LIBRARY ANNEX 2 g)tate College of Agriculture at CorncU ©ntbersitp atUaca, la. g. 1Li6rarj» Cornell University Library SB 413.D12J15 Daffodils. With eight colored plates. 3 1924 002 838 435 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002838435 EDITED BY R. HOOPER PEARSON MANAGING EDITOR OF THE GARDENERS CHRONICLE A LIST OF VOLUMES IN THE SERIES IS GIVEN ON THE NEXT PAGE T^resent-Day Gardening List of Volumes in the Series. 1. SWEET PEAS. By Horace J. Wright, late Secre- tary and Chairman of the National Sweet Pea Society. With Chapter on "Sweet Peas for Exhibition" by ThOS. Stevenson. 2. PANSIES, VIOLAS, AND VIOLETS. By William CuTHBERTSoN, J. P., and R. Hooper Pearson. 3. ROOT AND STEM VEGETABLES. By Alexander Dean, V.M.H., Chairman of the National Vegetable Society. 4. DAFFODILS. By the Rev. J. Jacob, Secretary of the Midland Daffodil Society, with Preface by the Rev. W. WiLKs, M.A., Secretary of tlie Royal Horticultural Society. 5. ORCHIDS. By James O'Brien, V.M.H., Secretary of the Orchid Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society. 6. CARNATIONS AND PINKS. By T. H. Cook, Head Gardener to Queen Alexandra at Sandringham ; James Douglas, V.M.H. ; and J. F. M'Leod, Head Gardener to Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan. 7. RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS. (The first popular volume published on this subject.) By William Watson, A. L. S. , Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, with Preface by Sir Fred. W. Moore, M.A., A.L.S., V.M.H. 8. LILIES. By A. Grove, F.L.S., with Preface by H. J. Elwes, F.R.S. 9. APPLES AND PEARS. By George Bunyard, V.M.H., Chairman of Fruit and Vegetable Committee of Royal Horticultural Society. 10. ROSES. By H. R. Darlington, Vice-President of National Rose Society. (Double volume.) 11. IRISES. By W. Rickatson Dykes, M.A., L.-^s-L. With Preface by Professor I. Bavley Balfour, D.Sc, F.R.S., ii'c. 12. ANNUALS, HARDY AND HALF-HARDY. By C. H. Curtis,' Hon. Sec. of the National Sweet Pea Society, 13. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. By Thomas Stevenson, with chapters by C. Harman Payne and Charles E. Shea. 14. TULIPS. By the Rev. J. Jacob. 15. THE ROCK GARDEN. By Reginald Farrer, Author of "Among the Hills," "My Rock Garden," "In a Yorkshire Garden," (Sr'c. These will be followed by volumes on Dahlias, Climbers, Trees and Shrubs, Paeonies, Primulas, Window Gar- dens, Cucumbers, Melons, Bedding Plants, Hardy Herbaceous Plants, Ferns, Tomatoes, Bulbous Plants, Peaches and Nectarines, Vines, Stove and Greenhouse Plants, &c. (By'RsvJOjSGpfx Jaeon PREFACE BY THE REV. W. WILKS, M. A., SECRETARY TO THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY PLATE I (^Frontispiece) Elegance. Gloria Mundi. PREFACE In the year 1879 I set myself to collect all the varieties of Daffodils I could get through the ordinary trade sources, and I have been a consistent, but by no means fanatical, grower of them ever since ; and it is highly interesting to look at my old lists, containing little more than, if as many as, fifty really distinct varieties, and compare them with the list put forth recently by the Daffodil Committee of the R.H.S. with its nearly 2500 names ! One feels inclined to exclaim, Magnus est Narcissus et prcevalebit. But will it continue to prevail ? I answer, " No, it won't " ; and, " Yes, it will." That is to say, the present truly ridiculous prices of ^^30, £40, and ^50 a bulb cannot in the nature of things continue to prevail. Amateurs are already satiated with the multiplicity of extravagantly priced varieties, and professional hybridisers will cease to rise to. such investment of their hard-earned pounds when they once begin to doubt the willingness of amateurs to pay proportionally for their new productions. I venture, there- fore, to prophesy a somewhat rapid decline in prices. Amateurs, moreover, are beginning to doubt whether, after all, the new varieties do exceed some of the older ones in actual beauty — and if in beauty, whether in constitution vlli PREFACE also ? Is there anything in the same line which so greatly exceeds the old, old, Gloria Mundi ? Is there anything for general garden and decorative purposes so greatly in advance of Emperor, Empress, Horsfieldi, Barri Con- spicuus, J. B. M. Camm (still almost if not quite, to my mind, the most inherently beautiful of all trumpet Daffs.), Madame de Graaff, Baroness Heath, and such like ; or — to advance a decade or so — King Alfred, White Queen, Lady Margaret Boscawen, Weardale Perfection, Golden Bell, Victoria, all of which may be had for less than one of the new, and very doubtfully superior, introductions ? There is one section, however, in which I must freely admit the real merits of the very latest aspirants for popular favour, and that is amongst the Poeticus section. Here, thanks almost entirely to Mr. Engleheart, the improvement has been, and still is, very marked. He has given us varieties blooming all through the season, and filling in what used to be the terrible gap between Ornatus and Recurvus — a gap only made the more noticeable in my early days by the one or two weakly constitutioned plants which professed to fill it. He has given us, too, flowers with good stiff petals, full of substance, and able to maintain a really flat appearance. But even in this section I doubt if much further advance is now either possible or wanted. But from another point of view the cult of Narcissus is, I think, bound to continue and expand. There is no other flower that at all aspires to take its place, or even to approach it in its season, for beauty and general utility — it is so cheap and so easily grown, it blooms so early as PREFACE ix the harbinger of spring, it travels so well, and it keeps fresh so long in water. There are few if any flowers which combine so many advantages and in so eminently satis- factory a manner. Its cultivation, therefore — that is, of the less costly and good-constitutioned varieties — is bound to increase and to extend until there will not be a garden in the land that has not a little patch devoted to Daffodil, the king of all early hardy flowers. W. WILKS. CONTENTS PAGB Introduction i CHAP. I. The Daffodil in Books . . . i . . 5 II. History 13 III. Botany and Physiology 16 IV. Cultivation 20 V. Changing Bulbs from one Garden to Another 31 VI. Propagation 34 VII. Raising New Varieties by Cross- Breeding . . 38 VIII. Enemies, Diseases, Poisons 50 IX. Classification 56 X. R.H.S. Classifications 64 XI. Varieties Illustrated in Present Volume . . 67 XII. Lists for Different Purposes . . . .7° XIII. Daffodils Exhibited on March 8 and 9, 1910 . 92 XIV. Daffodil Shows 96 XV. Calendar of Operations loi XVI. Addendum lo? LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PLATE I. Elegance — Gloria Mundi II, Orient — Jaune a Merveille III. Tom Hood — Horace IV. Circlet — Firebrand . V. Triandrus Hybrids . VI. Lord Roberts — Judge Bird VII. Christalla — Homespun , VIII. Charles — Cossack . Frontispiece PAGE 8 24 40 58 74 88 !!« DAFFODILS AND NARCISSI INTRODUCTION In present-day gardening the Daffodil holds a position of its own among the flowers of spring. Not that it is a new-comer or a new occupant of our gardens — far from it. The poets of ancient Greece and Rome sang its praises two thousand years ago ; the bunch-flowered form (A^. Tazetta) was in all probability cultivated in Egypt a hundred years and more before the birth of Christ, and it was used then, as it is to-day, in funeral ceremonies. The poets, too, of our own land, in one unbroken succession, have weaved into their poems thoughts which it has suggested. Spenser and Drayton, Shakespeare and Herrick, Milton and Addi- son, Thomson and Wordsworth, Keats and Tennyson, are household words among English-speaking people, and each in turn has been touched by the plaintive tale associated with its fabled origin or by " its own dear loveliness " (Shelley). Botanists have studied its idiosyncrasies from the days of William Turner, the father of British Botany, who lived in the troubled days of the sixteenth century, down through the days of the great Ray until those of Herbert and Haworth, and then from these to those of our own con- temporaries, Burbidge and Baker. A 2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Gardeners have loved it, and sought to enrich their own particular plots of ground with its varied forms. John Parkinson (1629), Philip Miller (1730), EUacombe of Bitton and Kent of Bath (more than a century later), are among those who will always be in a peculiar manner associated with its early culture. At the same time it is a new flower, inasmuch as the lovely forms which are now the commonplaces of the garden and the show table were undreamed of even fifty or sixty years ago. One has only to remember that in Glenny's Properties of Flowers and Plants no other Narcissus or Daffodil is thought worthy of mention but the Tazetta or " Polyanthus." The last and by far the most interesting stage in the life-history of the Daffodil began in the 'forties, when Dean Herbert of Manchester, in order to find out which varieties he should class as natural species, crossed for his own satis- faction "a trumpet with a poet" and produced a flower (incomparabilis) intermediate between the two. Then came the days of Backhouse and Leeds, who in their leisure hours busied themselves with hybridising and raising seedlings, with the result that pretty well all the first generation of new and beautiful garden forms were their seedlings. One wonders what might have been the fate of these early, garden-raised seedlings had not they been taken in hand by Peter Barr, and through his instrumentality dis- tributed to the garden world. Peter Barr, in no figurative sense, made the Daffodil. He travelled for it ; he worked for it ; he classified it (Florist and Pomologist, June, July, and August 1884) ; he advertised it. The " King," as we like to call him, lived long, and before he died (1909) he INTRODUCTION 3 saw, as he told us when he visited the Birmingham show last year, a race of new Daffodils appear "which to a certain extent . . . had wiped out the whole of Mr. Leeds's seedlings and a large portion of Mr. Backhouse's." These new-comers are almost like the sands of the sea- shore in number. They have come from North and South and East and West. They have been raised not only in our own islands but in lands beyond the sea. They are an increasing company. Every spring adds to their numbers. Here again one name stands out alone. George Herbert Engleheart may well be styled the Father of the Modern Daffodil. Inheriting the scientific instincts of his ancestor Dean Herbert, and, being attracted to the Daffodil as a flower when he was Vicar of Chute Forest in the early 'eighties, he began that wonderful work which has earned for his name an enduring place among the florists of the world. As the Sweet Pea has its Eckford and the Hyacinth its Voorhelm {Traite des Jacinthes, p. 6 ; Avignon, 1759), so the Narcissus has its Engleheart. Others have followed in his footsteps, and many and beautiful are the flowers that have come from the Williamses, from de Graaff, Haydon, Barr & Sons, Crosfield, Worsley, Copeland, Cave, Mrs. R. O. Backhouse, and from other raisers too numerous to mention individually ; but it must be remem- bered that their successes have been obtained from flowers that Engleheart gave them to work upon. The quest of the perfect Daffodil continually inspires fresh adventurers in the search for the unknown. Every year the number of seedling-raisers grows larger and larger. Only at Brecon show this year, I was asked to give a few hints during the afternoon on the raising 4 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING of seedlings, as some members of the Society were anxious to make a start. It was a " sign of the times." Regarding the pleasure to be obtained from raising and showing one's own seedlings, I will quote a remarkable para- graph from one of Mr. E. M, Crosfield's letters in which he said : " I always thought a real good shoot or a good salmon river, with plenty of water in it, about the top of the tree for enjoyment, but I am beginning to think that I look forward to my visit to the Birmingham Daffodil Show more than anything in the year " (R. Sydenham's pamphlet for 1908, How I came to grow Bulbs, p. 67). CHAPTER I THE DAFFODIL IN BOOKS The ordinary bibliography is for the general reader, as a rule, but a collection of " dry bones " ; partly because most of the books mentioned are only names and convey no particular significance, and partly because very many are quite outside his reach even if he wished to consult them. Yet an old-fashioned name by which gardeners and florists were often known in the days of the seventeenth and eight- eenth centuries suggests to me the appropriateness of includ- ing a chapter on " The Daffodil in Books " in the present volume. The "curious" are still with us, and if we think of •the word in rather a different sense from Morin, a French author, who in 1672 addressed his preface to " Aux Curieux des P^leurs," or from John Cowell of Hoxton, who wrote a book in 1730 and gave it as its title The Curious and Pro- fitable Gardener, it will remind us that gardeners who love the Daffodil will like to know something of the books that contain its history. Instead, however, of giving a list of all the works in which valuable information or figures of Daffodils or Nar- cissi may be found, I propose to pick out a few repre- sentative ones and to try in a very few words to describe them and their bearing on our flower. I would refer those who want a comprehensive volume to The Narcissus, by 6 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Burbidge and Baker (L. Reeve & Co., 1875) ; and for a list of Daffodil literature, to The Florists' Bibliography, by C. Harman Payne (Wesley & Son, 1908). Taking some of the principal works in chronological order, I will begin with Gerard's Herbal. John Gerard was a celebrated doctor and gardener who lived at the end of the sixteenth century. He resided in Holborn, where he had a Physic Garden " probably exceeding in the number and varieties of its products any then in England." He was at the same time the superintendent of the great Lord Bur- leigh's extensive collection of plants, and was honoured with his friendship. Accordingly, Gerard possessed unrivalled opportunities of becoming familiar with the best-known plants of his time, and the list which he gives in his Herbal, published in 1597, ™3-y ^^ taken to be fairly representative of those most frequently met with in English gardens at that day. Daffodils (single and double). Narcissi and Poly- anthus Narcissi, are all figured. The next book to mention is John Parkinson's big folio Paradisi in sole Paradisus terrestris, which was the largest book on gardening then pub- lished in England. Up to the time of this publication in 1629, the object of most of the authors who published lists or histories of plants was connected with medicine rather than horticulture. They were, in fact, primarily " Herbals." Parkinson was by profession an apothecary, and "so emi- nent as to act in that capacity to James the First," but he was also a very distinguished botanist and gardener. The somewhat obscure title which he gave to his great work was one which was strictly in accordance with the spirit of the age, ind meant, in English, Park-in-son's Earthly Para- dise. It is a play upon his own name in " dog " Latin. The DAFFODIL IN EARLY BOOKS 7 peculiar interest of the book for ourselves is the large number of varieties, nearly one hundred, which he includes in his long list, and the quaint remarks and descriptions which he gives. Just as to-day, there seems to have been a good deal of confusion about the names, and the modern difficulty of determining where an Engleheartii begins and where a Burbidgei ends had its counterpart then in the question of what was a Narcissus and what a Pseudo- Narcissus. Flora, or a Complete Florilege, by John Rea, who was a " florist " of much renown and published this work in 1665, is remarkable for the hint that he gives about gathering and sowing seed. " If any desire to sow the seeds of Daffodils, in hope to raise some new varieties, those of the Nonpareil, the great Spanish Yellow, the Spanish whites, the great Jonquilia, and the bastard kind, are the aptest to bring good seeds and the likeliest to yield diversities ; they may be sowed in September and not removed of three years, and then in June taken up, and presently set again in good ground at wider distances, where they may stand until you may see what flowers they will bear, and then disposed as they shall deserve." One wonders if this advice was ever acted upon, and if it was acted upon, what became of the flowers so produced. There must have been some varia- tions, and it may be supposed that some were improvements on the older flowers. We now pass over some sixty years and come to the days of the man who was certainly one of the very greatest gardeners that England, or probably the world, has ever produced, namely, Philip Miller — Hortulanorum princeps, as his contemporaries were wont to call him. His 8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Gardeners' Dictionary, first published in 1724, went through many editions, and was translated into Dutch, German, and French. Under the head of Narcissus in my copy of the work, which is the second edition, dated 1733, he devoted about seven and a half columns to the enumeration of the different varieties and a description of their propagation and cultivation. This is noteworthy, as the Tulip has only nine and a half columns assigned to it. The raising of new varieties from seed must have been a common practice in those days in Holland and Flanders, for he says that gardeners there " continually procure some new varieties, which recompenses them for their trouble and expense. But in England there are very few persons who have patience to propagate any of these flowers that way." His cultural directions are capital, and might be read with advantage by any one embarking on Daffodil growing at the present time. Years slipped away, and the Narcissus in different forms must have continued to be an occupant of our gardens and to be imported yearly from Holland for growing in glasses or pots, until Dean Herbert, in his studies of hybrids, in- cluded amongst other plants those of this family. Many of his surmises proved correct. His general ideas on the subject of hybrids may be gleaned from his Amaryl- lidacem, a learned treatise published in 1837, and the result of one of his crosses (a trumpet variety with poeticus) may be seen in a coloured picture bound up with his monograph on the Croci and now to be seen in the Lindley library at Vincent Square. Herbert's work is of great importance, in that it seems to have been the means of inspiring William Backhouse of Darlington and Edward Leeds of Manchester PLATE II Orient. (Poetaz.) Jaune a Merveillk. (Poetaz.) DAFFODIL IN MODERN BOOKS ii with a determination to experiment with different crosses in order to see if it were possible to improve the family. From Herbert we come to Baker and Burbidge, who gave us their monumental work on the Narcissus in 1875. It contains what I believe is the latest botanical classification of the genus, as well as many historical and cultural notes. It is a book that every student of this interesting family should have in his library. Volume xii., Part 2 (July 1890), of the Royal Horti- cultural Society's Journal is often referred to by Daffodil growers because it contains a full report of the Daffodil Conference held at Chiswick on April 16 and 17, 1890, under the chairmanship of Professor Michael Foster. The names of Wolley-Dod, Engleheart, Rawson, Baker, Krelage, Walker, Dorrien-Smith, and Burbidge appear as readers of papers on various subjects, such as " Seedling Daffodils," "Daffodils for Market," and "Polyanthus Narcissus." Not least in interest is the full list of the varieties exhibited at the conference, which was drawn up by the Rev. W. Wilks, assisted by Mr. J. W. Barr and Mr. W. Logan. We have now come to very modern times, when, thanks to the labours of Mr. Peter Barr, Mr. W. Baylor Hartland, and others, the Daffodil has become overwhelmingly popular. Naturally, this popularity has called forth books and treatises, and so we have The Book of the Daffodil, by the Rev. S. E. Bourne ; The Narcissus at the Antipodes, by A. Wilson of Dunedin ; Daffodils, Narcissi, and How to Grow them, by A. M. Kirby of New York ; and, by far the most striking and useful of all for modern seedHng-raisers, My Latest Hobby, by Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin. One of the last talks that I had with the old Daffodil King (Peter Barr) 12 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING was about this book. He told me he considered it almost as necessary for the beginning hybridiser as a small pair of forceps and a camel-hair brush, for, as he cannot have the necessary knowledge by intuition, he must have it in " black and white." CHAPTER II HISTORY After what has been written in the Introduction and in the chapter on the Daffodil in Books, there is not a great deal more to be said on the history of Daffodils, unless one were to go into details which are beyond the scope of this present work. I must content myself, and I hope at the same time interest my readers, with a selection of some of the more important events in Daffodil history which have not yet been touched upon. To begin with, although Gerard (1597) is the earliest author that is mentioned, it must not be supposed that the introduction of the Daffodil into English gardens dates from his time, for it must have been known and cultivated long before. It is mentioned by Turner (1548) and Lobel (1570), both of whom pub- lished their books many years before Gerard. The Daffo- dil was also a cultivated flower about this time in other countries than our own. I have before me as I write Le Jardin du rot tres Chretien Lays XIII. (1623) ; the Hortus Floridus of Passeus (1614) ; the Theatrum FlorcB, an anonymous work published in 1633 ; and the Anthologia of de Bry, published in 1626 ; in all of these there are numerous pictures of Daffodils and Narcissi. The Theatrum Flora is particularly interesting, because some of the modern types have their counterpart 14 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING there. On Plate 19 the flower called Narcissus Candidus medio liiteus patulo calice is really not very unlike Eoster, and the one named Narcissus luteus major amplo calice might be a first cousin to Frank Miles. On Plate 20 there is a draw- ing of N. Cyclamineus, true to life. Dean Herbert alludes to it as " an absurdity which will never be found to exist." Its rediscovery in Portugal in 1887 is one of the romances of the Daffodil world. I have mentioned these works to show that the Daffodil was a well-known garden plant at the very commencement of the seventeenth century, and that its cultivation was by no means confined to England. Another point of interest is to realise how in the middle of the last century the Polyanthus type had almost entirely ousted all the others from popular favour. Old Dutchmen have told me they can very well remember the time when no one thought of growing any Narcissi or Daffodils but these except on the very smallest scale, for there was no sale for them. How different it must have been from the sight I saw this spring at Messrs. van der Schoot & Son's bulb fields at Katwijk, where there were more Sir Watkins than I thought were to be found in the world ! The "send off " of Daffodils as we now know them was the Daffodil Conference of 1884. This event more than anything else set the ball rolling. Before twelve months were past Peter Barr had arranged in systematic order all the known varieties, and his firm, in conjunction with Mr. F. W. Burbidge, had published Ye Narcissus, a Daffodyl Flowre and hys Roots with hys culture, &c., &c., and Mr. W. Baylor Hartland of Cork had issued the first catalogue devoted entirely to Daffodils ever published. A copy of this little book is one of my literary treasures. It contains, HISTORY OF DAFFODILS 15 not counting Tazettas or Polyanthus — Narcissi, eighty-four varieties, of which the most expensive were Sir Watkin, 3s. 6d. a bulb ; Emperor, as. 6d. ; Empress, 2s. 6d. ; and Princess Mary, 2s. 6d, ; while one bulb of every kind listed might have been bought for something under £^. What a contrast to a modern one like that of Mr. A. M. Wilson of North Pether- ton, who lists 115 varieties, one bulb of each of which would cost about ;£S5o, thus averaging nearly ;^5 each ! As another illustration of the growth of the Daffodil in popu- lar favour it may be mentioned that when Emperor and Empress were first offered to the public they were sold at 2S. 6d. each ; this was in the 'seventies, whereas Madame de Graaff and Glory of Leiden began life at ^^5 in 1889, which is scarcely comparable to Peter Barr at £50, and the many novelties which are listed for the present season (19 10) at from ;^2o to £^0. Such are Pixie, -^25 ; Tara Ranee, £2^ ; Michael, ;^20 ; White Star, ;£20 ; and Conqueror, £^0. The most remarkable features of to-day are the shows and the number of enthusiasts who are at work raising seedlings. Every year we find the number increasing. This last season (19 10) we saw flowers of their own raising exhibited for the first time by Sir Josslyn Gore- Booth, Bart., of Lissadell, Sligo, and Messrs. Hogg and Roberson, Dublin. The Brecon Daffodil Society issued this year a leaflet to their members, expressing the hope that they will " cross-fertilise (Daffodils) and inform the Secretary as soon as they have obtained any results." The schedules of the larger shows have all of them classes for seedlings and new varieties. These are all straws which show us how the wind is blowing. With regard to the shows themselves, their importance is such that they will form the subject of a separate chapter. CHAPTER III BOTANY AND PHYSIOLOGY Although this is not a botanical treatise, a few notes on the general structure of the flower and the functions of the bulb and leaves may be useful to amateurs. The classification of the genus Narcissus according to Mr. J. G. Baker of Kew, which is the one usually recognised, is dependent upon the relative position of certain parts of the flower to one another. According to this authority, the varieties are divided into three great divisions — Magni- coronati, Medio-coronati, and Parvi-coronati — and the de- termining factor is the place which the perianth occupies on the perianth tube. For our purpose we may conceive a Narcissus flower to be composed of a tube of varying diameter from which spring six coloured petal-like growths, which together are called the perianth. If we look at a flower of Emperor or Lord Roberts (Plate VI.), we find that the perianth is placed low down on the tube at no great distance from the swollen and roundish, green top of the stem which is the ovary or seed vessel, also that that part of the tube on the side away from it is as long, or rather longer than the divisions of the perianth. This is the tj'pe of a Magni- coronati. If we now examine a flower like Autocrat or Elegance (Plate I.), we shall find the perianth in quite a i6 BOTANY AND PHYSIOLOGY 17 different position on the tube, and the part between it and the green ovary much longer, whilst the length of the tube on the other side is about half as long as the divisions of the perianth (in one or two exceptional cases three-quarters as long). This is the type of a Medio-coronati. As a third example let us take the well-known Ornatus, or Tom Hood (see Plate III.). In this type we have a flower of somewhat similar proportions, with a long space between the ovary and the perianth, but with a shorter length of the tube on the other side than in the last case. The length of the tube is less than a quarter as long as the divisions of the perianth. This is the type of a Parvi-coronati flower. It will be noted that the tube varied in diameter in the three divisions, and that it is much wider in the Magni- coronati than in the other two types ; also that the part which is, as it were, on the top of the flower is coloured either yellow, white, or red, or some combination of these colours. This is botanically called the Corona. For further details of classification the reader is referred to the special chapter under that heading. The centre of the flower is occupied by the pistil, which, if it is traced to its base, will be found to rise from an enlarged, roundish, green body at the end of the stem. The long part between the ovary or seed vessel and the top of the pistil is called the style, and the top itself the stigma. It is this stigma which interests us, as it is the surface upon which the pollen must be deposited in order to bring about fertilisation. At a certain period, usually soon after the flower has expanded, this surface is covered with a viscid substance. It is then that it is in a fit con- dition to receive the pollen. i8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Round this central organ (the pistil) there are six stamens. These spring from the inner side of the tube, and consist of a longer (Magni-coronati) or a shorter (Parvi-coronati) stem called the filament, and a top oval part like a grain of oats in shape, which is called the anther. These anthers are little boxes which open by themselves almost before the flower has really expanded ; they contain the pollen grains. Part of the operation of cross-fertilising consists in removing the anthers before they burst frc^ra flowers about to be fertilised with foreign pollen. Very little need be said about the functions of the bulb and the leaves. In practice the main things to know or remember are : (i) That the green leaves are the food manu- factories of the plant, and, that if they are removed before their work is completed there will be so much less food in the storehouse, which is the bulb. I mention this be- cause I know there are Daffodil growers who think they may cut off the leaves directly, or very soon after, the flower has faded. It may be done once with comparative impunity, the only result being rather weaker growth the next season and a poorer flower, but the treatment must not be repeated. (2) That the bulb is the cupboard of the plant where the food is kept. After a bulb has been a certain time out of the ground it will begin to show signs of growth, and the ends of leaves will appear from the top. This means that the plant has had to draw on its food supplies, and, that if the supplies are not replenished it will become weaker and weaker and ultimately die. This is the reason it is important to put the bulb in the ground in good time, so that it can make roots before it makes any top growth. BOTANY AND PHYSIOLOGY 19 Another point to be remembered is that light seems to unduly stimulate the growth of the leaves ; therefore a bulb when it is potted should be first of all placed under a covering of ashes or fibre, or sand outside, or else in a dark, well-ventilated cellar. CHAPTER IV CULTIVATION In connection with cultivation, it is necessary to remember that certain parts of the British Isles are very much better for Daffodil culture than others. We have not all of us got the damp, frostless climate of Cornwall or South Ireland, hke Mr. P. D. Williams and Miss Currey ; nor have we the soil that Mr. E. M. Crosfield and Mr. A. M. Wilson have found near Bridgwater ; nor again have we the acres of virgin soil that Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth has at Lissadell near Sligo. Most of us are tied to our present gardens, and all that we can do is to make the best of them. Like any other plant, the Daffodil responds to care and attention, so we can all do something to improve it. But there will be exceptions, for there are particular varieties which in practice fail to respond to our efforts, and we have the sad experience of seeing them gradually fail and die away. Those which fail are not the same in every garden. For example, the magnificent King Alfred would not grow for Mr. Crosfield at Wrexham, nor can I manage some of the varieties of Engleheartii, although others flourish. Few can grow the lovely Cernuus planus, although Miss Willmott, in her Essex garden, can grow it well, and, she has frequently been seen at the spring shows with a grand spray of it on her dress. These likes and DAFFODILS IN GRASS 21 dislikes of certain kinds every one must find out for him- self, just as in matters of food we can never tell what will agree and what will disagree with us until we try it. When we plant in clumps in mixed borders, all that can be done is to dig out as large a space as is pos- sible to the depth of a foot or eighteen inches, and mix a little bone meal in the soil below the bulbs. If the soil is stiff and clayey, some lighter soil or something that will help to keep it porous must be added, as no Daffodil likes stagnant moisture about its bulbs. If, however, it is very light and the drainage good, a layer of old cow manure placed at least six inches below the base of the bulb is advantageous, and kainit in addition to the bone meal may be added to the soil. In cases where whole beds on lawns are to be filled with Daffodils, the preparation may be a little more elabo- rate, and carried out as far as possible as I advise in the case of making beds for show Daffodils or for a collection. Two little practical details are worth noting. It must be remembered that nearly all the beautiful red cups and red edges burn very soon if exposed to hot sunshine ; if such varieties are used they should be put in positions where they will have a little shade. Secondly, attention must be given to the time the different kinds bloom, either to ensure a sequence of bloom or to have a big simultaneous display as may be desired. Daffodils in Grass. — Thei^e are two ways of planting, (i) By flaying large, irregular patches, and then loosening and enriching the soil with bone meal — or, when it is poor, with a very little superphosphate as well — then placing the bulbs in this prepared ground so that they will hold themselves 22 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING up and not tumble over when the sod is replaced. (2) By using such a tool as Barr's Special Bulb-planter. I have used this tool myself in planting bulbs in our churchyard, and can say from personal experience that it is most effec- tive. If possible, have three people for the operation — one to use the planter ; one to put a little good light prepared soil at the bottom of the hole for the bulb to root in, and then to place the bulb itself on this ; and a third to put back the little circular bit of turf that is released from the cup (of the planter) when a second hole is made. A large number of bulbs can be planted in this way in a short time, and, after the first shower of rain, it is impossible to tell that the ground has been disturbed. I am strongly in favour of planting one sort by itself. A mass of almost any flower is effective. I am sure much of the admiration that many things get in my garden is simply because they are grown in large beds. Another considera- tion is the grouping of varieties. As a rule, avoid violent contrasts, and arrange as far as possible for a gradual gradation from yellows to whites and whites to yellows.^ Lastly, avoid stiffness in planting. The more irregular the individual patches are the better ; and so arrange that a few stray bulbs are placed singly here and there near the outside of the clumps. As for the distance at which the bulbs should be planted from one another, it is undesir- able to dogmatise ; it must be remembered that in grass the increase is not great, and, that if they are very far apart the whole effect will look thin. I would suggest from five to seven inches according to the size of the plant. Planting in ' The Daffodils at Glasnevin Botanic Gardens, Dublin., are an excellent example of what I mean. They were planted by Mr. F. W. Moore, the present keeper. DAFFODILS IN BEDS 23 grass should not be attempted until the ground is softened by autumn rains. Attention to this detail is very necessary. Daffodils in Special Beds.— The special beds should be 3 feet 6 inches, or 4 feet wide, as long as convenient, and in such a position that they will be protected from cold winds. I have found the coir screening which is made in Maidstone for protecting Kent hops highly effective {Garden, May 14, 1910), both for shade from the sun and shelter from the wind. Something of this kind should be used if a windy position is inevitable. The ground should be " double dug " and Hme and bone meal added. If the drainage is not good the beds should be raised by well-tarred boards some inches above the surrounding level. This will be found a great help in keeping some rather delicate varieties in health, and is well worth doing. If after all this is done the results are not so good as was expected, the only thing then to be done is to procure some maiden fibrous loam, break it up, add a little bone meal and wood ashes, and then, having removed the old soil from the bed to the depth of eighteen inches or two feet, fill it up with this new compost. It is well in planting collections, especially if they are for show, to pay particular attention to the earliness or lateness of the different kinds, in order to give them the warmer or cooler positions they require, so as to ensure them bloom- ing as far as possible together. Provision must also be made for the protection of those flowers which have red cups and red edges. The bulbs in these beds must be planted in rows, and some good system of labelling adopted. The rows should be about 9 or 10 inches apart to allow a scuffle or hoe to be worked between them from time to time during their growth. 24 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING. This aeration of the soil is most beneficial all through the autumn and spring, whenever the land is dry and workable, at intervals of two or three weeks. Cultivation in Pots.— For the culture of Daffodils in pots it is well worth while making as good a compost as possible. Old decayed turf or virgin loam, mixed with some leaf-mould, silver sand, and a little bone meal, is what I use. This suits most varieties very well. The number of bulbs to be placed in a pot is best left to the taste of the individual. On the one hand, I do not like to see too many bulbs, as there is always an overcrowded look about them when they flower, and the individuality of the variety is, to some extent, lost. On the other hand, I greatly dislike a meagre pot. I have lately paid a good deal of attention to the depth of pot to be used, and have come to the conclusion that pots much shallower than ordinary pots suit the plants best and have a more natural look. The earliest varieties for the new year should be potted in August, and all the others in September. They must be plunged under cocoa fibre refuse or under ashes outside until they are well rooted. Then they must be removed to a cold frame and gradually inured to the light. Here they must remain until they are taken into the greenhouse as wanted, care being taken to protect them from frost by mats or other covering. It requires a certain amount of practical experience to know when to introduce the different varieties into heat, for if they are put in too early the effect is to retard growth. I have seen an early batch of Poeticus ornatus overtaken by a second which was introduced two weeks later into PLATE III Tom Hood. Horace. DAFFODILS IN BOWLS 27 the same house. I am sure that the less violent the change of temperature is, the better for the growth of the bulbs. Great attention must be paid to giving air on suitable days, and also to watering ; in fact, on the proper carrying out of these operations much of the success or failure depends. Daffodils in Bowls or Vases. — Any earthenware recep- tacle that holds water may be used for Daffodils, and any of the fibrous mixtures sold by bulb merchants may be em- ployed for the root medium. I have had most satisfactory results with ordinary light garden soil or peat-moss litter such as is sold for packing Tomatos in. The medium does not much matter so long as the after treatment is right. The principles to observe are the same as those in the case of pots. Pot firmly, and just cover the bulb with whatever medium is used, taking care that it is neither too dry nor too wet. A good test is the old one of taking a handful and closing the hand upon it and then opening it ; if the lump just holds together, but falls asunder directly it is touched, then all is well and potting can proceed. The next stage is either putting them in an airy cellar or room where all light is excluded, or plunging them under a shed so that the watering can be regulated, until the roots are formed and about an inch and a half or two inches of top growth made. The last stage is putting them out of the reach of frost in a frame or room, and bringing a few at a time into " heat " or a warm sitting-room as required. Messrs. R. Sydenham, Ltd., who were the pioneers of this culture, sell some excellent vases or pots of dark-green earthenware ; so do Messrs. Carter & Sons of Holborn. For myself, I like some delightful brown bowls of various shapes that are sold by Messrs. D. Dowel & Son of Hammersmith. 28 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING They are a very welcome change from the orthodox green, and they suit the flowers amazingly. Although this method of growing bulbs without drainage has been very popular, I cannot honestly say that it is an easy one. It requires constant care to see that the plants are not too dry or too wet, because, if either extreme should take place, "it will be bad for the plant." Method of Planting. — A safe rule to go by is to plant large bulbs 6 inches deep and small ones 4 inches, but in light soils these depths may be exceeded slightly. I like to get all the more expensive kinds in the ground very early in August, and, if the month is dry after the bulbs are planted, apply water in order to encourage root growth. In nature bulbs are only without working roots for a short time, the Poeticus and some of the Parvi-coronati varieties probably never ; hence it follows that the less time they are made to be without them the better. It certainly makes all the difference in the strength of the plant and size of the flower whether a bulb is planted early or late, as the follow- ing table will show. It is the record of what actually took place in my own garden this last season. Name. Height of Growth when planted on August 17th. Height when planted on November 15th. Lady Margaret Boscawen . Cassandra .... Torch Albatross .... Blackwell .... Ft. in. 2 1 10 2 1 2 Oj I II Ft. in. 1 7J 1 4i I 9 I 84 I 6 A question which has reference to planting is the length of time that the bulbs ought to be allowed to remain with- LIFTING AND STORING 29 out lifting, or in the case of show cultivation ought they to be allowed to remain a second year without being disturbed ? After a considerable experience I have come to the con- clusion that, except in the case of poor " doers," it is best to leave them alone for two years without disturbance ; the blooms are finer and earlier in the second season. This of course may be a detriment, but on the contrary, it may be valuable knowledge if late flowerers are wanted as early as possible. Another advantage in leaving bulbs two or three years in the ground, is that it is very likely that in the end there will be more increase ; at all events, the increase will be healthier. I fancy some varieties have been over propagated. This is the only way I can account for the curious behaviour of a seedling of my own. For five or six years it grew and flourished, and looked perfectly healthy. This last autumn, I suppose I was a bit greedy, for I re- member very well we divided it as much as we possibly could. The result has been disastrous. The plant came up all right, but over one-half of the little stock is badly affected with "Yellow stripe." It will be extremely in- teresting to watch its future. Anyhow, I take it as a warning not to over divide. I think Miss Currey has had similar experience. Lifting and Storing. — As soon as the leaves assume a yellow hue and begin to lie flat upon the ground, the time has come to lift the bulbs. Some varieties such as the "poets" have no period of rest, and in others it is but a short one. If the bulbs are lifted when the new roots have begun to grow, unless they are immediately replanted these young growths will die off, and this unnatural process will materially weaken the growths, so, whatever happens, too 30 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING late lifting must be avoided. It is far better to be a little too soon ; the worst that will happen then will be a rather less vigorous growth in the following season, and smaller flowers. After the bulbs are lifted they must be thinly spread out in a cool, airy place, either in trays or, if the collection is small, on bits of newspaper or plates, until they are thoroughly dry. If the getting-up season has been wet they must be looked at every second or third day, and turned ; if the drying does not progress very fastj spread still more thinly. When they look quite dry, they may be tested by seeing if the withered-up roots come easily away without tearing out a sort of little cushion from the base of the bulb. If this is all right, the cleaning and dividing may go on, the different sizes put together, and, last of all, they may be stored in trays or open bags until they are wanted to be planted. With regard to separation of off- sets, it is best only to remove those which naturally come away by themselves, or which can be broken off with the minimum of pressure. CHAPTER V CHANGING BULBS FROM ONE GARDEN TO ANOTHER There is a consensus of opinion that it is a distinct benefit to change stocks. Perhaps this apphes more especi- ally to large market growers, who are obliged to use the same ground year after year. In private gardens there is considerably less need for doing so, as naturally the places in the beds and borders will not always be filled with the same plants, and, if they were, they would in the ordinary routine of gardening work be dug and enriched ; not that Daffodils like fresh manure, but what I mean is that the borders would be manured to last for some considerable time, and that the chances are the Daffodil bulbs would not be put in until the sting had gone from the manure. I remember very well being present at a Birmingham Daffodil dinner when the talk was about cultivation. Mr. Engleheart, in giving an example of the benefit to be got by changing bulbs, said he once had some Weardale Per- fection which did not look very well, and he arranged with a friend to exchange fifty bulbs with him. Each was to select the worst-looking bulbs. He sent his off, and later on received from his friend his fifty. He thought when he unpacked them that he had been taken very fully at his word ; but they were planted, and certainly they came out 32 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING very well, and gave some of the best flowers he had. I had the same experience myself when I had a second garden. I used to find that a change of growing place almost always acted beneficially. I never can manage the variety Mrs. J. B. M. Camm, but the one year when it did really well with me was after it had been unmoved in my second garden for two years, it was transferred and planted in the lighter soil near my house. Closely connected with the above observations is a fact that I have observed more than once, namely, that if a big clump which has been a long time in one place, and contains only small bulbs, or even an individual bulb which has become a mass of offsets, be divided up, and then, if the small bulbs be trans- ferred to a new home, these little fellows will often produce flowers better than larger ones. Of course they must be planted very early to do this. I had an example this spring in some Lucifer bulbs and offsets which I received from a friend near Plymouth. I have a large bed of this variety, but the finest flowers were produced from the offsets from some monster bulbs received from my friend Mr. H. G. Hawker. Another example of the value of the exchange of bulbs from a poorer to a presumably fatter soil (I don't use the word richer, in case it should be thought I necessarily mean highly manured) happened some years ago, when I was a regular exhibitor at the Midland Show. One year I disposed of some of my surplus bulbs to the Rev. T. Buncombe, who also used to exhibit at Birmingham. The next year, when we met in competition, he beat me with flowers from my own bulbs. I felt pretty confident that it was the change of soil that had benefited the bulbs and put fresh vigour and strength into them. CHANGING BULBS 33 My advice about changing bulbs is this. When any one thinks a variety is not doing as well as it might do, he should find a friend who is willing to exchange bulbs. I would only begin with two or three varieties at first and closely watch the results. If the change proves beneficial, it might be done on a larger scale another year. The same principle holds good for ordinary garden varieties as well as for show blooms. A change of stock will often be of mutual benefit to those who exchange the bulbs. CHAPTER VI PROPAGATION PROPAGATION BY OFFSETS It is a known fact that certain varieties of Daffodils, like Victoria, increase very quickly, while others, like Gloria Mundi, increase but very little. In either case the proceed- ing is the same, and the important points to bear in mind are the following : — (i) It is a great temptation in the case of valuable varie- ties to split up the bulb too much. A safe rule to foUow is only to take off those offsets which come off by themselves when the bulb is dried, or which can be separated by a very slight outward pressure or pulling away. Skilful mani- pulators can sever some which are tightly joined to the parent bulb by means of a sharp knife, but I do not recommend the practice. Over-propagating by means of offsets weakens the constitution of the plants, just as over- propagation of a new Rose or Dahlia, and it predisposes them to "Yellow Stripe." I had a very peculiar experience this spring which has tended to prove that this is the case. A fine yellow seedling which I have had for five or six years, which I thought was as hardy as possible, for it always looked the picture of robust health, suddenly became affected this year with Yellow Stripe. I remember I divided it up very severely last autumn, more than I had ever done before. PROPAGATION BY SEED 35 I think that this was the cause of the attack, therefore I say, Don't over-divide. (2) It is of the very greatest benefit to plant offsets as soon as possible ; the smaller they are, the greater is the necessity. Except in the case of expensive bulbs, I doubt if the growing of small offsets is worth the while of any amateur. At any rate, offsets should be planted by them- selves in beds in the kitchen garden or in some vacant space in August. This is not an easy matter in the average garden if a large quantity has to be dealt with, but to increase a stock it is necessary. If by any chance the cultivator is late in taking up his bulbs and they have begun to make new roots, they must be planted at once without being dried off. In the case of offsets this is of even more importance than for the parent bulb. The best advice, therefore, with regard to offsets, is to plant early. PROPAGATION BY SEED Daffodil seed, when fully ripe, is black and shiny. As soon as it assumes this appearance, which will probably be some time early in July, it may be sown either in the open ground or in boxes or pans. Most raisers of seedlings prefer the latter plan, although I know one or two cultivators who think the former way the best, as they contend that the plants will sooner arrive at their flowering stage. I have not tested it myself, and I am disposed to doubt it, as Mr. Engleheart, who ought to know what is the best, if any one does, always sows the seed in boxes. Stout, wooden boxes of any convenient size may be used, provided they are 36 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING from 6 to 7 inches deep, and have drainage holes at the bottom. The soil should be good, fibrous loam, with sharp sand added to make it light and porous. In filling up the boxes care must be taken to see that the drainage is good ; then enough compost may be put in to bring the level up to within an inch and a half of the top. On this the seeds must be sown at equal intervals of one-half to three-quarters of an inch, and they must be covered with soil an inch deep. It is best to put the boxes in cold frames, but the lights need not be used until frost begins, unless the weather is very wet. Then they may be put on when necessity re- quires ; and, further, the plants may be protected by mats when the weather is particularly severe. This protection and culture in frames is not absolutely necessary ; I have seen the boxes just stood out-of-doors and exposed to all weathers, and the results have been good. The seed soon germinates if it is sown directly it is ripe. Everything possible should be done to promote growth by seeing the soil is kept at the right degree o( moisture, and, that the growing period is as long as possible, by putting on the lights when there is frost at night. The subsequent treat- ment consists in giving air on every suitable day, and top-dressing the boxes with cocoa fibre when the grass-like seedlings appear. This keeps down moss. At the end of two years they may be transplanted into beds in the open, an opesation which is performed best when the young roots are beginning to be formed, say in June or July. They must be planted out straight from the seed pan, and not in any way dried off. Attention to this matter is important, as it means very often the saving of a year in the plant coming to its flowering stage. In planting out, enough space must PLANTING OUT 37 be left between the bulbs (which should for convenience of cultivation be arranged in rows) to allow them to grow and flower where they are pricked off. This will be in their fourth or fifth year, although some may not flower until their sixth or seventh. Frequent hoeing between the rows is very helpful to the growth of the young plants, there- fore the rows should be clearly marked when there are no leaves as a guide. The period of waiting will seem long before the first flower shows itself, but, if an annual sowing is made, once this period is passed, there will be a succes- sion of flowering seedlings every year. It is a fact that the first flower that a young plant bears is not always a suffi- cient indication of what it is capable of producing. In some mysterious way the flowers improve as the plant gets older. Hence it is advisable to allow young plants, that show any promise at all, to bloom a second or third time before they are finally discarded. With regard to sowing out-of- doors a similar procedure must be followed. A sheltered bed must be chosen, and the seeds sown in drills about an inch deep. Transplanting into flowering beds should take place at the end of their second year. No protection is required, as the seedlings are perfectly hardy. CHAPTER VII RAISING NEW VARIETIES BY CROSS-BREEDING If I were asked to name the outstanding feature of the immediate present in connection with the Daffodil, I should say without hesitation, the growing wish among the rank and file of exhibitors and cultivators to try and produce some good novelties for themselves. Straws show which way the wind is blowing. Just so, a comparison of an up-to-date bulb list with one of some eight or ten years ago reveals an important change in the type of window dressing used to make this or that variety attractive to would-be purchasers. " Sure seeder," " good pollen parent " figure as prominently and almost as often as "beautiful red cup " or " grand overlapping perianth." Again, all the larger societies provide special classes in their schedules for " seedlings " and " new varieties," and only this last spring the Breconshire Society issued a circular to the whole of its members urging them to begin the work. To give a full list of all those who have already taken up hybridising is impossible. I will, however, mention some of the more prominent breeders, partly in order that their names, as to some extent pioneers, may be recorded, and partly because 1 feel sure that if a beginner wants informa- tion he may appeal to any of them with whom he happens to be acquainted, for guidance and advice, in the certain SOME SEEDLING RAISERS 39 hope that help will be as willingly and as ungrudgingly given to them as it has been to me. These, then, are some of our chief seedling raisers : The Rev. G. H. Engleheart (Dinton, Salisbury) ; Mr. E. M. Crosfield (Cossington, Bridgwater) ; Mr. P. D. Williams (St. Keverne, Cornwall) ; Mr. W. F. Copeland (Stone) ; Mr. J. C. Williams (Caerhays Castle, Cornwall) ; Messrs. Barr & Sons (London) ; Messrs. de Graaff Bros. (Leiden) ; Messrs. Van der Schoot (Hillegom, Holland) ; Mr. Worsley (Clifton, Bristol) ; Miss Spurrell (Norwich) ; Mr. Mallender (Bawtry) ; Mr. J. D. Pearson (Lowdham) ; Mr. Chapman (Rye) ; Mr. W. A. Watts (St. Asaph) ; Sir Josslyn Gore- Booth, Bart. (Sligo) ; Mr. T. Batson (Beaworthy) ; Rev. G. P. Haydon (Canterbury) ; Mr. C. H. Cave (Mangotsfield, Bristol) ; Mr. J. Pope (Kings Norton) ; Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin (Kidderminster) ; Mr. J. Douglas (Great Book- ham( ; Miss Willmott (Great Warley) ; Mr. W. B. Hartland (Cork) ; Mr. A. M. Wilson (Shovell, Bridgwater) ; Mr. G. H. Van Waveren (Holland) ; Mrs. R. O. Backhouse (Hereford) ; Sir John Llewellyn, Bart. (Swansea) ; and Mr. C. L. Adams (Wolverhampton). It is of special interest, as showing how the cult is being taken up in Australia and New Zealand, to mention that Mr. Leonard Buckland of Camperdown, Australia, Mr. H. H. B. Bradley of Sydney, and Professor Thomas of Auckland University, New Zealand, are all engaged in this work. This fascinating pursuit, hobby, or business, to give it names which are appropriate to the different ends in view, is one which I advise every Daffodil cultivator to take up ; whether it be for pleasure or with a view to business it is equally alluring and interesting. The one great drawback 40 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING that can be urged against it is the time that must necessarily elapse between the seed-sowing and the harvest. From four to six or seven years is a long time to wait for results, but, as the oft-repeated quotation from old Philip Miller (1733) says, "After the first five years are past, if there be seeds sown every year, there will be annually a succession of flowers to show themselves ; so that there will be a continual expectation, which will take off the tediousness which, during the first five years, might be very trouble- some to some persons ; and the annual production of new flowers corresponding to the annual sowing, it will be as if the product arose soon after." By way of encouragement I ought to mention that the adage " Beginners have all the luck " has been once more exemplified in the case of the Daffodil. I was talking to Mr. Worsley of Clifton at one of the R.H.S. meetings this spring, and he told me that Bernardino, which is one of the most beautiful flowers we have, was number 55 or 56 in his list of crosses, and that, beyond the fact that Lulworth was one of the parents, he knew but little about it. Challenger, which Mr. Crosfield considers the best shallow-cupped flower that he has raised, was one of those which had their origin in the days before he kept any accurate account of his crosses. Madame de Graaff, the marvellous white Ajax that has revolutionised all our ideas of the possibilities of white Trumpets, was a chance seedling and one of the first raised by de Graaff Brothers of Leiden. Kingcup, a cross between Golden Spur and Ornatus, was a prize which my friend Mr. Adams of Pendeford Hall, Wolverhampton, drew, I think, the first time he put his hand in the lucky-bag. It is from the same cross as PLATE IV Circlet Firebrand. WHAT IS HYBRIDISATION? 43 Homespun, and is a truly grand flower. This example shows, too, that it is not necessarily expensive varieties which produce the best results. Homespun to-day has no rival, and I prophesy a similar career for it at Daffodil shows to that which Sir Joseph Paxton has had among Tulips. What is Hybridisation?— In strict botanical language, a hybrid is the result of one species being fertilised by means of the pollen of another species, but as far as Daffodils are concerned we use the term in a wider sense and apply it to any cross-bred variety. In nature, pollination is effected in many ways, but principally by means of insects or by the wind, and, it is at once obvious that when this is the case the particular pollen which reaches any particular stigma is a matter of pure chance ; the resulting seedling may, therefore, be anything. The work and interest of the hybridist or cross-breeder consist in his being able to put any pollen he wishes on any stigma, and, as he has, thanks to the labours of Herbert, Backhouse, Leeds, and Engleheart, certain data to go upon, he is able to so arrange matters that he can to some extent iletermine the kind of flower he will produce. Thus a Leedsii (seed-parent) such as Minnie Hume crossed with a big Ajax like Madame de GraafI will generally give a giant Leedsii like "White Queen." Those who are not familiar with the structure of a flower may refer to the chapter on Botany and Physiology (page 16). In the middle of the flower there is the long, slender style which is slightly flattened out at the end into what is called the " stigma." This stigma, at a certain period of its development, becomes covered with a sticky substance, which enables it to retain the pollen, which is 44 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING conveyed to it by means of a small camel-hair paint- brush. The pollen is found in little, long-shaped cases which are produced at the end of the stamens, and called anthers. Before the flower is open they are closed, but before long they open and shed the pollen, which is a fine, dust-like substance. The Daffodil being one of those flowers which are very easily self-fertilised, it is necessary to take away the anthers before they have burst. This operation is known as " deanthering," and must be done as soon as the flower begins to open by means of a pair of small forceps. Ex- perience and practice will soon tell any one the earliest and the latest periods when it can be done. The next step is to bring about pollination in order to cause fertilisation. This is effected by slightly moistening the tip of the camel-hair brush in one's mouth and then applying it to the pollen which it is wished to use, conveying it by this means to the stigma of the flower which has been selected as the seed-parent. The proper time to do this is when the flower has just fully opened, as then the stigma is in its most receptive condition. I am unable to say how long this condition lasts, but it is certain that as the flower ages the viscid surface of the stigma becomes drier, and after a time the pollen will not adhere. This bare description shows how fertilisation is carried out by human agency. It is obvious that to complete it there are many details that mtist be filled in. For example, it is necessary to know that pollen will keep good for at least two weeks if it is kept quite dry and clean ; that the best time to carry out cross-fertilisation is on a bright day between lo A.M. and 4 P.M., but that this is not an absolute CROSS-FERTILISATION 45 necessity ; that in cold and sunless weather the operation should be repeated more than once — in fact, in my own case, I endeavour always to apply pollen at least twice ; that the pollen brushes must be kept very clean, and all the pollen of one variety carefully removed before the same brush is used for any other variety ; that it is not found necessary in practice to cover the fertilised bloom in any way with glass or muslin ; and that, the seed-bearer should be growing in a good, open position. Even when all these details are learned there are still very important points to be considered — in fact, all I have mentioned up to now are, as it were, the parts of the organ-blower as compared with that of the organist. Very necessary, absolutely necessary I may say, but by no means all. To qualify for this higher part certain technical know- ledge is necessary. I hope in the concluding portion of this chapter to give enough facts and suggestions to enable any one who masters them to make a good start with their hybridising. RESULTS OF CROSS-FERTILISATION Speaking in the most general terms, the results of cross- fertilisation may be stated as follows : — Seed-Parent. Pollen-Parent. Hybrid. An Ajax or Trumpet x Poeticus = Incomparabilis. Poeticus X Tazetta = Poetaz. White Ajax x Leedsii = Giant Leedsii. Ajax X Triandrus = Johnstonii. Small White Ajax x Poeticus = Leedsii. Incomparabilis x Poeticus =Burbidgei. 46 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Seed-Parent. Pollen-Parent. Hybrid. Leedsii xTriandrus = Intermediate forms with two or three flowers on a stem. Ajax X Cyclamineus = Intermediate forms, generally with a weak constitution. Incomparabilis: cess Mary Prin- } X Poeticus = Engleheartii. As further concrete examples will make the above table clearer, I have collected from various sources a list of hybrids with their parentage,^ e.g. : — Pearl of Kent (white Trumpet), from Madame de Graaff (seed-parent) x Monarch (pollen-parent). Florence Pearson (white Trumpet), from Emperor x Madame de Graaff. Lowdham Beauty (giant Leedsii), from Minnie Hume x Madame de Graaff. Albatross (Incomp.), from Ornatus X Empress. Dorothy Kingsmill (Triandrus hybrid), from Grandee X Triandrus. Dante (Poet), from Ornatus X Poetarum. Cresset (Engleheartii), Princess Mary x Poetarum. Homespun (Incomp.), Golden Spur X Ornatus. Brilliancy (Incomp.), M. J. Berkeley X a new Poeticus variety. Torch (Incomp.), from Maximus x Poetarum. White Star (Incomp.), from Princess Mary x Horace. Poetaz Narcissi, from Ornatus x a Tazetta variety. Giraffe (giant Incomp.), from Madame de Graaff x Princess Mary. ' The first of the two parents mentioned is the seed-bearer. A FEW SPECIAL FACTS 47 Spenser (Poet), from Pbetarum x Recurvus. Moonbeam (Leedsii), from Hon. Mrs. Barton x Recurvus. The above examples give in a concrete form the general results to be expected from a cross, but to still further guide the beginner I have made a list of a few special facts which it will be of great advantage for him to know. (i) Varieties differ widely in their capacity as seed- bearers or pollen-parents, e.g. Sir Watkin is a very shy seeder. The pollen of Triandrus is most potent. Lists will be appended as a guide. (2) Climatic conditions influence the seed-bearing pro- perties of the same variety. Therefore, it is inadvisable to condemn varieties as being sterile too hastily, and we must not expect everything that seeds in Cornwall to seed equally as well in Nottinghamshire. Mr. Bradley of Sydney, S. Australia, in his paper at the R.H.S. Genetic Conference in 1906, instanced the case of Emperor and Sir Watkin never seeding with him, whereas "on the mountains, where the season is later and the climate moister, such varieties as Emperor and Sir Watkin set seed on nearly every bloom that is not cut." (3) Probably more good things of the Incomparabilis and Engleheartii types have come from crossing Princess Mary with a Poet's Narcissus than from any other cross. (4) Lulworth crossed with a Poet variety has given many varieties with fine, red eyes. (5) Mrs. Langtry and Hon. Mrs. Barton give white flowers. (6) Cassandra is excellent for imparting overlapping segments in its progeny. 48 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING (7) King Alfred and Triandrus are specially potent pollen-parents, and the first almost always imparts its rich colour. (8) To bring varieties that naturally bloom at different periods in flower at once, it will be necessary to plant in earlier or later positions as the case may be, or even to grow such kinds as Horace, Virgil, and the Poet's Narcissus in pots. (9) Pollen from a distance seems to be more efficacious than when " home grown." (10) As a rule in hybridising the "male" gives colour, and the female " form." (11) Daffodils may be grown and seeded in pots in cold or cool greenhouses, and a very fair amount of seed obtained. I have been very successful in this way myself. The bulbs must be planted in a good soil, and not be crowded in the pots, and they must be removed to as cool a position as possible when the seed-pods are maturing. (12) A good system of labelling and recording crosses should be adopted. (13) The seed-pods should be carefully watched when they are reaching maturity, and if the black, shiny seed can be seen through the outer covering, the pod may be cut oif. If there is any doubt about the state of the seed, I always make a tiny hole with my knife so as to get a clue. LIST OF THIRTY GOOD SEED-BEARERS Duke of Bedford. Lady Margaret Bos- cawen. Minnie Hume. King Alfred. Mrs. R. Sydenham. Madame de Graaff. Weardale Perfection, Firebrand. Judge Bird. W. B. Hardand. Oriflamme. TOOLS NECESSARY 49 Most of the Poet varieties. Emperor. Henry Irving. Golden Spur. Pallidus Praecox. P. R. Barr. Eyebright. Glory of Nordwijk. Bernardino. Acme. Golden Bell. Alert. Mrs. Walter Ware. LIST Empress. Horsfieldii. Glory of Leiden. Homespun. Princess Mary. Mrs. Langtry. Albicans. Evangeline. Lord Muncaster. Decora (a Dutch var.). OF SHY SEEDERS Maximus. Sir Watkin. Gloria Mundi. Flora Wilson. Crown Prince. Duchess of West- minster. Autocrat. POTENT POLLEN-PARENTS King Alfred. Maximus. Eyebright. Emperor. Weardale, Perfection. Circlet. Madame de GraafF. W. P. Milner. All the Poet varie- ties. Lulworth. Castile. Poetarum (for its colour). TOOLS NECESSARY IN CROSS-BREEDING A pair of small forceps. Two or three small, camel-hair brushes. A dozen or more small boxes to hold pollen. These must have a lid, but when the pollen is in them the lid should be removed, or tilted, to allow air to enter. A tray to hold some of the little boxes for the con- venience of carrying them, but this is not indispensable. String, labels, and a notebook. Each pollinated flower should be marked and the cross recorded in a notebook. D CHAPTER VIII ENEMIES, DISEASES, POISONS In an American book by Mr. I. M. Kirby, entitled Daffodils (Narcissus) and How to Grow Them, Chapter viii. is headed "The One Insect and One Disease," and it begins, "The Daffodil amateur has a happy lot in the matter of diseases and insects." Unfortunately, those who cultivate Daffodils in our own country have found that there is more than one insect that we have to guard against, and more than one disease that may attack our plants. I feel, therefore, that I must flatly contradict the heading of the chapter, and say that although it may be, as I hope it is, true in America, it is not true in England. It may seem paradoxical, but notwithstanding what I have written I can do nothing but say " Hear, hear 1 " to his opening sentence. The Daffodil amateur has a happy lot in the matter of diseases and insects, if only he will be careful to cultivate his plants well and not attempt the impossible. He must not imagine that he can grow every variety. I am often asked why things look so well in my garden. My answer is that I only grow what I find by practical trial will succeed. I don't care for the garden that re- sembles a hospital or convalescent home. I most strongly advise the ordinary amateur to find out what Daffodils won't do well with him, and then, having found this out, not THE NARCISSUS FLY 51 to attempt to grow them, or, at least, until such time as he will be beyond needing the advice and help of this book. He must walk before he runs. I have grown Daffodils for over twenty years, and can honestly say that my experi- ence with regard to insects and diseases has been a happy one. I once was at Wem, talking to Mr. John Eckford, the son of the old Sweet Pea King, Henry Eckford. It was at a time when streak and sleeping disease was beginning to frighten people. I said, " What do you do in such cases ? " or something to the same effect. His answer surprised me : " I know practically nothing about them, as I have never been troubled with anything of the sort." I cannot claim the same immunity in the case of Daffodil diseases and enemies, but I can say I have had very few, and, what is more to the point, I don't think the average Daffodil man has much cause to worry. The one great enemy is, I consider, " Yellow Stripe." As, however, every one may not be so fortunate in these matters, I am going to mention the enemies and diseases, and suggest necessary precautions if not actual remedies. THE NARCISSUS FLY {Merodon equestris) This is a fly something like a small, dark-coloured bee, with a single pair of wings, and marked " with brown, yellow, and sometimes white and red markings." " It is about half an inch long, and an inch across the wings when they are open " (see figure reproduced from the Gardeners' Chronicle). The Rev. S. E. Bourne, in his Book of the Daffodil, 52 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING says it may easily be identified in the garden by two charac- teristics, one being the peculiar, darting nature of its flight, and the other the curious, piercing, shrill sound which it makes as it moves about. It is not the fly itself that does the damage, but its grub. This is a fat, wrinkled, whitish- yellow grub, about one inch or less in length, and of about the same diameter as an ordinary date-stone ; it has a small, black head. It eats out the inside of the bulb, and then, when the time has come for it to assume its chrysalis state, leaves it. How it enters and its general life-history have been made the subject of a monograph, LaMouche du Narcisse, by Dr. J. Ritzema Bos (Haarlem, i88s). Two preventive measures may be adopted. The flies may be caught with a butterfly net in May and June ; or when the bulbs are lifted, if there is any suspicion that they are affected, each one must be pinched at the top, and if it is soft, very likely a grub is inside. The bulb must be then cut open and the unwelcome guest destroyed. By careful cutting it is often possible to save a valuable bulb. The Narcissus Fly (The larva, chrysalis, and perfect insect are magnified) SLUGS, BASAL ROT 53 THE SWIFT MOTH CATERPILLAR {Hepialus lupulinus) The moths, which are a dusky-brown colour, appear in May and June, when they at once begin to lay eggs. The caterpillars are underground from July till the end of the following April. It is then that they do the mischief by feeding on the roots and the bulb, very occasionally on the shoots. The enemy is detected by the feeble growth of leaves, and by the bulb when lifted being bored for a short way with one or more holes. I have had no experience of this myself, and would refer readers to Mr. H. R. Darlington's exhaustive article on the subject in vol. XXXV., part ii., of the Journal of the R.H.S. (Nov. 1909). I acknowledge my indebtedness to him for the above information. The only practical remedy that he is able to suggest is annual lifting of bulbs. As I lift mine every year, this is perhaps the reason why my plants have escaped the pest. SLUGS I am quite sure these eat the young roots and base of the bulb. Two years ago my Madame de Graafl bed seemed to be infested with them, as we found a great many at the base of the bulbs when we lifted them to see what was the matter. I cannot see that anything can be done but Hfting the bulbs. BASAL ROT What causes this I am unable to say. It may be an over-manured soil, especially if it is rich in nitrogen, or a 54 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING cold and sour soil. It may be the natural end or death of the bulb. I am inclined to think it is manure. Many varieties which suffer badly in cultivated soil can be grown in grass or near the roots of a hedge. I know no cure. The only thing is to give up growing those varieties which are the worst sufferers. RUST I have noticed a sort of brown stripe on the foliage of some varieties, more especially last season and this. In a Dutch book on the Narcissus by D. J. M. Wustenhoff and R. H. Beerhorst, the cause is ascribed to rainy weather and damp soil. This certainly agrees with my experience. YELLOW STRIPE This is known by long, yellow marks extending along the leaves. In very bad cases, as in the case of a small Leedsii that I grow as Princess of Wales, it makes the plant look just as if it had variegated leaves. Every Daffodil grower wants to know the cause, or what it is that makes the plant subject to the attack. Mr. Darlington wrote a long note on the subject in the R.H.S. Journal for November 1908 (vol. xxxiv., part ii.), in which he seems to think my view of cold may be the correct one. I am still of that opinion, only I would add the corollary that certain causes may predispose plants to an attack : (i) weakening by over-division ; (2) doing badly the pre- vious year. I believe some varieties are naturally liable to it, just as some humans take cold more easily than others, POISON IN LEAVES 55 or as some suffer ffofti throat weakness, and not others. I have noticed this year and last that almost always it is the upper halves of the leaves which have it worst, thereby suggesting that it is just the part which comes through the ground the earliest and is exposed to the worst and coldest weather. I know no cure at present, but I hope some one may be able to tell us what to do, for I cannot help feeling that this Yellow Stripe may become a real " Yellow Peril " if it increases. I can only say that if a variety has a very mild attack, it suffers very little harm ; but where the dis- ease has been virulent and is repeated from year to year, the grower may have to discard that variety. If a bulb is valuable, it may be brought back to health by sending it to a friend in some warm and favoured locality, such as the south of Ireland. POISON IN LEAVES Some people, including myself, suffer from a skin irrita- tion which is set up by handling Daffodils. The juice from the leaves and stems gets on one's fingers, and, in an hour or two afterwards, small white-looking pimples arise, just like nettle stings. These break, and a most irritating form of eczema is set up. I find that Vinolia ointment always allays the itching, and that Resinol, an American prepara- tion, and a certain tarry-smelling ointment that I get from Mr. G. H. Mackereth, chemist, Ulverston, are excellent applications for healing purposes. CHAPTER IX CLASSIFICATION Modern Daffodil classification may be said to have been begun when Haworth published his monograph on the Narcissus in 1831. The later Mr. Peter Barr was the fortunate possessor of a copy of the second edition of this exceedingly rare pamphlet, and I presume his sons still have it. It is entitled Narcissinearutn Monographia auctore A. H. Haworth, and was published by J. Ridgway of Piccadilly in 1831. It was also published as a supplement to Sweet's Flower Garden (vol. i., 2nd series, 183 1). Nearly 150 species are enumerated, but what Haworth understood by a species most botanists would regard as a garden variety. He classified these under sixteen genera. Dean Herbert of Manchester, who had made a special study of Amaryllideae, to which order the Narcissus belongs, revised Haworth's work and reduced his sixteen genera to six. These he named Corbularia (Hoop Petticoats), Ajax (Trumpets), Ganymedes (Triandrus), Queltia (Incomparabilis and Medio-coronati), Narcissus (Poets), and Hermione (Poly- anthus). The words in brackets are my own, and are only inserted to give a rough idea of their modern equivalents. These classifications have now been superseded by that of J. G. Baker, who in 1869 published in the Gardeners' 56 BAKER'S CLASSIFICATION 57 Chronicle an entirely new classification of the whole genus, and made his divisions depend on the relative length which naturally exists between the perianth segments as con- trasted with the corona or cup or trumpet. This classifica- tion was extended and published in the Gardeners' Chronicle in 1884, but Mr. Baker's mature plan was published in his Amaryllidece in 1888. In this he made the three great divisions of Magni-coronati, Medio-coronati, and Parvi- coronati, which we still have. Under these main heads he classified all the existing varieties, and, what is a point of special interest to the modern hybridiser, he, for the first time, gave garden hybrids a place in his arrangement. These are marked in his work {Amaryllidece) by "Hort" (for Hortorum) after the name assigned to the division, and are the work of Mr. Peter Barr. For a full account of this division I would refer the reader to (i) The Narcissus, by F. W. Burbidge and J. F. Baker (1875) ; (2) Ye Narcissus or Daffodyl Flowre, published by Barr & Sons (1884) ; and (3) The Book of the Daffodil, by Rev. S. E. Bourne (1903). The authority more often consulted than any other by gardeners and Daffodil growers generally is Barr's Daffodil List, which is in its intention merely a trade list, but which has now for a long time occupied a unique position in the Daffodil world. Partly on account of its being origin- ally the work of Peter Barr, and partly by its being kept up to date by his son, Mr. P. Rudolf Barr, in consulta- tion with the late Mr. Burbidge (witness, for example, the introduction of the Engleheartii section in 1904), it has great weight and authority. Therefore the classification which follows is simply that of Barr's List, popularly explained. 58 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING It may not be such as to satisfy the strict botanist, but it has no rival as a working basis for understanding and arranging the different types of flower in the genus. GROUP I. MAGNI-CORONATI {True Daffodils) Distinguishing character : Tube of flower as broad as it is long, and the crown or trumpet more than three- quarters as long, or longer than the perianth segment or petals. Ajax or Pseudo-Narcissus or Trumpet, Dafifodils. — This division is distinguished by having a long trumpet or crown, and large perianth segments. Its subdivisions are into whites — ex., Madame de Graaff ; yellows — ex.. Emperor ; bicolors — ex., Empress ; and doubles — ex., Tela- monius Plenus. Johnstonii. — Hybrids of Narcissus triandrus, Fuchsia- like Daffodils, perianth reflexing. Ex., Queen of Spain. Cyclamineus. — Cyclamen-flowered Daffodil. Yellow, long, tube-shaped perianth, segment so much reflexed as to be almost in a line with the long trumpet. Ex., Cycla- mineus. Backhouse! Hybrids of Ajax x Tazetta. Ex., William Wilks. In this sub-section the crown or trumpet is expanded more at the end than at the base. It is large compared with an ordinary Incomparahilis such as Autocrat, and in the show classification of the R.H.S. of 1908 it is classed as a short Trumpet along with the large varieties of Leedsii, &c. Tridymus. — Hybrids of Tazetta x Ajax. These are but PLATE V Triandrus hybrids. MEDIO-CORONATI 6i little known, and of no great value for decoration. They have from two to four flowers on a stem. Ex., Cloth of Gold. GROUP II. MEDIO-CORONATI (Chalice-cupped Daffodils, Star Narcissi, or frequently " Incomparables ") Distinguishing characters : Depth of crown or cup, from one-quarter up to three-quarters the length of the perianth segments (petals). Incomparabilis. — Crown more than one-third and up to three-quarters the length of perianth segments, e.g. Sir Watkin and Autocrat. Double Incomparabilis " Rose- flowered Daffodils," e.g. Orange Phoenix. Barrii. — Depth of cup, one-quarter to one-third the length of the perianth segments, e.g. Barrii conspicuus. Leedsii (Eucharis-flowered Narcissi). — Comprising the white and pale citron cupped Incomparabilis and Barrii forms, all with pure-white perianths. The silvery-white look of the flower is unmistakable. Ex., Mrs. Langtry. Bernardii. — Hybrids between AT. Abscissus and N.poeticus. The short, sharply cut-off cup is the distinguishing mark. Ex., H. E. Buxton. This type is now seldom seen on show tables. Madeai. — A very small bicolor Narcissus, white peri- anth, and goblet-shaped cup ; dwarf. Ex., Madeai. Nelsonii. — The characteristic is the long, straight cup and snow-white perianth. Ex., Nelsonii major. The varieties of Nelsonii have a very distinct look, which the reader must study. 62 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Triandrus. — Cyclamen or Fuchsia-flowered Daffodils. The features of this group are the reflexing segments of the perianth and the sharply cut-off, chalice-shaped cup. Ex., N. triandrus albus. Juncifolius.— The rush-leaved Daffodil. This is a dimi- nutive plant, growing about 3 to 4 inches high, with rich yellow flowers that look like buttercups. Rush-like leaves. Odorus. — Giant Jonquils, or, as they are so much more frequently met with than the true Jonquil, simply Jonquils. Characteristics : Rush-like foliage, yellow flowers, gener- ally two or three on a stem, scented. Ex., Campernelle Jonquil. Odorus plenus.— Double Jonquils. Ex., Queen Anne's Double Jonquil. GROUP III. PARVI-CORONATI Distinguishing character : Depth of cup, less than one- quarter the length of the perianth segments. Burbidgei. — Dolly-cup Daffodils. The Bnrbidgei varieties have a rather longer cup than the true Poeticus, and, as a rule, flower earlier. Ex., John Bain. Engleheartii. — These have large, disc-like cups or eyes, very flat-looking compared with all other types, although some of the new large-eyed Poeticus varieties resemble them. Ex., Circlet (see illustration, Plate IV.). Poeticus.— True Narcissi or " Poet's Daffodils." These all have a peculiar white texture in their perianths, and an eye which is either all red or else it has a narrower or deeper red edge, e.g. Ornatus. Poeticus, Double.— The Gardenia-flowered Narcissus. PARVI-CORONATI 63 This variety flowers very late, and is snow-white. Fre- quently the flowers "go blind," e.g. /'Double White." Poetaz, " Poetaz Narcissi."— These are hybrids between Ornaius and a Tazetta. They have from two to five, or sometimes six, flowers on a stem ; generally only three or four. Deliciously scented. The individual flowers are much larger than those of Tazetta. Biflorus. — Primrose Peerless Daffodil. This is very likely a natural hybrid akin to a Poetaz in parentage. Ex., Biflorus. Jonquilla. — Sweet-scented Jonquil. Small, deep-yellow flowers, generally two or three on a stem ; rush-like leaves. Tazetta. — Polyanthus Narcissus. Nosegay Daffodils. These varieties have from five to ten or twelve flowers on a stem. They are powerfully scented. The individual flowers not very large. Ex., Soleil d'or. There are several very rare and little-known kinds that I have omitted, such as Bronssonettii, in which the crown is reduced to a mere rim, but I do not think they will be missed by any but botanists. They are of little use for garden or show purposes. CHAPTER X THE R.H.S. CLASSIFICATION OF DAFFODILS, 1910 I NOW give a complete copy of the new classification which has been adopted (19 lo) by the R.H.S. for official use at its shows. It will not be printed, I believe, until every known variety has been pigeon-holed. When this is done the whole will, it is hoped, form a convenient and reliable basis on which show schedules may be drawn up. It will take the place of a scheme issued by the same authority in 1908, but which, although it has been adopted by the Midland and Brecon Societies, and also for one year by the Devon Society, has not found general favour. Division I. Trumpet Daffodils.— Distinguishing char- acter : Trumpet or crown as long or longer than the perianth segments. (a) Varieties with yellow or lemon-coloured trumpets, and perianth of same shade or lighter (but not white). (6) Varieties with white trumpet and perianth. (c) Bicolor varieties, i.e. those having a white or whitish perianth, and a yellow, lemon, or primrose trumpet. Division XL Incomparabilis — Distinguishing character: Cup or crown not less than one-third, but less than equal to the length of the perianth segments. 64 R.H.S. CLASSIFICATIONS 65 (a) Yellow shades, with or without red colouring on the cup. (6) Bicolor varieties, with white or whitish perianths and self-yellow, red-stained, or red cups. Division III. Barrii {incorporating Burhidgei). — Distin- guishing character : Cup or crown less than one-third the length of the perianth segments. [a) Yellow shades, with or without red colouring on the cup. (6) Bicolor varieties, with white or whitish perianth and self-yellow, red-stained, or red cups. Division IV. Leedsii — Distinguishing character : Peri- anth white, and cup or crown white, cream, or citron, embracing all sizes as found in the Incomparabilis and Barrii classes. Division V. triandrus Hybrids. — All varieties obviously containing N. triandrus blood, such as Queen of Spain, Countess Grey, Eleanor Berkeley, Moonstone, and Agnes Harvey. Division VI. Cyclamineus Hybrids. Division VII. Jonquilla Hybrids. — ^All varieties of N. Jonquilla parentage, such as Buttercup, Odorus, &c. Division VIII. Tazetta and Tazetta Hybrids. — To in- clude A^. Tridymus,Poetaz varieties, the Dutch varieties of Poly- anthus Narcissus, N. biflorus, N. Muzart, and N. intermedius. Division IX. Poeticus varieties. Division X. Double varieties. Division XL Various. — To include N. Bulbocodium, N. cyclamineus, N. triandrus, N. Juncifolius, N. gracilis, N. jonquilla, N. Tazetta (sp,), N, viridiflorus, &c. E 66 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING THE FIRST R.H.S. DAFFODIL CLASSI- FICATION The first classified list of Daffodil names was issued in 1908, but this was withdrawn, I append one or two notes upon it, as in my opinion it is exactly what is wanted for show purposes. Both at Birmingham and at Brecon, where it has been in force two years, it has worked remarkably well. In drawing up this classification the Committee were desirous of putting forward such a list as would meet the requirements of Show Committees in preparing their schedules. They decided that for this purpose it would be best to ignore botanical distinction and parentage, and to rely on the general similarity of the flowers as the main factor in their new classes. They also felt that as a necessary part of the scheme every known variety must be pigeon-holed. The seven new divisions were as follows : — I. Long Trumpets. II. Short Trumpets. III. Large Cups. IV. Small Cups. V. Flat Cups. VI. Doubles. VII. Bunch-flowered. As the list was prepared "full speed ahead," it was found impossible to go into the further question of sub- division, but this was intended to be taken in hand the following year and amendments made where necessary. Had this subdivision formed part of the original issue, or even if the Poeticus section had been separated out as a distinct division, much of the opposition which the scheme created would never have arisen. CHAPTER XI VARIETIES ILLUSTRATED IN PRESENT VOLUME The flowers which are illustrated in this book have been selected as being good examples of the modern Daffodil or Narcissus. I had hoped to have included one of Mr, Crosiield's beautiful white trumpet varieties, and also the lovely Bernar- dino, but unfortunately the photographs failed, and when I became aware of the fact it was too late in the season to repeat them. This accounts for the rather similar varieties which are shown on Plates IV. and VIII. Plate I. Elegance is very like Frank Miles, with some- what shorter segments. I include it because it seems a pity that this graceful type of perianth is not more appreciated. I quite agree with the remarks Mr, Engleheart made at Birmingham this year, that we must be careful in our zeal for round, overlapping perianths that we do not discard equally beautiful flowers of a different build. There is surely room for all, and these looser blooms are superb for cutting. Gloria Mundi is an old variety, but still one of our best large red-cupped Daffodils. Plate II. In Plate II. two of the very best of the new race of Poetaz Narcissi are illustrated. These are destined to take the place of the old type of Polyanthus 67 68 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Narcissus, both as pot plants and in the garden. For this latter purpose I consider them among the most effective of all Daffodils. Orient is a tall, fine plant, with a beautiful red-edged cup and a wavy, Almira-like perianth. It is splendid for the garden and pots. Jaune a Merveille is a yellow Poetaz, and just as good as Orient for both purposes. Both varieties have a delightful, spicy perfume, rather than the heavy scent of the old Polyanthus. Plate III. These are examples of two types of Narcissus poeticus. Horace is a comparatively old variety, but a very popular one. Tom Hood is a superb example of the " red-edged '' type. It is not at present in commerce. The illustration gives some idea of its quiet beauty. Plate IV. Circlet is one of the best-formed flowers that we have. The large, flat, yellow eye has a delightful edging of red. Firebrand is a small bloom, but it has one of the reddest little cups of any Daffodil. Plate V. These are examples of the beautiful race of drooping flowers that come from crossing N. triandrus with some of the varieties of Leedsii. They have usually two or three flowers on a stem, and if they are not as a rule very long-lived in the garden, they can be raised from seed so easily that it does not make the difference it otherwise would. Plate VI. The two large trumpet Daffodils, Lord Roberts (yellow) and Judge Bird (bicolor), are both good show flowers. The former, with its bold, massive trumpet and broad, overlapping perianth, is generally to be seen in the best exhibition stands of twelve yellow Magni-coronati flowers, and it has received awards from the Royal Horti- cultural Society and from the Midland, Cornwall, and Devon Daffodil Societies. VARIETIES ILLUSTRATED 69 Plate VII. Christalla is an excellent example of a giant Leedsii. This type is eminently a modern one, White Queen being the first and best known variety. They have all pure white, or very pale perianths. The flowers are large. The plants are vigorous, and most pleasing in the garden and for cutting. Homespun is a perfect show flower. It will be a long time before it is surpassed by another of the same type. Plate VIII. Charles is a fine, striking flower, with a large, red-edged cup and a white, overlapping perianth. The picture does not do it full justice. Cossack is a good type of a show flower with an all-red cup. Its round, overlapping perianth and its beautiful, deep-red eye are just what judges like to see at the shows. I take this opportunity of gratefully acknowledging my indebtedness for flowers to Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth, Bart., to Mr. E. M. Crosfield, to Messrs. Barr & Sons, to Messrs. Cartwright & Goodwin, to Mr. W. A. Watts, to Messrs. R. Sydenham, Ltd., and to Mr, A. M. Wilson. I also desire to thank very heartily all those who have been kind enough to furnish me with material for the letterpress, namely. Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth, Bart., Mr. Watts, Mr. C. L. Adams, Mr. P. R. Barr, Mr. J. W. Barr, Mr, E. M, Crosfield, Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin, and Miss Currey. CHAPTER XII LISTS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES In putting these lists forward, I must say by way of intro- duction that in very many cases a flower is good for more purposes than one. This is indicated by letters placed before the name, which signify that it is also suitable for that purpose to which the letters refer — thus Lucifer is described under the head of "Garden," but it has the letters before it which signify that it is also good in pots and for the show table. A perplexing problem has been what to include and what to leave out. It would take a book of no mean size to enumerate and describe all the varieties. The Royal Horticultural Society issues a list in which every known variety is tabulated and classified, so it is possible by consulting it to get a sort of rough idea of what any special variety is like although there are no descriptions. The lists, then, in this book do not pretend to be in any way exhaustive. All that they claim to do is to indicate what are some of the best flowers for particular purposes. As a rule they are " in commerce." Only in a very few cases are they novelties which up to the present remain in private hands. With regard to the descriptions, exigencies of space FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 71 necessarily curtail them — all the same, I hope they will be such that to some extent they will clothe the bare name and enable the reader to picture the flower in his mind's eye. Before I deal with the actual lists of flowers suitable for various purposes, I will place on record the varieties that I would stage in an open competition for " The best twelve daffodil blooms," supposing I had an unlimited purse and a free choice of all the varieties in the world. Probably no two people would ever select the same varieties, as individual taste must necessarily be an all- important factor in the choice. In my own case, I know that red cups and eyes have not the same relative value that they have for other experts, so, naturally, they do not appear in the proportion some would expect them to do ; all the same, I think the list would take some beating : — Bernardino (see p. 80). Challenger (see p. 80). Countess of Stamford (see p. 81). Conqueror, an ideal bicolor Magni (see p. 81). Empire (see p. 81). Golden Jubilee, shown at Haarlem 1910. A perfect giant yellow Self Medio. Hypatia (see p. 82). Masterpiece (see p. 83). Princess Juliana, shown at Haarlem 1910. A deep yellow Self Magni. An ideal King Alfred. Seville (see p. 84). Tennyson (see p. 85). White Star (see p. 85). 72 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING I have consulted the various catalogues in which these varieties are listed, and, having allowed an adequate amount for Golden Jubilee and Princess Juliana, I find that an exhibitor who wished to buy one bulb of each of the above twelve kinds to exhibit in 191 1 would have to invest a sum of at least ;^2oo. Those unacquainted with the prices of the choicest varieties might think I have purposely picked out all the most expensive ones, but I have by no means done so. It would be an easy matter to substitute others and raise the cost ever so many pounds. But I must not frighten beginners. There are any number of good fish left in the sea — grand varieties of sterling merit — fit to win anywhere except against a list such as that which I have given. VARIETIES FOR GARDEN BEDS OR BORDERS {A) The selection does not include many of the older varieties, although some of them are still good. It aims at intro- ducing some of the cheaper of the newer kinds, and, in cases of exceptional merit, a few more expensive ones. The name of the raiser or introducer is given in brackets. Astra (Van der Schoot), a soft-yellow trumpet — prac- tically a self ; not a tall grower ; early. Its charm is its freedom of flowering, and its colour, which approaches that of the Nelsonii type. * B. Alert (Pearson), a very early trumpet variety, in shape like the famous "Tenby," of which it is a seedling; very vigorous grower. Perianth paler than trumpet. * B., suitable also for showing. DAFFODILS FOR GARDENS 73 Albatross (Engleheart), a fine Incomparabilis. Perianth white ; cup yellow, edged orange-red. Rather late. B. Argent (Engleheart), a semi-double flower, with long, stiff, creamy-white petals rising from a pale yellow centre. A wonderful plant because of its lasting properties. *fC.B. Autocrat (Leeds), a beautiful, small-cupped Incomparabilis of excellent form. A clear yellow self. Baroness Heath (Backhouse), an old variety with a small flower, having a yellow perianth and red cup. It has beautiful, drooping, silvery foliage, and is excellent for beds in partial shade. tB. Barrii Conspicuus (Backhouse), yellow perianth, cup edged with orange-red ; one of the best of all Incompara- bilis, and the most popular Narcissus in commerce. B. Blackwell (Backhouse), an early Incomparabilis variety. Cup, orange-red ; perianth, yellow, stiff, and of good substance. The first of the red-cupped Daffodils. Brigadier (Engleheart), a large bicolor Incomparabilis ; very robust and free. Rather pointed perianth. B. Cardinal (Engleheart), a large cup of lovely orange- scarlet shade, with a well-formed, cream-white perianth. Very bright. B. Cassandra (Engleheart), one of the first of Engle- heart's fine Poeticus varieties, and one of the best. Small eye with grand, pure-white, overlapping perianth segments. B. Castile (Engleheart), a tall Incomparabilis. Cup, rich orange to red apricot ; fine primrose-coloured perianth. Lasts well out-of-doors. Constellation (Smith), one of the very best garden plants, * C, good for pots. t B., suitable also for skewing: 74 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING as it keeps good so long ; a tall, fine-cupped variety, with a white perianth and a yellow and orange cup. Dorothy Wemyss (Backhouse), a large flower of the Barrii type ; tall grower. Useful on account of its late flowering. *B. Duke of Bedford (Barr), a large and early bicolor trumpet. Refined in shape, and early. Striking in a clump. B. Duchess of Westminster (Backhouse), a starry Leedsii; the long, canary-coloured cup opens a pale shade of orange ; very effective. B., -fD. Elegance (Engleheart), a starry, soft-yellow Incomparabilis. Very beautiful. JC. Elvira (Van der Schoot), a well-shaped Poetaz. Three to five flowers on a stem. Yellow cup ; white peri- anth ; late. B.C. Empress (Backhouse), the popular bicolor Magni- coronati. B.C. Emperor (Backhouse), the popular yellow Magni- coronati. Old, but still one of the best. Glory of Leiden (De Graaff), a splendid, large Magni, trumpet deep yellow, bold and striking. The perianth being streaky, it is not loved by florists. With the average grower this variety is always singled out as one of his best. C. Golden Bell (Engleheart), a most floriferous yellow Magni, with a widely expanded brim to its trumpet. Golden Orb (Hogg & Robinson), a very late, star-shaped flower with a large cup. Perianth yellow, cup, shaded orange ; rather short. C. Jaune a Merveille (Van der Schoot), the best all- * B., suitable also for showing. f D., good for cutting, t C, good for pots. PLATE VI Lord Roberts. Judge Bird. DAFFODILS FOR GARDENS -jj yellow Poetaz. When it opens first the cup has a narrow line of red round its brim. *B. /. B. M. Camm (Backhouse). A dwarf bicolor Magni, trumpet, pale straw colour. Starry, stiff perianth, A most beautiful flower, especially if grown in partial shade. B. Lady Margaret Boscawen (Engleheart), a giant bi- color Incomparabilis, so large in the cup that a beginner might easily mistake it for a Magni. Very robust, and very striking in clumps. Leonie (Van der Schoot), an Incomparabilis with a wide cup of yellow, with a perianth much paler ; very free. fC. Lucia (Van der Schoot), a pretty, yellow Poetaz. B.C. Lucifer (Lawrenson), a very bright and lasting variety. The cup does not burn as the majority do. Perianth, white and starry. Lasts well ; a great acquisition. B.C. Madame de Graaff (Dt Graaff). The popular white Magni-coronati variety. The flower opens with a primrose- yellow trumpet, but it becomes creamy-white with age. C. Madame Plemp (De Graaff), a rough-looking, giant, bicolor Magni ; very free and vigorous. Mary M. de Graaff (Backhouse), a beautiful, stiff little Leedsii, with a yellow cup, in cool seasons entirely suffused with orange. It has delightful, drooping foliage, B. Mrs. H. J. Veitch (Van Waveren), large, golden trumpet, with a paler perianth. Very handsome and refined. B.C. Orient (Engleheart), a tall-growing and effective Poetaz. The yellow cup is margined with red, which lasts a considerable time. One of the best and most effective in gardens. Outpost (Engleheart), a grand early Trumpet after the * B., suitable also for showing. t C, good for pots. 78 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING style of Emperor. Robust and free. Valuable, as it is so early. P. R. Barr (Backhouse), a smaller and later Emperor of a beautiful soft shade of yellow. Queen Bess (Leeds), a very early and very pretty Incom- parabilis ; the yellow expanded cup is most effective. *B.f C. Sir Watkin, a giant among the Incomparabilis ; cup yellow, very large ; perianth white. An early variety. Stella superba (Dutch seedling), a large, starry flower; cup yellow, perianth white. B.C. Sunrise (Mrs. R. O. Backhouse), a new and beautiful Barrii. Perianth white, with a, yellow flame ; cup much expanded, of a warm orange with red edge ; lasts well. Sunset (Van der Schoot), a beautiful yellow Poetaz, with a deep, orange-coloured cup. Torch (Engleheart), a tall plant with a loosely built, yellow, and spidery perianth ; cup large ; very effective. Triumph (Van der Schoot), the largest-flowered and tallest-growing of the Poetaz set. Pure-white perianth and yellow cup. I have included many of this section, as they are so effective and decorative. B.C. Weardale Perfection (Backhouse), one of the largest and most chaste flowers among the Magni-coronati varieties. Cream perianth and primrose trumpet. Excellent constitu- tion ; lasts well. B. White Lady (Engleheart), one of the best garden Daffodils, with a pure white perianth, and small, crinkled yellow cup ; very free. * Suitable also for showing. f Good for pots. VARIETIES FOR SHOW TABLE 79 B. Whitewell, an ideal garden plant, having a shallow, much-expanded yellow cup, and broad, overlapping perianth segments of creamy-white ; a tall grower. William B. Hartland (Hartland), a striking, early bicolor Trumpet of good form. "The earliest bicolor of giant proportions." VARIETIES FOR THE SHOW TABLE (5) Any one who wishes to add to the names given here should consult the reports of those Societies which give lists of all the flowers exhibited. The Societies which pub- lish these are the Midland, the Kent Surrey and Sussex, and Lincolnshire. Acme (Engleheart), a beautifully shaped Poeticus with a flat, all-red eye. Alice Knights (Barr), the earliest white trumpet variety. Very floriferous. The creamy-white trumpet has a prettily frilled, open mouth. Amazon (Smith), a large Leedsii ; might be called a glorified Mrs. Langtry. Apricot Phoenix (De Graaff), a large and double Incom- parabilis of an apricot-buff tone, distinct from all others. Beacon (Engleheart), a striking Burbidgei with a cream- coloured perianth and orange-red cup. Bedouin (J. C. Williams), a remarkably fine variety after the type of Crown Prince, but with a redder cup and very much larger. *A. Bernardino (Worsley), a grand flower in every way ; tall grower ; pure-white perianth, with a large cup suffused * A., suitable for garden beds and borders. 8o PRESENT-DAY GARDENING with a soft shade of orange-red. One of the most beautiful of all Daffodils. Blood Orange (Engleheart). This has rather long, lemon- yellow petals, with a bright, orange-red eye. Showy. Branston (Melville), a white-perianthed Barrii conspicuus. Buttercup (Engleheart), a rich, buttercup-yellow self, very distinct because it is a Trumpet and yet has so much of the Jonquil look about it. Challenger (Crosfield), a fine, massive Incomparabilis flower. The ivory-white perianth measures 4 inches across, and the flat, red-edged cup ij inches. It is an ideal exhibition flower. Circlet (Engleheart), one of the best flat-eyed flowers in the Engleheartii section ; the perianth is broad, white, and the segments overlap. Eye large, yellow, with orange-red edge. Conqueror (P. D. Williams), a glorious, pale bicolor Trumpet. The perianth segments are large, rounded, and overlapping. It has an excellent habit, and holds itself well. Cossack (Barr), a beautiful, small-cupped variety, with a broad, overlapping perianth, and a dark orange-red coloured cup. Countess of Stamford (Crosfield), one of the whitest of the white Trumpets, and possessing wonderful substance. It is my favourite flower of this type. *C. Cresset (Engleheart), a medium-sized, circular flower, with a brilliant, red cup. Cygnet (Haydon), a pale bicolor-trumpet. It is a flower that always seems to catch my eye on stands. Diana (Engleheart), a distinct giant Leedsii, with widely expanded cup, and reflexed perianth. * C, good for forcing. VARIETIES FOR SHOW TABLE 8i Dorothy Kingstnill (Engleheart), a bicolor Magni, distin- guished by its long, pale, and refined-looking trumpet. Duke of Leinster (Engleheart). This flower has a large, much-expanded red cup. The perianth is creamy yellow, and reflexes a little. It is a sort of brilliantly coloured Queen Sophia. Empire (Crosfield), perhaps the finest giant Leedsii yet raised, possessing extraordinary substance. Eoster (Engleheart). I always quote this variety as an ideal florist's flower, it is so regularly made. The sharp- edged cup is yellow, and the perianth white. The flower is not large. * A. Evangeline (Engleheart), a finely shaped Leedsii with a yellow cup. I once described it as a white Home- spun, but I should have said a bicolor Homespun. Eyebright (Engleheart). This variety is very near the Poeticus type ; the red-rimmed eye has always a bright appearance. Firebrand (Engleheart), a small Burbidgei, one of the deepest reds in existence. Furnace (Engleheart), a medium-sized Incomparabilis flower. The red of the cup is particularly deep in colour, and the perianth is pale yellow. One of the richest-coloured red cups. Giraffe (Engleheart), a particularly fine yellow Incom- parabilis. A. Gloria Mundi (Backhouse). This flower has a bright orange-red cup and yellow perianth, A. Great Warley (Engleheart), a giant bicolor Incom- parabilis, with a perianth 5 inches across ; extra fine. * A., suitable also for garden beds atid borders. F 82 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Hamlet (Haydon), a lovely, pale-coloured, but refined Emperor. Harold Finn (Engleheart), a superb Engleheartii or flat- eyed flower. Perianth pure white ; cup or eye, scarlet, making a fine contrast. Heroine (Engleheart), a giant Albatross ; very fine. Homespun (Engleheart). This is probably the most per- fectly formed Incomparabilis flower. Yellow self. The winner of endless " single bloom " prizes. A great flower. Hon. Mrs. J. Francklin (Pearson), a magnificent giant Leedsii, with somewhat pointed segments. *A. Horace (Engleheart), afine, red-eyed Poeticus variety. Hypatia (Dawson), large, canary-yellow coloured flat eye, perianth pure white ; first-class flower. Incognita (Engleheart). This flower has a large and flat, apricot-red eye, with long, almond-shaped perianth seg- ments. A telling bit of colour. Kestrel (P. D. Williams), one of the largest and finest red-eyed Poeticus flowers. King Alfred (Kendall), an immense flower, with rich, golden-yellow trumpet. Kingsley (Engleheart). This is one of the most beautiful Poets we have ; a sort of smooth Almira. Lord Kitchener (Mrs. Backhouse), a superb giant Leedsii, with broad, flat, right-angled perianth segments and a long, pale-citron cup, elegantly recurved at brim ; first class. Lord Roberts (Barr), a smooth and elegant yellow Magni of large size and great substance ; very refined. * A., suitable for beds and borders. VARIETIES FOR SHOW TABLE 83 Masterpiece (Engleheart), a most effective, red-eyed Bur- bidgei with a pure-white perianth ; first class. Mervyn (Cartwright), a fine, well-formed yellow Trum- pet ; very early. *A. Monarch (Barr), a grand yellow Trumpet of per- fect form ; very refined. Moonbeam (Mrs. R. O. Backhouse). This flower has a flat, circular, white perianth and short white cup. " A per- fect flower" (Bourne). Michael (Williams), a rich yellow Magni of uniform colour ; the perianth is broad and overlapping, and the trumpet wide and not very long. A flower of the future. Mrs. Ernest Crosfield (Crosfield), a very fine white Trumpet flower. As its raiser says, " very waxy " ; quite one of the best. Mrs. R. Sydenham (De Graafif), a delicately formed white Magni. Its trumpet is on the long side. Mrs. W, 0. Wolseley (P. D. Williams), one of the whitest and most refined varieties of giant Leedsiis ; a beautiful and early flower. Noble (Engleheart), a giant Incomparabilis, a sort of pale yellow Great Warley ; very distinct. *A. Orangeman (Engleheart), a giant Incomparabilis, distinguished by its large and striking all-orange cup. Pearl of Kent (Haydon), an exceptionally fine white Magni. Its feature is its massive, bold trumpet. Penguin (Engleheart), a stiff, late-flowering Leedsii, of excellent form ; the perianth holds itself well at right angles to the cup. * A., suitable for beds and borders. 84 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING Peter Barr (Barr), a pure-white Magni, with campanulate perianth ; a famous variety in many ways. Pilgrim (Dawson), an exquisite, large Leedsii, with long, wide perianth segments, which open of a tint like ivory, but with age pass to pure white. It has a beautiful lemon cup of medium size. Pixie (Crosfield), a thick-looking flower, with widely expanded eye edged with red. The perianth is cream- coloured. Primrose Phcenix (Dutch), a fine, primrose-tinted, double flower. Prima Donna (Engleheart), a distinct flower. The large yellow eye is edged with red ; the perianth segments are stiff and overlapping ; pale yellow. Red and Gold (Copeland), a loose, red and yellow, double flower. Rising Sun (Welchman), a glorified Tenby Daffodil of the most perfect form ; deep yellow. Seville (Engleheart), a large, shallow-cupped flower. Its red centre is very telling ; the reflexing perianth is white. Snow King (Crosfield), a fine, symmetrical Poeticus variety. A giant Ornatus. Very smooth. Stonechat (Engleheart), a small flower with pointed yellow petals, and deep orange-coloured cup. Tennyson (P. D. Williams), one of the finest red- edged Poeticus varieties ; a flower of the highest quality. Vulcano (Copeland), the reddest of all double flowers. White Knight (De Graaff), a very refined and finished white Magni ; pure white. DAFFODILS FOR POT CULTURE 85 *A. White Queen (Engleheart), the first giant Leedsii, and still one of the best flowers. White Star (J. C. Williams), a star-like Incomparabilis ; segments, solid, white, long, incurving ; cup, soft yellow, li inches across, the whole flower being 4^ inches in dia- meter. A beautiful novelty. Will Scarlet (Engleheart), the first of the very large, red-cupped flowers ; still worth growing for its colour. Perianth poor. DAFFODILS SUITABLE FOR POT CULTURE {Q One or two varieties which have been described in previous lists are named here a second time, but in their case no description is given. Alsace (Van der Schoot), the best Poetaz for early work. It has a white perianth and yellow cup. ♦A.fB. Aspasia (Van der Schoot), a fine Poetaz for late work; the flowers are thrown well above the foliage. Dorothy Wemyss, a tall-growing Barrii. Perianth, white, cup, pale-yellow edged with red. Eyebright, very good (see list B). *A. Glory of Leiden. First-class for pots. Its great trumpet is very telling. Golden Spur, a tall and fine-flowering yellow Trumpet ; can be had in flower very early, and immediately after Henry Irving. j-B. Henry Irving,^ the earliest yellow Trumpet, stifl- • A., suitable for beds ^^Mir*|^ORK ST ^~^ "" t ■&., suitable for showing. ^p AGR'C- mmm^ OF msm^'^- AND OOFNEUUNlVE«S.T. JTHACA, 86 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING shaped like Tenby. Can easily be had in bloom on New Year's Day. fB. Jaune a Merveille, an extra good, yellow Poetaz (see list A). Lucifer, wonderful laster (see list A), *A.B. Madame de Graaff, the best white Trumpet for pots ; exceedingly graceful. Mrs. Langtry (Backhouse), a pretty Leedsii flower, and a popvilar variety. Mont Cenis, the best Polyanthus variety ; very free flowering. Perianth, white ; cup, yellow. Rather dwarf. Orestes (Hartland). This flower has a creamy-white perianth, and the segments overlap. The cup is orange- scarlet. The plant is a dwarf grower, and very effective in small pots. *A.B. Orient (Engleheart), an effective Poetaz, because of the red round its cup. Seagull (Engleheart), an exceptionally good doer in pots. A fine, tall grower, having a white perianth and yellow cup, sometimes edged with pale orange. Floriferous. fB. Southern Star (Engleheart) . Perianth large ; cup, white, spreading, with a wide red edge ; very effective. Victoria (J. E. Veen), a bicolor admirably suited for pots. The flower has a good, stiff, well-shaped perianth, and fine yellow trumpet. W. P. Milner (Leeds), a dwarf, sulphur-yellow Magni ; in pots it comes almost white. Very fine. The flowers are thrown well above the leaves. One of the prettiest and daintiest Daffodils. * A., suitable for beds and borders, I B., suitable for showing. DAFFODILS FOR CUTTING 87 DAFFODILS FOR CUTTING (2)) Mr. R. F. Felton, in the chapter on Daffodils in his charming book on British Floral Art, gives some excellent hints on arrangement, and concludes with a list of the varieties he considers the most decorative. As he says, although there are large numbers of "old standard kinds that leave little to be desired from a decorative standpoint," "there are many newer ones which will in time eclipse these old favourites." The following varieties are a few to be specially noted : — *A. Canipernelle Jonquils (rugulosus), rich yellow, small flower, two or three on a stem. Cassandra (see list A). Cervantes (Hartland), a good form of Princeps. Eyebright (see list B). A. Frank Miles (Leeds), an Incomparabilis ; one of the most graceful Daffodils for vases, it has such beautiful lines. Fire Dome (Engleheart), a magnificent red cup ; the perianth reflexes ; good profile. Polestar (Engleheart), an exquisite starry flower, having long, white, almond-shaped segments and a yellow cup. Queen of the West (Polman-Mooy), a pure, canary-yellow coloured Magni ; a tall grower, very decorative and elegant although of large size. One of the very best.f A. Waterwitch (Engleheart), a pure-white, drooping Leedsii. * A., suitable for beds and borders. t Introdtued by Mr. Walter T. Ware. 88 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING VARIETIES FOR CULTIVATION IN GRASS (£) All Daffodils will succeed in grass, although they do not increase very quickly. Some of the slender, old white Trumpets can only be grown in such a place. In my short list I have put down a few that are a little out of the common. Citron (Engleheart), a flower with a loose, creamy- white segment and a rather long, citron-yellow coloured cup. Horsfieldii (Horsfield), a fine bicolor Magni. In a mass it looks much whiter than Empress. It seems to do especially well in grass. Johnstonii "Queen of Spain" (nat. hybrid), a delightful, drooping, canary-yellow coloured flower ; not being tall it is only suitable where the grass keeps short. Lobularis (nat. hybrid) . Trumpet, yellow ; perianth, sulphur-coloured. The flowers are thrown well above the foliage. Very early, and dwarf. Princeps. Good where it seeds, as it will increase in irregular patches by this means. Triandrus albus ("Angel's tears"), a most delightful variety with its little, white, drooping, Fuchsia-like flowers. It seeds freely, and if left alone will spread itself all about. The grass must be short-growing, as the plant is only 8 or 9 inches high. SMALL KINDS FOR ROCK WORK (F) Cydamineus, very dwarf, with deep-yellow flowers. Trumpet, long and straight ; perianth, reflexed like a Cyclamen. Height, 6 to 8 inches. PLATE VH Christalla. Homespun. DAFFODILS FOR ROCK WORK 91 Bulbocodium citrinum (Hoop Petticoat Daffodil). This flower has a very large cup or trumpet in proportion to the small perianth ; citron-yellow ; delights in damp, peaty soil. About 8 inches in height. Gracilis, a late-flowering slender species, of a pale yellow colour. Resembles a Jonquil in its general habit and effect. About I foot high ; flowering in May. Johnstonii " Queen of Spain " (found by Mr. Peter Barr in Spain), a delicate, clear-yellow self, in shape somewhat like a Fuchsia. Height, 12 inches. Juncifolius, a rich yellow flower, reminding one of a Buttercup. Height, 3 to 4 inches. A real gem. Maclaei, the smallest bicolor variety, growing only 4 to 6 inches high. Cup clear cut, and of goblet shape. Minor, a charming little yellow Trumpet Daffodil, only 7 or 8 inches high. Early. Minimus, the Tom Thumb of Daffodils, only 3 to 4 inches high. Likes peaty soil. Nanus, a rich yellow. Trumpet variety, about 8 or 9 inches high, "Its small flowers thickly bespangle the ground like golden stars." Triandrus albus ("Angel's tears "), white, 8 or 9 inches high. Triandrus Calathinus, purer white and larger flower than the last. W. P. Milner. In the open, sulphur-yellow; a Magni which never exceeds a foot in height. CHAPTER XIII DAFFODILS EXHIBITED ON MARCH 8 AND 9, 1910 Now that the better kinds of Daffodils are becoming con- siderably lower in price, their use in pots is gradually extending. With the twofold object of familiarising the public with some of the kinds that especially lend them- selves to this treatment, and also of finding out which those kinds are, the Narcissus Committee in 1908 suggested to the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society the advisability of having an exhibition of forced flowers before the outside flowers were "in," The first show of this nature was held in 1909, and it was such a success that it was repeated as a two days' show in 1910, Strictly speaking, flowers in early March can hardly be called forced in a market-grower's sense of the word. It would be better to talk of such as "opened under glass " ; still, it is convenient to have a short word to use, and, if there is a general understanding of its meaning in this particular connection, no one is deceived, and its use may be pardoned. Of course, forcing in a stricter sense means flowering the bulbs in January and early February ; one of the experiments of the future must be to find out good varieties for this purpose. Apropos of this, I ought to mention a photograph of a very fine giant Leedsii 93 DAFFODILS IN MARCH 93 of the White Queen type that Mr. Walter Ware showed me in February last. It was taken in his nursery on January 26th, and was in every way what we Daffodil people call a "topper." I was immensely impressed with it, as it seemed to suggest such possibilities. The thought of having a fine new set of the newer Daffodils to take the place of the older varieties of Leedsii and Incom- parabilis makes one full of anticipation. It will, however, be a long time before they can become " practical politics " in forcing, as all such varieties are scarce and expensive. The question of cost, however, is not nearly such a serious one for late forcing in March. Under good and careful cultivation, the bulbs will have been grown in conditions not nearly so unlike their natural ones ; and, if care is taken to gradually ripen them off after flowering, the bulbs will not be spoilt, but will recover if they are planted out the following year. The practical utility of growing under glass is obvious. Thereby the season is lengthened considerably, and we are enabled to enjoy an " early special " of a few of our particular favourites without too severely taxing their strength. From this point of view, the Forced Bulb Show in March is of immense service to Daffodil growers. They have only to go there and see the great wealth of bloom displayed. This year no fewer than five of the leading firms put up large groups, and the whole formed an object-lesson of the suitability or otherwise of the different kinds. The firms who exhibited were Messrs. Barr and Sons ; Messrs. Cartwright & Goodwin ; Messrs. Sydenham, Ltd. ; Messrs. J. R. Pearson & Sons of Lowdham ; and Messrs. R. H. Bath, Ltd., of Wisbech. I have to thank the representatives of these firms for very kindly supplying me 94 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING with correct lists of their exhibits. These returns I have tabulated, and I insert them here as constituting a valuable historical record of " who was who " amongst Daffodils amenable to pot culture under glass in 1910. In cases where a variety was staged by more than one firm, I have put the total number of times it was shown in brackets. Admiral MakaroiT. Albatross (2). Albicans. Alert. Alice Knights. Alsace (Poetaz) (2). Amazon. Argent (3). Ariadne (2). Armorel. Artemis. Aspasia (Poetaz). Autocrat (H). Bandicoot. Beauty (2). Blackwell (2). Blood Orange. Branston. Brigadier. Bulbocodium Con- spicuus. Bullfinch. C. J. Backhouse (2). Cassandra. Castile. Chaucer. Citron. Circlet. Commodore. Constance (Leedsii). Coronatus. Crown Prince (2). Cyclamineus. Cygnet. Dorothy Yorke. Dubloon. Duchess of Normandy. Duchess of West- minster. Duke of Bedford. Earl Grey. Emperor (3). Empress (2). Evangeline (2). Eyebright. Fairy. Fairy Queen. Felicity. Firebrand. Fireflame. Flora Wilson. Frank Miles. Gipsy. Glitter. Gloria Mundi. Glory of Leiden (2). Gold Finch. Golden Phcenix. Golden Spur (3). Hamlet. Henry Irving (3). Homer. Homespun. Hon. Mrs. Barton. Horsfieldii (2). Incognita. Janet Image. Jaune h. Merveille. Johnstonii Queen of Spain (3). Katherine Spurrell. King Alfred (2). Klondyke. Laureate. Leiden Jar. Leonie. Lord Roberts. Lucifer (3). Lulworth (2). Madame de Graaff (2). Madame Plemp. Madge Matthew. Maurice Vilmorin. Maximus. DAFFODILS IN MARCH 95 Mikado. Minimus. Minnie Hume. Mont Cenis. Mrs. Buchanan. Northern Light. Orange Phoenix. Orangeman. Ornatus (3). Outpost. Persian Orange. Peter Barr. P. R. Barr. Plenipo. Primrose Phoenix. Princeps. Princess Mary. Queen of Holland. Queen Sophia. Rev. C. Digby. Robert Browning. Royal Star. Rugulosus (Campa- nelle Jonquil) (2). Sabrina. Salamander. Salmonetta. Sappho. Scarletta (2). Scarlet Eye. Seagull (3). Sequin. Sidney. Sir Watkin (2). Soleil d'or. Southern Star (2). Stella Superba. Sulphur Phoenix. Sunset (Poetaz). Tomtit. Topaiz. Van Dyck. Vanilla. Victoria (4). Waterwitch (2). Weardale Perfection. j White Lady (2). I W. P, Milner (2). CHAPTER XIV DAFFODIL SHOWS The first Daffodil show was held in the Botanical Gardens, Edgbaston, Birmingham, on April 26 and 27, 1893, under the auspices of the Birmingham Botanical and Horticultural Society. Mr. (afterwards Professor) William Hillhouse was secretary to the Society at that time. It was his own idea to hold such an exhibition, and so we may look upon him as the " Father " of Daffodil Shows. His interest in the flower lasted throughout the remainder of his life, for it was only when failing health made rest an imperative necessity that he resigned his office as Chairman of the Committee of the famous Midland Society. The schedule of the show consisted of fifteen classes, and was entirely confined to Daffodils. Mr. F. W. Burbidge officiated as sole judge. The season happened to be an early one, and there were few exhibitors. The only one remaining now is Mr. J. D. Pearson (of Messrs. J. R. Pearson & Sons), of Lowdham, near Nottingham. "With the next year, 1894, came Barr, Engleheart, Jacob, De Graaff, Sydenham, and many others " (Letter from Prof. Hillhouse, Mid. Daff. Soc. Report for 1908). It is interesting, in passing, to contrast this small begin- ning with the present position of the Midland Society, which had no fewer than fifty-four classes in its schedule 96 LIST OF DAFFODIL SHOWS 97 for 1910, when it ofFered about ;^i5o in prizes, and em- ployed twenty-three judges to get through the work of making the awards. List of Daffodil Shows.— In putting forward the follow- ing list of shows actually held in 19 lo, it must be remem- bered that almost all the large provincial Societies who hold spring shows have a considerable number of classes for Daffodils. These are always features of the shows held at Edinburgh, Dublin, Shrewsbury, Darlington, Norwich, Exeter, Falmouth, Ipswich, and Bournemouth. Date of First Show. Name of Society. Place where Show is held. 1907 . Breconshire Brecon Byfleet Byfleet I910 . Cobham Cobham 1897 Cornwall Truro 1904 Devon (Movable) 1904 Glamorganshire (Movable) I910 Herefordshire Hereford 1906 Huntingdonshire Huntingdon 1906 Kent, Surrey, and Sussex Tunbridge Wells 1909 Kingsbridge Kingsbridge I910 Knighton Knighton 1902 Lincolnshire Spilsby 1899 Midland Birmingham 188S Narcissus Committee R.H.S. London 1905 North Devon Bideford 1907 North Lonsdale Ulverston 1 90s Presteign Presteign I90I St. Keveme St. Keverne In addition, shows have been held at Edrom (Scotland), Ludlow, Newham and Wisbech. PREPARING FOR SHOW At planting time attention must be given to the season the different varieties will flower, and an earlier position must G 98 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING be chosen for late bloomers and a later one for early ones, so as to bring their flowering periods as near as possible together. Arrangements should be made so as to allow the red-cupped and trumpet flowers to be covered with some slight protection when they are in flower, in case this proves to be necessary. It is best to cut most varieties when they are just open- ing, and keep them in a cool, dark place of about fifty-five degrees Fahr. Trumpet varieties grow very little after being cut, and it is best to shade them on the plant ; this, too, is the best treatment for certain other kinds like Alba- tross. The Leedsii and Poeticus varieties, as a rule, grow a great deal after being cut. Never allow the flowers to catch cold. By this I mean that if the weather is warm, many varieties resent being taken straight away into a cold temperature. The sudden change seems to chill them, and they never recover. All these things, however, are, and must be, matters of practice and personal observation, and I only mention them to put readers on their guard. The atmosphere where cut flowers are kept should be moist. Many blooms, if cut young, can be kept in a cool, dark place for fourteen days, and still be in a good condition for showing. The best, however, are those cut about six or seven days before they are wanted. If buds are opening too slowly, by putting them into well-aired water and placing them in a very warm, damp atmosphere, such as a stove-house, they will open con- siderably sooner than in the open, and be in fair condition. Here again practice will show which varieties can stand this treatment best, and which are harmed by it. TAKING FLOWERS TO SHOW 99 TAKING THE FLOWERS TO THE SHOW Choose the best flowers, and always take one or two extra blooms in case of mishaps. Select boxes which provide sufficient room, and, if possible, pin each flower down with tape and drawing pins. The boxes should be made of faii-ly strong wood ; at any rate, the bottom must be so constructed as to allow the pins being stuck into it. The lids must fit tight so as to exclude air. Any convenient size will do, so long as all the boxes are the same size for convenience of tying them together. A suitable size would be 2 ft. 6 in. x i ft. 6 in. x 6 in., all internal measurements. Never use damp cotton-wool in packing ; in well-made boxes paper even is not required. FINAL PREPARATIONS ^ Be present at the exhibition hall in good time, and put the blooms in water at once, so as to stiffen them up. If this can be done the night before the show is held, -so much the better, especially if they have had a long journey. Take sufficient leaves and moss with you, and always obtain your vases immediately on arrival. The arrangement of colours and types (of flowers) is very important. Drooping kinds should be placed high up. The colours must be well assorted, and the flowers with brightly coloured cups distributed among the yellows and whites. Put specially good flowers at the ends and in the centres of all groups. Arrange the flowers with long stems ; they present a much better appearance, and have more importance. loo PRESENT-DAY GARDENING HINTS TO SHOW COMMITTEES In drawing up their schedules, I strongly advise the different societies to fix in every case the number of flowers to be shown in a vase, and also to publish the standard which they have adopted as a reference. I would urge the adoption of the standard of the Royal Horticultural Society, which I hope will be published before long. At present all we have (see Chapter X.) is the classification. When the work is completed by the pigeon-holing of every known flower, it will supply a long-felt want, and will be very much appreciated by judges. If possible, supply all the vases wanted, and have all the staging tiered (three or four tiers are best) and neatly covered with some suitable material. Allot every exhibitor a space, and, if possible, mark off these spaces and the beginning and ending of each class by coloured and white tape. Allow the judges sufficient time to judge the flowers without being hurried. Have all the flowers shown in any one class so arranged that they are in the same light as far as pos- sible. Few probably appreciate the importance of this to competitors. Encourage the exhibition of varieties that have not been in commerce many years ; also the exhibition of seedlings raised by the exhibitor, by having classes for, say, six blooms, one of each kind, or for three blooms, or even a single bloom. CHAPTER XV CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS August. — The Daffodil year may be said to begin in August, because it is in this month that planting should be commenced. All expensive and new varieties, especially the Poeticus section, should be planted as soon as possible. If the season happens to be very dry, they are benefited by one or two good waterings to start root growth. Bulbs of such varieties as Paper White Narcissus, and the earliest yellow trumpet Daffodils like Henry Irving, Obvallaris, and Telemonius plenus, should be potted. September. — Bulbs will be arriving from the dealers. See that they are unpacked at once and put in a dry and airy place until they are wanted for planting. Continue planting in borders. Finish potting all that are wanted for forcing. It is better to do this now, and let the bulbs get well rooted, than to pot them up in successive batches. Varieties wanted for hybridising must not be forgotten. Scuffle the beds which were planted last month. October. — ^All bulbs should be planted before the end of the month, if the best results are to be got from them. Make every effort to have the borders ready. Of course Daffodils may be planted in November, and even in early December, but they will not be so strong or so large as if they were put in the ground earlier. As soon as the grass 102 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING has become softened by rain, planting in grass should be done. Use Barr's planter. Towards the end of the month, examine the very early potted bulbs and put them in cold frames. Keep the surface of all Daffodil beds clean, and hoe them frequently. November. — Continue to stir the surface of the beds. I am convinced that the regular scuffling or hoeing is a great help to the growth of a collection, and so I call frequent attention to it. The scuffle or hoe should be run between the rows about once a month. Towards the end of the month, bulbs in pots for forcing should^ be examined. The earliest batch may be put in a cool greenhouse, and after ten days or a fortnight removed to a warmer atmosphere. December. — Pay attention to bulbs in pots. Precau- tions must be taken to guard against frost getting to them in the cold frames. From now onward, successional batches may be introduced into the houses. Never bring bulbs directly from the cold, to a warm greenhouse ; always try to arrange for an intermediate step. Seed-pans must be looked at. January. — If the weather is very severe, place a covering of some kind on the beds. I always use heather. It is not removed until the hardest frosts are past and there is about an inch or two of green leaves above the ground. Always stake and tie up the leaves and flowers of pot plants in good time. February. — If screening is necessary, put it up now, I use coir screening, which I nail or tie to wooden posts previously sunk in the ground. As soon as the flowers are past, plants in pots may be turned out and put in by the heels in a sheltered place, to allow the foliage to die off PLATE VIII Charles. Cossack. CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS 105 gradually. These bulbs are no use for forcing a second time, but are useful for planting in grass or in beds. March. — Continue to scuffle, only leave off when the use of the hoe will spoil the blooms. Make up your mind, if you have not already done so, as to what crosses you propose to make, and prepare everything in readiness. If a show is in prospect, it is well to consider what varieties will need retarding and covering. April. — This is the flowering season par excellence. Hybridise as opportunity permits, and note the crosses and mark and tie up the blooms pollinated. Make notes at shows and in other gardens of kinds that you would like to procure. This is a very desirable thing to do, as it is impossible to describe all the varieties that are now on the market. If you are going to show, prepare in good time, and cut the necessary flowers as early as possible. May. — Tie up the leaves in borders, but don't cut them off. If the collection is a large one, have boxes ready in which to dry the bulbs. I use wooden trays with uprights at each corner ; by means of these the trays are piled one on the other, and there is a space of 3 to 4 inches left between each for the air to circulate. June. — Examine the seed-pods every day ; when they have assumed a yellow look they may be gathered. Begin to lift the bulbs as soon as the leaves turn yellow and lie flat on the ground. Keep the seed-pans free from weeds, and stand them in a cool place out-of-doors. Order new varieties. Most firms who specialise in expensive varieties usually issue an early list either in May or June. Double dig the ground (incorporating some bone meal with the soil) which is to be occupied by collections. io6 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING July. — Finish taking up bulbs. Frequently look at those in the drying-b6xes. When these are quite dry, clean and separate them into planting sizes and offsets. Transplant, without drying off, seedlings from boxes or pans to beds. The bulbs will be very small. They may be put from i to 2 inches apart in rows separated 9 inches from each other. These distances depend on the amount of room available. Order what bulbs are required as soon as possible. Seeds may usually be sown early in the month, either in boxes or in a prepared border. CHAPTER XVI ADDENDUM This concluding chapter is a sort of omnium gatherum of some of my personal ideas and opinions about Daffodil affairs, past, present, and future. A NATIONAL DAFFODIL SOCIETY The question of establishing such a body has undoubt- edly been in the air in the early months of the present year (1910), both among specialists and also among the great flower-loving public who have been taught to look upon the Daffodil as a beautiful ornament for either the garden or the house (see Journal of Hort, for May 19, 191 o). In this article it is pointed out that none of the present societies, nor yet the Daffodil Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, does for the flower what the National Rose and National Sweet Pea Societies do for Roses and Sweet Peas. I have been a sort of sleeping partner with Mr. Herbert Smith in the secretarial department of the Midland Society ever since its formation, and I know the feeling of the Committee of Management is that it would be out of place to take upon themselves anything like parliamentary functions with regard to the classification of the varied forms of Daffodils, the definition of the types to io8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING be aimed at in hybridising as suitable for the show table and the garden, or the drawing up of hsts and selections for the guidance of purchasers. I have been a member of the R.H.S. Committee for the past four or five years, and I know a Httle of the working of this body. Its weakness seems to be that its functions are Hmited a great deal too much to the judicial side of Daffodil life. Constituted as it is at present, it may be that this is all that can practically be expected from it. If so, there is room for a society which would take the Daffodil under its wing. I would further say that, if the main functions of the R.H.S. Committee were con- fined to judging groups and plants, then, should a National Society be formed, a modus vivendi might be found which would make the one a helpmate of the other. THE FLORIST'S DAFFODIL The Daffodil is the most modern of " Florist's " flowers. Much as I love the Sweet Pea, I can never look upon it as a florist's flower, although it might be claimed as such by its votaries. Those curious, crumpled-up-looking bits of colour, which do duty for flowers, are so very opposite in their character to all the old kinds that one used to consider made up the charmed circle, that I feel it to be impossible to put the modern Sweet Pea in the same category as the old Auricula, or Tulip, or Carnation. Not so, however, with the Daffodil or Narcissus. The hybridist, like Mr. Engleheart, and the cultivator, like Mr. Crosfield, have shown us its possibilities, and all we want is a florist like the late George Glenny to give us some indication of THE FLORIST'S DAFFODIL 109 the directions in which still greater improvement may be sought. The question naturally occurs, "What is a florist's flower ? " I fear I cannot give any good definition, but, as the Bishop said of the Archdeacon, "An archdeacon is a man who performs archidiaconal functions," I must answer that a florist's flower is one that has the proper florist qualities and qualifications. It is quite open to any one to claim the title for any flower which has been developed under the care of florists, as, for instance, the Sweet Pea or Carnation. In my own mind I define a florist's flower as one that depends on itself for its beauty, quite independent of any external surroundings. It is one that, suggesting in itself the various stages of its own develop- ment, lends itself to continued improvement by means of the creation of new varieties from seed and their further amelioration by cultivation. It is one that of necessity lends itself to a certain stiffness and symmetry of outline, that in architecture would be called classical and in dress severe, but which, after all, is one of which the eye seldom tires. Obvallaris, Homespun, Golden Jubilee, Eoster, and Tenny- son are examples of what I mean. They are flowers of the greatest beauty and refinement, depending for their charms on their symmetry and beautiful proportions. As one who in springtime is frequently called upon to judge at shows, I feel more and more the necessity of having a sort of general consensus of opinion as to what is good and what is not. It is one of the peculiar fascinations of the Daffodil that it is a flower of many forms ; trumpet, cup, and eye are joined in numbers of shapes and sizes with a perianth which varies equally with the corona. Hence, I hope that there will no PRESENT-DAY GARDENING never be the strict limitation which we find in the TuHp, and over which many a hard battle of words has been fought in the days of old. All that I feel I ought to say now, while the types are sub judice, is that, for one thing we must try for evenness and smoothness of surface. As a case in point I would refer to my judgment in the single-bloom Poeticus class this present year at Birmingham. The flower that won was not the largest, but it had the smoothest surface. Another point is that we ought not to tolerate "quartering" (to use a Tulip term) — that is, there should be no daylight visible between the bases of the perianth segments, but they should overlap in a greater or lesser degree. And lastly, I dislike very much a flower which "buckles" — that is, one whose segments, like those of Madame Plemp, invariably curve outwards upon themselves. At the same time, I think that a certain incurving is extremely graceful, and, in some flowers, like Frank Miles, it is this which gives them much of their delightful appearance. Another point to strive for is substance. DEFINITIONS WANTED Arising from what has been said about diversity of form, it follows that we want technical terms to describe the different coronas and perianths. For myself, I would like to see the coronas divided into trumpets, cups, and eyes. The term " eye " seems much better than talking of a " flat cup," and it is equally applicable to Poeticus and Engleheartii varieties. Then, again, in the Magni-coronati group there are terms wanted to describe the narrow PRICES III trumpet of Mrs. R. Sydenham and the wide one of Glory of Leiden, We have, at present, to fall back upon the somewhat cumbrous way of using a little sentence to say what we mean. The same with the perianth ; it may be at right angles to the trumpet, as in Obvallaris, or claw-shaped, as in Peter Barr, or lop-eared, as where segments are not strong enough to support their own weight. In the other divisions technical language would similarly be of value. PRICES* I have often discussed the question of prices with raisers and dealers. There seems to be a general consensus of opinion that with the influx of new seedlings every year the very high figures of the past cannot long be maintained, except in the case of some few varieties which will stand out by themselves as super-excellent. The secret Of high prices is simply the desire of hybridisers to possess the very best kinds for breeding purposes. Some may buy at a high figure solely to have them to exhibit, but judging from a few years' observation at different shows, they are a very small minority. WHAT IS WANTED (AIMS) I suppose I ought to say that a red Trumpet of the colour of a scarlet Geranium is wanted. Well, I am not going to say that. I don't think I should like it if I had it. Certain colours seem inseparably linked to certain flowers ; a purple Violet, a blue Larkspur, and a white or red Rose are all right, but a red Violet, or a white Larkspur, or a blue Rose do not * I wrote this before I saw the Preface. — ^J. J. 112 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING appeal to many of us in the same way. What we want are red and red-edged cups, and red and red-edged eyesthat will not burn. No one can say that a faded cup or a burnt-up edge looks well in the garden. This is why such varieties never seem to me to be suitable garden plants. We want attention to be paid to getting varieties that throw their flowers well above their foliage. The Poetaz Aspasia is an excellent example of the type I mean. In fact, many of the Poetaz have this characteristic. Another desideration is getting a race of Daffodils that can be had in good condition under glass early in the year. If we had a National Society, it would be part of its work to look after such things. Again, there seems to be a distinct opening for small and low-growing varieties suitable for small pots. WHITE TRIANDRUS HYBRIDS These must have a special notice. Those who have never seen them should take the first opportunity they get. I refer more especially to those small, pure-white, drooping flowers, which have a special beauty all their own. I often think how I would like to possess a hundred or two of them. They would make such beautiful table decorations in small, low, silver bowls. They are very easily raised. Simply cross either Minnie Hume or Mrs. Langtry with pollen of Triandrus albus, and then select the best seedlings. If annual crossings are made, once the first wait of three or four years is over (see chapters on hybridising and seedling- raising) there will be a yearly crop of delightful. Fuchsia-like blooms, which will more than repay the trouble and delay. INDEX Acknowledgments, 69 Addendum, 107 Aims of the future, III Amaryllidacese, 8 Backhouse, W., 2, 8 Baker, J. G., 11, 16 Barr, Peter, 2, II, 14 Basal Rot, 53 Beds and borders, varieties for, 72 Book of the Daffodil, II, 51 Botanical features, 16 Bourne, Rev. S. E., 11, 51 Bowls for Daffodils, 27 Breconshire Daffodil Society, 38 Bulb, functions of, 18 Bulb-planter, 22 Burbidge, F. W., 11, 14, 96 Calendar of Operations, loi Cartwright and Goodwin, 1 1 Change of soil, 31 Classification, 56 Baker's, 57 Barr's, 57 Haworth's, 56 R.H.S., 1908, 66 R.H.S., 1910, 64 Coir Screening, 23 Conference, 1884, 14 1890, II Corona, 17 Cross-breeding, raising new varieties by, 38 Cross-fertilisation, results of, 45 facts to be noted in, 47 tools for, 49 Crosfield, E. M., 4, 20, 108 Cultivation, 20 in bowls, 27 in grass, 21 in pots, 24 in special beds, 23 Currey, Miss F. W., 20, 29 Daffodil Catalogue, the first, 14 Daffodil in books, 5 in botany, I in gardens, 2 in poetry, i Society, a proposed, 107 Darlington, H. R., 53, 54 Definitions wanted, no Diseases, 50 Basal Rot, 53 Rust, 54 Yellow Stripe, 29, 54 Dividing bulbs, 29, 34 Early planting, value of, 28 Enemies and pests, 50 Daffodil fly, 51 Slugs, S3 Swift Moth Caterpillar, 53 Engleheart, Rev. G. H., 3, 31, 39, 108 Excessive propagation, 34 First Daffodil Catalogue, 14 Flora, or a CotnpleU FloriUge, 7 H 114 INDEX Florists' Bibliography, 6 Florists' Daffodil, lo8 Forcing, 24 Forcing varieties as exhibited at a show held in March 1910, 94 Gardeners' Dictionary (Miller's), 8 Gerard's Herbal, 6, 13 Grass, Daffodils for cultivating in, 88 Hartland, W. B., II, 14 Haworth, A. H., 56 Hepialus lupulinus, 53 Herbert, Dean, 2, 8, 14 Hillhouse, Professor, 96 History of the Daffodil, 13 Hybridisation of Daffodils, 43 how to do it, 44 Illustrations (coloured) — Charles, 104 Christalla, 88 Circlet, 40 Cossack, 104 Elegance, Frontispiece Firebrand, 40 Gloria Mundi, Frontispiece Homespun, 88 Horace, 24 Jaune Ji Merveille, 8 Judge Bird, 76 Lord Roberts, 76 Orient, 8 Tom Hood, 24 Triandrus hybrids, 60 Introduction, i /owrKa/ of R.H.S. (July 1890), 11 "King," the Daffodil, 2 Kirby, A. M., 11 La Mouche du Narcisse (Bos), 52 Leaves, functions of, 18 Leeds, Edward, 8 Lifting, 29 Lists of varieties, 70 an ideal twelve, 71 for beds and borders, 72 for cutting, 87 for grass, 88 for pots, 85 for rockwork, 88 for show-table, 79 of shows, 97 of varieties exhibited on March 8 and 9, 1910, 94 Magni-coronati, distinguishing fea- tures of the, 16, 58 Medio-coronati, the, 17, 61 Merodon Equestris, 51 Midland Daffodil Society, 96 Miller, Philip, 7, 40 My Latest Hobby, 1 1 Narcissus, Ye, 14. Narcissus fly, the, 5 1 National Daffodil Society, 107 Parkinson, John, 6 Paradisus of, 6 Parvi-coronati, distinguishing features of, 17, 62 Pearson, J, Duncan, 96 Peat-moss, litter for Daffodils in bowls, 27 Planting, early, of bulbs, 28 Poison in Daffodils, 55 Pollen-parents, list of potent, 49 Pots, varieties for cultivation in, 85 Prices of bulbs, 15, ill (and Pre- face) Propagation, 34 by offsets, 34 by seed, 35 INDEX "5 Rea, John, 7 Results of cross-fertilisation, 45 special examples of, 46 Rockwork, Daffodils suitable for, 88 Rust in Daffodils, 53 Seeders, list of good, 48 list of shy, 49 Seedlings, IS, 36 Shows, 96 cutting flowers for, 98 Hints to Committees, 100 list of varieties at a show in 19 10, 97 preparing for, 97 taking flowers to, 99 Slugs, S3 Soil, change of, 3 1 Sowing seeds, 36 Storing of bulbs, 29 Sweet's Flower Garden, 56 Swift Moth Caterpillar, 52 Tools necessary in cross-breeding, 49 Triandrus hybrids, white, 112 White Triandrus hybrids, 112 Wilks, Rev. W. (Preface), il Willmott, Miss, 20 Wilson, A. (Dunedin), 1 1 Wilson's (A. M.) 1910 list, I J Ye Narcissus, 14 Yellow Stripe, 9, 54 ^i THE END y 9/12 Printed Ijy Ballantvne, Hanson &• Co. Edinburgh <5h London ■;