorbutic, and 
 esteemed delicious by persons of every rank), 
 wild berries, boiled rice, quass, honey, and 
 mead. As almost every eatable receives a 
 formal benediction from the priest, before it is 
 considered fit for use, no Russian will touch any 
 article of food until that ceremony has taken 
 place. A particular church, near the Mareschul 
 Bridge, is set apart for the benediction of apples; 
 and this ceremony does not take place until the 
 first apple drops from the tree, which is brought 
 in great form to the priest. A Mohammedan would 
 sooner eat porh, than a Russian would eat uncon- 
 secrated fruit. 
 
 Having observed a very rare Siberian plant, 
 the “ purple-flowered Henbane” ( Hyoscyamus 
 Physalo'ides), growing wild in the garden of our 
 friend and banker, Mr. Doughty, we thought the 
 season sufficiently advanced to go, on the twenty- 
 ninth of May , upon a botanical excursion to 
 
2qq MOSCOW. 
 
 chap. Sparrow Hill, an eminence near the city, much 
 , IX _^ celebrated for the view it affords of Moscow and 
 aur w its environs. The sight is not so pleasing as 
 the scene beheld from the Kremlin; it is too 
 much of a bird’s-eye prospect; and, although 
 it comprehend the whole extent of tire city, 
 with the rivers, aud all its vast suburbs, the 
 magnificence of the edifices is lost in the dis- 
 tance to which they appear removed. Upon 
 this hill one of the former Sovereigns began to 
 build a palace: the foundations of this, with 
 vaults and cellars of brick-work, are now in 
 ruins. From the eminence we perceived the 
 land round Moscow to be low and swampy, 
 abounding with pools of stagnant water, and of 
 course unhealthy. The climate is also danger- 
 ous, from sudden transitions. The rapidity of 
 vegetation was here very striking. The English 
 “ Pilewort,” or Ranunculus Jicaria, was already 
 losing its blossom. Many other later flowers, 
 by their forward state, gave us notice that it 
 was time to bid adieu to cities and the 
 “ busy haunts of men,” if we wished to behold 
 Nature in more southern latitudes, before she 
 became divested of her smiling countenance. 
 
 The manner in which the Russian peasants 
 clothe their legs and feet, throughout the whole 
 empire, seems, from its simplicity and the mate- 
 
 / 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 209 
 
 rials used, to denote a very antient custom. It 
 prevails, also, all over Lapland, and the northern 
 territories of Sweden and of Norway. The shoes 
 are made of the matted bark of trees ; the legs 
 being covered by bandages of woollen cloth, 
 bound with thongs of the same materials as the 
 sandals. These thongs, passing through the 
 loose texture of the sandal, and afterwards en- 
 twined about the leg, keep the whole apparatus 
 together. 
 
 We have already mentioned the filthy esta- Public 
 blishment called an Inn, and dignified by the 
 title of L' Hotel de Constantinople, where we re- 
 sided '. The master of it had not less than five 
 hundred persons, as servants, and in other ca- 
 pacities, employed to assist him. In this list 
 were included a number of hired prostitutes, 
 constantly kept, in open stews belonging to the 
 house, for the use of the numerous guests by 
 whom it was inhabited. 
 
 A swarm of slaves, attendants, hirelings, and Banquets 
 dependent sycophants, is remarkably charac- bies. 
 teristic of the great houses in Moscow. The 
 nobles consider the honour of their families as 
 being so materially implicated in maintaining a 
 
 (0 During the reign of the Emperor Paul, this was the only inn 
 to which foreigners were allowed to resort. 
 
 VOL. I. P 
 
210 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, numerous table, that should any one of the sa- 
 1X ' , tellites usually surrounding them forsake his 
 post at dinner, to swell the train of any other 
 person, the offence is rarely forgiven; they will 
 afterwards persecute the deserter, by every 
 means of revenge within their power. We met 
 with persons who were victims of their own 
 affability, in having accepted invitations which 
 decoyed them from the banquets of their lord. 
 Similar motives have given rise to the prodigious 
 hospitality described by travellers. Before the 
 reign of Paul, a stranger was no sooner arrived 
 in Moscow, than the most earnest solicitations 
 were made for his regular attendance at the 
 table of this or that nobleman. If his visits 
 were indiscriminate, jealousy and quarrels were 
 the inevitable consequence. During the reign 
 of Paul, Englishmen were guests likely to in- 
 volve the host in difficulty and danger; but, 
 notwithstanding the risk incurred, it is but jus- 
 tice to acknowledge, that the nobles felt them- 
 selves highly gratified by the presence of a 
 stranger ; and, having requested his attendance, 
 they would close their gates upon his equipage, 
 lest it should be discerned by the officers of the 
 police. 
 
 The curious spectacle exhibited at theii din- 
 ners has not a parallel in the rest of Europe. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 211 
 
 The dishes and the wines correspond in grada- 
 tion with the rank and condition of the guests. 
 Those who sit near the master of the house are 
 suffered to have no connection with the fare or 
 the tenants at the lower end of the table. In 
 barbarous times we had something of the same 
 nature in England; and perhaps the custom is 
 not even now quite extinct in Wales, or in English 
 farm-houses, where all the family, from the master 
 to the lowest menial, sit down together. The 
 choicest viands at a Russian table are carefully 
 placed at the upper end, and are handed to those 
 guests stationed near the owner of the mansion, 
 according to the order in which they sit ; after- 
 wards, if any thing remain, it is taken gradually 
 to the rest. Thus a degree in precedency makes 
 all the difference between something and nothing 
 to eat ; for persons at the bottom of the table 
 are often compelled to rest satisfied with an 
 empty dish. It is the same with regard to the 
 wines : the best are placed near the top of the 
 table; but, in proportion as the guests are 
 removed from the post of honour, the wine 
 becomes of a worse quality, until at last it dege- 
 nerates into simple quass. Few things can offer 
 more repugnance to the feelings of an Englishman, 
 than the example of a wealthy glutton boasting 
 of the choice wines he has set before a foreigner 
 merely out of ostentation, while a number. 
 
 ciiap. 
 
 IX. 
 
 Barbarous 
 Etiquette 
 observed at 
 Russian 
 Tables, 
 
212 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, of brave officers and dependents are sitting 
 * X ' , py pim, to whom he is unable to offei a single 
 o-lass. We sometimes essayed a violation of 
 this barbarous custom, by taking the bottles 
 placed before us, and filling the glasses of those 
 below; but the offer was generally refused, 
 through fear of giving offence by acceptance ; 
 and it was a mode of conduct which we found 
 could not be tolerated, even by the most liberal 
 host. Two tureens of soup usually make their 
 appearance, as we often see them in England; 
 but if a stranger should ask for that which is at 
 the bottom of the table, the master of the house 
 regards him with dismay; the rest all gaze at 
 him with wonder ; and when he tastes what he 
 has obtained, he finds it to be a mess of dirty 
 and abominable broth, stationed for persons who 
 never venture to ask for soup from the upper 
 end of the table. The number of attendants m 
 waiting is prodigious. In the house of the 
 young Count Orlof were not less than five hun- 
 dred servants; many being sumptuously clothed, 
 and many others in rags. It was no unusual 
 sight to observe behind a chair a fellow in 
 plumes and gold lace, like a Neapolitan running- 
 footman, and another by his side looking like a 
 beggar from the streets. 
 
 A droll accident befel two English gentlemen 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 213 
 
 of considerable property, who were travelling CI T lf p ‘ 
 for amusement in the South of Russia. They — ■ 
 
 were at Nicholaef; and being invited by the of two 
 Chief Admiral to dinner, they were placed, as men. 
 usual, at the head of the table; where they 
 were addressed by the well-known title of 
 Milords Anglois. Tired of this ill-placed distinc- 
 tion, they assured the Admiral that they were 
 not Lords. “ Allow me then to ask," said their 
 host, “ what is the rank ivhich you possess?" The 
 lowest Russian admitted to an Admiral's table 
 has a certain degree of rank ; all who are in the 
 service of the Crown being considered as noble 
 by their profession ; and, as there is no middle 
 class of society in the country, but every mem- 
 ber of it is either a Nobleman or a Slave, there 
 is no such distinction as that of an independent 
 Gentleman, neither is the term understood, un- 
 less there be some specific title annexed to it 
 The Englishmen, however, replied, that they had 
 no other rank than that of English Gentlemen. 
 
 “ But your titles? You must have sojne title!" “No, 
 
 (said they) we have no title, but that of English 
 Gentlemen." A general silence, and many saga- 
 cious looks, followed this last declaration. On 
 the following day they presented themselves 
 again at the hour of dinner, and were taking 
 their station as before. To their surprise, they 
 found that each person present, one after the 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 214 
 
 chap, other, placed himself above them. One was a 
 General ; another a Lieutenant; a third an Ensign ; 
 a fourth a Police-officer a fifth an Army Surgeon ; 
 a sixth a Secretary ; and so on. AH this was very 
 well; they consoled themselves with the pro- 
 spect of a snug party at the bottom of the table, 
 where they would be the farther removed from 
 ceremony: but, lo! when the dishes came round, 
 a first was empty ; a second contained the sauce 
 without the meat ; a third, the rejected offals of 
 the whole company; and at length they were 
 compelled to make a scanty meal, upon the slice 
 of black bread before them, and a little dirty 
 broth from the humble tureen, behind whose 
 compassionate veil they were happy to hide 
 their confusion ; at the same time being more 
 amused than mortified, at an adventure into 
 which they now saw they had brought them- 
 selves by their unassuming frankness. Had 
 either of them said, as was really the case, that 
 they were in the service of his Britannic Majesty’s 
 Militia, or Members of the Associated Volunteers 
 of London, they would never have encountered 
 so unfavourable a reception. 
 
 But more serious difficulties frequently follow 
 a want of attention to these prejudices, in visit- 
 rrecaution j n g ^he interior of Russia. When a poderosnoy, 
 in Travel- or order for post-horses, is made out, it will 
 
 ling. 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 215 
 
 often be recommended to foreigners, and parti- ^jo- 
 cularly to Englishmen , to annex some title to » ' 
 
 the simple statement of their names. Without 
 this, they may be considered, during their jour- 
 ney, as mere slaves, and will be liable to frequent 
 insult, delay, and imposition. The precaution 
 is of such importance, that experienced travellers 
 have introduced the most ludicrous distinctions 
 upon these occasions; and have represented 
 themselves as Barons, Brigadiers, Inspectors, and 
 Professors ; in short, as any thing which may 
 enable them to pass as freedmen. For example : 
 
 “ Monsieur le Capitaine a. b. c. avec le Directeur 
 D. e. p. et le President g. h. i. et leurs domestiques 
 k. l. m.” So necessary is a due regard to these 
 particulars, that an officer of very high rank in 
 the service assured us, previous to our leaving 
 Moscow, that we should find ourselves frequently 
 embarrassed in our route, because we would not 
 abandon the pride of calling ourselves Com- 
 moners of England and we had reason to 
 regret the neglect with which we treated his 
 advice, during the whole of our subsequent 
 travels in the country. 
 
 It is at their dinners that strangers have an Dealers in 
 opportunity of learning what becomes ol the 
 immense wealth ot the Russian nobility. He 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 will see it lavished among foreigners in their 
 service, upon their tables and equipages, theii 
 dresses, toys, trinkets, jewels, watches, snuff- 
 boxes, balls, masquerades, private theatres, 
 dancers, singers, trading antiquaries, and tra- 
 velling picture-dealers. This last office is fre- 
 quently filled by hair-dressers and Italian lackeys. 
 There is no place in the world where adventurers 
 reap such harvests as in Moscow. Friseurs from 
 Italy or Germany , having bought up any rubbish 
 they are able to procure, get some friend to 
 give them a letter and a name, with which they 
 arrive in the city. The news is soon buzzed 
 abroad ; the new comer sought for ; and he must 
 be indeed a fool if he do not make his journey 
 answer. We saw a man of this description, a 
 barber of Vienna , as a picture-dealer in Moscow, 
 caressed by the nobles, and invited to all their 
 tables, until his stock of pictures was gone, and 
 then he was no more noticed. He complained 
 with bitterness to us of the dishonourable chi- 
 canery of the nobility. Some of them had given 
 him Pinchbeck instead of gold watches and snuff- 
 boxes, and paste instead of diamond rings, in 
 exchange for his pictures. In fact, they had 
 mutually cheated each other ; the pictures being 
 of less value than the worst, commodities given 
 for them. Of the two parties, however, the seller 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 and the buyers, the barber had ultimately the 
 
 losing part of the business. Flushed by his ' 
 
 newly-acquired wealth, he set up for an amateur 
 himself; bought minerals, and gave dinners; 
 and ended by returning to Vienna without a sous 
 in his pocket, to revive his old trade of frizzing 
 and shaving. 
 
 Moscow is, of all places in Europe, the most t ^™ n ; nd 
 advantageous rendezvous of adventurers and Swindlers 
 swindlers ; consequently, many are found there. 
 
 The credulity, the extravagance, and the igno- 
 rance of the Russian nobles, offer a tempting 
 harvest to such men. The notorious Semple rose 
 to great celebrity in Russia ; sometimes in- 
 fluencing, if not altogether governing, Potemkin. 
 
 He introduced an uniform for the hussars, which 
 is still worn ; and made alterations, truly judi- 
 cious, in their military discipline. 
 
 The wealth of the nobles is really enormous. 
 
 We have not in England individuals possess- theAWe*, 
 ing equal property, whatsoever may be their 
 rank or situation. Some of the Russian nobles 
 have seventy and even an hundred thousand 
 peasants ; their fortunes being estimated by the 
 number of their peasants, as our fVesl-India mer- 
 chants reckon their income by the number of Condition 
 
 i • , . of the 
 
 their hogsheads. These peasants pay them, peasants. 
 
21S 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IX. 
 
 upon the average, ten roubles annually, in specie 
 If the peasant have been required by his lord 
 
 (l) Mr. Heber’s Journal contains so much interesting information 
 concerning the state of the Peasants in / lussia , that a copious extract 
 will here be subjoined. While it accompanies the Author s 1 ext, it may 
 make atonement, by greater accuracy and more favourable statement, 
 for any error in his representation, whether statistical or moral. He 
 is bound, consistently with the promise he made, in the beginning of 
 this Work, to give his Narrative as nearly as possible in the state in 
 which it was written upon the spot. 
 
 “ We observed a striking difference between the peasants of the Crown 
 and those of individuals. The former are almost all in comparatively 
 easy circumstances. Their Abrock , or rent, is fixed at five roubles a 
 year, all charges included: and as they ore sure that it will never be 
 raised, they are more industrious. The peasants belonging to the 
 nobles have their abrock regulated by their means of getting money 5 
 at an average, throughout the empire, of eight or ten roubles. It then 
 becomes not a rent for land, but a downright tax on their industry. 
 Each male peasant is obliged, by law, to labour three days in each 
 week for his proprietor. This law takes effect on his arriving at the 
 age of fifteen. If the proprietor chooses to employ him the other 
 days, he may; as, for example, in a manufactory; but he then finds 
 him in food and clothing. Mutual advantage, however, generally re- 
 laxes this law ; and, excepting such as are selected for domestic ser- 
 vants, or, as above, are employed in manufactories, the slave pays a 
 certain abrock, or rent, to be allowed to work all the week on his 
 own account. The master is bound to furnish him with a house and 
 a certain portion of land. The allotment of land is generally settled 
 by the Starosta (Elder of the village) and a meeting of the peasants 
 themselves. In the same manner, when a master wants an increase of 
 rent, he sends to the Starosta, who convenes the peasants ; and by this 
 assembly it is decided what proportion each individual must pay. If 
 a slave exercise any trade which brings him in more money tiian agri- 
 cultural labour, he pays a higher abrock. If by journeys to Petersburg , 
 or other cities, he can still earn more, his master permits his absence, 
 but his abrock is raised : the smallest earnings are subject to his op- 
 pression. The peasants employed as drivers, at the post-houses, pay 
 an abrock out of the drmk-money they receive, for being permitted to 
 
 drive ; 
 
MOSCOW. 219 
 
 I 
 
 to give him three days of labour during each C i I x. r ‘ 
 week, the annual tax is said to be proportionally 
 
 drive ; as, otherwise, the master might employ them in other less pro- 
 fitable labour, on his own account. The aged and infirm are provided 
 with food, and raiment, and lodging, at their owner’s expense. Such 
 as prefer casual charity to the miserable pittance they receive from 
 their master, are frequently furnished with passports, and allowed to 
 seek their fortune ; but they sometimes pay an abrock even for this 
 permission to beg. The number of beggars in Petersburg is very small ; 
 as when one is found, he is immediately seut back to his owner. In 
 Moscow , and other towns, they are numerous ; though I think less so 
 than in London. They beg with great modesty, in a low and humble 
 tone of voice, frequently crossing themselves, and are much less cla- 
 morous and importunate than a London beggar. 
 
 “ The master has the po.ver of correcting his slaves, by blows or 
 confinement ; but if he be guilty of any great cruelty, he is amenable 
 to the laws ; which are, we are told, executed in this point with im- 
 partiality. In one of the towers of Khitaigorod , at Moscow , there was 
 a Countess Soltihof confined for many years with a most unrelenting 
 severity, which she merited, for cruelty to her slaves. Instances of 
 barbarity are, however, by no means rare. At Kostroma , the sister of 
 Mr. Kotchelof , the governor, gave me an instance of a nobleman who 
 had nailed (if I understood her right) his servant to a cross. The 
 master was sent to a monastery, and the business hushed up. Domes- 
 tic servants, and those employed in manufactories, as they are more 
 exposed to cruelty, so they sometimes revenge themselves in a terrible 
 manner. The brother of a lady of our acquaintance, who had a great, 
 distillery, disappeared suddenly, and was pretty easily guessed to have 
 been thrown into a boiling copper by his slaves. We heard another 
 instauce, though not from equally good authority, of a lady, now in 
 Moscow , who had been poisoned three several times by her servants. 
 
 “ No slave can quit his village, or his master’s family, without a 
 passport. Any person arriving in a town or village, must produce his 
 to the Starosta; and no one can harbour a stranger without one. If 
 a person be found dead without a passport, his body is sent to the hos- 
 pital for dissection ; of which we saw an instance. I he punishment 
 ®f living runaways, is imprisonment, and hard labour in the Govern- 
 ment works ; and a master may send to the public workhouse any 
 
 peasant 
 
220 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IX. 
 
 diminished. But, in despite of all the pretended 
 regulations made in favour of the peasant, the 
 
 peasant he chooses. The prisons of Moscow and Kostroma were chiefly 
 filled with such ruuaway slaves, who were, for the most part, in irons. 
 On the frontier, they often escape ; hut in the interior it is almost 
 impossible: yet, during the summer, desertions are very common; 
 and they sometimes lurk about for many months, living miserably in 
 the woods. This particularly happens when there is a new levy of 
 soldiers. The soldiers are levied, one from every certain number of 
 peasants, at the same time all over the empire. But if a man be dis- 
 pleased with Ids slave, he may send him for a soldier at any time he 
 pleases, and take a receipt from Government ; so that he send one 
 mail less the next levy. He also selects the recruits he sends to Go- 
 vernment ; with this restriction, that they are young men, free from 
 disease, have sound teeth, and are five feet two inehes high. 
 
 “ The Starosta, of whom mention has been so frequently made, is 
 an officer resembling the antient bailiff of an English village. He is 
 chosen, we arc told, (at least generally,) by the peasants : sometimes 
 annually, and sometimes for life. He is answerable for the abrocks to 
 the lord ; decides small disputes among the peasants: gives billets for 
 quarters to soldiers, or to Government officers, on a journey, &c. 
 Sometimes the proprietor claims the right of appointing the Starosta. 
 
 ‘ ‘ ,\ slave cau on no pretence he sold out of Bussia, nor in Bussia, 
 to any but a person born noble, or, if not noble, having the rank of 
 Lieutenant- Colonel. This rank is not confined to the military; it may 
 be obtained by them in civil situations. (Professor /‘alias had the rank 
 of Brigadier.) This law is, however, eluded : as roturiers (plebeians) 
 frequently purchase slaves for hire, by making use of the name of 
 some privileged person ; and all nobles have the privilege of letting out 
 their slaves. 
 
 “ Such is the political situation of the peasant. With regard to his 
 comforts, or means of supporting existence, 1 do not think they are 
 deficient. Their houses are in tolerable repair, moderately roomy, and 
 well adapted to the habits of the people. They have the air of being 
 sufficiently fed, and their clothing is warm and substantial. Fuel, 
 food, and the materials for building, are very cheap ; but clothing is 
 dear. In summer they generally wear Nantkin caftans, one of which 
 costs thirteen roubles. Their labhas (linden-bark sandals) cost nothing, 
 
 except 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 221 
 
 tax he is called upon to pay, or the labour he 
 is compelled to bestow, depends only on the x 
 caprice or the wants of his tyrant. Labour is 
 
 except in great towns. They wear a blue Nantkin shirt, trimmed with 
 red, which costs two or three roubles; linen drawers; and linen or 
 hempen rags wrapped round their feet and legs, over which the richer 
 sort draw their hoots. The sheep-skin schaul costs eight roubles, but it 
 lasts a long time ; as does a lamb-skin cap, which costs three roubles. 
 The common red cap costs about the same. For a common cloth caf- 
 tan, such as the peasants sometimes wear, we were asked thirty roubles. 
 To clothe a Russian peasant or a soldier is, I apprehend, three times as 
 chargeable as in England. Their clothing, however, is strong, and, 
 being made loose and wide, lasts longer. It is rare to see a Hussion 
 quite in rags. With regard to the idleness of the lower classes here, 
 of which we bad heard great complaints, it appears, that, where they 
 have an interest in exertion, they by no means want industry, and have 
 just the same wish for luxuries as other people. Great proprietors, 
 who never raise their abrocks, such as Count Sheremetof, have very rich 
 and prosperous peasants. The difference we noticed between peasants 
 belonging to the Crown and those of the nobility has been already men- 
 tioned. The Crown peasants, indeed, it is reasonable to suppose, are 
 more happy ; living at their case, paying a moderate quit-rent, and 
 choosing their own Starosta. They are, however, more exposed t o vexa- 
 tion and oppression from the petty officers of the Crown. 
 
 “ This account of the condition of the peasants in Russia is an aJrrige 
 of the different statements we procured in Moscow, and chiefly from 
 Prince Theodore Nikolaiovitz Galitsin. The levies for the army are con- 
 sidered by the peasants as times of great terror. Raron Rode told me, 
 they generally keep the levy as secret as possible, till they have fixed 
 on and secured a proper number of men. They are generally chained 
 till they are sworn in : the fore part of the head is then shaved, and 
 they are thus easily distinguished from other peasants. After this, 
 desertion is very rare, aud very difficult. The distress of one of their 
 popular Dramas, which we saw acted at Yareslof, in the private theatre 
 of the Governor Prince Galitsin, consisted in a young man being pressed 
 for a soldier. In the short reign of Petf.h II. who, it is well known, 
 transferred the scat of Government again to Moscow, no man was 
 pressed for a soldier ; the army was recruited hy volunteers ; and slaves 
 were permitted to enter.” Heber’s MS. Journal. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 IX. 
 
222 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, not exacted from males only : women, and child- 
 1 ^ rcn from the age of ten years and upwards, 
 are obliged to perform their equal share. Tithes 
 are, moreover, demanded of whatever may remain 
 in their hands ; of linen, poultry, eggs, butter, 
 pigs, sheep, lambs, and every product of the 
 land, or of domestic manual labour. Should a 
 peasant, by any misfortune, be deprived of the 
 tribute expected by his lord, he must beg, bor- 
 row, or steal, to make up the deficiency. Some 
 of the nobles choose to converse with foreigners 
 upon the condition of their slaves; and, when 
 this is the case, not the smallest reliance can 
 be placed upon the statement they may make. 
 The observations of one of their Princes, at his 
 own table, concerning the superiority of Russian 
 to English liberty, will be found in a formei 
 Chapter. The same person deemed it to be 
 decorous, upon another occasion, and before an 
 immense assembly, to contrast the situation of 
 English peasants with what he termed the hap- 
 piness of the Russian slaves. “ There is, said 
 he, addressing himself to us with an air of 
 triumph, “ more of the reality of slavery in 
 England than in Russia .” When we requested his 
 Excellency to explain what he implied by the 
 “ reality of slavery ,” he expatiated upon the 
 miseries of press-gangs ; and pictured the flou- 
 rishing condition of his own peasants, whom he 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 223 
 
 described as having relief in sickness, refuge in chap. 
 calamity, and in their old age a comfortable > — 
 
 asylum. We asked the Prince, if there existed 
 one, amongst the happiest of his slaves, who 
 would not rejoice to exchange his Russian liberty 
 for what he was pleased to term English slavery. 
 
 We had seen the peasants of this very man, 
 
 according to his own pathetic discourse, “ in 
 sickness, in calamity, and in old age and it 
 was well known to every person present, that 
 their “ relief and refuge” was in death, and 
 their “ asylum” the grave. 
 
 Another nobleman assured us, that the greatest 
 punishment he inflicted upon his slaves (for he 
 professed to have banished all corporeal chas- 
 tisement) was to give them their liberty, and 
 then turn them from his door. Upon further 
 inquiry, we discovered that his slaves fled from 
 their fetters, even if there were a certainty of 
 death before their eyes, rather than remain 
 beneath his tyranny. Great indeed must be 
 the degree of oppression which a Russian will 
 not endure, who from his cradle crouches to his 
 oppressor, and has been accustomed to receive 
 the rod without daring to murmur. Other 
 nations speak of Russian indolence ; which is 
 remarkable, as no people are naturally more 
 lively, or more disposed to employment. We 
 
224 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 chap, may perhaps assign a cause for their inactivity, 
 IX . in necessity. Can there exist any inducement 
 to labour, when it is certain that a ruthless 
 tyrant will deprive industry of its hard earn- 
 ings ? The only property a Russian nobleman 
 allows his peasant to possess, is the food he 
 cannot or will not eat himselt ; the bark ol 
 trees', chaff, and other refuse; quass, water, 
 and fish oil. If the slave have sufficient inge- 
 nuity to gain money without his knowledge, it 
 becomes a dangerous possession; and, when 
 once discovered, it falls instantly into the hands 
 of his lord. 
 
 A peasant in the village of Celo Molody, near 
 Moscow, who had been fortunate enough to 
 scrape together a little wealth, wished to mairy 
 his daughter to a tradesman ol the city, and 
 offered fifteen thousand roubles for her freedom 
 — a most unusual price, and a much greater 
 sum than persons of his class, situate as he 
 was, will be generally found to possess 8 . The 
 
 (1) “ A few thousands of their fellows eat wheaten bread, because 
 thirty milliuus of slaves browse on herbs and gnaw birch bark, on which 
 they feed, like the beavers, who surpass them in understanding.” 
 Secret Mem. of Court of Petersburg, p. 268. 
 
 (2) This anecdote of a peasant’s wealth, and the example mentioned 
 in p. 109, seem to prove an incorrectness in the description given of 
 the hardships sustained by the lower order of people in Russia; unless 
 
 the 
 
MOSCOW. 
 
 tyrant took the ransom ; and. then told the fa- 
 ther, that both the girl and the money belonged 
 to him, and therefore she must still continue 
 among the number of his slaves. What a pic- 
 ture do these facts afford of the state of Russia ! 
 It is thus that we behold the subjects of a vast 
 empire stripped of all they possess, and exist- 
 ing in the most abject servitude; victims of 
 tyranny, and of wickedness ; exposed to a more 
 unprincipled dominion, and to severer priva- 
 tions, than the most wretched vassals of any 
 other system of despotism upon earth. 
 
 Traversing the provinces south of Moscow, 
 the land is as the garden of Eden ; a fine soil, 
 covered with corn, and apparently smiling in 
 plenty : but enter into the cottage of the poor 
 labourer, who is surrounded by all these riches, 
 and you find him dying of hunger, or pining 
 
 the Reader be further informed, that the term Peasant, as applied to 
 the population of Russia, does not necessarily imply that part of it who 
 are poor. A peasant may be very rich. He may be found in the ester- 
 rise of a lucrative trade, or engaged, as a merchant, in commerce ; 
 yet, as he belongs to the class of staves, both his wealth and his person 
 belong to some particular lord. Sometimes the lords contcut themselves 
 in receiving a moiety of the earnings obtained by their staves ; hut very 
 frequently they seize all within their power, and hence arises the 
 necessity a rich peasant feels of concealing what be may possess. It is 
 the agricultural peasant who sustains constant privation, in the midst 
 of apparent wealth. 
 
226 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 CHAP, from bad food, and in want of the common 
 necessaries of life. Extensive pastures, covered 
 with cattle, afford no milk to him. In autumn, 
 the harvest yields no bread for his children. 
 A selfish and misdoing lord claims all the pro- 
 duce. At the end of summer, every road m 
 the southern provinces is filled with caravans, 
 bearing corn and all sorts of provisions, every 
 produce of labour and of the land, to supply 
 the nobles of Moscow and Petersburg with the 
 means of wealth, and the markets of those two 
 capitals, which, like whirlpools, swallow all that 
 approaches their vortex, with never-ending- 
 
 voracity 1 . 
 
 (l) “ A few cities enjoy the pleasures of life, and exhibit palaces, 
 because whole provinces lie desolate, or contain only "retched hovels, 
 iu which you would expect to find bears, rather than men. Secret 
 Mem. of the Court of Petersburg, ]>. 368. 
 
CHAP. X. 
 
 FROM MOSCOW TO WORONETZ. 
 
 Departure from Moscow — Celo Molody — Serpuchof — 
 Insolence and Extortion — River Oka— Celo Zavody — 
 Antient Games— Vast Oriental Plain — State of Tra- 
 velling — Tula — its Manufactures — Imperial Fabric of 
 Arms — Present State of Tula — Economy of Fuel — 
 Iron Mines — Road from Tula to Woronetz — Dedilof — 
 Change of Climate — Boghorodilz — Celo Nikitzkoy — 
 Bolshoy Platy — Effremof — Nikolaijevka — Celo Pe- 
 trovskia Palnia — Elelz — Ezvoly — Zadonetz — Celo 
 Chlelnoy — Bestuzevka — Celo Staroy Ivotinskoy — 
 Woronetz. 
 
 It is now necessary to take leave of Moscow , 
 where we passed some pleasant hours, and 
 many others of painful anxiety, exposed to 
 insult, and to oppression, from the creatures, 
 
 a 2 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 X. 
 
 ' v ' 
 
228 
 
 FROM MOSCOW 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 X. 
 
 Departure 
 from Mos- 
 cow. 
 
 spies, and agents, of the contemptible tyrant 
 who was then upon the Russian throne. Our 
 situation, and that of every Englishman in the 
 empire, was not better than the condition of 
 prisoners on their parole. We had been al- 
 lowed to move about, it is true, but always 
 under the vigilant eye of a troublesome and 
 capricious police. We were detained a long 
 time, before we could learn when we might go, 
 or by what route we should be allowed to 
 pass. An escape by the Livonian frontier was 
 utterly impracticable. At last, without any 
 passport for leaving the country, but encou- 
 raged by the advice and exertions of our 
 excellent and friendly ambassador, who secretly 
 conveyed to us letters from the Governor ot 
 Petersburg to the Governor of Moscow, and to 
 General Michelson, Commander-in-chief in the 
 Crimea, we determined to set out for that Pen- 
 insula, by a circuitous route, through the country 
 of the Don Cossacks ; and, if possible, to visit 
 the more distant regions of Kuban Tartary and 
 of Circassia. Having, by means of these letters, 
 procured the long-wished-for poderosnoy, and 
 placed our carriage again upon its wheels, we 
 left the city on the evening of the thirty-first of 
 May, visiting our banker at his country-seat 
 near Moscow, and proceeding that night only 
 twenty-seven versts, to a place called Molodtzy, 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 229 
 
 the first station. The next day, June the Jirst, CI ^ AR 
 we arrived at Celo Molody. Its inhabitants had v - — / — 
 been once in good circumstances, but since 
 completely ruined by their lord. The tyrant 
 has a fine house, near the church, which is upon 
 the left hand in quitting the village. He is the 
 miscreant, before mentioned, who refused to a 
 poor girl her liberty, after accepting the price 
 of her ransom, when she wished to marry in 
 Moscow. Between Molodtzy and Celo Molody 
 we passed through Podolsk, pleasingly situate, 
 between two hills, upon the river Mockra. 
 
 The late Empress conferred upon this place the 
 name and distinction of a town ; but Paul (in 
 his determination to do every thing that she 
 would not have done, and to undo all that she 
 did) made it again a village. 
 
 From Celo Molody our journey was performed 
 with very great expedition, and over good roads, 
 to Grischinka, and to Serpuchof : this last place 
 resembles Newmarket, in situation, appearance, 
 and surrounding scenery: and that nothing 
 might be wanting to awaken the recollection of 
 our beloved country, the “ Mouse-ear Scorpion 
 Grass” ( Myosotis Scorpio'ides), with other British 
 herbs, appeared among the plants then in flower. 
 Exactly in the spot which, with reference to the 
 town, corresponds with that of the Race Course 
 
 
FROM MOSCOW 
 
 230 
 
 chap. a t Neivmarhet, before descending into Serpuchof'. 
 
 i j there is a church-yard: here, among the graves 
 and tombs, we saw several of the women of the 
 country practising a custom which is purely 
 Oriental; namely, that of visiting the sepulchres 
 of friends long buried, bowing their heads to the 
 ground, touching the graves with their foreheads, 
 weeping aloud, and uttering short prayers. In 
 this road the dress of the peasants changes 
 more frequently than in other parts of Russia; 
 and it is remarkable, that, although the habits 
 of the women be so various in the different pro- 
 vinces, those of the men are the same through- 
 out the empire. 
 
 Serpuchof. Serpuchof is a handsome little town, upon the 
 river Nara. It contains a citadel, inclosed by a 
 strong rampart ; and has a IVeywode, with his 
 Chancery. In the market we observed some 
 shops solely appropriated to the sale ot labhas, 
 or Russian sandals : these were before desermed, 
 as constructed of birch or linden-bark '. Some 
 
 (l) See p. 209. According to Mr. Haber, the Linden, or Lime-tree, 
 affords the bark used for these sandals. “ This practice of making 
 shoes of linden-bark is very destructive to the trees, as a man will wear 
 out twenty or thirty pairs of sandals in a year. 1 he Isme-tree, of 
 ■which these shoes are made, is a very valuable plant, owing to the 
 construction of mats from its bark, which form a very considerable 
 article of exportation. It is scarce in the western provinces ; but in 
 .the eastern very plentiful ; and it nourishes as high as Archangel. 
 
 Heber’s MS. Journal. 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 231 
 
 authors have asserted that each peasant made 
 his own. Formerly this, might have been the 
 case ; and perhaps in the interior it is so now. 
 Such shops, however, prove that the rudest and 
 the most antient kind of sandal in the world, 
 which is common to man in a state of nature, 
 and roaming his primeval forests, is even now 
 an article of commerce 4 
 
 At every station upon the route there is an 
 officer, who is called Potchedlione, to superintend 
 the post, and to see that travellers are regularly 
 supplied with horses. Some of these men, 
 however, will not furnish horses without a bribe, 
 even when the Imperial order has been produced. 
 We experienced some delay at Serpuchof, from 
 a person of this description. Our order directed, 
 that if horses were not found at the post-house, 
 the officer on duty should procure others from 
 the peasants. Being told there were no horses, 
 the author went into the office, to enforce this 
 order. As he entered, the Potchetilione com- 
 manded him to take off his hat : and having 
 asked for what reason he was to remain bare- 
 headed in that place ; “ What, are you blind," 
 exclaimed the superintendant, in a tone of great 
 insolence, “ that you do not see the Emperor's 
 
 chap. 
 
 X. 
 
 ' — * — ' 
 
 Insolence 
 and Extor- 
 tion. 
 
 (2J See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
232 
 
 FROM MOSCOW 
 
 chat, portrait' upon the wall? It is a face to make 
 ■ ' _ Englishmen tremble.” The author endeavoured 
 
 to answer him in his own way, saying, “ The 
 Emperor, truly! If he knew how shamefully 
 you have slandered his countenance by that vile 
 representation, your head would come off sooner 
 than my hat.” Finding his gasconade had not 
 succeeded, he caused it to be intimated, that he 
 wanted a rouble. We could hardly credit what 
 we heard; and should have been ashamed to 
 offer it, if he had not afterwards told us so 
 himself. Horses now came quick enough, and 
 half-a-dozen fine speeches into the bargain. 
 
 River Oka. About a verst from this town we crossed the 
 Oka, by a ferry. This river falls into the Volga 
 at Kolomna. It is a noble piece of water, almost 
 as broad as the Thames, and well stocked with 
 fish. We had been detained so long at Serpuchof, 
 that evening was coming on when we arrived 
 upon its banks. Peasants were seated in groupes 
 around different fires, singing, and boiling their 
 fish upon the shore. Innumerable frogs, whose 
 croaking may be heard to a great distance 
 
 (l) Copies of the Emperor's Portrait, for which see the Vignette to 
 the First Chapter, were sent, by order of Paul, to all public offices of 
 his empire. Some of those pictures were executed in a most wretched 
 manner. All persons, however, were ordered to stand bareheaded 
 before them, as if in the despot’s presence. The peasants fell pros- 
 trate, and offered their adoration, as before their BOGH. 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 233 
 
 during the night, overpowering the melody of CI ^ AI> - 
 nightingales in Russia as well as in Denmark, -v— ' 
 
 joined the loud chorus; while the moon, full 
 and splendid, rose over this fine scene. 
 
 Upon the south side of the river stood a small 
 wooden hut : at this our driver desired to stop 
 for a little quass. Having acquired a relish for 
 this Scythian beverage, we followed him into 
 the hut; but were astonished to find, instead 
 of quass, five or six hogsheads full of brandy ; 
 and this they were retailing and drawing off, as 
 our tapsters draw beer. We could not learn 
 where they found customers for so great a con- 
 sumption, but supposed they might be derived 
 from the traffic upon the river : yet they assured 
 us that such brandy-huts were found in every 
 village, and that all of them were equally well 
 stocked. 
 
 We arrived late the same night at Celo Zavody, Za * 
 and waited there until sun-rise. In all the 
 villages and towns, from Moscow to Woronetz, 
 as in other parts of Russia, are seen boys, girls, 
 and sometimes even old men, playing with the 
 small joint-bones of a sheep. This game is Al ’*^ 
 called dibbs by our English peasants. It is of 
 very remote antiquity ; and it may be observed 
 beautifully represented upon the Grecian terra- 
 
FROM MOSCOW 
 
 chap. C otta vases; particularly upon a fine one be- 
 , longing to the Collection of the late Sir William 
 Hamilton, where a female figure appears most 
 gracefully delineated, kneeling upon one knee, 
 with her right arm extended, the palm down- 
 wards, and such small bones ranged along the 
 back of her hand and arm. She seems in the act 
 of throwing them up, in order to catch them. In 
 this manner the Russians play the game. But 
 they have another method, corresponding with 
 our game of marbles, and which probably afforded 
 the origin both of marbles and of nine-pins: it 
 consists in placing several larger bones, in a 
 row, upon the ground ; a contest ensuing, who 
 shall beat them all down with another bone 
 from a given distance, in the smallest number 
 pf throws. 
 
 It is a pleasing sight to see the young vil- 
 lagers return in the evening from their labour. 
 They move slowly up the village, with flowers 
 in their hats, singing a kind of hymn. In these 
 carols, each person bears a separate part ; and 
 by the exactness of the Russians in observing 
 time and tune, the effect is very fine. Vege- 
 tation had been rapid, in the short interval of 
 our journey from Moscoiu ; but in the garlands 
 of the peasants, and among the plants found 
 near the road, we observed only the earliest 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 235 
 
 flowers, and there were none worthy of a par- ciiap. 
 
 ticular notice. The whole territory, whether ' / 
 
 to the south of Moscow, • or in any other direc- 
 tion, is flat. The great Oriental plain extends 
 from that city even to Tobolsky in Siberia, and 
 throughout all the southern provinces; appearing 
 generally destitute of wood, and being always 
 without mclosures. 
 
 In a narrative of travels through Russia, there state of 
 is no reason to fear any account of adventures 
 at inns. Except in large towns, such houses 
 are never seen ; and even there they are abo- 
 minable. Better accommodation may be had 
 in the farm-houses of Lapland peasants, than in 
 Russian inns. In the latter, the rooms consist 
 of bare walls, filthy beyond description, desti- 
 tute of any article of furniture. Sometimes 
 these houses are kept by foreigners; and, in 
 this case, the evil is not mended; because, 
 although a little old furniture be then intro- 
 duced, it is always dirty, and affords a recep- 
 tacle for every kind of vermin. A person who 
 wishes to traverse Russia, must consider it as 
 Antient Scythia ; being provided with every thing 
 he may require. If he can endure fatigue, with 
 little sleep, and live constantly covered with 
 dust, exposed to a scorching sun ; or to severe 
 frost, with a couch of snow to lie upon, beneath 
 
TULA. 
 
 236 
 
 chap, the canopy of heaven; he may travel in a 
 . X ‘ * khabitha, which is the best of all means of con- 
 veyance. If not, he must, according to the 
 method recommended in the First Chapter, have 
 a dormeuse in his carriage, which should be made 
 low, and with very wide axle-trees. In this 
 manner his journey will not be quite so expe- 
 ditious as in a lighter machine; but he will 
 always be able to proceed at the rate of a hun- 
 dred versts in a day. It he can smoke tobacco, 
 the fumes of it, used moderately, may preserve 
 him from dangerous infection; repel vermin; and, 
 by their narcotic power, acting as a stimulant, 
 may promote the digestion of bad food. This 
 practice also, during long fasting, upon chilling 
 lakes and marshes, and amidst unwholesome air, 
 has been found both solacing and salutary. 
 
 Tcl*.. The next day, June the third, we passed 
 through Vciszany and Celo Volotia, to Tula, 
 capital of the government of the same name, 
 and the Sheffield of Russia. Near the town we 
 found the Lathnea squamaria, a plant which the 
 peasants boil in milk, as a remedy for disordered 
 bowels, and a disease called sickness of heart; 
 but the specimens were difficult to preserve, 
 owing to their succulent nature. 
 
 For some time before we reached Tula, it 
 
TULA. 
 
 237 
 
 exhibited a considerable appearance. A very chap. 
 
 handsome church, with white columns, appeared < — ' 
 
 above the town, which occupies an extensive 
 vale, and is filled with spires and domes. The 
 entrance, both on its northern and southern 
 side, is through triumphal arches, made of 
 wood, painted to imitate marble. In former 
 times, Tula was a dangerous place to visit ; the 
 inhabitants frequently pillaging travellers in the 
 public streets. Now, it is the great mart of j^ a " u ^ c - 
 hardware for the whole empire; containing a Tula - 
 manufactory of arms, all sorts of cutlery, and 
 other works in polished steel. As soon as you 
 arrive at the inn, a number of persons crowd 
 the room, each bearing a sack filled with trin- 
 kets, knives, inkstands, incense-pots, silk-reels, » 
 
 scissars, and corkscrews. Their work is showy, 
 but very bad, and will not bear the smallest 
 comparison with our English wares: it is a 
 sufficient proof of the superiority of English 
 workmanship, that they stamp all their goods 
 with the names of English towns and English 
 artificers, imitating even the marks of the 
 Sheffield manufacturers, and adopting all their 
 models. The wares hawked about are made 
 during holidays and hours of leisure ; these the 
 workmen are permitted to sell to strangers, as 
 their own perquisites. They are able to fabri- 
 cate any thing, but they finish nothing. Some 
 
238 
 
 TULA. 
 
 chap, of the workmen were purposely sent to England 
 j by the late Empress, who neglected no measure 
 conducive to the improvement of the manu- 
 factory. We asked those who had worked in 
 our country, why their wares were so badly 
 finished. They replied, they could finish them 
 better, but were not able to bestow the neces- 
 sary time ; for as every article is the produce of 
 the labour of a single person, the high price 
 such additional labour must require would never 
 be obtained. The best work we saw was in a 
 manufactory of barometers, thermometers, and 
 mathematical instruments; but here the artificer 
 was a German, who had been instructed under 
 English masters in Petersburg. The late Empress 
 bought up almost all the work which her English 
 workmen completed. To encourage them, she 
 ordered spectacles by the gross, and afterwards 
 distributed them in presents. In her palaces, 
 thermometers were placed in every window: 
 and, as they were perpetually broken by the 
 servants, her workmen, in providing a fresh 
 supply, had sufficient demands to keep them 
 constantly at work. 
 
 imperial \ letter to one of the principal persons in the 
 
 Arms. Imperial manufactory enabled us to see the whole 
 of it. They exhibited to us a splendid collection 
 of guns, swords, pistols, &c. designed as 
 
TULA. 
 
 239 
 
 presents from the inhabitants of Tula to each 
 member of the Royal family, upon Paul’s ac- '> 
 cession to the throne. These offerings were, 
 however, refused by the Emperor , upon some 
 pretext of dissatisfaction experienced by him 
 from the people of the place. The true cause, 
 however, was known to be his steady determi- 
 nation of oppressing and insulting every indi- 
 vidual, or class of individuals, patronized by 
 his mother. Whatsoever might cast odium 
 upon her memory ; whatsoever might sully the 
 lustre of her fame ; by interrupting the progress 
 of her plans for public improvement; by dis- 
 missing her statesmen and her officers; by 
 poisoning the sources whence she dispensed 
 happiness amongst her people ; by overthrowing 
 her establishments ; by blighting the tender but 
 thriving shoots of science and of the arts, which 
 she had planted; by converting good to evil, and 
 joy to grief ; was the hourly occupation of her 
 unnatural son. In the few years of his frantic 
 tyranny (for every one saw, that of his govern- 
 ment there would be a speedy termination) he 
 proved a greater scourge to Russia than can be 
 counterbalanced by another long and glorious 
 career, like that of Catherine, distinguished by 
 wisdom and power and conquest and beneficence 1 . 
 
 (0 Such was, at least, the character of her public administration. 
 Her private vices were those of the people over whom she reigned. 
 
 The 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 X. 
 
TULA. 
 
 240 
 
 chap. Already every trace of her brilliant reign had 
 ■ ‘ disappeared. The Russians, on the acces- 
 
 sion of Paul, fell back into the barbarism 
 which characterized the empire before the age 
 of their First Peter. The polished nations of 
 Europe will be surprised to learn, that immortal 
 as the name of Catherine appears in their 
 annals, it was almost forgotten in Russia within 
 four years after her death : it remained among 
 the number of privations enjoined by the long 
 list of public proscriptions, and was heard only 
 in the howling of the wind that drifted the 
 snows of Siberia. At the same time, her 
 favourites were displaced; her ministers re- 
 jected ; her officers dismissed ; her monuments 
 overthrown: even the verst-posts, which bore 
 some marks of her taste, were demolished , 
 and near to their ruins stood a series ol wooden 
 Harlequinades, chequered to suit the foolish 
 fancy of the Imperial ideot upon the throne. 
 
 The Reader will find them strikingly pourtraycd in the “ Secret 
 Memoirs of the Court of Petersburg a work attributed to the 
 Count De Segur. Vet, who shall relate the butcheries of the Orlofs, 
 the Fossicks, and liaratinshies, of Russia ? All that Sl.akspeare has 
 fabled of the cruelties of Richard the Third seem to have been 
 realized under the reign of Catherine ; whether with or without her 
 connivance, has not been ascertained. The “quick conveyance" of 
 her husband, of the Holstein Guards, or Prince Ivan, might be the 
 work of her favourites; but can we believe that Alexius Orlof was 
 alone implicated in the fate of the innocent daughter of the Empress 
 Elizabeth ? 
 
 v 
 
TULA. 
 
 241 
 
 Tula, in its present condition, is not likely to 
 prove of any advantage to the empire ; because 
 the inhabitants are unable to raise a sufficient 
 quantity of water for the works. The machinery 
 is ill-constructed, and it is worse preserved. 
 Every thing seemed to be out of order. Work- 
 men, with long beards, stood staring at each 
 other, not knowing what to do; while their 
 intendants and directors were either intoxicated 
 or asleep. Notwithstanding all this, they boasted 
 of being able to send out of the manufactory, 
 in the common course of business, without any 
 particular order from Government, thirteen 
 hundred muskets in a week. But then the name 
 musket is almost all that connects the sham 
 appearance with the real weapon. It is won- 
 derful how any troops can use them: besides 
 being clumsy and heavy, they miss fire five 
 times out of six, and are also liable to burst 
 whenever they are discharged. 
 
 The streets of Tula are paved : its shops and 
 public places cause an appearance of activity 
 and of industry, in despite of the neglect shewn 
 to the public works. The number of merchants, 
 including shopkeepers, is estimated at four 
 thousand: and of this number some are very rich. 
 Its commerce, independently of the hardware 
 manufactory, consists in European merchandize, 
 
 "VOL. I. r 
 
 CIIAP. 
 
 X. 
 
 ' * 1 
 
 Present 
 State of 
 Tula. 
 
T U L A. 
 
 242 
 
 chap, in Greek wines, and in other productions 
 
 . x ~ , of Turkey. The Imperial manufactory of arms 
 employed six thousand workmen ; and the num- 
 ber of inhabitants was stated at thirty thousand. 
 The town stands in a pleasing valley, on the 
 borders of the river XJpa. There are few woods 
 in the neighbourhood, yet they produce suffi- 
 cient fuel for the consumption of the place. 
 
 Economy This may be attributed to the very great eco- 
 nomy introduced by the use of stoves; for the 
 heating of which, a few billets, kindled early 
 in the morning, suffice; an equal warmth being 
 afterwards diffused, during the whole of the day 
 and following night. If they be properly con- 
 structed, there is no method of heating apart- 
 ments attended with so little expense and so 
 many conveniences. In England, stoves are 
 generally made of cast iron ; these are not merely 
 unwholesome, but, in small rooms, they are 
 very dangerous. W' hy the Russian and Sioedish 
 stoves have not become common in our country, 
 where every article of fuel is so amazingly 
 expensive, may be explained by those who 
 prefer more costly, and perhaps more cheerful, 
 hearths. The generality of houses in Tula are 
 of wood ; but the number of dwellings built 
 with stone is considerable, and it mci eases 
 daily. Many new buildings afforded proof of 
 an increasing population. We observed women 
 
TULA. 
 
 248 
 
 employed in repairing the pavement of the chap. 
 streets, which is kept in good order. The dress '~- v — > 
 of the young females displays their persons to 
 advantage. A white shift covers the arms and 
 body in front, and is fastened behind with tape. 
 
 It is drawn tight over the breast, and there 
 held by a small button. 
 
 The iron mines in the neighbourhood of this Iron Mine*!, 
 place are very considerable: they occupy an 
 extent of more than ten miles, in a country 
 somewhat hilly, covered by thick woods. The 
 whole of the soil around them is impregnated 
 with iron, but the richest ore is found towards 
 the west. It lies scarcely concealed by a 
 superincumbent surface, not more than fourteen 
 inches thick, consisting of sand mixed with 
 mould, and sometimes of sand alone. From 
 these mines the celebrated forges of Demidof, 
 distant thirty-eight miles from Tula, derive 
 their ore. 
 
 As soon as we left Tula, we quitted the main Road from 
 road from Moscoiv to Cherson, and turned off due wormetz. 
 south, towards Woronetz. After ascending the 
 heights above Tula, we were carried into a wide 
 and desolate plain, covered only by a thin sod, 
 on which herds of cattle were grazing. This 
 deviation was not made, on our part, without. 
 
 r 2 
 
TULA. 
 
 244 
 
 chap, apprehension. We had reason to fear that 
 . ^ ; known roads might not suit a carriage ill-con- 
 
 structed for an adventurous journey; being lofty, 
 with narrow axle-trees, and more calculated for 
 cities than deserts. To our great satisfaction, 
 however, and for the comfort and assurance of 
 other travellers who may choose to follow our 
 route, the whole distance to Woronetz may be 
 passed over like a bowling-green, and the 
 lightest vehicle would be exposed to no hazard of 
 injury. This vast plain afforded us the finest road 
 in the world, not excepting even those of Sweden, 
 being all the way a firm hard turf, exactly re- 
 sembling that which covers the South Downs in 
 Sussex, and with the additional advantage of 
 being for the most part level, extending like an 
 ocean, in which the eye discerns no object to 
 interrupt the uniformity of the view. Over the 
 first part of the journey from Tula, small copses, 
 in patches, might be distinguished ; and in these 
 we noticed some dwarf oaks, the first seen since 
 we entered Russia from the Swedish frontier; 
 excepting a single tree in a garden at Moscow, 
 shewn there as a rare plant, and cut into a 
 barbarous form, like the yew-trees in old- 
 fashioned English shrubberies'. Among those 
 
 (1) The practice of cutting evergreens so as to resemble the shape 
 of animals is as old as the time of the Younger Pliny, and probably 
 
 much 
 
TULA. 
 
 245 
 
 copses we found the Potentilla Anserina, which 
 we had also seen at Tula ; the Asperula odorata ; 
 and a species of Geum that appeared new to us. 
 
 The view of Tula from the elevated plain 
 above it, over which the road passes towards 
 Woronetz, is very fine. There is not a more 
 pleasing prospect in Russia. The town itself, with 
 its numerous white buildings, domes, towers, and 
 rising spires, is a noble object. Trees appeared 
 skirting the suburban downs, and spreading 
 here and there into the valley, while cattle were 
 grazing in the surrounding pastures. At the 
 same time, our ears were greeted with the cheer- 
 ful sounds of industry issuing from different 
 manufactures ; with the ringing of bells ; the 
 lowing of the herds; and a loud chorus of pea- 
 sants, singing their national airs, who accompanied 
 their voices, either with the clapping of hands, 
 or with the wild notes of rustic pipes, constructed 
 of the same materials as the sandals on their feet*. 
 Numerous caravans were moreover passing from 
 the Ukraine and from the Don; and the whole of 
 this lively scene exhibited so striking a contrast 
 to what we had long been accustomed to witness 
 
 much older. In one of his Letters to dpollinaria (Hi. i. ep. 6.) he 
 mentions such ornaments of his Villa in Tuscany. 
 
 (2) See the Vignette to Chapter IX. 
 
FROM TULA 
 
 246 
 
 chap, in the frigid regions of the North, that we seemed 
 X ' j suddenly transported to a different zone. 
 
 Dediiof. The rapture, however, was not of long duration. 
 
 It is impossible to imagine a place more mise- 
 rable than the town or village of Dediiof, the 
 first place of relay, distant only twenty 1 miles 
 from Tula. It consisted of several timber huts, 
 coarsely thatched with straw. The interstices 
 of the trunks of trees, which, lying horizontally, 
 formed the walls of the huts, were filled with 
 mud. Dediiof stands in a wide and open district, 
 one half of it being upon the top, and the other 
 half near the bottom, of a hill. At first sight, it 
 appears like a number of dunghills, or heaps - 
 of straw; and it is only by a very near approach 
 that the traveller can be convinced of it s being 
 the residence of human beings; much less that 
 it should figure in the Russian maps as a town. 
 It is from seeing such places that we may con- 
 ceive what sort of cities and towns afford the 
 names which we find in the Russian Atlas, so 
 profusely scattered over the eastern provinces 
 of the empire 2 . The wretched state of Dediiof 
 
 (1) Thirty versts. 
 
 (2) “ Several of these towns arc even nothing more than so many 
 stakes driven into the ground, containing their name, and delineating 
 their site ; yet they figure in the map as if they were the capitals of so 
 many provinces.*’ Secret Mem. of the Cflurt of Petersburg, p. 83. 
 
TO VVORONETZ. 
 
 must, perhaps, be attributed to causes which 
 may desolate the fairest cities of the world. It 
 has experienced calamities, both of fire and 
 water; and has been so often reduced to ashes, 
 that its inhabitants dread even the sight of a 
 tobacco-pipe. Seeing the author kindling his 
 pipe, the Starosta of the place came to him, to 
 request that he would not use it, especially in 
 the open air, as a casual spark might again in- 
 volve the inhabitants in flames. Near to the 
 upper part of the village is an immense pool 
 filled with water, which was formerly land, 
 and covered with houses. Suddenly, subterra- 
 neous waters, penetrating the soil, rendered it 
 so loose, that the ground, with all the houses, 
 in one night gave way, and the place was trans- 
 formed into a small lake, As the whole district 
 is swampy, rendering the soil naturally loose 
 and spungy, and water is found immediately 
 below the surface, there is reason to apprehend, 
 sooner or later, that all the land about it will 
 experience the same alteration. This is rendered 
 the more probable by an event which occurred 
 a few years ago. At a small distance from this 
 pool, or lake, is another, caused by a similar 
 catastrophe. The inhabitants of Dedilof are pea- 
 sants, living in the greatest poverty: their sole 
 occupation is tillage. 
 
FROM TULA 
 
 248 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 X. 
 
 ' v > 
 
 Change of 
 Climate. 
 
 Boghoro- 
 
 ditz. 
 
 We were now traversing the southern latitude 
 of our beloved country, and in a direct line 
 towards the south. As we drew nigh to Wororwtz, 
 we observed many of our English indigenous 
 plants; the large thistle, the kilh-weed, dandelion, 
 white clover, wood-strawberry, plantain, and the 
 doch-iveed. Sudden and loud thunder-storms, 
 with hail and rain, majestic rolling clouds, pass- 
 ing gusts of wind, and transitory sun-beams, 
 reminded us of an English spring. Such acci- 
 dental resemblances are by no means, however, 
 the necessary accompaniments of a similarity in 
 latitude. Naples and Constantinople are nearly 
 on the same parallel of latitude ; but the climate 
 of the latter is by many degrees the colder of the 
 two. The mild aspect of the Plain of IV j ronetz 
 may be attributed to the want of forests ; the 
 removal of which, in all countries, raises the 
 temperature of the climate. A well-known 
 passage in Horace describes the mountain 
 Soracte as being white with deep snow 1 ; but 
 the climate of Italy is now so altered, that such 
 a sight is perhaps never observed. 
 
 The next day, June the fifth, we passed through 
 
 (1) “ Vidcs, ut alta stet nivc candidura 
 
 Soracte.” Ilorat. Lib. I. Ode 9. v. 1. 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 249 
 
 the town of Boghoroditz. On an eminence above chap. 
 this place, Bobrinsky, son of the late Empress, by <— v — > 
 Orlof, has a magnificent seat, with an estate of 
 the finest corn land in Russia, covering an extent 
 of sixteen square miles, and containing, as it is 
 reported, seventy thousand peasants. Here, 
 over an extensive tract of land, nothing is seen 
 but corn. It is the richest country in the em- 
 pire. The roads are so excellent, that the 
 waggons of the peasants, although laden with 
 stones, pass and repass upon wooden wheels 
 without any iron tires. 
 
 It is uncertain when the little town of Bogho- 
 roditz was built. The inhabitants began to hold 
 their archives under the Tsar Feodor Alexo- a.d. issn 
 vitz. The shopkeepers, the Streltzi, and the 
 Pmchari, with about one hundred invalid sol- 
 diers, have composed, since that time, its inha- 
 bitants. The culture of the land is their sole 
 resource, and the fertility of the soil has rendered 
 it remarkably productive. It is said, that the 
 peasants here have even a small superfluity of 
 the produce for sale, which they carry to Kaluga 
 and to Tula. This place also affords plenty of 
 honey to those towns. 
 
 From Boghoroditz we crossed boundless plains, c e io Ni- 
 
 . ® kitzkoy. 
 
 without a single inclosure, until we came to 
 
FROM TULA 
 
 250 
 
 chap. Ceio Nikitskoy. The country around this place 
 ■ X ' , has, of late years, been much cultivated. For- 
 merly it resembled the rest of those deserts 
 which the Russians call steppes, so frequent south 
 of Woronetz. The soil here, notwithstanding its 
 recent desolate condition, consisted ol nearly 
 two feet of good black vegetable earth, lying 
 upon marl. The plants we observed in flower 
 on this day ( June fifth ) are all known in England ; 
 the Bird's-foot Trefoil, the Purple Mountain Milk 
 Vetch, the Germander, the Globe Flower , and the 
 Wood Anemone. Nikitskoy was once in a low 
 and swampy spot, and exceedingly unwhole- 
 some; but the inhabitants moved their village 
 to the more elevated situation it now holds; 
 and being too lazy to use the materials ol the 
 houses they had abandoned for their new settle- 
 ment, it was deemed expedient to set them on 
 fire. The flames, communicating to the peat, 
 whereof there is abundance near the place, 
 continued burning for six months with great 
 vehemence, in despite of all the efforts made to 
 extinguish them. The inhabitants now suffer 
 greatly, owing to a scarcity of fuel; yet they 
 make no endeavour to collect the peat, and to 
 dry it for their hearths. We saw here a curious 
 funeral ceremony. The lid of the coffin, formed 
 of one entire piece of wood scooped like a canoe, 
 was not put on till the deceased was laid in his 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 251 
 
 grave. They buried him in all his wearing chap. 
 apparel ; even with the labkas on his feet (which '■--y — ■' 
 were before described). Mead was carried to 
 the grave, to be drunk there, in a bowl with a 
 number of small wax bougies stuck around the 
 rim. The women kept up a kind of musical 
 ululation; howling their loud lamentations in 
 strains truly dolorous The rest of the atten- 
 dants, instead of joining in the dirge, or in the 
 other ceremonial rites, were occupied in crossing 
 themselves, and in prostrations towards the east, 
 bowing their heads until they touched with their 
 foreheads the other graves near to the place 
 of interment. The lid of the coffin was borne 
 first, covered with linen cloth ; after this fol- 
 lowed the lower part, containing the body; so 
 that it seemed as if two coffins were carried to 
 one grave. 
 
 We journeyed hence to Bolshoy Platy. Soon Bolshov 
 after passing this last village, we observed, 11 0 
 towards our left, the novel and pleasing appear- 
 ance of a fine wood : here we found that beauti- 
 ful plant the Convallaria mulliflora in full bloom, 
 near six feet in height, and flourishing luxuri- 
 antly. Afterwards we came to EJfremof; written Effremef. 
 
 (1) Homer’s account of the dirges sung by women at the funeral of 
 Hector proves the antiquity of this custom. , 
 
252 
 
 FROM TULA 
 
 chap, improperly Ieremow, in the Berlin edition of the 
 
 great Map of Russia. It is a small insignificant 
 
 town, upon a high hill; at the foot of which 
 flows a river falling into the Don, written Metscha, 
 and Mecza, but pronounced Mecka ; or Mdia, to 
 mark the aspirate more strongly. In a country 
 so uniform as that we were now traversing, much 
 interesting information cannot be expected. 
 The nature of the soil, its produce, the manners 
 and the dresses of the people, afford but few 
 remarks, and these are unimportant. Sterne 
 has humorously observed, that nothing puts a 
 writer of Travels to so much difficulty as the 
 sending him over an extensive plain. To 
 journey many leagues and say nothing, might 
 seem like inattention; but to write observations 
 of no moment, is less pardonable than any 
 omission. 
 
 Nicolai- We came to a place which it would be difficult 
 to express by any rule of orthography that 
 might convey an idea of the Russian mode of 
 pronunciation'. Afterwards, leaving the govern- 
 ment of Tula, we entered that of Orlof, as we 
 were informed ; but in the Berlin Map it is laid 
 
 (I) It may be written Nicolaijewka: then, if the ij be pronounced as 
 our y, and the w as an /, it becomes Nicolayefha, and this is perhaps 
 near the mark. 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 down as the government of Orel. The female ciiap. 
 
 costume hero is very singular. The caps of the v v — 
 
 women are triangular, having the vertex of the 
 triangle in front ; so that the base extends 
 behind, like two horns, which gives them a droll 
 appearance : they wear also a frock which 
 barely reaches to their knees. In their ears 
 they have large hoop rings, not unlike those 
 lately worn by ladies in London and Paris. 
 
 They had also pendants of pieces of metal at- 
 tached to a handkerchief or cap, which covered 
 the back part of their head. 
 
 Proceeding towards Celo Petrovskia Palnia, we Cel ° Pc - 
 
 # trovskia 
 
 were much surprised by a spectacle similar to Palma, 
 one that Bruce witnessed in Africa. We observed, 
 at a considerable distance, vertical columns 
 of sand, reaching, as it appeared, from the earth 
 to the clouds, and moving with amazing rapidity 
 along the horizon. Our servant, a Greek, and 
 a native of Constantinople , related an instance of 
 a child in the Ukraine, who was taken up by 
 one of such tornadoes, and, after being whirled 
 by it, had every limb broken in its fall. He 
 affirmed that he was an eye-witness of this extra- 
 ordinary accident. Passing this village, we 
 afterwards arrived at Eletz, or Ieletz, a large Eletz. 
 paved town of considerable extent, situate be- 
 tween the river whence its name has been 
 
FROM TULA 
 
 254 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 X. 
 
 derived, and the Sossna. This place was en- 
 tirely destroyed by fire in 1745, and since 
 rebuilt. It stands upon a lofty and steep hill, 
 and maintains a considerable commerce in 
 cattle and in corn. Agriculture here is in a very 
 flourishing stat , and the environs abound 
 with wood. The inhabitants consist of mer- 
 chants, artisans, Puschari and Streltzi. Its 
 merchandize is derived from Moscow and from 
 the Ukraine ; and it. carries on a great internal 
 trade, in the sale of honey and leather to the 
 people of the town and neighbourhood. The 
 number of persons belonging to the Crown, pay- 
 ing tribute, amounts to two thousand three 
 hundred and twenty-three. We observed seve- 
 ral forges at work; and found that the number 
 of smiths, and other artificers in iron alone, 
 equalled two hundred. Eletz is renowned for 
 the celebrity of its forges. Part of the iron is 
 derived from a mine near the village of Visnist- 
 
 denez; the whole district around which place, 
 • 
 
 for several versts in extent, exhibits a ferruginous 
 soil. Peasants raise the surface with spades, 
 until they reach the ore ; but as the superficies 
 forming the roof of the mine consists of clay and 
 sand, the sides of the apertures they make are 
 very liable to fall: therefore they form the 
 opening so narrow, that the work is carried on 
 with difficulty ; the operation being entirely in 
 
 3 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 2.55 
 
 shafts, without any level, or even inclined plane. 
 There are also in the vicinity of Udgino, upon 
 the eastern banks of the Don, mines of iron which 
 are now worked; but as they have hitherto 
 neglected the analysis of their ores, and, instead 
 of making any selection, mix the whole together 
 without the smallest attention to quality, the 
 metal turns out to be brittle, defective, and 
 altogether bad. In the forges of Tula, where 
 more caution is used in this respect, the iron is 
 of a very superior nature. 
 
 In the streets of Eletz we observed large 
 heaps of stone, for the purpose of building, 
 whereof the substance was porous, and per- 
 forated in all directions by a deposit of marine 
 animals. It resembled the kind of limestone 
 found on the banks of the Moscva, but was more 
 marked by impressions of organized bodies. 
 Visiting the high banks of the river near the 
 town, we found large masses of a similar deposit, 
 lying in regular strata 1 . Hereafter we shall 
 take occasion to shew, that such appearances 
 may be observed in all the great Oriental Plain, 
 inclined from the Aral, the Caspian, and the Sea 
 
 (>) We found here the Veronica Serpyllifolia, a Cineraria, which we 
 believed to be the Sibirica; and a new species of Gypsophila, grow- 
 ing with Geutn Itivale and Ranunculus Aurieomus. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 X. 
 
 ' 
 
FROM TULA 
 
 of Azof, towards the Black Sea ; authentic monu- 
 ments of a vast ocean, once covering the whole 
 of Tahtaky, whose diminished waters are still 
 effecting a further retreat, by the channels of 
 Constantinople and the Dardanelles. 
 
 A musical instrument, more common among 
 antient than modern nations, amused us in the 
 streets of Eletz : it consisted of two reeds, put 
 together into the mouth. The performer was a 
 blacksmith’s boy, who played several tunes. 
 The reeds were each about six inches in length, 
 and not thicker than a quill. Such were the tibia- 
 used in processions, as represented upon antient 
 bas-reliefs , in the fresco paintings of Herculaneum 
 and Pompeii, and upon terra-cotta vases found 
 in Grecian tombs. 
 
 From Eletz we continued our journey, through 
 Zadonctz. the village of Ezvoly, to Zadonetz. In all this 
 route we were continually met by caravans from 
 the Don, the Crimea, and other parts of the 
 South of Russia. These caravans formed a train 
 of waggons, thirty or forty in number, laden with 
 dried fish, brandy, wool, corn, &c. Sometimes they 
 consisted of cattle only; coius of an ash colour, 
 horses, goats, sheep, and hogs, all moving in the. 
 same promiscuous herd, accompanied by Malo- 
 Russians, Cossacks, and by other inhabitants of 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 Malo-Russia and the Ukraine. At a short 
 distance from Zadonetz, we crossed the Don by 
 a ferry. This river exhibited a broad, clear, 
 and rapid current. The town stands upon a hill 
 above it, and originally formed one of a line of 
 forts, erected from this place to Zaritzin, to pre- 
 vent the incursions of the Tahtars and Cossacks. 
 It has now a superintendant, or Gorodnilch ; and 
 appears, like the other towns through which we 
 passed, to be in a thriving condition. In all of 
 them new houses were building, and the appear- 
 ance of activity promised improvement. 
 
 From Zadonetz, our journey conducted us 
 through the sweetest country imaginable, co- 
 vered with woods full of flowers, fruit-trees, 
 and a number of plants, plainly indicating an 
 approach to warmer climates. Apple and other 
 fruit trees sprouted wild, among young oaks, and 
 other vegetable productions not found nearer 
 to the North Pole. The modern name of the 
 Tandis will perhaps not meet the Reader’s atten- 
 tion so readily, in the compound word Zadonetz, 
 as if written Zadonsk ; in which manner it appears 
 in the best maps. We have imitated the mode 
 of pronunciation as nearly as possible. Donetz 
 and Donsk are both names of the Don. Farther 
 to the south, and nearer to the mouths of the 
 river, an appellation given to a tributary stream 
 
 vol. t. 
 
 257 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 X. 
 
 s 
 
258 
 
 FROM TULA 
 
 chap, is sometimes Danaetz or Danaets, and Tdanaets ; 
 
 ' — v — j hence the transition to Tanais is not very equi- 
 vocal ; nor can much doubt be entertained 
 concerning the origin of the appellation bestowed 
 by the Antients upon the river. In what a 
 variety of languages has this word Don, with 
 its roots and ramifications, been used to signify 
 a river, a lake, or cities near the mouths of 
 rivers! Don, Donets, Dun, Den, Dan, Danau, Tan, 
 Tane, Ain, An, En, See. &c. Thus we have 
 Jordan ; Tarns, a name of Sais, on the Nile; 
 Tan y bwlcli, in Wales; Danube; Thames', 
 Ain, and Coleram, in the north of Ireland ; 
 E den, in the same country; Tyne ; and many 
 others. 
 
 Celo As we advanced through Celo Chlebnoy, we 
 
 chkimuj. ^gheld, a j. a distance upon our right hand, the 
 Don, rolling in a very majestic and devious 
 course, while the full moon cast her light upon 
 its waters. We halted for the night at a place 
 Bestmrevka. called Bestuzevha, almost a solitary hut in the 
 midst of wide plains ; and we were somewhat 
 struck by the singular manner in which a pea- 
 sant cautioned us not to sleep there, but by all 
 means to proceed another stage. Trifling 
 circumstances of this kind often excite the 
 suspicious fear of travellers ; and in this lonely 
 situation we were puzzled by conjectures. 
 
TO WORONETZ. 
 
 259 
 
 whether an attempt were made to lead us into, 
 or out of, a snare : it ended, however, like many 
 such adventures, in nothing. 
 
 The next morning, June the seventh, we travelled 
 very expeditiously through Celo Staroy Ivotinskoy , 
 to the town of Woronf.tz, situate upon a river Wotonet*. 
 of the same name, near to the spot where it falls 
 into the Don. 
 
 chap. 
 
 x. 
 
CHAP. XI. 
 
 FROM WOEONETZ, TO THE TERRITORY CF THE 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Present state of Woronetz — Climate and productions — 
 Garden of I’bter the Great — Inundation and Pro- 
 duct of the Rivers — Increase of Buildings — Arsenal — 
 Commerce, internal and external — Wine of the Don — 
 Change of Manners, and of Features — Neglect of 
 Drowned Persons — Tumuli — Male- Russians — Plains 
 South of Woronetz — Celo Usman ij — P odulak Moscov- 
 slioy — Mojoclts, Eliortzy, and Ieslakovo — Locova Sb- 
 loda — Paulovskoy — Plants — Animals — Trade — Rush 
 conduct of a young Peasant — Kazinskoy Chutor — Niz- 
 ney Momon — Dolrinka — Metscha — Kasankaia , first 
 Stanitza of the Don Cossacks. 
 
 C XL I n the reign of Peter the Great, when that 
 
 * ' monarch came to Woronetz to build his first 
 
WORONETZ. 
 
 261 
 
 ship of war, there were scarcely an hundred c "j P ' 
 
 wooden huts in the place. It is now a very v — 
 
 handsome town; and its commerce entitles it state of 
 to considerable distinction. By means of the 
 Don, it possesses an easy intercourse with the 
 Black Sf,a. Every year, vessels go laden to 
 Tcherchask with corn ; accomplishing their voy- 
 age in about two months. In winter they re- 
 ceive merchandize, by sledges, from the Crimea 
 and from Turkey. Its merchants travel into 
 Siberia for furs, and then carry them even to 
 the fairs of Francfort. The Russian Isvostchich 
 is seen at a German fair, and the same person 
 may be found in the remotest parts of Siberia. 
 Sometimes they pursue their course to the coasts 
 opposite to England, and buy English hardware, 
 cottons, Japan ware, Ike. with which they travel 
 to all parts of Russia. 
 
 Woronktz, from its remarkable situation, is climate 
 
 and pro- 
 
 particularly qualified to become a great capital, auctions. 
 It is placed so as to enjoy the advantages both 
 of warm and of cold climates, and it holds an 
 intercourse with all parts of the empire. Nature 
 is so bountiful here in the summer, that plants 
 found in very southern latitudes grow almost 
 spontaneously. The JVater-Melon, rarely in per- 
 fection anywhere, is as common at Woronet z 
 as the cucumber in England, and it flourishes in 
 the open air, with spicy and aromatic herbs. 
 
WORONETZ. 
 
 Yet the inhabitants experience very great ex- 
 tremes of temperature ; having sometimes, ac- 
 cording to the thermometer of Reaumur, thirty 
 degrees of cold in the winter, and twenty-eight 
 degrees of heat' in the summer. They use the 
 precaution of double casements to their win- 
 dows, as at Moscow and Petersburg, and have 
 very large stoves in all their apartments. In 
 the “ Journal des Savans V yyageurs," published 
 at Berne in 1792, a commentator attempts to 
 explain the cause of the extraordinary difference 
 observed in the productions of the climate and 
 soil of Woronetz, when compared with those of 
 other countries in the same latitude ; by saying 
 that the nature of the soil necessarily supplies 
 that which the climate would not otherwise af- 
 ford 2 . The earth is strongly impregnated with 
 nitrat of potass in all the environs of Woronetz ; 
 and it is to the presence of this mineral that the 
 extraordinary fertility of the Ukraine has been 
 attributed. The whole country south of Tula 
 abounds with it; insomuch that it sometimes 
 effloresces on the soil ; and several fabrics for ex- 
 tracting it have been established. The immediate 
 soil below the town of Woronetz is sand ; upon 
 
 (l) Equal to ninety-five of Fahrenheit. 
 
 (1) See Note to p. 116. Voyages chez les Peoples Kalmouks el les 
 Tartares. 
 
WORONETZ. 
 
 a steep mound or bank of which it has been r ” 
 built. It lies in the fifty-fourth degree of north- ' — ■ 
 ern latitude. The vineyards of Europe termi- 
 nate many degrees nearer to the equator, and 
 yet the wild vine flourishes at IVoronetz. The 
 inhabitants neglect its cultivation; importing 
 their wine, at a great expense, from the country 
 of the Don Cossacks , from Greece, and from the 
 Crimea. It frequently happens in the province 
 of Champagne, in France, that the grapes do not 
 attain their maturity ; sugar is then used as a 
 substitute in the preparation of the Champagne 
 wine \ At Woronelz, where every facility for 
 
 (3) The Champagne wine has been imitated in England, w ith success, 
 by using gooseberries before they ripen, and by supplying the want of 
 the saccharine acid with loaf-sugar. If the process he properly at- 
 tended to, there is very little difference. Both are artificial compounds. 
 The common Champagne wine drunk in this country is made with green 
 grapes and sugar. The imitation of it, with green gooseberries and 
 sugar, is full as salutary, and frequently as palatable. (Note to the 
 First Edition.) Since this Mote appeared, a French translation of these 
 Travels has been published at Paris, with Additional Notes “par le 
 Tradueteur.” Alluding to these observations respecting the Cham- 
 pagne wine, he says, “ C’est sans doute par un sentiment de patriot- 
 isme, et. pour degoftter ses compatriotes du vin de Champagne, que 
 leDocteur Clarke se permet de basarder de parcilles assertions. Croit- 
 >1 que le fill de Champagne sc fasse avee du sucre et des raisins verts ou 
 des groseilles, et qu'un semblable melange puisse passer, memc cn 
 Angleterrc, pour un analogue des vins d' A'f et d'EpcmaiV * 
 
 It so happens, that the author's information respecting the Cham- 
 pagne wine does not at all depend upon any conjectures he may have 
 formed : it is the result of inquiries which he made upon the spot, and 
 of positive communication, (relative to the chemical constituents “des 
 
2(54 
 
 WORONETZ. 
 
 CI xi P ' ^teblishing extensive vineyards has been offered 
 
 — > by Nature, the cultivation of the vine has been 
 
 entirely neglected. Gvielin endeavoured to 
 make the inhabitants sensible of the importance 
 and advantage the town might derive from the 
 
 vins d'/ll et d'Epernai") from Messrs. Moett and Company , the princi- 
 pal persons concerned in their fabrication. It was in the town of 
 Epernai, whither the author repaired for information upon this sub- 
 ject, that, in answer to some written questions proposed to Mons. Moett, 
 the following statement was given by that gentleman touching the ad- 
 mission of sugar into the composition of their wine: 
 
 “ Ue'ponse a la 3 m ' question : “ sur les Corps Strangers, tels que le 
 sucre que peuvent entrer dans la fabrication du vin l — 
 
 “ Peut-fitre regarderoit-on en Champagne comme uue indiscretion, 
 la rAponse it cette question, puisque la revelation de ce qu’on appelle 
 le secret du I'iioprietatiu: pourroit nuire it la reputation des vins de 
 Champagne ; mais les hommes instruits et AclairAs doivent connoltre 
 les faits et les causes, parcequ’ils savent apprecier et cn tira les justes 
 consequences. 
 
 “ II est trAs vrai que dans les annees froides ou pluvieuscs le raisin 
 li'ayaut pas acquis assez de maturite, ou ayant ctd prive de la chaleur 
 du soleil, les vins n’ont plus cette liqueur douce et aimable qui les, 
 characterise : dans ce cas quelques propriAtaires y ont supplee par 
 1'introduction dans leur vins d’uuc liqueur trAs eclaire don r la base 
 est necessairement nu sucre; sa fabrication est un secret; cette 
 liqueur mcslec en trAs petits quantity aux vim verts, eorrige le vice de 
 I'annde et leur donue absolument la mime douceur que celle que pro- 
 cure le soleil dans les annfes chaudes. 11 s’est Alev A en Champagne mtime 
 des frequent es querelles entre des connoisseurs qui pretendment pouvoir 
 distinguer au gaiit, la liqueur artificielle de celle qui est naturelle, mais 
 e’est une chi mere. Le sucre produit dans le raisin, comme dans toute 
 espiice de fruit, par le travail de la nature, est toujours du sucre, comme 
 celui que l’art pourroit y introduire, lorsque 1’intemperance des saisons 
 les en a privA. Nous nous sommes plus trhs souvent 11 mettre en defaut 
 V experience de ces prdtendus connoisseurs, et il est si rare de les voir 
 rencontrer juste, que l’ou peut croire que e'est le hazard plusquc leur 
 go lit qui les a guide.” 
 
WORONETZ. 
 
 265 
 
 growth of vines ; but hitherto no attention has CHA1> - 
 been paid to his advice. The delicious wine of 1 — v — 
 the territory of the Don Cossacks is sold here,, 
 but at very high prices. They serve it with a 
 plate of ice, a piece of which is put into each 
 glass when the wine is drunk. It is light and 
 pleasant, effervescing like the wine of Cham- 
 pagne, but having more the flavour of Burgundy. 
 
 Peter the Great endeavoured to establish harden of 
 
 Pete >* the 
 
 a Botanic Garden in the neighbourhood of JVoro- Great - 
 netz, upon a very grand scale. This we visited; 
 and found a complete wilderness of oaks and 
 other forest-trees, the underwood growing so 
 thick under the larger trees as to render a 
 passage through it impracticable. This garden 
 was expressly formed for the growth of use- 
 ful plants, fruit-trees, vegetables, and what- 
 soever else might be found likely to answer 
 the purposes of culture in such a climate : 
 but after all the pains bestowed upon its insti- 
 tution, it fell into neglect ; like many other de- 
 signs calculated by that wise monarch for the 
 benefit ot his people, when his power ceased of 
 enforcing the care of them. Gmelin relates', 
 that, in his time, the Governor of IVoronetz 
 exerted all possible means to restore this garden 
 
 (l) Journal des Savans Voyagcurs, p. 114. 
 
266 
 
 WORONETZ. 
 
 chap. t () original order ; and the consequence was, 
 
 % > that a variety of fruit-trees, particularly the 
 
 vine, the chesnut, and the filbert, produced abun- 
 dant crops. Saffron flourished in great plenty, 
 and many other plants peculiar to warmer cli- 
 mates. The cherry, the apple, and the pear tree, 
 grew wild in the forests around the town ; but 
 their better cultivation, as at present, was en- 
 tirely neglected by the people. We found two 
 plants, very rare in England, thriving among 
 the weeds of the place; the “ Spreading Bell- 
 flower ’ ( Campanula palu/a), which grows in South 
 Wales and near Marlborough; and also the “ Moun- 
 tain Bugle” (Ajuga pyramidalis ). The other 
 
 plants which we collected in the neighbourhood 
 inundation 0 f Woronetz are given in a Note 1 . Stagnant 
 
 and Pro- ° . 
 
 duct of the waters, left by the annual inundation of the river, 
 render the place very unwholesome during cer- 
 tain seasons of the year. The inhabitants, both 
 in spring and autumn, are subject to tertian and 
 quartan fevers : these become epidemic, and at- 
 tack hundreds at the same time. The want of 
 proper remedies for such disorders, and the con- 
 stant use of salted provisions, frequently cause 
 the ague to degenerate into a continual fever, a 
 
 (l) Polygonum Fagopy rum — Adonis aestivalis — Cueubalus Behen — 
 A new species of Euphorbia — Salvia nutans — Verbascum Phceniciiun 
 — Chelidonium minus— Ranunculus Illyricus— Viola tricolor. 
 
WORONETZ. 
 
 dropsy, or a consumption. Both the Woronetz 
 and the Don supply the inhabitants of all this 
 country with an astonishing quantity of fishes ; 
 carp being the most abundant : but they have 
 also tench, sterlet., Irream, bleak, trout, lamprey, 
 perch, and pike. The last absolutely swarm in 
 their rivers, and grow to a prodigious size ; but 
 it is only the poorer class of people who use it 
 for food. When Nature is profuse in her offer- 
 ings, the love of novelty induces us to contemn, 
 and even to reject, her bounty. 
 
 The change of season, as at Moscow, does not 
 take place at Woronetz with that uncertainty 
 which characterizes our climate. Winter regu- 
 larly begins in December, and ends in the middle 
 of March. According to Gmelin , the autumn 
 resembles a moderate summer. Vegetation is 
 so rapid during spring, that upon the ninth of 
 June we saw a pear-tree which had put forth a 
 strong scion above a yard in length. We found 
 the climate so different from that to which we had 
 been lately accustomed, that we were compelled 
 to alter our clothing altogether 2 3 . The beams of 
 the sun were to us intolerable ; and a south-east 
 
 (2) It is not necessary to mention the precise height of the mercury 
 
 ,n the thermometer , because the Reader will find it stated in th eAppcn- 
 according to the most accurate daily observation throughout the 
 journey. 
 
268 
 
 WOIIONETZ. 
 
 chap, wind, like a Sirocco, blew frequently and even 
 
 v— - t — - tempestuously ; causing insufferable heat, dur- 
 ing the time we remained. The only method 
 we had of cooling our apartments was, by shut- 
 ting the windows, and drawing curtains over 
 them. Perhaps the sudden transition we had 
 made from colder countries might have rendered 
 us more peculiarly sensible of the oppressive 
 heat of the atmosphere. 
 
 BiSdtogs° f New buildings were rising in all parts of Wo- 
 ronetz ; and the suburbs appeared so extensive, 
 that i,t was very difficult to form any correct 
 idea of the probable future extent of the place. 
 It was evident that a junction would soon take 
 place between the town and its suburbs ; and 
 we were informed that a village or two would 
 also be included. It stands upon the very lofty, 
 steep, and sloping bank before mentioned, hav- 
 ing the appearance of a rampart ; so that, when 
 viewed from the river below, this bank looks 
 like a prodigious artificial fortification. Doubt- 
 less it might be rendered a place of very great 
 strength, as there are no eminences that could 
 command the works on its weakest side. Small 
 lanterns, dispersed about upon posts, serve to 
 light the town. The streets are very wide. 
 
 Arsenal, without being paved. The arsenal erected by 
 Peter the Great still remains, although in a 
 
WORONETZ. 
 
 269 
 
 ruinous condition. We visited the little sandy 
 island below the town whereon he built his first v, 
 ship of war, when he projected the conquest of 
 the Black Sea. It is now covered with store- 
 houses, caldrons, and tubs, for the preparation 
 of tallow : this is a great article of trade here : 
 it is sent to England, and to America, in vast 
 quantities. The principal merchant, happening 
 to be upon the spot, asked us, to what use the 
 English could possibly appropriate all the grease 
 he sent to their country. The stench from the 
 bones and horns of animals, slaughtered for the 
 purpose of preparing the tallow, made this 
 place exceedingly offensive. It formerly exhi- 
 bited a more pleasing spectacle, when Peter, 
 acting in the double capacity of a king and a 
 carpenter, superintended his works upon this 
 island. He built a small wooden hut, and a 
 church, opposite to the arsenal, on the side of 
 the river, immediately below the town ; and the 
 greatest monarch in the world, surrounded by 
 a few hovels, in a land of savage people ac*- 
 customed only to their rafts and canoes, was 
 daily seen in the midst of his workmen, upon 
 a little mound of sand, building his first ship 
 of war. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XI. 
 
 Iron is one of the principal articles of trade Commerce 
 
 . 1 1 , internal Sc 
 
 m the town, and occupies the chief commerce external. 
 
VVORONETZ. 
 
 of the shops. They also manufacture cloth for 
 the army ; aud have a building for the prepara- 
 tion of vitriol. Large balls of whiting are piled 
 up before their doors, as in Moscow, Tula, and 
 other places. The cloth factory was established 
 by Peter the Great, and is the most consi- 
 derable in Russia. Peter resided here in the 
 year 1705 ; and at the same time was also 
 engaged in building Petersburg. In the pre- 
 paration of tallow, they consume the cattle of 
 the country, and, boiling them down, make two 
 sorts. The first sort is exported to England; 
 the second used in Russia, in making soap. Ten 
 pouds of the best quality sells sometimes ' in 
 Petersburg as high as sixty-three roubles. The 
 carriage from IVoronetz to Petersburg costs about 
 eighty copeeks per poud. If the merchants con- 
 tract with English dealers in Petersburg to the 
 amount of one hundred thousand roubles, they 
 Receive from them fifty thousand in advance, to 
 enable them to buy cattle. This practice of 
 purchasing cattle to boil into tallow has, of late 
 years, enormously advanced the price of meat. 
 Fourteen years ago, a poud of beef sold in 
 IVoronetz for twenty-six copeeks ; a. poud of mutton 
 for thirty : now the poud of beef costs two roubles, 
 and the poud of mutton sixty copeeks. In return 
 for the corn carried annually to Tcherkask and 
 to Azof they bring back raisins, figs, Greek wines, 
 
WORONETZ. 
 
 ancl the wine of the Don Cossacks. The salt 
 consumed in Woroneiz is supplied from a re- 
 markable salt lake in the neighbourhood of 
 Saratof, so impregnated with the muriate of soda , 
 that fine crystals of it form upon any substance 
 placed in the water. St/gar is very dear ; it is 
 brought only from Petersburg. The necessaries 
 of life, however, are, generally speaking, cheap. 
 The carriers of IVoronetz go every three years 
 to Tobolsk]) in Siberia, where there is a rendez- 
 vous for all caravans bound to Kiatha, on the 
 frontier of China. From Tobolsky they form one 
 immense caravan to Kiatha. Afterwards, return- 
 ing to Tobolsky, they disperse, according to their 
 several routes. From Siberia they bring furs ; 
 from Kiatha, Chinese merchandize of all sorts, 
 tea, raw and manufactured silk, porcelain, and 
 precious stones. The Chinese, upon their arrival 
 at Kiatha, also furnish them with the produc- 
 tions of Kamchatka, brought from St. Peter and 
 St. Paul. Thus laden, many of the caravans set 
 out for Francfort, and return with muslin, cambric, 
 silks, the porcelain of Saxony, and other goods 
 from the manufactures of England. 
 
 Four men, with their captain, offered to take 
 us by water to Tcherchask for two hundred and 
 fifty roubles, including the necessary purchase of 
 boats, anchors, sails, oars, &c. But the river 
 
272 
 
 WORONETZ. 
 
 chap, is so shallow during summer, that we should 
 ; have been two months in getting thither; the 
 distance being fifteen hundred versts. The best 
 wine of wine of the Don is made upon the river, about 
 three hundred versts before arriving at Tcherchask 
 from Woronetz. Fourteen bottles sell there for 
 one rouble and fifty copeehs. They are apt to 
 make it before the grape ripens ; and perhaps 
 this may be the case with all wine exhibiting 
 effervescence'. Their white wine proves better 
 than the red, when the fruit is suffered to ripen ; 
 but this very rarely happens. 
 
 change of Approaching the Southern part of the empire, 
 Manners. strong characteristics of the Russian people 
 are less frequently observed. Happily for the 
 traveller, in proportion as his distance is in- 
 creased from that which has been erroneously 
 considered the civilized part of the country, he 
 has less to complain of theft, of fraud, and of 
 dissimulation 1 2 . In the more Northern provinces, 
 he is cautioned to beware of the inhabitants of 
 
 (1) See the Note upon Champagne wine in a former page of this 
 Chapter. 
 
 (2) “ The Russian peasant, without property, without religion, with- 
 out morals, without honour, is hospitable, humane, obliging, gay, 
 faithful, and brave : the farther you penetrate into the country remote 
 from cities, the better you lind him ; the most savage is always the 
 best.” Secret Mem. of the Court of Petersb. p. 266. 
 
VVORONETZ. 
 
 the Ukraine, and the Cossacks, by an unprincipled 
 race of men, with whom the Cossack and 
 the Tahtar are degraded in comparison. The 
 chambers of our inn were immediately over the 
 town jail ; and it is quite unnecessary to add of 
 what nation its tenants were composed. The 
 Russian finds it dangerous to travel in the Ukraine, 
 and along the Don, because he is conscious the 
 inhabitants of these countries know too well 
 with whom they have to deal. The Cossack, 
 when engaged in war, and remote from his 
 native land, is a robber, because plunder is a 
 part of the military discipline in which he has 
 been educated ; but when a stranger enters the 
 district where he resides with his family and 
 connections, and confides property to his care, 
 the inhabitant of no country is found either 
 more hospitable, or more honourable. Concern- 
 ing the inhabitants of the country called Malo- 
 Russia, a French gentleman, who had long resided 
 among them, assured us he used neither locks 
 to his doors nor to his coffers ; and among the 
 Cossacks, as in Sweden, a trunk may be sent un- 
 locked, for a distance equal to five hundred 
 miles, without risking the loss of any part of 
 its contents. Mr. Rowan, banker of Moscow, was 
 compelled, by the breaking of his carriage, to 
 abandon it in the midst of the territory of the 
 Don Cossacks ; and it was afterwards brought 
 
FROM WORONETZ 
 
 274 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XI. 
 
 ' * > 
 
 Change of 
 Features. 
 
 Neglect of 
 
 drowned 
 
 Persons. 
 
 safe to him at Taganrog, with all its appurte- 
 nances, by the unsolicited and disinterested 
 labour of that people’. Who would venture to 
 leave a carriage, or even a trunk, although en- 
 cased, doubly locked, and duly directed, among 
 the Russians ? 
 
 From the time we left Tula, a remarkable 
 change was visible in the features of the people : 
 this we were unable to explain. The peasants 
 had frequently the straight yellow hair of the 
 inhabitants of Finland, and the same light com- 
 plexion ; neither resembling Russians, Poles, nor 
 Cossacks. At Woronetz the Gipsey tribe was 
 very prevalent; and a mixed race, resulting 
 from their intermarriage with Russians. 
 
 The horrid practice of burying persons alive 
 sometimes takes place in Russia, from the igno- 
 rance of the inhabitants. Instances of suspended 
 animation, occasioned by the vapour of their 
 stoves, or by accidents in water, are always 
 considered lost cases ; and the unhappy sufferer 
 is immediately committed to the grave, without 
 any attempt towards recovery. They send 
 
 (l) Of this fact we were assured by Mr. Rowan himself, to whom 
 we were iudebted for many instances of politeness and attention during: 
 the time we resided in Moscow. 
 
TO PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 only for a police-officer, to note down the cir- 
 cumstances of the disaster; and, without the 
 smallest effort towards restoring respiration, 
 proceed in the ceremony of interment. A poor 
 woman in bathing, during our stay at Woro- 
 netz, fell beyond her depth. She struggled 
 some time with the stream, and, being carried 
 by it about three hundred yards, was taken out 
 by some peasants before she had either sunk or 
 lost her power of motion. When laid on the 
 earth, she groaned and moved ; but the water 
 which had been swallowed rendered her face 
 black, and she became apparently lifeless. She 
 was therefore immediately pronounced to be 
 really dead. No endeavour on our part, ac- 
 companied by persuasion and by offers of 
 money, could induce the spectators either to 
 touch the body, or to suffer any remedy to be 
 attempted towards her recovery. They seemed 
 afraid to approach what they considered as a 
 corpse. In vain we explained to them the 
 process by which persons, so circumstanced, 
 are restored to life in England. They stood at 
 a distance, crossing themselves, and shaking 
 their heads ; and in this manner the poor wo- 
 man was left upon the shore, until it would 
 have been too late to have made use of any 
 means for her recovery. If she were not after- 
 wards buried alive, her death was certainly 
 
FROM WORONETZ 
 
 owing to a shameful and an obstinate neglect 
 of remedies, which, in her case, promised every 
 success. The police-officer gave in his me- 
 morial, and her body was committed to the 
 grave. 
 
 We left JVoronetz, June 12th; crossing the 
 river at the bottom of the town, and entering 
 plains as before. The swamps below Woronetz 
 at once explain the cause of the annual fevers 
 to which its inhabitants are liable : they exhale, 
 during warm seasons, vapours as unwhole- 
 some as those which arise from the fens of 
 
 Italy. 
 
 There are few finer prospects than that of 
 Woronetz, viewed a few versts from the town, 
 on the road to Paulovskoy. Throughout the 
 whole of this country are seen, dispersed over 
 immense plains, mounds of earth covered with 
 a fine turf; the sepulchres of the antient world, 
 common to almost every habitable country. If 
 there exist any thing of former times, which 
 may afford monuments of primeval manners, 
 it is this mode of burial. They seem to mark 
 the progress of mankind in the first ages after 
 the dispersion ; rising wherever the posterity 
 of Noah came. Whether under the form of a 
 Mound in Scandinavia, in Russia, or in North 
 
 2 76 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XI. 
 
TO PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 America l ; a Barrow in England; a Cairn in 
 Wales, in Scotland, or in Ireland; or of those 
 heaps which the modern Greeks and Turks call 
 Tepe; or, lastly, in the more artificial shape of 
 a Pyramid in Egypt; they had universally the 
 same origin. They present the simplest and 
 sublimest monument that any generation of 
 men could raise over the bodies of their fore- 
 fathers; being calculated for almost endless 
 duration, and speaking a language more im- 
 pressive than the most studied epitaph upon 
 Parian marble. When beheld in a distant 
 evening horizon, skirted by the rays of the set- 
 ting sun, and, as it were, touching the clouds 
 which hover over them, imagination represents 
 the spirits of departed heroes as descending to 
 irradiate a warrior’s grave 2 . Some of those 
 mounds appeared with forms so simple, and yet 
 so artificial, in a plain otherwise level, that no 
 doubt whatsoever could be entertained con- 
 cerning their origin. Others, more antient, 
 have at last sunk into the earth, and left a 
 hollow place, encircled by a kind of fosse, which 
 
 (0 Sec the Journal of a Tour into the Territory North-west of the 
 ■Alleghany Mountains, by Tluiddeus Mason Harris: Boston, 1805; for 
 a very curious account of the Sepulchral Mounds in America; the 
 history of which is lost, as the author expresseth it, “ in the oblivion of 
 ages." 
 
 (2) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
FROM WORONETZ 
 
 still marks their situation. Again, others, by 
 the passage of the plough annually upon their 
 surface, have been considerably diminished. 
 These Tumuli are the Sepulchres referred to 
 by Herodotus, in the earliest accounts which 
 history has recorded of this mode of burial*. 
 The tombs of the Scythian kings are said, by 
 him, to exist in the remotest parts of Scythia, 
 where the Borysthenes is first known to be navi- 
 gable; and they are further described as being 
 constructed precisely according to the appear- 
 ance they now exhibit. 
 
 We frequently met with caravans of the 
 Malo- Russians, who differ altogether from the 
 inhabitants of the rest of Russia. Their fea- 
 tures are those of the Polonese, or Cossacks. 
 They are a more noble race; stouter and 
 better looking than the Russians, and superior 
 to them in every thing that can exalt one class 
 of men above another. They are cleaner, more 
 industrious, more honest, more generous, more 
 polite, more courageous, more hospitable, more 
 truly pious, and, of course, less superstitious. 
 Their language only differs from the Russian, 
 as the dialect of the southern provinces of France 
 does from the dialect spoken near Paris. They 
 
 (1) Herodot. Melporn. c. 71. 
 
TO PAULQVSKOY. 279 
 
 have in many instances converted the desolate CIP ) P - 
 steppe* into fields of corn. Their caravans are ' — ¥ — > 
 drawn by oxen, which proceed about thirty 
 versts in a day. Towards evening, they halt in 
 the middle of a plain, near some pool of water; 
 when their little waggons are all drawn up into 
 a circle, and their cattle are suffered to graze 
 around them; while the drivers, stretched out 
 upon the smooth turf, take their repose, or 
 enjoy their pipes, after the toil and heat of the 
 day. If they meet a carriage, they all take off 
 their caps and bow. The meanest Russians 
 bow to each other, but never to a stranger. 
 
 South of JVoronetz we found the country 
 perfectly level, and the roads (if a fine turf trormetx, 
 lawn may be so denominated) the finest, at 
 this season, perhaps in the whole world. The 
 turf upon winch we travelled was smooth and 
 firm, without a stone or a pebble, or even the 
 mark of wheels, and we experienced little or no 
 dust. Nothing could be more delightful than 
 this part of our journey. The whole of these 
 
 (2) Steppe, is the name given, in the South of Russia, to those plains, 
 which, though capable of cultivation, have never been tilled. They 
 are covered with wild plants ; and sometimes, perhaps improperly, 
 called deserts. In America, similar plains are called Prairies. 
 
280 
 
 FROM WORONETZ 
 
 chap, immense plains were enamelled with the 
 
 Alt i 
 
 < — rm — / greatest variety of flowers imaginable. The 
 list of plants we collected is much too 
 numerous for the text 1 . The earth seemed 
 covered with the richest and most beautiful 
 blossoms, fragrant, aromatic, and, in many 
 instances, entirely new to the eye of a British 
 traveller. Even during the heat of the day, 
 refreshing breezes wafted a thousand odours, 
 and all the air was perfumed. The skylark 
 was in full song; various insects, with painted 
 wings, either filled the air, or were seen 
 couched within the blossoms. Advancing near 
 to the Don, turtle-doves, as tame as domestic 
 pigeons, flew around our carriage. The pools 
 were filled with wild-fowl; dogs, like those of 
 the Abruzzo Mountains, guarded the numerous 
 herds and flocks passing or grazing. Melons 
 of different sorts flourished in the cultivated 
 
 (l) Androsace Septentrionalis — Centauria myriocephala — Stipa pen- 
 •nata — Cerastium — Lithrum Virgatum—Asclrpias Vineetoxicum — Lark- 
 spur, Delphinium Ajacis — Vic'ut Pannonica. Also the following, well 
 known in England: Meadow Clary, Salvia pratemis — Gnaphalium 
 dioieum — Wood Crane's-bill, Geranium sylvaticum — Gevm Urbanum — 
 Mouse-ear Scorpion Grass, Myasotis Scorpioides — Cucubalus Otites 
 (grows on Newmarket Ilcath) — Sisymbrium amphtbium (along the 
 banks of the Cam) — Yellow Rocket, Bitter Winter Grass, Erysimum 
 barbaria. 
 
TO PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 281 
 
 although uninclosed grounds near the villages, chap. 
 covering several acres of land. i 
 
 At Celo Usmany we were employed in col- Ceio Us- 
 lecting plants. The Echium rubrum, falsely ” 
 called Italicum by Gmelin, we first noticed 
 about this place, and it was afterwards very 
 common. It grows chiefly among corn. The 
 women of the Don use it in painting their 
 cheeks ; the root, when fresh, yielding a beau- 
 tiful vermilion tint. The peasants also extract 
 from it a gum. It is engraven in the “ Journal 
 des Savans Voyageurs.” Gmelin recommended 
 its transplantation, and the application of its 
 colouring properties to objects of more im- 
 portance. We observed also the Spircra Jilipen- 
 dula, which is found upon the Hills near 
 Cambridge, and some varieties of the Centaurea; 
 also the Onosma echio'ides, Veronica Austriaca, 
 Pedicularis tuberosa, and Salvia pratensis. It is 
 from the root of the Onosma that the Tahtar 
 women obtain their rouge. 
 
 Usmany is entirely inhabited by Russians .* 
 and whenever this is the case, towards the 
 south of the empire, a village resembles no- 
 thing more than a number of stacks of straw 
 °r of dried weeds. The female peasants were 
 seated upon the turf, before their huts, spinning. 
 
;S2 FROM WORONETZ 
 
 chap. Their macliines are not quite so simple as those 
 _ ~ , j used, in many parts of Italy. They consisted 
 of wooden combs, placed upon a stick driven 
 into the ground, to contain the flax, and not 
 rising higher than the knee : while the right 
 hand is employed in spinning, the left manages 
 the spindle. This manner. of living affords a 
 striking contrast to the Government that op- 
 presses them ; for we observed an air of liberty 
 in these wild and wide plains, ill suited to the 
 reflections we had before made on the general 
 condition of the peasants. The severity of the 
 winter here is hardly reconcileable with the 
 appearance of a country abounding in plants 
 which arc found in warm climates: yet the 
 snow annually affords a sledge-road, the whole 
 way from the Gulph of Finland, to the Sea of 
 Azof. 
 
 Pnduiot From Celo Usmany we travelled, over similar 
 tlTy. 0V ' plains, to Poduloli Moscovskoy, where we passed 
 the night in a wretched village, the miserable 
 inhabitants of which were not even able to light 
 a candle. Nothing could be more revolting 
 than the sight of their hovels, open to all the 
 inclemencies of the weather, and destitute 
 of every comfort or common convenience 
 of life. They were said to be settlers from 
 Tver. 
 
 3 
 
TO PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 283 
 
 The next morning, (June 13th), we passed the c ” ) p - 
 village of Mojochs, and came to Ekortzy : here ' — v — 
 we halted to take some refreshment under a Ekortvy, 
 pent-house, upon a khabitha; the heat of the tZJ.' s ‘ a 
 sun being almost insupportable. The people 
 were kind ; and a coarse meal became, on that 
 account, agreeable. We perceived, as it has 
 been before remarked, that the farther we ad- 
 vanced from the ordinary hordes of the Russians, 
 the more politeness and hospitality we experi- 
 enced; this being, however, exactly the reverse 
 of the information given to us by the inhabitants 
 of Moscow. The deserts, as they were described, 
 instead of proving a bare and sandy waste, 
 presented verdant lawns, covered with herbage, 
 though sometimes dry, and scorched by the 
 rays of a very powerful sun. 
 
 Near to Ekortzy we added the Verbascum 
 Phcenicium to our herbary: and between Ekortzy 
 and lestakovo, upon a high, bleak, chalky soil, 
 we found the rarest plants which occurred 
 during our whole route; Dral-a Alpina, and 
 Polygala Sibirica. Professor Pallas could hardly 
 credit the evidence of his senses, when he after- 
 wards saw them among our collection in the 
 Crimea. Near the same spot we also observed 
 that beautiful plant, the Clematis integrifolia, 
 exhibiting colours of blue and gold; with 
 
FROM WOllONETZ 
 
 others, which, being less remarkable, are given 
 in the subjoined Note 1 . 
 
 The first regular establishment of Malo- 
 Russians occurred after leaving Iestakovo. It 
 was called Locova Sloboda. The houses were 
 all white-washed, like many of the cottages in 
 Wales: this operation is performed annually, 
 with great care. Such distinguished cleanliness 
 appeared within the dwellings, that a traveller 
 might fancy himself transported, in the course 
 of a few miles, from Russia to Holland. Their 
 apartments, even the ceilings and the beams in 
 the roof, are regularly washed. Their tables 
 and benches shine with washing and rubbing, 
 and reminded us of the interior of cottages in 
 Noriuay. Their court-yard, stables, and out- 
 houses, with every thing belonging to them, 
 exhibited neatness, and proofs of industry. In 
 the furniture of their little kitchens, instead of the 
 darkness and smoky hue of the Russian houses, 
 we observed everywhere brightness and clean- 
 liness. Their utensils and domestic vessels 
 were all scoured and well polished. They had 
 poultry, and plenty of cattle ; and their gardens 
 were filled with fruit-trees. 
 
 (1) Other varieties of Verbascum. — Alyssum incanum , and montanum. 
 —Sideritis montana. Varieties of Genista , and Vida Cassubica. 
 
TO PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 285 
 
 The inhabitants, in their features, resemble chap. 
 Cossacks ; and botli these people bear a similitude 1 — — 
 to the Poles ; being, doubtless, all derived from 
 one common stock. The dress of unmarried 
 women is much the same among the Malo- 
 Russians and the Don Cossacks. They both wear 
 a helt, or petticoat, of one piece of cloth fastened 
 round the waist. Sometimes, particularly among 
 more aged females, this petticoat consists of two 
 pieces, like two aprons; the one fastened in front, 
 and the other behind. The necks of the girls 
 are laden with large red beads, falling in several 
 rows over the breast. The fingers, both of men 
 and women, are set off with rings, containing 
 glass gems. A simple bandeau, or gilded cap, is 
 sometimes seen on female heads ; and from be- 
 hind hang rows of antique coins, or false pieces 
 sold to them for that purpose, imitating the 
 antient coin of their own and of other countries. 
 
 The hair of unmarried women is suffered to fall 
 in a long braid down the back, terminated by a 
 ribbon with a knot. Their language is pleasing, 
 and full of diminutives. But the resemblance 
 of this people, in certain circumstances of dress 
 and manners, to the Scotch Highlanders, is very 
 remarkable. The cloth petticoat, before men- 
 tioned, is chequered like the Scotch plaid, and 
 answers to the kelt which is still worn in Scotland. 
 
 They have also, among their musical instru- 
 
286 
 
 PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 chap, nients, tlie bag-pipe, and the Jew's-harp : the 
 v former, like that used in North Britain and in 
 Finland, is common to the Cossacks as well as 
 to the Malo- Russians. Another point of resem- 
 blance may be found in the love ol spirituous 
 liquors. The Malo-Russians are truly a merry 
 race, and much given to drinking : but this habit 
 prevails among all barbarous nations. 
 
 Pauiov- From hence we proceeded to Paulovshoy, 
 situate upon a high sandy bank, on the eastern 
 side of the Don. It is a small town, and at a 
 distance makes a pleasing appearance; but 
 consists of little more than a church and a few 
 scattered wooden houses. The river, broad 
 and rapid, here makes a noble appearance : 
 barges, laden with corn, were moving with its 
 current towards the Sea of Azof. Close to its 
 
 Plants, banks we found a variety of beautiful plants. 
 The Stipa pennata, celebrated in Russian songs, 
 waved its feathery locks, as in almost all 
 the steppes. In the branches of the Artemisia 
 campestris, insects had caused excrescences, 
 which are used by Tahtar nations in kindling 
 their tobacco-pipes. The Climbing Birthwort 
 ( Aristolochia Clematitis), a rare British plant, 
 although found at fVhittlesford in Cambridge- 
 shire and at Stanton in Suffolk, appeared among 
 Southernwood, JVoody Nightshade, IVater Glow- 
 
PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 287 
 
 foot, and Flea-bane. The rest were all 
 strangers 1 . — On the eastern banks arc exten- ' 
 sive low woods, hardly rising above the head . 
 these are so filled with nightingales, that 
 their songs are heard, even in the town, 
 during the whole night. There is, moreover, 
 a kind of toad, or frog, which the Empress 
 Elizabeth transported to the marshes near 
 Moscow. Its croaking is loud and deep- 
 toned, and may be also termed musical ; filling 
 the air with full hollow sounds, very like the 
 cry of the old English harrier. This kind of 
 reptile is not known in the north ot Europe. 
 The noise it makes is in general loud enough to 
 be heard for miles, joining with, and sometimes 
 overpowering, the sweeter melody of nightin- 
 gales. This circumstance gives quite a new 
 character to the evening and to the night. 
 Poets in Russia cannot describe silence and 
 solemnity as characteristics of the midnight 
 hour ; but rather a loud and busy clamour, 
 totally inconsistent with the opening of Grays 
 Elegy, and the Night Thoughts of Young. 
 
 Peter the First founded Paulovskoy, and 
 named it in honour of St. Paul. It was designed 
 
 (I) Campanula Sibirica — Dracoecphalum Ruyschiana — Onosma 
 simplicissima — Anthemis tinctoria. 
 
PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 288 
 
 chap, as a frontier town against the Tahlars and Turks. 
 
 . 1 _ ^ The territory of the former then extended to 
 Bachmut, on the southern side of the Donetz ; 
 and that of the Turks, to the place where now 
 stands the fortress of Dimitri, upon the Don. 
 There was here a Botanic garden, as at JVoronetz ; 
 but of this not a trace now remains. The 
 underwood about the place was, in Gmelin's 
 time, a forest: it is daily diminishing, but it 
 
 Animals, contains many animals common in the sur- 
 rounding steppes ; as bears, ivolves, foxes, martens, 
 hares, weasels, ermines, and squirrels. Among the 
 birds, not frequent elsewhere, may be mentioned 
 the pelican : vast flights arrive annually from the 
 Black Sea and the Sea of Azof, accompanied by 
 swans, cranes, storks, and geese. They alight at 
 the mouths of the Don, and proceed up the 
 river: in autumn they return by the same 
 route. Pelicans construct their nests of rushes, 
 lining the interior with moss, or any soft herb. 
 Such nests are found only upon the small islets 
 of the river, and in places where moss may be 
 procured. They lay two white eggs, about the 
 size of those of the swan, and employ the same 
 time in hatching. If disturbed while sitting, 
 they hide their eggs in the water ; taking them 
 out afterwards with their bill, when they believe 
 the danger removed. They live altogether upon 
 fish, and consume a prodigious quantity. The 
 
PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 289 
 
 Russian naturalists give a curious account of this CI ^ P - 
 
 bird’s mode of fishing, assisted by the cormorant. ' «— 
 
 The pelican extends its wings, and troubles the 
 water; while the cormorant, diving to the bottom, 
 drives the fish to the surface. Then the pelican, 
 continuing the motion of its wings, advances 
 towards the shore, where the fish are taken 
 among the shallows. Afterwards, the cormorant, 
 without further ceremony, helps himself out of 
 the pelicans beak 1 . 
 
 The principal trade carried on here is in Trade. 
 tallow and fruit : the latter article, particularly 
 the Water-Melon, is carried to Moscow and to 
 Petersburg. They plant it in the open fields, 
 where it covers whole acres of land. In the 
 steppes near the town, we observed about thirty 
 women hoeing a piece of uninclosed ground, for 
 the culture of this delicious vegetable. That a 
 plant, rarely in perfection anywhere, should 
 thrive upon the rivers in this part of Russia, and 
 in such a latitude, is very remarkable. Perhaps 
 its flavour does not depend upon latitude. At 
 Naples, although so highly esteemed, the Water- 
 Melon seldom ripens. In Egypt it is even 
 worse. Indeed, the only place where we 
 have seen the Water-Melon attain its full 
 
 (1) Journal des Savans Voyageurs, p. 144. 
 VOL. I. U 
 
PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 290 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XI. 
 
 Rash Con- 
 duct of a 
 young Pea- 
 sant. 
 
 colour, size, and maturity, is at Jaffa, upon 
 the coast of Syria. 
 
 We found ourselves among Russians at P aulov- 
 skoy, and narrowly escaped with our lives. 
 The author, being asleep within the carriage, 
 was awakened by some person gently opening 
 the door ; and could discern, although in the 
 night, a man extending his arm in a menacing 
 manner. Making a sudden effort to seize him 
 by the hair, the fellow eluded the attempt, and 
 escaped : an alarm was immediately given, but 
 he could not then be discovered. Soon after 
 this, the author, putting his head out of the 
 carriage window, to call the servant, a large 
 stone, thrown with great violence, struck the 
 frame of it close to his head ; sounding so like 
 the report of a pistol, that at first he believed a 
 pistol had been discharged close to him. Upon 
 this a second search was made, and a man in 
 consequence detected, pretending to sleep in 
 one of the bhabithas, in the court-yard of the 
 inn. This fellow, whether guilty or not, we 
 compelled to mount the barouche-box, and to 
 sit there as sentinel. Soon afterwards, all of 
 the party who were in the house came running 
 into the yard, saying that the front of the inn 
 was beset by some persons from without, who 
 had hurled stones through the windows, and 
 
PAULOVSKOY. 
 
 291 
 
 broken every pane of glass. Determined to chap. 
 sell our lives as dearly as possible, we drew * 
 our sabres, and proceeded in a body towards 
 the residence of the Governor, a very worthy 
 man, who instantly rose from his bed, and set 
 on foot an inquiry after the offenders, which 
 continued the whole of the night. At the same 
 time, soldiers were stationed with the carriage, 
 and the patrole of the town was doubled. 
 Towards morning, they brought in a young man, 
 whom they stated to have detected in the act 
 of making his escape from the out-houses of our 
 inn. During his examination, the cause of all 
 this disorder was made known. He proved to 
 be a lover of one of the girls of the house ; and as 
 she had refused to come out to him when he had 
 sent for her, his jealousy convinced him that he 
 was slighted upon our account. In a fit of 
 desperate fury, he had therefore resolved to 
 wreak his vengeance upon some of the party, 
 if not upon all : and in this undertaking he had 
 been aided by certain of his comrades. The 
 poor fellow was more an object of pity than 
 resentment, and we interceded for his pardon ; 
 but the Governor insisted upon making an ex- 
 ample of him. The police-officers led him 
 away, sulky, and, as it seemed, nothing loth, 
 to be flogged. As he went, he still vowed 
 revenge; declaring, that he was not alone in 
 
292 FROM PAULOVSKOY, TO THE 
 
 chap, the business ; for that fifteen of his confede- 
 - X ’-' , rates had made an oath, to be revenged, not 
 
 only upon the girl, but upon all her family, for 
 her inconstancy to him. 
 
 The Governor provided us with a powerful 
 escort ; and early in the morning we continued 
 our journey: The roads have been all changed, 
 
 since Gfnelin, and other travellers, visited this 
 part of Russia. We proceeded from Paulovshoy 
 Kazmtkoy t 0 Kazinshoy Ckutor, village inhabited by 
 tVl0r ' Malo-Russians and Russians mingled together. 
 
 The distinction between the two people might 
 be made without the smallest inquiry, from the 
 striking contrast they exhibited of filth and 
 cleanliness. In the stable of the post-house we 
 found about twenty horses, kept with a degree 
 of order and neatness which would have done 
 credit to any nobleman’s stud in Britain. The 
 house of the poor superintendant villager was 
 equally admirable: every thing appeared clean 
 and decent: there was no litter; nor was any 
 thing out of its place. It was quite a new 
 thing to us, to hesitate whether we should 
 clean our boots before walking into an apart- 
 ment, on the floor of which we would rather 
 have placed our dinner than upon the table ol 
 any Russian prince. 
 
COUNTRY OF THE DON COSSACKS. 
 
 203 
 
 This village is situate in the most wild and ci ™p. 
 
 open steppes. Amongst the short herbage we 1 v — 
 
 noticed the land- tortoise. Its flesh is esteemed 
 a great delicacy; as it is in the Archipelago, 
 and in all Turkish cities. Boat-loads of them 
 are carried from the Greek Isles to t|^e markets 
 of Constantinople. After leaving Kazinskoy, we 
 passed through several very large villages, 
 scattered over valleys, each of which appeared 
 to consist rather of several hamlets than of one, 
 and arrived at Nizney Momon. Nothing occurred 
 
 ** ° Momon . 
 
 worth observation, except the plants we col- 
 lected 1 . The heat was intense. The country 
 similar to that before described. We found 
 our vinegar a pleasing and salutary ingredient 
 in bad water, and a most delicious solace, when 
 exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, with 
 parched lips, and mouths full of dust. It was 
 impossible to resist the temptation of drinking 
 it without water ; and to the practice of doing 
 so may be attributed, perhaps, the weak state 
 of health into which the author afterwards fell. 
 
 We considered it, at this time, the most valu- 
 able part of our baggage; and afterwards, in 
 
 (l) Of these, some are known incur country; viz. Goat’s-beard, 
 Tragvpogon praten.se, and Pntentilla argcntea. Others, more rare, are, 
 the Gladiolus imbricatus, not found even in our botanic gardens ; 
 ■Astragalus Onobrychis, Hcsperis matronalis, and Campanula Sibirica. 
 We observed also a new species of Lychnis. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Kuban Tahtary, derived from it the only means 
 of sustaining the fatigue and languor caused by 
 the heat of the climate and by bad air. 
 
 Dobrinka . The next place we came to was Dobrinka : 
 
 and here, for the first time, we found an 
 establishment of Cossacks; although but few 
 appeared, and even these were mixed with 
 Malo-Russians. The church was new ; a large 
 and handsome white building, erected by the 
 Emperor Paul. Others of the same nature 
 appeared in most of the neighbouring villages. 
 That of Dobrinka makes a conspicuous appear- 
 ance, several miles before the traveller reaches 
 it. If happiness could be found under the 
 Russian Government, it might be said to have 
 its residence in Dobrinka; a peaceable and 
 pleasant spot, full of neat little white cottages, 
 tenanted by a healthy, and apparently con- 
 tented, society, whose members live in the 
 greatest tranquillity, removed from all the spies, 
 tax-gatherers, police-officers, and other petty 
 despots of the country. We were received 
 into one of their court-yards, with a hearty 
 welcome and smiling countenances, very dif- 
 ferent from the lowering brows, and contracted 
 suspicious eyes, to which we had been so often 
 accustomed. At sun-set, all the cows belonging 
 to the inhabitants came, in one large troop, 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 295 
 
 lowing, into the village. No driver was neces- ( ” j P - 
 sary ; for, as the herd entered, they separated 1 — * — ' 
 into parties, and retired of their own accord to 
 their respective owners, in order to be milked. 
 
 The Malo- Russians, with their numerous families, 
 were seated upon the ground, in circles before 
 their neat little habitations, eating their supper ; 
 and, being all merry together, offered a picture 
 of contentment and of peace not often found 
 within Russian territories 1 . 
 
 About four in the afternoon of the next day, Metscka. 
 having been detained for want of horses at 
 Metscha, we arrived at Kasankaia, one of the Kasankaia, 
 
 first o/a- 
 
 largest stanitsas of the Don Cossacks, and the nitza of the 
 
 ° ... Don Cos- 
 
 first within their territory. As we are now 
 entering upon the description of a very interest- 
 ing part of our journey, we shall be particularly 
 careful to note every observation that may 
 occur, relating to a country rarely visited, and, 
 upon that account, very little known; where 
 every thing is interesting, because every thing 
 presents what travellers from other countries 
 have not seen before. The independent mode 
 of life of the people ; their indolence at home ; 
 their activity in war; their remote situation 
 
 0) We observed here a plant which grows on the Hills near 
 C ambridge, the Hedysarum Onobrychis . 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 290 
 
 chap, with regard to the rest of Europe ; the rank they 
 . / hold in the great scale of society ; the history of 
 
 their origin ; their domestic manners, and cha- 
 racter ; all these require consideration. 
 
Mod* «f Travelling mcio»* Uir lnm«..y 01 the Dan Cvuatkt. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 TERRITORY OF THE DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Appearance of the Cossacks at Kasankaia — House of the 
 Ataman — Ideal Dangers of the Country — Voyage ly 
 Water — Amusements and Dances of the People — Depar- 
 ture — Steppes — River Lazovai — Visit to a Camp of 
 Calmucks — Of their Brandy distilled from Mare’s Milk 
 — Personal Appearance of Calmucks — Arts, Armour, 
 and Weapons — Recreations and Condition of Life — 
 Acenovskaia — Of the Suroke, or Bobac, of the Steppes — 
 
 The Biroke and Suslic — Nature of Villages named in 
 Russian Mops — Stragglers from the Army — Distinction, 
 between Cossacks of the Steppes and of the Don — 
 Kamenskaia — Iron Foundries ofLugan — Etymology of 
 the word Tanais — Numerous Camps of Calmucks — 
 Approach to Axay. 
 
 There is something extremely martial, and chap. 
 even intimidating, in the first appearance of a \ — 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 2P8 
 
 chap. Cossack. His dignified and majestic 100k ; his 
 . XI - ; elevated brows, and dark mustachoes; his tall 
 anTof'the helmet of black wool, terminated by a crimson 
 Kasltkafa. sack, Wltk its plume, laced festoon, and white 
 cockade; his upright posture; the ease and 
 elegance of his gait ; give him an air of great 
 importance. We found Cossacks in considerable 
 number at Kasanhaia, lounging before their 
 houses, and conversing in such large parties, that 
 it seemed as if we were entering their capital. 
 Their dresses were much richer than any thing 
 we had observed in Russia, although all were 
 uniform. Each person’s habit consisted of a 
 blue jacket, edged with gold and lined with silk, 
 fastened by hooks across the chest. Beneath 
 the jacket appeared a silk waistcoat, the lower 
 part of which was concealed by the sash. Large 
 and long trowsers, either of the same material 
 ks the jacket, or of white dimity, kept remark- 
 ably clean, were fastened high above the waist, 
 and covered their boots. The sabre is not worn, 
 except on horseback, upon a journey, or in 
 war. In its stead is substituted a switch, or 
 cane, with an ivory head : this every Cossack 
 bears in his hand, as an appendage of his dress; 
 being at all times prepared to mount his horse 
 at a moment’s notice. Their cap or helmet is 
 the most beautiful part of the costume ; because 
 it is becoming to every set of features. It adds 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 299 
 
 considerably to the height, and gives, with chap. 
 
 the addition of whiskers, a military air to the ' , — > 
 
 most insignificant figure. They wear their hair 
 short round the head, but not thin upon the 
 crowm : it is generally dark, thick, and quite 
 straight. The cap is covered by a very soft and 
 shining black wool. Some of them have civil 
 and military distinctions of habit ; wearing in 
 time of peace, instead of the jacket, a long frock 
 without buttons. The sash is sometimes yellow, 
 green, or red, although generally black; and 
 they wear large military gloves. There is no 
 nation in the world more neat with regard to 
 dress; and, whether young or old, it appears to 
 become them all. A quiet life seems quite un- 
 suited to their disposition : they loiter about, 
 having then no employment to interest them; 
 and being devoted to war, seem distressed by 
 the indolence of peace. 
 
 The Ataman, or Chief of the stanitza, approached House of 
 
 , . , the Ala -n 
 
 us with very great respect and complaisance 9 man. 
 as soon as we arrived. Notice at the same time 
 was given to all the inhabitants, not to quit the 
 town without his knowledge, until every thing 
 the travellers might require should be ascer- 
 tained and provided. He begged to conduct us 
 to “ quarters,” as he expressed it ; and brought 
 us, for that purpose, to his own house, which he 
 
300 
 
 DON COSSACKS, 
 
 C xn P " £ ave U P entirely to our use. It was pleasantly 
 
 — / situate, above the Don, with an open covered 
 
 arcade, or wooden gallery : in this gallery we 
 breakfasted and dined, while we remained. His 
 cave of provisions was in the court-yard ; and 
 he made his wife and daughters open it for our 
 use. We had the curiosity to descend into this 
 place. It was floored with ice ; upon which we 
 saw sterlet from the Don, game, and other 
 luxuries. The house was perfectly clean and 
 comfortable ; so much so, that we could not 
 resist the pressing invitation made to us of 
 staying a short time, to study the manners of 
 the Cossacks, in a town nearly as large as their 
 capital. 
 
 It was amusing to observe the temporary re- 
 specttheypaid toth & Ataman. If he convened any 
 of the inhabitants on business, however trivial, 
 they made their obeisance before him, standing 
 bareheaded, as in the presence of a Sovereign : 
 but the moment the assembly was dissolved, he 
 passed unheeded among them, receiving no 
 greater mark of respect than any of the other 
 Cossacks. It is an office to which the election is 
 annual; but if an Ataman be particularly popular, 
 he may retain his station, by re-election, during 
 many years. This however does not often 
 happen. Our host was in his^rif year, and his 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 301 
 
 predecessors had generally changed when the chap. ! 
 time arrived. We soon perceived that the - — * — ' 
 Cossacks are characterized by great liveliness and. 
 animation; that they are little disposed to a 
 sedentary life, but fond of amusement, and 
 violent when their passions are roused. In 
 their dances, drinking-songs, and discussions, 
 they betray great vehemence. They have 
 abundance of excellent food, and as much brandy 
 as they may think proper to drink. It is there- 
 fore surprising that order is so well maintained 
 in their stanitzcis. 
 
 However indisposed a traveller may be to ideal Dan- 
 listen to those false alarms which the inhabitants country.’* 5 
 of every country raise in the minds of strangers 
 who wish to explore any remote part of their 
 territory, it is not possible at all times to disre- 
 gard such relations, especially when they come 
 from persons of the highest authority, and who 
 pretend to accurate knowledge of the facts they 
 attempt to substantiate. In Russia , there was 
 not an individual, of any respectability, with 
 whom we conversed upon the subject of our 
 journey, who did not endeavour to dissuade us 
 from the danger of traversing what was termed 
 “ the deserts of the Don Cossacks." The event, 
 however, served to convince us of the misrepre- 
 sentation, and absurdity of such statements. 
 
302 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap. Among the Russians, indeed, we were constantly 
 Xn ' ; exposed to danger ; either from imposition that 
 it was hazardous to detect, or from insult that it 
 was fearful to resent ; and in both cases the 
 consequences affected our security. In the 
 first view of the Cossacks, we beheld a brave, 
 generous, and hospitable people. If we ques- 
 tioned them concerning the dangers of the 
 country, we were referred to districts tenanted 
 by wandering Calmucks ; yet we afterwards 
 found no cause of reasonable alarm, even in the 
 very camps of that singular race of men. At 
 Paulovskoy, they told us that the Emperor’s 
 courier had been stopped with the mail. We 
 doubted the fact in the first instance ; but 
 concluded, that if the mail had been really 
 stolen, the theft was committed by the Russians, 
 who raised the clamour, and not by the Cossacks, 
 to whom the robbery had been imputed. In 
 times of hostility the Russians found in the 
 Cossacks a desperate and dangerous enemy; 
 and many a bitter remembrance of chastisement 
 and defeat induces them to vilify a people 
 whom they fear. The Cossacks are therefore 
 justified in acting towards them as they have 
 uniformly done ; that is to say, in withdrawing 
 as much as possible from all communion with 
 men whose association might corrupt, but 
 could never promote, the welfare of their 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 303 
 
 society. After these remarks, it must neverthe- chap. 
 
 XII. 
 
 less be confessed, that we were compelled to v . ■ — 
 take an escort with us throughout the Cossack 
 territory, and to place a guard over our car- 
 riage at night; precautions, doubtless, often 
 calculated to excite the ridicule of the people 
 among whom we travelled ; yet even the Cossacks 
 themselves sometimes urged the necessity of so 
 doing , — “on account," they said, “of the Calmuchs .” 
 
 One evil consequence arising from attention 
 paid to tales of danger, is the habit it occasions 
 of putting a false construction upon the most 
 harmless and most trivial incidents. The first 
 night of our residence among the Cossacks we 
 were full of idle fancies. The Ataman was 
 intoxicated, and set off, accompanied by his 
 wife, into the country ; leaving us in possession 
 of his house. As we had heard a violent 
 altercation without doors, and saw our host, 
 in a corner of the court, frequently whispering 
 to other Cossacks, and pointing to our carriage, 
 the effect of the silly stories we had heard began 
 to operate, and we imagined some preparation 
 was making to rob us; for which purpose it 
 was necessary to get rid of the Ataman and his 
 wife, as they might otherwise be made respon- 
 sible for. our safety. The apprehension of our 
 servants did not diminish the suspicion thus 
 
304 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 ctiap. excited: and we considered the plot as the 
 
 — j more probable, because we knew that they had 
 never before seen an equipage so attended. 
 Since this happened, we had every reason to 
 believe that the good old Ataman was only 
 giving directions for our advantage, and, like 
 all intoxicated persons, was making an import- 
 ant concern of the most trifling business, such 
 as the cording and repairing our wheels, and 
 a few other commissions which we wished to 
 have executed. Travellers, so circumstanced, 
 often raise an alarm about nothing; make a 
 great stir to defend themselves against ideal 
 danger; oflend those who intended no injury; 
 and finish, by congratulating themselves upon 
 an escape, where there was no ground even for 
 apprehension. 
 
 Voyage by We received a visit, on the evening of our 
 
 arrival, from the Ataman of one of the neigh- 
 bouring stanitzas, who chanced to be in the 
 place. He represented the voyage down the 
 Don to Tcherhash as a pleasant, but a tedious 
 undertaking ; saying, that it would require 
 at least a month for its performance. The 
 mosquitoes also are very troublesome upon 
 the water; and the passage is liable to im- 
 pediments, from the frequent shallows of the 
 
 river. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 305 
 
 Below the town, which stands upon the c ^ p - 
 
 western bank of the Don, we beheld this river, . — 
 
 augmented to a most magnificent piece of water, 
 rolling in a full and copious tide, and marking 
 its progress, through a country otherwise sterile, 
 by clumps of trees and flowers, and by an 
 abundant vegetation near to its sloping sides : 
 but all beyond is bare and desolate. We bathed 
 frequently, and found the current very rapid. 
 
 The fine sterlets caught here were often brought 
 to regale us during our stay. We preserved 
 one of them tolerably well ; but they have been 
 often engraved; and, were this not the case, 
 a young sturgeon will give a very good repre- 
 sentation of their appearance. Another sort of 
 fish, of large size, is also taken in this river; 
 it is like the bream in shape, but quite equal to 
 the sterlet in flavour. We had one served 
 at our table, weighing half a poud (eighteen 
 pounds). 
 
 The women of this place are very beautiful. 
 
 The shops are supplied with several articles of 
 luxury, such as loaf-sugar, ribbands, costly silks, 
 and other wares of large towns. Among the 
 more numerous articles offered for sale were 
 sabres. The Cossacks call this weapon Sabla ; 
 the Poles and Malo- Russians, Sabel. We ob- 
 served the bag-pipe frequently in use. A kind 
 
 VOL. i. 
 
 x 
 
306 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
 1 
 
 Amuse- 
 ments and 
 Dances of 
 the People. 
 
 of puppets, common in Calabria, which are carried 
 by the inhabitants of that part of Italy over all 
 Europe, were much in vogue here, consisting of 
 two small figures suspended by a string: this 
 the piper fastens to his knee, or to one of his 
 fingers ; while the other end is held by a gimlet 
 screwed into a table or floor ; and, by the 
 motion of the knee, the figures are made to 
 dance to the tune. The Calabrians manage them 
 with great dexterity, and often collect a crowd 
 in the streets of London and Paris. We saw 
 also the Cossack dance, which much resembles 
 the dance of the Gipsies in Russia, and our English 
 hornpipe. Like every other national dance, it 
 is licentious. As the female recedes or ap- 
 proaches, the male dancer expresses his desire 
 or his disappointment; yet so adapted is the 
 figure of this dance to the small rooms of their 
 houses, that the performers hardly move from 
 one spot. The expression is conveyed by 
 movements of the body, especially of the arms 
 and head, accompanied by short and sudden 
 shrieks, and by whistling. The method they 
 exhibited of moving the head from one 
 shoulder to the other, while the hands are 
 held up near the ears, is common to the 
 dances of all the Tahtars, Chinese, and even to 
 the inhabitants of the islands in the Pacific 
 Ocean. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 307 
 
 In the evening of June l6th, we left this hospi- chap. 
 
 ' table stanitza, crossing the Don upon a raft. The * ■ ; 
 
 people of the house, where we had been so Departuro ' 
 comfortably lodged, positively refused to accept 
 of any payment for the trouble we had given 
 them. “ Cossacks ” said they, “ do not sell their 
 hospitality 
 
 The view of Kasanhaia, from the southern 
 side of the river, is very fine. Its large church, 
 with numerous domes, stands in the center: 
 to the right and left are numerous and neat 
 wooden houses. The Don flows below, ex- 
 hibiting, in front, the busy raft, which is con- 
 stantly employed conveying caravans across 
 the ferry. In all parts of the river above 
 Kasanhaia, it seems to flow over a bed of 
 chalk ; and its banks, gently swelling upwards 
 from the water, rise like the South Downs of 
 Sussex, often disclosing the chalk whereof they 
 consist. Farther down, and near to the water's 
 edge, low copses of wood almost always ac- 
 company its course ; but these diminish as it 
 draws nearer to Tcherkask, the inhabitants of 
 
 (1) " L’hospitalit^ esten usage par toute la Petite Russie ; et un 
 Stranger <|iii y voyage n’a jamais besoin <!e faire de la dtipense pour 
 son logement et sa nourriture.” Scherer Annales de la Petite Russie, 
 tome I. p, 103. Paris, 1788. 
 
 X 1 
 
308 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
 Steppes. 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 which town derive all their wood from the 
 Volga. 
 
 As soon as we had left Kasankaia, we entered 
 the steppes in good earnest, with a view to 
 traverse them, in their whole extent, to Tcher- 
 hask. They are not cultivated ; but, bleak 
 and desolate as their appearance during winter 
 may be, they have during summer the aspect 
 of a wild continued meadow. The herbage, 
 rising as high as the knee, is full of flowers, 
 and exhibits a very interesting collection of 
 plants. No one collects or cuts this herbage. 
 The soil, although neglected, is very fine. We 
 passed some oaks, in the first part of our journey, 
 with the largest leaves we had ever seen. The 
 Cossacks composing our escort galloped before 
 us, bearing their long lances; and were of great 
 use in clearing the road of caravans, and in 
 tracing the best track where a carriage might 
 expeditiously pass. We were pleased in sur- 
 veying our little armed band, going at full 
 speed ; but thought it would avail us little, 
 if the stories we had heard of banditti in the 
 steppes were really true. For ourselves, we 
 were destitute of any defensive weapons, ex- 
 cepting our sabres ; and these were under lock 
 and key, in the sword-case. We relied there- 
 fore solely on the Cossacks, who seemed quite 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 309 
 
 delighted even with the thought of a skirmish : C JH P - 
 
 proud of their employment, they scoured the ' , — 
 
 plains, armed with pistols, sabres, and lances 
 twelve feet in length. 
 
 Thus escorted and accoutred 1 , we proceeded 
 to the distance of thirty versts before the evening; 
 and passed the night in a spot full of swamps, 
 stinking fens, and muddy pools. Near to these 
 stagnant waters, a number of caravans had 
 also halted. Mosquitoes were here in great 
 number, and very troublesome. Our Cossacks 
 passed the whole night upon the damp ground, 
 and in the open air, almost naked, around our 
 carriage. The atmosphere of such a country 
 must in summer be pestilential. It resembled 
 the P online Marshes in Italy ; being full of 
 reeds, bulrushes, and tall flags, in which was 
 heard the constant clamour of frogs and toads, 
 whose croaking overpowered every other sound 
 during the night. But in the morning, the 
 chorus of a great variety of birds, with the 
 humming of innumerable insects, and the pleasing 
 appearance of a flowery wilderness, gave a 
 liveliness to the flat and wide prospect. The 
 name of this place was Tichaia; and hereabouts 
 the river Lazovay has its source. We followed Biter 
 
 LuoTtjr, 
 
 (!) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 / 
 
310 
 
 CALMUCKS. 
 
 C 1 1 A P. 
 XU. 
 
 Visit to 
 a Camp of 
 Calmucks. 
 
 its tardy and almost stagnant waters through 
 the steppes, to a place named from it, Ferchnia 
 Lazovaia. On its banks we observed the Sinapis 
 nigra and Convolvulus arvensis, plants common 
 in England. 
 
 We afterwards saw a camp of Calmucks, 
 in the plain towards the right of our route. 
 As we much wished to visit this people, it 
 was thought prudent to send a part of our 
 Cossack escort before, in order to apprize them 
 of our inclination, and to ask their permission. 
 The sight of our carriage, and of the party 
 approaching with it, seemed to throw them 
 into great confusion. We observed them run- 
 ning backwards and forwards from one tent 
 to another, and moving several of their goods. 
 As we drew near, on foot, about half-a-dozen 
 gigantic figures came towards us, stark naked, 
 excepting a cloth bound about the waist, with 
 greasy, shining, and almost black skins, and 
 black hair braided into a long queue behind. 
 They began talking very fast, in so loud a tone, 
 and in so uncouth a language, that we were 
 a little intimidated. We shook hands however 
 with the foremost, which seemed to pacify 
 them, and we were invited into a large tent. 
 Near to its entrance hung a quantity of horse- 
 flesh, with the limbs of dogs, cats, marmots. 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 rats, &c. drying in the sun, and quite black. 
 Within the tent we found some women, although 
 it were difficult to distinguish the sexes, so 
 horrid and inhuman was their appearance. Two 
 of them, covered with grease, were lousing 
 each other ; and it surprised us, that they did 
 not discontinue their work, nor even look up 
 as we entered. Through a grated lattice, in 
 the side of the tent, we saw some younger 
 women peeping, of more handsome features, 
 but truly Calmuck, with long black hair, hanging 
 in thick braids on each side of the face, and 
 fastened at the end with bits of lead or tin. 
 In their ears they wore shells, and large pearls 
 of a very irregular shape, or some substance 
 much resembling pearl. The old women were 
 eating raw horse-flesh, tearing it off’ from large 
 bones which they held in their hands. Others, 
 squatted on the ground within their tents, were 
 smoking tobacco, with pipes not two inches in 
 length, much after the manner of Laplanders. 
 In other respects, the two people, although 
 both of Eastern origin, and both nomade tribes, 
 bear little resemblance. The manner of living 
 among the Calmucks is much superior to that 
 of the Laplanders. The tents of the former are 
 better constructed, stronger, more spacious, 
 and contain many of the luxuries of life ; such 
 as very warm and good beds, handsome carpets 
 
312 
 
 CALMUCKS. 
 
 C xn P ’ ant ^ mats> domestic utensils, and many instru- 
 
 > ments of art and science, painting and writing 1 2 . 
 
 The Calmuck is a giant, the Laplander a dwarf: 
 both are filthy in their persons; but the Calmuck 
 more so, perhaps, than the inhabitant of any 
 other nation. W e are not otherwise authorized 
 in comparing together tribes so remote from 
 all connection with each other, than by asserting, 
 from our own observation, that both are Ori- 
 ental, and that both are characterized by some 
 habits and appearances in common; deferring, 
 at the same time, all further illustration of the 
 subject until a more appropriate opportunity. 
 We shall have occasion to speak at large of the 
 Laplanders, in another part of our Travels". 
 
 Of Brandy Every one has heard of the koumiss, and 
 
 distilled 
 
 from the the brandy, which the Calmuchs are said to 
 Mares. distil from the milk of mares. The manner 
 of preparing these liquors has been differently 
 related, and perhaps is not always the same. 
 
 (1) Those tents are of a circular form, with a hole at the top : they 
 are constructed of canes, and covered with a thick felt made of 
 camel’s hair. In the Calmuck language they are called Khalitka: 
 and being placed upon waggons during their migrations, have given 
 their name to the summer vehicles of Russia. 
 
 (2) The Esquimaux Indians of America, the Greenlanders, and the 
 Laplanders, speak the same language, and have the same swarthy 
 complexion. When the Moravians effected their settlement in La- 
 brador, the Greenland language was used, by their interpreter, with 
 the natives. 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 313 
 
 They assured us that the brandy was merely 
 distilled from butter-milk. The milk which <. 
 they collect overnight is churned in the 
 morning into butter; and the butter-milk is 
 distilled over a fire made with the dung of their 
 cattle, particularly of the dromedary, which 
 makes a steady and clear fire, like peat. But 
 other accounts have been given, both of the 
 koumiss and of the brandy. It has been usual 
 to confound them, and to consider the koumiss 
 as their appellation for the brandy so obtained. 
 By every information we could obtain, not only 
 here, but in many other camps, which we after- 
 wards visited, they are different modifications 
 of the same thing, although different liquors ; 
 the koumiss being a kind of sour milk, like the 
 Yoivrt of the Turks, and the beverage so much 
 used by the Laplanders, called Pima ; and the 
 brandy, an ardent spirit obtained from koumiss 
 by distillation. In making the koumiss, they 
 sometimes employ the milk of cows ; but never, 
 if mare’s milk can be had ; as the koumiss from 
 the latter yields three times as much brandy as 
 that made from cow’s milk. The manner of 
 preparing the koumiss is, by combining one- 
 sixth part of warm water with any given quan- 
 tity of warm mare's milk. To this they further 
 add, as a -leaven, a little old koumiss, and agitate 
 the mass till fermentation ensues. To produce 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
314 
 
 CALMUCKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
 S — 
 
 the vinous fermentation, artificial heat and more 
 ✓ agitation is sometimes necessary. This affords 
 what is called koumiss. A subsequent process 
 of distillation afterwards obtains an ardent spirit 
 from the koumiss. They gave us this last be- 
 verage in a wooden bowl, calling it vina. In 
 their own language it bears the very remarkable 
 appellation of rack, and racky , doubtless nearly . 
 allied to the names of our East-Jndia spirit, 
 rack, and arrack. We brought away a quart 
 bottle of it, and considered it as very weak bad 
 brandy, not unlike the common spirit distilled 
 by the Swedes and other Northern nations. Some 
 of their women were busied making it in an 
 adjoining tent. The simplicity of the operation, 
 and of their machinery, was very characteristic 
 of the antiquity of this chemical process. Their 
 still was constructed of mud, or of very coarse 
 clay ; and for the neck of the retort they em- 
 ployed a cane. The receiver of the still was 
 entirely covered by a coating of wet clay. The 
 brandy had already passed over. The woman 
 who had the management of the distillery, 
 wishing to give us a taste of the spirit, thrust a 
 stick, with a small tuft of camel’s hair at its 
 extremity, through the external covering of 
 clay; and thus collecting a small quantity ot 
 the brandy, she drew out the stick, dropped a 
 portion upon the retort, and, waving the instru- 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 raent above her head, scattered the remaining 
 liquor in the air. We asked the meaning of v 
 this ceremony, and were answered, that it is a 
 religious custom, to give always the first drop 
 of the brandy from the receiver to their God. 
 The stick was then plunged into the receiver a 
 second time; when more brandy adhering to 
 the camel's hair, she squeezed it into the palm 
 of her dirty and greasy hand, and, having tasted 
 the liquor, presented it to our lips. 
 
 The covering of their tents consists of neat 
 and well-made mats, such as we see brought 
 from India ; and also of felt, or coarse woollen 
 cloths. Whenever a Calmuck marries, he must 
 build one of these tents, and one also for every 
 child lie has by that marriage. If a husband 
 die, his widow becomes the property of his 
 brother, provided the latter choose to accept of 
 her. A distinction between married and unmar- 
 ried women is exhibited in the manner of dressing 
 their hair. A married woman wears her hair 
 braided, falling over her shoulders, and on each 
 side of her face ; but a virgin has only a single 
 braid hanging down the middle of her back. 
 Their tents were all of a circular form. Near to 
 these we observed a party of their children, 
 from the age of five to fourteen, playing at the 
 antient Grecian game (before mentioned as 
 
 315 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
316 
 
 CALMUCKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
 ' 1 
 
 Personal 
 Appear- 
 ance of 
 Calmucks. 
 
 common in Russia ) with knuckle-bones 1 . We 
 delighted them by making a scramble with a few 
 copeeks. They were quite naked, and perfectly 
 black. Farther off, a herd of their dromedaries 
 were grazing. 
 
 Of all the inhabitants of the Russian empire, 
 the Calmucks are the most distinguished by pe- 
 culiarity of feature and manners. In personal 
 appearance, they are athletic and revolting. 
 Their hair is coarse and black; their language 
 harsh and guttural. They inhabit Thibet, Bu- 
 charia, and the countries lying to the north of 
 Persia, India, and China; but, from their vagrant 
 habits, they may be found in all the southern 
 parts of Russia, even to the banks of the Dnieper. 
 The Cossacks alone esteem them, and intermarry 
 with them 2 . This union sometimes produces 
 
 (1) The Astragalismus ; in which game we find the origin of dice, 
 chess , nine-pins , &c. 
 
 (2) in opposition to this remark, it is stated in Mr. f teller's Journal, 
 that Cal muck servants are greatly esteemed all over Russia , for 
 their intelligence and fidelity ami we rpcollect seeing some of them 
 in that capacity among English families in Petersburg. The most 
 remarkable instance ever known of an expatriated Calmuck, was that 
 of an artist employed by the Earl of Elgin, whom we saw (a second 
 Anacharsis, from the plains of Scythia) executing most beautiful de- 
 signs among the Kuins of Athens. Some Russian family had pre- 
 viously sent him to finish his studies in Rome, where he acquired 
 the highest perfection in design. He had the peculiar features, and 
 many of the manners, of the nomade Calmucks. 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 317 
 
 • rT-i \p 
 
 women of very great beauty; although nothing ' x n. 
 
 is more hideous than a Calmuck. High, promi- ' * 
 
 nent, and broad cheek-bones ; very little eyes, 
 widely separated from each other ; a flat and 
 broad nose; coarse, greasy, jet black hair; 
 scarcely any eye-brows ; and enormous promi- 
 nent ears; compose no very inviting counte- 
 nance : however, we may strive to do it justice. 
 
 Their women are uncommonly hardy ; and on 
 horseback outstrip their male companions in the 
 race. The stories related of their placing pieces 
 of horse-flesh under the saddle, in order to 
 prepare them for food, are true. They ac- 
 knowledged that this practice was common 
 among them during a journey, and that a stake 
 so dressed became tender and palatable. In 
 their large camps, they have cutlers, and other 
 
 Arts. 
 
318 
 
 CALMUCKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
 ' y ' 
 
 Armour, & 
 Weapons. 
 
 artificers in copper, brass, and iron ; sometimes 
 goldsmiths, who make trinkets for their women, 
 idols of gold and silver, and vessels for their 
 altars ; also persons expert at inlaid work, 
 enamelling, and many arts vainly believed pe- 
 culiar to nations in a state of refinement. One 
 very remarkable fact, confirming the observa- 
 tions of other travellers may bear repetition ; 
 namely, that, from time immemorial, the more 
 Oriental tribes of Calmucks have possessed the 
 art of making gunpowder. They boil the efflores- 
 cence of nitrate of potass in a strong lye of poplar 
 and birch ashes, and leave it to crystallize; 
 after this they pound the crystals with two 
 parts of sulphur, and as much charcoal ; then, 
 wetting the mixture, they place it in a caldron 
 over a charcoal fire, until the powder begins to 
 granulate. The generality of Calmucks, when 
 equipped for war, protect the head by a helmet 
 of steel with a gilded crest : to this is fixed a 
 net-work of iron rings, falling over the neck 
 and shoulders, and hanging as low as the eye- 
 brows in front. They wear upon their body, 
 after the Eastern manner, a tissue of similar 
 work, formed of iron or steel rings matted 
 together: this adapts itself to the shape, and 
 yields readily to all positions of the body ; and 
 
 (l) Journal ties Savaus Voyageurs, p. 434. 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 319 
 
 ought therefore rather to be called a shirt, than chap. 
 
 a coat, of mail. The most beautiful of these are „ 
 
 manufactured in Persia, and valued at the price 
 of fifty horses. The cheaper sort are made of 
 scales of tin, and sell only for six or eight 
 horses each ; but these are more common 
 among the Chinese, and in the Mogul territory. 
 
 Their other arms are lances, bows and arrows, 
 poignafds, and sabres. Only the richer Calmucks 
 carry fire-arms : these are therefore always 
 regarded as marks of distinction, and kept, 
 with the utmost care, in cases made of badgers’ 
 skins. Their most valuable bows are constructed 
 of the wild-goat's horn, or of whalebone; the 
 ordinary sort, of maple, or thin slips of elm or 
 fir, fastened together, and bound with a covering 
 of linden or birch bark. 
 
 Their amusements are, hunting, wrestling, Recrea- 
 
 . tions and 
 
 archery, and horse-racing. They are not condition 
 addicted to drunkenness, although they hold 
 drinking parties, continuing for lialf-a-day at a 
 time, without interruption. Upon such oc- 
 casions, every one brings his share of brandy 
 and koumiss; and the whole stock is placed upon 
 the ground, in the open air ; the guests forming 
 a circle, seated around it. One of them, 
 squatted by the vessels containing the liquor, 
 performs the office of cup-bearer. The young 
 
320 
 
 CALMUCKS. 
 
 chap, women place themselves by the men, and begin 
 ^ — > songs of love or war, of fabulous adventure, or 
 heroic achievement. Thus the fete is kept up ; 
 the guests passing the cup round, and singing 
 the whole time, until the stock of liquor is 
 expended. During all this ceremony, no one is 
 seen to rise from the party; nor does any one 
 interrupt the harmony of the assembly, by riot 
 or intoxication. In the long nights of winter, 
 the young people of both sexes amuse them- 
 selves with music, dancing, and singing. Their 
 most common musical instrument is the bala- 
 laika, or two-stringed lyre; often represented 
 in their paintings. These paintings preserve 
 very curious memorials of the antient supersti- 
 tion of Eastern nations ; exhibiting objects of 
 Pagan worship which were common to the 
 earliest mythology of Egypt and of Greece. The 
 arts of Painting and Music may be supposed 
 to have continued little liable to alteration 
 among the Calmucks, from the remotest periods 
 of their history. As for their dances, these 
 consist more in movements of the hands and 
 arms, than of the feet. In winter they play at 
 cards, draughts, backgammon, and chess. Their 
 love of gambling is so great, that they will 
 spend entire nights at play; and lose in a single 
 sitting the whole of what they possess, even to 
 the clothes upon their body. In short, it may 
 
CALMUCIvS. 
 
 321 
 
 be said of the Calmueks, that the greatest part C ” AP - 
 of their life is spent in amusement. Wretched ' — v — 
 and revolting as they seem, they would be 
 indeed miserable, if compelled to change their 
 mode of living for that of a more civilized 
 people. Both Gmelin and Pallas relate, that 
 they deem a residence in houses so insupport- 
 able, that to 'Be shut up in the confined air of 
 a close apartment, even for a short time, when 
 under the necessity of going into towns, and 
 making visits of embassy or commerce, is 
 considered by them with a degree of horror. 
 
 Among the diseases caused by their diet 
 and want of cleanliness, may be mentioned 
 the itch : to this they are very subject. Ma- 
 lignant fevers are often fatal to them during the 
 heat of summer. The venereal disease causes 
 great ravages: it is said to prevail chiefly 
 in those camps where their princes reside, 
 and not to be often found among the lower 
 orders. They give to this disorder a name 
 very expressive of the estimation in which they 
 hold their mode of life, by calling it “ The house 
 disease 1 ." Having occasion hereafter to notice 
 this people, we shall only now add the obser- 
 vations of one of the celebrated travellers before 
 mentioned ; who, after considering the privations 
 
 (l) Or, rather, “ derived from those who live in houses." 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 Y 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 322 
 
 chap, to which they are exposed, places their situ- 
 y ation in a point of view more favourable, per- 
 haps, than we have done. “ For the rest,” says 
 he, “ to whatsoever degree of wretchedness 
 the poorest of the Calmucks may be reduced, 
 it is very rare to behold them dejected by 
 sorrow, and they are never subdued by 
 despair. The generality, notwithstanding a 
 mode of life apparently so adverse to health, 
 attain to a robust and very old age. Their 
 disorders are neither very frequent, nor very 
 dangerous. Few become grey-headed at forty 
 or fifty. Persons from eighty to a hundred 
 years of age are by no means uncommon among 
 them ; and at that advanced period of life they 
 still sustain with great ease the fatigue of horse- 
 manship. A simple and uniform diet 1 ; the free air 
 they uninterruptedly respire ; inured, vigorous, 
 and healthy bodies; continual exercise, without 
 care, without laborious employment ; such are 
 the natural causes of these felicitous effects.” 
 
 Leaving this encampment, we continued to 
 traverse the steppes in a south-westerly direction, 
 
 (1) It is difficult to reconcile this statement with the real diet of the 
 Calmucks. Can that properly be deemed simple, which consists of 
 the grossest animal food of all kinds, without admixture of vegetable 
 diet, without bread, or any of the fruits of the earth ? 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 and passed a very neat village belonging to a 
 wealthy Greek, who, to our great surprise, had 
 established a residence in the midst of these 
 desolate plains. As we advanced, we per- 
 ceived that wheresoever rivers intersect the 
 steppes, there are villages, and a numerous 
 population. A manuscript map of Tcherkask 
 confirmed the truth of this observation. No 
 maps have been hitherto published in Europe 
 giving an accurate notion of the country. A 
 stranger crossing the Cossack territory might 
 suppose himself to be in a desert, although 
 surrounded by villages. From the road, it is 
 true, he will not often see these settlements ; 
 but frequently, when we were crossing a river, 
 after believing ourselves to be in the midst of 
 an uninhabited country, we beheld villages to 
 the right and left of us, that had been con- 
 cealed by the banks of the river ; not a single 
 house nor church of which would have been 
 otherwise discerned®. We were approaching, 
 in an oblique direction, the Lazovai, now aug- 
 
 (2) “ Erected, or rather concealed,” says Gibbon, accurately de- 
 scribing the dwellings of their forefathers, “ in the depth of forests, on 
 the banks of rivers, or the edge of morasses, we may not perhaps, 
 without flattery, compare them to the architecture of the beaver ; 
 which they resembled in a double issue, to the land and water, for the 
 escape of the savage inhabitant, an animal less cleanly, less diligent, 
 and less social, than that marvellous quadruped.” History of the 
 Homan Empire, chap. xlii. 
 
 Y 2 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 324 
 
 chap, menled to a considerable river. As we drew 
 
 ■ ' ^ near, its opposite banks rose considerably higher 
 than the ordinary appearance of the country 
 with fine clusters of trees. Before we arrived 
 at Acenovshaia, the country was even moun- 
 tainous. On its western side we beheld a neat 
 village, called Jernvchaia, pleasingly situate 
 beneath the hills, with a new and handsome 
 church. Indeed, the churches are everywhere 
 good, and much superior to what we find in our 
 country villages in England, both as to archi- 
 tecture and interior decoration. At the top of 
 the mountainous elevation on the western side 
 of the river, stood one of the largest of those 
 tumuli which abound over all this country. 
 They become more numerous, and appear of 
 greater magnitude, nearer to the Don and to the 
 Sea of Azof. Finding the water clear, and the 
 current rapid, we had the opportunity of bathing; 
 and recommend the practice to all travellers, 
 as essential to the preservation of health'. 
 
 Acenov- From Acenovshaia, we continued our route 
 over steppes apparently destitute of any habi- 
 tation. Dromedaries were feeding, the sole 
 
 (1) Accrbi informed us, that by constant bathing he escaped the 
 fever to which travellers are liable from the bad air and heat of 
 Lapland during summer. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 325 
 
 tenants of these wide pastures. Mr. Cripps got C j I A , p ' 
 
 upon the back of one of them, as the animal ' — » 
 
 was kneeling : it rose immediately, and, with 
 a very majestic pace, bore him towards the 
 carriage. Our horses were so terrified at the 
 sight, that they broke the ropes, and we had 
 great difficulty in tranquillizing them. The 
 dromedary, having passed, made off into the 
 plain, with his head erect, prepared, no doubt, 
 to undertake an expedition to very distant 
 regions; when, having satisfied his curiosity, 
 
 Mr. Cripps descended from his lofty back, as 
 from the roof of a house, and fell with some 
 violence upon the ground ; leaving the drome- 
 dary to prosecute his voluntary journey, which 
 he continued as far as our eyes could fol- 
 low him. 
 
 Innumerable inhabitants, of a smaller race, ofthe 
 people these immense plains. Among the s ^ e c ’ " f r 
 number of them, is an animal which the natives the Sl m K *- 
 call Surohe ; the Arctomys Bobac of zoologists’. 
 
 It grows here to the size of a large badger ; 
 
 (2) See Shaw’s Zotilogy, vol. III. p. 120. PI. 144. — la the first 
 edition we had described this animal as the Alpine Marmot, with 
 which naturalists have sometimes confounded it. — The holes, or recep- 
 tacles, of the Jiobac are lineil with the finest hay j and it is said that 
 the quantity found in one nest is sufficient for a night’s provender for 
 a horse. — The Bobac is the Mas Arctomys of Pallas. 
 
326 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap- and so much resembles the bear in its manner 
 — ' and appearance, that, until we became ac- 
 quainted with its real history, we considered 
 it as a non-descript animal, and called it Ursa 
 minima subterranea. Such mistakes are not 
 uncommon in zoology. Naturalists frequently 
 add to the nomenclature of animals by super- 
 fluous appellations A beautiful little quadru- 
 ped, called Jerboa in Egypt, has been described 
 in other countries as a distinct animal, under 
 the various names of Mus jaculus, Subterraneous 
 Hare, Faulting Rat, Reaper, &c. &c. but it is 
 the same creature everywhere, and bears to the 
 kangaroo the same degree of relationship that 
 a lizard has to the crocodile. We shall describe 
 it more minutely hereafter. Our present 
 business is with the Suroke ; this is seen in all 
 parts of the steppes ; sitting erect, near to its 
 burrow, whistling very loud upon the slightest 
 alarm, and observing all around. It makes 
 such extensive subterraneous chambers, that 
 the ground is perforated in all directions, and 
 the land is destroyed wheresoever this animal 
 is found. Its colour is a greyish brown: it has 
 five fingers upon each of its paws; these very 
 much resemble human hands, and are used 
 after the same manner. The mouth, teeth, and 
 head, are like those of the squirrel ; but the ears 
 are shorter. Its fine eyes are round, full, dark. 
 
DON COSSACKS 
 
 32 7 
 
 and bright: the tail is short; the belly generally 
 protuberant, and very large. It devours almost 
 every thing it finds, with the greatest voracity; 
 and remains in a state of torpor half the time of 
 its existence. Many of the peasants keep 
 surohes tame 'in their houses. We purchased 
 no less than four: they lived and travelled 
 with us in our carriage, thereby enabling 
 us to study their habits. They were always 
 playing, or sleeping, beneath our feet, to the 
 great annoyance of our little pug-dog 1 . The 
 
 (1) Having mentioned this little animal, it may he well to say 
 something of the importance of its presence with us, for the advantage 
 of other travellers. The precaution was first recommended to us by a 
 Polish traveller in Denmark. Any small dog (the more diminutive, 
 the better, because the more portable, and generally the more petu- 
 lant) will prove a valuable guardian, in countries where the traveller 
 is liable to attacks from midnight robhers, and especially from pirates 
 by water, as in the Archipelago. They generally sleep during the day, 
 and sound their shrill alarum upon the most distant approach of 
 danger, during the night. The author remembers an instance of one 
 that enabled a party of mariners to steer clear of some shallows, by 
 barking at a buoy, which, in the darkness of the night, they had not 
 perceived. The instances in which our little dog was useful, it is 
 needless to relate. But it may gratify curiosity to be informed, that, 
 being naturally afraid of water, and always averse from entering it, ho 
 crossed all the rivers and lakes of Lapland, Sweden, and Norway, after 
 his masters ; accompanied them, during three years, in different 
 climates, although detesting bodily exercise ; and ultimately performed 
 a journey on foot, keeping up with horses, from Athens, through all 
 Greece, Macedonia, and Thrace ; making the tour of the Archipelago, 
 to Constantinople; and thence, in the same manner, through Jiulgaria, 
 and fVallachia, to Bucharest . 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
328 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
 peasants universally give them the name of 
 Washy. They told us, that in the month of 
 September their tame suro/ies retire to some 
 hiding-place, and do not make their appearance 
 again before the beginning of April. They 
 either descend into some burrow, or conceal 
 themselves where they may remain the least 
 liable to observation, and sleep during the 
 whole winter. To awaken them, during the 
 season of their somnolency, materially injures 
 their health, and sometimes kills them. They 
 are most destructive animals; for they will gnaw 
 every thing they find in their way; shoes, 
 books, wooden planks, and all kinds of roots, 
 fruit, or vegetables. They made havoc with the 
 lining of our carriage; which was of morocco 
 leather. As soon as they have done eating, 
 they become so drowsy, that they even fall 
 asleep in your hands, in any posture or situation, 
 or under any circumstances of jolting noise or 
 motion. When awake, they are very active; 
 and they surpass every other animal in the 
 rapidity with which they burrow in the earth. 
 They resemble guinea-pigs in making a grunting 
 noise; and when surprised, or much pleased, 
 or in any degree frightened, they utter loud 
 and short squeaks, resembling the sound of a 
 person whistling. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 329 
 
 Other animals common in the steppes are f 
 
 wolves and bears; also a quadruped called * — - 
 
 Biroke, of a grey colour, something like a wolf, ThcjNre*e. 
 very ferocious, and daring enough to attack 
 men. The Cossack peasants, armed with their 
 lances, sally forth, on horseback, in pursuit of 
 this animal. It has a long full tail, reaching to 
 the ground. From the accounts given of it by 
 the peasants, we suspected it to be the same 
 animal described by Professor Pallas, as found 
 in the environs of Astrackan, under the appel- 
 lation Chakal, and said to be between a wolf 
 and a dog; but whether it be the same kind 
 of Jackal which is found in Syria and in 
 Egypt, or not, we did not learn. 
 
 The most numerous of all the quadrupeds of n ie smiic. 
 the steppes, the whole way from Woronetz to 
 Tcherkask, are the Suslics : by this name they 
 are called throughout the country. Near the 
 course of the Don, they absolutely swarm, and 
 may be taken in any number. This interesting 
 little animal is supposed to be the Mus dtilhis 
 of Buffon ; and a description of it will now 
 prove whether this be really the case or not. 
 
 It makes a whistling noise, like the suroke; but 
 it is much smaller, not being larger than a 
 small weazel. It constructs its habitation under 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 330 
 
 chap, ground with incredible quickness; excavating, 
 
 ■ first of all, a small cylindrical hole or well, 
 
 perpendicularly, to the depth ol three feet; 
 thence, like a correct miner, it shoots out a 
 level, although rather in an ascending direction, 
 to prevent being incommoded by water. At 
 the extremity of this little gallery it forms a 
 very spacious chamber; and to this, as to a 
 granary, it brings, every morning and evening, 
 all it can collect of favourite herbage, of corn 
 (if it can be found), of roots, and of other food. 
 Nothing is more amusing than to observe its 
 habits. If any one approach, it is seen sitting, 
 at the entrance of its little dwelling, erect, upon 
 its hinder feet, like the suroke, carefully noticing 
 whatsoever is going on around it. In the be- 
 ginning of winter, previously to retiring for the 
 season, it carefully closes with sand the entrance 
 to its subterraneous abode, to keep out the snow; 
 as nothing annoys it more than water, which 
 is all the Caknucks and Cossacks use in taking 
 them ; for the instant water is poured into their 
 burrows, they run out, and are easily caughf. 
 The Calmucks are very fond of them as an 
 article of food; but they are rarely eaten by 
 the Cossacks. Their greatest enemy is the 
 falcon: this bird makes a constant breakfast 
 and supper of suslics. They have from two to 
 
 I 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 331 
 
 ten young ones at a time; and it is supposed, C “, A ( P ’ 
 from the hoard prepared, that the suslic does ^ - > — 
 not sleep, like the surohe, during winter. All 
 the upper part of its body is of a deep yellow, 
 spotted with white. Its neck is beautifully 
 white, the breast yellowish, and the belly a 
 mixed colour of yellow and grey: it has, 
 
 moreover, a black forehead, reddish white 
 temples, and a white chin. The rest of its 
 head is of an ash-coloured yellow; and the ears 
 are remarkably small. Among the feathered 
 race in the steppes, we particularly noticed, 
 during this part of our journey, certain birds 
 called Staritchi, or Elders, which appear in 
 flocks: they are held by the people in super- 
 stitious veneration. One of these birds is about 
 the size of a snipe: its colour is brown; but 
 the breast is white; and its shape is very 
 elegant. 
 
 Such are the observations which we made 
 during the second day of our journey across 
 the steppes. We halted at a place called Nature of 
 
 Or r Villages 
 
 oucliovskaia, and proceeded afterwards to Rosso- named in 
 c hinskaia, a single hut in the middle of the Maps, 
 waste. Yet such are often the villages, not to 
 say towns and cities, which figure in the 
 Russian maps. This place consisted of a single 
 
332 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap, dwelling, built of a few pieces of wood, and 
 
 , — 1 thatched by weeds and sedge, carelessly 
 
 heaped. The surrounding hovels are out- 
 houses for the post-horses. During summer, 
 its Cossack inhabitants sleep upon the roof, 
 among the thatch. 
 
 As it grew dark, a tremendous thunder-storm 
 came on, and a very interesting spectacle was 
 disclosed by the vivid flashes of lightning. The 
 Cossack guard, as well as the people of the 
 place, had collected themselves upon different 
 parts of the thatched covering of the hut and 
 adjoining hovels, to pass the night. Every 
 flash of lightning served to exhibit their martial 
 figures, standing upright, in groupes, upon the 
 roof of the buildings, bowing their heads, and 
 crossing themselves, beneath the awful canopy 
 the sky then presented. All around was de- 
 solate and silent. Perhaps no association could 
 serve to render a scene of devotion more 
 striking. It is customary among the Cossacks, 
 before they consign themselves to sleep, to 
 make the sign of the cross, facing respectively 
 the four quarters of the globe. A similar 
 superstition, respecting four cardinal points of 
 worship, exists among ignorant people, even 
 in our own country. The author, when a child, 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 333 
 
 was taught by an old woman to offer the fol- 
 lowing singular prayer : 
 
 “ Four corners to my bed. 
 
 Four angels over head : 
 
 Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John, 
 
 Bless the bed that 1 lie on.” 
 
 A party of Cossachs arrived as pilgrims, 
 returning homeward from the war in Italy. 
 We afterwards met numbers, who had tra- 
 versed on foot the whole of the immense terri- 
 tory from the Alps to the Don, and who arrived 
 with scarcely a rag to their backs. They were 
 loud in complaints against their unprincipled 
 commanders. Some of them had learned a 
 little of the Italian language ; and made use of 
 it in telling us that the Russian officers, having 
 first stripped them of every thing they had, 
 turned them adrift upon the frontier of Italy, 
 to find their way home on foot. One of them 
 assured us, that he had begged during the 
 whole journey; and that before he left the 
 Russian army, they had taken away his watch, 
 and even his clothes. We gave them a little 
 brandy ; and the poor people of the hut brought 
 them some broth, made with fish and wild 
 herbs. They sat around it in a circle, eating 
 all out of one bowl ; and having ended their 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 xir. 
 
 ' — „ — ' 
 
 Straggler* 
 from the 
 Army. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 334 
 
 chap, supper, began to sing. — So relative is human 
 ■ ‘ happiness ! 
 
 Distinction We left Rossochinshaia on the eighteenth ol 
 CoS of June. All the Cossack inhabitants of the steppes, 
 Indof'tC from Kasanhaia to Tcherkask, have light brown 
 Don ' hair, and are a different race from the genuine 
 Cossacks of the capital, and those dwelling in 
 stanitzas along the Don. Lieutenant-Colonel 
 Papof, a Cossack officer of the highest merit 
 and talent, of whom we shall hereafter speak, 
 told us that the people of the steppes were 
 emigrants, of recent date, from Poland. 
 
 It would be tedious to notice, upon every 
 occasion, the extraordinary number of tumuli, 
 seen during the whole route ; but the Reader 
 is requested to bear in mind the curious fact 
 of their being everywhere in view. Close to 
 the post-house at Pichovskaia, the first place 
 where we halted this day, there were two 
 mounds of a very remarkable size ; one on each 
 side of the road. The horses here were without 
 shoes, and the road was as excellent as it is 
 possible to imagine. The whole country re- 
 sembled one vast verdant lawn. Stories of 
 danger were renewed : the lances of our Cossack 
 escort were twelve feet in length ; and an 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 335 
 
 unusual degree of caution prevailed among chap. 
 
 them, as to their means of defence. They v..- v 
 
 provided themselves with fire-arms : these they 
 said were now necessary ; and a very sharp 
 look-out was made, the Calmuchs increasing 
 in number as we advanced more into the 
 interior. 
 
 We arrived at Ramenskaia, a stanitza upon Kamen- 
 the Danaetz, generally written Donetz : we 
 
 crossed this river by means of a floating bridge, 
 as the post-house was upon the opposite side. 
 
 The town made a great figure, as we descended 
 towards the valley wherein it was situate ; 
 owing to its fine church, and its numerous 
 gardens : the river itself, also, exhibiting a 
 
 broad stream winding among the trees, had a 
 noble appearance. We observed in the streets 
 a kind of gingerbread for sale, which is common 
 in our English fairs, and it is made into the 
 same form. The Ataman was at his country- 
 seat ; and we were told, that all the principal 
 Cossacks had their houses for summer residence 
 in the country. Just before entering the town, 
 a young Calmuck woman met us, sitting astride 
 upon a horse laden with raw horse-flesh, which 
 hung like carrion before her on either side. 
 
 She was grinning for joy at the treasure she 
 
 / 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 had obtained : this we afterwards found to be 
 really carrion. A dead horse, lying in the 
 ditch surrounding the town on the land side, 
 had attracted about thirteen dogs, which we 
 found greedily devouring what remained ; the 
 Calmuck having contested the prize with them 
 a few minutes before, and helped herself to as 
 much of the mangled carcase as she could 
 carry away. The post-master kept a tame 
 surohe, as large as a common terrier, perfectly 
 domesticated. This animal, he told us, only 
 remained with him one half of the year ; that 
 it constantly retired, for the other six months, 
 to a hole in the ground, near the house, and 
 there buried itself. Upon the approach of 
 spring, it regularly returned to its patron; 
 resuming its former habits, sitting upright, and 
 begging for bread and herbs as before. It 
 would always come to him, during the summer, 
 when called by the name of Washy ; but all 
 the bawling he could use, at the mouth of its 
 burrow, never drew it forth in the winter 
 season. 
 
 Higher up the Danactz, near the spot where 
 it receives the Lugan, are the Lugan iron-works 
 and cannon-foundry , belonging to the Crown : 
 these, at the time we travelled in the Cossack 
 
DON COSSACKS. 337 
 
 territory, were under the direction of Sir Charles c ^ p - 
 
 Gascoigne '. From thence the Emperor's artil- ' — 1 
 
 lery passes by water to the Black Sea. Sir 
 Charles found very excellent coal at Lngan : 
 in consequence of this discovery, and the con- 
 venience of situation for water-carriage, the 
 foundry was there established. 
 
 The remarkable appellation of the river at 
 Kamenskaia has perhaps already excited philo- 
 logical notice. In our maps it is written Donne z; 
 and in those of Germany, Donetz. We paid the 
 greatest attention to the pronunciation of the 
 natives; particularly of those Cossack officers 
 who, by their education, were capable of de- 
 termining the mode of orthography best suited 
 to the manner in which the word is spoken ; 
 and always found it to be Danaetz, although fre- 
 quently pronounced, as if a T was before the D, TmHu. 
 Tdanaetz, or Tanaets. But this is the name, 
 or nearly so, that was given by the Antient 
 
 (1) The author is desirous to correct here an error of the former 
 edition. There was nothing in the manner of Sir Charles Gascoigne’s 
 leaving his country, to warrant the notion entertained by some persons 
 in Russia of his being exempted from the benefit of the British laws. 
 He was formerly Director of the Carron Works in Scotland; and was 
 solicited by the late Empress Catherine, through the medium of 
 Admiral Grcig, her First Lord of the Admiralty, to enter into her 
 service : to this he agreed, and left Great Britain for Russia in 
 1786. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 Z 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Greeks to the Don, Tanais. The reason of this 
 may now be explained. When the word Tanais 
 was introduced into their language, it had re- 
 ference to another river, and not to the Don. 
 The subject is curious ; but it requires a better 
 knowledge of the geography of the country, 
 and better documents concerning the course of 
 the rivers, than any map yet published can 
 afford. Wc shall therefore accompany our own 
 observations by an outline, faithfully copied 
 from the latest surveys deposited in the Chan- 
 cery at Tcherkask. Had it not been for the 
 jealousy of the Russian police, we might have 
 published another more extensive view of the 
 whole territory of the Don Cossacks ; calculated 
 to manifest the prevailing ignorance concerning 
 the courses of the rivers, and the general 
 geography of all the country bordering the Sea 
 of Azof. It was prepared for us, in conse- 
 quence of an order from the Governor of the 
 district, by a party of officers belonging to the 
 Cossack army: but some agents of the police, 
 apprized of the circumstance, endeavoured to 
 excite a suspicion that we were spies, and we 
 were not permitted to profit by their intended 
 liberality. 
 
 In the first place, the Reader is requested, 
 before he examines this Map, to suppose him- 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Si/wvka 
 
 'tin act 
 
 iPromontvrv of Petruskina 
 
 Tortref* of __ , . , 
 
 Kastof NokhtA 
 
 \Ihmontory of Jlcpletskaia 
 
 Xivany 
 
 GricltJ v. rkttitr 
 ^ Si an it za 
 
 t^i Fort reft* of Aaol 
 .Kahn In itrka ia 
 
 Promontory of 
 
 IB. The, River Danaetz, before it enters the Doth, it called/ 
 Danaetz Sever Iky, or Northern Danaetz Where it is 
 supposed to leave; the- Don again,', it bears the name' of 
 Me pm you yontnV or Dead Daiiaetz. 
 
 Versta. 
 
 i !li Ma/tfat itov.rkoy 
 - C oionv of Mato ■ ru/yitins 
 
 1 Villttgeaf 
 Saxanitrkaia 
 
 Necrose vsk/lia ii 
 
 Seal» of gj Versts, at j Versts to thelnrlv, or of 
 14 miles English, at four miles 6 fiirlongs.ig Poles A . ofto the Inch 
 
 PART OF TDK 
 
 PROVINCE of RJlSTCVF, 
 in the Government of 
 KOYOGOROB SEYEE 8 KY; 
 Shewing all the different Mouths of the Dan: 
 and the Course of that Hirer from the . ■trme/UMi 
 Colony of Nakbtshivan , to the Sen of Azof with 
 the Course of the Dead 1 ) anaet z , being its 
 northern Hmhouchurc . also the situation of the 
 Fortrefse« of Kant of , \r. of , aal 1 a^anro.'k ; 
 Taken from the most accurate Surveys by the 
 Inspector of that Province — by the Author. 
 
 (tierla Want tint I /■ 
 It does not now ejcist , but the Name n't n< tins 
 
 fieri a Isles } 
 
 Sazanitskaia Promontory 
 
 so ft tiled from a Species of Fish named 
 
 ' — which are found there in proof abundance 
 
 Publijhed t\oy. r t.<*ig,y by T fade l i X' W. Duties, London , 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 339 
 
 self entering the mouth of the Don, and pro- 
 ceeding up the river, to the distance of about 
 ninety-nine miles 1 2 from its embouchure, and 
 rather more than forty-six’ above the town of 
 Tcherhask. Here he would find the Danaetz, 
 falling into the Don by two mouths separated 
 from each other by a distance of ten or 
 twelve miles. But the people have, for time 
 immemorial, entertained a notion, that, before 
 the Danaetz reaches the sea, it leaves the Don 
 again, and, taking a north-westerly direction, 
 falls into the Pains Mteotis, to the north of all 
 the other mouths of the Don. This northern- 
 most mouth of the Don (represented in the 
 annexed Map 3 ), owing to the river whose waters 
 its channel is supposed peculiarly to contain, is 
 called Danaetz, and, to express either its sluggish 
 current or its lapse into the sea, Dead Danaetz. 
 The Greeks, steering from the Crimea towards 
 the mouths of the Don, and, as their custom 
 was, keeping close to the shore 4 , entered first 
 this northernmost mouth of the river. It bore 
 then, as it does now, the name of Danaetz, 
 Tdanaetz, or Tanaets ; it matters not which of 
 
 ( 1 ) One hundred anil forty versts. 
 
 (2) Seventy versts. 
 
 (3) See Fig. S3, in the Map of the Mouths of the Dim. 
 
 (4) It ia still a mode of navigation in the Black Sea aud the Sett 
 <tf Azof. 
 
 7 . 2 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XII. 
 
340 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap, these ; for it will readily be admitted, that from 
 
 v, — t — j any one of these appellations the word Tana'is 
 would be derived'. Even in the present day, 
 the analogy between the words is so striking, 
 that, in hearing Tahtars and Cossacks name 
 this branch of the Don, particularly if uttered 
 with quickness and volubility, it seemed as fre- 
 quently pronounced Tana'is as Tanaetz. To 
 distinguish this branch of the Don from the 
 Danaetz, properly so called, they add to each an 
 epithet; the latter being called the Northern , 
 and the former the Dead Danaetz. 
 
 Camps of We traversed continued steppes, from Kamen-' 
 
 Caimucks. Camps of Culmucks were often stationed 
 
 near the road. We visited several ; but obtained 
 little information worth adding to the description 
 before given of this people. In one of those 
 camps, containing not more than four tents, we 
 found women only, busied in the distillation of 
 brandy from milk. The men were all absent ; 
 perhaps upon some predatory excursion. The 
 women confirmed what we had heard before, 
 concerning the materials used for distillation : 
 having made butter, they said, they were di- 
 stilling the butter-milk for brandy. We could 
 
 (l) The change from D into T, and vice versd, is one of the most 
 common modifications to which language is exposed. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 bardly conceive that brandy might be so ob- 
 tained ; but to prove it, they tapped the still, 
 as upon a former occasion, presenting a tuft of 
 camel’s hair soaked in brandy, that we might 
 taste, and be convinced. During the latter 
 part of this day’s journey, we observed many 
 dromedaries, grazing. We halted for horses at 
 Dubovskaia. Immense caravans were passing 
 towards the Ukraine. The very sight of their 
 burden is sufficient to prove the importance of 
 cultivating the steppes, where Nature only re- 
 quires solicitation, in order to pour forth her 
 choicest treasures. We noticed trains of from 
 sixty to a hundred waggons, laden entirely with 
 dried fish, to feed the inhabitants of the South of 
 Russia, who might be supplied with better food 
 from their own land than from all the rivers of 
 the Cossacks. 
 
 We proceeded to Grivinskaia, and here passed 
 the night; having travelled sixty-eight miles 8 this 
 day, notwithstanding the delays curiosity had 
 occasioned. In the morning of June l Qth, we 
 came to Tchestibaloshnia, meeting frequent par- 
 ties of Calmucks ; and through Tuslovshaia, to 
 the town of Axay, upon the Don, a settlement 
 
 (2) One hundred and two versts. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 belonging to the Cossacks of Teller kash. As we 
 drew nearer the river, the steppes were entirely 
 alive with swarms of the beautiful little qua- 
 druped before described under the name of 
 Suslic: some of these were white. Approaching 
 Axay, numerous camps of Cahnucks appeared in 
 every direction, over all the country around the 
 town. Some of their tents were pitched close 
 to the place. Others, more distant, covered 
 the lofty eminences above the Don. 
 
CHAP. XIII. 
 
 CAPITAL OF THE DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Arrival at Axay — Public Entry — Reception hj the Don 
 Cossacks — Population of their Territory — View of the 
 Don — Celebration of a Court Festival — Mode of Fasting 
 — Analogy between the Don and the Nile — Natural 
 Curiosities and Antiquities — Fishes — Extraordinary 
 Appearance of Tcherkask— Inhabitants and Public Build- 
 ings — Origin of the Cossacks — Causes of their Increase 
 — Emigrations — Foundation of their Capital — Circas- 
 sians — Commerce of Tcherkask — Polished Manners of 
 the People — Remarkable Wager — Survey of the Town 
 — Entire Houses moved — Diseases of the People — Greek 
 Impostor — Depart ure from T cherkask. 
 
 The Postmaster of Tuslovshaia met us, as chap. 
 
 . . „ , , . , XIII. 
 
 we drew near to ax ay. He had, without our v. , — 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 344 
 
 chap, knowledge, passed us upon the road, and given 
 » ^ very absurd notice to the inhabitants, that a 
 
 iiay. al at great General from England was upon the road 
 Public to the town. A party of Cossack cavalry, armed 
 with very long lances, came out to meet us, 
 and, joining our escort, took their station in the 
 van. The Postmaster, with his drawn sabre, 
 rode bare-headed by the carriage-side; and 
 in this conspicuous manner we made our 
 entry. As the annual inundation of the Don 
 had laid the streets of Tcherhask under water, 
 its Chancery had been removed to this place, 
 and almost all the principal families were in 
 Axay. We found the inhabitants waiting our 
 arrival, and the Cossack officers drawn out to 
 witness it. The Ataman of Axay came to us im- 
 mediately ; and we took care to undeceive him 
 with regard to our supposed generalship. It 
 Reception seemed to make no alteration, either in the 
 ^Cossacks, respect paid to us, or the welcome they were 
 disposed to give. Every possible attention and 
 politeness were manifested. We expressed an 
 inclination to proceed as far as Tcherhask the 
 same evening. The Ataman observed, that the 
 day was far advanced ; that the current of the 
 Don , swoln by the inundation, was extremely 
 rapid and turbulent; and that he could not 
 undertake to be responsible for our safety, if 
 we persisted in our determination. He had 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 345 
 
 already provided excellent quarters, in a spacious 
 and clean apartment, with numerous windows, 
 a balcony commanding a view of the Don, and 
 every protection that an host of saints, virgins, 
 and bishops, whose pictures covered the walls, 
 could afford. Their General was at his country- 
 seat, ten miles from the town 1 : an express 
 was therefore sent to him, for his instructions 
 concerning our future reception. In the mean 
 time, sentinels were stationed at our carriage ; 
 and an officer, with Cossack soldiers, paraded 
 constantly before our door. During the whole 
 time we remained in their country, the same 
 honours were paid to us ; and although we 
 frequently remonstrated against the confinement 
 thus occasioned to the young officers, we never 
 went out without finding the sentinels in waiting, 
 and the officer at his post. The shaman came 
 frequently to offer his services ; and the constant 
 endeavour of the people seemed to be, who 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 (1) “ Most of the richer Cossacks have houses in Tcherkask, which 
 they make their metropolis ; but pass the greater part of their time in 
 their farms, on the northern bank of the river. Plain/, the /Human, 
 said he kept there two hundred brood mares. He had, however, no 
 land in tillage, though he possessed a vineyard a little to the east 
 of Axy. Of the wine produced from these viueyards, they vaunted 
 greatly. The best always struck me as mixed with Greek wine, or 
 raisins. The ordinary wines are very poor, aud tasteless. Spirits are 
 very cheap, and much drunk. Plain/ himself took a glass of brandy, 
 with a spoonful of salt in it; as if brandy was hardly strong enough.” 
 
 Helen's MS. Journal. 
 
346 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap, should shew us the greatest degree of kindness. 
 
 X 1 Hearing us complain of the inaccuracy of the 
 Russian maps, they brought from their Chancery 
 (without any of those degrading suspicions which 
 had so often insulted us) their own accurate 
 surveys of the country, and allowed us free 
 access, at all times, to their most authentic do- 
 cuments. The secretaries of the Chancery were 
 ultimately ordered by their General to copy for 
 us a survey of the whole territory of the Don 
 Cossacks. That we were instigated to accept 
 of the offer by any other motive than a desire 
 of adding to the public stock of geographical 
 knowledge, may perhaps require no proof. The 
 Procurator' employed by the Russian Govern- 
 ment, however, thought otherwise ; it being a 
 maxim in the policy of that country, that “ to 
 enlighten , is to betray." This liberal intention of 
 the hospitable Cossacks was therefore thwarted ; 
 although no menace of the Russian police can 
 now prevent an acknowledgment, which would 
 equally have been made if we had been enabled 
 to communicate more interesting and valuable 
 
 ( I) “ The Procureur (Procurator) is a kind of comptroller, or 
 visitor ; appointed to watch over the execution of the laws ; to examine 
 the decision of courts of justice ; to visit the prisons ; attend the exe- 
 cutions, &c. He is generally a native of a different province from that 
 wherein he is stationed. At Tcherkask, he is always cl Russian , at 
 least not a Cossack Hcber’s Journal . 
 
 / 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 347 
 
 information to the geographers of Europe. It chap. 
 is some consolation that we were allowed to ^ — v — > 
 delineate the different channels of the Don, 
 towards its embouchure: this will be found a 
 faithful representation. For the rest, it may be 
 said, the course of the Doji itself is not accu- 
 rately given in our best maps ; and of the other 
 rivers falling into it, not even the names are 
 noticed. Those steppes which are described as 
 being so desolate, and which appear like a vast 
 geographical blank in every atlas, are filled with 
 inhabitants. Stanitsas are stationed along the 
 numerous rivers traversing them ; although the 
 common route, by not following the course of 
 any of those rivers, afford no knowledge of the 
 number of the people. They contain one hun- Population 
 dred stanitzus, or settlements, and two hundred Territory, 
 thousand Cossack inhabitants 5 . Of this number, 
 thirty-five thousand are in arms. There are 
 also, in the territory of the Don Cossacks, thirty 
 thousand Calmucks : five thousand bearin'? arms, 
 as persons who are ready at all times for actual 
 service. The last are not permitted to leave 
 the country, although it be extraordinary how 
 persons of their vagrant inclination and habits 
 
 (2) For a further account of their population, see the Note, extracted 
 Irom Mr. Heber’ s MS. Journal, iu a subsequent page, containing much 
 valuable information. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 can be restrained. It was before said of the 
 Cossacks, that they are attached to the Calmuchs, 
 and even intermarry with them ; but a Calvmck 
 can never be taught to endure a domestic life. 
 If compelled to live within walls, he would die 
 of the spleen; and always exhibits uneasiness if 
 there be any disposition towards confining him 
 in a house. 
 
 View of We had never beheld an acre of Asiatic terri- 
 the Dm ' tory ; therefore the land upon the south side of 
 the Don, although it consisted of flat and di earv 
 marshes, afforded to us an interesting prospect. 
 From our balcony we had a commanding view 
 of the river : it appeared broad and rapid, ex" 
 tending towards those marshes. At a distance* 
 eastward, we beheld Tcherhask, with its nu- 
 merous spires, rising, as it were, out of the 
 water. Upon the European side we observed 
 a neighbouring stanitza of considerable magni 
 tude, stationed, like Axay, upon a lofty eminence 
 above the water. The name Axay is a Tahtar 
 word, signifying white water. The Don, in this 
 part of its course, exhibits two colours. Near 
 to Axay it appears white, because it is here 
 shallow. A similar appearance may be observed 
 from the Castle of Coblentz in Germany, where 
 the Moselle falls into the Rhine: for some 
 distance after the junction, the two rivers appear 
 
 348 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
Island and Town of T S CHERCHASKOY 
 
 
 
 PiiUi.rhrJ Ay T. ihJri/A' W.OmriM. torulvn ■ 
 
# 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 flowing parallel to each other; exhibiting a 
 distinct and different colour which is peculiar to 
 the respective water of each current. In the 
 shallows of the Don, the Typha palustris flou- 
 rishes luxuriantly. We found the inhabitants 
 of Axay, and afterwards those of Tcherkask, 
 devouring this plant raw, with as much avidity 
 as if this article of diet had been connected 
 with some religious observance. The stalks 
 appeared in all the streets, and in every house, 
 bound into little fascines about three feet in 
 length, as our gardeners bind asparagus : these 
 bundles were hawked about, or sold in the 
 shops. The season for eating this vegetable 
 had just commenced. The Cossacks, peeling off 
 the outer cuticle, select near the root of the 
 plant a tender white part of the stem ; which, 
 for about the length of eighteen inches, affords 
 a crisp, cooling, and very pleasant article of 
 food. We ate of it heartily, and became as fond 
 of it as were the Cossacks ; with whom, young 
 or old, rich or poor, it is a most favourite 
 repast. The taste is somewhat insipid ; but in 
 hot climates, this cool and pleasant vegetable 
 would be highly esteemed. The Cossack officers, 
 however, who had been in other countries, said 
 that it is only fit for food when it grows in the 
 marshes of the Don. 
 
350 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap. The morning after our arrival, the General, 
 — v — > who was Commander-in-chief over all the 
 tl'un o™a district, including the town of Tcherkask , as the 
 Festival, metropolis, came to Axay. The day was to be 
 celebrated as a festival, in honour of the recovery 
 of one of the Emperor’s children from the small- 
 pox inoculation. He invited us to dinner ; and 
 in the forenoon we accompanied him, with all 
 the staff-officers, to a public ceremony in the 
 church. Entering this building, we were much 
 surprised by its internal magnificence. The 
 screen of the altar was painted of a green colour, 
 and adorned with gold : before it was suspended 
 a very large chandelier, filled with tapers of green 
 wax. This screen, and all the interior of the 
 church, were covered with pictures; some of 
 them being tolerably well executed, and all of 
 them curious, owing to their singularity, and 
 to the extraordinary figures they served to 
 represent. Here were no seats, as in other 
 Russian churches. The General placed himself 
 against a wall on the right hand facing the 
 sacristy, standing upon a step covered with a 
 carpet, which was raised about four inches 
 from the level of the floor. We were directed 
 to place ourselves by his right hand. The other 
 Cossacks, whether in military or civil dresses, 
 stood promiscuously in the body of the church. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 The priest, in very rich robes, with his back 
 towards the people, was elevated upon a kind 
 of throne, placed beneath the chandelier, and 
 raised three steps from the platform, facing the 
 great doors of the sacristy, which were shut. 
 Over these doors there was a picture of the 
 Virgin; and before it, suspended by a string, 
 were two wooden angels, joined back to back, 
 like the figures of Janus, bearing candles in 
 their hands. Whenever the doors of the . 
 sacristy were thrown open, the wooden angels 
 were lowered before the centre of the entrance : 
 here they were whirled about in a most 
 ludicrous manner. 
 
 As soon as the ceremony commenced, the 
 priest, standing upon the throne, loosened a 
 girdle, bound across his breast and shoulders, 
 whereon was an embroidered representation of 
 the cross. This he held between his fore- 
 finger mid thumb, repeating the service aloud, 
 and touching his forehead with it; while the 
 people chaunted responses, and were busied 
 in crossing themselves. The vocal part of the 
 ceremony was very solemn. The clear shrill 
 voices of children placed among the choristers, 
 reaching to the dome of the church, and seeming 
 to die away in the air, had a most pleasing 
 effect. It is the same in all the Russian churches ; 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 352 
 
 chap, and perhaps there is nothing with which it 
 
 * may be more aptly compared than the sounds 
 
 produced by an iEolian harp. The words they 
 use are Russian; and these are everywhere the 
 same, “ Lord have mercy upon us!"' We did 
 not find them altered even among the Cossacks ; 
 it was still “ Ghospodi pomilui /” but trilled 
 
 In notes with many a winding bout 
 Of linked sweetness long drawn out” 
 
 At last there was an interval of silence : after 
 v this, other voices, chaunting solemn airs, were 
 heard within the sacristy. The doors were then 
 thrown open ; and a priest, bearing upon his 
 head a silver chalice, containing the conse- 
 crated bread, covered with a white napkin, 
 made his appearance. He was preceded by 
 others, who advanced with censers, dispersing 
 incense over the doors of the sacristy, the 
 pictures, the priests, the General, the officers, 
 and the people. After some other ceremonies, 
 bread was distributed among the congrega- 
 tion : then those who came out of the sacristy 
 having retired, its doors were again closed, 
 and prayers were read for all the Royal family ; 
 
 (1) It is an antient Heathen prayer. Vomits says that Ki/jis h.iw» . 
 was a usual form of prayer among the Gentiles as well as the Jews, 
 So Arrian, ah 1 TntK).ouptvos, htcptfiet aurov, Kugit Ixir.irov' 11 Culling 
 upon God, tee pray, Lord have mercy upon us!" Jrrian. lipid, 
 lib. ii. c.l. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 their names being enumerated in a tone of 
 voice and manner resembling that of a corporal 
 or a serjeant at a roll-call. Passages were also 
 read from the Psalms; but the method of 
 reading, in Russian churches, cannot easily be 
 described. The young priests who officiate, 
 pride themselves upon mouthing it over with 
 all possible expedition, so as to be unintelli- 
 gible, even to the Russians; striving to give to 
 a whole lesson the appearance of a single word 
 of numberless syllables. Some notion may be 
 formed of this bruiting, by hearing the crier in 
 one of our courts of justice, when he administers 
 the oath to a jury. 
 
 The dinner given by the General, after this 
 ceremony, served to prove, that among Cossacks, 
 as elsewhere, religious abstinence by no means 
 implies privation as to eating and drinking. We 
 were taught to expect a meagre diet ; but we 
 found the table covered with all sorts of fish, 
 with tureens of sterlet soup, with the rich wines 
 of the Don, and with copious goblets of deli- 
 cious hydromel or mead, flavoured by juices of 
 different fruits. We took this opportunity to 
 request the General's permission to open one 
 of the tumuli in the neighbourhood. It was 
 granted, and an order was given for thirty of 
 the Cossack soldiers to assist us in the under- 
 vol. x. 2 a 
 
 353 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 I — j 
 
 Mode of 
 Fasting. 
 
354 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 1 * ' 
 
 taking: but afterwards, when we had assembled 
 our workmen, an alarm was spread, and 
 speedily increased, by the observations of an 
 ignorant physician, that the plague might be 
 thus communicated to the people : in conse- 
 quence of which we were lorced to abandon 
 the design. Several of the Cossacks, never- 
 theless, assured us that they had formerly 
 opened several mounds; and affirmed that they 
 had found in them bones of men and ot horses. 
 Sometimes, they said, (and this, it true, would 
 be indeed remarkable,) that gun-barrels were 
 discovered in these tombs, exhibiting very 
 antient workmanship. A Cossack officer shewed 
 to us a very extraordinary weapon of this 
 nature, which he declared had been discovered 
 in one of the mounds in the steppes. But, not- 
 withstanding all that may be urged concerning 
 any knowledge which the Chinese and Oriental 
 hordes are supposed to have possessed of gun- 
 powder before its use in Europe, it must appeal 
 evident that such weapons were derived from 
 the inhabitants of Poland, who employed them 
 with matchlocks ; yet the officer alluded to had 
 no motive for deviating from truth. Other 
 things, (such as vessels of terra-cotta, and instru- 
 ments of war, common to antient nations,) said 
 to have been found in these heaps, are more 
 consistent with probability. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 355 
 
 In the evening of this day we embarked 
 
 upon the Don, for Tclierkask, accompanied by v — 
 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Alexi Gregorivitch Papof. 
 
 To this officer we were indebted for instances 
 of hospitality and polite attention, such as 
 strangers might vainly expect in more enlight- 
 ened cities of Europe. His education had been 
 liberal, although received in the marshes of the 
 Don ; and his accomplishments might have 
 graced the most refined society, although ac- 
 quired among the natives of Tclierkask 
 
 In almost all its characteristics, the Don Analogy 
 
 between 
 
 bears resemblance to the Nile. It has the same * he Ban 
 regular annual inundation, which covers a me. * 
 
 (l) Colonel Papof has since published an account of the Don 
 Cossacks, in a work which was printed at Charkof in 1814. Mr. Heber, 
 in his observations on Axay, has offered a genuine tribute to the 
 enlightened minds of the Cossacks of the Don. “ There is here a very 
 decent Kabak, with a billiard-table, and a room adorned with many 
 German engravings; and one English print, that of The Death of 
 Chevalier Bayard. The Cossacks, having never heard of the Chevalier 
 sans reproche, called it The Death of Darius. On my asking if Bourbon 
 was Alexandra Macedonsky , tbey answered, to my surprise, that he 
 was “not present at the death of Darius, and shewed themselves 
 well skilled in his history, which one would hardly expect.” Heber’ s 
 MS. Journal. 
 
 “ Education among the Cossacks is not so low as is generally 
 thought, and it improves daily. All the children of officers are sent 
 to the academy of Tcherkask, and learn French, 'German, &c. It was 
 holiday-time when we were there ; but their progress was well spoken 
 of.” Ibid. 
 
 2 A 2 
 
356 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 c ^ap- great extent of territory. Over this we now 
 
 — 1 passed by water to Teller hash. The water 
 
 retires in the month of July or August. The 
 same aquatic plants are found in both rivers ; 
 tall flags, reeds, and bulrushes, sometimes rising 
 to the height of twenty feet. The manner of 
 their entrance into the sea, by several mouths, 
 is also the same ; forming small islands, as in 
 the Delta, with fens and morasses. Both one 
 and the other serve as boundaries to two prin- 
 cipal quarters of the globe. When the waters 
 retire, the astonishing variety of insects might 
 induce a zealous entomologist to visit tire Don, 
 if it were only on their account. During the 
 inundation, when the waters were at the 
 highest, we observed above thirty different 
 kinds of flies, at the same instant, upon the 
 tables of our apartment. Many of these we 
 collected, but they were too much injured in 
 the subsequent journey to be delineated. The 
 whole course of the Don is about six hundred 
 and sixty-six miles'. It rises near Tula, in a 
 lake called Ivan Ozero, or St. John's Sea. Below 
 Wormetz, it is from three hundred to six hun- , 
 dred fathoms broad ; and of sufficient depth for 
 ships of burthen, from the middle of April to 
 
 (I) One thousand versts. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 as 7 
 
 the end of June : during the rest of the year, 
 the water is so low, that upon several of the 
 shallows it is not above eighteen inches deep 8 . 
 In the Spring floods it rises from sixteen to 
 eighteen feet, and the current is very rapid. 
 The principal rivers falling into it are, the 
 Danaetz, the JVoronetz, the Ckoper, the Med- 
 veditz, and the Ilavla 2 3 ; but there are others, 
 unnoticed hitherto by geographers, not perhaps 
 of equal importance, although entitled to a 
 place in maps of the country, owing to the 
 number of inhabitants found upon their shores. 
 
 About twenty miles below JVoronetz, close to 
 the river, near a town called Kastinshoy, Gmelin 
 observed one of those deposits of fossil 
 elephants’ bones, of which there exist such 
 wonderful remains in Siberia, at the mouths 
 of rivers falling into the Jcy Sea. These bones 
 are described as lying in the greatest disorder ; 
 teeth, jaw-bones, ribs, vertebras, not mineralized, 
 but in their natural state, having only sustained 
 a partial decomposition 4 . The antiquities of the 
 
 (2) Lord Whitworth's Account of Russia, p. 1 20. Strawberry Hill, 
 edit. 1788 . 
 
 (3) Tableau abrflg<5 de l’Empire de la Russia, par Pleschtjeief, p.23. 
 Moscou, 1796. 
 
 (4) Journal des Savans Voyageurs, p. 34. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Natural 
 Curiosities 
 and Anti- 
 quities. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 358 
 
 chap. Don arc also worthy of a more particular de- 
 . Xul ~ > scription than can now be afforded. A tradition 
 exists in the country, that Alexander the Great 
 passed the Don, and built a city, or a citadel, 
 upon the river, at a place called Zimlanskaia, 
 two hundred miles above the town of Tclierkask, 
 where the best Don wine is now made. Some 
 insignificant traces of such a work are still said 
 to be visible. At General Or/of s house were 
 two Stiles of marble, actually brought from 
 thence. The Cossacks are too little interested 
 in such matters to invent tales of this kind ; 
 and they would do so the less where no 
 inquiry was made to instigate them. The infor- 
 mation, such as it is, was given spontaneously ; 
 and, indeed, the circumstances of their tradi- 
 tion are somewhat corroborated by reference 
 to antient history. The ITHAAI or Pillars 1 2 of 
 Alexander were, according to Ptolemy, in Asiatic 
 Sarmatia, and in the vicinity of the Tanah*. 
 The Altars or BtlMOI of Alexander were on the 
 
 (1) Th$ Reader will pardon the author’s reference to his account of 
 the Cambridge Marbles , for a more particular description of the Monu- 
 mental Pillar called Stcib; for this word having been almost always 
 improperly translated, has given rise to much error in our notions of 
 antient history. 
 
 (2) 'Eirixovffi 51 xk) at /t*!v 2JTHAAI. Plolomen Geogr. lib . v. 
 
 p. 264. Edit. Par. 1546. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 359 
 
 European side of the river 5 : of these we shall ™'\ r- 
 have occasion to speak hereafter. We heard, *- 
 moreover, of coins of Alexander; but none were 
 to be seen. Perhaps, among the numerous 
 Greeks who reside in Tcherkask, both spurious 
 and genuine coins of Alexander may have been 
 found, and thus have given foundation to the 
 report. Of the marble Stela:, however, the 
 history is unequivocal ; because General Orlof 
 himself, who possessed them, and who issued 
 orders for their removal from Zimlanshaia, gave 
 to us the intelligence. The boats upon the 
 D on exhibit the most antient form of vessel 
 used for navigation; that of a canoe, scooped 
 from a single tree, consisting of one piece of 
 timber : in this they move about with a single 
 paddle. Sometimes, as in the South Seas, they 
 join two of those canoes by transverse planks 
 laid across, and so form a kind of deck, capable 
 of conveying considerable burthens 3 4 . The 
 breadth of the river at Axay, at this season of 
 the year, appeared to be at least half a mile. 
 
 The current is rapid, and even turbulent. The 
 fishes caught in it are much too numerous to be 
 mentioned, as perhaps there is no river in the 
 
 (3) Ptolemsei Geogr. ibid. p. 142. 
 
 (4) See the Vignette to this Chapter, from a drawing by Mr. Heber. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 world affording a greater variety, or in greater 
 perfection. Among the principal are, the beluga, 
 the common sturgeon, the sterlet, sudak, trout, 
 Prussian carp, tench, pike, perch, water-tortoises, and 
 crawfsh of an enormous size. Some of the last, 
 equal in size to our lobsters, are caught in great 
 abundance, by sinking small cylindrical nets, 
 about six inches in diameter, baited with pieces 
 of salted fish. They sold at the rate of two- 
 pence (English) per hundred; and in certain 
 seasons of the year the same number may be 
 had for half that sum. The beluga is the largest 
 eatable fish known. In the kidneys of very 
 old belugas are sometimes found calculi, as large 
 as a man’s fist. Professor Pallas gave us a 
 concretion of this nature, which Doctor Tennant 
 has since analyzed: it consists almost wholly 
 of phosphat of lime. The lower sort of people 
 keep these calculi as talismans, for the cure of 
 certain disorders. Strahlenberg relates, that he 
 saw a beluga fifty-six feet long, and near eighteen 
 feet thick. In the Dan they seldom exceed 
 twelve feet in length. This fish, in its shape, 
 resembles the sturgeon. One of the oldest fisher- 
 men upon the Don possessed a secret, enabling 
 him to ensnare the largest belugas ; but he would 
 not communicate to any one his valuable dis- 
 covery. We saw him fishing at a considerable 
 distance from our boat, and could distinctly 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 perceive that lie plunged a hollow cylinder 
 vertically into the river, causing a noise under 
 water, like the bursting of an air-bubble : this 
 might be heard from the shore, on either side. 
 
 The appearance of Tcherhask, viewed from 
 the river, affords a most novel spectacle. 
 Although not so grand as Venice, yet it some- 
 what resembles that city. The entrance to it 
 is by broad canals, intersecting it in all parts. 
 On each side, wooden houses, built on piles, 
 appear to float upon the water: to these the 
 inhabitants pass in boats, or by narrow bridges 
 only two planks wide, with posts and rails, 
 forming a causeway to every quarter of the 
 town. As we sailed into this city, we beheld 
 the younger part of its inhabitants upon the 
 house-tops, sitting upon the ridges of the 
 sloping roofs, while their dogs were actually 
 running about and barking in that extraordinary 
 situation. During our approach, children leaped 
 from the windows and doors, like so many frogs, 
 into the water, and in an instant were seen 
 swimming about our boat. Every thing seemed 
 to announce an amphibious race : not a square 
 inch of dry land could be seen : in the midst 
 of a very populous metropolis, at least one half 
 of its citizens were in the water, and the other 
 half in the air. Colonel Papnf conducted us to 
 
 361 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Extraordi- 
 nary Ap- 
 pearance of 
 'J'cherka&k. 
 
 Inhabi- 
 
 tants. 
 
362 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap, the house of a General, the principal officer and 
 __ Ataman of Tcherkask'. This person was a 
 merchant, and very rich. His house, like all 
 those we saw afterwards, was extremely neat, 
 and elegantly furnished. Upon the walls of the 
 apartments were French and English prints : 
 among others, we noticed one, a very fine en- 
 graving, taken from a picture of more than 
 common interest. It represented Rousseau, in 
 his last moments, desiring his housekeeper to 
 open the window, that he might once more 
 behold the face of Nature. The General, having 
 requested that we would accept of his services 
 while we remained in the city, appointed an 
 officer to attend us, to provide us with sen- 
 tinels, and whatsoever else might be deemed 
 necessary. 
 
 The town of Tcherkask is divided into 
 eleven stanitzas, and contains fifteen thousand 
 inhabitants. The number of houses amounts to 
 three thousand; allowing, upon the average, 
 five persons to each. This, from all we could 
 learn, is the true state of the population. Here 
 
 (1) “ The internal government of Tcherkask is exercised, under the 
 Ataman, by a Mastor of Police, and a Chancery of four persons. The 
 Police Master, and, on some solemn occasions, the Ataman, is distin- 
 guished by a large staff, with a silver filigree head, resembling that of 
 a drum-major.” Heber’s MS. Journal. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 363 
 
 are seven churches; four built of stone, and C 5 ? 1 I ^ I P - 
 three of wood. One of the latter description ' — 
 
 • . . Public 
 
 is tor Tahtar worship, the Tahtars having a Buildings. 
 stanitza in Tcherkask peculiar to their own 
 people. Their religion is Mahomcdan; and their 
 church perfectly unadorned, being built with 
 the utmost simplicity, and containing only a 
 little recess, with a pulpit for the priest, and 
 a gallery for boys and young men. The elders 
 only enter the lower part of the building : this 
 is covered with carpets ; and, as in Turkey, no 
 one is permitted to enter wearing boots or 
 shoes. Nevertheless, upon this sacred floor 
 they transact their commerce; for we found 
 a Tahtar squatted, casting up his accounts, 
 and writing, with all his commercial papers 
 around him. 
 
 The first church erected in Tcherkask was 
 founded by Peter the Great as an inscription 
 placed in the wall implies ; but it has suffered 
 frequently from fire, as indeed have all the 
 other churches. It is now of stone ; and con- 
 tains a handsome screen, painted a bright 
 green colour, and richly gilded, as at Jixay. 
 
 They burn, moreover, green wax candles. In 
 this church are kept what they call their 
 regalia ; applying this term to republican, rather Regalia, 
 than to regal, ensigns of distinction. These 
 
364 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 c hap. were exhibited for our inspection, and consisted 
 
 ' v ‘ chiefly of presents from different sovereigns, 
 
 standards, and embroidered flags bearing the 
 Imperial arms ; politic donations, serving as 
 memorials, lest the Cossacks might forget to 
 what empire they belonged. Here we saw 
 lances, fashioned after the Asiatic manner, with 
 tufts of fine camel’s hair hanging from the point. 
 Perhaps the origin of such an appendage may 
 be referred to those barbarous periods when 
 Oriental nations drank the blood of their ene- 
 mies. An instrument of the same form has 
 been already described ; it is used by the 
 Calmucks, for drinking brandy; they thrust a 
 small lance with a tuft of camel’s hair into the 
 stills containing the spirit they procure from 
 mare's milk, and squeeze the tuft into the palm 
 of the hand, in order to drink what it has 
 thus absorbed 1 . With these lances were also 
 preserved silver-headed staves of their Atamans; 
 illuminated and beautiful manuscripts, chiefly 
 certificates of the brave conduct of their people 
 in war, sent as testimonials by various sove- 
 reigns whom they had served; and a map of 
 their territory, by the hand of the late Empress 
 Catherine. The standards she presented to 
 
 (l) See p. 314 of this Volume. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 365 
 
 them are exceedingly costly. Great part of their 
 
 regalia was burned in one of the terrible confla- — 
 
 grations to which their town has been exposed ; 
 and among the things then lost, were some 
 presents from Peter the Great. There still 
 remained one of his gifts, very characteristic of 
 that extraordinary man. Among the rich staves 
 of ebony, silver-headed, and magnificently 
 adorned, which different sovereigns have sent 
 to be borne by the Ataman, there appeared 
 one which was destitute of any other ornament 
 than what Nature had bestowed. Of this they 
 were more proud than of all the rest. It was 
 like the club we see usually represented with 
 the Figure of Hercules ; that is to say, of plain 
 unadorned wood, although covered with sturdy 
 knots, and calculated for the hands of a giant. 
 
 In the same church was also suspended the 
 singular picture of “ The Virgin with the Bleeding 
 Cheek," but with a remarkable addition to the 
 usual representation. Below the figure of the 
 Virgin, a hand appeared painted of the natural 
 size, as if it had been cut off and fastened to 
 the picture : a knife also was placed by the hand. 
 
 They related, that a priest having struck a 
 picture of the Virgin, wounded her in the cheek, 
 which ever afterwards continued to bleed; but 
 immediately the blow was made, the hand of 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 the priest came off, and remained, with the 
 knife, adhering to the picture. 
 
 There is another stone church in Tcherkask, 
 which suffered more recently from fire. About 
 four years ago, the inhabitants undertook its 
 reparation, and erected a screen ot great mag- 
 nificence, an astonishing piece of workmanship 
 for this part of the world. It is built in the 
 Grecian taste, and consists of fourteen Corin- 
 thian columns, covered entirely with burnished 
 gold. There are, besides, Corinthian pilasters; 
 also paintings in a more modern style, and more 
 pleasing than the stiff appearance usually exhi- 
 bited by such pictures in the Russian churches. 
 
 Almost all the other public edifices in Tcher- 
 kash are of wood. They are as follow : 
 
 i. The Chancery, where the administration 
 of justice, and all other public business, is car- 
 ried on. — This building contains their papers, 
 records, and other documents. One room is 
 appropriated to their assembly for public de- 
 bates : this much resembles our House of 
 Commons. It contained the Emperor's portrait; 
 and it was more like him than any we had seen. 
 When a general assembly is convened, it con- 
 sists of a President, with all the Generals, 
 
DON COSSACKS.' 
 
 Colonels, and Staff-officers. Their Councils 
 relate not only to military affairs, but to all v. 
 business which concerns the public welfare. 
 
 ii. Another Court of Justice, called Sclaves- 
 nesut, signifying “ Justice by Word ? — The as- 
 semblies here answer to our quarter-sessions. 
 Parties who have any disagreement come with 
 their witnesses, and state their grievances. 
 Each receives a hearing, and afterwards justice 
 is decided. 
 
 hi. The Public Academy : here their youth 
 receive instruction in geometry, mechanics, 
 physics, geography, history, arithmetic, ike. See. 
 
 iv. The Apothecaries- Hall. 
 
 v. The Town Hall of the eleven stanitzas 
 into which the town is divided. 
 
 vi. Six Prisons: four of these are for males, 
 and two for females. — The prisoners are suffered 
 to go about in their chains, for the purpose of 
 begging. 
 
 The Shops are very numerous; they are 
 kept chiefly by Greeks, and contain the produce 
 of Turkey; as pearls, cloth, shawls, tobacco, 
 fruit, &c. There are also two Public Baths; 
 and each stanitza has its respective tavern, 
 for liquors, brandy, wine, &c.; likewise its 
 traileur, or cook's shop, for victuals. Every 
 Saturday evening a ceremony takes place in all 
 
 367 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 * ' 
 
3G8 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap, the churches, called “ The benediction of bread: 
 
 , — 1 2 upon these occasions, five white haves are 
 
 placed in the middle of each church ; symbols 
 of those with which Christ fed the multitude. 
 The people then pray, that, “ as with five loaves 
 he fed five thousand, he would vouchsafe a 
 sufficiency of corn in the country for the bread 
 of its inhabitants, and bless it for their use." 
 
 origin of It is uncertain whence a notion originated, 
 
 tllG Ct)t m 
 
 sacks. that the Cossacks are of Polish origin ; but, as 
 it has become prevalent, a seasonable oppor- 
 tunity now offers to prove that it is founded in 
 error. The Cossacks have been acknowledged, 
 as a distinct people, nearly nine hundred years. 
 According to Constantine Porphyrogenetes, they 
 were called Casachs in the age of that writer. 
 This name is found in the appellation of a tribe 
 residing near Caucasus. “ And beyond the Pa- 
 pagian country,’’ says he', “is the country 
 called Casachia; but beyond the Casachs are 
 the summits of Caucasus." Our countryman, 
 Jonas Hamvay, calls the Don Cossacks “ a spe- 
 cies of TahtarsV’ Storch, who has written 
 
 (1) Kent elvwtiiv rrjf Tlx-rocyitif %Moct{ iffriv >» b Xtyopciv*) KA^AXIA, 
 
 civwfav 2s tvs KA2AXIAX b'gn ret KctvxetertK tiffin. Constanlinus dc Admi- 
 nistraiid. I m per. in fin. cap. xlii. p. 133. Lugd. But . 161 !• 
 
 ( 2 ) Hanway’s Travels, vol.I. p. 1)7. 
 
369 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 fully and learnedly on the subject, although he chap. 
 admits the resemblance they bear to Tahtars, in v Xm ~ 
 their mode of life, constitution, and features, 
 insists that they are of Russian origin s . Scherer , 
 
 who has appropriated a work entirely to the 
 investigation of their history, and continually 
 inculcates the notion of their Polish origin, 
 nevertheless opens his work with an extract of 
 a different nature ; but it has all the air of a 
 fable * * 3 . It is taken from Nestors Russian Annals. 
 
 A Russian Prince, and a Cossack Chief, at the 
 head of their respective armies, agree to deter- 
 mine their differences by a wrestling-match, 
 which ends in the assassination of the Cossack 
 by the Russian. This event is followed by the 
 subjugation of the Cossack territory 4 . To have 
 seen the Cossacks, and to have resided among 
 them, is sufficient to establish a conviction that 
 they have nothing in common with the Russians of 
 the present day, except the language they use. 
 
 Let us pay some attention at least to what they 
 
 ^ (2) Tableau Historique et Statistique de l'Empire de Russie, par 
 
 Store/,. Edit. Franfaise, tom 1. p.55. See particularly p. 24 of the 
 Notes of that volume. 
 
 (3) They are often described as a branch of the Poles, who migrated 
 in modern times to the marshes of the Don. The observation of Scherer, 
 concerning their language also, strengthens the notion of their Polish 
 origin : “ La longue des Cosaques est un rlialccte de la Polonoise, comma 
 celle-ci Vest de t’Esclavon." Annales de la Petite Russie, par Scherer 
 tom. I. p. 17 . Paris, 1788. 
 
 (4) Scherer, Tableau de la Petite Russie, tom. I. p. 9 . 
 
 VOL. I. 2B 
 
270 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 chap. sav of themselves. The Cossacks of the Don 
 — relate, that a party of their countrymen being- 
 engaged in their usual occupation ot hunting, 
 near the range of Mount Caucasus, met a number 
 of people, with whom they were unacquainted, 
 going towards the East ; and having inquired 
 who they were, the strangers answered, that 
 they were emigrants from Poland, who had fled 
 from the oppression of their nobles, and were 
 proceeding to Persia, to join the troops ot that 
 country against the Turks. The Cossacks told 
 them, they might spare themselves the trouble 
 of so long a march in order to exercise hostili- 
 ties against the Turks ; and persuaded the Poles 
 to return with them to the town of Tcherhask, 
 where they would find an asylum, and whence, 
 in concert with their own forces, they might 
 attack the fortress of Azof. Assisted by these 
 auxiliaries, and with only tour pieces ot cannon, 
 all the artillery they possessed at that time, 
 they laid siege to Azof, which fell into the hands 
 of the allied army. From the circumstances of 
 this alliance, first enabling the Cossacks to make 
 a figure among the nations at war with Turkey, 
 may have been derived the erroneous notion of 
 their having migrated from Poland, d he Cossacks 
 of the Don, according to the account the best 
 instructed give of their own people, (and they are 
 much better qualified to write their own history 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 371 
 
 than any of the Russian Academicians,) are a mix- 
 
 ture of various nations, principally of Circassians, ' — 
 
 Malo-Russians, and Russians, but also of Tahtars , 
 
 Poles, Greeks, Turks, Calmucks, and Armenians, 
 
 In the town of Tcherkask alone, and in the same 
 street, may be seen all tliese different people at 
 the same time, each in the habit peculiar to his 
 own nation. A considerable proportion of the 
 inhabitants have ever been refugees from Turkey , 
 
 Greece, or from other countries. Concerning the 
 original establishment of Tcherlcaslc, they relate, 
 that it was founded by refugees from Greece, 
 to whom the people of Azof denied admission, 
 and who, in consequence, proceeding farther up 
 the river, came to this island, where they made 
 a settlement ; giving to the place a name derived 
 from the people upon whose frontier it was 
 situate, and with whom they afterwards were 
 intermingled. The name of the town, although 
 pronounced Tcherkasicy, is written Tcher- 
 kask, implying “ The small village of the 
 Tcherkas," pronounced generally Tcherkess, or, 
 as we write it, Circassians. Thus, from a small 
 settlement of rovers, augmented principally by 
 intercourse with the neighbouring Circassians, 
 has since accumulated, like a vast avalanche, the 
 immense horde of the Cossacks. Before the 
 middle of the tenth century, they had already 
 reached the frontier of Poland, and had com- 
 b b 2 
 
372 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 ' ' 
 
 menced an intercourse with the people of that 
 country : this was often attended with an aug- 
 mentation of their horde by the settlement of 
 Polish emigrants among them. Their first notable 
 armament is said to have been in the year 94s 
 when the Greek Emperor employed them as 
 mercenaries in his war against the Turks. From 
 their address in archery, their neighbours had 
 given them the name of Choaars, and Chazars : 
 under this latter appellation they are frequently 
 mentioned by Constantine Porphyrogenetes, and 
 their country called Chazaria ®. The Greek 
 Emperor, for the services they rendered, sent 
 them, with assurances of protection, and recom- 
 mendatory letters, to the Polish Sovereign, 
 requesting that, in future, their appellation 
 might be Cossacks, and not Chozars 1 2 3 4 . As to the 
 origin of that name, some will have it to be 
 derived from a Tahtar word signifying An armed, 
 man* ; others, from the sort of sabre they use ; 
 others, from a word which signifies a Rover ; others 
 again pretend, that the Poles called them Cossacks 
 from a word in the Polish language implying 
 a Goat, because they formerly wore the skins 
 of that animal 5 . Scherer, objecting to this last 
 
 (1) Scherer, Tableau de la Petite Russie, tom. I. p. 67. 
 
 (2) See Const. Porphyrogenetea, cap. 10, 12, 13, 39, &e. 
 
 (3) Scherer, ibid. p. 71. 
 
 (4) Storch, Tableau de la Russie, tom. 1. p. 55. 
 
 (5) See “ A Discourse of the Original of the Cossacks,” by Edward 
 Brown, p. 1. Load. 1672. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 derivation, substitutes another still more frivo- 
 lous, and maintains it to have been taken from 
 Kossa, a small promontory 6 7 . In this wild pur- 
 suit of etymology, we might also affirm, that 
 Casaca, in Spanish, signifies precisely the sort 
 of coat they wear, answering to our English 
 word Cassock’’ , did not Peyssonnel much more 
 rationally, and perhaps incontestably, explain 
 the origin of their appellation. “ The land of 
 the Ckazacks,” says he 8 , “ formed a part of that 
 country now denominated Circassia, properly so 
 called. In this district of Chazakia, according 
 to my opinion, we ought to seek the origin of 
 the Cossacks of the present day.” This obser- 
 vation is actually confirmed by facts already 
 related, and by the extract from Constantine 
 cited in a former page: although so general 
 became the migrations of this people, that their 
 colonies now extend from the banks of the 
 Dnieper to the remotest confines of Siberia. 
 According to their different emigrations and 
 settlements, they are at present distinguished 
 by the various names of Ma/o-Russian Cossacks, 
 Don Cossacks, Cossacks of the Black Sea, of the 
 
 (G) Sclatrer, Tableau ile la Russie, tom. I. p. 67 . 
 
 (7) See letters concerning the Spanish Nation, by the Rev E. Clarke 
 (the author’s father), p. 338. 
 
 (8) Observations Historicities, &c. sur les I’euples Barbares, par 
 Peyssonnel, p. 125. Paris, 1765. 
 
374 
 
 CHAR 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Causes of 
 their in- 
 crease. 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Volga, of Grebenskoy, of Orenburg, of the Ural 
 Alps, and of Siberia ; where they have received 
 yet other appellations, and reach even to the 
 mountains of China, and to the Eastern Ocean. 
 It is necessary to confine our attention to the 
 principal hive, whence, with little exception, 
 all those swarms have migrated. 
 
 Nothing has contributed more to augment 
 the nation of the Don Cossacks, than the freedom 
 they enjoy. Surrounded by systems of slavery, 
 they ofter the singular spectacle of an increasing 
 republic ; like a nucleus, putting forth its roots 
 and ramifications to all parts of an immense 
 despotic empire, which considers it a wise 
 policy to promote their increase, and to gua- 
 rantee their privileges. As they detest the 
 Russians, a day may come, when, conscious of 
 their own importance, they will make their 
 masters more fully sensible of their power'. 
 A sage regulation in their military constitution, 
 from a very early period, induced them to grant 
 all the privileges they enjoy to all prisoners 
 of war who were willing to settle among them. 
 
 (1) After slightly noticing their most important revolts under Razin 
 and Boulavin , towards the end of the seventeenth, and in the begin- 
 ning of the eighteenth century, Storch observes, e< L’histoire de ces 
 rebellions cst asset intercssante pour occuper un dc nos historiens ntn- 
 dernes — See p. 26 of the Notes to Storch' s 1'ableau de la Russie 9 
 tom. I. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 Thus, from the success attending their incur- 
 sions, their numbers have rapidly increased. 
 In the year 1 579 , they made their appearance, 
 for the first time, in the Russian armies*. In 
 1734, their earliest colonies were established 
 upon the Volga. About the same time, another 
 colony marched towards the Terek, and settled 
 there. Towards the middle of the last century, 
 a detachment fixed their residence along the 
 banks of the Samara, the Ui, and the Ural, as 
 lar as the Kirgisian frontier. But by much the 
 most powerful detachment from the original 
 hive is established upon the shores of the 
 Caspian, at the mouth of the Ural river : it left 
 the Don in the beginning of the fifteenth cen- 
 tury, and has since been augmented by sub- 
 sequent emigrations from the parent stock. 
 This branch of the Don Cossacks joined in the 
 rebellion under Pugaichef. In order to annihi- 
 late the memory of their revolt, the Russian 
 Government prudently changed their name, 
 (which had hitherto been, Cossacks of the Jaik,) 
 together with the name of their capital, and of 
 the river upon which they resided 2 3 . 
 
 The most remarkable branch of the Don 
 Cossacks has been established in Siberia. It 
 
 (2) Storch, tom. I. p. 68. 
 
 (3) Ibid. p. 73. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 3/6 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 l 
 
 began its march towards the East in the six- 
 teenth century. A troop of between six and 
 seven thousand, under the conduct of their 
 Ataman, Jermak, penetrated into Permia, and 
 made the discovery of the country to which 
 we commonly apply the appellation of Siberia. 
 Their adventures, and those of their Chief, 
 might lay the foundation of a very interesting 
 romance ; but we may despair of seeing it con- 
 stitute a portion of history. They had gained 
 the heights of the Ural Alps, when the appear- 
 ance of vast deserts, tenanted by an unknown 
 and savage people, somewhat intimidated the 
 enterprising rovers. Jermak , full of zeal, ha- 
 rangues his little army. They descend the 
 mountains ; defeat and drive before them a 
 host of Tahtars; pursue their conquests even 
 to the Tobol, the Irtysch, and the Ob ; and termi- 
 nate their surprising march by the subjugation 
 of all the tribes dwelling between the Ural and 
 Altaic Chain. Unable, from the losses they had 
 sustained, and the obstacles they had yet to 
 surmount, to maintain possession of such exten- 
 sive territory, they were compelled to humble 
 themselves before the Russians. In 1581, Jermak 
 made the cession of his conquests, by formal 
 capitulation, to the Tsar Joan, who, in consi- 
 deration of the important services he had 
 rendered to the empire, not only pardoned him, 
 
DON COSSACKS. 377 
 
 but even recompensed his extraordinary talents chap. 
 and courage Thus was Siberia added to the L • 
 extensive possessions of Russia, by a Cossack of 
 the Don ; whose achievements were only less 
 illustrious than the boasted victories of an 
 Alexander, because no historian was found to 
 record them. 
 
 We have carried the history of the Don 
 Cossacks back to the period when they first 
 formed an establishment upon the Don. The FoumU- 
 foundation of Tcherkask, from their own ac- th5r Ca P i- 
 count, is attributed to the settling of some 
 rovers, probably exiles from Greece. The shores 
 of the Sea of Azof, and of the Black Sea, were, 
 in very early ages, what America, and more 
 recently New Holland, has been to Great Britain. 
 
 The Greeks sent thither many of their exiles; 
 and the custom was continued among the Romans, 
 as appears by the banishment of Ovid. The 
 opinion, therefore, of the Cossacks, concerning 
 the foundation of Tcherkask, is not without 
 support, even in antient history. With regard 
 to their own origin, as a nation, there is every 
 reason to consider it, for the most part, Cir- 
 cassian ; and, as such, the analogy with Poles or 
 Russians, instead of leading us to deduce the 
 
 (1) S torch, tom. I. p. 75. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 origin of the Cossacks from them, should rather 
 guide us to the parent stock, whence the Sclavo- 
 vian, the Polish, the Prussian, the Muscovitish, 
 Bohemian, and Transylvanian people and lan- 
 guages were severally derived. All the antient 
 historians and geographers confirm the truth ot 
 its march from Media, through the Straits of 
 Caucasus, towards the Tana'is, and round the 
 Euxine. Its first colonies were called Sarma- 
 tians : the earliest account of whom is given by 
 Herodotus; who places them between Caucasus 
 and the Tanais'. The defile of Caucasus has 
 been celebrated in all ages, offering the only 
 passage through that otherwise impenetrable 
 barrier. It bore the appellation of the Pylje 
 Sarmatic^e, from the Sarmat.®, who first 
 passed through it : Sar being, according to 
 Bochart, the Eastern mark of descent; as Sar- 
 madai, Sar-mat.*; that is to say, * Children 
 of the Modes' 1 2 3 .’ “ Diodorus Siculus observes 
 the revered author cited below, “ who knew 
 
 (1) Hcrodot, lib. iv. c. 117. 
 
 (2) XAPMATA!, SATPOMATAI, MAIXtTAI, were the same people. See 
 Bochart and the observations of the author’s Paternal Ancestor, in 
 his valuable Dissertation on the “ Connection of the Roman, Saxon, 
 and English Coins," p. 47. It is very grateful to make this tribute to 
 the acknowledged learning of an ancestor, to whose Work the Reader 
 is referred, not only for some of the authorities here noticed, but also 
 for the most important information collected by any writer, respecting 
 the original inhabitants of the countries bordering on the Black Sea, 
 
 and of their intercourse with the people of Antient Greece. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 3/9 
 
 nothing of the etymology, asserts the fact: C ^'^ I P ‘ 
 speaking of the several clans of the Scythians, 1 — v — 
 he says, that one came out of Media, settled 
 upon the banks of the Tana'is, and were called 
 Sauromatce V’ 
 
 The Circassians of the present day are a circat- 
 horde of banditti, inhabiting the region whence 
 the Cossacks originally descended. Continually 
 repelled from their antient boundary, the Tana'is 
 and Lake Mceotis , and ultimately driven beyond 
 the Kuban and the Terek, they hang, as it were, 
 upon the northern sides of Caucasus, or carry 
 on predatory incursions from the swampy plains 
 at its feet, above two hundred miles from 
 Tcherkask. These mountaineers, as well as the 
 Tahtars of Kuban, are ever at war with the 
 Cossacks. They pretended to make peace with 
 them at the end of the last Turkish war ; but, 
 whenever occasion offers, they seize the persons 
 of the Cossacks, or any strangers who may be 
 found among them, and sell them for slaves to 
 the Persians. Their manner of fighting, as de- 
 scribed by the Don Cossacks, is this ; they hide 
 themselves in the long reeds, or grass, of 
 marshes, lying even in the water, until they 
 reconnoitre the strength of their adversary. If 
 
 (3) Diod. Sic. lib.ii. p. 155. Ed .Wctslcin. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 380 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 ' ' 
 
 Commerce 
 of Teller - 
 kask. 
 
 five or six armed Cossacks appear, they remain 
 in ambush : if only two or three, they attack 
 these by surprise ; but even then they will run 
 away if the Cossacks have time to fire. II dis- 
 covered in their concealment, and interrogated 
 who they are, they assume an humble aspect, 
 and declare themselves friends. Some of the 
 Circassians were prisoners at /lx ay, when we 
 were there. The Cossacks, and all the inhabi- 
 tants of the Asiatic coasts of the Black Sea, call 
 the Circassians Tcherkess, and Tcherkessi, a fur- 
 ther confirmation of remarks before' made con- 
 cerning the etymology of the word Tcherkusle. 
 If it were necessary to make any addition to 
 what has been already written, with regard to 
 the relation they bear to the Cossacks and to the 
 other inhabitants of the Ukraine, many curious 
 circumstances might be alleged ; such, for ex- 
 ample, as the mode of accounting money, which 
 is the same among the Malo- Russians and Cir- 
 cassians. There are now Malo- Russians living in 
 the Caucasian mountains. The Circassians, more- 
 over, left their name in the appellation of a town 
 built upon the Dnieper. 
 
 The commerce of the Cossacks, and other in- 
 habitants of Tcherkask, is very various. The 
 principal articles of their exports are, fish, iron, 
 caviare, and a little wine; although, generally, 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 they consume all their wine. This wine resembles 
 the wines of Burgundy and Champagne, in ex- 
 hibiting effervescence. When it has acquired 
 a certain age, it sells in Tcherkask at a price 
 equivalent to three shillings and sixpence the 
 bottle. The Don wine is both red and white. 
 If the Cossacks would allow their grapes to 
 ripen, and were made acquainted with the 
 French mode of preparing this beverage, it 
 would certainly surpass all the wines of the 
 world ; so rich and generous is the fruit affording 
 it'. The Cossacks seldom use tobacco, and they 
 live to very advanced age. The merchants, in 
 their turn, go to war with the rest, and have 
 their rank in the army'. In fact, there are few 
 
 (1) “ The Don wine is sometimes very pleasant ; but it is, I suspect, a 
 fabrication, I tasted some that was warranted genuine, which I could 
 easily believe to be so ; it was, indeed, 
 
 ‘ As wicked dew as Sycorax could brush 
 With raven’s feather from unwholesome fen.’ ** 
 
 Heber's MS. Journal. 
 
 (2) “ The government of the armies of the Don differs, in many 
 respects, from the antient Mai o- Russian, and has lately suffered repeated 
 encroachments. Their territory, which is almost entirely pasture land, 
 is divided into stanitzas, or cantons ; for many stanitzas now contain more 
 than a single village. To each of these, a certain portion of land and 
 fishery is allotted by Government, and an annual allowance of corn from 
 Voronetz, and northwards, according to the returned number of Cossacks. 
 They are free from all taxes ; even from those of salt and distilleries. The 
 distribution of the land to the individuals in each stanitza is settled by the 
 inhabitants and their Ataman. This Ataman was chosen by the people, 
 
 and 
 
382 
 
 DON COSSACKS, 
 
 chap, generals or colonels, in the army of the Don 
 —s—' Cossacks, who are not merchants. In Tcherkash 
 
 and was both civil and military commander of the place. Paul had laid 
 some restrictions on this right, which I could not understand. He had 
 also ennobled the children of all who had the military rank of Colonel, 
 which was complained of, as introducing an unconstitutional aristocracy. 
 From these Atamans, an appeal lies to the Chancery at Tchcrkask. 
 They used to elect their Ataman there, and to appeal to him only; 
 assembling occasionally, as a check on his conduct j but he is now 
 appointed by the Crown , and greatly diminished in power. The allot- 
 ment of land and fishery which each Cossack possesses may be let out 
 by him to farm, and often is so ; and it is a frequent abuse to insert the 
 names of children in the return of Cossacks, to entitle them to their 
 seniority in becoming officers. I met with a child thus favoured. This 
 has taken place since the Cossacks, when called out, have been formed 
 into regular regiments, which has depressed entirely the power of the 
 village Ataman, by the introduction of colonels, captains, &c. Formerly,^ 
 the Ataman himself marched at the head of his stanitza. Now he merely 
 sends the required contingent, which is put under officers named by the 
 Crown. 
 
 Cf The Cossack , in consequence of bis allowance, may be called on 
 to serve for any term, not exceeding three years, in any part of the 
 world, mounted, armed, and clothed at his own expense, and making 
 good any deficiencies which may occur. Food, pay, and camp equi- 
 page, are furnished by Government. Those who have served three 
 years are not liable, or at least not usually called upon, to serve 
 abroad, except on particular emergencies. They serve, however, in 
 the cordon along the Caucasus, and in the duties of the post and po- 
 lice. After twenty years, they become free from all service, except 
 the home duties of police, and assisting in the passage of the corn 
 barks over the shallows in the Don. After twenty-five years’ service 
 they are free entirely. 
 
 “ The Procurator declared the whole number of Cossacks, liable to 
 be called on for one or more of these services, amounted to 200,000. 
 He acknowledged, that as they would allow no examination into their 
 numbers, he spoke only from conjecture, and from the different al- 
 lowances of corn, &c. occasionally made. The whole number of male 
 population he reckoned at half a million. The situation of a Cossack 
 
 is 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 they live an amicable and pleasant life. Some- chap. 
 .. , xiii. 
 
 times they have public amusements, such as 
 
 balls, and other assemblies of the same nature. 
 
 Once they had a theatre, but it was prohibited. 
 
 In some of their apartments we observed maho- 
 gany bookcases, with glass doors; each con- 
 taining a small library. They are in every 
 respect entitled to praise for cleanliness, whether 
 with reference to their persons or to their 
 houses. There is no nation more cleanly in its 
 apparel than that of the Cossachs. The dress of 
 
 is considered as comfortable ; and their obligations to service are 
 deemed well repaid by their privileges and their freedom. ‘ Free as 
 A Cossack’ is a proverb we have often heard in Russia. The number 
 of Cossack guards, who are all Dmisky, amounts to three regiments 
 of 1000 each. The riumher employed in Persia and Caucasus I could 
 not learn. In the year 1805, a corps of seventy-two regiments, of 
 560 men each, inarched under Plato/, the Alaman of Tcherkask: but 
 received counter orders, as it did not arrive in time for the battle of 
 Austerlitz. At Austerlitz, only sir hundred Cossacks were present. The 
 peasants near Austerlitz spoke of them as objects of considerable ap- 
 prehension to the French cavalry ; particularly the cuirassiers, whose 
 horses were more unwieldy. These Cossacks, Plato/ said, had suffered 
 dreadfully, as they were for some time the only cavalry with the Rus- 
 sian army, and, before the Emperor joined Kotuzof, had lost almost 
 ail their horses with fatigue. During the quarrel of Paul with Eng- 
 land, he assembled 45,000 Cossacks, as it was believed at Tcherkask, 
 to march to India. I saw the plan was not at all unpopular with Plato/ 
 and his officers. Plato/'s predeecssorovas the last Ataman who was 
 >u possession of all his autieut privileges. He had often, by his own 
 authority, bound men hand and foot, and thrown them into the Don. 
 He was unexpectedly seized and carried off by the orders of the Em- 
 press {Catherine) , and succeeded, as General of the Armies of the 
 Don, by Maffei Ivamwitch Plato/, a line civil old soldier, with the great 
 cordon of St. Anne." Heber's MS. Journal. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 the women is singular: it differs from all the 
 costumes of Russia; and its magnificence is 
 displayed in the ornaments of a cap, some- 
 what resembling the mitre of a Greek: bishop. 
 The hair of married women is concealed under 
 the cap, which is covered with pearls and gold, 
 or it is adorned with flowers. The dress 
 of a Cossack girl is elegant ; a silk tunic, with 
 trowsers fastened by a girdle of solid silver, 
 yellow boots, and an Indian handkerchief worn 
 as a turban upon the head. A proof of Cossack 
 wealth was afforded in the instance of the 
 mistress of the house where we lodged. This 
 woman walked about the apartments without 
 shoes or stockings ; but being asked for some 
 needles to secure the insects we had collected, 
 she opened a box, wherein she shewed us pearls 
 valued at ten thousand roubles. Her cupboard 
 was, at the same time, filled with plate and 
 costly porcelain. The common dress of men in 
 TcherJcask is a blue jacket, with a waistcoat and 
 trowsers of white dimity ; the latter so white 
 and spotless, that they seem always new. The 
 tattered state of a traveller’s wardrobe but ill 
 fitted us to do credit to our country in this 
 respect. We never saw a Cossack in a dirty 
 suit of clothes. Their hands, moreover, are 
 always clean, their hair free from vermin, their 
 teeth white, and their skin has a healthy and 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 385 
 
 cleanly appearance. Polished in their manners, chav. 
 instructed in their minds, hospitable, generous, ^ • 
 
 disinterested, humane and tender to the poor, m^Lr 
 good husbands, good fathers, good wives, good Ae Pcople - 
 mothers, virtuous daughters, valiant and dutiful 
 sons; such are the natives of Tcherkask. In 
 conversation, the Cossack is a gentleman ; for he 
 is well-informed, free from prejudice, open, 
 sincere, and honourable. Place him by the side 
 of a Russian , — what a contrast! 1 Yet the author 
 would not be understood, in the eulogy he has 
 bestowed upon the one, or the censure he has 
 perhaps too indiscriminately lavished upon the 
 other, as having used observations without ex- 
 ception on either side. The Russian women are 
 entirely excepted ; and it is very remarkable. 
 
 (l) “ The manners of the people struck us , from their superiority 
 to the Russians, in honesty and dignity. A Lieutenant at Petersburg, 
 "ho once begged alms from us, bowed himself to the ground, and 
 knocked his head on the floor. A Lieutenant here ( Tcherkask ), 
 who was imprisoned, and also begged, made the request in a manly 
 and dignified manner, and thanked us as if we had been bis comrades. 
 
 “ Both men and women are handsome, and taller than the Mysco- 
 titis. This name they hold in great contempt, as we had several op- 
 portunities of observing. The Procurator, the Physician, the Apo- 
 thecary, and the Master of the Academy, being distinguished by their 
 <lress and nation from the Cossacks, seemed to have formed a coterie of 
 their own, and to dislike, and to he disliked by, the whole town. The 
 p ostinaster said they were much improved since he came there ; that 
 then they would have pelted any stranger. We saw nothing of this 
 hind, except that, when we first landed, mistaking' us for Russians 
 some boys cried out, ‘ Moscoffsky Canaille 1 ' — Canaille has become a 
 naturalized word in Russia.” Heber’s MS. Journal. 
 
 VOL. I. 2 C 
 
386 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 c J i A p - that little of the lamentable characteristics of 
 — v — 1 the Russian people 1 can be applied to them. It 
 is only in proportion as they recede from their 
 natural effeminacy, that any traits have appeared 
 to liken them to the men of their country : an 
 instance or two of this kind may have been 
 mentioned; but, speaking generally of them, 
 they have this only fault, if it be not rather a 
 misfortune, that of servility to the most abject 
 slaves. 
 
 (lj At the time of making this extract from my Journal, our Eng- 
 lish papers are filled with the atrocities committed, not merely by their 
 common soldiers, but by their general-officers in Finland. An ac- 
 count of them is published by the Lord-lieutenant of the county of 
 Fasa, to which his respectable name is affixed. Posterity may there 
 be informed what Russians were in the beginning of the present cen- 
 tury, when a Major-general, Demidof, gave up the town of Vasa, 
 during five days, to plunder, merely because he could not retain its 
 possession ; and, assisted by another monster in a human form, the 
 Governor Emine, galloped through the streets, to give vigour and ac- 
 tivity to a scene of murder, horrible cruelty, and devastation ; crying 
 out to his troops. Dobra ! dobra ! (Bravo ! bravo !) as they were 
 bayonetting the weeping and kneeling inhabitants, mothers with their 
 infants, aged and venerable men, ladies of distinction, children, and 
 persons of whatever sex, age, or situation. “ It instructs the world,” 
 observes the Lord-lieutenant, “ to describe their conduct ; inasmuch 
 as it determines their national character ; and determines, with his- 
 toric truth, that with barbarian slaves the character remains un- 
 changed, notwithstanding the varnish put on by a sort of external 
 humanizing, produced by intercourse with civilized nations.” In the 
 parish of Nerpis, Major-general Orlof Dcnesof caused three of the 
 peasants to be bound together : and this being done, to prolong the 
 pain and agony of the poor sufferers, the Russians pierced their 
 thighs, arms, belly, and other parts, with bayonets, before they killed 
 them. 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 387 
 
 Perhaps an anecdote, which may now be C ^ I I J V I P - 
 
 related, will render the contrast between Cossacks ' 
 
 and Russians more striking. The truth of it, 
 owing to its notoriety, will not be disputed by 
 either party. When a quarrel among the Cossacks 
 causes them to combat each other, they fight, 
 as in England, with their fists, and never with 
 knives, daggers, or any similar weapon. This 
 practice is so established a characteristic of the 
 people, that it gave rise to a very remarkable 
 wager. Teplof and Gelagin, two of the late Remark- 
 Empress Catherines privy-counsellors, chanced w ag «r. 
 to be in her presence, when it was told her 
 that a Cossack priest, then a monk in the Convent 
 of St. Alexander Nevsky, had been arrested for 
 cutting the throat of a young woman, whom he 
 had made pregnant, and with whom he had 
 quarrelled : upon this Teplof offered to wagej^ 
 with Gelagin that the monk was not a Cossack. 
 
 The bet was made, and won by Teplof; the 
 monk proving to be a Russian. Being questioned 
 how he could possibly divine the probable 
 success of his wager ; “ Because,” said he, “ no 
 Cossack would strike a woman: if he did, he 
 would use his cane ; not his knife.” 
 
 It was during one Sunday evening that Lieu- Survey of 
 tenant-colonel Papof conducted us over the 
 whole of Tcherkask. We walked a distance 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 388 
 
 chap, equal to four miles without once being off a 
 . XUL . bridge. The people were all in their best attire ; 
 and the sight on that account was the more 
 interesting. From the high and narrow bridges, 
 single planks frequently lead off, as the only 
 mode of approaching the houses of the inha- 
 bitants: these have covered galleries around 
 them. In those galleries, where the deal, ol 
 which they are constructed, was as white as 
 water and the sun’s rays could make it, sat the 
 old and respectable Cossacks ; almost all oi 
 whom, as we passed, pressed us to walk into 
 their houses and to regale ourselves. The water 
 flows beneath many of the buildings ; and all of 
 them are upon piles, in the midst of the flood 1 . 
 The prodigious quantity of timber consumed in 
 
 * (0 “ Tcherhash stands on some marshy islands in the river. The 
 houses are all raised on wooden pillars, and connected hy foot bridges. 
 The foot-paths run like galleries before the houses. When we saw it, 
 every part was flooded, except the principal street, the great church, 
 and the market-place. The antic wooden cabins, mixed with the 
 domes of churches, tops of trees, and Calmuck tents, had an interest- 
 ing effect, just rising from the water. The sudah still continued to 
 poison the air; but the houses, notwithstanding the people are all 
 fishers, are neat. The Cossacks are much cleaner than the Hussions. 
 There is a spacious and antient cathedral, nearly on the same plan as 
 the Casan Church in Mosco. Detached from the rest of the building is a 
 large tower, which, at a distance, gives a faint recollection of St. Mary’s 
 spire at Oxford. There are many other churches, full of very costly 
 ornaments. 1 never saw so many pearls at once, as on the head of a 
 Madonna in the cathedral. These treasures arethespoils ofTurkey and 
 Poland.” Heber’s MS. Journal. 
 
TCHERKASK. 
 
 the town, for houses, causeways, and bridges, 
 is brought front the Volga , the Don being inade- 
 quate to such a supply. Formerly they had 
 walls to their watery settlement, but the inun- 
 dations ol the river have swept these entirely 
 away. The principal part of the inhabitants are 
 exceedingly desirous to remove their capital to 
 Axay; this would increase its commerce, and 
 thereby add to its importance: the rest, who, 
 from attachment to the place of their nativity, 
 are still anxious to preserve the original situa- 
 tion, propose to surround it again with walls, 
 and to form channels, after a plan which would 
 make its resemblance to Venice greater than it 
 is at present ; but the level of the water not 
 remaining constant, as in the Adriatic, and some- 
 times varying full fifteen feet, prevents the 
 adoption of this plan. They neglect, however, 
 no opportunity to improve the town, forming it 
 as much as possible into streets when fires have 
 taken place and destroyed the old buildings, 
 and insulating the houses where they were too 
 closely situate. If any attempt should be 
 made to remove the town, little difficulty would 
 occur in transplanting the houses almost entire. 
 They are chiefly of wood, and, being placed 
 upon rafts, might be floated to the place of 
 their destination 5 . 
 
 (2) The capital has been since removed ; and now occupies a situa- 
 tion upon the European side of the Don, higher up the river. 
 
390 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 ' ' 
 
 Houses 
 moved en- 
 tire. 
 
 They speak of moving a house in this part of 
 the world as a very trifling undertaking. When 
 Sir Charles Gascoigne went from Petersburg, to 
 preside over the foundry at Lugan, he paid a 
 visit to a gentleman about twenty-seven miles 
 distant from the establishment. Finding him 
 excellently lodged, in a well-furnished, hand- 
 some, and very convenient house, “ I wish,” 
 said he, “ I could have such a building erected 
 for me at Lugan." His host replied, “ If you 
 admire my house, it is at your service, exactly 
 as you see it ; and I engage to place it for you 
 at Lugan in the course of the week.” A bargain 
 was concluded between them; the house was 
 moved; and Sir Charles, who informed us of 
 the fact, resided in it when we were in that 
 country. 
 
 The inhabitants of Tcherkash complain much 
 of want of room. Not a single house has a 
 court-yard ; the inhabitants are all huddled to- 
 gether, as if they had dropped from the clouds 
 during a shower into the river, and only waited 
 the retiring of the waters to make their escape. 
 They are much troubled with mosquitoes, which 
 abound in all the neighbourhood of the Don'. 
 
 (1) Edward Brown, who published, in the seventeenth century, 
 “ A Discourse upon the Cossacks," mentions the swarms of flies and 
 locusts infesting their country ; which is the only faithful account of 
 their history contained in his work. Seep. 22. Bond. 1672. 
 
TCHERKASK. 
 
 391 
 
 When stung by these insects, they observe great ap. 
 
 caution in not scratching the wound ; but are , > 
 
 careful to bathe it, as soon as possible, with 
 alcohol. We found Goulard's lotion to be the best 
 remedy ; and, wanting that, salt mixed with an 
 equal portion of vinegar. There is not a single 
 spot in the whole town free from the annual 
 inundation. We found one dry place, near the 
 principal church; but this was traversed by 
 wooden causeways, proving that the usual pre- 
 caution had been also there required, although 
 the spot were not actually then covered by 
 water. The street where most of the shops 
 are situate is floored with planks ; and must 
 necessarily be very unwholesome, as all the 
 dirt, falling through, remains when the waters 
 retire. They are often troubled with fevers- leases of 
 
 . , , . , „ ’ the People. 
 
 although, when we inquired for a list of their 
 diseases, they said they seldom had any. The 
 greatest ravage is made by the small-pox. 
 Inoculation for that disorder had not yet been 
 introduced. The complaint they seem to dread 
 more than any other is called the disorder op 
 hairs. Gmelin mentions this malady 9 . Hair 
 is said to be generated in wounds of the bodies 
 of those whom it afflicts. We expressed our 
 
 (2) This is not the Plica Polonica, or Goschcst, mentioned by Brown 
 (p. 24. Land. 1672). Gmelin says it is known in Russia and the 
 Ukraine, under the name Volosez; and he attended a case of abscess in 
 Paulovsk which afforded him proof of the existence of such a disorder. 
 
 See Journal des Savans Uoyageurs, p. 1 46, 
 
392 
 
 DON COSSACKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 ' y ' 
 
 Greek Im- 
 postor. 
 
 incredulity to the wife of Lieutenant-colonel 
 Papof ; but she persisted in asserting that she 
 had taken them from her own finger, in the 
 presence of many witnesses. To cure this 
 malady, they apply the leaves of a plant some- 
 what like plantain : this they say extracts the 
 hairs. We saw those leaves dried, and sus- 
 pended, as a remedy for this complaint; but, 
 in their desiccated state, we could not exactly 
 determine what they were. Biliary obstruction 
 is a common disorder among the Cossacks. As 
 a cure for the jaundice, they drink an infusion 
 of the yellow flowers of a Gnaphalium, found 
 in all the steppes. Situate as they arc, either 
 in mud yielding unwholesome exhalation, or in 
 water full of frogs, filth, and substances putre- 
 fying as the flood retires, nothing could preserve 
 them from pestilence, were it not for their great 
 attention to cleanliness. The water of the Don 
 is unwholesome, and it particularly disagrees 
 with strangers ; causing flatulency, with violent 
 pain of the bowels, and dysentery. Many of 
 the Russian rivers have the same quality ; espe- 
 cially the Neva at Petersburg . 
 
 A Greek brought to us some coins of the 
 Emperor Constantine, procured in Turkey. He 
 kept them, he said, for the cure of diseases of 
 all kinds; and, in proof of their miraculous 
 power, swore, by all his Saints, that if any one 
 
TCHERKASK. 
 
 .393 
 
 of them were placed in a sieve, not a drop of 
 water would pass through it. As we laughed ‘ — -v- — 
 at his folly, he was very desirous to make the 
 experiment; but we thought it too ridiculous 
 to merit so much attention. He seemed to 
 be the very Prince of impostors, and probably 
 sold his trash at high prices. He shewed to us 
 a piece of the true Cross : this he said he had 
 brought from Jerusalem ; and, having worn it 
 upon his breast, had thereby saved his life in 
 battle, as a bullet striking the pretended relic 
 had fallen harmless to the ground. 
 
 Having now satisfied our curiosity in the j n ^ m,rc 
 survey of this extraordinary place, we took Teh«r- 
 leave of its inhabitants, and again embarked, 
 accompanied by the officer who had so politely 
 attended us, and whose hospitality we had 
 often experienced, during the visit we had paid 
 to the Cossack capital. We left Tcherhask on 
 Monday the twenty-third of June, in the after- 
 noon, and sailed down the Don, to Axa\j. About 
 four miles' from Tcherhask is an island called 
 Nunnery Isle, or The Island of the Convent , 
 whence, as they relate, the Turks, in former 
 times, derived women for the seraglio of the 
 Grand Signior. 
 
 i 
 
 (1) Seven versts. 
 
CHAP. XIY. 
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, TO AZOF AND 
 TAGANROG. 
 
 Visit to the General-in-chief of the Cossack Army — 
 Embarkation for the Sea of Azof— General View of 
 the South of Russia — De Rubruouis — Tahlars — Ar- 
 menian Colony of Nakhtshivan — Fortress of St. Demetry 
 Rastof — Division of the Don — Tumuli — Fortress and 
 Village of Azof— City of Tanais — its probable Situa- 
 tion — Condition of the Gamson of Azof — Opinion 
 entertained of the Cossacks — Departure from Azof 
 — IVLtcoti s — Remarkable Plicenomenon — Arrival at 
 Taganrog. 
 
 chap. The morning after our return to Axay, we 
 , — > received a message from General Vassily Petro- 
 vich Orlof, Commander-in-chief of the Cossack 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 395 
 
 army, stating, that he expected us to dine with r ^ r p - 
 
 him at his country-seat upon the Don. We set <■ — -% > 
 
 out, accompanied by our friend Colonel Papof, General- 11 ' 
 and by a Greek officer in the Cossack service, *e < co«aci 
 whose name was Mamonof. The General had army ‘ 
 sent his carriage, with six fine Cossack horses, 
 and several Cossacks, mounted, with lances, to 
 escort us. We passed along the steppes ; and 
 occasionally through vineyards, planted with 
 cucumbers, cabbages, Indian wheat, apple, pear, 
 peach, plum trees, and melons, for about ten 
 miles, till we arrived at his house, standing 
 upon the European side of the river, opposite 
 to the town of Tcherkask, and distant from it 
 about five miles. Here we found some elegant 
 and accomplished women amusing themselves 
 with a piano-forte; and afterwards we all sat 
 down to as magnificent a dinner as any English 
 gentleman could have afforded ; the whole being 
 served upon plate. The company consisted of 
 about twenty persons. The General presented 
 us with mead thirty years old, tasting like 
 Madeira wine. He wished very much for English 
 beer, having often drunk it in Poland. A number 
 of very expensive wines were brought round, 
 many of them foreign; but the best wine of 
 the Don seemed superior to any other. As we 
 sat banquetting in this sumptuous manner, we 
 called to mind the erroneous notions we had once 
 
DON COSSACKS. 
 
 entertained of the inhabitants of this country ; 
 notions still propagated by the Russians con- 
 cerning the Cossack people. Perhaps few in 
 England, casting their eyes upon a map of this 
 remote corner of Europe, have pictured in their 
 imagination a wealthy and enlightened society, 
 enjoying not only the refinements, but even the 
 luxuries, of the most civilized nations. Their 
 conversation had that polished and agreeable 
 cast which characterizes well-educated military 
 men. Some peculiarities, common to our an- 
 cestors, and still retained in the ceremonial 
 feasts of antient corporate bodies, might be 
 observed. Among these, the practice of drink- 
 ing toasts, and of rising to pledge the security 
 of the cupbearer, may be adduced as remarkable 
 instances. Another very antient custom, still 
 more prevalent, is that of bowing to and con- 
 gratulating any person who happens to sneeze. 
 The Cossacks of the Don always do this. When 
 we took leave of the General, he said, if we 
 preferred returning by water, for the sake of 
 variety, we might use his barge, already pre- 
 pared, and waiting to convey us. Being con- 
 ducted to it, we found it manned by ten rowers, 
 and decorated in a most costly manner. It was 
 covered with fine scarlet cloth; and Persian 
 carpets were spread beneath a canopy of silk. 
 The current being in our favour, we embarked, 
 
VOYAGE DOWN THE DON. 
 
 39 / 
 
 and were speedily reconducted to our quarters 
 in Axay. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 The next morning we bade farewell to the 
 Don Cossacks; and, having placed our carriage 
 on board a barge, sailed delightfully down- the 
 river (often looking back at the fine view of the 
 
 o 
 
 town of Axay and Tclierkash), to Nakhtshivan, an 
 Armenian colony, established about twenty years 
 before our arrival : this had attained a very flou- 
 rishing state, even in that short period 1 . Its 
 
 Embarka- 
 tion for the 
 Sea of Azof. 
 
 Armenian 
 Colony of 
 NaltlUshi- 
 van. 
 
 (l) “A verst (by land) from the fort of Rostof, is a large Armenian 
 town, called Nakitchivan, after the antient town of that name. We 
 spent the evening in looking over it. They affirmed that it contains 
 1500 families. It has four churches, and two very large bazars, which 
 are very much crowded, and have great appearance of industry. We 
 had a letter to one of the principal inhabitants, who had the rank of 
 Colonel, and whose son was one of Mr. Andre's pupils (of Rostof), 
 and our interpreter. His name was Abraamof. I found that Armenians 
 usually expressed their names in this manner, from the Christian names 
 of their parents, yet with the termination in of, which is a mark of 
 gentility. This man had two sons in the Russian navy ; and possessed, 
 the reputation of great wealth. He knew Lazarof, who sold Orlof 
 the great diamond ; and described iu strong terms the misery and 
 anxiety the Armenian had felt while it remained in his possession. 
 His house was well furnished, and had a billiard-table, and many other 
 European luxuries : all however sat cross-legged, except the master, 
 whose dress also was something after the European mode. He had 
 several curious sabres and poignards richly ornamented, which he exhi- 
 bited with much pride. He said, himself and the greater part of his 
 fellow townsmen had emigrated from the Crimea during the distur- 
 bances there ; that they had this situation given them, and a charter, 
 by which they had the .same privileges as their countrymen at Astrachan. 
 The principal trade of the town is in leather. The women are almost 
 
 all 
 
398 
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 chap- inhabitants were derived from the Crimea. They 
 — v — > had about four hundred shops : these were all 
 placed in one great covered building, after the 
 manner observed in Moscow. The towns near 
 the mouths of the Don present the traveller 
 with a novel and varied picture of society. He 
 encounters half-a-dozen different nations and 
 languages in the same number of minutes ; and 
 each nation in its peculiar dress. As we ap- 
 proached the Armenian settlement, we beheld 
 
 all veiled, but those we caught a glimpse of were extremely beautiful. 
 Their veils were very carelessly disposed, and they betrayed no timidity. 
 The men arc also handsome ; but they have a Jewish expression in 
 their coutenauec. The Russians declare they have all a natural un- 
 pleasant odour, like that we attribute to the Jews. They dislike them 
 greatly; and have a proverb, ‘Two Jews equal one Armenian ; two 
 Armenians one Greek; two Greeks, one Devil.' The Armenians, it is 
 well known, are a very favoured sect by the Russian Government; and 
 many of the noblest families have a mixture of their blood. Of these 
 are Dolgorueky and Bagration, Joan the First gave the title of Knees 
 to great numbers of Armenians, and permitted to all a free trade and 
 settlement, with full liberty of worship, and even of making their 
 processions openly. They have a magnificent church in Petersburg, 
 and many in Astrachan and Casan. Their enterprize and activity are 
 well known. Mr. Anderson of Petersburg told me he knew one who 
 had been twice to Bassora, and once to Sarmacand and Tibet. 1 asked 
 Abraamof if such journeys were common ; and if they could take an 
 European with them, as their servant, or in any other disguise. He 
 answered both these questions in the affirmative. He himself ha'd 
 been in Georgia, and many parts of Turkey, hut never farther. We 
 observed several Mahometans, at least persons in green turbans, which 
 no Armenian would wear.” Heber’s MS. Journal. 
 
 As the green turban is a mark of high distinction in Turkey , and the 
 Armenians of Nakhtshivan arc under no fear of offending Mohammedans, 
 perhaps they are worn merely in consequence of the freedom they 
 here enjoy. 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 399 
 
 Tahtars, Turks, Greeks, Cossacks, Russians, Italians, chap. 
 Calmucks, and Armenians ; these, together with ^ ■ 
 
 our English party, formed a representation of 
 the costume of nine different nations within the 
 compass of a quarter of an English mile. The 
 Tahtars were fishing in the river, or driving 
 cattle towards the town; the Turks were smoking 
 in their coffee-houses; the Greeks, a bustling 
 race, were walking about, telling lies, and barter- 
 ing merchandize ; the Cossacks were scampering 
 in all directions on horseback ; the Russians, as 
 police-officers, were scratching their heads ; the 
 Italians appeared as Venetian and Neapolitan 
 sailors ; the Calmucks jabbering with each other; 
 the Armenians, both men and women, airing in 
 droskies ; and the English staring at them all. 
 
 Towards the Don, and especially towards its 
 embouchure, Tahtars are found in great num- 
 bers; and this race of men appears in journeying 
 hence, westward, the whole way towards the 
 Dnieper, in all the towns by the Sea of Azof , 
 and in the Crimea, and throughout the dreary 
 plains lying to the north of that Peninsula. 
 
 All the South of Russia, from the Dnieper to General 
 the Volga, and even to the territories of the somh°of he 
 Kirgissian and Thibet Tahtars, with all the North Russia - 
 °f the Crimea, is one flat uncultivated desolate 
 waste, forming, as it. were, a series of those 
 

 I 
 
 400 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 * 
 
 chap, deserts bearing the name of Steppes. The 
 xiv. ° 
 
 ^ v ; very earliest adventurers trom the civilized 
 
 parts of Europe to these remote and barbarous 
 regions, found the country exactly as it now 
 appears. A faithful description of its features 
 occurs in the narrative of TV. de Rubruquis, who 
 was employed as a missionary about the middle 
 of the thirteenth century'. “ We journeyed,’’ 
 says he, “ towards the East, with no other 
 objects in view than earth and sky, and occa- 
 sionally the sea upon our right (which is called 
 the Sea of Tanais), and moreover the sepulchres 
 of the Comani ; these seemed about two leagues 
 distant, constructed according to the mode of 
 burial which characterized their ancestors.” 
 
 What the land of the Comani was, is clearly 
 ascertained by the Voyage of the Ambassador 
 from Pope Innocent the Fourth to Tahtary, in the 
 year 1240 , as taken out of the thirty-second 
 book of the Speculum Historiale of Vincentius 
 Behiacensis s . “We journeyed through the 
 
 (1) “ Ibamus ergo versus orientem, nihil videntcs nisi ecelum et 
 terrain, et aliquando mare ad dextram, quod dicitur Mare Tanais, et 
 etiam scpulturas Comanorum, qua 1 2 apparebaut nobis a duabus leucis, 
 secundum quod solebant parentela; eorum sepeliri simul.” Jlineru- 
 nuin iy. de Rubruquis, auno 1253. See Hakluyt, vol. I. p. 80. 
 
 (2) “ Ibamus autcm per terrain Comanorum, qua tota est plana, 
 et Gumina quatuor habct magna. Primum appcllatur Neper (Borys- 
 Uioncs) ; secundum appellatur l)mi (Taua'is) ; tertium dicitur Volga 
 (Kha) ; quartum nomiuatur Jace (Rbymuus).” Ib. p. 47. 
 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 401 
 
 country of the Comani: this is all flat, and has ch ai\ 
 four great rivers. The first is called Neper '- y 
 (Borysthenes); the second is called Don (Tanais); 
 the third is named Volga (Rha); the fourth is 
 denominated Jaec (Rhymnus).” Thus it appears 
 that the Comani, the ancestors of the Cossacks, 
 had established themselves as far to the west- 
 ward as the Dnieper, before the middle of the 
 thirteenth century; and considerable light is 
 thrown upon a very obscure part of antient geo- 
 graphy by the documents thus afforded. TV. de n*b ru - 
 Rubruquis himself, in another passage of his 
 Itinerary, extends their limits as far westward as 
 the Danube ; and says, that the whole country, 
 from this river to the Tanais, was inhabited by 
 them. The western part was called Casaria, 
 the country of the Cazars, Cassars, or Cossacks, 
 as they are now called. Nothing can be more 
 faithful than the account he has left of these vast 
 solitudes, where there is neither wood, nor 
 mountain, nor stone 2 3 . 
 
 (2) “ Tendebamus reetfi in orientem ex quo exivimus praedictam 
 provinciam Casurice, habentes mare ad meridiem, ct vastam solitudi- 
 nein ad aquiluuem : qute durat per viginti dietas alicubi in latitudine : 
 qua nulla est sylva, nutlus mom, nulltis lapis. Herba cst optima. 
 In bae solebant pascere Comani, qui dieuntur Capchat. A Teutonieis 
 ver b dieuntur Valani, et provincia Valama. Ab Isidoro vero dicitur a 
 flumine Tanai usque ad paludes Meotidis et Danubium Alania. Et 
 durat ista terra in longitudine a Danubio usque Tanaim — qu.e tota 
 inhabitabatur a Coma ms.” Hakluyt, t ml. 1. p. 80. 
 
 VOL. X. 2D 
 
402 
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 ' — * — > 
 Tahtars . 
 
 Armenian 
 Merchants 
 of Nakht - 
 shiv 411. 
 
 The Tahtars near to the Sea of Azof are a small 
 race of men, but not so ugly as to answer to the 
 descriptions given of them. They disfigure them- 
 selves very much by pressing their ears forward 
 with the lower rim of their caps, from their 
 tenderest infancy : in consequence of this prac- 
 tice, their ears protrude from the sides of their 
 heads, and front the spectator. Some of those 
 who passed us at Nakhtshivan looked fearfully 
 wild, appearing in the rude and perhaps primeval 
 dress of the first shepherds of the earth. 
 Their bodies were almost naked : over their 
 shoulders were loosely suspended the undressed 
 fleeces of their sheep, fastened with a single loop 
 in front. Upon their heads, and about their loins, 
 they had a covering of the same nature; and 
 upon their feet they wore those sandals of linden- 
 bark of which a representation has been given 
 as a Fignette to the Tenth Chapter of this 
 Volume. A similar costume is sometimes repre- 
 sented upon the Grecian terra-cottas, and it is 
 also exhibited by the sculpture of Antient 
 Greece'. 
 
 Nakhtshivan offers an example of that enter- 
 prising commercial spirit which is characteristic 
 
 ( 1 ) Among the earthen vases described and published at Naples, 
 there is a costume of this kind, upon a male figure, who is delineated 
 checking two furious horses. 
 
403 
 
 TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 of Armenian merchants. They are not naturally 
 a lively race ot men. The Armenians are almost 
 as grave as the Turks, and they have all the 
 boorishness of Dutchmen ; insomuch, that this is 
 a common saying with European merchants in 
 Constantinople; “A sportive Armenian is as awk- 
 ward as a dancing bear.” Yet, instigated by 
 commercial speculations, these men traverse all 
 countries, and overcome surprising obstacles; 
 frequently making journeys to India, and to the 
 most distant regions of the earth. Their com- 
 modities and their manufactures, as far as we 
 were enabled to judge of them, appeared to be 
 Turkish, and of a nature to find a ready sale in 
 Axay and in Tcherkask. They supply all the 
 fairs of the neighbouring provinces ; and these 
 fairs afford the most extraordinary sights in 
 Europe, because they are attended by persons 
 from almost every nation. There is scarcely a 
 nation, civilized or barbarous, which has not its 
 representative at the fairs which are held along 
 the Sea of Azof, and upon the Don ; but parti- 
 cularly at the great fair of Nakhtshivan. The 
 Hamaxobii of Herodotus then make their appear- 
 ance, as in the days of the historian ; travelling- 
 in vehicles, the coverings of which are their tents 
 by night, and tilts for their cars by day' * 2 . Such 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 (2) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 2 D 2 
 
404 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 chap, moveable dwellings may be noticed in all the 
 — t territories of the Tahtars. 
 
 We entered the quarter where the shops are 
 stationed. It is a very lofty covered street, or 
 cloister, surrounding a square, after the manner 
 of the Palais Royal at Paris. Every trade has 
 its peculiar station assigned, as in the bazars of 
 Constantinople ; and, according to the rule ob- 
 served in Oriental bazars, the floor of each shop 
 is made level with the counter; the dealers 
 sitting at their work, as in Turkey, with their, 
 legs crossed beneath their bodies. The shops 
 were all well stored, and a rapid sale was going 
 on. Their owners, in many instances, were really 
 Mohammedans, who manufactured slippers, san- 
 dals, and boots, in coloured leather. Among other 
 tradesmen, we observed tobacconists, pipe- 
 makers, clothiers, linen-drapers, grocers, butch- 
 ers, bakers, blacksmiths, silk-mercers, dealers 
 in Indian shawls, &c. Their bakers make bread 
 of a very superior quality. According to a salu- 
 tary Asiatic custom, it is publickly made, and 
 publickly baked ; so that the whole process of 
 preparing the most important article of food 
 is open to the inspection of every one. 
 The crowd passing before their shops re- 
 sembled a masquerade, where the costly 
 embroidered vestments of rich Armenian mer- 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 40 j 
 
 chants 1 were contrasted with the coarse chap. 
 
 XIV 
 
 hides covering wild Tahtars, the long furred i 
 pelisses of the Turks, the military, but simple, 
 garb of the Cossacks, the uncouth uniform of 
 the Russian police, and the greasy trappings 
 of the Calmuchs. 
 
 We visited a Turkish coffee-house, the most 
 favourite rendezvous of the inhabitants. On 
 the right hand as we entered, and upon a raised 
 floor like the counters used by English tai- 
 lors, were squatted a number of merchants, 
 reclining upon cushions, with long pipes in 
 their hands, smoking, and drinking coffee. As 
 we joined the party, we were presented, ac- 
 cording to the usual custom, with kindled pipes 
 (having tubes made of the wood of the cherry- 
 tree, tipped with amber), a small cup of coffee, 
 and a bit of wood of aloes ; this, being put 
 into the bowl of each pipe, exhaled a refreshing 
 and pleasing fragrance. In a corner of the 
 
 (l) The costume of the Armenian women of Astrakhan is the richest 
 in Russia. It is surprising that they sustain the weight of their dress. 
 The first, or inner robe, is of silk and gold ; the second, of black 
 velvet, heavily laden with gold and pearls. The third, or outer vest, 
 *s almost of massive gold, in ponderous embroidery, with large gold 
 knobs, gold buttons, gold tassels, gold fringe, &c. Ac. The turban 
 18 white, hangs over the left shoulder, and conceals the face, except 
 the nose and eyes. The only hair disclosed is often false ; two thick 
 locks, one on each side, being brought in front before the cars. 
 
400 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 ' y 1 
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 apartment stood a vase, containing blossoms of 
 the large Iris, called, in England, Flower de luce. 
 It served as a kind of sign to the box whereon 
 it was placed, in the lid of which was a small 
 hole to receive the contributions of those who 
 had received refreshments in the house. Some 
 Turks, who were present, seemed really to be 
 breathing fumes of tobacco. They inhaled 
 large quantities of smoke upon their lungs, 
 and, after retaining it there until their features 
 became distended with suppressed respiration, 
 yielded back curling volumes, as from a chim- 
 ney, through their nostrils, their mouth, and 
 their ears 1 2 . 
 
 According to Pallas' the origin of the Arme- 
 nian establishment at Nahhtshivan was the emi- 
 gration of the inhabitants of the Crimea, when 
 Suvorof withdrew with the Russian troops, and 
 peace was concluded with the Tahtars. At 
 that time the most opulent Armenian mechanics 
 and merchants, together with the major part of 
 the Christian inhabitants, upon whom the whole 
 of the productive industry and commerce ol 
 the Peninsula depended, left the Crimea late in 
 
 (1) The Chinese , and other Oriental nations, perforate the drum of 
 their cars for this purpose. It is not however common for Turks to 
 undergo that operation. 
 
 (2) Travels through the Southern Provinces, &c. Vol. I. p. 476, 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 the autumnal season. The Empress ordered 
 proper buildings and accommodations to be 
 prepared for their reception upon the Don ; but 
 the Russian commissaries took especial care to 
 convey into their own pockets the money 
 allowed to complete the work according to the 
 intentions of their sovereign. When the Arme- 
 nian colony arrived, they found a parcel of 
 miserable huts, constructed in the most expe- 
 ditious and most wretched manner. These 
 have since been converted into neat and 
 comfortable dwellings : many of them are of 
 limestone, and they are covered with tiles : in 
 the manufacture of these tiles, as well as of 
 earthenware in general, the inhabitants are very 
 skilful. Other Armenian settlements, belong- 
 ing to the same district of Rastof, are in the 
 neighbourhood, and all of them in a flourishing 
 state. The Armenians are much respected in 
 the country; their industry, their sobriety, 
 and their general moral conduct, render them a 
 most important acquisition to the Russian em- 
 pire. Their whole population, however, in- 
 cluding persons of both sexes, and all the 
 Armenian settlements in the district, does not 
 amount to eight thousand 3 . 
 
 40; 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 ' * 1 
 
 (3) Pallas estimates it at 7000. Ibid. p. 480. 
 
408 
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 chat. Again embarking upon the Don, we pro- 
 . K | V j ceeded from Nakhlshivan to the fortress oi St. 
 s°vZ- { Demetry Rastof, about a mile lower down the 
 try iiaunf. j.jygj.1. It was a place of great importance 
 
 when the Turkish frontier was nearer. The 
 Don is here much broader and deeper : in con- 
 sequence of this, the vessels from IV oronetz, 
 unfit to encounter the sea, are broken up, and 
 their cargoes, the product of Russia, shipped 
 on board lighters and small vessels, and sent 
 to Taganrog, to load the vessels lying in the 
 
 (1) Mr. Ueber performed a journey from Taganrog to Rastof by 
 land. His observations concerning the latter place are therefore pe- 
 culiarly appropriate, and serve to supply the deficiency of our own. 
 “ Here it is that the barks from Voronctz are broken up, and the 
 goods embarked from Taganrog. We saw about sixty lighters lying 
 in the river, many large enough to perform the voyage to Arabat. 
 Some of these, which we pointed out, they told us bad made voyages 
 all the way to Caffa. There is a large brewery, producing very detest- 
 able beer and porter. The distilleries are numerous, and, if we un- 
 derstood right, pay no duties, unless sent inland. The banks of the 
 Don are covered above by vineyards, and below by stinking Sudak, a 
 large white fish, dry ing in the sun. Fish are caught in great abun- 
 dance and variety. The principal kinds are. Beluga, Sturgeon, Ster- 
 let, and Sudak. There are also myriads of Prussian Carp, which, with 
 all the refuse fish, arc heaped up in great dunghills among the black 
 circular tents of the Calmucks. The Cossacks pay no duty on salt, 
 if it be for their own consumption. The fortress is just above the 
 town ; it is extensive, but ill situated. In it is a small garrison, and 
 a school kept by an old Frenchman of the name of Andrth He had 
 about twenty pupils, who were taught French, German, writing, and 
 geography. They were all very little boys. We had a letter to the 
 Master, and found an old man in a sheep-skin, which would have 
 turned the stomach of a Mushick, sitting down to dinner with his 
 flock.” Heber's MS. Journal. 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 409 
 
 roads, off that place. The Governor, both of chap. 
 
 r XIV. 
 
 Azof and of Taganrog, resides at Rastof; al- — 
 though those places have each their superior 
 resident officer, who is called Commandant. 
 
 Rastof is garrisoned by Russian troops. We 
 found it in a deplorable state of neglect. The 
 Cossacks of the Don claim the territory upon 
 which the fort is built, as well as of the land 
 where the Armenian settlements in its vicinity 
 are founded. We could learn no other reason 
 for this, than that these Cossacks have the care 
 of conducting the mail. Indeed, the generality 
 of them seemed to consider their land as limited 
 by a boundary between Axay and Nakhtshivan. 
 
 In an empire, so little settled as that of 
 Russia, whose southern frontier is continually 
 advancing, by encroachments daily made upon 
 the territories of other nations, the limits of 
 any particular province are not likely to con- 
 tinue long the same. Other travellers may pos- 
 sibly arrive, and find the whole race of Don 
 Cossacks moved, and planted upon the sides of 
 Caucasus : and those of the Black Sea, the 
 Tcher nomor ski, so lately carried from the Dnieper 
 to the banks of the Kuban, may then be found 
 repelling the incursions of the Persians and 
 the Afghans, upon the southern shores of the 
 Caspian. 
 
 i 
 
410 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 ' * ‘ 
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 Pursuing our delightful voyage with very 
 favourable weather, we advanced towards Azof; 
 and as we continued sailing, with Europe on 
 our right hand, and Asia on our left 1 , reflections 
 were excited which contrasted the refinement, 
 the science, the commerce, the power, and the 
 influence of the one, with the sloth, the super- 
 ' stition, the effeminacy, the barbarism, and the 
 ignorance of the other. One fact, at least, 
 may be derived from a general survey of Eu- 
 rope ; namely, that there exists in no part of it 
 a savage people, as fixed inhabitants. Every 
 part of Europe is civilized. If the Nagay Tahtar, 
 the wandering Calmuck, or the nomade Lap- 
 lander, be considered as belonging to a savage 
 race, which is nevertheless humane, it should 
 be observed, that these tribes are peculiar to 
 no particular territory, but that they lead, like 
 the more ferocious gipsy, a vagrant life. It is 
 common to hear nations, which are situate 
 remote from our observation, branded with an 
 imputation of barbarism : yet it ought to be 
 confessed, that the peasant of Ireland, the smuggler 
 of England, or the poissarde of France, is alto- 
 gether as unenlightened, more inhuman, and 
 possesses more of savage ferocity, than either 
 
 (I) “ Quique iluas terras Asiam Cadmique sororem 
 Separat, et cursus inter utramque facit.” 
 
■f 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 the Laplander, the Tahlar, or the Calmuch. As 
 for the agricultural Laplander, the mountaineer 
 of Norivay, and the inhabitants of the north of 
 Siueden, there does not exist a better disposed, 
 or a more benevolent people. 
 
 Several villages are scattered along the banks 
 of this river; but they consist chiefly of 
 wretched hovels, constructed of reeds and 
 flags arrowing in the shallows of the Don : 
 having these objects only in view, the traveller 
 is presented with scenery which answers to the 
 description given of the wigwams and the 
 waters of America. Soon after we had passed the 
 fortress of Rastof, we saw, as we looked back 
 towards the East, the whole of the settlements 
 upon the northern side of the river, including 
 those of Rastof, of Nahhtshivan, and of Axay . 
 Here the . Don is divided by the channel bearing 
 the name of The Dead Danaetz ; and the high 
 lands, upon which those towns are stationed, 
 continue to form the northern bank of that 
 branch of the river. We sailed along the main 
 current, which flows, after this separation, 
 through a very flat and marshy country. The 
 only objects interrupting the uniformity of the 
 landscape are those antient sepulchres alluded 
 to in the passage cited from Rubruquis i . We 
 
 411 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Division of 
 the Don. 
 
 Tumuli. 
 
 (2) See p. 400. 
 
VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 endeavoured to delineate a remarkable groupe 
 of them, consisting of five tombs, much larger 
 than any of the others near the river; these 
 have always borne the appellation of The Five 
 Brothers. They are upon the European side. 
 If Ptolemy's position of the Jlexion of the Tanais 
 can be reconciled with the site of that remark- 
 able deviation of the river which is called the 
 “ Dead Danaetz," these tombs might be con- 
 sidered as the actual monuments alluded to by 
 him', under the name of the Altars of Alex- 
 ander. The /3 u[xo\, or Altars of the Greeks, 
 were called Sharia by the Romans, ab altitudine, 
 from their being raised high above the ground*. 
 In low flat countries, where there were nei- 
 ther mountains nor hills, they raised artificial 
 ascents for their altars. But sacrifices were 
 offered upon the sepulchres of the dead, as upon 
 altars; and, consistently with this practice, 
 Alexander paid his vows, and performed rites, 
 upon the tombs of Achilles and of Ajax', when 
 he invaded Asia, and landed upon the Plain of 
 Troy ; anointing with perfumes the 'IrrPka.i 
 placed upon them, according to the custom of 
 the age. The same geographer places the 
 
 (1) 'Terri Si nv ’F.mlTI’O'l’HN mu Tctmi'hs mre.ft.oZ it rs ‘ AX tie, - 
 
 BH. MO I. Ptolem. Geogr. lib. iii. o. 5. 
 
 (2) “ Altaria ab altitudine dicta sunt, quiid Antiqui diis superis in 
 a'dificiis k tcriA exaltatis sacra faciebant.” Sext. Pomp ■ Fest. de 
 Verb, significationc. 
 
 (3) Diodor. Sic. lib. xvii. See also Chandler’s Ilium, p. 70. 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 Altars of Cjesar yet nearer to the position of 
 these tombs. To one or other of them they will 
 probably hereafter be referred. In the mean 
 time, until we have better knowledge of the 
 country, and of its antiquities, we must leave 
 their real history undecided. 
 
 Among the various tribes dwelling near the 
 mouths of the Don and in the neighbourhood 
 of Rastof, the Tahtars are the most numerous. 
 
 Many absurd reports were in circulation concern- 
 ing the danger of venturing among them. At 
 Rastof, in particular, we heard some fearful tales 
 of robbers, and of the banditti of the steppes ; but 
 had every reason to believe that all such stories 
 were without foundation. 
 
 The long-expected view of Azof at last pre- Fortress 
 sented itself before our eyes, making a conspi- of amj:° 
 cuous and considerable appearance, and some- 
 what corresponding with the false ideas we had 
 entertained of its importance. Its imaginary 
 consequence, however, as a fortress, vanished 
 the moment we arrived; for nothing can be 
 more wretched or insignificant. The figure it 
 has made in the wars between Russia and 
 Turkey has given it a place in our maps and 
 gazetteers ; although the meanest hamlet of 
 Kamchatka might dispute with it a title to 
 
 413 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 notice. A handful of troops, aided only by their 
 bayonets, might take possession of it at any 
 time. The garrison consists of a few worn-out 
 Russian invalids. The works, if such they may 
 be called, are abandoned to decay, and they 
 are situate below the village; so that, in the 
 event of an attack, there are several heights 
 which would command them. The village itselt 
 stands upon a high ridge, and upon its lower 
 extremity is situate the fortress. From the 
 heights we had a view of the entrance of the 
 Don into the Sea of Azof , and plainly discerned 
 the town of Taganrog, across the water. The 
 mines of the fortress have been described as 
 very extensive, and considerable excavations 
 might be observed under the whole of the ram- 
 parts ; but no use is now made oi them, and 
 indeed the officers of the garrison were ignorant 
 for what purpose many of them were originally 
 designed. All that remains of the Turkish for- 
 tification is a part of a wall, now a mere ruin. 
 The inhabitants shewed to us an old rampart 
 raised by Peter the Great, upon the opposite 
 side of the river, as it was used by him when 
 he besieged the place. 
 
 It has been generally supposed that the 
 antient city of Tanais existed either upon the site 
 of Azof, or in its immediate vicinity : we were 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 41o 
 
 particular iu our inquiries concerning the site of 
 it, both among the officers of the garrison and 
 the other inhabitants. We also made such 
 research as the time allowed us would permit; 
 but not a trace of any former city could be dis- 
 covered, neither had there ever been observed, 
 as a vestige, any of those remains which infal- 
 libly indicate the cities of the Greeks. Of these, 
 broken pottery, as the most usual, owing to its 
 incorruptible nature, almost always serves to 
 point out the locality of Grecian cities, even 
 when medals and other marks of their topogra- 
 phy have not been found. It is natural to con- 
 clude, that if the Greeks ever built a city upon 
 this branch of the Don, it must have stood near 
 to its banks, and not at any distance from the 
 water. But the site of Azof is the only spot 
 near the river where it has been possible to 
 build. The rest is all a swamp, even the reeds 
 of which are annually inundated. To the east, 
 the south, and the south-east, the interior of the 
 country exhibits a parched and barren desert : 
 the rest is all one vast morass, consisting of 
 deep fens and water. If, then, upon the more 
 elevated soil, which affords a foundation to the 
 fortress and to the present village of Azof, 
 such a city as Tana'is once stood, the immense 
 excavations carried on by the moderns, from 
 time to time, in the formation, and the reparation, 
 
 CIIAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
416 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 chap, and the destruction of the citadel, must have 
 , J . j brought to light some relic ot antiquity ; 
 either medals, or weapons, or vases, or sepul- 
 chres: yet, in no instance, has there ever been 
 observed a single vestige or remnant of any 
 former settlement, except the citadel originally 
 founded by the Turks. Some of the senior offi- 
 cers, who were well informed concerning every 
 thing that had happened here since the time of 
 Peter the Great, and among others the Com- 
 mandant, declared that nothing had ever been 
 found of this description ; and maintained, that 
 in all the country about the place there was no 
 mark of the existence of any former city. 
 About fifteen years ago, some coins were dis- 
 covered upon the shore of the Sea of Azof, fur- 
 ther westward ; but the characters upon these 
 coins were described to us as Indian, or Chinese: 
 probably they were Tahtarian, or Turkish. If 
 Probable there ever did exist such a city as 1 anais, we 
 the city might expect to find the traces of it at the 
 of Tan.us. extrern [ty of that northern embouchure of the 
 Don which was before mentioned, as bearing 
 the very name the Greelcs gave to the city, in 
 the appellation Tdanaets, Danaetz. This channel 
 we had no opportunity of exploring. Perhaps 
 some future traveller will meet with more 
 success in the inquiry; and to further it, we 
 have afforded him a clue, in our Map ot the 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG, 
 
 417 
 
 Mouths of the River. The place to which we 
 would particularly direct his attention is now 
 called Sinuvka; but he will in vain look for 
 Sinovka, or even for this branch of the river, 
 in any of the maps which were before pub- 
 lished. 
 
 The inhabitants of Azof amount to a small condition 
 number, including the garrison. There are not rlon'vi^ 
 more than fifty houses in the whole settlement. /,zuJ - 
 The officers quartered there complained, and 
 with reason, of their solitary and secluded 
 state of life. Exiled from all intercourse with 
 the rest of mankind, because avoided even by 
 the tribes around them, and without a single 
 comfort to render human existence support- 
 able, the joy our arrival diffused may be easily 
 imagined. “ Englishmen said the old Com- 
 mandant, as he approached the shore, to wel- 
 come our arrival, “ are the only travellers who 
 would come to Azof, if it could he avoided." 
 
 Nothing could be more insupportable, however, 
 than the manner of their hospitality. No other 
 amusement was devised, but that of drinking, 
 shouting, and dancing. Some symptoms, at the 
 same time, of using compulsory measures to 
 prevent our departure, were manifested. Half 
 a century might pass, during all which period 
 
 VOL. I. “2 E 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
418 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 chap, the inhabitants of Azof would see no faces 
 
 xiv. , „ , . 
 
 j except those of their own garrison ; conse- 
 quently, the most trivial novelties were regarded 
 with transport, and the coming of strangers 
 was considered as an event of more than usual 
 importance. We found them lost in indolence 
 and wretchedness, badly supplied with provi- 
 sions, and destitute even of wholesome water. 
 The suspicious inquiries, and the insidious arti- 
 fices, commonly practised by Russians in their 
 reception of foreigners, were for once laid 
 aside: but in their place were substituted bois- 
 terous greetings, and the most troublesome 
 importunities. Our appearance at this time 
 was certainly rather calculated to excite cu- 
 riosity. We had not less than four large bolacs 1 
 living constantly in the carriage, whose ravages 
 were visibly displayed in all parts of its lining ; 
 for there is hardly any thing these animals 
 will not endeavour to devour. Our interpre- 
 ter, a Greek, the sallowest of his race, wore 
 a strange dress, in which the various habits of 
 Russians, of Cossacks, of Tahtars, and of the 
 people of his own country, were singularly 
 blended. Our wardrobe, scarcely less remark- 
 able, betrayed evident marks of the casualties 
 
 (l) See pp. 325 — 328. 
 
419 
 
 TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 and the disasters incident to a longf journey, chap. 
 We had, besides, several large books filled with 
 plants for our herbary, some minerals, a few 
 stuffed birds and quadrupeds, boxes of insects, 
 thermometers, pots, kettles, half a cheese, and 
 a vinegar cask. The soldiers of the garrison 
 seemed to be more astonished and amused by 
 the appearance of the bobacs than by any thing 
 else ; and the bobacs, participating equal sur- 
 prise upon seeing them, sounded their loud and 
 shrill whistle whenever they approached. A 
 concert and supper were prepared for us in the 
 evening; and a veteran officer, General Pekin , 
 seventy-three years of age, was brought in a 
 chair to see the two Englishmen. He had been 
 celebrated both in the Prussian and the Russian 
 service, and now lived upon a pension at Azof. 
 
 This venerable soldier expressed himself so 
 much rejoiced at seeing us, that, in spite of his 
 years and infirmities, making one of the officers 
 stand up with him, he insisted upon exhibiting 
 the Russian national dance. 
 
 The contrast, before made 8 , between a Cossack 
 and a Russian appeared very striking in this 
 voyage down the river from Axay to Azof. In 
 
 (2) Sec p. 385. 
 
 2 E 2 
 
J20 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 chap, the course of a single day, we had break- 
 
 XIV. 
 
 ^ fasted with one people, and were compelled to 
 sup with another ; — compelled, because the con- 
 sequences of refusing such invitations are very 
 serious in this country, especially if these in- 
 vitations are made by petty officers of the 
 Russian army; who have always the power, 
 and generally had the inclination, when we 
 visited Russia, to embarrass and impede an 
 English traveller. The distance between the 
 two places does not exceed forty-five versts. 
 We had left the Cossacks with sorrow, and full 
 of gratitude for the politeness and the liberal 
 hospitality we had experienced : the very sight 
 of a Russian, under such impressions, it may 
 be conceived, was doubly revolting to us. Let 
 Opinion the Reader then imagine what our feelings were, 
 of the Coj- when, as we landed at Azof, an impertinent 
 sack5 ' young Russian officer, belonging to the garrison, 
 demanded the motive which could have induced 
 us to venture among a people so ferocious as 
 the Cossacks. Instead of gratifying his curiosity, 
 we ventured to question him; and asked him, 
 whether he had ever visited them. “ Never!” 
 said he : “ we consider them as so many wild 
 beasts. It is true, they are rich; but God 
 alone knows what they do with their money, or 
 how they obtain it : we never see any of it. 
 We could only refrain from replying with some 
 
TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 421 
 
 indignation: “ You shall hear how they obtain c ^ r p - 
 it ; and what they do with it ; and why you . > 
 never see any of it. They are industrious mer- 
 chants, and derive wealth by commerce: they 
 are good husbands and fathers, providing for 
 their families, and educating their children : 
 and you never see all this, because, as you con- 
 fess, you never visit them.” 
 
 We succeeded, with great difficulty, in ob- Departure 
 taining leave to quit the place the following day. 
 
 General Pekin lent us his assistance ; and it was 
 owing chiefly to his interest that twenty soldiers 
 were ordered to attend by day-break, and to 
 assist in towing the boat against the current ; 
 as it was necessary to re-ascend a part of the 
 river, and to proceed towards the sea by one of 
 the mouths through which the Don disembogues 
 itself, nearer to Taganrog than that branch of it 
 upon which Azof is situate. We took leave of 
 our boisterous entertainers soon after midnight, 
 most of whom were by this time more than 
 “ half seas over and, in order to secure our 
 retreat, we determined to pass the night in the 
 boat. It was still dark, and dreadfully tem- 
 pestuous. A thunder-storm came on, and the 
 wind blew with the fury of a hurricane. As 
 we passed the sentinels, to go towards the 
 river, vivid flashes of lightning disclosed to us, 
 
VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 at intervals, our carriage tossed about in the 
 boat, as if in a gale at sea. We succeeded, 
 however, in getting on board ; and presently 
 such a deluge of rain ensued, that we were glad 
 to seek shelter with the bobacs, whose natural 
 somnolency was not proof against such violent 
 concussions, and who were thrusting their noses 
 between the blinds of the windows. We never 
 experienced such a tempest. During all the 
 rest of the night, the water seemed to descend 
 as from a cataract, beating through the very 
 roof of the carriage, and entering by every 
 crevice. As the day dawned, the rain ceased 
 to fall : but the wind continued as before. Our 
 servant arrived from the fortress, having suc- 
 ceeded in mustering the soldiers. We encou- 
 raged them by liberal offers; and soon after- 
 wards we had the satisfaction to find, that, 
 although our boat’s motion was hardly progres- 
 sive against the united force of wind and tide, 
 we were actually leaving Azof. 
 
 After a long and very obstinate struggle, 
 during which our boatmen were nearly ex- 
 hausted, we at last reached that branch of the 
 river along which we were to steer with the 
 tide towards the sea. It is called the Kalancha. 
 Here we rewarded and dismissed our assistants 
 from the garrison, hoisted our canvas, and. 
 
423 
 
 TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 falling very rapidly down the current, sailed eir\i\ 
 
 into the Palus Majotis. The mouths of the „ — 
 
 Don are thirteen in number. In other respects, 
 this river, by its shallows and islets, its perio- 
 dical inundations, its rapidity and rolling eddies, 
 perturbed by slime and mud, its vegetable and 
 animal productions, bears, as was before re- 
 marked, a most striking resemblance to the 
 Nile. The inhabitants of all this part of the' Sea of 
 Azof maintain that its waters annually diminish. 
 
 A remarkable phenomenon occurs during vio- Remark- 
 
 r . . . i able Phas- 
 
 lent east winds : the sea retires m so singular a nomeuou. 
 manner, that the people of Taganrog are able to 
 effect a passage upon dry land to the opposite 
 coast, a distance of twenty versts 1 2 : but when 
 the wind changes, and this it sometimes does 
 very suddenly, the waters return with such 
 rapidity to their wonted bed, that many lives 
 are lost*. In this manner, also, small vessels 
 
 (1) Rather less than fourteen miles. 
 
 (2) Similar changes are effected by winds towards the northern parts 
 of the Red Sea ; and the author, being aware of this circumstance, had 
 availed himself of the fact, in the. first edition, to explain the passage 
 of the Israelites in their escape from ligypt. The allusion excited a 
 considerable degree of clamour : some stupid bigots maintained that 
 the reconciliation of this event to natural causes amounted to a denial 
 of the truth of sacred history ; as if the miraculous interposition of the 
 Almighty in behalf of his chosen people, and in the overthrow of their 
 pursuers, were not as awfully manifested in “ dividing the waters," by 
 “ the wind and the storm fulfilling his word," as by any other means of 
 supernatural power. To bold an argument, however, with such bigots, 
 would be to as little purpose as to reason with Turks in matters of 
 
 religion : 
 
VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
 
 are stranded'. We saw the wrecks of two, 
 which had cast anchor in good soundings near 
 the coast, but were unexpectedly swamped 
 upon the sands. The east wind often sets in 
 with great vehemence, and continues for several 
 weeks. They have also frequent gales from the 
 west ; but very rarely a wind due north ; and 
 hardly ever an instance occurs of its blowing 
 from the south. This last circumstance has 
 been attributed to the mountainous ridge of Cau- 
 casus, intercepting the winds from that quarter. 
 The sea is so shallow near Taganrog , that ships 
 performing quarantine lie off at a distance of 
 
 religion : the Note was therefore withdrawn ; although the plain text 
 of Exodus fully states {chap, xiv.21.) that “ THE Lord caused the 
 SEA TO CiO BACK BY A STRONG EAST-WIND, AND MADE THE SEA DRY LAND, 
 AND THE WATERS WERE DIVIDED: AND THE CHILDREN OF ISRAEL WENT 
 INTO THE MIDST OF THE SEA UPON THE DRY GROUND.” 
 
 (l) “ The merchandize brought from Voronetz comes down to 
 RastofF in barks which will not bear the sea, but arc broken up there. 
 Their cargoes are again embarked in lighters, which convey them to 
 Taganrog, and to the ships in the road. As the wind changes to the 
 east, and the water grows shallower, they get farther and farther out 
 to sea, and arc often obliged to sail without having completed their 
 cargo. This singular kind of monsoon takes place almost every year, 
 after Midsummer. The Governor said, it seldom failed. Storms are 
 not uncommon ; and the navigation is considered as very unsafe, by 
 reason of the numerous shoals, and the want of shelter." 
 
 Ileber's MS. Journal. 
 
 Mr. Heber’s orthography, in the names of places, has been followed, 
 whenever an extract is given from his Journal ; the author not deeming 
 it lawful to subject so accurate a writer to any rules which he may 
 have laid down for himself, and to which, perhaps, he has not always 
 adhered. 
 
I 
 
 TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 
 
 fifteen versts*; and vessels, drawing from eight 
 to ten feet of water, cannot approach nearer to 
 the town to take in their freightage. 
 
 The elevated situation on which Taganrog IS Arrival at 
 built rendered it visible to us from the moment ' Iaeanr ° e ' 
 we entered the Sea of Azof. The wind, how- 
 ever, began to fail ; and it was night before we 
 reached the shore. Several of the inhabitants 
 came down upon our arrival ; and being after- 
 wards provided with a tolerable set of apart- 
 ments, we resolved to remain here for a few 
 days, that we might prepare our journey through 
 Kuban Tahtary. 
 
 (2) Ten miles. 
 
 425 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XIV. 
 
CHAP. XV. 
 
 EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC SHORES OF THE SEA. 
 
 OF AZOF. 
 
 Taganrog — Commerce, external and internal — Canal of 
 Communication between the Caspian and Black Sea 
 Marriage Ceremony of the Calmucks — Consecrated 
 Ensigns of the Cabnuck Law — Difference between 
 their Sacred and Vulgar Writings— Sarmacand— Va- 
 rious Inhabitants of Taganrog — Antiquities Voyage 
 
 across the Sea of Azof — Chumburskaia— Margari- 
 tovskaia. 
 
 char Taganrog is situate upon the cliff of a very 
 ■ , / lofty promontory, commanding an extensive 
 
 Taganrog. 
 
TAGANROG. 
 
 427 
 
 prospect of the Sea of Azof, and all the Euro- ci iap. 
 pean coast, to the mouths of the Don. Azof ■ — . — 
 itself is visible, in fair weather, from the heights 
 of the citadel. At present, the number of in- 
 habitants does not exceed five thousand. The 
 water, as in the Don, is very unwholesome 
 when the winds carry off" the salt water ; but 
 when a current sets in from the sea, it is more 
 salutary. The foundation of a town, intended 
 for the metropolis of the empire, in a place liable 
 to insuperable disadvantages, was not one of the 
 wisest plans of Peter the Great. The water 
 here is so shallow, that no haven could possi- 
 bly have been constructed, unless by forming 
 canals at an expense beyond all calculation. 
 
 The ships now performing quarantine lie off at 
 the distance of ten miles ; and all vessels, 
 drawing from eight to ten feet water, cannot 
 approach nearer to the town than fifteen versts. 
 Taganrog formerly contained seventy thousand 
 inhabitants ; but, in consequence of a capitula- 
 tion made with the Turks, the original city was 
 entirely rased. Its revival may be referred to 
 the establishment of the Armenian colony at 
 Nahhtshivan. At present, all the best houses are 
 in its suburbs. The citadel contains a misera- 
 ble village, full of ruins ; exhibiting, at the same 
 time, traces of considerable works, now aban- 
 doned. The inhabitants entertain hopes that 
 
428 
 
 TAGANROG. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XV. 
 
 V| " "v— ■ 
 
 Commerce 
 external 
 and inter- 
 nal. 
 
 the Emperor will visit and inspect the place, 
 and that it will then become a town of the first 
 importance in the empire. There is not any 
 situation in the South of Russia more favourable 
 for commerce, were it not for the want of 
 water. Ships from the Black Sea find here, in 
 readiness for embarkation, all the produce of 
 Siberia, with the caviare, and other commodities 
 of Astrachan ; whereas at Cherson and Odessa 
 they have to wait for lading after their arrival. 
 But it is only during three months in the year 
 that commerce can be carried on at Taganrog. 
 In Winter, the sea is frozen, so that the sledges 
 pass upon the ice to Azof. During the short 
 season of their commerce, the rent of a single 
 warehouse upon the shore is estimated at four 
 hundred roubles. As soon as the first ships 
 make their appearance from the Black Sea, the 
 waggons from the interior begin to arrive 1 . The 
 
 (1) “ From November to March the sea is frozen, and navigation 
 seldom safe earlier than April. As soon as the ice is supposed to have 
 passed, a small vessel is sent from Taganrog to Kertch (in the Cri- 
 mea), and vice vend. After this signal, the navigation commences. 
 From April to Midsummer a south-west wind prevails very steadily, 
 which greatly increases the depth of water, and favours the arrival of 
 vessels. About Midsummer the water is generally deepest, and the 
 sea crowded with small vessels. The harbour admits but few. Vessels 
 may then lie tolerably near the shore; at other times, ships of two 
 hundred tons are compelled to lie in the open sea, fifteen versts (ten 
 miles) from the shore. 'In autumn, the Sea of Azof is often no more 
 than fourteen feet at its greatest depth. From Taganrog to Azof is a 
 
 shoal. 
 
TAGANROG. 
 
 429 
 
 vessels undergo a quarantine : during all which 
 time the caravans continue to increase ; and 
 before the end of the quarantine, not less than 
 six thousand waggons occupy all the plains 
 below the town. Of this number, three thousand 
 arrive annually from the Ukraine. 
 
 Taganrog has three fairs in the year: the 
 first upon the first of May ; the second, and the 
 principal fair, upon the tenth of August; and 
 the third upon the eighteenth of November. 
 The quantity of fishes taken in the Sea of Azof 
 is truly astonishing ; they are sent, in a dried 
 
 shoal, or continuation of shoals, with hardly seven feet water, and in 
 some places only five. The number of vessels is generally from six to 
 seven hundred. Of these, about one hundred and fifty, or two hun- 
 dred, are small craft, from Trebizondand Sinope, which bring nardek, 
 a marmalade of grapes, and beckmiss, a sirup made from various 
 fruits by boiling them with honey. Raisins of Uie sun are also brought 
 in great quantities. All these are used in the distilleries. Since the 
 destruction of the vineyards, by the late hard winters, the beckmiss 
 has become more necessary. The spirit thus produced is sold all over 
 the empire as French brandy. The Greeks of the Archipelago bring 
 chiefly wine of a very poor sort, which is also used in the distilleries. 
 Of these Greeks, about one third carry the Russian flag ; hut, as our 
 
 friend 1) said, (a merchant who resided here,) ‘ Mauvais liusse, 
 
 Mauvais Pavilion.’ They are of very bad character, and very poor. 
 Any Greek who would purchase a house and land, became at once a 
 Russian subject, and enjoyed their protection. The real Russian 
 traders arc very few. The European traders were, Italian, Ragusan. 
 Austrian, and Dalmatian; and in 1805, a few French, but under English 
 colours, and with Maltese crews. These bring French wines, and 
 Oennan and English cloth. They carry back fish and iron." 
 
 Hcber’s MS. Journal. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XV. 
 
430 
 
 TAGANROG. 
 
 chap, state, over all the South of Russia'. Fruit is 
 — V— ' brought from Turkey ; such as figs, raisins, and 
 oranges : also Greek wine from the Archipelago, 
 with incense, coffee, silk, shawls, tobacco, and 
 precious stones. Copper comes to them from 
 Trebisond, but of a very inferior quality : it is 
 all sent to Moscow. Among the principal ex- 
 ports, are, caviare, butter, leather, tallow, corn, 
 fur, canvas, rigging, linen, wool, hemp, and 
 iron: of this last article above a million pouds 1 2 
 were exported during the year of our visit to 
 the place. Their canvas is very bad. The 
 copper of Siberia is not brought to Taganrog, 
 as Moscow receives the whole produce of the 
 Siberian mines. Yet the greatest advantage the 
 town enjoys, is, in being the depository of 
 Siberian productions. From Orenburg they re- 
 ceive tallow, fur, and iron : these, with the 
 caviare of Astrachan, have only the short pas- 
 sage by land intervening between Zaritzin on the 
 Volga, and the Don ; a distance of forty English 
 
 (1) “ In winter the greatest fishery is carried on. Holes are made 
 
 in the ice, at small distances; and the net passed under from each of 
 these to the next in succession, by means of a pole, until a large tract 
 is inclosed. Christmas is consequently as busy a time as Midsummer, 
 and a mild winter is ruinous.” Huber's MS. Journal. 
 
 (2) A poud equals thirty-six pounds of English weight ; hut some 
 writers, among others the translator of Pallas s 7 ravels through the 
 South of Russia, &c. state it as equal to forty. 
 
TAGANROG. 
 
 431 
 
 miles 3 , where Peter the Great projected the c ^p. 
 
 canal which it was Paul’s intention to have com- v — 
 
 pleted. A draught of the intended communi- canal of 
 cation between the Euxine and the Caspian Sea, catimTb''.-' 
 by means of this canal, was first published by 
 Perry the English engineer, who was employed lUack 
 by Peter for the undertaking 1 . A part of Perry s 
 Narrative, concerning the conduct of the Russian 
 Government towards himself, is very interest- 
 ing, because it betrays the false glare around 
 the greatest sovereign that Russia ever knew. 
 
 Peter the Great shuffling with his engineer, to 
 evade the payment of a few roubles, is a faith- 
 ful archetype of all the Tsars, Tsarinas, Princes, 
 and Nobles of the empire ; many of whom would 
 not scruple to defraud their own valet de 
 chambre ; having the meanness of their heroine 
 Dashhof, who, after losing thirty roubles to Segur 
 at cards, sent him thirty of the Royal Academy's 
 
 OiJ The canal of communication between the Volga and the Don, 
 according to Perry, (p. 3.) would have been 140 versts, because it would 
 have followed the course of two other small rivers ; the Lavla, which 
 falls into the Don, and the Camishinha, which falls into the Volga; 
 but the section for the canal would not much exceed two miles. 
 
 Upon these small rivers says Perry, “ sluices were to be placed, to 
 niahe them navigable; and a canal of near four Russian miles (equal to 
 2-J miles English) to be cut through the dry land, where the said rivers 
 come nearest together." A work like this would not long be in agita- 
 tion in England. 
 
 (4) See the Vignette to this Chapter ; also Perry’s Stale of Russia, 
 Loud. 1716. 
 
TAGANROG. 
 
 almanacs, by way of payment*. The Russian 
 people cannot be duly appreciated, excepting 
 by those who have not only actually resided 
 among them, but who have seen them when 
 they are removed from intercourse with civi- 
 lized nations, and when they appear divested 
 of that external varnish which is so forcibly 
 alluded to by the Lord-lieutenant of the county 
 of Vasa, in the Extract annexed to a former 
 page of this volume 1 * 3 4 . Perry hardly expected 
 to meet with credit, when he gave his humble 
 representation of the hardship he sustained, 
 inasmuch as it affected the integrity of so lofty 
 an individual; but further acquaintance with 
 the country has long reconciled his simple nar- 
 rative to all our notions of the people *. An 
 Englishman will probably pause before he con- 
 tracts for employment with any future Potentate 
 
 (1) Sec Memoirs of the Court of Petersburg, by Segur, vol. II.p. 130. 
 It was Segur hirasclf to whom this happened. 
 
 (?) Page 386. 
 
 (3) “ In the mean time, his lordship {Apraxin, the Lord-Chamber- 
 lain,) upon his return to Moscow, informed me that he had orders 
 from the Czar to pay me my arrears, and he gave directions to is 
 deputy to bring in the account of what was due to me; so that 
 thought myself now sure of my money : but the next tune 1 waded upon 
 hardship, in discourse he told me, that his Majesty was so taken up 
 with the affairs of the army in Poland, that it would perhaps be a Ion 
 time before he would come again to Moscow, and have e.sure to go 
 and view the place, and to give his orders, ic.and^nf/yoW^ 
 what 1 would do with myself in the mean time. Perrys Slat f 
 
 Russia , p. 19* bond. 1716. 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 433 
 
 of Russia. The canal has never been accom- c hap. 
 plished, neither is it likely to be so, without v — ' 
 
 the aid of foreign engineers ; and these the 
 Russian Government may find difficulty in pro- 
 curing. 
 
 The Calmucks form large settlements in the 
 neighbourhood of Taganrog. Their camps were 
 numerous at the time of our visit : both Calmuck 
 men and women were seen galloping their 
 horses through the streets of the town, 
 or lounging in the public places. Calmuck. 
 women ride better than the men. A male 
 Calmuck on horseback looks as if he was intoxi- 
 cated, and likely to fall off every instant, 
 although he never loses his seat : but the women 
 sit with more ease, and ride with extraordinary 
 skill. The ceremony of marriage among the Marriage 
 Calmucks is performed on horseback. A girl is o/thTcw- 
 first mounted, who rides off in full speed. Her mucks ‘ 
 lover pursues : if he overtake her, she becomes 
 his wife, and the marriage is consummated 
 upon the spot : after this she returns with him 
 to his tent. But it sometimes happens that the 
 woman does not wish to marry the person by 
 whom she is pursued : in this case she will not 
 suffer him to overtake her. We were assured 
 that no instance occurs of a Calmuck girl being 
 thus caught, unless she have a partiality for her 
 
 2 f 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
434 
 
 CALMUCKS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XV. 
 
 Conse- 
 crated En- 
 signs of the 
 Calmuck 
 Law. 
 
 pursuer. If she dislike him, she rides, to use 
 the language of English sportsmen, “ neck or 
 nothing ,” until she has completely effected her 
 escape, or until the pursuer’s horse becomes 
 exhausted, leaving her at liberty to return, and 
 to be afterwards chased by some more-favoured 
 admirer. 
 
 We visited one of their largest camps, near 
 the town. The earth all around their tents was 
 covered with the mutilated carcases of dead 
 rats, cats, dogs, suslics, and bobacs : the limbs of 
 horses were placed upon upright stakes, drying 
 in the sun. Their dogs are fierce and nume- 
 rous. A dreadful storm had happened during 
 the preceding night: we found the Calmuchs 
 in considerable distress, owing to the havoc the 
 tempest had made among their tents: some of 
 these it had unroofed, and overthrown others. 
 Their High Priest, in a yellow dirty robe, was 
 walking about to maintain order. To each tent 
 was affixed a small flag-staff, with an ensign of 
 scarlet linen, containing, in sacred characters, 
 the written law of the Calmucks. By means of 
 an interpreter, who accompanied us upon this 
 occasion, we were told that such banners were 
 always erected in times of general calamity, as 
 preventions of theft, and of intrusion upon each 
 other’s property. Many of the banners which 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 435 
 
 we examined were torn; and others were so °xv P ' 
 
 much effaced by use, that we coidd only discern * * — 
 
 some of the written characters; yet all of them 
 were sufficiently entire to convince us that 
 they were manuscripts, beautifully written upon 
 coloured linen. It was therefore highly desir- 
 able to procure one of these interesting docu- 
 ments ; and we ultimately succeeded : but the 
 acquisition was made with considerable diffi- 
 culty. At first they would not suffer us even 
 to touch them : being told, however, that we 
 were strangers in the land, that we came from 
 very distant western countries, and that we 
 were not subjects of Russia, they entered into 
 consultation with each other : the result of this 
 was an assurance on their part, that if we would 
 pay the Priest for the trouble of transcribing, 
 a fac-simile of one of the banners then used iii 
 the camp should be brought to our lodgings in 
 Taganrog. This manuscript, fairly written upon 
 scarlet linen, was accordingly brought, in a 
 very solemn embassy, and with many curious 
 forms of presentation, by a party of the elder 
 Calmucks, headed by their Priest, the whole 
 party being in their best dresses. We had been 
 absent ; and, upon our return, we found these 
 strange-looking people sitting upon the bare 
 earth, in the court-yard of the house where we 
 lodged. As we drew near, the Priest, in a kind 
 
 1 F 2 
 
436 
 
 CALMUCKS. 
 
 CHAP 
 
 XV. 
 
 ' * 1 
 
 Difference 
 between 
 their Vul- 
 gar and Sa- 
 cred Wri- 
 tings. 
 
 of yellow frock, made a long speech. The sub- 
 tance of this was to inform us, that their law, 
 esteemed sacred, had never been before suf- 
 fered to pass from their hands ; but as they 
 had been assured that we were great princes, 
 who travelled to see the world, and gather 
 instruction for our own people, they had ven- 
 tured to consign the consecrated code to our 
 use. They moreover desired us to observe, 
 that the character, in which it was written, was 
 also sacred : on this account they had also 
 brought a specimen of the vulgar character in 
 daily use among them. Their sacred characters, 
 like those of Europeans, read from left to 
 right, and are of the highest antiquity : these 
 are used in all writings concerning the Calmuck 
 law. The vulgar characters, such as they use 
 in their correspondence and in the ordinary 
 concerns of life, are read from the top to the 
 bottom, and they are placed in columns. We 
 have used every endeavour, but in vain, since 
 our return to England, to get this curious 
 manuscript translated : neither has it been yet 
 satisfactorily decided in what language it is 
 written 1 . A gentleman of Taganrog, Mr. Kova- 
 lenshy, from whom we experienced many other 
 
 (l) The Author has hcen informed, since the publication of the first 
 Edition, that it is Sancrit. The original is now deposited in the 
 Bodleian Library at Oxford. 
 
CALMUCKS. 
 
 437 
 
 acts of kindness, was our interpreter upon this p . 
 occasion. He spoke the Calmuck language with * — 
 
 great fluency, and said it was by no means diffi- 
 cult to acquire. It is frequently used in Astra- 
 chan, and throughout all the territorryof Bochara, 
 whose inhabitants are principally Calmuchs. We 
 had an opportunity of seeing some who had 
 traversed those remote and almost impene- 
 trable regions. When we questioned them with 
 regard to Sarmacand, its once celebrated sarma- 
 capital, they described it as possessing the 
 remains of former magnificence. Perhaps it also 
 contains many curious manuscripts; as the 
 Calmuchs are so well versed in the art of writing, 
 and hold certain of their manuscripts even 
 in religious veneration. Like all other Oriental 
 nations, they preserve many traditions re- 
 specting Alexander. These remarks, in addition 
 to former observations, contain all the informa- 
 tion we are able to afford concerning this re- 
 markable people, the Hippopiiagi of Pliny and 
 of the more antient historians. Their number 
 in the Russian empire has diminished since the 
 establishment of provincial governments and 
 the division of lands, owing to their being more 
 confined to limited situations*. Frequent at- 
 tempts have been made, and are daily making, 
 to induce them to form a regular settlement ; 
 
 (2) See Pallas’s Travels in Russia, vul. I. p. 1 1 a. 
 
EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC SHORES 
 
 but, like all wandering tribes, particularly Lap- 
 landers and Gipsies, they are so much accustomed 
 to an uncontrolled and vagrant life, that no- 
 thing but extreme indigence can compel them 
 to cultivate land, and to reside in any fixed 
 habitation. 
 
 The country near Taganrog is a continuation 
 of those steppes which have been so often de- 
 scribed, and which afford pasture to several 
 thousand cattle. It abounds with swarms of 
 the little quadrupeds before mentioned, under 
 the name of suslic. Near to the town are small 
 plantations of trees, and particularly some fine 
 oaks : these the late Commandant planted, and 
 they flourish with other large trees near the 
 shore. We also observed crab-trees, and the 
 plant from which the Spanish Liquorice' is 
 obtained, in full bloom : the root of this was full 
 of juice, and had a very high flavour. The 
 inhabitants of Taganrog avoid planting trees 
 close to their dwellings, on account of the 
 swarms of mosquitoes which would thereby 
 be harboured. 
 
 The diversity of nations observable in the 
 various inhabitants of Taganrog is altogether 
 without example. Every street resembles a 
 
 (l) Glycyrrhiza glabra. 
 
439 
 
 OF THE SEA OF AZOF. 
 
 masquerade. We counted, at one time, the in- 
 dividuals of fifteen different countries assembled 
 together ; and they were not more remarkable 
 in the exhibition of their various costume, than 
 for the harmony and friendship which prevailed 
 among them. No one seemed to regard the 
 other as a stranger. In their associations and 
 intermarriages, each individual preserves his 
 mode of dress, and exercises his rule of worship, 
 without making the smallest sacrifice to eti- 
 quette (by any alteration in his national habits), 
 or giving the slightest offence to the parties with 
 whom he is connected. Even the common dis- 
 putes and petty quarrels, which are so frequent 
 in the markets of large commercial towns, ap- 
 peared to be unknown among the motley tribes 
 which peopled this place ; yet Babel itself could 
 hardly have witnessed a greater variety of lan. 
 guages. The fifteen nations, whose representa- 
 tives we observed simultaneously assembled, 
 may be thus enumerated : 
 
 1. Russians, 9. French, 
 
 2. Greeks, ]0. English, 
 
 3. Armenians, 11. Turks, 
 
 4. NagayTahtars* (Hamaxolii) , 12. Italians, 
 
 5. Calmueks ( Hippophagi ), 13. Malo-Russians, 
 
 6. Cossacks, 14. Prussians, 
 
 7. Germans, 15. Hungarians. 
 
 8. Poles, 
 
 (2) “ The Nagay Tartars begin to the west of Marinopol : they 
 cultivate a good deal of corn, yet they dislike bread as an article of 
 
 food. 
 
 ciiap. 
 
 xv. 
 
 ' > 
 
 Various 
 Inhabi- 
 tants of 
 Taganrog. 
 
440 
 
 EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC SHORES 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XV. 
 
 ' 1 
 
 Antiqui- 
 
 ties. 
 
 If the commerce of Taganrog should experience 
 any considerable increase, we may reasonably 
 conclude, from the present view of its inhabi- 
 tants, that almost every nation upon earth will 
 have its agent there. 
 
 The shpres of the Sea of Azof, from the com- 
 merce carried on by the Antient Greeks in the 
 Euxine and in the Talus Maoris, bring the tra- 
 veller so near to what may be deemed classic 
 land, that an inquiry after antiquities ought not 
 to be neglected. We did not hear, however, 
 of any thing worthy of notice. Tumuli abound 
 in all the steppes ; and in working the cliffs for 
 the establishment of a magazine or store-house, 
 where one of those tumuli had been raised, in a 
 loose sandy soil, they had found an arched 
 vault, shaped like an oven, constructed of very 
 large square bricks, and paved, in a style of 
 most exquisite workmanship, with the same 
 materials. If any thing were discovered by the 
 workmen who made this excavation, it was 
 concealed ; for they pretended that its contents 
 were unobserved or disregarded. In all proba- 
 
 food. They extend from Marinopol to Pereeop, along the coast of the 
 Sea of Zabasche. Their tents differ from those of the ( almueks, as, 
 being more clumsy and uever taken to pieces, they are carried about 
 on cars. This usage they seem to havjc borrowed from the primitive 
 Scythian population. The Nagay tribes train their camels to the 
 yoke, for which they are ill qualified, and which practice is unknown 
 among all the Mogul tribes in Asia,** Heber’s MS. Journal. 
 
OF THE SEA OF AZOF. 
 
 441 
 
 bility, something of value was removed from the 
 sepulchre; as will appear by the description 
 hereafter given of a similar tomb, opened upon 
 the Asiatic side of the Cimmerian Bosporus. Such 
 vaulted sepulchres seem to render trivial the 
 notions recently entertained and published re- 
 specting the antiquity of arches. The tumuli in 
 which such appearances have been discovered 
 cannot be considered as of later date than the 
 age of Alexander ; and perhaps they are much 
 more antient. 
 
 News arrived before we left Taganrog, that 
 the Cossacks of the Black Sea, or, as they are 
 called, Tchernomorski, inhabiting Kuban Tah- 
 lary, had crossed the river Kuban with a consi- 
 derable reinforcement under General Draskovitz , 
 a Sclavonian officer in the Russian service, and 
 had made war upon the Circassians, in order to 
 be revenged for fhe injuries they had sustained 
 in consequence of the continual incursions of 
 that people in their territory. We had long 
 been desirous to traverse the Deserts of the 
 Kuban, with a view to reach the districts at the 
 foot of Caucasus, and, if possible, to gratify 
 our curiosity by a sight of the Circassians in 
 their own country. A favourable opportunity 
 seemed now to present itself; but even the 
 Bon Cossacks had cautioned us against their 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 xv, 
 
 1 — * — ' 
 
442 
 
 EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC SHORES 
 
 chap, brethren of the Kuban, whom they described as 
 xv. 
 
 i 1 ¥ _ j a lawless set of banditti; and our friends in 
 Taganrog considered the undertaking to be 
 hazardous in the extreme. Yet the experience 
 which had so often taught us that rumoured 
 perils vanish when they are approached, and, 
 above all, the desire of exploring an unknown 
 tract of land, encouraged us to make the un- 
 Voyage dertaking. In the evening of the third of July, 
 sea of Azof, having placed our carriage on board a wretched 
 flat-bottomed vessel, more shaped like a saucer 
 than a boat, we ventured among the waves and 
 the shallows of the Sea of Azof. The first part 
 of our voyage was as pleasant and as tranquil 
 as we could wish it to be; but having sailed 
 through all the Turkish fleet of merchant ships 
 in quarantine, as night came on, a gale com- 
 menced with considerable violence. Our little 
 boat, heavily laden, with an enormous sail 
 which was very ill managed, seemed to be all 
 at once at the mercy of the sea. The direction 
 given to us had been, to steer south-east by 
 east. The only person on board with the 
 slightest knowledge of navigation, was a French 
 refugee at th ■ helm, who pretended that he had 
 been a sailor : this man held the guidance of 
 our vessel. By mere accident we noticed the 
 Polar Star ; and its bearing proved that we were 
 out of our course. Upon this our helmsman 
 
OF THE SEA OF AZOF. 
 
 443 
 
 was asked, if he had not a compass. “ Oh yes, 
 a very good one,” he replied : but, instead of 
 Using it, he had kept it safe locked in the chest 
 upon which he sat. The compass being pro- 
 duced, it appeared that we were going due 
 south ; and to prove the ignorance of mariners 
 in these waters, who are all of them coasters, 
 it may only be mentioned, that our pilot, 
 alarmed by his mistake, continued to turn the 
 box containing the compass, in the hope of 
 making the needle correspond with his wishes. 
 Finding that all was wrong, an instantaneous 
 and fearful confusion ensued. We let go the 
 mainsail, and made an endeavour to lower it ; 
 but the rigging became hampered, and the gale, 
 fast increasing, bore the gunnel down; at the 
 same time, the carriage rolling nearly over the 
 lee side, we shipped as much water as we could 
 barely sustain without sinking. Our first efforts 
 were to secure the carriage from another roll. 
 With all our force exerted, we held the wheels, 
 while our terrified boatmen, half out of their 
 senses, were running over and against each 
 other. Veteran officers in the British navy have 
 often declared, that they encounter more real 
 danger in what is called hating, than in doubling 
 the Cape of Good Hope during the heaviest 
 gales of wind : perhaps not one of them in such 
 a situation would have deemed it possible to 
 
444 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XV. 
 
 Chvmbur- 
 ska in* 
 
 EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC SHORES 
 
 save our lives. We at last, however, succeeded 
 in getting out a couple of anchors ; and having 
 lowered and lashed the carriage, so as to secure 
 it from any violent motion, passed the night in 
 a state of extreme anxiety and terror. As the 
 morning broke, we discerned the Asiatic coast 
 towards the south ; but the gale continuing, we 
 could not raise our anchors before noon ; when, 
 again getting under weigh, we sailed with more 
 moderate weather to the promontory of Clium- 
 burskaia, in Asia, where we landed our carriage. 
 
 The village of Chumhurskuia consists of a few 
 miserable sheds, whose tenants were busied 
 hauling their nets, when we arrived. So prodi- 
 gious was the draught of fishes made at every 
 haul, that the waggons stationed with oxen to 
 carry off 1 the produce of the fishery were inade- 
 quate to its removal. A single haul was some- 
 times sufficient to fill two or three of those wag- 
 gons. The fishes thus taken were conveyed to 
 a place for preparing them, belonging to the 
 owners of the land : here, being first salted, 
 they were exposed for drying in the sun. The 
 variety caught was very great. We saw them 
 draw out Prussian carp, pike, sturgeon, ster- 
 let, a sort of large bream, fish resembling 
 perch, but of very considerable size, and those 
 immense crawfish before mentioned. The shore 
 
OF THE SEA OF AZOF. 
 
 445 
 
 at this place was covered with fine gravel, com- c ”^ p - 
 
 posed of shells and sand. Swarms of toads — 
 
 and small serpents were crawling or running 
 towards the sea ; the water, although unwhole- 
 some, being so little impregnated with salt, 
 that these animals live in it, and the inhabitants 
 use it for drinking as well as for culinary pur- 
 poses. 
 
 Proceeding towards the interior, the view is 
 bounded by steppes, as upon the European side, 
 covered with tall luxuriant plants. “No lan- 
 guage,” says Uumbolt', “ can express the emo- 
 tion which a naturalist feels, when he touches 
 for the first time a land that is not European. 
 
 The attention is fixed on so great a number of 
 objects, that he can scarcely define the impres- 
 sion he receives. At every step he thinks 
 he discovers some new production ; and in 
 this tumultuous state of mind he does not 
 recollect those which are most common in our 
 collections of Natural History. These re- 
 marks are so strictly applicable to our first feel- 
 ings and observations upon landing in Asia, 
 that we cannot avoid this insertion. A variety 
 of new objects seemed immediately to present 
 themselves to our notice ; beetles ot a gigantic 
 
 b) “ Humbolt’s Personal Narrative," Vol, I. p. 88. Land. 1814. 
 
SHORES OF THE SEA OF AZOF. 
 
 size, locusts, various-coloured insects, and 
 large green lizards, some of which were twelve 
 inches in length. Having brought a letter to a 
 Greek gentleman, whose commercial specula- 
 tions, particularly in the fishery, bad induced 
 him to fix his residence in this country, we 
 found him at Margaritovskaia, another small 
 village, four miles from Chumburskaia ; and 
 caused our carriage to be conveyed to his 
 house. He was settled in a small colony of his 
 own countrymen, the neatness of whose cot- 
 tages plainly distinguished them from all the 
 other inhabitants of the country. “ I have 
 retired to this place,” said he, “ to be somewhat 
 removed from the shore ; as the natives along 
 the coast are not to be trusted.” He gave us 
 a supper of rice, milk, and pancakes, according 
 to the custom of his nation ; and we should 
 have felt comfortable in his little dwelling, had 
 it not been for the revolting appearance of toads 
 crawling upon the floor. Reptiles, vermin, bad 
 air, bad water, and bad people, are among the 
 plagues of Oriental territories ; but the small 
 district we traversed in this part of Asia, from 
 the Mouths of the Don to those of the Kuban , 
 may vie in natural horrors with any other we 
 have since seen. The roads at this season of 
 the year (July) were however excellent, and 
 the post was very well supplied. 
 
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 Page 11, line 16. “ A most interesting and remarkable 
 
 phcenomenon."'} — The same appearance has been since ob- 
 served near Cambridge, as numerous witnesses can testify, 
 and precisely under similar meteorological circumstances. 
 The stars were, if possible, even more perfect in their forms 
 than at Petersburg. This happened Jan. 16, at hall-past ten 
 a.m. during the year of the publication of this Volume. An 
 account of it appeared in the Cambridge Chronicle. 
 
 P. 26, 1. 8, 9. “ Brought with them the pictures of the 
 Saints .”3 — Broniovius, in his account of the city of Cher- 
 sonesus, has afforded historical evidence of the fact. “ Ex 
 illo monasterio duas portas eeris Corintkii, . ... et Imagines 
 
 insigniores Kioviam deportavisse.” Martini Broniovii 
 
 Tartaria. L. Bat. 1630. The words Imagines insigniores can 
 only apply to pictures : the Greek Church admitted idols of 
 no other form. 
 
 % 
 
 P. 153. Note (1.) " It was founded, according to Augustine, 
 in 1653, during the reign of Alexis.”]]— The discordant ac- 
 counts which have been published of the age of this bell are 
 owing to a circumstance I neglected to notice : it has been 
 more than once founded. The first cast was made in the 
 reign of Boris Gudenof, and injured by a fire. The Empress 
 Anne, in 1737, caused it to be re-founded, with considerable 
 augmentation of metal, when it was again damaged by fire. 
 This explains the cause of the different statements made, 
 concerning its weight and age, by different authors; and 
 accounts for the figure of the Empress Anne Ivanovna upon 
 its exterior surface. 
 
448 
 
 additional notes. 
 
 P. 199, last line of text: “A distinction of dialect ."'} — 
 According to the classification of the Sclaves by Schlaezer, pre- 
 served in theNotes to Storck’s Tableau de laRussie, tom. I. p. 15, 
 that people admit of a seven-fold division ; they were either 
 Russians, Poles, Bohemians, Fendians, Illyrians, Hungarians, 
 or Turks. Perhaps I may some day be permitted to discuss 
 the interesting subject of the origin of these and other nations, 
 where its introduction will be less extraneous. The three great 
 progenitors, the Tahtar, the Arab, and the Goth', have trans- 
 mitted to their progeny the clearest and most decisive marks 
 of the sources whence they were derived. It is singular, that, 
 from their opposite and devious track, the descendants of 
 those families have all found their way to Europe. The Getce, 
 established by right of long possession, were found concen- 
 tered as a nucleus, when the Sclavi and the Moors, by the 
 most remote and unconnected operations, possessed themselves 
 of the borders. 
 
 P. 339, 1. 22. “ It bore then, as it does now, the name of 
 
 Danaetz.”j] — Observations of a similar nature may have been 
 suggested to the compilers of the account of Muscovy, 
 published in Holland, at the Elzevir Press, in 1G30; as ap- 
 pears by the following passage : “ Est et alter Tana'is Minor, 
 r/ui in Siberiensi Ducatu oriens (unde Dunecz Severski vocatur ) 
 supra Axoph in Tanaim Magnum descend'd.” Descript. Mus- 
 covite, p. 8. L.Bat. ex Off - . Elzev. 1630. 
 
 P. 348, 1. 21 . “ The name Axay is a Tahtar word."} — The 
 initial of this word is properly a diphthong, common in Sweden, 
 
 (1) By Goths , I would not be understood to mean the Barbarians 
 who invaded the Roman Empire from the East; but the more antient 
 descendants of the GeUe, who, crossing the Dardanelles , peopled Thrace , 
 and were the origin, not only of the Teutonic tribes, but of the Greeks : 
 
 “ In paueis remanent Graim vestigia lingua; ; 
 
 Ilacc quoque jam Gelico barbara facta sono.” 
 
 Ovid. Trist . lib, v* El eg. VII. 
 
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 449 
 
 consisting of A, with O placed above it. Mr. Heler therefore 
 writes it with the A simply. (See Note to p. 345.) Its etymo- 
 logy may be found in the Exopolis, or Axopolis, of Ptolemy. 
 
 P. 386, Note (1). “At the time of making this extract," 
 &c.1 — In the Morning Post of the 6th of March 1810, the 
 
 o 
 
 following extract was given of a private letter from Aha, the 
 capital of Finland, respecting the atrocities committed there 
 by the Russians ; bearing date Fel<. 6th, of the same year. 
 
 O 
 
 Extract of a Private Letter from Abo, the Capital of Finland, 
 6th ultimo. 
 
 “ It is with the deepest regret that I communicate to you 
 an account of the perpetration of atrocities, scarcely exceeded 
 by the memorable massacre on St. Bartholomew's day at Paris, 
 by the Russian troops, on the inhabitants of this ill-fated 
 country. In violation of an express stipulation in the treaty 
 for the transfer of Finland to Russia, a certain proportion of 
 the inhabitants were ordered to be drafted, or rather impressed, 
 into the Emperor’s service. The despotic mandate was in 
 general obeyed ; and considerable levies were procured, before 
 their destination was known to be the shores of the Euxine, 
 to fight against the Turks. In the province of Savolax the 
 alarm became general ; and the people, conceiving that they 
 were exempt from service for a limited time, ventured to 
 remonstrate against what they considered as an infraction of 
 the treaty. Count Tolesky, the Governor of Finland, to 
 whom the appeal was made in the most respectful and sub- 
 missive terms, invited the inhabitants, by proclamation, to 
 repair on Sunday last to their respective churches, in order to 
 obtain a redress of grievances. This artifice had the desired 
 effect. The inhabitants, who are widely scattered, and difficult 
 to be got at in detail, were collected in a focus ; and while in 
 VOL. i. 2 G 
 
450 
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 anxious expectatiofi for the proffered act of grace, and uncon- 
 scious of the impending danger, they were suddenly surrounded 
 by bands of soldiers, who, regardless of the sanctity of the 
 place, and deaf to the voice of humanity, dragged the flower 
 of the young men from the altars of their God, from the 
 bosoms of their parents, and the enjoyment of all that was 
 most dear to them in life ; and moreover butchered, without 
 any distinction of age, sex, or condition, those that attempted, 
 by intercession or force, to soften the hearts or avert the 
 deadly weapons of their remorseless assassins. In the parishes 
 where those atrocities were perpetrated, no less than 700 
 unoffending and defenceless individuals have fallen victims to 
 the relentless fury of monsters in a human form.” 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 The following document is inserted to prove 
 the remarkable fact, that during a period when 
 England was not at war with Russia, two English 
 Gentlemen, accredited by their Government, 
 and bearing with them recommendatory letters 
 from the English Secretary of State, were 
 detained prisoners in that country, contrary to 
 the laws observed between civilized nations. 
 
 It is an answer, from the Governor of Moscow, 
 to their petition for a passport to return to 
 England ; after every application to the Emperor, 
 by means of their Minister at Petersburg, had 
 failed of effect; given verbally and literally. 
 
 “ Le Comte Soltijcof est inortifie qui’l ne peut 
 pas contenter Messieurs Cripps et Clarke, en 
 leurs proGurant la permission de sortir hors des 
 frontidires, par la raison que ca ne depend que 
 de Sa Majeste l’Empereur mfime. Ce qui con- 
 cerne l’envoi de la lettre au Ministre d 'Angleterre 
 
 2g2 
 
452 
 
 APPENDIX, N" I. 
 
 a Petersbourg, ces Messieurs la peuvent faire 
 remettre par la poste, et elle sera rendue en 
 toute surete.” 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 “ Count Soltijcof is concerned that he cannot 
 gratify Messrs. Cripps and Clarke in obtaining 
 permission for them to pass the frontiers, since 
 that depends solely on his Majesty the Emperor. 
 As to the conveyance of the letter addressed to 
 the English Minister at Petersburg, those Gen- 
 tlemen may send it by the post, and it will be 
 delivered in perfect safety." 
 
 As a comment upon this curious communica- 
 tion, it may be necessary to add, concerning the 
 pretended security of letters entrusted to the 
 post in Russia, that few of them ever reached 
 their destination: they were all opened and 
 read by the police; and often destroyed, or sent 
 back to their authors. We had, at that time, 
 no other means of intercourse with our Minister, 
 than by sending a messenger the whole way 
 from Moscow to Petersburg; a distance nearly 
 oqual to five hundred miles ; and it was in this 
 manner we obtained his instructions for attempt- 
 ing an escape by the southern frontier. 
 
APPENDIX, N* II. 
 
 4.53 
 
 No. II. 
 
 TRANSLATION 
 
 OF THE 
 
 REPORT made by a BOARD of RUSSIAN ENGINEERS, 
 
 ON TIIE STATE OF THE 
 
 INTERNAL NAVIGATION OF RUSSIA. 
 
 The present water communication between the 
 Volga and the Baltic, having the Canals of 
 Vyshney Voloshok for its point of separation and 
 reservoir, dates its origin from the year 1711. 
 One part of the reservoirs, sluices, &c. at this 
 place, serves to improve the navigation of the 
 Tvereti and the other, to render the passage of 
 the craft, over the Borovitsky Falls (in the Msta), 
 less dangerous. This part of Inland Navigation 
 is brought to all the state of perfection it is 
 capable of; except finishing the Cut from Viliev- 
 sky, for an extraordinary supply of water, in 
 time of drought, out of the Lake Velia. This 
 Canal was begun in 1779 , but soon abandoned. 
 In 1797, the work was again resumed. In 
 1 798, an extraordinary drought prevailed, and ex- 
 hausted the reservoirs of Vyshney Voloshok to that 
 degree, that the vessels bound to St. Petersburg 
 
 Tlae Canals 
 of Vyshney 
 Voloshok. 
 
 Vilievsbj 
 
 Canal. 
 
454 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 Novogo- 
 
 rndsky 
 
 Canal. 
 
 were in danger of being totally stopped 1 2 3 ; 
 which circumstance was a convincing proof of 
 the absolute necessity to complete this Cut 
 from the Lake Velia. But, as the sole object 
 of this undertaking was the mere supply of 
 water to Vyshney Voloshok, after leaving of which 
 the barks were exposed to new danger, in pass- 
 ing the Cataracts of Borovitsky, and in navigating 
 the Lake Ilmen (which not only subjects them to 
 loss of time in watching for favourable weather, 
 but to imminent risk of the total loss of capital, 
 and many lives, from the natural turbulency of 
 this water), the merchants frequenting this track 
 voluntarily proposed paying a toll of ten roubles 
 for each vessel, to make a passage practicable 
 round the Ilmen leading from the Msta direct to 
 the 'Volchof. The plan was adopted, on exami- 
 nation, in 1775 ; but the work not begun till 
 1797 , under the denomination of the Novogo- 
 rod&ky CanaP. In 1800, the spring caravan, 
 taking advantage of the high water, usually 
 prevalent at that season, effected a passage 
 through this canal with ease, though not yet 
 
 (1) To extricate the caravans, cost 20, 000 roubles. 
 
 (2) For this purpose, 18,000 roubles were appropriated. 
 
 (3) 250,000 roubles were assigned for this work. 1 he toll collected, 
 produced 50,000 roubles ; and the whole sum of 300,000 roubles is 
 already expended, 
 
455 
 
 APPENDIX* N° II. 
 
 perfectly finished. Its completion was to be in 
 1802 . 
 
 The Canals of Vyslmey Voloshoh (forming, as 
 before mentioned, the chief point of separation, 
 on which depends the whole communication) 
 being the mere work of art, are liable to acci- 
 dent, from many natural causes. The destruction 
 of a dam, sluice, or other work of like conse- 
 quence, notwithstanding all human foresight or 
 precaution, may put an entire stop, at least for 
 a time, both to the conveyance of the necessaries 
 of life and articles of trade to the capital. Inde- 
 pendent of this circumstance, this track of 
 navigation requires annually an unmeasurable 
 quantity of wood, for the construction of vessels, 
 which can never return home for future use (the 
 Borovitsky Cataracts rendering it an absolute 
 impossibility); consequently the forests will be 
 exhausted, and, in a certain space of time, this 
 communication will decline of itself, and, finally, 
 be totally abandoned, for want of building mate- 
 rials. These inconveniences were observed by 
 Peter the Great : at the very beginning, he took 
 measures to find other means of communication ; 
 and, after a survey, had resolved on the junction 
 of the Rivers Kofgia and Fetegra. His demise 
 put a stop to the execution of this project at 
 that time: it was however resumed in 1785 , 
 and, on a further survey, adopted on the same 
 
456 
 
 APPENDIX, N” II. 
 
 Afariensky 
 
 Canal. 
 
 principles. The excessive drought ifi f/Qp 
 convinced Count Sivers, then chief of this 
 department, of the utility of this work, the 
 reservoirs of Vyshney Voloshoh being totally 
 drained: he procured an order from the Sove- 
 reign for the purpose; and the canal, now 
 called the Mariemky, was begun to be dug 
 between the Knfgia and Vitegra. The first, 
 excepting a few places which require being 
 cleared a little, is at all seasons pretty navigable, 
 and a canal of about six versts is to unite it with 
 the Vitegra. This canal is to be supplied with 
 water from the Malco Lake (Malcosero), through 
 which it takes its course; and the reservoir is 
 to have an additional supply by a Cut from the 
 great Kofgia Lake. This canal is to be fur- 
 nished with twelve sluices, seven of which are 
 to serve for the convoy of vessels from the 
 Ko/gia, up to the point of separation in the Malco 
 Lake: the other five, to conduct them down to the 
 Vitegra. This river requires infinitely more 
 labour than the Kofgia, to be made navigable ; 
 considerable falls require nineteen sluices, to 
 make a safe passage practicable; and in some 
 places, the digging of circuitous passages, to 
 shun the Falls, is absolutely necessary ; extend- 
 ing in all to about eight hundred fathoms (of 
 seven feet English). The whole space requiring 
 labour, the canal included, comprehends seven- 
 
APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 45 / 
 
 teen versts. Hitherto it has been successfully 
 carried on : the canal is finished ; ten versts on 
 the Vitegra cleared, and thirteen sluices com- 
 pleted. 
 
 In 1801 , the canal was supplied with ease, 
 and the greatest part of the communication 
 rendered navigable. The entire completion 
 of the whole, including the time necessary 
 for clearing the cataracts in the Vitegra, and 
 improving the Kofgia, it is computed, will be 
 in 1805 
 
 Independent of the benefits expected from 
 this canal, in avoiding the inconveniences of 
 that of Vyshney Voloshok, it is expected to open 
 another track, and procure a new, and not a 
 very circuitous passage, to the vessels going 
 from the Sheksna to the Volga. The caravan 
 from the Lower Volga will also be freed from 
 detention in waiting for high water at Vyshney 
 Voloshok and in the Msta River, by which the 
 passage through the former will be rendered 
 easier, and trade have a greater scope for 
 exertion and increase ; as Vyshney Voloshok, in 
 its most perfect state, cannot admit a passage 
 for more than 4000 barks annually, and thereby 
 
 (l) 2,000,000 roubles were assigned for this work; and in 1793 
 and 1800, 500,000 roubles were expended. 400,000 were computed 
 necessary for 1801. 
 
458 
 
 APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 impedes commerce. Still greater benefits 
 would accrue from the Marienshy Canal, if the 
 favourite plan of Peter the First were put into 
 
 Project for 
 establish- 
 ing a com- 
 munication 
 by water 
 between St. 
 Petersburg 
 and Arch- 
 angel. 
 
 The Cata- 
 racts of the 
 River Voi- 
 chof \ and 
 towing- 
 track. 
 
 execution ; viz. that of establishing a commu- 
 nication by water between the ports of St- 
 Petersburg and Archangel, or the Baltic and the 
 White Seas. In 1800 , by order of the Emperor, 
 its practicability was examined into, and found 
 feasible, by means of the River SheJcsna, and 
 the Lake Kubenskoy. The proper arrangements 
 were made, and the Department of Water 
 Communication has it in view to put it into 
 execution in due time. Giving this advantage 
 to these two principal ports of the Empire 
 would be of the greatest utility, not only with 
 regard to trade, but the easy means of supplying 
 the Admiralty of St. Petersburg with timber for 
 the navy, from the abundant forests of the 
 North of Russia. There are other inconveni- 
 ences attending the navigation through Vyshney 
 Voloshoh ; viz. the Cataracts of the Volchof, and 
 the Outlet from the Ladoga Canal into the 
 Neva, where vessels are at times detained for 
 a fortnight by contrary winds '. Measures 
 were taken to lessen the danger of the Falls; 
 and proper roads or tracks for towing vessels 
 
 (1) For clearing the cataracts, 1 18,000 roubles were allowed ; and 
 for the towing road, 60,000 roubles j ninety versts of which are done- 
 
APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 459 
 
 against the stream, for the return of them, were 
 ordered to be made in 1799- To facilitate the 
 passage out of the Ladoga Canal into the Neva, 
 against wind and weather, a new outlet was 
 begun to be made, at Schlusselburg, the same 
 year*. In 1798, a new passage was also 
 effected at Ladoga. In general, the Canal of 
 Ladoga, through length of time 5 , requires an- 
 nual and important repairs. This canal is now 
 continued from the Volchof to the Sasy "River, 
 and thence called the Sdskoy. This work was 
 entered upon in 1769, and three versts thereof 
 finished ; and then abandoned ; and again re- 
 sumed in 1799 2 3 4 . Great as the importance of 
 the Ladoga Canal to the export trade of St. 
 Petersburg, that of the Sdskoy is no less so, in 
 consideration of the facility of conveying the 
 foreign goods imported at St. Petersburg, and 
 distributing them in the interior of the country. 
 The chief object of these canals is, to avoid the 
 Lake of Ladoga. From the River Sasy, mer- 
 chandize is conveyed, through the River 
 Tifenka, to the city of the same name ; a land- 
 carriage of ninety versts brings it to the wharf 
 
 (2) The new Outlets out of the Canal of Ladoga are, one at Schlus- 
 selburg, and another at the town of Ladoga. 
 
 (3) The Outlet at Schlusselburg was estimated to cost 117.U0Q 
 roubles ; that at Ladoga , 71,000 roubles. 
 
 (4) 240,000 roubles are assigned for this canal. 
 
 The Saskoy 
 Canal. 
 
460 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 of Sominka; and from thence, by the rivers 
 Tzagodotchia and Mologa, it is conveyed to the 
 Volga , which supplies all the adjacent country. 
 From the wharf of Sominshay, about 2,000,000 
 roubles in value, of foreign goods, is annually 
 carried into the interior. The deepening of 
 some of the rivers belonging to this inland 
 navigation has increased this branch of trade ; 
 but the considerable land-carriage between the 
 Somina and Tifin greatly impede its farther 
 progress. The junction of these two last 
 wharfs, by water, engaged the attention of 
 Peter the First ; and proper measures for the 
 discovery of the most eligible means were taken 
 by Generals Dedenef, liesanof, and others, in 
 1765 . In 1800, the examination was resumed, 
 and the junction of the two wharfs found prac- 
 ticable, by a canal on the English plan, adapted 
 to the navigation of such vessels as are now in 
 use on the rivers Tifevka, Sasy, and Somina. The 
 sluices to be constructed on this canal are to 
 have no more than ten and twelve feet of 
 breadth, when opened. If the plan of those of 
 Vyshney Voloshok were to be followed, they 
 being thirty-two feet wide, a sufficiency of 
 water could never be collected ; nor does the 
 situation of the place admit of this mode of 
 construction. By an Imperial ukase, the work 
 was to begin in 1802, and conclude in 1804. 
 
APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 461 
 
 When the Marienshy Canal was begun, in 
 1 799 , the practicability of a circuitous inland 
 navigation, round the Onega and Ladoga Lakes, 
 was also examined into, to avoid passing any 
 part of them : the first by means of the rivers 
 Svir and Pltegra, the latter through the Sasy to 
 the Svir. This last was ordered to be carried 
 into execution in 1802, and its chief object is 
 to facilitate the return of barks homeward. 
 The canal from the Sasy to the Svir was or- 
 dered in 1802‘. 
 
 To make a communication by water, between 
 the Caspian and White Seas, or the Volga and 
 the Northern Dvina rivers, was in agitation in 
 the reign of Peter the Great ; but the first 
 survey was only made in 1785; and, as hardly 
 any natural obstacle was found to oppose the 
 execution of the plan, it was adopted, and a 
 canal 4 begun to be dug, named the Northern 
 Katherinskoy, . which was to unite two small 
 rivulets, having a morass of an immense ex- 
 tent for their common source, situate on the 
 frontier of Permia and Onstnhk. One of these 
 rivulets has a communication, by means of 
 the Kama, with the Volga ; and the other 
 with the Northern Dvina, through the river 
 
 Project for 
 circuitous 
 Canals 
 round the 
 Lake La- 
 doga and 
 Onega. 
 
 TheNorth- 
 ern Kalhe - 
 rinskoy 
 Canal. 
 
 (1) It is however not begun. 
 
 (2) 600,000 roubles was assigned, and 100,000 expended ; but the 
 war put a stop to the work. 
 
462 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 The junc- 
 tion of the 
 Volga with 
 the .Don, by 
 means of 
 the S/uila. 
 
 Vitchdgda. But the canal remains unfinished ; 
 and the only advantage that resulted from the 
 attempt was, the opening of a new track, or 
 road, by land, through a country then totally 
 waste and uninhabited. This canal could have 
 supplied Archangel, at a trifling expense, with 
 merchandize, not only from the province • of 
 Viaiha, but through the river Belaya, from the 
 Government of Oujimsk and Tznsiovaya from 
 that of Perrnia, in the course of one summer. 
 The importance of this canal is enhanced, by 
 the facility it affords of conveying timber for 
 ship-building to Archangel, from the immense 
 forests in its vicinity, abounding, particularly, 
 in the Listvinitzna wood, at Tchardina. 
 
 The junction of the Volga and the Don was 
 ever an object in view with Peter the First; 
 and he himself discovered two practical tracks; 
 one from the Lower Volga, by the union of the 
 rivulet Kamishinha with that called Hajla, by 
 a canal of four versts: the other was by 
 
 uniting the source of the Don, twenty-five 
 versts from the town Ghepisan, with the ri- 
 vulet Shat a, which falls into the Oupa, one of 
 the chief branches of the Oka, which empties 
 itself into the Volga. Of the latter, a consi- 
 derable part was carried into execution ; 
 twenty-four sluices of limestone were built; 
 and the canal dug the extent of the Vale of 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 463 
 
 Robrihy ', answerable to the depth of the bed 
 of the Don. Why a work thus far advanced 
 was abandoned, is not known ; some supposed 
 it was for want of water; but the situation 
 of the Vale of Robrihy confutes this statement, 
 as being capable of becoming an immense 
 receptacle of water, and quite sufficient for 
 this navigation. The hydrography of this 
 place will, however, not admit the navigation 
 of vessels of greater length than ninety feet, 
 fourteen feet of breadth, and drawing three 
 feet of water, with a full lading. The other 
 plan proposed, of joining the Don and the 
 Volga by means of the Kamisliinka and the 
 Hqfla, proved abortive : though actually begun, 
 an insufficiency of water was apparent. The 
 reservoir was intended to be placed at the 
 sources of the Kamisliinka ; but they were 
 found hardly sufficient to supply the common 
 stream of the river. The Hqfla being fifty feet 
 higher than the level of the Volga, could furnish 
 a reservoir of water (point of separation in the 
 original): yet, even with this advantage, the 
 navigation must be carried on in caravans, 
 or in large collective bodies of barks ; other- 
 wise the passage will not be effected, for want 
 of water. 
 
 (!) Better expressed by the name of the Hollows of liabi lity. 
 
464 
 
 APPENDIX, N“ H. 
 
 Division of the Black Sea, Inland Navigation . 
 
 The Dnieper is most certainly the chief 
 river of all the provinces adjacent to the 
 Euxine. This river is the younger sister of 
 Volga ; and has its source near the same place 
 with the above, and the Southern Dvina. It 
 may be called navigable from Smolensk, if not 
 from Dorogobush. Two very great obstacles 
 render the navigation of this river inconvenient. 
 First, flats, or rather moving sands, a cir- 
 cumstance common also to the rivers of the 
 North of Russia: from above Kiof, down to 
 Krementchuh, they greatly incommode the 
 navigation, during the middle of the summer. 
 Near the shore, on both sides, are passages 
 or channels, of considerable depth; but they 
 are uncertain, as they frequently shift during 
 the high waters. It is confessed, that there 
 are no other means whatever to remedy this 
 inconvenience, (the considerable quantity of 
 moving sand contained by the Dnieper being 
 taken into consideration,) unless a body ot 
 pilots be established, divided into districts, 
 to sound, and put beacons or directions in 
 the proper channels, for vessels to go by, 
 after the high water subsides; as is done in 
 the Nor tli, particularly on the Svir ; and which 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 46 
 
 regulation has not, as yet, taken place on the 
 Dnieper. The Second fatal obstacle to the 
 safe navigation of this river is, the Cataracts, 
 which limit the passage to the time of high 
 water during the spring; and even then at- 
 tended with some difficulty, and only of a 
 fortnight or three weeks’ duration. Nothing 
 but the enaction of a code of commercial laws 
 can ever render the Black Sea useful to the 
 empire. Since Russia has acquired the domi- 
 nion thereof, the inconvenience and obstacles 
 which trade has suffered are manifest, and 
 severely felt. During Prince Potemkins go- 
 vernment of these provinces, a vain attempt 
 was made to clear the Cataracts : the war in 
 1787 put a stop to the work. The Board 
 of Inland Water Communication have begun 
 the following works : First, The deepening a 
 passage between the Cataracts, by means of 
 temporary dikes, through which vessels may 
 pass in the very middle of summer, both up 
 and down the river. Secondly, The great 
 Nenasilez Cataract, having baffled all attempts 
 made to render a safe passage practicable, 
 particularly for vessels going up the river, it 
 was resolved to dig a circuitous canal round 
 it, provided with sluices, through a rocky 
 shore; which is now in hand. Three other 
 
 vol. r. 
 
 2 a 
 
466 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 cataracts 1 are perfectly cleared; about eight 
 remain to be worked on ; and it is expected, 
 that, from the year 1805, the river will be 
 navigable ; which will confer inestimable 
 advantages on the country, particularly in 
 furnishing the ulterior of Russia with salt, 
 which will render the importation of it by 
 the Baltic unnecessary, and save great sums 
 of money to the Russia -Polish provinces, 
 which they pay, in coin, for this commodity 
 in foreign dominions. Below the Cataracts, 
 the Dnieper has a resemblance to the Volga ; 
 though it is intersected by many islands and 
 flats, which, however, do not much impede 
 the navigation. The current in general there 
 is not strong ; and admits, not only ol the 
 use of oars for vessels going up, but of sails 
 with very little wind. Its morassy shores, 
 in some districts, preventing the use of the 
 towing-line, it is necessary to establish paths 
 for this purpose; as most certainly it will 
 accelerate the return of barks with salt, silk, 
 cotton, and other products of the Levant, 
 
 (I) “ The work goes on slowly, and was not half finished at the 
 end of the summer of 1805. A float or transport of timber, which 
 arrived while 1 was at Odessa, had been two years in coming down, 
 from the impediments of the cataract and above descent. 
 
 Note by Mr. R. Comer. 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 467 
 
 without which the fabrics and manufactories 
 in the interior cannot exist. All these im- 
 provements, or rather new regulations, are 
 carrying into execution very slowly. To the 
 foreign, or export trade of this river, most 
 certainly the Leman, or its estuary, opposes 
 great difficulties. Its influx into the Euxine 
 being through several branches, and its cur- 
 rent extremely slow, it is natural that sand 
 banks should be formed. In summer it has 
 hardly six feet water, and merchant vessels 
 are obliged to load beyond its mouth (thirty- 
 five versts), at the Guhokaya pristan, or deep 
 wharf; which, notwithstanding its denomination, 
 is very unfit for the purpose; the road being 
 at times unnavigable from November to May: 
 and when the dock-yard was at Cherson, the 
 men-of-war were obliged to be transported, 
 on camels, over the sand flats, with which 
 the Leman abounds. These two inconveniences 
 forced Government to look for a more eligible 
 situation ; and Nicholaef, by its favourable situation 
 on the Bog and the Ingul, was chosen for the 
 seat of the Admiralty, and the yard for building 
 men-of-war ; which place, however, is not 
 convenient for trade, as having too distant a 
 communication with the Dnieper. Trading- 
 vessels lost so much time in going up the Bog, 
 even with a favourable wind, that more time 
 
408 
 
 APPENDIX, N” II. 
 
 was often spent in effecting a passage to 
 Nicholaef, than was necessary to make a voyage 
 from the leman of the Dnieper to Constantinople. 
 Not having attained the desired point at this 
 place, it was resolved to find a port for mer- 
 chant vessels at another, that offered less 
 difficulties in the establishment; and also to 
 which the carriage of merchandize could be 
 more easily effected by transports. The Bay 
 of JIadgiby was pitched upon as fit for con- 
 structing the Port of Odessa ; whose vicinity 
 to Poland, Podolia, and Volhynia, made the 
 choice more eligible and favourable, not only 
 to trade, but also answering some naval pur- 
 poses. The navigation is uninterrupted the 
 whole year (not true) at this place. Magazines 
 and store-houses are erecting for the goods 
 brought from the Dnieper by water, not only 
 here, but along the Dniester, for the products 
 of Galicia and Podolia. 
 
 Not above 300 vessels and boats go down 
 the Dnieper to Nicholaef and Cherson ; but vast 
 floats of timber descend for the Admiralty. 
 This however is comparatively little, to what 
 this commerce will amount to, when the Ca- 
 taracts are cleared'. From Krcmentchuh, about 
 
 (1) “ It will be observed, that the CataracU of the Dnieper, and 
 Shoals in the Dniester, are the great obstacles to the interior com- 
 munication from the Mark Sea: it is therefore most astonishing, that 
 
 a nation, 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 469 
 
 sixty barks, with salt, go already up the river 
 to Smolensk, as well as up some of the branches 
 of the Dnieper ; viz. the Pripit, Desna, Beresang, 
 to the wharfs of Novogorod, Severskoy , Pinslc, 
 and Borovitz. The salt is conveyed above 
 700 versts by land, to Krementchuh, from the 
 Crimea, by a great number of oxen. When 
 the Cataracts are cleared, the land-carriage 
 will be reduced to 1 20 versts, from the Crimea 
 to the Bereslasskoy Wharf on the Dnieper; and 
 the salt may be conveyed straight by water 
 from the Salines of Kinburn. 
 
 Branches of, or Rivers falling into, the Dnieper. 
 
 A river of the Dnieper's, magnitude has na- 
 turally many smaller streams falling into it; 
 which are the more worthy of attention, as 
 their banks and circumjacent country abound 
 with vast forests of oak, &c. out of which 
 hardly any timber has yet been drawn. Most 
 of these rivers, particularly those falling into 
 the Upper Dnieper, are already navigable, or 
 capable of being made so, unless in such 
 seasons of great drought when even the Dnieper 
 itself is hardly passable. 
 
 a nation, with the command of men that Russia has, does not surmount 
 the difficulty. Greater exertions liave been made by Companies of 
 individuals in England.” Note by Mr. II, Corner. 
 
470 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 The Druza, small and not navigable, joins the 
 Dnieper at Rogatchef. 
 
 Beresina, pretty considerable. 700 versts 
 along this river, masts are carried down to 
 the town of Borisof, and even to the wharf 
 of Pedoserskoy. In this passage, a land- 
 carriage of thirty versts was unavoidable, 
 from the wharf to the town of Kransnic 
 Luki; whence they were floated down by 
 Essa, to the Oulla, at Lepeln. Measures 
 were, in consequence, taken to effect a 
 junction between the Beresen and the Essa. 
 In 1801 , the work was already done, except 
 some sluices, and other improvements ne- 
 cessary to be made. The Beresen was to 
 be joined to the Rivulet Sergutz, and the 
 Lake Plavio, and Beresla ; and thence, with 
 the Skogy and Menezso, with the Essa and 
 Oulla. This will be of immense advantage 
 to the trade of the Dnieper with the ports 
 on the Baltic. On the Beresen three wharfs 
 are already established; at Bobrusha, Borisof, 
 and Pedoser : the last is only for timber. 
 To the two first, about twenty barks are 
 annually towed up, with salt, for the pro- 
 vince of Minsk. Among the great number 
 of rivulets falling into the Beresen, the most 
 considerable is the Svirtolz, which is navi- 
 gable as far as Minsk, from the Spring 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 471 
 
 to July. It is particularly convenient for 
 floating down of timber; which may be 
 procured, in any quantity, from the immense 
 forests that are in its course, and which 
 hitherto have remained untouched. 
 
 The Sosiia is considerable; and only few 
 improvements are necessary to enable ves- 
 sels to ascend to the town of Mstistof: it 
 has its course near Smolensk. It is now 
 navigable, until the month ot July, the 
 extent of 4 to 500 versts. Kiof is supplied 
 with timber by this river. 
 
 The PiupiT is the principal branch of the 
 Dnieper: it takes its course from west to 
 east, and separates Lithuania from Volhynia. 
 Almost all the timber to Cherson goes from 
 this river. Barks, carrying each from 8 to 
 10,000 pouds of salt, are easily towed up, 
 above 500 versts, to Pinsk. 
 
 The following Rivers fall into the Pripit: 
 
 The Pina, became partly navigable through the 
 King's Canal ; but sluices are necessary to be 
 built, for vessels to frequent it during summer. 
 
 The Stiuimen, or the Suchona, must be cleared 
 of some stones, and then vessels may go as 
 far as Kovel. 
 
 Yatzolda is the estuary of the Oginshy 
 Canal, and only wants clearing of weeds, Sc 
 
472 
 
 APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 It has a very weak current, which runs, in 
 general, through marshy ground. 
 
 Gorona and Slutza could be made navigable 
 for the extent of 4 or 500 versts ; and through 
 these a communication with all Colliynia might 
 be opened, by means of sluices in their upper 
 parts, to be built at the dams of the many 
 mills there existing. 
 
 Sr ira could easily be made navigable to Lu- 
 tcnza, and even as far as Dubno, if twelve 
 sluices were built. 
 
 Zna and Lan. During high water, some timber 
 is brought down these rivers from Lithuania. 
 
 Oudobre, a small river from Volhynia: this 
 might be improved for some hundred versts. 
 
 Ptisha, a pretty considerable river from Li- 
 thuania: on this a great quantity of timber 
 is floated down. 
 
 Ousha wants improvement, to be made navi- 
 gable to Obronsk. 
 
 Continuation of the Rivers falling into the Dnieper. 
 
 The Tetereva, now of little use, but capable of 
 being made navigable, even to Grtomis. 
 
 Desna, equally with the Fripit, is of the highest 
 consequence to the trade of the country in 
 general ; and even of more, in some respects, 
 than the latter, as it takes its whole course 
 through the most fruitful provinces and well- 
 
APPENDIX, N* II. 473 
 
 wooded districts. It is navigable the extent 
 of 800 versts past Tchermgof, Novogorod, and 
 Severskoy, to Bransk. Provisions, timber, 
 and other goods, are carried by it from 
 Bransk to Cherson, and even sometimes to 
 Smolensk, by means of the Dnieper. From 
 one to three hundred barks depart out of it 
 annually ; and more than this number return 
 to it from Krementchuk with salt. It was 
 proposed to join the Desna with the Oka, by 
 means of the Volva and the Zishdra ; a pro- 
 ject of the highest importance to the inland 
 communication of Russia. By this junction, 
 the conveyance of home-products from the 
 Ukraine, Little Russia, See. and of those of the 
 Levant, through the Black Sea, would be 
 greatly facilitated. No doubt the Board 
 will, in due time, take these advantages into 
 consideration. 
 
 Rossa, though small, is yet abundant in water 
 during spring. 
 
 The Soujla might become of great importance, 
 being navigable from Luhen, were the Cata- 
 racts of the Dnieper cleared, and opportunity 
 given for exporting the products of the coun- 
 try it waters. 
 
 Pi col. This river, flowing through a steppe, 
 is hardly worth improving; it is navigable 
 only during the spring, and is dry in summer. 
 
4/4 
 
 APPENDIX, N” II. 
 
 Krilopka, an inconsiderable river of the 
 steppe or desert. It was once intended to 
 join the springs of this stream with the Ingul, 
 which falls into the Bog. The junction of 
 the rivers of the steppe will ever be a most 
 difficult task; as they are, properly speaking, 
 only torrents, and mostly dry in summer. 
 To effect the object in view, it was found 
 necessary to dig 100 feet in depth, which was 
 impracticable; but could the project be exe- 
 cuted, the passage over the Cataracts of the 
 Dnieper would have been avoided, and the Port 
 of Nicholaef' gained inestimable advantages. 
 
 Vorskla, considerable, but possesses traffic: 
 passing near Putiava, it could be made 
 navigable to the town Aktiar of the Ukraine. 
 
 Orel, only a torrent. 
 
 Samara could be improved, and no doubt will 
 be considered in future : it is considerable ; 
 and though a stream of the desert, its water 
 never fails. Until this time it has never been 
 frequented ; but the discovery of some coal 
 mines, in the neighbourhood of Pajlograd, will 
 inevitably render the navigation of this river 
 of the greatest consequence for the conveyance 
 of coals to the Dnieper; particularly so, as 
 the country is bare of wood for fuel. 
 
 (1) See Mr. Corner’s Note in p. 468. 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 Laura, Tamalkalka, Basavlouk, Kon- 
 skata. — Merely torrents of the steppe, and 
 hardly capable of being improved. 
 
 Inguletz, a considerable river of the steppe : 
 it has not been frequented hitherto, for want 
 of hands, the country being uninhabited. In 
 process of time, it may serve for the convey- 
 ance of stone, and even coal, in proportion as 
 the population increases. Grazing sheep 
 and oxen near it, for which it is particularly 
 adapted, will open a new trade, in wool, 
 skins, cheese, tallow, salt beef, See. 
 
 Bugg, or Bog, the Hypanis of Strabo, falls into 
 the leman of the Dnieper, not far from the 
 mouths of this river, thirty versts above 
 Oczakof. It is one of the principal rivers 
 of the country, and vessels of war may go 
 up )50 versts: beyond this, it becomes a tor- 
 rent for 3 or 400 versts, full of cataracts, and 
 can only be made navigable at an expense 
 and labour that would never produce equi- 
 valent advantages. Were there any practi- 
 cable or reasonable means of improving this 
 river, Nicholaef would be greatly benefited 
 by the conveyance of naval stores from 
 Podolia and Volhynia. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Bog, 
 
 t 
 
 The Ingul, an extensive river. A junction 
 
4/fl 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 with the Dnieper was thought of, but found 
 totally impracticable, from the height of its 
 shore, as well as its shallows. At Elizabeth, 
 it has a sufficiency of water ; and by the means 
 of twenty sluices, on the English plan, might 
 be made navigable as far as Nicholaef, where 
 the docks, magazines, &c. for the navy, are 
 situate ; which port would be of the greatest 
 importance, could a proper communication 
 with the interior, by water, be established; 
 but the difficulties, both on the Bog and 
 Ingul, put an absolute bar to the project, 
 and the Dnieper is its only resource. The 
 passage from this river, through the Leman 
 to the Bog, is extremely dangerous for vessels 
 of the construction in use on the Dnieper, and 
 perfectly impracticable for floats of timber. 
 Another great inconvenience attends this 
 port, its distance from the entrance of the 
 Bos, an hundred versts, where almost every 
 
 O 7 
 
 wind of the compass is necessary, and the 
 least gale exposes the ships to great deten- 
 tion. The river being extremely broad, and 
 the channel, or chief passage, nearly in the 
 middle, with little water on either shore, 
 towing becomes impossible for vessels draw- 
 ing more than two feet and a half water. 
 Ships are towed up by boats, with such a 
 waste of time, that two voyages may be 
 
APPENDIX, N” II. 
 
 477 
 
 sometimes made to Donstf g . during the 
 period employed in going up the Lower 
 Bog to Nicholaef. 
 
 Tedorovskaya, Titakli, Merlvayavoda, 
 the two Tartaey, Korabelnaya — insigni- 
 ficant streams of the steppe. 
 
 The Sinucha, a small marshy, stagnated rivulet. 
 It was thought practicable here, by means of 
 a Canal of five or six versts, to unite the 
 Dniester with the Bog, between the Kodima 
 and the Yaourlina. But a hill, and the 
 necessity of a great number of sluices on the 
 Yaourlina, which, notwithstanding, abounds 
 in water, made the enterprise very difficult. 
 Were the country more peopled, and afforded 
 more products, this plan might have been 
 executed : at present it is impossible. The 
 Upper Bog has many other branches, which 
 have more water, in general, than the streams 
 of the steppe ; their sources being in the hills 
 of Podo/ia and Volhynia, which form a part of 
 the chain of the mountains of Karabat. Till 
 the Bog be made navigable, it is needless to 
 think of improving these rivers, although 
 they water the most fruitful provinces of 
 the whole empire. 
 
 From the Dnieper to the Dniester, the boun- 
 dary of the empire on that side, arc many rivers, 
 or rather lemans and bays, which join the Euxine, 
 
 \ 
 
478 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 and go up the country a considerable way ; but, 
 in general, their estuaries are nearly choked with 
 sand; this, in a manner, separates some entirely 
 from the sea; and those that have visible commu- 
 nication, possess, for some versts, not above two 
 or three feet of water at their mouths. The 
 moving sands prevent improvement, or any 
 attempt to elfect a practicable passage into 
 those bays, which, but for that circumstance, 
 would become safe and convenient ports or 
 havens. In some of them salt may be procured. 
 
 Among the rivulets, bays, or lemans, on the 
 coast of the Black Sea, is the Gulph or Leman 
 of Beresanshoy, with the rivulet of the desert of 
 the same name. This stream is of no other use 
 but to water cattle, and requires more than 
 human art to be made navigable. The leman 
 extends itself about forty versts into the country : 
 it is of considerable depth, and about two versts 
 broad near Oczakof: it might have supplied this 
 place with a port, were not its entrance choked, 
 for a considerable space, with quicksand. It 
 produces fish, and also salt. 
 
 Yatchikrak the Little, a torrent falling into 
 the Beresan. 
 
 Telegul, equal to the Lake or Leman Beresan 
 in extent, is divided, in general, from the sea 
 by a sand-bank of three or four versts, ex- 
 cepting only one stream of communication, 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 4/9 
 
 three or four feet deep : this however changes 
 its course three or four times a year, during 
 stormy weather. This leman is not so deep 
 as the Beresan, not having above twenty feet 
 water in the middle. Its shore is marshy, and 
 hardly passable, which, it is supposed, infects 
 the air of the neighbourhood. It is very 
 rich in fish. Many small streams fall into it, 
 but it is dry in summer. The source of 
 this lake, or river, Telegul, has a very long 
 course, beginning at Kodima, near the Bog ; 
 from this it is only separated by a hill. Though 
 it is a stream of the steppe, it has a constant 
 current, being seldom dry in all parts ; this, it 
 is supposed, tends to the salubrity of the air. 
 
 The Bays of Adgibey are smaller than that of 
 Telegul, though very like in all other respects: 
 three small rivulets fall into them, of the same 
 name ; but these are dry in summer. 
 
 The Bays Konyalnitzkie, or rather Lakes, fifty 
 or sixty versts in extent, having no commu- 
 nication whatever with the sea, are about five 
 or six feet higher. They are of considerable 
 depth; but the shore being partly marshy, 
 the air around them is unhealthy. The river 
 of this name is much of the same length as 
 the Telegul, but becomes dry in summer. 
 
 The Rivulets Dalnih and Paraboy are common 
 torrents, perfectly dry in summer : they fall 
 
480 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 into lakes separated from the sea by quick- 
 sands. 
 
 The Dniester divides the Russian and Ottoman 
 dominions. It is of considerable magnitude, 
 and navigable for vessels of a middling size. 
 Without much expense or trouble, it could be 
 made navigable in a course of above 1500 
 versts. A trade might be carried thereon, 
 from the foot of the Krapatian chain of hills, 
 through all Galicia, Buhavina, Podolia, Southern 
 Moldavia, and Bessarabia, to the Black Sea. 
 But certain circumstances, however, have 
 always opposed and rendered abortive all 
 mercantile speculations or attempts to profit 
 by the course of this river, not only made by 
 the Poles, but even the Genoese, who were in 
 possession of this country, and had founded 
 Akerman and Khotim as principal staple towns ; 
 because its estuary was in possession of the 
 Tahtars, and the upper part was under the 
 dominion of the Turks ; people little fitted to 
 inspire confidence in traders. The peace of 
 1791 did away all difficulties, and this river 
 consequently became an object of attention to 
 Government. In general, it is deep : vessels, 
 even in seasons of draught, not drawing above 
 two feet water, may navigate it. Its upper 
 part, however, has many shallows ; these in 
 summer have not above two feet and a half 
 
APPENDIX, N* II. 
 
 481 
 
 water. But as the trade is carried on in 
 spring, during the high water, this inconve- 
 nience is not so much felt ; and the like in 
 autumn, when the barks return with cargoes of 
 less weight, assisted by the rains then pre- 
 vailing. At Yampole, on the upper part of 
 the Dniester, is, as formerly, a kind of cataract, 
 over a granite ridge; this is now cleared, 
 and the passage made free for navigation up 
 and down the river. The chief obstacle to 
 trade on this river was the want of towing- 
 paths, the establishment whereof is now under 
 consideration. 
 
 The Dniester, like the Dnieper, forms, at its 
 estuary, a leman or gulph, three versts in 
 length, and from four to six broad, which 
 joins the sea by two different branches or 
 outlets. This gulph is shallow, and will not 
 admit of vessels drawing more than five feet 
 water. However, some go hence to the 
 Crimea and Constantinople. Last war, the 
 Russian flotilla went through it, to the very 
 walls of Bender. Some brigantines were built 
 here by order of Prince Potemkin, which went 
 to Cherson and Nicholaef. The shallowness 
 of the leman, however, does not hinder a 
 considerable trade being carried on to Aker- 
 man, from Ovidiopole, situate thirty-eight 
 versts from Odessa; which, properly con- 
 
 VOL. I. 2 I 
 
482 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 sidered, is the only port of these parts. 
 Goods are sometimes carried from the Dniester 
 to Odessa by land, sometimes by water. On 
 the upper part of the Dniester are four 
 principal wharfs or staples; viz. in the Austrian 
 dominions, Stria and Salezic ; in Podolia, 
 Svanetz and Doubozar, through which is the 
 great road from Russia to Moldavia and Con- 
 stantinople, and where quarantine is also per- 
 formed. The leman of the Dniester abounds 
 in fish, particularly in sterlet and sturgeon. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Dniester. 
 
 The Knzurgan, a torrent, dry in summer, falls 
 into a fresh-water lake of the same name, and 
 joining the Dniester. 
 
 Botna has its source in Bessarabia, small and 
 marshy, and can only be of use when culti- 
 vation is more practised in its vicinity. 
 
 Komorofka, a torrent of the steppe. 
 
 Bi-uka and Refla, from Moldavia, of no use 
 whatever, but moistening the country in their 
 course. 
 
 Yasiilic, Chemaya, and Tamashik, torrents 
 dry in summer. 
 
 Yarlica, has plenty of water, flows quick over 
 a stony bottom, and approaches so near the 
 Bog ( Kodima ), that it was once intended to 
 unite the last with the Dtiiester ; but a hill, ex- 
 tending two versts, rendered the plan abortive. 
 
APPENDIX, r II. 
 
 483 
 
 At the Upper Dniester are many small rivulets, 
 or torrents, the Roshlcova, Roiikova, Svcintziha, 
 Sprutza, &c.all having their springs in Pndolia, 
 but of no use for navigation. The Dniester 
 divides into two branches: one retains the 
 original name, the other takes that of Strie 1 
 * # * 
 
 and at last falls into the Black Sea. The first 
 branch is navigable as far as the town of 
 Sambor, and the other to Strie. At Sambor, 
 the Pelofka, a small stream, falls into the 
 Dniester, by means whereof the Austrians 
 intend to join this river with the Fistula. 
 No other river of consequence is to be found 
 on the northern coast of the Black Sea, parti- 
 cularly in the Crimea, where no one stream 
 can connect it with the interior of Russia. 
 The only great tracts of water communication 
 are the Dnieper and the Don : the first has 
 Odessa, the last Taganrog, for its principal 
 port. The establishment of trade in the ports 
 of the Crimea will therefore prove a mere 
 chimera; as all goods must be carried thither 
 at vast expense, through waterless steppes. 
 
 Streams in the Crimea. 
 
 The Katzanka, Babsiianka, Kashtza Alma 
 Belbeka, Inkermena; mere torrents from 
 the mountains. 
 
 (l) A few words are wanted here in the original, 
 2 I 2 
 
484 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 The Sea of Azof extends from the Crimea to the 
 town of Azof, and joins the Euxine at the 
 Strait antiently called Bosporus. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Sea of Azof. 
 
 The Don has its source from the Ivanofshoy Lake, 
 not far from Tula ; it waters a considerable 
 extent of country, and divides into three 
 branches at the town of Tcherkask. At its 
 mouth, at Azof it is so very shallow, that 
 only flat-bottomed vessels can pass into the 
 sea. Two attempts were made to join this river 
 with the Volga : First, by means of the River 
 Shat a; and Secondly, that of Ilafla: but both 
 miscarried, as before mentioned. 
 
 The following Rivers fall into the Don. 
 
 The Danaet£ has its source a little above the 
 town of Belogorod, and is generally navigable, 
 particularly in spring. On this river are 
 some iron-manufactories and coal-pits. The 
 Eyedor, Korea, and Orkole, small and little- 
 frequented rivers, fall into it. 
 
 Voronege, only navigable in spring, when pro- 
 visions and other goods are conveyed to 
 Tcherkask. 
 
 Bolutzar, insignificant. 
 
 Delikul, only remarkable for three annual fairs 
 at the town of this name. 
 
APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 Kalitva has some little traffic. 
 
 Sosna, generally navigable: into it falls the 
 Oslrogosha, which, though small, is frequented 
 in spring. 
 
 Choper has its source out of a morass in the 
 province of Penza, a little beyond the northern 
 frontier of Saratof; has a course of 36o versts; 
 and waters a most fruitful country, abound- 
 ing in corn, pasturage, and wood. This river, 
 during its course through the district of 
 Choperskoy, is navigable, especially in spring, 
 when joined by the Vorona. Higher up, 
 shallows, and trunks of trees, put a stop to 
 the traffic. 
 
 Into the Choper fall 
 
 The Vorona, Koliteey, Gaiiala, Miekarev, 
 Arkadak, Karay, and Serdoba; all water- 
 ing a considerable extent of fruitful country, 
 particularly the Serdoba, for a space of eighty 
 versts. 
 
 Ilafea, mention of which was made before. 
 
 Medvitza, originating from some insignificant 
 springs in Saratof, and takes its course, 283 
 versts, through a steppe. Its banks are 
 tolerably inhabited ; and in spring navigable, 
 particularly after being joined by the Yettary. 
 Some small vessels were built upon this river 
 for the port of Taganrog ; these were carried 
 thither during the prevalence of the high 
 
486 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 water. Into the Medvitza fall the Yeskara, 
 Kolishley, Karamish, Balanda, Tersa, and 
 BurlucJc, having a course from thirty to a 
 hundred versts ; and might be useful, but for 
 the indolence of the inhabitants. 
 
 Communication by Water between the Baltic and 
 the Euxine Seas. 
 
 At the conquest of Poland, a plan was dis- 
 covered, in the Archives, by a Polish engineer, 
 for joining the Dnieper with the Southern Dvina, 
 by means of the rivers Oulla and Beresen. On 
 verifying the project, it was found the most 
 eligible of any yet proposed, and accordingly 
 
 The Bere - ordered to be begun, under the name of the Bere- 
 
 senkoy ° 
 
 Canai. senskoy Canal', in 1799; and is to be finished in 
 1805. By this new communication, the com- 
 merce, not only of the White and Little Russia, 
 but that of some other Southern Provinces, 
 would be facilitated and encouraged. Sixteen 
 years ago, it was in agitation to join the Dnieper 
 and Dvina, by a canal between the city of Orstra 
 and Babinovichy, and this was found practicable ; 
 but the expense would be much too great, and 
 the advantages resulting therefrom not equal to 
 those of the foregoing plan. 
 
 (l) The Polish-estimate amounted to 329,387 roubles, but was found 
 deficient. £>00,000 were added to the sum ; whereof, in 1801,386,232 
 roubles were expended. 
 
APPENDIX, N 0 II. 487 
 
 The commerce of the fruitful provinces of Th° o g m- 
 
 A ^ sky Canal. 
 
 Lithuania, Podolia, Minsk, See. even in the time 
 of the republic, engaged the attention of the 
 Polish Government. The Hetman Oginsky began 
 a canal, by which, and the rivers Shara and 
 Ghatzolda, a communication can be opened 
 between the Dnieper and the river Niemcn, con- 
 sequently between the Baltic and the Euxine 
 Seas; but the work was abandoned. Count 
 Sievers proposed a continuation ; this was re- 
 sumed in 17Q8, and it is supposed it will be 
 finished in 1 803 2 . By means of this canal, the 
 commerce of these provinces will be greatly 
 facilitated, as also the transporting of warlike 
 stores less difficult from the interior of Russia, 
 for the use of Government. This communication 
 would produce still greater advantages, were 
 the Niemen and the Dvina joined : a plan and 
 estimate are already made by General De Witt, 
 and the junction is to be effected by means of Project for 
 the rivers Nevesha and Lavenna. A cursory Niemen 
 
 with the 
 
 view of the map will soon convince every one D vina . 
 of the benefits that would accrue there from, not 
 only to the adjacent country, but to Livonia and 
 Lithuania; as also Courland, and even the country 
 beyond the Oginsky Canal. The products of 
 these rich provinces would be then naturally 
 
 ( 2 ) The estimate amounts to 250,000 roubles. 
 
488 
 
 APPENDIX, N' II. 
 
 The Cata- 
 racts of the 
 Dnieper. 
 
 carried to Riga, Kofna, kc. instead of Prussia, 
 whose ports of Kiinigsberg, Memel, Pi lan, kc. 
 are enriched by this trade. The native merchant 
 would then profit by the advantage which 
 naturally proceeds from a direct sale of his 
 goods in the ports of his own country, instead 
 of having recourse to the agency of the subjects 
 of a foreign power. 
 
 In order to improve the Southern Inland 
 Navigation, the clearing of the Cataracts of 
 the Dnieper is sedulously continued with suc- 
 cess. In places of insurmountable difficulty, 
 such as the Fall called Nenasetez, recourse will 
 be had to a circuitous passage, through canals 
 with sluices, locks, &c. ; and there are well- 
 founded expectations, that, in the course of a 
 few years, navigating vessels up the river, or 
 against the stream, will be practicable '. The 
 event is the more devoutly to be wished for, as 
 the Russian Polish provinces suffer greatly from 
 the scarcity of salt, for which an exorbitant 
 price is exacted. When the navigation up the 
 river is rendered practicable, these countries 
 will be commodiously supplied fijom the salt 
 lakes of Kinburn and of the Crimea 8 . It is 
 
 (1) 200,000 roubles are appropriated for this work. 
 
 (2) The salt lakes of the Crimea were farmed by Paul the First, 
 to one Peretz, a Jew, for less than 300,000 roubles. The contract is 
 now ended, and Government have kept the salines in their own 
 direction. The mode adopted will, it is firmly expected, produce 
 
 two 
 
t 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 much to be wished, that the mode of construct- 
 ing vessels now in use on the Dnieper were to 
 be changed, and a better adopted; as the 
 Dnieper ‘ bctidac are as weak and incommodious 
 as the barks of Fyshney Voloshok. 
 
 On the Dniester, the only difficult passage is 
 the Fall of Yampolsk, which is dangerous, even 
 at high and middle water: proper measures 
 are adopted to clear away the stones; and a 
 track, or towing path, is making for the returning 
 barks. The nobility have made, this summer, 
 an attempt to tow up vessels, which will be 
 productive of vast advantages, not only bringing 
 down the products of Podolia to the ports of the 
 Black Sea, but affording an easy conveyance of 
 Crimean salt by the returning vessels. The 
 inhabitants of this province suffer greatly for 
 want of this necessary article, which they 
 chiefly procure from Moldavia and Galicia 5 , at an 
 extravagant price ; and, what is more grievous, 
 they cannot purchase it but for silver roubles, 
 of the old coinage * * 3 4 , no other being current. 
 
 two millions annually; and 17,000,000 inhabitants (besides the mili- 
 tary and civil establishment, the families of the clergy and merchants) 
 
 be supplied at low price. Jews have retailed salt in Podolia, &c. at 
 more than a rouble a pond, or 36 lbs. English. 
 
 (3) Moldavia and Galicia have only rock-salt : when brought to 
 Odessa, it sells for 60 copeeks the poud. 
 
 (4) From the reign of Peter the First, to the Prussian war, under 
 Elizabeth. 
 
 489 
 
 Dniester. 
 
490 
 
 APPENDIX, N” If. 
 
 Division the First. 
 
 Rivers flowing from, or falling into, the Volga, 
 
 on the track to St. Petersburg. The 
 
 Vyslmey Voloshok Division of Water Com- 
 munication. 
 
 The Volga is the principal of the whole navi- 
 gation of this division. 
 
 Vazuza, navigated by 120 to 150 barks. 
 
 Gzat, furnishes also, annually, 600 barks. 
 
 Tvertza is the principal track to Vyslmey 
 Voloshok, conveying annually about 6000 
 barks and vessels of different sorts. 
 
 Medinka, a small branch, on which a number 
 of barks are built for sale at Ri/ma. 
 
 Mologa, a collateral track of inland navigation, 
 from the Volga to St. Petersburg, by means of 
 the rivers Tzagodocha, Goruna, and Somina, 
 with a land-carriage of ninety versts to Tifin : 
 from 200 to 260 vessels frequent it. This 
 year a canal will be begun, to join the wharfs 
 of Tifin and Somina; in consequence of which, 
 trade is expected to increase. 
 
 The Sh eksna affords another collateral branch 
 of inland navigation, from the Volga to St. 
 Petersburg, by means of Belo Osero, or the 
 White Lake; and the River Kofgia, to the 
 wharf of Badoshha ; from thence, by land, tq 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 491 
 
 the River Vitegra, the Lake of Onega, the 
 River Svir, the Lake of Ladoga, into the 
 Neva. This track will become the chief 
 means of supply to St. Petersburg, on the 
 completion of the Marienshy Canal. 
 
 Small Streams appertaining to this part of the 
 Volga, are 
 
 The Sestra, Sosha, Katorosla, Kostroma, 
 Ounsha, and Velluga. These are of small 
 importance to trade, except on account of 
 building vessels, of which from 2 to 3000 
 are constructed annually on their banks, 
 
 The following Rivers take their course into the 
 Lower Volga. * 
 
 The Oka. It conveys to Nishney Novogorod, 
 or to Novogorod the Less (or Lower), 2000 
 loaded vessels of different kinds, from six- 
 teen to twenty-seven fathoms in length ; 
 three, four, and six fathoms in breadth; 
 carrying each from 25 to 45,000 ponds of 
 goods ; and fit for service from four to eight 
 years. It is supposed a junction of the 
 superior Oka with the Desna, falling into the 
 Dnieper, is practicable. This circumstance 
 is the more to be wished for, as a great 
 quantity of meal, &c. could be furnished 
 
492 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 thereby, from the fruitful province of Little 
 Russia, for Moscow and St. Petersburg. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Oka. 
 
 Oupa and Shata, in the government of Tver. 
 In the time of Peter the First, it was 
 proposed to join the Shata with the Don, in 
 order to open a communication between the 
 Seas of Azof and the Euxine, and some of the 
 streams belonging to the division of the Volga. 
 
 Moskva, in the Moscow government. 
 
 Mocsha, in the Pezna government, through 
 the Tzna ', in the province of Tambof 
 From the city of Morshansk, 500,000 cools, 
 or ichetverts, of grain, and many other pro- 
 ducts of consequence, as tallow, &c. are 
 annually sent. In consequence of an Im- 
 perial order, canals were begun, to pass 
 round some dangerous place in the river 
 last mentioned, the Tzna. 
 
 Klasma, in the Vladimir Government. 
 
 The following Rivers belong to the same Division, 
 but are of less importance than the foregoing. 
 
 The Nara, Protva, Osetre, Prona, Ougra, 
 Vosa, Gisiidra, Nugra, Sousha, Roma- 
 novka, and Tish. 
 
 (I) The Tina falls into the Mocsha . 
 
APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 493 
 
 Navigable Rivers falling into the Lower 
 Volga. 
 
 Soura. A great quantity of the products of 
 the provinces of Penza, Saratof, and Simbirsk , 
 is conveyed through this river to Nishney 
 Novogorod (or Lower Novogorod). 
 
 Kama. The products of the governments of 
 Viatha and Permia are transported by this 
 river, and almost all those of Siberia by its 
 branches, viz. Tzusova, Ousa , Belaia, and 
 Viatha . 
 
 In the year 1786, it was proposed to join 
 the Northern Dvina with the Volga, by 
 means of the Kama, and a Canal, which 
 was accordingly begun, but not continued. 
 
 Samara, is navigated by vessels, mostly witii 
 salt, from Orenburg to Nishney Novogorod. 
 
 Kamishinka, a small stream, which became 
 noted only as it engaged the attention of 
 Peter the Great, as supposed capable of 
 furnishing the means to unite the Lower 
 Volga with the Don. A Cut was begun 
 between this stream and the Hafla, which 
 falls into the Don, but not finished. 
 
 The chief navigation, from the Volga to St. 
 Petersburg, as before observed, is by means 
 of the Tveret, leading to the point of sepa- 
 ration at Vyshney VoloshoJc ; through which 
 
494 
 
 APPENDIX, N* II. 
 
 the vessels pass into the Msta, shoot the 
 Borovitzky Cataracts, and so enter the Lake 
 Ilmen. 
 
 Msta. The cataracts in this river, known by 
 the name of Borovit'zhy, not only impede the 
 regular course of this trade, but occasion 
 great loss of property, and will ever be an 
 insurmountable bar to the return of vessels 
 homeward, or to the wharfs they belong to. 
 
 Rivers fulling into the Msta. 
 
 / 
 
 Valdaica and Ciiolova are only navigable 
 in spring, and even then very little. 
 
 Oliver.. On this river are the principal reser- 
 voirs of water for supplying the Msta. 
 
 Beresaika and Kejika have sluices, or dams, 
 for the same purpose. 
 
 Velia, Soroda, Leda, Koloda. Some wood 
 is floated down these rivers, during the spring, 
 at the highest water. 
 
 The Lake Ilmen. Besides the Msta, the 
 following Rivers fall into it. 
 
 Lovat and Tola; and the Yavan falling into 
 the latter river. Through these rivers 300 
 barks pass annually, which must cross the 
 lake to get into the Volchof River. 
 
 A project has been long in agitation, to 
 
 unite the River Tola with the lake Seligher • 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 495 
 
 and thereby effect a safe passage from the 
 Volga to St. Petersburg, by avoiding the Boro - 
 vitzhy Falls. The report of Captain Perry, 
 who examined the situation in 1711, was 
 unfavourable with regard to the execution. 
 General Villebois asserted having discovered 
 a proper track; but, on investigation, the 
 Senate rejected his plan, and adopted another 
 of General Dedenef s, by which the track of 
 Vyshney Voloshok was avoided. The intended 
 new passage was to be through the rivers Kolpa 
 and Sheksna, which are to be united by a canal of 
 seventy-six versts, provided with thirteen sluices. 
 
 To avoid the dangers attending the passage 
 through the Lake Ilmen to the River Volchof, 
 a canal, called the Novogorodski/, was dug ; 
 through which vessels now pass, direct from 
 the Msta to the Volchof. 
 
 The River Volchof presents also some diffi- 
 culties, having considerable cataracts : to do 
 away the dangers of these, a passage was 
 begun to be dug in the very bed of the river, 
 in a direct line ; and of such depth, that vessels 
 may pass with ease at the lowest water. The 
 work was entered upon in 1798. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Volciiof. 
 
 The Volchovetz, Shoba, Ciioresta, Pisop.- 
 
 siia, and Tigoda. Some half barks come 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 40 () 
 
 from these rivers; and also some wood, for 
 fuel, is floated from the Volchof. The vessels 
 enter the Canal of Ladoga. 
 
 The Canal of Ladoga. This well-known 
 canal was begun in 17 18 , finished in 1732 , 
 and is 104 versts in extent. If any thing 
 could be proposed for its improvement, it 
 were only to make its bed five or six feet 
 lower than the surface of the water in the 
 Lake of Ladoga. 
 
 The many reservoirs now inevitably neces- 
 sary to supply it with water, would, in that 
 case, be useless ; and the great annual 
 expense absolutely required for the conser- 
 vation of the dams built across the rivulets 
 falling into it (which originally cost much), 
 for the same purpose of collecting water, 
 would then be saved. The canal in general, 
 through length of time, requires considerable 
 sums annually, for necessary repairs : these 
 sums were diverted to other purposes during 
 the reign of the Empress Catherine, 
 and the canal nearly filled up. Paul 
 caused it to be cleared, and it is now in 
 good order. 
 
 The least wind from the Lake of Ladoga 
 formerly hindered vessels leaving the canal 
 from entering the Neva. In 1800 , therefore, 
 a new outlet was begun at Schlusselburg ; and 
 
497 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 vessels under the cover of the island have a 
 convenient egress, with every wind. 
 
 The River Neva. — Along the banks of 
 this river, a towing-path, up the stream, is 
 established. The Cataracts at Pella were 
 cleared in 1798'. 
 
 N.B. The navigation of the Lake Ladoga 
 is extremely dangerous ; and impracticable for 
 any vessels but what are fitted for sea. 
 
 The following Rivers fall into the Lake of 
 Ladoga: 
 
 The Volciiof, as before mentioned. 
 
 Sash is the means of communication between 
 the Volga and St. Petersburg, by the help of 
 the rivers Mologa, Somina, and Tifinha. 
 
 This river has some Falls, on which work 
 is now carried on. From the Sash, vessels 
 are obliged to navigate the Lake of Ladoga, 
 to make the estuary of the Volchof, and 
 sometimes the Neva. When the canal 
 between the Sash and the Volchof is finished 
 (the Sushkoij), which is a prolongation of ihe 
 great Ladoga Canal, the dangers of the lake 
 will be avoided; and, consequently, this 
 inland navigation will increase. 
 
 VOL. i. 
 
 (1) 28,894 roubles expended thereon. 
 2 K 
 
APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 a 
 
 The Pasha and Oyait. Through these rivers, 
 some timber is brought down ; and on their 
 banks a great number of vessels are built; 
 particularly those for the transporting oi 
 goods from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, and 
 even sometimes to Reval In the course of 
 1 802 , the digging of a circuitous canal about 
 the Ladoga Lake was to begin between the 
 rivers Sash and the Svir. On the completion 
 of this work, the quantity, now commonly 
 conveyed by the present track, of timber, 
 wood for fuel, charcoal, &c. will be trebled, 
 from the above rivers and the adjacent coun- 
 try, in not being exposed to the dangers of 
 the lake. 
 
 The Svia, a navigable river, by which many 
 valuable goods are brought from the environs 
 of the Lake of Onega, whence it derives its 
 source. Also by this river merchandize is 
 transported from the Volga, through the 
 Shelcsna, to Vitegra. It will form the chief 
 branch of the new projected water commu- 
 nication, between the rivers Kofgia and 
 Vitegra, by means of the Marienshj Canal. 
 The cataracts in it, though not of conse- 
 quence, still render the return of barks 
 difficult; they are now clearing with success; 
 but, at all events, the making a towing-path 
 will be necessary. Till now, these vessels 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 499 
 
 were worked up, at great expense, by human 
 labour. The return of a simple galliot, from 
 the Ladoga to the Onega Lake, costs two 
 hundred roubles. On this river are some 
 private dock-yards, for building ships, some 
 of which have even reached the Indies. 
 
 A considerable number of ships sail through 
 the Lake of Ladoga, to St. Petersburg, from the 
 towns of Olonetz, Serdopol, and Kexholm. 
 
 Besides the above-mentioned rivers, the 
 following take their course to the Ladoga 
 Lake. 
 
 The Ianesh, a small stream. 
 
 Ruscola, and Voxsa, larger than the Ianesh, 
 but are equally incompetent to give room 
 for the extension of inland navigation. The 
 extreme rapidity of their currents in general, 
 and particularly a cataract called the Imatra, 
 in the Voxsa, one of the most terrible known, 
 render navigation totally impracticable. 
 
 Inland Navigation from the Volga, by means of 
 the Rivers Mologa, Tighvinka, and Sash. 
 
 The Rivers form ing this Division of Inland 
 Navigation, are. 
 
 The Mologa, which becomes navigable at the 
 estuary of the Tzagodotza, which falls into it. 
 Tzagodotza; the upper part called Lida. 
 
 2 K 2 
 
500 
 
 APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 It is navigable for vessels not drawing more 
 than two feet water, when fully laden : into 
 it falls the Somina, which is even shallow at 
 the wharf of the same name: at its upper 
 part 200 boats are built, called tifenky, 
 some of which serve as transports in this 
 navigation; others are sent for sale to the 
 Volga. 
 
 The Gouin has some cataracts* but vessels go 
 up and down this river. 
 
 Tighvinka, from the town of Tighvin, to where 
 it joins the Sash : it is sufficiently deep for 
 the kind of vessels employed ; but from the 
 town, to its source out of the Lake Oserskoe , 
 it has either stony or gravelly bottom, and is 
 more like a torrent than a river. 
 
 Sash. During a whole century, a track was 
 sought for, to unite the wharfs of Tighvin 
 and Sominsk. Peter the First proposed 
 doing it, by joining the upper part of the 
 Tighvinka, through some lakes, with the 
 Somina : no other proofs remain of any 
 
 attempt to carry this plan into execution, 
 but what are gathered from tradition, and 
 the ruin of a house built by his order on the 
 spot intended for the reservoir. Another 
 plan, proposed by General Resanof, fixed the 
 point of separation at the little Lake Krupino, 
 the upper part of the Tighvinka serving as a 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 501 
 
 canal, by building thereon seventeen sluices. 
 It was proved, on examination, that the 
 reservoir could not furnish a sufficiency of 
 water for the canal intended to serve instead of 
 that of Fyshney Voloshok ; and, consequently, 
 the chief view to avoid the Borovitzky Falls 
 was frustrated. But, on transferring the 
 point of separation to the little River Volt- 
 shan, it was found practicable to establish 
 there a sufficient reservoir, not for barks, 
 but only for such kind of vessels as are 
 employed on the Tighvinka and Somina, 
 because the Gorum and Somina are too defi- 
 cient in water to admit vessels of the size 
 of the barks. This circumstance prompted 
 General Dedenef to propose the junction of 
 the Tighvinka with the Lida, which was to 
 form the point of separation by a canal of 
 seventy-six versts, furnished with thirteen 
 sluices, with iron chains, and of four or five 
 gates, with a fall of water of no less than eight 
 feet. From the Lida, another canal of seven 
 versts was to unite the whole with the Kolpa, 
 which falls into the Sheksna. But, on due 
 investigation, it proved that the indicated 
 places would furnish still less water than 
 those pointed out by General Resanof. 
 Besides, the line of direction proposed by 
 General DedeneJ led, in some places, through 
 
502 
 
 APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 eminences that required digging eight fathoms 
 (fifty-six feet) in depth; in others, through 
 low grounds, where dykes and dams were 
 to be erected, and even stone aqueducts 
 built, to convey the water ol the canal over 
 rivulets which crossed its course. Half a 
 century would hardly have sufficed for the 
 execution of such a stupendous enterprise. 
 This work, had it even been executed, would 
 not have answered, for want of water ; as the 
 Lida, the proposed point of separation, has 
 hardly a sufficiency to supply its eight 
 sluices. The difficulties attending the plans 
 of Generals Dedenef and Resanof being 
 evident, a new track was sought for, and 
 discovered in 1800 — 1801 ; and, in 1802 , 
 another canal was begun. 
 
 Inland Navigation from the Volga, by means of 
 the Rivers Siieksna and Vttegra. 
 
 The Rivers belonging to this Division are, 
 
 The Sheksna, the largest of those falling 
 into the Volga. Vessels go from Ribinsha 
 to Belosersh ; from thence, by the Beloe Lake, 
 or Beloozero, to the River Kofgia, and by it 
 as far as the wharf of Badosh/ca. The trade 
 of Kargopole is carried to the Sheksna, through 
 the Lake Voge, whence the goods are trans- 
 ported by land, forty versts, to the River 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 503 
 
 Proma, which falls into the Sheksna. The 
 vessels from the Volga to the wharf of 
 Badoshha are there unloaded, and their 
 cargoes carried fifty-five versts, by land, to 
 the city of Vitegra, then reloaded into 
 galliots, and by the River Svir conveyed to 
 St. Petersburg. 
 
 The rivers Kofgia and Vitegra are to be 
 joined by a canal of five versts and a half, 
 having thirteen stone sluices, with a descent, 
 or fall, of six or seven feet. The plan requires 
 only to be executed, to make this navigation 
 completely safe. Peter the First had it 
 already in view, but his demise put a stop to 
 the work. The public-spirited representations 
 (or rather patronage) of the present Empress 
 Dowager, Maria Fedorovna, to the Emperor 
 Paul, procured an order, in 1799, for a canal 
 to be dug, and thence called the Mariensky, as 
 a monument of her patriotism. 
 
 The following Rivers fall into the Sheksna : 
 
 The Louda. The lower part is pretty navigable ; 
 
 and a number of barks are constructed on it. 
 Ouloma and Slavenka furnish also conveni- 
 ences for building of barks. The respective 
 heads of these rivers approximate the Lake 
 KoubensJcoe, out of which issues one of the 
 principal scources of the Northern Dvina. 
 
504 
 
 APPENDIX, N* II. 
 
 Souchona, perfectly navigable ; and a number 
 of vessels go from Vologda to Archangel. 
 
 It was supposed that it was possible to 
 effect a junction between the Ouloma and the 
 Slavenka; and, in consequence of a survey in 
 1800 , some tracks were found that promised 
 success. The object of this plan was, first, 
 to open a water communication between 
 St. Petersburg and the city of Vologda; and, 
 secondly, to establish a like communication 
 between Archangel and Si. Petersburg. One of 
 these tracks led through a canal of five versts 
 (to be made), with a fall (or descent of water 
 of twenty-five in that space) through the Lake 
 Blagov efzenslcoye (out of which issues the 
 River Parosovitza, and falls into the Lake 
 Koubenshoe ), Kemsi, VaserinsJcoe, Oulamofskoe, 
 and Seversfcoc, and thence to the River Slavenka. 
 The other track was nearly through the same 
 lakes, but turned to the River Ouloma , which 
 river must be first made navigable. 
 
 The Yagretza; not navigable, and simply a 
 small rivulet. Some barks are built on it. 
 
 Pioma. This river formerly formed a part of 
 the navigation from Novogorod to Archangel. 
 From the River Sheksna, the vessels were 
 towed up the Pioma, twenty versts; thence 
 the goods were carried by land, forty-five 
 versts, to the Lake Voge; there re-loaded 
 
APPENDIX, N* II. 
 
 505 
 
 into other vessels, which went through the 
 little River Lourda, as far as the Lake LatzS, 
 out of which issues the River Onega, on which 
 the navigation continued to the village Mar- 
 komonsa, where the great Cataracts begin: 
 the goods were then again unshipped, and 
 carried by land nine or ten versts, to the little 
 River Yamsscha, through which, and the 
 Scheleksa, entered then the Dvina. 
 
 The Lake Be loo zero is not deep or dan- 
 gerous; the vessels employed on it ( belozerky '), 
 are much better constructed than those that 
 frequent the track of Fyshney Foloshok, and last 
 from eight to ten years. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Lake Beloozeuo, or White 
 Lake. 
 
 The Ouchtoma, not navigable; having its source 
 in the neighbourhood of the Lake Foge, from 
 which it is divided by mountains. 
 
 Kema. No vessels frequent it; but timber is 
 floated down. 
 
 The Kofgia. By this river, vessels went only 
 as far as the wharf of Badoshka. When the 
 Marienshj Canal is finished, they will be able 
 to proceed to its head, that is, fifteen versts 
 further than Badoshk. 
 
 •j 
 
 (1) A species of small craft thus called. 
 
50 G 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 When the plan of making the Mariensky 
 Canal was adopted, it was resolved to make the 
 River Vitegra more navigable, by digging canals 
 round the dangerous place, and erecting nine- 
 teen sluices; which work is already in hand. 
 The river is navigable from the head of the 
 canal to the Lake of Onega, a space of fifty-five 
 versts, and into which it empties itself. Only 
 about the extent of fifteen versts is necessary to 
 be worked on now. 
 
 The following Streams fall into the River Vitegra. 
 The Kall, Taeitza, Yand, Bol, Tighisma. 
 These inconsiderable streams are of no other 
 use but to form an extraordinary reservoir of 
 water for supplying the Mariensky Canal, in 
 case of need. 
 
 From the River Vitegra the vessels enter 
 the Onega, which they navigate sixty versts, to 
 the source of the Svir. Although the navigation 
 of the Lake of Onega is not so dangerous as that 
 of the Ladoga, the passage of barks or floats of 
 timber is not practicable. In consequence of a 
 proper survey, a track was discovered, which 
 admitted of a canal being dug through or across 
 the rivulets Megra and Oshta, from the estuary 
 of the Vitegra to the source of the Svir, by 
 which the navigation of the Onega will be 
 avoided, and the return of barks facilitated to 
 
APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 507 
 
 their respective wharfs. The canal is to be dug 
 seven feet lower than the level of the water in 
 the lake, which makes all sluices, &c. un- 
 necessary. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Lake Onega. 
 
 The Osiita, Metra, inconsiderable rivulets, 
 and not navigated, but some galliots are built 
 on them. 
 
 Vitegra, described before. At present, this 
 river is navigated only by 130 to ]6o vessels. 
 The Marienshj Canal, when finished, will 
 open a passage to many thousands. 
 
 Andoma, not navigated, but galliots built on it. 
 Vodla, the most considerable of all the rivers 
 falling into the Lake Onega: it maybe called 
 the source of the Stir and Neva. It had an 
 immense quantity of water, but its dreadful 
 cataracts render navigation absolutely im- 
 possible : unless just at its estuary, it is rather 
 a mighty torrent than a river. 
 
 These difficulties did not however dis- 
 courage Peter the First, who was sensible of 
 the vast advantages that would accrue to the 
 empire from a water communication between 
 St. Petersburg and Archangel. The survey being 
 made, it appeared that the easiest track was 
 through the very Vodla, supposing that, by 
 proper works, &c. a passage could be effected 
 
508 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 over the Cataracts; from this river the vessels 
 were to go up the rivulet Sckerevia, by help of 
 sluices, to the village Voloka, whence a canal of 
 five versts was to be made to the Lake Voloshkoe, 
 which was to form the point of separation. 
 From this lake issues the River Voloshha, 
 emptying itself into the Keni Lake, which gives 
 birth to a considerable river of the same name, 
 falling into the Onega River, down which the 
 navigation was to proceed, to the antient wharf 
 of the Novogorodians, at the village Markomonsa; 
 thence, by a canal of five or six versts, to the 
 River Yamtsa, through which, by the help of 
 sluices, to pass into the Northern Dvina. On a 
 new survey, in 1 800 , it appeared that not only 
 enormous sums were requisite to make the 
 Cataracts of the Podia passable, but doubts 
 were entertained, whether the proposed point 
 of separation, at the Lake p r oloshkoe, could 
 furnish the necessary water: but the chief 
 obstacle was found to be from the respective si- 
 tuations of the rivers Yamtsa and Onega, the latter 
 having an elevation above the former, of 1 1 7 m 
 the extent of 100 fathoms (7 00 feet Eng.), where 
 it is impossible to dig, or make use of a canal 
 by any known means. The Yamtsa could never 
 furnish a sufficiency of water, even were a canal 
 dug, of three or four versts long, and thirty 
 feet deep, at a great expense, through some 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 509 
 
 eminences, which of themselves produce no 
 springs. The project was therefore laid by, as 
 impracticable. 
 
 The Taeabitza, Philipi, and Sisla; insigni- 
 ficant rivulets, and of no use whatever. 
 
 The Poventza, with an immense body of water, 
 is a continued cataract, from its source, at 
 the Lake Volga , to its estuary, at that of 
 Onega. 
 
 In Peter the First’s reign, a junction of 
 the Lake Onega with the White Sea was pro- 
 jected, by means of the river (the Poventza ), 
 conjointly with either the Vigh or the Soumma. 
 At the persuasion of some merchants, a survey 
 was actually made in 1800. It appeared 
 that there was a possibility of conducting the 
 water of the Lake Vod/a, whence issues the 
 Poventza, to the Lake Mateo, or to the River 
 Telekina, whose source it forms, by means of 
 a morass, at the foot of the mountain Ma- 
 ceVa : and from thence by a circuitous canal 
 of seven versts, to be dug round the Falls of 
 the Poventza and the Vigh, to join the River 
 Onega with the above-mentioned Macelga 
 mountain. The Vodla Lake, being twenty- 
 nine feet higher than that of Mateo, forms a 
 most copious reservoir of water, (being the 
 highest receptacle of this element belonging 
 to the Division of the White-Sea Navigation). 
 
510 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II, 
 
 But the line of direction of this canal being 
 through a stony ground, though covered by a 
 morassy surface; 15,000 cubic fathoms in 
 extent in all its parts, with seventy sluices ; 
 the question is, whether the supposed advan- 
 tages accruing from this project would ever 
 repay the enormous expense attending its 
 execution ? 
 
 The Moumbasciia and Koum approximate the 
 Lake Flgh, so near, that a junction was at- 
 tempted ; but high mountains made it imprac- 
 ticable. 
 
 TheTzoBiNA, and Limsha; insignificant rivulets 
 of water. 
 
 Rivers falling into, or flowing towards, the 
 White Sea. 
 
 The Kema, full of cataracts and torrents, unfit 
 for navigation, but admitting different branches 
 of industry. 
 
 Vigh, issues from a small lake, situate not far 
 from that of Vodla : from beginning to end, it 
 is a torrent : it takes its course through a lake 
 of the same name, and empties itself into the 
 White Sea, by a multiplicity of dreadful cata- 
 racts, at the wharf of Snolca. Between the 
 Falls, the river is very deep, and sometimes, 
 for some versts, it does not appear to have 
 any current: from these seeming pools issue 
 the most tremendous shoots of water. The 
 
APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 511 
 
 estuary is insufficiently deep to admit ships 
 drawing ten feet at the lowest ebb. One 
 branch thereof forms a pretty safe harbour, 
 for at least a hundred vessels, of that de- 
 scription. It is to be observed, that the Lake 
 Figh, through which this river takes its course, 
 is the great receptacle of water in these parts, 
 from different rivers, issuing from small lakes 
 in its neighbourhood, and is interspersed with 
 a number of islands. The principal river 
 falling into the Figh, is, 
 
 The Sighish a, issuing from the Lake Sigh, 
 considerable of itself, and Less intersected by 
 cataracts than any in its vicinity. 
 
 The Souma, very inconsiderable, full of falls, 
 and not navigable : at its estuary is the wharf 
 of Soumsk, which frequently serves as a depot 
 for the tools and other necessaries for the 
 Admiralty of Archangel, brought thither from 
 St. Petersburg during the summer, by the 
 Lake of Onega, as far as Poventza, and thence 
 by the winter road to Soumsk, to be shipped 
 the next summer for Archangel: so that no 
 less than two years are spent in this con- 
 veyance. This place does not deserve the 
 name of a port, as, at low water, vessels of 
 the smallest burden are obliged to lie in an 
 open road, four versts off, which extent is 
 perfectly dry at low water. 
 
512 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 Twelve versts from the estuary of the Souma 
 are the Salines of Yalovitzhj : near these is a 
 small, but a safe cove. The Admiralty caused 
 a quay to be constructed ; where vessels may 
 ride in thirteen feet water, at the lowest ebb. 
 This spot is more eligible than the Souma, for a 
 depot of stores for Archangel. 
 
 The tides on the coast of the White Sea are 
 from five to seven feet. 
 
 Small Rivers falling into the White Sea. 
 
 The Kalesiiinka, Koughta, Ouneshma, 
 Sosnofka, Shounka, and the Nimenka, 
 are not navigated ; their estuaries have con- 
 siderable fisheries, serving as marine stations 
 for the port; the adjacent country being 
 impassable, in summer, for a considerable 
 distance from the coast, morasses and rocky 
 precipices intersecting it in every direction. 
 The River Onega forms a separate division o 
 inland navigation : its source is from the Lake 
 VI) d. In the great map of Russia this lake is 
 called the Vol, and in its course to the Lake 
 Latzi it is called Sved, and on crossing this 
 lake receives the appellation of Onega. It is 
 navigable to a small place, twenty versts below 
 Kargopol ; when, at this spot, torrents and 
 cataracts, near Marcomousa, can only be passed 
 in spring, during the high water then prevailing. 
 
appendix, n°ii. 
 
 513 
 
 During that season, some floats of timber, 
 and a number of vessels, called karbasy, with 
 about twenty or thirty barks, pass on to the 
 town of Onega. This navigation is decreasing 
 from year to year, and is, for the greatest 
 part, on account of Government. 
 
 In the River Onega fall the folloiving Springs. 
 
 The Voloksa (the Upper). A great quantity of 
 timber could be floated down this river; and 
 even during the high water in spring, vessels 
 could pass, though it is full of rapids and 
 stones : notwithstanding, thirty or forty vessels 
 pass it, of 300 to 400 pouds burden, with 
 dried fish. These vessels come from different 
 lakes, and go down by the Upper Fodla to 
 the Rivulet Tzerevia, up which they proceed 
 to the landing-place, from whence the vessels 
 and cargoes are carried by land five versts to 
 the Vo/oshkoe Lake ; through which they pro- 
 ceed to the Lake Ken, and by the river of the 
 same name to the Onega. 
 
 Mosha, the principal river of those falling into 
 the Onega : it is capable of being navigated, 
 did the climate permit the country to be cul- 
 tivated, or furnish the inhabitants with the 
 means of subsistence by any branch of in- 
 dustry. Down this river a vast quantity of 
 Listvenishno timber is floated, the adjacent 
 
 VOL. I. 2 L 
 
514 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 country abounding with this wood : it is 
 conveyed by water to Markamousa, and from 
 thence carried, by land, to the Shelehsa, by 
 which it goes down the Dvina to Archangel. 
 
 The Iksa, Sintuga, Kosha, Mituga, and 
 Kodena, are small rivulets, full of rapids 
 and stones. 
 
 Division of Inland Communication belonging to 
 the Northern Dvina. 
 
 The Dvina, one of the largest rivers in Europe, 
 with its different branches, is deserving of 
 particular attention. It is navigable, and a 
 great traffic is carried thereon, and the 
 streams that fall into it, to Archangel, the 
 only port in possession of Russia till the 
 eighteenth century. It empties itself into 
 the White Sea, by five different channels; 
 two of these only are navigable. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Dvina. 
 
 The Pinega: timber is floated down this river. 
 
 Vitzegda: into this river falls the Northern 
 Keltma, which it was intended to unite with 
 a southern river of the same name, that joins 
 the Kama. ( Vide “ The Section concerning 
 the navigation of the Volga .”) A Canal,. 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 515 
 
 proposed by General Souchtelen, was begun; 
 but the war put a stop to the work. At a 
 small expense, a new branch of navigation 
 would have been opened between the pro- 
 vinces of Perrnia, Viatka, &c. and Archangel ; 
 not only for the purposes of trade, but the 
 conveyance of timber for the Admiralty. 
 
 Vaga. Its source being from a morass, is 
 consequently little fit for navigation, but 
 some timber is floated on this river. 
 
 Uga, and Lower Souchona, two of the principal 
 branches of the Dvina : the latter is deserving 
 of principal consideration, as great quantities 
 of grain and other merchandize are trans- 
 ported by it to Archangel, from Vologda and 
 its neighbourhood. Its source is from the 
 Lake Koubenska, by means of which it is 
 intended to open a communication between 
 the Souchona and River Seleksa . 
 
 Division the Second, 
 
 Finland Waters. 
 
 The Neva. The advantages of this river have 
 already been described, as it opens a com- 
 munication between the Volga and the port 
 of St. Petersburg and Cronstadt. 
 
516 
 
 APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 Between St. Petersburg and Schlusselburg, 
 the following Streams fall into the Neva. 
 
 The Iosna, and Ishor: though inconsiderable, 
 small barks frequent them; also timber, and 
 wood for fuel, floated. 
 
 Ochta, not navigable. 
 
 Moika, and Iontalka, are canals dug through 
 the city of St. Petersburg, for the reception ot 
 some barks from Vyshney Foloshok. 
 
 Rivers on the Coast of Finland. 
 
 The Kumen is the outlet of the water from 
 numberless lakes in Finland ; it is not navi- 
 gable but at its estuary, where is now the 
 station of the galley fleet, or port of Rotsen- 
 zaime. 
 
 At the building of different fortifications on 
 the frontier, it was thought necessary to 
 make a communication by water between 
 the respective fortresses, to avoid passing the 
 line of demarcation by land, which they were 
 formerly obliged to do : for this purpose canals 
 were dug; through these, and some lakes, 
 a passage by water may be effected, round 
 the Swedish frontier, even as far as Nenschlot. 
 
 The Koutvalentaiskov, Koutvelentripol- 
 sicoy, Kafkinskoy, Koukotaipolskoy, and 
 Teletaipolskoy, flow in various directions. 
 
APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 . 51 7 
 
 and through different places, from tVilman- 
 slrand to Nenschlot. 
 
 Rivers on the Coast of Incermanland. 
 
 The Luga ; small, but in spring, during the high 
 water, vessels and floats of wood pass, from 
 the neighbourhood of the town of Luga, to 
 Narva. 
 
 Narova, is only navigable from the town of 
 Narva to its falling into the Gulph of Finland. 
 In the course of this river, from its source 
 at the extensive Lake of Peypus, to the town 
 of Narva, are such cataracts (one of which 
 is fourteen feet perpendicular) as will ever 
 render the navigation of this river absolutely 
 impracticable. From the Pima, barks and 
 timber are conveyed to the Narova, for the 
 port of Narva. This river is remarkable for 
 its great annual inundations in spring. The 
 Lake Pskof which is only a continuation of 
 the Lake Peypus, Tzudskoe, being one body 
 of water, is more remarkable for its fisheries 
 than the navigation carried thereon : some 
 barks, however, pass through it, from the 
 Cataracts of the Narova and the Embach, to 
 Pskof. Several rivers fall into it: the Velihaia 
 is the chief, as some barks pass through it 
 from the neighbourhood of Opotsha, during 
 its high water in spring. Its bottom is full 
 
518 
 
 APPENDIX, N» II. 
 
 of stones, and has many rapids and whirl- 
 pools. 
 
 The Vo flows from the Lake Vagoula near Ferro, 
 and falls into the Peypus, or Pskof Lake. It 
 is projected to unite the Lake Vagoula with 
 the Schwartzhach, by a branch of the River 
 Aa ( Gavia ), falling into the Baltic near Riga, 
 which would be of considerable advantage to 
 the trade of that port. 
 
 The Em bach falls also into Peypus. Many 
 vessels pass through it, from the vicinity of 
 the city of Dornat to Pernan : this river 
 
 joins the Lake Urief. Means are sought to 
 unite this river, by a canal, with Navat, a 
 principal branch of the Phinert, towards 
 Pernan. 
 
 Rivers on the Coast of Estonia and Livonia. 
 
 From the mouth of the Narova, to the port of 
 Pernan, only small rivulets are to be found, 
 full of water-falls. The Brihitma, near Reval, 
 Yasovala, Fena, Vighlerhach, &c. are the prin- 
 cipal, but only serve as watering-places for 
 the fleet, in time of war. 
 
 It was supposed practicable, in 1793, to join 
 the Finnere with the Embach by means of a 
 canal, and thereby open a communication 
 between the Lakes Virtz and the River 
 
APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 519 
 
 JVavast; and, consequently, with the Lake 
 Peypus, and the adjacent country, to Dorpat. 
 During the high water in spring, a considerable 
 number of vessels pass the Finnere, to the last- 
 mentioned port. 
 
 Were the projected plan of General De Witt 
 put into execution, to enable vessels to pass by 
 the Aa ( Gavia ), which empties itself into the 
 Baltic, not far from the estuary of the Southern 
 Dvina or China, an uninterrupted communication 
 between Riga and the Peypus would be esta- 
 blished. The canal necessary to be dug, is to 
 be of small extent, but the river itself requires 
 much labour to be made perfectly navigable. 
 The Rivulet Schwartzbach, having a firm bottom, 
 may be converted into a canal, with only one 
 sluice to join the Lake Vagoula: the River Vo, 
 necessary for this communication, requires 
 also to be cleared, and three or four sluices 
 built. This plan was proposed for execution 
 at private expense, but has not commenced. 
 Nor is it of immediate consequence, as already 
 great traffic may be carried on from the Peypus, 
 by the government of Pskof, through the Narova. 
 The advantage of a passage through the Schwartz - 
 bach would be great indeed, were it to lead to 
 an inland water communication between the 
 ports of St. Petersburg and Riga, to avoid going 
 by sea, particularly in time of war. 
 
APPENDIX, N* II. 
 
 The Southern Dvina, or Duna, being the chief 
 outlet into the Baltic, after the Neva, from all 
 the interior provinces as far south as Kiof, for 
 the exportation of their products, forms a sepa- 
 rate division of inland navigation. This river is 
 navigable to the town of Sourash. About one 
 thousand barks, with goods, frequent it annually, 
 besides a great number of rafts for timber and 
 mast wood. This traffic is likely to continue, 
 notwithstanding the great difficulty and ex- 
 penses attending the navigation of the river, 
 which, from the very town of Drisno, is filled 
 with stones, some under water, some projecting 
 above it. All possible means were adopted to 
 deepen and widen the channel, which, at the 
 estuary, is also subject to be choked up, by 
 moving bodies of sand. It was supposed, that 
 by increasing the natural current or stream of 
 the river (or increasing the rapidity), by nar- 
 rowing it with dykes or dams, these bars to 
 navigation would have been removed ; but the 
 execution of this plan proved not only abortive, 
 but very pernicious, as it caused an inundation 
 which threatened with destruction the low 
 country about Riga: this was only saved by 
 the undermining or washing away of the dykes, 
 and the stream making itself a new channel, or 
 outlet, at a hollow road called the Duna-ravin. 
 After the stream had taken this new course, it 
 
APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 521 
 
 was supposed, that, as only one sand-bank, 
 of 150 feet in extent, with seven feet water, 
 remained, and obstructed the passage of ships 
 drawing six feet, it might be deepened, par- 
 ticularly during the winter, by working on the 
 ice with certain machines in use at Plymouth 
 (dr agues). This work could not, at any rate, 
 be executed in less than ten years ; and from 
 the constant accumulation of sand, must ever 
 be continued, as at the River Charante in France. 
 There is a road for ships, five versts from the 
 estuary of the Dvina, at Dunamund, with four- 
 teen feet water, and fit for ships drawing thirteen 
 feet; but its situation will not admit of any 
 amelioration, whatever safe, artificial haven or 
 port might be constructed on the left shore, 
 both for men-of-war and merchant ships; but 
 an enterprise so stupendous has hardly ever 
 been attempted; and it would require such 
 immense sums, that the Board has resolved 
 not to enter upon it, nor attempt deepening 
 the passage at the Damba. 
 
 The following Rivers fall into the Southern Dvina 
 or Duna. 
 
 The Buldera, which joins it at the fortress 
 of Dunamund. Vessels navigate this river, 
 passing Milan as far as Bansk, near which it 
 divides itself into two branches ; the one 
 
522 
 
 Appendix, n, li. 
 
 called Monsha, the other Lavenna. Both 
 branches have falls and rapids, but are 
 capable of improvement, particularly the 
 Lavenna, and might be easily made navi- 
 gable : the last is to be joined with the River 
 Niemen, by means of a canal of ten versts, 
 and the River Nevegia. By this new water 
 conveyance, articles of trade, and necessaries 
 of life, may be directly carried to Riga from 
 the fruitful provinces of Poland, instead of 
 being, as now is the case, transported to 
 Merriel and Konigsburg, and there sold at low 
 prices: of which more hereafter, when the 
 River Niemen is treated of. The navigation 
 of the Bludera deserves even now some at- 
 tention, in consideration of the timber floated 
 down to Riga for exportation. 
 
 The Yavghel, two branches of the same name, 
 unite with the lake so called, which empties 
 itself, by a large natural canal, ( Stin-sea , or 
 lake), near the estuary of the Dvina. Another 
 small river joins the Stin-sea with the Verga- 
 sea, which could be united with the River Aa 
 by a canal of some few versts : by this a new 
 water conveyance would be opened with the 
 Lake Peypus, and the government of Pshof. 
 Some articles, such as provisions, charcoal, 
 wood for fuel, See. are carried to Riga, by 
 this river. 
 
APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 523 
 
 The Oghera, full of stones, is not capable of 
 any improvement. 
 
 The Perz a, equally stony with the foregoing, and 
 not to be made navigable without great expense. 
 
 Yefcet is a considerable river, and might be 
 navigated during high and middle water, 
 were some stones removed, and cataracts 
 improved : this plan is now in contemplation. 
 
 Driza. During high water, in spring, some 
 wood, for fuel, is floated down this river. 
 
 Drizna has its soui'ce in some morasses in 
 Livonia, is full of stones, and of no use 
 whatsoever. 
 
 Polatska is totally unnavigable ; and, even if 
 improved at great expense, could never 
 benefit trade. 
 
 Oulla has for a long time been frequented-; 
 thirty large barks go down from the town of 
 Leppelaz ; timber and mast- wood is floated 
 down, which were towed up the River 
 Beresen (belonging to the Dnieper Division) 
 as far as the Lake Beta, from whence they 
 were transported by land to the Yessa : this 
 falls into the Lake Belo, below the Leppel, 
 whence the Oulla has its source. Upon exa- 
 mination, after taking possession of Lithuania, 
 near the spot where the land-carriage was 
 made, it appeared practicable to effect a 
 communication by water between the Lake 
 
.524 
 
 APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 Plavio, the source of the Rivulet Cergontza 
 which falls into the Beresen, and the Lake 
 Bereshta, the source of another rivulet of the 
 same name, which fells into the River Yessa, 
 ten versts above Leppel. For this purpose it 
 was necessary to dig a canal of eight versts, 
 with four sluices, and to make circuitous 
 cuts in some parts of the Rivers Cerguza and 
 Bereshlh, the first of seven versts, and three 
 sluices ; and on the Bereshte, two versts, and 
 two sluices. On the Onlla itself it is neces- 
 sary to build four sluices, and clean the bed 
 of the river: all this is begun; and in 1805, 
 it is supposed, it will be completed. By this 
 track, a water communication will be opened 
 between the Black Sea and the Baltic; and 
 the conveyance of the products, not only of 
 the province of Minsk, but of White and Little 
 Russia, and the Polish Ukraine, to Riga, will 
 be facilitated. Another plan was proposed, 
 to unite the above-mentioned seas, by means 
 of the Upper Dvina (Duna), in the neighbour- 
 hood of the town Babinovitzey , with the Upper 
 Dnieper; but, independent of the extraor- 
 dinary labour, it appeared that there was 
 an insufficiency of water. 
 
 The Oiiole. Some wood and provisions are 
 conveyed down this river in spring, during 
 high water. 
 
APPENDIX, N* II. 
 
 525 
 
 The Ousiistka. This stream was, by a former 
 plan, intended to form the means of commu- 
 nication between the Dvina and the Lovata, 
 falling into the Lake Ilmen , as a new track 
 by water from IFhite Russia. On the execu- 
 tion of the plan projected to unite the Dnieper 
 and the Southern Dvina about Babinovitzey, 
 the conveyance by water may be extended 
 even to St. Petersburg, from Little Russia, See.; 
 and the same track may open a water com- 
 munication between the last-mentioned city 
 and Riga : for this purpose it was intended 
 to dig a canal along the Oushstka (which is too 
 shallow), from its source at the Lake Oushstka ; 
 this was to serve as the principal point 
 of separation, or common reservoir to the 
 River Pola, at the village Vlaslcova, and 
 thence to Veliky Lughy ; but it is not decided 
 whether the above lake is sufficiently stored 
 with water for so extensive a communication : 
 at all events, the advantages that are to be 
 expected from this project are such as deserve 
 the greatest attention and examination, as to 
 the practicability of execution, at any expense 
 whatsoever. 
 
 \ 
 
 Rivers in Courland. 
 
 Most rivers in this province are insignificant ; 
 
526 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 
 
 hardly navigable; full of Falls; and at times 
 
 quite dry. 
 
 The Irba, quite useless, has its source from a 
 considerable lake, called Lestmesha. 
 
 The Vinda, more considerable, has its source 
 in Lithuania, but is only navigable to the 
 town of Goldingen, where great waterfalls bar 
 all passage. During the reign of the native 
 Dukes, a junction of this river with the 
 Niemen was meditated, but these cataracts 
 were found to be insuperable obstacles. 
 The port of Vinduf is at its estuary; the 
 trade there is considerable, and has much 
 increased since the entrance thereof has been 
 made more convenient. 
 
 Luba, an insignificant rivulet, falls into the 
 Bobchoe Lake, adjoining the Baltic, on which 
 is situate the port of Liban, of considerable 
 trade. 
 
 Herlighen, Aa ; unnoticed, and serves only 
 as the boundary between Russia and Prussia. 
 
 Division of Communication by the Niemen, 
 
 The Niemen (the Memel of the Germans), one 
 of the most interesting rivers of European 
 Russia. By means of this river the most 
 lucrative trade is carried on, in the products 
 
/ 
 
 APPENDIX, N° II. 52 7 
 
 of all Lithuania, and part of Volhynia : on 
 finishing the Oginsky Canal, it will become 
 the chief track of conveyance for those of 
 the Ukraine, and all the other provinces near 
 the Euxine, to the Baltic. Unfortunately, the 
 trade thereon takes its course to foreign 
 ports, greatly to the disadvantage of the 
 native merchants. To Memel, situate at its 
 estuary, a quantity of timber, mostly for 
 ship building, to the amount of some millions, 
 is annually floated down ; as well as some 
 hundreds of barks, with grain, hemp, flax, 
 wax, potash, & c. A trade of equal amount 
 is carried on with Konigsburg, by the way of 
 Fredericsgraben. By opening water commu- 
 nication, by means of a canal, between the 
 River Nevegia, falling into the Niemen, and 
 the Lavenna, which flows into the Dvina, 
 this lucrative commerce would revert to 
 Riga, and the traders be exonerated from 
 the impositions they suffer from dealing with 
 foreign merchants, who fix the prices at their 
 sole will and pleasure; and, consequently, 
 advantages might accrue even from dealing 
 with the same foreign commissioners, in a 
 port belonging to their own country. Besides 
 the timber floated down the Niemen, from 
 five to six hundred large barks frequent it 
 annually, most of which return home with 
 
528 
 
 APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 foreign merchandize. This river will admit 
 of the navigation of galliots, and other masted 
 vessels, to the Falls of Kofno. 
 
 Although the Niemen has been frequented 
 for some centuries, it does not appear that 
 any effectual measures were ever taken to 
 improve its navigation. At the upper part it 
 has sandy shallows ; in the middle are Falls. 
 In the reign of the last King of Poland, the 
 cataracts were attempted to be cleared ; but 
 the work was carried on so unscientifically, as 
 to produce no effect. In general, the Niemen 
 is capable of improvement, at a small expense. 
 The establishing of towing-paths is now the 
 chief object for the return of vessels, inde- 
 pendent of Kofno. There are three other 
 great wharfs on this river, viz. Grodno, Mosty, 
 and Stolbtzy. 
 
 Rivers belonging to the Niemen Division of 
 Inland Navigation. 
 
 The Nova. Only a little wood is floated down 
 this river. 
 
 Du6itza. Some barks frequent it, though it 
 is not much larger than the Nova. It was 
 intended to join it with Vindaf; but cataracts 
 at Goldingen, and other obstacles in digging 
 the canal, frustrated the project. 
 
529 
 
 APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 Nevegia. As before mentioned, this river is 
 to be the new track, or the means of joining 
 the Niemen and the port of Riga. Its lower 
 part is already so navigable as to admit of 
 ships and galliots frequenting the sea, but 
 only as far as the town of Koydany : from 
 this place it becomes so rapid, that sluices 
 must be had recourse to, if the projected 
 junction of the Dvina and Niemen is to take 
 place. Of this new track, mention was already 
 made, under the article of the river Buldera. 
 
 The Vilia, another great branch of the Niemen: 
 about a hundred barks frequent it annually, 
 principally with provisions. The rivulets 
 Svitonsha and Simiana fall into it ; through 
 these, in spring, some vessels and floats of 
 timber are conveyed. 
 
 MERETZINKA,theLEBEDlNKA,andBERESINKA, 
 
 totally unfit for navigation ; and even if ren- 
 dered in some degree so, would never repay* 
 the expense. 
 
 S harr a is, of all the branches of the Niemen , 
 the most favourable for extending the navi- 
 gation. By means of the Oginsky Canal, a 
 communication will be opened through it, 
 with the rivers Yatzold, Pripit, and the Dnieper ; 
 , and, consequently, a new track of water 
 communication established with the Baltic, 
 from the Ukraine , Little Russia, Volhynia, and 
 
 VOL. i. “2 M 
 
530 
 
 APPENDIX, N“ II. 
 
 Podolia. This work is of the highest import- 
 ance in its consequences, as it will enable the 
 inhabitants of these fruitful provinces to dis- 
 pose of their products, which till now they 
 have not had the means to do; and which 
 circumstance has plunged them into that 
 inertness of character, for which they are 
 remarkable. The junction of these rivers 
 will greatly facilitate the supply necessary 
 for the Government depots of warlike stores 
 on the frontier, from the Baltic to the very 
 Dniester. The Sharra is already, in some 
 places, tolerably navigable ; to wit, from the 
 town of Slonima, to its estuary in the Niemen. 
 From Stonima upward, to the Canal of Oginshy , 
 improvement is necessary : above the canal, 
 the river is absorbed in the vast morasses 
 of that country. 
 
 To the Division of the Baltic Inland Navi- 
 gation belongs the Western Bugg, or Bog, as 
 the chief branch of the Upper Vistula. Middle- 
 sized barks, conducted by Podolians, and by the 
 inhabitants of the Southern Galicia, go through 
 the Bog to the Vistula, and thence to Dantzic, 
 where they sell their merchandize at a little 
 profit, and provide themselves with foreign 
 necessaries, viz. salt, some oil, sugar, &c. for 
 their return home. Inconvenient and circuitous 
 as this track is, the amount of the trade is no 
 
APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 531 
 
 less than four millions annually ; this is carried 
 on from the wharfs situate in Russia ; viz. 
 Ustilook, Kritnitz, Kladnef, Bengugh, Lilho, Brest, 
 and Opalin. The customs are collected at Brest. 
 Without doubt this traffic may be improved; 
 but the question is, Whether it is advantageous 
 to the Russian Crown and to its subjects ? It is 
 difficult to prove that it is, as all the profits 
 remain with the Elbing and Dantzic merchants. 
 The only advantage accruing to the native seller 
 is, that he has the opportunity of procuring 
 foreign returns in kind, for his own products; 
 but he never goes back with money. The mer- 
 chandize thus procured, he cannot otherwise 
 dispose of at home, but by barter for domestic 
 products, with which he is again forced to go to 
 Dantzic, to be disposed of there in the same 
 manner as before. 
 
 Rivers falling into the Buco or Bog, from the 
 Russian side. 
 
 The Muchavitza falls into the Bog at Lillian 
 Brest, and is the only one worth notice, inas- 
 much as this river serves for a part of the 
 canal proposed to be dug by the late King 
 Stanislaus Augustus, to join the Pina, one of 
 the chief branches of the Pripit (belonging 
 to the Dnieper division), with the Bog ; 
 whereby a new track of water commit- 
 
532 
 
 APPENDIX, N" II. 
 
 nication would be opened between the 
 Dnieper, or the Black Sea, and the Baltic. 
 If the Oginsky Canal opened a communi- 
 cation, 'by the Niemen, to Konigsburg and 
 Memel, so the Muchavitzkoy, or the King's 
 Canal, would have been of infinite more 
 advantage to the then existing Republic; 
 as the same convenient mode of conveyance 
 would have been extended through the 
 Vistula to Warsaw, and from thence to Elbing 
 and Dantzic. This canal was already finished, 
 and the upper parts of the Pina and 
 Muchavitza rendered navigable ; but it then 
 appeared that the whole was effected upon 
 wrong principles; first, sluices were thought 
 necessary; and, secondly, no proper exami- 
 nation or levelling had been made of the 
 country, in the line of direction of the pas- 
 sage, which was principally through low 
 and marshy ground, wherein it was supposed 
 the water would accumulate, to the proper 
 height; but it was found, that the water 
 from these morasses, the sources of the 
 Muchavitza, (or rather a branch thereof, 
 Mochalovla,) has a descent, or fall, of thirty- 
 seven feet to the Pina. It was evident, 
 therefore, that, without the help of sluices, 
 this canal would rather be the means of 
 drying or draining the morasses, than of any 
 
533 
 
 APPENDli, N" II. 
 
 other use, as it contains water only in the 
 spring ; therefore the barks that profited by 
 this season, to go up the Pripit, could never 
 return the same track: in July the canal is 
 perfectly dry. To make this canal of use, 
 the erection of nine or ten sluices is abso- 
 lutely necessary : particularly to answer 
 
 certain military frontier purposes. 
 
 END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 
 Printed by R. Watts, 
 
 Crown Court , Temple Bur • 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 ■ • ; 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
450 * 
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTE 
 
 to p. 61. 
 
 “ Kirgissians; a people yet unknown .”3 — The author 
 has mentioned the circumstance of his having resided beneath 
 the same roof with a party of Kirgissians , in an inn at Moscow; 
 and he has also stated, that very little is known of this 
 people. They call themselves “ Sara Kaisaki," or “ Cossacks 
 of the Desert.” Their antient history is so obscure, that even 
 their name, and the existence of their race, were unheard in 
 Europe before the cession of Siberia to the Russians by Jermak 
 (or, as it is pronounced, Yermah), the Cossack hero, in 1581*. 
 The Kirgissians fell under the Russian yoke in 1606, and from 
 that period they have rendered themselves conspicuous by 
 their frequent revolts -t - . In 1613, they were vanquished by 
 the Calmucks. From immemorial time, they have been divided 
 into three separate hordes, or Clans; and these leading brandies 
 admit also of subdivisions. Their Chiefs, or Nobles, are 
 distinguished into three classes; bearing the several titles of 
 Ghodscha, Rib, and Saltan. The first consists of families 
 renowned for their antiquity only ; the second, of those families 
 which, as princes, have had Saltans, or famous warriors, for 
 their ancestors. For the rest, their history, owing to the mili- 
 tary spirit of the people, and to that contempt of labour which 
 
 * See Chap. XIII. p. 376, of this volume. Also Storch’s Tableau rle la 
 Russia, tom. I. p. 76. Basle, 1800. See also Muller's Description Ue 
 Joules les Nations, Sec. Petersburg, 1776. p. 138. 
 f Muller, p. IS 9. 
 
ADDITIONAL NOTE. 
 
 characterizes even the lowest of their commoners, much 
 resembles the history of the Scottish Highlanders. The 
 Kirgissians may be considered as Highlanders on horseback. 
 Nearly the same threefold division into orders distinguished 
 the Highland Clans; and the same remarkable superstitions 
 still exist among these widely-separated nations. The 
 author saw a Kirgissian, in Moscow, when about to 
 depart into his own country, busied in divination, by 
 examining the marks upon the blade-lone of a sheep, which 
 had been blackened in the fire : and he remembered, at 
 the time, that such a mode of divination existed in some 
 country that he had visited; but not recollecting where he 
 had observed it, he omitted to mention the fact; deeming it 
 to be too trivial a circumstance to be noticed of itself. Having 
 however recently read an account of this mode of divination 
 as practised in the Highlands of Scotland* (where he now 
 remembers having seen it), and also in the country of the 
 AJ'ghauns, he has thought it right to introduce this Additional 
 Note . 
 
 * See the interesting Article on the “ Cullnden Papers," as inserted in 
 No. XXVIII. of the Quarterly ^Review, published in May 1816. “The 
 JJ'ghaun' s most ordinary mode of divination,” observes the writer of that 
 article, “ is by examining the marks in the blade-bone of a sheep, held up 
 to the light : and even so the Rev. Mr. Robert Kirk assures us, that in his 
 time, the end of the sixteenth century, the Seers prognosticate many future 
 events (only for a month’s space) from the shoulder-bone of a sheep, on 
 which a knife never came.”